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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mAthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 %' BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF NOVA SCOTIA, WITH PJLATES OF y # THE PRINCIPAL HAUBORS ; 5. /^/z INCLUDING A {dartieular ;aceount OF TH?", ISLAND OF GRAND MANAN. v^. :..% ♦- By ANTHONY LOCKWOOD, PROFESSOR OF HYDROGRAPHY. ASSISTANT SURVEYOR-GENERAL OF THE PROVINCES OF N. S. AND C. BRETON lottixttt: PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR, # Bg C, HaydtH, Brydgts StrtH. Civtni Cmritm; AND SOLD BY CADXLL AND DAVIE8» STRAND. «' - 1818. * ^IP^ 4v ^ '%':■■ '■* 'y.*i- ■M i-v TO HIS EXCELLENCY THE RIGHT HON. THE EARL DALHOUSIE \: GOVERM)R OF M)VA SCOTIA, *c. ^c. ^r. TO THE HON. MEMBERS OF HIS MAJESTY'S COUNCIL, AND TO THE MEMBERS OF THE ASSEMBLY, THIS IVORK JS DEDICATED; AND AS AN INFAM OF PROMISE, IS OFFERED TO THEIR NOTICK, Sliouid it be received under a favourable consideration, no Industry or Care will be wanting, to mature its growth, and render it worthier of the Public, by THE AUTHOR. »■ * ■-»*(■ INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. A Merk technical description of the Harbours of any country can aflTord Uttle entertainment : but those of Nova Scotie, whose features are so nearly similar, furnish veny scanty materials for descriptive cjmposition : this scantiness is still more contracted bv the want of leisure, and the strong vicissitudes of the climate, cramping exertion ; but probably more by a limited capacity. Gladly would I give this crude mass of information to any person of talent, possessing a local knowledge of the country, who would take the pains to blend with it a particular account of the Province ; by whose hand it might be cleared of its imperfections, and weeded of its orthographical and other errors. Improved by such observations and sentiments as the subject would admit, the work might find a place in the libraries of the respectable men of our community, and convey to our good B A o A niUFF DKSCHIHTION f1 r ■V1 countryinon, at llieir English tiresiiles, an improved idea of Nova Scoliu ; and tlio imaginary wilderness, with its bears and monsters, give place to Acadia, witli her happy, exceedingly hiippy features. However, as 1 despair of such assistance, and an account of the dilferent harhours may benefit, if not preserve, many valuable persons, plain truth must substitute decoration. Those for whom it is cliierly intended, will receive it as a code of instructions, written in their own style, and will be guided clear of the dangers it points out, into places of safety, where they can rest at ease from their labours, watchless. Acting under the orders of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, and subject to the control of the Naval Commander in Chief, my time is consequently theirs : therefore, having only such periods to devote to this work as a rela.\ation from my professional duties will admit, much cannot be expected. Let the eye of scrutiny charitably scan its imperfections; and should it be thrown open to the delicate vision of quick perception, a consideration of the Author's incessant servitude will soften its monotonous discordance. On ship-board, one set of ideas frequently serve a voyage. Deprived of refined female society, which tends to perfection more than any plan of education, and without which the manners are harsh and rude; sailors, who see most, and before whom nature derobes, are seldom gifted with descriptive powers; traversing this terraqueous globe, and pursuing research as a pleasing dut}-, what exquisite delight should 1 have derived, had Providence permitted me to give to '. i ■AJ^f' OP NOVA SCOTIA. 3 the world, in suitable language, a just description of the various scenes that have passed in review, during a period of twenty-five years' incessant peregrination. Secured from necessity in age, by the liberality of the Board I have the honor to serve, and enjoying an income exceeding my wantS) I disclaim even the slightest wish to derive pecuniary benefit from this humble attempt to be useful : if it will pay the expence of the publication, I shall be satisfied. The Hon. Charles Morris, Surveyor General of the Province, furnished me with many documents, &c. and trebly enhanced the favor by his manner of conferring it. From these papers were drawn much of my information, and the peimission of free access to the oHicc essentially aided me. m 'm i. VJ BRIEF DESCRIPTION or NOVA SCOTIA. Nova SCOTIA lies within the ^"^ and 46**' degree ot North Latitude, and between tho 6)" and 67"" degree of Longitude, West from the Greenwich meridian. It is connected with tlic body of North America, by an Isthmus, about 20 miles wide, wliich forms the boundary and Eastern line of New Brunswick. By a fair compulation it coutanis 1.5617 square miles, or 9994880 acres : one third of this superficies is occupied by lakes of various shapes and sizes, spread in all directions on the face of the Peninsula. There is no point in the Province 30 miles from navigable water. The Southern margin is broken, rugged, and barren, with very prominent features, deep indents, and craggy islands; with ledges c -0 ^■.- G A BRIEF nF.SCRIPTION I inserted in the sea, either intended hv nature to resist tlie constant attack of the Western Ocean ; or, which is more prohable, produced by its action. The features of the Northern Coast are soft, and free from rocks: the combined effects of heavy rain, severe frosts, and the sea, make a sensible alteration in its appearance. The few harbors along its whole range, are of very limited capacity. The coal, gypsum, and other minerals, abounding here, are probably of the same strata with those in Cape Breton, as they appear in the same direct hne. The soil of the interior is generally of a good quality : a great portion of it, free of stone, is easily tilled, and very productive. The forests are composed of Beech ; Elm ; Oak ; black, white, and yellow Birch ; Maple ; white, prickly, and black Ash ; pitch, white, and yellow P'ne ; white, black, and red Spruce ; Larch ; Hakmetak, or Juniper; Hemlock; and Fir. The temperature, or rather intemperature, is the most equivocal of any part of the world. The following medium meteorologicals will give an idea of the great changes to which it is subject. Year Jan. Feb. Mar. Apr. May. June. July. AUR. Sep. Oct. Nov. Dec. ISI4 23 27.5 30.25 42.5 49.6 57. G4. 64. 57.75 48. 39. 25.75 1815 22.75 19.5 33. 38. 17.75 56. 62. 61.5 55.9 44. 39.25 28.75 1816 24.5 24.5 25.75 38. 46. 53.75 61.7fi 62,25 54.5 48. 41.5 28.25 181* 19.3 17.9 23.8 1 15.1 14.7 18.5 t ■;^ OF NOVA SCOTIA. 7 The usual mode of finding the mean is incorrect, particularly in these countries, where the changes are sudden and frequent : the common periods for observing it are before sun-rise, at 2 P.M. and 9 P.M. The cold is most intense at 2, 3, or 4 o'clock in the morning ; therefore the mercury is seldom observed when lowest, and never taken into the reduction : while the influence which the sun maintains at his meridian is invariably admitted. The third hour in the afternoon, and 10 at night, would, in my opinion, be near the truth. What I conceive to be accurate reductions, are marked -f- The population has been very differently estimated, nor will it be easy to ascertain it exactly, as no census has ever been taken. From the best information, it may be stated at 120,000 ; U.S opinion varies from 80 to 160. The Aborigines were Indians, similar to those found in the other parts of North America: tlie most enterprising of these people have deserted the Province, following, as it were, their means of subsistence to the less frequented wilds of Labrador, Canada, Ciipi; Breton, and Newfoundland. The few that are left, say 350 families, 1500 persons, wander from place to place, in all the abjectness of deplorable stupidity. The attempts hitherto made to improve their condition, have not only been abortive, but even productive of evil, by lessening their little energy, and teaching them to expect by begging, what they ought to obtain i)y conunon industry. The Roman Catholick priests have an ascendancy ver them, that checks, in some degree, their propensity to strong drink. H A BRIEF DESCRIPTION' ^ t, Throiiu,h the metlium of these persons, who are actively inteUigent, ought certainly all benefits, or what may be intended as such, to be conveyed to them. Their ingenuity appears to be limited to the composition of trifling articles of bark and porcupines' quills, and to ha\e long been at its zenith of improvement. Their honesty, which is exen)plified in many instances, appears to arise from apathy ; and if the remaining few possessed activity enough to follow their bretliren, the Province would be altogether relieved of a useless, idle, filthy race, whose disposition to ramble, and distaste to all social comforts and civilized life, will ever leave them in their present degraded state. One instance will suffice to shew the impossibilitv of enticing the Indians to any plan suggested by our ideas of decency and comfort. The govermnent of Massachussets granted to about .50 families, under the immediate inspection of a respectable missionary, 200 acres of excellent land, improved ready for their use ; and as a farther inducement, built for them a chapel. Ten years have these people held their fair possessions, witnessing the progress of the surrounding settlers, from poverty to respectable case, without the least efibrt to benefit by their example. These, their characteristic traits, are imalterable. They hunt, clothe, and build, the same as usual, and I l>elieve not one of them shews the least disposition to the mechanic arts. Should any further attempts be necessary to improve them, would they not be most usefully employed in improving the roads, or forming new ones ? in felling and clearing new lands, preparatory to settling them? In thus giving them labour proportionable to their present habits, their wants might, without W h op NOVA SCOTIA* 9 much less, be supported by tlie Government, as a kind of compensation tor its bounty, would accrue to the Province. The abuse of hunuiiiity is an excitement to dwell a little longer on tiiis subject. The Indian families on the Shubenaccadie» aided so immediately imder the «ye of Government, will doubtless 8ul)stantiate the unpleasant truth, that their uncivilized habits are unconquerable, and turn the tide of that bounty, hitherto so ill applied, to the log houses of tlie poor settlers, immured with large families, in forests that conceal their wretchedness and rags. , Whatever tends to improve the condition of men, is an object desirable to e'-ery feeling mind ; and in considering the state of the Indians, great caution is necessary to distinguish between change and improvement. Men of common experience must liave witnessed the pain, the disappointment, and discomfiture that has resulted from a mistaken notion of conferring happiness. Lord Gleutiiorn rendering his nurse miserable by bettering her condition, (iumiediatc'ly in point) although the picture of iuncv, is wide of caricature. The exemplary peoplt; culled Quakers, in Pciuisylvania, have, with a persevering patience peculiar to themselves, tried every art that humanity could devise, to instruct and to infuse into the minds of the Indians, whom they ha\ e collected, the ideas of clcuuliuess, order, and association : alVording them example, precept, and every possible inducement to industry and art. What has resulted ? D SiSUS 10 A BRIEF DESCRIPTION, An Indian never can be cured of the wandering habit that he has imbibed ; all attempts to settle them have been found to establish this fact. Even the infants, taken from their tribe, cannot be civilized. The banks opposite the coast, home to the shore, abound in excellent fish: Cod, Haddock, Hahbu% Polluck, and various otliers. i Americans, alive to the value of this inexhaustible source of wealth, lie at anchor 15 or 20 leagues in the offing, in numbers, well equipped. Their Chebucto iKjats, from 25 to 70 tons, ride in the middle of the ocean, with buoyancy and ease ; while our miserably constructed and ill furnished vessels, hover near the harbors, fearful of being caught by a gale. The harbor of Halifax, the capital, latitude 44" 40' N. and 63° 40' West longitude, is large enough to contain any number of shipping in perfect safety. It lies nearly North and South, ubout 16 miles in length, terminating in a beautiful sheet of water called Bedford Bason, within which are ten square miles of safe anchorage. The town is seated on the declivity of a peninsula, at the West side of the harbor, ten miles from its mouth. The irregularity of the buildings, and their elevation one above another, form an imposing and picturesque view. A light-house on a small island marks the entrance: the lantern is elevated above the sea 210 feet. A small party of artillery are stationed here to attend signals, with two 24-poundtr& OF NOVA SCOTIA. li as alarm guns. By the attention of these men, several shipwrecks have been prevented. His Majesty's ship Bacchante, in the early part of last year, ran within the breakers ; and without the timely alarm of the island guns, would probably have been lost. S by E. n miles from the light-house, lies the Henercy rock, with 8 feet water on it; E. N. E. one mile from this, is another rock, 12 feet under water; both exceedingly dangerous, and not generally known. The other dangers in this neighbourhood, are distinctly marked on the large sheet of Halifax, and common attention to the directions will ensure safety to the stranger. Halifax was founded in 1747, under the Earl of Halifax, and settled in 174y ; General Cornwallis was then appointed Governor of the Province, by whose directions the town was laid out, and the Peninsula, containing 3,000 acres, divided among the inhabitants, then consisting of 3,000 persons. Since that period it has been governed by General Hopson m 1752 Governor Lawrence "^'^^ Rd. Monckson, Esq Aug. 17, 1757 Justice A. Belcher Oct. 1761 Gov. Ellis, appointed, never sworn into office . . 1761 Gov. Wilmot, 1763, died ^'^^^ Hon. Michael Franklin, Lieut.-Gov. 1766, contmued two months Gov. Francis Legge J^J^ Lleut-Gov. Arbuthnot ^*'^ 12 A IJRIF.F Dl^SCRIPTION Lieut. -Gov. Ricliavd Hughes 177^ Lieut.-Gov. Sir And. Hammond 17BI John Parr, 1782, died ■ . . 17J)1 Richard Bulkcly, president and commander in chiif, Nov.' 26, to JVIay U 1791 Lieut. -Gov. Sir John Wentworth, arrived Jan. and sworn, May . 17.92 Lieut.-Gov. Sir G. Provost, Jan. 17 .... 1808 Sir J C. Sherbrooke,Aug. ly . , 1811 Earl Dalhousie. Opposite Hahtax, on the Eastern side of the iiarbor, whicli is there about nine-tenths of a mile wide, the to\\ n of Dartnjouth was laid out in 1750, and settled: but in the war of 17o6, the Indians collected in great force on the Bason of Mines, ascended the Shubenaceadie river in their canoe'*, and at ni«;ht, surprising the guard, scalped or carried away most of the settlers. From this j)eriod the settlement was almost derelict, till Governor Parr, in 1784, encouraged 20 families to remo\e hither from Nantucket, to carry on the South Sea lishery. The town was laid in a new form, 15CX)/. granted by the provincial assembly to erect buildings: the spirit and activltv of the new settlers, created the most fluttering expectations of success. Unfortunately, in 1792, the failure of a house in Halifax, extcnsivclv concerned in the Whale-fishery, gave a severe check to the Dartmouth establishment, which was soon after totally ruined. A Mr, Stokes was employed by the merchants of Milford in Etigland, to persuade the Nantucket settlers to remove thither: the ofti-'rs were too liberal to be rejected, and the Province lost these orderly and industrious people, except Seth Coleman's family, whose grea^ OF NOVA 8C0TIA. 13 luid disinterested exertions in behalf of the poor, have secured him the favourable opinion of all men, whose approbation is Taluable. The lands behind Dartmouth, are increasing in population and agricultural improvement, which has had some effect in recovering the town. It is contemplated to open a communication by canals, connecting the Shubenaccadie with the harbor at Dartmouth: this is evidently practicable ; but it is questionable, if the country be sufficiently populous, to justify so expensive a labour. At the close of the revt)lutionary war, a number of respectable loyalist famihes from America, brought to Halifax their property, and became residents; and by their capital, increased the growing importance of the town. During the late war, it became the general rendezvous of our ships, consequently the resort of their priaes, which has materially enriched the place, and extended its commerce. The military and naval arsenals, the public hospitals, the ordnance, and other establishments, have added to its magnitude, and increased its consequence. The military, have excellent quarters : 3,000 men, with their proportion of officers, can be comfortably »cconunodated without encumbering the town. The naval yard is seated above the town ; the Commissioner's house, and otlier buildings of the establishment, add much to the beauty of the scenery which presents itself, in ?.scending tiie £ J u A urief descriptiov harbor. In the late uar, u vast luimher of shipping refitted hore, and the mass of labour and duty performed on them, are strong proofs of its good regulation and order. . --.^ North of tlie naval yard, and adjoining, stands the naval hospital, uith a range of new houses for the o; ers of that establishment : the buildin^-s are of wood, convenient and spacious. A rude inelegant square building of stone, is erected on the hill above the hospital, intended as a residence for the naval commander-in-chief. It will probably possess e\ ery convenience, and beauty appears not a requisite: it commamls a view of the harbor and town. II: Halifax, with its suburbs, is composed of 1200 houses, 10,000 inhabitants, two Episcopal Churches, one Scotch Church, (St. Matthews,) two Methodist Chapels, one Anabaptist Meeting, one Roman Chapel, (St. Peter's,) Government House, and the Province Building. The latter, built of free stone, and choice materials, is allowed by connoisseurs, to be u piece of excellent architecture. j:l .r.i South-ciifrtern coast from Halifax to Cape Canso, is environed with dangerous ledges, to approach which, requires good cliarts and confidence. Possessing these a stranger may pursue his route, or take shelter in perfect safety, and the greater the a|)parent danger, the less he has to apprehend ; as the sunken rocks break in coarse weather, shewing the passages between them. >. ,wi. >, or NOVA SCOTIA. 15 Tlie points and headlands, jutting into the sea, present the unfoldings of as good harbors as any in the world ; and between the capital, and the eastern extremity ot the Province, are twelve ports, capable of receiving ships of the line, and fourteen others, with capacity to shelter merchant \essels abounding in wood, water, fish, and other supplies. Des Barre's plans of the harbors, as well as the general chart of the Province, arc published on so extensive and expensive a plan, that precludes the possibihty of those possessing them who need them most. All other charts extant of Nova Scotia, are miserably defective and contradictory. „ ■, , :., ^ , , .. i\* It may not be improper to adduce an instance or two, of their dili'erences : Cape Sable. Rios' Tables N. 44," 22' 4' W. 65" 39' 15" Laurie and Whittle 43 26 65 34 20 Arrowsmith 43 26 65 37 Dcs Barre's . 43 26 66 34 30 .o4t t > BRAZIL ROCK. Laurie and Whittle's book of directions : — '* This is a very dangerous rock, being dry at low water ; there arc full 30 fathoms all round it." Dcs Barrc : — " The Brazil is a small flat rock, with 12 feet of water, and within a cable's distance all round it, you have from ^ ..V-i.'). I i 16 A BRIFF DESCRIPTION six to eight fathoms : it lies £. by S. \ S. distant three letigues from Cape Sable. Holland's Chart, published by Laurie and Whittle, has it S. S. E. nine miles from Cape Sable. In page 9 of the Mame Chart-sellers book of directions, speaking of Port Matoon, he says, " you may turn in with a leading wind." Errofs will creep in by inattention to the printing,or the want of sound information. It therefore becomes the duty of those who have the means, to correct them. 1 % - E ^ » a * O . GEORGE'S BANK - Page 38. Shoal ground of George's Bank, lies in Lat. 4P 38' N. 67' 56' W. Long. Page 24. The shoalest part of this bank, lies in Lat. 44" 12' N. it has on it from 14 to 4 fathoms, and in some places only 10 feet. y } pi;' i ,■ I .5 « a George's Bank shoals, lie in 41° 55' N. and are very dangerous, having in some places only two or three feet water on them : surrounded two or three leagues by rips or breakers which are very dangerous, irregular, and a rapid tide that sets over them most of the time, to the southward. Blunt's Latitude and Longitude 5 ^at. 41° 45' N. LoHg. 67' 51' W. Tablei. i 4p 30/ N. 67'> 27' W. OF NOVA SCOTIA. 1? w. w: The pilot ot' the Bulwark dechired, in the presence of Captain Milne, myself, and others, that he hiid landed on the shoal part of Georgi/s Bank, and that he believed it dried for at least six miles, and was composed of line sand. Many of the Cape Cod tishermen assert, they have seen the gulls sitting on it ; while others positively insist, that the only danger exists in the heavy and cross sea, caused by the current running forcibly over the aneven ground. These contradictory accounts, as to the position, the danger, and extent of these places, tend more to perplex than inform. Many others might be pointed out, but these are thought sutlicienl to raise a doubt, and ought to prevent a reliance upon error, until experience guides the selection, and such charts only are used as an; accurate. No expence has been spared, oven to the sacrifice of the connnon comforts of life, in order to be in possession of the best instruments. These were made by Mr. li. Troughton, and in their accuracy may be placed implicit faith. The original names of the j)laccs are restored, by which only they arc known to the inhabitants and fishermen. Des Barres, in attaching to them the names of noblemen, or men in power, has made his charts of less value ; and in one or two instances, has created serious blimders. Inquire of the people of Jedore for Pot ligmont, or those of Sheet Harbor for Port North, they know them not, nor would they ever be induced to adopt them. Jestico, n harsh, unpleasant, and unmeaning name, is preferred to Port Hood, although the latter is more pleasing to the ear, and pronounced and recollected with ease: all attempts •» ** tl' I ;\ «;/ 18 HRIEF Pr.RrniPTTON \,u ' to change the rude Indian names for others of a finer texture have failed ; even New Jcrusulera and Acudiu, have expired. ■I / .(, . .■( / .1. _r ^« '|.«' ' '♦*• : DIRECTIONS FOR THE HARBOR. In approaching from the westward, round the hght-house, at the distance of a short league. To avoid the sunken rocks which lie to the southward, when the light bears N.W. by N. haul in N. by W. The flag otaves on Citadel Hill, above the town, are distinguishable a considerable distance. By keeping them open of Sandwich Point, you are led clear of the Bell, Litchfield, and Mars rocks, on the West side ; and the Rock Head and Thrumb Cap to the East. When arrived at Sandwich Point, which is bold, keep Chebucto Head in sight, by not allowing it to shut in. This plain mark will lead in the fair way home to George's Island, leaving Point Pleasant shoals on the left, and M'Nab's shoal on the right : round the Island either side, and anchor where you please, in 6, 10, or 13 fathoms, muddy bottom. From George's Island to the confluence of Sackville River, with Bedford Bason, a distance of seven miles, there is not a single obstruction. 5>,i - V "»«. I.I ♦ The men of war usually anchor off the naval yard, which a stranger may easily distinguish by the masting sheers. The merchant vessels discharge their cargoes, and talp in their lading, along-side the wharves. ,, j , , ^ it is necessary, coming from the eastward, to steer for the •*■ I i -s^ 7VrhM^^«j# PHUiArd M UtArt 4iivrU*t AU'rimftitl i'.' M.i', lAt .tmilkfrStm^ft f '1 w ■% r OT NOVA SCOTIA. ly light-house, or Chebucto Head, until the leading marks are on, which are to be followed as before directed. Sherbrook Townr stands on the spit of gravel extending towards Point Sandwich, from M'Nab's Island, culled Mauger's Beach. Major Wright, the Commanding Officer of Engineers, is constructing a small light-house near the tower, upon an exceedingly good plan, to shew an interior light, by means of which vessels may enter the harbor, and be guided to a safe anchorage. This light will, in all probability, pre\ -.i a recurrence of the crowd of accidents by shipwreck on the Thrumb Cap. And if a bell be attached to it, to sound in fogs, worked by machinery^ it will be an improvement. Northward of this, under the lee of the beech, is good anchorage, from 9 to 4 fathoms mud, called M'^Nab's Cove ; the best shelter is in 7 fathoms, with the Beach and Point Sandwich locked ; and George's Island tower touching the N. W. part of the Island. "*' The Island now called M'Nab's was granted to Lord Cornwallis, in thf ytar 1788, and sold by His Lordship to Mr. M'Nab for a. thousand pounds. This property is now considered worth 1.5 or 18,000 pounds. It contains 1090 acres of tolerably good land ; and being for tlie most part under cultivation, adds much to the beauty of the harbor. The vast quanlilies of sea-weed thrown on its shores, useil as manure, is a great acquisition. The S. E. passage form' d hy M*'Nab's Island, and the main land, is obstructed by a sand bar at the South end, with 8 feet on it at low water : therefore it can be used only by small v;^ssels. Within the bar is 6 to 11 fathoms, soft miuld} bottom ic\B SHf^^^ ^P i!5KATCV^ ! y I 20 A DKIEF DESCRIPTION Hei'ing Cove is inhabited by forty Irish famihcs, who subsist bv iishing and piloting. Tie shores of tliis nook are a body of solid rock ; and small vessels lie perfectly sheltered in shoal uater. His Majesty's Frigate Tribune's scene of calamity, at the West side of the entrance of this place, on the 23"^ of November, 1797, would be a subject worthy of the pencil of the first artist. In a few hours the fragment of her crew con- sisted of thirteen persons, one of whom, Mr. Galvin, a master's mate, was the unfortunate cause of the disaster. Presuming on his knowledge of the harbor, he imprudently took charge of the ship : with a free wind, and all sail set, ran her on the Thrumb Cap shoal. In sailing from Halifax eastward, after rounding the Thrumb Cap, E. by S. twenty-rive miles, will clear the outer Jedore ledge : thence to Cape Canso, outside the ledges, the coarse is E. 10 N. ninety-seven miles. The passages within the ledges n»ay be taken v'ith an active ^essel, in bad weather ; when the water is smooth, many of the dangers lie hid. The shore between Halifax and Ji dote forms a long shallow bay, with several indents, affording good slicller for coasters. The principal one. Three Fathoms Harbor, has rcc<'i\ed large vessels in distress, therefore merits attention. The snudler ones, Cole Harbour, Chizetcook, Perpisawick, and Mustpiidoboit, are OF NOVA SCOTIA. 21 too inconsiderable to be here noticed ; yet, as settlements, they are well advanced in agricultural improvement. TiniKE Fathoms Harbor entrance lies eastward of Shut-in Island ; and with the wind on shore is a difficult and dangerous navigation : therefore it is only in cases of real distress that a stranger would attempt it. Ti.3 channel lies two-thirds over to the northward from the Island, and turns bhort round the starboard point, when within, or to the westward of it. In beating to windward, ships may stand to within a mile and a half of the shore, and in the neighbourhood of Devil's Island, to half a mile. The soundings run off tolerably regular, from 8 to 12 and 20 fathoms, sand and mud, with spots of rock. The }^«*!^ ■*-A-. 'm ' /I i m 24 A BRIEF DESCRIPTION . I |i: the lines and oars, that were thrown him, pass througii his hands without an effort. Brig Rock has on it 3 feet water, about the size ot" a frigate's long boat: lies S.E.iE. from Jedore Head, and S.W. two miles and a half from Long Island; deep water all rounil it, 17, 20, to 24 fathoms. The weed on its top frequently floats to the suvt'ace. The marks are, a house and barn in Clamb Bay, just opt>n of Long Island, East end, N. 5 E. and the house on Jedore Head open to the N. E. of Jedore Rock. Polluck Shoal lies South, nine mile« from Jedore Head, is about an acre in area, and has 24 feet water on it : in heavy gales it breaks violently. The courses are all by compass and given exactly, without any allowances. m: Long Island is E. 12 S. from Jedore Head, tliree miles; to the South of it, lie several very dangerous ledges. The plan shews the depth round and between them. The ends of the Island are bold. t-; East from opposite Devd's Island, say two hundred yards, will graze Jedore Rock, and hit the body of Long Island : therefore E. by S. 1 S. will be the course to clear the ledges. From opposite the South end of Long Island, which may be rounded very close, or very distant, on account of the ledges, the KTiV4V« or NOVA SCOTIA. 25 coUrae along shore is E4S. but passing inside the ledges, the courses are various, from E. by S. to E. by N. No class of vessels have been so wretchedly conducted and commanded as English transports. Interest and security appears to liave regulated their owners, who always insured them. The object 01 the Transport Board was to hire sound capacious ships on the cheapest terms. During the late wars, agents of transports had their business on their hands, and naval commanders in charge of convoys, frequently found it necessary to place careful people from their own ships, even to the end of the voyage, to conduct the vessels of that class. The owners employed masters that would accept the lowest wages, generally Northumbrians, not remarkable for docility or skill, and the mates and crew of the same character. Such materials for navigation were provided, us these men judged suitable. From this cause may be traced a croud of evils and calamities ; and this digression was produced by the singularly providential escape of a detachment of the Nova Scotia regiment. 'I'he p(oj)le of Arachat, alarmed at their unprotected state, on the breaking out of the revolutionary war, for the most part, fled to Jedore, as a place of greater shelter, and remained there till the peace of 1777 when they lefl their improvements and returned to Arachat. Two royalist families, in 1783, settled it from South Carolina : its population is at present, 23 men, 18 women, 34 boys, 24 girls : total 95. good The lands at the head of the harbor are stony, but tolerably The inhabitants, a sober, industrious, and thriving H i ; 1 !i » 2() A KRirr DESCRIPTION' peopio, sii])sist ohitfly by coasting, and supplying tlie town of Halifiiv wilh wood, which tlu'V cut fVum tlic unoccupied hinds in the iKMgljbouiiiood. LiTTLK Hakkok, a place ot safety for small vessels, but the •lassagos loading to it require :i knowledge of the ledges, many A' which ar(! sunken, but Ixlweeii them is water sutVicient for •he largest ships. Owj/sHrad, alias Klitle Hauuoh, two leagues East of Jedore, and twelve of Halifax, possesses capacity to shelter a Heel. The passage in, is sufticienlly wide to turn into it vessels of any description : and at the anchorages, you lie land locked in 6 or 7 fathoms, mud. In chusing a birth in this Harbor, it is usual to be guided by the direction of the wind, taking the Western anchorage in S.W. gales : the Eastern anchorage in S.E. gales. Three families are settled here, who keep a few cuttle, but subsist chietiy by lishing. The Head, whence the Harbor takes its name, is round, alirupt, and very remarkable. The land and islands in the neighbourhood are ragged and \ery barren. Sun* Hahkok, alias Know i,es Hahrou, is connected with Owl's Head, by a shallow passage w ilhin the islands, navigable for the smallest class of coasting vessels. The proper entrance is deep and bold : a white clift' marked in the annexed plan may be seen at a good distance from the ofting, resembhng a ship under or NOV A scon A. 27 111 nail ; but on approaching it, appears like a topsail schooner. There ifi anchorage in any part of the harbor, good bottom ; above the narrows, a i\wX oi the largest ships may lay alongside each other, without the smallest motion. Charles River at the Head of the harbor, proceeds from a chain of lakes, at a small distance. The largest, Charlotte Lake, connects with two others, that are jouied to each other by rapitls, w hich afford exceedingly favourable positions for mills. Charlotte Lake averages one-third of a mile wide, and twelve long, nearly north and .>iouth, with an elbow bending eastward, about the middle, opposite .Jedore carrying place : the distance from Oyster-pond, does not exceed a mile and a half. The lands on both sides, are clothed with wood of a superior growth. Birch, Beech, Maple, Pine, Spruce, Hemlock, and Ash. The Pine measure in circumference, 12 feet, 0' inches; the Spruce of the same size, and the Hemlock, still larger. This lake commences from two rapids, one running north ; the other shapes its course from the north-east, falling with considerable strength, and apj)ears to connect a chain of lakes, bounded by barrens, that have been laid waste by fire. Oak of a good growth, is seen on the bank of this river, and its confluence appears to have been the resort of Indians. The track of a Moose was fresh on the beach, with evidi.-nt marks of Bears being in the neighbourhood. The western side of the entrance into this harbor, is formed . by a low rugged island, called Brier's, E. S. E. four miles from Owl's Head. I'rom this island, ledges, partly dry, extend H three-fourths of a mile eastward. When past them, vou lutiy ,,^.^ .1 38 A BRIEF DESCRIPTION range along the large island on your West side, and find excellent anchorage under its North point, 6 or 7 fathoms mud ; or proceed to Charles River, guarding against the rocks off Black Point. Ship Harhor, proper, commences about seven miles N. W. of Brier's Island, at a beach on the western shore, which has 6 fathoms close to its side. The entrance is one-third of a mile broad, widening as you ascend. Above the island called Green's, are some shoals and ledges, but the anchorages below them, are so capacious and good, there can be no necessity to describe them. There are twenty families in the harbor, and on the islands in its neighbourhood, who keep small stocks of cattle. Spars, fire-wood, water, and stock, may be had here. SiiOAL Bay, in contradiction to its name, possesses a good depth of water, with strong mud, and an excellent anchorage, which is open from either Shoul Bay, or Ship Harbor, To the northward of Charles Island, vessels lie land-locked in 7 fathoms. ) ;t A rock that always breaks, lies off the mouth of the harbor. You may pass it close on either side. The water is deep on both shores, and the anchorage shews itself as you ascend ; parts of the harbor are sufficiently bold, to admit of vessels of the largest size, lying afloat, alongside the shore : the bottom is black mud. There are seven families, consisting of 41 persons ; from them, supplies of stock, &c. may be had. II OF NOVA SCOTIA. 29 Tangier, like the preceding harbors, is formed by craggy, barren islunds, which effectually secure it against all winds: about two miles from the harbor's mouth, is a ledge that dries at low water. Anchor under the eastern shore ; the bottom is stiff mud, and the depth 4, 4i, and 5 fathoms; There are four families, very comfortably settled here, possessing good tracts of pasture land ; they follow the fishing and coasting. Pope's, abas Deane Harbor, has a ledge opposite its mouth, forming an obtuse angle with the two points, at three-fourths of a mile fruni each, with a shoal tail, extending half a mile to the southward : you can pass on either side this ledge, avoiding the shoal, off the outer Tangier Island. The best shelter is under the small island on the eastern side in 6, 7, or 8 fathoms, clay bottom. .'■,- 'rs;; ■> Ml. The North side of the same channel is called Dutch Town, from its being settled by Dutch families, whose farms are in excellent order, and bespeak great perseverance and industry. Taylor or Spry Harl)or is open to the S.E. and S.S.E. winds. > MusHABOox, an open port, with a S.R. wind,aftords shelter at its head only, in 5, (), or 7 fathoms mud. It conummicates with Sheet Harbor, by a deep and bold passage, between the main land and an island ; not a shoal or obstruction in it. You may lash your vessel to the trees, and in 30 feet water, your side touching the clift', ride secure, perfectly sheltered from all winds : the general depth is from 5 to 8 fathoms, soft bottom. ,,» There is not an inhabitant in Mushaboon ; the lands are tio barren, as to be incapable of cultivation. In going through the passage to Sheet Harbor, guard against a sunk rock in its mouth, which, from the smoothness of the water, seldom shews its position. It lies 400 yards off Banbury Island, and may be cleared by keeping the Sheet Rock open of that Island, Tl»e fishermen living in the neighbourhood are generally ready to attend, on a signal being made. Sheet Haubor derives its name from a blank cliff, on a rocky I ••; lit. OP NOVA SCOTIA. 31 island at the entrance, wearing the appearance of a sheet. Its capacity is very great, and the deep navigable waters continue to the tails, about nine miles from the Sheet Rock. The Islands fronting the harbor form several passages, through which coasters constantly pass and repass ; and atlbrd anchorage for vessels of any size. Th»! ledges outside shew thenwelves, excepting the outer one, called by the fishermen " Yankee Jack," from the circumstance of an Anjerican fisherman being drowned in its surf. In smooth water it is very dangerous : the position is shewn by the chart. Mr. (losby, of Halifax, asserts that he struck on a rocky shoul, half a mile South of Yankee Jack. I searched for it without success, yet it may exist. The sunken rock within the entrance of the harbor, two feet under water, is in the way coming in. To clear this danger, the Sheet Hock must be kept open of the island next within it, w hich lies on the Eastern side. ..Hi Sailing or turning up the harbor, give the sides a very moderate birth; the depth 5 to 11 fathoms, good holding ground. The lands at the lower part of the harbor are stony and barren, but improve towards the head of the navigation, where are two or three farms in tolerable order. f T In 1783, some loyalist families jeiu.. ' '-'s harbor: its present population is, 21 men, 22 women, 51 boys, 62 girls, total 156. .^ti^ f — ' 32 A FKIEF DESCRIPTION Tlie extensive tracts of land in this harbor granted to individuals have much returded its settlement. The parsimonious steps taken by the heirs, or agents of t . grantees, teaze and harrass the feeble attempts of the poor. Ihey drudge on, loath to quit possessions held for manv- years, yet daily annoyed by the harsh measures of their weightier neighbours. On their first settlement, they erected a church. The frame having dece.yed, they blended their labors, and prepared a new one. On raising it, they were told the attempt would end in the destruction of the building. " If they presumed to erect it, it would be burnt." The possessor of lOjCKX) acres could noi spare iwo-thirds of one, for so laudable a purpose. In September, 1815, I saw the frame in a state of decay, lying on the point forming the fork of the harbor, and at the head is a saw-mill frame, under the same circumstances, i Attempts have been made to dispossess these poor people of the sterile and barren spots they have reduced to order, by the labor of many years; and I am pained to add, they have partly succeeded. Neither the court, nor their allorney, was in possession 'if all the facts relating to the case. To remedy, or even represent the very many existing evils attending a newly settled country, would be uselei>^ and unavailing. Tiie above instance of oppression was forced upon my notice. From Sheet Harbcr to the ea&twart! is a narrow, winding, but safe channel, formed by Salisbury Island ; in the whole of which, the anchorage is secure, from 12 to 28 feet, soft mud. You can go to Beaver Harbor within tho island?; but there are several sunken ledges in the way. I ■'.V^-'V?'! OF NOVA SCOTIA. 33 Port Parker, or Beaver Harbor, is J^ig-zag passages, between islands and ledges, which may afford occasional shelter : the westernmost is Pumpkin Island, the North side of which is quite bold ; and the inside, as well as the Beaver large Island, forms an excellent smooth shelter in a southerly gale. The island to the Northward of these has in it a deep f>nd bold inlet, where a vessel might lie concealed, and as secure as in u dock. To sail into the harbor from sea, border on the Beaver Islands, giving the eastern one a quarter of a mile birth ; thence steer up N.N.W. along the side of Sutherland's Isle, leaving to the East of you the Black Rock, which is 10 or 15 feet above the sea, and deep water all round it. Proceed up, and on passing to the W'^st side of the harbor, the houses on the settlement are seen, and you may choose your anchorage, eitlier under Minx Island, or at the harbor'i head. jMOOO The bason on the West side, has in it 18 tu 20 feet water. You can lie afloat ulon<>side the beach : oiF the point of the bason, a spit extend. North, 300 yards. Four Dutch families from Malagash purchased the western side, 5000 acres, in 1798, from ihe late Captam Lawson. The property is in good order, and tljey appear to be doing well : they follow farming, fishing, and coasting. The eastern side is a part of 10,000 acres, granted to Colonel Hale, in 1769 or 70. A sniuU rapii; river empties itself into the harbor, and at the confluence, four idle families live in most 34 A BRIEF DESCRIPTION f i f * miserable hovels. They attend to cutting wood, for which they get ready cash, and the land remains unimproved. An old soldier of the Prince's regiment has been settled here 15 years, and has cleared about two acres. . . ' ' White Islands, half way between Beaver and Liscomb Harbors, appear of a light stone colour, capt with ever-green. They are about sixty feet above ihe sea level, bold on the South .side : the passage between them is safe, and you may securely anchor inside, good holding ground, 7 to 10 fathoms. From these, the rocks and ledges extend 5 or 6 miles, from East to E.N.E. — they are bold, and mostly dry : the water within them is always smooth. M, .* "K- i Bay of Islands extends from Beaver to Liscomb, a distance of fifteen miles. The islands, rocks, and ledgea, which are innumerable, are mostly seen marking the passages that lie in all directions, with great depth of water within them. 'i The eastern entrance of this labyrinth, near Li8<'omb, is Marie ET Joseph, a most excellent harbor. The settlers keep large stocks of cattle, and two coasters. The land is good, and not difficult to clear: here are three fanulies, consisting of 15 persons. NicoMQUiKQUE, asmall setdement, in the same range: a few salt marshes furnish abundant supplies of winter hay : they are a sober, industrious people. NeWtonquaddy, next East of Beaver, has seven familie.*, upon ,j;i " 4.-U Of NOVA SCOTIA. S^ the side of a shoal river, on land originally granted to Colonel Hale ; the grant embraces a part of Beaver Harbor, bebore-mentioned. The lands are good, and there is considerable marsh about the neighbourhood. The settlement consists of 10 men, 8 women, 14 boys, 20 girls, total 42. They have no title to their lands : the possessions being undefined, their disputes are endless. LiscoMB is justly considered one of the best harbors of this Province : <.omniodious, smooth, deep water, and good holding ground. Soutli, 2{ miles from Smith Point, lies the Black Prince, so called from the ship lost on it. It constantly breaks, and a part of it is uncovere^i. Smith Point runs oft shoal nearly a mile S.S.E. The island side is bold, except a single rock W.S.W. from the South end. The harbor's entrance lies about North ; and having turned Green Point, its direction is E.N.E. Opposite the first fish stage, haFa mi'e from the shore, is as good a birth as can be desired, jn 7 fathoms. Thence the harbor continues navigable 4 or 5 'lil^s, There are tM'o sunken rocks, on the North side, as ynu , ii '. The lands are rocky, and of little value. Three families u. ? mve settled, who follow fishing. A narrow passage, with about 9 feet in it, is formed by Liscomb, alias Bouden Island, leading through to\sards Jegogan. -«•■ m^ «-.(. ■•^fc.-»p«<»kp«'^rt»-^«t •■ -«*—«'—' •<«w..>-»s*t'- v«*i tv"•• sides on it. Wedge Island, alias Pierre-a-fusil, is too remarkable to be mistaken, and is an excellent guide to the harbors in its neighbourhood ; lying from the entrance of St. Mary's River, South, 2 miles ; West, 10 miles from the entrance of Sandwich Bay ; and 4 miles, E.N. E. from Liscomb harbor's mouth. The abrupt side of this island is shoreward, and the top of the chff above the sea 115 feet. Ledges lie off its S.W. end, half a mile ; and some sunken rocks obstruct the passage between it and the West point of St. Mary's. . . < South, 2i miles from the Wedge, lies a fishing bank, covering an area of 20() acres, with 20 to 30 feet on it. •: i The RivEii St. AIaiiy is rather difficult of access; a bar of sand lying across the mouth, with 12 feet water on it, which in southerly gales breaks. In approaching the river, border on the eastern shore, to avoid the middle ground, which lies outside rhe bar, and is in very low tides, dry. The passage over the bar. j 1 1 ' i '1 I .\AHq«>MtY»'<»*--^^H»Wifff*«iAi» • •m»4tt^n>^*^^ '- iiH>»iiii 111 irtifc. '"V" Tot'aaiHUiiae. A,. i» I:^__ if> $0 41 61 4*' TiiHuhHt a^tluJrt )hitttth:i AJm*!kov<1 i" M^mM . jw.aktfStuiftt i ^1; V i ' "-} h i . '] \ wm ♦ ■ ,'-,V.J...Jl,v^fJ^t.>. OF NOVA SCOTIA, .37 lies on ihe East side of a small rocky islet ; but as it is crooked, no mark can be given : the tide, which is very rapid, shews the passage. By keeping close to the islet, which is bold, you avoid a rock (covered the first quarter flood,) lying opposite to it, near the eastern shore. Thence the channel winds between mud-banks, extending from each shore which are dry at low water; the general tjopth is from 18 to 24 feet. For about four miles, it runs to ^he N. N. W. thence two miles, N. by VV. and thence N. N. W. two miles to the fork, where it separates: the western branch terminating in a bruok ; the eastern continues navigable a quarter of a mile from the separation, to the rapids. The town of Sherbrook is at the head of the river, a distance of 12 miles from the sea. Tlie easy conmiunication by water, will tend to raise the town to consideration : there are two saw-mills, a grist-mill, and about twenty houses. Wive Harboii is l)arred by a sand nearly dry : within the bar is 4 to 5 fathoms. The lands about this inlet are poor. One familv, consisting of five persons, has settled and cleared about ten acres. Indian Haumok, a shallow and unsafe creek, has good lands, well doathed with pine, maple, beech, birch, and spruce of considerable growth. There are six lakes in a chain, connected with the harbor, and extending nearly across the country to Antigonish. A family named Rude settled here in 1810, and live on the western side of the harbor : they consist of thirty persons, and have made considerable improvements, Eairt of Indian Harbor two miles and a half, within heads that I 1 i I I' 11' 38 A r.UIEr DESCRIPTION" resemble islands, lies Hollij^'s Harbor, a plane of slu'Iler lor coasters, and resorted to by fishermen. In it, are three or four settlers of the worst character, who appear to have chosen it as a retreat from justice. A river called Little Indian, empties itself at the head ; its waters take their rise upwards of twenty miles to the N. N. W. draining through several lakes, and join the sea by a considerable brook. Three miles east of this, is the Port of Bickerton, fit only for small vessels. In it are two families. The extensive indent, styled by Des Barre, Sandwich Bay» comprises several good anchorages, and one very superior harbor called Country, navigable for the largest ships upwards of twelve miles from the entrance of the bay. Both shores are bold, and the anchorage is soft mud, with from 5 to 15 fathoms depth. The lands adjoining this harbor, were granted in 1783 to the disbanded South Carolina Regiment, who, possessing neither industry nor perseverance, as soon as their provisions were consumed, left the settlement, which still remains in a state of dereliction : two or three thai continued, are now owners of very excellent properties. Sixteen families are now seated on the sides of the harbor, and above the navigable waters: the farms are in a state highly creditable to the possessors. Fifty-three bushels of potatoes, besides grain, have been planted this season by Mason, an industrious settler, who lives four miles from the navigable water, with a large family. \ .-*"' f It ■ I y 1.4 i 1 ■^ 6- 4A« RffK^Mr*' u^tvtu^-v*-*" v^i->~««*^-->M>«K^M^-fF- » l^f-*^^l^ft. ■»■*!l->^s*«*<'^^«.-< rti»' ^ »^ Til lac9$m0t -W 24 ^ .7 ** « •stent H. J., tity lU l.w. . ^ j„ Jt 6h40 34 3a' •. ii I :'f I PllUitkld « lAcAii ^irttttty A.t.tnrkwaotI l^Mni tSjS. ,m\ii)itr,ra,r/***'«*^' OP SrOVA SCOTIA. 45 The lands in the neighbourhood of Cape Canso are low and sterile, with several rocky islands to the N. E. covered as are the lands, with stunted fir trees. In consequence of the many and frequent losses of property and lives in these parts, the Government has humanely directed a light-house to be erected on the southern-most of these islands. This light will not only prevent many serious calamities, but stand as an illumined beacon, at the conjunction of severaj high roads. The timber and infant coal-trade from the northern districts will receive material benefit from it. Vessels bound to this Province, and to the Bay of Fundy, will confidently run in its parallel of latitude. The Gul of Canso will, by its means, become the common gate-way to and from the Gulph and River St. Lawrence, and it will tend to mitigate the rigors of a late or early passage to Quebec. S.E. seven-tenihs of a mile from the Cape lies the Bull, a sunken rock that generall" breaks ; and one mile E.S.E. of it, a rock said to exist, discovered by a fisherman of Canso, in 1813, but I could not, in the most diligent search^ find it. .-, . ■ \ ■t i ; Canso Harbor is well sheltered, with good ground, and suffi- cient depth for ressels of any burden. In a rough sea the dangers of the passages shew, but in smooth water it would be hazardous to enter them without a pilot. The Arachat fishermen frequent the neighbourhood : they are sober, steady men, well acquainted with the intricacies of its navigation : their vessels are schooners from fifteen to forty tons. :N 9we« , -fif^r* I .^t^Wftm *M^>".' lO'WK (^ .■p.wh. ft . ^" '*' ' '* ^^ ' 5,,,ak. .*»\*»rvn«v«««**« f.^ H*;»t>''rf---ftT"* 1 4 46 A BRIEF DESCRIPTION It i^l The course from the North passage of Caiiso Harbor to the Gut ofCanso, is N.N.W. andlo Arachat, North. ' -r Tides flow till 8 o'clock on full and change, and usually rise eight feet; the flood setting to the northward, the ebb to the southward, at about one mile and a half to two miles per hour. The Gut of Canso is formed by the lands of Cape Breton on the East, and those of Nova Scotia on the West. Its general width is a short mile, and twenty-one miles in length, with deep water from end to end. The lands are good, and the hills moderately high; rising in easy acclivities, with settlements on the whole range of the shore, for the most part in good order. From Sandy Point, which forms the western side of the southern entrance, extends a sand-flat about a quarter of a mile from the shore : thence both shores are bold, with anchorage on either side. Six miles from Sandy Point, on the West side, is Pilot Cove, affording good anchorage out of the strength of the tide, in 6 or 7 fathoms, muddy bottom. On the eastern shore are two sunken rocks, one opposite this harbor, the other a little southward of Balaches Point, both close to the shore, and may be considered a part of it. Ship Harbor, a mile above Pilot Cove, on the opposite short, is a convenient good retreat. . « . Two miles above Ship Harbor is Plaister Cove, on the same ■ "">*■: OF NOVA SCOTIA. 47 side. The white plaister cUff shews in approaching froii the southward, when opposite Pilot Harbor. This valuable quarry of gypsum appears exhaustless, and very easily wrought. Vast quantities might be exported, if conducted with spirit. At present it can only be shipped at high water. The anchorage at the mouth of the Cove is soft mud, in 4 to 10 fathoms. Opposite stands Cape Porcupine, a bold precipice of five hundred and sixty-two feet high. Here the Gut is only a quarter of a mile wide, and 35 fathoms deep, near the Cape. :l ii To the northward of Cape Porcupine, the best anchorage is on the western shore, close in. Just without the entrance lies Aubushee a small harbor, settled by people from Arachat, who are very industrious and thriving. They build a number of vessels, from fifteen to fifty tons. From this harbor a rocky flat extends in a North-westerly direction, about a mile, nearly dry. From Aubushee round the Bay called Antigonish to Cape George, the shore is flat, and free of rocks : under the Cape is good anchorage, in 7 or 10 fathoms, sheltered from westerly winds. The branches of Antigonish River rising in the interior, through many miles of as fine land as any in the Province; settled first in 1783, by the Carolina Regiment, and at present populous, and rapidly improving in agriculture. Vessels that load here with plaister, are obliged to complete their cargoes outside the river's mouth, for want of depth. f^ n?. £.'^ if i I 48 A EillF.P DESCniPTION Fj#ri Cape George to Merigomish the shore is high, bold, and straight ; without a single inlet or place to shelter the smallest description of coasters. In consequence, much inconvenience has been felt, and, I believe, some lives lost. To remedy this evil, the Provincial Government has granted a liberal sum for the erection of a pier, three miles westward of the Cape, and eighteen east of Pictou ; at a slight indent called the Barn, from a high rock, resembling a building. The pier, in its present state, shelters small vessels ; but its extension is in contemplation, which may be done, to receive vessels of large size. The whole extent is well settled ; the large barns and extensive clearances indicate favorably, both of the inhabitants and soil. h"' < Pictou Harbor, situate on the N.E. Coast of Nova Scotia, is rather a river than a harbor, with a bar across its mouth, on which, at low water, is fifteen feet; and outside the bar lies a shoal, called the middle ground, seven feet under water. The win(hnill near the town, in a line with the beach, forming the left or South side of the harbor's entrance, is the mark to clear the middle ground, as also for the deepest water. Over the bar, within the beach, the water deepens to 5, 6, and 7 fathoms, muddy bottom ; and continues that depth to the town, opposite which the mud flat extends some distance ; leaving the channel about midway between the shores. Just above the town the river divides into three branches, the East, West, and middle. Up the eastern branch, the channel, though winding, is navigable about four miles for vessels drawing fifteen feet ; a bar there crosses the river, and the coal is shipped from large flat boats. Above the bar the water runs deep, as high as New-t©w» Glasgow. The pits are nine miles from tbe town of Pictou, and OV NOVA SCOTIA. 49 arc likely to be worked extensively. The West and niiddle rivers are navigable a considerable distance, by a narrow winding channel between the mud-banks. The lands are good, and the population rapidly encreasing. Two miles North of the mouth of Pictou River lies Cariboo, a small harbor, difficult of access, but quite safs inside. Ships load here with limber, but as a pilot is absolutely necessary to enter, directions are superfluous. Opposite Cariboo Point lies a rocky shoal, halt-way across, with ten feet w ater on it ; in circumference a quarter of a mile ; round it arc 4, o, and 6 fathoms : the tide, both ebb and flood, runs rapidly over it. The ledges off Cariboo extend upwards of a mile from the shore : some of them dry. Several vessels have mistaken Cariboo for Pictou: the hollow land over the former appears a deep inlet, and Pictou high lands, folding over each other, blind the harbor. I |i .^ Isle Pictou, the property of the Honorable Sir Alexander Cochrane, contains about two thousand acres of tolerably good soil. Three families have settled on the South side, and their improvements are considerable. Fine quarries of free stone have been opened, and strong traces of coal are visible in several places, about the cliffs. Ofl' ilie East end lies a spit of rocks half a mile ; and E. N. E. four and a half miles, a shoal with 21 feet water on it. Between this isle and Merigomish, the depth is 7 to 11 fathoms, an even muddy bottom. ( o 50 A BRIEF DESCRIPTION "i! E.S.E. eight miles from Pictou, lies Merigomish ; a bar of 14 feet crosses the mouth : within, the depth is from 4 to 7 fathoms, soft mud. From Cariboo to Cape John the depth gradually lessens to the shore ; say at two miles, 8 or 9 ftithoms ; round Cape John is Tatmaoouche and River John, and a point separating these from Ramsheg Harbor. These Harbors are good, and well sheltered; but as a pilot is absolutely necessary to any vessels entering them, a full description is better avoided. Off Tatmagouche lies Amet, a low isle, from which a flat extends half a mile: thence twenty-five miles is Pug wash, a blind little harbor, with a reef or ledge at its eastern point, and at its mouth a bar of 18 feet. The pilot is in constant attendance, and no ill can accrue from passing the harbor : the mistake would exist only a league or two, as the opposite point, Tormentine would shew itself. From Pugwash to Point Tormentine is fifteen miles, which may be considered the width of Bay Verte, and its depth from this line to the confluence of the salt and fresh water at its head, is also five leagues. The shores on each side sensibly wash away, leaving chfFs at the Promontories, with flats off each, formed by the earth lost from the shore : the water gradually deepens, and the anchorage is good. Vessels of considerable burthen take in cargoes of timber up the creeks : a channel winding between the flats heis 17 to 20 feet water. ir^ The features of the North-eastern coast are soft; and pleasing ; llie land low and even, or sUghtly broken by inequalities that Hh OF NOVA SCOTIA. 51 relieve the eye. Settlements are formed and forming along the shore; and the interior, from Bay Verte to Amherst, Cumberland, Tantamaree, &c. is in a highly improved state. A rocky shoal off Point Tormentine, in shape resembling a fan, covers a large extent. The outer part, 20 feet, lies three miles from the poiia : vessels of small draught pass within it. The Straits of Northumberland, formed by Nova Scotia and New Brunswick on the South, and Prince Edward's Island on the North, is about one hundred miles in length, with a pretty general depth of water from end to end, say 10 to 16 fathoms : the bottom is a red stiff clay, good holding ground. The dangers in it are the shoal off Pictou Isle, Tormentine ledge, and the shoal to the westward of Prince Edward's : the anchorage on either side is good holding ground. I , My examination of the coast ceased here. At a future period it may be considered worthy attention. Miramichee, Gaspee, as well as the neighbouring parts, are fast lifting into consequence. li ^* TIDES. On the whole S. E. and S. W. coast, when uninfluenced, flow till eight o'clock : to the eastward rather earlier : the general ri>ie is from 6 to 9 feet. At Cape Sable the flood-tide sets up the Bay of Fundy, coinmencing that direction a little eastward of the Brazil Rock ; thence to Cape Canso, the general set of the flood is eastward, in a direction with the shore, and the ebb westward. fl ! In the Harbor of Halifax the . tide runs at an easy rate, seldom rising higher than 8 feet - The tides between Halifax and Cape Canso are not regular : they flow till near nine o'clock ; rising from 6 to 8 feet, the flood setting eastward, the ebb westward. Near Cape Canso, the flood courses northerly through the channels which lie scattered about the eastern extremity of this Province ; thence up the Bay p M 54 A BRIEF DESCmPTION "■I of Chedabucto: but its bodily strength towards the Gut of Canso, rushing through it with great rq)idity. At Cape Porcu- pine particularly, the narrowest part of the Gut, it seldom runs at a lesser rate than four or five knots : gen'^rally flowing a quarter past nine at full and change ; the ebb in a contrary direction. Along the shore, past Aubushee, Antigonish Bay, rounding Cape George, and continuing through the Straits of Northumber- land, the flood sets in a North-westerly direction, and flows till between seven and (ught o'clock on full and change: the perpen- dicular rise, from 4 to 7 feet. h ■ il i At Pictou the tide nses on the bar only 3 feet, and within the harbor 6 feet ; the cause of this irr^ularity I had not time to discover. These are the tides' natural courses, and although the times of ebbing and flowing do not materially change, they are almost coitanually varied ^y the winds. A southerly gale accelerates the ebb of the St. Lawrence, which with 'he waters of the gulf are pressed through the Straits of BeUe-isle, consequently draining the stream northerly between Cape Kay and Cape North •, as also the stream of the Gut of Canso^ which fc» many successive days runs one way. ,.. . ■ -- .■ ,<-'■ ■ ■'♦' A North-westerly gale turns the ittream southerly between Cape Ray and Cape North, and presses the water through the gut ; thence arises the uncertainty of the gut etreaoo, which continues 'frs course southerly till the level of the water is restored. Lateral « i k '*iL...^ OP NOVA SCOTIA. 65 muds have'only a partial effect; for exan^ple, a strong easterly wind arrests the ebb in its course through St. Paul's Straits, and increases the stream in either the Belle-isle Straits, or the Gut of Canso. This irregularity causes the many wrecks that happen every season in the neighbourhood of Cape North: some of them attended by circumstances truly distresidng. No tabular account can ever be given of the currents cf the Gulf St. Lawrence, and the Gut of Canso. I have strongly urged the erecting a light- house on St. Paul's Island, being convinced it would prevent a recurrence of these dismal calamities. When it is considered that the rivers of the Mediterranean are considerable, and most probably supplied from it, and also the vast exhalations that take place from a sheet of water sur- rounded by high lands, concentrating and attracting the whole force of the sun's rays, the rush of water eastward through the exceeding narrow pass, the straits or Gut of Gibraltar, is no longer surprising: nor is it necessary to resort to the imaginary under- .^tream, to expend the influx. The secretion of the waters exhaled continues a considerable time, and when discharged, they are diffused over the face of the earth. I mean the marginal soil of the Mediterranean. Speaking of the motion of the waters, this extraneous remark is given to remove the doubts which (without reason) are enter- *Tin€d of the moon's influence. These doubts generate in the irregularities observed in some places, that may be traced to peculiar causes. i ,. I 56 A PRlPi? PE5CBIFTT0N LATITUDES AND LONGITUDES. : I J 'I . Halifax, Naval Yard Light-house Green Island, Mahone Bay Aspatagoen High Lands Cape Lc Hcve Liverpool Light-house Little Hope IMaud Shelburne Ligiit Cape Negro Brazil Rock Cape Sable South Seal Island Cape Fourchu Brier's Island Light Grand Manan, South end North Manan, S. E. ledges Gannei Rock Shut-in Island Jedore Head Southernmost Jedore ledges Owl's Head , . . . . Cape Spry Liscomb Harbor entrance Wedge Island Green Island, Country Harbor. . . Berry Head, Torbay White Head, Whitehaven Bull Rock, Cape Canso Canso Light, Cranberry Island . . Sandy Point, South entrance, Gut. North entrance of Canso Gut, or > Ship Harbor ) Pictou Island, North end South end Pictou Harbor Sable Island, East point West point 14 44 44 44 44 44 43 43 43 43 43 43 43 44 North. 40 )7 128 cO 25 20 33 12 48 4 48 57 40 30 33 50 25 30 27 40 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 44 44 28 52 19 44 35 SO 44 52 50 44 37 4C 44 35 30 37 24 40 38 42 45 46 30 56 57 55 6 5 45 42 West. 65 32 5 63 30 30 63 58 40 63 59 64 16 64 34 50 64 46 43 65 8 65 15 40 65 22 65 .33 65 57 301 66 9 66 20 40 66 55 30 66 46 66 40 66 51 10 63 15 30 63 7 50 62 59 30 63 48 37 62 31 30 61 54 40 12 12 i 19 50 21 31 51 48 30 41 5 2 Var.W 17 28 16 12 lo 14 14 30 14 27 301 61 47 61 30 61 18 61 9 60 58 30| 60 58 61 )5 61 29 62 28 30 62 34 10 62 40 60 3 60 30 15 16 20 17 32 17 10 17 17 7 40 16 16 18 40 20 19 40 TIDES, 8 8 15 7 58 55 50 Rise. 7 50 7 45 8 15 9 10 8 20 8 30 8 37 8 40 8 50 9 9 .30 9 7 to 9 feet. 5 7 6 8 t 5 7 , 5 8 6 9 6 12 12 14 14 18 6 9 5 7 6 9 6 9 6 9 4 7 6 9 8 30| 8 10 The mean increase ectimated from all the old variations given, make 6' annually. l\ OF NOVA SCOTIA. m Having commenced at the capital of the Province, and described the coast eastward, it is expedient to proceed with the harbors West of Halifax. Ketch Harbor, a small barred inlet, N. N E. of the light, has 9 feet water at the entrance : inside are 3 and 3i fathoms. Twenty families, consisting of a hundred and twelve persons, are here settled, who get a comfortable subsistence, by supplying the market of Halifax with fish : they are a sober, industrious people. Sambro Harbor is a league North-westward of the light-house, easy of access, and perfectly sheltered, with sufficient depth for any vessels. The coasters of Nova Scotia resort hither in bad weather : frequently are collected from forty to fifty small vessels in this retreat. In 1780 this harbor was setiled; it now has thirty-one families, in all a hundred and fifty-five persons, who are fishermen. The lands are barren, incapable of improvement, except a few spots on which are raised a scanty supply of vegetables. Ships, making the land, by mistake, to the westward of the light, or in foggy weather, being within the ledges, may, by the annexed chart, run into Sambro, or between the light-house and Chebucto Head. Those having charge of ships which frequent Halifax, should know this passage: several vessels have been lost, that by a knowledge of it would \vA\e been saved. Ii'^ 1 f 1 I ■ t Pennant Harbor, round the low point next West of Q i ■ r^ter-. ■ ii! 58 A BRIEF DESCRIPTION' Sambro, has good anchorage, but is seldom visited. The islands contiguous, are bold, and afford within them safe anchorage. i< m::. The other small harbors and indents I have not yet had time to examine : should the survey be continued, they will be added at a future period. Prospect Harbor lies within several small islands, and presents to the eye of a stranger the rudest features of nature. It is extensive and safe ; and in bad weatlier (the only time vessels of consequence would enter it) the dangers shew themselves. The inhabitants, twelve families, have seated themselves on the left side of the harbor's entrance, on two small islands, forming a little cove, in which they have erected their stages, and cure about two thousand quintals of cod-fish, besides mackarel, herring> and gasperaux. Shag Bay and Blind Bay, two deep inlets in the same indent, both possess excellent anchorage: they are situated twenty miles W. N. W. of the light-house. On the western side of the entrance of Blind Bay are the islands forming the Port of Dover, a very safe and good anchorage. The best passage is to the eastward of these, giving them a moderate birth, and anchor within the body of the largest islai.ci, called Taylor's or Inchkeith, in 7, 9, or 10 fathoms, muddy bottom. The lands between Halifax Harbor and Dover are craggy, broken, and barren ; the shore iron-bound and steep, scarcely a OF NOVA SCOTIA. 59 tree to be seen, in the whole distance of twenty miles. Yet in the memory of several persons living this naked tract was clothed, except the outermost projections, with a growth of fir, spruce, hemlock, birch, and beech. The fire getting into the woods at the dry season of the year, and impelled by the wind, spread over the greater part of Halifax township, consuming an immense body of valuable wood, to the great injury of the inhabitants. The wooden fences on the peninsula were destroyed, and Halifax depended, for hay and other supplies of ground provisions, on Massachussets. It was this necessity, stimulated by a bounty on stone fences and English hay, raised on the peninsula, that introduced regular inclosures, and ultimately reduced to order, the lands about the town. The line of coast above-mentioned abounds in fish, and the little ports and harbors are most conveniently situated for the fishery. Great quantities of cod, herring, and mackarel, are annually sent to market, chiefly cured. Margaret's Bay is about twenty-five miles in circumference, in length nine, and two miles wide at the entrance. In this beautiful sheet of water are harbors capable of receiving ships of the line, even against the sides of the shores. On the West side of the entrance, about South from S.W. Island, distant one mile and a half, lies a ledge, part of which is above the water, shelving on all sides, and in bad weather the sea breaks on it very heavily. Opposite South-M est Island to the E. N. E. lies a rock with 24 feet on it. This rock cannot be i \ n 1 I 60 A BRIEF DESCBiPTIOSr I »;'! I i^ !*■ : + !i;, ■ ,it t i s :' I'- deemed a danger, the sea breaking on it m bad weather; the only season the heaviest class of ships could possibly strike it. South-west Island is a body of rock, say 50 feet high, and bold-to on all sides : the passage is good between the Island and Owl's Head : the latter is an abrupt precipice. North-west Harbor is a tolerable anchorage for small craft : the fishermen inhabiting this nook are well circumstanced, and consist of eight families. They occasionally trade to the United States. From the North-west Harbor thi3 western shore of the bay continues bold and rugged. A small rock very close to the shore, above Birch Head, with 6 feet water on it, is the only detached danger. Long Cove is a good anchorage, with the wind westward : a saw-mill is driven by an excellent stream, supplied by two lakes, handy to the shore: but owing to the fire ranging the woods, a scarcity of timber is felt. Three miles northward of Long Cove, and nine miles N. N. W. from S. W. Island, is Hubbert's Cove ; by keeping the western shore on board may be entered by a stranger, and a ship dis- masted or in distress may find a perfect shelter in this recess, and if without anchors, may run on the ground in safety. A cooper, carpenter, and fisherman, are here very comfortably seated, and the ground, capable of tillage, is in excellent condition, and very productive : a saw-mill was last autumn erected on a m- OP NOVA SCOTIA 61 favorable seat at the neck of the upper lake, and from thence the timber is drawn by oxen to the sea. Hubbert's Ledge is a ridge of rocks, about a hundred fathoms in length, and covered at high water, so that in smooth water and the top of the tide, this danger is hidden ; but both shores con_ tiguous to the cove being bold, the ledge is avoided by bordering on either side. From thence eastward to the North-east corner of Margaret's Bay are several indents, with rugged points project- ing ; from these places, the small vessels take building-sand and lime-stone, which is here in abundance, and the latter of a superior quality. Cooper's and Indian Rivers are both shallow and rocky nooks, although great resorts for salmon. The trout in the lakes above, are in vast quantities ; in* length from seven to thirteen inches, delicate to the taste, and the fish of a deeper red than salmon. f !; Moser Islands are sheep-folds lying in the way to Head Harbor, an anchorage of the first order, and so perfect a place of safety that a fleet might be securely moored side-by-side, unaffected even by a hurricane. The lands are high and broken. Mason's Point is in itself a good farm, well worked, and stocked by strong cattle. There are in this neiglibourhood ten families, whose habitations are snug, warm, and crowded with healthy children. ^* French Cove may be considered an extensive dock, easy of access, and the depth 5, 7, 8, 10 fathoms, mud bottom. Germans inhabit this settlement, whose farms, houses, barns, and vessels, shew their persevering industry in a favorable view. R ^ ■i f: II ^' * li ':*^, ()2 A BRIEF DF.SCRiPTIO>f i; : A shoal witli 10 feet water on it, lies opposite the mouth ot French Cove, at a distance of two milrs ; but as the islands on the eastern shore are bold, a vessel seeking shelter can have no business wide of either side. JoUiman's Island is a valuable sheep-fold, and under the lee, the anchorage is safe for ships of any size. Luke's Island is the property of an Acadian, who keeps on it about eighty sheep: this is also a compleat break to the sea, and tlie anchorage North-eastward of it is smooth in all seasons, Hagget's Cove and Indian Harbor are fit only for fishing vessels. ■J' ll Shut-in Island is two hundred and eight feet high, covered with wood, and bold to. A ledge 9 feet under water lies between Patty's Point and the South end of the Island. In a southerly gale the water is smooth in the island's lee, and the depth from 10 to 14 fathoms, good bottom. T v • A sunken rock lies off the second point South-eastward bC Patty's Point, distant about three hundred yards; but this danger lies outside the bay. ..,.,; ^. i; ,, The course from Dover or Inchkeith Island, to the eastern point of the bay, is W. N. W. three miles, along a rugged steep shore, against which the sea breaks violently. The high lands of Haspotagoen are very conspicuous, on the isthmus separating Margaret and Mahone Bays : they may be seen seven or eight 4 '.li \: OF NOVA SCOTIA. 63 »!Ji leagues. Iniriediiitely below is the small harbor and settlement of Haspotagoon. South, two miles from the western point of Charlotte Bay, a ledge shews itself; and W. N. W. of it, near Mahone Bay, another, called Sea-ledge. They are always uncovered or breaking, and therefore never dangerous with a good look-out. Maiioxk Bay, next West of Margaret's, is equally extensive, though differently formed. At its entrance are some dangerous ledges, and several small islands, forming commodious harbors, as well as convenient places for fisheries. At the head of the bay, the town of Chester was settled in 1760, by thirty families from New England, consisting of a hundred and forty-four persons ; they brought with them their stock and cattle, and went mdustriously to work in clearing the ground, and enclosing their clearances. The small islands at the head, enable tliem to keep a number of sheep, and present as fine scenery as the imagination can paint. In 1 734, a few loyalist families came hither with some property, but unacquaik.ted with farming, they expended their money on buildings and unprofitable pursuits. Discouraged and disap- pointed, most of them abandoned the settlement, and returned to the United States. -*( There are two grist, and two saw-mills : good seats for many others are formed of the two principal ri^ers that fall into this bay. Several schooners and square-rigged vessels have been W' II 64 A BRIEF DESCRIPTION built at this port, which abounds in every wooden material for ship building. '.] w M ')^- ' Approaching the bay from the eastward, the first land is Green Island, round, small, bold, and moderately high. Thence to Ironbound and Flat Islands, is about two miles and three quar- ters, both bold : passing between, proceed to the Tancooks, which are settled; the passes between them are bold, and the anchorage good under the lee, in 7 to 12 fathoms. Sailing the bay towards Chester, the only danger is a ledge, partly dry, about two miles northward of Great Tancook. The islands off the town, make the harbor quite smooth and secure ; the depth from 2 to 5 fathoms. Westward of Great Tancook, are two shoals, one with 6 feet on it, a mile and a half W *^. W. of the little islet on the N. W. side of Tancook ; the otht ine- third of a mile off the western point of the island. The Bull rock uncovered at one-third ebb, lies a mile and a half South of Tancook, and three-fourths of a mile West of Flat Island; deep water all round it. ... Chester Church, open of Great Tancook, carries you clean to the westward of this rock, down to the two Duck Islands, which are small, low, and tolerably bold ; between them 10 to 14 fathoms. From these Islands to the head of Mahone Bay, along the western shore, are several places of perfect security for vessels of the line. Lunenburg was first settled in ] 753, by Dutch and Germans, I OF NOVA SCOTIA. 66 li'uiisported to ihis country, the two preceding years, at the expence of government. They consisted of two hundred families, amount- ing to fifteen hundred persons, and were supphed with farming tools, and materials for building. One thousand pounds was expended in stock and cattle ; the government maintained them for three years, and till 1762, considerable supplies of flour and grain were annually sent them. At this period, two vessels only were owned by the settlement ; but encouraged and supported, they discovered an active spirit of industry, which has met with deserved success: most of them are comfortably settled, and many of them opulent. Vessels of different descriptions are now con. stantly plying between this settlement and Halifax, carrying to market, chord-wood, lumber, hay, cattle, stock, and all kinds of vegetables. The population may be computed at four thousand two hundred souls. The harbor is easy of access, with anchorage to its head. Keep mid-channel between the island at the mouth, and the eastern point. When within the island, border on either side, to avoid a sunken rock lying in the middle, three feet under water. The best passage to turn in is the western. Alongside the wharves are 12 and 13 feet water; close off them, 20 to 24 feet soft mud. Cross Island, containing two hundred and fifty-three acres, in height about 30 feet, lies at the entrance of Lunenburg, the property of Mr. Smith, by purchase : he resides on the N. E. side, in a small nook where coasters lie secure. The Hounds, a ledge of rocks, lie off the N. E. part, across the channel. The West and South sides of the island are bold, and South two miles from the South end, is an excellent fishing bank, from 14 to 17 fathoms. > 'i M 66 A BRIEF DESCRIPTION In ascending the bay, opposite the Ovens, which are hollow cliffs on the western side, lies a rock with 12 feet on it, called the Sculpin, about half way across. This place is much exposed to South-easterly gales. Lr Heve granted in 1760 to two hundred and sixty proprietors from Connecticut, few of whom attempted to settle ; those who did, remained about a month, and then quitted their situations. The lands have since been re-granted to sundry persons, Germans and others, who have increased in population and improvement. They have erected fifteen saw, and two grist mills ; several square rigged vessels have been laden here for the British market, with birch, beech, and pine timber, spars, hand-spikes, capstern-bar«, and plank, both oak and pine. <> The land about the harbor, is high and very stony, covered with spruce, birch, beech, pine, and hemlock of a large growth. Above the navigable waters, the lands are very good, and some farms in neat and excellent order. Ji From Lunenburg to the island called Iron-bound, at the eastern entrance of Le Heve, the shore is bold, and the distance about twelve miles ; on this island a family resides ; from thence to the bar of the river is about four miles, N. W. and the depth 12, 10, 8, 6, and 4 fathoms, and under the islands at the western side good sheltered anchorage. On the bar is twelve feet, and the deepest water one third across from the eastern shore. When over the bar, the water deepens to 4 and 6 fathoms, continuing navigable to the falls which are twelve miles higher. The general width of the river is half a mile : the road from Lunenburg to Liverpool strikes the bank about eight miles up, and a ferry boat I OF NOVA SCOTIA. 67 skteada for the convenience of treveller§. On the western point, above the bar, may be seen the remains of a French fort, built in 1737. Cape Le Heve, is an abrupt chff, 107 feet above the sea* W. by S. eighteen leagues from the entrance of Halifax. One mile S. E. by S. from tlie Cape, lies the Black Rock, ten feet high, and one hundred feet long, with deep water round it, and 10 to 14 fathoms deep from the shore. From the Cape westward to Cape Met way, the land is broken and craggy, forming a deep bight ; behind Cape Le Heve is what Des Barres calls Palmerston Bay, at the head of which is Petit Riviere, a settlement formed bjr the French. The waters of the river take their rise a con- »i(ierable distance in the country. The farms of this settlemenjt are in excellent order. Port Mbtwat, between Cape Le Heve and Liverpool, iw considerable, botli in its uuvigable capacity and its consequence as a tisliery. The five mills turned by the river annually cut six hundred thousand feet of timber, and find a ready sale for it. This place was settled about the same time as the neighbouring harbors, and under similar circumstances. In July, 1817, there were fifty families, or two hundred and seventy-six persons. The entrance is marked by the hill of the western head, and the low ragged islands on the eastern side: the width seven- eighths of a mile, from 5 to 14 fafchows deep, and the bottom even. IS") S. W. led^ lies from the Frying Paji Island SIE. three ■ma I'! I-'; I . V f -. •-..^. ■*»«£, •■'rW^itv^-aiM 'WAtv *•:•« .»».*%-»#i i^Wcv ■•«" !'<•- *^--'' -«»». *rv.^*w.».w*\T**j«.**r.jiit' .VW^NOlV.- ■•».*. ■t'4"''*»««»^. 'i-^i* 68 A BRIEF DESCRIPTION quarters of a m;l'e : it bveak§ in rough wf;ather : the least water oa it is 19 feet. •■ ' . The Stone Horse, a rock dry at low water, is E. \}^ S. one- thirii cr a mile from S. W. breaker. Opposite Neil's Point the anchorage is good : the mud-banks from thence narrow the channel, where a pilot is necessary. The tide runs with strength, and flows forty-five minutes past seven at full and change. '; ' ' , ' ' ' . LivEUPOOL entrance lies W. by S, twenty-five leagues from Sambro Light-house, and W. S. W. j W. fourteen miles from Cape Le Heve. An island called Coffins, and the western shore, form a d^ep bay, affording good anchorage for large ships, with the wind off shore: the depth from 5 to 14 fathoms, clear bottom. On the South end of the island a light house is erected, and was for the first time lighted in June, 1816. The light revolves every two minutes, and may be seen at a good distance, Liverpool Light-house was begar^ 30th May, 1811, compleatcd 31st December, 1815. y, '^y a. •.. Diameter at the base . Height * Lantern's Diameter Height . . Total Height . . . 28 feet. 50 , 17 i Jit. 12 ■. .^'jff«!* 75 .;'■'» .■ * Tlie town was settled in 1760: in 1762 the settlement con- •mitfm*' j—f' if^^ftitm'iaihi^sKmum-^'-'' -s«,««.»«^'-*»». ■ 1(11*^1 «^1»« .>*• Tp /aeeptufe 08. If- ■ "* -t^ta.. I - -I at 3g J< o \^ >V "^^^^"^ I ^v^' '^^ (!| •'• »^ J« J? .t(f J5 34 ■44 .nK, 4, and 5 tathom? i^ep. The passage on the West side of Cape Negro Island is full of rocks and ledges. Yet m desperate casc,«, (such as being in a disabled state, and caught by a S. E. gale,) it may be attempted, as the dangers shew themselves. In such circinustanccs, indeci- sion or timidity would produce, certain destruction. The com- mander's post should be aloft, and, if not posscrsing confidence, he should affect it. I -# ^1 ^v^:. -*»u IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1.1 E lit ^" £ Itt 12.0 11-25 III 1.4 U4 Hiotographic Sciences Corporation ^"^ 23 WIST MAIN STUnV WIUTIR.N.Y. 14SI0 (71«)t72-4S03 •^"^ %i ^^^ r '£r,'- .,:..'.t,.:,„:^ A BRIEF DESCRIPTION' Clyde River, descending twenty-eight miles from a chain of lakes, that extend £. N. £. and W. S. W. a considerable distance in the interior, falls into the head of this harbor. ■vi-«T .;•*«., r V i iv-;^ *■"• V The lands adjoining, were settled by a few families from Cape Cod in 1775, and at present, the population is four hundred and sixty-thi'ee persons. They combine farming and fishing with greater success than in any other part of the province, and raise considerable stock. Port Latour, separated from Cape Negro Harbor by a peninsula, is a shoal, ledgy, and bad harbor, capable of sheltering small craft only. The tide leaves a great part of the head cf it dry. The lands about it are barren, and a little marsh assists to support the families at its head, who by dint of industry and great labour, have cleared ten or twelve acres. Barrington lies immediately within Cape Sable, and was originally settled by twelve French families, who cleared two hundred acres. In 1760, the lands now constituting the town- ship, were granted to two hundred proprietors from the neigh- bourhood of Cape Cod ; and in 1763, one hundred and sixty families had arrived, and brought with them their stock aiKl fishing vessels. The village of Barrington was laid out, and the settlement assumed the pleasing appearance of prosperity. In 1784, arrived a few respectable loyalist families, whose knowledge of agriculture tended much to improve the place. The lands are stony, but afford excellent pasturage, enabling the inhabitants to keep a large stock of cattle. They have within their reach every Mccessary of life, and many of its luxuries* . j ^ ^ 5fJv ^'■, ■:f. «* M*. , x»w¥«il¥t* -»«*'. i ^m- ■■<■• - ■ ■ }:■ "I ili !i 4 it .# ;^-'^>''r> I «•■ * ■I- »:i!,' Wk U: r\ * ■ 'J: .ifc I -„-s-^>4i«*§-v.3i(S! !%■ .« Ill I m v. ' . •'■.■^' . - ' J! • i* ■^•v . ^\tf^4t'^-^it^'^'',*-*if^ . , Ai '4'''' •^>* ' ^■'**' .. ■ . M*i-|>5i^.i.<-'.''>V; -t^iJ.vr-^i-^-v.y ■ ^i^'h'*.'^^:'^'/^''■M'^^^^^^^^''^'^ Hu- ^1^ i" ^ I OF. NOVA SCOTIA. W-'iSi^ . -^■' Cape Sable Island contains 2600 acres, a great part of which \ ^V';;:»f? is under tillage. It has forty-seven families on it, who live in greatt comfort; many of them in good circumstances. , y, ':,-^^%yW The population of Barrington township is l62 men, 163 women, ' ;; ^. v; ./ ; 329boys, 333 girls: total 987. ; .^f .,!■,.; It • ..• . ; ' The harbor is choaked by sand flats that extend . nearly from, ;. .side to side. The channel winds between them, and affords safe ^: anchorage in 18 to 26 feet. In S. W. gales there is good shelter on the N. E. side of Capo Sable Island in 4 to 5 fathoms, sandy . bottom. \ -'■•■- ' ■ ' ■ - - ' * , • f ■ . ' 'I The passage leading into the Bay of Fundyis milchused by I coasters, who know its intricacies. The tide of ebb is forceu .• \ unnaturally through to the eastward, by tliei l^ay tide, at the rate of 3, 4, and sometimes 5 knots. ^li'^ xJ^h?.-vrt: it'^-M^ ,,:-■-■ ■ "--'v • ■• - ■ ' i^ •• 9 • "• '^- ■.*K-^v ,«'«'■■ Off Barrington Bay and E. 17 S. nine miles from Cape Sable, I j lies the Brazil Rock, covering an area of about ten yards. I ^|'^ ^■-f \'r examined it in a perfectly calm day, and sounded it with a 32 feet pole. A tail extends ninety or a hundred yards from its base, ■ * ) '•♦with from 6 to 8 fathoms water. The tide running strong over Uiis, causes a great ripjjlc, and makes the rock appear larger th».n it really is. The soundings towards the shore are regular, ^om 15 to 19 fathom;:!; but to the southward of the rock you fah^nto ^2y 30, and 35 fathoms, say at the distance of one mile. Betweu, c^g 5.,y^ y^j [3^..j2Jj ^^^ j^.^^^, 17, 20, and 24 fathoms, sandy boi,,^v»^ ' ■ - -i.' ::?-.•, • '^- ■■ .... H?^'^'^^- ,V 1«- \ /'^^ •t t \. »V, •P' sv.- 'i^m m ^i '>^'^ ■:?*€ / >-^. ^. »>^- t8 A BRIEF DESCRIPTION Cape Sable is a small low sanay island (distinct from the island before-mentioned,) with a few scrubby trees in a state of decay, on its eastern extremity. The cliffs are white, dis- tinguishable at the distance of five leagues, but are broken and sensibly decreasing. In 1760, by Mr. Des Barres' account, they were one hundred and twenty feet perpendicular, and when this survey was taken, the highest was only sixty-one feet : they range W. N. W. and E. S. E. two miles in the shape of a half-moon, convexing northerly: and off each point is a ledge ; the eastern called the Horse-shoe, extending two miles and a half S. E. by S. the M'estern, or Cape Ledge, runs off three miles, formed by detached bodies of shingle and rock. The tide, both ebb and flood, sets immediately across them ; the flood westward, the ebb to the N. E. by its rapidity causing a strong break to a consider- able distance from the shore. It is essential to the safety of those navigating the Bay of Fundy that it be clearly described and distinctly understood. To that end much labor has been bestowed : the vessels and boats kept constantly and actively at work, and even lives ex- pended, by pressing the work with a degree of ardor necessary to its execution. .U+(f.v.i*.- The Charts are made upon a scale sufficiently large to shew all the dangers and the intricacies of the channels ; that in cases of necessity places of safety may be resorted to without a pilo'* although no man, having charge of a vessel of consequence *^^ justify the economy of saving pilotage on a coast y/^^re r^rents, fogs, and changes of weather may confound the b^st ji»'g»ne"t. A^' '/- ■ / /' ■ 'SN>M:'St«»*l^>^;^ OF NOVA SCOTIA. 79 II d ix- The description will, if attentively read, remove from the minds of strangers the hideousness with which fancy and ignorance have gloomily clothed this excellent portion of America. Two large ships from Europe were wrecked within a few days of each other, on the S. W. coast of Nova Scotia ; and many others, recently accounted for in the same way, sanctions the received ill opinion, without producing the precaution necessary to prevent a recurience of such losses, arising from the most palpable and unpardonable negligence. I instance a few, and pledge myself for the verity of the statement : the authors of these calamities tvill doubtless avoid a recognizance, as the mention of them is to excite caution, and not to involve the parties in any further consequences. A valuable coppered ship, with light airs of wind drifted on the rocks, although the tishing lines were in use at the time, and one of them attended by a principal officer of the ship : the breakei-s heard, and the depth known : in the last extremity, a kedge anchor let go. The idhip bilged, and the passengers landed safe. On a point from which soundings gradually deepen to a con- siderable distance, say forty miles, a large coppered ship ran, and having landed her passengers, was sold as usual, for the BENEFIT of the underwriters. % ,ii m ^e ship ran upon a beach, and the crew landed without wetting their feet. A deep laa»^ i,rig boUnd to Passamaquoddy in August, 1817, :sailea \hrough tiiv Manan outer ledges, and ran above the dry led^e -wi^n the Tu^e Islands: the percussion drove her oft \, \ X. # I'L-.' ' III 80 A BRIEF DESCRIPTIOK and having anchored, the crew landed to enquire what part of the coast they were upon. A ship from Jamaica grounded on the beach within the Mutton Islands, West of Cape Sable ; having passed ledges between which a skilful pilot would scarcely venture. After receiving information from the inhabitants what port they were in, they hove off, and proceeded to Hahfax, the place of their destination. These happened within a short period, and numerous other instances might be adduced, to prove how little the lead is used, which ought to be constantly kept going in approaching the coast. The necessit}' of frequently sounding with the deep-sea lead, and the expediency of having anchors and cables ready for immediate use, cannot be too strongly urged, or too often repeated. Vessels well equipped, and perfect in gear, wrecked in moderate weather with anchors stowed as in the middle of the Western Ocean, bound into the Pacific, has happened so frequently that such gross idleness cannot be too much reprobated. The serious losses that have thence lately occurred to the underwriters will tempt them to give this little work currency. , vib^'^. Seal Island lies W. by N. twenty-one miles from Cape Sable, ill. length two miles North and South. The Sonthern part in covered .with scrubby trees, elevated thirty feet above th*' sea. This being the elbow of the Bay of Fundy, presents an ^'xcellent^ position for a light-house. South of the Island's Sc^"^ ^^d, X/o miles and seven-tenths, is a rock uncovered s** ^^^'^ wate^ on which His Majesty's Ship Blonde was lost'" 1777; i* has 7, 9, and 10 fathoms round it. The overf-»s, a mile U the west- .irt-.. .,.«« ■/. I il X OF NOVA SCOTIA. ^1 Wttfd of the Blonde, are heavy and dangerous : in a calm, the sloop Examiner lost her bowsprit and nearly swamped. These break and present an alarming spectacle. North of this, four miles, lies a bed of shoal ground (without the tuskets,) on which is 16 feet : this causes a violent ripple. r , j <, The American fishermen resort to the island for wood and water : the former they obtain in abundance from the frequent wrecks ; the latter is supplied from a large pond in the centre. Five low ragged islands, between four and five miles N.E. from the seal, are frequently called the North Seals, though known to the fishermen as Mud Islands. Between them and Seal Island the passage is good for any ship. Large vessels should keep within one mile of Seal Island, as the overfalls, eighteen feet, lie a short mile from Mud Island. Soldier's Ledge, bare at half ebb, lies N. W. of the South Mud. Devil's Limb is seen at all times : the Limb's limb at half tide. The smoothest anchorage is within these rocks, in 4 to 5 fathoms, clear sand. Wild fowl and fish are here in abundance. On one of these Islands some thousands of Pettrels or Mother Cary\ chickens, annually hatch their young. They uurrow under gr«Hind diagonally, three or four feet deep, and sit on one 1^ ; flitting about the surface in astonishing numbers, searching foi food, and ca^t a sickly foetid effluvia. Many naturalists have attri^ted to this Wle. winged mariner the property of breeding Its yoih^ on the vttk^r, by delivering its egg, and diving to catch ;t under thp ving, whence the young one is saiW to come. \ If X .^ ^^- ■ V -^"■'TTIHir^ 89 A BRIEF DESCEIPTION PuiiNico, though little known, is an excellent ship harbor, easy of access, and so situated that vessels entering the Bay of Fundy in distress, may find shelter and supplies. From the South end of Seal Island to the entrance of this port, the course is N. 51 E. twelve or thirteen miles, 20 to 16 fathoms deep; in entering the harbor, the depth is 7 to 12 fathoms up to the beach, the proper place of anchorage for a stranger. Above the beach, on the western side, lies a ledge, partly dry at low water. • . _ t The population of Pubnico is forty-four men, forty-five women, one hundred and nine boys, and eighty-seven girls. Two miles South of Pubnico entrance is St. John's Island, from the outer part of which, to the beach in Pubnico, the course is N. N. E. two miles and a half. Under the island's North side, the shelter is good in S. E. gales, and small vessels lie round the beach forming its East part. Coasters use the passage within St. John's, the Mutton, and Bonne-portage Islands, by Cockerwit: thence towards Barrington by Shag Harbor ; but none of these places merit particular notice, being generally shoal. >/ Cape Forchu, or Forked Cape, forming an apparent entrance, may be mistaken for the passage into Yarmouth, which is eastward of this Cape. The harbor is safe, but of mean capiH-'ity^witii sunken rocks in the entrance. The fair way is on the ^^mtttf* shore, till opposite the point on the East side : at the top of tAis point or isthmus, stands the battery : undf« its lee, or P the northward, is the anchorage, in 5 or 6 fafc^omsi good groi^d. Cape Fouchu Harbor and ITarmouth are^ne and the '!:| / OF NOVA SCOTIA. 85 *ame, although in Des Barres' charts they are separated, and by a palpable error, Jebogue is called Yarmouth. The town of Yarmouth is above this anchorage upwards of a mile, and is respectable : the houses are large, but scattered ; the people generally in good circumstances, and the vast increase of population proves the country's resources good. The land in the township exceeds a hundred thousand acres ; three thousand are marsh, one thousand dyked, two thousand undyked: the upland improved, may be ten thousand. The yearly produce of hay is upwards of five thousand tons. In 1791, thirty years after the first settlers came hither, there were in the township 215 houses, or 1300 souls. In 1808, there were 340 houses, 2500 souls. In I8I6, there were 450 houses, 3237 souls. V o :i From Cape Fourchu to Point Jegogan is S. I W. the low-land between forms a deep indent ; thence to Cape St. Mary's, the land gradually runs high, the Cape being- the highest ; from Cape Fourchu to Cape St. Mary's is nineteen miles, N i E. \ Green Island and the Gannet rock lie off Cape Fourchu ; the latter ten m»les distant, is bleached by bird's dung, and thirty-six t»et above the d\g, at high water. Some vile copies of Des Barres ma>k it as appealing at half tide, and the Admiralty charts have copied this error. His Majesty's Brig Opossum, in 1816, struck o* a ledge that app^rs at half ebb, S. W. of the Gannet, two miles, many vessels wit^ their crews have suffered on it. \ \.. f» \ \ «PF 84 A BftlEF f>ESCRIPTIONr The course from Seal Island up the bay, to sail wettward of this ledge is N. N. W. fourleen miles. West of this danger the tide sets North and South, from two to four miles per hour : close to it, it courses W. N. W. and E. S. E. From Cape Sable to ^jass between Seal and Mud Islands, steer N. W. by W. seven leagues. In this distance are several overfalls from 7 to 15 fathoms, gravelly bottom. These in spring tides break violently. The North end of the Seal Island is bold to one cable's length, 7* 8, 10 fathoms : the opposite side of the channel has a shoal bank in it, on which some ship of war struck in 1796. Trinity lies S. W. by W. six miles from Cape St. Mary's, and S. by W I W. sixteen miles from Cape Fourchu : this danger covers a small space, say three-fourths of an acre, and three small rocks shew themselves in low tides : the stream runs forcibly over them: the anchorage in their neighbourhood is tolerably good to stop one tide : the depth is 12 to 15 fathoms for one mile roimd it. Lurcher lies W. N. W. from Cape Fourchu fourteen miles, has 12 feet on it, and covers an area of three acres with spots of shoal ground ; distinct from it a mile to the N. E. From Cape Sable to Tusket passage is N. by W- twenty-seten miles ; from Gape Sable, southward of all thes^* West thirty-f;*e miles : the bay is then open, and the cours** "P N. N. W. fhis course will clear the Lurcher, which i*- the outer dang«^; but tl»e tide will make one point differ<*ice in the course, as it sets S. E. and N. W. through the Mt'J' ^^^ Tusket !slan<*» «wl near / i y OP NOVA SCOTIA. ^•5 the Manan ledges ; the ebb W. S. W. and flood E. N. E. at a great rate, say four knots. From Seal Islands up to Cape St. Mary, the soundings extend twenty and thirty leagues off: but West of Brier's Island and near Manan ledger, there are 60, 80, and 100 fathoms, at three or four miles distance ; therefore in doubtful cases the lead should be kept going, i i ■. . . - • Within the Seals, that is, to the North-eastward of them, lie u vast number of Islands, known by the general name of Tuskets, some of them large ; with good, although intricate passages leading to the Tusket River, Argyle and other .-.tttle- ments. Many of the Islands are improved and made valuable, affording excellent pasturage for sheep and cattle. The western- most cluster of these lie North of the Mud and Seal Islands, called the Bald Tuskets, connected by shoals and ledges, leaving £{l«t of them a narrow passage, which is distinctly seen on BppMjaching from Cape Sable within the Seals. ■ From the Cape Ledge, the course to the passage is N. by W. The Ovvl's Head, within the passage, is seen six or eight miles off: this'ii^ould be kept nearly touching the eastern land, until you get wit^ half a mile of the entrance, A dangerous rock» i^e Old Womafjfy^een at two-thirds ebb, lies E. by N. from the smdA bold, southemt.Qst island, and S. by E. from the passage. . A ledge partly uncoverfei^ at low water, extends three-fourths across the entrance from the ^tcrn shore : the western side is \ > \ •■'J • 7 I* '■► -.-..fc '. -^w j*.ft»8)tr-T-v^>. .^'-'t-AaarfM 86 A BRIEF DESCRIPTION bold, 7, 8, and 6 fathoms depth : the tide here runs with great strength. Half way through, a small inlet offers shelter to vessels of moderate size, in 4 or 5 fathoms mud, and small vessels anchor inside the Spectacles, the two northernmost islets. At the North entrance a ledge lies, from the West side about half way, obliquely North-eastward. ..,i ;t ; xu , ,... ^ Northward of the passage, the tide being less confined, runs easier:, and the anchorage is pretty good ; the little ^harbor of Jebogue is shoal, frequented only by coasters. The lands are good, of a moderate height, and well settled ; wearing the appearance of successful industry. On the West side of Brier's Island stands the light-house, » building so vilely constructetl, and so ill lighted, that it is justly considered a public nuisance. The author took from its lantern a wooden pane from among many of the same kind : and in con- sequence of his strong representation, it was altered by the Commissioners of the Provincial Lights, and improved as far as the building would admit ; but no reliance should be placed on it. — The population is twenty-five men, twenty-seven »vomtn, forty-nine boys, forty-six girls: total one hundred -^nd forty- seven: it contains three thousand acres. Long Isi-and has twenty-two men, twenty-iwo women, forty-niK hoys, forty-two girls, and contains seven thousand acres ^ _... .. .. I''' J.,.: I ;.»] *=»■ ■«fwi",..- .-**.■■«»,■ ^■% Kl.. •^ ■<4w„ '>: X Xjk^-^- i '. : It tf=3' 1.1 GRAND MANAN 1 1 i.H ■:>• Forms a part of Charlotte County, in the Province of New Brunswick : its length is fourteen n)iles and a half, width seven miles: the gross contents may be estimated at thirty-seven thousand acres. The northern point is in latitude 44° 54', longitude 66" It lies nine miles firom the nearest part of the district of Maine, and thirty-hve miles from Brier's Island, which is to it the nearest part\)f Nova Scotia. From thus standing in the middle of the Bay (tf Fundy, it is obviously of importance in a political view, comraatiding a sight of all that passes to and fro; and possessing places of natural strength, and harbors of perfect security for vessels of war, its retention in the hands of our Government must be dedW-able. ^t is subject to the same vicissitudes of climate as Nova Scot^, except the wintess are less severe, being tempered by the sea air. . tv... ..i,! • .» .= ...... ■., - Its nsht;gjj ^^^ j^ gp^^^^. estegi^ ^j^j, ^.jjg Americans > pwards of a hunttr^ g^^jj ^^f vessels, besid**\ 4, llf .'•*• « *» ■ v .• 4. Ifl**fif H 88 A BRIEF DESCRIPTION The farmers who have lately settled in the interior, speak very favorably of the nature and properties of the soil. All they have attempted, has answered fully their expectations. The ground under tillage may be computed at two thousand acres. The soil is in general good, aboundmg in many places with an argillaceous earth ; and to judge from the growth of the timber with which it is covered, there is no doubt it would amply repay the toils of the husbandman. It produces all the species of fir, birch, beech, and maple, in size and quality adequate to all the purposes for which they are generally used. .. Lime-stone is found on the largest of the three isles, but very little used, from the difficulty of shipping it. , The population is seventy-one families: seventy-four men, seventy women, oae hundred and nineteen boys, one hundred and twenty-one girls, three hundred and eighty-four total. They are chiefly from the States, and from the constant intercourse, are strongly tinctured with American manners and prindples: a large portion of the best lands are the property of residejits in the United States. . i t: : A pair of Moose purchased by Mr. Gernsh, one of the original settlers, were turned on the island, and have consi^^*"- ably multiplied : twelve were killed last winter. They v^^rd excellent and profitable sport for the iiihabitants. / > ■ ' It may not be improper to give a short accoj^ ®' these animals. The Moose, when erect, is six feet high ^^^ male has A a or NOVA SCOTIA 89 horns, almost as enormous as the Elk ; the stem of them however is not quite so wide, and they branch on both sides hke those of a deer. They shed them annually in February and March. Though the hinder parts of tliis animal are very broad, its tail is not above an inch long. It has feet and head like a camel ; its head is about two feet long, the upper lip much larger thiui the under, and the nostrils are wide. The hair is light grey, mixed with a blackish red. It is very elastic, for though it be beaten ever so long, it will retain its original shape. The flesh is exceeding good food, easy of digestion and very nourishing. The upper lip, which is large and loose from the gums, is esteemed a great delicacy, being of a firm consistence, between marrow and gristle, and when properly dressed, affords a rich and luxurious dish. Its hide makes good leather, being thick and strong, yet soft and pliable. The pace of this creature is always a trot, which is so expeditious, that it is exceeded l>y few of its fellow inhabitants of those woods. It is generally found in the forests, where it feeds on moss and buds. Though of the deer kind, they never herd as those do. They go eight months with young, and bring forth two at a time : the breeding season is in June. Most authors confound them with the Elk, Deer, or Carraboo, though they arc a species totally different. •?ifc »ii' .r,. The cliffs on the Island's west side are nearly perpendicular, rising 600 feet above the sea level, and but one little inlet, Dark Cove, along the whole range, that will afford shelter even for boats. The northern head is equally abrupt and bold : on the eastern side of it is au anchorage called Whale Cove, in which ships can lie to wait the tides, in southerly gales. The depth is A a V'^'^ &f •■f'^ Aj: ; -s^ I ! 90 A BRir.1' DESCnilPTIOV ij i from 15 to $5 fathoms, but this place is completely exposed to riorthern gales. i The Swallow's Tail, or N. E. point of Long Island Bay, named from its horizontal shape, is bold, ragged, high, and barren. This anchorage is easy of access, as an open bay possessing all the advantages of a harbor. Under Ix>ng Island, opposite t!he beach, ships may anchor, even locking the North end of Long Island in with Swallow's Tail, in strong muddy bottom, unaffected by sea or wind from any quarter. In the northern part of the bay the bottom is a stiff clay : and vessels ill provided with gelar have rode out severe gales without apprehension. The bottom in the whole bay is muddy with 7 or 8 fathoms, except a ridj^ extending from the ledge that shews itself within SwalloAv's TiaEiI> and the North end of Long Island. On this ridge is from 10 to 12 fathoms: it is composed of rocks and gravel. A smsll bunch of sunken rocks lie half a mile N. N. E. from Long hVitid point, five feet under -water at low spring tides. Under Great Duck Islatid the ground is good : attention to the plan is necessary in running in without a pilot. When the tide is high, the dangers arie hidden. Souih-wcstward of Duck Islahd lie HdSs, Cheney, and White Head Islands, the latter belonging to W. Frankland, a pilot, %ho is constantly on the look out; many vessels have been ^aVed from shipwreck by his activity. The cove opposite his house is a resort for'iBihing Vci^i^ but Wiib'ftn )iiWferiy%ittkrit^l9'«ta Sgly place. t| ... I ^■ : f 5-^?". ' I '^.-s-i L. OF NOVA SCOTIA. 91 western side of Ross ^land forms a part>of Grg^n^ Harbor, a ahallow, nju(|(ly bason. Ships may enter it and lie-in'the mud, perfecliy secure : a convenience vefjjr desirable when without anchor or cable, which may occur to vessels rfowrerable from the oirter ledges. ' At the entrance the depth is frafflt 5 to 7 fathoms, clay bottom ; nftirrow, yet secure from any^ea. tf*" •» ' The lee of Green Islands, ani also Kent's or "three Islands, afford gpod' casual anchorage, mhd bottom with 7, 10, to 14 fathoms. • . ♦ • Wood^sland and the S.W. tongue of Qrand Mauan, form a laree space of excellent anchorage. The upper part of. t^is iojet, and the bead of it, in a gale of wind, afTord^ecuo andiofage. •Dbose places are all well settled, and afford supplies. * The dhore of tKe districPof Maine is bold, and vessels beating througl^ generally stand from side to side, particularly in foggy* weather: the channel is seven or eight miles wide,*fir»m #2 ^to 70 fathoms (|eep. The tide courses regular and. strong* through h. I^der PoftHuaaa^oddy Head is good anchorage* MANAN LEDGES. i *,. ' ■r.'i: ^-^The tiiost 'dangerous is Ihe Old L4i||||^4^r Proprietor, spreading V&^tcaiof halfiln acr(||^t low wafeir. AVhen covered, the tide "^Vectly /er it, atthe^te of four^knots. t^rOm^the Gannet* it is Nq2-E. seven mites. Three miles S. g-'from Old. Ledge, \ :JJ£V t f m:'^ # •Vv. ■■TV, Ta .■# • • • •'- V- • H ♦ • /' r;**v /fT^' v- ■r 1.- ■^'.tl 92. . Vte'' t : «•■■-#' A tiillBF jlls^OKIPTION- 3^-. jj» s, Wei ''";'' '• • • ii^^Clei;|V,Gro^d : fi^d Esfst^ fronj^ it, nearly. i^iW miiles, , ||ladt'Jba^^*.ulJj*a biiajfjwifh 8- fathoms watej>«£|||gg" art jex- • * Jki^emWmv^ arid '<»ii4 |fe . :The' S. W;.|^^;i,of • ; ' \f^ »*•■ * V: » -,..'>■ •M- i^.-/ |lttlfl% W'" :iijeat*^ S?.^^ x*' !« Poiik* the Tinker, Three :IKam'oiiiis, llah8^^<^|pi , liian^ .'z So*me shew^em9elv:e%,joi^$rJ» have 3 ai^ 7 ^et Qja t^QBl The Three fclands, the southernmost of the cluster of iVf^tian, are low and«Iedgey.. The East side of the largest j^ fi0d,'1^o , • *th| rock? that appear at al^ times. Off .their N. W. s^as( a - , /^^ sunken ledge lies, called the Constable, dr^^atlow water. | ■ • , * S. S. W. of the Three Isles, four miles, is the Gann^ ^ock, forty feet above the sea ; this bqjng dry in aljt ^^^tlicH^aii^, . near all the dangerous rocks, would be a fipe sj^iation for a \i^t^ ^« • house, and savB many ships j, Ithas alwijib^r j^^sn^t'ali ledgl'^ ' sunken rocks about it, that arc always breaking.. -.'.^ / •.^' ♦ ♦• ^-A-: '^^- JtM II 7 1 ,\ . ^ Z^ (iv tw**^ •• #1 ■• ^-dii^X '/Vessels dam^giea ^Jji^t .oil me j^ . * * ^^^'■• S*;' 't -4 Vo a |fc -'if f kid. . u A* •Dujce of IU|^sttnk on ^ ' * *• . >V 'Peni<©pe; ^^dHi^ lost ^a 'SK? ^' Bfigsj-^Pli^ from Si JoWjfr^ivKpl^i**! */• . 'r . ,/Maiy-ann,.Sc. Jobn,.Stav« on.Loilg EVi :• *i 'ii^.ii*' l^ntfer/England, on ft leijgejie^r Three blands, wit '''^^^^ >%i. .j^ l^rhoonera-^Maiy; l!)igt»y^on the Muf^^edge»,"Mf^'Ic^^ ' • "^ v^ i^<^"^*^> )Bctet^i^ - " vfW^'Sl^ ^titiAir^jpf ^attfl4la«^^%( froMi »i9n^North 1^he WitMtoiiAeM^en ^henl^^^^^'Wvd' |is tt^^ and^or&go. {?; '^■.^ rvs;. [ii^^fi^ti^e'eft^ Vies«4slets . and y|(filathoms, liiijddy bottom,*. ggjn«^ up, t;^'^ consid^bl^ V, , Ij^land, with the ••■H. * 'v-;^ ■*-,., i^ , const '■• *'•• -^ *i » J^iei^- \^>i H .'v ..^ t^ . t - • •-*^ ^ . *i jLuJii: !^ ■^T i i2* , * 1? ,, ;■ 0# A BRIEF DESCRIPTION These have hitherto been known only to the fishermen, And a few active settlers, who have resorted^ to these places for the purpose of procuring their winter's. supply Sf.fish/ * • . T ^^ No chart extailt shews the dangers^ of Manan : no book of directions that I U^e ever seen, ^plains the courses and rates of the tides. • ^ . * * The repeated fnstances of shipwreck' arising mostly /rom deficient information concefning thes& dangers and tides, drew /rom the' merchants of St. John's city iui application td the jLoTds .of the Admiralty for a survey^of Uie Bay of Fundy. •*^'^ vj'-^'Vtf'sl!^ ' ¥' The entrance ofPAsrsAkiAQUODDX Bay forn^ed by Cinnpo Bello on ttie South, and Sprtlce and White Islands on the North, i« in width thfee miles ; the greatest depth is Tif^fathonu^ The tide of flood strikes across-from the S. £. land to the White Ii^ands with great strength, and in light* winds mu^t be particularly guarded against. The wid;er between is very deep, and inside of White. Hor§e you may. anchor in 45 iathona mud. ' A ledge N. W. one mile from White Horse, it 1^ feet beneath the surface at low water. %% .0 The jirarjous Harbors and fivers, of, ^H^^nterestii^ bay shall receive their merimjLatt^ntion so soon-aiiAie Fine of demark- ktion betwei^ -fiia determined. T 's prc^ces and the United States' \f> • Oh the Nortb part of (Smipd Bello wy|||ut Payamaquoddy lies HsAd H\rbor ; lliis is secure, ai^d in it^O) 7* 8, fathoms: it is small and perfectly^ safe, with mud b4Rni* ' ' /• ^ * T^i- mS^ ■t\- • ■ » 4 . • • or NOVA SCOTIA. 95 Quaddy Light stands upon a' low point of the N. E. extremity of the district of Maine, and at the S. W. entrance of Passama* quoddy. It is in contemplation the placing an alarm bell in the light-house. Northward of this light, between Campo Bello and Maine, there is good anchorage, but the passage is tihoal and intricate. At the Seal and Mud Llands the ebb runs East by South, South-east, and South, as influenced by the ^hape of the lands, and direction of the winds. ' --'--' s.'- -„; - ..*'. v. o The city St. John, on the North side of the Bay of Fundy, forty-five miles from Manan, stands on an irregular descent, with a southern aspect, and on entering the river, presents an agreeable and imposing appearance. .:^ .4 f«* fw- i . .1 S^ ^> . r;- J . •■>:16*- ••• The river's mouth is narrow and intricate; many accidents have hapD|i|p.tb those who attempted the navigation without a pilot. ^-^ ^ ' Partridge Island is about two miles southward of the city, answering the double purpose of protecting the harbor, and by its light-house guiding the mariner to the place of his destination: the lantern b one hundred and sixty-six feet above the sea level, and the light is tolerably good. » The bottom for several miles southward of Partridg Island is muddy, and the depth gradual, from 7 to 20 fathoms, afTordmg excellent anchorage : the .passage westward of this island has in it 10 fee^ and eastwa.rd of it 16 feet : opposite the city the anchoring depth is from 7 to 22 fathoms. #« '• • A\ ■■^■■.: X.* ■•*.. if * ib-. •% TT^ 96 V # A BRIEF DCSCRIPTION* Three-fourths of a mile North of the light-house stands a beacon, on the end of a rocky l^dge, forming the West side of the channel, with deep water close to it. . vt%^u After the first quarter flood, the tide below the surface runs into the hart>or: during summer and the depth of winter, at half flood, the tide generally flows in : in the spring and fall, when the river is charged by rains or the melting of the ice, the water streams out, or seaward, continually ; therefore at these periods a vessel seldom enters the harbor without a fresh leading wind. At full and change the tide flows until half-past eleven : the vertical rise 24 to 88 feet : common tides rise 18 feet. Within the last year a breakwater ha been erected at the eastern side of the entrance, below the town, intended to intercept the violence of the sea, occasioned by southern gales. 'J?/ \ ! J '■ I ; ; i [ i ) : I Every possible facility and convenience is given to ships wanting repair : they lie upon blocks, and undergo a thorough examina- tion, without incurring the expence, the injury and loss of time, occasioned by heaving down, so strangely persisted in at the contiguous Port of Halifax. The river branches many hundred miles zig zag, through a country abounding in excellent timber, coal, limestone, and other minerals : with lands favorable to agriculture— resources that will, if properly managed, enrich the city, and increase its con- sequence. *' Common tides rise below the falls from 18 to 20 feet, and l! )7 '♦' '11 JJM OF NOVA SCOTIA. 97 in spring tides about 4 fathoms : above the falls they seldom rise to more thant 4 feet. The current runs down till half-flood, and up till half ebb. The falls are smooth every half tide from fifteen to twenty minutes, at which time they may be passed without danger by all vessels for which there is sufficient sound- ings : the greatest rise at the falls is equal to half the rise of the tide." — R. G. Bruce, Engineer^ 1761. :;*^' '*, *' Rirer St. John has sufficient depth of water for large ships to the falls, whence it continues navigable eighty miles up into the country for vessels of one hundred tons. At Fort Frederick the tides rise 18 feet, and at Equinoctial spriuir tides 25 feet; above the falls, it seldom flows more than 4 feet. When the tide has risen 12 feet at the fort, the falls are smooth, after which, during twenty minutes, they are passable. At times of great freshets, which generally happen between the beginning of April and the middle of May, from the melting of the snow, the falls are absolutely impassable for vessels bound up the river, as the tide does not rise to their level." — Des Barres. ■--'- ' • - • ■' ■■ it l!«C After passing the falls you enter a gullet, which is a quarter of a mile wide and two miles long ; winding in different courses, and having 16 fathoms in the channel. Next to this gullet is a fine large bason, a mile and a half wide, and eight miles long, entering the main river." ,„ " There is water sufficient (except in dry seasons) for vessels of fifty tons, as high as Frederickton, and in all the branches of the lakes." ■ 'I ^a A BRIEF DBSCBIPTION " In the middle of May (or earlier in favorable seasons) thf snow and ice in the country melting, make a general overflow in the river, which in some years rises so high as to inundate all tht^ low lands/ ^■y '•.J' i' < *.' " The overT.owings were measured in 1765 by the marlcH set up at Majorfield : the water was found to have flowed 17 feet above the common height of the water in summer." ^ f n -c)i -rurff Remarks by Charles Morris^ Esq. •vl-r t'W.T'-.'.'n- M' Twelve miles westward of Partridge Island is Musquash, that has four fathoms water, with good anchorage at the mouth. <^ni From Partridge Island W. S. W. twenty-seven miles, is Point Lapreau ; the shore between is bold, the land broken and high. This point ought to be classed an one of the dangers of the Bay ' of Fundy : many serious accidents have lately happened in the neighbourhood of this promontory. Four miles East of it are the harbors of Dipper and Little Dipper ; the former good for small craft ; the latter having but 12 feet water, is fit only for boats. Westward of Point Lapreau is Mason's Bay, a deep and ugly indent. Ships bound to the River St. John, dreading to pass its mouth, frequently get imbayed, and some valuable vessels have thus been wrecked. At the head of this bay, is good shelter in a place called Pok-logan. The city St. John contains, say nine hundred houses and six thousand inhabitants, but until better materials are collected, an account will not be given : but an idea of the abundance of the finny inhabitants of its waters may be conceived by the fact OP NOVA SCOTIA. 99 of 50,000 barrels of salmon and herring having been taken and cured the last season, 1817. ■ i\ From St. John's eastward to Quaco, the land is high, and tho interior hills rise in easy inequalities; but near the shjre the clifTs are abrupt, and the ravines, here and there, de-p and gloomy: the indents have beaches, and Black Ri\er, twelve miles West of Quaco, is a safe inlet for a small vessel, but dry from half tide. The bank of gravel off Quaco lies W. N. W. and E. S. E. in shape of a sole : the widest and shoalest part westward, leaving a mile space or channel between it and the dry islet off Quaco Point. The bank in itself is a mile long, and a third of a mile wide. Vessels frequently ground on it. The lands in St. Martin's neighbourhood are moderately good, but broken, steep declivities, small vallies, abrupt precipices, and light soil, that does not retain the manure. The bay is often ruined from the limited and short intervals of sun shine : the humid blustering, and changeable weather.^ The inhaj}itants struggle hard for a maintenance, and often in vain. From Partridge Island to Anita polis the course is S. 4 E. distance thirty-five miles ; the depth across 7) ^25, 64, and 40, soft bottom. The gut in clear weather is easily distinguished, and in a fog S. by £. easterly with the ebb, and SiW. with the flood, will certainly hit it. Strangers frequently mistake a fall in the land called Gulliver's Hole, for the Gut of Annapolis : this error is seldom of consequence, as the wind on shore is generally clear. ,'• *< •;* "- Ic- The abrupt precipices of the high lands form the gut, and I I I 100 A BRIEF DESCIIIPTION cause flmricB of wind that course in all direction.'*, and rush violently from the summits of the hills. The tide hurries through the gut with great force. There is not anchorage except very close in shore, near the outer western poiiit. In some places the depth is 40 to 80 fathoms, and in entering Annapolis Bason tlie scenery is inexpressibly beautiful, and if our wandering countrymen in affluence would cross the Atlantic instead of the Channel, tlie bold and imposing scenery of Canada, Cape Breton, Acadia, or New Bruns' ick, would rivet their astonish- ment. The features of nature are here presented on a grand scale. Lakes oceanic, rivers whose branchej* or arms would pyg- matize the largest in Europe, if divested of their commercial importance. . . : For many years a small light-house, standing on the West point of the entrance, direcced the navigator to the gut of Anna- polis, and a fine harbor, a fertile country, an extensive and profitable fishery with a town settled by authority, and in honor to Her Majesty Queen Ann, were promising advantages, but by a change of circumstances, the capital was removed to a sterile, rocky, and broken neighbourhood: and the light-house being destroyed by fire, was suffered to remain extinct till 1817» when four hundred pounds were voted for the one lately erected : one hundred pounds of this sum was to have been raised by the inhabitants of Annapolis and Digby. But it appears that the whole expence of the building will not exceed three hundred and fifty pounds, and it stands a monument of mistaken economy* The light is to be exhibited from a window, one hundred and twenty feet from the surface of the water. /^JIjH*^,-^,; OF NOVA SCOTIA. 101 In the American war, most of the vessels belonging to tbii port were taken : but it is rapidly recovering these losses. *^'-«*iJ' i »,1^ The farms are growing valuable and extensive. The herring fishery is a source of great profit; they are so well cured that the merchants of Halifax and St. John give them a decided prefer- ence for foreign markets. . . > The packet between Digby and St. John is well regulated, with good accommodations, and generally .iiakes the passage in a few hours. I ' ^■^ J r The Bason of Mines and Chignecto Bay, surrounded by valuable settlements, and abounding in coal, plaister, lime- stone, and other minerals, are at the head of the Bay of Fundy, and will be connected with the account of New Brunswick in the next edition. Ships bound up the Bay of Fundy should make the Americau shore near Machias, instead of the eastern side, because the former is bold, and the prevalent winds from the westward secures to them the passage. TIDES In the Bay of Fund j are very rapid, but regular ; and although the wind against the tide alters the direction of the rippling, and sometimes makes it dangerous, it has little or no effect on the courses of the tides. Dd \ i #'•' I IT 102 A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF NOVA SCOTIA. Th| flood sets from Cape Sable to the North-westward, at two to three knots, through tbj Seal Islands and Bald Tuskets: ob- structed by these islands, its rate is increased to four or five knots ; thence taking the direction of the shore, flows past Cape St. Mary, thence N. N. W. towards Brier's Island. The flood sets but slowly up the extensive Bay St. Mary, which adds to its strength along the eastern shore. This vast body of water rashing up, and the bay narrowing, suddenly causes it to fill the Bason of Mines ajpd Chignecto with vast rapidity, and rise to even 75 feet. FINIS. ^I'^t t -" ■• \? r r t; I ' *'■■: . e t -* 4- « \ ^vm Ml.'' ,- - ' > ,, ■ . i ■e APPLNDIX. §0 universal an intftrest appears excited by the preparations to examine the North Polar regions, that there can be iio sound reason for not rendering an account of the projected scheme of the voyage to our friends, who favor the publication of this work. The ships have sailed, are perfectly equipped, provided with every instrument and implement that a mature consideration of the difficult circumstances likely to present themselves, could " suggest. The leading scientific men of the country havv. aided the deliberation of the persons intrusted with the arrangement. The novelty of the subject, the prospect of an increase to geographical knowledge, and there is a reasonable hope that the mysterious - cause of the variation of the compass will be brought to light, are inducements to attach to the preceding work an Appendix, illustrative of the voyage in question. To this end an extract from the Quarterly Reviev/, No. 35, is chosen, and a small Polar - . *■ ■• 1. * -■> *"''V' J I? ■«v \ «!. ^* ■ i ,^-":- V-j j'v'^tia.'*'^*'-^ T r ! ) 104 APPENDIX. Chart, extending from the northern extremity of the world's axis to 44° latitude, will probably convey all that is desired. A feeling of curiosity will be excited for the fate of the persons embarked in this extraordinary excursion. Various are the con- jectures and strange conceptions formed of its ultimatum, but all persons appear to join in an earnest wish for their success. It is argued that exploring the Pole is a mere matter of curiosity; an atom of astronomical knowledge will enable the reader to think the contrary. There is the greatest reason to expect, even should the vessels fail in reaching the Pole, or passing into the Pacific, that most material discoveries will ^result. ;- * . , ,; ; ., . .? G* f'tf.n^ #*i&if "Tr" fi ■ ■%, • * % %, ^^> k**-,™ '■%- ■•lt*^«„ 'I ^ . .> -■*' 'fo f I n V;^"V :^^f^; ■vW. m- #' H '-V •%. M ^:- ,-" ■, .■♦^■' -*- i.# \jii^: < f. '■• ^: » '4 '•*'- • , . • t^ • ^ ( t : •* -> •;.;>Vv >.' .* Il ^ V w 'it .1 I . ll It ^ ■i*, 1 • ■*«. . » \i . . *: ■' m ' «Sv«J^ ••^TSffiaarK'^^ ./ pr**'*'' rtMithttL artk.Ja Jinwtr %> .I.LmimMd I'-'Mif/ ttta. '?*-• :»( '^ .'. APF^NDIk. 105 ♦^. fiXTRAC^S. Amokg the changes and vicissitudes to which the physical constitution of our globe is perpetually sul^ect, one of the most extraordinary, and from which the most interesting an(^ important ^Jesuits may be anticipated, appears to have taken place in the 4||3Durne of the last two or three years^ltad is still in operation. .Yke convulsion of an earthquake and the eruption of a volcano pe thiouedves into notice by the dismay and devastation with 3r a greater or less degree, they are almost always 'ded : but the event to "which we allude has been so quietly accomplished, that it might have "* remained unknown, but for (ui extraor^inary^chaiige which a few intdnigent navigators re- marked in the ittate of tfam arctic ice, ftnd the reports of the <«* unusual quaiftiti^ of this i^ obserlRf in the Atlantic. As it is a subject«in V^hich the British islanm |pe particularly interestili, we shall enter into sooie detail of tl^- facts, and of their probable consequences. •*.; ', 11^ * •V^vf. "it ■ It is generally ftd milted! tiiat, for the last Jbor liundred years, an extensive portion of the^ eastern coast of OM^ Greenland bas been shut up by an impenetrable barrier of ice, and, with it, the ^ill-fated N^in^ian.or J>8nisl\ colonies, which<(ihad ]i)een esta- Iflishcdl there for 'ithore than an ^qual length of time prleceding B e i iif-^. ^' '■>■>■ % .' :^'. W '■V ■ a ..fe-., ■' f' i. 'i#:: '^'\ ■« ^^ >' ,v •^<. V'.'W'^'i''-'" •v.. -.1? 'H. Greenland. r>' r ii-':-.> •fH .-vj,Sifti MV.;-»- J^ lOd ^*f > *- ' '\ APPENDIX* that iiiifortunate catastropKe, and who wf ke thus cut dv at once from all communication with the mother country ;— that various *# ""S utttmipts have been made from time to time to adjproach this cottltj|,i|' , with the view of ascertaining the fatp of the unfortunate (jolonia^* y"; but i|> vain, the ice being evefy where impervio.#'^ ^ . *■ X ■: ^a ijiiyt udie and nuajfer, occilkiyd m tS^Ajiail ^ as the fbrtieth parailfiJ 0f lftii^dc(» & ed ice-bergs, from a hundred fo^)pU|pa^ i»nd tttify re^ above Iho Surface of the waidi^^nd sev^al qitles in<'c!rctuu|[er<^dt; others w«re flat Ipinds of packed ice| gt!9||il aQ,|^xtco('^ of- surface, that 'a ship from B^i^ti^ ; O^lii^ll'^ hiaye baen three ... days entangled jyi it: near the tail wWfSsf^t Bank'oT N^^wfound- lan'd. The ship of the Unittts F|^tr(l|||r, pro^|d^n2:^ the misiiioni bn Old Greenland, was, last y^f elei^ (la%^ii)^i||,i|A the coait .of Lal[^a#>r, wifn the ice-berg^, Ts\9.nyvlLiii\^Si upQn them^ gravel, soil/ fad fllw^of fockj. ifl(t^i»• •1^ APPENPIX*. /Apr her-'" '- ' Halifax, pdtwed in April Iai»t, u itioun^in of ice ^,nearly tw« . .,^r<« huncired fe«t in height^ and at least two miles in circunift;reoce. * ' ' \ jC< By fl^QOUnts from Newfoundland, Halifajt, .»nd #her northern '^^ ■ ' parts of America, it would appear, that greater Juantities of ice r - were, seen ..in- the monthii of May, June, and Juir, than had eve^ % "-*"^- ' ' ' ^- — that the whole. V # >tV beea wtt nj p ml by the oldest navigators ; Islantk'ol'Hewfouiii'dland was so completely environed with'U, that *t? ^j the',v*l*els employed in the. fishery were unable to get out to ^ea *'; to follow their usual occupation. The soiirce fromwtrtph these • rv, v"^'**'. -. .; enorn|d||0 masses proceeded could not lomg be^ concealed. It : ^i: mts wl^ lj[n6wn to the Greenland fisherman, thai; from Staaten,. .mhSi>eV, j^.iioutharn promontory of Old O^eenlandj jj4 uninterrupted . barrier of ice stretched North-east^ly, or pRra]||y WSarly to the coast't approa^ifig frequently to the very shore|nof Iceland ; and ,,* '' that thesftall island, situated in lat. 71°^!' long. 5° 30' W. ■^^ called J©ri May en's Islanc^ (a sort of Jiand-mark which those " engaged in the seal fishery filj^ays endeaii'Our to make,) had of. late ^ . years been completely enveloped in J^-; and that from this point ' '', il genera'Uy t(j|p,k a more eMterli^^rectio%|till 'i\ became fi)t^I to the shofe^of Spitzbefg^, ^^'the 76t^Kf t*;^ 8Qth, degjj^e of >,IS^.' "1* •■w^v *♦.. ■ 5- »0 ;'^ \ latitude. Ai._ -I ■,m^. IF |l The more centra) j^lcf jjP t)>is wi^ense. jl^^ ticcupy the Jf0(0iA^0S^ -"^^^^^ Greenland separate from tim^MO ^jm% iIIq large, patcjaes,^ an positions afccoaFdmg tc^#nds a|id"tides; lwt^i| gerjieral' dir^^on in whi(%^tl>|t)r^f|py9^ifi^^ from#^rtli-efia^9^ South, west, or 4irectl^ tpiiivj^pB^ .|i|g^ of Qk^V^|l||^ v^lj^rg the Danisl^oionies|were\jMp^ to-.W estaD%qSH|HPl.d* whidl are ira rn ^lately o^si^^I^elai^^^ a ^V""' W'^-^. '**^-..'- i m., west, or 4ifectl«^ tiOM«gJ^^^ •>*# .' I Danisl^oioniea|were\*B|^ to- W estab%«i|ni.d* whidl are * ^ ';*f^ -^ ^-i. V |3 . ;n»,. iramei^tely o^tositeftl^^l^lliajefe jt .wouldSSii those masscb ~. •^ ?*';?^> ; .'.^'^S| # 1^, ;> -^"'h.. j£ "^ .«**' 53r .««»^-. -%■* 1 V h'.^..' •Kir*'^' •T '^. f* '*;' .^'. li •Vs.. ^ "becanad^Vrnd of fixed'tmcleus, round whioi a succession of flout- ing tiol(isof ice attached' themselves, till the accurnuliited barrier, probably by its own weight and magnitude, and the action Sf the impeded current, at length feurst its fetters, and. has bet^n carried away to the southward. This at least appears to be the fn08< probable conjeitUfe, though unother circumstance will hereafter be adverted to, not unwordiy of attention in endeavooring to account for the phenomenon. yf .y-i ■V- .f*!:vrf?-. . •; •iTf/' .1^ .•T-t^rr It had beien conjectored by philosopljers that the remarkiable •chiUiness of tbre atmosphere during the two last summers, tmd more particularlj^ivith westerly winds, coiiM only be owing to tlie ticcamulatioT), or racier to. the approximation of the polar ice to • the southward. The r^its off'tfab'Greenland ^shftnnen.on their , -return in August, 1817, corai6cted with account of Hie ice seen in the* Atlantic corrobo^ted this hypothesis. Ih ibat mokth tl^eft! appeared in the newspa^ws,' a paragraph, stating, that, ** xn'Wt counse of a season, the commander of a brig from Bremen j after niakingJan May en V island, ii(>a1»out 7 V N., stood to the west- ward ih quest ofSealsithat in 7!^^ f»und land to ttie westwid'd ; . that 4h^ then sailed ^Mkj|^ ^"^^^ ^^^ ^^^^ coast- wit|iotit '. seein^.fce, observing tnllNpRnd inleiii,anaqtii^, appearances o^'t tV^lSid^ tiU he eame t»;Iafc. 81° 30', 'j^ii i»riiiiii) li coufd steer ii^^e^lgpl^ard whiph'^e ^idfor sevet^j^|||||j^ that he thd|i io^^t^ifht (MU)d» and ^jr^Gted. lA^ieOursf toll^MHithwarll^-, eastward, an^ •« 78° N,*fe!l \xjfni\x the firs^shing Vessels he'**^- seen.*" \^e toqk solirie paitsi to a»ce)?tain {ne inlki eriton A)hided to,) ■ »- 4\*% ^.C^'^4^ ivTf- '^#; i^ 'jf^- f ■ ■4' ■%. % V. «... ^•'K, \~S, ^xU ;.. ^ • • •*- .^ s v ' •* ^ 1^ ^^ift^^'^V- -■' APPENDIX. 7^a 109 •■c*- i-^' k;?^ ^;:^''^^ .^ .4:= )h^iilr of the Eleanora of Hamburgh, (not of BremetiiT^d I0kn an account of the course which he steered along the eastefli^ ^oast of Greenland^ from Jan Maycn's Island to the degree of * latitude above mentioned; and it appears from the joint testi- mony of the captain and surgeon of the Princess of Wales of Aberdeen^ that« the reckoning m his log-book was worked at the end of every watch, a practice which is also common among Bl^W^'^^leirs ain^er making the ice;' and that^ 'both the master and mate wei'e very intelligent navigators/ Since that time we have received from Hamburgh a copy of Captain Ocken's log, acbart of his route, and a letter addressed by him to Messrs. Elliot and Co. of Hamburgh, from all which it appears, that he >astedGreejj]||f|y|j^^ lat tne most northerly point which he saw was about 80* N. latitude. .7^, /• - . - ^ ^ ^ . • " - m '■iv V But we have the direct testimony of Mr. Scoresby the youngef^- ai.very.iirUx!Uiigent;navigatQrbfrtlre Greenland Sb^s, ftfir the' diMtfl^- IrQ^fi'miGe ^of an immense quantity of arctic ice. In a letter to * Sii* Joseph Banks, he says, * I observed on my last voyage (1817) • about two thousand square leagues (18,000 sr; tare miles>) of th6^'^;'^ t^'Il'cC^l surface of the Greenland Seas, incltif^ between thep»ra||i^^|E^.^;;; ■^|^^^^^ and §0^ perfectlv void of i4^dil4f|^.^^»iifc^ 1^ disappeared - "^ ' ^Wc^ within jM^fKllifryeJMns.* and lie further states, that though on ..'^'-'^S^'^^k former voyagts, he had very rarely been able to penetrate the iee, $' . ';;'^ . * ■ * boiween the latiiudes of 76° and 80°> so far to the West asthfe- ^ Agf'ii' V meridian of Greenwich, * on his last voyage he twice peached the 4^" *M, longitude of 10° West ;' that in the parallel of 74°, he approached ^ ^ * ; *fc!''*^'l^ coast of Old Greenland; iuu*. .' '^ was little ice near th^' ,-i^/ Ff ■•Sfk riTfj-i. ..«►'. Zvf- ^,_^.\' '.-"'^' ''''''^mm'^^,.,^^,^^^4^ -Jit •.■***'*.-' ^rtifw h. < ,'*!''' HO APPENDIX. land; and adding, 'that there coi^ld be no dobbt but he might have reached the shore had he had a justifiable nsotive for navi- gating an unknown sea at so late a set! son of the year/ He also found the sea so clear in return! . < to the southward, that he actually land'^d on Jan May en's Island, which is usually surroundfidr with a barrier of ice, and brought away specimens of the rooksv Another fact deserves to be mentioned. Dr. Oiinthus Grfgory» who sailed from Shetland to Peterhead in die Neptune of Aber- been, on her return from the fishery, is said to have reported, that Driscole the master, not only landed on the Eaat Coast of Greenland about the latitud of 7^'. but fotmd and brought away a post bearing an inscription, 'm Russian characters, that a ship of that nation had been there in the year 1774; which post with its inscription was seen on board by Dr. Gregory. It would seem indeed, that the nor hern part of the East coast of Greenland has been ap^ ""oached at various times by di6Eerent nations — Dutch, Danes, and English. Hudson, in 1607, saw the coast nearly in the same latitude as that where Driscole is supposed to have landed ; and actually sent a boat on sliore in- 80^ iSS'. It is fnHn Hud- son's * Hold with Hope,' in about 72° to Cape Farewell ^at the ice fixed itself to the land from which it has recently been detacb-sd. •^; That this u the case we can niui^ from the best authority : — intelligence was received at Cc^nhagen, fvom Iceland, in Sep> tember last, of ihe ice having broken loos'3 from the opposite coast of Greenland, and floated away to the southward, afW surrounding tlie dtoresy and filling all t^ bays zad creeks of that >^ %^ 4 # #&• w II ■ri # «t AFF£NOIX. Ill ** HI' v,v * = # % ■II iiilaod; and this afHictlng visitation was repeated in the same year, a circumstance hitherto unknown to the oldest inhabitant, ' We have said that the most probable cause for the sudden departure of all this ice, is that of its having broken loose by its cwii weight. It has been observed, however,, as a remarkable coincidence, that its removal was contemporaneous with the period about which the variation of the magnetic needle to the v/estward became stationary. It is well known that in tlie sea of Baffin (gratuitously called a bay^ the compass is a0ected in a nost extraordinary manner; and that the variation is greater there than in any other known part of the world ; so great indeed, as to lead to the belief that one of the magnetic poles roust be situated i:» that quarter : — But hpw does this, it mav be usked, , furnish a cIm fov the disappearance of the ice, which it would seem has also ^«|ed from thence in greater q^ntities than usual? ^ j,:^ ^^ .^,3.., 4!>tTbe connexion n certait% not very obvious, though there ifr r«aaon to believe that it exista. The aurora borealis^ for instance, is su{^8nd to owe, if z>ot its origin, at least its intensity to the^ changea which take place ^^er in tho ireesing, thawing,, or collisions of the polar ice ; anenor menon of the aurora is not inapplicable to the present stute of the ■m i^] i..- •■■*?8i ^«^ ^^ H "."tt. . ■# :i! t rir> J: f ; t V '^" 1112 APPENDIX** polai* ice. He supposes this meteor to be owing to tlie Vftst quantity of electricity accumulated in the atmosphore, and unable to pass off into the earth on account of the non-conducting sub- stance of ice, with which the land and sea are there incrusted ; this theory might serve to explain the first notice of the auront borealis about a century after the fixing of the ice along the cjast of Greenland, as well as the rarity of its appearance of late years. At any rate, however, if the electricity of the atmosphere has so extraordinary an effect on the magnetic needle, and the changes which take place in the ice on atmospherical electricity, it would seem not unfair to infer, that the departure of the immense fields and mountains of ice« which for so many centuries have covered the arctic seas, may have had some effect in stopping the career of the western declination of the needle. We merely vhrow out the hint U draw the attention of those scientific men, who may be employed on the expedition of discovery now in pre-' paration; in the mean time, in our present ignorance of the immediate cause, we must be satisfied to ascribe the revolution that has taken place to the decree of Providence^ who, as Paley observes^ * is the author of infinitely various expedients for infinitely various ends ;' to consider it as the result of one of those prospective contrivances, which are appointed to correct the anomalies, and adjust the perturbations of the universe. ^ , , • < The fact, however, of the disappearance of the ice being established beyond any doubt, it becomes a subject of no uninter-t esting inquiry, whetlier any and what advantages may arise out of an event which for the first time has occurred, at least to so g^-eat an extent, during the last fou;- hundred years } ■<^:-'^ \. #, ViSrfjfy ',* 'tfc m' ■i '••*e- » ;* P ^: % APPENDIX. 113 Among Other objects which present themselves as worthy of research, the following are no less interesting to humanity, than important to the advancement of science and the probable exten- sion of commerce> ,„ : : . ,. First.— The influence which the removal of so large a body of ice may have on our own climate. Secondly, the opportunity it affords of inquiring into the fate of the long-lost colony on the . eastern coast of Old Grefnlanl. Thirdly, the facility it offers of correcting the very defective geography of the arctic regions in our western hemisphere ; of attempting the circumnavigation of Greenland, a direct passage over the pole, and the more circuitous one along the northern coast of America, into the Pacific. 1. It would be a waste of words to enter into any discussion on the diminution r.t d,^ Irags, and found between the rocks and in the valleys. It 19 i.' * siud that good culinary vegetables were once produced on .it; but the cabbages seen there by Mr. Hooker, in the month of August were .so diminutive that a half crown piece would have covered the whole plant. Nothing but a deterioration of climate could have wrought these changes; and this can only be . G g ■* ' ^} J ^ 114 APPENDIX. explained by the vast increase of floating Ice, ' which/ «ays Hooker, ' not only fills all the bays, but covers the sea to that extent from the shore, that the eye cannot trace its boundary from the summit of the highest mountains.' Sometimes it con- nects the island in one continued mass with Greenland, when the white bears come over in such alarming numbers, that the inhabi- tants assemble and wage a national war against them. These masses of ice drive about with such rapidity, and rush against one another with so much violence, that the floating wood brought along with them is said sometimes to take fire by the friction. During this conflict, the weather i i<*" 'Retried and stormy; bat when once the ice becomes fixed to L. nd, the air thickens, and dense fbgs, accompanied by a moisi and penetrating cold, destroy all vegetation, and the cattle perish. ''v Similar effects, but to a less extent, are said to have been expe- rienced in Switzerland. So little is it there doubted that the pro- gress of cold has kept pace with the progressive encroachment of the glaciers on the valleys, that the first prize of the Society of Berne for improving Natural Knowledge, is appropriated to the best essay on this subject. In the absence of direct proof from thermometrical observation of the increasmg chilliness of the climate, it is asserted, on the authority of their annals, that many parts of the Alps, now bare, once afforded good pasturage ; that both historical evidence, and remaining traces, prove tlie existence of forests in places where - no tree, at present, can vegetate ; aiRl that the lower limit of perpetual frost is constantly descending. The same effect has been experienced in North America, in the year 1816 the mays or Indian corn, did not ripen along the whole coast from Pennsylvania to Massachusets — a circumstance •# #'■ '*t- •;«!'"■ APPENDIX. 115 which had not happened before in the memory of th« oldest inha- bitant :^at this time the ice was floating down the shores of the Atlantic as far as the fortieth parallel, im i >* »*,^i f «4^n^ Ar !,-'V.?- If such be the facts, and they cannot well be questioned, with regard to these countries, it is equally clear that our own climate, though in a less degree, must have been affected by this vast accumulation of ict on the East coast of Greenland. The dis- tance between the centre of Iceland and Edinburgh is not more than twice, and that from Iceland lo London not above three times, the distance between Iceland and the east coast of Greenland. That our climate has been more particularly affected, ir. the course of the last three years, by the descent of the ice into toe Atlantic* and more especially in the summers of the years 1816 and 1817, is a matter of record ; for on comparing, by the meteorological register of the Royal Society, the four summer months. May, June, July, and August, of 1805, 1806, and 1807, with the four corresponding months of the last three years, it will be seen that a very considerable diminution of temperature has taken place in the latter periods. -^ 1805 1815 Great- Mean Great- Mean «sl beiKbt est height height baigbt 68* 58.2' 70 61.6 72 62.9 69 63.5 May 72* 52.4 June 75 57.7 July 79 62.1 Aug. 79 65 leos i8i« Great- Mean Great> Mean est height ctt height hei|[bt height 75' 57.8* 83 81 81 62.5 64.5 64.5 6i' 70 69 69 53.3» 58.2 58.8 61 1807 iei7 Great- Mean Great- Mean est height est height height 84° 77 85 80 67.9* 60.3 66.5 66.7 height 64° 51.8* 81 70 69 62.8 60.8 59.6 'M Here we find axlifference of 11°, 12% and 13% between the highest temperature of August, July, and June, in the 3 ear 1806 as compared with I8I6; 16' and 17° between July and May of m %' 'm^' ■ ■■> *.'.■ 1= ' I i; i\ ■ : i *■• I : 116 APPENDIX. 3 807* as compared with the highest degree of heat in the corres- ponding months of 1816; and no less than 20" in the month of May 1807 and 1817; and the mean temperature of the four months is invariably less by several degrees in 18l6 and 1817» than in either 1806 or 1807, excepting in the month of June 1817) when ten or twelve hot days occurred with the wind at East; the only ones we had during the summer. In the summers of both years the mercury invariably fell with westerly winds. It can scarcely be doubted, therefore, that the remarkable chilliness of the atmosphere in the summer months of those two years was oMing to the appearance of ice in the Atlantic; and if this be admitted, as little can it be doubted, that the destruc- tion of so many thousand square leagues of ice, holds out a rational and not an unpleasing prospect, of our once again enjoying the genial warmth of the western breeze, and those soft and gentle zephyrs, which, in our time, have existed only in the imagination of the poet. o^i* *»» f-^^j^* •«* « ^f»Mm- The invention of the thermometer and the registry of the tem- perature are of two recent a date to enable us to compare the state of the atmosphere, before and after the accumulation of ice on the coast of Greenland ; but there are reasons for believing, that pr .tusly to the fifteenth century, England enjoyed a warmer iummer climate than since that period. We are aware that the changes of temperature depend on a variety of causes, yet the singh effect of an atmosphere chilled and condensed over a surface of at least 50,000 square miles of ice, rushing directly upon the British Islands from the westward, may have been equal in its diminishing power to all the rest. • *. APPENDIX. 117 S. The colony on the West side of Old Greenland increased to four parishes, containing one hundred villages ; but being engaged in perpetual hostility with the Esquimaux, the whole were ulti- mately destroyed by them. The ruins of some of the edifices were still visible in 1721, when that pious and amiable man, Hans Egede, went out with his whole family to settle there, on the re!-establishment of a colony on that coast by the Greenland . Company of Bergen in Norway. It still exists, and the popu- lation, taken but imperfectly in 1802, was found to amount to 5,621 souls; and we have since learnt that, including the Mora- vian establishments and the natives, who have mostly been converted to Christianity, the total population of the western coast of Greenland may now be estimated at not less than 20,000. They have a few cattle, and a considerable number of sheep, for whose >^inter subsistence they cut the grass in the summer months, and make it into hay ; but they have hitherto in vain endeavoured to bread hogs, these animals being unable to stand the severity of winter. - The Danish colony on the eastern was still more ^Xt6nsive than that on the western side. According to the Iceland Annals, it appears that it was first settled in the year 983, by Erick the Red ; that the country was named Greenland, from its superior verdure to Iceland ; that churches and convents were built, and a succes- sion of bishops and pastors sent over ; and that, from the latest accounts, it consisted of twelve parishes, one hundred and ninety villages, one bishop's see, and two convents ; that, in the year 1406, when the seventeenth bishop was proceeding from Norway to take possession of his see, the ice had so closed in upon th« coast, as to render it inaccessiblei From that period, till la»t Hh •«,•.. ■ 't-. •JKJT*,,-** .■7>fi»»"»r" . . < ♦ jf I •« •y,^ *' ,«, m r f 118 APPENDIX. summer, all communication seems to bave been cut off with the unfortunate colonists. It is related, however, by Thormoder Torfager, in his History of Greenland, that Bishop Amand, of Skalholt in Iceland, as he was returning from Norway to that island about the middle of the sixteenth century, was driven by a storm on the East coast of Greenland, off Herjolsness, immediately oppo- site to Iceland, which the vessel approached so near that the people on board could distinguish the inhabitants driving their cattle in the meadows ; but the wind coming fair, they made all sail for Iceland, which they reached the following day, and came to anchor in the Bay of St. Patrick. — Of all the attested relations, this of Bishop Amand, says Hans Egede, * deserves most to be credited :* * by this,' he continues, * we learn that the colony of the wastern district did flouriiih about a hundred and fifty years after the commerce and navigation ceased between Norway and Greenland ; and, for aught we know, is not yet wholly destitute of its old Norwegian inhabitants/ It has been supposed by 3ome writers, that the black death, which in 1348, desolated Europe, extended its ravages to Green- land ; but this assumption, as Mr. Egede observes, its without any foundation, as an uninterrupted intercourse appears to have been maintained with the colony for fifty-eight yean after this dreadful malady had ceased. He thinks, however, that, partly by the change of the government in Queen Margaret's reign, and partly from the continual wars which ensued between the Danes and the Swedes, the Greenland colonists may have been neglected ; for it does not appear that any steps were taken for a century, after the unsuccessful attempts of the bishop to land, when the Christians and the Fredericks, calling to mind these remote and long-neglected ■^1. li . '\i i*:'' '■.aP"> APPENDIX. 119 possessions, took measures for inquiring into the fate of their unfortunate subjects. One Mogens Heinson, a celebrated seaman of those days, was employed among others on this service. After many difficulties he got sight of the coast, but could not approach it ; and the reason he assigned, on his return, was, * that his ship was stopped in the midst of its course, by some loadstone rocks hidden in the sea/ Many subsequent attempts were made, but all proved ineffectual. itt:^ t Endeavours were also used to ascertain their fate from the colony on the western side, by coasting round Staatenhoek ; and it one of these expeditions Egede himself embarked, but was obliged to return without being able to effect his humane purpose. The Esquimaux pretend that they are afraid to approach the •astern shore, which they say is inhabited by a tall and barbarous race of men, who live on human flesh. — Thus has terror or malice created cannibals on every unknown or uncivilized part of the globe I Afler so many attempts, both public and private, how the Dahes can now pretend to doubt, as one of Jiheir writers affects to do, whether there ever was a colony on the eastern side, is, to us, quite inexplicable, unless it be to palliate their negligence at the first approach of the ice, and their want of humanity since. The Danish government however entertained no such doubts ; for ao late as the year 1786, Captain Lowenorn, of the Danish navy, was sent out for the express purpose of re-discovering the old colony on the eastern coast. The particulars of this voyage, W6 believe, were not made public ; but the following extract of a letto* from Mr. Fenwick (the British consul) to the secretary of the Admiralty, dated Elsineui*, 9th September, ] 786, prove|» jilt ffiilure;'^* Captain LoMrenom repassed three days ago* fbt Gopen- ,^..-|;-| 130 APPENDIX. hagen, after a fruitless search of about two months, to find out the Old Greenland ; not having been able to penetrate to where it is supposed to be, on account of endless shoals of ice. He left, however, Lieutenants Egede and Rhode, in the New Experimeirt fishing dogger, to seize any more favourable opportunity which may offer, better than he met with, for penetrating fkrther, if practicable, to operate any new discoveries after his departure, though entertaining very poor hopes of any success.' These lieutenants, we believe, never once got sight of the land. ■ I . I' h has fallen to the lot of the present age to have on oppor- tunity, which we are sure will not be neglected, of instituting ah inquiry into the fate of these unfortunate colonies. 3. Any event that tends to encourage the attempt to amend the very- defective geography of the aretie regions, mora especialiy on ihe side of America, may be hailed as an important oocup> rencoi The removal of the ice may be considered to> wtSar^ a fhir opportunity for prosecuting discoveries in that qualter, for endeavouring' to circumnavigate Old Greenland, and to settle the long disputed- question as to its insularity, or its connodon with the American continent — to examine llie sea usually named Baffin's Bay on the charts— and to attempt dve solution of that interesting' probtemj whether ar free and unintbrrupted communi-* caidon^ exists between- the> Atlantic and Pacific Oceans^ rowid the norUiern coast of North' America?. Several circumstances may hv adduced in supports of : thie vopinion that Greenland- is either an island or an archipelago: of islands, in which oase^ Bitffin's Bfty must' be expnpged- from. the I ii ! ! i t »■ 4** APPENDIX. 131 charts. A perpetual current, setting down from thfe northward, along the eastern coast of America, and the western shores of Old Greenland, affords a strong presumption, that between Davis's Strait and the great polar basin there is an uninterrupted communication : for if Greenland were united with the continent of America, and Davis's Strait terminated in Baffin's Bay, it would be difficult to explain how any current could originate at the bottom of such a bay, much less a eurnent that is stated to run sometimes with a velocity of four and even five miles an hour. But this is not the only argument in favor of the continuance of an open sea to the northward. Vast quantities of ^ rift- wood are floated down this northern current, as well as down the eastern side of Greenland, sometimes filling all the bays on the northern coast of Iceland. None of this could have grown to the northward, as not a stick of wood, beyond what a dwarfish coppice of birch may produce, is to be found in a growing state, for many degrees below the places where these logs are cast up, much less to the northward, whence they come. That many of them have recently been in a growing state appears from the fragments of bark and branches still adhering to them : that they have been floating in a warmer climate would also appear from some of them being eaten by the worm, and others having the marks of the workmen upon them. They consist of fir, larch, birch, aspen, and other trees, which aurfe, in fact, the produce both of Asia and America, and, in all pro- bability, have been flouted down the numerous rivers of both diese continents, (some, perhaps, through Behring's Strait,) into the great polar basin, and carried thence by the circumvolving current through the outlet into the northern ocean. It is fair ■.*-- - n^^^ 132 APPENDIX t. I! 1 : 1 I therefore to conclude that there must exist a free and open passage between this basin and Davis's Strait. The fact of several vessels having been as high as Baffin without observing the least appearance of land, removes all doubt as to the non- existence of the bay, as drawn in the charts. The master of the Larluns, of Leith, gave out that he had been last year as far up as 8(y ; but on a reference being made to Mr. Wood, the owner, he closely examined him, and found occasion to conclude that he had not proceeded higher to the northward than 77% but that the sea was clear, and no land in sight. In the same year Captain Lawson, of the Majestic, having passed the ice, ran in an open sea as high as 76" without being obstructed by land. A third argument in favor of the insularity of Old Greenland may be adduced from a fact, well known to the fishermen, that whales, struck with harpoons on the coast of Spitzbergen are very comnonly killed in the Strait of Davis with these harpoons in their bodies, and vice vend ; there can be no mistake here, as the names of the vessels, and the ports to which they belong, are always cut into the sockets of their harpoons. Captain Franks, in 1805, struck a whale in Davis's Strait, which was killed near Spitzbergen by his son, who foand his father's name on a harpoon sticking in its body : and the same year, in the same place. Captain Sadler killed a whale with the harpoon of an Esquimaux in it. The distance which these wounded whales would have to run round the North of Greenland is so much shorter, and whales are so rarely seen to enter the Strait of Davis roimd Cape Farewell that the probability is altogether in favor of the former supposition. VA ,1 •' ? , #■ ■ sks ^ W APPENDIX. 123 As the northern coast of America has been found to terminate at the mouths of Mackenzie's River, and of the Copper-mine River, about the 70th parallel of latitude : as Icy Cape appears to be the extreme point of America, on the West, and as no one has traced its termination on the East, beyond the arctic circle, or 67° at farthest, it is reasonable \o conclude that the general trending of that coast, from one extremity to the other, may keep within the 69th and 71st parallels of latitude ; and this is rendered the more probable by the Asiatic coast running, with the exception of one or two points, nearly along those parallels. The whole distance from the eastern to the western extremity of America, or from A. to B. is little more than four hundred leagues, in which the coast has been seen to terminate at three different and nearly equidistant points : so that it may almost be said that the fourth point only, remaia^ to be discovered. The doubling of this fourth and unknown point A. is the great difficulty to be got over ; and it would certainly prove an insurt tountable one, if, as in some charts, the continent of America was found to be united with Old Greenland ; but the circumstance of the wounded whales and the constant current from the northward, render (ae we have already observed) such a supposition highly improbable* .m. We are ftilly aware, that the principal ground of objection to a free communication between the Pacific and the polar basin arises from Captain Cook having found little or no current to the northward of Behring's Strait. Our answer to this is, that there is Uttle or no current in a mill-dam, though its waters may be rushing out with the greatest violence under the ^ood gate. The inclination of. die shores of Asia and America towards each other forms such a dam, into which currents have been observed 'I*- , — t-^ropr^^ ■•MfHi -as?rsr" TW 11' ' ■ 124 APPfiNDIX. 1,..^ to set with exVraordinary "vefocTty along the Wesb coast of America, and the eastern shores of Japan and Kamtschatka. The impenetrable barrier of ice, which stopped the progress of Cook*s successors, may be considered as the temporary head and flood-gate of this dam : ancj as it was eight or ten feet tlbme, it rould not be less than fifty or sixty feet below the surrfacie of the sea : bat the water was more than a hundred fiset deep below this, . Wording ample space for its escape, which it ruight do with great velocity, without being in the smallest degree perceptible on the surface. It would be difficult to explain the perpetual egress of a current from the polar basin hito the Atlantic, which is a well authenticated fact, without admittilig a supply through the only remaining opening into that ^astti, to answer the demand of that current : those Svho could suppose the melting of the ice to afford such a supply, would betray a total ignorance of the very little influence which an arctic sumnflrer exerts on fields of ice, perpetually surrounded, as they are, with a chifly, and ttiostly with a freezing atmosphere created b}- them- selves. Besides, the southerly current setting m'lo the Atlantic on both sides of Greenland is perpetual, not only when the ice is melting, but a'so "when the sea is freezing. Lieutenant P*f ty, of the navy. In returning last year from Halifax, met with an island of ice more than a hundred and "fifty feet high, and two others of ti smaller size in latitude 44° 21' Ncrth, so early as the 2d of April. These ice-bergs must have floated out of the polar basin in the tniddle of winter, unless they stopped by the ^rny. It has been suggested, we believe, that the disproportion of the opening into the Polar basin through Behring's Strait, and those out of it through Davis's Strait, and between Greenland and 'Spitzbergen, is fatal to the theory we have assumed: but when .; L \j^ #: P APPENDIX. 125 we reflect on the rast disproportion that occurs in the breadth of rivers in different paits of their course, and that u^here wid-^st they are very often found to be deepest, the objection, we think, will not be deemed conclusive, especially if it should be found, as we apprehend it will, that the currents Of the ocean, where no laud intervenes, kre entirely superficial. The Gulf streatn between the Bahamas and East Florida is tery little y^der, and perhaps not much deeper, than Behring's Strait; and y^t the water rushing through this paiisage is of Sufficieriit force and quantity to put the wliole northern Atlantic in motion, and to make its influence to be felt in the distant strait of Gibraltar, and on the more distant coast of Africa. It must also be recollected that several of the largest rivers of Asia, and tWo or three of North America, discharge a very copious supply of water into the pckr basin. The same circumstance of whales i^truck wicft harpoons in the sea of Spitzbergen, or in the Strait of jDa.ia, being found on the north-westward coast of America, as far dwn as NoOtka Sound, affc- ds an additional argument for a free c ommunication between the Atlantic aad Pacific : unless it shoiJd be contended that such wounded whales took the long an'i circuitous route by Cape Horn. It was a f?ct of this kind which, at a very early period, led to the conjecture of a passage from the sea of Japan to the northrirn Atlantic. Hamel says, * In the sea to the North-easl of Korea, they take every year a great number of whales, in some of which are found harpoons and stri'-ing irons of the French and Dutch, who practise the whalfi fishery at the ex- tremities of Eli -ope : whence we infer (he adds) that there is Kk r mm^gmmmmmmm 126 APPEISDIX. I' J surely a passage between Korea and Japan whicb communicates to the Strait of Waigatz/ The cause of failure in every attempt, either to make the " passage* or to ascertain its impracticability, appears of no difficult . explanation. Owing to the great depth at which ice floats in water, it must take the ground at a considerable distance from the shore, where as we have already observed, it becomes a nucleus tor floating patches to form round it ; and the summer sun having little power on such enormous masses, they accumup> late in magnitude, and spread over a wider surface, from year to year ; and if large fragments were not frequently torn from them and borne away by the currents, the whole surface of the '"■ straits and narrow seas would in process of time be covered with ice. Owing to this circumstance, we find the bays and harbors of Newfoundland, of Nova Scotia, and Cape Breton, the Strait of Belleisle, and the shores of the islands in the Gulf St. Lawrence, every year choked up with ice, though all of them are more to the southward than London. The more northerly straits and islands, which form the passages into Hudson's Bay, are of course never free from mountains and patches of ice : and yet all the navigators, proceeding on discovery, have either entered these straits, and had to struggle against the ice and currents, and tides on the east coast of America, or have kept so close to the land on the west coast of Greenland, as to encounter the same obstacles : so that, on the former, the highest point ever reached is the 67th parallel; which is three or four degrees short of the point A. near which, as \ve have before stated, the north-eastern extremity of America may be acted to be found. v\ :^K' vrrr Hi \i >- .Hi APPENDIX. 127 The mid-channel of Davis's Strait, on the contrary, is knowa , at particular seasons to be free of ice in much higher latitudes. The master of the Larkins above-mentioned, after passing the ice and reaching the latitude 75|'^ North, the coast of Greenland - then in sight to the eastward, stood from hence to the westward, in that parallel, three hundred miles, the sea entirely free, with . the exception of here and there a detached ice-berg floating to the southward. At this point he observed a yellow sky, or what is usually termed the land-blinky to the south-west. The position of the ice, however, is constantly changing The same year the James, of Whitby, meeting with a comppct body of ice in latitude 75°, turned back and came home; but the Larkins, as we before stated, persevered and got through, when she proceeded as high as 77* found plenty of whales, and the sea clear of ice. \\ Spitzbergen is usuelly surrounded with ice : but the sea to the northward is generally so open, thr it is a prevailing idea among the whale fishers, that there would be no difficulty of approaching the pole from that quarter. The late Mr. Daines Barrington collected much curious information on this noint, and was so well satisfied of the practicability of approach :, the pole, that he prevailed on the president and council of the Royal Society to recommend to Lord Sandwich a voyage of discovei)^^ lO'vards the North pole : the suggestion was adopted, and the command of the expedition given to Captain Phipps (afterwards Lord Mul- grave) who obviously failed by getting entangled in the ice neo Spitzbergen. It is this accumulation of ice round the land, rather than the degree of latitude, that causes the extreme cold and tempestuous weather about Spitzbergen and NovaZembla: * it is not the neernesse of theNorthpole,' says De Veer, in hk % 1 I- 128 APPINDIX. „t .^)k.' ■.->'£>&- tf-.^. J^' I preface to Barentz's Three Voyages, * 'nit the Ice that cometh in and out from the Tartarian sea that cauaeth us to feel the greatest cold.' Instead therefore of coming near the land, or endeavouring to pass through narrow straits; it will be prudent to avoid the land, and to keep as much as posi^ible in the open sea, and in or near the edge of the current, where the sea may be expected to be free. T^^'s last year the Ni^otune, of Aberdeen, before mentioned, reached the latitude jf 33° 30' in the sea of Spitsbergen, which is within four hundred miles of the pole, the sea open and clear of ice : Dr. Gregory found the master » clear-headed, cautious aeanian, and supplied with the ordinary instruments for nautical purposes. We have heard of several other whalers who reached beyond 81° North. t U i I"' \ The ""rface of the sea, in fact, is not easily frozen in any latitude ; the thermometer of Fahrenheit must be down to 27° before a pellicle of ice can be formed ; and it will not form even 9t zero, unless the weather be calm and the surfkce unruffled ; and then only what the whalers call pancake ice. We have frequently the mercury in Fahrenheit's thermometer below zero, yet who ever saw the English channel frozen over, or any part of the Atlantic on this side? It is the narrow seas only, and those vrithout tides or currents^ that freeze over. The ice-bergs, or monntaim of tee, are generated on the land, either in valleys, or against steep shores; they are avalanches: and it is a remark- able ^t, that all the ice, bpoagbt by the South-wfbf current round Spitzbergen, is field-ice; whilst that which comes down DavisV Strait is m«>untain-kek It ie on this ground that we have marked on the dii^raio the ondefined land, which has beea named NeW' Siberia, as the probable source of ice-bergs. \\ . 4 ■^"^ / # APPENDIX. 199 and if this be so» the sea, through which these majssy mountains float, must be open ; and where they can float, a ship will find no difHculty in sailing. If whole fleets bound to and from Arch- angel annually double the North Cape in the 72d or 73d parallel, without interruption from ice, why should the polar basin be obstructed in the same or in lower latitudes? Captain Cook was well aware that the ice in Behring's Strait was not perma^ nently fixed, and would probably have succeeded the following year in passing into the basin had his life been spared. It is well known that the Strait of Belleisle is one day so closed up that waggons may pass it, and the next so open, that no ice is to be seen : the same may be the case with Behring's Strait. Lieu- tenant Kotzebue, it seems, has found no difficulty in passing this strait, nor in entering a deep bay beyond it ; to what extent hir discoveries may subsequently have proceeded, we have yet to learn. Not a word is mentioned in h> i report of obstruction from ice, which would appear, indeed, to have also broken up in this eastern quarter, from the multitude of white bears which infested the peninsula of Kamtschatka^ at the time when they usually seek their food on the ice, the resort of seals and sea-horses in the spring. The Russians have for some time been strongly im« pressed with the idea of an open passage round America ; and the Kamtschatka frigate, commanded by Captain Golovnin, who was a prisoner in Japan, has proceeded on the same discovery, at the public expence, which Kotzebue is t nployed on by the private libe* rality of Count RomanzofT. It would be somewhat mortifying, if a naval power but of yesterday should complete a discovery in tlie nineteenth eenturyj which was so happily commenced by English- men in the sixteenth ; and another Vespuciie run away with the honours due to a Columbus. There is, however, little to fear on / 1.1 ■ •1 ■ n»5!"~ I 130 AJ?FENDIX. m this score. Two exp<3ditionf*, of two small ships each, are fitting out for northern discoveries and scientific researches ; the one, we understand, is to proceed joortherly into the polar basin, and to endeavour, by passing close to the pole, to make a direct course to Behring'd Strait; the other is to push through Davis's Strait for the north-east coast of America ; and, if successful in discovering and doubling the unknown point A. to proceed to the westward, with the view of passing Behring's Strait. .£ From one or both of these expeditions lively hopes are en- tertained, that this curious and impcitant problem in geography, which engaged the attention of our early navigators, will be solved ; and, if a practicable passage does exist, that it will not much longer remain undiscovered. The character of the several officers who have been appointed, and the men of science who, we understand, are to embark on this grand enterprise, and the means in preparation, afford the strongest presumption, that what- ever talent, intrepidity, and perseverance can accomplish will be effected. ^. ,.„..,„.. „^^, ^^ „ » \ Four merchant-vessels have been hired, and rendered as strong as wood and iron can make them. Their names are the Isabella and the Alexander, the Dorothea and the Trent ; the first two being intended to proceed up Davis's Strait, under the command of Captain Ross ; the other two by the route of the north pole, under Captain Buchan, and all four to make the best of their way to ^ehring's Strait. The Alexander and the Trent are two brigs, the former commanded by Lieutenant Parry, the latter by Lieutenant Franklyn, with a junior lieutenant to^ach of the four vessels, and two midshipmen, who have served their time and ■*.. '$:r 1 •' ,ip APPENDIX. 131 ,,*■ • passed their examinations, one assistant-surgeon, and a purser. To each vessel have also been appointed a master and a mate, well experienced in the navigation of the Greenland seas and Davis*s Strait who are to act as pilots among the ice. All the men to be employed on this bold and hazardous enterprize are to .'be volunteers, and both they and the officers are to receive double pay. Every preparation has been made of fresh provisions, wine, spirits, medicine, and warm clothing, in the event of their being .obliged to winter in the ice, or on the coast of America. Captain Ross was long and actively employed in the Baltic, and, having twice wintered there, is well trained to the cold and the ice ; he has also been as far to the northward as Cherry, or Bear island in the Greenland seas. Lieutenant Parry, who accom- panies him, served for several years on the coast of America, is an excellent navigator, theoretical as well as practical, and has pub- lished a valuable treatise, for the use of the young officers in the fleet, on nautical astronomy. Captain Buchan is an active and enterprizing officer, who for many years has been accustomed to the navigation of the icy seaii in the neighbourhood of Newfound- land and received his promotion to the rank of commander for his zeal and good conduct on that station. He also made a land Journey, over ice and snow, into the very heart of Newfoundland, |h order to obtain un interview with the natives, being the first European who ever ventured among them. Lieutenant Frunklyn, who accompanies him as second in this expedition, was brought up under the late Captain Flinders, and is well acquainted with nautical surveying and the use of instruments The junior lieut- enants in each of the brigs are the sons of two eminent artists^, and both good draughtsmen, the one the son of tlie late Mr. '•J •■ # m. ■■•■T- 132 APPENDIX Hoppner, who conducted Lord Amherst and his party in the open boats to Batavia, after tlie wreck of the Alceste; the other of the present Sir WiUiam Beechy. lit \ \ i ? 1 'in liii It probably may not strike the reader at first, that die distance from Shetland islands to Behiing's Strait, by pursuing the route of Davis's Strait, and supposing a passage along the northern coast of America, on the parallel of 7^ is just halt as long again as that from the same point on a meridian passing through the pole ; sucb^ however is the case; the former being 1,572 leagues, and the latter only 1,048 leagues. The distance by the polar route, from the mouth of the Thames to Canton, is much less than half o£ that by the usual track round the Cape of Good Hope, being only 3,598 leagues, while the other is 5,500 leagues. If an open navigation should be discovered across the pohur basin, the passage over the pole, or close to it, will be one of the most interesting events to science that ever occurred. It will be the first time that the problem was practically solved with which the learners of geography are sometimes puzzled — that of going the shortest way between two places, lying east and west of each other by taking a direction north and vMMitb. The passagre of the pole will require the undivided attention of the navigator. On approaching this point, from which the northern coasts 4f Europe, Asia, and America, and every part of them, will bear south of him, nothing can possibly assist him in determining his course, and keeping on the right meridian of his destined place, but a correct knowledge of the iime, and yet no means of ascei- taining that time will be affi>rded him. The only tiim he can have with any degree of cer^nty, as loog as he remains on or m il » !^'^! i'i 4 •S^-,v. ;il .:m- ■:\: •s^ APPENDIX. m near the pole, must be that of Greenwich, iind this he can know only from good chronometers — for, from the general hazy state of the atmosphere and particularly about the horizon, and the sameness in the altitude of the sun at every hour in the four-and- twenty, he must not expect to obtain an approximation even of the apparent time, by observation, and he will have no stars to assist him. All his ideas, respecting the heavens and the reckoning of his time will be reversed, and the change not gradual a*, in proceeding from Jfthe east or the west, or the contrary, but instantaneous. The magnetic needle will point to its unknown magnetic pole, or fly round from the point of the bowl in which it is suspended, and that which indicated north will now be south ; the east will become the west, and the hour of noon will be that of midnight. . m- . "ft f-t'^''- ,'«7a w »B^^.- These curious circumstances will probably be considered to mark the passage by the pole as the most interesting of the two, while it will perhaps be found equally easy. We have indeed very little doubt, that if the polar basin sliould prove to be free from land about the pole, il; will also be free of ice. A sea of more than two thousand miles in diameter, of unfathomable depth (which is the case between Greenland and Spitzbergen) and in constant motion is not likely to be frozen over at any time. But if all endeavours to discover a passage to the Pacific by either route should prove unavailing, it will still be satisfactory to have removed every doubt on the subject by ascertaining the fact. In making the attempt, many objects, interesting and important to science, will present themselves to the observation of those who are engaged in the two expeditions. That which proceeds up Davis's Strait will have an opportunity of adjusting the geography of the north-east coast of America, and the west coast of Green- N n d ^if 134 APPEHDIX. i ? i! land ; and of ascertaining tvhether the latter be not ah islifiVld dir *■ an archipelago of islands; and itoucfa curious information may be expected from both. They >ivil! ascertaia— what is as yet but very imperfectly known— the depth, the temperature, the saltneM, and the specific gravity of the fiiea-water in those high latitudes — i$ the velocity of the currents, the state of atmosphferica! electricity in the arctic regions, and its connexion, at which we have glanced, with the inclination, declination, and intensity of force of the magnetic needle, on which subject iAorit a collection of ifactNP towards the u|^er part of Davis's Strait wouM be worth a voyage of discovery. It has indeed long been suspected, that one of the magnetic poles will be found in this neighbouiiiood, as ih tio part of the world have such extraordinary phenomena been observed, or such irregularities in the vibration and variation of the needle. Captain Muirhead before quoted, states that, by several good observations, he found the variation in latitude 75** 30' no less than eight points ; that is to say, when Ihe sun tvas on the meridian at midnight the needle pointed to the east. A com- parison of the magnetic influence near the pole with what it has been observed to be on the equator, might lead to important results ; and the swinging of a pendulum as near to the pole as can be approached, to compare with the oscillations observed in the Shetland Islands and in the southern hemisphere, tvouM be a great point gained for science. END OF TH£ APPENDIX. Hajrden, Priatcr, Siydcct Strwt, Covtnt Ganka. iiU.a ^^^-'^ :l ■^ '^ 4 f :•' ■*■■ ..*■• h -. . 5\ ^