.\\ V ^p ^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 ^^ u& ■tt Ui 12.2 I.I u lyiijiiUi^ < ^ 6" : ». ^'S Fhotografto Sciences Corporalion 4« nu^f bo fNmod ot torgotobo onnfonr Monraoo sn ono boginninfi to tho uppor loft hond oornor« loft to riglit ond top to bottoMi roouirodt mm foNowtag Loo oortoOt pionoiMo, toblooux« mb<» pouvont otro fllnMo o doo toux do roduotlon difftronto* Loroquo to dooumont oot trop grond pour fttro roprockilt on un ooui oHoiid. II oot fNnid i portir do I'angto t up dr tou r gouolM, do gouolio k drolto, ot do hout on boo, on pronont to nombro dtmogoo ndoooooiro. Loo d iog ro mmoo tulvonti Muotfont to nothodo* 1 2 3 1 3 fii>ihiih««l tivH H l.nnri' AtlanticMeanoir,yt>rt; tivH H l.nnri' ' <■' Str«ri,l,imii, tH«il u'.--y tfiMtt i ft l fci:6'; >. < rtf*MJg^.^faa<«U«i ai Jtea I a ^'•, i i MEMOIB, -"A DESCRIPTIVE AND EXPLANATOBY, /- or THB NORTHERN ATLANTIC OCEAN; AND COMPRI8INO INSTRUCTIONS, GENERAL AND PARTICULAR, FOR THE NAVIGATION OF THAT SEi^; BY JOHN PURDY. ELEVENTH EDITION ; MATERIALLY IMPROVED, BY ALEXANDER G. FINDLAY, Frihw of the Rojfol Otofraphieal Soeitty, r"\ LONDON: PRINTED BY AND FOR RICHARD HOLMES LAURIE, 63, FLEET STREET, E.O. 1861. . 'V J. , ill.:)' 1 ;r::;f-r'? J . a!^t?"; -^t>:-Ne:!:, -^'^ i O'br the glad wutera of the dark blue Sea, Our thoughts as boundless, and our souls as free, < j .•■ ' >>• t The numerous wrecks that formerly occnrred on the rocks and islands of Soilly, from ignorance of the tides and currents, are notorious. Add ' > these the wrecks, still more numerous, which have occurred on' the coasts of Spain, Portugal, and Africa ; upon which side of the ocean the currents have uniforndy produced more mischief than on the opposite coasts. Among these were the British frigate Apollo, and about forty ships under her convoy, on the coasts of Portugal, as described hereafter, p. 275 ; of the vessel with M. de Hrisson, in 1787, on the coast upon which, in 1810, the American ship Charles vtaa wrecked, lis noticed and described in a succeeding page ; of the Montezuma, of the Eliza and Olymphe, both in 1827 •' of the brig Commerce ; of the Oswego; and of the Medusa; and about thirty other vessels lost on the African coast, of which, according to the respectable authority of Mr. Jackson, about seventeen were English, and five American ; twenty-six others wrecked on the Bar of Senegal, at different times, according to M. Golbcry. Many ships, also, have been lost by the currents, &c., on AUograuisa, Graciosa, imd Santa Olarii, of the Canaries ; the Hartwe/f, East Indiiiman, on the roefe of Bonavista, the C'l/iithin, Geortjr, Cora, &c., on the South shore of Barbadocs ; and, by similar causes, several others, on the Ilotia8,1^c,, off the Biasiliun coast. Many are recorded as being wrecked PKEFACE TQ THE EIGHTH EDITION. ij»-» AFETT over the LOR and Ship- Ocoan} and to sn ; and, stimu- ringau Eighth , will show how toi'tant informa- ', of Liverpool, have we been 1DER Edward k.* ir attention has ito their nature been especially LJOR ReNNELI.; . has, moreover, stigations have iew of all the w treated on, least, ono on 1, consult the volume, and ch must neces- ibitable effects bf Scilly, from pks, still more upon which |n the opposite lips under her |el with M. de I was wrecked, r and Olymphe, about thirty authority of Ithori) wrecked ha, and 8anta |ouaviNta, the tuses, several ling wrecked In prc'onting the former Edition, we had to return our thanks for thoir valuable communications, to John Mackellar, Esq., since Uear-Admiral of the White ; and to the Moroantilc Captains, James Wallace Monteath, of Liverpool ; John Wihon and ThomoB Hamlin, of Greenock ; Wm. J. Capes, then of the iadf/ Mackteorth : John Steele Park, of the Oarthaitim Park,- and Thos. WiUon, of the Henry WeUetley. To several of thrae gentlemen, to the late Captain Midgleu, and to CiMptain Oeorge Cheveley, we have t^ain been obliged for important ana valuable additioBB, now incorporated in the work. ' To Lieutenant Charles Hare, K.N., we are indebted for the route described by him for shi[)s bound to New Brunswick, &c. ,jn the 8Ucoeedin|y pages 437, 4.39. This route is so evidentlv andsreatly advantageousfU UVUry UUliibiauder ana merchant in that trade, as to aemand particular notice. To the MeUdship of Mr. Wm, Heron, of Greenock ^since deceased), we have been indebted for several matters of importance { among which will be foiwd some explanation of the omrent'S about the southern coast of Newfoundland ; currents which, while unknown, have probably been tlie caiise of so many wrecks on that coast. The important communications of an accomplished officer. Lieutenant Oreevelink, late of the Dutch Royal Navy, which have added so considerably to a due knowledge of the West Indian Seas, have been incorporated and acknowledged in the " Colom- bian Navigator ;" and so much of a general nature, as the subject required, has been re-introduced in the present volume. In the Tables of Positions and Directions, many additions have been made from the Observations and Surveys of the officers appointed to the surveying service by their Lordships of the Admiralty, as well as by other scientific men. The new docu- ments more especially include the Memoir and Surveys of the Baron Houssin, of the French Navy ; with those of Captains Wm. F. Owen, Jlichard Owen, Edward Belcher, Thos. Boteler, Wm. Mudge, A. T.E. Vidal, John Washington, and H. W. Bayfield, of the British Navy ; Colonel Sabine, of the Royal Artillery ; with many articles irom the " Nautical Magazine, &c., as noticed and acknowledged hereafter. The Directors of the " Deposito Hydrografico" of Madrid have done us the honour of translating for, and inserting into, the " Den'otero de las Antillas" all that we had heretofore collected on the subject of Currents, and have superadded thereto some additional and valuable remarks, which we have incorporated in this work. Numerous facts, of late date, illustrating the general sot of currents, will be found described under their proper heads. ' The summary descriptions of all the Liohthouseh on the different coasts, will, we trust, be considci-ed as an important and useful uddition ; inasmuch as they will, if attended to, prevent those accidents which ha\ e so frequently happened from mis- taking one light for another, examples of which will be noticed hereafter. Our ardent wishes are, as our strenuous efforts have been, devoted to the improve- ment of Hydrography ; and we therefore, again, earnestly solicit communications for futui-e correction, &c. Such communications are pai-ticularly acceptable, because ouiGTNAL and authentic ; and, therefore, more to be depended upon than the im- perfect statements ccmmonly given in newspapers and other publications, as we have ah'eady had occasion to notice. The great importance of the latter has, however, been admitted ; and we may here repeat the observation, that " A scries«of such notices, proverly authenticated, announcing the discovery and position of dangers, new deteiminations of the sitnations of places, &c., with the particulars of the observations, and names of the observers, would be very beneficial to the public service. Had such a measure been adopted years ago, many fine ships which, and about Newfoundland, including the Tweed, the Comm, the Harpooner, the Drake, and the Spence ; and to these may be added the Lndt/ Sherbrooke, from Londonderry to the River 8t. liawroiico, lost near Port-au-Bawquf, East of Cape Race, Newfoundland, in July, 1831, when 300 persons perished ! m PREFACE TO THE EIGHTH EDinON. bnve lailon who, have been lost, might still have been in exitttenoe." We have urged thie ai'gument repeatedly, and have hod the pleasure of seeing that, to a certain denee, tiie suggestion has been adopted. The Volume lately published, entitled " A Sailing Direotory for the Ethiopic or Southern Atlantic Ocean," may be considered as a continuation of the present work. It describes, in a similar manner, the Islands and Dangers of that Ocean, the Coast of Africa from Sherboro' Island to the Cape of Good Hope and Algoa Bay, and the Coasts of Brasil, &c., from the River Marafion Southward, to Cape Horn, including the Falklaqd Inlands, South Shetland, &o. John Pubdt. f The First Edition of thiH work appeared, without prefkoe or apology, in the year I -ipi2» a second was soon required, and, during the kfetime of its origmal composer, tigid editions were called fur, to the laat of which the foregoing preface was affixed. , Before submitting a Ninth to public notice, the present Editor felt some diffidence in attempting to improve that wmch had employed ho much of the time and talent of the late Mr. Purdy ; but, as Hydrogi-aphy, and the many branches of science there- with connected, are continually recuiving fr^tih accessions, from the seal and activity of the numerous observers that are at present labouring in the wide field of research, some revision was rendered alwolutely necessary. In the performance of this task, many redundances were to be removed, many important points to be dilated on. It is hoped that nu source of authentic informa- tion has b^n overlooked, and that the work, as it is, offers a correct picture of the state of our Hydrographical knowledge at the present tinie. Our thanks are due to many kind contributors, whose names and observations are recorded throughout the work, and we hero tender them our acknowledgments. Alex. O. Finolat. .V^f: fv @;*: 1 1 CONTENTS. 8EGTI0H X GENERAL REMARKS, WITH TABLES OP DETERMINED POSITIONS, AND THE AUTHORITIES, ETC., INCLUDING THE VARIATION OP THE COMPASS, ETC. PAGE Genjsral Remarks 1 Limits of the Atlantic, 1 ; Remarks on the Charts, 2, 3 ; Leng^ tit Coast Line, 0, 6. 1. England and Waales — ^Positions of Places, 7 j notes , 10 2. Islands a,nd Coasts of Scotland— Positions, 11 ; notes 13 3. Coasts of Ireland, &c. — ^Positions of Places, 14 ; notes 18 4. Norway and Sweden— Positions of Places, 17 ; notes 20 5. Denmark, Germany, and Holland — Positions of Places, 21 ; notes 24 6. Coasts of France, &c.— Positions of Places, 25 ; notes 27 7. Spain and Portugal — Positions of Places, .28 ; notes '. 31 8. Coasts of Africa — Positions of Places, 33 ; notes 38 9. The Azores or Western Islands — Positions 40 10. The Madeira and Canary Islands — Positions 42 11. The Cape Verde Islands — ^Positions ...; 44 12. The Feeroe Islands, Iceland, Greenland, Labrador, and Newfoundland — Positions 46 13. Gulf and River of St. Lawrence, with Breton Island — Positions 53 14. NoTu Scotia, &c., Southern Coasts — Positions, 61 ; New Brunswick 62 15. The United States— Positions, 64 ; notes 69 16. The Bermuda Islands — ^Positions 73 17. The Bahama and Passage Islands — Positions 74 18. Cuba, Jamiuca, &c. — ^Positions 79 19. St. Domingo or Hayti, Porto Rico, and the Virgin Islands — Positions 84 20. The Caribbee and Leeward Islands — Positions 89 21. The Coasts of Guyana, Colombia, &c., to the Mexican Sea, inclusive — Positions.... 92 sEcirioir n. DESCRIPTION AND LIST OF LIGHTHOUSES. Lighthouses and theie Illumination 97 Lighthouses and Light-vessels, 97 ; Lamps, 97 ; Catoptric or Reflector System, 98; latermittiAg light, 99; Dioptric or Lens System, 99; Dia-catoptrio Prisms, 101 ; Fixed and Flashing Light, 101 ; Holophotal System, 102 ; Orders of Lens Lights. 102 ; Range and Character pf Lights, 103 ; Description of Tables, 104. TUl CONTENTS. List of Lighthouses England, Thames Mouth, 105 ; South Coast, 106, 7, 8 ; West Coast, 109 ; Woha, 110 ; England, North- West Coast, 111, 112 ; East Coast, 113—115. Scotland, East Coast, 116, 7 ; Orkney and Shetland Isies, 118, 9 ; Hehrides and West Coast, 119—121. Ireland, South Coast, 122; East Coast, 123; North and West Coa.st, 124,125. Xorway and White Sea, 126 — 129 ; Sweden, West Coast, 130 ; Denmark, West Coast, 130 ; Hanover, Netherlands, 131—133 ; Belgium, 134. France, North Coast, 135—137 ; Channel Islands, 188 ; West Coast, 140—143. Spain, North Coast, 144, 145 ; Portugal, 145; Spain, South Coast, 146- Britiah America ; Newfoundland, 147 ; Gulf of St. Lawrence, 147, 148 ; New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, &c., 149, 150. United States, Maine, 153; New Humpshiro and Massachusetts, 155; Rhode Island and Connecticut, 158, 159 ; New York, &c., 160 ; New Jersey and Virginia, 161 ; Maryland, 162 ; North Carolina, 164 ; South Carolina, 165; Georgia and Florida, 167 ; Gulf of Mexico, 168—170. West Indies, Bahamas and Cuba, 171 ; Jamaica, &c., 172; Guayana, 173; Tierra Firme, 174. Atlantic Isles, 175; Africa, Went Coaat, ili'i. PAGE . 105 SECTIOH m. GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE WINDS, TIDES, AND CURRENTS, AND ON THE DIFFERENT PASSAGES OVER THE NORTH ATLANTIC OCEAN. L— Of the Winds 176 General Remarks, 176; Halley and Hadloy's Theories, 177, 8; Wind System, 179, 180; Force of Winds, 180, 1; Table of Force and Velocity, 182 ; Land and Sea Breezes, &c., 1H3. The Trade Wind, 184; N.E. Tmdos, 184; North Limit, 185; South Limit, Table, 186; Prevalence, 187, 8 ; Summary, 189. Winds on the Atlantic Isles, 189; at Jamaica, 191 ; West Indies, in general, 190; Bahama Islands, 192; Greater Antillas, 191 ; the Bay- amos, near Cuba, 102. Guyana, Cumana, &c., 193 ; Gulf of Mexico, 196 ; the Norths, 194 ; Florida Kays, 196, 7. Equatorial Winds and Calms 198 Limits Defined, 198; Table of Extent, 199; the Cloud-ring and Rains, 200. Winds on the Aftican Coast, 200; Winds and Seasons by Captain Midgley, 201 ; Coast of Guinea, 202 ; Windward Coast, 203 ; the Harmattan, SiC., 20-3— 206. Winds and Calms on the Tropics, 206 ; at the Bermudas, 207. MEMOIR, ETC. ='^«s*' %* Throughout this work the given longitude is the longitude {from GREENWICH. In THE SAILING DIRECTIONS THE BEARINGS AND COURSES ARE THOSE BT COMPASS, UNLESS WHERE OTHERWISE EXPRESSED; BUT THOSE GIVEN THUS [ TF.jS. W.'] SIGNIFY THE TRUE ; AND THE GIVEN DIRECTION OF WIND, TIDE, AND CURRENT, IS GENERALLY TO BE CONSIDERED AS THE TRUE. ..■>^-»iif.if-' SECTION I. Vif^itA ,rit» I REMARKS ON THE CHART, WITH TABL'^^ts OF DETERMINED POSI- TIONS, AND THE AUTHORITIES, ETC., WITH THE VARIATION OF THE COMPASS. ,- -, The North Atlantic Ocean is the smaHest of all the great diviuona of the I Ocean, but it has ever been of far greater importance to man than all others Icolleotively. It owes this great maritime superiority to the great proportionate [length of its varied coast line, which perhaps nearly equals all other navigable seas, land to the vast area drained by the rivers &lling into it, which give ready access land intercommimication to seats of dense and inland population. It is from these I causes that the inhabitants of its maritime countries, have, in all ages, applied them- selves to navigation ; and it is more than probable that the facilities afforded by it for commerce and travel, that the nations who inhabit the vicinities of those vast inland seas and bays which distinguish the Atlantic, have made greater progress in civiliza- tion than in any other part of the globe. The area of the North Atlantic, does not comprise more than about one eleventh I part of the entire ocean. From its having been the great highway for so many agoB, its history, features, and phenomena, are better known than any other, and we are now enabled to give a far more perfect view of it — ^in every aspect — than of I the rest of the world of waters. It may be important in some mercantile questions to define the boundaries of the I various divisions of the Ocean but this has not been authoritively done for the whole I of the world. In 184A, the Royal Geographical Society of London, appointed a committee to define the limits of the various oceans ; and their report defines :-— " The limits of Arctic and Antarctic Oceans, respectively to be the Arctic and Antarctic Circles \ that the limits of the Atlantic os the north and south, be the Arctic and Antarctic Circles t that its western limit be the coast of America, as far south as Cape Horn, and thence prolonged on the meridian of that cape, until it w u 2 mTBODTJCTION. meets the Antaretic Circle ; that its eastern limit be the shores of Europe, and Africa, as fiur south as the Cape of Good Hope, and thmoe prolonged on the meridian of Cape Lagulhas, till that meridian cuts the Antarctic Circle." Our present work deals exdusiTely with the northern portion of the area thus defined, or that part which is separated fix>m the southern by the Equator. The length of the coast Unes which bound the North Atlantic and its chief bays, (except the Mediteiranean,) measured around their principal sinuosities, is not less than 62,000 miles ; if more minutely estimated it would amount to much more. A table is given presentiy, which will shew the numbers which make up this sum, and ' which are relativjely equal. Of these coaste about 7,000 miles, or one ninth, remain unsoireyed ; but they are the Arctic regions, unfrequented by commerce. Of the remainder, two-fifths have been surveyed by the British Government, and three-fifths by foreign powers. The coasts of the Atlantic are now represented with the most minute accuracy in nearly all places of interest to the sailor. The elaborate surveys which have now nearly approached completion, have been in progress during a greater portion of the present century ; and in some cases, as the coasts of Spain, and aame parts of our own shores, at the latter part of the last century. The first portion of this volume consists of a selection of the principal geogra- phical points established in these operations, and appended to them are some notes, which will suiBciently explain their nature. In former editions we were led to dis- cuss the merits of various authorities and the discrepances between them, which were often considerable in amount ; but now these difibrences have been so removed, and snch minute exactness attained, that whatever notes there may be on this topic, must be rather taken as subjects of curiosity, than of practical utility. It is therefore manifestly impossible that the seaman in the ordinaiy pursuit of his calling can hope to improve what has cost so much labour, and such refined ap- pliances. Almost every point in the geographic tables which follow may be taken as a point of departure by which he may correct his reckoning or rate his chronometer i and the explanatory notes appended, will serve to give him confidence, and afford information upon this important section of hydrography. The first chart of the Atiantic upon a large scale, was published in Amsterdam by the predecessors in the still existing and respectable hoiise of Van Kculen, in the middle of the last century. It was issue;), nnder the title of the Spani$h or Weti Indian Sea : it contained some useftil detaib, amidst a thousand errors. The second, entitied a Chart of tht Atlantic Oeean, was engraved at London, on the cir- cular projection, invented by'Mr. Murdoch, but was found to be extremely inaccurate j and ihb eonatniotor added to the Archipelego of Cape Verde, two islands, under the names of 8t Philip and St. John, neither of which existed ) these names being jKunetinMS ffiven by the Portugnese to the Islands Fogo and Brava. Hie next, which was the first of the kind published in this country, was eon- •atruotfld br M. de la Roehette. a nainstakinar and talented hvdntamtnhfir. in 1 779 , and was published by the hovso whence the present work issues, in that year. It was ISTWODUCTION. 3 drawn npon the iNwfo ^ the p1k>«>«t 4t» of M. Fleurien, and teat manj yean wan in large demand ; of which acnne degniu cf j^oof may eriae from ita hating been dnring the period repeatedly copied, and illegally republished. la the ooitne of time many improvements were obtuned, and it was saperseded in 1812» by another of the same scale and size, oonstmoted by Mr. John Furdy, a name well known to maxinen for many yean. Has ehart, in its various editions, did good service to seamen tat a long period, and stUl is deserving of confldenoe, as representing niost of the 'ftatorea re- quisite, with sufficient accuracy, to ensure the salMy of navigation. These charts in their turn, having required many improvements, from the great acquisition of exact knowledge which charaoteiiies the presmt day, it was deemed necessary to supersede them by the new charts before alluded to, which have lately been published by the proprietor of this work, as compiled firmn the now nearly per> feet geographical data. They moreover eadbit, at one view, a summary, in a gnq^iio I form, of all that range of phenomena with which hydrography has of late been en- jriched. But there is one drawback to the great increase of observation. Each department [of hydrography is overloaded for practical every day use, and the seaman would ■ waste much time in endeavouring to elicit some system from the multifiuious authori- Ities he has now before him. A system of mean results has therefore been adopted' |as will be hereafter explained, under the various sections which follow. Hydrography, as at present understood, commenced with Captain CJook, in his celebrated first voyage to the South Seas, in 1768. Previous to this, our coasts rere represented and corrected by the rude draughts and imperfect reckonings of istaking mariners, in the pursuit of their profession ; but the extended practice [>f lunars, and the use of chronometers, soon made great improvements in geographic eprcsentation. Captain Cook, prior to his appointment to the great Exploring Expedi- ^on, was employed in survejring portions of the Gulf of St. Lawrence ; and the work which he published was a series of charts of the south and west coasts of Newfoundland. It is very interesting to know that the great circumnavigators' ear- liest works have outlived all their contemporaries. His charts, published by the pre- SecesBor of the proprietor of this work, are still in demand, as the only fisdthftil epresentations extant. Our present object is not to give a history of the progress of charts, or we might kere present a long catalogne of those worthy observers, who, by patient investiga Ion, and multiplied observation, made the geography of the ocean nearly as good or the mariner's use, as the far more elaborate public surveys which have superseded liem. These last have the -exclusive merit of being connected, and each portion llaced in exact relation to every other portion — a feature which is owing to the mag^ ifloient systeias of triangulation, which are now extended over the the most impor- it portions of the civilised world. The degree of accuracy, and the extent of these kay be understood, when it in xaserted that the whole of the positions hereafter given the coasts of Europe, between Norway and Spain, do not vary tnau the oisoMe jruth, more than a few fset. It is the defect of detached observations that they do not exactly acccord with ^ OnHODUCTiOK. thoOT by dUflteokt indiTiauida. Utraith6diMrigi»d9ii anting finnitliksos^ n o o— it a Ui d tiia diMmniagui formerlj given on Atlantio ffiognfbj. Bat itill thsre is mvditlMtiirMaMfydwhidiisnoweoUpwdintheworlnofthepgredeoes^ modam ■nrrajnn. Towaid the end of hurt century, these were seyanl niunee which dewrve eepeeial mentiaii h^re, b$ their wmrks will bear every odrnpariaon with thoae of their more Ikvored ■ocoeaeon. Among theae waa Mnrdoch Maekeaxie, who surveyed a large portion of the western shores of Scotland) and all the coasts in the nmrth of Ireland. Gneme Spenoe, an admirable surveyor, whose labors have even yet not been entirely superseded, surveyed the southern coasts of England, between 1772 and 1812. The coasts of Spain and Portugal laid down in accordaaee with the valuable Sur- veys of Toflilo, Fnuudni, &o., and in the delineation of the African Coasts, with the islaiids off the same, the positi pariflon of sixteen excellent chronometers, carried back-' ward and forward between Greenwich and Falmouth, that the western longitude of the latter had been given at 4.4 seconds of time, or 1 minute and 6 seconds too Uttle, by the first Trigonometric Surrey. Li consequence, 29 of the best chronometers belonging to the Admiralty were subseiquently committed to the care of the doctor, and a vebsel was ap- pointed wherein he was to sail, backward and forward, between Dover and Falmouth, until the longitude in time, between these stations, and between tiiem and Portsmouth, as an intermediate station, was settled beyond any doubt. The result was, as to all places on the South Coast of England, between the meridians of Greenwich and Falmouth, if 1 second be added to every 4 minutes of longitude, as given by the original Survey, the exact longitude, accorung to the chronometers, will be ob« tained. These differences have since been entirely settled by UM) iti-ojuuuuuiuuu ui mv ui* angloa, now completed. .^.^..- . POSITIONS OF PLACES. ENGLAND AND WALES— CoNTimrBD. LA.T1TUUB. Bornham (or Bridgewater) Lighthouse Usk Lighthouse Bridgewater Spire Avon Lights Bristol Cathedral Flatholm Lighthouse ..... Swansea Castle Mumble's Liehthouse Worm's Head Nash Point, E. Lighthouse RosiUy Barrow Pembrea Steeple Tenby Spire Caldy Island; Lighthouse MiLFORD Steeple Hulberton Church St. Anne's High Lighthouse The Islet Gnunholm Smalls lighthouse St. Davi^ Cathedral .... Ramsey Idand } highest point Bishop and Clerks ; nor- thernmost Cardigan Isle ; highest point Cardigan Steeple Aberystwith ; Lighthouse Aberystwith ; Station Holyhead Lu:hthouse Skerries Light Bardsey Lighthouse South Stack Lighthouse . . The West Mouse Amlwch Station Great Onne's Head ; Signal Abergel6 or Abergali Stee- ple Air Point Lighthouse Leasowe Lighthouse .... Bidstone Lighthouse .... Blackrock Lighthouse .... Liverpool } St. Paul's Church Formby Lighthouse Formby N.W. Mark Bossal Point Luidmark . . Fleetwood New Lighthouse Wyre Lighthouf e Lancaster Steeple Wabey I. Light St. Bees Head ; Lighthouse Whitehaven ; Pier-head Lighthouse Lee Scar Lighthouse . . , . 61 61 30 51 27 61 14 54 61 32 24 7 41 2 6 61 22 30 51 37 13 61 33 59 61 33 56 51 24 13 51 34 36 61 41 18 51 40 20 51 37 52 51 42 43 61 42 56 61 40 66 61 43 56 51 43 14 51 52 56 61 61 43 51 54 10 LOM. W. a ' k 2 60 62 2 59 33 2 59 39 2 42 16 2 35 29 3 7 28 3 55 32 3 68 12 4 18 56 33 3 16 51 16 28 41 51 40 69 39 3 11 10 28 28 40 40 86 14 53 3 4 4 4 4 5 5 5 6 6 6 62 7 54 4 41 26 52 4 59 4 39 17 52 24 48 4 5 24 52 26 49 4 3 19 53 18 50 4 37 76 63 25 15 4 36 25 62 44 58 4 47 55 63 18 23 4 41 54 63 26 4 4 33 11 53 23 4 19 17 53 20 6 3 61 7 53 17 8 3 34 67 63 21 24 3 19 16 63 24 46 3 7 28 53 24 2 3 4 23 53 26 38 3 2 2 63 24 30 53 32 11« 53 32 32 53 55 15 53 55 35 63 67 12 64 3 54 2 4 54 54 30 48 64 33 10 54 51 46 c 6 20 44 5 23 6 AUTHOuiras. 2 69 30 3 3 55 5 2 1 28 66 22 46 48 14 10 33 38 8 3 35 50 3 24 43 The Orakd Tbioonometbio or Obdnancb Subyet of Eng^ land, &o. *.<- 10 POSITIONS OF PLACES. ENGLAND AND WALES— Contimtod. LATrrvDi. lOM. W. AUTHOHtriES. Skinbnmess Lighthouse . . O 1 * 54 02 46 -0 » 3 3 2^ 46 Workiiigtoii Chapel 04 38 28 3 34 11 The Grand Trigonometbic SouthemeM ; Lighihouse 64 02 22 3 30 37 or Ordnance Survey of Eng- CriffiBll t Station in the Sor- land. \ey, 1 ,831 ft. above the sea 64 06 44 3 36 66 Isle of Mam. Point of Ayre Light North Berule ; Station, 54 24 06 4 22 1 t 1304 feet high 04 17 27 4 23 32 \ SneaFell; Stat. 2,400ft. 04 10 00 4 27 36 Calf of Man, Upper Lighthonse 04 3 14 4 49 37 Peel; Lighthouse 04 12 40 4 42 33 ^ NOTES. 1. The Maritime Surveys of our coasts are now so complete (with some partial exceptions,) that little can be desired for the use of the navigator. These works, based diiefly upon the Ordnance Survey, would occupy too much space here to enumerate, but it would seem to be somewhat uiyust if no allusion was made to the predecessors of our present government survevors, who, with very limited means and great personal labour prra^ced such excellent charts, that even in the present day uiey would be most trustworthy ffuides. The names of the two Murdoch Mac- kenzies, Grteme Spence, and Joseph Huddart, deserve all gratitude. 2. On the innae of Plymouth JSreakwater is a landinff-pier, and on the East end of this, which is about eqv ' -distant from either end of me breakwater, is a granite piUar, with a brass plate, on which is engraved its correct latitude and longitude, 60° 19' 69", and 4° 8'^52" W. Here ships of war, by Admiralty Order, rate their chronometers before proceeding to sea. Admiral FitzBoy has remarked in his voyage of the ' Beagle,' that the longitude of this station, by the Ordnance Survey, would be 4*^ 7' 41"-7 ; but, by applying a por- tion of the error detected by Dr. Tiarks, in his clironometric observations between Greenwich and Falmouth, viz. 47"09", or 1' 1"'36, the corrected longitude of the sta- tion will be 4° 8' 52". " Our chronometers made it 0' 40'-2 to the eastward of the corrected longitude, and 0' 19'"'6 to the westward of the original determination by the Ordnance Svarvey "—Captain FitzJtotf's Appendix, p. 320. 3. St. Agnes' Lighthouse, Scillt. — The observations riiade for determining the situation of St. Agnes' Lighthouse, at the commencement of the third voyage of Captain Cook, proved to be incorrect. It appeared from these observations, to be in lati- tude 49° 66', longitude 6° 46'. This error, of more than 25 minutes of longitude, was very injurious ; inasmuch as many Charts were subsequently regulated by the deduction. For, the Lizard Point having been previously determinea by Dr. Bradley, these islands were, in consequence, placed that distance too far from the Land's End. Not- withstanding this great error, however, it does not appear that it was the cause of any serious disaster to shipping. VARIATIONS OF THE COMPASS, 1861. In the latter part of this volume, some observations on the general subject will be found, among which, the secular change, which has now increased to a consider- able amount, smce many of the surveys were made, and which therefore requires attention, the more especially since the introduction of an improved class of instru- ments, and the care demanded in the navigation of iron-ships. We here give the S resent variation, reserving such remarks upon former results, for the section specially evoted to the subject. The variation is now decreasing on the south-east Coast of England at the rate of about 6' 27" per annum ; on the noith-eaet of England about 6' per annum, and on POSITIONS OF PLACES. U the west coast, about 6'-120". The Weaterfy Vanatkm at Oraeitwich is 21" 20'. In 1868 it was 28* 8' j in 180S, 21° 46' ; in December, 1858, 21° 29. In the Thames mouth, at the Nore, 20° 3' { off the North Foreland, 20° 30'. When Orseme Spence made his survey in 1790, it was 22° 50' ; it went on increasinj^ till 1818, and has since decreased. Off Hastings, it is now 21° 0' i at Spithead, m 1813, it was nearly 25°, and at Portsmouth Obsorta- tory it was stated to be 24° 15' ; it is now 21° 45° ; at Poole, Dorsetshire, it is 22° 0' ; at I)artmouth, 22° 40' ; At Plymouth, 23° 0' ; at the Scilly Islands, 24°. At Bristol it is 22° 35'; at Cardiff, 23° 0'; at Milford Haven, 24°;;at Lundy Island, 23° 50' ; at Bardsey Island and Holyhead, 24° 10 \ at Liverpool, about 23° 83' I (in 1838, it was 26°) ; in the fairway of the Irish Sea, 24° 40' ; the Isle of Man, I 24° 50'. On the Eastern Coast, it is at Yarmouth, 20° 50' ; Cromer, 21° 0' ; Lynn Deeps,^ ! 21° 30' ; Hull, 22° 0' ; Hartlepool and Tees Bay, 23° 0' ; the Tyne, 23° 25' ; Berwiok- I on-Tweed, 24° 0'. 2. ISLANDS AND COASTS OP SCOTLAND. EDINBURGH ; the Ob- ' servatory [1] I Inchkeith Liehthouse . . [2] I Isle of May Lighthouse . . East Lomond 1471 ft Fifeness Bell Rock Lighthouse Dundee Law Buddon-ness; High Light Arbroath ; the Abbey .... Red Head IMONTKOSE: Round Tower Spire Girdleness Lignthouse — I Aberdeen ; Marischal .College I Aberdeen lighthouse [Old Aberdeen; Northern blunt Spire [Belhelvie or Orrock; Dove- cote iBuchanness Lighthouse . . IPeterhead) Old MiU .... JRatteiT Head ; Pile IFraserburgh Lighthouse . . IKinnaird Head Lighthouse iTroup Head ; Staff iMacduff ; Spire ICovesea Skerries ; Light- house Tarbetnesb ; Lighthouse f 088 Head ; Lighuouse . . )uncan8bv Head ; Station )unnet Head ; Lighthouse )RKNEY.— PenSand Skerries; Upper Lt[8] Stromness ; Cnuroh .... Hoy;'.WartHiU Cantiek Head ; Light . . lAT. N. LON. W. o • # // e > // 55 57 23 3 10 46 56 2 1 3 8 6 56 11 8 2 33 21 56 14 31 3 13 10 56 17 2 34 40 56 26 4 2 23 7 56 28 41 2 68 26 56 28 7 2 44 63 66 33 45 2 34 63 56 36 55 2 29 24 56 42 5 2 26 6 56 42 31 2 27 61 57 8 16 2 3 2 67 8 67 2 5 42 67 8 33 2 4 6 67 10 11 2 6 3 57 16 62 2 3 67 57 28 14 1 46 22 57 30 44 1 47 32 57 36 62 1 50 39 57 41 51 2 6 67 42 2 1 67 41 38 2 17 38 57 40 5 2 30' 57 43 16 3 20 20 67 61 65 3 46 31 68 28 38 3 2 6 68 40 22 3 1 7 58 40 19 3 22 29 68 41 26 2 66 23 58 67 49 3 23 41 68 42 2 3 20 19 58 47 3 31 60 AUTHOlUTISS. The Grand Tbioonometbi- CAL or Ordnance Suevet of Great Britain, at present under the direction of Colonel Sib HeNrt James. j-iji ti ISLA. POSITIONS OF PLACEB. J COABTi OF SCOTLAND— CiOKTiKCED. StMit ^ottt of Sandat Uai^^Amm i NmOt Konaldi^y ; l.ittiMut^0^ StropuaytiiMU^ wSm- vey Fair luand ; Summit .... Fool Idaiid i summit (1,860 feet) North Bona Island SHETLAND.— Sumbuiwh Head Lighthouse . . [4] Brassa Island ; summit Lekwick ; the Fort Flagstaff Oardie House on Brassa Whalser Island ; snmmit BruryMe,Out Skerries Yell Isle; BeafrithKirk Strandburg Ness, Fetlar Fetlar Isle ; summit . . Haaf Oruna } summit . . Balta Island ; summit . . Saxavord; Stn.in Survey Lambness, on Unst .... Burraford Holmes .... Ramna Stacks Ye Skerries, off Saint Magnus Bay Fugloe Skerry, near Pa- pa Scalloway Castle Western Coasts Holbum Head Cape Wrath; Lighthouse LaxfordjN.W. Point .. Ru Stoer, Liglit Building Butt of the Le^*' RuRea ; Station in Survey Stomoway Lighthouse, in Lewis Cleisham in Lewis GlashorScalpa; Lighthouse Storr Hill, in Mull St. Kilda ; Peak at N.E.end Ben More, S. Uist ; Statn. Barra Head ; Ligl^'^'ouse Skerryvore Lightliou. Ardnamurchan Pa. ' ' Lighthouse Tobermorey, Mull; ll o.u Rxma Oal Rock Lismore Lighthouse; Sou:ad of Mull Ben Tartevil, on Tart-a- bhaiie, Islay Island .... tAT. M 59 16 42 69 23 5 69 6 88 69 32 64 60 69 8 28 7 16 69 61 17 60 7 61 22 9 24 1 41 60 60 60 20 60 2 60 86 66 60 33 61 60 37 12 60 39 44 60 46 3 60 49 39 60 49 60 61 60 39 36 60 22 30 60 20 16 60 8 31 68 37 30 58 37 33 58 24 40 68 16 62 68 31 67 60 8 58 11 30 67 67 49 57 51 26 57 30 26 57 49 2 67 15 31 56 47 8 56 19 24 G6 •?!; id 5/. 38 36 66 27 20 56 43 32 LUH W. 2 22 SO 2 22 10 AtrrsoBinxs. 2 32 34 1 37 60 2 6 40 6 48 47 1 16 23 1 6 49 1 8 41 1 7 40 1 22 46 2 1 3 46 33 36 61 66 60 24 47 IT 60 20 46 40 63 30 1 18 40 1 49 10 1 46 1 16 25 3 31 60 4 9 62 6 8 20 5 22 12 6 15 36 6 46 63 6 22 10 6 48 38 6 38 3 6 10 52 8 35 30 7 17 35 7 39 9 7 6 46 6 13 30 r; "■> 40 5 36 23 6 26 32 The Oband Tbioonovktsi- CAL or Ordnance Survek, as before stated. The Observations of Mr. Geo. Thomas, R.N., on his Survey of Shetland, &c., 1826 to 1833. The Admiralty Survey, based on the Ordnance Trian- gulation. ■4 ■ POSITIONS OF PLACES. ISLANDS AND COASTS OF SCOTI.AND-Comtinvxd. la iKhynnsof Iday lighihonie iJora Mand; North Pap, I 2659fi9et IMull of Cantyro} liglrt- I house ISaada Island; Ship Rock I light ICampbelltown { DoMiar Lt. iGoat Fell, Aiw^ T iund . iBen Lomouf' : '^'tJi-iivc h> Survey {Troon Li^hf: oiiw f Fladr^f. Lighttiou^.- , Arran Ish-iii iLifil' Oombrae 5 New Lighthouse iTowutlFoint; Lighthouse Ayr Lighthouse Corsewell Point ; Light- house MuU of Galloway; Light- house Southemness Lighthouse . . lAT. Wi LOW. W. ' * 1 It 65 40 23 6 80 44 56 64 8 6 6 66 18 38 6 48 8 66 16 30 65 25 45 55 37 62 6 34 66 5 32 16 5 11 24 56 11 24 55 34 37 4 87 52 4 41 39 65 26 30 5 7 2 55 43 16 45 61 44 55 28 9 4 67 67 4 68 43 4 38 11 55 25 5 9 SO 64 38 6 55 52 22 4 61 22 3 35 37 Ai'TROsnim. The OEiv ANCE SURYST, &c. NOTES. 1. Edinburgh. — ^The geographic position of the Astronomical Ohsenratory km the Calton Hill, was given by the Ordnance Survey, in 1816, as 3° 10' 54,*^ W. But this result appears to have been affected by a singular cause, which demonstrates the refinement to which these operations have been carried. It has since been found that the attraction of the mass of Arthur's Seat, (a hill to the southward of it,) has drawn the plumb-Une (or zenith sector) towards it, and thus produced an error of I several seconds in the calculation. This error was established in 1839, by Professor I Henderson, who made the longitude 3" 10' 45". Some very intorestinff experiments were made on this curious pomt, during the late Ordnance Survey, by which, not only the effect of mountainous masses on surveying operations was ascertained, but also the density of the earth was established. Since the completion of the triangulation of the Ordnance Survey, a new priu' ciple for ascertaining the difference of longitude has come into operation. The ex- tension oi' the f^k tnc telegraph has placed Greenwich Observatory in direct connexion wit} X other important observatories ; and in April, 1857, a series of instantaneous signals was transmitted between it and Edinburgh, imder the direction, at the latter place, of Professor Fiazzi Smyth, the worthy son of the excellent Admiral Smyth, [well known to all sailors. 'These eicperimento definitely settled its longitude at 12"43'.048in time, or 3° 10 45".72 in arc, confirming Mr. Henderson's previous [result. 2. Eastern Coasts of Scotland.— The Eastern Coaste of Scotland have all I been well surveyed by our Admiralty, upon the basis of the Ordnance triangulation. I The off-shore soundings, however are not yet completed. 3. Orkneys., &c. — Tht Orkney Inlands were originally surveyed by the elder I Mackenzie. Murdoch Mackenzie, F.R.S., was the first surveyor of our coaste who I conducted his operations on right principles. His first work, Orcadia ; or the Orh- \tiey Islands, with part of Lewis, was done at his own expense. Ite accuracy is great, land its utility is still unequalled. It was publitihed in 1750. He was afterwards em- [ ployed by the king in surveying the coasts of Ireland, &c. Later in life, lus H POSITIONS OF places: works were attaeked, moat ui^iurtly, bj Dr. Anderson, which called forth suitable replies, and justification from John Clark, of Eldin, in 1785. . This work maybe said to have commenced the Admiralty Surveys. lliey have since raaployed very many years of examination under the late Com- mander Thomas, R.N., and others. 4. West of Scotland, and the Hebrides. — ^Up to quite a recent date, the charts of the whole' of this portion of our shores remained^ nearly in the same state that they were left by Murdiich Mackenzie. Notwithstanding their imperfections, however, statistics have shewn that no great detriment to navigation arose from tiieir " ^s- gracefiil " condition, an epithet which will take 25 years of organized surveying par- ties, and £250,000 to remove. We may here add that they were examinee^ and partially surveyed, by Captain Joseph Huddart, whose chturts were long of good service. 3. COASTS OF IRELAND, ETC. The Nobthern Coast. Tory Island; Lighthouse Fannet Point ; Lighthouse Innistrahul ; Lighthouse . . Inishowen Head ; Light- o house Magilligan Tower, L. Foyle Port Rush Bengore Head [1] Rathlin Isle ; Church Lighthouse KnocklaidMountn. (1600ft) Fair Head The Eastern Coast. Tor Point Oarron Point llie Maidens t South Bock Light Hunter Bock (9 feet) .... Black Head Carrickfergus Castle .... Belfast ; Mouth of the L(wan Divis Mount (1800 ft.) Bangor Castle Copeland Lighthouse .... Donaghadee ; Pier Head Ballyhalbert ; Fort South Bock, Lighthouse . . St. John'sPoint; Lighthouse Slicve Donard, (2797 feet) Carlingford Lighthouse . . Hifl (1580 feet) Cloghcr Head Drogheda i Centre Balbrig^an Li^ht Si. Patnok's Island Bockabill Lighthouse . . Lambay Island ; summit . lat. ». ION. W. e 1 11 o ' * 55 16 27 8 15 55 16 34 7 37 52 55 25 56 7 13 37 55 13 38 6 55 38 55 11 32 6 57 58 55 12 30 6 50 15 55 15 6 28 35 55 17 35 6 12 2 55 18 10 6 10 40 55 9 43 6 14 57 55 13 30 6 9 30 55 11 50 6 4 10 55 3 5 58 30 54 55 54 5 43 5 54 52 45 5 45 .30 54 46 5 42 54 42 35 5 49 15 54 36 5 56 54 36 40 6 1 54 39 20 5 40 40 64 41 45 5 31 80 ^ 38 38 5 32 25 54 29 30 5 28 10 54 23 56 5 25 4 54 13 t 5 39 30 54 10 48 5 55 9 54 1 11 6 4 4 54 2 39 6 13 9 53 47 40 6 14 53 42 50 6 22 53 36 46 6 10 53 53 34 45 6 5 20 53 35 45 6 30 53 20 20 6 2 AVTHORITIIS. • The Surveys of Captain Wm . Mcdoe, B.N., F.B.A.S., made in co-operation with the Grand Trigonometrical Survey of Ire- land, 1828-52. :-, iiU'> "i *',■ -.1 - -•»• ■^. • < -;..- ^f.-i led Ibrtli suitable is work may be ler the late Com- POSmONS OF PLACES. COASTS OF IBELAND, ETC.— Cootiitoed. 15 LAT. W. Hcwth ffill? peak (66fi ft.) Howth Bailey; Lighthouse Poolbeflr Lighthouse DUBLIN ;Nel8on'B Pil.[2] Kingstown ; Liehthouse . . Wicklow Head Upper Light iTaraHill Forth Mountain Boslare Sand HiU Tuskar Lighthoune The Southern Coast. Saltees Light-vessel Coningmore Bpck Hook Lighthouse, near Waterford Helwiok Head Mount Knockmeldown Roche Point; Lighthouse Robert Head Kinsale ; Southern Light . . Stags of Castlehaven Cape Clear; Old Light- house [3] Fastnet Rock, Lighthouse Crookhaven ; Lighthouse Mizen Head Mount Gabriel Sheep Head Hungry Hill; Station in Survey RoanharricR.in BantiyBay Signal Tower, Bear Island The Western Coast. Durscy Inland, South Point Bull Rock [4] SkcUigfl ; Lighthouse .... Valentia Isle ; Fort Crom- well Feaghmaan Station at West end [4] I Doulus Hfad Dunmore Head, Dingle Bay I Fose Rock I Inishtuiskero Island I Mount Brandon, Station . . I KilcradanlleadiLiffhthouse I Scattery I., Round Tower I Loop Head, Ligrhthoune . . \ Muttcn iBland, ijighihouse lArran Island, Lighthouse Slyne Head, N. Lighthouse Inishgort Lighthouse 53 22 23 53 21 4 53 20 31 53 21 53 18 5 52 67 54 52 41 56 52 18 57 52 19 45 52 12 9 LON. W. 52 52 2 18 4 45 52 7 24 52 3 6 52 13 33 61 47 33 61 43 55 61 36 11 51 28 16 51 26 2 61 23 18 61 28 36 61 27 15 51 33 30 51 32 66 61 41 13 61 41 6 51 37 43 51 35 5 61 36 60 61 46 6 51 56 50 61 66 22 61 57 6 6 1 7 6 4 3 6 3 6 6 9 1 6 16 45 6 9 6 6 6 12 68 6 33 39 6 22 21 6 12 22 6 38 15 6 37 49 6 55 43 7 32 40 7 56 AVTHoarriBS. The Grand Trigonomet- rical Survey i' Ireland, and the Surveys of the late Captain MUDGE and other Officers, 1828-52. 14 8 31 68 9 13 46 8 16 8 20 62 52 62 62 14 62 34 3 20 6 4 62 36 42 52 13 38 63 15 14 53 7 38 63 23 59 63 49 35 9 29 30 9 36 26 9 42 31 9 60 9 32 9 61 40 9 47 27 9 47 6 9 63 40 10 14 10 10 18 30 10 32 20 10 19 16 10 20 41 10 19 10 29 10 39 40 10 34 30 10 16 10 9 42 34 9 31 16 9 65 56 9 3 9 42 10 14 9 40 10 6 1 12 ■n;M -■■■:• i'i^ •:'t (■ .-i-,^ . I . . ; , • -,» • - -.-,1 r 16 POSITIONS OF PLACES. COASTS OF IBELAND, ETO.— Continued. I Clare Island, Lighthouse . . Achil Head Slieve More, Achil Island Eagle Island; Lighthouse Tawnaghmore, Station . . Telling or Teelin Head . . BathlinO'Bime Lighthouse St. John's Point, Lighthouse Ballyshannon Church .... Slieve League {summit 1979 feet) Bloody Fai'land {summit 1060 feet) MuckishHill; Eastern pai-t LAT. N. d3 49 38 53 58 20 64 3d 54 16 59 54 17 39 54 40 30 54 39 47 54 34 8 54 30 11 54 39 5 55 8 14 55 6 21 LON. W. 9 58 58 10 16 10 3 26 10 5 32 9 35 47 8 46 10 8 49 52 8 27 33 8 11 47 8 42 38 8 15 41 7 59 49 AUTHOaiTIBS. The Grand Trigonomet- rical Survey, &c. NOTES. 1. The positions of places on the Irish coasts depend upon the observations made in the Trigonometrical or Ordnance Survey. The principal triangles, commenciag with the measurement of the hasp on the east side of Lough Foyle, in 1826-8, have been extended over the whole area, between that period and 1832, and give results which may be practically taken as absolutely correct. Since that period, the minute surreys of the land on a very large scale, have also been completed ; and upon this basis our Admiralty surveyors have constructed our present charts, b^ adding the soundings and maritime features outside the low water-line. This series has only recently been completed for the use of the sailor, as shewn on our charts. The names of Mudge, Bedford, Wolfe, Beechey, Frazer, Church, and other officers, should be mentioned in connexion with these operaticms. 2. Dublin. — The Astronomic Observatory, 3- miles N.W. of, Dublin, in latitude 52° 23' 13", and longitude 6° 20' 30", ia a point verified by triangulation as well as by observation. 3. South-West Coasts. — ^The surveys by Mackenzie, for many years the only guide to the mariner, placed all the south-west part of Ireland several miles too far to the south, an error, however wliich has been corrected a long period. 4. Valentia. — One of the most important geodctical operations in connexion with the Ordnance Survey, was the chronomctric determination of the difference of lon- K'tude between Valentia and Greenwich, in December, 1845. This arc, one of the rgest that could bo measured ia the British Isles, has been of very great importance, as well in verifying the accuracy of the Trigonometrical Survey, as in determining the true figure of the earth. It was canied on by Professor Airy, the Astronomer Royal, assisted by Mr. Sheepshanks, Mr. Hartnup, Mr. Hind, and several other ob- servers, by means of 30 pocket chronometers. The stations were Greenwich, Liver- pool Observatory, a temporary observatory at Kingstown, and Fcaghmoan, at Valentia. The final determination of the longitudes chronometrically, were — Liverpool, 12™ 0'.05j Kingstown, 24™ 31".20 ; and Valentia, 41™ 2.')'.23. By the Ordnance Survey, these longitudes were made, — Liverpool, 12™ 0*.35; KingstowUi 24™ 31*.48{ and Valentia, 41™ 23".07. VARIATIONS OF THE COMPASS, 1861. Dublin, 25° 26' W. ; Wicklow and the Tuakar Rock, 26° 0' W. ; Waterford, 25° 12' W. 5 Cork, 26° 60' W. ; Kinsale, 26° W. ; Fastnet Rock, 26° 25' W. ; Valen- «:» oa° AiV> \xr n«i, haven, 27° 35' W. ; Donegal Bay, 27" W. ; Lough Foyle, 26° 46' W. j Raghlin Island. 26' W. ; Belfai^t, 26' 42' \V. ; Lough Strangford, 26'' 30' W. POSITIONS OF PLACES 4. NORWAY AND SWEDEN. 17 !, and give results large scale, have 9 have constructed es outside the low le of the sailor, as Beechey, Fraaer, these operatimis. Dublin, in latitude ation as well as by ly years the only veral miles too far iod. in connexion with difference of lon- lis arc, one of the W.| Waterford, • 26' W.J Valen- / 45" W. ; Broad= 13' W.» Raghlin Trsenen Island ; 8ummit[l] Mangvardkua ; conical bea- con Donnses de » Chui'ch at N. end Eiom Market-pl. . . — Donntes Fjela . . . . Alstcn 6e ; Syv Sostre Mts. S. one SkiiBrvser I ; Klep harbour Sola Island; summit .... Vegen Island; Oulsvaag- fjeld Mountain Vegtinden Mt. . . Sjelva beacon, off Minland Hoiholmtindeme Mt., S. pe'a And.' I ' wtten Mountain . . S.Ta'v)e { summit Velf?;c]imd Oflissen beacon, on Kvaloe Hciihornet ; remarkable Mountain I Lekoe ; summit Vigten Islands ; outer Is- land, N.E. point Sulafjeld Mount. Indi-e or Inner Id., Rorvig on E. side I Folden Fjord ; Grinna bea- con on North side iKvocmholmen beacon .... jProDstoe Light, near Nueroe lOjoen ; Brakstad letter oen; Findanger Fjeld iHalmoe ; Villa Lighthouse lOxbaasheia ; Village at North end Ilhtholmenc, cone beacon . . |\igs Sjelcn ; summit .... Isen, Church Uminding oe j Hvalhov- den or S. point yro oerne ; Haltcn Inland j centre [.eikua beacon, off Lym . . ^uuIh Fjord ; Sulcn ^Ifower ii'i-oicn Inland j Titterml- den, or Went point .... Jlv 6 i centre Jrcat Koppcren Hill; on Miiiiilttna flittorcn Island ; W. point -OmduBfjelu on N. nidc rrondhjom Channel ; Tor- iiingoii LighthouHO ... LAT. N. 66 30 20 66 18 30 66 12 5 66 5 66 2 65 5o 65 46 45 65 40 20 65 39 15 65 37 45 65 42 25 65 36 65 33 32 65 13 30 65 13 10 65 4 32 65 4 43 64 58 25 64 54 64 51 30 64 45 10 64 47 25 64 43 35 64 40 20 64 36 25 64 32 46 64 32 30 64 25 64 15 30 64 17 43 64 10 64 10 35 63 55 40 63 30 45 63 40 A 63 40 30 63 48 4 63 20 36 (53 33 35 63 20 35 LON. B. 12 4 30 12 41 20 12 36 30 12 33 30 12 24 12 32 11 35 40 11 45 11 51 11 54 12 19 50 12 26 12 26 12 1 11 54 30 12 9 12 11 37 30 11 11 10 49 11 15 10 69 20 11 9 30 10 46 45 11 13 40 11 7 10 41 56 10 25 60 10 26 20 10 24 10 31 30 10 1 30 9 28 9 57 30 8 33 10 8 22 10 9 10 9 43 8 25 8 38 9 9 At'THOBITIES. The TBIOONOMETRICAIi SUR- VEY, made by order of the Nor- wegian Oovemment, by Capt. Vibe, &c., as explained in the Note?. u ,,m ' ' ' ■:.'■< r': .'•: :■) <;;-.^-.. . ' ■< 4 18 POSITIONS OF PLACEfl. NORWAY AND SWEDEN— Continued. Tnmdl^jeiii Channel; Agd- densBS Lighthouse. . i . . . Tbondhjem; Munkholmen Liffht Cathedral [2] Smoelen Island; Maaberg Tuva on North side Eddd; Trondl\jem S. chan- nel, Light on Bingholm Grib Islands, centre . . Stavenees lighthouse .... Aver o, N.E. point. Meeknokkeu Mt. . . Christiansand ; Light on Leerrig Island Frey oen ; Frey Kollen Mt. Qvitholm ; Lighthouse Stevshest ; summit Boesund; Boevceret church Sando; Church Romsdals Oeme; Harr o church Harams 6; Church at W. end -Lepso ; Light-vessel LAT. N. on reef Waldero; Light, on S point Ood-o ; Light on Hogstein Point Lt. on Halnsea Tang Hessd ; Su^r Loaf Rondo ; Lighthouse Svino ; centre Stadtland ; QuiteneDs at North end Fureness Bremanger Land; Older- veggen Point Froe Soen ; Smor Haven . . Battalen ; summit Kind 6 ; siunmit Alden ; summit Bue Land ; Yststoen Udveer ; Anchorage Feye Oosen ; Light on Helliso Beiven North Channel ; Holmengraa » Houeno; Light on Sktcllanger Bergvn ; Cathedral Light on Nord- nees liCcru ; Light on W. side . . Kora Fjord ; Marstoon bea- con 63 38 10 63 27 10 63 25 49 63 26 38 63 18 45 63 14 63 7 20 62 59 6 30 2 30 2 15 62 49 31 63 63 63 2 62 59 62 55 LON. B. AUTHOBIXIBS. 62 47 62 39 40 62 35 30 62 30 5 62 28 62 30 62 27 60 62 35 62 19 35 62 12 15 62 5 30 61 60 20 61 45 30 61 38 61 32 60 61 29 61 17 30 61 2 30 60 45 60 50 40 60 36 30 60 23 30 60 24 00 14 60 7 45 9 49 30 10 24 50 10 23 45 8 30 8 13 25 7 35 7 38 15 7 32 30 42 44 12 30 12 7 7 7 7 6 64 15 6 35 6 28 10 6 10 50 6 14 30 6 7 25 6 1 20 5 58 10 6 4 50 6 35 10 5 16 10 5 14 15 6 8 5 4 46 40 The TuiooKOMETEiOAL Sub- VET, made by order of the Norwesian Government, by Capt. vibe, &o., as explained in the Notes. 4 68 4 49 3i) 4 45 25 4 48 4 36 10 4 30 30 4 43 5 4 40 15 4 67 20 6 21 5 18 42 11 5 2 2 '....'It. '(,.: '^;--.,;t POSITIONS OF PLACES. NORWAY AND SWEDEN— Contimukd. 19 [ETBICAL SUB- order of the Fiir holm Light .... Selbd ; Oxhammer Lt. on East end Selbo Fiord j Furren ;^bea- con SlotterG Light .. Stoksund; Light on Fol- ger 6e Bommel Fiord) Ryvarden Light Roeyaer Island; Light on Gletta S&rhougsund; N. entrance Light Ucbdre Island s Two Light- houses Karmoj Skudesnees Light- house Bukkesnnd ; Light on Buk- ken Hviddings 5; Liffhthouse Stavanger ; Church Tungenees ; Lighthouse . . Botd ; Anchorage Egefield ; sumnut Jedderen Beef; W. extreme Warhoug ; Church Ekersima ; Yibherodden Lighthouse [3] I Vamees Lighthouse Lister Lighthouse on Gun- ■arshoug I Lindesnoes or Naze ; Light- house I Ryringen beacon iHlelleo ; beacons I Christiansand; Church .. lOdderd ; Lighthouse .... |0x6 ; Lighthouse [UIto ; Outer beacon I Justo beacon on Reiersl^eer |Homborgo; beacon at E. end iesnees ; beacon I'orungen ; Iimer Light- house khdvigodden Lighthouse 'liscrO; Outer Lighthouse I'romo ; Church rrotno Sund ; Bonden bea- con at Entrance ^and<3 ; cone beacon at N.E. point /HteiTiBof ; Sionghoimen liighthouse londclov i Church UlT. v. LOK. X. 60 d 15 5 12 20 59 59 15 5 14 59 58 59 54 30 5 4 50 5 5 59 48 5 20 59 31 40 5 14 40 59 25 40 'Ji 8 59 25 15 5 15 30 59 19 30 20 20 69 9 10 5 17 59 13 15 59 3 57 58 58 12 59 2 58 55 30 58 51 30 58 45 30 58 37 18 5 29 5 23 6 5 45 15 5 36 45 5 31 5 36 45 5 29 5 37 50 58 25 20 58 10 35 5 59 35 6 37 20 58 35 6 34 10 56 58 48 57 58 10 58 3 5 58 8 4 58 8 10 58 4 25 58 6 50 58 11 50 7 3 7 30 7 51 5 8 3 2 8 3C 8 3 35 8 13 5 8 23 45 58 15 20 58 20 20 8 31 30 8 41 58 24 50 58 26 20 58 24 5 58 27 10 8 48 8 47 25 8 47 45 8 52 15 58 31 30 8 59 40 58 36 10 9 5 5 58 42 40 58 46 9 15 9 5 28 AVTHOBrmS. The Tbioonouetbioal Sub- TET, &c., as before stated. ■W: ■ ' >•!,< •■, . '.- ■■.,■1' i .. :(-'■■■. ;'' ^;t\;:i .«.'*s. ;■> ■,t =**n' 20 . POSITIONS OF PLACES. NORWAY AND SWEDEN— Continubd. Kraserds S. end of Town Jonmuland Lighthouse . . Laneotangen ; Lighthouse Frederiksyeem ; Stevsemso Lighthouse Little Feerder Lighthouse Fulehuk Lighthouse .... * NOTES. 1. Elbe and Weser Rivers. — The details given in the table, are taken from the New Survey of these entrances, made by the Prussian Admiralty, and published in 1859. The longitudes are dependant on that of the well-known Observatory at Altona. 2. Holland. — The charts of the Coasts of Holland, are based upon the great triangulation of that country, by the Lieut-General C.R.T., Krayenhoff, the account of which was published in 1813. Upon the points thus established, the coasts and channels about Vlieland, Amelahd, &c., were surveyed by the late C^tain-Lieut. S. J. Keuchenius, published in 1831-34 ; the Texel Channels by Lieut. A. Van Rhyn, 1840; the Zuider Zee, by the same in 1841 ; the Schelde Channels, by the lato Vice- Admiral J. E. Ryk, 1841 ; Goeree and the Maas, by the same, ra 1827 ; and Brouwershaven Gat, by Captain Keuchenius, 1826. These fine surveys are deservii^i; of all con- fidence. 3. Amsterdam. — The triangulation of the Baron Krayenhoff was dependant on the position of the western tower of the Cathedral of Amsterdam, which was consid- ered to be in longitude 4° 53' 16".86 E. Its true longitude, by electric signal, appears to be as shewn 4° 53' 2'.55 E. By a Government notice, dated August 1st 1826, Greenwich is named as the first meridian for Netherlands hydrography. 4. Leiden. — The National Obser\'atory of Leiden was established in 1854, under Professor Kaiser. Its longitude was obtained by electric telegraph time-signals, be- tween Palis and Leiden, and is fixed at 17™ 56».60 in time, or 4" 29' 9".0. E. in arc. From this longitude, that of Amsterdam, and all others have been regulated. 4. Time Signals have been established at Willemsoord for the Nieuwe Diep, at Hellevoetsluis, and at Flushing. They were placed in electric connexion with the Observatory at Leiden, in September, 1859. 6. Brussels. — The Observatory at Brussels was considered by the observations conducted therein, to be in latitude 50° 51' 10".7, longitude, 0'' 17'" 29".0 in time, E. of Greenwich. Although this position may not affect those of the coast, which were obtained by an independent process of triangulation, yet the change in the assuiued longitude of the Observatorv of Paris, with corresponding alterations in the relative connexions between that and other obsei-vatories, will affect the longitudes of places on the coasts, in such a minute degi-ce, it is true, that it is perfectly inappreciable by the means at the ordinary sailor's command ; yet it is noticed here to shew to what re- finement these operations are canied on. It will also demonstrate the almost insuper- able diificultv there is in arrivinget an exact conclusion. This subject has been alluded to in connexion with the Edinburgh Observatory, and ^vill be hereafter with that of Paris. In 1859, a series of instantaneous electric signals was made to connect the obser- vatories of Brussels, Berlin, Altona, &c., ond the longitude of Brussels, as given by M. Quctelet, comes out as 17'" 28».9, or 4" 17' 30 ",50, East of Greenwich — a very close approximation to the independent nssiunption. lUED. LITIES. Triangulation yenhoff, &c. POSITIONS OF PLACES. 25 VARIATIONS OF THE COMPASS.— 1861. At the Scaw Point, 16" 25' W. ; at Hantsholmen, 17° 43' W. ; at the Horn Reefs, 17" 46' W. ; at Hambuig, 16° 0' W. 5 Bremerhaven 17° 0' ; Helgoland, 17° 40' W. j Emdcn; IT 50' W. At Terschelling, 18° 46' W. ; at the Texel and Amsterdam, 19° 0' W. } at Urk, &c., 18° 30' ; Brouwershaven, Walcheren, &c., 19° 20' ; Oetende, 19° 46' W. These variations are decreasing at the rate of 6' 30" per annum. 6. COASTS OF FRANCE. B, are taken fi-cm ty, and published n Observatory at 1 upon the great nhoff, the account ed, the coasts and iptaiii-Lieut. S. J. Van Rhyn, 1840; lato Vice- Admiral d Brouwershaven rviuj? of all con- was depeadant on vhich was consid- ric signal, appears August 1st 1826, )hy. din 1854, under time-signals, be- 59' 9 .0. E. in arc. egulated. Nieuwe Diep, at nnexion with the the observations 29".0 in time, E. coast, which were in the assuiued ms in the relative ttgitudes of places inappreciable by shew ix) -what re- le almost insuper- _ has been alluded after with that of •onnect the obser- Lssels, as given by reonwich- NoBTBERN Coast. I PARIS ; Imperial Obser- vatory [1] I Belgian Frontier? Corps de Card [2] I Bergues ; great Spire iDluudrk ; great Tower . . — Leugfuenaard Tower ICassel; Western Mouut . . [Gravelines ; Church Spire lOye ; Station in Survey . . [Calais ; Spire New Lighthouse . . jueUes ; WestMill .... }lanc-Nez>; Guard-house . . [ont Couple ; summit }ris-Nez Lighthouse .... ableteuse ; "Windmill . . Boulogne; Colonne de la Grand Armge Cathedral .... !!!ape d' Alprecli Lighthouse jomel Pt. Light ^taples Touquet ; S. Light )erck ; Light on Haut- Banc ~ payeux Lighthouse [rlport. Steeple Dieppe; St. Jacques Ch. iilly Lighthouse It. Valeryen Caux; Chapel Ncamp; Abbey I. d' Antifer p. La H^ve; N. Lighthouse e Havre; Steeple of Notre Bame fonfleur; Western Light ^estreham Church Iierville . Marcouf Is., Lighthouse Hougue Lighthouse . . fcpe Barflem- Lighthouse lierbourg ; Foi-t Central jon the jjigue LATITUDE. LONGITUDB. o ' // 48 50 13 56 8 12 28 1 61 4 60 58 61 2 51 2 50 48 50 59 10 50 68 43 60 57 33 60 67 46 60 66 41 50 66 33 60 62 17 60 62 10 50 48 45 50 44 81 50 43 38 50 41 60 33 60 30 62 60 31 43 67 38 60 23 52 60 11 42 60 3 39 49 65 36 49 66 7 49 63 12 49 56 22 49 44 17 49 30 46 or// 2 20 9 E. 31 13 26 20 22 33 22 41 15 48 7 44 AVTHOaiTIKS. 2 51 61 32 9 7 48 63 43 34 33 11 34 66 37 34 37 m 63 33 41 34 36 38 30 1 36 11 — 33 24 30 41 31 21 4 38 67 30 42 47 21 50 9 46 6 4 4 49 29 15 49 25 32 49 16 38 1 49 22 24 49 29 66 49 34 27 49 41 50 49 4r 28 6 24 — .13 38 — 16 33 W. 44 21 — 1 8 62 — 1 16 36 — 1 16 2 — 1 37 14 — Originally from the triangles intencfed merely for the admea- surement of uie degrees of the meridian in France, but ultimately carried on through- out the kingdom. These were commenced by M. Picard, who effected an actmeasurement be- tween Paris and Amiens in 1669, and finally completed by Messrs. Mechain and Delam- bre, in 1798 ; after having ex- ercised the abilities and indus- try of M. Cassini the elder, his son, and grandson ; and of MM. Mii-aldi and De la Caille, with other of the most eminent French astronomers, &c., to the present time. "' ;' -^ ' ■:m.L • '• i : •*.. '■* 1 i$^-' 26 POSITIONS OF PLACES. COASTS OF FRANCE— Continued. Qucrqueville ; Spire Cape La Hague ; Light- louse Aldemey ; East Mill Caaquets ; S. Lighthouse . . Guernsey 5 St. Pierre Pier head Jersey; St. Helier, Victoria Pier Chausey Island } Light- house C. Carteret ; Lighthouse . . Granville; Lighthouse . . Cape Frehel ; Lighthouse Le Rohinet ; Islet Cape d'Erqui Les Comtesses ; Western Hock Grand Lejon (Rock) Harbour Isle, off St. Quay Isle Brehat ; N. E. Point HSaux de Brghat; Light- house Les Sept lies ; Lighthouse He de Bas ; Lighthouse . . near the "West end OUESSANI or USHANX J Lighthouse The Bat of Biscay. Lampaul Kermorvan ; Lighthouse . . St. Mathieu; Lighthouse Portzic ; Lighthouse Brest ; St. Louis Crozon ; Church Bee du Ras ; Lighthouse . . He de Sein ; Lighthouse . . Penmarc'h ; Lighthoiise . . Penfret ; Lig[h3iouse He de Groix; Western Lighthouse Port Louis ; St. Pierre . . Belle He ; Lighthouse on S.W. Point .......... ; Borderun Signal He Hocdic ; Lighthouse . . Le Four ; Lighthouse .... Aiguillon ; Lighthouse . . Pilier ; Lighthouse He d'Yeu ; Lighthouse . . St. Gilles sur Vie La Chaume; Lighthouse house U KJk\ItXAkV f LATIUUX. 49 39 55 49 43 21 49 42 52 49 43 22 49 27 49 10 33 48 52 13 49 22 27 48 50 7 48 41 5 48 40 33 48 38 45 48 38 58 48 45 48 40 2 48 51 54 48 54 33 48 52 46 48 44 45 48 28 31 48 33 40 48 21 44 48 19 49 48 21 29 48 23 20 48 14 48 48 2 22 48 2 35 47 47 53 47 43 17 47 38 55 47 42 31 47 18 43 47 21 1 47 20 32 47 17 53 47 14 33 47 2 36 46 43 5 46 41 46 46 29 42 LOMOIXVDE. 1 42 OW. 1 67 21 — 2 22 7 — 2 22 42 — 2 33 — 2 7 18 — 1 49 40 — 48 31 36 52 19 15 28 53 29 24 2 34 36 — 2 39 58 — 2 48 35 — 2 59 21 — 3 5 17 — 3 29 33 — 4 1 42 — 6 3 31 — 38 6 — 47 31 — 47 57 — 32 10 — 28 14 — 28 38 — 44 3 — 52 9 — 22 36 — 57 21 — 3 30 41 3 20 34 13 43 13 65 62 11 3 3 2 2 2 2 2 1 55 14 1 47 50 38 16 21 56 23 AUTHoanixs. The Survey by Capt. Mar- tin White, R.N. The excellent Surveys of the Coast by the French Engi- neers, under the direction of M. Beautemps BeauprS, 1830-31. The account of the operations has been drawn up by M. B6gat. M ■i.-„ ,i,,>».j~- ' . . . ■:''"■'■'■. **«'' 46 29 28 1 47 35 — The Hydrographic Sur- veys of the Western Coasts of France, made under the direction of M. Beautemps Beaupris; an Exposition of which, by M. Daussy, was published at Paris, by author- ity, in the years 1829 and Remabks. It is to be remarked, that the longitudes, as given in the Con- ttausance dea Tetnps, compared with those in the Charts of the ,';!,'i'-;: iitiii"' < POSITIONS OF PLACES. COASTS OF FRANCE— CoNTiNUBto. 27 nede Hki Baleine Light- house ^Port of St. Martin Bocheile; Harhour Light Oleron; Chassiron Light- house Isle of Aix ; Harhour Light Point de la Couhre ; Light Port of Ro^an ; Light . . Cordonan Lighthouse Pauillac; Harbour Light Bordeaux; West Point of St. Andr§ Point de Grave ; Lighthouse Beacons East of Caphreton La T^te de Buch Signal Tower of the Biver Adour Bajonne Biarits ; Lighthouse Socoa; Hanwur Light .. LATITTTDB. LONOrtTTDE. 1 // > « 46 14 44 1 33 48 W. 46 12 20 1 21 67 — 46 9 21 1 9 30 — 46 2 52 1 24 47 — 46 36 1 10 48 — 45 41 30 1 15 26 — 46 37 8 1 1 54 — 46 36 14 1 10 30 — 46 11 66 44 46 — 44 50 16 33 55 — 45 34 29 1 3 39 — 43 39 26 1 26 44 — 44 37 57 1 8 13 — 43 31 36 1 30 6 — 43 29 26 1 27 67 — 43 29 38 1 33 40 — 43 23 44 1 41 19 — AtTTHOBrriKS. PihU Frpmeaii, constructed be- tween 1816 and 1827t under the direction of M. Beautempa £eatt- pre, show a difference amounting to, at the least, 61.6, Ijhe former Survey beine^o niuch less; which is occasioned by the latter deter- mination of the geogra^cal position of Crozon, near Brest,^ as explained in the Note. The corrected longitudes ore given in the Table. The HydkogJiaphic Sur- ■•v*'*--^****'-*^^' NOTES. -kH Paris. — ^The grand operations, in point of accuracy, fox the determination of the length of the degrees of the meridian, have taken place since 1783. In that year, a tnemorial was transmitted by M. Ca^ini de Thury to the Bight Hon. Charles James Fox, then Seoretar^ of State, This application caused the operations by General Boy, already e^lamed, which afterwards extended into a General Survey. This gentleman, in England,' acted in conjunction with Messrs. Cassini, Mechain, and Legendre, in France ; but it imfortunatel^ happened that the results of the two par- ties did not exactly agree ; that of the British officers being, for the difference of lon- gitude, 2" 19' 61 ", wMle that of the French was 2° 23' 16', In order to determine this question, the subject was resumed in 1821, on the sugges- I tion of the French authorities. The operations were consequently repeated under the direction of commissioners, nominated, respectively, by the Academy of Sciences and the Boyal Society. An account of the operations and results have been given in the " Transactions of the latter, and the determination was that 2° 20' 22" is the ! difference between the meridians of Paris and Greenwich. It was also attempted in 1825, by the respective governments on a plan suggested we believe by Mr. (now Su* jJohnHlerschel,^ and Captain (now Gener^) Sabine, and Colonel Bonne, of simulta- jneous observations of rocket signals at a chain of stations ; but they failed on the I French side, and the result, 2° 20' 22", was not considered satisfactory. I Notwithstanding the immense labour and consummate skill employed in these Imeasurements, the results obtained were doubtful, and it was reserved for the private [means of a commercial association to settle the question by means of the electric [telegraph. The death of M. Arago, delayed the French preparatious which were jorganized when M. Le Verrier became Superintendent of the Paris Observatory, and several thousand signals were transmitted in 1864, so many, in. fact, that a large por- tion were rejected, leaving 1700, or nearly 2,000, which were thought unexceptionable, ^ach observation is probably as accurate as the mean of all former observations, and he means of all shew previous results to be in error nearly a second of time (a large quantity in astronomy,) and which, corrected, is nearly certain to its hundredth DOl-t. The mean result of these final electiic observations, is that the D.L. between " 20' 9".4a in arc. ObBei'vatorieB, i» w- z\f'.o'6 oi tune, or 2" 28 POSITIONS OF PLACES We have been more diflbse, perhaps, than necessary on this point, but it is perhaps the most iniiportant geodetical operation ever undertaken. 2. The re-examination of the northern coasts of France and the triangulated Survey of the Western Shores was originated in 1814, by a memorial addressed to Louis XVIII. by Admiral Rosily, and Admiral Bossel, but from political events it was not commenced till 1816, and then M. fieautemps BeauprS started the Survey from Brest. The triangulation was based upon the carefiilly observed position of thuel Tour de Crozon, and carried out by M. Daussy down to the frontiers of Spain. The noble Atlas, since completed, is the best eulogy that can be presented for these im- portant works. VARIATIONS OF THE COMPASS— 1861. .*■ At Dunkirk, 19° 60' W. ; Calais, 20' 0' W. ; Dieppe, 20° 25' W. ; Le Havre, 20' 42' W. ; Cherbourg, 21° 36' W. ; Aldemey, 22° 0' W. ; Jersey, 21° 46' W. ; St. Malo, 21° 16' W. ; Brest, 22° 26' ; Ushant, 22° 60' W. ; BeUe Isle, 22° 0' W. ; Mouth of the Loire River, 21° 0' W. ; He de Re, 20° 20° 26' W. ; Corduan Lighthouse, 20° 18' W. } Bordeaux, 19° 56' W. } Bayonne and Socoa, 20° 0' W. 7. COASTS OP SPAIN AND POETUGAL. North Coast of Spain Cape La Higuerai Light- house Fuenterrabia Port Passages; Cape La Plata Li^thouse San Sebastian ; Mt. Igual- do Lighthouse Ouctoria ; Atalaya or tower Motrioo ; Atalaya Cape Machiohaco; Light- house Puntb Galea; Lighthouse Portugalete Bilbao ; Bridj^ Castro Urdiales ; Santa Ana Castle Light Santona; Light Building on Mount Cape Ajo ; extreme ; Santander; Monro Island Lighthouse Cape Mayor; Lighthouse San Martin de la Arena ; Suancos Church Cape Oyambre ; extreme San Vicente dela Barguera Llanes ; San Pedro Point Capo Prictro ; extremity . . Bella R. ; E. point near Rivodeaella Cape Lostres Qilnn I Rtn. Cnia\{nn Point liighthouBO ———Cape Torres I^TIIUUB. LON. W. O 1 II O ' H 43 23 35 43 21 46 1 46 68 1 47 43 20 21 1 59 33 43 19 28 43 18 50 43 20 2 26 2 12 30 2 24 25 43 28 43 22 36 43 20 43 15 10 2 49 26 3 4 2 3 3 2 65 26 43 24 10 3 16 6 43 27 30 53 32 3 16 40 3 26 25 43 28 37 43 30 16 3 45 43 3 47 6 43 26 10 43 25 30 43 23 60 43 27 30 43 28 48 4 36 4 20 6fi 4 24 46 4 45 40 4 60 40 43 31 43 33 20 6 6 4 17 45 43 35 13 43 37 5 38 2 6 39 AUTUOUrilBS. The valuable Surveys of Don Vicente Tofino, and Don Jo- sef Varela, of the Spanish Ma- rine, and of M(yor Franzini, of the Portuguese Royal Engineers, corrected by later observations of M. Saulnier de Vauhello, Capt. Florez, Capt. W. H. Smyth, R.N., and others. -■"f • tut it ia perhaps POSITIONS OF PLACES. COASTS OP SPAIN AND PORTUGAL— CoNTlifUED. 99 |CapePe&a8{ Lighthouse.. JAvJes R.; For!?ada Point ICttdillero ; Rerdlera Point Light ICape Bidio ; extreme .... ICape Busto; Lighthouse bUa de Navia ; Campel Pt gOrrio de Tapia Islaiid; Liffhthoose livaleo ; Fancha Island Lighthouse Fozi Point de los Cairos ?ort Vivero } Socastro Pt. Bstaca Point; Lighthonse Sape Ortegal ; extreme . . Cardelaiia Point; Tower Cedeira ; Point Pantin .... Cape Prior ; Lighthouse . . Cape Priorino ; Lighthouse on the Little Cape .... ferrol; West Mole . . . . [2] Conma ; Tower of Hercules Light St. Antonio Castle ^isargas Is. ; Lighthouse I on I. Mayor bape Villano; Lighthouse Pamarinas ; Mole West Coast of Spain. pape Tori&ana ; extreme . . pape Finisterro ; Light- on S. extreme urcubion ; Light on Cape Ce cmedioB Point; extreme [uruB Bay ; Lourp Mt. on North side upo Corrobedo ; Light. lalcociro Point; extreme roHa Bay ; Sta. Eugenia Church ■ ; Sdbora Island ; [ Light on South Point . . ; Carril Church ; Arosa Island ; I Light on North Point . . ti^iiza iHland ; Oalera Point Diitevi'dra Bay ; Capo I Udra ■Pontevedra; centre Jtvona or Cies Islands; M'aballo or North Point ■ ; Middle iHlund ) iLight on Mount Faro , . LAT. N. LON. W. AUTHOKITUS. o / // o / // 43 42 20 43 38 30 6 60 20 6 56 The Charts published by th Spanish Goyebnment, &c. 43 36 10 43 38 43 36 10 43 34 30 6 9 3 6 16 6 28 48 6 44 20 4^ 44 36 36 6 68 26 >.:V'',,-.,; 43 34 40 43 35 26 43 43 28 43 47 30 43 46 10 43 41 66 43 40 48 43 33 40 7 4 16 7 16 0, 7 37 40 7 43 24 7 66 60 8 3 8 6 6 8 19 9 48 27 60 43 28 36 8 20 33 8 14 26 43 23 43 22 8 24 8 8 22 6 43 21 60 43 9 60 43 8 8 60 13 9 12 68 9 10 40 :-,. , :.ii>t v^rv .:^,: ' f ■ - , . 43 4 30 9 17 16 '■" " ' ' ,",'.- — „ 42 62 39 16 24 '^'l' ' .> 42 64 60 42 47 46 9 10 8 9 7 35 1 42 44 30 42 34 38 42 31 9 3 30 9 4 48 9 1 3 42 33 8 67 66 • ' -,.'■. r" 42 27 60 42 36 40 9 23 8 45 42 34 8 42 20 7 R 61 68 8 64 30 ■•:,.■ .i,,r.-«'.r,! 42 20 42 26 30 42 14 50 8 48 60 8 37 20 8 63 26 * '♦..■. i 42 12 2 8 01 ■ -^.iVi.. *^- 90 POSITI(»fS OF PLACES. COASTS OF SPAIN AND PORTUGAL— Cowtinued. Bayonals;; Boeiro Island, off S. end Vigo Bay; Cape Hombre, rock off Viffo ; Castro Castle ^N.S. de la Guia 5 Cas- tle Light ^ Cape Sentoulo ; Mt. Ferr o Bayona Church Cape Silleyro ; extreme • Orullada Point; extreme Minho River; Mount St. Tecla Chapel Coast of Portugal. River Minho; Castillo.. Point Viana; Castellode Santiago River Neiva; Entrance.. Esposende ViUa do Conde River Douro; Light at N.8. de Suz .[3] Oporto ; San Joao de Foz Aveiro ; Town Cape Monde^ Lighthouse Peniahe ; Lighthouse on Cape Carvoeiro Berlengas ; Light on great Island Farilhoens ; centre Cape Roca ; Lighthouse . . Tagus River; Bugio Fort Light LISBON; Ob8ervatory[4] Cape Espichel ; Lighthouse Setuval or St. Ubes ; Light on Fort d'Outew Cape Sines ; Fort Cape Sardao Cape St Vicente ; Convent Light Lagos ; principal Church . . Piedodo Point Villa do Nueva do Pontiiiao Balicru Point Capo Santa Maria ; Light. South Coast of Spain. Ouadiana River; Ayamonte Mouth ' Odiol lUvcr; Lights for Huelva LAT. N. 42 10 12 42 14 45 42 13 35 42 15 6 42 8 50 42 6 45 42 6 42 1 41 5 50 ., •»-.,. K ( 41 60 6 41 41 25 41 37 30 41 31 41 21 30 41 9 9 41 8 46 40 38 40 12 39 21 8 39 25 39 29 38 46 6 38 39 38 42 25 38 24 9 38 31 38 37 31 30 37 37 37 3« 37 2 54 8 40 6 54 7 30 3 36 56 37 U 37 13 22 LON. W. 8 52 66 8 50 40 8 41 30 8 41 2 8 49 8 49 8 52 7 8 53 8 49 25 8 48 30 8 43 45 8 42 8 39 30 8 36 ■>A (tl 5-i' ,.■■■•• ■ ■; Si , .. MSiv 8 37 10 8 37 8 39 30 8 55 12 9 24 16 9 30 17 9 31 56 9 30 9 18 9 9 8 15 9 13 8 53 8 51 30 8 49 9 64 8 37 46 8 37 30 8 31 N 14 7 46 10 i f... - 7 16 6 61 34 AUTHOBITIBS. The Qiarts published by the Spanish Goyebnment, &c. nism^ti h -w y v»^ *i s . ».--. *iri 'Captain Sir Edward Belcher, R.N., 1833, &*• . ,^.-, . s , , Of.'.. Si- ■. i/tTJTTiro :;;.5i,-}.*:itvT ^ f:J' ; ........ 'itn-r-.rt'i .? no IV \ '<»0 ^M , ■■■ . l^i« t .•;»•?'/'> iJiiRi'I uii;*- : 2t 'dy-.ijiiO I ( R-T';Ur .Ttndio^S ; ■.— - • M • 1:1 I jjifjtf'rl bv.iizA { '■ ■! "■ ■ '. TiliU •) • t .-I'M } jjihu / ai/Ki'i. ■ —■ ■■ • • ! tbunM ri'O 10 lUJOY^ii Jni'i'l iliiiiA Ta oiiflJi^ ■Juuil.l uJLMl.!-, •- {OBITIXS. < Edward Belcher, 2r, ..*;.'-0 7*S*?' POSITIONS OF PLACES. COASTS OF SPAIN AND PORTUGAL— Continued. «l IGaadalquiver River; Pta. de Malandar Light I San Lucar de Barrameda ; great Church IChipiona; Church tower I Light I CADIZ ; San Fernando Observatory JS] San S«ba8tian Cas- tle; Light I Cape Trafalgar ; Tower on West side iPta. Gracia ; Tower iMt. Sella del Papa, summit (1567 feet) iPt. Paloma JTarifa; Lighthouse on S. point IPta. Acebuche ICamero Tower lAlgesiras ; Verte I. Lisht IGibraltar ; New Mole Light [6] Suropa Point i Victoria Lighthouse LAT. N. LON. W. o f v ' II 36 46 20 6 21 53 36 45 5 6 22 10 36 44 15 6 25 46 36 27 45 6 12 16 38 31 10 6 18 54 36 10 45 36 5 5 6 2 12 5 49 58 36 6 16 36 36 20 5 46 20 5 42 40 35 59 47 36 2 48 36 4 30 36 7 15 5 36 45 5 28 15 6 25 50 5 26 Id 36 7 20 5 21 32 36 6 22 5 21 ATTTHOKITIXS. The Charts published by the Spanish Goveknment, &c. 1.; if,X^: w\ ■'«; -^ ^R tit* ■r-::v^ '-fip. ui ■-*.«* W-' ''^.t' •:'.: ■.' ,■■■• NOTES. 1. The North Coast of Spain. — ^The whole of the North ooaats of Spain were excellently surveyed and delineated by Don Vicente Tofifio de San Miguel in the years 1787-81 ; at the same period that our hydrography was being enriched by the talent iind labours of Mackenzie, Spence, and others. The Spaniui Charts, stul most uae» ml, exhibit the minute details of this iron-bound coast with such fidelity, that but little change has been found necessary upon a re-amination. This doubtless is in pome degree owing to the geological stnicture of the countiy, which, devoid of ■loping beaches, presents a ipuch more efieetive barrier to the degrading action of jthe Hca, while the South-West Coast of France, at the bottom of the Bay of Bibcay, I embarrassed by those immense collections of sand, &c., the debris of the coasts to lie west of it, which is carried thither by the prevalent wind-waves and cut rents. But while the details of this Survey are so excellent, later, and more correct Observations show that there are some great errors in the relative position of the principal pomts. This was detected, among other operations, by the early observ'ations pf M. Uory. and perhaps by the Spanish suiveys, which were taken possession of by he French, at tiie investment of Madrid. Later, the Survey mode by M. 8aulni£r )E Vauhello, of the French Marine, shewed that Cape Machicnaco was placed Avarly 10' too far eastward, and other points from 4' npwards, alw) too far to the cast. ihese great errors are now, if not entirely n>moved, so nearly ailjuHtod, that the dis- ^rc]>ances are too small to atfoct navigrtion. The positions, esiivcuilly the longitudes, iven in the table, are in accordance with tlie charts published by the Deposito Hi- ogr&flco at Madrid in 1846. 2. CuAST of Galicia. — The North-wost coast of Spain was re-examined by 32 POSITIONS OF PLACES. Capt. Don J. F. FloreX, of the Spanish Navy, in 1835-86. His Surrey seems to shew the acciiracy of his predecessor Tofino. The positions of Captain Florez have been followed. 3. River Douro. — ^This river was surveyed by Commander (now Sir Edward) Belcher, R.N., in 1833. His determination^, which coincide with those made by Ad- miral W. H. Smyth, when a lieutenant, in 1811-12, serve to correct the positions pre- viously given by Tofino. In former editions of this work, we had to acknowledge our obligations in this, as in man^ other instances, to Admiral Smyth, for his im- provements in hydrography. It is sufficient here to repeat them. 4. Lisbon. — The longitude of Lisbon had been previously assumed as 9° 8' 40", being a mean result of observations mode by the astronomers De la Caille. Piii^£, and Messier, according to a great numbc)- of eclipses of tlie fii'at satellite of Jupiter. The occultation of a star by tlie moon, October 5, 1753, with a corresponding one at Paris, gave one minute more. Captain Fitzwilliam Owen, in the mcnmir of his important expeditions to Portugal and Africa, assigns to the Arsenal of Lisbon 38° 42 18" N., and 9° 8' 54" W., from obserrationg made in H.M.S. Zeven, in 1819 and 1822. 5. Cadiz. — ^The position of the Observatory in the city of Cadiz is established as 36° 32' 0" N., and 6* 17' 30" W. The New 0'bser^'atory {Heal Observatorio) of Sail Fernando, iu the Isle of Leon, is in 36 37' 43" N., and 6* 12' 16' W. 6. Gibraltar, &c — Mr. Charles Rumker gives the position of Europa Point, Gibraltar, as 36° 5' 15" W.— {Edinburgh Phil. Journal, vol i. p. 322.) The late Cap- tain Bauza, of the Hydrographic establishment at Madrid, gave Tarifa in 36° 0'. This accords with Mr. Rumker ; but Captain Livingston made the latitude of Europa Point, by sextant and artificial horizon, in 1820, 36° 6' 10'", and c.vnctly the same on another day, by the sea horizon. Captain Symth has given Gibraltar in 36° 6' 30", and 5° 21' 12". It is to be observed that Lieutenant Raper adopts 5° 21' 17", as the longitude of the Mole (or Europa Point in 5° 22° '), and this is from the observations of Captain Smyth ; Captain Shirreflf, 5° 20' 16" ; and Captain Vidal, 5° 21' 42. This position is important, as it affects the longitudes of the West Coast of Africa. The Hydrographic features of the important Strait of Gibraltar appear to have been very imperfectly known, and a single sounding made by Captain Smyth, which brought up water containing three times the ordinary quantity of salt, has served as material for speculation ever since. It is singular, that amongst the thousands of ships which have passed through this channel, not one should have recorded an at- tempt to verifjr such an important point. The depth, too, appears to have been much misunderstood, and overrated, the greatest being about 500 rathoms, instead of above 1000 fathoms, as was argued from one imperfect experiment. These facts have been brought to light by the Survey made by the French Government, by M. C.A. Vincen- don Dumoulin, underthe orders of the indefatigable Capt. Ch. Philippe de Kerhallet in H.I.S. Phare, in 1854-5. ■■■' ! 5 1 t. ';•-■. VARIATIONS OF THE COMPASS— 1861. At Fuenterrabia. 20° W. ; Bilbao, 20° 36' W. ; Santandor, 21° 0' W. ; Cape Pe- fias, 21° 45' W. ; Cape Ortegal, 22° 40' W. ; Coruiia, 22° 3' W. ; Corcubiori and Cape Finisterrc, 22° 50' W. \ Vigo, 22° 45' W.; Minho River Entrance, 22° 30' W. At Villa do Conde, 22° 15' W. ; Lisbon, 2V 60' W. ; Coi)e St Vincent, 21° 26' W. Cape Sta. Maria, 21° W. ; Cadiz, 23° 25' W. i Cape Trafalgar, 20° 10 W. Tarifa. 19" 62' W. J Gibraltar, 19° 48' W. coast. These variations are decreasing at the rate of from 2' in the S.W. poilions of the Ht, to 4' per annum in the Eastern parts. *,■..- 1 ) *J i.* ,:-:'*- "^AIm 8 Survey seems to iptaln Flores have POSITIONS OF PLACES. 8. COAST OF AFRICA. 33 lumed as 9° 8' 40", ! ia Caille. PiiigrS, itellite of Jupiter, corresponding one the memoir of his enal of Lisbon 38° teven, in 1819 and iz is established as bservatorio) of Sail is the longitude of vations of Captain i. This position is tar appear to have ain Smyth, which salt, has served as the thoiisands of fe recorded an at- o have been much instead of above se facts have been M, C.A. Vincen- pe de Kerhallet in ^ poilions of the Ceuta; Ahnina Pt. Light Sierra Bullones or Apes Hill ; (summit) Tangier ^ay ; Cape Mala- bata, tower Tangier ; N.E. part of town Cape Spartel ; Piteh . . [1] Arzilla El Araiche Old Mamora Mehedia Faz or Fez Meldnez Slaa or Sake Rabat El Mansoria [2] Point Fidallah Dar-el-Beida Azamor Mazagan Cape Blanco j North .... El Waladia Cape Cantin Asfee or Saffi Marocco I Centre [3] SUERRAH, or MOOODOR . . Cape Tefelneh Cape Gbir or Geer Jtaa Aferni [4] Agadir, or Santa Cruz Cape Agiiluh Cape Nim, or Inoon PortoCausado; Entrance[4] Cape Juby I False Cape Boiador Cape Boiador, or Bojador j Penha Grande; summit . . Seven Capes ; Central Cape I Angra dos Cavallos Rio do Ouro, or Gold River ; Entrance, North Point . . i Cintra Bay ; North Point ) South Point I Capo Barbas [6] Peora da Gall ; Centre . . Capo Corvooiro [6] Cape Blanco Cape Mirik ; the Down . . Tanit Bayi the Down Anj^d'H Hillocks I Southern ITho Two Palm Trees of Portnndik [7] I Down of VUmI Sand jScpond ditto IHuts of Inguiaghcr LAT. N. LON. W. • o * // o » I 3d 53 38 6 17 3 35 53 35 5 25 35 48 fO 5 15 12 35 47 6 5 48 40 35 47 .0 5 56 35 29- 30 6 35 12 50 6 9 34 52 30 6 25 34 18 6 36 34 6 3 4 58 15 33 58 30 7 30 34 2 45 6 45 30 34 2 30 6 46 33 46 10 7 20 33 44 7 23 32 33 36 30 7 35 24 33 17 37 8 15 33 15 8 29 33 8 8 38 33 48 8 48 32 32 27 9 14 50 32 18 15 9 12 31 37 7 36 31 30 30 9 46 31 4 9 47 30 30 38 9 63 30 37 30 9 62 30 26 35 9 35 66 29 49 9 48 28 45 45 11 4 10 28 2 12 14 27 57 60 12 61 26 25 15 14 12 30 26 7 2 14 30 34 25 7 6 14 60 63 24 41 12 16 30 24 8 12 16 36 18 23 36 18 15 58 30 23 7 16 9 15 22 66 36 16 14 10 22 19 30 16 39 12 22 12 30 16 48 4 21 46 44 16 66 40 2(» 47 17 4 36 19 26 16 32 10 3 48 16 12 20 18 29 30 16 2 18 18 54 10 2 12 17 25 18 12 10 6A 16 25 10 'Ji 24 16 30 I" AUTUOaiTIBS. Capt. C. P. de Kerhallet and M. C. A. Vincendon Dumoulin. Captain Washington and Lieu- tenant Smith, R.N., 1830. Captain T. Boteler, R.N., 1828. Captain "Washington, R.N., 1830. Don Juan Badia y Leblich, othei- wise called AU Bey, 1804. Captains Boteler and Washington 1828 and 1830. Captain Washington and Lieu- tenant Smith, R.N., on tho Mission to Marocco, 1829, 1830 ; and the Survey of Lieutenants William Arlett and H. Kellett, in 1835. Captain T. Boteler, R.N., 1828. Don Juan Bafdia and Captaui Washington. Lieutenant Arlett. Captain T. Botele ', 1828. The Chevalier de Borda, 1776. ObservationsofLieutenantsArlett and Kellett, R.N., 1836. Lieutenant Arlett, &c., 1835. The observations of Captain W. Fitzwilliam Owen, and those of M.le Baron Roussin, compa- red with those of tho Chevalier Borda. {See Note 4.) *«• In 1830, Captain Belcher, by repeated obacrvations, found CaiK) l}lanco in latitude 20" 46' 26', longitude 17° 4' 10'. H.M.S. Esk, Captain Purchaa, 1820. Latitudes, Captain RousNin ) Lon- gitudes infcn-cd by Chart, and uncc (ain. 34 , POSITIONS OF PLACES. COAST OF AFRICA— Continued. e. te' St. Louis, Senegal ; Light- house on Govt. House . . Bar of the Senegal ; North Point Little Paps, near Cape Verde ; Northern one . . Cape Veede; extremity Ahnadia Ilock8,off C.Verde; Highest and Westernmost Goree; the Lighthouse [8] Cape Naze Portudal ; Village Point Serine Joal ; Town RIVER GAMBIA:— Bathtjest Town j Flag- staflf Bird Island ; Flagstaflf . . Cape St. Maey ..[9] James Fort Tankrowell Elephant Isle : VTest Point Yamamaroo Town .... M'Carthy's Isle; Fort George Pisania, or Pisaneea. . , . Bald Cape Point St. Pedro Rix'er Souta ; Bird Islet . . River Casamanza ; North Point of the entrance . . Cape Iloxo Breakers of Falulo 5 "West Point Isle of Cayo ; South Point B18BAO i Portuguese Fort BIJOOGA ISLANDS, &c. Papakawa Islet Areas Isle ; Centre .... BololaTown; RioGrande Bulama Island; East End Bossessam^, or Tombelly ; North Point S.W. Point Gallinhalsle ; WestPoint N. E. Hog Island; E. Point Kanyabac; N,E. Point .: L.W. Point Orango ; S.E. Point . . . ; West Point .. LAT. N. 16 48 15 55 18 14 56 24 14 44 30 14 44 29 14 39 50 14 31 30 14 27 18 14 18 14 10 LON. 16 31 1 16 30 17 4 30 17 32 17 33 30 17 24 30 17 7 20 17 3 12 16 56 30 16 49 45 AVTHOBmES. 13 28 13 39 12 13 30 12 13 ,9 40 1 13 25 13 26 30 13 42 13 33 13 31 54 13 22 30 1 13 7 15 12 43 30 12 35 20 12 21 12 5 11 49 50 1 11 51 11 51 36 30 41 15 35 84 42 29 19 24 27 42 20 18 4 10 12 3 12 6 16 35 18 16 40 30 16 41 24 16 22 12 16 3 48 15 20 36 14 58 80 14 45 30 14 34 18 16 49 20 16 48 16 49 16 48 16 44 40 16 38 30 16 20 15 37 6 15 54 12 15 39 15 2 18 15 30 24 15 30 15 32 12 15 46 30 15 40 42 15 43 15 48 12 15 55 12 16 15 30 Captain (afterwards Admiral and Baron) Roussin, in the years 1817 and 1818. Captain Rousbin, and M. Givry. Captain Fitzwilliam Owen. Captains Owen and Boteler. Captain W.F. Owen, R.N., 1824. Captain T. Boteler, 1829. Captains Owen and Boteler. Survey of the River Gambia, from its Entrance to Pisania, by Cap- tain Richard Owen, R.N., as- sisted by Messrs. E. O. Tudor and S. M. Mercer, 1826. Survey of the River Gambia, &c. Captain Thomas Boteler, in H.M. sloop Hecla, 1829. Captains Roussin and W. F. Owen, 1818, 1821, 1826. I i Survey of the Bijooga Islands, and the acyacent Coast of Afri- ca, by the officers of H.M. ship I Leven, Captain W. F. Owen, 1826. •,* In 1830, Captain Seleher/val H.M.S. 2;YNa, from his observatione, made Pullam Island, Bonth end, in 10» 51 ' 5.3 " V,. and 16" 43' «- W. ; I ^e North end of Alcattci, iol 10» 38' 1" N., and 15- 20' 30* W. ards Admiral and lain, in the years 8. n, and M. Givry. illiam Owen. L and Boteler. Owen, RN., 1824. teler, 1829. 1 and Boteler. River Gambia, from toPisauia, byCap- i Owen, R.N., as- lessrs. E. O. Tudor tiercer, 1826. Bivcr Gambia, &c. as Boteler, in H.M. 1829. ussin and W. F. , 1821, 1826. le Bijooga Islands, icent Coast of Afri- Hlcers of H.M. ship I •tein W. F. Owen, POSITIONS OF PLACES. COAST OP AFRICA— CoNTiNinED. 36 South Breaker Fullam Island; South Point 1 Alcati-as Islet ; Centre . . ] Conflict Reef ; Centre I Rio Nunez ; Entrance, Sand Isle ; Rebucko Town I Cape Versa ; Summit IPongaa River; Entrance iMount Kakulimah llSLES DE LOS:— Crawford Isle Establish- ment. Tamara ; AiDthusa, or North Point ; West Point latacong Island ; Centre f elleboa Island ; Centre . . ?arrot Island; Centre :}afb Sierra Leone ; Extremity ,lighthouseriO] Sierra Leone ; King Tom's Point Freetown Citadel S'alse Cape ; Extremity . , [7ape Chilling or Shilling ianana Isles; Highestpeak ; West Point plantain Islands ; Gill- morris , — ; Bengal Rooks. . Extreme Point . . tie Isles ; North Isle ; Centre ipe St. Anne ; Extremity bioals of St. Anne : — ■ Northern Extremity . . Southern Extremity . . Western Limit tork Isle, in Sherbro' Ri- ver ; Huts biebar, Sherbro' River . . loom Kittam River; Forks ^iver Galinhas; Entrance ape Mount, (1,046 feet) ; Western Bench . Paul's River ; Entrance iPE Mescrado ; Ex- tremity (Lighthouse) . . lonrovia ; Govt. House . . ink River ; Marshall, an American Settlement ; Agent's House lossa ( Director's House . . lAT. »r. 10 56 18 10 51 i2 13 37 12 10 30 10 36 87 10 67 11 40 10 10 9 45 27 24 9 81 9 26 30 9 14 8 55 42 8 53 8 30 8 30 6 8 29 42 8 25 48 8 9 30 8 5 48 8 5 7 55 12 7 54 36 7 55 30 7 40 48 7 34 7 56 7 81 80 7 38 7 32 7 22 48 7 14 24 7 1 low. w. 6 43 6 22 6 19 16 6 19 6 6 8 5 54 50 15 67 40 16 45* 6 15 26 30 16 11 14 42 14 21 48 14 28 6 14 6 13 28 13 48 30 13 40 30 13 61 30 13 26 30 14 17 46 13 16 13 17 46 13 14 30 13 14 18 13 17 48 13 10 12 13 16 12 13 16 12 AXTTHOHITIBS. 13 13 13 3 12 2 48 2 12 13 4 12 67 18 (Not ascer- tained.) 13 29 12 20 42 12 31 30 12 8 36 11 38 6 11 21 10 37 10 49 10 48 66 10 22 45 10 4 5 Sandy Me in 10° 86' 87* N, and 14" 42' 19" W.-~Oeog. Jotmua, vol u. pp. 284, 291, 295. Captain (now Sir E.) Belcher. Lieut.Au8tin,inthe.4^tcan, 1827 . Captain Bolcher. Captain W. F. Owen, in the Leven, 1826 ; confirmed by him- self in the Eden, and by Captain ^'urchas in the Eak, l827. >> .J,-j;m*f; 'i'>;:'\.:JV. 'fin ;,'', Captain W. F. Owen, in the Z«- ven, 1826. Capt. A. T. E. Vidal, in H.M. ships Etna and Raven, 1) 6 tc 1839. 36 POSITIONS OF PLACES. COAST OF AFRICA— Continued. River Sestros, or Grand Cestos; South Entrance Baftbu Point Bloo Bara, or Barbarra Factory ; Sinou Middle Neefoo, or Niffou. . Cape Falmas ; Lighthouse Tahou Grand Berebj St. Andrew's River, King George's Town, within Swartou Comer River Fresco, or Rio de'^La- gos ; off the Mouth Grand Lahou Jack Jaques Assinee River ; Anchorage S.E. of the Mouth, .... Apollonia Fort St, Anthony Cape Three Points Acquidah Dixcove Ehnina, or St. George del Mina Cape Coast Castle, j Southern Turret ; Time- baU Maurec, or Moree ; Flag- staff Annamaboe ( Flagstaff . . Cormantine ; Flagstaff . . Tantumqueiry 5 Flagstaff Extreme Point Devil's Hill } summit .... BaiTacoe 5 Point Accra 5 British .Flagstaff Ningo 5 Fort Volta River ; Entrance Cape St. Paul Quitta ; Flagstaff . . . . Padiana j Town ... Little Popoe ; Road. Gmnd Popoe ; Road Whydah, or Ajudah Appee Porto-Novo 5 Hill ., Road . . Badagry ; Mount — - ; Road Lagos Kiver; JSntrance Beach . ; End of the Sandy LAT. N. # ' 6 26 25 6 9 10 4 59 15 4 45 3 4 22 9 4 24 47 4 39 3 4 57 8 5 18 5 8 3 5 11 8 5 3 5 4 68 45 4 62 18 4 44 30 4 45' 27 4 47 45 5 5 5 5 25 6 7 30 5 10 12 5 10 30 5 13 30 5 12 30 5 18 36 5 29 6 32 5 32 5 45 5 47 18 6 44 30 6 54 36 5 66 5 67 42 6 13 6 19 6 16 6 19 30 6 22 6 20 6 19 6 24 6 20 6 24 20 LONOrrUDB. 9 34 45 W. 9 17 30 — 9 2 5 — 8 32 2 — 7 44 16 — 7 21 30 — 6 54 30 — 6 3 47 5,32 6 4 67 40 4 26 8 12 7 35 5 14 45 5 45 2 8 66 40 1 22 30 — 1 12 6 12 7 12 5 36 46 48 — 39 24 11 18 1 42 52 54 66 67 36 16 43 6 25 34 34 2 43 30 12 48 18 18 18 48 18 48 30 3 47 48 — 4 27 — AVTHOaiTIES. Captain A. T. E. Vidal,in H.M. ships, JEtna and Baven, 1835 to 1839. 4: .f.»-,» JJ*.*;. .;: >:^f ■ *^ef^ V5i,4yi ; ;itt!{ George Maclean, Esq. Captain W. F. Owen, in the J& POSITIONS OF PLACES. 99 itisfactorily, many 6. — Cape Couvoeibo. — We assume as Cape Corvoeiro a point in 21° 46', accor- ding to M. Roussin, and not 21° 13', as given by Captain Owen. The lon^tude, in the translation of M. Roussin's Memoir, is misprinted as 19° 14' 65', which is, we presume, the Paris longitude — 16° 64' 46" from Greenwich. 7. PoBTANDlK. — The two palm trees are the first seen in sailing hither from Cape Bojador. Portandik is supposed to have been situated about a mile to the southward of this spot, but not a vestige of it remained in 1818, when it was visited by Cap- tain Roussin. It has recently been ceded to France, in exchange for Albreda, on tine QamLl w — See the description in Section III. hereafter. 8. GoREE.— The position formerly given was 14° 40' 10" N., and 17° 24f W.,from the observations of M. Fleurieu, 1769, and of M.M. de Verdun, Borda, and Pingr§. Coptain Boteler, in 1829, made it the same. The Argo frigate. Captain Hallowell, 1802, gave the lat. 14° 30', and Ion. 17" 24° 68". 9. Cape St. Mart. — From observations in H.M.S. Esk, Captain Purchas, in 1826, the position of Cape St. Mary has been given at 13" 29' N., and 16° 45' 12' W.; Bird Island, at 13° 40' NT, and 16° 64' 12" W. The results shew that the points Ue at least as far to the West, as shewn by the Survey. 10. Sierra Leone, &c. — In preparing the former editions of this work, we col- lected a large number of observations, whflih had been made, from time to time on the coast of Guinea, &c., between Sierra Leone and Cape Lopez ; they included those previously given by the officers of H.M. ships Argo, Amelia, Inconstant, Tartar, and others, and we finally appended to such as we selected for the tabular statement the following remarks : — " Although we have paid the utfliost attention in the com- parison of different results, charts, and descnptionB as shewn in the Tables and Notes, we are by no means satisfied with the conclusions as to mtny points eastward of Cape Palmas and St. And:' ^w's Bay. Indeed, all that has yet been done by the naval officers, and others, prove only the necessity of a new seiies, in oi*der to estab- I lish so much as may be coiTect, and to rectify so much as may not be so." Happily, I such rectification has taken place, and many doubts, even on the most important points, have recently vanished. We give a specimen, on the longitude of Cape Sierra Leone. Many years ago, the [late Sir George Young gave the longitude of this cape as 12° 33' 47" ; the French Tables afterward, as 12° 34' ; the Requisite Tables, 13° 9' 17" ; H.M.S. Argo, 1802, as 13° 12' ; the Inconstant, 1816, the same ; the Amelia, in 1812, 13° 17' 30" ; the Leven, (Captain Owen), in 1826, 13' 18' 0" ; the Eden, (Captain Owen), in 1827, 13° 01' 10"; Captain Sabine, Royal Artillery, in 1822, 13° 19' 0*; and Captain Purchas, in 1827, 1 13° 19' 12". Hence we adopt Captain Owen's longitude as given in the 'Table. It Imay be added, that Lieutenant Raper assumes the North Battery to be in 13° 14' 30" |or nearly as in the Table. .ijj By 318 lunar distances ^23 sets), taken in tlie West Bastion of Fort Thornton, at Freetown, Captain Sabine, in 1822, made the longitude of that spot 13° 16' 11" W.; md in 1827, Captain Owen in the Eden, made that of the Victualling Office 13° 14' 30" Latitude of the latter, 8° 30' 6" ; of Fort Thornton, by Captain Sabine, 8° 29' 21". Fort Thornton stands on the highest ground in its own immediate neighbourhood, excepting a small hill on which a martello tower is built, at a distance rather exceed- ing a quarter of a mile. The situation of Freetown, however, may be more generally stated to be at the foot, on the northern side of the range of mountains, which, coining irom the interior, finds here its termination in the sea, and gives the name to the cape, harbour, and colony of Sierra Leone : the general height of the range, eo far as it has yet been explored, is from 2,000 to 3,000 feet. 'The principal geological ieatm'e in the neighbourhood of Sierra Leone, is a red granite, of easy and rapid de- pmposition." — Captain Sabine's Notes.) COAST OF GUINEA, between Cape Three Points and Cape Lopez, in- klucUng the Islands. Although we described this portion of coast in the " Direct- ory for ^e Ethiopio or Southern Atlantic Ocean," we have considered it proper to outinue the series of points in the Table ; and for a description of the coast, and emarks upon the positions, we refer the reader to the above work. 40 POSITIONS OF PLACES 11. RlYSB Qttoraa. — ^This important river is described in the Directory men- tioned in the preceding note. In tne beautiful Chart of it, by Captain William Allen, published in 1857, the East point of the entrance, formerly given by mistake in 6° 4' E„ is laid down in lat. 4° 20' N., and Ion. 5° 55' E. The bar, with 2 to 4 fathoms over it, extends two leagues southward tvom the mouth of the river, which demon- strates the strengUi of the ebb tide. Within the bar, in an extent of 4 miles, the depths are 6 and 7 fathoms, but diminishing thence upward. VARIATIONS OF THE COMPASS, 1861. At Ceuta, it is 12° 50'; (in 1811, the variation was found to be 221° W.) At Cape Spartel, 20°. Between Cape Spartel and Sa£B Bay, it is, at present, from 20° to 20*10' W.> atMarocco, in 1804, it was found to be 20° 38'40"^W.; between Saffi Bay and the Canary Islands, it is now 20° 25'. In 1835, at Mogodor, it was 19^° W. it is now 20° 20' 5 and at Cape Nun, 20° 25'. Near Cintra Bay, in 23" 6'; it was 19|° in 1817 : near Cape Blanco, it is 19° 20' ; Bar of the Senegal and Qoree, 19° 40'; Cape Boxo, 17° 20'; Bissao, and mouth of the Rio Grtmde, 19° 20' ; Isles de Los, in 1856, 18° ; at present. 19° 5' ; Off Cape Palmaa, in 1820, 18° 60' (it is now 19° 60') ; in the neighbourhood of Cape Mesurado, in 1839, 19° 30' ; off Cape Three Points, and thence to Benin Bar, 20° W. ; mouth of the Quorra, in 1833, as at present, 20° W. 9. THE AZOEES, OE WESTEEN ISLANDS. FoRMiOAs, or Ants : Formigao, or Hermigon; highest Rock Dollabarats Shoal, 11 ft. Santa Mabu, or St. Maey: Punto do Castellcor S.E. Point Villa do Porto Maldebarca Rock, off the N.W. Point [1] Pta. dos Mates San Miguel, or St. Mi- chael's : Ferraria, or West Point City of Ponta Delgoda ; Castle Villa Franca ; Island . . Pta. Retorta ; S.W. Pt. Punta de la Marquesa, or East point [2] Pta. da Ajuda Morro da Kibeira Grande Porto Capellas ; Morro Pta. de Bretanha Tebceira : Monte del Brasil, near Angra Praya ; Pta. de Malma- renda Pta. de Serrata, or W. pt'. St. Geouqe: Pta. del Topo, or Island off S.E. point LAT. N. 37 16 44 37 14 30 36 6 30 36 66 30 36 59 31 37 60 37 51 40 37 44 37 27 37 44 26 37 48 15 37 51 50 37 60 32 37 50 30 37 54 40 38 38 33 38 44 10 38 46 V 38 33 6 27 46 27 LON. W. AVTH0BITIE8. 24 47 6 20 43 26 25 1 30 25 9 46 25 12 3 24 4 50 25 52 2,-> 41 15 25 42 25 10 45 25 8 25 25 19 30 25 29 40 25 41 45 26 47 35 27 14 10 27 3 27 23 50 The Survey made by Capt. A. T. E. Vidal, 1842. .■:&v-.,(,..,-: '^>St'l»* .r;,;^„. u^v. .•p: rHOBITIES. POSITIONS OF PLACES THE AZORES, OR WESTERN ISLANDS— C!ontinced. 41 Pta. de Rosalee, or N.W Point Graciosa: Fort at Praya Pta. do Fozo; do Porto, or W. point Pico: The summit of the peak Pta. da Ilha or E. point Magdalena Rocks, ofip W. point Fayal : The S.E. point, or Mprro de N.S. dela Quia Caldeira ; summit 3351 ft. Pta. da Negra ; W. point FLoaES : Sta. Gnus Fortf 3] CoRVO : the Southern pomt, or Pta. del Perqueiro-alto lAT. N. 38 U 6 32 3 5 39 i 10 38 25 38 25- 38 32 5 «8 31 20 38 34 30 38 36 39 27 3 39 40 7 LON. W. 28 20 16 27 68 46 28 4 43 28 28 12 28 2 45 28 34 28 38 5 28 44 28 60 40 31 8 37 318 ATTTHOHinXS. The Survey by Captain A. T. 1 ne Burvey by uaptaii E.Vidal, in 1842-44. V" -" NOTES. .^:i2^, I '*''"•' ■^«^**-*"":"°' 1. AzoBES.— The voyag|e of M. Fleurieu, in the Isis frigate, made in 176S-69, I and published in L773, furnished several observations of the points of the Azores, as {shown by the marine clocks of M. Ferdinand Berthoud, andverified, in great measure, by more numerous observations of Don Vicente Tofino, made in 1788. The difference I in the results of these two observers was generally inconsiderable ; so small, indeed, I that it may rather be considered as an agreement. M. Fleurieu ascertained the position of the Mount of Brasil, near Angra, in Ter- Iceira, to be 38' 38' 37" N., and 27" 12' 27" W 1 otiii.. d result was 38° 38' 10," and |27°14'40'"; a remarkable coincidence, .considc: ,g the distance of time at which the ■observations were made. The longitude of this root was, therefore, assumed by the ISpnish commander, as the meridian reforn d to from the points subsequently aeter- Imined. The summit of the mount, as given by Captain FitzRoy, R.N., is in 38° 38' 35, ad 27° 12' 64". Captain Alexander T. E. Vidal, R.N.. who re-surveyed these islands, makes the Fort at Villa do Porto, in St. Maiys, in lat. 36° 66' 30, and Ion. 26° 9' 46" W. 2. St. MicnAELS., &c. — In our former statements we noticed the erroneous posi- jtions of St. Michael's Terceira, &o., which had, from time to time, appeared in the equisite Tables and Connaissance des Terns ; but, as the doubts have vanished it Should be no longer usefiil to repeat those remarks. Captain FitzRoy gives St. Bras Tastle, near Porta Delgada, as 37° 43' 58' and 26° 40' 16 . 3 .Flores and Corvo. — The longitudes of these islands were piven according to Ihe results of Tofino j they differ slightly from those of Captain Vidal as now stated. liPtefe the Chart of the Azores, Cunary Islands, and opposite coasts, with the harbours, PC, constructed by the editor, and published by the proprietor, of this work. VARIATIONS OF THE COMPASS. At St. Michael's, in 1826, the variation was 24° 15' W. At Flores, 19° W. Cap- ain Livingston, by means of many observations, near Ponta Delgada, found it about 85° W., in 1818. This gentleman properly observes, that differences may be ascribed I the volcanic commotions and fenoiginouB nature of the country. See Note on the [Variation at Tenerife, herenf^pr. The present variation (1861), as estimated ly Mr. F. J. Evans, R.N., is from 34° 50' I % Southern Eastern part of the group, to 37^ tarintion is slightly tnrrcrt^ni/. ,. ;... ,. 37* in the North-western portion. T^s 42 POSITIONS OF PLACES. 10. THE MADEIRA AND OANAEY ISLANDS. Madeira: Town of Funohal, British Consul's Garden . .[1] Camera de Lobos Punta del Parga, the West Point Tristoo, or N.W. Point.. S. Jorge point Cape Qardoo, or Brazen Head ;. S.E. extremity Pta. de S. Lourenzo, the East point Pico Kmvo ; summit, 6056 feet Porto Santo: Villa Bal- eira on the South 8ide[2] Baixo Island, South pomt Dezertas : Chao Island $ Sail Rock Bugio Island ; Agulha point , . . . . ITie Salvages: Middle of th? Great Sal- vage [3] LANZAROTE, orLAN^EROTE: Allcgranza Isle, oS the North end Port de Naos FUERTAVENTCRA : Isle of Lobos, Pt. Mar- tino Point Jandia, the S.W point Canaria, or Grand Ca- nary: The Islcta, or N.E point Point Arguiucguiii, or South point Point Aldea, the West point Tenerifk, or Teneriffe : SiintaCruziMoleLt.[4] Pico do Tcide ; summit Orotava (N.W. side) . . Pta de Anag E. point Pta. de la Ranv u, S. point Oomera : The Port Pta. de Colera, W. point . : Palma : Sta. Cruz, on the E. aide Taxacorto, on the W. side Ferro : Port^e Hierro P.---wf*i'.-' ^^...'.•'•t--- -.j^ - 32 24 16 28 20 30 8 30 15 55 36 29 25 30 18 30 30 28 58 30 13 32 30 28 45 30 13 48 30 28 3 14 31 28 11 15 25 ''.M.T ■' ■ ■ 27 44 55 15 40 10 -U'.rVivl . ., 28 1 16 30 :■■■ ...:^ •^,iix ;^' 28 28 33 16 14 56 28 16 35 16 38 2 ■ •rt^:.'f^,nyu' 28 25 16 33 •• ■ «^3.''^ 28 33 50 16 6 vit 'u 28 30 16 41 •«..,. ..-.1 -1)' :ti \! ■ 28 8 17 5 56 ■ ■.!'l/^'/ '' ' 28 6 45 17 22 28 40 30 17 44 28 ',.>''.'■■ 28 38 12 17 35 55 t l,M' 27 46 30 17 64 22 27 42 20 18 45 I lSl'i;|4^ 27 37 3 17 60 50 - j./.'-ij^ii ,it' ..-., POSITIONS OF PLACES. 43 itarmlliamOwon, E. Vidal, 1844. NOTES. 1. FUNCHAL. — ^The latitude of Funchal is well ascertained. The longitude was estimated by M. Bory, in 1772, at 16° 66', as it has since stood in the French Tables. It is unnecessary to repeat itie varying results of other obser^'ers, the differences having been decided by our respected coiuitryman, Captain Flinders, from whose obser- vations, in H.M. ship Investigator, 1801, the latitude of the road appeared to bo 32° 37' 44", and the greatest longitude, by any of six timekeepers, 16° 64 26. His Excellency Sir Thomas Brisbane, on his Vovag« to Now South Wales (1821), obtained lus time at the house of Mr. J. \V. Ooraon, at Funchal, by four excellent chronometers, by which the mean longitude was concluded as 16° o4' 36". At the same time the latitude of the tower, on Mr. Gordon's house, was found to be 32° 38' 19-7', and that of the Loo B«ck, 32° 37' 63-8'. The longitude given by Sir Thomas Brisbane was confirmed by ten Admiralty chronometers, under tne care of Dr. Tiarks, in 1823, which gave for the longitude of the British Consul's Garden, 16° 64' 46' (in time 1'' 7" 39'), the position given in the Table. Captain Fitzwilliam Owen, from observations in H.M. ship Leven, in 1820, gives the landing-place, near the Loo Qastle, in 32° 37' 42' N., and 16° 66' 30' W. Desertas. — Captain Flinders states the southern end of the Bvjio to be in lati- tude 32° 24' 20", wmch differs less than a mile frt>m its position as previously given on the charts ; and he discovered a small ledge of rocks projecting from uinacr tho cliffs at the S.W. part of this island. Captain Owen gives tho North end of tho Noi-th Deserta in 32° 36' 30" N., and 16° 33' W. The South end of tho Southern Isle {Btyio) ho gives in 32° 28' 30" N., and 31° 18' W. It may probably be rather more eastward, but certainly not more West. 2. Porto Santo. — A plan of this island, from a survey by Lieutenant-Colonel Roberts and Captain Thomas WoUey, of H.M. ship Arethusa (1802), states, in general terms, the latitude of the town_ to be 33" 2', ana its longitude 16° 35', which is only twenty minutes East of the meridian of Funchal. But, in the former edition of this work, upon a comparison of this statement with the different Tables and Charts, it was considered that the difference should be at leaut 37 minutes, and it was assumed in the Table. This has been in a measure confii-med by the recent observations of Captain Vidal, whose position is that given, the difference being 34' 42'. See the Chart of the Azores ana Canary Islands before mentioned. Tho Requisite Tables and Connaisaanct des Terns give the li itudc of the middle of the isle 36° 6', and the lon- gitude 16° 14' 61 ', and 16° 17' 34 . Captain Owen gives the governor's house in 33° 2' 64' N., and 16° 18' 48' W. 3. The Salvages.— The longitude of the Great Snlvago, as furnished by five British East India Journals, differs from 16° 34' to 16° 1'. The mean result of these is 16° 48' W. Yet we hn\ i> not deemed this evidence sufficient to cause a deviation from the position assigned in the Table. M. La Pfirouso has observed : " Wo were emjiloyed on tho 18th of August, 1786, in taking observations off the Salvage, and I think its longitude may be fixed in 18° 13', (15° 63' from Greenwich), and its latitude 30° 8' 16." Captain Wm. Mudgc, R.N., who, with Captain Vidal, surveyed the Great Salvage in 1820, places its South side in 30° 7' 39; N., and 16° 66' 18' W. : and he says of it-- " This Island is obviouslv of volcanic oriy;in, and consists principally of a dark-coloured black rock, the dotaehca parts of whicli, as well as the wliole, exhibit strong marks of fixed magnotio polarity. Even the dust of the roads, and of the floors of the eot- tofi^oB, has the same character as tho rock itself, and may bo gatliorcd up, liko steel filmgs by moans of a bar magnet. " The compass was singularly derangped at tho thtce stations taken on the survey, and tho extreme difference in its variations amoimted to about 72° at a less distance than a mile. At the first station, one morning, Mr. Dumford, one of the party, laid down his watch, and on returning to tho same place again it was found that tho watch had fjfnined two hours in the interval, an acceleration due to the magnciio action of th« rock upon the balance." ■ .-■-.-,- 44 POSITIONS OF PLACES. 4. TEiVBBiFB.-r-The position of 6ta. Gnu in the Table is that given by Qapt. Vidal in his oompletiou of the survey of these islands (1844.) The previous observations have placed the longitude generally one or two minutes more, or to the westward of those in the Table. M. La Pfirouse says. " Several observations were made at Santa Cruc, in Teneriib, which we thinkmay be fixed at 16° 36' 30" (W 16' 21* from Greenwich), and 28" 27' 30' N." InjIlSlT, the Baron Boussin, of the French Navy, placed the Mole Head of Sta. Gnu in 28° 27' 68" N., and 16° 19' 0'" W. ; and from this meridian he deduced, by chro- nometers, the longitudes of all the eoast between Cape Boiador and the Isles de Los, whidi have already been described. Captain Fitzwilliam Owen, from his observations in the Leven, 1820, gives the Mole Head in 28» 27' 54'N., ard 16' 16' O'W. The Peak he gives in 22° 16' 24"N., and 16' 39' W. The general mean of the longpitude of the Mole of Santa Cruz, from the observa- tions of Captains P^rouse, Bligh, Vancouver, and Krusenstem, of M. Quenot, and the Baron Alexander de Humboldt, is 16° 16' 16'. VARIATIONS OF THE COMPASS.— 1861. Between Porto Santo and Madeira, the mean variation is about 22°. In the road of Santa Chruc, Tenerife, it is rather leas, if we may conclude that it has been cor- rectly ascertained ; but M. de Humboldt bos noticed that the variation differs several degrees, according to the place where the observation is mode, at the Mole, or at severed points to uxe North, along the shore ; and, he adds, we must not be surprised at tiiese deviations ia a place surrounded by volcanic rocks. " I i*emarked, with M. Oay Lussac, that, on the declivity of Vesuvius, and the inside of its crater, the inten- sity of its magnetic forces is modified by the proximity of the lavas."-— (Pcr«ona/ JVarr., vol. i. p. 117.) Captain Owen gives the variation at Porto Santo at 23^° W. Mr. Evans estimates it at 22° W. in 1861. The same authority makes it about 21° at Tenerife, and 20° 30' at Fuerteventura. It is slightiy decreaaing. 11. THE OAPE VERDE ISLANDS. Sal or Salt Island [1] The North point The bouth point BONAVISTA : The N.W. point The N.E. point The New 'Town The South pouit Lcton Rock Mayo, or Isle of May : [2] The North Point English Road Soutii point Island of St. Iaqo : Bighude, or North point East point Porto Praya, Quail l.[3] S.W. point Island of Foao : North point Town of N.8. da Lua . . Brava : Itoad on tho Wc»t Hido LAT. N. LON W. < • ' '/ 16 51 16 34 22 64 34 22 56 4 16 13 20 16 11 16 7 15 57 15 48 22 65 44 22 42 34 22 56 34 22 48 44 23 9 4 15 12 30 15 7 30 16 6 40 23 12 4 23 13 4 23 10 4 15 10 30 16 30 14 53 40 14 68 30 23 46 34 23 25 66 23 30 34 23 44 60 15 1 15 14 53 24 22 24 31 14 48 24 43 34 AVTUORITIXB. ITie Survey of the Capo Verde Islands, by Lieutenants (after- wai-ds Cantains) Vidal and Mudgc, R.N. ; taken by order of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, in the years 1R19, 1820, and 1821, compared with the obnervations of Cap- tains King, Foster, Owen, &e. •(j •■i ni deduced, by ohro- POSITIONS OF PLACES. THE CAPE VERDE ISLANDS— CoirrwuED. M I St. Xioholas : East Point North point West point Southpoint IRaza : East point I St. Lvci\'. East point North point ISt. Vincent: Porto Grande |St. Antonio: [4] North point . . . . , West point , South point East point LAT. IT. 16 84 80 16 42 16 38 16 28 30 16 38 16 46 16 49 16 04 17 12 17 4 16 65 17 6 30 LOH. W. 24 24 21 20 24 38 30 24 27 24 19 24 42 24 47 30 25 1 25 6 45 25 23 10 25 19 25 25 5 AUTBoarnxb. The Snrvevi by Lieuts. Vidal and Mudge, 1819-21. lORITISB. NOTES. ^ --..-- — -.^»^~ 1. Sal. — A particular rtion of Sal, and all the other islands, will be found > our Third Section, heretuttr. * 2. — Mayo. — In the coufse of the year 1819, while surveying the Island Mayo, tiicutenonts Vidal and Mudge found the hills upon which they were carrying on pcir operations so strongly magnetic, that the needle belonging to the theodolite be< borne wholly useless | the dip increasing so much that the needle could not traverse, in onscquenoe of one end of it being drawn down to the face of the instrument, &o. 3. PoBTO Prata. — ^The lonjrftude of this place appears to be well determined i icular attention having been oirected to it by many of our most skilful navigators. [Captain FitzRoy places the West point or landing-place on Quail Island (called also ■)un Point), at Porto Praya, in Ion. 23" 30' 0' W. Captain P. P. King had made it [3' 30' 17" I Captain Vidal, 23' 31' 28"? and Captain Owen, 23°3r3"{ therefore kS" 30' 34*, the longitude formerly assigned to it by Mr. Purdy. in previous editions of ^is work, cannot be far fkx)m the truth. This was deduced nom the observations of icBsrs. Fleurieu, Borda, Verdun, &c., of Mr. R. Keilor, Captains P. Heywood, lortlock, &c. 4. St. Antonio. — Admiral Von Krusenstem, in the relation of his voyage round be world, nays, " On the 6th of November, (1803), at day-break, we perceived the Island of St. Antonio, at the distance of from 25 to 28 miles. As the wind was podcrate, I held directly to the westward, to keep still more away from the land, as Ims are very frequent in the neighbourhood of lofty islandH. At roon wc had an ■ lat 17* 66'. Tho S.W. point of the island bore, at the time, S. 24" E., I now steered W.8.W. , and as the wind froHhcncd toward the bscrvation in lat. «tant about 46 miles. hening, S.W. by W. The next day, at noon, tho S.W. niu t of the Island of St. Vutonio bore 86\ distant about 54 miles i and I again held S.S.W. " The mean of a variety of lunar observations, taken this morning, mode our lon- 8t\KU<, reduced to mid-day, 26' 17' 7'. fly the watches it was 2• ■•• i' I ■:'■> ^v-m! ,* vaftions to detennine Id appear to be even ppo8es the high land en chronometen, ia I Foster, 26» 22' 66' jint, 26° 23' 10". ilandBijtublished by I Antomo hereafter. ere found to be near! lUowed by Captaiml be Western, and 18° [ the rate of 3' petj D, LABRADOR, ITH0RITIE8. reyby Capt. BosnJ anish Navy, 1790-8,1 n 1806, BUDscquentlyl a Survey, 1845, &c, POSITIONS OF PLACES 47 THE F^BOB ISLES ICELAND, GBEENLAND, &r.— CoKTiNUEa i orth Cape Staalbierg Huk ; W. point Jndverdaxnees Sneefields Jdkcl OBEENLAND. ape Danell [1] )annebrogs Oe or Isle . . Dape Lowenom .olberflrer Ileide Dape Mosting [)ape Juel "larbic ape BiUe ape Tordenskiold [Jape Discord . , "ape Valloe Btatenhuk, otherwise Cape Farewell [1] Jape Christian ?nedrichsthal ^ennortalik ; Commercial Establishment ^ulianeshaab ... Dape Thorraldseu : , Dape Desolation [^ape Absalon Frederikshaab Lichtenfels kemtes }odthaab . . lolsteiuborg , LABBADOB. Button's Isles ; Middle Por* Monvers; Entrance[2] Mn, a Moravian Settlemt. cveret Islet, at the En- trance of Netsbuktoke, or Sandwich Bay . JS] 7olf Island; North End ^potted Island ; N.E. end ound Ilill Island lawke Island ; S.E. point pape St. Michael tape St. Francis [4] pint Spear NEWFOUNDLAND. leHe-Isle \ N.E. point. . . . |- Lighthouse on 8. pt. »Bpo St. Xicwisi Small pen- ■ uuttla on S.E. point . . LAT. N. 66 29 65 30 25 64 53 64 48 65 37 65 18 64 30 64 8 63 40 63 15 62 47 62 1 61 24 60 53 60 38 61 62 63 63 LON. W. ATTTHOBITIXS. 59 49 12 59 49 30 60 10 60 7 45 60 42 64 60 44 60 48 3 2 5 8 64 10 5 66 6b 32 60 35 67 66 24 53 50 40 5?' 46 53 30 30 53 25 20 63 4 52 47 62 37 62 32 20 52 51 1 53 22 25 30 24 30 16 24 1 23 43 30 36 10 38 30 39 30 40 7 40 16 40 50 41 41 42 67 42 15 42 26 42 40 43 63 40 44 6 44 37 45 16 46 10 44 47 56 48 10 48 23 60 2 51 31 61 21 61 42 15 63 34 28 66 20 61 65 61 48 66 32 65 37 52 21 16 66 26 30 66 21 65 26 65 27 56 31 18 66 28 18 65 15 30 65 22 18 66 38 28 The Danish Suktet, 1845. The Chart of Greenland, published by authority^ at Co- penhagen, in 1832, to illustrate the voyage of Captain Oraah, &c., and which also exhibits Scoresby's Land to the N.E., and the coast to the N. W., from various authorities, up to the paraUel of 73° N. :tmli A:- t^ Connaissance des Terns, &c. Captain T. Mauby, B.N., 1808. Inferred from Fort Manvcrs. The Admiralty Surveys, by Lieutenant Michael Lane, &c.,to 1790. The Survey by Captain Fredk. Bullock, K.N. '-.cd iiaO ['/^\ 48 POSITIONS OF PLACES. THE F^ROE ISLES, IC5ELAND, GREENLANT, &c.— Cootinued. Battle Islands; N.E. ex.' treme of S.E. Island . . Henley laland; middle of North side York Point ; East extreme Bed Bay ; Harbour Island, S.E. point Loup Bay; Flagstaff at head ot Bay Fortean Bay; S.Wi extreme point Amour Point; Lighthouse Bradore HiUs ; N.W. hill, 1,264 ft.,the Notre Dame of Cook and Lane .... South HiU, 1,133 ft. Middle, or N.E. hUl Greenly Island » . . Cape Norman [6] Cape Bauld Gnguet Bay ; East point . . "White Cape, near St Lu- naire Bay Needles Kocks, near Braha Br§hator BrahaShoal {6ft.) Cape St. Anthony Crlmaillidre Cove ; En- trance, East point . , . . Goose Cape ; S.E. point . . How Harbour ; Entrance, West point Fishot Isles; Northern Isle Croque Harbour; Entrance Groais Isle; N.E. point . . Southern Belle-Isle; N.E. Point Bouge Isle ; North point . . Canada Bar ; Entrance . . Hooping Harbour; Entr. • Fourchet Harbour ; Ent. Orange Bay ; Entrance . . Little Harbour-deep Head Cat Head ; Extremity. . . . Coney Arm Head Partridge Point Fleur de Lys Harbour ; East Point St. Barbe, or Horse Isles ; South-east poir "^ Paquet Harbour; Entrance La Scie Harbour; Entrance Promontory of St. John : North Bill Middle Cape South Bill St. John's Gull Isk T.A.T. X. LOK. W. AUTUOUITIES. 1 » // 52 19 36 o ' // 55 32 23 1 c 52 55 50 23 51 57 53 55 52 33 . 1 ^ 51 43 47 56 25 53 Captain (now Rear- Admiral) H. 1 ^ 51 31 27 66 48 58 W. Bayfield. 1 51 25 29 66 66 33 61 27 36 66 50 56 1 51 35 3 57 11 58 1 1' .1 33 54 57 11 43 ■; 1 ^ 51 34 40 67 10 58 1 51 23 11 57 10 43 The Admiralty Surveyft, by Lieutenant (since Captain^ Fred. Bullock, R.N.,andhiH assistants, 1 ^' 51 38 5 55 53 28 1 ^ 51 38 10 55 26 53 I 61 32 30 55 27 50 Messrs. T. Smith, &c., 1823, 1824, 1825, and 1826. The lon- 1 ^ 51 30 25 do 27 63 gitudes adjusted by the Obser- vations of Captain H. W. Bay- I ^ 51 26 6 55 29 5 I ^ 61 25 40 56 26 20 field, &c. I ^ 51 21 55 31 35 Rbmabxs. 1 ^ 51 18 30 55 6 50 By these excellent Surveys, a I F 51 17 20 55 37 40 very important desideratum has been obtained ; for before they were executed, the coasts whicn 1 ^ 51 20 65 67 30 1 ^ 61 12 30 56 40 60 they display were comparatively unexploied, although frequented I ^ 61 2 30 55 47 62 B ^ 60 58 30 55 33 30 more or less by the fishers. — Bri- tish Anmiean Ifavigator. n 1 1' 60 48 65 29 1 ^ 50 64 66 48 30 1 ^ 50 42 30 66 8 30 1 \ 50 36 66 14 1 ^ 60 31 66 17 30 ' !■ T .'Ji'j !4 ..' H 60 22 66 27 30 . -, >vJu»^iTifc;.;-u/ ' 1 ^ 60 14 60 33 30 1 ^ 60 7 55 40 50 :.. ;.',), t'' H c 40 67 30 26 46 30 f*^ }(i'J_',» - ' : ■ 50 9 20 66 9 60 i'-*^' i^\' I i 50 6 40 66 8 30 1 -. ' K ' * £ '■ j.v-,.M:!-- . |] 60 11 55 43 . , . .... \f^\ I I 4fl 68 30 65 51 38 ' H ] 46 68 54 36 60 1 .(■//uKi^UOH.v;... ■ 49 69 30 65 31 20 !l' ■ ■'■ I 49 67 30 66 29 20 H 1 49 56 6 66 29 50 ;■/... ■u«'3ki.-i9J,!i«|«j. B 1 49 69 .30 55 22 :i- 1 . ■'■: -: ui.v w aisnm. ■ -COMTINXTED. UOIUTIES. POSITIONS OF PLACES COASTS OF NEWFOUNDLAND— OoNTiifUED. 49 Rear-Admiral} H. Bishop's Hock Nippers' Isles; S.E. point Cutwell Harbour ; E. point Triton Hturbour ; Entrance Fortune Harbour j N.W. point Toulinguet Harbour } N. Entrance Change Isles; N.E. Islet Fogo Harbour ; Eastern Entrance Cape Fogo ; S.E. extremity Offer W adbam Island ; Lighthouse .... Ireland Rk. (always breaks) Inspector Rock (sometimes breaks) Snap Rock, of 10 feet .... Fimk Island ; Escape or East point Green Island, in Rocky Bay Bagged Point Deadman's Point Outer Cat Island Freels' Gull Island.... [7] Charge Rocks (6 feet) Stinkmg Islands Fool's Idand, off the N.W. Arm Shoe Cove Point Offer Gooseberry Island . . Malone's Rook Great Black Island; cen- tre of Little Denier Island Western Head Southern Head Young Hany Reef Cope Bonavista ; Light- house Bonavista Gull Island North Head Catalina Catalina Harbour; Green Island Light South Head, Catalina Horse Chops Entrance of Trinity Har- bour Bonaventure Head Bacalieu Island ; Light on North point Harbour Grace; Light on Outer Island Cape St. Francis St. JOHN'S; Fort TownR= end [8] lAT. N. ION. W. AUTHOKITIEfl. o » » t II 49 05 30 55 27 30 Th3 Admiralty Surveyors, Messrs. George Holbrook and 49 47 55 52 49 37 55 40 WiUiam BuUock, 1819 to 1826, 49 33 55 37 adjusted by the Observations of 1- . 3. Jones, 1828, Admifal 49 32 65 17 Bayfield, 1859, &c. 49 36 54 7 30 ■ 49 41 3d 54 24 49 44 20 64 17 36 49 39 30 64 1 . '■ . .^ r- 49 36 63 46 49 01 45 54 4 49 47 54 6 40 49 54 63 43 43 49 44 21 53 13 20 49 29 64 14 49 30 64 49 22 18 63 43 30 49 63 55 53 36 20 49 19 6 63 26 68 49 18 63 32 8 ". .>'?-. 49 13 40 63 22 20 49 9 15 53 36 30 '■■h^'.'.-^ : 49 4 4'> 63 67 30 I ■',-,' - : . . - 48 58 20 53 30 48 53 30 63 27 40 ■• 48 50 8 53 38 3 - 1 48 40 50 63 36 38 r . . 10 ^r-i 48 37 15 53 27 48 ■ ■'-"■■ . 48 37 16 63 21 48 '■■ '^'/'"'-'"^-^- ' 48 48 5 63 7 15 x*-- "■■<■', 48 42 53 8 >r, * ■•, m\H:.'rx(m 48 42 40 53 8 [ . , . ■ It 48 32 28 63 1 54 '•^ ' Bemabks. 48 30 45 63 6 18 In former editions the longi- 48 27 38 63 6 40 tv des of the S.E. and South coasts 48 21 30 53 14 18 ^ere deduced from the observations and Surveys of Captain .Tames 48 21 30 53 20 25 Cook, Lieutenant M. Lane, Messi-.i. 48 16 30 53 23 5 Caasiri, Verdun, Borda Pingro, and Owen; and these wore, gon- 18 9 1 52 48 44 eriiUy, from 10 to 15 minutes eatt- tcard of those now given in tho Table but tho longitude of the 47 42 40 63 9 20 Burgoo Isles \^F.clipse /.] remaina 47 48 4 62 47 29 asgivmhy CaptAn Cbol; and that of St. Pierre may, also, bo consid- 47 33 67 52 42 21 II ered as tho same. sd POSITIONS OF PLACES. COASTS OF NEWFOUNDLAND— Continued, St. John's ; Light on Fort Aaiherst, S. entrance . . Cape Spear ; Lighthbuse Biill Head Cape Brovle, N. point of. . Cape Ballard Cape Race ; Lighthouse Virgin Hocks, on the Great ' Bank of Newfoundland Trepassey Harbour ; Shin- gle Neck Cape Pine ; Lighthouse . . St. Mary's Cape ; Light- house Placen+ia Harbour Little Southern Harbour Extremity of Placentia Bay Bordeaux Harbour Great Burin Island ; Light on Dodding Head .... Cape CHArEAURouoE . . St. Pierre ; Lighthcuse on Galantry Head Cape Miquelon Connaigi-e Shoal Pfcss Island Cape La Hune Outer Penguin Island .... Burgeo Islands ; Eclipse Island Cape Rat; S. extreme [9] Cod Roy Isle 5 S. side Cape St. George Red Isle ; S.E. point South Head of the Bay of Islands Cow Head Port Saunders ; Entrance N.E. point Point r.ich; "West extremity Point FeroUe 5 Cove Point, N.E, extremity Anchor Point Green Islet ; N.E. Extrem- ity Cai>€ 1 XX LAT. N. 47 33 60 47 30 53 47 18 1 47 3 52 46 46 46 46 39 12 46 26 30 46 43 32 46 37 4 46 49 25 47 15 11 47 43 32 47 49 46 47 45 28 47 1 30 46 54 19 46 45 30 47 8 11 47 23 57 47 29 2 47 31 55 47 22 9 47 36 6 47 37 2 47 52 38 48 28 54 48 33 50 49 6 12 49 55 12 50 38 36 50 41 39 51 2 14 51 14 30 51 24 18 51 38 5 I.ON. w. 52 39 55 52 36 40 52 44 33 52 50 40 52 56 57 53 2 43 50 55 20 53 22 3 53 31 48 54 9 33 53 50 3 53 49 38 53 52 14 52 53 30 55 5 14 55 19 20 56 6 54 56 17 30 AUTHORniSS. 55 57 19 50 11 13 56 50 23 i 56 58 7' 57 36 15 59 18 8 59 23 35 59 11 44 52 13 26 58 20 50 67 48 25 57 18 53 67 24 23 56 2 48 57 42 40 66 33 63 55 53 28 The Admiralty Surveyors, as before. A Survey of Anf 8t. JPierr*, by lieutenant Da Petit Thooan, gives the Government House, N.E. of the town, in 46"' 46' 30* N., and 66" 9' 46" W. The French astro- nomers, Messrs. Yerdun, Borda, and Pingre, in the voyage of la Flore, 1771, gave the town of St. Pierre in 46° 46' 30" N., and 66° 10' W., and thus confirmed the pre- vious dL.«rmination of the Burgee Islands, by Captain Cook, from a solar eclipse, m August, 1766 PhU. Trans., 1767. Captain (now Rear-Admiral) H.W. Bayfield, 1827 to 1860. and Captam James Cook.. .''T,J ..til '.- '■■--,• ■ '• ■ ' NOTES. -V -,^;.:,l • :,-.:l>\r \. Cape Farewell. — In the Maps and chai-tfl in general, the name of Cape Farewell is attached to the southern point of the continent of Greenland. In the Dutch chains, which have been republished in London, the same name is applied to an island, at the assumed distance of 46 leagues N.N.W. from that point. Hence;, one point has frequently been mistaken for, or blended vtith another ; and this affords, POSITIONS OF PLACES. 01 :oBrri£8. ilty Surveyors, as Fbri St. Tierrtfhy Petit ThouazSysiTes Dt House, N.E. of t6' 46' 30* N., and The I^nch astro- 8. Verdun, Borda, a tiie voyage of la ive the town of St. r30*N.,aiid66'»10' confirmed the pr6- ation of the Burgeo iptain Cook, from a in August, 1766.— '67. *;f^- "^i •..V;.>.;.'i'.i!t/ >w Bear-Admiral) d, 1827 to 1860. ames Cook.. >''■ ' Hi •: ■-■ he name of Cape reenland. In the ame is applied to at point, Henoftj i and this affordsi therefore, one reason for the discotdant accounts of longitade, &c. Such mistakes are not likely again to occur, as will be seen from the following statement. In the first volume of the " Journal of the Royal Geographical Society " is given an account of Discoveries on the Eastern Coast of Greenland, by Captain Qraah, of the Danish Boyal Navy, in 1829, who proceeded uong the coast from Staten Hook, to the parallel of 65|% and who has disproved the existence of any ancient European colony upon it. In a single boat, amid difficulties almost insuperable, vntii only two Greenland men and four women, M. Graah reached an island, in latitude 65° 18' ; longitude, eon^iuted, 38° 27' ; he proceeded onward until stopped by an insurmount- able barrier of ice, and was forced to return to the S.W, All the coast appeared to be colder, more barren, and miserable, than the western coast. " It may be said to consist of one uninterrupted glacier, exhibiting oiUy a few patches of vegetation, generally on the banks of the nvers, and elsewhere, often' advancing into the sea and forming promontories of ice, which are passed with so much the more danger that they fi^quently fall in avalanches." During the whole summer of 1829 there was not one day which could be called warm ; and, before the 14th of June, the thermometer had never risen above 53°. At Ekolumim in lat, 63° 30', the vegetation appeared to be superior to that of any other part of the coast, even of Julianeshadb, on the S.W., reputed to be the most favored part of that coast. Bu' the vegetation appears to consist only in a flue g^tass, which withers quickly when exposed to the warmth of the sun, and in some anti-scorbutic plants, as sorrel and scurvy grass, vrith one or two kinds of flowers, and low bushes of willow and birch, not exceeding two feet in growth. The food of the natives is principally the dried flesh of the seal, with » little gpame and fish. Captain Graoh makes mention of bears, hares, birds, and salmon ; but he says that, " even at the latitude of 63° 36', reindeers, and hares are known only by name." The people, in their moral oharaeter, he describes as very estimable ; " and the reported good nature of the husbands, the submission of their wives, the obedience of the children, and the mutual affection and confidence of rhe whole community, make it difficult £o remember that they are pagans." It was tlie good faith, the hos-. pitality, the kind and generous dis^sitioas, of these children of nature, that enabled M. Graah to overcome the difficulties by which he was surrounded. On the 3rd of November, 1831, Captain Graah returned to Copenhagen from a second voyage along the coust of Greenland, but without having passed much to the northward o£ his former limit. The Geographic Society of Paris subsequently pre- sented their gold medal to the captain, accompanied by tne diploma, for nis perseve- ring and inde&tigable attempts in exploring this coast. During his last stay, Captain Graph determined the lengitudes of the two southern Danish settlements, Julianeshaab ' Nennortalic, with great precision, by means of occultations of fixed stars, &c. ; j-u^ we also gaiit, by his observations, the positions of Cape Farewell, never before ascertained, and Cape Christian, another promontory of the same island : Cape Farewell, lat. 69° 49' 12", Ion. 43° 53' 40" : Cape Christian, lat. 69° 42' 30", Ion 44* 46' 0". The eastern coast, is disting^shed by the name of the late excellent King Frede- rick VI. 2. Port MaNyerb, formerly called Saltpetre Haven, was visited and explored by the Thalia and Medusa frigates, which wooded and watered here, in August, 1808. Of the mode in which the longitude was determined, we have not been informed. The coast, as well as that of Greenland, now appears more to the westward than it was formerly represented. Of Port Monvers a particular plan is given on our Chart of the Northern Ocean. Without the entrance, on the East, are two groups of small isles, and near it is a closter of dangerous rocks. The entrance itself is less than a mile broad, but the and within opens into a fine basin, on the shores of which are wood, water, and winged game, in abundance. At about 2 leagues, true South, fr>om the entraQce, is j Moum fnoreby, 2,733 feet in height. 3. Sakdwich Bay. — This fine harbour was surveyed by Lieutenant Michael Lone, 53 POSITIONS OF PLACES. in 1771> but not the different entranoea. The defect, waa, however, remedied b^ Lieutenant Robert Pearoe, of H.M.S. .Fbrotin%«, in 1820. A range of mountains, called Mealy Mountaim, atand on the N.W. side of the harbour, and, beinff 1,482 feet high, uways coTered with snow, may be .seen from without Wolf jjHaaa, a dis- tance of 17 leagues. 4. Capb St. Fbakcis. — The coast in the vicinity of Cape St. Francis was sur* veyed by Mr. J. L. , Roberts, of H.M.S. Favourite, in 1820. At half a mile W.S.W. from the cape is St, JFVancia Harbour ; and at 1^ miles north-westward from the same is SeaUng or Seal Bight, St. Francis Harbour is snug and secure, but very small, and generally filled with vessels, during the fishing season, as a considerable fishery is carried on in its vicinity. Sealing Bight is moie commodious ; and here water may be conveniently had, but no wood. 6. Caps Noiuun. — ^This cape is placed by Rear-Admiral Bayfield in 51° 37' 57' North, and 25" 63' 28*, or 6' 20' to the West of the former surveys } and the longi- tudes of the whole of the N.E. coast, as far as Cape Freels, have been made in accor- dance with this, — See Note 8. 6. Capb Freels. — In the valuable survey northward of Cape Freels, by Lieut. Frederick Bullock, 1823-24, this cape is placea £' 10" South of the same, as given in the survey southward, by Messrs. Holbrook and William Bullock, in 1817 : to connect his with the southern parts, we have given the latter authovity. . 7. Cape Bonayista. — The assigned positions of this cape, is an evidence of the uncertainty which exists in the longitudes of this survey. The first sheet of the survey by Messrs. Holbrook and Bullock, made the longitude 52° 59' 15" In the re- issue, shortly afterwards, of the same sheet, it was shifted to longitude 53° 8' 20", or 8' 35" f^-ther west, nearly as it now stands. 8. St. John's — ^The longitudes of all the places on the eastern coast of Newfound- land are given weatimtrd of those assigned in the early editions of this work, and as also reported in the British American Navigator. The longitude of St. John's, as deduced from the observations of Captain James Cook, Lieutenant Michael Lane, Messrs. Cassini, Verdun, Borda, Pingr6, and Owen, woidd be generally from fifteen to ten minutes eastward of the longitude in the Table ; Fort Amherst, at the entrance of the harbour, having been given in 52° 29' W., or 13' 45' eastward of the later observations. In the years 1828, 1829, and 1830, the ofiicers of H.M.S. Hussar, under the orders of Rear-Admiral Sir Charles Ogle, made many observations in this poi-t of the world ; and the result given by Mr. John Jones, for the longitude of Fort Towns- end, is 64° 46' 22 " W., and latitude 47° 33' 42", and which position was recorded in the fort itself. The last determination by Admiral Bayfield as given in the table, removes this longitude 3' 8' to the eastward. The coasts to the northward appear to have been been given much more to the westward. It is neccssaiT to notice tncse discrepances here, althougt the amounts of differences as now settled, ore not important to the general na'vit.ator. 9. Cape Rat, &c. — The South and West coasts of Newfoundland are still repre- sented according to the surveys of the circumnavigator, Captain James Cook and Michael Lane, at the latter part of the last century. The original charts, published by Mr. Laurie's predecessors, are still in request, and it will be seen, upon comparison, that the positions given in Cook's first work are still found to be near the truth. NEWFOUNDLAND. — The description of the coasts and harbours of this island with ample directions for the navigation, &c., will be found in the " British American Navigator," ■pubhiHied.hj Mr. Laurie. VARIATIONS OF THE COMPASS, 1861. Iceland. — At the East end of Iceland, the present variation is- 38° W. ; at Ingolfs Holdc, 39" W.; at Portland, or the South Point, 41° W.; at Fugle Skiterene 41° 30' \\'. ] at Reikiavik, 43" 40 } at Staolbierg Huk, or the Westpoin^ 47°; at the North POSITIONS OF PLACES. 58 Cape, 46** ao* W. Inortatmg at the rate of 2' 25' per anntim. GBEENLAND.>^At Owe Farewell, at present it is about 02° SO'; at Gape Mcetteff, on the East coast, about 67^ W. { at Nennortalic, on the South coast, about 53° 7Xf\ at Frededkshaab, 5d° W. These variations have inereated about 2° 30' once 1831. Newfoundland, £ast Cba«<.— -Belle Isle, Lark Harbour, 37* 30' W. (aocordinff to Mr. Evans, R.N., it is 39°) i at Cape Norman, it is 38" W. i at the entrance m Canada Bay, 36° W.| St. Barbe, or Horse Isles, 35° { Cape St John, 34° 60' W.{ Wadham Isles, 35° 0' ; Cape Freels, 34° 30' W. } Cape Bonavista, 33° 30' W. ; St. John's, 31° 30' W. j Cape Race, 30° W. Sotah and West Coasta.—Cape Freels, 29' 50' W. { Cape ChapeauKouge, 29° 40' "W. St. Pierre 5 28' 25' W. ; Burgeo Islands, 29° 0' W. ; Cape Ray, 28° 0' W. ; (it was 27° 37' in 1856) j Cape St. George, 29° 0' W. ; Cow Head, 33° 32' in 1859 j Flower Cove, West entrance of Belle Isle Strait, 36° 52' W. (in 1859.) These variations are increa»ing at the rate of 7' per annum in the southern, and 8' to 10' per annum in the northern parts of Newfoundland and Labrador. 13. GULF AND ETVER OF ST. LAWEENCE, WITH OAPE BRETON ISLAND. LAT. N. liON. W. AT7TE0BITIBS. THE GULF. [1] / » » II Island of St. Paul. [2] The Observations of Captain (since Rear-Admiral) Henry Wolsey Bayfield, F.R.A.S., of Northern Ext~ Lightho. 47 13 50 60 8 20 Eastern side of Neck .... 47 13 9 60 8 30 H.M. surveying vessel, Oul- .ji-'' . i nare, 1827 to 1834. Magdalen Islands. [3] :„- - .: \ '■' ■- -';■' ■'■'n-i*'-': Entrv Isle 5 N.W. point, . Deamnan Islet ( W. point Amherst Harbour; Entr. 47 17 1 61 43 2 47 16 3 62 12 28 / '■ ..:!.»— *-.';» . ^^^,.i- 47 15 28 61 42 29 Coffin's Island ; N.E. point 47 17 30 61 23 ',' -' . .- - 1*^ .t ■- 1 ; , J ■ Northern Bird Islet 47 61 2 61 9 18 Bryon or Crass Isle ; E. pt. 47 47 53 61 23 40 ANTICOSTI. [4] \/i- '\ i* 1 :W-Ife .7■f^ i East point ; Extreme .... 49 8 17 61 40 South point 49 3 36 62 16 33 r'7.>.l\, / ^ili\t*-:* * _' *'*/,»K.t Heath point ; Jjighthouse 49 5 20 61 31 51 8.W. pomt ; Lighthouse . . Cape Henry ; S.E. Extr. . . 49 23 45 63 35 49 ■ -^ ■• '•' 49 47 42 64 23 44 ■ ■ • » . )* .-X-^-t f::-Vi^iy'. West point 5 Extremity . , 49 62 12 64 33 8 North point ; Extremity . . 49 67 32 63 9 <.'■'• f - ■ r ,:>.-;¥.* i '.i. t,. .;*Ti^i, r. Observation Cape ; W. side Bear Bay j Entrance of the River 49 38 51 62 41 27 ■ " '■'" .'";•' '' "'J'-" **- "■■ 49 30 22 62 24 32 LABRADOR, &c. [5] ■ '^ . ;, '. . • ! .*"■ ■*' • Bradore Harbour 1 Flag- ■ , i.- a i 7^ •' V. <-. staff on Jones House . . 61 27 30 57 14 15 Bdles Amours point. 5 S.E. Extreme 51 26 34 57 25 53 ^;! -V-,^i;f^ . ^i-r-' . ..-■. ■■>^'. M POSITIONS OF PLACES. GULF AND EIVER OF ST. LAWBENCB, &c.— OoxTuruw). LAT. M. Lion Idandi latiimiu .... Mistuioqiis I. ; E. povit of Cove in N. side Island. . Meoattina Harbonr { S. point of Dead Cove Oiand Mecattiti" pt. Ex. Antrobns Point i Nortb.pt. of Island Hare Harbour ; East side Wapitag^ Harbour { East point of Islet Cape Wiiittle; South-west Extreme of Lake Coacoacho B^j S. point of Outer Met .... Kegashka Say ( Islet at S. end of Beaoh Natashquan River; S. point of Entrance Little Natashquan Har. ; N. pt. Islet at nead of Bay Nabesippi Elver { S.E. of Entrance Appetetat Bav ) E. point . . Betcheween Harbour { S.E. point of Low Isle Clearwater Point ; S. Ex. Mingan Harbr. i Sandy pt. Mingan Island ; Sununit . . St. John Biver ; E. point of Entrance , Manitou Point; Extreme St. Charles Pt. ; S. Extreme Moisie River ; S.W. point of Entrance Carousel Island; S. Extreme Seven Islands Bay ; Store House, East side St. Maraaret's Bay ; Exty. Cawee Islands ; W . point of Little Island Effg Islands ; West pt. of North Island Trinity Bay; S."W. point Point de Monts ; Lightho. South extreme . . RivEB St. Lawrence ; N. Shobe. GoodboutR; Trading post St. Nicolas Pt. S. Extreme ManicouagonPt. ; S.E. Ex. Bersimia River; S. point of Entrance" Fersimis Point; S. extreme fil 24 1 01 15 43 50 46 44 50 44 2 50 33 12 50 36 24 50 11 40 50 10 3d 50 4 50 11 19 50 6 57 50 11 41 50 13 52 50 16 35 50 14 13 60 12 27 50 17 24 50 12 48 50 17 3 50 17 34 50 15 17 50 11 16 50 5 21 50 13 50 2 25 49 29 21 49 38 13 49 23 39 49 19 35 49 18 41 49 18 25 49 15 47 49 6 5 48 63 67 lOH. W. 57 38 33 58 12 8 58 59 23 59 5 13 59 16 48 59 17 23 60 1 23 60 7 60 18 13 61 15 38 61 47 58 61 50 33 62 13 62 58 13 63 10 32 63 27 6 64 1 66 64 7 31 64 23 16 65 14 8 65 48 48 66 4 38 66 23 33 66 24 4 66 44 43 67 1 63 67 10 6 67 18 8 67 21 58 67 23 18 67 36 4 67 50 4 68 11 55 68 36 54 68 38 29 ▲vTHoamis. The Surveyiby Admiral H.W. Bayfield, 1827-1860. ■jij,}!./,.,^- HjfJ,- m- -\ Extreme . . LAT. N. 48 52 45 48 37 17 48 8 32 48 26 a 47 24 40 46 49 46 48 38 46 48 32 46 33 23 46 22 -6 46 20 43 46 17 21 46 2 42 45 44 28 45 30 22 45 30 24 48 48 46 58 4 47 12 25 47 36 9 47 52 28 47 50 67 4 20 3 17 48 12 27 48 26 18 48 25 9 38 29 86 48 28 36 48 41 10 48 51 35 49 6 62 49 14 29 48 59 57 48 51 37 48 45 2 48 25 22 LON. W. 68 46 46 69 5 S3 69 42 52 71 4 61 70 24 62 71 12 49 71 12 31 71 12 33 72 7 72 30 72 32 72 41 73 6 50 73 26 49 6 3 10 20 AXTTHOBITISS. 73 33 5 73 33 18 70 50 44 70 21 39 69 62 39 69 40 39 69 33 41 69 32 59 69 26 6 69 8 3 68 53 3 68 68 23 68 31 66 68 12 68 1 60 34 67 31 24 66 45 16 65 43 34 64 22 55 64 12 3 64 9 26 64 8 32 T&e Surveys hy Admiral H. W. Bayfield, 1827-60. .............. .;.« :.■',_ r 'it)-. ": ; ■ •m- - -•: . . .. / ii-siii? ■- ■■ ."'•^ h&l :. . ., t.rt.'.iisy.ni*j % ?*fe>::>iE siitPt «6 , POSITIONS i Lighthouse Richibucto RiTerj N. bea- , con at Entrance I BuctoucheRiT.} Sta.atEn. ■ Coca^e Head} Ex. of Cliff 8hed!AC I Episoopal Church k Cape Tormentine } N.W. ^^exfaeme of Jouremanls. llffnlak Head, Bay Verte } Station Pugwash } Episcopal Ch. Amet Island} East Extreme Picton Harbour} Lightho. Piotou Is. } Lightho. E. end Cape George} Station in Ballantine Coyo Antigonish Har. ; N. beacon Pomquet Island } S.E. Ex. QutofCanso} Light N.Ent. PRINCE EDWARD IS- LAND. North Point Extreme ofCliff W. Pt. } High Water Extr. Cape Egmont Stn. on Extr. Bedeque Harbour t Green's Wharf CapeTraverte i Ex. of Cliff StTeter'sIs.} Station S.W. Extreme Charlottetown } FlagHtaff on Fort [8] Prim Point Lighthouse . . Panmure Island } Lightho- £. Pt. } Stn. on ex. of oiiff St. Peter's Harbour i Sand Hill, E. side of entrance LAT. N. 48 12 18 48 9 10 48 1 47 48 17 48 fi 9 48 4 16 47 fil 04 47 39 19 47 00 2 47 49 19 47 44 52 48 1 47 43 24 47 47 6 19 4 32 46 43 4 46 26 6fi 46 21 31 46 14 Ifi 46 10 6 46 28 45 51 14 45 50 15 45 41 25 45 49 50 45 51 40 45 41 49 45 89 17 45 41 42 47 3 41 46 37 14 46 24 11 46 23 32 48 13 17 46 6 59 46 13 55 46 3 10 46 8 47 46 27 id 46 26 44 LON. W. 64 46 14 64 56 55 65 15 6 65 26 26 66 7 10 66 21 26 65 45 30 65 36 59 64 58 43 64 61 45 64 42 12 64 29 28 64 39 36 65 4 21 64 47 17 64 47 32 64 37 45 64 31 41 64 33 32 63 42 7 64 1 63 30 18 63 9 40 62 39 10 62 29 54 61 64 32 61 52 56 61 44 5 61 28 42 63 59 3 64 23 64 7 39 63 47 10 63 38 51 63 11 29 63 7 7 63 1 50 62 27 24 61 67 42 62 43 56 AVTHOHITIXS. The Surveys by Admiral H.W. Bayfield, 1827-1860. •m' POSITIONS OF PLACES. GULF AND BIVER OF bT. LAWRENCE, &c. ComrmuEO* 87 Tnusadie Harbour; Eastern point of Entrance Orenville Harbour; High Sand Hill near Entrance Bichmond Ba^; Station on Boyaltj point Cascumpeqne Har.; Ligbt. Cape Kudare ; Extreme . . CAPE BBJBTONISLANli Bear Head ; Extreme Plaster Core; N. end of Bridge M' Keen Point ; Extreme Fort Hood ; Harbour Lt.at South Entrance Sea Wolf Island ; Lightho. on summit Chetican Point ; S. extreme Cape St. Lawrence ; N. ex. Gape North ; N. extreme . . CapeEsmont; E. extreme Ingani'Q ; Archibald point St. .\nne Harborr ; Beach Point Carer Point ; W. ride of entrance of Gt. Bras d'or Cunet Point ; Extreme . . I Sydney Harbour ; Light- house on Flat Point Table Head ; Extreme . . Flint Island ; Lighthouse on North-«ast end Scacari Island; Lighthouse Menadou Harbour Cane Breton ; Extreme . . 1 OaWus Bay ; Church on Cape I Louisbure ; Lighthouse . . I Michaux Point ; Station on Extreme iL'Ardoise; R. C. Church Steeple jSt.Pctcrl8land;S.W.Ex. I St Peter Bay ; Old Fort on West side of Haulovcr . . MADAME ISLAND. iGrando-digue Lennox I'os- save ) Station uriohat Harbour ; Jersey- man island, N. extreme ( Lightho. Marachc Point . , LA.T. tf. 46 24 fil 46 30 50 46 33 65 46 48 22 46 52 57 43 33 45 38 56 45 38 51 46 46 21 30 46 36 22 47 2 54 47 3 35 46 51 1 46 41 81 46 17 41 46 11 41 46 20 32 46 16 12 46 13 14 46 11 5 46 2 13 46 20 45 57 14 45 42 7 45 54 34 45 34 11 45 36 45 45 35 54 45 39 21 low w. 45 35 49 45 30 25 45 20 2 63 1 44 63 27 29 53 1 50 64 2 63 57 44 61 17 5 61 23 36 61 29 54 61 31 40 61 15 33 61 2 58 60 35 36 60 24 56 60 18 3 60 21 18 60 32 25 60 24 50 60 17 16 60 7 22 59 57 4 59 45 50 59 40 18 59 49 58 59 47 3 60 5 3 59 57 15 60 41 60 45 50 60 48 39 60 52 4 AUTBonrriBB. 61 1 11 01 3 7 01 1 I 52 The Surveysby Admiral H.W. Bayfield,1827-60.and Command- er Olebar, R.N. d8 POSITIONS OF PLACES w^ NOTES. 1. GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE.— Among the difficulties of the navigation in tho Oulf of St. Lawrence are the fogs and ices. In spring, the entrance and eastern parts of the gulf are frequently covered with ice, ana vessels are sometimes beset for many days. Being unfitted for contending with this danger, they often suffer tram it, and are occasionally lost ; but all danger from ice, is far less than that which arises from the prevalence of fogs ; these may occur at any time during the open or navigable season, but are most frequent in the early part of summer ; tney ?.▼«' rare, and never of long continuance, during westerly winds, but seldom fail to accompany an easterly wind of any strength or duration. This observation is, however, subject to restriction, according to locality or season. Thus winds between the South and West, which are usually clear weather winds above Anticosti, are frequently accom- panied with fog in the eastern parts of the gulf. Wiiids between the South and East are almost always accompaniea with rain and fog in everypart. E.N.E. winds above Cape de Monts, at the mouth of the river, are often E.S.E. or S.E. winds in the gulf, bemg changed in direction by the high lands of the South coaut, and have, therefore, in veneral me same foggy character. This is said of winds of considerable strengtii and duration, and which may extend over great distances. Moderate and partial fine weather winds may occur without fog at any season, and in any locality. In the early part of the navigable season, especially in the months of April and May, with clear weather, N.E. winds are of frequent occurrence, and they sometimes occur at other seasons, and ui every part of the gulf and river. The fogs sometimes last several days in succession, and to a vessel either running up or beating down, during their continuance, there is no safe guide but the constant use of the deep-sea lead, with a chart containing coirect soundings. Thefoga which accompany eaaterly galea extend high up into the atmosphere, and cannot be looked over from any part of the rigging of a ship. They, however, are not so thick as those which occur in calms after a strong vdnd, and which are often so dense as to conceal a vessel within hail ; whilst the former frequently admit the land or other objects to be distinguished at the distance of half a mile or itioro, in the day time. The denaefbffa which occur in calms, and even in very light winds, often extend only to small elevations above the sea ; ho that it sometimes happens, when objects are hidden at the distance of fifty yards from the deck, they can dc plainly seen ny a person 50 or 60 feet up the rigging. In the months of October and November, the logs and rain that accompany easterly gales, are replaced by thick snow, which cauttcs equul embarrassment to the navigator. — Admiral Jiayfield, 2. The Island of St. Paul lies N. 52° E., true, 10 miles from Cape North) it is about 1 \ miles in length from North to South, and inclining to the eastward at the North end. Its average breadth is about a quarter of a mile. The margin iti rocky and precipitouM almost all ronnd, indented on the North-enst and North-wcat sides by two coves, in both of whii-t. .tiford shelter during the prevalence of certain winds. The cove on the N. W. affords a small and bold beach, about 1 50 feet lon^, where a landing may be effected, but generally with difficulty, by reason of the continual swell of the sea. There is good anchorage all round the island, and close in-shore, which circumstance enables vessels to lie there with any winds, by shifting their stations as the wind and weather require. Tlie current runs generally about 4 miles an hour, and nearly S.8.K. St. Poul's lias been noted for the great number of wrecks which have l»een found on itM shuix's, arining from the frequiMit fogs und tempeHtuoiiN weutlior, the uncertain eurrcntH, and abrupt nature of its coast, &'c. : but on this island are now two light- houses, one near its northern, and the other near its southern extremity; of which, one will always be open, unless to a voiwel near the central rocks. The northern light, brilliant and fixed, is about 130 feet above the level of the sea ) it can be seen to the southward on any bearing excepting between N. bv E. ond E. by N., when it Ih oWurod by the hillH to the southward of it. The Houtnem light may be soni POSITIONS OF PLACES. 99 navigation in tho ance and eastern metimes beset for r often Buffer firom thui that which uring the open or er ; they t»T»' rare, fail to accompany I, however, suoject een the South and frequently accom- he South and East .N.E. winds above winds in the gulf; nd have, therefore, laiderable streneth ite and partial fine r locality. In the ril and May, with rametimes occur at he atmosphere, and rhey, however, are md which are often lequently admit the UUe or U'or?, in the ch have been found thor, the uncertain are now two lij^ht- trcmity; of which, ks. The northern the sea > it con be jnd E. by N., when liKht nuiy bt' hc(ii from the nortiiward on any beating except between S.^.B. atid Went, when it is obscured by the hills to the northwurd of it. Ran^ of light from each tower, six leagues. Boats to render assistance, and guns for signals. 3. The Magdalen l!3LANDS.^-These islands have been surveyed bv ZieutenatU P. E. ColUtu, in 1833, and a beautiful chart of them has been published by the Admiralty. They form an irreg^ar group, and are named respectively^ Entry Island, Amhertt, Orindatone, Alright, Wolfe, Oroaae, and Cojtn lalanat ; ezclusive of Bryon or Cron Itland, and the Bird Islets, which lie more to the North. Of these, Amhertt is the most southern and principal island, but Entry Island is the highest, and is 560 feet above the sea ; visible from 8 to 9 leagues off. It often happens, ftom. the prevalence of westerly gales, in the &U of the year, that ships bound to Quebec, after entering the gul^ have been driven out again, or they have contended until their crews were worn out, and have gone to the low ports for carpfoes, when, by taking an anchorage, they would have secured their passage. These islands may be approached, generally, by the lead, to 7 fathoms of water. Bryon or Cross Island.— The North side has steep cliflPs of red sandstone, f^m j which reefs extend 2 or 3 miles. Approach no nearer than in 8 fathoms. On 'Jtho South side there is good shelter, with North and West winds, in 6 fathoms, sa^y I bottom, the East end of the island bearing E. by S., and the reef to the westwaM I beaiing West. In this road is a strong underset, which makes a ship at her anchors, I roll heavily. These islands are ftilly described in the British American Navigator, pp. 87 — 89. 4. Anticosti. — ^This island, with one exception, has no bay or harbour capable of affording shelter to shipping in ^neral : it is uncultivated ; yet, rude ana un- I hospitable as its aspect may he, it is not absolutely unprovided with the means of I succouring the distress of such as suffer shipwreck on its coasts, there being govem- Iment agents who reside upon it, (and, with the lighthouse keepers, are uie sole linhabittuits,) at different stations, all the year, furnished with provisionb for the use ■of those who have the misfortune to need them. Boards are placed in difierent parts, Idescribing the distance and direction to these friendly spots ; these establishments were {first made in the year 1809. " One of these provision posts is at two leagues to the S.E. from the West end of Ithe island, in Ellis s Cove or Grand Bay i the second at the lighthouse at the S.W. ■point ; the ^ird at Shallop Creek, otherwise called Jupiter River ; and the fourth at ' ■the eastern lighthouse on Heath Point." The South shore of the island is dangerous t but, to modify its character, four bca- onshave been erected — 1. With a BmalT triangidar head, 40 feet high, on the South point. 2. At PaviUon River, large triangle, with cross over. 3. Six miles East of ^alt Lake Bay, large triangular head. 4. On Cape St. Mary, with a cross (18dl). 5. LABRADOR. — The Descriptions and Directions by Captain Bayfield, of jthis hitherto but little-known region, are given in the " British American Nangator," p. 91, &c. 6. — QUEBEC. — In the early editions of this work, the longitude of Quebec was &ted to be 71° 10', " according to the observations of M. le Marquis de Lotbinidrc, . B(dard, Director of the Seminarv of St. Louis, and Captain Holland, M. Mechain tomputcd tho longitude to be 71° 10', bv several eclipses of Jupiter's first satellite, pbHorvcd by Messrs. Lotbini^rc and Holland; and the passasre of Venus that Captain Holland observed in 1760. All the observations, made at different times, have given pery coherent results." — Vide American IVans., vol. i., &c. The almvo passage, from " Analysis of a General Chart," &o., Paris, 1786, showi nc position in which Quebec was laid down in the Charts j and it agreed with that Hvcn in tho " Connaissance des Tcnis." But Quobec was afterwards exhluiteu con- nucrabiy more to the castword. Mr. Wright, in his chart of 1807, made it 70" 27'. Tho Hpquisitc Tables, of 1802, gave latitude 40-48' 38 , longitude 71' fi' 22'. Colonel 1)ouclHi.'! Island i Lighth(jU';r j hto!f mill' from S. poiu* Cape '''ourcliu, near Yar- mox.lh ; Li«,-hthouBe .... Bi-yei'sb'.irdj Liplithouse Point Prim ; Lii^htlio. (En- trance of An '.^[ioUb Basin) BlackRockPo). ; Lightho. Horton Bluil'; li-jhtliouse Partridge Island Liffht, in the Mines Channel .... iJk.T. N. 44 aV 44 44 38 34 44 39 38 44 34 20 44 27 44 20 44 15 40 i'i ^? LOW. W. T AlTTHORrmS. Capo Chfj^Aecto •OfEW BRUNSWICK. / Cape EnragS; if iigh< house I Quako Head] Lighthouse I Partridge Island ; Lightho. I City of St. John \ Point Leprciu; Lighthouse 4a i>7 b 43 37 31 •13 26 54 43 24 15 43 23 34 43 47 30 44 14 57 44 40 50 45 10 48 45 6 15 43 45 23 22 45 36 45 19 36 45 14 2 45 15 30 45 3 uO 63 17 23 63 2i 35 63 35 S5 63 58 48 64 18 64 7 >yl 17 2 bt 34 32 '^i 36 :>i! m 43 aa 65 )7 2 65 29 11 65 23 48 66 1 50 66 10 18 66^3 2 65 ;.7 49 64 48 30 64 2 30 64 8 30 64 51 18 64 47 to 65 22 34 66 4 66 4 18 66 27 33 The surveys by Admiral .Bot field 1853. Thenarviiv made nyMr. Jospph F. W. 3)tt Barres,"ir;j, with rubsequcut 'vmendations. V*.;. ■1! The surveys by Cot/ mander Shortland, R.N., Admii-ai Bay- field &c. i-f'^r., .ti -_■)•:■ ■•■: ■ Licuts. Harding and Kort- Wright, R.N. NOTES. H.n/i<^ 1. S.\BLE Island. — On this islanc'^ '\cre is an establiHhmcnt f ■^ *iu \.l of ahip-wrceked mariners. — Nova Scotia J . The establishment was fov> v.:' >' 1803, by the Provincial Legislature ot Nc'\. - otia, at the rccommcndat> .?.• oi 't)j late Sir John Wentworth, then Lieutenant-Uovemor ) and has since proved iV, v&eans of savinir many lives. To the annual grant is now added an equal sum fri-vv :. : 'impe- rial Oovernmont. " The house occupied by the superintendent stands on the North sidr m POSITIONS OV PLACES. 63 by Admiral Bay [arding and Kort- ftithoma from the West end of fhe Oraarjr Sand Hills, ir 1803. N6av.it is the W«tt Flamtaff i the Em 1- to 3 fecit deep. TJte 'ih':)r^h established, and used to communicate with the island, by any vessel visitink o: -x^saing, are explained in the Colombian Navigator, 1832, vol. i. pi xviii. ?' mvg n^ a^n>be island is red, white, and blue, horizontally. A gan find, par- acuiar}^ ''\ Juaiy weather, will draw the attention of the inhabitants, . 2. NOVA SCOTIA.— The coasts of Nova Scotia have been heretofore laid down fix)m the surveys of Mr. Des Barres, with emendations by Mr. A. Lockwood, R.N., and various corrections in position by Admiral Owen and others. Since the oomple- finr. of the «v rvey of the Canadian coasts, our Admiralty Surveyors, Admirals Bayfield and J. W. Owen, with Captains Shortland and Orlebar, have been proceeding with the k^-i>xainination of the S.E. shores of Nova Scotia, and those of part of the Bay of vmdy, the results of which, as fiir West as Halifax, as shewn in the table. -We have noticed, in a former work, that the bulk and price of the diowy work of M. Des Barres, never suffered it to come into general use ; and, oonsemiently, the new names which he assigned to different points and places have remainea generally unknown. Mr. Lockwood says, — " The original names of the places are restored, by which only they are known to the inhabitants and fishermen. M. Des Barres, xc aLtaching to them the names of noblemen, and men of power, has made his charts of I less value ; and, in one or two instances, has created serious blunders. Inquire of the people of Jedore for Port Egmont, or those of Sheet Harbour for Port North, they know them not ; nor would they ever be induced to adopt them. Jestico, a harsht unpleasant, and unmeaning name, is preferred to Port Hood, although the latter is [more pleasing to the ear, and pronounced and recollected with ease : all attemptb to I change the rude Indian names for others of a finer texture have fiuled ; even New jjenisalem and Acadia have expii-ed. " This complaint was also repeated by French I authors. In till ii^tlflmnmBjTiowever, the name Port Howe is made to supersede I Raspberry Harbour. 3. Halifax. — ^In foimer editions of this work the following appears : — " The Iktitude of the Naval Yard of Halifax, " " lofficcrs of H.M.S. Niemen, in 1822,\va8 ' laltitudes with the artificial horizon, noon at small intervals ; the mean true altitudes being computed from the hour tngles. The longitude, 63" 33' 43 ", wus olxalned as the mean ref^ult of more than 30 ^%t8 of lunar distances. We formerly gave the longitude of M. pes Barres, &c., as f33° 32' 40', and therefore presume that a stateiiient of 63" 37' 48", which has lately api)eared, is 4' too far West." Cuytnm Bayfield, as above stated, assumed the longitude of the Dockyard, in his kurvey to be 63° 37' 48 '. The late Admiral W. F. Owen, in H.M.S. ship " Columbia," ^n 1844, made it 63' 35' 28 " W. The late respectrrl Lieut. Eaper, takes it as a second- lirj- meridian as 63" 37' 26", or, as Captain Baytifc^ 3asTe.>' longit'ido i»» as near the truth, acci [Icntally perhaps, as that ren* ' .lig from the rt '. t-^d operations of Admiral Bayfield, imeau between thu two r '"uons being that wli'ch must now be adopted. In the determination of Uiis, and of other longitudes, the 7 icotrio Te^cgrapn ^as lecided the question beyond controversy. The difference '>f longitude between Cambridge Observatory, Massachusetts, and Btof Halifax ■ \>okyara, has oee?' determined, electrically, by Professor Bond, and to be 0'' 30™ 9" in time, or 7=" 32 23 "-45 in ti. . This meriil- as shewn iu the lote, or 7 ' ' 7' 58 '" 66 \ moke-? Halifax Dockyard Observatorv to \hi in 63" 85 36'* W. paptain Shortland, R.l'j i! diuerence applied to the dctemtined longitude of Cambridge, B, or 7 ' " 7' 58 66", make-? Halifax Dockyard Observatory to \ki i Oi"eenwich. •-^xX' \f. ;.'C ""^c^..H- C*--' ,A jl.A-ww / M POSITIONS OF PLACES i. ScAli IsiiAifD. — ''M. Dm Banes places tho southernmost point of the soathem Seal Isle in lat. 43' 25' 25% and Ion. 66° 0' 35 ". Later charts have itin lat. 43° 26' 35" ; but our correspondent, Lieut. Hare, gave the latitude of tJie South point 43° 22' 23", tit four tmlet mor« to the totUhward. This result, since confirmed, will account for so many ships having been je»xlj cast away, on coming out of the Bay of Fundy. A Tery strong in-draught, ooth on the ebb and flood, sets toward the isles, and m the viomity, equal to 4 V^ots an hour, and they should ttot be approached without a com- numdii^ IrMxe" VAHUTIONS OF THE COMPASS— 1861. At Sable Island, 21° 40' W. ; at Cape Canso, 22° 30' W. 5 at Coi ' 40' W. ; at Indian Bay, 20° 35' 5 Mane et Joseph Bay, 20" 40' W. ; at "Sheet Har- 30' W. 5 at Country Harbour' 21° 40' W. ; at Indian Bay, 20° 35' ; Marie et Joseph Bay, 20" 40' W. ; at Sheet Har- bour, 20° 15' W, J at Jedore Head, 20° 10' W. } at Halifax, 19° 36' W. ; at Liverpool Bay, 18° 0' W. j Cape Boseway, 17° 0' W. j Cape Sable, 16° 6' W. ; Basin of Mines, aC^C W. ; St. John's, New Brunswick, 18° 6' W. ; Great Manan Island, 17° 0' W. 15. THE UNITED STATES. /^ Maine. I Fassamaquoddy Bay; Light y on Quoddy Heaa \Little Blver ; Light at ent. Machias Seal Islands ; Lightho. on E.one(Brit.) Machias Bay } Light on libby Island / Moose a-bec or Moose peak ; Mistake Island Li«it . . Petit Manan) Lighuiouse on S. end Mount Desert Island; Station at S.E. end Mount Desert Bock; Light. Isle auHaut ; Light on sad- dle Back Islet Matinicus Rock ; Lightho. Penobscot Bat; PUigged Mountain on W. side . . {Owls Head Lightho. Manheganlsland; Li^tho. Gape Small ; Station 5 miles North of Cape . . Portland Head; Lightho. Cape Elizabeth ; E. Light Fletcher's Neck; Light on Wood Island Cape Porpoise Harbour ; Light on Goat Island . . Cape Neddook ; Station . . York Harbour; Light on Boon Island New Ham?8HIKE= Ag^menticus Hill ; station on summit LAT. V. 44 49 44 39 22 44 30 44 30 4 44 28 62 44 22 43 69 30 41 1 47 43 61 16 44 12 44 44 6 10 43 46 16 43 46 42 43 27 22 43 36 66 43 27 23 43 20 43 10 1 43 7 15 43 13 23 LON. W. AVTHOBITIEfl. 66 57 67 10 35 67- 5 30 67 21 12 67 31 43 67 52 68 4 41 68 3 49 68 47 58 69 9 12 69 69 69 18 26 69 60 64 70 12 38 70 12 10 70 19 54 70 28 14 70 36 7 70 28 44 70 41 41 The surveys by S. Holland, Esq., with subsequent correc- tions. The Trianoulation modr for the United States' Coast Survey, imder the superinten- donce of Professor A. D. Bachb. *»* The Stations of tho pri- mary triangulation aro distin-' guished by small capitals. "iife^'ifffiS^*/- POSITIONS OF PLACES W THE UNITED STATES— Coktotobd. S. Holland, uent correc- LAT. K. Portsmouth Har. ; Whales Back Light Isles of Shoals ; Station near Ho^ Island harbour ; White Is. Lightho. Massachusetts. Newbury Port ; East Light on Plum Island Cape Ann ; N, Light on Thatcher Island ) Light on E. point - . Baker's Island ; Lignthouse Marblehead ; Light at Ent. Nahant ; Hotel BOSTON} State House[l] < ; Cunard Wharf j Flagstaff CAMBRIDGE Observa- tory Dome [2] Boston Bay; Light on Lit- tle Brewster Island .... jMinot's Ledge ; Light Scituate ; UnitarianChurch Plymouth Harbour; Pier Head Sandwich ; Church Spi):« . . Barnstaple; Beach Point Light Billinsgate Point Lightho. Cape Cod; Provincetown, Orthodox Church Spire :Race Point; Light. ; Highlands Lightho. ; Nausett centime Light Monomoy Island ; Light at S. end Nantucke"" Island; Cltff W. of Harbour • ; S. towered Church ; Light on Great or N.E. Point .. • ; Sankaty Head Light ; Tuckanuck ; Tele- graph atW. end Davis South shoal, Light- vessel, about Muskeget Island ; N.E. pt. Martha's Vineyard; Cape Poge Lighthouse — ; Edgartown ; Spire ■ ; Hounes' Hole ; spire — jWestChov, North point Light — — i Inbiaj? Hill on N.W. side LON .W. 43 3 30 42 59 13 42 59 42 48 25 42 38 19 42 34 47 42 32 10 42 30 18 42 25 7 42 21 28 42 21 48 42 22 51 42 19 39 42 16 9 42 11 59 41 58 44 41 45 26 41 43 19 41 61 37 42 3^ 2 42 3 42 42 2 21 41 51 36 41 33 33 41 17 33 41 16 54 41 23 22 41 16 15 41 18 12 40 56 30 41 20 12 41 2.: ; 41 2" 41 27 -3 41 2S 55 41 %- H 41 20 /4 AUTHOKITAS. 70 42 3 70 37 4 70 37 39 70 49 15 70 34 39 70 40 28 70 47 25 70 61 5 70 64 34 71 4 6 71 2 40 71 7 58 70 63 40 70 45 48 70 46 36 70 39 27 70 30 14 70 17 7 70 4 34 70 11 31 70 14 51 70 3 63 69 67 18 69 69 53 70 7 7 70 6 1! 70 2 69 69 68 10 70 15 13 69 52 70 18 13 70 27 20 70 31 20 70 36 34 70 36 26 70 40 56 ■70 80 23 K The Great Triangulation made fur the United States' Coast Survey, under the su- perintendance of Professo^A.D. Bache. i_k I ti?f;>*T/ *»* For the puiposos of the Survey, the coast of the United States is divided into eleven sec- tions, (nine of which are on the Atlantic Coast) in p2\ of which the work is carried on simultaneously, the Survey being in different stages of progress in the several sections. Those several sections are defined as follows: — Poction I. From Pas- samaquoddy Bay to Point Judith. Section II. From Point Judith to Cape Henlopen. Section m. From Cape Henlopen tc Cape Henry. Section iV. From Cape Henry to Cape Fear. Section V. From Cape Fear to the St. Mary's River. Section VI. iVom the St. Mary's River to St. Joseph's Bay. Section VII. From St Jo- seph's Bay to Mobile Bay. Section VIII. From Mobile Bay to Ver- milion Bay. Section IX. From Vermilion Bay to the Rio Qrando. Section X. Coast of CaUfbmia, San Diego Bay, to 42nd panllel. Section XI. Coast of Oregon, 4'2nd to 49th paiullel. The Tables give the latitudes and lon^j^tudes of ^no trigonometrical points in each section. The manner in i^hich thesa data have been obtain- ed may bo briefly explained here. •i Ml'"-J^4L M POSITIONS OF PLACES THE UNITED STATES— Continubd. No Man's Land; Station on centre Cuttyhunk; Light on S.W. Point Nashon Island ; station . . Nobska LigLthonse Mattapoiset ; Lt. on Ned's Point New Bedford ; Fort Secoimet Point , East Bock Rhode Island. Newport ; Spiie 5 Beaver Tail Light Quaker Hill, near N. f^v^ Bristol ; Court House . . . Providence ; Unitarian Cii. Point Juditii; Lighthoti>:e Block Id. ; Lighten N. point ; BeaconHill at 3. end Watch Hill ; Lighthouse . . Connecticut and New YOEK. Long Island Sound MontaukPoint; Lightho. Plum Id. Lighthouse . . New London; Presbyte- rian Church spire. . . . ConnecticutRiver, Light on Savbrook Point . . Falknei's IsIandLightho. Newhaven ; EpiscopaiCh. • ; Light 41 29 23 70 44 48 41 30 oJ 70 39 36 41 39 1 70 48 1 41 37 25 70 54 25 11 27 2 71 11 63 41 29 12 71 19 6 41 26 54 71 24 15 41 34 55 71 15 31 41 40 10 71 16 46 41 29 26 71 24 35 41 21 28 71 29 10 41 13 27 71 34 48 41 10 30 71 36 27 41 18 12 71 61 48 1 41 4 13 71 61 42 41 10 24 72 12 58 41 21 16 72 6 5 41 16 15 70 20 52 41 12 41 72 39 30 41 18 11 72 65 49 41 14 54 72 54 5^ 41 & 5 73 6 29 40 48 17 73 47 36 40 51 55 TS 44 : 40 67 12 .3 23 51 40 58 34 73 7 24 41 6 72 26 51 40 51 7i: 30 36 40 37 53 73 12 61 40 42 43 74 39 40 42 2 73 69 6 40 27 39 74 24 40 23 42 73 59 25 39 45 49 74 6 41 39 30 48 ay 22 U 38 66 60 AVTHOIUTIES. 74 18 12 74 25 36 74 67 61 The Great Trianoulation lie for the United Sates' OoAST Survey, under the su- e^rintendance of Professor A.D. ACHE. ■>^-n In each section a base Ime of ^m five to ten miles in length is measured with all possible accu- racy. A series of triangles, deri- ving the length of their sides from this base, is then establiahed along the coast, by the measnreiuent of the angles between the intervis- ible stations. In this primary series the triangles are made as large as the natiuw of the country will permit, because the liability to errorincreases with the numbw of triangles. On the bases furnished by the sides of the primary triangles, a secondary tnangulation is next e'-tablished extending along the cop.st, and over the smaller bays and ^ unds, and determining a largi umber of ])oints at distan- ces ol t few miles tipart. The distances between the points thus determined, us given m the Tables, are liable t r .in average error r about one foot in six miles, until a final a<]ju8tment betwpfln the base Va«8 shall have oeen tiiade. \^s, on the completion of the pri- y triingulat^on in each section, ;ev al series form one con- u'cted lain, the diffei-ent baaei iiiford verifications of each other, and of the triangulation connect- ing them. The first three sections I are thus connected at present. Little POSITIONS OF PLAGB8. THE UNITED STATES— Conti. an. 07 IBS. lANQULATlON riTED Sates' mder the bu- *rofe88or A.D. a. a base line of ilea in length is U possible accu- P triangles, deri- ; their sides from istablished along le measuieiuent reen the intervis- [n this primary 'les are made as :e of the country .use the liability with the numbor himished by the ary triangles, a ;uiation is next iding along the the smaller bays , determining « points at distan- apart. etweentbe points as given m the Le t f an average fool insix nJlefi, itment betwron lall have oeen pletionofthepri- i in each section, form one con- 1 diffei-ent bases 1 of each other, _ation connect- Bt three sectioM I at present. IiA"f N. Delaware Bar and Biver ; Egg Islana Lighthouse Cohonsey Lighthouae .... Fhilaoelphu; QirardCol- lege ; Navy Yard .... Delaware. Wilmington ; Light at Christiania River Bombay Hook ; Lightho. Cape Henlopen; High Lighthouse Indifua BiVer ; Salt Works ... ViBOINIA. Assateague 7'i. ; Lightho. at Southenu Hog Island; Lighthouse at South end Cape Charles; Li^^^hthouse Chesapeake Bay Sandt Point; station on E, side Tangieb Island; sta- tion on t;. "^ide Sharp(;'sleiian< Lightho. Baltunore ; Le retto . , WASHINGTU ; Cap- itol Dome : 5 National Obs' •-< '^4] Potomac Biver ; biiiiii''s Point Light Cape Henry; Lighthouse NOBTH CaBOLINA. Entrance to Pamlico Sound; Body Island Light Stevenson's Point; North side Albemarle Soundfd] Cape Hatteras ; high Light. ; Extremi^ Ocracoke Inlet ; Light on West end of Island Cape Lookout) Lighthouse ^{ Extremity Beaufort Inlet; S. Light near Fort Macon Bogue Inlet ; Entr., about Cape Fear Biver; Light on Federal Point Cap Fear ; Lighthouse on Bald Head — ; ■ ; South Extreme. . Little River j Entrance South Cabolina. George Town; Light at Entrance of Pedce River LOW. w. 39 10 31 39 20 18 39 58 23 39 65 47 39 43 16 39 21 46 38 46 38 38 35 36 87 64 87 37 23 18 37 7 48 37 88 38 37 47 64 :j« ;;7 44 :5" 16 39 38 63 20 38 63 39 '7 63 14 56 29 36 47 21 36 6 18 36 15 11 85 14 50 35 6 31 34 37 20 34 31 60 31 41 43 34 38 33 68 4 33 62 18 33 49 66 33 41 33 13 31 75 8 37 75 21 45 75 10 30 76 8 50 75 81 32 76 30 65 75 5 19 75 8 60 75 21 40 75 42 12 75 52 48 76 66 64 75 69 32 76 22 31 76 35 14 AVTBOjosaa. 77 77 51 3 23 76 14 34 76 48 76 31 20 76 10 43 76 30 33 75 30 40 75 58 28 76 30 41 76 31 10 76 40 ) 77 6 77 64 53 77 59 49 77 67 30 78 34 -W 79 6 44 Hie Great Triamoulatiov made for the United States' Coast Surybt, under the sa- Sirintendenoe of Profeasopr A. D. ACHE. ^ %^kh^ ■«■#■<; a.ii-. ae POSITIONS OF PLACB6. THB UNITED STATES.—CtoNWHUBD. Cape Bomain; light on Raccoon Key Ball's Bay) (Uefiige liar- bonr) Light at N. end of Bull's Island Charleston ; Lighthouse on Morrislsland, at W. Ent. 5 St. Michael's Ch.[5] North Edisto Biver ; East end of Base Une 1| miles W. of Entrance St. Helena Sound ( Light- ship at Entrance Savannah Biver ; Tybee Lighthouse Savannah; Exchange Spire Sapclo Bar ; Blackbeard Island, East Point .,. . St. Simon's Sound ; Light- house on N. side St. Andrew's Sound ; Light on Little Cumberland Id. Florida. St. Mary's Biver ; Light on N. end of Amelia Island Femandina; Railroadwharf St. John's Biver ; Light- house [6] St. Augustine Inlet ; Light on Anastasia Island. . . . Cape Canaveral ; Light. . . Jupiter Inlet ;' Lighthouse Cape Florida ;', Lighthouse on Biscayne^Key . .[7] Florida Beefs f Lighthouse near Coffin's Patches . J Sand Key Lightho. Key West J Lt. on S.W.pt. 5 Tifts Observatory Marquesas } S.E. point . . Dry Tortugas ; Lighthouse on Bush Key Cape Sable ; Fort Poinsett Cape Bomano Sauibel Island, East .... Tampa Bay ; Egmont Key Lighthouse Anclote Keys ; Inlet .... Cedar Keys ; Lighthouse on Seahorac Key St. Marks Harbour Light. Dog Id. ; Lt. near W. end Cii])e St. George ; Lightho. ■ Cape St. Bias; Lighthouse Pcusacola Bay ; Lighthouse LAT. M. S3 1 4 32 55 42 32 S2 33 32 41 55 46 33 83 17 24 44 32 32 31 31 30 30 30 30 29 28 26 25 24 24 24 24 24 24 25 25 26 27 28 29 30 29 29 29 30 1 21 4 53 LOK. o ' « 79 17 5 79 30 S3 79 52 29 79 55 38 60 13 20 80 21 31 80 50 33 81 5 14 AUTHOaiTUU. 30 10 81 16 3 46 81 32 29 6i 32 81 32 25 39 26 40 17 81 30 54 81 27 42 21 42 81 27 30 50 48 27 55 26 81 19 11 80 33 80 5 5 41 80 3 37 46 26 30 32 32 33 31 32 54 81 6 43 81 51 12 81 49 20 81 47 82 5 32 37 20 6 51 27 30 82 53 40 81 9 81 57 82 10 36 17 82 45 45 82 54 6 45 4 24 46 36 10 41 41 83 4 50 84 10 37 84 34 42 , 84 58 38 85 24 -34 19 87 17 24 The Great Tbianovlation made for the United States' Coast Survey, under the su- Sirintendence of Professor A.D. AOHE. POSITIONS OF PLACES. THE UNITED STATES^^-CoirnKDaD. ee Alabama. Mobile Point} Fort Mor- gan [81 Dauphin Island; Westena Station of base Mobile ; Episcopal Spire. . Horn Island ; East Point . . Mississippi & Louisiana. Ship Island { Lighthouse on W. point Chandeleur Island; Light- house on North Point . . Entrance of the Mississippi ; PassiLoutre Lighthouse ; S.W.PassLightho. New Obleans ; City of [9] TimbaUier Bay t Light- house on W. side of Ent. AtchafiEilaya Bay; Point au Per Sabine Biver ; Lightho. on Brant Point , Texas. Galveston Bay; Lighthouse on Bolivar Point ...... Galveston ; Court House. . : Matagorda Island; Light- house on E. Point I Aransas Pass ; Lightho. on North side I Brazos Santiago ; Lightho. on Isabel Point ■LhX. H. LOW. tr. 30 13 48 88 25 30 14 27 30 41 26 30 13 21 88 13 53 88 1 29 88 30 58 30 12 55 88 57 1 30 8 22 88 51 49 29 6 36 28 58 38 89 1 30 89 21 29 57 30 90 2 18 29 4 90 16 80 29 19 30 91 S3 29 43 55 93 50 19 29 22 35 29 18 14 94 45 40 94 46 33 28 20 58 96 23 57 27 23 53 96 56 30 26 4 52 97 11 4 AinuoBrruB. The Great Tbiangulation made for the United States' Coast Subvet, under the su- E3rintendance of Professor A.D. ACHE. NOTES. GENERAL NOTE.— In the year 1807, the United States' Legislature determined lupon the survey of the coast. Tms was not properly commenced until 1817, when iBome base lines were measured, and triangles taken. In 1832 the operations were iresumed, under its original superintendent, Mr. F. R. Haaaler. In 1842, a plan was drawn up by Congress for its further organization, imder vhich it has smce continued under the able superintendance of Professor A. D, lache. In the conduction of this extensive survey, every refinement and appliance 9 ensure accuracy is employed, and many new and importjEint discoveries in geodetic science have been made. The latitudes and longitudes of the points between Mount Desert Island, in Maine, iind the Chesapeake, are connected together in the triangulation. South of this, the burvey has only been carried on in detached portions, as stated in the respective notes, nd their points given are dependent on the accuracy of the position of the primary tation in each section. . As shown in the Note on page (53 the whole of the coasts of the United States, is ivided into eleven sections, of A^Iiich two are composed of the Pacific Coasts, and the 70 POSITIONS OP PLACES. geograpUo oonnezioii between AmeruA and the rest of the world, is mainly depend- ant on the ■poeiifan. of the Obaervatory of Cambridge near Boston. The positions given are taken from a list of nearly 4,000 points, established in the ooiirse of the survey, as published in 1851-3, with a slight subsequent correction. But each place may now be taken by the mariner as absolutely accurate, as the amount of probable error is so small, as to be totally beyond his means of detecting. There- fore each lighthouse, cape, &c., will equally well serve to correct his reckoning, or ra^e his chronometer, as the primary observatory. 1. BOSTON. — ^Dr. Bowditch, from six astronomic observations, viz., two transits and four tolar eclipses, made the longitude of Boston as 4i> 44' 16" .6 ; and it was the opinion of Dr. Bowditch that this longitude was more accurately ascertained than tnat of any other place in the United States. The State of Massachusetts was surveyed trigonometrically, by Simeon Borden, and Robert Treat Payne^ Esqrs., and the survey was based on the pobitiou of Boston State House. " From observations in 1829 and 1830," says Mr. Borden, " I made the longitude of the Stats House, as 4'' 44' 14 .6' j and by the great solar eclipse, May Idth, 1836, 4>' 44' 19".6 : mean of the whole, 71° 4' 13".5, or only/8" more than in the Table. The latitude deduced an 42° 21' 22".7, was from 636 observations. 2. Cambridoz Obsebvatout. — ^The longitude of the' Observatory of Cambridge near Boston, is the primary meridian of the greater portion of N.W. America, inas- much as the longitudes of most other places have been referred to it by trianfilation, or by electric signal. Its relation to Greenwich has also employed years of assiduom 7ibour and consummate skill, and may now be considered as entirely estabUshed, within probably an insignificant amount of error. Prior to the year 1849, the astronomic observations systematically carried on there had resulted in a longitude assumed as 71° 8' 0".0 West of Greenwich. When the positions of the United States' Coast Survey stations were published in 1851, it was assumed as 71° 7' 22".5, from the following data : — Moon culminations at variona observatories referred to Cambridge, 4'> 44'° 28'.4 ; by eclipses and occultations in tlie | same manner, 4'' 44'™ 29'.6, and by chronomelric differences to that date 4*' 44" 30'.1. This latter determination was anerwards assumed by Professor Bond to be very nearly the true longitude. But in 1855, the chronometric operations were again resumed early in January, and the first meridional distance was carried by the steamer America, June 5th, and I the last by the return of the Africa to Boston, October 26th, 1855. 'There were six voyages across the Atlantic, between Boston and Liverpool, and the total number of chronometers used was fifty two, and the final longitude determined is as foUows :- 1 b ' '' Voyagfes from Liverpool to Cambridge 4 32 31.92 Voyages from Cambridge to Liverpool 4 32 31.76 "' Mean 4 32 31.84 Liverpool West of Greenwich 12 0.06 Resulting longitude .... 4 44 31.80 or Cambridge 71* 7' 58''.55 West of Greenwich, which is here assumed. This longitndt I which is 1* 79 in excess of the longitude of 1851, is a very close approximation tt I that established by Dr. Bowditch and Mr. Borden for BoHt«>n as in the previous note, I and is also nearly'identical with that of New York, as obtaii:cdby Mr. ifcnts chrouom-l cters in 1839. For these reasons the result of 1866 has been preferred, ond 36' htij been added to the longitudes given in the cxtcnflivo tables puDlished by the United I States' Coast Survey department in 1851, above alluded to. * I The longitudes in Sections I, II, III, and V, of the United States' ^lurvu^ treu'l {lunuaut on tiiia. 5. NEW YORK.— In th» Ladiea and Oetttleman'ii Diwy, or TN* UUt' A^\ POSITIONS OP PLACES. n 18 mainly depend- manae, fat 1820, Mr. Nash, the Editor, having the repvtatiain of an ezoeUent obfler- ver, gives particulars of a great many meridian and cdrcum-meridional observationa taken at his school, Broadway, New York, from which he infers the latitude of No. 331, Broadway, as 40° 42' 58'. The difference of latitude, trigonometrically found, between Mr. Nash's and the City Hall, was somewhat less than 1,300 feet, which, ossumed as 13", nves the latitude of the. City HaU 42° 42' 46', t. e., allowing 40° 42' 58". as the latitime of of No 331, Broadway. By observations of a solfur eclipse, which Dr. Bowden observed at New York, he found the difference of longitude between Greenwich and Colombia College equal to 47° 0' 4d"W. On the 29th of May, 1818, at a few minutes past noon, the longitude of No. 331, Broadway, by the mean of three distances of the sun and moon, appeared to be 74° 0' 42 ", and Mr. Nash adds, '* I am inclined for the present, to place the City Hall in 74° W." By seventy lunar distances, forty of Pollux East, and thir^ of Aldebaran West of the moon, m December, 1822, and January, 1823, Captain Sabine gave the longi* tude of the cupola of Colombia College, New York, as 74° 3' 27", and the latitude which he assigns to it is 40° 42' 43 . Mr. De Witt, on his survey of the province, gave the longitude as 74° 3'. The chronometers of Messrs. Arnold and Dent, however, appear to have decided the longitude of New York. Four of them were embarked m the British Queen steam-vessel, under the care of Captain Roberts, on her first voyage from En^and to America in July and August, 1839, and gained the longitude of the City Hall in New York, as 4-' 66' 3''.35 (=74° 0' 49"). A second expeiiment was made on the next voyage of the some vessel, ia October and November of the same year, by another set of four chronometers, and by this the difference of longitude between the Observatory at Greenwich and the City Hall, New York, appeared to be 4** 56' 0.24". Say 74° 0' 10". M. Daussy, the French Hydrographer, had previously given it in I the Connaiaaance dea Terns as 4>< 56' 0.72, or 74° 0' 11" — (See Atheneeum, Nos. 621 I and 629, September and November, 1839.) By the determination of the United Coast Survey, from data up to 1851, it was I in longitude 74° 0' 3*. 09 ; but, by the subsequent correction of the Cambridge longi- tude as shewn above, it is in 74° 0' 39", as in the Table, very nearly identical with tne I determination of M. Daussy and Mr. Dent 4. WABHiNaTON. — In our former editions, the Dome of the Capitol is placed in llongitudo 77" 0' 20", from the State Survey of 1816. This is shown to oe nearly I correct. Seatom Station in the City of Washington, is the point to which all tolegraphio IdifPerences of longitude ore rofcn-cd, and which have now placed i», in connexion Iwith most of the important places on the coasts of Noi*th West America, and estab- llished beyond controversy, their true relative longitudes. 6. North Carolina. — The longitudes of the coasts South of Cape Henry, at the iChesapeakc, as far as Cape Fear, or Section IV, of the United States Coast Survey, Bre dependant on that of Stevenson's Point, the West point of Little River, on the 'Jorth side of Albemarle Sound. The BaMc line upon wnich the triangulnfion was established, was measured upon Body's iNland, on the Coast of ramlico S(>und, and |the South end of it is near the Lighthouse. The positions arc given, subject to Mura porroctions, both for the longitude of the primary point, and for that of the great ngles not yet obtained. 6. Charleston. — The longitude of Charleston was obtained from Seoton Station, n Washington, by Electric Telegraph, in 1850, by Professor Walker and Lieutenant Hbbcs. Section V. of the United States' Coast Survey system is tlius connect k1 with lie rest of the series, but the triangulution has not yet been extended along tho Roasts of South Carolina. The longitude of Clmrleston Lighthouse now givev is lentionl with that we assumed in former editions luid in the Colombian Navigator '. 1., as obtained by Mr. James Elford, a mathemuticinn of CharU'Hton. 7. Cape Fi^orida, &c. — In 1845, Captain Edward Bamett, F.N., maJo a unning survey of tho Coast of Florida and the adjouent banks. Iv'f longitudes 72 POSITIONS OF PLACES. Tireire found W dfrht dmmometera by meridian distance from Havana, and iu othet portions of tnis region have been found very consistant. He places Cape Florida in longitude 80° 3° " W. as shewn in the Table. But the United States' Surveyors make this position a primary point for the lon- gitudes in Section VI. of the Coast Survey, and they make it, according to their esti- mate of 1861,80° 6'0", and in 1859, 80° 9' 29", or 6|' further West than Captain Bamett. Yet Sand Key is placed by the United States' authorities, in November, 1852, in 8r 52° 43', while Captain Bamett's lon^tude is 81° 51' 12", a difference of only 1^'' We have adhered to the British authority, but it is nncessary to point out the doubt which exists, which will be remedied when this part of the survey shtdl be brought into connexion with the remainder. 8. MoBii r: Fort Morgan, on Mobile Point, is made the primary station of Sec- tions VIII aad IX of the United States' Suivey, or between it and the Mexican fron- tier, llie triangulation is yet very incomplete. 9. New Orleans. — The position of New Orleans is given approxiraatively from the sketch published by the llnited States' Coast Survey. The tnangulation was not entii-ely completed from Mobile. The longitude of New Orleans is of some interest. The United States' Coast Survey has assumed a considerable degree of importance from its extent, and these results being extended lo the other portionH of the territory, render the consideration of a primary meridian for the western world one necessaiy to be determined in the early state of the operations. The capitol of Washington would naturally appear to be the fittest starting point; but as the mtroductiou of greater diversity in astronomic and other tables than at present exists is certainly not desirable, the United States' Survey Department com- missioned Professor Bache to report on the subject. Impressed with the incon^ enience attached to the introduction of a fresh mode of rcckoninp^ meridional distances, and at the same time to give due importance to the geodetical operations carried on in America quite independent of any in t)»' eastern liemisphere, he recommended, if any transatlantic meridian were to bo assumed as a primary, that that of JVeto Orleam wo Jd be the fittest. 'iTie progress of the survey ha\'ing shown that New Orleanc was in Ion. 90° 0' O'l or necriv so, it became manifest that one objection to a new fractional elenieitt being introduced was in so»ne degree removed it this were taken. With this view, if any meridian were to be assumed for the United States, that of 90" We>st of Greenwich, wherever it may fall, is the fittest. If in the course of the operations any correction be found necessary to this meridian, as marked in some pavt of New Orleans, let it bo removed accordingly. Thus, the first meridian of tlie United States, would be one- foui'th of the cii'cumference, or six horns iii time West of that of Green \vi(!h. VARIATIONS OF THE COMPASS— 18G1, The question of Magnetic Variation or Declination, has received much attention fW)m the SuiTcy department under the superintendence of Professor Bache, who, with Mr. J. E. Hilgard, have reported on the subject. The exact observations at present collected, have not been sufficient to establish the exact amount of secular change which is necessary to bring the observed rosult of former years in accordance with the existing Variation. As the amounts given in Professor Bacho's and Mr. Ililgard's tables are for various eiM)ehH between 1844 and I85fl, we have taken tht; secular change at the amounts estimated by Mr. F.J. Evans, R.N., in 185H, and added them to those quoted in the Anierieun list, to bring them down to the epoch 1861. Near Great Manan Island, 170' W. ; Mount Dowrt Island, 15' 0' W. ; West nide of Penobscot Bay, 11.) .'{' W. ; Capo Small, Kennebie llivei, 12' 67' W. ; Portland, Maine, 12" 18' W. ) FU't<;her's Neek, 12" 14' W. j Isles of Shoals, off Portsmouth, ir46'W. ; Ncwbuiv Port. 1 T 0' W. , Annis Squani, near Cape Ann, 12" UN' W; : Miiihlohead, 12° 3H tV.; liuston, Harbour; 11" 0' \V. ; Cr.po Codj \V 2o W. ; Nun- i tucket Island, 10" 30 W. ; Martha's Vine>-ard, 1(» 0' W. ; Point Judith) Pi-ovidencr, POSITIONS OF PLACES. 73 Bhode Island, 10° 2' W. New London, Connecticut, 8° 49' W. ; New Haven, T 33' W. ; New York City, 7° 10' W. ; Sandy Hook, 6° 42' W. ; Girard College, Philadelphia, 6° 2' W. ; Little Egg Harbour, 5° 42' W. ; Cape May, Entrance to Delawnre Bay, 4° 16' W. j Cape Henl^n, 3°67"W. 5 Entrance to Chesapeake Pay, 2° 10' W, ;' Washington City, 2° 0' W. ; (much aflfected by local attraction) ; Albemarle Sound, East part, 14° 6' W. Pamlico Sound, 1° 0' W. 5 Cape Hatteras, 1° 30' W. The line of No Variation intersects the coast to the Westward of Cape Lookout, in about longitude 76° 60' W. To the North-westward of this line, the Westerly Variation is increasing about 3'.6 per annum in the vicinity of Cape Hatteras ; about o.O per anuiuu near New York, and 6'.3 per annum on the Coast of Maine. The lines of eqtial variation run about N.W. and S.E. true on the Coast of Maine; N.W. bv W. ind S.E. by E. about New York, and N.N.W. and SS.E. on the Coast of Carolina and Georgia. At Wilmington and Cape Fear the Easterly Variation is about 1° 0' ; at Cape Romain, Cape Fear, 2° 0' E. ; Charleston, 2°50' E. ; &<. Savannah, 3° 30' E. ; at Darien, 4° 0' E. ; St. Augustine, 4° 15' E. ; Capes Canaveral, and Florida; 4^ 10' and 4° 15' E. ; Cape Sable, Florida, 6° 0' E. ; Key West, 5° 30' E. ; Tampa Bay, 6° 7' E. ; Apal- achuola Bay, 6° 0' E. ; Mobile, 7° 0' E. ; Mouths of the Mississippi, "" "' I Orleans, 7° 46' E, 0.6 per annum. 7° 30'; New Galveston, 9°. These variations are increasing at the rate of 16. THE BEEMUDA ISLANDS. ■Ireland I^^aild ; FlagstaflfTl ] IWreckHiil [2] IOibb's Hill LiouxnovsG, light revolving every minute, (362 feet) ..[3] fount Laiigton ; Signal Station North of the Town of Hamilton .... [ilostle Island ; Entrance of Castle Harbour St. David's Head fort Cunningham ; at the Entrance of St. George's Harbour lill's Breaker ; Eastern Extremity of thclleef. . Iforth llock [ Northern limit of llcef m\a Bi>,r, N.W. end ; the Western Extremity of the Hurroimding Iteef . . |.W. Breaker ; Southern Extremity of Roof .... LAT. N. O I II 32 19 30 32 16 45 32 16 4 32 21 32 22 60 32 23 13 32 23 48 32 30 30 32 16 40 32 13 30 LON. W. 1 If 64 61 40 64 64 40 64 61 36 64 48 12 (v' 40 30 64 38 4S 64 30 37 64 41 64 46 65 66 2 20 64 63 30 AUTHOKIT1B8. The Trigonom- 'rical Survny. by Cip On^cn V — «»rty Kuj of St. Domingo [8] LAT. S. LON. W. a 1 » o > « 22 11 40 22 21 50 22 32 15 22 42 56 22 47 20 22 62 22 58 76 47 17 75 49 39 75 62 60 76 64 46 76 64 76 63 6 76 45 3 22 50 23 7 74 52 74 62 30 23 9 15 23 41 37 23 31 53 23 65 24 37 25 11 15 25 21 26 30 74 45 30 75 20 75 49 21 76 16 76 9 23 76 14 53 76 23 76 39 26 34 76 65,30 25 16 45 25 7 30 78 66 3 77 2 45 25 6 10 26 19 80 77 22 4 78 8 30 26 10 24 24 39 30 24 13 40 24 2 12 78 1 30 77 42 50 77 37 20 77 10 25 25 5 77 65 30 25 49 40 25 37 40 26 2 77 63 45 77 44 79 6 30 25 49 10 25 34 35 25 23 40 79 17 30 79 18 50 79 13 25 14 24 66 30 79 10 79 9 24 22 46 22 22 50 78 M 77 ;j(i 22 10 77 19 22 1 10 21 42 20 75 10 70 44 45 AVTHOBITIXS. The Obsenrations of Captain Richard Owen, B.N., 1831-32. f Bbmabks. A description of, and directions for, these isles andpassages, accor- ding with the New Surveys, are given in the copious Notes pre- fixed to the second volume of the Colombian Navigator, edition of 1848, pages 212, 213. The Surveya of Captain Richard Owen, Captain E. Bar- nett, Lieutenant T. Smith, R.N., &c., 1836—1842. \- 76 POSITIONS OF PLACES. THE BAHAMA AND PASSAGE ISLANDS— CONTINUED. THE PASSAGE IS- LANDS. Little St. Salvador j W. Point St. Salvador ; Colombus or S.E, Point — — ; Hawk's Nest, or S.W. Point — :N.W. Point Conception. T.-^^imd ; S. end Southampton P^ef ; Exty. Rum Kay; S.E. ^liite Cliffe -; West End.... [9] Watlinj»'s Island ; Large Wi 1 Rock at ♦he N.end TK. W. Point Hinchiubroke Rock Samana or / , ood K&ys : East Low -K-ay Westernmost "Reef 5 Ex- tremity Southern Reef Planas or Flat Kays ; Centre Crooked Islands, &c. : The N.E. Breaker .... N.E.Reef;Exut;iuity.. Mount Pisgah Bird Rock, ofifN.W. Pt. Fortune Isle, or Long Kav ; S. Point Castle Isle [10] Miraporvos : • North Rock South Kay ; Sand-hills j Hobart'sBi-eaker's} S.E. I End Dianu, or Monkey Bank ; Centre Mariguana, or Mayaguana ; S.W. Point Eastern End of E. Reef The Caycos : Cape Comet,N.E. Pt.[ll] Large House near the Booby Rocks The Three Maries West CaycoH ; South End T.\r ■ ' ^nciales; N.W.pt. We.'., or Little Cayco; South Point Wcht Siind Spit South Slior.l SwiinmtT Shoal The Hogrtics; N.W.Kuy LAT. N. 24 36 22 24 8 30 24 8 SO 24 41 10 23 48 46 23 65 15 23 38 40 23 39 24 10 15 23 66 27 23 56 40 23 6 23 6 60 23 4 45 22 35 10 22 43 30 22 47 22 44 10 22 61 22 32 22 7 22 7 60 22 5 21 68 30 22 31 22 21 46 22 18 21 42 60 21 21 LON. W. 21 49 21 67 30 37 .^0 52 40 21 37 30 21 22 21 2 21 5 15 21 41 30 76 68 1C 16 48 76 32 30 76 46 30 76 6 76 7 3 74 47 20 74 56 35 74 28 30 74 34 74 28 33 73 30 43 73 52 73 45 73 33 73 47 73 49 45 74 7 33 74 22 15 74 23 74 18 45 74 32 40 74 32 15 74 27 30 74 47 30 73 9 ,30 72 38 16 71 27 S8 7J 41 TI 2 30 71 44 33 72 20 3 72 28 33 72 5 71 44 3;j 71 29 73 6C AUTHORITIES. The Surveys of Captain Richard Owen, R.N., 1831-2. ■ \ , ^}.--i':,i ;.,!• ,„>.f. • The MinAPOBVOs Bank and Kays were surveyed by Mr. De Mavne, in 1827. The Bank is elovoD and a half miles in estent from S.S.E. to N.N.W., and the shoals upon it are very dangerous, porticidarly to those advanciiw from the S.E. With the wind blowing strong from the northward they break heavily, and at all times thore is a heavy swell upon thom. The current genorallv sets from the N.E. over the shoalfl at Uiu rate of 1 mile on hour. o. POSITIONS OF PLACES THE BAHAMA AND PASSAGE ISLANDS.— CoifTiNTJED. 77 3S. of Captain I.N., 1831-2. , ,'.-1--; IV08 Bank and od by Mr. Do Tho Bank is _leB in extent "n.W., and the ery dangerous, lose advancing Tith the wind the northward [and at all times rell upon thorn. :a"y sets from shoalB at the lur. GEEAT InaoUA: The N.W. point.... [12] Middle Point S.W. Point Mathew Town Lantern Head (82 feet high) S.E. Point N.E. Point I Little Inagua ; East Point ; N.W. Point I TuEKs' Islands : Edymion Reef Sand Kay ; Centre Salt Kay ; Centre GrandKay 5 Roadsd. [13] Sqniare Handkerchief ; N.E. detached Breaker S.E. Extremity Western Extremity .... iSiLVEK Kat, or Plate Bank: East End {lO/athoms) . . S.E. Point N.W. Point 5.W. Point [14] Jajo de Navidad, or Ship Bank : Northern Extremity[16] Eastern South-West LAT. N. 21 7 30 21 1 45 20 65 20 58 20 56 30 20 57 45 21 20 30 21 29 15 21 30 40 21 7 15 21 11 12 21 20 21 28 10 21 6 30 20 47 30 20 56 20 35 20 20 13 20 55 20 17 20 20 14 20 2 19 51 50 LON. W. 73 39 30 73 41 7? 39 3 73 39 30 73 19 24 73 9 48 72 69 30 72 66 33 73 4 33 71 18 18 71 14 33 71 12 71 7 30 70 27 20 70 27 70 57 69 21 63 62 35 48 69 66 13 70 63 68 61 18 68 47 33 68 68 16 AVTUOBITIES. Bbhabks. TuBKs' Island Pabsaob. — ^Near the S.E. end or Elbow of the Cay- cos Btmk, is a shoal in lat. 21o 4', Ion. 71° 31' 32", having over it, in some parts, only 6 feet of water, and lying with a bushy kay on the bank bearing N. by W. (by com- pass) 6 or 7 imles. Lat. by meiid. alt. : Ion. by two good chronome- ters, made by Barraud : one giving 71" 31' 6" ; the other, 71° 3!? 0*— Edwd. Dunateiinlle H.M.8. Car- nation.) The Snrvoys of Mr. Anthony De Mayne, &c. ,. >, , ^. . NOTES. . ,-. ,,.,--._ 1. Matanilla Bank. — The Matanilla Bank, to the northward of tho reef, is kot represented in Mr. Do Mayne's Chart, althoiigh given in that of the Spanish sur- rcyors. It has been examined by Captain Edward Banictt, R.N., in 1846, and the ositions corrected accordingly. — See, further, Colombian Navigator, 1848, vol ii. 203. 2. Abaco Liqhthottse. — Of the light-tower near the South end of Abaoo, or j Hole in the Wall,^ the base is 80 feet above liigh water, and the tower is 85 feet Yv;\\. It is painted red and white. The light revolves once in everjr minute, and |uiy be seen m all directions, except where the high parts of the land intervene, and L'ing 160 feet above the level of tho sea, it will l)c visible in clear weather, at the Kstanci! of 15 miles, to an eye elevated 10 iect ; 17 miles to one elevated 20 feetj 19 ]iile8 from 40 feet ; and 21 miles from 80 feet. During ordinary winds there is good anchorage in 10 and 11 fathoms, with tho jflithouHc bearing E. by N. about half a mile from shori-. The edge of the bonk, the eastward of the lighthouse, is nearly If miles from shore, with 23 to 16 kthoms, extending out to the S.S.E. in u tongue of soundings, with quite clear found. — " Colombian Navigator," vol. ii., pp. 199, 201. 3. Eoo Island Reef,— The Lorton Rt-ck clcseribcd in the Colombian Navigator, |»1. ii., p. 162, does not exiat ! Captain KicLard Owen has nhown that thu vessel 78 POSITIONS OF PLACES. really straok on JEgg Island Beef, just to the northward of Ro^^al Inland and not more than amile from GouldingKay. — ^For particulars, see " Colombian Navigator," vol. ii. p. 209. 4. Nassau. — ^The position appears to be finally settled as in the fable. The Spanish Surveyors gave the town as in 26' 4' 33° N., and 77° 19' 30" W. Mr. De Mayne as 25° 6' 18" N., and 77° 19' W. The lighthouse, showmg a harbour light, since improved, and similar to that on Abaco, is 70 feet abo\e the level of the sea; it is on the West end of Hog Island, and therefore to be left on the port or Noi-th side, when entering into the harbour. 5. Great Isaac— .This islet is described in the Colombian Navigator, vol. ii. p. 217. It is moderately high, has several wells of fresh water, and abundance of large shell-fish. The Providence droggers water here. Tt is now remarkable for the very fine iron lighthouse erected on it in 1859; it is 145 feet higii, painted in broad red and white bands, and shows a fine revolving light from reflectors every half minute. 6. Gun Kay.— Tlie important lighthouse on this Kay shows a brilliant revolving light every minute all round the compass, at an elevation of 80 feet, visible 12 to ^u miles off. 7. Diamond Point of the Mucaras. — The Mucaras, Lavanderas, and Lobos, with the dangers on the bank in the vicinity, have been surveved, vrith great care, by Captain Edvoard Barnett, whose positions are those given in the Table. This portion of the bank was formerly represented, as in the Spanish Charts, rather more to the Sotfth, and 6' more to the East. 8. KIat of St. Domingo. — ^The eputhem part of the Great Bank, on which this kay is situate, is very dangerous by night. The kay had formerly the appearance of a sail, but, in 1835, me crew of the Thunder erected a beacon of stones, about 15 feet high, upon the centre of it ; the other part of the kay is about 5 feet only above water. It is a rocky, arid spot, producing nothing but a little samphire and wild grass. — " Colombian Navigator," vol. ii. p. 214. 9. Rum Kat. — This island was formerly very erroneously represented on the charts, both as to magnitude and position. The white cliffs at the S.E. end are re- jnarkable, and may be seen 6 leagues off". — See " Colombian NaAigator", vol ii. p. 228, 10. Castlk Isle. — ^The point appears to be finally settled. Former observatiom | gave 22° 7' 45" N., and 74" 17' 30" W. .; ,. ^ ^ ^ ^ , . ., 11. Caycos. Captain Livingstone's Remarks on the Northern Reefs of the Caycos, aud the danger of approaching them without great caution, may be found in the " Colombian Navigator," vol. ii. p. 245. Captain Livingston says — " L am perfectly satisfied that any vessel shaping a course from off the rocks, to weather the N. W. point of the Caycos by any cnart hitherto published, will infallibly get entangled I among the reefs on the West side of the Watering Bay. When a vessel once gets I embayed among them, it must be next to impossible to beat out ; as the reefs exteniSng from the land to the eastward, hook suddenly round, at their outer extremity, to tbe southward. Thus a vessel may be in blue and deep water while the hcok of the reef is outside her. I have three times examined the appearance of these reefs from the I mast-heads of different vessels, and each time they appeared to me more dangerous than they had previously done." — [This was written in 1848.) 12. Great Inaoua.— This island has been surveyed by Lieutenant LaAvrcncc R.N. : Mnthew Town, a new settlement, lies 3 miles northward of the S.W. point. On the South-cast coast of Inagua arc several detached coral reefs about, and at xoinc I distance from, the S.E. point. On one of these H.M.S. Statira vif\» \o»i ; and mi I another, if not the same, the bai'k Emerald, Captain Nockelis, struck, at 6 p.m., lltbl June, 1834, on her pas>>aro from Jamaica to London. The bark was on itforlffof hours, while the small islet off' the S.E. point bore Wei-t. distant 4 miles, and the i nearest shore was 6 miles off. The depth of water was about 18 feet. The captain I observes that, as broken reefs may extend a .ong wry out, vessels in passing shonldj not advance within 10 miles of the shore. The Emerald was so inuoli damaged tbiii POSITIONS OF PLACES. T9 ind and not dgator,"vol. The Spanish 3e Mayne aa ce improved, on the West hen entering tor, vol. ii. p. Lance of large for the very in broad red alf minute. ant revolvins? isible 12 to ^u I, and Lohos, great care, by This portion sr more to the on which this appearance of , about 15 feet set only above )hire and vrild it became necessary to abandon her 5 and on the next day, at seven p.m., her ra-ew were saved in a Spamsh schooner, bound for Philadelphia, being then, -with 9 feet of water in her hold, in lat. 20° 36', Ion. 73" 10', 24 miles to the souths rd of Inagua. 13. Grand Turk. — An iron lighthouse, 400 yards wii.niu the North point. 14. Silver Kay Bank. — It seems that f; Fletcher See/, said to have been dis- covered near the S^W. extremity of the Sih- > Yay Bank, in 1833, really exists on the S.W. part of that Bank, the true form of wnich has, for the first time, been as- certained by Captain Owen and assisting officers, as now exhibited on the chArts. Its North-east side is extremely dangerous, naving a cluster of rocky heads, extending 18 miles, and even with.the* water. There are also detached patches on the Nor£ and North-western parts. 15. The Bajo de Navidad has been described as a fine clear bank of an oval form : its greatest length 22 miles North and South, and 1 1 in breadth ; the least water on it 11 fathoms, which is on the South-east edge. The general depths 16 and 17 fathoms, veiy even bottom, coral and sand ; the water being of a darkish hue, the bank is not easuy distinguished. VARIATIONS OF THE COMPASS.— 1861. The present variation at the head of the Matanilla Bank is about 4" E. At Nas- sau, in Providence Island, it was found, in 1 836, to be 3^° E. At Gun Kay, on the western side of the Great Bank, 4° 30' E. ; at the Jimientos and Eleuthera, 3° ; at the Crooked Islands and Watling's island, nearly the same ; at the Caycos it was 3° 10'; and at Turks' Islands, 2" 64', 1836. There is but Uttle secular change in the variation hereabouts, and therefore the amounts given above are still correct. 18. CUBA, JAMAICA, ETC. sented on the E. end are re- , vol u. p. 228. r observation! I of the Caycos, |e found in the am perfectly [ther the N.W. iget entangled !ssel once get! (efs extending iremity, to tbe ;ok of the reef reefs from the lore dangcious int Lawrcnci' lie S.W. point, tt, and at some la lost; ami™ I fit 6 p.m., 11' on it for two I lilcs, and the i ThccaptaiB |)aH8ing shonWj damaged thii I SE. and East of Cuba. Cape de Cruz Peak of Tarquino [1] St.Iago de Cuba, Mono at j the ent. ; Lighthouse [2] 1 Port Guantanamo ; Entr. — Escondido; East point — Baitiqueri ; Entrance i Cape Maysi, or Maize[3] Port Mata ; Entrance .... Baracoa ; Entrance [4] — Maravi ; Entrance . . — Navatt ; Entrance ; . — Cayaguaneque ; E. pt. — Taco; West Point .. — Jaragua j Entrance . . Putta de Guarico I Port Cayo Moa ; Kayj East Point I Yaguancque; Entrance — Cananova ; Entrance — Cebollas Entiance . . I Tanumo ; Entrance . . I Cabonico ; Entrance. . — Nipe ; Entrance j Banes } S.E. Point.. LAT. N. 19 50 11 20 3 19 67 29 19 55 10 19 55 30 20 1 20 14 20 17 20 20 21 36 2C 24 30 20 29 36 20 30 30 20 32 20 20 32 40 20 39 50 20 42 20 41 20 42 20 42 20 20 44 10 20 42 20 20 4.5 40 20 53 30 LON. W. 77 45 15 76 51 75 58 48 75 20 25 75 12 20 75 1 10 74 7 37 74 31 41 74 29 31 74 27 35 74 29 50 74 31 74 34 74 36 40 74 40 45 74 47 74 58 75 75 5 25 2 35 76 11 60 75 21 75 26 75 34 ATITHOUiriES. Spanish Sui V .0^ ^> ^ ^• IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT.3) nil 10 ^KilSi ■tt Uii 12.2 I.I lli2ilUi4l^ ^ ^:>' ^^ ^.^ ^ '-^ Hiotographic Sciences Corporation ^ <> %% WfST MAIN STRUT W8MTW,N.Y. MSM (7U) •73-450) -6^ 82 POSITIONS OF PLACES. A lighthouse has been erected on the table-land, about 300 feet to windward, or East of, the Morro, to point out the entrance to the harbour, and prevent vessels run- ning to leeward of it during the night. The light revolves in 1 minute at 223 feet, and is visible at 20 miles. 3. Cape Matsi. — Captain Foster places Ca^ Maize in 74° 6' 18" Chagres as 78° 57' 19". Captain Owen makes it 74° 8' 0". It may be observed that Captein Foster's longitudes appear to be about 3 minutes easterlv (2' 56"), and this corre<;tion applied to bis positions will properly a^ust them ; this will place Cape Mayd, in accordance with Captain Owen s determination. 4. Post Babacoa. — Captain Foster found the difference of longitude between this and Cape Maysi to be 21' 54", which gives the position in the Table. The point of observation is the Fort of Point Barlovento, ou the weather point of the harbour. 5. NuEViTAS. — The channel into this harbour is to the S. by E., 4 miles from Point Matemillos. On Point Maternillos a lighthouse showing a revolving light a\; 170 feet above high water is constructed. It has <' Colon " painted on it. Besidel this there are lighthouses constructing at the Cayo Paredon Cfrande, Cayo Lobot, and Cayo Confttea. • At Caedenas Bat, also on the North Coast of Cuba, there is a revolving li^ht shown on Piedras Kay (lat. 23° 14', Ion. 81° 7'), and a red and white or revolvmg light on the Cayo de Ana. 6. Cato Romano, &c. — ^In theyear 1781, M .le Marquis de Ckabert, when proceed- ing firom St. Domingo to the Chesapeake, had an opportunity of obeerving, by chro- nometers, tiie longitude of Cayo Romano, Port Matanzas, and the Pan of Matanzas; and his results were for the first, 77° 39' 45" W., and for the last, 81° 36' 30", being, in the mean, only 2 minutes to the westward of the late determinationB. 7. Double-Headed- Shot. — ^The position, according to the last edition of the Spaiush Chart, of the Mexican Sea &c., edited by Admiral Don Joe6 de Espinosa, first Director of the Hydrographic Establishment at Madrid, is Utt. 23° 26° 28', Ion. 83° 21' 0". In the first edinon, published (by order of the Minister of Marine, Don Juan de Langara) ia 1779, the N.W. Kay was represented in lat 23° 53', Ion. 80° 14'. Mr De Mayne places the N.W. Kay in 23° 55' N., and 80° 26' W. This is not the only variation to be found in the different editions of the Spanish Charts, even on points marked as determined ; although the observations of the Spanish officers are generally admitted, by those who have given them an examination, to be excellent. It may not be superfluous here to notice, that the eastern extremity of Florida, in kt 26° 35', appeared in the first edition of these charts in 80° 5^' W.j bat, in the last edition, it Lb placed in 79° 64|', or 11' more to the eastward. On the north-westernmost and highest of the narrow ridge of detached barren rocks, known as the Double-Headed Shot Kays, a lighthouse has been erected by the British Government, in lat. 23° 56' 28" N., Ion. 80 27' 38". The light is fixed, and 100 feet above the sea ; the tower being 54 feet high, it is visible tmm 14 to 20 mile*, •coording to the height of the observer, in all directions, except S.S.W. | W., where, at 9 nules distant, it will be hidden by Water Kay. 8. Havana And Liohthouse.— The position formerly given was lat. 23° 8' 18' N., Ion. 82° 22' 4" W. The longitude bcinj^ the mean of twenty results from ston eolipeed by the moon, by Don Josef Joaolura de Ferrer, 1808, 9, 10, 11, 12. Tldi place, which is taken by Lieutenant Ila])er as a secondary meridian, is ponsidered by him as in Ion. 82' 21' 57" W. The difforeiicc, 17% between this and Mr. Pmdy'a podtion, as given in our previous editions, is but trifling. The Lighthouae on the Morro upon the eastern Point of the Harbour, exhibits i brilliant rcvolvinjj; light, which appeai-M in itu full luHtrc onoe in a minute. Although ap inferior light, it may be distinctly seen, in clear weather, between 3| and 4 leaguet off. 9. Cape Antonio, Ible of Pines, &c.— -On the 12th of August, 1817, Ci^taiD Livingston came to an anchor off Cape Antonio, in 7 fathoms i and by an excellent ohtiervBtion, found his latitude to bo 21'' 53' M" t thiH coufiitni* that which *"" beSB POSITIONS OF PLAGES. «8 given by the Sponiflh omen. The bngitode ie woU eetabluhed between 84* 67' and 84 68 . The Baron von Humboldt mw 84" 0T i Captain Owen, 84" 08' i the ftianuli officer had prerioady given it a» 8^ 67' 30 , now confirmed. A hMhihoute called the BoneaU Tower, and having that word painted on it* 117 feet m height, stands on the cape. It exhibits a brilliant revolving light eveiy minute, at an elevation ofno feet above high water, and is consequently visible at 14 mUes distance. Is was first shown in 1860, and must prove exceedingly servioeable to navig&tioa. i 10. Jaqua.— A lighthouse, showing a brilliant fixed light at 82 Ifeet above high water, has been built (1860) on the East point of the entrance, Point Coloradoe. Ihe tow^r is 46 feet high, and has « Villanueva" painted on it. 11. Oband Catman.— The latitude of the S.W. Kay of the Grand Cayman, as observed by Captain Livingston, August 6th, 1817, appeared to be 19° 14', not 19' 11', the parallel formerly assigned : the longitude was communicated to us by the late Captain Hurd, as a aeternunation to be relied on, and it appears to have been con- firmed by Captain J.W. Monte^th, as shown in the " Colombian Navigator," vol. ii. page 93. The S.E. point, as communicated by Mr. Dnnsterville, lies in lat 19° 16' N., and Ion. 81" 6' 40'^W. The village on the West, formerly the Sbgttie*, is now called Qeorg^oum, but the most populous village is JBoddetUown, on the South. 12. JABfAICA in general. — ^"In his outline of Jamaica, 1821, Mr. De Mayne gives Morant, or the eastern point, in longitude 76° 12', and South Negril, or the western point, in 78° 26' W. By reference to the Table it will be seen tmit we give tLe one m 76° 11' 19% and the other in 78° 26' dO\ " Mr. Leard, in his Survey of 179i, save Morant Point in 76° 3', and South Negril in 71° 33' ; consequently he represented the island more than 16' longer then it has since been exhibited ; and there is reason for believing that the leng& is rather leas than greater than that which we have given. The northern coast, it also appears, has been placed too for North fix>m 1 to 2 miles. We have attempted to adjust these differences, still adhering to the safe side, on the New Chart of Jamaica and its Har- bours, published by Mr. Laurie } and we give, with confidence, from several commu- nications. Point Morant more, and South Negril less, to the West, than as shewn on former Charts." — J. Purdy. — See farther, the Note on Port Boyal and Kingston, in vol. il. of the " Colombian Navigator." It may here be remarked, that Lieutenant Kaper assumed Port Royal as 76° 60' 64*, bat considered that it was not satisfactorily settled. From subsequent calculations from data supplied by Commander Bamett's chronometric differences, he has arrived at the conclusion that it is 76° 61' 47", or 1' more than his former I nigitude, or than that given in ova "Table } we have still adhered to the safe side. Morant Point LigKthouee. — On November Ist, 1842, a bright light, revolving once in every minute has been shown fitim an iron light-tower on this point, at 103 feet above tne level of the sea, and can be seen at 7 leagues. It is invisible to the eastward of N.E. by E. by compass. lluB iron tower was made in London, in little more than two months, and weighs 100 tons ! ditimeter at the base, 18^ feet ; at the top, IH feet ; iron I inch thick } the tower 106 feet high, 16 of which are sunk in the g^und. Is is painted white. 13. Portland Rock. — The Portland Rock is a single Kay, 16 to 20 feet above the sea, and covered with small bushes. It has been variously lopresented in from latitude 17° 7f to 17° 13, and fivm Ion. 76' 32' to 77° 31'. It Mr. De Mayne's Chart it appears in 1 7° 7^' N., and 77° 20' W. The position given in our Table cannot, wo think, be far from the truth. — See "Colombian Navigator," vol. ii. p. 84. The officers of II.M.S. Wtvhetter, in 1834, by numerous altitudes, &c., gained the latittide of the rock as 17' '5", and Ion. 77° 27' 4". 14. Pedbo Kays, — These Kays have boon laid down from a late survey, as shown on the Chart of Jamaica i thty are described ui the " Colombian Navigator," vol. ill. IHi|^ 246. 84 POSITIONS OF PLACES. 10, Baxq Nvbvo.— Aooordmg to ttie Spanish offimn, 1804, ttententflltUs ahoal is about 7 miles from North to South, and 14 miles from East to Wart. All tiie eaBtem '^urtis a reef, very Bte6p-to} but, on the West, the depth diminishes grad- ually. Atli miles from the northern extremity is the Sandy Kay, given in the Ta- ble, The Baxo del Cohbot, irhioh is repMsenfed on the charts to the E.S.E. at the New Shoal, baa been particularly searched for, but could not be found. The ahoal tras examined by H.M. surveying shAp I%umltr, March, 1635 { the small kay, given in the Table -wm fbund to be 4 feet high, and a cable's length East and West, at 6 miles N.E. from the southern breakers ; it presents no appearance of vegetation, and is composed of coarse coral, sand, and sttmes. — Oohmbian Navigator, vol. ill. p. 248. 16. Sbrbamilla. — ^This bank, with its kays, formerly much misrepresented, lie between the parallels of 15' 35' and 15° 55' N., and the meridians of 79" 41' and 80° 5'. On its eastern and southern sides are several kay3 and reefi. On the North- east side is a detached patch of rocks, on which the sea cozustantiy breaks ; it is just awash, but, in fine weather, a rock will show about 2 feet out of the water. Between it and the main bank is a safe passage, of not less than six &thoms, bordering closiB to the western side of the reef. In clear weather, by day, all the rocky patches axe eesily avoided, but it is very dangerous to approach oy night.~^Cbi(Mnftta» Naviffator, vol. ui. page 2i48. VABIA-nONS OF THE COMPASS— 1861. At the West end of Cuba, and about the Isles of Pines, the uresent variation is about 6° E. Near the East end, about 4 degrees. At the Qrand Cayman, 5° 45' E. At Port Royal, Jamaica, Mr. Leard in 1791, gave it as 6° 50' E. ; but there is reason to believe that, for a long time pa4t; it has not exceeded 5°. In 1824, Mr. De Mayne gave it as 4° 40' only. At Morant Point, 4° tO' E. 1861. These variations are very uowly thcrtantijf^ 18. ST. DOMINGO OB HAYl^T, POETO-EICO, AND THE VIEGIN ISLANDS. ST. DOMINGO. Isle of Monai the Mi^e Hobero ) Bight Bank Punta Macao; ranchos .. Isle of Saona ; Sandy beach near W. Point Boca de Quiabon, or Cha- boni ; Punta Barlovento Boca de la Romana i Com- mandant's house Maooris Point Isle of Santa Catalina i W. Pohit CiTT of Santo Dominoo i Cathedral, W. portal (1) J Signal Tower on W. Point Baraona ( Village in Neiba Bay Alta-Velo, or the High Sail (2) LAT. N. I » o t */ 18 6 18 58 50 18 48 67 49 69 3 37 68 29 50 18 10 18 68 46 53 18 24 20 68 58 23 18 27 82 18 25 50 68 58 37 69 19 25 18 10 69 2 18 28 17 69 52 26 18 28 22 69 52 10 18 12 2 71 5 45 18 28 50 71 39 44 At.'.i.jjaTm. Sir Robert H. Schomburgk, F.R.G.S., 1852. Captain Rich. Owen, R.N., and Edw. Dunsterville, Esq., R.N., 1820, 27, 32. POSniONS OF PLACES. ST. DOMINGO, PORTO-RICO, &o.— Comtinved. 86 IiAT. M. Cape Jocquemel, or Jacmel Pta. Ajogas, or Falie Cape Prayle Book AouinBay; the Diamond St. Lotiis i tiip Old Fort . . Anx Cayea ; the Town . . Isle i Vaohes E. point Pdnt Abaoou Point & Gravois Cape TiBUBOM { Extremity IroiB Bay I House on tlw Beach Isle of Navaca) Middle . . Cape Dame Marie, or Don- na Maria : Port Jeremie Pirogues, on the Rochelois Reef I Hummock of Petit Gonave I Isle of Gonave ; West point Post au Pbince} Fort I Biffithon JArcaoins } Northernmost [St. Marc, or St. Mark's pt. [Port Piment |St.Ni3holasMole,Ft.George IPort A 1' Ecu iPort Paix ; Carenase Point iTortae or Tortoga Islei W. Point , East Point ]ITT of CapB HaTTIEN; Watering Place Grange Point ...... Point IsaMUca abella Bay; Islet Port Plata ; E. point .... )ld Cape Fran^aiB Dape Cabron "ape Samana Cape Raphael Uape Enga&o f omt Eepada Island of porto-ri- co. ape St Juan, or N.E. Pt. loRRo Cabtlb of St. Juan (3 Point Bruguen, or N. f^ Point. 7...! plo Desocho, or Zacheo LON. AXTTHOBrmS. ^Ruadilla Town 18 10 20 17 46 17 39 18 13 48 18 14 27 18 11 10 18 4 18 1 18 1 20 18 22 18 23 48 18 24 46 18 36 30 18 38 18 37 20 18 26 61 18 66 26 18 32 12 18 48 19 2 10 19 37 19 49 30 19 66 10 19 68 20 8 20 20 1 19 46 40 19 64 46 19 68 40 19 63 60 19 49 19 40 30 19 21 30 19 16 40 19 2 18 34 30 18 19 48 18 24 20 18 29 18 31 18 18 23 48 18 2d 10 72 83 16 71 42 71 41 46 30 73 20 73 31 73 44 73 44 30 73 46 73 66 30 74 27 32 74 29 33 76 3 74 27 13 74 6 73 12 72 63 39 73 18 33 72 22 26 72 38 72 61 73 1 73 27 33 73 6 30 72 48 46 72 67 30 72 36 72 10 42 71 40 71 6 30 71 4 70 42 69 66 14 6 16 68 63 30 68 20 30 68 8C 66 39 66 7 67 7 07 27 40 07 7 17 00 69 7 13 Captain R. OwEir, R.N., and Commander E. DuMBTEiTUXB, R.N. The Observations of the Boun- ish Officers i particularly taose of Captains Don Cosmfi de Chnr- Pica, and Frandaoo Fidalgo, &c. For aomo important remaiks on the NaTrigation about Porto- Rico, -with al^blo of Observations on 'Uie Oaribbee Island, tec, by detain Harhtmann, Hydrographer of the tho Danish K^yalNavy. ses Oakftibisn Nmtigator, vol. iU. pp. xiz., XX. 86 POSITIONS OF PLAC3E8. PORTO-RICO, VIRGIN ISLANDS, &c^-:Contikued. Point Alganobft ,.) Puerto Gnumica; East point Caxa de Muertos, or Coffin ; S. W. Point The VIRGIN ISLANDS. Anegadaj West point. . {East point (6) Soldier, or North point . . ; Horse Snoe Reef; S.E. End Herman Reef, 16feet; S. pt. Virain Qorda; Pajaros, or 'East point Ginger Isle ; Oentre Tortola; Road Town, Fort Bnrt St. Jolin's ; S.E. point Sta. Monica Rock, (9 feet) St. Thomas Habboub; Fort Christian (6) The Bergantin or Carvel . . St. Cboix or Santa Cbuz : Eastern Extremity of the Island (1) The Lang ObservatoryJS) ■Harbour of Christians- tted ; Flag8ta£P of the Outer Point Battery, called Fort Louisa Au- gusta (9) Fort Christiansweem, in the Town of Christian- steed; Flagstaff .... Salt River Point .... (10) Hams or N.W. Bluff (11) Fort at Frederioksteed or West End {Flagstaff (12) Sandy Point 5 the 8. W. Ex- tremity of thel(>land(13) Buck Isle ; East Extrem- ^-^V North-west Extremity Its summit, about 360 feet above the level of the sea LAT. N. 18 14 17 67 44 17 60 SO 18 60 18 43 48 18 46 46 18 36 30 18 33 30 18 30 42 18 23 45 18 25 3 18 19 18^9 18 20 27 18 18 17 45 30 17 44 32 17 47 15 LOK .W. 67 7 80 66 62 46 66 86 64 26 12 64 16 20 64 20 20 64 11 64 14 64 19 64 28 41 64 37 64 44 20 64 39 30 64 55 40 65 7 64 34 64 41 6 17 45 28 64 41 42 17 44 69 17 47 12 17 46 24 64 41 58 64 44 45 64 62 3 17 43 10 64 52 48 17 40 30 64 53 48 17 47 18 64 36 40 17 47 30 64 37 37 64 37 3 AUTHOBrmS. The Spanish Surveyon. The Survey by Lieut. O.B. Lawrence, R.N., 1848. 'Wf A communication made to Mr. | Dunsterville, by Sir A. Lang, of St. Croix, Jan. 21, 1832. Th6 general height of the topi I of the hills in St. Croix is tml 800 to 860 English feet above tb I level of the sea, excepting towdl the northern side of 'the jawtk-j western district of the island; I where they ascend higher, and tin I highest of which, called JVM I EoffU, is 1,166 feet above the levjll of the sea. Its summit is in lit | 17° 46' 62", and Ion. 64° 48' 31' .Along the greater part of thil South side of &e island a lodgerf I reefe lines the coast, at a diatanotl from shore, in some places, «| nearly 2 miles. There are fe»I channels through these reefe, ia»| ticablo for Bmall vessels only. ■*t: posrnoNs of plages. 87 NOTES. 1. Santo Domingo. — "We preriously eave the longitude of the Gty as 60° 68', |f.K.O.S., on his appointment to the Dominican consohite in 1849, to be too tof West, land he accordingly made many observatianB, and collected others of authentidfy, and [places it as stated iu the Table. See Navt. Mag., August, 1852, pp. 412, 418. 2. Alta Vela, or the High Sail. — ^This is a high rooky islet, which serves as a Igeneral point of departure to aU ships bound from the eastwardrto Jamaica, &c. It Iu peaked, and appears to the northward, at a distance, like a dome, emerging above , mist or fog. — See, farther, the Book of Directions above mentioned. On the authority of the respected and scientiflc Admiral Espinosa, of the Spanish ^avy, we formerlv gave Alta- Vela in Ion. 71" 22' W., instead of a more westerly osition, which had previously been assigned : but it is now fully proved that this u rrong, and that the true longitude is alMut 71° 40'. Mr. Dnnsterville, from the mean of observations in 1826 and 1829, made it 79° 39' 25" W. Captain R. Owen as in the Table, makes the summit in 71° 39' 44* W. 3. MoRKO of St. Juan — ^The Harbour of St. Juan, was surveyed by Don Cosme le Churraca) in 1794. The position given in the Table is from the statement of Don fosef Cerquero, director of the Royal Observatory in the Isle of Leon, near Cadis. rhe particulars are given in the " Colombian Navigator," vol. ii. page xyii. ; «nd ^he longitude, as liiere noticed, is considered as one of the best established in America. 4. AouADiLLA. — ^The situation of Aguadilla,. as given by the Spanish Officers, is (8° 25' 53" N., and 67° 6' 20* W. Admiral MackeUar gives it as 18* 24' 67* N., and (7° 8' 26"^ W. In this, as in some other instances, the mean of the two is the position iven in the Table. 5. Aneoada, with its reefs, were surveyed by Mr. (since Sir) Robert Herman jehomburgk, the distinffuished traveller, in 1832. We formerly enumerated, in the lescription of the Caribbean Isles, the number of vrrecks that lay upon the reefii in [Sll ; and Sir R. Schomburgk has noticed that, between 1811, vnd 1832, twenty to the South of a westerly direction toward Buck Island Shoals and reefs, vnth whicn it may be considered as connected. The northern edge of the shoal is a coral ledge, ■everal miles in extent, on which 6^ fathoms of water is the least depth yet found ; the more common depths beins 6, 6| and 7 fiithoms. The sea has been observed to break on the whole line of the northern edge, and to the very extremity of the bank, in an alarming manner, during a northerly ground swell in the winter months. 8. Obsbbvatost of Sib Amdbew Lang. — " The height of the observatory above the sea is 440 English feet. The latitude is true to within one second. The longi. tude is the result, I may say, of the labour of years, and the present assumption of 84° 41' 0" in arc, or 4>> 18' 44 in time. West from Greenwich, I consider to be dete^ mined with almost such absolute certainty, that I do not think the error in the dete^ mmation can exceed four seconds' in time, or one minute in arc, and I tru^t is le»i. On that datum the longitudes of the other stations are accurately determined. All the latitudes are certain to one or two seconds." — Andr. Lang. JUrom th« observatory eomtnuntoation by signal, according to Captain Marryt^s code, I be attended to. The observatory is situated eibout 1 mue to the E.8.E. of the torn <^ Christiattrimd. In dear tceather the shoals are distinctly seen. — B. DunsterviUe.] 0. CHBI8TIANSTJBD.>-Nearly 1 mile due North from the entrance of the harboni of Christianstffid is the western extremity of a reef called the Scotch Reef, which stretches srom thence, with its shoals, frdly 1^ voiles to the E.N.E., rendering theap- piXMtch to the harbour very dangerous to strangers. 10. Salt Riveb. — Salt River Point is comparatively a low point, and one of the j most northerly in the island. About one fourth of a mile to the North of it is a dan- gerous sunken rock, called the White Horse, on which the sea generally breaks. 11. Hams Bluff, along its northern part, is bold-to. 12. Fbedbbickstad, or West-end Bay, is an extensive and beautiful bay, affordinc I excellent and smooth anchora^, except where the wind has westing ; but like iD anchorages of that open kind, it then bieoomes dangerous. 13. Sandt Poimt. — ^Tothe South of this low and deceiving point, at nearly 1 1 mile, there extends a dangerous reef to which a good berth should always be given. 14. Buck Island. — ^This island, except on its southern side, is surrounded witk dangerous raefs and shoals, extending fiilly 1 mile to the W.N.W. of the N. W. poiit of the island ; ftilly two miles to the eastward of its eastern extremity, ; and aboot 1 mile to the North of the island ; forming, in the intervening bearings, a circuitotii j connexion of the greatest dangers, which ul prudent persons will avoid approaching- VARIATIONS OF THE COMPASS.— 1861. At the East end of Santo Domingo, it is about 2° 32' E. { at the City of Santo I Domingo, 3" 0' E. ; at the West end, 4" 0' E. At Porto Rico, about 2' 0' E. } aboit | Tortola, V 30' E. ; at Anogada, about V 10' E. POSmONS OF PLACES. 20. THE OAEIBBEE AND LEEWARD ISLANDS. m Caribbeb Islands. [1] Sombero [2] Do^ Isle} Landing on 8. nde AngniUat Cuatom House on North ride St. Mabtdi's i Fhilips- borgh, Fort William . . J Wert Point LAT. M. tON. Fort Saba; the middle.. St.. Bartholomew; Ghurtam St. Enstatitu ; OraageTown St.Chbistofheb's; Basse- Terre [8] Nevis I Cbarlertown Bedonda ; the Pinnacle, 600 feet Montserrat; Plymouth on South ride Antigua; St. John's Road, Fort James [4] Ft Byham onN.'E. side Dockyard Flagstaff, En- gUui Harbour Desinde or Deseada ; N.E. Point [fi] Quadaloupe'; Baase-Terre [6j : Mane-Galante iThe Saintes ; St. Paul, Bolt Head, S.W. Point [ Aves Islet [7] Dominii!a;Rd. of Roseau '8] Maetinique; Ft.Iloyal[9j I St. Lucia; Pt. Moulacique or South Point I St. Vincent ; Kingston . . [Babbaoob I Briqjetown ; FortBeokwith ....[10] [Grenada ; Fort St. George iTobago; N.E. Point urmnroudi Port ; George Fort ;S.W.End rBnriDAD ! ri3] Point Oabra; N.E. Pt. Point Galeota ; S.E. Pt. Boca de Navios, or Ship Channel Poet Spain > Water Batterr restigoB ; Centre Iarqaeita: Pnmpntnr CnHtlo king 18 3d 4d 18 16 15 18 13 18 1 25 18 3 25 17 88 17 53 50 17 29 17 18 17 8 50 16 55 16 43 17 6 40 17 7 20 17 16 22 15 59 30 15 57 50 15 51 20 15 42 15 18 30 14 36 7 13 41 13 12 13 5 30 12 2 54 11 20 13 11 10 11 7 35 10 50 20 10 9 30 10 41 45 10 38 42 11 23 15 10 59 15 63 27 45 63 16 10 63 4 40 63 4 24 63 10 63 14 62 51 30 62 59 62 42 30 62 36 50 63 19 62 43 30 61 51 21 61 46 17 61 45 42 60 58 61 45 38 61 17 61 37 30 62 37 45 61 25 15 61 4 38 61 1 61 15 59 36 46 61 48 30 60 32 30 60 45 60 51 30 60 54 5 60 58 20 61 45 30 61 31 45 63 5 60 03 48 30 avthobitim. Captain E. Bamett, RJST., Lieut E. Lawrance, R.N«, Mr. Parsons, RJN^., &o. Captain E. Columbine, R.N. 1803. im POSITIONS OF PLACES. THE GAAIBBEE and LEEWARD ISLANDS.— Comtwubd. Margarita; North Point Pta. de Arenas, or Sandy Point , Blanqnilla; NorthPoint.. Tortojra; East Point .... OrchiUa ; N.E. Breakers. . Shoal of Two Fathoms . . Los Boqnesor Bocoas : N.E. Islet Islas de Aves {Birds* la.) : Windward Isle Leeward Lde Buen-Ayre ; N.E. Point . . ■ — ; S. Point Light CuBAyAO ; North Point . Bay of St. Anna ; Entrance Little Corafjuo ; N. End . . Oruha } S.E. Point LAT. K. o » » 11 10 30 10 69 11 54 30 10 54 45 11 52 45 12 9 15 11 58 40 11 57 30 11 59 SO 12 14 12 2 30 12 24 12 6 20 12 12 23 45 LOW. W. 63 53 30 64 24 30 64 41 50 65 13 50 66 6 30 66 6 20 66 39 20 97 28 20 67 42 35 68 18 30 68 22 30 69 9 68 55 43 68 37 13 69 57 30 AVTHOBITUW. The admirahle Surrey of the Coasts of Venezuela, &c., by Don Joaquin Frandsco .Fidalgo, and other Spanish Officers. Publish- ed by tne < Direecion Hidrogra- fieof at Madrid, in 1816 and 1817. The longitudes a^usted. NOTES. 1. WiNDWABL and Leewakd TsLands. — Under the denomination of Wiudteard lahnda, tiie navigators of France and Spain include the whole ran^e from the Virgins to IVinidad; and, under that of Leeward Islands, the range which exists between Trinidad and the Gulf of Maracaybo. This distinction is natural and proper, and we have adopted it, in preference to the former distinction in the English charts, which includes, under the name of Leeward Islands, those from Porto Rico to Dom- inica only { and, under that of Windward Islands, those from Martinique to Tobago. The observations of the Spanish officers for determining the respective situations of ihe Caribbee Islands were very numerous and important, and our late charts have been regulated chiefly thereby. Some later corrections have, however, been made, particularly in the northern part of the range, and in the Virgin Isles. 2. Sombrero. — ^This solitary islet ia a flat and rocky eminence, 2^ miles in length, N.N.E. and S.S.W., without any hummock, having neither quadruped nor vegetable upon it, excepting grass, and that generally dry, with a few weeds, '&c. It is even destitute of water. It has been surveyed by oior Admiralty, but see ' Colombian Navigator" voLiii. p. 64. 3. St. Christopher's. — ^In January, 1782, the Marquis de Chabert took nine meridian altitudes, whence he concluded the latitude to be nearly as in the Table. The longitude by bis marine clocks, previously examined at Martimque, appeared as 62^ 52' So". Mr. Zsthrtmann made the (Ufference of longitude between it and St. Thomas's 2° 13' 27", or in 62° 42' 13" as in the Table. 4. AntiottA. — Our former position was a close approximation to that of Captain E.' Bamett, R.N., whose fine survey of 1848, gives a perfect picture of ihe Island. 0. Desiradb.— From observations made by the Chev. de Borda, he computed the latitude of the N.E. point as 16° 20' 30. Captain Monteith, in lat. 16° 58', by three observations. Longitude of a ship bj chronometer, 61° 9' 45" ; by lunars, QV 14' 38"; mean, 61° 12' 12". Bearing of Desi- rade, S. 5° E., distance, 36 miles, which gives 3' of departure — Ion* 3' 5 . Hence longitude of the centre of Desirade, 61° 9' 7". 6. GVADALOUPE. — ^The latitude of Basse-Terre has been confirmed {torn obserra* tions of M. de Verdun, &c. The longitude ( assuming Fort Royal, Martinique, as in 61° 9') appeared to be 61° 48 15' ; but if Martinique is 4° 50' East of this, it will place POSITIONS OF PLAC£8. 91 Ooadaloupe in 61° 43' 20*. The difference of longitude between Oundaloape and St. Thomas (64" 66' 40') was found by Bfr. Zahrtmann to be 3° 10' 2% and anothmr mea^ snrement makes it 40° 3d' West of Guadaloupe { these combined will place it in 01° 44' 16% nearly as in the Table. A lighthouse on Ttrre de Bat Itiet (or Petite Terre) at the eastern extremity of the island of Guadaloupe, shows a fixed light at 108 feet above high water, and is visible in all directions for 6 leagues. A rock, called the JStUein* dm Sktdt bears 8. 19° W., 2,920 feet from the lighthouse. Ships coming from the eastward will find from IS to 20 &thoms water, at the distance of 2 miles North or South of the light, and should not approach it nearer. M. Tondu, in 1783, concluded the longitude, by three immersions and two emersions of the first satellite of Jupiter, to be 61° 48. The latitude of Pointe des Cheteauxt the eastern porut, was observed by M. de Borda as 16° lU' 30*. 7. AVBS IsLBT. — ^The position of this small kay was ascertained by Lieutemini Lawranoe in 1850. It has been lately much visited for a stratum of guano which covered it, and which vras the subject of some dispute. When removed, it will prob- ably leave the place but a bare reef. 8. Roseau. — 'The latitude of thb place, according to the result of observations by Messrs. Verdun, &c., is 16° 18' 23". But the French officers have given the longito^ 9|' to the westward of that shovm in the Table, which cannot be correct. 9. Mabtiniqce. — ^The latitude accords with that resulting from the observations of Messrs. Verdun, Borda, &c., who concluded the longitude as 61° 0'. Mr. Ihmster> ville gives the longitude of the Diamond Bock as 61° 6 . In the Survey of Martinique, executed by order of the French Qovemment in 1824 and 1825, as shown in tmrd volume of the Colombian Navigtdor, the longitude of the flagstaff of Fort St. Louis, on^which all the other longitudes depend, is assumed by M. Monnier as 61° 1' 25". This vras arrived at by measurements from Rio Janei- ro, &c., and is 3' less than that now given. See Note 10, in that volume, page xxi, and the Table in page 91 ; which may be compared with the Notes hereto annexed. The longitude in the Table is assumed from a mean of chronometric measurements by M. Zahrtmann and M. Lartigue, between this and the observatories of St. Croix and St. Thomas, positions which may be considered as finally determined. These differences of longitude are taken as 3° 36' 58 ' East of St. Croix, and 3° 51' T from St. Thomas. 10. Barbados. — ^The late Dr. Nevil Maskelyne communicated the latitude of St. Michael's C9iuroh, in Bridgetown, as 13° 5' 30". The longitude has since been ^ven as 59° 43' 40" and 59° 41' 15". From foiur sei>arate measurements of the meridional difference between Port Royal and Barlmt^oe, it may be taken as 17° 13' 10", which will give 59° 37' 35" as the longitude of I'avbados. In 1850, Lieutenant G. B. Lawrance, by a careful measurement from St. Thomas with 17 chi-onometers, made Fort Beckwith as in the Table, in longitude 69° 36' 46".6 W. 11. Gbenada. — ^In 1779, M. de Chabert concluded the latitude of Fort St. Geoige as 12° 2' 64", and its longitude 42i West of Fort Royal, Martinique. This varus only 20" from the statement in the Table. Captain G. Daniell, of H.M.S. Ftcfor, m 1833, made the longitude 61° 48' 90". It was surveyed by Mr. James Young. 12. Tobago.— M. de Chabert. 1781, made the longitude of the S. W. Poini 20' to the the East of Fort Royal, Martinique : this places the point in only 60° 7^' W. The position formerly given in the Connaisaance dea Tetna was 1 1° 6' N. and 60° 49' W. The Baron Alex, de- Humboldt, in his ' Peraonal Narrative' (Engl. TransL), gives it as 10° 20' 13" N., and 60° 27' 30" W. The latter is evidently a groat error, as it would place Tobago directly East of the body of Trinidad. Wc presume that the N.E. end was intended, and that in 11° 20' 13" N., not 11° 10' 13", as given in the Connaiaaane^ dea Tetna. But if, upon conjecture, we take M. Humboldt^ long^itude thus, we sha^ Cce Tobaffo too tax to the East : for it is allowed that the situation of Trinidad Ium n scttlel by the Spanish surveyors, and it is well known that the high land of ui POSITIONS OF PLACES. Trinidad ia aeen flrom the ships at anchw in Courland ^y, over toe land of Sandy Pointt which could not be the case if the former authorities were oorreet. See the Chart oi the CSoasta, &g., from Tobago to Barcelona, published by Mr. Laurie. Cap- tain Daniell, in H.M.S. Vietor, 1833, made the longitude of Great Courland Bay 60* 61' 15'. A JmtMAonm od BaodeC Point, at the Fort of Soariorowiht shows a brilliant fixed light at 126 feet} first shown August 1st, 1844. The lifinister Book bears E.SJB. flrom tha Ught, distant 1| miles. 18. FoBT Spaim in Tbikidad.— Captain Foster makes Fort 16° 19' 0* East of Port Royal, or 61° 31' 46", which is adopted by Lieutenant Baper; ^is is 2* 80' West of the position quoted in the former edition ; it has, therefore been snbstraoted flx>m tiie longitude of Trinidad. The longitude, aocording to Lieutenant Lawrence, is 61° 31' 0". Captain (now General) Edward Sabine R.A., has, from agreat number of obser* vatiohs, giyen the position of the Protestant church in Port miiain, as 10° 36' 66* N., and 61° 86' 0" W. This new and beantifoi church is said by Captain 8. to be one of the many improvements and decorations for which Port Spain is indebted to its late gtvemor, Sir Ralph Woodford, and which have rendered it one of the handsomest wns in the British colonies. VARIATIONS OF THE* COMPASS— 1861. In the channel between Porto-Rico and the Virgin Islands the variation is about r 40' East; but on the East of Anegada it diminishes to 0° 40' East. At Antigua and Guadalome it is 1° East ; and nearly the same thence to Barbados. At Gnuooda &c., 1° 30' East! and Tiinidad, 2° East, llxese Easterly variations are slowly 21. THE COASTS OF GUYANA, COLOMBIA, ETC., TO THE MEXICAN SEA, INCLUSIVE. Capb Nobth Mount Mayec, a landmark . . Cape Orange St. Luis of Oyapok ; Fcnrt. . Cayenne [1] Isles du Saluti I. Royale . . Riv. Marowyne; Dutch post Poet Orange [2] Mot Creek Cameron's Plantation Bram's Pomt, Surinam Pabamabibo I Church River Corentyn; Nickerie Battery, on the East Mary's Hope, on the West Berbicet Crab Isle, light .. Corobana Point, Demerary; the lighthouse River Euequibo; extremity of the L^iuan Bai^ .... LAT. N. 61 6 22 67 66 16 16 10 66 1 1 30 56 30 66 20 43 30 5 67 33 6 3 30 6 24 30 6 49 20 7 20 ^ov. w. 61 61 62 49 50 OP 60 55 OP 25 OP 27 OP 14 36 52 32 8 53 66 20 64 33 54 37 41 54 56 9 48 10 30 55 55 56 52 24 67 2 47 22 68 11 30 58 18 AUTHORirnS. M. De la Ck>ndamine and the French Engineers i inclu- ding Lieutenant Roman Des- foss^s, who surveyed the "IIm duSalut"inl834. Capt the Baron Roussin, 1820' The Observations of Lien- tenant Bissohop Gieevelink, ktfe of the NetherlandishNavy, in the brig Echo, 1833--37. Sir R. Sohomburgk. The Topographical Surveys, adjusted by the longitude ti Demerary, as given by Cbptain Owen, &o. Sir R. Sohomburgk. pmi POSITIONS OF PLACEfl. THE 0OA«TB OF GUYANA, COLOMBIA, liO.->-OoxnxuED. Boca do Gnayma lAT. w. RlVEB Obinioo: Punta or Point Barima Ide CangrdM) N.E. pt. Trinidad. See the prece- ding Section page 89. Penas Point Cape Three Points Cape Malapasqua CuMANA, the City of . .[3] Puerto de Mochimai En- trance Isla Borracha ) N.E. point Barcelona, Moro of ... . Piritu Isles i Centre Isle Unare ; Centre Cape Codera Qiaspa; Point LaOuayra; Road ., City of Caracas (St. logo ae Leon) Puerto de Toriamo Puerto Cabello t Ent. Punta Tucaoas { South Kay Punta de San Joan Punta del Ubero Punta del Mauzanillo .... Vela de Coro Cape S. Roman Punta de la Marcolls .... Santa Anna de Coro Fort or Castle of Zapara Maracatbo ( Town Punta de Espada Bahia Honda} Entrance. . Cape la Vela Bio de la Haohat Town . . Cape 8. Augostin Cape B. Juan de Quia .... Cape de la Aji^a I Banxa Mabta [4] I Rio Magdalena : BocodeRio Yi^o .... Boco de Ceniaa Pueblo de Barranquillas I Punta de Savanilla Monro Hennoaa* Cascabel Rock iPahnaritaShoal iPunta de la Oalera iPunta de Oanoas CARTAGENA t Popa .. Salmedina Bank (2 m».) . . iBoco Chica { Entrance . . bias del Rosaiio } hu^r I. 8 M 8 44 80 8 ffl 10 44 10 46 10 10 42 fiO 10 27 87 10 24 10 le 40 10 13 16 10 10 16 6 10 36 64 10 39. SO 10 37 10 80 10 29 10 10 20 46 10 43 11 9 11 19 80 11 31 16 U 26 30 12 11 12 6 11 24 10 68 80 10 89 12 4 12 20 12 11 11 83 80 11 16 11 20 46 11 18 80 11 16 toir w. 11 U 6 6 20 10 10 61 46 10 47 10 34 10 26 10 28 10 60 U 2 10 68 10 66 69 68 60 40 60 23 61 61 26 62 40 J6 63 1 64 10 28 68 21 64 44 46 64 43 46 64 66 66 16 6 16 10 10 66 66 20 66 id 26 AVTHoamis. 66 66 20 67 61 46 68 2 68 17 6 68 28 36 68 47 16 69 22 6 69 40 6 70 6 86 70 19 20 69 47 60 71 88 80 71 48 71 60 71 48 36 72 13 86 72 66 66 73 38 6 74 2 20 74 14 20 74 16 74 46 86 74 63 46 74 48 2 6 27 26 10 10 10 30 11 76 76 76 76 16 26 76 26 80 76 33 76 33 16 72 40 46 76 36 17 76 46 46 The Spaaiah SarrejB of tha GoaaU of Veneauela, &o., by Don Joaquin Frandsoo Fidalgo, and other SpaniriiOlBcerii. Pub- lished by tne Direecion Hidrth grafleo, at Madrid, an 1816 and 1817. The whole of the ColomUan coaitt, from the Inland of Trinidad to Chaoros has been so finely and accui-tttoly surveyed by Don Joa« qi^ Fidalgo, and other Spanish oiBcen, as to leave nothing more to wish in. so fiir as the survey extends: the South side of the OiUf of Vetteattla !#^ < '-'•cj^^Jr * ''iT';i v 98 i POSITIONS OF PLACES THB OOASTB OF COLOMBIA, ftc— CoNTiirtrED. JstuiaI Point Pnnta de Xioalango. ..... Bam de S. Pedro ...... Bam de Tabaaco Barra d CSultq^ne BioTapiloho; Entranoeof Bam OB Ooaaaooalca — La Barilla Pnnta de 8. Joan Rooa Partida, or C^fl Bk. Babba de Altabado VERA CRUZ I The Light- hoUM .. .. Xalapa Cofre de Perote Peak of Oriiaba or Oricava PueUa de lot Angeles Tohica Teaonoo Mbxigo Cape Roxo Babba de Tampico Baira de Santander Boqnillas Cerradas Rio Grande del Norte, or Rio Bravo, Mouth of; Boundary LAT. V. 19 12 18 41 16 40 18 34 30 26 SO I.ON. 18 18 26 18 10 18 10 18 18 18 43 18 4A 19 12 15 19 30 8 19 32 64 19 2 17 19 15 19 16 19 19 30 40 19 25 45 21 16 22 15 56 23 40 25 25 56 90 53 91 00 92 35 92 35 92 59 93 21 94 17 94 30 94 33 95 2 95 42 ▲uTHomms. 96 7 26 55 97 8 97 12 12 15 15 30 98 2 45 99 21 45 98 51 99 5 97 18 97 50 18 08 2 07 45 97 11 30 The Spanish Surveys of the Mesdoan Sea, 1806—1814, with emendatums hv Admiiral Bfoe^ kdlar, of th« British Navy, and by the Baron Alex, von axm- boldt,&c. NOTES. 1. Cayenne. — ^The rituation of this town was given by M. De la Condamine, in 1774, frtnn four eclipses of the first Mitellite of Jupiter, as in 52" 16' 30" ; but the lon- S'tude ia the Table is inferred from Maranham : the differonoe of longitude between em having been ascertained by MM. Roussin and Lartigue. 2. Coast between the Marowtne and Beam's Point. — To Lieutenant B. Orte- wUnk, late of the Netherlandish Navy, the public is indebted for that valuable descrip- tion of the ooastsof Gu^ma and its several ports, which is in vol. iii. of the Colom. Nov. 3. CuxAMA. — The Baron von Humboldt gives the longitude (as calculated by M. Oltmanns) as 64° 9' 38" ; iLe chronometric dmerenoe between it and St. ThomoH, as asoertained by M. Zahrtmann, is 0° 44' 18', which makes it as in the table, 64° 10' 28*. 4. Santa Marta. — The meridional distance between Fort Royal and Santa Mur- ta, by several mr jurements, is 2° 35° 45*, which arives the longituae in the table. 5. Caledonia Harbour. — The position of Scorpion Kay, in this harbour, vm ascertained by Mr. Parsons, R.N., in H.M.S. Scorpion in 1854. It is important, »< correcting the Spanish surveys of this coast, used in determining the practioability of forming a navigable canal between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. VARIATIONS OF THE COMPASS.— 1861. Aooording to the Chart of Lieutenant F.J. Evans, R.N., which, however differs in some respects from previous authorities, the line of No Variation passes within the coast of Guyana, from the entrance of the Amasons to near Cayenne. The variation is thus at Cape North, about 0° 30' Weitint Suiinam,about 1* 30'J8!iu^ atDemerara, &o., 2° 5' Easti Trinidad, 2° 30' East; Caracas, 3** 50' East} Curavno, 4* 0' Easi { Santa Marta, rt" 25' East t Gulf of Darion, 6° 30' Kast ; Chogres, 6° 50' K. Caw Graciss a Dios. 6° 35' East > Balise, T 20' 'East \ " These variations appear to be very slowly deereating. xmaMU SECTION IL LIGHTHOUSES, AND THEIR ILLUMINATION. The Lighthouse Systems at present in operation on the shores of Ihe Atlantic Ocean are well worthy of far greater attention than they generally receive, both for the regalarity and perfbction of their arrangements, and for the beautiftil adaptations of science wnich they exhibit. A few remarks on their nature will therefore he an appropriate introduction to the lists and descriptions of the lights which follow. It is of the utmost importance to the sailor, that one light should be readily and clearly distinguished from another ; the melancholy effects or mistakes on this point are too familiar. Every means, therefore, of so distinguishing a light, should be made use of; and one point in furtherance of tiiia, is the system employed in the illumina- tion of the lighthouses, between the various methods of which it will be seen that then are some weU-marked or minor features, which serve to give a distinctive character to lights which may have, otherwise, the same general app^iranoe. L^hthouaea consist of two classes ; those built on the land, which do not differ, in the principles of their construction, from ordinary buildings; and those erected on isolated rocks, such as the Eddystone, and that on tne Heaux de Brehat, which have demanded the most refined Judgment and skill to combat with the enormous force of the waves. Another description of erection consists of iron piles, either secured to the rocks, oi on a large screw forced into the sand, which support the lighthouse. An example will be found in the Maplin Lighthouse, in the mouth of the Thames. Lwht-vesseh, employed where buildings have been hitherto impracticable, are of peculiar construction, and always painted re(j, with their name, in conspicuous white' letters, on their sides, and carry at their mast-heads one or more skeleton balls, as described, which, in cases of the vessels driving, are lowered, in indication of such an occurrence. During fogs or snow storms, from each of these vessels is sounded at I regular intervals a Chinese gong, the very peculiar and powerful sound emitted by wfiich is not to be mistaken for anything else. Light-ships are very strongly moorea, I either with a single mushroom ancnor, or with a span and bridle. The lanmg used for the illumination of liRhthouses are upon the principle invented I W Argand, about 1780. The smallest of tnem consists of a single cylindrijid wick, ' lor nearly an inch in diameter, and the air is made to ascend through the tube to the' jcentre of the flame, by means of a glass chimney placM around it, and does not differ^ jftom that in universal use. This sinsle wick lamp is used for the parabQlio reflectors ; ' and there are usually several of them In a lighthouse. Where a single and more powerftil ' light is required, a lamp of more complicated cunstruction, though of the seme prin- ciple, is employed. The largest has four ooncentrio wicks, the outside or largMt Semg S^ inches in diani,etcr, and the central or smallest flve-sizths of an ineh.^ !^rom_ the great heat which this ^werftil lamp evolves daring its buming, which is puffloirot to char the wicksi the oil is made to flow copiously over tham, so that tha hutntityjupplied to them is about four times more thim is consumed at the time.. ~ is effected either by means of small pumps, moved by clockwork, or by springs • N 98 LIGHTHOUSES AND tHElK ILLUMINATION. or weightt preadng on the reservoir, or by the prewore of conlnned air. Th^ lamp with four wioka is of the first order; for the second it has thrst wicks, for the third two, and the fourth one wick. The oil now employed both in the English and French lighfbonses is called colia oil, and is ezpresed firom the seed of a species of rape or wild cabbage. Formerly the best sperm oil was used in the English ughts till 1862. The eflJBct of a lamp in issuing rays, is to fill a sphere whose dliineter is double that of the distance to which such alight can be seen. But as only tlktse rays are service- able which are visible in a horizontal or nearly horizontal direction, those which pass b^irond these limits must be turned into it. To do this we have two alternatives,— one to r^eet the %ht by iwlished mirrors, the other to refract it by glass lenses placed before the Ught. When polished silver reflectors are used behind the lightt it is Mlled the Catoptric system, and is that most generally in use in England. Where glass lenses are used he/ore or around the light, it is ealled the Diqptrie ^stem, and is that most generally in use in France. Hence these two systems are frequently known by the names of the respective countries. The Catoptric or reflecting system is dependent upon the peculiar properties of the parabolic curve, to which we reflectors are formed. The parabola is a conic section which has within it a point called the focus fwhich is the situation of the flame in the reflector), and if a line be, drawn from the focus to any point on the parabolic curve, another line drawn from that jpoint parallel to the axis of the parabola, will form an anal angle on either side of it. Now the reflector, composea of copper Uned with ver, is formed by the section of the revolution of a parabola, and if a part of light firom the focus be reflected firom its polished surface, it is thrown off, or reflected m a direction mrfectly parallel to its axis. The point of liffht in the focus thus sends forth a cvlinder of ught, whose diameter is equsi to the aouble ordinate or opening or moutli of the reflector. Supposing, then, that we wished to produce a complete circle of light all aroimd the hrison, it is evident that it could not be done with any number of such instruments ; there would be dark intervals between the direction of their axes, if thejr were placed in a circle. But here another ciroimistance occurs. The flame used is not a point of light, but is nearly an inch in diameter, and this subtends an angle at the vertex (or bottom of the reflector) of 14° 22', in the reflectors ordinarily used in the l^inity House lights, which are 21 inches in diameter and 4 inches in focal length. Therefore, combined with other circumstances, about 15° or 17° of divergence may be considered effective, and it would take from 26 to 33 of such reflectors to maJco a complete circle of light. ^ The brillianoy of the ray firom this reflector is considerably stronger in the direc- tion of the axis, that is, wnen viewed directly in fix>nt, than it is for some distance on either side of that direction ; and at great distances, in Jkeed lights, when you are in the direction between the axis of the adjoining reflectors, the lignt is fluently glim- merinff and feeble, but a small change in the position of the ship brings ^ou again into the brijjhter beam of the reflector, one of which, it will be imderstood, is only in sight at a time. This is an important obHervation to the sailor, in distinguishing one fixed light firom another, of different descriptions of apparatus. When a revolving light is required, a number of these reflectors is fixed to the rides of a triangular or quadrangular iron fitunet and the whole caused to revolve in rvgnliur periods, by means of clockwork. The reflectors on each side of the revolving fnune, from four to eight in number, are thus successively directed to every point of the horizon ) and the combined result of tiieir rays forms a flash of greater or lea duration, according to the rapidity of their revolution. From the amount of divergence the period during which such a light will remain visible is firom 12 to 16 seconds, the light graduaUy increasing, and as gradually diminishing. And as the action of the reflector is only in the diroction to wnioh it u plaoad, the intervals between the flashes will be quite dark, for a shorter or loncer ptilod, aooording to the distance firom which it is viewed, whether it is beyond that to which the unasnsted flame will reach. LIGHTHOUSES AND TH^R ILLUMINATION. M Hie light from a revolving catoptric or reflectiiig lysteui ii much brighter thaia from a, fixed l&ht on either pHiiciple, as you have the combined effect of Mveral reflectors, each of wnich gives an equal amount of light, it is calculated, to 360 to 400 siUsh lights without any rraectors. In floating light-yeaseUi the light is always slurwn firom parabolic reflectors. These are snumer than those uiied in lighthouses, being 12 inches in diameter. For fixed lif hts, eight lamps and feflectors, each suspended on ^vnbals, or on ball and yooket- jomts, so that they alwtys maintain their perpendicularity, notwithstanding the rolling of the Tessel, are arranged in -an octagonal lantern, which goes round the mast, and is hauled up to the mast-head when on service, and is let down on the dedc during the day, or whilp the lamps are trimming. Revolving lights for floatins light-vessels haye four lipps, and similar reflectors, and the lantern revolves around the mast. An apparatus for producing an intermitting light, of the only appearance to which Buofa a term is applicable, is in use in three of the Scottish lighthouses, th') invention of Mr. Robert Stevenson, It is an arrangement by means of which the light is sud- denly obscured by an eoUpser, and as suddenly appears again at ite full brilliancT. This feature distin^ishes it completely fit>m revolving lighto, which come gradually to their greatest brightness, and as gradually decrease, and tiiis either firom the re- flecting or rcftacting apparatus. There ia yet another sort of reflector in use in France for harbour lighte, called the Bordier Marcet apparatus, from ite inventor, or the sideral lamp. It is used with a single lamp, and consists of a circular reflector, about 13| inches diameter, formed by the revolution of a parabola around its focus in a horizontal plane ; the centre of this is taken out to acbout the lamp, which thus has all around it, above and below, a re- flecting sur&ce, which sends its upward and downward rays in a horizontal direction. The lights in the ensuing list, which are upon the catoptric or reflecting system, are cUstingnished by this mark •. Their magnitude, or order, is not intucated, as only one reflector is usually visible at a time ; the class of the light is to be inferred from its importance. The first notice we have of the use of parabolic reflectors is given by William Hutchinson, in his '* Practical Seamanship," published in 1777, as having been used in the Liverpool lighthouses, erected in the year 1763. The formula for me parabolic curve now used was given by Captain Josepn Huddart. The Dioptric or lenticular system is next to be considered, and depends for ito action on tne refiracting propertiea of glass. In this the apparatus is placed before the flame, and derives ito name, dioptric, froin a Greek word, signifying anything looked through ; or lenticular, from ito being composed of lenses. Ito principle may be thus explained : — When a ray of li^ht passes out of a rarer into a denser medium, as firom air into glass or water, or vtce veraS, it is reflracted, or bent, out of ito original direction. Of course, thia new direction is dependent upon the direction in which it enters into, ox I emerges fh>m, this second medium. This is familiarly explained in the burning-glass, in which it will be seen that a cylinder of parallel rays of the sun entering one side of the lens, arc so deflected, that upon their issuing from it on the other, they form a [tone of rays whose apex is at a certain distance, dependent on the curved side or sides I of the lens, called the focal distance. In the application of plano-convex lenses of 3 feet focus, to the controlling of two- I fifths of the entire sphere of light, they must be 2 feet 6 inches in diameter, and if Iconstniotod of the usual form of smaller lenses, would be several inches in thidcness lip the middle. This would occasion serious inconveniences : a large portion of the ■light would be abaorbed in ito passage i there would be great difficulty in procuring Much ft mass of glass of anything approaching to uniform density, whion is necessary |to ittproper action { and it would oie also of very great weight, and oonsequentiy, b« lof diflionlt management. To obviate these difficulties (for a burning-glass), it occurred to Sir David Brewster 100 I4QHTH0ySES AND THEIR ILLUMINATION. in 1611, and to M. Augurtin Fre^nel in 1$19, thfit the same optical effeotfi might he pieflenwd if a large portion of the solid part of the lens were removed { heoanae the tjefhietivei properties of the lens depend upon the relative direction of its Rorfhoet. Ihey therradre' prbposed the lens now in use for lighthouse purposes. It is called the polyxonal or an""''" lens, because it oonsists of a series of Eones or rings, instead of Deing'^. one uiiifbrm curve or surfkoe. It is a plano-convex lens, having the curved surfitoe cut into rings, which are brouffht into one plane, and the relative direction of the outer curved surfSeuw to the inner flat one is preserved in the separate rings of which tile lens is built. There is one neat advantage in this method, that the lens may he built to any size, and yet not oe thicker, and may be made square, so as to economise every portion of light which may be thrown on the zones of tne breadth of ^ir diametw. The dioptric system was perfected by the late M. Augustin Fresnel, the director of the Frenon lights, and is sometimes called by his name. For a revolving light of the first order, or largest size, eight of these lehses are' fparatus is 4 feet 7'13 inches in diameter, and is illuminated by a lamp with three wicks of 2*6 inches, 1*8 inches, and *9 inch in diameter, re- spectively, and is indicated by the figure 2. 8. The third order ik subdivided into two siaes, larger and smaller. The first appa- ratus fgrand meddle) is 3 feet 3*38 indies in diameter j and the second (petit modSe) 1 footT'69 inches in diameter. They are each illuminated by a lamp wiu two wicks, the larger of 1*61 and '807 inches diameter respectively, and tiie smaller of 1-20 and •589 inches in diameter. They are shown in the list by tiie figure 3. All the lights of this order in the English Cnannel are of the larger sice. ' 4. Thefaurih order, or harbour light, is also subdivided into two sizes, the larger (grand meddle)! foot 2'77 inches in diameter, the smaller (petit module) 11'81 inches in diuneter. They are illuminated by a single cylindrical wicked lamp of '94 inch or •85 inch in diameter. As the sub-division of this order is unnecessary to the sailor it is distinguished in the list by the figure 4. In addition to the magnitude of the apparatus, the description of it will also serve usefolly to distinguish one light from another. Therefore, the different systems em- • " Holophotal :" from two Oreek words, signifying " whole light" LIGHTHOUSES AND THRlR ILLUMINATION. 10» pl6jred, M described in the foregoins paragraphs, are derignated by the letten a, b, c, 4^ attached to the figures indicating tneir sizes, as follows : — a. AJbetd ^Uoptrio light apparatus, having a dioptric belt and catArdioptrio prb- matio cones. This is the most perfect system for fixed light apparatus. b. A rtvohing li^ht apparatus, condsting of eight polyzonal lenses, surmonnted by the oata-dioptric pnsms. The appearance of this light, beyond the distance cHf Sor 10 miles, according to the size of the apparatus, is that of a brilliant flash of 7 to 9 seconds^ duration. Within that distance the fiunter light between the flsishes is visible. e. KJixtd liffht, varied by ,/fo«A«a. Its appearance, which distinguishes it from any other, upon close attention, is, 1st, the intensi^ and duration . yellow or reddiih tinge. Lights may be divided into three classes according to their nautical importance :— 1. CoMt lufhtt, those which serve for the mariner to recoenise the land on approach- ing it, and are thus of the greatest power ; they are mariced in the follovring lists in capital letters, thu»— USHaNT, LIZARD, &c. 2. ffarbour and Leading Lights. — These, of less importance than the former in thii general system, are used to indicate a port or narrower channel. Some of these, though mora limited in their immediate object, may be as important as the first class. Thus the Gull Stream light-vessel, though of limited approaches, is most nseftil in marking the centre of the Goodwin ; it is therefore placed among the first class. The second class is shown in small capitals, as — Shoeehau, Chebbocxq, &c. 3. Tide Ughtt show when a harbour has a certain depth of water and is accessible. They are freqnentiy red, and, consequently, are of less power. They are mariced in itahos, as Banugate, Boulogne, &c. Farther details aro given and alluded to in our recent Work, " A Description and List of the Lighthouses of the World, 1661," to which the reader is referred. :}-^'' ,vy.- 'i*^a3;wi.;^';«f?^- ^i^ip'- I ) EXPLANATION OF THE TABLES. NAME AND CHARACTER OF LIGHT— First Column. IbB jprindpal OOMt lights are given in oaj^tala, m K. FORELAND. Secondary lights in - naallw oapitalB, as SBonBaAH EUaAotrB. Tide lights in italics, as Sanugatt. The dumeter «r fhe l%^t loUowB its name. GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION— Second Column. The latitudes and longitadee here given are nresomed to be aooorate, within less than IV fur all the coasts of tiie Atlantic Ocean and its Seas. In other parts of the world it may yvtj somewhat more ; but there is no great disorqiancy, such as would lead to serious cooaequenoes, by takuog any one of them as a p(nnt of departure. DESCRIPTION OF THE LIGHT, &c.— Third Column. £& fhla, any neouliarity of the light, or period of a Tide light, is noticed ; and also the direction o7 double lights, la. many cases the bearing of two lights when in one will ' lead dear of a danger, as the 8. Foreland in one, W. by-K., dears S. end of the Goodwin, fto. Special directions will ezplaitf this. DESCRIPTION OF APPARATUS— Fourth Column. Sa this, tlie signs ' ed to indicate the sort of light apparatus in use in eadi case:— • signifies a catoptric, or reflector light. (See page 14, £0.) la, 2. 8d, &c., indicate dioptric, or lens Ughta, the figure showing the order or' size, 1st, 2od, 3rd, to 6th order. (See page 26.) a, a fixed lenticular light. (Page 22.) b, a revolving lenticular light. (Page 21.) 0, a fixed andflashing li^t (Page 23.) d, a holophotal light. (Page 26.) These figures and letters will serve to explain the peculiarities of the Lenticular System, as in operation therein. HEIGHT ABOVE HIGH WATER- Fifth Column. This ^ves the height of t^e JIatM in feet above the highest tide level, consequently it is its minimiiin height, and is increased by the tidal range of the dace. The height of tiia Lighthouse itself, firom base to summit, is given sometimes in tne third odumn. VISIBLE IN MILES— Sixth Column. This gtvM the minimum distance to which the light can be seen, in clear weatiier, firom » height of 10 feet above the sea level. But in the case of the prindpal lights this but im- ' penectly represents their nmge, as they could be seen at any di-:'tanoe attainable by moniased devation. In the use of «oloured lights this range is given according to their pxeisfumed power. YEAR.ESTABLISHED— Seventh Column. The date of the first exhibition of the light is usually given ; but its diaraoter, &o., may have been frequently changed in the interval. LIGHTHOUSES. y light! bl igatt. Vm leas fhaa IV rorld it may tdtoattioua and alsotlia I in 006 will )he Goodwin, the order or' r System, as lently it is its lieight of the lithfil^l ttom A" y this bat im-' LttainaUe ly ■ to their er, &c., may nOLAXD. ThMiM Vonfli. Nhm and Ohaneter of Ui^ Lone. B. DCMllptloiLi Ao. ^^ BrVBB THAMES Novthfleet Hope Point Fort UncUng Pkt, File light Houae GhapmaaHead Southend Pierrhead Shflemen - KOBE LIOHT-YESS. One br. rev. It imjn, . OnDum Lr.-yBuai. One br. rev. It. i min. PaoTcn Chahit. Lt. Vn. One fwf rev. It 20 seca. UnUUhglitia fairway; rtdovm aadiorage in QvaTeaoad Beach and BTondncm t>»i«««it ,«4€huMt«r • . 4M. Lony. E. 1 l< JTO^TH FOBBLAND i 51 »-5 Ovbrijl^t fixed Ugkt 1 a6.8 White towor 78 A hifi^ ▲ atrip of rNf It to £. ond of Margate Soad GOODWIN LT.-VES8. niree la\ fixed li|^ta 5» f sa a6. 5» I aXJIX 8TBEAH LT.V. 1 51 One lir. rer. It., 20Moe. f i 80.8ANDHD.LT.YES. t 51 One bright fixed light | 1 80TITH FORELAND I 51 Two br. fixed lights | i DOVEit 51 OneerNnlight 1 MtilUULitkU Mm Ughton Admiralty Pier IMIit»tim$ TUe Light 1 5| '9. IS- »7- so- lo. s8. M-4 7- «9- While 10 iMt The low^TMN It is diiiMf* tO! tW. with 10 feet arMf tik d»ll by oaf . • ., Off the N. end of the Goodwin I Sands, in 9 fathoms | On the W. edge of the Goodwin I Sands, in Sf&thoms | Off the S. end ef the Goodwin I Sands, in 18 fiithoms | In one W. by N., 1,847 foot apart N. ner : one red\t. while 7 feet 8. Pier: one red It while 7 to 10 ft ; two ml Its. while 10 to IS feet The grtm light only ^ward the entrance la 1 184 1 19 i lase 4a I 87 I O].... • I 28 1 10 1 1703 t I 14 I 7 J 1809 • I 88 I 10 1 1832 la r 372 I 25 I 1763 • I 276 I 22 I 1842 • I .. I .. I 1842 .. .. .. 1862 VAB^ LT-YESSEL | 50 One red, qidek revoL It | 1 DUNGENE8S One bright flx»d light M^ TUkliahU ' J 50 Two bright fixed Its. 1 b 5- II. 56. 18. I io 54.« I I 5S-3 1 One fixed rMf light, whUe 10 feet | • | 90 | < 1 1810 • I 86 i 10 I 1860 la I 92 I 14 1 1789 In 16 fethoms at Ti^. evd. of the | Shoal..... I 57. Hastotos 1 50 i%. One bright, one rf# It I 036. A rti tover on the point Fog bell [ On N. aide o£ the entrance while 10 ft; in one N. by W. 640 I feetapait .................. In one, N.N.B., 608 fiset apart, to direct the fiaheiteen (September I 29 and March 26) 26| 4| .... \\\ ■■\Z\V-' Eastt< me BEACHT HEAD A br. rev. light, 2min. Kbwhatxh Abr.fixedltftTiAK. 5045- o 17. 50 44.» o ia.9 5047- o 4. A lamp in the fishing season.... I .. I 10 | S | .... A white lighthouse, 47 feet high, I « | 286 { 22 1 1828 on sommit of Belletout Cliff. . ' On the W. per. The tide It rft* ; between 10 and 18 fieet; brigl ' ! I above 18feet...»*»t*«i*t*««> I -1 *?i f}:.. LatN. LoDf.W. J«47 o 4. BuosTOM Ci ^^if«. I ^o ^4! I Onepvmfixed%ht t .. | 86 ] 10 1 1824 8KOBBHAK'xTi >.% I W JO. A br. fixed vi \r«f] c 15. TUe Liff^ On central pier, bright 2V»lis^t I 4a I 42I10|182( while 11 feet, but rwlat H. W. .. ~ "SJ littlehamptoa \^lft\ I A fixed fMf light on R pier ....]•! 80| 9 1 1848 P i m OW Oj BiMI T% ST. ( Oa Wak r., f^^ ox One SoUTb Tw< CaL8B( One li Tarmo One: NEED] Onel HrHST J Two! Pooix IVoi Onore PORTLi High. Low It POHTIAJC: Onefis Shamblb One fix Onerw IIOBTllOUftBi. tn 1 19 1 liise I M ; 1 10 1 1798 \\ 7118W 5 1 10 1 1832 2 I 2ff 1 17»S 6 I 22 I 184'it ,.|..|lW2 961 611810 86 1 10 1 1860 92 I li 1 1789 6| 41 .... el 8| 601 71 ...« so) 4| 10| 2| •••• 86 I 22 1 1838 85 1 10 1 1624 4allO|l83S K«M w^ Okanwtar or Light i;4wc.w. DcMiiptkniy 4e0« s OWEBS LT.-VE88BL I 50 39.7 i On t 8.B. «id o tlw Owen | • | 88 | 10 1 1768 One bright flzed ligkk | o 39.9 | Shoai, ia 19 l!irtlioaui »«#..,.. BiMfmiD«a Lr'-VitBUb I 50 41.7 I Near fhe Knb Itock, off Bern- Two bright fixed liglitoj I 1^1 bridge Point, in 6 fitthonui.... ST. CATHERINE'S One brilliant &(ed It ▲ haadione atone tower, 106 feet I la high 50 34-1 I 17.8 -Vmmu I 50 43.8 I In 18 fiitiionM. on the Eaatem tlmin. I I 4. I partof thoSnoal... ,j. 'Z.rny.r'VmnML r.dV, TvvoM i\M SoOlil.VACARTLB One »%4 flii»d lifl^t Soi)niA.iinoNPnB Two fixed rMffighto CaUHOT lilOHT-YEABn. One bright rovol. light 1 min. Tabmooth Castlb One fixed light NEEDLES OuTRB Rock One fixed Gght I ....4. I A bright fixed light | 6a 150 46.6 ] A Btrong r«f light on Ortitle. I 5.1 1 Showi frem from W. of the 1 SfdtBuogr... 150 53.7 I Li one, lead op the Channel. Alao I I a44l tworHflta.attheI>oduinonei I If^V I 5048. 4 0ffObUhotOMtle,in8|flithonui . t 16. I I I 50 39-7 « 34-5 HVRST Bbacr Two bright fixed lights Foou Two m) light* Swanage Pier Wktmojth One reil fixed light PORTLAND High It., br. and fixed Low It, br. and fixed 50 4S.4 I 3»-9 50 41- I 58. I SO J7' 2 a6, 50 31-3 » 17.3 JM lUht la centre load* in; bfifit or green, outride Show* Ran (except between W. and W.N.W.), when it ahowi Wam. Showi Wain alio to N,E.byE. iE. Afidntlt. hiride WordeuLedge Roojr. Fog belL In one, N.S. by i E., 766 feet aikurt. Another lifllhtin the low I In one, K, | MT. ; 786 feet »part 1 on It. ride of eptraaoe. Alio I ftmrlightafiuide..^.... { I One fixed light intended On the 8. t^or head la 9t<«6t I •• • #•••#•••• I • • White towert, 82 and 86 ft. htffh near the Bm. In one, N.N.W. f W., 1609 fbet apart.. PoBTLA^ Bobakwatsb 1...... I On the end of the Btogo. ....... One fixed rMfUght Shamblbs Shoal Lt. Vie. | »».... One fixed light la Lffme Regie Tide Lighte | 50 43.5 One red, one green light | a 35.9 On E. end of GHioal, In 16 feu. From half flood to half obb. In one, N.W. \ N., 826 tt. apart 66 I 10 I 1812 28| 8| 178 I 18 I 1840 88 I 8 I 1864 21 I 12 I 1852 ai I 9 1 \%n. .. I .. I 1641 82 t 9 I 1842 12| .. I 1837 80 I 9 I 1869 66 I 12 I 1812 29 9 1786 37 I 6 I 1848 16 .. I .. I 1861 28 I 21 I 1863 222 I 19 I 1716 146 16 1769 80 I 9 i 1861 88 I 10 I 1869 11 I . . I 1868 21 4 MS mKfi^.A3n, LIGHTHOT78ES. UomkOmH. yuM and Ounetar of Light. LM.N. Long. W. DomiptloOf co« I TmOltMOVTR Two mf fixed lights Bbixhak One rMf fixed light Torqtiay Pier Head i Dajliuovtb One TMi fixed Ugbt STABT POINT One brilliant lerolTing li^ht, Tinble every minute Fltmoutr Bbsakwatui One bright and one red light .. . Pltkovtr Harboub One bright fixed light EDDYSTONE One brilliant fixed It I so 24. 3 SO- SO ?7J 3 3«- 50 ao. 3 33- 50 13.3 3 38.3 50 ao.4 4 9-5 50 aa. 4 7- 50 10.8 4 i5'9 Oneona limeaioiiietoweron8.W. I • | 81 1 61 1 184d and of Denn ; other on a honae | I On aa Iron itaad on the pi» I • i 20 | 6 1 1889 I head... — I One fixed fwf light h'll^l ff i 1852 W.aideofentamoe |«1 80 1 10 1 1867 A white tower, 94 feet hig^ A fixed It., 102 ft. high, is alao vis. from tower, when it bears 8. of W.8.W. A bell in fogs On W. end ; bri^t to seaward, but red E. of N.E. i E. from it. A lower br. It is seen when the channel is open. A bell during foga A tower, 20 feet bigh, on the W. Barbican pier head . la I 204 I 19 I 1886 2a 68 48 9 I 1844 »••••• tee* FAUtOTTTR One rev. It in 20 sees. LIZARD Two brilliant fixed Its. WOLF ROCK One light, proposed Unuanet Tide light A fixed red light, while 16 ft inside; freen while less L0NG8HIP8 •■ "• One brilliant fixed It 8EV. 8T0NESLT.VES. Two bright fixed li^ts SCILLT ' One br. reTol. It ereiy minute BISHOP ROCK One fixed bright light SO 8.6 4 595 49 J7« 5 ».i 49 5«.7 S 48.a 50 7. 5 3«. An admirable red and tehUe stone tower, 89 ft above foundation on the rook, which covers 14 ft at high water. Bell in fogs A white tower, 62 feet high, on 8t Anthonjrs Point Two white towan, each 61 fbet high, W. f N. and E. f 8., 223 feet apart, on the Liiard Cliff (Proposed, on the sock.) A V7hite bulldlnar, 22 fbet h%h, on the 8. pierhead. By day, a ball whih} 16 feet • I 29 I 6 I 1829 2a I 72 I 13 I 1769 • I 72 I 12 I 1836 232 20 20 1751 I ..|.. 11861 6a I 83 I I 1866 SO 4.1 I A white square tower, 61 feet I • | 79 | 14 | 1796 SS4-7| Ugh I 20 I 10 I 1841 88' 4J53.I ao.7 • I 138 I 16 I 1680 so 3a. I On the E. «do of the rocks, in 40 6 7.3 I fethoms. Two red balls A white tower, 74 feet high, on the summit of St Agnes' Island , 40 s>-5 I On the 8.W. rock. A noblo I la { 110 | 16 | 1868 6 16.6 I stone tower, 147 feet high. . . . | to^i r ■■ i'. < i A fii^ V, UElHTSOVSES; H^ap^OoMfc^ lot ¥ ii I «1 1 18^ 14 1 6|1889 1 5 1 1852 > 1 10 1 18S7 1 1 19 1 1836 8 1 1844 8 0| 8 11822 2iia u 769 waAObantAmUUgbt. UX.V. DcforiptkN^ vo» 8\'Im$ Tid$ Zifkt One bright fixed Ught» while 10 lb«t jBktffc TUkLkhU Two flzad bright Itt. OODBSYT One flaahinglt, 10 sees. TBEYOSE HBAD Two bright fixed lights Briitol OhaaneL LUNDY ISLAND Upper It, rev. in 2 min. Lower fixed lifl^t Bidefori Earhomr. Two bright fixed Iti. IlFBACOMBB One r$d fixed light BcBN pAV, or Bbidoiw. Upper light, intermit- ting Lower light, fibnd Avon One bright fixed light Em OLUK USD WCUR Oroumm Lt.-Yimbj. One br. rev. It 1 min> FLATHOLM One bright fixed light Uax RivBR One bright, one rtdli. CAHDirr NASH POINT Two bright fixed Itf. SWANBKA HAllBOirm Ontrtdjlxtd light MUMBLES One bright fixed light HitwTCK Liout-Virbbl Ono br. rev. It 1 inin. UmuUff Two fixed lightii I On the iner head. Li^^ted from I • | 28 | 7 | 1881 I 1st S^tember to SOth /^ '^ I I N. 25* E. and 8. 26" W., 207 ft. I • I apart, while 12 fisel water.,.. I 50 r4. I On flie Island. A bell in fogs.. I Ic 5 a4. I I 50 32.9 I Hie lower light is 80 fieet to sea- I la 5 s.i I ward of ihe upper | la In one tower, 96 feet high. Low I lb light visible to W. between | • N.N.W.andW.8.W. | In one, S.E. i S., lead over bar ; from i fiood to i ebb. A rtd ball by day , , , From the Lantern Hill (Michael- mas to Lady-day) ...,,..... Upper tower white; lower with black streak, E. by 8. i S., 1,600 feet apart Upper light bright, 8| mm., obsowred ^min. SO 10.0 1 4 40-3 S» 4. 4 IS. J« »3- 4 7. 51 14.9 a 59-9 5» 300 a 42.3 »58. 51 ai.s 3 7- 51 3>- 3 o. 51 at. 3 10. Ji 14- 3 33> 5» 37- 3 J«- 5' 34- 3 58» 5» 3»- 4 «4' 51 40. 4 104 White tower, 66 fiaet, on the E. side. A rtd ray to N.W. | N. On S. side of Bristol Channel, in 6 fethoms; a rtd ball, gong, gmi, &0. A white tower, 80 feet high, on the 8. point W. side of entr., the red It 20 ft I below ; ^ light also to N.E. 2a la On the pier (intended) White towers, 1 ,000 ft apart, S.E. byE. iE., &i;.W. byW. iW. While 8 ft., black ball by day. Also two rtd or green Its. on new S. Docks A white tower, 60 feet high, ad- Joining the Fort In 10 fkthoma, off the W. end of Stmd, a red ball, gong, gun, &c. One on 8. end of Breakwater, one on Whitafbrd Point, from \ flood to i ebb 81 1 6 I 1840 69 1 I 120 1 1< i 1869 204 I 90 I 1847 129 17 540 I 81 I 1820 470 1 86 1 14 I 1820 40 11 100 I 15 I .... 91 I 16 I 1882 23 9 70 1 18 I 1840 38 I 10 I 1838 156 I 17 I 1889 .. I .. I 1839 89 I 10 I 1821 .. I .. I 1860 167 I 18 I 1832 122 I 16 I 28 I 9 I 1808 114 I 16 I 1798 38 I 10 I 1846 86 I 7 I 1860 .. I .. I 1864 ^i» gmum. UGHTHOTTSBS. «r light. UtN. DitoriptMif 4vB« .^ I One fixed Ught 8*min'$foot, 8. Pier CALDT ISLA17D One briglit fixed light ST. ANN'S POINT. 15141. I While 10 liMt ««ter |«i M| • |, lOnerMfltorydLhallwhileSft. I I Oneriif I J XiTim Wiu. Lr.-YnsBi, 1 53 1.7 | In 87 fitthomoff the hook of the I • | 84 1 10 1 1828 One qvkk ?eToL Ijghl | o 35. | LongSand ,. ( DoDOioir LiOHT-Yxi. On« hrightflssedlighl ^rVUS LxQBT-YuSBIi Chie hr. ter. It. i mis. I 51 15. I In 9 Mhoms near 8. ride of the | • I 88 1 10 1 1736 \ •S6. I Shoal I LaO&ihomsoffthePoint |«| 38110(1820 53 34- I o 13. I 1776 18«1 8PUBN POINT I 53 34-7 I In <«« N.W. i N. (158 yards I la I 93 1 16 I Two bright fixed lights | o ^.»\ (.part). The low light to K.W. | 4a | 64 1 12 1 |tIVEB^U|fBEB BnU Sand Lt-YeaMl | ...... | One bright fixed It off Spam Pt | • i 21 1 10 1 1882 Iw.Loa. I I StaningboronghFeny | .,..,. | One bright fixed It to W.S.W. | • | .. t .. 1 1849 53 39. I Lights in one N.W. lefid up the • I 68 1 11 I 1836 o la. I nver, and when S. by W. lead I 36 | | 1862 [, dowa I I One bright fixed light !•( 86 | 7 | 1886 53 44 o 16. Sillisffhobn Three br. fixed Its. Taxia. Sebblea Light Yessel One rtd flxedligkt One ^ht fixed light FLAMBORO' HEAD One ^Tol. lighti. 2 niin. bright, ' bright and rtd alternately One fixed light, rtd to seaward HIGH "WHITBY Two bright fixed lights "WhITBT HA.&BOTrK 0IM grtm tide light On^ r«i or green light TEES BAT Bhan Sand High br., low rtd It In '6 fins, on S. side of Channel, I • I 16 | 6 | 1839 near Holl | 54 5.9 I On the North Pier-head while 9 I .. | 24 | 8 | 1862 o 11.7 I feet water. ,...., 54 < P 4- 54 «7. o %3. A white tower 87 feet high. Blear- ing N.N.E. dean N. end of Smithio While 10 iiBot water; on Yinpent I Pier. A ball by day........ 54 98.7 I In one S. 1^ E. i E. (268 yards o 34.2 54 30- o 37- apart). A red light firom N. tower over the Scar Orten tide light on W. Pier trom. 8 hours flwid to 2 hours ebb. E. Pier light rtdto S. butfmw toN. of Book buoy • I 214 I 20 I 1806 I 68118)1806 la I 840 I 28 i 1868 83 I IS I 1831 64 10 1866 54 38. I Wooden towers shifted occasion- 1 • I 63 I 11 I 1839 I 13. I ally. In one lead over the bar | | 38 | 10 | Care Sand Lt-yeiis. I I One fixed light. There are 8 I • | 20 | 7 | 1836 I I small lights up the Tees . . . . | SiATOH t 54 40* I lu one N.W. by W. (118 yards I • I 89 I 13 I 1839 Highbr.. low mf H. I i la. | apart) | | 84 | | HARTLEPOOL I 54 41.8 I On the Hengh. The rtd Hie It. I la I 84 I 16 I 1847 High bright, low rt4\ 1 10.4 ^mhalf flood to half ebb.... I 4a 62 I 4| TtdtUgM I > u« MiOteMtetrUght Ut.N. Iioaff. B. ' DMai^tUBtte. HarUepodOUHaitNiur | ...... I JMUjAtMPfar, tnorNlBgfati I ouQiiay .. I .. i Its* WlutSarhmr I I Grwult o&N. Flw, two f«ilM. | .• | .• | #« | llM I I SlAHAX I Upper Iwight fixed It, low mfxvv.tt. imiB. Stakam Harbour SVHDUOAin) One bright, one r$d It on N. Pier, on$ tright Mb Ufkt on S. Pier in one lead in while 10ft. water I boiMftaM tower M ftet h%^ on Bed Acre Point tel Ml 1411848 6 I 49 1 11 1 1857 I I JM tide light, when practicable I • I .. | .. 1 1846 S4 55-; I SI.6 TUb lifht tma. i flood to i ebb, a grmt light below it ahowB danger ... 8a I 73 I 14 I 1803 «a 68 4 18«7 TTNEMOUTH 155 t.i I ▲•fun white tower 79 ft )iigh, I • | 184 1 18 1 1803 One br. rev. It 1 min. | i 24.9 | nearPrioryBqinaintheOartle | TtrnTUtLighU I 55 o. I At N. ShieUs, from i flood to i • 1 138 1 16 1 1808 I a6. I ebb: in one W. bjr IT., 340 | 77 | IS i I I jraidaapart BWtk,twtirightTii$lU.\ I While 8 ft. water ; in one N. by I • | 11 1 48 | 1788 I W.f W. «. CoqqbtIbijmd One bright fixed Ui^t 55 sa. I A rMf ray toward Hanxley Ft I 3s. I bnoVfUidnNfoTertheBoiilmer la I 88 I 14 I 1841 WarhoortkrtdTiiilt. | | WhOe 10 ft. water. OnB.Pier|..| .. | 111848 • I 87 1 16 I 1776 FABN ISLAND Upper light rev. i min., lower fixed 55 3<-9 I 58.9 Two white towen in one N. by W. i W., 187 yards apart .. liONGSTONB 1 SS 39* I Bed tower on the Book , One br. rer. It ( min. | 1 37. | • t 76 1 14 1 1836 BuwiokomTwud 1 55 45.9! Low r«r It while 10 fset on Bar. I • I 44111! •• UFp«rbr.,J^«MrrMrM. I 1 58.9 ) On tlie Pier-head | I 38| 8| 18 1 1831 1866 11 10 1839 71 1836 13 1839 16 4 1847 «i*^»t» ii' V: -rtti ; 1 rhiu^Jb ...... I . "* 1 C » >■ i ffSfyt-^.'-ij', im' NXa fc: iM M0KUV9. UaHTBOUBES. Btil0QMl» Nam* tad OhaiMlir of Ilfht UX.V. DtMriptHBi M> hi Sywnouth \Vt |5« a. I 3 i- 55 59- 3 lo. I ST. ABB'S mSAD One bright fixed ligbt DmnuBOMJSbrfowr 156 o. ■■ FMefMiJETarioNr | a 30.7 INOHEEITH One br. tev. It 1 min. FlSHBUtOW One fixed light ItUk B*i light on E. pier 7F%t<«light on W. pier NtwKavm Gbahtoit GllANOSMOtTTH One fixed light Imtxiixsithino Burntithmd Eatt Fitr Fnrff Fier A fixed light on each ElBKOAlDT One fixed light BuckhaTen St. Mom ah One nd, and one hr. It Prri'BMWBBM Three fixed fMllifl^ts la !• I J« 4. 3 14. S6 3 OnarMf fixed light ..>.»».*.*.. I Building (1860) I One fixed br. light at each, firam Jnlj to October A white tower, 45 feethigh .... I 2b On flie ider head ; all night, ex- cept in mooolifl^t A frmt It under the vhU4 one on W. pier while 8 ft. ; the othh changed to r$d when Dodc gatei are open One bright lij^t on the pier. . . . One niiflie^t on pier head .... At the entrance of the Biver Oatron Two rMflights on W. Qoay .... Also a nnall r«d It at Newhalla, and a whit* one atQueenefeny, for paaaage boats only OuE. pierhead. J2wf to seaward; whiU when Harbour is open. . I.. I I , I A lehiU light on E. pier head . . | a 56 ia.j 3 46.3 56 13- a 43-5 Anstrvthvs I 56 13.3 OnerMfandoneffimlt | a 41.8 CBLLABDTXa One fixed rnf light ISLE OP MAY Two brilliant fixed Its. BELL BOCK One rev. light, bright and red alternately, every 2 minutes ST. ANDREWS Two fixed lights 5« II. I a 33-3 56 36.1 a a3' 56 ao. a 47- One on pier head ; the other on a house Two on pier head, and one on a building, Not lighted between May 15 and July 15. In bad weather a br. eas It, 60 feet high, vis. 7 mues, is shown whileOfeet N.E. i N. and S.W. i S. from each other. Aug. to April . . On a house, in W. of Harbour; only while boats are out .... On the summit of the island, N.E. side; N.N.E. i E., and S.S.W. i W., 760 feet apart A tower, 117 feet high; on the Bell Bock, at 10 feet below high water. A bell is sounded every half minute in fogs .... On the pierhead, and a turret in Cathedral wall 220 20 28 20 83 13 28 29 17 20 .. 1867 .. 11860 c. I 1867 18 I 1804 6 1 1889 10 1 1829 «l 6 I 1846 10 I 1847 .. I 1866 8 I 1846 .. 11863 9 I 1864 .. I 1866 .. i 26 1 6 1 1863 .. 72 6 I 20 I 4 I 1848 la I 240 I 21 I 181S • I 110 I 16 I 1844 • I 00 I 14 I 1811 • I SO I 6 I 1826 6a I 100 I 6 1849 Ill •"4 2J .. |1M 7 t • |1M lOOlUflfB. UOHTHOTJSES. Stit OoMb lit .. I I8ff7 18 1 1804 \ 6 1 1889 1 10 1 1829 I «l I 6 I 1845 I 10 1 1847 I ..|1856 8 I 1846 1853 l.'l I 81 9 I 1854 .. I 1865 6 I 1853 6 *l 1848 21 15 181G 1844 14 I 1811 6 1 1825 5 1849 Xaat oA OhUMtn of Urlkt. UILV. LoBf.'W. Dimiri|ittiiii| te« BUDDONKESBorTAT I 56 aS.i Two teilliaat flzad Ito. i a 44.9 FoBT - I 46. 57 4«.5 a 0. 57 4a. a .<• 57 40- a 30. 57 40- a 31. On N. pier head, from half flood to high water. When entrance is safe the two Its. are rtd: when ships cannot enter, ;r0*N .... A stone tower, on the Ness .... WhiU on elbow of W. Pier in S. Harbour; and fMf, on W. Pier, in N. Harbour On uer head, and Middle Pier ; SiE. by E., and N.W. by './., 228 ft apart, from July to April A stone tower, 76 feet high, on | theHead • I 71 MO I 1820 • I 46 I 8 I • I 80 11611820 • 85 11 1846 101 71 .... 16 8 .|,.|7|..« • I 24 I 8 I 1826 • I 60 I 10 I 1818 85 11 • I 18 I 6 I 1880 24 la I 185 I 19 I 1888 • I 116 I 16 I 1842 • • 40 8 • » 47 8 • • 80 .> . f: Sf tV> '■'■vsA', Blfin and Lmtmouth OOYESEA SKWRRTB8 I 57 43.1 One rev. It 1 min. \ i ao.3 • 1 130 I 16 1 1827 at 24 I 10 I 1834 a I 26 1 10 I 1849 .. I 86 I 6 I 1841 la i 120 i 15 I 1851 • I 25 I 6 I 1829 One «>A»<« light on N. pierhead, .. ( 28 | 8 1 1851 and one high white It, with lower fAf It in the upper part ■, ^ . .^.o'a of the New Harbour • I One ^rwnlig^ton 8. pierhead.. ) .. | 80 | .. ( 1858 On Craig Head. It is rtd from | lb I 160 I 18 I 1846 B. E. by E. i E., to 8 J!, i S. I The rest is bright j On the W. pier head , '»*>'! •" fc*<* M18 MOVtAll). LIQHTH0U8ES. LoB(. W. DCMnptMHf SCa fi ^ OaAiroHaT Poim Abrisbtilzfldlifl^ Oboxaxtt Ponrr OnatwIizedUi^ TABBET KESS OiM Mtnw. It, Sniin. Two find wMtlii^ti XathtroHwhttl One flx«dwA(«« light WlOK or PU JU T JMI I Towx K0S8HEAD -One rer. It l^Jf min. DUNNET HEAD One bright fixed light FENTLAND SKEB. Two bright fixed lights BoUUBK One fixed lifl^t 57 34.5 i 4 5- 1 57 41. I 4 *. 57 5». 3 4«- 57 56. 4 0. 58 16. 1 3 "9 5«a<. 3 5- 58 a8.6 3 3-t 1A towei^ 48 Ibet hk^ on the | Pdnt \ I A tower, 48 fbet hig^ on xne Point.... Bririit 2| ndn., edimed i min. ; within Moray lUth it U visible alwiiyi Two LaatemB; one on Point; N.W. i K, and S.E. i 8., 150 bet apart I On 8. Head, attheendof flihing I I aeaBon | 58 3 40.3 aa.3 58 ■ i 41.4 55-4 I ^' 37-5 I I 3 318 I On the N. ptar head, dozing July I aadAof^ut | Prom N.R | N. to W.N.W. the I It is r«f; the rest, to seawmd, I i« bright I A stone tower on the northern* | , meet ptnnt of Scotland | Two stone towers, 118 and 88 ft. high, N.N.E. and 8.8.W., 100 feet apart <.. Building on the Head t..%l«4» i Orkney Idaadi. Caiitiok Onebr. rer. It, 1 min. Hot 8ovxi> Highlt, mforioAtlf Iiow lig^t, bright ElBKWAIX One bright fixed Bght STABT POINT One fixed bright light N. B0NALD8HA One br.flash.lt 10 1 2b I A whitetower, 78 ft hi^ onihe Head,HoyId. The low It (br.) is on N.W. Pt The high It is rMltoward Hot Sound ; wMU between S.S.B. andW.8.W. The towers stand 8.K i K, and N.W. i W., 2,287 yards apart 58 59.1 1 On the jder head, from August I • « 57-5 I toApril I 59 16.6 I A stone tower, on E. Point of | 4a '9 33.4 I Banda Island 59 13.1 1 A brick tower, 189 feet high, on 313.6 I N. Point 8h«tluid Iilaods. SUMBUBOH HEAD One bright fixed li^t BBESSAT One rev. red and tohiU It, 1 min. 585;. I 16. BB GLASS ISLAND One fixed bright light USTBENISH One bright or red It BABBA HEAB One iatermitting light SKEBBTVOBB One rev. light, 1 min. ABDNAMUBCHAN One fixed bright light SOVND OF MrLL One fixed light LISMOBE One fixed bright light LOCH EIL One fixed bright light Ob«a ■ Phladoa Island Grinan Canal > ' } 6p 35.4 I A white tower, 98 feet high, abl 1 lb I Bound Skerry | o 44. I «o 51.3 053- 58 375 5 o- 57 32- 5 5«- 57 »fi-5 5 45- 57 9- 5-47. « 10. 5« "5 57 3»$ 7 4«-6 57 5*- 6 33. 57 15- 7 10. 56 4*- 7 3«. 56 193 7 6.5 56 43-6 6 13s 5<5 38. 6 4. 56 >7-3 5 36.3 JRtd between S.8JI i E., and S.E. by £. i B. A white tower on N. part of lalaad ..%•••.. la White and red alternately , !• N.B. Point of Island I 2o S.W. Point of Gillean Island .. I .. S.E. part of Sleat Sonnd I .. Building on N. Point | .. 200 3rarda apart ; rev. every i I . . miiu, on Ami«h Point ...... | 2b Building on W. Island | la N.E. Point of Island, . Harris I la Isles I E.BideofS.T7i8t. Jtrnf vis. between I la S.S. W. and N.E. by the S. & £. | Vis. 2} min. and dark i min. On top of Bemera Island OntheBodc .....lie OnthePoint I la Bedlt. N. to Sea ; gnem, towards Bocks ; tehiie, towards Mull Sd. On Musdile Island , 5<5 190 5 39-5 I On Corran Point Lt. is rw' be- tween N.E. by E., and S.W. byW.fW. I A Lantern on the Pier | . . Onefixedbr.It,showsr«(ffromN. | .. I One mf light on E. side .,....(.. 14«|18 18H 285 t 21 1 18fi4 400|23 222 I 20 63 I 11 68(12 • • f • t 271 66 I • • ^ • » 130 I 17 176 I 18 680 I 33 150 I 18 180 I 18 66 I 12 103 I 16 86 I 10 42 I 11 26| 4 1828 1867 1867 1867 1860 • • • • 1862 1800 1789 1867 1833 1844 1840 1867 1833 IS60 1868 1860 1861 m MOfLm. UGHT&OtJSlB. Hum wd Clumet* of liffbt. Ut.V. LoBff. W. DoMriptlMit 4ko* i M I? Ibom Book or SoueI lUona I BhoYaii One fixed r«f or 55 5*-5 I Fkopoeed, on the Book 5 5o- I ■••••t* • I M'AnTHm'e Hbad BHTNN8 OF I8LAT One flaah. It, 5 Mot. Port Ellen One fixed bright lifl^t MULL OF OANTTBE One fixed bright light 8ANDA ISLAND One fixed nd light "DA-rAMlULkim One br. nr. It, i min. Oampbelltoa Axdriehaig FLADDA Two fixed bright Ita. CLYDE BIVEB OVMBBAB One fixed bright It TOWABD One br. rev. It, 1 m. Clock One fixed bright It Obbbhock Two red, and 1 whiU light PortGlaagow Cabdbosb One fixed fMf light Bowling Bay Donald'aQoay Broomielaw Auchenleoh Oarmoyle Light Dioldes Light .^., ^. ., 55 5<« « 7-5 'i'il 55 40-3 6 30. 55 3<- 6 11. 55 19. 5 49- 55 «<.5 5 34-9 55 *5-7 5 3».» N. Point of IdayUIand BnUding t«<*i*««*««*»**(i<»> Orenay Idand, off 8. W. Pobxt hrenaT la (tfluay. On Caxraig Fadda Poini^ W. entrance 8.W. Headland of Oaalyxe .... On the Sh^ Book • I Stone tower, 66 fleet hifl^ on E. put ...... I On Old pier head. JM, when I ,beaiingN.W. I A fixed wAftf light on Pier head 55 16.0 I One 62 ft above the other. On 5 7.1 I Id. off S.E. Ft of Axran Id.. . 55 43>3 I ^' Bide of Little Cnmbrae Id. . . 4 5S- I 55 51.7 I On tlie Point 4 S9» I 55 56.6 I On the Point 4 5».« 55 57' 4 45- The rtd ItB., 1 mile N.N.W. of CoBtom House, 140 yds. apart W.S.W. f W., and E.N.B. | . E. The white light in front of Custom House I One fixed red light on W. Quay On the Pillar Bank I Small It at Firth of Clyde Canal I A red light, 200 feet from end . . jABudelight I Au>AtY«lt,}m. above Pt. Glasgow A floating It, 3 miles above Ft. Glasgow A white It, 1 mile above Dum- barton la 2b 1 ..I .. r |1*7| 161 1 -I ..I |160| 171 1 «l 111 12971 22| |166| 161 il20| 17 1 1 18 21 1 26 *l 180 77 17 14 |116 16 1 1 66 11 1 1 76 ..I 40 I860 1869 1860 1826 1863 1787 1860 1864 1860 1790 1793 1812 1797 1834 1829 1 18 1 3| 1 22| 4| 1 12 1 2| 1 26 1 * * 1 f -1 * * 1 1 ..| • a 1 1 ..| * * 1 I .-I 1849 1849 1849 1844 ICNIKLA9SL WMlOOMt HI Kmm wd OhanMtw of U«ht. Loiif. W. o t f, AxdroMMi SidtcMti Tboox Habbovs One br. reroL and 1 fixed rwf%bt AtrHabbovr Two white, 1 rtd iHt, ' fixed Uglits IioorRtaw One fixed bxight %lit COnSEWALL One rti and ¥)MU rer. 2nun. Port Patrick One fixed bright light HITLL of GALLOWAY One intennittingbr. It LITTLE ROSS One fiaah. light, 5 kcs. SotTTHiitNma One fixed bright light AtuMH Xiver One fixed whit0 light 55 3«^ I 4 49-5 1 55 37.9 4 47*4 55 33' 4 4«. 55 **'3. 4 3».4 Cm MtfUfl^ on Bnakwater .. | » | 2S\ < 1 18M I Bright boll'a eye in ml gUua | .« j 26 ( 6 1 1840 I pUte,onPiflr «• .• BeroWei 40 iieea. bright, 20 mm. hidden. N.E. |N.,andS.W. i 8., 850 yaida apart A rti and a br. It. In ono bnild- 283: .. , 35 1' 011827 .. , 35 I 6 I 1848 I 54 577 I I 5 *'0\ 55 0.5 5 9-5 54 503 5 7.0 54 3«.« 4 5»-3 54 4^. 4 5' 54 5«-4 3 35-5 54 57.7 3 16. Ing. 8.E.bvE.iE.,andN.W. bjr W. i W., 283 raida apart JM light while 8 Iset on Bar On CklxnBjran Point |4a| 46 1 10 1 1847 ' 12 35 53 4 10 1700 1826 A white tower, 110 ft. high, on I • 1 112 1 15 j 1817 W. aide of entianoe to JLoch I Bjran , | S.E. angle of Harbour ....k... I .. I 37| 8|1858 On 8. Point Tiaiblo, 2} min. ; I • | 325 | 23 1 1880 invieible, } min. | Onthaldand I lo ( 175 1 18 1 1848 On the Point I .. ( 50 1 11 1 1805 On Annan Foot, from half flood I .. I .. I .. 1 1841 tobalfebb i- toi *. I .tu. in mssLAjm UGHTHOUSES. SomiidtftH Knw «Bd Character of Light. Lat. N. Long. W. Doaeription, fto. "I f PASTNET One rev. light, 2 min. KINSALE One bright or red light, and one bright l^ht CORK HARBOUR, or QUEENSTOAVN BOCRI POIKT * One nd or br. It. Spit Bakk One fMf light Mrklouoh Spit One red light BALLTCOITIN Flashing light, 10 sees. YOVOHAL One bright light MINEHEAD Intorm. light, 1 min. DcNOAnVAN Jied, jfreen, and br. It« WATERPORD Hook Tower One bright light DvNMoBB PisR Head One red light DvircA!rKO!f Pobt Two fixed lights DCNCAXXON S. Ono fixed light BALTEES LT. TESS. I Two fixed bright lights | TUSKAR Xed and br. rev. light East Coast BLACK WATER BANK LT. VE88. One fixed light ARKLOW LT. ^^SS. One br. rev. It., 1 min. St at.j I On the sununit oi the l(pok 9 86.4 I lb I 148 I 18 I 18«4 51 41.8 8 15.2 The It. on 8. Point of Old Head is red over the Horso Rook, and br. to seaward. Br. It. on Ft. Chfurles, £. side of Harbour . . la I 236 • 98 ni 185S 1804 51 47.6 I Sed to Seawttrd ; br. towonU the 8 15.1 I Harbonr. (Bevblr. in 1861 F). 5 1 50.7 I Off Queenstown, on piles, in 9 ft 8 16.4 I water, on £. elbow of Baqk . . On piles, 100 ft. from the Channel i ft 51 49-5 7 59- 51 56.5 7 50-5 5» 59-5 7 35- « 5* 4.4 7 33- » 5» 7.4 < 55-9 On the Outer Island . . , On W. side of entrance. On S. side of Head. Br. 50 sees. ; suddenly dark, 10 sees On Ballinaoonrty Pt Jied over Carriokapane Kock ; tfreen, over Rocks from Ballinncourty Pt. ; and bright in other directions E. side of entrance. Fog bells 51 9. I W. side of entrance. It is bright 6 59.5 I N.ofPier 5a 13.1 I In one tow«r. The lower is a 6 56. I tide light Half mile N.N.E. i E. of the Fort 5s 9.4 I In 32 fathoms, off ConingVg 6 38.] I Rock 53 13. 1 I A flanh of 10 sees, overt' 2 min. ; 6 13.3 I Inight, br. and red ultcruHtuly 5* »9 5 6 7. In 10 fathoms, on N.E. port of Bank WICKLOW ^ •««/ »•« 153 43. I In 22 fathoms, on 8. end of I 6 o. I Bank | I 58 57.8 j In ono, N.W. by W. f W., 180 Ic 3a la 8a 92 I 4 I 1817 32 I 8 I 1808 25| S| .... 195 I 18 I 1850 78 I 6 I 1853 285 I 21 1 1S50 52 I 10 I 1858 152 I 16 I 1859 53 I 10 t 1808 128 I 16 I 1838 10 1824 38 28 101 I 15 I 1815 33 ( 9 I 1860 89 I 10 I 1860 • I 250 I 31 I 1860 lai I 16 I 1818 1 / LiQat&otJdiss. is^^mm m N am* tad ChttHtar of Uglit Ut.V. Ung.'W. Deaorlptka, fte. ^^ DUBLIN BAT KISH LT. YESS. Three bright ligliti Xinftoum JS. 1^ One' rev. It, imin. Mttfttoum tTf Utr (me fixed rMfli^t Footsia Two bright lights BAiunr One bright light EmthB.Titr Oaer«rf light Balbuooait One bright ligtii BOGKABILL One br. and mf flaah. It. DnOOHIDA Three fixed br. lighti DVMDAUL One fluh. It, 15 leot. CABLINOFOBD Hattlbowliiti Book Two bright lighti Obbxnobi Point DUNDBUM BAY One intermit, red light Ardglaaa Harbour SOUTH BOOK One rev. br. It, \\ m. Donaghadee Pier Head One rtd or br. fixed It COPELAND One fixed bright lig^t BELFAST BAY One r«d It, and othera ! 53 »9- i5«.3 In 10 ftna., off K. of Eish Bank. The Its. ate set triangularly . . 88 t 10 I 1811 20 53 i8. I iFkHe and ted light alternately. 6 9. } AfogboU.... 53 »«-7 * 33 At Mouth of R. Lifiy. Lower It. from half flood to half ebb . . On 8.E. Mint of Howth PeninB. A fog bell f 53 35-7 I I 6 o.j| I On Pier fieod On Pier, 8. of ontranpe , S* 43* 6 15. n ft' • 5- I 54 13.1 5 40. Flash every 12 sees. ; bright fiea- ward, r«(f to Weitward On SandhiUa, 8. of B. Boyne. Changeable, as sandbanks shift Std towards W. side of Dundalk Bay. WhiU to seaward .... In same tower. Zowtr It. from half flood to half ebb. Fog beU I One revolTing light, 40 sees. Std 45 sees., On 8t John's Pt dark 10 sooa. . I Lame Lough MAIDENS Two fixed bright Its. BATHLIN Cue iniorm., 1 fixod It. I I One fixed rN( light 54 33.9 I A white tower, 60 fiiot high, on 5 aj.i I the Rock • 54 38.6 I Std to seaward ; bright towards 5 3a. I Harbour and Belfast Bay .... A white tower, 52 feet high, on Small Copeland Island Red It on Holl3rwood Bank ; (ffvm It also on the Bank : 3 more ftttH Its. towardg Boluist ; and a red It S.W. of Stone Boooon One bright light on Farros Point 54 55.8 I Towers white, with red belt. In 5 4j. I ouo,N.W.byW.,640yd8.«pttrt jj 1 8. a Uppor It intormt, br. 50 sooa.: 6 10.7 dnrk 10 bocs. Lower It. fixed. jR(x/lt. ovor Cunickvurkun Rock 54 4I-7 5 3». 54 39- 5 53- • I 41 • i 88 • I 68 • I 134 • I 43 • I 42 lb I 148 • I .. 4b I 88 • I 101 |«| 29 I lb I 62 !•! 18 • I 52 • I 56 • I 131 5a 12 15 11 10 18 6 » 15 9 12 6 12 12 16 27 5 1818 1822 1845 1768 1813 1818 1769 1860 1842 1805 1823 1830 1844 1860 1801 1707 1826 1706 I • I 42 I 11 I 1839 •I S}|1S|»"8 ib j jg2 I 2i I 1806 lU UOHTHOUBEB. VorlllOotit I uA OuoMUr of light Ut.ff. Lone. W. DcMriptioo, fte. I LOUGH FOTLE XmSBOWBH Two fixed bright Its. BedOaatle One fixed Intiglit It White Outle One fixed bright It. Tore One fixed bright It CnnnybfliTr One fixed bright It OnlmoraPdnt CnDceeragh Boom Hall Bom Bay Lt Veaael BockMiU INNISTRAHITL One br. rev. lt,2i mia. LOUOH 8WILLT One r»4 or bright light TOBTISLAin) One fixed bright light Amuntou IstANO One fiaahing br. light BATHLIN-0-BIBNB One flaah. It, 20 aeoa. KILLTBEGS St John'a Point BottenlaUnd 8LIQ0 Blade Book Oyatar Island BnoADRAVRir One br. or fW fixed It • JJ.6 On Dnnagree Point In one, K and W., 158 yaidii apart .... I Onpika^ on outer edge of Bidge I I I On pilea, E. aide of Ohaonel I ... . I .. On {ilea, S.B. side of OhaiuMl •• On piles, N.W. side of Ghannel ...... I ALaotamonalfast..*......* | .• I Bright light E. aide of enbrance | .. (OneflxedrMfli^t......'', | .. I One fixed bright light | .. ...... I One fixed rwf It, near the Mill | .. 55 35.0 I A white tower. 41 feet high. On 7 13.6 I N.B. part of Idand 56 16.6 I On Faonet Point; rkl seaward, 737.91 bright towards the Lough.... 55 16.4 I On the ]^.W. Point of Island . . 8 15. 55 0.9 I BnOding (1861) on N.W. Point 8 33.' 54 39* 8 49-9 JMtowatds Mainland and Sound. To be a fixed light after Aran- more is lighted 54 34.1 I One fixed bright lic^t 8 27.6 I I One fixed bright light | 54 18. I Onefixed bright light in the Bay I |Twofixedbr.lts.,inl8.S.E.|E. I la 2b 8b 54 ««. 9 53- EAGLE ROOK Two bright fixed lights BLAOK ROOK | One light in(oa4«4 | 54 » 10 I On Gubaoashel Pt Whih to sea- I ward ; fwl townrds W. side of Harbour , . . . . | S mQes fifom Erria Hd. In one E. by N., RQd W. by S., 188 yards apart M 4. I BuUding (1861) j IP 19. I I 671 18 1 S6| ..I 86| ..i 25 1 ..I 8ff| ..I 4» ..1 60 ..I 12 ..I 20 |..| Iff ..I 181 18 1 00 HI 126 116] .. |..| 116 16) 08 1*1 66 18 1 79 1 ISi 40 1 11 1 8/1 181 220 1 20 1 ..i ..1 1887 186S 18M 1860 1848 1848 1861 1869 1869 1869 1812 1816 1882 ••*• 1866 1881 1888 1836 1887 1866 UGEfHOXTBBS. Vofftfloifl; iw. KHM aad OkMMter of Ught UtN. Lone. W. e I 1 OLEWBAT QUkMM. IbLAMD ImiBooBT Iinuui0 BLTNE HEAD Ona zev. mi «ad Inriffht liglit, 2inin., and 1 flzed bright lifl^t OALWAY BAY Ebbaoh Iblamd One rev. bri£^t light IxvkVMxa. Onelrifl^itrrwllt. If ntton Idand * Oiw fixed bright It SHANNON, BIVEB LOOFHEAD One fixed bright It ElLOBADAV One bright or milt Tarbnt One bright fixed It Beevee One bri^t oir rti It Tbalii One bright or mf light VALENTIA One fixed bright light SKELLI08 Two fixed bright lights OalvRook One light Bantst Bat One fixed bright light ClOOKHATIM One bright or ni light 53 495 1 9 59- 1 1 53 49< 1 9 4«>-» 53"»3.9 lo 14. 538.9 9 51-5 53 »-7 931.5 VVVA 1 5» «3.< I 955.9 5» 34.8 9 4a.6 5» 35.5 9 ai.S 5» 39- 9 «.3 51 16.3 9 53.* 51 5*. ID 19.3 51 46.» 10 33.7 5« 34.» 10 15. 51 39.* 9 44.« 51 38.6 9 41.6 One fixed bright light on N. Point « r On* fixed brightlie^t | • N. light rev., with one mi and two br. fiioei; the rev. and fixed Its. in one N.}E. end 8. f W., 142 yard* apwt On W. Point Bright flaah every I lb 8 min, ., ....| iM in direction of Finnis Bock i la On centre of Idand, off Qalway 600 yards fW>m ^atxemity of I la Head | On the Point Btd to Beaward ; | • bright to River OntheBock r BedtoN.ofBook I 8a On Little Samphire Id. JM It i 4a seaward fr. W.N.W. to N. i B. | On Cromwell's Fort I • On highest Book, 7} miles from shore. One It wUl be discon- tinued when Galf B. is lighted Building (IMl) >**%%*%%%%»»%»% I •• E. entrance to Bearhaven , On Book Island Ft JM across | • Books to Shuk Head .* .■ ^ . - «i ji'i*' ' « *'«!(**;_ *!*'■ - ^ **-j~ 841 I 87 i 1806 86 1 10 1 1887 1; 1 1886 126 116 116 I 16 1 1867 110 I 16 I ..»« S3 I 10 1 1817 377 I 82 1 1868 188 I 16 I 1824 68 1 18 I 1884 40 1 10 I 1864 66 I 9 1 1860 64 1 12 { 1841 872 t 26 176 18 1826 66 I 12 I 1847 67 i IS I 1860 IM LIOHTHOUSES. AHD tmiWKt, Mmm nd dumatar of Ugbt. ut,v. Lang. B. l)ewriptiati« fte. ^^ I WHITE SEA. JUGINSK Oiw fixed bright light MOUDIUOA One fixed Inight light MOBJOVBTS One fixed bright light ORLOV One fixed bright light V0BWA7. Eolckiiigon, Malang Fiord AyrtwKJBS One fixed and flash. It Elopen, or Oloppen One fixed bright light LOFOTEN ISLANDS 8vin6 One fixed red light HENNINGSViEB One filed & flash. It. ^feiien, or Kie I., S. Point One flxed bright light Sjaabolmen One fixed bright light Stamsund One flxed bright light Hanunerfost One fixed bright Ught Vaag, or N. Helllg Vmr One fixed bright light PILSSTd, Folden Fiord One flxed bright light VILLA One flxed and flash. It Hunk Holm One flxed bright It Agdenils One flxed bright It Tomingen I 63 ao.6 I Cos fixed bright Ught ! 9 9. | S5 la.a 36 5'' 64 55.5 40 16. 6645.7 4» 30« 67 ii.a 41 10.5 69 36. «7 53-5 69 19.5 16 9. 67 53-5 «3 4-5 68 3. »3 34-5 68 8.5 14 14-5 68 13.1 »4 37' 68 9.5 14 4'-5 68 ^.'. «3 53- 70 4o.a «3 40. 67 a6. 14 1.7 64 43-4 10 46.1 64 3»-7 10 41.7 63 a7.a 10 14.8 63 3«-a 9 49-5 »••• I •• On the N. hmght of Island On a sandy Hillock on ika Id., I .. at entamoe of B. DvinA .... | 640Tarda in shore of N. W. Pdnt I . . ofLdand | N.E. Point of 0. Orlov, 1,200 I .. yards from Beaoh »...'. | N. side of Hokldng Id. Ftom I 4a Ang. 16 to May 1 | From Aug. 16 to May 1. Flash I 2d every 8 min. | SSrraagon, 8. of entrance. IVom I 6a Sept 1 to April 14 | Neax Balstad. September 1 to | • AprilU Quitverdon. Flash every 8 min. August 16 to May 1 Svolvser. Soptombor 1 to April I • 1* I Skraaven's Harbour. Sept. 1 to I . . AprU14 I Tomholm, S. Point Sept I to AiunlU Weit 66 Extremity of Fuprlonms Islimd. Aug. 26 to April 20 6a N.E. fPoint of Island. Aug. 16 I 6a to May 1 I On the Islet August 1 to May I 6a 16 I On the Island. A flash every I 2d 4 min. August I to May 16 | On the Fortress. August 1 to I 6a May 16 On the Point. May 16 August 1 to On the Island. Augiut I to I 6a "*y »" I 140 140 160 S2S 148 1S4 196 118 64 81 66 46 86 127 44 116 100 17 I 1842 16 I .... 14 I 1842 17|lBa Ck»ft 14 I 1869 20 I 1869 1111867 11 I 1867 16 1 1867 4 I 1866 4 I 1866 7 I 1860 11 I 1860 12 I 1869 12 i 1841 20 I 1869 10 I 1840 9 I 1881 • 12 t 1849 90&WAT. i4iuiiTliOUS]SS. WwiCoaK. 127 NUM aad Ghuaetcr of Ugbt. Long. E. DewriptioD, fte. I ttii •8 TRONDHJEM One fixed bright light Leenig One fixed liriglit light CHBI8TIAK6UND One fixed bii^t lif^t QVTTHOLM One fixed aad fiaah. It Walderhong One fixed bright light LiFflo Essv Lt. Ynsxi. One fixed bright light HoosTBir One fixed and flash. It rond6 One fixed bright light HELLESO ISLAND One fixed and flash. It. BKJELLANOER One flxed bright light Bbrosw One fixed bright light LearBen Island One flxed bright light Kir Holm One fixed bright light •« Oxhammer One fixed bright light BLOTTERS, SELB4. 59 54-5 5 5- 59 48. 5 »o. 59 4». 5 »4-7 59 37. 5 16. 59 35- « 5 10. 1 I 59 3«7 On the Ringholm Rock, half mile from £. Ft. of Eddo. Ang. 1 to May 16 On H. side of Island. Ang. t to May 16 On 8tavn8B8,N.E. Point of Averd. Aug. X to May 16 On TS.W. Ft of Id. A flash of 12 sees, every minute. Aug. 1 to May 16 On 8. Ft. of WfllderS. Ang. 1 to May 16 In 3 fins, on S.E. part of Reef. Aug. 1 to May 19 t.i Flash every 3 min. On S.E. of I Qod.o Id., Bred Sound. Aug. 1 to May 16 I W. Ft. of Id., Bred Sd., Ang. 1 toMayl6 Flash 12 sees, every min. ; at 8 m. dist 'dark between flashes N.W. side of Holientt Id. July 15toMayl6 On Nordnns Foint. Aug. 16 to April 30 W. side of Island. July 15 to May 16 Bagholm Sound. July 15 to May 16 E. side of Selb». July 15 to May 16 On the Island. South entrance | 2a | 152 | 18 | 1859 5a I 51 I 14 I 1840 ■'■;-■ :. .■■ A - — .-~~-<,' w .. I .. |.. 11833 5» I 65 I 12 1 1842 2d 1 134 I 19 I 1842 .. I 41 I 4 I 1860 .. I 25 I 4 11858 4d| 41|12| .... .. I 161 I 22 I 1858 2d I 154 I 19 1 1865 5a I 58 I 13 I 1853 .. I 41 I 4 I 1889 .. I 57 I 4 I 1855 .. I .. I 4 1 1849 .. I .. i 4 I 1860 On Island at Stokspnd. July 15 | .. | 51 | 4 | 1855 toMay 16 | Mosterhavn. July 15 to May I .. | 8» I 4 1 1855 16 I Lille Blegan. E. side of Bom- 1 . . | 16 | 8 | 1855 melii Id. J'lly 16 to May 16 | 8. entrance of Harbour. Oct. 1 I .. | .. | 4 | 1849 toAprill I ,^,,_ On Foint leading into Bommel I .. | .. ( 4 j 1840 »» , 3 -.^f , Fiurd. JaljT 15 to M»y 16 .. j m IQKWAT. UOHTHOTTSES: Seul&edMt Kama and ChaiMter «r Ucht. Lat. N. Long. £. Dtaeriptton, fto. ^^ a OitterS I 59 a6. I Bemoved bam Gletta. Yis. from i .. I ..I 41 i860 One fixed bright li^t | 5 8.5 | N. to S.W. i W., by the K . . | ^iSJSSdbri^tli^t p|;j:j|onBoc>k»tN.enttMioe |Sa| 72|13|1846 0^r&[edbri^t light 1*5 JJijlE-rideofKamB | .. | 66 | 6 1 1M8 XTDSntE I 59 19.6 I W. side of Id. N.'V. and B.E. I 2a 1 256 | 21 | 1844 Two fixed bright lights { 4 51.1 | 220 yards apart | BnkkeSnnd I 59 13.2 I E. side of Bnkken bland. Otot 1 I . . I ..I 411849 One fixed bright light | 5 >9. 1 toAprill | FieUoUknd | | Oneflxedbr.lt Oct 1 to April 1 1 .. | .. | 4 1 1849 Bkode Noes Havn { ; Oneflxedbr.lt. Oct 1 toAprill | .. | .. | 4 1 1849 Sknde Ness I 59 9.1 1 S.E. Point of KarmS. Oct 1 to I .. I 77 1 81 1840 One fixed bri^t light | 5 17. | April 1 | ^'^told bright li^t pJjSiJOctoberltoMawhSl ........ |..| Sf | 6 1 1840 2d I 149 I 21 I 18<8 HVIDINGSO One fixed and flash. It 59 4- 5 »3't Fiked It 2m. Sfiseos. ; then short eclipse ; then br. flash 10 to 16 teos.; then eclipse. Only flashes seen 16 m. dist Bevs. in 4 m. LiLU Fntmir One flxedfMf light EOERd OnuinMimD Houc One flxed br. %ht W. Po»T or Island One fixed br. li^t YiBBnooonr One flxed br. light YabhXb One fixed bright light LI8TEB Three flxed br. lighti NAZE OF NORWAY orLINDBBNJ&8 One flxed A; flash. It 0DDEB5 ISLAND One flxed rtd light 0X5 ISLAND I ^]^;^ I On the Island •vMa| 68(131 1869 I ^1 *J;' I On If.W. Point | ffa | 48 (11 1 18M 15816. I I la I 154 I 24 I 1864 58 S5.9 I 8.E. Pointof Yibber Odde .... | 5» | 78 1 12 1 1856 i 59-6 58 10.6 I 8. Point of entrance to lister I .. | 90 1 12 1 1886 ^ 37'3 I Vioti I '58 6.5 ^nuree white towers bnilt in a 6 34.a triangle, on W. Pt of Lister 57 59. I White and red tower, 88 ft. high, 7« 3. I ontheOape. Flash of 12 sees. I every minnte 58 8.1 1 In Christiansand Fiord, on6.W. | .. | 27 1 10 | 1882 8 0.5 ] Point of Island 2a 1 180 1 19 I 1858 Id i 164 I 24 i 1858 CO ISLAND I 58 4.a I Bound white tower on 8. of Id.. I 2a 1 189 1 19 | 1858 One flxed bright light | 8 3.6 | entranceofChristiansandFiord | I58 S6.3 I YellowboUdingonSandvigPt, |6a| 43 I 11 I 1844 i$hi!i^l ! I4?4i W. side of^annel I ABBIDAIi Qss fu.'j^ bfi'M tight BTOftWAT. LtGHTHOTTSES. SOQtllOoMt. ISO ij *l IMO m 1846 « IMS 21 1844 1849 1849 1849 1840 1840 18<8 1869 1866 18M 18M 1886 18£8 1868 Mama ud ChtiMter of Light. LatN. Long. E. DeaerlptlOB, fto. a TORXJNGElf mS. Two fixed bright lights Btangholnu Idand One fixed rvrflig^t JOMFBULAND Onefixedandflash.lt liAvoHTAyonr One fixed bright light Eiedeiikiyem Oie fixed ^TMtt light OHBISTUmA FIOBD. One fixed brifllht It. ToilOAVTte TsUkXD One fixed bright It. FULKUUK ISLAND One fixed ft fiuh. It TorgersS Island One fixed bright It MossHavn One fixed r«f light Babt5 Iblahd One fixed bright It BedPdnt One fixed bright It FQtvedt One fixed bright It Steilmie Island HegHoIm 58 24.1 847.7 On Outer Torungen, and Inner Tomngen, N.N.E. 1,200 yds. apart........ 58 43.7 I Yellow building on E. Point . . | 6a 9 «5- I 5« 5** 9 86. J 58 59-7 I ■ 9 45-» ' 58 59-5 10 4.5 59 *' 10 31.1 59 9-5 10 50.3 59 ". 10 36.7 59 '5 5 10 30.9 59 »^-4 10 39.8 59 *3-3 10 33. 5? 31.9 16 16.3 59 34-7 10 37,7 White tower, 86 ft. high, on a low Island. Flash every ^ min. Dark between flashes at 8 m. Yellow tower on S. Point of I Langtt Island | otaTaemsS, 8. Pt, E. sido of Channel July 16 to June 1 Bed tower, 184 ft. high, with 'white belt, on lit Fserder. Fogbell On 8. Point 2d la White ower, 41 feet high. Flash | 4d every 8 minutes On N.W. Point July 16 to June 1 «... E. side of Oanal. October 1 to March 31 Yellow building on N. E. Point | 6a E. side of entrance to' -Drams Fiord. July 16 to May 31 . . On W. shore. July^ 16 to May 81 One fixed light. July 81 to May 81 One fixed light on "Sf. Pt July 16toMayl6 6a 6a 1 184 20| 1 84 10 1 |134 20 1 1 41 111 |101 8| |164 24 1 1 87 112 1 1 «7 |14| i 10 8| 1 10 8| 1 88 12 1 1 86 «l 1 24 «l 1 22 «l 1 23 *l 1866 1889. 1889 186; 1867 1969 1860 1861 1867 1848 1840 1840 1837 1826 1882 m nm i ,■♦• 1863 1 1844 ■ •^u. .'• •',- •> i^ IXEVKABK, MGHTHOXTSES. B. Elbe, t^ Name and Character of Ught. LatN. Long. E. Defloriptian, fto. 1^ SKAGEN.orSOAW One fixed bright light HAN8TH0LM One rev. hr. It. ^ nun. AooBS Ohav. Lt. Ybssbl One fixed bright light SYLT Two fixed lights One fixed and flaajL light 57 44-1 lo 37.9 57 6.8 56 45-5 8 10.S 55 3-5 8 34. Ice Bignalii ahown. Bed baU on la | U4 | 16 i 1869 the Old Lt H. if the l4»85 Lt . Yew^l i« not at her station .. m.W. Ppi^tof Jntland I .. | 218 ( 18 | 1843 Nov. 15 I 6a i SO I 10 I 1860 Within the Channel, to March 20 Two fixed Its. (the Western red- mA) on List or N. end pf Id. B.E. by E. f E., 2,910 yards apart. The fixed It will fiash every 4 m., in village of Elamp, and changes to red when over the Bar 4a 63 10 « • 72 18 • t 206 20 Dagebiill Two fixed bright Vfl. Fohr Island 154 4i Two fixed bright Its. I 8 34 I 54 43-7 I On the Dyke I 8 41:3 34.3 AMRUM ISLAND, I 54 385 One rev. br. It, i n^n. [ 8 22.5 MDER LT. VE93EL One fixed bright lig)it Riyer Elbe. J. Outer Light Vessel Three fixed br. Its. Loots Galliots Lt Yea. One fixed bright It II. Middle Light YesMtl Two fixed Ught« ni. Inner Light Yessel NEUWERK Two fixed bright U& Kusyel Baak One fixed brigbt light CUXHAVEN One fixed and flash. It. 54 IO-7 8 34.6 54 0.1 8 18.1 53 55- 8 30- 53 535 8 41.7 53 523 8 43- B8Bch I 53 53-7 One fixed bright light | 9 15. Storena I 53 50. One fixed r«a| ••|tt|«.8 14.9 ta one tower. Lower It. from K. by W. * W., to E. by 8. : it fsuows rM^ to tiie Dwasgatt . . Bright light at 10 fe ot at new Maxb, ; fviltb on old Port Mole 2a I 112 I 16 I 1856 44 7 18»7 .. I .. I 10 I .... Heppens l^AKGKROOa One rev. br. It., 2 min. BOBKUH ISLAITD One fixed bright light EmsBitbb One fixed bright light I ....•• ^t A smalllight near new Harbour | .. | .. | .. | ., 53 47.4 I E. of Idand; tow«r white, 60 | .. | 100 | 12 1 18^ 7 54.2 I feet high; a beacon to E. by N. 53 35>5 I A red briok tower, 110 ft. high, 40.4 I at entrance of River Ems .... 53 S0.3 I On the Dyke of the Knock, at 7 3. I entrance 2a i 142 1 18 I 1817 6ft I 29 I 8 1 1856 IBIREBIANDS. ZUIDEB ZEE. HABUNQBir One fixed bright It. Stayokiw One fixed bright It. UuK Island One rev. br. It. 2} m. BoROyiAND IbLAITD One fixed bright It. I 53 10.6 [ On Bampart. t 5 *5' I 52 25.2 I N.W. of side of Harbour j 5» 39-7 I I 5 35-8 I On the S.W. Point. 5a 37.2 1 On S. Point of tbe Island 5 40.7 I HoBK,near Amstordam I 52 22.3 I One fixed bright It. | 5 t.i \ Mabken Island I . . . At tiie angle of tKe Biver f . . . . I One fixed br. It on S.E. Point. . | 52 44.6 I A stone tower on the Dyke . , . . I 52 53.4 I On W. of Id., N. and S., 448 4 56.3 I yards apart .. < There are also small Harbour lights in ihe Zuider Zoo at Workum, Hindelopen, De Lemme, Blokcyl, Oenemuiden, Kampon, Elburg, Harderwyk, Nykerk, Muiden, Edam, Geldbbscbe Hobk One fixed bright It. Wieringen Two fixed bright Its. .. I 66 I 10 I .... .. I 30 110 1 .... 4b I 69 I 10 I ... I 34 I 8t .... I 61|10| .... I 62 I 10 I .... I 66 I 10 I .... 39 1 61 .... 16 4 .... 'ii.-v .Tv^JiirTimv in WMBMBLAMM, 'IQBTROVSES. W. OoMl A idftodi. H MM ud Chanwtor of light. UtN. Long. £. DcMsilptioiii tea J SOHIEBMONNIEOOa I 53 38.8 Two fixed bright Its. | 6 10. TEictSCHELLINa I 53 31.7 ' One rev. br. It., 1 min. | 5 13.1 VLIELAND I 53 17.8 One fixed bright light | 5 3.8 Nnrwa Dncp 53 58. One fixed bright light 4 47. One fixed r«f light KTKDUIN I 53 s^.t One fixed bright lig^t | 4 43.5 EGMOND-AAK-ZEE 53 37.3 Two fixed bright Its. 4 37.6 ZandTOort 153 33.5 One fixed li|^t | 431.5 Koordw^-aan-Zee I 53 14.6 One fixed bright light | 4 35.9 On the North side of the Id., S.E. by S., 1,102 yds. apart . . On the Brandaris tower, near the W. endoflsland On the Weirhoofd, N.E., 51 yds. ajMurt On the Fort on the high white Sandhill 8.S.E. f E., 408 Tds. apart. N. Lighthonae, called Van Speyk's Ifi 2b I 147 139 177 .. I 151 86 t • I • • la 161 Tower 3a Katw^>aan-Zee I BOHEVENINOEN I 53 6.3 One fixed bright light | 4 16.3 N. of Village, a coal fireP for fishenmen .....•■• ....••• .... For fishermen. On a scafibld . . I Light for fishing boats | .. A stone tower, 8. of town ; half I 3a mile S.W. of Church | VOORNE ISLAND. " Brielle Harbour | Steenen Baak | Oostroome One br. and one rtd fixed light Hbllivoktslvis One fixed bright It, OOEREE ISLAND. Hiddelhamis QOEDEREEDE or OOEREE One fixed light Kwaden Hoek | Steenen Baak | SCHOUWEN ISLAND. Ossenhoek | 51 54-8 4 4-5 51 49* 4 7-9 358.8 I Fixed bright light on E. Mole . . | . . I One fixed bright light | . . Half mile W. of ViUage ; S.E. I S., 457 yards apart W. end of Harbour !• BROUWERS HAVN. 151 44-5 Two fixed br. light* | 3 47 -5 I F{xed bright Harbour light .... | .. On Church tower. Bed towards 2a E.N.E. to N.E. by E I One fixed bright light • | . . I JZnflttoW., onN.sideofld. | .. I One fixed bright light | . . At Renease, on N. side of Id., I 3a E.S.E. i E., 800 yards apart | 4a Vcrklikkcr, or guido It. | ..... . | N.W. of Id., to show Anchorage | . . 120 126 56 66 82 95 16 « • 59 46 148 98 23 148 82 55 15 11854 20) .... 8 1 1848 8 1848 .. 11822 20 1858 16 18 1834 4 I.... 5 I ...» 6 I .•.. 16 I 1850 4 I 1858 • • I • • • • 7 1 1857 8 I 1858 .. I 1857 18 i 1856 .. I 1857 10 I 1858 8 I 1859 16 I 1848 12 I 6 I .... kUftadi. Ull'H'HItTiAWDB. UQHTHOTTSBS. ZdaiidtftBivan. isa .^ i1 ^ 47 39 Iff 1854 77 i 20 1 .... 51 i 12 1 .... 29 8 1848 8 1848 • • SI .. 1822 20 1868 20 26 \l 1834 S6 1 4|.... 86 1 fi|.... S2 1 «|.... )ff 19 J J 16 1 1860 4 I 1868 • • I • • • • 7 1 1857 81 8 I 1868 .. (1867 18 i 1866 .. I 1867 10 i 1868 8 I 1869 16 I 1848 12 I 6 I ...t Naaio Hid Chataotor of Light. Lat.N. Long. E. Deaorlptioii, fto. i a ^ n SCHOUWEN One zev. bright It ' 51 4a-5 3 41-8 A fine tower, 166 ft. high, on W. I lb I 171 I 20 I 1744 endofI(LBright268eo8.eTei7| | [ 11840 li min. 1 WALCHESEN ID. Sloe YsaBB One fixed bright It WEST CAPPEL One fixed bright It FLTISHINa One fixed blight It 8. BETELAND ID. BOBSBLlir Batha One fixed bright It Goes Harbour One fixed bright It Tib Nbvbb, Axbi. Id. One fixed bright light THOLEN ISLAND. Gorishoek One fixed bright It Stavenisse ZnHixzBa Two fixed brig!it lights Zupi Two fixed bright Its. Ooltgensplaat One fixed bright light WiLLEHBTAD One fixed bright light Stryen-Sas One fixed bright light DOBDSOHB Kill One fixed bright light Krab Maas BrvBB St 3* 9 3 40-5 St 3».8 3 »?•» St a6.4 3 34-7 5« »5- 3 44- St' a3-7 4 13.8 51 3a.8 3 55-8 51 20.5 3 50. 51 3»« 4 4.8 5» 37-9 3 55-4 51 39-3 4 6-3 51 409 4 33.x 51 418 4 ><-7 51 4a.7 4 356 51 43-4 4 37-5 I Light S. of Middelbnrg Harbour 8. side of entrance On old Cihurdi Tower On Westhaven Bastion ........ One fixed bright light S.E. ofFort. On N. side of entrance ........ On W. Jetty N. of Ferry ., Bright It at E. Angle of Haven One at S. Angle, near Zieriksee; the other on W. Haven Heads One on Outer Dyke of Stooff Polder ; th^ other on Land side ofDyke End of Hrjrbonr Dam, River Yolgerak In flront of Bastion. ...•..«..•• W. Heads of Outer Haven .. . • W. extremity of Dordt Channel In Old Maas. One bright light Small Harbour lights at Schie- dam. Perms, and Vlaardingen 4a 4a 83 i 81 .... 38 1 10 I 1847 144 I 16 I 1818 49 I 10; .... 36 I 9 I 1847 32 I 5 I .... 81 I 6| .... 43 1 10 I 1845 361 4| .... 27| ff| .... 311 41 .... 43 6 61 •••. 31 39 161 6| .... 41 I 10 I .... 48| 6| .... 48 I 10 I .... 31| 2| .... IS4 ncannc IlOiBXEOXJfSBS: WwlOoMt Nhm aad Chusetw of Ugbt LtitN. Lonff. E. e / Dewiiirtkaii, fte. > A NORTH HINDEB LT. VESSEL One fixed br. ligbt Faabob Mabxt Lt. Vi8. • One fixed red light HoTBt One fixed bzight light Blankenberg One fixed bright light OSTENBB One fixed bright It S.JPi»r 5* 3«-7 1 34.6 In 14 fitthoma, on the E. aide . . • I 40 1 11 i 1868 51 33.7 |S.W.paTtofBank ( • | .. | .. 11849 3 ao. |5jm IK.ofTown | .. | 48 | 8 1 1842 I 3 »4- I 51 1S.9 I Li amall Fort 3 8. I 44 I 6 1 1888 .51 14^ I Tower, 170 feet high, 820 yards I la 1 189 | 20 | 1860 a 55.9 I E. by N. of old fight. <. | I Sed light, while 8 to 14ft., and I .. I 2S | 6 1 1849 t brightlt;,whilel4fi;.,onBar| .. I 40 | 7 W.Pier I I Ortm light all night I .. I 25 I 7 I .... Nieuport Tide Light One fixod bright light 51 8.4 I E. side of Port, firom half flood | .. ^ 32 | 6 1 1825 343. t tohalfebb '■■?.:?*■ . »■« *tt. .,-«•«« '^vi%.^^^ f i^^-f t, f<; f i'% ■■'Sftr' '.mt ■ r-iii l-fi,th^(^.-_,un.->^ ^^.^,J. '.W.' -i :fmii.''dh' iS'^-!: .' -JS 'M- •- 'ii^'^^ft'- '' f-^^--':^ v:3i/ iBJjnnL IIOUTU0USB8. VttrthOoMt. IM If UM uA OhazMtw of Ucht. LatN. LoBf . K. DMorlptioB, *«. «► DUNEEBQTTE 1 51 3. I Briuk tower, 180 ft. high, on One rev. hr. It. 1 min. \ * »2.\ Pier Head DinnuutaoB Poet I ' One blight and one rtd ' fixedUght I OBAYELINES Three fixed br. lighta St 0.3 a 6.5 e| liww Waidb PoniT One fixed and flash. It to 11860 CALAIS One fixed and flaah. It 6 1849 7 Calais Habbovs ' ISro Its. and one Tidelt. 7| .... 8 \ 182ff 1 •1APB GMSNEZ B One rev. br. It, i min. Bright It on Hoiigaohar Tower; rtd Ught on W. Mole Head . . One It on Fort Philippe ; 2 Its., 66 yds. apart, on S.W. Mole of FortPhiUppe 50 59.7 I Br. It, with red flash every 20 I 55.1 I sees. ; no eclipse 50 57.7 X 51.1 Fixed It, with flash every 4 min.; | in tower, 167 ft. high, on Old Fortiflcations Sti It on W. Jetty ;' jfriiti It, in &ir weather, on E. Jetty ; and br. tidt Ught on Fort Bouge while 8 feet lb 1 194 I 24 I .... 5a I 85 I 9 1 1845 • I 28 I 3 I .... 3a I oS I 15 I 1848 • I 20 I 6 1 1854 .. I 34 I 10 I 1859 Id I 190 I 20 I 1848 16 I 2 I 1842 6a I 33 9 .... JBouloffru Two fixed bright Its., and one fixed rtd It ALPEECK POINT One fixed and fiash. It Staples ot canche RIVER Two fixed br. Its. 50 53.S I Tower, 46 feet Ug^, i mile 8. of I lb 1 194 | 22 { 1842 I 35.1 I Cape. Eclipses not total at 12m. 50 43.9 Two br. Its. in one tower ; higher I 35.1 It while 9f ft.: lower It, from high water to 9 ft. ebb. Std It. on K.E. Jetty while 9H«et . . 50 41.9 I A br. It, with r#i flash every 2 I 33.7 I min. Tower. 33 ft. high, 2^ I milonS.W. ~ " 50 V t At Tonqnet, 8. side bf Mouth of River, in towers 171 ft. high, N.N.E, and 8.8. W., 273 yards apart Lomel Point | ....... | One fixed It on K. side of Mouth Pt. Havt-bakoofBbbck I 50 14. I N. side of Mouth ot rAuthie One fixed bright Ugkt { i 33.5 | Bivar..,. , 6a to 33 9 1835 • 46 4 4d 1 161 1 12 1 1842 la 1174 20 1852 •I 52 I 6 I .... 4a I 66 I 10 I 1836 SOMME BIYER. Crotoy One fixed bright It. Sowrdel Point One fixed bright It CAYEUX One fixed and flash.lt. Cayeux One fixed bright It. Treport One fixed brii^t. light 50 13.9 I On K. side of entrance. IMi I • I ..I 4 1 1851 I 37.3 I ;^A« while 8 feet | • I .. I 4 1 1852 3d I 92 I 15 I 1835 I 50 13.9 I On 8. Mde of entrance. Tide I I 33-9^1 /i^A< while 2 feet 50 It. 7 I Oa 8. side of entraaee. Fixed I I 30.7 [ light, with flash every 4 nin. | 812 yards S.W. of Oayeus light, from 3} hours flood to \\ ebb. • I .. I .. I 1856 50 3 I 33 .9 I Tide Ught on W. Mole, while 6} | 5a | 36 | 10 | ... .1 I fNtiatheChaniiel.......... m IPEAHOB. LIGHTHOUSES. HolrOiOiiiil KOM and Chuaoter of Light Dewsrlptfon, Ao. P ^ JUtppt, W. Mole One fixed bright It B.M0U Three fixed br. Its. AILLT POINT One ray. br. It. 1 min. 8t. VAUUiT-iir-GAinc Onebr. IrMf fixed It. f£gamp One fixed bright light Ftounp Harbour Tide light while 10| feet «••••• On a "KTast. Lowest It. all night ; highest light from 2i hears be- fore to 2 hours after high water ; middle It. from 2 hours before until high water 49 55.1 I Tower, 66 ft. high, on the Point, o 57.5 I Eclipses not total at 10 miles 49 53.1 I Bright tide light on W. Jetty I o 41.7 I while 8i feet. JiM^lt-onE. Jetty { 49 46.1 I On Faji^Tiet Point, aboYO the chalk I o 31.3 I diff. Sometimes obscuredbyfog | Fixed and flash. Bed tide light on N. Jetty while 10 ft; Fixed r«; li^tonS. end of Jetty • • 89 10 1 • 23 4 81 • • 27 • • • ••I teat • • • • lb I 805 I 27 I 20 I 6 24 8 1857 1857 la I 426 I 18 I' 1836 5a KIVER SEINE. LA h£:ve Two fixed bright Its. HAVRE ' One fixed bright It. HOO One fixed bright It Hode Point TancarviUe Yillequier ' Caudebecquet NeuTillo 49 30.7 I Two towers, 66 ft. high, on the o 4.3 I Cape, S.W. i S., 60 yds. apart 49 »?• o 6.3 On N.W. Jetty. An Orange It also on S.£. Pier, vis. 1 mile ; and a Lantern, %ith coloured glasses, on the Quay la I 5a I 80 I 10 29 3 307 I 20 I 30 i 10 I • • • • • • t • 1848 49 38.8 I On Point, N. Bank of River I 5a | 39 | 10 | o 11.3 Seine I Yaquerie Airier Courral I One bright light on the Point . . | • | I One blight light on the Point . . | • | One br. It 1 m. W. of Yatteville I • | Church I One br. It f m. E. of Caudebec I • | Church I One br. It If m. below Vatte- I • | -viUe Church | One br. It li m. above Airier I • | Church I • . . . . . I One bright It near the Church | • | • I • • • • • a Qros-li^ourt QviiiLBBOtur "^ One fix^ bright It LaRoque Bervilla One br. It. 2} m. above Quillo- boeuf light | One br. light \ m. above Point I • | Quilleboeuf | 49 38.^ I N. end of Quay, 8. Bank I 5a | o 31.6 I I I One bright light on the Point . . j • j ,,r. . . I One bright light N. of Church. . | • | I 8| I 8| I 8| i 8| i 8| I S| I 4} I 8| I 8| 88 I 10 I ..I 81 .. I 81 . 1847 1847 XEAlO&i USfBTBOUfSBS, StelMlMtt 187 V«me wd Chaneter of Light. Lat.N, Lon(. E. L(niC..W. a ^ . , ^^-ATOUVILLB . One fixed had flaah. light HOKFLfiTJB Two fixed br. lights TOVQVM BiTSK ' Two fixed bright lights L'OionBiTBK Two fixed bright Its. One fixed r«f light Comrsenlles One fixed blight light POINTE DB VER One fixied and flash. It. Pobt-im-Besbxn Two flied bright light* OrandcAiftp One fixed bright light PoH* D'liiojnr Two fixed bright ligbts Bt. Masooitp One fixed bright light MoRSAinia ' One fixed bright light LaHovovb' One fixed bright light Batiib Point One fixod bright light BARPLEUR One roT. br. It. \m.,k Two fixed bright Its. LsYi Capi One flxsd and flash. It. CHERBOURG . Port do Commerce Pbl^:r IstANn One fixed bright It, Ia Dioii One tixed k flnsih. U- Ono fixed pr*tH light Quo rtd li jht * 49-44'9 o 19.4 49 aS-5 o 13.6 49 ai.7 o 4.5 lOBg.'W. 49 16.6 o 15.6 49 »o-3 o »7S 49 »-5 o 31.3 49 »«•; P 4J-fi Slower, 196 fiset high, on the I Heights. Br. light, with rti flash, every 3 minutes | On Hospital Jottr, N.W. ond of I Tower; and Tidt light on E. { Jetty, while 6) flset ........ W. side, 163 yds. apart Lotperlt. while 7 foet o^ Bar. Itt one lead in Br. Its. on Chnrch and Redoubt of Oyestreham, ,W. side of entr. Jted Tide It. on N. end of W. Jetty, 3 homrs before and after ' high water On W. Jetty Head . Id 1 420 I 20 1 1940 8a I 82 I Iff 6a 29 6 • ••••• •••••• •••• • 33 8 • 20 6 5a 02 10 • 89 4 • • • 2 800 yards from the shore. Fixed light, with flash every 4 min. N.E. by E, and S.W. by W., . . .7.9 yards i^art JRiffh tid* U. wmle 12 feet oh Bar ...*•••• 49 *VA\ B76 yards West of Olinrcti I a.o I Vt?,\ 49 »9 9 I 8.9 49 34-3 I 19.4 49 M-i 1 16.4 N. by E. iE. and6.byW.i W., 306 yards apart I On the Fort, E. of Sand-fly I Island I On the Mound. Bluch higher I than La Hougue light ...... At 8. end of Fort • I SO I • 8d I 188 I 15 5a I 131 I 8 6a i 921 6 • 1241 8 46 1 10 1857 1848 } • ••« •••• 1855 |iS57 1854 1 1888 49 3^-4 I 139 49 4«-9 I 16. 49 4»« M a8.5 On Revili<^ Redoubt ?' •••••• •••• «•' 23 I 8 5a I 56 I 10 5a I 282 I 10 5a I 86 I 10 5a I 80 I 10 Rot. It. on the CapiB. ftright U«. on S. side of entmnco, 8.W. by W. i W., and N.E. by E. i £., 808 yards apart Tower, 103 foot hipch. Lt. br., with rtd flash evcy 3 min. . . 1853 I 184G I 1836 I 1886 (1836 • n-> 1836 . « * . ...I 4d I 115 I 12 I 1868 lb 230 22 6a 23 8 6a 43 9 ] , I JtMflight on E. Jotty | 4a | 33] S | 183ft 149 40.3 1 Oh Fort Imperial .134.9 J. 49 40- « Brig^ht flxml, with flash evrry S mis., on (Jentml Foft. Grccii light on Eastern Hond. Toiu- porary red light ion W. Haud 6a I 86 110 1 .... 6d| 80 • 89 10 2 10 18.19 1863 1858 lit UOHTHOUSBS. OOMt Hum and CharMtwr of Ucht. Lat. N. Long. W. i QoiaavariiXB FoBT | 49 40.3 I On the Goud'houae I fo | W|10|«».. Oaa fixed bright It. | i 49.1 | i CAFE DE LA HAGUE I 49 43.4 I Ontlietopof GrMduBasBook, | U 1 1«7 1 18 1 18S7 One fixed bright Uf^t | i 57.3 | half mile from Oqpe CASKETS 49 43-4 Three ret. he, lights, a aa.j • SOaeoi. 118 1 18 I 172S 1886 (Britiah). Fkoedtriangolariyon the hJgliMt Bode, £. } N., 62 yacda: 8.W. | W, 46 7BkU; •ad K.W. i W., 24 yds. aput (British). BuOding .......... I .. | •. | .. 1 1881 HANOIS or HAKO- 49 aj.S VBAUX BOOKS i 43.3 One lifl^t hnOding OcBBXsxT I 49 37. I (British). On Si nerre, a Pier I • I 40 1 11 1 1882 Onefixedbri^tUgliH s 32- r Hewl. 1 • 1 1 JEB8EY TcBCLOT Bbbaxwatu I 49 13.3 I (British). On the Onter end, in t 8a I 80 1 11 1 1887 One fixed bright It | a i.a | St Catherine's Bay St. Hilisb One fxed bright It : One fixed rtd ». ; and One fixed bine Ught Gkraray Pier Head Didette One fixed br. and »Wlt a I.a 49 »0S a 7.3 Bright light on Vietoria or S. Pier ; red light on Albert at N. Pier; Mm light on Old K. Pier 81 18 17 1888 18«9 1886 t • I One fixed bright light | .. | .. |..|1887 8 49 33« I 51.7 On Jetty Head. Bed It at head of Harbour. N.W. and S.E., 160 yards apart , 38 78 1888 CAPE CABTERET 1 49 **'4 I Tower, 40 fiset high, «b«i 8W.iS., 988 ydi. apart | Sto«q»«t C«l»| . |*;35:{|Bnilding,188l | .. | .. I .. | .... BCoHXTiuB I 49 0.5 I On Agon Point ...tM*«« |8a| 8811011888 One fixed bright light | i 34.9 | 1 CHAU8EY ISLANDS I 48 ja.a I On S.E. Point A br. It, with I 8d 1 181 1 18 1 1847 One fixed and fiash. it I 1 49-4 | rmf flasherery 4 min. .| 48 50.1 Bright It on Granville ^>ek, or I 34.9 Cape LihoQ. Med It on Mde Head, W. rids of entranoe . , On the new Mole des Koires ..|8a| 88 1 10 1 1848 8a I 184 I 18 1 1680 36 8 .... GRANVILLE One fixed bright It, ic One fixed »wf light St. Mau) I 48 39. I One fixed bright Ught | a 1.7 | CAPE FBEHEL I 48 411 1 Tower, 72 fbet high, on the I lb I 280 I 22 1 .... One rev. br. It, I min. I a 19.3 | Cape..... | L I | 1 1 I • IusSaimtQuat 14840- I On Harbour laUnd |8a| 4811011880 Onenxedbng&tiight I a4«6) ,^,^^,..,,^,.^ , .^ \ ' ' ' tSiQfSHBOVB'Ba. voHkecNMt i9d Hhm ai ChHMlir or light. Ut.N. Umg. W. e * DcMriptlMi, An. On PanthMTTo Hole I^a I4S3M QnendofPier {• 6a B~tqF«>BT I4I 36.1 Fovtrieaz ..QnfcflMdfMni^t BsteAT laui I 4ft 51.9.1 On tWm Book and Bosedo Hill, ..XwoilxtdiWlighto 1x59.3 W. 1 8., and £. | N., i mile I I •*«* "*** SkAVX DE BBtoiit 1 4S 54-5 I N.E. aide of Booka | la . On4i>M1»i|;htUglit I 3 5-3 1 I SEPT ILEB — I4S. 52.7 I Tower, Si feet high, on E. end I 3d Onefizedaodflaah.lt I 3 29.5 I oflleaazlloinea. Fized,withl I I flaah evety 8 nin. .......... | TBlomh Bim One fixed nrf It, and One fixed Mi^t light FEBB08 BAT Nantcmar Bridge One flxt4 hright It t IFropoaed (1861). JM tt. ou MiB ] '. . of St Antoine, and br. It on t HaihonrMiU mJ ■ ;4 ■*■■■■: 4S 4^. 1 1 On B.B. ahofo of Bay. .•«.^.... 3 »3.9 I FIzfld br. light, 750 yds. 8.K of I . . Nantooar Light | I I I .tk.M I Bright light on 8. Hhore of Bay | .. I 4I 4«.7 I Near llie MiU, 8,133 yarda S.W. I .. I 311I.4I of Pigeon House Light | I 4I 50.3 I On the Point I Pigeon HooM One fixed bright U. Fletunanao'h Pott One fixed fMf light HOBLAIX Ili Noina One fixed ft flaah. It | 3 ja.i | minutes TovB LA LAima I 48 38.S | ^ere is also a small rwl It on I fia One fixed bright It i 3 535 | Toww, 108lbet U|^, 4 niles E. 1 2d 1 18i 1 18 | «k.* One flzxl and fladu. light GamAretBey Totft3x6vwt PoniT One fixed fMf light 4.3>'9 i.8..af Minoaldght |laili| creiySnun. tttK^*.*** ) i ...... |IJ«^t1n>ilding(l881}tanne.... I 4a | lU 1 10] 1887 .One fixed. 1iri$ht light \ 4 si*5 I I ILBDESEIN US a.7 IN. Point of Id. Fixed It, with I Id 1 148 | 20 i 1848 One fixed and flaidill. [ 4 5a. | fiosh every 4 min. | BBO DIT RAZ I 48 a.4lTower,49Jfoethighontliehigheet|la|2J9|l8|1848 One fixed bright lifl^t I 444. | part | Andierne Pert One fixed rti It, and One fixed bright lig^t 48 0.6 4 3«-5 StdlK on Baonlio PHnt ; br. It near Capaofain OfMod ; N.E. I N., and S.W. | S., 1,203 yaida apart ,««•«•••••• ffa 86 1 6 69 [12 1856 PENHABCTH POINT I 47 47.9 I On the Vdai, on the Chnroh of I lb 1 185 i 22 | .... Onerer. bi. It i min.. .1 4 sa.4 j 8t Piene t| LtK *^7 1 ...... J. Building (1861) on Pont rAbb« i .. | .. | .. | .... • I » I A I 1848 .3 I On Coq Point, N. f E., and S. f .8 I W., 291 yd*, apart In one in ODirrhirxB I 47 5a Ouo fixed rMf light, and 4 6. One bright light | PENFBET I 47 43.3 I N. Point of Id. Fixed It, with | 8d 1 118 j 16 1 1888 One fixed and flash It | 3 57.3 | fiaah every 4 miu. OOMCABNIAV * Two fixed bright tie^to Lanrieo Douelan Port ILE DE GBOIX I One fixed br. It, and One fixed and fiaah. It L'OnmiT 1. Two fixed br. lights 2. Two fixed br. lighta 147 5a.a I On Croix Battery, and between 3 55-^ 1 Con(Huneatt_and Beuzeo, ia 6a 46 1 177 12 1849 one, N.E. i E., 2,052 yds. apart I ...... I jB«f It on E. of ConcameauPort | • 1 185 | 9 1 1867 I ...... iTwolts.bnUdingB.&W.ofentr. | .. | .. | .. | 1861 47 38.9 I Fixed It on N.W. part; the other 3 30.7 I on Fort on E. part Dr. It, I with rM flash every 8 miu. . . 47 44-9 3 -0.8 1. One It on Church Towor, the other at Lape}'riftre, N. 83" £., 1,826 yards apart 2. Two Its. in Port Louis, E. side, £. i N., and W. i 8., 481 yards apart la 1194 118 1 6d 1 171 1 10 1 6a 68 12 20 8 6a 30 10 62 12 1850 1850 1854 Etol niver Onu flxod r*d Uvhl I 47 3*-7 I At entrance of lU\'«r I Oa | 20 | 3 | 1859 ^ I >%*, ts(,frt^t!(»#IMt<> WtiXSfM. IMBTBOVfSM, 141 Name ft :;tti««ct^ of Light. Lat.N. Long. W. o' * 5 BELLE ILE Sauion Fort .... One fixed r«>Hght VvM» Port One fixed 1ir.]%lit.. GOULFAS UAt .... One rev. ht. It, 1 m. IIuiDio Id. .. One fixed bright light .dUIBEBON BAT La Teiorovsb *-" One fixed and flaah. light • • ■Htligfuen One fixed bright lb 1 47 tt.4 I On the end of Mole. ».k..*.» 374 1 On the Book, S.E. of Qidbescon 1 4d ] 89 1 12 | ,.•• a.8j F^eninBula. I^ed light, with | I flash every 8 min. 39.S I Tower, on Nt Jetty 59! r I 40 I 9 I 1856 •Lft Crac'h | 47 34.1 I On left Bank of Biver, K. by E. I .. I 29 I .1 lam Oner««landlbr.lt.[ 3 04] end S. by W., 674 yd«. apart \^\ 69 | * | »«« 32.9 I On the 8. Point of entrance to | 6a | 72 1 10 1 1840 54. I Morbihon .< Navalo Port I 47 One fixed bright It | a FenlanPoint [47 31* I On the Point ....|5a| 52 1 10 | .... Onefixedbrightligjit i a.3?,»i . ».; ^Al^rt-^V, LE FOUR I 47 Cue rev. br It, i min. | a CtOiric Port Two fixed bright Itl. LOIRE RIVBB Point 'lEve One fixed >^ light AlOVIIXOM TOWXB ComiiKOi TowxB 8t Naaaire ; . . . . Poimboouf Fort One fized bright It Pierre h I'OSil Bt. Nichoiaa I. Mindine Tower Fomio Port One fixed bright light PILIER ID. One fixed and flaah; It 47 i 17.9 I A round atone Tower (^ the I 2b | 79 ( 18 1 182S 37.9I Book I 18. I Kea/ the Chnrch, N. and 8., 50 I 6a ! 13 ] . j 1888 30.9 1 yards apart |.. | 33| ''|.... 47 a 47 a 14.5 I Marks the channel to the town | 6a 1 102 | 6 1 1850 lO.j 1 of St Martin | ... i One fixed bright light | 8a 1 112 ] 12 | .... ... I One fixed and flash. It, flash 2 m. | 3d 1 128 j 14 { .... ... I One fixed br. light, on Mole Head 1 6a | 26 | 8 1 133( 174 I End of Mole I 6a | 26} 8 1 18M a. 47 a 47 ° a ILE D'YEU, ....- IhJ T>^~A UOCU "~ |46 One fixed bright k. | ,... I One fixed light proposed (1861). | .. | .. | .. | .... ,,,, I iZMf light proposed (1861) | .. | .. | .. | .... ,... I One fixed light proposed (1861). | .. | .. | .. | .... 6:6 I On £TovoilIard Point I 6a | 59 | 9 11816 7- I I 1.6 I On N.W. loint Flash every i 2d { 105 | 18 | .... ai;7 I 4 min | 43.1 Tower, 108 feet high, on Mound, i la 1 177 1 18 I .... aj. xrom m. jrout i,aov yarns .. j 142 JtMWHSiOliBM, MdOteMlMrflr light UtV. Long. W. Dtmi; ijfte. 5M Bbiton Pobt ThiM fixed Ir. lib. 46 43< • a. at. One on Outer Jetty, N. nde of •Btnmee ; one (praposed, 1861) on Point CorbeMin; luid one atHeadofHturbonr ....*••• 6a| * * I Bt GOleaHmr-'Vie One fixed tWlij^ LA OHAUMB 4<4>-6|N.iideof Jetty "-I* 1 46 ifjj. I Tower, M fcet higik, en W. iide 1 4a One fixed bright Ii|^ | 147.4I of entrance to Okone | SaUei d'OIoiuM . l-i.i*.« | Fixed te.lt,E.idde of enttanoe | 5a Babom n'OiAMin | | Elaahing lig^t, building (1861). | .. 'Bodte Bonne Lt TeMeL | • | Fkopoaed (1861) | .. PSBTUiB BBET^N QnotriM Dv Oov Pqimt l.ifi ?o.8 | K., 82* E.» 7 miles from the I ffa Oneflxedbrig^lt | 1 28.3 | Tour dee Baleuus t jLtavuxoK Ponrr I 416 16.3 | Bearing 8. by E., lead* on to I 6a One fixed bright tt. 1 i ia.8 | Mid. Channel ..., | ILE DE BIe BAIiEINES M i4<7 1 Qp|r.W. Point Fladieeof «!• I lb One xer. br. li, I m. I i 33.8 | eqoal brilliancy ............ | HAVT-BANO DU I 46 15.8 I On the Shoal i 3a NOBD I 35.ao Oneflxedbr.lt | | I 8t Martin Port I 46 ia.4 I On Demi-Bastion, E. of en- | 6a One fixed bright It | i ai.9 ) ttanoe Fort de la Flotte One fixed bright It Cbaotbav PomT 46 1 1.3 I On the Mole | 6a I 19.4 SAOTBAV POIMT 1 46 8. 1 S.B. One fixed bright It ,' | 16.5 | Pdntof Island I 6a Boohelle Harbour I 46 9.4 One bright and one fMi i 0.3 fixed Bght I Upper br. It. on E. Quay ; lower It rtd, W. } 8., and E. f N., 267 yards apart • . < 8a Ili d'Aix One fixed bright light ILB D'OL^RON CHAaSIBON One fixed Iwight It LaP^rotine One fixed bright It Caiitean Pott Two fixed br. Iji. BIVEB OIRONDE CORDOUAN I46 0.6 I I 10.8 I On Fort at 8. Point of Island .. | 6a i6 a.8 I Tower, 141 Uset high, N.W. | la I »4.^ I Point of Island 45 jS.a I End of Jetty I 13.9 45 53. I Building, 1861. When in one iii.a| will lead in i 4J 35-> I ^ Jiandsome structure on the I lb 281 8 1« 10 • ••• 1860 OnO rov. br. it,, 1 m. I t 10.5 j Itock ••«• | to I 611862 US 1 12 1 .... 2Si 8| .... •• I *■• I •••• t* I •• I •••• 69il0|.... SS 1 10 i .... 164 I 22 I 1864 72 1 16 I 1864 62 I 6 I ..., 80 I 9 I 1849 72 I 14 I 1842 66|10fV... 141 I 18 I 1836 88 I 4 I 1868 • • I .. I .... 207 I 27 I 1727 I I 1864 xsAum w9BXBfxmwi* wmemt 143 r- hH OhMMter of Ught Ut.N. [Alff. W. e # i^ i) filVEB GXBONDE OOUBBB POINT (45 4<'5 t Toww,100fc«tIiiKh,QnK.poiBt I to| 131 i /^ ) 1880 One flzfld Mc^t It | i 15.4! ofBiTar,N. pwitofentnaoe | Falaub AMD Tbbbi I 45 38.9 I Std ligkt at Ftlidae, 600 Tudi ffa I 46 I 71 Nboui I I 6.9 I *- m bright hf^ oa Tetie 4a 1 118 ^2 | Oii0»wf4bl1nr.tt. ^dgra Tower 18<2 1842 Fontaillae 1 45 38.x j Wooden Tower, 105 ft high, on I 8b i 177 1 15 1 18M One rer. mf aadbr. I i 3>7 I the Table land. JM ana irAtto | light I I altaniately, for 20Mcs...r.*. I I I Bright light 00 Jetty | • 4536. lOnBaitbaokofBiTer ••....#• I •• 45 35*4 058.9 4 1 Oa flie Bandhilli at Bono on Baatbaak Boyaa St. Gtoorge One fxedfwf light SVfAC One iaedrvil light DiObatb One fixed bright It Tallam Bank Lioht Ynan Tonr de Bv Li Veaael Ono fixed bright It Miq[K>n light VeiNl Ho de Patiras ' One fixed bright It Trompelonqp Bichard Gaet Paoillao Blayo ^ Hourtin ' ABCACHOK BASIN One fixed bright Us^t C0NTI8 One rev. ni and br. It ADOTjaBmn Onft fixed bright light BIABBITZ One TOT. br. It k min. Baenk Pomr i 43 %y; \ W. Folat of St Jesn de Lus j 5a { 115 { 18 i .... One fixed bright light | 1 41M Bay .t«..M | 45 34-3 I Oa Am Point « 3.4 1 45 30.7 I One fixed bri^ light, in four I 5a o 59.1 1 fkthoma, on W> noe •......• | 45 97.6 lOnWeatBaakofUfor I 5a o 45-3 I I 45 i7.6|OaWeitBuikofBiTer ...... | 5a o 45<9 I 4S is4|OntheNorthpartoftheIdaad 04a. I ,„,f, I lixed It, OB old Chapel, oa W. I Bank.. (FixedMltiOnW. rideofBiTerl 4a ...... IFixedtWlight | .. 45 >>-9 I Two man Itf, on landiog>plaoe | .. * 44'9 I ...... |B.rfdeofBhrer. Lightatland« I .. I ing-phoe I |TwoU|^ta,piopoaed(1861).... I .. On Fenret Oapo, traaoe I*ropoaed (1861), 44 38.7 I On Fenret Oapo, N. aide of en- 1 la I 15.1I traaoe 44 4* I ao. 43 31.8 I OaJetty,8.did«ofentraaoa .. I .. I 31-5 I I 41 10.6 I Tower, 144 foot high, oa Point I lb 133.61 StMartin | 86 44 ISl 85 88 88 88 48 .. 56 167 *• 88 340 6 I .*.. 711860 12 1 1860 15 1 1828 1 1860 9 I 1845 10 1 1860 10 1 1860 12 I 1860 15)1860 8 I 1845 • • I •• • • «9 I •••• •0 I ttto • • I • e e t 18 I 1840 «. I •• .. 6 I 1861 22 I .... Ui ilQiHTBffQMBl mMtm^ Sum aad ChorMtor of Ligbt. Long. W. Dcwniirtiaii, ^ II 1^ SI FVENTEUUABIA. One fixed bright light Pasaoks Pout Oue iSxed bright light S.VN SEBASTIAN . One fixed and fla^. It. MACHICHACO CAPE One fixed and fladi. It BILBAO One fixed bright light ' « ' t » r Saotoma. Castuo TTbdialkb Oue fixed and flash. It BANTANDER MOVBO ISLASD CAPE MAYOR One rev. br. It, 1 min. lianea BiTAOBSELLJi OUON , , ' bm- PENAS CAPE One rev. br. It i min; Atiljbs CCDILLERO - One fixed bright light CAPE BUSTO One fixed and flash It. pRRIO DE TAPIA ID. One fixed dud flush.' It PANCHA l6tAND One fijr.ed bright light CAPE ESTACA One rev. br. It., 1 'min. CAPE PRIOR One fixed bright light f s I On Castle. Bright light, wiOk | ffd 3 lo.i I r«i flash every 3 min | ...... I One fixed bright light ..c... |5a 43 30-3 i 1} miles from Port entrance.. •• I 2b 43 a?. I Light building (1861) ........ 1 . . 43 3^- I Building (1861) ,.... | 3Y,Af .fO)^ ■: SPini * VOKTUOAI. XIGHTHOU&ES. WMtCOMt MS Xaat «ia Chtnetar of Ught Lat. N. Long. W. o # DswniptioOt 4n» I Sri H a 0(»imna,8t Antonio Oaa. | \ Fixed lighi^bailding (1861) .... | 6a OISABOAS ISLANDS One fixed and flaah. It Oafb Yxllakos One fixed bright light CAPE FINIdTERRE One rev. br. It, i min. Capi Oi One TMf fixed Eght CAFE OOBBOBEDO One fixed bright light Saitoka. Island Ona fixed and flaah It Abosa Ibland One Jxed bright light BATONA or CIE8 ID. One rev. br. It, 1 min. VIGO One fixed and' flash. It POBTUOAL. PaToa de Yaxzim OPOBTO One rev. br. It, 6 min. CAPE MONBEGO One fixed bright light BEBLEKGAS One rev. br. It, 3 min. CAPE OABVOEIRO One fixed bright light CAPE BOOA One rev. br. and rtd light, li min. BIVEB TAGUS GVIA One fixed bright It San Jvlian One fixed bright It BUOIO Onerev.br.lt, If m. Belem One fixed rMl light i ai.8 5o.» 43 9 9.8 i».9 4» 5»-6 9 >5-4 4*54.8 9 IO.I 4» 9 34.^. 48 4» >7-8 1 9 o-4J 4* 34-1 8 5». 4* 8 11.4 54.1 1 «5.i 41. i 1 41 9.1 8 37-» 40 8 11. 554 39 »5- 9 31a 39 "•' 9 »4-3 38 4*5 9 30- 38 41. 9 >7» 38 39-7 9 ao. 38 9 3?- 18.1 38 9 40.8 17.6 On Ida Mayor, N. Peak. Fixed I 4d br. It, with r«i flaah every 4 m. | Oamarinas ........|4a S.F(nntoftheCape lib Octagonal Tower, 25 feet high, I 5a on the Oape | OntheCape I 3a S. Point Bright, with red flash | 4d every 2 min..... { On the N.W., or Oaballo Point | 4a I Monnt Faro, Middle Island «... I 2b OnCa8tleofLaGuia,lim.N.E. | 4d of Vigo. Flash every 3 min. Fishing Its., 15 m. N. of OporLo | . . At Nossa Sonhora da Luz. (Bad I • light.) I Sqnare tower, 100 feet high, on Great Berlenga Island Tower, 94 foet high, on highest I • part I Light red and white alternately. Bound tower, 62 ft. high, i mile N.E. of Oape Sijnare tower, 96 feet high, at I • xTossa Sonhora da Guia | Sqnare tower, 120 flaet high, in I • theFort { Tower of Lorenso, 70 feet high I • In Fort, near Oastle ,. I • 1 .. |..i 1358 l"l |225 l,io| |468 |20| 1 82 1 8| |103 |12| 1 821 10 1 1 88 18 1 |595 20 1 |102 10 1 1 .. ..! 1 220 20 1 |330 20 1 |365| 25 1 |182 15 1 |598 21 1 1207 12 1 1128 12 1 |110| 16 1 1 88| fl| 1853 1854 1858 186» 1853 1853 1851 1853 1844 • 1857 1834 1837 1848 1700 1772 1771 1848 1775 1847 CAPE ESPIOHEL I 38 14.9 I Sqnam toww, 100 Atet high, on j Is | 527 i 25 | One flxed bright light j '9 13.' | 'the Oape ■? 148 TOlSOOAl^ftSPAIV. UOHTHOUSES. W. 4 Soitlk OiMi Nmm nd CkUMlar of Ucht. lAt.N. Long. W. DcMiiptlaii, to. i -^ •^^a I One fixed bright |ic^t OAFE ST. YTSapST One NT. br. It, 2 min. OAPESAirrAHAiaA One fixed bright light 38 31.1 1 Cm Fort, at W. entrance of F-^r- | • | 490 | 6 1 1776 8 53. I boor 37 3. I On the OonTent 36 56. I On the Cape 7 46. 8PAI1I'. OTTADIANA BIYEB Fow fixed lights OPIBIiBIVEB Haelva Two fixed br. Its. Oariaya OUADAiaiTIVIB B, Chiidona Bs|^ta Santo Ifalandar Point One fixed bright It. Salmedina Books BoiiaaEft CADIZ Onexey. It, 1 min. OAFE TBAFALGAB TABIFA One fixed bright light Algedras One fixed green light OIBRALTAB LOROPA POINT One fixed bright It. Old Mole, 8. New Mole Head Bagged Staff Old Mole Head, N. MAAOCOO CEUTA One nr. bright It 37 "• 7 18. Building, 1861, at Ayamonte. Two Its. at Bivsr Mouth ; and two on Christiana or Hignerita Id., E. Hide of entrance .«.«•« • I 220 I 20 I 1846 • 1 109 I Iff I 1860 Sonfh Coast ••I ••|««|*««t 37 13.4 I On the Bar. In one lead over I • | .• | 8 J 1863 6 51.6 I .the Bar | I Fixed It in BiTor,building (1861) | 3a | ., ] ,. | ,... I Temporary It on Church Tower 1 6a | 72 | 8 1 1866 ...... I Fixed fwf light •(••I •• | .. | 1864 364^.31 I .. I 36 I 6 I 1864 6 21.9 I I ^5}*; I Fixed bright It buflding (1861) | .. | .. | .. j .... {Fixed bright light | .. | 62 | 7 | 1864 36 3i.a I W. Tower of San Sebastian, 127 | lb | 146 | 20 | 1866 6 1^.9 I feet Br. & r«i flash alternately | 3j 'J; I Building onthe Cape (1861).... I .. I .. j .. | .... 36 o. I On the Island, S. of town I la I 132 I 20 1 1813 5 3«-6 1 I I I I 1866 36 7.3 I Isla Verde, not shown from N. | . . I 46 I 6 1 1860 5 a6.i| toW 36 6. I On Victoria Tower, 60 feet high I la j 160 1 16 1 1840 5 ai. I I - I ffrMHtoN. ;br. toW. ;r«itoS. I .. I .. | .. | 1867 I Ji«i light at end of works | .. | .. | .. | .... I Green light at landing place . . . . | . . | . . | . . | . . . . I Fixed r«f light | .. | .. | ., | I860 35 53-7 I Tower, 88 ft. his^, on Mosqueros I lb I 483 I 23 I 1866 J17.5I HiU, AkninaPoiiit.. | ' ' BBITHK AXEBIOA. LIGHTHOUSES. HEWFOVKHLAXO. i*1 Vttw BBd Chmelar of Xitlit. LatH. tone. W. i)Moriptionf oko* «^. a BELLB ISLE One fixed bright light AMOTJB POINT One fiseclboright light Qpnnt Wadbax Islamd One fixed bright light CAFE BONAYISTA One rev. tt,br. aad rtd alternately, 2 min. GBmr Island One fixed bright light BAOALHAO, or BAG- CALXEU n). One rev. br. It, 20 s. HAEBOTJB GBACE One fixed bright light Two fixed Its. on Beaoh beacon St. John's One fixed bright light CAPE SPEAR One rev. br. It, 1 min. GAPE RACE One fixed bright b'ght CAPE PINE One rev. br. It, ^ min. CAPE ST. MARY One rev. It., br. and red idtemately, 1 min. GREAT BURIN ID. One rev. br. It, 20 sees. ST. PIERRE ID. Two fixed bright lights J» 53- 55 a»-3 5« >?•* 5* JO-9 49 3«- 53 4«- 48 43. 53 «. 48 30.7 I 53 6.3! White tower, 62 feet high, on 8. Point of Id., Straits of Belle Lde. Gun in fogs White tower, 109 fbet high, on the Pt, S.E. side of Foztean Bay. Whistle or gun in fogs Circular brick Tower, on the Island Tower, 86 feet high, striped rtd and white vertimliy, on Cape. gjtamiaratBs fitom BdlRook, . of Scotland.) S. dde of Oatalina Harbour, in Trinity Bay 48 5» A 47 4*;7 1 53 9-3 On N. end of Island, photal apparatus Holo- One light on Id. at entrance, 4 miles from the town. 2 Its., 11 yds. apaft, on Point of Bmch Entrance t 47 33.8 I On Fort Amherst, 8. entrance of 51 39.9 I Harbour. Gun in fog ■•••«• 47 30-9 5» 3fi-7 I 4^ 39a 153 *-6 4« 37- 1 53 31.8 46 54 49.4 9-5 Square tower, 38 ft high, striped red and iokite horizon 'Ally, on Cape Tower on Cape, with 8.E. oide striped red and wAtt« vertically Round iron tower, 66 feet high, with red and white bands, on theCape Light building (1861) 47 55 »-5 5- On Dodding Head 46 45-5 56 6-9 (French). OneonGalantryHd. ; the otner on Canon Point, St Pierre Harb.jfromMayto Deer. i» J 470 I 28 I 2a|16fi|18| a i 99 1 12 I • I Ko 1 30 ; #1 86 1 15 I lb I iO I 80 I • I 150 t 20 60 10 4a I 110 1 12 I • I 276 1 30 I .. I 180 1 171 • I 314 I 30 I lb I .. |.. I 2b I 410 I 30 I 2a I 210 i 18 • ..3 1868 1868 1868 1843 1867 1868 1836 1863 1862 1836 1856 1861 1858 • « • • • • • • /•; ... ; Gulf of St. Lawrence. ST. PAUL ID. One fixed br. It, N. end One br. rev. It. 1 min., on S.W. Point :,»n 47 138 60 8.3 Fixed It, on a Rock ; revol. light on S.W. Point. At the latter a fog bell and gun 1 '■'KT"^xd>s'4 .. 1144 120 .. 140 20 1830 1831 MAODAIiBN IDS. I 47 50,9 I Light on Bird P.ocTis, proposed | 61 9.3 I (1861) I • ! I •• I n» vamm UDBBJOk, lighthouses. oiiir«f stutiMiioe. Haa* Md Ohttwtw of Ught. LatN. Loof. W. I DtMriptiaii, fte. i ll OAFS BOZIEB One fixed bright light ANnOOSTI ID. HEATH POINT One ilzed bright li S.W. : OINT One rev. br. li, Im. W. POINT One fixed bright It. POINT DB MONTS One fixed bright light Biver St. Lawrence. Fatbbb Ponrr One fixed red light BICQUETTE ID. One rev. br. It, 2 min. BED ISLET BANE One fixed red light OBEEN ISLAND One fixed bright light 8tr. Tratsbbb 1/s. Vssa. Two fixed bright Its. STONE PILLAR One rev. br. It., li min. S 8 51.6 I White tower, 112 feet high, on | la 41a. I the Cape 49 5.3 I Onyoonioaltower, 90 (thig^; I • 01 4t.l I firam April to Deoember | 49 S3.7 I Conkal gny tower, 7ff feet high I • ^ '51.5 I Bound white tower, 109 feet I 2a 64 3a. I hifl^ I 49 19.6 I Bonnd white tower, 76 feet high, I . . 67 aa. I linuleN.E. of Point 48 3«-4 68 37.4 68 53.S I 48 4.3 69 33.1 48 3-3 69 a5.a 47 aa.a 70 15. 1 47 "-4 70 31.8 Bimonskr. From April 10 to | . . December 10 | On, Ty. Point. Honr gun, dnring I . . fogs and snow | On S.W. Point | . .. On N. Point. From April 15 to I . . December 10 J N.E. part of St. Bocque Shoals I . . 100 yards from S. Point of Islet | . . From April 15 to December 15 186 I 20 110 I 15 103 i 15 112 I 15 109 I 15 43 I 10 112 I 16 75 1 12 60 I 13 .. i 9 68 I 13 1858 1881 1881 1858 1830 1869 1844 1848 1809 1830 1843 -.;:.<'-„ v.. vr.-^..-.^ . '^YJ.je^X Note.— The Lights on the npper part of the Biver St Lawrence, and those on the Great American Lakes are omitted, as not being of service to oversea vessels. BBimK UnBUOA. UGHTHOUSBS. lEW BBUVIWIOK, fto. 149 HoM taA Ohanctir of Ucht. Ut.N. Loof t W. « / DMNHptfoOt to. il If HEW BBUUBWXOK. MISOOTJ ISLAND One fixed rwl light MIBAlIACan BAT One fixed Inifl^t It Shediao One fixed light |||S I. I White towwr, OB Birdi Point .. | .. | 79 | IS ,7 4.5 I White towwi OB BMntmeDM | • | 70 ( 14 I ^4 47^^ I PoiBt I the BwBittiMf I46 14.61 Alaatem, OB dhOBO Whai^inl *• I lf| 6 I6431.J " ^ VOVA SCOTIA. PiCTov Habbovs One fixed br. It., and one red light HOTOTJ ISLAND One fixed In^t It CANSO OUT N. Entbaxob One fixed bright It 8. IiirmAiTOB Two fixed bright lie. 45 4»4 6* 39.5 I 45 49* I 6s 30.1 I 61 S8.9 01 14.0 Frinee Edward Idaad. Bedeqne Harbour One fixed bright light Charlotte Town One fixed bright light «3-5 3 47-5 I 46 11.6 I 63 74 Towen ttr. red and white, rot- 1 • | 66 | IL tical 8. Point of enteanoe. I LowfrUghtrMf | White tower, OB E. Point I .. | 62|12 White tower, on W. irtde, 120 I • 1 110 1 18 yards in diore..... | Tower white, with bliiok dia- 1 .. | 2^ | ^ mond, on Eddy Point, 8 yda. 1 apart. .,,•.•••« ••«.... | A lantom, on Chreen'i Wharf, I .. | 16 ( 7 when praotioable | Blookhonae Pt, W. tide of en- 1 . . | 86 | 9 trance to Harbonr HILLSBORO' BAY One fixed bright light CARDIGAN BAY I ^ 8.8 One fixed bright light | 6a 17.7 Richmond Bay | 46 34.7 One fixed bright light | 63 42.8 Caaonmpemie One fixed bright light White brick tower, on Prim Pt, S.E.ofBay I 68 I 18 |J5i;t Breton Idand. On Panmnre Head, S. entrance I • | 80 1 14 of Oeorgetown Harbour .... | On Bill Hook, or Fifhir^r Id , I .« { 20 | 8 N. entrance • | White tower, on Sandy Idaad, | • | 32 ] 8 onN.aide «*«*«t(right It. STDNXT OOB fixed bright light FLINTI8L*J?I) One zevolvlng light 80ATABI ID. One iQT. bright light LOmSBUBa One fixed bright light a 1.5 I IJ.J 1^ J 59 45-8 I VOVA SGOTU- Ouvsboro Harbour One fixed bright light Arichat Harbour One fixed bright Ught CAPE CAN80 Two fixed bright Its. i6.i 7-3 46 II 59 45-8 46 a.a 59 40-3 45 54-6 59 57-> I 45 a».8 I 61 29.1 61 1.8 I 45 19-8 60 55.4 White tower, on Smnndt* or I •• Middle of iBland Tower, red and white, yert Plat 1 • Point, E. aide of Spaniah Bay | FUah every 15 sees. I. ••«•••••#! I ta WHITE HEAD ID. I 45 la. BeTolving It., 20 bocs. | 61 8. BEAVEB IDS. ' | ^ One rev. br. It, 2 uin. 6a 49.6 ao.a HALIFAX Devil Island One fixed »'«f light Sherbrook Tc wer One fixod luight light bambro id. One fixed bright Ug^t MALAQUASH, or LU- NENBUBO BAT One rev. light, 1 min. One fixed bright light CAPE LE HEYE One rev. It, i nun. Mbtwat, or MmwAT HiAD One fixed bright It. LIVERPOOL BAY CoFPHf laiiAND One rev. br. It, 2m. Fort Point \n 34« 3 27.9 44 36.6 63 31.9 44 a6.a 63 33.6 Sao. fi»5•7 S6. . 34. White tower, on Trap Rock, N.E. I -• Ft Bright, 1 min.; Jark, im. | Tower, wh., with bl. vert stripe | •• on S.E. Point of entrance .... W ^de of entranee ; near Peart Point, Ghedabuotoo Bay .... Tower, white, 8. entrance; on Maradhe Ft., Madame Island In one tower ; str. red and white ■hari*. : on N. part of Gran- , beny Island White tower, on S.W. extremity Towv, white, with 2 black balls, on S.E. mrt of S. BeaTer, or Williamlsknd Tower, red, with white belt, at 1 B. entrance j Tower, white, with red roof, on Mauger Beach, K side of entr. White tower, on middle of Id. Tower, red. Upper It br. 46 sees., dark 10 sees. ; 83 feet above lower lic^t c. White tower, on 8. side of Ironbound Island 44 3- 64 36. )tt Point I A4 3.7 I One fixed bright It. | 64 39. | Tower, white, with black square, on W. ride of entrance Tower, striped red and white I horiaontaUy, on B. Point , , , . | 3-7 I Whita tower, on Furt Point • • • • I • t 298 I 21 i 18M 70 1 14 1 1882 65 1 12 I 1856 90 1 15 I 1889 85 1 16 1 1842 * 80 I 6 I 1846 84 I 8 I 1851 75 I 15 i 1815 40| 9i 05 I 11 ! 1858 70 I 12 I 1846 45 I 8 I 1852 58 I 10 I 1815 115 I 20 I 1758 »« ' " I 1882 56| 8 70 I 18 1 1855 44 1 10 I 1851 80 I 10 I 1812 30 I 7 I 1855 V BBXTHK AXIRICA. UaBTHOUBES. IKOTLWO/rUL m VuM Md CimMtw of Light Lat.N. Long. W. Detoilption, fto. > J BooQBD IilAin) Habb. I 43 36. One fixed brifl^tl^ght | 65 6. White tower, on the Ooll Bock I .. | 01 | 10 | IMS SHELBiUBNB . Two fixed bright Iti. 43 375 65 16.5 FOBT LATOVB I 43 36.9 One MT. It, 40 sees. | 65 aS.7 Pnbnioo Harboor [43 35.7 One fixed rti lig^t | 65 47. BayofFondy. ' SEAL ISLAND I 43 One fixed Inight light | (6 YARMOUTH, or CAFE FOtJROHXJ One rev. br. It, If m. BRTSR ISLAND One fixed bright light PETBB ISLAND I Two fixed bright lights DIOBT, or ANNAPO- LIS Marshall Core, or Port Williams Onefix.br.(or jTMn) It Margaretrille One fixed br. (or rtd) It BLACK BOOK POINT One fixed bright light HORTON One fixed bright light Basow op Mihm One fixed bright light PorsboTongh One flxdl bright light U *i.6 47-5 9» 14.9 *3S '55 ao.9 40.8 47-3 56.8 16. 61 3- 4- 10.8 48. 6.3 a. 46.9 Tower, striped bl. and wh. rer- ticalhr,on Cape Roseway, Mao- nut Id. Lts. vert., 38 n. apart Tower, white, with black ball, I .. on Baccaro Point, E. side . . . , | White tower, on Beacb Point, | . . S.E. Bide of entrance White tower, i mile inland off • S.Point Tower^ striped red and white verticaUy, on S. Point of E. Cape ,,..-,,,» White tower, on W. Point .... White tower, S. entrance to | . . Grand Passage. Lts. horizontal | Tower, striped yerticalljr, on S. | • Point of entrance | Appears grtm within four miles I . . r Appears rtd within four miles . White tower, on S. Shore I .. White tower,. on the BInff .... I .. Afpt i: RiTBB I 4S Twu fixed bright ItM. \ 64 GuMniiToNS Island | 45 One fixed bright Ufht | 64 a6. 50. 43 » 37 4 White tower, on Burnt Coat I . . Head I White tower, on Partridge Id., I . . on W. side of River | White tower, on Cape Capstan. I . . Horizontal lights, 34 ft apart | I White tower, on W. part of I . . Island ., *•!. •••.•«... I 100 I 18 62 I 10 49 I 12 28 I 8 98 I 18 117 I 20 66 115 40 I 10 76 I 18 .. I 6 ..I 6 45 I 12 90 I 20 70 I 13 80 I 9 40 I 10 60|ia 1808 1800 1804 1880 1839 1883 1800 1817 1809 1809 1848 1801 1809 1802 1848 1809 Hi BBITI8H AJfERIGA. UGHTHOnSES. VEW BBT7V8WICK IImim and Chanwter of Lifht. lAt. N. Long. W. o * Deaoription, 4ke. 1^ S qykPE ENRAO^ / One fixed bright light jbuAGO One MT. br. It, 20 sees. I ST. JOHN'S HABB. Paktkidoi Island Om fixed bright It Beaoon Tower One fixed bright light LEPBEAU Two fixed bright Ii,~^ts OAMPOBELLO ID. One fixed bright light PoBT St. Andbxw One fixed bright light OBBAT MANAN ID. One fixed bright light MAOHIAS ISLANDS Two fixed bright lighta OANNET BOCK One rer. light, 20 aooa. \t 6 3^' I Square white tower, on the 4 4A.7 J Cape 45 19.6 I Tower, red and white horizontal 65 31.9 I bands, on Bock off the Head 45 14- 66 3.5 66 27.1 44 57-7 66 53.9 45 4-> 67 4- 44 45-7 66 44. 44 30« 67 5-5 ti ^i Tower, striped vertically red and white. Steam whistle every min. in fogs. Bell buoy near I Striped vertically, white and red I Tower, striped horizontally, red and white Its. vert, 28 ft. apart I Tower, white, with red cross, on N. Point • I Iffl I 16 I 1640 ..I 70 115(1848 • I 119 I 20 1 1882 • i 35 1 10 i 1828 "I 58|"l"" • I 64 I 15 1 1829 N. Point of entrance ( .. | 85 { 10 1 1888 .. 1 148 1 17 I .... "I "h«|l882 .. I 66 112 I 1881 Swallow's Tail, J7.E. part, build- ing, 1861 , OnE.Id. Guninfogs. Lt8.E.S.E. and W.N.W., 56 yards apart Tower, half blk. half wh.,vertic., I ouS. port Fliwih every 20 sees. { .,-«^«? lii «'?u, .(VwWftii M'aV*' 1 t '"f.) J'b'^J ■ # . ...*•■ «•.«•. <*-! '(fT»»*ri- M i^-^- > . , i .tMSH.1 ■3^ •■J?. ..suttf 1 ^ f *«(i«4tti.t»*i**.tfl» i^iiiUri ( mraiBD STATES. UGHTHOtrSES. 168 Name and Ohaneter of light. Lat. N. Long. W. DMCriptton, *e. ^^. A. WEST QUODDY HEAD One fixed bright It. Iimu Kivut One fixed and flaah It. Bound Idand LiBBT Island One fixed bright light MOOSE PEAK One TOT. br. It, 30 •. KASHES ISLAND One fixed & flash, red It Narbaovaous One fixed bright light PETIT MANAN One fixed and flash. It ■WiNTKR HaUBOVB One flxed bright light MOUNT DESERT One fixed bright light BAKERS ISLAND One fixed and flash. It BEAR ISLAND One fixed bright light Bass Hahbovr Hiad One flxed and flaJi. rtdUght Spoon Idand PENOBSCOT BAT Fly, or Qrbkn Id. One flxed bright It SADDLEBACK LEDGE One flxed bright It IIerox Nrck One flxed and flash. rtd light Widow Island Dim Inland One flxod bright It. Eaolb Island One flxed bright It. Pumpkin Iniand One flxed bright It. 44 49- 6657. 44 39-4 I 67 10.6 I Near East Port, S. side. Fog beU 8a 1 1 J? 34. » ii.a ta 38.9 3»-7 ^ 28.7 44-5 44»9-4 67 49-5 44". 67 5a. n 31.8 5.6 ti 59-5 4-7 n 15-7 14.1 it 19. '7-5 On Island, at entrance. Flash I fid eyery 1| min | InMaohiasBay. Proposed (1861) | .. In Machias Bay. Qroy tower, I 4a 85 feet high. Fog bell | White tower, 40 feet high, on I 2b Mistake Isknd | E. side of Pleasant River I 4d Red tower, 29 feet high, on S.E. I 5a Point of Pond Island | Grey tower, 109 feet high, on 8. I 2d toad, of Island | On S. Point of Mark Island. I 5a Frenchman Bay | Grey tower, 60 feet high, on the I 3a Rock. Fog bell | Off Mount Desert Id., French- I 4d man's Bay. Flash every li m. | Cranberry Islands I 5a 44 >6-5 68 33.6 I 15.8 68 37.7 J I t.8 8 43.8 44 >» 68 51. 44 9> 68 41.5 44 >3» 6845. 44 »9 68 45- E.side I .. # Isle au Haul Bay. Bmlding, 1861 | .. Edgemoggin Reach. On S.E. | 4a Point S.W. end of Isle au Ilaut Island | 5a S. Point of Green Island | 5d Proposed (1801) | . . Mark Island, Isle au Ilaut Bay I 4a On Point of Island, Isle au Haut I 4a Bay I Guide to Buck Harbour I 5a 1 133 1 17 1 1 40^21 i ..i ..I i fi2{ 181 1 65 1 1*1 1 471 12 1 1 45 12 1 1125 171 1 37 11 1 1 75 |14| 1 105 17! 1 97 15 1 1 56 18 1 1 *"* |..| 1 26 1 »l 1 SI |13| 1 92 110 1 1 ' * |..| 1 52 |W| 1 106 |16| 1 27 1 »l 1808 1855 • • « • 1856 1866 1868 18/y6 M55 1856 1867 1855 1856 1868 • • ■ • 1866 1366 1868 t • ■ t 1867 1887 1854 154 UNITED STATES. LIGHTHOUSES. HAIHE. Niune and Charncter of Lljjht. Lnt. N. Long. Vf. o / Description, Sco. 0*= 1 •S . ill ^1 8 PENOBSCOT BAY MATINICUS EOCK Two fixed br. Its. 43 5'a 68 48. N.N.W. and S.S.E., 60 yai-ds apart. Fog bell 3a M »« ^^^"^ Whitehead Island 44 0.3 69 6. Foe bell 3a 70 1 13 1 1866 Oho fixed bright It. ^ ^'0 UwA* •••■•••• 4«Sf«vV« f*** OWLS HEAD One fixed bright It. 44 6.2 69 I. W. entmnco. Fogr bell 4a 1 100 1 16 1 1856 Brown's Head | One fixed bright It. j 44 6-5 68 J4. S. Head of Fox Island 5a 1 39 1 12 1 1866 Neomo Island 1 One fixed bright It. | OuiNDEM Point Oue fixed bright It. Dice's Head One fixed bright It. FORT POINT Olio fixed bright It. 44 "-7 69 0.4 44 16. 68 53-3 44 a3-4 1 68 48.3 1 44 28.3 68 48.7 S. sido of entrance to Cnmden Harbour 4a 1 62 1 12 1 1866 N. side of GUkey Harbour, Long Island ....•••• >.•••••• ••.• 6a 1 39 1 11 1 1856 Near Costine, W. side of en- trance 4a 1 130 1 17 1 1868 Entrance of Penobscot River • . 4a 1 103 1 16 1 1867 Tknaxt IlAnnorF Ono rev. br. It., 1 min. 43 58-7 69 10.7 N.E. side of S. Island 6a 1 66 1 13 1 1867 Marshall's Point One fixed bright light 43 55-6 69 14.7 Entrance to Horring-gut Harb. • 6a 1 31 1 10 1 1867 ir ANHEIGIN ISLAND Ono rev. br. It., 1 min. 43 4f-3 69 18.4 Fog bell, on Monana Island .... 2a 1 176 1 19 1 1866 Franklin Island One fiN d and fiash. It. 43 55- 69 23.3 N. end o^* Island. W. of entrance to St. George's River 4d| 64 1 12 1 1866 T'ENJIAQUID POINT . )ne fixed bright light 43 50-4 69 28.5 8.W. cntranco to Bristol Bay . . 4a 1 76 1 14 1 1867 Burnt Island One fixed br. light 43 49- 69 37-^ W. side of Townsend Harbour. . 4a 1 61 1 18 1 1868 T'jNimicK's Head Ono rev. br. It, J min. 43 5:. a 69 40.5 E. aide of SUoopscot River 4b 1 40 I 12 1 1861 Pond IfAL/.ND One fixed brif^htl/ht 43 44- » 69 ^6. W. ontr.ince of Kennebec River, Fog boll 6a 1 64 1 13 1 1866 SEGTIIN ISLAND One fixo.l bright li^:);* 43 4»4 69 45a Oflf Kennebec River. Fog bell la| 180 1 20 1 1857 rORTLAND,orCAM(V>D AY C. ELIZABETH Ono roT. br. It., 1 m. Ono fixed br. liglit 43 33 9 70 1 1.7 800 yards apart. I'i)g boll .... 2b ul 17 1868 PoillLAND ilARllOtU Ono iixod br. liglit Broiikwntor | 43 37 4 70 ia.6 1 On the Head, S. sido. Fog boll 4a 1 81 1 14 1 1855 R»i light on N.E. part | rta| 23 1 8 1 1855 Wood Island • , Ono rev. red It, I min. « a? '4 70 19.4 Near eaco nnrbotir 4b i 62 j 13 1 two mnXBD STATES. LIGHTHOUSES. HEW HAMFSHIIIE, fto. 155 i 1 11 ^ » 8 17 1858 14 I 1855 8 I 1855 lO I IBM AU I «<7VO Kaine tnd Choraeter of LigUt. lAt. N. Lonjr. W, Description, fto. §5 8^ Goat Island One fixed bright light BOON ISLAND One fixed bright light NEW HAMPSHIBE- WHALE'S BACK Out) fixed aud flash It. PORTSAfOUTH One fixed bright light WHITE ISLAND One rev. br. It., ^ min. KA8SACH\i'SETTS. Newbukt Port Two fixed bright Its. Ifswich IIahhour One fixed A: flash It., & Cue fixed bright light Wigwam Point One fixed bright light Straitsmouth Harbour One fixed eright light CAPE ANN Two fixed bright lights Gloucester Harbour One fixed bright light Ten T oitkd Island One fixed bright light Bakkr's Inland Two fixed bright lights Mariilehead Hariiour One fixed bright light Egg Rock One fixed red light BOSTON BAY OUTER MINOTS LEDOK One fixed br. V. v>aetliir>h. br.lt., im. W. onil of Spit LONG ISLAND HD, 41 48.4 I 6. (tide of entrance to Port, Mor- 70 49.3 I rimack River, 167 yds. apart 4> 4>.i 70 46.2 4* 39-7 70 4i.a 4> 39-7 70 35.5 4» 38- 3 70 34.6 4> 34-6 70 40.1 42 36.1 70 40.2 42 I", 2 70 47-5 4» .10-3 70 jti 42 26. 70 54- « 4a 16. 1 70 4J.8 42 19.6 70 537 Flash every H min. Lts. E. ^ S., and W. i N., 173 yda. apart 5a 6d 6a E. of entrance to Annisquam I 5a Harboui- | On Island, N. of Cape Ann .... I 6a On Thatcher's Id., N. by E. J E., I . . & S. by W. i W., 298 yds. apart | . . On the Point, E. side. Fog I 4a boU I Gloucester, or Capo Ann Har- 1 6a bour 43 20. I N. aide; Mouth of Cape Per- I 5a I 38 I 11 I 1833 70 28.2 I poise Harbour . « | | | | 857 43 7.3 I W. part; off York Harbour ... I 2a I 133 I 17 I 1812 70 28.7 I I 1 I 1 1864 43 3-J I ^•'E. side of Portsmouth Har- I 4d I 70 42.1 I bonr. Flash every l^nun. .. | | 43 4.2 I S.W. side of Inner entrance of I 4a 70 42.8 I Harbour | 42 58. I S.W. Id. of Isle of Shoals | 2b 70 38.2 58 12 1829 18J5 70 U 1R04 1854 87 15 1821 1858 S. side of N.E, entrance to Salom 4a Hurb. 13 yds. apart. Fog bil' S. side uf entrance ............ - 6a 54 I 13 20 I 5 40 I 12 20 50 I 12 33 I 11 98 I le 98 I 16 60 1 13 49 I 12 87 I 15 64 13 1. ».ii.'. - ' 2n| Grey granite tower, on T. thnRsot Rocks N. entrance of Harbour i 2o 1809 1857 1837 1856 1801 1857 1850 1857 1841 1849 1837 1857 1831 I80G 1707 18.57 1s;m l.S.)(i 43 12 Off Niihant I 5a | 87 | 8 | 1856 84 I 14 I 1800 1'84 ) 8()9 I One fixed red light | 6a | One fixed bright light | 70 57.7 1 4* !9.8 I N=E> ond of Island , I i.. I 90 16 35 71 80 1 A a •* 1856 l»Oi m unXBD BlvfiTBB. LIGHI^HOtrSES. XjiBtAGHuranni. Naioe and Chanetw ^^ Ught. Lat. N. Long. W. Deioriptton, tea. SCRUATB *^ One fixed bright light | 70 43.1 CAPE COD BAY PLYMOUTH I 4a o.a Two fixed trtight its. | 70 36.3 Eacb Point I 41 3.7 One fixed & flash. It. | 70 14.8 4a X2.2 I On Cedar Point, K of entrance i 4a 1 49 | 12 I 1812 liO.vo Point One fixed bright It. 3kJ *yo'£ Beach Gv.g dxed bright It. BO.TWCSGATB IhLAKD Ciij ixed blight It, One flxeu briah' I' . CAPE con HIGH- la:^'Jjs One flxfd brijl.t Hgbt , Navj?et BEA.r-. * Tk o-i flxbd bv'jijht Its. 42 1.9 70 10.3 0>imet Point, N. side of Harb. N.W. and S.E., 10 yds. apart N. W. Point of Cap^;- Cod. ilash every li mi- Fcig bell .... On 8hoal, S.'W. snttance to j 6ft Pioviaoetown Ha'lwur j • 1 I i lfi«« V? j 16 I 1/69 ; I 1856 U\ \i I »t. 8 i il866 1 28 1 11 1826 1866 41 55.8 I Head of Wellfleet Bay I 6a 70 3.2 I I 41 5r.6 j N. side ci entrance to >*'.''ell- 1 4a 70 4 9 I fieet i 41 43. i i W. side of entrance to Bui-n- 6 ! 1858 40 i 12 ; 1822 I .''58 ■n- I 4a j 3G 11 I 1836 1867 vo n.i 1 stable 4* :i,-ii I T-t 3.9 I Capo Truro \ la | 196 | 20 | 1797 41 51.6 I A! Eostham, E. of Cape Cod; | Oa H S7-i I ^- A'^d S., 60 yds. apait . . . . ; CHATHAM HA?tB. | 41 40.3 I W. Sid a; N. and S., 23 yards I la Two ^xou br?ji,ht lights j 69 57.2 | apart | MoNOMOY Point I 41 33.6 I Cape Malabar, S. end of Cape I 4a Ono ^ed brigl 1 3{ght | 69 59.8 | Cod | l'>oi.;.i)RK Bir Lt. Yssa. | | Ono fixed br. It., off Chatham . . { • BUO TEVITVL LlOHT VkSS. O. .< -ixed bright light 93 10 1837 1866 70 14 1808 1867 33 11 1823 1867 46 12 1 18i9 4> 34- 69 57 ■< • • • fl • • 4» 34-3 70 '5 9 Handkp,?chisp Lt. Vf.88. One fixed bright light Bn«s Riv-3r I 41 39.1 Ono fixed bright light | 70 8.3 BISHOP AilD CLERKS BHOAL One rev br. It., im. 8VCC0NN£S8ET ShOAL Lt. Vfsbel One fixed bright It. C' ^1 J fixed bright light SANKATY HEAD One fixed and flash, j 69 58.2 light, j 2\ milos S,S.W. } W., from I • ; 40 | 11 | 1862 Monomoy Point | In 6i trra., 1^ min. fh>m 8. part I • t 40 I 10 I 1866 cfS\oal I N. of Vineyard Soond | 6a | 40 | 8 | 1864 69 I 14 I 1868 40 1 10 I 1864 4» a:4| 70 3- I 41 17. *-,,M 'J-i.-. ,>ij|fi <./•■;. ■,;- 1,-., • a,' N.part. Fogboll | 4b Tn 6 fhiR. Between Sucoonnesset and ElJridge Bhoals. Fog bell and horn White tower, on N.E. Point of I 3a ' 70 I 14 lalaud I 17«9 1867 SOUTH SHOAL LT. VESSEL Two fixed bright Its. 40 69 I Tower, wh., red, wh., on E. part of Nantucket Isliiud. Flush of 10 sees, every min In 14 fms. 2 miles 8. of S^ Fog bell, horn, and gun : «e0 I 20 I 1849 I 44 I 12 I 1860 Kune XmrHBD flIATBB. LIGHTiaOtrSEg. MASaAC aUBKlW . 157 6 I 18*^8 I 1853 13 ; J 822 8 I 1864 14 I 17rt9 I 1867 20 I 1840 2 I 182G Nune and Churuter of light. Lat.N. Long. W. DCMiiptlOB, *o. J^ VmEYAED SOUND OAYHEAD One flash, br. light Hyannis Harbour One fixed bright It. Tnokannck Shoal Lt. Yesael One fixed bright It. Nantucket Cliff Two fixed bright Its. Srant One fixed bright It Nantucket Harbour One fixed bright It. CAPE POGE One fixed bright It. EOOABTO'WN One fixed bright It. HotMBB Hou One fixed bright It. NonsQVB Poorr One fixed br. light TASPAiinr CoYB One fixed br. light VnfETAKD SOVMB Lt. Yesbbl Two fixed br. Its. BUZZARD'S BAY CXTTTTHWNK One fixed bright It. DuMrtr-.u Rook One fixed bright It. Cl\iik's Point One fixed bright It. Ftdmer's Island One fixed bright It Ned'8 Tnnrc One iixed lir. • igiii CiRnl! - -u One /. br.lt, IJnr "WiNo's Nkck One fixed bright It i'oint of Rook* 4« ao-9 I 70 50.4 1 41 3f- 70 18.6 41 16.7 70 17. 1 T. Point, Ifartha'a Vineyard I Sound. Flash every 10 sees. | Inside the Harbour I 41 17.4 70 5-8 41 16.4 70 5- 41 35.3 70 a7-3 41 »3-4 70 30.4 41 38.9 70 36.4 41 30.9 70 40.5 41 aS.i 70 43-7 41 23. 70 57.6 41 34.8 70 57-3 4« 3a-3 70 55 5 4« 35-5 70 S4-3 I 4« 37-^ I 70 3+S ! 4' I J 1 7'-' 4«- I 41 40.] I 70 43-3 In 8 fins. On Cross Rip, N.W. of Nantucket Fog bell, and horn On the Beach, N.W. of Harb., N.W. and S.E., 100 yds. apart Red tower, on the Point From a window, on S.E. side . . N.E. Point of Martha's Vine- yard Sound .' W. side of entrance to Har- bour lo I 170 I 20 I 1806 6a I 36 1 8 1 1856 • I 39 t 71 1828 1865 8 I 4 I 1838 10 I I 1866 4a I 46 I 11 I 1794 1866 W. Chop of Harbour E.S.E. of entrance to Wood's Hole Harbour W. side. In 13^ fathoms, near Sow and Pigs Rocks S.W. Point of Island Off Round Hill .... W. side of entrance to New Bed- ford Harbour N.E. end, in New Bedford .... |N. :^de of MattapoiNtt Har- bo-jj' ' E. side of entrance to Sippican I Harboui - . . , I Head Oi Buzzard's Bny, in .Sand- I wi'jh I Building (i860 on \7. sine of I entrance to Woit.port Harb. . , 24 I 5 I 1820 I I 1866 4a I 66 I 13 1 1801 I I I 1867 4a I 87 I 12 I 1828 I I I 1866 4a I 60 I 13 I 1817 I I I 18fi7 6a I 80 I 13 I 1828 i I 1 1866 6a I 80 I 13 I 1817 1866 34 I 9 I 1847 23 1855 6a I 42 I 12 I 1823 I I I 1867 5a I 42 I 12 I 1828 1867 5a I 57 i 12 I 1800 I I I 1866 5a I 32 I 9 1 1849 1866 6a I 43 I 11 I 1849 I I I 1866 6b I :i6 I 10 I 1819 I I I 1857 i^i. I 44 I 10 I 1849 1866 U8 TfmiD 8TATI8. tlGHTHOUSES. BliodA Iilaad, in, II Hum and ChaiMter of Ught. Lat.N. Long. W. Deaoription, &o. Si I II > BHODE ISLAND. Vwaw. Tw«»ixed bright lt8. 1 B^^AVER TATT. . One fixed Inight light 41 26.9 71 24.3 IiDO Bocx One fixed bright light KABBAGANSETT BAT OOAT ISthXD One fixed bright It 41 29.6 71 19.9 DUTCH ISLAND One fixed bright It. 41 29.8 71 24.5 PovLAR Point One fixed bright It. 41 34.* 71 26.5 PnXTDEMCE ISIAKD One fixed bright It. 41 364 71 18.3 Bristol Ferry- One fixed bright It 41 38.7 7» 15- Watiwick One fixed bright It 41 40. 71 22.9 Nayat Point One fixed bright It 41 43-5 71 20.5 POINT JUDITH One rev. It., IS sees. 41 21.5 71 29.2 BLOCK ISLAND One fixed bright light 4» 134 7» 34-8 \VATCH HILL One fixed bright light 41 18.2 71 51.8 CONNECTICUT. • ,■ •X- LONG ISLAND SOUNI \ Stoxinotow One fixed bright It 41 196 7» 54-6 Eel Grass Lt. Vessel One fixed bright It 41 18.4 7» 57.3 Moroan Point One fixed bright It 4r 18.9 7' 59-7 If. DuMFLiNO Island One fixed red light 41 16. 72 3.6 NEW LONDON One fixed bright It 41 19. 7> 5-7 Bafitlkt's Reef Lt. Vs. Two fixed bright Ita. 41 16. 7» 11.6 In 13 fin8.» E. side of entrance to Newport 50 40 12 1853 S. Pt. of Connecticut Id., on- I 8a | 96 J 15 I 1793 trance to Newport Harbour . . | | I | 1856 S. side of Newport Harbour. . . . | 6a | 30 | 11 | 1854 On Breakwater, Newport Har- 1 4a bour I S.end |4a NearWiddbrd I 5a East side, on Sandy Point I 5a N. side of entrance to Mount I 6a , Qope Bay ,... \ S.eLdofNeck I 4a Entrance to ProTidonco River . . I 4a 8. extremity of Narragansett I 4a Shore i N, Point of entrance to Long I 4a Island Sound | 3 miles 6.E. of Stonington .... I 4n ' ■ ■ ■ ■ ii 'Mi^: E. side of entrance ... 4 •••••• •> I 6a OntheShoal I • N. side of Fisher's Island Sound I 6ft Fisher's Island Sound. Fog I Ca bull I W. side of untranco to River I 4a I Thiiincs. Fcfj; whistle | | On Reef, off New London | ^ 33 11 182a 1857 56 14 182S 1867 51 12 1831 185u 30 1 10 1 1852 851 10 11855 54 ^.4 1826 1856 31 12 1828 1856 67 14 1810 1857 65 14 1829 1857 62 14 1808 1867 60 I 12 I 1823 1866 32 I 10 I 1836 1867 44 I 11 i 1831 1866 70 I 12 I 1868 I I 1866 })6 I 14 I 1800 I 1867 9. < I ,f. I 1846 .?5 I '^ 1887 TnriTEB STATES. LIGHTHOUSES. CONNEOnCUT- 159 Knmc nnd Charnoter of Light. Ut. N. Long. W. Description, &o. 5^ LONG ISLAND SOUND LITTLE GtTLL ID. I 41 One fixed bright It. 172 Gardiner's Island | . . . Pldm Island I 41 One rev. br. It., | m. | 73 Cednr Island One fixed bright It. 12.3 6.7 41 72 R.vYimooK Point One fixed bright It. Calves' Island One fixed bright It. Brockways Beach Devil's Wharf CoiiNPiEti) Pt. Lt. Ves. One fixed bright It. IIORTON'8 POINT One fixed bright It. FAULKNER ID. One fixed & flash. It. 41 72 10.4 13-6 a.4 ii-9 16.3 "•5 I 41 7» 13-5 234 41 7> 5- 27-3 S. side of Long Island Sound. Fog ben Fixed bright light, on N. Point W. end; N.E. extremity of Long Island Sag Harbour, Long Island .... "W. side of Mouth of Connecticut Biver 2 miles beknr Essex Town, E. side > Fixed br. It. , 2 m, above Essex Tn. Fixed br. It., 4m. above Essex Tn. In 7V fms.,'on middle of S. s?de of Long Sand Sboul On the Point 3a I 74 I 13 6a I 29 I 6 4a I 63 I 12 41 72 NEW HAVEN HAR. I 41 One fixed bright It. 172 STRATFORD POINT I 41 One rev. br. It., ^ m. [73 SxttATFouD Pt. Lt. Ves, I 41 Two fixed bright Its. | 73 Bridgeport 1 41 One fiixed red light | 73 Otn Field Point I 40 One fixed bright It. | 73 Black Bock Harii. | 41 One fixed bright It. (73 Eaton's Neck 40 One fixed bright It. 73 Lloyd's IIaiibour | 40 One fixed bright It. | 73 Xohwalk Island 41 One rev. red and br. 73 It, li min. Great C.iPTA ."•/"'■■ j 40 One fixed br -•'■!:. | 73 Execution Bock.s | 40 One flxod hri 243 54.8 26.2 2.9 25.4 Off Guilford Harbour. Flash I every 1 J niin | On Five Mile Point, E. side of I entrance , W. entrance to Bivor. In 11 fins., on Middle Ground . . 2 miles S.W. by W. of town. . . . S. side of Long Island Sound . . On Fairwoather Island E. side of entrance to Huntington Bay N. side ■i »-?? ':i\.J W. end ; at W. entrance of Nor- walk Biver 6a I 34 I 10 4a I 80 I 13 Ga| .. I 3 6a I .. 1 3 6a I . . I 3 • I 40 I 10 3a I 110 I 18 4d I 98 I 15 4a I 93 I 1' 4b I 63 I 12 6a I 23 1 6 4a I 67 I 13 6a I 62 I 12 3a I 138 6a I 48 I 10 4b I 40 I 11 589 37-7 Near Greenwich Point ........ 52. I Off Sancki rpint. Fog bull .... "J- ii-i. 4a I 62 I 12 I 4a I 64 I 12 I I I 1806 1867 1865 1827 1866. 1839 1865 1803 1857 1866 1856 1856 1856 1857 1801 1856 1305 1856 183: 1837 1855 1861 1854 1823 1855 1808 1854 .a lita7 1867 1826 1867 1829 1858 1848 1856 160 TJVITED STATES. LIGHTHOUSES. HEW TOBX, fto. Name ud Character of Light. Lnt. N. Long. W. Deseription, fto. »rtS .9 . 1^ ■i LONG ISLAND SOUND SANDS POIKTT One rev. br. It, i m. Thhooo'b Neck One fixed bright It. 40 73 5 1.9 I E. entrance to Cow Bay 44 ' I ... I 4b 4~ vS-.i S- '< Point; atN.W. of entrance I 6a 73 47/ J toEast Jiiver OTEW YOllK AND NEW JERSEY MONTAUK POINT One fixed and flash. It. GREAT WEST, or BHINNECOCK, BAY One fixed bright It. FIRE ISLA^TB One rev. br. 't, 1 min. NEW YORl BAY SANDT nOOK Lt.V. 4» 7« 40 7a 40 73 4.2 I E. end of Long Island. Flash 51.7 I evory 2 min 51- 30. N. side ; ;i,v. or, i6ii ft. hig^, on Pondquogae Point 37.9 I S. side of Long Island. Yellow 13.3 I tower, 150 feet high Id la lb 40 28. Two fixed bright Its. | 73 53. raOHLANDS OP NAVE8INK One fixed br. It, aad One rev. br. It, i m. SANDY HOOK Three fixed br. Its. If AiN CiiAmriL Two fixed bright Its. OsDMBT'S CHAVrXEL Two fixed bright Its. Swash Chaxnel Two fixed bright Its. PRINCES BAY One fixed & flash It Fort Tohfkins One fl^ed bright It. BoBBixn Rkef Oae fixed bright It. NEWARK BAY BiROKN Point One flxed bright It. Oc"i n- Stake Passaic River , Elbow '■ "' 40 73 *3-7 59-4 40 27.6 74 0-4 40 74 25.2 4- 40 27. 74 8« 40 7^ m 40 74 •3- 40 74 3^: 4-4 40 39.4 74 4-a 6 miles ^m Sandy Hook and Nave.dnk lights S. of Sandy Hook, 100 yards apart I S. entrance to New York Harb. E. It. is N. by W. J mile, and W. It N. W. i m., from main It One near the Beach, the other on Chapel Hill, half mile apart . . Near Point Comfort On Stateu Id. ; nenr Elm Tree Station, and Vew Dorp 1 2b 3a 6a 6a 2a 8a 2a 3a 2a S.E. end of Siuten Id. every 2 min. ....... Flash I 3d <-.'n Statcn Island, W. sido of Narrows . . , N.W. part of No'^, York Har- bour. Fog Iv I On a R.'!. . • lit ' ICO to Newark I Bay. \ og bell | I Fixed It. It., opposite Eliz. Port | I Fixed br. It, at Mouth of River | I Fixed br.U.jim.N.ofPasJwicLt | 4a 4a 6a 6a 6a 6a 53 1 15 C6I 10 160 I 20 160 I 20 166 I 22 45 110 248 I 21 CO ; 16 35 10 35 10 60 224 12 40 I 12 76 14 1809 1866 1826 1855 1796 1860 1867 1826 1858 1823 1864 1828 1840 1762 1857 1866 1856 59 189 106 I 16 89 1 15 6r> I 13 I 40 1 10 40 I 10 I .. I .. I 14 1856 1828 1857 1839 1855 1839 1855 1849 1853 1867 1849 1864 X, fte. mmXD STATES. LIGHTHOUSES^ HEW JXB8ET, fto. 161 .a . i 15 1809 1866 10 1826 1865 20 1796 1860 20 I 1857 22 I 1826 1858 1"! M21 1823 1854 1828 1840 I 16 10 10 1762 1867 12 1856 \l 1866 U 1856 16 1828 1857 15 1839 1855 13 1839 1855 10 1849 1863 .. 11867 10 1 1849 1 1854 Name aaoA Charaoter of Light Lat.N. Long. W. Oeaeription, *c. 4 II P '% «^ n HEW JEBSKT. BABNEOAT SHOALS One rev. br. It, 10 aeos. ABSEOOM One fixed bright light CAPE MAY LT. VE8. Two fixed bright Its. CAPE MAY One fixed and flash, br. light, li min. CAPE HENLOPEN Two fixed bright lights DELAWARE BAY AND BIYEB Bbbaxwateb One fixed & flash. It. BHANDTWINE ShOAL One fixed bright It Maurice River Eod Island One fixed bright It. Upper MiDP ^hoal, or CuosB ■ . uQC, Lt. Ybssei. M ■■>» RnrsB . fixed bright It GoHANzsr One fixed 'ht It Bombay Hook One fixed bright It RXBDT IsLAm) One fixed bright It Chbistiana Rivbb . One fixed bright It FortMi£Sn vntoiiinA. FENWICK ISLAND One fixed and liash. It ASSATEAQUE ID. One fixed bright light Hoo IstAMD One fixed bright light 39 45-8 74 6-7 39 21. 74 a5-6 38 53-5 74 39.5 1 38 55.8 74 57.8 38 46.6 75 5-4 38 47.9 75 6.1 38 75 1 .. 59- 7-3 ... 1 39 75 10.5 8.6 39 75 ro.3 »3-7 39 75 ao.3 ai.7 39 ai.8 75 30-9 39 80. 75 34-4 39 43-3 75 314 I.. • ••• 38 il- ls 4-1 37 75 54-6 ai.7 37 a3-.T 42.2 Red and white tower, 169 feet | lb Ugh ; S. side of Inlet 166 I 22 I 1831 1868 Tower, 150 feet high, on S. side I la | 167 | 22 1 1856 oflnlet In 12 fathoms, on Five-Fathom Bank, 16 miles from 0. May. . N. side Delaware Bay. (A tower. Id 150 ft. high, with la rev. br. It. 1 m., is to replace the present) S. side Delaware Bay. Lower It I la f mile N.W. of Higher | 4a 46 10 Fl. ii every 45 sees. Fog bell Iron screw pile tower. Fog beU Fixedbr. It., S. W. of Haystack Id, N. Bide of Bay ..,,,»,.. One fixed br. It., "W. side of main Ship Channel. Fog bell and horn 4d.| 3a I 6a I 6a 40 . 84 1 14 180 I 20 33 10 47 110 46 1 13 46 I 10 45 1 11 39 1 9 S. side of Buy W. side of Creek, N. side of Bay N.W.end S. Point Fog bell , At Wilmington, N. side 1 Fixed br. It., on Pier. Fog bell 6a I 5a I 4a I 4a I I ^'' I |6a| 30 1 9 46 1 11 46 111 55 1 12 48 j 11 28| 7 1839 1865 1823 1858 1792 1865 1840 1866 1860 1867 1849 1837 1866 1846 1854 1831 1855 1838 1856 1831 1855 1839 1866 1835 1855 I 1849 White brick tower, fixed It.with I 3d | 86 | 15 | 1858 fiash every 2 min. | Between Chesapeake and Dola- [ 3a ware Bays, 2 m. from 8.W. Pt W. Pbint 4a I 80 114 60 1833 1856 13 I 18>i2 1866 162 ITNITED STATES. LIGHTHOUSES. VntGINTA, ftff. Name and Character of Light. Lnt. N. Long. W. Dcaeription, fto. S " CHESAPEAKE BAY CAPE CHABLE8 One rev. br. It., 1 m. CAPE HENRY One fixed br. light HAMKrON BOADS WUXOTTOHBT SPIt Lt. Vksbkl Twofizedbr.lto. OLD PT. COMFORT Two fixed br. Its. Okakbt IsLAin) Shoal One fixed bright It 37 7-8 75 5«.8 56 55-5 76 0.8 N.E. of Smith Id., N. entrnnce. lb | 69 (A new tow«r, 160 ft. high, building.) S. side of entrance I 2a I 129 14 I 1827 1U8 17 I 1791 1857 S, of entrance to Hampton Roads One on N. side of entrance to James' River; the other on S.W. Point W. aide of entrance to Elizabeth River, near Norfolk. Fog bell and horn 48 36 11 1847 1867 4a I 48 I 11 I 1802 6a 21 6 1866 6a 62 I 12 I 1820 1869 Naval Hospital I... * • • JAMES RIYEB "White Shoal I... t • • Point of Shoals I... t • t Deep Water Shoals |... • • • Jordan's Point |... • •• Ohikhtstomi Inlbt One fixed bright It 1l 15-5 3- Back Rivb& One rev. br. It., f m ?2 5- 21. I Fixed bright Ught, on the ^VhaTf | 6a | , . | 6 | 1867 I Fixed br. It, below Sandy Point | 6a | 27 | 9 1 1864 I Fixed bright Ught, on the Shoal | 6a | 27 | | 1864 I Fixed bright light, on the Shoal | Ga | 27 | 9 | 1854 I Fixed bright Ught | 6a | 36 1 10 | 1864 W. sideofenitrance I 4a | 36 | 10 | 1869 IS. side of entrance I 4b I 36 I 10 I 1829 I : I I I I 18" York Spit Lt Vessel | | Fixed br. It, in 4 fins., off Spit |«| 40 | 9 | 1865 Nbw Point Comfort One fixed bright It. WoLFTBAF Shoals Lt. Yf.sbel Two fixed br. Its. . Stingray Point One fixed bright It Windmill Pt. Lt.Vbs. One fixed bright It Watts Island One fixed & flash It 37 18. 76 17. 1 37 33-6 ^6 14.7 37 46 ? 75 53-8 N. side of MobjackBay I 4a I 60 I 13 I 1804 1866 E. side of Shoal, between York and Rappahannock Rivers . . 30 I .n I 1821 38 *" 1864 S. side of Rappahannock River I 6a | 36 | 7 | 1869 S.E. part of Shoal, N. side of I • I 84 I 10 I 1834 Rappahannock River | | | | 1864 S. end ; £. entrance to Tangier I fid I 46 I 12 I 1833 Sound 1867 HABYLAim. Jan B Island Lt. Yes. I ,...,• One fixed bright It. | j^w^^T^jfvtt.i' -Silts -tf -:;«3-:*--'i'-i Off end of Bar, Tangier Sound. • i • i 30 1 10 { 1863 USITED fTAHiB. UaHTHOtrSES. Ki^taOtD. 163 VtxBM and OharMter of Ugbt Ut.N. LoDf . W. DMori|^tloil» ft*. S ^ 1 a CHESAPEAKE BAY AND BIVEB8 Smith Ft. Lxoht Vbs. Two fixed bright Its. Foa Ponrr One fixed bright It. Glat Iblawd O^efl^ed blight It. Lookout Poixt One fi side of entrance •••'«.• ••••• OntbeFort. FogbeU |8a| 87 1 10 1 1854 39 17-4 76 15.7 33 I 10 I 1824 42 11 1866 N side of Bfiltimore Harbour .. I 4a I 36 1 10 1 1831 I I I I 1865 Off QmutmifiK Biver.. Fog bell 1 4a | .85 1 10 1 1825 39 26.9 I N. side of entrance to Elk and I 4a I 65 1 12 j 1833 76 0.2 1 Susquehanna Bivers | | | 1 1855 39 29.6 I On the Battery | 6a | 36 1 10 1 1853 39 32.4 1 Concord Point, entrimce of Sns- I 6a I 40 1 10 I 1825 76 4.8) quehanna Biver | | | 1 1857 38 7.6 I E. side, about 14 miles N.W. of I 5a I 85 t 10 | 1836 76 32.5 I Mouth I I I 11856 '^ 164 UVXTBD STATES. UOHTHOUSES. MABTLAKD,fte. Kama aad Chanettr of light. Lat. M. Long. W. Deieiiptioiif *o. I* 5^ 5 . FOTOMAO BIYEB Blakibtokb Island I 38 ti.3 j Enteanoe of Clement Bay , One fixed br. light | 76 43. [ Lower Oedar Ft Lt. Vessel One fixed br^ It Between Cedar and Tates Points t Upper Cedar Ft Lt I I 0£F tiie Foint, opposite Tobacco vessel I I ' Biror One fixed br. It. ] | Fort Washington | ...... | Fixed bright light, on the Wharf j JoMu FoiMT I 38 47.5 I Kear Alexandria One fixed br. light | 77 3.2 | Bowler Bock Lt Vessel | | Fixed bright light i HOBTH CABOLIHA. BODY'S ISLAND I 35 47.3 One rev. br. It, 1| min. | 75 31.3 li oiile S. of new Inlet > CAFE HATTERAS One flash, br. It, 16 s., and one fixed br. It FAMLICO SOUND OCRACOEE ID. One fixed bright It 35 15a 75 30-5 35 <-5 75 58.5 Flash, light, 2 milcB N. of high water; fixed light, 600 yards fromPoint .....' W. end. Royal Shoal Lj;. Vis. | | One fixed br. It, on S.W. Fbint | BoTAL Shoal | | Fixed and flash. It, on N. W. Ft | Hauboub Io. Lt. Vxs. Br. It on Bar, between Famlico and Core Sos Bbamt Id. Shoal Lt.V. | | Br. light, S. part of Famlico Sd. | Nkusi R. Lt. Vessel | | Bright light, off Marsh Foint . . | Pamlico PoiKT I 35 19.4 t 8. side of Famlico River I One fixed bright It | 76 31.3 | | LoNO Shoal Lt. Vis. | | Fixed br. lt,on E. Point B«]l,&o. | I Pile lighthonse, betwoAn Pamlico and Croatan Sounds. Foghorn Between Pamlico and Albemarle Soundi Fog bell and horn.. I White Pile lighthouse, on end of Shoal, W. side of Pasquotank R., Albemarle Sound RoANAKi RrvBB Lt. Vk8. I I Fixed bright It., near entrance . . j Roanoke Mabrkbs One fixed bright It. RoANOKW Id. Lt. Vbk. One fixed bri^^ht It Wade Point Oue fixed bright light CAl'E LOOKOUT Uiio fixed briRht litrht 34 37.3 I Red tower, 00 feet high, near the 76 10.1 I ond of Cape 4a 46 11 • 1 22 1 81 • 28 ,.. 6a t .. Ml 6a 1 36 |10| • 1 .. 1 01 3b 1 90 |i<| lo 160 8a 26 20 6 4a 76 16 • 1 43 ini 4d| 88 111 • 1 84 10 1 • 1 46 111 • 1 38 11 1 6a 37 11 •1 46 1 111 4a 38 11 • 81 10 6a 1 81 1 10 1 0| 41| 11 1 1.' I T.66 22 1 1861 1866 1826 1861 1866 1867 1866 1885 1867 1708 1867 1828 1864 1826 1867 1836 1861 1828 1828 1860 1864 1826 1867 1886 1864 1866 1836 1812 I ioov tWniD STATES. UGHTHOUSES. V- * S. OUEtOLDIA, ie» Hum Md Chanetar of XJglit. lAt.N. Long. W. DMMptiaa, fte. la BOOUE BANKS Two fixed bright Its. Fbtikopah SboauLt.V. Two fixed bright lights CAPE PEAK One fixed bright light FEDERAL POINT One fixed bright light CAPE FEAB BIYEB Oak Island Two fixed bright Its. Prics's Cbxix Two fixed bright Its. HOBSE-SHOELT.y. One fixed bright It Campbell's, or Big. Id. One fixed bright It. Orton's Point One fixed bright It Upper Jetty Range Two fixed bright Its. 3441.7 76 40. 33 35. 77 50. 33 5«-3 77 59-8 33 S*» 77 54-9 33 S«i 77 59* 33 5<'3 77 55-4 34 <-9 77 $6. Beanfort Harbonr, near Fort 4a Macon. In one, N.W. i W., 6a and S.B. i E., imile apart . . In 10 fi»<3ionu, 1 mile firom Outer I • Shoal I White tower, 92 feet high, on 8a Bald Head, B. side of Cape Fear River, 4 a. firom Cape . . K. side of Tnlet, N. of entrance I 4a of Cape Fear River 8m.below\l... N.E. end, 6. side of entronee to Savannah River ; beacon It. on Pt. of Tybee Id., J mile E. of " Ught 44 2a I 108 4a 62 80 (2.8 3> 5- 81 3.6 mainligii Fixed bright Ught. N. of Id. | • Bell ana horn 40 On a Enoll, E. end I Sa I 25 Fixed red It., opp. Cockspor Id. I 6a I 85 On E. end, in Savannah River. | 6a | 26 .?og bell 12 I 1889 1865 16 I 1793 12 1866 10 I 1848 1867 9 I 1840 I 1866 9 I 1849 I 1856 9 I 1843 1866 j I Oa J light, in Savannah city . . . . | . . | 77 | 9 | 1858 31 ai-i 81 24. Tower, striped rod and wh. ; flash oveiy 40 sees. 8. end of Id. ; N. side of Doboy Sound. Fixed light in front of former 4d| 74 6a 50 14 11 1820 1854 1858 Two fixed bright lights | 81 ao.3 1; 18. a I Near N. end 6a 25 16 ST. SIMON ISLAND One fixed bright light LITTLE CUMBER- LAND ISLAND One fixed bright It. FLORIDA. AMELIA ISLAND 1. One rev. br. It.^ !( m,, and 1 fixed bright It. 2. Two fixed bright Its. f WW j j ST. JOHN'S RIVER One fixed bri({ht light Ji 38 81 3»-5 30 539 81 31.4 30 394 81 30.9 S. end, on N. side of St. Simon's I 3a I 80 Sound I . S. side of entrance to St. Andrew Sound, and Santilla River . . 1. Rev. It., with fixed It. in firont of it, on N. end, and S. side of entrance to St. Mary's River. 2. Two fixed Its. on N. side of Id., loading into Femandina Harbour 3a I 70 I 1822 " I 1866 14 I 1811 I 1856 14 I 1838 1866 3b 6a 104 60 36 17 6 12 9 1838 1866 1868 ■,!;■( i«i-':»i 'i 30 SI. 7 I 8. side of entrance I 3a I 75 I 14 I 1820 81 37.5 I I I I I 1369 Dame's Point Lt. Vessel t | Small It. off Point, St. John's R. I a | 6 I 1867 TTHITED 8TATS3. UQHTHOUSES. FLOBIBA. 167 Name ud Chanoter of Light. Lat. N. Long. W. Deaoriptlon, Sco. 5^. .3 . « s P ST. AUGUSTINE Oae fixed and flash It. OAPB CANAVERAL One rev. br. It., 1 miu. JUPITEE INLET One fixed & flash, br. It. OAPB FLORIDA One fixed bright light CARTSFORT One rev. br. It., i min. DRY BANK One fixed bright light SAND KEY One fixed and flash. It. KEY WEST S.W. Point of Island One fixed bright It. N.W. Passage One fixed bright It. TRY TORTUGAS LOGGERHEAD KEY One fixed bright It. GARDEN, or BUSH KEY One fixed bright It. EOKONT One fixed bright It. CEDAR KEYS One lixed and flush. It. St. Mark's Harbour One fixed bright light DOG ISLAND One rev. br. It., I min. CAPE ST. GEORGE One fixed bright light CAPE ST. BLA8 One rev. br. It., U ^• PENSACOLA One rev. br. It, 1 min. 29 50.8 81 19.2 28 27. j 80 33. I I 26 55-4 I I 80 5.1 I I 25 41- I 80 3. I 25 13-3 I 80 6.2 24 37-6 81 6.7 24 26.5 81 5i» N. end of Anastasia Id., S. en- 4d I 68 | 14 trance to St. Augustine. Flash every 1^ min White tovrer, 65 feet high, on N.E. part Tower, 10 feet high. Fixed It., I Id with flash every i min | White tower, 96 feet high, on S. I 2a Point of Key Bisca^iie | Dark tower, 112 feet high, on I lb the Reef I ed pile It. ho., 149 ft. high, near Cofi&n Patches and Sombrero Key Flash every 2 min. Dark tower, 121 ft. high, 7i miles S.W. of Key West Lt la I 65 I 146 I 100 I 106 I 144 14 I 18 I 18 18 18 Id I 110 I 18 J4 33. I White tower, 60 feet high .... I 3a I 60 I 13 81 49-3 I III 24 37.1 I On iron screw Piles, in 6 feet 81 55» I Round tower, 150 feet high, on centre of W. Key H 37-3 82 55« 27 82 37-3 53-7 On Jofirrson Fort I »7 3«- ! 82 4J.7 '9 3 7 83 4" 30 44 84 10.6 J9 46. 84 34-7 29 %(>.i 84 58 6 39 41.7 85 H-6 to 19. 87 17.4 Entrance of Tampa Bay, en the Koy Flash every min (Jn E. Mound of Seahorse Koy E. side of ontrance , White tower, 44 ft. high, on E. sidf of Middle entrance to St. George's Sound White, ♦ower, 70 feet high, on the Cape Whito tower, 60 feet high, 2 miles from S. Point of Cupe . . White tower, 160 K nigh, on 8. side of antranoa to Hay^ nea; Baraacua 4a I 40 I 12 la I 152 I 20 I 4a I 70 I 14 4a I 46 I 12 4d I 75 I 16 4a I 78 I 14 4b I 48 j 13 3a I 77 16 8b I 96 I 16 lb I 210 I 21 I I 1823 18d4 1847' 1860 1825 1856 1852 1867 1857 1826 1853 1825 1868 1838 1854 186 i 1825 1858 1848 1867 1864 1829 1866 1838 1866 1847 1867 1847 1868 1824 xovo 168 UVITED gTATES. LIGHTHOUSES. ALABAMA, fte. Name and Charaeter of Ught. Lat.N. Long. W. Deiorlption, *o. ■9^ 1 P % i AT.AWAMA . SAND ISLAND 1. One Sxed br. light 2. One red and br. fixed Hght MOBILE BAY MOBILE POINT 1. One fixed br. It. 2. One fixed & flash. red light, and 1 fixed br. light Choctaw Point One fixed bright It Choctaw Pass 2? "-3 88 a. 30 13.8 88 0.5 30 40.a 88 3. 1. Brick tower, 160 ft. high, 3 m. S.S.W.ofMobilePt. 2. Beacon Its. ; red It. on E. Point, br. It. on 8. Point of Sand Id. Light- house, with red vertical stripe 1. White tower, 63 feet high, on 'JL side of enL-ance to Bay. 2. Beacon lights White tower, 43 feet high, a little 8. of MobUe city la « • 4a 4a I i Two small beacon lights ......I..) 162 20 19 9 1838 1868 1864 68 20 13 9 1821 1868 1864 46 11 1831 1867 16 1 81 1866 XISSISSIPFI AVB ' LOTJISIAH A. MISSISSIPPI 8D. Bound Island | 30 One fixed br. light | 88 £. Pascaoovla R. I 30 One fixed br. light | 88 Ship Island I 30 One fixed br. light | 88 BrLoxi I 30 One fixed br. light | 88 Cat Island I 30 One fixed br. light | 89 Pass Christlak I 30 One fixed br. light | 89 MiaaiLL Shell Bk. | 30 One fixed br. light | 89 9t. Joseph's Island | . . . Fboctoravillb I 19 One fixed br. light | 89 LAKE PONTCHARTRAIN Plbasantona Island One fixed bright It »7-5 34-> 31. 331 ia.9 57- 23-7 53> »3'9 8.7 18.9 14. «4-3 13.9 5»2 39-4 RtOOLITB One fixed bright It. Bon Fouca One fixed bright It. Port Pontchartrain One fixed & flash. It. 89 30 90 3K 1:1 OffFascagoulaBay t 4a AtFasoagoiila,.i,,t«« tit I 6a | OnW.end I 4a | W. entrance to Bay I 4a t W.Foint |4a 6^ miles N.W. of Cat Island I 4a Light I A pile lighthouse, between Cat i 4a | Island and Grand Island . . . . | Building, 1861 | .. | Lake Borgne .....|6a| E. entrance of Lake, near Pearl I 4a I River ) | E. entrance of Lake I 6a | Near Mouth of Bay on Bon I 6a I Fou5- 91 30. 29 20. 91 49. SABINE PASS I 29 43.9 One fixed and flash. It 93 50.3 6 miles N. of New Orleans .... I 6a I Fixed bright light, at entrance . . | 6a Fixed br. It., near Madisonville | 6a S. side, between Maurepas and I 4a Pontchartrain Lakes | White tower, 60 feet high, on I 4a N.end Black tower, 69 ft. high,on Middle I 3a Ghx>undId.,N. side of entrance | S. Point of Id. South Pass, S.W. I 3b side I At junction of S.W. and N.E. I 6a Passes I White tower, 68 ft. high, on W. I 3a side of entrance of ]^Ter . . . . | W. side, Grand Pass I 4a Brown pile lighthouse. Fixed It., j 2d with flash every | min | On the Reef I 4a Pile lighthoTise, 81 feet high, on | 3a S. extremity White tower, 76 feet high, on Brant Point, E. side of River. Flash every 1| min. 33 38 45 60 77 60 70 60 110 49 71 3d I 86 10 I 1811 I 1866 10 I 1838 11 I 1837 10 I 183f I 1867 13 I 184E 186f 15 I 186{ 1866 13 I 1831 I 186f 6 I 185! 16 I 1831 I 186f 13 I 186f 17 I 186( 12 i 186{ 13 I 185£ 16 I 1856 TEXAS. GALVESTON BAT BOLIVAR POINT I 19 12.6 I Red tower, K9 feet high, N. side I 3a I 100 ( 10 I 1862 One fixed bright It | 94 45.7 | of entrance to GalAostonHarb. | | | | 1868 Galveston | | 2 fixed br. Its., in range of Chnn. | 6a | . . | 10 | 1860 Galveston Beacons | | 2 fixed bright Its., in the city .. | 6a | 44 | .. | 1866 Half-moon Shoal | I Botweon Pelican Id. and Dollar I 6a | 36 | 10 | 1864 One fixed bright It j | Point Fogbdl j Bed Fish Bar | | Fixed bright light FogboU .. | 6a | 86 | 10 | 1864 Clopper'H Bar - | . c . . . I Fixed bright light. Fog boll , . i 6a ! 35 | 10 | 1854 170 innXED STATES. MGBtTHOUSES. TEXAS. Mame and Cluntctcr of Light. I-!>t. N. lA>Ug. W. Do8o;^ption, fto. §1 J3^ ■s •3 . :2 a I MATAGORDA BAY MATAGORDA ID. I sS ii. I Tower, with bands, 79 feet high, I 3b I 06 t 16 I 1852 OiiereT.br.lt.,l|m. 1 96 23.9 I onE.Pomt... | | | | 1858 SUuria I I Fixed bright Ught, on N. side . . | 6a | 33 | 6 1 1858 Half-moon Beof | ...... | Fixed br. It., ou Rend. Foghorn | 6a | 40 | 6 | 1&53 Swash I j Fixed br. It, opp. Alligator Hd. I 5a I 38 | 6 | 1858 ARANSAS PASS | 37 53.4 | Brown tower, 55 feet high, on I 4a | 60 | 13 | 185« One fixed bright light | 96 56.5 | Low Island, on N. side | lfil=Lv:08 SANTIAGO Padki Islakb j 36 6. I S. Point, N. side of entrance . . I 5a | 85 1 10 1 1858 C.)ne fixed bright It. | 97 13. | ) ISABEL POINT I 36 4.9 I Flash every min. White tower, I 3d I 82 1 16 I 1859 Onb 2^ed & flash. It. | 97 ii.i | 57 feet high, on the Point. . . . | j | | 1857 !lio 0-ande I I Building, 1861 | .. | .. | .. | .... •.) ■*'K'|; , , . . ., ^ A , '.:•• .V/ ■ .'. ;r i>\ - ■ ^y > )'i''>r:%i^4^'W^ %/4'r<-'-,?v>'i.;.; ,. ". ;.!s ^ : - ^. '■1 ■: -I. ■'.■jUk f: .,.,.. •■ 5>;r.i!;- -V I .** Jii.-i.-\ ^-v?fi 3^'#' '. Zy.'^ ■ i f . • J ■■?-■ j'f-'i ^'?t ! , • • ..-.,.. ..;■,' ■ ;/. r ..t1 1 -.+. !$,' ; s..i; ■ ./ *' ♦■* v.* »f%^,rti ?'* I v> a: lif ^.v 1 )' '■ I-' ii •&«•': I * 1 1 « ^' •V;M.;.il,-- WBSTIVSIES. LIGHTHOUSES. TH|B BAWAlTAg, *o. 171 Kama and Chanwter of light. Lat.N. Long. W. Description, &e. 5^. §1 I .S . ABACX) 45 5>-5 One TOT. br. It., 1 min. 77 10.7 NASSAU HABBOIJB 1 15 5.6 One fixed bright light | 77 22. GREAT ISAAO I 6 3. ' Onexev. br. It, |mm. | ',9 6.5 GUN KAY I 25 34.6 One rev. br. It., 1} m. | 79 18.8 EAT SAL BANK I 23 56. . One fixed bright light | 80 28.5 XAYLOBOS 12222.8 One fixed bright light \ 77 35.8 TUBES ISLAND I 21 31. One fixed and flaah. It. I 71 7.7 (British). White and red tower, 85 feet high, on S.E. Point, or Hole in the Wall (British). Stone tower, 68 took I high, on W. Point of Hog Id. | (British). Bed and white tower, 145 foet high, on Island . . . . (British). Tower, 70 teet high, near S. Point I 160 I 16 I 1848 I 68 1158 I 80 (British). White and red tower, I . . | 96 68 feet high, on N. Elbow Kay | (British). Bod and wUte iron | la | 146 .. I 103 tower, 150 feet high, on Kay | (British). White tower, 60 feet high, 400 yards from N. end. Flash every |miB. ..,* I 10 I 1847 I 16 I 1659 I 12 I 1836 I 14 I 1839 I 16 I 1860 I 15 I 1862 CUBA (Spanish). ST. lAGO DE CUBA One rev. br. It., I m. CBUZ CAPE One fixed bright It Jaova, Xaova, or Ci> BNFUBOOS HaBB. One rev. br. light Batabano I One fixed br. light | ISLE OP PINES One rev. bright light SAN ANTONIO One rev. br. It, 1 m. JU8TIAS Onefixedftfla8h.lt GOBERNADORA One rev. bright light HAVANA One fixed & flaah. It 19 57-5 75 S«-« 19 50.2 77 45-3 22 1.2 80 40.3 22 41.4 82 18, 21 26. 83 6. 21 51.8 85 J-3 E. side of Monro Castle I 4b i 223 | 20 | 1842 BuUding, 1861 I 2a | 106 | 16 | .... Colorado Point, E. of entrance. . 3b I 81 1 14 I 1S61 Lantern, on a Mast I .. | SI] 3 | 1847 I Proposed, 1861, on Cape Pepe . . I 2b | 111 | 16 | . I Boncali Tower, 117 fbet high, on | 2b | 107 | 20 | 1850 I the Cape 22 43.3 I Proposed, 1861, on the Eay .... | 2d | 129 | 16 ] . . .t 84 6.5 I 2J o. «3 »3» >3 93 82 21.1 ¥& Proposed, 1861, on the Point .. I 2b | 111 | 15 | ...» On Iforro Castle, E. entrance. | Id | 144 | 21 | 1847 ITuuth every ^ min Fort Santa Cnu I... • ft 1 FUed bright light 1 "I •I ri 1858 GUANOS One rov. br. It, >3 Im. 81 9- 4a. Proposod, 1861, on the Point . . 3b 1 02 1 ..| • •.• Note.- -The latitude* aiul kmgUudea on the CoMt of Cuh« are uncertain, conaidvrablc amount. probably to a • ■.. / •" " ' / • # m ITEBT nroiES. LIGHTHOUSES. CUBA, fte. Name ud Chaneter of JJght. Lat. N. Long. W. Dewriptlon, fto. II I? ^8 SI CABDENAS BAY One fixed & flash. It One fixed r«j& br.lt BAHIA BE CADIZ One »▼. br. It, 1 m. Angoila One fixed & flaab. It. KAY PAREDONE OBANDE Onefixed& flash. It NUEVITA8 HARB. One rev. bi. o., 1 m. LUCREZIA One rev. bright It CAPE MAYSI , . One fixed bright It. 23 14.4 Flash. It, red flash ev iy ^min., 81 7.5 on Piedras Kay. Fixed red and br. It on Anas Kay .... 33 13. I I^wposed, 1861, iron tower, 169 80 30. I feet high, on the Kay 33 39. I Fkoposed, 1861, on S.E. Kay .. 79 3«- I 4d I 66 I Iff I 1807 I 48 I 9 I 1846 23 39.4 78 9.7 Iron tower, 128 feet hi^h, on N. part. Flash every mm 31 39.6 I Colon tower, 170 feet high, on 77 10.9 I Matemillos Point 21 10. I Building, 1861, on the Point . . 75 38- I 20 16. I Biul7 61 0. 4S-7 (Danish). E. entrance, on Moh- lenfels Point (British). Proposed, 1861, on the Island (British). On the Beach, at Basse Terre (British). 2 fixed br. lights for Mail Steamers, on the Beach at Plymouth (British). Fixed triangularly, upper It. red, for Moil titeamers 175 I 20 |.... * * I ^ I •••• 159 I 20 I 1859 174 I 23 I 1849 112 I 15 I .... 124 I 15 I .... 115 I 15 I 1842 68 i 12 I 1854 40| .. I .... 113 I 9 I 185/' 171 I 20 I 1846 .. I i\ 1853 95 I 12 I 1844 37 I 12 I 1846 ** I ** i **** 62 I 8 I 1843* wx8inn>iB8. LIGHTHOnSES. CASIBBBB 18., «o. 173 Hamt ud Chanoter of Ught latN. Long. W. Dwociption, *e. •id ll ■3 IS GUADALOUPE (French). MouledePort I i6 23.7 i rPoniion imoertain] ...» I .. I ..I 71 One fixed bright It. ,1617' } I .Fd&te&Pitre '| | ]baxiteni,S.oftowii | .. | .. t •> Muronlalet | | Laatem | .. | ..I*. Groner Islet | jj JJJ | One fixed bright Ught .., I .. | .. | .. Fbhtb Tbb&b I 16 lo.c I Tower. 76 feethinrh I 3a 1 108 | 15 1868 xnTB Tbb&b I 16 10.5 I Tower, 76 feet high One filled br. light | 61 4.9 | Dominica MARTINIQUE One fixed rM^t&lbr.U. 8t. Lvcia Three fixed bright Its. 15 18. I (Britiah). laght on Fort Young I .. | .. | .. 61x5. I flagataff. | (French). Bed It. on Polnte de I .. f 62 I 11 I 1850 mgrea, in Fort. Br. light in 1 131 ( 6 | .... Fort Boyal, S.W. part | »4 36.1 61 4. | S. POINT I 13 3.7 I Bed and ^hite striped tower, I .. 1 146 1 18 1 1852 One rev. br. It, 1 m. l59 33-5| 90feethigh OTTATAITA. )ne fixed bright light | 52 14.8 | racks , Cayenne ^ . , \ ^ 5^* I (^^^^h). On Ijofiuitry Bar- | . . | 69 | 8 | 1850 Surinam LiOBT VxRssi. I 6 4. I (Dutch). In 4 &thomB, off Bram | . . j 30 | 7 | 1858 One fixed bright light | 55 9-5] Point berbice harbour lt. vessel One fixed bright light 6 19.3 57 aa-S (British). Near E. Point of en- trance , I .. I 16 I 1850 DEMERARA (British). LiOHT Vkssbl I 6 SS'S \ In 4 ftns., 10 miles N.N.E. i E. I . . | . . ) 12 | 1844 One fixed bright It | 58 1.5 | from River entrance .....<. E. Biui One fixed bright It | 58 11.5 6 49.3 I Redandwhlte^wer, 100ft hiffh, ] .. | 103 | 14 | 1829 ° -- - ' on E. Ei-^lo "'verontranco.. I m UQHTHOTTSES. TIEBBA TIXIOB, fto. NaoM and Chataotar of Light. Lat. N. Long. W. Desoriptlon, fto. 11 (Is .a *^•* TIEBRA FIRME Or Aoco Biy^r Lt Veaael Fnerto CabelV> Taeaoas One fixed bright light BUBN AYBJaS One fixed bright light LlTTLB OUBA9OA ISUUID One fixed bright light Great Ooraooe Island One fixed bright light Bio de la Haoha One fixed teightlight Ltxov, or Navy Bat, One fixed bright light HALF-MOON KAY One fixed bright light Belize Three fixed bright Its. TVKNXFP KaTS Three fixed bright U^ auLF OF mssjco Sisal One fixed bright light Terminos de Lagnna One fixed bri^t light Coatsacoalcos Biver One fixed bright light 09.49' I 10 39. I 68 o. 10 47. 68 34. 13 3.5 .68 ^?.S 11 5*' 68 44. 13 6. 6859. II 33. 7* 59- 9 »3-8 79 53- 17 12.3 87 3»-4 I 17 19.6 i^S 4. '17 j6. ' 87 46. 31 10. 90 3. 18 38.^ 9» 54- 18 13. 94 »7- VEBACBTJZ One rev. bright light Tamploo iJt": 33 IS. 9746. ) Sunk in 1859. Not likely tobe | .. | .. | .. | ...• (Yenemelan). Tto^ppaei, 1861 | . , (Yenesudsn). Brava Point .. I .. (Dutch). Lacre Point, 8. Point I • (Dutch). OnS. dde (• (Dutc^. St. Ann Harbour, on BifFort (New Granada). On the Church (New Granada). N.W. part of I Manzonillo Island | (British). On S.E. Point (British). S. side, on English Kay (British). Fixed triangularly, on Mauger Kay, N.W. Point. . . . (Mexican). On the Castle .... (Mexican). In Indian village . . (Mexican). [Temporanr light is shown while lighthouse is building, 1861.] (Mexican). Fort San Juan de Ulloa (Mexican). Small light on N. Point, for Mail Steamora .... 85 62 V I • • •• 12 I .... 10 I 1850 .. I 1850 6 I 1857 10 I 1852 18 I 1848 3 I 1846 13 I 1846 69 60 88 95 75 95 76 I 60 I 10 I 1852 i 75| .. I 1856 I ..|.. I,.... I 80 I 15 I .... I •.|..|.... pi^ii ;.*;..! At .'Miim^'-k. \ \ H^sitiyfir ^'•v-:'^i^fjMi■:'M''m | ? A' tf|. ; '-ii J4:?'*W fedStiioj*)' IB, fto. AFRICA. LIGHTHOUSES. West Coast. I7u 3 . •« I •••• . • I •••• 9 \ • • •• 12 I .... 10 I 1850 I .. I I860 I 6 I 1857 I 10 I 1852 I 18 I 1848 8 1846 I 13 I 1846 10 I 1852 .. I 1856 • • I ••# • 15 I .... . . I .... Name and Chanoter of Ught. Lrt. N. Long. W. Description, See. It a . ^1 ^ •2 II s Senegal One fixed bright light Oor^e Island One fixed bright light SIERRA LEONE One fixed bright light MONROVIA One fixed bright light CAPE PALMAS One fixed bright light CAPE COAST CASTLE One fixed bright light i6 0.8 I (French). Hede St Louis .... I .. | .. | fi | .... i6 31. I I 14 39.9 I (French). In the Fort | .. | .. | 6|.,.. 17 24/ 8 30. 13 i8-5 (BritishV Whitf! town, 69 feet high, or the ' -o. Gn It. at landi , p . . I 96 I 18 I 1849 fe^^n .. I 240 1 16 I 1855 6 19. I (Liberian). .ed 10 50. I high, on Car ^ -xo 4 22.1 I (Liberian). luwe- 7 44.3 I on the Cape . .«. 5 6.3 I (British). White tower, 46 feet I . . | 192 1 20 | 1847 I 13.9 I high, in Fort William [ high,! .. I 110 I 13 I .... ATLANTIC ISLANDS. BERMUDAS- One rev. br. It., 1 min. 04 51.6 A white iron tower, 106 ft. high, on Gibbs Hill, on S. side. Seen all round, except between S. 48" W., and S. 52° W. ; and also 8. 53° W. to S. 62» W. .. • I 362 I 24 I 1846 CANARY ISLES. t; ' ? Santa Cruz f 28 28.6 | (Spanish). Tenetifib Island ; on | .. | 36 | 5 | 1857 One fixed bright light | 16 14.9 | Mole Head 27 35.2 I Tenerifila Island. Proposed light I .. | .. | .. | .... 16 5.7 I on the Islet, 1860 Grand Canary Island | 28 7.1 I On the Mole, Pahna town...... | .. | «. | .. { 1859 15 24-8 I Anaga ^rand One fixed bright light AZORES, or WEST- * ERN ISLANDS. St. Michabl I 37 44. I (Portuguese). At Santa Clara I .. | .. | .. | ..,, Proposed fixed light | 24 41.2 | Fort. PuntoDelgada •;•:■'>;«?: Wis >» . \ ■ ,' •'-^. s IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) .^ m. 'Mi 1.0 I.I 11.25 ttilSl 115 ut Biii& 12.2 Sf HA ■— £? U£ 12.0 1.4 11.6 ,*?,;, ■#■"*'■ ^ ^ «? /> PholDgraiAic Sciences Corporation 4^ 4^' ^N ^^ ,'•*'• "^ ^ % 4[^ <<^. Q^ U WIST MAIN ITRIBT WIUTM.NY. I4SM (7U)l7a-4S03 f- r "^ » *.» • *, * • f » *>.« ■> ^ -i-vM" 4-,?- iVjax .}^: >-t •^t '!? V m SECTION in. GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE WINDS, TIDES, AND CUR- RENTS; AND ON THE DIFFERENT PASSAGES OVER THE NORTH ATLANTIC OCEAN. 1.— OF THE WINDS. OEHEBAL BEICABKS.— (10 The stndy of the winds is the most important branch of Marine Meteoroloff^. It has ever lieen a fovourite subject for speculation, but man's finite powers and umited views have hitherto fiuled to ^ve us a complete and satisfactory view, in all respects, of that vast system of aerial circulation by which this fflobe is made fit for an habitation. Within the last ten years, however, the sub- ject has assumed a new form, and more definite results have been arrived at ; so that much that was before difficult to be understood, is now made perfectly demonstrable. Still, however, doubts may be permitted as to whether the data hitherto collected and arranged are of that exact natuia which will allow those certain deductions necessary for a scientific axiom, and therefore, even now, we arp not in a position to assert that thfa circulation of the atmosphere is carried on in all particulars under the systems which are now reoogniced as correct. But as the sailor deals not with speculation, but applies the &cts of nature to his use, the mode in which the whole mass of the atmospnere is interchanged and mingled is im^rtant to him only as a field of observation which he enjoys with the rest of mankind. The present object being practical utility, the theory of the winds will be very briefly alluded to here, leaving the reader to those numerous and voluminous works now extant on these subjects for a more ftill elucidation of them. (2.) As a broad and primary principle, it may be affirmed, the complete cinmlation of the atmosphen.' by which any particle of the air has in its course, passed over every portion of the earth's surfooe, is demonstrated by the fact tbat the air is composed of precisely the same elementary constituents in every part of the wcrld. This fact was expenmenially demonstrated by the French Academy of Sciences many yean since, who had bottles of air most careftilly collected in all regions and submitted to the most rigid analysis, which foiled to discover any difference whatever. It is mani- fest in a natural sense also, by its Eupporting animal and vegetable life universally in the Bome manner. If it were not so, tne air over a special region would, in the course of ages, have become sul^ect to the emanations and mfluences of the earth it covered. The Mune remark holds good also with the water of the ocean, equally universal in its definite chuacteristics, and firom the same cause, as. will be shown hereafter. Tho manner in which this is carried on is still involved in some mystery. (3.^ In the year 1686, Edmund Halley* proposed the Theory of the Trade Winds and Monsoons, which is now generally received as an approximation to the true solution. He afterwarls altered his views, which were revised and extended by George Hadiey in 1730. f The following is a brief summary of them : — • ■ 1 yn * Philosophical 1 aMctions, xvi. 163. t Ibid., 1735, p. M. 176 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON WINDS, ETC. (4.) The 8un is con8tantIy vertical over some part of the earth between ^e tropics, and uus acne is consequently maintained at a much higher temperature than the Kwions nearer the Poles, this heat on the earth's sur&ce is imparted to the air, which is, therefore, displaced and buoyed up firom the surface, and the colder, and therefore heavier, air from without glides in, on both sides, along the sur&ce; while the displaced air, thus raised above its due level, and unsustamed by any lateral pressure, flows over, as it were, and forms an upjper current in the contrary direction, or towards the Poles ; which being cooled in its course, and also sucked down to supply the deficiency in the extoi-tropical regions, keeps up thus a continual dreulation. Since the Equator revolves much more rapidly than the portions nearer the Poles, it follows, that a mass of air flowing towards the Equator must be deficient in rotary velocity, and, therefbre, unable to keep up with the speed of the new surftice over which it is brought. Hence these currents from the Nortii and South must, as they glide along the surface, at the same time lag or laaut back, and c/rogr upon it in the direction oppotUe to the earth's rotation, •'.«., from East to West. Ilius, from simple •northerly and southerly winds, they become permanent north-eatterly and amdh- eafterkf teinth. The lengths of the diurnal circles increase very slowly near to the Equator, and for several de^prees on each side of it hardly change at all. It follows from this, then, that as these winds approach the Equator, their easterly tendency must diminish ; and at the Equator must be expected to lose tlieir easterly character altogetJier. And not only this; but the northern and southern currents, here meeting and opposing, will mutually destroy each other, leaving only the actions of local causes, which may lie in one region in one way, and in another a diflbrent one. The result of this, then, is the production of two great tropical belts of north- easterly and south-easterly winds, while the winds in the equatorial belt which sepa- rates {he two former should be free from any steady prevalence of an easterly character, and should also be oomparativeiy calm. All these ooiisequenoes are agree- able to obsMved &ct, and constitute the system of the regular treide windt. (^6.) The constant friction of the earth upon the air near the Equator, it may be objecterl, would, by degrees, destroy the rotetion of the whole mass \ but it is com- Psnsated in this manner. The heated equatorial air, ritipg and flowing off toward the oles, carries with it a rotetory velocity much greater tlum .hat of me surface over whidi it passes in its northward and southward progress. Hp"' it will gain more and more on the sur&ce of the earth, and assume more and x . wctterly relative direction ; and when, at length, it necessarily returns to the ft v in its circulation, which it must do, more or less, in all ita course, it will act on it by its friction as a powerftd S.W. wind in the northern hemisphere, and a N.W. wind in the southrm, and thus restore the e<|uilibrium. This is the origibi of the S.W. and westerly gales ■0 prevalent in our latitudes, and of the almost universal westerly winds in the North Atlantio.* ■ > ' ■ ■ ■ ■■ '■ --'■ ■ ■ .1 . — — .— ...-i.l....,,.,,. ■ .1— — . I. ■■■ .1 II. I -I , .Ml 11 I * Sir John Htrtehel gives the following note in his work, upon the origin of storms, which, as it is most feasible, we give here ; it must be observed, that it was written before the views and obBervationJ of Beid, Bedfield, and others, had been publiBhed. We shall advert to it hereafter. " It seems worth inquiry, whether humoanes in tropical climates may not arise from Grtions of the upper ourronts prematurely diverted downwards before their relative velocity 8 been sufficiently reduced by friction on, and gradually mixing with, the lower strata ; and so dashing upon the earth with that tremendous velocity, which gives thran their de- structive chamctor, and of which hardly any rational account has yet beau given. Tboir course, generally speaking, is in opposition to the regular trade wind, us it ought to be, in conformity with this idea — ( Young' a Letturet, i. 704.^ But it by no moans follows, that tlvis must always be the case. In general, a rapid transier, either way, in latitude, of any miiss of air which local or temporary causes might carry »hov$ tht mnudiate reaeh of tk« frietUm of the eartk'i turfiee, would give a fearful exaggeration to its velocity. Wherever such a mass would strike the earth, a hurricane might aiise ; and should two such masses encounter in mid-air, a tornado of any degree of intensity on record might easily result from their combination." — Attronomy, p. 132. Tlie more recent views of Sir John Hcrschol will be found in their place hereafter. GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON WINDS, ETCf. 1^ (6.) Now it will be seen, thiat by this theory the trade windg mMt near the-Eqtiator, leaving a belt of cahns of Tarious breadth between them. According to Commander Maury, the winds here being neutralized rise up and cross eadi other i tiie wind bi:ougat by the S.E. trade pasnng over N.E. trade as a S.W. upper oorrent} and, haying passed the c^dms or variables of the Tropic of Cancer, it appears.as the ordi- nary anti-trade or S.W, prevalent wind. The chief physical &ct upon whidi this theory is bseed is the red dust, found i^uently to tul on vessels near the Cape VerdoB, and in the Mediterranean, where it is called scirocco dust (as ooining fix>ni the South). This red dust was found by Ehrenberg to consist of microscopic infusoria and organisations, whose habitat, as far as teas knotvn, is in South America. But this arp^nment may be demurred to from the limited extent this dust fidls upon compared with the vast area firom which it is said to be derived. (7.^ There is another grtat di£BiCulty in the reception of this theory, in the great breadth, in some parts, of that intervening band of calms that these supposed currents are to cross each other. In the eastern part of the Atlantic, it is firiun 300 to. 600 miles in breadth. If this great interchange of directions were continually going On with such a vast amount of atmosphere, we may safely conclude that the lower strata would not be chamcterized by the calms or " doldrums" they are known by. (8.) The more reasonable aignment, in the present state of our knowledge, is, that the trade winds reaching this belt of calm, by Ceut the greater part of this mdi-aught will rise on its own side, and revert towards the vole of its own denomination m a precisely opposite direction to that by which it arnved. In the parts of the equatorial regions, where this intervening oidm belt is much narrower, as on the East coast of America, this crossing may take place, and the upper currents pass on towards the poles of contrary names. At all events, this view of tiie oiroulation of the atmosphere will satisfy our first proposition, — ^that every particle of air has been so commingled with the rest that it produces the universality of character which is demonstrated to exist. These theories are practically tmimportant to the stulor in his profession, but are highly interesting* to him as a stibjept of observation and reflection. It has been held by many that the solar heat, cimibi'^'^ with the revolution of the eai'th, is sufficient to account for the geneit bably be much moi-e like thusc in open ocean could the latter be registered by similar means. The diagprams, ns we give them, or the figures in Maury's Chart, must be studied should any ^ater exactness in the relative duration of any wind be required than can be acquired at a cursory glance ; and in the former case, as was before explained, the length of the award applied to the scale at the bottom of the plate will give the exact ratio per cent, of the wind represented by that arrow. n; , ;, ^ , /: One general remark only need be ^iven : it is, that about the Azores the gfreatest irregularity in the direction of the wind appears to occur in these latitudes ; during the summer months the wind is frequently from northern quarters, driving before it the cooler water from the polar regions, and thus abnormally reducing the tempera- ture. Besides this, there appears to be a conflict between this southern and western tendency, and the Trade which is established to the west of them. (75.) AMEBIOA.— OuLF AND KiVEft OP St. Lawrence.— Rcar-Admiral Bayfield states that, during the navigable season, the prevailing winds are either directly up or directly down the estuary of ^f. Lawrence, following the course of the chains of high lands on cither side of the great valley of the river. Thus a S.E. wind in the gulf becomes E.S.E. between Anticosti and the South coast, E.N.E. above Point de Monts, and N.E. above Qreen Island. The westerly winds do not appear to be so much guided in direction by the high lands, excepting along the South coast, where a W.S.W. wind at the Isle — ' ' ' ■ — ^^^ N.W., on running down along the Pic has been ".x to become West, W.N.W^. high and curved South coast, until it became a N.N.W. wind at Cape Oasp^. These THE ANTI-TRADES, OR PASSAGE-WINDS. 213 winds frequently blow strong for three or fonr days in succesmon : the westerly winds being almost always accompanied with fine, dry, clear, and sunny weather; the easterly winds as frequently with the contrary, cold, wet, and foggy. In the spring ths easterly winds prevail most, frequently blowing for several weeks in succession. As the summer advances, the westeny winds become more frequent, and the B.Yt. wind ma^ be said to be the prevailing wind in simmier, in all parts of the river aajd ^;ulf. Light South winds take place occasionally ; but North winds are not common in summer, although they sometimes occur. Steady North winds do not blow fre- quently before September, excepting for a few hours at a time, when they generally succeed easterly winds which have died away to a calm, forming the commencement of strrnig winds, and usually veering to the S.W. The N.W. wind is dry, with bright clear sky, flying clouds, and showers. After the autumnal equinox, winds to the northward or West become more common, and are then often strong, steady winds of considerable duration. In the months of October and November the N.W. wind fre- quently blows with great violence, in heavy squaUs, with passing showers of hail and snow, anu attended with sharp frost. ^a"-'^j Thundernstorms are not uncommon in July and August ; they seldom last above an hour or two, but the wind proceeding from them is, in general, violent and sudden, particularly when near the mountainous part of the coast ; sail should, therefore, be fully and quickly reduced on their approach. Strong winds seldom veer from one quarter of the compass to another directly or nearly contrary ; in general, they die away by deg^es to a calm, and are succeeded by a wind in tbe opposite direction. It is not here meant, that they ma}' not veer to the amount of several points. N.W. winds seldom veer round by North and N.E. to East and S.E. ; but they do frequently, by degiees, to the S.W., after becoming mo- derate. S.W. winds seldom veer by tne N.W. and North to the eastward, but some- times by the South to S.E. and East. Easterly winds generally decrease to a calm, succeeded by a wind from the opposite direction. In the fine weather westerly winds of summer a fresh top-^llant breeze will often decrease to a light breeze or calm at night, and spring up agam from the same quarter on the following morning : under these circumstances only may a land-breeze off the North coast be called for. The same has been observed of the South coast also, but not so decidedly, nor extending so far off shore. Admiral Bayfield adds, " I have occasionally carried the North land-wind nearly over to the South coast just before daylight ; but have never observed the South land-wind extend more than 6 or 6 miles off, and that very rarely. Under the same circumstances, that is, with a fine weather westerly wind going down with the sun, a S.W. land-breeze will frequently be found blowing off the North coast of Anticosti at night and during the early part of the morning. If, however, the weather be not settled fair, and the wind does not fall with the B\m, it will usually prove worse than useless to run a vessel close in shore at night in the hope of a breeze off the land. Such is tbe usual course of the winds in common reasons, in which a very heavy gale of wind will probably not be experienced from May to October, although close-reefed top-sail breezes are usually common enough. Occasionally, however, there are years, the character of which is decidedly stormy. Qales of wind, of considerable strength, then follow each other in quick succession, and from opposite quarters. NovA-ScoTiA. — The prevailing winds on all the coast are from W.S.W. to S.W., nearly as steady as trade toindn ; excepting that, during the summer months, they are rather more southerly, accompanied with but little intermission by fog, which requires a north-westerly vnnd to disperse it. It is, therefore, recommended not to leave an anchorage wivhout making arrangements for reaching another before dark, or the appearance of a fog coming on, which, with a S.W. wind, is so sudden, that you aro unawares enveloped in it ; nor to keep at sea during the night, if it can be avoided. Whenever the wind blows directly off the land the fog is soon dispersed. Rnnnor ana summer uSuno fog- ur rum almost Saht-e Inland. — In tho ^^ „ „ always accompany all winds from the sea, from E.N.E., round south, to W.S.W.^ In winter, the rain h fi'cqurntly replaced by snow. During the autumnal and winter 214 OBSERVATIONS ON WINDS. months, 'winds frdm between North and West become more freqnentt wd, being oflF the land, are alwajra accompanied with clear weather. Strong gales of wind do not often occur in May, June, or Julv ; but, alter the middle of August, they are often of great strength, and it becomes the more neoessary to attend careftilly to the indications of the barometer. Strong winds ttom East, round South, to W.S.W., ai-e always accompanied by a foiling barometer. When, therefore, these winds begin to abate, and the barometer at the same time ceases to fall, a change of wind, more or less sudden, to the op^site direction may be expected, witJi a rising barometer and fine weather ; and if it be winter, with intense frost, coating the vessel, her sails and rigging, with ice. Again, a high barometer, stationary or beginning to tall, indicates that a S.E. or S. W. wind, with accompanying rain and fog, is not far distant ; and if, at the same time, there be a bank of clouds rising above the north-western horizon, the indication is certain. South Cakolina, Sec. — About this coast, if the wind blows hard from the N.E. Saarter, without rain, it commonly continues so for some time, perha^ three or four ays ; but, if such winds are attended with rain, they generally shift to the East, E.^.E., and S.E. S.E. winds blow right in on the coast ; but they seldom blow dry, or continue long: in six, eight, or ten hours after their commencement, the sky begins te look dirty, which soon produces rain. When it comes to blow and rain very hard, you may be sure the wind will fly round to the N.W. quarter, and blow hard for twenty or thirty hours, with a clear sky, N.W. winds are always attended with clear weather ; they sometimes blow very hard, but seldom for longer than thirty hours. The most lasting winds are those which blow from, the S.S.W. and W.N.W., and from the North to the E.N.E. The weather is most settled when the wind is any of these quarters. In summer time, thunder-gusts are very common on this coast ; they always come from the N.W. quarter, and are sometimes so heavy that no canvas can withstand their fiiry : they come on so suddenly, that the greatest precaution is necessary to guard against tne effects of their violence. .^^^r HUBBICANES. (76.) Among the most extraordinary phenomena of natm'e, may be classed those tremendous meteors, the hurricanes and tornadoes of the tropical regions. Until within a recent period they were very imperfectly understood, and were only re- garded as terrible convulsions of the aerial system, when all order seemed to be broken up. But these, like many other apparent anomalies in nature, have been found reducible to system ; and their various seemingly capricious motions all sul^cct to general rules, which, in this case, have been aptly denominated " The Law qf Storms." The discussions on the progressive nature of liunicanes appear to have originated in a paper, entitled, " Remorks on the Prevailing Storms of the Atlantic Coast of the North American States, by William C. Redfield, of the City of New York j" which has proved to be a vciy important and valuable addition to nautical literature. The Bubii?c't, adopting the «• Redfield Theory," has since been amplified and illustrated by thelite Lieutenant-Colonel (afterwards Sir) William Rcid, R.E. and C.B., Governor of the Bermudas and of Malte, in his beautiful volume, bearing for the title, " An Attempt to Develop the Law of Storms by means of Facts, aiTanged according to Place and Time, and hence to point out a Cause for the Vaiiablc Winds, with a view HURRICANES. 815 to pittctioal use in NaTiffation," &o. As connected with this subject, the names of Redfield and Reid wul be imperishable.* We say that the discussion appears to have originated in the before-mentioned works s but, without deciding on the claims of {niority, it must be mentioned that, besides the names of Reid and Redfield, those of Mr. Piddington, at Calcutta ; Dr. Thom, in the Indian Ocean ; of Mr. Espy, in America, and of Professor Dovi, at BerUn, must be enrolled with them, as the primaiy instigators of the inquiry into the origin and nature of storms. There are various names applied to these storms : Revolving storms, Hurricanes, Tornadoes (Spanish and expressive " turned"), Cyclone, Typhoons, &c. ; but all are meant to desmbe the same thing. In the fore^ing remarks on the winds, on pages 178, 179, the general theory of atmospheric circulation is described ; and in (19.) and (20.), page 184, is a reaumS of the whole, wbicb will show the localities in which these phenomena occur. The subject is also illustrated by the plate at the commencement of this Volume. (77.) Although the " Law f Storms" is now ftiUy recognized, yet opinion i" still divided as to me real character and condition of these remarkable meteors. Tleid, Redfield, and others, contend that they are real vortices — currents of air revolviiuf round a progressing centre ; others, as Thom, contend that the wind blows in spirals around this centre ; Espy, that the wind blows toward the centre : others, again, con- sider that vertical motion of the air will explain many of the phenomena. It is also argued, that, instead of a circle, the form of the storm is elongated, ellipsoidal, or even straight, moving broadside onwards. Jinman considers that, as the air is blowing away firom one area another cuirent necessarily blows towards and into that area, caufflug the peculiar features of these hurricanes. It would be out of place, and for too discursive for this Work, to discuss these various propositions. They may readily be found in the numerous works extant. One remark may suffice. Is it not possible, na\, probable, that each of these theories may be correct as to individual cyclones, wmcn may be (and are) of such varied character as not to be reducible in all cases to a fixed rule P However, it is certain that in many examples the true revolving storm is the proper appellation, and the rules now applied will give the means of avoiding their fury. In our description of the Winds, &c., page 184, we gave the theory that has been universally received as the cause of the Trade-winds and their attendant phenomena in the general atmospheric currents. (78.) From all the investigations on the subject, the following conclusions have been arrived at. The hurricane, or rotary storm, commences within the tropics, on either side of the E'xuator ; those in North latitude, the motion of the revolving circle it from right to Mt, past the North, or against the sun : while the storm progresses to the W.N.W., N.W., North j forming a cycloidal curve in about 30° N. tat., and runs oflftotheN.E. South of the Equator, or in the southern hemisphere, this rule is reversed, the storm revolving from left to right, and passing onwards in a S.W., and finally in a S.E. course. The diameter of these circular vortices varies from 40 to 50 or even 1,000 mileo, probably increasing in size in their onward progress. Their rate of travelling varies from 3 to 60 miles per hour. There are numerous minor peculiarities connected with these Cyclones, which will * " My attention was first directed to tho subject from my having been employed at Bar- badoes in re-establishing the Government buildings blown down in tho hurricane of 1831 ; when, from the violence of the wind, 1,477 persons lost thoir lives in the short space of seven hours. I was induced to search overywlioro for Recounts of pFeviouM storms, in the bopo of looming something of their causes and mode of action." — Rtid, " Law of Stornu," p. 1. This work is illustrated with ton largo charts, besides other engravings, . , , ^ 216 OBSERVATIONS ON WINDS. be gatiiered from the subsequent remarks. But the great point with the mariner is to avoid their fiuy, and, having ascertained their character and his relative position on the meteor, to make the best course for getting away from it. Colonel Sir William Reid's " Law," is simple, and will be best given in his own words. (79.) Colonel Sir W. Reid'a Rule for laying Ships to in Hurricanes. — ^That tack on which a ship should be laid-to in a hurricane Ims hitherto been a problem to be solved, and is one which seamen have long considered important to have explained. In these tempests, when a vessel is lying-to, and the wind veers by the sMp's head, she is in danger of getting stem-way, even when no sail is set ; for in a hurricane the wind's force upon the mairts and yards alone will produce this effest should the wind veer ahead, and it is supposed that vesseb have onen foundered from thistause. When the wind veers aft, as it is called, or by the stem, this danger is avoided, and a ship then comes up to the wind, instead of having to break off from it. If great storms obey fixed laws, and the explanation of them in this Work be the true one, then the rule for laying a ship to follows like the corollary of a problem already solved. In order to define the two sides of a storm, that side will be nailed the ri^ht-hand semicircle which is on the right of a storm's course, as we look in the direction in which it is moving, just as we speak of the right bank of a river. The rule for laying a ship to will be, tchen in the right-hand semicircle to heave-to on the starboard tack, and tolten in the left-hand semicircle to heave-to on the port tack in both hemispheres.* (61.) Mr. Bedfield says : — " At stations within the tropics, the changes of wind, during the passage of the hurricane, are sometimes k^^own to exceed those which per- tain to the passage of a regular circuit of wind; these changes sometimes running through the entire circuit of the compass, and even more. Again, they have been known to shift backtoard andfonaam, in alternate and fitfrd^faanges, when near the crisis of the storm. These phenomena, so far from disproving the rotative character of these gales, only prove something more, and afford, at least, probable evidence in support of one or both of the following positions, viz. : — 1. That high land and other obstouctions often produce sudden and fitfol gusts and changes in these violent winds. 2. That, in accordwce with onr observations of minor vortices, the axis of rotation ie often impelled, excentrically, around a smaller circuit, in the interior of the ad- vancing storm. " In the northern intertropical latitudes the recession or departure of the south- eastern limb of the storm appears to be followed, not unfrequently, by strong squalls or gusto tram S.E., this bemg the true course of the general trade-wind that deter- mines the track of the storm. Tliese gusts, or squalu, if mistaken for the regular action of the hurricane, may occasion erroneous deductions in reg^ard to the course of the storm. ** At stotions apparently within the re^ar track of the storm, there will sometimes be an absence of violent wind ; or the violence will pertain to only one of the phases, which the storm presents, in its regular course over such locality. « Some storms are interrupted in their development by the near approach of another storm. Care must be taken, therefore, not to mistake the N.E. wind of a storm whose north-western limb is Uius intercepted by a bordering storm, and which hence is som, -times followed by the natural current of air fivm the S.W. quarter, for the changes that pertain to the centre of the gale." Mr. Redfield says, in conclusion, " That courses and developments of the storms which pass over the Island of Great Britain are believed Lo be more complex than on the shores of the United Stetes. It is not improbable that the course of many Eu- ropean storms is in a south-eastern direction. A comparison of marine reporto has shown me that, while a storm was blowing at West or W.S.W. in the English • " An Attempt io Develop the Law of Storms," Srd edition. I8«0j p. 609 ; and " The Frogress, sc, of the JLaw of Storms and of Variable Winds," 1849, p. 25. HURRICANES, ETC. 217 Channel, it \ra8 blowing S.E. at ELdnore ; at N.E. on the East coast of Scotland ; and at North and N.W. in the Irish Channel ; thus exhibiting, plainly, a rotation to the left : but it is on cai-eful investigations, herea^r to be nwde, that we must rely for a proper development of the system of European storms." * (82.) The Season which is m" liable to these visitations is between July and October; they are comparativelj rare during other months, though not entirely unknown. The following is a list of 113, arranged in the months they occurred in the West Indies, taken fi-om Mr. Birt's Hand-Book :— I Jan Feb. 1 Mar. I Apr. 2 I May June 4 July 15 Aug. Sept 36 25 Oct. 27 Nov. 1 Dec. 2 Total. 113 y C^^n>*<.'-t.-tf--«--rt^ .dS€ yt^'A^ /(■%<^C^ ' ■ ^ - ^ •^- * ff^ y6f-'n^ fTL-'-^-r-n^ ^ .^m^ •s'^t-^-z^ )re slowly, .tc-rru^ a^ -/^-c^ ieor to pass J,«A-*^f^-'>ic'^-^-/-i5V'-^^^^^ -A€ M<.t.f^ic9^ atmosphere \ti M^-n.'^-u/ '^Tz,*-^-*^ a,S-^-n,*^ A^, ' upper sm*- .——-.... „ V . > variations in the barometric column. It by no means follows that, piuctically, this will alwava be found : a ship may only skirt the exterior of the storm, and, consequently, tne mercury will only rise, or oscillate, according to the relative position of the hurricane and the ship ; bat it .nay be taken as an indication, when the barometer begins slowly to rise after being depressed, that the greatest danger has passed over, or that the s'hip is steering away from it. Therefore, should there be any sudden change in the barometer, either rismg or falling, its indications should never oe neglected, especially daring the period, and in the regions, subject to these storms. % The barometer some- times sinks two inche$ during the progress of a hurricane. — (See Aeid, pp. 268, 271.) One great advantage in the Aneroid barometer is, that its variations occur simul- taneously with their causes. In the mercu-4al barometer, the friction of the mercury on the tube, and other reasons, concur to make the column r'se or fall at some time after the change has occurred. In this the Aneroid barometer possesses great advantage, and it has another veiy great claim to notice, — that it clearly shows very minute changes, which the oscillation or pumping motion of the mercury in bad weather will not tulow to be estimated. (84.) The main object of the navigator, when assailed by a hurricane, should be to keep his vessel clear of the centre of rotation, a» there the strength of the wind con- centrates, sudden shifts take place, and heavy and confused seas break. It is obvious,, that the nearer the vortex is approached the quicker the shift of wind will be, and vice versd, t "wtsr -.-■-• -: .■■,,«■ -....j ., -»,,-...:> ■;:. ., .,,»'• ■ -,.-.■ v ♦ " American Journal of Science and Arts," vol. xxxv. f " Reid," p. 421. X In connexion with barometric changes, we may here advert to the constitution of the atmos^^ere, as mentioned on p. 180. To that statement we will add the oonclusious arrived at by Professor Dov6, of Berlm, from his observations. In the northern bomisphore, the baronuter fells during E.S.E. and E. winds, passeE from falling^ to risiug during S-W., riHes with W.N.W. and N., and has its maximum rise with N.E. wind. The thermometer riites with E.S.E. and S. winds, has its maximum with S.W., fulls with W.N.W. and N., and its minimum at N.E. The tkutieity of vapour increascr, with E.S.E. and S. winds, has its maximum at S.W., and dimiidshos during the wind's progress by W. and N.W. to N ; ut N.E. it has 4 minimum, 2 K 216 OBSERVATIONS ON WINDS. %<'^^f^0--97 ^{? ^2««>tV* i^kf-^-9- J?^^«-*-.«^ at^y^^-tf be gatbered firom the subsequent remarks. But the great point with the mariner is to avoid their fiuy, and, having ascertained their character and his relative poflition on the meteor, to make the best course for getting away from it. Colonel Sir William Beid's " Law," is simple, and will be best given in his own words. (79.) Colonel Sir W. Reid'a Rule for laying Ships to in Hurricanes. — ^That tack on which a shi^ should be laid-to in a huiTicane mis hitherto been a problem to be solved, and is one which seamen have long considered important to have explained. In these tempests, when a vessel is lying-to, and the wind veers by the ship's head, she is in danger of getting stem-way, even when no sail is set ; for in a hunicane t^e wind's force upon the masts and yards alone will produce this effect should the wind veer ahead " ^ '^ "~ '~'~'"'""»«' ♦!»«•♦ waooola Kavo often fennrlorod &nm tliiat>iiiiiia. tv.ftfi Whentl - a ship thex If great! true one, t] already sol the ri^ht-h direction u The rule on the star\ in both herl (81.) Mi. , during the passage of tfie hurricane, are sometimes k\iown to exceed those which per- tain to the passage of a regular circuit of wind; these changes sometimes running through the entire circuit oi the compass, and even more. Again, they have been known to shift backward andfortoara, in alternate and nt^^lunges, when near the crisis of the storm. These phenomena, so far from disproving the rotative character of these gales, only prove something more, and afford, at least, probable evidence in support of one or both of the followmg positions, viz. : — 1. That high land and other obstructions often produce sudden and fitful gusts and changes in these violent winds. 2. That, in accordwce with our observations of minor vortices, the axis of rotation is often impelled, excentrically, around a smaller circuit, in the interior of the ad- vancing storm. « In the northern intertropical latitudes the recession or departure of the south- eastern limb of the storm ap^ars to be followed, not unfrequently, b^ strong squalls or gusts fit>m S.E., this bemg the true course of the general trade-wind that deter- mines the track of the storm. These gusts, or squalls, if mistaken for the regular action of the hurricane, may occasion erroneous deductions in regard to the course of the storm. ** At stations apparently within the re^ar track of the storm, there will sometimes be an absence of violent wind ; or the violence will pertain to oitly one of the phases, which the storm presents, in its regular course over such locality. ** Some storms are interrupted in their development by the near approach of another storm. Care must be taken, therefore, not to mistake the N.E. wind of a storm whose north-western limb is tiius intercepted by a bordering storm, and which hence is sometimes followed by the natural current of air fivm the S.W. quarter, for the changes that pertain to the centre of the gale." Mr. Redfield says, in conclusion, " That courses and developments of the storms which pass over the Island of Great Britain are believed to be more complex than on the shores of the United States. It is not improbable that the course of many Eu- ropean storms is in a south-eastern direction. A comparison of marine reports has shown me that, while a storm was blowing at West or W.S.W. in the English • " An Attempt to Develop the Law of Storms," .3rd edition, 1850> p. 609 ; and " The Progress, &c., of the Law of Stomu and of Variable Wiuda," 1849, p. 25. HORRICANES, ETC. 217 Channel, it was blowing S.E. at Elsinore ; at N.E. on the East coast of Scotland ; and at North and N.W. in the Irish Channel ; thus exhibiting, plainly, a rotation to the left : but it is on cai-eful investigations, hereafter to be made, that we must rely for a proper development of the system of European stiorms." • (82.) The Season which is most liable to these visitations is between July and October; they are comparatively rare during other months, though not entirely imknown. The following is a list of 11 C, arranged in the months uey occurred in the West Indies, taken fiom Mr. Birt's Hand-Book : — Jan Feb. 1 Mar. 2 Apr. May June 4 July 15 Aug. 36 Sept. 25 Oct. 27 Nov. 1 Dec. 2 TotaL 113 I ;■ I 1 (83.) The Barometer will be found an unerring indicator of the approach of these meteors, pi-ovided proper attention be paid to its monitions. As a general law, the Ebllowiag will be its. usual vibrations: — Just previous to the commencement of the hurricane, the mercuiy will suddenly rise above its oi-dinary level ; f soon after it will begin to fall, and the wind probably rises, showing that the storm has begun. The merciuial column then begins to descend, rapidly at first, and then more slowly, till the centre of the hurricane has passed over, when it begins gradually to rise, and the reverse of the commencement ensues ; it attains a higher level, and then as sud- ':jdenly falls to the mean height. This is supposing the whole of the meteor to pass "'over, and the centre to be crossed; the mercury snowing the quantity of atmosphere above. Upon a little consideration, it will be evident that the form of the upper sm*- i face of the revolving storm, or the section of the voi-tex, is described by the variations in the barometric column. It by no means follows that, practically, this will aiivays be found : a ship may only skirt the exterior of the storm, and, consequently, tne mercury will only rise, or ossUlate, according to the relative position of the hurricane and the ship , bat it may be taken as an indication, when the barometer begins slowly to rise after being depressed, that the greatest danger has passed over, or that the ship is steering away from it. Therefore, should there be any sudden change in the barometer, either rismg or falling, its indications should never be neglected, especially daring the period, and in the regions, subject to these stoims. % The barometer some- times sinks two inches daring the progress of a hurricane. — (See Beid, pp. 268, 271.) One great advantage in the Aneroid barometer is, that its variations occur simul- taneously with their causes. In the mercuiial barometer, the friction of the mercury on the tube, and other reasons, concur to make the column rise or fall at some time after the change has occurred. In this the Aneroid barometer possesses great advantoge, and tt has another very great claim to notice, — ^that it clearly shows very minut« changes, which the oscillation or pumping motion of the mercury in bad weather will not allow to be estimated. (84.) The main object of the navigator, v/hen assailed by a hurricane, should be to keep his vessel clear of the centre of rotation, as there the str.3ngth of the wind con- centrates, sudden shifts take place, and heapy and confused seas break. It is obvious,. that the nearer the vortex is approached the quicker the shift of wind will be, and vice verad. • " American Journal of Science and Arts," vol, sxxv. f ♦' Reid," p. 421. X In comiexion with barometric changes, we may here advert to the constitution of thfi atmosphere, as mentioned on p. 180. To that statement we will add the oonclu8ioq.s ayrivod at by Professor Dov6, of Berhn, from his observations. In the northern hemisphere, the barometer fells during E.S.E. and £, winds, passes from fulling to rising during S.W., rises with W.N.W. and N., and has its maximum rise with N.^. wind. The thernumeter rises with E.S.E. and S. winds, has its maximum with S.W., falls with W.N.W. and N., and its minimum at N.E. The ekuticity of vapour increases with E.S.E. and S. winds, has its mnximnm at ^.W., and diminishes during the wind's progress by W. and N.W. to N ; at N.E. it has a minimum, 2 K 218 OBSERVATIONS ON WINDS. The centre of the atorm is most likely to be different at varioiu times : but it m certain that, in Rome cases, a certain intervid occurs, and this of considerable extent ; while in others it has been thought that there is no calm or open space free from its impetuosity. At all events, it must naturally be supposed, that the nearer the proximity of the centre the greater must be the danger from the force of the wind, and its more quickly shifting its direction. Lieutenant Ecana remarks that, " When fairly under the dominion or power of the storm, and in any part of the area, except in tlie immediate 'V'icinage of the oenti-e of rotation, a ship will not be liable to be taken aback ; because, if scudding, she would not intersect the wind ; and if she be lying-to, it will either break her off or draw aft gradually, according to the tack she is on : but the case may be different under cer- toin circumstances. Most ships are dismasted at the crisis ; that is to say, at the time the wind blowe etrongeat, whicn is always on the nearest approach from the centre to any given position. ' The point at which the wind of the hurricane cotnmencea, if observed, will make known to the observer the verge under which he is placed. J 85.) Prognoatica. — With that threatening aspect of the sky which generally pre- es all stoitns, — such as the greasy halo round the sun or moon, tne rolled and tufted forms of the clouds, with their lurid streaks of light and extraordinary colours, and the heavy bank clinging to the hoi*izon with its darting forks and threads of pale lightning, — every seaman is acquainted. The best and surest of all warnings 'will, however, be found in that invaluable and seldom-failing monitor, the barometer ; the language of which, in the torid zone, is unmistakeable, because there it is usually so tranquil and undistmbed. When any such warning ka mptoms are obsen^ed in any quarter of the wocld it may be supposed that no time will be lost in making all due preparation, and especially if to such menacing appearances be added the conftised and troubled agitation of the sea which often precedes these revolving storms, and always shows that they are at no great distance. But if these combined prognostics should occur within the limits of those regiona in which these cyclones occur, let the seaman immediately consider the possibiUty, at least, of his being about to encounter a storm of that revohing type of which we have been treating.* (86.) Acting under this anticipation, his first care should be to discover the position of the storm with respect to the vessel, or, in other words, to ascertain its bearing. Fortunately this is a prablem of extreme facility, for, as we have already stated, it is one of the remarkable laws of these storms that in opposite hemispheres they revolve in opposite directions — in North latitudes against the course of the sun, that is to say, tcom. right to left, or in a direction contrary to the movement of tibe hands of a watcn, and in South latitudes tcom. left to right ; and, secondly, it is knovra that, no matter how ^at or how little may he the size of the storm-field, the wind continually blows in a circular course round and round a centre or vortex. It therefore necessarily and demonstratively follows that this centre must always be at right angles to that cir- cular course ; or, in other words, that the bearing of the centre lies 8 points of the compass from the direction of the wind. Now, these two considerations are quite enough for our purpose, for they enable us to answer the question instantly and cer- tainly by the following general rule : — • Although it is true that the prognostics of a commor. coming storm nre, in genorul, BuflSciently plain to bo understood liy a spectator, from the an^Ty appearance of the firma- ment, yet it is also true that there is no jMirticular indication in any one quarter of the horizon sufficiently maikod, like the space occupied by the B'.ack squall panoply of tlie Caribbean Sea ; — so that an acuto seaman shall say, " thence wiL the blast come. On the contrary, the clouds gather together (we speak from experience) in dense masses, of a cinereous hue, in every direction, until the whole canopy of heaven is overspread, and tlio gloom at last becomes bo intense that, even at mid-day, to speak within bounds, beyond a quarter of a mile no object can be even indistinctly seen. There are, however, some degrees of variation in the intensity of the obscurity ; but we all know that the measure of distance by the eye upon such an exciting occasionis not likely to be very exact ; at one period in a hurricane, just as the ship was dismasted, at the cnsig, near noon, v,'ei ooubl riot elcftrly dis- tinguish the end of the bowHprit from the quarter-deck. — Jjietitenaiit Eratis. HURRICANES, ETC. 219 ; but it is )le extent ; ee from its aeurer the the 'wind, wer of the ,e centre of she would }r draw aft under cer- at the time le centre to nmences, if aced. lerallv pre- rolled and iry colours, ;ads of pale mings 'n-ill, ^meter; the 9 usually so ved in any dag all due he conftised storms, and prognostics 3cur, let the o encounter the position its bearing, stated, it is hey revolve it IS to say, of a watcn, ;, no matter lally blows ssarily and ;o that cir- >ints of the s are quite y and cer- in general, the firma- rter of the oply of tlie /• On the lasses, of a lad, and tho beyond a >me degrees of diBtnnce peiiod in a rlcmi'lv clis- J (87.), Rule. — Look to the wind's eye, — set its bearing by the compass, — ^take the 8th point to the BIGHT thereof — and that will be the oearing of the centre of the storm if in noi-di latitude ; or, if in south latitude, the 8th point to the LEFT of the direction of the wind. For example : suppose the vessel to be in 14° N. latitude, the wind from E.S.E., and the barometer and sky indicating a coming gale, — then, look at the compass, take the 8th point to the right of E.S.E., and S.S. W. will infallibly be the bearing of the brewing storm, if it be of a revolving type. Or, under simihur appearances oi the weather in 14° S. latitude, yrith the wind S.W., take 8 points to the left of S.W., and S.E. will consequently be the direction of the centre of the im- pending gale. In the foi-mer case, the vessel will be on tb'^ northern edge of the storm-field; and in the latter, she will be somewhere in its north-western segment. figi '^S/i In order to simplify'this subject, and render it perfectly clear, a copy of the 'urc annexed (obligingly communicated to Mr.Purdy by the late Lieutsnant Evans, 220 OBSERVA'nONS ON WINDS. who wrote on this subject imder the name of " Stormy Jack"), may be drawn on thick Eaper or card-board. The outer circle to be fixed, representing the points of the orizon ; the inner circle, with index, to be moveable, and attached, with a button in the centre, so as to revolve on the outer or under circle : thus the inner circle may rejpresent the phases of the wind, as it gyrates round a centre ; the arrows showing the revolution of the aerial current from right to left. The moveable circle is sub- divided into four quadrants, for the purpose of fieudlitating the mode of operation. Here (says Lieutenant Evans) it will be obvious that, if a vessel be caught under the N.N.W. verge of the hiuricane, the wind; as shown by the arrow annexed to that point, will be, apparently, from E.N.E., and the changes will be seen as they occur progressively. On the N.E. verge of the hurricane the wind will appear to come from the S.E. On the North verge the wind will be East ; and if on the West, it will be northerly, as shown in the %ure. The subject, when considered, will be readily understood : only bearing in mind that the shifts of wind will appear, in moat eases, to be from left to right, while the general teind is actually pursuing quite a contrary direction. S)9.) To use the instrument, formed as above, place the moveable circle upon the er one. East, in juxtaposition with the North point of the horizon. The vessel's position may be marked as a stationary spot on the outer or under circle — say under the N.N.W. verge, where the wind is at E.N.E. ; then move the upper circle in the line of progression to the N.W., which is the general line pursued, and the changes of the wind will be seen as they occur on the object marked. The direction of the wind is independent of the progression of the storm ; and as the current of air, whilst sweeping round the centre, pursues one unvaried path, it follows that, under every point of the horizon, there will be experienced a wind blow- ing at right angles to it, unchangeable in its direction ; thus, under the North point of the horizon, there will be an East wind ; under the South point, a West wind ; and under the East point, a South wind. So that, were the storm stationary, a ship scudding round the entire circle, from any given position, would experience the wind firom every jwint of the compass, in regular succession ; but this, as the fact is, can very rarefy, if ever, happen, on account of the progressive movement of the entire meteor. As these storms do not pursue a uniform velocity, the rate of their actual pro* gression can be arrived at only after they have ceased to act on any two or more sta- tionary spots J or upon two ships, by noting the exact time each experienced the first shock of the hurricane, and also the time of its departure, respectively. Some cause or causes operate to accelerate the rate at one time, and retard it at another. On reference to the preceding diagram, it will be seen, that if a ship first encoun- ters a htu-ricane with the wind at E.N.E., she will be under the N.W. verge ; and as the progression is (generally) to the N.W., the changes of the wind will bo to the eastward, going round to the S.E. and South, and ending with it at about S.W. by S. Ajtparently these changes will be from right to left. It becomes necessary here to observe, that, although the general medium coume of the hurricane in the West Indies has been found to be N.W., yet in two or three in- stances we have reason for believing that either a deviation in particular parts of its course, or otherwise a vibration of oscillation of the entire mt'toor, has taken nlace. Any deviation, however, from the general course pursued by the storm to the N.W. can easily be detected, from the veering of the wind ; as that ought to be regular, wh( ' the progressive path of the stoim is regular, except at or near the vortex. For insti. tee, if the hurricane commences at E.N.E., and tne wind docs not follow the regular successive changes, as noted above, we may be assured thut the storm is not pursuing a course to tlie N.W. ; and the true lino of progix-ssion may be ascertained by the circle, so as to gain the corresponding points of oliange to those which occur. Again, if the storm commences at North, the wind ought to veer (under the same nrogressive direction of N.W.J to the N.W., West, and. end with it about W. bv S. or w.S.W. Hat if, after the wind has got to West, the storm should end with it at bouth (as it did at Antigua in 1804), we shall be assured that a deviation had taken HURRICANES, ETC. 321 wn on thick nnts of the a button in r circle may wa showing ircle is sub- eration. aught under exed to that is they occur o come from it, it wUl be ing in mind bit, while the cle upon the The vessel's ! — ^say under circle in the ke changes of arm ; and as ried path, it I wind blow- North point it wind ; and tnary, a ship nee the wind e fact is, can >f the entire actual pro- >r more sta- iced the first Some cause r. rst encoun- ; and as bo to the S.W. by S. courae of three in- arts of its jkcn place. \o the N.W. I bo regular, jrtex. For follow the jtorm is not I ascertained lioh occur. ST the same bv 8. or with it at hud taken place at the westward in the progression, or otherwise a vibration or oscillation to the southward. The uncertainty q{ these aberratioas should not deter the navigator from placing confidence in the general remarks here {riven, as these phased on Mr. Redfield's theory) have been arrived at from experience, from &cts which are incontrovertible, and from a careful study of the subject ; and besides, should these variations not happen, and to a certainty they do not uways occur (at least on the ocean), he may benefit by them ; whilst, under a case of their occurrence, no rules can possibly be given for his gruidance ; he must place his veasel in the best position his judgment points out, and passively await the result. t^c-, ., We shall now endeavour to explain, in the plainest manner we can, the operation of the wind, and its effects on a vessel in each of the quadrants, when tiie progression is to the N.W. (90.) First, or N.E. Quadrant — ^Wind from South to East. The changes of wind, if rt vessel be lying-to, will appear to take place from left to rwht throughout : as the wind will seem to draw round them from the eastwwd toward the Sout^, although it is in fact proceeding the contrary way, or from right to left. The navigator's attention is particularly directed to this apparent paradox ; for, whilst he notes the wind down m his journal as veering with the sun, it is all the time, as remarked before, going the contrary way ! The delusion is occasioned by the progression of the hurricane to the N.W,, which, bv receding from the vessel's posi- tion, has the effect of bringing up the more southerly phases of the wind in succession, and, consequently, impairing to these an apparent contrary direction to that which the whole current of air is actually pursuing. This deceptory process is somewhat similar to the well-known astronomical illusion every day before our eyes : we allude to the apparent cotirse of the great luminary. Not only can we imagine, from the evidence of our sense of seeing (not at all times to be depended upon), that the sun is moving from East to West, nut, in common parlance, such idea is invariably ex- pressed ; yet everybody knows that this is only apparent, and that the delusion is occasionea by the diurnal rotation of the earth round its axis from West to East. This point, however, once clearly understood, will no longer perplex us ; and the best mode to adopt, in order to avoid being puzzled, is, to use tho moveable circle with the phases of the wind marked on the run, placing it over the fixed circle with the points of the horizon marked to represent the ocean. We note proceed with the first quadrant. If a ship scuds to the northward, the direction of the n > > orations of the wind will in a great measure depend upon her ve- locity, as she is crossing obliquely the course of the progression : if she Keeps pace with the northerly advance of the storm, the wind will remain the same ; ii she exceeds it, the wind will draw round to the eastward ; and if the progression out- strips her, the changes will be to the southward. In either of the latter coses the vanatioiis will be few, in all probability ; and the westerly progress may be expected to cauHO the ship to bo speedily thrown out of the circle of operations. A ship is likely to enter this quadrant only under the northern verge from the North to the N.E. point : if she happens to be standing to the southward, vnthin the limits of the trade- wind, she will bo liable to be taken aback ; but if standing to tk» northward, of course she will not. (91.) Second, or S.E. Quadrant. — Wind L-om West to South. A ship lying-to, with tne wind from any point between South and S.W., the shifts will be from the southward toward the "West, apparently {torn left to right. If the wind be between the S.W. and West, there will bo few if any changes, as the ship will be near tho posterior line of the progression; what changes mav happen will probubly bo from West towards tho South. The vessel will soon be clear of tho commotion. It seems gretty evident that a vessel will not, in the firwt instanec, bo liable to fall under tho w.E. verge in this quadrant, for this reason — that she cannot overtake the hurricane, as its velocity, in all probability, at any time would exceed her rate of sailing. She may, however, just touch litci-ally about the southern verge, where sh« would get the 222 OBSERVATIONS ON Wl^DS. wind fimm the West. To eater this quadrant, therefore, a ship must pons througl^ some other. (93.) Third, or S. W. Quadrant.— Wihd finom North to West. A ship lying-to, the wind from the noi-thward (as the storm progresses) will draw rouftd to the weMtward, firom right to left, truly as apparently so. As a ship scuds to the southward and eastward, the wind will draw round in the same manner as mentioned above. It appears obvioTis, that a vessel falling into the ctorm, under any point in this quadrant, would merely feel the " bnuh," but she will be liable to be taken aback if standing to the northward or north-eastward on first entering the scene of operation, supposing her to be within the limits of the trade-wind. (94.) Iburth, or If. W. Quadrant ^Wind from East to North. If a ship lies-to witili tne wind at any point between East and N.E., it will a^aear to draw round firom left to right, or ftata. N.E. by E. to East. If she lies-to with the wind between N.E. and North, the shifts will be from right to left, or fix>m N.E. by N. to North. Under the N.W. verge (where the wind is at N.E.), a ship, being there in the line of the anterior progression, will drift, probably, into or very near to the centre of the circle, whicn, on account of the sudden shifting of tne wind there, should, if possible, be avoided, as there the greatest danger may correctly be considered as existing. If a shin scuds, under the same circumstances of winds, the changes will appear the same as above given ; but slower in the first instance, and quicker in the second, for these reasons : that in the one case, the points of change are receding from her as she advances ; and in the other, they draw toward her approach, her velocity through the water accelerating the alterations; and this difference is occasioned by the progression to the N.W. Within the limits of the trade-wind, if a ship be standing to the southward, she wiU not be liable to be taken aback, or striking the storm in tms quadranti but she would be so if steering to the northward. • .Vn . . ih-ik^t^^ It should be constantly held in remembrance, that, under atl circumstances, the wind remains the same; or, in other words, that under any given point of the horizon, the wind will be found to blow from a particular direction unchangeable, so that there is actually no shifting ; the changes observable being occasioned by the progression of the storm to the N.W., and the movements of a vessel. From this peculiar character of the tempest, the course which a ship will pursue through the circle of operations, as also the successive changes of the wind, as these appear to take place, become an easy problem to solve, after having noted the point finom which the first wind or the first shift, is felt, provided no £vergcncy in the course, or vibratory motion of the meteor, takes place. Although a ship in most cases, we imagine, may be more likely to fall into the oirale of operations under the north-western verge of the storm than in any other part, as that is the anterior advancing section, no general mles can be laid down for the guidance of the mariner for placing his ship in such a position so as to ensure her not being taken aback when the storm shall be first felt, oeoause until thiit moment aiTives, when the direction of the first blast is to become his " polar star," ho cannot, with unerring certainty, anticipate his position with resjiect to the particular verge of the hurricane that is approaching him. Under such unavoidable circumstances, he must use his best judgment in prepara- tion for meeting the woi-st, and be ready to lay his vessel to, or to scud, according to the direction of the wind flrHt exiwrienccd. To be quite sui-e of what he is about to do, perhaps the safest plan would bo to wait until the first sh^ takes place after the commencement of the storm } by which measure, his {rasition would bo confirmed, a point of material consequence to arrive at. I'.vor^ experienced scamnn, after having given the theory his best attention, and made himself familiar with the whole worKing of the wonderful meteor, will of cdiii-ho follow the dictates of his own mature judgment, upon an occasion that will assuredly HURRICANES, ETC. 22ar call forth the flill exercise of it. Withont, therefore, presnmiiig or desiring to obtrude upon him the manner we ooraelves should act under a case of such uncertainty, which would demand all the resources of mind of the individual commander, for the first time placed in such a dilemma, we shall nevertheless offer it here a mere 'llustration. Let us, then, buppose that we are steering to the northward in our ship, within the limits of the trade-wind (call it E.N.E.), and that certain prognostics appear, which our judgment informs us forbode a storm. If it happens to be the hurricane season, we are bound by prudence to prepare the ship for encountering a tempest of that nature, even though appearances may induce us to think that such would not eventu- ally happen ; for, whether a mere common gale or a hurricane should follow, every sensible person will admit that, during that season, it is the wisest, as it is the safest plan, to be prepared to meet the worst that may happen under such appearances. It must be recollected, that nature herself proclaims the warning, and her admonitions are not to be disregarded with impunity. Without loss of time, we make the ship snug, hatches battened down, &c. This done, we should bring her to the wind on the starboard tack, with her head to the northward, with a fore and a mizen storm stav-sail. We cannot, as we said before, anticipate under what verge of the storm we shall enter, but 'Vi e shall have done all that prudence can dictate, oy lying-to tcithout square sails, and of course making our minds up to have the fore-and-aftors blown to shreds by the new wind, come from whatsoever quarter it may. In this position we must wait patiently until the first shift of wind takes place. If this shoild be from E.N.E. to E. by N. and East, we should make ourselves easy in the position obtained, with reference to the particular vergo >: storm, as well as in that we had placed the ship ; having the assurance (from ft of wind) that the anterior verge which had struck us, would be now runni ^y at the rate of from 15 to 20 miles an hour, whilst our drift to the westward would not exceed 3jt miles in the same time ; so that every point that the wind drew round toward the South, would tell as plainly as if a map of the whole operations were suspended in the heavens overhead, for our consolation, that our exit from the commotion was i-apidly drawing nearer and nearer ; and that, if the ship proved equal to contend wiui the crisis, and no vibration occurred, we should escape the centra. This may sound, in the style of the celebrated Francis Moore, of predicting memory, very like " taking a peep into ftiturity." We are not, however, studying the doctrine of probabilities. As far as we at present know of the matter, and (thanks to Mr. Red- fleld) we have sained a pretty general insight into it, there appears but two circum- stances at all likely to upset our calculations and foresight of wnat is to hap])en, and there are, as intimated before, a divergency in the line of progression, or a vibration of the entire meteor j and here we are taught, thi>t, with all the wide and searching capacity of our minds, there is a point beyond which it is not permitted man to peer. We have been allowed, however, to glean enough of the economy of this wonderful phenomenon, to excite our unfeigned gratitude to Him "who rules the whirlwind aud the storm." We proceed : — On the other hand, if the shifL of wind was to the N.E., or even a point on cither ride, we should immeidiately know that we were in the " very jaws of the lion ;" ond to escape being overwhelmed in the vortex we i .ust run for it.* On this uccasioii, every moment is of importance, when we bear in mind that we are now in the path which the centre will follow. To the S.W., therefore, we start away, not without an impressive dread, as the wind comes veering round aud round towara the North, of a too close approximation to the vortex, toward which cui-ve the ship makes inclines. If we coulu tell the exact diameter of the hurricane, and its precise rate of progres- sion, we could calculate pretty occurately whether, and ot wnat distonce, we should * Whon iho iino of pron:roR8ion is to tho W.N.W. (a dirertion which soinp of the most Houtliorn Htoims hnvo purnu(i\.:^ .: (,.-:,? ,• ilj^h Tr '.i ,,>;si^*. The N.W. V rge of the hurricane, whilst it advances in that direction, is the *• very head arid ^ront' of the danger, the nucleus of which follows, in a direct line, the advance of that point. The consequences, be they the foundering of the ship, or the loss of her masts, &c., are inevitable. If prompt and active measures are not taken .^o get out of that position. Should the wind, at first, keep steady at E.N.E, for some time, which it would do (if the storm is of preat extent) when a ship enters under the N.N.W. ver^, the navi^toi may be a httlo puz/.led how to act, as anticipating a shift, to determine his position ; he need be under no apprehension ; the shift will come in due time (accord- ing to the extent of the circumrerencc) from the V,. by N., and so gradually round (but quickening as he approaches the centro) to the southward : he may, however, expect to loose some of his spars when the a-isia anives. We have dwelt longer upon the action of the wind in the fourth or N.W. quadrant, because under this anterior verge the greatest peril may follow ; and we may now be permitted to express a hope that mariners may derive some little advantage ftt)m the perusal of mis paper, as the writer has devoted his best attention to the subject with tnc sole view of rendering them, as brother sailors, a service. John Kvans. (Oft.) W« will close this portion of our remarks wivi. some general observations on HURRICANES, ETC. ing other* B wat can ;, although led ; a sort hope, take L 'With bare :onn where is lessened f, although BO doing is ind then it have been lunmation" Leservcs the imminent ; illy thrown tprehensiou nation, not- ! vortex as ve our con- leen lost in square sail iffs for five nd are here itY (the only d veered to adiant, and mppencd in ut that the bed above } lefying the centre of Hcarcciy a the raging the *' very t line, the fhip, or the iken >*o get would do ver^, the termine his le (accord- lally round \, however, or N.W. and wo :)me little attention k-vice. KVANS. Ivationa on ♦He siibjeot by Captain Richard Leighton, of Montrose, to whose kindness and talent WP : .. :r«lebted for numerous additions to hydrography: — " '.st. Outward-bound ships. As the S-E. storm-wind is generally nearly directly in fi'ont of the storm, on meeting with that wind and a failing barometer, &c., you should bear off freely to the north-westwai'd, thet is, nearly at right angles with the route of the gale, and all that you run that way will increase your distance from the centre when it passes you ; whilst, if you run westwarc, you will pass so near to the centre that you will be taken aback by the wind flying into the north-west- ward ; the object is to skirt the gale, and ham more westerly as the wind veers to the eastward. " 2nd. When the wind is to the southward of S.E., it appears that you must pass through the right-hand semicircle, and should haul to and hold all the soutaem that you can ; lay down the bearing and distance of the centre, and as soon as practicable, by a second bearing and al':tance, estimate the route of the gale and its progress. " 3i*d. Estimate your distance, and the course that you arc likely to make, clear of leeway, and some veering in the wind, and this will give you an idea at what distance you are likely to pass the centre, and what is likely to occur. Knowledge is power. Most cany soil long enough, but many don't set it soon enottgh. " 4th. The fcrther the wind is to the southward, the nearer you must pose to the centre, and as the wind veers and breaks her off, she will lay in the trough of the sea, and is most likely to get damage that way, so that if the wmd gets loose, it is time to* be upon the right tack (that i«, the starboard tack, with westerly winds, in the At- lantic, being in the rignt-hand semicircle). Every one knows best what his own ship will mar, and what she will perform; however, if you tcill go ahead till the last minute, when the barometer stops falling, it is high time, to have her round upon the rij>ht tack, as there is generally a tremendous gust shortly after the baro- rieter stops JPalling : or, when she has made a slight rise, an 1 the ship should be upon the st&iboai-d tack, that she may come tip and bow the sea when she takes it, " 5th. To wait for ' the lull,' or the ' sky to the westwai-d lighting up, to indicate the shift,' will often be too late. " Gth. Eight miles per hour, I think, is a fair medium for the rate of progress of rotatory gales in the Atlantic anC Southern Indian Oceans. The regular West India cyclone l;ravcls generally much quicker, and some Mauritius cyclones have a very slow movement ; that which the Charles Heddle scudded three and a half times round, only progressed about 2} fiilles per hour. — At Sea, August, 1851,— R. Leighton." (96.) EZAKPLES — ^To illustrate the pi-eceding remarks and directions, accounts of a series of re^-olving storms is given. They are illustrated by the map before alluded to at the commencement of the work. Routes on the Chart — No, I. Trinidad to Yucatan, over the middle of the Caribbean Sea, June 24 to 28, 1831. No. II. Barbadoes to the Mississippi, August 10 to 17, 1831. No. Ill Ouadaloupe to the Bank of Newfoundland, August 17 to 29, 1827. No. IV. Ouadaloupe and Antigua to Charlestown, and thenoe to the Buy of Fundy, September 3 to 10, 1804. No. V. Antigua, passing over Cuba, to the coast of Texas, August 12 to 18, 1835. No. VI. Barbuda to Chai-lestown, and thence to the Bank of Ne^vfomidland, August 12 to 19, 1830. No. VII. From ihe intersection of 20" North and 60^ West (N.E. of Barbuda), pass- ing to the Weet of Bermiula, and thence N.E. to the parallel of 42 J", September 29 to October 2, l8oJ. No. VIII. From the parallel of 22° (North of Porto-Uico) to Cape Ilnttcras, to the coast of Maine, Septemocr 1 to 5, 1821. 2 V 226 OBSERVATIONS ON WINDS. >( No. IX. From near the some spot as No. YIII., on a similar route, but more' to the eastward, Aagust 22 to 27, 1830. No. X. From the paitillel of 30° North, on the East side of the Florida Stream, to Cape Sable of Nova Scotia, January 13 to 16, 1831. No. XI. Inland storm, over the lakes, and thence to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, November 10 to 12, 183a. The route designated aa No. I. is that of the hurricane which visited the Islands of Trinidad, Toba^, and Grenada, on the 23rd of June, 1831. Pursuing its course through the Caribbean Sea, it was subsequently encountered by H.M. schooner Minx, and other vessels, and its swell was thrown with great force up>'n the south-eastern shores of Jamaica on the 2dth, while passing that island, where the wind at this time was light from the noi-thward. " After sweeping through the Caribbean Sea, the hurricane entered upon the coast of Yucatan, on uie night of the 27th, having moved over the entire route from Triridad to the western shore of the Bay of Hon- duras, in a little mora than 100 hours, a distance of nearly 1700 miles, equal to 17jniles an hour. Track No. II. is that of the hui-ricane which desolated Barbados in the night o^ the 10th of .lugust, 1831 ; and which passed Porto-Rico on the 12th; Aux Cayes, in Ilayti, and S. lago de Cuba, on the 13th ; Matanzas on the 14th ; was encountered off the Tortugas on the loth; in the Mexican Sea on the 16th, and was at Mobile, ^Pensaccla, and New Orleans on the 17th; a distance of 2,000 miles in about \50 hours, exceeding 13^ miles an hour. Its course, until it crossed the tropic of Cancer, wus nearly W.N.W. Mr. Rediield adds — " in pursuing its northern course, after leaving the ocean level, it must have encountered the mountain region of the Alle- firanies, and was perhaps uisorganized by the resistance opposed by these elevations. It api>ears, however, to have caused heavy rains in a large extent of country north- eastward of the Mexican Sea." Track No. HI. is that of the destructiue hurricane which swept over the Wind- ward Islands, 17th August, 1827; visited St. Martin and St. Thomas on the 18th; passed the N.E. coast of Hayti on the 19th ; Turks' Islands, on the 20th ; the Bahamas on the 21st and 22nd; was encountered on the coast of Florida and South Carolina on the 23rd and 24th ; off Cape Hatteras on the 25th ; off the Ddaware on the 26th ; off Nantucket on the 27th, and off Sable Isle and Bank on the 28th. Its asceitained coui'se and progess were nearly 3,000 miles in about eleven days ; or at the average rate of about 11 miles an hour. The direction of its route, before crossing the tropic, nearly N. 61° W., and in lat. 40°, while moving eastward, N. 58° E. Track No. IV. An extensive hurricane of September, 1804, which swept over the Windward Islands on the 3rd of that month ; the Virgin Islands and Poi-to-Rico on the 4th ; Turks' Islands on the 5th ; the Bahamas and the Strait of Florida on the 6th ; the coast of Geoi-gia and the Carolinas on the 7th ; Chesapeake and Delaware, with the continuous portions of Virginia, Maryland, and New Jersey, on the 8th ; and the States of Massachusets, New Hampsliire, and Maine, on the *9th ; bcin" on the high lands of New Hampshire a violent snow-storm. The destructive action of this stonn was widely extended on both sides of tlie track indicated upon the chart, and the same fact pertains in a greater or less degree to the other storms herein men- tioned. It api)ears to have ^)assed from Martinique and the other Windward Islands to Boston, by the usual curvilinear route, in about six days ; a distance of more than 2,200 miles, at an average pro<^ress of about 15^ miles an hour. Tr'-i'k No. V. The route of the hurricane which ravaged Antigua, Nevis, and St. Kitt's, in the afternoon and night of AugUNt 12th, 1835 ; St. Thomas, St. Croix, and Porto-llic* , on the 13th ; Hayti and Turks' Islands on the 14th ; the vicinity of Ma- tanzas and Havana on the 15th; was encountered off the Tortugas, on the Bank of Floiida, on the 16th ; in lat. 27' 21', long. 94°, and other points on the 17th and 18tb; and at Matamoras, near the Mexican shore, lat. 26° 4', on the 18th, where it was most violent during the succeeding night. It also^ passed over Golvcston Bav, in TexttH, and there blew with violence fi-om the SS.K. ; while at the mouths oi' the ^liMsiKNippi ond along the northern shores of tlie gulf, the galp \yuh not felt. This HURRICANES, ETC: <,>*/ 287 storm is remarkable, as moving more diractly and farther to the West, than is usual for storms which pass near the West Indian Islands, it having reached the Mexican shores betbre commencing its sweep to the northward. Course, ah^ut N. 73° W. : progress more than 2,200 miled in six days ; nearly equal to 13| miles an hour. Track No. VI. The memorable rale of August, 1830, described hereafter, which, passing close by the Windward Islands, visited St. Thomas on the, 12th was near Turks' Islands on the 13th ; at the Bahamas on the 14th ; eastern coast of Florida on the loth; coasts of Georgia aud the Carolina^ on the 16th; off Virginia, Maryland, New Jersey, and New York on '' e 17th, off Oeovge's Bank and Cai)e Sable on the 18th ; and over the Newfoundland Bank on the 1,9th ; having occupied about seven days in its ascertained coui'se fi-om near the Windward Islands, a distance of more than 3,000 miles ; the rate of its progress being equal to 18 miles an hour. K, aA<*a Mr. Redfield, we suppose the actual velocity of the wind, in its rotary movement, to be five times greater than this rate of pi'ogresH, which iS not beyond the known ve- locity of such winde, it will be found equal, in this period, to a rectilinear course of 15,000 miles. The same remark applies, in substance, to all the storms which are now passing under review. Track No. VII. was encountered to the northward of the Caribbee Islands on the 22th of September, 1830 ; its route was to the eastward of all those previously de- scribed, and was found on the Grand Bank of Nev^oundland, October 2, having caused great damage and destruction, on its widely-extended track, to the many vessels which fell in its way. The ascertained route may be estimated at 1,800 miles, and the average progress 25 miles an hour. Track No. VIII., experienced in September, 1821, as more fully shown hereafter. Thift hurricane was extremely violent ; it was enoountered to the north-eastward of Turks' Islands, on the 1st of the month ; to the northward of the Bahamas and near the latitude of 30" on the 2nd ; on the coast ox the Carolinos early in the morning of the 3rd ; and from thence, in the course of that day, along the coast of New York and Long Island ; and it is vepi'esentcd to have contmued its coui'se across the States of Connecticut, Massachusets, New Hampshire, and Maine. The diameter of the stonn appears to have exceeded 100 miles ; its ascertained route aud progress about 1,800 miles in sixty hours, equal to 30 miles an hour. ;/, <«im'fip f .''Jit 1> is^n' A similar bat less violent stwm swept along the same portion of the coost of the United States on the 28th of April, 183ii. Track No. IX. The route of a violent and extensive hurricane, which was en- countered to the noi-thward of Turks' Islands, August the 22nd, 1830; northward of the Bahamas on the 23rd ; and off the coast of the United States on the 24th, 2oth, and 26th of the same month. It produced much damage, but scarcely reached the American shores. Its duration was about forty hours, and progress more tardy than some others. Track No. X. A violent hurricone and snow-storm, which Hv*ept along the American const from the parallel of 30° North, on the oth and 6th of December, 1830, This track corrcsiionds to another storm of similar character, which swept along the coast on the 13th, 14th, and 15th of January, 1831. These violrnt whiter storms exhibiteil nearly the same phases of wind and general characteristics as those which appear in the summer and autumn. Track No. XI. The violent inland storm which passed over the Lakes Erie ond Ontario on the 11th of November, 1835. This storm was veiT extensive, spreading from the sea-coast of Virginia into the Canadas, to a limit unknown. The anterior portion of this gale was but modeiately felt, and its access was noted chiefly by the aireetion of the Mind and the great fall of the barometer ; the violence of the storm being exhibited chiefly by the posterior and colder portion of the gale, as is common with extensive overland stoims. The r;>g^lar progression of the storm, in an eosterly direction, was established by facts collected by Mr. Redfleld, from the borders of Lake Michigan to the Uulf of St. Lawrence ind the coasts of New England and Nova Bcotiu. 228 OBSERVATIONS ON WINDS. In perusing the deaci-iptiona above, it is to be noted that the lines on the Chart representing the routes, are given by Mr. Redfield as but approximations to the centre of the track or course of the several storms ; and the gales are to be considered as ex- tending their rotative circuit from 50 to 300 miles or more, on each side of the de- lineations ; the superficial extent of the storm being estimated both by c«tual infor- mation and by its duration at any point near the central portion of its route, as compared withi its average rate of progress. The circular fig^ure which appears upon the Chart, on Tracks Nob. I., V., and VII., will serve, in some degree, to illustrate the course of the wind in the various portions of the superficies covered by the storm, and also to explain the changes in the direc- tion of the wind, which occur successively at various points, during the regular progress of the gale. (97.) HURRICANES of 1780.— From want of adequate information on the subject, it was formerly assumed that the me.noi-able hurricane of the year 1780, which dis- gjrsed and desti'oyed nearly all the llritish fleet in the West Indies, took its course om W.N.W. to E.S.E. ; out from aathentic documents, acquired by Colonel Reid, it has been shown that two great storms occurred nearly at the same time, and these have been frequently confounded together, and considered but as one. The fli-st de- stroyed the town of Savanna-la-Mar, on the »i-d of October, 1780. The second, and by mr the gi eater one, passed over Barbadocs on the 10th and 11th of the same month, as will be ^own hereafter. The first or Savanna Hurricane appears to have progressed from the S.E. to the western mrt of Jamaica, and thence passed in a N.N.E. dii-ection over Cuba, the Great Bahama Bank, and Island of St. Salvador, continuing nearly in the same direction to the parallel of 35° N., in long. 69° W., whereabout its ravages probably ceased. Be- tween the 5th and 7th of October,' it annoyed the squadron under Rear- Admiral Rowley, between the parallels of 28° and 29i°, long. 72^° to 75°,* previous to which, at half-past five in tne morning of the 4th, the Phoenix frigate, under Sir Hyde Parker, was diiven on shore and wrecked at about 3 leagues to the eastward of dape Cruz, Cuba. At eleven p.m. of the. 2nd, the ship was off Poi-t Antonio, Jamaica, when the wind began to blow, with a stormy appearance to the eastward, and she then close-reefed her topsails. At eight a.m. of the 3rd, the wind was E.N.E., with occa- sional heavy squalls ; and Sir Hyde remarked that the weather had the aatm appear- ance as he had observed in the commencement of a hurricane in the East Indies. He then ordered the topsails to be taken in, and wore the ship, in order to keep mid-channel between Jamaica and Cuba. At two p.m. the Phoenix lay-to, with a storm mizen staysail, and her head to the northward. When night set in, the storm increased with great violence. At mid- night the wind ^a» S!e., and the ship drawing upon Cuba, the captain proposed to wear her, but no canvas could withstand the wind at this time, and under the direc- tion of the first lieutenant, Archer, she was wore by sending 200 of the crew into the fore-rigging. When about io cut away the masts, the ship took the ground, and if bhe had not been driven on shore she must have foundered. All the sm^'s company were saved, excepting twenty, most of whom were lost with the main-mast, and V ashed overboard. Of the ships in Rear-Admiral Rowley's squadron, above mentioned, on the 6tli and 7th of October, the Hector, Berwick, Bristol, Trident, and Ruby, wei*e disabled, and mostly dismasted. They had been sent by the Admiral, Sir Peter Parker, to convoy a fleet part of the way to Europe, and had subsequently the misfortune, in the same month, to meet the great hurricane, next described. The Savanna hurricane seems to have originated within the Caribbean Sea, and ■Mi to have passed over the Eastern Antillas, nor touched on the continental coast to the southward. The Scarborough frigate, which was lying a few days before in * Murkud • in the Chart. HURRICANES, ETC. 229 Montego Bay, was lost, and it is supposed that she foundered near the western endof Jamaica.* The Great Hurricane, which commenced at Barbadoes on the lOth of October, 1780,t with preceded in the evening of the 9th b;^ weather remarkably caun, but tlie sky surpi-isingly red and fiery, and during the night much rain feU. Thn storm ap- proached from the S.E., and the ships of the sqiiadron stationed here experienced the hurricane, each in turn, according to the place she was in. A letter from Dr. Blane, dated from the Sandwich, Sii- Geo. Rodney's flag-ship, stated that it was not pre- viously apprehended that there would be anything more than such a gale as they ex- perience, from time to time, at that season ; but, on the evening of the 10th, the wind rose to duch a degree of violence as clearly to amount to what is called a hurricane. At eight p.m. it began to make impression on all the houses, by tearing off the roofb, and overtnrowingi some of the walls. As the inhabitants had never been accustomed to such a convulsion of nature, they remained for some time in security, but they now began to began to be in the utmost consternation. * * * * It was thought to be at itd S-eatest height at midnigh'., and did not abate considerably until eight next mornings uring aU this time, most of the inhabitants had deserted their houses, to avoid being buried in the ruins ; and every age, sex, and condition, were exposed in the fields to the impetuous wind, incessant torrents of mn, and the terrora of thunder and lightning. Many were overwhelmed in the ruins, either by clinging tor shelter too lone in the buildings, or attempting to save whas was valuable, or by i.aavoidable accidents in the fall of walls, roofs, and fiii-niture, the materials of which were pro- jected to great distances. Even the bodies of men and cattle were lifted off and carried above the ground. From an estimate of the nmnber of deaths reported to the governor, they amounted to more than 3,000. All the fiiiits of the earth were de- stroyed ; most of the trees torn up by the roots, and many of them stiipped of their bark. The sea rose so high as to destroy the fori, cairying the great guns many yards from the platfoim, and demolishing^ the houses near the beach. A ship was driven on shore against one of the buildings of the naval hospital, which, by this shock, and by the impetuosity ol the wind and sea, was entirely destroyed and swept away. • • • ♦ The molc-ncad was swept away; and ridges of coral rock were thrown up to above the suiface of the water : but the harbour and roadstead were, upon th& whole, improved, having deepened in some places six feet, in others many fathoms. The crust of coral, which had been the work of ajjcs, leaving a soft oozy bottom, and many shells and fish were found ashore which had been previously miknown. The hurricane passed, in succession, over the Islands of St. Vincent, St. Lucia, Mariinioue, and Dominica, and included within its area those of Guadaloupe, St. Christoplier, St. Eustatius, &c. At St. Vincent, every building was blown down, and the town destroyed. At St. Lucia, which was near the centre of the hm-ricane, all the ban-acks and other buildings were blown down and the ships diiven to sea. At Martinique, likewise, all the ships that had brought troops and provisions were blown off the island. On the 12th, four ships with their crews foundered in Fort Royal Bay. The other ships were blo^^Ti out of tne roads. In the town of St. Pien-e, on tlie N. W. coast, every house was blo\tTi down, and more thu.. i,000 people perished. At Fort Royal, the cathedral, seven churches, other religious edifices, inony public buildings, ana 1,'00 houses, wei-e blown down, as was the hospital of Notie Daine, in which 1,600 sick and wounded, the greatest part of whom were buried in the ruins. The number of persons who peiished in Martinique is said to have been 9,000. Dominica likewise suffered greatly, and Guadaloupe was within the northern verge of the hurricane. At St. Eustatius, although not far within the N.E. verge, the loss was very gi-eat. * Colonel Roid, " Law of Storms," pp. 276—278, and Chart ix. The colonel, as in other cases, adds copious details, which plainly show where the hurricane did not operate, either to the East or to tiiQ Wesl. t The track of this liunicunc is shown on the Cliart comraencing between No. i. and ii. 230 OBSERVATIONS ON WINDS. On the 10th of 06tober, at eleven a-m., the sky on a sudden blackened all round t it looked as dismal as night, attended with the most violent rains, thunder, lightning, and wind. In the afternoon the gale increased; seven ships were driven on shore near the North point, dashed to pieces on the rocks, and tb'^ir crews perished. Nine- teen vessels cut their cables ano went to sea. In the niplit every house to the north- ward and southwai'd was blown down, or washed away with the inhabitants into the sea, a few only escaping. The houses to the East and West were not so much hurt till the afternoon of lie 11th, when the wind, on a sudden, shifted to the eastward ; and at night it blew with redoubled fury, and swept away every house; but the forts, barracks, nospital, cathedral, and four churches, remained. Here between 4,000 and 5,000 persons are supposed to have lost their lives. Advancing north-westward, the centre of the hurricane on the 14th had reached to the Mona Passage, on the West of Porto-Rico. Here the Ulysses and Pomona, with a fleet under their convoy, sufiered greatly, and here the l)eal Castle frigate was ' wrecked. Another frigate, the Diamond, fell within the western verge of the storm pn the 15th, but happily escaped by passing Alto- Vela, on the South side of Hayti. Above the parallel of 20° the Stitliny C'lntle, 64, was lost on the Silver Kay Bank, and most of her crew perished. On the I8th we find, in about 22| N., and 69" W"., the IVident, Ruby, Bristol, Hector, and Grafton, men-of-war, on the S.W. verge of the stonn. The ship last mentioned, on the 16th, at noon, was in lat. 261°, long, (by estimation) 71° 30'; heavy gales and cloudy ■i eather ; lying-to under trysails; the gales split the sails to ribands. On the 18th, lying-to; strong gales and heavy squalls. — 17th to 18th, cariied rapidly to the south-eastward, when the Trident, Ruby, and Hector, came in sight as above. At eleven a.m. spoke the latter, in great distress. I; ?. The Ruby, Trident, and Bristol, on the 15th, were as high as 27| N., and they, too, from the westera border of the hurricane, were driven to the southward, until they joined company. Here the detail becomes imperfect, until we reach the Bermudas; but to the N.E. of these isles we find the Berwick, 74, on the 19th, which had fallen, on the 17th, within the border of the hurricane from a position to the W.N.W., near the latitude of 35°. This ship had previously been one of Rear-Admii'ai Rowley's squadron ; she was pi'oceeding to England under jury -masts, and had reached to the North of the latitude of the Bei-mudns when the hurricane overtook her. On the 16th, at eleven a.m., during calm, there Avas a great swell from the eastward. On the 17th, at one p.m., she was taken aback ; wore ship and handed topsails : at three, squally, with rain ; loosed the topsails ; six to eight, wind E. by N., fresh gales. On the 18th, winds vaiiable from the eastward, E. by N. to E.b.E. ; after midnight, strong gales and heuAy squalls. At noon, by estimation, Bermudas S. 53° E. 31 leagues. — 19tli, at one a.m., weather moderate, and the shii) ijroceeded en her course. ^* On the 18th about fifty vessels were driven on shore at Bei-muda. •* j *" -^^ We have been the more particular in giving these details, from having formerly Veen misled by imperfect data. In the delineation of the " Great Hurricane," given by Colonel Reid, he first assumes a circle ha%ang a radius of about 170 miles, which gradually expands, on its N.W., North, and N.E. course, to 270, with, we may pre- sume, a diminished and proportionate momentum, on the parallel of Bermuda. The colonel observes that, on reading the logs and the various accounts of this hurricane, and comparing the different reports of the wind, it will be found that no storm yet described, more strongly than this proves the rotatory nature of hurricanes. (98.) Trinidad, June, 1831. — {No. I. on the Chart.) — It will not readily bo forgotten that, on the 23rd of June, 1831, Trinidad, in the parallel of 10^° N., experienced one of the most awiul storms of wind and rain ever remembered by the oldest inhabitant. The gale commenced at five o'clock on Thursday morning, and continued till eleven ; the wind, after shifting fi'om East, North, West, and South, finally settled at S.W., end blow without intermission until three in the afternoon. Eleven or twelve vessels were driven on shore, and several of them severely damaged. It wa.i .subsequently stated that the hurricane was felt at all the Houthcrn islands, HURRICANES, ETC. 2Sl i round ; it lightning, 1 on ehore ed. Nine- the north- its into the much hurt eastward ; it the forts, 1 4,000 and reached to mono, with frigate was the storm I of Hayti. Kay Bank, ind*69" W., V. verge of % long, (by rysails ; the and heavy be Ti-ident, :er, in great d they, too, , until they to the N.E. tn the 17th, the latitude I'ldron i she orth of the eleven a.m., one p.m., with rain ; 18th, winds gales and .— 19tli, at ig formerly Line," given dies, which re may pra- luda. The hurricane, Btorm yet s. 10 forgotten ienccd one inhabitant, till eleven ; ;d at S.W., live vessels irn islands, where the loss it occasioned was very great. Such a storm, had not happened at Granada since the year 1780 ; the devastation was extensive and dreadful ; and the loss in that colony was estimated at £80,000. Its course to Yucatan is described hereafter. (99.) Sarbadoes, August, 1631. — (JVo. IL on the Cliart.) — ^In the night following the 10th of August, or.t of the most devastating hurricanes that had ever been ex- perienced visited Barbadoes. Not a single house was left uninjured, and the greater part were levelled with the ground. On the 11th it passed over the Islands of St. Vincent and St. Lucia, extending a portion of its influence to Martinique and islands to the N.W., and to Granada on the South, but exhibiting its pnncipal violence between 1 2^° and 14° N., or tho paralleb of Barbadoes and Martinique. On the 12th it arrived on the southern coast of Porto-Rico s from the 12th to the 13th it swept over the South side of Hayti, and extended its influence as far southward as Jamaica. On the 13th it raged on the eastern portion of Cuba, sweeping in its course c er large districts. The town of Aux Cayes, m Hayti, was almost desla-oyed by its force, and that of S. lago de Cuba was very much damaged. On the 14th it was at Hav'anna, and toward the West end of Cuba. On the loth it pi-oceeded north-westward, and on the 16th and 17th it arrived on the northern shoies of the Mexican Sea, in about the 30th degree of latitude, raging simultaneously at Pensacola, Mobile, and New Orleans, where its effects were continued till the 18th. At New Oi'-^ans, on the 17th, it came on in dreadful gales, from N.E. to S.E., accompanied with <,orrents of rain. Almost all the shipping in the river were driven on shore, and very few of the smaller craft escaped total wreck. The back part of the city was completely inundated. The sugar-canes, above and below the' city, were laid flat, and the loss was enormous. The gale was felt at Natchez, 300 miles up the river; and hereabout it spent itself in heavy rains, after having occupied a period of six days in the cycloidal course fi'om Barbadoes. At most of the islands, dm'ing the hurricane, the winds in the earlier pai-t of the storm wer'e from a northern ^uai-ter, and in its later periods from a southern quarter, of the horizon ; from which it results, that the gyratory action was from right to hfty as in the storms which pass to the northward of th? great islands, and along ue western coast of the ocean, -l -spv rr ,yv'i >{»**:■. i msri The distance passed over by the storm, in its passag'e from Barbadoes to New Orleans, is equal to 2,100 nautic miles. The average rate about 14 miles an hour. Th^ details of the storm in August, 1831, as it affected Barbadoes, St. Vincent, and St. Lucia, were given in the Times newspaper of the 10th of October, in the same year. In the despatch of his Excellency ai-ance ; and early on the next morning, with the wind at North, it began to blow very fresh^ which continued increasing, accompanied with rain, untu five o'clock ; and by seven, or half-past seven, the prognostics of a hunicane appeared ; by a little after eight the harbour presented a most awful appearance, the sea ran mountains high, and broke on the South side with the '^most violence, and the vessels in the anchorage became ungovernable. In this co. tion the town was situated from half-past eight to twelve o'clock, when the wind, which had prevailed in frequent and violent g^ts, became more moderate, and before two o'clock it was comparatively calm. During the continuance of the stoi-m it rained unceasingly, but not violently, and the wind seemed to vary very little from its ordinary du-ection. (lOO.J Hurricane of 1830. — ^The storm which passed the city of New York, on the nth of Auyuat, 1830, was there, and along all the coast northward of Cape Hat- teras, considered as a north-east storm. — {See Chart, Route VI.) It appears that this commenced at the Island of St. Thomas, in the West Indies, on the night between the 12th and 13th of August. On its progress, in the afternoon of the 14th, it commenced at the Bahama Islands, and continued during the succeed- ing night, the wind almost round the compass during the existence of the storm. On the 15th, in the Florida Channel, its effects were verj' disastrous. Without the strait, in lat 26° 51', Ion. 79° 40', the gale was severe from N.N.E. to S.W. Late on the same day, off St. Aug^tin, it was equally so. At 20 miles North of St. Mary's, from eight p.m. on the loth, to two a.m. on the 16th, it was from an eastern quailer, then changed to S.W. Off Tybee and at Savanna, on the night of the Idth, it changped to N.W. at nine a.m. on the 16th, and blew till twelve. On the 18th, at Charleston, the gale was from S.E. and East, till four p.m. ; then N.E. and round to N.W. At Wilmington (N. Carol.) the storm was from the East, and veered subsequently to the West. In the vicinity of Cape Hatteras, at sea, the storm was very heavy from S.E., and shifted to N.W, Early in the morning of the 1 7th, the gale was felt severely in the Chesapeake, from the N.E. Off the capes of Vh-ginia, on the 17th, lat. 36° 20', Ion. 74° 2', « a perfect hurricane," fi-om South to S.S.E., from five a.m. to two p.m., then shifted to N.W. Off Cape May, lat. 32°, Ion. 74° 15', in the afternoon of the 17th, a heavy gale from E.N.E. Coast of New Jersey, same afternoon, heavy at N.E. Again, m lat. 39°, Ion. 73°, at E.N.E. In the same latitude, Ion. 70° 30', a " tremendous gale," com- mencing at S.S.E., and veering to North. Afternoon and evening of the 1 7th, at New York and in Long Island Sound, gale pi N.N.E. and N.E. Off Nantucket Shoals, at eight p.m., severe at N.E. by E. In the night of the 17th, off Nantucket, and in the Gulf Stream, lat 38° 15', Ion. 67° 30', " tremendous," commencing at South, and veering, with increasing severity, to S.W,, West, and N.W. Peninsula of Cape Cod, in the night between the 17th and 18th, severe at N.E. ; 18th, at Salem and Newbury, heavy gale from N.E. In lat. 39° 51', Ion. 69°, severe from S.E., suddenly shifting* to North. In lat. 41° 20', Ion. 60" 25', " tremendous hurricane," from N.N.E. . Off Sable Ishind, in the night of the 18th, lat. 43\ Ion. 591°, *' tremendous he V HURRICANES, ETC. 233 Ion. 58", a Hcvere galo shifted to gftle," from South and S.W. to West and N.W. In lat. 4i\ *om the South ; the manner of change not reported. This remarkable storm appears to have passed over the whole route above described in about six days, at an average of about 16 miles an hour ; the duration of its most violent portion, at the several points over which it passed, may be stated at from seven to twelve hours $ and the widtn of its track is supposed to have been from 150 to 200 miles. " On the- western ^art of the Atlantic Ocean, between the parallel of New York and the northern limit 6f the trade-wind, the prevailing winds, for a bonsiderable period, both previously and subsequently to the occurrence of this storm, were south- westerly, or from the southern (Quarter ; and over the whole breadth of the Atlantic, on the route frequented by ships in the European ti-ade, fresh south-western or westerly winds also prevailed at the same period, for many weeks. These facts are well established by numerous marine journals, which have been consulted in rielation to this subject. Of the vorticular or rotative character of the storm, striking evidence has been afforded by the journals of two ships, the Britannia and the Illinois, both bound fit)m America to Europe ; the particulars of which are ftiUy given in the Exposition by Mr. Redfield. (101.) In about a week after the storm last described, another occurred, wluch passed New York on the 26th and 27th of August, and which was, also, .i this cr; st, a N.E. storm, of about three days' duration. From the eastward of the Bahai as it appears to have passed northwardly between the Florida Stream and the Bf I'j.udas ; and touching the American shore near Cape Hatteras, raged with great fury i,,r about forty hours at each locality, as it swept the great central curve of ♦he coast ; and Sassing from thence, continued its course over George's Bank, ir i ^lorth-easterly irection. It was evidently of greater compass, and slower progri ss, tlian the pre- ceding stonn, as is proved by a collation of the various reports of mariners ; and its long duration, and its effects were almost equally violent. The next remarkable series of hurricanes appear to have originated in the vicinity of the Windward Islands, near the close of September, 1830, and which, passing westward of the Bermudas, on a course nearly North, assumed thence a more easterly course, toward the southern edge of the Grand Bank of Newfoundland. — {See tlte Chart, Route VII.) This storm was very disastrous. In lat. 201", Ion. 63°, it commenced, on September 22, at one p.m., and continued till half-past six p.m., from N.E. and S.W. alternately. On the same day it passed through lat. 22' 46', Ion. 65\ At night, on the 30th, in lat. 26° 7', Ion. 66 J , " very heavy," for five hours and a half. On the 1st of October it arrived at lat. 30° 38', Ion. 63'; severe at S.E., shifted to N.W. : thence it was found in lat. 33°, ion. 66 J° ; lat. 34° 9', Ion. 66° 12': lat. C j\ Ion. 68°} lat. 38°, Ion. 63°; lat. 38|°, Ion. 57°; lat. 40°, Ion. 61° ; lat. 40° 25', Ion. '-^ \>A' \ lat. 41°, Ion. 65°, and very severe. By an average estimate of rates and distances, it appeara to have pro- ceeded at the rate of about 27 miles an hour. The extensive hurricane of 1804, which swept c'. er most of the Windward Islands in the West Indies, commenced at Martinique, on the 3rd of September, reached Savanna on the 7th, Boston on the 9th, and br same a snow-storm on its airival in the interior of New Hampshire. The great ^le of 1815 commenced at St. Bartholomew's on the 11th of September, and reached Rhode Island on the morning of the 23rd, where it was awfriUy destruc- tive firom the S.E., while in the south-eastern ^urts of Mo^sachu^ets, it was then blowing at South ; at New London from East to S.E. ; and at New York from North toN.NrW. (102.) A S. E. storm, in September, 1821 — {see Chart, Track VIII.) — was expe- iouH. heavy rienced in the central parts of Connecticut, commenced blowing violently from E.S.E. i p.m. on the 3rd_of September, having been preceded by a fresh and S.E., at about six ^ wind from the southern quarter, and flying clouds. It continued blowing m heavj' 2 o 234 OBSERVATIONS ON WINDS. gusts, and with increasing fiiry, till about ten p.m., when the wind suddenly subsided. A calm or lull, of perhaps fifteen minutes' duration, ensued, but was terminated by a violent gust tram tne N.W., which continued till about eleven p.m., and then gradually abated. Much damage was sustained, and firuit-trees, com, &c., were uniformly pros- trated toward the N. W. At New York the same storm was experienced, with at least equal violence, abouiii three hours earlier than in Connecticut, but blowing from a more eastern quarter. In the noith-eastem parts of Massachusets it was experienced some hours later ; and at Providence, in Rhode Island, the storm was felt m the south-eastern^ quarter, but not severely ; as Mras, also, the case in the south-eastern parts of Connecticut. In the N.W. portions of the latter state, and the adjacent towns of Massachusets, the gale blew wi^h its chief violence from the N.W. quarter, and the trees and com were uniformly prostrated toward the S.E. At New York the gale was from N.E. to East, and commenced blowing with violence at five p.m., continued with great fiiry for three hours, and then changed to West. More damage was sustained in two hours than was ever before witnessed in tiie city, the wind increasing daring the afternoon, and at tunset waa a hurricane. At the time of low water the wharfs were overflowed, the water having risen 13 feet in an hour. Previous to setting in of the gale, the wind was from &uth to 8.E., but changed to the N.£. at the commencement of the storm, and blew with great fury till evenmg, and then shifted to the westward. ON MAKING USE OF HURRICANES. (103.) It has been proposed by Mr. Piddington to make use of these storms, by takinff advantage of the favourable wind which some portions of their circumference offer for expediting the voyage. This has also been proposed by Sir W. Reid, ^r his " Law of Storms.' Mr. Piddington has given rules for this, in the regions he has made more particularly his study — the Indian and China Seas ; but here the hurri< oanes do not appear to travel at so great a speed as those of the Atlantic. In order to benefit by the hurricaQe, several conditions are necessary ; and it need not be again insisted on, that any error or ignorance of the centre of rotation may be iifttal. Of course the first consideration is, in what part of the circumference is the ship, and in what bearing is its centre P — then, at what rate, and in what direction, is it travelling ? — and is it so violent that the ship cannot weather it P All these things must be weighed well by the mariner, before he endeavours to lay his ship r>n that tack which will appear the best to forward his voyage. Should the •siarm. be advancing in the same airection as his course, and the position of the ship be u{)ou the anterior verge, should it travel at a rate above that which he can keep up with it, it \a evident that it will pass over him, and the consequences need not be re- marked upon. Should the vessel be upon the posterior verge of the hurricane, it, vrill, if travelling at 20 or 30 miles an hour, soon leave it, and then n» advantage can follow. , . Thus, to " make use of a hurricane," several conditions arc absolutely necessary : these are — " 1. llic ship must get into the storm precii«ely where the wind blows fair for prosecution of the voyage — which is quite a matter of chance. 2. If she happen to do so, she must, to derive benefit, regiilate her speed exactly to that of the meteor. Can she do that at pleasure P There would be no difficulty in ascertaining the fact of her jprcsorvinj^ Lor station, or not, by the wind remaining sti'ady, or veer- ing J but there is a necessity that would bind her, and whicli cannot be evaded with impunity whe.i a high sea follows ; — she must carry a certain proportion of sail to prevent her from being pooped. Now tliis sail may give her a greuter velocity than the meteor at the time : hence nhe would run ahead of it. Again, the rate of the meteor may be greater than her utmost speed ? hence she would be ejected."* "NHUtiml Mngarine," 1843, p. 301. WATERSPOUTS. V, or vccr- (104.) The well-known phenomenon, called a Waterspout, which is frequently seen on the Atlantic, proceeding from black dense clouds, always appears in warm weather, generally in calms, or with little wind ; but they have been seen during a fresh gale. It has been shown, by the celebrated Dr. Franklin, and other writers, that a whirlwind on land, and a waterspout at sea, aiise tram the same gefieral causes, and may be considered as one and the same. At sea they are commonly harmless, unless shi^ happen to be immediately under them ; but if, in the progre»m the sea to land, and the contruiy. They have both a progressive as well as circular motion ; they usually appear aner calms and great heats, and mostly happen in the warmer latitudes. (105.) Marine waterspouts, therefore, are caused by the action of atmospheric currents. Malt§-Brun thus describes them : — " Underneath a dense 'iloud, tne sea became a^tated with violent commotions, the waves dart rapidly toward the centre of the agitated mass of water, on arriving at which they are dispersed into aqueous vapours, and rise whirlinfi; round, in a spiral direction, toward the cloud. This conical ascending column is met by another descending column, which leans ix)ward the water, and ^oins with it. In many cases the marine colnmn is fr<«m 50 to 80 fothoms in diameter near its base. Both columns, however, diminish towai'd the middle, where they unite ; so that here they do not extend more than 3 to 4 feet in diameter. The entire column presents itself in the shape of a hollow cylinder, or tube of glass, empty within. It glides over the sea without any^ wind being felt ; uideed, several have been seen at once following different directions. When the cloud and the marine ba»u of the waterspout move with unequal velocities, the lower cone is often seen to incline sideways, or even to bend, and finally to burst in pieces. A noise is then heard, like the noise of a cataract falling in a deep valley : lightning fre- quently issues from the ver}' bosom of the waterspout, particulai'ly when it breaks ; out no thunder is ever heard." In order to prevent the danger which a vessel would be exposed to by coming in contact Mrith these tremendous colums, it is the practice to discharge upon them a cannon-ball, which, passing through them, causes them to burst, and consequently removes all chances Injury connected with them. This phenomenon is accounted for in the following manner : — Two winds meet — a vortex ensues : any cloud which happens to lie between them is condensed into a conical form, and turned round with great velocity; this whirling motion drives from the centre of the cloud all the par- ticles contained in it ; a vacuum is thereby produced, and water, or any other body lying beneath this vacuum, is carried into it upon the usual and well-known principle. The cannon-ball, breaking tliis cylinder, whion is always partly hollow, causes it to full to pieces, in the same manner as a touch upon the surface or a bubble reduces the resplendent mass to a di-op of coiumon water. (106.) The following description of a Waterspout, seen during a fresh gale upon the coast of North America, was written by the late Mr. Murdo Downio. " Upon the forenoon of the Uth of October, 1 705, while cruising in his Miyesty's ^liips Jteaolution, of 74 gunii (thou Injaring the iiiig af the late Auiaiml Murray), in ron'ipany with H.M.S. AJHca, of (H guns, comnumded by the late Admiral, then Captain, Home, in lat. 32 , and long. 00|* W., having the wind at N.N.W. blowing a 236 WATERSPOUTS, fresh gale, and the ship Bteering hy the wind East for the Itilandti of Benuudas, W0 were surprised with a waterspout/foimed in an Instant, directly to leeward, at about 2 miles, or little more, distant. Both the j^fiiioa and we fired several 18-pound shot at it, which fell a little shoi-t ; and, although some of the shot fell very near, yet thev had no visible effect upon it. Its appearance was that of a long slender pillar, with the upper end spreadins into a lar^ dense cloud, of which it seemed to form a pait, and the lower end reached to withm about 20 or 30 feet of the sea, where it was ob* Bcured from the sight W tiie water's being violently thrown up and agitated, so as to resemble a number of rountains or water-engines playing perpendicmarl^ round the lower end of the spout. The pillar became more transpai-ent in proportion as it de- or«ued in size from the cloud downward, until at the lower end, where it was almost perfectly so ; and a small column, of an equal diameter, and more transparent than the rest, appeared up through the middle, so that about the lower end it resembled an emp^ glass tube m appeaitince; from thence the transparent column in the middle became gi-adually obscured, the higher up, by the opacity of the outside, until it alto- gether msappeai-ed near the cloud. The spout appeared at its full size, or nearly so, when first seen, and began to decrease shortly ancr, and tui-ning gradually smaller, it in a short time vanished in a slight shower. " We were too intently gazing at this extraordinary phenomenon to mark the exact time it lasted, but supposed it to continue ten or tiileen minutes ; and its distance from the ship ^-as pretty accm-ately asceiiaincd by the 8hot fired at it nearly reach- ing ; but what appeared most remarkable Avas, that, although the wind blew so strong a gale, that the ohip could carry only reefed topsails (from which the velocity of the wind cannot be estimated at less than 30 or 40 miles an hour), yet the water- s^raut seemed to move but ver^ little fi'om the place where it was first seen. The ship was g^ing at the rate of ok miles an hour, and increasing her .distance from the spout ; yet, after continuing the above-mentioned time, it was considerably within the verge of the visible horizoii, as Kcen from the quaiier-deck, when it vanished (as upon the quarter-deck the eye was elevated 28 feet above the sui-fuee of the sea, the horizon would therefore be seen about 6 miles distant) : now, allo>ving the ship to have in- creased her distance from the spot half a mile during its continuance, and that it vanished a mile within the verge of the visible hoiizon, which, together with 2 miles it was difetant when first seen, will make in all 31 miles, which, taken ft-om 6 miles (the distance of the visible horizon), leaven 2j miles for th(.- spout to move in ten minutes ; whereas the wind must have gone at least 5 mile; '!> that time, and conse- quently 2| miles faster than the waterapout. Indeed it is very probable the water- spout did not move so much, in proportion to the wind, as the aoove calculation gives the least difierence between their motions that could have been allowed from the ob- 8er\'ations : the intention of this calculation being principally to prove that the water- spout in some measure rcristcd the force of the wind. " I have always observed, that waterspouts, lightning, and other electrical phe- nomena, are far less freoucnt toward the middle of the ocean than they are upon the land, or near it ; and wncn they happen upon the sea, the cloud that contains them is generally obt.evvcd to liuvc come from on the land ; from which reason we find that electrical phenomena arc more frequent, a. id are found to reach to a greater distance, upon the sea borderini; he East coast of North America, than upon that bordering the West coast of Euiupo ; because of the prevailing westerly winds cari'ying tJie clouds charged with electric fiuid off the land upon the sea near the American coast; whereas upon the Euroi)ean coast these winds confine the clouds upon the land. It is also a known fnct, that within the limits of the N.E. trnde-winds, and hiilf-way be- tween the Cape Verde and Windward West India Islands, more cspccinllv in the latitude of these islands, scarcely any of these electrical ap]K>uraiicos ever iiappeii ; whereas upon the shores of Africa and America, in tlie same climate, they frequently ruge with great lury." (108.) DetcripHon of Jfatempouta by the late Mr. Qeorge Muxwell.— There can be no doiiht that watcrpouts have, in most eases, been accompanied with electrical phe- noinoiia: and it is cmiHlly foilain that the Bpiirii und ascending motion of the water has been produced oy a gyratory movement in the air, arising from the meeting of WATERSPOUTS. 237 two opposite winds. Mr. Maxwell bad opportimities, during several voyages to th« Cong^, of frequently witnessing thb interesting phenomenon ; and in a drawing, from which the subjoinea Agtare has been made, he has represented the different states of a waterspout, as they most commonly occur. At their first formation, Mr. Maxwell says, they appear as nt A, where the black cloud drops from a level surface into a conical form, Dcfore the disturbance at the surface of the sea, as showni at J), is observed. The effect produced at 1) is like that of a smoking furnace. The black conical cloud now continues to descend, as shown at B, till it alm}8t reaches the sm-fuce of the sea, and the smokc-likc appearance rises higher and higher, till it forms an union with the cloud from which the spout a])pcars to be suspended. lu this condition it is said to put on its most ten'iflo appearance to the mariners who have the misfortune to be in its neighbourhood. Wncn the spot begins to disperse, it assumes the appearance shown at C. The black cloud geuerallv draws itself up iu a ragged lorm, but leaves a thin ti'ans- parent tube, U E, wnich reaches the woter, where the smokc-likn commotion still prevails. Mr. Maxwell observed, at this time, in the upper part of the tube, a vciy curious motion. This singular fact, of the existence of a transparent tube, confirms a description, by Mr. Alexander Stewart, of waterspouts which he saw in the Mediterranean, in 1701. " It was obseiTuble of all of them, but chiefly of the large pillar, that toward the end it bei/an to appear like a hollow canal, only block in the oorders, but white in the middle ; and though at first it was altogether black and opaque, yet one could \t:\y (liiitinvfli/ i>erceh'e the Hen-wafer to fti/ up along the middle of this 'itnal as smoko (hen lip a chimney, and that with gi'cat wwit'tncsH, and a very i)orceptible motion j and then, 8osition that it was transported from the deserts of Africa." — This remark accords with a number of others on the sand from the Sahara or Desert, which is carried by th« wind over the Atlantic, to an almost incredible distance from the western coast.* (108.) To the preceding descripidons we now annex another, as given by the Honourable Captain Napier, II.N., F.R.S.E., in 1814. " On the 6th of September, 181^, in lat. 3C° 47' N., and Ions. 62° 40' W.,t at half- past one p.m., the wind being variable between W.N. W. and N.N.E., the tmip steer- ing S.F., an extraordinary sort of whirlwind was observed to form aboTit 3 cables' length from the starboard bow of H.M.S. Erne. It carried the water up along with it in a cylindrical form, in diameter, to appearance, like that of a water-batt, gradually rising in height, increasing in bulk, advancing in a southerly direction, and, when at the distance of a mile frpm the ship, it -continued stationary, for sevei-al minutes, boil- ing and foaming at the base, dischar^njf an immeu^ column of water, with a rushing or hissing noise, into the overhanging clouds ; turning itself with a qmck spiru motion, constantly bending and straightening, according as it was affected by the variable winds, wnich now prevailed from all points of the compass. It next i-etnmed to the northward, in direct opposition to the then prevailing wind, and right upon the ship's starboard beam, whose com'se was altered to East, in hopes of letting it pass astern. Its approach, however, was so rapid, that we were obliged to resort to the usual expedient of a broadside, foir the purpose of avertinjj any danger that might be apprehended ; when, after firing several snots, and one, m particuW, having passed right through it, at the distance of one-third from its base, it appeared for a minute as if cut horizontally in two parts, the divisions waving to and fro in different direc- tions, as agitated by opposite winds, till they again joined for a time, and at last dissipated in an immense dark cloud or shower of rain. " The near edge showered in large heavy dixjps on the ship's deck, until the cloud was quite exhausted. " At the time of its being separated by the effect of the shot, or more probably by the agitation occasioned in the air by the discLnrge of several guns, its base was con- siderably within half a mile of the snip, covering a portion of ute surfiuw of the water at least half a fbrlong, or 300 feet m diameter, m>m one extreme circumference of ebullition to the other ; and the neck of the cloud into which it discharged itself appeared to have an altitude of 40° of the quadrant, while the cloud itself extended overhead, and all around, to a very considerable distance. *' Allowing, then, from the ship, a base of little more than one-tliird of a nautic mile, say 2,050 feet, and an angle of 40° to the top of the neck, we shall then have, for the perpendicular height of the spout, about 1 ,720 feet, or very neai'ly one-third of a statute mi l'^ A little before it burst, two other waterspouts, of an infeiior sLse, were obsei ved r' the southward, but their continuance was of short duration. " When danger was no longer to be apprehended, I observed the brometer, and found it at 30*1 oiclies, with the surface of the mercury very convex ; an appearance whiuh it had net . Bunicd when at the same height at noon, about two hours before ; the thermometer stood at 82', having risen 1° since that time. " During the continuance of the watcrapout, and the subsequent rain, which might be a little more than half an hour, the wind blew from all ][)omt« of the compass ut • Colonel Reid has givon, in his " Lawo/ Btormn," a cliaptor (xl.) on " Wntorspouts and the Hmiillor Whirlwinds," with sovonil beautiful flgures of the sumo, which have been ro- poiitt'd in the " N;iuticJil Majj'iz t About a leagues S.£. from the Dermudus. — lu. THE TIDES. 980 different times, geneially shiftiiig s' opposite points, never longer than a fresh breeze for a moment, but in most instances quite light. It was unattended with any thundMr or lightning, and the water that fell from the cloud was perfectly fresh. " Having witnessed this extraordinary phenomenon, I endeavoored to ascertain itii cause.* " Although this phenomenon was rather terrific in (ippearance, yet I am not ndinod to think it would have been attended with any serious calamity to the ship, had even the whole quantity fallen on board, allowing the loftier saib to have been taken in, the hatches battened down, and scuppers open. The cylinder or spout coming in contaet wf.th the masts and rigging, would naturally be destroyed ; and the air rash- ing in, ins'Antaneously, to restore the equilibrium, the torrent would thus be checked in its fall to the mere weight or force of a tropical descent. I Imve heard many reports of ravages committed by these aqueous meteors, but never yet met a person who had actually witnessed or ezperienoed any such distressing efiects." „ n.--OF THE TIDES. il the cloud (109.) As introductory to a General Table of the Tides, we shall give a few passages from M. MaUi-Brun, explanatory of the subject ; and also the results of the recent extensive observations and profound researches of Professor Whewell and Sir John Lubbock. The water of the sea yields to the slightest impression ; and, although its density and weight combine to retain it in a constant equilibrium, it is agitated to a certain depth by rapid and varied motions, 'iliese motions may be classed according to the maimer in which the particles move, and according to the nature of the agento which cause the motion. Three kinds of motion may be distinguished in the sea, considered in reference to their causes. The Tides are siderral motions, because they depend upon the influence of the heavenly bodies. General Currents, and the greatest number of Particular Currents, have their causes in the very element that is agitated by them ; tiiese, then, are motions of the sea itself. The third kind comprehends atmospheric motions, pro- duced by the action of the winds. The Tides are reeular and periodical oscillations, which the seas undergo fix>m the attraction of the celestial bodies, principally those of the moon nnd sun. (110.) Action of the Moon. — Let us first consider the sinni: action of the moon upon the sea ; "supposing ihii luminary to be in the plane ol the Equator. It is evident that, if the moon exerted upon all the particles of the sea an equal attraction, and parallel to the earth's centre of gravity, the entire system of the globe, and of the waters which covrr it, would ho mfluenced by a common motion, and their rela- tive equilibrium would not suffer any ^-hange. The equilibrium is disturbed only by the difference between the attraction.i which the moon exerts, and the inequality of tlicir directions. Some parts of the globe are are di 'thj attracted by tneiT>'>onj others only obliqutsly. The former are in conjunction ^^itll the moon; anu ine drawn from the ceiitro of the two j^Janets would pass through their zcniti. The latter »»»*e in quadrature virith the moon — that is to say, a line drawn from the tcrres- t- "ai centre to their zenith would make an angle of 90" with the line which co)inects the centres of the two planetH. The attracting force acting obliquely is decompoHcd by the obliquity of its angle of incidence : thus the parts in conjunction being more • Bee " Edinburgh Phil. Joumal," vol. vi. p. 97. "-iijp^" Jim*.'!' 240 THE TIDES. *:.■• Nvrongly attracted tlion ttiose i>; quadrature, the weight of their pai-ticles ia duniniiihed. It is necessary, then, to there Iv. ing an equilibrium in all pai*ts of the sea, that the water; shoiv I rise under the moon, in order that the excess of weight of the particles in qu'td; ut:u3, ubove those in conjunction, may be compensated by the greater height of the J. 'ex. The waters, however, lise, not onb" on the side where the attisv-t* ig' pJoiut is, but» also, on the opposite side ; because, if the planet attract the supt dor watf^i-s tJiorethnn it attracts the centre of the e£ vtli, it also attracts this centre riAore tlum it atuact* U\o inferior waters in the opposite hemisphere. These waters vDl ^Lfr-. approach lesji toward the attracting planet, tUnn the centi'e of the earth apptcuche; ti it. They ^vjl remain as far off, from a>id behind the centre, as the siinerior wt'tej-s au'-.^acu fiwn u. on the side of the moon. Two piomontories, or eminences of water, will therefore be foi jed by the action of the moon spon the earth; — one o^ the side t^w ird the iuoon ; tr.e other on the side opposite to it ; which gives the sen sia appcjui' ue of an elongated spheroid, w-inso great axis will pass through the centre of the ir.<,oa and of the earth. It is hiffh tide Tiaiior the moon and in the opposite point at 180 dtan-es of distance 5 coiis .'.jue .tlv, in the two intermediate points, or at 90 degrees of ai>.!unco Ji-ora the moon, tiic* Jiie will be lotc. Til earth, H its rotatoi v motion, siiccessively presents to the nv'.>on, in t .e spact'^ cif t-w enty-four U(i.irflj all ii • meridians, which, consequerifely, are fou'iO. by turns, and at an iiiten&i • J^iy. hiurs-, sometimes uader under the moon, and Hometimes at a dis- tunes ol 90 de, v't'.^ ff Ti it; hMce it follows that, duiing the time which passes between the depar*ujre ;i' thf; mo<»ri from one meridian, and its return to the same tneiiiliur., that is. Ir '^ •: apivce af a lunar day, which exceeds the solar day by about fllty minvfcK and a Ji&'l', the waters of the sea will ebb t\vice, and flow twice, in every part of ;!)c o?rth. a;though in mannei almost insensible in those places which are '.'istant irom tht pulk or orbit of tho moon. ■ . -.i .1 > (111.) Action of the Sun. — If we now imagine the sun to l)e in the plane of the Equator, it iw evidejit that, as its action is similar to that of the moon, it snould excite in the ov 'vu an agitation similar to the lunar tides. Thus the sea would ebb twice and flow iv, ire during a solar dav 1 but, on account of the in\mei\ne distance from the sun, those solar tides \viU be much smaller than those which result from the action of the moon. Dn account of the inequality ^vhich exists between the solar and lunar days, the (^rtioii of the sun will sometimes change the position of the lunar tides, and at other i-mes will unite its influence with that of the moon. In the syzigies, or cornunctions, tho action of the moon concurs with that of the sun to raise the waters, llxis is the rc-ason why the highest tides happen at new and ftiU moon ; or when the moon is in its first or third quarters. In the quadi-atures, the waters of the sea are depressed by the action of the sun, at the same point where the action of the moon raiuf's them, and n»ciprocally. Tims the tides of the quadratures ought to be letis. The height of the tidal wave produced by the moon is as that produced by the sirn as 100 to 33, -vfhen combined, of course, they produce the sprngtide, as above statxi; opposed, they make neaps, the range of them being as 138 to 02, or nearly as 7 to 3. Newton (from the Severn tides) made it 4*48 to 1, which is far too large. Laplace fiom the Brest obsei'vations, makes it 2"90 to 1, and Sir John Lubbock and Dr. Whe well about 2-66 to 1 . Of course, these relations are very much controlled in action by the oonflgm-ation of the coast or channel. (112/) What we have already explained regards the positicv- ''f he sun and moon in the Eauator. Let us now eonsiaer these he&venly bodies i^ > ir various declina- tions, ana we shall see the elevation vary in the inverse rati* ' e cube of the dis- tance of the water. Without entering into li Jills, which would require ii 'i'...*' tical demonstrations, we shall remark omy, tl; • '.'iS proximitv of the sun ai;;i ax.a-i- 'jcems to be the cause to which we must relt» tne extraordinary eqiunoct?..-.! '"»*"«, which happen most frequently ; tho one before the vernal equinox, and the ot't^ • 'V?" the autumnal; that diminuhccl. a, that the he particles later height inet is, but' 3 siorethnn ata-iicts thn preach Jes;. ' They^vjl' ncB from it he action of on the side Toid, wl'oso is high tide i!isi/.iue .tlv, ion, tiio }^iae !i t'.e spac* T turns, and les at a dis- hich passes the samo ly by about ce, in every i which are lane of the lould excite 1 ebb twice ze from the ^e action of ,r days, the lid at other injunctions, l^his is the moon is in 'pressed by 1 them, and by the sirn Dvo stat aI ; as 7 to 3. Laplace Dr. Whe iu action and moon us declina- of the dis- nstrationH, 3 the cause jp6n uiGsb nnal', that THE TIDES. 241 is, both of them at the time when tho sun, passing through the meridional signs, is nearest us. But this does not happf a every year, because there are sometimes varia* tions produced by the situation of .t ae orbit of the moon, and by the distance of the syzigies from the equinoxes. (113.) This, then, is the ^nervi theory of the tides, and from these obser\*ations their general laws may be inferred; but it has been resented for later times to pursue the inquiry into detail, and to uevelop the minor effects which modify, and in some places totally change, the character of the tides. It is chiefly to the Itcv. Dr. Wlie- well, now !M!a6ter of Trinity College, Cambridge, and to Sir John Lubboek, that our present knowledge of the tide laws is owing, and from their observations we will give some extracts. (114.) In the Rev. Dr. Whewell's papers on the subject of the Tides, he com- mcnoes : — " Ever since the time of Newton, Ws explanation of the general phe- nomena of the tides, by means of the action of the moon and the sun, has been assented to by all philosophers who have given their attention to the subject. But, even up^ to the prent day, this g:eneral explanation has not been pursued into its results in detail, so as to show its bearing on the special phenomena of particular places, — to connect the actual tides of all the different parts of the world, — and to account for their seeming anomalies. With regard to this alone, of all the conse- quences of the law of universal gravitation, the task of bringing the developed theory into comparison with multiplied and extensive observation is still incomplete ; we might say, is still to be beg^n."* (116.) The Ttdal Wave. — The tidal wave is not owing to the transfer of the body of water, which would be a current, but to an elevation of its surface. This motion is, OS readily conceived, compatible with immense velocity ; and it may be taken as a iTile, that the broader the wave, the greater will be its velocity. If the earth were in equilibrium, and its surface entirely covered with water, and under the influence of the moon's attraction, it would assume the form of an ellipsoid, having the semi- axis directed towards the moon longer by about 58 inches than that transvci'se to it ; that is, the water would become higher by that amomit. This is merely adduced to show what may be the amount of tne luni-tic" considerations. -tidal wave, without entering into any other (116.) Velocity of the Tidal Wave. — As the whole of the tidal wave must circulate around the globe in twenty-four hours nearly, the velocity must be very great ; but it is greatly modified. In the middle of the Atlantic it would appear to travel at the rate of about 700 miles an hour, but on the coast it is widely different ; hence its velocity along the eastern coast of England varies from 3d miles to 160 miles per hour. In the open ocean, where nothing intervenes to obstniet the couree of the tidal wave, it traveiii proLubly with regularity ; and it may be presumed that its height is alao inconsiderable. But when tiiis wave, from an open ocean, approaches a narroMi channel, such as the Briscul or English Channel — from being hemmed in, as it were, it forms a tide-current. Now, along the centre of such a channel the tidal wave would travel with much greater speed than on the sides. Hence the distances at which the hour-marks representing hi^h woter will be wide apaii, in the centre, and transverse to its general direction ; while, on the shores, the direction of the wave would be altered, and it will ap} ronch parallel to the sliore ; hence the hour-marks will be close togciher, eumI pi>v"l|pl to '.. ; general direction of the main tide-current. tf ' .I'ttve, advmcing th;uugL the contracting channel, towards the end iji great height, _;id, as at Bristcl, and in the Bay of Fundy, sometimes The becoT I rise o the enormonslieight of fiO or 7^' fee' ruur lip a shelving beach. The variation in the height of the tide (as is found to be tiio case in some |)arts of just in the same manner that the surf * * El say Inwards a First. Approximation to a Maji of CotiJul Linos ;' PliiioTOphitMl Transai'tious ol' tho IJoviil Society, liua, p. 147. 2 H 2ia THE TIDES. the coast of France), between places near each other, and having high water at the same time, is to be accounted for by the convex form of the tidal wave. ^ In some parts of the world, as in Australia, Kamtschat^ &c., the tides offer very singular anomalies. At Adelaide, in South Australia, it ia high water only onoe in the twenty-four hours, and that during the uight. This arises from what are called interference, whereby two distinct sets of tidal waves, in their combination, produce appare-^t *est.* (il7.) One of the most important circumstances of this subject is, that, in an open channel, ike Jhod current (the current which runs till high yrater) will continue run- ning for three hours afterwards, or till half ebb: and the ebb current, which then begins, will run after low water till half flood. The time of slack water is interme- diat* between the times of high water and low water. In proportion as the channel is olwtructed at the further eud, the flood current runs for a shorter time after flood ; and in a closed creek, the flood current ends at high water.f ^ Another error to correct is this : — ** That the time of the change of ciirrent, or the time of alack water, as it may be termed, never coincides with the time of high water, except close in-shore, and within its influence i the interval is generally consider- able. Great confusion has arisen from these two times not being properly distin- guishdd."— ' Phil. Trans.,' 1833, p. 162. (118.) . The Establishment of the Port. — The vulgar establishment of the poii is the interval of time by which the time of high water fo' .ows the moon's transit on the day of the new and fill moon.' This is, corrected, the mean value of the interval, freed from the semi-menstrual inequality. Its value at the London Docks is one hour twenty-six minutes, by the mean of all the observations. — * Phil. Trans.,' 134, p. 19. The Corrected Establishment.— Vhe mean luni-tidal interval, or corrected esta- blishment of each place, differs from the vulgar establishment, or time of high water for new and full moon ; for the time of high water at syzig^ is affected by the semi- menstrual inequality belonging to the moon's position one or two day's earlier, and is therefore later by about thmy minutes than the mean interval would give it.^ (119.) The Semi-monthlp Inemiality. — The interval of tide and moon's transit is affected by a considerable inequality, which goes through its period twice in the spacb of one month ; it may he considered as dei)endin^ upon the moon's distance from the sun in right ascension, or, which is the same thing, on the solar time of the moon's transit. The difference of the greatest and least intervals at London is one hour twenty-eight minutes.§ (120.) The Age of the Tide. — The tide does not depend upon iLe passage of the moon upon that particular day or hour, but from some previous tr&nsit ; hence the tide is observed to take place at London at two o'clock on the days of new and fuU moon ; therefore, as the tide of London is found to be determined by the position of the sun and moon upon two days and a half before it occurs, one hour twenty-ciix minutes is the corrected establishment for London, as stated above.^ (121.) Difference of the Two Diurnal Tides. — It has been remarked in various places by separate observers, that the evening tide is higher than the morning tide in one part of the year, and lower at another. This is thus explained by Newton. From the vernal to the autumnal equinox, the sun has North declination ; and as the moon's orbit is never much inclined to the sun's, a line drawn from the earth's centre to the moon would meet the earth's surface, on the side towards the sun, in North latitude. Now, such a line is the axis of the tide-spheroidt supposing the tide to be always under the moon ; and the tide taking place when the moon in the meridian is higher, as the place is nearer to the vertices or pf^ints where the axis of the tide-spheroid meets the earth's surface. Hence, in this case, the tides which occcir on the side of * " Phil. Trans. " 18S3 •». 154. X '< PhU. Trans." (WheweU)7i836, p. 292. % " Phil. TrttUH.," 1831, p. 163. f "PhU. Trans.," ISi^'.p. 19. ln.wmi^'''' THE TIDEB. the earth next the sun, or the day tides, would be larger tar a place in North latitude than the tides on the o^KNUte nide. For a similar reason^ the ni^t tides would be higher in winter. (122.^ Height of Mean Water. — The mean between high and low water is found to be eonstant and permanent, however much may be the diflbrence of his^ and low water. It has been found, from a great number of observations on theBonth coast of England, not to vary more than 2 or 3 inches ; therefore all heights ought to be referrM to the mean level of the sea, instead of the vague and uncertain data of high or low watwr.* The refined surveying operations which have of late been completed have demon- strated one singular &ct, which could only have been elicited in the laborious and exact processes carried on during the Ordnance Survey. It is, that the mean level of the sea, as we assume it, is not a level, from whatever cause it may arise, and it is diffi> cult to assiffn one. It is found that the mean level of the sea around Lneland is lower on the South than it is on the North coast. Taking Courtown in Wicklow as the standard — a spot remarkable as the node or axis ot the great tidal wave of the St. Oeowe's Channel, and when there is Utile w no rise or fall, that at Ballycastle on the North, the mean sea level is higher by 0-881 foot, and lower on the South at Castle Townsend by 0*938 foot than it does at Courtown. Thus the mean level is nearly 1 foot 10 inches higher on the North than it is on the South of Ireland. Of course this fact has no bcMtring upon the seaman's application of tidal phenomena, but is curious. (123.) It has been found that a low barometer causes a higher tide and the reverse. This element, in the disturbance of the regular tides, the effects of atmospheric pressure, has been estim.ated by different observers, and its amount has been ascer- tained with considerable accuracy. Thus, at Liverpool, there is a difference in the Itetffht of high water of 10-1 inches for a variation of 0.91 in the barometer ; and at London it has been calculated by Mr. Dession that the water rises 6*3 inches for -90 depression of the barometer. M. Dausi^ has ascertained that, at Brest, the ocean rises *223 metre, or 8*78 inches, for a depression of '0158 metre, or '61:2 inoh in the barometer.-f These results are nearly identical with those ascertained oy Sir James Ross in thd Arctic regions in 1848 by means of the steady level of the wint^'- jcc. These refinements in tidal calculations are, perhaps, of little value for the ^ -ol mariner when at sea; they may be useAil in entering a doili.', but they ar\ jt the utmost service in genemlising the phenomena cf the tides, upon which so uttle, it may be said, is known that may oe applied. (124.) The foregoing are the pnnripal effects of tlie causes which produce the tides, in reference to their rise and fall. There is another branch of the subject, however, which is of great importance to the navigator ; that is, the currents formed by the alternate elevation and depression of the ocean. As before mentioned, in the open sea it may be considered that there is no tidal current, and that the tidal wave is pro- pagated without any actual displacement in the particles of the water. But wnen this wave approaches the coast, the case is widely different, and the wave must neces- sarily form a current, sometimes flowing in one direction, and at others in the opposite one. This variation in the progress of the flood and ebb-tide wuve i. ' •^•y with every locality, and is influenced by the particular conflguration of the > , *..i) xc, by which it passes. The question of the form and transmission of waves is so comph- cated, and involving mathematical analysis of so high an order, that it cannot be use- fully dwelt on here. Upon the direction in which the great tidal wave is pntpagated, we at present have mach to learn. It has been supposed by Sir J. Lubbock, that it travels from the Cape of Good Hope to Gibraltar in twelve hours ; from Gibraltar to Edinburj^h in about twelvf !r -.rs; and from Edinburgh to London in about twelve hours,^ which is in accords ?ith Bernouilli's theory. Passing north-eastward from the South * " rhil. Trans.," 1839, p. 164. t " PhU. Trans.," 1836, pp. 220, 221 ; and " Conn. deS Terns.," 1834. t " Phil. Trans,," 1836, p. 218. 244 THE TIDES. Atlantic, it strikes the south-weet shores of Great Bntain and Ireland, and becomr^ divided by these lands ; one portion of the ^at wave passes northward to tha west of Ireland, a portion of it enters by the North Channel, and meets a large portion from the south which has passed up the St. George's Channel ; another passes up the English Channel passing on to the North Sea along the Dutch and German coasts, and with another portion of the western branch which enters the North Sea between Norway and Scotland, oau^: • r" "Motion of tides which is still involved in some obscurity, but which is i,«.vi' v U-i. i c^twhere; the remainder passes north-eastward along the Norway cr ou t<' ♦' 'c Tolar basin. Along the American coast the great wave passes from soutL to uurtn, making high water at a later hour continually, and entering the varioa: bays and outlets in the same manner. It may at once be men- tioned mat in low latitudes the rise and fall of the tide is very inconsiderable, and therefore comparatively unimportant. (125.) In 1834, from the recommendation of the Rev. Professor Whewell, a series of tide observations were made, during r< foi .' > m the month of June, at the coast-guard stations in Gi'eat Britain and Ireland -, and in tiie following year a much much more extensive series was taken simultaneously between the 8th and 28th of June. " Thu chain of places of observation extended from the mouth of the Mis- sissippi rr)\]nd the Kays of Florida, along the coast of North America, as far as Nova Scotia ; find from the Straits of Gibraltar along the shores of Europe, to the Noiih Cape of .-Torway. The number of places ot observation was twenty-eight in America, wven in Spain, seven in Portugal, sixteen in France, five in Belgium, eight'ien in the Netherlands, twenty-four in Denmark, and twenty-four in Norway ; and cbservations were made by the crast-guard of this country at 318 places in Eng- land and Scotland, and at 219 places in Ireland." This large niunber of observations was also undertaken at the instigation of Professor Whewell, and their reduction was made by Mr. Drsdou and assistants, under his directions. The details and results are given in the *' Philosophical Transactions," 1836, p. 289, et sev. These observati ma have given ns a far greater insight into the natu'^ of the tidal progress than was had heretofore. A still more refined series was cft- -jd on for the English Channel by Adm. Beechey as heretofore shown. (126.) In the enruing tide table for the North Atlantic the vulgar establishment (118) is given as the tidal hour at full and change, except in some cases, which are noticed as being the corrected establishment of the pori. These figures are taken chiefly from the Government Nautical Surveys and the special observations which have been made in various places. They are given, also, in the Admiralty Tide Tables for 1860. The height of the tide is lirre quoted as the rauffe — that is, the difference of level between high and low v\ter l)»)tH as sprin|,'^> and neaps; so that the figures giving neaps do not represent : •■ • amoir above tl low watcv spring tides, but the higher level generally of one-fouiih of the difference of range. Attached to the table are some brief remarks on peculiarities of the tidal phe- nomena, in the form of notcf. , u,^. .|,._,. K ' ' ■■'■- ■*":* /^ ;fV.1fti,?.ii'i If • ■■i f^^.^ n tii'f I becomes 1 ths west ^e portion ies up the an coasts, 1 between I in some -eastward the great lally, and e be men- ■able, and 11, a series le, at the ar a much d 28th of r theMis- ir as Nova the Noiih '-eight in Belgium, Norway ; Bs in Eng- iservationa iction was nd results f the tidal on for the ibliHhment which are are taken ons which alty Tide of level res giving the higher tidal phe- TIDL TABLE. ITte IKgurea in Sraeketa (1.) refer to the tubjomed Notes. Place. High Water, Full and Change. Range. Sps. Nps. England — Thames and South Coast. London Bridge (1.) London Docks Gravesend Nore Margate KaniHgate Deal Dover (2.) Folkstone Dungeness Rye Bay Hjostings Beachy Head Newhaven Shoreham Littleha: i.ion Selsea " i ...... Portsmouth Dock Yard .^O'ithampton (3.) . West (* es Hm-st, aber . . . Needles Point . . . Christchurch . . . Poole , Portland Break- water Dridport Exmouth Torbay Dartmouth .... Devonport Dock Yard Plymouth Break- water Fowcy ' Falmouth Lizard I'cnzancc Scillv InltS .... h. m. ft. 2 7 19^ 1 67 m 1 10 m 12 30 16^ 11 40 15J 11 44 1-. 11 16 ) 11 12 18| 11 7 20 10 45 213 11 20 22 10 63 24 11 20 20 11 51 20 11 34 18 11 86 16 11 46 16| 11 41 10 30 12 46 10 46 10 12 9 46 9 ,0 11 30 9 10 12 45 7 1 6 6 6 21 6 6 1« 5 43 5 37 5 14 1 57 J 4 ;}(i 12J 13 12| 7| n 6 6J 6f m 13J 14 16i 151 15 16 141 16 '20 ft. 141 111 101 9 11 13 17 121 13 10 10 10 n 81 61 6i 4 3 2 6i n n n 8 7 8 10 Place. High Water, Full and Change Range. Sps. Nps* England and Wales, h. St. Ives 4 Padstow 6 Lundy Island (4.) . . 6 Barnstaple (Bar) . . 5 Bideford 6 llfracombe 6 Bridgewater Bar . , 6 Portishead . . . i . . 7 Bristol (King Road) 6 Chepstow 7 Newport 7 Cardiff 6 Swansea 6 Llanelly Bar . 6 Tenby 6 Milford Haven (en- trance) Pembroke Dk. Yard Cardigan (6.) . . . / Abeiystwyth .... Bardscy Island .... Caernarvon Holyhead Beaumaris Chester Liverpool Formby Point Ribble Lighthouse Fleetwood West Coast. Lancaster Poulton-lc-Sands . . Piel Harbour (Pier) Whitehaven Workington Maryport Southerncss Annan Foot Port Carlisle 5 6 7 7 7 9 10 10 10 11 10 10 11 II 11 11 11 11 U 11 11 11 12 Isle of Man. Douglus I 11 12 Ramsey i 11 15 m. ft. 44 21 13 20| 15 27 30 19 7 16 42 27i 50 36 16 *n 56 44 30 60? 10? 24? 69 38 66 30 16 28 27 62 22 12 ■a 21 1 jt 62 ill 22 12 21 1 14 31 13* 40 15 33 13f 11 16 32 21} 30 26 23 26 36 28 61 24 11 27 12 261 16 81 26 27i 6 28 14 231 4 20 ;j 18 20 28 66 20 10 20? 201 191 ft. 9| 12| 13 9 8 14i 18 21J 22 21 16 14 13 10 n H iij 14| 10 16 141 16 14 12J 10 8 8 8? 121 ■*■ ■:*; :*' 246 TIDE TABLE. Place. Feel Calf Sound ... Port, St. Mary. Castletown . . . High Water, Fall and Change. h. m. 11 8 11 17 11 10 11 10 Range. Sps. ft. m m 20 20 Npe. SeoOand, Wnt CoatL Kircudbright .... Troon Fort Patrick Loch Ryan Campbcllton Ayr .'. ArdroDBan Largs Greenock Port Glasgow .... Dumbarton Glasgow Burnt Isles, Kylet of Bute Ardrishaig, Loch Fvne Gigna Sound . . Jura, E. Coast . . Easdale Sound . . Crinan . Loch Aline .... Oban LochEil Tobermory, Mull Portree, L of Skye Kyle Akin Ullapool, Loch Broom Poolewe, Loch Ewe Bemeray, Island of Harris Stomoway Cape Wrath Thurso Stroma, 8. side .... Swona,E. side „ W. side . . Great Skerry, East side 11 10 11 fiO 11 10 11 12 11 45 11 50 11 45 11 50 8 18 40 1 25 11 50 11 2 4 5 4 5 5 5 5 53 22 56 25 49 33 45 15 36 6 32 6 16 6 40 6 20 6 11 6 46 7 30 8 28 9 47 10 24 9 35 11 4 Orkneys. 23 10 16 11 8^ 8f 10 10 n 9 9 2 10 9 4 31 10-12 6 13| 12 13 13 15 15 14J 14J 13 13 15i 14! 9i Stromness . . Kirkw.-ill , Deer Sound 9 10 10 9 10 10 30 10 1 ft. 9 9i 12 12 5 9 4 5 6 H 6 1 i' 7 5 5i n 5 6! 6 4 o Place. Widewall . Otterswick High Water, Full and Change. h. m. 9 3 9 13 Range. Sps. ft. 10 11 Nps. ft. Shetland lakt. Balta Lerwick ...... Scalloway Sumburgn Head Fair Isle £ 45 6 10 30 6 9 30 5| 9 45 11 5 . ,..-.':: 5 6* 3 2 3* Scotland, JEa»t Coast. Dnncansby Ness .. Wick Cromarty Inverness Peterhead Aberdeen Montrose Arbroath Tay Bar Dundee Leith Dunbar 10 14 10 11 22 n 11 56 14 12 18 12 34 m 1 12 1 25 13 1 35 14 2 6 16 2 32 41 16| 2 17 2 8 m England, East Coast. 4 5 8 7 «l 8 7 8 12 71 9 7 'AhiyA'. Berwick Tyne River Bar „ Newcastle . . Sunderland Tees River, Bar Whitby Scarborough .... Flamborough Head Httmber River, Spurn Point . . „ HuU... Lynn Deep, Sand Cromer Yarmouth Haven Lowestoft Orfordness .... Woodbridge Haven Bar Harwich Harbour Orwell River, Ips- wich Gun.fleetS.ind,N.E, 2 3 4 3 3 & 4 4 5 26 6 29 6 7 9 15 9 56 11 15 11 45 12 6 12 .35 18 15 20 14f 23 lOi 22 14| 45 15 45 15 11 15i 30 16 end : .1 11 40 20i 23 141 6 6i 8 12 111 13i 12 7i 8| 8 10| llf 23 2 4 5 6 8 TIDE TABLE. m Range. Sps. Nps. ft. 10 11 ft. 5 H 6 6 51 3 2 3* 10 4 n 5 14 8 12 7 102 «f 12 8 13 7 14 8 16 12 ^n 7i 9 15| 7 pj.T, ■!!«(;., T Place. High Water, Full and Change. Range. Sps. Nps. Ireland^ South and Etui Coaatt. Cape Clear Baltimore Kinsale Queenstown Ballycotton You^hal Ballinaoourty , Dun garran Waterford (Dun- cannon Fort) Wexford (6.) .. Arklo'w Wicklow Dalkey Island . . Kingstown Dublin Bar Harbour Balbriggan Dundaik Carlingford, Bar Ai*dglass Strangford, Bar M Portaferry h. n. ft. 4 9 4 23 10 4 43 in 6 1 n| 4 04 12 5 14 12t 5 12 12| 6 20 12} 7 21 5 8 45 4 10 29 9 10 45 13 11 10 11 11 12 13 11 9 12 10 40 11 11 17 10 40 17 11 16 10 30 15 12 14 ft. 6 61 7 7i 7i 6f 2i 4 9 6J 7 7 10 9 8 8 9 Ireland, North and West Coaats. 15 8 Hf 8 m 14| 71 15 16 m 8* 16 8 183 lOi 20i llf 23 23 141 n 6 2 6^ 4 8 5 12 6 111 8 13* 12 4 1 Donaghadee Belfast Lough Lame . . , Tor Point Ballycastle Bay . Port Rush Coleraine Londonderry , . Rathmullen, Lough S>viUy ...... Sheephaven ..... Gweedore Bay . . Inishkeel Killibega Ballyshannon (Bar) Sligo Bay KillalaBay Broadhavcn Har' hour Achillbeg Westport Inishbofin Roundstone 11 13 10 43 10 30 9 40 6 8 6 8 6 24 8 1 vjrreatman iiay. . . . Killeany, Arrau Is, 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 4 4 4 4 4 42 25 32 10 31 30 11 22 14 57 34 28 39 28 lU 9| 10 9 4 H m 12 11 11 111 10 Hi m 10| 101 121 13*1 1«* 13*1 7 6j 6 n 2 2 3! H 6! 5 4 4f 4 5| 6i 6 7 n Place. Galway Liscanor Bay . . River Shannon, Limerick „ Foynes Isd. „ Talbert . . „ Kilbeha . . Valentia Harbour Kenmare River, (West Cove) .... Bantry Harbour . . Castletoym, Bear- haven Black Ball Harbour Dunmanus Harboui- Crookhaven .... SkuU Cape Clear High Water, Full and Change. h. 4 4 6 5 4 4 3 3 3 4 3 3 4 4 4 m. 35 23 20 35 67 16 42 52 47 14 40 57 9 2 Range. Sps. ft. Hi 13i 17 15| IH 13 11 10 10 n n 9 Nps. Norway. Lofoten Islands Voero Tree Islands Romdals Islands Bergen 12 9 12 9 11 45 7 10 45 6 1 30 4 North Sea, East Coast. Skagen or the SkaW Blaavand Point . Hiertinff , Eider, Tonning , Elbe, Hamburg , „ Cuxhaven , „ Entrance.. Helgoland Weser, outer Ught vessel Ems (outer buoy) Ameland Gat . . Terschelling (West) Amsterdam . . ". . Nieuwediep .... Texel (outside shls.) Brielle Hellevoetsluis . . Flushing Ostend Nieuport 5 66 1 1 44 5 2 45 6 2 1 9 6 29 6* 1 8 10 12 11 11 33 9 5 11 30 ; 10 9 9 7 >:M^i. 8 40 6 4 3 18 7 27 4 3 6 30 4 3 3 8 2 30 8 4 1 20 15 12 25 19 11 12 18 16 12. Dunkerque Gravelines D'ance, North Coast. 12 8 ft. 6i n 8 7 6* H 5 6 H 6 6 12 19 16f 12 > 11 248 TIDE TABLE. Place. Calais Cape Grisnez . . . . Boulogne . . '. Cayeiut Dieppe Fecamp Havre Honfleur Cherltourg Aldemey Guerasey Goury Jersey, St. Aubin . . Carteret St. Germain Ilfigneville Granville He dc Chausey . . . . Cancale Lea Minquiers . . . . St. Malo Brfehat Heaux Lights . . . . TrSguier Ploumanach Morlaix Road Isle de Bas Abervrac'h U8hant(7.) High Range. Water, Full and Change. Sps. Nps. h. m. ft. ft. 11 49 19| 115 11 27 21 12 11 25 25 14 11 6 27 15| 10 44 23 13 9 51 22 121 9 29 23 11 8 51 17 9 7 49 17 8 6 46 17 8 6 30 25 14 7 6 22 13 6 21 32 14 6 25 31 14 6 20 42 16 6 20 35 17 6 13 37 17 6 9 35 17 6 20 37 17 6 6 35 17 6 5 35 17 5 51 31 16 5 45 31 16 5 32 25 12 5 15 24 12 4 53 24 12 4 49 23 11 4 14 22 10 3 32 lOi 8.1 France, Vest Coast. Brest Isle de Sein Concameau Prt. Louis, L'Orient St. Nazaire He de Noirmoutier Iled'Oleron Bordeaux .... Cordovan Lt. house Arcachon Roucaut, Adour R. Bayonno 3 47 19 3 21 17* 3 12 13 3 11 13 3 40 m 3 2 16 3 50 19 6 60 14 3 37 13 4 37 11 3 39 8- 3 45 12 S^Htin and Porttu/al. Port Pnsaage . . Bilbao Suiitander . . . . Corunna Cape Finistcnc Oporto 3 12 I 3 20 0| 3 30 16 1 3 15 1 3 1 2 30 10 I' 7 111 5 8 • High Water, Full and Change. Range. Place. Sps. Nps. Peniche Lisbon Bar Setubal Lagos h. m. 1 64 2 30 2 30 2 7 1 45 , ft. 16 8 13 9i 3 ft. Cadiz Gibraltar, old Mole (8) Malaga 2 20 12 Atlantic Isles. Funchal Bay, Ma- deira St. Michael, Azores Terceira „ Fayal „ Beimudos, Irelanu Island Dock Yard Porto Praya Sal, Cape Verde Is Puei-to de la Luz, Gran Canaiia 12 48 7 12 30 12 32 11 46 6 41 4 7 4 6 0? 7 46 4 5 6 12 62 10 A? Africa. Ceuta (9.) Tangier Mogador Cayye Bojador . . . . Cape Blanco Portendik Senegal Cape Verde River Gambia .... Bijou^alds., Or- angu Cliannel . . River Nuacz . . . Isles do Los Mellacoree T* Scarcics Rivers . . Sierra Leone .... Banana Islands . . Gallinas River Monrovia Capo Palnias .... Gmnd Lahou .... Cape Three Points St. George d'El- mina Cape Coast Cattle Uiver Logos „ Forva(' • „ Benin . 1 10 1 42 2 10 12 11 46 6 10 6 10 30 7 46 3 8 10 6-9 10 11 10 1ft 6 30 13 7 40 11 7 10 10 7 65 8 8 16 9 6 46 4 6 4 30 4 4 20 4 4 4 4 30 6 4 30 6 6 2 4 22 5 t 16 7 TIDK TABtK. 249 Place. Niger, Nun (en- ib'ance Bonnv and New Calabar Rivers. . Cameroons River .. Fernando Po Princes Id. St. Thomas Id, .. Anno Bom Id. . . High Water. Full and Change h. m. 4 8 5 4 3 45 3 25 3 45 Range. Sps. ft. 6 9 6 7 H 5 Nps. ft. Newfoundland (10). Little Mecattina . . New and Old Fe- roUe Bays of St. Ge- nevieve and St. Barbe Isle Verte, or Green Island . . Bay of Pistolot . . Croque Harbour . . Triton Harbour in Notre Dame Bay St. John's Placcntia Harbour St. Pierre and Miquelon Between Cape Cha pcau Rouge and Cape Ray gene- rally Beyond Cape Ray, northward, the tide is inconside- ablc* Labrador and Gulf St. Lawrenct. 10 30 6 11 45 11 30 9 6 45 6 30 5 ^ 6 7 30 9 15 6 6-7 8 9 3 6-7 9 7-8 St. Lewis Cape . . Clmtcivu Bay .... Hid Bay Bradoro Bay .... BolloH Amiurs Bay Kcf^ashka Bay . . ('loiirwator Point Mina;anHarlM)ur. . Biiv of Seven Islands Antic(wti Island, VVoHt Point I'oinr. do Monts . . Capo Chatto 6 30 7 35 7 45 8 45 9 10 45 11 30 I 16 1 40 12 12 3* 3* 4 5 5 7 12 13 1 IJ 2 2i 3 3 4 Place. St. Nicholas Har- bour Bersimis River . . Bio Island Saguenay, Tadou- sac High Water, Full and Change. h. m. 1 55 2 2 15 2 45 Range. Sps. ft. 12 12 14 16 Nps. River St. Latorence (11). Green Island Brandy Pots Isle aux Coudres . Pillars Quebec 2 45 16 3 17 4 25 17 6 17 6 38 18 Oulf St. Lawrence. Magdalen Islands Gaspg Basin Point Macqucreau Campbell Town, Ristigouche It. . , Mii-amichi Bar . . Richibucto River Point Eseumcnac 8 20 3 1 60 6 2 5 4 10 5 6 3 30 4 4 10 4 Prince Edward Island. Cardigan Bay .... Hillsborough Bay Bcdequo Har])our Cascumpeque Hr. Tracadio 8 40 5 1 10 45 91. 10 15 7 5 40 3 7 3i CajK Breton Island. Sydney Harbour . , St. Anne Bay . . . . 34 6 ft. h 9| ■If H 10 10 »^ 10' 13 2\ 3^ 7 '• 3f 2* 2k 81 7 5 2 2 4 3 New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, Shodiao Harbour Bay Verte Pictou Harbour . Out of Canso . . . Canso Harbour , llurboiir iHland . Ship Ilurbotir . . . Jedorv HaflM)ur . Halifax Harbo* ••. Sabie Island, 8. side „ N. sido Shelbuiiio . . . ( 1 8 4 9 9 10 15 4 7 48 6Jb 7 40 7 54 7 I't 7 49 ({ 8 :t(t 1 10 30 7 8 30 8 5 4 n 41 250 TIDE TABLE. Place. High Water, Full and Change Range. Sps. Nps. Bay of lytndy, Nova Scotia. E. side, Cape Sable Island Cape Sable Cape Sable, Seal uland Pubnico Tusket River . . Jebogue ....... Yarmouth .... Cape St. Mary West Port, Grand Passaffe .... Sandy Cove, East Annapolis .... Gulliver Hole . . Digby Gut . . Young Cove Point Port George Isle Haute , Black Rock Light- house Spencer Anchor- ago Parsborough West Bay, Basin of Mines Horton, do h. m. ft. 8 7 8 30 9 9 12 9 3 12* 33 13 9 47 16| 10 11 16* 10 30 19 10 47 21i 10 39 22* 11 30? 10 51 26 11 2 28 jt 11 14 32 11 22 34 11 27 3d| 11 36 37J 11 50 401 12 4 431 12 5 50 ft. Cumberland Basin, Sackville .... CapeChignecto(12) Quaco St. John Campobello .... West Quoddy . . Passaniaqucddy Grand Harbour, Grand Manan . Machias, Seal Is lands 11 48 11 11 31 li 24 11 20 11 3 11 30 11 1 10 58 50 32 32 26| 25 22| 25 171 13 4 6 10 12 13J m m 19| 20 21 22 25 27i Bay of lyindy, New Brunawick. 24 18 12 lOJ lU 10 United Stuiet. — Portland to New York. Mount Desert land n 3) ... Portland* la- 11 10 11 25 13 10 7*? Place. High Water, Full and Change. Range. Portsmouth* Newburyport* . . Salem* Marblehead .... Boston Light* . . Boston (Charleston Yard)* Plymouth Barnstable Cape Cod Monomy Point. . St. George Shoals Nantucket (14) Edgartown* Holmes Hole* Gay Head Tarpaulin Cove* . . Bird Island Light* New Bedford, en- trance* Newport* Point Judith* .. Montauk Point* Sandy Hook* . . New York* .... h. m. 11 28 11 22 11 13 11 30 11 12 11 27 11 30 11 11 30 11 30 10 30 12 24 12 16 11 43 7 37 8 4 7 59 Sps. Nps 57 45 32 8 10 7 29 8 13 Long Island Sound. ThrogsNeck* Sands Point* Oyster Bay* . . Bridgeport* . , New Haven* New London* Stonington* . . Watch Hill*.. Delaware Bay and River. Philadelphia* . New Castle* . . . Mahons River* Cape Henlopen HigbecB, CapoMov* Delaware Break- water* Chesapeake Bay and Bivere, 1 18 7 11 53 7 9 52 7 8 3-4 8 33 6i 8 4* Ri.-'hmond* , James River* 4 28 2 14 8? 8? 11 20 n 6 11 13 9 6i 11 7 H 5 11 11 8 4- 11 16 n 5? 9 28 3 2P 9 7 3* 2 9 3 2* 5 6JP 6 • From tlm Ftnport of the TI- 8 f^OMt Burvey, reeled and not the Vulgnr Estnhlislunont. tlio >i ... ...,i,.. ....... .■• ...,^ ....■ •^••. TIDE TABLE. 2111 Range. ps. NpB. ft. ft. 9| 7JP 9 6* 10| U 12 11 8? m 8P 11 9 13 6 7 H 2* l\ H 7 2i 2 8i »1 4J 2^ '^t 3 » 'i^ 2 It 5 4 3> eil 6 9 6 8 6| 6 4 6? 3 2? 3i f 2 3 2i ;«r. 7 5 7 6J? 7 5 3 4 6 I 4 4 1 3 }er» Place. Baltimore* .... Cape Henry .... Annapolu* .... PointLookout* Cape Charles . . Old Point Com- fort* High Water, Full and Change h. m. 6 33 Range. Sps. 40 38 12 58 7 45 8 17 ft. 1* 4 1 2 5 3. Nps. ft. 1 United Statet. — North Carolina to Texai Hattenw Inlet* Cape Hatteras . . . . Ocracocke Inlet . . Beaufort* Smithville* Cape Fear Georgetown Charleston* Savannah* Cape Florida* . . . . Sand Cay* Cay West* Tampa Bay* Pensacola Mobile Misaiasippi S. W, pass Galveston 7 4 2J 9 5 9 7 26 H 7 19 5i 7 7 7 4 7 13 H 3 13 7| 8 31 11 8 40 2 9 25 2* 11 21 li 2 2 1| 4 If 2i? 3[ 51? U I i 1 Oulf of Mexico. Vera Cruz Triangles . 2 I n Place. Campeche Cape Catoche . . . . Cozumcl Royal Harbour, Ra atan Cape Gracias Harb Man of War Cay . . Blewtields Greytown High Water, Full and Change. h. m. 1 42 9 30 8 30 7 45 10 30 8 10 1 50 9 Range. Sps. ft. 21 1 1| 31 2 2 4 U Nps. ft. 11 West India Islands. St. Havana, Cuba Cape Haytien, Domingo Gun Cay Abaco Nassau, New Provi' dence Guinchos Kay .... Clarence Harbour, Long Island Exuma Crooked Islanu Inagua 8an Juan, Porto Rico ... Chrit uanstadiSanta 'Jrua . . . Ah :'gada . 6 8 30 8 30 40 8 30 20 8 2 30 30 3 3 3 3-4 3 4 n u i 2§ REttfARKS ON THE TIDE TABLE. (1.) River Thames. -During Ntrong north-westerly gales, the tide marks high water earlier in the River Thames than otherwise, and does not give so much water, 'vhilst the ebb tide riuis out later, and marks lower ; but, upon the gales abating niid Iho weather moderating, the tides 'mt in and rise much higher, whilst they oIho iiiii longer before liigh water is markea, and with n)ore velocity of current, nor do they run out so long or so low. (2.) English Channel. — The tides of the English Channel were but impovfictly understood till Rear Admiral Beechey, ll.N., investigated a mass of obscrvutions which had Ixn-n made about the year 1847, and which demonsf rated that there wus a great resemblance in the characteristics of the tidal phenomena of the English and • From the lloport of the U. S. Coast Burvey, rpd and not the Vulgar IjJsUtb'ishincnl the timey of High Water being Cor- U2 REMARKS ON TIDE TABLE. Iiish Channels,^ and tbia investigation led to a more extensive series of observations tbroughout the English Channel, which were also discussed by Admiral Bccchey. From his valuable contribution to science and the mariner in the " Fhilosopbical Transactions " for 1851,* we make the following extract : — Instead of th« pi'ogressive changes of stream turning progressively later as the tide advances up the strait, they cease at a certain point, which is in the English Channel, between the Start and Guu of St. Malo ; and in the North Sea, between the Texel and the Estuary of Lynn ; and between these spots there is a 'tide peculiar i» the Channel, quite distinct from that of the seas on either side of it, which are always running in contrary directions. When these streams meet, the tide is ever varying in its' direction, according as the strength of one stream pi'evails over that of the other, giving to the water a rotatory motion, without scarcely an interval of slack water j wmle in the space between them tho tide sets steadily towards Dover, while the water is i-iaing there, and away from it while it m falling at that place. This " true Channel stream " b about 180 miles in extent in cither direction, from the point of union of the tides in the Strait of Dover to the region of rotatory tides oflF Lynn, and oflF the Start and St. Malo. As the true Channel streams are always running in opposite courses, there is neces- sarily a point where they meet and separate, and this occurs in the strait of Dover. But in tliis strait the stream, although it first obeys one tide and then another, does not slack with the Channel streams, but is found to be still running at high and low water on the shore, at which times those streams are at rest, so that the Strait of Dover never has alack water throughout its whole extent at any time. I have in consequence called this an intermediate tide. The limits of neither of the streams appear to be stationary, but range to and fro as the tide rises and falls at Dover, travelling to the eastward on both sides, and at high and low water suddenly shifting 60 miles to the westward to recommence their easterly course with the next tide ; and although so far apart, they possess the re- markable peculiarity of shifting together ; so that the Channel streams preserve, as nearly as possible, tnc same relative dimensions. In the Strait of Dover this line of meeting and of separation oscillates between Beachy Head and the North Foreland, a distance of about 60 miles- When the water on the shore at Dover begins to fall, a separation of the Channel streams begins off Beachy Head. As the fall continues, this lino creeps to the eastward ; at two hours after high water it hat reached Hastings ; at three hours, Rye ; and thus it travels on until at low water by the shore it has on-ived nearly at the North Fore- land on one side of the strait, and at Dunkirk on the other. At this time the Channel streams on both sides slack, but in that portion which I call the intermediate stream, in the Strait of Dover, the water is still running to the westward ; and when the new Channel streams niake, as the water rises on the shore, this intermediate portion is found tu unite with, or to oppose, one or the other of these streams, according as it was before the reverse ; so that, as before mentioned, the line of meeting at low water appears otf Beachey Head to recommence its easterly course. This intermediate stream fornm a remarkable feature in the tidal system of the Channel ; it is well establisliod, us the line of meeting and of separation occupies ti very limited bpacc, and it Hucms to bo entirelv due to the contracted form of the Channel in this immediate locality preventing tne free escaiie of the water. Captain Bullock, in order to test the point of sejiaration, anchored two vessels a mile apart between Beachy Head and Dungeness; and fcund both vessels at the same time to ride with their Jieads in opposite directions in obedience to the stnums, which were then ninning oppposite ways. The Channel Stream, which I have described as running between the intermediate stream and the rotatory or mixed streams at the outer extrtniitios of the Channel, [inrsut'H n steady course along the niM ill trunk of the Strait, slacking only towards times. • i>k;i '!Vi iruub,, to'to, Jip. iVJ— 110 i HUa 1001, pp. Tit*, OtkWl. REMARKS ON TIDE TABLE. 259 high and low water at Dover, when it is preparing to invert its courBe ; and, con- trary to the generally received opinion of a progressive slack water in a etrait having a progressive establishment, this stream has the peculiarity of slacking throughout its whole extent at nearly tiie same time ; and this time, as was anticipated in my former paper (" Phil. Trans.," 1848), corresponds nearly with the time of high and low water on the shore at Dover, the site of the combined wave, and the virtual head of the tide. A simple rule thus su£Eices to guide the sailor up the main Channel stream. It is that the stream runs toward Dover while the water is rising there, and away from it while falling. The tidal hours for Dover, therefore, answer for the whole of the Channel. (3.) Southampton, &c. — This ^ort has the singular advantage of having two high waters, which adds not a little to its dock fttcilities. The same phenomena is also found at other places within the Isle of Wight, and is owing to the Channel tide pass- ing roimd either end of the Isl? of Wight, and arriving at the point at different times. It will be observed that at Poole the rise and fall is insignificant, while on the op- posite side of the Channel we have the gigantic tides of the Bay of St. Malo, a similar feature to that which is found in the St. George's Channel. 4^ (4.) Bristol Channel. — The tides of the Bristol Channel are remarkable for their magnitude and rapidity. There are few places in the world where tluy arc exceeded. The Bay of Fundy, Nova Scotia, and the Bay of Mont St. Michel, on the French coast, are somewhat analogous. The effect of these rushing waters is to alter the channels and shift the banks in the upper portion of the Bristol Channel in a most extraordinary manner. Some idea is given in our Directions for the Bristol Channel, page 24. Without the Bristol Channel spring tides rise from 22 to 24 and 26 feet ; but as that channel narrows, or contracts in ite breadth, the velocity and vortical rise increase in proportion ; and so much that, in King Road, it rises to the 'leiglit of 8 fathoms.* Between Nash Point and Bridgowater Bay, past Hiu'lstone Point, &'c., the tide sets with great velocity over the Culver Sand, into Bridgewator Bay and Iliver. Through Caldy Sounds the stream from Cacrmurthtn Bay makes westward nearly two hours before the Jh>od has done running without the island ; and the stream makcii eastward through the Sound, as well as between the Helwick Sand and Worm's Head, nearly two hours before the channel ebb ceases. At Lundy Island ordinary spring tides rise 27 feet, equinoctial springs 31 feet, and neaps 13 feet. In Barnstaple Bay, ordinary springs rise 25 feet, equinoctial 28 feet, andjieaps 15 feet. In this bay, at from two to three miles fi-om shore, a gentle stream sets to the eastward, from tho time of low water to four hours' flood, and then to the westward until low water again. In niid-channcl between this bay and Lundy Island, the streams of flood and ebb set tide and tide each way, according to tho time of flowing on the shoie, at the rate of thi'ce miles an hour on springs and two upon the neapj, allowing half an houi' slacking and veering out. It should be understood that, within the range of Swansea Bay aiid its offing at about five miles west of the Skarweathcrs, the first quarter-flood seta directly toward them ; after which and until half-flood, it sweeps one mile outside, nearing the west end of the Nash Sands j and idtimately setthig, till high water, S.S.E. by eonqiaits, which points well outride of all. It averages a rate of 4 and o knots on springs, and 3 upon neaps, and changes exactly at the same time that it ceases to rise on tho shore ; but slack water always lasts half an hour. * Ciipt. And. Livingston, of Liverpool, a gontlonmn to whom we havo boon much iudobted fi)r many viihiuhlo and ustfnl cojiimunicationR, has informed us that ho actually indasnn'il I'uliy 60 fot'trisc yf water, in Novcmbor, IHl.'J, at King's UoHd, in a spring title. At Clioj)- btow, abovn, ou tho (.'pjvjsitc liidc, tlu. Vvrticiil rii^o ur' u spring f ido is not nnconifiiouly 60 loot, uutl <;VL'n 7'i foil. i6i REMARKS ON TIDE TABLE. It has been bb:iei'vcd, that over the nhoals, and through the different channeh), the velocity of the tides is greatly increased, and there is reason for believing that on springs the rate is nearly six knots. There is always a strong tide tinder these shoals, which is, of course, increased or decreased according to the vertical rise. This is of consequence when working up near them, as some advantage may, in the daytime, be taken of it, by keeping on the proper side. Its influence will be manifest to any vessel thus situated, as she would nearly make her course good when imder their lee, but swept away furiously on opening the different passages. Should it be desirable to have the true tide it will therefore be requisite to keep on the north or south side of all the shoals, ax^cording to the ebb or flood. (5.) St. Oeoboe's Channel. — Much {hat has been said of the English Channel tides is applicable to those of the St. George's Channel. In the St. George's or Irish Channel, experiments havp shown that, notwithstand- ing the variety of times of high water throughout the Channel, the turn of the stream rver all that part which may be called the nur navigable portion of the Channel is nearly simultaneous ; that the northern and southern streams in both channels com- mence and end in all pai-ts (practically speaking) at nearly the same time ; and that that time happens to correspond nearly with the time of high and low water on the shore at the entrance of Liverpool ana of Morecambe Bay,* a spot remarkable as ^injj the point where the opposite tides, coming round me extn^inities of Ireland, tern^mate. So that it is necessary only to know the times of high i.ad low water at either of these places to determine the hour when the stream oi either tide mil com- nence or terminate in any part of the Channel. For this purpose the Liverpool tide table may be used, pubtracting 16' from the times there r,iyen, in consequence of the Canning Dock being later in its high water than the point which is considered as the head of the tide. The tide from the Atlantic enters the Irish Channel by two channels ; of which Camsore Point, tiiie S.E. point of Ireland, and St. David's Head, the S.W. point of Wales, are the limits of the southern one ; and Rathlin and the Mull of Cantyre the boundaries of the northern. , The central portion of the stream of flood, or ingoing stream inms nearly in a line from a point midway between the Tuskar and the Bishops, to a position IG miles duo west of Holyhead ; beyond which it begins to expand eastward and westward ; but its main boay preserves its direction straight forward towards the Calf of Man and on towards Maughold Head. Here it is arrested by the flood or southern stream from the North Channel coming round the Point of Ayr, and is first tmiied round to the eastward by it, and then goes on with it at an easy rate direct for Morecambe Bay ; tJiUs changir.g its direction nearly eight points. '• The outer tmrtions of the stream are necessarily deflected from the course of the groat body of the water by the impediments of banks on the Irish side of the Channel, and by the tortuous form of the coast on the Welsh. 'Wie eastern portion rushes with great rapidity between the Smalls, Grassholm, and Milford Haven towards the Bishops, which it passes at a rate of between 4 and 5 knots ; sets sharply round those rocks 1:1 an E.N.E. direction, right over the Bass Bank, and into Cardigan Bay ; makes the circuit of that bay, and sets out again towards Bardscy, at the other ex- tremity of i' ; the stream still continuing outside towoi'ds the South Staek, which it rounds, setting towards the Skernes at a rate of upwards of 4 knots ; and, finally, turns sharp round those rocks for Liverpool and Morecambe Bay ; completing in its way the high water in the Menai, und filling the Dee, the Mersey, and the Ribl;le. 'IhG wedern portion of the tttrtam, after passing the Saltees, runs nearly in the direction of tho Tuskar,uets sharply round it, and then takes a N'E. ^ N. Direction, • The ciitrnnccs oi Liverpool and ofMorpcRnibe Ffiy (Rio Li^hthoum*, Fleetwood) arc, as before wtatod, Ifi iniuules earlier in their times of high water thun thobc Riven for Livcr- jwol in the tide tabies. REMARKS ON TIDP: TABLE. 25S setting Burly along the coast, but over the banks skirting the shore ; so that vessels tacking near the inner edge of the sands on the flood, and on the outer edge on the ebb, have been carried uyon them and lost, especially upon the Arklow and Codling Banks. Abreast of the Arklow is situated that remarkable spot in the Irish Channel, where the tide scarcely rises or &lls. The. stream, notwithstanding, sweeps past it at the rate of 4 knots at the springs, and reaches the parallel of Wicklow Head. Here it encounters an extensive projection of the Codling Bank ; and while the outer por- tion takes the circuit of the bank, the inner stream sweeps over it, occasioning an overfiall and strong rippling all round the edge, by which the bank may generally be discovered. Beyond this point the streams unite and flow on towards Howth and Lambay, growing grv. lually weaker as they proceed, until they ultinmtely expend themselves in a Urge space of still water situated between the Isle of Man and Car- lingford. There we have not been able to detect any stream ; for there another remarkable phenomenon occurs — ^the water rising and mlUng, without having any perceptible stream. This space of still water is marked by a bottom of blue mud. Such IS the course of the flowing water at the Southern Channel. In the North Channel the stream enters between the Mull of Cantyre and Rathlin Island simultaneously with that passing the Tuskar into the Soathem Chaimel, but ' flows in the contrary direction. It runs at the rate of 3 knots at the springs, increas- ing to 6 knots near the Mull, and to 4 near Tor Point on the opposite side of the channel. The main body sweeps to the S. by E. taking nearly the general direction of the channel, but pressing more heavily on the Wigtonshire coast. The central portion midway between the Mull of Galloway and the Copeland Islands presses on towards the northern half of the Isle of Man ; and while oite por- tion of it flows towards the Point of Ayr, the other makes for Contrary Head, and is there turned back to the N.E. at a right angle nearly to its early couisc. Passing Jurby Point, it re-unites with the other portion of the stream, and they jointly rush with a rapidity of from 4 to 6 knots round the Point of Ayr, and directly across all the banks lying off there, and catching up the stream from the South Channel off Maughold Head, they hurry on together towards that great point of union, More- cambe Bay. This bay, the grand receptacle of the streams from both channels, is notorious for its huge banks of sand, and also remarkable for a deep channel scoured out by the stream, and known as the Lune Deep, which is the great beacon to all vessels boimd to tiiat place. Such is a general description of the streams in the Irish Channel, which are pro- duced by the flowing of the water, or which, for the pm-pose of distinction, we may designate the ingoing streams. The ebbing or outgoing streams do not materially differ from the reveree of those, except that in the southern channel they press rather more over towards the Irish coast. (6.) The North Sea. — The complicated tidal eystim of the North Sea was first developed by the Rev. Dr. Whewell in 1833, and although there may be some diffe- rence of opinion upon various points m-ged by the author in the " PLilos. Trans," for that yar, still the main features seem to be establii^ed. The the following is the abstract : — " It appears that we may best combine all the facts into a consistent scheme by dividing the German Ocean into two rotary systems of tide waves ; one occupying the space from Norfolk and Hollond to Norway ; and the other the space between the Netherlands and England. In the former space the cotidal lines, or those on which the tides are at the same time, revolve around a point where there is no tide ; for it is clear that at a point where all the tidal lines meet, it is high water at all houi-s, that is, the tide vanishes. In the latter space we may suppose similarly a tidelcss centre, about which tho cotidal lines revolve. A further collection of exact observations having been made in 1850-51, and dis- cussed by Admiral Beechey, as before alluded to in tho English Channel, a still further insight has been given, and the following summary wis drawn up by Mr. Jno. Murray, C.K., 1801; ' The great stream of flood from the Atlanf ic. after travertin* the ■wpsf.prr! r.iasf u.-^. A. Vt/ Scoiiimrt, appi-oachcs the Orkney and Shetland Isles from the north-west, passing 236 REMARKS ON TIDE TABLE. eastward through these noups, and after combiniag with the stream through the Fentland Frith, ran southward along the east coast of Caithness. The same great stream of flood also reaches the coast of Norway, and in latitude 62° separated, one branch running to the north, and the other south. The latter stream impinges upon Kinnaird Head and Rattray Point, throwing a br. nch into the Moray Fiith. The eastern branch of this stream continues its course southward, until checked by St. Andrew's Bay and the shoals off the coast of Fife, passing fix>m tiience into the Friths of Tay and Forth. In consequence of the Bell Rock, and other jiatches north of it, the stream of flood ia divided; and as the flood in the deep water is pressed forward with greater velocity than the streams which traverses the more shallow water of the coast, the main stream arrives sooner, and splits off Dunbar and St. Abb's Hcntt, entering the Frith of Forth in a north-westerly direction, and penetrating a conside- rable distance within it, before the other streams which run parallel with the coast. Southward fix>m St. Abb's Head the stream of flood is uninterrupted, untU it en- countered the projecting coast from Redcar eastward ; and the tidal waters are in consequence heaped up in Tees Bay. This stream continues its course, and off Whitby joint) the main stream coming due south from the deep water. The united < streams cou jnues their course to Fkmborough Head, sending a b*"\nch suddenly round this point to the westward, which sweeps Bridlington Bay and the low coast of Holdemess. Another branch makes for the mouth of the Humber ; but the main stream takes a south-easterly direction, and as the depth of the sea is reduced, by an extensive shoal off the coast of Norfolk, the stream of flood is forced forward, scooping out in its passage the Inner Silver Pit. From thence it runs into Lynn Deeps and fills the Great Wash. Another branch was scoopt out the channels called the Coal and Sole Pits, and continues its course between numerous long narrow banks, which much retar'ls the velocity of the tidal stream. The stream. The stream of flood off Yarmouth resumes its southerly coui^c, hugging the coasts of Suffolk and Essex, until it fell into the estuary of the Thames. Returning now to the great flood stream off Flamborough Head, the main set ran almost due east between the shoal ground off the coast of Norfolk, and the Outer Well Bank, scom'irg out a channel called the Outer Silver Pit, between it and the shoals. Continuing onwards to the Texel, it threw off a branch southward, which made for th^ mouth of the Thames and the Schelde ; and this current met with the flood issuing through the Straits of Dover, the one neutralizing the other. Obse/va- tions made by the late Ca^t. Hewett, R.N., in lat. 62"' 27' 30' N., long. 3" 14' 30 E., showed, as had been previously pointed out by the Rev. Dr. Whewell, that no rise and fall of the tide could exist in that part of the North Sea ; and that, therefore, the surface between the two opposite coasts must assume a con^'^ex form at low water by the shores, and a concave one at high water. The great stream of flood made for the mouths of the Weser and the Elbe, sweeping the coast of Friesland, and being forced in a northerly direction along the coast of Denmark, it impinged on an extensive reef off the extreme point of Jutland, which altered its course. It then took the name of an ebb-tide, and after uniting with the constant outset from the Baltic, ran in a north- easterly direction, meeting the flood entering the North Sea between Norway and Scotland, to renew the race it had just run. (7.) Bay of Biscay. — On the coasts of the bay, the tidal wave advancing from the westward, makes high water almost at the same hour all around its shores ; and the range also does not vary greatly. (8.) Strait of Gibraltar. — In the middle of the Strait of Gibraltar, the current mostly and generally sets to the East : but, on each side, the flo*)d tide sets to the westward. On the European side. West of the Isle of Tarifa, it is liigh water at eleven o'clock, but the stream without continues to run until two o'clock. On the opposite shore of Africa, is is liigh water at ten o'clock, and the stream without continues to run imtil one o'clock : after which periods it changes on either side, and runs east- ward with the general current. Near the shores are many changes, ouunter-currents, and whirl-i ools, caused by, and varjang with, the winds. (9.) Africa.— The currents on the Africa)i coast (hereafter explained) render the «rivnn tinicH of Hiffh water uncertain. REMARKS ON TIDE TABLE. 25? der the Between Cape^ContLi and Cape Blanco they are strong, and set aa shown on the Chart. In the road>without the Senegal, the cunent sets chiefly to the S.W. From the bar, strongr freshes come down after the ' ins, and a powerful current of fresh water sets from uie river to some distance cat *o sea. ^ In the Bay of Yoff, to ^^«i N.E. of Cape Verde, the currents set rapidly, and some- times in very dangerous ^^rls. V ..■.,./« At the mouth of the Gambia the greatest rise in the dry season is not more than 6 feet. Here the tide continues to i-un on the surface for an hour and a half after it ceases flowing on the shore. The level of the sea, in the vicinity of Cax>e Coast Castle, is higher, by at least 6 feet, in the rainy season (which is the season of the strong S.W. and southerly winds, between April and September), than in the more serene weather of the dr^' season. In the rainy season, or S.W. monsoon, trunks of trees are frequently carried on shore, and foimd at 6 or 8 feet above the level of the sea, of the other season ; and the tides ebb and Jlow regularly in the several rivers ; but, in the dry season, the same rivers run ebb constantly ; tne level of the sea being then too low to allow the tide- waters to enter the mouths of the rivers. Some Remarks on the tides about Cape Blanco, the Channels of the Bissagos, &c., are given in the Description of the Coast hereafter. (10.) Newfoundland. — On all the coasts of Newfoundland the tides are very irre- gular ; being greatly influenced by the prevailing wind. On all the eastern coast they have nearly the same rising ; springs about 6 feet ; neaps 4. At the entrance of St. John's they set in .a bore. Between Capo La Hune and Cape Ray the flood sets io the westward ic the offing, very irregularly, but generally two or three hourc. after high water on shore. See more particularly our " British American Narigator, Hic." published by Mr. Laurie. (11.) River St. Lawrence. — At 3 leagues below Tadoust^c, or the Saguenay, is the eddy of the flood, and the stream on the surface always sets thence downwai'd. Off Tadousac, the tide ebbs six hours eight minutes. Both streams h^re run three- quarters of an hour after high and low watrv. At Green Island, it ebbs six hours twenty-four minutes, and flows six hours. At the Isle aux Coudres, it ebbs six hours t , 'enty minutes, and flows six hours. Here the ebb stream continues an hour and a quaiter after lov water, and the flood three-quarters of an hour after high watex". Within the Pillars, off St. Jean, the tide ebbs six hours fifty minutes, and flows five hours twenty-five minutes. Both streams continue to run an hour after high and low water by the shore, but they are influenced in duration by strong winds. At the Isle of Orleans, the stream ebbs seven hours, and fiows five hours twenty minutes. At Quebec, it flows four hours fori}' -Ave minutes only, but an hour longer as above. From Green Island to Quebec the tides rise irregularly, but vary considerably. From Coudro to Quebec the water falls 4 feet before the tide makes down. At the Isle of Coudre, in spring tides, the ebb runs at the rate of 2 knots. The next strongest ebb is between Apple and Basque Islo« ; the 'bb of the River Sayuenay uniting here, it runs lull 7 knots in spring tides ; yet, b.though the ebb is so strong, the flood is scarcely x^erceptible ; and below the Isle of Bic, there is no appearance of a flood tide. (12.) Bay of Fundy, — Off Cape Sable the tide runs at the rate of 3, and some- times 4, milen an hour } and in the Bu « of Fundy the tides are voiy rapid. Capo D'Or and Cnpo Chignccto are high lands, w'th very steep clifl's, and deep water close under thtin. The same kind of shore <-». •- s to the head of Chignccto Bay* where vtfy extensive flats of mud and quiclf l .. *ro left to dry at low water. Here the '1 K est REMARKS ON TIDB TABLE. tidea come in a boriB, cushingr in with mat rdpidit^r : they are known to flow »t the ej^ninozes from 60 to 70 feet perpendicular ; and it is remarkable that, at the same -: tame, they r be in the Bay Verte, on the northern side of the istbmns, only 8 feet. (Id.) KouNT DErar. . I^^a^. — At Mount Desert Rook the stream ai flood divides to run eastwaid and yrcHUfatd. With the Skuttook Hilk aboot N.N.E., and within 4 or ^ lemues i>f those Qjf Mount Desert, the flood stream set* V,. p!JE., and the ebb, W.S.W. ; but, at the distance of 9 or 10 leagues from the land, ti^- -.trrent, in general, fiets to ibe S.W. and more westward. From the Mount Desert Rock to the Fox islands, at the entrance of the Bay of Penobscot, the flood stream seta W.S.W. along shore ; but it, nevertheless, runs up to the northward into Isle Haute Bay, &c. (14.) Nantucket, &c. — OS this this island and its vicinity is that remarkable, hut ^-ingerous collection of shoals, which are so well known to all who navigate thepe waters. Their form and situation, and idso the peculiarities of the Cape Cod peninsula lead to the inference that there is some singular effects of tiie tides and currents hereabout to which these peculiarities are owing. This subject has been par- tiallv investigated by the United States Coast Surv^, but a complete report has not yet been issued. *' The region about Nantucket and Martha's Vineyard is the dividing^ space between the cotidal hours of xii. and xv., and in this locality the combination of two apparenthr distinct tide-waves is observed. This combination presents the most nngular rorms, giving at times four high tides in one day near the junction of Nan- .tucket and Martha's Yinevard Sounds, and distorting the tide-wave generally, not only in these sounds, but also on the open sea coast of Nantucket and Mai'tha's Vine- yard Islands, and in Mustkeget Channel. " The great disturbance of the ocean level thus produced gives rise to those re- markable currents so peculiar to this neighbourhood, and so disastrous to commerce." (15.) Florida, &c. — ^Near Kay Westj on the Florida Reef, the tides are, in some measure, regular within the reef: the flood setting to the westward, and the ebb con- trary. To the w otw.lrd, between the Toitugas and Cayo Marques, the flood sets variably througli to the northward, and ebbs to the E.S.E. It is remark', 'e thai;, on the South side of these kays, the flood comes ft-om the south-enstwai , hue oa the North side of them, all the way from Kay West, the flood runs to the eastward, along the edge of the bank, and to the southward, through the little channels, in order to fill up the intermediate bays and lagoons, with the assist- ance of the flood from the southward. Westward of Kay West there is a general current to the south-westward, along the reef, and to some distance to the South side of it. In Chatham Bay it runs tide and half-tide ; viz., three hours flood, then three hours ebb : next, nine hoiurs flood, &c. Hero, in some places, it is a mere fiill ; but in some of the channels it is as much as four men can do to stem the current with a boat During a S.E. ^le or stonn the water in the bays and rivers of We':;t Florida has been known to nse 7 feet perpendicular, and vessels of burden have been driven in, among th« pine trees, at some distance from shore. From Cape Roman, northward and westward, the tide seems to ebb and flow only once in the twenty-four hours ; but it is irregular, and much governed by the winds. Yet the effects in a dry season are very peroeptible in the rivers at a distance from the sea. (16.) Bahamas, &c. — Although, at the Bahamas, tiie rise and fhll are inconside' rahle, the tide of flood sets an indraught on the northern part of the Little Bahama Bank from every point of the compass, which renders an approach very dangerous. The tide sets with some force directly on.and off the western side of the Grand Bank of Bahama; particularly at the full and change of the moon. High water at half- past seven or thereabout. Rise, 3 to 4 feet. On the Middle Ground of this bank the r.i<1na uAf. in nvArr- dintnf.inn. W' IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) V tf ^ 1.0 ^i»* I.I US 12.2 Ui III ■u u 11.25 IIHI.4 6" U4 7 Photographic Sciences Corporation ^gt' 33 WIST MAIN STRUT WltSTM.N.Y. MSW (716) 173-4903 ;■'' /; TP^t nJT'-'^tati^ jWVmj "^f ■■■:..■ 'f \ vf '^ ^- «<^ •'■.>*«■ -^' /' *-V^ / : frni^ M '' t'u\ iuty fifi «0* 4S' 1 T,i. r--i_i_l. _^_j_i. r.j_-.- ^ CODY I v/ is" lo" I ,''""",'■ ■■ * '■ . '. ---v -.-->■•"'■'*■.■" %■ - ,*' "' -"t^^-- \Ms^-""" — 1 — -• -j/ --^r-T^-'trTtr- f " n,*-|r"/i(i"fT ^ — \"* •-^'VC' **** -* "T c \ ',^* — 5^1 %> : r^J^M^ -t^P^-Pr^:" y \ y-*.'^ -H?--.- .^.r^: i I - "i.iiiiliM" —'"-*■ ^ . ■= . ■ • 1 , I., . A 1 I n (HI* 33SSSSa=aeaBBK:aMMMMHBrMHi^SE=SS«|SBSiSSBK^ R H l«un» *J •'" ■'''Ml.LonHnh DESCRIPTIOl* OF THE CURRENTS. 25» In Providence N.W. Channel the current runs generally to the eastward, hhout 2 miles an hour. Near Eog Island, to the N.W. of Eleuthera, it is, however, uncertain, and great attention should he paid to the lead. In the passaKe within Egg Island the tide runs . at the rate of 4 miles, and rises ahove 4 feet ; the flood setting eastward, and strongly over the reefs. Ahout the Berry Islands and Providence the water rises 2 feet higher when the sun comes to the northward of the line, than it doe«i when the sun iM to the south- ward, and its strength is in a similar proportion. Hete and at the Bernini Isles the flood sets to the N.E. m.-0 F THE CURRENTS. (127.) GEHERAL BEICABKS.— A Current is at present to be understood to be a stream on, or a particular set in the direction of, the surface of the sea, occasioned by winds and other impulses, exclusive of (but which may be injluenced by) the causes of the tides. It is an observation of Dampier, that Currents are scarcely ever felt but at sea, and Tides but upon the coasts ; and it is certainly an established fact that currents prevail mostly in those parts where the tides are weak and scarcely perceptible, or where the sea, apparently little influenced by the causes of the tides, is disposed to a quiescent state. This will be obvious by an attentive consideration of the following descriptions. The necessity of attention to the silent, imperceptible, and therefore dangerous operation of currents, will be equally apparent. (128.) The usual method of estimating the existence, direction, and velocity of a current, as is well known, is the comparison between the observed position of a ship and that obtained by dead-reckoning. It may be as well to observe in the outset, that this only method of observations involves some amount of fallacy, as a current will be the general receiver of all errors or inperfections of observation, and beyond doubt the strength of cun-ents has been frequently exaggerated from this very cause. Now, as the latitude is attained far more cosily and accurately than the longitude, it follows that this exaggeration has been chiefly shown in those currents supposed to move to e^st and west. Still, by combiniuff a large number of observations, we may safely conclude that they will neutralize oacn others errors, and aflTord something like an accurate conclusion. (129) We have an excellent respository of >>. vast number of current obser^'ations in the elaborate charts of Mi^or Rennell, still the great mine for facts in surface current theory. Commander Maury's charts likewise word a great addition to our stock of knowledge. Thie is also increased by numerous detached observations scattered through many works. All these, as far as attainable, have all been int But we have a remarkable proof, lately obtained, that not only the upper fitrata, mit also the whole ocean to its bed is of one universal character. During the voyagoof H.M.S. JinlMoff, in the nummer of 18B0, for the purpose of obtaining the deep NCR Houndiugs between England and Labrador, for the electric Iclcgrnph cable. GENERAL REMARKS. 26t when nearly midway between Ireland and Greenland, they brought up from the depth of 1,260 fathoms, that is nearly 1| statute nule, several live atar/iafi, which had clasped their slender arms round that part of the soundine line which lay on the bottom. Now, as the process of winding this line in woum occupy upwards of an hour, and these delicate animals having passed through all the strata still cMached and {dive, it follows that had the water varied in character even in a slight degree, that they would have loosened their hold and have died. . ^ ri Besides this, immense quantities of microscopic animals have been brought up from their living places at greater depths, disproving the idea that these minute creatures had lived on the surface, and when dead had sunk to the bottom. All this goes to prove that sea water is everwhere and at all depths alike. It is needless to pursue this subject farther now. It will be found more amplified hereafter, when the question of the depth of the Atlantic is discussed. It is only here cited in order that should the mariner in the course of his voyage be able, from his observations, to add to the knowledge of this interesting but new subject, it will afford him great interest, and be beneficial to the rest of the world. (135.) The subject of the temperature of the ocean will be treated of specially at the end of the work. It is of importance in some localities, as it will indicate the changing from one current to anomer, as from the Gulf Stream into the cold Arctic current within it, or the reverse. It was foiinerly thought that a decrease of tempe- rature was a sure indication of approaching shoal water, and its study was therefore inculcated as a precautionary measure. This point, however, has been shown to be, in general, fallacious. It arose from the fact tnat vessels crossing the Gulf Stream, on attaining soundings on the American coast, experienced a very sudden decrease of heat in the water, fhis is now accounted for in a very different way, therefore this topic is not of so much importance in the practice of navigation as was formerly thought. (136.) Of Coeeents there are two distinctions : — 1. The 2)rj/55 Current: 2. The Stream Current. The Deift or Deift Cueeent is the mere effect of a constant or vert/ prevalent wind on the surface water, impelling it to leeward until it meets with some obstacle which stops it, and occasions an accumulation and consequent stream of current. It matters not whether the obstacle be hind, or banks, or a stream of current already formed. The drift current is generally shallow, and at a mean, perhaps, of no more than half a mile an hour, when the wind is constant and a good breoKe. Such a current, from a predominance of westerly winds, occupies the northern region of the Atlantic, from the N.W. and West to the E.N.E. and S.E. ; and such, likewise, is the central portion of the ocean under the influence of the trade wind. The Steeam Cueeent is formed by the accumulated waters of a drift current. It is more limited, but it may be of any bulk, or depth, or velocity. Of such is the temporary stream setting at times from the Bay of Biscay to the West of Ireland ; and of such is the Florida or Oulf Stream, setting from the Mexican Sea to the Banks of Newfoundland, and terminating to the West of the Azores. In some pai'ts the current is compounded of drift and stream ; for a stream, already formed, may pass through the rc^on of a prevalent wind, in a direction according with that of its artft current, and receive an acceleration of motion from it accordingly. Of such is the Equatorial Current, which will be presently noticed. (137.) Of the currents and regions of the Athmtic, the fii-st in order, from the Land's End of England, is Rennell's Cueeent, a temporary but extensive stream, which sets at times from the Bay of Biscay to the westward and N.W., athwart, the entrance of the English Channel, and to the westward of Cape Clear. Second.— The Easteelt and S.E. Deift Cueeents to the coasts of Europe and Africa, and southerly to the Coast of Guinea. Third.- The Afeican or Guinea Cueeent, an Eahtkely stream across the Atlantic between 5° and 8' N., and continuing along the coast of Africa, into the Bigiits of Benin and BiatVu, with u westerly outstt from the huiuc. 263 DESCRIPTION OF THE CURRENTS. Fcnirtil. — ^The Sargasso Sea or ccnti^I area; between the Azores, Canaries, and Bemnidaet, &c., in which it seems that there is no particular current, and is covered with the Well-known Sargasso or Oulf Weed. FIM. — The Equatorial Currents, the vast streams caused by the trade winds. That of the N.E. Trade running firom between the tropic and Cape Verde, on tha fetotem side, towards tiie Carribee Islands, having a general westward tendency, and that from the S.E. Trade, which is usually found to the N. of the equator, passing ctroagly to the westwiurd, south of the counter or easterly current, number thr. e above, and then strongly to the W .N.W. along the Colombian coast, joining the N.E. Trade current in the Caribbean Sea. Sixth. — The Currents of the Colombian or Caribbean Sea, and the Mexican Stream, a continuation of the Great Equatorial Streams into the Mexican Sea, from the south-eastward and eastward. Seventh. — The Florida or Oulf Stream, an outset from the Mexican Sea, setting thence to the north-eastward, through the Strait of Florida, and thence eastward toward the jN'ewfoundland Bank and Azores, &c. Eighth. — The Arctic or Labrador Current, passing southwards from Davis Strait down the coast of Labrador, round Newfoundland, and thence south-westward past NoA'a Scotia and the coast of the United States inside the Oulf Stream. In explaining this subject, we shall endeavour, in the first place to establish the facts which prove the existence of these currents, and then attempt to deduce the causes, according to the given description. 1.- -OF RENNELL'S CURRENT 5 OR THE CURRENT ATHWART THE ENTRANCE OF THE ENGLISH CHANNEL. (138.) This current, which, is occasionally of considerable breadth and strength, frtM^uently sets athwart the entrance of the channel to the N.W. and W.N. W. at some distance to the westward of the Isles of Ushant and Scilly. As it apparently depends on temporary circumstances, it is considered as a temporary stream ; and, although a certain quantity of northerly indraught is always to oe allowed for, vrith the tide of flood, on approaching the SciUy Islands, the current, unless with particular winds on the ocean, wul be scarcely, if at all, perceptible. The general causes of Currents, so far as they depend upon the state of the winds, &c., are generally known to seamen ; and that a long-continued wind, in one par- ticular dnection, will either produce a stream where no obstruction exists, or causes an accumulation of the water against an opposing coast, until a reverberation takes place, needs no demonstration. The latter appears to be the case in the present in- stance. A lon^ and continual prevalence of westerly and south-westerly winds, in combination with a current that commonly sets into the southern part of the Bay of Biscay, occasions an accumulation of water in the Bay, which seeks a an escape, by setting to the N.W. or W.N.W., within the limits described by the half-arrows in the accompany Chart. It would be very difficult to understand how that the great preponderance of winds from the westward of North and South, which prevail in the latitudes of Cape Finis- terre, should not have some effect in forcing the wat«r toward the coast ; and if so, what can become of it, unless it forms some current, which we should very naturally expect to find would follow the trend of the coast against which it is propelled. That such a cun-ent does actually prevail is too well known to be longer doubted. Mr. Kellt, the author of a treatise on Navigation, in two volumes, published in 1733, has given a particular instance of it;* by which he shows that a ship becalmed • 8ce Vol. i. p: 434. '^ »":>>m;-«!v^ :Airfiirw.i*Be«M RENNELL'S CUBRENT. 263 with her sails Airled for forty-eight hovn, was in that time carried bjr the .current 46 miles to the northward ; and we have many 6ubsequcnt examples of vessels which hare heen set, by the coarse of the stream, to the northward, or upon the rocks, of $cilly. But the writer to whom we are more particularly indebted for an elucidation- of tile subject, is the late M(^or Bennell,^ who has given an illustration of it, which places it beyond all controversy ; and from whose paper, published in the "Philosophical Transactions" of the year 1793, we extract tne following obsen-a- tioos: — " In crossing the eastern part of the Atlantic, the Hector, East India ship, Captain Williams, in 1778, encountered, between the parallels of 42° and 49', very strong westerly gales ; but particularly between the 16th and 24th of January, when, at in- tervals, it blew with uncommon violence. It varied two or more points, both to the North and S.W., but blew longest bora, the northern point ; and extended, as subse- (juently appeared, from the coast of Nova Scotia to that of Spain. «' WitMn 60 or 70 leagues of the meridian of Scilly, on the 30th of January, be- tween the parallels of 49° and 50% the effect of the current was first experienced, which set the ship to the North of her intended parallel, by nearly half a degree, in the interval between two observations of latitude ; namely, in two days. The wind. * From the name of this gentleman, the current is now generally denominated BknmsWs CuEEBNT. The currents of the ocean appear to have attracted the attention of Major Rennell at an early Period, and they continued to occupy the attention until the luRt ebb of his honourable life. The results have appeared T' afore the world in five large charts, with a descriptive volume, dedicated to his late Majesty, William the Fourth, under the editorship of Mr. Jno. Furdy, the original author of this volume. The Major's firs^Chart and Remarks on the Agulhns or South African Current appeared in the year 1778, and the impoi-tant tract on the Scilly or 'thwart Channel Current, in the year 1793. In tiie mean time, and subsequently, some cursory remarks on the same subject were introduced in the " Ulustration of the Geography of Herodotus," the Philosophical Journals, &c. In or about the year 1810, on th suggestion of a friend (Mr. Purdy), who expressed a wish to see all his writings on this subject combined and republished, he com- inenced his Current Chart$ of the Atlantic Ocean, and collected frcn, the wind continued to blow strong from between the South and West, but mostly from the foi-mer. Having no other observation [of latitude] for six days, in which time they carried sail constantly, they by reckoning expected to fall in with Cape Clear j but in the following night they fell in with tne Slasquets.' These islands and rocks are situated in lat. 52° lU', or about 48 miles to the North, and one degree of longitude to the westwai-d of Cape Clear. " Again (page 10) he says, that the Bristol merchant-ships, wiiich fall in with Cape Clear, on their homeward passage [from the West Indies, &c.], shopo their course • From a view of the Chart of Soundings botwoon Spiiin nnd Ireland, ono might bo Iwl to HUppoM) that tho deep water and steop shore along tho North Vonni of Hpain lunl beon piirtly occaoioncd by thowater driven in from the Atlantic, in wosturly Btomis, along that niaMt ; and which had gradually worn away tho matter there, and depoMitcd it on tho Imnk which uxtondHfrom Bayonno to tho w«gtw!ird of IrcLiJid. For ths; Jwijik serinn to (Xpand, us it gwH northward, in like manner an tl»o currunt ; and tho water is «hiiliowor than might Ik? uxpcctod, in proportion to tho duplhs farthur in, RENNELL'S CURRENT. 268 from thence, with a lacae wind, to the high land near Padstow : which is the land thoy choose to make to lead them to the entrance of the Bristol Channel. That, in estimating this coarse, they allowed 4 or 5 degrees in the bearing, to compensate for the indraught int2 St. George's Channel. This angle would g^ve about 13 or 14 nautic miles ; and is probably what they found by experience to be the general amount of the northern set, " He goes on to say that, in like manner, the safety of ships, after they come into soundings, until they reach Scilly, depended on their making no less allowance than Bristol men do in the other Channel. For, says he, ' experience informs me that, from the commencement of soundings, in lat. 49" 30' N., to the length of Scilly, in fair tpeathet'f I had found the northern indraught to he 6 or 8 miles in the twenty- hours.'" Here, then, the fact of the northern set is a second time recognised, though without any suspicion, any more than before, of there being a westerly set also. Here it may be proper to state, what appears to me to be a very important fact ; although pernaps not connected with the current in question, but materially affect- ing the safety of the navigation between the English Channel and Dublin. It was communicated to the author by Captain Evans, a gentleman who superintends the harbour-works at Holyhead, and who has had much experience in the navigation of the Irish Sea. " All navigators (says he) in t^?ir voyage from the Land's End to Dublin, find themselves more or less carried +0 the eastwai-d, while running up St. George's Channel ; which is the cause of so many vessels finding themselves in Cardigan Bay ; where in tempestuous weather and westerly winds many have been lost.* And tnis ■ he justly supposes to be occasioned by a current setting to the north-eastward." From subsequent communications, it has been shown that the water sets into the Bay of Biscay from the N.W. as well as the West, at times as high as the parallel of iV ', and it is supposed that a whirl is sometimes formed by the outer part of the water; that the ba^ discharges to the N.W., tuminv to the west, ana round the South and S.E., while the inner part shoots to the N.W. and W.N.W. Henf^o it may be concluded that, when the volume of water received, and, of course, the velocity, is very great, the whirl to the left or West is farther removed to the N.W., and the contrary. Of this current Captain Livingston says : — " I have seen, in a late magazine, some onu alleging that Rennell's Current, athwart the channel, is imaginary. I know the contrary from experience, and perfectly remember, that in 1813, while master of the Lark sloop, I was set one day twenty-four minutes North of dead reckoning, equal to one mile an hour, but can say nothing as to the westing. On coming lately from Bordeaux, 1819, we were set by it seventeen minutes North in twenty-four hours ; but, as a passenger, I had, at this time, no opportunity of keeping a reckoning." On the 13th July, 1826, the ship Carshalton Park, Captain 3. S. Park, entered upon the Bank of Soundings on the parallel of 49", and between the meridians of IT and 9' W., RenncWa Current was then found to bo Hctting with dangerous strength. The Hhip crossed it rapidly ; running all the time at the rate of 7 knots, but wus swept 14 or Id miles to the N.W. by W. It had boon previously ascertained tliat no cun'cnt excited, nor was any found eastward of 0° W. The wind was between S.W. and N.W., flying about in squalls. At nine a.m., on the 14th. Captain Park made the Lizard, bearing N.E., and had the satisfaction to find his chronometer perfectly correct. (111.^ Further Demonstration. — To the preceding development, by Major Uenuell, wo may with propriety add a notice of the loss of La Jeune Emina, of Cher- bourg, eummanued by Chaeelot do Chatillon, in the night of November 28, 1828 \ an A'light-voMHvI liitely placed horo, it is hoped, will avert thiii iniiichiof. """W. 270 OBSERVATIONS ON THF CURRENTS. extraordiaary niid memomblo uuitan«o of the operation of tho current. This veweU of about 400 tons, from Martiniq^uc, was bound to Havre de Grace, with colonial produce. She had, in her passage, encountered several severe gales (we pircsume from the S.W.) and had 8hip})ed two heavy seas. On advancing toward the Englidi Channel, the weather was hazy, and thus continued for several daxf«, so that no obser- vation could be taJccn, and tho reckoning consequently became erroneous. At kngth a Ughthouso was seen, supposed by the captain to be that of Uahontt and a courRo was shaped accordingly ; but this unhappily brought the vessel ,to the Cefn Sidan Satula, witliia the Bar of Cacrmarthcn Harbour, and tho next day became a total wreck, 'fho captain and passengers were drowned, and from a crow of nineteen only six were saved. The narrative states that there is not, perhaps, a beach of this kingdom, where there is a more ftuious sea running, during the prevalence of south-westerly winds, than Cefn Sidan Sands, nor any which has proved moie eminently disastrous to those who have been so unfortunate as to have been driven on them. The event proved that the lighthouse, which had previously been supposed'tol'be that of Unlumt, on tho French coast, was really that of Lundy Island, in the Bristol Channel ; The latitude of Lundy Lighthouse u 51° 10' ; that of Ushant 48' 28'. The difference of latitude between the two is, therefore, 2' 42', or 102 miles ; a difference surely too great to have been effected by merely ordinary circiunstances, but which may, in tho absence of positive infunnation, be assumed as a presumptive proof of tho operation and strength of RenneW a Current. This case is not cited as exhibiting any circumstances which proper precaution could not have avoided, but is here quoted from a multitude of othei*s where the error is on tho same side, and all of which tend to confirm the previous remarks. ■ : EXPERIMENTS ON THE CURRENT. v * (142.) Inhet into the Bay of Biscay. — ^A bottle from the Ladt/ Louisa, bound to St. Michael's, in lat. 45', lung, l.'i' 4u', 2nd February, 1830, found on the coast of Lit, in the province of Bayoniic, 14th of October, in the same year. Channel SoUNDlNoa into the Bay. — Bottle from the brig Hope, tram Havannah, Stst March, 1838, in lat. 60" 10', long. 9' 43' ; wind strong fivm the eastward for three days ; found on tho 1st of June, 1838, on the coast of Rochefort; having probably been first impelled to the S.W. by the ebb tide and prevalent wind, and thence following the general inset to the South and East. Query. — " Why should the sea bo higher, or more dangerouH, in the Bay of Biscay than it is in the middle of tho Atlantic or elsewhere ? Is it really so P are questions often asked. " I believe tY it thei-e is a shorter, higher, ond conKoquently worse Hca, in and near the Bay r-f Biscay, than is often found in other Mhiees, uiid attribute it to tlie effect of immense Atlantic waves rolling into a deep bi^iit, where they close upon ench other, and receive vibratory undulations from each shore; augmented, }H-rhups, by the peculiar formation of the bottom of that bay, the variation in depth, and the effects of currents, which, when running over uneven ground, or against the wuid, nloiie cause a heavy swell t a striking exemnlitication of which may lie seen on the Bank of Agulhas, near the Cape of Good Hope." — VajUain Jf'itzlitiy, vol. ii. p. 45. From CiiANNKL Soundings to tho West of Scotland. -.\ bottle thrown from the ship Dnkt of Marlboiim/h, Captain Jeffcry, by Mr. George Thoni, near the Solo Bank, in lat. 43' 38', long, tt"* W. ; found on the shore of Cnrwiig, near tlie middle of the South side of the Island Mull, 14th April, 1821, and made known by Mr. Hector A4 •insv tiiis buttie wss thrown into the sen, the ship was on its pussH^e to Loiuloi) fmm llie Cape of GimmI Hoih', and an alUiwaiiee wni inttde for eiiiient to the N.W. of 12 luilci to the twenty-lour hours. From the siwt iu which it wa:> RENNELL'S CURRENT. 271 inquaBdonable that the bottle was carried by the current to the "rela dropped, it em:-, West and Norr\ i' Ireland, and thence between Ilti and Mull, to the place in which it was found. It has, therefwe, well answered Mr. Thorn's purpoMU of coitfinmug RennelVa Current. Bay of Biscay to the North of Scotland. — A bottle, enclosing a sone com- posed on board, from the OretA We«tern steamer, on her voyage to New York, at midnight of September 10, 1838, in lat. 48" 3' N., Ion*. 9° 52 W. ; picked up bv Captain Thornton, of the Cores, in passing through the Pentland Frith, on the IGtn of the same month. It must, therefore, have drifted to the north-westward and north- ward, oflf the western coast of Ireland, and thence to the N.E. and East, by the general drift from the Greenland Seas. St. George's Channel. — A bottle from the shin Osnreu, of Glasgow, Alexander M'Gill, master, which sailed from Greenock. Tliis bottle (No. 310.) was thrown into the sea 1st March, 1822, on the ship's return ftora. Calcutta, in lat. 49° 54' N., and long. 12° 20' W. It was found on the shore, upon the South side of Milford Haven, on the 6th of the following month, April. Easterly Current to Bristol Channel. — A bottle from the brig Albert, R. L. Robertson, master, lat. 47° 20' N., long. 22° W., 24th Janiiary, 1822, on the passage from Virginia to England, the wind then about W.N.W., and had so pre- vailed for two or tlirce days. Found in Rockham Bay, about 4 miles West fi-om Ilfraoombe, 29th July, 1822, and attested by the agents to Lloyd's. Bay of Biscay, North Side. — A bottle ttom the ship Oraham Moore, 6th of July, 1821, in lat. 47° 47' N., long. 7° 51' W. ; found, 16th of September, 1821, on the coast of St. Jean de Mont, arrondissement of Sables d'Olonne, department of La Vendee ; and made known by the Journal de Paris. This bottle was imiielled in an E.S.E. direction, the north-westerly current not then prevailing, and was within the influence of the tide. By Captain Livingston's Journal, 28th November, 1820, " It appears that in twenty- four hours, ending at noon of yesterday (on the passage fram Gibraltar), we made about 15 miles North hj current ; and in twenty-four hours, ending at noon this day, about 13 North; and m the two days rather more than 20' £. Therefore about N. 40f E. 37 miles in the forty-eight hours." Inset to, and orTSET from, the Bay of Biscay. — A bottle from the Iris, Captain Skinner, in lat. 47°, long. 21°, 9th Soptomber, 1802 ; found at the Isle of Skye (lat. 67° 15', long. 6° 20), 22nd February, 1803. (Probably carried intt) the bay on an eastern direction, subsequently northwai*d by licnnell's CuiTent, and thence by the eastern drift to Scotland.) The ship Jessie, Bevan, master, left London for the Bahamas, about the 13th of November, 1833. She was struck by lightning and abandoned by her crew, in lat. 45°, long. 14", and on the 6th of February, 1834, drove on the Isle Oroix, near L'Oriont, and was immediately dashed to pieces. Inset ; Bay of Biscay. — A bottle from the Carshalton Park, Lieutenant J. Stctlo r.u>k, 27th July, 1827, in lat. 48" 39', long. 10° 21' ; taken up, 2l8t Debcmber, 1H27, on the shore of Pembron Road, near the Loire, in the Bay of Biscay, lat. 47' 19', long. 2° 30' W. A bottle from H.M.S. Arrow, in lat. 48° 30', long. 9° 26', 14th July. 1838; wuid from S.W. for five days, a fresh gale, and then 8.W. Another bottle fnmi the Maitland, transport, in lat. 49° 6', long. 18° 19', 10th March, 18.')8. Both found, on the 2dth of February, 1830, on the shore of Arcachon, in the bay, lat. about 44° 40' N. A metal cylinder, cast from H.M.S. Chanticleer, Captain H. T. Austin, 3rd of Mny, 1831, ill lat. 44° 381', long. 11° 4' W. ; found near yivero, on the North coast of Spain, l?th of September following, at about 150 miles from the spot where it was dropped into the sea. A bttttlt' from the bark Man/, of London, Abyah Locke, master, 12th of April, 272 OBSBRYATIONS on the CURRENl'S. 1832, in lat. 48° 30', long. 16' 56' ; found on the coast of Jart, lat. 36° 25', 4th March, 1853. Another bottle, from the same vessel, 1th April, 1832, in lat. 46° 15', long. 17° 58' 5 found near Cape Feret, 44° 38 , 2l8t Febi-uary, 1833. A bottle thrown 07er from the Wellington, August 23rd, 1837, in lat. 46° 10' N., long. 12° 58' W. ; thrown on the South coast of the Isle of R6, probably about the end of February, 1838 ; found March 2nd, 1838. Tide Wateb on Soundings.— A bottle from the bark Wallace, of Alloa, bound to Van Diemen's Land, 12th of April, 1835, in lat. 52° 13', long. 15°. Picked up at 5 miles from Ushant, 21st of August. 1835. A bottle tram the Kent, troop-ship, in lat. 50° 20', long. 19° 0' W., August 19th, 1836. Picked up near Cape Blancnez, a few miles from Boulogne, December 20th, in the same year. Bay of Biscay, South Side.— A bottle from the schooner Morning Star, of Liverpool, Captain Andrew Livingston, 7th of October, 1821, lat. 42° 45' 39' N., long. 13° 3' 21" W. Found about 29 miles to the northward of Bayonne, in the arrondissement de Dux, lat. 43° 68' N., long. 1° 20' W., and made known by the di- rection of the Minister of the Marine and Colonies of France in the Moniteur of, January 24, 1822. One of the most singular routes of the kind that we have met with was a bottle covered with barnacles, picked up at the Mizcn Head, on the S.W. of Ireland, Oct. 19, 1837. Its enclosed note stated that it was dropped off Cape Horn, from the Salem, R. Crukers, master, of the United States, in lat^ 53° 3' S., and long. 67° 5' West, on the24thof June, 1830. (143.) The daily rate of the inset into the Bay of Biscay, as estimated from the drift of the bottles quoted in Captain Becher's Chart (131), is as follows : — The num- bers refer to the Bottle Chart in the " Nautical Magazine for November, 1852 — No. 2 (drifted 250 miles), 4-8 miles per day ; No. 3 (230 m.), 3-3 m. ; No 3n, (270 m): 4-5 m.; No. 3 (420 m.), 1-8 m. ; No. 11 (160 m.), 0-7 m. ; No. llo (100), 3 m.; No. 16 (200 m.), 1-2 m.; No. 28 (700 m.), 4'5 m. ? No. 28a (700 m.), 2-2 m. ; No. 33 (660 m.), 4-1 m. ; No. 37a (680 m.), 2 m. j No. 40 (980 m.), 3-1 m. It will be seen that the longest courses have the quickest rates, so that we may suppose that when the bottles become entangled in the shore tides and devious diifts, tuat they do not travel so fast in direct distance. The mean rate of all these bottles is 3-26 miles per day. The rate at which those travel up the English Channel is very much greater, averaging 11 to 14 miles per day. The foregoing are the principal arpunionts and facts upon which the existence of the thwart-channel current is inferred. That there is some cause for the drifting of the various vessels, &c., in a northward and westward direction, there can be no doubt ; nor can there be any doubt that the stream varies both in strength and in direction. Without inquiring into the sufficiency of the cause to produce these effects, or of the correctness of the views promulgated by Mojor Ilcnnell, the fore- going remarks have been repeated, as originally given ; and here we would add that uiey were formed long before any correct knowledge of the tides or of the tidal onrrents was acquired, and also that a very just estimate of the amount of derange- ment of the regular tides, or of the set of tne current across the mouths of the Eng- lish and St. George's Channels, is formed from his dlHsertntions. The remarkable revolution of the tidal streams at the entrance of the English Channel caused by the cross action of that wave proceeding up the English Channel with that of the wave coming northward, has been well developed in the observations discussed by Admiral Beechcy as stated on p. 252. . -1 tf a -«F BETWEEN EUROPE AND AFBICA. 273 2.— THE EASTERLY AND S.E. DRIFT-CUBBENTS TO THE COASTS OF EUROPE ANI AFRICA. (144^ The currents on the shores of the Atlantic seem to have different teodencifiB to the South ai^d North of the English Channel. They are certainly very devious and uncertain ; but idong the West Coast of Irdand and Scotland, as well as on the oAnst, the general set is to the northtcard. Off ^e southern part of tiie Bay of the Say of Biscay tiiere is a well-marked current to the S.E. and aouthteardf not mly during those periods when the westerly winds ha,ve been prevalent, and causing the Rennell's Current last described, but it appears to be constantly n^et with *, and, therefor^, in sailing southward from British ports, this tendency of the waters i^Quld be carefully consiaered, especiaUy when the shores are neai«di for there they nm strongest. (145.) By a careftil calculation of the currents experienc9d by the ships oite4 in Maury's and RennellV Charts, they appear to set with great regularity, and constantly to the south-eastward. The experience of 82 shuts for the year gives a mean diree^ tion and rate of 9-1 miles per day to E. 34° S. for the offii^ of 3S0 miles off Cape Finisterre and the northern part of Portugal. Tlie average of the montJis is greater than this :-^a&uary, 9-4 miltes to S. 4^ East; February. March, April, 11-, 16-9, 12-8 miles per day to E. 24° S. ; May, July, 12'8, 10* mil^s^r d^y S. 25° E. ; A^., October, November, 20-2, 10'5, 16-7 nules per day to S.S.E. T^ew, compared with the drifts of bottles, show that the latter must be affected by surmoe causes, as their rate of travelling is much less.* All these observations are integrated on the Chaijt of the North Atumtio refeired to previously. (146.) In addition to these remarks we give, as in previous editions, the partieuUirf of various bottles and other experiments, which tre very interesting, and ^^rill be serviceable in estimates of what amount of current may be expected in this part of the voyage. South-Eabtbrlt Curbbnt off Channel Soundings.— In Amnwrt;, 1886, Ci^^ Livingston, in the Jane, between lat. 48° 03', long. 16° 7', and Cape Clear, had a set of I" 14' 8. and 1° 54' E. So that in four days the vessel was set, by a counter current. 74 miles 8. and 65 E., or nearly S. 41° E. about 99 miles ; equal to a daily average of 24f ndles. Toward the Bay of Biscay. — The ship CarahaUoH Park, Captain J. Ste«I« Park, on returning from Jamaica to London, m July, 1824, in Jat. 48 , and long. 13^, got into a stream setting to the southward, and which thence operated so strongly against the ship, that some difflculbhr was found in getting sufRcientlyfar to the north- ward for a good Channel track. Tne wind shifted suddenly from S.W. to North ; th> vessel immediately hauled up E. by S. ( and althou^ the weather was fine, ajid thv water quite smooth, she maae no lietter than a true E. by N. course. Captain Park says, " The moon happened to be near the ftill about this time ; and I had opportunities for ascertaining the latitude bv her meridian altitude three or four nights in succession before we made the land ; therefore I could not be mistaken as to tM strength and direction of this current ; for the interval between the observ- ations of sun and moon was only ten or eleven hours ; and the greatest attention wa* paid to the Bteerage."t * Estimating the set of the current by Captain Becher's bottle-cbart mentioned on pnge 260, we set the following :— Bottle No. 7 (drift 500 mil^), 3-2 miles per day ; No. 8, the oaraaae of a dead whale, (220]nil«B), 8 miles; No. 9 (300 miles), 12 miles; No. 18 (250 milea) 4-1 miles ; No. 18 (1,000 miles), 3 miles ; No. 13i (550 miles), 5-5 miles per day, givins an average of neuiy 6 ndles per day. t Ths same snip, on the 10th of July, was on Channel soundings, the latitude by m«ri» dian altitude of the sun, 48<><53' ; the longitude, by chronometer and lunar, 9* 44' aad 9<> 50', reqpeotively. " Kept the s^^ E. | S. and generally East till li.Al p.m.. when, hj^i iuoo&'a meridian altitude, it was found that the latitude was id** 11'. We had gone, during 2 11 274 OBSERVATIONS ON TBE CURRENTS. On THB OOASf OF PoKTVOAL.— A bottle from the brig Hr«eland, Captun T. Midgley (from lirerpool to Africa), in lat. 41° dO' N., loner. 14* 23' W., 11th of Febnunr, 1833. Picked up doae to the shore, off the Harbonr of Vigo, on the lit of March following ; having traversed, in a troe E. | N. direction, abo^t 80 leaguM. *St. Obokge's Channel to Cape St. Vincent.— On the 14th of Angnst, 1823, Captam Livingston, in the sloop limorite, on his passage from Liverpool to Oilnultar, took his departure firom the Smattt lAgMhoute, and thence he regularly made observa- tions > 53" of August 31, with Cape St. Vincent bearing true North, an excellent meridian altitude of the planet Saturn gave lat. 36° 52' 8". The total southing to this point gave 2° 18', and the difference of longitude between dead-reckoning and that by hmdiiai gave 1° 42* T of easting. In the brig Friendt, of Olas^ow, 24th August, 1820, Captain Livingston states — ** The current set us round Cape St. Vincent witiiout our having seen the cape, though we steered courses for the purpose of seeing it, and we were looking out for it, when I got a lunar, and ascertained that we were then past it. Immediately after this the sea became smooth, being broken off by the cape." Between Cape Finistebbe and the Azobes, the general drift of the surfooe of the •qa appeals to be to the south-eastward ; varying, however, to the East and West, and even to the northward, as the winds operate, eiuier one way or the other, more espe- cially during winter, as already noticed. H^M'S. Paetolut, in May, 1816, experienced a current south a little East, at the average rate of 30 miles a day, ft^ tne English Channel to St. Michael's. Captain Charlea Hare, in the brig Ward, fiY>m New Brunswick, Sept., 1823, with westerly urinds, which had prevailed for fourteen days, between lat. 43° 40' and 45* 20', Icmg. 22|* to 16°, found the current E.S.E. 1^ miles in the hour. Between Pobtuoal and the Westebn Islands. — Captain Oeorge Cheveley, June, 1830, lat; 44* to 27°, long. 11° to 21°, current S.E., three quarters of a mile an hour. Captain W. J. Capet, on his passage in the Lady Mackworth, tnm England to the West Indies, in Angnst and September, 1823, found the currents as follow, taking the diip's posituMi at noon :— Aug. 27 Lat. 43* 36' Lon. 12* 40' Current easterly. 19 17 f By good chronometric observation, the our- ''I rent had set 30 miles to the eastward. Current, 10 miles E.S.E. ( Current, 25' easting and 11' southing, by I good observation. Current, 9' to the S. and 14' to the E. No current perceptible in the 24 hours. Current, 26 miles to the southward. Current southerly, 3 or 4 miles. Porto Santo, distant 4 or 5 leagues. 28 . 42 43 . . 12 17, 89 . . 43 41 . . 12 28, 30 . . 41 42 . . 12 28, SI . . 30 3 . . 18 23, Sept. 1 . 38 5 . . 14 17, 2 . . 35 59 . . 15 6, 8 . 34 8 . . 15 55, 4 . . 33 1 . . 16 7, . . 32 22 . . 16 49, this interval of lib. 51m., 68 miles by the log, oareiullv attended to, in smooth water. Now, allowing 3| points of variation, we ought to have quuie 26' of nortiiing ; whereas, in point of foot, we inade 18' only." Influenced, probably, by tUe Channel «bb, the current appeared also to have a tendency i^ tl... Ufa** BETWEEN THE CANARY ISLANDS AND AFRICA. 270 6 Lat. 31« 16' Lon. ir i»' 7 .. 29 28 .. 17 38, 8 .. 28 48 <. 17 26, 2 .. 28 32 .. 17 17, 10 28 9 .. 18 10, 11 27 4 .. 19 41, 12 .. 25 46 .. 21 43, 18 24 44 .. 93 52, Sept 9 Lat. 31* 16' Lon. 17* ^' Corrent, 7 miles to the aoutliinurd. Corrent, 10 miles ditto. Current, 17' S. and 13' E. No observation on current. Current, 16' to the southward. Current, 15' to ditto. < Current, 4' to the S. and 13' W. 8th April, 1823. — Captain JSamlin, in the ship Oeorae IV., on the passage from Qreenock to St. Thomas's, found that thev were much to the southward at dead- reckoning on several days, and during the last twenty-four hours not less than 45 miles. Lat. at noon, 38*. 50', long. 19°, or more than 300 miles E. by N., 61' N., longitude, by aeeouHt, 12° 20'. At ei((ht p.m. the wind shifted to S.W., and in- creased to a gue, with a heavy sea. The convoy stwxl to the 8.S.E., and, at half-past three next morning, struck on the coast of Portugal, m about 40° 22' TS., 3 leagues to the north- ward of Cape Mondego. Captain Dixon, and about sixty men of the Apollo, perished^ in their endeavours to reach the shore ; the other part of the crew remained two aays clinging to a fixed part of the wreck, without nourishment. About forty sail of merchantmen were wrecked about the same time ; some sank with tdl their crews, and most of them lost several men. This lamei^table event has been attributed to want of chronometric observations, and the consequent ignorance of the set of the current, which must certainly have been very strong. " The immediate cause of the loss of so many of the Apollo'i convoy appears to have been the blind confidence with which the commanders followed their cmnmodore ; either keeping no 'reckoning themselves, or believing his more accurate than their own. Beverul ships wore saved by leaving the convoy, and it is said that the commander of a Clyde ship ^^Mtied the sosuncdcrs of uis uHuEer lu time io hi I have avoided it."' — A, L> d7« OBSERyATIONS ON THE CURRENTS. ennentwMeoapMed,bi^hJseliioiioiiMter, toaeialx>ift40 o^ ThoMtvf- rent inclines more eontlierly u it apptoacliM the Oanariee. It itnkM on the oout of Marooco, and takes, abeut Cme Bcriador, a ctiff nvnt dkeotion. Nearly in-shore, from an indefinite point, one part of the stream sets ntnrthward towaid the Strait of Gib- raltar, and the other part sets to the southward. M. le BaroH le Souuin, in the corvette Bayadere, bound from Rochefort to firasil, in February, laiO, after passine Cape Finisterre, found the pre-vaQuig winds from noon to noon and currents as follow :— Feb. 22 . . 42» 43' 38 23 . .40 3 28 24 . .37 3 49 20 . . 34 13 11 26 . .31 9 17 Longitude. IV 40' 6" 13 44 17 13 35 30 14 .10 30 16 14 40 Wmde. N.— W.N.W. N.— N.E. N.E. N.E.— S.E. N. and N.E. CStrretU. S.S.E. 24 miles. S.S.E. 12 — S.S.B.12 — S.E. 6 — S.10*E.12 — But on arriving at the Canaries, with the wind N. and N.E., the current had clianged. On the coarse of the same vessel, from Brest toward BrasU, in October, 1821, the current had set on the last twenty-four hours (October 6), lat 40°. 24' 86", long. 14" 29' 30% S. 15' £. 20 miles } on the three following days, nearly in the same direc- tion, but with less than half the strength. In lat. 35° 20' 50% long. 12' 54' 40' , 15 miles 8. E. In lat. 33' 54', Ion. 12° 4^, it had set only 6 miles 8. 5^ E. ; but, on the next day, in 34° 18' 24' N., and 12° 21' W., 25 miles S. 25° E. ; and again in 34° 14' 34', and 12° 13', South, 20 miles. Off the African coast, lat. 32° 56' 20', long. 13° 16' 20", it had set 32 miles to the S.W., or in a direction nearly parallel with the shore. At about 74 leagues W. | 8. frem Cape Mondego, on the 9th of June, 1790, M. de Humboldt, in the uoop Pizarro, was on his voyage to the West Indies ; and, on this day, in lat. 39° 50', and long. 13° 50', he says that they began to feel the effects of the current setting toward the Strait of Gibraltar, &c. From' the parallel of 37° to that of 33° the vessel was sometimes carried, in twenty-four hours, from 18 to 26 miles to the eastward. The direction oi the current was, at ,first, E. by S. ; but nearer the strait it became due East, and it assumed a more southerly direction on the passage toward Tenerife. '< Several pilots, who freouent the Canary Islands, have found themselves on the coast of Lanzarote, when they expected to make good tiieir land- ing on Tenerilb.'' Thefrioates Sta. Maria de la Cabeza and Lucia sailed from Cadis, 12th April, 1795, and on l£e 17th, at six a.m., they made Point Naga, in Tenerife, when they found, by a comparison vrith their chronometers, that the current had carried them sixty-ttro minutes to tiie eastward. Don Vincente TqHno had, ten years before, proceeded in the Lucia, from Cadiz, for Mogodor s he sailed on the 27th of April, 1785, and on the Ist of May, before mid- day, arrived at the last-named port. On the 6th he sailed from it, ond on the morn- ing of the 8th anchored again in Cadiz. On his voyage out, he found that the cur- i^ent, in four days, luid set him 21| miles S. 18° E., and on his return S. 49° W. 39 miles. This variation of the current shows, that the waters throughout all this ex- tent do notalwaysrun to the S.E., but that they vary, with the line of coast, to the south-westward also. Admiral Don. Oosme de Ckurruea sailed from Cadiz on the 15th of June, 1792, for the purpose of surveying the West Indian Islands and Spanish Main. He took his departure at half-past tluee p.m., in lat. 36° 29' 25 ", and long. 0° 6' 40" W. of Cadiz. In his Journal he says, " It is well known among our seamen, that in the Biffht of Cadiz (that is, the coast comprehended between Cape St. Mary and Cape Tramlsar) there is a current setting constantly to the eastward ; but as, near the shore, the effect of the tide must necessarily be felt, it may also modify the direction of the current. When we established our point of depa^^re, the strength of the ebb had already begun to decrease ; but as, during the early part of the night, we were unable to get BETWEEN THE CANARY ISLANDS AND AFRICA. »J •njr oojMidttalile dktaiioe from tba dboret we comeqaetitljr felt all th* fone of the flood tide setting to the northward t and thia appeara. to hare heen the reaaon wkj we ezperienoed a oonent to the N.E. } tu the cutrent whieh oommonlT aeta hito the Strait of Oibraltar, eomhined with the ttood tide, onght nearly to give that N.E. durectidn. ^ After our departure, and from middaj of the 16th, we sailed with variable winds until the 2lBt, when the wind beoame Axed at N.N.E., and we found that, in tlwtWeBtjr-fbur hours, fWnn the 21gt to tha 22nd, the current had set S. 42° E. 9t miles I though in consequence of uncertainty in tiie dead reckoning, and the Tariabk* ness of the wind, it is possible the error was oontraeted without any cunent { the* situation at midday of the 22ttd being in lat. 30° 18' 61" N., and long. 16° 17' West. The intention was to ascertain the position of the Salvages, which were seen the same evening, and .he then makes uie foUowu^ reflections : — *' The whole enor of lengitade by dead-reckoning was 34' 6'' East ; the sum of aU the errors in latitude, alter various compensations, was about 3' 46' to the North; therefore, the total emnr mads during the voyage was 34' 6 ' to the Eastward, and 3' 46 ' to the Southward i and as if we had expmenced a daUy set of 4 miles S. 82° 36' E." H.M.S. Pimte was once set to the S.E., 98 miles in five days, between Cape Finis- terre and Madeira. B.M.S. Raleigh, August, 1826, found the current from off Cape St. Mary, toward the Strait, to set W. 34'^S. 26 miles in the twenty-four hours. (147.) The following observations on the currents between the Canary and Cape Verde Islanda, have been selected from Commander Maury's " Sailing Directions," 1869, vol. ii. The experience of all the ships whose logs are there recoraed, is nearly unanimous in stating the southerly and eastcitrly drift. Of course the vibration of the Trade winds with the seasons has much to do with the southern limit of this southerly set, as will be seen below : — ShipJ'««ny Pitta, Captain J. L. Snow, December, 27, 1853, lat. 30° 3' N., long. 20° 0' W., current 8 mUes S. by W. ; 28th, 28° 62' N., 18° 10' W., 6 miles S.S.wTj 30th, 26° 26' N., 18° 26' W., 8 miles S. by E. ; January 1, 186^, 19° 51' N., 22° 65' W., 8 itiiles S. by E. ; 2nd, 16° 42" N., 21*23' W., 10 miles S. ; 3rd, 13° 42' N., 22° W., 8 miles S. Ship Margaret Mitchell, Captain T. Jameson, January 11, 1864, lat. 30° 16' N., long. 17° 35' W., 22 mUes R by S. ; 13th, 26° 7' N., long. 20° 24' W., S. 39° W. 14 miles ; 14th, 24° 16' N., 20^ 11' W., 12 miles E. by S. ; 16th, 20° 18' N., 20° 34' W., 18 miles S. } W. Ship Romance of the Sea (W, W. Henry), February 18, 1866, lat. 30° 10' N., long. 18° 10^ W., 14 knot N.E. ; 19th, 29° 20' N., 19° 0' W., li knot N.E. ; 20th, 26° 0' N., 19°28'W.,l\notE.N.E. Ship Ohriana, Captain Henry Toynbee, from London to Sydney, April 22, 1856, 30° 18' N., 19° 20' W., 121 nules g. 6° W. ; 24th, 26° 8' K., 2V 32 W., 8| mUes N. 26' E. J 26th, 23' 38' N., 22° 60' W., 4* miles N. 12° W. ; 26th, 20° 37' N., 24° 22' W., 6* miles N. 16° E. j 27th, 17° 22' N., 26° 4' W., 9* miles S. 67° W. } 28th, 14° 6' N., 26' 23' W., 16 miles S. 60° W.j 29th, 11° 12' N., 26° 36' W., 30 miles 8. 9° W. Ship Resolute CD. McKemde), June 17th, 1864, lat. 29° 64' N., 21° 12' W., 12 miles 8. 60° E. ; 19th, 26° 1' N., 24° 2' W., 12 miles, S. 13° E. ; 21st, 21° 44' N. , 26" 22' W., 12 imles W.S.W. Ship Orion (H. Libbey), July 3, 1866, 29° 6' N., 23° 30' W., 12 miles S. Ship Panther (N. G. Weeks), August 10, 1864, lat. 28° 9' N., 22° 30' W., 12 mfles W.S.W. ; 12th, i3° 32' N., 26' 38' W., 16 miles W.S.W., &c. Note.— The ship was at this time in the N.E. Trades, which have during the summer reached to the higher latitude. Ship Hurricane (St. Very), August 22nd, 1865, lat. 30° 31' N., 18° 0' W., 12 miles S.W.r23rd, 27° 11' N., 19* 15'AV., 8 miles S. | W. ; 24th, 23° 60' N., 19° 25' W., 11 miles S. by W.; 26th, 21' N., 19|' W., 6 miles S. * W. : 26th, 18" 4' N., 10" 4o W., 7 miles S. J W. 278 OBSERVATIONS ON THE CURRENTS. milMS.; BuqiM Mea (B; Buxton), August 17, 1869, lat. 26° 41' N., 21* 14' W., 12 18th, 23° 16' N., 22° 64' W., 8 ^les S. Barque AtOer (E. Thiel), October, 27, 1849, lat. 26° 17' N., 23° 33' W., 27 8. 31° v., two days; 30th, 18° 13' N., 26° 49' W., 18 milM 8.W. \ 31it, 16° 46' N., 26° 36' W., 12 miles S. W. i ^. (trade wind). Ship Colorado (Bicker), October 19th, 1866, lat. 31° 16' N., 16° 49' W., 12 miles S.E. I 20th, 28° 33' N., 18° 47' W., 24 miles S.S.E.i 21st, 26° 16' N., 20° 11' W., 12 mUes S.W. ) 24° 22' N., 21° 16' W., 6 miles, S.W. (1470 Mr. James Grey Jackson, in his valuable <' Account of the Empire of Ma- rocoo,"* has stated, that the coast, between the latitudes of 20 and 32 degrees North, is a desert country, interspersed with immense hills of loose sand, which are, ttaok time to time, driven by tJw wind into various forms, and so impregnate the air with sand, for many^ miles out to sea, as to give the atmosphere an appearance of hasy weather) navigators, not aware of this circumstance, never suroeet, during sucn appearances, that they are near land, until they discover the breakers on the coast, which is, in some parts, so extremely flat, that a person may walk a nule into the sea without being over the knees ; so that ships strike when at a consideteble distanojB finnn the beadi ; added to this, there is a current, which sets in firom the West toward Afirica with inconceivable force and rapidity, with which the navigator being sene- ndly unacquainted, he loses his reckoning, and, in the course of a mttht, pernaps, when he expects to clear the African coast, in his passage southward, he is alarmed with the appearance of shoal water ; and, before he has time to recover himself, finds his ship aground on a desert dkore, where neither habitation nor human being is visible, fa this state his fears are soon increased by a persuasion that he must either perish in fighting a horde of wild Arabs, or submit to become their captive ; for soon after a ship strikes, some wandering Arabs, strolling from their doar in the desert, perceive the masts from the sancUulls ; and, without coming to the shore, repair to their horde, perhaps 30 or 40 miles off, to apprise them of the wreck, when they^ im- mediately assemble, arming themselves with daggers, guns, and cudgels. Sometimes two or three dajrs or more elapse before they nuke ueir appearance on the coast, where ^ey await the usual alternative of the crew either deuvering themselves up* rather th* perish with hunger, or throwing themselves into the sea. (148.) But to resxune the description of the currents : — ^M . de Flburiec, in his illustrations of the voyage of Etienne Marchand, states, that in a run which ho him- self made, in 1768-69, in the Isis frigate, from Cadiz to Tenerife, by a direct course, and with a steady breeze firom N.E. to E.N.E., he had an opportunity of ascertaining the constant effect of the current, which sets to the eastward so long as a ship sails in the tract of sea situated to the westward of the Strait of Gibraltar, and at a little distance firom it, during the four davs employed in this run. On the first day, the current had set to the eastward llf ; on the second day, 12f ' ; on the third, 9|' ; on the fourth, 1' ; when the current ceased, in lat. 31°, to be perceptible. Therefore, during the first three days, the movement impressed on the ship to the eastwEurd, carried her toward that sicDe 33|', or 37f miles ; and, by a mean, e.bout 8 miles in twenty-f^ur hours. — ( Voyage de Plats, en 1768 et 1769.) The ship of 3f. Marchand, named the Solide, left Cape Spartel, bearing South, on the 29th of December, 1790, and made the Peak of Tenertfe, bearing S. 6|° E. about 36 leagues distant, on the dth of January, 1791. In this time it was found that a current had set the ship 39 miles E. 13° S., equal to a mean drift of 6*8 miles per day of twenty-four hours. From the 6th to the 9th of January, inclusive, when the ship, on the latter day, was in lat. 21° 24', long. 19° 26° (firom Greenwich), it was found that the current had * London, quarto, 1800. See, also, the affecting " Narrative of the Shipwreck and Cap- tivity of M. de Brisson," in 1787 ; and that of Robert Adams, wrecked in the American ship CharUt, John Horton, master, 1810. The latter is noticed move particularly, with others, in the Description of the Coasts of Africa, hereafter. BETWEEN CAPE FINISTERRE AND THE CANARY ISLANDS. S79 set her fiO| miles E. ISf" S., being at a mean rate of 12} milea in twenty-fom" hours. Between lat. 21° 24', long. 19° 26' ^as above), and the l8le of Mayo, during an in- terval of five days, the ship was earned, by the current, 35^ miles W. 30}° 8., or at the mean ratn of 7*1 miles in twenty-four nours. In July, 1702, the Sonde returned to the westward and northward of the Azores ; and, on uie parallel of 41° 42', at the distance of about 2° North of Corvo, she had a set in one day of 9 miles S. 29°. E. Proceeding thence toward Lisbon, she appeared to have a set, in three days, of 27 miles W. 19 S., equal to 9' per day in that direc- tion ; but, in the following six days, from the N.E. of the Azores to Cape St. Vincent, the current set 74 miles £. 2fi|° S., equal to 12*3' per day ; and between Cajpe St. Vincent and Cape Spartel, in forty-two hours, she found an indraught of 30 miles £., equal to 17|' per day, setting toward the Strait of Gibraltar. Africa. — ^The ship Monteeutna, of Liverpool, Knubley, master, sailed on the 26th of October, 1810, for Brazil, but was wrecked on the 23rd of the next month, at three a.m., on the Afiioan coast, somewhere between Capes Noon and Bejador. Among the crew, who were taken and sold by the Arabs, was Alexander Scott, an apprentice : this person was detained in the country for nearly six years ; and a very interesting account of his captivity, drawn up by Dr. Traill, with ffeographical ob- servations on his routes, and remarks on the currents which produced the catastrophe, by Migor Rennell, were given in the fourth volume of the Edinburgh PhUotopniectl Journal. As these remarks give a very clear notion of the movement of the waters, derived tram observation, which have not since been contradicted or superseded, we repeat them as heretofore. Majob. Renn ell's Remasks on the Currents between Cape Finisterrb AND THE Canary Islands. (149.) '< I should consider myself highly culpable, if I neglected to state, by way of caution to navigators, the result of my inquiries respecting the currents which appear to have caused the shipwreck of the Montezuma, and of a g^reat number of other snips of our own and other nations, on the western coast of Barbary ; having examined a multitude of journals of ships that have sailed in that track, with timekeepers on board, and which have also, when opportunities presented themselves, had their rate checked by celestial observations. " The general result is, that navig^ators, who depart from the parallel of the southern part of t£e Bay of Bengal (or say 45°), and sail in the usual track southward, will be assdled first by a 8.E. current, and then by an easterly one, until they have passed the parallel of^Cape Finisterre ; when the cuirent will again turn to the South of East, and gradually become a S.E. current, till, having passed Cape St. Vincent, it becomes easterly again ; owing, no doubt, to the indraught of the Strait of Gibraltar ; and this easterly current is pretty general across the mouth of the bay, between Cape St. Vincent ana Cape Cantin. ** Beyond this bay (which may be termed the JUnnel, of which the strait itself is the ^tout) the current again becomes S.E., or rather more southerly (as it is more easterly toward Cape Finisterre), and continues as for as the parallel of 2d°, and is, moreover, felt beyond Madeira westward; that is, at least 130 leagues from the coast of Africa ; beyond which a S.W. current takes place, owing, doubtless, to the opera- tion of the N.E. trade-wind. " The rate of motion r grant«d that the whole surfoce of that part of the Atlantic Ocean, from the parallel of 40° to ili°,»i least, and to 100 to 130 leagues offshore, is in motion toward the mouth of the Straii >>f Gibraltar. " According to what has been said, in the course of the above remarks, it must be exported that a riiip i>)re token from the shore, saved from captivity by Cananan fishing-boats, and oon- v«yed to the Grand Canary, where they were landed on the 7th of mvember. Sudi have been, even within a few years, the effects of the current ! The preceding description of the cTUTcnts between the £.,;;:!;?? Chft juel and Canary Islands was corroborated, in 1826, bj Japtain R. H. Newb-.7t\ t''*' V '.raleon sch ., which left Dartmouth on the 2l8t of July, and was set tf ■ "• ■•■ ». if", :?' ' ll of l«ckuuing, while crossing the Bay of Biscay, 1" 2r'of longitude in ioi.,y-oight hours. On Mon- day, the 2dtii of the same montii, the entrance of Ribadeo bore S.W. by compass, about 1 5 miles, and the vessel was then in about 6° 55' West. menu schc inci" ffect of the easterly current was proved by the bearing of a remarkable *-i7and. and some whitish cliffs on the shore ; and Captoin Newby says, the . 1 ' X\"3n^ to the eastward as fast as I have noticed a ship to lose ground * WCliotn Willshire, Esq., 'im English Consul at Mogodor, to whose active goodness Scott and man^ otiiersoved ttieir deliverance from slavery. — Eo. BETWEEN CAPE FINISTERRE AND THE CANARY ISLANDS. 281 to the eastward while standing innshore off Beaohey Head daring a atrong flood tide and moderate westerly breeze. At about five p.m. the wind veerod to the N.E., and even then, although tne vessel was going at the rate of 3| knoto through the water, she made vei^ litue way to the westwuid till toward aim-down, when the breeze freshened to 7 or 8 knote. During the n^^ht, passed C'n.ne Ortt.>gul and the next morning, at mx a.m., the light-tower at the entrance ol tbrunna bore South. It didnot app^ that the current relaxed in strength betwoen the time of observ- ing the inland objecto, and that when the wind freshened. Mr. N. adds, that is the third time he has experienced its effect, without ever perceiving it to set at all to the westward. The last time previous was on the 9th and 10th of September, 1835. At thr^e p.m., July 27th, 1836, Cape Finisterre bore E.S.E. by compass [true Eaaf], , when the current had set to the southward about 14 miles, as frequently found on the Portuguese coast at this season of the yeai'. July 28 to August 1, inclusive, variable weather and north-easterly windft to lat. 29° 15°, long. b}r aooount, 19" 52' W. On the 1st of August it was found that the schooner had missed Madeira in her attempt to make and pass the West end of that island, and at one pjn. the dark, bold, northei-n end of Falma came in sight tcova. under a dispersing cloud, and bearing by compass about W.S.W., distant 7 leagues. Upon g^ing over the last two days' work, it appeared that, ir ^tead of passing, as supposed, to the westward of Madeira, the Napoleon was actually without a signt of the island to the eaattoard, and had the vessel been involved in fog, or have been bound to Lanzarote or Forteveutura, and steering, by reckoning, a fair course for them, the consequence must have been that she womd have fiidlen mto broken water when least least expected, or have grounded on the main shore, somewhat betwt en Cape Ghir and Cape Noon, and property, if not life, would have been lost. It is, moreover, to be observed, that the sea had been, for the most part, comparatively smooth ; had there been a stix)ng N.W. swell, such as is commonly felt toward the mouth of the Strait of Gibraltar, then the vessel must have been set farther to the eastward of her reckoning. After making the North end of Palma, the breeze continuing rather light at N.E., the vessel hauled on a W.N. W. course, in order to get the westward of the island, and so as to avoid the risk of getting into the calms or eddy winds to leeward of it ; but up to sunset she made very slow progress westward ; the swell was short and cross from the northward, and there appeared to be a sti'ong current fr'um the N.W. toward the island, and the captain round it necessary to steer N.W., but still the vessel was found to be approachmg the North side of tne island. At nine p.m. he beg^ to be alarmed at his proximity to land i braced up the yards and trimmed sails by the wind, but the breeze died away so light, and the swell kept up m cross, that at ten it was thought the vessel must be driven upon the island, unless a Bp<}t could be found for the anchor to take hold of; but, in about half an hour after, it was found that they had gained a different stream of current, and the vessel was visib y set frx>m a S.S.E. to a S.W., or to the westward of a S.W., direction ; and after passing ahead- land which appeared in the night to be the N.W. part of the island, and sloping toward the sea, the breeze again freshened, and the vessel increased her distance from the black and inaccessible-looking shore of Palm. Captain FitzBoy, in H.M.S. Beagle, January 13, 1842, says : — " In consequence of a thick haze, ver>- prevalent about the CaJM Verde Islands, land was not distinctly seen until we were within three miles of it, and we then found ourselvefe rather too far westward, owing to a current setting toward the West, at the rate two knote an hou( ; this was close to the North point of St. lago. Next day we anchored in PortPrava." •- **!■ .'A.^'iiV ■>'^->-**^ . . *i:. S»-#^<;**/4 •:; k. 2 y 282 0BS1??IVAT10NS ON THE CURRENTS. -,.. .\} (150.)— The Babon Rovssin's Remarks on the Cvrbbmts between Cape bojadob and the isles de los. The ^neral currents on the African coast, between Cape Bojador and the Isles de Los, with the exception of some }>laces subject to a more or less resnilar tide, are uni- form during the eight months which comprise the fine season. They follow e? ictly the trend of the coast from North to South. JVwfi Cape Bojador to the Bau of St. Cyprian (lat 22° 20) they therefore set to the S.S.W., from that bay to Cape Blanco ; and along the whole extent of the Bunk of Arguin to its western point, which is in the parallel of 20° 6' 20" N., they set S. by W. To the southward of tiiis point the waters, being no longer guided by the edge of the bank, which turns abruptly to the S.E., do not follow in a body, within a certain space, any fixed or determined direction. One part of their mass experiences a number of irregular windings, until, finding itself in the active body of the general current, which Left the bank at its most salient point, it rejoins it, and is carri^ on as before. In the vicinity of Tanit Bay, in the parallel of 19° 10' N., it again resumes its foimer direction, (tnd follows the trend of the coast, thus setting to the southward as far as the two Palms, near Portandik, and from thence S.S.W. tothe Marigot of Mus- quitoes. It then sets S. \ W., till abreast of the Bar of the Senegal, where, in a space of 4 leagues in circumference, it is diNturbcd by the stream of that river. This stream is so strong as to oblige vessels at the anchorage off the bar to tend to it, in spite of the strongest winds. The current, joined by the waters of the Senegal, pur- sues its course along the coast, which trends to the S.W., observing a very gentle curve, which forms the Bay of Yof, and which terminates at Cape Verde. The strong currents hitherto pretended to set into the Bay of Yof are, therefore, merely chime- rical, and the depth given to this bay in all the charts is no less so. Cape Verde being the most western point of AfHca, and hence forming an obstruction to the genenu direction of the waters which flow along that coast, must occasion a great variety of currents in its vicinity. It is, in fact, wnat takes place, and it would, therefore, be difficult to define a pai'ticular one. This only appears certain : vessels passing in sight of Cape Verde are not cirried on it, as is generally supposed j but, on the con- trary, they are swept off by the prevailing tendency which the watei-s have to flow to seaward. In running close to the Almadic Rocks, this repulsion is sensibly felt during the eight months which I have mentioned : it appears that the current rushes between the rocks, and spreads itself in different directions. Immediately to the southward of Cape Verde the current is almost imperceptible, and it is scarcely possible to assign any particular direction to it as far as Cape Naze. The whole of tne coast lying between this cape and Cape Manual forms a well- defined bay, totally free from current, and in which there is not a single river. The same is observed with respect to the roadstead of Gorcc, although, according to the observations of Mr. Adunson, a i-cgular tide exists there, with a rise and fall of 2 feet 6 inches. In the ofllng of Cape Verde the current has been always found to set to the southward. From Cape Naze it again follows the direction of the coast, inter- rupted only at the mouths of the principal rivers, which lie between this cape and Cape Roxo. From this point, localities of a very different nature pi'oducc particular effects in the current. The Arciiipelago of the Bissagos here succeeds the straight coast which extends to the nortnward. Large rivers empty themselves amongst these islands, fon""ng various channels, more or less encumbered with sand-banks. These obstacles cause a variety of currents, which will be explained when treating on the Bissagos. Strenyth of the General Current. — The rnte of the general current on the Africnn coast, dcdticed from numerous ob8cr>ations, has never exceeded a mile and five-tenths per hour on the coast itself, and on the outer edge of the banks : and morfi frannpntl\- it has been found from seven to nine-tenths of a mile. This is dimiiiished one-third, and frequently one-half, at a distance of 4 leogiies from the const. Siiould u vessel THE AFRICAN OR GUINEA CURRENT. 28^ have ron past her ^rt, there is no fear of her stemming this current, and, lay long boards, easily regaining her destination. In the rainy season, which is from the commencement of June to the end of October, as the winds blow from various directions, the currents are no longer regular, and it is impossible to establish any positive law respecting them; but, even under these circumstances, their strength is not so great, but that it may be surmounted. 3.— THE AFRICAN OR GUINEA CURRENT; f BEING AN EASTERLY STREAM ACE08S THE ATLANTIC, AND ALONG THE COAST OF AFRICA, INTO THE BIGHTS OF BENIN AND BIAFRA. (151.) In the description of the winds (6.) p. 179, and (49, 60.) p. 201, it is shown that between the N.E. and S.E. trade-winds there is a belt of calms and variable winds, which on the African coast assume the character of monsoons, as during the Hummer months especially the wind blows more or less toward the African coast. In the currents there appears to be an analogous system, as there is an easterly current flowing with considerable velocitj eastward, in an opposite direction to the great equatorial drifts on either side of it. Its existence and chuacter along the Guinea coast has been long known, hence the name applied to it ; but the origin of the current does not appear to have been well luderstood hitherto. It has been sup- posed that it is a continuation of that current which we have just described as pass- ug southward from Western Europe. (152.) But in tracing the currents of the Pacific Ocean,* we fiod that there exists a precisely similar current in that great ocean setting into the Bay of Panama, in the same latitude. This current is traced very far to the westward — m fact, nearly across the ocean. In a similar way it can be shown that this Guinea current, instead of being limited westward by the Canary Islands, has its origin, or a portion of it, nearly over on the coast of South America. This is almost certain as regards the summer and autumn months, as this easterly drift is almost always encountered between latitudes 4° and 8° N. over the whole breadth of the Atlantic. This, therefore, is the origin of the main body of the Guinea current, which is doubtless increased by the southcrlv curi-ent before alluded to, and which in itself is but a continuation of the easterly urift from the gulf stream. We are not yet quit© in a position to speculate on the cause of this seeming anomaly, becouse the current is strong and persistent, not weak and variable as the winds which blow over it. As we as yet know very little of those subsurface actions which must play a very important part in the great circulation of ocean waters ; it must be reserved for more extended experiment to enable us to pronounce absolutely un its real character. ( ing f'HCtS (154.) Cupt. 11. T. Walter, barque P/mwtom, says : — In July, 1853, between lat. b" and 8" N., and about long. 36" and 38" W., the current set us fast to the eastward. Again, in August, 1854, about the same latitude and longitude, the current set is 110 rnUes N.N.E.m three davs. Capt. Millet writes :— Dec. 25, 1855,^^4" N., long. 'ISV W., have experienced an easterly current these last two days. I have always noticed such along these latitudes, sometimes more to the northward than this, and in lat r N., and long. 44". 153.) Commencing with the ordinrrj' westernmost part traversed by vessels cross- tho equator, we select from Commander Maury's Sailing Directions the following Sec Pacific Diroctory, by A, 0. Findlsy, Part 11, p. 1213-1247. 284,;' OBSERVATIONS ON THE CURRENTS. ' We have here examples at opposite seasons of this current in tlie western ciXMssing of ^the Atlantic. Ship James Brown (Capt. C. W. Kerlin), Jan. 12, 1856, lat. 8° 43' N., long. 31" 37' W. : current 20 miles East. 13th, lat. 6° 30' N., lone. 30° 21' W. : 28 miles East. Crossed the equator on the 16th, and experienced norm-westerly current. Ship Margaret Mitchell, Jan. 23, 1854, lat. 4° 36' N., long. 22° 25' W. : 13 miles E. by S. 24th : lat. 3' I' N., long 22° 30' W., S. by E. 20 miles. Ship Oravina (C. Sprague), March 4, 1856, lat. 2° 48' N., long. 26° 46' W., S. 34» East, 17 miles. 6th : lat. 1° 22' N., long. 27° 43' W., 12 miles N. by E. Barque Eglantine (Gleason), April 7, 1855, lat. 11° 28' N., long. 24° 25' W. : current setting to eastward, though tne ship was steering S. by W. ^ W. Ship MaryL. Sutton (P. E. Rowland), AprU 24, 1866, lat. 16° 4' N., long. 33" 30' W. : current E. 45 miles. _'5th, lat. 12' 40' N., long. 32° 32' W. : East 10 miles. 26th, lat., 9° 22' N., long. 31° 20' AV. : East 10 miles. (This is more to the northward than usual.) Ship ^cto« (D. McLaughlin), May 18, 1856, lat. 5° 43' N., long. 24° 44' W. : 24 miles E. by N. 19th, lat. 3° 39' N., long. 24° 44' W. : 14 mUes E.N.E. 20th, lat. 2° 56' N., lone. 24° 0' W. : 15 miles E.N.E. 2l8t, lat. 2° 16' N., long. 23° 34' W. : 15 miles E.NTE. 22nd, lat. 1° 20' N., long. 25" 15' W. : 10 miles N.E. Ship Edwin Flye (W. Flye), June 27, 1856, lat. 5° 38' N., long. 26° 17' W. : 'H H° E., rate 1-2 miles per hour. 28th, lat. 4° 6' N., long. 27° 29' W. : N. 18° E., v • uo per hour. 29th, lat. 3° 52' N., long. 25° 12' W. : N. 22° E., rate 1-3 mile per h')Ui\ Ship Paw)\t w, currpnt N.E. 1 mile. 28th, lot. .V 21 N., long. 29^ .W W. : ciment N.K. 1 mile. 29tli, Int. THE AFRICAN OR GUINEA CURRENT. 28ff. 6"10'N.,long. 80'0'W. N.E. 2 miles. current N.E. 2 miles. 30th, lat. 4« 40' N., long. 30^ 0' W. Ship Rahert Patten (G. S. Paine), Oct. 30, 1866, lat. lO" 14' N., long. 33<» 50' W. : " tiremendouB tide rips, the strongest I ever saw." Oct. 31, lat. 8° 26' N., long. 32° 28' W. : current cluinges to eastward | knot per hour. Ship Scargo (N. CroweU), Oct. 4, 1856, lat. 6" 53' N., long. 26" 13' W. : 24 miles East. 6th, lat. 6° 26' N., long. 24° 42' W. : 18 mUes E. by S. 6th, lat. 6° 36' N., long. 24° W. : 18 miles E. by S. 7th, lat. 4° 48' N., long. 23° 29' W : 18 miles E. by S. , Schooner Thomas A. Ward {J. D. Hoff), Oct. 12, 1856, lat. 6° 6' N., long. 27° 40' W. : the last twenty-four hours have been the most calm that ever I saw, not a breath from any quarter, and a terrible rolling sea. We drifted S.E. 36 miles. Ship Colorado (Ricker), Nov. 1, 1855, lat 6° 61' N., long. 21° 64' W: current 20 mUes S.E. 2nd, lat. 6° 22' N., long. 20° 56' W. : 29 miles S.E. Barque Chra (E. Cook, jun.), Dec. 9, 1864, lat 6° 48' F., long. 26° 66' W. : 1-3 knots per hour N 36° E. 10th, lat. 6° 9' N., long. 27° 67' W. : 1 knot N. 62° E. 11th, lat, 6° 10' N., long. 26° 46' W. : 0-8 knot N. 37° E. r- • ^ ' ■ ' The foregoing are the principal notices of this easterW current as recorded in Capt. Maury's Sailing Directions, vol. ii., eighth edition, and, In fact, is nearly all that is mentioned on currents, as but very few, if any, of the abstract logs quoted in that work mentioned any westerly or other currents, the only exception being that in some very few cases a northerly set is noticed. Besides this, there is frequent mention of current or tide rips, often of a very formidable character, denoting great activity and change in the currents of this troublesome region. (155.) The easterly current thus passing across the Atlantic strikes the coast of Africa about Sierra Leone and the coast of Liberia. Of course, when near the shore, it assumes its direction to the S.E., and runs with great velocity. As is shown by the Chart of the Currents at page 259, its mean annual velocity is between 14*1 miles and 26'6 miles per day, strongest in the summer months. Its mean direction off Cape Palmas and Cape Coast Castle is E. 12° N., and its calculated velocity from Major RennoU's and Maury's observations is — for January, 17"4 miles to 27"6 miles; February, 26 miles to 32 miles; April, 11'6 to 33.7 milep* May, 22-7 miles to 36 miles ; June, 30 miles ; July, 18-2 miles ; August, 15-7 miles to 26'4 miles per day. These are from the records of 75 ob8cr>'ations. (166.) Its southern edge appears to be in about 2^" to 2° N. up to the head of Bight, and as the southern streams set in an opposite direction, they are serviceable in making a return passage as presently explained. The temperature of the Guinea current is high, and demonstrates its equatorial origin, although the bronch of it which comes from the northward past Cape Verde has probably a lower temperature as coming from a higher latitude. The equatorial current to the southward of the Guinea current is also of a lower temperature, coming direct along the African coast from the southern polar regions. The mean summer temperature is about 78°, but in our winter and autumn months it is higher, being from 82"6'' to 83" as a mean, and sometimes it is found higher than this. (167.) At the distance of about 60 leagues South of Cape Palmas (long. 7^" W.) the outer border of the Guinea current settt to the East; and the same direction of it continues to a similar distance South of Cape Three Points (long. 2° W.) ; we thence, at T North of the Line, find it take a more northerly course, toward the Bight of Benin and the Bight of Biafra ; in the latter it mixes with the waters of the South African Current, which, coming from the South, set thence to the North and N.VV., and both, uniting, form a head in the bight. From this h'\aht and southward of the Equator the currents thus blended set to the S.W., W.N.W., and NW., in one ex- piuKling and united streuni, wliich grentlj- facilitates the passage of ships from Fer- nando I'« to Sitrra Lcinic. Tlif prevalence of the lluinmttun wind, which hus been described (p. 203), mu^t 286 OBSERVATIONS ON THE CURKENTS. interrupt the course of this current ; but its existence, at other times, nearly as described, has long been confirmed, and is incontestable. (158.) Near Cape Mount the cturent sets in toward the shore as above stated. The ship Charles, a French whaler, in 1833, was wrecked on the coast of Liberia, at about 30 leases to the S.E. of Cape Mesurado, probably on the reefs near the River Sestros. Thw vessel had left the poi-t of Havre for the fishery near Triatan da Cunha, in the Southern Ocean, but the captain, while intending to run along the coast beyond Cape Palmas, in the hope of falling in with whales, unfortunately lost his reckoning, by being deprived, for forty-eight hours, of all means of taking ob- servations : and was moving at the estimated rate of 7 miles an hour, when he foimd himself close on shore in the midst of breakers, which in the course of the night forced him on the reef and dashed the ship to pieces. The captain and crew got mie to land, but were soon stripped by the blacks, and the captain himself left without covering. In this condition they made their way along the shore to the N.W., until they reached Cape Mesurado, where they were received with all kindness by the colonial agent of Liberia, who sent them m a small government schooner to the Isle Goree. The catastrophe is e^'idently attributable to this easterly cuiTent. On the western side of Cape Palmas it sets along shoi'e with such force to the S.E., that ships which do not steer a point nearer than the true course will be carried from the land!. About Cape, Three Points, likewise, the stream runs strongly to the eastward, and frequently sets directly in upon the reefs about that cape. Eastward cf this cape the current has carried many experienced mariners, bound to Cape Coast or Annamaboe, to leeward of those ports, and occasioned much trouble, with delay, in beating up again. About Terra Formosa, in July and August, the current has also been found to set strongly to the eastward. (169.) The Equatorial Current, which sets from the Bight of Biafra, and then westerly to the southward of the Line, has been illustrated, as already explained, in our " iJirectory for the Ethiopic Ocean," by Mr. Jas. Finlaison. That gentleman has shown how, by taking advantage of it, ships may efi'cct, without difficulty, a passage from the bight to Sierra Leone, His instructions are as follow : — " Ships bound from the Bight of Biafra to Sierra Leone, if from Calabar River, when the wind does not permit them to proceed by the N.W. of Fernando Po, may pass between that island and Camaroens River, when they will find a strong current setting to the southward, out of the River Del Rey. After they have advanced to the southward of Fernando Po, they nust endeavour to make all tno southing and west- ing they can ; passing either to the eastward or northward of Prince's Island, as winds will peimit. On the East side of this island the current sets strongly to the southward, at the rate of a knot and a half; westward of Prince's Island, it gene- rally sets strongly to the N.E. at the same rate.* " Having arrived to the southward of Prince's Island, if the ship will lie no higher than W.N. W., tack immediately, and try to cross the Line j for by so doing you will keep out of the strong N.E. current that sets toward the Bights of Benin and Biafra. After you have crossed the Line, j'ou will find that you arc nearly out of the easterly current. In the ;parallel of V South you will find tne current set to the westward, at the rate of one mile an hour. In the month of May or June, when the sun has a high declination, the trade-wind is far to the southward, and you will not gain the regular breeze nearer than in 3° South. This breeze commences from S. by W. As you make • In the last edition of the Denotero de la^ Antilla* tho following remarks are said to have been found among the piipors of tho docoiisotl Admiral Don Josef Varola. " At Prince's Ifllund, and in itiivi, unity, the waters g«mprHlly run to the North, which cirruin- Btiinco ought to bo kopt in mind in making tho Jslunu and stoering for tho anchoriigo. There aro also currontn to tho South, but thoy are not ho strong, or of so long duriition. The pilots of tho placo lay that the currents dopond on tho phiiHus of ♦ho moon, but we fouiulthat thoy worn irrogular." From this wo may infer that, thi'ro is somo irrogularity in tho outset or revolving current ; for which, coMNoqUoiiiiy, tivtiry precaution shouid be taken. THE AFRICAN OR GUINEA CURRENT. 287 westing, the wind will be found to haul more to the southward and eastward, and the current increases to the rate of 1| knots in an hour, until you arrive as far to the westward as 15" West. On proceeding hence to Sierra Leone, come no &rther to the eastward than 15° West, untu you are as £bt to the northward as 8° 30' N. ; then you may steer boldly in for the cape. You will strike soundings in that parallel in 14° 40' W. ; and as you approach the cape the soundings will be found very irregular, from 20 fathoms to 12 at a cast. You will then be 7 leagues from the cape, and in the fair track of the river. " Having given these directions to our prize-master, they generally made the passage from Fernando Po and Bonny in five weeks ; merchant vessels have frequently been three months, by keeping in shore." (160.) In his investigation of the Guinea Current, Major Rennell says : " I have now brought vou to the Cape Verde Islands, by what is called the Outer Passage, and which is to be preferred, at all seasons, for ships bound to the southward ; because, even when the S.W. monsoon prevails,* between lat. 15° and the Equator, and you are compelled to go to the eastward (between June and September, you will be farther to windward, and will have a more steady wind, and favoiirable current to the S.E., than near the coast of Sierra Leone, &c. But if you are bound to Sieri'a Leone you will of course keep a southerly course from the Canary Islands (Palma and Ferro), and you will find a favourable current the whole way to that place. Although yon will, at this season, carry a fair wind with you to Sierra Leone, yet it may be proper to inform you that, within the space, lengthwise, between Cape Verde and Cape Mesurado, and in certain places to the extent of 70 leagues off shore (50 off Sierra Leone), a regular change of winds and currents takes places, according to the seasons ; that is to say, a N.E. or North wind and S.E. current from September to June ; and, in the rest of the year, S.W. wind and N.E. or northerly currents, in effect, a tnoiuoon ; and this extends, in respect of the winds, nearly through the whole space between the two continents. The current in the offing, in the parallels South of Cape Roxo, \2\' N., continues its course, gradually bending more and more to the south-eastward, till about the latitude of 5° N. it turns decisively to the East; and running with considerable rapidity, sometimes at the rate of 2 knots, it ranges along the whole coast of Guinea until it is partly dissipated in the Bight of Benin, &c. The Ouinea Current may be taken at 60 leagues in breadth ; its greatest rapidity is dming the season of S.W. winds in the sea lying West of Sierra Leone and South of the Capo Verde Islands. (161.) Bottles. — We have not many bottle experiments on this current. One is curious. A bottle from the ship Kinnear (Captain Kelsall), thrown over May 15th, 1843, in lat. 6" 1' N., long. 24° o W., was picked up near the River Nunez on the 58th July, following ; the direct distance is 650 miles, which in 74 days shows a daily rate of 9 miles. Another bottle from the same ship thrown over a week before 127 miles due north (lut. 8° 8' N.), was picked up 86 days afterwards on August 12, 1843, at Poraiba, on the Braziliap coast, the direct distance would give it a daily rate of above 14 miles per day, but as it went probably to westward and thence southward its rate was greater. These two bottles show the limits of the Equator and Guinea Currents. A bottle from the Windermere, thrown over in lat. 4° 6' N., long. 20° 0' W., on August 20, 1850, was picked up at Lahou, on the Ivory coast, on March 6, 1851. A direct course would make its rate 4*5 miles per day, but as it was probably curried by the Equatorial Current till caught in the Guinea Current, we cannot argue muuh» except that it is an evidence of the direction of the Guinea Current. • The term Monsoon, or rather Moitaoon, among the native mariners in the Imliim Ocotin, iu said to mean notliing moro than setuoit ; that is, tho vicisBitudoa or changes of 80I18OI1. Bv a partial mnmonn is meant a periodical wind, or stream of uir, which doon not extend all the way acrbss the sen, as on the coats of Brazil, Africa, &c. 288 OBSERVATIONS ON THE CURRENTS. lat. V 13' S., Grand Cestros, lat. bnd forwarded to England by Captain Penrice, of the brig Meg MerriUea, belonging to the same owner. This was probably carried on a circuitous route to the westward by the stream South of the Line ; and thence to the North and N.E. by the in-shore current. ..?;■ 4.— THE SARGASSO SEA. (162.) The central portion of the Atlantic, that is comprised between the Trade wind and Anti-trade wind systems (19), p. 184, also boimaed on the south by the westerly drifts of the Trade winds, and to the north by the easterly current, presently described, appears to be a different physical condition to the other portions of the Atlantic Ocean, and indeed from any other portion of the globe. Its apparently chief characteristic is well expressed by the name now usually applied to it — the Sargasso, or Weedy Sea. The well-known gulf-weed, which is found more or less over its whole area, seems to be quite peculiar to it. There may be a somewhat analagous physical condition in the North Pacific, but this is not so easily defined. This gulf-weed is constantly found, in greater or less quantity, scat- terea oyer its whole area, and when it is found on places not its usual habitat, it may be safely inferred that it has drifted out of this extensive area by the action of the current. ^163.) It is very difficult to define the limits within which this gulf- weed is found. It IS more than probable that the fluctuations of the season, greatly affects them as it doe<« the limits of the Trade winds and intervening calms, the more particularly as it is to the varying currents caused by these winds that the weed is retained in its locality. Consequently we may look for its N. and S. boundaries more to the south- ward during the northern winter months, and the reverse during the summer. The tropic, or about the parallel of 23" N., may be its southern edge in the longitude of the Azores, from whence this limit extends to the Virgin Islands and the Bahamas. Its northern edge runs from the Azores to the outer edge of the Gulf Stream off Cape Hatteras. It is not so abundant to the westward of the meridian of the Azores. This will give a breadth of 1,000 miles in its eastern part, and a length of 3,000 miles from E. to W. As before stated, its limits may change greatly at different times, but it may always be looked for within this area, that is, between the southern edge of the Ouu Stream and the northern limit of the Equatorial Current. (164.) There has been much speculation as to the causes and conditions which have made and retained this peculiar area in its integrity. Major Rennell says : — " It has .been observed that the waters of the Atlantic have a greater tendency toward the middle of the ocean than otherwise, and this seems to indicate a reduced level, forming a kind of hollow space or depressed surface. It is certain that the setting of the currents is such as might be expected to take place if such a hollow existed ; for the currents do really set into, the Sargasso Sea from the North and from the South ; whilst in the middle part, although within the region of the Trade wind, the currents arc not regular, but indicate a kind of vortex.* By others it is considered as an immense eddy or whirlpool, formed by the inclina- tion of the water to the westward, caused by the influence of the Trade winds and the Gulf Stream. Others, again, argue that it is a raised surface, maintained in a quiescent condition by the suri-ounding currents, and I'ctaining all that is poured into it by the surround- ing influences. * Rcunoll's " Investigfitiou," p. 72. THE SARGASSO SEA. 280 It is also considered as the grand receptacle of the Ghilf Stream, which receiving at the Asores, here turns into tms space all that it has transported throogh its long course. ^>.;... -,v. .-., <-•.- ^,;^■..i.; ,jm a..: ,, v: ; ], ^l ^:, ■ All these theories have some facts io bekr '^din lip ^tJ&mA60^, i>Ut titk^ft iki be adduced to show their futility. (165.) It is here urged that a simple explanation can be given of this curious iregioui in the analagous condition of the atmosphere, so powerful an agent in the production or alteration of ocean drifts and currents. By referring to Maury's Trade Wind Charts, cited on page 186 (26.), it will be seen that there is an uncertainty about meeting with the northern edge of the N.E. trade winds through an extent of at least 10" of latitude ; add to this the vibration of this zone of trade winds consequent on the motion of the sun in the Ecliptic, which amounts to from 5° to 8° in latitude, as exemplified in the diagram of the limits of the trade winds at page 185, we have a range of 16° to 18° of latitude over whi£h, during some portion of the year, and over a large section of it throughout the year, that there is nothing but light airs and variable winds, being, in feet, the " horse latitudes," see pages 206-7 (58 to 61.). Under this zone, therefore, the sea is subject to no conlinued or regular drift, and consequently whatever is thrown on to its sur&ce will remain for a long time, and the Sargasso, or gulf-weed being one of the few marine plants which lives when broken from its rocky bed, it may exist here for a very long period, and thus accumulate by the fr«sh additions constantly making by the outer or eastern edge of the Gulf Stream, as well as that drifted around the northern part of the Atlantic, and passing by the S.E. Current by the Azores (144.) into tiiis quiescent -zone. That the uulf Stream is the primary feeder to this weedy sea will be shown presently. (166.) There is another condition also which fevours the maintenance and growth of this peculiar plant. The temperature of this water is very equable, less wai-m than that under the more vertical sun, and not varying more than 6 or 7° Fahr. through- out the year in the eastern part, or 8° or 9° in the western part. This temperature is, as said, lower than that of the southern part of the gi-eat equatorial streams to the south of it, but it is higher than that of the current, which sets S.E. and S. between the Azores and Spain, and lower than that of the surface of the Gulf of Mexico and the early course of the Gulf Stream. It may, therefore, be considered that it approxi- mates to the water-climate of the bottom of the Gulf of Mexico, that of the sea around the Bahamas, &c., where it is known that this weed g^ows naturally. (167.) The Sargasso, or guljj-weed, which is its peculiar characteristic, is one of the few plants, aquatic or terrestiial, which will live and flourish when separated from its native stem. Its appearance is too well known to require any detail. The sea was called Sargaqao by the early Portuguese navigators, from the weed bearing berries like grapes, " sarga." This term ma thus been corrupted into Sargaaao, and been, applied to the plant itself instead of the place it grows on. There are more than one species of it known to botanists, as aargassum vulgare, &c. It is frequently called fticua natana — floating sea-weed ; and is known to sailors as gulf-weed^ that famous stream being always more or less marked with it. The old story of Columbus, who had much difficulty with his men, when they de- clared that even the sea changed its nature into terrestrial to prevent his proceeding on his discovery voyage to America, has been oft repeated. The sea is commonly studded over, like an inundated meadow, with the bushes, which are in some places very abundant, and in others more dispersed. " If we could imagine the surface of a wide extended moor, covered with water, the ftirze and heath bushes would appear something like the clustera of fucus scattered over the thickest' part of this sea. The fhictification of all sea-weeds is peculiar, but they i ec[uire a fixed basis to vegetate. Although apparently flourishing in vast areas in this Sargasso Sea, they can only be looked on as cat flowers rather than as eompifcte planiB, although their constitution enables them to Uve a long period without oeing fixed to their parent % o 290 OBSEKVATIONS ON THE CURRENTS. rock like most other alg». They are found in every state of decay, and when old they become covered with minute and beautiful parasitic growths, which deserve much atteution to those who have the leisure and taste to examine them, especialhr with the microscope, which in this re^on reveals avast and little known world. Besides this, too, the tufts afford protection and shelter to a vast quantity and variety of minute fishes, crabs, and other Crustacea and animalculee, wnich wUl afford an inexhaustible fund of interest to the observer. Naturally enough, there is a limit to its separate existence, and when subjected to any change of temperature, or difference of locality unsuitable, by a continuous wind or current, large areas become decked, die, and sink to the bottom, to be renewed by the continual fresh importations from the Gulf of Mexico. It is sometimes drifted on to the shores of the British Isles and Western Europe, and appears among the other sea-weeds in the works on algolog^, but it is accepted as a shipwrecked stranger, not as a native of our shores. ^168.) The gulf of Mexico abounds with the native growths of the Sargasso-weed. It IS found attached to the rocks, at the bottom, in most parts of it. The soundings on the CampechS Bank, Chiriqui, the Andros Islands, on the Bahama Banks, New Providence, &c., all furnish the supply of g^rowing plants. The spores (or ii^eeds) of these become attached to these rocks in the manner usual with all algee, and the young plant grows, not from a root, because the attachment to the rock is not of that nature, till it attains some size, when offering greater resistance to the progress of the con- tinual current than the stalk is able to bear, it becomes detached, rises to the surface, and then is borne onward bv the stream till it emerges through the Gulf of Florida by the Gulf Stream. As will be shown hereafter, ^s stream has a tendency to throw atl floating bodies off to the right hand of its course, it follows, that this weed is gradually cast off into this central area, aided probably by the westerly prevalence of the winds which at times occur in' this part. One opinion may be safely controverted, that which assigns the depths of the Atlantic over which it is found as its native place. The great depth and consequent cold disproving the possibility of a plant living in such extremes of temperature, v^ , We give a number of examples and opinions on this subject, as in previous editions, but any new light which can be thrown upon the physical condition of this peculiar region, would be well worth the study of any one who will undertake it. But little has been added to our stock of knowledge for many years. (169.) Captain Livingston, in his way from New Orleans to the Strait of Florida, saw laige quantities of it ; and every one who has navigated the Gulf Stream has remarked the weed in it, or along its borders. Sir Fhilip Broke and the Baron Alexander von Humboldt say, that the stream contains a great deal. Sir Philip says: " We were always surrounded with gulf-weed." Major Rennell adds, "He spoke of that part of the Gulf Stream out in the Atlantic ; the others might speak of other parts," In the second volume of the " Colombian Navigator," 1848, p. 220, is a description of the Andros Isles, as lately surveyed, and it is there ahown, that in the great spong- ing district, upon the Bahama Bank, West of Andres, vast quantities of the gtii^- weed are produced ; and this is one of the beds irom which the ocean has been isupplied." ■Oo the weed found in the ocean, we have the following remarks, by Captain XAioingtton, whose name has so frequently occurred in the preceding pages : — '" Many persons suppose that the gulf- weed {Jwus natatu) grows upon the rocks about the Bermudas ; others, that it originates among the Florida Reefs ; and a third party, that k grows upon the water, without ever a&ering to anything fixed. " All these positions seem to me equally wide of truth. Neithet on the Bermuda Rocks, nor among the Florida Reefs, has a single branch of gulf- weed ever been found growing upon the rocks ; and, among all the gulf- weed met on the ocean, no person haa ever found a single tuft with roots, or that, on mature examination, could bi< suppo«ed« by any person of sound judgment, io jiuve grown on the surface of the THE SARGASSO SEA. 291 On the contrary, every stalk of the weed seems to have been broken off short nethine to whicn it firmly grew, and all the encb of these st'-^ks are uniformly •water. from somet4ine decayed, or dried up, from the encl to a short distance. " It has been stated, as a well-known fact, that the fttcus natana ^ws on the rocks along the Onlf of Paria, and on the coasts of Caraccas, &c. If this be the case, it is rather strange that it should not rather grow on other rocks and coasts of the West Indies. It has also been stated, that in the whole sea of floating bushes. Mar do Sargasso, not a withered plant is ever discovered. This is not true, as I have seen abundance of thefucus natans in a state of gi-eat decar. I note the following from my journal of the Brilliant, from Gibraltar towards Havanna: 8th February, 1819, ' the weed much decayed ;' 9th. ' weed passed through, a.m., much decayed ;' 10th, p.m., ' passed throu&;n much decayed weed ; I remark, that the farther we run to the westward, the more decayed is the gulf-weed ;' 13th, ' the gulf-weed begins to look fresher.'* " These particulai-s have been g^ven, in order to show that I have not spoken at random ; on the contraiy, actually made my remarks on the-spot. Some of the weed was quite brown, and in small fragments, evidently separated into such by its state of decay. It is tiue, that the weed soon decays when it is taken otit of the water, as I have often tried the experiment. The weed is never of a verdant green colour, but seems as if blanched ttGta. having been, in some degree, hid from light : I suppose from vegetating under water." (170.) Mr. Turner, who has so well made known the family of the sea-weeds, and many other celebrated botanists, think that the greater part of ihefuci (weeds) which we gather on the surface of the ocean, and which, from the 23rd to the -Sdth degree of latitude, and 30th of longitude, appear to the mariner like a vast inundated meadow, grow primitively at the bottom of the ocean, and float only in their ripened state, when they are torn off by the motion of the waves. To the North of the Cape Verde Islands, we met with great masses of floating sea- weeds. They were the tropic grape, ^cu« natans, which grows on submarine rocks, between the £quator and lat. 40", both North and South. I am assured from the comparison of a great number of journals, that, in the basin of the Atlantic Ocean, there exist two banks of weeds, very different from each other. The most extensive is a little to the West of the meridian of F^yal, one of the Azores, between lat. 25^ and lat. 36". The temperature of the ocean, in these latitudes, is from 61° to 68° ; and the North winds, whicn sometimes reign there very tempestuously, drive floating isles of weed even to the parallels of 24° and 20°. The* vessels which return to Europe, either from the Rio Plata or the Cape of Good Hope, cross these banks, which the Spanish pilots consider as at an equal distance frova. the Antillas and Canaries. The second bank of fuci (weed) is but little known ; it occupies a much small space be- tween the 22nd and 26th degrees of latitude, 80 leagues East of the meridian of the Bahamas. It is found on the passage from the Caycos to the Bermudas. In the latitudes just described, the fuci, far from being Lxed to the bottom, float in separate masses on the surface of the water " It were to be wished that navigators would heave the lead more fr^uently in the latitudes covered vdth weeds. " The causes that unroot these weeds, at depths where it is generally thought the sea is slightly agitated, are not sufficiently known. It has been said, that if the fucus adhere to the rocks with the gpreatest firmness before the display of its fructifi- cation, it separates with gi'cat facility after this period, or during the season which suspends its vegototion, lilce that of the terrestrial plants. The fish and the molluscis * On the 8th of February, the Brilliant was in 24" 17' N., and 66" 1' W. On the 9th, in 24° 34' N., and 66» 59' W. On the lOth, in 24" h\' N., and 68" 39' W. On the 12th, in 25° 34' N., and 71° 5' W. On the 9th, the ship passed the meridian of Porto Rico, and was hcnco proceeding toward Providence Channel, Bahama, The decayed weed, ws have no doubt, had diiftod from the central bed of the ouoan. — Eo. ^■:-- 292 OBSERVATIONS ON THE CURRENTS. that gnaw the sterna of the sea-weeds do doubt contribute also to detach them from their roots. <• On proceeding hence, toward the West Indies, from the 22nd degree of latitude, we found the surfisuse of the sea covered with flying fish, which threw themselves up into the air 12, 15, or 18 feet high, and fell down on the deck. I do not hesitate to speak of an object, of which voyagers discourse as frequently as of dolphins, sharks, sea-sickness, and the phosphorescence of the ocean. Ncne of these objects can fail of affording interesting observations to those who make them theii study." {i^l') Citptotii ^ourA;«, in the brig Arch^ald, December, 1815, found large quan- tities 01 the weed near the parallel of 20°, to the northward of the Island Porto Rico, and of the eastern part of Hayti ; but on the passage through the Bahama Channel, eastward of the meridian of 70% and on the North sides of Hayti and Cuba, none of the weed was seen. This may be accounted for on the supposition that it was drifted by the current from the great bed of weed to the NE., as before explained. Xteu^. /oAn ^van«, R.N., states : — "In November, 1810, 'H.M.S. Belvedere, ia the centre of the Atlantic, lat. 33° 20', long. 41° 37', passed through prodigious quantities of fucus .^ataru, in line North and South, as Ceu: as the eye could see ; and notwith- stuiding that there prevailed a very heavy swell from the North, their position was not altered. The quantity of this weed met with between the 30th and 36th degrees of latitude is really astomshing ; at times you may sail for leagues th ;ough it, cover- ing, as a mantle, the surface of the sea. I have often seen it in Imss about 300 or 4(K> fathoms in length (sometimes only a few ^ards^, and frequeutlv in large and small patches of irregruar shape, but generally in a circular form. The deep-sea line shoula be put over the side frequently in this particular part of the AtUintic." On the 17th April, 1828, at noon, in the Mexican Sea, a vessel under the conmumd of Lieut. John Evans was in lat. 26° 52', long. 89° 17'. On this iayfttctta natana, or gulf-weed, was seen, in parallel lines, S.S.E. and N.N.W. It was in flower, and com- pletely covered with young barnacles. " From the lat. 25° to 28° in this sea we met with the fucus in paraUel lines S.S.E. and N.N.W. ; it flowers like fern and other crt/ptoffamia." In calms the fuci float near the surfac: some of the leaves appearing above water ; the patches seen in the Florida Stream, bud the bunches examined, were old, brown, and covered with young barnacles. In the year 1825 the brig Erin, from the Pacific Ocean to Liverpool, when to the westward of the Azores, passed compact parallels of fucus natana ir lat. 39° 59', long. 33° 46'. The weed was less broken than any they had before seen ; the nodules large and of a deep yellow-brown colour, and the lines extending, as fiir as the eve could reach, in a curection about S. by E., being nearly at right angles with tne vessel's line, which was E. by N. The wind was S.E. by S., strong gales and a heavy sea. (172.) The/uctw natana is found in localities to the eastward of the Sargasso Sea. For Ihe following communication we are indebted to the late Captain Thomas Midgley, and it is a g^eat acquisition to our knowledge of the wide range that this plant has : — " On my outward passage to Africa in a perfect calm, at daylight of the morning of 18th of January, 1841, in lat. 6° 46' N., and long. 14° 66' W., I found the ship amongst a number of small bunches of weed, and many cuttle-hsh shells. " On carefrdly examining some of the bunches of weed, I was surprised to find it the tmefucua natana, or Sargasso or gulf-weed, being, in every respect, precisely the same as that found in the N.E. trades, but apparently much fresher, having exactly the same kind of oblong, narrow, serrated lea^ same stem, same nodules, and just the same pale yellow colour. The pods were also sui-rounded with a very fine kind of net-work {Jlustra), and there were a very few minute barnacles attached to the stem, which scarcely showed any marks of decay ; indeed, the two bunches brought on board (which were each about 4 inches in oiameter) appeared to have been but very recently separated from Uie parent stem, and they each contained a small, but very lively, t-rab. THE SAIiOASSO SEA. *' The lively fresh appearance of the weed, and the two orabt, induced me to try for soundings, and, as the weather was perfectly calm and the water smooth, I was enabled to get a perpendicular oast of 112 fathoms, with a well-armed heavy lead, but found no bottom. " The weed was in detached and small bunches, and could only have extended over a comparatively limited space ; for when a breeze of wind sprang up, and the vessel had sailed 20 miles to the eastward, there was not a single sprig or bunch to be seen. if :,, '*^ This weed appears to be unknown upon the Krou coast, for I had two intelligent natives of Sang^win and Grand ^estros on board at the time I picked tiie weed up, and they severally declared they had never seen it upon any part of l^e coast. " The vessel had been perfectly becalmed for fourteen hours previous and two hours subsequent to the time of picking up the weed, so that she g^:«dual]y drifted amongst it by a current, which I found, by good observations and carerally-kept reckoning, to set E. by S. by compass, very nearly three-quarters of a mile per hour. Temperature of water, when weed was picked up at da^ight, 79°, and at noon, 81° Fahrenheit." (It had evidently been drifted out of the area by the current described on p. 283. Its not being known farther East is probably owing to the difference of temperature of the sea, which kills the weed before it arrives there.) (173.) Mr. Luccoch in his Notes on Brasil, has likewise described the Green or Weedy Sea. He states that it extends from 11° to 35° of North latitude, and from 30° of longitude to on indefinite distance westward. " Here," he says, " the ocean is covered oy nodules of sea-weed, from 3 to IB. inches in diameter, somewhat resem- bling in form a cauliflower when stripped of its leaves. They float lightly on the water, in parallel lines, at a very few yards from each other, and have a yellow-brown colour, like the long stringy fibre which is sometimes seen fioating in the EngUsh Channel, and which I suppose to be the natural colour of all marine phmts, growing deeply beneath the surface of the water. These nodules, or spherules, are composed of a vast number of small branches, about half an inch long, which shoot from each other at an angle of about 40° ; hence they multiply continually toward the super- ficies of the sphere ; find each extreme point produces a round seed-vessel. This is little more than one -tenth part of an mch in diameter, is hollow, and contains a small reddish-brown need, scarcely occupying one-fifth part of the husk. The leaf of the plant springy frtm the joints of the branches, is oolong, indented at the edges, about 1| inches long, and a quarter of an inch broad. " When the nodule is dexterously taken up, all the branches may be traced to one principal stalk ; and this invariably shows a fracture, the part by which it has been joined to some larger stem. This fracture is frequently qmte fresh, and, in large and vigorous plants, shows distinctly a woody part and a cortex. On the edges of the latter, the first symptoms of decay appear. They become brown, and separate them- selves tram the wood. This also men assumes a darker colour, and exhibits the reg^ular process of disorganisation, just in the same manner as does a slip from a cur- rant or gooseberry bush. In process of time, the whole of the plant assumes a darker hue ; and, ae it decays, floats considerably lower than it did. When kept out of the water for a few hours, it becomes harsh and brown, and acquires the peculiar smell of marine vegetables in a state of putrefaction " A great number of very minute barnacles are found upon the leaves and stalks. The seed-pod is usually enveloped in a sort of honeycomb work, which may be taken from it, and, when examined by a lens, resembles m appearance the net-work in a fly's eye. (This is called Jlustra.) Among other inhabitants of the plant, is frequently a number of small crabs, perfectly formed, and evidently young, yet vigorous and active ; and when a nodule, taken fresh from the water at night, is hung up in a small cabin, it emits phosphorescent light enough to render objects visible. " The singular arrangement of the plants, in parallel lines, is evidently owing to the wind, wnosc direction they alwaj's observe. E-ach nodule pla 294 OBSERVATIONS ON THE CURRENTS. lee of its more windward neighbour, and thus observes the law of floating bodies when exposed to a current of air. Should the wind suddenly change, as it sometimes does, a point or two, in this part of the Atlantic, and blow strong, these lines become broken, and form what are commonly called Jielda ^ weed. These, however, are generally small, and seldom, I suspect, yemain long so disarranged. " In the month of October, I have run with a fine schooner, due North, through the N.E. trades, in the longitude of 26°, and found no weed, being perhaps to the East of it. In the month of March, on board a different vessel, we formed a diagonal line, from 26° to 44° West, across the parallels from 11° to 44°, and saw a great quan- tity of it. In May, of another year, along the same track, there was much less ob- served ; yet I dare not say that these dates are sufficient to point out the season of ripening, maturity, and decay of the plant, although I have never taken up a nodule wnioh was not full of seed-pods, and never heard of a person who had noticed one destitute of them. It is said, that whales come down to the vicinity of Bermuda at a particular season, and feed upon these plants ; yet I do not recollect ever seeing an inaividual of that species in the Weedy Sea ; but, on the contrary, have noticed a deficiency of fishes in general ; and most, if not all, of those which I have seen opened on board, appeared to live, not upon vegetable food, but their fellow-inhabit- ants of the waters. It is probable, however, that none but such will take a bait or approach a vessel." Captain Martin White, R.N,, says : — " It is certainly remarkable that the loci natalea of ihefucua natana (spread, as it is, among the other rejectamenta of the sea, so profusely over the Atlantic, Indian, and Pacific Oceans), should have remained so long undiscovered ; we are informed, however, that two varieties have been found in the Red Sea, and a solitary specimen has been produced by Dr. Wright from the West Indies, another by Guinani ^om the Mediterranean ; but without any remarks as to the aoil it grew upon, or the depth of water where taken, both of which are very important. It is stated, also, to have been received from Bermuda, and to have been seen on the rocks alon^ the Oulf of Paria, and on the coast of Caraccas ; but, if the latter were so, would it not be also found on the coasts contiguous ? I do not pre- sume to question the fact of the /ucu« natana having been received from Bermuda ; nevertheless, I have often heard surprise expressed at not finding this weed growing among the rocks at that island, and still more at its absence from the anchorage east- ward of New Providence, where, to my knowledge, the water is so clear as to render it quite possible to distinguish the varieties, even under the ship's bottom." — Remarka on the Winda, the Tides, and the Currenta of the Ocean, p. 144. 6.— THE EQUATORIAL CURRENTS. (174.) The name which is usually given to the great drifts of the trade winds, hav- ing as wide a range or latitude as 50 or 60°, is scarcely expressive. The Equatorial Current, strictly speaking, is the counter-current we have just described. However, the drift which is mtended passes to the S.W. and West or the Azores and Canaries, and from the coast of Africa to the Gulf of Mexico, northward of the easterly counter-current in the North Atlantic ; while the great drift of the S.E. trade wind, crossing the Equator, southward of the coimter-current, and running strongly to the N.N.W., along the coast of Guayana, joins its strength to the northern portion, and thus, together, passes through the Caribbean Sea. (175.) The drift of the N.E. trade is not so powerfiil probably as that of the S.E. trade, as the interference of the land causes such a great change in the regularity of the winds which certainly must be taken as the greatest cause in the production of these currents. The mean rate has been over-estimated in former times by many observers. In its northern limits in the open ocean its annual average, from a careful calculation, amounts to from 8-2 miles to 11*6 miles per day; in its southern and stronger portion it is from 16 to 22*4 miles per day. Westward of the Cape Verd« THE EQUATORIAL CURRENTS. 29ff Islands, its mean direction is nearly due West, which is remarkable, considering the northing of the trade wind. It would seem scarcely necessary to enlarge much upon the rate and extent of this well-known current ; but, as it may be interesting to com- pare individual experience with that of preceding voyages, we give aa heretofore a series of examples by which the ordinary rate and circumstances may be reckoned on. (176.) EXAMPLES. — Captain J. W. Monteath ; on his passage firom Liverpool to Norfolk, in Virginia, in February, 1816, between the Island of Teroeira, Azores, and lat. 32% lon<;^. 45°, in a run of eight days, by lunar observations, found the current had set the vesuel three degrees to the W.S.W. of the reckoning ; but from this posi- tion, until his arrival in the Florida Stream, little or no current was fou&d. In 1823 the corvette Bayadere, Captain Rous8in> on approaching and passing the Azores, upon her return from Rio Janeiro, Nov. 20 to Nov. 25, found the prevailing Winds and Currents as follow : — ; , ,.,- , . ■■ ,,^). . , .... ^^^ ,.,, Latitude. Longitude. MTinds. Current. M. Nov. 24, 26 48 12 .33 24 50 E. by S. to W. S.46 W. 23 \ Equatorial 3..31 16 15N.N.N.tp:W.S,W.byW.S.10W.24 ^Swa?d''of S. 8 U,. 24 j ^^^ j^^^^ S. 65 E. 28 V S.E. CuR- S.50 E; 13 (rent, easi- S. 75 E. 10 ( ward of the S.70 E. 11 ; Azores. 21, 37 42 22, 38 13 56.. 27 43 40 23, 39 36 28.. 25 3 15 24, 40 16 0..23 29 25, 40 25 50.. 22 53 20 26, 41 41 50.. 19 15 50 N.N.W. N.N.W. North. East. S.S.W. Here, therefore, the line of distinction between these currents was experienced in a very sensible degree. In June, 1816, H.M.S. Pactolua experienced a southerly and south-westerly current of 10 miles a day between St. Michael's and lat. 36°, long. 42 i°. This must have been on the tail of the Oulf Stream and in the Weedy Sea. The Pactolua felt no other current on her way to the Bermudas until she came within 70 miles of those islands, and then had a current of 13 miles a day W.S.W. Captain W. J. Capes, in the Ladg Mackworth, in September, 1823, from the 14th of that month to the 8th of October, pursued his direct course to Barbadocs, from lat. 24° 0', long. 25° 1', his situation at noon on the 14th. He says that, from leaving the Island Fcrro, wc found the current setting us at the rate of from 3 to 5 miles a day westward, and generally a little southing. The weather was remarkably fine all the way to Barbadoes, and always fail-, so that I never took in a royal ; the log- glasses well adjusted, as well as the log-line ; but, on making Barbadoes, we found the chronometer to be remarkably correct, and that the ship was 112 miles a head of dead-reckoning. To the south-westward of Madeira, between the island and lat. 28° 0', long. 18° 24', Captain Livingston found the set to be 14' 38" S.,and 37' 5" W., 10th and 11th April, 1826. Proceeding south-westward, fi*om the spot last mentioned, to lat. 14° 7', long. 44° 6', in fifteen davs the sets were 14' 40" N., 1' 11" S. ; 11' 15" E. ; and 2' 6" W.— Sui-plus effect, 56' 20' S., and 1' 64" W. 7th Dec., 1810. — H.M.S. Belvedere sailed from Bermuda, and proceeded toward the Azores. On the 21st (fourteen days' run to the eastward), lat. obscn'ed 36° 22' N., long, by account, 34°9' W., by lunar, 35° 5', by chron., 35° 0' ; leaving 51' for westerly current. 25th of Novemder, 1790. — The merchant ship Rosalia sailed from Cadiz for Vera Cruz, having, as passengers on board, Don Josef de Espinosa and Don Ciriajo Cevallos, officers of the Spanish navy, who had two good chronometers. This chip made Cape Cabron, on the N.E. side of Hayti, after a voyage of twenty-three days, and it was then found that the ciuTents had carried them four degrees to the west- ward of dead-reckoning ; and that, consequently, the daily drift averaged alout 1 miles. 296 OBSERVATIONS ON THE CURRENTS. In 1770, a small vessel laden with corn, and bound firom-the Island of Lanzarote, m our former editions. Westeelt Drift to St. EustAtius. — A bottle from the ship Wm. Miles, Cap- tain James Pike, bound to Jamaica, lat. 18° 28', long. 57° 20' (date omitted). Picked up on the beach of St. Eustatius, 26th of February, 1839. Central Drift to the Virgin Isles A bottle from the Emerald, Captain Nockells, bound to Jamaica, 17th December, 1631, in lat. 36° 40', long., by chron., 12° 32'. Found on the North side of Anegada, 8th January, 1833. The y^ ads for the last three days, previous to the 17th of December, were from North and N.W. to S.W. For eight days preceding these it blew a continued and heavy gale from S.W. and W.N.W. ; the bark lying-to the whole time, and drifting from lat. 41° 28', 227 miles to the northward. A bottle from the ship Isabella, of Leith, 2nd April, 1835, in lat. 23° 19', N., long. 87° 50' W. Having lost the N.E. trade in the morning. Wind then E.S.E. Found by Cooper's Island, near Tortola, 13th September, 1836. Equatorial Current to Tobago. — A bottle from the schooner Julia, Wm. Davidson, master, in lat 6° N., and long. 40° W., Nov. 6, 1821. Found 7th of March, 1122, near the shore of Little Rocky Bay, Tobago. Central Drift and Equatorial Currents. — A bottle from the ship Oambia, in the River Oambia, lat. 13J° N., in the latter part of 1831. Picked up on the southern side of Virgin Oorda, lat. 18° 30'. Central Drift and Equatorial Currents. — A bottle from the Two Brothers, of Baltimore, in hit. 17° N., long. 26° W. (oflf St. Antonio), 21st of November, 1826. Found at Acklin's or South Crooked Island, in lat. 22° 12' N., long. 74° 18', on the 8th of December, 1827. Hence it appears to have di-ifted, in a W. by N. direction, from the vicinity of the Cape Verde Isles to the West Indies, under influence of the Drift from the N.E. and the Eqimtorial Current, probably in the first instance W.S.W. and thence W.N.W. Madeira to the West Indies. — A bottle from the ship Symmetry, of Scar- borough, Captain Smith, on her way from Leith to Buenos Ayres, off Madeira, 0th of June, 1825. Picked up at Salt Kay, Turks' Islands, after a lapse of ten years, 9th of June, 1835. Guyana to St. Vincent's — A bottle thrown into the sea on the 20th of May, 1835, in the latitude of Demerary ; picked up in Sable Bay, St. Vincent's, on the 24th of June. At the same time several large trees were washed anhore, among them a Spanish cedar, and which, from their appearance (being covered with a coat of barnacles and sea-weed), must have b6en a long time in the water ; these were, no doubt, driven out to sea by the overflowing of the Orinoco, occasioned by the hea^'y rains. Some years back a very large cedar came on shore at Sable or Sandy Bav, bringing with it a large female hna constrictor, which took to the neighbouring wood, and when shot, some days after, was found t« contain many young ones, nearly ready to escape } and which, but for the destruction of the old une, would have taken up their abode in the woodti. A bottle thrown from the Osjirei/ at noon, on the 1st of April, 1820, in lat, 12° 56' S., lonff. 29° 10' W., woh found, 10th of June, 1820, on the Barra Grande^ coast of Brazil, latitude about 9° 20' S. ItH true direction seems to have been N.W-. by W. \ W. Attested by Messrs. Low and «Jo., of Maqaio, in the province of Pernambuoo. ii r 2M OBSERVATIONS ON THE CURRENTS. Cape Verde Isles to Brazil.— The Hatard, of Oreei)pck, Aueust 4th, 1812, lost the N.E. trade, in lat. 11° N., long. 25° W. ; and the wind, until the 12th, varied iSrom West to S.W.j from the 12th to the 17th it generally blew from South, never exceeding one point easterly. Gained the S.E. trade on the 17th, in lat. 2° N., long. 27° 30' W.; the trade kept southward between Penedo de S. Pedro, or St. Paul's Islets, and the coast of Brazil (at Rio Doce), and experienced a westerly current amounting to nearly /our degrees. Attested by Captain J. W. Moneath. Between Madeira and Brazil. — In the Jane, Captain Livingston, April and May, 1824, found a surplus effect of currents, between Madeira and Brasilian Trinidad in thirty-nine days, equal to 1° 19' 47 ' S., and 6° 3' W. ; Finally, Captain Sabine has shown, that in 1822, after H.M.S. Pheasant sailed ftom Maranham, she entered the current, the Ml strength of which she had quitted , to go to that place, and it was then found to be running with the astonishing rapidity of 99 miles in twenty-fours hours. On the 10th of September, at ten a.m., while proceeding in the fiill strength of the current, exceeding 4 knots an hour, a sudden and very g^at discolouration of the water ahead was announced fr^m the mast-head ; the ship Miuff then in 5° 8' N., and 50° 28' W. (both by observation), it was evident, that the discoloured water could be no other than the stream of the Maranon, pursu- ing its original impulse at no less than 300 miles from the mouth of the river, its waters not being yet mingled with the blue waters of the ocean, of greater specific gravity, on the surface of which it had pursued its course. It was running about 68 miles in thirty-four hours. (180.) The foregoing is a sufficient elucidation of the features, velocity and limits of the N.E. trade wind drift of the Atlantic, but, as has been before mentioned, par- ticularly in (27 to 33.), pages 186 — 189, the division between the the northern and southern systems of wind, and consequently of current, being to the northward of the equator, and consequently that tlie South Atlantic Current, enters the Caribbean Sea, and increases the force of the Gulf Stream. (181.) The SOUTH EQUATORIAL CURRENT, which passes over thejequator in its northern portion, has a mean velocity of about 20 to 26 miles per day m the open ocean, and its direction is, like that of the Northern Equatorial Current, nearly due ^t. Setting upon the northern coast of South America, it runs with great velocity close in-shore at times, sometimes reaching 100 miles per day, and not un- usually 60 miles. It is scarcely necessary to dilate on this current, as it appears to be re§fularly and constantly met with. Its progress through the Caribbean Sea, &o., will be dealt with in the next section. (182.) It will be seen that throughout the breadth of this ocean that the set of the stream is not to S.W. or N.W., as might be expected from the direction of the trade winds, which may be taken as the prime mover of tiiese mighty drifts, but 0a»ttoard, This fact would seem to indicate that the rotation of the earth on its axis has more to do with its motion than has usually been attributed to it. But our present know- ledge of the subject is not sufficiently extensive or accurate to define what amount of action is due to that nource, or how much to the wind, lunar influences, or tempera- ture, all of which combine to produce the phenomena we are considering. Theoretical ■peculations, however, are not necessary m a practical work, although they may be interesting. (183.) Arrived at the Barrier formed by the line of the AntiUas, a »arge portion of the stream is necessarily arrested, the remainder pouring through the openings, which between Barbuda and Trinidnd are not in the aggregate 230 miles in width, or not one-half of the range. From this, or other causes, the westerly drift through the Caribbean Sea is not so persistent, probably, as it is in the ocean to the eastward, as , will be presently described. (184.) Of the current* in the vicinity qf Anegada and Virgin Itlanda Sir Bobert Schomburgk says :— ,^ ^ i% v^* " It is well known that the tropical current, caused by the earth's mtation, sets to THl EQUATORIAL CURRENT. the westward, and its grand movement in these latitudes is directed through th» Caribbean Sea; bat it is probable that a branch of it, turned aside by the north* eastern coast of South America, sweeps along the Caribbean Islands to the N.W. till it reaches the Bahamas; and it is this branch which, at present, attracts my particular attention, and in proof of the existence of which I adduce the following remarks : — * " Vessels bound from America to the West Indies, and chiefly to St. Thomas's, fi^quently find themselves to the Nortihi of the Virgin Islands ; and this deviation from their intended course has proved but too often fatal, having brought them on the reefs of Anegada when mey thought themselves far to the Southward of. that dangerous island. Nor can repeated occurrences like these be attributed ex clusively to errors in the observations for determining the latitude, or to false reckoning." The American brig William and TJiomas left New York 28th of October, 1829. Made Bermuda on the seventh day after departure, when, contrary winds retarding her course, land was discovered m the morning of November Idth : according to reckoning, it wcw suppm March to June, f^quently blows from the South and S.E., and the velocity of the N.W. current will be thus increased ; in consequence of which, vessels bound during that time for these islands are more subject to error in their course than at any other period ; and lighter bodies being more influenced by currents than heavier ones may be taken as the specific cause of the last remark. (ISA.) EXCEPTIONS.— The equatorial drift is not alway$ encountered. As will * A great quantity of cork shaTings arc washed annually ashore on the N. side of Anegndn; thsy are diiftad by the Equatorial Cunsut uum ihs coasts of Spain and Portugal. -' - ,...j^^. ..^ ■ ... ^„, „,,... r. ,. ,-. . ., ^T , , ,.: ,,,;j> ' ado OBSERVATIONS ON THE CURRENTS. be seoi it is not si Ter^ rapid motion of the waters, and therefore other causes wilt readily alter or revenw its action. 'Migor Rennell has said t-^" Experience most fully proves, that although nature effects all her opetations^ in such a manner as that, ultimately, the whole system is balanced and preserved, yet that, in detail, she often appears irregpilar, according to our limited conmrehension. The trade winds- and the currents of the ocean partake of these iiregularftiea, although the general qrstem is upheld. The trade winds in the Atlantic are often unsteady, even to 5° or 6 within their northern bounda^ ; and instead of N.E. winds, there are found N.W., and even S.W. winds, for many days consecutively ; and this state of iMngs prevents the drift current from being so regular there, as in the heart of the trades. " Anomalies also take place in the great Equatorial Current, and in that of the S.E. trade. The former has been known, at one time, to run to the eastward, or directly opposite to its general, and as is commonly understood, perpetual cohree ; and at about tne same rate, and with it, the whole mass of water from 5° N. to 12° S. At another time, a like anomedy took place between the parallels of 2° N. and 7' S. This latter was observed to take place at 6° or 7° to the eastward of Cape St. Roque ; but the other about midway between the two continents. In e third case, nearly in the middle, the current ceased aUogether ; or rather there was neither an easterly nor a westerly current. This happened in February ; the otiier twp in July and August.*^ -(pp. 66, 67.)* . ^ The instance as given in the Spanish Derrotero, is as follows : — * uiii -vi. ^S The deceased Amiral Don CosmS de Churruca sailed from Cadiz on the 15th June, 1792, for the pui'pose of surveying the West India Islands ahd Spanish Main. On the 6th July he crossed the Tropic of Cancer in 28° 56' West of Greenwich, without having- oiscovered any error in thp dead reckoning ; neither did they find any on the 8th: the trade wind was then fresh, and it was remarked that it attained the greatest strength when the sun was on the meridian, by night as well as by day. " On the 10th of July they found a current of 1 and 1-lOth miles per hour, setting N. 49° £., reckoned for two days : care had been taken to heave the log very fre- quently, and alwajrs on any alteration of the sail carried. Their course was S. 64° W. From the 10th to the 12th they also found a current setting N. 31}° E., nearly a mile an hour ; from noon of the 12th to noon of the 14th the current had carried the vessel to the N.F. 441 miles out of her course ; and at noon of the 15th, 17 miles N. 21° W. *' At noon of the 17th they found that in the preceding forty-eight hours the vessel had been carried 43 miles to the N.E. of her reckoning. On the 18th, in the evening, they saw the Island Tobago bearing S. 55° W. By making this island, they found that the reckoning by account was 2° 13' 45" afuad of the ship; equal, in this parallel, to 43^ leagues: and Don Cosm^ thereupon made the following reflections : — after about Wlf a mile an hour, where a current in a south-westerly direction is fj^eiierally sup- posed to prevail ; this continued until they reached the latitude of Bonavista. Captain Wilkes says :— " We hove-to and tried the current morning and evening, always found the same result." The current log used, was two kegs, with a distance-line of 6 fathoms between them, the lower one being just loaded sufBoiently to sink tho air-tight one under the sur&co of the water, with the usiial log-lino attached to the centre of the distanco-line, precluding the posaibility of its being a surface current : btsidos which, the dead-reckoning of the ship, and our observations, gave the same result. On the 29th of Soptomber the squadron passed into coloured water, quite as groen in appoarunco as that of 5 ) fethoms in depth on soundings. On entering it, the temporaturo decreased 1}°, and rose 2" on leaving it. The vessels continued in it until the 2nd of October, having then run a distance of 430 miles. Tlioy repeatedly sounded with from 100 to 300 f.ithcsir, of line, but no bottom wa" found. — " AthoniDum," 2l8t of Heptoniber, 1859, This disooloured water is ftoqiiently mentioned by other navigators. THE EQUATORIAL GUKRENT. 301 « In ten days, between the pftrallels of 21° 46' and 11° 44', and the meridians (West of Greenwich) of 33° 30' and 00° 50', the yeasel was set 2° 48' 27" to the Nortii, and 2° 27' 45' to the East, of dead-reckoning, or 711.1fiwue8, as if they had ex- perienced a daily current of 21^ nules, setting N. 38° jB. This ffretkt error cannot be attributed to any carelessness in making up the dead iieckomng, nor to its in- sufficiency, for it is known that a log-line marked to 60} English feet, between knot and knot, ought not to measure distances greater than those sailed : fad, ccnsequentiy, it must be concluded that they had a constant and powerful onfrent settimr them totheN.E. — o " There can be no doubt," Don Cosm6 says, " of tiie existence of a oorient to the westward in the tropical zone : the action of the moon must necessarily produce it; and the '^xperiecce of navigators, who have generally found«their vessels ahead of their dead-reckoning on making the coast of America. The constant action of the tvade wind must also co-operate, and it would be temerity to oppose an opinion so satisfactorily established, and so generally adopted. My own observa- tior "I are, however, certein ; my dead-reckoning was most circumspectly and prolixly made up, and there can be no possibility of a doubt that we experienced a current to the N.E." *- . -^ *~ The BoLLEBS, or Heavy Obound Swell, of the north-eastern portion of the Antillas, which has, from time to time, prodiiaed so much mischief, was first described by Mr. R. H. Schomburgk, as shown in tl|e Journal ^x>f the Royal Geographic So- 'ciety, 1835, and copious extracts firom the same are given in the' third volume of the '<^ Colombian Navigator," to which the reader is referred for a more complete explica- tion of the subject. The phenomenon appears to be caused by the meetins and combination of the drift from the N.E., and the Equatorial Current from the S!E. or S.S.E. It rises, rafr:s, and subsides, says Mr. Schomburgk, when the air is cilm, w^n there has been no indication whatever of a previous gale, or even when light airs have, for a consider- able period preceding, come from uie southward of East. The waves approach in gentle undulations, but suddenly swell against the shore, and break with the greatest imnetuosity. The rise takes place sometimes gradually, but more frequently quit« onexpecteoly, the wa^es reachmg an uncommon height. A heavy " Ground Sea " is distinguiBhed by something grand and sublime. The . sea approaches in undulatinff masses, which si'ddenly rise to large ridges, crested with foam, and form billows that ourst upon the beach with the greatest impetuosity ; the spray flying, where the waves dash against cliffs, often more than 100 feet hi^h, attendea with loud roarings resembling thunder, which subside into a rumbling none, caused by the nodules and fragments of rock with which the breaker was charged when advancing, which on its retreat roll backward, and are again driven forward by the next surge. Wave then follows upon wave in quick succession, there being apparently only a short interval after the third. The sea, for maay miles from shore, assumes a peculiar aspect, different tints of blue, from the lightest to the darkest, forming a strong contrast with the snowy foam of the breakmg waves, when they strike against a nidden rock, or with the white line visible along the whole coast. The Eastern Bahamas, the north-eastern coast of Jamaica and Hayti, but chiefly Porto-Rico and the Virgin Islands, and, in a less degree, the northern Caribbee Islands, are subjected to this ground sea. It may be considered as a rule that, whenever the wind gets to the northward of East for a day or two, there will be a ground tea on the noithem side of the islands. The friction of the wind on the surface of the water causes little elevations or ridges, vhioh by continuance of the force gradually increase, chiefly when the wind sweeps over p great extent of water. Finding no resistance, and having sufficient depth to sink directly down, they proceed with tne direction of the wind and remain natural, waves, until they meet repercussion from dashing against the shore, when they rise to an elevation much above their natural state. The period when the ground sea sets in is generally Octobw, and it continues inouf^n witn somo inierminsion, uu /\pni nnci miij. ine wina accompanying or pre- w. OBSERVATIONS ON THE CURRENTS. oediOK a ground sea is, ^nerallj, from the East of North ; the winds ore, therefore, propelled, more or less, in a western as well as southern direction, and the Bahamas, ana even Bermuda, may escape, whilst the islands from Barbadoes to Porto Rico, but more particularly the latter and the Virgin Islands, receive its first impulse. A southern sale will likewise produce a heavy swell on the southern side of these islands ; and, during the eale of the 30th and 3Ist Augist, 1833, this was felt with great violence on the souuem shore. But generally speaking, neither in force nor duration are these surges to be compared wiui those of the noraiem side ; the group of the Virgin Islands being protected, in this direction, by the Carribbean Islands or by the Coiombiam coasts, and not exposed to the swell of the main ocean. To one who crosses, during a severe g^uud sea, from the southern side of Tortola to the northern, where the breadth of the island is inconsiderable, the singpular spectacle is afforded of the sea, which, on the southern side is perhaps " as smooth as glass," on the northern shore tossing, foaming, and roaring, as if agitated by a severe gale. The effect is most curious, and if it were not for the warning that is heard long before the cause becomes visible, one might fancy the wand of a magician in action. The northern eoaat of Porto Rico is subjected to a ground sea, of scarcely less forc^, and which has had the same effect on its coast as that of the Virgin Isles. The ' Old English Pilot" observes that the sea along the North coast oi Porto Rico "beats sometimes very raginvly." The force of the waves that batter against the clifl^ on which the Moro stands is amazing ; aud any observer will admit that the spray is sometimes carried more than 100 feet high. It has been said that, several years ago, a brig, in consequence of carelessness, here became unmanageable, and was soon dashed to pieces against the cli£b, but few of the crew escaping. 6.— THE CURRENTS OF THE COLOMBIAN OR CARIBBEAN SEA, AND THE MEXICAN GULF. (186.) " On the Colombian coast, from Trinidad to Cape la Vela, the current sweeps the fix>ntier islands, inclining something to the South, according to the straits which it comes trom, and running about 1| miles an hour, with little difference. Between the islands and the coast, and particularly in the proximity of the latter, it has been remarked that the current at times runs to the West, and at others to tiie East. From Cape le Vela the princinal part of the current runs W.N.W.; and, as it spreads, its velocity diminishes. Tnerc is, however, a branch, which runs with the velocity of about a mile an hour, directing itself toward the coast about Cartagena. From this point, and in the space of sea comprehended between 14° of latitude and the coast, it nas, however, been observed, that, in the dry season, the current runs to the west- ward, and in the season of the rains, to the eastward. " On the Mosquito shore, and in the Bay of Honduras, no rule can be given for the alterations of the current. All that can be said is, at a good distance from land, it has generally been found setting towards the N.W. " In crossing fh>m the coast, or teom Cartagena, to the islands, it has been dis- covered that firom La Guayiu to the eastern part of Hayti, on a voyage made in December, a difference of 106 miles to the westward was found dunng the seven days the voyage lasted.'^ — Derrotero de Uu Antillaa. (187.) The Baron Alexander von Humboldt, in describing his passage from Cu- mana, westward, to La Guayra, said : — " The general motion of the waters between the tropics toward the West is felt strongly on the coast during two-thirds of the J ear only. In the months of September, October, and November, the current often ows toward the East, for fifteen or twenty days in succession. Vessels on their way fl*om La Guayra to Porto Cabello have been known to be unable to stem the current that runs from West to East, although they had the wind astern. The cause of these anomalies is not yet discovered. The pilots think that they are the effect of some CURRENTS OF THE WEST INDIES. 303 galea of wind from the N.W. in the Oulf of Mexico ; vet these gales are much more violent in spring than in autumn. It is also remarkable, that the current to the East precedes the change of the wind. It begins to be felt, at first, during a calm ; and after some days the wind iteelf follows the current, and becomes fixed in the West." — Personal Narrative, vol. iii. p. 378. (188.) Captain C. S. Cochrane, R.N., in his Journal, 16th March, 1823, says—" In the afternoon we perceived high land through the haze, and hauled up for it, wishing to make a point about 50 miles to the windward of Santa Marta ; but, on getting in- shore, we found that we were 7 miles to the leeward of that place, the current from the eastward having been running for the last twenty-four hours upward of 2| knots an hour ; which agrees with Baron Humboldt's account, that the carrent runs from 1^ to 4 knots an hour, according to the force of the wind and season of the year. The natives say, that the moon likewise has a considerable effect on this current, which, at the changes of new and full, runs to tiie eastward for 24 hours. " Here 1 must caution all captains of ships navigating on this line of coast to allow for the current, in general, at least 1\ knots per hour, on an average, with an increase in proportion to the str i> fth of the breeze, and an abatement at the new and full moons 5 otherwise vessek heavily laden, overshooting their ^rts, may lose as much as three weeks by having to stand away nearly to the Antilks before they can get sufficiently to windward to gain the port they have missed ; and even men-of-war run a risk of carrying away spars and masts in beating up." — ^Vol. i. p. 62. (189.) In the third volume of the " Colombian Navigator," 1839, may be found " Remarks on the Currents of the Atlantic and West Indies made by Lieut. A. H. Bisschop Greevelink, in the Echo, a brig of the Dutch Royal Navy, during four years of service, 1833 — 1837," and which describe the route of that vessel from England to Surinam, in August and September, 1833. On the evening of the 13th of the latter month, the Echo, having arrive ' inlat. 17° N., and long 36^ W., lost the trade-wind, and the wind then shifted to the N.W., vrith a strong breeze, gloomy weather, and much rain, during the twenty-four hours. The m the com- mon blue to a somewhat darker hue, and, as this was a somewhat uncommon case, I attributed it to a branch of current observed the following day at noon, setting due North, at the rate of more than a mile an hour, straight across a south-easterly cur- rent observed during the preceding days, mingling the muddy waters of the Marafion and other rivers with those of the ocean. From uie 24th till the 28th nothing par- ticular occurred ; we were always steering to the S.W. with light, variable winds, and a' continuance of rain sufficient to penetrate our very bones. Currents weak and changeable, being lastly observed to have run N. by W. 18 miles in twenty-four hours. This at present I call weak, being afterward accustomed to fall in with a velocity of twice and thrice that number of miles. At noon we altered our course to W.S.W., being then in lat 6° T, and long. 49" 56' 66". In the night, however, having a lunar altitude, we were not a little surprised at finding the ship thrown 36 miles to the northward of her supposed situation, although I may s^ to Imve been prepared for this occurrence by Capt. Edw. Sabine's relation in the Memoir, whose track we were crossing just then, in the same month. At break of day we saw the water totally altered in colour, and thickly mingled with mud, as if we were sailing in a flood of ochre ; hove the lead, and found 46 fathoms, fine sand, white and black. At seven in the morning, by chronometric ob- servations, I found the westerly ofiiset 33' 38" ; and finally, at noon, in lat. 5° 21' 49", Ion. 61° 46' 16", it appeared evident that the current, in tiie last twenty-four hours, had been running with the ra^i^ty of 67 miles to the N. 30° W. In the afternoon we perceived the land toward the S.W. by S., beinf the Family Islands of Cayenne, and at the same time we entered the boundary of the tides. This, indeed, seems to confirm the opinion of those seamen who attribute the prin- cipal sti'ength of currents hereabout to the waters of the Maranon, &c., predominat- ing over those of the ocean ; but this is to be admitted in a partial degree only ; for, as operating on the general direction of the Equatorial Current, I esteem it as of no influence at all. (190.) The numerous voyages made by the Echo in the West Indian Seas, with a particular detail of each, more especially in regard to the currents, are given in the volume above mentioned ; and from these voyages and experiments the general* in- ductions are, that between the Caribbee Islands and the coast of Guyana, in the months of August, September, and October, the current veered to the northward of North-west, and in other months more westerly, or even to the southward of West, as in November and December, 1834 ; but we Icam, also, that the greatest velocity of current has been observed in August and September, when the Mara&on is at its lowest level, as well as in Decem^r and March, when this river begins to increase and attains its greatest height ; even on examining the details, in order to discover any reg^arity m its force, we find an irregularity reconcileable only with that of the wind ; and, more generally, by applying the theory of trade-winds, and tiieir influence upoa the sur&oe water of the ocean. After having once rebounded from the Brazilian coast, the united Equatorial and Ethiopic CuiTcnts are again compelled to retire westward by influence of the S.E. trade-wind (apparently, also, by the disposition of tbe waters in these regions to re- tire westward) ; and, although at pressing the Mara&on, which disembogues toward the N.E., the combined cun-ent may, in some degree, and according to its variable form and strength, derive an impulse to the northward, vet it soon yields to the force of the N.E. trade-wind, and the south-westerly drift thereby produced, which sets toward the Caribbee Islands. In proportion to the force and extent of these winds, the general current is pressed toward the shore of Uuyana, as in December, 1836, and NovenibdF and DeoiouibeF, in CURRENTS OP THE WEST INDIES. 900 tUowed to ae lew in e and 46th I the com- aon case, I letting due sterly our- e Maranon >thing par- ble winds, ) weak and wenty-four in with a ir coarse to i^rprised at a, although e's rehition L. dj mmgled i found 46 lometric ob> . 5° 21' 49", ■four hours, le afternoon )f Cayenne, Lte the prin- predonunat- e only ; for, it as of no eas, with a iven in the general* in- yana, in the orthward of of West, as t velocity of lon is at its to increase to discover 1 that of the eir influence uatorial and of the S.E. gions to re- [^ues toward its variable to the force , which sets !nt is pressed I T\ V._ 1 Ajvwunmit 1934 { or allowed to expand freely to the North, as in Auffust, September, and OotolM3r{ yea, even to the N.E„ as m March, 1837, especially vnien preceded by long and violent indraughts, and followed by calm weather. By influence of the Maraiion waters, the general current is prevented from swee^ ing t he c oast to the westward of Cape North ; as the stream of this great river, being unobstructed, seems to gather ' 1 Its strength, and force the western ooundary of tbrat gigantic drift to an uncertain distance bom shore. In this manner we may account for the weak westerly current, creeping^ along that part of the coast comprehended betweoi the Mara&on and Oulf of Pana, caUed the reffion of the tidtt, and wUch is produced bv the remaining effluxion of the Marion, confined between the western border of tne general current and the muddy banks of Gujrana. It is incorrect to fix Miis bMder in 9 fitthoms of water) as I have found it in twice and thrice that depth ; but on the other hand, I think tiiat, if what has been supposed by Admiral Cosmg de Churruca should ever again happen, — I mean tiie destroying of the Equatorial Current by the aotion of the rivers, — ^the Atlantic will be found of a whitish hue, so fta as these currents shall reach, because their thick muddy waters never mingle with those of the ocean until they have been subdued by, and are at rest with, them. The direction of currents in the Atlaniie is reconcileable with the force and direction of the trade-wind, but not without excrotions ; because the height of the water-level in the Caribbean Sea wiU sometimes baffle every calculation both within and without the raoge of islands, as shown indubitably by experiments foimded, not only upon the method of ascertaining currents at sea, but also within sight of land, and olMerva- tions made on shore uong the coasts. It has also been found that during calm weather, even with strong easterly winds, the currents have sometimes been running for days together to the eastward, especially in the latter parts of January and July, when, by the then prevailing strong winds, the water is heaped up in a very uncom- mon degree, and the inner part of the Caribbean Sea, most probably overcharged, succeeds in re-establishing its equilibrium by forsaking the power of its wrathAd driver. In this manner, I think, we ought to reconcile those circumstances men- tioned by that illustrious Spanish commander. In the Caribbean Sea the force and direction of currents are more distinctly modi- fied by the direction of the wind. With continual light winds and smooth water the currents are generally weak, augmenting only in proportion to the increasing wind. This may serve as a proof that, among other less perceptible causes, under which they are governed here, wind is the most powerfid agent ; for the indraught through the channels appears plainly to proceed from the force and extent of the trade- winds. Inthis sea, from l^e Windward Islands westward, .i 72° of lonGntude, the general direction of currents, observed during our four years' cruise, was N.W. and westerly ; the weakest in October, November, April, and May , the stron^t in December, January, February, and March, along the coast of Venezuela, and in July a'^d Atwust in the northern parts ; but, in genertu, so much always always depended ou *he force of the wind, that, witii few exceptions, almost everv voyage was affected by a force qf current corresponding to that of the prernTiiUng mnd. (191.) EXTBACTB FROM THE JoUaNALS OF LIEUTENANT GkEEVELINK. — « In January, 1834, tiie 'Echo, in crossing the Caribbean Sea, from Cura<^ to windward, experienced a drift of 40 miles to the West, and escaped only by running straight for the coast of Hayti, beating to windward along that and the coast of Porto Rico, with the best success, and oven assisted W weak easterly currents when near the shore. Wind from the E.N.E.. sometimes blowing a gale ; but, when sheltered by the land, tile water was tolerably smooth. " 7m December, 1836, the Echo, then on her passage from Surinam to Cura^^ao, with sharp breezes, found the current sweeping through the channel between Tobago and Qranada, and farther on, alons; the Leeward Islands, with a velocity of more than 2 miles an hour to the W. by N. ; but, m October, 1836, on the same route, with light winds and calms, the water ran for days together to the northward, at the rate of only half a mile an hour. " Jn March, 1836, the name vessel, from Cura(;ao to La Ouayra with very strong 2 Q 306 OBSERVATIONS ON THE CURRENTS. winds, spent six days in beating up against a current of 40 miles mean daily strength ; and on tne 8th of April left La Guayra for Porto Cabello, in the bight to the west- ward, when, instead of making this passage in some hours, she had, during three days, to contend with light, variable, and even westerly winds, and currents to the N.E. 15 miles daily. " The Baron von Humdoldt's remark about the increase of the currents near the Testigos proved true on our approach to the same islands, in December, 1835.* In the mdmmg of the 12th, the longitude observed was 62° 45' 15", and the difference West in twenty-four hours appeued to be 32' 15' ; shortly after, that cluster of rocks came in sight ; and at noon, at the very moment that the sun passed the mt'^.dian, the S.W. island, placed by Don J. F. Fidalgo in 63° 12', bore East, distance one mile, having run by log 20 miles to the W. | N. ; so that, during tiiese last four hours, the westerly difference amounted to 8 miles, whereas, in former watches, it was only 5| miles. « A similar circumstance, we have reason to believe, also takes place at other groups of this range of sunken islands, and near such capes as are low and reaching far out, so as to obstruct the motion of the water beneath, and thereby redouble the force of the surface current ; as denoted by the many instances of shipwreck and carcases of vessels (sad admonishers of pi'Qcaution) spread among these flat, barren rocks, and produced solely by the irregularity of currents, which baffle every calculation, even those of the coast traders. " But this variety in the westerly currents here is not the only cause of danger. The total change in the setting of me currents from West to East is of a nature which requires the utmost care and attention, as they not only occasionally happen with oauns, but also sometimes with fresh breezes from the eastward. One of the first- mentioned instances, particularlv remarkable, we observed during our passage, in October, from Surinam, through the Channel of Granada, toward Curasao. On the 7th and 8th, between the Island of Tobago and Cape Malapasqua, the water flowed to the N. by E. and N.hy W., with a trifling foroe ; when sudaeiUy, on the 9th, we had a difference of 17' 54" North, and 34' West ; and on the following day, at the new moon, we were driven 11' 12' to the North, and 35' 54" to the eastward of our supposed situation. This case was too singular not to excite our attention, as the hi^h moimtains of Caracas showed us almost hourly the East or westerly direction m which we were driven ; the weather being ^rfectly calm, and the water constantly smooth, by which means we were able to verify our chronometrical observations, and to remove every doubt respecting the truth of so extraordinary a circumstance, the result whereof was as follows : — '* By the westerly current we drifted in sight of the high land near La Cfuayra, and kept working up against the strong easterly set in the whole following day. On the lOtn, from seven in the morning tifi four in the afternoon, we had 14 miles differ- ence West, agreeing with the bearing of Monte Avila. From that time till six in the evening, when that mountain^ of which we had lost sight for a moment by drifting to the westward, a^aiu became visible, the water flowed again to the eastward ; and on the 11th, at six m the morning, with an observed latitude, and the said mountain bearing S.E. by S., we were in long 67° 21' ; and this by calculation being 67° 47', we found a difference of 26 miles to the eastward in sixteen hours. ' From this time till four in the afternoon, again 10 miles to the West ; and from thence until the follow- ing morning, 22 miles easterly difference. During the night we hove-to, to the south- ward of Caracas Bay, Curasao, and were obliged to keep Little Curasao in mind, as the current was setting strongly to the eastward. " Whether this flux and reflux were caused by the moon (then new), or by any other agent, I shall not attempt to determine. Indisputably there occasionally * The remark is as follows. The Baron, on approaching the Testigos, 14th July, 1709, says — " During a calm, the current drew us on rapidly toward the West. Its velocity was 3 miles an hour, and increased as we approached tho meridian of the Testigos, a heap of ■ \.!-i : ;j i.1. j._„ »» . a t r CURRENTS OF THE WEST INDIES. 307 appear satisfiEiotoiy reaaons for ascribing to that luminary some infloenoe over the carrents in these regions, and the above-mentioned case is probably one of them ; but, as Captain Livingston says on the 8ub)ect, ' the winds have a still more powerfol in- fluence.' Indeed, when roving in these seas, studying the Memoir and the CotunMan Navigator, and enjoying the pleasure of reading all uiat science and skill have ever produced in the description of these regions, we always meet with Captain Living- ston's remarks as so many illustrations, and feel a continusd increase of respect for so accomplished a navigator. " The reflux of the current to the eastward, for some hours daily, we had also occa- sion to observe, in January, 1834, near the coast of Hayti, Porto Rico,' and evea in the Atiantic, while working up with smart breezes, and even with very strong winds ; and once, in May, 1836, a merchant vessel, steering for Curasao, with her mainmast broken, passed in the night to the southward of Buen-ayre and Little Curasao, with- out seeing the land, being totally unacquainted with any existing current, and conse- quentlv ydth her real situation. At daybreak, finding herself oppodte the eastern part of Curasao, and supposing it to be the Island of Buen-ayre, she stood to the West for Curasao, as she thought ; but on her passing the harbour of St. Anna, she guessed her error, and tried to gain the entrance, in which phe succeeded toward sunset, after hard struggling with a strong wind and a rough sea, but assisted by a current to the easttcara. " It should be borne in mind that the captain of this vessel was unprovided with a time-keeper, from want of which he knew nothing about easterly or westerly currents ; and if, on his approaching Buen-ayre, he had accidently stood a few miles to the N.W., so as to make its northern coast, he would have found a watery grave, designated, perhaps, only by some piece of floating timber, a splinter, or broken spar. " The uninterrupted easterly currents alluded to have already been mentioned by Baron j\ von Humboldt; and, whenever I witnessed them, I found them just as de- scribed by that celebrated traveller. It may, however, be remarked that although this change in the general motion of the water is most common in the three months quoted, and chiefly along the Colombian coast, yet sometimes it also happens in other months, and in other parts of the Caribbean Sea ; as we, in fact, once experienced it in Decembar, once in April, near the coast above mentioned, and once in March, oh our passage (torn Guadoloupe to Barbadoes, during which vessels from St. Yineeiit's made their way toward the same islands in a few hours." (192.) Mr. Town, in his "Directions for the Colombian Coast,"* has said:— " Althcogh between the Island of Jamaica and the Spanish Main westerly currents are most frequent, yet they do not always prevail ; for ships have been known to be driven by the current from 60 to 60 miles to the eastward in four or five days. From the beginning of May till November ^the rainy season), the sea-breeze seldom or never blows home to the main ; end ships going there should never go to the southward of the latitude of 11°, until they ore at \east 40 or 60 miles to the westward of their intended port ; after whidi they may make a South course, as the land-breeze, which is generally from the S.W., ana the strong easterly current, will set you to the eastward of your intended port, if great care be not taken. When to the eastward, if li^ht winds prevail, you must stand to the northward imtil you meet the sea-breeze, which will be between the latitudes of 10° and 11°, and then run to the westward. " Being off Porto Bello, in H.M.S. Salisbury, on or about the 12th of August, 1816, and being a little to the eastward of that port, with light variable winds for several days, the ship was to the eastward, at the rate of 30 miles per day ; and, having been afterwards placed in the same situation, I found it necessary to make the land well to the westward, and to keep close to it. From November until May (the dry season) you should endeavour to make the land well to ^ he eastward, and run along shore ; as * See the " Colombian Navigator," vol. ill., p. 231. -Zii^rSfiym. ■'i'- 306 OBSBHVATION8 ON THE CURRENTS. the sea breezes generally blow very strongly, and the current sets to the wecrtwiM^ at. the aate of about 2 or 3 miles an hour. " Between Chagre and Porto Bello, during the rainy season, there is generally a northerly current, at the rate of from 1^ to 2| miles an hour. After the end of the rainy season the current sets to the southward and westward, and strong southerly and easterly winds prevail here. From November imtil May (the dry aeaton) the southerly and westerly are very light winds, except in squalls, which end with heavy rain. In sudden squalls you will often have the wind from all points of the compass. " If at Chagre at any time during the rainv season (May till November), and bound to the eastward, endeavour to get 4 or 6 leagues from the land so soon as you can ( foa the winds are, in general, very light, and the current very strong. The latter sets fi«m Chagre directly os ike rocks of Porto Bello, and thence along the land from E. by N., E.N.E., E.S.E., and according as the land lies; its general rate being from 1| to 2^ miles in an hour. Great care should be taken when near the land, if a heavy squall and rain appear to be conting on. During this von will have the wind from all points of the compass, and often so strong that all sail must be taken in. « In crossing the Qulf of Darien, little or no current will be found : wherever there is any, it sets about South, S. by W., or S. by E., up the gulf. "Near Cartagena the current generally goes with the wind ; but off the Islands of Rosarito it sets to tiie N.W. and N.N.W., from 1 to 2 miles an hour. ** Between Cartagena and the Magdalena, in the rainy season, you cannot put any dependence on the winds or currents; but, from November to May, the trade wind blows home. " I should recommend, if turning to. windward, with strong trade winds, to keep the shore close-to; whereas, by going off from the land, you will not only have a heavy sea, but also a strong N.W. current. If you have light variable winds, approach no nearer to the land than 4 or 5 leagues, as you may be certain of easterly current." Captain Livingston says : — "During five weeks in which I remained at Cartagena, in June and July, 1817, the current in-shore set constantly and strongly to the north- wurd, at a rate, I am convinced, of not less than 1^ miles an hour, or nearly as strong as the Mississippi at New Orl^ns : I have seen tne Eak sloop of war, current-rode i^ainst a very free^ sea-breeze, when at anchor, nearly West from the city, distant about half a mile." (193.) Upon the Cubkent between the Grand Cayman and Cape Antonio, Cant. Monteath had said : " In the months of May, 1814 and 1815 ftwo voyages in which I was chief mate of the ship Prince Hegent, fivim Kingston) ; in June, 1817, in the ship Fame ; and in April and December, 1820. in the ship Mary, befween Grand Cayman Island and Cape Antonio, I invariably found the current setting strong to the eastward, or E.S.E. ; and I have heard it pfenerallv remarked that vessels shaping a course from the' Caymans for Cape Antonio have round themselves off, or even to tlie eastwa,rd of. Cape Corrientes : this has, in the above cases, invariitbly happened to myself." Farther on,"In my passage from Kingston toward Campech6, in the ship ^m«, June, 1817, between Cape Antonio and Cane Catoche, I fo^.^nd the current to set due North, 27 nules, in a run of eighteen hours. We have already given, in a preceding page, the remarks of the Spanish navi- gators on the Currents of the Mosquito Shore and Bay of Honduras. We now add those of our friends Captains W. J. Capes, of London, and John Burnett, of Port Glasgow. * Captain Capes says : — " Between Jamaica and Bonacca the current generally sets to the northward and westward. Here, in May, 1816, 1 was set 60 miles to the west- ward by the current, and found that it set rather northerly, from one quarter to half H mile au hour." .. . j ■ CURRENTS OF THE WEST INDIES. 309 istward at lenerally a end of the ; Bontherly teauon) the end 'with tints of the nber), and son as you 'oag. The along the ineral rate a near the 1 will have dlnrast be rever there ) Islands of iOt put any trade wind Is, to keep only have able winds, of easterly Cartagena, thenorth- y as strong orrent-rode ity, distant ONio, Capt. in whioh I 817, in the reen Grand I strong to els shaping or even to Y happened Fbm«,June, due North, onish navi- e now add Btt, of Port nerally sets o the wcst- rt«r to halt' '* If a ship be lying-to, under Rattan, it will not be amiss to trv the current. It i» my opinion that the current about Bonacca takes two different oireotions ; one part setting to the N.W., and the other part branching to the S.S.W. I have found it so on several trials, which ia the reason that I prefer taking a departure (for the bay) from the middle or East end of Rattan : for, if a ship take her departure fh>m the West end, her course will be N.N.W. ; but it very fi^quently happens that sUps get down on those reefs when they take their departure from the West end. The reason is this : a ship steering N.W. from the West end has more of the current on her beam, which sweeps round the end of Rattan very strong at times; consequently,' ships that take their departure from the East or middle part rio not fieel so much of the current." Captain Burnett, in his directions for sailing from the Bay of HoNDUBAB, says : — « When the trade wind prevails, a current, often very strong, sets down between Mauger Kay and the Northern Triangle ; there, dividing itself, it sets to the south- ward, between Tnmeff and the maia reef, and to the northward between the Triangle' Reef and Ambergris Kayi It is most advisable, with the wind from East to E.S.E., to sail to leeward of Htxe Triangle, as you will have a strong current in your &vour so' soon as you bii^g it to the eastward of you. . *' In the channel between the Island Cosumel and the shore, the current along shore runs at the rate of nearly 2| miles an hour, till lost in the Mexican Sea." In the ship George IV., 14th of March, 1824, Captain Hamlin fooud the inset into the Mexican Sea, uong the coast of Yucatan, E.E. 42 miles in the twenty-four hours. Lat. at noon 19° 24', long. 87° 7'. On the next day it set toward Campech6 Banki northerly 50 miles. In the brig Becovery, 6th of September, 1822, the same commander found the current on tiie N.E. si^ of the Yucatan or Campech^ Bank setting about 1| miles to the northward. Next day, on proceeding toward the Mississipi, weather oaJm and very sultry, at five p.m. saw two very large waterspouts to the N.W. At half-past seven a smart squall came on suddenly. At eight cleai^d up ; light winds with much l^htening. At ten, next morning, severe squalls, which spUt uie main top-gallant- sail and m>om mainsail. Lat. at noon 26° 42', long. 86° 63'. (194.) Bottles.— Caribbean Sea to Yucatan. — AhotaBtcomU.M.8. Chanticleer, in lat. 16° 29', long. 7^" , at uuon on the 63rd of February, 1831 (the ship being to the southward of Jani iica), was picked up on the 20th of the next April upon the eastern coast of Yucatan, after having traversed over a distance of nearly 700 miles, at the rate of 28 uuIom per day. Serbanilla to Yucatan. — ^A bottle tram a boat belon«ng to H.M. surveying- ship Thundei-. at anchor under Serranilla West Kav, 10th of March, 1834 ; picked up at Half-Motm Kay, in the Bay of Honduras, on tne 23rd of the next month, April \ rate 10 miles per day. ToBAOO TO THE Cathan. — ^A bottle from the American brig Emma, on her way from Philadelphia to Berbice, 17th of June, 1838, in lat. 11° 4', long. 68° 60'; picked up on the 27th of the following Aug^ust, upon the eastern shore of the Grand Cayman, 2000 miles, at tho rate of 28'6 miles per day. Windward Channel, between Jamaica and Hayti. — ^A bottle from H.M.S. Thunder, in lat. 18° 66', long. 74° 66', 7th of April, 1839 j current then setting S.W. by S. half a knot ; picked up in the Grand Anse, near Jeremie (long. 7° 1'), on the 24th of the same month. Hayti to Florida. — A bottle, some years ago, from the ship Behert, Captain Coulter, eastward of Alto Vela, on the south coast of Hayti ; picked up about thirteen months afterward on the shore near St. Mary's in Florida. Fr.->m bottles enumerated in Captain Becher's list: — Ship Race-horae, Captain Home, thrown over in lat. 12° 12', long. 66° 80', 17th April, 1836; piekedup April 22nd, 'xi Boncdre, 160 miles in 6 days. Ship Chanticleer, Captain Austen, thrown over February, 23rd, 1831, in lat. Id' 30', long. 76'; picked up on the east coast of 310 OBSERVATIONS ON THB CURRENTS. Yucatan, April 80th, 680 miles In 06 days. H.M.S. Thunder, Captain Bamett, thrown over at CliagTes, April 29th, 1840; reached Belize, October Ist, 1840. H.M.S. Thunder, March lOui, 1834, started at Serranilla Bank; picked up near Belize, April 23rd, 576 miles in 44 days. (195.) On the northern coast of Hayti, and in the Windward Passages, there does not appear to be any general current. Ou the North side of Cuba the case is nearly the same ; but in the channel here is a regular tide throughout the year, subject, how- eyer, to certain variations. The currents of the Caribbean Sea appear to be varied by the influence of the moon and change of seasons, and combine, in some degree, with the tides ; especially about Cuba, Jamaica, and Hayti. In the Cahama Passages the currents are devious ; both weather and leensurrents having been found. These, also, appear to be influenced by the tidal causes ; for the tides are operative on the banks, and sometimes set strongly. (196.) Bahama Islands, &c. — ^The following is extracted from Captain Maury's <* Sailing Directions," eighth edition, vol.. ii. Captain Wm. C. Berry says : — " Having had long expecence in the trade between New York and New Orleans, I herewith furnish you with a few remarks on winds and currents. For the last six years I have commanded the ship Vickaburgh, constantly trading between ^ese two' ports. In making the passage out, after passing the llole-in-the-Wall, I have fre- quently found a current from one to three miles per hour, settine to the eastward through the north-west channel of Providence, particularly after the wind has pre- vailed from the eastward a few days. This no doubt has been the cause of putting a number of vessels on shore among the Berry Islands. I have latterly made it a pomt to take the last bearings of the light on the Hole-in-the-Wall, and either haul up or keep off as I found the current ; generally running on a west course until quite down with Little Stirrup Keys, then steering W. by N. | N., by compass, if in the night, until I was up witn the Great Isaacs. The last three voyages, having reached the the vicinity of the Little Isaacs in the day time, I have hauled in on the baak between the western Little Isaacs and the east Brother Rock, and steered S.W. by W., by compass, which has brought me out in good passing distance from the MoseUe Shoal. During one of my summer passages out, after passing the above shoal, I was com- pelled to anchor, and remained there for six days. The wind during all this time was light from the southward, and I could not help remarking the regularity of the current setting along the Bemini Islands, ebb ana flow, about two miles per hour. This continues as far as Gun Key, when close in little or no current is experienced, except the ebb and flow, which is directly off the bank. In crossing the Santaren Channel, the current is governed greatly by the winds ; with strong southerly winds the current sets about N^N-W., two miles per hour ; on the other hand, with strong northerly winds, little or no current is felt. After leaving the Double-headed-Shot Key, I hove generally hauled over for the Florida Reef, and in the day time kept close-in, when I have frequently found an eddy current setting to the westward from one to one and a half miles per nour. After passing the Tortugas, I have invariably felt a southerly current until I had reached the longitude of 84° 30' W., and even further than this at times, as will be seen by referring to my journals, particularly in November, 1848. " Returning from New Orleans, I have always made it a point to keen to the west- ward until I nad reached the longitude 86°, latitude 28°, ocfore keeping off. My object in doing this is, that the wind here generally prevails from the northward and eastward, and that the current generally seta to the southward and eastward, which generally facilitates the passage. After rounding the Tortugas, with the wind from tne eastward, 1 have generally beat down on the Florida side, knowing that the strongest current jjrevails on that shore, unless too close-in. From Carysfort Reef to Matanilla, I have always endeavoured to keep in the centre of the stream. During all my voyages, I have made it a rule to steer from Matanilla to latitude 22°, N. by iV., uiid tiicn noFiii lO t&tiiUuc 3i'\ u€-»ore iiaUiing sip N.E. by N. » by so doing ^ have, with a few exceptions, kept the strongest current. On some other orcasionR, I have hauled up on n N,K. by N. coursi', whi-n in latitude 30'. longitude 70' 40', and CURRENTS OF THE WEST INDIES. 311 Bsmett) Let, 1840. i up near there does ) is nearly jeot, how- ' the moon Eilly about e-currents 8 ; for the I Maury's Orleans, I le last six these two' have fre- ! eastward has pre- puttin^ a I it a point aul up or [uite down the night, ached the k between by W., by me Shoal, was com- this time ity of the per hour, pcrienced, Santaren rly wiads th strong aded-Shot time kept yard from invariably and even eularly in the west- off. My ward and rd, which vind from tliut tlie it lleof to During N.by i„j. — > A^ 'OHHionfl) I 10", and have soon found myself on the eastern edge of the gulf. After rounding Cape Hatteras, it is advisable to keep to the westward, especially in the winter season, on account of the prevailing westerly winds." (197.) The FOLLOWING is an additional DETAIL of the best information we have been able to collect of the currents in the Ctuibbean and Mexican Seas, from the Derrotero de las Antillas, 8fc. In the Channel between Trinidad and Grenada the current has been found to set nearly West ; on the South side half a point southerly, and on the North side half a point northerly. Its velocity from 1 mile to 1^ and 2 miles per hour. Between Granada and St. Vincenfa, among the Oranadines, the currents are devious ; but the general inset appears to be W. by N. Between St. Vincenfs and St. Lucia the current, from the eastward, sets in more northerly ; end within, on the West, it has been found setting to the N.W. Between these islands it seems to be as strong as in any other part of tbe range. Between St. Lucia and Martinique it has been found nearly North. Very variable on the western side of the latter. The current sets nearly in the same manner between Martinique and Dominica. Northward of Guadaloupe, it sets W. \ S. ; and between Montterrat and An- tigua, N.W. At the distance of about 1°, within the range of the Caribbee Islands, and to the Virgin Islands, the current has been found setting, in general, to the W.N.W. from 1 to 1| miles an honr.f In the Mona Passage, between Porto Rico and Hayti, the cuiTcnt has been marked as frequently setting to the N.W., and we have instAuces of a set through to the S.W. 5 but Captain Monteath, in February, 1816, when proceeding southward toward Porto Rico, in from lat 23|° to 22°, long. 64° to 65°, found the current setins N.N.E. at the rate of 20 miles in the twenty-four hours : and he says, that off the N.W. point of Porto Rico it invariably set from the Caribbean Sea to tne North and N.N.E. On the western side of the passage it set North, 2 miles an hour : but there have been instances of an inset from the N.W. From Trinidad, westward, apd off the North side of the Spanish Leeward Isles, the current has been found setting West and S.W. to the Qulf of Maracaybo ; thence S.W. also to Cartagena : but it varies, as already described. From Cartagena toward tbe Channel of Yucatan it has been found N.N.W., N.W., W.N.W., n 'I'N.W. by N., from 1 to nearly 2 miles, and then decreasing to 1| miles per hour, it has also been found setting to the eastward, as shown in the present pages. (198.) COTUlter Currents. — From the foreg^oin^ it will be seen that the great drift which, passing from the Atlantic tiurough the Caribbean Sea into the Qulf of Mexico to feed the Oulf Stream, is not nearly so constant nor so strong as might be argued, « priori, from the apparent magnitude of that mighty current. Not only is it incon- stant even in the mid-channcl, but it is diverted by local causes und land configurations into opposite directions, as is shown to be the case in the great Bays of Guatemala and Honduras, as described below. Upon referring to the description of the Equatorial counter-current, as recited in (151 to 161.) pages 283 to 288, it is shown that it extends much farther to the west- ward, during the period when the sun is in northern signi*, than had been before attributed to it. This western extension of the Guinea Current, coincident with the increase of the belt of Equatorial calms (45.) page 198, and (50.) page 201, may owe * On the leeward side of the Virgin IrIos devious currents are found, frequently to the Routh-oMtward. The wimo hsvo beon observed on the western side of St. ChriBiCpuer'i, &e. ; but see, hereafter, the Particular Directions for Navigating among the windwora Islands. 312 OBSERVATIONS ON THE CURBENTS. its origin to the same causes, hitherto almost unexplained, as that to which this uncertainty of the great westerly drift across the Caribbean Sea is owing. Whether it is owing to the influence of tide, the eflTect of distant and local winds, or of teniperatnre, or of some hitherto unexplained effect of the earth's rotation, has yet to be argued. It is probable that hereafter a systematic examination of these apparently contradictory phenomena will lead to some important conclusions in the general subject of meteorology. (199.) In the Bats of Guatemala and Honduras, as above said, the currents are frequently found to be running rapidly from toeat to east, especially near the ahores. This counter-current is seldom encountered outside the lines which join their outer points. From Cape la Vela, or northward of the Qulf of Venezuela, the current generuly si'ts to the N.W. toward the Channel of Yucatan, as has been before remarked. " In the space between Cape Qracias a Bios and Cape de la Vela offiihoots and eddies from the great Equatorial current arc found. This assertion is not merely groimded on those oi former navigators, or on the examination of the coast outline, but on actual experience.* ■ " A writer worthy of great respect. Captain Mackellar, R.N., has stated — ' The current between the island of Jamaica and the Spanish main, or coast of Colombia, is not always to be depended upon as setting to the westward, as is gfenerally supposed ; for, in crossing from Jamaica to the main, ships have been known to be cuiven to the eastward by the current.' This circumstance must be of rare occurrence at the northern part of the passage, and is here mentioned to make known its possibility. I myself have made the runs across between Jamaica and the opposite main at many times and seasons, and tar., therefore, governed by practice as well as theory in the following remarks. ,,. {^ 1st. Local Current betwetn the south side of Jamaica, the Morant Kays, and Pedro Shoals. — This is very uncertain, both in rate and direction. Its rate may be from to 1| knot per hour ; and it direction either north, east, or west, according to existing circumstances. At the Morant Kays, the current is known to be variable. Over the Pedro Shoals it is supposed almost ever to run in a westerly direction. Between these two dangers, therefore, it behoves a ship at night to be full of precaution, and not to rely on the continuance of any cun-ent she may have ascertained, wheh cither to the northward or southward of her then situation. 2nd. Current southward of the Morant Kays and Pedro Bank, or between the parallels of 17° and 15°. This current runs, perhaps always, true West to N.W. by W. from 20 to 55 miles per day. Among the Mosquito Shoals the currents are equally strong and more uncertain. Between latitude 15° and a line extending from Cape do la Vela and Cape Gracias a Dies, including some of the Mosquito Kays, the direction is W.S.W. to ri.W. 20 to 40 miles per day. 3. Southward of the imaginart/ line between the Capes de la Vela and Chaeias a Dios and to the distance of 30 miles from the coast, the sets are so very variable as to as to baffle all system. Sometimes no current whatever is felt ; at other periods it may run north, south, cast, or west, 35 miles a day. Let it be borne in mmd, how- ever, that their direction is very seldom toward the east, but generally toward the west. St. Andrew's Isle and the frontier rocks of the Mosquito Bank are equally bepct by changeable currents, of velocities amounting \jo fifty miles a day. 4. Inshore or Land Current, between Cape Manzanillo, near Porto Bello, and San Juan do Nicaragua. ThiH rurront sotB from westward to eastward. It is an eddy, striking out from the Caribbi-an Current at Cape Gracias a Dios, and eventually re- turning into it, with a broken and divided force, to the north of Cartagena. Tlio • Remarks byCupt. W. 8. Smith, R.N., II.M.S. fMrns, 1833. CURRENTS OF THS WEST INDIES. 313 which this ocal 'windB, )tation, has >n of these lions in the le currents y near the h join their the current )een before a offiihoots not merely ast outline, atcd— « The :;!olombia, ia fr supposed ; riven to the ence at the ssibility. I in at many leory in the (, and Pedro J be from I to existing edro Shoals wo dangers, rely on the J northward between the to N.W. by uncertain. « Oracias a I^.W. 20 to Oraeias a triable as to it periods it mmd, how- toward the are equally lo, and San is an eddy, cntually re- igena. Tlio breadth of this current extends from the land to a distance of about 30 miles in the offing. Its rate is from one to two knots, and its direction parallel to tb«i curvature of the coast and capes. The streams out of numerous rivers, entering this current, seems to increase its rapidity ; for close in shore, between the rivers, the rate is seldom less than two knots i at nx miles off the land it runs about one knot ; and at a greater distance the same. (200.) From Cape Antonio the current sets, at times, to the E.S.E., past the Isle of Pines. Captain Livingston has informed us that, in March, 1818, he found the current between the Great Cayman and Isle of Pines to set in that Erection, at the rate of fully 2| miles in an hour, or 60 miles in the twenty-four hours. In August, 1817, he found the set nearly the same, but the current 'not half so strong. The S^niah Directory says : — " From Cape de Cruz, on the South side of Cuba, it is noticed that there is a constant current to the westward, with some inclination to the southward or northward, and which has been known sometimes to set 20 miles in a single day." In opposition to this, the exact words of Captain Livingston are — " I have twice experienced a strong current, setting about E.S.E., between the Caymans and Isle of Pines ; and on the lattei of these occasions both my mate and myself separately calculated it to set about 60 miles per day, or 2\ miles per hour. This, however, I incline to think a very particular case, such as may but seldom occur. The winds at this time were light and westerly. On the other occasion, so &r as I recollect, it set about 12 or 14 miles per day only. All my papers on these subjects have been lost ; but the first instance was too remarkable to be forgotten." (201.) Off the South side of Cuba the current has fr«quently been found setting to ir. >ward when the moon is increasing, or in her first two quarters ; and thus it K- u\ .T ' )s from Cape Antonio to Cape Maize. It is represented that it runs to the -'- > m Cape Antonio to, is not permanent, but, at times, on the contrary, imperceptible, according to the age of the moon ; and this has, we believe, been verified, in several instances, while the cause has remained unknown. . , ■, Captain Manderson had stated, that when a strong easterly wind has been blowing between Cuba and Florida, vessels heaving-to off the South side of Cape Antonio, at about 2 leagues from shore, have, in the course of one night, been carried against a strong sea breeze, nearly as high as Cape Corrientes, being a distance of 10 leagues. Our friend Captain Rowland Boorke, when once lying-to in the Archibald for the night off Cape Antonio, foimd himself next morning off Cape Corrientes. Mr. Dunsterville has said, " I am firmly established in an opinion, fh)m twelve years' observation, that not only ere the winds and weather on the West India station influenced by the changes of the moon, but the currents also j and it is fre- quently found that, if the waters run to the eastward, it is at the change and full of tne moon." ;, In an old book, already noticed {Kelly's Navigation, vol. i., 1733|, is an abstract from a journal, which contains the following pasnage : — " Between tne West end of Hispamola and tlie Island of Jamaica, if I took my departure upon a ftiU or change of the moon, I found that I made many leagues rouro than I did at the quarters of the moon. At the f\ill and change I was looking out for the land long befurc I saw it ; i\nd at the quarters, I was down upon it long before I looked for it. The reuHons, as I found afterward, were, that the fiiU ana change made a strong windward current, and the contrary on the quarters. This has been exemplified in many instances." On this subject Captain Livingston says, " It is a prevailing oninion with many, that the moon governs entirely the currents among the West India Inlnnds. No 314 OBSERVATIONS ON THE CURRENTS. doulit the moon has soine effe9t on them, but the winds have a still more powerful influence. " It is rarely, Indeed, on the North side of the Island of Jamaica that there is & westerly current when the North and N.W. winds prevail ; the current then always, or almost always, setting to the eastward. '■* On the South side of Cv' la, when the wind is westerly, which it often is, you are alwys certain of a r. Howing current rv/und Cape Antonio. This is easily account'!ufor J as when the iresh trade- wind ceases, and the westerly winds set in, the barrier is, in some degree, removed, which confined the waters in the Mexican Sea, and they seek to regain thair level as well by the channel of Yucatan as by the Strait of Florida." Between +he Isle of Pines and main land of Cuba is a strong north-easterly in- draught, generally running from 1 to 1 ^ miles an hour, and which has caused the loss of many vessels on St. Felipe Kays and the dangerous bank stretching therefrom to the westward. In the Windward Channel rv' Jamaica, the current generally sets with the wind to leeward or S.W. ; yet both here and at Jamaica it is variable. Some have affirmed that, when a current runs to leeward, on the South side of Jamaica, there is frequently one setting eastward on the North side ; and, at other times, no current is to be per- ceived i afio that, when a lee current runs on the North shore, the same circum- stances may be perceived on the South shore as were before observ'ed on the North. ^ (202.) Channel of Yucatan. — The principal entrance from the Caribbean Sea mto the Gulf of Mexico is 110 miles in width, between Cape Antonio, marked by its fine lighthouse, ani Cape Catoche, the N,£. point of Yucatar. The current most usually sets with considerable rapidity to the northward through it. According to the calculation of all fttainable observations derived from Major Rennell, Commander Maury, S^c, the following is the mean rate of the cun'ent in the various months : — January, 33 miles per day ; February, 34 miles per day ; March, 36 miles ; April, 33 miles ; May, 17 miles ; June, 26 miles ; July, 39 miles ; August, 31 miles ; September, 30 miles ; October, 38 miles ; November, 36 miles ; December, 48 miles per day. These velocities are much inferior to what might be supposed from the magnitude of the outset as formerly calculated, but this, as will be seen pre- sently, has been over-stated. (203.) At times the current is very strong, and every precaution should be taken against i' , Th ; iip Carahalton Park, Captain J. Steele Park, sailed for Jamaica for London Cii iie 20th May, 1824. At noon on the 27th she was off" the S.W. side of Cuba, in lat. 21°. 26', long, (by chronometer and lunars) 84° 47' W. Here was dicovered a current setting to the N.W, at the rate of 2 miles an hour. At half-past seven Cape Antonio bore N.W. 5 or 6 miles. " The current to the N.W.," says Ciintain Pane, " swept us into the Gulf of Mexico ; and there we were beating about t^ree or four days, making northing and westing in spite of our teeth. All this time the wind was easterly, and we might have cruised about there till Christmas, had the wind not got a little to the southward of East, which enabled us to get over to the N.E. .lide, where we found the current running directly opposite to the former," being now in the Florida Stream. At about 40 miles northtonrd of Cape Catoche the current has been found N.W. by W. I changing thence to S.S.W. off the N.W. point of Yucatan, nearly at the same distance from the coast. Rate, something less than half a mile an hour. (204.) Gulf of Mexico. — The Mexican Sea appears to be the receptacle and terminus of all the waters flowing westward, and although we are not perfectly acquainted with all the featares of tlie curionts, yet suffipiont is hnown to warrant the afflrmatif>n, fbiit the current through the Yuctttnn Cliannol divorginir to ooHtword and westward, the western branch oirciilatoH i.-ound the w'.olo of tlie sRoroH of the Gulf to westward northward, and those flowing eastward and south-eastward joins the CURRENTS OF THE WEST INDIIS. 315 powerful there is t; en always, an 18, you is easily ads set in, ) Mexican as by the lasterly in- led the loss lerefrom to he wind to re affirmed frequently 1 to be per- me circum- le North. ibbean Sea rked by its Trent most rom Major Tent in the ly J March, s; August, December, e supposed )e seen pre- i be taken for London [)f Cuba, in dicovered a seven Cape )tain ParK, iree or four lG wind wa3 nd not got ide, where low in the id N.W. by it the same ptaclo and )t perfectly warrant the sf vviird and xf the Gulf •d joins the e&atern, and perhaps principal, branch of the Yucatan current, forming the mighty uuiT Stream. On the Chart of the North Atlantic before mentioned the observations gfivcn in Repnell's and Maury's Chart having been integrated, it plainly shows that the circu- lation stated above does exist, and that it follows the main trends of the coasts of Yucatan 4ind Mexico, and thence along the coast of Texas, at rates varying from 14 to 31 miles per day. _ (205.) The mean temperature of the water of the Gulf of Mexico is probably as high as any part of the ocean, from several manifest causes, and hence it is, in the bed of the sea, that those nurseries of the Sargasso weed exist f 168.), which, torn from their habitat by the force of the current, are drifted into tnat great central area of the Atlantic, to which they give the characteristic peculiarly. It is also probable that animal life is peculiar and abundant in these tepid waters. " The phospnorescent lights observed in the Mexican Sea shine with greater bril- liancy (Apiil^ than I hud noticed elsewhere : some of these were very large, and flashed like tne priming of a gun, sometimes at a long distance from the 6hip. I observed that the little shing spiracles were confined to the sides of the vessel and her wake, and that the waves, when they broke into foam, did not (as in other parts of the ocean) sparkle. " The colour of the water in the Sea of Mexico is of a dai'k indigO; darker or more intense than that of the ocean generally ; the colour of the sea in the Florida Channel is a fine blue, not so dark as that of the Sea of Mexico, or of the ocean generally. Phosphorescent lights are equally abundiint in the Florida Stream, some uuuoually large and brilliant ; and some of the small lights appeared to spring out of the water with a sweep motion, which I had never before observed ; the temperature of tiie water was 79*, that of the air 76°."— J. E. (206.) The following exemplification of the currents of the Mexican Gulf is taken from the eighth edition of Maury's " Sailing Directionfi," vol. ii., p. 17 : — There is a constant set from tht Carribbean Sea into the Mexican Gulf to find the Gulf Stream. Vessels passing up to the northward may take advantage of it. It is bifuricated just after entering '"he Gulf. The bottle paper of the Heimes followed this Yucatan current to the " iork," and then took the western branch. » H.M.S. Hermes, 15th AfH, 1858, lat 17" 69' N., long. 78° 60' W., H. Congton, commander, J. E. Solfleet, master. This bottle thrown over at the West end of Jamaica, was found on the South point of Pad'^e Island, lat. 26° 6' N., long. 97° 10' W ., Aug. 23, 1857, and forwarded by Mr. J. R. Baker, Avho saye, ' The di-ift shown by the course of this bottle confinus my own observations since I have been here, viz., that the current divides between Cape Antonio and Ciipe Catoche, the western part of it keeps a westci-ly course until it reaches this coast between San Femandiuo on the coa^t of Mexico, and Corpus Christi on Texas, where it meets the south-westerly current from the coast of Florida and Louisiana. And it is strango to remark the mixture of floating objects thrown on the beach of this coast by tins meeting of the currents. Flat boats, oars, saw-lfgs, clap-boards, old skifis, &c., from the Mississippi mixed up with branches of the mangrove, mahogany, bay cedar, young cocoa-nuts, caTioe paddles of mahogany, JScc, from the Carribbean Sea and coast of Honduras.' " It may be remarked on this that the eastorhr winds may have something to do with the westerly drift from the Mississippi of objects which float high out of the waters. " Another bottle, from the ship Admiral, S. Pioken, commander, tl'»-own over on the Equator, long. 30" W., 17th February, 1856, came ashore at Aransas Pass, Texas, Oct. 24, 1856, 260 days afterwards, ha ing drifted 4,300 miles, or 16 miles per day." (207.) It is difficult to define the separation between the currents which pass east- ward and westward to the North of the Yucatan Channel. It is certain that they set with cv-asidcrable velocitv to the southward and south-eastward over the Tortugas Bank, and also to the S.E. from the Mississiiipi. Perhaps a line might be drawn from the centre of tlio strait to the mouth of the Miswissippi, to the west of wliich it 316 OBSERVATIONS ON TEE CURRENTS. -will usnally be found that the streanui nave westing in them, and to the east of it that they set towards the Gulf of Florida. In the strait between Cuba and the I ida ReeJb, that great stream which is de~ scribed in the next section, ht^s r^^ly its sommencement. .^..mi-':xit) ;t;;l 7.— THE GULF STREAM. (208.) The Florida or Gulf Stream has received more attention — ^has been the sub ject of more speculation— end has served as the basis of more tiieories, than all the other currents of the ocean collecti^ ely. Although modern research, conducted with all refinement, in contradistinction to the imperfect observation of the passing seaman in former yean, has shorn it of much of the grandeur and magnitnae it has been invested with, still it is a mighty uad majestic current, well worthy of all the laborious investigatioD which the philosopher or mariner have bestowed upon it. In the prfcedinff pages we have traced the course of the waters firom the shores of Europe down to the great set or tropical drift, and thence through the Channel of Yucataii to the entrance of the narrow channel between the north shore of Cuba and the Florida Kays. Here may be said to be the commencement of the Gulf Stream as an independent current, as it flows swiftly hence to the eastward in opposition to its previous course, and then northward through the narrows between Cape Florida and the Bemini Isles. Keeping this direction vrith its high velocity and temperature, it is deflected to the N.E. by the form of the American coast, and assimiing a more easterly direction, and gradually spreading its warmer waters over a broader area, it pursues its course with a gradually decreasing rate, though still much warmer than the sea on each side of it, it reaches the southern part of the banks of Newfound- land. At this part it encounters the southern Arctio Current, which, crossing its track and importing into it the influences of an artic temperature, and the counter- acting effects of an adverse current upon its diminished force and much decreased volume, it ceases to maintain its character as a Gulf Stream or an independent current. Its effects, however, in bearing the tepid water of the Gulf of Mexico with all the floatable objects collected in its progress, are still drifted onwards by the pre- vailing westerly and W.S.W. winds, which it has been shown (73.) page 212, pre- dominate over the ocean between this part and the western face of the Old Continent. It transports its influence and attaibutes over to the shores of Europe, the southern shores of Ireland, past Norway, and into the Arctic basin. Inside, or to the West of the Gidf Stream, along the eastern face of the United States, there >'s a cold, counter-current setting southwards from the Arctic regions, which will be described in its place hereafter. A similar counter-current, though of a different origin, nms to westward between the Gulf Stream and the Florida Kays. (209.) History. — The Gulf Stream was known by its present name, and in its now known form, from very ear.y times. Probably it was recorded and discussed at the first voyage undertaken by the discoverers and colonisers of North America, whr passed out by this Channel on their idtum voyage to Europe. As an example, John White, who went a voyage thither in 1590, says : — " July 30, 1690, lost sight of the coast of Florida, and stood to sea, for to gain the help or the current which runneth much swifter afar off than in sight of the coast ; for Irom the Cape [Florida] to Vir- S'nia all along the shore arc none but eddy currents setting setting to the S. and 8. W." ere we have not only the Gulf shown, but the inner counter-current alluded to, as V ^11 be dilated on hereafter. Agr^in, that excellent observer, William Dampier, in his " Discourses on the Trade WindL," &o., published in 1699, page 105, gives the following observations: — " And 'tis as probable, that the Current, which sets to Leeward on all the coast from Cane St. Atigustine to Cape Catoch, never enters the Bay of Mexico, but bends Btill to tnc Northward, till 'tis check'd by the Florida shore ; and then wheels about to the East, till it comes nearer the Uulph's Muuth, and there joyning with the soaking THE GULF STREAM. 317 I the Trade Current that draws down on the North aides of Hupaniola and Cuba, passes alto- gether 'with great strength through the Gulph of Florida, which is the most remark* able Gulph in the World for its Currents, because it always sets very strong to the North. Yet near the shores on each side this Gulph there are t: les especially on the Fiorida shore ; and Ships may pass which way they please, if they are acquainted. " It has formerly been accou.ited very dangerous to meet with a Jforth in this Gulph ; and for that Reason our Jamaica ships, to avoid them, have rather chosen to So to the Eastward and pass through the Cacusea in the season that the Norths do low. The Cactuea ate sands that lye off the N.W. end of Hispaniola. Those that went firom Port Boyal in Ji lica had good reason for this ; for if a North took them at their going out, it would help them forward in their way, which, should they have been going towards the Gulph, it would obstruct them. Then besides, if a North take a ship in the Gulph, the Wind blowing against the Current makes an extra- ordinary Sea, and so thick come the Waves one after another that a ship can't possibly live in it, yet of late they go through at all times Ox the Year, and if a North takes them in the Gulph, they put away right betbre the Wind and Sea, with a small heed sail ; yet the Current is then as strong or stronger thaji at other times, and forces them hack, stern formost against both Wind and Sea ; for tho' the surface of the Sea is raised in Waves and driven violently with the Winds to the southward, yet the Current underneath runs still to the Northward ; neither is it any strange thing to see two different Currents at one place and time, the superficial Water running one way, and that underneath running a quite contrary : For sometimes at an anchor, I have seen the Cable carryed thus by two different Streams, the under part having been doubled one way, and the upper pait the contrary." It is, therefore, somewhat surprising that a claim should of late years have been made for Dr. Franklin as the real discoverer of its nature and its warmth in 1770. The tale is this : BeiiTg in London in that year he was consulted by the Treasury as to why the Falmouth packets were generrilya fortnight longer to New York than common traders were from Loadon to Providence, Rhode Island ? He, therefore, consulted a Nantucket whaler, who explained that the Rhode Island captains being acquainted with the Gulf Stream, avoided it, while the Falmouth commanders being ignorant of it, were set back 60 or 70 (! !) miles a day by it. The Nantucket captain laid its course on a chart, which is also stated to have been followed almost without an alteration. Without 8top|^ing to refute this altogether, which may be done by Dam- pier and Lis predecessors, ? t will be evident that something else than the Gulf Stream must have retarded them 00 or 70 miles a day in that latitude, if they were thus delayed. (210.) Causes. — ^There have been very many speculations as to the cause of this great stream, but they have been promulgated before any increase of knowledge upon which to foimd arguments, and as has been said above, recent investigations have over- turned most of those which have been advanced. It has been supposed that it runs out of the Gulf of Mexico from the superior level of that soa, but facts are wanting for such an assumption. Captain Manderson, R.N., promulgated an opinion in his " Examination as to the true course of the Florida Stream," that it was owin^ to the Mississippi and the floods from the other rivers falling into the Gulf of Mexico. It was still further argued that the velocity of the Gulf Stream might be determined by the flood from these rivers. But Captain Andrew Livingston, in our former editions, overturned this hypothesis by showing that what is poured into the sea by the river Mississippi is not a three thoutsandth part of 'he volume of tho Gulf Strca u. He thought that it might be accounted for by the motion of the sun in the ecliptic, and itA influence on the Atlantic waters. The effects of temperature is also advanced as the prime mover, by increasing the heat of the water it expands, ind thus becomes higher than the cooler waters beyond it, and as the Gulf of Mexico has tho highest temperature here is the head water of the Gulf Stream on that account. Sir •» ohn Herschel says on this point : — " Let us see what this declivity, formed by unequl temperature, would amount to. The equa- torial surface-water has a tciunoraturo of 84": at ?-,200 feet; the temperature is 39°, the level of which temperature nma to ihe surface in lat. 56 \ Taking the dilatabilitv 318 OBSERVATIONS ON THP CURRENTS. ^^'i ^'■4-; of sea-water to be the same aa fresh, a uniform increase of temperature from 39" to 84° would dilate a column of 7,200 feet hj 10 feet (or 9971 feet more exactly), at which height, tiierefore, above the spheroid of equilibrium ^or above the sea level in 66°), the equatorial surface is actually raised by this dilatation. An arc of 56° on the earth's sur&ce ia 3360 geograpical miles, so that (were the water to run direct north) we have a slope of l-28th of an inch per mile for the water so raised to run down. As the accelerating form, corresponding to such a slope (of 1-lOth of a second, 0*1" of arc) is less than the two-millionth part of gravity, we may dismiss this, as a cause capable of creating only a very triflmg surface drirt, even were it the proper direc- tion to form, by concentration, a current from east to west ; which it would not be, bttt the very reverse." Evaporation has been assumed as another cause, but it can be shown that the lines of maximum evaporation are near the tropics, that is near to the point where the Oulf Stream removes and flows away from, instead of running towards, if this be taken as a sole cause. But the line of greatest precipitation is near the equator, and therefore the surface-water of the ocean is lighter, or of less specific gravity than under the evaporating tropical influences to wnich line this source of instability will cause the waters to flow directlv towards, throughout the whole circuit, and not in the form of partial stream. Besides this, it may be shown by the few experiments hitherto re- corded, that the density of sea-water, at some fathoms below the surfieuse, is ^ery nearly the same all over the ocean, so that suiface experiments afford but imper- fect data upon which little or nothing can be grounded in our present state of knowledge. (211.) There have been so many objections raised to the plain fact that the trade and anti-trade winds will accoimt for many or most of the phenomena of oceanic circulation, that it would be far too dietursive for a practical work to enter into such a field speculation. As has been stated before (2.) 177, the 'winds and water of the Atlantic seem to follow much the same law, as far as their different natures will alluw, that is, they circulate more or less around a central axis or area — the calms of Cancer in the one case, and the Sargasso Sea in the other. All Airther theory must be sought for in those works which deal with speculative science. Captain Maury has adduced arguments against the theory of assuming the trade winds as the prime cause of the Gulf Stream, in opposition to the line of reasoning followed by Sir John Hcrschel. He has drawn up several tables to show that the S.E. Trades have a greatly preponderating force over the N.E. Trades in the Atlantic, but throughout he proceeds on the assumption that the equator is the division between the two systems. This basis, which he elsewhere disproves, will very inadequately explain the relative force and dm-ation of the two trade winds, as is shown in (23.), on page 184. In fact from arguing in this way, he endeavours to prove, that from the much greater force, (nearly twice) of the southern trades, from their much greater constancy, and still farther, that ft'om the g^reater preponderance of westerly winds within the tropica, on the north side of the equator, that the North-East Trade Wind scarcely blows at all in the North Atlantic. A position which is amply disproved by his pilot charts, and by the experience of all sailors. It need scarcely be argued against that the S.E. trades have quadruple the force, and nearly double the duration of the N.E. trades, making them eiyht times as important. But besides this, the wind and current charts demonstrate that the S.E. trades, and their consequent drift, are almost always felt throughout nearly the whole year, to the north of the equator, and in fact send a large proportion of the water into the Caribbean Sea (11.), page 180. The trade winds may therefore be held to be a great cause of the Oulf Stream. (212.) The Gulf Stream has had from very early times a very bad reputation among ship-masters for its dangerous character, and the hundi'cds of \vi'ccks and millions of property which have bestrewed its margin have given good occasion for such a cha- racter. For not only is it to be dreaded for its stormy character, but also its violent streaTii renders a ship quit« unmanageable during a calm, arid at these times shuuld hazy weather occur, and the sameness of the sliorcs mislead the stranger, ho is open THE GULF STREAM. M9 to many difficulties and dans^ers. But the excellent system of Wconage alon^ the Florida Reefs, as presently described, and the important lights which direct by ni^ht, have very much reduced its bad chncater, and diminished the employment of Smt enterprising race, the wreckers of Key West and the Florida Keys. StiU the high rates of insurance for ships which navigate it, and which are yet maintained, although not so entirely as formerly, show that the reputation was not quite gproundless. (213.) CharacteHstics. — ^The indications of the stream are the appearance and the temperature of the water. The stream, in its lower latitudes and usual course, in fair water, where it flows uninterrupted, may be known by ita smooth and clear blue surface; for, without the line formed by a ripple on its edge, the water in some places appears like boiling water of a olue colour ; and, in other places, it foams like the waters of a cataract, even in dead calms, and in places which are fathomless. in greater quantity and larger clusters than within it. It has been said that the water within the stream does not sparkle in the night. We are assured by Captain Livingston that, thoueh this is a common, it is a misconceived, idea. " I have frequently seen it sparkle much ; even last night it sparkled considerably, when we were in about 25° N., and 80° or 79° 40 W. ; and off Cape Roman, Cape Fear, Cape Hatteras, and the entrance of the Deleware, I have seen the water sparkle pretty much, though I think not equal to what it does in many other parts of the ocean.' — In the Stream, 10th of September, 1818. A. L. " It has been mentioned by Dr. Franklin, that the water of the Gulf Stream does not sparkle in the nijht. This, so far as my observations go, is incorrect : I saw little or no difference between that and the other water on the coast; but, if there waf< any, that of the Gulf Ftream was the most sparkling and luminous. It may, however", be observed, that the same water is very different, at different times, in this respect. "■ The same ingenious writer and philosopher likewise observes, that the gulf-weed is a sign of being in the stream. This is in part true, but by no means to be considered as a general rule, because the water on the borders of the stream is constantly mixing with the adjoining water, and leaving some of the weed behind, which consequently falls into the eidy currents, and is carried off many leagues." (214 ) Extent. — The Gulf Stream commences its great career between the Tortugas Bank and the coast of Cuba, therefore the line joining the Dry Tortugas and Havana may be taken as ita stia-ting point. It is here 96 miles wide. At the channel between the' Kay Sal Bank and Somorero Kay it is only 48 miles wide; off Cape Florida, its narrowest (and shallowest) part, it is 46 miles. Between the edge of soundings off Jupiter Inlet and the MataniUa Reefs it is ». miles. This part of the Gulf Stream, which confines it, before it shoots off uncontrolled into the Atlantic is 330 miles long. Pursuing its way northward, its warmest waters and strongest current keeps near to the edge of the bank of soundings which fronts the coasts of Georgia and tue Caro- Unas, following the general curve very strictly, and in its mitin strength keeping 60 miles off Cape Hatteras. This portion of its course from the channel within the Matanilla is about 690 miles further. To the northward of this it still follows the edge of the banks of soundings, and being diverted more to the east by the obstacles lying off it, gradually winds more or, ho is open Journal of Commissioner Andrew Ellicott, Philadelphia, 1803. S20 OBSERVATIONS ON THE CURRENTS. eastward towards the parallel of 40% and skirting the southern edse of the Grand Banks of Newfoundland, it proceeds with diminished velocity and temperature to about the meridian of 40° West, when its further drift; to the westward cannot be dis- tinguished from that to the north and south of it. T^is Airther course may be taken «t about 1,600 miles. The total distance we have thaa gone over will be about 2,500 lailes, throughout the whole of which its characteristics may be distinctly traced, although its lateral boundaries are not so easily defined. It has been usual to extend its independent existence some 1,200 or 1,500 miles further to the shores of Western Europe, as before stated, but when its volume in the outset, or in its narrowest part, is considered, it will be no great sacrifice of previously formed opinions to curtail it of its more extended features. (215.) Throughout its latter course its left-hand margin carries the greatest streng^. In the Gulf of Florida its southern side is the most poweiful. Nor^- ward of the gulf its eastern and south-eastern side is difficult to define, as it is found that the Gull Stream may be said to consist of several longit^dinal bands of water, as presently described. To the southward of British North America its force gradually disappears till it is lunt in the central still water of the Sargasso Sea. The diagram of the currents which elucidates this section will give a clearer idea of ite relation to the great circulatory system, than any long description can do. - f 216.) Depth. — ^Deep-sea sounding has of late years been conducted with such pre- cision and certainty that any doubto which were rormerly held on this topic ought to be abandoned. It is true that the labour and appliances can only be at the command of Government vessels in their extended use ; but the United States' Government officers have done well to maintain their national honour in their endeavours to eluci- date their famous current. We are now made intimate with the former hidden mysteries of the commencement of the Gulf Stream, through the observations conducted by the United States' Coast Survey between 1866 and 1859. In the first named year, Lieutenant-Commander Craven obtained soundings and temperatures along the bottom of the stream in its narrowest part, 45 miles wide, between Cape Florida and the Bernini Isles, which are so remarkable as to overturn all preconceived notions. The next sestion is from the Carysfort Reef Lighthouse to the Bahama Bank, about 50 miles southward of the former, and was examined by Lieutenant-Commander Craven in May, 1859. The next, by the same officer, and in April of the same year, is between Sombrero Kay on the Florida Reefs to the West point of the Salt Kay Bank, and thence to the coast of Cuba, near Cayo Piedras; and the fourth is at the point where the Gulf Stream, as a stream, may be said to commence, between the Dry Tortugas and the, Havana. This was examined by Commander Sands in 1858. In the section between the Tortugas and the Havana, 13 stations were observed, the distance across being about 96 miles. The stations are not quite equally dis- tributed in distance over the whole interval ; but the following figures will give the common results. The stations commence frt>m the northern side : — 33 35 65 130 200 330 620 610 710 770 fathoms. It will be seen tnat the deepest water, about 800 fathoms, is on the Cuban side, being within five miles of Havana. This characteristic is followed all the way along the Cuban side and that of the Great Banks, lliis effect seems to have been pro- duced by the action of the sub-current in wearing a deeper channel upon the concave side of the stream. At the Havana, as above shown, there is an abrupt descent of nearly a mile within five miles of the shore, while, on the side of the Tortugas and Kay West the water is comparatively shallow and the descent gradual. This fact goes to confirm the conclusion that the strong current of the Gulf Stream makes the circuit of the Gulf of Mexico (204.), since if it impinged directly upon the land of Kay West and the Tortugas, we should find its efiects in the wearing of a deeper channel on that side. (217.) The next section is about 120 miles farther East, from the Sombrero Light- THE GULF STREAM. 321 house to the Salt Kay Bank, and 4 stations were obaerred in the distance of forty-five miles. 60 130 600 376 fathoms. j ^f ^ noItSir The last being within 5 miles of the Salt Kay Bank, the descent from the Florida side being more g^dual. (218.) The ne!£t section is between the Carvsfort Lighthouse and the Great Bahama Bank, a line bearing about E. by S. and W. by N. true, distance 63 miles. 6 stations were observed, commencing from the Florida side ; they were as follow : — 120 380 P 600 P 470 P 370 P 213 fathoms. "*•'•' The steepest descent is that on the eastern side of the stream as before noticed. (219.) The next is the most important because the most remarkable — that across the narrows of Cape Florida, a distance of 45 miles. It was taken nearly East and West true, and at equal distances 6 miles apart. The depths were as ftilow : — 72 170 170 260 300 315 326 300 100 fathoms. n 320 370 '^^• (220.) The shattoweat and narrowest part of the stream is therefore here. From hence westward there is a rapid descent of the bottom from 360 to 800 fiithoms, or 2,700 feet, in a distance of 200 miles ; and the temperature siuVs from 80° on the sur- face to 40' at the bottom. At this last section, also, instead of ^^e even curve which the bottom seems to have as in the southern sections, it is here somewhat irregular, and hence northward there are some curious variations of temperature discovered in crossing the axis of the stream which are not found to the south-westward, as will be presently explained. The fact of the shoalest part of the bed of the Gulf Stream being on the Florida side will account for the existence, on that side almout exclusively, of a counter or westward current, which will be more fully dilated on hereafter. (221.) The same process of deep-sea soimding and gaining the temperature has been carried on at various points to the northward on lines perpendicular to the axis of the stream, extending from the shore to beyond its outer hmits. It is difficult to explain the nature of these soundings and their results without the accompanying diagrams ; but they are, of coursv->, of more utility to the physical geographer than to the sailor. What follows on thlK head is mainly derived from the Ileports of tiie United States' Coast Survey. The general plan of exploration of the Gulf Stream, laid down in 1846, was to observe the phenomena on sections perpendicular to its axis from well-determined points on the coast. In pursuance of this design, sections were run from near Mon- tauk Point, Sandy Hook, Cape Henlopen, Cape Henry, and Cape Hatteras, previous to 1848. Lieut. Comg. Craven was directed m 1853, in returning from the Florida Reef, to run four sections across the stream from near Cape Canaveral, St. Augustine, St, Simons, and Charleston ; and Lieut. Comg. Maffit, after closing his work at Georgetown, South Carolina, tonm three sections respectively from Charleston, Cape Fear, and Cape Hatteras. On the Charleston section, bottom was carried from ten fathoms, thirty-eight nautical miles south-east from Charleston Light, to one hundred fathoms, sixty-five miles south-east from the light. The bottom was not reached at five hundred fathoms, nor in 600 fathoms in the stream. At 97 miles from Charleston Light, after crossing the wannest water of the Gulf Stream, bottom was struck in three hundred fathoms in the main strength of the current, and was kept at variable depths from five hundred to three hundred and seventy fathoms to two nundred and scicu miles fivm the coast, or eighty miles beyond the outer limit of the stream. The bottom was brought up in every case, and has been presei-ved, showing some ^'^ry interesting results. After crossing the Gulf Stream on the Canaveral section, Lieut. Comg. Craven gtniRk aniinflin''" at f"ur hundred fathoms at sixty-nine miles ftv»m ths oruse* if . V#UA & A 2 s 322 OBSERVATIONS ON THE CURRENTS. appears thus that the ezigtence of soundings of from three hundred to four hundred fatnoms, after crossing the Gulf Stream at these two points of our coast, was dis- covered independently by the two officers nearly at the same time. In the subsequent sections run by the Cormn, soundings were struck one hundi-ed and twenty-five miles off St. Simons in five himdred fathoms, and off Charleston in four hundred and eighty fathoms. The form of the bottom on the Charleston and Canaveral sections shoals gradually from the shore to fifty-three and thirty-six miles respectivelv, then suddenly falls off to below the depth of six hundred fathoms. On the Charleston section, ninetv-six miles from the coast, is a range of hills steep on the land side, and having a height of eighteen hundred feet and a base of about eleven miles on the seaward side ; a second range one hundred and thirty-six miles from the coast, fifteen hundred feet high and twenty-eight miles base towards the shore, and six hundred feet high, with a base of about seventeen miles, on the outer side. Beyond this is a more gradual rise. On the Canaveral section the inner range b sixty-eight miles from the coast. In factj on the Canaveral section, aft«r sounding at the depth of one thousand and sixty fathoms, the steamer drifting about a mile and a quarter, line showed bottom at four hun- dred and sLcty fathoms. Both are stated to have been good up and dovm casts. These first observations, while they are merely a foundation to build upon,_ are un- doubtedly in the highest degree, interesting and important in their connexion with the phenomena of the Gulf Stream. On the sections from Cape Fear and Cape Hatteras, after leaving the shoals near the shore, the depths increase very rapidly. Lieut. Comg. Craven noticed ripples in connexion with the irregularities of the bottom on the Charleston section. Similar lipples were observed on the Sandy-hook section and on the Montauk section in 1845, and were compared to the " rips " on the Nantucket shoals. These are, however, probably a secondary effect of the irregu- larities by the changes of current produced. ^ ii i . (222.) As far, then, as Cape Hatteras the bed of the Gulf Stream has been found not to exceed 600 fathoms in depth, and is in many parts very irrep^ular. We know but little as yet to the northward of this ; but infer that the ocean is here very deep, as at 100 miles N.E. of Cape Hatteras Lieutenant Lee, U.S.N., in the Dolphin, foimd it to be 1,460 fathoms ; and at 225 miles south of Nantucket, Lieutenant Berryman, in the same vessel, found the depth to be 2,920 fathoms. South of Sable Island, in lat. 40° i N., 2,750 fathoms were found. South of the Grand Bank, from 1,700 to to 2,710 and 3,130 fathoms were found by the Dolphin, These are depths to which the Gulf Stream can have no influence, as it will be shown that even in its narrowest part it does not reach to the bottom. Although thus deprived of a large portion of the magnitude with which it was formerly believed to be invested, it is not the less a wonaerful stream, as it is able so expanded and thinned out to main- tain its course and character unimpaired over the counter-currents of a totally differ- ent origin and nature which flow beneath it. (223.) Breadth- — As has been stated before, it is difficult to define the exact boundaries of the Gulf Stream, which is, in fact, but one out of a series of several. But whilst the more minute examination which has been made has added something to our knowledge of its features, it has not hitherto been sufficiently extensive to fix its limits, either by an average, or, if it is more exactly defined, to give us the posi- tion of its margin in different seasons. However, as numerous observations have been given on its drift, we may give a rude approximation to its extent from the nitions where the drift has been found to be appreciable. In the narrowest part it bout 40 miles broad — a breadth it maintains to abreast of Cape Canaveral. Off Charleston, it is about 70 miles ; off Cape Look-out, 100 vailea ; off Cape Hatteras, 120 miles ; while off Nantucket, it is probably expanded to 300 miles, so that it has widened to more than seven times the extent it commenced with. This fact ought to direct attention to its physical condition, more particularly as its warm waters could not be, arguing from this, more than 10 to 20 fathoms deep, if, as is shown, it does not extend, as warm water, to one-half the depth of the narrows of Capo Florida, or r hundred , was dia- ubsequent -five miles md eighty gradually y falls off ninety-six i heigbt of ; a second t high and 1 a base of . rise. On In fact> on y fathoms, t four hun- own casts, n, are un- »xion -with ihoals near ties of the >andy-hook " rips " on the irregu- becn found We know very deep, phin, found Berrymon, i Island, in m 1,700 to 8 to which ven in its of a large rested, it is lit to main- tally differ- the exact of several. something isive to fix 18 the posi- itions nave it from the west part it iveral. Off i Hatteras, that it has ict ought to (waters could iwn, it does Florida, or THE GULF STREAM. 8M 150 fothoms. Some explanation of this anomaly may be found in the tact of the N. W. current along the North side of the Bahamas as shown on page 299 ; and there is little doubt but that this drift is also the parent of some of those warm belts which have been encountered outside the main stream. ^ (224.) Velocity. — Our knowledge of the velocity of the Gulf Stream is not suffi- ciently extensive to pronounce absomtely at what rate it flows as a mean rate. It is very irregular in all parts, and there has been no systematic collection of observations recorded on the subject. The results of a large number are given in our Chart of the North Atlantic ; but, as will be seen from the following summary, there are more variations than can he reconcileable with the change of the seasons. Between the Tortugas and Florida, it has been found to run at the following rates : — January, 40 to 60 miles per day ; March, 64 miles ; April, 36 miles ; May, A miles ; June, 24 (?) miles; July, 26 (P) miles; August, 65 miles; September, 28 miles; October, 48 miles ; November, 30 miles ; December, 31 miles. In the narrows off Cape Florida — January, 54 miles; March, 112 miles; June, 60 miles ; July, 96 miles ; August, 78 miles ; October, 42 (P) miles ; NovenAer, 76 miles. Farther north these rates are diminished, as we find tlwt in the parallel of 30* N. the mean rates are — For January, 58 miles ; April, 33 mUes ; May, 97 miles ; Sep- tember, 84 miles ; October, 50 miles. Off the Chesapeake, the mean daily rate is 45*5 miles ; off Nantucket, 55 miles ; South of Sable island, 36 miles ; South of Newfoundland, 28 or ^J: . im is consideral^l^ weaker ; and it fluctuates in all seasons according to circumst( nces . The strength of its western and northern borders, in its entire and vast extent, is much greater than those on the East and South, which have invariably a tendency to spread over the ocean in whirls or eddies, and which are, therefore, comparatively weak. The winds are found to affect the position of the surface considerably. Between Cuba and Florida northerly winds press it southward toward the shore of the former j southerly winds have a contrary effect. When turned to the North, easterly winds press it to the Florida side, and westerly winds nearer to the Bahamas. Southerly winds cause it to spread, and so may those from the North. In the Strait of Florida, within the Bahamas, when a northerly g^le, increased to a storm, opposes the stream in its course, this adverse power causes it to fill all the channeLs and openings amongst the Martyr Isles and Reefs, and to overflow all the low coast. Shipping have even been carried over the low kays, and left dry on shore. In the month of September, 1769, theie hapr:;r>f.t an inundation, which covered th^ tops of the highest trees on the Cayo Largo, u'j., and during which the Ledbury snow, John Lorain, master, was carried over the reef by the N.W. current of the stream, caused by a gale from the N.E. The vessel bilged in shallow water, but an anchor was thrown out, and the next day tho vessel was found to have grounded on Elliot's Kay, with its anchor among the trees. The water is supposed at times to have risen to the height of 33 feet ; and to have been running against the fury of the of the winds at the rate of 7 miles an hour. During these times the Strait of Florida exhibits a scene beyond description. Besides the effect which different winds have upon the stream, it is subject to another power that also directs it toward or frx)m the coast ; and that is, the moon, which, according to her position, has different effects upon it, not, however, in equal power with those of tbe wind ; but the disposition of the stream is increased to its extreme, if the effect of both the wind and the moon are combined ; for, at this time, the ocean rising highest, this regulates tho flood and ebb, and divides them in propor- tionate times ; consequently it £rects and increases them, with an easterly moon and 324 OBSERVATIONS ON THE CURRENTS. wind to the West, and with a westerly moon and wind to the East ; bo that the West and East shores are at times deprived of, and at other times overflowed by, tides, occa- sioned by these vicissitudes. The boisterous East, N.E., and North winds which affect the Gulf Stream, gene- rally begin in September, and continue until March ; when, if the moon happens ,^ast at the tune to be on the full or change, they commonly end with a hurricane. (2;?6.) Lieut. J. C. Walsh, of the U.S.S. Taney, in 1849-60, made several irlerft- ing experiments on the temperature and ertent of the Oulf Stream, the first in October, 1849. On the 31st of that month he first encountered the Gulf Stream, in lat. 37° 22' N., long. 71° 26' W., the temperature of the water suddenly rising from 66° to 76\and 77", Uie air being at 53° and 64° ; by making a S.S.E. course good, they got out of it, judging from the water getting back to 70°, in lat. 36° 16' N., long. 70° 67' W., the bretwth being 71 miles ; the velocity being about 3*6 knots per hour. Re-crossing the stream, on his return. May 30th, 1860, he entered it in lat. 36° 30' N., long. 72° 35' W. ; the temperature at eight a.m. being 71*8° ; at 60 fathoms, 71-8°; at 100 fathoms, 67°; the air, 70°. At noon, the surface was 78'6°; at .60 fathoms, 77-6 ; at 100 fathoms, 72-6° ; tHe air 76°. Its velocity was 2-6 knots per hour, setting N. 77° E. He left in lat. 36° 42' N., long. 72° 10', bearing from the pomt of entrance N. 16° E. 78 miles, which, therefore, appears to be the breadth at this time. When on soundings next day, June Ist, in mt. 39° N., long. 70° 30' W., the wat«r showed as low as 61° at the surface, and maintained an average temperature of 63° until he reached New York. This was a difference of 28° from the adjoining Gulf Stream. Shoals of porpoises and black fish were seen in the hot waters of the stream ; but little gulf weed m it, but much at its outer edges. (227.) Captain Livingston has said : — " The calculations of the velocity of the Gulf Stream are not to be depended on. I have found it setting at the rate of 6 knots, and even upwards. Thiswas on the 16th and 17th of August, 1817. On the 19th and 20th of February, 1819, it seemed to be almost imperceptible. In September, 1819, it set at much about the rate described in the charts. One remarkable instance of iU diverging from the usually supposed velocity is given in a communication of Captain Giles, of the barque Cfwrlea, who found it to run 5 and 6| knots, in January, 1843. " The first day I began to make any material progress was with the Tortugas bearing about S.E. ; the foUowing day I had a cur- rent of 63 miles S.E. by S. ; the next oay, 60 miles S.S.E. ^ E. I was then in lat. 24° 10', long. 83° 0' W. The weather would not permit our sighting the Tortugas, though we passed them very closely. The next iax we made, by very good observa- tions, 76 mues of due easterly current, which, with the ship's work, placeu her in lat. 24° 12', and long. 81° 33''W. The succeeding day, towards dark, oie wind being strong from E.S.E., and considering myself in the vicinity of the indraught of the Great Inlet, I put the ship's head to the southward, under cioae-ree/ed topsails, and nothing more set, and reached her to till daylight, that being twelve hours good ; towar£ noon it fell calm. 1 then found that we had been set nearly in the direction that the elbow of the land trends, one hundred and ten miles, we being at noon in lat. 26° 16' N., long. 79° 46' W. The following day we had light, variable airs and calms, heavy rain, much thunder and lightning, and very thick weather (as it had been the day prjviouslv). We picked ourselvs up at noon, lat. 27° 20' N. and long. 79° 30' W., having haa the current N. by E. one hundred and twenty miles. I in- tended to pass through the Providence N.W. channel, but the current sweeps us past the mouth of it in the light airs which we hod on the lost two days of our passage." (228.) Captain (now General) Sabine, F.R.S., soys : — '• There can be Uttle hesita- tion in attributing the uniisual extension of the stream in particular years to its greater initial velocity. It has been computed by Migor Rennell. from the known velocity of the stream, at different points of its course, that in the summer monthn, when its rapidity is greatest, the water requires about eleven weeks to run from the outlet 01 tne iuexicuu oeu vu uitj azuivb, uc-iug uuuut tj,ynn> gL-ugi-upiuviu niufd. " July and August ar« generally the months of the greatest initial velocity of the THE GULF STREAM. 325 the West destocca- im, gene- »penB,^ust I ir/i«rt'>t- i first in stream, in }ing from rse good, (6° 16' N., biota per t. 35» 30' fathoms, 5"; at .60 knots ^r I the pomt th at this )' W., the erature of adjoining ers of the i, . .' , ' "' »f the Gulf knota, and I 19th and er, 1819, it velocity is 9und it to y material lad a cur- len in lat. Tortugas, d observa- >eu her in nnd being ^ht of the )sail8, and >urs good{ e direction it noon in le airs and (as it had and long. ilea. I in- }ps us past passage." ttle hesita- ears to its the knovm er months, [n from the \ stream, and the period when the levels of the Caribbean and Mexican Seas are most deraltiged. <'--^>;v:> ,s':r '';.':•*■■ • " The initial velocity in November, 1822, was 70 miles in the twenty-four hours. The temperature 80° 8 to 80°-6. After passing Cape Hatteras, 77 miles. " In the summer months the stream issues from the outlet with a velocity nearly one-third greater than at the period of the Pheasanfa voyage; or the latter part of November, 1822. " On the 5th of December, 1822, the Pheasant, bound to New York, quitted the northern boundary of the stream in lat. 36|*, long. 72|°. In the stream, in lat. 36° 14', long. 72° 26', the temperature of the surface water was 74°, aad of the air, 65°. Between ten a.m. and noon the temperature had fallen from 74" to 62-4°, being a difference of 11*6. The surface water on which the ship entered was in motion to the westward, at the average rate of 16 miles in the following twenty-four hoiu«, and generally to the West and S.W. between the northern side of the stream tod the J^ftpks on the coast of Maryland. This motion roay be more properly characterified '■''' as a drift current, occasioned by the prevalence and strength of recent northerly gales, than as a counfor-ourrent. In approaching the bank (or soundings), the sm'face water at eight a.m. and at noon, on the 7th of December, was 59-5" ; at thice p.m. it had fallen to •54-2° ; on which, upon sounding, bottom was found in 33 fathoms ; on the following morning, in 30 fathoms, the surface was 63*6°, and at eight a.m. on the 19th, in 12 fathoms, but still with no iand in sight (being 20 miles ofiP the coast), 41 ■d'". In the afternoon of tho same day, when about 2 miles d'stant from Sandy Hook (New York Harbour), the water had finally lowered to 46°. Thus, in a space of the ocean scarcely exceeding 200 miles in direct distan':e, the he&t ox tlie sunaoe progressively diminished from 74° to 46°."* Remarks on the Stream, by Captain W. J. JJfonteaiA.— Between lat. 25° 40' and 28° 20', Captain Monteath found tne current in the strait bad set 80 miles in the twenty-four hours of June 27, 1820. On the southern border of the itream (north- ward of the parallel of Cape Hatteras), 6th July, 1820, lat. 35° 20' to 36° 30', long. 72° 30' to 71° 3', Captain Monteath found the cuirent setting N. 45° E. 76 miles in the twenty-four hours. Next day, July 7, to lat. 37° 40', long. 69°, he found it N. 53° E. 86 miles in twenty -four hours. On the following day, July 8, to lat 38° 38', long. 6*7°, it ran N. 58° E. 30 miles. July 9, to lat. 39° 10', long. H6° 10', westwaid only 10 miles. The observations were continued each day, by chronometer, which agreed within a few miles. In the stream, on the 21st ot March, 1824, lat. at noon, 29° 4', long. 79° 22' Captain Hamlin found the stream had set North 83 miles ; on the next day, lat. at noon, 31° 8', long. 79°, N.N.W. 63 miles. Remarks on the Stream, &c., by Captain J. Steele Park. — We have given on a preceding page (314.) Captain Park's description of the north-westerly inset into the Mexican Sea, and his notice of tho outset from the same. After rounding Cape An- tonio, the land of Cuba was not seen. At this time (the latter days of May, 1824) the stream along the Florida side, and even in the strait, was by no means so strong as it is generally found. In the narrowest part, where, of course, we have a right to ex- pect the greatest velocity, it was running at the rate of only '2| miles an hour. This was correctly ascertained by meridian altitudes of sun and moon, and an excellent chronometer. • " When we cleared the gulf," Captain Park adds, *• I was anxious to keep in the influence of tho stream, and pass near tho toil of the Bank of Newfoundland, but it came on to blow hard from the northward, in lat. 34° 35', and long. 72° 20' (E. by S. from Cape Hatteras). This, of course, drove us away to the eastward, out of the favouiite track, and we pansed about 300 miles to the northward of the Bermudas. During this gale for several days a current was found to proceed from the eastward to :ity of the • Remarks made in H.M.S. PhMumt, 1822. OBSERVATIONS ON THE CURRENTS. the W.S.W. ; but in lat. 38% and long, about 59% the ship was in the Gulf Stream, setting finely to the N.E. '< On June 33rd, at noon, Uit. 37" 51', long. 61° 54' ; June 24th, lat. 39" 56', long. 57° 26' (by altitudes and chronometer). Here the ship really made 4° 28' of easting in the twenty-four hours' run, and the log gave only 8° 16'. In the same time much northing was made. The true difference of latitude was 125 minutes, but the log gave a1x>ut 80 only. The vessel had been running all the time £. by N. by compass, and went through the water 173 miles. Allowing half a ^int of variation, gives the true course N.E. by E. | E. Subsequently, on making Scilly, there was not an error in the watch of a single mile, (229.) Temperature. — The high temperature of the Oulf Stream is one of its chief characteristics; and has attracted from very early times almost as much attention as its velocity. A work was composed on this subject, entitled " Thermometrical Navigation," written by Colonel Jonathan Williams, and published at Philadelphki, 1799, firom which the following extracts are given. Commodore Tnueton says : — " In the stream the water is much warmer than the air ; indeed, I have known it 10° warmer; but as soon as you g^et within the stream (that is, between it and the coast), the water becomes colder than the air ; and the more as you get on soundings, and approach the shore. If mariners, who have not the oppor- tunity of determining their longitude by celestial observations, will only carry with them a good thermometer, and try the temperature of the water, and compare it with that of the air every two hours, they may always know when they come into, or go out of, the Gulf Stream. Indeed, I have always made a practice, wnen at sea, of com- paring the temperature of the air and water daily, and often very frequently, during the d^y, throughout the voyage : whereby I immediately discovered anything of a current that way going, and anerward found its strengtn and directions by observa- tions for the latitude and longitude. It is of the utmost consequence, in making a passage to and firom Europe, to be acquainted with this Gulf Stream ; as, by keeping in it, when bound eastward, you shorten your voyage ; and by avoiding it, when returning to the. westward, you facilitate it inconceivably : so much so, mat I have fi«quently, when bound from Europe to America, spoke European ships, unacquainted with the strength and extent of it, off the Banks of Newfoundland, and been in port a very considerable time before them, by keeping o-it of the stream ; whereas they lengthened their passage by keeping in it. The gincral course of the Gulf Stream being marked on the chart, I would advise those who make the northern passage froni Europe never to como nearer the inner line it, by choice, than 10 or 15 leagues ; and then the probability will be that their jpassage will bo assisted by the help of a counter-current, which often runs within it. ui coining off a voyage firom the south- ward, be sure to steer N.W. when approaching the stream, if the wind will permit you ; and continue that course until you are within it, which may be easily Known DT the temperature of the water, as before mentioned. I have always considered it 01 the utmost consequence, when bound in, to cross the stream as speedily oh possible ; lest I should be visited by calms or adverse winds, and by those iiioiins driven for out of my way, which would prolong the voyage considerably, especially in the winter season." By the joumui of Captain W. Billings, of Philadelphia, it appears that, in June, 1791, Uie water on the coast of America was at the tcmi>oraturo of 61°, an'U in the Gulf Stream at 77. By those of Mr. Williams, it appcai-s that, in November, 1789, the water on the coast was 47°, and in the Gulf Stream at 70°, viz. : — 1791, June, Coast 61° Stream 77 Stream warmer 16 1789, Nov. Coast Stream 47° 70 23 Difference between ( Coast 14° June and Nov. ( Stream 7 The difference of heat is, therefore, gh>ater in winter than in summer. In thu Anwrica of 500 tons, Captain flcth, for Hiehmond, Virginia, 2nd May, 1817. ' After a sorien of bufHing winds and bulHtorous weather, we nnd ourselves on the THE GULF STREAM. 327 Stream, J6', long, r eastins me much ; the log compaas, gives the tan' error f its chief attention HETRICAL ladelphia, a the air; earn (that le more as he oppor- arry with re it with nto, or go a, of com- ly, during tiing of a Y ol}serva- makin^ a y keeping f it, when at I have cquainted n in port Teas they Lf Stream tsagefrofn meat and help of a the south- ill permit ly known isidered it possible ; driven far the winter in June, nil in the lK>r, 1789, fcast 14' ream 7 lay, 1817. CB on the western, or in, side of the Gulf Stream, and, of course, not far from oar destination. Yesterday the temperature of the air was 66°, and of the water 71°. To-day, the air remams at 65° but the water has fallen to 50°. We have, therefore, crossed this warm ocean river, which flows from the Gulf of Mexico." — " Notes" of Maurice Birhheck. " On my voyi^e from Philadelphia to Kingston, Jamaica, on board of the Schqoner Young Dasher, October, 1817, 1 particularly attended to the thermometer. Close off the mouth of the Delaware, in about 16 fathoms, it stood at 60° ; on the inner edge of the Golf Stream, it rose pretty rapidly, to 66°, and, in the course of an hour, to 76° ; next morning, 78°, which heat continued till we were to the southward of Bermuda ; whence it gpradually increased, until between Cuba, Hayti, and Jamaica, it was 82°, which appears to me to be the mean temperature of the sea water about Jamaica."— From memory, 26th August, 1818. Andrew Livingston. By the advantage of knowing how near to the coast a ship may venture, and how to disting^uish the Gulf Stream from the water between it and the coast, we can be sure of a favourable current either way, and a small vessel might make a short voyage from Halifax to Georgia, which is thought by some a longer one than to Europe. Suppose you had the wind ahead all the way; take your departure and stand for uie stream ; so soon as you find the water increase in heat, about half as much as you know it would when in the stieam, heave about, and stand for the coast ; you vrill infallibly discover the edge of the soundings by the cooling of the water ; then stand off again, and so on to the end of the voyage; when it is almost certain that the distance would be run in a shorter time thau if there were no stream ; for you would have a favourable inside current. On the return passage, take your departure, and run off till you get into the warmest water, which will be middle of the stream, and taJce the advantage of its current. The following fact may serve to illustrate the propriety of these directions. In June, 1798, the mail packet for Charlestown had twenty-five days' passage in going, but returned in seven. The captain accounted for this oy having calms, or very light airs, and a northerly current. This was the true cause. He was in the middle of the stream, where there generally are calms or light winds ; the edges, only, which come in contact with colder regions, being tempestuous. After being in the latitude of Cape Hatteras, he found himself in that of Cape Henry (37 leagues to the northward). The vessel, however, arrived at last ; and on the return voyage the captain steered the same course back again, and with the same light airs he performed the voyage in seven days. Had the captain known the use of the thermometer, need he to have been much longer in going than in coming P (230.) From the fact that whin crossing the Gulf Stream from east to West, that the temperature suddenly fell when itH western edge was puHHcd, that is, coincidt ru!y with obtaining soundings, it was argued by Colonel WiltiamH, and long maini.',i;ed that the thermometer would certainly indicate the approach to soundings by a full in the temperatpre of the water in any part of the ocean. " In June, 1791, Captain W. Billings, of Philadelphia, in lat. 39°, long. 66°, abreast of the Banks of Newfoundland, found that the mercury in the thermometer fell 10°. It was near the same place that a similar obervation was made by Dr. Franklin, In November, 1776 ; and another by Mr. Williams, in November, 1789, who from thee and other facts infers that, " By the coincidence of these three jouinalH, at so great a diHtance of time, and without any connexion with each other, this important fact Bccms to be established : — A tuii'iyator may discover his appmnch toward objects of danger, when he is at such a distance as to be able easily to avoid them, by attentively examining the temperature of the sea ; the water ovrr banks and shoals, in these regions, being colder, in general, than that of the deep ocean." Now although this remark holds good as to this portion of the American coast, and in some other porta of the world, under similar influences, yet it is founded on a fallacy, and certainly nas not that universal a])])lieation which former obsei vers endeavoured to olajin for it. This question is now generally well-understood," ond it is only neces- sary thus to refer to it, as a memorial of past times. When it was first promulgated, OBSERVATIONS ON THE CURRENTS. the extension of the Arctic Current to the southward in such a remarkahle manner inside the Gulf Stream was not suspected. And although Mr. "Hedfield's views, given hereafter, are now ftiUy maintained, yet the more extended observations of the United States Coast Survey, have revealed such singular facts, that even now we must confess that our knowledge of the compensating system of the ocean is exceedingly imperfect. (231.) The mean mr/ace temperature of the Gulf Stream, in the early part of its course may be ascertained from the vast and confused mass of figures contained in Captain Maury's Thermal Charts. The temperatures there recorded, however, show lai^ variations between themselves in the same periods. This may arise from two causes — ^the one from the variation known to exist in the stream itself (234.), and which is frequently considerable ; and the other frt)m the imperfection of the ther- mometers used, and this, as many of the observations appear to have been derived from voyages made before standard thermometers were employed, may include a considerable portion of the discrepancies which exist. The following are the result of the calculations for the temperature of the main strength of the current from the narrows of the Little Bahama Bonk to the meridian of Hali&x. To the eastward of t lis, or longitude 60°, the temperature, especially in winter and spring, becomes rapid.y lower aud very irregular, as will be presently- alluded to, and therefore our comparison will now be limited to this section, which comprises a distance of about 1,200 miles, and which is traversed by the stream in about 25 to 35 days. The degrees are Fahrenheit. Winter.— OS the Matanilla Beets, 77°-2; off Charleston, 75°'9; off Cape Fear, 73°-6 ; off Cape Hatteras, 71°-0; off the Capes of Virginia, 7rO; S.E. of New York, "JO'S ; S.E. of Nantucket, 67'"-9 ; south of Halifax, 62*-5. It has thus cooled 14''-7 in its passage. Spring.— In the Florida Channel, 77''-6 ; off Charleston, 76°-5 ; off Cape Fear, 74'*-7 ; off Cape Hatteras, 72''0 ; off the Capes of Virginia, 72'0; S.E. of New York, 70°-5 ; S.E. of Nantucket, 67'''4 ; south of Halifax, GS^-S, In the latter part of its course it is cooler in the spring than its ratio to the earlier part, owing to the higher velocity of the Arctic Current, which flows under and mixes with it. Summer.- In the Strait of Florida, 83°-2 ; off Charleston, 82''-4; off Cape Fear, 8r-2 ; off Cape Hatteras, 79"-8; off the Chesapeake, 79°-8 j S.E. of New York, 79'''2 j S.E. of Nantucket, 80°; south of Nova Scotia, 77'''9. Here the water preserves its heat without much diminution being only S^'S colder than when it leaves the gulf. Autumn— In the Florida Strait 8r-7 5 off Charleston, 8r-6 ; off Cape Fear, 78"" ; off Cape Hatteras, JS'-S ; off the Chesapeake, 75''-5 5 off New York, 73''-0 ; off Nan- tucket, 71°-5 J south of Nova Scotia, 69''-2. (232.) Upon comparing these temperatures, which are carried so many miles un- impaired hy the Gulf Streem with tne inner Arctic Current between the stream and the shores of Virninia, New Jersey, New York, 8:p., a surprising difference will be seen es|>^';ially in the spring months, when the difference is at a mean 30°, and at other seaoons from 15° to 23°. This will be more fully entered into in the next section. (233.) it has been found that the temperature of the stream varies in a greater degree thau could be accounted for by the climates it had passed through, being sometimes warmer to the north, and cooler to the south, of any particular position. This seems to be accounted for by the variability of the source of the stream in the Odlf of Mexico and elsewhere, which it would be very difficult to follow up to aiiv specifiic determination ; but this, practically, is of minor importance to the PMlOT. (234.) The Gulf Stream was fouiid, in the early operations in its investigation in 1845-48, to consist of a series of alternations of cold and warm wnter, a fact whi'-h was very surprising at the time, but the results of the later explorations in in53, entirely confirm the former ones in this respect. In fact, the Gulf Stream is merely THE GULF STREAM. 329 oae of a number of bands of ^ vnn water aeparated by cold water. The observations on the Hattoroa, Cape Fear, and Charleston sections, show a counter-current where the oold streaks are found ; and as these observations and those for temperature are entirely independent of each other, the coincidence in result is very striking. This fact is of too great importance not to be very carefully followed up. It would appear, from genei-al reasoning, that this was not unlikely to be the ease." — TTnited States' Report. . ' On the land side the division between the cool and warm water is very distinct. It is now concluded that this separation into distinct belts is owing to the form of the bottom, as they appear to be strongest north of the section of Cape Canaveral, where the lang? of submarine hills and dales (221) is foimd very much to coinc'de with the position of these cool and warm belts ; and this conclusion is strengthened by the fact, that south of Cape Florida, where the bottom is even, they disappear altogether. (235.) Submarine Temperatures. — It was formerly held that the Gulf Stream flowed on in one majestic curient of wann water from its surface to ito bed. The magnitude of its "flfects and the extent of its area seemed to leave room for no other conclusion. But the first observation of ice-cold water at a small depth in its narrowest and strongest part overturned all these hypotheses, and left a most per- plexing condition in which we are at a loss to know where to look for an explanation.* How this cold water, flowaig directly contrary to the course of the upper strata, should preserve its polar characteristic almost unimpaired to such an enormous dis- tance from its origin, and under such apparently adverse circumstances, cannot be ex- plained with our present views. Agam, by what power, or source of action, are these lower strata made to move in an opposite direction to those superincumbent upon it, and which, it might be supposed, would be acted on by the same laws and move in the same manner ? It is one of the most i-emarkable evidences of that grand compensating system by which the Great Creator has commanded that all the har- momes of the universe shall be maintained — which keeps the atmosphere and ocean in a perpetual condition of interchange, and thus makes them fit for the sustenance of his creatures. "We have alluded to this universal intermingling of the ocean waters before (133). Of the presence of polar water in these tropical regions there can be no doubt. The following extract from the Report of the Superintendent of the U.S. Government Survey will place it beyond question : — " The southern sections present, on a small scale, the same phenomena which we formerly traced over a large expanse in the more northern ones. Examining the Canaveral section, which is the fmthest south, we see the cold wall almost as pin inly as on that from Sandy Hook j the curve, showing the mean results betwee^i. 70 and 100 fathoms, riijes some 17 degrees, from 67^° to 74 J" Fahrenheit, in the distance of 23 nautical miles, Tbe warm water, overlying the cold, is deeper in its overflow to- wards the shore — that is all. After pasHing through th? warmest water, which, in June, 1853, was only 80J^" Fahrenheit at two fathoms >;. d a half, there is a fall of temperature of sevc:^! degrees, followed by a rise. On liie St. Simons section the cold wall is again well shown, and is the first of those distinct bands of minimum temperature dividing four maxima, of which the greatest body of warm water of the Gulf Stream is the second fiom the shore. Near the surface the first and fourth maxima are the highest ; at 15 f>-:< JVr ',-0. in-shore is a cold one. The rise in the mean of the temperatures at 20 urd no C ahoms is 11° Fahrenheit, naiiely, from 64° to 75°. The advantage of not rely- irg i i^vi-face temperatures, or t/hose near the surface, where the distribution is so tavust I'^M regular and marked than below, will be recognised in all these results, and was early provided for in my instructions. " The underlying cold water from the northero region/^ Is 63 plain in ik@ Biixiheva sections OS it was in the n.nre northern. 400 fathoms verticol' / ~«low the vravraest water of the Gulf Stream, on the Cape Henlopen section, in Aui^'Uf t, 1846, th« tn,ipe- rature was 49° Fahrenheit, and in the same position off Cape C,^:^avFr'll,, it. ,i.-!3, 1853, it was 48F The latitude corresponding t: the fi: .i tcnipcrctvie wti;? :■ mi Sr 20', and to the last abouf 28° 20'. laen+, Charles H. Davis, in October, (MS, found a temperature of 40° .it 1,000 fathfivns, in lat, 39» 25 , iad long. 69° 01', and Lieut. George M. Bache 40° r.x 2.160 fBtlnaw, in lat, M" 13', long. 68" 05'. licnt. S. P. Lee, in August, 1847, found 57° belo .y ±e Gulf Stream, at the depth of 3 ,000 fathoms, in lat. 35" 26', long. 7i> 12'; and agair 48" beyond th*. Gulf St'-epra, ft*, the same depth, in lat. SO" 10', and long. 68° 9'. Li- ' r. Ki /iard Bache, m Jidy, 1^8, found a tempci-oture of 42' at 1,00 » fathoms, in. lat. 35« 6', atid long. 74° 7', Wlcw the surface of the (ijjf "iream. • ' "The mot th-itthi; Me limits of the polar current recede iVom th^' shore as the 5epth i:LV--«hse8, is rlearly marked on all the set-rions. Dii-ettly down below the me^imui Mrfnc* < . sn peratrt. p we soon plunge into this cold current, the warmer water recodi'tK- C - .ri tbe shelve and at 400 fathoms reach temperatures, the differences brtwoen wL!< :■ ">.th- iKTth and south are of an order corresponding to the variations of tlio ocean Tah re in dlSerent years and at different seasons. For example, at the d( pth of 400' fathons, on the Sandy Hook section, in 1846, vertically below the crest of the Gvlf Stream the temperature was 51° Fahrenhpif ; on the Henlopen section, at the corresponding point, 61"* ; m the Cape Henry sectioa, 541" ; in 1848, on the Cape Hcury section, 521°; and on the Hattoras section, 02^ ; in 1853, on the Hatteras section, 61"" ; and on the Cape Fear section, 64" j all the foregoing observations being rami?, in July and August of the several years. In Jtmo, 1853, the temperature at the point and depth before noted, on the Charleston tiectio/i, was 65", and near Cape Florid V, 14 miles E.N.E. from the light, was 51", varying fi-om 64"' to 46" in the in- termeckiatc localities. The low temperature of 46" was observed on the Canaveral section. The temperature at 400 fathoms, near Cape Florida, is the same as was observed on the Sandy Hook aoction in July, 1846, viz., 48". " I remarked that these differences came within the annual changes near the sur- face. Not to complicate the examination with surface irregularities, if we compare the maximum temperatures it 12 or 15 fathoms below the surface of the different sections, in the same year, we shall find, as a general rule, an increase of temperature in passinp: southward, as 81", 83% 82", from the Sandy Hook to the Cape Henry sec- tion; in i846, 75|°, 76", 77 i", 79^", from the Charleston secti Cape Canaveral. But in successive years we have for the highect temperature at 12 fathoms, on the Cape Henry section, higher than that of Hatteras ; and the temperaturr in July, 1846, on the axis of the Gulf Stream, higpher at Sandy Hook than in JuTie, 1853, at Canaveral, by a decree and a half, and higher than Charleston by five and a half degrees. It is obvious that here an interesting field of inquiry opens, requiring care- ftif re search."* (236.) The CoW Wall. — The separation between the warm, deep, blue waters of the Oulf Stream and the inner cold counter-current is sot " one end of a ship is sometimes seen in the one, and *: rent." Although it does not follow that this line > ■ Captain Maury says as above, yet a remarkable fea: i United Ste.tes' C.f t Survey so often quoted h' - 1 the two currentr ■; > well marked beneath the .« ivs s, times BO well marked that ti:cr end in the other ci.'' »: arcation is as distinct as M been eliminated by the tnat the separation between and to the greatest depths, as ♦ Fro£saw>r A. D. Bache, Report U. 8. f >; vfty, 1863, pp. 48-9. * See n. 25P probably res at 20 ! not rely- tion is so isolts, and 3 Bivathevn < warraest hi' t'.fape- ,, it; i'iiTB, KCH ? .. iiiV; bw, lrt46, 1° 01', and Licnt. S. h uf 1,000 p.-Q, ftj. the !>ily, ierature at near Cape in the in- Canaveral me as was sar the sur- ire compare le different emperature Henry sec- Canaveral, ms, on the in July, ne, 1853, at and a half iiring carc- aters of the larked that ! other cti'- distinct tis ated by the ion between depths, as THE GULF STREAM. 331 to have obtained for it the title of 'Jie " Cold Wall," being, in fact, an upright divi- sion between them. This peculi* nty has been found to exist almost aloug the whole coast of the United States, whe? e the stream skirts the bank of soundings. Without diagrams the features cannot b' made quite intelligible ; but the main fact, so inte- resting to the physical geogripher, is as above stated — that there appears to be a marked non-affinity between the waters flowing in opposite directions. It was at first supposed fixe cold wall was cut off at Cape Hatteras, but the subse- quent researches have qualified this notion. The cold water has been traced as far as the Tortugas. Off the Sombrero Key the existence of the cold wall was strongly marked at depths varying from 70 to 100 fathoms, while everywhere the warm water overflows the cold wall, and reaches quite to the shore. The shallowness of the stream in the Strait of Florida, connected with the fact that that the bottom falls off rapidly to the north and south, afforded an excellent oppor- tunity for testing the question whether the cold water of the under polar current is forced upwards by the change in depth — as, should this be the case, the cold water would appear in tne shallow part of l^e strait ; and this has actually been foiind to be the case, as the warm surface water of the temperature of 80° ana the cold water of the bottom of the temperature of 49° nearly approach each other. It does not follow by this that the " waters run up hill," as aas been stated. (237.) CpiniTEB CTJBBENTS-— Besidto the great arctic current which flows southward inside the stream to bo described in the next section, there are some other counter currents on each side of the stream which require notice here. The appear in the first part of its course in the Gulf of Florida, where they have been known to flow from the earliest times, as has been alluded to in (200.), page 316. (238.) The Counter Current along the Florida Beefs is marked on all the old surveys of these reefs, and is, during the summer months especially, frequently met with. It may be readily accounted for. On page 320 (216.) it will be seen that tlie main strength of the Oulf Stream, after passing the " Great Whirlpool " • of the Mexican Gulf, runs with the greatest swittness past the coast of Cuba, and that the channel is by much the deepest close to the south side, slopes more gradimlly from the north. On the shallower water, but not within the reefs, this counter current runs, by which a vessel may with ease and knowledge work to westward. It may be taken as an eddy, aided by the trade wind, which may give it an additional impetus. It has been well elucidated by Lieutenant E. B. Hunt, En^jineer, U.S.A., who, having stayed in the neighbourhood for some time, obtained some particulars from the welf intbrmcd residents of these Kays.f (239.) Captain Oeiger, who for some thirty years, has been observing the waters of thu vicinity, most of that time having acted as a pilot off Kay West harbour, and who is, pernaps, better acquainted than any other person with the currents there pre- vailing, gives the following statement of facts : — A strong uorth or north-east wind keeps the Gulf Stream back, and makes a westerly current uear the shore. During June, July, and August, the westerly cur- rent prevails more than the easterly current from 5 to 15 miles from the reef. The direction of the current depends mostly on the wind. The westerly ciUTcnt prevails for from one-third to two-fifths the entire time from year to year for from 2 to 15 miles outside the reef off the west. He has known it 25 to 30 miles off Sand Kay. When the Gulf Stieam is strongest on the Cuba shore, the westerly current is strongrest (^u tha at th «ide ; and when it is weakest along the Cuba shore, the Gulf Str f 'n <<':'■. I loan ikiHtg thr reef. He has found the westerly current as far up as r"' ■ » i-iort, out !:"t frequently, p.;id not brood or strong. This current broadens from : 'aiysfort to the wt.t rard, and continues about constant along its course. The tide;; on the two sides of ^^e rcjf ar« abotit six hours apart on an average, but * 8eo Dr. Lorimer, April 2!, 1769, " Trans. Amer. Phil. Boo., Philadelphia," vol. i., p. '25P t rtilUman'sAmoricaa Journal, March. 1859, vol. xxvii., pp. 207— 214. 332 OBSERVATIONS ON THE CURRENTS. 8ct, on the 'whole, as much one way as the other over the reef. Sometimes there is a narrow easterly current for a mile from the reef, then a westerly cuirent, and then the Gulf Stream. A considerable number of the Gulf traders know of, and make use of, this current in going westwardly. After nortiiers the westerly current may be expected. Sometimes in crossing to Havana no Gulf Stream indications are found, and sometimes a westerly current is found along the north shore of Cuba. Nocwithstanding Captain Geiger's long observation of these currents, he says that lie is quite unable to reduce them to nde, or in any way to know beforehand how the current will be found to set. Captain Richardson, pilot of the United States' Coast Survey steamer Corwen, says : — " The westerly current appears irregularly chiefly in winter, but sometimes duringthe prevalence of the regular trades. It extends from 10 to 15 miles off from Sand J&ay, and runs sometimes 2 miles per hour. It never prevails over the reef proper. It spreads flirther from the reef as it goes west. Off Indian Kay it some- times extendi 7 miles from the edge of the reef; at Bahia Honda, sometimes 10 mUes ; and at Sand Kay, from 10 to 15 miles. Some years (as in the winter of 1866-7) there was very little of this current. The Gulf Stream usually runs stronger on the Cuban side. In one case, in 1852, two vessels bound east passed Tortugas which separated about 100 miles in twenty-four hours, by one captain knowing this current and the channel, while the other kept in the westerly or counter current. The tide below the Quicksands and Tortugas sets flood N.N.E., and ebb S.S.E., differ- ing from the Charts." (240.) But this counter current, also, is felt on the Cuban side sometimes, probably all the way from the Bahamas Old Channel. Of this we have several instances from the communications of Captain Livingston and others ; the most singular of these, however, is that of Captain Loudon,. of the brig Perry, on returning, in the latter part of November, 1827, from Ne^ Orleans to Liverpool. Captain Loudon had made the Iron Hilh in Cuba ; shortly after noon he tacked ship to the northward and west- ward about 8 or 9 miles eft shore ; next day he kept beating to windward, as near to the middle of the strait as he could judge, and, witnout sighting the land on either side, the wind then blowing a fresh gale to the northward ; and he continued beating in the same manner until about eight a.m. of the second day, when, b^ reckoning, he ought to have been near the Salt Kays ; but obtaining a lunar observation, it showed, to his astonishment, his longitude to be to the westward of 83°. Supposing his observation to be erroneous, he took a second set of lunar distances, which gave a similar result. Still, however, doubtful, he stood on, and in a short time afterward Sained soundings on the Tortugas Bank ! The northerly gale had now abated, and e worked his vessel in, on sounding^, to the northward of tLr Dry Tortugas. With a favourable wind he ran through the Tortugas Channel; '^ax as light and bafAing vnnds succeeded, he made for the stream as it became dusk, and with such wind got through the strait in the two following days, having, on his way, found the eurrent very rapid along the Martyra. Captain Loudon justly remarked, that so extraordinary a circumstance, of which he ispositively certain, ougnt to be generally known. " Masters of vessels from Vera Cruz, &c., to Havana, often lengthen their voyage by keeping away too much to the southward after rounding the Diy Tortugas, fearful 01 being carried away to the eastward of Havana by the strength of the Florida Stream T Some have fetched in about the Port of Honda, the Cock's Comb, and one vetsel even as low as Cape Antonio!" — Lieut. John Evans. (241.) Off-set or Easterly Drift from the Gulf Stream, on the North AND N.E. of the Bahamas, &e. — The Gulf Stream about the Bahamas appears to have a drift or tendency to the eastward ; and there is reason to believe that an off- set of the stream, from without the Matcmillo Bank, sets, if not generally, very frequently, to the eastward and S.E. With the usual set of the currents along the eastern range of the Bahama Islands, we arc not accurately at quainted ; but with a N.W. wind we have no doubt that it is in a S.E. direction. Ihe Eutopa, a sJuu f war, returning to Jamaica by this passage from a cruise off H.r,'ana, in '1787, steered Iiere is a md then make use i may be re foiind, says that how the Corwen, ometimes I off from the reef it Bome- stimps 10 ■winter of ) stronger Tortufl wvag current. E., differ- probably nces from of these, .atter part made the and west- as near to on either id beating ioning, he t Fhowed, osing his ;h gave a afterward ated, and 18. With d baffling wind got le eurrent which he ir voyagfe as, fearful e Florida and one E North appears to mt an off- ally, very alon^ the mt with a , a sJ'Jp f }7, steered THE GULF STREAM. 333 East on the parallel of 30° N. with a westerly wind, until the run was suppoeed to have brought her on the meridian of l\irks' Islands, by which it was intended to pass southward ; but an eastc r'y current had swept her along as high as that of the Mona Passage. Captain Manderson, of the Royal Navy, who first noticed this event, ob- serves, « If it were once ascertained that a current was common in that part of the ocean, might it not be favourable for vessels bound from Jamaica to the Caribbee Islands, especially in the summer months, during the prevalence of the sea breezes P" Our respected friend, Captain Livingston says : — " I have no doubt that there is a cuiTent, or rather off-set, from the Gmf Stream to windward, between Bermuda and the Bahamas. In the Brilliant we found ourselves retarded very much in making westing when running for the Hole in the Wall, one day, about 30 miles of 1 -ng^tude, by excellent observations, the truth of which was confirmed by our land-fall. In the JDispatch, we got out of the gulf on the 13th of March, 1819, when we were at noon, by observation, in lat. 28° 0', long., by account, 79° 12' ; on the 20th of March, at noon, we were, by meridian altitude, in lat. 29° 48', and long., by account, 72° 32'. Observations by sun and moon, a good lunar of three sights, iutitudes and distances, and worked tl^e times, gave '71° 18' 30'. " In the schooner Younff Dasher, January, 1818, I spoke an American vessel, out five days from the Chesapeake, in lat. 24° 40 , or thereabout ; my longitude by lunars was then about 69° 60' ; his, by dead-reckoning, was 72° 20'. On the 11th of February, 1819, in lat. about 25° 10' N., we spoke the schooner Heater, Captain Lawrence, out five days from Bermuda, bound to Jamaica ; his long, was 69° Id' ; ours, by observa- tion, 68° 39'. " In the ship Fame, Captain J. W. Monteath, a good lunarian, assured me that he had been earned 3° and upwards to the eastward, between the time of his departure from the American coast and making the Windward Passages ; but this may have been partly occasioned b/ the Gulf Stream, which he may have crossed too obliquely in proceeding from Norfolk." The Fame, above mentioned, was bound from Norfolk, in Virginia, to Kingston, Jamaica, in May, 181S ; and in a run of thirteen days, until in the lat. of 29°, and long. 61°, it was found that the current had "et the vessel 3° 10' East. Captain Livingston adds, that " Captaiu Hall, in the brig Lowland La»f passed to windward of Porto Rico, when he ttiought that he had run thro%;i . ^ Mona Passage. Captain Patterson, of the brig Clyde, as I cm informed, pas, I Jown the Anegada Passage, when he intended to Imre made the Mona. I have heard of two vessels falling to leeward, but both were commanded by men whose names, as seamen, are not entitled to notice. " In addition to the above notices, I have been assured, by an intelligent Spanish navigator, that about thirtv years since, vessels bound from Havana to Europe used generally to cut off 3° of longitude from their reckoning, on account of this set, which he said was considered then as certainly existing. At that time the charts were about a degree wrong, which would reduce the Spaniard's allowance to 2 de- grees, or thereby. " These notices tend to prove that an easterly off-set from the Gulf Stream sets to the northwiird of the Bahamas ; of this I am so firmly convinctv i ,;' in charge of a ship from the Havanna, or even New Orleans, bound to Jai;^uica, I should, if allowed to follow my own plan, run out the Strait of Florida, and attempt making my passage with the aid of this off-set. This is to be understood, in case I should not have westerly winds in the southern parallels $ for such winds are, I am told, mure frequent than formerly \ and I know that they are by no means of rare occurrence on the S.W. of Cuba." Captain Thomas Hamlin, in the brig Recovery, then in the Gulf Stream, was set to the m ;•<' yard 104 miles, in the twenty-four hours of the 20th March, 1820. The shi); . « at noon, 28" 4' N., 79° 50' W. To the north-eastward, on the next dav, witnu M the stream, iu lat. 29° So, long. 77° 25', the current was found to have set only 11 miles Noith, but considerably more to the eastward. On the 16th February, 1811, the ship Mars, under the same commander, wa« at 334 OBSERVATIONS ON THE CURRENTS. the back of the Matemillo Bank, and no northerly current was found i and nearly 2' further eastward, in 28° T N., and 76" 68' W., the cuiTent in twenty-four bcurs nad Bet 3° S. and 14° £. The ship was, therefore, evidently in the off-set fro^n the Gulf Stream. (242.) The last remark is one that would be adduced bv man3- to prove that the surface of the Gulf Stream is roof-shajted, and that any floating body remaining in- active on it has a tender) r-' *o drin to its margins, especially to the eastward and south-eastward. I> i' ; \.'\i.-i ■^ amption will be borne out by more exact observa- tion, it is difficult ifi jn«V s fit there certainly seems to be some ground for the opinion, as itt • if^e> . ;^cially are marked by a larger collection of Gulf weed and other drift matter than are found in the centre. Again, there seems to be a tendoncy for vessels to be doated to the East and S.E. without their knowing it. It has been argued by Captain Maury that this may be owing to the effect of the earth's rotation, which nms the current from under the ship, and as, as he says, the tendency of a rail- way train g^ing north or south, is to run off the rails to the eastward of its route. This has been made the subject of fiiyrw ■ > ling experiments by M. Foucault and others ; but we know so little thut it were futile to aigae on it. (242.) In the northern regions of the stieam, when the cold upon laud is in win);er most intense, which is generally between December and March, heavy and continuLi gal. :i very frequently prevail, which commonly proceed from between the north and we t across the course of the stream, from Cape Hatteras until past George's Bunk, and oend its direction to the eavtward ; being aided at the same time by the dis- obai'gc of the great bays and rivere, increased by the force of the wind blowing down ihum, and the constant supply of stream that passes along the coast of the Carolinas, the whole produces so strong a rarrent to the eastward as to render it impossible for a ship to approach the coast until a change of wind commences. During tb^ prevalence of a southerly or easterly wind, which is not so common here, it has been found that the current is forced close to, and in some partb upon, the edge of souidings ; being thus bent in between the wind and the shoal grounds near the shore, the breadth is greatly diminished, and the velocity .>roportionably t creased. This circumstance has been in particular observed from libout the longitude of Block Island, along ^he edge of the Nantucket Bank, thence beyond George's Bank, and al:*o along the coasts of Georgia and part of South Carolina. In the nrst instance, that the southerly winds forced the current to the edge of soundings, where it then ran from 1^ to 2 knots; and in the latter instance, that the easterly wind forrad the current upon soundings. With West and N.W. winds, the stream would be removed some leagues further off. From what has been said, it, is 'Aeta that the eddies about the edges of the stream must vary according to the circumutanr(>s abo'?e explained. Along these edges, but more particularly Jong tho f-^uter edgi there is generally a current in a mfferent direction, which it celera -d by the \ ad in proportion to its strength, blowing con- trary to the stream, and retarded, or perhaps altogether obstructed, by the wind mow- ing m the direction of the stream, in the latter case the limits of the stream vnllbe eirtended. (243.) Physical ijyooRAPHT of " us Channel of the Gulf Stream. — The peculiar and dangerous character of the shores of the Gulf, rnd tLe necessity which existed for the establishment of some m» i i-' of averting the mischief it annually occa- sioned, led to a minute examinatici of 2 features so geologically and geographically interesting, which has been mad racticnUy useful by the erection of a fine line of beacons and the necessary light" tuy u the Florida Reefs. Professor Agassiz, who investiKited th subject, has shown that the Florida Kays and Reefs are essentially of con i formation in various sta^s of existence. At Kay West, the basis of tliis of this is showti to be a coarse oolitic rock with cross stratifi- cations, and dipping at various angles in different directions. The formation of coral upon this ruck extends not only over the Kays, but also to the main land of Florida, and by a careful process of inquiry and reasoning it may be inferred that a very .i:«p,.r»nf r-vAfv of thiRgs existec at no very remote period ot the world's history. \AA«AV«V1«V \/a«*V'A TF-^ GULF STREAM. B35 We have a peninmila — a narr< dat strip of land, projecting for about fire degrees from the main land, between the tlantic ocean and the Gulf of Mexico, and forming an effective barrier between the waters of the two seas, which otherwise, even by the change - f a few feet in the relative level of the intervening peninsula, would commu- nicate Leely with one another ; and this peninsula we now know to have been added to the continent, step by step, in a southerly direction. We know that the time cannot be far behind us when the present reef, with its few kays, did not exist, and when the channel, therefore, was broader, and the Gulf Stream flowed directly along the main range of kays. We know, fiirther, that at some earlier period the kays themselves were not yet formed, and that the channel between Cuba and Florida was wider still, wasmng freely over the grounds now known as the mud flats, between the kays and the main land, and that there was then nothing to impede a fr«e communication between the Gulf of Mexico and the Atlantic ocean. If it istrue that the Gulf Stream and the south-west winds have an influence in determining the course of the isothermal lines upon the two sides of the Atlantic, and of raismg beyond their normal altitude the mean annual temperatures of north- west Europe, then we may look to the physical changes which have occurred on the south-eastern extremity of the North American continent for the ca\ise, or at least a partial cause, of those changes of temperature which have taken place in the begin- ning of the present period, in those very north-western portions of Europe which are now so much warmer thai ^he corresponding latitudes on the American continent, and which, itoon after the . ccumulation of the glacial drift, had as low mean annual temperatures as the coasts of Labrador, Nova Scotia, and New England in our day. The present condition of the Florida country then is this ; — On the outer edge we have " the reef" a submerged line of danger to the navigator, which rises nearly to the surface of the water, on which every variety of coral life is developed. It follows the line of Kays within it in a perfectly parallel curve, and forms tne boundary to the Ship Channel inside it for hundreds of miles. Upon this line and space are small SatchpH w?iich rise above the surface, of course of dead coral, and upon these is gra- nnlly heaped the e^irtis of the reef, in the from of sand and broken coral till it atl us a permanent level above the surface. Within this reef is a channel which has a depth of from 2 to 7 and 8 fathoms, which, with care and some knowledge, may be navigated, and which has various openings to it through the reef. These Kays consist geneiuUy of coral boulders and the fragments of coral and shells heaped up by the action of the waves, and which have become agglutinated by some 111 are process, till they become firm land, not by the upheaval of old coral growths, L by the action of a stormy sea and tremendous waves. They are generally level, an I it is only at times that the water rises sufficiently to occount for their elevation. We have noticed on page — an instance long recorded of an extraordinary rise in the waters. In the year 1846, the water rose eight and a half feet above high- water mark at Key Vacaa. Key West was entirely inundated during the same gale ; and though that island is somewhat protected by the reef, even at present fhe rashes, driven upon * it by the flood, may be seen among the trees and bushe;., at a l.eight almost equal to its loftiest summit. In 1841 the water rose ten feet ahove high-water mark at Cape Romaine, on the western shore of the peninsula. This brief notice must suffice on this head. Proceeding still further northward, we find an important result of the operation of the Gulf Stream, in the formation of the rauge of the Sea IsIh da of Georgia, so famous for the growth of its peculiar cotton. These low alluvial deposits are the results of gradual accretion still going on, which afibids a genial soil for the cotton plant, while the tepid woters of the Gulf Stream, which rush past them, tempers the easterly winds which blow on this seaboard, and add their important influences to the peculiar growth of this cotton plant. (244.) Although its shores afford many living wonders, the bed of the Gulf Stream is still more the suiiipot of marvel. The bottom has been brought up in considerable quantities from thp ^leatest depths, and has been found to consist almost entirely of 336 OBSERVATIONS ON THE CURRENTS. minute animal forms, covered with or having skeletons oT a oiM*. vreor.i or silioeoos nature. The following is the account given of them by Mr. 1 F. Pourtales, U.S. Coast Survey; they were procured by Lieutenant Craven, U.S. Navy, as before stated: — Lat. 26' 12', long. 79** 54' (off Hillsborough Inlet), depth fiOO fathoms. This speci- men consists almost entirely of foraminifersB with a very small proportion of quartzose sand, estimated at about 10 per cent, in bulk. Okibigerina rubra forms the mass, with a pretty large proportion of Rotalina cultrata, Orbulina univeraa, and TextuUtria turbo. It also contains minute gasteropoda (natica'hassa ?) and fragments of the shell of a crab. The whole is of a chalky white colour, only a few of the globi^erinie being pink. _Lat. 27° 37', long. 79° 19', depth 600 fathoms; has the api)earance of fine white mud, mixed with yellow sand. It is composed entirely of foraminiferee and their Augments, in the form of a fine powder. No silex. Lat. 28° 24', long. 79° 13' (on the outer eflge of the stream off Cape Canaveral), depth 1,050 fathoms. Composed of foraminiferee ; silicious sand in almost impercep- tible quantity. A small portion taken from the lower part of the specimen, after shaking it with water, only showed one or two per cent, of silicious sand after disso- lution m acid. Globtgerma rubra (white, yellow, and pink — the two first colours predominant) forms the greater bulk. Also, Orbulina univeraa, Rotalina cultrata, Rayleyi and Ehrenbergii. Of other animal remains there were found pieces of coral (cariophillia — ? — some white and worn, and some brown, and in better condition), a piece of a large Gasteropod, old; and worn pieces- of Anatifa, and very small pteropods (spiratella). Lat. 29° 48' 0', long. 79° 31' 0' (in the strength of the stream off St. Augustin), depth 560 fathoms. Globigerina rubra and Rotalina cultrata, in about equal propor- tions. No quartzose sand or other material. Lat. 29° 48' 0', long. 79° 17' 0% depth 450 fathoms. Globigerina, Orbulime, and Rotalina (R. cultrata). No quartzose sand. It contains, also, considerable numbers of very delicate shells of pteropod molluscs, belonging to the genera Hyalsea, Spinalis, and Spiratella ; also, small pieces of coral. Lat. 31° 32', long. 78° 20' (in the centre of the stream off Savannah), depth 600 fathoms. Consists in foraminiferee and small shells, and in fragments of shells and corals. The foraminifcra) are chifly larger specimens of a kind of Rotalina, of a rough ard heavy appearance. The other kinds found among them present also a similar appearance. The fr-agments of shells and corals are worn and rounded, and seem to indicate an agitation of the water near the bottom. The scientific names attached to these minute creatures can be explained in other works. But some interesting questions arise on this unexpected discovery. The first is, did these creatures live and die in their present position? or were they living on the surface, and when dead have fallen to the bottom ? At first it was considered that the latter was the true solution of the difficulty, but later researches have made it almost certain that their natural locality is in these vast depths, and that here they grow and accumulate, perhaps forming vast deposits similar to those of our chalk and marl formations, which, as it is well known consist for the most part of the calcareous coverings of* microscopic animalculte. In the changes which have occurred in the geological history of the crust of our earth, there are but few animals which have passed through several epochs. But the Foratninifera, the Globigerina, so abundantly found as above, is also most abundantly met with fossilised in the chalk. 'They are met with in this apparently light-brown mud brought up by the sounding machine, of all dimensions, from less than one-thousandth of an inch in diameter up to more than one-sixteenth of an inch. They are very beautiful objects in the microscope, and as quoted above, are found to be coloured pink, S^c, showing that light does penetrate to these vast depths, and they also contain the animal tissues, which demonstrate that they are, or hav^ been, recently alive. This latter point was not believed to be possible beyond 300 or 400 fathoms a few years since, but the important discovery of lire itar-fUh brought wn from the denth of 1260 fathoms, between Greenland and THE GULF STREAM. 937 Iceland (as quoted on page 261) show thia opinion to be onfoonded. Kworm stem also brought up firom 726 fathoms at 180 miles E.N.E. of Trhiity Bay, Newfoundland, by Lieutenant Dayman, in 1867. §i46.) It is shown above that the bottom at the greater depths of 1,000 fathoms upwards consisted almost excltmvely of these minute organisms, and that the tem- perature at these depths is about 40° Fahrenheit. The same circumstances and con- ditions are found to exist in a very remote part of the ocean ; that above alluded to, between the British Isles, Iceland, and Greenland. In the operations of sounding for the Atlantic Telegraph Cable by Lieutenant Dayman, in 1867, and Sir L. M'Clin- tock, in 1860, the bottom was plentiftilly brought up fi-om these high latitudes. In an examination, by Professor Huxley, of these deposits, he found them almost in the same condition as they had been found by Mr. Pourtales in the Gulf Stream. " The soundings which present most attraction to the naturalist are those obtained firom great dcn>ths. Those which I have examined ranee from 1,700 to 2,400 fathonur (taking the depths marked upon the labels of the bottles), that is to say, from depths equivalent to heights between that of the Peak of Teneriffe and that of Mont Blanc. ^ " A singidar uniformity of character pervades these soundings so far as I have hitherto gone. As they he undisturbed they form an excessively fine, light brown, muddy sediment at the bottom of the bottles in which they are preserved ; but in this mud a certain slight erittiness can be detected, arising from the intermixture of minute hard particles (Hardly any exceeding l-60th of an inch in diameter), in larger or smaller, proportions, and, as might be expected, always existing in much greater quantity towards the bottom of the deposit. << When a little of this mud is taken out, and thoroughly dried, it )jecomes white or reddish white, and (though less white) closely resembles very fine chalk. « Fully nine tenths, as I imagine, by weight, of this deposit consists of minute animal organisms, called Foranunifera, provided with thick skeletons composed of carbonate of lime. " When a little of the mud is diluted with water, and spread out under the micio- scope, the first thing that strikes the eye is the immense number of exceedingly minute granules and fragments which strew the field of vision. « Memy of these particles have a brownish colour, and are insoluble in strong hydrcH chloric and nitric acids ; many are simply fragments of the organisms contained in the deposit, and siliceous or calcareous, as the case may be. <' The comparatively heavy and solid calcareous organisms to which I have above referred, are those wmch, by their larger forms, are the chief source of the grittiness of the deposit. They are nearly opaque, and appear white by reflected light. I have estimated their proportion as nine-tenths of the whole ; of these nine-tenths I am certainly under the mark in saying, that eight and a half tenths, or 86 per cent, of the whole, consist of one genus, and, as I beUeve only one species of Foraminifera — Olobigerina, in all its various and multiform stages of growth. I have traced this, Foraminifer through a complete series of gradations from less than one thousandth of an inch in diameter, when it consists of only one or two cells, up^ to more than one- sixtieth of an inch ; but, except for the marked peculiarties in the structure of its skeleton, I shotdd hardly have ventured to incluoe all its protean varieties under one head. " The other five per cent, of the calcareous orgamsms are Foramin\fera, of, at most, not more than four or five species. " The remaining five per cent, of the whole deposit consist partly of the g^nular matter above mentioned, partly of animal and partly of vegetable organisms, provided with siliceous skeletons and envelopes." These two regions, so remote from each other, under such opposite climates, and yet having such remarkable indentity in some particulars, are thus brought here together to suggest to the sailor, who passes unheedingly over these microscopic and 2 u i;5 OBSERVATIONS ON THE CURRENTS. hitherto hidden worlds, ft l^eme of wonder and enqnirjr, upon which volumes may he composed. , ;v:i3«iii.>.^,r,',N».<'. i^i.-!v;v..-j^t ju^i,- -..-.;> ■■f 9£^J ■ 1,--*. * (246.) There is another singular point of resemblance, too, which would lead to the supposition that our theories of the internal heat of the globe, of the law of heat at ffreat depths in the ocean, or that of the sub-surface circulation, may be at fault. It has been shown that 1,000 fathoms beneath the surface of the Gulf Stream, with a temperature of 83° and upwards, the water at its bed^ is not above^40'". Lieutenant Dayman found the temperature at 1,000 fathoms, in latitude 02" N., longitude 30» W., to be 40''-8 ; and in latitude 61' N., longitude 40°, at the same depth, it was 32'-7, the surface temperature being M'-S. The bed of the ocean, the habitation of the minute animalcule has the same clitnate in both inatances. These considerations must conclude this topic. / THE QULF STREAM SOUTH OF THE NEWFOUNDLAND BANKS. (247.) The Gulf Stream, in the course described, has flowed with a gradually decreas- ing rate and temperature, and with a well defined north-western margin, the " cold wall." It brings its tropical character almost unimpaired up to the Nantucket Banks. These are almost the first outlying obstacles it encounters in its onward course, and their position and character would lead to the supposition, that their existence was in some degree owing to the matter carried northward by tlie Gulf Stream, and that transpoi-ted by the arctic current from the north-eastward, which here meet and pass each other on opjMJsito courses. The very peculiar coi. figuration of the Cape Cod peninsula will point to current-action in some former geologic era for its character. The Gulf Stream appears to be diverted to the E.N.E. by the obstruction presented by the Nantucket Banks, and it then bears away past the banks which front Nova Rcotia and Newfoundland, skirting the lower edge of the Grand Banks. The main body of the stream still proceeds with considerable velocity from 28 to 16 miles per day, and its southern limit is gradually lost in the quiet water or varying drifts of the Sargasso Sea. (248.) The northorhf edge of the stream, if such it can be called, between the meridians of 70° and 40° W. presents a very singular aspect, as it seems to be a per- petual struggle between the icy waters of the arctic regions and these tepid waters of the tropics. They here interlace and intersect ench other in the most extraordi- nary way, " in the manner of the fingers of the clasjHjd hands," and no definite limit can be assigned at any time for either of these streams. It would be impossible by mere words to explain the entanglement of these two currents. The Thermal Charts of Maury will be the best exemplification, and the confusion they show in this part will tell how hopeless it must be to reduce them to an exact system. The late respected and eminent Dr. Scoiesby has left us some observations on this point, partly derived from his own experience and portly from rcnuirks supplied to him by Captain Jas. Delano. They were read by him at 'Hull, ui 1853, and as they bear ujjon our subject wo hero repeat a portion of them. It may be premised that Dr. Storeaby divides the ocean traversed, as usual in the voyagje between the English Channel ana I^ong Island, U.S., into 6 sections of 10° of longitude, the first three of which, from longitude 12° to long. 42° W., exhibit a strikiug unilbrmity of chococter as regards the sui'face temperature. " In the fourth section, 42° to 52"' W., however, the indications respectively of the two great currents of the North Atlantic liecome striking and characteristic. Be- yonu the meridian of 42°, where the cold current fr-m the nortli becomes first decided, an increase of its provnlency, gradually becoming more and more conspicuous, is tibserved. Thus in the two aegreCH' space, from 42° tr 44° W., the somewhat low temperature of 44'' was only obscrvoa in one out of thirteen passages ; but in the next two degrees a Hkc modorate fall of temperstur.^ fubout 7° oelow the mean) •loeurrrd in thrrp or four of the pasHOges ; in the mxi v . idi'^nal stripe, cold water mnl' Vt'ltn 111 mfihi /i4* fKo t\nMunn<>a (fr\%\^ a«« fl* iIISm*-*. #w . >a <>«•« s xr •\t\Q 4-A lAO 1«««1^«** 4^li« \iKt a^w trVtUTT M»V TUB QULF STREAM. 839 IICUOUH, U mean) i in the next, the cold water ocoorred in nine or ten passages (six falling l(f to 24° below the meaii) ; in the next stripe, longitude 50" to 62° W., the cold water met with in eight passages (five foiling 12° to 22° below the mean). " Within the same section, 42° to 52» W,, very perceptible marks of an ascending tropical current occui-red, yielding, in alternations Mrith the cold water from the north, an occasional wpvmth of 66" to 68°. The prevaloncy, however, of the occurrence of warm water in this position of the Atlantic appears from the observations tabulated to be in reverse order (when sailing westward from longitude 42°) to t^t of the cold current j the first two-degree stnpe presenting a rise of from 63° to 68° in six passages ; the next, a rise of similar extent in five ; the next, a smaller rise in four ; the next, less marked in three ; and the last, 50° to 52° W., in four, but still less marked. Hence from the observations it appeared, that the greatest prevalence of the polar currents (betwixt 42° and 52° W.) is within the merimans of 46° and 62°, and of the warmer current in 42^ to 46° W. " It is within this meridional section mainly, corresponding in its central part with the eastern edge of the great bank of Newfoundland, in which the icebergs and drift ice from the north are usually met with ; so that the prevalence of a descending polar current obtains actual demonstration. The Jtjth section, reaching from 52° to 62° W., is found to be equally characterised by pecuhor phenomena as the one preceding it. The general prevalence of the de- scending polar current is shown by the minimum temperature of each meridional space of 2°, ranging betwixt 32° and 42°, with a mean of the five minima of 37°'2. 'rhe prevalence of an ascending current from south-westward is, in like manner, shown by the occurrence of a maximum surface temperature ranging betwixt 63° and 74°, with a mean of the five maxima of 6S''-d. " But the characteristic features of this fifth deciiuute section were found to consist in the suddenness of the changes of the surface temperature and the various alterna- tions, indicative qf singular interiacings of warm and cold water. " In a passage in the Patrick Henry, in May, 1844, made by Dr. Scoresby, them sudden and alternating changes were remarkably prevalent. Thus when in longi- tude 57° 0' W. (lat. 41' 31' N.) the surface temperature, et 8 a.m. of May 17th, w.^i found to be 60<"5 1 but after sailing W.N.W. (true) 10 miles, it was found to be 50°, at noon 16 miles further on the same course 46°. At 2 p.m. of the same diy, longi- tude 57° 55' W. the sea was still at 46° ; but at 4 p.m., after 15 miles' sai'ing W.N.W., it had risen to 57°, and in 15 miles ftirther in the same direction it was found to have fallen to 42° ! The next da^, May 18th, presented further remarkable changes. At 8 a.m., longitude 50° 52', latitude 42° 8' N., the surface temperature waa 46° I out at 10 a.m., 15 miles W. | S., it haa risen to 61°, a change of 15° in two hours ! At midnight, again, of the 10th-20th the sea was at 50" ; four hours after- wards, 26 miles to the 8.W. by W., it was 63°. Within this section the cold or polar current was found to be chiefly prevalent in the firitt and last of the two-degree spaces, but the most most so in the lost, that is, in longitude 60° to 62° W. ; and tno most prevalent examples of the Oulf Stream ap- peared within the meridians of 58° and 62°. W. " The relations of the polar current and Gulf Stream, as thus indicated by the analyses of thirteen transatlantic passages generally, change, it should be observed, materially with the seasons of the year. Thus the desocuuing polar current, which appears so prevalent within the western half of the belt of waters referred to in the discussion of the whole of the voyages, is found to be of comparative small impoi-t- anco in the summer and autumn passages, whilst the Oulf Stream is then the most predominant. Hence the shifting of the upper margin of thtf Gulf Stream north- ward at these seasons, as popularly understood, obtains very decided confirmation."* • Report of ths Brit*^ Assodatioa, 1853. 340 OBSERVATIONS ON THE CURRENTS. (2490 It has been stated, from the informatlou of AnlericativoaBters, that tiie northern edtfe of the stream ezteads to the latitude of 41° 20' or 41° 30', on the meridian of Sable Island (60° W.) ; but this assertion has been controverted by others, who have averred that its northern edge never ascends beyond the parallel of 40°. Tbe latter is erroneous ; for many instances prove the contrary. Colonel Williams, in his " Thermometrical Naviffation" (Philadelphia, 1799), states that the whirlpools of the eddy' on the nortliexsi e^e of the stream nave been seen in lat 41° 57', long. 65° 1'. He also observed great quantities of weed, supposed to be on the northern edge .of the stream, in lat. 41° 53'. long. 15° 33' It has subsequently been ascertained by Lieut. Charles Hare, R.N., that on the meridian of 57° W. in the summer season (the rainy aeaaon of the West Indies), the northern edge of the stream ranges up to 42}° N. ; and even in the winter months to above 42° N. ^ r . r . (250.) There is one special feature in the irreg^arity of the temperature south of the Grand Bank : it is, that the arctic stream seems to set farther to the south by 2° or 3° on the meridian of the Bank, or 48° to 60* W., than it does either east or v, ■ st of it. Thia is doubtless owing to the effect of the Baak in raising the cold lower stratum to the surface, and rendering it cooler than it would otherwise be from the latitude, and also that the southward current may be somewhat stronger here than it u on either side of it. The ice which is annually drifted from Baffin's Bay, Greenland, and Labrador passes over the Bank, perhaps, in the greatest quantity in this tongue of cold water, which protrudes so far in to the Gulf Stream, and which is such a terror to navigation in this parf of tlic route — a danger not diminished by the constant haze which over- hangs it from the unequal temperature of the warm sea and the cool atmosphere. (251.) Referring to tho peculiar character of the land and shores in the neighbom-- bourhood, the opinion was alluded to in (247.), page 238, which made the existence and formation of the banks of Nantucket and Nova Scotia, as owing to the irans- def>ri« of tho porting influcncoH of the Gulf Stream, bringing to the northward the d(^f< shores and ibottom of the ocean which it passos m its course, and depositing the matter when it encounters the adverse arctic current from the northward. The t ime argu- ment may be held as to the Nowfoundlan(' Banks, which probably owe « portion of their formation te the same origin. Besides this, there can bo no doubt but that the icebergs which come down from the north in such enormous quantities in the spring and early summer bring large quantities of earth and rocks from the land where they are formed, and here deposit them as they melt. It might, therefore, be expected that these banks, in the quality of the bottom, will have a mixture both of tropical and of polar additions — a question of great interest to the geologist. But there is another opinion which may also be partially correct : it is, that they are natural plateaux upon which the marine deposits are laid and increase their elevation. M. BeautemjJS-Beaupre (son of the famous hydrographcr) procured fragments of tho rock at the bottom in lat 45° 16', SO" 35' W., 37 fathoms — a piece of rock containing shells and broken shells. It was brought hv Captain Miliner, of the ship La Jeune Agathe, in June 6, 1844. In June, 1846, tno same commander procured other and similar pieces in 46° 18' N., long. 6° 31' W., in 38 fathoms ; and again, in 1860, in 45° 15' N., long. 66° 8' W., in 38 fathoms. Ho never found this rock but in tlus neigh- bourhood. It conHisted of layera of a grey ooloan'ous sandy stone, containing shells similar to the tertiary deposits on the sub-Apalaehiun IiUIh of the Southern States ; and, according to M. Elie de Beaumont, it verifies a conjecture of his, that these bankH are but a submarine prolongation of the tertiary plateaux of Georgia, tho Carolinas, and Maryland.* A special section oil this important subject in connection with transatlantic naviga- tion in given hereafter. * Comtea Rondua : AoadamlA do* Hnionnoa. Anril. IMtn. n. gOA THE OULF STREAM. m northern ;ridian of 7ho have lie latter B, in his oUi of the g. 66" 1'. igcofthe by Lieut, tne rainy 42}» N. ; ) south of uth by 2° >r T.' st of )r stratum ) latitude, I it is on Labrador jld water, lavigaiion kich over- iliere. eighboiu'- existence the irans- 'm of the the matter >me argu- portion of : that the 10 spring 'here they expected ' tropical it there is natural m. nts of the ontaining La Jeune other and 1850, in UH neigh- ng sheila n States ; hat these >rgia, the c naviga- MORTH-fiABTEBLT DBIFT BBTWESN THE NEWFOUNDLAND BANKS AND EDBOPE, &0. (252.) The Gulf Stream, as an independent current, seems to be neutralised by the counter-effect of the arctic current ana its own diminished powers about the Banks of Newfoundland (257.). In its greatest strength, that is, when the sun is in a northern latitude, of course its strength is maintained to a greater distance eastward. It is singular to say that we have no very perfect or extended series of observations on record of the orift-ciirrents which unquestionably extend from this longitude to the shores of Western Europe. Not that there is any doubt of the fact, because nume- rous climatorial and natural effects render it certain, and we have, moreover, the evidence of numerous bottles which have been drifted by its current to its shores, as will be quoted presently. But from some cause or other shipmasters have not so carefriUy recorded their observations on the drift betweeii Europe and Newfoundland as in other parts of the ocean. Perhaps one reason of the absence of any marked drift being announced is, that ships, in passing east and west, are alternately affected by the Gulf Stream drift and the arctic current, which thus neutralise each other's eflfects, and leave the im- pression that no current, has been encountered. (253.) As before said, we have many evidences of the extension of the tropical waters to our own shwes. The gulf weed is not imfrequently encountered in the English Channel or on its shores. Many articles, too, are annually thrown upon the shores of Portugal, as mahogany logs, &c, Aeain, the coasts of Norway show every evidence of the effects of warm water di'irted up to its shores. The great Lofoten fishery is a good example. (254.) It is true that some observations on the temperature of the sea about the Scottish Islands made by Dr. Stark, has thrown doubt as to the actual presence of tropically-heated waters ; yet it must be confessed that as yet we know so little of sub- surface action that it may be quite possible that some under-set may be coming down from the northw-»rd, and rising on the bank of soundings lower than the sea tempe- rature in the bays and hart>ours of our shores. That his important observations in some degree negative the opinion that the Gulf Stream reacuoy thus far unimpaired in its charactei-istics, need not be a subject of surprise, since we have shown that the volume of the Gulf Stream ii'. its greatest strength is ulmost insignificant when com- pared with its hitherto supposed effects. The climate of the northern countries of Europe is more ameliorated by the pre vailing S- W. winds which have passed over the waiT^er waters in lower latitudes. By referring to pages 299, ?10 (67.) ani (68.) and the illustrative diagrams, it will be seen ho»' the westerly and south-wc .: erly winds prt dominate, not onb' in a nume- rical proportion, b xt also n greater amount of force. It is to this that is to be attri- buted so large an a)nount of that amenity of climate which distinguishes the eastern from the western shores of the Atlantic in high northern latitudes. (255.) But while the wind thus tempers the climate in its passage N.E., it also drives the water before it, and, beyond all question, eaui to the North and lauses the surface of the ocean to be of a higher temperature, even "up to the Sea of Spitzbergen. Many well-known instances of its effects might be cited, as that of the nords and inlets of • Norway, even as far north as HammerfeKt and the North Cape, ne ver freezing over in the winter, the climate of Norway rillowing the cultivation of corn, &c., in such marked con tiast to the countries on the American wde in the some latitude, only ada])ted for the habitation of the Esquimaux and tlic arctic am mals. (256.) Wo are indebted to Captain Tmiinger, of the Royal Banish Navy, for a collection of observations an.l experiments on tlu currents of higli northern latitudes, which lie has published in a work in tJic Danish language. Tliese ol)servationH stand almost iilone, and have still farlher increased our knowledge of this interesting Hr riHs also wvii explained how it is that Iceland is in- brsRch of !net«oiviu||fy 912 OBSEKVATIONS ON THE CURRENTS. habitable, and possessed of a comparatively mild climate to what would be argued from its latitude and position. It is to the effect of the warm waters brought to the East of the Newfoundland Banks bv the Gulf Stream, which are drifted as far north and west as the west side of Iceland by the prevalent winds as before described. (257.) Some of the data supplied to Commodore Irminger were collected by Captains HolboU and Ulrich, and others, in the voyages between Denmark and Iceland, Greenland, &o., in various men of war. Between Shetland and Iceland, the mean of the observations give a daily rate of current of 2*4 miles to N. 52° E. ; but it was very irregular. It was strongest near the Shetlands, 4-7 miles per day N. 72° E. ; and Iceland, 3-1 miles N. 47° E. true. A northerly current was also foimd to run from G'2 to 5 miles per day between Iceland and GreeuWd in April and September. /f^';r .-,.,./ ;.,(.f • As regards the temperature, which is a sure test of the origin of the stream, it is found that between the Tueridian of Fair Island and 30^ W. there is no great varia' tion in temperature,* but the ocean to the westward of 30° W. is found to increase in coldness as Greenland is approached. Again, it is foimd that the temperature of the ocean in spring is as high at South Iceland as it is at the Shetlands and Foeroes, although lyine several degrees more north. The observations for temperature between Iceland and Shetland show that there are stripes of warmer and cooler water, with a difference of temperature of 2°'5 to 4°-d Fahrenheit, in a similar way to those noticed in (248.), pap^e 339. These lines follow the direction of the current, but are not con- stant in their position. « The current runs in a north-westerly direction from long. 18° W. toward Reikia- ness, th ^ south-west cape of Iceland. Commodore Irminger found it in a mean of five days in May and June, 1846, to run in a N. 15° W. direction, at a mean rate of 4*3 miles per day. This northerly current on the west side of leland is well known to the fishermen, and in evidence of it the temperature of the water in Keikiavik Harbour nmy be cited. In May and June it has been found to be 47°'4 ; in July, 53°-3 ; and in August, 51°6 ; while on the coast of Greenland abreast of it tlie ipean varies between 28" and 34° Fahrenheit. This warm current runs still farther north- ward till it is stopped by the southern drift, which sets south-westward from Spitz- bergen down towards the south coast of Greenland and Davis Strait, and wnich approaches the N.W. point of Iceland. (258.) There is, as has been stated, abundant proof that tropical products reach the shores of Portugal and Western Euit>pe. But they are also found much to the north- ward. Several species of Mimosa (mimosa scandens, &o.) are found on the coa«ts of Norway, the Faroe Islands, Iceland, &c., among other drift-wood frequently thrown ashore. In some cases this drift-wood is very abundant and serviceable to the in- habitants for fuel. On the Faroe Islands one ^lacc (Ku'kcboe) used to afford the owner an annual revenue of 60 or 60 dollars, which, however, was diminishing. The wood seemt to be fir, probably from America. One trunk was 6^ feet in circumfer- ence. On the north coast of Iceland very considerable quantities are found, among which is larch, thought to be cedar by the inhabitants. This probably comes from Siberia. c - (259.) As a general summary, then, it may be said that the anti-trades drift the waters Drought by the Gull Stream to the meridiaii of the Ncwibundluud Bunks in a north-westerly, westerly, and northerly direction, at a moderate rate, towards the coostM of Portugal, the Uritish Isles, Norway, and to Iceland. The further progress of this diift on to the arctic basin, around wliich it circulates, and finally emerges around the coast of Greenland, and thence down Iiabrador, and finally is lost in uio Gulf Stream as before explained.f The finul evidence of its action which will bo here adduced is the drift of bottles, to which we have before referred (131.). • See tJ»«t ' >lH*Hiv.»n.>nH of Dr. 8coro«by (261), page 338. t See TnuuaotiooB of Britiob Awtociation, Livurpoo), 1864 ; 8«)ottoQ £, THE GULF STREAM. 1)6 argued ipht to the far north bed. collected Denmark land and : miles to 4*7 miles irrent was enland in ream, it is reat Taria* Qcrease in ire of the 1 Foeroes, e between er, with a ie noticed e not con- d Reikia- 1, mean of !an rate of ell known Heikiavik ; in July, the ipean ler north- om Spitz- nd wnich reach the the north- ! coasts of T thrown the in- Lffurd the ng. The ircumfor- d, among mes from drift the xnks in a rards the progress emerges at in the will be (260.) Bottlefl. — ^The following statement of the drift of bottles is derived from Captain Becher's Bottle Chart. Many of the particulars contained in it have been given in our former editions, but they are here given entire, in order that an estimate may be formed of the strength of the current in which they have drifted. It may be f remised that the length of their courses is given in the shortest or direct distance, t therefore underrates their progress, as they have doubtless not generally pursued the shortest track to their destination : — Ship. }^'' Osprey Wallace Tyne Kent Niger BoUvar Mary Ibbctson President . . . Virginia Persian Albert Ardent Superior Enterprise . . Mary , Orbit Romulus .... Helen Sandwich . . J. Cropper . . , Seine British Queen Royal Union Elizabeth . . Victoria .... Alexander . . Alexander . . Newcttstle . . J. Esdailo . . R. de Holland Jerey Delia ..'..'.'.. Normandie . . Graham .... Signature. McGill.... Robertson . R. Hope.. W. L Merret . . Lock .... of Stockton Scott .... Mallard . . Robertson . Duncan . . Munson . . Godfrey . . Boot .... Crawford . . Butman . . Squire^ .... MarHhall . . Hamilton . Grant .... J. E Poxry .... Parry ; . . . Napier .... King .... Groeneld . . Cook .... Johnstone . Adey .... Spalding . . Beach .... Where left. Year. 1822 1835 1834 1836 1839 1840 1832 1826 1836 1838 1834 1822 1824 1842 1833 1840 1811 1819 1834 1821 1824 1811 1838 1822 1819 1834 1818 1818 1819 1821 1850 1846 1847 1842 1844 1847 Lat. N. 49-6 52-2 46-6 50-3 48-2 46-9 44-2 65-5 48-5 42-2 47-1 47-3 67-0 63-8 46-1 47-3 46-8 67-8 47-3 60-3 48-3 60-7 43-9 48-2 47.0 45-0 691 620 38-9 36-9 46.0 50-6 47-3 500 67-1 611 Long. 12-5 16-0 16-9 19-0 18-9 18-6 18-0 18-3 19-6 19-3 20-4 21-9 24-5 24-0 24-3 27-4 270 30-7 33-6 36-4 38-1 40-3 44-6 46-2 49-2 600 52-3 540 640 71-8 20-5 ao-5 21-7 26-0 33-2 46-fi Where found. Wales Ushant Devon .... Boulogne . . Quiberon . . France France .... Killala .... France .... Cork Ireland Somerset .... Lewis Dunnet Head France Clare I Ireland Shetland .... Scilly Hebrides .... Mounts Bay . . Kerry Newport . . . . Scilly Rathlin Isle . . Lauds End . . Staffa Donegal . . . . Ireland Lancashire . . Glandore . . . . Brest Brest Ireland Norway Barnstaple . . 36 130 71 126 177 94 310 59 128 45 113 186 171 175 316 111 330 110 179 184 398' 274 66 76 311 215 437 416 356 495 345 69 206 138 228 233 M. 270 460 600 890 700 700 700 300 650 750 600 820 610 800 980 850 860 1000 1150 1100 1230 1130 1700 1460 1600 1760 2400 2600 2700 3000 680 480 700 60 1400 1560 M. 7-6 4-2 8-4 70 4-8 7-0 2-2 6-0 41 17-0 41 4-3 3-6 50 3-1 7-7 2-7 91 6-4 6-3 2-4 4-5 25-7 19-9 6-0 8-2 6-5 6-2 7-3 70 20 8-0 3-6 4-6 61 6-7 ThcBO bottles taken from Captain Becher's Hat in the" Nautical Magaaine," 1 852, have been selected from those wbii ii have iiiadr the ordinary dritt,. The ehart which shows their direction, points most dearly to tbo westward and north-westward drift, although the rote is not high, bying for the above 6-6 miles per day, which, as is said above, is probably bi'low tiieir actual rate. It wiH uIho be observed that their vidocity varies 344 OBSERVATIONS ON THE CURRENTS. ^[reatly, a long ooune having beeu perfonned at a mile an hour and upwards, while in other cases their progress would be inappreciable in the navigation of a ship. (261.) The effect, then, of this extension of the waters of the Gulf Stream will not have much iiifluence on the course of a ship passing through it, and its general effect, it is believed, is properly represented in the diagram of the currents, at page 259. Its Smeral direction in its main strength will be a little to the north of east, between e latitudes of 43° and 60°, and its main mean velocity from 9 to 11 miles per day, but at times, as shown above, rising to above three times that rate, especially during and succeeding heavy westerly gales. Further to the north, that is. between latitudes 60° and 60°, ito mean direction will be about E.N.E., bearing more northward as it approaches the coa^t, and its rate from 5 to 8 miles per day. Still further northward, our scanty knowledge will only lead to the inference that it drifts irregularly to the N.N.E., and partially to the N.W. at times, but is then probably very feeble, and intermixed with the veins of cold water drifted by the N.E. winds which prevail in the latitudes above liibi-way, &c. Lastly, although its relation to navigation is not of very hi^h importance, its effects in the great economy of the oceavi are most important. By its influences the North Polar Basin is annually opened to navigation, and its shores made habitable to the wandering and scattered Esquimaux tribes, who flourish under the terrific winter temperature. It makes the north a marked contrast to the Southern Polar regions, where no warm gulf stream penetrates, and where, in a constant deposition, those amazing ice fields are formed which cover the whole of the region in perpetual ice of many hundreds of feet in thickness. Were it not for this intlux of warmer waters into the Arctic regions, where the mean annual temperati-re is beneath the freezing point, the wholgs which parts, as r by Lan- t through le expeoii- irift pant e melting ards that at, winter he Arctic Meaolute, estimated above. .ed in the tendency les south- I per hour he masses rack, and tion. As of Davis Hi" to 39" ed that a of ice had BoncluHion ure of the water, as which has aland. A ne<\ into a Admiral Those in ii Edward pine quite driftwood und much 60', long. hut their THE ARCTIC CURRENT. 347 this 18 tlie most imp As this debateable groimd for the currents is peculiarly interesting, we give, as heretofore, the account of a passage during the ice season across this portion of the Atlantic. It may not dificr from me ordinary experience of any seaman, but it points to some facts heretofore discussed. (268.) Remarks from the journal of Lieutenant J. Steele Park. — " On Monday, 7th of July, 1827, our latitude at noon was 40° 29' N., and the long. 53° 30' W., hy lunars and chronometer. The temperature of the water 73°, and the air 75° ; the wmd S.E. by E., a light breeze : the ship close-hauled on the starboard tack, lying N.E. by E., and going 2 knots (she was now in the Gulf Stream). At five p.m. tried the water agaw, and found tne temperature down to 67°! Hove the ship to immediately to sound, but got no bottom with 100 fathoms of line, right up and down. Nothing to be seen from the mast-head ; no ice ii;>i danger of any kind, and the temperature of the air not affected (a cold vein of • c.ter from the north). Took altitudes for the chronometer at the same time, which uiace the long. 53° 18'. We then filled and made sail again. At half-past five the W8^;v-r was 1° warmer, viz., 68° ; at six it was 6P° ; at seven, 69° ; at eight, 70° ; at ten, 70° ; and at midnip^ht it was 71°. On Tuesday morning, at four o'clock, the water was 72° ; at eight it stood at 74° ; and, at noon, 74° ; when the latitude and longitude were 41° 16' N., 62° 24 W. "Had the atmosphere not heen perfectly clear when we hove the ship to, I should have suspected that we were in tho vicmitv of an iceberg, but it was serene and beautiful ; therefore the sudden fall <■>( 6° of the thermometer, in this part of the ocean, must be attributed to some other cause. There is a danger of some kind laid down about this spot, by Captain Watson, of Liverpool (to s"-y nothing of our old friend ' Daraith'). We have sailed over the very place where it appears in Purdy's Chart of the Atlantic. However, the water has been so remarkably smooth and unruffled, that we may have passed wit'iin a ship's length of a 'rock even with the water,' without perceiving it. " I am inclined to believe, that we should have found the temperature of the sea below 67°, if it had been tried an hour or two sooner. We have a right to presume that it was rising when I first discovered the change ; for, half-an-hour afterward, it watt 68', and it went on jrogressively, getting warmer and warmer, until it mounted up 74°, and thoi-e it 'jpped: thus famishing a beautiful illuatratiou of the susueptibility, and, t'' . • •;, the usefulness, of this most simple of all iustruiucuts. MS- OBSERVATIONS ON THE CURRENTS. ' ''The latitude of the ship (at five p. m. Monday) may be called 40° 3C iong. d3 13 • " Wednesday ^i^l^ 1 tth. — ^The temperature of the water I try every four houni on ordinary occasi?". ,* und every hour, or every half hour, in approaching soundings or •VigisB. Now, the temperature of the water was 74" ,p't«rday morning at eight o'cloc^; and it continued nearly the same till midnight. H->i-a I found it cooling a little; it was then 71°. During the night it was neglected, and I can say nothing with certainty about the temperature; but I felt a very sensible chtuige in the atmosphere this morning when I went on deck; and when I plunged the thermometer into the sea, I was surprised to see it down to 68°.* We hove the ship to again, and Eossed the lead forward, but there was no bottom with 100 fathoms of line. As I _ new we were only about the parallel of 42°, I did not expect soimdings, but I thought it right to try, ana make quite sure of the thing. The weather very nne, and nothing in sight from the mast-head. Thermomrter in the shade 63°, with a southerly win^ and yesterday it was upwards of 70°. Altitudes for the chronometer were taken, when we hove-to, which made the long. 50° 20' ; and the observed latitude at noon was 42° 7'. The ship made 5' of northmg in the interval between noon and the time we tried the lead, so we must have been in 42° 2' N.> and 60° 20' W., at eight o'clock this morning, when the water was down to 68°. At nine it was 67° ; at ten, 60° ; at eleven, 56° ; at noon, 66"; at two p.m., 57° ; at four, 68° ; at eight, 69 ; and at mid- night, 60°. " Sunday, July 15th. — ^There was very little change in the temperature of the water, from midnight of the 11th till this day at noon, m lat. 44° 17', long. 46° 4'. The cold has beer diminishing gradually and very slowly (the atmosphere as well as the S'oa), but the water is now up again to 70°, and the air to 74° (the ship had again got into Gulf Stream water). " I presume the great diflPerence in the temperature of the ocean-waffer, discovered on Wednesday morning, must be ascribed to tiie proximity of the Grand Bank of Newfoimdlond ; but if the generally received opinion be correct, that *the water is' only ' 5° crld« r at the etfoe of the bank than the deep ocean,' how are we to accoimt for a fall of i4" .tr 16° when we were unquestionably m very deep water, and 30 or 40 miles at Vi; I, fiom. the nearest soundings on the very tail of the bank? This is a probL.f i ilo iv.'t pretend to know much about.f " By-thc hyc, I may notice here again (en passani) what I have had occasion to remark more than once before ; that is, tue northerly set which I have uniformly encountered near the tail of the bank. Now, on the lltn, last Wednesday, the weather was beautiful ; but the next day a fog, with all the density so peculiar to this part of the ocean, closed round us, and we were left to grope about in the dark, or by dead reckoning, which is the same thing. We never g^t a glimpse of the blue sky until this morning, when, by chronometer and excellent lunar distance, together with the sun's meridian altitude, we find out that a current has swept us N. 10° E., 54 miles in three days4 The latitude to-day, at noon, is 44° 17' longitude, by chi'onometer and lunars,' which go hand-in-hand uncommoiily well, 46° 4'. " During the three days' fog the wind was southerly ; we, of course, were standing to the eastward, and I could not understand why the temperature of the sea continued * " She had now entered that peculiar toDjopie of cold water, very often encountered and spoken of which extends far the southward of the ordinary range of the Arctic Current. It has been alluded to on (250.) page 340." t " It may probably be accounted for by the effect of the banks in raising the cooler water of the Arctic Current nearer to the surface, and thus sending southwaras a stronger current of colder water than is found to the eastward or westward of it." X "Another example of this northerly set, see (256.) page 341, which demonstrates how uncertain the cunents are hereabout, is given by Lieutenant Evans, in describing his nm HI roHS the Atlantic, from Newfoundland, in June, 1828, says, ' We experienced a current setting to the northward, sometimes as much as 2) miles in the twenty-four hours ; this cucunuitauco, so contrary to the goncrully received opinion of a permanent cm'rcnt from THE ARCTIC CURRENT. 349 so low and so nearly in the same state all the time ; for, aooordiing to our calculation, vre were making a great deal of easting, consequently increasing our distance from the bank: but, when it brightened up, the mysteiy was explained : we then discovered that the northerly current had carried the ship round the tail, on a course almost parallel to the edge of soundings; therefore the change was slow and gradual until we got beyond its influence." • (269.) The waters of the arctic ocean are thus brought again into that system of circulation which ffives to sea water a iversai character (133.). In former years it was not thought that its effects extended further than this, and the cool S. W. current inside the Gulf Stream wa8 considered to ue an eddy of that great current, whose, temperature was dependent or 'he '^ownp^ ^ the soundings, in contradistinction ,10 v^ to the supposed unfathomable op» earlier editions of this work, hud drift past Newfoundland, and tl > eddy from the Gulf Stream com Its true character was first arg> to science. He drew up a summui v the United States' Exploring Expeiiti. Stream. Captain Pornton, in the. 3en led to conclude that the southward 1 the Gulf of St. Lawrence with the counter-current in question. Hr. W. C. Redfield, a name well-known ks and suggestions for the observers of iider Captain Wilkes, iu 1838, and which Society in May, 1843. From that was read before the American Philosuphical jjaper we will make a few extracts : — " . . . . From what source is that south-westerly current derived, which com- monly prevails along the coast of the United States, in the dii-ection which is oppo- site to the Gulf Stream P * I am aware that it is usually considered by seamen as an eddy current derived from the Gulf Stream ; but from this view I am compelled to dissent. For, in the first place, this current never assumes the gyrating form of an eddy ; but continues its course, when unobstructed by gales, in a direction which is generally parallel to the coast. But, secondly, in case this current be derived from the Guu Stream, it must necessarily partake of the same elevated temperature ; whereas the reduction of temperature which occurs on crossing the north-western limit of the Gulf Stream is most remarkable, and is almost without parallel in the Atlantic, except in the imme- diate vicinity of ice. " It appears vain to allege the proximity of soundings or shallows as explaining this extraordinary change of temperature, for this cannot avail if the waters of the counter-current be derived from the Gulf Stream, to say nothing of the erroneous character of the position here noticed. " From the evidence which is afforded by numerous facts and observations, it appeai-s that the current in question is neither more nor less than a mere sluggish pro- longation of the Polar or Labrador Current, which sweeps along the north-eastern shores of this continent and the Island of Newfoundland ; and this current, if I mis- take not, may be traced in its gradations of temperature, by the thermometer, from off the southern coasts of Newfoundland and Nova Scotia, through the entire distance, to Cape Hatteras, if not to Florida. " An eddy current, off-setting to the Gulf Stream, would nowhere be so likely to be met with as at the point of intersection of this stream vnth the extremity of the 0.1 the North, may be accounted for from the circumstance of the winds being principally from the South and iB.W. A long continuance of southerly winds would have the effect of turn- ing the fluent waters of the Florida Stream, east of the banks, to the northward and eastward, sufficient to produce the superficial current we experienced, and to check the general flow of the waters from tiie northward. We met no ice of any description, nor any mdicution of its^cinity, unless when crossing the tail of the bank ; the constant southerly wind, of course will eabily account for our not seeing any of these formidable dangers ; but it is remarkable (and the instance is a proof of our imperfect knowledge of the theory of winds), that an American brig, making a similar run at the same time, but being about a degree or two farther Nor^h than our parallel, had to contend with strong northerly galea and to encounter numeroas icebergs." *&^ •HjC Photographic ^Sciences CorporatJon 91 WIST MAIN STRMT WniTIR.N.Y. MSM (7U)in-4S03 4^ ^ i\ "i* f 3dO OBSERVATIONS ON THB CURRENTS. Ghrand Bank of Newfoundland, and sweeping fi*om thence upon the southern shores of the ishmd of that name ; and yet the Harbour of St. John's, in the southern part of Newfoundlaad, is Imown to have continued ice-bound, in 1831, so late as the month of June, althoT gh in the latitude of Paris. This fact is a convincing proof of the unim- peded oontinaation of the Polar Current to the southward, in this regioA, notwith* standing the near proximity of the Gulf Stream." (270.) The velocity of the current over the Banks and to the southward of New- foundland is very variable, but at times is graat. We can rather argue from its effects than from direct observation ; for one result of this influx of warm water into a cold region is the production of dense fogs so peculiarly characteristic of the Banks. ** Bank weather" is not fitvonrable to astronomic observation, and hence the paucity of them. f2710 Upon a survey of the Virgin BocTu, in July, 1629, the current at about 80 miles E. b;,- 3. firom Cape Race, was found setting over them to the W.S.W. at the rate of a mile an hour. To different currents must be attributed the loss or the sloop Chmut, the transport Harpooner, H.M.S. Drake, and the brig Spence, all of which were lost, at different times, upon one spot ; the little bay, called St. Shofs Say, on the South coast of New- foundland, and lying between Cape Freels and St. Mary's Bay. The particulars of all these melancholy events have been nven in our " British American Navigator," 1861, and therefore need not be repeated. The Comtu was from the West, and was lost in the night of the 24th of October, 1816, after having soxmded, as supposed, on the inner edge of the Green Bank. The Harpooner, a transport, witli troops, was from Quebec, and bound for London. She struck at 9 p.m. of November 10th, 1816. The Drake sailed from Halifiix for St. John's, 20th June, 1822, under veiy favourable circumstances, upon a direct course, for Cape Race; but on the 23rd the weather became thick, and at noon she was supposed to be 90 miles from Cape Race, but at half-past sevijn p.m. breaken* were reported ahead, and the ship was soon after a total wreck. The Spence was from Riohibucto, in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, with lumber, bound to Liverpool, and was totally lost at St. Shot's, at four p.m., 16th July, 1822. Another vessel, the George Canning, from Chaleur Bay to Aberdeen, was wrecked here, during a dense fog, on the 17th of June, 1829. The five vessels, it may be seen, were all from the tceatward, and all, it may be pre- sumed, were set to the northward as well as to the weatward, of the situations which they were supposed to occupy, and the route which each intended to pursue. They can be accounted for only by the supposition of currents winding round the coast, opposing each other, and operatiuR as above explained ; for it seems clear that the westerly current from the Grand Bank so opposes the easterly one as to limit its operation eastward, and give it a northern inflection i thus producing the indi«ught into the southern bays of the island. It appears that the south-westerly current, over the Grand Bank, sets over the whole of Uie northern part of that bank. In a summer voyage, 1826, lat. 46" 24', Lieutenant Hare (30th Sentember) sounded on the outer edge of the bank, with thick blowing weather from S. W. j and, on the next day, in 45° 56' N., and 48° 6' W., had no bottom at 120 fathoms, with a very heavy swell from W.S.W., although he found that a current had carried him S. 67° W. 34 miles. Thus appeared, in close conjunc- tion, a south-westerly current, with another from W.S.W., where the edges of the two eptered into colubion with each other. (272.) The current which sets out of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, between New- foundland and Breton Island, also adds it'* effect to the current setting to the S.W. It is composed of the stream of fresh water which constantly sets down the river, and the water which enters firom the Labrador current through tne Strait of Belleisle. The current usually sets into the Strait of Belleisle, between the island and the coast of Labrador. It transports immense quantities of ice in some years into the Gulf, if they are not too large to be intercepted by the moderate depth of the strait, although this feature varies very much indeed in different years. This current has been observed to run two miles au hour with the wind from N.E., while at other THE ARCnC CUREENT. 3fil shores of n part of month of iieunim- notwith' of New- ttom its rater into le Banks. 9 paucity about 80 IV. at the transptHrt different t of New- iculars of ivigator," and was tpoeed, on oops, was Qth, 1816. i&vourable i weather Be, but at n after a jnce, with I6th July, cleen, was ly bepre- >ns which le. They the coast, that the limit its indraught t. over the 46* 24', mth thick W., had he found conjunc- es of the ten New- the 8.W. iver, and eisle. and the into the he strait, rrent has at other times it is almost insensible, and it is stated sometimes to rdn in the opposite direction, especially during the ebb tides with S.W. winds. After it enters tne Gulf, it runs 30 or 40 miles further, when it becomes dispersed and merged into the general streams. ^ The outset fh)m the Gulf is very frequently of some considerable strength, espe- cially with westerly winds or in calm weather. But its streng^ is reduced, or it even is retarded altogether, with opposing winds, which have a powerfhl effect on it at all times. Both these currents are modified by the tides, but in a way directly contrary ; for, wliile the Strait of Belle Isle current is ameliorated by the ft)od, and retarded by the ebb, the other is increased by the ebb and checked by the flood tide which enters the Gulf from the southward. The tidal hour is therefore important in estimating the probable set of these currents, which, however, it may be said to be said to be exceedingly difficult at ail times to estimate and allcw for correctly. (273.) Sabk Island has been famous for its wrecks, which greater knowledge and consequent caution have rendered less frequent. Its position and formation are re- markable, as it lies apparently in the strength of the Gulf Stream. Its dangerous character is greatly increased by the prevalent fogs, which are dense and veir con- stant. As is well known, it is a mere sand bank, with two parallel ridges of sand blown above the sea level, and forming a curve convex to the southward, uiowing liie direction of its principal growth. From each end extend long " bars " or shoals : that to the west extends 17 miles, and that to the east 14 miles, the whole extending over 50 miles. The westerly winds and current tending in the same direction are constantly wearing away the west end, and adding to the east, by drifting the sand of which it is formed and that which it brings to leeward. The wrecks, which now average two annually, have usually occurred from the effects of the S.W. current which we are now considering, and which, though irre- gular in its action, has usuaUy some effect on a ship's course ; added to this, as has been previously shown, the Uulf Stream is here found with much diminished force, and consequently there are some anomalies in the immediate neighbourhood of Sable Island. Tae best account we have of the streams is that given by Mr. Darby, who was superintendent of the establishment here. Mr. Darby has said, " On the south side of Sable Island, the current, in shoal water, with prevailing south and S.W. winds, sets rapidly eastward until it reaches the end of the N.E. Bar. It then imites and blends with the iSt. Lawrence Stream, which passes the bar in a S.S.W. direction, and runs strongest in April, May, and June. I have sufficient reason for believing that the Gulf Stream, on the parallel of 42^ 30% running E.N.E., occasions the St. Lavn«nce Stream, then mnning s.S.W., to Srlide to westward. The stron^rth of this stream has never been noticed, and three- ourths of the vessels lost o>' Sable Island have been supposed to have been to the eastward of the island, when, in fiEict, they were in the longitude of it." " Easterly, southerly, and S.S.W. winds set a rapid current along shore in shoal water, to W.N.W. ana N.W. ; that is, along the shore of the western end of the island, but not the eastern nor middle, as there the current, with southerly and S.W. winds, sets to the eastward. The natural tendency of the flood-tide is toward tlie coast. When it strikes the island it flows to the eastward, over the N.E. Bank, and to the westward, over the N.W. Bank, and passes the west end, in a N.W. direction, so rapidly that it carries the sand with it ; and the hills of the west end being hi^h aqd narrow, they are undermined at their base by it, and tumble down some thousands of tons of sand at a time. This the current beneath catches, and sweeps away to the N.W., increasing the bauk. So soon as this current passes the extreme point of the dry bar, it tends more across the bank to the N.E. ) the motion of the sea contribut- ing to keep the satid in motion i the current carries it to the N.E.. and spreads to th« N.W." (274.) In following the course of this current along the coast of the United States, wo have no very clear notion of its mean velocity ; but that it does run to the sonUv^ waid, we have many evidences, besides the temperature of its waters. It is probable m OBSERVATIONS ON THfi CURRENTS. that the rarftuw, at least, 1b obedient to the Taiying of the idndi, whleh blow over it, but it preserves its oonrse almost unimpaired and quite appreciable on the sorfiaee as far south as Cape Hatteras, after which its presence does not appear so manifest, ex- cept asasubmanne current. In (220.) &c., the presence of the coot water it transports is shown to exist, in a great degree, even dose beneath the wannest and strongest parts of the Gulf Stream. There is neat evidence of onrrent action all filing the coast of the United States beyond the Cape Cod peninsula, itself of remarkable formation. The long straight lines of low aUuvial shores, fronting extensiye shallow lakes, senarated from the ocean by narrow beaches thrown up by the sea, ail bespeak the work of the ocean and its drifting waters. There is another singular feature, too, in the more southern portions of its course. The long lines of shotus which project seaward from the Capes Hatteras, Fear, Look- out, &c., that is, in t!:e section where its surface action is not so maniiEBst, indicate some process going on which as yet has not been entirely explained. In a nautical sense the allusion to thu current is sufficient to guard against its effects in approaching the coast, or in taking advantage of it to work against the current of the Gtdf Stream. No particular instructbns have been issued respecting it, and tharefore this will dose our notice of it as an inner current of the Qua Stream. (270.) But there is another part of the ocean in connection with this where the currents are not stronjr or regular, but is peouUar. It is the part between the Ber- mudas and the coast of Georgia. There seems to be some connection with the fact of Cape Hatteras cutting off a ^rtion of its southern progress and the very irregular temperatures that are me^ with to the sonth-eastwardTof that Ca^. The cold veins alluded to on page 328 (234.^ are, perhaps, a portion of this ; but it certainly seems as if the cold water, after passmg under the Gulf Stream, api>ears on the sumce inter- mingled with the warmer waters of the Equatorial Current, and cause a slight dbrift to the south-eastward, and have something to do with that eastward tendency of the Gulf Stream (242.) in throwing off its floating objects to the eastward of its course — a fkot which has been attributed to itn being " roof-ahaped," a form owing to the greater force and velocity '-f its centre which causes the water along the middle of its course to be higher than the ?m certain mountain hcighls, but the whole country is covered with ice to a certain elevation ; * Dr. Rink " On the Origin of Icebergs," &o., Journal Royal C^graphical Society, vol. xxiii., 1868, p. H3, et uq. t It is a vnll-known fiict that all the ice formed from snow u^n the surihce of land, where the heat of summor is incapable of melting and preventing its p;radual incmose, has a tendency to extond and move downward, as water would do, according to the same laws, in case ram instead of suow had fidlen upon the surface. Those masses of snow accumu- lated in high regions of mountain chains, even in the hottest parts of the globe, gather in the valleys, which thus fonn the natiural drainage for the highlands, and being congealed into a compact body of ice, move slowlv down into lower and warmer regions, till ue in- creasing heat, by thawing them, 8ett 09 everjf ve$tig« of the oriffAnit farm of the covniry. A morement, commencing far inland, thrusts the outer edge of- this mass of ice forward towards the sea ; and when it reaches the' frith, it nay be seen to mnkKand to divetge and even extend out several miles. There the a^^enoy of the oUUeraied rivers may be observed in the neater or lesser rapidity with which the matter in a solid state is carried finrward to uie ocean. The massy omstt etiU preeerving itt continuity, proceeds from the shore, liofneliy the sea, oniil some circumstance or other destroys the equilibrinln, and iMealu some fitigments off the outer edge, which is again tnrust fbrward, and again detaches new fragments, thus continually renewing the supplies from the interior. ^280.) A tract or body of land of the requisite sise is, in the northern hemisphere, oniff to be found in Oreenhnd, and more especially in that part which Ues to the north of the Arctic Circle, where in the interior, beyond the inlets of the sea, the country inoreases in breadth from east to vest, and affords space for the original birth-place of these lar^ icebergs. Neither Spitsbergen, nor tne narrower parts of Greenland, nor the pemnsnla nor the islands wnich surround it, are adequate in site to produce the yearly excess of indissoluble ice which, yh>m that large and unknown eof^tinent, ia very slowh protruded ; and, as it seems, in a lesser degree toward the eastern shores of Greenland, along which the icebergs are driven past Uape Farewell, the greatest quantity going to the west, into Baffin's Bay. The friths or fiords, which, pierdng tar into the country, receive and transmit tne icebergs, are called ieefrithe, (281.) From November to June the water, in which the icebergs are to p>roceed to the ocean, is so covered by tlie ocean ice, that they are shut up in the inner ice fiithe ; but in July, and especially in Au^st, they are carried in mass by the current to the open nea. This is called the ahoottng out of the ice fiiths, which lasts till late in the autumn, when the continual easterly storms finally clear out the inner waters, unless the icebergs are intercepted by certain banks, on which they sometimes remain long aground. (282.) Icebergs consist mostly of hard, brittle ice, of which th^ white colour origi- nates ftt)m very fine lineal pores, uniformly divided through the whole mass, all beinp of the same sise, equi-distant, and parallel throughout the whole iceberg. This nni- fctm structure may have arisen at the time it was formed in the interior of the country from corned snow — perhaps repeatedly thawed and ftvuen. The white ice- berg is in many directions crossed oy broad stripes of intense blue-coloured ice, which is quite clear, and either contains no air bladaers, or, at all events, very irregular These blue stripes are several feet in dimension, and in them are generally ones. found " dirt bands" of foreign matters, such as stone, gravel, and clay, which the icebergs carry off embodied in them. The blue ice is, by thawing, dissolved into regular large grains, which is not the case with the white ice that forms the main mass of the iceberps. It seems probable that these blue stripes are formed by a filling up of the flasures in the inland ice with water — perhaps mixed with snow, gravel, and stones ; and such a refrigeration of the water in the fissures may be supposed to be an important agency in setting in motion these great mountains of ice.* Is would be out of place to enter into detail upon this subject, but firom the above- mentioned notice, as well as the works of Dr. Scoresby and others, much interesting matter may be gleaned. We must, therefore, consider them here as only affecting navigation. * Transparent ice, free from interior spaces or bubbles, is one of the purest substances in nature, and it is not possible to detect the presence of Uie minutest portion of air, or any sabstaBOs that may have been held in solution hj the water from whieh it ia ftmnsd. The steongest poisons, or oolonrtng matter of any description, are most effectually separated from water by the process of ft«ering it. This most, of course, only be understood to refer to those mMsen which are quite clear and transparent, or the spaces or vaoanoiee left in tho ice irill natumlly contain portions of the adventitious matter. Ice, therefore, is one of tho best souroes from which a supply of fresh and wholesome water can be obtained, and if theae hollowa \m wnnhed in firesh water, ice water will be found ptaferable to, and purer thnn, any other. \eeahd, a$ amendngr sea; and xtendout ed in the (ffward to ;he shore, rioln, and and again tenor. imisphero, the north le country »irth-p)ace JreenJand, produce mUnent, ia 1 shores of le gfreatest I, piercing proceed to ice Mths ; ■entto the late in the ters, unless 'main long' (lour origi- s, all being This uni- rior of the white ice- ice, which irregular generally which the solved into the main )y a filling pravel, and rased to be the above- interesting affecting snbstaaees of air, or is ft>mied. y separRted ood to refer B left in tho one of tbo nsd, and if and purer ICEBERGS, lOB ISLANDS, &«., IN THB ARCTIO CURRENT. 3f0 (288.) Mr, W. C Mid^ttdt to whom tho wday, in the ship Jones, on his passago fh)m St. Petersburg to New York, in Ut 46" 50*, long. 47° 54', saw ah island of ice, from about 1 mile to 1^ miles long, and from 64 to 70 feet high. When first seen, it appeared like a white cloud. In January, 1818, the brig Anne, of Poole, W. Dayment, master, left the harbour of Greenspond, Newfoundland, in the morning, and m the evening of the same day got among ice ; proceeded thus about 40 miles, and at daylight next mominff was completely beset, and no opening to be seen in an^ direction from the mast-heacL In this state the vessel continued for fifteen days, drifting with the ice about 60 miles S.E. by E., or about 4 miles in every twenty-foujf hours. The ice was now become very heavy, high above the sorftuje, and about 20 large bergs were in sight. With this ice the vessel drove until die was in 44° 87' N., and about 800 miles to the south- eastward of Cape Race, when, on the 17th of February, she got dear through the only opening that appeared L^ the horiaon firom East to S.E., all the rest of the circle forming one compact bodv of ice, as far as the eye could reach. The vessel had been shut in for twenty-nine oays, in the last fourteen uf whioh she drifted from lat. 40" 57' to lat. 44° 37', about 280 miles, or 20 miles a-m the west to the N. W. . In the course d' tUa 9M OBSBKVAttONB ON THB OtlHREIKTS* pasBBge tbie master declared that he mW more than 100 large lalands of the solid blue ioe» known to traders by the name of Oreenland let. On the 17th day of the same month, January 1818, the brig JPStnchalt of Greenock, soiled from St. John's, Newfonndland. At about IS miles to me westward of this port idle fell in with a field of ice coming down from the northward, about 8 miles in breadth;' and extending to the nortiiward beyond the reach of sisht. Having cleared this, Imd proceeded westerly about 260 miles, on the 20th, in lat. 47|°, she encoun- tered ti still more eztensiTe field, floating to tJie westward, in the midst of which was an iceberg { she cleared this, though not without ^fficulty, and brought with her a gale of wmd, with snow, sleet, aim rain, the whole way to Scotland. On the 6th of May, 1823, the Mountttone, of and firom Plymouth, was lost on an iceberg, on her passage to Newfoundland. The master and crew, with passengers, in all ten persons, took to the boat, without provisions, from which three only of the number were tidcen by a passing ship, on the 14th of the same month, the remainder Jiaving died of hunger ! Our next case is that of the jUtue, of Wisoasset, New England, on the passage toward London, March and April, 1826. The following is an extract of a letter from William 8. Shaw, the commander, to his owners, on the subject. His means of protecting the vessel, under pdrilons circumstances, are worthy of especial notice. *' On the 12th of March, at four a.m. (sea account), between lat. 42° and 44° North* weather thick and olondy, with squalls of hail and snow, we ran the brig in between two reefis of ice, jamnied together apparently in a solid mass, the sea oeing much smoother than usual, which did not alarm us ; we knew we were for from land or breakers, until we felt the ice alongside of us ; as soon as we perceived which, we hove-to until daylight, when we found we were surrounded by a solid body of ice. Around ua were 30 icebe^^gs about 100 feet high, and nearly the siie of Seg^wine Island. Finding the ice chafed us badly, we got out fenders. As we had run into the ice before the wind, it was impossible to get out the same way. At sunrise dis- covered a narrow opening to- leeward, for which we steered under easy sail, and firove her through. We were now in a bay, about Ij^ miles wide, the reefs on either side, ■ and large cakes of ice in contact with us. " The wind still blowing fresh at N.W., we kept her before it about 3 miles, but could not discover an oi>ening to the southward and westward ; tacked, and steered N.E. about 12 miles, it bemg very difficult to avoid the large cakes of ice that crowded thickly around ust " Finding there was no opening in this direction, and that the two reefe extended as far as we could see ; that there were numerous large islands of ice north of us, and an almost innumerable collection of small ones ahead, we concluded, at 10 a.m., to crowd her through the ice ; and having prepared fenders of every kind, such as old junk, spars, cordwood, bales of cotton, and part of one cable, we drifted her into it. 'We were now in the midst of the ice in a severe gale, accompanied vrith a thick snow- storm ; and had it not been for our precaution, in preparing fenders, the ice must have soon made a hole through us. At mid-day, old Sol deigned to show his brazen face, and laughed at our comical situation. This circumstance enabled us to take an ob- servation, by which we foimd oui-selves in lat. 44° 30' North, and long. 43° West (between the Azores and Newfoundland). << As our fenders were nearly destroyed, we were compelled to out up more of our cable, wooden fenders not sinkinar deep enough for the purpose of defence under water. You may judge of the diSSculty of crotvdinff the brig through by our pro- gress, which was but half a mile an hour, under two reefed topsails and foresail, the wind blowing heavily. ^ At one o'clock p.m., we suspended two bales of cotton under our chains, tnat they might not be carried away by rolling against the cakes of ice which we occasionally met, some of which were 100 feet circumference, and 6 feet thick. ■ " At one time wo were so completely enclosed, that I got out, vnth part of ths crew, and walked on the ice — a walk that few mariners have probably ei\joyed at that distance from land on the Western Atlantic Ocean. At 8h. in the evening, found the ICEBEROS, ICB ISLANDS, &o., IN THB ARCTIC CURRENT. 307 solid blue Greenock, »f this port ) miles in lig cleared ^e encoun- wbich was nfh her a lost on an isengers, in nly of ihe remainder ihe passage of a letter is means of notice. 44° North, in between leing mnoh )inland or which, we 3ody of ice. of Begwine ad run into Bonrise dis- l, and drove either side, ) miles, but and steered I of ice that & extended 1 of us, and 10 a.m., to such as old her into it. thick snow- 9 must have >razen face, take an ob- 43" West nore of our ience under >y our pro- bresail, the ttton imder akes of ice and 6 feet Murt of th9 yed at that found the Mirrounding ice much thinner, and the islands less frequent ; handed all sails except the dose-reofed main-topsail, which we hove to the mast to keep her from ranging ahead on the islands. '< At daylight, finding ourselves dear from the great body of ice, though not from the islands, we made sail, and steered E.S.E. and E.N.E. for three days, with a good breeze, and under short saU during the night. It was the opinion of^ all hands, that we sailed three hundred tnilea before we were clear of the large islands of ice f ' In July and August of the same year, 1826, H.M.6. Mngdaee was on her passage from New York, and fell in with an immense iceberg off ue' Banks of Newfound- land, drifting to the southward, the magnitude and sudden appearance of which iutonished every person on board. For the description of an iceberg seen by Captain 4. S. Park, 29th June, 1826, see page 359. In the month of March, 1828, several vessels arrived at New York, which had fallen in with islands of ice in lat. 43' to 44°, long. 47° to 49°. This was considered as unusually early in the season for such dangers to be met with. In this season, the briff Catharine and Hannah, Captain Lumsdsn, which afterwards arrived at Cork, Jacked up, on the 4th of May, in lat. 46° 11', long. 56° (near Banque-reau), a boat be- ong to the Superb, of and teom Bristol, for Quebec, which ran foul of an iceberg on the 2lBt of April, that stove her forwuxl. This mifortunate occurrence obliged all hands to take to take to the pumps, at which the^ continued without intermission for two days and a night, when a schooner hove in sight { and the captain proceeded in the jolly-boat to tocat with them to take the crew. While the captain was so en- gaged, the vessel being quite in a sinking state, the crew left the pumps to get the boats out to leave her. They succeeded m getting out a boat (the one subsequently picked up), and seven men got into her ; upon which they unhooked the taokl^ slipped from the ship, but comd not regain her, and it coming on thick weather, they could not find the schooner; thus the unfortunate men were left without provisions, water, mast, sail, or anything that would enable them to struggle for existence, save and except two oars! In this state they were buffeted about for eleven days, when they were fallen in with by the Catharine and Hannah. Of the seven men only two were alive ; and one of these survived only twenty-four hours. It is almost superfiu- ouB to say, that the only food which they nad taken was from the bodies of deceased companions. Captain Barclay, of the SriUiant, for Leith, from Quebec, which he left on the 5th of June, 1829, and narrowly escaped shipwreck, having fallen in with a heavy body of ice, about 20 miles east of the entrance to the Strait of Belle-Isle, in foggy weather. The vessel ^t clear r^n the 19th of June, after being three davs and ni^ts amongst them, and bemg obUg V> proceed Ij^ degrees to the southward.. On the 11th of May, 1833, betw .-en the Outer and Grand Banks of Newfoundland, the brig Ltidy of the JLake, John Grant, master, from Belfast, with 230 passengers, in lat. 46 50', long. 47° 10', fell in with ice, and while endeavouring to pass between two lar^ pieces, a tongue under water in the ice struck the port bow, and stove it entirely in. It is not requisite here to repeat an afflicting detail ; the consequence was, that the brig soon foundered, and only the captain, with fourteen other persons, were ultimately saved. The barque Perthshire, R. Simpson, flrom Pictou, Nova Scotia, fell in with a field of ice, in lat. 46° 19', long. 46° 40', on the 8th of June, 1845. It was about thirty miles in extent, and on its north end there was a ship, high and dry on the ice, with the crew on board ; but could not render them any assistance. (285.) The following are from Mr. Redfleld :— On the Ist day of January, 1844, Captain Burroughs, in the ship Sully, met vrith an iceberg in the Atlantic, in lat. 45°> long. 48° This is earlier in the winter than any other case which we have met with* Captain B. States, that he had met with ice near this position on the Ist of February! on a former voyage. In September, 1822, Captain Couthguy say an iceberg aground on the eastern c^^ of the Grank Bank, in lat. 43^ 18', long. 48''^ 30'. Soundings 3 miles inside of it, t£e 96B OBSBBTATIONS ON THB CUBRBNT8, dqrtii, WM found to be 100 hl^bema. In die month of Anfftut, 1827, the Bune ob* aerrov while crowinff the banks, in lat. 46° 30', long. 46° W., passed within less than a mile of a large iceoerg, which was stranded in between 80 and 00 fatiboms. He waa BO pear as to peroeiTe distinctly large fragments of rocks, and quantities of earthy matter imbedded m the sides of the iceberff ; and to see, from the fore-yard, that the water, for at least a mile round it, was fhlTof mod, stixxed up from the bottom by the violent rolling and crushing of the mass. On the 27th of April, 1829, Captain Conthonj passed, in lat 36° 10' N., long. 99* W. (probably south of the Ouu Stream), an usebeiff, estimated to be a quarter of a mi)e long, ajd from 80 to 100 feet high. It was much wasted in its upper portion, which was worn and broken into the most &ncifrd shapes. In 1831. at daylight een pub- rhiohbad heelabo- me in the 3, 24, 20, >n, passed tor apart the Pro* iNotinth* fDr. Bm luropeans. 11 tenable, of these extraetsj says, " There Is scarcely a doubt but that most of tiih Tesseh ftonr the West Indies and America, that have been misring, perished in the same manner as the MotmMone, icebergs having been met with some degrees to the southward of the Banks of Newfoundland in June and July. The commanders of vessels, there- fore, who have occasion to pass between the parallels of 36° and 60" N., cannot be too cautions ; a look-out man should be placed on the fbre-yaid during the night, and in fbgg^y or hazy weather, also in the daytime ; in additi(m to these, there should be one OB each bow ; and during a fog, the fbrenul diould be hauled up, especially in cross- ing the banks, where icebergs have been met with aground. Carenil attention, too,' should be paid to the thermometer, as ezperienoe has shown that it is an indicator of the vicinity of ice. Captain fitmUin oMerves that tho epproach to ice would be evidently pointed out in tiiose parts of the Atlantic where the snrfiuie is not con- tinnually chilled by the passing and melting of ice, as in the Arctic Sea ; and he strongly recommendi a ^riet f^rfy attention to the thermometrical ataU of the water at the surface, in all parts where ships are exposed to the dangerous concussion of floating icebergs, as a principal means of security. There would be very littie trouble attending such a point of duty ; yet, we believe, there are many masters who would not under^ it, but trust to chance the safety of their vessel, tfaieir own lives, and those of their crew and passengers. Many have made repeated voyages across the Atiantio without having seen floating ice, and, thwefore, become incautious. It is to these we would particularly recommend the perusal of this paper. The follow- ing extract Ailly corroborates C«ptiun Franklin's assertion :— ^ The morning of the 1st of August (says Captain Lyon) was thick and foggy, with rain ; at 10 a.m. we discovered, through the haze, our m«t pice of ice, a snuJI ber^, of about 70 feet ; we soon passed this and several others, but saw no floe or hrtuh tee, although there was every reason to suppose that a. pack was near, from the sudden smoothness and change of temperature in tne water, now at 32°, while the air was at only 34° Repeated observations of this kind have now brought to a certainty the assertion, that the ap^' proach to ice from an open sea may be ascertained by the sudden change of the thermometer ; and, acting from past experience, I caused the most active look-out ia be ke^t, on observing it to fall suddenly this morning ; yet this change first took place m a very thick fog, and we ran about 10 miles before the ice was seen.' Cautions. — " Captain Weddell recommends that, with a free side-wind, an iceberg or ice island should be passed on the windward side ; as by this mean the loose ice, which always drifts ferthest, is avoided." We may sum up the admonitions which have bem given by the following remarks: — . The INDICATIONS of an iceberg are — 1. A natural e£Palgence, or ice hUnk which frequently renders them visible at some distance, even in ue darkest night. At a; short distance this effulgence may appear like a white cloud, extending over, or nearly over the vessel's masts. 2. A considerable decrease in the temperature of the water, as shown by the thermometer, in comparison with the heat of the adjacent sea, and with the air' above. 3. The roaring of the sea at the base of a ber^, which, excepting in a steamer with its paddles in action, may be heard by an attentive listener, yman afar otL (288.) Lieutenant J. Steele Parke, whose ioumal we have given extracts from elsewhere, recites the following incident whidi will speak fbr itself an inculeatory caution : — ■ "June 29th, 1826. — A light breeze from the southward, with foggy ' Bankweather! as the sailor? call it. Steering E. by S. At eight o'clock this morning it cleared away, and I took altitudes for my chronometer, which made the longitude 40° 42' ; and, at the same time, we discovered an island on the starboard beam, 3 or 4 miles ofi'; Shortened sail, hove the sldp to, and sent the mate to see what it roally was ; for, although I had no doubt of its being an ioeberv, yet it certainly looked something like land ; and I did not wish to leave it in any kind of imcertainty. The fog, which had cleared away at eight o'clock, and left a beautiful blue sky, returned suddenly mm iiPiiiii 3G0 , OBSERVATIOlfB ON THE CURRENTS. wlm the boat was about half-way from the ahlp. The mate, an aothre, sldlAil sea^ man, had a compeas with him, and he apprehended no danger, but pushed on for the island, instead of returning, when he saw the fog spreading. Hour after hour passed away, and no appearance of the boat. Night came on, dark as the graye, with a cold, benumbing dri»ue, and a fog so dense that we coidd scarcely see across the deck. Mripaiid oMeot was to keep the ship as near the same spot as possible. All day and an mght we kept the bell t(Mling, and fired a great gun occasionally : a tar barrel was also Uaaing at the main-yard arm, but all was unavailing. I shall never forget the terrors of that night. I reproached myself as the cause of their destruction ; and I prayed most earnestly for daylight and clear weather. I thought daylight would never come ) but it came at last, and the fog was thicker, if possible, than the day before. The most sanguine now began to despair. About five o'clock something was heard, like the blowing of a conch shell, but so foint and indistinct that we thought it was only the echo of the great noise we were making on board. However, it was soon discovered that the sound was coming nearer ana nearer : but, as no person on board knew that they had a shell in the brat, we were still in a sad state of anxiety : for it might, perhaps, be a ship sounding her shell in the fog, as usual at sea. In a few minutes the plash of oars was heard, and in five minutes more the boat was alongside, with all hands safe and sound, thank Ood ! but cold and hungry enough. The mate tells me he rowed round the iceberg, which he thinks was about 3m S.W. to N.W. ; a gentle breeze ; lat. 34° 38', long. 73° 23'. — Current has set us N. 76° E. 9 miles in the last twenty-four hours. No npple seen to-day. June 12th. — ^Wind westerly; a nice little breeze. — To-day and yesterday very little gulf-weed has been seen. A spring now and then. Yesterday the current was very weak, and to-day there is none at all. On the 9th and 10th the sea was almost covered with weed, and we h«id then a beautiM current. It would {dmost appear that the weed (as well as the ripple) is but a fallacious test of this stream of streams. The truest indication is the temperature of the water. Compare the tempe- rature of the water every four hours hours, and the rise or &11 of the quicksilver will be a useful guide. June 13th. — Wind from N.E. to East; a strong breeze and hazy weather; lat. 35° 34'. — ^No altitudes for chronometer — ^the sijn was not out at a proper time from moon. There seems to be northerly current. The dead reckoning agrees with tlie observed latitude. June 14th. — ^Wind veering between North and East ; a moderate breeze ; lat. 36° 10', long. 70° 55'. — ^A few sprigs of weed seen now and then, and we find a little current to the N.E. June 15th. — Light wind and very variable ; between N.E. and W.N.W. — ^In the last twenty-four hours the current has set N. 66° E. 26 miles ; a few sprigs of weed have been seen occasionally ; lat. 36° 34', long. 70° 7'. At one p.m. got mto a pro- digious quantity of gulf-weed : the ocean covered with it for 2 or 3 miles. Passed through it in about half-an-hour, and during the remainder of the day saw ve;:y little : a cluster here and there, now and then (on the outer edge of the stream). June 16th. — ^Wind between N.E. and East; a fresh breeze. — ^The courses and distance, by compass and log, give the same easting and noiihing as the ship has made by celestial observations. Lat. 36" 52', long. 68 45' : we still pass sprigs of gulf- weed (still on the eastern margin). June 17th. — We have been standing to the northward since yesterday morning at eight o'clock, with the wind about East, and are now in lat. 37° 50', long. 68° 50', at noon. The log gives a true North course, and the chronometer gives five minutes of westing, therefore we may presume there is little or no current, for the latitude, b^ dead reckoning, affrees wiuiin a mile of the observation. P.M. — I 4m^|^y alti- tudes, taken this anemten at five o'clock, that the ship has made seventeen minutes 2 z 862 OBSx^HVATIONS ON THE CURRENTS. of eaatbg by duonometer once the sights I took in the mornuiff at nine. We must be getting into the stream again, for the ship has not vaaiie a single mile of easting, by fair calculation, according to dead reckoning. A few spngs seen to-day. June 18th. — The wind has been steady at East all the last twenty-four hours, and we have been standing to the northwara all the time. These currents of the ocean are puuling phenomena ! The true course and distance by log is N, i^ W. 50 miles ; and what course do you think we have really and truly mack by celestial observa- tions P By the ineriaian altitude of the sun, our latitude is 38° 7', and the longitude, by chronometer and lunar. 67° 46'. So we have made seventeen minutes of northing, whereas Ihe run by log rives fifty minutes ; and we have made sixty-four minutes of easting, when the most skilM seaman, without a knowledge of lunars or chronometer, would say we have made five dr six minutes of westing. This sweep of the current I fitncy we must attribute to the combined action of two streams : one, the Gulf Stream, pursuing its ordinary course to the eastward ; the other, perhaps, from the St. I^aw- renoe, running to the South. — ^Perhaps there may have oeen a southerly set occa- sioned by the proximity of the Nantucket Shoab (247.). June 19th. — Southerly wind, with foggy, miserable weather. No altitudes for chronometer or latitude. By the log we are in 38° 45' N., and 66* 6' W., at noon.^ Effects of the Arctic Current (250.) June 20th.— The same sort of weather as yesterday, with a moderate breeze from the S.S.E. By log we are in 39« 59', and 63° 16'. P.if.— Passed some weed; long and stringy ; not gulf-weed. June 21st. — ^The wind drew round to the eastward last night, and we stood to the north\rard. At one a.m. the sky brightened, and I was lucky enough to get an alti- tude of the moon, when shct was just on the meridian, which made the latitude 4r 15'; being 36 miles frulher north than the latitude by account, since the observation on the f8th. Tacked and stood to the S.S.E. There has been very little current to the eastward since the longitude was ascertained on the 18th : the log gives nearly as much easting as the chronometer. Lat. 40° 69', long. 62° 40'. We have seen a good many clusten of gulf-weed to-day. As we approach the usual northern limit of the stream, I am watcning the weed particularly to see how &r we shall carry it. — See (248.) for the northern edge. June 22nd. — ^The wind E.N.E., blowing hard, with a high sea and dark dismal weather (250.) ; but we got the meridian altitude of the sun ; and also sights for the chronometer tbis morning at nine o'clock. The longitude was then 61° 52', therefore we are decidedly in a fine easterly current. The log cannot possibly give a single mile of easting, for «e have been lying-to, under the main-topsail, in a heavy vale of wind, all the twenty-four hours, with our head to the southward and eastwutl. The ship has also been carried to the North by the current : our latitude is 40* 45'. So that she has really made forty-eight minutes of eastinff, and only fourteen minutes of southmg : and the log gives thirty-eight minutes of southing, and six minutes of westing. Making every reasonable allowance for the inaccuracy of dead-reckoning, we may safely say the current has set us upward of 40 miles in a N.E. by E. direc- tion (2ol.). iNo one con have less faith in dead reckoning thin I have ; but still it is necessary to attend to it, in order to compare it with the ship's true position : for I am not aware of any other means to determine the set and velocity of a current, in a Sile of wind, but bv comparing the common calculation bv log with the true place of e ship, indicated oy celestial observations. P.JH, — At nve aclock, by chronometer, we have still a fine current. No weed seen all day. June 23rd. — ^Wind E.N.E. Still blowing hard ; but less sea, and wind abating. Ship's head to the S.E. Lat. 40° 1'. P.JU:— Fine weather again. Made sail. At hall-past four got altitudes for chronometer, and I am sorry to find we have lost the current, llie longitude is 61° 57'. Tacked diip immemately, and stood to the northward. We have passed some weed to-day, both in large clusters and small 5|»«gS. June 24th. — The wind oame round to the S.S.E. in the night, and wo shaped a OBSERVATIONS ON THE CURRENTS. 363 me. We a|^le mile ngs seen loun, and he ccean fiO miles; I observa- ongitnde, northing, dinutesof onometer, current I If Stream, St. Iaw- Bet ooca- Ltndes for t noon.— eeze from eed; long oodto the et an alti- de 41= 16'} Tation on ■ent to the nearly aa ten a good Ut of the kr it. — See rk dismal ita for the , therefore I a single ry gale of utC The P 46'. So ninutes of linutes of "eckoning, • E. dii-ec- still it is on : for I Tent, in a le place of onometer, abating. sail. At we have I stood to and small shaped a eourae E. hv N., with a light breeze. The lonfttnde, by chronometer, this morning at dght o'clock, disappointed me very much: at naif-past font p.m., yesterday, it was 61° oi', and we have been standing to the eastward almoet all nisht. The log makes it 61° 18', and the chronometer, 61° 45' ! We have had a westeny set, imdom)tedly t and a southerly one too, for the latitude is 40P 9', and by the los it should be 40" 16'. A few^ sprigs of weed in sight to-day. P.M. — Chronometer (at five o'clock) givea five minutes of easting more tnan the run by log, since the altitudes in the morning at eight (the Arctic S.W. current felt). June 26th.— Wind South: a gentle breeze and fine weather. Lat. 46° 18', long. 60° 8'. No perceptible current these last twenty-four hours. Passed several sprigs of weed. June 26th. — ^Wind southerly, a steady 6-knot breeze and fine weather. Steeriiig E. by S. Lat. 41° 3', long. 66* 46'.— Ship has gone 138 miles by lo^, and 166 by chronometer. The difference between chronometer and dead-reckomng must not alwa^ be attributed to a current. Some allowance must be made for the carelessness of sailors ^especially in the night watches) at tJie helm, and other circumstances re« tating to the run by log. However, I think I am warranted in saying we have benefited something by a conent I make it N.E. by E. 10 or 12 mites. P.Jf.- The chro- nometer tells me (at six o'clock) that we have an easterly current. June 2'7th.— A moderate breeze at S.W. Running E. by 8. Lat. 41° 27', long., by lr..i9rs and chronometer, which differ very little, 63^ 41' at noon. Current has set us li 02° E. 26 miles in the last twenty-four hours. P.M. — ^Two sprigs of gulf-weed this afternoon, in lat. 41° 29', long. 63° 8'. June 28th. — Steering E. by S. with a gentle 4-knot breeze at S.W. — ^The longitude by ohronometer was 62° 11' tnis morning, and we made eleven mindtesby log between that time and noon. So we shall call uie longitude 62° 0', and the latitude 41° 60'. We have had a little northerly set these last twenty-four hours, 8 or 9 miles North, and 2 or 3 miles East. I have observed, in my last tnree voyages firom Jamaica, that we have always felt a northerly current of some strengUi in this part of the ocean, setting toward the Bank of Newfoundland, in JuT^e ana July. This, if I mistake not, is contrary to the generally received opinion (26b). Some weed in sight to-day ; a few sprigs decidefUy gulf-weed : they had all the well-known characteristics of the regular gulf-weed ; but there was some of a different kind, with long string^y stems. June 29th. — Long. 49° 42', at 8 a.m., saw an immense iceberg, which I sent the mate to see, as related on page 369. v; June 30th. — Light breeze firom the westward. When the boat returned this morn- ing, made sail again on the same course, E. by S. At noon, atmosphere thick as melted butter. JNo sights for chronometer or latitude, and I was in too much distress to attend to latitude or longitude by dead-reckoning. Julu 1st. — ^Westerly wind, with thick fog generally, but clearing away now and then during the day, so that I got a_ glimDso of the sun this morning for the chro- nometer, and also a good meridian altitude fur the latitude. I was even lucky enough to get three sets of the lunar distances. I worked them all separately, as well as by the mean of the three sets, and they differed only 2 miles. The lunar is sixteen minutes to the eastward of the ohronometer, but I rely more on the chronometer than the lunar. Lat. 42° 46', chonometer, 47° U', at nine a.m. Immediately after noon the fog returned with all its density. July 2nd. — Wind westerly. Light breeze ; 3 or 4 knots. — In confirmation of my Soflition, that a ship makes more northing than the log will give, near the Bank of fewlbuudluid, in this seasonof the year (my remarks nave b^n made in June and July only), I find we have made 28 or 30 miles of northing more than the dead- reckoning can account for satisfactorily since noon yesterday. The water is amooth, and we have been steering one course, £. b^ S. | S., with a &ir wind : by log we have gone 82 miles, and I think the ship has been attended toss carefiiUy as cue can expect in a merchantman. The chronometer also gives more casting than the run by a very great deal. It cleared up about twelve o'clock, and gave me the meridian altitude { * 9AA OBSERVATIONS OS THB CURBENTS. kt. 43^ SI*'. And It brightened mAh at three p.m., when mT> ehronometer gsv" 44" 6'.^ The oorrent ia unqveitionaUy gain to the northward ana eastward f264.). make it N. 61* E., 48 or fiO miles, sinoe nine o'clock yesterday, when the longitua was (bond by chronometer. Jufy 3rd.— Steering E. by 8. |8. Wind westerly, a nice Httle steady breese.-^ Longitude, by chronometer, this morning, at twenty-four minutes past eight, was 41" 44' ; and the hititude 43* 68'. Current had set us N. 78" K 17 or 18 miles in the last twenty-four hours. JW/y 4th. — ^Wind westerly, a beantiM breese. Running E. by S. f S. — ^It is my constant practice to take sight for the longitude two, tluee, or four times a day, according to circumstances, as well as sidereal observations, for the latitude in the night watohesi and by thesct means I think it is a foir conclusion, that I can discover, generally, the set and velooity of a current very soon after the ship begins to foel its influenoe. Now, the current has been setting altogether to the eastirard during the last twenty-four hours (N. 86" E. 10 miles), the lonsitude only will be disturbed, therefore toe chronometer will be our truest guide, ana she tells me that the current oeased in 44" 16', loitf . 38" 32'. This I call the eastern boundary, or rather the termir nation, of the Vlotiak Stream (214.). I saw some bunches of weed to-daV ; it was decidedly what is commonly called vulf-weed, the same kind that we met with in the Florida Stream, along the coast df Morth America, but it had not the same flourishing look. I eall them bimches, in ocmtradistinotion to sprigs i for the sprigs that we faU in with to the southward float liffhtly on the surfoce, but those to tne northward are more like bunches of oakum— bunches of oakum saturated with water, and almost stinking. Jiiltf 6th.— Wind W.N.W. A fine steady breese. Running E. by S. | 8. Lat. 41* '63', long. 36" 46'. I have no doubt that the weed mentionra yesterday was at the eastern end of the stream, for we have seen none since, and none was seen for two dars before ; and the run, by log, gives now as much longitude as the chronometer. I l»ny we may presume that the vreed was carried there by the Florida Current, un- less, indeed, we adopt the hypothesis, that the current has nothing to do with it : that it grows and ru>ens at the bottom of the sea \ and, when in a state of decay, the stems are broken off bv the agitation of the water, or some other accidental cause, and then it comes to tno surfoce. Be that as it may, the weed, in this part of the ocean, I have invariably found in a perishing state j and I have generally found it fivsh and healthy in the stream sweeping along the coast of America. [From the 6th to the 14th of July, when the ship arrived at the lisard, the Journal preHents nothing remarkable, excepting a current setting N.W. by W. on the edge of soundings. The current on other oays was scarcely perceptible^] Majob Rennell says : — <* It is well known how easily a current may be induced by the action of the wind, and how a strong S.W., a N.W., or even a M^R. wind, on our own coasts, raises the tide to an extraordinary height in the English Channel, the River Thamt>s, the East Coast of Britain, &c., as those winds respectivelv prevail. The ingcniouH Mr. Smeaton ascertained, by experiment, that in a canal of 4 miles in length, the water was kept up 4 inches higher at one end than at the other, merely by the action of the wind along the canal. The Baltic is kent up 2 feet at least by a strong N.W. wind of any continuance ; and the Caspian oea Is higher, by several foet, lit either end, as a strong northerly or southerly wind prevails. It ia likewise known, that a lar^ piece of water, 10 miles broad, and generally only 3 feet deep, has by a strong wind, had its waters drived to one side, and sustained so as to become 6 feet deep, while the windward side was laid dry. Therefore, as water j^zat up so that it cannot esoapo acquires a higher level, so, in a place whore it can escape, the same oiieration produces a current, and this current will extend to a greater aBSERVATIONS ON THB CUBRENTS. 300 Journal edge of or leM duitanoe, ■coording to the flme by wbi6h it i» produced or kept up by tbs Thflw ftujta are m> well asoertained, that it may generally be taken for granted, a certain degree of current will obtain on the Alantio, after a continuance of any unifianB wind, whrae the sea wonld be otberwiae in a placid ttate, and nnaffacted by other caoses. For it is mippoaed that the winda, where uniform and permanent, produce currents equally unifbrm and permanent. Hence it is that the winds between the tpopios, having a general course wastward, protrude the water of the Atlantic in the sanie direction, ma cause the flow of a current the same way, ^ess where it meets with land, islands, or shoals^ to obstruct its course or change its direction, or where it runs through channehi which draw it a diffierent way. There is reason for beUeving that the great currents within the torrid aone are increased by the influence of the moon, which draws them on tmm East to West (201.). One instance that currents are affected by this cause is, that in the Faro, or Strait of Messina, between Sicily and Oalabria, in the Mediterranean Sea, where there i* neither rite ttor/att, a current sets to the northward and southward alternately, for six hours, having every appearance of being governed solely by the lunar inflpence. Other instances might be given ; and there is little doubt but tbe power of the winds is blended with the attraction of tiie moon in forming the currents whidbt set westerly from the Atlantic into the West Indian Sea.t , (289.) SuBMABiMB CvBBBirra. — ^Another feature of ocean currents has been elicited in the experiments made under the direction of the hydrograpfaic department of tha United States' Coast Survey (to whole labotirs we have had occasion to allude in other places), and that ia, tiiat tiie set of the submarine currents doet not eorretpond eitker m velocity or direction with those of the surfiuse. Uow far such a singular fiwt will overturn our preconceived notions, it must be lelt for more extended remprks to elicit. The following is the account given by Lieutenant Walsh, of the U.S. bng Taney, the officer alluded to : — *' The Bur&ce current was first tried by the usual mode (a heavy iron kettle being lowered firom a boat to the depth of 80 fothoms) ; then, for the trial of the under current, a large eh^hlog, of the usual quadrantal form, the arc of it measuring fiill 4 feet, and heavily loaded with lead to make it sink and keep upright, was bwered by a light but strong cod line to the depth of 126 fathoms (the length of the line) I a barrega ynm attached as a float, and a log line fastened to this barren i and the rate of motion of this float, as measured by this log line and glass, as well as the direction, as shown by a compass, were assumed as the velocity and set of the under current. No allowance was made for the drag of the barrega, which was always in a difibrent direction firom the surface current. It was wonderftU, indeed, to see this barrega move off against wind and sea, and surfatce current, at the rate of over one knot an hour, as was generally the case, . and on one occasion as much induced wind, on nnel, the prevail, miles in , merely tby a Y several Ukewiso «t deep, become greater * Mi^r Bennell, on the Thwart Ohannel Onirent It has Airthermore been noticed, that the effect of wind in altering the level of the surfiuse of water is strongly exemplified in the reach which forms the sumimt-level of the Forth and Clyde Oanal in Scotland. This each is about 18 miles long, nearly in a straight line, ISaat and West. When a westerly gale has blown for some time, the action of the wind sweeps away the water from the West end, linking its surfiftoe, and aooumnlating it at the East end, where it escapes over the look-gates, m a stream sometimes 10 indus deep.—" Ed. Ph. Joum.," vol. vi. p. 71. In a gale of wind, in 1823, a part, or rtaek, of the Ormnd Junction Canal, was raised 21 inches. The eilbct of S.W. and loutherly winds, on the level of the sea upon the coast of Ouinea, has been shown on page 267. t Particular convulaiona in thd interior of the earth Bometimes occasion an extraordiniiry derangement of the tide, &o. After a late oocurrence of this nature in the Meditenranoan Bea, called by the Italians a iM-tarthquak9, the course of the tides in the Gulf of Spessia was totally deranged for the seven or eight suooesding days. But the ebb sna gcod •rsrs sensibly ssusireu nt inwrtais of a quarter of an hour, ludf an hour, and an hour, during that whole space of time. 360 OBOEkVATlONS ON TfiB CURRflNTS. as If ktioto. The men fat the boat oonld not r o pr o a s flKdamationa of mupriae, for it really appeued aa if oome monster of the deep had hold of the weight below, and waa walkug off with it. I will cite from the log aereral inatanoea of these ocperiments. «*On Maj/ 11th, 1800, in lat. 24* 43' N., long; 65" 25' W., we Ibnnd % sorfkoe current of one-third knot per honr, setting to the w'est, and an onder enrrent, at the depth of 126 Ihthoms, of the knot, setting W.S. W. j tempcamtote of water At sniilMse, 77° 3' ; 'at 50 fitthoms, 77° 5' ; at 100 &thonu, 73* 5'. The current fblt by the vessel on that day (as dedaeed fSrom the comparison of the tme poaition obtained by astzo- nomomicaf observations and chronometers, with those bv dead re(^ Current, the following remarks by Horsburgh clearly show : — ' The current is found »to set east from March to November, particularly when west winds prevail \ and df Cape Finisterre, and near the southern part of the Bay of Biscay, it sets mostly alone the coast to the east ; and along the east coast of the Bay it wts to the north, panuivt _ to the west coast of Fnnoe.' ' 3 A »70 OBSERYATIONB ON THE OURBBlfra. "AtMMMni Hid Vk» Otamcy Mataia th* iarCue Polar BtreMli iMtti to Imt* •MfeBdi bill bj oto olMMnrMtinit oil tiie doep^M tempenton a tubmmrAt* ttrMmttiSi wppeanto exut. In lien of the former, we have the current fiuniliarly known ae tlM Anioan Current, l^itacaasing so many distressing wrecks on that coast, and to irMoh attention has often been drawn by the captivity and r« proceeding into the South Atlantic, I will recapitulate our results in the noraieiti. OB8BRVAinoi» ON TSB oyiiiusirrek JSi I •nrmi Vw o«ewi whidi, pMwiff tloBg tb0 eowt «f BimU* rotan tkrm^ ittn Wilrir ward bind Frmmw foto the CwriblMBji Baa, •ii4 tlii«i»«e into Om CMw of MwMVk whmoe th« -wwter low* into th» Ghitf StsfHia, wWeh* »ltlM»n«li at flmt qwrow, ■9W •praads itd^, mroMMNi the Atltratifl, mul «zyMi4ti it* faro* in mid-ooeaff , vt, at tiiiiii» ttptm tlie Britiili Mea. Tbin great atpewi, qf jpodeiftt* t^nmnwtum «R 4m» «|MI ooMa wiAnrtbP Squator, l»e9Qii»«i imr? bwtod «« th» oon^t ofBrMtt i iaii4 i^poijty the coast of the United States retains, both in simuner and winter, a tenpaipaitvrp ip* while another flows beneath the waters of uie Gulf StrenEim, passes south, aad aaioglii ■ with the waters of the ocean, and affects the snr&ce temperature where it comes ia eontect with islands and banks. The unintenupted flew of this vast P<^ar Strean ia along the eeast^of Portuffal and Spain, and a einall part of it flows into the Baj of Biscay, caused by its striKing upon Cape Finistwre, and forms eventoaUy the RemMtl Current} another part flows into the Mediterrai^ean, in conse^uepce of the hi|^er lerel of the stream, when compared with the waters of that sea. the main bnmdi now pnrsnes its course on the sur&oe, until Madeira and the Canaries are reoefaed m its course, beyond which it is no longer apparent. But below the tur&ee, as shown by the low traiperature of the deep-sea soundings^ a submarine stream pursues ita way to the E^uatw, where tiie waters again eommenee the same round as bef« *' In the south portion of the space included within the abo^e limits, is an expanse of water whidi presents remarkable phenomena. This ia oaUad by the nama at tiie Sargasso Sea, and is noted for the quantity of the aqnatio plant, known aa the g«lf>. weM(/Wta«aart of the Bay of Ben- gal P Now, feom this oauae, and from the N>«. wmsomi driving tke current alow the west coaat of Sumatra, and the S.E. tmde hemmuig th9 water into the Bay 66° IH^true ; distance 354 miles, or averaging 19 miles per day. From August 5th to' August 2l8t, at 8t. Helena, time sixteen days, currents N. 6^ W. true : and the distance 175 miles. From August 22nd, at 8t. Helena, to 8eptember 7th,'in lat 3° 23' N., long. 23° 48' W., time sixteen diqrs, the currents N. IS!* JF. true ; and the distance 241 miles. There is thus manifestly a continuous cuixent traced by this voyage from the borders of the Eastern Archii>elago to the well-known trbpioal c\irrent of the North Atlantic. The paper then proceeds to trace this current across the Atlantic into the Mexican Gulf, where its final exit in the Gulf Stream proves that this latter is apro- longation of the great tropical current, which nearly encircles the earth. In our recent « Directory for the Pacific Ocean " (1851, Part. II., p. 1238) we have described the tropicial currents of that great ocean, and demonstrated that uiis great westerly drift becomes broken up and enters the Oriental Archipelago through the numerous ehannels dividing the islands, and thus becomes neutralised as to its west- ward set ■ We might therefore, suppose that the open spaces in tins archipelago will hsive a generally higher temperature than the rest of the ocean, and also be, as above argued, tiie inioal point of the great curent systems which circulate around the Indian and Atlantic Oceans. The tendency of the waters in the North Atiantic certainly seem to be a circulation around the central portions known as the Sarffasso' Sea. We do not require the sup- position of Mqor Mennell, that this is a hollow, or depression of tiie surfiioe, into which the currents run on all sides ; nor that of lieutenant Wilkes, that it is a raised area. This phenomenon of the vraters revolving around a central quiet space is also well exemplified in the basm of the North.Pacifio on a magnificent scate ; it is less so, but eqwilly clear, in the area of the North Sea. It is true tniat the southward tendency of the Arctic waters in the Labrador Current, across the Newfoundland Bank, is to break in upon this uniform circulatory movement, still it, is sufficiently symmetrical to form a leature in the great movement of the waters. ■ ■ f lliero is another current whose origin was involved in some obscurity; it is the aiti of th« M 'VttlVUt iak» in 60 rm liae to md again, ktie, M the lie Indian royag^ M rO'E., to B ontToits .86»E.,to id thedis- and the reather in days, and day. • omrents 9. 23» 48' lies. from the ;he North B into the r isapro- we have Uiifl great ongh the >ito west- ekgo will , aa above ■ound the irculation i the aup- rfikoe, tinfo B a raised Be is also is less so, tendency mk, is to nmetrical it is the h % MAGNETIC VARIATION. 373 Ouinea Canent (ISIO* ^^ ^ certainly, partly doe to the prolongation of the African Current from the N.W., but, by analog, we ahould soppose that it woold recurve to tile westward when it g«»t iidrly within the scope of the trade-wind* and conseqiieut tropical drift. . Captain Leighton arffoes that it is a continuation of the central current, which, after paaainff betwee. '^he Sargasao Sea and the Bermudas, turns t^ the south-ejast- ward towaids and into the Gmf of Guinea, blending with the current from the North ' and eastward. This appears feasible, but what is this easterly current P In the " Pacific Directory," 1851, pp. 1243—1247, there is an eaaterlu current scribed, whidi extends entirely across the Pacific between the latitudes of 4° and 10' i\ . This remarkable current would seem to be the effect of the Equatorial calms ; or, rather, 'that the water, being driven by the N.E. and S.E. trades, is here heaped up, as it were, and not being able to reflow over the adjacent drifts, like the aerial currents, assumes the form of a coimter-currents. The question arises. Is there a similar current in the Atlantic Ocean P By analogy we reply in the affirmative. But the configuration of the land, and the greater inter- ferences that the currents have from each other, renders this fact less evidont. Never- .theless, it can be fairly assumed that some portion of the Guinea Current is due to an Equatorial counter-current, which would set directiy along the African coast into the Bights of Benin and Biafra, as the Pacific counter-current sets into the Bay Panama. The arguments upon which the Atlantic counter-current may now be recognized are given on pages 283 — 288. if-wpy- IV.-MAGNETIG VARIATION. (294.) Among the changes which have come over the system of navigation of late years, none have been more important than the different relation which the compass now bears to the ship as compared with its place in former times. Rude instruments, una^usted, with errors unsuspected, and under influences de- structive to their accuracy, have given place to what may be, in some cases, over esti- mation, of this primary aid to the seaman. In its very nature the compass is impeifect and incompetent to show, at sea, the minute quantities, which are now disputed over. The consequence is, that it is made, like tne topic we have just discussed, ocnau currents, the scapegoat for many errors of seamanship and jud^ent, which a more intimate knowledge and therefore greater mistrust and induced caution would have avoided. (290.) Our present task deals with the geotfraphic distribution of magnetism, not with those local effects caused by the ship or its relations to outer circumstances, but to its position in the Atlantic. The other points, most important in themselves, must be discussed elsewhere. The features of the earth's mi inclination, and intensity. The adjustment of the compass in its an over-sea voyage across the little influence on the directive in commercial pursuits. The elements in navio^tion, and it the safe conduct or a ship. etism, as related to the ship, are the declination, p and intensity are very important elements in the I passage through the varied magnetic condition which Equator, conducts a ship through, but they have but wer of the needle in the latitudes usually traversed cUnation or variation is one of the most important correct ettiioation and appUoAtion most essential to S7» MAONETIC YARUTIOir. (SM.) Hm VMunm wkj th* oompaM ii uom p)«c«d iii«> much higlMr scnuideratum te ^rhat it wm in fimner j«u» are naioiimt. Th* yrant incrMM of tha we of ixoa hotk fiirihip boildiDg 9» well aa ia tlM fubrio of wooden ahtp*, and tiie eonaequmt ▼asuy inoifrased inflaenoe that the ship has upon her compasses has hean oor eidsi reason why attention h so imperatively demanded. Again, since the nniversal use of ateam, the oonr|B of a vessel in paaedng directly iSrom one point to anotiier requires to be mnoh more aecnrately laid, than it was thought necessary when wooden dupe only werensed. Another reason, which has arisen in the course of years, in that caused by the aeenlar variation. The accurate eovemment surveys, which have now been in progress for 80 or 40 years, in their earlier portions have, in many cases, remained as they w^!:re perfect I hitherto e of time, wed. It le secular been con- ( / le amount, ary shi^' shtmffe in en ower- lantioare irork, und Totheae ^nded,and that the ineoeflsary oientto 1 aaf tUiMet lC.tfitwH"",..... r»i ..-;.■ l^^^T"* I '*^..^ Itl> 'ticy>'l':l*i'i« ../ 'S E !A. • FAIOS «is...«i;c^«....,\ .....„;4L./.v:i....a._.._...i.,....;_.. i ..V-.- ,»-^ '. ,-,''' , /' / #/ '. I ^ ; '<< ''^"' ''VI '. A '''^•Vf""o2?f^;, ?'^; (^(M«^^« ltM«rimim«rJ iyi»l»«n,LO"n.in i^' . \ ' 1/1 1 aL ■£ \ ,v//w;i*',''[. Equator 40* h;,* :»o* 16* vf ^ A«nu • I ST WT r If A08AQES OVIB THB ATLANTXO. 87S WssrnsBLT MAoiTETio VAmuTiON AT Obxsnwicb:. 1844. 1846. 1848. 1850. 1866. 1868. » // e t 11 a < M o > // » * o » * January . . 23 10 22 22 50 56 22 60 2 22 28 6 21 49 60 21 32 47 Febmary .. 23 18 43 22 60 17 22 49 5 22 27 28 21 48 13 21 32 14 March .... 23 18 42 22 49 21 22 63 46 22 26 54 21 48 41 21 32 ai April Muy 2S 18 42 22 51 61 22 52 27 22 25 44 21 48 44 21 32 26 23 19 23 22 49 32 22 52 46 22 25 1 21 48 25 21 29 16 June 23 19 8 22 51 48 22 53 21 22 24 47 21 50 12 21 27 34 July 23 18 40 22 49 24 22 53 18 22 23 41 21 48 14 21 28 28 Ang^ 23 13 25 22 40 33 22 52 36 22 22 .4 21 48 31 21 27 24 September. . 23 13 6 22 48 55 22 61 31 22 25 43 21 47 9 21 26 43 October .... 22 12 62 22 47 65 22 62 11 22 19 1 21 46 21 21 25 33 November. . 22 11 fiO 22 47 38 22 61 46 22 18 27 21 45 ^9 21 29 46 December . . 22 49 41 22 47 61 22 51 40 22 18 27 21 46 64 21 28 40 (300.) Upon examing these columns of figures, it will be at once seen that the decreasing amount of westerly variation is very fax from bein^ regular, and that at tome times the variation is absolutely inermting. Thus the vanation in June, 1847» 22° 43' 0" ; in June, 1848, 22° 63' 21*, an increase of 10' 21". The decrease between Januanr, 1846, and January, 1847, was only 1' 38* ; to January, 1848, 1' 4" ; to Jan. 1849, it decreased 14' 6" ; and to January, 1850, 5' 51" ; the mean annual rate for these 4 years being 6' 44'. The variation in 1860 was about 21° 32*, so that it had decreased 1° 57' 60' in the 14 years that had elapsed since 1844, or at the rate of 8' 4" per annum ; but its mean rate at Greenwich is about 6|' at present. The needle also varies very considerably at times in the course of the day, the maximum westerljr declination is at 2 p.m.. This diurnal change amoimts to 7', 8', 9', and 10'. This topic is so large and comprehensive, that it must be left to other works. In a later part of^this volume some fiirtner remarks will be found. The present and the illustrative chart will suffice for the present purpose. V.-OF PASSAGES OVER THE ATLANTIC. 1. GENERAL REMARKS. (301.) In the preceding pages we have described those natural phenomraa of winds, currents, &c., which govern me track of a ship across the ocean. Tbe object of the present section is, to apply these principles to the seaman's practice ; but, previous to entering upon this portion of the task, we will make a few general observations upon great circle sailing, which has been revived as a new subject, when in fact it is one which was among the earliest principles recognised in navigation. This is not the place to enter into disquisitions on the working of great circle problems— that must be left to works specially devoted to nautical mathematics. Tiie excellent " Prac- tice of Navigation," by Lieutenant Raper, or Towson's Tables, published by the Hydrographio Office, will be found excellent guides ; but still a greater simplicity in the application to ordinary purposes of navigation is a great desideratum, and one whion, perhaps, we shall endeavour to supply at a ftiture day. Great circle sailing was known and acted on very early in the history of naviga- tion. It is more than probable that Cabot, Columbua, Mftgalhaenti, and all the went S76 PASSAGES OVER THE ATLANTIC. great navigators, were acquainted with the subject i* but this, it must be remembered, was prior to the knowledge of the principles of finding the longitude. When Ger- hard Mercator, in 1569, published a universal map, on the proje<%on now known by his name, a new era commenced in navigation $ but its true principles were not cor- rectly described till they were done so by Edw. Wright, in 1599. In this projection, as is well known, the meridians being parallel to each other, and straight lines, the latitude is distorted and increased in proportion as these meridians are more distant team each other than the correct difference of longitude would give for that latitude. Consequently a straight line drawn between any two ^ints on a such a plane chart will give the correct compass bearing, which, if maintamed throughout the course by a ship, will lead her from one point to the other. This course is well known as the rhunib course, and is that in univensal use from its simplicity. But it is not the shortest course, except it be due East or West on the Equator, or North or South on a meri- dian, which are great circles. This course, developed on a sphere, is found to be a spiral, and is considerably removed from a great circle or shortest distance if a great extent of long^itude is travei'sed by it. We need not pursue this subject, but an ex- ample will explain its application. £)2.) From a point off the Lizard, in lat. 50° N., lon^. 5" 30' W., to Cape St. 's, in the Bay of Notre Dame, in Newfoundland, also m lat 50° N., and 55° 30', the course, true, is of course West, and the distance on this parallel is 1,928| miles. But if a ship were to quit the Lizard on a N. 70° 20' 30" W. (true) course, and then graduedly bearing more westward, attaining the latitude of 50 45' N., in long. 30° 30' W., thence bearing more southward, and approaching Capie St. John's on a similar angle to the parallel that she had left the Lizard, she will have sailed over 1,893 miles, or 35 1 less than on the parallel ; but, in her greatest separation, she will have been 165 miles distant from the rhumb course. Therefore, it she were to take any course between this gfreat circle course and the parallel of 50°, she would have a less distance to traverse ; and this is the great advantage which the great circle sail- ing offers — ^that of a wide range of choice (in a higher latitude) without increasing the distance. Further, if she were to assume a course as much higher in latitude as the great circle course is above the rhumb, she will find that it will be of the same length as the latter. Thus, in the example cited, if on leaving the Lizard she were to bear away for a point in lat. 55° 30' N., long. 30° 30', and uien approach Cape St. John's, such a curve will be found to be exactrr 1,928^ miles in length, and yet be, in its maximum separation, 330 miles apart icom the parallel. The advantage of such a range of choice will appear subsequently in the remarks upon the transatlantic paswges. (303.) The great difficulties in application of the principle of great circle sailing to practice are, the laborious nature of the calculations, now, however, much reduced, and the inference as to how a course so much at variance with that which the chart will apparently dictate as the most direct, will place a ship in respect to favourable winds or currents. Still; the scope it allows to the navigator must be consid}.\ed as no mean advantage, evp.n if its shorter distance may not be an inducement to rigor- ously follow out its principles. (304.) In the following general sailing directions, the application of the facts in • It is alluded to directly in a work by Pedro Nunez, in 1637; again, by Pedro de Me- dina, in 1545 ; but his svstem was erroneous, and was corrected by Martine Cortes (or Curtis), whose work, " The Arte of Navigation," wm soon after, in 1661, translated out of the Spanish into English, by Richard Eden, and was long the text book of British seamen. Numerous other works, in which it is correctly and distinctly described, afterwards ap- peared, as one by Michael Coignet, of Antwerp, in 1681 ; an excellent work by Roderick Zamarano, in 1686, &o. That by this time it was thoroughly recognised is evident by John Davis, published in August, 1594, called " The Seaman's Secrets ; wherein is Taught the Thrte Kinds of Say ling — Horizontall, Paradoxall, and Sailing upon a Great Oirele." It is also described in Richard Polter's " Pathway to Perfect Sayling," about the same time, "is found in most of the old works on navigation. GENERAL REMARKS. 377 ;he facts in physical geography which have her ^eecribed in the preceding sections of this work must be left to tne discretion of tht imander in most cases. In fine weather and with fair winds, the estimation of the verious influences which a£fect the ship's ciourse are not difficult to make. But it is the adverse circumstances of a voyage that call for the seaman's skill and intelligence, and what has bten said will help nim to form a judgment of what is going on and how best to proceed. * But there are an infinite variety of circumstances which render it impossible to lay down any fixed rule which may be implicitly followed to advantoge at ail times. Therefore, in cases where a definite course is pointed out as the best to be pursued, and a vessel should be driven out of her intended route, it does not follow mat it is right to endeavour to regain that course to pursue it afresh, but rather it should be considered that a fi'esh voyage has to be Qommenced, and the course shaped from the latest point as if it were a starting place. (305.)^ A vessel under steam only is considered in the light of a sailinff vessel with a fair wind. In a certain sense this is true, as it enables her to be independent of wind or current. But it should be remem.bercd that the same contrarieties which a£fect and hinder a sailing vessel from pursuing a direct course, will also, in degree, be adverse to the progress of a steamer ; and, therefore, if a moderate deviation from the shortest route wiU lead her into more favouring winds or currents, that course will be most advantage to the vessel under steam as it is to the sailing ship. There is one circumstance which may be mentioned respecting a ship under steam as to how she is affected by the direction and strength of this wind. K a vessel be steaming before a fresh breeze, strength No. 5, at the rate of 12 or 13 knots, she will experience a perfect calm, while the sailing vessel will be only able to carry her top- fallant sails and royals. If she steams in the teeth of the wind, she will seem to ave a strong gale, under wluch a sailing ship could only carry close-reefed topsails. This virill be made apparent by consulting the table of the velocity of the wind on paffe 182. Now, a vessel steaming with the wind otherwise than directly fore or aft, will not feel the wind in its trtte direction ; for it will appear to blow from that direc- tion and vnth that force which is a combination of the rate and direction of the ship's course with that of the velocity and direction of the wind itself. Its apparent and real course and velocity may be found by constructing a parallelogram of forces — a well-known problem. It is for this reason that the wind as registered on board a steam-vessel does not give the correct bearing of its course, and it is much more dis- guised than it is in a sailing ship when close hauled, as alluded to in (12.) on page 180. As the steam-vessel, then, may be considered in a great measure independent of wind or cut rent, the great object of the past and succeding remarks is mainly appli- cable to sailing vessels. (306.) It has been well observed thrt the wind systems of our globe naturally govern the tracks of ships crossing the oceans, the trade winds cairying them from east to west within '\a tropics, while the anti-trade or passage winds will bi-ing them back again eastward beyond the tropics. If it were not for the intervening oelt of calms, sailing directions for vessels going into opposite hemispheres would be of the simplest kind ; but the well-known Equatorial emban'assments — " the doldrums " — generally make a very different matter of it, and cause many considerations to enter mto the problem of shaping a course. In the North Atlantic, these obstacles of the intervening calms seem to be at their maximum, and in the future remarks one chief point, now still argued, will be found to be that which has engaged attention almost ever since over-sea voyages commenced — where is the best place to avoid theHc calms and contrarieties of the Equator. The directions which follow will commence with our ovm country, although very briefly ; for it is presumed that almost every one who vnll use this book is either well qualiflea to navigate our own channels, or has more extended works on this point to guide him. And even in the remai-ks on more distant voyages very brief notices would gene- rally suffice, for most are now familiar with tne varied narticulars of th j hydros graphy of the Atlantic as it affects a ship's passage. Notwithstanding the vast 3 U 878 PASSAGES OVER THE ATLANTIC, labour that has been bestowed on the research into its phenomenal it does not seem that a corresponding advantage has accrued to sliippinff ; for in many cases the direc- tions of a century since will be found as useful as those based upon these refined inquiries. However, one thing may be averred, that passages are now made with much greater certainty than formerly, and even if the average duration of a voyage is shortened a few hours, very much has been gained ; and, by the comparison of a great number of voyagei* made under difierent circumstances, it may be safely pro- nounced which is the best course to pursue, and what tibe average length such a voy- age will be. 2.— TO AND FROM THE ENGLISH CHANNEL. OurwAKD. 1: For vessels leaving the Downs, and having rounded the South Foreland, the track is W. by S. ^ S. 21 miles to Dungenps(<, the depth 20 to 10 fathoms. From a mile off Dungeness to 2 miles south of the sh^u^ls off Beachy Head, the course is W. f 8. 24 miles, and in depths varying from 18 to 12 fathoms. In working down, and while to the eastward of Folkestone, stand iu to 13 fathoms, and off towards the Yame to 16 fathoms. This latter bank has lost much of ifis dangerous charsct^^r by the placing of the light-vessel, which now marks its N.W. face. Between Dungeness and Be^uill keep outside of 9 or 10 &thoms, and within 25 fathoms. To the westward keep Beachy Head light or Hothouse in sight, which will keep you clear of the shoals. Having arrived at 4 miles south of Beachy Head, a course may be shaped down Channel. This course will necessarily be much controlled by tne vnnd and tide ; bus, under any circumstances, the English coast should not beleft. if the wind be contrary, the best position with the commencement of the ebb is inshore. The flood tide, especially at its r i<^mencement, tends to the southward, filling the laf-ge inden- tations of the French coast before it sets fiEur np the Channel, and then it sets on to the coast south of Boulogne. It is well to remember that the tidal streams throughout the fairway of the English Channel set towards Dover while the tide is rising there, and away from it while falling, so that ^he Dover tide-table answers for the whole distance between the Lizard and Beachy Head. H.W, F. and C. at Dover llh. 12m. All this is explained on pages 251 — 253 ante. If the wind is favourable a W.N.W. i W. course for 63 miles brings you off St. Catharine's Point ; from thence W. by N. 94 miles to the Start. In working down do not come nearer the Owers than in 20 fathoms, and to St. Catharines than 22 fathoms. From thence to St. Alban's Head into not less than 22 fathoms toward the indraught. Between Portland Bill and the Start, if the weather be clear ajd favourable, you may stand into Lyme Bay to 17 or 16 fathoms. Throughout all this course, keep off until in from 35 to .36 fathoms. From the Start to the Lizard, the course and duttance are W. % N. 64 miles, which course continued for 46 miles further brings the ship 10 milet south of the Bishop Light. Throughout the course as fur as off Plymouth, the tides set fair up and down ; westward of this, they revolve in all directions, and must be most carefully attended to, as is also most necessary when to the east of Beachy Head. In case of bad weather or contrary winds, and necessity for shelter, the following places may be safely sought for. With the winds broad easterly or westerly, ships may stop ou either side of Dungeness, in East or West Bay, and also on either side of beachy Head, in Scaford Road, westward and eastward of the shoals on the other side, and near Bexhill ; and with westerly winds the Park inside the Owers Light- vessel is also used. Within the Isle of Wight there is anchorage sheltered from nil winds. Westward of the Wight, Studland Bay (near Poole) affords good shelter from westerly gales. The new Refuge Harbour in Portland Roadstt^ad affords TO AND FRO... THB EN ISH ( VNEL. dT "band > Jaai soutucriy I security ^aiost nearly all winds. Qood anchorage in winds in Torbay, Plymouth Sound, and Falmouth. Most sailors have hod some experienee of the detem .. (tanned ' oontrary winds in the English Channel. Some of the more remarkable of these detentions hav6 long lived in remembrance. The Bight Hon. Maurice FitEgerald, in some evidence respecting the Western Harbours of Ireland, gave a curious illustration of the diffi- culties in making way against these westerly gales. An officer of considerable expe- rience commanded a smul vessel of war belonging to the Cork squadron. Informa- tion was received that a smuggler was to land on the western coast ; he was ordered to cruise off the Skelligs to intercept her. He sailed from Cork, but was brought up six different times at Crookhaven, and, being extremely inxious to reach the ground upon which he was to cruise, he determined to sail round the north of Ireland, and he did so, and reached the SkelUg in a very few days. The detention of Rear-Adniiral Christian was proverbially known. He sailed from Portsmouth with an expedition for the West Inmes on Nov. 16, 1779, and, after hav- ing been repeatedly blown back, he did not ultimately clear the Channel till the end of the following March. It seems that the wind generally draws up and down the Channel more or less, and does not blow true as in the open ocean. Thus, a westerly wind in the offing may become a W.N.W. wind in the English Channel, and a N. W. wind in the St. George s Clumnel ; and the same with the easterly winds. By referring to (67.), page 209, and the illustrative dia^^m, the reader will see some exemplification of this in the case of Liverpool, and in (71.), pages 211, 212, those of the English Channel arc discussed, where it will be seen that the western predominate over the eastern quarters as 229 i» to 132. As a further illustration of the direction of the wind in the upper part of the Channel, we may adduce the following retwnS of 10 years' observations made by the Royal Society : — ' --' • '.'i.'.T ■ ' , , ! ". . '.-■•,'" ■ ■ ■•.■^:i.i.y:;^ :.i]\ Table op the Winds Observed at the Rotal Societt'e Apabthents IN London. Easterly. Westerly. 1826 1827 1828 1829 Easterly. Westerly. 1820 1821 1822 1823 1824 1825 102 91 101 99 81 97 1,68 196 181 189 1.96 188 129 115 104 130 187 189 192 171 Mean 101 186 Or, supposing a feather to have been abandoned at the beginning of each of these years, the mean direction and number of days the feather would have advanced is as below : — Year. Direction. Days. Year. Direction. Days. ". 1820 1821 1822 1823 1824 S. 86" E. N. 89" E. . N. 84' E. S. 81" E. S. 74° E. 66 92 72 81 91 1825 1826 1827 1828 1829 S. 75"-8 E. N. 68»E. ■ N. 68" E. N. 39" E. N. 67" E. 86 47 64 95 38 Mean for 10 years N. SS" E, 66 daw jkt annum. 380 PASSAGES OVER THE ATLANTIC, This shows how far the westerly predominate over the easterly directions. North- easterly winds are at a maximam in May and Jane. Oar remarks as to the lighthoases and other points of departure will he usefol to a ship loavinff dook to ^n a sea-r&te for her chronometers. In the geographical tahles, pages 7 and 8, the chief land-marks are given to the minutest accura^ ; and in the tahles of lighthoases, the position of any one of the lights there given will equally answer as a point of departure. Homeward.* The Bristol Channel I consider safer to approach than either the British or St. Georgfe's Channels. The parallel of Trevose llead, on which stand the two light- houses, has been generally recommended, and that on the parallel of Lundy Island may be used according to circumstances, direction of the wind, &c. In thick or dark weather the soundings will indicate when you have passed a line cutting Scilly and St. Ann's Lights near Milford Haven, and also on neoring the shores on either side. The south side of Lm^dy is preferred, as you can go safely close round it, taking care to keep the light in sight above the land; and as there are generally pilots lying under the island, you are sure not to miss them by pursuing this route. For approaching and proceeding up the British Channel, various directions have been given. Ist. Soundings. The great di£Scultj is that the soundings are very deep, and the same water may be got in different positions, both in latitude and longitude, so that a false position by dead-reckoning in the longitude, or in the latitude by the want of observations, is almost as likely to be coniirmcd as detected ; I mean, by detached casts of the lead. As a precaution against this, I would advise ships (particularly those navigating by deadyreckoning) to " seek the ground early," so tnat by striking the edge or the bank they may obtain, as it were, a departure, and then take frequent casts of the lead, add make with them a table in the following form, noting the true course and distance between each two casts, and carefully observing the quality of the ground, as well as the depth of the water : — True Course. | Distance. | Depth. | Quality of the Ground. And where a few of these are obtained tod set off upon the chart, one will check the other. Ships, as well as steamers, have been lost by " not stopping to sound." The prevalent winds are considered to be S.W. and westerly from May to De- cember, both inclusive, and from January to April, both inclusive ; although long and heavy S.W. and westerly gales may occur at this season, yet they are more frequently interrupted by northerly and N,E. winds, particularly in February and March. N.W, winds are considered to be generally of short duration. To approach and pass SciUy, the parallel of 49° 15' to 49° 25' has generally been recommended ; in place of which I would recommend that from 49° 30' to 49° 40', according to the wind, &c., as likely to be attended with greater safety ; and if the Bishop Kock or Scilly be not made, having taken every _ precaution to ascertain the longitude, once that its meridian is past, strike for the Lizard, and, if possible, make it, and thence proceed by the rules of the best coasters'. Lights can oe seen when celestial observations cannot be made ; and as the navigation is generally free from outlying dangers, courses should be shaped from one prominent point or u^t to the next, keeping at a moderate distance to ensure seeing them, if possible. The ships generally met with in this route are coasters, and they keep a good look-out, and are generally very anxious to get out of the way of large foreign-going ships. Easterly Winds in the Winter and Sprina Months. — Those winds are very destruc> tive upon the East coast, and often cause heavy losses and great detention amongst the shipping ; and, although those winds may blow long and steady in all the channel, yet at times they do not extend to the westward of Cork, but more generally about * Gonoral Notes on the Approaches to the Channels and for Navigating the British <"ih>«nn«>1- ^v rifttifain Richard Leiiirhton. TO AND FROM THE ENGLISH CHANNEL. sai the ed^ of Boundings ; I have known them to blow long and remarkably trteody in the Bristol Channel, and yet ships were arriving at Cork with heavy S. W. wtnds. There is also a kind of j>eriodical occurrence of easterly winds upon the coasts of the United States of America, which have been desoribed oy Mr. W . C. Bedfleld, and he considers them as distinct from the revolving theory of the winds. Whilst speaking of soundings and channel navigation, I want to strongly urge the use of Captain Sumners's method, as by it a single altitude, giving the line A A with a cast of the lead, or a bearing of the land, will often fix a ship's position with certainty, and its many uses and advantages will soon suggest themselves after a little practice. My reasons for dissenting from choosing the parallel of 49° 15' to 49° 25' to approach the Channel, are — 1st. A ship in this parallel will pass from 30 to 40 miles to the southward of Scilly, and will not expect to see it. I think this precaution attaches too much im- Sortance to Major Rennell's thwart channel current, which I do not consider to be a efinite current, but only at times occasioned by a combination of circumstances, driv- ing a great excess of water into the Bay oi Biscay, and the excess of tide to the northward does not require so great an allowance. 2nd. That parallel is the centre of the dangerous g^up of Guernsey, Jers^, the Caskets, &c., which, I believe, have caused more wrecks to ships bound up the British Channel than gettmg to the " northward of Scilly " has done, and the channel course trends to the northward, the difference of longitude between Scilly and the Caskets may appear great, but great errors occur in dead reckoning, and a ship goes far in a winter night and a westerly g^e, but allowing them to avoid those dangers. 3rd. That parallel has led to or encouraged the imprudent and dangferous practice of galloping up in mid-channel, with neither anchor nor cable clear, and trusting to celestial observations and chronometers, as though it were in the middle of the At- lantic ; and here we have the Conqueror, Iteliance, &c., sad examples of the effects of not making and keeping hold of the English coast, lights, &c. A great deal was said and written about those cases, but I consider that the amotmt of error in the course and distance from a position off Scilly or the Lizard, to place a, ouip on shore between Boulogne and Calais, instead of being in a position off Dungeness, to be an every-day occurrence in navigating such a distance in tideways and blowing weather without any check to correct the account, and neither " storm-wavts " nor " storm-currents" were required to cause them. ....... 4th. Foreign-going masters generally keep at too great a distance from the land, by which they not only frequently miss a sight of l^^hts, &c., which it is important that they should see, but they lose the benefit of some degree of familiarity with the land, objects, &c., which a nearer approach would gnve them, and which in the want of having to go into roadsteads, &c., would be found of very great service. 5th. It is not by keeping near the land that ships get embayed and lost. If it were, colliers would never be safe ; they are as much afraid of getting off the land as foreign-going masters generally are of coming near it. The general rule in coasting is to see every guide as you pass it (unless tmck weather should prevent it, and in that case strict attention to me lead until you find the next) ; this rule and attention to the set and duration of the tides are the grand points in coasting. 3B2 PASSAGES OVER THE ATLANTIC, 3.— TO AND FROM THE ST. GEORGE'S CHANNEL.* *' Many shipmaflters have been bewildered in St. George's Channel, especially in thick weather, from ignorance of the tides and want of experience; some, we are sorry to add, from want of due consideration, und others from not allowing for the in- draught into the bays on the Welsh coast, 'fhe light-vessel in Cardigan Bay is placed to remove some of this latter danger. " The writer of the following hints and observations begs to be understood as laying no claim to merit in their compilation ; his only motive being to assist and advise the atranger, and those who, from want of experience, have acquired only a slight know- ledge of this dangerous navigation." Special caution to the effects of the tides seems necessary to be inculcated of late. Some most lamentable shipwrecks have recently occurred on the banks on the S.W. coast of IreLeind, by vessels leaving Liverpool under what ought to have been favour- able circumstances. The unthinking hardihood of the commander who will place his ship's keel on a special course as if it were a groove, which, if most accurately kept, will just shave clear of destruction, and without taking into account the numerous causes which will horse him off his course, such as bad steerage, leeway, heave of the sea, and, above all, the set of the tides — cannot bo too strongly deprecated. And yet, as above said, some losses liave occurred which have most certainly arisen from a culpable neglect of all these particulars, and attributed to charts or local magnetic attraction unadjusted, or, indeed, anything but the real cause — the thoughtlessness of the sailor. On page 254 some brief remarks on the tidal streams of the St. George's Channel are given, which will do to remind the sailor of what is said in more extended works. Another point of caution most important is, the character of the lights marking its dangers. In the table their present condition is given, and it is sincerely to he hoped tnat no misleading alteration will cake place. Government official entangle- ments led to much conflision and unnecessary alterations in the Irish lights, which, as they were, or as they are, answer their purpose well ; but unknown alterations must lead to confusion, doubt, and danger. Therefore, let the seaman who has been absent, perhaps for years, enter these difficult channels with all caution. ^ 'Oaptain Midgley's instructions are arranged as follow : — ! ' ° (a) On proceeding from Liverpool westward to the Bay of Holyhead. , ^^ (6) On taking the North Channel, and proceeding thence to Tory Island, (c) On proceeding by the South Channel, and thence westward to the Ocean. {d) On proceeding by the South of Ireland f^m the Ocean to Liverpool, &c. {TTiroughotit these remarks, the courses, bearings, and state qf the winds, ^c, are to be understood as by compass.) „!». , (a) On proceeding from Liverpool westward to Holyhead. ;- Liverpool being the principal ai.d central port in St. George's Channel, and the pre- valent winds being from the westward, W.S.W., and S.W., during eight or nine months of the year, I shall supposo that a large ship leaves that port, with an adverse wind fVom the westward. Having discharged the pilot off the lightship, stand to the northward all the ebb tide (which, in Liverpool Bay, sets to the N.W.. and the flood to the 8.E), and, if laying N.N.W., or to the westward of this direction, during the first quarter of the flood, keep the lead occasionally going, with a careful look-out for the Isle of Man, which is moderately high, and on the south side bold-to. ■XT 1. V.„.._.1 A„~ T :.. 1 - I ..il.«.. Wostom Ports to tho Atlnnttc Ucean, and for Returning from tho Ocotin to the same ; by Cuptuin ThumnH Midgloy, of Liverpool, 1839. TO AND FROM THE ST. OEOROE'S CHANNEL. 883 ,e, we are Should there be a strong breeze and a heavy sea, the yeasel may not weather the West Hoyle Sands, on the starboard tack ; and great caution is, therefore, required when going near them, as they are bold-to and very dangerous. In thick weather the lead must lie constantly used, and, and the sands should not be aj^roached nearer than in 10 fathoms of water. The soundings along the north coast of Wales, eastward of Point Lynas, will pretty accurately determine the distance of the ship ftom the land, provided due attention be paid to the depth of water ; but the quality of the soundings will not indicate the particular part oi the coast she may be abreast of. The Ormes Heads are very bold, and any vessel may safely steer a direct course from thence to Point Lynos, which may be known by tne castellated building near its extremity, used as a lighthouse, anc[ its telegraph station upon the summit. Point Lynaa and the land to the westward ' "it is very bold, but the ebb tide hence runs very stronely to the W.N.W. and throuo^h the Sound inside the Skerries. Off the Middle and West Moiise the spring ebbs ran at the rate of 7 knots ; and all vessels should, consequently, give this part of the land a good berth, during light winds, at such times as the flood or ebb may be running strong ; or they may, upon an ebb-tide, get into the vicinity, or perhaps upon, the Coal Rock or the Skerries Platters. The Coal Rock bears E. f S. 2^ miles from the Skerries, and lies with the West Mouse (a large rock always high above water) on with the two beacons on Camel Point. By night, a red ray from the Skcn-ies light will now point out its direction. The Platters are nearly the whole length of the Skerries Rocks, and lie at about one- third of the distance between the Skerries and Carnel Point. Beaumaris is a good harbour for all ships, into which a Liverpool pilot will con- duct them, provided no licensed pilot for the port may be found ; but the Beaumaris pilot-boat is generally cruising off the chops of the bay, between the Ormes Haads and Lynas, or lying at anchor within it. Holyhead is also an excellent harbour, now much more sheltered by the new Government pier. (6) On taking the North Channel, and proCj?eding thence to Tory Island. If, after weathering the Hoyle Sands, the wind should be so far to the southward of west as to enable a vessel to weather the Isle of Man, it may be a matter of con- sideration whether it be most advisable to go through the North or the South Channel ; but this should not be hastily decided on. In the summer months the winds are more variable than in winter, and then it is certainly advisable to choose thai passage which is nearest to the destined port ; giving the preference to the North Channel if bound to British America, Newfoundland, or the northern ports of the United States. In winter, the prevalent winds are from S.W. and W.S.W., and these winds often blow steady for several days. Should the North Channel be preferred, with soiitherly and S.S.W. to W.S.W. winds (and it should not be attempted with any others that have westing in them, especially by a stranger), it is advisable to take a departure tVom the lights on the Calf of Man, and steer a direct midchanncl course, with a careful look-out, as the passage is narrow and the tides very rapid, but running directly through the Channel ; the flood setting from the northward toward the Mull of Galloway. With a W.S.W. wind it will be noccssarj' to keep the Irish sliore aboard, after iiussing the two lights on the Muidon Rocks i or it is poshible, in a strong galo from tnis quarter, that there may be sonie difficulty in weathering the Isle of 11a. The North Channel is well lighted, and has many excellent harbours, fit for tho largest ships, as Louuh Foyle, BclfaHt Lough, Loch Ryan, Campbelton, Lamlash, &c. t but. it !« ttd^ iMable for vesw.-lSi if "ossiljle, to take those upon the Irinh coast, as they can get to sea witli southerly and S.W. winds, when it may be difficult to get away from either Lamlash or Campbelton. 384 PASSAGES OVER THE ATLANTIC, Mter passing Tory Island, do not be too anxioas to make southing, but steer well to the westward, if possible ; for there is always a very heavy sea and a strong in- draught upon the west coast of Ireland* and strong westerly and W.N.W. gales are very prevalent in the winter. Although there are some excellent harbours in the N. W. of Ireland, they may be considered as inaccessible to a stranger, owing to the great difficulty of procuring a pilot in the winter season ; every exertion should, therefore, be made to keep off this dangerous and too often fatal coast. The depth of water, or quality of the soundings in the North Channel, will give little or no indication of the progress of the vessel, so that a good look-out is here the mariner's best safeguard ; the coasts on both sides being bold, excepting about the South Rock and Maiden Rock, both of which dangers are well lighted, but require a good berth in passing, particularly the latter. In running through the North Channel with S.W. winds, every stitch of canvas should be carried that the vessel will possibly bear, as these winds often fly suddenly round to the N.W. quarter ; and in that case blow so hard, for twenty-four or thirty- six hours, as to compel a vessel either to bear up for the South Channel, take a harbour, or lie-to in a narrow and dangerous channel for a more favourable wind. (c.) On pboceedino by the South Channel, and thence westwakd to ' THE Ocean. If it be intended to persevere in working down the South Channel, it will be the bast way to keep the Irish shore aboard by short tacks, should the weather be squally with heavy rain, as the vessel will then have the benefit of the N.W. wind and smoother water, should it fly round to that quarter, as is often the case. In dry or moderate weather there is little fear of a sudden shift of wind ; and a vessel, in such case, may jnake a long board toward the coast of Wales. Should it come on to blow from the S.W., with much rain, get the Irish coast on board as soon as possible, especially in the winter. Vessels passing up or down the South Channel with westerly winds will find a strong indraught setting into Caernarvon and Cardigan Bays, as well as into the Bristol Channel ; and this may be probably, in some degree, accounted for by the following, and, perhaps, other causes : — Southerlv, S.W., and westerly winds prevail over the Atlantic, between the Azores and Great Britain, during eight or nine monthtj of the year, causing the sui'face-currcnt in this vast space to flow to the eastward ; the tides in the neighbourhood of and to some distance westward of Seilly run nine hours out of the twelve to the northward, or into St. George's Channel, which, like the Strait of Gibraltar, has some resemblance in form to the pipe of a funnel ; and it is probable that, in gales of winds from the S.W. quarter, there is veiy little, if any, ebb from the western edge of Channel soundings to a position 15 Icaf^ues WcHt from Seilly, and thence to the northward, on the same meridian, until within 15 leagues of the South coast of Ireland : neither do I think it at all unlikely that a portion of the stream of " Rennell's Current," which frequently, as I shall hereafter show, runs with velocity to the N.W., may be diverted by westerly gales into a more northerly direc- tion, and being opposed in itH course by the Soutti coast of Ireland, finds its way to the eastward, ana thus contributes to raise the level of the water, and muke a strong tide or indraught into St. George's Channel. This stream of tide sets E.N.E. toward the Tuskar, and nearly in the same directoin, or a little more northerly, toward the Smalls, and rushes, with great velocity, past Skokham and Skomar, through the sound, towards St. David's Head, and nioiig the South and Kust coasts of Cardigan Bay, from whence it diverges toward Bardaey Island ; in the sound between which island and the main it runs with great strength. It is generally advisable to keep the Irish shore aboard in turning down St. Gcor^'s Channel, with S.W. winds and heavy rain. In the South Channel the load will im- part some idea of the {wsiticm of the vessel, or, at rate, will indicate, by ihe depth of «ratsrj the prob.ible distuncc of the vessel from the land. Tliu banks on the irish cooat, between Ilowth Head and the Arklow Bank, may be safely approached to 20 TO AND FROM THE ST. GEORGE'S CHANi^L. 885 ; steer well I strong in- J. gales are Durs in the ^g to the tion should, 1, will give -out is here pting about , but requi'-e 1 of canvas ly suddenly IT or thirty- nel, take a le wind. ... EVAKD TO will be the r be squally ^ wind and In dry or sscl, in such on to blow OS possible, will find a as into the for by the inda prevail nine month^i B eastward ; ly run nine which, liko ncl; and it ttlc, if any, West from 5 leagues of rtion of the ', runs with lerly direc- its way to £C a strong the same with great irid's Head, it diverges nms with ;. Goor^'s d will im- 10 depth of the irish ched to 20 fiithonu of water, and nearer should it be cleto weatiier, which, by-fhe-bye, is not often the case in this neighbourhood. When near the N.E. end of the Arklow Bank, and from thence to the westward, no vessel should shoalen her water under 28 fathoms, without daylight and constant caution. The lights on these banks require close atten- tion, as they have of late been mistaken, which has led to several alterations in their character, as before noticed. The tides of both flood and ebb ran directly over these banks, in a N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction, and in light winds must be oarefUly attended to. In beating to the westward, should a vessel shoalen her water on the coast of Wales to 30 fathoms, she will be quite £ar enough in-shore, and should tack imme- diately, for it should be recollected that there are 36 and 40 fiithoms very close to Bardsey. ShoiUd a vessel be caught with hard N.W. gales upon this dang^erous coast, every exertion must be used, by carrying taut well-set sail, to get the ship round the Bardsey, when she will have St. Tudwal's Road (which is well sheltered with westerly winds) under her lee, but a pilot can seldom be obtained here. The fixed light of Bardsey is open to seaward only when it bears frova. N.E. ^ E. to E. ^ S. Should N.W. winds continue blowing hard, it will be better to run for St. Tudwal's Road, on the North, or to Fisgard Bay, on the South, than to persevere too long in attempting to work out of Cardigan Bay. Any moderate-sized vessel may find good and safe anchorage in Fisgard Bay, by running in to 2 or 3 cabled' length from the Cow Rock, on the West side of the entrance, f>nd anchor when the land to the westward of it is shut in, and the rock bears N. by E., distant 4 cable's length. At this anchorage there is fUU 5 fathoms at low watei', over a bottom of stiff clay and mud, which holds remarkably well, and the ship will lie well sheltered with all winds, except those from the North round by the eastward to S.E. by E. or S.S.S. N.E. winds throw in a heavy sea. The coast in the vicinity of Fisgard Bay is clean and bold, and the bay may be readily distinguished from the offing by the Cow Rock, which is always above water off the western point of the entrance, and by the remarkable appearance of Binas Head (the eastern point), which, upon an easterly or S.E. bearing, exactly resembles the head of a large gurnet. Were the advantages of Fisgard Bay more ftiUy known, they would be duly appreciated. When the writer commanded the brig Freeland, of Liverpool, that vessel was disabled, by the loss of her sails, in the neavy N.W. gales which pre- vailed in December, 1833, and was obliged to run into this bay in order to save the vessel from a lee shore ; and in this place she lay in safety, at single anchor, with 70 fathoms of chain, during the tremendous gales that caused the Liverpool Lightship to part her moorings, and compelled her to run into the Mersey for shelter. From what has been stated above, it will be seen that this bay is of easy access and egress, but it should never be used unless in a case of necessity, and then wiUi a good and careftil look-out at all times, and everything should be in readiness to trip the anchor at the moment the wind veers to the eastward of North, if the weather 1^ not very moderate and settled. On weathering the Smalls, when outward bound, it is advisable to keep well to the westward if the wind will permit, so as, on advancing southward, to give Scilly a largo berth — say of 18 or 20 leagues. (rf.) On proceedino by the South op Ireland, prom the Ocean to Liverpool, etc. In coming from the westward, many navigators endeavour to make the Fastnet Rock and Capo Clear, as it is high land, and has an excellent revolvinfr light. The coast in the neighbourhood is also generally bold. But I do not think this is an advisable plan for a stranger, unless he has obtained good observations a very short time previously ; for I have known vessels to be detained several days in endeavour- ing to work round the cape against atrong southerly gales and a N.W. currenV**r unquestionably JienneWa. y ^', In two of these cases, one in 1836, and the other in 1830, two different shipmasterii 3 c 386 PASSAGES OVER THE ATLANTIC, ran with confidenoe for Cape Clear, upon the faith of good observations for latitude, . taken fortj^eight hours previouslj, and both made the Skelliga on the starboard bow. When steerinff £. by S.,with the wind from the southward and S.S.W., thick weather and rain. When the Skelligs were near, one of these gentlemen considered his vessel to be on the parallel of the cape, and the other (in 1839) thought that he was at least 10 to 15 miles to the southward of it. It may be proper, however, to add that the latter denied the existence of Rennell's Current, until he thus found the effect of it. In thick, hazy weather, it may be well to run upon the paiallel of 51° N., until the vessel geta into 65 fathoms or less water ; then steer E. by N. or E.N.E., keeping the lead occasionally going, and be careful not to advance into less than 40 fiEithoml^n)ph Bank, with wind from the south- wai-d and N.W. quarter, and the Tuskar is, consequently, very difficult to make, llie Smalls and Tuskar, on the opposite sides of the Channel, wnen seen in this thick weather, have often been mistaken for a large sloop with a peaked gaff-topsail set. No vessel should run with confidence up St. George's Channel without previously seeing one or other of the lighthouses on these rocks, or the land in the vicinitj, as the tides are hereabout very strong, and hidden dangers abound in the vicinity of both places, as shown by the charts. To the eastward of the Nymph Bank the weather generally becomes a little clearer than upon it. The course may be safely altered when the Tuskar bears North, and an allowance of one point or more must be made for the direction of the wind ; particularly if blowing from the N.W. quarter, as this wind not only increases the indraught into Cardigan and Caernarvon Bays, but it throws a heavy sea upon the whole line of the coast of Wales northward of St. David's Head. In running from the Smalls toward Holyhead, it is, at all times, advisable to steer a point or more to the northward of the direct course, unless there is easting in the wmd; and should Holyhead or the South Stack Lighthouse be made upon a oearing to the northward of N.E. by E. ^ E., the course should be altered a little, to bring it upon this bearing, otherwise the vessel may find some difficulty in weathering it upon an ebb-tide, if the wind should come out from the N.W. quarter, as there is a strong Bet (along the land) to the southward into Caernarvon Bay. The island or rock called the South Stack, distinguished by its lighthouse, is very bold, but, with light winds and a flood tide, strangers should give it a berth of 3 or 4 miles, as there is much danger of being set inside the Skerries, if this is not attended to. In light winds and a flood ti(!3 steer well to the northward, until the Skerries bear E. by N., then gradually edge away to the eastward, until the lighthouse bears E, bv S., distant 2 miles, when the flood tide, with a very little assLiauice from the wind, will carry a vessel safely to the northward of it. The Skerries may be approached by a stranger, on the north side, within a mile ; and when the lightaouse Dears S. by W., steer E. by N. 2 miles, and East 1 mile, or until the upper beacon on Carnel Point comes open to the eastward of the lower one, when the vessel will be clear to the eastward of the Coal Ilock. On proceeding thence with a southerly wiiiu, give a small berth to the Middle Mouse, u large rock alwaj'S above water, and very M>ld. On steering thence toward Point Lynas, tako porticular oaro not to idiut up the light if it be in tlio night. Should the light *iappen to be ACfiOSS TH& EQUATOR Ml t latitude, ward bow» ck weather 1 his vessel he was at er, to add d the effect ., until the seeping the lomj, when I the deep- ill he made id may be mce 01 the }at Newton ' Directory. «rford, and le eastward Itee is high, 8.W. of it. it can poa.- the south- make, llie this thick topsail set. previously vicinitj, as b vicinity of phe weather allowance •ticularlj if raught into line of the lie to steer itinir in the a oeanng to bring it ing it upon is a strong use, is very h of 3 or 4 )t attended ke Skerries louse bears !e from the lin a mile ; 1 mile, or lower one, ing thence 9ck always particular pen to bo •hut vpk distantly ran to the northward or N.N.E. until it opens, and heave-to or stand off and on lor a pilot, about 4 or 5 miles to the eastward of the light, or between it and the Great Ormes Head. In thick weather, after ptussing the Skerries, and at night if the light cannot be seen, great caution is requisite in order to avoid, the Coal Rock, and keep clear of the ebb tide running through the Sound ; for, upon an ebb tide, the land between Point Lynas and the Skerries must not be approacaied within 3 or 4 miles without a cens, when an unusual number of vessels come up on one tide, that there is no pilot-boat on tlie Lynas station, but it will only be left for a few hours, and vessels should wait with patience, for here a pilot is sure to be obtained. The Liverpool pilot-boats are sloop-rigged, with a square-headed gaff-topsail, painted with a white bottcmi' and black bulwarks, and ^ve their number connticuously painted on the foresail and mainsail. These boats have no topmast, but when upon their station carry a flag at the mast-head. If in the night tire guns oooasionaily, hoist a light, and show a torch composed of new rope-yams, unlaid and saturated wiui bright varnish, then marled slack npon a stick. Tris shows an excellent light, which may beseen at a great distance ; it is also much better and more noticed than a blue light, from the latter being so frequently used as a signal of recognition by passing steam-boats. The^ Liverpool pilots are under very excellent regulations, are exceedingly skilftd in their profession, and in point of character and conduct are not surpassed by any similar body of men on the coast of Great Britain. Although I have before noticed the necessity of an unremitting attention to Hie lead in thick weather, perhaps I may be excused for adding here, that such attention is of the greatest ihMortance ; as, owing to the velocity of the tides, it affords the mariner the only certam indication of his safety or danger, and contributes to relieve his mind in some decree from the anxiety he must feel whilst his vessel continus within the limits of this dangerous navigation. -<.'..ii ■;ruf-,>.r iMv ; K :^ ,. . 4.--0F SHIPS BOUND ACROSS THE EQUATOR. To AND FROM THE EaST INDIES, ETC. it is probable that there has been more discussion upon the route from the British Islnnds to the Equator, and on the best meridian for crossing the line, than upon any other passage. And yet the results of these inquiries aw to this, the great highway ot the ocean, have served to confirm in a great degree the opinions published in the early days of navigation, before an^ of the modern improvements and appliances had been brought to bear upon navigation. The directions which were given by M. IfA^^es tk Manevilletts in his great " Neptune Orientale," publisheanearly a century since, might be followed now Mrith- out losing much, if any, of the advantagoH which deep study and extensive inquiry into data lately acquired, would give to the shipmaster. There is only one prominent point elicited, and that has come oui of the investiga- tions undertaken in the United States, by the office under Captain Maury, so often alluded to in these pages. It is that a more westerly crossing of the Eqr.dtor than has been advocat«d heretofore may be pursued advantagsously during a portion of the year. As will be evident, this has arisen from looking at the voyage fhnn the opposite side of the Atlantic to that on which almost all previous directions nad been composed. Tb i configuration of the land about the equatorial portion of the Atlantic is peculiar. 868 PASSAGES OVEK THE ATLANTIC, and cauaea the diflBonltiea of a trana-eqoatorial yorage. The eastern pouit of the con* tinent of South America, the " great bugbear" Cape San Boqa6, as Maury calls it, and the land about Pemambuco, lyin^ in the strength of the S.E. Trade, and the con- sequent strong current to leeward which runs past it, were constantly the dread of the older manners whore ships made so much leeway, and were incapable of sailing on a wind as our modem clippers do. But from the improvements in ships and their rig and management, much tnatwas formerly insuperable is now quite practicable, and many of the difficulties of clearing Cape San UoquS have vanished uiK>n later inquiry. It is upon this fieust that A&ury bases the greater portion of his argu- ments for a more westerly crossing of the Equator uian had been usually done previously. The other difficulty, which also combines with Captain Maury's argument, is the intervening belt of calms and monsoons (which extends nearly across the ocean between the trade winds), which have a triangular form, the Imse lying upon the African coast, between Cape Verde and the Equator, and gn:^aally getting narrower to the westward, as shown in (46.), on pp. 198, 199, and therefore by crossing them well to westward they are traversed in a sborler distance, and theii- detaining effects are much less experienced. The oreat object, then, of all vessels from any port of the North Atlantic, whether on the European or American side, being to clear Cape San' Roque, it follows that often the routes are the same from all qutui^rs, and that the Equator is perhaps most advantageously crossed by all at the same point. This generally is the American argument, but, as will be seen presently, it not universally accepted yet. It is pro- baole that as much advantage is gained by making the northern edge of the N.E. Trades at a proper point, as by leaving their southern limit|, but this will be discussed hereafter. All these discussions of course refer to sailing netseh, those entirely dependent on the peculiar meteorological condition of the localities they have to ':r*^ ''f^^ji^fi f , traverse. Steatn-ahip* of course are in a different category, and the shortest distance la therefore their best route, provided it does not lead them through any adverse influences. Now the Oreat Circle route from the Lizard to Cape Horn is probably nearly the best that could be followed, even if it were not the mathematical course. It passes near to the west end of Madeira and the Cape Verde Islands, as is directed for sailing ships, and thence crosses the equator in longitude 31° | W. It almost touches Per- nambuco and close to Bio de Janeiro towards the Strait of Le Maire, the total distance being 6988| miles. Again, the Oreat Circle route from New York to the Cape of Oood Hope is a good route out or home. It cuts the Equator in 22° W. passmg through Ascension and just westward of St. Helena, the distance being 6877 miles. To steam-vessels there will be no difficulty in following either of these nearest routes, and they will bo only modified in eailmg vessels by the force of the trade winds, which will make the course through the Trades more southerly than the Oreat Circle in going southwards. Although a voyage round either of the great capes — the Cape of Oood Hope or Cape Horn — involves a more extended problem than that of the passage over the North Atlantic, with which this book especially deals, yet the difficulties and all phenomena which regulate the whole voyage are encountered north of the Equator, and therefore the tuscussion of the voyage to the Equator includes the whole difficulties, and what would follow for the South Atlantic is simple and easily followed. The Oeneral Inhtbuctionb for making the passage from the English St. Oeorge's Channels to the Equator may be very briefly summed up as follows : — or 1. From the Lizard or the Tuakar, steer "W.S.Vf. to gain ou omnir, to longitude lO" or 12' W. 2. From thence steer so as to pass to westward of Madeir. • - ' a-- ■ ACROSS THE EQUATOR. SStf lirthecon- J calls it, the con- 3 dread of of sailing I and their racticable, upon later his argu- lally done snt, is the the ocean upon the • narrower ising them ing effects 0, whether tllows that :haps most American It is pro- ' the N.E. 9 discussed e entirely y have to listance is ly adverse nearly the It passes for sailing uches Per- al distance is a good ension and se nearest the trade the Great Hope or e over the and all Equator, he whole ,ud easily !S nglish or Uows: — longitude 3. Thence to the west of the Cape Verdes (or inside of them in the spring, De- cember to April). 4. Thence to cross the Equator eastward of 30" W. (Each of these portions of the voyage will be discussed separately.) 1. Leaving the Channel. As has been said before, the Great Circle course firom the start to Pemambuco, commencing S.W. by W. i W. {S. 37° f W. true), carried on for 1220 miles, taking to a point 30 miles west of Madeira, passing 15 miles outside Ushont and 45 miles of Cape Torinana or Cape Finisterre. With every circumstance in a vessels favour, this course made good may be fol- lowed ; but, as will be seen by former discussions, that she will be affected by numerous causes, which generally have a tendency to place her to the eastward of her course, and thus involves her among the dangers of the French and Spanish coasts. A much more prudent course is at onne to make your westing after leaving the entrance of the chuinel, as time will generally be saved by so doing, and all uncertainty avoided. Therefore steer to the W.S.W. or S.W. by W. in Jine weather after passing the Bishop Rock or the Lizard, until the longitude of 10" or 12° be attained. By doing this, tne perplexing inJ9uence of the revmving tides which occur between the Start and the French coast, page 254, will be in some degree avoided. Again, the uncer- tain Rennell's Current, pages 262 — 272, will less affect a vessel, or if strong, will assist her in making the necessary ofi&ng. , , y'~^'--['' 'i.'''''.'-,',\..jljj]r^-^'^^^^y But the most important object, in thus early in the passage getting to westward, is io avoid the well known indraught into the EneUsh and St. George's Channels and the Bay of Biscay, see (142.), pages 270 — 272. This westward tendency of the wind and current would, if not properly estimated, cause some difficulty in weathering Ushant, should the wind become at all adverse, and the strong tides, and dangerous navigation around these projecting headlands, render them very unpleasant neighbours. It is probable, too, that the wind may veer more to the westward, as you get beyond the influence of the St. George's Channel in drawing it towards its more northern direction ; and again, as westerly winds have a tendency to veer to the N.W., if you give plenty of sea room, you can pursue your course a point or two free. With the wind decidedly contrary to making a course to the south of west on reaching the chops of the channel, it may become a question as to how far a more northerly route is advisable. In a discussion on the Packet Service about 1834, when a western port of Ireland was advocated as a better storting place than Falmouth, Sir Francis Beaufort drtw up a comparison of 60 passages made by the Falmouth Packets in contrary winds (30 outwards, 30 homeWards), and what would have been the advantege had Cape Clear have been the storting place instead of Falmouth, the desideratum being of course the safe weathering of Ushant and Cape Finisterre. Of course this was pre- vious to the Steam Mail Service, and when then the Falmouth Packets were in a high stete of efficiency, that is, from 1826 to 1830. Sir Francis Beaufort constructe the diagrams by laying off the tracks from Cape Clear of the vessels as if sailing with the same wind as that experienced by them in sailing from Falmouth. The average time occupied by the 30 outward packets from Fumouth to lat. 42° 40', off Cape Finisterre, was 9 days 12 hours, varying from 12 days to 6 days. Had the packeto started from Cape Clear, they could have arrived at tne same parallel in a mean time of 4 days and 21 hours, thus showing a saving of 4 days 11 hours, or nearly one-half. In the homeward route, the same mode of calculation shows that 4 days 9 hours may be saved in the same manner. Now, as Gape Clear is about the same distance from Madeira as the Land's End, it is clear that a vessel is in no worse position by approaching it. Crookhaven, or some of the harbours on the S.W. of Ireland, will afiord her sheller as well as the S.W. of England. This is said in oa^) the vessel encounters strong head winds which will not allow her to make southing, which after all is the grand object, in order that you may quickly gain the S.E. trade. If the ship will not lay better than N.W. on the port 890 PASSAGES OVER THE ATLANTIC, taek, perhaps it is better to make a short 1)oard until the wind veers a little either way. If yon are well to the westward of Ushant, and the weather moderate, sup- posing the ship will lay South or S. by W., you may safely stand on to the South- ward; but should the weather be threatening, and a westerly gale apprehended, it will be prudent to keep the channel open, rather than by beating to windward, you g^t past Ushant, and thus embayed on the dangerous French coast, where also the wind is liable to shift close in shore. By keeping the English Channel under your lee, should you not be able to maintain your course, you may then run for sdme shelter. 2. Passage to Madeira. When the ship is sufficiently to windward of Ushant or Cape Finisterre, there can be no difficulty in making ror Madeira, so as to pass within sight of it to the westward. •Cape Finisterre should be passed at a considerable distance, or, at least, the course should be so shaped as to do so, for fear of the prevalent drift Avhich is frequently powerful along tne north coast of Spain, '\nd the effect of the prevalent westerly winds should horse the vessel to leeward and into the Bay of Biscay, which is espe- ciidlv to be avoided. The prominent headlands of the coast of Spain being now marked by a fine system of lighthouses, there is less danger of mistaking the country than there was formerly, as in many parte it is difficult to make out tiie bays and inlete, and of course it is a most dangerous iron-bound and lee-shore. . - <:. By sighting Madeira an opportunity is afforded of testing the rate of the chrono- meters, as a sufficient interval will have elapsed to gain a sea rate, and having it thus early in the voyage will avoid much uncertainty in the subsequent passage. It may be stated that any point of the island will answer equally for giving a longitude. The table on page 42 will giVe the position of the most prominent point, oe the descrip- tion and chart hereafter will give farther information. It is better to pass 7 w 8 leagues off Madeira, as the winds are generally steadier, particularly in wmter. In November, December, and January, westerly gales pre- vail, which produce eddy winds and severe squalls near the land, occasioned by the mountains obstructing tne regular course of the gales, and besides the weather here is very precarious. However, notwithstanding all that has been said in former directions as to passing witMn sight of Madeira and the Cape Verdes, it is a question whether a more westerly course to the equator may not be attended with some advantages. There is some reason to think that the nearer the land the more baffling an(i uncertain the wind is, and, as its tendency is to the westward, it is argued that some gain of time has been found to arise from crossing the parallel of 30° (as well as the equator) on a more westerly meridian than that of Madeira. The following abstract was made by Lieut. Maury in the former editions of his " Sailing Directory" (in 1855), and showed the number of days (average) that it took from lat. 30° to the equator in the several crossings by 86 vessels : — East of 16° 24 days from the mean of . ** Between le" and 17' 23 „ •••#••••• ■?*->^* ',M' ir 18" 19° 20° 21° 22° 18°, 19°. 20°. 21°. 22". 23°. 24 24 23 22 21 18 6 ■■-'■?"' 14 ■■ ■ -' 22 r'/^'^- 19 V • 6 7 6 Thus, as the place of crossing the parallel of 30° is further and further to the west, so is the average passage thence to the equator diminished. East of the meridian of 19°, the avereige passage, as far as the data of these tables may be relied on, is about 24 days. Tc the west of 19° the ratio of deoreaae as to length of passage, aooordiug to this showing, is most rapid. >,i*;M. -v - i., j '.j'T Nnw *\it *VUI1U winds aloi"* ibi*" route are an ssaet co^t€S^part in the Pacific, on the route from Cf^lifomia to Peru, Chili, or Cape Horn : for the for the deserto of Mexico and the United States hold very nearly the same relation ACROSS THE EQUATOB. 801 little ciither aerate, sup- the Soutn- iprehended, •windward, where also ,nnel under m for sdme 3, there can r it to the the course fi-equently it westerly ich is espe- being now bhe country le bays and the chrono- iring it thus fe. It may l^tude. The iJie desorip* ly steadier, gales pre- )ned by the eather here I to passing ler a more There is certain the ne gain of ell as the Qg abstract ■ (in 1856), equator in e li'j «j; 14 i2 9 . ■ 6 ... % 7 ^-"■'' 6 a the west, aeridian of n, is about aooording _.^ « A CUV auuKu a : for tho ne relation to the N.E. tradfipwindi of the Pacific that the deserts of Afirica do io ibmi of th« Atlantic ; and though qjuick runs may be made now and then, both along the west American and west ^^fncan coast, yet, in the long run, experience in the racifio baa amply proved that the navigator saves time by keeping off from the coast, and so I ? ^prehend it will be here. Indeed, experience in the Atlantic goes directly to show u>e same thing, and to place the opinion almost out of the category of conjecture, for this is the very point upon which the advantagefl of the new route from the United States to the une are based. The passage to the line from England and the Enslish Channel ought not, on th9 average, to b« as long by several days as it is fix>m the United States. In the first place, the distance tmm the Land's End ia not so great by two or three days' sail ; and, in the next place, the winds are fairer. Vessels oound to the line from any of th? Atlantic ports of this cotmtry have to sail close hauled most of the way, but from Europe they go free. If the performance of the ships whose abstract logs I have, and which furnish the data for these tablfi<), be a fair specimen of what ships generally do on this route, and I suppose it is rather above than below, it would appear that the average passage the jeaa round to the line fr«m England and the English Channel is 36 days ; the montktg giving the longest averages, such as they are, being January and March 47 da^, August 46, and June 39. The first two are evidently too long, their averages being determined from only two or three passages each. The average to the line from the United States has been brought down from 41 to 31 days ; and the average from the British Isles and English Channel can be, I am encouraged to believe, reduced to less than the American average ; and the observation, to be contained in the abstract logs that shall be kept for us during the next year or two, will, probably, enable us to decide this question. In the meatltime, the route which I ventured to recommend — ^not, however, without some misgivings, arising from the want of more ample data — ^is the same, very nearly, for all vessels from whatever part of Europe. They should aim, whenever the wind will uUow the option, to cross the parallel of 30° N., between the meridians of 25° and 30° W., but should not contend with adverse winds for it ; having reached this crossing, their course thence is due south for the line, between the same meridians. In summer and fall they should enter the southern hemisphere about the meridian of 30°, but during the rest of the year they will generally not be forced so far over to the west, though they should not care to go east of longitude :^5°. Vessels from as far north as the English Channel should aim to cross the parallel of 40°, between the meridians of 20° and 25° ; and for this reason — ^besides that of winds a little more propitious — ^viz. : In crossing ' :e calms of Cancer the navigator wants to be in such a position that he may alwciys se able to go on that tack which will cany him most rapidly across this belt of calms. In other words, he wants to be ia that position where it is immaterial to him whether he be making easting or westing, Erovided he be on the tack which will give him the most southing. For this reason e should aim to enter the calm belt between longpitude 25°' and 30 W. The average crossing place of 30°, at present, is about the meridian of 19° W.* If the comparison of more extended observation and experience should bear out this reasoning, that even a few hours are saved on the average in the trans-equatorial voyage, of course it behoves every commander to follow out this line of procedure i but it will be seen there is some doubt as yet as to whether the advantages of this western route have been fiilly demonstrated, and we shall give the opinions of others presently on this point. -C:'^ 3. West, ob East of the Cape Verde Islands. If the line of reasoning held by Capt. Maury, as above quoted, be valid, there can * Maury, 8th Edition, vol. ii., pp. 366, 367. 892 PASSAGES OVER THE ATLANTIC, be no doubt as to which route to puQsoe, inside or outside the Cape Verdes. But as'a large number of vessels have usea tke inside route, evidently without much detriment to making a goodj>a8sage, it will require a large amount of experience to subvert entirely vxe practice asnitherto followed. We are greatly indebted to our Dutch neighbours for their zealous endeavours to improve hydroffraphy in the direction pointed out in the Brussels Conference. The Boyal Nedierumds Meteorolog^ical Institute and the Meteorological Institute of Utrecht have done good service to the mariner in their excellent publications. The latter office has published a table of the times and crossings of 455 Dutch vessels from the Channel to the line, which we will give pv >p ve oovo oe>o 00 eo^i \o oe\o oeso -J oe^j \o oo o --J oo oo o 00 » ' «rt * * * d\M ■ 4» J d\ ■ 00 d\4» (rt * ' t« -i ' ' ? n 5? 7 mmmmmmi^mmmOmOmmmOm 0«m m li m m ;rt(rtU>4^Cn;rt4^4ku>'^ w.(k^M.^.^lMOi^^^(rt.^^ '~J(rtO^MWM(rtW-iLn "^i ' tioi '•JvA '^I'^J ~J -1 0\ 9\->l -J ON Os^rt On p\>a On On OS ONirt -^ On^i On On 0\>-i tiwn-J 'M(rtW~i>-iCt 'M^M(n'-iM 'in 'M(rtW MMri^Ml^tOtOMtOMtatOtStOtOtOtOtStSMMWCOtO O ■!>; >-^*i q*i ",*-, O*; O-f; 0.4>> m4>^ 0-I>>, O-t-^ q4>: O, •^ ^ W ' ' On On ' ^ ooln M 4>^ OnVn m Vn «ecio '-4 'bstswwi-^ 'ui9 'tototSMOtM 'cncn-4 OU>ONOONWaN«lnM(rtOWN ■>i •>> ^ 00 ' oovi * "on" 'wwH"J»"d' -._r__(_«._QV»wON Onoo->i 0<^ 0(M O -t^ " ^ OU> UtM X'^ Mb4 OUIvOUtNCM O 4^ M -^ ^"^ OONO NONONOnOMOOMOM ' -J ^(rt M M M 00 M ebtrt M W (rt (rt (rt ~J (rt M (^ M M^tS><^H^>f>-Oia>0>el^MCO(Ol(^hStOCO W W M W M M(rtU>4^M(«<(^(^ O ■-; H >^(*^ M ' -J (rt ■>J * (rt eb eb(rt m ' oo m '>j (^ ^ («i r-« I r^ I f=^ I r^ I r^ I f-^ I f=« I i^ I r.^ I MMMMMMMMMMUMCdMMWMMCOCiSeiSeoCdM bscdOMtotiaSotcnM^cotocdtotoi-^apeB^Oitai^o •^ d» CB d> )^ «^ M t« i(^ ob en «e o< ^ H^ ' ob d> a «n eo «6• independently atrived at. " We have ret to learn if the most favourable oroaeing be wntward of 26* W. for English vesseu out- ward-bound to the East. The paaaage by the eastward of the Cape Verdes haa )Men itrong-ly recommended, as shown by the preceding extracts, and it is certainly worth attention that the best passage recorded in that article was made by a vessel (the Lady JRafflet), which ran down her southing eastward of ti e Cape Verdes." Captain H. Toynbee, F.R.A.S., has also discussed the westerly crossing of the Lino, as tried b^ him in his well-known ship, the Oloriana.^ This voyage was made in October, 1858, and the Line was crossed in 38^° W. " On the 2nd October, 1858, the Gloriana was in lat. 17° 43' N., long. 26" 29' W. From this position, being West of the Cape Verde Islands, / endeavoured to make a true South course when the wind was fair, and preferred the tack which gave the most southing when it was foul. " From the 2nd to the 7th we went on well, for on the latter date we were in lat. T 29' N., long. 27° 62' W., having been driven by the wind and about thirty-eight miles of current eighty-three miles Airther West. From the 7th to liie Idth we had the ' doldrums." Until the tenth, wheh we were in lat. 6° 25' N., long 26" 67' W., the weather was chiefly fine, with a mixture of Northerly and southerly swells ; after that, heavy rain squalls, looking very threatening, but not sufficient wind to require the royals to be taken in, with a high southerly swell. During the whole time the wind was from East round by South to West, but chiefly South 5 the current was generally to the eastward from 11° to 6° N. " Oct. 16th.— Lat. 4° 8' N., long. 25° 41' W. ; current in the last 24 hours West, 16 miles; wind S. by W., by compass; variation 17° W. This wu» the point where I had to decide whether to steer to the eastward, making a lUtl: i^ '*hm^, until I considered my ship far enough to windward, or to the west." . akmg about W.S.W., with the certainty of a westerlv current. I chose to § ■ : , 5 .e westward, feeling sure that the wind would gradually draw to the S.E., wueieas I think that had we gone to the eastward we should have continued la the variables, if we did not run back into calms. " Oct. 16th.— Lat. 8° 18' N., long. 27° 22|° W. ; course and distance, 8. 62^° W. 114 miles ; current in the last twenty-four hours, N. 39° E. 12 miles ; variation, by azimuth compass, 17* 3' W., by steering compass, 16° 3' W. At lOh. a.m. a large ship passed us steering to the eastward, and we lost sight of a barque which was m company, so I suppose that she also went off to the eastward, The wind drew to the South ay compass, so that we were able to make true S.W. i W. The weather dur- ing the last 24 hours looked unsettled, especially in the N.W., where there was light- ning ; but even when we broke ofi' to W. by N. for an hour I felt that by going on the port tack we were drawing into the S.E. trade. " Oct 17th.— Lat. 1° 30' N., long. 29° 24' W. ; by ♦ lunar, 30* W. ; course and dis- tance, S. 48i° W. 162| miles ; current, S. 77i° W. 13 miles. The wind from S.by E. to S.S.E. ; the sea sn}ooth and weather very delightful. •< Oct. 18th.— Lat. 0° 52' S., long. 31° 24' W., by « lunars 32° W. ; course and dis- tance, S. 41° W. 184 miles ; current, S. 44° W. 12 miles. The wind from S.S.E. to S.E. by S. " Oct. 19th. — 6h. a.'vi., lat. per meridian altitude of Sirius, 2* 32' S. ; noon, lat. 3° 15' S,, long. 31° 60' W. ; current, S. 13° W. 8 miles ; wind S.S.E. i E. ; bearing and distance of the Rocas, supposing them to be in lat. 3° 55' 8, long. 33° 44' W., and taking the mean of the above longitude as my position at noon, S. 36° W. 51 miles. 3h. p.m. — Lat., per meridian altitude of Venus, 3° 33 i S. 3h. 20m., p.m. — Long., Sir altitudes of the sun, using the London rates for the oest chronometer, 33° 10|' W. ence, since noon we had made S. 36° W. 26 miles. * " On the Passage from England to the Line :" "Mercantile Marine MaMaine," Sept., 18S5,pp. 328—347. t See " NftuMcal MsgaaiuS," thar bow miles 1 la«l9, ^. 169— 177, and d6j<-de3. ACROSS THB EQUATOR. »v» yet to Teeaeu out* Bs hMJMen tioly worth resoel n (the 9f the Lino, iras made in 26" 29' W. ' to make a 1 gave the cere in Int. hirty-eight 9th we had 67' W., the rellB ; after to require le time the irrent was mrs West, oint where 1^, until I kmg about westward, think that we did not I. 62i° W. riation, by m. a large ich was m rew to the ather dur- was light- going on e and dis- aS.byE. B and dis- S.S.E. to noon, lat. bearing W., and 01 miles. — LOM., 10^' W. »," S«pt.. «• Yluroagfaout the afternoon we steered about S. 36* W., and at Oh. p.m. we saw the leef about 12 miles off, eztonding from nearly ri^^ht ahead out on the weather bow i and at 8h. we kept away W.S. W ., so as to pass it at the distance of about fire miles. ** The sighting the Rocas was one of very many instances in my experience pror- ing the look-oat man, either from want of practice or from feeling a want of interest in what he was doing, unable to see an object almost staring him in the face. From 3h. 30m., p.m., I ordered a regular look-out from froTed to be a beacon on the western part of the reef ; yet from the topsail-yard the ook-out man had seen nothing, and could hardly see it when I pointed it out. A similar case happened one evening on our way towards Torres Straits, when I sent an officer un to look round as the sun set, though I always kept a man on the fore-top- sail-yaira. He quickly saw a long line of broken water right ahead, it bein^ part of Lihou Shoal extending further to the eastward than it was laid down either m charts or books. I And that in moderately clear weather, when observations show that the land may be sighted, a good night-glass on the forecastle and a patent lead are first- rate safeguards ; indeed, the three L's are all right enough, but much depends on the quality df these said L's." " Now it remains to be decided how we should have fared if on the Idth we had stood to the eastward, making easting, with a little northing, until we thought our- selves far enough to windward. In our present case we certainly had to tack off America (though it is the first time in my extreme westerly routes that I have had to do so), yet in two days we beat 111 miles to the South and 27 to the East, and * cleared the difficulty. It would not be right, however, to tempt ships near reefs and land unless they gain by it ; and merely by a comparison of my own voyages of other years at the same season I should condemn this route, for I never did worse from 10^ N. to the equator than this year. Once at the very same date I passed between the Cape de Verdes and Africa. Then we were 13 days from 10° N. to the Line, but were not troubled near South America and had a better S.E. trade. This time we were only 12 days, but lost a day near South America. In October, 1802, 1 passed 10" N. about 2° further East within a day or two of our date, and was only 8^ days to the Equator, which we crossed in 20° W., having been carried into 18° W. by a strong S. W^ monsoon, which turned into the S.E. trade without a calm. Still, this probably was an exception, and I should like and shall try to see the logs of some ships which passed through the Doldrums with us. September 25th, 1R06, and October 15th, 1837, 1 crossed the Equator much in the same lonvitude as this year — that is, 31° W. ; in September passed 25 miles to the westward of Fernando Noronha, and in October ntill nearer, and both voyages we weathered America with ease. Once in May I crossed ^e Equator between 2o' and 29° W. and could not weather America, but tcaa much bothered off Cape St. Augua- tine. <' Again, fh>m Cape St. Augustine to the Abrolhos, the ships which pass fhr West do not seem to do so well as those which go far to the eastward. For instance, as I am now writing on the 26th of October, we have done but S. 14° W. 61 J miles, and on the 2dth S. 23° W. 86 miles. For all this, one feels inclined to blame the westerly route ; at any rate until it is proved that the ships which went to the eastward have done as bacuy or worse than ourselves. " The conclusion I am inclined to draw ft«m all this is, that in October when once your ship is so near the Equator as to expect the S.E. trade, and the wind sets in from S. by W. bv compass, go on the port tnck with the yards sharp up, and keep well fVtll { then the wind is almost certain to turn into the n.E. trade, wiui beautiful weather. My experience would lead me to say that in October, when you are below 5° N., with a steaay S. by W. by compass wind, you have the commencement of the s.~ ■ as though 400 PASSAGES OVEJl THE ATLANTIC, the tack on which you make the most southing with a fotil • becftnse the probability is, that you will have a S.W. monsoon, which will drive you •%!' ♦<» the eastward. If there were not this probability I would have u ihip in Oci . u«r steei to g^et tiie S.E. trade, or rather the S. by W. wind, in about 2l>° W., for if she does not get into the latitude of Cape St. Roque qvax so soon, I think we shfdl be in a better position by the time sne loses the S.£. trade." In a Bubisequent discussion, when Captain Toynbee had procured the logs firom other ships of similar class which left the Channel at the same time, the Gosport, which was also West of the Cape Verdes on the same day, bore to the S.E. crossing the Equator In 25° W., and reaching 20° S. a week before the Qloriana. The Mfred, which pursued a similar course to the Oloriana, crossing the Line in 32^° W. ; and the Vernon and Octavia, which p&itsed inside the Cape verdes, cronsed the Line in 26° and 26° W. " The first question raised is — ^Was the Oloriana riffht in steering due South on the 2nd when the wind was fair P The Ooa/orth'a track says no, she ought to have steered S.S/E. until in 25o W., and then to have made a little easting vriui the south- ing wbonever it was possible. But the tracks of the two shipa ( Vernon and Octavia) which passed East of the Cape de Verde Islands, say on no account go to the east- ward of 22° W. This advice is only applicable when the wind is light and variable ; of course, if a S.W. monsoon is experienced in these parts a souui-easterly course must be followed until the wind draws to the South. " On looking at these tracks I suppose Maury's correspondent. Captain Windsor, would say that the captain of the Ooaforth is < one of tnose men who are kicked tJiroagh the world in good luck to keep them out of harm's way,' or how could he have had a run of 184 miles between the 6th and 6th oi' October, when ships to the right and lett of him did but little more than half that distance in the same time ? Not being a believer in luck myself, it seems to me that the little easting he made from the 2nd to the 9th placed him in a position by which he was enabled to keep off the coast of South America, and so avoid the light winds f om the 24th to the 26th which affected all the ships North of 20° S. Here my second query is answered, for we find that the westerly crossing of the Line was not the cause of the light winds we experienced on the 26th and 26th ; or, to be more explicit, the ships several degrees East of us suffered from them to the same extent as ourselves. The Alfred and Oloriana have given the extreme westerly route a fair trial. They started from 20° N., differing one day in their dates, and on the 23rd of October, after passing Cape St. Roque, iheAlJi'edyv9» in the same position as the Oloriana had held on the 22na. The extreme eastern route between the Cape de Verde Islands and Africa was fairly tried by the Vernon and Octavia, It is manifestly wrong for the early part of October, for they lost much on the ships which took the western route. " Considerine the positions of the four hindmost ships on the 28th of October, I am inclined to tnink that the Oloriana^t is the best, for to get South of the calms and variables near the tropic of Capricorn is more important than to make easting, so much so that when there I choose the tack which gi\es the most southing. Hence the readers of my last paper on the subject will see that this research proves that we were better off than most of our neighbours, and no doubt the < )mmanders of the other ships will examine this chart with great interest. " Itvrill be noticed that the Ooa/orth'a track endf^ on the 21st, so thai althnuffh, where it commenced, she was but a trifle more than half a day in advance of the Oloriana, she ended with an advance of seven days. Thus she gained on the Oloriana, 6| days J A\fred, 1\ ; Octavia, 8J j Vernon, 9J. •' The conclusion I draw from this is, that early in October neither the extreme eastern nor the extreme western route is good. Tlicroforc, a ship should pass West of the Cape do Verde Islands, and then, when the wind will permit, haul * -» the S.E. when South of them, so an to be about 23° W. when she is 6° N., she nhoulu then take the tack win. 'i gives the uiost southing, ACROSS THE EQUATOR. 401 e probabilil^ tie eastwara. Bi to get the I not get into itter position ^ from other >sport, which crossing the The AljT-ed, 2i» W. 5 and the Line in South on the rht to have ui the south- and Octavia) to the east- nd rariable ; iterlj course lin "Windsor, ) are kicked ow could he ships to the same time ? ng he made 1 to keep o£P to the 26th Qswered, for ht winda we eral degrees trial. They ctober, after inahad held ca was fairly rly part of f October, I le calms and easting, so ng. Hence ives that we ders of the it althnngh, ance of the le Olortana, he extreme pass West * 1 the S.E. u then take *' Maary's * Sailing Direciions ' sapport thie opinion. Thp averages he deduces from the table in page 148 of the 2nd vol., dated MaM;b, 1859, plainly prove that the extreme western route is a disadvantage in October. And, again, the Ameticai; part of the table in page 369 shows that smps should not go East of the Cape de Verde Islands in October, though it is contradicted by the Dutch part of the same table, with more ships to take an average from. Still, most of the nine Dutch ships may have passed East of the Cape de Verdes much later in October than the Americans ; at any rate sound reasoi. seems to support the middle route, for if a iMp works her way to the South in the longitude of the Cape de Verdes she is more likely to get a spirt of the S.W. monsoon, which sometimes blows at this season, and avoids the certain calms of a more easterly course, as also the danger of being detained a day or two near Cape St. Roque by the more westerly route. « From the end of October to February I would pass East of the Cape de Verde Islands, and perhaps also in March and April. Early in December we took this rout*!, and were on the Equator on the 23rd day from England. <' A few tracks similar to these for each month in the year would soon decide the best route." With these remarks we close this branch of our subject, — one of great importance to the mercantile interest, — and the application of the physical facte enumerated in our earlier pages. We leave it to the mariner to decide between the able authorities we have quoted, as to the proper course to pursue, and express a hope, with Captain Toynbee, t^t we may have at an early day a sufficient number of fiaicts to definitively decide the ques- tion as to the best crossing of the equator. -'ii,, ■t<^f- "■ina- We are unwilling to omit those instructions which have appeared in our former editions, and which have now for nearly a century directed almost all the European shipping ; but, of course, what has preceded wiU supersede them where they difier. Still much ia good to the present day, and may be followed advantageously. M. jy.Apria de ManneviUette, in his Directions for Navigating from the English Channel to the East Indies, says, " When you steer out of the channel, you ought to shape y our course so as to paos Cape Finisterre at the distance of 2d or 30 leagues ; thib distance," he adds, " will be sufficient, in whatsoever season of the year your voyage may happen : you may, indeed, double that cape still nearer, if circumstances require; but, from its latitude, you should always shape a course for the Island of Madeira. <' Though a sight of that iKland is not indispensably necesHury in this passage, it is S roper, however, to gain a sight of that, or of the Island of Forto Santo, that you may e able to keep or your course after, /ard with greater certainty, whether you pass between the Cfanary Islands, or leave them to the eastward, as may be judged most couvenient." " In the passage from the coaste of France to the Canaries, you may frequently find difierences m your reckoning to the eastward, which arise most probably from the indraught of the currents toward the Strait of Gibraltpr : some have made the land on the coast of Africa when they expected to have diHcovered Tcnerife j others have gained sight of AUegranza, ofi" the northern part of Lanzarotc, instead of Tcnerife ; and, though the errors in reckoning ma;y not frequently bo so considerable, yet it is safer to be on your guard, when you judge, by your reckoning, that you are in the latitude of these islands, especially in tne night-time, or when the want of moonlight, or verv thick hazy weather, prevente you frx)m discovering dangers at such a distance OS to be able to CHcapo them. " The differences to westward, though much more rare, are yet not without I'xamplo ; chiefly when the winds have liung contrary for some time after the de- parture from the porte of England or France. 3 E 402 PASSAGES OVER THE ATLANTIC, *< S)iips are, however, now generally recommended to pass to the Westward of the Canary and C^pe Verde Islands : it having been found, that, in this route, steadier wiude ly be expected than those generally prevalent close to or among the islands. On tlic African coast, W.S.W. and S.W. winds are frequent. The track now generally adopted by diips having chronometers, is that to the westward of all the islands. « ShoiJd it be required to touch at Senegal or Goree, the best course will be, to make the coast of Africa near Cape Blanco, Kat. 20° 55' ; as there are soun^ngs at 5 or 6 leagues off the coast, and no danger in making the land, either by day or night, provided the lead be kept fi>equently going : and tiius you may steer up to the cape. " Though it may seem natural enough not to suspect any errors of consequence in ypur reckoning in* so short a passage as from the Canaries to the Isles of Cape Verde, yet there are instances of such, as well to easting as to westing. It is with respect to errors in our westings, that I advise ali vessels to keep 30 leagues to windward of '^onavbta, before they stand in to make the land ; lest, in keeping a direct course for that island, they should pass between the Isle of St. Nicholas and the Isle of Sal ; and, finding themselves to westward of Bonavista, when they reckoned themselves to be still to eastward of it, they should miss their refreshments at the Isle of St. lago, an accident which has happened to several vessels. " The making of these islands is often difficult, occasioned by the fogs which hang 'fi*equcntly uround them. For this reason, those who come from the northward, ought to steer their vessels in this track with all possible precaution. " The most convenient course for vessels, which continue theii' voyage firom the Canaries, without touching at the Islands of Cape Verde or Goree, is to steer, after they lose sight of the Canaries, so as to pass about 45 leagues west of Ca^ Blanco, or near the meridian of 20° ; from this position they will make good their course due South, as far as to 12" N., and afterward S.E. by S., till they meet with those variable ■ winds which succeed to the trade-winds. By this they will keep the mid-channel between the islands and Cape Verde, and coast along uie bank below that cape, at a aufficient distance, even though they should make an error in their reckoning of 15 or 20 leagues to eastward." But as, when the sun is near the northern tropic, the trade-wind h.\ 3 been often fbimd to fail within sight of the Cape Verde Islands, it has been reconuncnded to ships, at these times, to pass the islands to the westward, at the distance of about 10 leagues, in order to preserve a steady wind, and prevent delay, by keeping clear of the light eddv winds, which then prevail near and among the islands. When to the southward of these isles steer to the S.E., so as to get between the meridians of 18° and 23° W., upon losing the N.E. trade-wind. Shoidd the southerly winds then commence, advantage may be taken of the shifts to Stand on the tack which will gain most to the southward, so as to cross the Equator between the longitudes above men- tioned, if the wind will permit. Be cautious of making a long tack, either eastward or westward, with a dead southerly wind, in hope of having a hotter, onless the wind should veer, so as to produce much southing. The S.E. trade-wind, at its northern limit, generally inclines fhr to the southward, particularly in July, August, and September, but frequently in other months. A ship meeting this trade, should not be kept too close to the wind, but keep clean full, in order to make good way to the S.W., and clear of the southern limits of the westerly current that generally prevails about the Equator. It has been already shown, in the description of currents, that ships, passing the line too far to the westward, run the risk of not being able to weather the coast of Brazil. But M. UApres has observed, that there is not one instance to prove that, by passing the Line to the eastward of the limits above mentioned, ships meet with calms of a long duration, and currents setting with great rapidity toward the River Gaboon, as had before been generally imagined. M. D'Apres adds, " Vessels which sail from St. lago should steer S.E. as far as the TO AND FBOM THE SENEGAL AND GAMBIA. M» ;ward of the >ute, steadier If the islands. 3 track now Eird of all the ae will be, to indings at 5 iaj or night, to the cape. •nsequence in Cape Verde, Ith respect to windward of H!t course for Isle of Sal ; themselves to } of St. lago, ) which hanff i northward, ige from the to steer, after pe Blanco, or ir course due hose variable mid-channel lat cape, at a ling of 15 or 3 been often nur.onded to of about 10 |}ing clear of VVhen to the dians of 18° winds then ich will gain above men- ler eastward ess the wind 5 southward, ths. A ship :lean full, in the westerly passing the the coast of prove that, IS meet with •d the River M far as the 12th degree of latitude : after that S.E. hj S. Those which depart ttaok Ooree ihould steer S.S.W., if they desire to keep clear of the coast, till they reach the parallel of 10 degrees ; thence their course should be S.E. by S." His words on crossing the Line are, " When the variable winds socoeed the trade- y-inds, the best method of crossing the Line with speed is, to take advantage of the very first variable winds, for g^ainmg the ordinary track of the trade^winda so soon as you possibly can ; and for this end, to keep indifferently^ to that tack which bears most to southward, without troubling yourself about crossing the line at any deter- minate point, le'jt you make your voyage longer than is neoessavy.* ON THE j&ErUBH TOWABD EKOLAHB, the Equator should be crossed between the meridians of 18° and 26". When the sun is to the northward of the Line, the longitudes of 21° to 23° are to be prefened ; bees se then light and variable y inds extendfar from the AfHcan coast, especially in July , \ug^t, and September, when the sun is returning from the northward. If the southerly vrinds become light, a North, or N. by W. course may be kept, in oi-der to reach the N.E. trade-wind as soon as possible ; but, if variable light breezes are prevalent far to the northward, you should endeavour to pass the Cape Verde Islands at the distance of between 40 and 60 leagaes. In crossing the N.E. trade-wind, a ship's sails should be kept well filled, to enable her to gain speedily to the northward. In this tract the Sargasso or gjulf-weeds will be met with in the Sargasso Sea, and which are sometimes found as mgh as 41° N. Beyond the northern limit of the trade-wind, ships generally cross the parallel of 32° N. in from 39° to 42° W. Should th 8 wind vere to the N.W. on approaching toward the Azores, you may pass through one of the channels of these islands, and thence pursue a course to the English Channel, according to circumstances. It is not always advisable to pass to the eastward of these islands, because adverse winds often prevail firom the northward between them and the coast of Portugal ; and the currents are also generally unfavourable to this route ; yet it has sometimes happened, that ships passing this way have, with S.W. and West winds, reached the Channel sooner than those which have proceeded to the westward. With these S.W. and westerly winds, you must be cautious in approaching the Channel, in case the current should prevail, which sometimes sets athwart it, as before described. H: 6.— ROUTES TO AND FROM THE SENEGAL AND GAMBIA-t Whatever may be the season of the year, it is advisable to gain an offing of 2d leagues to the westward of Cape Finisterrei from hence it may be immaterial whether a course be shaped to the eastward or Avestward of Madeira. A commander dcHirous of touching at the Canaries will adopt the former, and will shajie a course * Capt. Maury says ; — " No sailing directions can be given for these calm belts, ex- copt such as are contained in these emphatic words: — " Makb thb hbst op youu way ACROSS THEM WITHOUT UBQARD TO LONOiTUDB." To which may be added, that noorer to North and. 8outh the opurso is the better, as it croaaeH their dirocUon at right angles. t Abridged, chiefly, from the Baron Rouauin. ^ 404 PASSAOEH ACROSS THE ATLANTIC, L. for Tenerife, having nothinff to apprehend on this course but the Salvaffesj the posi- tion of which has Men well determined. In the Canarian Arohipela^ the winds are mostly from North to N.E. If the course to the westward of Madeira bo adopted, a vessel will make the westernmost of the Canaries only, and her place may be rectified by a sight of Palma or Ferro. But a sight of the coast of Aflica is by no means necessary for vessels bound to the Senegal or Ooree. What has been said of the currents and prevailinar winds in this navigation, leaves no doubt that it is perfectly useless to make the land more than 16 or 20 leagues to the northward of the Senegal, when bound to the Bar-anchorage. This digression is the utmost which should M made from the above course ; and by means of the lead, and some few latitudes careftdly observed, it might even be ma(^ a direct one. On leavine Tenerife, the course should be S.W. } S. [_S. by W.i W.'] aire variable, but mostly found running to the southward, and seldom exceeding 1 mile in hour ; generally from ^ to f of a mile, until hauling up for St. Anne's Shoals. At about 40 leagues to the westwfurd of these, I have several times foxmd them setting abont E.S.E. oy chart, fiilly 1| miles in the hour. The sea between the meridian of 20° W. and the Bank of Soundings extending team the African Coast, is perhaps the most luminous part of the Atlantic Ocean. In the very dark gloomy nights of the wet season, with a strong breeze of wind, and when not one sohtary star is visible, nothing can exceed, no pen can describe, the awful grandeur and magnificence of the scene. The whole surface of the sea appears as one vast sheet of liquid fire ; and the ship, sailing at the rate of 6 or 7 knots through the water, causes streaks of light to be emitted from the sea, that throw a strong yet sicklv and appalling glare upon all the sails, creating an indescribable sensation in the mind, that IS very far from being agreeable, as the vessel appears to be surrounded by breakers on every side. - ! > Although I have several times noticed this luminous appearance in the same tract, I am led to remark more particularly upon it on account of a most awftd night which I passed on the 24th of August, 1834, in or about lat. 7" 30' N. and long. 17° 30' W., which left an impression upon the minds of all on board that I fancy wul not be very soon effaced; for the vessel appeared to be sailing through a sea of liquid fire, whilst the heavy dark mass of clouds appeared to rest upon her mast- heads, and not a single star was visible amid the homd gloom. No bottom was found at 120 fathoms. Temperature of the air 82°, and of the water 79° (Fahrenheit). Vessels in want ofKroumen should call at Orand Sestros. — From some years' ex- perience I can confidently say, that they are the most vrilling and best disposed men upon the Krou Coast j and, if well used, are faithful tv. dieir employer in everv diffi- culty he may have to contend with to leeward. Every vessel should take four or five, or more of them, in proportion to her size ; for, in the Oil Rivers, if white men are exposed in the boats or canoes, landing or taking in casks, they very soon fall victims to the climate. The Kroumen prefer rice to any other diet, and a good supply can genenlly be procured at a cheap rate, except between January and June ; but, considering the detention of lying-to, in dtder to procure it, the rice may be exported frvm England, for ships' use, at veiy nearly as cheap a rate. One of the Kroumen is of more real service m the Oil Rivers tlum two Europeans ; they are generally well versed in the English language ; and are contented with a dash or present when left at Fernando Po, after the vessel has completed her lading. On approaching the Krou coast it is usual to hoist the ensign and iire a gun, and the vessel will be soon surrounded by canoes. A small canoe may be pur- chased for the ship's use for a mere trifle, and will be found extremely serviceable in the rivers. The navigation between Cape Lahou and the land of Formosa presents no difficulty to the navigator; the currents in the route run to the eastward at 1, 1|, and sometimes 2 knots or more, in the hour. If there be no inducement to call at Bereby, Drewin, or Cape Lahou, for ivory, it will be as well (and vidll certainly expedite the passage) to shape a course from Cape Palmos for Cape Three Points ; and then, givmg that land a berth of 5 or 6 leagues, shape a course for the land of Formosa. In steering across the Bight of Benin, the current will be generally found running about 1 mile an hour to the N.E. ; and must be allowed for, by steering one-third of a point to the southward of the direct course. A mere inspection of the chart will show that what is erroneously called Cape Formosa is, in fact, an elbow land rounding ofl' gradually to the eastward ; and TO AND OF WESTERN AFRICA. 40t ia generally ) internroted Leone, blow ' to keep the 76 tracks .ire nff 1 mile in Shoals. At them setting ending from an. In the i, and when e, the awful pears aa one through the ig yet sickly in the mind, rounded by I same tract, iwfiil night ^. and lonff. [ fancy wfll a^h a sea of I her mast- a was found iheit). le years' ex< sposed men every diffi- ike rour or white men 7 soon fall ;ood supply June; but, )e exported Lroumen is erally well when left fire a gun, ly be pur- viceablc in difficulty 1|, and to call at certainly ee Points ; le land of d running le-third of iUed Cape YoLTd ', aud regnUur sonndings upon a muddy bottom extend for some oonsiderable distance to the westward and southward of it. The land is here extremely low, and should not be approached in the night nearer than in 8 or 10 fathoms, unless by a vessel prepared to anchor. After making the land, the oldest and most experienced traders to the Oil Rivers are frequenthr deceived as to the position of the vessels ; for the best description of the rivers from Formosa to Bonny is but vag^e and imperfect ; and I therefore proceed to give such directions as I think, from my own experience, will be found useftil to vessels bound to the Bonny or New Calabar River. The rivers between Terra Fotnoaa and Bonny have all shoal bars at tiie entrance, and generally appear from the offing to be narrow. They have no peculiar feature to distinguish them, other than their ^ing open to such points of the compass as are expressed in the Sailing Directions. SEASONS. — Tlie Seasons here appears to have been imperfectly described. The rains generally commence in the latter end of May, or early in June, and gradually increase, with strong S.S.W. and S.W. breezes, durine the months of July, August, and great part of September, towards the end of which month they as gradually ter- minate. In July and August heavv squalls frequently prevail ; and in these months the wind very rarely shins more than between S.S.W. and S.W., an I the rain is in- cessant from sunset to nearly n^ >n next day, when it ceases for a few hours, and again commences with more or less violence in the evening. In October the weather becomes more settled, with light land winds, and occasionally showers of rain, which, how- ever, yield to the moderate sea breeze that sets in about ten or . eleven a.m. In No- vember the tornadoes commence, and are at first violent, gradually decreasing in strength as the Harmattan or drv season commences, although they are occasionally frevuent from this month to May. In December, January, and February, is the [armattan season ; and in these months the sea breeze sets in about noon, and blows with very moderate force from the W.S.W. and westward until sunset, when it dies away to a calm. During the night there is little or no wind, and the weather is ex- tremely sultry and oppressive, and veiy heavy unwholesome dews. After daylight a light air springs up from the northward or N.N.E, which gradually increases to a moderate foice, and continues until about eleven a.m., when it falls calm, and soon after is succeeded by the light westerly breeze. The Harmattan, however, sometimes blows steadily and without intermission from the N.E. <]^uarter for several days together, especially about the new and full moon. It is at this season that the smokes prevail, and are exceedingly injurious to the European constitution. These smokes are so dense that it is impossible to see a cable's length from the ship for days together ; and any vessels that may be in the offing, inward bound, have no resource but to anchor, and wait with patiencd for clearer weather. In ' larch, April, and May, the weather is clear, with light land winds at daybreak, wiiich gradually die away, are succeeded by the W.S.W. breeze about ten a.m. ; and this breeze blows with moderate force during the remainder of the day and greater part of the night. In these months the atmosphere is serene and clear, particularly during the nights, which are very fine indeed. The palm oil season commences in the early part of March ; the oil becomes plentiful in April, and continues to be so until September, when it declines ; and from October to March it is, properly speaking, out of season, fdthough small quantities of it may be procured in these months. In the foregoing remarks as to the seasons and climate, I beg to be understood as speaking of the New Calabar and Bonny Rivers only, and now proceed to consider the best means of preserving the health of the crews of'^vessels Iramng there. Masters of vessels should bo on their guard against shipping plethoric or lusty men to go to the Oil Rivers of Africa. Drunkards are still worsj Hubiects than these > for if a man undermines his constitution by intemperance ii. England, he cannot repair it in Africa. I have too frequently remarked that huiaan skill is of little avail in saving the life of a drunkard, when once attacked with the African fever. The fact is, a drunkard is predisposed to sickness, and soon falls a victim to the climate. The pletiioric or lusty man, if he has not tampered with his constitution, has a rather uetter chance ; but should he fortunately recover from the fever, he is often annoyed 408 PASSAGES OVER THE ATLANTIC, with attacks of affuo all tho passage home, and does not recover his health nntil he arrives in England. Thin, raw-boned snbiects are the best for the coast of Africa ; and they shomd be selected from men wno have made several voyages to the West Indies, as they are, in some degree, seasoned to a warm climate ; and those that have never made voyages to a tropioil climate should be decidedly rejected. To preserve the health of the creW, the vessel should be housed over as soon as possible after her arrival in the river. Plenty of mats should be procured, and a good, sabstantial, tight house be at once made, to shelter the crew, and preserve the vessel from the weather. Every care should be taken to make the house perfectly water-tight, as well for the comfort and health of the seamen, as for the advantage of working the palm oil in wet weather. An overstrained economy in the purchase of a few mats is highly reprehensible. The seamen will generally nang hammocks under the house ; and, if well sheltered fr«m the weather, will enjoy better healtii than they woTild by sleemng below in the steam emitted itom the oil. In these rivers it is presumed that the Kroumen do all out-duty required in the boats, &c. ; for a Euitvpean should not be allowed to put. his foot over tne side, either for the purpose of visiting or going ashore, even on Hip's duty (unless unavoidable), as it infallibly leads to dissension and drunkenness irom the worst of spirits ; and a dnmken fit in Africa is the almost sure forerunner of sickness, and probably deatJi. All vessels should keep a sufficient quantity of English water on board for use in the country, as the Bonny and New Calabar water has an immeuse quantity of ani- malculae, is very unpleasant to the palate, and injurious to the health. Cocoa is an excellent and nutritious article of met ; and the crew should be well supplied with yams, which are the only vegetable, excepting corn and plaintains (the latter not plentiful), that can be procured in these rivers. If the crew unavoidably get wet, they should immediately rub themselves thoroughly dry with coarse cloths, and put on dry clothes. The forecastle should be frequently cleaned out with a solution of chloride of lime, and the seamen's clothes ana bedding kept well aired. Attending to these precautions will be found the best means of preserving health. Here I may observe that fr^sh stock of all kinds is very scarce and very dear in these rivers, so that vessels bound to Bonny or New Calabar would do well by pro- curing tiieir fresh stock and com to windward, either on the K.rou Coast, Fnsco, Cape Lahou, the various settlements on the Gold Coast, or at a small village on the sea coast, near Cape St. Paul, called Dokko, or Occo. At these places stock of all kinds is -abundant, and very cheap when obtained in barter. Current. — I have almost omitted putting the mariner upon his guard against the effect of the strong easterly current that runs from Terra Formosa to Old Calabar. This current runs with greater or less velocity almost throughout the year, except in or about the Harmattan season, when it occasionally sets to the westward and W.S.W. Vessels that have advanced much to the eastward of Terra Formosa, and cannot see Foch6 Point before night, should anchor, in order to prevent the effect of the current ; but in squally weather or the weat season it may be as well to work to windward, heaving-to occasionally during the night, according to circumstances ; 9 or 10 fathoms is quite close enough to stand in-shore in the night ; when in 6 fathoms the surf can be very distinctly heard. When once to leeward on this coast, getting up to windward again is attended with much trouble and difficulty. I may here remark, that too much attention cannot be paid to the lead upon any part of me coast of Africa, as the current frequently sets directly in upon the land ; and from careful observation, upon the windward coast, I can confidently assert that the thermometer is no guide whatever on approaching the land. In more than 100 experiments upon the surface water, I could never detect any sensible difference in the temperature whsn sailing toward the land from no bottom into 45 and 40, and thence close in-shore into 14 or 16 fathoms on the Krou Coast. In the dry season there is little difference hereabout in the temperature of the air and water ; the former averaging 77° to 81° (in the shade), and the latter 74" or 75° of Fahrenheit. TO AND OF WESTERN AFRICA. m jaltii until he Iflt of Africa ; 9 to the West 1086 that have To preserve ible after her , substantial, ssel from the rater-tight, as working the a few mats is ;r the hoiise ; ley would by- resumed that m should not ing or going to dissension is the almost rd for use in intity of ani- Cocoa is an upplied with le latter not I themselves le shoTild be nen's clothes )und the best very dear in well by pro- oast, Fnsco, illage on the stock of all against the )ld Calabar, ir, except in andW.S.W. 1 cannot see the current ; windward, p 10 fathoms the surf can tended with n cannot be quently sets ard coast, I oaching the aever detect rid from no n the Krou •ature of the atter 74" or Dirootiolu. — The Sbmeufard Ptuaage, through the Bight of Biafra, presents no particular feature to the attention of the navigator, if I may except the strona N.E. currents that almost invariably prevail in it. All homeward bound vessels Suit do not intend calling at Fernando Po, should use every possible exertion to pass to the westward of the island, as a good board may be then made to the southward on the starboard tack. Except in the Harmattan or tornado seasons, no advantage can be derivedby standing close in-shore, as Hiere are no land winds, and a near approach is, at any time, very dangerous, as the whc^e of the coast, from Camaroens to the Gaboon (except about Corisco), is generally bold-to, and the soundings in nowise to be de^nded on. On this part of the coast there is no trade, and the inhabitauti are miserable naked savages. On getting to the southward of Prince's Island, the very excellent directions of Mr. Finlaison (given hereafter) may be followed with advantage. Many navigators have remarked, that on standing to the westward between Prince's and St. Thomas's, «ven when making a trifle of northing, the N.E. current has been found to diminish in strength as the vessel makes westing. Even so far to the south- ward as 3° South there is seldom any easting in the wind before passing the meridian of Greenwich. Vessels bound to the northward ahovli not attempt crossing the Equator to the east- ward of 20" W. (the n^eridian of 21 ^° W. is to be preferred), and should then make a North or N. by W. course, to ^t into the N.E. traae wind, which having once fetirly f gained, the homeward navigation i general! well understood. In this route, after eaving the Cfuinea current in the Bight of > iiafrti, the ship will gradually get into Equatorial current as she gets to the sortl ward, and this current frequently runs with considerable velocity. On examinii ; my journals, I find that, by good lunar observations and an excellent chrr^rometer, I have, at various times, made tne follow* ing differences to the westward « i •..;: id reckoning, i>. the run from St. Thomas's to longitude 20° West of Oreenwiol , bf.lween the parallels of 0° 35' North and 3° of South latitude. In April, 1830, the brig Anne was set 237 miles to the westward and 78 miles to the northwfurd of account in 20 days. In October and November, 1831, the barque Severn was set 240 miles to the westward, and 94 to the northward of account in 23 days. In October, 1833, the Freeland was set 246 miles to the west> ward, and 51 to the northward of account, in 20 days. In August, 1835, the same vessel was set 228 miles to the westward, and 43 to the northward in 19 days ; and in November and December, 1836, the brig Caledonia was set 373 miles to the westward and 107 miles to the northward in 18 days. But it may be observed that, in the lattev vessel, I never crossed the Equator, but was generally 8 or 10 miles to the northward of it, until I crossed the meridian of 12° W. In the above runs I have occasionally, but rarely, found slight differences to the southward. When to the southward of the Equator, abreast of the Bight of Benin, I have always found a current running at least three-quarters of a mile an hour to the northward. . n . -^ t'k; ;,..~,-M fc,- DlRECTlONS FOR SAILING FROM THE BlOHT OF BlAFRA TO SlERRA LeONE. ; By the Late Mb. James Finlaison. , ; Ships boimd from the Bight of Biafru to Sierra Leone, if fit)m Calabar River, when the wind does not permit them to proceed by the N.W. of Fernando Po, may pass between that island and Camaroens River, when they will find a strong current set- ting to the southward, apparently out of the River del Rey. After they have ad- vanced to the southward of Fernando Po, they must endeavour to make all the south- ing and westing they can ; passing either to the eastward or northward of Prince's Island, as winds will permit. On me East side of this island the current sets strongly to the southward, at tne rate of 1^ knots ; westward of Prince's Island the current sets strongly to the N.E. at the same rate. Prince's Island, if the ship will lie no higher 3 F Haviiij^ arrived at the ouuthwaru oi 410 PASSAGES ACROSS ^HE ATLANTIC, than W.N.W., taok immedlfttely, and try to orom the Line ; for, by so doings, you will keep oat of ihe strong N.E. current [the Guinea Current'] that sets towwrds the Bignts of Benin and Biafra. After you have crossed the Line, you will find that you are nearly out of the easterly current. In the parallel of 1° South jiou will find the current set to the westward, at the rate of 1 mile an hour. In the month of May or June, when the sun has a Ugh declination, the trade wind is fair to the southward, and you will not g^ain the regular breese nearrr than in 3° South. This breeze com- mences flpom S. by W. As you make westing, tLe wind will be found to haul more to the southward and eastward, and the current increases to the rate of Ij^ knots in an hour, until you arrive as fbr to the westward as 16" West. On proceeding hence to Sierra Leone, come no ftirther to the eastward than 15° West, until you are as far to the northward as 8° 30' N. ; then you mav steer boldly in for the Cape. You will strike soundings in that parallel, in 14° 40' \V. ; and as you approach the Cape the soundings will be found very irregular, from 20 fathoms to 12 at a cast. You will then be 7 let^gues from the Cape, and in the fair track of the river^ Having given these directions to our prize-masters, they generally made the nassagc from Fernando Po or Bonny in five weeks ; merchant vessels ha^e fr^uontly been tlircti months by keeping in-shore. By Commander W. B. Oliver, R.N. -••?' ;r'C' ki} if-'S i Conceiving that a shorter passage from the Bights, or Prince's Island to Sierra Lconc, than that made by proceeding as recommended in the Book of Directions, to the Kouthward of the Line, might be made by keeping to the northward, I determined to ascertain the fact ; and though each time accompanied and retarded by a prize, made three unusually short passages, viz. — one from the Biver Bonny, anchoring at Prince's, and landing prisoners at St. Thomas, in 18 days; the other two in 13 &ys each from Prince's Island to Sierra Leone ; and, on returning to England in H!er Majesty's schooner, unaccompanied by a prize. Thirty-nine days having been the shortest of three prizes I sent up under the old directions from Benin and the Gaboon. I issued different directions to prize-masters; and, although not acted on, in absence from myself, I feel assureu they would have proved, as they did in my company, an improvement on the old one ; a copy of which Directiona are as follows : — Your first object will bo to pot to the southward, unless you can make a West course (true) without any nortlunff ; nor should vou go to the port tack unless you can do so, or to avoid the land. Should the wind hang so much to the westward i a to prevent making a good course on the port tack, pass to the eastward of Prince's or St. Thomas, or both, as you will sooner get xut of the strong easterly current, but do not approach the land within 20 feiUioms, day or night, ana g^t frequent casts of the lead. When to the westward of St. Thomas, and on or near the Line, steer W. ^ N., or W by N., according us your noon sights give you a northerly set or not, until in the longitude of Cape I'alinaB, 7" 45' W ; whon steer, in the rainy season (May to Sep- tember), N.W. by N. ; in the other montlis, N.W., until in 13° West, the longitude of the woNtern limit of the St. Anno Shoals ; you may then make a true North course, Bounding every 5 miles by night, or tliick weather, and every 10 miles by day, from 6" N. t« 8" N. If you ronch the latter without striking soundings, it will pi*ove that you have passed to the westward of the Anne Shoals ; when keep away K. by N., by compnHs, tc) 8° 16' N. j then Hteer E. by S. | S. (East, true), and you will make the high land of Sierra Leone ; if by night, anchor on reaching 12 fathoms. These instructions can only be acted on in a general way, as of course much de- Sends on winds and currents ; but I winh them to have full weight with any officer etnched i.i a prize ; and remember, the land about Sierra Leone should always be made to the southward of the Cape. TO AND FROM THB WEST ^DIBS. 411 ling, you will towards the ind that you nrill find the h of May or 9 gouthward, hreeze com- to haul more H knots in :>eding hence )u are as far e. You will lie Cape the k. You will the nassagc ^uontly been id to Sierra irections, to I determined by a prize, anchorinff at o in 13 &ya land in H!er ing been the the Gaboon. , in absence company, an lake a West unless you westward * s of Prince's current, but lent casts of W. f N., or until in tho lay to Sep- onffitude uf brth courHO, y day, from pi-ovo thnt by N., by ill make tho to much (Ic- 1 any officer I 111 ways bo 7— OF SHIPS BOUND TO AND FROM THE WEST INDIES, WITH INSTRUCTIONS FOR NAVIGATING THEREIN. The courses of these ships are reg^ilated by the -winds and currents which have been described in the preceding chapters. The consequence is a circuitous track, requisite to be taken, not only to the West Indies, but to the southern parts of the United States. For, having passed Cape Finisterre, its befbre described, the best course is then to the S.S.W., so as to gain the trade-winds quickly. The preceding observa- tions on passing Madeira, &c., may, then'fore, in this instance, be usefiil, as well as in the former. As the great object is to attain the N.E. trade, in order to run down your westing with as little delay as possible, the remarks upon the passage across the Equator will almost apply equally to this voyage : the more especially thoHc given by Capt. Maury as to a westerly track from ihe channel leading through steadier vrinds, ana therefore more particularly applicable to the route across the Atlantic in the Trades, where there is no object in maintaining an easterly position to avoid being driven to leeward of the Brazilian coast. In confirmation of this view, Captain George Cheveley, of Liverpool, remarks, that he would recommend to ships clearing the English Channel, \f bound for the West Indies, to make the S.W. quadrant trtte, so as to pass nearly at an equal dis- tance between Madeira and St. Mary's. Captain Cheveley adds, tnat, by pursuing this track, he has invariably held a steadier breeze, and got much quicker into the trades, than when he proccci'.ed farther iaj the eastward, and bC Ciideavourcd to make more southing. He is aware that the latter is the general practice ; of which ho entirely disapproves, so far a^ concerns a Wesl, India passage. Ships for Jamaica generally pass to the southward of the Island Montscrrat, end thence proceed for the high rock uulied Alta Vela, o£f the southern point of St. Domingo, whence they take a departure for the eastern end of Jamaica.* When homeward-bound, they po-^s either through the Windward Channel or the Sti-ait of Florida, as tho wind and other circumstances may prevail or dictate. Between the months of October and March northerly winds prevail over the Mexican Sea and the adjacent regions ; and when northerly winds jirevail in the Strait of Florida, the Windward Channel must, of course, be preferred : but, at all other times, — at least, generally at other times, — the quickest and therefore most eligible passage is through the Channel of Yucatan, and thence, with the Florida Stream ui your fiivour, tlm)ugh the Strait of Florida. Although tho Windward Channel appears, by the chart, to be tho shorter and readier passage, yet ships are frequently opposed nere, bo^ by wind and current ; as will appear by the following statement, made by an ingenious ofilcer already quoted : — " After the defeat of the French fleet, commanded by Count de Grasse, in April, 1782, and the British had arrived at Port Royal, in Jamaica, a squadron was de- tached to gain the Windward Passage, run down the Bahama Old Channel, and cruise to the eastward of the Havana, to prevent a Spanish squadron, in the harbour, from cfiectin^ a junction with the French ships that had escaped into Cape Francois tCape Haytten']. For six weeks did the English squadron beat against fresh eea- rcezes and a Ice current j and, during that time, never advanced farther to the east- ward than off Morant Hurbour, thougn the ships were much strained by carrying a press of sail to attain the object ; but, ofter struggling so long, wore compclltu to return, baflied, into port. Now, though the tti-Ht object might have been to meet tho Spanish squadron on it wny to Cape Francois [/Trtf/^iWi], if it had sailed,, yet, so soon as the cficct of a Ice current was ascertained, the object of gaining the Windward * The AmoricatiB, who havo boon much in tho habit of going to tho West Indion with timber, &o., romfu-k, thnt when tho flyinff-flnh fly in swarmH, on'T are uncommonly Hniall, it is a certain indication of being nesr the West India Islnnds. — And, Livingtton. 412 PASSAGES OVER THE ATLANTIC, Pasgage ought to have been immediately abandoned, when, by bearing away with a fiiiTOurable current for some distance, and before a ftvsh trade-wind, CapQ Antonio might have been passed the second day, the sc^uadron have been off the Dry Tortugas on the third, and, by beating along the Florida shore with a weather current, when to the eastward of the meridian of Havana, it could have stretched over to Cuba in the night ; and, in all probability, have gained the appointed station in six days, or even, perhaps, as soon as it comd have gained Cape Maysi, if the easterly wind had been moderate, and no current to contend with." * When the tretdo-wind blovra strong, and in frequent squalls, during the summer months, between Jamaica and Hayti, and a short turbulent sea is found eastward of tibe former, then will those bound for Europe or the United States shorten the period of their voyage by bearing away for the West end of Cuba, and passing through the Strait of Florida. For the strait presents a more eligible navigation in these months than the Windward Channel. The sea-breeze will ensure a quick run to the Channel of Yucatan ; and the current, perpetually setting eastward between Cuba and Florida, will, in a few days, carry any vessel into the strait, where it will be nearly impossible to remain much above two days, in the strength of the stream, after lieing on tho parallel of the Bcmini Islands, even if there were not a breath of wind. But as the North winds prevail in the Strait of Florida in October, and frequently during winter, when variable winds and strong land-breezes ai-e not common on tho coast of Jamaica, shipping will find this the most favourable period for gaining tho Windward Channel. In January or February, if the wind otters a favourable oppor- tunity for gaining the cast end of Cuba, this track should be taken ; but, if the sea- breeze be strong, the Strait of Florida should be preferred, f , > .:'«.,'-> ' :' ' * " I think that this paragraph, unless qualified, is calculated to mislead ; pHrticularly in the words, ' when, by bearing away with a favourable current for some distance, and before a frosh trado-wind. Cape Antonio might have been passed on the second day.' Ad- mitting tho gonoral experience of the writer of this passage, I think he states an extreme case. Tho distanco trovn Port lioyal to Cape Antonio is fil8 miles ; which (divided by 48) equals more than 10 < milos per hour, (lonerally, there would bo nothing extraordinary in this porformancr, but I itay ; allow ten days moro for its commiindor to convince himself of the impossibility of effecting tho Windwa>-d Passago, and ho would have bore up on the 15th ; from the mforences L havo collected on this head, it appears that the run to Cape Antonio is seldom made in May within a week. In that month of this year [1833] I was ordered firom Montego Bay to New Providence : at the former place I consulted some of the most experienced commanders of West Indiamen, whether the most eligible course would be that of Cape Maysi or Cape Antonio : the majority recommended the latter, and I more readily deferred to their advice, from its concurrence with that contained iu tho extract, the previous consideration of which had occupied my mind. " Mttjf I8th, at six p.m., I sailed ; tho ship, being li^ht, was in most favourable trim ; calms, light winds, and moderate breozes, doscnbe the intervening weather, and wo did not pass the capo until tho 23rd, at two p.m., or in four dayt and twenty hour$ after leaving port. This sofitary instanco, however, would not afford a sufficient basis whereon to fix a rule; in its support., thorofore, I cite the Memoir, p. 226 [10th edition], wherein it appears that tho Carnhalton Park, in May, 1824 and 1826 respectively, was itven daya in porfcrmiug the same distAnce, although skilfully conducted. " Finally, althoiigh the advice, contained in the extract abovo, is judicious in establish- ing tho advantages of tho liooward Passage, I repeat, that tho hopes of* making it so spoodily RS is represented will not often bo rottli«od, for tho pages biHt quoted also show, that neither vory favouniblo curronts, nor fronh trade-winds, will i)o exnononcod upon that track at tho is tho lUl-important distinction between tho passagos W. H. Ihady, R.N. vory season indicated ; neverthelen« there of rirtuinty and uncertainty." — Lieut. f In nailing for the Windward (.'hannol, got tho coast of flayti on board hs Koon as you can, as you may then find a windwartl current, and, in the evening, the wind off-shor*. TO AND FROM THE WEST INDIES. 413 iway with a apq Antonio ry Tortugas irrent, when r to Cuba in six days, or Ly wind had the summer eastward of n the period through the hese months the Channel and Florida, y impossible eing on the d frequently mon on the gaining the rable oppor- if the sea- particularly ilistMnce, and d day.' Ad- 8 an extreme vided by 48) ■aordinary in ' alluded to, t Port Royal ?Iay; allow effecting tho inces L havo nade in Muy Bay to New mmandera of ysi or Capo their advice, ion of which amble trim ; nnd wo did iftor loaving reon to fix a n it appears porfcrmiug in ostablish- t BO Bpoodily that noithur track at tho tho passiigos Noon a« you F-shoru. When the sun has approached the Tropic of Cancer, strong westerly winds begin to blow along the western coast of Florida, and prevail during the months of June, July, and Auj^ust, from the Bay of Apalach6, southward. These westerly winds cause fluctuations in the atmosphere, which prevail more about the western end of Cuba than farther eastward ; and near the Havanna they have little influence. At this season vessels from Jamaica have met a westerly wind in the Channel of Yucatat. ; others have experienced a fair breeze at some distance, after passing Cape Antonio ; and the wind here will be found sometimes at N.W., West, and S.WT, veering about variably. The wind in the eastern quarter sometimes fluctuates about the western em' of Cuba, but not generally. At this season the wind blows impetuously off Jamaica, and in frequent squalls i and vessels bound thence to Europe should universally prefer the Leeward Passage. They will probably pass through tho Strait of Florida before they could gain tne entrance of the Windward Channel, though straining, with every effort, against tho wind. The appearance of a favourable opportunity lor passing through that channel should not be suffered to deceive ; for it may be no indication of the general state of the wind eastward. FROM THE WEST INDIES to the English Channel, after having cleared the Strait of Florida or Windward Passages, vessels may pass either to the northward or south- ward of the Bermudas, giving the islands a good offing, and attending to the preceding remarks on currents, &c. {See page 282.) In summer, the track to the northward of these isles has been recommended, passing thence to the northward of the Azores. In winter, the track to the southward of tne Bermudas is to be preferred; because, in this season, gales of north- westerly wind may be expected from the coasts of Ame- rica ; and, therefore, veKsels shoula continue a little to the southward of lat. 30°, or in about lat. 29° 40', if wind permits, until certain of being to the eastward of the Bermudas ; nor should they run to the northward of lat 35° or lat. 36°, until within a few degrees of the Azores. Thus will the heavy gales be avoided, which frequently rage more to the northward.* In shaping a course at any season, it should be remembered that the Great Circle course from Cape Florida to the Lizard follows the outer edge of the Gulf Stream in its earlier course, and, passing about midway between the Bermudas and Cape Hat- teras, it bears away north-eastward over the tail of the Newfoundland BanKs, and reaches the parallel of Scilly on a duo easterly course. Tho vertex of tho Great Circle being in lat. 60° and longitude 13° 48' W., of course itH direction is nearly east and West tor several degrees on either side of this point. The shortest distance be- tween the Lizard and Cape Florida is 3,671 milef . it leaves the Strait of Florida on a nearly due N.E. course true (N. 45° 35' E.), ai-' reu iies the Channel on F,. \ 8. true course. During a great portion of the year it is probable that this course could bo sf followed to advantago. Of course, the consideration of meeting with cyclones w inch follow very nearly this Great Circle course toward the N.E. is important, and there- fore during their season, July to October, as shown in (82) on page 217, a moro easterly route had better be pursued, that is, if tho Florida Channel Im3 taken ; but if, as is more probable, the windward passage is taken in this season, the Great Circle course thence will bo the most advantageous. But upon tliis subject Major Rcnnell has said, " Notwithstanding the advantages U) be gamed, in point of distance, by ships returning from the West Indies by tho favouring current of tho Ou^' Stream, which may be porhajwi reckoned i;<^ual to • Ah tho most destructive hurricanes on record, in this part of tho Atlantic, havo occurred in tho vicinity or on tho borders of tho Oulf Stream, this is an importuiit roiison for ships {romtho V/ost Indios, uovind to Europu, not. k» iinvanco too fur to iho northwanl. See, further, " Voyage from tho Wost Indies to tho Axoros," attacliod to tho duscriptiun of those islonda horoafter. 4H PASSAGES OVER THE ATLANTIC, several day's'ordinary sailicr } yet experienced navigators are still of opinion that, on tbe whole, it does not piesent eqiial advantages with the southern route. " It was, until latter times, held as a maxim not to advance to the northward of the parallel of lat. 33", in returning from the West Indies, because of the prevalence of storms northward of it. This wise rule of our ancestors has again been taken up, and His Majesty's ships, and of course convoys, will be, in future, directed to proceed by the South of Bermudas, and to cross its parallel at a few degrees to the eastward or the isles, and thence to steer direct for Corvo. " Bat, it may be observed, that a track which should cross the parallel of Bermudas at a very few degrees to the eastward of it, and then lead directly toward Corvo, would cross a most critical portion of the space, in which not only the warm water of the Gulf Stream prevailed, out in which several gales have been actually experienced. Therefore, it would seem that the parallel of the Bermudab should not be srosscd at less than about lat 15° [say lat. 14° J io the eastward of the itilands. " But, it may be asked. Where is the necesaitj of going to Corvo or Flores at all, for by it ships are placed in a situation proverbially known as a place of storms ; that is to say, on the West and N.W. of the Azores ? Why not go between them and the at later Azores ; or rather to the southward of them all, and thereby pass through a kindlier climate at all times P '* Any calculation or comparisons of time in making the diflferent passages would be nugatory ; since the security of lives and property is tne main object ; but it even happens that ships, which have had all the aavuntage of the Gulf Stream, have been crippled, and made more delay than in the southern passage with adverse currents." On the 17th of July, 1828, H.M.S. Bustard sailed from New Providence for Eng- land ; winds from the southward, and rainy weather. Found a current setting to the eastward, at an average of nearly three-quarters of a mile per hour, to Ion. 60°. Hav- ing passed to the southward of Bermudas, off the Western Islands, had thick hai.y weather, with small rain. Winds very variable. On the 11th of August ran into Fayal Roads from the northward, and anchored in 20 fathoms, with the West end of St. George's Island E. by N. | N., Castle of Sto. Cruz, situated near the South part of the town of Orta, W.N.W., off-shore about a mile. Supplies may bo obtained here at a cheap rate, but the water is rather brackish. Found the longitude of the anchor- age, by chronometer, 28' 41' 30". The current runs strongly here, and bet ween 1*100 and Fayol it seemed to set at the rate of nearly three miles m an hour. . .km^i sive i i Directions for Sailing to and from the West Indies and Noutii America : translated from the " Derrotero de las Antillas," by Captain Livinohton. Thcfto advices, or drrections, are simple applications of a principle derived from the general prevalence of the winds, as already described. Were it not for the constant wind ftom the eastward, which reigns within the tropics, it seems likely that the maritime commerce between the two hemispheres would never have existed ; for, by its means, not only are the voyages rendereu very simple, which would otherwise be interminable, but people in the most distant regions communioato with facility ; and thus the navigator who is bound to tho west- word has only to place liimsclf within the limits of the general wind, in the cci-tointy thot, in this manner, he must effect his purpose in the shortest po«"'Hle period. Sucu is iha first rule, which ought always to be attended to for thi- .lavigation. Thi> second rule is derived firom the first ; it is, that anyone, bound to the East from the W est, ought to get out of the region of the trade winds into tJ^t of the variables or anti-trades. Wo ha\*c here the two precepts which direct the operation of navigators in oxton- TO AND FROM THE WEST INDIES. «U inion that, on liwardof the >rcTaIence of ya taken up, id to x>rocecd the eastward ofBennudas ward Corvo, irm water of experienced. 96 irosscd at 'lores at all, storms ; that ihem and the IS through a isages would but it even n, have been currents." ice for Eng- eitififf to the 60°. Hav- l thick has.y ist ran into West end of I South part )tained hero the anchor- itwcon Pico ID NoiiTH [LLAS," BY I I'd from thu within the emisphcros dered very ust distant o tho wewt- uortointy iod. Sucu East from variables in exten- sive MM i and, in attending to them, we shall observe, that everv one boond from the Peninsnla (Spain and Portagal) to tiie eastern coasts of America ought to get into the trade winds as soon as may be, holding in mind an advice, which may oe con- sidered as a precept, that is, never, in navigating extensive seas, to keep eloae-hauled, but ahoayt take core to tail with the wind, 'ree ; >r at least to keep seven points from it. Taking it as ^nted that the first can of evt^ry one bound to America ought to be to get into the hmits of the general wind, it is clear that, with scant winds, the tack in the third quadrant (S W.) will be most advantageous, and ought to be followed always when it can. All the endeavour ought to be to get into these witds, without being particular as to the means, and without keeping close to the wind to imss be- tween the coast of AfHoa and the Canaries ; but taking the passage that suits best, be it that between the Canaries and Madeira, or be it between Madeira and the Azores ; and certainly either of these is preferable to that to the Ep^t of the Canaries ; for the proximity of the coast of Africa deadens the wind, and, consequently, is un- favourable to the brevity of the navigation. Having gained the general winds, the navigator miist t«ke precautions conducing to prevent any error of situation, in making his port ot destination ; for, if he who navigates by observations is exposed to be even 10 leagues in error, he who has no more than clead-reckoning to direct him may, probably, be six degrees wrong. It imports much to guaxd against this error ; keeping it in view that, in proportion as it will be easy for any one, making & landfall to windward of his port of destination, to mn down to it t so will be the mfficulty if he makes the landfall to leeward of his port, in beating up again in a sea wherein both the winds and currents are contrair. Even if bound to the coasts of the United States of America, it will be advisable to run into the limits of the trade winds, in order to get to the westward in as short a time as possible ; and although this mode may appear long, on account of having again, after crossing, to aup[ment the latitude, it will be sufHcient to keep in view the follow- ing maxim, to convince any one of the contrary : — j[f in the one way the distance is shorter, in the other the velocity with which the ship proceeds toward her port of destina- t'on more than balances it. There are, nevertheless, many occasions on which a vessel may run across to the American coast without reducing her latitude, and these occasions may be frequent in the forty or fifty days which rollow the two equinoxes, as epochs during which the N.E. winds generally prevail ; therefero vessels which, at these times, make their passages, may at once follow their voyage in high parallels, -without descending to low ones. In summer, as the region of the general or trade-winds extends to about lat. 28" 30' N., it follows that the round about is trifling ; and this circumstance ought to be attended to in the calcukwions which every captain of a ship ought to make before he fixes on the course he will pursue. Recapitulating what «v have said about the course which is most advisable for crosHing to the United States, from the coasts of the Peninsula, it follows that, if the winds permit it. West is the preferable course ; and, in case the winds will not allow of shaping that course, the most advisable track will be that which comes nearest to it, if tne voyage is made at the times above mentioned after the equinoxes ; but if at »ny other time, a course in the third qiiadrant [S.W.] should be preferred ; for this '.ill caiTy the vessel soonest into the general winds, with which the nece; -^ longi- tude may be shor' I v gained. Vessels bounu to Cuba during tb» ■ i.iy season, or sepson of the South winds, should paos to the northward of Porto Riv ;) and Hayti • 'out, during the Norths, they i ;!ted are, St. ," cessaiy, in ■ r'hH, tostner iward of ihe ought to go to the southwai-d of these islnnds. TV ' ports chiefly fn lago en the South, and Havana on the N.W. T* ■ and to the first, ; whatever se&son, to proceed directly to it, that is, ui the season of tli' iVom Cape Tiburon, to make some point on the South of Cuba to v>-: intenili'Q port; or even to '.yi'.idwiird cf Guantunamo j and, in the neasoii of the Souths, to steer from the Point of Mole St. Nicholas, almost Weat for the port, marking, in the first instance, various points on the coast of Cuba. 416 PASSAGES OVER THE ATLANTIC, i R -.♦ ^ bound to Havana, in the time of the Norths, you should pass to the southward df Cuba, although you will have to return the distance, between Cape Antonio and Havana ; because thjs inconvenience is not comparable to that which might be occa?* sioned on the North side of the island by a hard North, which would not only expose a vessel to heavy risks, but might protract the voyage much longer than the course above described, because th wo understand the space inluded between the meridian of the iJir Tortugai: end the parallel of Cape Canaveral, The simple inspection of the cha.<^ ■vdX show this to bp a bed or course, which, like a river, conducts the water to the nor! hward. This rivur, >r geoertJl c ,nTeni , flows first to the E.N.E. as far as the western i;ier.'l'an of the Doubk iikot iL^ys, by which Kays the stream is divided ftnmE.N.r. S) N. by S., the direction wKich it pursues on the paraUel of Cape Florida : thence It' Cn^e Canaveral ? ■ < ims North, with something of an inclination to the East. As it is undoubted that thig general current is caused by a superabundance of waters, which seek, by this ^rain, to regain their level in the open ocean, it follows that its rapidity will be greater or less, according to the said superabundance of waters : but, as a ^ange cannot be momentary, on account of the great reservoir in which the water is contamed, biU progressive, and, of course, slow, we hold that, having once ascertained the velocity of the current, we may calculate it for three days or more, in advance, without 'mv.ch error, if the wind remains in the same direction ; for an alteration in the wind may affect the force of the current considerably, as already explained. On the meridian of the Havana stripes of current are, at times, found setting to the E.S.E. and S.E. from the Tortugas Soundings.* Care should be taken not to confuse the southern differences, caused by this branch of the current, with those caused by the eddy current near the Colorados ; the one giving eastern de- parture, the other West. The distinction is very clear, and can admit of no doubt, becAuse the eddy current is met only from the meridians of Cavanas and Bahia Honda to Cape Antonio, and not farther out from the coast than the parallel of 93°. As the velocity of the current varies, it is requisite for every navigator to ascertain its strength ae A-equently as possible, while within the stream. Every one who crters this channel, naving marked well either the lands of Cuba or the Florida Keef, so as accurately to establiHn this point of departure, ought to determine; in his ^rst day's work, the velocity of the r— -t by the difference of latitude by account and observation. We say, duiing th^ ai^ '. day's work, because the generahty of comm^tn navigators make use of meridian altitudes of tho Hun alone to find the latitude ; but it is very clear that aWttulett of the planets t.td fixed stars ought not to be neglected ; not only because by this you cannot be in doubt of your real latitude, but also, because they may be more exact than latitudes deduced from meridional altitudes of the sun, when that luminary passes in the proximity of the senith,and because these repeated oh- terrntions, during the night, assure, as much as possible, the sicanfion of the ihip. Th « ou may go on, with a clear idea of the operation of the cui'iojit, -"' 1;a va^ tbu?, ' g ascertained the velocity of the curr" 1, use can be^iti8. i:.11'-32 for an account of the Coimter Currents. TO AND FROM THE WEST INDIES. *tT southward df Antonio and ight be occar t only expose n the course up in a short y easily make from Havana u bad charts he current is the meridian inspection of cts the water LE. as far as am is divided illel of Cape inclination to abundance of in, it follows ice of waters : in which the , having once lays or more, ition; for an :y, as already ound setting Id be taken surrent, with eastern de- >f no doubt, )ahia Honda 93°. to ascertain sry one who ^lorida Keef, in hwjirst account and of comm.'tn ititude; but neglected ; itlao, because of the sun, repeated 0(1- hip. Th. M . va;*' tbu?, un be MvAii >rtant wh( .. 'vanting a in ^ont of lurse which ;'ie current gives ; and which, though it will not give the position of the ship with that precision T/ith which it might be obtained by latitude observed, will still approximate suffi- jiently to the truth to enable one to avoid danger, if prudence and seaman-like conduct are combined. For those who have little experience in the art of navigation, we add — *1. — '^^i it is most convenient to direct your cotirse in mid-channel 5 not only becavfe it is the farthest from danger, but because you will there have the strongest current, which is desirable. 2. — Chat, as you cannot ascertain, with all necessary certainty, the position of the ship, notvnthstanding the rules given to diminish the errors occasioned by the currents, you ought, with the utmost care, to shun the eastern coast o' Florida, as beiny very dangerous, the trade-wind blowinj^upon it; while there is not the least risk m running along the Salt Kay Bank, and the edge of the Qrcat Back of Bahama. Upon the latter, also, you meet with good anchorages, very fit to lie in during the hard northerly gales experienced between November and March, and which do not fail to cause many damages, and sometimes evfen force vessels to bear away, which is always dangerous, for the weather is always thick with such winds, and the worst case will be to run in one of them upon the coast of Cuba, when hopmg to have made Havana or Matanzas. Hence, therefore, so soon as there is an appearance of a North, the best way is, if near the Salt Kay Bank, to anchor on it ; and, if near the Great Bank, to approach the edge of it, in order to be able to anchor when it may be necessary ; for although you may have a hard North, so long as you can lie-to in it, you ought to pursue your navigation, as the current will certainly carry the ship through the strait. 3. — ^It is very necessary to sight the Kays on the Salt Kay Bank, even though you have no fear of a North ; and there may be occasions in which every exertion i^ould be made to make them ; especially if, from want of observations, the situation of the ship is not well known. 4. — ^When, owing to calms or light winds, a vessel is in danger of being carried through the strait by the current, she ought immediately to approach the edge of the Salt Kay Bank, or of the Great Bank, to descend from it to the coast of Cuba, without trying to beat down the lost ground ; for, by doing this, she would only render the being earned through more certain. * 5. — Should you involuntarily approach the coast of Florida, you should take ex- traordinary care to examine wnetncr you have advanced out of the general cuiTent and into the eddy. That you may know this, observe, the eddy forms a remarkable and visible line between it and the general current, which line of division is, in many places, out of sight of land ; that, in general, you have no soundings on it ; and that it shows, not only by the change in the colour of the water, but that also in it, during the greatest calms, there is a kind of boiling or overflowing of the water. From this Ime of division the water gprodually changes colour $ so that, near the Florida Kays, it is of a beautiful sea-green, and at last it becomes almost as white as milk. :■ 7 6, — ^When in the eddy you have to make the correction of currents on courses entirely different from those in the stream. This is the more necessary to be rc- markea, because, from ignorance of this circumstance, several have been ship- MTecked. 7. — \\Tien you enter the chamel, or strait, from the Tortugas Soundings, with the ini 'ntion of jiosbint' through, t'lke rare to become certain of the land of Cuba, or some p. t of thr K«;irof f 1(. 'da, i'i order to have a good point of departure ; for, although the latitude 1 and Houndiiigs on the Tortugas Bank are more than sufficient to ascertain the place of the ship, yet the variable set of the current tov^ard the Havana may pro- duce a seriuus error, if not properly attended to. Tlie meridian of the Havana is, in a word, tie best point of dcparluiv for ships bound to the north-eastward. 3 u 418 PASSAGES OVER THE ATLANTIC, "i ■ •' On Pboceedino to the Windwabd ob Caribbee Islands. As to choosing the North or South part of any of these isles for making yonr land- fall, you ought to consider, Jirat, which point is nearest to the port or road to which you are destined ; and, secondly, the season in which you go. In the dry season, it is to be remembered that the winds are generally irom the north-eastward, and in the rainy season they are often from the south-eastward. Thus, in the di^^ season, it is best to make the North side, and, in the wet season, the South, bat without losing sight of the first consideration. There can be no mistake in recognising any of the Antillas ; nor, in making St. Bartholomew's and St. Martin^ alone, can there be any doubt on seeing at once the eminences or heights of various islands. That this may not mislead any one, they must remember the rollowing instructions : — When in the parallel of St. Bartholomew's, at less than 4 leagues off, if there be no fog or haze, the Islands of St. Eustatius, Saba, St. Oiristopher's, Nevis, and St. Martin's, appear plainly. The mountain cf St. Eustatius forms a kind of table, with uniform declivities to the East and West : the top is level ; and at the East part of this plain a peak rises, which makes it very remarkable. To the West of the mountain seems to be a great strait, la consequence of the lands near it being under the horizon (or seeming drowned), and to t' e West of that there then appears, as it were, another long low island, the N.W. part of which is highest ; but it is necessary not to be deceived, for all that land is part of the land of St. Eustatius. From this station Saba appears to the N.W. } it is not so high as St. Eustatius, and apparently of less extent than the western part of St. Eustatius, which is seen insulated. The 3r. fF. /)ar< o/' St. Christopher's is also seen formed by great mountains, in appearance as elevated as St. Eustatius, with low land to the East ; to the eastward of this low land Nevis will be seen apparently higher than all the others. The lands of St. Martin's are notably higher than those of St. Bartholomew's 5 and this island appears also when you oi'e some leagues farther from it than from St. Bartholomew's. When there are any clouds which hinder St. Mai tin's from being seen, there may be some hesitation in recognising St. Bartholomew's ; and thus it is proper to notice that the latter, seen upon its own parallel, appears small, and with four peaks, trending North and South, and occupying almost its whole extent ; and, if you are not more than 8 leagues from it, you will see, also, the appearance of an islet to the North, and anotL; r to the South, at a very short distance. As this island has neither trees, high moixucains, nor thickets, it is not subject to fogs ; and it may therefore be seen oftener thaa St. Martin's, St. Christopher's, Nevis, St. Eustatius, and Saba ; it is therefore advisable to keep its appearance in mind. At 8 leagues to the East of St. Bartho' omeVs you may see Nevis, very high; from it to the West the strait called the Narrows, and then the lands of St. Chris- topher's, appearing to rise out of the water, and which continue increasing in height to the westward, so that the westernmost of two mountains, which are at the West part of it, is the highest. Tliis mountain, which is higher than that called Mount Misery, has, to the West of it, a gentle declivity, terminating in low land ; and it cannot be mistaken for any other. To the West of this you may also see the large strait toward St. Eustatius ; but from this situation you will see only the high S.E. part of that island, or rather, its mountain, in consequence of which it appears like a very small island, while its mountain seems to be lower than Mount Misery ; but it is easily known by the table, which ite top forms, by the uniform delivities to the East and West, and by the perk on the S.E. part of it. Saba seems, pears like isery; but itics to the this situa- i eminence that must lug ucmFcF, Particular Instructions for the Navigation of the Windward - • Islands, &c. , ' ' , ' It has been remarked, by an e: perienced captain in the Royal Navy, that for those bouTid to Jamaica or to any of the porta in the northern range of islands (the Bahamas excepted), the safest land to is the Island of Desirado, near Quada- loupe ; for, if you should not see other 1 j ^etbro dark, you may haul to the north- ward, into the latitude of MuutMcrrat, hty^mg nearly 60 miles to run on, during the night. Some commanders make St. Martin's or St. Bartholomew'b, when bound to Tortola, St. Thomas's, St. Croix, and the islands to leeward ; but in this ose they should be aware of the dangerous Island of Barbuda, and also of Anguii. for a small error in the latitude, perhaps, fi.-om want of an observation, or irrcgi\.. / in the current, wovld place them in a very perilous situation, should they attc. apt to run on in the night. Strangers should pass St. Martin's, when they make it, on the North side, the passage oetween it and AnguiUa being clear ; St. Bartholomew's, Nevia, St. Christo- pher's, and Antigua, on the South side. Barbadqes should likewise be passed on the South side, in order to fetch into Carlisle Bay ; and Granada and St. Vincent's on the South side. No particular direv: > <. o necessary for the other islands, as every seaman knows the danger of rumung to leeward or past the land j — a very serious occurrence for a dull sailing-vessel. Vesaela on making Barbados and the other Wtndvard Islands, when approaching from the northward, should be very carefiil not io cross the latitude of the low or nortlicm islands during the night, although their reckoning may bo many degrees to the eastward of the isles. The low islancU on which so many vessels have been lost, are Barbuda, Anguilla, Dog and Prickly Pear, Sombrero, Anegada, and its Horse-ahoe Beef: of all these, the first and last are the most dangerous. Before you see Ane- gada, in clear weather, Virgin-Oorda, and pei'haps Tortola, will be seen very dis- tinctly ; distance is o^n deceiving at sea, and this land, by those not well acquainted with it, has been frequently mistaken for the East end of Porto Rico ; and, although directions have been given for avoiding this error, by observing that there is uiily 4S0 PASSAGES OVEB THE ATLANTIC, i open sea to the eastward of Virgin-Oorda, and that to the eastward of Porto Rico lie ■everal islandiij yet it is necessary to observe that these islands, when the hu^h land of Porto Rico is first discovered, cannot be seen, so that, if you muke the land at the dIobo of day, it is proper to be aware of this oirumstanoe. It may be c^so remarked, that Angmlla ana the Dog and Prickly Pear Isles cannot be seen u .til some time after you make St. Martin's, which is high land, and lying to the southward of tliose low isles. Barbuda is not dangerous in the night-time only, but to strangers oliio in the day, having ree£> under water all round, excepting at the extreme S.W. point. Onpaaaing to leeward of the high islands which obstruct the course of the trade- wind, danger arises ttova strong gusts coming from the mountains, which sometimes dismast a vessel. Be cautious to keep so far from such land as to be able to work vour shiu, should the wind suddenly shift and blow on the shore, which it often does during tne day. When the wind is b^ing, you will find it advantageous to keep your course along shore so long as you have Bteoragu-way, although all your sails may no nl): ■■- , • it nrequently happciiH that the wind comes round to its lormei- quarter li^isita you iobe youx headway, and by this one ship may get into another current of air, which brings her into a fresh breeze, while another, in company, by altering her cours? to get her sails full, loses tiio opportunity of getting into the breeze, and may be detained by calms and bofliing winds groat pax t of the day. Wo have often seen the after-sails filled, with the wind aft, while the headHuils were flat aback, with the wind ahead, which continued so long that the foresail was hauled up to continue the headway. In navigating among the Windward Islands, every precaution must be taken in allowing for the direction and strength of the cuireiits. It has already been shown, in the preceding section, that the general prevalence of them is to the westward, but with dificrent vi'locili^s, distmbed at times by the lunar influence, and varied by the contour of the coast, &c. An easterly current is seldom or never found out of si^ht of land, but N.W. and noi-theiiy, vn the passages, may generally be found; unt! it has been remarked that, in some instances, when the current runs to lee- ward on one side it runs to ^ .dward on the ou • also, that it uiay set to wind- wai'd on both sides, while, at the same time, to Icewi d in the midi! ' , and frequently the reverse. The intelligent officer to whose book wo are indebted for these observatioi^p, says, " In the daytime, attention to the progress you make ii ting to windward, by the appcai-ance or bearings of the land, is the best rule you > ..ii have, first trying a Aiort tack ill-shore, where, if you make little or no progress to windwrn', your best way is to stand across, and try the other side of the cnannel ; and, if tl do not answer, the mid-channel will most likely prove the best; for, although eon .ry to the general opinion, we have often found it so ; much, however, deiKJuds on tlu; time of day. In the morning and evening you should endeavour to be near the shore, the North side of til [)as8age in preference, where, if the wind be moderate, and the coast not much exposed to the general trade- wind, you are pretty certain of having the wind two or tlu'cu points more off the luud. In like manner, you should endeavour to be in the oifing about one o'elock p.m., as the wind generally blows more on the shore at that time We have cUo obsen'od that the land and sea breezes prevail most where the land )< the coast is low. " SAr.f '>l you be hound to a plrre to the eastward of you, and no land in the way, the best i . ..i to be upon is the one on which you will lie up nearest to E. by N., that ingth< point from which the trade-wind generally blows ; when it changes from t poi t you may consider it a slant of wind, and take advantage of it accordingly— ^articul rly if it veer to the South during the day, or to the North by night ; thus it svill be 1 lund to be advantageous to bo on the port tack at night, and the starboard tack by day." In squally weather the wind is so very variable, that it is seldom possible to take advantage of it in getting to windward. To windward of the islands N. hour, of Pot Wo hs point Lucia, >rto Rico lie e high land land at the remarked, 1 aome time mthward of to strangers :treme S.W. f the trade- h sometimes Me to work it often does x)us to keep ur soils may mei- quarter r current of altering her Kc, and may ro often seen ?k, with the I to continue bo taken in been shown, e westward, !, and varied r found out ly be found; runs to lee- ict to wind- 1 frequently ation^, says, ('^ard, by the ving a Aiort best way is lot answer, the general f day. In North side it not much vind two or bo in the lore at that where the to AND FROM THE WEST INDIES. 4»1 10 way, the by N., that aiiges from ordingly— it ; thus it c starboard ble to take rate tradt \ i, the Equatorial current will be found generally to set in a direotioH flrom N.W. b^\ \. to N. by W. at the rate of from half a mile to three-quarters of a mile an h()ur. As you approach the islands, it becomes more irregular ; near to tiie eastward of Point Salines, Martinique, it frequently sets strong to the North, and even N.E. Wo liavo also felt this set of the current near to Point Moulacique, the South Ejint of St. Lucia, and have fre(]^uently seen vessels bound to Gros Islet Bay, St. ucia, from Barbados only the night before, driven so far to the North as to have passed the Island of St. Luoio, and also a considerable part of Martinique, before they disooverud their mistake ; and, being strangers, they had to wait until an ob- servation oould be token to ascertain the lotituiu, before they could find out their true situotion. In thep(M8€uiea luing nearly in a North ami South direction, the current sets gene- rally about N.N.W., until you are post the most northerly land on the eastern side of the passage, when the western current, being no longer obstructed by the land, sets with gi-cat strength in a more westerly direction, lliis is the case in all the passages from Antigua to Hayti, and those on the South between Trinidad and Poria, and on the coast and liCoward Islands from Margarita to Buen-ayro, as the current inside to the South of these islands [in the dry season] sets about N.N.W. | W., at the rate of nearly 2 miles an hour. Ships running to westward, inside, should make an allow- ance lor it, and keep a good look out, ror it must be homo in mind, as already shown, that the currents hero are variable, according to the season. In order to touch at aa many of the Windward Islands as possible, without having to boat to windward ; — suppose your vessel to bo at Barbados, and you hove to coll at as many islands as you can, in as little time as possible — from Barbados you can steer fur Tobago, hence ror St. Vincent's, which is as far to windward as you can fetch ; and, with a northerly trade wind, you will not be able to do that. From St. Vin- cent's you may steer to any of tho Gronadincs, and so on to Granada ; and at times yuu may fetch Trinidad, but this is not to be depended on. From Granada yon can- not always fetch St. Kitt's, but in j^eneral, tho Virgin Islands, St. Croix, St. Thomas's, lie. The general course this way is to go to Tobago, and thence to Trinidad. Another track is from Barbados (S.W. dide) to St. Vincent's (South side), hence to tho Granadincs and Granada. From Barbados to tho N.W. you may go to St. Lucia, passing round the N.E. point of the island to Gros Islet Bay and the Careenage ; from this place you fetch Fort Royal Bay, Martinique, then St. Pierre, Uosoau (Dominica), the Saintes, Bosse-tcrre, and sometimes Point-o-Pitre, Guodaloupe. From Bassc-tcrre, Guodaloupe, you "ban seldom weather Montscrrat, unless you tack and take advantage of the variable winds under Guadaloupc, which is the best way, if you are bound to Antigua, or to the northward between Antigua and Nevis j but if not, you may pass close to the West side of Montscrrat, and so steer for Nevis or St. Kitt's, or to the islands to the westward ; or, you may pass on either side of St. Eustatius or Saba, if you can lie round without tacking, and so through the Dog and Prickly Pear or Sombrero passage to the northward. In steering through these pugHrijes, or across them, it is recommended to keep well to windward, as the wind ^«iIl often head you as you approach tho opposite side, and the currents are very strong ; and it may be remarked that, in standing to tho southward, you feel the force of the curi'ent more than when }'ou are standing to the northward. From these remarks, and a reference to the chart of the islands, it may be readily seen what other track con be accomplished. Thus, from Barbados to Antigua, and the islands to tho westward of it, you pass to tho eastward of Desirado if you can ; if not, between that island and tho East point of Guodaloupe ; when you ore clear of this lost point, you have Antigua and oil the islands to the westward lu your route. The intercourse between Barbados and Demarary is very uncertain, and you cannot always trust to fetch from one place to tho other, even in fast-soiling vessels. From Deiiierary you can generally weather Tobago ; of course, it must olways depend on the wiiid and cuiTcnt ; therefore we speak in general terms only. Indeed, we hove 422 PASSAOF-R OVER THB ATLANTIC, sometimefl seen floutherljr trtt 1 'tIdO^ continue for a long time, and also northerly winds ; and we have seen, ovlig iu X.E. winds and lee currents, vessels from Cay- enne not able to weather Barbados, and a vessel from Antigua a month in getting to Barbados, owing to southerly winds. In working to windward through any of thepastagea in the night time, it is stroi^ly recommended not to trust to the distance run ; for, although you mav have an offing of 4 leagues, and you could lie up so as to make a long stretcn, yet, before you have gone tile distance of your offing, you will probably find it fiiU time to tack from the shore. In the passages lying nearly East and West, the western current runs so swiftly, that, in standing to the southward on the port tack, and lying up S.E. by E., you will often find that you have made little or no easting. This has been the case with several vessels leavms the South shore of Antigua ; they stood on, lying up S.E. by E., which course they expected to make good, and thought perhaps to weather Point Antigua on Ouadaloupe, but the current deceived them, uttle or no easting had been made, and they ran ashore among the small kays off the Bay Mahaut, Giiada- loupe, nearly due South from that part of Antigua which they had left in the previous evening. When bound to windward it is sometimes difficult to beat through the passages be- tween the islands. Of these passages, the easiest are considered to be oetwcen St. Vincent's and Becquia, between Martinique and St. Lucia, and between Antigua and Ouadaloupe. The wind, in general, blows a strong breeze, so that a vessel may carry double-reefbd topsails, courses, top-gallant sails, jib, and driver. These are the most suitable sails for working the ship in the night, the weather in the passages being too generally squally. If more reefs are out, you will be liable to sprmg your masts and yards ; for, however fine the weather may appear, strong and sudden gusts may come on several times in an hour. Finally, too much sail is nazardous, as the squalls may head you until' they blow past, when you come up to your old point ; and in liiis way it is oDvious you may run a long way to leeward in carrying sail through a squall. .-<(.)- ■^'^ General Remarks on the Navigation of the Caribbean Sea, from Leeward to Windward, by Lieut. Greevelink. The best way to beat up in the Caribbean §ea is still an object of dispute among a great many European mariners ; there are some, and they form the gpreatest number, who always prefer the northern part ; others who choose to keep in the middle be- tween 14° and 16° of latitude ; and a few, to beat up off the southern coast, till they are able to make Antigua, and run out by tiie channel between that island and Ouada- loupe. Thejirst of these methods, the one generally adopted, is evidently the best ; as the South coasts of Hayti and Porto-Rico are tolerably clean, and am>rd smooth water when the wind is to the northward of East ; but in the hurricane months, this part is rendered unfavourable, not only by these dangerous visitors, but also because the cur- rents are then often very strong in the northern channels, whereas they have, at the same time, been observed to be very weak in those southward. The second route depends, I imagine, more on vague reports of a current setting between those parallels to the eastward ; but this wul, I trust, no longer be credited, at least, in the tract of sea here described. During the intervals, however, in which light winds are of some duration, the westerly current may be found very weak, as is undoubtedly proved by our passage in April, 1837. fSee the entry of that month, " Col. Nav.," vol. iii., p. 26.) Yet this is ao reason wny a constant weak current, or an easterly one, shoula be stated when found only occasionally in those parts whcie they have once been met with. The third route, by which the hurricanes arc generally avoided, has been treated with too much negli ct, partly by its being impeded by the Leeward Islands, and TO AND FROM THE WEST INDIES. 423 partly bj the unknown force and direction of currents, and w.r.t of local experience of tile coast } but hereafter I doubt not but this track will b. (uiopvi as the best in those months which threaten destruction in the northern pass ..^c.-. >> .cause it is almost oniTersally followed by the coasters and pilots. Commanders bound from one of the interior parts of the Caribbean Sea, toward the coast of Guyana, generally prefer passing out by the channel of Antigua and Ouadaloupe, which is one of the fittest for that purpose with northerly winds ; but when, on the contrary, the wind is from the southward of East, I should not advise any attempt to pass that way, but to proceed directly to the North, by the westward of Barbuw, prolonging the stretch well, in order to gain at once. With the other tack, the windward side of the islands. In July, 1836, we laboured for several days to get out of the first-mentioned passage ; and in August, 1835, we were happy enough to reach Enjo^lish harbour, though unable to effect our purpose of gettmg into the main sea, bemg harassed by south-easterly winds and strong westerly currents. j^fter having reached the Atlantic, when destined toward the coast of Guyana, it is best to keep your wind, if blowing from the northward of East ; as, in that case, it may enable you in one stretch to make the desired port ; but, with unfavourable winds, I think it advisable to run straight for the coast, and beat to windward along the bank of soundings. This is most probably attended with less loss of time than the working to the eastward in higher latitude, which may be proved beyond any doubt by comparing some of the many instances which have occurred of vesseb fSedl- ing to leewara of their port of destination, and trying to regain it by mqjung a a bng stretch to the northward ; when, after fourteen days, they made the coast nearly at the same place : with those of others who effected it completely in only three or four days, m the space mentioned. I know many reports of this sort, but they want sufficient authenticity to be relied on. As a general remark, it may be kept in mind that to get soondings ought to be the Srincipal object of ships bound to this coast, as, with the present knowledge of epths hereabout, together with an observefi latitude, it may show them their place of situation East or West of the intended place very near the truth, because the general tendency of the mud-bank is nearly N.W. and S.E. : and thus, to the eastward of a certam meridian, there will be found more water than to the westward, upon the same parallel. It is absolutely erroneous to state, that the limit of soundings is marked by the change in the colour of the water ; as more than once, and particularly in November, 1834, in 25 fathoms of water, to the N.E. off Marowyne luver, the colour was per* fectly blue and transparent, and at other times tinged of on ashy hue by the mud. Bebmudas to the Windward Islands, &c. Mr. Henry Davy, in his description of the passage of H.M,S. Cornwallis, between the Bermudas and the West India Islands, with the return toward Halifax, in the winter of 1837, states as follows : — From Bermuda to Barbados, instead of steering direct, I would recommend a S.E. by S. course. I'he advanta^ of this will be apparent, should the trade wind be to the southward of East, and it is also a precaution against a leewardly current. We left Bermuda on the 26th of November, 1837, and, pursuing the above course until fairly in the trade, anchored at Barbados on the 6th of December. Made the North end of the island at four a.m. at daylight, appearing in a long and very low point. While on the starboard bow Kitridge Point* made equally so, with Eitridge Point is the S.E. point of the island. 424 PASSAGES OVER THE ATLANTIC, extenrive breakers far out. We rounded the island at a distance of 2 miles, the coast preaenting saccesrive low points, encompassed with breakers, and came to anchor in OarUth Bay. The Comtoattia next passed the Oranadines, and the lofty summit of Granada became visible at noon of December 10th, as the heavy clouas rolled away to the westward. The ship then proceeded to the anchorage on the S.W. side of Granada. Here, in 16 fathoms, a tide set past the ship to the S.S.W. at the rate of 2 miles in the hour ; at midnight the ship tended, and the tide set through to the eastward, 8t the same rate. At eight a.m. of the following day it again made to the S.S.W., and by ten its rate was 9 miles. This tide renders the spot valuable as a temporary auuhorage. From the information of the harbour-master it appears that, at the springs, the tide here obtains a rate of 4 to 5 knots ; that it is strong among the Granadincs, at St. Vincent's, and to the southward of Granada toward Trinidad. He was also of opuiion that throughout the range of the Caribbean Islands the tides wcru of more cohhc- quence thui as hitherto considered ; and it appears probable that many of the accounts which reach us respecting the currents in opposite directions, often in the same places, may be the efiPect of tides. At sunset of the 11th of December, tho Comwallis, full of troops, set sail for Halifax. Mr. Davy says, " A fine moonlight evening followed ; tho ship gliding along the western coast, as we shaped a course for St. Kitt's, which I should always recommend to vessels intending to take tho Anegada Channel. At sunset, Mont- serrat, iledonda, Nevis, St. Christopher's, St. Eustatius, and Saba, were in sight. At ten we passed between St. Eustatius and Saba, closiiig Saba to within 2 miles. When its Nortn point bore West 3 miles, steered N.N.W. for Dog Island and Hat Hay. At half-past three in the middle watch, we mado the Dog Islands. At six a.m. Sombrero bore E.N.E., and at eight we were fairly clear of the West Indies, and steering oway N.W. for Halifax, with the trade wind at E.N.E. No variation. Thermometer 80° ; temperature of the surface water, 78°. From this to the parallel of Bermuda the temperature of the >*ater changed from 78° to 68°. Here, in 33° North latitude, we e^ichanged the ilying fish for the stormy petrel. The north-westerly winds have a greot ascendency at this period, and prevail over every other quarter. I would, therefore, advise making tho most of the trade, and steering away N.N.W., continuing to make as much westing as will ensure fetching HaliiSuc with the prevailing wind. Steam Navigation between Tobago and Demeuara. Wc take tho following from a beautifully illustrated work,* which gives numerous directions for the West Indies : — " Between Tobago and Trinidad the current sets strong towards tho W.N.W. ond W.S.W., almost always at the rate of 2 knots per hoxir, and not unfrcqucntly 3 or 4 knots. " After clearing the channel, the stream will generally bo found running nearly ftarallel with the lino of coast tho whole distance to Demerara, though it somctinius •ikes a more northerly direction, particularly in the months of July, August, and September. " In shaping a course, therefore, for Demerara, vessels should keep well to tho east- ward of the port, not only to avoid the banks off tho mouth of tno Essequibo, but • " Practiral Obnorvntionn on tho West India Navigation," by a Commander of ono cf the Koyal Mail Stoara Pn"' ■ \m. London, 1844. les, tho coast to anchor in of Granada away to the of Granada, e of 2 miles ie eastward, the S.S.W., I temporary ngs, tho tide lines, at St. 30 of opinion more consc- the accounts same places, set sail for hip gliding ould always inset, Mont- i sight. At ilos. When d Hat Hay. \.t six a.m. Indies, and variation, the parallel ore, in 33° )rcvail over trade, and ire fetching TO ^^D PROM THE WEST INDIES. 425 I numerous .N W. ond iitly 3 or 4 ng nearly somctinius igust, and tho ea«t- 'f/uibo, but because the objects to the eastward are more remarkable, which ia of the utmost con- sequence on a coast where its features bear one uniform appearance, without a hiU^ the bearing of which would point out a shi^s position ; and the land so low thai vessels may be agpround before it is visible. The lead will be. found the best ^ide, as the soundings very gradually decrease, and there is no danger while navigating in 7 fathoms water. "> " The most remarkable features of the coast eastward of Oeorge Town are the chimneys of the boHituhhouses, and a remarkable row of cabbage treea about 12 miles from tiie KglUhotue. There is also a singular tree about 15 miles from the point of Corobana, called General Murray'a I^ee ; it is tami ooDa|Eiottous when seen at the termination of a point. • a» ^u ■ «1^> i.i> i" ^v (lor of one Navigation to Jamaica vid St. Juan, Porto Rico, Cape Hattibn, AND St. Jago de Cuba. Steamers leaving St. Thomas's to perform the Jamaica route, vid the north side of Porto jRico and Hayti, should leave the small islet of Bergantin (which b a hi(^h rock resembling a ship when at a distance) on their left ; and Montalean and Cabrtto on their right, bearing in mind that a reef extends firom Montalvan a good cable's length. ■ *' After passing CuUibra and Culcbrito, I shonld recommend shapLig a course to pass outside a rock on which the Barossais said to have stnick ; for although it seems to be doubtful, yet masters of Porto Itico vessels have assured me it does exist. From their statements I am inclined to believe that it is considerably nearer the shore. " San Juan Harbour will readily be distinguished by the Mora, which, when first seen, makes like an island having extensive fortification on its summit, rendering it exceedingly remarkable. " This Mora Castle is on the east side of tb'? entrance, and is stoep-to within a half-cable's length on its noiihern side, llie position to lie-to for a pilot is about two cables north of the Moro, with the ship's head off-shore, taking great care not to drift near the low ro^ky island on the western side of the entrance, which has much foul ground aiourd it; and the current generally setting strong in that direction. " Tho harbour is not difficult of access by day, but at times the sea breaks right across the entiance, which calls for the promptest attention ut the holm. '* I do not consider it safe at any time to enter this port at night in large ships. Rise and fall of tide, 2 feet. " From San Juan a course should be shaped so as tc> pass or 7 miles from CaiH) Viejo PVanjais (Ha^-tiJ, making allowance for a current which so's towards the Porto Rico coast, when withm the distance of ten miles fVom the shore. The first land that will be scon on this track (after losing sight of Porto Rioo^ will be Catuf Jtaphael, which is of moderate height, and is the teimination of tne high land ; the coast thence to Cmw Enqano being exceedinglv low. Raphael may aimj bo known by a small conical hill {Mt. Redonda), a short distance inland, which, on coming firom the N.W., is seen near the termination of the point. " llic next ca;K< to the N.W. is Cape Sainana, which makes like an island on many bearings, particularly 'Vom the N.W. After passinf^ Cape Satnana, Cape Viejo Fran- cois will be Mi-n. which a)«> makes like aii island ^ith low points at eaoh rAireniiiy. ** Cape Ibabslla is the next headland, which is very low, and, like Cnpe Virjo 3 u 426 PA;;.SAGES OVER THE ATLANTIC, li'angait, also makes like an island. Between these two capes there is a remarkalJA high hill, sloping down to the water's edge, with a flat summit, and a remarkable notch on its extremity when seen from the N.W. Thb land is Cape Caarouge. " The Orange is the most remarkable object, and cannot be mistaken for any other part of the coast if attention be paid to the book of directions. " Vessels may pass inside the Monte Christi Shoals ; but as the channel is not well known, I have invariably gone outside, on the principle that a steamer's progress is so rapid through the water, that in a very short period of time after shoal water is descried, the vessel is on shore. ' Although I have adopted tliis line of route, I have on foimer occasions in H.M. ships passed inside, and am well aware that there is a good channel ; but a large chart of this portion of the coast should be in possession of the commander before he navigates his ship in doubtful water. " Cape Haytien is a hi^h cape, sloping down towards the East, and having a small rock, called Picolet, at its foot, presenting the appearance of a white patch when first seen from the eastward. The water is deep tolerably close to this rock, and it may be approached to the northward withoi t f^ar. " I should, however, recommend all vessels to go in at slow speed, with strict attention to the lead, as the late earthquake is likely to have changed the face of nature in the bottom of the sea, as well as on the land. " From Cape Haytien, the course should be shaped to pass between the Tortngas and Hayti, in which channel there is always much less sea than outside, besides being a more direct course. " St. Jaoo de Cuba. — This harbour cannot bo taken at night, and never even diu-ing the day without a pilot, as it is exceedingly narrow, and the greatest atten- tion is required at the helm, owing to the sudden turnings in the channel. " From St. Jago de Cuba to Movant Point, I would recommend a course to bo shaped (during night-time) 15 miles to the West of the Formigas, as I have on more than one occasion experienced a set in their vicinity of half a mile an hour to the N.E. This is by no means a usual occurrence, but, knowing the existence of devia- tions from the general set of the stream, it iw as well to be on the guarded side, nnro especially as the saving in the distance is vt \-v trifling. " MoRAT«T Point is very low, with a lighthome upon its extremity having an ex- cellent revolving light, which may be seen 16 or 18 miles distont. From the Point to the Keys of Port Royal it is only necessary to run down about two miles off shore, taking great care at night to avoid the low land about Cowbay Point, which is very deceiving. " On returning by this route, the foregoing observations will be equally available. It is, however, perhaps as well to observe, that after leaving St. Jago de '('ubu great advantage may be gained by keeping about two miles off" shore, where •'here is frequently a weatherly set, and invariably less cun'cnt. " In making Porto Rico from the westword the land is low, gradually rising to i' high chain of liills ; thence trending East, it a^in falls, nnd then rise's to another chain of mountains called Luqttilloc, which terminate in low land at the eastern ex- tremity of the island. St. Juan may bo known bv its situution between the above two ranges of mountains^ and by having on its VVcst side a numl>er of remiirkuble hillocks in the form of haycocks, which are frcquentlv seen before the Mora hHows itself; but the fortiticatious are most commonly the nrst objects descried. I would also caution vessels to be extremely jjuarded at night, in not mistaking the chnnm 1 between Culebra and Porto Rico, which is exceedingly dangerous. The dihtnnee niu by the ship after leaving St. Juan will of course l>e a good guide, but between August and October the current* arc often so variable, that the most careful navigator may be deceived in hazy weother, or at night, ns there is under theso eireunistanees a great rcsei-rblanee between Culebra and above rcniurkuble loro Hhows I would ho ohniiiHl iNtniioe nm bet ween I iiuvigiitor nistaneos a ', if hvvn thrrti smali tb* Porto Rtco coast and Hduti to the northward to be as follows, though the very unusual state of the weather in the West Indies of late has rendered these very uncertain, and there- fore great cai-e should be taken in ascertaining the direction of the stream, always distrusting published accounts. " Between 18° 29' North latitude and Porto Rico, the current generally sets obliquely on the shore towards the E.S.E. Between 18° 29' N. and 18° 39' N. it runs to the E.N.E. To the northward of this latitude the stream takes a more northerly direction, particularly in the vicinity of the banks of the Bahamas. " To the distance of ten miles along the Hayti North Coast the current frequently rims strong towards the shore, but beyond that distance it takes the direction of the coast " During the hurricane months it should bo remembered, that tho currents are more uncertain than at any other period. ,- .... , ,,- i ..... Navigation between Grenada and Jamaica, along the South Side op . Hayti to Jacmel. " Leaving the island of Grenada, the current will almost invariably be found set- ting between W.S.W. and W.N.W., but more commonly in the former direction than the latter. It is generally strongest between December and April, and of least force in the hurricane months ; indeed, betweej July and October, (on reference to fijirmer journals,) I find not infrequent 1 2ia to the East and N.E., particularly when hurri- canes have visited any part of the West Indies ; but except in these months it is veiy rare to find the stream deviating from the W.S.W., W., or W.N.W. " Alto Vela. — This little island lies about 16 miles S. | E. from Beata Point, in lat. 17" 28' 40; N., and long. 71° 39' 30 W., and is directly in the fairway of the steamers coming from Grenada to Jucmel. It is high, ban*cn, and quite bold close to, and may be seen 25 or 30 miles distant, making in a peak. " The course from this island {Alta Vela) to Jacmel is N.W. ^ W., about 67 miles ; on which line vessels will make the Frai/les, which lie about 10 mil'js from Beata Inland. They are a cluster of steep ;"e(/at«A-coloui ed roc^s, and are said to be steep •luite close tc . though from the imperfect survey cf this part of the coast I would advise shij.s to give them a l>orth of a mile at least. For the above reason, also, I would not take the channel between Alta Vela and Beata Island, as scarcely anything iif to be gained by it. " The current most commonly sets very strong to the westward in the vicinity of these islpnd^ ; but after p insing the Frayles Rocks a strong S.E. set is frequently ex- pcrier.ceil, jiarticularly dnring the night, when the trade does not blow home. " From Jacmel to Jamaica, shape a course so as to pass r> miles clear of the Isle of Vtche, which is about 8 or nine miles in length, and makes like e group of small islands when first seen, particularly from the westward. The current between -Ihis iHland, an(.^ along-shore to Jacmel, generally sots to tho westward, but when within a or (5 miles of the shore, an easterly sot is frequently experienced, particularly at night. " The first headland after passing the hie of Vache is called Abacou Point, low at its extremity, then suddenly rising to a moderate height. " The next cape to the westward is Cope (iraroia, which is very low, the land l>c- tween bi>ing of a mtKlerato and e.jnal hoiglit. From tliis cape io Tiburun the laud brromes very high. Tlie cape itwelf (Tiburon) is of moderate' height, l»ut a short dis- tance from its extreiuity it suddenly rises to a high mountain, and when first made from the «eu, appears to slope down to the water's edge. level, aaJ eovrnd with (roes. fjiiriiuiiy oi jtayit, ana is very low, In running past this island, shoal water will Ih' seen 42S PASSAGES OVER THE ATLANTIC, some distance firom the shore. At night I would recommend running 10 or 12 milefe to the eastward of the reckoning, when bound through the Mono Ptutage, as it is the turning point, and bein^ verv low, ships would be in the reefia before seeing the land, except with clear nights. r'-v «/.v'i \\ -''>'-" .-■i .'/ ,.>-?■ r..u- Passages between Jamaica and Yucatan, Chaobe, Cabtaoena, Mabacatbo, Sec. To THE Bat of Hondubas ; hj the late Mr. Johnson Cafes, a Constant IVader. Take your departure from the West end of Jamaica, and steer W.S. W. by compass, until you get into lat. 16° 35' ; then run on that parallel till you make the Island of Bonacca, the latitude of which is 16° 30', long. 85° 47' West. (The northern and easternmost part of the island is here meant.) Bonacca is a bold high island, and may be made by ni^ht, if required ; as I do not know of any danger that extends more than 1 or 2 miles off on the North side. Some navigators endeavour to make Swan Islands, but that cannot be of any advantage to them, and is the contrary ; for, if you expect to be near them in the night, you get very anxious, as they are very low, and you may run on them before you perceive your danger. I always give them a good berth, that is, keep to the southward ; for tne current about these islands is very deceiving and uncertain ; but, for the most part, sets to the northward and west- ward. In one of my voyages to the bay, I was set 34 miles to the northward, and 64 miles to the westward, of account. Bonacca ought to be made early in the day, so that yon may run down to the middle or West end of Kuatan by the evening, to be ready to take your departure for the Southern Four Kays, at six, seven, or eight o'clock, accoi'ding to the breeze you have. If you take your departure from the middle of Ruatan, steer W.N. W. J W., making that course good, in order to avoid Glover's Reef to leeward, and on no account what- ever nm more than 45 miles from Ruatan before daylight ; if you run more than that distance, you are in danger of running your vessel on the reef, where there is no possibility of saving her, for in a short time she will be a perfect wreck. At day- light make all sail possible, and if you do not see the kays, you will soon lift them. The principal kay is called Half-Moon Kay, owing to its having a sandy bay, in the shape of a half-moon ; on this kay is the Lighthouse, elevated about 50 feet from the surface of the sea ; its latitude is 17° 12' North, and longitude 87° 32' West. On this kay the pilots live ; a set uf useftil, active, steady, sober men. These kays ought to be made as early in the day as possible, in order to ensure you an anchorage before night. It frequently happens that vessels, after leaving Ruatan, arc becalmed during the night I and, in consequence, they will not mako Half-Moon Kay before the afternoon. In this case, I would advise the master to brace sharp up, on a wind, and beat to windward all night, tucking everv two hours ; for, it is to be particularly noticed that the current sets strongly aown on the Southei'n Four Kays Reef. S^' xtoI vessels have been lost on this reef, owing to their lying-to ; but by Keeping the light in sight till morning, it will be sufficient to prevent accident by maiutaming yuiir position till you get a pilot, or till you have the day before you. If it should happen that the pilote are all in Balize (which is very seldom the case), YOU must make all sail possible. Keep a man at the mast-head, and you will soon aisecrn a kay, called Ifat Kay ; it is about the site of a long-boat, wit^ trees upoji it. You may round the reef, within 2 or 3 cables' length, as there is no danger but what you ma}' see, for soundings extend but a short distance from the blue water. After you have ntunded the elbow of the reef, steer West, and you will very soon lift th« low iiuid of Tunieft'; at flie South end of this marith is a little kay, called by thr pilots Kiiif-BvM, with seyeral cocoa-nut trees un«»!i it. (For- '•• "•'■* "•'•>"-» —• V 1" TO AND FROM THE WEST INDIES. 489 \ or 12 milei fe, as it is the ■e seeing the i^ ^ - ■ }ENA, jtant IVader. by compass, ;he Island of lorthem and island, and that extends our to make mtrary; for, ey are very m g^ve them !8e islands is rd audwest- rard, and 64 lown to the ir departure e breeze you W., making count what- more than ) there is no At day- n lift them, dy bay, in >out 50 feet 7° 32' West. Ihese kays L anchorage during the ! afternuon. Eind beat to rly noticed ■ Several the Uglit ining yoiir seldom tlie [ you will wit^ trees no danger jlue water. •y soon lift l»'d by thf K«.0&ur«4 Wit this kay, asid now frequently rendezvous here.) You may round tihis kay by your lead I and, if it be later than three p.m., you must anchor here for the night. The anchorage is about 1| miles from the kay, with its beariiw E. by S- ; but your lead and your eye is the best pilot for this anchorage. You anchor on a fine white sand-bank ; the first soundings you will get are about 10 &thoms ; run into 3 or 4 fathoms, dueing your saUs up as tiast as possible, and giving the vessel at least 40 fathoms of cable ; for the sand is so. hard, that, with a short scope, you will certainly drift off the Imnk ; then you have no bottom. If this should bb the case, you must heave up immediately, and make sail again, to get on the bank. I anchored here one fine night about eleven p.m., let go my anchor in 5 fathoms, fave the ship 30 fathoms of cable ; she never looked at it, but drovs off the bank, f it had not been a fine night, I should have been compelled to cut from m^ anchor. I would not recommend any commander to anchor on this groxmd with a chain cable ; at any other part of the bay a chain is preferable. (This bank abounds with fish.) In the morning (if ^ou have not by this time obtained a pilot), get under weigh at daylight, and steer for English Kay. English Kat is situated on the South side of the channel, and is a small, low, sandy kay, with a few thatched houses on it, entirely shaded with tree^. It is distin- guished by a fiogstufi* 60 feet high, for signals, &c. On the opposite side of the channel, that is, on the North side, there is another kay of the same size, called OoJTa Kay, that has some rescmblanij^ of a saddle ; at about half a mUe to the eastward of ^rhIch is a little f^andpatch, nearly even with the water, called by the pilots the Sand Bore. This is the place you must anchor at, for it is impossible'for a stranger to pro- ceed any further without a pilot. In case the current or any other casualty should set you to the northward of Half- M'lon Kay, and you fall in with the middle of the Southern Four Kays Keef, I would still recommend you to haul the ship to the northward, and go round, the North end. On the North end of this reef is a kay, called by the pilots North Kay ; after j^ou round this kay, make all sail for Maugcr Kay, the northernmost kay off Turaeff ; after you round Mauger Kay, steer S.S.W., and you will soon litl English andOoff'sKay j then anchi <• as before oirected. On Returning from the Bat, I would recommend your taking the pilot as far as Mauger Kay, as I have known many vessels run upon Tumeff Reefs, owing to their having discharged the pilots at English Kay. Endeavour to leave Mauger Kay at the close of the day, so as to be the length of the Triangles by dayli^rht. There is a very dangerous reef on the West side of Vxn Triangles, that has picke 1 up many ships. The current, in general, sets rapidly to the westward, by the South end of the Triangles ; a ship snould, therefore, never attempt to pass to windward of this reef. On approaching the western edge of the Triangles, keep your lead going. From the channel within Maugor Kay, if the wind is free, steer North j if not, steer N. by E. After you are t<> the northward of the Triangles, shape your course for Cape Antonio, according to the instructions given in the " Colombian Navigator." From the Triangles the current runs from 10 to 30 miles per day to the northward j this I have aseeitaincd from the mean of twelve voyages. The Pbec^uino Directions were given by the late Captain C'r-^tea as the result of many years' experienco ; but it may be observed that they make no distinction for the SvuHon of the Norths, or northerly winds. The following, therefore, from the journals of Capt. Dunstervilk, It.N, will bo Uie more acceptable. Directions Jbr Sailing from Jamaica to Balize, in the Season of the Norths, or be- tween October and March : — 'lake your departure from Pedro Bluff or South Negril, keeping near the imrnllel of 18" N. until you have attained long. B7" W. Should you then get the wind from N.W. or N.N. W., which winds blow very otrongt you will fetch Mauger Kay, the northernnfjst kay of Tnrnett', on the starboard tack. Keep well to windward, m the I ._ ^U_ iU J 436 1>ASSAGES OVER THE ATLAJJTIC, Should the commander prefer going going in by Half-Moon Kay, whioh is, to my astonishment, the rout« of many (because the lighthouse serves as a guide), let it be remembered that the prevailing winds will not, in this season, allow you to lay from Hat Kay Reef to Kay-Bokel ; and it will also bo a dead-beat from thence to English Kay } wnereas, on the route prescribed, there is a fair wind direct to English Kay, in a course about S.S.W. 6 leagues. The " Colombian Navigator," which is an in- valuable work for these seas, has been led into this error, directed you to make Bonacca in lat. 16° 35', and those islands which lie contiguous ; but these, being surrounded by dangerous ree&, and not surveyed, must perplex the mariner, with a strong southerly current and constant gales from the northward to N.W., and there being no por^ into which he can enter with safety, except Port Royal, in Ruatan. The latter is a ;nost desirable place when you ai-e lu, but the entrance is particularly narrow and intricate between the reefs. Half-Moon Kay, as already explained, is the S.E. kay of the Eastern Reef, and distinguished by a lighthouse on the East end. To the N.N.W. of this is Saddle Kay, about o miles distant, with a small clump of trees on it. W.S.W. of Half-Moon Kay .13 Hat Kay, which, with trees thereon, resembles a coronet. To 3 miles S. by £. from this kay extends a dangerous reef, even with the water's edge. The course to clear this reef, from 'I miles South of Half-Moon Kay, is f.S.W. J W. about 10 miles. From" the reef to Kay-Bokel the course is West, or \V. \ N., according to the wind, *l leagues. "'■ Kay-Bokel may be knowt ^,>y its cocoa-nut trees, an'd a fine sandy beach. Round- ing it at about half a mile, du <:iot approach nearer, as the ground to the southward is foul. If you wish to anctior, bring the kay to bear from E. by S. to S.E. on a sandy bottom, with 10 to 4 fathoms. Give the ship plenty of chain ; otherwise she may drag off the bank. Should the wind blow strong from the East or N.E., between Kay-Bokel and English Kay, at the entrance of the channel to Balize, steer N.W. by W. 4 leagues. English Kay is sandy on the N.E. part, and is bushy to the water's edge on the South ana S.W. sides. Gaff's Kay, which is on the North side of -the entrance, is much smaller, with a cocoa-nut tree on its centre, and is surrounded with a sandy beach. To the eastward of it, about half a mile, is the patch of sand called the Sand Bore ; it is even with the surface, and, in rounding it, a groat berth must be given. The anchoraj^e is in 8 to 4 fathoms. Gaff's Kay bearing from N. by W. to N. by E., or the kaya to the northward and Goff^s Kay in one. There is also anchorage under Tumeff, as far to the northward from Kay-Bokel as to bring English Kay N.W. by W. in 4 fathoms. On English Kay, in gpeneral, the pilots live who pilot vessels coining in from the northwara. Sailing Outward. — ^The cour»e from English Kay to Mauger Kay is N.E. by N. ; the distance between 6 and 7 leagues. This is the northernmost kay on Turnen ; its latitude is 17" 36' 16", and longitude 87° 47'. A reef extends from it N.N.W. more than 2 miles. During two cruises in the bay the latitude was confiripcd. As the currents in this season run strongly to the southward, half a mile to three ?uartors of a mile in tl ^ hour, should it blow strong from the northward, on leaving ■English Kay, run out by the Souther.t Four Kays, as it is verj' dangerous to beat between Turncff and the main in a dark night. With N.N.W. winds, at this season, it is not unusual to pass out ;•> the southward and eastward of the Triangle. The Directions for Vkssels bound to the Eastern Coast of Yucatan, from ApaiI' to Sei'TEMBEB, as g^ven by Captai-i, Dunaterville, aio as follow ; — Take your departure from Pedro Bluff, Jamaica, and pass about 2 or 3 leagues to the soutuwaid of the Swan Islands. These are two low bushy isles, which may be seen, in clear weather, 4 leagues off. Between them is a reef, over which the sea breaks heavily, and there is not space even for a boat to ^ass, from North to South, there being but one foot of wat«r over the reef. On coasting alotig the North side, withiii a quarter of a mile, 1 found the coast very dear. About the island their e from tl northe are sai setting ridian At 2 I 13 fath Frm the cur ward I the SOI strong directef TO AND FROM THE WEST INDIES. 43V oh is, to my le), let it be to lay from 3 to English Inglish Kay, ch is au in- ake Bonacca rrounded by ^g southerly nopor^ into er IS a .nost md intiicate n Reef, and Saddle Kay, F-Moon Kay es S. by E. 16 course to ut 10 miles, to the wind, h. Round- outhwaj-d is on a sandy le may drag •Bokel and '. 4 leagues. u the South ice, is much ' beach. To Bore ; it is 3 anchora'^e le kays to y-Bokol as 11 from the E. bvN.; urneff; its i.W. more e to three an leaving to botit lis season, TAN, from eagues to may be h the sea to South, irth side, :,««.~ ...... i island are spots of coral banks, but >«> clear to the shore as not to endanger a vessel ; their extent, from East to West, is about 6 miles, the reef included, which extends from the West end about a mile and a half, lliere are two sandy coves on the northern side of the western island, and also on the southern sicfe, where boats are safely landed, A current was, however, found on this and preceding days, setting to the N.N.W. about half a mile an hour. I found the latitude, by me- ridian altitude, 17° 24', ana longitude of the East end, by chronometer, 83° 48' W. At 2 miles from this point we had soundings on rocky bottom, with from 9 to 13 fathoms. From the Swan Islands keep in the parallel of Half-Moon Kay, or 17° 12' N., or, as the current sets to the N.N.W., and should it be hazy weather, do not go to the north- ward of 17° 6' by account, as it would be very dangerous to fall in with the centre of the southern Four Kays Reef at the close of the day. The breezes .are generally strong from the eastward with a lee current. From Half-Moon Kay pi'oceed as before directed. In this season, if, on your return, you pass to the westward of the Triangles, you may find a current setting to the northward about 1 mile an hour; and it will be found that the winds often shift to the westward, with fresh breezes and rainy weather. ; J * T" ' ' On a voyage of H.M.S. Bustard from Jamaica to and from the eastern coast of Yucatan, in June and July, 1827, Mr. Dunsterville made the following remarks : — <' From the West end of the Pedro Shoals to the Swan Islands, found the current setting to the W.N.W. about 1 mile an hour. These isles are between 3 and 4 miles in extent from E.N.E. to W.S.W., and may be approached (particularly by day) within 2 miles, in any class of vessel. The Bustard passed about a mile offshore on tho North and South sidss. On the S.W. point is a fine sand bay, where a vessel may cast anchor in from 10 to 7 fathoms ; hut, off the West end, a rocky bank extends full 1^ miles, with very irregular soundings, from 10 to 6, 4, and 7 fathoms. When the weather is clear, this bank is easily discovered by the eye. Latitude of the East end of the eastern isle, 17° 24' ; off this we had soundings in from 13 to 9 fathoms, rocky bottom, about 2^ miles, the East point N.W. f W. No water could be found on the West isle, the swell being too heavy to admit our landing. Hence we pro- ceeded toward Balize. " At Balize the weather, during our stay, was heavy rains, with tornadoes from S.W. to N.W. These last for two or three hours, then subside into a calm." On leaving Balize, the pilots are always ready to accompany vessels as far as Mauger Kay, and it is imprudent to discharge them sooner, as vc^isels have been known to run upon Tumeff. Vessels from the Turneff Passage should leave Mauger Kay at the close of day, so as to reach the length of the Northern Triangle by daylight next morning if possible. As the Triangle Reef is very dangerous, great caution is required in approachipg it. Most vessels pass to the westward, as tlft current runs from 10 to 50 miles per day, particulaj'ly to the northward ; and it generally sets rapidly to the westward, over the reef, and at the South end, on which there is a small sand-bore. On approaching the southern and western part of the Triangle Reef keep your lead foing. when well to the northward, make the best of your way for yonr destination, eepmg a good lookout in order to avoid the Island Cosumel. Vessels going out by the Southern Passaye, t' atis, by the Four Kays of the Light- house Reef, should never venture without a pilot. lu this case the pilot leaves tho vessel at Half-Moon Kay, which is distinguished by tho lighthouse. " On passing the western side of the Triangle, upon returning from the bay, we steered N.N.E. and cleared the kays on tho North part j and, having run 30 miles on that course, observed the latitude by the star Sjnca, 18° 35' N. Ihe current set to the northward about 1 mile an hour, and continued so till wo arrived in lat. 22° 5', and long., by chronometer, 85° 24' W." From tho N.E. end of the IbIp Cosumel, Cape Antonio, the western extremity of 432 t»ASSAGES OVER THE ATLANTIC, Cuba, bears N.B. hy compass [JV*. 02°^.] 125 miles. Upon this course allowance must be made, in the southern parallels, for the general indrauffht into the Mexican Sea to the N.W., and afterward for the Stream, whieh has too n^equently been found winding from off Cape Antonio to the E.S.E., as explained in the "Colombian Navigator, * and the former part of the present work (200.), page 313. Jamaica to Chaobb and off Cartagena. ., ,i '; * U, ! 1827. *' Sailed from Jamaica on ^he 18th of November : the weathe? &ne, with light southerly sea-breezes. In standing across to Cartagena we found the current had set 34 miles to the westward in four days. On approaching land the weather was very hazy. " We made the land of Oalera 2!amba [long. 75° 25' W.], which is low, and appears, at a distance, full of hummocks. To the northward of Point Canoas (more to the S.W.) the land is a little higher, and slopes gradually to the point, which is low, and should not be approached nearer than 2 miles. *' The hill called the Popa of Cartagena is very remarkable ; it stands to the N.E. of the city, and has a convent on it. This is an excellent landmark ; and to use the eimile of other writers, is like the quoin of a gun. From seaward it makes like an island. The city from the ocean has a fine appearance. " "We anchored, in the Bustard, on the Playa Qrande, in 6| fathoms, fine black sand, with the convent of the Popa E.S.E. | E., Point Ct uoas N. by E., western extreme of Tien-a Bomba S. f W. Latitude of the anchorage, 18° 28, off the town li miles, longitude, 75° 34'. From herce to Chagre, light winds from E.N.E. to North: hazy weather. , " On approaching the land near Potio Bello [Velo] we experienced strong N.E. currents 1 i miles an hour, which continued until we arrived off Chagre. There- fore, at this season, keep well to the westward, if the vnnds are light ; but if the strong N.N.E. winds have set in, which commence about this time, make the land well to the eastward, it not only affording a better landfall, but the currents then run more rapidly to the S.W. " In the vicinity of Chagre the land prcjiants nothing very remarkable by which it may be known, particularly if the weather be hazy, and the castle cannot be seen when it bears to the southward of S.E. by S. This castle is dtuate on an eminence commanding the village and river, and mounts about 20 guns. " The Bustard anchored in 5^ fathoms, with the flagstaff of the castle S.E. | E., Point Brujas N.E. | N., off shore, three-quai-tors of a mile. To the southwaid of the point is a large white patch in the rock, with a fall of fine fresh water close to it. " Supplies, water excepted, cannot be obtained here, and scarce. Fowls were a dollar a-piece, " In turning down the coast, from Brujas Point to Cha|grre, which is 1 league distant, the shore seems bold ; but do not shut in the Point with the southeni land. The best anchorage for a large sliip is with the Point N.E. abont 3 miles off. A strong current out of the river runs to the N.N.E., 2 miles an hour at the anchorage, there- fore you c«nnot ride heavy at the anchor ; but the vessel ix)llo heavily when strong winiU blow. We weighed and beat to the eastward for Porto de Naos or Nary Buy, tv« le allowance the Mexican Y been found « Colombian ;' ■' i^?f-' •'«,',%■• '''5 " inental coast c.) To that Dunsterville, > \rith light rrent had set lier was very and appears, more to the 1 is low» and to theN.E. 1 to use the lakes like an TO AND FROM THE WEST INDIES. 433 iOn the N.E* Bide of which, under Manzanillo Island, a vessel will be well theltcired from N.E. and N.N.E. winds. This bay is formed by Jifanzi Po*n<, the N.W. ex- tremity of the Island of Manzanillo, and on the West by Toro Point. These points lie nenrly 3 miles from each other. On Manzi Point is a lighthouse. Toro Fo^'*^ . has a very dangerous reef, extending nearly a mile to uie N.E., which should not be approached nearer than in 6 fathoms. Manzi Point is bold ; it has 5 fathoms witiiin half a cable's length, and under it is the best anchora^, at the present season of N.E. winds, in 4 or 4^ fathoms, with Manzi Point North or N. by E. about a quarter of a mile. From the point off shore are 520 yards of good ground. To the distance of a mile or a mue and a half from the entrance the shores are bold, with 3 fathoms close to the beach, and soundings regularly decreasing from 6 to 4 fathoms. You may, therefore, take an anchoring berth at pleasure, suited to the vessel's draught. This place does not produce supplies of any kind : even water is to be found omy in a few stagnant pools, from heavy rains, and is very bad. " In the season of the rains the best place to anchor in is on the wc-stem side, as winds prevail from that quarter. There is a hut on Point Limon, in the S.W. ex- tremity of the bay, and which is very high in. comparison with the adjacent coast : when it bears S. by W. you will be to the eastward of Toro Reef, and may run into the bay. From this point there is a communication by a pathway to Cha^. Occa- sionally two or three soldiers are kept there for the suppression of smuggbng. Cocoa- nuts . are in great abundance ; fish very scarce. The soundings on the coast, ftova. 1 mile North of Point Toro, to the same distance off Point Brujas, are 7|, 8, 81, 9, and from Brujas Point to Chagre, 10, 9, 7, 6^, 6, 6|, offshore about half a mile, keeping Brujas Point open, bearing N.E. or N.E. J N. s v «!;,,r a s, fine black E., western off the town n E.N.E. to strong N.E. fre. Therc- ; but if the the land its then nui )y which it not be seen in eminence e S.E. I E., uthward of water close lar a-piece, Rue distant, and. The A strong •age, there- hen strong •KT 1>.... Jauaica to the Bar of Maracaybo, April and May, 1827. On sailing from Jamaica we had fresh easterly winds and squally weather, then winds variable round the compass. From AUa Vela, in lat. 17° 28' N., 'ong. 71° 40', we took our departure for the Isle of Oruba n the eastern side of the Gulfof Maracaybo, allowing for the strong westerly currents »c nt three-quarters of a mile an hour. Saw the Mionka, which are rather high rocks ; and, by the altitude of the star Antarea, uade the northern one to lie in lat. 12° 28'. Hauled to the S.E., and ran along the western coast of Paraguana, sounding, when distant from the shore about Smiles, fh>m 12 to 8 fathoms, till we arrived at Punta de loa Eatanques, whence -Vtd to took our departure for the Beu* of Maracaybo, S.W. J W. To the eastward of the Bar of Maracaybo, about 8 leases, are high mountains; the land westward of these is low, and continues so, with occasional breaks in, by kays and hillocks, which are at the entrance of the lagoon. Farther westward are two pieces of land, not particularly high, on the low S.E. termination of which are three little hillocks. This is the Ida Todoa, on which stands the Castle of San Carlos. When bearing S.S.W. | W. the hillocks are over the fort, which is white. Do not steer for the latter, but continue on about West, not g^ing into less than 5 or 5^ fathoms, w^ an you will open the runins of Fort Zapara to the southward, and the Castle of J5fa;c. Seco to the westward, in lat. 10° 69', long. 71° 42'. This fortress is, likewise, whito, and is situate on a small sandy kay. To the westward of this lies the bar, having at this season a depth over it of only 11 feet, hard bottom'; but in the rainy season, August, September, and October, there is, at least, 13 feet of wat?r. 'jreezes here are very heavy from the N.N.E. to N.E. by E. in the early part of yet at abojat 8 a.m- the wind is generally more moderate : and from 2 n.ra, 3 I Th' 434 PASSAGES OVER THE ATLANTIC, to S s.in., in the following morning it blowi <^ ;: jrfect gale, with « heavy eea, which makes it dangerous to lie at anchor here. The best anchorage off the bar is in 6 or 5| fiithoms, with the Castle of Bajo Seco South or S. by W. ; off shore about 3 or 4 miles. The soundings on the South side of the gulf [bay P] are re;r'lar, decreasing gradually as you anproach the shore. The current runs to the N 'L V'^hen the moon rises ; and it is mgh water, on the fiill and change, at 5>> Id*". In beating to windward, endeavour to be near tiiie north-western shore at about 1 p.m., in onier to take advantase of the winds which draw to the N.N.E., so as to make a good lay to the eastward. The communication with the city of Maracaybo is kept up by one of the ship's boats, hiring a pilot for the occasion, who, on making the general signal, will come but from Bajo Seco in a boat with latine sails, shoula the weather be moderate. If you have to communicate frequently with the city, or to cruise in the gulf, I should recommend beating up to the anchorage of Estanques, in the peninsula of Paraguana ; ' but, in beating up, do not go to the eastward of Punta Gorda, the S.W. point of Paraguana. . - .j The Anchoroffe at Estanques is very good for a vessel of the largest class, even . within half a cable's length of the beach, and capable of containing twentv sail in safety. The best marks for assisting a stranger to find the anchorage is the Mountain (or I'an) of Santa Anna, which much resembles Vesuvius, and may be seen, in clear weather, 8 or 9 leagues off. This mountain, when bearing E. .^ N., leads to the 'anchorage. The place may also be known by being a lon^ tongue of sand, with some huts on the extreme point, occumed by fishermen, who, in the seascfi, lake immense quantities of fish by the seine. The Bustard anchored in 4| fathoms, and veered to 25 fathoms on the N.E. anchor (from which quarter the prevailing winds come stronly), and 82 fathoms on the best bower to the S.W. Pomt Estanques, S. f E., Point Salines, N.N.W. | W., off shore 2 cables' length. No supplies can be obtained here. Rabbits may be shot, but can be purchased cheaply. The littl& water that may be procured is muddy, and not fit to drink. If you are bound to the eastward, when clear of the gulf (bay ?) stretch to the northward, as the currents run so strong between the Isle of Oruba and Cape St. Roman, that it is nearly impossible to beat through; but, should you go be- tween the island and main, be cautious in standing by night to the S.E., as the coast from Cape Roman to Aricula (S.E. 19 miles) is very dangerous, and the currents thereon. In stretching across, from Point Chicabacoa, on the West side of the mouth of the gulf, to Jamaica, we found a strong current, running due West, nearly 1 mile an tour. pass i across Kay eourae to the . " The Channels op Providence. The Channels of Providence, between the Great and Little Banks of Bahama, are copiously described in the second volume of the " Colombian Navigator," as well as the winds and seasons of this portion of the West Indies. The lighthouses on Gun Kay and the Great Isaacs 'n the Florida Strait, together with those erected on the Florida Reefs by the United States Government, and the fine line of beacons along the face of the latter will be eminently useful in facilitating the navigation. We have been assured, by an intelligent navigator, that it is not unusual for twenty sail of vessels, of firom 100 to 400 tons burthen, to pass the Great Stirrup Kay within musket-shot, and even within haU, in one day ; these, for the most part, proceeding the United States to Cuba and the Mexican Sea. They make the Hole in tiie Wall, now distinguished by its lighthouse, then the Stirrup: thence, if the weather appears threatening, they 7 lea, which of Bajo Seco South side of I shore. The , on the full TO AND FROM THE WEST INDIES. 48» pass thnm^ the N.W. channel ; otherwise they shape a eoorse, picking their way, across the Great Bahama Bank, to tLe southward of the Gat Kays, heyond the Gun Kay Lighthouse. Here they enter the Florida Strait, and pnrane a southerly course, where the Gulf Stream is found, as described, to run with the less velocity tQ ^ northward.— (See farther, *< C!olombian Navigator," 1848, vol. ii. pp. 223 to 226.) lore at about ^.E., so as to of the ship's tal, will come aoderate. If nilf, I should [ Paraguana ; 3.W. point of jt class, even wenty sail in bhe Mountain seen, in clear leads to the id, with some take immense ind veered to winds come ^ues, S. f E., a be obtained le water that tretch to the ba and Cape you go oe- S.E., as the the currenia 16 mouth of ly 1 mile «|i of Bahama, tor," as well on Gun Kay the Florida ^ the face of >een assured, sels, of from et-shot, and nited States istinguished tening, they ■ ■■■' •i^./^iui DiREci\.)Ns FOR Proceeding to Demerabt, etc., from the N.E. ■onlui of the " Colombian Navigator," pp. 128 . 'W, we have given ion of the coast, and directions for making tb< vvr rs, of Guyana. >n. Sec, the following remarks in addii't ;;, >»,v TiptaLa George 11 i ' (31, will be found a useful and valuable auvi'V;o;i : — vt. itb a . n'^ . To Chei " h vt. iC N., the water changes to a dark or black colour, or dirty drab,' And thi II i 18 again to the usual sea blue, you may rely on being to windward. There are aidings, only this remarkable change.* Vou will then, in running {krther in, ou the coast, observe a perfect division, or line of change, on the water, nearly N.W., firom blue to green, where the current sets strong in that direction. On proceeding, you will again change to thick muddy water, influenced by the tides, which should be carefully calculated and allowed ror. Many ships have run to lee- ward from want of this, and a due allowance in the course when the tide is running, which is always with the flood. As you approach in-shore 4, 5, and 6 fathoms, should the water then be of a red colour, you may make sure of being to windward, and need not fear running, even should you obain no pilot. This is most perceptible from Miconie down to Corobana Point : to leeward all is dirty, thick mud. " The lighthouse on the weather point of the Demerary River shows a bright fixed light to seaward, from 12 to 14 miles ; with this light-tower bearing from South to S. \ W., flood making, you cannot do wrong by steering in on that course, should you not obtain a pilot, and come-to off the fort, keeping outside the poles on the West side. I mean this as a safe plan for a stranger. " The deepest of the channel has worked of late much to windward ; and deepened so as to allow vessels of 17 and 18 feet draught to beat out in two or three tidcii. I ran in without a pilot in April, 1830 ; was on the bar at dead low-water spring tides, least water 2 fathoms, and am convinced 11 feet may always be found. The pilots, of course, wish the bar to be thought shoal and dangerous, and endeavour to keep in ignorance those who should make these things more a matter of study than is at present the case." To the preceding we add the following, obligingly communicated by Captain Wm» Cook, of the Highbury, of London, 1834. Ships from Europe, bound to Guana, on arriving in about the lat. of 10° N., kmg.' northward at the rate of a mile and a quarter per hour ; and, in the months of August^ and September (after the rainy season), I have found it to set about N.N.E. at the rate of 2 miles an hour. I consider this current to be caused by the s^- mm of tha River Maranon j for as you proceed to the S.W., the water again resumes its usual colour, and the current takes a more westerly direction, until you reach the edge of the Bank of Soundings, where it takes the direction of the fine of coast, and runs about 1^ miles in the hour, excepting during and immediately after the rainy season, when it runs at the rate of from 2 to 2| miles an hour. * This discoloured water appears to be in the Stream of the^EfuatorJal Currtiit ; as may likewise he ths^t which is met with "-t so " . .— . • -' »>==v-.= • V v^W VA IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // *^ ^ 4^ 1.0 I.I ItilM |Z5 ■tt Uii |22 Uf HA ■■■ Sf 1^ 110 ai ■^■i 11^ ||u ij^ • ^ 6" ^ ^^ 'V' /> 7 Photographic Sdeoces Corporalion n WHT MUl»l tTHIT WMITm.N.v. UIM (7l«)l7a-4SOI :^*.^ *i *'' *» PASSAGES OVER THE ATLANTIO,^ . Btrangeni boiiiid to Demerary or Berbioe (if not quite oertain of their kmgitade) dumld avoid making the land, and endeavour to andn theparallel of 6° 30' N., before going to the westward of long. 06^ The coune tiien is W. | S. by oompaM. To the eastward of the Biver Coren^m, in this j arallel, yon -will have from 18 to 20 ihthoms 6f watoTt dark aand, with broken shells and mud ; when abreast of the Corentyn, you will have 12 fiithoms, witb clean brown sand. Steering the above conise, you will nradoally shallow your water to 7, 6, and 6 fathoms, soft mud, when you may be snre that you are approaching the Bar of Berbioe.* If it be daylight, you will see the land, which is very low. If in the night, and you are bound to Berbioe, I would advise tiie ship to oe brought to anchor. ^ bound to Demerary, the better way will be to stand to the northward by the ynad until daylight, as there are several dangerous mud-flats between Berbice and itemerary, some of which extend 6 or 7 miles o£Fthe land, and shift occasionally. Winds. — ^During the day, throughout the greater part of the year, the prevailing winds on this ooast are from the N.E. to N.£. by N. During the months of June, July, August, and September, the wind generally draws more to the eastward after sunset, and continues blowing light until about 9 o'clock in the morning } when it again backs to the N.E., and blows a tnah breeze. CUBBEMTS. — ^Within 16 miles of the coast the tide regularly ebbs and flows six hours each way ; tiie flood running westward, and ebb to the eastward. Without thu range the current FEquinoctial] runs constantly in the direction of the coast, from 1 to 2 miles an hour. In sailing to the northward you will find the current, when about 60 miles from the coast, to run about N.W., and in this direction it continues to run until you are to the northward of the islands. " The velocity of the current between the coast of Guayana and the island is modi- fied by circumstanced, Vhich I have never been able satisfactorily to account for, as X have often foimd it imperceptible, at other times very strong, and not in the lc«8t influenced by the seasons." ■^\.\ rw,(,' 'ff i n 8.— OF SmPS BOUm) to and from TUB NORTHERN PORTS OF AMERICA. In the introductory remarks to this section of the work, we have alluded to the principles of great circle sailing, and have pointed out tiie advantaffes which it possesses, not Bo*much in the shorter distance which it vives over the rhumb course, but in the scope it allows the navigator in the choice of a parallel on which he can make a good passage, without materially increasing the actual distance to be sailed over. In no ease can this be better exemplified than in the ooumes over the northern parts of tiie Atlantic, between the British Isles and the northern American ports. We alluded to a case, not impracticable, of the courses between the Licard and Cape St. John's, in Newfoundland, and showed that two courses miffht be taken, not more than 30 miles greater than the shortest distance, of exactly uie same length, and yet be 330 miles apart in latitude in their greatest separation. An imaginative course will well explain this for our present purpose : — From the liicard to Sandy Hook, New York, the distance and course by compass ure 2,992-9 mile N.,7 beari andt sailc eoun Bay New A" line, this: siden Bona Isle, I latit*. the arc,! W that I tageo clear] I St. * Since the ffth of February, 1840, a light- vessel has been stationed off Berbioe near the eaatem point of the entrance. It exhibits n single bright liuht, from sunset to sunrise, and by day a black ball at the mast-head. The light-vessel oi Demerary is similar, and lies 10 miles N.N.E. i E. from tbo entrance. It may bo prudent not to depend too much on «oviug those vessels when passiog.— Ed. TO AND FBOM THE NOBTHSRN FORTS OF AMERICA. 487 . miks 8., 78* 61' W. But if a yenel leaving Ha Lisard were to oommenoe Miliag N., 73° 24' 40' W., and pasdng about 35 mflea southward of Cape Clear, nadnalhr bearing to the West, attaining a nuudmum latitude of 61" 66' 30% long. 26° 27' 20* W.. and then, if it were poesible, approach New York on a S. 64° 36' W. ooune, ihe would sail over 2,866 miles, or 871 mdes less than the compass course. This great eireli eourte passes over Cape Bonavista and La Hone Bay in Newfouiidland ; St. Anne's Bay in Breton Island; Pictou and Cape St. Mary in New Brunswick; near Bottoui New London ; and over Long Island, m the United States. A line, of the length of 2,962-6 miles, placed in a higher latitude than the rhumb line, as diown in page 376, is just ae much above the great cirolfc course in latitude •• this is above that by compass. Thia correspondiog arc from New york leads con- siderably inland of the coast of the Eastern States, iaterseoting Chaleur Bav, C^pe Bonaventura in Oan>6 Bay, Anticosti, passes 46 miles N.W. of the Strait of Belle* Isle, approaches within 189 miles of Cape Farewell, Greenland, attains a mayimnia latitude of 67° 12' N., and intersecting the S.W. part of Ireland, at Kinsale, reaohee the Lizard in a S.E. direction. These two lines, of the rhumb and the corresponding arc, are ufiwarda of 700 tnilee apart at the greatest deviation from each other. With these considerationB so manifest, we shall be better prepared to understand that a higher latitude than the usually received one cannot, of itself, be disadvan- tageous ; and the excellent observations of Captain Hare, presently given, will be more clearly evident. By referring to the Chart, it will be seen, that from the Land's End of England to St. John's Newfoundland, the true bearing[ is W. 4° S. ; and fit)m the same point to Cape Sable, or the S.W. end of Nova Scotia, it is about W. 9° S. But tiie dronm- stances of navigation, in general, render a direct course more tedious and difficult than a circuitous route, and the best passages have been made by pursuing a high northerly course. It seems probable, from all that we have said on the winds and currents, that on prosecuting a north-westerly course, from the Bank of Channel Soundings, the w^nds and currents, respectively, may countei-act and balance each other ; that, on Airther prosecution of t& same course, the winds will be found less westerly, and therefore more favourable than in the more southerly parallels : and that, in auvancing toward the mouth of Davis's Strait, the advantages both of wind and current may oe com- bined. Caution must be taken not to advance too near the eastern coast of Newfoundland, if bound to New Brunswick or the southern ports ; nor to the eastern coast of Breton Island, as here tiie vessel may be swept rouna by the strong westerly currents, which have been described on the preceding pages (347, to 362), and which, now understoodf instead of producing mischief, may prove tdghly advantageous in facilitating the ship's course. ^""^ Tho propriety of these arguments was confirmed by experience, in more than forty \ passages made to and ftvm New Brunswick, &c., by Lieut. Chas. Hare, of the Royu I Navy, nrevious to the fall of 1824. Annexed is a coyy of that gentleman's commimi- / cation.* / " Ships from Scotland, in the spring of the year, ani bound to New BrunswiolR'^ have ^ways arrived sooner than those from the English Channel ; which is attributea (b their being more to the northward on leaving the land. " Ship tfom. Liverpool generally arrive before those which sail fit>m the English Channel ; the cause being the same. " In the Spring of the year, I would never go to the southward of lat. *46° or 4T, * Many succeeding passages made by Captain Hare, since 1824, have oonenrred to prove tho propriety of tiieae directions, which have boon higUv approved by the Amerioaa captains of home ships. woU as by British masters. 'Tnis gentleman had orossod the AUantio for the ninety-' ^ath ^o, in the year 1830| and the om huttdrHl ami Mmalh, ia 1846. .' . f,.'-^ vtiifj ■ 19S 4J^ii: : PASSAGES OVER TBE ATLANTIC^ «iitillT«Mhedloaff. ST'oi'dMreaboatt then adge to tlw Mnthward ace fiir as lat. 43°^ in order to avoid ue icebergs, keying a very strict lookout i this parallel (43°) I ihould eudcAvoor to preserve, or nearly so, but nothing to the eouthward, until up to Cape Sable, Nova Scotia ; for it carries you to a safe and proper distance from Sable Island, a place that cannot be too much dreaded. In this track you will be without tike northern edge of the Qulf Stream, and assisted by a south-westerly current from the Banks until past that island. '* In the Fall of the year my track is hx more to the nortiiward than in the spring. On leaving the land as late as the middle of October, or thereabout, I generally steer to the norui-westward untU I get as &r North as 55°, and until I enter the longitude of 90% tiien edge to the southward, to enter tlie banks in lat. 46°, shaping again a coarse to pass luwut 60 miles to the southward of Sable Island, as above. If bound to Hali&x, andvory sure of my latitude, I might be tempted to pass to the north- ward of Sable Island ; but, at all events, it would be at great risk ; and I should not, vatdsr any oircumstences, recommend a stranger to attempt ; as the weather is 9iostly foggy, an^ the set of the currents unaccountable. The soundings on Ban- quereau are mcorrectly laid down in everv chart that I have yet seen i being, in fact, within an hour's sail of the N.E. bar of Sable Island ; from which cause I once very narrowly escaped shipwreck. Numerous gannets are always hovering about this island, and are a very excellent indication of your near approach to it, particularly on the South side. , ** By crossing the banks thus far North, you will find the advantage as you ap- proach the lonntudes of Newfoundland and Nova Scotia ; the strong N.W. and North nles having then commenced, you will frequently be compelled to lie-to for two or foree days ; aad should then ensure sufficient dmt, before you are blown into the steong influence of the Gulf Stream } which would be the case at a few degrees to the southward, and inevitable in a S.S.E. direction, at an inconceivable rate.. Last November (1824) the ccuw occurred; the vessel being hove-to, under main-topsail and storm-trysail to the rvestward of the banks, in lat. 45°, and was, in fowr days, swept into lat. 39|, consequently into the Gulf Stream, when the longitude became also considerably afiboted, ana I took the first opportunity of making a N.N.°W. course, to get out of it as sooa as possible. •. *f To prove the advantages of a northern track, late .ir the fUl of the year, I may notice that I have, in one or two instances, read in tJie j^*T>«trican newspapers the accounts of very long passages experienced by ships whir i heavy galcb in the latitudes of 35° and 38 , when several vessels were disable* i others suffered loss of sails; yet, on the same day, in lat. 54° I had moderate vtreuvher from the N.N.E. with top-gallant studding-sails set ; which strongly encourages me to believe that the blowing weather, incident to approachiiu; winter,' commences southerly, and inclines northerly as the season advances, and not the revnrse ; an hypothesis generally formed by EngUsh ship-Qiasters, but, in my opinion, certainly erroneous. " I am fiurther of opinion that the influence of the Gulf Stream, in the parallels from lat. 35° to 42°, wnether from the warmness of .the water or other natural cauHca, has a strong tendency to attract the wind from a western direction ; as I have in- Tariably found the wind more alterative in the northern latitudes before mentioned ihan the southern ones ; and it unquestionably must be allowed by all mariners of 'any observation, that gales experienned in the Gulf Stream or its vicinity blow with much greater violence than they do in that part of the Northern Atlafatio not under its influence ;* besides, the squalls from the southward or S.W. are much more sudden and heavy, and near the banks they are attended with dangerous lightning, llie ^ermometer (an instrument easily understood) is of the greatest importuice for ascertaininff your approach to it ; and, if bound to the West, I would, for my own part, endeavour to avoid its effects as cautiously as I would a lee-shore ; for it maybe depended on, that no ship, however well she may sail, will effect westing in the Gulf • * See the remarks upon the Gales of the Afores, in the description herinafter given of ^ those islands. tar ti» lat. 43*^ tanllel (43°) I ird, until up to ace from Sable 'HI be witiiout |r ourrent frtna I in the spring, ^nerally steer the longitude apinff attain a ve. If bound i to the north* I I should not> tie weather is in^ on Ban< being, in fact, se I once very ig about this t, particularly as you ap- '. and North ■to for two or .own into the ew degrees to e rate. Last in-topsail and r days, swept became also W. course, to year, I may rapapenr the galeb in the suffered loss the N.N.E. ieve tivat the and inclines is genei-ally the parallek tural oauNes, I have in- mentioned mariners of y blow with not under nore sudden tning. 1'he ortance for or my own )r It may be in the Gulf ker given of TO AND FfiOM 1^ KOHTHBItN P0ET8 09 AMERICA. 9bmM with A wind from that quarter ; nd it is to be femembered liiat ita Velooity ik Moderated according to the strength of those winds ; and its extent in breadth, at ft few degrees to the westward of the Amies, is many more degrees IIibb is commonly oupposed. «* These obserrations, I hope, may be uiseM to my brother mariners engaged in these Toyages ; and permit me to say, that they are grounded on the experience of more than rorfy times crossing the Atlantic in the Royal and the merchant service; and in the command of vessels in both ; latterly in one of 4<)0 tons burthen, the TFa<«r/ioo» owned in St. John's, New Brunswick; and, as the custom-books in IdveP- pool can testify, landed four ftiU careoes in thirteen following months f which, include mg the time required to discharge uie same, then load outward to St. John's, there diMsharge and load home again, leaves but very little time for the abip to cross the Atlantio eight times in fowteen months, which, in fiust, was done. « Still ftirther, In corroboration of my approved northern track, allow me to ob>- 8erve,.that in the fiill of 1823, by keeping ui a high latitude, the brig Ward, myself master, also owned in New Brunwick, performed a voyage out and home in seventy- two days. The sune vessel, likewise, on the 3rd of October, 1824, left the Englid| Channel, and arrived again in the Downs on the 3rd of January following. ^^ " I must add, that a strong, well-found, and well-manned vessel, alone can perforqi these voyages ; for they ttrast be maintained with unremitting attention ana pers^ verance. " The necessity and ytopAety of the above remarks were particularly exemplified by the Ward, which, on her passing through the Downs, in 1824, left ships there which were bound to the weetwara, weather-bound, and found them there on her return, havinjg been driven back by adverse winds ; while she, getting out of the Channel, performed with ease a prosperous voyage to St. John's, New Bhinswick, and back, exactly in three months, assttted by chronometer, thermometer, fto." Althouffh the voyage to and from North America, between the parallels of 60" and 40°, has always been attended with a ctecn« 9 of peril from masses of ice which drift to the southwara, during the summer monuis, from the polar regions, yet many an un- wary mariner makes his r ^n across the Atlantic without any apprehension ofjneetin^ these floating dtia^n, or without sufficiently exercising a proper discretion and vigi- lance to guard against coming in collision with them. Commanders of ships diould, therefore, bear in mind the impterative necessity there is for using their utmost vigi- lance and attention when crossing the above-named parallels, especially between me meridians of 30° and 60° W., to guard against coming in contact with these formidable daneers of the ocean. Upon the subject of the ices which come down from the northern latitudes, much that is interesting and necessary to be known will be found in a former pait of this book, pages 350 to 360. The Neu) York packet ahipa, when making their winter voyafj^e f^m Liverpool, kept in high latitudes until nearing Newfoundland. This they did for the twofold object of avoiding the tempestuous weather so generally experienced to the soutli- ward, and of obtaining fiurer winds ; and thus, by slippmg within the mighty stream from the Florida Channel, they evaded its retarding influence. The voyage by this route is shortened ; and, although had weather must be expected, it is not so violent as f\irther South ; besides which the eastern currents are avoided. — (See further on this subject " Colombian Navigator, vol. i., p. 219.) QULF OF ST. LAWRENCE, &Ci— Those bound to the Golf of St. Lawrence, after passing to the southward of the Virgin Rooks, on the Grand Bank, and the Island of St. Pierre, should keep a middle course bet\»sen Newfoundland and Breton Island; not forg^etting what has been heretofore said on the winds and currents. Re- collecting also, that the harbours on the -coast, westward of Fortune Bay, are impedecl with dangers'; there are many rocks about tho entrances, and most oi the harnoufs are imperfectly known. The rocks are not to be seen in thick weather, and fogs very much prevail on the coast. Commanders of vessels bound to the Gulf of St. Lawrence will do well to observe that, off the South coast of Newfoundland, between the meridians of Ad° and 66°, and 440 PASSAGES OVBR THE ATLANTia the tehdleU of 46* 90' and 46° IS', u a deep gully in the ma, extending in a truf JN.N.B. and S.S.W. direction, and separating the Bank of St. Pierre from the Qreon Bank. 7%e method adopUd by the Mrmch vttteh bound to Sit. Pwrt/br making that i$kmd M a$/bliowa :— From the longitude of 62° W., in lat. 46", thev ateer a N.W. coone bv oompaM, 'whioh oarriea them aoroM the Oreen Bank, in 48 nthomi of water \ and when on the meridian of 65° 10', in about 46' 35' N., they suddenly deepen their water, fiwm 4fi to 90 ftithoms. A fturther run on the same course of about 10 miles carries them acroM thin gully, when they shoalon their water again to S6 and 30 fathoms i and, after a fturther run of '23 mfles, they steer about N.N.E. directly for the island, and seldom or never miss it. — {See tho Chart qf Now^ndland, ^e.) Those who hare lost their reckonings, on finding this gully, whioh may be known by the water shoaling on the East and West sides of it, an experiment that is fhv quently made for ascertaining wheti^er they are actually in it or not, — may safely take it as a ^VmA departuro. Commanders, not being aware of it, when they have found their water deepen from the Oreen Bank to the westward, have imagined them- ielvee entering the Oulf of St. Lawrence i and, by steering a course too far to the ttorthward, have been lost to the eastward of Cape Kay, on the rooks of Newfoundland. The length of the gully is about 60 miles, in a true N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction, and the mivmle of it Is in lat. 45' 50', and long. 45" 15'. — Oomtnunwation of tht French QmmandaHt to Captain l^r Richard Orant, R.y., 1833. "" '«'' 2%« lUth I$kmd qf St. Paui, vhich lies to the north-eastward of Cape North, now distinguished by its liffhthouses, is bold-to, steep, and high, and, with a good look-out in the daytime, cannot be considered as dangerous even ui thick weather. The land of Breton Island is very high, and though fogs are about it frequently, it is seldom so much obscured as not to be seen in time. On entering the gulf, the Magdalen and Bird IsUmda will be seen, as they lie in the direct course from Cape North to the River of St. Lawrence. There is, in clear weather, a safe passage between the Bird Islands and the Mag- dalene I but, in thick weather, it is advisable to keep either to the southward or northM^urd of both, as the wind may permit. In Pleasant Bay, on the S.E. side of the Magdalen Islands, there is clear and good anchorage, verv near the shore ; and it is a very safe place for vessels to ride in, with a westerly wind, and infinitely preferable to beating about in the Oulf with a foul wind. There is a safe passage mto it between Amherst Island and Entry Island. As the weather to to the southward of these islands^ between them and Prince Edward Island, is generally much clearer than on the North, the passage that way is preferable, particularly after the early part of the year, when &.W. winds mostly prevail. F«M«b bound to and from the River St. Lawrence now use the Strait of Belle IhIo as a dxannel whioh gives the shorter and better route to Europe in the aummer months. It diould be remembered that the ices described in (284.), pages 355 to 360, which float down the Labrador coast to the Oreat Banks have carefully to bo avoided during the season of their frequency in February or March to July. Again, the shorter days in the higher latitudes, andfthe prevailing fogs which infest the Newfoundland coast have to he taken into account during the winter and late autumn months. The now lights erected on Belle Isle and Auo'ir Point, in the Strait of Belle Isle, will vcrv much focilitato the navigation thus pointed out. With the caution thus indicatca, this route offers many advantages. The Canadian mail steamers now follow it, although a recent accident firom ice to one of them, in the month of May, 1861, will act as a warning.* • When within the trulf the northern shore should not be made too free with, as it is possible that some outlying rooks may havo escaped the vigilance of the Admiralty aur- veyora. The Ortmgt Book, off Coaroacho Bay, is an example. The S,8. North Amtriea discovered it by striking on it in September, 1868. It is 1| miles outside the line of dangers, near a spot where the Admiralty chart showed no bottom at 47 ftithoms. ©.—BETWEEN EUROPE AND NEW YORK, ETC. There aeoms to be little hope that much can be added to our knowledge of this well beaten track, and that the paaaagei can be shortened by adopting any ftech ronto. Soon after Maury's Pilot Chart*, an analysis was made of them in order to find out the best route by eomjputation for each month in the year, of a track between New York and Europe. It will be needless to dilate on tiliese, or to give the copious tables that were drawn up to illustrate these routes. They are given on the illustrative diagram of the tracks across the Atlantic, and the lines there laid down will be sufficient to show their relative position. These tracks certainly seem to us to diverge so much flrom any regularify of order in difiSarent months, not eidiibiting any grfuual change with the seasons, as might reasonably be exnected, but have a general zig-zag course, at variance with the generallv received laws of simplicity and order wmch natural phenomena, which govern uiese courses, usually assume. This want of an apparent •general law of change is doubtless owing to the imperfection of the data upon which they are based. This has been before alluded to in (29.), on pages 186, 187, and by reference to that and the diagram it will be seen that the recoroi of the direction of the winds are in themselves so imperfect, that they will be quite sufficient to account for the anoQialies in the oompntua best courses for the different months. Therefore the graphic illustration of them will here suffice. But as these recommendations have been followed out by a great number of vessels, chiefly the fine clippers and passenffcr ships between LiverjMol and New York, their voyages have been discussed and tabulated by Captain Maury in his last edition, and the general mean result of the best six passages in each month is given in the ensuing tables. But this selection may not afford a Just estimate of the ordinary voyase of a deeply laden ship lees adapted for making a rapid passage. Still the route aaopted by the clippers will manifestly be the Mst, in general, that can be taken by the heavier vewiel. And therefore these tables will not be tiie less useftil. In the development of any new route, or change in an adopted (nrstem* much dis- cussion must necessarily be involved, and many facts brought to bear upon the advantages to be derived. From this cause the volumes of Captain Maury have assumed such a bulk that for every-day use their value is in some degree impaired, and even in drawing up a summanr of the results arrived at, it is necessary to be discursive, and extend the abstract to a considerable length, as will be seen in the preceding pages upon the best meridian for crossing the equator. With this view the computed routes given by Captain Maury, with the probable amount of fair or head winds, gales and calms, and distance^ required to be sailed over in each section of the voyage are omitted. The tables of actual experience which follow, will, it is thought, be quite sufficient to give an idea of the sub- ject. Only tlie mean results are given here, not the^lctails Arom which they ar« derived. 3 K i ij <&■ tiC*a oOl 'fli^va 0^9 •■i£«a 009 •■ahi .yy ••^•a rf>y tUbtd .» '«X«(i «<»► •8i:»a oS£ •■^•a eOC ■8iC«(X cJt •bX»(I oOS •BX«(t oJl •syCBQ ^ r u * • • r r » •• •• • OMMMMMNMMMQMM • ■_•••••*••• • fHe4'«4e«o^?2!' rr^:^ « i^I CO e« © 5 ^ « ^^^ w ^H «^ 5p io vi 3 S SC p p ^ p5 JF ^~ ' ^ '9/% t k t t t ^ ^ ^ t 7* D» « ^^9 •» •? r- 9 9 9 ^ ^>«• 04 04 w « M * ^ •» "J* "?» « CO CO ^ »»» 4 * :«■ 00 ^• r* f' *^ 04 •• V r> M ■<«• ■* * >e 04 ■* f* 04 04 f !^ »o ^ * 5 eo "* •* ■♦ * 04 04 • w>4 •< ^ 00 4 * ^ «0 ■* CO •^ <^ 04 •p VO Ov ^ 5? ? •o «o 04 ^-1 <-< 04 •o *»i r ^ ^ s, ■* 04 « rH IH 04 On »0 r- ^ 5 04

o •* L4 h <0 h rg rg i § fe 6 tzi 1 ^ II 1 1 r p I ^ i-< ta oc M en db tb « A A 6 »b » t t. »« O '■' i- ay«- t 1 ^ o» O u» o « ^ t W w ^ 2 ck yj Days. tO" 6s« «&«*d*iiLd»kedktb«'> a>iik ■6 t t t t t t »4 »d be Days. 6o> d. .^ dk A 00 »& CM to »& dk ■^ ^ *«! t t t t »' ON M e NO Days. Sf d» «• <». •4 Hh »i ei CO »► <^ t t t d » 6 t t t d A ^ o» eo Ol 1^ M i: ;!: |r 6 * :fc t 4^ CO t 6 DtQTB. 5<^ Days. 45' •^ en to H* 00 00 ' ta M kb 6 oi .Ik e* M »^ to ■6n ts ts ■^ o> *> ts ft ft ft ■fes ft Dayi. 35" t^tek^MMebkbMibo)^^ M ^ "J 1i « ^ t Qi V u» -J ^ 4 »^d«^tAte^^cn DayB. 3o» Days. A ft • • ? 00 *sr Mcoi^^H>ot9eo«->^i^>^ *^'^ b 6 -ti »i> M ^ 1^ ^ e< »o to <&*■<& ^ *8 (K eg ^ ;^ eg oe 4aB4oo^cbi^o'itito Totol Days i P Q Ed 00 GO ««4 PASSAGES OVER THE ATLANTIC, Theso two tables giye the mean track and time occupied by the best six of each of the paasagca diacosBed as proceeding fkx>m Europe to America, and firom America to Europe. The ports on the European ude are London, Liverpobl, Havre, and a few from the Ciyae, Hamburg, &c. The last column gives the total durati(^ of the Yojrage, and the intermediate day columns the time occupied io sailing between the respective meridians fi" apart But these six best passages of course are considerably below the average length of the ordinary voyages, whiw may be briefly stated as follows : — Surope to America. — January, M to 87 days; mean of all, 40*1 days. ' Febmarr, 21 to 62 days ; mean, 32'a days. March, 21i tO 42 daysi mean, 31*0 days. Apnl, 24 to 43 days ; mean, 33-? days. May, 18 47 days; mean, 32*0 days. June, 29 to 04 days; mean, 36*7 days. July, 31 to 40 days; mean, 86-8 days. August, 22 to 42 days ; mean, 33*1 days. September, 23 to 4o days ; mean, 29-1 days. October, 18^ to 46 days ; mean, 31 '0 days. November, 28 to 53 days ; mean, 37*2 days. De< oember, 27} to 48 days ; inean, 37*6 days. America to JBurope, — January, 17 to 28 days ; mean, 21*0 days. February, 16 to 28 days ; mean, 22*6 day. Mardi, 16 to 27 oays ; mean, 22 days. April, 10 to 28 days ; mean, 22*0 days. May, 18 to 28 days ; mean, 23*2 days. June, 19 to 20 days; mean, 22*0 days. July, 17 to 27 days; mean, 21*0 days. August, 21 to 28 days; mean, 24*1 days. September, 18 to 29 days ; mean, 23*1 dhys. October, 16 to 27 days; mean, 21*9 dam November, 17 to 26 days; mean, 22 days. December, 10 to 28 days ; mean, 21*2 days. These figures will show with how much more certainty the eastern voyage is mode with the anti-trade winds and easterly currents in its favour, than the average voyage with their adverse influences to retard and embarrass it. These tables will'aniffioe to show all that is necessary on this well-beaten track. mayi men i andot that I pretty as for espcd York, of no if it- >.■*,„ 10.->43TEAM TRACKS TO AND FROM AMERICAr^ :k^"j The daily increasing amount of collision, which has advanced much beyond the ratio of the use of steam, has led to many plans for averting it, but, apparently, without a corresponding effect in adopting them. The terron of this dan^r in the open sea are manifest, and many saa examples are too well-known not to mduce oautiou — one, that of the U.S. mail-steamer Arctic striking the French steamer Veata near Cape Race in Oct. 1804, led our American friends to consider whether some means could not be employed to lessen the danger. Accordingly, R. B. Forbes, Esq., of Boston, proposed one track for steamers going to, and another for those coming from America. This problem was worked out by Lieut. Maury, and we give here uie result in his own words : — " The shortest distance possible for a steamer between Liverpool and Sandy Hook is 3,009 mUes ; the average distance actually accomplished is 3,069 miles, and the distance, by the middle of the lane coming is 8,038. There is also another recom- mendation in favour of this lane to the West, which is this : it lies along the northern edge of the Gulf Stream, where there is an eddy setting westward often at the rate of a knot an hour. On the average, I assume that the set of this eddy will amount to 12 miles a day for three days and a half, or say 40 miles. This makes the distance by the lane coming practically about 2,998 miles ; or, allowing 20 miles for detour, we shall have 3,018 miles, wnich will shorten the average time of the passage this way three or four hours, with less risk of collision, and less danger from Cape Race by the way. " It may be urged against this lane that it cannot always bo followed on account of the ice, and that, inasmuch as it crosses the Grand Banks, the steamers that ply in it STEAM TRACKS TO AND FROM AMERICA. U6 rond tho ratio may now and then ran dbwn a flshinff veaaeL The reply ia thftt, as |hr at fhe flsher^ mon aro conoomed, they are now lialue to be ran down by the iteamera both going and coming. Whereaa, with the lane, that liability ia incident to the ateomera aTone that are weatwardly bound, and the flahermen will have the advantage of knowing pretty nearly where the steemer will pass, and which way ahe will be oominar. And as for its being obstructed by ice, so as to compel the ateajuers, aa it occasionally will, especially in May or June, to tuni out of it now and then, the Erie Canal, m New York, ia obstructed by ice the whole of every winter, but that doea not prove it to be of no value ; it only shows that it, like this lane, would be of more value to oommerod if it were never obstructed by ice, or anything at all. " The Grand Banks afford a pretty good landmark, which can be used in tho thickest weather. Generally tho water tnermometer is found to fall aa won as you near these Banks } it is ffenerally agood landmark for them. The eastern edffe runs JSTorth and South, and, therefore, aflrards an excellent correction forlonntude. Having ascertained by the lead when the vessel first strikes this edge, then nonng the aoxma- ings and the distance run before clearing the Grand Banks, the latitude will also be known Mrith accuracy sufficient to enable the navigator to decide whether he be in or ont of the lane, and if out, on which side. The mne crosses the Banks near their greatest width, 276 miles. If a steamer be crossing there in a fog, and in doubt as to her position, she can judge, by their breadth and the soundings, pret^ nearly as to latitude. For instance, if the breadth of the Banks, when crossea, be less than 275 miles, but the soundings not less than 40 fathoms, the vessel has crossed the Bank to the North of the lane { but if she find herself in less than 30 fiathoms, then she has crossed to the South of it. Should she, however, find herself in water that suddenly shoals to less than 20 fathoms, and as suddenly deepens again, then she is near the Virgin Rocks, or the Rock and Nine-fathom Bank to the East of them^ and her posio tion is immediately known. " It should be recollected, however, that these lanes are not channel-ways in which steamers must keep or be lost. Gales of wind, ice, and other things will now and then force a steamer out of them, and in such cases she wiU actually be where she is now, for she will ^en be in no more danger than she is now { only when she gets back into the lane she will be in less. "You will doubtless observe the advantageous position of the fork to HalifiEuc, in the lane from Europe. As this lane approaches Newfoundland, it edges off to the South in such a manner as to render it impossible for a vessel so to miss her way as to get ashore. Suppose a steamer attempting this lane to be, when she nears the Grand Banks, 100 miles out in position (a most extravagant case), and that she be out on the Newfoundland side, she would, if behaving properly, be steering parallel with the lane, and if bound to New York, she would go clear of Cape Race. But she might be boimd for Halifax, and. hj steering West too soon, might run upon the land ; but recollect that the lane' -io Halifax turns off on toundinga, and a West course from where the lane fr«m England strikes soundings on the Grand Banks will take you clear of everything* So without the most gross neglect of the lead and alLthe proper precautions, which it is the duty of the snipmaster to take, it would seem im' possible for him to run his steamer into danger here. " In the longitude of the Grand Banks, the lane to Europe Is 200 miles South 6f the lane to America. As a rule, this lane for the eastern bound steamers can be followed always, admitting that an exception now and then in practice will make the rule general. It will be observed that this lane runs E. 15° S. from Sandy Hook to the meridian of 70°, where it takes a course E. 12° N., towards its junction with the arc of a great circle. South of the Grand Banks. Though the distance bv this lane, from Sandy Hook to this junction, is a few miles longer than the direct line, yet on account of the Gulf Stream it is in time the shortest mstance that a steamer can take. From tho Capes of Delaware it is obviously the shortest " I will close this report with a i-ecapitulation as to distances and courses by each IM FAStAOBS OVBB THE ATLANTIO, Un^ bekwean New York, Halifkx, uid FliiladelphiA, on one aide, and Oftpe Clour and the BoUly lalei on the other i flnt bening leave to aay that, aooording to mr oompu- tUdaOf fMmded on Boch atatiatioa aa luKve touching the yelooity of the Gulf Streun, if ttpo atoamen bound fbr Cape Cliiar, and of exactly equal apeed, wore to start from HalifitXt to aae whioh should nrrt get into the great oinue part of the lane to Europe from New Torict and if one were to go atraiffht for it bv steering East, and the other were t» fbllow the Bunmean lane iran Halifax as prneoted on the chart, this one would reach thepoint of destination quite aa soon as the other, the drift of tho Qulf Straam compensating iat the goeater distance. '< DISTANCE BT LANE TO AMERICA. By Great Circle. "FramSdUy Isles to Halifhx 2,301 2,300 M n Capes of Delaware 2,048 2,900 „ „ SandyHook 2,882 2,840 <' From Cape Clear to HaU&x 2,192 2,170 „ „ Capes of Delaware 2,780 . 2,76A „ » Sandy Hook 2,723 2,605 t, „ Do by actual average 2,7M *' This statem«it shows that by the lane to America the distance is actually shorter, both to Sandy Hook, and, we may infer also, to the Delaware, than tho average dis- tance by present route} for tiie route actually pursued by the steamers now, both to Sandy Hook and tho Delaware, may be considered the same fkom Capo Clear or tho Sdlly Isles, as fiu West as long. 70*. ' > ** DISTANCE BT LANE TO EUROPE. -,> . . To Scilly Isles. To Cape Clear. ^' «TramHaliJhx 2,436 2,28« „ Gapes of Delaware 3,024 2,873 ; ;' „ SandyHook 2,080 2,829 " Besides the detour firom the great circle which a vessel from New York, Halifax, Boston, or Philadelnhia would necessarily make by following the European lane to Cape Qeav, it Would require an additional detour of only 15 miles tn vessels bound into the EngliiAi Channel to use it also as fbr as Cape Clear. This lane, therefore, will, in consequence of the fkvourable currents of the Gulf Stream, put a vessel into Southampton quite aa soon as she could reach that port ftom New York or Phila- delphia by the great circle route. Vessels tcma Halifuc will have to make the greatest detour of any by adopting the lane to Europe ; but for them it is less than 100 miles out of their way as thev now go, and it will prolong their average passaffo eastwards, perhaps, two or three nours. I sar perhaps, because I am not sure but that the steamers from Hali&x and New England are set back by the cold current 20 or 30 miles on the route now used for the eastern passage. The Gulf Stream, even from where they will join it by this lane, will set them forward, on an average, 40 or 50 miles at the least. It seems, therefore, that the attractions of this hme as it regards safety should more thui outweigh the eroftaSfe loss of an hour or two during the passage. When I speak of dii^ances by tne lanes, it should be recollected that the middb of the lane is moantt safer foUo^j{.tahle Qt oowsm and distance^. iA i:i STEAM TBA0X8 TO AND FROM AMERICA. LAME TO AMEBIOA. " From Sdlljr Islas to O^ie daar, ' Cape Clear to lat. 0^23', long. 1&>.V, n ft lat «1».28', u in [01l( II II 01.16 tt II II 00.06 tf II II 00.28 II II >i 49.86 11 M II 48.88 II II II 47.10 II II II 40.88 II It i,(«) 45.00 II l» II 44.10 II II II 42.40 II II II 41.42 II II »» 40.80 II II II 40.80 tf II „(a)4fi.O II 00.00 00.28 49.86 48.88 47.10 45.38 40.00 44.10 42.40 41.42 40.30 70.0 Sandy Hook, 70.0 to Capes of DekwuOi 01.40 to Ibli&z, 20.0 20.0 80.0 80.0 40.0 40.0 00.0 01.40 00.0 60.0 60.0 II i« II II II II II »» 25.0 80.0 80.0 40.0 40.0 00.0 01.40 00.0 60.0 -65.0 70.0 COIUM. W. 88».7 N. 1»,00'N. 2».l7' S. 6.0 0.00 18.31 17.40 21.8 20.10 27.18 19.40 22.27 14.34 17.40 0.48 S. 22.8 8. 8.03 S. W. LAME TO BUttOPBr *' From Capes of Delaware to lat. 80"40', lon^r- 70*.0' Sandy Hodi to lat 39°. 40', long. 70'>.0' lat 39.40', long. 700.0' to lat 40<>.3l', long. II II 60''O' Conne. E. i0"46' N. £. 14.29 8. 12.24 N. >9 II 40.81 II 60.0 II 41.9 II 60.0 9.39 $f II 41.09 II 60.0 II 41.38 .tf 06.0 6.0 9$ ,1 41.33 II 00.0 II 41.03 II 60.0 4.07 ft „(«) 41.68 II 00.0 II 43.00 II 46.0 29.6 tt „ 43.00 II 40.0 II 46.46 II 40.0 27.28 If 1, 40.46 II 40.0 II 47.11 II 36.0 24.4 yy 1, 47.18 II 80.0 II 48.32 .| 30.0 20.18 |» „ 48.32 II 30.0 II 49.30 II 26.0 16.21 ■vv >f „ 40.30 II 20.0 II 00.14 II 20.0 12.46 „ 00.14 II 20.0 6ape 00.40 $$ 16.0 9.17 „ 00.40 ti 10.0 to Clear, E. 4.34 K. - 19 Cane Clear to Soilly Isles ■ E. 27.39 8. „(4) Halifax to lat 48».'30', lon». 60»0' E. 20.7 S. ' ' u lat 43».30', Ipng. 60».0' to lat 42<».30', long . 06».O' 16.17 n 1, 42.80 11 00.0 It 41.03 It 00.0 9.28 The oounaa and dlBtanoM ure for the " middle" of the Unee. Distance. 109 miles. 187 187 189 198 199 ao7 216 228 83 148 236 231 236 183 249 003 II II tt II 11 II ■jf' .»» II 11 It II It 11 It It Distance. 286 192 237 227 220 232 201 241 226 212 206 199 193 189 101 168 181 220 ■ilos. 11 It It ti II It It II ti It If II 11 II It tt I* •^. « Thus it appears that one lane will practically shorten the distance firom Cape CleartoSandy Hook and the Delaware by 30 miles, while the other prolongs the distance going to Europe 75 miles ; which prolonged distance, when measured not by safety, but in time alone, the Onlf Stream, better weather, and diminished frequency of fogs, will more than compensate for. In my judgment, these lanes, if properly followed, will make the average length of passage, as determined by the mean of all for the year, probably less each way, certainly not more than hour or two longer thait it now u. Individual passages coming will, perhaps, not be made so quickly as they have been, but, on the average, trips will be shortened." Admiral FitzRot has also devoted some attention to this subject, and it is our duty to idlude to it here. " Another question appears to require notice in these pages, because it is still a ' moot point ' with many persons interested in navigating the Northern Atlantic. In a well-known publication Maury particularly recommended ' Lanes for steamers.' " If steamers could always steer direct courses, being full-powered, and not liable to be headed off in occasional heavy seas, such an arrangement might be advantagecus ; but as it is otiierwise, and as screw (auxiliary or mixed) ships sail while steuuing. m PASSAOES OVER THE A' ANTIC, they cannot conveniently keep to preioribed Manes,' however desirable it might otherwise seem. « However, as the traffic increases between Europe and America, some special arrangement may be required, even more urgently than now ; in which case it might perhaps be found practicable to consider an imaginary line, from latitude 50° and longitude 20° to the crossing of 46° N. and 55° W., the ' line of teparation' northward of which should go all vessels bound to the westward, and south of it all those heading to die eastwud. " A great safeguard would be legislative enactment against high speed during fog, heavy rain, or snow: — authoruring'a rnqforittf of passengers to make objection ; to inspect, note, and sign the log, beroie disembarking ; and, by a quorum, to g^vo sab- sequent evidence."-7--'' Meteorological Papen," 1858. mgi leth( ',; 11.— ROUTES BETWEEN NORTHERN EUROPE AND THE UNITED STATES. *' Get your offing and proceed as though yon were bound to Rio, until you get into fhe N.E. trades. Then steer West until you fall in with the track of^^ homeward- bound Rio tradera, and then take that. .' ;, <^ " Shipmasters, bound as above, should study the trade-wind chart carefully, in order to ascertain the extreme northern parallel near which they may rely upon find- ing the N.E. trades. The limits of these for the month should then be marked on the chart for every day reference and use. Having reached the mean polar limits for the month, it will, as a rule, be wise to go 2° or 3° further South in order to be sure of a good time in ' running down the trades.' " Hoaving reached the parallel of 30°, between 20° and 25° W., the best course is still a little to the West of South, until the parallel of 20° N. be reached. Do not care to iuake more than 5° of westing between these two parallels. From 30° N. to 20° N. by this route, the averajre time will be six davs in &11 and winter ; five in spring and summer ; thus putting you fairly within tne trades in 18 days, on the averaffe, from the Channel. It will be less from Lisbon, the ports of Spain, and Gibraltar. <* Now, suppose you enter the trades at a mean between the meridians of 25° and 30° near the parallel of 20°. { you should then ' run them down ' on that parallel to 60° W. It will take ^wo weeks to do this i total, so far, firom the Channel, 32 days. Arrived here, you are in the fair way of homeward-bound Indiamen and Rio traders ; and from this point every navigator knows the way to his port. If it be on the Atlantic, South of the Chesapeake, 10 days, on the average, will put him into it- total, 42 days from the chops of the Channel, and flrom Liverpool a day or two more, trom Spain and Portugal a day or two less, to our Atlantic ports. By this route Savannah is brought nearer than Charleston ; and Femandina, made for the voyage /^om Europe, our nearest southern port. If, on the contrury, he be bound into the Oulf, it will *ake him 15 days, trom the homeward-bound Kio track to put him into New Orleans or Mobile — total to Gulf ports, 47 davs These times arc for ordinary sailers. A smart ship, with a smart captain, will always make the run in less time. " This is a mere general sketch of the average route. Clever navigators will know trom the charts how to vorv it according to the season, and smart ships will gain upon the time, especially in reaching and ' running down the trades.' " The sketch supposes the ship to enter the trades near the intCTBOction of the meridian of 25" with the parallel of ^ 20° N. There is no particular advantagp in ont<>rinff the trades either on that meridian or upon that paraltoi, or of entering them at ull, if you happen to find good winds before you get to the trades. <* Thu8, suppose a vessel to be off the Lizard, bound to Charleston, and that she BETWEEN NORTHERN EUROPE AND THE UNITED STATES. 44© have a 7 or 8 knot breeze that will enable her to lay up direct for port ; why shoiild she, aa long as that wind lasts, run out of her way to find one that will not enable her to do any better P On the contrary, let her take advantage of it to make west- ing as fast as possible, and when it grows lighter or becomes adverse, as it will, then let her master stick her away South in search of a better wind. " By doin^ this, the voyage, as I have sketched it, may be considerably shortened. The trade-wmd chart will show the navigator exactly how far South he ought to go to look for the trades in each month. A reference to this, with the injunction to make the most of a good wind wherever he finds it, seems to be almost the only sail- ing directions that are required for the ports above named, especially in winter and spring. • « In the &11 of 1856, Captain Macloon, of the Oeorfpa, asked to have pointed out to him a better route from Liverpool to Savannah, stating that he had tried three, and had had bv them two passages of sixty days each, and one of fifty-four. The reply was, in suostance : — " ( You ask for a new way to come from Liverpool to Savannah. I* have often thought that if I were in tliat trade, considering tne passage is a long and tedious one, I should try it on the trades ; that is, when you come out of Liverpool, proceed as if you were going to cross the Line, for which you will find sailing directions at page 381 e^ aeq. of this work. Aim to cross the parallel of 30° N. in about 25° W., and then steer S.W. till you get wen i.ito the trades, even if you have to go as far as the parallel of 20° N. Now steer V/est till you g^t about the meridian of 60°, and then haul up for ^our port. If you have a smart ship, and will try this passage next November, you will make something like this run : From Liverpool to the parallel of 30° N., fourteen days ; thence into the trades, say 22° — 20°, five days ; thenue to the meridian of 60°, ten days ; thence to Savannah, seven days ; total, thirty-six " ' Within that time this passage can be made by this route ; but as I suppose the Ocorgia is not a clipper, I will give you a week longer, or forty-three days ; and if " • M. F. Maury.' you do not make it in that time, I shall be disappointed. « From June to October, inclusive, there is not much choice of routes. On the one hand the N.E. trades are uncertain at that season of the year — the hurricane season ; while to the North, calms are most prevalent, and gales less frequent. Dur- ing these months, therefore, the best route is the straight course, for the Atlantic ports especiallv, taking advantage of the winds as they present themselves, for they are too unstable for one to go either to the North or South to look for them. " At this season of the year the calm belt of Cancer is far North, and vessels that attempt to make westing between 28" and 34° will find the winds more baffling than they will either to the North or the South of those parallels. I caution navigators to avoid the belt between thf;cte parallels as much as possible ; and when they have to cross it, I advise them to cross it nearly on a meridian. The trade- wind chart shows the position of this calm belt for each month. Transient vessels, boimd into Philadelphia and New York, would find the southern route, in the winter months, the most desirable on account of the weather, but the passage by it would, at that the most favourable season for it, bo prolonged about a week on tne average. The mistake that has been generally made by vessels taking the southern route is in their not going far enough South to get well into the trades. The trade-wind chart will leave no one in doubt upon that point, and no vessel attempting the southern route should think of steering North, whatever be her port, uhtil she mils into the great track followed by the homeward-bound vessels from the other hemisphere. Tliey eross 25" N. in about G6° W= " Dull-sailing passenger-ships from the North of Europe would do well, especially 3 L 460 PASSAGES OVER THE ATLANTIC, fifom December to March, inchwive, by takins the sonthem route, even though they be bound to New York. If they cannot gain time by this route, they will gain at least smooth water and pleasant weather until they reach the offings of our own coasts. " In summer the great circle route is the best to all the Atlantic ports. Even for the Gulf ports and Cuba the route in the summer time should be decided upon accord- ing to the wind one meets with while gaining an offing from Europe, rather than by considerations growing out of any fancied preference as to winds by the way. If they be such as to force you to the South, make as much westing as you can beforG nrossin^ tixe parallel of 38°. Having urossed th."'^. parallel it is then advisable to go South in search of the N.E. trades to carry you into the Gtlf. ,.; " The reason why theTforth or Great Circle route is recommended to vessels botind into any of the Atlantic ports during the summer and fall months, from May to October, inclusive ; — the reason why no preference is given to the southern route over the Great Circle during that period, even for Gulf-bound vessels ; and the ivason why such decided preference is given to the southern route, from December to March, may be gathered from a little reflection as to the course of the trade-winds and a careful consideration. " From December to March gales of wind arc most frequent along the northern route. These arc mostly from the westward. This circumstance, therefore, is against the Great Circle route in the winter time. But ftt)m May to October the case is different. The gales along the Great Circle are much less prevalent. , ' " On the other hand, the trade-winds being a flow of air from colder to warmer latitudes, the difierence of temperature between the calms of Cancer, from which, and the calm belt of tho Equator, into which, the trade-winds flow, is greater in the winter than in the summer time. Consequently the more rapid, constant, and steady is the winter flow. " In the summer, however, the air in the calm belt of Cancer, though it be as far Noilh as 35°, nttains as high a temperature, especially on the continents of Africa and America, as it does in the belt of equatorial cplms. Then why should not tho air flow towards those continental heated places as well as to the Equator P It does j and thus the trnde-winds are frequently broken up in the summer time, and therefore they cannot be relied on as in winter. There is another reason why the winter trades riiould be fresher, more steady, and constant than tho summer trades, and it is this : In the winter time the calm belt of Cancer, out of which the trade-winds flow, is tmrne fiGO or 600 miles nearer than it is in the summer time to the equatorial calm belt into which the trade-winds blow — the places of high and low barometer are then closer to each other — and no one engaged in the business of commerce need be told that the closer the places of demand and supply be together the more certain and ■toady will be the supply. " And there is al: -j another reason why the southern route, even by the Gulf-bound ships, should be abandoned, and why the Great Circle route should bo preferred in the summer time, wliich is this: From July to October ihe hurricane season mgrs in the V jst Indies, while frome Juno to October tho gale charts show the Great Circle route to be the least stormy. " These remarks about the southern route, for vessels bound in winter as far North «8 the Chesapeake and New York, are intended especially for the passenger sliips from Bremen, Hamburg, and other ports in tho North of Europe, ond they are earncsfly commended to the attention ot the masters of such ships. — Mattry. ■jm^ ( 451 ) .ii;*,*!.'* 1 though they hey will gain j[8 of our own ia. Even for 1 upon accot-d- ratner than by the way. If you can before avisable to go I vessels bound ft-om May to cm route over le leason why March, may and a careful ; the northern fore, is against ;r the case ig Icr to warmer am which, and greater iu the nt, and steady |h it be as far ents of Africa lould not tho :or ? It does j and therefore winter trades and it is this : i^inds flow, is [uatorial calm meter are then need be told e certain and ic Gulf-bound p preferred in NcaHon mgrs DW the Great as far North ger shijJH from are earnestly 12.— Fi; ■:. THE UNITED STATES TO THE EQUATOR. In a previous section (pages 387 — 403) the passage from Europe to southern lati< tudes was discussed, and it was thei-e shown that a more veeaterly crossing than has heretofore been usual has been attended with great advantage. To those pages we, therefore, refer the reader for the arguments \duch equally apply to the voyage from the western side of the Atlantic. One of the gi-eat results of Captain Maury's inquiries hfts been the improvement of this route ; and before such a mass of evidence had been collected, he recommended the Great Circle route to the longitude of 31° West on the Equator, as has been alluded to on page 394. This route considered in connection with the direction of the winds and currents is that which would naturally be chosen, if the crossing in that longitude would be considered to be a safe one to guard against being diifted to leeward of Cape St. Roquc. Later experience has shown this fear to be fallacious in a great measure, and that it seldom occurs that vessels get into difficulties hero. Captain Maury devotes 220 pages of closely printed matter to this question ) but, as his results wiil answer our purpose as well, we will briofly select uie prominent points elicited : — " Off St. Boque, in Brazil, the tracks of all vessels bound out of the North Atlantic ocean into the soatiiem hemisphere fall in with each other. This is the great paw- way between the North Atlantic and the other g^at oceans of the world. Here the tracks of vessels, both from. Europe and America, come together, whether their desti- nation be around either Cape Horn or the Cape of Good Hope. Passing the offlnes of this great promontory of Brazil, tho highway then forks. All vessels for Indm« China, or Australia, hugging the wind, turn off to the East ; those that arc bound around Cape Horn keep straight on ; while those that are bound to tho La Plata, to Rio, or any of the South American ports, being restricted in their courses by the winds on one hand and the land on the other, make the best of their way South, and turn off to the right as they reach the proper parallel. For the:ie last,^ no further sailing directions are required after passing St. iiaque. Tiieir way is plain. " The following time table, by the new route, the old and the middle, is derived from the logs of 1,160 voyages, and it therefore may be held to embody tho expe- rience of 1,160 navigators touching the best route hence to the ' fair- way of St. Roque.' Tho meaning of this table is so plain that analysis and discussion can add but littlo to the force of its own silent story. This table shows, for each month, the average time from port to 30" N. ; the place of crossing that parallel, and the time thence to the Equator, and the place of crossing it, also, by each of tho three routes. It shows, also, the distance from 30° N. to the Equator, and the average number of miles ' made good ' daily for so much of each route as is included between these parallels. '* The daily distances give to the navigator practically the best idea possible as to tho difference in the winds by these several routes as they cross the N.L. trade-wind belt, supposing that belt to lie • all the year round between tho Equator and tho parallel of 30 N. Thus, in some months, as in October, for inntance, there appears to be practically no differonco in the winds, the average rate of sailing being H7 miles per day by the old route, 8H by the new, and 90 by tho middle ; a difference purely accidental, for the N.E. trades are, at this season, pretty nearly broken up. The gain by the new route, for -this month, is not in crossing tno trade-wind belt, but in reaching it. It takes, from our Atlantic {mrts, 12 6 days to reach it by .the new route, 19 by the old, and 16 by tho middle j and having crossed 30" N., tho trade-winds thence to the Equator, at this seiuion, are the same for all routes. Not so at other seasons. 452 'k PASSAGES OVER THE ATLANTIC. " Time Tabh by the Different Rowtea. \f. December Old route „ Middle „ II New „ January Old „ • )i ■ ■ Middle „ „ New „ Februarj Old „ „ Middle „ „ New „ March Old „ „ Middle ^, II New „ April Old „ i> Middle „ „ New „ May Old „ „ Middle „ „ New „ June Old „ '^ M . Middle „ ,-;• New „ July Old „ „ Middle „ „ New „ August Old „ „ Middle „ „ New „ September .... Old „ „ Middle „ II New „ October Old „ „ Middle „ „ New „ November .... Old „ I, Middle „ » New „ LONG. OF OROSSmO— DATS FEOM — Distance from 30»N.toLine. 30° N. Line. Port to 30» N. 300 N. to Line. Longitttde. Longitude. Lays. Bays. Total Average o miles. per day. 32-2 W. >5-5 W. 18-9 20-4 1835 equal 89 366 29-1 12-6 20-6 1860 „ 90 447 315 lOS 160 1965 „ 131 343 244 171 17-4 1885 „ 108 34*5 281 16-2 14-9 1830 „ 125 43'a 30 10-9 14-3 1960 „ 137 295 22-6 16-6 23-2 1835 „ 79 351 256 16-7 14-6 1870 „ 128 4a 5 30-2 11-8 14-3 . 1940 „ 135 31-2 237 16-4 20-9 I860 „ 89 33 282 14-2 17-2 1820 „ 106 4*5 29 11-6 16-3 1970 „ 121 3>4 2i-6 17-2 181 1835 „ 101 33'» 281 16-7 17-2 1825 „ 106 40-6 299 13-7 15-8 1910 ,. 121 33 H 22-8 19-4 1865 „ 86 364 291 19-5 20-2 1855 „ 92 41 -2 3» 12-9 16-6 1890 „ 114 3»'7 26-4 211 23-6 1830 „ 71 395 282 17-6 21-4 1920 „ 90 435 307 13-8 21-2 1945 „ 92 316 242 24-6 20-3 1850 „ 91 421 277 151 24-4 1990 „ 82 45 •> 30'5 13 205 2000 „ 97 316 a5 3 22 22 1830 „ 83 41-4 267 16 22-2 2000 „ 90 457 30'4 14-2 244 2010 „ 82 33-8 252 19-3 230 1867 „ 81 388 29 16-8 26-6 1880 „ 73 4' 7 3«5 16-8 16-4 1890 „ 115 289 267 19 20-7 - 1810 „ 87 33 »9-5 16 20 1815 „ 90 43 317 12-6 21-9 1930 „ 88 3> >5-8 17-7 18-9 1830 „ 97 344 28-9 20-2 19-8 1825 „ 94 4>-5 30.7 11-8 18-7 1940 „ 104 " From 30° N. to the line, the average distance sailed daily during the winter months is 92 miles b^ the old route against 134 by the new. To what is this difference owing P Are the ships that take the new route the faster P That can hardly be. They arc better navigated I have no doubt, for, as a rule, the log-books show that. But still that is not sufficient to account for all this difference. In winter a ship that takes the new route from 30° to the line will go nearly as far, on the avera^, m one day as she could go in a day and a half by the old rout«. This is owing, in a great measure, to the fact that the new route lies through a region of the ocean where the breezes are brisk, and brisk breezes always help to make both offlcors and crew brisk. This great difference of time and speed is probably owing to this circimistanco more than to any other." 1. a vessel ing froj its vi6l gnfficiei to the storm. anoe from ST. to Line. I Average per day. equal 89 » 90 i> 131 » 108 ft 125 » 137 >» 79 >» 128 »» 135 » 89 » 106 » 121 » 101 » 106 »• 121 n 86 n 92 n 114 i» 71 n 00 n 92 >» 91 » 82 1* 97 n 83 It 90 II 82 II 81 II 73 II 115 II 87 II 90 II 88 II 97 II 94 )i 104 the winter B difference hardly be. show that. a ship that 0^, in one , in a great where the crew brisk, tanco more ( 453 ) 13.— MONITIONS AND INSTRUCTIONS FOR VESSELS NAVIGATING ON THE WESTERN SIDE OF THE ATLANTIC; by Mr. Redfield, of New York. 1. Between the latitudes of 32' and 45° (the parallels of Geor^ and Nova Scotia) a vessel bound to the eastward, on being overtaken by a gale which commences blow- ing from any point to the eastward of S.E., or E.S.E., may avoid some portion of its violence, by putting her head to the northward, and when the has veered snfficiently in the same direction, may safely resume her course. But, by standing] to the southward, in like circumstauces, she will probably fall into the heart of the storm. 2. Within the same region, a vessel, on being taken in.a gale from S.E., or points near thereto, will probably soon find itself in the heart of a storm ; and, after its first fary is spent, may expect its recurrence from the opposite quarter. The most promising mode of mitigating the effect of its violence, and at tu^ same time shorten- ing its duration, is to stand to the southward upon the wind, so long as may be necessary or possible ; and if the movement succeeds, the vnnd will gradually head to the southwai-d ; and, if the wind does not veer, be prepared for a blast from the north-west. 3. With the wind at East or N.E., a vessel, by scudding a gale, shortens its dura- tion. By scudding, on the contrary, before a south-westerly or westerly gale, you will thereby increase its duration. 4. A vessel, on pursuing her way to the westward or south-westward, meets the storms in their course, and thereby shortens the periods of their occurrence ; and will encounter more gales in an equal number of days, than if stationary, or sailing in a contrary direction. 5. Vessels, on the other hand, while sailing to the eastward or north-eastward, or, in the course of the storms, will lengthen the periods between their recurrence, and consequently experience them less fi^equently than vessels sailing on a different course. The difference of exposure, which results from these opposite courses, on the Ame- rican coast, may, in most cases, be estimated as nearly 2 to 1. .- 6. The barometer, whether in the higher or lower latitudes, always sinks while under the first portion or moiety of the storm on every part of its track, excepting, perhaps, its extreme northern margin, and thus often affords the earliest and surest indication of the approaching tempest. The mercury always rises a^oin during the passage of the last portion of the gale, and commonly attains the maximum of its ele- vation on the entire departure of the storm. The indications of the barometer ought not to be neglected, even should the fall of the mercury be unattended by any appearance of violence in the weather, as the other side of the gale will be pretty sure to take effect, aift often in a manner so sudden and violent, as to more than com- pensate for its previous forbearance. The pro^ostics engraved on the scale are not to be regarded : the mere rising and falling oi the mercury are the particulars to be attended to. 7. The vicissitudes of winds and weather which do not conform to the implied specifications, are more fi^quent in April, May, and June, than in other months. Easterly or southerly winds, under which the barometer rises, or maintains its eleva- tion, are not of a gyratory or stormy character ; but such winds frequently terminate in the falling of the barometer, and the usual phenomena of an easterly form. SECTION IV. ^t■■ ui / / , .■ itu- ...-i- ' Ur^> ,. PARTIOULAE DESCRIPTIONS OF THE COASTS AND ISIAND8 OF THE NORTH ATLANTIC; WITH DU?ECTIONS FOR SAIL- ING AMONG THE ATLANTIC ISLES. The Bbarinos and Courses are those by Compass, unless where otherwise ex- proHsed: but those given ih\ia{^W.S.JF.'] signify the Tkub: and the given direction of Wind, Tide, and Current, is to be considered as the Tuub. 1.— ENGLAND, IRELAND, FRANCE, SPAIN, AND PORTUGAL. It would be beyond the limits and scope of the the present work to enter into the minute description and directions for the extensive line of coast of North-wcHtem Europe, which would be sufHciont guide to the mariner, such details must bo sought for in the special Sailing Directions which accompany each chart, and where all necessary instructions are given. This book being specially concerned with the general navigation and phenomena of the ocean, only those more prominent features sought for m an over sea voyage in the more fi-equentcd coasts, or those which may not be given in any other of our publications are here alluded to. THE EITOLISH CHAKHEL is amply described in our Sailing Directions for the same, and on pages 378 to 381 arc given some useful remarks as to its general navigation, with wnicn most sailors are now well acquainted. In passing from the Strait of Dover westward, the first place where shelter may be found on the English coast is Dungeness Bay. The lighthouses aro amply described in the lists in the preceding part of the volume. Dungeness lies 20 miles W.S.W. | "W. from the South Foreland, and 13 miles S.W. by W. J W. from Folkestone. Upon it stands an excellent lighthouse and buildings connected therewith, painted red. It shows a brilliant fixed light nt 92 feet. « Dungeness forms a remarkable shingle point, projecting in a S.S.E. direction 4 milcit beyond the fair line of the coast, afiording shelter in the East Bay from North round westerly to East, or for niiiotucii points oi the compass. If there is any southing of East in the wind there is no shelter in cither bay. The quantity of bottom in both bays is fine sand over clay and mud, and excellent holding ground throughout. To the W. I S., distant 3^ miles from Dungeness lighthouse, lies the eastern end of a narrow ridge of sand, called Stephenson Shoal ; it thence extends for nearly three quarters of a mile in the same direction, ond carries a depth of from 19 to 23 feet water, with 4 or 5 fathoms around it. East Mill, at Lydd, on with No. 4 Coast Guard Houses, bearing K.N.E. J E., clears the Eastern end in 5 fathoms; Rvf Church on with the Ncw^Church spire near Rye Harbour, N.N.W. 1 W., T-lcars tnc we»tcrii end in 27 feet ; Fairlight Church and Mill in one, leads half a mile to the THE COASTS AND ISLANDS OF THE NORTH ATLANTIC. 456 and excellent Bouth-west ; and the South Foreland and Dungeness Lights in one, three-qnarten of a mile to the southward. The West Road of Dangeness is that space between the first building to the west- ward of the liehthouse, and the Black coast guard buildings at Jewrys Gap. It affoi'ds good shelter against north-easterly winds with the wind as far to the south- ward as E. by S.( and is much frequented by vessels bound to the northward. The best anchorage, in about 6 fathomn, is with 'Romney Church tower in one with Lydd Church, and Dungeness Lighthouse E. \ S. Smaller vessels may run Airther in towards the beach, guarding always against a sudden shift of wind. The western tide runs easy, and raords a good slack for running or working in. East Road affords good shelter to vessels of all classes in from 4 to 12 fathoms, upon pretty good holding ground with the wind between N. by E. and S.W. The best position for anchoring is, Lydd Chuvch just open to the northward of No. 2 Bat- tery, and the lighthouse bearing S.W. by W. J W., in 7 fathoms water. The Royal Sovereign Shoals are o number of rocky banks which lie directly in the track of vessels proceeding between Beachy Head and Dungeness. The principal names to them ai'e, the Royal Sovereign, Horse of Willingdon, Elphick Tree, Rattan Shoal, Kinsman Nab, Long Shoal, and Southern Head. The Royal Sovereign has only 10 feet water on its shoalest part. It lies E.S.E. I E. 6 7-lOths miles irora the signal house on Beachy Head, and the marks for the shoalest part are, the first tower standing to the eastward of the Grand Redoubt at Eastbourne m one with the western edge of Willingdon chalk-pit, and Fairlight Mill just opening of Hastings Castlo Cliff. A nun buoy of large dimensions, painted black, and surmounted by a staff and ball, is moored half a cable's length to the southward of the 10 feet natcli. The Horse of Willingdon consists of s^no and rock, and lies N.W, by W. 2 nmes from the Royal Sovereign Buoy. Seaford Cliff, kept in sight to the southward of the pitch of Beachy Head, vdll lead at least 2 miles to the southward of the Royal Sovereign Shoals. Beachy Head light, kept open of the next eastern cliff, also leads outside all the shoals. Fairlight Mill, in a line with the N.W. part of the cliff eastward of Hastings, leads to the eastward of them. In the Strait of Dover are some shoals of coarse sand and shells which very much contract the navigation, of which the Vame and the Ridge are the most dan- gerous. Besides these there is the BossurcUe with 22 feet, and the Vergoyer with 12 feet, least water. Their position will be known by the chart. The Vame. the northernmost shoal, is steep-to, and runs in a N.E. by E. and S.W. by W. direction, and is about 4^ miles in length between the depths of 7 fathoms at each end ; its breadth varying from half to three quarters of a mile. The Hhoalest water on it is 9 feet at about a mile from its north-east end. At its west end is a light vessel showing a Quick revolving red light, and at 5 miles N.E. by E. ^ E. of it is a red beacon buoy. There are strong ripplings over this bank both at springs and neaps, and during tempestuous weather a heavy Bea, which would endanger any vessel attempting t,o cross it. Folkestone Church seen between two conspicuous chalk- pits on the face of the distant hills, N.W. by N., clears the north-east end of the shoal m 7 fathoms, and leads a mile to the north-eastward of the shoal patch of 9 feet which bears S. by W. \ W., 8| miles from Dover Castle ; and the eastern terrace at Sandgate between the above chalk-pits N. I W., or the square tower of Lympne Church on with Lympne Windmill, clears the south-west end. The north-east end of the Ridge (or le Colbart) in 7 fathoms lies about 2 miles to the south-eastward of the body of the Yarne, having 16 to 20 fathoms in the channel between them ; it then takes a S.W. \ W. direction for about 8i miles to the same depth, and is about three quarters of a mile broad. Like the former shoal, it is steep- to, and composed of sand and broken shells, the shoal ])atchea lying in ridges acroc^s the stream, which occasion strong eddies even at neap tides. There is much sea on it durinff a weather tide, and in bad weather it breaks upon the shoalest parts ; no vessel should therefore at that time attempt to crosK it under any circumntanees. The shoalest water of 6 feet lies about 2j miles from the south west end, with the summit 1166 DESCRIPTIONS OF THE COASTS AND ISLANDS of Mount Couple a little open to the southward of Cape Grisnez ; S.E. IE., 13| miles, from Dungeness Lwhthouse, and W.N.W. \ W. 10| miles from Cafie Grisnes. The mark for the north-eastern extreme of the shoal, in 7 fiithoms water, which bears K.W. I N. 8| miles from Cape Griznez, is, the high trees at the back of Hythe in one with the Swiss Terrace at Sandgate ; and Mont Lambert (a very conspicuous hill pear Boulogne, with a fort on it) in one with the dome of the new cathedral in the Upper Town of Boulogne, S.E. ^ E., or Sandgate Swiss Terrace between the two cluuk'pits, N. \ E. or the Revolving Light on Cape Grisnez bearing E. | S., leads to the southward of the south-western extreme in 9 mthoms. From Beachy Head to the S.E. part, or Elbow, of the Owers (the light-vessel), the bearing and distance are W. by N. 12 leagues ; and to St. Catharine s Point, on the same bearing, the distance is 20 leagues. From Beachy Head to Selsea Bill the coast trends in a curve ; but the direct bearing and distance are W.N.W., \ W. \Z\ leagues. Seqford Road. — Between Shoreham and Beachy Head the depths very gradually decrease from the ofBng towards the land, and vessels may anchor all along the coast with ofT-shoie winds in from 2 to 9 fathoms water ; but the anchofaro of most general resort is that in Seaford Road, which lies between the tide mill which stands to tiie eastward of Newhaven and the Mortella Tower near the beach at Seaford. The best anchorage in the road is between the tower and Blatchington Battery, with Beachv Head Lighthouse jtist shut in by tiie cliffs, over a bottom of sand, shells, and mua. At this anchorage Beachy Head Cliffs will afford shelter with the wind as far southerly 88 E.S.E., and it is therefore superior to the western Bay of Dungeness. Seofora Head is often mistaken for Beachy Head by vessels coming up channd within 4 or 6 miles of the land ; they may however be distinguished by ihete being a small build- ing on the behest part of Beachy Head, whereas there is nothing on the former but a conspicuous large green pactch on the face of it. At nine miles westward of Seaford Roads is the town of Brighton, the lights of which are conspicuous at nig|ht, and at 8 or 9 miles beyond this is Worthing, another watering place. The coast is generally very low. At 6 miles to the N.N.E. of Worthing is Chanctonberry ring, a larg^ circular thick Sove of trees 964 feet above the sea, and is frequently the first object seen on making e land. A reference to this object would often assist the mariner when all other objects are too low or indistinct to be observed. At 13 miles beyond Worthing is Selsea Bill, off which runs the line of shoals marked at its S.E. point by the Owers Light-vessel, showing one light. These shoals are described in the Directions for the Channel. The anchorage in Pagham Bay between the Owers and the coast is familiar to sea- men under the name of the Park, which is well sheltered from the violence of W. and S.W., winds, but most unsafe with the wind anything to the eastward of south. The holding ground is excellent, being a stiff clay under a thin crust of gravel ; but the anchorage cannot be recommended as a refuge for large vessels owing to the fre- quent and sudden shifts of wind, and the astonishing rapidity with which the sea gets up. The above observation is particularly applicaole during the winter months, for a long dreary night in the Park is anything but a desirable situation to be placed in. : ' ■''" - Small vessels may brin^ up with the Mixon Beacon bearing W.S.W., and Pagham Watch House on with Chichester Spire, in about 3 fathoms at low water ; but laree vessels should anchor further out and more to the eastward, with the spire to the westward of Bow Hill, the Mixon Beacon bearing W. by N., and the Owers Light- vessel S. by W. I W., both for geater depth of water and increased facility of getting away from the coast, in the event of being surprised by a shift of wind. The nearer the Mixon is approached, the stronger the tide runs. SPITHEAD.— The limits of the best anchorage at Spithead are Southsea Castle N.E. to E. by N., and Gilkicker Point N.N.W. to N.W. A good berth for large ships is with Portsdown Windmill on the end of the trees on Portsmouth Lines N.E. \ N.u 3 IE., 13| miles Grisnec. The r, which bears f Hythe in one mspicaous hill ithediral in the ween the two . I S., leads to » lijfht-VBssel), ine 8 Point, on Selsea Bill the V.N.W., i W. rery gradually long the coast f moist general L stands to tiie ird. The best , with Beachv ells, and mua. i far southerly less. Seafoia lel within 4 or a small brnld- he former bat , the lights of thing, another circular thick en on making rhen lUI other ihoals marked ese shoals are imiliar to sea- iolence of W. ard of south, gravel; but ng_ to the fre- rhich the sea inter months, uation to be aiid Pagham er; butlarsfe spire to the )wers Light- ly of getting The nearer a Castle N.E. arge ships is s N.E. i Ku OF THE NORTH ATLANTIC. 4«7 and Kickergill Tower on the western end of Monkton Barracks N. by W. f W. in from 10 to 12 fothoms water ; but small firigates and vessels of li^ht draught may berth themselves nearer to the Spit sand, in about 7 fiithoms, care being taken not to open Kickergill Tower ^hmt the ea«t end of the jBarradu. Vessels moored should have open hawse to the southward. The navigation of the Solent and the excellent anchorage of Southampton Water, with the entrance by the Needles Channel, will be found in oar Directions. They require too much space to be described here. -^ In the southern part of Poole Bay the ground is clear, aild there is an open an- chorage in 6 or 7 fiitnoms water, over sand and gravel, with Studland Church bearing west 1| miles. In the northern part of the bay, however, are several patehes ^ dangerous rocks, with 6 and 7 &thoms between them. Sludland Bau lies on the north side of Standfiut Point, and affords good anchorage for small vessels during westerly winds ; and if a south easterhr gak should drive them from their anchors, the banks withm are soft mud. The best anchorage is off three remarkable projections in the chalk cliff, called the Yards, in about 2 ntthoma water, and near me following bearings : — ^the Agglestone (a large square rock on a small hill half a mile inland) open to the northwfunl of the coast guard buildings on Red-end Point, W. by N. f N., and Old Hairy S.E. by S. Porfland. — ^The Roads of Portland lie between Weymouth and the North end of Portland, which bears firom the jetty of Wevmouth S. by W. ^ W., distant 2| miles. In these roads the ground is excellent, in from 6 to 7 fathoms, with the North Point of Portland bearing S. by W. Portland Castle S.W. about 1^ miles distant, with the West CUfb of Portland just open, and Bellefield Hall on with Weymouth or Sandsfoot Old Castle, N.N.W. f W. Iliere is also good ground in 12 and 13 fiithoms, witii the North Point of Portland S.S.W. ^ W. In these roads you wiU ride safely with westerly and southerly winds. The Bill, or southernmost point of Portland, lies W. by N. 6 leagues from St. Alban's Head, and about 3| miles to the southward of the North point of the isle. It has a white obelisk on ite extremity, and half a mile within it are two white light- houses, which bear, when in one, N.N.W. i W., and are 1,509 feet apart. When in one they lead between the Shambles and the Bill, but allowance should be made for the set of the tide. The lights of Portland are brilliant and nxed. Height of the high light, 194 feet above the sea, and seen at 4 leagues. The latter is viable from W.N.W. seaward to E.byN. SHAMBLES. — The eastern end of the Shambles, a dangerous shoal, of coarse shingle, sand, and shells, bears from St. Alban's Heaid W. ^ N. 11| miles, and from the Bill of Portland, E.S.E. 4 miles. The bank extends thence W. by N. 2 miles, and the West end lies with the Bill of Portland N.W. | W. 2| miles. It is steep all round, having 14 fathoms close to it; but always shows itself bv' a break or ripple. On its East and West ends are fh)m 6 to 7 fathoms ; but, near the middle, are only 11 feet at low water. The shoal, in fine weather, is always distinguishable by the rippling. The tide rises over it about 10 feet perpendicular. Ite outer end is marked by a light-vessel. The breakwater abute on to the N.E. point of the island, and runs off shore in a direct line East, by compass, for 3,500 feet ; but at the distance of 2,000 feet from the shore is an opening of 4^ feet wide, between two circular heads of masonry. From the eastern end it ciuTes round to a true North direction for 5,600 feet, making the total length of the breakwater, when completed, 3,000 yards, or nearly 1^ miles. Its outer extremity will be in 8 or 9 fathoms water, and the depth of 4 fathoms will be found 1| miles vrithin the pier. During the progress of the works, a red light is shown from the extremity of the stage, elevated 30 feet, visible 8 miles off. As the stone thrown over during the works extends beneath the water to some distance; vessels should net approach it cable's lengtii. This x-efuge harbour affords shelter from nearly all winds. y M 4M DESCRIPTIONS OF THE COASTS AND ISI,ANDS TORBAY. — The entrance into the bay, fonned by Hob's Nose and Berry Head, ia 3^ miles 'wide, and the ground within is generally clear and good. In fsailipg in, yon may, if necessary, keep close either to Berry Head or the Orestone. To sail oetween the Orestone and Loadstone, keep nearly in mid-channel, taking care not to ap- proach too near the Wesl side of the Orestone, as the water is shoal for half a cable's length from the rock on that side. To the S.W. by S., a little more than a cable's, length from the Orestone, there is a suuken rock, with only 6 or 8 feet over it at low water. Ships may anchor in Torbay in 6, 7, 8, and 9 fathoms ; the ground is strong clar, and remarkably good. The common marks for anchoring are, Berry Head Soutn, 8. by E., or S.S.E., and Brixham Church on with the pier-head. The best ground is about a mile a from Brixham pier-head, in 7 fathoms of water ; but ships may ride, well sheltered, on the North siae. A g^eat swell is forced into the bay by easterly winds ; but, about 1| miles from Brixham pier-head, there is an underset to windwara, by means of which ships ride easier than m other parts of the bay. In general, the deeper that you anchor in the bay, the better will be the riding, bemg more out of the stream. From the middle of the bay, in 7 fa^oms, Berry Head l^ars S.S.E., and the Orestone E.N.E. Small vesseb commonly lie aground at Brixham, on the South side, and at Torquay, on the North side, of the bay. Dartmonfh. — The entrance of Dartmouth Harbour lies nearly 2 leagues from Benv Head, and about 7 miles to the N.E. of the Start Point. It is situated between two aiffh lands, within which is an excellent harbour, sufficiently capacious to contain 90d sau of yessels, secure fh>m aU winds, in frt>m 7 to 15 fathoms. 2^e coast between Berry Head and the entrance of Dartmouth Harbour is rocky; but the rocks, some of which are above vrater, as represented on the charts, do not extend more than three-quarters of a mile off, but they require the utmost caution. The entrance of the harbour is narrow, and the opening does not readily unfold itself to vessels coming team, the soutJiward : the square steeple, however, of Stoke Fleming; Church, which stands very conspicuously near a white house upon the land to the «outh-we6tward of the harbour's mouth, as shown in the chart, will serve to mark iu. position nearly, until, by a nearer approach, Kingswear Old Castle and St. Petrox Church become visible. St. Petrox Church and Dartmouth Caatle are on the western side of the entrance, within St. Petrox Point. A fixed light, of a deep red colour, is shown from the tower of the castle on St. Petrox Point, at the height of 41' feet above the level of high water, and visible when bearing between N.W. ^ N. and N. by E. at the distance of 7 miles. Ships coming in from sea, if obliged to wait for an oppHortunity of enterii^, gene- rally anchor without, in the part called the Range, within BlacKstone and Froward Points, which has a depth of from 7 to 10 fathoms. Here they lie safely when the wind does not blow in ; and when it does, it will lead into the harbour. From S.W. to E.S.E., the wind blows true in, and from N.W. to N.E. true out : all other winds blow in flaws. Pilots are always ready, with boats for toviring and a steam-tug whenever required: a signal may, therefore, be hoisted for one, when approaching the Bang^. Exclusive of the Mewatone, and other rocks above water, which lie on the eastern side of the Range, there are several sunken rocks, extending outward to the distance of 150 fathoms from the shore on the same side. For the outermost of these rocks the mark is a house, with a balcony, on the North end of Custom-house Quay, bearing N.N.W., on with the easternmost end of Dartmouth Castle. This mark, vrill, there- fore, lead clear of the rest. The Castle Ledge Buoy i^ black, and lies in 4J fathoms, with St. Petrox Church in line with the centre of a grove of trees on the back land, N.N.W., and a conspicuous double pointed rock off Comb Point in line with the house on Sladton Rock, W. | S. On the western side of the Range is the Homestone, a rock having only fl feet over it at low water, which lies about 200 fathoms S.S.W. from a high and steep rook, called the Blackstone, lying near the western shore. The buoy on it is black and white, in circular stripes, and lies in 7 fathoms, with Kinj^swear Old Castle, its breadth open of the Blackstonw Beach, N.E. f N. j and Stoke * leming OF THE NORTH ATLANTIC. 460 Church, its len^ down the slope of Comb Point, W. by N. The ladcQe of tiie Blackstone bearing N.E. by N., and on witii Kingswear Cietle, is the mark fbr the Homestone. The PiK Hook, a tery formidable danger, lies one-third of a mile eastward <^ the Homestone. Although well known to tne fishermen and pilots, it has only recently been placed on the Government charts, having escaped tiie vigilance of former sur- veyors. On the Pins Point a depth of 13 feet was found, ana it may perhaps have less water. The cross marks for the 13 feet are : the East Blaoksto^e and south point of Mowstone in one, E. | S., and Daitmouth Caetle flag-staff in one with a white house in trees on Yarrow Bank N. ^ W. ; the same house open of Battery Point clears it to ^e eastward, and shut in with St. Petrox Church, to the westward. There is a safe channel between the Pin and the Homestone. The following mark is to be observed as a thwart mark for the Sunken Booka on the East side. To the eastward of Dartmouth is a red point, beneath which, near the,, water, the earth appears black, and there is a white stone in the red part above. When the white stone comes directly over the black part below, you will be abreast. of the rocks. The town ^uay, if it can be seen, kept on with the middle of the entrance of the harbour, will lead clear of them. To sail in for Dartmouth from the eastward, with a leading wind, firom off the Mewstone steer for Comb Point, until you bring Kingswear Point on with JDart- moath Castle ; thence, by steering with this mark on, you will clear the eastern ledge. When nearly abreast of the Blackstone, keep the castle open on l&e port' bow, until the southernmost house in Kingswear is ojpen of Dartmouth Castle Point. This mark leads clear of the rock called the Cheekstone, whence you may run in and anchor. A chequered black and white buoy, and marked " Cheekstone," is placed in 3f fiithoms water, about 25 or 30 fathoms S.E. of the rock. -From it the bearing is, the southernmost house at Kingswear, touching the point under St. Petioz, To sail in firom the westward, with a leading wind, give a good berth to the Comb's Bocks, which lie off the shore on the West side ; then steer to the eastward, until Kingswear Castle is open to the eastward of the Blackstone. This mark kept on will carry you clear of the Homestone. With Stdce Church shut in, you will nave Cd the Homestone, and may steer for the Blackstone. Having passed the latter, ^ Dartmouth Castle on the port bow, and proceed as above. Great inconvenience attends the ingress to, and egress from, Dartmouth Harbour, in consequence of the frequent and violent flaws of wind, which issue very suddenly from the high lands. Therefore no square-rigged vessel should attempt to enter or leave the harbour without a leading wind. Between S.W. by S. and S.E. by E. the winds blow truly in, and as truly out when between N.W. W N. and N.E. Even cutters cannot always succeed in getting to sea with S.W. winds. Start Point may be well known from its rugged oock's-comb-like appearance \ the hillocks on its nde within the lighthouse are Eve in number, each about 200 feet in height. Peartree Head, within the point, rises to 386 feet. There are no dangers in the vicini^ of its projecting points to the south and S.W., except the Pear Tree, the Stait, and Chcrrick Bocks ; the latter lies S. % W. upwards of 2 cables' lengths from the point, and is just awash at low water springs. A sunken rock, with only 12 feet water over it, also lies at the same distance due east from the lighthouse ; to avoid it a vessel should not shut in the Village of Hall Sands with the Start Point, until the Pear Tree Rocks open out to the southward of the Start Rocks, when, by giving the latter a berth of about 2 cables' lengths, she may proceed to the westward. A Lighthouse htCs been erected upon the Start at 140 yards its extreme point; it is a stone tower 94 feet high, exhibiting a powerful revolving light, at an elevation of 204 feet above high water, and showing a bright flash every minute to seaward, till it comes to the bearing of W.S.W., on which it is eclipsed, and mav be seen in clear weaiucr at the distance of 19 miles. A fixed light is also shown u the same tower, y^' 460 DESCRIPTIONS OF THE COASTS AND ISLANDS fi.' ^ fipef <^ott INg}i wator, in the direction of Bernr Head, visible only when the nt bvarfl W | 8. and S.W. by S., to goioe yeMele to Dartmouth and the '«d. To thi irth-eMHl ward of tho Stort lies a dangerous bank of pulverised shell and fine gravel, ofUled tho Skerries. To avoid the Skerries at night, a vessel should not approach them witliin 20 fathohis water ; and in coming from tho northward, if wishing to run to the westward of them, she should keep the fixed light on a S.W. ^ S. bearing, and pium the Start at a distance of a quaiter of a mile on its northern side, and half a mile on the jpputhcrn. When Start Light bnvMi N.W. } W., ahe will be to the southward of tho (ffciJ-WS. Thtf Eddyitone Liffhthotue, with its fixed light, bears E. ^ S. 38^ miles tram the Lirnrd, and W.N.W. f W. 18 miles from Bolt Head, near Salcombe. It has been painted with a broad rad stripe, which will distinguish it at once from the Bishop Rock Lighthouse. From the Eddystone lighthouse, at the distance of 3| miles, N.W. by N. by N , there is a bed of sunken rocks, called the Hand Ikept, which lie nearly in the fnir- way of ships bound bound ftt>m the westward for Plymouth Sound. On the sh/ aU;^* part is a pomted rook (so far as can be judged by the lead), on the shoalust vn .: which are fh>m 22 to 24 feet at low water spnng tides. The shoal has, comuioiAU, ^ ground swell on it } and, with a S.W. gale and ebb tide, the sea here rj^ is very high, so that a ship may depress (or tenet) 5 or 6 feet. _ The best mark for clearing this dangerous shoal is ftimished by the Breakwater lighthouse, in one with with Penlee Point, E. by N. ; it leads a lonv mile to the northward of them, and a mile to tiie S.E. of them when in one with Mount Batten in Plymouth SouAd; N.E. by E. f £. PLYXOUXA SOIJHD Ib the most capacious and secure harbour in South Britain, The magnificent Breakwater is fi,000 feet long, at its West end is the lighthouse, showing a red light seawud, and bright northward of S.W. i W. over the anchorage within. Below this red light is a leading bright light, visible only when between the buoys marking tiie western on' vonoe. A large bell is tolled in fogs or sno^v storms. -■•.-^^' ■;:•-<■' -.'?' . ;. ■J ...» ■, /f : _ /f ^ - On the East end of the breakwater is a beacon, a granite obelisk, rarmountcd by a staff and ball. 'This ball is so constructed that ten persons might find shelter witnin it should they be oast away on the bi'eakwater. Besides these standing marks the Trinity Corporation have placed an obelisk, or beacon, on tiie Hoe, at the head of the Sound, which has since been heightened, and painted red and white in horizontal stripes. ,^, ,^ . The entrance of Plymouth Sound is distinguished on the eastern side by two re- -narkable laif^ rocks, which lie upon the extoemity of reefs that stretch fitim shore. Jf these rocks the southernmost is called the Mewatone ; the northernmost, the Shagatone. The first lies nearly S.W. by S., half a mile from Wembury Point, or the S.E. point of the Sound, and has, just without it, a sr . s' f v n*?. Mailed the Littk MetDstone, from which a shoal stret* > "s to the W.S.W. ncr'ly ''^ ;--1jI ■:'' lengths. The bearing and distance from the Great Metoatone i '.■ . 2 lud are N.W. by W. I W. 4| miles, and to Penlee Point N.W. by W. ^ mues. The entrance of Ply- mouth Soimd lies between the two latter, and it may, fh)m a distance, be readily known ; tJie land over Plynouth being high double land. On a near approach, Rame c^n; -^h will appear open to the northward of Rame Head, and the square tower of Pen will be seen standing upon the highest part of the land over Penlee Point, wluc'i, '^■ndi: t>ife more certain mark. • K..'ru-' > JSi^EV. V..1' Kenntf Socks, appears like a black rock, lying N. by W. nearly 1 mil ' I'rvf tb: Mewstones, and at about one-eighth of a mile from shore. At the distance oi t crible's lengtu vV.N.W. | W. from the islet stands the Shagatone. Tho TiNKE^Ji, and the Knap and Panther, arc well known as the princinal shoals nly when the nouth and the riied sholl and eim Mritlun 20 the westward pvm the Start I mile on the thward of the miles from the It has been om the Biahop .byN.byN, | ly in the fnir- j^ )n the eh/ aU'^*. loaluet t<:(.it ,):' I, comuioii! v^, a ij 18 very high, le Breakwater nff mile to the Mount Batten South Britain, he lighthouse, the anchorage ^hen between fogs or snow mounted by a ihelter witoin an obelisk, or ightened, and ie by two rc« fa from shore, lemmost, tiie lury Point, or ed the LiUk engths. are N.W. by ranee of Vlj- be readily proach, Rame lare tower of Penlee Point, )y W. nearly lore. At the jstone. ncipal shoals OF THE NORTH ATLANTIC. 461 in the lower nart of the Sound, v }t these, the outer one is the Tikkeb. This shoal, wUch it a caole's Idngth broad, atrctuhca nearly one-quarter of a mile East and West, and its western extremity lies N.N.W. | W. more thtui 1} miles fttimthe Little Mew- atone. It has on it from 10 foot t" 3| fathoins of water. The shoalcst part of the wofltem end, on which, without tho depth of 14 feet, there is a white buoy, lies with Penlee Point (the S.W. point of the Sound) nn with a dark square spot in the valley to ^e northward of Rame Head, Soaring W. i. / N. f N., and tho flagstaff on Mount Wise and the spire of St. John's chapol in one N. | £. There is also a tohUe buoy on the eastern side of the Tinker, which marks tho Eattern Channel. With the Bolt Head open to tho southward of tho Mewstone, or hidden behind it, you will be well to liio southward of tho Knap and the Tinker. The Knap and Panther are extremities of one rocky lodge, upon which thero are 3t 3}. 9nC i futhoms of water. This ledge is more tiian one-third of a milo in length* trd ■ jct.-nds in the direction of N.E. by E. | £, and S.W. by W. | W. Each end ia li i*i -jp .','.ied by a bluck buoy. A reet extends S.S.E. } E. nearly a quarter of a milo from Penloe Point, and i'^rminates in a sunken rook of 12 foot of water, called the Draystone. A checquered I- J and white buoy has been placed on it. It lies in 5| fathoms, 2 cables' lengths from the point, with Tor House (whitewashed and conspicuous) on with high water mark of JEtedding Point, and the Breakwater beacon on with tho upper comer of the northernmost quarry at Bovisand. WESTERN CHANNEL.— This channel, lying to the westward of the Knap and Panther, has sufficient depth for the largest smps ; and is now the pnncipr, which lies with the garrison flagstufl'ou ninth the rock perch. Between this shoal and some rocks which he off St. Anthony's Head, is the usual entrance into the harbour. Without the entrance of the harbour is the Outer Anchorage, or what may be moro Sropcrly called Falmouth Outer Road, ttora St. Anthonv's Point toward the Muiinclc Locks, where there is good anchorage with the harbour s mouth open, equal in point of riding to Mevagizev Boy, superior to Cawsand Bay, and very little inferior to Torbay, with the wina fi-om S.W. round to the westward, and northward to the N.E. paint of the compass. The marks for the Old Wall, or Pinnacle Rock, which lies to the eastward of this anchorage, arc, a small white bowling-green house, at Flushing (on the North side (if the river, opposite Falmouth), bearing N. by W. J W., just over tho northernnioHt or inner part of Pendennis Land ; and Milor roint, nearly North, halfway between St. Anthony's Punt and the extremity of the low rocks running off it. St. Mawcn' Castle is, at the same time, hid by St. Anthony's Point. A vessel firom th'^ westward bound t« Falmouth by night should keep the Lizard lights in sight to tltu southward of tho Boast until St. Anthony light bears N.N.E., to clear the Manacles. In the daytime the Beast should bo kept open of Block Head ; and when St. An- thony lighthouse boors N.N.E.,keep it on tfiot bearing till Killigonnoon house is in one with Peiiarrow or Mylor Point, bearing N. i E. contcrly; which v,'ill lead in through tho eaatern ohannei, and through the narrows between the white buoy on Iiward of tlio by block and k (which ex- e above mark WOT comes in in point, 80 as centre of Tor The Break- lioms, leaving ;he west Bar- igh. There is jf the bcfore- l contl'nucs in thward of all 9 very closely ring anddis- in Enffland. the influx of It. Anthony's d called Pcn- [)ttstle, which >ny to that of 1 town of St. trance of tho town of Fal- p the S.E. by sk called Fat houra ebb to ntly indii'utcs gth, S.E. by n Hagstuffou Anthony's may bo more the Muniu'lc luul in point e inferior Ic I to the N.E. vard of this orth Hide of lerninost or )otwceii St. 8t. Mawes' tho Lizard krs N.N.E., ion St. An- houMC is in 'ill ivdu in ito buoy on m^ti'.i'^i OF THE NORTH ATLANTIC. Hmt 463 Falmouth bank and the Uatk buoy on St. Mawes Bank, into Cerrick Road, where a vessel may anchor in from 12 to 18 fathoms, or proceed on until Budoc Church comes over the rising ground of Trefusis Point, or the Summer House is in one with Fal- mouth Church bearing W. by S., which will lead through the Cross Road, till St. Keveme Church comes over Pendcnnis Point, bearing S.W. ; with which mark she may anchor in St. Just Pool in from 12 to 15 fathoms, over a muddy bottom. In hazy weather, a vessel should give St. Anthoc^ Point a berth x>f 2 or 3 cables' lengths, and run in with the land of St. Mawes about a point on the starboard bow, and then steer for Penarrow Point. She should not approach the land of St. Mawes nearer than .2 cables' lengths, nor St. Mawes Bank within 9 or 8 fathoms. With the wind at East she wriU sail in free on the starboard tack, and at W.N.W. on the port tack. Western Channel. — ^Vessels not drawing more than 18 feet may safely pass between the Black Hock and Pendennis Point, and at half tide there is water for ships of the Une. By taking the centre of the channel, and steering a N. by E. course, it will lead up between the black and white buoys ir. the narrows ; or vAen the Black Rook beacon and lighthouses are in one, steer for St. Mawes Castle until Killagannoon House comes on with Penarrow Point, bearing N. \ E., and proceed as before. In this channel a vessel will sail in free on the port tack, with the vrind a N.W. by W. ; and although the high land of Pendennis may cause it to baffle, there is no danger to be apprehended when she has shot within the Black Rock. THE LIZABJ). — The Lizard is a bold land, which lies 5 miles W. by S. from Blackhead, and W. \ N. 12J leagues from tho Eddystone. It may be seen 7 or 8 leagues off, in from 40 and 42 fathoms of water, and may be readily known by the two lighthouses which are erected upon it. These lighthouses, with Jixed lights, about 222 feet above the level of high water, when in a line, bear W. l N. and E. J S.| 223 feet trom each other, and may be seen 6 or 7 leagues off. The towers are white. This headland is one of the most noted among English navigators, as it is from hence that ships take their departure from the English Channel ; and it is also the Eroperest plnce for a landffiU, when homeward bound. The position of the high light- ouse, according to the grand trigonometrical survey, is lat. 49° 67' 34", and long. 6" 12 4' W. MOTJNT'S BAY. — This spacious bay lies to the N.E. of the Lizard, and is par- ticularly distingmshod by the high island called St. MichaeVt Mount. St. Michael's Mount, which gives name to Mount's Bay, is a remarkable and picturesque isle, near the village of Marazion, 14 miles N.N.W. (by compass) from the Lizard Point, and 2 miles E.S.E. from Penzance pier. On its summit is a church and residence. At the bottom on the N.E. side is a small harbour. At low water there is a diy passage to the isle from the main land. Upon its eastern side, at about 4 miles from the Lizard, and at a small distance from shore, lies a remarkable craggcd rock, called the Gull Rock ; ships bound up Channel, if opposed by an easterly or S.E. wind, may run in on the North side of this rock, and nere And shelter, near the shore, in 8 fathoms of water ; but great care must be exercised in order to guard against a sudden shift of wind. On the West aide of the Bay there is tolerable riding in Guavas Lake, near Newlyn St. Paul bearing N.W. by W. ^ W. The latter has « feet over it, ond lies about one quarter of a mflc North from the former, with St. Paul's Church on with a long hedge, appealing ond on, al>out halfway between Penlea Point and Newlyn, and l>ear- ing W. by N. Between these rocks, there is a depth of 10 fathoms. In the winter scuhou the anehorngo in Guavas Lake ought not to be renorted to but as a preliminary to entering tho i)ier of Penzance, or that of Mount St. Michael. In approaching the shore from the olfing between the Lizard and Land's End, the depths 464 DESCRIPTIONS OF THE COASTS AND ISLANDS of water vill be gradually found to diminish, and the bottom is mostly of coarse sand, interspersed with Wnole and broken shells. Near the shore, between Mount's Bay and the Land's End, there are several danger- ous rocks. The first is the Rundleatone, a small rock, about 4 yards long and 2 broad, the base of which is dry at low water, and covered before half flood. It has a fine conical stone beacon on it. From this beacon the lighthouse on the Longships, here- after noticed, bears N. 19° W. distant nearly 4 mfles ; the flagstaff on Point Tol- Pedan-Penwith N. 7° E. three-quarters of a mile ; with the point distant a quarter of a mile. The ground without the Rundlestone is clear, but there are rocks and foul ground to the eastward and northward of it ; therefore a passage within it cannot be recommended to strangers. The Wolf Rock and Beacon : the rock, which is barely covered at high water in neap tides, bears from the Land's End, or the westernmost point of land, S.W. | W. 6 miles distant. Between the Rundlestone and this rock, there are ftora. 20 to 36 fathoms of water. It is steep on ail sides, and has within a cable's length of it from 30 to 40 fiithoms all round. The sea makes such a roaring on it, that the noise may, in moderate weather, be heard a great way off. longshipi.— About 3 miles N.N.W. J W. from Tol-Pedan-Penwith, or the S.E. pomt of the Land's End, and 1 mile W.N.W. from the westernmost point, lie the high rocks called the Long»hip» ; which extend in a North and South d'j'c on, about naif a mile. Upon the largest of these rocks stands the lighthouse, with fixed light, \«'hich was erected in the year 1795, and the lantern of which is lighted with Argand lumps and reflectors, so as to be clearly seen from Point Tol-Pedan-Penwith to Cape Com\rall. From the light. Point Tol-Pedan-Penwith bears S.S.E. \ distant 34 miles ; Cape Cornwall N.E. f E. 4 miles ; the Brissons N.E. \ N. 3| miles ; the Rundlestone S.S.E. southerly, nearly 4 miles ; the Wolf Rock S.W. southerly, 7f miles ; and the light- house of St. Agnes, Scilly, West, northerly, 25 miles. Shipt aailinff down the Engliah Channel, and bound rotmd the Land's End, cannot make the light till it bears N.N.W. \ W., or open of Point Tol-Pendan-Penwith (on account of the high land which covers it, from this point to Cape Cornwall^ ; but having seen it, and brought it to bear N. 19" W., will have the Rundlestone m the direction of the light ; and by bringfing the light to bear N. by W., or North, may steer safely for the lisht, clear of the Rundlestone and all danger, and may give the !ii.J% nnu easterly to S.S.E. winds j but the danger arising from westerly winds makes it littlo ly of coarse reral danger- and 2 broad, [t has a fine g^ipa, here- i Point Tol- : a quarter of icks and foul it cannot be igh water in •om 20 to 36 h. of it from weather, be dth, or the ost point, lie ith o'li-cc on, it, \»rhich •was ml lumps and ipe Cornwall, miles ; Cape estone S.S.E. md the light- End, cannot Penwith (on rnwall^; but stone m the p North, may may give the )8 onfy about refill to keep jy keeping 1 they have 8 will hold kward of the order to go ir islets ; but lecn in clear two round vach, on the End may he « situation. In the boy ward of the Fi.i^.i^. mm ikes it little ■4k^& OF -THE NORTH ATLANTIC. a:i(i 46d fref|uented. The South side of the bay is formed W Peddenmeandue Point, from which the ground is foul and rocky to half a mile N. W. The islands of Scilly consist of a great many smally isles, islets, and rocks above water, surrounded by innumerable rocks and ledges, some of which appear at half tide, others at low water, and the greater part not at cU. Many have 6, 5, 4 feet on them at low water spdng tides. The channeb or passages into the harbours are called Sounds. They are dangerous, but well known to the fishermen of the islands, who act as pilots. With an easterly wind, a number of pilot boats are on the look- out for vessels frtun the westward. :^■i'.■-■■y!' ST. AONES, which is also called the LioHTfiousS Island, lies nearly 1| miles to the S.W. of St. Mary's. It is the southernmost of the Scilly Islands, exclusive of a group of large rocks, which cannot properly be called islands. To the westward of thete is that called the Oilstone, where Sir Cloudesley Shovel, in the Association man- of-war, was lost in 1707. Shipwrecks have been too frequent about these islands. The Lighthouse is the principal ornament an ^ great support of the island. It standi on the most elevated ground, built with stone from the foundation to the lantern. It was built in 1680, and is 53 feet high. It is a commodious structure ; and being plastered white, is a usefril daymark to all ships coming from the southward. The hght is revolved every minute, and in clear weather it may be seen at more than 6 leagues off; the lantern being 138 feet above high water mark. According to the Grand Trigonometrical Survey the latitude of this Eghthouse is 49° 53' 30" ; and its longitude from Greenwich, 6° 20' 40 ' W.est. The S.W. DANGERS of Scillt are those called the Bishop and Clerks, com- posed of a high rock, called the Bishop, on which is a lighthouse, and of several ledges to the South and East. The Bishop's Ridge, having a race upon it, lies nearly a mile to the South of the Bishop, with the lighthouse on St. Agnes bearing East, 4 miles distant. THE BISHOP LIGHTHOUSE is one of the most important ntruotures in the English lighthouse system. It is a noble gpranite tower. It ohows a brilliant fixed light at 110 feet above high water. Being placed to the S.W. of all the danglers around the Scilly Isles, it renders the approach to them much easier than heretofore ; inasmuch as it was almost the only dangerous quarter frt)m which to make them, and now the interior anchorages can be much more readily reached with confidence by the aid of it and the St. Agnes Lighthouse. The ^at importance of the Scilly Islands arises from their advantageous situation, as lookmg equally into St. George's Channel, which divides Great Britain from Ire- land, and into the English Channel, which separates England from France. From this reason many chips, when the wind is favourable, in coming in frx)m the S.W., endeavour to moke the islands, in order to steer their course with greater certainty. It is also sometimes convenient for vchkcIs to take shelter among them rather than beat about at sea in bad weather, and a strong gale at East Mrill be frequently the means of bringing in numerous vessels. Upon firing a gun, and making a waft, a boat immediately puts off from the nearest island with pilots. In coming from the southward you will descry Scilly, in clear weather, at the distance of (J and 7 leaeues, and have 60 fathoms, with grey sand, broken shells ; you may also see the land from the southward, in 65 fathoms of water, stony ground with some shells ; but at 7 leagues distance to the northward, you will have sand and oaze mixed together. From the lighthouse of St. Agnes, the Lizard bears E.S.E., distant 14 1 leagues { the Longships Lighthouse £. % S,, distant 8 leagues ; and the Wolf Rock E.S.E. | E. 6} leagues. The Seven Stones are a dangerous reef of rocks, which appear above water, some at half tide, and some at low water. They are a mile in extent from N.N.W. to S.S.E. j the Bi-a always breaks upon them j and, except in very bad weather, they may be seen from a considerable distance. The North side of this reef lies about 5 leagues 3 N 406 DESCRIPTIONS OF THE COASTS AND ISLANDS W.N.W., weaterljr, from the Longships Lightiiouse, with Shipman Head, the Nortii end of Bryer, bearing West, 10 miles distant, in a line -with the N.W. point of St. Helen's, and opea to the southward of Bound Isle ; and Newfoundland Point, the S.W. part of St. Mary's, S.W. by W. J W. 9J miles off, and just open of the S.W. part of Menawethan. The Light-vessel showing Ueo bright fixed lights, is moored in 40 fathoms of water, about If miles E. \ S. from the Pollard Mock ot the Seven Stones, and about the same distance £. by N., northerly, from the South Stone. Vessels navigating between the Scilly Islands and the Land's End should endeavour to bring the light-vessel to bear to the westward of South, when coming from the northward ; and those approaching the light-vessel from the southward, should keep her to the westward of North. LinlDT ISLAND.— At about 10 miles N. | W. from Hartland Point, N.lS. by E. ^ E. 74 miles from Cape Cornwall, W.N.W. i W. 16^ miles from Morte Point, and off the entrance of the Bristol Channel, lies the South end of the Isle of Lundy. This island is high, and extends N.N.E. and S.S.W. nearly 2| miles, while its mean bveadth is only half a mile. The position assigned to tiie South end, by Captain Denham, is 61"^ 10' 7' N., 4° 40' 16' W. The Roads of Lundt present important advantages to vessels outward bound from Bristol, in case of adverse wincb : and they are equally useful to homeward bound vessels, in want of pilots or refreshments, and to such as may be imezpectedly driven into the mouth of tne Channel by westerly gales. The General Ancltorage is to the northward of Rat Isle. This islet appears like a low ^reen hummock, jutting up from a gradual descent of the castle bluff, from which it is insulated a few yards only at hieh water. It lies at four-fifths of a mile East from the Shutter or S. W. Point, off which is*a detached Slack Pock. Moderate sized vessels may bring up in 10 fathoms, sand and mud, at half a mile off shore, with the North end of the island just closing with the rock called the Oannet Stone, and bearing N.E. ; the farmhouse then topping overland, W. by S., and Rat Isle bearing S.S. W., half a mile : thus leaving a scope to clear the either end of Limdy, on a shift of wind. Large ships are, however, recommended to bring up a little farther out (in order to clear the island with the wind setting on), with the lighthouse in sight, bearing West, and dropping the anchor at a moment when the top of the lighthouse dips out of sight. This rule is eqiwUy observable by day and by night. Here you will have a depth of 10 fathoms, and mud, at aboat a mile offshore. Should the top of Lundy happen to be obacured by flying scud, the taking up a spot for anchorage must depend on the lead and the relative bearings of Rat Isle, S.W. by W., and the North end of Lundy N. by W. To vessels outward bound, if overtaken by westerly gales, the roadstead affords a place of refuge. Here may be found, for ships of every class, suiHcient water, with good holding ground, convenient to the shore ; and here may be obtained live stocki provisions, vegetables, and water. Vessels under a doubtiHil reckoning may advance after once gaining a sight of this island, the approach to which may be known by the soundings and quality of bottom. At lA milee without it, on the S.W., West, and N.W. ; there are 40 fathoms with aandy bottom, shoaling thence to 26 fnthoms, rocky bottom, at Smiles South from the island i to 29 fathoms, gravel, at 6 miles to the S.W. t to 22 fathoms, flne sand, at 5 miles to the West ; to 27 fathoms, with fine gravel, at the North; and to 24 fathoms, with broken shells, at 5 miles to the East. Thirty-five fathoms, sandy bottom, is the deepest water between Lundy and Milford, and there is less within, or to the eastward of tnat line ; so that the navigator mar be assured of being without, or to the c««t- ward of that line ; so that the navigator may be assured of being without, or to the westward of the Bristol Channel, so lonv as he doea not shoalen nis water below 40 fiithoma, allowing for a rise and fall in tiae of 4 fathoms. Vessels Bocrd up the Bristol Channrl., of to the rklt#«« va AJ«UaMjT Aould {MM to tho Bonthward of the isUndi all oircumstanoei being most favourtl .bit, 'i^\iii sifOF THE NORTH ATLANnaUiiHiyiiiii 467 as shown in the g:eQeral direotions hereafter. Thick weather generally acoonnMnies prevalent S.W. winds, and increases the danger of a too near approach to the Welsh shores. EABTIAND POINT.— The land of HartW Point is Terv high, and directly from it, to the distance of aboat one-third of a mile, is a ridge of rocks, on which the sea breaks very heavily. The mark to clear these rocks on the West is, Sharp^s iVb««, S.W. i S., or kept well open. This Sharp's Nose is a high bluff land, nearly 3 leagues to the southward. The mark to clear the rocks on ue North is, Qallenay or Gallantry Bower, to the West of CloveUy, with a tuft of trees on it, kept open, or beuing S.E. Hartland Point may be readily known firom the connecting olififs trending nearly at. right angles to each other. It appears of a dark brown colour, and its summit resembles the ruins of a building, elevated 350 feet above the sea, toward which it slopes abruptly to the perpendicular clifis. Hartland Point forms the S.W. point of the Bristol Channel, which may also be considered to terminate at Milford Haven, ou the opposite coast. THE BRISTOL CHANNEL. — It has baen justly remarked that there is not one safe roadstead between the Land's End of Cornwall and the Flat-Holm, in the Bristol Channel, with the wind to the westward of South ; and not very good with a wind to the southward of S.£. by £. j for, although you may have tiie wind off ^ore, you will find a great swell ; and, \S. the wind shifts, the sea is instantly up, before there is time for her to weigh. On the coast of Wales there are several good roadsteads, but none are easy of access to a stranger, Milford Haven excepted. Vesteh bound to the Bristol Channel, and approaching from the south-westward, with a vrind fi^)m that direction, should endeavour, says Captain Denham, to make their landfall on the coast of Cornwall in the parallel of 50° 30', as well from the height of Trevose Head as from the regularity of the soundings. At 23 leagues trtte West of the Head, after running for some time in 60 fathoms, over mud, the bottom at once changes to coarse hard ground, and thence shoalens so gradually that, at nine leagues off there are still 34 fathoms. The land may, indeed, be safely made on any parallel between Trevose Head and Hartland Point, but it should not be approached at night nearer than in 30 fiithoms of water, unless it can be so plainly distinguished that a course can be at once shaped with certainly for Lundy Island. Should' the wind hang between West and N.W., it will be advisable to gain the latitude of 50" xO', so as to run direct for Lundy Island. This course leads across that great mud basin which seems to be an elongation of the Irish Channel, and which is there about 15 leagues broad. The soundings at first slowly deepen from 50 to 60 fathoms, and then decrease to 46, where the bottom suddenly changes to sand, at 12 or 13 leagues ttova. the island. From the edge of the sand the bank continues to slope up Hlowly and reeularly, there beinff from 32 to 34 fathoms at six and seven miles from the island j out, unless concealed by fog, the island or the light will have been discovered long before reaching ihat depm. Captain Martin White, R.N., says : — " Vessels bound into the Severn from the Atlantic, should endeavour to preserve the parallel of Trevose Head, not only with a view of counteracting the north-westerly ana northerly excess of tide (currents) which prevails in the Irish Channel, but because the soundings on approaching it aecreasQ gradually, and because this promontory projects a considerable distance into the sea beyond the general direction of the Corniuh coast. The land, also, being very high and steep, renders it the most eligible spot for a landfall between the Land's End and Hartland Point, from whence a vessel may with confidence shape a course for the Bristol Channel. The erection of the lighthouse on Trevose Head also renders it beyond any doubt the best point to make. On this parallel, and in the longitude of 10 53', are 140 fhthoms, firm dark-brown sand : this appears to be the edge of the bank of soundings in that latitude. From hence the transition to shoal water is very sadden, as 13 miles furUier eastward are only 94 fathoms. This depth is in the longitude of 10° 32' W., and as you proceed easterly the depths more gradually de- crease. In longitude 0" 44' are 71 i'uthomH, very fine dark grey sand, of the con- 468 DESCRIPTIONS OF THE COASTS AND ISLANDS sistenoY of beaten pepper : seven leagaes further eastward are 71 and 69 fathoms also ; the latter sounding are, however, oasy. Seven miles to the north-westward of the ktter position, and six miles eastwajtl of the former, are 59, 65, and 53 fathoms ; this b the western extreme of the Nymph Bank, which is nearly midway between the English and Irish coasts. Fowc and eleven leagues southward of tne former position lie the S.W. extremes of this btmk in 60 and 64 fathoms. Proceeding easterly nom your former position, you will retain nearly the same depths until you advance as far as the longitude of 8° 26', where you will find as little as 53 and even 45 fathoms, coarse, tenacious, light ground, consistmg chiefly of mutilated shells and minute stony particles, and you will almost immediately afterwards drop into 66 and 69 fathoms, oazy ground. The former is the shoalest part of the Nymph, and is distant from Scillv 29 leagues, in the direction of N.W. J N., 43 leagues from IVevose Head, N.W. hy W. I W., and 22 leagues, S. by E., from Cape Clear ; to the eastward of the latter depth, the soundings shoalen pretty gradually towai'ds the western coast of Cornwall, nine leagues from which are 34 fathoms. Should a vessel be forced into the entrance of the Bristol Channel, so that she cannot lay out again, the most prudent course is to proceed as directly as possible, for Milf()rd Haven ; but, should the weather be thick, and circumstances prevent this, she may Eroceed to Lundy Island, there anchor, or take apilot for the harbour of Ufracombe. >y obstinately endeavouring to beat out of the Cnannel, many lives and much pro- perty have been sacrificed ; it being next to impossible for a vessel to get to windward here, when opposed by the swell and indraught. A vessel from the Longships, if bound into Bristol Channel, with the wind from the N.E. should stretch as far to the North as she can, and to the westward of the Rocks (the Man and his Man) off St. Agnes' Head, and then work up in the slack. With an easterly wind you may find a good stopping place, for a tide, on the western side of Trevose Head, sheltered by the Cow and Calf. In the great bight northward of this, between Tintagel Head and Hartland Point, the tide b quite slack, and a vessel may gar'n ground against the ebb. With the wind to the South or S.E., and a commanding breeze, you may run be- tween the Longships and the main, or haul close round the Longships within a cable's length, and keep tne English shore on board : for so soon as you bnng the Longships and Brissons nearly in a line you will gain the true Channel tide. Spring tides, as already noticed, set very rapidly in the Bristol Channel. When the wind is to the S.S.E. in the Channel, the stream westward of Hartland Point is mostly found setting S.S.W. Pilots for Bristol may be engaged at Lundy or Ufracombe. Vessels bound to Bristol, or any port well up Channel, are recommended, in general, to keep near the English shore, though without going into any of the bays, after passing between Lundy Island and Hartland Point. XILFOBJ) HAVEN is generally considered as the most capacious, the most commodious, and the most secure harbour in the British Islands. It has no sort of danger in its entrance, which may not be avoided without a pilot ; and ships may, with perfect safety, sail either in or out (by taking the tide), either by night or day. Those which come in, without anchor or cable, may run ashore, on soft oaze, and lie safely. Now that the South Wales Railway is completed to Milford Haven (285 statute miles from London), the capabilities of this fine harbour for stcam-vcssei transit are beginning to be developed. St. Ann's Head is a bold promontory, advancing from a background of nearly table land, with a large black rock at its extremity, always appearing above water. Its lighthouses on the western side arc whitewashed. This point lies N.E. i N. 331 leagues from Cape Cornwall; N. | W. 47 miles from Hartland Point; andN. | W. 34^ miles from tne North end of Lundy Island. The entrance is deep, and more than IJ ir.iles wide. To enter the haven with a fair wind by night, at any time before half ebb, give St. Ann's Head a berth of one-quarter of a mile, in a depth of 12 or 11 fathoms, then steering so as to bring the lower light (which shows exclusively in the haven) to bear OF THE NORTH ATLANTIC, t I'.i-is ..'".i-sJ*.? 469 1 69 fathoms i-westward of I d3 fathoms ; iway between if the former iding easterly you advance m 45 fathoms, minute stony I 69 fathoms, distant from 1 Head, N.W. 1 of the latter ) of Cornwall, at she cannot e, for Milf(lrd this, she may >f Ufracombe. d much pro- to windwud rind from the of the Rocks 3k. With an estern side of Lward of this, a vessel may t may run be- Ithin a cable's he Longships mel. When and Point is nd to Bristol, ■ the English lundy Island us, the most laa no sort of ships may, light or day. oaze, and lie Haven (285 steam-vessel nd of nearly above water. .E. I N. 33) andN. iW. d more than bb, give St. ivcn) to bear W. i S., and afterward running E. i N. about If miles, the depths will decrease to 8 and 7 fathoms, and you will be in me middle of the harbour. In the Entrance to the Haven the first danger met with was only discovered in the latter part of 1851 — a very singular circumstance, considering tlmt the whole of the coast was supposed to have been carefully and completely surveyed. It is a small patch, called the Lewis Hock, 1| cables' lengths frt)m N.W. to S.E., and having only 18 feet less water at its N.W. end, and 25 feet at its S.E. extremity. It lies exactly on the line of the two lighthouses at St. Ann's in one, or N. by W. i W., and nearly a mile from them. A black buoy, marked " Mid-Channel Hock," nas been placed near it. It lies in 6 fathoms, at about a cable's length W. by N. fh)m it, with the flagstaff at St. Ann's just open West of the Low Lighthouse, N. by W. j W. ; the fort on the Stack Rock just touching the South part of Thorn Inland, E. | N.; Mr. Davis's house, its apparent length on Dale Point, N. | E. Besides this rock, there is another, discovered at the same period, called the Sheep Jtock. It is a small patch of 41 fathoms, lying half a mile due West of Sheep Ishmd. Both of these patches have deep water around them. Another rock, called the Chapel Rock, lies at the distance of half a mile W.N.W. from Rat Island, and has 14 feet of water over it at low spring ebbs ; and a rocky shoal, called the Harbour or Thorn Rock, now marked by a buoy, having 20 feet over it, lies at the distance of nearly half a mile N.W. by W. from Thorn or West Angle Point, and vnthout the islet on that point called Thorn Island. The channel between these two last shoals and the western shore is nearly a mile in breadth. The course in is N. by E. until you open Dale Road, in the N.W. comer of the haven. Here you may come-to, in 2 or 3 fathoms, so soon as Dale Town comes open. But be cautious of not mistaking a bay on the West side for Dale Road, as it is dan- gerous. In this road you may lie landlocked from all but easterly winds, in 2 fathoms of water, with Sheep Isle on with Dale or Cswtle Point. Large ships should lie further out, at the distance of about 1| cables' lengths N.N.E. ^ E. from Dale Point, where there will be foimd 4 fathoms of water. The best channel, and that commonly used, is to the southward of the Stack. Upon the south side, hereabout, is excellent ground, in from 8 to 13 fathoms, where ships may be landlocked from all winds. At the distance of a mile S.S.E. from the Stack lies Angle or Nangle Bay, in which the ground is clear and good. In this place vessels, having lost their cables and an- chors, may run aground on soft oaze : but should keep nearly in mid-channel between the outer points. The most convenient and cotnmon anchorage for large ships is in Hubbebston or Man-of-War Road, at the distance of 4 miles to the E.S.E. of Dale Point. In sail- ing for it, keep in mid-channel until the tovm of Milford bears N.E. by E., when you may anchor in 10 or 12 fathoms. On either side, stand no nearer to the shore than to the distance of 1 1 cables in length. SMALLS.— The Smalls consist of a cluster of low bare rocks, upon the largest and westernmost of which is a new lighthouse, a white tower, 141 feet nigh from base to vane. The light is brilliant and fixed, 125 feet above high water. The rocks are about one-fifth of a mile in extent, but very narrow, in a N.E. by N. and S.W. by S. ducction, and are never entirely uncoverea. There are several detached rocks at the distance, more or less, of one-quarter of a mile from the main group, which must be carefully avoided. Passage between the Smalls and Hats. — When the Hats are seen to break, this is a good and safe channel, although not more than 1| miles vnde. If the South Bishop, distinguished by its lighthouse, can be made out, this islet, just open of St. Davias Head, will clear all. To clear the Smalls, Hats, and Barrels, to the northward, care must be taken to gfive the Smalls a sufficient berth to clear the N.E. rock, the transit of which is passed when the lighthouse bears S.W. by f W. When the land is distinguishabie, an excellent clearing mark is, the N.6. end of Qrassholm on with the S.W. end of 470 DESCRIPTIONS OF THE COASTS AND ISLANDS i: ^1 i^ Skomer i Has will lead at the distance of alH>ut three^uarten of a mile f^m the Hata, and IJ ndles firom the Barrels. ^u. ^mJ^m m:h}im isi> To eUar the Smatta, Hata, and BarrtU, to the aouthwtrd, the Smalls ought not to be approached within 1 mile, on coming fix>m the westward, until the lighthouse is brought to hear North, in order to avoid the S.W. Bock, as the soundings ate extremely irregular, varying, at that distance, t>om 40 to 25 fathoms, generally gravel and broken shells, so tliat no dependence can be placed on the lead. At night, the Smalls light must not be brought to the westward of N.W. i N., nor St. Ann's light to the southward of S.E. by £. i E. ; these bearings wiU give the Barrels a berth of about 1| miles. Observe well that itie moment St. Ann's light is unmasked to the qouthwud of Skokham, a vessel is nearly in the line of direction of the shoals. . VxwELS BOUND TO MlLFOBD Haven, &c., J^om the S.W. of Ireland, are recom- mended to make Grassholm, frequently tiie first land seen, by day, or the Smalla lighthouse by night. Should there be a long flood to run, it will be the best, parti- cmarly with the wind to the southward, to pass well South of the ^ht, or to try and make St. Ann's Ught upon a bearing of E.S.E. | E., passing outside Skokham : but on an ebb tide, opposite precautions may be taken ; and having passed to the north- ward of the Smalls, keep St. Ann's light open between the isles Skomer and Skok- ham, bearing about S.E. by S., which will lead between them. 8T. GEOBOE'S CHANNEL. — To give extended descriptions of this important navigation would swell this work far beyond its proper limits. On pp. 382 — 387 are given some general instructions for saiUng up and down this channel, which must suffice. One especial point requires every attention, and that is the set of the tides. In pages 264, 265, are given the general features of these currents, which, being neglected, have led to several deplorable accidents on the banks off the S.E. coast of Irdand. It is therefore most earnestly recommended to the sailor to pay every atten- tion to this important subject. Some changes have been made in the lights on the East coast of Ireland which should also be carefully attended to. On the Eastern side of the Channel the indraught on to Cardigan Bay is in some degree deprived of its dan^r by the establishment of the light-vessel described in the list, which will warn a ship from passing too far to the eastward, and thus getting embayed on this iron-bound shore and ita dangerous shoals. The Reflige Harbour at Holyhead has now assumed an important position in the navigation, and will afford shelter from bad weather for a large portion of the compass. SOUTH COAST OF IBELAND. — ^As ships bound across the Atlantic may be driven to seek shelter oh the Irish coast, a few brief notices of the principal places on the Southern coast follow. Complete descriptions of the whole coasts of Irehuid are given in our Directories accompanying the Cnarts. CABNSOKE POINT lies N. by E. 4 E. 41| leagues from Cape Cornwall, and fiwm the Smalls lighthouse, N. by W. | W. 37 miles. To the E.S.E. 4 E., at the distance of 6| miles from Carnsore Point, is the remark- able rock called the Tuskar. Its bearing and distance from the Longships liehthouxe, off the Land's End of England, are N. by E. f £. 42^ leagues ; and from the SmalU lighthouse, N. 4° W. 11 leagues. The TUSKAR LIGHTHOUSE shows a revolving liffht every two minutes, twice bright and once red alternately. The ringing of two bells denotes the Ecimity of the rock in fogg^ weather. The rock is about 16 feet above the sea at i water, and the elevation of the lighthouse 101 feet above tbe base. The bright ts may be seen at 6, and the red light at 4 leagues off. At half a mile due West of the lighthouse are some rooky heads, and at three- fourths of a mile S.W. of the light is the South Hock, of 9 fatnoms ; to avoid these, be carefU to keep sufficiently without the rock on that side. And nearly midway between the Tuskar and main is the long narrow bank called the Bailies' Prong: the ripple on the South end of which bears from the Tuskar W. | N., and from Cam- sore Pomt E.S.E., about 2i miles. The bank extends nearly 3 miles N. by E. f £. OF THE NORTH ATLANTIC. ■iV.Ji mile from the To Cornwall, and Its ahoalest imter is from 5| to 7 fothoma, with 8 and 10 fitthoms naar meh end. clear it on the East side, keep nearer to the Tuskar than to the main. The SAT TEES LIOHTVESSEL, showinr two lights, lies in 82 ..dioms. with the Great Saltee hearing N.E. ^ E. ahout 4| miles distant ; the Hook li^tiioaae of Waterford Harhour, N.W. ^ W. llf miles ; and the Ttukar lighthouse, nearly East, 20| miles. The Coningbeg Rock lies 1| miles S.W. \ W. from Coning^more, and 2| miles S.W. i S. from the S.W. point of the Great Saltee Rock, and inside the light- bouse. It shows at half-ebb. WATEBfFOBD HABB0I7B, the Estuart of the Rivers Suir and Barrow. From the Longships lighthouse, off the Land's End of England, the Hook Point of Waterford bews M. by | W. true, and N. ^ E. by compass, nearly48 teagues *. from the North end of Lnndy Island, off the Bristol Clmnnel, N.W. bv W . tme, and N.W. by N. by compass, distant 33| leagues : frtmi St. Anne's lignts, Milfi»d Havea, W.N.W. i W. true, and N.W. by compass, distant 23| leagues ; and from the Smalla Ughthouse, W.N.W. northerly, true, and N.W. \ N. by compass, distant 17^ leagues. c»i Upon Hook Head, or the Hook Point, is a white tower, rebuilt in 1791, 110 feei high, which exhibits a brilliant Jixed light, at 152 feet above the level of high water, and is seen from all points between E.N.E. seaward to N.N.E., 17 miles off. The entrance of the harbour, between Hook Point on the eastern, and Red Head on the western side, is 2f miles wide. Three miles within these points, on the western side, is the remarkable raomontory called Credan Head, the extoemity of which bears N. by E. 3| miles from Hook Point. The pier at the little harbour of Dnnmore, on the W. side of the entrance, affords a secure anchorage with westerly gales, as well as from the prodigious sea which rolls along the southern coast, but it is not calculated for an asylum harbour, from its space being very confined, and its want of depth, there being only one spot within the pierhead with more than 14 feet, and 9 to 12 being the ordinary depth at low water. In coming in from sea for Waterford Harbour, you will descry the remarkable inland mountain called the Slievnaman, which should be brought to bear N.E. ^ N., as it will, with that bearing, lead in sight of Hook tower ; whence you may round Hook Point, which should not be approached nearer than to the distwce of 2 cables' lengths, as the tide sets round it very irregularly. With the entrance open, the course to Duncannon fort will be N.E. by E., which will lead past Credan Head, at the distance of 1| cables' lengths. In the night, the two lights will be seen on the fort of Duncannon, elevated one above the other, to direct vessels to that point. These kept open of Credan Head, and bearing N.E. | N., lead directly up the harbour. You pass the fort at the distance of aw>ut 1 cable's length, keeping the lead g^ing, and then steer N. ^ E. for Ballyhack church. When the Perch beacon, near Passage, comes on with the to u of that name, you may steer upward in mid-ciiannel to the anchorage above the town, in 5 and 6 fathoms of water. Ballyoottin Bay, on the North of the Ballycottin Isles, has been recommended as a place of safe resort in westerly winds. The only disadvantage of this anchorage is, that the wind setting in from S.E. to E. (which wind, however, very seldom blows) renders it necessary for vesseb to put to sea as quickly as possible. The prevailing winds on this coast are westerly throughout the year ; therefore this ancnorage is safe and convenient with the wind from S.W. to N.N.E. by the North. Vessels taking shelter from a westerly gale, should anchor with the Government houses bearing S.S.W. to S.W., and the outer island S.E. to S.S.E., in about 3 fathoms, low water. The bottom is smooth and even, of fine sand and clay, perfectly clean, and the holding^ground good. The outside island, on which is the l!<*hthouse, is high, with a bold, rocky ooasi, steep-to, witii deep water, and no dangers ; so that a vessel, in taking tha bay frmn 472 DESCRIPTIONS OF THE COASTS AND ISLANDS the westward, may round the island close to, and find herself suddenly jn smooth water. COBK HABBOim. — The entrance of this excellent harbour lies at the distance of 46 leagues N. by W. i W. [N.W. \ N.'] from the Lonmhips lighthouse oflF the Land's End of England; ana from St. Anne's Point, Milford Haven, nearly 39 leagues N.W. by W. J W. [ PT. i iV.] In coming up for this place from the south- wanl, bring Knockmeldown Hill, N.E. by IS., and kcp it thus until you see the Old Head of Kinsale, which is a remarkable bluff headland, with a ligh^ house upon it. From this head the entrance of Cork Harbour bears E. ^ N. 6 leagues.- ,ji .-r.^'Ij:-; M' «r When off the harbour, Roche's tower, with its lighthouse, is remarkable from ih standing on the point upon the eastern side. Without this point are two rocks called the Cow and Calf, otherwise the Stags, which will be avoided by attending to the following directions. Without the entrance, which is three-(^uarters of a mile broad, the ground is clean ; and, with a northerly wind, ships may he here, in from 7 to 10 fathoms, awaiting the daylight, or a flood tide. With a leading wind, line-of-battle ships may enter at any time of the day, if proper attention be paid to the marks for the dengers. The Lighthouse on Roche's Point shows a fixed light. It appears, from sea- ward, of a clear red colour, but is brilliant toward the harbour. The tower is white, 26 feet in height, and the light, which appears at 92 feet above the level of high water, may be seen at 14 miles off, from all points seaward between S.E. by E. and N. by E. Jtoche's Point is bold : so also is Dog Nose, a high point half a Jeague further in, on the same side. Upon the latter there is a remarkable white wall, lying on the face of the cliff, to the southward of the foii:, and so conspicuous as to be seen (torn, a con- siderable distance. From the entrance of the harbour to the Narrows, in the upper part of it, and through them to the anchorage off Queenstown, the fairway is indicated by a double ' series of buoys, white on the western side, and blaok on the eastern. Beside these there are two buoys on the Harbour Sock, and two oa the Turbot Rocks. On entering the harbour of Cork, the channel eastward of the Harbour Rock and Turbot Rocks is generally preferred, and a vessel may, at any time, be worked in or out. On coming in, therefore, endeavour to pass between Roche's Poirt and the Har- bour Rock, or between the Harbour Rock and Turbot Rocks. The first route may be easily effected by keeping Cuskinny house ^already described) wholly shut in with the point at Dog ^ose; this mark also leads to the eastward of the Turbot Rocks. The depths in the channel are 5, 6, and 7 fathoms. ; Having arrived within or to the northward of the rocks, which will be when a round stone tower, on the heights near Ringaskiddy (westward of Spike Isle), ap- Sears four times its own breadth open to the northward of the lowest part of the ecling land under Fort Camden, thence steer for the middle of Spike Island, keep- ing as nearly midway as possible between Forts Carlisle and Camden, until two re- markable houses, inland, to the northward of Cuskinny house, and eastward of the old barracks, appear, the northern house between Cuskinny house and the southern house, three-fourths nearer to the latter than the foi-mer.* This mark will lead up between the shoals towards Queenstown, and very close along the eastern bend of the spit, near the white Lower Spit buoy, though in not less than 4 fathoms at half tide. Continue running upon the mark last given, until two white-washed marks in the upper and lower walls of the old fort or hospital appear in one. This mark will lead you round the buoy last mentioned ; and when Ballybrickan house comes nearly into * These houses are called Upper Harbour View and Lower Harbour View. Both are of a whitish colour, and roofed with blue slate. The upper one is also weather slated partly llnwn if o fjw)»it. OF THE NORTH ATLANTIC 473 contact with the S.W. angle of the btiildines on Haulbowline Island, you shoulcl haul suddenly to the westward, steering N'.W. by W. toward a large storehouse on the upper quay at Queenstown, for about 2 cables' lengths, and then W.N.W., parallel to the beach at Queenstown, until Roche's Ught-tower shuts in with the eastern end of Spike Island. The last mark is the best for anchoring, and where you will have itiovo. 4 to 9 fathoms of water. Large vessels, particularly at low water, should pass to the eastward of the white buoy on the Bar Kock, and after ro\mding it, at the distance of a quarter of a cable, may haul suddenly round to the westward as above. The Outer Route or anchorage of Cork Harbour, is between Fort Camden and the buoy of the spit. Yon proceed up to it with Queenstown church just shut in with the eastern angle of the new citadel on Spike Island, and may take a station at plea- sure in from 12 to 7 fathoms. Merchant vessels may ride off Queenstown, in smoother water and less tide ; they may also anchor farther up the harbour, off Passage, and ride anywhere between the first houses and Ronan's Point. Those tfforkinff into or out of Cork Harbour should be aware that the tide sets, in the first instance, into the bight formed between Dog Nose and Roche's Point, and thence obliquely across to Qross Haven, whence it is ag^in warped into a N.E. direction, which produces corresponding counter tides and oldies along both shores. The tide of ebb has a directly opposite tendency. XINSALE- — From Poor Head, which lies 4 miles eastward from Roche Point, the Old Head of Kinsale bears W. by S. 6 leagues. Two whitewashed towers are on the vape, and between them are the black ruins of Baron de Courcy's castle. The southern tower is round, the northern square ; the southern was formerly the lighthouse. LIGHTHOUSE.— A new lighthouse f60 feet high with two red belts) is erected on the rocky point at the southern end of the Old Head of Kinsale, distant half a mile S.S.W. \ W. from the old lighthouse tower, the light for which is discontinued. The light is a bright fixed Iwht, elevated 236 feet over the level of the high water, illumi- nating an arc from N.E. ^ N.. seaward, to W. by N., and in clear weather will be visible at the distance of 21 miles. On the arc limited by a limited by a line across the entrance of Courtmacsherry Bay to the Une of the Korse Rock it is coloured red ; ftirther within the bay, north- ward of that line, it is c>f of the natural colour. Thus vessels, unless going to Court- macsherry Harbour, shoild not psss into the bay within the limits of the red -colour of the light. In order to fall in with the Old Head, when ai>proaching from the offing, bring and keep Knockmeldown Hill N.E. by E. This hill lies inland to the northward of Youghal. The harbour of Kinsale, though narrow at the entrance and all the way up to the town, is veiy safe, and capable of receiving vessels of any size. The entrance is formed by Hangman and Prehaun Points on the eastern, and Money and Strookaun Points on the western side ; and it lies about 5 miles N.E. from the pitch of the Old Head. After rounding the Breem Rock, lying \mder the eastern side of the Head, with 7 fathoms close to it, steer for the harbour's mouth, by keeping the whole of Charles Fort, an extensive castellated building at a mile within the harbour's mouth, open to the westward of Hangman Point, and minding not to bring that fort within its own apparent breadth of Money Point, on the port side } and having reached well withm the former poiDt,keep as near mid-channel as possible, and anchor until you obtain a pilot. The anchorage of Queenstown is the one generally resorted to, and it affords good shelter, even vnthin the wind directly in. This place is a little within or to the N.W. of Charles Fort, and about 1 J cables from shore. There is, however, water enough for the largest ships close up to the town of Kinsale, the channel to which lies close along the eastern shore ; but it is very narrow and circuit- ous, and requires the assistance of a pilot. The wind between S.S.W. and E.S.E. is a free wind in, and from W.N.W. to N.E. a fair one out. There is a bcr of coarse sand u little to the southward of Charles Fort, having 12 m \y \> DESCRIPTIONS OP THE COASTS AND ISLANDS to 18 fleet OT«r it at low water of spring tides. T^'hen the body of Charles Fort bean E.S.E. I E. yuu will be within or to the northward of it, and drop thenoe almost im- mediately into deep water. -' ^ "- ' * - The dangers of going into Kinsale Harbour are, Farmer Ledge on the port, and the Buhnan Rock on the stai board side. The Farmer lies cloHe to the western shore, and is uncovered at throc-quai-ters ebb. The Bulman lies above 2 cables' lengths to the southward of Hangman Point, and has only 3 feet over it at low water, ana some- times dries at very low tides. The marks for it are, the northern angle of a triangular field on with the ptnkcd top of Crow Hond, and tho Small Sovereign Island on with Froward Point. Bv keeping Charles Fort wholly open to the westward of Hanfj- roan Point, you will pass conNiderably to the westward of the Bulman ; and by nut bringing thut fort within its own apparent breadth of Money Point, yuu will avoid the Farmer. During the night a light is kept on Charles Fort as a guide to vessels entering the harbour. It is bright and fixed, at 98 feet above the sea, open to the harbour, on a N.E. by N. bearing, andmny be seen, in clear weather, 6 miles off. When running for the harbour in a very dark night, some caution is, however, necessary, as thu lieht and that on Old Head are the only guidance, and it will be prudent to keep on offing until daylight, or till a pilot can be obtained. Cape Clear, the southernmost promontory of Ireland, upon an island of the same name, lies at the distance of 64J leagues N.W. by W. | W., true, and N.N.W. \ W. by oomposs, from the Longships lighthouse, off the Land's End of England ; and at tne distance of about 5^ miles eastward from the S.W. part of this island lies the enti'ance to the harbour of Baltimore. A lighthouse was erected on the S.E. side of Clear Island, to the eastwai'd of the cape, and was first lighted on the 1st of May, 1818, but it was superseded by tho more important light on the Fastnet Kock, to the S.W. THE FASTNET BOCK, a small, steep, and conspicuous rock, lies nearly b\ miles W. k S* ivQxa. Cape Clear. Between is a depth of n-om 12 to 35 fatlioms, the least deptJi being near to the rock. Near Cape Clear there will be found from 24 to 27 and 39 lUthonia. The LIGHTHOUSE on the summit of the Fastnet superseded that on Cape Clear on January 1, 1854. It is 02 feet high, and has a broad red horizontal belt at mid- height. The light is elevated 148 feet, is revolving, visible once in every 2 minutes to the distance of 18 miles : but is not entirely obscured within short distances. Between Cape Clear and tho Kiver Shannon, the land, on advancing to the North, increases in height, and is very irregular and broken ; but the southern part of the coast is seldom wholly free from fog and haze during the summer months, and is gene- rally annoyed by powerful gales and a turbulent sea dming the winter season. Long Island Sound, which lies within Long Island, to the S.W. of Skull Ha^ hour, is well sheltered, of easy access, and capable of receiving large ships, which may enter at either end of the island, and anchor anywhere, the ground being good. The only thing to be avoided is a spit of sand, which extends northward from snore, at about half a mile within the East end of the island, and more than hallway over the ofaannel. In the anchorages the depth of water varies from 2 to 7 fathoms, and the ground is everywhere a soft cohesive mud. The chief passages are, one from the S.W. between Ooat Isle and Turf Isle, or the Black Back to the westward of it, called Man-of- War Sound : one between Goat Isle and Long Island, and one between Long Island and Three Castle Island on the East. Either of these passages may be safely taken with- out a pilot, through water sufficient for a line-of-battle ship. "When entering by the S.W. passage, you have merely to keep in mid-channel all the way through, as well as from thenoe to the anchorage. Crookhaven is a small but important harbour, lying Similes N.W. 1 N. from Cape Clear. It is only 2 miles In extent, from 'East to West, by one-third of a mile in breadth. Its entrance lies between a rock called the Alderman, on the r lea Fort bean ice almoHt im* the port, and fvestem shore, W lenethH to ter, and ttonic- if a triangular Hland on with ard of Ilan^- 1 ; and by nut uu will avoid » entering the harbour, on a ^hen running iHsary, as thii aut to keep on d of the same N.N.W. t W. gland; and at iuland Ilea the istward of the rscdcd by the learly 5^ miles lumH, the least ^ 24 to 27 and on Cape Clear al belt at mid- y 2 minutes to ances. to the North, rn part of the IS, and is gene- scaHon. of Skull Ha^ ships, which being good. •d from snore, hallway over the ground is 8.W. between I Man-of- Wat ng Island and iy taken with- tering by the DUgh, as well V, k N. from ne-third of a man, on the OF THE NORTH ATLANTIC. 47tf South aide, and a peninsula called Rook latattd, on the North. Although narrow, th« harbour is well sheltorod and commodious for ve(m the latter. «• '•^''UtyiX COAST of FRAlf GE.— In the upper part of the English Channel, the coast of France is a part to be avoided by a passing ship. Upon it all the power of the tide and wave which traverse the Channel fix>m West to East seems to be expended. Its shores are the depository of all the matter washed and worn of from the shores to the westward, and the light drifting sand of which they are composed, choke up all its harbours, and bar access to any shelter when required for a snip in distress. All this is explained in our Channel Directory ; and in pages 251 — 253 ante, there are some remarks upon the Tidal Streams, whieh are very peculiar here, and require very much attention. Ambleteuse Road, between Boulogne and Cape Orisnez, affords some shelter from gales between N.N.E. and S.S E. round by the East; but the sea is verj' heary, especially when strong winds oppose the current, and moreover the tidal streams are at times very strong, so that a ship may become tide-rode in a very ugly position. Boulogne is difBcult to enter on account of t^e thwart current. The Bay of the Seine is very dangerous. It is open to all winds from N.W. to N.E., and the tides are very strong, so that ships embayed here with those winds are in great danger. There is some shelter inside the banks, which extend N. and 8. of Marcouf, but the tides are so strong that they alone will embarrass, and the formidable Race of Barfleur, which runs around the Cape Barfleur so turbulently, is much to be dreaded in N.E. gales. CHERBOTJROi with its majestic Digue, or breakwater, will afford shelter, and ample descriptions and directions are elsewhere given. The following are a few extracts: — Cherbourg Road is comprised in the space between the Pointe de Qucrquevillc and Pel6e Island, lying E.S.E. and W.S.W., 3f miles distant from each other. Its southern limits are the shores of the two an-eat bays, the Ste. Anne to the West, and that of Cherbourg to the East, divided by Pointe du Hornet. It is sheltered, on the North side, by an artificial breakwater. La Digue, built in 6 and 7 fathoms water, 4,100 yards long. There is a green light on its West head; a fixed and flashing light on tne contral Fort, and a r^ light on the West head. The principal anchorages for large vessels ore, the Great Road, and the western anchorage ; for smaller vessels, those called the Little Road, and the anchorage be- tween the Pel6e Island Bank and the eastern branch of the Digue. The Bay of St. Anne does not offer many good spots for anchoring ; the bottom is uneven, and the holding ground bad. And besides, vessels are in ?^eat danger if oaught here by gales between N.E. and N.W., which send a bad sea into it. The Great Road (Grande Rade) is the man-of-war anchorage, and is limited on the North and N.E. by the Pel^e Island Bank ; and extends to the West as far tun to the North of the church at Cherbourg. In the North part, the bottom ia, in gcnerftl, of schistose rock in a state of decomposition, and the'holding is good, and tlicre srf some spots of bore and cutting rocks. The current of the flood begins half an hour c*U .. . OF THE NORTH ATLANTIC. m after low water by the shore, and ends three-quarters of an hour after high water in the military port. Its g^reatest rate is 2 miles, and of the ebb 1| miles an hour. The Western Anchorage, lyine to the South, and near to the West end of the Digue, is a fine bottom of sand and broken shells ; four-fifths of a mile in extent, and with 6 and 7 fathoms water. It is bounded on the South by the rocky bottom which, running from the Great Road, extends to the S.W. of the West end of the Digue. The current of the flood begins then nearly an hour after low water by the shore, and finishes an hour after high water at the military port. The Little Road is to the South of the Great Road, in the part which is sheltered tiom. West winds, and the sea occasioned by them, by Fort du Homet and the mili- tary port. In this anchorage, which is of good holding ground, the pilots placed those vessels waiting for the tide to enter the commercial port, and also those seeking shelter from bad weather, before the Digue was so far advanced ; these latter ^ow prefer to anchor nearer to the Digue. Strong winds from S.W. and S.E. are ti-ou- blesome in this anchorage, as vessels are liable to drive and be carried on the rocky bottom of the Great Road, or even on to the Digue. The anchorage to the South of the eastern part of the Digue, which is used by vessels seeking shelter, lies between the Digue and the northern slope of the Pel^e Island Bank, and extends from the Central Fort, where it is a quarter of a mile wide, to nearly the West end of the Digue, at which part it is narrowed to 1^ cables in width. It is a sandy bottom, in some parts rather muddy, the depth varying frx)m 26 to 32 feet. Vessels are here sheltered from N.W. to N.E. round by the North. Western Entrance to Cherbourg Roads. Large men-of-war enter by the passes at each end of the Digue, the principal of which is uie West, lying between it and the Chavagnao Shoal. The two limits of this are marked by buoys. You will run precisely in mid-channel, by keeping the light-tower (with a red light) on the end of the eastern jetty of the rort du Commerce clear, but seen a very little distance West, that is, to tne right of the high battoiy of the Fort du Homet. There is no difficulty in entering with a leading wind, but large ships beating in must take care of the Chavagnac, then the rocky head in the opening of St. Anne's Bay, and, lastly. La T^narde. It is considered that it would be imprudent to attempt to beat in at night through the West Passage with large ships, unless there is moonlight. The flood tide sets here S.E. and E.S.E., 3 miles at its greatest strength, and be- gins Ih. 30' after low water by the shore, and ends Ih. 20 after high water at the military port. The ebb current nearly the same, running to N.W. ^ W. The Passage between the Fort of Querqueville and the Chavagnac Shoal is nearly aa wide as the former, but is not practicable for large vessels but between half tides of high water. As the bottom is uneven, and covered with rocks, it is dangerous to anchor in it. No vessel should attempt it while it is calm, as you risk being carried on to the rocks at the bottom of St. Anne's Bay. There is no advantage either in coming near the shore of this bay, with the wind from land, as it frequently comes in gusts, particularly with those from S.W. The Eastern Entrance is comprised between the East end of the Digue and the w-CNtcrn slope of the Pcl^e Island Flat; the most dangerous points of it are marked by buoys. The mark for this passage was a stone pyramid on the quay in front of the Hotel de Ville, now replaced by a largo wooden beacon on the rocks in front of it, on with the church tower of Octeville, bearing S.W. by W. The eastern passage is separated from the East part of the Great Road by the Pel^e Island Bank, the breadth or which on the above bearing is 4 cables'" lengths j the least depth on it being 22 feet, The flood current is first felt one hour after low water by the shore, and ends one hour after high watrr in the military port, and runs E_. by N. between the Digue and La Truite at the rate of 2j mlies ; but a iittio to thr North this velocity is increased to 3J miles, and runs to the E.N.E. To the N.W point of the Flat of Pclfo Island, and on the northern slope of this plateau, the current of flood runs N.E. ^ E. at a 47S DESCRIPTION OF THE COASTS AND ISLANDS mazimam rate of 4 miles an hour } and the eddies and over&Us, occasioned by the uneven bottom, form a violent and dangerous race. The ebb tide is more regular, and runs at a rather less rate. The eastern entrance, besides being[ very narrow, is inconvenient from the current! orossing it obliquely. This renders it dangerous for sailing vessels in light winds, and impracticable for them in calms. But when there is sumcient wind there is no diffioidty or danger. It is easy for vessels coming from the East ; but care must be taken to bear careAiUy round to the West of the N.W. point of the Pel6e Island Bhoals, and not to run. on the mark for enteriuv till you nave doubled it. As you cannot always see the beacon at the esplanade of the Hotel de Ville at a sufficient dis- tance, you ought then to appi'oach the Pelee Island Bank, keeping Octeville churub in one vrith that of Cherbourg. This will bring you in sight or it, or at least of the buoy Oil the N.W. point of the rocks. The great bay which is formed on the coast between Cape la Hague and the Br6hat Isles, in which are the Channel Islands, is most dangerous to tue stranger. Its furious tidal streams ; the countless rocks which cover and uncover to an enormou« extent in the groat range of tide, render it impossible in a few words to describe any of its navii^ation. Indeed, local and intimate knowledge alone can conduct a ship through any of its intricate passages. ALDEBNET, or AURIGNY.— The eastern end of Alderney bears W.N.W. 8i miles from Cape la Hague. Tliis island is about 3^ miles in length by a media} breadth of three-quarters of a mile. The coasts of Alderney are sut rounded with rooks, which render the navigation difficult and dangerous ; more particularly as the tides set strongly and in varioui directions. The chief port, that of Braye, on the N. side of the sea ; and on the western side of Port Longy is a signal post. The REFUGE HARBOUR, which is constructing on the North side of the island, is a formidable and very important undertaking of the British government, under the superintendence of Mr. James Walker, C.E. It will consist of two piers, which will enclose Braye Roads, and have an opening to the northward, ana will shelter a considerable area of every depth for shipping. It is not safe to remain at anchor here in the winter season, on account of the run or ground swell, which often comes in very unexpectedly, and without any apparent warning; nor can a vessel, if surprised there witn a northerly wind, easily beat out, both ebb and flood heaving hct in bodily. There is a rock in the middle of Braye Roads called the Hay-tide Rock, which it especially dangerous to all vessels coming into the roads, being on a direct lino in or out of the harbour. Part of the rock is only visible at low water, spring tides. THE CASKETS, and LIGHTHOUSES, which lie N.W. by W., (52 miles from Braye Roads, ore a cluster of great rocks, some above and others under the water. On the largest, and nearly the westernmost, of tlieso rooks stand throe lighthouses, triangularly placed, as shown on the chart, and furnislied with argaiid laniiM uiid reflectors, at 113 feet above high water. The lights reiolee, and alternately prcHcnt A bright light in eviry direction. The eclipses succeed each other every fifteiii seconds, l^ion a S.E. by E. bearing, tlu'se lights appear as two, which may bo seen 6 or 6 leagues off". The N.E. and S.li. lights are in one when bearing S.W. by W. Attached to the establishiuent is an alarm hell, w hich, sounded in fo^gy or snowy weather, is loud and distinct, not unlike a church bt.ll. The Jlanois or Ilatmrvaax, wliieli lie oft" the wcsternniost part of Guernsey, are an extensive group, the greater part ol' which is always above water. They extend ou^ ward to the distance of more than half a leu '-^ne, leaving no passage between. It in most prudent to give them a berth of about :) miles on tlie port hand. Their dan- gerous character will be much lessened when the lighthouse is completed on them. BAT OF BISCAT donoy to be avoidcii -sm pages 270 — 2j2, .'iBU, ^^e. -^MaSf «*SK«^ In former pjiges, when the best routes to the scnithward were en|i«[M.>n n *• II. • OF THE NORTH ATLANTIC, iiii 470 that a vmsel ma;^ get embayed without being able to weather its outer point*, only a few remarks on ItH more available roadHteada will be given here. In the liat« of lighthouses is given a description of these monitors which well mark its coasts, and by means of which a ship may avail herself of many anchorages, which it would occupy too much space to describe hero. TJSHANT (Oueaaant) is a Htcep craggy island, about 4 miles in length from East to West, and 2 miles in breadth. On itN S.W. side is a harbour, that of LampotU, but of difficult access. The rest of the island is surrounded with rocks, a part of the North side excepted, where there is anchorage. Lighthouse. — On the N.E. part of Ushant is a light-tower, exhibiting an ex* teWentJixed light, elevated 265 feet above the level of the sea, which may be seen a,t 6 leagues off. The position of this lighthouse is latitude 48° 28' 31", longitude 5° 3' 32". It is proposed (1861) to erect another lightiiouse on the S. extremity of the island. Douamenez Bay. — This capacious bay, which lies to the southward of Brest Harbour, will accommodate a large fleet, it being more than 6 miles in extent each way. Its entrance is so wide, and its bottom altogether so clear and regular, that no leading mark is required ; pravided that a hunicient berth be given to several rocks which lie on the North side, as generally represented on the charts. The courae and distance ^om the 8. W. end of Uahant to the bay are, S.S.E. \ E. 10 leagues : there is nothing in the way that can take a ship up ; only observing to avoid the Passe Vieille, off the Bee de Ch6vre, on the North side ot the entrance. This rock lies about one-third over from the point, and vppcars just above water at tiyo-thirds ebb. It is steep-to, having trom 17 to 12 fathoms close to it. The marks for it are, Kidizicnt Mill, to the westward of St. Lawrence's Church, on with the middle of a reef of dry rocks which lie off the Point or Beo de Chevre, bearing E.N.E. {| E. ; a village, on with the N.W. cliff of the same point, bearing N.E. by E. ; and the western Tas de I'ois (or haystack), in one with the Toulinguet llock off the Lighthouse Point. Its bearing and distance from the Bee do Chevre are, W. 2 S. 1 1 miles. A clump of trees, with a small chapel in the midst, stands on the North side to the eastward of Point Ch6vre, having a windmill to the westward, and two to the east* ward. With the windmill next to the eastward of these trees, just oiicn of the Chevre Point, you will have passed the Basse Vieille, and may steer for what part of the bay you please, all being fair and clear, excepting what may be seen above water, and wiiat may be near the shore. The best ground, however, is considered to be that toward the North side, being clear sand, with a depth of from 9 to 15 fathoms. The general depths over the bay arc from 18 to 12 fathoms; and all, as before observed, is clean ground. The best leading mark into the bay is the high mount of Locrenan (in the S.E.) just shut in to the southward of the Point Leide, a rock on the West of the little Bay of Douarnenez. This will lead, in a fair course, clear to tho southward of the Basse Vieille. In the middle of the bay, about two-thirds of a mile North of tho town, is Tristan Isle, on which a lighthoiiKC has been erected. It is 32 feet hiffh, showing a bright fixed light, ut an elevation of 114 feet above the sea, and visible 10 miles. It was lighted in 1857. This lighthouse, in one with Plouard steeple, is the mark for a shoal of 7 feet, which lies half a mile Norih of Tristan. ChanSBM, or Font da Boin, or Saints' Bridge, requires but little description, as it is clearly exhibited on the Chart. This extensive chain of foul ground trends 9 miles to N.W. \ W. from the principal island, and is studded all ov^ with rocks, either above or under the water. The Lioiithouhe, with its excellent flashing light, erected on the northern part of the island, in a line with the lighthouse on the Bee du IluK, denotes the general direction of the ClmuNsf^e, or Bridge. The fixed li^ht on tho Bee is a 259 feet above the sea, and, as well as the flashing light of the Bern, may bt seen Wuvu 6 icagves otF. The lie de Sein lighthouse is 141 feet high ) the light is fixed and \«ricd by fUslMe, 480 DESCRIPTIONS OF THE COASTS AND ISLANDS elevated 148 feet above the sea level; the flashes appear every four minutes, preceded and followed by short eclipses. The lights on the He de Sein and the Bee du Raz lie f^. 86° 50' E., and N. 86° 56' W., true, or] S.E. by E. | E., and N.W. by W. | W., by compass, from each other, b\ miles ap^. This bearing, which is likewise the general direction of the whole chain of rocks called the Chaussee de Sein, passes about 4 cables' lengths to the south- ward of the N.W. extremi^ of the chain, which is 9 miles from the Sein light, and 14^ miles from that on the Bee du Raz. v .v . v ; ' In approaching these rocks from the tcestward, the first light seen will be the flash- ing light on the He de Sein ; and first light seen will be the flashing light on the mariner whether he is to the northward or southward of the line direction of the two lights. In clear weather, the Bee du Raz light will not not be seen till the vessel is within 4 or 5 miles of the western extremity of the chain of rocks. BELLE ILE. — This island, being high, and seen from a great distance, may afibrd pood shelter in a westerly gale. Ite N.W. end is in lat 47° 23', and its South point in lat 47° 16'. The N.W. end of the Island is surrounded with rocks. In a line between the East end of this island and the Isle de Qroix, lies the rocky bank called the Birvideaux, already described. ■ If a ship, with the wind at N.W. or W.N.W., keeps between the latitudes above mentioned, when running for the island, on approaching it, she may steer along the South side at the distance of 2 miles, to Point de VEchdle, or Point des Canons, the S.E. extremity. From this point, haul up for Point de Kerdonis, the easternmost point, which is situate 2^ miles from the former. Under this point may be found anchorage, in from 15 to 8 fathoms, sheltered from N.W. and westerly winds. Should the wind here veer to S.W,, a ship may run to the northward of the point, and anchor on the N.E. side of the island. On the South side of the island there are many rocks near shore, both above and under water. A tower on the plateau near the Cove of Ooulfar, on the S.W. part of the isle, is distinguished by a brilliant revolving light of the first order, eclipsed once in a minute. The Isle of Hjedic, which lies about 7^ miles East from the East end of Belle He, has many racks, with foul ground about them. The Axed light, near the eastern point of the isle, mOjV be seen about 9 irlles off". The Cardinals extend to the S.E. from Hoodie, and the extremity bears E.S.E. f E. 12 miles from the S.E. end of Belle He. Should a ship be oriven to the eastward of Belle He, she must give the Cai-dinals a good berth, and may then haul up to the northward for anchorage. In the Bay of Quiberon, after you have brought the Cardinals to bear S.S.W., S. by W., or south, there is good anchoring, with clear soft clay, and very even soundings, in from 10 to 12 fathoms. With these bearings, you will be shut within some fuul ground, lying ofi' the Cardinals, in an extent of 3 miles in length, with the Cardinals from W. by S. to S.W. by compass. The northern point of rocks which surround BASttXTE BO ADS lie within the Isles of Re and Ol^ron. Olgron has a lighthouse, called the Tour de Chaasiron. The this end of Oleron, called the Antioche Rocks, extend 2 miles to the East of the light house ; but within them there is anchorage. The Tour de Chussii-on exhibits ajixei light of the first order, elevated 164 feet above the sea, which may be distinguished at the distance of 6 leagues. On sailing into the Roads, it is safest to keep over to tho Isle of R£, until near the S.E. end of it ; only taking care to avoid the Lavardin, marked by a tower. Then steer for the West part of the Isle of Aix, a low fortified island witn some hounes on it, which lies about half-way between Olferon and the main land. The roads extend ^»aU I *« *Vi. ACiCilVfllia C'itlOU 11/ 1UV sboaly to 12 and 13 in the middle of the road; and from 6 to 9 fathoms at about \\ OP THE NORTH ATLANTIC. ^ ;h above and mileH to the North and N.W. of the Isle of Aix. There are 6 fttthoms at halif a league West from the island, and good ground. The soundings in mid-channol, between the Isles of Re and 016ron, are gene- rally from 12 to 15 fathoms, shoaling towards each side. This channel is nearly 2 leagues in breadth. The French Man-of-war Road is on the South side of the Isle ofAiX. ;-''.^'-;'^'- '■•;■'' ' y. The Roche Bonne has been described as one of the most dangerous shoals on the western coast of France, particularly to vessels bound to Rooherort and to coasters. It is a gfreat flat of rock situate between the parallels of 46° 10' and 45° 15', at 12 leagues westward from the lighthouse on Baleine Point. M. Beautems Beauprg, who determined its position in 1824, describes the S.E. rock, on which there are only 18 feet at low water, in lat. 46° 11' 26", and long. 2° 25' 0'. The plateau, or flat, according to the new charts, extends N.W. | "W. to lat. 46° 15', with a breadth 2 or 3 miles. Not only on this flat is the swell of the sea to be apprehended, but a'l. on several heads of rock, on which there may not be more than 10 feet at low water. ,,^ A LioHT-VESSEL is likely to be stationed in the neighbourhood of this shoal. The rocky bottom, situate to the N.N.W. of the Roche Bonne, is known to the fishers under the name of Banche Verte, and is not dangerous. Westward of the rocks, in all their extent, the bottom is of mud. THE OIBONDE. — The entrance of this river, with the banks and rocks that impede its navigation, are so clearly exhibited on the general Chart of the Bay, and particular Chart of the Harbour, as to render a minute description unnecessary. But ' care is requisite at all times, as the banks and channels shift very much. The lights are described in the list. The tour DE CORDOUAN, or Lighthouse, standing nearly in the midway of the mouth of the river, is the most elegant structure of the kind in Europe, and its figure is represented on the Chart. This tower was completed in 1666 ; its original height was 169 French feet ; but in 1727, the upper part being calcined, an iron lantern was erected, which increased its height to 175 feet ; and its elevation, from recent improvements, is now given as 63 metres, or more than 206 feet. Its light is revolving, and visible to the distance of 9 leagues. The eclipses succeed each other once in a minute ; but every great flash of light is immediately preceded by a flash less brilliant. In ordinary weather the eclipses does not appear total within the distance of 3 leagues. By the recent Bjirveys of the mouth of the Gironde, it has been found that all the former charts of it were grossly erroneous ; and that, instead of Jive channels, as formerly represented, there are now only two which can be used witli safety. These are the Passe du Nord, or Passage by the North shore ; and the Passe de Orave, or Southern Passage. PASSE DU NORD.— The mark for the entrance by day is the Church of St. Palais and that of St. Pierre de Royan in one, bearing S.E. ^ S. These churches lie, as above stated, on the North t^de of the river, and about 8 and 10^ miles respectively above Point de la Coubre : this direction will lead across the bar, and about one-third of a mile off Point de la Coubre, when off" the latter point, and when the semaphore comes between the two beacons on the point, as given on the Chart. Here you will have fairly entered, and should change the course to S.E. J S., which may be continued for 8| miles, until the Church of fet. Palais bears North, obout half a league distant. From the lost spot a S.S.E. course, 6| miles, will bring you up to Mecher Road, where there is good ground of sand and mud, and from 8 to 10 fathoms at low water. Should circumstances require it, you may run up and take shelter under the Point de Grave, which aflbrds a safe retreat durinir westerly aud S.W. winds. The mark is, Royan stecnle ond mills N.E. \ N. At thfs pkce, between Verdon and the bank called the TaVle Fer, coasting vessels ure commonly sheltered in bad weather. 4S4 DESCRIPTlOxV OF THE COASTS, ETC. By Nioht, the entrance tu the Oiroude by the Passe du Nord is facilitated by the light on the Point de la Coubre, and by a light on the tower of Terre Negre. This is ajixed lenticular light, of the fourth order, elevated 1 18 feet, and visible 10 miles. The object of this light is to offer to navigators the means of avoiding the dangers of the dangers of the Barre k I'Anglaise. It is not visible South of a line passing through the tower itself and that of St. Palais, bearing one from the other, or S.E. by E. To make use of tlus light, the following directions are necessary : — Having arrived South of the Point de la Couore, and the small iixcd light on that point having been brought to bear N.N.E. bv compass, the route must be changed ; and then steer towards the Cordouan light, until the moment the light on Terre Nogre is first pr- oeived : then steer towards it, keeping as near as possible in the line of itH direction, which will be S.E. ^ S., until the Cordouan light bears S.S.W. ; after which, change the route for the third time, and bear S.E. \ o. It is very essential to remark, that the light of Terre Negre, not being visible to the West of the Point de la Coubre, on the direction for entering the Passe du Nord, will not be of any service until that point is doubled. PASSE DE GRAVE. — This passage into the Gironde is 4 leagues to the south- ward of the Passe du Nord, and is 2^ leagues in length. The mark for the entrance is the beacon St. Nicolas on with the semaphore of the same, bearing E. | S., and which from the entrance may be considered about 6 miles. This track is to be con- tinued until the Tour du Chav and St. Pierre de Koyan, on the North shore, come in a line, bearing E. by N. f N. nearly ; then steer on this course as near as possible, which will take over the tail of a small bank called Le Ruffiat, having 9 feet in one part, which- lies W.N. W. 2 miles from the lighthouse on the Point de Grave; therefore bear a little to starboard before reaching this point. This last mark kent on will lead into the main stream of the river, and at the distance of nearly a muc from the Point de Grave. You hence haul roiud the point to the eastward, according to cii'cumstances' In going through the Channel de Grave, be cautious of advancing too near the shoit^, as the tide of flood sets strongly upon it ; and never, if avoidaole, attempt to anchor in it. No large vessel should attempt to leave the river b) this channel, unless with a rising tide and favourable wind. Each of the channels b marked by buoys. TIDES. — At the entrance of the Passe de Grave, with the Cordouan Tower bear- ing N.E., the tides set as follow : — First of the flood. North ; one-third flood, N.E,j half end two-thirds flood, E.N.E. — First ebb, S.E. ; one-third ebb. South ; half and two-thirds ebb. West. In the channel within, with Oordouun bearing N.N.W., the flood set«, generally, E.N.E., and the ebb, W.S.W. Hctween the great Bank of Cordouan and the Point de Grave the flood sets, generally, S.E. { the ebb from West to W.S.\V. The tides, both ebb and flood, set through the difl'orent channels with rapidity; and great caution is therefore requisite on making the river. Should the landmarks be obscured by thick weather, or if night comes on, it will be prudent to anchor in the first convenient spot. BAYOITNE. — The mouth of the Adour, or Harbour of Bayonne, lies between two ■andy hummocks. The bar frequently changes > the sea without is very rough ; there is no entrance but at high water, and then a pilot is required. On the full and change, the time of high water is at 4''. Spring tides rise 12 feet } neaps, only 9 or 8 feet. ToiiNO, in his description of this harbour, says, that to enable a vessel drawing more than 14 feet to pass the bar, a concurrence of favourable circumstances must exist ; these are, a smooth sea, a fair wind, a spring tide, and no current from the COAST OF SPAIN. 483 I that of St. unless with a BIABITS, or BIAIftSlTZ.— At 3| miles S.W. from the mouth of the Adour arc the little port and village of Biakits, or Biarkitz, a fashionable watering place. The village is nearly a mile from the sea. At 2| miles S.W. from the mouth of the Adour is Cape St. Martin, now dis- tinguished by the lighthouse, which displays an excellent revolving light, the flashes of which succeed each other every half minute, and may be seen nearly 7 leagues off. The light is not entirely obscured within the distance of 3 leagues. COAST OF SPAIN.— Off the North coast of Spain, which is hish, bold, and rocky, the depth of water, in general, is from 150 to 200 fathoms, foul ground and coral ; but, in many places, there is no ground at that depth, even near the shore. The princinal harbours on this coast are those of Bilbao and Santander ; yet both of these are devious and shoal. BILBAO. - Its entrance, which is 3 miles wide, is formed bv the points, named Lu/uero and Galea. On Galea is a lighthouse, showing a brignl fixed light. The greater part of its coast if ^ofty, steep, and rocky ; but the bottom of the bay, on the eastern side, is low and sav: ly. On Cape Machichaco, 10 miles to the eautward, is a lighthouse showing a fine fixed light, varied by a flash every 4 minutes. The mouth of the River Bilbao is impeded by a shifting bar, having less than one fathom over it, at low water. Here are two piers or kays, within which is the town of PoRTUOALETE, and off which is the best anchorage in the harbour. Spring tides rise about 13 feet. In winter, a heavy sea sets into the bay, which, at times, renders it impossible for the pilots to go off. If coming in, when the tide does not serve for taking the bar, with an unfavourable wind, you may come-to in the I '.y, midway between the outer points, Luzucro and Galea; bring the latter in a line with Cape Villano, in 16 fathoms, with sandy bottom. There is here sufficient room, in case a heavy on-shore wind should bring homo the anchor or part the cable, to let go a second anchor, before the ship can get ashore. In summer, you may lie nearer to the land, in from 10 to 12 fathoms, all the bottom being of sand. On making the bay from the westward. Point Galea, on the eastern side, may be readily known by its white colour. On it stands a lighthouse, with a fixed light. Should you pass Santona, the bay may be thence distinguished by three sharp- pointed mountains ; of these the northernmost is that of Luzuero, the middle one and highest, the hill of Serantes, on the West of the bay. The southern ouo appears like sui island. On steering for the first, you will, of course, make Point Luzuero. SANTANDER. — Of this harbour a particular plan is given on the New Chart of the Bay of Biscay. Cape Mayor, on the western side of its entrance, lies in latitude 43' 30' 10", longitude 3 45' 6". This cape is of moderate elevation, but steep, and dis- tinguished by its lighthouse. Cape Menor, or Little Cape, hall a mile more to the S.h., has a Gattery on it. This is lower than Cape Mayor, and terminates in a low flat point, with a small reef of rock below it. On the "same side, at the distance of 1 3-10th8 miles to the south-eastward of Capo Mcnor, is Point Puerto. The land between forms the sandy Bay of Sardinero, in which vessels anchor, when the wind and tide do not serve for going into the harbour. The best anchorage here is with the Capes Menor and Mayor in one ; and^ at 3 cables' length from the former, ^ou will find from 10 to 12 fathoms, bottom of sand; but more to the southward, it is all of rock or stone. The extensive sands on the South side of the harbour frequently shift, and ^ groat portion of them is dry, at low water. On the North side, from Poiut Puerto east- ward, the coast is rocky, and defended by several batteries. The town has a smaL pier. With the wind blowing fresh from the S.W. or N.W. quarters, it is impossible to take the hnrhnur nf Santander ; but vessels may, with noou tide, occasionally bring up in the Road of the Promontory, which is clean aud roomy, and there wait for a 484 DESCRIPTION OF THE COASTS, ETC. wind. With an ebb tide, it will be better to oome to in the outer bay, off the beach of Sardinero, as already described. An islet, named Monro, which is high and steep, lies in the entrance, at half a mile N.E. from Puerto Point; on it a bright light is established ; close to its eastern side is a larger rock, and there is a shoal at a cable's length to the N.W. of it ; otherwiue there is deep water around it, and the channels on each side are clear and good. Although Santander has been considered as the best harbour on the North coast of Spain, eastward of Cape Ortegal, there is little doubt that it is now filling up, and that the channel and even the anchorage now used may, in a few years, become impracticable. On Capfi Penas is a revolving light, visible every two minutes 5 on Cape Bmto (long. 6° 29') is a bright fixed hght with a red flash every two minutes ; on the Orria de Tapia, near Bibadeo, is another fixed and flashing liglit ; and on Cape Estaca is a revolving light. These lights will indicate the chief points of the coast. CAFE OBTEOAL, Cape Prior, with the other headlands in the vicinity, are high and steep. The ground without generally rocky and foul. At the foot of Cape Ortegal are nine or ten sharp-pointed rocks above water, with 15 or 16 fathoms close to them ; and there is a rocky shoal at half a mile N. by E. \_N. by W.'] from the cape. A watch-tower on the highest land, at 1| miles from the cape to the south- wai'd, b a good mark for distinguishing it from seaward. Hence to Cedeira the land is steep and rugged, but to the northward of Cape Prior it falls into sandy bays. At different distances from shore are many scattered rocks, on which the sea breeds in a swell. Both the stream of tide and current of the sea set in toward the land of this coast ; so that the utmost attention is requisite, in order to avoid being embayed with light winds. With a good steady breeze, large ships may, however, pass safely within 2 miles of Cape Ortegal. FEEB.OL- — From Cape Prior to the Harbour of Ferrol the land is highly moun- tainous, with lar^e rocks above water along-shore. The bay, forming the entrance of Ferrol Harbour, is only a mile wide ; and uie channel from it into the harbour but 2 cables' length in its narrowest part. There is, nevertheless, sufficient depth in mid- channel for large ships at all times of the tide, viz., 8 to 10 and 12 fathoms. When within, you keep over to the North side, where you may haul up, and anchor in from 4 to 6 fathoms, sheltered from all winds. COBUNAi &c. — The North part of the Peninsula of Coruiia is distinguished by the remarkable lighthouse called the Tower of Hercules, constructed with three sides, and exhibiting a hxcd light with flash every 3 minutes. On the coast, without the elevation on which the lighthouse stands, there is a bank of rocks extending N.W. to a considerable distance ; but, from the meridian of the lighthouse a ship may ranL^e along the coast into the harbour, to the S.E. and South, and find anchorage with the town bearing S.W. in 14 and 15 fathoms. A fixed light is also shown from St. Antonio Castle. OENEBAL REMABXS on coming in with the Coast about Ferrol and CoRUNA ; from the Spanish of Tofino. — " During the night, ships should never advance too near the land ; for not only does, at times, powerful current set in for the land from the N.W., but the streams of flood and ebb often draw vessels out of their computed situation, especially in winter, or in thick foggy weather, which is frequent here. In the daytime, the sandy beach at the bottom of the hills may often be seen, when the latter are obscui'ed in mist and haze. Ships from the westward, which cannot take the harbours in the day, should not advance to the eastward of the meridian of Cape St. Adrian, or about Cisargas Isle ^8° 44'), where they should stand off uud on according to the state of the wind ; tor lying-to may be dangerous. •• During south-westerly winds, the currents set with great strength between Cisurgas Isle and Cape Ortegal ; and vessels have often been carried tiius to leeward of the harbour of Ferrol, where there is no place of shelter or safety. With north- easterly winds a ship chould run within 2 ijiileK of Cape Priorj ana thence btecr for ■.-^.l COAST OF PORTUGAL. r^y:>^Trt- iM aff tbe beach Capo Frierino, in order, if the wind be not very Btrong, to gain the anchorage in the Bay of Carino ; or to stand away, if it be so, for Coruna. In the neighbourhood of Cisargas Isle and Cape Prior, as well as off the interme- diate points, it is necessary, in hazy weather, to sonnd frequently ; for the soundings will be a monition before the roai" ^, of the sea on the shore can be heard." It may be observed that since these remarks were wiitten, the principal points, as Capes Prior, Priorino, Cisargas Isles, Cape Finisterre, &c., have all been marked hj the fine lighthouses described in the tables in the earUer part of this work. From CAPE ST. ADRIAN, the high land continues to the Bay of Camaiinas, with rocl-3 above and under water. Cape Villano is of rock, not very high, but per- pendicidar toward the sea. Within it, at a short distance, is a sharp peak, of a red colour, which, at a distance, appears like a tower. At the distance of a cable and a half N.N.W. from the cape is the Sock of Bufardo, steep-to, and over which the sea breaks. CAPE TORIANA, which is 3 leagues to the S.W. by W. \_S. W. by SS from Cape Villano, makes a sharp and steep projection into the sea ; it is not very high. At a diistance it is not always distingui»hable from the high land at the back of it. At two cables' length West from the point of the cape is a small sunken rock, which breaks with a little swell. The Nave of Finisterrk, a high mountain so named, stands at the distance of d| miles to the S.S.W. [South'] from Cape Toriana. Its summit is flat ; and, at about one-thiid of its height from the sea there appeal's to be a short point with hummocks on it, and having at its base a smedl but high island. In the bay formed between Cape Toriana and the Nav§ of Finisterre, vessels may safely anchor during north- easterly and easterly winds, oft' a fresh-water rivulet, in from 6 to 8 fathoms, sandy bottom, but not in aeeper water, as there the bottom is rocky. Cure mast also be taken not to advance too near the North shore, as it also is foul. CAFE FINISTERRE is only half a league South of the Nave. It may be readily known from the sea ; because there is a bight between it and the Nave, with low beach, and the laud behind less elevated. As there are no other points like these on the neighbouring coast, they cannot easily be mistaken. There is a lighthouse on it, wUch uiows a bright revolving light a 1 1 minute intervals. PORTTTGAL.— The COAST of PORTUGAL is van^pted with roeky promi- nences falling away into low sandy bays. Its harbours universally require the aid of pilots. Such are Viana, Oporto, Aveiro, and even Lisbon. The latter has, however, a good channel with 6 fathoms over the bar at low water, yet it should it bo attempted by a stranger, lest the winds fall calm, and the strength of the curreu-. set him on the banks. Here the powerful operation of the tides has caused the destruc- tion of many ships. Off the city the ebb runs down at the rate of 7 knots, and the danger in entering is when a strong ebb is running down, opposed to a strong wind from the sea, which makes a complete break, sometimes all over the bar. Under these circumstances a vessel is almost immanageable, and the tide may sheer her about ; but iu the middle of the Great or South Channel, the tide sets directly through. To enter the river, during the ebb, would require a brisk gale and all sails set, in oi-der to make any way, or even to stem the current ; and it is to be observed, that within the river the wind comes very irregularly through the valleys on dach side, unless it proceeds from the West or S.W. It is, nowever, tolerably steady when iu the direction of the river. CAPE ST. VINCENT. — A light is shown from the convent, revolving every two mmutes, at 221 feet. " Soundings extend to a considerable distance from Cape St. Vincent. To the southward of the cape lishing-boats may frequently be seen at anchor, fishing about 8 miles off shore. " Off the capo, to the westward, the surf, by beating on the nrccijpitous and cavern- ous rooks, may sometimes be heard to a surprising distance." — A. L. 486 U, DESCRIPTION OF THE COASTS, ETC. LAQOS.* — According to the latest astronomical observations, Lagos is in lai 37° 8' 40' N., long. 8° 37^ 46" W., which differs a few seconds from the position gene- rally adopted { but, from a number of coincidences, I should prefer this in a final de- termination. This place, and Villa Nueva, in time of war with Spain, are of the utmost value and import, more particularly if there is a blockade of Cadiz, as shipg are dispatched there to water ; on which occasion it is necessary to observe the follow- ing instructions: — At half-flood the boats can get near enough to land the casks, and may be taken off as late as quarter-ebb. The tide ebbs and flows in Lagos River at two o'clock, full and change ; it rises about 13^ feet in the spring, and 9 in the neaps. The bar is just covered at low water. It has 14 feet on it at high water spi "ng tides, and 10 feet at the neaps. In fine weather, about 180 tons of water may be raited off in 24 hours. Refreshments, such as poultry, pigs, fruit, rabbits, pigeons, vegetables, &e., are to be procured reasonably. . VILLA NUEVA. — In Villa Nueva River, water maybe got in transports, at about 130 butts in 24 hours 5 which must be rafted 3 or 4 miles down the river with the ebb tide, as the water is too shoal for ships to go nearer the fountain where it is procured. There is a depth of 16 or 18 feet of water on the bar ; but, in my opinion, it is only a summer watering-place ; as the Portuguese told me, that in winter the bar is seldom passable for ships, as the breakers are very dangerous, and the swell a long way out- side it. At the lower water-place a butt may be filled in 8 minutes, and in 7 at the upper. A great quantity of salt is shipped at Villa Nueva. SAN LTTCAB. or the PORT OF SEVILLE.— A vessel bound for San Lacar, or Seville, should, after sighting land, bring the town of San Lucar just open of the point on which stands the ruin of the Fort of Espirito Santo, when a large etone building (not whitewashed) vnl\ be seen ; it is the easternmost in the town of San Lucar, and cannot be mistaken, as all the others are whitewashed ; bring this in a line over the North edge of the Point Espirito Santo, and run boldly in in that direc- tion, until a large square white building is seen at Bonanza, just clear or touching the low sandy point to the northward, covered with trees, called Point Seville ; then run with this last mark on, keeping the square building in sight, aikd pass Point Seville at 1^ cables' length ; then run over to Bonanza, and anchor in 5 or 7 fathoms before the square building or pier. The square building of Bonanza is close to the river, and about 1| miles from San Lucar. B^ night Espirito Santo, Bonanza, Chipiona, and Malandar Point are distinguished by hghts as shown in the table. The water breaks on Picaeho till half-lSood ; when there is any sea on, leave it on the port side. It is best to wait till flood tide to run in with ; we had 22 feet water at quarter ebb, and beat out, opening and shutting the square building at Bonanza with Point Seville. The South side of the entrance of the river is boraered by low black rocks, covered at quarter-flood. Weather permitting, a pilot may always be obtained, but they only put off when a ship is bound to the port. It is recommended that no ship taking the bar of San Lucar should attempt it on the ebb tide, especially if they have any suspicion that there are freshes in the river, because, with a broken sea and strong tide, a vessel may sheer on shore before she could recover herself.f TRAFALOAR. — Cape Trafalgar, by the ancients called the Promontory of Juno, is about 15 or 16 miles to the eastward of Cadiz, and 23 or 24 miles to the southward of it ; its appearance is flat, and distinguished by a white building, but a lighthouse is in course of construction on it. Those unacquainted with the navigation between * The descriptions of Lagos, Villa Nueva, TrafEdgar, and Tangier have been communi- cated by Captain W. H. Smyth, R.N., K.S.F., &c. t These Diroctions for San Lucar have been communicated by Captain J. Wharton, of the Romp, June, 1845, Iwifore the lights ' .ji,A ,i> COAST OP AFRICA. m this and Cape St. Mary, generally labour under great dread of a mle of wind from the S.W., and, fix>m want of knowins how these gales come on, frequently get into difficulties. The_ S.W. gales generally commence with the wind at 8. by W. or ' S.S.W., and continue blowing on these points five or nix hours, although the sea bets in from the westward ; and it is too common for persons, unaccustomed to navigate in this bight to have their minds impressed with the danger of the shoals lying on Point Regia, commonly called the shoals of San Lucar, and falsely represented as very larming. Under this apprehension they are induced to haul their starboard tacks on board, and push, for the Strait of Gibraltar ; whereas the real danger lies at the entrance of this strait, and consists of dangerous reefs of rocks, with uncertain sound- ings, in no wise to be depended on. Between Cape Trafalgar and Tarifa (and when you suppose yourself round them, and the straits open), m thick water, not able to gee land on either side, you will feel yourself in a very awkward situation to fi«d out the drift of the ship, or ascertain whether you are in a fair way to push through the Sit ; which you will be compelled to, do should the gale continue, and you are within e influence of the stream ; for you can (as before observed) gain no information by the lead of the reef of rocks which lie W. by N. of the Island of Tarifa, and are extremely dangerous. On the other hand, by standing to the westward, with the port tacks on board, at the commencement of a S.W. gale, when the wind is from the southward, for instance, at S.W. by 8., and you make four points leeway, you will make a fetch to the westward of Ayamonte ; or even with a N.W. course made good, you will weather the Bar of Huelba, and the lead will inform you the distance the ship is off the land, 15 fathoms being the very shoalest part you should stand into along the North shore. The outer shoal of San Lucar is not at a greater distance than 2| miles N.N.W. TN. W.^ from Point Regla ; the ground, outsit the shoal, is even and hard, with 10 fathoms of water close to it ; about half a mile to the northward 'of it there is a spot with 8 fathoms. No allowance is made for a S.E. current, which always prevails when out i>^ soundings, and even in 60 fathoms. A more particular description of the land between Cape St. Mary (on which there is a fixed light) and Cadiz may be found in the Sailing Directory. Cape Trqfa^ar, the last great promontory of this coast, may be knovni by its remarkable figure, being flat, and termmating with two sharp comers or angles. A round tower stands on the East corner ; to the eastward of the flat, the land is very uneven and mountainous. To the East of the flat land are high sandy cliffs, but none to the westward. It is to be noted that the northern side of the reefs called the Cabezos, lies 5| miles W.N.W. [ Wesf] from the light-tower of Tarifa. This appears to be the spot on which the British frigate Thisbe touched, in August, 1804 ; the depth over which was esti- mated at 14 feet. 2.— THE COASTS OF AFRICA, FROM TANGIER TO CAPE MESURADO. Before proceeding with the description of the coast of Maroceo, we will direct the attention to the following notice, issued by the British Consul, and which notice ought to be borne in mind by all frequenting these coasts : — " In consequence of several boats' crews having landed lately, from shipping of various nations, on the open coast of Maroceo, or West Barbary, m search, it is sup- posed, of water or other provisions, the Moorish authorities are desirous that all per- sons be cautioned that it is not only against the law of this land, and against the sanatory regulations, to land on any part of this coast, in places where there is not a port for their reception, but that, in consequence of the strict injunctions given to the people of this country by their government to prevent any ]/Kimns whatevev setting 48^ DESCRIPTION OF THE COASTS, ETC. fbot on land, or approaching near to it on the open coast, the lives of those who in- fringe the laws in such respect are exposed to danger. " The undersigned feels it, therefore, his duty to give all the puhlicity he can to this notice, for warning all commanders and masters of vessels, and especially those navigating under the nags either of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ire- land, or of the Kingdom of Hanover, or of the Hanseatio Republics of Lubeck, Bremen, and Hamburg, not to venture, upon any account, to land, or to allow any person under their caro or orders, to land or approach within muMket-8liot of the coast of Marocco or West Barbary, excepting within the harbours of any of the well-lcnowu ports of this country. (Signed) " E. W. Drummond Hay, ' " Tangier, Sept. 15, 1843." " Jler Britannic Mcyeaty'a Consul- General, S^c. TAITOIEB. — ^This place is of importance to the navigator, both in peace and wor, on account of the refreshments to be procured, which are almost the only traffic the Moors have. The principal articles are cattle, sheep, pigs, poultry, eggs, fhiit, and vegetables, of which a limited quantity is allowed to be purchased oy each ship. The bay affords convenient anchorage for vessels of all sizes opposite to the town, in from 8 to 10 fathoms, sand ; but it is to be observed that, on the eastern side, there is a rocky ledge, bearing E.S.E. from Tano^ier Point, and S.W. by W. f W. from Cape Malabat. This cape, in a line with Europa Point, Gibraltar, leads clear of the shoat ; and the anchora;^, therefore, lies with Gibraltar open of the cape. Ships moor to the N.W, and S.E., with the longest cable to the N.W., &c.* Tangier is described by Captain Washington as situate on a deep acclivity, rising ^t once from the beach, and presenting its eastern and not unpleasing aspect to a bay about three miles wide. It is surrounded by mouldering walls, round and square towers every 60 paces, and three strong gates. Its defences toward the sea are two batteries, one above the other, on the South side of the sea-gate. Directly in front of the landing-place, high on the wall, are about twelve guns ; to the North, m a circular battery commanding the bay, about twenty guns of all calibres, mounted on clumsy Moorish carriages, which would not stand fire for ten minutes ; crowning all, to the North, is an old and extensive castle, L'Kassbah, and the residence of the governor, On the land side, ruined walls and a ditch are the only defences. The gates are shut at sunset, and a watch is kept by night. All persons who visit this place should pay implicit obedience to the advice of the consul, as to the conduct to be observed during their intercoixrse \rith the natives. In rottnding Cape Malabat, some years since, at the distance of more than three- quarters of a mile from the shore, the Excellent, of 74 guns, touched upon a rock previously unknown ; at which time, from the starboard chains, were found 5^ fathoms, and 6 from the port. Cape Malabat then bore S. by E. a E., and the ship floated off in less than a minute. This rock is known by the name of the Almirante, and described as having over its shoalest part 3 fathoms of water. There is also a sunken rock at nearly the same distance from Tangier Point, discovered by the Pacifico schooner, in ^^18, and which lies with the inner coast of Tangier S. by W, IS. ty E.-] In all the extent betweeji Cape Spartel and Cape Cantin (lat. 32° 32'), as shown a the chart, there are regula r soundings toward the shore. In this track there are no harbours of conse<]^uence ; those which exist bein^- nearly choked up with sand. On sailing along, the inland mountains may be seen at a great distance, covered with snow, even in April and May. ♦ It is to be observed that the proper anchorage ia in the centre of the hay. On the "West of this anchorage is, or lately was, a large old mooring chain, supposed to have been laid down in the reign of Charles II., King of England, and found to extend nearly iu an East and Wost direction, and in a line on the North side of the town of Tangier ; its West end being nearly a mile from the nearest shore. Tangier Point is altogether sun'oundeJ by foul ground to a considerable distance. CAPE SPARTEL. 489 CAPE SPARTEL, the N.W. point of the state of Marocco, in situate in lat. 35' 47' 40 ", and Ion. 5° 56' W. The cape, at a distance, appears like an island, and is so hi^h as to be seen, in clear weather, at the distance of 14 or 15 leagues. The outer point, when seen from a short distance westward, appears uneven, with eminences on it like hummocks, and the high lands resemble the awning of a galley. The ground about the cape is quite clear, with the exception of some high rocks, steep-to. r Around the West side, and at about one-third of the whole height from the summit, is a range of well-defined basaltic columns, appearing like a cc^'onet. At the distance of 2 miles from shore are 98 fathoms, the bank immediately dro^.ping to an unfathom- able depth. To the southward of the cape the bank extends much farther off, and there is excellent anchorage on a bottom of mud and sand, and shelter from easterly winds. The following descriptions of the coast between the parallels of 36° and 28° (those of Cape Spartel and Cape Juba), we owe principally to the Survey of Lieutenants W. Arlett, in the ^tna, and H. Kellett, in the Raven, 1835-36 j and to the notices of Mr. T. J. Evans, of H.M.S. Bido, 1837-38.* From Cape Spartel the direction of the coast is S.W. 20 miles to Arzilla, a small fortified town situate close to the shore, between which and Cape Spartel thijre is good anchorage all along with an easterly wind. The depths of water are regular, 10 to 15 fathoms, over a sandy bottom, at 1 or 2 miles off shore. The coast-line is a flat, sandy, and shingly beach, rising to a fine grazinjif country in the interior. The Roadstead of Jeremia, the usual anchorage near Cape Spartel, extends from it 8 or 10 miles to the S.W. The Dido anchored in the following positions in smooth water, and well sheltered from a strong levanter, or easterly wind. 1st. — In 15 fathoms, sand and small shells. Cape Spartel bearing N.E. f N. ; the town of Arzilla, S. by W. ~ W. ; extremity of land to the right, two points nearly in a line, S.W. by S. Distance to the nearest shore about 1 f miles ; soundings very regular to a depth of 5 fathoms, at 2 cables' length from shore. 2nd. — In 13 fathoms, coral rock, gravel, and sand, Cape Spartel bearing N.E. % N. ; centre of the town of Arzillii S. i E. ; two bold and prominent points to the S.W. of the town, nearly in n ^ S.S. \V. | W. At the village of Almadronis, nearly midway between Cape Spartel and Arzilla, landing can be effcctttl. A boat of the Dido, sounding in this vicinity, landed, and numerous herds of cattUe were seen grazing in the city ; but on two officers and two seamen, part of the boat's crew, walking not more than 100 yards from the beach, in hopes of procuring stock, they were immediately seized by a party of Moors ; three were detained and conveyed into the country, the fourth having effected his escape. The Moors were armed, and were savage in their behaviour until they had made their Srisonera. The ship, then lying at her first anchorage, was soon under way, and ran own off Arzilla, demanding from the governor the officer and men detained. A party of Moorish horsemen were now sent to scour the t to the Noilh of the town of Arzilla is a castle in ruins ; and date trees, which overtop the walls, are growing in the couri. On the wall fronting the sea, which is strength- ened by three towers, twenty guns are mounted. Under the southern angle of the wall is a well whitewashed tomb. The country around is well wooded, and a quan- tity laid out in gardens. The population is supposed to exceed 600. f From Arzilla the coast trends to S.W. \ W., and at the distance of 4 miles the coast hills rise to the height of 734 feet j at 5 miles further is the Hajfa el livithi, a remarkable white cliff, in the shape of a wedge, which rises to 308 fcot above the sea, and presents the same form in all directions. It may be distinguished when 5 leagues off; but the best mark for the coast is the Peak of Fas, an insulated moun- tain, resembling a sugar-loaf, which stands 8. by ¥•. ^ E. [iS.JE. 2" »S.] from off the entrance of El Araichc, next described. £L ARAICHE, a picturesque ruin, is situate on the deep southeni point of thclUver AlKho AlKhoi the pool state, trade is abundan shore, v« • 8ee the Notice issued by H. B. M. Consul, given on page 488. t In tho liilitude of Arzilla the bank extends 12 miles from the land. Hero i« n mnckflrrl fishery, on which twenty or thirty Bpanifth and Portugueso feluccas are employed. Tlw method of taking the fish is by throe honks faatened togsthnr : the flshsrrrian throns s hnndftil of FBlt or Hand into the water, to which the fish rice, and are immediately jigged with great dexterity. They are cleaned and salted on the spot. EL ARAICHE. 49t At Khos, which here meandei-s through a rich and fertile valley. Al Khos signifies the how ; El Araiche, the pleasure garden ; but the people are barbarous, and the ;!ountrT is in an uncultivated j state. The population of El Araiche is abcut 2,500 ; and a little ' trade is carried on between this town and Gibraltar. Supplies are abundant, and there is a fine spring of water on the northei'n shore, very convenient for shipping. The best anchorage is with the town between the South and S.S.E. The mouth of the river, which appears very broad, is really very narrow at low water, and has then only 5 and 6 feet water over it, but there is a rise and fall of 9 to 12 feet. Inside the water deepens 24 feet. A " pap," or rising point, on the North side of the river, is 204 feet high above the sea. The best anchorage in the roads for vessels intending to enter the river, is with the dis- tant conical mountain, Fas, appearing in the centre of the entrance, 1 mile from the point, in 1 2 fauioms, sand. Between ArziUa and El Araiche the ground is tolerably clean, but not very good, being coarse gravel, with 25 and 30 fathoms of water, at from 1 to 3 miles from shore. Before El Araiche the depth decreases, and there are only 4 fathoms at 2 cables' length from shore. In sailing along this coast, care must be taken not to advance too near, unless it should be with a sti*ong easterly wind ; for sometimes, in calm weather, there is here a heavy swell from the West or N.W., which would render it difllcult to get ofi" shore. The site of Old Mamora, known by several whitewashed tombs, the chief of which is that of Muley Bu Selham, at the outlet of a stream said to flow fi'om a s-nall lake, 20 miles to the southward of £1 Araiche. At 2 cables' length from the bar is a depth of 5 fathoms, gradually increasing to 34 at 2 miles from shore. The coast between El Araiche and this spot is straight, and for the most part about 300 feet in height ; reddish cliffs for the first 10 miles, then sand-hills partly covered with brushwood. There are everywhere from 20 to 25 fathoms of water, at half a league from shore, and you may anchor off" the eoast hence to Slaa or Salee. Ships, in fact, must sometimes anchor here, during a calm, to avoid being drifted 1> the cun'cnts, which set to the southward, along the coast ; and the velocity of which, especially at the full ana change of the moon, is frequently fVom 1 to 2 miles an hour. The Peak of Fas, above mentioned, serves as a mark for Old Mamora, from which it bears nearly true East. From this place the coast extends 10 leagues S.S.W. to Mahedia. The coast is very clear, a little higher than the former, and readily known, being or white sand as far as about the middle of its do- I'livity, while the upper part appears like cliffs. The Kiver Sebou, on the South bank of which the town is situate, is impassuble, except in boats, or on rafts, at some distant"? from the sea, although navigable near the ocean. The town f>xtends from the sea-shore to the top of the highest land, so that you may readily distinguish, ft'om the offing, the walls of an old castle, situate in the upper part of it. Ships nmy anchor, at half a league from shore, in 12 or 14 futhiuns, sutidv ground; but, wlien the wind blows from the offing, and Hometimi s in fair weather, the swell is hero very great, as well OS alon^f the coast. The best, anchorage is with the t«v.n from ».K. by K. to S.E. by S. Mvhvdia was formerly a place of some conbcquencc, and is noted pq i 492 DESCRIPTION OF THE COASTS, ETC. for the ruins of fountains, arches, &c. Tlie town now contains only JJOO to 400 inhabitants, chiefly flshcrmen, who subsist by the sale of ahebbel, an ext'ellent flsh, much like salmon, which is caught here in great abundance. In the mmmer, the wind generally prevails from N. by E. to N.E. along the coast. During winter, there is a blustering S.W. and S.S.W. wnd ; and, in this season, when it begins to chop about to the South or S.E., shipping must get off, for then it commonly shiftj) to the S.W. and W.S.W., \vith foul weather. When it changes to "W.N.W. or N.W., the weather is likely to be clear. Between Mehedia and Slaa or Salee, the coast is rather low, with double land, very even, with a white sandy strand, therefore readily known. At about half-way the strand rises, and thence, southward, the shore consists of black and steep rugged rocks, with small hillH. SLAA and RABAT.— The towns of Slaa and Rabat are divided by the river called the 3h Reqreb. In this river, between the two towns, some sloops of war, bulongine to the Moorish sovereign, were formerly laid up for the winter. But Mr. Jackson has said that, going thence to Mugodor, a few years since, the vessel in which ho was, of about 1 50 torn t burden, struck three times on the bar: and, as the sand continues to accumulate, it is likely that, in another century, there will be a separation from the ocean at ebb tide* Slaa, or Salkk, says Captain AVaMhington, once the terror of the seas, so renowned for its rovers, whoso daiing exploits reached even to our coasts ; whose city and port were a constant some of riot, and bustle, and activity j now ruined, still, and lifeless. The present town, built on a sandy point, extending to the sea, forming the north- eastern bank of the rivtr, is about half a mile in length by a (luarter in breadth, sur- rounded by wall." ;)0 feet high, and square towers every 50 paces. Its defences, n battery of twenty guns, facing the sea, a round fort at tne entrance of the river, and a gun or two on the gates. The ■ mosques, arches, and fountains in the city, show traces of beautiful sculpture, and of great antiquity. Streets narrow, and houses sombre, like all Moorish towQS. Population about 10,000, of which 500 may be Jews, with apparently little or no occupation. The river, called Btt Reqreb, is hero about .'500 yards broad, when full. The bar, about one-eighth of a mile from the entrance, extends almost ocross in a W.S.W. direction, with 3 or 4 feet on it at low water, leaving a channel at each end ; the Moors use tljc eusteni. Rise of tide, 9 or 10 foot. From the anchorage off-shore the water shoalens very gradually till close to the bar, wherc it suddenly drops from 7 to U fathoms. Here is almost invariably a heavy surf. Rabat, on the S.W. side of the river, is 50 or 60 feet above its level, on bunks of crumbling sandstone. It is crowned by a venerable and battlementod Kashah, or citadel. A curtain of 500 yards, facing the sea. Hanked by two circular batteries of twelve guns each, about as Inuny more in the Kassbuh, and a small battery overlook- ing the river at the S.W. end of tlu» to>^ni, form its sea defences. The town is thn>c- (piarters of a mile long bv one-third in breadth, and wuUed orchards of about 200 acres reach along the banks of tlie river. The old Kassbah was built in the twelfth century, and some subterraneous maga- liines in it, remarkable for their strength, being Iwmb-proof, are still preserved! tiiero are, also, the remains of a small battery, which defended the entrance of the river. At a short distance South of the castle,* on an elevated situation, is a scjuare fort, the woUs of which are about 2 miles in circuit, and sti-enj^thened by s({uare towers; thn encloBO the castle, the town of Rabat, and a largo Hi)aee of ground, where stiuid a ])nlnce, and the niausolcmn of the Sharcef. or Empei-or Sidi, or Seedy Mohammed. A remarkable old tower at Rabat, called the Towar of livttl Jfnitmn, is the.lwst M-a-mark for this place. It is built of liewn stone, is 180 feet in height, '■ el Beida, i.e., wliito house. A vosspl, the Rom, from CJibraltar, chartered for Ckua lliiiiira (Itiilian, " white houso "), not tinding tho niimo on liis chart, made for Cape Blanco, mill on liindinK, tho ciiptiiin iind part of the crow woro mado priHonors, and Hborutod with i!ii!i( iiiiy. The notice from our consul-general, given on jiagc IMR, ought to bo very strictly iiltondoil to. 404 DESGRIP'AION OF THE COASTS, ETC. on the beach, within a point projecting half a mile N.N.E., trw, and forminpp a cove, three-quarters of a mile deep, and well sheltered from westerly winds. This towB, 18 well as Fidallah, was built for ihe exportation of corn. The towers of i rse mosques are conspicuous, and one is of superior height. Around the town ai'e m>n:j palm trees and gardens ; water is abundant. Inhabitants, about 700, including Jews, among whom is a British consular agent. li'hia place is easily knoi^n by its towers, one of which seems almost as high ea Hassan s Tower at Salee. The coast betweer is low, and bordered with small isletii, all v( r near the land. There is a reef rocks at one-thii-d of a mile oif the town, and the landing-place is behind them. Some other prrts of the bottom are likewise rotky, and in winter the anchorage is unsafe, owing to the current, &c. From the cape, rocks extend to the distance of nearly half a mile, and farther off is a rocky bank of 6 fathoms. At 20 miles to *i -^ West is a depth of 150 fathoms, daric sand, decreasing rapidly toward the land to 45 fathoms at 12 miles from shore, and then gradually to the beach. AZAMOR* — On a sand-hill at about 13 leagues to the south-westward of Dar el Beida is the small town of A ;amor, situate on the South side of the mouth of a river called by Mr. Jackson the Morbega, and by Captain Washington Wad-oom-er-hegh,* Its walls, crumbling to ruin, are tenanted by storks '1 he place is dull and lifeless ; streets narrow and dii-ty ; but provisions, fish', vegetables, and fruit, abundant and good. The population about 1,0U0, including Jews. These carry on a considerable trade in wool, which is shipped from Mazagan. The inhabitants of the countiy around, who are of superior stature, are chiefiy pastoral, possessing large flocks of sheep and goats, and mostly live in tents. Wood is scarce and dear. The bar of the river is dry at low water. The entrance is dangerous, and the shore flat, having not above 8 or 10 fathoms of water for 1 or 1^ leagues from shore, and foul rocky ground, so that it is not safe to anchor hereabout. M AZAflATT. — From Azam'^r to the remains of the town of Mazagan, on the S.W., the distance is 10 miles. This place is on a low rocky point, projecting to the North, which forms the western limit of a sandy cove, of about 1 1 miles, and affording a good roadstead for small yessels. It is defended by several redoubts, enjoys a little commerce, excellent water, and good supiilies. A large proportion of the buildings are used as storehouses for wool, of which great quantities are hence exported. There is a tank, admirably constructed, which will contain several thousand tons of water. A lofty building, 140 feet high, now in ruins, appears to have been a light- house. T'lere is anchorage off the coast, at a league from the shore, in 15 fathouis, sandy \i* and ; but at the West point of Mazagan is a- ledge of rocks, which stretch to th'^ 1% JS. \_N.N.E.'\ about a league into the sea, and are uncovered at low water, A. df ngerous patch oi rocks, because the sea only breaks on them at low water in bad weather lies 720 fathoms W.N.W. from the old light-tower. The best anchorage is to bring the two fla^staffs on the Sardinian consul's house in one, and anchor in 6 fathoms water ; by doing so, you come upon a patch of blue clay, the rest of the bay being all rocky bottom v^thout exception (June, 1839). The shore hence, towaid Cape Blanco North, is everywhere rocky and dangerous, to a considerable distance from it ; and ships that stop here muct anchor at 2 leagues off, in 35 or 36 f ithoms of water, oozy ground; the swell is almost always very great, and the current is very strong. From Mazagan to Cape Blanco the aistance is 4 leagues. The shore between is merely a ridge of sand-hills. About midway are the ruins cf Tett, or ^Yrf, an ancient town, and a conspicuous tower, 128 feet high and 148 feet above the siii, which may therefore bo seen from a great distance. Two largo tombs, kept white- washed, stand on either side of it. The coast hereabout should not be apjproached nearer than 1^ miles, as scattered rocks lie off the shore, and the bottom is very uneven. The btncli, in some places Or I'm' n-' tnlyh ; " ..! >thcv of Ileibage." CAPE BLANCO-CAPE CANTIN. i95 :*tid.y, is generally lined with craggy rocks. A line of barren hUls, 200 feet high, b; —^ -o t*»e beach along the whole distance, and terminate just to the northward of the ^pe in a low and dark but abrupt and rocky cliff. CAFE BLANCO North.— This is in lat. 33° 8', a little to the southward of the headland last mentioned. It is 170 feet high, appears to be of white sandstone, and the lines of strata, white and red, rising parallel to the horizon for some distance, suddenly drop at nearly a right angle to the water, and the cliff appears like a wall. In a bight on the S.W., which is formed by the cape, is a good anchoring place, of gufficient extent for several ships. At 22 Liiles westward of Cape Blanco are soundings of 150 fabhoms, fine sand, gradually detreasing to 28 fathoms at 4 miles from the shore. A dark and rather projecting cliff, formerly represented as an islet, under the name of Duksal, stands at about 4 miles southward from Cape Blanco ; and, at 6 miles from the cape, hills rise gradually from the beach te the height of 465 feet, the greatest elevation on the western shore of Marocco. Hereabout are the ruins of Woladia, where it seems there was once a harbour. At 4 and 7 miles to the southward of these, on the edge of the cliff, are those of two other small towns, supposed to be Eder and Teturia. CAPE CANTIN', or Bas al Hndik,* in lat. 32° 32|', is a steep headland, which rises precipitously to 21 1 feet above the sea, and has a ledge of rocks projecting from it ; on its summit is a small sepulchre. At 16 miles westward from the cape are soundings of 100 fathoms, fine sand; this depth gradually decreases eastward. From the preceding description it will appear, that between Cape Blanco and Cape North the coast is much higher than the coast between Cape Blanco and El Araicho. It trends to the S. by W. | W. \_S.W. a «.] 12J leagues, and is safe all along, having only some small islets very near the land. At 2 leagues off the depths are 40 and fathoms, oozy, ground. The currents are very stronf/, and generally run in the direction of the coast, S.W. by S. From Cape Cantin to the North point of Asfee or Saffi Bay the coast trends S.S.W. l^icarly South'\ 4 leagues, and is much higher than the coast alr»iady described. Between these points, at the distaiice of a league from shore, is a rocky bank, extend- ing North ana Soulh, true, having over it from 30 to 40 fathoms, and, at times, abounding with fish. From the ^ifoith point of the bay (which is foul) to the town of Asfee, or Salfi, the distance to the S.S.L. is 2^ leagues. Saffi. — The North cape of the Bay of Saffi fonns two headlands ; on the southern one is a tomb or sanctuary. The coast between Cape Cantin and the bay is one con- tinued white cliff, with a sandy beach at its base ; the cliff, riiiing gradually to its southern projection , is there 530 feet in height, and here the bay commences. In the bight within is a ravine, the bed of a winter torrent ; and on the slope stands the ancient town of Saffi, in lat. 32° 18' or 32° lU', between two liills, which render it in- tolerably hot ; and, in wi.iter, very disagreeable, as the waters from the neighbouring mountains, occasioned by the rams, discharge themselves through the main street into the sea. The road is safe in summer ; but, in winter, when the wind is from South or S.W., vesstis are freciuently obliged to make off to sea. Safti iH a considerable town, surrounded by a wall 31 feet high, with a ditch, and defended by twonty-tbur heavy guns next the sea. The tower of cue mosque is 200 feet above the surface. Fresh water is scarce, and procured from wells southward of the town. The country in the immediate vicinity ajjpoars sandy and barre"; but the interior abounds in corn, and two falls of rain in a year are said to be sufficient to bring it to maturity. During the Kuramer months, or from I.Inroh to October, the ba^ afford.; as good anchorage, and smoother water, than any other on the coast, but is entirely exprned to westerly wMids ; the bottom is of sandand mud, and there is generally a depth of • Rat al .ffffrfi*— Cape of Pslm Oi-ovM. 49d DESCRIPTION OF THE COASTg, ETC. about 15 fiithoms at a mile from shore. VeHsels may anchor at a, league from the town, in 20 or 22 fathoms of water, gray nnd oozy sand. To anchor in the road, the NGrth point, on which stands a low towe: lust be brought a little to the northward of W.N.E. Or, further in the bay, the same point may be brought North (by compass) a little easterly, when the northernmost of two northern points will appear about a ship's length open, without the southernmost ; and the high castle of the town S.E. by E. or S.E. ; the depths 16 to 18 fathoms, fine grey sax A. There is also anchorage within, in 15 fathoms, with the North Point N.N.W. or N. by W. ; but t^ese are the summer roads : in the winter, you must anchor further from the land, in 20 or 22 fathoms, as already shown. You may boldly run in to the summer roads by night, with the castle bearing E. by S. or East. J^ bound to Saffi, from the northward, shape such a course as will lead sufficiently to the westward of Cape Camin, in order to avoid the rocks about that cape. You may easily know on which side of Saffi you are standing, as the land to the northward of the bay is high and uneven, and that to the southward of it is a plain, even land. From i he South point of Saffi Bay, which is very low, to the inouth of the Wad Tansift, or River of Marocco, the coast trends S.S.W. j W. [(S. | W.'] 16 miles, and presrnra, generally, a line of sand-hills, from 150 to 200 feet high, which, in some places, terminate m. low cliflFs, and in others slope to the beach. Inland is a ridge of sandy looking hills, covered with brushwood, the highest 650 feet above the sea. There is a large tank on shore, nearly midway between Saffi and the Tansift, and on the southern bank of the river is an old castellated building, square and roofless, v.hich was built for the use of travellers. The Bar of the Tansift, although a con- siderable river, is in summer entirely dry at low water. MOGOBOK. — iTom the Tansift the coast extends in the direction of S.W. by W, \ W. \_S. 40" fF".] to a low sandy point, forming a cove to the northward of it, with rocks within half a mile from the beach. The coast, which from the Tansift is barren and uncultivated, and from 200 to 300 feet in height, here assumes features of fertility. The lofty Jibel Iladid or Iron Mountains, extending more than 20 miles, is a mass of high land, which here rises to the height of 2,350 feet ; another, nearer the sea, with a conspicuous tomb on its summit, rises to 2,100 feet. A sandy beach continues from the reef point nearly S.W. \_S. 21° W.'] 12 miles, to Mogodor ; the inland prospect is here bounded by the Botof sand-hills, which extend parallel to the beach, at the diiitance of a mile. SUERRAH OR SuiRA, other^7i^e Mogodor, is the only port on this coast which maintains i\ regular commercial intercourse with Europe. Its population has been computed ut 9,500 persons. The town is built on a low flat desert of accumulating sand, which separates it from the cultivated country, and is defended from the en- croachment of the sea by rocks, which extend from the northern to the southern gate i though, at spring tides, it is almost surrounded by water. There are two towns, or rather a citadel and an outer town. Those Jews who are not foreign merchants are obliged to reside in the latter, which is walled in, and protected by batteries and cannon, as well as the citadel. The wind being high all the summer, with little intermission, nothing grows here in sufficient quantity to supply the inhabitants ; all kinds of fruits and vegetables are, therefore, brought from gardens 4 to 12 miles distant; and the cattle and poultrv are also brought from the other side of the sandy hills, where the country, althougli interspersed with Hartiahe, or stony spots, is capable of producing every necessary of life. The insulated situation of the town, and other circumstances, deprive the inha- oitants of all resource, excepting that of comuierce, so that every individual of the plact is supported directly or indirectly by it. In this respect, it differs from every other port of the coast. An island, which lies to the S.W. of the town, forms the harbour. This island is about 1^ miles in circumference; and between it and the main land, on the South, is the anchorage. There are here, i.i some parts, only 12 foot at low wator; therefore, large ships do not enter the port, but anchor at about 1^ miles westward CAPE MOGODOR. y'Kiv^feHCl' 4X^ pom the town, ad, the North northward of (by compass) )pear about a le town S.E, [so anchorage t^ese are the d, in 20 or 22 ids by night, id sufficiently ttt that cap^. le land to the it is a plain, I of the Wad 16 miles, and hich, in some d is a ridge of bove the sen. iinsift, and on and roofless, though a con- f S.W.byW, i,rd of it, with nsift is barren res of fertility. p, is a mass of the sea, with ] 12 miles, to which extend !oast which ion has been accumulating Tom the en- outhern gate ; wo towns, or lerchants are jatteries and f grows here d vegetables s and poultry try, althougu necessary of •ive the inha- idual of the s from every his island is the South, low watc'! ■ics webtward of the Skalla, or lon^ battery, which extends along the West side of the town toward the sea. On approaching the land in the parallel of Mogodor, the first remarkable feature which appears, is the craggy summit of Mount Atlas, covered with snow, and con^ trasting with the dark rid^e of hiUs between it and the coast. To the northward, the Jibel Hadid appears insulated, and, as you draw nearer, a lon^ patch of sand becomes visible ; and finally, the white towers of Mogodor rise, as it were, from the water. Soundings, in 100 fathoms, may be found at 23 mil^s from shore, -when the water immediately becomes dr loured ; the souuding^ decrease very gradually, over a bottom of sand. Mogodor has a beautifiil appearance at a distance from the sea ; the houses being all of stone, and white. The streets are, nevertheless, narrow and dull. A winter seldom passes but some ships are driven ashore by the CW. winds ; and this happens generally between the 8th of December and the 18th of January, the reason called Liali by the Arabs, and the only period dangerous for shipping in the bay. lAevtenant Arlett says, that, of the inhabitants of Mogodor, in 1835, 4,000 were Jews, separated by a wall from the quarter of the Moors, whose portion is called the Citadel. All laborious work is performed by Jews, and domestic servants are all of that class. Much of the trade is also monopolized by the same people ; for, owing to certain exemptions from duty, they are enabled to undersell European traders. The principal exports are wool, ^m, wax, hides, skins, almonds, honey, ostrich feathers, and gold-dust. Imports, — iron, hardwares, and cotton goods. Duties fixed and not very heavy. The want of water has been diminished, by the construction of an aqueduct, which conveys the stream from tha river, 1| miles distant, to several large tanks in different parts of the town. One of these is exceedingly convenient for vessels watering, being close to a jetty, ins'do a fortified bridge, which connects an islet with the main ; here boats may fill, toward high vater, perfectly sheltered from all winds. The market is excellent ; provisions of all sorts, including fish, poultry, and game, are abundant and cheap ; as are, also, fruit and vegetables. The position of the British consul's house, as given by Lieutenant Arlett, is 21° 30' is9' N., and 9" 46' 0' W. Captain Boteler makes the longitude 9° 44'. From the roof of this house, the highest snowy peak of Atlas is seen, bearing S. 45° E.* The roadstead: during the winter, can scarcely be considered tenable ; and even in the summer, the strong N.E. winds which prevail cause a very disagreeable sea. A westerly win|UULCIU. m DESCRIPTION OF THE COASTS, ETC. the sand ; the fine particles of which, mingling with the haze occasioned by the heavy surf, render the coast very indistinct. From Porto Cansado the coast trends westward to Cape Jub;/, in 12" 65' W. At a short distance to the westward of Porto Cansado, a cliff, from 90 to 100 feet in height, again commences, and continues for 17 miles. The cliff is of dark sandstone, and the bottom, being also of dark sand, gives a green appearance to the water. A flat desert extends inland as for as the eye can reach. There is no beach, the sea breaking against the cliffs, on which it appears to be encroaching. Where the cliffs terminate, the land becomes broken into sand-hills partly covered with bushes, and the coast trends in a true direction S. 80' W. to Cape Juby, 15 or 16 miles. Cape Juby is a low sandy point ; near its extremity is a hummock, covered with bushes, appearing like an islet. Rocks extend from the cape to one-third of a mile. Here the coast changes abruptly to S.W. {true), and forms some coves, off the points of which are scattered rocks. !From Cape Noon to Cape Juby the bank of soundings extends to an equal distance, and the depth increases very gradually to the shore. CuimENTS ALONG ShOBE, BETWEEN CapE SpAUTEL AND CaPE BoJADOR. During five months (from March to August), the time occupied by the ^tna and Jtaven, in the survey of the coast, 'a distance of 750 miles, no day passed in which the former was not at least twelve hours at anchor, usually at the distance of from 4 to 5 miles from shore, and in positions well adapted for making observations on the currents, which were constantly attended to. Independently of this, the Haven was repeatedly sent to the distance of 20 and 30 miles from land ; particularly when fixed and conspicuous objects afforded opportunities for ascertaining her exact position ; by comparing which with that which should have been given by the course steered, the rate and direction of the current could be aseertained to a considerable degree of exactness. From Cape Spartel, along the coast, to Arzilla, and also to the distance of 7 or 8 miles from the shore, a regular tide was experienced, running parallel to the coast; but its strength was rather greater to the northward than to the southward. In this distance, at 15 miles from land, no tide or current was perceptible. From Arzilla, southerly, a tide was still experienced, gradually diminishing in strength till its direction could not be ascertained. From the parallel of 34° 30' N. to the distance of 20 miles in the offing, a steady southerly set was first experienced. This current, in the offing, continues invariably to follow the direction of the land ; its velocity increasing or diminishing from the rate of four-tenths to 1 mile an hour, according to the strength or duration of the north-eastei'ly winds. From Mogodor to Cape Bojador, except in particular instances, the current con- tinues invariably to run in the direction of the coast. Its greatest strength is usually at the distance of from 3 to 6 miles from the land, gradually decreasing on receding from it. Its average rate between 31 1° to 28° N. is from one-half to three-quarters of a mile in the hour. At Cape Juby, probably from its stream being in some measure confined by the projecting cape, and perhaps by the Canary Islands (distant 58 milesjj it increases its rate to 1:| miles, but diminishes off Cape Bojador to 1 mile. It did not appear that this current was influenced by any particular wind, but near the shore a tide was generally perceived." {See remarks on the currents on pages 278 — 283.) Shipwrecks. — The various tribes of Arabs, frequenting the coast of the desert, have already been alluded to, as well as the danger of falling into their power. Their practice has been, when a ship is stranded, and the crew compelled to surrender, to take everything portable from the vessel in boats ; and then, it the sea do not dash it in pieces, they set fire to it, that it may not serve as a warning to other ships which may be so unfortunate as to follow the same course. SHIPWRECKS ON THE COAST OP AFRICA. 803 Mr. Jackson has communicated a stratagem bj which a ship was, many years ago, saved on this coast. The vessel was utranded, and one of the crew being a Spaniard, who had been used to fish there from the Canaries, advised the captain to let go an anchor, as if the voysel were riding, aud in safety. Some Arabs coming on board, the captain told them to bring their gums and other produce, for that they were come to trade with them, and were going away again in a few days. As it happened to be low water, the vessel, on the return of the tide, floated ; they then weighed anchor, and set sail, to the great disappointment of the people on shore. Of the vessels wrecked, from time to time, on the coast of the desert, many are pro- bably neVer heard of; and, if any of the crew survive their hardships, they are in- duced, seeing no prospect of emancipation, to become Mohammedans, and nothing is afterwards known or heard of them ; the vessel is supposed to have foundered at sea, and all passes into oblivion. It has been stated that there were about thirty vessels of different nations, the greater part English, lost on this coast between 1790 and 1806, part of whoso crews found their way to Marocco, and gave some account of their catastrophe ; of the remainder, a number were subsequently ransomed ; but the majority were either lost, or dispersed in various parts of the desert, after a lapse of time, in consequence of the consul's making no offers sufficiently advantageous to induce the Arabs to bring them to Mogador. In former editions we gave extended accounts of the shipwreck^' vnd suffe—'ngs of the crews of several vessels. These occurred many years ago, before the uns.Epected drift to the S.E., which has been dilated on in pages 277 — 281, was rr ognised. Although the climate and character of the people remain unaltered, yet il s believed that the wrecks are but few compared with form or years, as in thope times the losses did not occur from stress of weather, but through errors in reckf i ';. ^: and judgment. While, thei'efore, the silent and imperceptible influence of this fa1 i.l di ift, if unheedec\ still remains as powerful as ever, it behoves the sailor to be always on his guard to counteract it, and all caution is most earnestly impressed on his attention. One of the interesting results of these terrible shipwrecks and sufferings was the account given by Robert AdamS of the wreck of the Charles on the coast in question on Oct. 11, 1810. The crew were instantly seized by the Moors, who were fishing en the coast, and were treated with the utmost barbarity, and many of them were mur- dered. Adams was sold, and, after many painful wanderings, he visited Timbuctoo, being the first European who had done so, and was ultimately ransomed by Mr. Jos. Dupuis, the British consul at Mogador. The sufferings of John Riley, who commanded the American brig Commerce, and of his companions, who wei-e wrecked near Cape Boiador, in September, 1815, have also been related as a warning. They were also the victims of the brutal treatment of the Moors, but were ultimately ransomed by Mv. Willshire. The narrative of Captain Juda[h Paddock of the loss of the Oswego., ^iirigh ignorance of the coast and effect of the currents, and the usual sad tales of tiit captivity of the crew and the consequent sufferings till relieved by the British consul, have also been given as wai'uings. The affecting narrative of tho loss of La Mediise, Fi-ench frigate, on the Arguin Bank, to the s(»uthward of Cape Blanco, on the 2nd July, 1816 ; which may probably be attributed to a similar cause — the direction of the currents. It has been justly observed, that the annuls of naval distress do not offer a more terrible instance of shipwreck. La Ileduse sailed, 17th June, 1816, Trcm the Isle d'Aix, under the com- mand of M. de Chaumureys, havifig on board 240 persons; of which the greater portion consisted of soldiers intended to garrison those forts at the mouth of the Senegal, which had been restored by the treaty of peace ; they were accompanied by the newly-appointed govenor of that place. The ship ran aground on the bank, in the parallel 19° 36'. A great consternation ensued ; and, after many angry deliberations, it was resolved, as they had only six boats on board, to break up the vessel, and with its material construct a raft large enough to place the soldiers on it, who were then to be towed ashore. 504 DESCRIPTION OF THE COASTS, ETC. On the 6th of July, the embarkation from the wreck took place, in the greatest oonfaaion. One hundred and forty-seven penions (including the captain and surgeon) were confided to the raft. The precipitation with which it was built prevented its being fitted with railings. By the boats, however, the raft was inhumanly abandoned ; it was thus left to its fate amidst all the horrors of famine. In an element whicrh already covered one half df their bodies, the greater part of those upon it at once yielded to despair. The recital describes the melancholy events of the twelve days ; during which time, a principal portion of sutitonanco was derived from the bodies of deceased c()in].nnics! At this period, only fifteen men remained, and these were happily discovered and taken off, on the 17lh of July, by the Arijua, French brig, which restored them to their country. Another case was related by Captain Grover, in the " Geographical Journal," vol. xvi., 1846, page 162. In this the orig Coifricr anchored near the Island of Arguin, and part of the crew were tempted to land, when they were immediately made pri- soners with great violence and cruelty, and kcjit sc for eleven months. Other instances of ships lost upon this coast might bo given ; but those selected will be sufficient for our purpose. CAPE BOIADOR to CAPE BLANCO.— The tropical regions of the African coast between Cape Boiador and Capo Blanco, present to contemplation the Sahara, considered as the most eylonsive desert on the globe. This desert consists of inad- hesive sands, which are driven about by the winds, and chiefly by those from N.E., by which they are disturbed and carried to an astonishing distance. This question of the red dust, which fulls in the open nir, is more amply discussed hereafter. The few remarks which follow will suffice hei-e. Of the merchant-fleet from St. Helena, under convoy, in November, 1813, most of the ships had their sails covered with red sand, and they must have bcei. Trom 400 to 600 mileg from shore, in about 27" and 28' N., after a succession of easterly wind^. " I once," says Mr. Luecock, " saw the iiails and deck of a vessel covered with it, when 400 miles fVom the coost, and have heard of the same phenomenon being re- marked at a far greater d'^-tanec. This moving expanse of sand was, probably, at some anterior period, a large inland shallow sea, communicating with the Medtiter- ranean by the Syrtes [Gulf of Sydi-a], &c. A similar nh.?nomenon occurred to the brig Parasboro*, on her voyage from Bar- badocs to Belfast, and when she was upwards of 900 miles from tue main land of AfHca. The wind, it will Imj observed, had been at East, and wos interrupted by ore of those gales which will be noticed hereafter, in our descrii)tion of the Azores. In lat. 30° 60' N., Ion. 32" 40', Cape de Verde Islands bearing S.E., distant 690 miles, the appearance of a heavy squall rising in the S.l<'. direction. Half-past six p.m., light- ning, thunder, and the squall approaching nearer. At thirty minutes past ai.\ p.m., the sun about 16'' above th" western horizon, became overcast with peculiar looKins clouds, and every uppearunce of on ajiprouehing storm. I consemieutly sliortcncd sail, although the barometer did not inuicnte anything serious. At eight p.m., the wind became very varir.'.ile, from N.E. to 8.W., every ten or fifteen minutes iilter- nately, for two houra. There was a fall of rain when the heaviest oiithe s(iuiill wuh on the zenith. \t midnight it had all passed to the S.W., and the wind resumed itH former pluec, l''.UHt. At daylight, the decks, rigainii, n/mrx, and paint vork mre covered with mud : ond as the sun dfied it, it had the appeaiunco of a very fine red mould, with no siind in it. CAPE BOIADOR is represented by the Chevalier de liorda, in Int. 26" 12 J, but the late surveys exhibit in 26" 7' only. The cape has some roeks about it, but on its South side is a bay iiHording anehornge in 4 or 6 fathoms, and ships may iinchor further out in from 16 to 20 fathoms, within a league of the shore, on a liottomof sand, broken sliells, &'e. The Baron Roussin says, that the cosist ft; the nofihward of Cape Boiador is similar to that of the desrrt to which it belongs. It is arid and sandy, the only signs of vrgc- CAPE BOIADOR TO CAPE BLANCO*: 005 tation being a few small tufts of dried brambles, scattered promiscuously here and there. It presents no other variety than some flat downs of a tabular form, whose base can scarcely be seen at the distance of 3 miles firom the beach. The nature of its soil is exclusively siliceous, being sand without any mixture whatever. The surface of this immense plain is so completely horizontal, that it actually appears to have been levelled. In some places on the coast it terminates in a steep cliff, and in others in a gentle descnnt toward the sea. These cliiSti are streaked witn horizontal bods of different shades, approaching to white ; the lower ones being generally thinner, and of a more reddish cast than the upper. To the northward or the parallel of 23' N., this soil is overspread with a crust of block earth, which, from its bting nearly general, may be taken as its covering, and is of a tolerable thickness. Tiiib species of crust, no doubt, derives its consistency from the great humidity which it contracts during the rainy reason, and the extreme heat to wnich it is again suddenly and con- stantly exposedT. By the repeated shocks of the sea, huge masses of this black crust fall to the Dottom of'^ the cliffs, and relieve the sameness of the shore. They first resemble rocks on which the sea breaks, but their corners arc soon worn away, and they soon present but a heap of sand. On the whole extent of the coast, as far as Cape Verde, there is not a single piece of granite. Cape Boiador, which lies in 26" 7' N., and 14° 30' 34" W., is not very remarkable. When seen from the northward, it presents a strand of red sand, having a gradual descent toward the sea : and its western extremity, which is very low, roruw a small bay Avith the cliff which imme- diately follows. The position here given is that of the easternmost point of the cliff, which has been selected as the most remarkable one in the neighbourhcod; its height being about 70 feet. The depth along the coast, 3 or 4 mi ics to the northward of Cape Boiador, varies from 12 to 20 fathoms, increasing gradually toward the parallel of the cape. The nature of the bottom throughout is of sand and broken shells, or of sand and gravel. At the distance of 3 leagues to the seaward tbere are 25 fothoms of water ; and the sandy bottom becomes more general ; a circumstance which 's common to all the African coast. It is possible to anchor in the small bay of Cape Boiador, but the bottom is foul. At the distance of half a mile from the shore there are 13 or 14 fathoms of water. IVom Cape Boiador the coast trends S.W. J S. [S. 20° W.] about 22 leagues, to a very remarKal)le cliff, about 300 feet high. The "tiff seems to be the Penha OrandS, or Orcat Rock of the charts. As its height considerably exceeds that of any spot in its vicinity, it may serve as a good land-mark. All the coast thus fai presents, alternately, cliffs and sandy beaches ; but more particularly the former. It is from 150 to 200 feet in heignt; being flat at ita summit. The land in the interior, on whicu brushwood is very scarce, is of a darkish colour. The depth of water on this part of the coast is considerable. At 2 miles from the beach, bottom cannot be found it 22 fathoms. On the parallel of 25° 60' N., and at \\ miles from the shore, bottom may be had in 15 or 20 fathouis, gravel and broken shells. The depth again increases ; and under the Penha Grande, at a mile from the foot of the cliff, there are 20 fathoms, hard bottom, with gravel and broken shells. The summit of the Penha Grand6 is in 25° 7' 6 ' N., and 14° 60' 63' W. > it is flat and arid ; all its declivities are precipices from broken earth, which has fallen down, the colour of which is gray. The whole of the coast is perfectly clean, even to the beach. From the Penha OrandS, after a slight indentation, the coast trends S.S.W. \ W. \S. 6° WA 8 leagues, and includes a slender bay, now colled Garnet liai/. It then forms a well-defined elbow, and trends nearly S.W. by W. i W. [S. H:.] 29 IcoBues. On all this extent, it presents one contimied cliff, witn the exception of two or three places., wliore it slopes to the sea ; the elift' being obout 150 feet hiffh. Freciuently, at a short distonce from the water's edge, between the clifl" oud the Kondy rocks which liure cover tlie beaoh, there is a chain of white sandy downs. The summit of the cliflf is even and horizontal ; it follows nearly o rixht line, interrupted only by Bome small flst downs, ncari-eiy perceptible. The whole of the beoch is continuuUy woshed by an exceedingly heavy surf, and there is no sign of vegetation on the whole cooNt. 3 8 • •M DESCRIPTION OF THE COASTS, ETC. Qtt&et Bay, which k thfe Atiffta dot Buiuoa of the FortognaMe, abonnda with «od, bream, hake, and variens kind of other fiih. Two ilet^ea to the southward of it •re seven small table-hilk, ealled the Seven Oapea, whioh constitute an excellent land-maric. *.' From the elbow formed by the coast, on the South side of Garnet Bay, to the soath- Westward, the de]^th diminishes a little ; from 16 fathoms it gradually lessens to 11 fiiithoms, and continues nearly the same in a space of six miles. We shall now have arrived at the parallel of 24''^ N., and immediately abreast of an interruption in the cliff, at a beach of white sand, about a leasue in extent. Beyond this sand, which does not reach ftir into the interior, is a body of stUl water, having the appearance of a lake or river, with a sandy islet in the middle of it. This is the upper part of an inlet named Bio do Ouro, or Oold River. Continuing a south-westerly course, along a neck of sand, whioh separates the river firom the ocean, and whioh is alternately interspersed with olifb, after running 10 leagues from where it was first observed, we arrive at its entrance. In this run, at the distance of 1 to 3 miles fh>m the shore, the soundings var^ from 16 to 8 fkthoaig, with a hard bottom, and shells. On approaching the nver, white sand will be found. RIO OtJRO, OR GOLD RIVER.— The entrance of this inlet is in 23° 86' N., aad 15° li8f W. Its breadth, taken from the outer cliff on the West bank, to the cliff on the bend of the coast forming the East bank, is 7i^ miles ; but a very low sandy point stretches to the southward, m>m the West bank, in such a manner as to leave only a firee chanriel of a mile in width at the utmost. Neither to the northward, nor at the entrance of this channel, does any island exiit, although the old charts mark several \ but, at 20 miles to the N.E. of the northern point of the entrance, and on the meridian of the islet in the interior before men- tioned, there is a cliffy mound of sand, which, being insulated on a low sandy fiat, Blight have been mistakeu for an islet. This, however, forms a part of the bank with which it is connected at its southmi point. No particular current was observed off the Rio Ouro, which consequently do« away with the supposition of a river emptying it'jclf by this opening. At the dis- tance of about 3 miles seaward from the mouth (^f thu inlet, the bottom is of sand and shells, with a depth varying from 9 to 16| fathoms. In the middle of its entrance it a circular breaker, 1 mile in diameter, on which there appears to be very little water. The northern point is wholly surrounded by breakers, but they are only a continua- tion of the surf which is found on the whole coast. The acyoining sea is well stocked with fish. From the southern point of the River Ouro, the coast trends nearly S.W. [iS'.S.ir.] The cliff continues to a distance of 5 leagues, when white sandy downs succeed, or which ih% summits ore mostly flat. At 1 league northward [N.N. W.'j from the extremity of tho cliffb, and at 3 miles from the coast, there is a bunk, having only 32 feet of water ; its direction is parallel to that of the coast, and it is about 2 niilcf* in length. Thirteen fathoms have been found on the edge of this bank ; to tho north- ward of it '^e bottom is sand and shells; to the southward, fine sand ; and on the bank itself, broke* shells. AHGRA DE CIKTRA, or CINTRA BAY.— At the distance of 3 leagues fron the southern extremity of the FiahermatCa Clifft, or the Cliffh of the Rio Ouro, amongst a number of even downs, there is one somewhat devated above the rent, extending parallel to the eoast. Ftom being flattened at its summit, and having iti southern extremity peaked, it becomes remarkable. It is situated at a short dintance from the beach, at tne head of a small bay, named Angro d» Cintrm. This bar v dheltered, on tho North, by a very low, sandy point, which, detaching itself from the coast, runs parallel to it, and a reef protects from its southern extremity, which msj be considered as a continuation of It. The break in the coast, between the nortlien and southern reefb, whinh forms the opening of this hay, may ba about 6 niksi hut, on donblinir the northern reef, the bay is found to extend afao«t 4 bIIm inside of the sandy poial which prefects it. BT. CYPBIAN BAY. .Si^^uJCl MY The depth of water in thia bay is not great ; at the distance of a mile indda it ii only 4^ fathoms, sandy bottom j bat the stillnesa which prevails in it attracts a gNa| number of fish, and it ibnns a harbour for the night to wo ftahingoTesseli of this ooast* It is to be observed, that besides the ree£i atretohing fnao. the mrth and South pointa of the bay, there is also a rock near the middle gf the entranoei whieb breakp ia blowing weather. All the coast firom the Bay i^ Olntra to the Bio Ouro is well stocked with flsh, and is ft«qaented by eighteen or twenty small vessels from the Canary Ishrndst which catch and salt nsh for the conBumption of those islands. Fresh water may be ob« tained by digging at the foot of the high down, or sand-hill, above mentionedi as ft place of observation. ' ^ It does not appear safe to attempt the channel into Cintra Bay, between thd point and the northern reef, as the breakers seem to be connected between them } but the entrance to the southward of this danger is quite safe. The least deptii found was 6 fliUioms, in the middle of the entrance. During the time of the rollers, as the sea breaks over this in 6 fathoms, vessels should pass either to the northward or south* ward, where they will find from 9 to 10 fathoms. The fishermen who fivquent this creek attract some few Arabs, or Moors, to the spot, who seem to have no fixed ha* bitation there, nor on any other part of the coast. These belong to the fourth tribe, who are dispersed in the desert, and called the " Tribe of Thieves," complete waa* derers and vagabonds. It is composed of the discontented of the tluree tribes already mentioned in page 503, and which are scattered along the coast from Cape Boiador to the Senegal ; they subsist exclusively on dried fish, and the plunder from wrecks, tphkh formerly were so frequent here. No advantage can be derived from any com- munication with iuese poor and miserable barbarians. In the Bay of Cintra, at 2 miles from the beach, are from to 16 fathoms of water \ the bottom of sand, sand and gravel, sand and shells, sand and mud, generally cover- ing siliceous or flinty rock, of the samo nature as Uie neighhouring coast. Toward the bottom of the bay the mud becomes thicker ; and here the anchor would sink down into a bed of greenish clay, which is excellent holding groimd. The Down of Cintra, according to M. Roussin, is in 23° 6' 20' N., and 16" 10' W. The magnetic variation on the same parallel, at 2 miles fix>m the shore, in February, 1817, was 19" 33' W. Anchorage may be found along the coast from Cintra Bay to the Bio Ouro : but the bottom, from being composed of siliceous rooks, must be unfavourable for holding. From Cintra Bay the coast trends S.S.W. J W. [S. 10" IF.] to a distance of 7 leagues ; the shore is low, but it gradually rises, and becomes a continued down •<{' white sand. At 3 leaguas to the southward of this bay, in the interior, may be v^ai four or five small insulated sandy downs, which are rather higher than the adjaceait ground, and, with the lower one, may serve as a mark for this coast. These heights •re called the Downs (^ Cintra, and they can be seen at the distance of 4 or leagues only. 8T. CTPBIAIT BAT. — Having run 6| leagues abng a moderately high coast, which prosentH alternately clifls and sandy bea^es, we arrive at an inlet, or bay, formed by rather a deep bend of the beach. The bottom of this bay is low, and the sea breaks violently on it. The eastern point of the bay is formed by a cliff, 160 feet high, having a circular fbrm toward the sea, with a flat top, and much resembliuf a fortification. The western sido is also formed by a steep ohtf, which, after extending 'ii miles in the westward, turns abruptly to the B.W., and forms Capo Barbas, in 22^ 18f N., and 16° 39' W. 'i he bay formed by the cape is that which bears tlu) name of **. Cyfritm,* xiio nny of Trihtmriort of H. Koussln. tNUMciNHHry, simI, UMic«Cbi«| improper. tint we consider a diangs tn the naais quiU M DESCRIP-flON OF THE COASTS, ETC. ■" The Bay of St. Cyprian, being open from N.S. to W.X. W. (^ri«),' is unsheltered from the prevailing wind on the coast. In consequence oi this there is generally a heavy sea in it ; and the anchorage, although on a bottom of sand and mud, in 10 to 20 fathoms, offers very little securi^, and should be resorted to only in casesr of neces- sity. The abxmdance of fieh in this bay frequently attracts the fishermen from the Canaries, who, seduced by the hope of being quickly laden, and the appearance of a fnoderate breeze, anchor too near the bottom of it. In thb situation, if the wind freshens up, being equally incapable of beating out with their crazy vessels, or with their ground-taclde of riding oat the heavy sea which sets in, they arc sure to dxive and be thrown up on the beach, where their crews frequently lose their property and lives; or, which is not less deplorable, are robbed and detained in slavery by the Arabs. Here the magnetic variation was observed to be 19" 28' W., in March, 1817. From Cape Babbas the coast trends nearly W.S.W. IS. W.'] 3 leagues. It ig formed almost by one uninterrupted cliff, about 80 feet high, at the foot of which the 6ea breaks violently. At 1 mile from the beach there ai'e from 9 to 12 fathoms; and at 2 miles, as much as 17 fathoms ; with a bottom of muddy sand, or sand and broken shells. The coast then declines into white sandy downs, studded here and there with oliffs. At about 3 leagues from this it forms i-ather a rem&rkable little bay, with a ^hore of white sand. The mo ith of tiiis bay is barred, at about 3 miles from itg bottom, by a flat of banks and r.^efs, on which there is very little water. These recfi serve as a foundation for an islet, called that of Pedra da Gall, and another small islet, which M. Boussin has named Virginia. These islets are merely -rocks, of a nature similar to that of the coast. The tii-st, which is rather higher on the noiihern than on the southern side, is about half a mile in circumference. The latter, or southern one, is thi'ce times that suse, and has some sandy patches. It is also 3,000 fathoms fi*om the coast, and about a league 8. bp W. {true) of Pedra da Gall. They are connected together by a chain of flats, which stretches 400 fathoms to the S.W., and !, 000 fathoms to the N.E. of Pedra da Gall. At 1 mile westward fromthess islets may be found 18 fathoms of water, with muddy sand. The depth increases to the soutiiward, and the bottom becomes harder. From Pedra da Gall to Cape Blanco the distance is 29^ leases. The coast in this extent is nearly straight, and moderately high ; its true direction is S. 15° W., and it presents only a few indentations of a trifling depth. It is one continued down, the whiteness :>t which becomes more vivid on approaching to the Southward. In some places it presenta peaked cliffs, in others there is a gentle descent toward the sea, and the whole is devoid of vegetation. - CAFE COjEIVOEIBO. — Having, says M. Roussin, in our wav from the north- ward, reached the parallel of 21° 50' N., after passing a sandy beacn of about 2 leagues in extent, with few indentations, we find ourselves abreast of a moderately high cliff, whose irregular sumrait forms a stiiking contrast with the uniform smoothness of the a^oinin^ coast. Ttis cliff is 5 mUes in length N.E. and S.W. [N.N.E. and S.S.W.], after which the dcnus again commence, having previously formed a small bay to the southward of the cliff. The most salient point of the cliff' is Cape Corvoeiho ; but it is not w«.'ii denned, and is only remarkable from the breaks in the breach where it ia aituatec- The strength of the current here is the same as on the whole coast, about ninc-tenihs of a mile per hour; but further out to sea it loses half that velocity. Between the islets and the coast, at the distance of half a mile from the latter, the depth is ffV m 6 to 9 fathoms, with a bottom of sand, sand and shells, or sand and roocB. At rhe distance of a mile from the coast it varies from 10 to 20 fathoms, with mud and sand. The muddy bottom prevails to the southward of Cape Corvoiero, and all this roast is perfectly safe. At 2d leagues to the northwaid of Cape Blanco we divcovered, from tne masthead, that the beach, along which we were running, was f >i-med by a tongue of sand from 2 to 3 miles in breadth, beyond which we obHcrved v/ator. This is now called Oreyhound Bay, and is situated to the castwoi'd of Cape Blanco. From Capo Corvoeiro the coast is formed of white and red sandy downs, assuming various shapes, ahcmately terminating at the water's edge in broken cliAa and low sandy beaches, on which there is a heavy surf. CAPS SLAJmCC* ia 20^ ^7' N. and 17° -if W., is the Bouihernmost face of a whiio ubsheltered ) generally a Lud, in 10 to ises of neces- len from the learance of a if the wind Bsels, or with sure to drive property and iavery by the ^arcb, 1817. aeues.^ It ig of "which the 'athoms; and d and broken id there with bay, with a miles from its These recfi another small Y -rocks, of a the northern 'he latter, or is also 3,000 Gall. They I to the S.W., rd from these L increaseB to i coast in this 5° W., and it led down, the rd. In some I the sea, and a the north- lout 2 leagues ly high cliff, tnnesB of the ind«.-S.JF.], ill bay to the EIRO; but it I where it is coast, about lat velocity. e latter, the or sand and ithoms, with >rvoiero, and Blanco we unning, was we observed eastward of I red sandy e in broken of a whiio CAI*E BLANCO. m cliff, about 160 feet high. It rik.v-8 vertically from a gentle slope which extends ftt)m its base to the sea. With a point 4 miles to the normward, it fomns a bay, at the bottom of which is a beach of white sand, interspersed with masses of the cliffii. llirough one of these masses the sea has purforated a hole, which, in shape, muclt resembles an arch. The anchorage in the bay, as well as on the whole soast i om Cape Cor^'oeiro, is good ; a bottom of muddy sand prevails throughout, wf Ji a d«ipth varying from 19 to 12 fathoms. At 1 mile to the southward there are 9 and 12 fathoms, and large vessels may anchor at this distance to the eastward, where they will be sheltered from the prevailing N.N.E. and N.W. winlLs. . The ]oortion of coast terminated by Cape Blanco is a long promontory, which, pro- jecting frois the main, forms writh it a bay of nearly 8 leagues frt)m North to South, iiTid aoout 6 broad. The bottom in this bay is generafly composed of soft mud,, and there is a depth of water vaiying from 40 to 17 feet, reduced to the lowest springs. On ike western side there is excellent anchorage for vessels of a middling class. la a radius of 8 nr' 10 miles round Cape Blanco, and in Greyhound Bay, the currents are subjected to regular tides. The flood sets E.N.E., and the ebb W.S.W.»: the greatest velocity of either being from 1 to 2 miles per horn- ; but it attains thia rate only when the wind blows with it. The- greatest rise above the level of the lowest tide is 10 feet, and it h. high water, on the second day after full and change, at Qh 15'.^ All this coast abounds ynth good fish, as cod, biuam, soles, &c. On the little beach eastward of Cape Blanco, a single haul of the seine has produced a thousand pounds' weight. The best kind of turtle, namely, the green kind, also abounds here- about. According to the information obtained from the Canarian fishermen, who frequent the coast, a small quantity of drinkable water may be obtained by digging a little to the northward of Cape Blanco. This spot is occasionally visited by some Arabs, who possess a few musketd, and against whom it is necessary to guard. Here the magnetic variation, in March, 1817, was 18° 9' W. In 1830, Captain (now Sir) Edward Belcher, in H.M.S. ./Etna, by the mean of several observations, assigned to the extremity of Capo Blanco lat. 20° 46' 26' N., long. 17° 4' 10" W. This gentleman has given a geological description of the ca^ and neighbouring country, which is insert^ in the " Journal of the Koyal Geographic Society fvol. ii. pp. 299 — 303), and in which he particularly notices the practice of the Cananan fishers, in the vicinity of Greyhound Bay ; the anchorage of these vessels, schooners, with their boats, is in a bay about 3 miles North from the cape, where they are quite sheltered from N.N.W. to S.S.E. Those of the fishermen whom Captain Belcher met with were courteous and communicative, and they stated that their usual fishing-ground is in 2d fathoms, where they take fish of from 8 to 60 pounds each, and that their average daily work is about 3 cwt. in the boats. The schooners have polacca loremosts ; and, when fishing, they f- 1 all the sails in one; their burden is from 100 to 150 tons. The fish token by i.c uEtna were porgy, mullet of several kinds, r.-^ck-cod, and red-snappers, probably called bream by former voyagers. Mussels and other shell-fish are very abundant at low water. The summit of the Blanco peninsula is composed of lines of sand hills and rocky eminences, just what one would expect to find if the sea were to quit its iw^-tition, and show us the beds over which it flov ■ ■ In every position, where a bush or rocky islet * " The tides aho*>t Cape Blanco are irregular, and much influenced by the i^- I near which they run. Uigh water, at full and ohauge, may be looked for about noon ; the KTP"*' "»t rise, under every advantage of springs and winds, does not exceed 6 feet. South- ward of the parallel of the cape the indraught has a velocity of 26 miles, and the ofliiet i ' ebb tlio same. Eastward of the meridian of the cape the tide bends northerly, and at 3 miles chord its velocity appears from 8.W. to N,E., about 1^, following the circular course into Greyhound Bay. North of tlio parallel of the cape the ebb sots North, and flood (lioiith; and, dose inshcro, the tide is conHidorahly wcnko: than at 3 miles, wiivre iiii greatest iuttueuoe may be expected."— CVjy^aiM Jieieker. »10 DESCBIPTION OF THB COASTS, ETC. ia promutent, there, or its southern side, you will surely And its sand hill — a proof of the prevalent winds, m well as an admirable model of the formation of shoals, &o., ijiti re r water, and pointing out raost perfectly the "steep-to" approaches to bankis, '■u-i which rapid streams < : currents flow, with their concomitant shallow tail, formed ay jead water or eddies. the vhole fsai' intions, and of eome ■m-e mon than 60 With the ezeeptioc of these newly-tbrmed and tonriug Hacd-hi^ls, t fcee is cohered, in a rwt;i extraordmary manner, with ohclt^, 'ix and uorth-easteriy winds tb.e whole year. In June and ^-jiy tbf^ \fi.i^ Noith. W.Xe., and N.E. Highest temywrature oi air ii the E'lRde, 75° -* of the water, 18°. . BANK of ABOUIBi (^-c. — ^ThtBonk of Aigiiin conzmences at 4 leagues tutlie southward of Cape Blanco It is a .iprc ** shelf oi about 30 leagues in length, and reaches to the southward of C&pe Miirk. liie North point of -t is m lat. ?0' 3o 12' N., long. 10° 66' 30" W. The coast between this print an'il Cape Blci) jo sb repkce with shcmla. The most considerable one is thro cf tiio liityadere, at I 6~10tk miles to tka southward cf thf «ape. Theic are only 20 feet oi' wate/ oa thlB ^hoal, and it ocea- HioBally breaks. iVnother lies W. } N. [ fP. 6y S.j :s tniies from tL.^ ape 5 auda thiid at 8 iiJLiHi> S-S.E. ; E. iS.E.'X of it ; on which, liie tiie flrei, 20 feet of water have be4?R tviUid. The channel, leading to the anchorage, eastward of Cape Blanco, lies to the Tii'^'ivsrarJ cf tJieee iito&ls. llie Burui '•; i-'Timn i6 a flat of sand, constantly increasing, of the same nature ai tlic coant. '*'!'3 boiiv of it is hard, and covered with broken sheUs. Its outer edee, It'iaiihhiiis h'itn tracet; firom numerous soundings, has been flzed at the depth 018 MtiC'ms, ai. no vessel can run within this limit without risk ; and, at a very short distaaoi^ to the eastward of this boundarv, there arc less than 4 fathoms. No par- ticalar part un the edge of this bank has been »o:jn quite dry; but close to the breakers, which occur in maay places, there are not more than 10 feet of water ; and tlie shallows between them do not appear to have more. }?etween the North point of the bank and its western extremity, situated in 20' i:' 20' N., and 17° 7 30" W., on advancing from seaward, the soundings pro- gr68»ively decrease. At 10 leagues to the westward, from 40 &thoms they decrease to 8, with a very gentle ascent ; but to the southward of this parallel the bottom be- oumss more uneven ; £'Jid frnm the point where the Medusa was lost (see page 503), in lat. 19° 03' 42', lon^'. 17° 0' 35', a great irregularity takes place. From the wcstemmoeit extremity, the edge uf the bank trends S.S.E. [8.E. i S.] and extends as fur as Cape Mirik. The nature of the ground about the Bank of Arguin has a veiy remarkable characteristic, which may prove of great service to navigators. From the depth of 8 fathoms, which has been assigned as the limits of thisban'k, to that of 25, to soaward, including an extent of a . ^lan 5 leagues, the lead invariably brings up a mixture of sand and broken shells \ an4, in proportion to thn proximity of the bank, the latter prevail. Beyond the depth of 25 f»< :hom8,ag far iiB that of 45 and 50, at 8 or 10 leagues to seawai'd, the oottom is entirely of white sand. Henof; it is evident, thet oy soundings, and a rough observation for latitude, the distance from the Bank of Arguin may always be known. Should leai than 25 fathoms be found, with a bottom ''^ conolasive. It ii> . : )d of a whitish rook, coverer* - ': f«et. TheHout;^ ises to about 30 feet. Tfa. -i^n^u mvil\ cMiwtio shrub, but it hss exosUsnt water, tl'.oop v nra diffloult to find, but are important. Ths Trmairrr -. « • .. 1 '■■■■ "t lof the crew of the brig /iM mouth of a bay to the t is about 8 miles m>m the To the seaward there is » > t the evident t^ipaars to be .ifting sands to the depth of i produces no wood, and oa'; milky appearanoe. Tho welli 'inuia wap about W. BANK or ARGUm, ETC. *ll th*n 6 leafttM te«m iti «dg« } and m pvopoition as ahaUa predominate in tiie floand-^ ings, you will b« nearer to it, and dioald avoid getting to tne eastward. Bkould you have more ttiati 25 fethoms, wit> line sand, you will oe- more than 5 leagfaes from it. To the northward of the parallri of 20° N., this may he partioidarly depended on ; to the southward of that limit, i^ is subject to some exceptions ; hut as the hank then takes a direction S.S.E. [S.K ^ S."], it becomes no long«* dangerous, if a ship is keut on a wind in 20 to 25 fatuums, and sounds frequent.y. Henceforth we may ooncluae (which all mariners must be convinced of), that a strict atteintion to incessant sound- ing is so indispensable as to need no fnrther recommendatiot^ CURRENTS. — ^It has been already shown, in page 282, that the prevailingf currents set firom North to South along the whole coast. Along the edge of the Bank of Argnin, as far as its western extremity, this direction is constant ; and in the rainy season, should any deviaticm be exjpenenced, it may be relied that point of the coast which terminates the Bay of Arguin on th« South, being a very low sandy point, on which there is a small down.* It is snr^ roonded by the southern part of the Bank of Argxiin, and cannot be approached by large vessels, on the West, within 3 leagues, and on the S.W. within 2. The magnetic variation, at the southern anchorage, in April, 1817> was found to be 18' 49' W. Tanit Bay.— The coast from Cape Mink tends S.S.E. i E. IS.E."] 10 kagoes, it then forms a complete elbow, gradually trending S. f W. f'S'. iy 2?.] It is low, and presents a continued chain of small r^ular downs, composed of white sand, and inter- spenied with small bushes. To the northwai d of the bay, formed by the bend of the eoost, some downs may be observed which are rather higher and more insulated thaa the rest. A few huts are seen near the beach, and in the dry season numerous parties »\ falls into a uniform line of sand, with ooca«ionally a bush liOi.--:* f i''! •'.|".'r-.\ ji-car^ciy above ih« level of the sea. .' .!^£L Bank. — No v.\rt of this coast, southward firom Cape Mirik, should be ap- : ./ached within 5 mikt^, nor to a Ic^s depth than 6| fathoms. By attending to this A ale, all dangers Till be avoided, ant' amongst otborc a shoal 'v^hich extends outward, d miles from the coasts, abreast of tLc northcra part of lac Angel Hillocks, from whiok • Captain Owen gives this Hown in 19"" 96' N., and 16° 34' "W. 9- 2-2' W N., and 16* 81' 31" TV. Barcu MoUoBin as an DESCRIPTION OF THE COASTS, ETC. it derives its name. On this bank there are regular soundings on a bottom of sand, >rith sand and broken shells, afford^g anchorage in caae of necessity. On receding ^m the beach, the dspth increases ; and, at the same distance from it, is greater than to the northward of the hillocks. POETAiroiC. — At 4 leagues to the southward of the Angel Hillocks, on rather an elevated part of the coast, and a little within the beach, are two palms trees, with- out branches, standing close together. The northernmost is the smaller of the two, and they are the only palms to be seen on the coast between this and Cape Boiador, They stand in lat. 18° 18' .'i4" N., long. 16' 2' 12" W., and Portandic is supposed to have existed at about 1 mile to the southward of this spot. Not a vestige now remains saffioient even to indicate to strangers the spot on which this little establishment once stood. But since the survey it has been ceded to France, and a fort is mentioned. From the two palm trees, the coast trends nearly S.S.W. [South], then to S.W. Z^'S. W.'] It is straight and low, interspersed with small bushes, and present:) a continued sameness. In an extent of 35 leagues there are only two downs of red «and, covered with brushwood, and discernible only at about 2 miles from the beach. One is in lat. 17° 25' N., the other in 16° 55' N. From the mast-head some sheets of water at the foot ot these downs may be seen. At 2 leagues to the southward of the latter, the interior of the country becomes a little clothed with brushwood, and occasionally presents some level plains, but the coast remains uniformly barren. GUM TRADE.— The Dutch have the credit of being the first who introduced the Oum Arabic, commonly called Gum Senegal, into Europe, in the early part of the 17th centiuy, when they carried on the fishery in the Bay of Arguin. The French merchants of Bordeaux and Nantes first brought it, however, into general repute, and decided its purity and superiority to the gums of the East. From 1760 to 1779, Englemd possessed the Se 'egal, and the ti'ade for the ^um ; and by the Treatv of Versailles, 1763, reser^red to nerself the exclusive posiiession of this commerce, which she protected and maLitained. The English demolished the forts and establishments at Portandic and Arg'iin, which had been fjrmed in 1724 by the old India Company of France, in order to bring the whole of the gum of the African forests into the River Senegal. In 1779, the French obtained re-possession of the Senegal ; but, by the Treaty of 1783, it was agi'eed that the English should have the liberty of carrying on the gum trade from the mouth of the Hiver St. John (3 leagues north-eastward of Cape Mirik) to the Bay and Port of Portandic, inclusively ; provided that they should not form any permanent settlement, of what nature soever, in tbe River St. John, or the Bay of Portandic. The treaty is still in force, as no alteration of it was made by the Treaty of 1814 ; which merely stipulated the eu .^agement of the English government to restore to France, in ftilT ri^ht and sovevjignty, the possession of enegal and Goree. The transfer took place m 1816, when the English withdrew to their other settlements on the coast ; leaving the gum trade entirely in the hands of the merchants of Seneppal, although they possessed an indisputable right to the trade firom the Bay of Arguu to the Bay and! Port of Portandic. -«, ,. ,i ,. At the commencement of the year 1821, the British merchants of the Gambia ob- tained the support and assistance of the local government, in the attempt to renew the ^^um trade at Portandic, and revive that friendship and good will which formerly subsisted between them and the Moors in Senegal. Commodore Sir George Collier was solicited to order a vessel of war for the protection of the trade, and to convey presents to the chiefs of the Trazzarh or Tarassa Moors ; and; for this purpose his Majesty's gun-brig Snapper, commanded by Lieutenant T. Evans, was selected, and proceeded on his important service. The trade afterwards revived, and was going on with the Moors in 1834, when it was unjustly interrupted by the government of Senegal. The piEiriicuIars of this interruption, were given in evidence before the House of Commons in 1842, by G. C. Redman, Esq.* But tliesc matters have been * Parliamentary Report, West Coast of Africa, Part I., py. 176,. 177, 183. THE RIVEE SENEGAL. fi^ ■djusted by the cession of the territory to the Frenchi we taking mb an equivalent their factory of Albreda on the Gambia.* PORTANDIC TO THE RIVER SENEGAL.— On the ^raUel of 16' 35' 24', am} at the termination of the 35 leagues of coast already described, we arrive at the huts of In^uiagher, or the spot called by the French the Mariffot or Lagoon of Mo»quUo$. lliis m the rainy season forma a mouth of the River Senegal, the banks of which are covered with mang^ves. At the distance of 2 or 3 miles tcora. the beach regular soundings may be found, in ttom 7 to 13 fathoms, fine sand, occasionally mixed with mud, and afiPording safe anchorage between this aild the palms of Portandic. To the southward the depth gradually increases. The Marigot of Moaquitoa is about 12 leagues to the northward of the Isle St. Louis, in the Senegal ; and it communicates with the sea only when the rains have swollen the river. It then covers the bank at its entrance, which may be passed over by boats ; but they must 'be prepared against the surf which is common to it, as well as the entrance of the Senegal. To the southward of this Marigot, the river is sepa- rated from the ocean by a straight tongue of sand, formed by small white downs, nearly bare, and gradually becoming ijwer toward the extremity. Within this tongue of sand, the stream of me Senegal washes a number of small islands which lie parallel to the coast, and on which a covering of thick bushes gives the country some appearance of fertility. They are known by the name of the Antehpe Islands, Oriel Wood Island, and Thiong Islands. The last is at a very short distance to the north- ward of the Isle of St. Louis. Griel Wood Island is distinguished by its bushes, among which are some trees higher than t^ie rest, presenting a remarkable contrast to the barren desert of 200 leagues, which precedes it. Its distance from the Isle of St. Louis, in a straight line, is not more than 5| leagues. Both to the northward and southward of Griel Wood Isle, the stream of the river may be distinctly seen from the mast-head, running be- tween the isle and the beach ; and it is the surest mark for discovering the landing- place to the northward of the bar. A vessel may run along the coast, at the distance of 2 miles from the ^eaoh, in from 9 to 14 fathoms, over an excellent bottom of thick green mud. SEHEOAL. — On continuing your route to the southward, the French • v. lish- . raent of St. Louis, in the Senegal, will soon be seen. This place is remarkable for its white buildings, and a very high palm tree, which stands conspicuously close before the flag of the fort. The latter is in lat. 16° 0' 48" N., and long. IB" 31' 1 " W. The westei-n bank of the Senegal is so narrow and low, abreast of the northern part of this island, that the town appeara to stand on the sea-shore; and it is only on nearing it, that the channel which separates them can be seer , A little Moorish town, called Ouet n'dar or Oattandar, consisting of huts on a sand hill, stands upon the strand, opposite the town of St. Louis. It was built by the negroes engaged to open the communication in canoes with vessels arriving, and checks the sands, which are constantly in motion. On the S.W. part of the Island of St. Louis is a down, on which cannon are placed. From Gattandar. '\ '■ -ance of the bar of the Senegal is only 2 leagues. The anchorage off the moi ■. .he river may be taken in 7 to 14 fathoms, according to circumstanocR. The depth «xtands front 2 to 4 miles from the bar. The mouth of the Senegal presents nothing remarkable when seen from the north- ward. The breakers whicn prevail on the wnole coast as far as I'oint Barhary, the northern point of the entrance, prevent those on the bar from being distinguished i and vessels may run pas without seeing them, if they keep at too great a distance from the shore. From Gattandar you may run at the distance of a mile from the • By a ! jnvention, signed March 7th, 1867, the Quoen of England relinquiahes her rights to trade between the mouth of the River St. John to the Bay and Fort of Portandio inclusively, and in return the French Emperor cedes the Factory, or Compwif , of Ainreda, on the North Bank of the Gambia, with all rights belonging thereto. 3 r 614 DESCRIPTION OF THE COASTS, ETC. beach without danger ; which will enable you to observe the smallest alteration in the coast. A smallpost in the centre of the river, abreast of the EngUah Islet, where there is a signal-post, and a guard-house on Bahague Island, at a short distance to the eastward of the bar, will then be passed in succession. This guard-house is a remarkable small square house, near which there is a p^'^ond signal-sta£P ; and a vessel may anchor wnen this guard-house bears E. h S. \_E. by N7\ As the winds generally blow from the northward, in consequence of the facility for communication yith the shore, it 'r>, \ .'Tiuarb to anchor rather to the northward than to the sontii- ward of the bar. 7^e Bar (/ Ser.i,(, W indS.E. ; and are frequently so strong a.s to luako the vessels t-snd at the uK'shora^ ■, or at least to lay with their broadsides to the wind, in the strongest breezi a. This anchorage is rendered very inconvenient by the short sea which is always upon it. The preceding descriptions are chiefly those of the Baron Roissin. The following, from our former edition, may also be acceptable. ' From Santa Ch'uz, Tenerife, to the River Senegal, the true and safe course is S.S.W. THE MVER SENEGAL. OlS to lat. 18° 30', before a ship hauls I ae eastward. This is in order to avoid being set hy tilt' current too far to the i astw ard, or on the banks of Arguin, &c. From the above-mentioned latitude haul to the south-eastward, so as to make the land in about 16° 15', M en you will probably see th« trees already noticed, which are the most remarkable on this coast. If standing in for the land bv night, heave a cast of the lead everv hour, as yon faU into soundings all at once, 50 jathoms close to the edge of the bank, at the distance shown the chart, or about 8 leagues from shore, and thence shoaling to 8 fisithoms at 1| miles from it. The bar of the Senegal is most easily passed in the moaths of July, August, Sep- t«nber, and October ; out it is very rarely quite calm. On the contrary, the siea fV^- quently breaks against it violently. The waves, which strike against, it, are always united in threes, or leashes. For example, when the sea is but slightly agitated, one may perceive three waves, perfectly distinct, approach and break against the bar, immediately after each other ; and these three waves [^pear to be, as it wei-e, con-' nected ; for there is often a considerable interval of time between tiie attack of the first threa waves and the approach of the succeeding trio. During the prevalence of jroiigh weather, this series of assault by united waves incessantly prevails ; but then these attacks follow each other so rapidly that the time between them is no longn- perceptible. The sailors call the interval between the two assaults, when tolerably iig, a set-off, because then the bar experiences a slight degree of rest, during which time it may often be passed ; but frequently the violence of the waves Li so great, and squalls succeed each other so rapidly, that there is no longer any interval between them ; and, consequently no set-off. On passing by sea within cannon-shot of the Isle of Senegal, it affords a very agree-, able prospect. Fort St. Louis forms the principal object in this perspective. To its right and left extend the two parts of the town, the streets of which are well arranged ; and, in general, composed of thatched cottages or huts, interspersed with some iitoiko houses, covered, according to the custom of this part of Africa, with flat roof^. Tlie woods which line the East bank of the river appear, at this distance, to belong: to the isle, and give it a cheerful and rural aspect ; but this allusion disappears on & nearer approach ; for no place can be more arid, paixshed, or deprived of vegetationt than the Isle of St. Louis, the soil of which is nothing but a fine shifting sand. Notr withstanding this, the population amounts to about 5,000 persons. The water of the i» I ) < iuh and un vvholesome. W .>DS.- The winds are not at all dangerous in the navigation of the coasts of the Seuegal. They blow nearly along the coast from the N.E. and N.W.; during the greater part of the year ; and as, in the rainy season, the squalls always come from the S.E., and the winds which succeed them are very weak, when thejr once pass the S.W. quarter, getting under way is always easy. Those vessels in the road which cannot depend on their g^ound-taokle, may rctur.i to it when the squall is over. SENEGAL TO CAPE VERDE.— If a straight line were drawn from the an- chorage at the bar of the Senegal to the outer rocks of the Alinadies, on the westeni point of Cape Verdo, its direction would be nearly S.W. by W. \_S. 40° W.\ and itf length 31 leagues. The arc described by the intervening coast, and Hubtcnded by this chord, bends so little, that it would not exceed the vrhole length by mpre than 4 leagues, and its greatest depth would be 13 miles. The coast, as far as 2 or 3 leagues to the southward of the Senegal, is just as lo^ as that to the northward, and resembles it very much ; it afterward becomes rather higher, but is uniform in general appearance. It is composed of a chain of white sandy downs, scattered over with bniahwood, amongst which a small cluster of trees may be distinguished. It generally presents two well-defined plans. The first is that next to the sea, foimcd of white sandy downs, on which there appears some h \s. "nriMislprilhlv h.uheF than ■.■■« nrnt,. nninin(>nr<'>a ii^uhoiif verdure. The second, which lionsiUerabiy higher than we nrsi, commences ut about 916 DESCRIPTION OF THE COASTS, IiTC< 2 miles iii the interior, and is fonned liy downs of a greyiel « o onr, which are covered with bushes. In running for the Senegal, from the southward, the mouth of the river is more easily distiaguished than when approaching from the northward, from its appearing more open. At the distance of 8 leagues from the mouth, and on the parallel of 16" 26' r]'., a large red sandy down may be observed, entirely bare, which, to thoae ignorant of their latitude, may serve to indicate their distance to the southward of the bar. From this down, southward, the coast presents nothing remarkable as fiur as the Little Papa, of which the northern is in latitude 14° 56' 24" N., and longitude HM'SOW. The Litth Papa are the two highest downs between the Senegal and the Papt of Cape Verde. They are situated on tiie beach, and are easily known by a slight un- dulation of their summit, and three or four other small hills adjoining them to the southward. They are visible at tiie distance of 4 or 5 leagues. The Bay of To/ commences from this point. ITie Little Paps bear E.N.E. f E. [i\r. 69'. E.} from those on Cape Verde, at the distance of 9 leagues. When running this distance, in fine, clear weather, both an frequently seen at once. The latter may be seen at the distance of 7 or 8 leagues. From about 8 leagues to the eastward of Cape Verde, the coast lises very much, and becomes more wooded. The country about the cape is covered with trees, amongst which there are several of remarkable height. All this cuast may be approached within a very short distance. Within 2 miles to the uoi-thward of tne Adlluge of Yof, situated near on islet of that name, there are 65 fathoms of water on a bottom of mud and saud. CAPE VESDE is the westernmost point of Africa ; it is the extremity of a peninsula formed on the North by the Bay of Yof, and on the South bv the bay iu which the Isle of Ooree is situated, and is composed of moderately hign land. To the westward, as far as the two paps of Cape Verde, as aforesaid, it becomes higher, and on the southern side of these two paps, the coast next the sea becomes nearly perpendicular. This point is usually taken for Cape Verde ; it is not the western- most part of the peninsula, but it is the highest. Its lat. is 14" 44' 30", and long, 17° 32' 0". Cape Verde, as seen from the northwai'd, terminates in very low land, on which are some imconnectcd hillc^ks, which, at a distance, may be taken for islets. The extreme point extends 1,000 fathoms still fiu-ther East, in a flat of blackish rocks, awash with the water's edge, and which, in two or three places, rise from 8 to 10 feet abovethe level of the sea. This rocky flat is called the Almadies, and the point which joins it, Almadia Point. The sea on the Almadies breaks incessantly. Amongst the rocks are some smooth spots appearing like channels fit for boats. The flat may be coasted at the distance of a mue, there being, on the West, 35 fathoms of water ; the bottom is of broken shells. Hence to the northward, in an extent of 3 miles, the depth increases to 80 fathoms, bottom of mud and sand. To the S.E. the depth is not so much ; in running along these breakers and the coast, to a distance of 2 miles in that direction, which will extend to the meridian of the paps, the depth varies from 26 to 39 fathoms, the bottom, sand and shells, or sand and rock. The depth then continues to decrease to the E.S.E. The highest and westernmost rock of the Almadies, which appears from a distance in the shape of a die, is in lat. 14° 44' 29", and long. 17° 33' 29", as shown in the Table, p. 34. CURRENTS. — The prevailing currents between the Senegal and Cape Verde follow the direction of the coast, in the same manner as those to the northward ; and the idea of a current setting violently into the Bay of Yof, as formerly represented, is altogether false. The sea on this part of the coast is not particularly heavy nor dangerous ; the smallest coasters of the Senegal and Goree expose themselves to it with impunity every day. Southward from the Senegal as far as the parallel of 15" 20', including an extent of more than 12 leagues, at 2 or 3 miles from the coast, the bottom is excellent, being of pare mud, with a depth vailing from 12 to 30 fathoms. From this parallel, to the GOREE. filT irer is more aoathward, doubtless the depth increa8e8.conBiderably. At 2 leagues to the westward of the Little Paps, for instance, there are from 64 to 70 fathoms of water. The muddy bottom continues here, and is so soft that the lead sinks deep into it, and the anchor alone would hold any vessel obliged to come to in consequence of calm. It is< only in these cases that anchoring becomes necedsary ; if there is wind from either quarter, the formation of the coast will always allow a favourable board to any vessel well found and well managed. »•< CAPE YERDE to OOREE.— From Almadia Point to Cape Manoel the coast trends S.S.E. } £. ^S.E.} in a distance of about 3 leagues. In this extent it is high, covered with trees, and generally terminates at the sea-side in basaltic cliffs or sandy rocks. In some places only the cliff slopes toward the interior, and forms small bay» witib beaches of white sand. At 2,000 fathoms N.W. by W. | W. [ W. by N.') off Cape Manoel and at half that distance from the coast, there is a group of rocky islets, called the Magdalen lalea, of which there are two principal ones. They are perfectly baiTen ; even the largest, in the crevices of which were formerly some haobaba* is nothing but a bare rock of a red^sh colour mixed with basalt, and perfectly destitute of any vegetation. The shape of this islet is that of a crescent open to tne westward, and its gi-eatest extent is nearly North and South. On the North side it has a gap, forming a very small crctk, which aftbrds a landing. The other rocks ai'e to the south-eastward of the principal islet, separated by a space of 1,000 fathoms, in which there is a depth of from 4 to 6 fathoms. The sea breaks with violence on all these rocks. The space between the Magdalen Islands and the main seems to offer a safe channel ; but it should not be attempted by a stranger. In coasting the shore from the Alma- dies to the Magdalen Islands, the soundings vary from 34 to 19 fathoms. These islands may be approached on the southern side within 100 fathoms. Cape Manoel is high, formed of columns of basalt, and covered with very thick brushwood ; at the distance of a pistol-shot from it, to the southward, there is a depth of 8 fathoms; and at 100 fathoms to the north-westward of its extreme point, close to the beach, is a small insulated rock. In doubling Cape Manoel, the extensive bay is opened, which is formed by this cape and Capal^^c, which may be called the Bay of Goree. At the distance of 2,100 fathoms from Cape Manoel, E. | N. [N. 66° J5.] lies the Island Goree ; and a vessel intending to anchor must steer for it, and may approach on the South side within two musket shots. OOBEE.— BAY of OOREE.— The Island of Ooree with the Senegal fell into the hands of the British in 1809. By the treaty of Paris they were restored to the French in 1816. As far as regard^ climate, they are more favourably situated than any of our settlements on the coast. .The adjoining coimtry is iimabited by the Jaloff nation. It is the seat of a flourishing trade. The French Govea-nment attach much impoitonce to its maintenance, and have expended large sums on its military defences.t ,; ,,, ,^ 'v.i , -, r , ",:' Ooree Isle is merely a rock, about 400 fathoms in its greatest length, from N. | E. to S. i W. [AT. by Jr. to iS. by £.J, and 167 fathoms in bieath. It is a volcanic pro- duction, conoposed of basalt and sand, of the same description as the Magdalen Islands and Cape Manoel, from which it seems to have been separated. The southern part, which is about 500 feet above the level of the sea, is the highest, and like a round mountain, may be seen at the distance of 5 or 6 leagues. The rest of the island is very low, and the North point is distinguished only by its batteries and private buildmgs. A fixed light is shown from the fort. The landing-place'is on the N.E. • The baobab (or Adanaonia) is a species of very large tree, of a fine green colour, but which does not keep its verdure all tlie year round. From the trees of mis sort on Cape, Verde that cape derived its name. t Dr. Madden, Parliamentary Report, 1842, Part I., p. 206, and Part II., p. 508. 518 DESCRIPTION OF THE COASTS, ETC. side of the island, between the point and th^ hack of the mountain, to the south- ward, iu a small sandy bay.* Goree contributes nothing toward either the subHistence or comfort of its inhabit- ants. Its two springs, situated at the foot of a rock, on its southern part, hardly suffice for the consumption of two families, and the inhabitants are therefore obliged to get their supplies of water, wood, and all kinds of food, from the main. 2%c roodktead is to the N.E. of the island. This roadstead, which is sheltered from all winds from S.S.W. to E.N.E. (by the North), is perfectly safe during eight months of the year ; that is, from the 1st of November to the 1st of July ; but dur- ing the rainy season, the squalls from the S.E. are dangerous. The best anchorage f jr large vessels, in either season, is at the distance of 800 fathoms from the landing- ing-place, with Cape Manocl bearing W.S.W. \ W. [S. 52° IV.'\, a sail's breadUi Qpen of the North point of the island. At this spot there is a bottom of thick clayish mud, with a depth of 12| fathoms, and it is convenient to weigh from, with the wind from any quarter. - To fetch the anchoraffe tram Ca'pe Verde, in the fine season, when the winds are from N.E. to N.W., it is necessary to nm close by Capo Manoel and the South point of Goree ; keeping by the wind on the port tack, and sounding until in 8 or 10 fathoms. When within a mile of the land, tack and beat up to the anchorage. The above position assigned for the anchorage of this island possesses one very great advantage in the tornado season; which is, that ic the gruund-tackle cannot s depended on, a vessel may run before the squall and even he sheltered for a short time. For this purpose it will be necessary to veer to the end of the cable before tho squall comes on, as its violence may not allow of a vessel being managed with tho expertness requisite on such an occasion. She should then steer so as to round the North point or the island at a convenient distance, and when to the westward of this point, whatever may be the violence of the squall (which is always from the S.E.), the island will afford sufficient shelter to enable her to keep on the port tack until abreast of the South point. Having reached thus far, she will be in a favourable position for doubling Cape Manoel, as by bringing it to bear W. f S. ['ing in it from 5 to 13 fathoms of water, and the shores may be approacUcd within the distance of 200 fathoms. A vessel intending to remain any time at the anchorage should moor N.E. and S.W., as the two cables will then bear an equal strain in the heaviest of the squalls. Magnetic variation, in June, 1817, 17" 30' W.} 1861, 18" IG W. The Watering-place at Ooree, and the Retourcea which this Anchoraae ofers.— The watering-place of Goree, used by vessels which frequent this island, u aoout 3,000 fathoms N.N.W. of the anchorage. It consists of several pits dug in the sand on the sea-side, ncnr a marsh, and close to a negro village called ffan. The water is neither agreeable nor wholesome, and should not be drunk until it has been filtered, acidulated, or cleansed by red hot shot being put into it. The cove in which it is situate is exceedingly well stocked with fish, and hauling tho nrine will be attended witii succi>Hs, by any number of vessels touching hero. Fire-wood is purchancd from the negroes or Dacar, a little more to the West, at the rate of about twenty shillings the cord. Ballast may be procured at the foot of the point of that name. Small bullocks may be purchusea from the neighbouring coast, for six or eight dollars each. Tho whole coast, from Cape Manoel to Capo Nu^o, which forms Goree Bay, may be run along nt the diotanco of 2 miles. One bank only lies at 800 fathoms E.S.E. \ K. [J?. 3° Jv.] from Capo Bolair,t having soundings which vary ttoxa 16 feet to 12 * Mr. Finlaison has said that shipfi sailing from the Capo Vorde Tsluuds, and bound to Ooroo, will Htriko Rotiiidiiign in 60 fathoms, flmi Hand, at 80 mikmofT. — Eu. t Thio in, wo prusumfl, ino Ca^ • Bernard of tho form-jr cb ' ' " Ouroe.— El). hing to the northward of ^■v, , -■ mH-MA^.i^ GOREE. ;n?;i.'U' \.^-^ fathoms, with a bottom of muddy sand, or sand and shells, as far as the parallel of Cape Naze. From the Bat of Han, northward of Ooree, the coast rises a little at some miles in the interior, bat it is exceedingly low at the sea-side, where it presents nothing but a white sandy strand. We again perceive the little downs, the chain of which joins the paps of Cape Verde, and which we ran along in going round the Bay of Yof. These uown^' rise progressively to the south-eastward, and are covered with trees as &r as Cape Naze. The Naze Cape is terminated by cliffs of about 200 fathoms in height, the woody summit of which may be seen, in fine weather, at a distance of 7 or 8 leagues. In running along the coast toward Cape Naze, we pass successively several negro villages of the kingdoms of Cayo and Baol, belonging to Darnel. The most considerable of these villages is Rufisk, on the eastern side of Ooree Bay ; then follow the anchorages of Barnier, Red Cape, Yongop, &c., all of which points aro frequented by coasters from Goree, who trade for stock ; they offer nothing interest- ing. The highest part of Cape Naze is in lat. 14' 31' 30 N., and long. 17^7' 25' W. -^Roussin.) There are some rocks, westward of Rufisk, stretching about a gun-shot into the sea, which may be avoided by keeping half a mile from the shore. To the West and W.N.W. of Cape Naze is good anchorage, in 4 or 5 fathoms, fine sand ; but to the South and S.W. of the cape the bottom, generally, is not good. In the night time, you must proceed in 17 fathoms, ha^'ing sometimes recourse to the lead ; the land, even in the night, will direct you sufficiently to avoid the rocks. In the season of the tornadoes the road of Rufisk is not good ; but in the summer, you may safely lie there in 6 or 7 fathoms, close to the shore, if agreeable. About 3J miles S.E. of the Red Cape lies Cape Naze, with a araall bay botwecr ; from the latter the coast extends to the S.E. j o. [^S.K | £.1 about 4i leagues, as far as Portudal, formerly a French factory ; and then 6 leagues S. by E. \ E. [S.S.E. I E."] to Cape Serene : between this cape and Portudal, 2 leogues off the coast, and parallel to it, lies Amboroo Rank, on the South tail of which you find only 1| fathoms. Ships that come from the westward must be cautious of this shoal ; the ground is very hard upon it, and close to it is a depth of 5 fathoms. To the S.E. of Cape Naze the land declines in height, and the downs are partially .covered with bushes. The point near a little river, the Soman, is thus covered, and the country hereabout appears to be clothed with trees. Portudal consists of a number of huts on the shove. Tlic coasters of Goree fr< - quent this place. All the coast in the vicinity abounds in trees ; and at 3 miles to the Boutliward of the village is a small wood, very remarkable from its trees being much higher than the rest, and which, therefore serve as a mark for the coast.* The Road of Portudal is far from being good, and is fit for small vessels only ; they lie close to the shore, athwart of the little houses between the clifi's. All the coatt near Portudal is bordered with rocks, and must not be approuclied too near. Joal.— Three leagues S. by E. J E. IR.S.K * H.} from Cape Serene lies Joal or YoAL, standing on the Ncrth bank of a river of the same name, from which a shoal, with only 2 J mthonis of water upon it, projects into the sea. The Road of Joal is not much better than those we have just mentioned ; the entrance of the river, be- tween Joal Point and the point to the South of it, which they called Palmarin Point, is 3 miles broad, with a depth of 3 fathoms of water in mid-cnannel. Colonel L. S. O'Connor, C.B., governor of the Gambia, paid a visit to the King of Bur Sin, at his sea-port of Jool, in January, 18i50. His object was to enter into a • A more partioular detiiU of this coast, and of all tbo shore between Cupo Najio and ("!apo Roxo, by M. Le Prcdour (extractod fVom tlio Annaks Maritintet), wivs publiwhod nt l'urin in 1828. To the description is aiini^xoii a. copiotiH titble of tho ixtaitions of plaeos, as doterinintxi in 182fi and 1827, on bosrJ the friffnte In Fwrr nnd gooic. i La Itorade, undor tho orders of CRptnin Ma»»itH dt Cltrva!, which may be udvdutHgoously oompiirud with more recent obaorvatiouR. A29 DESCRIPTION OF THE COAS "S, ETC. treaty for the protection of vessels and persons wrecked on these shores, which vm carried out, and therefore some appeal may be made hereafter to that treaty should misfortune render it necessary. From Palmarin Point to the northernmost of the Birda^ Islands the coast extends S. by E. {_S.S.E. h i?.] 8 leagues ; and, from the mouth of the Salum River, which lies 4 leagues south-eastward of the point, to the Birds' Islands, the shore is bordered •with a sand, named the Sed Bank, that stretches 4 miles into the sea, and close to which are 4 fathoms of water. The Birds' Islands, four in number, and very small, lie on this bank. The Salnm River is navigable for 90 miles, and vessels of 250 to 300 tons can alwa^^s ascend it easily to Khaolah ; the last and principal trading port, and to which the tide extends. The bottom throughout is of soft mud, and therefore may be grounded on vdthout danger. All the people at Goree are intimate with the ;'iver, and oan act as pilots. The only difficulty is the bar, which, like that of the Senceal, is liable to shift, and is extencling to the South. The Sandy point of Sangomar has thus extended a mile since 1828, the period of the survey. The bar is onh about 60 yards broad, and on it are from 8 to 9 feet water, perhaps less at spring tides. In taking the bar you must be able to bear freely to the N.E. by compass, which may be readily done with the sea breeze (N.N.W.) in the afternoon. The best time is, there- fore, the two or three days following the first and last quarter of the moon : it is high water then at from 4 to 6 p.m., and you can make sail for the bar at 2 or 3 o'clock the moment the breeze sets in and is well established, but not if it is too fresh, tor then the breakers are too strong. * From Palmarin Point to the pitch of Cape St. Mary the distance is 11 leagues, South. [(S. hy E. h E.'\ The entrance of the Gambia lies between the pitch of that cape and the low islets called the Birds' Isles. In sailing off the coast between Cape Verde and the Gambia, shipping must proceed with caution, as the Amboroo Bank, the shoals of Joal, and the banks in tKc vicinage of the River Salum, are dangerous, being very shoal. RIVER GAMBIA.— Between the parallels of 13" 30' and 13° 40', in an extent of 10 miles, is the i-stuary or mouth of the great River Gambia : it is bount'c-l on the South side by a point named Cape St. Mart/, the situation of which is lat. 1.' ' 30' 12 , Ion. 10^ 41' 24 \ On a point 6 miles S.E. 'ly E. [E.S.E. J E.'\ from this is the British, settlement and town of Bathurst. The Gambiat is one of the principal colonies of the British on the coast of Africa, and the advantages of this noble river for carrying on trade with the natives in the interior were well known upwards of 240 years ago, for a company was formed in England for that puriwse in 1()18. From tlio time of the first voyager, Thompson, at that period, up to that of Mungo Park in 1795, it was conriidcred that the Gambia and Senegal wore branches of the Niger. Several expeditions were sent out, and the British Factory was placed on the small Islond of St. James, about 17 niilcs from St. Mary's. Besides this settli'mcnt in 1724, the African Company had another fiictory at Jnar, about 100 miles distant from St. James's Island. In 1088 the latter fort was captured by the French , and there is now scarcely a vestige of it remaining. In 1816 a new settlement was formed at the Island of St. Wary's, which was formed on the faith of a treaty for the exclusive trade with the Gambia with the French. The Island of St. Mary's was purchased from the king of Combo ; and on the oppo- site bank, a largo tract of country, extending one mile inland, ond about 3C mileit long, was purchased from the King of Barra. It is to the eastward of Bana Point, • Liout. Bourdon, of tlio Alecton, I. French nr.vy, 1857. t Wfl hiivei ti«knn this general dosrriptid i from tho Report of tho Oovommon* rommiH- sioner, Pr. Mudden. The corroctn(>8N of fhiif report was much disputed by mnny coinpi'- tent authorities, an will bo seen throughout tho evidence boforo tho heu«C; but «" b»T8 omitted inose portions which have be«n particularly specified. Stt Report on tho WontiTU Coast of Africa, Appendix, No. 8, p. 177, Part IT., &e. •i'V RIVER Gambia. ?|•^^^Ta 321 an oxtcntof int'cl on the and is of little advantage except as giving us command of the mouth of the river. There is no British establishment on this tract except Fort BuUen, immcdiatclj' opposite to Bathurst, and a small house, the residence of a missionary. In the vicinity of Cape St. Mary's, 7 or 8 miles to the southward of Bathurot, is a more valuable territory acquired by Lieutenant-Governor Huntley, in 1810, by pur« chase ; it is called Baccow, and has some barracks for the AMcan corps. M'Cabtht's Island is another British settlement, up the river, at the dintance of about 175 miles from St. Mary's, though this distance is usually called 300 or 250 miles. The island is about 5f miles long and 1 broad, and the river is navij^able up to it for vessels of large tonnage; beyond it the trade is carried on in small schooners ; the breadth of the river here is about 200 yards. The falls of Bairaconda, which stop the upward navigation of the Gambia, are about 300 miles above St. Mary's, and from this to Fort St. Joseph, or Gallam, the French settlement on the Senegal is about 150 nules, or five days' journey on foot. There are several islands on the Gambia, between McCarthy's Island and the mouth. The Island of St. Mary's is situated on the South bank of the river, opposite to Borra Point, where a battery has been erected, and where a few black troops are stationed ; the breadth of th ; river is about 2 miles. The principal buildings on M'Cartliy's Island consist of the ban-acks, the Wcwlcyan mission-house, school, and chapel, and three other stone houses ; the population amounts to 1,200, or 800 males and 100 females. The island is separated from the main land by a very narrow creek, called Oyster Creek ; the length of the island is about 4 miles, and the extreme breadth 1 mile. The total population of St. Mary's is 3,514 souls, including 81 r liens and resident strangers ; of th'j iixed population, 42 are whites and 3,291 coloured people. Bathurst is situated in the Island of St. Mary's ; it is a small, prosperous-looking town, with several excellent stone houses, esijccially on the wharf where the houses of the merchants are situated. Dr. Madden's rc^)ort has given rise to much discussion as to the eligibility of the site of this town, but it would appear that there is no other situation which otters superior advantages, JilliJ'ree is on the North side of tlu' river, and is about half a mile from Fort James. Albrida, or Albradar, a fort which belonged to the French, is about half a mile from Jillifree ; their possession of this place was considered not to be on any well- founded claim, and was also a very serious ii. convenience and injury to the liritish trade in the river:* but, as shown in the nolo on page 513, it has been exchanged for Portandik. Of the Oanioia, Cnpiain Silcfer says : — " The Gambia, considered in a mcreatitll« point of view, dii 1, as regards supplies, appears to ofiir more decided advantages tliau any of our posse. ^sions on the coast of Africa and may. ind cd, bo said to be the only pomt where anyihing ipproaching to trudc' tan be sutisfu .torily pursued. Even in lis present state it is bj tar liie most healtliy part of the coast ; and, hod a portion of the liberality of govern nt^nt to Sierra Leoni; been extended to Bathurst and its de- rality oi L'ics, 1 fed pendencies, 1 fed satiMtied that, long ere this, it would have ac(j\iired that characU-r whieh eventually, with iniinite labour, it will establisii for itself from its own resouives." The constitutions of the residents appear to be as stmnd as in any part of the world, and the strongest has been here thirty yeais without visiting Europe." But it is to bo regretted that, at Bathurst, the only fresh water to be had is from private wells ; but, by close work in the dry season, as much iis five tons a d«y tUKf be obtained. Wood iuay be hud aX the heath, wijU dried, in convenient lengths for stowage, at a dollar and' a half, or si:t shillirgs sterling, per cord. Cape St. Mary is readily known by its making like a plain j low by the soa-side, witli an acclivity toward the interior. It has some treei^ and ono house upon it. • Parliununtnrv Heport, 1842, vol. xi., Piwrt I. p. 47(). ' Evidence of F. W. Findon, Edq.," 3 V 622 DESCRIPTION OF THE COASTS, ETC. The narrowest part of the mouth of the Gambia is between the town of Bathunt and JBarra Point, to the N.E., the distance between being only 2^ miles. From Bathurst Point, the Banyan or St. Mary's Shoal, a dangerous rocky shelf, extends 5 miles N. by W. ^ W. [^W.N. W. f W.'] It is even with the water, on the ebb. At a mile to the N.E. of this is a bank called the Middle Ground ; and, at three- quarters of a mile northwai'd of the latter, is a smaller one, the African Knoll. There are from 4 to 6 fathoms of water between these banks ; but the best way in is to pa»8 to the northward of the whole, keeping over toward the Red Bank and the bank extending from the Barra or eastern shore, according to the following directions. " It is strictly to be recommended that vessels, bound to the Gambia, should get into the latitude of 13° 40', or 4 or 5 miles to the southward of it : then, making a due East course, keeping their lead going, until in 5 fathoms, when you may anchor, and engage a pilot. But, should you be desirous of proceeding up, you may follow the sounding depths of the chart ; remembering that on the southern side of the channel the ground is bard ; but on the North and East sides the lead sticks in, the bottom being of soft mud. The anchorage is oft' the town of Bathurst, with any part of it bearing about "West, three quarters to half a mile off"; the depth being 16, 14, and 12, fathoms. Small vessels may lie closer in, where there are 8 and 7 fathoms, The ground is good ; the tides strong : but it is, altogether, a fine harbour." — Limt, O. L. Harries, R.N. The direct course, from 5 fathoms ofiF Bird Island Shoal, to within the African Knoll, off the edge of the Red Bank, is S.E. \_S.E, by E. i E.l o miles, where there is, in the main channel, 6 and 7 fathoms. From the last spot to the anchorage off Bathurst, the course and distance, in a fair working channel, is S. \ W. \_S. by E, A E.^ 7 mUes. WTien advancing to the Gambia, from the northward, you ought not to approach the river nearer than in 7 or 6 fathoms, before Cape St. Mary comes in sight. It may be advisable for a stranger not to proceed farther than in 5 fathoms without a Eilot, unless the veosel draws less than 12 feet of water. Those leaving Goree, when oiind to the Gambia, may steer about S. by E., keeping their lead constantly going, and a])proaching the coast no nearer than in 7 fathoms. When near the entrance of the Gambia, the ground will generally be found an oozy sand ; but, near the cape, sometimes sand and sometimes red shells will be found. The ebb in the river runs very strongly, nearly eight hours, but the flood is not so strong. Spring tides are very rapid. Having approwhed trithin one mile of Barra Point, from which a small spit stretches off to about a quarter of a mile, keep over for mid-channel between that point and Banyan or Bathurst Point. You have S, 9, 10, and 12 fathoms between the two points, and good anchorage in 9 fathoms of water, muddy ground, with Barra Point bearing N.E. by N., and Banyan Point N.W. The tide of flood sets to Barra Point, and the ebb directly on the Middle ; be there- fore very cautious during calms on an ebb tide.* Froui Barra Point to Dog Island Point, on the same side of the river, the Scaring and distance are South \_>S. by E. J E."] 8 miles. The coast between forms a deep and shoal bay, and the flats extend from it into the middle of the river. From Dog Island Point aiid Reef the coast takes a sudden turn to the S.E. and E.S.E., and it trends from Dog Island Point to Leniaine or Lemon Point, S.E. } E, [E.S.E \ E."] 2 leagues. On this shore, at half a league more eastward, is the French former settlement at Alhreda, and at half a mile further is the English one named JiUifree. One mile south-eastward from Jillifree, on an islet in the river, is I^)rt Jaives, To go up to James Fort, which is 17 miles above Bathurst, you steer in mid-ehannel • At the Gambia, in the senHon of the Hnrmattan, the rainy season hos just terminated on the 9th of December. Upon this occaaion the colours are hoisted and a gun is fired. On a second visit in M»y and June, 1831, the end of the dry «._>«»or., symptoins of approsching Triinn, with iquHiU. —vaptain Btlcher. '''rW RIVER CASAMANZA. :-:S-r 523 e ; be there- 2 leagues, with the town of Bathurst N. f W. ^N.N. W. \ W.'\ Thia leads to a Mr offing fi^m Dog Inland Point. The course hence, in the fairway, to abreast of Le- maine Point, is S.E. | E. \E.8.B.'\ 6J miles; and thence to Fort James, E.S.E. \ E. E. \East'\ 3| miles. In order to avoid the shelf which extends from the Banyan or western shore, approach no nearer to that shore, in taming, than in 5 fathoms ; nor near the Barra side, when above Do^ Island Point, than in 4 fathoms ; but if near that point, then in 6 fothoms. Lemaine Point should have a berth of a mile, as some shoals stretch from it. You may haul in and anchor before Albreda in 4 fathoms, half a mile from it, the ground shoaling gradually to within a cable's length of the shore. After giving Lemaine Point u berth, do not haul for the Barra shore till you are abreast of Albreda, for the flat continues to the eastward of that point to a consider- able distance. Under AdniiraUy orders, in 1826, the River Gambia, to the distance of more than 190 miles, from its entrance, was surveyed by Ca[)tain Richard Owen, with his assist- ants, Messrs. Tudor and Mercer. This valuable survey exliibits the depths of water all the way up to Pisanea, where there remain the ruins of a factory, and where the tide, in the dry season, rises 3 feet. It appears from the nurvey that, at 3 miles above James Fort, this noble river is nearly 2| miles in breadth. Here it takes a north- easterly dii'ection, and thus extends for 10 miles, to a point on the South shore called Mooia Point, and a creek, Jukarda, on the North. The depths of this reach, in mid- channel, are 6|, 4|, 4^, to &, 6, and 7, fathoms. Pursuing thence an easterly course, its depths alternately shoalen and increase to a great distance. From Boonyadoo Creek, or the Fourth River, which faces the mouth of the Gambia, to Jukurda Creek, above mentioned, is a line of coast, 1 mile {nautic) in breadth, and 42 miles in length, the sovereignty of which was ceded to His Britannic Majesty, by treaty with the king and chiefs of Barra, signed at Jillifrec, 15th of .Tur»e, 1826. A small spot (400 yards by 300) occupied by the French, at Albreda, excepted. (See ante, page 512.) CAPE ST. MARY to CAPE ROXO.- From Cape St. Mary (the true cape) the const stretches 11 miles W.S.W. to the Bald Cape, where St. Anne's Bank, with the Timyui Rocks, extend about a league into the sea, and include three sandy islets, called the Byjols. Upon the coast of Cape St. Mary the groimd varies all along, but it becomes whiter to the southward : when past the cape you find a reddish sand, wliich, at 2 or 3 leagues more to the South, changes into a gray, then into a whitish, sandy bottom ; ami, about Cape Roxo, it becomes such fine sand as that which is put in the time Kliusbes. These varieties of ground extend from 25 fathoms in the offing to 5 fathoms ofi' the shore. The coast bettcean the Bald Cape and Cape Roxo, in a distance of 20 leaguefi, is very low, with a sandy beach, and covered with trees. The middle part is one low and continued forest, with clusters of large high trees, at a distance resembling islands. In sailing between the two capes, by keeping in 5 or 6 fr.thoms along shore, you will find that depth down to the entrance of the Rirer Casmnanza, 4 leagues to the northward of (/'ape Roxo ; there you have only 4 fathoms, and the ground mostly red wind. About 2 leagues southward from that entrance, and abreast of a cliffy point, near which you may anchor, the ground is so clammy, about a musket-shot from the shore, in 2 fathoms of water, that the lead is brought up with difficulty. The RIVER CASAMANZA, or Cahamance, is situate about 16 leagues to the Houtlvi\ard of Bald Cape. If a bar did not obstruct this entra'ice, the river might bo navigated by frigu^eH ; but it con be gained only by a very narrow channel, having a dc'[)tyi of 2 fathoms, but it can be entered with case by a steamer under proper pilotage. The I'(^i1ugueso. established on the fvrtile banks of this inver, liave nscended to the (listuiicc of many leagues from its mouth ; they hare several establishments on it, principal of whi^h are called Zinyhicor, 45 miles up the river, and Makia Kitvoi the vndOXO (lat. 12° 21') is improperly called a cfl^je, it being an obtuse point of low land, from which the cosist takes an E.S-E. direction to the River Cacheo, or Mio San Domingo, tho navigation to which is impeded by extensive shoals called the Cacheo Banks and Falulo Breakers. The point or cape, when bearing E.S.E. or East, presents a down of white sand, of moderate height, covered with brambles. On one side of the points formed by the coast to the north rard arc a number of tufts, of a remarkably red colour, and it is supposed that, froui these tufts, the name of Roxo (Red) has been imparted to the headland, altiiough they are distant from it about 2^ miles. "JL. Roussin says that on all the approaches \o Cape Roxo the soundings arc regular, but the depth inconsiderable. From the River Casamanza, to the distance of 2 or 3 miles from shore, there is a depth of only 6 to 4 fathoms. At 10 miles to seaward are 8 and 7 fathoms; and at a short distance to the S.S.W. the first bank of the Bis«agos is met with. Cacheo, on the South bank of the river of that name, has been the chief Portu- guese establishment between Capo St. Mary and Cape Verga, and was, formerly, very considerable. Thev carry on the same kind of trade here as at Casamanza. The country is singularly fertile and well peopled. The mouth of Cacheo River is about 6i leagues to the south-eastward of Cape Roxo, and tho entrance is between two reefs. In proceeding for it, give Cape Roxo a Iwrth of about 5 miles. Steer S.S.E. on soundings of from 4 to 5 and 6 fathoms, on a sandy bottom. Go close to the eastward of Cacheo Bank, which has 2\ fathoms of water on it. Continue S.S.E. until you sec breakers ahead, and run straight for them, untilyou are in 5 fathoms of water. You will see a single tree bearing East, then steer E. by S., leaving a reef, which extends out about 4 miles from that tree, Ok ; our port hand. This reef, although it is said to have 2 fathoms on it at low water, breakH at half tide. Close in to the beach, at tho tree, there is a passage of 2j fathoms, wliich is fit for small craft only. Continue your course E. by S., when you will be apparently 4 miles from the land on your port hand, and will come to a shoal called the Mud Bar, on which there is a depth f^f only 18 feet at ordinary high water, but is only soft mud, and about 2 cahks' lengths in brca'^th. You may then sec a clump of palm trees (ten or twelvi' in number) ^ bearing E.N.E. ; and when thcso pa^m trees bear N.E. bj E., you will be over the bar, and -.ill have from 5 to 5, ", 8, and 9 fathoms up to Cacheo Fort, by keeping in the middle of the river ; and, when abreast of the Fort, which belongs to tno Portagues«.', anchor in the middle of the river in 9 falhoma. BISSAOOS and RIJOOGA ISLANDS.— We have ;iow arrived at the Archipelago of BisaagoM and the Bijooga Islands. This archipelago is an extensive assemblage of islands and shoals between the * .So'> rarliamcntfuy Rrport, Part I , pp. ilo, 657, fiOP. 700. Wj^i»t ■ '^ BISSAGOS AND BIJOOGA ISLANDS. 525 jNiralIek of 10" 42' and 11° 40' N., and between the meridians of 16" 30' and 17° W. Of the interior navigation amone the isles little is known, and the hostile disposition of the inhabitants renders it probable that no complete survey of it, at least in the present age, can be made. The principal isles that constitute the archipelago are said to be 16 in number, be- sides many islets, all surrounded by shoals, as shown on the chart.* The archipelago is bounded on the North by the Jeba Channel, or Great Channel of Bissao ; and an the East by the Cjiiannel of Rio Grande. Thes« channels were parti Uy surveyed by the officers under Captain Koussin, in 1818, and Captain W. F. Owcii, in 1826 ; and to their surveys we owe our knowledge of the navigation presently to be exx^lained. The southern breaker, called that of the JSay- flderc, was discovered in 1818, and is represented by M. Roussin in lat. 10" 42' 56", lonp^. 16° 17', and the mouth of the Eastern or liio Grande Channel is 7 leagues more to the eastward. Jeba Channel, or Channel of Bissao. — The main land, forming the North side of this channel, is intersected by seveial livers, which divide it into islands. The fii-st of these is Cacheo, then follow Jatt, Bassi, and Bissao, of all which the land is low. But there is, near the S.W. end of Jatt, at 13 leagues S.S.E. {^S.E. | jS.] from Cape Iloxo (lat. 11° 50') a small but conspicuous isle, named Cayo, which is bold-to, and very useful as a sailing-mark. This isle, when on an easterly bearing, appears like three isles, but, on neariug, will be found to be connected with a flat, wnich is common to all, though intersected, at high water, by shallow lakes. Its soil is sandy, and mixed with flinty rock. The beautiful trees with which it is covered may be seen, in clear weather, at 4 or 5 leagues oif. At 6 leagues more to the eastward \_E,S,E,'], off the S.E. end of Jatt, are several islets, called the Ancoras, which dis- tinguish the western side of a river, bearing the same name. The islands, gcncrallv, which border the Jeba channel, are not high. The beach is generally of white saiid, interspersed with black and red rocks, which, being covered with lava, are, doubtless, with the whole archipelago, of a volcanic oiigin. They are all well wooded to the sea-side ; and the height of the trees, with their vigorous ap- parance, indicate that the soil must be fertile. The island Bissao, on which the I'ortugTiese are established, is not so thickly wooded as the others ; but this is owing to the clearance they were obliged to make for their safety, as the isle is equally fertile as the rest. Tho large isles of the archipelago are inhabited by a race of negroes, known in the country by the name of Papeh. On ths Rio Grande, the Portuguese have several establishments. The settlements of Portugal, on the coast, do not extend bevond Cape Verga. The objects of trade consist chiefly in elephants' teeth, wax, hard soap, rough hides of every kind, dyeing and building wood, indigo, cotton, drugs, resin, and resinous gums, gold in small quantities, orchilla. &c. The extremity, or N.W. part of the Bissagos Shoals, is composed of hard sand. From this extremity, the bank and isles extend to the southward and south-eastward, T,i loagui s, toward the Eastern Channel of the Rio Grande ; and the flat, which is from 12 to leagues in breadth, is interspersed with banks above and under water, and islands, either dry, or drowned and marshy, tho detail of which is little better than unknown. On the 25th of December, 1789, the sloop Endeavour, of Liverpool, struck on the N.W. end of the shoal, to tho westward of the island named Carm^che, in hit. 1 1" 38'. Captain S. Gamble, who was a passenger in the sloop, says, in his journal, that she got ov'.>r tho reef, but, not being oblc to find a passage through the slioals and islands, was, after twenty uays' scare h, obliged to return tho same way she went in. and canied 3 fathoms o? water over the hank. All the islands they saw wore inhabited, but the natives did not appear to have any canoes, and the few which they persuaded to come on board, in hopes of finding a pilot among them, became seasick. When the * For the pobitions, see the Tabic, page i) 1. fi26 DESCRIPTION OF THE COASTS, ETC. vessel struck, Carasche bore E.S.E. about 4 leagues ; and when she was near the northernmost point of that island, the isle or kay, called Isle Cayo, on the North side of the Frith, bore N.N.E. The North edge of the Shoals of Hi - Grande, adds Captain Gamble, is in lat. -11° 40', and we led round them in 11° 43', carrying from 11 to 15 fathoms, llie tide of ebb runs veiy' strongly over the flats to the S.W. ; and, within the heavy Itreakers, the ebb rins W. by S., and the flood E. by N. The tide, at full and change, rises 12 feet. f The PASSAGES to and from Bissao. — Cape Roxo has already been de- scribed. Should you fall in with this point in the evening, come to an anchor, bringing it to bear Noi-th, as then you will be well laid, in order to proceed further. The outer part of the Breakers of Falulo bears S. by E. \_S.S.E. | EA 17| miles from Cape Koxo, and lies to the sout'i-westward of the River Cacheo. 'Ine breakers are divided into two groups,, and extend in a true E.S.E. and W.N.W. direction 3 miles. They are very steep-to, and close to them are from 6 to 3 fathoms. A »»• Tchant-vessel may advance within sight of them, and thence proceed toward the isle Cayo ; but the best way of proceeding to the Jeba .^r Bissao Channel is as follows : — From a point at 2 leagues to the westward of Cape Roxo, proceed S.W. by W. i W. \_S. W.\ 12 miles ; then haul up on the port tack, as at this distance the depth increases. The next course will be S. 5 W. [! stream of the River Jeba, between the eastern side of the Island of Bissao and the small island opposite, called King's Island. This roadstead is perfectly safe in all weathers. It is so completely sheltered, that the sea is always smooth ; and the bottom is of such a natui'e that with good ground-tackle a vessel may ride there in any season. It is advisable to moor N.E. and S.W., as the tides set in this direction : and in the rainy ueamn, as the squalls come from the S.E., the anchors, being thus placed, will bear an equal strain. The Portuguese Fort stands at 100 fathoms from the beach, and is a square redoubt, flanked at the four angles by a bastion. The wall of the ditch, •which on each face is about 100 paces in length, may be about 30 feet in height. The magnetic variation observed in April, 1818, at the anchorage, was 17° 30' W. (It is, in 1861, about 19^ 20' W.) The watering place at Bissao is on the bach, at about 300 paces to the southward of the Fort. It consists of several pits, dug about 4 feet deep in the sand, and may afford sufficient water to fiill thirty casks in 24 hours. This water before being tiltered, coming from sand and rock, is not agreeable to the taste, although it has the reputa- tion of being wholesome, and of keeping well ; nevei'theless it should not be drank without being previously acidulated, or purified by red-hot shot. It may be cither brought on board in boats, or rafted off at high water. Independent of wood and water, excellent bullocks, of about one hundred weight, at the rate of from twenty to twenty-five dollars each, have been had at Bissao ; also goats, pigs, and poultry. There is also rice, maize, and yams, and some fiuit, such as banancs. lemons, and oranges. These articles are exchanged for gunpowder, brandy, u-o^i , clothing, and dollars, by applying to the governor. Gov* til it { J'Connor savs : — " Bissao, declining when I visited it last in April, 1855, has i'n ,(1 I'lyii greatly deteriorated in trade and appearance. The old buildings, totally) ;u fclo,;ted, are sinking into ruins, the troops without barracks living in mise- rable mud lilts, the poi't occupied by only a few colonial and coasting vessels, the market scantily supplied with the commonest necessaries of life, are indubitable evidences that the power and prestige of Portugal are rapidly on the wane in this part of the world." The waters which surround the Bissagos are far from being supplied with fish, and it is erroneously affinned, in some works on Africa, that amongst these islands car- goes of salt fish taay be procured. Mud prevails too much in the bottom i and the few fish which are tound are not even considered as wholesome. No dependence can be placed on this resource, between the Gambia and the Isles do Los. Dr. Madden says, " Bissao is the great stronghold of the Portuguese slave tiade. The island of this group, on which the Portuguese Fort and factory are established, is situate at the mouth of the lliver Jeba, about 100 miles South of the Gambia." Winds in the Great Channel of the Bissagos. — The winds here follow nearly the direction of the land, and vary their course according tc that of the channel. In the Great Channel they vary from West to North ; at the anchorage of Bissao they are generally from S.W., except in the morning, when they are from the northward. In the rainy season, which commences here in the beginning of June, and continues about five months, they blow from the S.E. with the tornadoes, as on the whole coast, and then, passing round by South, return to the northward. Whatever may be the direction of the wind, a vessel, with the assistance of the tides, may always find her way into or out of the Great Channel, and the woi'king is extremely easy with the assistance of the new Chart, which should accompany these Directions^ 1 he remark, respecting the northern bank being approached in preference to the southern, should be attei the soul not app it wth of this which 1 with th intends longer CHANNEL OF THE BOLOLA. 529 be attended to here ; the islands to the northward being perfectly safp^ whilst those to the southward are surrounded by veiy steep and hard banks. Large vessels should not approach nearer to the Isle Corbelle than 3 miles, nor to the line which connects it vfith. Isle Corasche. All the space which lies between the island, to the southward of this line, is filled with banks, having little water on them, and the- gittitcr part of which lie in the channel. If it should fall calm, and it be wished to let a vessel drift with the tide, she must not be abandoned to it until she has opened the channel she intends entering. Anchorage in the Jeba or Oreat Channel. — A vessel may anchor anywhere in the Great Channel, the bottom beinor of soft muti and excellent holding-ground, with the exception of one place at 2^ mi! s t: 80uth% id of the Isle Jatt. Here the depth is from 20 to 22 fathoms, e id ♦* n oi coarse gravel. In all other parts of the channel the depth varies ii to o fathoms, without any sudden alteration. TIDES. — The usual prevailing en he .mst to the northward of Cai)e Roxo ai-e found to be completely chan^ ng this Cape. They have here no longer one only direction ; and, in ail ch- >>f the Bissagos, are suspended by tides, which are more or less regular. Tho^ o Jeba or Great Channel are per- fectly so. Westward of the Isle Cayo the liood sots S.E. and the ebb N.W., each six hours, or nearly so, Avith the exception that the current gradually assumes these directions, requiring nearly an hour, from the change, before it is completely settled in its course. The flood generally sets to the northward, and the ebb to the south- ward. The greatest difference which has been observed between the high and low water maTl:::, :; 8 feet ; and at the equinoctial full moon the rate of the flood and ebb is about 1 2-5th miles an hour ; at other times it never exceeds 1 mile. At the entrance of the Great Channel, which is 6 leagues to the westward, and on the parallel of the Island of Cayo, it is high water, at full and change, at Q^ 15'. From the meridian of Cayo, and as far as that of the Isle Bonn, the stream follows the direction of the channel ; and here the tides are regular. It is not known that the length of the ebb exceeds that of the flood. The greatest rate of either never exceeds 2i miljs per hour, in spring tides, and the rise is found to be 8 feet, as outside the channel. On the meridian of Cayo it is high water, at full and change, at ll**. Before Bissao the rates of the highest tides never exceeds 2*6 miles per hour, and the rise is never more than 14 feet. In common tides the rate is never more than 2 miles per hour, and the mean rise is 7^ feet. It is high water, at full and change, at the an^ chorage of Bissao, at 12'' 30'. CHANNEL of the BOLOLA, or RIO GRANDE.— The eastern channel, or Channel of the Rio Grande, branches into the Jeba Ghannel to the westward of the Island Areas. The western bank is formed by a flat, which extends to the eastwai4 of the Parroquet Islands and Isle Galinha, the banks which connect these with the' Hog Islands and by Kanyabac Island. The eastern bank comprises the Isle Areas, Bulama, or Boolam Island, and the banks which connect these two islands. It is then intersected by the mouth of the Bolola or Rio Grande, after which it again com- mences at Bossessame, and forms a chain of reefs as far as the Island Yomber, in ir 3' N., and 15M0' W. The channel is then divided into two branches by a bank, which is about 4 leagues in extent from North to South, and on which, amongst several islets and breakers, are situated Isle Cavalho and Honey Island. Seven miles to the southward of the latter lies Pullam Island. The western or main branch has, on- its western sidtt, the Island of Orange, and a long chain of reefs, which extend S.S.W. from that island. To enter from the northtcard. — The first difficulty which presents itself, on entering this channel from the northward, is when passing the Isle Areas. From the S. W. part of the island a bar stretches out, on which there is a depth of only 19 feet at low water. It is terminated, at the distance of 4 miles, b^ a rocky bank, which also forms a part of the bar. Although the depth may be a little more at the distance of 3 X ^, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) //^.*t^ 1.0 I.I ^ liii |22 S[ L£ 120 IL25 11 1.4 1.6 p> ^ o^ 33 WIST MAIN '•TMIT WiMTM.N.Y. MSM (71*) 172-4303 '^ */ k % ^ ^ fi80 1 1 DESCRIPTION OF THE COASTS, ETC. a mile from this bank, a large vessel should not ventare near it without previouslir cxmaidering well the time of tide. If she be obliged to anchor, the best ground will be found near the mericUan of Areas, on the North. I7te mark fo. running through this Channel, from a position bearing W. \ S, tW.8. W."] from the Isle of Areas, is to steer so as to keep the western point of the iland, Bulama constantly bearing South \_8. \T E."], until within two miles of the shore of this island. From hence, if it be intended to go to the southward, a vessel should steer for the middle of the strait formed by the island and Oalinha ; but should a vessel be bound to the northward, she should steer N. by E. | E. [^NortK] from the above bearing of Areas, until she has passed the parallel in wMch it lies. BULAMA, or BoOLAM. — The western end of this isle may be approached within a mile. This island, wUch is well wooded and of moderate Aeight, has several well sheltered roadsteads, which afibrd safe anchorage. One of these, on the S.W. side (A the island, bar a depth in it of from 22 to 24 fathoms, with a bottom of soft mud. The configuration of the land is such, that the strength of the current, being carried more to the southward, ia almost imperceptible at this anchorage ; and although the tide rises from 12 to Id feet, the sea is generally smooth and the landing easy. At this roadstead fresh water may be procured from two places. Bulama is generally considered as very fertile. Its situation at the entrance of the Rio Grande, which may be navigated to a considerable distance, the facility of i\a approaches from the westward and southward, and the safety of its anchorages, render it one of the most important islands hereabout. It is situated in the same estuary at Bissao, and about 30 miles to the southward of it. It is claimed both bj British and Portuguese, and by the former, in right of a treaty for its purchase entered into with tOQ natives by Captain Beaver. The Portuguese claimed a prior possession to that of Captain Beaver's* purchase, which, they say, was made from a chief who had no right to sell the island. The island, however, on account of its insalubrity, was abandoned for many years by both ; till one of the slave dealers of the Havannah, a Senor Oaetano Nozzalini, obtained a Royal Portuguese Charter for settling on this island ; and, in 1820, he established himself there. During ten years the island was in the hands of Nozza- lini, it was frequented by slave deiuers. But, in December, 1838, Lieutenant Kellett, of H.M.B. Brisk, visitea the island, attacked and destroyed the factory, and carried away 119 slaves, and subsequently carried away another batch of slaves, which the owner asserted were his domestics, notwithstanding the fetters with which they had been manacled were found amidst the ruins of the barracoon. In 1840, Lieutenant Hill, of the Saracen, had an interview with the governor of Bissao, on the subject of the occupation of Bulama by the Portuguese, and threaten- ing to expel by torce any Portuguese subjects he might find on the island. The Sivemor of Bissao repaired to the Cape Verde Islands to complain to the Portuguese ovemor-general of the threatened dispossession of the Portuguese. In 1842, it was formally occupied by Lieut. Lapidge, in H.M.S. Pantaloon ; in 1843, the Portuguese governor landed some soldiers and hauled down our flag. But since the suppression of the slave trade it has been of little use to any one. The old barracoons, &c., of the ■laves still exist, and in 1855 a Portuguese Jew held them for Kittam's widow, he being one of the last of the slave dealers. jFV'oto the western point of Bulama the course is S. by E. f F. [5f. 36* E."], the dis- tance 3^ leagues. This rourses crosses the mouth bf the Kio Grande, which separates Bulnraa from Botscaaamf or Beaaeaaema, cortinuos along the banks tothoS.E. of Oalinha, at the distance of a mile, the greater part of which are dry at half-tide, and extends to about 1 ^ miles from the banKs on the western part of BosHessain^. The See life of Oapt. Philip Beaver, R.N., by Admiral Smyth. Much respect has liefln aid to bis memory by those who knew him. Boe also a notice of this place aud its coloniei ly Governor O'Connor, in the Proc. Boy. Geog. Society, 1866, p. 48. «; KANABAC. 681 soundinga on this track are very irregtilar, and vary from 35 to 8 fietthonu, with a bottom, generally, of Band and gravel. '< On the right-hand bank, called Beasessema, are two settlements : one cultivated by a Frenchman, M. Henrique Orteau ; the other a small location belonging to a vagrant English subject named Lawrence. " The bank and grounds at Bessassema are cleared to a considerable distance; of a rich alluvial soil, they produce com, kus, rice, ground-nuts, sugar-cane, yams, pota- toes, vegetables, tropical and European fruits, flowers in abundance. '*M. Henrique Orteau employs about .300 natives; has a well-built open town ; the huts, very lofty, with thick mud walls, and broad piazzas, are admirably cal- culated for the climate. He represented the place as healthy, and that even in ti^e rainy season fevers seldom or never prevuiled. — Governor O'Connor, 1867. When at 2 miles to the westward of Soaaeasame or Beaaaahema, a vessel may run for Kanyabac iHland, steering South 3 leagues. The depth in this course varies from 7 to 20 fathoms, red sand and shells. To the we;stward of this track are the four little islands called the Hog lalea, and in the country, Rjuhan, Banak, Chieeya, and Corett. The latter, which is the northernmost, is the most remarkable, being covered with large trees. KANABAC. — All the eastern side of Kanabac or Kanyabac is perfectly safe, and may be approached to within a mile, in froiu 6 to 10 fathoms. The S.E. point, which the inhabitants call Barel, is about 60 feet high, very bold, and formed in peaks. On roundiiu^ this point to the westward there is a small cove, called by the inhabitants Port Manel. It has a very good bottom for anchoring, but at low water a very small depth. This part of the Eastern Channel is formed by the S.E. coast of Kanyabac bland on one side, and a continued chain of banks, on which the sea breaks, on the other. The latter connect Bossessam^ and Yomber Islands, and have on them an islet of white sand. Kanayabac lahnd, one of the most considerable of those which form this channel, is of a moderate elevation, and rather higher on the southern than northern end. It presents alternately a sandy, volcanic, and ferruginous soil. If we may judge I't'om the numerous population, and the quantity of cattle on it, this island must be very fertile. The large trees, called in the country PuUam Treea, with palm trees, and vegetables and all kinds, are very nlentiM on it.* The Port of Manel, Iving between Point Barel and an islet callea Pomp, seems to be the chief resort of all the canoes belong- ing to the inhabitants of the southern part of the island. From Point Barel, near the middle of Kanyabac, the course is S.W. | S. {^S. 30° TT.] 13 miles. This will take a ves6<^l s 'ithin 2 miles of the western side of a very extensive bank which lies to the not .inward of the Isle Cavalho. The depth on this couitie is from 10 to 21 fathoms, the bott/om of sand and shells. From 2 miles West of the banks to the northward of Isle Cavalho the direction of the southern parts of the Channel is S.W. J 8. [S. 30° W.] This bearing, extended to a distance of 13 miles, will pass the eastern shore of Orango Island, at a proper distance, and alno breakers which stretch more than 2 leagues off to the B.W. of this island, and to the parallel of PuUam Island, at 3 leagues from it. Orango Island is the most considerable of the Bissagps. From hence, any cuume between S.S.E. and S.W. by W. IS.E. ^ S. and 8. W. i «.], will lead a vessel perfectly clear of all danger, and out to sea. 'ITic eastern part of Orango is not vei^y high, and is of the same nature as the ad- joining islands. The most conspicuous point, when bearing N.W. by W. ^ W. [ W. by N.^ ia a well-defined cape, much higher than the a(\jaccnt land, and rcmark- • Captain Bulchor has noticed that the PuUam tree is the bombax or tilk-eotton trera, and liBs no refereuce to the palm. Pifilam Inland, whioh will be preHently described, as deriving it« niime from the " Ufkc tree** with which it itt covered," can hnnilv boast half a do»eu ralni", wliich hide their diminished heads beside the more maJeHtic rtmam (reft, <— 69^ DESCRIPTION OF THE COASTS, ETC. able from several spots of yellow sand, which form a striking oontrast to the brown appearance of the coast. This cape, forming the S.E. point of the island, is called C^ Camehon, or Yellote Cape. At 4^ miles to the East of it is a spot nearly dry at low water ; but the depths between are from fi to 11 fathoms. Pullatn lakmd, which derives its name from that given by the natives to the large trees (Bombax, or silk cotton), witii which it is covered, has not above a mile of extent in any one direction, and is very little above the level of the sea. Its shores are rooky, and rendered very difficult for landing, by the constant surf which breaks on them. It is impossible for large vessels to approach this island ; from S.W. to E.S.E it is bounded by flats, which extend to a distance of 4 miles from it, several parts of which arc dry, or breaking. On the 21st of April, 1821, H.M. shin Leven arrived off Byoosa Islands, and an- chored between Yomber and Orang^. Upon the latter many natives and herds of cattle were seen. On thr following day tne Zeven grounded upon the shoal, at half a mile teom the East shore of the Isle Bawack, between Canyabac^ and Oiango, where the lay in a perilous situation nntil the next tide, when she happily got off. On an> choring, many canoes came off with natives, bringing various articles to exchange for tobacco : but they had been reported as ferocions, dishonest, and treacherous ; and they were found to be so. The banks of the river have the appearance of being thickly inhabited, but the huts with which the^ are apparently studded are, upon a nearer inspection, discovered to be ant-hills, which are built in exactly the same form, and of the same height. On the island Oalinhas (Hien'a Isle) the tracks of elephants and hippopotami were seen ; and the largest sized boa-constrictor is also frequently seen in this island. Tho nativea have great respect for these reptiles, and imagine that whoever destroys them will die himself. This island resembles Bulama in every rcHpect, having fine savan- nahs and abundance of water ; botli are surrounded by an extensive flat, which ren- ders landing exceedingly difficult at any other period than high tide. The idea we had been led to form of these islands was extremely erroneous ; as instead of beiiig " low and marshy, with scarcely a channel for boats between their muddy shores, we found them a cluster of the most beautify, fertile, and inviting islancb, with moderately high and bold shores, separated by deep water, and contain- ing many fine harbours ; most of them being inhabited, and each village having its indepenaent ruler. According customs of these people, every vessel stranded upon their shored is forfeited tr chiefs or people, in consequence of which they considered that they had a jusi «..-uim to the Leven, when she lay grounded near Bawack. ■■■' -•■ ■■-■•i-' ...-....•..■.•. It is a practice of these islands to rear their poultry and stock on the small inletg, sooieaboanding only in fo^' 15'. The magnetic variation, in May, 1818, was found to be 17* 33' W. Now it is 18' 40' W. MO irUNEZ. — ^The River Kakoondee or Kakundy, commonly called the Rio Nunez, or River of Nuna Tri«tao, is a very considerable river, broaid at its entrance, bat impeded by several shoals, among which the least water in the channel is 3 fatiioms. It has been celebrated as a place of trade for ivory. The situation of the entrance, as shown in the Table, is 10° 36' N., and W 42' W. Between the mouths of the Rio Grande and the Rio Nunez the coast is very imper- fectly known, but it appears to be, /in general, shoal and dangerous to a great dis- tance ft-om shore. On the edge of the bank, in lat. 10° 37', and at 23 miles ».E. % 8. [8.E. f £•] from Pullam Island, is a rocky bank, called the Alcatraz, with a rocky islet in its centre. It is surrounded with breakers, and the reefs extend from it both to the N.W. and S.W. At 6 miles to the westward is a depth of 20 fathoms. Captain Belcher has described the Islet Alcatraz, the landing to which was not at all difficult, but the whole summit of the rock was covered with boobies {pelicanua aula), the etfgs of which were pixxsurcd. Alcatraz may be approached on the S.E. side ) but the reefs stretch from it d miles S.W., true, and above 3 miles in width, at right angles to this bearing. Lat. 10° 38', long. 15° 20|'. Nearly in the route between the Alcatraz and the Rio Nunez, in lat. 10° 30', and long. 15 11', is a much more dangferous reef, surveyed, in 1826, by Captain Owen, and by him named the Con/lict Reef. Its western edge in 14 miles to the S.E. from the Alcatraz, and its breadth each way is from 3 to 4 miles. Two other rocky banks, to the southward of it, are comprehended within a dititanco of 8 miles ; the South point of the latter is in 12°* 20', and has near it a depth of 1 1 to 16 fathoms. From this spot the mouth of the Rio Nunez bears about E.N.E. ^ E. IN.£. by £.] 10 leagues. The descendants of the Portuguese, who still exist on the banks of the Rio Nunez, are so mixed with the negroes, that they have been described as negroes themselves. In the old chai'ts of this coast no island is laid down at the mouth of the River Nunez ; and we first learned, from the information of Captain Livingston, that a con- siderable island, where Woodville formerly gave a shoal, had aiiseu within the last thirty or forty years. It is called Sandy Island, is now covered with trees, and has many palms upon it. Sandy Idand, according to Captain Belcher, is in lat. 10° 36' 37 ' N., long., 14° 42' 19" W. Fifty years ago 7t was a mere sand-bank, even at low water ; subsequent deposition, however, has not only formed it into an island, at least 6 feet above high water, and bearing large trees, with a fair surface soil, but has also added a very fxtenHivo range ot shoal on its northern, western, and south-western Hidct*. Vessels hound to the Nunez should make the land in 10" 31' N. ; or if coming from the southward, should, at least, not advance into less than 7 £athoms till in that lati- tude. They will then approach the river, steering E. ^ S. [N. 75° JB.] through regular soundings ; and it is necessary to remember chiefly, that, with a flood tide, there is u dangerous rocky flat on the starboard beam goinir in, while, on the other hand, a vessel may play with the edge of the breakers on the point of Sandy Island on the point side. The constant warning also, " Keep in mud, which is familiar in all channels along this coast, should be here especially kept in mind.* For a vessel to reflt, no place can be better adopted than Sandy Inland. It is unin- habited; and a vessel may be moored within 150 yards of low water-mark, or even less, if required, but should be prepared to haul ofi* in case of a tornado. Small vessels * Oaptain Livingiton says : — " In making the Nunez it is advisable to make it from the KHtkward ; but beware or the very dangerous Sandkitual Roekt, extending 6 or 7 miles to the southward of Benoer or ths FiRst Point. The reefti sntl banks at the entranc* of river are cvrtainly iacreanng, and genernlly break, even in moderate weslhf r. th« 4M DESCRIPTION OF THE COASTS, ETC. Inay be grounded, or hauled up, for repair or examination ; a apace sufficient for the encampment of a crew, even of a line-of-battle ship, is ftoe from trees ; and storei may be conveniently landed. Immense quantities of drift-wood lie piled on the S.W. side ; and plenty of live timber grows on the island, of which tne palm yields an excellent cabbage for the use of the sick or convalescent.* Fresh water, alone, ii scarce and ill tasted ; and a great annoyance arises from the clouds of fine sand which are incessantly in motion over the island. The temperature, when the JEtna wu there, did not exceed 106° in the tent ; which was, nowever, oppressive, from the necessity of keeping it pretty well closed, to prevent the sand from imbedding the instruments. A breeze generally prevailed throughout the day, except between nine and noon. The western side is by far the most cool and pleasant, but not so con- venient for communicating with the ship. The river is very serpentine in its form, and the trees on either side impede the wind in its true course. Still, however, a pleasant, and after noon, even a fresh, breeze generallv favours vessels bound up, and afibrds favourable slants in many of the reaches aown. The general depth may be stated at 2^ to 3 fathoms at low water, with a rise and fall of about 12 feet ; and, although the lead generally gives mud, tiie anchor frequently hooks a rook, and good and lon^ buoy ropes are especially neces- sary, which should be got on board the instant the tide slacks, in order to be in readi- ness to trip the anchor instantly, if found to be foul. The chauge of the tide is very rrpid, and much inconvenience will be felt if completed before breaking ground. The three principal settlements, Walkeria, Casaaaez, and Hebucko, or Debucko, are all near each other, end from 70 to 80 miles up. We had formed g^eat expectations of the supplies which could be procured at these settlements, but were much disap- pointed. Bullocks and sheep could be procured with some difficulty ; fowls were very scarce ; and vegetables could not be got at all. These native towns are never pre- pared to meet a sudden increase of demand for food. Below Walkeria not a single habitation was observed on the Nunez, though the cultivation of its banks might be profitably pursued. The want of fresh water prevents the natives settling here. Above Casaaaez, which is 2 miles above Walkeria, the river is much interrupted by rocks of close-grained basalt, several of them presenting a perfect columnar formation. The range of the thermometer, while the ^tna'a boats were in the River, March and April, was at six a.m. fh)m 75° to 84° ; at noon from 84° to 04° ; and nine p.m. ftom 81° to 83°. The dews were slight ; but at other seasons are said to be very heavy, accompanied by a fog, lasting firequently till noon. The FOLLOWING Observations on the Kakundt or Rio Nunez are from a copious and valuable communication by Captain Licingaton, who visited the river in the year 1829. To enter the Nunez, bring 8andy laland, above mentioned, to bear N.E., or perhaps a little (but very little) to tne northward of that bearing, and steer in right fur the island, which is bold-to on the South side. The shoals generally break, and extend about 6 or 6 miles to the S.W. by W., or thereabout, from Sandy Island. Giving Randy Island a small berth, steer about N.E. for Big laland, which, in clear weather, may be seen after passing Sandy Island. Keep close to Big Island, as a rocky spit extends two-thirds or more, over from the Tatabunch (Talabooncho ?) or western shore. It is scarcely prudent^ for a stranger to run much above Big Island, but rather to send a boat up the river for a pilot, and one may generally ro enga^ced at Walkeria, or a little higher up ; or one may sometimes be had from a coasting vessel. * This cabbage tniik«n a delicious pickle, and is conmdered one of the finest anti-ocor- i>utic8 ia the world, doubly valuable when other vugotablos are not to be had.— ^. li. RIO NUNEZ. US On going njp the Nunex in a boat, b« oautioua not to mistake anj of the oreelui on the western side for the main river. In case of necessity, fresh water may always be obtained by digging a few feet deep at the root of any palm tree. In going up the river Captain Livingston grounded about three-quarters of a mile or a mile to the northward of Sandy Island. The vessel lay for two tides on fine sand, without receiving any damage. When at anchor, on coming down the river, in 7 fathoms, a^ut a quarter of a mile off shore, the centre of Sandy Inland bore N. by W., and the extremity of the breakers on the long spit of sand, which extends 5 or 6 miles from the West end of the island, W. by S. The situation of Talabunch (Talabooncho) village may be known by some remark- able large trees, which may, in certain situations, be seeni from sea, before Sandy Island can be described. I have heard it remarked, that wherever you see a large clump of majestic pullam trees (the cotton tree of the West Indies) you are Bare to find a negro village ; and wherever you meet with a palm tree, you may be sure of finding fresh water, by digging a fow feet deep, however arid the soil may appear. No person ought to land at Talabunch unless in company with eight or ten others, well armed, and on their guard ; but on the opposite or eastern side, Talabunchana, the negroes, though of the same tribe, are remancably civil and honest. llie Barrier of the River (as it has been translated to me from the Soozee language] is, I think, about half-way up the river between Big Island and Walkeria. Bi^es 01 rooks, almost like walls, and which appeared to me, when in u boat at low water, like walls of lava, extend about two-thirds across the river irom the port or western shore ; and at about a mile or a mile and a half above that, it is laid that rocks, even worse, spit out from the starboard or eastern shore ; but these were not seen in passing, when covered with the tide. There are other dangers in the river, but none of magnitude until after passinff Walkeria and some houses about' 2 miles above it, at Cassashe. These places are both on the eastern or star- board shore. Between them and the village Rehucko is a very dangerous spot ; but vessels drawing 10 feet may proceed to the latter near high water. Both banks of the Nunez are generally muddy ; mangroves grow into the very water, and some of the finest tree or mangi'ove oysters adhere to their trunks and branches. In the rainy season tornadoes are frequent and violent ; but, with caution, vesselr may have sumcient time to prepare for them. I observed none here to begin with nnall clouds or a small cloud, but all with heavy thunder clouds. Vessels going to the Nunez ought to be well supplied with provisions, and not to depend on what can be obtained there, as a trrcat scarcity frequently prevails. There are many cat-fish in the river, and above Kebucko some other kinds of fish. There are pike, similar to those of Britain, but with scales much larger. The time of high water, on full and change days, at Walkeria, is 10*> 17' a.m. Rise, from 16 1 to 18 feet or more. Depth, at low water, 15 feet: bottom of fine mud. Latitude of the wharf at Walkeria, by two meridian altitudes of Jupiter, agreeing to one second, 10° 54' 22" ; long., by 52 sets of lunars East and West, mean, 14° 18' 55' plus 3' for distance of place of observation equal 14° 18' 58'. The tide at Walkeria runs strongly, and while I was there flowed five hours and ebbed seven j but during floods in tho river (which sometimes rise considerably) it ebbs or runs down longer. Walkeria was named from Waker, a slave factor, who realized a large fortune and died here. This place is composed thatched huts, mostly supported on stakes, though some have mud walls, and there are two of two stories each. The population may be from 500 to 600 \ all Mandingo Mohammedans, excepting the slaves. Buou Mod6, the chief, who speaks a little English, said he had five wives, but he wanted to get 9M DESCRIPTION OF THE COASTS, ETC. ■ome more ! Hii arms bore many gri»-^ri» or charms (they called them gregorieN), Mid eveii his horse's neck was loaded with no small number of them. BIVEB COMFOONEE. — Captain (Sir Edw.) Belcher, in the prosecution of his survey, made out tiiree mouths to the Rio Nunez, and 10 miles N.W. of the northernmost, much to westward of where land was expected, saw a cluster of islands, which gradually showed their close approximation to the main, and were ascertained to form the North and West boundaries of the entrence to a river or inlet, lai-gcr at its mouth than the Nunez ; and, at 12 miles within the dlHtance to which he sm-veycd it, deeper, swifter, and promiiiinff as large or larger branches. Where Captain Belcher stopped, it cameirom the East, and showed several extensive arms lending.to the North and West. The entrance by which he ascended has two large channels, equally navigable, but its mouth is so studded with shoola, that until better known, few vessels will probably venture into it ; the natives North of the Nunez havini; also the general reputation of being dangerous. The western enti-ancc is equally fair and navigable to the sea. The northern alone is very shoal, and probably passable for canoes only : several of these were neen at a distance, and one country schooner ; from which, and the numerous fires at night, it seems likely that the banks are well inhabited, and have some traffic. Upon a renewal of the survey in 1832, it was found that small vessels only could navigate this river vrithout great risk, there being a chain of reefs, which neaily bars the passage ; but(> above this barrier, the channel is sufficiently deep for larger vessels, and nas few dangers.* The COAST'fuom the RIO NUNEZ to the ISLES de LOS, &c. — From the Rio Nunez to Sierra Leone, in an extent of about 55 leagues, the coast is in general low, in most parts swampy, and intersected with creeks, which, connectiDg we adjoining rivess, form an excellent navigation ; but at unequal distances, from 5 to 20 miles, in a right Une from the sea, the land rises gradually ; and beyond that distance, in many places, towers into lofty mountains, which, alter a tornado, when the air is pure, may be seen 10 or 12 leagues off. A small isle, called Young Gonzalez, ies about 5 miles to the eastward f^m the regular entrance of the Rio Nunez. It is the southernmost of three, having channels communicating with the Nunez ; about 5 miles true East from it is the mouth of the River Cajmatchea. From Young Gonzalez a long and dangerous flat of rocky ledges, navel and sand, extends S.W. (by compass) nearly 6 miles. At low water, a patch, three-quarters of a mile in length, has over it only 6 feet of water. Its composition is a coarse red sandstone, or conglomerate, like lava, till broken. The Coppatchet is a trading river, but shallow, and frequented only by boats, or vesseb not drawing more than 4 feet of water. CAPE VEBOA, in lat. 10° 19', is the termination of some moderately elevated land, and not a mangrove island, as commonly described. A long and dangerous spit extends fix>m it N.W. 6^ mUes. In the deep bay vdthin this no vessel can enter which draws more than 4 or 5 feet of water. This place is S. 21° £., true, from the mouth of the River Coppatches. The coast hence southwai-d appears to be a great series of islands, some forming, others breaking up, so that in twenty years the aspect probably will be materially changed. The high mountains of Cape Verga, which stand about 3 leagues inland, to the north-eastward of the cape, serve as a mark for it, and may be seen at the dis- tance of 15 leagues. Thus, bearing East [^£.N.I!. ^ JS.}, are they equally useful to ships bound to the Rio Nunez, which, with this beafing, will clear the banks lying wimont the river at 5 or more leagues to the south-westward. Of the mountains within Cape Verga, two, in particular, are the most conspicuous, * On prosecuting the examination it was found that this river is named the Compoome. Captain Be Ichor has given a pleasing descriptiou of its course upward ; for which sec the Oeogniphical Joarnal, vol. ii. pp. 287-8. In the upper part many indioationa of bufiWoes, hippopotami, deer, lions, panthers, monkeys, Ac, were seen. ' « •Vr' RIO PONGO. 'fuvm^a 837 lem gregories), thdihelilglieflt, according to M. Konsaia, is in lat. 10* 18' 52% long. 14*21' 30'. These mountains have no particular peak, but form nearly one mam, extending from N.E. to S.W.; and are about 000 fatuoms in height. BIO POlfOO.— The entrance of the Rio Pongo is about 24 miles S.S.E. | E. [S.E.'] from Cape Verg^. The river is well known as a place of trade on thij part of the coast, ana its consequence has been increased by rettlements of slave-traaers on its several branches,' To the country are several entrances, or inlets, bat all seem to be included under one general name, Pongo or Pongaa ; each is impeded by a bar of mud or sand ; and the coasts, to the head of the several riven^ are entirely oovered with mangroves. ' wHim'n hms \ sn**U mr>i-P- f^ji,; sitr The first of the Pongaa, or entrances to the Rio Pongo, is about 10 miles to the ■oath-eastward from Cape Verga. This is caUed the Coaaenety Bar, having A thaJlow and dangerous entrance, thou{^ within are 4 and 5 fitthomsof water. ■■■.\-m)iH\ ki ITie hett channel in, for a stranger, is over that called Rissing Bar, or the HtJb BAlt, which lies in lat. 10° 2', and extends more than 2 miles out from the river to the west- ward. On the North side of it are only 6 feet, on the South side from 6 to 9 feet, and on the middle 12 feet at low water. From this bar, two hills up the country, called the Papa, bear E.N.E., and serve bp the mark for the river. A grove of palm trees, on the North side, is also a distinguishing mark. To sail over the Mud Bar, get the river open, and steer in N.E. by E., keeping thd Paps, which are moderately high, a cable's length open of tiie Nortn pf6int, by which von will carry 4 fhthoms in depth at high water, or 2 fathoms at low water. Anchor in 7 or 8 fathoms, in the middle of the river, abreast the palm trees on the port hand, which trees appear to extend about 2 miles in length. Then send your boat up the river for a pilot, or fire a gun twice or thrice, at intervals of about an hour, and in aU probability a pilot will come off to you. < If bound to this place, in the night, approach no nearer than to the depth of 4 fitthoms until davlight. If beating in, stand no Airther to the northward than to bring the two hills in the middle Mtween the two points of the river ; then stand to the southward to 2 and 2| fathoms, and proceed as shown hereafter. ; If going in, with a fair wind, bring the North point of the river, with its palm trees, to bear N.E., and run in with it bearing N.E, by E. On entering, keep on the South side, within the bar, as the flood-tide sets on the northern breakers. Should you here have a quarter-less-two, you need not fear, as the bottom is all of mud. The river hence lies East and West, about 8 miles, and its depths, id mid-channel, arp 3, 4, 7, 6, and 5 fathoms, i t^ n* The Sand Bar is miles to the southwi rd of the Mud Bar, and its entnnoe li more intricate i therefore not to be attempted without a good pilot. This is, never- theless, the Mouth of the Bio Pongo, properly so cedled. In the best channel, at the entrance, the depth is 12 feet at low water, and within it are 4 and fethoms. A small sand-bank having showed Just above water, at high tide, to the northward of the Sand Bar, and mangroves having taken root on it, the bank consequently in- creased, and the natives have planted palm trees on it. There is said to be a passage of 3 fathoms. . Feaaeta bound to the Pongaa sometimes make the high land of Cape Verga, and sometimes go to the Isles de Los for a pilot, although one is not always to be foun^ there. Some run in by their latitude, taking care to sound fi'equently, as soundings extend out 1|° to the westward. The time of high iivater here, on ^e Aill and change, is 9\ The rise, about 10 feet. .!<> ♦*>i'4tS«T ,Mi'n'»'ii'*H' !»?■■**: -fes^Uj* A Sand Bar of the Sio Pongo X.y.E, \ E, — A — Barkia Hill ; remarkable table-land, 3 Y DE8CHIPTI0N OF THE COASTS, ETC, In Mny, 1848, Catotain Xou)r8e,^H.M.S. Iri$, dMtroyed a skve-tnde fkotory in tht Bio PongMk tilt hmnamot whiish wai oarried on by Mn. Lightbrnn, but tlw riavw yfove removed during the preparatiom for the attack, with the exception of eleven, which were liberated. In destroying the factory several banrels of powder exploded, wounding several, and killing one man belonging to the Iri$. From the Mud Bar of Rio Ponoo to Dbmbia Kivbr, a place of some trade, eikI nove to the southneastward, the distance is 8 leagues. Two leagues to the southward t»f the lattor is 8angare9 Itiver, whence the landjuts out to the S.S. W., inte, 6 or 7 miles to IVmufci Pomt ; beyond which, to the eastward, is the high volcanic land named Mount Sttzoa i and westward are the Ilhua do$ Itloiot, or ftte d« Loa, at 2} miles firom the point* Nolint Suot, properly so named, but which in the charts appears tinder the name of Sangaree, has a regular conical peak, exoeptting that, on its southern side, at haif> way up, there is a Uuige protuberance. This iuHulated mountain, in lat. 0° M', ii a 'oertain niark for the IhIca de Los during the rainy season. In the dry season the atmosphere is always so hasy, that the coast of tne continent is seldom seen, even iiear tnese islands. . At about 4 leagues to the northward of Mount Suaos is another mouutaii), called the French Mountain, to which M. Roussin assigns the latitude of 9° 4fi' 60', and long. 13° 26' 10'. On the 24th o^ May, 1826, Cai.tatn Owen, when in lat. 10" 2' N., saw the Sangaree mountaias i one farmed a snguor-baf, between 4,000 and 6,000 feet in height. Hav- ing been twelve days in this neighbourhood, on a previous occasion, it may seem strange that it was not then observed ; but it was during the dry scoson, when there fs always such a base over the land, particularly in the day, that the view is always much hmited ; but in the rainj season every shower clean the attQosphere, and tne most distant ol>jeots may be discerned. -;;,'. 'v! ' .' . , WINDS, &c.— In March, 1831, H.M.S. JS^, i^r paadng Cape Verga, lost the land-breeae, which had previously blown with 'extreme regularity from about 10 p.m. till morning, and been calculated on, with certainty, in moving the ship along-shore. The winds also became much affected by changes in the tides and time of the moon; ttm, tor example, if it were low watct at noon, there was seldom wind enough to more the ship till the first quarter flood, and then the tide was too strong to weigh. The weather also became more hasy, so as to prevent the use of the sea horicon ; and for ^« three days preceding full and change, this was so much the case, as inconveniently to shottea the bases of triaing^ation. HHAS DOS IDOLOS, or ISLES DE LOS.— These isles, which have already beett ttMrtio«ked, lie between the parallels of 9° 26' and 9° 42' N., and between me- fi^ans 18° 4d' and IS" 62' W. They are six in number, but only three are inhabited, the i«st being Kttle better than rocks. Those which are inhabited are extremelt pleasant, and, in general, healthy. The easternmost island, on which the English nctory was established, lies nearly North and South, with a high wood-crowned hill at each end, which, when seen from sea, appears like two islands. It is 4 1 miles in length. The road is on the eastern side ; and, during the dry season, is very safe; Irat, iti the tornado and rainy season, there is no security, unless in the goodness of anchors and cables. Tamara, or Fbotahar, the largest and westernmost of these islands, is nearly semi- circular, rising on both sides from the sea by a gentle ascent, to a moderate neight, and is covered with good timber trees. It is 6 milea in tength, and the summit of its northern part is 466 feet above the sea. That ot Factory uland is 470 feet. In a description of the Idolos, or Delos Isles, by the Baron Roussin, the admiial says, the isles worthy of description are, Tamara, the Isle Idolos, or Factory Island, and Crawford Island, by the French called Isle Fran^oise. Tumba, on the East, is BO connected to the continent by beds of sand, mostly dry, that it can hardly bo con- sidered as an island. Tauara, the krgest and westernmost island, may be seen in fair weather at the ILUAS DOS ID0L08, OR ISLES DE LOS. A30 distance of 7 or 8 lotiguod. Ou approaohiiig, it appeart lika a rang« Of billa, thiokW wooded I ite elovatiuu in m idorate, and the nortliern part higker than the South, it ill, in shapo, like a oriuoont, with ita oonoavity to the B.B., fbrming wveral fine anduHr- tges and depth* of to 8 fathoms, at low water. You may enter the roadsteads on the eastern side of Tamara cither from the north- ward or southward, only giving the coasts a berth of throc^uarters of a mil«, beyond whtoh distanco both tho North and South points are quite clear. A reef, the Arethtua, surrounds the North point to tho distance of a quarter of a mile. The wc'Htorn side ia buld-to, and may be approached safely. Variation, 18" W.* Near the prinoiiml anchorage within Tamara is a spring of ft'esh water, where 80 hofifshoads may be obtained in 24 hours. At the diHtanoo of 1| miles S.B.E. from the South end of Tamara is an inlet named Coral lata, leaving a passage between of 9 and 8 fathomH ; but, in tho same direo- tion, at a quarter of a mile from Coral Lile, is a ttmall but dangoroiw rocf, which mmit bo cautiously avoided. * Tho central island of the group is JRooma, or Crawford l»land, tho western summit of which is 300 feet in height. From this island to tho N.B. are shoal flats, extend- ing to the distance of 2 miles, toward tho ^North end of Factory Island, leaving a channel between of only two-thirds of a mile. The Isles de Los are of volcanic origin, being formed chiefly of hard blue and iroQ- coloured lava, with occasional masses of porphyritic hornstone of different elevations. Of the vegetable productions, the most romarlcablo are tho palms, which furnish palm oil and wine, and the silk cotton tree. Tho natives also speak of a troo, the bark of which is an excellent bitter, but it was not seen. Tho natives belong to the tribe named Baccas or Barkas [quci-y Bagos P], who also occupy other islands along the coast. A groat similarity exists between their lan- guage and tliat of the tribes inhabiting the banks of the Nunez. The rainy season here commences in April, and ends in December. The seasons have here been described as follow : — To begin with January. About the 8th or lOtii of this month the Harmattan, or cold strong easterly winds, con- tinue, with some strength, for about a week or ten days ; after which, the land-wind and sea-breeze take place till about the middle of February, when the wind becomes continual and N.W. or N.N.W., till the last ta\\ change of tho moon in March. The tornadoes generally begin and prevail, more or less, till May or June ; then the rains set in, and are almost continual all July and August; they begin to abate in Sep- tember, and go off in October, giving place to the toi-nadoes, which continue till about Christmas. Daring the rainy seasons the winds are mostly between South and West, or in the 8.W. quarter ; and the tornadoes always blow with prodigious force fi'uiu the B.S.E. or thereabout, accompanied with thunder, lightning, and a delug<. of rain. When a tornado has happened in the night, it is impossible to imagine the dear state of the atmosphere next morning i we have nothing like it in Europe. Captain Belcher sayis, that the rainy season between the Gambia and the Isles de Los ranges, in its commencement, between the 1st of April and the Ist of June ; and terminates from the Ist to 31st of Decembe. Off the Conflict lieef and Bijoogas, rains and tornadoes were experienced on the 12th, 14th, and Idth May, 1831. - ' The flood, at the Isles de Los, sets to the North. Tho tide rises and flows as soowo in shown in l^e Table, page 2(i8. COAST between the Isles db Los and the VovQO.—\Captain IbfeAsr^— Tnmbo Point is about 2 miles distant from Faotory Island : and is a long vocky flat, partly covered at h^h water, and divided from the main by a narrow channel, navigable for canoes at high water, but nearly dry at low, where the natives affirm that they caa treather at the >v. rtl: * Survey by Lieutenunt Jtuues Badgley, of H.M. ship LeveH, 1827. . Tnc^t^aMt^ 4m . DESCJaiPTIOK OF THE COASTS, ETC. yrtAk tuamm, thouffh the depth of mnd makes thu improbable. From this the main 'land tiaee gradaallj, and partakes much of the features of the Isles de Los, 'without, -however, being quite so denuded or bare as the summit of Tamara. The whole interim is mountainous ; the highest peak of -which -we could obtain a measurement being .2,810 feet above the sea. This mountain is called Kahulimah. Further on, the San- garee or Soomba Bidge commences, and forms the entrance of the Sangaree or Debr^ Miver. The highest point of which, Tikitee-chin, or, as pronounced, Tikit-chin, ii JLtO^ feet above the sea. Its western point is called Alligator's Point, and off this uie mud extendN above a mile, dry at low water. >. The whole of this bay is one series of flats and reefs ; and no vessel dra-wing above 6 feet should venture within a line drawn fit>m Tumbo to Alligator Point. Vesseli ^drawing 15 feet should not, when working up along this shore, do more, than open Crawford Island ; and, to ensure good room, should even tack when the East end of ^ aanara opens the South end of Factory Island. Within these bearin|L,'S tiie soundings ntitt very regular, and nowhere less than 6 fathoms. . llie entrance of the Sangaree River has 2 fathoms in it ; but there is little induce- mettt to ascend it, there not being the slightest trace of trade along its shores, nor anv 'supplies to be procured from them, excepting wood. The water is scarce and baa. The JEtttiis boat ascended 65 miles. More to the North there is a small isle in the centre of a river called the Dembia, but which is, in feet, a month of the Sangaree. From this isle, Allisator Point bean 'S;E., true, 51 miles. The river -will admit very small vessels } but ^e greatest depth ^'Only 1 &thom at low watier, where the sea curled. The shores hence are thickly clothed 'with mangroves, and extend about 16 miles to the first acknowledged mouth of the Pongo, called Tt^ourg or Old Pongo, whid 'iir bordered to at a^e oat by dangerous breakers. Directions for Sailing from Cafe Boxo to the Isles le Los. Sg the Baron JRotusin. r - The description of the Bissagos, already given (page 525),-point8 out the course to be steered in order to double their S.W. extremity. A vessel starting from a point at 4 1 leagues to the westward of Cape Roxo, which will be a little without the mediom of 17° 0' 0" W., to the parallel of 10° 40' N., will be outside of all the danffers. From hence a course of S.E. | E. [& 68° JEJ] and distance 68 leagues, will lead her to the West point of Tamara Island. On this course the soundings will never be under 8 &thoms, until near the shore of the island} and those on the first course will be considerably more. From the parallel of Cape Roxo to that of the western breaker, 11° 31' 82 " N., at a distance of more than 4 leagues to the westward of the meridian of 17° 0', the depth wiU increase progressively from 8 to 28 fathoms, and the bottom be entirely of mnd. This remark may be depended on to show that a vessel is not far to the south- ward of the paraUel of the Jeba or Great Channel ; she cannot at the utmost be more tlnin 10 miles tram the positions already given. From this point, as fer as the parallel of 10° 40' N., the bottom is nearly free from mud, and on passing to the southward of the parallel of 11° 20', verv slight traces of it ijemain, but are succeeded by a bottom of fine white sand, sand and gravel, sand and broken shells, with a depth varying from 1 2 to 50 &thoms. A vessel, having left Roxo, and arrived in lat. 10° 40'i may twnoe steer s direct course for the Isles des Los. The S.W. edge of the Bissagos follows a gentle curve from the western breaker as far as the southern one, that of La Bayaddre. The bottom, in this part, pre8ent« a singular peculiarity. Amongst the fine white sand, sand and broken shells, sand and I8LES 1)£ LOS AND SIBRRA LEONE: Ml m.s- mtf-vM gravel, of which it is most frequently composed, a greenish-coloured sand is some^ times found. The depth decreases very gradually ^m 60 to 9 fkthoms, from S.W< to N.E. ■ The remainder of the course to the Isles de tioe passes over deep soundings, as much as 50 fathoms, at the point of departure, and the least depth is 12 fiithoms« No pre oise rule can be given as to the changes in the depth along this triuik, nor as to the various nature of the bottom. It is uaown only tnat the ground, in the space passed over by this course, seems to be fiirrow^d with channels, which, commencing firom the southern extremity of the Eastern Channel of Bissagos, 'diverge toward different points between 8.W.and. S.S.E., true. The furrows above mentioned appear to have been caused by the regular tides in the mouth of the Rio Qrande, ana prove, beyond a doubt, that the outlet of the same channel is partly caused by that river. With respect to the nature of the bottom, M. Roussin says that he remarked the total dbaence of mud. The bottom is of fine sand, in some places mixed with broken shells, small pieces of brittle rock, and gravel, which appeared to be only a covering to beds of a whitish volcanic sandstone, into which the lance penetrated but 3 or 4 inches, and did not hold. A muddy bottom is not found until about 10 leagues to the vrest- ward of the Isles de Los, and then only in small quantity, till within a very diort distance to the N.W. of those islands. Tides. — In proportion to the distance from th6 mouth of the Jeba or Greitt Channel of Bissagos, either to the northward or southward, the tides lose their regularity. This interruption in the tides is evident in going to the southward, as, at a few miles South of tile parallel of the western breaker, 11° 31' 32" N., they are no longer per^ ceptible, even on the edge of the Bissag^. ' No decided course of the current was ascertained to exist, but it is generally allovred that the waters have a greater inclination to flow to the southward man to the nortli- trard ; and it may be presumed that it follows the direction of the winds on tihs western edge of the Arcnipelago, but it is seldom found to be considerable. Coast between Isles db Los and Sierba Leone.* — The portion of coast between the Isles de Los and Sierra Leone comprises an extent of 66 miles, and contains several rivers, islands, and banks, besides various inconsiderable creeks. Between the Isles de Los and the sharp low point of Tumho there is a safe channel, through which, by Captain Owen's chaxts, ships may carry 3 fiithoms of water, and whioh may be, at times, highly convenient to use, or even to run through the group \ yet, without some good reason for so doing, it will always be advisable to go outside the islands, where certainly no. dangers are to be met with. In approaching this part of the coast it may be remarked, that though the 3 fethoms' boundary, in some places, extends to a considerable distance, yet tiie sounding are so regular as to give ample warming. A tumbling sea, at times, may prevail in a strong breeze, yet, as no giales but the Tornadoes, whidi are of short duration and off shore, are knovm upon this coast, a commander need never be alarmed; for there is always good anchorage under foot, and no long swell current to force the vessel into danger. From TuMBO Point to Matacono Island the bearing and distance are S.E. by S. 23 miles. Tumbo Point is the S.W. extremity of an island bearing the same name, and separated by a very narrow high water channel from the main land. To the southward of this point the land fidls back to the north-eastward about 7 miles, form- ins an extensive but shallow bay, at the bottom of which is an inconsiderable stream, called Tannaney Biver, accessible to canoes only. In the extensive bay between the Isles de Los and Matacong Isle no detachelT dangers exist. The coast is safe to approach, the soundings being gradual, and ^•^im * DMcriptioa and Directions by Captain Betelor, of H.M.B. Htola, 1829. /^Itu '^ Ml BEStulPTION OF THE COASTS, ETa always affording good anchorage i and it is, in all parts, acc«ssible to large ships t« the uistonce of 6 miles, which generally may be considered sumuiKutly sear to dis- tinguish the land, and often to recognise the mouths of the rivers. Hahneah Siver, about 12 miles E.8.E. ft-om Tumbo Point, is, at low wat«r, scarcely accessible to the smallest coasting vessels, but the rise of tide exceeds 2 fathoms. The entrance is about miles south-eastward from that of Tannaney, but the water between is very shallow { and a mud bank, which extends south-westward from the West point of the entrance, is uncovered at low water, more tlian 2 niilei from that point. A similar mud bank lines the East side also, leaving the channel between above a mile wide, but carrying only from 4 to 8 feet at low water. To enter this river it is necessary only to bring the western point of the ontranoe, while at the distance of 5. miles from it, bear N.E. by E. | E., and then steer toward it in that direction, until you get close to the S.W. mud bank, when you may proceed along by the edge of that ba^, in a convenient depth, according to circumstances. Within the river the depths at low water are from 6 to IC feet only. The water discharged from this river must very great, as the ebb tide runs out with great rapidity. Aiver Morebiah. — The mouth of this river is about 18 miles 8.E. by E. | E. from the Isles de Los, and about 7 miles northerly from Matacong Island ; and, though its breadth within the points nowhere exceeds half a half a mile, yet it is far superior to the Mahneah, last described. Its entrance is narrow, and forms an elboM' at the commencement, which, to render perfectly safe, would require two btioys, because the coast is destitute of good objects to serve as marks. In ofiproachit^ the eoaat abreast <*f the river, with its opening bearing E.N.E. J E., distant about 9 miles, and Matacong; Island S.E. by E. ^ E., you will have 6 fathoms of water or black mud ; from this situation the depth will decrease gradiuillv, on a bottom of the same kind, to 3| fathoms at the entrance of the channel. With the rounding of the land between the rivers Mahneah and Morebiah bearing N.N.E., the East iMint of the entrance E. | N., and the middle of Matacong Islana S.8.E. { £., you will have that depth.- From this position steer N.N.E. until the East point of the river bears E. \ 8., and then stand in towai'd this point, or about East ; but re- membering, that both flood and ebb set partially over tne extensive shoals thiit form the S.E. side of the channel : some of tncse, however, being dry at low water, and nearly so at high water, their steep boundary is nearly discernible. In the elbow of the cnannel the least depth is 1^ fiithoms at low spring ebbs : this depth, however however, continues but a short way; and, from the time of altering vour course to the eastward, or steerinv straight in, you will seldom have so little as 2 rathoms. Beyond the East point the &pth varies m>m 4 to 6 or 7 fathoms, and for the extent of 7 miles up the river it appeai'ed to be clear of all danger. About 4 miles above the East point of this river, and on the same side a remark- able round mass of granite rook rises abruptly, about 40 feet from the water's edgci it is about 400 yards in circumference : others may be seen inland ; and the natives assert, that several are scattered about as fiur as the Skingaree Mountaint, which, they say, are also of granite. It is high water, on ftill and change days, at T** 40', and spring tides rise 11 feet. The contrast which this coast presents to the eye, in different states of the atmos- phere, has been already noticed in pages 206, 206, and 038. Matacong iBland. — ^The beauty of this island consists of the luxuriance of the trees, the verdui'e of those spots wnich have been cleared away, and the gentle rise, which renders it a conspicuous contrast to the low swampy tract opposite. It is mors than a mile long, and having been purchased from tne natives bv Mr. Oabadon, • merchant of Sierra Leone, is now established for rearing cattle. Tne island appcan to be of lava, yet on its summit there are two large pieces of granite ; but there ii reason to believe that they have been artificially placed there. Matacong is surrounded by mud banks and rocks in all directions, so that no vcskI of any buraen can lie at ancnor within 2 miles of it. The channel, which divides it 4^,. THE RIVER MELLACOREB. 648 e runs out with from the main, is nearly three-quorten of a mile broad, but its moddy bottom, at lew water, is left dry. From Matacono Island to Sallartook Point, a distance of 14| miles S. f E^ the general features of the coast are the same as those already described, but the mountains are too distant to be distinctly seen ; here and there a cotton tree, with smooth trunk and spreading foliage, rises above the surrounding thickets, and serves to identify the locality of the coast to those who are acquainted with it ; but a stranger can make the mouth of the river which he intends to enter by his latitude only, or oy mnning the coast down ftt>m some known point.* JVom Matacong Island the coast trends to the eastward a little more than 3 miles, where it turns abruptly to the northward, and forms the West point of the mouth of the River Forecabreah : the interval being fronted with sand and mud banks, which extend more than 3 miles to the southward. The entrance of this river is abcve 2 miles wide, and the least depth is 1 fathom at low spring ebbs. To sail in, it will be necessary to pass close to the banks which project from the West point, but, at the same time, to be cautions in approaching them, as they are steep-to, and dty at low water. The outer sand will be apparent, even in fine weather, at any other time than high water, and if seen, it may be safely skirted in 2 fathoms near low water, or in 4 at high water ; and that yoa may not get in at the back of this sand, do not bring the highest j>art of Matacong luland to the westward of N. by W. | W^ until the Wost point of the river bears N.E. J E. You may then sofeW enter, re- collecting, as a guide, that you should always keep the western side aboard, off which, however, you will have to edge occasionally to avoid the banks ; yet this river is of very little consequence, as a ridge of rocks nearly crosses it at a short distance from its mouth. The ebb tide is extremely rapid, and the overfalls in the vicinity of the rocks are dangerous to those who do not possess a local knowledge of the river. THE RIVEB MELLACOREE which is or was of considerable importance in the timber trade, has bettor objects for marks than any of those already described, and the facilities of its navigation are greater, yet buoys are indispensably requisite to make this secure. For enterina the Mellacoree, observe that, at 8 miles off shore, there are six frithoms of water ; and, with the river's mouth bearing E. by N., it will be fairly open. Steer toward it, in that direction, until the soundings have decreased gradually to about 3 fathoms at low spring ebbs, with the following bearings : East Point of Yellaboi Island S. by E. ; Sallahtuok Point, distinguinhable by the trees being higher than eliewhcre, bearing S.E. ^ S. ; Bentee Point,t known by a remarkable largpe tree, E. by N. ; the outer pomt of Tannah River, E.N.E. i E. ; and the rounding of the land to the northward of the river, N.E. f N. ; you win then be at the spot indicated by the outer anchor in the plan, and in the fair way. The Middle Ground is steep and dangerous, but the soundings on the southern side are gradual, though the mud bank is very wide ; borrow, therefore, rather on that side until nearly as far as Bel- langsang Point, when you must haul over to the mouth of Tannah luver, and there anchor. Higher up, tnere are some patehcn of rocks in the middle of the river, but at low water thoy are seen, as well as the deep water channel between them, which is one-third of a mile in breadth, with a depth of 7 to 9 fathoms. By keeping the East point of the River Tannah, bearing N.W. by W. i W., you may pass through this channel in safety { and, there being no further danger, you may ascend the river to the factories established below Devil's Island, on the South shore i the general depth * In the Table of Positions, the position of MRtacong, is griven, nccording to Captain •Owen, &c., in Int. 9* 14', Ion. 13" 26 30"; but Captain Doteler (1829) givos the house on the North side of the same island in lat. 9* 16' 10", and Ion. 13° 26' 20'; und henco, by survey, the latitude of Sailahtook Foiiii wiil bo 9= 3' 5 . t This point is on the South side of the river, and immodiatoly opposite to another point, on which there are two very large trees. '644 DESCRIPTION OF THE COASTS, ETC. ^raries from 5 to. 9 fathoms. Here it is high water on tail andohaage days, at 7'*. -v spring tides rise 11 feet. Besides the channel on the South side of the Middle Cfround, for which dircctioiu .liave been given, there is also an inferior one to the northward ; to enter which, when or 6 miles off shore, bring the West point of Tannah River to bear E. f S., and b; \j carefully using the lead, you may proceed in with safety ; for, although at its ter- nunation it takes a slight turn round the N.E. corner of the Middle Giound, yet this is generally so well indicated that you can scarcely be deceived. The Tannah River, which falls .into the Mellacoree, is also navigable, though much smaller, and the tides are not so strong as in the main stream. On account of the soft nature of the bottom, vessels may ground in several places in the vicinity of the Mellacoree River, without being injured ; but a patch of foul groimd, which surrounds the long reef of Sallatook Point, must be carefully avoi&d. From Sallahtook Point the coast trends S.S.E. 7 miles, to a small river, on the western point of which is situated Sangahtook Factory ; and about If miles to the . westward of this point is Yellaboi Island, surrounded by mud banks that are dry at low water. Yellaboi is a low swampy island, nearly two miles in length, and covered with trees, which, toward its western extremity, give it the appearance of an abrupt cliff, easy to be recognised ; abreast the S.E. extremity of the river there is another small river called Inglis Pahboyeah.* Corteemo Island. — Four miles S.E. from Yellaboi we come to a much larger island, with extensive mud banks on the north-westward, but with a deep channel between it and the. main ; it is called Citrteemo, and lies in the mouth of the Rivm Scarcies. These rivers are known on the coasts by the names of Great and LiUh Scarcies ; the former is navigable for large ships, but the other is adapted to' veiy small vessels only, and requires very careful pilotage. Great Soaroies. — The channel into the Great Scarcies River is the best on thia part of the coast ; for, although the banks are steep, yet it is broad and deep, and a of the line, by taking a proper time of the tide, might moor off the inner point of Yellaboi Island. To sail into this anchorage, bring the West end or highest part of Yellaboi Island to bear E.N.E. and steer toward it in that direction, until you decrease the depth to A or 4 fathoms, which will happen suddenly. Now change the course, and keeping in 4 to 5 fathoms, steer direct for Inglis Fahhoyeah River, bearing E. ^ N.f taking care to keep it well open of the inner point of Yellaboi Island, until the West point of that island bears N. by E. % E., when you must haul directly in toward it, and skirting along the steep mud bank which l)orders the South side of the island, steer for its S.E. point, close to which you may anchor in 4jk fathoms. In reaching this anchorage, the least depth you will have to pass over will be 2^ fathoms at low Hpring ebbs ; and this occurs only after hauling in for the island, and running along the edge of the mud bank. A timber-ship, lying at this place, could easily have her cargo rafted down to her, excepting during the rains, when, as affirmed, the strong winds occasion so heavy a sea, as to make it unsafe to lie there with her raft ports open. With little difficulty, howeVter, she might proceed to Kakongkah Island i though the channel is norrow and crooked, and would perhaps require buoys to point it out.| It would bo Hcai-cely • Yellaboi, or Yollaboa, accordinnr to Captain Owen, as showTi in the Table, p. 3S, isin lat. 8*«6' 42". long. 83' 17' 46'. Captain Boteler gives its West end as in lat. 8"fi7'5, long. 13' 18' 25". Variation, 18' 4' W., 1829. t Inglis Pahboi/eah River, the entranro is nearly a league to the North of Corteemo Island. X Ka'kfiniiifkah \n a nmall isle in the mouth of Great Scarcies River, having a factory near its western extremity. SIERRA T-KONK. 545 lays, at 7\ "ii" uch direction »r which, when 3. f S., and by ugh at its ter- round, yet this igable, though possible to give intelligible marks for this winding channel, but it is so apparent in the plan, that by using the boat ahead, and never passing over the 3 fathoms boun- dary line described therein, except in crossing the three short flats, you can scarcely go wrong ; the bottom, however, is so soft, and the water so smooth, that no damage will arise from touching. It is high water here, on full and change days, at 7>> 10', and spring tides rise 11 feet. For Captain Boteler'a General Remarks on the Coasts and Seasons, see page 206. several places at a patch of t be carefully river, on the 1 ^ miles to the lat are dry at corered with xa abrupt cIUT, another small a much larger deep channel of the Itmn "eat and Little apted to' very best on thii 1 deep, and a nner point of 'ellaboi Island e the depth to , and keeping I N.f taking le West point ;oward it, and e island, steer reaching this at low spring ing along the down to her, on 80 heavy a ttle difflcultr, 8 narrow and I be Hcaixieiy [)le, p. 35, is in lat. 8»fir5, of Cortecmo II factory near SIEBltA LEOKE, etc. — From Yellahoi Island, mentioned in the preceding page, the Cape of Sierra Leone bears S. by W. | W. \_South\ 25 miles. This cape, vnth the coast eastward, forms the South side of the great river, bearing the same name. The coast northward of the mouth of the river is low and level, bordered with a shoal bank 3 miles in breadth, and which has upon it several dangerous rocks ; but on the South side the land rises into hills, which, forming one upon the other, tower into lofty mountains, crowned with perpetual verdure. These are, properly, the Sierra Leone, or Lion Mountains, which nave given name to the river and country. From the foot of the hills, points of land, projecting into the sea, form excellent bays for shipping and craft, and convenient places for hauling the seine. The mouth of the river, which is 2 leagues wide, is obstructed by an extensive bank, called the JfuJE^fe Ground, but on the South side of this is a safe and deep channel for vessels of any burden. The latitude of the cape is 8° 30' N. Vessels bound from Cape Verde to Sierra Leone are recommended to gain sound- ings in lat. 9° 1 5' N. on the grand bank which extends from the Bissagos to Cape St Anne ; and having gained bottom in 50 fathoms, gray sand, on the edge of the bank. to make a true S.E. by S. course, keeping in soundings until in lat. 8° 20' or 8° 30'. Then make an East course good, nnd you will make the land of Sierra Leone, the mountains of which may be seen in clear weather 14 leagues off: but as, on this coast, the weather is generally hazy, it is seldom seen farther off than 6, and fre<}uently not more than 4 or 3, leagues ; although, at the same time, a good observation may be had. This is occasioned by the constant vapours, caused by the sun, which ascend from the mountains covered with thick woods. Appearance of Cape Siena Leone, bearing S.E. by E., distant about 6 leaguet. In standing in for soundings, and approaching SieiTa licone, keep the lead con- stantly going, as the current sets in various directiouH, but generally tending to the eastward, jft is requisite to be very attentive to this particular. Should you bo standing in, in the night, in lat. 8° 30', and shoalen your water from 20 to 18, 13, and then suddenly to 8 and 7 fathoms, you will be at tne distance of 3 leagues from the river, and should immediately anchor and remain till daylight. 'The danger on standing in for the cape is, the Middle Ground, hereafter described, which extends 7 miles fVom the eastern shore, and nearly to the meridian of the cajie, leuving an entrance only 2 miles broad. Having made the land of Sierra Leone, bring the cape, which may be easily known by a small negro town standing npon it, to bear S.E. ny 8. ; then steer dii-ectly for it. At this plnre pilots for the rivor may be had. A rock, called the Carpenti'f, lies »i the distance of nearly a snile i W.I ftom the N.W. ex'treniitv of the cape. This rook always •nr - " . I ...rill i«ir *i. Tf . T-Ai'iruiii V "I I i»f- vapr-. m iiin n/v-iv uiv breakers over it, and at half-tido may bu distinctly teen I XT shows - a. n. itsHf by the riiC Hood tic mil t'cts M» DESCRIPTION OF THE COASTS, ETC. directly thi-ough between the cape and the rock> You may advance within half a mile oi the rock ; but those beating down the river, with the sea breeze, and a stroiiK ebb tide, must be careful and give it a good berth, ae; the ebb tide netH strongly between the rock and the cape. Fi-om the capo, a ledge of rooks extends in a direct line toward the Carpenter. The LIGHTHOUSE on Cape Sierra Leone was completed in 1849, and shows a brilliant fixed light. It stands on the extremity of the cape, and is 69 feet firom the base to the top of the lighthouse. It bears from Carpenter Rock E. ^ S. by compass, and from the western edge of the middle ground, S.W. ^ S. Vessels, there- fore, coming from the westward should be cai-eftil not to bring the light to bear more to the eastward than E.S.E. | E., and coming from the southward not to alter the course until the light is on that bearing ; and coming from the northward, should not bring the light more to the westward than S.S.W. | W., until King Tom's Point comes in one with the centre barrack, S.S.E. '| E. to t^v > i v The Bt/Uom shore, which forms the rSTorth side of the entrance of the river, is level and covered with wood. On this sh.)re, in lat. 8" 40', is an islet, called Leopard Isle, whence the coast roonds to the south-eastward, nearly 12 miles, to Tagrin Point, and between arc eight negro towns, of which the fourth, from the northward, is that of the King of Bullom. The edge of this coast i? low, swampy, and bordered with shoals.* In the river, eastward of Tagrin Point, is Tasso Island and several smaller isles, the formation of which can be understood only by reference to the particuktt chart. Ships from the northward, when bound to Sierra Leone, should be careful how thie^ approach the oapc. They must keep their lead going, and not approach any nearer than 6 fathoms, until they see the nigh land. No one should stand in for the capo until he gets that high land to bear E.8.E. \ E. [^Easf], and, when he is 6 leagues off, he will see the cape making in a small low point, with a ridge of cocoa-nut trees close to the water's edge ; and when within 3 leagues of the cape he may observe the, Carpenter Itock, with the sea constantly breaking over it. You pa»s the cape within^ a quarter of a mile, in 9 or 10 fathoms. You will now open the first cove, called Cai)e Bay, and thence pass Pirates' and the other inlets which have been described. In all these bays excellent fish may bo caught with the seine, and sometimes green. turtle. Having passed the cape as above, your course will be S.E. by E. i E. \_E. | SJ] up the river ; this leads clear along shore to Freetown, which is 3^ miles from the cape. The general depths will be 12 to 18, 13, and 14 fathoms. In working to the north- ware^ advance no nearer to the Middle Ground than in 7 fathoms. To anchor off Freetown, bring the fort {Fort ThorntorC) to bear S. by "W. ; the Eafet point of the bay, S.E. \ E. ; King Tom's or the West Point, W. by N., off" shore a quarter of a mile, 15 or 16 fathoms, with mud. Moor with the best bower to the eastward. The watering-place here is very convenient, and the water excellent. You illl your casks in the boat, with a hose, which leads from a cascade. A green light is shown at the landing place by night. In sailing up beyond Freetown to Furrnn Point, or further eastward, you will find regular soundings, 14 to 10 and 17 fathoms. You may make free with the shore all the way up, as it is very held. Farran Point is remarkable. It is elevated, and has a house on its summit. In hiuy weather, several vessels, on coming in, have mistaken this point for Cape Sierra — — ! ^ * This swiimpy coast has lioeii thought, by some, to be the origin of the unhoalthinoss of tlio oppo.iito shore of the rivor, ami Freetown. It has boon proposrd, by Bomo one, to orert liinukiiaB on this corvs^, in order thxt their fumes might counteract the noxiou^miiiuniitA ftnsiiiar fiom tJio shorns iiiul luimgrovos ! It noi'd sciircoly to be said, thai the iuRalubrity ef, thy coloiiv dN not tiriso onliri'lv IrDin MUi'h n ciiUNO. 548 DESCRIPTION OP THE COASTS, ETC. Leone, although it .is nearly 2 leagues eastward from the cape, and have thus touched on the Middle Ground. But Farran Point serves as a good mark for the mid-channel, between the Middle Ground and Carpenter, when kept well open to the North of the cape, and bearing S.E. by E. | E. Vessels coming in more from the northward will clear the West end of the Middle Ground in 3J fathoms, with King Tom's Point (West of Freetown) on with the central barrack, bearing S.S.E. | E. IS.E. ^ B."] The tide at Freetown flows, on the full and change days, at T" 50', and rises 12^ feet. Duiing the rainy season the tide is \eiy regular and strong, running 6 and 7 knot* an hour, and the cob sets rapidly on the Middle Ground. In the dry months it com- monly flows on shore at 7*' 3C', with seven and a half houra' ebb, and four and a half flood. In this season the ebb runs 2| miles an hour, the flood only 2.* SIERRA LEONE to CAPE ST. ANNE, &c.— From the Cape of Sierra Leone the coast, at the foot of the mountains, forms a slender sandy bay, bordered with trees, which extends more than 3 miles to the southward of tne cape, where it ter- minates in a rocky point. At three-quarters further is another point, more conspi- cuous and projectmg, named the False Cape. The last bcai-s from Cape Sierra Leone S. by W. I W. IS. i E."] distance 4 miles. , , ', - ^ From False Cape to York, or the Sisters' River, f the coast trends irregularly S. % E. IS.8.E. I J?.] 12 miles; and from York to Cope Chilling, S. ^ W. [S. by £.] 7 miles. . ' At Cape Chilling the hills of Sierra Leone terminate, after having made a high double land, which is seen a great way off ; the mountain near the South is of a pro- digious height, it8 summit being perpetually covered with clouds, and can be per- ceived at the distance of 14 or 15 leagues. The cape itself is low, and covered with trees ; and, at 4 or 5 leagues off, appears like a small island. One of the boats, employed in the survey under Captain Owen, was driven on rocks extending from Cape Chilling, and was totally destroyed, tht people, with ^reat difficulty, being saved. Upon this cape is Kent Town, a village of liberated Africans and disbanded negro soldiers ; but, as no sure market exists for their industry, they raise little from the soil except for their own use. This village is delightfully situate on the side of a hill, with a large house for the superintendent. — Captain Owen, 1826. BANANAS. — Off Cape Chilling, and separated by a space of 2 miles in breadth, like the Banana Isles. The outer or S.W. end of these isles is 7 miles S.W. by W. I W. IS. W. \ erson to take possession, in 1449. This was forty-three years before Colombo landed in America. And, it has been affirmed, that the Flemish merchants, on the part of their countrymen, sent a colony thither, many of whose descendants continue in Fayal to this oay. Hence the isles have been also called Flamingos, or Flemith Itlandt. The capital of the Azores is Anpra, in Terceira, the residence of the civil governor but the general residence oi the bishop is in the Island of St. Michael. The climate is delightfiil ; the air generally clear and serene } the soil ao prolific, that both European and tropical plants arrive at the greatest perfection : the fiuse of the earth is, however, so diversified, as in some places to exhibit, within a small extent, volcanic hills and productions, gardens of aromatic plants, pastures, vine- yards, orangeries, &c. The greatest inconvenience of these isles is, their having been subject to eruptions and earuiquakes ; and, in some parts, where the coasts are low, the sea has, at times, overflowed the land, and occasioned considerable mischief. Yet, in the cultivated parts, the lava, once a stream of fire, is planted vrith oranses, lemons, and vines ; and we land, formed from the decomposition of volcanic suDstances, is sovn with Indian com, small beans, and wheat. The islands still abound in waste lands, fit for the cultivation of hemp, the vine, &c. Beinff generally mountainous, they may be descried from a considerable distance ; particularly the pesJc on the Isle of Pico, noticed hereafter, which may be seen more than 20 leagues off. It cannot be doubted that this archipelago must be considered as an immense ridge, on which craters are thrown up so as to form islands. The Ishmd of St. Mary, the only one not situated in the general direction of the others, is not volcanic ( no part of its surface appears to have suffered from heat or eniption, snbseqoent to its formation. The Island of Pico is elongated firom S.E. to N. W. in the same manner as all the other islands, St. George, St. Michael, and Terceira ; and Fh»M and Corvo lie exactly in the same directien. Fayal appears to be nothing more than a part of Pico, for the general direction of these islands and their snores perfectly cor- responds \ and Si. Mlchaera wid Terceira aj^ear to be connected by an intermediate 4 A 6^ ISLANDS OF THE NOKTH ATLANTIC OCEAN. ran^ of volcanic formations, as will be subupquentlv seen. Few places offer sach i ▼aliety of volcanic phenomena as St. Michael's ; ana the history of the eruptions and earthquakes on ana near it give ample proof of the violence of the subterraneoiu foVow over whhih it lies. In the desoriptions of the separate islands will be found noticed f the principal volcanic phenomena that have been recorded. The reader is directed, for a more complete deMcription of the volcanoes, &c., of the Azorei, to an article in the "Nautical Magazinr" for 1841, pace 752, consisting of extracti from the '* Philosopical Transactions," and " Von Buch's Descripcion Fhisique" of | tliese islands. T^^A population of the Archipelago fiwm the census of 1857 amounts to 241,646. "WINDS AT THE Azores. — ^In the former jMirt of this work, in the section treating on the subject, we have given descriptions of the general ph> 'i. na of the wiiidt and hurricanes of the Atmntic, and the laws by which ther " i ;rt'hich is connected with the Azores, and their vicinity. It will not be iPivessarj to ..capitulate any of the principles or statements which have been before f,i v>;i>, but must refer the reader to that division of the subject, as detailed in page !' i 4 . iud following. The ibllowing Table shows the mean duration in days uf the winds from each quarter, from the results of 10 years' observations made by Thomas Carew Hunt, Esq., between Jan. 1, 1840, and Dec. 31, 1849 * :— ik ^ ^ 9 UUVUllCU Y ticalMttgi >9 ,* ^ i 1 1 i t < 1 1 a (1 1 1 1 Fromtt rately obw sions whic general di With the C K. .. 1-32 112 118 1-27 152 016 211 0-14 1-40 216 2-78 3-62 7-29 11-07 18-36 may every rise of wa N.E. . 7-64 6'18 6-73 8-89 10-9 101 137 151 11-6 10-9 6-84 7-71 6904 460 116-04 checked in of atmosp identify th work of C Stream to E. .. 107 0-63 066 1-80 1-28 0-76 117 0-30 1-20 062 0-69 1-72 6-61 6-19 11-70 8.e; . 4-44 3-90 803 2-44 2-44 313 2-78 4-71 4-94 4-46 3-74 3-60 20-98 2317 44-15 their diam ..."^•./■.•.r,' 2'88 0-96 2-26 0-79 0-95 0-67 Oil 008 012 1-51 1-64 2-0 2-72 11-13 13-35 cane of Oc fi.W. . 8'46 6-60 9 01 406 8-78 4-43 4-63 2-89 8-44 413 6-94 6-32 23-20 38-46 61-66 in about 5i diameter. w. .. 116 1'17 1-58 1-61 2-38 1-61 209 1-78 101 1-36 1-39 1-52 10-23 8-17 18-40 With re the use wl N.W. . 6-86 704 6-44 8-061 a OOl 8 •>?•! '■82 4-73 &-b9^ 5 19 6-03 0o3 39-62 37-11 76-63 1 the Azore ' '■ ' probable Calm . 0-19 0-66 0'12 0'»?|-'> 'jO;0>i; , i7 1-29 0-74 0-66 O'lO 0-08 3-61 1-70 6-21 Stream, ni Surf , the wind ^ on 1-13 70 6-49 2-70 116 0-60 003 0-20 207 4-42 6-42 7-38 6-66 38 85 45-50 would ace ■shore. Similar hurricanes to those described in the section devoted to the subject seem to bo prevalent at the Azores, and in some measure to be governed by the HanH> lavx. 'Tbw it will be very important for the mariner to know, and therefore the following * Beport of the British Aasooiation, 1850, page 135. WI^iDS A'f TH]^ A^SOHES. m its to 241,646. H i •3 !9 11-07 18-36 14 460 US'** 1 619 11-70 8 2317 44-l{ 2 1113 13'3J 38-46 61 'G6 3 8-17 18-40 2 3711 76-63 I 1-70 6-21 5 38 85 45-50 subject seem to jr the same laws. re 1 he following obiervationH, by T. C. Hunt, JBtq., the Bzitisb coiuul at Bt, Michael's, will be very interesting :— u xhe r<^?ulaFity with whioh gales enter these seas in the north-west quarter,, Mid, after oros^iiig f hem, disappear at the southreuit, is, a circumstance the knowlcfdm of which may be highly servicuuble to the commanders of ships ■ailing aoxwM 1u9 Atlantic " The centre of a eale, in its approach, always e£PectH a descent on the barometer, and a change in the fall of rain. In iti!i actual passage over the instrument, the de- scent generally^ reai hes 28-50, ^m which a rise of one-tenth appears to take place for every 10 miles' removal of the centre ; so that the number of miW 'listuiice from the centre of an approaching gale might, perhaps, be indicated by i number of hundredths shown by the barometer over the extreme of 28'dO. " The difference in the fall of rain* has also its regularity, the approat of the centre bringing a temporary increase, and then a cessation of the rain, whici, < re- newed, and, in a reversed order, diminished on the removal of the centre. A ord- ing to the observations made at this office, there appears to be in every ^^ale ol ind If __-• 1 J. in« _:i-_ -•_ 1 J..1. 1. -•- ^ _ ^..t . 1 'is a^xmt on to the twelve- •vnry 1 atui » of iioh -'au- ecu- '•lu- ite MO •h a zone of rain about 120 miles in breadth, heaviest on the inner edge, wh 60 miles distant from the centre ; that the fall of rain decreases in prop( distance from this line; and that the fall on the inner edge, bfing ab> hondrcdth of an inch per hour, the decrease is about one-uundi dth fox miles of removal. •' In order to follow out the -views of Colonel {Sir W.) Beid, the British cons; the vice-consuls at the Azores kept regular d 'ily tables of the direction and *'<' winds, between Ma^, 1840, and mv., 1841 . and the courses of twenty gal occurred were compiled from them, and the details of them t^re given m thf tical Magazine,' as before quoted." .._.,„: ■,.,.; ^ '>■ From the particulars of these twenty gales, of which the courses have been rately observed during the years 1840-41,-|- ther<> apppears to be some general c( sions which may be. dteduced. The first circum^tauce developed hy the inquiry l general direction of storms passing across the Azures. The coincidence ot this en \vith the Great Atlantic Current, which is a continuation of the Oulf Stream, wl may every day be traced to the neighbourhood of the Azores, and which the sud -i rise of water in those islands (where, having been hastened by a gale, it is sudd* checked in any locality by the operation of the -w ind, accompanied by a diminuii of atmospheric pressure) proves to be sensibly carried beyond them, goes very far identify the Azorean streams with the tropical gaks and nurrioanes traced in the &bkf work of Colonel Reid, from the South American coast, along the course of the Golf Stream to Cape Hatteras, in North America. There is a further resemblance in their their diameters. In the chart which Colonel Reid Las composed of the great hurri- cane of October the 10th, 1780, the diameter given to it, in the latitude of the Azores, is about 550 miles. Of the Azorean gales under consideration, four were about this diameter, eleven of about or under 660, and five under 900. With respect to navigators, for whose benefit these inquiries are chiefly intended, the use which may be made of this knowledge of the courses, taken by storms across the Azores, is in the direction of vessels which may b reached by them. It seems probable that if a ship were caught by a violent gate in the current of the Gulf Stream, near the Azores, her best course would be to steer, so far as tlu'! veering of the wind would allow, due North or South ; that if sht- steered to the eastward, sH(i would accompany the gale, and bo overtaken by the greater violence of its centi'e, * In the Azores a southerly -wind creates great humidity in the atmosphere ; a northerly wind removes it. Under the former influence, there is frequ ontiy two per cant, of water iu the air; under the latter, less than one. t The commencement of these gales was on the folio-wing days. -vi?. : — 1840, June 4th, Aug. 19th, Oct. 3rd, Oct. 7th, Oct. 9th, ?fov. 2nd, Ncv. llth, Nov. 14th, Nov. 28th, Doc. iHt, Dec. 6th, Dec. llth, Dec. 16th, Dec. 27th; 1841, Jan. llth, Fob. 3rd, Feb. llth, March (1th. Afarnh 19th Se«>t. Sth andS^t 18th. 5d6 DESORIFTION OF THE ISLANDS. anid that by Meering to the West f&he would sooner meet the centre^ mn into a new gale. Whatever may be the cause of the occasional deflection of the Azorean stomu, whether it arises fixnn collision with another storm, or from atmospheric eravitation (the radiation of hMtt from the islands bein^ always very sreat), the uniform effect appears to be a diminution of their progressive vjlocity, and frequently an increase of their rotatory fbrce. But as fiir as these effects can be foreseen, fit>m a knowledge of the deflection (vk- sumin^ it always to be accompanied by a slower progression), it is worthy oi ob- servation, that the deflection never appears to take a turn to the northward, bnt always to the South. If this be true, tne safest course for a ship in these gales ia to the NorUi, unless there are very cogent reasons for a departure from this presumed rule. , 8T. MICHAEL'S. — The island of St. Michael consists of a number of mountains, hills, and declivities, which are evidently the production of volcanic eruptions. The moimtains and hills clearly indicate, by their conical figure, and tlie cavity at their summits, their being the production of fire, and bear unequivocal marks of the cffi'cts of this destructive agent, m an accumulation of lava, sconie, and volcanic sand. Externally, the volcanoes appear exting^uished, but they are supposed still to burn internally and invisibly. Of this, Caldeiraa, or fountains of boiling water, in the Valley of Furnas and other parts, are evident symptoms. There have existed three principal craters, whose vertices now form three great lakes, situate toward the centre and the northern and southern poilions of the island. From those craters vast mountains have been thrown up ; and, in proportion as these ceased to vomit forth matter, partial eruptions burst out, and formed the lateral hills and declivities, which extend tnemselves m every direction from th^ mountains surrounding the lakes. The cessation of fire tsom the different craters has been attributed to water, which appean to have gained access to each, and suddenly extinguished the effervescence of its mineral contents ; and the fire now seems confined to stations, where it operates only in boiling the water with various degrees of activity and force. The island, at length, seems to be of such a structure and confirmation, that the waters pass freely throughout its volcanic caverns, and are easily forced out without shaking or disturbing the earth. Of these extinguiished craters, that (the Sttk CSdadea) in the N.W. part of the island is the largest, and is about 3^ miles long bv 2 miles broad. The interior is occupied by two lakes, and the ridge bounding it u nearly of equal height throughout, except where it rises into peaks, and on the jV.W. presents a gap between two hills, 1,620 and 1,770. feet high. The second crater i« about 3,060 feet hiffh, and is called the Agoa de Pao ; it is m the middle of the island, and situated in a large mass of pumice stones. Agoa das Furnas is the third crater, 095 feet high, and in it arc the hot-water springs, but it is not so high as that of Alagoa Grande. From Agoa das Furnas tne mountains of pumicc-Ntonc continue higher, forming a continual range as far as the Pico de Vara, the highcHt of which is 3,560 feet above the sea, and is the only summit on the island where snow is found. After Gonzalo Yelho Cabral had succeeded in establishing a colony in the Island of St. Mary, discovered in HiH, he landed on the N.W. coast of St. Michael, in 1444, and the extensive plains he saw apncorcd to him to be so capable of being highly cul- tivated that he returned immediately to St. Mary to make preparations tor coloiiiziiif; his newly-discovered country. But when he went there the following year, witli everything necessary for the establishment of his colony, what was his surprise when, in the place of the plains, he found an enormous mountain, wliich had been elevatid on them, with an immense crater. This mountain is called the AUigoa de los Hetk Cidadeg, on which are tlio two lakes Layoa Orande and Layo Aztil, oh nieiitiuniil before. After the elevation of this great mountain, the island remained tranquil until 1322, when an eruption overturned the two hills Sorirat and Rubicali and I'n- tirely destroyed the town of Villa Fram-a, and 4,000 inhabitants also lost their lives. in 1663, an eruption occurred of the Pico Sapadeiro, and a large current of lava ran THE AZORES. ri;.=iy' ^m^- 557 r run into a new | into the sea on the North side. In 1591, seven shocks of earthquakes occorred, and VUla Franca was again destroyded. In 1638, the island to the West was found as Kimeasi stonm, eric flrravitation 3 timform effect ly an increase of ! deflection fpre. s worthy or ob- northward, but n these gales is a this presumed iT of mountains, eruptions. Th« cavity at their ks of the cffi'cts uiic sand. ed still to burn f water, in the re existed three ward the centre «e craters vast to vomit forth iciivities, which the lakes. The , which appean vescenco of its t operates only ation, that the ed out without :hat (the Seik milcM long by boundinff it is d on the N.W. cond crater is le of the island, is the third s not 80 high f piunice-stoiic the highfNt of where snow is as described elsewhere. In 1652, some hills near Ponta del Gada threw up an im- mense quantity of stones and cinders, spreading destruction around. In 1691, after some very violent earthquakes, several small islets appeared not far from the coast. In November, 1707, a torrent, attributed to the breaking of a waterspout, fell on Ponta del Gada, and caused great damage. In 1719, a new island appeared in the West, also mentioned hereafter. In 1720, a succession of violent earthquakes injured the towns and villages, and shook down great rocks from the clifis, &c. La 1744, Oc- tober 5, another fall of water occurred, washing down the valleys of Fovoa^ao and Fayal de Leira, carrying away great parts of two villa^s. llie cause of these.floods, not now unknown, is still luiexplained. The great Lisbon earthquake in 1754 was also felt here, but there was no eruption. In 1806, a mass of rock slipped from the vdley of the Furnas, leaving a chasm 100 yards in diameter ; and in 1811 a similar fall occurred close to the same place. The eruptions of August 11, 1810, and of Sa-. brina Island, June 13, 1811, are described below. In 1838, another landslip occurred at the Furnas. In 1839, December 5, a rise of the sea, like that in 1755, washed down several houses, &c., on the South coast. The last earthquake which was felt here was that which devastated Terceira, in June, 1841, of which a description is given in the notice of that island. The circumstances attending the formation of Sabrina Island are described as follows : the island had previously been apparently quiescent.* In the early j»rt of the year 1811, a most awfiil and tremendous explosion of smoke and flames issued from the sea at the distance of half a league from the shore at the western end of the island. From the depth of about 40 fathoms, in the ocean, issued smoke, fire, cinders,, ashes, and stones of an immense size. Innumerable quantities of fish, some nearly roasted, and others as if broiled, floated on the surface of the sea toward the shore. Thus a dangerous shoal gradually formed.f On the 10th of June, the crew of the Sabrina, British sloop of war, obseived two columns of white smoke arising from tho sea, which they supposed to arise from an engagement, and made sail toward it, but were disappointed hy the wind's dying away. The israokc continued to ascend, wiUi volumes of flame, and they then concluded it was a volcano. Next day they were close in with the land of St. Michael, and found the volcano still raging. They learned, on tho island, that smoke was first observed on the 13th of June; two or three days previous to which there had been felt repeated shocks of earthquake in the capital of St. Michael, which threw down seveiil cottages and portions of the cliff toward the N.W., so that destruction was feared on the island ; but these ceased 80 soon as the volcano broke out. On the 18th, the Sabrina went so near to the vol- cano OS she could with safety, and found it still raging with unabated violence, throw- ing up, from under tho water, large stones, cinders, ashes, &c., accompani'.d with several severe concussions. About noon on the same day they observed the mouth of the cratci- just showing itself above tho surface of the sea, where there were formerly 40 fathoms of water. At three p.m., same day, it was about 30 feet above the sur- face of the water, and about a furlong in length. On the 19th they were within 6 1 the Island of hnel, in 1444, ng highly cui- tor colon iziiiK ng year, witli mrpriso when, been clcvaftd (Ht lie Ins fktie , as mentioned lined tranquil iciil and t'o* st tlii'ir lives. t of lava ran • The approAimation to an eruption has, however, at times appeiirod to hiivo boon very cloBO. Oa tno lltli of August, 1813, at tho hour of ten p.m., slight shocks of an oiirtli- quako were folt, wliich continued, at intervals of a few mmutos, lor four lioiuit. IJotweon two and throo o'clock next morning, a di'eadful rocking was experioncod tluoiigliout tho whole island ; several houses, unable to resist its violonco, were thrown down, and many oUiers wore greatly damaged ; and such persons as sought nafoty in tho open air woro dashod to tho ground. On tho uastom side of the island an oriiico wan discovorod, romjinbling the cniter of a volcano, and out of which flames occasionally burst forth ; but thoy do not ap- pear to have boon accompauiod by any ejection of vocanic matter. • Tho flames were first soon in tho niglit of tho 1st of Fobruary, but invisible indications of its operations had boon folt in nhocks on tho island from tho middle of the preceding yesr. I'xm oimorvod nituaiion was H. vV. of Point Fnrraria, and duo West from the I'lco de Oinotos, af about Ij miles from the nearest fthorn. The >)rig fiwift, with till her crow, were lost oa this spot, before tho existouco of the shoiU was known. i» DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLANDS. or 6 miles of the volcano, and found it about 50 feet in height, and two-thirds of a mile in length, still n^ng as before, and throvring up large quantities of stones, some of which fell a mile distant from the volcano. The smoke drew up several wate^ spouts, which, roreading in the air, fell in heavy rain, accompanied with vast quanti- ties of ftoe black sand, that completely covered the Sabrina's decks, at the distance of 3 or 4 miles. On the 30th they proceeded on a cruise, leaving the volcano about 150 fe^t high, and still raging as fbrmerly, and continuing to increase in size. On the 4th of July they agsin visited it, and found that a complete island was formed, and per- fectly quiet. The captain and several officers landed won it, and found it very steep, and its neight frnn 200 to 300 feet. It was with difficulty they were able to reach the top. On the 17th of June, Captain Tillard, of the Sahrma, accompanied by Mr. Reid, the British consul, with two other gentlemen, proceeded overland to the cliff nearest to the volcano ; and which was between 300 and 400 feet above the level of the sea. The first appearance it presented was that of an immense body of smoke revolving in the water almost horizontally, in varied involutions ; when suddenly would shoot up a column of the blackest cinders, ashes, and stones, in form like a spire, and rising to windward at an angle of from 10" to 20" from a perpendicular line. This was rapidly succeeded by a second, third, and fourth, each having great velocity, and overtopping the preceding one till they had attained an altitude as much above the level of the eye on the chff as the sea was below it. These bursts were accompanied by explo- sions of the most vivid lightning, with a noise lik'.' t > continual firing of cannon and musketry intei-mixed ; and, as the cloud of smoki i . .ed off to leeward, it drew up the waterspouts, above mentioned, which formec* a beautiful and striking addition to the seen. Subsequently the islet fell by degrees into the sea *, and, in the middle of October, no part was left above water ; but a dangerous shoal remained in the place which it had occupied. In February, 1812, smoke was discovered still issuing out of the Hea near the spot.* In June, 1841, Captain Vidal, in H.M.S. Sti/x, anchored in 10 fathoms, on the site of Sabrina Island, and found that the least water thereon was 15 fathoms. St. Michael's contains one city, five principal towns, fifty-four parishes, and about, in 1840, 39,098 males and 41,711 females, total 80,809, living in 19,72« houses. The coast is very bold, and may be approached without fear in almoat every part, the N.W. side excepted. Its military strength consists of 300 or 400 ti'ouiM, with a militia of several thousand ^asantry, whose arms are the pikes with which they drive their cattle. The principal fortification is the castle of St. Bras, which is close to the sea, and the western end of the city of Pouta del Oada. It is mounted with 24 pieces of canon, but few of which are capable of service. A league to tho eastward are two small thi-cc-gim forts, inHufflcient from decay and nogleet. The island, notwithstanding, has many strong local holds ) and scvoial of the IuUh and luisses, if judiciously fortified, would bo impregnable. The landed rental is estimated (1851) at £16(i.()00 a year: it exports 38,000 quar- ters of corn, one-half to Ireland, valued at £00,000 ; and 100,000 London size boxes of oranges to England (with tho exception of about fimr cargoes sent to the United States), valued at £40,000. In IHOl the value of the fruit exported was £10,000, and in 1850 at about 05,000. In 1852 the orange ci-op is expected to amount to 150,000 boxes ; value, £00,000. The number of vessels calling to trade annually is 250 British, 150 I'ortuguesc, and 10 foreigners. TiiK City of Ponta del Oada is tho chief scat of commerce, and contains 20,(M)0 inhabitants. This town appears exceeiliuf^ly pleasant from the offing. Tiicru is a mole for the protection of small vessels, but those of greater burden compelled • About 1/5 loBguos to tho westward, a volcano, w .ich ha. ^pptmred in ie;)8, broko out from the soft in 1719, and disiippeiiroil in 1723. A depth oi'MO i .'.horns was iiftoiwanlH fouml 1'^-^^- Outlitu of the land ovtr Ponta del Oada. The road of PONTA DEL GADA, off the principal city, has good holding- jjround, on which ships may ride safely, excepting during gales, from W.N.W. to S.8.E. Should a vessel be forced to quit the anchorage in winter, by a southerly • An escsUont and detailed account of St. Michael's, its geoloKical formation, its nftturtil productions and general particulars, is given by H.M. consul, Mr. Hunt, in the " Journal of tho Royal Ooogrnphicul Bocioty, vol. xv., 1846, p. 268, it uq. MO DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLANDS. gale, it will be beRt to round the western end of the island, and await a shift of \rind from the N.'VV., which commonly succeeds a S.W. wind. ThuB may the roadstead be easily regained ; but, by running to the south-eastward, it may be ten days, or more, before you can beat back to the road. In beating up, keep close in shore, only avoid- ing some rocks, which lie near Ponta de Galcra. Fresh water is easily procured in the craft of the island. ' In 1846, it was announced that the following signnls had been established and shown from a flagstaff at the custom-house ouay : — 1. A red ,/%r-— vessels at anchor should immediately weigh, on account of the weater. 2. A iohite flag — vessels in sight may safely make for the anchorage. 3. A red flag with white border — vessels must not send their boats on shore, landing being dangerous. It was also stated, that four buoys had been laid down in the anchorage, whicli would considerably reduce the risk of vessels leaving their anchors and chains behind them when they leave the roads. Those coming in on the northern side of the island, must be cautious of not getting embayed near Kibeira Grande, as there is no good anchorage on that side in case of^ shift of wind. Thk road of VILLA FRANCA is sheltered by the Porto do Ilheo, a remark- able volcanic rock, having a circular basin in its centre, with an entrance to it on the N.E., fronting the town of Villa Franca. The entrance of this basin has 7 feet of water, and is just broad enough to admit a small vessel, llie basin is about 100 fathoms in breadth, and has had a depth of from 8 to 18 feet ; the bottom of sand and small stones. This place is resorted to by small vessels for the purpose of careening, &c. It affords shelter from gales between West aad South ; but, as a part of the S.E. side is low, the wind from that direction throws a heavy swell into into it, and renders it dangerous; and vessels caught with this wind must be scuttled, as the only way to save them. Not more than four vessels can lie with safety on the outside, in winter, under shelter of the rock on the N.^., where there are 4 and 5 fathoms of water. The ground near the town is foul and dangerous ; but it is stated, that a ship may lie in 8 or 9 fitthoms, between the town and islet, by fastening a hawser on shore.* The Porto do Ilheo is a great natural curiosity ; it having been originally a volcano of great height, whose apex has fallen into the caverns beneath, and forms the basin. Ite appearance is extremely rugged and irregular. On its South side is a remarkable detached rock, distinguished by the name of the Pyramid.^ Of Villa Franca, Tofino says : — " It is situated on a beach, which forms but a very small bight. The channel between the islet [Ilheo) and coast is of the width of 3 cables' length, or thereabout, and is its pryicipal anchorage; it has 10 and 1 1 fathoms of water, sandy bottom, and vessels moor North and South, with a hawser on shore, on the islet ; but the latter, owing to its diminutive size, does not shelter a vessel from the wind sea, between E.S.E. by South, to S.S.W. The town is capacious ; and water, with all kinds of provisions, may be had here." Tlie breakers seen to the N.E. of St. Michael's will be found described in the next section. , ■ '-.-...•; .•'■:'■,/.■•■ > * There is a rock and reef (the Lobeira Rock) lying S.W. by 8., three-fourths of a mile oflf Point Albufeira (which is 4| miles East of Villa Franca). It is not volcnnic, but hai always boon knoMm, It is not on the early charts. i> In a letter to the editor, dated 28th of May, 1828, Captain LivinRston says:— "The Ilheo seems to be tilling up with sand. The most of the rook is a kind of conglomeratft of lava, in detached pieces, sand, dobris, and pumico-stono, and on the East side it seems gradually wearing away. Tho highost part appoiirs about 80 feet high. There aro culti- vated terraces on it, with cane-reeds, planted lor shelter, and they grow not only potatoes liud maize on it, but there are oven .* fow poor vinos, and some fine heath 3 to 4 feet in height. " The sir.g;i!.".r volcanic reak of Gamarinha*, on the West end of tho island, was tho last active »-olcuno in St. Michael's." PORT CAPELLAS. Ml led in the next Don Vincente Tofino, in his description 6t St. Michael's, states that Point Fer- RARIA, the westernmost point of the island, is high and sloped, but a low point pro- jects from it into the sea, so as to form a rocky ridge to the S.W. At the distance of a league from land this ridge lias over it from 7 to 10 fathoms of water, and a heavy sea rises over it, veir high.* The little harbour of MosTElROS, to the N.E., serves for boatB only. Of the islets here, the largest is high, sloped, and smooth at its summit, with an aperture, through which the sea passes from one side to the other. North Side of the Island. — Between the Ponta dos Mosteiros and Ponta da Bretanha the land of the coast is high and rocky, and it forms the Bay of Joam Bom ; at the bottom of which appears a very sharp-pointed mountain, called the Pico de Maffa, which serves as a very useful mark for ascertaining the coast. Within the Ponta da Bretanha, and extending eastward, is the long village of Bretanha. The country here is highly cultivated, and pasture land. The Villa da Hibeira Grande, already noticed, is rich, stored with all kinds of provisions, and abounds- with good water, but landing is practicable only when the sea is very smooth. PORT CAPELLAS.— The following description of this small harbour on the North side of St. Michael's is by Mr. Hunt, the British consul : — " Persons having stated that the bottom of the North side of St. Michael is foul in the anchoring depths, and that no vessel would be likely to recover her anchor if she brought up there, I thought it may duty to take the earliest opportunity of proceeding thither, with the agent for Lloyd's at this port, for the purpose of ascertaining the ti-uth of these assertions. " The result of our survey was, that at about half a mile distant from the shore, between Ribeira Grande and Capellas, there is a line, which, with occasional projec- tions towards the land^ separates the foul and stony bottom of the coast from a per- fectly smooth and firm bed of fine sand, sloping to seaward ; that, along this line, the depth varies from 25 to 35 fathoms ; and that, from the rugged nature ^f the coast itself, the small port of Capellas is the only part at which it would be safe for boat« tx) disembark." In a small plan, also by Mr. Hunt, the marks for anchoring are, first, the outer point of the port on with the Morro of Rio Grande, bearing E. by S. ; and, second, Point St. Antonio on with Point Minho. The N.E. Point of the island is Ponta da Ribeira ; at If miles to the S. by W. S. hy E."] from this is the Ponia del Arnel, having a small port of the same name, lut it is unsheltered, and the bottom rocky. The two points are of equal height, but between them is a slender bay, with sloped rocky land, in the middle of which is a very remarkable glen, wherein is a small river. The distant view of St. Michael's is sometimes deceiving, in consequence of the haze which frequently covers the land ; and the following observations will be useful in explaining anj' uncertainty which may be felt in making this island. Captain Midgley says :■ — " On the 26th of September, 1840, at daylight, I hauled up on a N.E. by E. course, by compass, to make St. MichaeFa, with a moderate S.S.E. breeze and fine clear weather. At noon saw the West end of the island bearing N.E. | E., and although the weather was apparently clear in every other part, a small portion of the land could only bo seen, the remainder being covered with clouds and haze. The above bearing and observed latitude placed the ship 31 miles from the West end of the island. At three p.m. saw the eastern extremity of the land distinctly, but could not make out the land in the centre of the island ; indeed, the haze which hung over it so completely deceived me for some time» that I considered two islands were in siijht, and tnat I must have made some mistake in my observations ; but, on drawing nearer to the land, as the sun apjtroaehed the horizon, the fog dispersed, and I had a good sight of the centre of the island also. After sunset, the evening was fine, with [: * Thoro is a similar ridge, with islets on it, extending about a league from Point Mutogos, the N.W. point of the island : it has from 2 to 6 and 7 fathtmiB over it. 4 R DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLANDS. (wrtae fAMt weather. At eight p.m. the light of Ponta Ferraria was aeen at 10 tnilca off— but ttueh a Uffht ! had it not been marked on the Chart, I could not have \h lieved k reflected from a lighthouse established for the direction of shipping— the light Wtes really miserable : and, as it was not shown until long after every trace of daylight had oisappeared (for the weather was quite dear, aira a careful look'«tit kept for it), the fight which was seen might have been reasonably supposed to be iQiat of some fisherman or passing vessel. (It has since been stated that no lights ate exhibited.) " On December 31st, 1841, 1 intended to pass to the southward of St. Michael'i, but a scant wind obliged me to bear up for tue West end of that island, on passing which it had again the appearance of two separate islands, with well-defined ex- tii>mities to each, the land in the centre being coveied with fog and haze. When seen from the northward, on the following day, it had again the same appearance, that of two separate and apparently well-c^fined islands." ISL£ OF ST. ICABY. — ^The preceding desorintioii of the appearances of St, -Michael's will apply generally to St. Mary^s, and the other islands. The town is on the South side, towara the West, on a bay, in which there is an islet ; and between this island and the land is the anchorage, with a depth of 6 and 6 fiithoms. For the position of the town and the chief points of the isle, see the Table.* St. Mart'h has a town and three villages, with about 4,S00 inhabitants. Its chief productions are wheat and barley, of the first quality, vnth wine and cattle ; but onlv sufficient for its own consumption. It has water in abundance, but of wood little, and a scanty proportion of fi:uit and vegetables. " The Island of St. Mary is about 7 miles in its greatest, and 5 miles in its smallest, diameter. It has nearlj in the centre the double-peaked mountain of Pico Alto, 1,880 feet in height, which falls on the East and West sides .to a shelving base of about a mile in breadth, and 850 fieet above the sea. To the North and South it throws out a range of undulating heights, which terminate at the sea in lofty nraral olifik of mo|e than 200 feet elevation. The East side of this range is covered widi hills, diminishing in altitude as they recede firom the centre, and intersected by nume- rous gorgfes of increasing width and depth, the channels by which the heavy rains of winter reach their points of discharge. The West side is a slightly inclining and on- dulating plain, also cut by ravines, terminating in oliffis more than 100 fbet hwh. The aspect of St. Mary's is therefore on all sides perfectly bold; the central peak custinct; the subordinate range high and of varied outline ; and the coast abrupt preoipitoui, and based by the usual accompaniment of fallen masses. « In its geology, St Mary's is not like the other islands, where the surface of recent volcanic matter conceals wnatever may have been their original constitution, or the progress of their growth. It is of trap formation, and contains in its beds of marine shells proofs of ito elevation from the sea, but there are some points of similarity in its stioicture to that of St. Michael's ; this is also the case with respect to Madein, and still more to Sicily ."f " On the Slst of Deoembe|;^1841," says Captain Midgley, " at sunrise, with very clear weather, I made < St. Mary's, ' bearing E.N.E. bv compass, distant 45 miles, at which time the land appeared fh>m the deck to be like two small well-defined papti rising out of the water close together ; but on a nearer approach on the same bearing il appeared like a saddle land, which appearance it retained until the summits of some of the lower hills became visible." * ImmenBe quantities of molliiscat, or sea-worms, are certain signs of the proximity of St. Mary's. Some of them are of a white colour, or of arrow-root mixed with hot water, fliid are about 18 inches long, with orange spots on them, like the eyes of a peacock's tail. — A. Livingston. « a\/ui I n descriptiuu of St. Mary's by Mr. consn! C. Hunt, in Journal of the Royal Geo- (^rapliical Hocioiy, vol. xv., 4845, p. 2G0,' et $eq. THS AZORES. M» ice, but of wood PoifTA Do CABTBLto, tbe S.E. point, ii Ugh, and has a break, whieb forms a peak, in the ehape of a «entry-box. A Teaiel may an^or •mttk this point S.W. vy S. [8. by W.}t and close to it in 10 fathoms, bottom of sand. On the Eastern Coast, at 24 miles N.N.E. [ JV. V FT.] from Pta de Castello, is the Pottta do$ Cedro», which is likewise high; between these is asmall jpofait, otf which is a low rock, at 3 or 4 cables' length from the coast, called Mutha Rock, hat between it and the coast is a clear passage of 12 fathoms, in mid-channel, at half-flood. At N. by W. [ JV: W. hy N.") 4f miles from Pta dos Cedros' b Ponta dot Matoa : be- tween is the 1%. de la Fnteira, with the Islet and Port of San Lourenzo. "Die point ia is high and remarkable, when near th^ coast : the ialet is likewise high, and« on tiie eastern side of it, has a cave, into which the sea enters, and where a boat may he sheltered. The Fort of San Loubenzo is formed by the Islet and Ponta dos Matos, which ore a foil mile distant from each other. The bottom is sandy, and between the points is a depth of 10 fathoms, increasing gradually outward, but the depth of an- chorage should not be less than twenty fathoms. Water may be readily obtained hereby making hollows, or mnall pits, in the sand on the beach, where the least ex- cavation produces water of the best quality. There are several houses and a church ' ohwe to tae beach. The Ponta das Laooinhas is the N.E. point of the island. The Islet Lagoinhas, which lies off this point, is high, and sloped like a mitre ; and, on bein^ seen, in an East or West direction, exhibits a small level point, extending a little way into the sea. A rock, lying between the islet and land, obstructs the passage to large vessels. The Nobth Side of the island affords neither shelter nor anchorage ; the whole of the western side is low and unifoim. The Port and Town are situated, as already noticed, on the S.W. side of the uland. The bottom here is sandy, and in some parts rocky, with from 10 to 4 fathoms of water. The rocky part is on the western side, and the eastern is the clearest. The Ponta da Marhao is the easternmost part of the bay, and this, with the next point to the eastward, Malbutca, form a larger bay, divided into two ports by a black point, Pedrera. The coast hither, fcam Point Marbao, is the most regular, and is called Fiatteral ; on the top of it is a remarkable rugged mountain, but it is not so high as those on the North side of the island. Ponta de Malbusca is high, and stands at a distance of two miles to the westward of Ponta de Castello, the S.E. point of the island. TherRoAD of St. Mart is open, and exposed to southern gales. On this account it is resorted to, in summer, by small vessels only, in order to be ready for a start, it iit proper to anchor to the S.E. of Marbao Point, opposite Figueral, already described. The best, anchorage, known to the pilots, is about a mile from the coast, in a line with Malbusca Point, and with the castle at the S.W. part of the town of St. Mary en- tirely open of Marbao Point. Here is a depth of 36 fathoms, bottom of sand ; but, at a short distance eastward, the ground is foul. Hence it is that Port San Lourenzo, on the N.E. side, is considered as the best anchorage about the island. At either place refretihments may be obtained, as at the other islands, with the addition of par- tridges, which abound here. THE F0BMIOA8 BAITK AND SOCKS lie N.E., true, from the N.E., and nearest, point of Santa Maria, 19| miles distant.* It is formed bv a submarine * Captain A. T. E. Vidnl, who has surveyed these islands, brj'b, with respect to Tofiuo's representations of the Foniiiiras : — " It is with rogret and vexation I have to state that I " ' " this uum - „ , . differencs in bearing is on a distance of 22 mUes. Although my observations on board the vessel with 064 DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLANDS. moQntain of very irregulai* elevationi and which, traced to the depth of 200 fktboniB; was found to extend 6| miles N.W. to S.E., hy about 3 miles in greatttt breadth. Near its western marg^ there is a narrow olnster of black rocks, known as the Fotmigas, (or Anta), wmch are about 800 yards in length by 150 in extreme breadth, their reladve direction being N. 25° E. and S. 25" W., or North and South, true. The southernmost of them, for about 350 yards, forms rather a closely connected man, and is in lat. 37° 16' 14" N., long. 27° 47' 6' W. 1843, 26° 17' W. Variation, August 17th and 18tii, The most elevated rock of the group, named Hormtgon, by Toflno, is 35 feet in heu^ht, and stands on the eastern side, about 200 yarcb from the northernmost rock, and somewhat more isolated than the others, and having an inclination to the south- ward. With smooth water there is no difficulty in landing, particularly on the southern rocks ; but in strong winds or a high swell the sea roUs over them all, leaving a blank naked surface entirely devoid of vegetation. At 130 yards South of the southern Formiga is another small rocky shoal patch, visible at low water, the channel between having 5 to 15. fathoms. Again, 600 yards South of the South Formiga is another small rooky patch, having 4| fathoms on it at low water. It is steep-to on all sides but the North, where it is connected with the rest by irregular depths of 8 to 14 fiithoms. On the Noith the Formi^s may be approached within a few yards, but a narrow ridge runs out 400 yiurds with varying depths, but no danger. It has 18 fathoms on its outer enfti, and immediately drops on to 30 and 50 fathoms. On the East and West the Formigas are quite clear, with deep water close up to them ; on the West the bank extends half a mile, but all very deep water.* Tofifio thus describes them : — " The FoRMiOAS are some rocks which navigatots have considcared as extremely dangerous, imagining a great part of the space here- about to be strewed with simken rocks, and tnerefore to be avoided ; but, having ex- amined these dangers, it is proved that the whole of them are visible, concentitkted, and clear, and t^t vessels of any burden may steer for them, in order to pass on the North and South side, as may be most convenient." Other rocks also exist, as shown in the next paragraph, at the distance from them of about 3^ miles to the north-eastward. We derive our knowledge of the latter throagh the favour of Captain Livingpston. . DoUabantts' Shoal> — To the S.S.E. of the Fonniga there is a danger, which was shown on a chart of the Atlantic Ocean, 1766, but afterward omitted m other charts, from want of positive information as to its existence. This shoal was seen by P. Dollabarats, commander of the ship La Marie de Sehoure, in 1788, on his lotum from Martinique to Bajyomie. On the 7th of March, at 3 p.m., when about to double the Formigas, at the distance of three-quarters of a league, Le descried a breaker to the S.E. of his ship, which appearea to extend a league true North and Smith. He observed, that it lies S.E. 5° 8. {trtte), at the distance of 1| leagues from the Formigas. sextants perfectly cnnfix-med the true bearing 6btained with the theodolite, I was unwilling to think Tofiuo could be in error. I therefore landed again the next afternoon a little later, to have a lower altitude, and that second day's result was Punta Castello S. 29° 2' W.,and Pico Alto 8. 40' 36' W. ; Toflno or his people are therefore in error." This correction will place the danger about 3' of longtitude to the eastward of its assumed position, and in the same latitude. • Account of the Formigas Bank, by Captain Alox. Vidal, R.N., Joiunal of tho Eoyal Oeographical Society, vol, si».j 1849, p. 160, THE FORMIQaS BANK AND ROCKS. 665 A new and very Iteautiftil brig, the ZiUah, Martin,' of Dandee, bound to Hayti, itnick on a sunken rook *< off the' Formigas," '' 10 o'clock in tiie night of' the 9th of April, 1832, and was abandoned at 3 .p.m. o. e next day, having then 7 feet of water in the hold. About midnight sne 'was seen to go down. Cubw picked up and saved by the ilfor2ey, of London. Captain J. D. Markland, of H.M.S. BriUmM a letter dated 20th February, 1882, writes : — ^" I hove-to for the night between St. Michael's and St. Mar^s, being anxious to see the Formigas Rockis ; and soon after daylight, 'with a thick morning, we felt in 'with a very dangerous shoal breaking heavify, apd as the fog cleared away we saw the Formigas. When the rocks and the shoal were in one, the shoal bore from the rocks S.S.E. about 3 miles. This must be the DollabaraU^ Shoal. Ilie For- migas are properly placed." In confirmation of this statement, the following appeared in the Shipping Oa- tette : — Notice to Mariners. — Lisbon, Dec. 6th, 1843. A notice has been issiwd by the Minister of Marine, to the effect that a shoal, 'with 11| feet of water on it, has been discovered about 4 miles to the south-eastward of the " Formigas," or Great Fonniga Rock, in the vicinity of the Azore Islands. Captain Yidal has set the question at rest, and has accurately fixed its position. " DoUabarats' Shoal bears (8. 44° E.), true, from the Formigas, distant 3^ mues, and is in bit. 37° 13' 30"N. We anchored close to it, ana scoured the ground with our IxMtts. It is a feaiful danger : the least depth we found on it was 11 feet at low water. " It consists of two or three rocky heads or knolls, which at low-water springs have only 11 feet of water on them. At that time of tide their position is marked by several large white patches, which may be ^tinctly seen, especially so in bright sunny weather. The shoal is near the southern edge of a rocky ridge, which extends from it N. 15|° E. 1 6-1 0th miles. The soundings over it are most irregular, varying from 14 to 50 fathoms at its edges, but there are no actual dangers on it. llie DoUabarats' Shoal is a very insimous danger in smooth water, but in stormy weather the sea breaks over it with great 'violence." TuLLOCH- Reefs. — lu 1808 Captain William TuUoch, of the brig Equator, of Portsmouth, New Hampshire, on a voyage from Madeira to St. Michael s, was alarmed by some of his erew seeing breakers. He counted distinctly twenty-one heads of rocks, none of which appeared to have much water over them, and two of the rocks show occasion^ly above water in the wash of the sea. I^eir extent, the captain thinks, did not exceed half a mile from North to South, and was still less from East to West. They bore E.Npeared in 1638. It u also stated, that in 1720 an island appeared at the S. W. ex- eme of St. Michael's, about a mile. from shore ; this, perhaps, is connected with the other statement, but is not very circumstantial. But we have the following accounti of this oocurrenob :— Mons. SSgur Dupreyon has found some documents relating to it in the French colonial archives ; the first states that at the end of 1720, a voloano broke out at 28 leagues off St. Michael's, towards Terceira, which formed two shoalt. A second statement affirms, that it ejected large quantities of pumice. A plan was also forwarder! to France of the new islanded, though ijt could not be approached, in consequence of the jets of bciliug water which were thrown upwards of 120 feet high. The consul announced that, on July the 7th, 1722, this new island had sunk down, and could only be distinguished by breakers.* In the " Philosophical Transactions " is a much more complete account of this volcano. It is dated May 12th, 1722. In that commimication, it is described as lying 17 lei^es S.E. from Terceira. " Hie lire broke out on November 20th, 1720, in the night, and the prodigious noise it madi* "^ansed an earthquake, which shattered down many houses in the town of Angra and places adjacent, to the great terror of the inhabitants." The governor went to tke island a month afterwards. " In the after- noon, we made an island all fiire and smoke ; we continued our coui*se till the ashes fell on our deck like hail or snow all night. We bore from it., the smoke and fire ixMured like thunder or great guns." " Prodigious quantities of pumice-stone, and half-broiled ^sh, were found floating on the tsea for many leagues round the island, and abundance 6f sea birds hovering about it." " This island is almost round, and siwposed to be about 2 leagues in diameter. By good observation, it ia 38° 20' ; its long. 26* 33'.t More recently a dangerotis shoal has also been reported to exist between Saint Michael's and Terceira, r b-~n at the latter end of 1848. These notices were trans- mitted by H.M. consul, ':!. G. Himt, Esq., to Lloyd's. In substence they are as follow: — Benjamin Pratt, of the William, on December 31, 1848, saw breakers, mast loiah, evidently caused by a shoal, and not by a floatingmass. The observations then tuen place it in lat 38° 16* N., and long. ^0° 41' W. The next is the declaration of Victonno Falcao, of the Tres Amigot ; — Ou° December 31, 1848, saw a shoal when the sea broke th6 height of a ship, at intervals of about ten minutes. By calculation it is in lat. 38° 18' N., and long. 26° 50' W. The third is the declaration of George Perkins, of the Plymouth .•—On December 25, 1848, 1 saw the sea breaking heavy at the distance of 2i or 3 miles to N.N.W. A heavy sea was running, and the water broke 60 feet hi^h in different places, at intervals of about ten minutes, as if on an extended shoal, having several neads. It was certainly not a floating obstruction; I consider it a narrow reef, about a mile in length, running from N.N.E. to S.S.W., about 40 miles W.N.W. \ W. (by compass P) from the N.W. point of St. Michael's In Mr. Hunt's observations on the earthquake of 1841, presently alluded to, he says : — " It b by no meanf< a great stretoh of hypothesis to suppose that the late earthquake has, like some former on.'^s, been accompanied by the ejection of subma- rine volcanic matter, which may have been thrown up within a short distance of the sui^use : so that, in fact, in that part of the sea wnere there was previously 200 fathoms of water, there may at this moment exist a most dangerous shoal. " As in navigation the extreme of safety should always be chosen, the commanders * Comptee Bendus de I'Academie Frangaise, 1838, p. 302. t " Part of a Letter from T. Forater, Esq., F.R.S., to Mr. Machin, Sec. R.8." Phil. Trans., 1722. To this description are attached several views of the island, which were taken at the time. TEECEIRA. 867 commanders of veswis anproaohing Terceira woald do well to keep a good k-o«t, an< -^ pre- pared for indications of shoal water, at from 15 to 20 miles to th astward e. it. Another annoanceinent is, no douht, connected with the same volcanic c> itre. It ig in the " Nautical Magarine," July, 1843, p. 482, entitled » Malabar Bank." Ex- tract of a letter ftrom Capt. Sartorins :— •< In lat. 38° 67' from the observations at noon, and long. 26" 5' hv chronometer, and from sapposed most correct bearing of the land, the north-east end of Terceira, taken at 8 a.m., given lat. 38" 67', long. 20" 66', the ship graxed over, apparently, a shoal of about her o^ length. There was no midden shock, no appearance of discoloured water, or any other indication of the vicinity of rocks or snoals ; and at the time the motion was felt the ihip was going 8 knots, wind aft, and studJdingHMiils set. >* I immediately shortened sail, and sounded with 180 fathoms ; no bottom. There was too much swell to risk a boat for examination. My own individual opinion is, that it is as likely to have been the shock of an earthquake as passing over a shoal.'' This spot will be about 30 miles to the noi-th-east of the reported situation of the mibmarine volcano above described, and if the reader will turn to the Ethiopic Memoir, 1844, p. 80, he will find that a submarine shock and grounding on a shoal give precisely the same sensation in a ship. That this was a shock that Captain Sar- torius felt, there can be but very little doubt, and it is most probable from the same volcano. We must, therefore, recommend to the seaman's notice the cautions of Mr. Hunt, as g^ven above. But notwithstanding all this evidence, there has been no indication of any shoal or elevation found in a search all over this channel, as no bottom has been found with from 180 to 200 fathoms of line. This, however, only proves that there is no present danger, but it is quite possible that the volcanic action mdden here is capable of rais- ing the bottom to the elevation above described. TEBC£IBA.-^Thi8 island is fertile, pleasant, and healthy ; the lava districts here, as at St. Michael's, produce excellent vines, although nut equal to those of the Cwcries and Madeira. The land yields large crops of wheat and other grain, pasture for cattle, and a prodi^ous quantity of lemons, oranges, and all those fruits of hot and cold climat^ which are propagated to the greatest advantage in temperate countries. The capital, as already noticed, is Anora, on the South side of the island, having a harbour, defended oy a fortress, in which resides the governor of the Azores. Angra u distinguished by several handsome churches', convents, &c. Be- sides this, there is another town, JPraya, and fifteen villages, all of which contain ' about 30,(K)0 inhabitants. In the bay of Angra, and around the island, flidi, of a good quality, is abundant. llie coasts of Terceira are high, and so surrounded vrith craggy rocks, as to render the island almost impregnable. The interor is, in general, mmlerately hieh, but the western side is higher than the eastern, and is distiuguished by a rugged mountain, extendingnearly East and West, and of which the western extremity, Pico de la Serreta, is the most elevated, lliis peak may be known by a great break on the eastern side, at a short distance. DESCRIPTIONS, &c.— The part of the isUlnd* in which Praya is situated, is the most fertile of the whole ; on wnich account it was the part selected by the first dis- coverers for their residence, and ite population was entirely agricultural. It is the part from which levies were principally made to resist the landing of an expedition in favour of Don Miguel, in August, 1829 ; when a small military force, with their Assistance, and the possession of the strong forts on the Bay of Praya, beat off the much superior force of Don Miguel. The town of Praya had, in the year 1614, been totally destroyed by an earthquake, which considerably injured the town of Angra, and was severely felt in the Island of * The following account of the island, and the great earthquake of J841, we have token from a communication, by Mr. x. G. nunt, the British consul at St. Michaers, to ttie " Nautical Magazine," September, 1841, pp. 631—633. (i68 DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLANDS. St. Miishael. Since that time it had escaped injury, although menaced by many leyere shocks of earthquakes. On the 12th of June, 1841, at 4 p.m., a violent shock of earthquake was felt at Pmya, extending with diminished violence to the westward. At fi^ 29', a second and more violent one was felt ; the trembling continued throughout the 13th, and on the 14th an undulation destroyed all the buildings which had been weakened by the Ibrmer shocks. The inhabitants of Praya then retreated to the fields for safety. During the 14th the motions were slight ; but on the 15th, at 3 a.m., a violent trem- bling and horizontal undulation commenced, and continued, with intervals o( about ten minutes, until 3'' 30' a.m., when a strong vibratory and distinctly visible rocking motion of the surface threw down the entire town of Praya, and injured many other parts of the island. ITie ground remained comparatively quiet until 2'* 40' a.m. of the 16th, when another violent shock did further damage. After thi« no fiirther damage was done, but the island did not become perfectly quiescent until the 26th of Jane. It was observed, with respect to the whole progfress of these phenomena, that the motion was greatest at Praya, where a rent has been left in the gi-ound of about an English mile in length, from the edge of the water stretching westward ; and that every convulsion was preceded by a loud subterraneous noise, resembling thunder, w exactly varying in intensity according to the severity of the succeeding shocks of earthquake, that the first became the harbinger and gauge of the other. The number of houses destroyed was estimated at 800, besides other considerable damage, amounting to the value of £180,000. The less severe shocks did not extend beyond the Island of Terceira, others were experienced pf^ apparently equal force at St. George and Graciosa, and only that which destroyed Praya was felt (but not severely) at the capitals of Pico and St. Michael's. At Fayal, and at the eastern end of St Michael's, no motion was per- ceived. It is therefore probable that the origin of this earthquake was a submarine volcanic eruption, and that its position or centre was about 17 miles due East from the eastern eiMof Terceira.* This has been practically confirmed by the accounts of the volcanic shoals before described. Angra lies on the South side of Terceira ; it is the capital of the island. At the town provisions are cheap, and in plenty. The bay may he readily known by means of a remarkable forked hill, near the sea, on the West side, named Monte Brasil,\ and by two steep little islets, called the Cobras, or Ooats, which lie about 4 miles to the eastward of the mount. About 2 miles to the south-eastward of these islets is another, called Los Frayles, with breakers near it. ; ; , •,.'. i. ( ■.< In approaching from the S.W., South, or S.E., steer directly for Monte Brasil. Should the wind be adverse, when approaching the land, tack boldly without the bay, as there is a sufficient depth over it, and up to the shore. But beware of a calm, as the currents are very strong and variable. If you have not a leading wind, when sailing up toward the mount, avoid too near an approach to the coast, between it and the westernmost part of the island ; as it would in a calm be attended with the utmost danger ; the coast being iron-bound, a ship driven on it would be in a most perilous situation. The Bay of Angra is open to all winds from S.S.W. by the South to the East. The swell from the S.W., in particular, which sets round Mount Brasil, on the western side of the bay, is tremendous. The ground at the entrance is foul, and ships ahj side of Vessel the win^ mencen appearaij shelter. • This proposition has been ingeniously argued out bv Mr. Hunt, from the various de- grees of intensity that the shocks were felt in the different bearings and distances ; by arranging these together, it fixes the centre of the action as above. t See the particular plan of the Road of Angra, on the Chart. er considerable TERCEIRA. ' "Mji ship! ahoiild alwayiiinbbr to the northward of Fqirt St. Antohio^ wlilioh ii on 'the We^ side of the bay. Vessels may sa&ly remain in the road in June, Joly, Augnat, and Sepiamber, when the winde are light, and prevail from between West and VlW. Bnt, on the com- mencement of winter, the winds from the offing rage so violently, that, upon the least appearance of bad weather, it is requisite to put off to sea, the coast affording no sneltei'. Porto Pfaya. or PBA YA BAY, on the eastern side of Teroeira, has been described M the hurgest and safest bay in the Azores. " This bay," says M. Flenrieu, *< has the form of a orescent ; the pomt toward the ^orth has, ajt its extremity, a small islet to the N.E. To lie in the best place, this islpt laiist shut in, yntii, Hke point, and tiie two towers seen on the bottom of the bay must bo. brou^t togeiher ( you tnll thien be in 24 fitthoms, sandy ground, the town bearing N.N^. and North. You may aim anchor nwrer to the shore, in 20 and 16 fatnoms. The iKMits must not attempt to bnd at the bottom of the bay toward the S.W., en aecotint of a sand-bank, upon which they would ground ; but they will find a good lailding-place near the castle." The FOLLOWING is a more particulab detail of the Coasts of TEBCEiftAi abridged from Tofino. The Mount of Braail, near An(^, is moderately hish, and has two small oolnmns, or pillars, at the top,' which serve as look-out places. The hill descends ffently toward the North, and at its base, on that side, is the CVtotfe/ or Fort of St. «/iMn,.the chief defence of the island, and particularly of the city of Angra, which stands to the nirthward and N.F of it. From the citadel, a line of wall and- batteries extend to Fnt S. Antonio, on the East side of Mount Brbsil ; the opposite, or N.E. side Of the ha.y,iaietejidedhyFiirtS'.Sehatitian. Aferchant vessels regularly addio^ in the line of the forts S. Antoido pnd S. Se« bastian, or rather furtfi^ in, tnooring with' th6 four aneUors. This is nec^sasary, the bay being open to the sea from S.o.W. by South to East^ and-therefore Extremely untafe when windl^ from those quarters may be expected, the coast being mostly, of sluup rocks. Large ships anchor to the eastward of Mount Brasil, in from 30 to 40 fathoms of water, sandy bottom, and they must be ready to get underway in the instant that the wind appears to be coming on from the south-eastward or south- westward. On the western side of the castle of S. Sebastian is a little beach, slightly sheltered by a wad of the castle. It is called Puerto tie Pipae, and is the.,spO:, inierein flshing- vessels are secured, by grounding them on the sand. It may serve as "% landing-place when the wind will not allow you to land at the mole.* The boats of the island come out so soon as iany vessel is seen to anchor, and by them supplies may easily be obtained, even while keeping under way, taoUng in and out, as mey will oring >7ater, wood, and all kinds of provisions. The Ponta de lot Continendos is the S.E. pmnt of the island. It presents an eminence, having three peaks on its summit. At about halfway between this and An«ra are the Ca^eu or Ooata, already noticed, wUch lie S.E. by E. TJE. by &] 4 miles from the summit of Mo^nt Brasil, and two-thirds of a mile frop the nearest part of the coast. Of .the two islets, the eastern is the largest and highest: when seen from the East or West, it appears like a wedge. Bet\reen the islets is a channel for row-boatb, with! from 8 to 10 fathoms of water: between the«n and the coast a ship may pass, as there axe 9, 12, and 13 fathoms of water, with sandy bottom, and rocks neai shore only^ ' "■ ;r; ' . The IVaylet, or Friar's Isle, before mentioned, is a low islet, having two pyramidal ~*^ A shoal extends from the S.E. side of it, about a cable's length, over which * It is sometimes much easier to U^ on the rocks under the cliff, on the Moanii. Brasil ride of the ba*", than at Puerta. is, YspiS^, A fsctpath, of difficult ascent, marku tu« ytmyw spot to attempt landing at, — A. ■£. ■ ■ .• -^ •* C - at. *i* #TO DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLANDS. the aea breaks. Several cliffs on the idet sive it the appearonoe, at a distance, of several isles. A ship may pass, with all safety, in the channel between this and the Cabras, the depths being from 60 to 75 fathoms, gravelly bottom, and clear ground. The eastern coasts of Terceira is generally broken, rocky, and dangerous. The easternmost point is that named Mahneranda, which is high and oblique, with a large , shoal near to it, which shows itself at low weter. To the south-westward of this point is the town of Prata, defended by battencs. The bov on which this town is situate is of great depth, with good holding-ground, and a fleet may anchor here, sheltered from the South, by the West, rouud to the North, but entirely exposed to the east- ward : the safest anchorage, therefore, is with Point Malmeranda in a line with the northern islet, Cameiros, and the highest tower or steeple of the town, which is the liorthcrnmost, open to the West. Ilerc is a depth of 25 fathoms, with sandy bottom; and, as at Angra, supplies may be obtained from the boats of the place. Remarks on Terceira, hy Captain Livingston, 1822. — " At about 6^ or 7 miles North of Angra, in a valley near the summit of the mountains, a great deal of steam issues from crevices of the earth, or rather clay, which clay, I am informed by a scientific gentleman here, is actually lava, decomposed by the action of sulphuiic acid. Some of the clay looks, when cut by a knife, much like Castile soap : it is of various hues, and the natives of Terceira use it as paint. There are small quantities of sulphur formed around some of the apertuies. The steam which rises b very hot: we cooked some eggs by laying them among the clay, at mere cracks whence steam issued. My thermometer ranged only to 152° of Fahrenheit's scale. I exposed it to the steam at the first aperture I reached, but the mercury rose so rapidly, that, from fear bursting the tube, I was obliged to withdraw it, I think, about three or four seconds. Persons visiting Angra, who have any curiosity in their composition, should see this furnaao or aouffriere. The access to it is by no means very difficult, though, if you ask any of the Portuguese, they will describe it as accessililc only at some periods of the yeai\ One may ride to within less than half a mile of it. Ponies, or asses, and guides, may readily be hired. " Some vessels, mistaking Praya for Angra, have stupidly run in there ; but the Goats and Mount Brasil are sufficient to show the most entire stranger the difference; I annex a skctoh of the former. Tlie Goat Rocks, as sketched at nine a.m., 26th January, 1822, when about 2 miles distant, the weather being hazy, and the tops of the mounteins of Terceira covered with dense masses of clouds. Point at the left bearing N. by E. by oompan, and that at the right hand N.E. \ N. also by compass. " Bloody flux is very frequent both among strangers and natives, and is often fatal. K Scottish surg«on there told me, it was the worst disease he mot in the island.* " Vegetables are excellent and cheap. Poultry and eggo good and reasonable i • It de««rvea to be known, that the si/e of a hazel-nut of Castilo soap, scrapod fine and diBflolvedm about tliroo wine-glasses of boiling water, to which add half a wino-gliMWof good spint.s, and a fow lumps of white sugar, scarcely ever fails of curiuir bloody flux. Two ..r thrpp doaea may be ranuired. 1 have trlsd it oa myself and oihors with irroat euccew. It jrvou ana otnors with groat succeM. PICO. 671 beef and mutton tolci-able, the furmor aliout threepence per pound. Some of tho island wine is tolerably good. The North Coast of Tbrceira should not be approached by a stranger, as it is rocky and dangerous. The western coast is also inaccessible. PICO. — This island derives its name fi-om the remarkable peak or volcanic moun- tain which stands upon it. The summit of this mountain, whose sides are neither very steep nor uneven, is terminated by a small sug^-loaf, so very regular, that one would think it had been made by art. The height of the peak, above the level of the sea, according to the geometrical operation of the Frepch astronomers, is about 1,172 English fathonis ; by the survey of Capt. Vidal it is 7,613 feet : and, consequently, in clear weather, it can be seen 24 or 25 leagues off; but it is frequently so obscured by clouds, as not to be seen at any distance. When the southernmost point of Fayal is in a line with the peak, E. by S., this mount appears c • shown before. The peak has been described as filled with dark volcanic caverns, which have frc- Suently emitted smoke, flames, and ashes, to a considerable distance. At the foot of lie mountain, toward the East, is a spring of fresh water, generally cold, but some- times so heated with the subtcrraucoud tire, as to rush forth in torrents, in a boiUng state, and sending forth a stream of sulphureous vapours, vitrified stones, &c. Fico, when the Peak (A) bears E.S.E. by compaM~-{h) E. by S. d reasonable; Pico contains about 22,000 inhabitant-i, who occupy three towns and eleven vil- lai^ec. The soil being stony, little grain is produced, and the greater part of the wheat and maize, for consumption, is imported from the neighbouring island^. The wine is the staple commodity, and is rej)utod the best in the Azores. This, with brandy, is exported in considerable quantities. The cattle are various, numerous, ond excellent ; fruit is abundant, and equally fine. Ucsides these, they have cedar and other timber, including a beautiful kind of yew, called Teixo, whicn is remarkably solid and fine. The S.E. point of the island, which is rather low and sloping, is named Ponta de la Ilha ! a ridge extends from it to the eastward, 1 cable's length. The next projection, on the South coat>t, is Pla. de Calheta, or Ncsquin, distant 5 miles, W. \ S., trite : between are the little harbours Muelle de Mantina and Nesquin, fit only for coastcrH, which may ground on tho sand, the bottom being generally rocky. At N.W, by W. [ W. by N-l (\\ miles from tho Pta. de Caleta is the Ptu. de Anife, which is rather more elevated : the coast between continues rocky, and is not to bo approached by Ktran^erH. Eight miles N.W. by W. [ IF. hy N.] from Pta. de Arrife, is that of Santa Catalum ; the coast between forms a slender bay, in which, at 2^ miles from tho turnicr, are tho town and lagoon of liOgens ; the latter communicates with tho sea by means of a bar, over which the coasters pass at high water. The fishermen have onothcr place of shelter, in Puerto Pruima, which is on the N.E. of tho point Sta. Cataliua. On the S. W. and West sides of the island is nothing remarkable, but its rocky ooaat and islets. From the Pta. de los Baxios, on the N.W. side, breakers extend outward, to the distance of nearly a league, during a galo. Off the most prominenr part of the western coast are the little Port and Isle of Ln Ma^^dalciia. From tlic town, which stands here, the greater part of the produce of th« island, for expoitation, is shipped off for Fayal in small row-bontH. The iHlft^ 672 DESCRIPTION ,0F THE ISLANDS. are surrounded by rooks ; but very near the latter the depths are 6, 7, and 8. fathoms, rocky gnmhd, • The North coast, from Pta. de los Baxios to the East end of the island, is altogether rugged, and may be considered as inaccessible. FATAL. — This island has been celebrated for its excellent pastures, fish, wood, &c. The air is always mild and pure ; the cold of winter never felt, and the heat of ^umm6r always tempered by refreshings winds.' Its inhabitants are computed at abont 17,000. The island produces wheat and maice, sufficient for itself and a part of Pico. The cattle reared here are not sufficient for the consumption of the island, and sup- plies are, therefore, sent from the neighbouring Islaind of St. George, which prodneei ^ giieat number. The annual produce of wine is also scanty ; for that which u 'exported here is mostly from Pico. V -'-'. ' Hayal, whtn the point (A) btari N.E. by E.\E.hy eompau, and (B) E. by 8, The chief town is Horta, on the S.E. side ;* and there are, besides, nine villages on the island. The name Fayal is understood to be derived from Faya, the beech tr^e, with which, and other wood, the island abounds. In the journal of Mr. Keilor, an intelligent master of the Royal Navy, it is stated that those who run for Fayal should not depend on the peak of the next island as a guide, because it is sometimes covered for five or six days successively. Mr. Keilor adds, Fayal has a good bay, opposite to Pipo, which is formed by an isthmus, extending to the S.E., and a point about 1^ miles to the north-eastward. Water, in general, is bad and scarce. The S.E. point of Ff^al is a mount, with a hermitage on its summit, dedicated to Our Lady o/* Quia. (N.S. de la Quia.) Tlie North side of this is connected by a neck of lana to a smaller mount, of a blnck colour, Caimadu, at the foot of which tiie town of Horta commences. Near the mount, on the West, is a handy cuvc, Pvrt Pirn, where, in fine weather, some small vessels load and diwhiarge their cargoes, but ii is quite open to the S.W. The northern point of the Bay of Horta is named £8palamaea : iU bearing and distance ftx)m that of La Quia are N.E." | E. [N.N.E. ^ n!) If miles nearly. At the bottom of the bay is a beach of black sand, which commences near Point ENpolu- maca, and termmates at Mount Caimado. Within it is the town, facing the wa. In the latter are two very remarkable buildings, nearly alike : one of these m close to tlu! Bou-sidc, and waH formerly called the Company's College ; the other is in tho most wester] V part of the city, upon an eminence, and near tho Coi'melite Convent. These objects In a line bear nearly N.N.W. [JVT, 42^ W."] Nearly in mid-channel, between Fayal and Pico, is a rocky shoal, the Chapman Jtode, of 3| fkthomH ; it is about 20 fathoms in extent from N.E. to S.W. [N.N.E. to 8.8. fF.] and 10 broad. The marks for it are tho Company's College and Carmelite Convent, above mentioned, in one; Point de Espalamanca, N. by £. [N.htf W.] 2 1-10 miles; and tho hermitage of Guia, N.W. | N. IN.W, by J W.] 1 6-1 miles. See, Airther, the particular Plan in the large Chart. The regular anchorage of Fayal is in the bay opposite to the town of Horta. It is the bcHt anchorugo in tho Azores, on every account, excepting that it is open to tlie • Seo the pai-tirulnr plan of the chHuncl between iVynl ««n,«i Pjco, cs tho Chufi. further det>cnptiou of these islundt), sue hercaitor. im « ■7* FAYAL. :, »/Jt.- KZ winds from North to N.E., and from S.E. to S.W., and these winds -are frequent in winter. That frY>m S.E. is very destructive, it blowing right in. Those who anchor dionld, therefore, always be prepared for a start, on a shift of wind. The safest method is to let go the anchor in 35 or 40 fathoms, where the bottom, is of sand, at about 1^ miles from the town, which will be with the Point of Joao Diaz a little open to the right of Point Espalamaca, and the Companv's College in the town a little to the southward of the Carmelite Convent, already aescribed. From this spot a ship may depart with any wind. ."^'liv , ' '^ :« ■'■■'■ la the summer season and favourable weather, the general anchorage is #iththe two buildings in the town as above described, but nearer to the town, in 25 fathoms, gandy bottom < small vessels proceed further in, to 20 or 16 &th(mi8;* To Sail in for the Road, if fivm the northward, no further directicm is requisite, as the way is ^rfeotly clear. If coming in from the S.W., with a free wind, the regular pa isage IS between the mid-channel shoal and Mount de Guia; or if more aneeable, between the same shore and Pico, according to circumstances. With the wind from the West or N.W., take especial care to avoid the shoal, by observing the marks for it, above described. If, on approaching the road from the S.W., the wind should be dying away firom the eastward, and jaa. intend to tack, so as to gain the anchorage, keep over toward Pico, within the distance of a mile or a mile and a half; because at a little frirther out the bottom is rocky, and you cannot anchor, in case of necessity ; besides, by pro- ceeding thus, you will be free from variable eddy winds and calms, which are caused the mountains; and the coast is sufficiently clear. SouTHiiRN Coast of Fatal. — The Point af Santa Catalina, whioh is 3f mUen- nearly W.N.W. [ ^> i -AT,] from Quia Point, is of low and black rooky land, and it lULewise has a hermitage ; between these paints is the cove of FuteirOt with its beach and village. Near it are several iHlets. The Point Castelo Bianco is the S.W. point of Fayal. It appears like a little round mountain of moderate height, sloped on every side, so that at a distance it ap- •^ean like an island. The coast hereabout is rocky, and aJSbrds no anchorage. At the West end of Fayal are the two islets named Capelinoa, lying in a South [S.S.E'] direction. Between them and the coast is a channel, which in fine weather admits fishing boats. The Point of Jorq» Lourenzo is the northern pointed Fayal. Its upper parrt is hi)(h and sloping, ^rom this point to the N.E. point Riveirina, the coast tronds B.E. [E.8.E.] Point Riveirina is high and sloped, and forms a ruimd front of about half a mile; at the foot of it is a low point, with three islets. S.W. by 8. [8. by W.^ from this point, nt 2 3-lOth miles, is that of JtMo Dtaz, which is low, olack, ana rooky, with rocks at its extremity. Between the points the coast forms a /slender bay I the land is high and oblique, and it presents, near the middle, a remarkable Blope of a red colour, whioh may be seen from the mid-channel shoal, called the bhoal of Fayal. At nine -tenths of a mile to the southward fh>m Point Joao Diaz is that of Eajtalo' maca, on the North side of Horta Bay. It is high and sloping, with a ttmall round front, having a vigia, or look-out, on its summit. Between mem points the coast is a little indontod, and has a beach, with a church at the bottom of it. Tiiulinir veHscls at Port Mogdulena, on the opposite side, when assailed by violent winds from th^ ' Muthward, frequently bear up, and find good shelter here. * Mr. Wm. Lano, agent to Lloyd's, in November, 18;^, gave notice that, for the use of voflaelx piiBsing through the channol betwoen Fayal and Pico, or those requiring assistance from tlw Hhore, ho hiMl eroctod a HiiHstaft'behind the (ku*!* »/ 9t. Cfus, 9s,ysl, anil proviuod iiiH tulo|;riij)U tUgH uf CiipUiio Marryiit, so as to onublu them to (.oiumiiuicnto any )ut'onBa< tiou thoy wiiih to bo roportod, or to acquire imuodiate iuwiatutic« in case of disU'(;()u. 074 DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLANDS. ST. GEORGE.— This island lite at the distance of 10 miles from Pico, and is sept. rated from Graciosa hy a channel 20 miles broad. It is a long, narrow island, about 29 miles long, and a little more tluin 3 in its avera^ breadth. On its South coast is the little town called Villa daa Velaa, or Velku, with a port where small vessels may lie sheltered from all winds. This island, when Tofino described it, contained more than 11,000 perrons, in three towns and seven villages. He sava that it produces much wine of a good quality, which it exports to Terceira and America. The island has been famous for its cattle, with which it supplied other islands, and its cheese is said to be fine. The produce of wheat and maize is equal only to the consumption of a part of the inhabittmts, as tlie lower class substitute the root of the yam. Wood and fresh water are abundant On the 1st of May, 1808, a dreadful volcano, seen from Fayal, burst out about the centre of this bland, in the midst of fertile pastures, about 3 leagues S.F. of Vellas. On the 3rd a crater was formed. In two days it had thrown ou^ cinders, or small pumice-stones, which a strong N.E. wind had propelled southerly \ und which, inde- pendent of the mass accumuuited around the crater, had covered the earth from 1 to 4 feet in depth, half a league in width, and 3 leagues in length ; then, passing the channel, had done some injury to the eastern end of Pico, fhe fire of this large crater had nearly subsided on the 3rd of May ; but, in the preceding evening, another small crater had opened, 1 league to the northward of tne large one, and ouly 2 leagues fit>m Vellas. In a short time the island, heretofore rich in cattle, com, and wine, was nearly ruined ; and a scene of greater deflation and distress had seldom been witnessed in any country. ' ' "' 'r'L'''''"t .^l^;^]*:^:^^;;^ V ' • The Channels among the Azores are in general clear and deep, and may be navi- gated at all times : that, however, between St. George and Pieo, should not be at- tempted, unless in settled weather, or with a steady breeze, for a sudden calm may prove fatal; as a strong current runs through the cnannel, according to the state of the tide. The PoNTA DEL ToPO is the easternmost point of St. George's Island. This point lies W. J N. [ W.S. W. % W."] 27 miles from the summit of Mount Brasil, in Terceira. It is of moderate height, with rocks around it, and near its eastern part is a low islet, likewise surrounded by rocks. From Pta. del Topo to Pta. del Norte Grand, the North coast presents nothing; re- markable. There are several breaks on it, but it is mostly low and regular. Hence to the West end of the island, Pta. de Hoaalea, it is more rugged and barren. Off the point last mentioned are several islets, of which two very high pyramidal ones ate i*emarkable ; one of these is at the foot of the point, and the other half a mile to the S.W. of it. To the W. by S., true, of Point Rosales, the pilots say that there is a rocky shoal of 7 fathoms. The sea may break over it in a storm.* From Pta. de Rosales to the Morro Orande (Great HillJ, near the Port of Vellas, the coast trends S.E. bv S. \_8.E. hy EJ] The Morro is high, of a blackish colour, and has a vigia, or look-out, on its summit. To the N.W. of the Morro, and on its skirt is an indent of the coast, wherein several vessels have been lost, by mistaking it for the Port of Vellas, the bottom being all rocky, and a vessel, once in, cannot leave it without a change of wind. Puerto de las Vellas. — At 1^ miles S.E. by E. \_E. hy S."] from the outer point of the Morro Grande is Pta. la Caimaida, rather low, with a small castle. Between the two points is the Bay or Port of Vellas to a good height, llius it jontinues ,'ii'«'v.A»t.i'»i' GRACIOSA. 575 to (he Pta. do lo8 Monteros, fhe S.E. point of the island, which is high and sloped. Four learaes from the Ba^ of Yellas is the Point de CaUta, whence a nigh mountain rises, wim a gentie acclivity, and close to it, on the East, is a town of the same name, whence much wood is exported to the neighbouring islands. ORACIOSA. — Oraciosa is said to take its name from its beauty and fertility in wm, fruit, pasture, and cattle $ supplying Terceira and several of the other islands with' a great part of its produce. It is the most fertile of all the Azores, and has about 8,000 inhabitants, distributed in two towns and two villages. The greatest extent Jof the island is only 8| mites, but in this extent the quantity of barley which is pro- duced is almost incredible, together with wheat, mause, wme, all kinds of fruit and vegetables. Of sheep, hop;s, and fowls, the inhabitants have more than they can con- sume. The only &carce article is wood, for this is obtained from St. George's and Pico, llie chief town is Santa Cruz, on the N.E. side. Ponta Blanca is the S.W. point, and Carapacho the S.E. The mountains over these points appear at a great distance like islands, particularly on approaching the South side from the S.\V. Point Carapacho is low toward the sea, and has several islets about it ; but at a little distance mland it is high and craggy. At two cables' length S.E. \_E,S.E.'\ from the point is the Islet ^&a/o, veith others in its vicinity ; but between it and the point the largest ship may pass, should it be necessary, to the anchorage of Praya, on the eastern coast. Between the Point Carapacho and the Ponta dos Fanaes, 1| miles N.E. f N. \_N. 14° E.'\ the coast is almost uniform and clear. At the last, the Bay of Praya com- mences, the North side of which is Pta. Negra ; the bearing and distance between are N. \ E. [N. 15° W."] 1 J miles. Pta. Negra is low and rocky, and near it stands the town of Pkaya. An islet, called the Isle of Praya, lies at half a mile East {^E.N.E."] from Point Negra ; it is low on the West side, but rather higher on the East, and tnere is a pas- sage between it and the point. At the distance of a cable and a half to the south- ward of the islet is the anchorage. At 3 miles North [AT.AT. W."] from Point Negra is the Point of Josef Ferrer, which is verv low, being even with the water, and having a dangerous shoal, at about 2 cables distance to the llast [^E.N.EA The coast between these points is rather re- gular than otherwise, with a few, little bights ; of these bights, tne first is close to Point Negra. The best anchorage about the island is with the Islet Abajo, lying near the S.E. point, in a line with the westernmost part of Praya Isle, or rather a little open ; this IS off the southern extremity of a great slope of land, extending toward the Point of Josef Ferrer. The depths are from 30 to 40 fathoms, sandy bottom. Here vessels load and unload, and are ready to be off with any winds ; but they lie shelteied only from South by the We^t, neai'ly to North. All the goods from the town of Santa Cnu are brought to this anchorage to be shipped, as they have no other. On the "West of the Point of Josef Ferrer are the bay and town of Santa Cruz. The coast is low, and the land rocky, with scattered fragments of rock about it. Close to the town, on the S.W. side, are three small hills near each other, and a church is on the highest part of every one of them. These, therefore, are good marks for the North si^ of the island. The Ponta do Pico Negro is the North point of the island ; it is hi^h, oblique, and of a very black colour. The coast hence to the S.W. continues high and rooky. From the Pta. de Fotseo de Porco, the western poimt, half a mile S.W. by 8. [8. 10° W.\ i3 the Point of Jorge Oomez, low and rocky, with a church near it. There is landing hero. At 3i miles from that point is Point Blanca, very high and sloping, within which, at a snort distance, is tne highest mountain on the island, 1378 ket high. The coast between is of high rock. On the summit of Pta. Frayle, northward of Point Blanca, is a stone that resembles a man. At S.E. I S. IS.E. by E.l E.} 2i miles from Point Blanca is the low and rooky 67S DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLANDS. Pbintof Folgo; the coast bettreen: forms a bay, and the village of Folgd is attUe bottom of it. FL0BE8. — ^This island contains about 7,000 inhabitants. It has two towns, botii on the eastern side, Sta. Cruz and Lag'ena, and four village. The chief productiom are yams; wiieat of excellent quality cattle, sheep, and hogs. The exports are wheat, olotns, baoon, with the weed or moss called orchilla, used for a dye, as already noticed. The latter is found clinging to the rooks and declivities, and is not obtainable withont great trouble and danger. • -■^^^. .=;;;*, iA>«rv.v.'-;;-'^ *iM'-^i«-> •,-:•>.;''•••'•■'■'■' ■ The island is very mountainmi8,^t much nkore so to^'i^ the South than the North. The Fort of the town of Santa Cruz is in lat. 39' 27', and Ions. 31^ 8' 37"; and to the West of it, in the interior of the island, is a rernarkiable peak, the Mono Grande, 3,687 feet high. The land is well cultivated, and has abundance of wattr, falling down, in numerous cascades, firom the heights.* PoNTA DEL Gada, the North Point of Flores, is of moderate height, smooth on its summit, not very projecting ; but at its base is a cluster of islets, extending outward a-quarter of a mile ; the ground around them is clear, '-v^.; PoNTA RuiVA, the N.E. point of Flores, is high, sloped, rugged, and obtuse. At the foot of it is an islet, called the Pan de Azucar, or Sugar-lou : a fishingrboat may pass between. In the bay to the westward of Pt. Ruiva there is anchorage in 25 fathoms, sandy ground, sheltered from winds frvm S.E. by the S^uth to W.S.W. It is frequently resorted to for water, or by vessels that are compelled by the wind to quit the eastern side of the island. The Point of Santa Cruz is 2f miles S. | E. [S.S.K ^H.'] from Point Ruiva. It IS low and rocky, with several rocks about it. in the interval is the Islet of Aharo Rodrieuez, very near to the coast ; and to the S.E. [^.^f,.-; -:.;;(v - -.;«-; i-:-: -'^r;,: Esmeralda Hock, lat. 45° 13' N., long. 16° 48' W. . - v v The barque Esmeralda passed a supposed rock, lat. 46° 13', long. 16* 48', by imper- fect D. R. It was thought to be 4 feet out of water by Captain Henderson, who was a passenger, t But Commander Dayman, in the Gorgon, in 1868, found 2,260 fiithoms at 46 miles N.N.E. of it, and 2,100 fathoms at 36 miles. D7INA Rock, off Gape Fmisterre, lat. 44° 46' N. long. 9' 40' W. (?) This announcement we received from Capt. Grote, of the Russian Imp. Navy, when b command of the Dvina, the vessel which was hardly chased by our men-ol-war in the Pacific during the last Russian war. " On Jan. 14 — 26, 186!i> the foretop look-out descried breakers right ahead, and we discovered it to be a rock. It is on a level with the water. Our olwervations gave us lat. 44° 43' 6', and long. 9° 37' 23' W. The sea was perfectly white with foam for about 200 fathoms." Capt. Bessarabski made it to be in lat. 44° 48', long. 9' 43'. We have nothing to disprove the existence of this, but the position is remarkable. It must be left for future test. , .„ ^ . ,, The charts of Van Keulen, of the last century, showed a rock in 44° 43' N., a.id 11° 22' W. ; but it has long been omitted as not authentic. • In the " United Service Journal," October, 1834, p. 199, is a lively description of a moonlight night at sea, during a gale, which concludes with that of a dreadful reef, sup- posed to be the Bail's Bocks. The communication is more in the style of a novelist than of seaman, and there is not a word on the situation of the reef.— See, further, Capt. Living- on's comimnication upon this subject, " Nautical Magazine," December, 1834, p. 737. I Naut. Mag., Apru, 1857, p. 221. % Ibi''., Dec., 1867, p. 67ar. a Bton' 009 DE8CKIPTI0N OF SHOALS, VIGIA8, ETC. iean 5Aoa/, 45° 32' N., long, ir 67 W. (P) " July 4, 1854, 6 p.m., perceived a ithoal rock with heavy hreakent right ahead} appeared to extend about an inch to the north-eastward. — Capt. Lean, schooner Mary. — Shipping Oazette. The remarks on the Devil Bock and the Dvina Rock, in this quarter, are also applicable to this. Mayda (?) 1105.— Clark's Book (f) 1842, lat. ifi" 40' long. 10' 17' W. (P) Mayda{f) — This vigia appears, on the French chart of 1766, in lat. 46"^ 48', and lung. 19° 50'. The latitude, according to Bellin, is uncertain, and its longitude more s'). A report, made to the Admiralty of Bordeaux by Pierre Nau, in October, 1705, states it to be a little white island. There is a note concerning it in the French Depot, but it disagrees with the report of Pierre Nau. Captain Baden, in the ship Mane, when returning firom Martinique, April 10th, 1738, discovered Mayda, which, according to his observation, he found in lat. 46° 10'. He remarked^ve heads of rocks, and a breaker of 6 or 7 feet high on the danger. This is the original information on thiis spot. But it was revived by the following : — " On board the bark Hartley, W. B. Bradford, master, bound from Sierra Leone to Plymouth, passed, on Friday, 26th August, 1842, at half-past 5 o'clock, p.m., in lat. 45 40', long. 19° 17' W., at the distance of three-fourths of a mile from the ship, a double-headed rock, which, during the fall of the sea, was uncovered to the height of 6 or 8 feet. The sea broke over it with a gentle spray, and during the rising and falling of the water it was observed to be of a dirty whtte colour, interspersed with dark coloured patches. Robert Clark, Senior Assistant-Surgeon to thp Colony of Sierra Leone." — Nautical Magazine, 1842, p. 852. This might, possibly, have been the carcase of a whale, but here is, another :— " When going out to the West Indies, in 1840, in lat. 46° 36' N., long. 19° 30' W., I saw a rock within 100 yards, of a conical shape ; it appeared about 4 feet out of water, in the trough of the sea. I should think it woiUd be under water in a smooth sea. — 2>. England. The general depth of the ocean hereabout, above 2,000 fethoms, throws every doubt upon these statements, unsupported by sounding^. The Five Heads, in lat. 44° 1 long. 19° 25' (P). Under this denomination the French churt of 1766 has a rocky shoal some part above water, in lat. 44° 10', and lone. 19° 25'. It is marked some nunntes more to the North on the charts of M. Van Keulen. No acc\>unt of it is, however, given either by him or Bellin ; nor, although sought after, has any account of it yet been found. Capt. Dayman found 2,375 fathoms near the spot. ' , Chaderton Reef, lat. 44' 56' N., long. 23° 51' West. (P) " On my passage from Caldera to Liverpool, April 20th, 1858, passed a reef of rock covered with water. Owing to the strong breeze blovnng at the time, I was unable tb make fiirther observation." T. H. Chaderton, commanding the barque Salu-cc- At 30 miles ~:i.SE. of this, the Dolphin found the depth of 1,500 fathoms. Laidman Rock, lat. 46° 0' N., 26° 0' W. (P) Probablv a volcanic shock. ' " * Isle Verte,(?) or Oreen Rock, (?) 44° 52' N., and Ion. 26° 25' W. (?) ITiis imaginary rock, the Green Island of the old charts, has been omitted in others, on the authority of Messrs. Verdun and Borda, who have said, " On M. Bellin's chart of 1766, in lat. 44° 52', and long. 26° 35', is an imaginary island, named the Isle Verte, authority BETWEEN LATITUDES 4»» ANJi 50\ 669 ht ahead i , schooner •, are also '.(?) r 48', and itude more ober, 1705, ach Depot, (hip Marie, da, which, ds of rocks, following : ra Leone to p.m., in lat. I the ship, a le height of e rising and persed with B Colony of another :— 9° 30' W., 1 out of water, oaooth sea. — even' doubt some part naore to the en either by been found. reef of rock was unable Salwceri ns. I?) Id in others, ellin's chart J Isle Verte, [island, but lie English no better Captain TuUoch, of New Hampshire, stated that an acquaintance of his, Captain Coombs, of the ship Pallas, of Bath, in Maine, keeping a look-out for Qreen Island, actuallv saw it, being^ a very fine day, and the water remarkably smooth. He went out in nis boat, examined it, and found it to bo a large rook or stone, covered with Screen herbage, or moss, some of which he pulled off. The rock did not seem much ai'ger than a vessel with the bottom up, and it was very smooth aioimd. The summit was higher than a vessel's bottom would appear out of the watf X; being about 20 feot high above the sea. Captain Coombs remarked that if it had i^ot been so high, he should, when he first saw it, have supposed it to be a vessel which had been upset. But a depth of 1,500 fathoms has been found near the spot. Oreeve'a Ledge, in lat, 44° 15', long. 25* 5'. (P) This is stated to have been seen by the Dutch ship Anna Catharine, Captain J. Qrecve, July 7, 1745, and to be nearly level with the sea. It is said to have been Keen by Captain Currie, of the brig Diana, of Port Glasgfow, 1811. Captain H. T. D. Siclcens, of the Dutch Marine, sailed over the spot in 1846, without seeing any- thing of it, with a good look-out. It lies midway between two soundings of 1,500 and 1,850 fathoms. MiDGLEY Shoal, in lat. 44° 9' 30', long. 22° 57' 46'. This shoal was discovered by Captain Thomas Midgley, in 1838, who describes it as follows : — " On the 14th of June, 1838, at 2'' 40' p.m., on my passage from Africa to Liverpool, I suddenly fell in with a large patch or belt of discoloured water, of a dirty gray appearance, much resembling river water, and rippling vety mttch, as if upon a shoal bank. No rock nor danger could be seen from the mast-head, but tho water appeared very much discoloured for more than half a mile in breadth, as far as the eye could reach, in a direction. N.W. and S.E. by compass. " The vessel passed at a quarter to half a mile from the S.E. point or extremity of it, which lies in lat. 44° 9' 30" N., long., by an excellent chronometei, 22° 57'45''^W. of Greenwich, and by account from Flores, 23° 5' W. ; the latitude deduced from the sun's meridian altituae, taken on the same day, with two excellent sextants, and the chronometer ascertained to be correct oflf Flores four days previously, and subsequently when off Holyhead in St. George's Channel. The altitudes for the time were taken a few minutes after passing the danger, and when it was still within 1 mile f "om the vessel. " In appearance this water very much reminded me of the shoal ground near Nan- tucket, and those on George's Bank ; had it been caused by ice, spme would have been seen upon the surface ; if by flsh, there would have doubtless been many birds h(,vt!r- ing about, which was not the case. " At the time I saw this danger, I was running with a favourable breeec nnd dear weather, and the contrast between the deep blue colour of the water, in ^viiich the vessel was sailing, and that of the danger I allude to, was noticed by ever j one on board. " I sincerely tegret my inability of closely examining the shoal, owing to my crew being on short allowance of provisions and water, in consequence of a long preva- lence of light and adverse wmds." The late Captain Midgley was a man of perfect veraci^, but the appearance might; have arisen from other causes. At present we have nothing ts contradiot it. WoodaWa Rock, near lat. 43° 20', long. 25" 10'. (?) . " Ship Indemnity, from Demerara to England, 1829, at 30' p.m., discovered a rock. on her starboard beam, distant about three ships' length ; a heavy swell from the- N.W. With each succeeding swell the rock was entii-ely covered, but at intervals it showed several feet abe^'e water, and perfectly perpendicular. From the mast-head it was seen to a great depth below the water, and. appeared to be in the shape of a- conc. At the preceding noon the latitude, by observation, was 43° 20' N., longitude, bv chronometer, 25° 10' W. At 28 miles N.N.W. 1,860 fathoms have been found." 870 DESCRIPTION OF SHOALS, VIGIAS, ETC. ' Amplimoxt Rocks, in kt. 42' 51', long. 24". In M. Bellin's Memoir of 1742, a danger ia mentioned in lat. 42' ^0', long. 24" 5', which was seen in 1735 by M. Guichardi, commander of the ship Dauphin, of Nantes. It has two points of rocks separated, and 30 feet above water. He ascertained the height within a league of the danger, which appears to be the same as that called La Basse tTAmpUmont, stated to be nearly in the same latitude and longitude. We have given it the position originally assigned by the Memoir. Some Euglishman has called it by tiie name of Edmund Knowles's Bock, by whom it is supposed to have been seen. These rocks, appearing like the two masts of a brig, and nearly in the position assigned, were seen by Captain MUls, in the brig Tamer, early in 1829. " On the 13th of May, 1842, 1 sailed from Paimboeuf for Quebec, with the wind at N.E. AVe had a fine run to long. 19"" 44' W. On the 23rd of May (at noon, in lat. 42° Sl'N.j by two good observations, and long. 24° 3' W.), at 7'' 20'jp.TO., I pasBcd a rocg within two ships' length. When I first saw it, it was a little before the larboard beam, and appeared like a ship's anchor buoy. When it came upon th^ quai-ter, I saw the sea-weed quite plain upon it, as did also the watch on deck. Another part of the rock we saw under water, about 8 or 10 feet from the rock we saw above water ; at intervals it was covered and uncovered. We had not much swell on at the time, Ane pleasant weather. At the time of passing the rock the ship was in lat 42" 51' N., long. 24' 15' W. The rock was seen a considerable time after we passed it. Wind at the time W.N.W. Ship's head, North, going 3 and 3| knots pur hour." — Captain Thomas Alderson, of the Morning Star. It was also said to be seen by Captain L. W. Duff, of the Esporanoe, on his voyage from Valparaiso to Swansea, on Nov. 19th, 1846. He was looking out for the Amplimont Ilocks, scarcely expecting to meet with them, when he was startled by a large and dangerous rock, with two uuintcd summits in the hollow of the sea, not ten yards off on the larboard beam. He could see no more of it after passing, nor the sea breaking on it, which it would do in bad weather. He had the day before passed Corvo, and found his chronometer accurate, and also the same on making Lundy Island. Ifis position of it is lat. 42' 56' N., long. 24° 30' W. We have given the mean of this and that by Captain Alderson as the position. We have no direct evidence to contradict this, and therefore it must be left for future decision. In all the cases cited there was no attempt at verification. *' Henderson or Chaucer Ba> ' , lat. 42° 45' N., long. 29' 0' W. (P) The ship Chaucer, Captain Robert Henderson, firom the Mauritius to Glasgow, states that : — «• On October 28th, 1860, at noon, wo were in lat 42° 4" N., long. 28" 46' W., steering N.W. by W. (true), with light variable winds from the eastward, and fine clear weather. Having ureviously observed that the water had changed colour about 10 a.m., and since that there was a sensible ripple, at 2 p.m. I sounded, and found hard bottom at 48 fathoms ; the distance run since noon about 6 miles. " At 4 p.m., having steered the same course, in lat. 42' 49' N., long. 29° 4', sounded and found 50 fathoms, and at 6 p.m., having run about 6 miles, round 70 fathoms, rocky bottom. " From observing the change of colour and ripple at the surface of the water, at 10 a.m., and having sailed from that time up to 6 jj.m. nearly N.W., the bank mov probably extend considerably to the S.E. of the position where I took my first souna- ing at 2 p.m." — Shipping Gazette, November lOtu, 1860. This appears ouite circumstantial, but yet 1210 fathoms was found, by U.S.8' Dolphin, at its S.E. extremity. ' . , ~. , The Three Chimneys, in lat. 47" 54', long. 29' 40'. (P) This vigia is said to have been seen on the 10th July, 1820, by Cajtain de Clai loiiff. 24" 5', t, ox Nantea. irtained the that called iti'dc. We lishmaii has oaed to have the position the wind at noon, in lat. ,, I patjBcd a the larboard 1^ quarter, I other part of bove water; I at the time, in lat 42" 51' 8cd it. Wind r." — Captain ranee, on his [g out for the Btartlcd by a D aea, not ten sing, nor the before passed lakinjj Lundy ,ve given the it be left for Ion. . to Glasgow, t. 28"'45'W., lard, and flue langed colour [sounded, and lies. ' 4', sounded 70 fathoms, the water, at le bank inov first sound- by U.S.S* iin de ('!»' BETWEEN LATITUDES 40" AND fiO'. fT^ Fernel, who approached within 2 leagues of it, and who remaiued two hours in sight of it, and appears to be one which a M. de Merry has mentioned. The charts vary with regard to its position. Thus much we have stated in our former editions ; but Mr. Heron, of Greenock, in 1824, adds, *' I am informed by the master of a merchant-vessel, that the Chimneys actually exist ; for a whole watch, as well as himself, saw them. They were seen about twilight, and three heads were distingmshed." Captain Roallons, iii tha brig Eagle, says that he passed a rock above water, at the distance of about 4 miles, on the outward passage from Hamburgh to Newfoundland, on July 29th, 1«42, "in 47° 37' 22% long. 28° sf; it formed three distinct points ; the highest to the westward appeared to be about 80 feet high, the sea breaking violently over the lower part, near the eastern extremity, but no appearance of woal water around it." This must have been ice. A depth pf 1900 fathoms has been found in the first-named position by the Dolphin. Mariner Kock, 46° N., 29' 35' W. (?) This rock, said to have been seen in 1831, by Mr. Swinton, is also placed 25 miles further Wggt • bnt it lies between two soundings of 1760 fatboms. Oot^h's Bocks, or Harrison's, in lat. 40° 28', loug. 30° 0'. (?) These rocks appeared in the chart of M. Rochette, 1778, with the words, " Rocks seen by Captains Gough and Birch." Yankeulen and Bellin have indicated several dangers in the vicinity to the N.E., but their existence has been denied by the pilot» of the Azores. Captain Livingston says : — " Captain Beauford, of the brig Concord, of North Yar- mouth, told me at Malaga, in 1820, that he twice saw Gough and Birch's Rocks, when bound from Newfoundland to Lisbon ; that one of them is about 12, and the other 3, feet above water ; and that they lie nearly in the longitude originally as- signed them in the charts, but 5' more to the northward." Another report states, that Gough's Rocks were seen by Captain Harriwn, in the brig Hope, from the Sierra Leone to Cork 17th April, 1830, lat. 40° 16', long. 33". At 11 a.m. two rook appeared close under the lee-quarter. In smooth water these rocks would be even with the water's edge, and in the hollow of the sea Captain Harrison could distinctly see six or eight down in the water. These statements are vague, and it is improbable that thev should have escaped detection by the pilots and others frequenting the Azores. 1116 bottom, however, is not so deep here as elsewhere, for 830 fathoms fathoms only wp£ found 20 miles to the North of Gough's position. Bcazkfj Shoal, in about lat. 40° 45' N., long. 36° 47' W. (?) . In the chart of the Atlantic Ocean, drawn up by M. Rochette, and published by him in 1778, there is a shoal of 5 fathoms, stated to have been seen m 1769 by a Spanish ship in lat. 40° 26', long. 36° 5'. '• Captain E. W. Beazley, then commanding the bark Castries, from the West Indies to London, on Sunday, June 20th, 1841, at 6'> 20' p.m., passed a shoal half a cable's length to the northward of the ship ; it appeared about the size of a large ship's quartor-dock, with the sea-weed almost awash with tho water's edge ; the sea rolU.'d over it, but did not break. Tho latitude and longitude places it in lat. 40°45'N., long. 36° 47' W." This statement, which cei-tainly does not appear to be lightly mode, but it seems to have probably been a floating wreck. Spanish Shoal, 1769. (?) Wahlstein Breakers, 1867. (?) A shoal was inscribed vaguoly in the old charts in '. T 26', long. 36° 5', as having ktu seen in 1769 by a Spanish nhip.— " Afluutic Mc ;i .b" 1812, p. 131. 6ta DESCRIPTION OF SHOALS, VIGIAS, ETC. Caption C. J. Wahlstein, commanding the Rumian barque Jtuneberff, on Scptcmbor dth, 1857, waain 40" 20', long. 30° 18', pamed through a very rough sea, which in i\ moment commenced breaking over the veHscl, and continued for 20 minutea. The wate? aiao changed colour for the same period, with all appearance* of ithottl water.- • "Nautical Magaiino," j>. A06. There is at present nothing to contradict this statomont. Jaquet Island, in kt. 40" 66', lung. 80' 30'. (P) Stated to have been seen again in 1789, but disbt'liuvod. A letter ttom Jersey, 3rd of April, 1838, states that Jaqu6t hie, in about 40" ill)' N., long. 32° SO* W., was seen by the brig 8ea-Jlower, of Jersey, at 6 a.m., on the 20tli of April, 1830 : liic weather nno and clear ; but no bottom was found at 100 fathoniH. Theude appeared to be half a mile in length, and about 300 foot, or 100 yurUN, hi^li above the surface of the sea. This must have been an ieeh«rq, althougli Mr. ].« Oros, mate of the Sta-Jlower, declares that it wan not. The depth hereabout is 2,Ner\'ed the water to bu discoloured t in consequence of which he twice tried for soundings, and found rocky ground at the depth of 100 fothoms. But Conmiander Dayman found no iMttoni with 3,(N)0 ftithoms up and down in 42° 07' N. and 41° 28' W., about 32 miles ott' in September, 1858. Notwithstanding that Cu.r' '- r Dayman's sounding of 3,000 fathoms so nonr Lieutenant Sainthill's positir -hich, however, he in not confident to half a de- gree of longitude), would ap|.».-j.iUv diNnruve it« existence, yet Lieut. Sainthill him repeated his statement : — "lean only tell you that I am perfectly convinced that wo touched bottom, which Captain Dayman would call an excellent up and down ca<*t. The arming of the lead showed sharp rooky l>ottom of fine blueish ashos, and my opinion is mat wo were over a submarine volcano in a state of eruption. — (" Nutit. Mag.," 1851, 200.) We muat leave these two statements to bo reconciled by Mure investigations. ''"''' ."^ " DruitTi Reef, in lat. 41° 19', long. 41° 25. (P) * On the 12th of April, 1831, Captain Trcadwell, in the Druid, of London, ^xmnX this reef on his starboard hand, at not more than 30 yardH distant. The reef had the appearance of ivom 7 to 10 sugar-loaf heads, and its length, iVom E.N.E. to W.S.W. was estimated at 10 to 14 feet. It was about 3 feet above water. A reef was hci-otofore inserted from the Spanish chart, as seen in 1803, lat. 41° 2-1', long. 41' 20'; but we ore not acquainted with the authority under which it hns been there introduced. It mtiy jmHsibly be a rock, said to be seen by Detmaires, a pilot, in 1083, who reported thut it appeared at the Iteigitt of a sloop ub«)vu the wiitcr. Hclliii assigned to tnis danger lot. 42' 0', long. 41 ' 10'. The nponish chart uImo cxhiliitN unower tngia, said to have lK bo found rocky I no bottom I miloM oH' in lonw so ncnr to half a

  • eotod to do. The lead was hove as soon as it could be got forward, but there was no bottom at 90 fathoms perpendicular. From an excellent observation at noon I consider it to lie in lat. 40° 18' N., long., by dead reckoning, 63° 40' W. The water for several miles aronnd it was dark, as if on soundings." It is very improbable that this can exist in the fairway between Europe and Ame- rica without having been fhMiuently seen.* ■'"■' ' ■ ,'" ' ■•-*»- •'• The virgin ROCKS, to the E. by S. of Capk Race \ lat. 46° 26' 30', long. 60* 66' 20'. These rooks form a dangerous reef, lying about 30 leagues E. by 8., true, tram. Cape Race ; in gales of wind a heavy sea breaks over them, aud a strong current, which lets abont them, often increases the danger. The existence of the Virgin Rocks having been questioned, it is proper to com- municate the following extract of a letter, addressed by Arthur Kemp, master of tho having run 84 miles, I was alarmed with tne cry of • Breakers a-head !' and almoRt immeuiatoly saw them to Huoh an alarming extent as obliged me to alter the course from 8.K. by 8. to E. by N., it not bring noHsiblo to clear them on the other tack. After giving the breakers a good berth, and leaving them to the southward, distant 4 miles, I hove the main-topsail to the mast, and lay by from ten o'clock till noon, ind observed in lat 46° 33, long. 60' 61'; the extent of breakers appeared to be • Mhtoc Osnnelioh, commanding the Sicilian brig Anna, at three p.m., June 8th, 1841, oUerved a shoal to" the South, dibtance ubout 2 mUcs, appearing like a ship with thiue m(Wt« of equal hPiKht. and iucliuinn: townnl the South, and alrout 60 foet high, Hunoundeil by nhoals level with the water; lat. 39» 3'i' N., long. 60* 60' W.-(" Niiutic.il Magii«ii.i)," NoTemher, 1841, p. 781.) "i'hid w manifestly an io»b*ro, worn i.-.to pinrmcies in ite southern progri..- ; hut T Viitpn it is noreBsnry to notice it here, as it has beeu placed on ii recent ("hart M* a pernt «nt danger. 674 DESCRIPTION OF SHOALS, VIGTAS, ETC. \^ \ about 2 miles, and weic more tremendously alarming th&n I Lave ever experienced during the 23 vears that . Ma/e (chiefly in this trade) commanded a vessel." The reef ImIi. r-ince heon >■ urveyed by Mr. Rose, master of H.M.S. I)ftw, who, with Captain Binhop, of H.M. orig Manly, has ascertained its situation. The following are the paiticulars : — The bank on which the shoal is situated extends E. by N. and W. by S. 41 miles ; its broadest part is about 2^ miles. The soundings are regular Svom 28 to 30 fathoms, until they deepen suddenly on the outer edg^ to 39 and 43. The i-ocks themselves are in 46° 26' 30" N., and 60° 65' 20" W. They extend in an irregular chain S.W. by W. and N.E. by E. 800 yards, Tary-ing from 200 to 300 yards in breadth, llie least depth of water is on a white rock, in 4i fathoms, with 5 to 6| fathoms all round it ; the oottom distinctly visible. Towaid the extremities of the ahoal are several detached rocks of frum 7 to 9 fathoms, with deep water between, and with a current setting over them W.S.W. 1 mile an hour ; and with also a very confiised heavy swell. The vessels were anchored upon the rocks for the cmace of two days, during which the weather was extremely pleasant, and every way mN'ourable for taking the most accurate observations. The surrounding bank haJs been noted as a gtxtd fishery. vVariation, 26° 30' W. ■A i Shoai. on the Bank of Newfoundland, East of the Virgin Rocks, lat 46" 30'. ' A shoal, with only 21 feet water on it, was discovered by Jesse Ryder, roaster of the fishing schooner Bethel (belonging to Provioce Town, Massachusetts), on the Grand Bank of N'd\Tfoundlana. In lat. 46° 30', having observed on the shoal, saw it distinctly, it being a rook of about 100 or 203 feet surface ; supposed it to be about 50 miles East of the Virgin Rocks. Shoal bears from Nine-fatnom Bank S. by W., by compass, about 1| miles ; discovered it accidentally while searching for the Nine- fathom Bank to fish od fishery. , kt 46" 30'. er, master of etts), on the Hhoal, saw it to be about nk S. by W., for the Nine- is, for I aP^r- ds, know this soupdings aro There are 17 thorns, on the . brown sand, rocky. The est part there iwx successive ^he longitude \vo year 1815, JJnited States' llled Ammen'f Iding the difli- lertainly mutt I June 5th and kia rook is 'i^ [pd with their Icient to prcM , hpving U'i>« direction, and Eularly o" the \iroion » omxi and the Malabar Shoal, by neither of wliich names are they now rec^niaed. A copy of the report of an actual survey of them, made under the oi-ders of Commodore Isaac Hull, by Mr. Felch, of the U.S. navy, and Mr. Edmuqd Blunt, jun., is contained in the *' Colombian Navigator," vol. i. p. 66. From this report it apjjears that there are, properly, fonr shoals on the bank, the whole of them included be*"'-e« latitudes 41* 34' N. and 41° 63' :«)' N., and longtudes 67° 18' W., and 67° 69' W. The largest, which is toward the S.W., is also the most dangei-ous. Between the shoals are from 16 to 35 fathoms of water. But these shoals liave been accurately surveyed by Lieutenant Charles Wilke»} of the U.S. navy, and the officers under his direction. It appeara by this survey that the general direction of the shoal ground is N,W. by N-, and S.E. by S., and it extends 13 miles in length, and from I to 2 miles in width ; the depth of water within this space being 10 fathoms and less, but very irregulai-. The two shoalest places are between 41° 40' 13' and 41° 40' 33" N., and 67° 44' 10' and 67'' 40' 30" W., and ai'e knolls of hard sand, having upon them, at low tide, 15 teet cf water. With the exception of these two places, the shoal may be ci'ossed iu any part by an ordinary (sized vchsel without danger. There is a np usually the whole length of the shoal, and, at times, heavy brefOcers in the shoalest places. Some other shoal patches of 6 fathoms lie at 28 miles to the S.W. by S., and 44 miles S.Wj by W. of the shoalest spot, and are called the Little George Bank, ■;. >J NANTUCKET SHOALS, extending from Nantucket Island. These very dangerous shoals, lying immediately in the line of traffic of the coasting ti-ade of the United States, have been bat very little known till within a very fov/ years ; and then their limits were more exactly defined at the expense of a priva ~» individual, Mr. £. M. Blunt, of New York. These '< Goodwin Sands" of the United States now, however, appear to be tolerably well examined, though still some doubt has been expressed as to whether their entire extent has been ascertained. They have been surveyed by Lieutenant Charles H. Davis, U.S. navy, snperlta- tending the hvdnwraphio parts of this portion of the coast uurvey. The danger 6f these torniidaDle uoals are reduced by the new lighthouse on Sankaty Head, coiA'- pleted in 1849. This tower is 70 feet high, painted in three horizontal rings, and Nhows a dioptric flashing light ; and also by the Liyht-vesael, which lies 2 miles to the 8. of Davis' So;ith Sh(Mil, showing two fixed lights. Some particulars are given of them on page 649. l^' . " Anm-ica Rock, lat. 40° 20' N., long. 63° 50' W. (P) The commander of the bark America, of Baltimore, thought he had discovei-ed a '-•ock projocting from 25 to 30 feet above water, and about 30U feet in circumference, September 1, 1846 : lat. 40° 20', long. 63^ 60'. It is very improbable indeed that this could have been a rock ; it looks more like a wreck, from the fact of its being in the high^ ay of shipping, and its locality having been crossed at least four times by the Great Liverjmol steamer alone, in 1838-39. It may have been a large tree, perhaps brought down by tiie Mississippi, and launched into the Mexican Gulf. An example of this is given by Captain G. P. Lock, of the Martha Shalla, of Liverpool, who, being becalmed in the neighbourhood of Munn's Reef (or lat. 39° 45' N., long. 64° 10' W.), was burpribed to hear the announcement of a boat's approach ; but, on referring, it was supposed to be Munn's Reef. A boat was got out to survey, when it was found to be a very largo tree, roots upward, ard 40 feet in circumference, and surrounded with shoH^ of fish. Had it not been so closely examined, it r.-ould have been again announced as Munn's Keef. ■OL.i.k IMAOINAEY SHOALS. lAind of But, to the S. of Iceland, in lat. 58% long. 30» W. Vii/ia'ot 1746. lat. &&' 24.. lonjr. 24° 40' W. Ramimau'it Vi-iin, 1750, 40° 42' N., 37° 30' W. } und anr thcr Bavencihy's Rook, 1726, lat. 4J° 60, long. U? 'lo. w. • - - viffia hiuf u degree northward. Bnretw y-yrv8 Rovka, 1722, lat. 48' 7 , long. 21° fr70 DESCRIPTION OF SHOALS, VIGIAS, ETC. BETWEEN THE LATITUDES OF 30 AND 40 DEGREES. DxnAhVB Rock, off Capb St. Vincent, in about 36° 30' N,, and 9° 16' W. 'fhe old charts of the Atlantic indicated a danger at the diutanoe of 12 or 15 leagues to the S.W. of Cape St. Vincent. This danger was omitted in the French qhart of 1786, and subaequently in other charts, fi:vm the supposition that, if it really existed, it must have received some modern confirmation. But it seems, from in- formation communicated by Captain Taylor, of the bri^ ~jaurel, of Whitby, that, in dbout 1813, the Dadaliu, transport, struck on this rock, and received so much damage as rendered it necessary for her to put into Lisbon ^or repairs. Captain Taylor was in the fleet when the Jbadalua strucK. Added to this, the brig Briton, Captain Stokes, was lost, 'n consequence of striking upon the rock, in December, 1821. After she struck she swung off, and then imme- diately triied for soundings, but got none. On finding the vessel striking, the people ^k to the boat, and were picked up by another vessel. Captain Stokes had not seen Cape St. Vincent, but supposed it, at the time, to bear N.N.E. I E. 28 or 30 miles. This information has been communicated by Captain Livingston, who says, " This information was given to me in Malaga, in September, 1822, by Captain T. Tankersly, of the schoonei' Lord Muhrave, of London. Captain Tankersly added, that he had met with another master mame forgotten), who said he had observed the sea-weed on this rock ; got out of his boat, and held on by some of the weed. He supposed the rock to be about 50 yards in circumference." The preceding information is from Captain Livingston, who also says, •' I was some years smce informed by an old man of colour, a native of Goa, who was steward of u vessel I then conimanded, that, while he was cabin-stewaixl to Sir Edward Pellew, while captain of H.M.S. Indefatigable, she struck on a rock off Cape F^'histerre. This, I understand, has been denied, and it api)ears truly ; for I have now information on which I can rely, from a very respectable naval officer, whdse name I do not consider myself at liberty to mention, that the Indefatigable, when commanded by Sir Edward Pellew, actually struck on the rock, or a rock, off Cape St. Vincent, and received some damage. I had no doubt, before, that she had struolc somewhere, as I had perfect confidence in mv old steward's veracity : the error was in memory only." — {Letter, 2&th October, 1822.) - The existence of this rock was affirmed on the 6th of March, 1839, by Mr. John Aves, commander of the schooner Tan.ivg, of Plymouth. At O*" 30' p.m., this vessel, on her voyage fh>m Zante, passed close to the eastward of it ; it was not seen till close aboard, and not avoided without difficulty. There was a swell from the N.W. breaking over it, and a sheet of foam, about 20 to 25 fathoms in circumference. The Tantivy stood in N.N.E. on the starboai-d tack, till 7 next morning, then tacked to the southward, passing the cape at the distance of about 2 miles. 'Tue rock was thus estimated to lie considerably to the eastward of its position, as shown by chart, and to bear about 8.S.W., true, 37 or 40 miles from the cape. , n .» i, .v ■>' We must leave this for the present. It is a blot on the chartii. Its ex!^«n(« ought to have been set at rest many years since. •■'^■*^ Cleveland Jtoef, off Cafe Qmji. {?)' ' ' This reef, or bank, said to have been discovered l y Captain Clevelana, R.N., in 1796, in iat. 30° 45', at about 9 leagues from the coasc, was diligently sought for bv the jEtna and Raven, on survey, lu 1835, without success ; and it Kas been accora- ingly erased fh)m the charts. .. . . , ., .,i,^„i e<» fj . .. FALCON ROCKS, to the Northwaid of Porto Santo. The situation of these rocka has been already given in the description of the Ma- deiras, p. 58fi. They hud pi-eviously been vaguely and erroneously described as ft bank, on which Francis Doublet, of Honfieur, grounded, to the N.E. of Porto Santo; and as a ledge on which a Dutch ship was lost. It is most probvole tbftt it is the same shoal as the Eight Stones, next described. ~". ^ . :£S. 16' w. f 12 or 16 the French , if it really IS, from in- l>y, that, in uch damage Taylor vas B of striking then imme- , the people bad not seen or 30 miles. Bays, " This r. Tankersly, that he had sea-weed on supposed the •• I was some steward of a reard Pellew, laterre.^ This, formation on » not consider T Sir Edward 'eeeived some I had perfect y."— {Letter, )y Mr. John ,, this vessel, not seen till m the N.W. jrence. The en tacked to ook was thus )y chart, and Its exi'itencA |na, R.N., in ought for bv Ibeen accora- 1 of the Mtt- _cribed a» a _»orto Santo; Ihat it is the BETWEEN LATITUDES 30' AND 40*. ^f The Eigid Stones, to the Northwaid of Madeiea. (P) A very extensive and dangerous reef, accordiugr to M. D'Apres, was supposed to have been discovered by a Captain Vobonne, of London, in 1732, and subsequently seen by a vessel going to the West Indies. Eight rocks were aid to be se^, even with the surface of the water, and situate between 34" 30' and 34° 46' N., near the meridian of 16° 40' W. This object, therefore, for more than a century past, was alarming the navigator ; but sufficient evidence has been given to prove its non- existence in the deep sounding of 2,298 fethoms gained in the U.S. ship Do^hin. The routes of the following ships and vessels of the British navy are also con- clusive :— On the E. and N.E. of the assumed position, we find, in 1828, the South- amiitontaid Chanticleer: in 1829, the Blossom; in 1832, the Beagle; in 1833, the .dEtna and Baven ; mo > to the West, beyond the meridian of 16% in 1326, the Md*tin: and in 1828, the Emulous: beyond these, westward, the Bav«n and Sul- phur, in 1836 ; and the Blossom, in 1825, which passed from the northward directly over the spot. In 1831, the ^Etna likewise passed over it, and pursued her course thence toward Porto Santo. The ^tna agoin, in 1836, more to the West, sounded near the meridian of 17°, but found no bottom at 200 fathoms. The same ship, in 1833, passed in an East and West direction directly over the supposed centre of the shoal, but found no bottom at 70 fathoms. MossMAN Rock, lat. 43' 41' n!, long. 28' 61' W. The harbour master of Hartlepool announced the discovery of a rock a few feet above water, by his brother. Captain Robert Mossman, in command of the Edward Kenny, April 22nd, 1864, in the above position. It was conlitleutly believed to be a rock, hut no means are stated to have been tried to test it. The repeated announcements of rocks in this neighbourhood, as is shown, although they do not hardlr* m any case appear to be seen again in the positions claimed for them, and the evidence or the deep soundings is against several of them, yet this rc- Setition of discovery leads to the inference that some such rock as Mr. Mossman escribes, may lurk nidden here, and has given rise to these reports. Prank Rocks, West of the Azores, lat. 38° 32' N., long. 33° 16' W. (?) Captain A. Pronk, of the Dutch bark, De Hoop, reported, that on his passage from Batavia to Rotterdam, in the North Atlantic Ocean, near the Azores, April 6th, 1844, in the afternoon, sailing with a strong breeze and fine weather, being on their quarter- deck with his officers, tney were much alarmed by some of his people in the foretop calling out that they saw a large rock close by on the lee-bow. Ine captain imme- diately ordered the helm to be put down, and the vessel luffed up 3 or 4 points to avoid the danger ; with astonishment they saw several rockr, plainly visible from deck to every man on board. They passed thein within a cable's length, and Captain Pronk says that it was an extensive group of rocks, with several points above water, some of them more than 16 feet in height, against which the sea broke furiously. The captain places this danger in 38' 32' N., and 33° 16' West of Greenwich, by very good observations and chronometer ; the next day they saw the Western Islands, and found the longitude by chronometer very exact. The foregoing was comriunicated from the Dutch newspapers to the Nautical Magazine by Captain F. Fohkens, of the Dutch ship Boon and jPendrecht. The site was sailed over in 1846 by Captain Siekcns, of the Dutch Marine. Besides the circ.unstance of the asserted discovery not having since been verified, there is a positive evidence of the depth of i,d00 fathoms at 2<> miles N,W. of it. Constante Beef, lat. 37° 66' 20', long. 33" 4' 8" ; and Ferreira Beef, lat. 38° 26' 44% long. 30" 26' 10 W. The official notice of these two reefs we find in the Nautical Magazine, December, 1840, p. 881, as follows :— " 1, Manocl Mariano Ferreira, pilot, while navigitting from Paraimi to liishon, on board th« noei .Vllinan" rerrciin, pinn, wiiiit ii»i»iy-i'.s::g ii..iu x luiuon lu jiioi»v/n, nu Brazilian brig Constante, as master and chief pilot thereof, and being to ft78 DESCRIPTION OF SHOALS, VIGIA8, ETC. the westward of the Azores, near the parallel, and not very dii^tant from the meridian of the repelled Martyrs or Azores reef; at 10 a.m., on the 26th of AugOHt, 1840, sailing in a northerly direction, with light winds ii-om the E.S.E., saw breakers to windward, at the distance of 1 or 2 miles. Shortly alter it tell calm, and my vessel reniained in the same position for six hours, add in sight of the said breakers, so that I got tile boats out to keep her head away, and tow her out of danger. -At nooUi it beldg then high water at that place, the surf had nearly disappeared ; at 2 p.m. it again became perceptible, and at 6 p.m. a group of rocks was clearly vipible above the water. By the latitude I had observed at noou, and tho longitude given by a good chronometer, and the rock being about 1 1 miles distant from me, I compute their situation to be in lat. 37° 66' 20' N., long. 33° 4' 8 ' West of Greenwich. " As the wind freshened, at 6 p.m., I made sail agdn, and having arrived in three days in sight of the Island of Flores, I found that my chronometer was perfectly con-ect. " The wind being East I tacked to the southrvard, and on the Slst of August I THidsed near another sunken rock, which is marked in the chart as having been seen by Captain Kobson, to the northward of Fuyal. At 8 a.m. I saw some rocks above water, over which the sea broke, and which I passed to leeward, at the distance of 1 to 2 miles, ^y observation and the chronometer I calculate this second danger to be situated in la ;. 38° 26' 44% long. 30° 25' 10' W. of Greenwich, all which I certify with- out doubt.— iwfton, 6th 'October, 1840." The first of these reefs has been named the Constante jR:ief, and the second, Ferreira Reef; they have been previously noticed, together with the Pronk Rocka (Rhoon Kocks, in the Nau*ical 3Iagazme), on p. 417. The shoal off Flores, mentioned above, was originally copied iVom Van Keulen into Bellia's chart 'ot 1742. Its position has varied from time to time. It ciinnot be authentic. By some it is called Martyrs Shoal, by the Poi-tuguese Vigia doe Azores (" Atlantic Memoir," 1825, p. 262.) Near to the asserted position of the Constante Keef, Captain J. Keyzcr, of the Dutch ship Bato, on May 6th, 1846, saw a white patch about 100 feet in diameter. The sea smooth at the time. Lat. 37° 42 . long. 32" 87'. We leave these asserted shoals for future investigation. *"' .{: ^*'"^' Against their authenticity we have the authority of Captfiin T. D. Sickem, of tlic Dutch Maiine, who passed over the spot with a good look out from the rigging, with- out seeing anything, and then steered N. W. by N. over Constante Reef, &c., with the same result. Again a volcanic shoef: was felt, March 13, 1853, lat. 38° 9° N., long. 31° 66'* Near to this, however, the sea is 2,000 fathoms deep. At all events much circumspection is necessary in sailing through these parts. Atila Jtock, lat. 36° 31' N., long. 32° 34' W. (P) A very vague announcement was issued by the Hydrogitiphic Office of Madiid, in 1867, of a sunken rock of uncertain depth, seen by uie Captain of the Spanish brigantine Atila, in lat. 36° 31' N., long. 32° 24° W., but with no further particulars! this would be some 200 miles '.7.S.W. of Fayal, but it seems very doubtful. . uihiiA/ Hilton Rocks, West of the Azores, lat. 39° 18', long. 35° 60'. ' '" " Bark Secret, Mr. Robei-t Hilton, master, from Valparaiso toward Livci-pool, May 12th of n4 whic andl the 8 and not I * The repented accounts which havo been jyivon of earthquake phenomena hereabout, ought to induce caution. Their range appears to be wide, for on November 26tli, 1867, W. Cook, of the Eatreinadura, bound for Fayal, when iu lat. 39« 67', longr. 26" 60', saw abaft the beam what was though to bo a squall, but which turned out to be a kind of mist or wann steam, which lasted half an hour ; wind N.E. The waves then changed to a kind of boil, or topping sea, as if smged up from beneath, but it returned lo its former state, when the mist wnn passed. (Lloyd's List, Jan, 11, 1868). .T»-'«V:i^- he meridian igiut, 1840, breakers to d my vesael ;r8, so that \.t nooHi it at 2 p.m. it le above the by a good mpute their tred in three ras perfectly of August I ieen seen by rocks above ihtance of 1 lan^r to be certify with- )nd, Ferreira ockft (Rhoon Keulen into [t cannot be (a dos Azores eyzer, of the in diameter. ckena, of the gging, with- icc, with the 65'» Near parts. Madiid, in the Spanish larticulars ; r erpool, May J heiHsabout, tb, 1867, W. HW abaft the list or wann ^d of boil, or ben the mi::l BETWEEN LATITUDES Stf- AND 40*. 679 12th, 184a. "W tale obserring a meridian altitude breakers were reported ; they were of no m-eat extont, but Mr. H. plainly saw aome objects in the holtows of the waves, which he felt perfectly certain were heads of rocks. The swell was not very heavy, and he thinks, m smooth water, they would be nearly on a level with the surface of the sea. The breakers were about 1 J or 2 miles S. W., by compass, from the vessel, and at the time she was running 7^ or 8 knots, with steenng sails set, so that there was not much time for very particular remarks. "The latitude stated, 39° 18' N., long. 35° 60' W.; was from meridian observation, and the longitute ftorn the mean of thebe observations j viz., their own chronometers, —the chronometer of a ship in company, and a lunar taken by Mr. H. himself, the same afternoon."— Communicated to the Nautical Magazine bv Captain A. Living- ston, August, 18^5. ■> J r e This reported shoal lies to the N.W. of the Pronk Rocks, but the positions ascer- tained would, perhaps, be conclusive against their identity. It is much to be re- gretted that in this and many similar cases some little trouble is not taken to place uese matters beyond doubt and uncertainty ; they remain, perhaps for many years, without being confirmed, and thus only " disfigure" the charts, and are a source of anxiety and annoyance to the navigator. Jean Ramon's Bock, in lat. 36° 64', long. 19° 49' (P) Tie existence of this distance rests solely on the authority of Jean Hamon, com- mander of the Troa Amie, of Bordeaux. On the 8th of January, 1733, according to M. Bellin, he approached it within three-quai'ters of a league, and carefully observed it. ( Very doubtful.) KeU8, or Europa Bock, lat. 38° 15' N., long. 22° 14' W. Captain D. Kens, of the Dutch ship Europa, stated, in a letter t> H. E., the Minister of Marine, that on the morning of December 10th, 1853, he saw a " black mass," to the S. W. by W., steering N.E. by compass ; at day break he saw that it waa a rock or reef, and passed it about 2 miles distant. Its height was about 15 or 20 feet, and it was about 200 ells in length. Captain Kens places this rock in lat. 38° 16' N., long. 22° 14'W.* Whah Bock, in about lat. 38° 46', long. 25° (?) M. Fleurieu exhibited this rock on his chart of the Azores, at about 29 leagues from St. Michael's, upon the report of a pilot, whom he knew at Angra, in Terceira. Its existence has, however, been disputed. Some breakers, which were very high, were seen by Mr. R. Gradun, commander of the ship Harmony, of London, on the 8th of January, 1800 ; their latitude by observation being 38° 46', and longitude, by account, 24° 47'. The situation assigned by Mr. Gradun being very near mat stated by M. Fleurieu. Mr. Reid, late British consul-general at the Azores, believed it really to exist ; several masters of vessels, who have been blown to sea from St. Michael's, having told him that they have actually seen it, and that in form it much resembles a whale. The rock has been diligently sought for, under an order of the British Admiralty, but without success ; and it now seems clear that it cannot lie in the situation assigned by Mr. Gradun ; and their existence is most improbable. ,,,-,-_ Tulloch Beef, in about 37° 27' N., and 24° 45' W. (?) This reef was said to have been seen in 1808, by Captain William Tulloch, of the brig Equator, of Portsmouth, New Hampshire, on a voyage from Madeira to St. Mi- chel's, as already shown and described in page 565. It may be remarked that Captain TuUoeh observed, from their black cindery appeuv- anoe, that the rocks had risen from volcanic impulse ; but as shown previously they cannot now be found. . . , * Yorhanuolingen on Hoiigten, 1851, No. l,p. 171. •680 DESCRIPTIC^ OF SHOALS, V1GIA8, ETC. St. Mart's Bank to the S.W. of the Island of St. Maiy, in aboirt 35° 53' N., and 2r 19' W. On our passage, in 1819, from Havana to Barcelona, we passed over white water, wently a shoal, to the southward and westward of St. Mary's. The captain Id not allow the vessel to heave-to in order to sound ; but I have no doubt in my mind of its being a very extensive bank of soniidings ; and I have little doubt that I have ascertained its position, tolerably accurate, from lunars, prior and subsequent. I ■honld not be surprised if it turned out that the bank w6 passed over was connected with the Kntusoff Bank, marked, in the last edition of Admiral Espinosa's chart, as having been seen in 1816, and whieh lies to the S.W. of the one we passed over, at the distance of about a degree. We were some hours crossing the .bank. • " The bank lies iu lat. 36° 63' N., as calculated by account between the observations of the noon before and noon following ; long. 27° 19' West. I have heard a French gentleman, a lieutenant de vaisseau, mention what I suppose to be the same, at the table d'hote, at St. Michael's, in October, 1818." A Lmnfftton. This is all we Rtill know. 'UHi' joayna Eock, in lat. 31° 40', and long. 23° 45' (P) On tiiis danger, it has been stated that the Joayna, of Flushing, was lost in August, 1697. The latitude observed, and the distance 110 leagues m>m Madeira. In the Spaniih coart it is said to have been seei^ in the year 1805 ; in lat. 31° 40', long. 23° 45', as above. .;-\f ;>*;.i 'l^ " John M. CHlchriat, master of the brig Jewess, of Liverpool, reports that on his passage from Bahia, on the Ist of January, 1848, at about half an hour after noon, m lat. mer. alt. of the sun that day, 23° N. (»tc), by 24° 28' 30" W., by forenoon and afternoon sights ' for a chronometer, which on making Medeira, and arrival at Gibraltar proved correct, saw at about a quarter of a mile distant, bearing S.E. by S. by compass, something which at first appeared to be a fish sporting in the water, but upon taking the glass and looking at it, appeared like a flat rock just awash with the wa^«>r. As the Josyna Rock, by some considered doubtful, is sup- posed to be situated somewhere thereabouts, this notice may serve to put mariiners on tb air guard." We copy the foregoing from the " Nautical Magazine," March, 1848, page 160, as posted at the Liverpool Underwriters' Booms. The latitude is there stated to be 23", but the reference to the Josyna Hock leads us to the assumption that it is an error for 32° N. The account seems very vague, but it is right to mention it, and we leave it in great doubt, for future determination. Falconer Rock, ofif Fayal, lat. 38° 40' N., long. 29° 8' W. (?) ^ ' • * ' The bark Johanna, Captain W. Falconer, on July 13th, 1847, passed what was supposed to be a rock, of which the men were perfectly sure. The bearings place the spot in about lat. 38° 40' N., long. 29° 8' W., or about 12 miles N.W. of the end of Fayal. The account in in the " Nautical Magazine," November, 1847, page 589, it is vague, and it may have been some floating object, still its nature was confidently stated, but it is very doubtful. ..c/5.< . .'-• Candler's Rock, in about 39° 47' N., and 34° 29' W. (?) This rook, to the westward of Flores, said to have been seen, a few years ago, by Captain Candler, of the Betsy, of Boston, who thought it to be 100 feet in height, is beheved to have been an iceberg only, and therefore expunged from the charts. Chantebeau's Shoal, in lat. 38" 27', and long. 38° 0'. This shoal, described as a white rock, was said to have been seen by Captain Chnn- tereau, of the ship L'Auguste, in lat. 38° 24', long. 41" 35', in coming from Martinique, 6th September, 1721, when the sea broke on it very much. It was again announced by Lieutenant Edm. Scott, commanding the Princess Elizabeth packet, 24th of Apiil, 1828 :— " On the 24th of 1828, at three p.m., the water round the ship very green, and board to the then it. Ii halfa "In was re dently had, at 39° 49' vigia, Perez, 37° 67' the(^ after. »sy, BETWEEN LATITUDES SO" AND 40' N. 681 65' N., 'hite •water, [lie captain ubt in my mbt that I )8equent. I I connected ,'b chart, as ed over, at >bservations rd a French ame, at the all we 8till t in August, iira. In the )', long. 2a» that on his r after noon, Forenoon and d arrival at ring S.E. by »rting in the lat rock just btful, is 8up- , mariners on page 160. as ed to be 23\ an error for we leave it what was rs place the the end of I, it is vague, stated, but [ars ago, hy height, 18 larts. stain Chan- lartinique, announced |th of Aprili rerv 2i'cen, and with every appearance of being in soundings; and, on looking before the star- board beam, saw under water, at the distance of 2 cables, what evidently appeared, to the master and myself, to be a white sand-bank or rock, which the water aid cot then break on, but it appeared so very plain that there could not be much water on it. In extent it was about 1 or 1| cables E. by N. and W. by S., inte, and about half a cable in breadth. " Immediately on observing the shoal, I ordered the lead and line up ; but, ere it was ready, the coloiu of the water had changed to a deep sea-blue, when it was evi- dently useless to sound ; at that time we were about a mile firom tbe white spot ; we had, at the time, a good breeze, but very little swell of the 8ea.^Lat. 39° 14', long. 39' 49' W. According to a notice inserted in the late official copies of the Derrotero de ku AntiUas often quoted in this work, and dated Madrid, July 4th, 1846, a shoal, or vigia, was discovered at three p.m., May 2l8t, 1846, in fine weather, by P. Gabriel Perez, captain of the Spanish n^erchant ship Zeontina, in lat. 38° 27' N., long. 37° 5r 10' W. of Greenwich, accoiiing to observations made shortly before seeing the {Eacollo) rock, and confirmed by -chronometer in making Graci^ (Azores) soon after. Here we have three announcements of dangers of similar character in close proximity. If it exists, thej are probably the same. We have no further evidence m its favour or to contradict it. But at 74 miles eastward of it, the Dolphin found 2,675 fathoms. Breton's Bock, about lat. 39° 40', long. 41° 36'. (?) This shoal, according to M. Bellin, was seen by Breton, a pilot of Bochelle, who marked it merely as a rock. Laisn§, another pilot, has also placed it in nearly the same latitude and longitude. It is also sounded on bv Roland, a pilot of Tremblade, and also seen by Jean Desmaries ; there bein^ scarcely 10' difference in latitude, and in longitude not more than 1°. The situation originally assigned was 39° 45' N., and 41"' 25' W. This danger was again said to have been seen in 1816 by the ship Tiger, on her passage from Barbadoes to Liverpool. The letter of a passenger states that, " On the 14th of March, at ten a.m., a smart breeze from the S.W., with studding-sails set, going 7 J knots an hour, steering E. by N„ true, in lat. 39° 40', long. 41° 40', we passed over a very agitated rumbliug sea. 'Under our starboard bow, in appearance about a circle of a mile, was a small field of dark-brown rockweed, apparently a confirmed fixture ; entangled with tl. weed were two pieces of spar, seemmgly very much decayed." A little trouble would have settled this at the time. Its non- existence is determined by the deep soimding last meationed, of 2675 fathoms, 20 miles to the East of it. Columbine Shoal, lat. 35° 25' N., long. 49° 1' W. (?) "^Vf "" ' : ':v . The Columbine, Robertson, from Aux Cayes, on April 2nd (1844 ?), at three p.m., being in lat. 35° 25' N., long. 49° 1' W., saw discoloured water to windward; it had a brown appearance, extending above 100 feet in a 8.S.E. direction, and about 30 feet across. It had all the appearance of a rock under water ; the vessel was then little ' more than her length North of it, steeling E.N.E. Some other brown patches were Been. The sea did not break over theao places. The discoloured water last mentioned was seen for nearly a nals.'^Shippinff Gazette, May, 1844. We have here an in'/tance of carelessneas which is often to be deplored, and highly reprehensible. The 'ommander of the (hlumbine, with every circumstance of wind, weather, and sea in Isi^ favour, did not attempt to decide, by a single sounding, most easily made, whether this was a real danger, or merely discoloured water, which must be supposed to abound in this centre basin of the Atlantic in the calm regions. Westenenk Shoal, 31' 48' N.,40° 28' W. Captain J. W. Westcnenk, on board the Dutch ship AUda Maria en Adele, llth 682 DESCRIPTION OF SHOALS, VIOIAS, ETC. of August, 1854, about 11 o'clock in the forenoon, sailing with a light E.N.E. breeze, breftjura were seen at half a mile distance. The noon observation gave the latitude as SmC^' N., and the longitude, West of Greenwich by two ozonometers, was 40° 28' 30*.* We give this as related, but nave nothing to contradict it at present. Anna Bock, lat. 39° 30' N., long. 60° 30' W. (P) Extract from the log. of the Sicilian brig Anna, Marco Carmelich, master: — " Tuesday, June 8th, 1841, p.m., ship sailing with all sails set. At three p.m., ob- served a shoal to the South, distant about 2 vailcn, appearing to the eye like a ship with three Tnasts of equal heiffht, and inclining towards the South, and about 50 leet high, surroundieq by shoals, level with the water. Latitude, calculated from that observed at noon, 39° 32' N., long 50° 50' W." . Evidently an iceberg. Mmn's Reef, in about 39» N., 64° 20' W. (P) This shoal was seen by the brig Joseph Hume, of which Mr. Alexander Munn was mate, 22nd of August, 1827, on her passage homeward to Liverpool. " The vessel passed close to it ; they saw the white sand above the water, and sounding where the vessel then was, found 20 fathoms sandy bottom, a quarter of a mile off : then bore up, and sailed westward of it, in deep water." This information was communicated by Mr. Munn, through the medium of Captain James Porter, of the bark Science, of Greenock. , In the passage of H.M.S. Thunder from Bermuda to Halifax, in 1835, the ship hove-to for the night, in order to search for this shoal, but it was not found. The Sapphire frigate had passed over the spot at noon of the day before, but likwise un- successfully. In a former page is an account of a large tree having been found by Captain G. P. Lock, near this position. t-f- V- .-i W.' *^L. "iSt" Field's Vigia, lat. 37° 31', long, by account, 66» 0'. (P) An account of this vigia was published in the ^ear 1833, but we are strongly inclined to think that it might be only a collection of weed, &c., in one of the southern eddies of the Gulf Stream, where, in abundance, it is frequently found, lliis was Mr. Purdy's remark, but Captain Field's negligence gave great trouble to dis- prove his opinion. • The U.S.S. Dolphin had a good sounding of 500 fathoms on the spot, another of 1,175 fathoms at 10 miles S.E. of it, and many other unsuccessful soimdings in its neighbourhood, where they were for 4 days. ' ' " ""*" ' Anf trite Shoal, in lat. 35° 50' N., long. 66» 4' W. (P) ' ' An official notice from the Spanish Hydrographic Direction states that tL. S^i.^uish merchant ship Anjitrite, in her passage from the Havana to Cadiz, in May lU-12th, 1846, discovered a patch of broken water, about a cable's length in extent from N.E. -to S.W., which they placed in lat. 35° 50' N., and long., by observation, 59° 46' 38 West of Cadiz, or 66° 4' 11" West of Greenwich. As in the pseceding case this un- founded assertion gave work for 5 days to the U.S.S 2>o^Am, when 1,000 fathoms, no bottom was found on the spot. Potomac'a Soundings, lat. 38° 10', long. 67° 26'. (P) On the southern side of the Gulf Stream, in the situation given above, sounding at 90 fathoms were found by Captain Smith, in the ship Potomac, of Alexandna, U.S., June, 1838. The U.S.S. Dolphin found 400 fathoms, no bottom, on the spot, and 300 to 430 fathoms, no bottom, for 50 miles around it, Oct. 18,1851. Lieut, Berryman also had a doubtfril sounding of 4,290 fathoms at 40 miles to the W.S.W. Yerhanderlingen en Berigten, &c., Amsterdam, 1854, p. 511. BETWEEN LATITUDES dOT AND 40* N. V* .E. breeze, IB latitude leters, ■was t present. master : — le p.m*) 0^* eye like a id about dO ilated from r Munn •was •• Tbe vessel ig where the f : then bore na of Captain 135, the ship found. The t likwiseun- ien found by are strongly in one of the , found. This rouble to dis- \t, another of idings in its Itth. !^. 'finish [May lU-12th, Vnt from N.E. on, 59^ 46' 38" J case this un- 1,000 fathoms, Ive, soundings |f Alexandna, on the spot, |l861. Lieut. ltheW.S.W. False Bermudas and Dyet Rocks, to the Eastward of thi !>ERMrDAS. (P) r Former charts of the Atlantic exhibited rocks at aboat 100 leagues to the i^Miof the Bermudas, upon the authority, it is probable, of Bellin, 'who has stated, that " about 100 leagues to the East of Bermudas there is a little shelf of brittle rocks, which has been seen by one Louis Duhal, in a corsair, or privateer, that sailed around them ; and as this shelf is nearly on the parallel of the Bermudas, many have mis^ taken it for the rocks about those islands." M. Bellin has observed that there are some rocks on this shelf whose tops are above the water ; but that many doubt their existence. Subsequent inquiry as to these vigias showed that rocks, supposed to have been seen by tno late (Japtain Bell, oi the Francis Freeland packet, were placed in about 3ir'46'N.,and66»25'W. The r jport of these rooks was afterwards revived by the following statement :— ' *' On my passage from St. Kitt's to London, and when off Bermuda, May 17th, we^ passed within 30 or 40 feet of two sunken rocks, having 6 or 8 feet water over them,, it being very smooth at the time, in lat. 32° 46' N. at noon, long. 60° 6' W." — Bohert Dyet, master of the bark Catherine Qreen, of London. . . ; llie U.S.S. Dolphin spent 7 days in the unsuccessful search for this rock ; sounded \- uh 800 fa 'loms, no bottom, 12 miles East, and with 550 fathoms over the spot assigned to 'iie Dyet Rocks, and no bottom with 800 fathoms in that of the Fuse^ Bermud'v^. Ashton Rock and 'Jrion Rock, between the Bermudas and Cape Hattbras. (?) Sh p William Aahton, Captain H. B. Guy, 22nd May, 1824 :— " At 11" 50', the man at the wheel saw 3omethin^ on the starboard bow, distant about 1 mile. Hauled the ship toward it, when we discovered it to be a rock ; passed to the westward of it, at the distance of about 2 cables' lengths. The base of the rock appeared to be about. 100 yards in circumference, on which the sea broke. In the centre was a point of rock in the form of a sugar-loaf, about 8 feet above the water, with a quantity of weed about it. [Something like a whale ?] Passed the lead forward ; no gronna- at 80 fathoms. Latitude 33° 48' 60", long. 71° 41' 20". " Orion Rock, no soundings. — We have received the following communication' from Liverpool. The master of the Orion, belonging to our port, Luytjas, from Trinidad de Cuba, arrived in the Weser, has furnished the following particulars of a rock fallen in with : — On my voyage from Trinidad de Cuba for Bremen we per- ceived, May 5th, lat. 34" 51' N., long. 72° 28' W., a rock 2 feet above the water. It had the appearance of a water cask of two or three hogsheads. We were at a; distance of only 20 feet from the rock, when ^e, fortunately in time, discovered? it.— JSroncn, July 17th." — " Nautical Magazine," August, 1845. Very unlike a rock .' Huntly's Rock, lat 30° 49' long. 78° 27'. (P) ,f /; This danger {if a danger) Was first made known by the following communication^ addressed to Lloyd's, by' Captain C. Huntly, in 1834 : — On the 30th of November, 1833, at 9 a.m., saw a coral rock. We were about 60' yards to the southward of it. I find that this rock lies in lies in lat. 30° 49' 15", long. ' 78" 27' 30' West. It was about 8 feet above the water, and in the fall of the sea it branched out to the N.N.W. about 30 feet in distance. This must have been some floating object. The Steen-ground to the westward of Madeira, very vaguely represented in the charts of last century, 60 or 35 leagues to the West of Madeira. 111. ..vOiliBt 684 DESCRIPTION OF SHOALS, VIGIAS, ETC. BETWEEN THE LATITUDES OF 20° AND 30". Gombauirs Bock, in lat. 23° 16', long. 32° 26'. (P) According to M. Fleoriea, this danger was first seen in 1764, having been dis- ooV«tredbyG'>mIiaud, the commander of a merchant-vessel of Uochelle. Upon this authority it was continued, but it was annihilated by a aotmding of 2,200 fathoms on the spot by the U.S.S. Dolphin. Overfalh, or Heavy Eipplea, in lat. 24° 11', long. 61° 44'. No Shoal. On Saturday, the 7th of February, 1819, at ten a.m., the schooner Brilliant, Capt. Tulloch,on her passage from Gibraltar to Havana, passed through very heavy over- falls, extending N.N.E. | E. and S.S.W. ^ W., true, as far as the eye could reach, with much sea- weed- (y^cu« natons) in it. The breadth of the overfalls did not ex- ceed half a mile. Latitude about 24° 11', longitude 61° 43' 67' W. The preceding information was communicated by our friend Captain Livingston, who adds :— " We saw no danger." Bottom was satisfactorily obtained with 3,460 fathoms in the U.S.S. Dolphin on the spot, indicated by Capt. Livingstx)n. i'iCf ;rT ■ ., Oandaria Bocks, lat. 26° 30', long. 37° 46'. (?) The following notice of these rocks appeared in the Gagcta de Madrid, May 28th, 1842 : — " On Monday, April 18th, Captain Oandaria, of the Spanish merchant ship Dolores Ugarte, 107 days from Guayaquil, saw from the deck of that vessel a group of rocks about a cable's length in extent, and in the middle of them a large one, high and insulated, on which the sea broke violently. The latitude 26° 29' 66", longitude 37° 18'. But Lieut. Lee found bottom with 1,720 fathoms on the spot. , , MourancCa Bank, in lat. 24° 34', long. 66° 10'. (?) This danger wok discovered by Mourand, commander of the Prince de Nizarre, of Nantes, on the 6th of April, 1773. He described it to be a " bank of red sand, many parts of which are out of water, like detached islands, over which the sea breaks j it appeared^ to extend about a quarter of u. league from North to South."- The U.S.S. Dolphin got bottom with 3,660 fathoms near the position of the reef, and no bottom was found with 1,000 fathoms on the spot. > i'.iv;..: Deep Soundings S.E. of Bermuda, {f) TIi9 New Bedford Mercury relates an account of some soundings which were sup- posed to be obtained in the ship Chaucer, in April. 1860, but which were fallacious as follows:—" Here, in lat. 27* ION., lonff. 62° 45' W., on the 20th of Amil, 1850, the nearest land being Bermudas, bearing N.W. by N., a'.id distant 346 mues, water blue, -with much gulf-weed, weather calm, no current, the boat was lowered ; let run the lead, and sot bottom in 744 fathoms. April 16th, lat. 27° 31 N., long. 60° 3' W., Bermudas N.W. by N., 300 miles, sounded and got bottom in 366 fathoms. April 29th, lat. 29° 20' N.,long. 64° 11' W., Bermudas N. by W. 160 miles, sounded and got bottom in 620 fathoms. The time occupied in running out the line varied from twenty to thirty minutes. The line was constructed thus : first 100 fathoms, five parts of shoo thread ; second, four parts ) third, three parts ; fourth, two parts ; remaind«.*r single. The lead weighed about five pounds) the whole wouna o^ion a light reel, and hem by hand. In this process of obtaining Bound\-tgs the load is not to be hauled up." — Daily News, Aug. 28, 1850. There is no doubt but iuat the imperfect means deceived the commander as to find- ing bottom i for Captain l.ue, U.S.S. Dolphin, got a good sounding of 3,828 fathoms. the deeiwst obtainca in the cruise a degree to the South of that reported of Mi fathoms, and no bottom with 1 ,000 fathoms near that of 620 fathoms, ond 3,080 fathoms have been got near that of 744 fathoms. BETWEEN THE EQUATOR AND 20" N. 68fr m,y: been dis- Upon this lO fathoms al. liant, Capt. leavy over- ould reach, lid r>ot ex- B preceding Ids:— "We )m8 in the , May 28th, !rchant ship jscl a group je one, high i', longitude I iWzarre, of j. sand, many a breaks ; it of the reef, !h were sup- e fallacious: April, 1850, ifles, water jd ; let run . 60° 3' W., April.29th, [ed and got tv njinutcs. lad ; second, Vd weighed id. In this ^aily New», as to iind- 28 fathoms, rted of ;Wft and 3,080 Ouigou'8 Bank, in lat. 20» 60', long. 66° 45'. (P) M. Bellin, in the Memoir of his Chart, of 1742, deBcribes this to be a " rocky bank, about 45 leagues to the northward of Porto Rico, upon which a Dutch vessel was lost in 1701, and that it had also been seen by a French versel." Another manu- script, in the Depot de la Marine, confirmed this account. It also appears, firom the deposition of Christopher Whipple, commander of the Anna, of Rnode Island, that he was wrecked on the 27th of rl^ovember, 1733, upon a shelf, from 30 to 40 leagues to the northward of Porto Rico. In the Marine Depot of Paris there is a manuscript entitled, " Plan of the Shelf which was discovered by Captain Michael Ouig^ou, of Seine, iii Prevence, in the ship La Concorde, February, 1688." On that plan it is placed at 45 leagues to the northward of Porto Rico, somewhat nearer to the western than to the eastern end. But a sounding by Lieut. Berryman of 2,960 fathoms at 35 miles N.N.E. of it, destroys its authenticity. > Courier Hock, off Matanilla Reef, lat. 27° 51' N., long. 78° 31' W. (?) The Courier, of Greenock, drawing 15 feet, William Thompson, commander, states that he rounded the Matanilla Reef at 2** p.m., and, at 6^ 2(r p.m., struck on an un- known coral reef, on January 22nd, 1849, and on tacking found 3|, 4, 5^, 7, and 10 fathoms, and no bottom at 16 fathoms. In some remarks on it {Nautical Magazine, 1849, p. 214), it is argued that the courses would not bring the ship to the position, and that the eddy of the Gulf Stream would also tend to vitiate the reckoning. With Uiese views it is then contended that a 2 fathoms coral spot, at the N.W. end of the reef, marked on the chart, is ♦b«> real danger. In the Nautical Magazine, August, 184*7, p. 421, there is a statement from Captain J. Watkin, commanding the ship Joshua Waddington, of Liverpool, that on May 13, 1847, he discovered and "touched on a spot not larger than three or four times the size of the ship, with 3 fathoms, sand and jlay, which was stirred up by the ship. It was supposed to be a detached part of tlie Matanilla Shoal. The survey of the Matanilla Bank at this part is too complete to allow of the supposition of these shoals having been omitted. INQLEFIELD Bank, in lat. 29° 42' N., long. 80° 17 W. P This bank, lying about 66 miles East of St. Augustin, was discovered by Captain 8. Hood Inglefleld, on the 26th of May, 1810, lat. 29° 42' N., long., by account, 80° 12' ; by chronometer, 80' 17' j and by lunars, 80' 18'. Sounded m 25 fathoms, black sand ; hence, steering N. by W. \ W., course made good, had regular soundings, 24, 25, and 2*7 fathoms, speckled sand and broken shells, until 6 p.m. on the 27th, when no bottom could be found. Noon, on the 27th, latitude 30° 5' N., longifude, by account, 80" 25' W., by chronometer, 80" 25'. On the 26th, the current set W.N.W. 1 mile an hour ; at four p.m. on 27th, no current. On the 28th, in latitude 31" 6', longitude by chronometer, 79° 46'. Current ran N.N.E. \\ miles nn hour. — CommU' nicated by tientennnt John Erana, R.N. It is probable that an erroneous reckoning hiu) placed tliis too far off shore. u ViaiAS BETWEEN THE EQUATOE AND Till-] PARALLEL OF 20 DEGEEE8. Hannah's Coral Shoal, lat. 10° 7 , long. 27°. 32". (?) This shoal was reported by Captain Thomas Fanning, of the brig Hannah, on the passage from Rio Janeiro to Trieste, June 25, 1824. Sounded in 16 fathoms, granu- hted coral, on ihe S.W. part, but supposed it much shoaler on the N.h. points, as the weed was plainly to be seen from the mast-head on the surfoce of the water. Its latitude was found to be 10° 7 N., and longitude about 27" 32 W. This would appi-ar to be circumstantial, but Captain I'uUon, in H.M.S. Vyclupi, eoum get no bottom on the ijpoi with 2,000 fathomsin Dec, 1857. 68& DESCRIPTION OF SHOALS, VIOIAS, ETC. Maria Bock, Madeline Reef, Warletja Skoal, French Shoal, Souvefs Bank, etc.. (/) We have the ffrateful task of introducing extracts from a letter addressed to the Secretary of the United States' Navy, by Lieutenant Charles Wilkes, command' ing the South Sea surveying and exploring expedition, and dated on board the sloop Vincennee, at Rio Janeiro, November 27, 1838. It! will be presently seen that the squadron effected the examination of the sup- posed position of ten or eleven shoals or dangers, the detailed accounts of which were formeny given in this vrork, their assigned positions in the charts, and the non- existence of which has apparently "been pro tea. The shoals enumerated in the ensuing paragraphs have been expunged from the charts for many years. It will be, therefore, unnecessary to re])eat the particulars of their alleged discovery. They will be found in the editions of this 'work published before 1840. .^ ITiey were unsuccessfully sought for by the United States' Ex^loH'ng Expedition under Lieut. Commander Chas. Wilkes, and an account of the search was sent to the U.S. Government under date Nov. 27, 1838. .; v, v x;iy ;,•,*,• " The first reported shoal laid down on our route Upon the charts WiB the Maria Bock, in lat. 19 46' N., long. 20° 50' W., which we stood for, and hove-to near the gtsition. Nothing, however, was discovered, and no bottom could be found with 300 thoms of line. " The next position er^amined was Bom Felix Shoal,* said to be within 30 miles of the Maria Rock ; this we searched for in the same manner, but were equally unsuc- cessful. • We then stood for the place assigned to the Bonetta Shoal, to the eastward of Bonavista, said to be in lat. 16° 32' N., long. 20° 37' W. We, in like manner, hupted for this, and after exploring the locality of its position on the chart, I steered on the course of its reported oearing, E. by N. from Bonavista, until nearly up with the Hartwell Beef, lying in sight of Bonavista, which has, without doubt, lleen taken for, and reported as, the shoal called Bonetta, " From Port Praya we steered for Patty's Overfalls, as laid down in the chart, in lat. 11° N., long. 24° 30' W,, and had a good opportunity of examining their locality. A few rips were observed within a degree of the situation assigned them, but little or no current was found ; and I feel confident in asserting that, no danger exists in this vicinity. Warley's Shoal, said to be in lat. 5" 4' N., fong. 21° 25' W., was also care- Ailly examined, but no shoal, or appearunce of shoal water, or any danger, discovered. " Our next examination was of a FVench Shoal, said to be (as laid down) in lat. 4° 6' N., long. 20° 34' W. This was also examined, and no danger or a[)pearancc of shoal discovered. From this point I proceeded East to 13° of West longitude, and over the position assigned to the shoal by the French hydrographers ; then stood for the Triton's Bank, said to be in lat. 0° 32' S., long. 17' 46' W. We did not, however, find it in our progress, or any bottom or indication of soundings ; no discoloration of water was visible, or change of temperature, although the line extended 30 inilcs East and West of its reported position j ofter which we again stood to the North, and ran over a vigia as laid down on the charts, but none such was found in exiiit- cnce. " Our next examination was for Bouvet^s Sandy Inland, which was, in like manncr» careiHilly searched after in and around its position, but our search was equally unsuc- ccssftil. " Finally, search was made in and about lat. 2° 43' S., and long. 20° 35' W. ; ex- tending to the N.N.W. of this point a distance of 30 miles hereabout having been assigned as the situation of the submarine volcano reported by Admiral Kruscnstem, which, it was supposed, might have left a shoal. Tnis locauty was twice run over But it is stated thiit M . Fr^minville, 1R19, obtiiinod a sonnding nf 164 fathomR bqtwcon the liiinignod position of Bom Folfx and the CRf VwdoN, or lat, 18° itS uiuutiuucd uSrenftOF. — Anhfilf' Marniimm, ore, vuL iv., 1834, I't. 34', long 21" 40' W ■2, p. iao. in diffe none su "Lie Octobei looking Toth that giv Frenc 8 soundj IVitot Bouve Kruae of the p( To the lat. 14» t Bock, lat Them and shoa! charts, an oblong cables an< longitude This is question i The Do at modera fathoms ai 1*0 miles Nicolas J 1 and 1,876 i Still Air 1,220 fatht Mays; an( Between In the c threatened classed amc have been » place, but \ It has be ■Miirw, from breakers, di first seen th in a crcsccn a strong hn in heaving i had no bott 14 W.' — C They ore but the earl The reader i BETWEEN THE EQUATOR AND 20° N. 667 etc.. (/) rcssed to sommand- the sloop f the 8up- 'hich were the non- from the ticulars of publuhed Expedition sent to the the Maria ■to near the d with 300 30 miles of lally unsuc- \io eatttward ike manner, rt, I steered irly up with , lleon taken he chart, in leir locality, but little or dats in this 18 also care- , discovered. id down) in appearance igfitudc, and en stood for Dt, however, coloratioH of ._ 30 miles the North, id in exiat- manncr, lally unsuc- y W. J ex- laviug bctu Lruscnstern, nm over amn b»)tworn 121" 40' W- in different directions, and carefully examined, with the squadron in open order, but none such was found in existence. " Lieutenant Hudson, of the Peacock, having,- c:eparated from me on the 16th of October, proceeded on a different course in search of the same shoals which we were looking for, but was unsuccessful in finding any." To the evidence thus afforded by Captain Wilkei's careful search we can now add that g:iven by the deep soundings gained by Lieuf^nant Lee in the Dolphin : — IVench Shoal— bottom obtained with 2,670 fathoms on the spot, which appears by 8 soundings to be the general depth hereabout. Triton'a Bank— 2,8^0 fathoms, bottom obtained at 8 miles West of the position. Bouve^B Island— -no bottom at l,dOO fathoms. Kruaemtern'a Volcano — ^bottom obtained with 3,450 fathoms at a few miles N.W. of the position. To the imaginary shoals above mentioned, we may doubtless add DubreuiPs Vigia, lat. U" 60', long. 29° 40'; Vigia de 5 Palma8,\&t. XT 0', long. 27° 20' \ Longchampa Rock, lat. 9» 47 , long. 30° ; and the Maalstrom, in about 16° N., and 37° W. £milg Rock, lat. 16° 69' N., long. 21° 30' W. (?) The master of the brig Emily, of London, reports that they had discovered a rock and shoal in lat. 16° 69' N., long. 21° 30' W., of which no mention is made in modern charts. The rock is about two feet above the level of the sea, about 12 yards long, of an oblong form, and of a gray colour. The shoal extended fi'om the rock about two cables and a half in length and one in breadth, running due East. The latitude and longitude were obtained by good observations at noon." This is a revival of the old tale of the Emily -Rock, but Lieutenant Lee has set the question at rest (see page 607.) The Dolphin passed over the position under favourable circumstances, and sounded at moderate depths without bottom over the spot ; but he got bottom vdth 1,680 fathoms at 8 miles duo West of it. Besides this, thcv got bottom at 1,970 fathoms at CO miles North of San Antonio i 1,676 fathoms the same distance North of St, Nicolas ; 1,370 fathoms 40 miles North of Sal ; 1,612 fathoms N.N.W. of Sal; 1,944 and 1,876 fathoms at 40 miles S.E. of the alleged position of the Emily Shoal. Still ftirther South and to tlio West of the Cape Verdes, bottom was obtained at 1,220 fathoms at 80 miles E. by N. of Mayo; 1,3mO fathoms at 40 miles East of Mays ; and a depth :i 1,120 fathoms within 6 miles of Maiu. Between St. lag'.' nnd Fogo, no bottom was . v d with 900 fathoms. Pryce Siwo^, Casar Breakers, lat. T 7 ug. 24° 14' W. (?) In the early editions of this Work this danger was included among those which threatened the navigator; but fh)m its not having been seen of late, it has been classed among the imaginary shoals. It is stated on the chart of M. de la Koohette to tiavo been Nccn, in II'M* in lat. 2° N., long. 22' IH' ; and on this authoiity it held its place, but was consider'^ d as very doubtful. It has been again revived, by a not very clear acco\'*^t of it, as follows : — " The brig Mary, from Africa to Liverpool, on the night of the 4tu of July, 1846, at 7'' p.m., saw breakers, diHlanoo a quarter of a mile, strong current setting towards them : when flrHt seen they bore by compass N.W. by N., and seemed to be a long ledge ( f locks in a crescent shajie ; at 3*' a.m., the following morning, saw the S.E. end of the ret-f; a strong breeze coming on prevented us making any ftirthcr examination ; the man, in heaving the lead, struck it upon a html rock (no depth nor situation stated), but had no bottom the second cast. Their position, when seen, was lat. 3° 7' N., long. 24° 14' W.'' — Charles Pryce, supercargo. They are also 146 miles ft-om the previously assigiied position of the C-d«u" T'reaksrs, but the early dates «»f the first announee-meiit will allow great variation in position. The reader must form lUs own opinion oil to their authority. 668 DESCRIPTION OF THE SHOALS, VIGIAS, ETC. Slaeadale'a Meefa, in about lat. 0" 67' N., long. 41" 6' W. (P) On the Idth of October, 1819. the brig Richard, of Ulvemton, Captain Blaesdalor Btruok on a coral reef, in about 0" 56' or 0° 57' lono;., by account, beyond 41' W. In fine moderate weather, the ship going at the rate of 3 knots, at 6^ p.m. grounded, and remained fast about ten minutes. The water was smooth, and no breakers seen. Upon sounding, a few minutes after, no bottom could be found at 150 fathoms; The vessel drew 11 feet of water, and in 1 hour there wero 18 inches of water in the welL On a subsequent survey at Tpva three holes were found, each about the size of a man's hat, and nearly through the vesseVs bottom, and several large pieces of white coral, as laige as a man's hand, were found sticking in different parts. This account appears to be very circumstantial, and the reef has maintained its place on the chart. But the U.S. ship Dolphin obtained a satisfiictory sounding, in which bottom was get with 2,980 fathoms in its position, besides two others with no bottom with 1,000 and 2,000 fitthoms in its vicinity. This decides the questiou. The India Shoal, West of Cape Verde Islands (P) This shoal is laid down from the chart of M. Rochette, 1777, 70 leagues W. by N., true, from St. lago. It is more than doubtful. Tregarthen JRojk, 14" 29' N., long. 26° 30 W. (P) Captain James Trugarthen, of the barque MandartAi of Scilly, left Liverpool in April, 1856, for San Francisco : — " We made Sant' Antonio on the 18th May, 1856, and found the chronometer not many mileo out. We passed along close by' a rock yesterday, not marked in the chart. It is in lat. 14° 29' N., long. 26° 30' W. ; was ibnr feet high and eight feet long, quite round on the top, and steep on all sides. We 8aw it yesterday at half-past nine in the morning. We had good sights for the chro- nometer at that time, and good observation at noon. Wc^ passed it within thirty yards. We mark this as doubtful, as theie was no attempt at verifying the discovery by sounding or otherwise. Baxo das Oargaa, lat. 12° 30' N., long. 29° 2' W. (P) 'f Upon the authority of an old Dutch chart by Vankeulen, " which is but one shade better than no authority at all," a bank was inserted at 107 leagues W.S.W., true, fipom Brava, or in lat. 13° 0' N., long. 29° 50' W. " On January 17th and 18th, 1848, on board H.M.F.M. briff Villa Flor, Lieutenant Commandant P.V.C. Louveiro e Pinho, on her way from Loanda to Lisbon, saw breakers, and a shoal in 12° 30' N., long. 28° 56'. She afterwards sailed over the position first assigned to Gar9aa shoal, without seeing it." Atlen, or PoBQAS Bank, between the Cape Verde Islands and the African coast. In the early charts of the Atlantic this bank ba:> always been shown, as extending 60 leagues in length N. and S., with a breadth of o leagues. Nothing more than thiH appeared to be known of it except the statement that it was all deep water, and not dangerous to ^\app{n^.— {^Oriental Navigator, p. 27.) It was unsuccessfully sought for by the Leven in 1819. In some later charts it has been omitted for want of somo confirmation, but this seems to be revived by a cast of the 1 :'^ taken in the Birken- head steamer, in her voyage to Ascension, under the command of Mr. J. B. ^ Jon, R.N., on November 11th, 1850. ITie position, careftiUy deduced from cmonometer and observation, is 17° 0' N., long. 20° 3' 15' W., and the denth 86 fathoms. The bottom appeared to consist of frteces of shells and sand, '• dmall particles of coral. Mr. Aylen says, that " I did not ike heuving the ship to, to take another cast, particularly as I considered myself on the edge of the bank only, and that at noon, when on its centre, I would again try, which I did without success, with 90 fathoms of line. — Nautical Maaazine, 1851, p. 155. '' Bcbidea this sounding hereabout, another of 164 fathoms was obtained^ IfilO k» Captai 2r40'. Brea for the mile N< long. 32 lat. 11° 20 feet which 1< Lieuti about 2^ of such current-1 watera s( to the ea This sv Longuevi the Span; danger (1 of the fac it, withou more or h also a mei Ea.st of M sand J am Joachim ^ ever, this \ the Spauie But the renders it 1 and found fathoms in M. de H minica, anc romtantly i this place, i This is d< to Jamaica, This vigil M. Qalissio had previo.i Rainbou), n seen in 1825 It is dispi Dolphin. Mart A shoal w mentioned 1 ■'■uiui, OI tJ Jtetef^! \M Blaesdale, L» W. In luded, and kera seen, ims. The 1 the welL of a man's be coral, as appears to lottom was with 1,000 W. by N., iverpool in May, 1856, by* a rock 0' W. ; was I sides. We 'or the chro- rithin thirty iiscovery by it one shade ,S.W., true, , Lieutenant !jisbon, saw bd over the lean coast. Is extending re than thin icr, and not ruUy sought ant of somo the Birkcn- \. B. ^^ox^, \r 0' N., consist of " I did not myself on again trvi ls»/»«, 1851, BETWEEN THE EQUATOR AND 20*. Captain FrSminville, to the N.W. of this cast of Mr. Aylen, in lat. 18' 35', and Iohr. 21° 40'. ' ' e Texeiro's Shoal, in lat. 12" C, long. 38" 28'. (?) Breal jrs seen by Don An^l Texeiro, Captain in the Spanish navy, April 16, 1810, for the . imeriean ship Topa^o, bound for Boston. They appeared to extend about a mile North to South, and 2 cables' length from East to West; latitude, 12° 0' N., long. SS" 28'. Again, Captain Edgar Wakeman, of the ^«fe/oMfe„January 11th, 1866 ; lat. ir 21', long. 33° 33' W.,a&yfhreakera ahead; tacked ship, the stern being within 20 feet of the reef: on nearing it again saw three discoloured patches to leeward, which looked like shoal water. Lieutenant Maury, who records this (vol. ii., 1859, p. 162), caused the traclrs of about 22 vessels which had passed near this to be examined ; but there was no notice of such a reef in these journals. It is therefore presumed, that it was one of those current-rips so singular and frequent in this latitude, probably at the junction of watei-s setting in oppcc'te Jirections, aa Captain Wakeman states that the diift wa« to the eastward. (See page 283, etc., ante.) Galleon's Bank, in lat. 15' 56', long. 49° 40'. (:") This supposed bank, or reef of rocks, was discovered on the 23rd of July, 1730, by Longueville, the pilot of the San Fernando, commanded by M. de Navaro, Admiral of the Spanish galleons, By^ the detail into which Longueville enters concerning this danger (his journal bdng in the Depot de la Marine at Paris), there can be no doubt of the fact. It appears that the San Fernando apparently struck on and passed over it, without receiving any damage. Other ships in the same fleet also struck, with more or less violence, but without actual injury. In the Depot de la Marine there is also a memorandum of the existence of a bans in 15° North latitude, and 228 le\gu«>« East of Martinique, upon which there is said to be 40 fathoms of water, bottom of flne Band ; and over which Joachim Voette is said to have passed and sounded. Who this Joachim Voette was is not mentioned, nor when he ascertained its position. If, how- ever, this last-mentioned bank really exists, it may oe. tho same as that over which the Spanish galleons passed. But the careful examination by Lieutenant Lee, in the Dolphin, of the locality, renders it highly improbable that any danger exists. He was four days in its vicinity and found no bottom with 550 fathoms in Longueville's position, nor with 250 fathoms in Voctte's position, liusides other soundings. M. do Humboldt has noticed, that there exists in the parallel of the island Do- minica, and very near the 55th degree of longitude, a space wherein the water seeins constantly milky, although the sea is very deep : and he asks, " May there not be, in this place, some sunken volcanic islet ?" Betsy's Rock, in lat. 18° 7', long. 50" 0'. (?) ' This is described as a flat rock, seen by the brig Betsy, on her passage fr<' i Greenock to Jamaica, 17th of September, 1808. . / ;< ...>:** Gnlisioniere's Rock, 12° 20' N., and 54° 49' W. (?) This vigia was exhibited, on the chart of •* 'Pochette, as a rock, mentioned by M. GalisHionierc, and some other navigtrt^rs. £>ot, nearly in tho scm'^ situation, hod previo;»"' > '>een called the Isle of Fonaeca. it is said to iiave been seen by tlio Rainbotv, n ' ■ f-war. Wc havo been vaguely informed, that the rock was again seen in 1822. It is disproved by IV, sounding of 2,Ci',.) tarhims obtained by I • jwti nant Lee in the Dolphin. Martin's Reef, eastward of Uuadnlc .i»c (P), in 10° 42' N., an. 58° 63' W. A shoal was inserted hereabout on the chart of Bellin, 1742, who says that it is mentioned by many navigators. " It wa« Rn:Rin seen in July, 1816, by Captain Martin, of the ship John Manning, The shoal f^temed to consist of yellow sand, with 690 DESCRIPTION OF SHOALS, VIGIAS, TaV. «r>.. aM-weed upon it ; to be about half a mile in length from Ev c to West, and a quarter of a mile in breadth from North to South." This reef was again announced by the ship Cecilia, of Glasgow. 19th July, 1823, b V which the position assignvd was, 16° 44' N., and 68" 6V W. To the 'Commander of t^e t^liip it appeared to be about 1| or 2 miles long, and onlv about 30 feet wide : the VroBti}\i; pet I- shaped like the bulb of a thermometer, seemed, dangerous. Lftt^tly, Capcuin N,ewbold, of the brig IVantit, on her passage fivm Halifax to St. yincont, ii. }* ' rnary, 1842, disoovei-ed a shoal to windward of the Island of Antigua, :*', \jx 16" 'rl ^ ,, lonf . 59° 6'. He examined it as carefully as ciroumstances would p&rruit, anr! <';( noribes it to be about 2()0 feet long, and 80 feet wide, with 3 fethoms water in the nuntre, and much shallower on the edges. Licutcnvit Lee, U.S.N., examined this locality : — He says, " he sounded along its iMU-allel from 68' 3d' to 60° 15', with a clear radius of vision, and examined the iieiji^h- traurhnod of ^j -> mean position assumed by Laurie, within two miles of which Mr. Bcu»iiii^ . Boutiding from a boat, found no bottom at 3,200 fathoms' depth. At the positio).' \\here the Transit located this reef in 1842, we did not find bottom with 1,01)0 fttthonia." Delaware Skoal, eastward of Tbinidad. Captain Kos8,ln the brigantiue Delaware, ft>om Charleston, on the 10th September, 1839, at noon, in lat. 10 38', struck soundings in 37 fathoms, shells and sandy bottom. At 3 p.tn., steering South, passed over a rooky bank, having 5, 7, and 10 fathoms, aiul bottom plainly seen ; inferred fttim the distance run that the latitude of the shallow part of the bank must lie in 10° 37' N., longitude, by chronometer, UU° 3' W. At a quarter past 3 /).m. had 70 fathoms of water. \v .!,.= ;/, St. Esprit Beef, in lat. 14° 37', long. 68" 59' (P) " On the 4th of July, 1817, the French ship St. EsprU, in lat. 14" 37', long. 58° 5ti', 35 leagues distant from Martinique, fell in with a chain of rocks, about 8 feet under water, extending about 500 fathoms from North to South, and being about 100 fathoms broad, and were plainly seen on the bottom from the vessel." In theearlier editions of this work there are notices of Capt. Pierre Renault of the Automne seeing a danger hereabout in 1 723, and of Capt. Labordc passing over a supposed sand-blank 80 or 90 leaguei^ from the island. {See Edition 1825, p. 258.) It was annoimced, in the year 1833, that H.M.S. North Star, on the 11th of Febru- ary, while on her way from Antigua to Demerary, under the command of Lord William Pa^t, struck soundings in 7 fathoms, near the position assigned to the Ertprit Reef ; and, in consequence of this, Vice- Admiral Sir George Cockburn, commander- in-chief on the station, directed the sbipc. of his squadron to search for the danger; ♦*-'5se were the Ariadne, S'pj'^iire, VeKf^il, Forte, and Victor, in January, 1834, and V. fatea, in 1826 ; but, after a vigilant search, neither reef nor shoal have been found. — (See Nautical Magazine, November, 1834.) Again, on the 11th of October, 183ii, H.M.S. D> -patch, Captain Daniells, passed over or near the place where the North Star (struck soundings ; the lead was kept going for six hours, without any indication of shoal water. If it exists, it is therefore dear that the true situation of the danger has not been ascertained. Clowes' Reef, to the northward ;>f Po-axo 'tco, l»t. 10° 17', long. 66" 50f. An American schooner, in IK! ; aaiick ov a iock to ♦he northward of Porto Rico, in between 19° and "0* North, i his was thougl to oe the same danger on which, some time after, the brig F \rt. Captain Baxter, «.rack and remained several hours. The i-eef, which has been -•• riously reprciieifted on the charts, vas seen by riuntain Clowes, in the bhip Caledonia, on the 24th of April, 1823 ; and ', ivptuiii Clowes assis^i : for iU situation lat. 19° 17', and long. Oo" 50|'. It is ubout a quarter of a mile in extent from East • - West, with a very little water on it. A quantity of kcu- weed won i^een at each enu, ;vhidi apjK'ared t; be drifting to the S.W. The snip was within a mile of the r«ef. Further nroot oi the exiMttinci! of this must be Icl 'oiiKn>'>U'>« I VOLCANIC REGION. 691 id a quarter . July, 1&23, tmmander of ;t wide : the lUfax to St. of Antigua, tances would itU 3 fathoms ded along its ed the neigh- ,f which Mr. ipth. At the , bottom with We have thus concluded the catalogue of dangers and presumed dangers which have been stated to exist to the embaiTassment of uavigrition, and which have for ao many years '* disH^urcd our chartu." As will be seen, the direct test of the sounding lead has caused tho disappearance of most of them ; and, as was at first stated, they are only retained iii this edition to show the reasons upon which they may be ignored. At the same time it is well to mention now, as will be also done presently, that these deep sea soundings are not altogether satisfactory ; indeed, in very many in- Ntanoes they are more than probably erroneous. But they at least demonstrate that the ocean is very deep in their locality, and until a more satisfactory examiuation be made, they must sumce to remove these .'cportod dangero. th September, lis and sandy ig 5, 7, and 10 the latitude of aometer, C0° 3' ", long. 68° 56', ,ut 8 feet under ping about 100 Renault of the passing over a 125, p. 258.) llthof Febru- imand of I-ord •d to the EHorit n, commanaev- for the danger ! lary, 1834, and ,ve been found. October, 1^33, here the NoHli any indication of the danger 66° 60|'. I of Porto Rico, iger on which, several houw. en by ^>vl'*''^ I'lowes aRsv4' ' Ci of a mile in sea- weed wus was within a itiuil. I VOLCANIC EEGION. - In the neighboui-hood of the Et^uator, and between longitudes 18° and 23° W., is a space which nas been very fertile in former years in ths production of supposed roeka and sand-banks. The nature of this space is now better understood, and we haTe now only the frequent announcements of volcanic shocks having^ been felt. They are indeed very numerous, and in our Memoir for the South Atlantic, pages 84 — 88, we have given a series of these occurrences. They need not, therefore, be repeated here. It is now well known that the effects of an earthquake or tremora at sea has ex- actly the same effect on vessels as if they had rubbed over a reef of rocks, or the heavy cabte had suddenly runout. We have manv instances of this, and such effects may be looked for in crossing the E(^uator within these limita. It may perhaps extend as far to the West as the volcanic islets of Peiiedo de San Pedio. To the list given before, as above stated, we may had, by way of exaniple here, the following : — * Captain Ballaird, of the ship Rambler, from Calcutta, on October 30th, 1860, in lat. 16° 30' N., long. 54° 30' W., and Captain Potter, of the bark Millwood, last from Rio, half an hour later on the same day, when in lat. 23° 30' N., long. 68' W., each felt a volcanic shock. These vessels were about 620 miles apart. Supposing them to be in direct line, in which the earthquake was travelling, it» rate will appear to be about 1 mile in 6 secondui >^hi«h «J only a iittle slower than sound travela through the air. ., , , Tho Russian ship Dallas, W. Wikander commander, March 20, 1861, at 7 p.tn., lat. 0° 27' N., long. 20° 30' W., tiie ship apparently went over the ground ; the ship s masts and yai-ds were shaken. Found afterwards that the false keel had gone. At the same moment another ship, the Melbourne, of Dundee, C. Cowie master, in lat. 0" 20' N., long. 20° 36' W. (that is 8J miles distant from the RusMan nhip in com- pany), was startled by hearing a loud rambling noise, and at the same time felt the ship tremble from stem to stern, which lasted tour or five minutes. ITie ship Fhrence Xtghtingale, January 23th, 1869, ha%ing the St. Paul Rock, or Pencng the mer lunar distan were clear o for several d no bottom ai That we 1 stances ; yet Barh: :. what . ^i my humble which the M * It seems ■'here Captain niaking as a f5 I*e, in the 1 101, 102. t In 1813, t •iisooloured : t] "ardhore; wj charged by tht #*%■ .-Mm '■ i«F WL «rwards le shoal) iirence. in lat. 0° I through for about } did not It a shock ship bAd ;onaiB. A fine; lat. ship. ral nature lator ; but ird, or else 23" 30' N., id peculiar stated, we hs range of supposing eding 2,000 111 evidence im of -water lis passage r extraor- fathoms. ent setting and deaa Greenwich ; liver water, EiidiHe Inued theii' .. fathoms. j>art of ti\c fe, and that Iks, ho had and that, Pilot fir komcDon it DISCOLOURED WATER. found at the distance of 10 or 80 leagues to the eastward of that island, and that there are no soundings, though the water seems as if there were.* The passage above quoted, from the old Book of Directions, is as follows : — "In the latitude of Barbadoes, about 70 or 80 leagues to the eastward, you Avill find the water discolouied and prodigiously thick, as if there were soundings; but there aie none, and you may depend on being at the distance aforesaid from flie i8land."t " In alluding to Mr. Luccock's remark about the patches of water which exhibit a brown and di; ty appearance, and also to the note from Captain Kotzebue in the New Sailing Directory for the Ethiopic, page 42, I should question, with all deference, whether the depth of water in such places was tried to a sufficient degree of cer- tainty. " On our passage from the West Indies to Europe in July, 1837, at about four in the afternoon of the 7th, a streak was observed on the surface of the sea, exactly in the same manner as Captain K. describes, and at the moment we passed over it the lead was hove in a very proper manner without finding bottom ; but, having lowered the boat, soundings were found to exist, although in more than 30 fathoms of water. The latitude computed from observations taken at noon, was 21° 12' N., and long, by chronometer, 58° 42' W. — A. H. Biaavhop Oreevelink." (Lieutenant Lee found 2,800 fathoms here.) Off the Coast of Guyana, in the morning of the 17th of September, 1835, en the tracK of the Echo from Antigua toward Surinam, there appeared at about seven o'clock, in every direction upon the surface of the ocean, several large spots of dis- coloured water, more or less thickly mingled as it seemed with mud. It was a fine morning ; the sun rose in all its splendour, and not a single cloud was there to throw its shade upon the water, which was uncommonly gmooth, although the ship ran 6 miles an hour ; besides the water in some of the spots were so thick as to make the blue vaves curl against their edges. Having, says M. Greevelink, the watch at the time, ; gave warning of this strange occurrence to our captain (the late and much- lamented W. H. van Vosa), who came on deck and ordered me to keep — ^not to alter — our course '. /hich we passed through of those spots, yet we did not heave the lead, as it V. le first day in which we gained a breeze after fourteen days struggling mth horrible calm and rainy weather, rnd two-thirds of our crew confined to their hammocks. While in tlie midst of these spots I observed ti titude by the moon, then pass- ing the meridian 11° 47', and the longitude by obv ; i-^ters, and at the same time by lunar distances, three excellent sets, 53° 47'. In ac out three-quarters of an hour we were clear of them, and the sea resumed its former clearness. The current, equatorial, for several days remained northerly, yet was not very strong. (Lieutenant Lee found no bottom at 2,780 fathoms.) That we had not been in soundings we felt nearly convinced by existing circ'^n- Btances ; yet how came this muddy water here P The common discoloured water of Barba " •• was not, as the latter is a large extent of water of a diiferent but some- what : . ^r hue than that of the ocean ; at least, so far as we have seen it. As for my humble opinion, I seek for a cause of this appearunce only in the ' .ut found oottom at 240 fathoms. Captain Nockells, iU two previous voyages, found the water in the same place very much discoloured, whi' ■ he supposed might originate from the melting of the ice in the northern latitudet^ . ou \ remarkable change in the i 'lour of the sea was observed by M. Dupctit Thouai-s, boud the^ French ftigate / '-^niM, in lat. 21° 60', long. 19* 34' W., iu the same The officers tliought it was a bank, but spot which Fraisier had alreads jinted o:.it. no bottom was found with 550 fathoms, f " DEPTH OF THE ATLANTIC OCEAN, AND DEEP-SEA ";■; .; .■:A.- SOUNDINGS. It was formerly considered that the lower bed of ocean-water was, from the pres- sure and weight of the incumbcut masses, so dense is to be rather of the nature of solid matter than the natmal fluid. However, a low facts will serve to dispel such a notion. The descent of the deep sea lead is quite as rapid at a depth when the upper weight must be enormous, as at less distance from the surface, and no tendency to obstruct its downward passage can be observed at the greatest depth yet attained, ex- * Verhand. enBerigten, Amstenliun, 1854, p. 386. t Voyage de la Venus, vol. iii, p. 446. cept th freqner the idei be for a Itisi square i creased nor the to the b( square i ened abc enormou into a sai of their very slig The lei to the b will offer as succest or 3,000 f the resist Among that recor midway tl obtained t Captain V 1,300 fatl thought tl sounding affect navij cannot be ( ments. T] in the " Ni On July muda : — N( fathoms; n On Augu and Ncwfoi The whole for nearly i below the s On the s fatiioms in atl ached of iathoms, wl Mooney. But the g U\ikh, iu tl 3,700 lathon was suppose fathoms, at i sounding; t whatever ai character; f down and ru DEEP SEA SOUNDINGS. 690 found re- Q declivity, ;e, so as to urn of un- ic gravitjr ; remain tor lerein con- ds may be ) 1 Stort that r W. longi- iculavly rc- O' and ujorc ' N., white ietsifa Rock, phouomcua large extent covers either om the same (S'ater in lat. of this, with ,ng. 54' 30 to 35, observing chronometer, le place very the ice in )ctit Thouai-s, ill the same a bank, but 3EA pm the pres- 16 nature of spel such a ^en the upper . tendency to I attained, ex- cept that which is due to the firiction of the sDUndins-line. Again, the whale fishers frequently find their prev to descend perpendicularly to such an enormotu depth, that the idea of an impenetrable density, or even of any considerable increase of it, cannot be for a moment entertained. It is true that the pressure increases with the depth, to the amount of 1 5 lbs., upon square inch for every 34 feet in depth ; but the density is not thereby sensibly in- creased owing to the incompressibility of water ; so that neither the buoyant force, nor the resistance to the motion of any body, are sensibly increased from the surface to the bottom. At the d^pth of 3,000 fatlioms, fol- instance, the pressure upon a square inch i nearly 8,000 lbs., but the column of water of 18,000 reet is only short- ened about lUO feet ; the density is then but slightly increased $ but the effect of this enormous presHure upon compressible bodies, as air, wood, &c., is to condense them into a smaller bulk, by which they may be rendered heavier than water, and will sink of their own weight. A piece of wood cannot float at the bottom of the sea, but a very slight extraneous force will bring it to the surface. The lead, if allowed to descend alone, will fall with a uniform and rapid velocity to the bottom ; but if a line be attached to the lead, a few hundred feet of the line will offer a resistance to the motion nearly equal to the whole weight of the lead, and as successive lengths are drawn into the water, this fesi stance is increased, till at 2,000 or 3,000 fathoms depth, the weight will be almost entii'ely suspended in the sea by the resistance of the water along the sides of the line.* Among the earliest experiments, perhaps the first, of these deep-sea soundings is that recorded by Captain Edward Sabine, who, on November 13th, 1822, when about midway the Caymans and Cape Antonio, in the Caribbean Sea, sunk a cylinder and obtained the temperature at a depth exceeding 1,000 fathoms. This was followed by Captain Wauchope, in H.M.S. ^urydice, who gained water from a depth of about 1,300 fathoms. After that. Captain (afterwaid Admiral Sir Francis) Beaufort thought that he attained a depth nearly the same in the Strait of Gibraltar ; but his sounding is shown to be faUacious. Although the results can scarcely be said to affect navigation, still in a work like the present so interesting a feature of its subject cannot be overlooked. We shall gfive here the details of some of those great experi- ments. The first was made by Gaptain Bamett, of H.M.S. Thunder, and is related in the " Nautical ^agazine " for 1849. On July 10th, 1848, lat. 25° 55' N., long. 66° 0' W., between St. Thomas and Ber- muda : — No current, sounded with 2d0lb. of pig ballast ; the line broke at about 3,250 fathoms; run out in 1** 11' 34". On August 3rd, 1848, lat. 41° 19', long. 44° 16' W., between the Western Islands and Newfoundland Bank, same weight as before, current N. W. by W., 2 knots an hour. The whole line, 3,700 fathoms, run out in l"* 15' 27 ', and held the boat with the reel for nearly half an hour against the current, when the line broke about 300 fathoms below the surface. On the same day tried a line of iron wire, varying in size from Nos. 1 to 6, 4,000 fatlioms in length, W')und on a small reel, the smallest part first, vdth a weight fttlaclied of Gl lb., but a hand lead would have been better. It broke at 2,000 iathoms, which run out in 20' 53". This experiment was suggested by Lieutenant Mooney. But the greatest length of wire line sent down is that effected by Lieutenant /. C. Wahh, in the U.S. scho8, in June and July, 1857, and 34 soundings were obtained, the depths being estimated by the length of line and by the machine as heretofore. The sinker employed was self-detaching upon touching the bottom, and in a quill attached to the support, bottom was brought up in almost every instance in small quantities. The nature of this bottom is alluded to previovtsly in pp. 337, 338, (245.) and (246.), and tiie very interesting features it first brought to light are there I'elated. The failure of the Atlantic Cable having suggested th^ necessity of a shorter sea route, Commander Dayman was despatched m H.M.S. Gorgon, in September and October, 1858, and obtained soundings between Newfoundlana, the Azores, and Eng- land, gaining much experience as to the best methods of sounding, and and also of estimating the depths. Another project for the telegraph cable having arisen, in July, 1860, H.M.S Bull- dog started unaer the command of Captain Sir Leopold M'Clintock, of Arctic celebrity, and obtained the depths between the Fseroe Islands and Iceland, and then^je to OreeU' land and Labrador, with most satisfactory results. The soundings were first obtained. generally by cod-line, with an iron sinker of llSlbs., the line and sinker being lost at each sounding. The depth being thus ob- tained, a machine for bringing up the bottom was ne:^t sent down oy & strraiget line, and a self-detaching tubular weight or sinket of 100 lbs. The appatatos, which brought up specimens of the bottom, was a double scoop, 5 inches in diameter, kept open so long as the weight is dependent on it, but forcibly closes by means of a vul- canized india-rubber band the moment it is detached by touching the bottom. _ This brought up specimens in large quantities. It was contrived by Mr. Steil, the assistant engineer, and, with some modinoations proposed after their return, has been called the Bulldog Machine, The soundings obtained in these expeditions, although of the greatest -importance, but lying out of the beaten track of navigation, are not inserted in the tables here- after, which give most of those hitherto recorded to the ,South of lat.' 60°. They will prove useful should it be supposed that rocks or shoals are seen in their neighbourhood.. V: ■■' ;fTt"-' , "!A>: LMV y. 4 'i' (698 ) SOUNDINGS. BETWEEN LATITUDES 40" AND 80' N. Lm. n. LoMo. W. Depth. Lat. N. Loxo. W. Depth. O 1 i Fathoms. » . , Fathoms. 47 " 10 252fi a 45 58 »9 35 19 rf 46 4a 13 5 • 1400 » 49 59 17 35 2700 .. 46 la «3 3 1800 .. 49 57 13 16 1480 .. 40 24 "5 "5 1200 4" 38 9 ' 1800 .. 4' 4 H 31 2000 .. 4<5 3" 12 4a 2190 .. 4« 55 »3 40 1900 .. 44 5 13 >9 2460 .. 4a 16 22 3a 1884 .. 4> 7 15 29 2.)a0 .. 43 17 ai 20 1800 .. 40 20 1748 2B/>0 .. 44 5 20 2100 .. 4a 10 42 4 1800 .. 44 34 18 47 2374 .. 46 53 37 4« 2000 .. 4,« II 17 26 2100 .. 48 16 35 aa 2100 .. 45 53 16 7 2300 .. 49 53 31 34 1900 .. 46 33 >4 39 2404 .. 43 10 4656 2700 e 47 6 >- 57 2340 .. 42 34 43 '9 41 28 2725 .. . 47 48 II 12 2274 .. 4» 7 • 3000 .. 46 48 ai 42 2464 4 40 10 35 » 2775 .. 444a ?4 35 1600 .. 40 34 58 30 2750 d 44 43 »4 35 1370 .. 41 7 54 37 2710 .. 43 47 24 24 1840 .. 41 43 51 31 3130 .. 45 7 26 8 1400 .. • 4a aa 50 1050 .. 4626 i 45 »3 ' 42 44 ><5 55 1400 .. 41 9 43 40 64 44 1975 .. a7 38 1320 .. 40 50 2200 .. 28 20 1210 .. 41 la 62 38 2200 .. 40 49 29 1080 .. 41 40 59 »3 2600 .. 40 48 30 2 830 .. 41 40 56 I 2494 .. 40 35 3' 5« 1230 .. 40 36 54 "8 3460 .. 42 40 31 II 1G80 .. 41 7 49 »3 4580 .. 46 '5 30 38 1660 .. 43 40 4a 55 2700 .. 30 4 1760 .. 44 41 40 16 1800 .. >9 »3 21 10 »7 *7 ao 's BETWEEN LATITUDES 30° AND 40° N. • 33 8 16 10 • 2940 d 39 40 33 34 1926 e 34 18 •645 2298 .. 39 12 38 54 3» 3» 1074 .. ^f> 59 19 58 2400 .. 3' » 925 .. l4 }.(> 49 19 54 2740 .. 38 33 a? 33 28 50 900 .. M 30 49 27 25 • 1100 .. 38 23 409 .. H 30 49 >7 >5 • 2200 .. 38 51 28 27 70(5 .. i 39 '4 19 I 2820 .. 39 17 27 46 804 .. 1 34 23 31 46 «o 57 2160 .. 39 41 38 54 afi 37 1426 .. »> 3 2840 .. 33 30 16U0 d .' 37 50 3» 7 2000 $ 3« 17 33 8 2400 .. * 36 a7 ao • 4U00 . 39 36 41 6 2(i74 .. ]■_ 35 6 26 50 • • 4000 .. 33 35 38 3» 1800 / • No Bottom. a Soundings taken by Comimmiler Dayindn, in H.BI.8. Cyclop: Ciiptain Pullen, in H.M.H. Cf/r/op», 1858. Commander Daymun, in H.il.S. Gorgon, 1848 LiouUmiint 0. H. Derryiaun, U.S. brig Dolphin. inlcnn In TT.H.8 J>t**(ovM-. TT.8.S. Siiique/innna. b i> •1 e II II d 11 II • inlcnn / »» II a3 ij 21 '9 28 55 a9 21 •i a3 6 21 18 E? vrf' te Depth. Fathoms. 19 <; 2700 ,. 1680 .. 1800 .. 2190 .. 2560 .. 2.>00 .. 2t>'>U .. 18')0 .. 2000 .. 2100 .. 1900 .. 2700 e 272'j .. • 3000 .. 2775 .. 2750 d 2710 .. 3130 .. 1050 .. 1975 .. 2-200 .. 2200 .. 2600 .. 2695 .. 8460 .. 4S80 .. 2700 .. 1800 .. 1025 1075 , 925 , 960 409 706 806 1426 1600 2400 2676 1800 158 bhitt. ( 699 ) BETWEEN LATITUDES 30» AND 4(f JH.-^ContiHUtd,) Lat. N. LoNO. W. Depth. Lat. N. LoHO. W. Depth. , , Fathoms. • . , Fathoms. 36 16 4* 5a • 6070 f 32 46 S9 56 • 800 .. 34 " 43 " 2800 A 32 10 59 9 • 300 .. 38 15 45 33 2000 « 31 17 53 a2 600 .. 38 50 43 49 43 a8 1600 P 38 38 66 31 • 1625 k 3> '0 2080 d 33 34 61 38 • 1950 .. »3» I 44 a» 2260 .. 30 5 58 5a • 1000 .. 3» »9 47 a • 1960 .. yi a4 6852 2920 d 3a 55 47 58 • 6600 .. 38 3 67 14 • 4920 .. 33 3 48 3« . 3660 .. 3« 43 74 « 1600 e 32 47 50 3260 .. 36 33 73 • 1900 .. J3 50 5a 34 2600 i ^37 6 68 2 2000 .. 3» 6 44 47 6600 P.. 38 13 62 32 3700 .. 31 I 44 31 2300 .. 39 39 30 38 70 30 • 1000 d 35 7 , a5 43 1040 .. 70 10 • 600 J 37 >8 56 22 6000 PA 33 3 72 lA 73 6 • 346 .. 37 a« 6548 • l'^5 J 5t: • 700 .. 35 5> 6556 • iOOfr .. 73 59 • 1460 .. BETWEEN LATITUDES 20» AND 30» N. 18 32 49 48 2370 .. 29 12 22 5d 28^0 d 21 26 5' 3« 2300 .. a3 58 24 20 2700 ., 22 27 53 «5 23itO .. 21 6 a4 38 2626 .. ai 45 55 46 2800 .. 10 27 30 2000 I 12 9 55 '7 2136 n 4 16 21 42 2700 .. 20 51 58 a6 2800 d 2 20 28 4/. 1080 .. 20. 2 61 2 2810 .. a? 5 21 21 1700 d 21 19 66 27 2960 .. 27 2 30 48 258U .. 23 42 67 37 2940 .. 20 2 3' 6 2660 .. 29 26 28 20 5* 4a 1480 .. 21 48 3a 3« 7020 P.. 59 44 2900 .. 20 29 34 «8 2850 .. 28 4 61 44 3080 .. 26 43 38 39 • 800 j 28 23 ^1; 2518 .. a5 30 37 44 1720 .. 26 49 2710 .. a5 30 37 4a • 1560 .. 28 14 69 24 2950 .. a5 4 3* «3 • 1000 .. 20 12 S9 39 • 1-200 J ' a3 43 3a M • 2180 .. 22 39 59 a$ • 800 .. a3 41 3a 39 • 2200 .. '3 I 59 «* • 358 .. a3 «5 3a a4 • 2200 .. 23 36 59 a5 • 600 .. 21 19 38 10 4700 m a4 37 59 49 • 634 .. 28 55 41 21 • 1880 d a5 " 60 • 6-20 .. 29 lA 21 6 35 49 2270 .. a5 45 60 7 • 656 .. 42 9 2370 .. 26 32 60 7 3825 .. a3 « 44 1760 .. 24 II 61 44 3450 .. 21 18 46 .4 1876 .. 24 27 «a 55 • 460 .. • No Bottom. d Soundings tokon by Lioutemint O. H. TSvnyxuKa, U.S. brig IMpkit*. g „ „ in TT.S.8. St. Louii. „ U.S.8. Flytnouth. „ John Adami. „ by Liout Loe in U.S. brig Dolphin. Ctipt. Vlntt. U.S. AibaMu. Captiiin Pullen, in H.M.S. Cyclop*, m „ „ In U.H.M. Portmouik. N „ „ U.S.S. Slwimer Saranae, It ( 70b ) BETWEEN LATITUDES 20* AND 30' N.— (ContfntW.) Lat. N. Long. W. Depth. Lat. N. Long. W. Depth. • .. , Fathoms. • , . • 1 Fathoms. 34 38 «3 30 • 1000 J »7 10 76 59 1180 k »4 34 <5 3» • 1000 .. 37 10 75 6 1806 .. »4 37 65 13 • 3560 .. 36 31 74 «o 1590 ../ "5 »4 ««57 • 2350 .. 36 38 73 50 1778 .. »6 33 <7 33 • 1000 .. »5 30 73 7 4100 .. 37 31 38 56 «K 6 • 1000 .. 3448 70' 33 • 1898 .. ^9 4 • 1000 ... 34 48 h 39 8600 P " 37 19 77 '8 600 k 32 40 69 2762 .. BETWEEN THE EQUATOR AND 20° N. 18 18 41 • 2000 J 17 2 38 8 2160 d 16 t8 51 • 1900 .. 18 44 29 18 2620 .. 45 18 39 2680 .. 18 49 36 16 2820 .. 3 17 »5 45 • 900 .. '9 »3 40 23 258) .. 3 ' 18 36 2725 .. 10 I'n • 1000 > > 36 19 13 2780 .. 57 2980 .. 3 10 •9 57 2760 .. » 7 4» 58 • lOUO .. 2690 .. 1 7 43 44 • 2000 .. 8 43 10 53 2270 .. 54 44 5a • 1000 . 7 »7 30 7 2060 .. 43 45 ' • 1000 . 1940 .. I 10 44 " • 600 . 5 37 >9 35 • 2019 .. 54 43 36 • 600 . 4 »7 ■ 9 31 2540 P.. 43 44 »' 640 . 4 i >9 15 2125 P.. 7 58 47 5> 1970 . 4 >4 19 20 2670 .. 10 :% 47 40 • 600 . 3 49 19 6 2760 .. II 12 47 37 48 58 • 1866 . 351 ii 39 19 6 2:60 .. 15 • 260 . "5 H 1970 .. 45 56 49 34 • 500 . 18 19 »3 48 1676 .. '5 5» 49 34 • 6<.0 . i9 II 1612 .. 49 40 • 6'!0 . >7 35 33 JO 1370 .. «5 5« 49 'i9 • 500 . 16 30 30 58 1941 .. '5 6 jO 34 • 600 . '6 34 20 47 1875 .. 14 31 5' »4 • 664 . «6 59 31 38 1680 .. 13 28 53 »6 • 1960 . >5 »4 31 47 1220 .. 12 47 5* 58 2780 . ii t 33 29 13R0 .. II 47 5J 49 t 1)00 . • »> 57 1120 .. 13 20 54 49 2570 . 15 J >3 «3 790 .. '5 '5 55 « 3020 . >3 50 • 900 .. '5 54 56 45 5» 6 • 1000 . 'J ' >» 59 • 680 .. '6 43 • 346 . •' 7 »» 57 1160 .. 16 43 58 55 59 * • 8200 . 1120 .. 1643 • iOOO . 18 10 >4 5' 2080 d 19 3 59 33 3300 . AN AC Many oonsidera ^peared Ehrenbei Infusoria fiillen; a) considera end of thi Mtriking The ph Cape Ve« fallen is 10° N. to i Itetween 4 diHtancc o according noinrnon h dust has Be coast of Al lcnB:.35''24 andthertfo i»f the Senei On the 1( • No Bottmn. d Boundiiigs tAkeu by Lieiitoniint O. H. Berrymiiii, 11.8. brig Dolphiit. j „ „ )>y Liout Leo in U.S. brig Dolphin, k „ „ ^;iipt. Plan, U.H. Jl(Kf»>(. St. Jago, HOI wind-vane a air, OS the h1 previously I from the coa "nly 1 mile i the wind wa Iihcrc waH c tliat the uHti tolleoted on it does not el Kriiy bead. In 18;}8, ft ^l^y, wan sai lat. 21° 10 N qunntitioH of fumpiunioatic "lay (oi- the 7' "11 the sucto •oloured part iurptT, and m «t Icust ;J30 T "puruleu of cr K'tinliuigli \ 701 ) AOO , 664 . 960 . m . >00 570 020 000 34A 200 )00 |»00 AN ACCOUNT OF THE FINE DU8T WHICH OFTEN FALLS ON VESSELS IN THE ATLANTIC OCEAN. By Charles Darwin, Esq., F.R.S., F.S.S. Many scattered accountfl have appeared conccruing the dust which has fallen in considerable quantities on vessels on the Afiican side of the Atlantic Ocean. It has appeared to me desirable to collect theue accounts, mure especially since Professor Ehrenberg's remarkable discovery that the dust consists, in considcxable part, of Infusoria and Phytolitharia. I have found fifteen distinct statements of dust having fallen *, and several of these refer to a period of more than one day, and some to a considerably longer time. Other less distinct accounts have also appeared. At the end of this paper I will give the particular cases, and will here only refer to the more Htriking ones and make a few general remarks. The phenomenon has been most frequently observed in the neighbourhood of the ('ape Verde Archipelago. The most southern point at which dust is recorded to hive fallen is noticed by Captain Hayward,* on whose vessel it fnll whil;it sailing from lat. 10° N. to 2" 56' K. ; the distance from the nearest of the Caye Verde Islands being Iwtween 450 and 850 miles. Respecting the northern limit, the water for a great distance on both sides of Cape Noon (m lat. 38° 45) is discoloured, owing in part, according to Lieutenant Arlett,t to the quantities of falling dust. Hence the phe- nomenon has been observed over a space of at least 1,600 miles of latitude. Ill is dust has several times fallen on vessels when 'between 300 and 600 miles from the coast of Aftrica: it fell, in May, 1840, on the Princess Louise J (in lat. 14° 21' N., long. 35° 24' W.), when 1,030 miles from Cape Vorde, the neareet point of the continent, ana therefore half-way between Cayenne in South America and the dry country North uf the Senegal in Africa. ' On the 10th of Januarv, 1833, when the Beagle was 10 miles off the N.W. end of St. Jago, some very fine aunt wns found adhering to the under side of the horizontal wind-vane at the mast-head ; it appeared to have been filtered by the gauze from the nir, as the ship lay inclined to the wind. The wind had been for twenty-four hours previously E.N.E., and hence, from the position of the ship, the dust probably camo from the coast of Africa. The atmosphere was so ha/y, that the visible hori/ou was only 1 mile distant. During our stay o*" three weeks at St. Ja^o, (to February 8th) the wind was N.E., as is always the case during this time of the year ; the atmos- phere was often hazy, and very fine dust was almost ioHi»tantly falling, so that that the astronomical instruments were rougheiud. and a little injured. The dust collected on the Beagle was excessively fine-grained, and of a rtddiNli-brown colour ; it does not effervesce with acids ; it easily fuses luuler the blowpipe into u black or Igmy bead. In 1838, from the 7th t« the lOth of March, whilst Lieutenant .fames, in H.M.S. %y, was sailing, at the distance of from 330 to 380 miles from the continent, betwetn lat. 21° 10 N., long. 22° 14' W., ond lat. 17" 43 N., long. 25° o-i' W., considerable quantities of dust tell ,n his vessel, four packets of which, together with a written cumyiunication, I owe U) the kindness of Mr. I.yell. The dust which fell on the first ilay (or the 7th) was preceded by a thick haze. "and it is k iirs< i than tlint which fell nil tne succeeding days ; it contains numerous irrrtfular. transnarent, voriously- loloured particles of stone about the l-lO(M)tli of an inch square, witli some few a little uvKcr, iind much fine mattor. 'llie fact of particles of this si/< luning Ixen brought at least 330 miles fr.)m the land, is infurfsting. as bi'arinjr on the di-^tribution of the «Horule» of cryptogamic plant* and the ovules of Infusoiia. The dust which fell on \ KsntioM! ih ^rtininH, \ «41', Jt. .IHt. t GfAgrHjihuMl .foiiinal, vol. vi. y. 'i'M. Kdinliuinh New rhiUfecies, excepting one allied -to a Hungarian iosdl ; and they are of freshwater orisin, with the exception of two {Orammatophon-% oceanica and Tex- tilaria gMnilota), which are certainly marine. Professor Ehrenbeig could not detect any of the soft parts of the Lifdsoria, as if they had been quickly dried up, and hence it would appear that they must have been caught up by the wind some time after having been dead. The gieater numlx^r of the species are of wide or mundane distribution ; four species are common to Senegambia and South America, and two are peculiar to the latter country ; moreover, it is a very singular fact, that out of the many forms known to Professor Ehrenberg as characteristic of Africa, and more espe- cially of the Sahara and Senegambian renona, none were fourd in the dust. From these facts one might at first doubt wheuer the dust cime from Africa; but, con- sidering that it has invariably fallen with the wind between N.E. and S.E., that is, directly from the coast of Africa ; that the first commencement of the haze has been seen to come on with these winds ; that coarser particles have first fallen ; that the dust and hazy atmosphere are more common near the African coast than further in the Atlantic ; and lastly, that the months during which it falls coincide with those when the harmattan blows from the continent, and when it is known that clouds of dust and sand arc raised by it, I think there can be no doubt that the dust which falls in the Atlantic does come from Africa. How to explain the enigma of the absence of characteristic African forme and of the presence of two species from South America,! will not pretend to coniecture. Finally, I may remark, that the circumstance of such quantities of dust Deing periodically blown, year^ alter year, over 80 immense an area in the Atlantic Ottean, is interesting, as snowing bv how apparently inefficient a cause a widely-extended deposit may be in process of umna- tion ; and this deposit, it appears frt>m the rt?^3arches of Professor Ehrenberg, will in chief part consisr of fresh water Polygastriciik and Phytolitharia. * Thesa microscopic organised bodies have been described in the " Monatsberiohten der Berlih Akad. der Wissens, Mai, 1844 ; u. 27 Februar, 184f ," In the latter paper a full list of the names is given ; the column marked St. Jago includes those selected by myself. J. ;f,! To „ ; HMtwm'^msii I.:,-,--! , ■ APPENDIX; iJiiM ;v ■.,}f,n from the effects of iustrumental r-ror, or wrong latitude. The observations may be made at any time, with a sextant, when the sun's altitude falls between 20" and 60°, provided it be not too near noon, an under two hours, or at least one hour and a half, the nun's motion, in high latitudes, being then very slow. 4. The method of rating chronometers by hn nr obHervntions obtained at sea has been by some much insisted on, but we are f\ lly satisfied that they can never be mide vise of, for that purpose, in general practice. Lunar observations are of grciit use for detecting a (jross error in the longitude by chronometer, from any suddm cliange of rate or defect in the watch, &c. ; but i* must be evident that, where this is discovered, it would be unsafe to tnist to such a chronomejer for the remainder of the voyage. We would not be understoofl to discourage or depi-eciste the l\innr methoil of oi)tuining the- longitudf, «« wp av fuiiv awni-e of itK great ntilitv, particularlT m long vo rating " « Fre 6ned mj speaking compeas perature "Itot different foimdbe «The< from the change oi « I hav sawdust, J cots not oi "When ning on tl hur, or an iJetter thai " The B box; each wide shelvi each box, a box and wt shelves, on^ down, and i manner, nei running out was often pj magnifying " All the compare or ■ were never finally lande 5.— The f ofchronomei F. Fallows, 1 " Let a trt Wished in a « true time : ti darken the Ij notice being instant of tur intervals. Th the lamp can same be repej • "Essay c •nandor R.W, tV i' rffi<*?!fS. r.j, ur ' k ill difFera Y should be ate may be act it may chronometer ay be a few Axim. and in their inding them sver pipe to ;thod of this in merchant 8 should not in many in- Itet its rate, e wound up ,n the week, should refit t a rotatory This prae- ;urn8 of the [Uy, until it ley have let I, and never they have I, the chro- hid errors of ?on is much yree of cor- Cstrumental a sextant, bar noon, as [h latitudes, I at sea lifti* never be j-e of Rveiit iiiy suddin Iherc thin is liider of the nsr mrthoil jioulnrlT in . REMARKS ON THE USE OF THE CHRONOMETER, ETC. 705 lon|f voya^s ; but we would strongly dissuade persons from using such means for ratmff tneir chronometera.* 'imsti- 3.— Remarks exteacted from those of Captain FitzRot, R.N. *« Frequently employing chronometers in boats and very small vessels has strength- tsned my convictidn, that temperature is the chief, if not the only, cause, generally speaking, of marked changes of rate: and the balances of few watches are so weU compensated as to be proof against a long continuance of higher or lower tem- perature. ** It often happens that the air in port, or near the land, is at a temperature very different from that over the open sea in the vicinity. Hence the difference sometimes found between harbour and sea rates. " The changes so frequently noticed to take place in rates of chronometers moved fix)m the shore to the ship, and the reverse, are well known to be caused partly by change of temperature, and partly by change of situation. " I have never found chronometers go better than when the boxes were bedded in sawdust, and the watches moving freely in well-oiled gimbals. Suspending them in cots not only alters their rate, but makes them go less regularly. " When fixed to a solid substance, they feel the vibrations caused by people run- ning on the decks, by shocks, and hy cnain cables running out. A cushion, wool, hair, or any such substance, is preferable to a solid bed ; but I can think of nothing hetter than plain dry sawdust. i " The Beoffle'a chronometers were suspended in gimbals, as usual, within a wooden box ; each was placed in sawdust, divided and retained by partitions, upon one of two wide shelves. The sawdust was about 3 inches thick below, as well as at the sides of each box, and formed a bed for it which rose rather above the centre of gravity of the box and watch ; so that they could not be displaced unless the ship were upset. Tho shelves, on which the sawdust and boxes were thus secured, were between decks, low down, and as near the vessel's centre of motion as could be contrived. Placed in this manner, neither the running of men unon deck, nor firing guns (forward), nor the running out of chain cables, caused the slightest vibration in the chronometers, as was often proved by scattering powder upon theii' glasses, and watching it with a magnifying glass, while the vessel herself was vibrating to some jar or shock. " All the watches were in one small cabin, into which uc ^ "rson entered, except to compare or wind them, and in which nothing else was kt^it. The greater number were never moved from their first places, after being secured there in 1831, until finally landed at Greenwich in 1836. ' — Captain FitzRoy's Appendix, pp. 325, 326. 5. — The following easy method of comjxiring tho time indicated by any number of chronometers, with the given time at a certain station, icas published by the Rev, F. Fallows, astronomer at the Capo of Good Hope, in 1824 ; — " Let a transit instrument, or even a sextant with an artificial horizon, be esta- blished in a conspicuous situation on shore, where a clock can always be regulated to true time : then provide a powerful Argand's lump, with a shutter, so ns to be able to darken the lamp instantaneously : a few minutes before a certain hour in the evening, notice being previously given to the ships, let the lamp bo lighted, and at the proper instant of tmic let it be darkened : this may bo repeated several times at short known intervals. Then the errors of every chronometer on board of all the ships, from which the lamp can be seen, are immediately found. After a certain nural)cr of days let the same be repeated, when the daily ship rates will be given, siT'ce they are only the • " Essay on the Mnnagojiient nnd Use of Chronomftors," by RiCuftrd Owen, Vi •nandor RTsT. Pr-otixod to the voiunui of Liititudos nnd Longitudes of tho PointH of Aft iVc, l.v CaptJiin W. ¥. Owon, 4to,, 1827. 4 U om- ricH. 708 REMARKS ON THE USE OF THE CHRONOMETER, ETC. differences of these errors divided by the number of days eLipsed between the two sets of observations. It is evident that, for greater truth, thiese observations may be repeated at pleasure. No objection can be made from the chrono*' . ter's being gene- rally below deck, as one person might have his eye upon it, and atothcr immediately above him, on the upper deck, might give a stamp with his foot the instant the lamp is darkened." But the superior meuiod is by t ■ 'jnie-hall lately established in various places. -^vjci?. ,?« 6. — Sir J. Herschel gives the following very simple and efficient means of ascer- taining the ittte of a chronometer or clock, a mosc! a small slip of metal, which we will call the horizon vane. The upper edge of tHs vane, when made to coincide with the horizon line on the glass, and seen to do so through the telescope, completes the horizon for observation. In the middle of the upper edf^e of this horizon vane a small aperture is made, as, when the axis of the telescope is directed below the horizon, the vane would, but for this, entirely conceal the horizon line, by rising above it. These part* are arranged in a tube to b ifT.xed, when k- quired, to the sextant, the axis of the tube of the horizon v;;> ! uding exactly with that of the telescope of the sextant. C( III.— ON OF R.N Ther for the nomete this es branch Then use. many pi tion, an( trust thi The from the nometers other tht track; ai As it haj never aft the chart whore it ^ wanderin measurem The me down eacl observatio place, so n the place I true place, the next tr It will f( broken lin« niiig off fri in the first dead rsckoi the instant different, ai there will a the plan ha place and tl the set of tl the instant ( It is aseft some way ft * EXAMPL on the first d a fresh dopai next true plai noted as B. 'wkoning, b« 88 at C. From the i TO drawn, as ( 707 ) the two 18 may be inp gene- modiately the lamp bliahed in 3 of aacCT- liere appa- ll obsevver ;ct, as the (such ae a e the 8UC- len he ob- , and notice L which, by ibserve) the method of few precau- )f the edge, ite smooth ; from a pro- ;his is easily ced scarcely is a sidereal ^uaiated. B be enabled* •tainty as to depend for ve occurred ., -erhaps at obscured by ir other sub- ititudes from id the limits . instrument, ;echer, R-N., be not too Ithat the line Ipe, at right aed for this . of the field ?rom which J »s a small [if tHs vane, BO through e upper edge telescope is 1 the horizon led, when re- ting exactly III.— ON THE PROPER METHOD OF LAYING DOVm A SHIP'S TRACK ON SEA-CHAR rS J WITH SOME REMARKS ON THE IMPORTANCE OF TIMEKEEPERS IN NAVIGATION. BY CAPTAIN BASIL HALL, R.N., F.R.S. There is no point in practical navigation of more importance than the allowance for tho direction and velocity of currents ; and, although the introduction of chro- nometers and lunar observations has led to much more accurate methods of making this estimate, yet there is unquestionably still much obscurity belonging to thu branch of the subject. Tho mode proposed in this notice is quite as easy in practice as that in most general use. It is so obvious that I cannot help being sure that it must have occurred to many practical navigators ; but as I have never met with it in any treatise on naviga- tion, and have never seen a single chart in which the tracks were so laid down, I trust this notice will not be superfluous. The common method U as follows : — The ship's place of each day, as estimated from the log-board, is noted on the chart ; and oIho the place, as deduced from chrr/« nometeris and lunar observations. Tho first is called the place by dead-reckoning, the other the true place. The line joining the true places at noon is called the tru«^ track ; and that joining the others is called the track or course by dead reckoning. As it happens invariably that these two cracks separate very early m the voyage, and never afterward come together unless b^ accidenT, it is obvious that, upon inspecting the chart, no information will be afforded as to the point where the current began, or whore it ceased, or what was its set or its velocity ; all that we see is two tracks wandering apart from one another, and it always requires some calculation and measurement tc come to anythiag like an estimate of the true effect of the current. The method which it is proposed to substitute is this : — Let the true place be laid down each day as before, either at noon, or, which is better, at the precise moments of observation for the longitude. Let a fresh departure be taken from eve* y such true place, so noted in the chart : and whenever a true place is marked on the chart, let the place by dead reckoning at that moment, estimated by iu^-boai-d from the last true place, be also noted down. From' each true place let two hues be drawn, one to the next true place, and the other to the dead reckoning place at the same moment. It will follow from this, that the trae course of the ship will be one continued un- broken line, but the dead reckoning course will be a series of terminated lines run- ning off from the successive true places. The advantages of this method are these : in the first place, it will be evident that, as long as there is no current, the true and dead reckoning places will coincide, and there wiU be but one line on the chart ; but the instant that a current begins to act, the true and dead reckoning i>laces will be different, and consequently the lines will separate ; and whenever the current ceases, there will again be but one line. These distinctions catch the attention at once ; but the plan has this further great advantcge, that the line joining the dead reckoning place and the true place, at any given hour, vnW express correctly the direction and the set of the current, in the interval between the moment under consideration and the instant of the last preceding observation.* It is ascful, in practice, to have ti'ie line expressing the true course distinguished In some way from those marking the dead reckoning courses ; one may be a strong black * Example. — Let the ship's true place, on the first dtiy, be assumed bh at A. Let a fresh departure be thence taken, and the next true phice, or place hy observation, be noted as B. Lot the ship's place by dead reckoning, be noted at the same moment, 08 at C. Prom the true place (A), lot two lines he drawn, as A B and A C 708 SHIPS' TRACKS AND CHRONOMETERS. line, the othetb dotted lines, or when a chart b much covered with tracks, it is useful to use differently coloured lines. It is sometimes satisfdctory to join the dead reckoning places and the true places by anvws, and then rub out the whole of the tracks ; so uiat all which is essential, as far as currents are concerned, is contained ; while all that is not, and which might tend to confuse, is removed. When one or more days elapse without an observation, the dead reckoning ti ick may be carried on till an observation be obtained ; and then the dead reckv ling ph j and the true place at that instant being noted, a knowledge of the strength ai.l direc- tion of the current during the interval 's at one afforded. ^E \S8. IV.— BRIEF MODE OF EXPRESSING THE POINTS OF The Spanish navigatora, in describing courses, &c., com- monly made use of the expression, " Mhombs of the first, second, third, and fourth quadrant ;" or winds of the same. The first quadrant, in this expression, is that contained between North and Saat; the second, from JSast to South ; the third, from South to West ; and tLe fourth, from West vjr to North. ^ The respective quadrants may be represented algebrai- cally by the letters A, B, C, D, as in tne annexed figure ; and, in keeping a journal, the points of the compass, or courses and bearings, may be expressed briefly, by adopt- S ing these letters as the representatives of the four quadrants : thus N.W. by W. I W., or five points and three-quarters from the North toward the West, will be con- cisely expressed by D 6| ; N.E. will be A 4 ; S.E. by E., B 6 ; ond S.W. by S., C 3 j &c. So, likewise, by reckoning in degrees of the quadrant, N. 50" E. will be A 50° ; and in allowing for magnetic variation, say 24° W. ; this added will be A 74^, the com- pass bearing, &c. Should a true bearing be N. 76° E., adding 24°, the variation, will give 100°: deduct 90°, and this gives E. 10° S., or S. 80° E., or B 86°, the bearing by copipass. But that the figures for points may never be mistaken for degrees, it may, perhaps, be 1)081 to express the latter in the usual manner, as N. 50° E. VARIATION OF THE COMPASS BY PROJECTION. The readiest way of understanding this subject is to project every azimuth and am- plitude when it is taken. If this be done pro])erly, no confusion will remain, after a few observations. An example will best illustrate this. Say,— latitude 0° 38' N. ; declination, 21° 32' N. ; magnetic azimuth, E. 81° 20' N. ; true azimuth, E. 68° 24' N. In the first place, assume a point '*, which call the observer's eye; and another O, which call the sun : join these two, and from the eye, as the angular point, lay off the magnetic azimuth = 81° 20 ; then, from tne.same line, <^ and O, and from the eye '», lay off the true azimuth 68° 24', the d'fference of these two angles is the variation, 12° 66'. ' 1 — - — - — The difference, B, thus shows the error in dead-reckoning, which may be the effect of current. From B, the ship's true place on the second day, the ship's true place on the fourth dav may have changed to D ; whilo K ropresentfl her place by dead reckoning on the third, and F on the fourth day, &c. — Editok. , Concei of its hij quent cla Europe, t the knov Chinese ■v missionai' which pt same autb antiguiiy ^ It has 1 discovery But it 18 Columbus on magne doubted b served by < Magneti electricity become evi be heresta' duction of i By the pro produce ele By the elec netic needle ism. From an effect, to of electricit South, pole There is c in practice, ; duce a state that is with] in that of ai meridian an( tained in its most marked this cause, w caused enom scientific det expressly tre Terrestrial dip, and the volved in son been framed needle. Am( principle are Sabine, Capti From their la of magnetic j in some measi Now the m magnetic curi flfxions of tb Mym'i0 ( 709 ) s useful jlaces by entiaU as ch might ing tt ick ing pl^ -} ludttirec- \S8. . by W. I will be con- by S.,C 3; A 60° ; and i'', the com- iation, will [bearing by ly, perhaps, Ithandani- tie effect of fourth dav the tliiru, ■ if; v.— ON MAGNETISM AND THE COMPASS. Concerning the hiatonr of the magnetic needle, we have many and vague notices of its high antiquity. It is mentioned by Homer and Aristotle and by many subse- quent classical writers ; the first account we have of this is, that it was known, in Europe, at the time of the crusades, in about a.d. 1150, and it is very probable that the knowledge was derived from the Arabians, during those expeditions. But the Chinese were acquainted with it many years before this. We are told by the Jesuit missionai-y, Du Ualde, that the Chinese Empeiror, Hoang-ti, possessed an instrument which pointed to the South, so - — H- as the year 2,634 B.C., or 4,479 years ago; the same author gives subsequent nC. ^ ;. ^^ the compass in China, proving its very great antiguuy among that people. It has usually been considered %iw (ky.amhMa, in his voyage from Portugal, on the discovery of America, first observed the variation of the needle from the true North, But it IS not improbable that the variation was discovered nearly 200 year~ before Columbus made this change kno^yn, as it is mentioned in one of the earliest tfeatisog on magnetism by Peter Adsiger, in 1269: the authenticity of this, however, 11 doubted by some. The wonderful property of the dip of the needle was first ob- served by our countryman Robert Norman, a maker of compasses, in 1676. Magnetism is a principle which is evidently allied to, if 'it is not identical with,- electricity and galvanism. For, in the causing any or either of these principles to become evident to our senses, we produce, at the same time, the others ; and it may be here stated, that five apparently dissimilar effects are inevitably caused in the pro- duction of either : these are — light, heat, chemical action, electricity, and magnetism. By the production of liyht we cause heat and chemical affinity, and these vdll also produce electricity, and will cause the magnetic needle to swerve from the meridian. By the electric fluid we produce light, heat, and the other phenomena ; and the mag- netic needle is a measurer, by its deflections, of the most minute portions of galvan- ism. From the magnet, a spark can be produced, absolutely similar, in apjpearance nn effect, to that of electricity and galvanism. There is i' positive and negative state of electricity and galvanism ; and there is a positive aud negative, or North and South, pole to the magnet, and these attract or repel each other. There is one phenomenon connected with these sciences of very great importance in practice, and that is, that of induction ; a substance electrified positively will in- duce a state of negative electricity, or will cause a body to be negatively electrified, that is within its influence ; the North pole of a magnet will induce an opposite pole in that of another piece of iron, in certain positions with respect to the magnetic meridian and itself. Thus, tiie iron employed in the construction of a ship, or con- tained in its cargo, may all become, by induction, temporary magnets, and have a most marked and important effect upon the compass by which it is steered ; and it is this cause, which is too frequently ovi ooked— that of the local deviation — which has caused enormous errors in reckoning, aud consequently the loss of many vessels. As scientific details is out of our province, we must refer the reader to those works more expressly treating on the subject. ';'.'. " , Terrestrial Magnetism.— The magnetism of the earth, by which the direction, the dip, and the intensity of the force of the magnetic needle is controlled, is still in- volved in some obscurity, and no perfectly satxsfactory system or theoiy has hitherto been firamed to account for the multifarious changes and phenomena of the compass needle. Among the m ire modem inquirers into the source of this most wonderful principle are Prbfessci Hansteen, Mr. Bain, Mr. Bariow, Mr. Christie, Sir Edward Sabine, Captain Johnston, Mr. Archibald Smith, Mr. Evans, 11.N., and many others. From their labours we have arrived at a tolerably correct notion of the general effects of magnetic phenomena ; and from these the laws by which they are governed have, in some measure, been deduced. that IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 ^^ ta ■" 1i£ 12.0 I.I U lU §M i>4 11.6 ^ 4" > f> <^ ^^ "% Hiotografiric Sciences Corporation u%^r^ 33 WIST MAIN STRUT WMSTIR.N.Y. MSIO (71*)l73-4»09 710 ON MAGNETISM AND THE COMPASS. source, or whether the earth ia in a positive and permanently magiictio state, does not aflfeot the niesent question. From certain changes in the ooaipas% perhans it might be infer ea, that the magnetism is induced by temperature (heat) fii'om the sun } or that tho feirugtnous pdrtions, whioh enter so largely into the compoeitioa of the earUi, have received an inductive magnetism from the same source. In 1683 Dr. Edmund Halley published a theory of maenetuim, in which occurs the following idea* :— that the earth's magnetiam was caused hjfburmkt or point* cf attraetioH, two of them near each pole of the equator ; and that, in those puts of the world which Ue nearly adjacent to any one of those magnetic poles, the needle is ffoverned thereby, the nearest pole being always predominant over that more remote. This view of ^e earth's magnetism ha8l)cen supi>orted by the i^eHults of the labours of Professor Hansteen, one of tho chief promoters of the science. Fzom his most valuable work {Magnetismua der Erde, Cliristianitt, 1817), his views may be learned. Havin? collected all the observations of valuo that had been made on the variation of the needle, he proveS that lliere were^ur puintt ot convergence among the lines of variation ; yiz., a weaker and a stronger point, in the vicinity of each pole of the fflobe. This, combined with the result of Sir D. Brewster's inquiries, will certainly lead to the view of the connexion between tho heat of the earth and its magnetism. Professor Hansteen considers tliat the strongest poles, N.S., Uo almost diunetricallr opposite to each other, and the same is true of the weaker poles n.«. These four poles 1^ found to have a regular motion obliquely ; tho two nortliem ones N.n., flrom west to East, and the two southern ones o.». from East to West. The following he found to be their periods of revolution, and their positions in 1830 :~ Pole N. 69" 30' N. Pole B. 68° 40' 8. Pole «. 85'' 6' N. Pole «. 78" 29' S. Time of revolution round Lon. tram Greenwich, each pole of the earth. 87' 19' W. 1,740 years. 131' 47' E. 4,609 — 141' 17' E. 860 — 137'4«'W. 1,304 — From calculations based upon subsequent observations he slightly varied these jmsitions and periods { but he nas shown, verv clearly, that the changes in the varia- tion and dip of the needle, iu both hemispheres, may be well explained by their motion. These four magnetic j^les, or points on the earth's surface, over which the dippinff* needle would stand vertical, are separated by a magnetic equator, whioh is not coinci- dent with the eailhs's equator, but is ap. irregular circle, which crosses it in three Kints, according to M. Dupeney, or in fiour points, according to M. Biot and Pro- Mor Hansteen ( on this circle, of course, the dipping-needle stands horisontal. Respecting the North Atlantic Ocean, we may here state, that the magnetic crosses the terrestrial equator in about long. 20* E. (in the Bight of Biafra), and proceeds westerly across tne Atlantic, to the coast of Brasil, which it touches in lat. 16' S. The line of equal dip, at 70°, runs from the Bristol Channel, curving S.W. and W., to about Charleston. U.S. i between these lines, the lines of equal dip (or laoclinai lines) form regular divisions. The mariner's compass, as generally used, exhibits the direction of the magnetic meridian only t but, in treating of the magnetic needle, three points are to be in- quired into : these are, the variation, or declination i the dip, <»> tnfilination ; and the tntctuity of the manietio force t and to the elucidation of these the philosophers in all quarters of the globe are at present . Jgagcd. Tht Declination, or Variation. — With this branch of the subject nvery sailor ir per> foctly fluniliar, and any comment on its actual state is thereforo nncessary. But thii variation is not constant. There are several elements of ehange in this part <^ the magnstio force, for it undergoes secular, annual, mensual, diurnal, and also irregular changes. The eeeular changes is a progressive alteration, observed in the dinotiot the magnetic needle daring a series of years. Thus, in 1A76, Robert Norman fouuu ON MAONRTISM AND THB COMPASS. m Um eomMM at London to point 11* 10' Boat of North i in 1606, it pointed true North ; it was on the increase to 1819, when it was 24° 41' Wett of North ; and since then it has been retrograding, and in December, 1860, it was 21« 11' 30". The tnttuuttl ohanee is according to the season of the year. It was first notioed bj. Mr. Canton, about the year 1706. It amounted, in January, to T 8" { in Mandit 11' 17* I in June, 18' 2r ; in September, 11' 43* i and in December, 6' 58". Theoe are the ^nmal changes, which vary in amount in different parts o4 the year. The diurnal change is thus ffiven from the recent obserrations of Professor Lloyd : ^M The mean daily curve of the changes of declination, for the entire year, exhibits a smal! easterly movement of the Noi-m end of the magnet during the morning houn, which reaches its maximum about ?*■ a.m. After that hour the North end moves rapidly westward, and it reaches its extreme westerly position at !■■ 10' p.m. It then returns to the eastward, but less rapidly, the easterly deviation becoming a maximum about 10» p.m. ; the mean daily range equals 0-3'." These small daily and monthly changes are unimportant in a seaman's practice. Th» irreguiar chan^, or magnetic storms, as they have been termed, occur with- out any previous notice, and are of very great extent ; some of them have been traced almost throughout the globe. At times this deviation amounts to V. As the ascertained variation of the compass in various parts of the Atlantic are attached to Tables of Positions in the former part of tUs work, and are also given on the chart facing page 373. The Dip, or Inclination. — ^The dip of the needle, as we have already had oocasion to observe, is the and^le which a well-balanced needle forms with the horison, after it is rendered mafrnetic, and when it has the power of free motion in Hu plane of tha magnetic meridian. As before stated, this angle varies in diffeient parts of the globe, being at lero on the magnetic equator, and 90^ on the magnetic poles. The dip, like the vwiation, undergoes a continual change, increasing in some parts of the world and dinmdshing in others. Thus, at Paris, in 1761, it was 70° ; in 1829, only 67° 41'. At London, in 1076, it was 71° 00' ; in 1837, it was 69° 20' { in 1861, it is 68° 20'. The dip is a very important element in magnetic consideration, and is too much overlooked by the sailor. The instruments for its measurement, however, are expensive and deli- cate, and require great nicety in their management ; for these reasonH, it is _ compara- tively neglected ; but as it is in some degree a measurement of the intensity of the magnetic force, and also ^atly modifies the directive powei of the compass, it im the influenoe of iron and not corrected by magnets, and should be swung at the beginning and end of every voyage of any length, and the deviation of the ancorrected and corrected Compasses (if any) observed. No man is competent to command an iron ship who is not competent to make these observations."* The more refined calculations which can be entered into for determining the relation between a ship and her compass are gpiven in a pamphlet by Archibald Smith, Esq. " Instructions for the computation of a Table of the Deviations of a Ship's Compass,^' 1848, as a supplement to tne '* Practical Rules for ascertaining the Deviations, &o.," 1864. Dr. Score$by gives the following summary of leading- deductions on the Character and Distribution and liability to change of the Magnetism of Iron Ships :— (1.) Aa to the tourcM asB. 6. That a^^iSted compasses aire spedally liable to ohsage in the direction of over- bon^nsatiolit and may dangerously mislead lihe navigator. 6. That a atroke of the sea may produce a sudden change in the compass. 7. That a rtroke of lightning may ohange a ship's magnetism and compass deviation. 8. That a Aot Mm BhilAtigpartiaUy on an iron ship 01' ^'ht change her magnetism. 9. That permanrat magnets applied for the acyustment of compass deviations must, with rare exceptions, tend to aggravate the error in ships going far into another heniiq;>here. 10. That a compass aloft affords an easy, practical, and if duly elevated and pre- pared for, an eflbctual remedy for the sh^M disturbing influence.* • '< Journal of • Voyage fcr Magnetioal Researoh," 1869, pp. 71, 72 t " The Compaw in iron Ships, ftc," by Rev. W. Scoiesby, D.D., pp. 67, «8. iiBA94. m The experiMMw.gwaod by tlw w. eo to speak, ahook out the uieq,i|aUtifla ip her pompaseea, which wei^ pbeervell bejiare hfc Baihn«r, to such an extent t&it the standanl compass, which had originally a dei;iatfopi, of 20^io t(X9 port side when the shin's head was north, had this deviation reduqed to 3° 22' on her return to Liverpool { v«liile the steerinR compass, which (nrigitaally had been rather over corrected, having aa error of l" 43 returned with it 22^ ftf'i whS# tito eompaaion ooapsat hturiac ta error itf V 49' fetuzned wjth it* t?" atf. l%is clmnge was one which had evicbntly taken place in the retentive magnelwni of ^b% ship. This change, shows the con^lete Culnres in such a voyage hjjbced magnets. Bction of over- In 1843 when the Gompass Depoitoient of tite AdmlraMy waa ettsbHslted; the Bcience and the instruments were in an equally bad' condftioh:. The laboura of Oapt: E. J. Johnson, ILN., F.B.S., however, soon put a new fiuse on the matter, and mmw was dotM in hi» tioM towards devidoj^g the applioatiott of the iMnnaiplea enunciated. But the vast increase of iron shipping nas caused gnreater requirements, aft has hum stated, and the sailor ia very Uixgely indebted to Mv. Fved. J< Evavs, B.N., $he present supenntendant^ who has pcodiiced an excellent series of variation o]^arta {ihitm vtjfih our diagjram on p. 373, has been taken) ; and also has dev^ed mnch t^le^^ to the investj^tion c^ toe piobl^ of the ma^etism in iron shijM. From his Bepor^ to the Hydrographer on the Deviation in the Iron Shijgaqf the V^^ Navyi^ A^rif 18^ 1,860, we ^txtraot the following : — On mna8S above the level l^e topsiaes and adjacent deck beams, is one of the chief conditions for reducing thu source of error. With head built North, on heeling, the north end of compass needle will be attracted to the weather or nearest side from its south polarity. „ N.E., M ' o the same. „ East, „ „ the same. ^, 8.E., „ the north end of needle will have but little error from the balanced conditions of north and south polarity of topsides. „ South, „ the north end of needle will be repeUed to the lee side by the north polarity of nearest or weather topside. n S.W., „ tho north end of needle will have but little error, as at S.E. „ " West, „ the north "end of needle will be attracted to the. weather or nearest side. N.W., ,, ». the same. 718 ON MAQNETISM AND THE COMPASS) ^ TliMB lawf) •nfy held ^ood a» lung m the timaiiie* in the inunediate vi^ii^ of tha coupaaB retain their dominant polarity due to meir original direction of Inuldr m Great Britain : if in south magnetic latitudes a change of polarity takes place, the condi- tions ti healmg oorrespood to such change. The>majSmam ^turbance on heeling in all these resaels is when their heads are ^by ^isturhed.opmpass) ma^metio North or South, and this disturbance Tanishes when she head iis Bast or West. This law of disturbance may be thus explained : when tbii TesseFs head is north or south on an even keel (by disturbed compass), the needb lies parallel to the topeides by their combined action, which neutrauzes each other i on beduig, tibe nearest topsMe exercises it* then dominant polarity at si^t angles to the dueekioD of the needle, a^ hence the maximum error. With the ship's hcid east or west, whether on an even keel or heeling, either pole of the compass-needle pouti directly to the topsides, and is consequently unaffected except in a Tertical plane. As the amount of disturbance on heelihff varies under the vatious conditions of direction of build, height of compass, and breadth of ship or distance of topsides, addbd to title prevailing permanent or inductive magnetic condition of the la,tter and the deck beams, eadi dup must have an individual character, to be determined only bj experiment or observation at sea. lUere are, however, strong anwinds for infer- ring wot by aindicious position of the compass, so as to ensure smaU errors while on an even keel, the errors arising firam the ship's heel will be so proportionally reduced as not practically to aflGect the navigation of the ship in the hands of a prudent seaman.^ VI.— LIGHTNING BODS AND CONDUCTORS. "To protect a ship effectually from dariige bv lightning, it is essential that the conductor be as continuous and as direct as possible, ttom the highest jwint to the sea ; that it bo permanently fixed in the masts, uiroughout their whole extent, so as to ad- mit of the motion of one portion of the mast upon another ; and that, in case of the removal of any part of the mast, tojgether with the conductor attached to it, either firom accident or design, the remaining poxtioa should still be perfect, and eaual to the transmission of an electrical discharge into the sea. To rolfil these oonoitioM, pieces of sheet copper, from one-sixteenu to one-eighth of an inch thick, vaiying firom -1| to 6 inches in breadth,, and bein^ about two fbet long, according to the size of the masts, are inserted into the masts in two laminte, one over the other, the butts or joints of the one being covered by the central portions of the other. The lamintD are riveted together at the butts, so as to form a long, elastic, and continuous line. The whole conductor ij» inserted under the edges of a neat groove, ploughed toncdtudinally in the aft side of the diflBnrent masts, and secured in its position by wrought copper nails, so as to present a &ir surfitce. This metallic line then passes downward ttom the copper spindle at the mast-head, along the aft sides of the royal mast and top- gallant mast of large vessels, and is connected in its course with the copper about the sheave holes. A copper Uning in the aft side of the cap, through which the topmast I'iides, now takes up tne eonnection, and continues it over the c«^ to the aft side of the topmast, and so on, as before, to the step of the mast ; here it meets a thick wide copper lining, tamed round the cap, undiw the heel of the mast, and resting on a similar layer of oopper, which is fixed to the keelson ; this last is connected with some of the keelson bolts, and with three perpendicular bolts of copper, of 2 inches cUameter, which are driven into the main keel upon three transverse or horizontal bolts, brought into immediate contact with the copper expanded over the bottom. Tlie laminee of copper are turned over the respective inast>heads, and are secured * " Reduction and Pisouasion of the Deviations of the Compass;" by Fred. J. Evaiu, Esq., B.N. PhiloB. Trans. 1860, part ii., pp. 334— M8. MARINE THERMOMETER. 719 p&iityof tki uilduiOreat te, the condi- ieirlie«dB«re uiiBhai when id: wheath^ to neiBdIeUM ch other I on {ht anglef to ,ip*« hcid eaii •needle pobti HEtl plane. oonditieM of e of topsides, the latter and termined only iinds for infer- rron while on mally reduced of a ^ ^ iknat wi indi oetmoite dows wnward from nast and top- sper about the ih the topmast Se aft side of _ a thick wide 4 restinff on a •nnected with , of 2 inches or horizontal tiie bottom. [d are secured J. Evans, Vn.— MARINE THERMOMETER. Captain tnometen n. d Livingston says : — '< In my fhermometiic experiments I had several ther- broken, and I have heard objections made i» the experiments, that, in the manner they were made, the thermometer was not immersed for enough to enter into water sufficiently uninfluenced by the heat of the solar rays ; but it will be seen, by compuing the oay and night observations, that this is a fuule objection. However, to avoid it, to secure my thermometers finm being broken, and to enable me to have a column of water round the lliermometer, sufficient to retain its original temperature till such time as the degree indicated by the thermometer scale could be read aS, keeping at the same time the bulb of the • thermometer immersed in the water, I prevailed on an ingenious mechanic to to attempt the structure of such a case ns 1 wanted, in which he has most happily succeeded." The person here aUaded to is Mr. Robcii Jamieson, of Glasgow, who was honoured with the large silver medal of the fioeiety for the Enoomragement of Arts. Debcbiption.— The first figure, heretb annexed, represents the case, a tube of copper, whicn encloses a thermometer : the second figure represents a thermometer, so enclosed. The lenjgih of the whole tube, including the lid, is about, 18 inches, and its octenial diaind»r 2 inches. The Ud, which has a dieck to fit the tube, is about 2 inches deep, and has a conical or puppet valve in it, wtdeh rises upward. At the lower end 'of pIatm vapour to water it softens in appearance, and becomes a Nindtus, 4. The Cumulus, or Stack Cloud, which increases from below in den^e convex and conical heaps, and is the grand prognostic and accompaniinfnt of fair weather. The Cirrus is often seen after acontintuEince of fine light weather, as a fine whitish line of cloud, stretched across the sky at a great height, the ends seeming lost in the horizon. This is often the first indication of a change to wet weather : to this line of Cirrus others are added laterally, and at times clou£ of the same sort seem to pro- 1 ceed from the sides of the line, and are sent off in an oblique or transverse direction, { so that the whole nuiy have the appearance of net-work. At other times the lines of Cirrus become denser, descend lower in the atmosphere, and by uniting or conjoining with others below produce rain. The Une alluoed to above is called the Linear Cirrus, and the transverse lines produce the Setieulated or | Curl Cloud. The Comoid,OT Hairy Cirrus, commonly called Mare's Tail, is the proper Cirrus; it resembles, in appearance, a long look of white hair, or a bunch of wool pulled ont I into fine pointed ends. The appearance of Cirrus in the atmosphere often indicates wind and rain ; and when the fine tails have a constant direction toward any one point of the compass, it has been frequently obsei*ved that the gale has li^ituig up from that quarter to which they previously pointed. TheCirrc the stormy proximity. I npall detacl ment. When th I in lummer ; In the aumn beautiAil ap comnloa sul I modification , The arro ili^htly inc] I their exterio with a ainkii I mow. The Cirro- CLASSIFICATION Of CLOUDS, ETC. 721 Tlie Stratus comprehends foga and all fliose ereepu^miBts whioh.ui auminer evenings fill the Tallevs, but diaapftear in the mornings. The best time for observing its formation is on a fine evening, after a hot summer's day } we shall then observe that, as the Cumuli of the day deorease, a white mist forms near the ground ; this oload, as the Cumuli evajiorate, by degree arrives at its density, la autumn it re- mains lon^r in the morning. In winter it often puts on a still denser appearance, and renuins during the day^ and even for many days successively. i Hie Nimbus always precedes a ISUl of snow, raiin, or hail; and has' received its name from a notion of the ancients, who distinguished between the It^ber, or shower, and the Nimbus, or cloud, from which the rain comes. The Cumulus (plurial, OtmuWjf. Hie progressive formation of the Cumulus is seen in fine settled weather. If we uieit observe the sky soon after sunrise, we shall see small clouds here and there in the atmosphere, which appear to be the result of small gatherings, or concentrated parts of the evening mist, which, ririne in the morning, ^w into small masses of cloud, and the atmosphere becomes clear. As the sun rises, these clouds become larger, bv adjacent ones coalescing, and at length a large cloud is formed, assuuiing a cumutated irregular hemispherical shape ; this usually subsides in the evening as it formed in the morning, breaking into statXL masses, then fra^ents, and evaporating, when it is succieded by the Stratus, to the formation of which it may have contributed. In fine weather these clouds form soon after sun- rise, increase during the day, and subside witb more regularity, and have a more Jiemispherical form, than in changeable weathei. When well-formed Cumuli prevail for three or four days, the weather is settled. These Cumuli reflect a strong dlvery light when opposed to the sun, like Alpine mountains covered with snow. The Secondary distinction of Clouds partakes, in a mixed degree, of the preceding distinctions} hence we have uie Cirro-cumulus, the Cirro-stratus, and the Cumuh' stratus. The Cirro-cumulus (cirrus and cumulus) is an assemblage of nubecula, or small roundish clouds, either detached fW>m,or in contact with, each other, and frequentiy reaching, to appearance, into the azure sky, commonly attended by an increased tem- perature, and found to accord with a rising barometer. The most striking feature is observed in summer, before or about the time of thunder-storms. The component nubeculee are then very dense, round in form, and in closer apposition than usual. This kind of cloud is so commonly a forerunner of storms, that it has been assumed by some as a tempestuous prognostic. In rainy and variable weather another variety of this cloud appears, contrasted very strikingly with that above mentioned, being of a light fleecy texture, without any regular form in its nubeoulse. Sometimes the latter are so small as scarcely to be discernible, but the sky seems speckled with in- niimerable little white transparent spots. The Cirro-cumulus of fair summer weather is of a medium nature, not so dense as I the stormy variety, nor so light as the variable one. Its nubeculse vary in size and proximity. In fine dry weather, with light gales of North and easterly winds, I nnall detachmentB rapidly form and subside again, g^nemlly in an horizontal arrange- ment. When the Grro-cumulus prevails, we may anticipate an increase t>f temperature I in summer ; and in winter the breaking up of a frost, or warmer and wet weather. la. the summer time, extensive beds of this cloud, viewed by moonlight, have a very I beautifiil appearance, which has been compared to a flock of sheep at rest. The Cirro*. comnlns subsides either slowly, as if by evaporation, or changes into some otbeif I modification. The Cirro-stratus (cirrus and stratus) or Wane Cloud, is composed of horizontal or I dightly inclined masses of small clonds, attenuated toward a part or the whole of their exterior, bent downward or undulated, separate or in groups, and generally with a sinking barometer, indicating a decrease in temperature, with wind and rain otr mow. * . The Cirro-stratus is characterized by great horizontal extent iii proportion to ver- 4 T 722 CLASSIFICATION OF THE CLOUDS. tioal bjTMd^ ; w that whien any other c^oud heglns to asaume thV't form, it generally ends in CmpiBi^tiis. Tlie Cirrns more oommonly beoometi a Cirro-stratus than any other olondj u^ C^rrp-PlvmuIuQ ne^t; and th^n the Cumi^lus. T^e Cirro-stratCB) once fonned, somenhief resumes 'the modification from which it' opginated, hut more ii:- ^ue^itly it grj^diifilly eT^porates or conjoins with some otheir modification. It seldom remains lonsr' iu ope form, but seems to oe constantly declining, ^nd hence the term of Wane Oioua. 'It is spmetiqijBs ooipposed of wavy bars qr sti-eaks, connected in the centre and (^nftised, out tbe streaks more defined at the edg^ : this is common in Taiiable veather in snmmien The Mackerel Shy, as it is tenned, is a variety of this ; •nothar vapety oonsista of ana long and plain stiteak, thick in the middle, and wasting away at its edges ; and a third, consisting of small rows of little clouds, curved in a peculiar manner, ^n^ a sup indication of stormy we^thec : this is more or less regu- larly formed,' and nie in^olar formation is often produced when a large Cumulus passes under a Idiig line of Cirrc-stri^tus, and is a|so a sign of stormy weather. The last variety of Cirro-stratus is a large shallow veil of cloud, which extensivelv overspreads the sky, pt^icidarly in the evening and during the night, and'througn which the sun and moon appear dimly. It is in this cloud that those neculifur rei^-ac- tions of light, of the sun and moon, called haloes, mock tuna, &c. usually appear, and which is a tolerably certain prognostic of rain or snow. I'here are minor varieties, which m^y frequently be observed. The Cirro-stratus usually teimioates in forming an intimate union with some other cloud, to produce rain ) but, at times, it evaporates or changcH into some other modi- fication. The CumulQ-ttratue designates the Cirro-stratus blended with the Cumulus, and either eppeai'ing intermixed with the heaps of the latter, or super-addiug a wide structm'e to its base. The Cumulo-stratus is most frequent during a mean or change- able state of the barometer, when the wind blows from the >\ est, with occasioual deviations ftom the North and South. This cloud may be always regarded as a preliminai'y to the production of rain ; and it frequeintly forms in the foUowing manner: — the Cumulus, which, in common, passes along in the current of the wind, seems retai-dcd in its progress, increases its density, spreads out laterally, and at length overhanss the base, in dark and irregular protnberaaoes. The change to the Cumulo-stratus ouen taken place at once in aU the Cumuli which are near to each other ; and their bases uniting, the superstructuie rises up with mountain-like or rocky summits. The change from Cumulus to Cumulo- stratus is often preceded by Cirro-stratus. Cumulo-strata vary in appearance; those in which hail showers and thunde^ storms form look extremely black before the change to rain, and have a menacing aspect, as they are seen coming slowly up with the wind. The Cumulo-Htratus somu- times evaporates or changes again into cumulus ; but, in general, it ends in the Nim- bus and fall of rain or snow : sometimes only one part forms a Nimbus, the other remaining a Cumulo-stratus. ^ - i Oenebal Bbm ark on the .\imbue. — Any of the modiflcationB above described may increase so much as to obeonre the sky, without ending in rain \ before which the peculiar oharaoteristio of th« rain-cloud may always be dirtinguished. In order to gtx a dear idea of its formation, you may observe a distant shower in profile, from iU formation to its foil in rain. You may then observe the Cumulus first arrested, then the Cirro-stratus or Cirrus mav appear to alight on its top; the change to Cumulo- stratus then goes on rapidly, ana this cloud, increasing in density, assumes that black and threatening appearance known as an indication of rain : presently this blacknc»!) is changed to a gray obscuritv, and this is the criterion of the actual formation of water, which now begins to roll, and constitutes the cloud a NinUme, while a Cirri- form crown of fibres extends tmm the upper part of the clouds, and small Cumuli riitvr into th« lowef part. After the ihower has spent itself, the cloud resumes iU CLASSIFICATION OF TrfE CLOt/DiS. Hi titledf Gttmnlo-striatus, and thentie probablr olidngefl inib a difTet^t n&odifloatbm ; and if €ttittaliHi defined the edges of the clouds are, the more wind they foreteU. A little attention to these simple obseirations, so fiimiliar to ^rsons who have been some time at se^, may save young officers unnecessary anxiety in one case, and prom^ them to shorten sail at a proper time in the other." — (" Voyage of the Beagle, yol. li. p. 49.) " Captain Beuben Bunker, fm old and experienced seaman of Nantucket, has related that he has often, and sometimes for several days together, rode out a heavy Sle at sea by fiirling all his sails, pointing his Tarda forward, and veering out from e boMTs a s&earo ct^le, with a small anchor and a ^ar lashed to it : thus ridin|[, as at anchor, head to wind. He considered this mode much safer than scudding or lymg- to ; and in this situation, he faid, his yeesel seldom shipped any water. " Mr. Owen, formerly master-attendant at Jamaica, recommended to schooners and other small vessds, when running befine the wind in a gale, with a heavy sea follow- ing, to tow a hawser frnm the $bem ; as he had found, from experience, tliat it divided the waves, and prevented their breaking on board." — laetU. Bvana. " Bevision of Geographic Terms," p. 134. M t:rr INDEX. uit it divided ' Beviaion of Abaco, 77 Abtfeoum Inlet, 632 I Adour River, 482 I Aferni, Has, 498 Africa, Coast of, 487 , Tides of, 256 African, or Guinea (7urr«»<, 283-288; (151) JJeflned; (152) Extent; (153) (154) Examples jf'rom Maury ; (155) Ve- locity and Direction; (156)Temperataie; (157) Directions off .Guinea Coast ; (158) Near Cape Mount, &c. (159) Sail- ing Directions by Mr. Finlaison ; (160) Obser- vations by.M^jor Ren- nell; (160) Bottle Ex- periments. Kemarks on the African Current, 407 between Cape Spartel and C. Boiador, 502 ■ off C.Verde,516 ■ off the Senegal, 514 lAitkens Rook (P), 663 Aix Isle, 480 lAgglestone Rock, 457 Agaluh Cape, 499 Albreda, 521 lAlcatraB Islet, 523 Ulderton Shoal, 648 lAUegranKa Isle, 595 lAlderson Rock, 670 Ulmadia Point, 516 lAlmadronia Village, 489 Alta Vek, 87 lAgadier, 498 lAmbleteuse Road, 476 America Rook (P), 675 I Amherst Port, 648 lAmplimont Rook, 670 I Amsterdam jHNdtion of, 1 24 lAnegada, 87 Ancoras Islets, 525 Anfttrite Shoal (P), 682 Angel Hillocks, 511 [Angle Bay, 460 I Angra de Cintra, 506 Angra de Teroeira, 553, 568 Anna Rock (P), 682 Anne, Cape, 647 Anticosti, 53, 59 Antioohe Rooks, 480. Anti-trades, or Pas- sage Winds, 208 — 214 (64) Definition; (65)' Estimates; (66) Predo- minance; (67) Liverpool Observations; (68) Mo- tion, Seasons and Di- rections; (69) (70) In- terferences; (71) (72) Winds in the Englidi Channel; (73) Winds in the open ocean ; (74) Westerly predominance; (75) Winds in North America. Antonio Cape, 82 Arctic or Labrador Current, 344 — 352 : (262) Definition; (263) Extent; (264) Ai-ound C. Farewell ; (265) Up Davis Strait, &c. ; (266) down the Coast or La- brador; (267) Drifting ice; (268) Remarks by Lieut. J. S. Park ; (260) Arguments by Mr. Red- field; (270) Velocity; (271) Past Newfound- land; (272) Into Gulf of St. Lawrence ; (273) Around Sable Island; (274) Along the Coast of the United States; (275)Intermingling cold veins ard cold wall. Areas Isle, 527 Arethnsa Reef, 539 Arguin Bank, 510 Artificial Uorison, 706 Ariilla, 489, 502 Aafec, or Saffi, 495 Ashton Rook (P^, 683 Asaatoague Lignt, 654 Atalaya Point, 587 AtiU Itoek (?), 678 Atlantic Ocean limits, 1 Aves I., 91 ' Aylen, or Porgas Bk., 688 Azamor, 494 Azores, The, 553 Position, 41 Baccaro Point, 646 Bagroo River, 349 Bahamas, Tides, 258 Bald Head, 657 Baleine Point, 481 Ballyoottin Bay, 471 Ballynakilla, 476 Baltimore, 474 Bananas, 548 Banohe Vai», 665 Banquereau, 643 BantiryBav, 475 Barbados, 91 Barbas, Cape, 508 Barel Point, 531 Barfieur, Cape, 476 Barencthy's Rock, 675 Bamogat, Inlet of, 651 Barnstaple Bay, 647 Bashaw, or Turtle Is., 540 Basque Roads, 480 Basse Vieille, 479 Bathurst, 521 Baxo Nuevo, 84 Baxo de Gar«as (P), 688 Bay of Biscay, 478 Bayadere Shoal, 510, 525 Bayoune, 482 Beachy Head, 456 Bearhaven Harbour, 475 Beaufort Harbow, 657 Beaufort Bank, 672 Beasley Shoal (P), 671 Bee de Ch6vre, 479 Bee du Ras, 477 Bcginnis, 476 BeUe De, 480 Bermqja Shoal, 602 Bermudas, or Somers Is., . 74, 629 Bermudas, Winds at, 207 Benin, 524 Bessassema, 531 Betsy's Rook (P), 689 Biarits, or Bianiti, 483 Bjooga islands, 524 Bilbao Harbour, 483 726 INDEX. Bird Isle, 618 Biivideaux, 480 Biscay, Bay of, 478 Bishop Lignthouse, 403 Bissao, 528 Bissao Cliannel, 035 Bissagos, 524 Black Fish Banks, 654 Blaokfltoae, 'fhe, 458 Black Bnck, 474 Blaesdale Reef (P), 688 Blanco, Cape, 508' , North, C, 495 Block Islaad, 650 Bloody Flax} Beuedr for, 571 Blue Cut, 603 Bocayna, Canal de, 595 Boaz Mand, 624 Boiador Cape, 504, 5 Boiler Channel, 622 Bolola Channel, 520 Bom FeKz Shoal (?) 686 Bonaviata. 606 Bonetta Shoal (?), 607, 686 Bonn Islet, 527 Boolam, or Bnlama, 530 Boom Kittam River, 660 Boston, 70, 647 BoBsessame, 531 Botof Sand Hilk, 496 Bottles, Current, Me Cur- rents. Boulogne, 476 Bouvets BankJP), 686,687 Braithewaite Kay, 607 Branoo Isle, 616 Brava I., 614. Braye Roads, 478 Brasen Head, 586 HiU, 608 BrazU Rock (P), 645, 685 Brea, or Bray Head, 476 Bream Shonb, 623 Brcem Rock, 473 Brehat Isles, 478 Brest Harbour* 479 Breton Roek (P), 681 Breton Island, 043 Bristol Channel, 467 , Tides at, 263 Brighton, 456 Brmd Sound, 649 Brow Head, 475 Brown's Bunk, 674' Brussels, 24 Bufiurdo Roek, 480 Buuio, or S. Deserta, 583 ti..r - -- n— 1_~. KOA u II mum, «! MiwiMUMMt vara Bnllom Shore, 547 Bull's Bay, 658 Bulman Rock, 474 Bu Reoreb, Wady, 402 Bnsto Cape, 484 Bus, Land of, 675 CiiBEZos, The, 487 Cabras, 896 Cabras, or Goat's Ids., 569 Cacheo, 523 Cadiz, 32 Caesar Breakers (P), 687 Ctumadu Point, 574 jCaldeiras, The, 556 Calms and Winds, Canary Islands, 603 Calms of Cancer, 206 Cambridg& Observtttt^, 70 Camden, Fort, 47S Canary Islands, 592 Ganana, or Grand Canary, 596 Cancer, Calms of, 206 Candler's Rock (P), 680 Cansado, Porto, 501 Canso Banks, 643 Cantin Cape, 488 — 495 Cape Breton I., 57 Capellas Port, 561 Cape Verde, 516 Cape Verde Islands, 605 CMabane, 584 Carasohe Island, 525 Bank, 627 Cardinals, 480 Carino Bav, 485 Camsore Pmnt, 470 Carpenter Rook, 545 Cashe's Ledge, 647, 674 Casa Bianca, or Dar El Beida, 493 Caskets, Th(. 478 Castle Harbour, 624 — Island, 625, 649 Catharine Point, 022 i Caycoe, 78 Cayo Bank, 526 Isle, 626 Romano, 82 Cazamansa River, 523 Centurion Rock, 648 Chaderton Reef (P), 668 Chain Rook, 642 Channel Islands, 478 Chantereau's Shoal, 680 Chao I., 502 Chapelle Rook, 665 Cape Charles, 655 Charleston, 71, 659 Charles Fort, 473 Cape, 664 Charlotte town, 60 Chassiron Tour, 480 Chaucer Bank (?), 670 ChaussSe de Sem, 479, 480 Chavagkao Shoal, 477 Chebncto Head, 644 Cherbourg, 476 Chesapeake, The^ 665 Chilling Cape, 540 CMncoteagiie Shdal, 654 Christient^sBd, 88 CHRdNOMBTERs), Remarb on, 704 Chub Headfe, 622 Cintra Bay, 500 Cisargae Isle, 484 Glark%i Rook (P), 668 Clear Cane, 474 Cleveland Keef, 676 Clovelly, 467 Clowes Reef, 690 Coast Line, LoAgth of, 5, 6 Cohassot Rooks, 648 Colbart or Ridge, 465 Columbine Shoal (P), 681 Compasa, on the, 708 CompoOnee River, 536 Constante Reef, 677 Cooper's Island, 632 Coppetches River, 594 Cordouan Totm, 461 Cork Harbour, 472 Cape Cornwall, 464 Corral, or Curral, 686 Corteeiilo Island, 544 Coruiia, 484 Corvo, 678 Corvoeiro, Cape, 608 CoubrorPoint de la, 481 Courier Rock (P), 685 Couitmaoaheny Bay, 478 Crawford Island, 539 Cromwell's Fort, 476 Crookhaven, 474 Cross Haven, 470 Crow Head, 474 Crow's Nest, 641 Cuba, 81 Curriil, The, 586 CtTRRKNTB, 259' (127) General Remorkii (128) Bstbnation of; (129) Authorities t(130| Allowance for Into- reckoning I (131) Drift fitoe CwNOty I (m) Depth of Cunvots aua Spedflo C^^itT of Sea Water) (1^) Depth of the Opean} (im Tem- perature; (130} Defini- tions; (137) Bnomera- tion of Currento, see 1. Renmcll'sCurbbnt. 2. S.E. Dbift to Eu- rope and Africa. 3. African or Guinea Current. 4. Sargasso Sea. 5. Equatorial Current. 6. West India Currents. 7. Gulf Stream. 8. Arc- tic or Labrador Cur- rent, which see. Currents Obsebvations ON, by lii«ut. Jno. S. Park, R.N., 360; by Miyor Beonell, 364 ; Submarine Currents by Lieut. Wal«h, U.S.N., 365 ; by Capt. Irminger, 367 ; Kemarks hj Capt. MaDdepfSK>n,. 467 ; On the Easterly CuiTents in the North Parts of the Atlantic, 367 ; Re- marks by Capt. Chas. Wilkes, U.S.N., 369; by Capt. Leighton, 371 I Cyclones, see Hurricanes DfDALUs Rock, 676 Dangers of Soiily,46d Darack's Rooks, 673 Dar El Beida, or Anafa,493 I Dartmouth, 458 Davis Bank, 6d0 Davis' South Shoal, 649 I Dead-reckoning, 707, 708 I Deep-sea Soundings, 661 I iSlee Depth of the AUantio ■ Delaware Bay, 662 ■ Delaware Shoal, 680 I Delaware, 651 iDlPTH OF the ATInt. \ — / — — — • fn Gulf STaEAif:-r.* Nort&ward; (250) Ir- regular Temperatures; 8151) Character of the reat Banks ; (252jl North-easterly Drift tol Europe ; (253) Drift oii| the Fluropean Coasts; (254) Dr. Stark's Obsei- yations; ^255) lilvidencc in Hign Latitudes ; (256-7) Captain Irmin- ger's Observations ; (2o8] Drift on Fseroe's, Ice- land, &c. ; (259) General Summary; (260) Drift of Bottles, and Table; (261) Concluding Be- marks. Hadid, Jebel, 496 Halifox, 63, 644 Han, Bay of, 519 Handia, or Jandia, 596 Hangman Point, 479 Hannah's Coral Shoal (?), 685 Hanois, or Kanovcaux Rocks, 478 Harding's Rocks, 648 Harmattan, The, 203— &e Winds on African Coa.'^t Harrington Soand, 625 Harrison Rock (P), 671 Hartland Point, 467 Hartwell Reef, 606 Hats, The, 469 Hatteras, Cape, 656 Haulbowline Island, 473 Havana, 82 Henderson, or Chaucer Bank, 67 Henlopen Cape, 652 Henry Light, Cape 655 HervagauTts Breakers (?), 672 Hierro, or Ferro, 602 Hoedic Isle, 480 Hog Fish Cut, 623 HoUand, Positions of, 24 Homestone, The, 458 Homet Pointe, 476 Honey Island, 529 Hook Point, 471 Horse of Willingdon, Ui Horse Latitudes, 206 Horse-shoe, 646 Hubberston Road, 469 Huntley's Rook (P), 683 Hurd's Channel, 822 Ii ■ V , INDEX. 729 Hurricanes, 214 — 234: (76) Discussions Enu- merated} (77) Defini- tions; (78) Law of Storms; (79) Sir W. Reid'8"Rule;''(81)Ir- regolarities ; (82) Sea- sons ; (83) Barometer Indications ;(84)Precau- tions Necessaiy; (85) Prognostics; f86) Move- ment of Crclone; (87) Rule; (88) Lieu- tenant 3. Evans' (Stormy Jack's) Storm bud; (89) Use of it (90) N.E. Quadrant (91) S.E. Quadrant (93) S.W. Quadrant N.W. Quadrant. Captain Leia^ton's narks; (96) Exam- ples ffiven on Chart; (97) Hurricanesof 1780; (98) Trinidad Hurricane; (99) Barbados Hurri- cane; (100) Hurricane of 1830; (101) On the United States Coast ; (102)AtNewYork,&c., (108) On Making use of Hurricanes. I Ices, 352 : (276) Bematks ; (277) Formation of loe- oergs ; (278) Dimen- sions ; (279) How formed ; (280) In Green- land ; (281) Seasons ; (282) Description of Ice- bergs ; (283) Mr. Red- field's Views ; (284) Ex- amples of Ice-orifts into Lower Latitudes ; (286) The same, from Mr. Redfield ; (286) llie Ships on the Ice, per- haps Sir John Frank- lin\; (287) Remarks by Lieutenant Evans; Cau- tions and Indication ; A Warning Ille de Sein, 469 jllha de Sal, 605 lllhas dos Idolos, 538 llnagua, 78 llndia Shoal (P), 688 , ._ I Indian River Inlet, 653 )k (P). 683 llnglis Pohboyeuh River. } (250) Ir-I nnperatureg A ttcter of the! inks; Ml srly Drift tol !53) Drift fliil )ean Coabt^J itark's Obser-l 65) Kvidencol Latitudes;! ptain Irmiii-I vations; (258)1 FsBroe'H, Icc-I (259) General! 1 (260) Drift , and Table ;L icluding Re- 1 EL, 496 644 ,519 Fandia, 596 oint, 479 >ral Shoal(?),| Hanovcauxl B ^cks, 648 ^rhe, 203— Seel African Coa!1« of: HelnidM,l)l9 Ireland, 122— 120 Samwa, li2 Long luand Sound, 158, 160 Louisiana, 168*9 Maine, 153—156 Manildeof, i;^ Marocco, 14.6 Maryland, 162 Massad^utetto, 155-157 Mexico, i(t4 Miadssippi, 168 Netherlands, 131, 133 New Brunswick, N.Cst. 140 , S. Coaat 154 Newfoundland^ 147 New Hampshire, 155 New Jersey, 160, 161 New York, ieO North Carolina, 164 Norway, 126—128 Ifovn Dpotja, N. Coast, 149 — ' — ■ .. ■ ! ' . , , S. Coast, 150, 152 Orkney IsUuids, 118 P^rtug^l45r« Prince Edward Island, 149 Bhode Island, 158 Scotland, £. Coast, 116 r-Tll8 -r, W. Coast, 119 —121 Slietland Isles, 118-19 Soutb Carolina, 165 Spun Jif . Coast, 143 ,W. Coast, 146-6 St. Lawrence, Gulf of, 147 , Hiyer, 148 Texas, 169, 170 Thames River, 105 I'ierra Firme, 174 United States, 153 Vineyard Sound, 157 Virginia, 161 Wdes, 110 Westlndialslands, 172, 173 White Sea, 26 Lighthouse Island 463 LisDoi^, 32 Little George Bank, 674 Lisaid, The, 463 Los, Isles ds, 538 Lemba Grande. 583 Long Bar, 622 Longships, 4^ Loo Itodt, fi87 Lookout Cape, 657 Lundy Island, 466 Luzuero Point, 48^ Lynhaven Bay, 653 M'Cabtht's Islaiid, 521 Machichaco Cape, 483 Machi Pong^, 654 Macon, Fort, 657 Madeiba ISLANPS, 581 Madeline Reef (P), 607,686 Magdalen Islands, 53, 59 Magnetism and the Compass, 709 Terrestrial Magnetism, 709 ; Peclination, 710 i Dip, 611 ; Inteii|al^, &c., 71? MAONi. ic Vabiation, 378—5 (224—6) General I^- marks; (297, 8) Xso- eonic Lines; (299, 300^ Annual Change and Table. 6lee Vfuriation of the Compass Mahedia,491 Mahfieah R^veri 549 Malabar lBho^,Q75 Malaba^ Cape, 488 Malmeranda Point, 570 Manqel, Q., 517 Man-of-Wa^ Sound, 474 ManveTSi Port, 51 Marcouf,476 Margaret Bay, 645 Mam Rook (P), 686 Marigot of Mosquitos, 513 Mariner Book (P), 671 Maroooo, ^, 487 Martinique, 91 Martin's Reef (P), 689 Martines Peak, 605 Mar^' Shoal (P), 678 Maryland Coi^it, 654 Mat^oong Island, 511, 2 Matamlla Bank, 77 Martinieus Rock, 646 Mfitomkin, 654 May Cape, 651 May Cape Bank, 652 MaydafP), 668 Mayor Cape, 483 Mayo Islajid, 609 Maysi, C., 82 Mazagan,494 Mellaooree lUver. 543 Menor, Cape, 483 Merlin l^k, 642 MesiMR(do Cape, 552 Metw»y Port, 646 M^wstoi^e, The, 458 iSdgley Shoia, 669 ^|U^I4^aTen,460 MiUs Bleaker, 622 Minors Hill, 626 Minots Ledge, 641 Mink Cape, 510, 511 Misen Pesk, 475 Mpg^dor,496 MoiDey Point, 473 Monte Gordo, 616 Monte Moio, 609 McmroTia, 552 Montreal, 60 Montauk Point, 650 Monte Gordo, 615 Mossman Rook, 677 Mount, Cape, 551 Mount Desert Rock, 258, 646 Mount Langton, 624, 631 MounV8B|Biy,463 Mount SuzoB, 538 Mouvand's Qank (P), 684 Mouro Met, 484 Mordeira Q(^y, 606 Morebiah Rivet, 542 Mosteiros, 561 Mud Bar, 524 Mud Hole, 650—6 Minn's Reef (P)t?82 Murray Mc^rage, 627 Nahavt Rooie, 648 Nangle Bay, 469 Na^tasket Rood, 647 Nantucket Shoals, 675, 649 , Tides of, 258 Nassau, 78 Negres Rocks, 675 Newfoundland Banks, 640 r — , Tides of 257 New Orleans, 72 New York, 70 Niger River, 40 Nick's Mate Island, 648 Noon, 500 Norman Cape, 52 North Sea, Tides of, 265 North Shoal. 663 North Rooli, BermudM 622 Norway, Positions on, : Nova Scotia. 63 Nnevitas, Nun Rock NunaTri OOHEL, M Oracoke I Old Head, Old ^hi : Old Mamo Old South Old Wall, Oleron, Isl Orango Isl Orion Rod Orkneys, P Orotava, 60 OrriodeTe Ortegal Ca Outer Hole, 0TerfiillB,6 Owers, The Paoham Bi Pahna(, 601 PalmarinP( Pamlico Sot Paris Obai^ Park, The, 4 Parroquet U Passage i Anti-Tradl Passages — General Rei (301) Orea iiisr; (302 Applicatioi ing Desori Vessels ni (306) Trac by the Wii Sailing £ To and from Clutnnel, 371 Outward ^ Table of 1^ don, Hlffj 380, 391 To and fro George's Chi 387 Liverpool t* 382,. bv Channel, I South Ch^ South of Liverpool, To and (rom liiuiftf, 587. INDEX. m Kuevitas, 83 Nun Rock, 663 Nnna Txirtdo R., 633 OOHEL, Mount, 612 Oraooke Inlet, 637 Old Hend, 473 Old min Road, 653 Old Mamora, 491 Old South Shoal, 649 Old WaU, The, 462 Oleron, Isle, 480 Oraogo Island, 531 Orion Rock (P), 683 Orkneys, Position, 13 Orotava,600 Orrio de Tapia, 484 Ortegal Cape, 484 Outer Hole, 626 0TerfUlB,684 Owers, The, 456 Paohah Bat, 456 Pahnii,60I Pahnarin Point, 520 Pamlico fi«nad, 657 I Paris Obserratorjr, 27 Park, The, 456 I Parroquet Ie1a.id, 527 I Passage Winds, tee Anti-Trades I Passages — General Remarks on, 375 (301) Great Circle Sail- ing; (302) Examples { (303> ReiAarkB on i (304) Application of Forqro- ing Descriptions; (305) Vessels under Bteam; (306) Tracks Governed by me Wind Systems Sailing Ditetifiitne. I To and from the English Channel, 378—81 Outward Voyage, 378; Table of Win'ds'at Lon- don, JS79'; Horiiewttrd, 380, 361 I To and ^m tlie St. Oeotge's Channel, 382'^ 387 Liverpopl to Holyhtod, 382; bv the North Channel, 383; l^y' the South Chtonel, 884; South of Ireknd tb LiTcrpool, 385 I To and from the Eai^t liiuk'tr, 387- Sailing Directidm— Aeroee the Equator, 387-404 1. LeaTing the Channel, 389 2. Passage to Madrira, 390 3. West or East of Cape Verdes, 391 Table of Passives, 4. CrMsingtheEqatttor 394 Dutch Crosftihgs ibid Tables, 395 Lizard to the Line, Maury's, 396 Maury's Croaring, 397—401 D'Aprds Instruc- tions, 402 Return toward Eng- land, 403 Toward England firom the Equator, ^3 CanAiT Islands, 603 To and nom the l^negal and Gambia, 404—410 From Africa Homewards, 409 Cape Rozo to Meft' de Los, 34^, 1 Biafra to Sieifra LdOne, 409 Ditto, by Capf . OKvfer Weet Indies — To tod from, 411 Toward Jamaica, ecu., 411 West Indies to En^Ush Channel, 413 - Ditto tod North Ame- rica bom. the " Derro- tero," 414 Strait df Florida, 416, 7 To tl^e Caribbeef or Windw«r*Is.)419 Caribbean Seat, 422 Bermudas to Windward Is., 423 Bermudas, 629, 33,423 Steam Navigation be- tween Tobago and De- meraTa, 424; to Ja- maica, Ban Juan, Cape Haytion, and St. lago, 425 Between Grenada and Jamaica, 427 Butwouu Jamaica and SaiUng Direetiont — Yucatan, Chaorefl, Oar- tagen^t &o., (^ To theBayof HondunuL 428 To Eastern Coaat of Yu- catan, byjQiipt. Dun- sterville, 430 Jamaica to Chajnes and Cartagena, 433 JaxtfmatL to Maracaibo, 439 The Chtonels of Provi- dbnce^ 434 To Demerary, 435 To and from the Northeni Ports of America, 43&— 440 Great Circle Courses', 437 } Oemt. Charles Hare's In'st^otionB, 437; to the Gulf of St. Lawrence,^ 439 ; by the Strait of Belleide, 440 Between Europe tod New York, 441—444 General Remarks, 441 1 Tables of Croisingsand Time from England! to New York, from Maury 442,443; Times, 444 Steam Tracks (or Lanes^ to and from America, 444 -^448 Maury's Remarks, 444^ 445; Distances, 446 { Directions of the Lanes, Tables, 447 ; Adm. FitzRoy's Remarks, 447 Between Northern Europe and the United States, 448-460 From the United States to the Equator, 451, 452 Maury's Remarks on the Old and New Routes, 451; Time Table of the Different Routes, 452 Monitions and Instruc- tions for the Westwn . Side of the Atlantifi by Mr. Redfield, 453 Passe de Grave, 481 Patty's OverfhUs (P), 686 Peak of Trade, 615 Pedra da Gall, 508 Pel6e Island, 478 Penos Cape, -ISi 732 INDEX. Piftodo dc St. Pedro, 637 Penha Orond6, 505 Fensanoe, 463 Pcfrnambnoo, 640 Pioaoho Reef, 486 Pioo, 671 Pioo RoiTO, 588 Pin Rook, The, 459 Pine, Cape, 643 Plymoutn Position, 10 Sound, 466 Ponta Albernas, 578 da Aroo, 590 delBaxio,577 Bighuda, 614 : Blanca, 576 Cabeira, 676 do Castillo, 563 de Caterinaa, 57 de las Continen- doe,569 Cortada, 591 daCnu, 691 — de Fayal, 391 Fiiracia,586 Delamda, 590 delGada,5{;8 de los Ilheos Agua Caliente, 677 delnoao, 582 Jardim, 689 das Lagoinhas, 563 Moniz, 590 — Negra, 378 de Pesquero - alto, 579 Ruiva, 576 de San Antonio,591 de San Jorge, 691 del Topo, 614 Tristao,590 Turrais, 679 Parga,589 Pont da Sem, 479 Poole Bay, 457 Porgas Bank, 688 Portandik, 39, 512, 513 Portland, 457 Rock, 83 Porto Cansado, 601 Grande, 617 do Uheo, 660 Praya,orPrayaBay, 669 Praya, 45 Rico, ground sea,302 Santo, 681 Port Praya, 610 Royal Bay, 62-5 Spain, 92 ^..j. , . Portudal, 519 Portugal, Coast of, 485 Portugalete, 483 Positions, Tables of,— AMca,N.W. Coast, 33 Aftioan Islands, 37 Azores, 40, 41 Bahama Is., 74 Barbadoes, &c., 89 Bay of Biscay, 26 Belgium, 24 Bermuda Is., 73 Canarr Isles, 42 Cape Verde Isles, 44 Caribbee Isleo, 89 Colombia, 93 Cuba, 79 Denmark, 21 England, E. & S.Csts., 7 , W. Coast, 9 Feeroo Isles, 46 France, 26 Gambia River, 34 Greenland, 47 Guayana, 92 Guinea Coast, 36 Gulf of St. Lawrence, 63 Hayti, or St. Domingo, 84,5 Hanover, 22 HoUand, 22, 23 Honduras, 95 Iceland, 46 Jamaica, 81 Labrador, 41 Leeward Is., 90 ^^^j Liberia, 35 ,>.n'^'t Madeira, 42 ssVp Man, Isle of, 10 Mexico, 96 Mosquitia, 94 New Brunswick, 62 Newfoundland, 47 — 60 Norway, 17 Nova Scotia, 61 Orkney, &c., 11 Passage Islands, 76 Porto Rico, 85 Portugal, 30 St. Domingo, 84, 86 St. Lawrence, Gulf and River, 53 Scotland, 11—13 Shetland Is., 12 Spain, 28 Sweden, 19 Trinidad, 89 United States, 64—60 Venezuela, 93 Virgin Is., 86 v^.^i Wales, 9 West Indies, 75 Yucatan, 96 Potomac's Bank (P), 682 Pow Grande, 649 Praya Bay, 569 Preguizo Bay, 615 Praya Branca, 616 da Gatta, 618 , Isle of, 576 Prehaun Point, 473 Prince Edward Island, 56 Prior Cape, 484 Priorino Cape, 486 Pronk Rocks (P), 677 Pryce Shoal (P), 687 Puerto de Cavallos, 694 Naos, 594 Pipas, 569 Point, 483 de las Vcllas, 574 Pullam Island, 532 Punta de Anaga, 690 Quails, Isle of, 610 Quebec, 69 Queenstown, 473 Querqueville, 476 Quiberon Bay, 480 Quidi Vidi, 642 Quorra River, 40 Rabat, 492 Race Cape, 641 Rame Head, 462 Ramigeau's Vigia, 675 Rains, see Equatorial Calms Ras al Hudik, 495 Tagrifelt, 487 Rat Isle, 466 Rattlesnake Shoals, 658 Raza Isle, 616 R6, He de, 480 Rebellion Roads, 659 Red HUl, 610 Ree&, between Fayal and Flores, 578 Regla Point, 487 Reguala, or Gueder, 500 Rennell's Curbent, 26d 272: (138) (141) Ckj raoter, definition, an^ examples; (142) Drifll of bottles; (143) Doil} rates estimated. Revolving Storms, Hurricanes. Rhoon Rooks, 677 Ribeira Barca, 614 INDEX. 733 Ribefra Grande, 600, 614 Plata, 614 llidge. The, 466 Rio, The Channel, fi04 Grande, 629 — NaneB,533 Ouro, fi06 Pongo, fi37 Roallon'i Book, 671 Roancarrig Island, 470 llocaa lales, 639 Roche Bonne, 666, 481 Roohe's Point, 472 Rookall, or Rokol, 633 Rock Head, 643 Rolleis, or Ground Swell, 301 Roman, or Romain, C, 658 Romboe, or Bomes Isles, AI4 Ronan's Point, 473 Rooma I., A39 Roxo, Cape, 524 lioyai Sovereign Shoal,450 Ruivo, Pico, 683 Rundlestone, The, 464 Ryder Shoal, 674 Sable IsUnd, 62, 636 Banks, 643 Cape, 646 ISabrina Island Volcano, 667 i SafB, or Asfee, 496 I Sailing Dikeotions, tee Pass^fes. I Saints Bridffe, 479 St. Adrian Cape, 484 — Agnes Id., 466 — Anne's Bay, 476 — Anne, Bank & Shoals, 660 I- Ann's Head, 468 I — Antonio, 46 Island, 618 I - Catharine's Bluff, 627 1 — Christopher, 90 - Crprian Bay and Cape, - Croix, 88 I -David's Head, 622 — Esprit K«ef, 690 — Francis Boy, 611 — George's Channel, 470 -l^d«8,264 St. John River, 612 — John's, Newfoundland, 62 — Lawrence, Gulf of, 68 — Lawrence River, 64 , Tides of, 267 — Lourenzo Point, 686 — Mary's Island, 621 ~ Martin's Cape, 483 — Martin's Point, 627 — Mary's Bank, 680 — Mary, Cape, 621 — Mary's Cape, 621 — Mary, Isle of, 662 — Michael's, 41 ,666 Mount, 463 — Nicolas Island, 616 — Paul's Islets, or Penedo de St. Pedro, 637 — Paul's Island, 68 — Fetrox Point, 468 — Thomas, 87 — Vincent's Island, 616 — Vincent, Cape, 486 Sal, 606 Salee, or Sloa, 492 Sallahtook Point, 643 Saltees Lightvessel, 471 Salum River, 620 Salvages, llie, 43, 592 Saiween Rock (P), 668 Sambro Island, 644 Sand Island, 639 Sand Hills, 626 Sandwich Bay, 61 Sandy Hook, 661 Sangaree River, 640 Sankaty Head, 649 Santander Harbour, 483 Santander, 483 San Antonio, 610 Juan, 87 Lorenzo, 663 Forge, 616 Lucar, 486 S. Pedro, Bay of, 618 San Roque (Jape, 640 Vincente, 690 Santa Cnus, 498 , St. Antonio, IsLind, 626 Bay, 616 — George Island, 674 - lugo, (309 ■- Johu'H, 041 619 601 6U9 Sta. Lucia, 616 SaiitittgO, oH Point, 676 de la Palma, de Tenerife, Sto. Domingo, 87 Sakoasho Sea, 288—294: (162) Area t (163) Limits Defined) (164) Major Rennell's Remarks ; (166-6) ExpUmation of Its Character; (167-4) Sargasso Weed; (169, 170-1) Remarks on it} (172) The Weed seen on the African Coast Scilly Isles, 10,466 Sea isUnds, 668 Seaford Road, 466 Seal Island, 64 — ,646 Seasons on Afirioan Coast, 406 Selsea BiU, 466 Seed Bom Noire, 499 Sei^al, 690 Seine, Bay of the, 476 Sem, Cape, 497 Senegal, 613 Seneg^ River, 613 Serranilla Bank, 84 Sette Cidades Mount. 566 Seven Capes, 606 Seven Stones, The, 466 Seville, 486 Seville Point, 486 Shambles, The, 457 Sheep Head, 476 Sherboro Inlet, 649 Shinnecook Bay, 49 Shleema River, 500 Sierra Leone, 39, 545 Signal-post Hill, 610 Silver Kay Bank, 79 Skerries, The, 460 Skull Harbour, 474 Sloa, or Salee, 492 Smalls, The, 469 Smith's Island, 657, 654 Smith Rock (P), 667 Sombrero, 90 Southampton, Tides at, 253 S.E. Drift Curbenth to Europe and Africa, 273 —283: (144) General Set; (145) Estimate of Velocity; (146) Bottles" Enumerated, and Cur- rent along Portugal ; (147) Examples frum Maury, and Jackson ; (148—150) Remarks by Flcurieu,MajorRenncll, and the Baron Rous- sin. 784 INBBX. S.W. Broak«r, fi6rundaa« fll«{a, Ooaot of, 483 . PwdtiotMi of, 81 Bpanii^ Foint^ 9^1 8paiu8h8iioar(P),671 8part«l Gi^, 38, 488 fUpmr Gttpe, 341 8f^ iBbBkd, 473 SpilUMid, 406 Sing Channel, 624 Standflirt Point, 407 Start Point, 409 Steen Orevnd (P), 683 Stephenson Shoal, 444 Still Bay, 618 Storms, «m Hitrbicakbs Strait of Doyer, 455 Strookaon Point, 473 Studlaod Bavi 457 Styx Bank, 584 Suenuk, or Sn^tt, ot Mo- godor, 406 Sagar-Ioaf Mountain, 619 Sumtet' Fort, 659 Suae, Coast of, 499 TAMARA,0d8 Tangier P North Sea, E. Coast of, 247 Norwasr, 247 Orkney Isv, 246 Portugal, 248 Prince Edward Is., 249 St. Lawrence, Ghilf and River of, 249 Scotland, 246 Shetland, 246 £bain and Portugal, 241 Titanies and South Coast, 245 United States, 250 Wales, 245 West Indies, 251 Tinker, The, 460 Tobacco Bay, 628 Tobago, 91 Toiro, Cape, 646 Torbay, 458 Toriana Cape, 485 Torrinhas, 084 Tornadoes, 200 '%,'• Furricanes Touilrpiet Rock, ^'T^ Tou> .J.' Ohassiro&j Lot) I jor lie Cordouan, 481 Tower of Hercules, 484 Townsend Fort, 642 Trade Wind, The, 184 (21) Definition ; (22) Sta^ tistics ; (23) N.E. Trade Wind JDirection and Duration ; (24) Extent ; (20^ Northern Limit; (26) Variation in Limits; (27) Southern Edge, with Table; (28) Di- rection ; (29) Diagrams Taadb Wctd— described ; (80) Analysis of the Direction in Dif. ferent Latitudes ; (31) Inferciices ; (32) Sea- sons ; (33) Summary of the Winds by Captain Maury Trafalgar*, Gape, 486 Trdgairt^ RoA (P), 688 Trinidad, 92 (58) Definition} (59) k\use; (60) Position; (61) Range; (62) Rea- son ; (63) At the Ber- mudas TabaronCape,612 Tnlloch Reef (P), 060» 679 Turbot Rocks, 472 Turtle, ae Bashaw Islands, 549 Tuskar Rook, 470 Ttphoons, see Hurricanes United States Survey, 69 Ushant Island, 479 Valentia^ 16, 476 Variation of the Compass, tee Magnetism Variation : — ! Africa, West Coast, 40 Azores, 41 Bahamas, &c., 79 Canada, 60 Cape Verde Is., 46 Caribbean Sea, 96 Garibbee Is., 92 Cuba, 84 England, 11 France, 28 Greenland, 53 iiulf of St. Lawrence, 60 Gulf of Mexico, 73 Iceland, 52 Ireland, 16 Jamaica, 84 Madeira, 44 Newfoundland, 13 North Sea, 25 Norway and Sweden, 21 Nova Scotia .Src, 64 St. Domingo, 88 Spain and Portugal, 32 United States, 72 Virgin Is., &c., 92 West Indies, 96 INDEX. 730 Vame, The, 456 Verde, Cape, 605 Ver^, apr, 626, 636 Vigia do8 Azores (?), 678 ViUa Baleira, 581 Villa l.anoa, 660 Villa Nueva, 486 Villano, Cape, 483 Virgin la. Currents, 298 Virgin Rook, 641, 673 Virginia Islet, 600 Volcanic Region, 691, 2 Shocks, 678 VolouioeB, 6t. Michael's, 666 Wad MesM, 499 Wad-oom-er-begh, 494 Wad Tansift, 496 Wahlstein's Breaker's (P), 671, Walkeria, 536 Warl^s Shoal (P), 686 Washuigton, 71 Waterfurd Harbour, 471 Waterspouts, 236—239 Watson's Bock, 673 Wedinoon or Noon, 600 Westenenk Shoal, 681 Western Ids., or Azores, 663 West India Cubbents, 302--416 (18&— 8) Currents on the Colombian Coast ; (189) Equatorial Current to th«) Antillas ; ri90) Off the Coast of Guayana, by Lieutenant Oreeve- link; (192) Eastward Currents South of Ja- maica ; (193) In the West Part of the Ca- ribbean Sea ; (194) Drift of Bottles { (196, 196) N. Coast of Hayti, &c. ; (197, 8) Between the Caribbean Islands ; (199) The Bays of Hon- duraa and Guatemala i (200) South of Cape An- tonio ; (201) South aide of Cuba ; (202) Channel of Yucatan ; (204) Gulf of Mexico; (206) Re. markn by Maury } (207) North of the Yucatan Channel Whale Rook (P), 679 Whitesand Bay, 464 Wimble Shoals, The, 666 Winds in Gen£kal,176 — 184— (1.) General Remarks ; (2) Circulation of the Atmosphere ; (3) Hal- ley's and Hadley's Theories; (4) Wind Sys- tem's ; (5) Anti-trades ; (6 — 8) Equatorial Calms or Doldi-ums ; (9) Aque- ous Vapour (10) Height of the Atmosphere ; ai) Winds of Each Hemisphere Q2, 13) Force of the Wind at Sea and Land, Beau- tart and GlalBher's No- tation of; (15) Actual Force and Velocity ,with Table; (16) Land and Sea Breezes ; (17) Dove's Law of Gyration (18, 19) Area of the Wmd Zones ; (20) Cyclonic Area <%« Trade Wind and Anti-trade Wind, Equatorial Calms, Tropical Calms, &c. Winds on the Afei' an Coast, 200 : (48) Influence of the Land; (49) Dampier's Description; (50)EaBt- erly Current caused by them; (61) Southerly .,r-0 ■■-fi Monsoons; (62) Winds and Seasons, by Captain Midgley; (67)theHar- mattan Winds on the — Atlantic Isles, 189 Azores, Table of, &o.,663 Bahama Islanids, 192 Bermudi « 207, 633 Bissago 68, 528 Bulama, 63. Cuba, 193 English Chami» 210 Guayana, 193 Jamaica, '91 Leste, at Mnfl«ira, 'H4 Liverpool, ^i, 210 Los. Isles d )39 Me- lean St 193, 94, 190 Mosquitia, 193 The NOKTHS, 194 NovaScotia, 2 ' Sable Island, 2 Seasons in th If of Mexico, 195 Senegal, 616 St. Lawrence, Or " and River, of, 212 South Carolina, 21~. TTnited States, ith Coast, 196 West Indies, 190 Yucatan, 193 Winter Quarter ShoalriM Woladia, 496 Wolf Rook, The, 464 Woodall's Rock (P), 669 Wrecks on the Coast of Africa, 601-2 Wreck Hill, 622, 626 Yallucka River, 349 Yawry Bay, 649 Yellaboi Island, 544 Yoal, or Joal, 619 Youghal, 473 Young GongAlez Isle, 336 Zinghicor, 523. ''■>',iSf„';-">.'*. ,'