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WA.I^Z'TAdT /2':Z SZ£ SffiM. Psd&^Jfy S.£. '.TiiSii^ LutdDn. /S2£ . \ NARRATIVE OK ,\N EXPEDITION TO THE SOURCE OF ST. PETER'S RIVER, LAKE WINNEPEEK, LAKE OF THE WOODS, &c. PERFORMED IN THE YEAR 1823, BY URDER OF THE HON. J. C. CALHOUN, SECRKtAKr Of WAH, L'NDER THE COMMAND OF STEPHEN H. LONG, U.8.T.E. COSII-ILED FROM THE NOTES OF MAJOR LONG, Meun. SAV. KEATING. & COLHOUN, By WILLIAM H. KEATING, A.M. &c. P/nfeuw I)/ Mineralogy and Chemistry, an applied to the Arte, in the UniverMily »/ Vnnnsylvania i Geologitt and Historiographer to the Expedition, IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. rmtdfy S. ftnner. LONDON: PRINTED FOR GEO. B. WHITTAKER, AVE-MARIA-LANE. 1825. I ( I I LONDON: I'lllNTEl) BT COX AND LAYLIS, GKAET QUtEK STR£EX, b'> TO JAMES MONROE. PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, THIS WORK, CONTAINING THE RESULT OF OBSERVATIONS, MADE ON AN EXPEDITION UNDERTAKEN UNDER HIS ADMINISTRATION Is VERY RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED BY THE AUTHORS. I'RIET. PREFACE. In offering this work to the piibHc, the com- piler regrets that it has been dehiyed longer than was originally intended ; the difficulties which he has encountered in the performance of a task for which he was entirely unprepared, afford him his only apologies. Inexperienced in the art of writ- ing for the public, it is probable that he has fallen into many errors, which, with more time, he might have avoided ; but works of the nature of this admit of little delay. Narratives of voyages of discoveries lose much of their interest if the publication be long deferred. The principal object which the compiler had in view, was to unite the documents confided to him, so as to present a faithfid description of the coun- try over which the party travelled, and of the few adventures which interrupted the monotony of a journey through a wilderness. It may be well to state, that the historical part of the narrative, together with the topographical and much of the descriptive matter, has been A 4 VIU PREFACE. i'l il 111 il ' I I drawn from Major Long's notes. Mr. Colhoinrs manuscripts, besides contributing to the same departments, and yielding the astronomical obser- vations, have been very valuable in furnishing the greater part of the references to older writers. The comparisons between the observations made by our party and the assertions of former tra- vellers, are almost entirely due to that gentleman. From Mr. Say's notes, all that relates to the zoo- logy and botiiny of the country traversed has been obtained, as well as much of the matter relating to the Indians. This last department has been com- pleted from the compiler's own notes, which have likewise furnished the geological observations. Besides which, the journals kept by each of the gentlemen have frequently completed the obser- vations made by some other member of the party. It has been deemed unnecessary to state, in all cases, by whoui the observations were made or recorded. This has, however, been done when- ever the facts appeared sufficiently interesting to require that the names of the observers should be annexed to them. As Major Long's report to the War Department presents a concise summary of the general features of the country visited by the party, it has been thought advisable to introduce it as a conclusion to the nariiLtive. Having been ordered to the Ohio to make an experiment to improve its naviga- .ij[ PREFACE. IX tion, according to the provisions of a late act of congress, Major Long was absent from Philadel- phia during the preparation of that part of the manuscript which follows the three first chapters of the first volume. This may account for some of the inaccuracies which the work will be found to contain : it is hoped that by his presence they would have been avoided. The compiler has found it impossible, in the de- scription of the scenery of the Mississippi, &c. to avoid the introduction of several words, which, al- though they are not sanctioned by the dictionaries, seem to be characteristic and essential in such de- scriptions : of this nature are the words — bluff, prairie, &c. The term creek, being used in dif- ferent acceptations in England and America, has been avoided in all cases, though with some incon- venience. The word run will, it is believed, be found but once in the body of the work. Lest any false impression should be drawn from the introduction of the term estuary t it may be proper to state, that it has been inadvertently used in several cases to designate the outlets of streams where the tides do not reciprocate. In compiling from notes written by many persons under the dis- advantages of fatigues, hardships, and privations, it is not easy, however it may be desirable, to avoid the use of all objectionable terms ; for these and other inaccuracies which the work may con- I r Ml i i' J\ X PUEFACE. tain, the compiler must plead in excuse the diffi- culties to which he has previously alluded. The greater part of the Appendix will be found to have been prepared by Mr. Say. The loss which he experienced of the skins of many birds, quadrupeds, and fish, which he had collected, has prevented him from describing several new animals. It is believed, that if none of the shells collected had been lost, the amount of new species described would have been much greater. The plants pre- served by Mr. Say were placed in the hands of Mr. Lewis D. Von Schwcinitz, who kindly under- took to describe them : the result of his valuable observations will be found in the Appendix. With a view to give an idea of the climate of the country described, as well as to compare it with other places whose climate has been ascertained by older observations, the interesting tables pre- pared by Dr. Joseph Lovell, surgeon-general of the United States* army, have been introduced, with his general observations upon the same. They are compiled from the records kept at the various military posts. The climate of Philadelphia has been established by the results of the obser- vations made by Mr. Reuben Haines, at his resi- dence in German-town, six miles from Philadelphia; the great care which Mr. Haines bestows upon his observations, make them a fit term of comparison for all others. The introduction of these tables 'M tj tl i^^ PREFACE. XI use the diffi- ded. nil be found The loss many birds, )ilected, has ew aninials. Us collected 3S described i plants pre- e hands of tidly under- lis valuable idix. With ate of the ire it with iscertained tables pre- general of itroduced, the same. 3pt at the liladelphia he obser- his resi- adelphia; upon his mparison se tables has superseded the necessity of recording the variations of temperature observed by our party — they were principally noted by Mr. Seymour. It may be proper, however, to state that, valua- ble as are the results contained in the meteorolo- gical tables, they can only be considered as approxi- mations, because an uniform method of making observations has not yet been adopted. Those who are conversant with thermometrical observa- tions know what influence the situation in which the instrument is exposed, and the materials of which it is constructed, exercise upon the results which it indicates, and how guarded we ought to be in adopting comparisons made with different instruments, and placed in different situations. Of the influence of the materials, the party had an opportunity of convincing theniselves, by placing two of Mr. Keating's thermometers in the same situation with that of the surgeon at Fort St. An- thony. The latter instrument consisted of a glass tube attached to a brass plate, on which the gra- duation was marked. One of Mr. Keating*s was known to be a good instrument ; it had been made in Paris, and had its graduation on a slip of paper enclosed in a glass tube : the other thermometer was a small pocket one, made by Mr. Fisher, of Philadelphia, and was provided with an ivory plate. The usual exposure of the surgeon's ther- mometer was to the south-west ; the two otiiers I '1 ',\ Hi XII PREFACE. were placed near it. The results arc indicated in the following table : Fisher's. French. Surgeon's. July 4th, at noon 9I0 89" 99" Fah. Do. at 3 o'clock p.m. 960 ^^"^ lOG" do. Do. at 8 do. ... 78« 78° 73" do. July 8th, at 4 do. ... 119*' 118° 128" do. This proved that when exposed to the direct rays of the sun, or to their reflection by the parade- ground, the thermometer with the brass plate was uniformly ten degrees higher than that made entirely of glass, though at other times it stood at the same elevation. At the time these observations were made, the surgeon was absent. At Fort St. Anthony, the thermometer was ex- posed to the south-west ; at other posts we have seen it facing the east. Sometimes the instruments were protected from, at other times they were exposed to, the rays of the sun. There can be no doubt that some variations must arise from these causes ; and we think it, therefore, desirable, in order to give the greatest value to the observa- tions made at all the garrisons in the United States, that the surgeons bhould be provided, at the public expense, with instruments of uniform and approved construction ; and that the observations should be made under circumstances as nearly similar as the great diversity in the situations of these posts will admit. Notwithstanding the va- ,111 ; I'llKFACK. Xlll indicated in ich. Surgeon's. '" 99" Fall. " 10G° do. '^ 73" do. " 128« do. the direct / the parade- iss plate was that made s it stood at observations !ter was ex- ts we have instruments they were J can be no from these esirable, in le observa- he United ded, at the tiform and >servations as nearly nations of g the va- riations produced by the causes to which we have alluded, we consider these tables as being very interesting, inasmuch as they afford the first com- parative results upon the United States in general ; embracing an immense extent of country, and including great diversities of climate. We deem it but justice to state, that the obser- vations which Messrs. Say and Keating made con- cerning the manners, &c. of the Indian tribes which they met, were greatly assisted by the va- luable notes, furnished to them by the American I Philosophical Society, and which where chiefly prepared by Peter S. du Ponceau, Esq., one of the ^ Vice-Presidents of the Society ; Professor Robert Walsh, Jun., one of the Secretaries ; and by Dr. Samuel Brown, Professor of the Practice of Physic in the Transylvania University. In conclusion, the compiler has much pleasure in acknowledging the great obligations under which he lies to George Ord, Esq., one of the Vice- Presidents of the Academy of Natural Sciences, and one of the Secretaries of the American Philo- sophical Society, for his assistance in the prepara- ration of this work. Mr Ord's perusal of the greater part of the manuscript, previous to its being put to press, has preserved it from many of the inaccu- racies which it would otherwise have contained. W. H. K. I * 1. i V Note. — The undersigned begs leave to state, that Dr. Brown's name was inadvertently omitted in the Preface to the " Account of an Expedition from Pittsburgh to the Rocky Mountains." The gentlemen of that party were provided with the same notes, which were used on the second Expedition, and which were in both cases found very valuable. THOMAS SAY. II. Mi CONTENTS TO VOLUME I. tale, that Dr. n the Preface Pittsburgh to >f that party vere used oii 1 both cases S SAY. CHAP. 1. Tag. Departure from Philadelphia.— Geology of the AUe- ghanies. — Cumberland Road. — Wheeling I CHAP. n. Zancsville. — Salt and Iron Works. — Columbus. — Piqua. Indian Antiquities. — Ohio Canals. — Fort Wayne .... 28 CHAP. III. Description of Fort Wayne and its Vicinity. — Fur Trade. — Potawatomis 75 CHAP. IV. Carey Mission-house. — Lake Michigan Chicago 139 CHAP. V. Rock River. — Menomones.— Geology of the Country West of Lake Michigan. — Prairie du Chien,— Sauks and Foxes 1 75 CHAP. VI. Prairie du Chien. — Indian Remains. — Division of the Party. Mississippi. — Dacota Villages. — Fort St. Anthony. Falls.— River St. Peter 242 CHAP. VII. Geology of the Mississippi.— The Expedition ascends the St. Peter. — Character of the Country. — Arrival at Lake Travers 314 CHAP. VIII Account of the Dacotas or Sioux Indians. — Their Divisions into Tribes. — Their Numbers, Language, Manners and Customs. — Notice of Wanotan, principal Chief of the Yanktoanan Tribe. — Description of the Columbia Fur Company's EstabHshmcnt on Lake Travers 392 ir LIST OF PLATES. ill ',•1 ill: § I ( ,'1 :^ VOL. I. Page 1 . VVanotan and his Son, Frontispiece. ^i. Map of the Country I 3. Heads ofMetea,&c 84 4. Viewof the Maiden's Rock on Lake Pepin ; 292 5. Dacota and Chippewa Songs 466 VOL. n. (>. View of the Upper Falls of Winnepeek River 96 7. View ofthe Falls of Kakabikka ....^ 134 8. Shells, &c. two Plates Appendix. : \ ,1;; ; > • /T% ■'■• 'J. ' j.:l ■' 1 li .'■ . .■■ ■'. i\ ft! ii lllw B' Page I 84 292 466 96 •••• 134 Appendix, 'fi' ,11: ■' ■ >''j I' jii (. . f. '• (.■ ■ wmmmi nn "ffTJPc'amrtTio M VOL, I. ississippi, which river fuhluvhrd hv (i.n.Whittttker. ,/ir Mann lane, l.ondim. )( ! if'! ! II :; > ^ ttm^ *^"*~T'"^ ■"Titiy'T^T ' 'f r* • A E NAUKATIVi: OF AN KXPKDITION TO THE ^ 80UR(;K or ST. PETER'S RIVER, §r. ,y. §r. C'HAl'TKU I. Drjmrfitrv fiunn Philnililphid. Gcohinf of Uif Alliujhnnies. CiimlH'rhtnd Ihuul. U'hfflin'j. TiiK success whicli attended tlic expedition to the Rocky Mountains, and the iniportatjt int'orniation which it imparted concerning the natnre of the valley drained hy the Missouri and its tributaries, of wliich notliintjf was known but wliat had l)een ol)served by Lewis and Chu'ke, in(hiced the j^'overnnient of the United States to continue its cnch'avoiu's to explore the unknown wilds within its limits. "^Fhc first object which api)eared to it deservlni? of invcstiy^ation was the tract of country bounded by the Missouri, the Mississippi, and the Northern Bounchu'y of the United States. This triangular section includes about three huiulred miles of longitude, and seven hundred of latitude. 'I'he late expedition, luuler the command of Governor Cass, had explored the southern shore of Lake Superior to the mouth of St. Louis river, and the water eomnumication between Fond du Lac and the Mississippi, which rivt r VOL. I. n r* KXI'KOIIKJN TO llli: l<^ lit I If he ascended to tlje Upper Red Cedar or Cassiua Lake, and then descended to the mouth of the VVisconsan. By this journey much light was thrown upon the history of the Upper Mississippi, which had been previously known only through the fascinating, but imperfect, and in many instances, fabulous accounts of old travellers, and througli the hasty observations of the late General (then Lieut.) Pike, an officer whose zeal made him over- look difficulties which would have arrested a less hardy explorer, but who unfortunately was not provided with the means of making accurate observations. All the later travellers who had visited the Upper Mississippi concurred in mentioning a river, discovered at the end of the 17th century, and known by the name of the St. Peter. This river, which empties itself into the Mississippi at a short distance below the Falls of St. Anthony, had not been visited by any traveller but Carver, whose account of it, published about the year 1778, contains many circumstances which might induce us to question the accuracy of his report. The extent of the fur trade carried on by the British and American trading companies in that part of the countrj', the report of the easy communication between the head of the St. Peter and that of the Red River, whose waters running into Lake Winnepeek finally empty themselves into Hudson's Bay, and the various contradictory reports of the quality of the soil and the nature of the country on Red River, resulting from the conflicting interests of the two rival British companies, made it an object of interest to our government, to ob' tain correct information concerning the country which lies on the St. Peter and the Red River to the 49th parallel of north latitude, as well as to ascertain the i ilH M Cassina Lake, iscon?an. By on the history en previously [iiperfect, and old travellers, s late General ade him over- 'd a less hardy provided with s. :d the Upper er, discovered 1 by the name ies itself into le Falls of St. traveller but •out the year might induce )y the British part of the ition between Red River, peek finally the various soil and the ug from the 1 companies, ment, to ob' untry which to the 49th scertain the bOUMCK OF ST. PUT Ell s RIVKH. ti nature of the country along our, as yet unsurveyed, northern boundary. Accordingly, it was determined in the spring of 1823, by the Executive, " that an expedition be immediately fitted out for exploring the river St.Peter'sand the coun- try situated on the northern boundary of the United States, between the Red River of Hudson's Bay and Lake Superior." The command of the expedition was entrusted to Major S.H.Long, and he received orders from the War De- partment, dated April 25, 1823, of which the following is an extract : — *' The route of the expedition will be as follows :— » commencing at Philadelphia, thence proceeding to Wheeling in Virginia, thence to Chicago via Fort Wayne, thence to Fort Armstrong on Dubuque's Lead Mines, thence up the Mississippi to Fort St. Anthony, thence to the source of the St. Peter's River, thence to the point of intersection between Red River and the forty -ninth degree of north latitude, thence along the northern boundary of the United States to Lake Supe- rior, and thence homeward by the Lakes. " The object of the expedition is to make a general survey of the country on the route pointed out, together with a topographical description of the same, to ascer> tain the latitude and longitude of all the remarkable points, to examine and describe its productions, animal, vegetable, and mineral ; and to inquire into the charac- ter, customs, &c. of the Indian tribes inhabiting the same."* * Reference was also made to the instructions which were issued by the War Department at the commencement of the Expedition to the Rocky Mountains, an (-"xtract of whirli is inserted in the Journal of that expedition. • B l2 lit 5 ihi f lli^ 4. nXPKIilTKfN TO TIIK Tlie advanced State of tlio season admittinjjf of no delay, tlic necessary |)re|)ararl(/ns for tIieexi)edilion were hasti- ly made, and the party left Philadelphia on the 30th of A|)nl— consistine^of Stki'Hkn H. Long, Major United States' Topographical Engineers, commanding the Ex- pedition — Thomas Sav, Zoologist and Anticpiarv — WiiiLiAM H. Kkating, Mineralogist and (ieologist — Samukl Skymoor, Landscape Painter and Designer. Messrs. Say and KiiAiiNfi were likewise appointed joint literary journalists to the expedition, and charged with the collecting of the rcMpiisite information concerning the names, numhcrs, manners, customs, &c. of the Indian tribes on the route.* * Lieut. Andrkw Talcott of the United States' Topographical Engi- neers, had heen appointed seeond in romtr.and of the expedition, and was to have assisted tlie eoniniandcr in the astronomical and topogniphical depart- ment, hut his servi«!es hcing required in another direcition, James Euwari) Coi.iioUN was appointed astronomer an . soriicK OF >^TP::ri-:us iiivKU. 5 ttiiiii^of no delay, ition were !ia*li- ila on the 30tli iG, Major United landing the Ex- iid Anti(|narv — nid (Geologist — ' and Designer. ! appointed joint d charged with ion concerning IS, &c. of the Topoprapliical Eiigi- xpedition, and was to opograpliicul depart- ion, James Euward )grai)li«;r, ami leaving a), wliere he joined < the lloeky Moun- appointed botanist, ce of which, orders the i)arty at Wheel - might have already ippi (to which j-ost a view to stop him, nd when the j)arty Jie remained nntil it iinate circumstance ve officer. An ap- Dr. James from officer to obtain a ent of Mr. Keating •ved for Dr. James. wiiieh was mucJi m^. The party travelled in light carriages from Philadel- phia to Wheeling, where they disposed of them and pnrchased horses in exchange. This part of the journey was performed in eleven days. The usual route through Lancaster, Columhia, York, and Cettyshin-gh, was tra- velled. Here they left the Pittshnrgh turnpike-road and reached Hagerstown in Maryland hy a crossroad ; from Hagerstown they continued along the Maryland turn- pike-road to Cumherland, where it unites with the national road, upon which they travelled to Wheeling. From Philadelphia to Wheeling, the Geologist has an opportunity of ohserving almost every formation, from the old primitive to the coal strata. On leaving Phi la- del i)hia, the primitive soon disappears, and is replaced hy the transition limestone, which is of a hlue colour, very nuich intermixed with quartz in veins running through the nuiss. There are also patches of white liniestonc which are ohserved in sundry places, and which, hcing of a highly crystalline character, might al- most induce us to rank thisi limestone as primitive. We find occasionally hreaking through the limestone, hills composed of amphiholic rocks; this accident is more frequent as we approach the Brandywine. These hills are very readily discernible from the inidnlations of the limestone country, hy the difference in their out- ward form, which in the limestone hills is mammillary, constituting low and rounded swells ; while the amphi- holic hills are steep, and covered with a wilder vegeta- tion. Beyond Lancaster, the rocks assume a slaty appearance, which increased as we approached the Sus- to be regretted. IVIr, Say undertook however to collect such plants as might appear to iiim interesting, but witli tliat diffidence with which a man will undertake a task witli wiiieli hetloes not profess to be convers;u|t. V I ■-V/ 6 KXFEUITION TO THK t : I •; / \ f I I I, is li (1^ i it' I :: » !»»- ii^lf^-^ i ;* i quehannah. At Columbia we had an opportunity of observing the rock as it is laid bare in the bed of the river. It there appears to be the red sandstone, and is that mentioned by Mr. Maclure in his observations on the geology of the United States. It constitutes part of a red sandstone formation, which crosses through the states of New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Maryland, and Vi^;- ginia. This formation extends in a general north- easterly direction. The rock appears to be nearly hori- zontally stratified, but from the slight inclination which it presents to the north, the strata are presumed to ex- tend in a north-east and south-west direction. The limestone and red sandstone, with its accompany- ing red slate, alternately appear on the west side of the Susquehannah. The limestone is generally found in the valleys, and tho sandstone upon the acclivities of the hills, which are generally crowned with small patches of trap. This rock occurs, however, only upon the higher hills, where it seems to have protected the sandstone from decomposition. On approaching Millerstown, the country assumes a more broken appearance ; the limestone ceases, and the indications of crystallization are visible in the rocks. Millerstown (sometimes called Fairfield) is situated on the eastern side of, and at no great distance from that ridge which is generally called the South mountain, and which may be considered as the most eastern of the parallel ridges, which constitute the great chain of the Alleghany mountains, at least in the southern part of Pennsylvania. In the vicinity of this place, there are masses of a calcareous breccia, in every respect similar to that found on the Potomac, and which has acquired of late a well-merited celebrity, on account of its having •4 m w ii ■■■.V j:()l UCK OH ST. I'ETKU S KlVliR. opportunity of the bed of the •andstone, and b observations on stitutes part of a es through the irylaud, and Vi^;- general north- » be nearly hori- iiclination which presumed to ex- iction. 1 its accompany- west side of tlie lerally found in he acclivities of ned with small 'ever, only upon e protected the untry assumes a ) ceases, and the le in the rocks. 1) is situated on ance from that mountain, and eastern of the ;;at chain of the outhern part of lace, there are respect similar h has acquired tit of its having been used for the beautiful columns which adorn the interior of the Capitol, in the City of Washington. This breccia, which is too well known to require des- cription, consists of fragments of limestone of Uiany kinds, differing iu texture, colour, &c., all imbedded in a calcareous cement. Some of these fragments have a fme saccaroidal or subsaccaroidal grain, while others are compact. There are also fragments of white quartz intermixed with those of limestone. The breccia ap- pears to form partial deposits in the coves or valley basins of that vicinity. In the neighbourhood of this town there arc nume- rous indications of the existence of large deposits of copper. The ores of this metal have been found in many places, and excavations were commenced as far back as the year 1/98. Some of the ore obtained at this place was sent to England, where it is said to have been worked to advantage. An attempt was made last year to resume the operations, but with no great suc- cess. The want of a person qualilied to determine as to the best spots at which to commence the excavations, may be considered as the principal obstacle existing at present to the success of these works. The ore hitherto extracted is not sufficiently rich to warrant works to any great extent, but some s|)ecimens which were ana- lysed last year in Mr. Keating's laboratory in the Uni- versity of Pennsylvania, yielded as much as thirty per cent. That the smelting of this ore could be made pro- fitable, if a sufficiency of it were obtained, appears from the circumstance, that a ton of the ore which was sent to Centre county, to be reduced at one of the iron works, yielded about three hundred weight of metal. li 4 8 Jixi'EornuN TO riiii H 'K' ^1 i, -,> The ore discovered iu this vicinity varies, but is for the most purt u mixture of the oxi(hile, (red oxide,) with the green carbonate, the hydrate, the copper py- rites, the sulphuret of copper, and grey copper ore. Tlie whole of it appears very much intermixed with siliceous matter. These masses of copper ore are in a talcose slate — they are to be observed every where. Doubts exist as to the manner in which thev lie : the sides of the excavations had sunk in so much, at the time the party passed through, that it was not in their power to determine that question : from the information which was received, it would appear probable, that the ore has been worked, in one place at least, on a vein running nearly east and west. The rock, as has been observed, is atalcose slate, which in some places appears to be penetrated with copper ])yrites. These mines all lie in a hill known bv the name of Jack's mountain ; upon the top of which a porphyritic rock occurs. The crystals are of felspar ; the cement is of a red colour, .and appears to be compact felspar, (petrosilvx palaio- petre of de Saussure ;) besides the crystals of fel- spar, there are some of quartz and probably of mica. This porphyry appears ])rincipally upon the east side of the mountain towards the top — no indications of stratification were observable. The porphyry constitutes probably a subordinate formation in the talcose slate which reappears on the crest of the hill, and is there very abundantly studded with small crystals, which are presumed to be epidote. In descending on the west side of Jack's mountain, the blue limestone reappears, very distinctly stratified, the strata running north-east and south-west ; it dips in most places about 80^ to the south-east. The dip varies, however, bting only in ,8 iittio V^li^ SOLRCK OF ST. 1»KTEU S UIVEK. 9 iries, but is foi* e, (red oxide,) the copper py- iy copper ore. itermixed with er ore are in a every where. I they lie ; the > much, at the as not in their he information bable, that the ;ast, on a vein <, as has been places appears hese mines all k's mountain ; occurs. The a red colour, rosilea; palaio- ystals of fel- ably of mica, the east side ndications of n's constitutes talcose slate and is there lis, which are on the west ne reappears, ig north-east mt 80" to the )tini»' only in some places about 30", as may be very ted by the appearance of the blue limestone in the transverse valleys of the Big and Little Conolaway Creeks. This slate differs very much from SOURCK OK ST. PKI'KHS IllVkH. 11 )ck bare, so as to e see a great va- ' which however <^ ■ir«. 12 KXPKDiriON TO TIIK (I'mtrict, varies in its dip ; sunu'liinos inclining to the south-cast, and at other times to the north west. In one spot we observed tlie change in the dip produced by a very gentle undulation, without any disturbance or in- terruption of the stratification. Incumbent on this slate, is a limestone of a bluish colour, presenting signs of or- ganic remains, and constituting Martin's Hill, which is one of the highest in the range. This limestone appears at iirst to be horizontally stratified, after which it as- sumes an inclined position, and on ascending becomes nearly vertical, while the top of the hill is crowned with large masses of limestone, (|uite free from stratification, and presenting only a very irregular division. Upon the summit of the mountain the limestone is cavernous, and contain'* many organic remains, auioiig Avhich the Terabratula and I'roductus arc chiefly tSiScernible. It is filled with veins of crystalline carbonate of lime, which in some places assumes regular forms. From Cumberland to Wheeling the geology of the country is much simplified. The coal formation predo- minates witiiout any interruption. It consists merely of alternating strata of slate-ci iv, sandstone, limestone, and coal. Of these the sandstone is the most abundant ; it is generally fine-grained, composed principally of fragments of quartz connected by a siliceous cement. In some cases there is much mica, and at times a little felspar, so as to constitute in local formations a regenerated granite, not unlike that observable in the coal basin of St. Etienne in France ; but these are ra- ther mineralogical curiosities, and can scarcely be con- sidered as forming a feature in the geology of this part of the route. The stratification is nearly horizontal, and is verv distinct wherever the slate-clav i^ found : i!'! f V- 'I ■J :fi •SOIMUK OF tT. PKTKU S JHVKU. 13 iiiciiiiing to the rth west. In one i produced by a stiirbancc or in- cnt on this shite, ting- signs of or- 's Hill, which is nestone a[)|)curs ter which it as- ending becomes is crowned with ►ni stratification, [livision. Upon ne is cavernous, iio;:g M'hich the discernible. It jonate of lime, I'nis. geology of the rniation predo- sists merely of Jne, limestone, nost abundant; principally of iceous cement. t times a little formations a crvable in the t these are ra- tircely be con- y of this part ly horizontal, clay is found: but where this rock i> 1 *•■ ' 1 i I 16 KXPKDirrON TO TTIK twelve inches loni^, ami lie parallel to the stratifieatioti of the rock. At the hill over M'hich the national road passes, in the immediate vicinity of Wheeling, the sand- stone is about fifty or sixty feet in height, divided into layers of variable thickness: over this is a stratum of coal, eight feet thick. In this coal, as well as in the ac- companying slate, there are many remains of vegetables converted into pure charcoal, and entirely free from bitumen. These, though numerous, are too imperfect to allow of determining the species to which they be- long. This bed, as well as the other parallel ones, when not too much intermixed with pyrites, is worked by galleries running into the hill. The works are very carelessly carried on and the waste of coal is great. The propping is very rough and unsafe ; frecjucnt accidents occur from this circunistance. The ventilation is not understood, and many works have been abandoned from the foulness of the air, no attempt being made to correct It. No inconvenience has as yet been experienced from the inflammable gases; but the carbonic acid and the gaseous oxide of carbon are very abundant. This bed of coal is separated from a superior one by a bed of slate-clay of cibout three feet in thickness, which from its unsoundness is always worked at the same time as the upj)er and lower beds of coal ; al- though the upper coal be but six or eight inches thick and of a very inferior quality; but in this manner a safer roof is obtained for ^he excavation. The limestone is considerably affected by the pyrites, and being in some places, as we were informed, mag- nesian, it gives rise to sulphate of magnesia, which might also prol)ably be worked to advantage. The py- n lie stratification 10 national road celini^, the sand- ;^ht, divided into is a stratum of veil as in the ae- ins of vegetables tirelv free from e too imperfect which they bc- r parallel ones, yrites, is worked ? works are very id is great. The LMjncnt accidents entilation is not abandoned from made to correct xperieneed from nic acid and the mt. superior one by ■t in thickness!, worked at the Is: of coal ; al- ht inches thick this manner a by the pyrites, Informed, mag- tignesia, which jtage. The i>y- SOUKCK OF ST. PBTEU's RIVER. 17 ritous beds of limestone are only such as come into con- tact with the coal, the superior strata are said to be quite free from it. The only circumstance worth mentioning concerning the coal mines is, that they have frequently been on fire, and that there are many indications of conflagrations at a remote period, probably caused by tlie spreading of the fires lighted at the surface by the Indians, to fa- cilitate their hunting. From these conflagrations the slate is, in many places, observed to be quite altered in its appearance, so as to resemble porcelain jasper in its characters. No iron ore has been found in this neighbourhood, and we looked in vain for indications of the argillaceous carbonate of iron, so usually to be met with in coal fields. We were informed that, at some distance from the town, large quantities of iron ore had been dis- covered, but which, from the characters ascribed to it, we were induced to believe were not the argillaceous carbonate, but the oxide and hydrate of iron. Having thus presented in one connected view the various geological observations which were made on this part of the route, we return to notice the other in- teresting circumstances which attracted the attention of our party. The route which we travelled is far more interesting to the general observer than that to Pittsburgh ; the country along the Potomac offfers many very fine views, among which none is more remarkable than that from Sideling-hill. The ranges of mountains^ as they then present themselves, strike the traveller in the most fa- vourable manner. The freshness of the vegetation is peculiarly grateful to the t ye in the commencement of VOL. I. (; M M f 18 KXPKDITION TO THK ill im < yi| ii,H I ; ■' ■ ■■•■11 May, and contrasts beautifully with the deep blue of the distant mountains. At times the road winds along the valley j and again it crosses the ridges, offering the greatest variety of scenery, and affording to the artist many views worthy of his pencil ; for while the bottoms abound in rich and smiling prospects, the mountainous parts arrest the attention by their bold and gigantic features, and by the antique forests which cover them. The season in which we commenced our journey was not very favourable ♦^'^ the proper display of vegetation : the frost had not yet disappeared in the mountainous dis- tricts, and the very heavy rains, which had fallen in great abundance this spring, had retarded ail the products of the earth to an unusual degiee ; but the fine blossoms of the dogwood-tree (Cornus florida), which every where met the eye, amply compensated the want of other flowers. Art has done little to add to the charms of the natural scenery, except in the construction of a road. The ques- tion of the propriety of opening, at the national expense, a communication between the Ohio and Potomac, had been so much the subject of discussion, as to make us desirous of observing the mode in which it had been executed, and the too favourable idea, which we are, perhaps, always led to form, of what carries with it a national character, together Avith an account of the im- mense expenditure incurred in the making of this road, had prepared us for a magnificent work. We were therefore somewhat disappointed at the state in which we found it, as it is very inferior in execution to the Maryland-road, which connects with it. There is in the whole of the national road but little to justify the high eulogiums which have been passed upon it. The SOT RCK OF ST. PETKH S IIIVKK. 19 deep blue of the winds along the ges, offering the ing to the artist vhile the bottoms the mountainous old and gigantic ich cover them, our journey was lay of vegetation : mountainous dis- lad fallen in great ill the products of the fine blossoms la), which every 1 the want of other rms of the natural road. The ques- national expense, and Potomac, had )n, as to make us vhich it had been a, which we are, t carries with it a ccount of the im- king of this road, work. We were he state in which execution to the it. There is in ittle to justify the scd upon it. The immense expense, amounting to nearly two millions of dollars (Sp. D. 1,995,000), which has attended its con- struction, can only be accounted for by a reference to the difficulty of making a road across high and steep ridges, which perhaps had not been sufficiently explored, to ascertain the lowest levels and the most accessible points; and, as we think, to the injudicious manner in which the original contracts were given out. We were credibly informed, that in most cases the original under- takers did nothing themselves, but portioned out their contracts to a second set of contractors, and in some cases it happened that the third or fourth set alone performed the work, the other contractors sweeping away immense sums without any labour.* Had the route been properly divided into small lots, and these given only to such as were really qualified to execute Ihe work, no doubt can exist that a considerable saving would have been obtained. The letting of it out into large sections had the disadvantage of making it an object of speculation, and of alarming many who wouM otherwise have offered themselves as contractors. Another cause of the great expense which attended it, was the location of its western end in the valley of Wheeling creek, instead of carrying it over the higl» tend. Some difference of opinion exists in the country as to the propriety of this selection. We were informed by many, that this location had been made, rather with a view to benefit private interests, than with a careful regard for the public good. Certain it is, that the number of bridges which were required in the route throuijh the valley, added very considerably to the ex- * One of these is said to have accumulated in this manner a fortun* of one hundred and twenty thousand doIIar«. ( '2 ■ ■' ■ ■"""f^^. ■■ » l\\\l 20 KXPKDITION TO THE I mi hi !. pcnse of the road. There are no less than seventeen bridges over the niaui creek, within thirteen miles of this valley road. It is bnt justice to observe, that the bridi^esare, for the most part, substantial, well-built, and even elegant in their construction.* A circumstance which enhaticed ninch the expense of the valley road, was the necessity of propping it in many places by a stone wall or parapet, amounting in the aggregate to at least one-fourth or one-third of the distance. The road has, however, along this route, the advantage of being car- ried almost on a dead level, and in other parts, where it crosses the mountains, it must be acknowledged that the ascents are better regulated than on any other road we have ever travelled. But a great defect which pre- vails throughout the whole route, and which we had not expected to meet with, is that of using stones of too large a diameter on the road. After all the improvements which have been, of late years, made in this important mt : ml y !i 'Mt\ * At the extremity of one of these bridges a monument has been erected, by a Mr. Shepherd, one of the principal contractors of this road. From an inscrij)tion on the monument, we learn that it was erected by " Moses and Lydia Shepherd, in honour of Mr. Speaker Clay, as a testimony of their gratitude to him, and of their high veneration for his public and private character." Mr. Clay is known to have advocated this undertaking, on the floor of congress, with much talent and zeal. There are, we believe, as yet, but few instances of monuments erected in our country by private individuals, to commemorate the public services of our statesmen, and we must regret that the taste which designed, and the hands which executed this monument, were not equal to the liberality which provided for it- , We have seldom seen a more clumsy attempt at allegory, or a more unfortunate introduction of emblematical figures. The inscriptions are also equally defi- cient in taste, in grammatical construction, and in orthography. In order to im- prove its ai)pearance, the stone, in itself a beautiful building material, has been covered with a wash or paint, which, having scaled off from som^ parts and remained upon others, contributes to give it a motley and uncouth appearance. SOUKCK OK sT. PETKK S UIVKH. 21 ;ss than seventeen thirtcLMi miles of I observe, that the tial, well-built, and ' A circumstance of the valley road, iiy places by a stone gregate to at least ce. The road has, itage of being car- other parts, where acknowledged that on any other road t defect which pre- ind which we had using stones of too the improvements in this important nument has been erected, s of this road. From an s erected by " Moses and , as a testimony of their )r his public and private :ed this undertaking, on Tliere are, we believe, n our country by private >f our statesmen, and we tie hands which executed lich provided for it. . We ry, or a more imfortunate ons are also equally defi- hography. In order to im- >uilding material, has been off from som^ parts and ' and uncouth appearance. branch of engineering, and after the very just celebrity which the M'Adams' roads have obtained in England, we had hoped that the suggestions of this able engineer on this subject would have been more closely adhered to. Whatever may have been the defects or the mis- takes which attended the location or execution, no doubt can exist as to the importance of the work itself, or as to the soundness of the policy which led to it. By the opening of it, the nation has gained a great deal ; it has ascertained the practicability and the expediency of entering largely Upon a system of internal improvements, the necessary consequence of which must be, to unite by closer bonds the distant parts of our vast country; and of all improve- ments, none can be more important, than such as tend to connect the waters of the Gulf of Mexico with those of the Atlantic. Immediately allied to this subject, is the possibility of making a water commiuiication be- tween the Ohio and Potomac. At a time when, by a broad and liberal policy, the executive of the United States has been authorized to apply to the consideration of this important object the united talents of the civil and military engineers of our country, and when a full and able report upon the practicability of this connexion may be expected from those most competent to decide upon it, we shall be excused from embodying here the imperfect information which a transient visit through the country has allowed us to collect. We found some interest in that part of the route which lies near Smithfield, as being the scene of some of General Washington's earliest military operations. The ruins of Fort Necessity, constructed at that distressing season when the French troops, with their savage allies, extended themselves along the banks of the Ohio, and oppressed c 3 ! I # r 1 * ; » ■' • 1 f 1 ' « •I'f i ' » ^ ■ ir 1 I' i ■! . i iiii !l if i ^! ^" '.^i it f. !|! ' - y: 22 liXPKumoN TO rut our iVonticr settlements, arc still to be seen in what are called the Big Meadows, about fifty miles west of Cum- berland. Tliis fort was erected in the year 17^4, and after having been defended with great valour, was sur- rendered in the campaign which preceded Braddock's defeat (Marshall's Life of Washington, vol. ii, p. 9), and the remains of it, still to be traced, show that the ditch was itisii/e of the embankment, which comports better with Indian M'arfare.* The fort stands about a (juarter of a mile to the south-west of the road, and it is difficult to trace its outline, but from the observations we made it would appear as if it had been triangular, and scarcely one hundred feet in length. It is said that when • We arc led to notice this fact more particularly, from the importance which Bishop Madison has attached to the circumstance of the ditch heinj,' inside of the ramparts in most, or perhaps in all the Indian remains, \vhich an; consideredas fortifications. His opinion that these works were not of a military nature, appears to us very far from being proved. He quotes Livy and Po- lybius to show us, that, in Roman works, " the parapet or breastwork was formed of the earth dug out from the fosse and thrown up on the side of ihr lamp." and he further asks, "whether the military art does not require that the ditch should he exterior," We do not consider this to be the ques- tion at issue. We have derived our notions of fortifications fi'om the Ro- mans, and we have continued to this day, probably with propriety, to place the ditch outside of the rampart ; but this is no reasqn why works con- structed by the Indians for military purposes, may not have had it otherwise. If we form our opinion of their notions of the military art from the traces still visible among the Indians, who, if they be not their lineal descendants, have at least succeeded to them in the inhabitance of that country (and it is more consistent to look to them than to the Romans in this case), we shall find that their usual practice is, when apprehensive of an attack from an ene- my, to make a small excavation, by digging up a little eartli, which they uni- formly throw out in the direction from which they apprehend an attack, and then to descend into this hollow, where they find themselves sheltered from the missile weapons of their enemies. (Vide a letter on the supposed fortifi rations of the western country, from Bishop Madison of Virginia to Dr. Bar toil, .\mer. I'hil. Tians. vol. vi. i,p. I.'i2. ) e seen in uliat arc iiiles west of Cuni- he year 1/54, and at valour, was sur- L'ceded Braddock's on, vol. ii, p. 9), ed, show that the t, which comports art stands about a the road, and it is he observations we m triangular, and t is said that when ly, from the iniportaiicc istance of tlie ditch being [lulian remahis, which an: orks were not of a military He quotes Livy and Po- rapet or breastwork was »wn up on the side of ihr ary art does not require ider tJiis to be the ques- rtifications from the llo- with propriety, to place •easqn why works con- ot have had it otherwise, tary art from the traces their lineal descendants, of that country (and it is s in this case), we shall if an attack from an ene- 3 earth, which they uni- pprehend an attack, and eniselves sheltered from • on the supposed fortifi of Virginia to Dr. Bar feOUKCB or ST. FJtTRR -S UIVhH. 23 Washington first entered it his force amounted to six hundred men, but that having advanced on his march to- wards Fort Duquesne, he was abandoned by a considera- ble proportion of his men ; and this circumstance, toge- ther with the information which he received, that the French were advancing against him with reinforcements, oblitred him to abandon for tlie time his contemplated march, and to return to Fort Necessity, which he was engaged in repairing when the enemy made his ajjpear- ance. The country in the vicinity was probably at that tiniedestituteof timber, the growth upon it not being very large. A fine brook which flows near it, has re- tained the name of the unfortunate general, who, in the ensuing campaign, paid for his rashness by the loss of his life. Indeed, it is said, that the remains of General Brad- dock were interred within two miles of this fort, near the old road called Braddock's road, and at the spot where he died, during the retreat which closed this disas- trous campaign. In this vicinity there is a blowing spring, which is si- tuated in an excavation on the .side of a hill. The stre?im of air, which issues from a crack or crevice in the rock, is very considerable, and sufficiently powerful to extin- guish a candle. By placing our ears near the crevice, we heard very distinctly the sound of water running under ground, probable upon a rocky and unequal bed ; it runs out at a short distance lower down. This stream of air is doubtless produced by the same cause, which is made to operate in the construction of the water blasts, used in metallurgy. We had no means of collecting and exa- mining the gas which escapes, but we had no reason to believe it other than atmospheric air. c4 ■ffrr l(H| (I I'V' :li II 'M :;'! -i.i !i I ;.!!; I', !.■ 24 KXPKDITION TO TIIK This section of oiir route does not offer to the zoolo- gist much suhjcct of observation. The wihl animals which formerly roved over this part of our country have been driven further west, or completely cut off by the advance of civilization, and the domestic animals .which now occupy their place have nothing to characterize them. We cannot, however, omit noticing the extraor- dinary size and strength of the Pennsylvania waggon horse, which yields in these particulars to but few breeds. There are several appellations by which the different breeds of this useful animal are distinguished in Pennsylvania, such as the Conestoga, the Chester line, &c. but these are principally of a local import* The usual height of farm and waggon horses is about six- teen hands, or five feet four inches, measured according to the usual custom. We were credibly informed that horses, seventeen, seventeen and a half, and even eigh- teen hands high, are by no means rare. A few have been known to exceed that size ; and we were told that one, the largest ever known in the country, had attained the gigantic size of nineteen hands, or six feet four inches. As a proof of the great strength which they sometimes attain, it is said that an experiment was once tried in the city of Lanca«!ter, which resulted in a single horse's dragging around the court-house, on the bare pave- ments, without the inten'ention of wheels or rollers, two tons of bar iron, which had been bundled together for this experiment. The town of Wheeling appears to be in a flourishing condition, and the increase in its population has been very great, since the completion of the national road. Business has taken a new direction ; instead of centring i I- a m Mij ^i n »•':' SOUllCK OF ST. PETKK S RlVKIl. 25 er to the xoolo- c wild animals ir country have cut off by the ; animals .which to characterize ng the extraor- ^Ivania waggon rs to but few I by which the distinguished in I, the Chester i local import* ses is about six- iured according informed that and even eigh- l few have been e told that one, ad attained the et four inches. ley sometimes nee tried in the single horse's le bare pave- or rollers, two d together for n a flourishing ition has been national road. 3ad of centring as it formerly did in Pittsburgh, it now goes principally to Wheeling, which has the advantage of a much more permanent navigation all the year round. The popula- tion amounts at present to upwards of two thousand. The situation of the town is pleasant ; the river here is about five hundred yards wide ; and there is opposite to the town a large and beautiful island, nearly three quar- ters of a mile wide. Tlie town is divided into the old and the new ; the former is built upon a narrow bank, which extends between the river and the ridge of hills on the eastern shore; the new town is built a little be- low the old, on the river, and has a wider field to expand upon, owing to the junction of the lateral valley of Wheeling creek witli that of the river. We regretted to find brick resorted to as a building material, not only in the construction of private houses, but even of churches and other public edifices, while a beautiful sandstone, admirably adapted to the purposes of architec- ture, and which might be obtained at a very low price, remains unwrought. The weather was so unfavourable during the three days that we remained here, as to preclude the possibi- lity of ascertaining by astronomical observations the la- titude and longitude of this town. In our walks along the banks of the river, which are covered with a vast deposite of alluvium, and which pre- sent, in this vicinity at least, no section of rocks, we were struck with the immense number of pebbles par- taking of the nature of primitive rocks, which are strewed along the surface of the ground. They are not, it is true, of a large size, and their smooth and rounded surfaces attest that they have travelled far from their native sites. In examining our imperfect geological Ml % 'W \l ^^^H ■ 26 JBXPEDITION TO THK il 'H maps to endeavour to assign to them an origin, we feel at a loss to decide whence they may have hcen brought. We find no primitive formations nearer than those on the north side of our great lakes, which, from the aspect of the country, may be supposed to have given rise by their destruction to these extensive alluvia of primitive dibris. Among these pebbles, chiefly of granite, gneiss, sien- ite, &c. we observed a rock formed of felspar, quartz, and handsome crystals of translucent garnets, which ap- pear to be very abundantly disseminated throughout the rock.* There is in Wheeling a glass-house, which we visited; the glass made here is very good ; the sand which they use is brought down from the banks of the Alleghany, and appears to consist of silex nearly |)ure ; the alkali added is principally unwashed ashes. We were some- what surprised at hearing, that the clay used in the ma nufacture of their crucibles was brought from Germany, indeed we consider this very improbable, as a clay very well adapted to this purpose is found in many parts of the country. The atmosphere in the glass-house was ex- tremely foul^ owing to the sulphurous vapours disengag- ed from the coal. The hills in the neighbourhood of the town are co- vered with masses of clay, sand, &c. which, as soon as they become penetrated with moisture, slide along the * On the banks of the river there were but few shells, and these were referable principally to the Unio praelongus ( Barnes), and to the Unio cras- sm, and Unio purpureus of Say. Among the land univalves, Mr. Say no- ticed the following shells, which had been previously described by him, vis. the Helix albolabris. Helix thyroidea, Helix altemata, Helix palliata, Helix profunda. Helix tridentata, Helix solitaria, Helix inomata. (Vide Nichol- son's Cyclopoedia, Amer. Ed. and Journal of the Acad. Nat. Sci. of Philadelphia, vols. i. and ii.) -i-a .iir^ 11 origin, we feel ve been brought, than those on the )in the aspect of iven rise by their primitive lUbris. ite, gneiss, sien- f felspar, quartz, rnets, which ap- throughout the ^hich we visited; sand which they f the Alleghany, )ure; the alkali We were some- used in the ma from Germany, e, as a clay very lany parts of the house was ex- pours disengag- town are co- tiich, as soon as slide along the ells, and these were and to the Unio cras- nivalves, Mr. Say no- iescribed by him, viz. Helix palliata, Helix lata. (Vide Nichol- ^cad. Nat. Sci. of ^tUUiiCU or »r. I'KTKHb HIVKH. ^/ upper surface of the rocks, even where their inclination is but small. This feature is observable only on the northern slopes, the southern are much more abrupt. We were at first induced to attribute it to the effect of the winter frosts, but Colonel M^Ree, who has examined its appearance with care, attributes it principally to tlie action of moisture. ^ *!!► I I*' I' J, •■ M* ■J I J 1. ; Ij W < ' 9 i 'r 11 ■•; I i * SOIMICE OK ST. i>KTKH S HIVKU. 29 inbus. Piqua. ' Waj/ne. uiul changed niinodatc our- mo^ t iinpassu- of rum which hio in a tiain- is here divided island, which over the first antly, and cor- other branch. ^ of a rivulet jxtremely un- ssings of that iieasoii of the le bed of the bservcd by all , the average e and a half, ich are gene- iry considera- hree hundred ascended, the small. These to the nature roughout the ft lis, 1 country ; for it is a fact, which gcncrad observation con- firms, that tiiose liills which are comjioscd of rocks hori- zontally stratified, are generally steepest in their ascents, and present a tabular form at their summit. The coal formation of Wheeling is very extensive; the exact limits of this coal basin have not yet been traced with accuracy, but, as far as we are able to judge from the in- formation obtained upon a country as yet btit thinly fet- tled, and in which the natural sciences have been little attended to, it woidd appear that it probably reaches as far to the north-east as Lawrenccville, in Tioga County, Pennsylvania, and perhaps may be considered as connected with that lately discovered in Tioga County (New York), near the head of Seneca Lake. The coal found in that place is, as we were informed, abiuidant, of an excellent quality, and well characterized as bituminous. The eastern limit may be taken to be formed by the main ridge of the Alleghany Mountains. Its western and southern limits we are not prepared to decide upon, but it is probabl*; that its breadth bears but a small proportion to its length. At Zancsville we had an oj)portunity to observe the geological features of the country to advantage. The bed of the Muskingum is deeply incased, and the strati- fication is laid bare for a considerable distance. . It there presents the same features as in the vicinity of Wheeling, but the order of stratification and the character of the rocks are somewhat difterent. A very fine break presents the following section : commencing at the lowest rocks, there is a sandstone of a tolerably coarse grain, filled with remains of vegeta- ble substances converted into charcoal, in some cases partakingof a bituminous character, so that a gradual =1 m 'm 'fti ■'■ - i ; • I. 1^ m 1 i -t'i' :H 30 KXPKOITION TO THK and invisible, but certain transition from the charcojil to coal manifestly takes place. These remains are, however, as far as we saw them, so much impaired, as to make it impossible to assign to them any particular place in fossil botany, though of their vegetable origin no doubt can exist. In remarking upon their position, we ascertained, that they generally lay in the direction of the stratification, very seldom intersecting it. Besides fragments of charcoal and coal, we found impressions of plants, some of which were tolerably well characte- rized. In one instance a y?/tyZ/fo/irke(l. The dif- II and pigs is so e wliolc of their idily disposed of iiaud only thirty the hcst quality, ,'e dollars. The nerally of an in- f nianufacturintf s' establishment, iccess to lead to a IS. We conversed on the subject, nation on the ad- mering, the result from rollers was by hammeiinc^, was owinq^ rather le process. The well understood ) record this iii- hat every thinu: ufacture of iron tion of the ])ro- )ortant one, and strong prejudice; 1 iron, and that 'ennsylvania are know, that the Du in England, SOURCE OK ST. PKTKR S lUVKH. 35 where it has met with a decided preference in many instances ; and the economy which attends it, must make it very desirable that it should prove successful. Experience shows that all innovations in the arts meet with oV>jections ; and the failure of those who attempt to re])eat them without proper care or knowledge, is not UM frequently attributed to the imperfections of the process, instead of being charged to the inexperience of the operators. It is a remarkable fact, that, with the admitted supe- riority of the British over American cu'^tings, no attempts have been made to work the same ore. and by means ot the same fuel, which have proved so successful when used abroad. It is a trutlj, with which every person wlio feels an interest on this subject is conversant, that the clay ironstone is the principal ore used in England ; that it is smelted by means of coke ; that the products are extremely advantageous ; that results equally favourable, if not more so, have been obtained in Silesia from the same ores; and that experiments which have been made on the same subject in France, have becMi attended with the happiest results. We may therefore wonder, that so much of this valuable ore is allowed to remain unwrought, in the midst of the very fuel Mhich ought to be used to smelt it ; and that a preference should be given to the hydrates and oxides of iron, worked with charcoal, very frequently to great dis- advantage. The furnace which we visited near Zanesville was built in 1809, and was, as we were told, the first erected in the state of Ohio ; its inside is lined with fire-bricks, made of the clay which is used forcrucibles in the giass- h<)U>e ; and the proprietors informed us that it was their i» 2 ic-lil "*V :3() FCXPKnmoN TO TIIK ' f if f^l-^ i :, ! i: ■1 'i. ■> '5 intention to make large bricks of the same materials for their hearth?, as all the stones they had heretofore used had proved m their original > striata are also 3r a considerable lex), which cou- .iiex, appurtntly a rock, in the ies in the chalk [;olour is black. these blocks are found loose and the appearance glass-houses in traveller, as he uni, none co".- riginality to the cross the river, 9 connect three the cape formed Licking creek, on between the SOUKCK OP !«T. I'KTKK S RIVKH. 39 opposite banks of the Muskingum, below the junction of the two streams. This presents an uncouth mass, contra'^ting well with the magnificence of the scenery. The bridge appears destitute of solidity, and will pro- bably be soon replaced by a more elegant and per- manent one. It is thus that the rude works of the first settlers in the west are disappearing gradually, and making way for the more improved structures of civi- lized life. Having remained half a day in Zanesvillc, we con- tinned our journey towards CoIumbu«5, which we reached on the 19th. The route between these two places offered us but little interest ; to the mineralogist it presents none at all, being level, flat, and covered with an alluvium. We were informed that coal had been observed in many places, but in no instance of a quality to warrant its extraction ; and that no where had it been worked beyond five miles west of the Muskingum. (Jul* road, which led us through the valley of Licking creek, was very even. The rocks were always concealed from view, except in one or two places, where abrupt cliffs rose at too great a distance from the road to permit us to decide upon their nature; but their general aspect appeared to connect them with those observed in the vicinity of Zanesville. Our attention was, however, soon directed in another channel. The country about the Muskingum appears to have been at a former period the seat of a very exten- sive aboriginal population. Every where do we observe, in this valley, remains of works which attest, at the same time, the number, the genius, and the persever- ance of those departed nations. Their works have sur- vived the lapse of ages ; but the spirit which prompted n 4 vi iM T r 40 ExpRDrrioN TO niK in: li 1 1 ■'' I i\ L them has disappeared. We wander over tlie face of the country ; wherever we go, we mark the monuments which they have erected ; we would interrogate them as to the authors of these mighty works, but no voice re- plies to ours, save that of the echo. The mind seeks in vain for some clew to assist it in unravelling the mystery. Was their industry stimulated by ihc desire of protect- ing themselves against the inroads of invaders, or were they themselves the trespassers ? Did they migrate to this spot, and if so, whence came they ? who were they ? whither went they ? and wherefore came they here ? Their works have been torn open ; they have been searched into, but all in vain. The mound is now le- velled with the sod of the valley j the accumulated earth, which was perhaps collected from a distance into one im- mense mass to erect a monument deemed indestructible, over the remains of some western Pharaoh, is now scat- tered over the ground, that its concealed treasure may be brought to light. Every bone is accurately examined, every piece of metal or fragment of broken pottery is cu- riously studied, still no light has as yet been thrown upon the name and date of the once populous nation which formerly flourished on the banks of the numerous tri- butary streams of the Ohio. Such were the reflexions suggested to us by our visit to the numerous mounds and Indian works which abound in this part of the country, the first of which we observ- ed in the small village of Irville, situated eleven miles west of Zanesville. This mound was about fifteen feet in diameter, and four and a half in height ; it appears to have had an elliptic basis. Our guide told us, that he was present when it was opened, and that there were a mjmber of human bones, and among others a tolerably '■a ii' 't.:*.: SOUHCE Ok' >T. I'ETKU S UlVKIl. 41 ' the face of the ;he inonuinent» rrogatc them as lit no voice re- mind seeks in ing the mystery, sire of protect- vaders, or were hey migrate to kvho were they ? ne they here ? Itey have been ind is now le- iimulated earth, ice into one im- I indestructible, oih, is now scat- treasure may ately examined, n pottery is cu- rt thrown upon nation which numerous tri- us by our visit 5 which abound ich we observ- d eleven miles )ut fifteen feet ; it appears to old us, that he t there were a ers a tolerably entire skcleton/which lay with its head to the north-west; the arms were thrown back over the head. Besides the bones, there were numerous spear and arrow points, and of the latter we picked up one on the spot. There was also a plate of copper of the length of the hand, and from five to six inches in width ; it was rolled up at the sides, and had two holes near the centre ; its weight, we were told, might have been about a quarter of a pound, but it was probably greater : for it must have been very thin, if, with these dimensions, it weighed so little. What could have been the use of it, except as an orna- ment, was not determined ; indeed, the inhabitants of that part of the country are so much accustomed to dig up bones, and remains of the Aborigines, that they are very careless about observing or recording the objects - found, and the circumsta:^ces under which they were discovered. We were told that pieces of copper, and even o{ brass, had been frequently collected. The copper may easily be accounted for, without a reference to a higher degree of civilization, or to an intercourse with nations more advanced in the arts. The existence of native copper, strewed upon the surface of the ground in many places, will easily account for the circumstance of its being used by the natives as an ornament, in the same manner as the Copper Indians of the north have been known, from the earliest days of their discovery by white men, to adorn their persons with it : but we cannot ac- count for the discovery of ornaments of brass, unless we admit an intercourse with nations that had advanced in civilization. The existence, therefore, of fragments of this alloy in mounds, appears to us doubtful j for, if true, the Indians who constructed them must have been much more refined than we can suppose they were ; or they ^Ji IP 48 KXPKDITION TO THK must huvc had intercourse with civilized nations. The erection of these mounds, which a|)|)ear to he in u great measure contemporary, was certainly much anterior to • the discovery of this continent in the fifteenth century; and, therefore, it is not from ii^uropeans tiiat these pieces of brass were obtained, if, again wc repeat it^ they have been found in tliesc works. Besides this motuid, there are many others in the im- mediate vicinity of Irville, some of which are of very great dimensions. We observed one, near the road, which had been but recently excavated at its summit ; it was perhaps thirty-five or forty feet higli. These mounds were for the most part overgrown witli bushes ; and from the scattered and irregular manner in which they lie, we could discover no order or plan in their rela- tive positions ; it does not appear that they were in- tended to be connected with any work of defence, but it is more probable that they were erected as mausoleums, and that the difTerence in their size was intended to con- vey an idea of difference in the relative importance of those whose bones they covered. We were informed that this valley and the neighbouring hills abound in ex- cavations resembling wells ; we met with none of these ; they are said to be very numerous, and are i-fcnerally at- tributed to the first French adventurers, who, being con- stantly intent upon the search after the precious metals, commenced digging wherever they observed a favourable indication. Not having seen any of these, we could not pretend to express an opinion upon their origin ; but, from the number in which tliey are re|)resented to be, as well as from their dimensions, they appear to us far exceeding the abilities of those to whom they are attri- buted, and to have rerpiired a much more numerous ,i# ROUKCK OV !ST. PKTER S HlVKil. 4a ed iiaiiuiis. The II' to be ill u great iHich aiiterioi' to riftc(Mitli century; tliut these pieces |)ent it, they have others ill the im- lich are of very , near the road, at its summit ; et high. These wii witli bushes ; luinuer in wliich Ian in their rela- t they were in- »r defence, but it as mausoleums, intended to con- ! importance of were informed Is abound in ex- 1 none of these; ire jjfcnerally at- vho, being con- )rccious metals, ed a favourable , we could not ir origin ; but, resented to be, )pear to ns far they arc attri- lore numerous an.sip])i, it is impossible to assign any probable limits to this vast internal ocean ; we know too little of the true direction of the dillereiit 4 48 KXFKUITION TO TUB chuins of nunintnins, which extend throughout this sec- tion of our country, orof their respective heights, to allow us to trace the limits of that powerful dam which formerly kept the whole of our western country under water ; nor can wc attempt to show in what places and from what causes the dam was forced : but the mere inspection of the high plains, which form the centre of the state uf Ohio, must satisfy us, that they doubtless owe the cha racters which they now ])resent to the recent so- journ of water. The country is covere IIIVKH. 40 iroughout this soc- ve heights, to allow lamwhich foriiierlv under water ; nor •cs and from what nere in«ipection of re of the state of )tless owe the cha L> the recent so- bered with a very trees are upwards s consist chiefly of de, hUick-walnut, cotton- wood tree were first oh- ulip, or Lirioiku- est size. The soil, ', and it is gene- dl, which preniised to be ; tlie f all tlie marshy migration further ettlenicnts being re informed ,thnt a very t is well known to tlie kncss, and is supposed nwholeson(i€ from some made, remote from the Streams. VVihl and unimproved land may be had, in n»ost places, at two dollars per acre, and there is still some public land, belonging to the United States, which may be purchased at one dollar and a (juartcr per acre. The surface of the country presents some slight undulations. The only stream of any conse- quence which we met between the Scioto and the Mia- mi, was Mad River, a tributary of the latter. The name which itl^ears was given to it on account of the wildness ot its scenery, and of the agitation of its waters, resuit- hig from the roughness of its bed. This is one of the moit romantic streams which the western country presents. Instead of the wide, and frequently dry bed, in v. 'licli the other streams run with a slow and lazy pace, Mad River descends in many parts of its course through a narrow and contracted channel, with therapidity ofator. rent. Notwithstanding the uncultivated and uninhabited state of the country, we saw but little game ; this con- sisted of a few deer and wild turkeys, which, however, kept so far from our course as to prevent our firing at any. The town of Urbainia is small, but neatly laid out. We met here with a family of emigrants lately removed from New Jersey, fu:* the purpose of raising the Palma Christi, and manufacturing from it castoroil, which they propose sending to the eastern cities, by the way of New Orleans; they have already planted twelve acres of it, and, from the experiments which liavc been made, an- ticipate much success in this culture. We stopped for a day at Piqua, a small town situated on the west bank of the Miami river, and on a spot which aj)p('ars to have been the seat of a numerous Indian po- pulation. The river is navigable for keel boats, a few miles above the town, during half the year. The town VOL. r. K • m if^il 50 KXPKDITION TO TtlK 1^(1 b 'I,; ■ A iii-if iiii i fill is built in a semicircular beiul of the river, so that it»; streets, wliich arc rectilinean, aud parallel to the chord of the arc, are terminated at both ends by the water. The spot is one of the most a(kantageous it) the country for a lart^e popuhition ; the situation is very fine for defence ae^ainst at^t^ressors ; and we find that, with their accustomed discrimination, the Indianshad made thisone of their principal seats. The remains of tlieir works arc very interesting?, and being, we believe, as yet undc- scribed, we surveyed them with such means as were at our flisposal. They consist for the most part of circular parapets, t!ie elevation of which varies at present from three to five or six feet, but which bear evident marks of having been at one time much higher ; many of them are found in the neighbourhood of the town, and several of them in the town itself. The plough passes every year over some parts of these works, and will probably continue to unite its levelling influence, with that of time, to obli- terate the last remains of a people, who, judging froui the monuments which it has left behiml, must have been far more advanced in civilization than the Indians who were found there a century or two ago ; and of whom a few may still be seen occasionally roving about the spot, where their fathers met in council. We observed one elliptic and five circular works, two of which are on the east bank of the river, the others are on the west The ground appears, in all cases, to have been taken from the inside, which forms a ditch in the interior; its depth cannot of course be ascertained at present, as it is in great measure filled up, but it must have been considerable. The area, within the ditch, probably retained the level of the surrounding country. The parapet may have been from three to SOI l<( K OV M. I'KTKK !» HIVIR. 51 river, so that its ilel to the elionl Is by the water, us in the country is very fine for (1 that, with their uui nuide this one )f their works arc ^e, as yet undc- means as were at st part of circuhu* s at present from ir evident marks ?r ; many of them town, and several passes every year probably continue it of time, to obli- i'ho,judgint?from I, must have been tlie Indians who ; and of whom ovintj about the [) uiar works, two er, the others are all cases, to have ms a ditch in the )e ascertained at illed up, but it u'ea, within the the surroundini,' I from three to four feet with-, but from slow decay it appears much wider. The first which we visited (A.)* is situated at about a quart(;r of a mile to the south-west of the town, and half a mile westward of the river; it appears to have been the most important of all, and forms, as it were, the centre rouml which the others were disposed. Its form is circular ; its diameter is about one hundred and fifty feet: it has a gateway from eight to ten feet wide, which faces the river. Immediately connected, and in close contact with it, to the south-south-east, there is a small circular work («), the parapet of which is considerably higher ; its diameter is about forty-three feet ; it has no gatewsiy or opening whatsoever. It has generally been considered as intended for a look-out post ; but this opinion appears incorrect, from the cir- cumstance that it is not raised high enough for this purpose ; that its size is much greater than what would be required for a mere post of observation ; and finally, that its construction essentially differs from that which is recorded by Mr. Atwater and other observers, as be- longing to such posts of observation. There is nothing to support this opinion but its situation, which is in the most elevated part of the plain. We, however, think it more probable that it was considered as a strong hold, which should be resorted to in the last extremity. This opinion accounts for all the characters which we observe about it. Its situation, near the main fort at the centre of the works ; its smaller dimensions, which, while they would admit a consideruble force, would permit it to be «lefended more easily than the extensive works with which it is connected: the height and thickness of its para|»et confirm this belief. The circumstance of there * Sie the annexed i»liin. i; 2 »'U If ik if 3 ii; r>2 KXI'KDITION TO THE ' Vf I l\. ■ IP being no gateway is an additional proof for us, that it was intended to be used like the citadel of a modern fortress, as the last sj)ot in which the remnants of a defeated army might be concentrated in order to njake a decisive stand against their aggressors. Proceeding in a direction south sixty- five degrees cast from tlie first work, at a distance of abont seven hun- dred anout five hundred rom the second ; the other two ; d fifty feet ; it is of tlie first fort. and C.)} Hiid near lains of a water- uppose, with the tch dug down to the same having ith side, or that which fronts down the river ; the breadth between the two parapets is much wider near the water than at a 4 KXPKDITION TO THK !! If }■ feet ill (iiainetcr; it is pluctMi in a very conimaiuliiii,' position, on the brow of tlio lull which lias untortu- nately been partially wdshetl away, an«l has caiTicd down with it about one-third part of the works. There is at present but one jjateway visible, which is on the east side, and is about six or eight feet wide. This part of the works is one of the most interesting, it hav- ing as yet received no injury from the hands of man. It is covered with trees of a very large size. Upon the top of the parapet we found the trunk of a tree, which had evidently grown long after the rampart had been constructed, and probably long after it had ceased to be the theatre of bloodshed and of assault. The interior part of the trunk was very much decayed ; hut we counted two hundred and fifty concentric layers in what appeared to be less than the outer half: whence we con- cluded that this tree was certainly upwards of five hun- dred years old at the time it was cut down. These works all bear the impress of a very remote antiquity ; in some cases, trees of a very large size are seen grow- ing upon the trunks of still larger trees. We have, as we conceive, no data to enable us to refer them to any definite date ; but we are well warranted, from all their characters, in assigning to them an antiquity of upwards of one thousand years. At about fifty rods to the north-north-west of the last-mentioned work there is another, which is circular, and of a much larger size. It has two gateways, one fronting east, and the other west. We did not see this last, but we are indebted to some of the inhabitants of Piqua for a description of it. About these forts there are, as might be expected, many Indian arrow-heads, and other remains to be found ; il oj til tl l»l i i S017HC R OK vr. PKTKH H IIIVI-R. 5A >i'y cumiuandint,' cli iias uiifortii- iiui has carried i works. Tliero vliicli is on the eet wide. This LM'esting", it hav- haiul!4 of man. size. Upon the of a tree, which npart had been ; had ceased to t. The interior (cayed ; but we c hiyers in w!iat .vlience we con- rds of five hun- tlown. These note antiquity; are seen grow- . We have, as "er them to any from all their Liity of upwards th-west of the ich is circular, gateways, one id not see this inhabitants of be expected, nsto be found; those which we saw present liowever nolhing peculiar. We observer' both the war and the peace arrow-heajl, or that whiJi is used in hunting, and which is dis- tinguished from the war arrow-head by the absence of the acute >houlder, with which the war-arrow is always pnivided, in order to cause it to remain in the wound, from which it cannot be extricated without much danger and pain to the patient: whereas that use> ', stood near tlio isr. It Ims been lits may be very ie on the groiiiid, spcctively fifteen s work is stated, ) enclose an area is extends in an nearest point of o be about seven part, it is sup- lar to those pre- ; thirty-six yards e wall was built f them arc cal- lilar to those we specially on the m a loose pave- e ellipsis. The ses from a strict If to the surface ndry parts, and are many gate- h are generally Bse, and within ruber of stones, li are supposed !ding works, must be t was determined by fround ; the measure It. The courses or IS. SOITRCK OV >T. PBTKK'8 HIVBR. 57 to be the renuiiiH of small works, thrown up for the deCenco of the gateway, and so situated that one munnd will protect two gateways. Although the general opinion seems to he favourable to the idea, that this stone wall was erected as a fortification, we by no means consider this as |)roved. All the stones which are found there, if arranged so as to form the highest possible wall, would probably not ri^c above from four and a half to five feet ; but, in onler to a(foruur which it re(piired in order to accomplish it, its form and situation, in fine, all its characters would then con- cur in leading to the belief that it must have been a re- ligious monument ; probably forming an arena where their sacred festivals, their games, their ceremonies could be conveniently carried on. The number of the gates, the heaps of stones which lie near them, all tend to |)rove that no other origin can be safely ascribed to it. It was suggested that this may perhaps be the remains of a pound, similar to those made by the Indians to this vould have jiresented to the powerful efforts of the wihl animals which it would luivc been intended to enclose, its situation, on an uneven ground, likewise exchnles this hypothesis from any claim to |)lausibility. The stones used vary much in si/e, from that of a SOUIU K OV S'l rKTBIl S III VEIL 59 LMi al niiy time large a loree as c'c of so CMteiisive nay be said, like- [ig iiiteiuled as a / numerous, and ?acli other. Tlie wall being along tan the rest, may to its being con- Id not have been It was the intcn- tent, the labour >lish it, its form would then con- L have been a rc- an arena where heir ceremonies e number of the iv them, all tend ly ascribed to it. be the remains e linlians to this iffalos and other vise exc hided by h small dimen- nted stones but resented to the h it would have , on an uneven icsis from any from that of a waliuit to the largest which a man may cari7. Doubts may exist whether this wall was raised upon an earthen parapet ; if there was one of this kind, it has certainly disap|)eared almost entirely, yet in a few places the elevation formed by the stones appeared greater titan might have been expected from the quantity of mate- rials which were observed. It is, therefore, not impossi- ble that, in some places at least, the wall may have been supported by an earthen parapet. The motive for which these stones were collected will probably ever remain a secret ; and we must be contented with sur- mises, all of which are unsatisfactory, because all are founded upon hypothetical manners, which we ascribe to the authors of these works. When we observe a cir- c!dar rampart with a fosse, a gateway, and a traverse inside of the gateway, we discover a similarity to our uiodern fortifications, and we immediately consider that this may have been erected for the same purpose ; without inipiiring into the foundation which we have for assigning to them the same system of fortification which we have adopted. In examining into the cha- racter of man, whether civilized or savage, we are, it is true, struck with the powerful influence which two of the most opposite passions, a warlike and religious spirit, will exercise over him ; and to one or both of these we may attribute his most astonishing actions, whether good or bad. Tlie experience of every nation proves, that almost all religious faiths have led to the undertaking of vast works. VVkhout recurring to the • Egyptian and Indian antiquities, we find in the splendid remains of Greece and Rome, in the colossal and magnificent Gothic cathedrals of the middle ages, and even in the more recent edifices of modern times, iS^ 60 KXPKDITION TO THK that religion lias at all periods been the principal mo- tive which induced nien to exert their genius, and ex- pcnd their labour in construction. Judging, by tlu- same test, of the nations long since extinct, which at one time covered the banks of our western streams, %ve should not be surprised if the remains of their linest works bear the character of having been undertaken, |)art!y at least, with religious viewis. On the road from Pitpia to this stone wall we pas- sed a very large mound, which had been partially ctit e rucks it ap- tbat they were lich \\ere tole- een formed, in canty herbage. Upon rcachini^ tlie spot, we found that most of tlicsc monnds had been broken open, for the piu'pose of burn- inir inio lime the fra^'ments of stone which composed them, and of avuidinir thereby the trouble of workintf hito the solid rock. We opened several, but in all cases we found the bones very mncli injured; indeed, all of them were more or less broken except one, which was cvidenily a toe Ix.ne. They had become very nuicli altered, and were yellow and cellular. We took spe- cimens with us to examine them chemically, with a view to ascertain what eliaiiges they had utulergojje ; but they were lost with part of our collections. The ob- jects which seenu'd to resist decomposition most elfec- tually, were teeth. Of these we found, however, but few, not mure than half a dozen; two of them were milk teeth, the rest had belonged to adults; they were rather of a snuill size, and worn out almost to the root. The bones all lay scattered and without order; they were fragnu'nts of the craninm, the arms, shotd- ders, ^c, which almost crun.bled under the pressure of the fuigers. The only objects that we noticed with tliem, were the two incisor teeth of a ground scpurrei, which Wire probably of fortuitous deposition. The rocks in the neighbourhood of lM(pia arc uni- forndy composed of u >\ bite limestone, of a compact textnte, but containing many cavities filled by crystal- lized carbonate of lime. It is fdled with organic ini* pres>ions, among which Mr. Say 2 KXPKOITION TO TIIK ,, .1 VVf al^o found liciv a sjU'ciincu ol" piimilivc liiiio- stone with mica ; but it wu> cvidiMitly lolU'd, and bore no reseiid)!;uit*e to tl ic rocks w liici I occur m v iluc in this vicinity. At I'iqna the rocks are all very well (Stratified, the strata heinuf nearly horl/ontal. This lime- stone is fouml to yield, hv hurnint', a lime of a tolera- biy good (|nality It is stated that salt springs have been discovered in various places near Pi(pia, but wo met with none. There is a very considerable rapid in the Miami at this place, which has in lUVKU. «:> lUiulo on the 2Ist Junuary, 1824, by the catial coni- inis*ioners to the general assembly of Ohio, fur eopies of which we are indebted to Mr. VVilliains. From this i'eport it appears that the routes proposed may be rechieed to four, viz; — The first route would be to connect the waters of the Grand river of Lake Erie with the Ohio, at the mouth of the Big Beaver creek. This route, being very close to the Pennsylvania line, and in some parts east of it cannot be eligible by the state of Ohio, if any other practicable route can be found, l-'roni the surveys jnadc by Judge (ieddes, or under his direction, it would appear that this summit, which is known by the name of the Mahoning summit level, is elevated three hiui- dred and fortv-two feet above Lake l^ie^ and two bun- drod and fourteen feet above the Ohio at the mouth of Big Beaver creek.* This canal would therefore recpiin? u|)wards of five hundred and fifty feet of lockage. The rpiestion whether or not a sufficiency of water can be obtained on this ri)Ute is still undecided. The second route contemplates connectint^ the Mus- kingum with the lake, which may be done either by the Tuscarawas and the Cnliay«)ga creeks, or Dy the Kill- buck and Black river-;; a third divi'lon of thU route * Wo have liore adopted the incafsnri'nn'tits piven Iiy the rannl com- misMionorti in tlicir rf|>ort, tli(iiii,'li we iii'i! ulVaid tliaf a mistake itiay have cscn])ed tliiir imtiif; tin lu-i^'ht mI this biiniiiiit ic\<'l was stated liy a goiitlcmaii whom we met at t'ohimhns to \u- three hiindivd and twenty-four feet, whieh appears more correct, for liy a compari-oii ot ttie ditfereiieo of U-vel lietwcen Lake Erie and the month of the Afus- kiiiKum, tlio fall of the Ohio from the town of Heaver in Pennsylvimia to Marietta, wonid tx- one hundred and tifty-two feet, if we ado|)t the calculations <>( the conni)i'«sioners ; whereas, u))on the othei' data ii would be i>ut thirty-six feet, vsliich is inticli mure prol>alil''. ■if (16 Kxl'KDmoN Hi niK purpc^es asrciHlini:^ the Killljiick, continiiitig aKmi; the summit level in an easterly ilirection to the C.'uyaliot^a amhlescendiiJij that stream to the hike. 'J'hese tliree phiMs may he considered as parts of one t,^eneral route the preference of any one heinif Ufpiestion, which il will only he im[i(>rtant to (leciur feet Jihove 1/uke Erie and four hundred and twenty-eight ahove Marietta. The locks wotdd therefore exceed eight hundred and thirty feet; this section of the Muskingum route, though longer, and crossing a higher summit than that up the Killhuck, would probably be preferred, as being more easily sup[)lied with water. The third route for the canal is that which would con ncct the Scioto and Sandusky rivers. These stream?, pas?';ic; nearly in a north and south line through the centre of the state, seem at first sight to be the most eli- gible for the canal if it be practicable to execute it in this direction. Doubts had been entertained concerning the quantity of water which might be obtained on this sum- mit, but as Judge Geddes and Mr. Forrer had ascertain- ed that most of the head waters \)( the Great Miami river might be brought upon the suumiit level of this route, generally designated in Ohio as the Tyamochte level, hopes were entertained that it wotdd prove prac- ticable. This level is elevated about three huiulred and ^Ol•|U,k OK St. I'KTIll > lUVUll. (5r fiftv-four IVct above the lake, and four liuiidrcd and fit'tv- five abovf till' nioutli of the Scltito, uluMicf it will re(iuiro about ciijlit buudrcd and ton foit of locUaj,'c. Upon ti furtlit r survey of tlie country, and i,'naijin!,'' the streams, the coininixsionersliavc however eonie to the final con- clusion, tluit the supply of water on this route would probably be iusutficient to overcome the losses by leak- aije, evaporation, &c. ; and that it wou'd leave no sup- ply of water for the expenditure in the passage of boats throuijh the locks. In their calculations they have as- sumed as a basis the loss of water by leakai^e, evapora- tion, &c. on the New-Vork canals, v.hich has there proved nuich greater than had been anticipated, as it amounts to an average of one hu!i(hed cubic feet per mituite, for c^very mile of canal route. This aniount was reduced by proper jillowances for the diU'erence in the nature of the country through which it was contem- plated that the canal woidd pas> ; but, even with these allowances, they have been led to believe, that *' the upper levels on the Sandusky and Scioto route, could not be supplied with the necessary (juantity of water in dry seasons, by either of the methods proposed and consi- dered ; and the board after deliberating on the subject, fvoiu the facts an(ioii, \te iiii lit'i'lakcii l)y l!>t' state of Ohio, is one tliat woul«l prove as beneticial to that state as it would be honourable to it. This plan would be to make a eanal which would unite with the lake as near the north-cai^t angle us nature will permit, and passing through tlie great vallies of the Muskingum, the Scioto and the Miami, in a south-westwardly direction enter the river Ohio near the south-west corner of the state. The commissioners ap- pear to be aware of the difliculties they will have to en- counter ; but the data they have already collected on this subject, are favourable to the execution of the scheme, and if, they should be equally successful during the sunmier of 1H24, in establishing the complete connexion, they will have the honour of having suggested a course, which, if it be not adopted at present, will be so at a future time; tor, after the undisputed benefits which canals have utfordcd wherever they have been nuide, it is impossible to doubt that, with the great natural ad- vantages, which she [lossesses, Ohio will be among the first to enrol herself among the patrons of an extensive system of internal improvement. After crossing Loramie creek two or three times, we reached St. Mary*s river, which unites at Fort Wayne with the St. Joseph to form the Mauniee. The histori- cal recollections which connect themselves with the section of country through which we travelled, compen- sate the little interest which it offers to the naturalist. To liim nothing can be more annoying than to pass over a marshy, swampy country, where no rocks appear »'// sifHy and where but few boulders arc met with ; where the iiuiui.ils are few in niiniher, and apparently atVaid to risk themselves in spots in which ihcir >peed would .) 1^ A !"■ 1 .' 1 1 i" if i !| n IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) V f 1.0 I.I 11.25 ^ lAa |2.o 1.4 11.6 u Sh w^ /: ^J^ /A ^:^ y ''^ o 7 Photographic Sdraices Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MSSO (716) 872-4503 ) o fi^jse ** :^ A z I •■'. I: i 70 liXPEDlTION TO THE avail them but little. It is tfuc, that the pursuits of the botanist might have been carried on successfully, in a situation where an abundant growth of plants would pro- bably have offered liim objects worthy of his notice j and this would have compensated the rest of the party for the apparently uninteresting character of the country j for, in an expedition of the nature of ours, the success of each individual in his peculiar pursuit becomes a source of gratification to all. Being, liowever, unaccompanied by a botanist, we found in this part of Ohio nothing to interest us but the resoUection of the busy scenes of war which had, at a former time, been enacted in this district. As the principal field upon which all the military opera- tions of Generals St. Clair, Wayne, and Harrison, were conducted, there is much cause to dwell with pleasure upon the spot. A vast difference exists, however, be- tween the theatre of Indian warfare and that of the military undertakings of civilized nations. The descrip- tions of the spots, upon which the latter occur, are so much more accurate that they never can be mistaken; while of the former we seldom know the exact seat. Even the history of the defensive works which were erected, soon loses part of its interest by the destruction of the works themselves. We read of the deeds done in the neighbourhood of Fort Loramie by the French, or of the Miami villages by St. Clair, but, if we travel over the ground, we find but few traces of these deeds. At Fort St. Mary, which was one of General Harrison's principal d^p6ts ip 1813 and 1814, we see but the re- mains of a half-ruined blockhouse, and of a very misera- ble hut surrounded by pickets, which are fast falling -to decay. A few years more and the remains of these works will be sought for by the traveller as tmsuccess- :hi SOURCE OF ST. PKTKR S RIVER. 1 fully as \vc now search for the spots upon which St. Clair fought and Wayne conquered. A young growth of trees is rising, which, if not levelled by the axe of the forester^ will soon conceal the last tratJes of the clearing made by Wayne for the advance of his army, whicli was pointed out to us as Wayne's road. The party arrived in the afternoon of the 24th of May at Fort St. Mary, just in time to avoid a heavy rain. A solitary log-house marks the spot where a little village formerly throve, under the protection of the French fort, erected at this place. It stands on St. Mary's river, at a diistance of fifty-eight miles by land from Fort Wayne; the distance by water is probably about one hundred and thirty-eight miles. The river is navigable, during half the year, for large boats, carrying from one to two hundred barrels j during the rest of the year, in dry seasons, there is scarcely \yater enough in it to float a canoe, and its course is very much impeded by drift wood. A little limestone of a very inferior quality has been found on the river bank, below the fort. From Piqua to St. Mary the soil is only of second quality, being in many places too wet and swampy for grain. The weather had becojne very hot; at noon, Fahrenheit's thermome- ter stood in the shade at eighty-eight degrees. Our party began to suffer much from the inconvenience of mosqui- toes and other insects. The entertainment which we received along the road was observed to become more and more rough, and to denote our speedy approach to the last limits of civilization. The cotton-wood tree became much larger as we advanced, Mr. Say noticed the Papilla thoas and ajax in great number. On leaving, on the 25th May, the miserable hut which had afforded us a shelter during the storm, our route F 4 !■) ■i^ i- f n KXFEDITION lO THK led US along the banks of the St. Mary, which v;e followed down to its confluence with the St. Joseph, occasionally coming in sight of the i'iver and keeping off from it, at times, according as its course was a straight or devious one: we travelled for twelve miles over the swampy country through which this river flows, after which we came on a beautiful dry prairie, known by the name of Shane's prairie, and at eighteen miles from Fort St. Mary we crossed the river at a settlement called Shanesville ; both the prairie and settlement (which consists of but one family), owe their appellation to an interpreter, who is a half-breed Indian, his father was a Canadian, his mother an Ottawa.* He was employed as an interpreter and spy by General Harrison, during his western campaigns, and is consi- dered as having acquitted himself of his duties faith- fully ; on the conclusion of the war he was rewarded by the grant of half a section (three hundred and twenty acres) of land, which he has divided into town lots ; he resides within a short 'listance of Shanesville on part of his grant. The soil being considered of the best quality, and the situation on the river an advantageous one, he has already sold some parts of it. No man is better known in this part of the country than Shane ; his in- fluence among the Indians is great, and he enjoys a high degree of popularity with the white settlers, founded upon the uniformly good character which he main- tained during the war, and upon the unbounded con- fldence reposed in him by General Harrison. He was * 6't-t*i-wk', Whenever an Indian word occurs for the first time, its or- thography and pronunciation will be indicated by using Walker's key. The sign (') prefixed t<: a vowel indicates that it is short, while the sign (') shows it to Ik! long, the unaccented vowels have the usual quantity. ■ t "ill Turlr Wff "■^|"--_ Fl SOUUCK OK ST. rKTEK b lllVKK. /3 absent from home iit tlie time we passetl there, but we aftcrwurds met with him at Fort Wayne. The late heavy rains had so much swollen the St. Mary that it was impossible to ford it. We passed it in a canoe — our horses swam across. Fourteen miles of bad roads, leading however through a country remark- able for the excellence of its soil, and for its line luxu- riant growth of white and black oak, beech, hickory, shellbark, &c. brought us to a new settlement, where, notwithstanding the badness of the accommodations, we were happy to find a hospitable reception. Near to this house we passed the state line, which divides Ohio from Indiana. In the state of Ohio we met with no Indians. Their numbers appear to be diminishing very rapidly. We were informed that they do not exceed two thousand, consisting principally of Ottawa?, Miamis, Senecas, Wyandots, &c. This neighbourhood abounds, as we were informed, in wolves, deer, and raccoons ; bears are few, and the panther is seldom seen j we met with no wild animal whatever, on this part of our route. The tlistance from this to Fort Wayne is twenty-four miles, without a settlement j the country is so wet that we scarcely saw an acre of land upon which a settlement could be made. We travelled for a couple of miles with our horses wading through water, sometimes to the girth. Having found asmall patch of esculent-grass( which from its colour, is known here by the name of blue- grass), we attempted to stop and pasture our horses, but this we found impossible on account of the immense swarms of mosquitoes ( CillUCh OK M> I'hThH h IIIVKH. bl tliu vicinity. At the time we passed tliroui^li, we were informed that all the laud ubuiit the villaufo, uiid even that npun which it stands, was public property, but tiiut orders hud been issued to sell the whole, with the exception of about thirty acres near the fort, which were reserved for the use of the Indian agency. This ac- counted for the mean appearance of the houses, wliich are of log, rudely put U|), the roofs being made of clap boards kept down by logs. No person felt inclined to lay out money in building on property which could not be sold. The point of land upon which the town stands ap[)eais to be sandy, and of an inferior (juality, but we were cold that a very excellent soil prevailed in the vicinity. It was expected that the property would sell W( 11, and it was thought that the quarter section, (IGOaores,) upon which the town is situated, would yield at public sale ten thousand dollars. We were somewhat surprised to find that the inhabitants of the town expressed no dissatisfaction at the prospect of the sale of a property upon which they had been residing, free of rent, for so many years, and that not the least question was raised as to the justice or propriety of a measure, by which they were about to be dispossessed of the small lm|)rovenients which had been made by their fathers and themselves. But the population of Wayne partakes in this respect of the indifference and carelessness tliat characterize the two races from the admixture of which they have sprung. A circumstance which will add considerably to the future prosperity of Wayue, is its being at the commencement of the short portage of eight miles which separates the Maumee from the Wabash. Au extensive trade has already been carried on through this route, and as it VOL. 1. G li ' U'l ii- <«! 82 l;\l»KDiriON TO THE I i offers the most direct communication between the head of Lake Erie and the northern parts of Indiana, it will doubtless daily increase in importance. In the vicinity of Fort Wayne, on the west bank of the river, we were shown a small tree growing on the spot where "Little Turtle" was burled. This was one of the most celebrated Indian chiefs ever known to white men. His character is well remembered by the old resi- dents among the Indians, and from the accounts which have been given of him, we find but few names on record in the history of Indian chiefs that can be compared to his. His character will contrast advantageously with those of King Philip Ponliac, and Tecumseh. The influ- ence which he appears to have possessed over the Indians was unbounded. Under these circumstances, it is to be regretted that all the facts connected with his life and character, have not been collected with care. He is the same whom Volney describes as having met with in Phila- delphia in the year 1798. From the abstract furnished us by this able traveller of the conversations which he had with Little Turtle and with his interpreter. Captain Wells, we a»'e led to form a very high opinion of the sound philosophy, and excellent judgment possessed by this chief. Of his military talents we can entertain no doubt, since it is well ascertained that to him is chiefly to be ascribed the success which the Indians met with during the years 1791 and 1792. Like King Philip, Te- cumseh, &c. he is said to have entertained at one time the hope of forming an extensive coalition among the Indians, with a view to retrieve the soil of which they had been so unjustly deprived ; but meeting with diflS- culties, which he probably foresaw would be invincible, he, with more foresight than either of those chiefs, soon ''i.M sou lieu OF fT pktkr's river. 83 ; bank of the on the spot was one of ;^n to white the old resi- iints which Bson record ompared to ;eoiisly with . Theinaq. I* the Indians s, it is to be his life and . He is the ith in Phila- ^urnished us tiich he had ir, Captain nion of the possessed in entertain m is chiefly met with Philip, Te- it one time among the .vhich they with difli- invincible, ;hiefs, soon ^f discovered that the day for such measures had long since passed away, and that the only advisable course, which remained for his nation to adopt, would be to make peace with the invaders, and endeavour to improve by their superior information. In this manner he succeeded in rescuing them from that destruction, to which King Philip and Tecumseh were hurrying on their brethren, at the time that they themselves became victims to the wars which they had been instrumental in pro- ducing. Doubtless his great spirit flattered itself with the hope that, by an advancement in the arts of ci- vilized life, his brethren would regain that importance Avhich they seemed to be on the point of losing for ever. He had predicted the awful consequences of the approach of white men, " No woncler," said he, " the whites drive us every year further and further before them, from the sea to the Mississippi. They spread like oil on a blanket; and we melt like snow before the sun. If things do not greatly change, the red men will disappear very shortly." How well-founded this apprehension has proved, and how rapidly the prediction has been verified, let the experience of every traveller to the west attest. Little Turtle died in the year 1804 or 1805, and his death at that time is very much to be regretted, as the at- tachment which he had contracted for the American na- tion had become so great, that it is presumed he would have used his influence, which was very great, to pre- vent the Indians of that vicinity from joining the British during the late war ; and no doubt can be entertained that a peaceful policy, if supported by a man of his weight, would have prevailed. The naturalists to the expedition being aware that few or no skulls of Indians exist in the collections of our At- G 2 :l , i 1 f * 1 :U,|-!;.i: 'V^Jl ■1 ■ i I i Ml i I ! * i'il ^ ^^ ill! f^ I ;m Si ll INI KXPEDJTION TO TIlK lantic cities, were (le^iirous of procuring some, and among' others tlicy would have been pleased to obtain that of this celebrated chief. It would, in their opinion, have been interesting to observe, whether the examination of this head would have afibrded any support to the new, and as yet uncertain, science of Phrenology. The prin- cipal traits which have been collected of the character of Little Turtle might have been compared with the deve- lopments of the brain, and this comparison would per- haps have led to some interesting results. They were likewise in hopes, that by disinterring it they might have rescued, (for a while at least) from Ifinal decay, the head of one of the greatest men who, to our knowledge, have adorned the character of the American aborigines. But upon consulting with the gentlemen of the Indian department, they found that the memory of Little Turtle was so much revered by his nation, and the visits of In- dians to the grave of departed friends were so frequent, that such an attempt could not pass unnoticed, and that this apparent sacrilege would doubtless irritate them, and might lead to unpleasant consequences. The hope of obtaining this head was therefore abandoned. The expedition was as kindly treated as they could have wished, by the gentlemen attached to the Indian department at this place. General Tipton, (the present Indian agent.) and Mr. Hays, (the late agent,) afforded them all the facilities in their power j and to Mr. Ker- chevel, the sub-agent, they are under great obligations for the information which his long experience of the Indians, and his acquaintance with their language enabled him to communicate. In order to afford to the party an op- portunity of obtaining the best information, General Tip- ton sent for one of the principal chiefs in that vicinity, with whom thev conversed for two days. lU' ' e, and araong^ btain that of •pinion, have lamination of ; to the new, . The prin- character of ith the deve- would per- They were ^ might have :ay, the head knowledge, I aborigines. f the Indian Little Turtle visits of In- so frequent, :ed, and that ritate them, . The hope led. I they could ) the Indian (the present It,) afforded to Mr. Ker- ligations for 'the Indians, mabled him ►arty an op- reneral Tip- bat vicinity. m (;>' cj ; !, I I Ml i f m jfl y I- SOUncK OF ST. PKTKU S RIVKU. 85 The name of this man is Metea,* (\vluch signifies in the Potawatomi language, Kiss me.) He was repre- sented to us as being the greatest chief of the nation ; we had, liowever, an opportunity of ascertaining after- wards, that he is not the principal chief, but that he Itas, by his talents as a warrior and his eloquence as an orator, obtained considerable influence in the councils of his nation. He may be considered as a partisan, who, by his military achievements, has secured lo him- self the command of an independent tribe. He resides on the St. Joseph, about nine miles above Fort Wayne, at an Indian village called Muskwawasepeotan,t (town of the old red wood creek.) Being a chief of dis- tinction, he came accompanied by his brother ; as his rank required that he should be assisted by some one to light his pipe, and perform such other duties as always devolve upon attendants. Metea appears to be a man of about forty or forty-five years of age ; he is a full-blooded Potawatomi ; his stature is about six feet ; he has a forbidding aspect, by no means deficient in dignity j his features are strongly marked, and ex- pressive of a haughty and tyrannical disposition; his complexiou is dark; like most of the Potawatomis whom we met with, he is characterized by a low, aquiline, and well-shaped nose ; his eyes are small, elongated, an(i black; they are not set widely apart; his forehead is low and receding; the facial angle amounts to about 80°. His hair is black, and indicates a slight tendency to curl ; his cheek bones are remark- ably high and prominent, even for those of an Indian ; they are not, however, angular, but present very dis- ■ ! m •' :( Elf I iii- h Si . ■!■ t%^ * >rt;-t'i4'. f Mui-k\vil-\v'A-s*c-i)'e-o'-t'aii. ;} r 86 KXPKDITION TO TIIK if tinctly the rounded appearance which distinguishes the aboriginal American from the Asiatic. His mouth is large, the upper lip prominent ; there is something un- pleasant in his looks, owing to his opening one of his eyes wider than the other, and to a scar which he has upon the wing of his nostril. On first inspection, his countenance would be considered as expressive of defi- ance and impetuous daring, but upon closer scrutiny, it is found rather to announce obstinate constancy of purpose, and sullen fortitude. We behold in him all the charac- teristics of the Indian warrior to perfection. If ever an expression of pity or of the kinder affections belonged to his countenance, it has been driven away by the scenes of bloodshed and cruelty through which he has passed. His dress was old and somewhat dirty, but appeared to have been arranged upon his person with no small de- gree of care ; it consisted of leather leggings buttoned on the outside, a breecli-cloth of blue broadcloth, and a short checked shirt over it j the whole was covered with a blanket, which was secured round his waist by a belt, and hung not ungracefully from his shoulders, generally concealing his right arm, which is rendered useless and somewhat withered, from a wound received during the late war, when he attacked with a small party of Indians, the force that was advancing to the relief of Fort Wayne. His face was carefully painted with vermillion round hi.s left eye. Four feathers, coloured without taste, hung behind him secured to a string, which was tied to a look of his hair. In our second interview with him, he wore a red and white feather in his head, that was covered with other ornaments equally deficient in taste. Mr. Seymour took a likeness of him, which was considered a very striking one, by all who knew Metea. (Plate III.) juishes the mouth is ething un- one of his kich he has tectiou, his sive of defi- irutiny, it is of purpose, the cbarac- If ever an 18 belonged y the scenes has passed, ippeared to small de- gs buttoned ;loth, and a overed with it by a belt, s, generally useless and during the of Indians, ort Wayne, n round his aste, hung d to a look D, he wore as covered taste. Mr. considered (Plate III.) 1: ^ T'l SOrUCU OF ST I'fcTKK !» HIVKK. 87 The chief was accompanied by his brother, who is much younger and resembles him, but whose features indicate a more amiable and interesting disposition. We observed, that during the interview, the latter treated Metca with much respect, always preparing and lighting his pipe, and never joining in the conversation, unless when addressed by the chief. On entering the room where the gentlemen of the party were, Metea ?hook hands with the agent, but took no notice of the rest of the company, until General Tipton had explained to him, through his interpreter, the nature of the expedi- tion ; the objects of his great father, the President, in sending it among the Indians; and the information which would be expected from him j he informed him likewise that his time and trouble would be suitably rewarded. The chief then arose from his seat, shook hands with all who were present, told them that he would very will- ingly reply to all their questions, but that according to usage, he was bound to repeat to his nation all the ques- tions that would be asked, and the replies which he would make ; that there were certain points, however, on which he could give no information, without having first obtained the formal consent of his community : that on those subjects he would remain silent, while to all others he would reply with cheerfulness, and that after they should have concluded their inquiries, he would likewise ask them some questions, upon points which he thought concerned his nation, and to which he trusted they would in like manner reply. He then resumed his seat, and answered with much intelligence, and with a remarkable degree of patience, all the questions which were asked of him. The Potawatomis, whose name, as sounded by them- (; 4 u \n I'l Jl f - k . I i ;i ■ill I Mi !!! I 88 EXPBOITIOS TO THK themselves, is Potawatomc,* (in their language, " we are making fire,") appear to be connected not only by lan- guage, but also by their manners, customs, and opinions, with the numerous, nations of Algonquin origin. The languages of all these nations bear evident marks of a common origin, and in some cases appear only to be dia- lects of the same tongue ; and although diversities of dress and of dialect distinguish them, their customs and usages are evidently, for the most part, the same. Their traditions as to their origin are very uncertain. They believe that the first meeting between them and the Miamis occurred at a time not very remote. The Potawatomis resided on the banks of Lake Michi- gan. Of their first meeting with the Miamis, the follow- ing tradition appears to be fresh in the recollection of all. It is said that a Miami, having wandered out from his cabin, met three Indians whose language was unin- telligible to him ; by signs and motions he invited them to follow him to his cabin, where they were hospitably entertained, and where they remained until dark. Dur- ing the night, two of the strange Indians stole from the hut, while their comrade and host were asleep; they took a few embers from the cabin, and placing these near the door of the hut, they made a fire, which being afterwards seen by the Miami and his remaining guest, was understood to imply a council fire in token of peace between the two nations. From this circumstance the Miami called them in his language Wahonaha,f or the makers, which being translated into the other language, produced the terra by which this nation has ever since been distinguished. J All the Indians of this part of the * Pi.t4-w'a-to'-me. + Wa-h^i-nS-h^. I This tradition, together with a considerable part of the circumstances circumstances SOUHCK OF ST. PETKIl S IllVKri. m country recognise their alliance with the Delaware In- dians, whom they seem to consider as their forefathers, applying to them in councils the appellation of " Grand- fathers," and recognising their right of interfering and of deciding in last resort in all their national concerns. This right extends, however, only so far as to make their ap!)robation necessary to the adoption of any important measure. Should it be withheld, the matter is again referred to the nations, for consideration in their sepa- rate councils ; and should they persevere in the measure, it would bring on a separation of the alliance, and the nation refusing to submit to the decision of their grand- fathers, would be considered as strangers. No such in- stance is, however, recorded, and it is a remarkable trait in the character of all Indian institutions, as far as we observed, that the principle of the binding influence of the will of the majority is unknown. In all their deci- sions, unanimity must be obtained, and very seldom fails to be procured. Firmness of purpose and an invincible perseverance in all plans against national enemies, seem with them to be united to a great spirit of concilia- tion among themselves, and to an indifference as to the final result of any mea>iure which they advocate in their councils. The success of a measure depends altogether upon the personal influence of the man who brings it forward. If he be one whom they deem wise in his ge- neration, or if he be supposed to be gifted with super- natural talents, they will yield to his suggestions without which we shall embody in the following pages, was obtained from the Agent's Interpreter, Mr. Joseph Barron, a man whose long residence among the In- dians, extensive acquaintance with their character, together with his unim- peachable veracity, confer much value upon all the information obtained from him. I I .. ' 90 KXl'KDITION TO VII K ■ii .m II 4 opposition ; if, on the contrary, he be possessed of but little weight, he meets with no support, and his good sense probably induces hiin to relinquish his scheme. When the Miamis first met with the Potuwatoniis, they applied to them the title of younger brothers ; but this was afterwards changed, and their seniority acknow- ledged, from the circumstance that they resided further to the west ; as those nations which reside to the west of others are deemed more ancient. This was settled in a council of the two nations, held some time after their first meeting; the Potawatomis being at present ac- knowledged and styled elder brothers, and the Miamis younger brothers : but the council fire is always held with the Miamis. By some it is mentioned, that they have no recollection of the Potawatomis having ever as- sisted at any council fire but one, which was held on the St. Joseph, (of Lake Michigan ?) and at which the Cbip- pewas, Potawatomis, and Ottowas were present.* Their notions of religion appear to be of the most simple kind ; they believe in the existence of an only God, whom they term Kashamaneto,* or Great Spirit. Kasha means great, and Maneto an irresistible almighty being. The epithet of Kasha is never applied to any other word, but as connected with the Supreme Being. It would be highly indecorous to apply it to a • This statement is taken from a valuable manuscript of observations con- cerning tlie Indians, communicated to the party by Dr. Thomas P. Hall, Surgeon U. S. A. Dr. Hall was stationed at Chicago at the time we visited that post. His opportunities of obtaining information were such, as to render his notes valuable, and they are particularly so in the medical parts, from which we have made many extracts. As the observations, which he made, relate principally to the Potawatomis, it lias been thought proper to <;onne(;t them with those made at Fort Wayne. t Kd-sh'^-mi-ne-t^S. 1 1 &OUUCE OK ST. I>UTKR S KIVKIl. M house, a horse, or any other visible object. Yet it is, in a few instances, applied to a good man, in order to give more force to the expression, by connecting his good qualities with those which they ascribe to the Great Spirit. They recognise also un Evil Spirit, whom they call Matchamaneto^ (from matcha, which signifies bad). This unfavourable epithet is not restricted in its applica- tion, but is extended to all unpleasant or disagreeable objects. They consider themselves as indebted to the Good Spirit for the warm winds from the south, while the Evil one sends the cold winds and storms of the north. The Matchamaneto resides in the cold regional of the north, where the sun never shines. The Kasha- maneto, on the contrary, dwells at the '^ midday-sun's place." Their worship appears to be principally ad- dressed to the Evil Spirit, whom they think it expedient to propitiate ; the good one needing no prayers, for his natural goodness will always induce him to assist and protect man without being reminded of it by his peti- tions ; neither do they believe that their prayers to the Evil Spirit can in any manner displease the Good. In certain cases, however, as when afflicted with disease, or wUeiii impelled to it in a dream, they will offer a sacrifice of living animals to the Kashamaneto. This is generally done at the suggestion of one of the chiefs or- leaders, who calls all the warriors together, explains to them his views, and appoints one of them to go in search of a buck, to another he commits the killing of a raccoon, to a third he allots some other animal to be killed ; and when they have been successful in their respective hunts, they meet and fasten the first buck which they kill, upon a high pole, and leave it in this 'II 1 m RXPKDITION TO TIIK l< I I i f«itualion, so that it may serve as a sacrifice to the Great Spirit. Any other animal would answer as well as a buck. Upon the remainder of the chace they feast. After having boiled the animal^ they partake of it in the name of the Great Spirit. The object of these sacrifices is to obtain luck in their pursuits, whether of hunting or fighting ; these feasts are generally accompanied with prayers, dancing, singing, &c. The only period when they have regular sacrifices is during the winter and spring of the year, at which time many of the warriors give feasts ; each selects the time that suits him best, and invites such guests as he thinks proper. Having assembled them all, he rises, takes a sort of tambourine formed by fastening a piece of skin or parchment upon a frame, he beats upon this and addresses himself to the divinity, accompanying his invocation by many violent gestures. They have no set form of prayer j when he has concluded, he resumes his seat, hands over the tam- bourine to another, who proceeds in the same manner. They have regular songs, which they sing together on such occasions. No other music is ever used but that of the tambourine.* Among the Potawatomis polygamy is not only allow- ed but even encouraged ; a man has two or more wives, sometimes four, according to his skill and success as a hunter. The number of wives which an Indian keeps, is equal to that which he can support and maintain ; he, * Among the Shawanese there is a solemn festival called the green corn dance, which resembles the oflFering of tlie first fruits as enjoined to the Israelites. This practice is said to exist among the Creeks, Cherokces, and other southern tribes, but is unknown to the Potawatomis and other nations, which live in the neighbourhood of the Sliawanese. It is said, that among the latter, however ripe an individual's corn may be, h will not pluck it until after the celebration of the festival. i) ROirUrK OF ST. I'KTKU » lUVKII. therefore, tlmt has many, \» respected as being a better or more favoured hunter tluin he that has but one wife. Dr. Hall observes that poiyt^amy exists in the proportion of twenty-five percent., that some men have three, four, or five wives, and one man was known to have eitfht. They appear to be very attentive to the proper education to be given to children, in order to impart to them those qua- lities both of the mind and body, which shall enable them to endure fatigue and privation, and to obtain an influ- ence, either in the councils of the nation, or during their military operations. When questioned on this subject, Metea repliecl, thatwhilehe wasyet very young, hisfather began to instruct him, and incessantly, day after day, and night after night, taught him the traditions, the laws and ceremonies of his nation. ^'This he did," said Metea, " that I miglit one day benefit my country with my counsel." The education of boys generally commences at ten or twelve years of age ; they accustom them early to the endurance of cold, by making them bathe every morning in winter. They likewise encourage them to habituate themselves to the privation of food. In this manner, children are observed to acquire, more readily, the qualifications which it is desirable for an Indian to possess. Parents use no compulsory means to reduce their children to obedience, but they generally succeed in obtaining a powerful influence over them, by acting upon their fears; they tell them that if they do not behave themselves as they are bid, they will irritate the Great Spirit, who will deprive them of all luck as hunters, and as warriors. This, together with the con- stant and never ceasing importance, which the children observe, that their parents attribute to luck in all their pursuits, is found to have the desired effect upon the I'l ' ' .H u 94 EXPKDtTION TO THE 4) UA SI! fp minds of young persons, fired with the ambition of be- coming distinguished, at some future day, by their skill and success. Their fasts are marked by the ceremony of smearing their faces, hands^ &c. with charcoal. To effect this, they take a piece of wood of the length of the finger, and suspend it to their necks, they char one end of it, and rub themselves with the coal every morn> ing, keeping it on until after sunset. No person, whose face is blackened, dare eat or drink any thing during that time; whatever may be the cravings of his appetite, he must restrict them until the evening arrives, when he may wash off his black paint, and indulge, mode- rately, in the use of food. The next morning he repeats the ceremony of blackening his face, and continues it from day to day, until the whole of his piece of wood be consumed, which generally takes place in the course of from ten to twelve days. After this term, they either suspend their mortifica- tions, or continue them according as the exigencies of the case seem to require. From the information which was communicated by the interpreter and others, it does not appear that, in any one instance, have the Indians ever been known to break their fasts, whatever may have been the temptation to which they were exposed j so po'verful, indeed, is their superstitious dread of that ii! luck, which would attach to a transgression of their rules, that even children have been, in vain, tempted to take food when at the houses of traders, and bevond the control of their parents ; in all cases they have declined it J neither does it appear that, during those seasons of mortification, they indulge after sunset, in any unreason- able gratification of their appetite ; in this respect, therefore, they prove themselves more consistent than $ M)L'nCE OK ST, PKTBR.S RIVKK. 95 the Mahometans, who are said, while their Ramadani or lent lasts, to make up by the debaucheries in which they indulge in the night time, for the painful restric- tions imposed upon them during the day, by the precepts of their prophet. The same apprehensions which will prevent an Indian, whether man or boy, from tasting food, while covered with this coating of charcoal, will not allow him to shorten the term of his penance by consuming the piece of wood too hastily. If he does not use it sparingly he is certain that the charm or virtue with which he invests it^, will be dispelled. In addition to these mortifications, the Indian attempts to impress upon his offspring a permanent and unshaken belief in the existence of a Great Spirit, ruler of the universe, whose attributes are kindness to men, and a desire of relieving them from all their afflictions : the necessity of doing all that may be grateful to him is often recurred to, in those exhortations by which every Indian parent instructs his sons, both morning and evening. It does not appear that the same care is extended to the re- ligious principles of females. We never heard of their joining in fasts or mortifications; they are not allowed to take a part in the public sacrifices, and as they have no concern in the noble occupations of war or the chace, it probably matters but little whether or not they are agreeable in the sight of the Great Spirit. The only inducement which they have to pray is, that they may continue to hold a place in the affections of their husbands ; but the men, being quite indifferent upon this point, would deem it unworthy of their superior rank in the creation, to bestow a thought upon the subject. These Indians are represented as displaying, among J f *% r m a. 'i ' '\ ' h ■ r ■ l!r 1 5 >■ : jf ■ i ^ I •: V ;■■ ; J it y > 1 « \ H i 1:1, ■ ■\n ; 1.'' "'!■ !.;H ' '1 lf( EXPKDITION TO THE the men of their own tribe, many of the virtues which have long been considered as peculiar to man in a state of civilization. Children incapacitated from labour or exertion, by accident or deformity, are carefully at- tended to, and seldom allowed to suffer, from a priva- tion of any of the comforts which the rest of the tribe enjoy. It is considered disgraceful in a man, to inflict any Injury upon a helpless or unprotected person. It is said that, in a few instances, children born deformed have been destroyed by their mothers; but these instan- ces are rare and, whenever discovered, uniformly bring them into disrepute, and are not unfrecpiently punished by some of the near relations. Independent of tliese cases, .vhich are but rare, a few instances of infan- ticide, by single women, in order to conceal intrigue, have been heard of; but they are always treated with ab- horrence. In like manner, when going out on hunting excursions, elderly parents have been known to be abandoned or exposed to a certain death ; but these were likewise rare cases, which may be considered as always carrying with them a severe punishment, by the utter contempt and detestation in which those who com- mitted them were held. When questioned upon this point, Metea denied that it had ever happened ; " as they have taken pains to raise us when we were young," said he, *' it is but fair that we should return this care to them in their old age." Instances have, however, occurred even among the Potawatomis ; one of which took place on the Milwacke, when a decrepit old vyoman, who had no horse to remove her from that place, was burned by them. In painful and violent diseases, Indians are sometimes killed at their own request, and afterwards burned to prevent contagion ft ti SOURCE OF ST. PETKIl's KIVKR. 97 tues which 1 in a state labour or refully at- )m a priva- f the tribe ij to inflict person. It n deformed tiese instan- >rmly bring ly punished nt of these s of infan- al intrigue, ted witVi ab- on hunting lown to be ; these were d as always V the utter who coni- upon this cncd ; " as re young," •n this care , however, le of which ere pit old from that ,nd violent their own contagion or the disease falling upon another. Their attention to old persons, and tlieir respect towards them, may be considered as virtues in which they pride them- selves most, and which they exercise most fre- quently. To ideots they likewise generally extend a kind and humane treatment. By their relations, ideots are always treated with tenderness; but the idle and foolish, who arc not connected with them, though they never abuse, will sometimes ridicule them ; in this respect, imitating the treatment to which they are so inhumanly, yet so frequently exposed, from the unthinking, even among civilized nations. There are some persons among them who think that ideots are possessed of more intellect than they make show of, and who believe them to be endued with much intelligence ; but by none are they held in the light of sorcerers. The same opinion is likewise entertained of insane persons, who are supposed by some to hold converse with the Deity ; this opinion is not, however, universally adopted. Care is taken, in the physical education of the Potawatomi, from his earliest age, that his body should be straight and well-formed ; no attempt, however, is made to change the shape of the head : the observations which have been made on this subject by various travellers, apply only to certain nations, one of which is designated by the term of Flat-heads, and It Is highly Incorrect to consider them as general. The shape of the head is one of the features which assist most In the discrimination of the various tribes. It is at least as easy, for a person well acquainted with the Indians, to distinguish between the different nations, as It Is among white men to observe differences between the various races that in- voL. I. n {■[yi m M- A I 98 EXPEDITION TO THE ill H M habit Europe ; to an Indian this is even easier, as his long habits of scrutiny have made him quick at noticing diffe- rences which would escape the attention of less practised observers. " We know every tribe at first sight," said Little Turtle, " the shape, colour, legs, knees, and feet, are all to us certain marks of distinction/' If, in the intercourse of the Potawatomi with men of his own tribe, we observe many of the virtues and finer feelings which adorn mankind in all situations ; we have, unfortunately, cause to regret, that in his conduct to- wards other nations, he appears under very disadvan- tageous colours. To a stranger, if he be not an enemy, it is true, that he will extend the most unrestricted hospitality : his principles, as well as his habits of life, prevent his greeting him, or joining him in conversation; but all that the most liberal spirit can do, to secure to him a friendly and fraternal reception, is cordially done. In all his actions, words, and motions, the stranger must, however, take heed lest he reveal himself to be an enemy ; for in that case, not the bread that they have been breaking together, nor the tobacco of which they have both smoked, nor the sacred laws of hospi- tality, could protect the guest from the vengeance which the Potawatomi considers as enjoined upon him by the paramount obligation of destroying his enemy, or that of his nation, wherever he may meet with him. Their feeling of hatred and resentment against all nations with which they are at war, has led them to deeds, from the recital of which we shrink with disgust. Among these there is none more horrible, and on the subject of which so much difference of opinion has existed, as that of cannibalism, as ascribed to them by numerous travellers. We find it asserted, in plain terms, by some •I ' f SOUKCE OK ST. PKTER S KJVKIt. 9i) ', as his long iticing diife- ;ss practised sight," said es, and feet, with men of les and liner IS ; we have, conduct to- ry disadvan- t an enemy, unrestricted abits of life, onversation ; to secure to irdially done, the stranger imself to be id that they ceo of which vs of hospi- ;eance which I him by the smy, or that him. Their ; all nations m to deeds, ust. Among le subject of sted, as that numerous ms, by some of the oldest writers upon America.* But it has been brought into question by many, who, having never visited the Indians, have been influenced by a laudable incredulity, springing doubtless from a justifiable wish to close their eyes and ears against evidence which bears so hardly upon human nature. With these feelings the gentlemen of the expedition first beard the reports of the anthropophagi of the Potawatomi, and yielded but * The fact which we advance here of the cannibalism of the Potawato- mis, is not new, as regards the North American Indians, though some travellers may have asserted it not to exist among them. " I think," says Hennepin, " that the Neros and Maximinians of old never invented greater cruelties to test the patience of martyrs, than the torments to which the Iroquois expose their enemies. And when we saw that their children were cutting slices of flesh from the slave whom their parents had murdered with the most unheard of cruelties, and that these young anthro- pophagi were eating the flesh of this man in our own presence, we with- drew from the hut of the chief, and we would eat with them no longer, and we retraced our steps through forests to Niagara river."— Page 40, and again, in page 304-. " In this confusion it was not difficult for the Iroquois, united with the Miamis, to carry away about eight hundred slaves, both women and yoimg men. These anthropophagi ate immediately several old men of the Illinoies nation, and burned a few others who had not strength enough to follow them to the country of the Iroquois, more than four hundred leagues distant." He however makes an exception in favour of the Nadiousioux, (Sioux?) whom he asserts, " not to be so inhuman, and not to partake of human flesh." (Page 68. Description de la Louisianne, &c. &c. par le R. P. Louis Hennepin, &c. Paris. 1683. 12mo.) Even Adair, who may be considered as the great sceptic on this subject, in the same page in which he rejects the charge as a false one, states that he could not learn " that they had eaten human flesh, only the heart of the enemy, which they all do sympathetically, (blood for blood,) in order to inspire them with courage." • » • * " To eat the heart of an enemy will, in their opinion, like eating other things before mentioned, communicate and give greater heart against the enemy," &c. Page 133. History of the American Indians, by James Adair, Esq. London, 1774. 4to. 11 2 ■a: if" fail Mi' 1 i' 1 \ if.'' . ' i ii , ■ ij 1 rl i ■:il ii \i.*^ 100 KXI'KDITION TO THE im i if i J ■ ^!l 'i an uinvilUng ear to every thing that could induce a belief in the existence of this disgusting trait in the character of the Lorth-west Indians. Truth compels them however to assert, that the reports which they have received on this subject were so frequent, so cir- cumstantial, and derived from such respectable sources, that any concealment of it, or any apparent incredulity on their part, would be a dereliction of duty. Even the most incredulous of the party, or those disposed to enter- tain the most favourable opinion of the Indians, were at last compelled to acknowledge that all doubt on the subject had been removed from their minds. They have been asked, whether they had ever been present at such a feast ? and they have heard it asserted by respectable persons, that nothing but the autoptical observation of the travellers, could induce them to place any credit in this imputed cannibalism ; to this it may be replied, that, travelling as they did, at a time when the Indians were comparatively in a state of peace, when few and but accidental hostilities had occurred among them, and these always at a distance from the route which they pur- sued ; it could not be expected that they should have been themselves eye-witnesses to these infamous orgies. But if it can be adduced in support of their assertion, that the fact has been acknowledged by the Indians them- selves, by those that had perpetrated the deed, that it has been uniformly admitted by the interpreters and traders who have long resided among them, who are con- nected to them by the intermixtures, who are themselves partly Indians, and who declare that they have been pre- sent at the time it took place ; if the names of the indi- viduals who became victims to it, can be mentioned ; if the additional circumstance of its having been observed i !)' '1 ■; , ■'! ii tt^.! « ' S'a 'e SOURCE OF ST. PHTEIl S RIVKR. 101 at several thousand of miles distance, but among those Indians who are known to be of the same nation, and who speal< dialects of the same language, be taken into consideration ; if these facts should be corroborated by names expressive of this custom^ given to certain places by the Indians themselves, and if all these should be found to concur with the observations recorded in the histories of the first travellers in America (who, whatever may have been their errors, must be considered as hav- ing adhered more closely to truth than is generally supposed) ; then, with all this circumstantial evidence strongly and uniformly bearing on one side of the ques- tion, is it possible for the most sceptical to refuse his belief to this fact, whatever may be the horror which attends it? We are far however from asserting, that this practice has prevailed universally among the In- dians ; the evidences on the subject of the cannibalism of the Dacota or Sioux Indians (Naudowessies of Carver) are too few and too suspicious ; they are refuted by too many contradictory facts to permit us to place any con- fidence in them ; but the case is otherwise with the Chippewas, the Miamis, the Potawatomis, and all the other Indian nations, which are known to be of Algon- (|uin origin. The motives which impel them to cannibalism are various : in some cases it is produced by a famine over the country, and of this we shall be able to cite a num- ber of well attested instances, some of which carry with them very horrible features, when we treat of the Chip- pewa tribes, west of Lake Superior. Another, and a more frequent cause, is the desire of venting their rage upon a defeated enemy, or a belief that, by so doing, they acquire a charm that will make them irresistible. It is H 3 ^!■ ■;,fc ^ ^1 '■f 102 KXrKDITION TO TUB a common superstition witli them, that he that tastes of the body of a brave man acquires a part of liis valour, and that if he can eat of his heart, which by them is con- sidered as the seat of all courage, the share of bravery which he derives from it is still greater. It matters not whether the foe be a white man or an Indian ; pro- vided he be an enemy, it is all that is required. Mr. Barron tias seen the Potawatomis, with the hands and limbs both of white men and Cherokees, which they were about to devour. It is well attested, that one of the officers attached to General Harmer's command was taken prisoner by the Miamis previously to the defeat of the whole array, and tortured by them in the most cruel and unrelenting manner for three days, on the west bank of the Mau- mee. The Indians declared that he had behaved with a remarkable degree of fortitude. Pieces of flesh were cut off from his body, roasted, and eaten by them in the presence of the agonized victim. No exclamation or groan could be drawn from the intrepid prisoner, until a squaw thrust a burning brand into his privates, when he was heard to exclaim, " Oh my God I" A young Indian warrior then declared that the prisoner, having proved iiimself a brave man, should no longer be kept in agony, and put a period to his sufferings by despatch- ing him with his tomahawk. / : ('. One of the best attested instances, is that of Captain Wells who was killed after the capture of Chicago in 1812. This man, who had been a long time among the Indians, having been taken prisoner by them at the age of thirteen, had acquired a great reputation for cou- rage; and his name is still mentioned as that of the bravest white man with whom they ever met. He had (.■ SOUIICK OK ST. PKTKR S UIVKH. 103 almost become one of their number, and had united himself to a descendant of Little Turtle. At the com- mencement of hostilities between Britain and the United States, he sided with his own countrymen^ while the Indians of this vicinity all passed into the British ser- vice. When the fort was afterwards besieged by the united Indians, Captain Wells was there, having ar- rived just two days before with the orders from General Hull for the evacuation of the post. Wells was killed after the action, his body was divided, and his heart was shared, as being the most certain spell for courage, and part of it was sent to the various tribes in alliance with the Pota- watomis, while they themselves feasted upon the rest. Among some tribes, cannibalism is universal, but it appears that among the Potawatomis it is generally re- stricted to a society or fraternity, whose privilege and duty it is, on all occasions, to eat of the enemy's flesh ; at least one individual must be eaten. The flesh is some- times dried and taken to the village. Not only are the members of this fraternity endued with great virtues, but it is said they can impart them, by means of spells, to any individual whom they wish to favour. No warrior can be elected into the association, except by the una- nimous consent of its members. In such a case, the candidate for this distinction, which is held in great es- teem, makes a fine present to the society. We shall have an opportunity of recurring on some future occa- sion to this subject, and we shall be enabled to prove the participation in this nefarious practice, of many Indian tribes collected together on a memorable occasion, at the siege of Fort Meigs, in 1813. We do not wish to be considered as asserting that human flesh is usually, or as a matter of preference, eaten by these II 4 ii i'' ' !.■'-■ .i it *''■ is: If' 1 ^>-.. 104 KXPKDITION TO TtlK f'l'ff 1 ) 1 1 1 ,1 i,S| Indians, or by any others with whom we may have met ; but that it has been eaten on many occasions under the most aggravating circumstances, and without the least shadow of necessity, we consider as fully established. Of their first origin, their ideas appear to be very confused. They all consider the earth as their mother, and some of them are impressed with the belief that they formerly resided under ground, and that they rose out from it. On this subject Mr. Keating held a con- versation of more than an hour with RicharvlUe, one of the principal chiefs of the Mianiis, who gave him a long but confused account of the division which exists among the Miamis, into two tribes, one of which con- siders itself as having risen from the waters, and the other from the centre of the earth. Those of Neptu- nian origin, made their way as is believed, to riie sur- face, by climbing up trees, &c. The man who gave this account is a half-breed Miami, his father having been a Frenchman ; he speaks very good French. At the time we saw him, he was dressed like a trader, and from his appearance, manners and language, we should never have suspected him to be any other than a Cana- dian fur-dealer. He is said, howev-^-, to possess con- siderable influence with his tribe. He sometimes as- sumes the Indian costume, with the exception of the blanket, for which he always substitutes a capote. In the conversation which we had with him, we had reason to consider liim as well entitled to the reputation which he has acquired, of being one of the most artful and de- ceitful of his nation. He declined meeting the party in conference, stating that the other chiefs of his tribe were absent, and that the circumstance of his holding a conference with white men might expose him to sus- SOURCK or ST. PETKH S RIVGR. 105 picion, which would the more readily attach to him on account of his being himself but a half-breed. This reason was too plausible to allow of our objecting to it : and we regretted that we could not put to the test the sincerity of his offer to answer all our questions, in n few days, when the other men of his nation should have arrived. The gentleman of the f)arty who conversed with him, observed that he had never met with a man whose manners evinced so much cunning and subtilty as those of this chief. Affecting not to understand ques- tions to which he did not choose to reply, and involving all his answers in obscurity, he imparted no information concerning the points upon which he was questioned, except, in the instance already alluded to, of the division of the Miamis into two tribes, whose origins are sup- posed to be so different. This might be considered as very interesting, if any confidence could be placed in such a man as Richarville. Of his craft and worthless- ness an idea can be formed from the circumstance that, when negotiating on the part of the Miamis a treaty with the commissioners at Chicago, he made it an indis- pensable condition that a tract of nine sections of land should be secured to him in fee simple, while the rest of his nation are merely joint-tenants on their lands, and destitute of the privilege of disposing of the same, except with the consent of the Government of the United States. It must be regretted, that this mode of obtaining the assent of chiefs to a treaty, by private presents, grants, &c. should ever have been allowed. It was, we believe, first introduced by the French, whose object was, by these pretended treaties, to which the chiefs of the nations were bribed to give their consent, to obtain a colour of right which the French government could afterwards muintaiii 1 1 lb. 1 ili 1 ! W jji '4 Mi . j lif iii . 1 ;i| f' I 100 KXPKDITIUN TO THE !l ! .( ;! Iff I p! against European nations. Tliis practice lias existed no long, and is so universal, that it would, perhaps, be dif- ficult to make a treaty with the Indians, if presents or grants were withheld from the chiefs j but in order to put to the test the correctness of the principle, we need but look to the feelings which would be excited if an Euro- pean power, while discussing the terms of a treaty with our government, were to offer or to consent to give any private presents to the negotiators on the part of our country. Richarville retains his attachment to the Bri- tish government, and although residing upon our terri- tory, and sharing in the annuity paid by the United States to the Miamis, he still holds a commission in the British service, and his name still appears on the half- pay or pension list of Great Britain. ^/ . ,. Metea told us that the Potawatomis thought that they had always existed in the neighbourhood of Lake Michi- gan : that the first man and woman had been made by the Great Spirit. God sowed the seed and the men sprung up. When called upon to explain what he meant by this, he gave to understand that he had used the language in a figurative point of view, and as a pa- rable. Their tradition at first mentioned but one ori- ginal couple, the parents of the red people, from whom they believed themselves to have descended. But when they became acquainted with the different races of men, they supposed a couple of white, and another of black, had likewise been created by the Great Spirit, and that these had given rise to the white and black people whom they had since seen, but Richarville had not troubled him- self much with thinking on this subject. Soon after the white men came among them, they were told that, far to the setting sun, there was a^ race of people whose m KOUIICR 09 ST. PKTKIl's RIVRH. 107 tth las existed so •haps, be dif- f presents or I order to put we need but if an Euro- a treaty with t to give any part of our It to the Url- on our terri- the United lission in the on the half. ^ht that they Lake Michi- 3en made by id the men in what he he had used ind as a pa- )Ut one ori- from wliom But when ces of men, ?r of black, it, and that ople whom tubled him- >n after the d that, far iple whose features and complexion resembled theirs. This had led them to think and discuss this matter frequently among themselves ; they had often inquired from other nations whence they came, but they found strong rea- sons to adhere to their old traditions, that the land on which they now resided was that upon which the Great Spirit had first placed them. Metca has always been of the opinion that there is but one God, who is a Supreme Being, but that he made a Spirit or God to be under him, M'hose special duty it is to take charge of the Indians. This he thought to be the common opinion of all Indians whom he knew. This inferior Deity stood to the Supreme Being in the same relation that the red man stands to the white. The existence of a Bad Spi- rit is considered as proved by the circumstance of there being bad men, for a Good Spirit could not have made any thing that was evil. When questioned as to his opinion of a future life, and the immortality of the soul, he unhesitatingly replied that he had heard the white men talk of those things, but that he had no belief whatever in them. He thought that after the death both body and spirit decayed and disap- peared ; nor would he at all acknowledge a belief in the doctrine, which he had heard asserted by the interpreter to be generally entertained by the Indians, that the spirits of the departed returned after death to the Master of Life. In replying to this question, he made use of a strong expression, ** as a dog dies, so man dies — the dog rots after death, so does man decay after he has ceased to live." Being asked if it was true that they placed provisions near the dead, both at the time of death and afterwards, md if true, wherefore this was T!" I. \i 108 KXPKDITION TO THE 4 A' w ) done — if both spirit and bo HIVKH. 117 fed to ac- lan, which e, and not the Euro- rhey trace uable con- B given by ;ed it, they 3 with, and le water in iius obtain- dinients of [luring dry [ave taught substance holds it in illy igoranc ?y had no- )uld result ■ the sun. e men, it linted with lecotion of i was used It produced 3r. Hall at itomis fre- atter were sed except r are there- ttended too tribes de- i.-J signnted by the name of animals, as is reported to be the case with the Missouri Indians, but they are dis- tinguished merely from their local habitations. Those that live on the St. Joseph form a small tribe, in every respect similar to those residing near Chicago, or near LakeMichigan. Although not divided into regular tribes, they have a sort of family distinction, kept up by means of signs resembling those of heraldry. These signs are, by them, called Totem ;♦ they are taken from an animal or from some part of it, but by no means imply a sup- posed relationship with that animal, as has been incor- rectly stated. It is merely a distinguishing mark or badge, which appears to belong to every member of a family, whether male or female. The latter retain it even after matrimony, and do not assume that of their husbands. It does not appear that this implies the least obligation of the Indian, to the animal from which it is taken. He may kill it or eat it. The totem appears to answer uo other purpose than that of distinguishing families ; it does not imply any degree of nobility or inequality of rank among them. It is the same custom, which is improperly attributed by Carver to the Dacota or Sioux Indians (Naudowessie). Independently of the name which he bears, and of the totem or badge of family to which he lays claim, an Indian has frequently a kind spirit to watch over him and assist him. This tutelar saint is, of course, held in high veneration, and nothing is done that could in the least offend him. The mode in which each Indian becomes acquainted with the name or nature of this ministering spirit, is by dreams, in which he fancies that the Master of Life reveals himself to him in his • Th.t'lm. I 3 4: 'it f''lfe t n A'i' '^Ml illi ; M h ,1 I'i'' :-]■%•■ . .: In ■' i'^r i: iUlti f M%' :t li .l^i- = :,!. .Sl t' !|ir iW H: '''*#. .l'\ii m ; '■! i if ■ B-'JK ' ' ■^'^tSt l- ^i flp ^ i; B- : ijf |li \ t Bfe fl 1 s? ill '-' vi^^H ■;'!' ' ^;f ; i J'i ■ I' 118 ^1 KXPHDITION TO THK of ible object sleep, under the form ot some tangiDie ooject iii creation, generally of an animal ; under this shape the Great Spirit holds converse with him, and the Indian ever after supposes that this is the form in which he may expect to see the Great Spirit appear to him. To this animal, whom he considers as a medium of communication between him and the Master of Life, he addresses his prayers and states his wants ; he consults it in all his difficulties, and not unfrequently conceives that he has derived relief from it. Of course,*" he abstains from eating of the animal, and would rather starve than sacrilegiously feed upon his idol. But he holds the animal as a friend to himself alone. He knows that others have different spirits, and hence does not think himself bound to protect that animal against his companions, because he knows that there is no virtue in the animal for any one but himself. Some- times, instead of the whole animal, it is only in some part of it that the charm resides, and in this case he will feel no hesitation in eating of all the other parts of the beast. In their conversation, the Indians frequently display considerable humour. Their attempts at wit are nu- merous and often successful ; but their wit, as well as the general tenour of their conversation, is obscene: in proof of this, we might, if it were necessary, mention several instances ; but they have been so frequently noticed by the travellers who have preceded us, that we feel ourselves excused from doing it. As an in- stance of an attempt at what they consider as wit, the following was related to us : an Indian called for milk ; when they were about to give him some, he pointed to a whiskey bottle, and observed that it was the milk of that black covv that he wanted. Such an observation m \i III fe,. u: i ■« object ill shape the the Indian which he ir to him. medium of ,er of Life, he consults ly conceives course,*^he ould rather [>1. But he alone. He and hence that animal 3 that there self. Some- n some part he will feel of the beast, ntly display vit are nu- as well as is obscene: ry, mention frequently ed us, that As an in- as wit, the d for milk ; lointed to a he milk of observation If 1% SOUUCK OK ST. rKTEil S HlVKH. 119 is sure to draw peals of laughter from all about them, which encourages them to proceed. But, perhaps, the most remarkable trait in their conversation is, that they feel none of that delicacy or restraint, which, among civilized nations, has proscribed many words from general use. With them every idea which enters into their head, or every word which they think of, ,is ut- tered without any respect for the company present. With this apparent obscenity in their conversation, the Indians arc very guarded in their actions, and their manners indicate a considerable degree of native mo* (lesty. In this they generally excel the white men who live with them ; and it is a fact, well attested by the experience of all who have spent any time among them, tliat they are seldom or never observed in an obscene or indecorous attitude. Metea was asked, whether he had ever heard of any tradition accounting for the formation of those artificial mounds, which are found scattered over the whole country ; when he immediately replied, that they had been constructed by the Indians as fortifications, before white men had come among them. " After men had been made," said he, " they scattered themselves over the surface of the earth, and lost all knowledge of each other. When they afterwards met, it was with fear and caution ; they were engaged in wars, during which they erected these works, which served for defence, until treaties and alliances were made between them." He had always heard this origin ascribed to them, and had known three of them which are supposed to have been made by his nation. One is at the fork of the Kankakee and the Des Plaines rivers, a second on the Ohio, which, from his de iption, was supposed I 4 ^^i ! ''■ I V .•^ , , ■■ 1 ' ;i * i ,. ,'!. Ir* 12() KXI'KniTlON TO TIIK i! .1 : bent tlic mouth of the Muskingum ; he visited it, but couhl not describe the spot very accurately ; and a third, which tie had also seen, he states to be on the head waters of the St. Joseph of Lake Mieiugan. This latter is about forty miles north-west of Fort Wayne, and five or six miles distant from an Indian village called Mangokwa, on u small stream which empties itself into the St. Joseph ; it is a round hill about as large as Fort Wayne. Major Long, who saw those on the St. Joseph and at the mouth of the Kankakee, on a former visit to this country, considers them as natural, and not artificial elevations. One of the Miami chiefs, whom the traders have named Legros, once told fiaron that he had heard that his father had fought with liis tribe in one of the forts at Piqua ; that the fort had been erected by the Indians against the French, and that his father had been killed during one of the as- saults made upon it by the French. The chieftainship is hereditary among the Potawato- mis. If a chief should be destitute of male heirs, sons or nephews, he assembles the warriors of his tribe, and appoints one of them as his successor. Should he die without leaving any male heir, and without having adopted any, then the warriors convene and appoint one of their numbei to succeed to the vacant dignity ; "for a nation cannot exist," says Metea, "without a leader." In their councils no regular debate takes place. The first man who is nominated as chief, generally unites all votes ; it is evident that much must depend upon the influence of him who nominates a candidate. It is, however, usual to ascertain the wish of the people beforehand, and for this reason they are always consulted. 4 i ll , ■ !|. SOUn< K OF ST. PKTKll A iUVKfl. 121 In like manner, if a man be (iesirous of leading a war* party, lie mentions it to others, secures their assistance, and then publicly announces his intention in the village, when such as please follow him. Previous to his de- parture, he performs his religious ceremonies, and pre- pares what is termed his " medicine" or spell, by which he hopes to insure success. If the chief of the village be opposed to the scheme, he undertakes to prevent it, by influencing their superstitious fears. To this eflfect he counteracts, as they suppose, the spells prepared by the warrior, by walking round him in a circle, and then resuming his place. This they so firmly believe to vitiate the medicine, that it immediately puts a stop to the expedition. The power of the chief appears to rest exclusively upon his personal influence. He can use no coercive measures to obtain what he wishes, or prevent what he dislikes. Although the Indians have notions of right and wrong, they have no means of rewarding the former and redressing the latter ; the chief cannot punish a man for any offence whatsoever. If the crime committed be flagrant, the party that deems himself injured may seek for redress in a forcible manner, but there is no mode of obtaining it by fair and legal means. In some cases, h owever, a breach of faith may be pu- nished ; if, for instance, a chief wishes to undertake a military operation, he convenes his warriors, and states his views ; should they agree to it, they declare their assent by presenting him with a string of wampum, which is kept as an evidence of their acquiescence. Should any one of those who have agreed to go afterwards break his promise, he is liable to be punished by forfeiture of part of his property, or by expulsion from the village. A string of wampum is sometimes sent from one iii ii j'i:rf,(fi I ,:; , ■> l&.x if 122 EXPEDITION TO THIS k village to another, with a piece of tobacco attached to it as a proof of the faith of the messenger. It has often been stated, that the Indians in no instance whatever punished their children. This is not correct as a general rule. Mr. Colhoun was informed, that the Potawatomis sometimes enjoin upon their children, as a punishment, the use of the charcoal and its accompanying fast. He also observes, that the circumstance of chastisement being inflicted by some Indians, is confirmed by Joutel's statement, that the Illinois and Cadoquias punished their children by throwing water in their faces; and by Jones's observations, that the Shawanesc had the same prac- tice, and likewise threw them into brooks.* The power of the chief is exercised only so long as he behaves himself in a manner agreeable to the wishes of his warriors, for though the dignity be an hereditary one, it is not uncom- mon for them to depose their chiefs. The principal prerogative of the chief is to conduct all military opera- tions. When once war is declared, he cannot conclude peace without the consent of his warriors. The duty of dividing the annuity paid to them by the United States' Government, likewise devolves upon the chief. Formerly the partition was made by him in the manner that he thought best, but some cases of malversation have led to a different method. The money is paid to the principal chief of the nation; who calls his people round him, places them in a circle, and then throws a dollar to each all round, continuing this operation until the whole of the money is disposed of. In this * Vide " Journal Historiquc du dernier Voyage de M. de la Salle, par Joutol." Paris, 1711, p. 283 and 312, and "Journal of two visits to some nations of Indians west of Ohio river, in 1772 and 1773, by the Rev. D. Jones." SOURCE OV ST. PKTEr's RIVER. 123 division the father of a family receives an equal share fur every individual in his household, whether male or female, child or adult. The annuities paid to the Miamis amount to eighteen thousand dollars. The last census, taken a few years since, made their numbers eleven hundred and seventy-two, of whom three hundred were warriors. An accurate amount of the Potawatomi population could not be obtained here ; it has been variously slated ; we heard it rated at ten thousand, which is ])robabIy far beyond the true number. Tho.se who receive their annuities at Fort Wayne, are not numerous, and the census of Indians in the state of Illinois does not admit of more than twelve hundred Potawatomis. The payment of their an- nuities on the United States' territory is very much to be regretted ; they ought to be paid to them on the Indian reservations, where, by a humane law, no spirituous liquors can be sold. If some means were taken of hold> ing a sort of fair for cattle and implements of agricul- ture, at the time that the annuity is paid, they might, perhaps, be induced to apply to the purchase of useful objects the money which is at present wasted in pro- curing spirits. Under the present system, the moment an Indian receives his annuity, he immediately converts it into whiskey ; the deplorable effects of which upon their system are too well known to require that we should dwell upon them ; but we may be permitted to add the testimony of what came under our own inspec- tion to the great mass of information which has already transpired on this subject. During the three days that we stayed at Fort Wayne, we saw two Indians tomahawked. The first case happened the night of our arrival ; tliis man was very severely cut in the head by soniouuknown person. Itwub buppoticdthutit was byoue m ^:r ':! t ]{ ■'■". I 1 ■ 1 j i . ,1 1 '! 121 KXPKDITION TO THE of the French engagSs. At the time this occurred, they were all concerp?d in a drunken frolic. The next day, on visiting the fort, we rtiet at the gate a few Indians, one of whom was in a state of intoxication ; and we were informed by a boy, that he had threatened to shoot his wife. A few moments after, while we were engaged in conversation with the Indian Agent, word was brought to him, that the Indian had drawn his knife and severely wounded her in the forehead. It appeared the only provocation she had given him was the attempting to draw him away from the town, and induce him to return to his village. In both these cases the loss of blood was very considerable, and such that it was believed none but Indians could have survived it ; but they are so inured to pain and privations of every kind, that it can- not be doubted that they recover from wounds which, to other men, would prove fatal. The excellent surgical assistance which they receive in all cases of wounds and bruises, may also be considered as one of the causes which tend to restore them to health. These assaults are, however, so common here, that no one appears surprised at them ; they are considered as an every-day occurrence. Generally, an Indian will, after he has re- covered from his drunken frolic, express great regret for the fatal effects which have attended it. This is peculiarly the case where he is at a distance from the white population, and where intoxication has not be- come with him an habitual or daily vice ; otherwise the frequent repetition of these bloody frays renders him callous to their consequences. As an instance, wo were told, that some time since, when the Baptist Mis- sionary Society were allowed to occupy Fort Wayne as one of their stations, an Indian brought to the fort the corpse of his broliier, and asked the Rev. Mr. M'Coy, '' i. SOUKCK OF J>T. PKTUR S RIVEK. 125 \vho superintended the establishment, to provide for the funeral. On inquiry, Mr. M'Coy found that the deceased had been murdered, a short time before, by the very Indian who had brought him in. When questioned us to the cause of his brother's death, the murderer care- lessly raised the cloathing from the breast of the de- ceased, and exhibited five or six wounds which he had inflicted with a knife, nor could any emotion of com- punction be observed in his unyielding countenance. These evils may all be traced to the unfortunate circum- stance, that the prohibition to sell spirituous liquors to the Indians extends only to their territory. If con- gress were to include in this prohibition all lands be- longing to the United States, the evil could be partly, if not wholly remedied. The inducement to smuggle liquor and sell it clandestinely might be sufficiently great to prevent the mischief from bein-j completely removed, but it would certainly render it rare. Perhaps, also, if the agents were required to pay them their an- nuities in the Indian reservation, and at a time when an opportunity would be given them of laying out their money in the purchase of cattle, implements of agricul- ture, and other useful or innocent articles, while the introduction of spirituous liquors would be closely guarded against, the great evil of intoxication would be rendered still more rare. Whatever measures congress may choose to adopt to civilize the Indians, it is not difficult to foresee that tney will ever prove unsuccessful unless a check be immediately put to the sale of ardent liquors among them. The law that prohibits the sale of it within their territory having proved in- sufficient, a more general system of restriction musk be adopted. C ' lir:. N'' I i: a '* 126 KXPEDITION TO THE Experience has likewise proved, that the term sale was not sufficiently comprehensive. The giving of spirits ought to be subjected to the same regulation ; for it has been observed on the Missouri, as well as on the Missis- sippi, and probably every where throughout the Indian counti'y, that, if prohibited from selling it, the traders will give it to the Indians as an inducement to trade with them, taking care that the price of the liquor be in- cluded in that of the tobacco or other articles sold tu them at the time. All Indians concur in considering intoxication as improper, and as the source of every evil. Among crimes, those that are held to be most atrocious, are murder, theft, and the violation of the advice and direc- tions of their parents. Many, however, are said to be ^* foolish," and not sensible of crime^ Rape is consi- dered as visited by the anger of the Great Spirit, and is never practised but upon females in a state of intoxica- tion. In the treatment of their wives, they are often severe and brutal; if they should prove lazy, or be deemed so by their unrelenting husbands, or if careless of their children, they are not unfrequently beaten with clubs. Among women no crime is considered so flagrant as infi- delity to their husbands ; this is punished with blows, and sometimes with cutting off the nose, or other mutilations. Seldom do the Potawatomis punish it with death, and it is very rare that they vent their resentment against the paramour. The barbarous punishment noticed by Mr. Say, in the account of the manners of the Otos, Omaw- haws, and other Missouri Indians, which he described under the name of the Round in the Prairie {tour de la prairie of the Canadians), is not known among the Po- tnwatomis. SOURCE OF ST. PETEU S RIVER. 127 The Indians are liable to more distempers than might at first be expected from tlieir mode of living. Croup is one of the most common diseases; in some seasons, most of their cases are fatal, while in others all the pa- tients recover. No medicine is applied in this disease, except the maple sap, or sugar dissolved in hot water. Adults find relief from vomiting. Sore throat appears, also, to be one of their most frequent complaints, espe- cially in the morning ; but it soon passes off. They are often bitten by rattlesnakes ; the wound is cured among the Potawatomis by poultices of the Seneca snake-root, draughts of violet tea, and Eupatorium per/oliatum : they have other remedies, which they keep secret. The venom of the snake is considered greater at some pe- riods of the moon than at others ; in the month of Au- gust it is most so. These Indians entertain a high degree of veneration for the rattlesnake, not that they consider it in the light of a spirit, as has frequently but incorrectly been asserted, but because they are grateful to it for the timely warning which it has often given them of the ap- proach of an enemy. They therefore seldom kill it, un- less when a young man fancies that he requires a rattle, in which case he will have no hesitation in killing a snake ; which act he, however, always accompanies by certain forms. He introduces it by many apologies to the animal, informing it that he wants the rattle as an ornament for his person, and by no means to make fun of it, and in testimony of his amity to the species, leaves a piece of tobacco near the carcass. The fang of the snake is held to be a charm against rheumatism and other internal pains ; the mode of applying it consists in scratching the affected part with it until it bleeds. In their rude midwifery, they use the rattle to assist in ■: If! Kf'" If Fi'l!:,- ''i:'^^ lei:: ;■':■'! 4 i:1 ''if ■ ■ 1 i IK 11 128 KXPKDITION TO THK .1 I parturition ; it is then administered internally; it is not, however, used as an enimenagogue. Leprosy is known among them, and has been observed under some of its most horrible features. In a case, known to Dr. Hall, the patient required some one to be constantly scraping his body and limbs with a knife. A double handful of furfuraceous matter was daily discharged; he died in the course of six months ; his feet had turned as black as gunpowder. Fevers are common among the Potawatomis, and are either bilious, intermittent^ remittent, or continued ; they afflict most those who follow the game to the inte- rior of the country ; while those who reside along the shores of the lake enjoy much better health. The In- dians observe that the easterly winds are the most whole- some^ the southerly produce dullness and laziness, the north wind is too cold, and that from the west is very uncomfortable. Haepatitis is not common; when it occurs, it is relieved by repeated vomiting until the bile is completely evacuated ; if the bile be not discharged, the white of the eye turns yellow, and continues so until death ensues. Hydrocephalus and dropsy are, it seems, unknown to them. Small-pox is frequent, but is always introduced by white men ; it does, not, however, com- mit any great depredation. At one time it raged among them, and proved disastrous and incurable. Its evil ef- fects were suspended by the introduction of the practice of inoculation and vaccination, which Little Turtle made known to them. Having never known the small-pox to be violent but once, they have not entertained that opi- nion of its return at periodical times, which is said to be held by other nations. Dr. Hall's offer to vaccinate them was accepted by many, and declined by others. SOURCE OF 8T. PKTER's RIVER. 129 Metca toUl ns that vaccination bad been abamloned only for want of the virus ; b^ expressed a great wisb to ob- tain some, and said if he bad it, be would use bis influ- ence to disseminate it. Syphilis was, according to Metea, known to the In- dians in its mildest form prior to the arrival of white men among them. It is considered as having increased in virulence and frequency, since the promiscuous inter- course of white men and squaws which is not inter- rupted, according to the uniform practice of Indians, (luring the period of the catamenia. When the disease is in its mild state, they cure it very readily by timely application to their medicine men; the principal remedies are decoctions of the red root and the prairie willow root, as also of sassafras. In such cases they drink very plentifully. These remedies are not applied to the dis- ease in its worst forms : we heard that they bad re- medies, which, even in these cases, were considered as certain, but of which we could not ascertain the nature. In all such diseases, they apply to their regular doctors, who are said to charge very extravagant fees. These men combine the use of spells with that of herbs, and are held in very great esteem. Their materia medica consists of astringents, cathartics, emetics, mucilages, and sudoriflcs. Among the emetics most in use, we heard of pills made from the product of the evaporation of a decoction of the horsc-chesnut boiled down to a viscous state. One of their sudorifics is said to consist in the application of a poultice of maize, boiled as for food, which is spread over the body of the sick person, wh6 first extended on a board or skin. The maize employed in this application is afterwards used as food. The berry of the prickly ash is used by them as a warming medi« VOL. I. K i' :' . ■\1( \i , ! i ■ '-., i- "S' I'M It E^' \r ISO KXPEDITION TO THE cine for inward complaints. Tliey have no vesicatories but fire and hot water, wbicb are applied for sore joints and rheumatism. Phlebotomy is performed with a small knife or with a thin lamina of flint attached to a stick in tlie manner of a fleam, and stuck into the flesh in the same way. For a pain in the head they bleed in the bend of the arm, or above it ; for one in the side below the bend ; and if the pain be in the back they bleed on the right or left ankle, according as it inclines to the right or left side. Bleeding is never resorted to in fevers. - , •. i Calculous symptoms are accurately described, but the disease and its causes are unknown to them. The process of parturition is generally easy, the woman being on her knees ; it is sometimes assisted by bending the body over a cord, the ends of which are attached to the top of the cabin ; the funis is regularly tied and cut. Ths openition of turning is unknown ; no manual assistance is resorted to, even in cases of wrong pre- sentation ; and many instances have occurred in which the foetus became putrid before it was expelled. They have professed midwives, who are paid for their at- tendance ; these are principally old women. Men are never allowed to assist at the delivery of a woman. A general opinion has prevailed that all Indian women bathed in cold water immediately after parturition. This is however extremely incorrect; the practice exists among the Sioux or Dacocas, and among many other nations, but we very much question whether any nation of Algonquin origin practises it. The Potawa- tomi women are very careful not to expose themselves to cold after child-birth, and do not bathe for ten days unless the weather be very warm. The placenta not 'f <, SOURCE OF ST. PKTBR S RIVKK. 131 Ix^iiig always expelled naturally, they have recourse to a strong medicinal draught ; it is stated, that if it should remain for several days, the husband takes his wife upon his shoulders, and carries her about for some time; the motion is said to assist in its expulsion. Mothers always nurse their children, and continue to suckle them for a great length of time, in some in- stances for three, four, or more years, if no subsequent pregnancy occur j in one case a mother was observed suckling a child twelve years of age. Wlicn the mo- therms milk fails, the child is fed with an extract of sweet maize in boiling water, and medicines arc ad- ministered to renew the secretion. Metea had never heard of a total failure of a woman's milk while nursing her child : during a temporary interruption of it they sometimes commit children to the care of a friehd who acts as nurse ; but this practice is disapproved of. Parturition is seldom fatal : when it proves so, it is attributed to ignorance or carelessness on the part of the midwife ; in women of indolent habits it is said to be painful, in the active it is much less laborious. — Sterility is very common, but does not expose M'omen to contempt, though it is frequently the cause of their being cast oflF by their husbands. The period of gesta- tion varies from eight to nine months, and is seldom attended with sickness or nausea. Menstruation com- monly commences at the age of fourteen, and continues until fifty, and in some cases sixty years ; it is not uncommon to see a woman with grey hair, whose cntamenia has not ceased. Many women become dis- abled from child-bearing by accidents during their first gestation, although still very young. Menstruation is often irregular with them ; when too abundant, they K 2 'Ji' b I W I 'I ■I 'I I 132 KXI'EDITION TO THE have remedies which arc represented as very successful, but which Metea declined indicating, as it was not usual fur them to talk of these things except when called upon professionally, and with a fee. In a sup- pression of the menses they seldom apply any remedy ; as they arc apprehensive that this might be productive of sterility, which is by all Indian women considered as the greatest curse that can be entailed upon them. During the period of the catamenia, women are not allowed to associate with the rest of the nation ; they are completely laid aside, and are not permitted to touch any article of furniture or food which the men have oc- casion to use. If the Indians be stationary at the time, the women are placed outside of the camp ; if on a march, they are not allowed to follow the trail, but must take a different path and keep at a distance from the main body. This practice, which appears to pre- vail wherever man retains his primitive simplicity and purity of manners, has been very unphilosophically con- sidered by Adair and other theoretic writers as a strong confirmation of the descent of the aborigines of America from the ten lust tribes of Israel. But as Charlevoix observes, " one must have good eyes, or rather a very lively imagination, to perceive in them all that some travellers have pretended to discover."* The late Mr. Samuel Prince, of Boston, who resided three or four years in Owhyhee, assured Mr. Colhoun that the natives of that island are equally scrupulous with regard to the catamenia, and that during its continuance the women are secluded in houses without the villages. This custom of Owhyhee has not, we think, been no- ticed by any traveller that we have met with. * Charlevoix's Journal Historique, Letter 23d. ■f SOORCK OK ST. I'KTKft S RIVKU. 133 It lias been often asserted that it was a common practice with Indian women to destroy tlie fojtus. Tliis may be correct as respects certain nations, but it ouglit by no means to be considered as applicable to all ; and we know it to be incorrect as respects tlic Potawato- mis. All travellers concur in representing tlieni as very proud of the number of their children. Where the mild and humane provisions of the Christian faith do not prevail, children form almost the only link which binds man to woman for life. It is the only obstacle to that constant repudiation of wives which occurred previously to the Christian dispensation ; hence, inde- pendently of the moral turpitude of the deed, it would be the height of impolicy in a woman to impair the strongest claim which she has upon her husband's affections ; but besides these considerations, the Potawatomi woman is prevented from attempting to destroy the foetus, from the fear which she entertains that abortion would be followed by the death of the parent. Askabunkese, one of the most celebrated physicians among the Potawatoniis, being asked whether chlorosis was known to them, said that he did not know it ; the M'omen were too modest to inform the men, and would knock him down with a stick if he were to inquire of them. Among the Potawatomis, the practice of medicine is considered quite distinct from that of jugglery. Both are in great repute, but it appears that there is no in- terference. The man of medicine has, it is true, re- course to spells and incantations to add to the virtue of the plants which he uses ; but this is totally unconnect- ed with the avocations of the sorcerer and juggler, whose object is amusement, and who are resorted to K 3 ■ ■ ' 'V\ M '.. II I(" i 134 KXPKDITION TO TIIK fur tliu recovery of lost ni'ticles, ur to answer quciitiuii^ about persons and things at a dbtanee, for which they hometiiues are paid by the more ignorant ; but they are soon detected in their clumsy arts. The sorcerers are treated with much respect, being held in great awe. They generally perform their tricks in the twilight, or during the night. Prophets formerly existed in great number, and were much revered ; but the failure which attended the predictions made by the great prophet of the Shawanese, the brother of Tecumseh, has opened their eyes on this subject and satisfied them that he, us well perhaps as the others who had enjoyed reputation among them, was merely a tool in the hands of a de- signing chief, to deceive the Indians into measures which he wished to effect. The Potawatomis have a number of war songs, formed for the most part of one or two ideas, expressed in short and forcible sentences, which they repeat over and over, in a low humming kind of tune, which to our ears ap- peared very monotonous ; they have no love songs, the business of singing being always connected with warlike avocations. We took down the words of one of their songs as follows :— Y&-W& kw&-td-ina-noi ine-chc-m6-k&-min. If^kat do I hear behind me ? the Anuricatis nh-tlhti'wt-ni-kk pe-t^-k&-w2i, are entering our village, thvimre yourselves to fi^ht. KLni-ral-til-s^ we-tA-sl nc-p6-w^n. We must die. Victory or death. The translation of two others is annexed with a view to give an idea of the purport of their songs. ^' When I march against mine enemies, the earth trembles under my feet ;" this is sung with considerable force by a wiu'- li SOURCE OP ST. PKTKR S RIVKd. 135 rior } the others joining i j chorus, to the words ya, wn, often repeated, and concUfded witli a general whoop. Another, which is very bl ort, consists merely in the repetition of the words, " The head of the enemy is cut off, and falls at my feet i" with the exclamation ha- ha-ha, frequently repeated. Singing is always attended by the dance, and if pos- sible, by intoxication, in which case it becomes incohe- rent and unintelligible. The only musical instruments which they use are the drum, rattle, and a kind of flageo- let. They have various kinds of dances known by the name of the war dance, medicine dance, Manito, or spirit dance, wabauo, metawee, mewicine, and beggar's dance. Their games are numerous and diversified ; they resem- ble many of those known to civilized meir; such as gymnastic exercise, battledore, pitching the bar, ba)l,&c. tennis and cup-ball, for which they use the spur of the deer with a string attached to it. They are fond of games of chance, particularly cards, which they have, received from traders, &c. The Potawatomis are for the most part well propor- tioned, about five feet eightjnches in height, possessed of much muscular strength in the arm, but rather weak in the back, with a strong neck, and endowed with consi- derable agility. Their voice is feeble and low, but when excited very shrill ; their teeth are sound and clean, but not remarkable for regularity. In persons of feeble ha- bits, or of a scrophulous tendency, the teeth are found to decay much faster than in others. Deniicion is said to be a painful process among Indian children, a circum- stance which we had not expected. Their complexion h very much darkened by exposure to the sun and wind, while those parts which are kept covered, arc observed K 4 h la j i I i 136 KXPKDITION TO THB to retain their native brightness. Children are red when new-born j after a few years they assume the yel- low colour. Their sight is quick and penetrating, but blindness is frequent from the intense application of the eye in still hunting, and from exposure to the alternate, and, in some cases, united action of the sun and snow ', doubtless, also, on account of the constant smoke in their huts. Their hearing is usually good when young ; but is often affected in old age, probably by the effect of cold, or the usually disordered state of their stomach. Their olfactory nerves are said to be inferior in acute- ncss to those of the white man ; which is singular, consi* dering the extent of the sense of smelling among wild animals. We should have believed that man in his primitive state would be possessed of a more acute sense of smelling than when civilized ; the facts stated on this subject of the Caraibs being able to trace men through the woods by the scent, like hounds, and of their distin- guishing '' the track of an Englishman, or a negro, from that of a Frenchman or a Spaniard, by the sense of smelling," if true, would be a strong confirmation of this doctrine.^ It is said that the Arabs cannot bear the smell of a city. Their endurance of cold is great. Their powers of digestion are stronp,', but exposed to severe trials. The quantity of food which an Indian will take when he has it in abundance, is surprising, and if considered in con- nexion with what is related by Captain Parry of the ap_ petite of the Esquimaux, would lead us to believe that this is not peculiar to any nation of Indians, but that it belongs to man in general in his wild state. We find that it extends also to the half-breeds who live among * Archaeologia Americana, vol. I. p. 426. 'iii;''^ SOURCB OP ST. PBTBR » RIVER. 137 tliem. The observations made at a later period of the expedition, upon the quantity of buffalo meat consumed by every man of the party, confirm this. The usual allow- ance of fresh buffalo meat to the guides and boatmen of the fur trading companies is not less than eight pounds per day ; and it is probable, that during the short time the party were among the buffalo, tlie ration of each of the gentlemen averaged about four pounds. This is not to be attributed to any want of nutr* " '^e power in the flesh of the buffalo, but to the great tuJ ity that attends the digestion of this food, and to the irregular habits which even the most civilized men readily acquire as soon as they find themselves beyond the pale of society. Certain it is, that if well provided with food, and not en* gaged in hunting, the Potawatomi will eat from ten to twenty times a day. Frequent exposure to privation of food has, however, accustomed him to endure the want of it with more fortitude, and perhaps with less real inconvenience, than the white man. There is also proba- bly a moral support which the red man receives from the recollection, that, however frequent, and however long have been the intervals during which he was deprived of all subsistence, they have always terminated in time to secure him from absolute famine ; he, therefore, always retains the hope of being soon restored to abundance. The white man, less accustomed to these privations, considers himself as lost the very first time that he misses his usual allowance, and is thus deprived of the great ac- cession of physical strength which proceeds from moral courage. Notwithstanding their great fortitude, the men of this nation arc sometimes liable to unaccountable depression of spirits, which seldom, however, leads them to commit suicide ; we heard of two instances only, one I ' 138 EXPEDITION TO THE of which was in a (it of intoxication, and the other to get rid of a scolding wife. This account of the Potawatomis might have been lengthened out by adding many circumstances whicli were related to us concerning tlieir manners and opi- nions ; but having given the most important, we shall refrain from noticing the remainder, except in a few in- stances, when treating of other Indian tribes ; in whicii case tliey may assist in a comparison between the ditfe- reut nations. SOURJ JK OF ST. PKTKU ^ lUVKU. 139 ic otiicr to CHAPTER IV. Carei/ mission-house. Lake Michigan. Chicago. THE only person worthy of note, whom the party met at Fort Wayne, besides those already alluded to, was Captain Riley, the same gentleman who has in- terested the world by an account of his sufferings in Africa. He has formed a settlement on St. Mary's river, fourteen miles above Fort Wayne, which he has called Willshire, in honour of the British consul who redeemed him from captivity. The spot which he has selected is said to be the only one that affords a water- power within fifty miles of Fort Wayne j from which circumstance it will probably increase in importance. The party made arrangements to cross the wilderness, of upwards of two hundred miles, which separates this place from Chicago; they fortunately met here the express sent from the latter place for letters, and de« tained him as a guide. His name was Bemis, and we have great pleasure in stating, that of all the Unite«l States' soldiers who, at \ irious times, accompanied the expedition in the capacity of escort or guide, none be- haved himself so much to their satisfaction as this man. On the 29th of May, the party left Fort Wayne ; the cavalcade consisted of seven persons, including the soldier, and a black servant, called Andrew Allison: there were in addition two horses loaded with provisions. The first day the party travelled but twenty miles, and 1 t Y.I i !*ii| : ill ';|i' :i it ■■- - -ti' ,|J, " "■ ii' .1 140 EXPEDITION TO TIIK u I encamped on tlic bank of a small stream known by the name of Blue- grass ; this is the last of the tributaries tu the Mississippi which are met with in Indiana; all the streams which we crossed during the ensuing five or six days empty their waters into Lake Michigan. The country to the west of Fort Wayne is much more promis- ing than that which lies east of it. Though wet, and in some places swampy, it is much less so tlian that through which we had previously travelled. The soil is thin, but of good quality ; prairies are occasionally met with. The forests consist of white oak, shellbark, aspen, &c. The weather, which was cloudy in the morning and showery in the afternoon, cleared up towards sunset, abd our first night's exposure was attended with no evil consequences. The meadow on which we halted, was covered with a fine short grass, which afforded us a soft couch, while it secured to our horses plentiful and palatable food. The streams we crossed this day were inconsiderable ; the first, known by the name of Eel river, is one of the head branches of the Wabash : it was considerably swollen at that time ; we forded it with some difiiculty, and met on the west bank a party of traders, who had been encamped there some time with a large quantity of furs, which they durst not trust across the stream in its present state of elevation. They were nearly destitute of provisions, and we supplied them with one day's rations. A ride of thirty miles took us the next day to a fine river called the Elkheart, which it had been our intention to ford before night. Upon reaching its banks we found it so much swollen as to preclude the possibility of crossing it, unless a raft could be made ; but as this would have detained us too long, we preferred attempting to make our way ilown the SOURCE OF ST. PRTKR « RIVRR. 141 left bank of the stream. Wc were led to take this course from the circumstanee, that the usual path crosses back to the left or southern bank, about twenty miles below the first crossing'. The country tra- velled over this day, consisted of low flat ridges, the summits of which presented extensive levels interspersed with many small lakes and lagoons. These ridges are not more than ten or fifteen feet in height, their sides are so steep as to make them sometimes difficult of ascent for horses. The country is almost destitute uf timber, until within a few miles of the Elkheart, Avhen we entered the river bottom, in which we found a noble forest of oak, black and white walnut, wild cherry, beech, poplar, ash, bass or linden, white and sugar maple, &c. the soil upon which it grows appearing to be of the very best quality, but somewhat wet. Among the plants observed upon the prairie laud, Mr. Say noticed a lupin with blue flovvers, in full bloom and in great abundance ; a fine cypripedium, and the wild flax, which grew in great j)lenty. Some of the small lakes or ponds are surrounded exclu: sui;r<:k ok st. pktkk i> hivkk. 147 to pas.4, but we experienced great pleasure in nscer> taiiiing that we imd again fallen into the usual track from Wayne to Chicago. We observed here, for the tirst time, the equisetum growing in abundance. In the afternoon we travelled with ease and comfort over a prairie country interspersed with occasional spots of woodland. One of these prairies which was about five miles wide and one and a half long, was as level as possible, and as far as the eye coiUd observe, it resembled a smooth unruffled t^heel of water. The scene was enlivened, and the solitude interrupted by the quick flight of the deer which we disturbed while feeding, and which darted across our path vvith a rapidity that baffles description. About su iset we arrived at a romantic stream called Devil's river, and here wc en- camped upon as beautiful a spot as ^he most fa.'itidious could have wished for ; we pitched our tent for the first time, and while partaking of a comfortable meal, in the open air, spent a more pleasant evening than perhaps wc coidd ever have expected to enjoy in such a solitude. There was a still sublimity in the scene, which we have in vain looked for on many un occasion. The dreariness of our last encampiiient contrasted so strongly with the calmness of the present, that it power- fully reminded us of that constant mutability in the situation of man, which perhaps finds its parallel only in the unceasing changes which his ideas and his feel- ings undergo. The next day we proceeded along the southern bank of the Elkheart, and observed its junction with the St. Joseph. This last mentioned stream is known by the appellation of St. Joseph o( Lake Michigan ^ in contra- distinction to the river of the same name which empties K 2 I ;■ \ f f '^ n tv )M W^ * r 1^ 'J ' if it' • 1 I * UH KXIMunioN Id THE itself into Lake l-^rie, and wlilcli wo sau' at Fort Wayne. The St. Joseph of Michigan is a fine stream, deeply in< cased ; it is about one hundred yards wide, and beint^ at that time very full, was both deep and rapid ; it was the finest stream we had met with since we left the Muskin- gum, or [lerhaps the Ohio. A beautiful prairie with a fine rich soil, offered to the party an easy mode of tra- velling, and the occasional glimpser. which they caught of the St. Joseph and its adjoining forests, afforded them a series of varied and ever beautiful prospects, which were rendered more picturesque by the ruins of Straw- berry, Rum, and St. Joseph's villages, formerly the resi- dence of Indians, or of the first French settlers. It was curious to trace the difference in the remains of the ha- bitations of the red and white man in the midst of this distant solitude. While the untenanted cabin of the In- dian presented in its neighbourhood but the remains of an old cornfield overgrown with weeds; the rude hut of the Frenchman was surrounded with vines, and with the remains of his former gardening exertions. The as- paragus, the pea-vine, and the woodbine, still grow about it, as though in defiance of the revolutions which itave dispersed those who planted them here. The very names of the villages mark the difference between their former tenants ; those of the Indians were designated by the name of the fruit which grew abundantly on the spot, or of the object which they coveted most : while the French missionary had placed his village imder the patronage of the tutelar saint in whom he reposed his utmost confidence. Near to these we found two traders settled in the vicinity of Imlian lands, or, as is believed by many, upon the reservation itself; where they probably carry on a lucrative trade, if, as we were w soriU K Ml- M-. PKTKU N IIIVIJI. 110 iiit'iniied by uiie of them, uskitijvaliu'd at uiic dollur, wan obtained for Hvc gunflints, which had cust him a cent n piece. This is, however, the least evil ; our objections to this trade would be much lighter, if the Indians were liable to be defraiuled only of their dues ; but great as is this injustice, it bears uoconi|mrison to the evils grow- ing out of the constant temptation of li(pior to which lliey are ex|)Ose SOTRtK OF !«T. PKTKK s HIVKH. 151 uftci' they ^ihull huvu been tuiniliarized with the blessings attendant upon civilization, that they may be induced to turn, with effect, their attention to the ^iublinie principles of that dispensation to which we are indebted tor all those comforts. To attempt to christianize them before they have been civilized, would be to expect of them a inatMrity of reasonini; far beyond that (»f which experi- ence teaches us that they are possessed. In his present state of wildness and ii^norance, it is inipossible for the Indian to apjircciate the vast jlitFerence which exists be- tween his heathen superstitions and the pure morality of the gospel. Could we entertain a doubt of what must strike every reflecting man as true, we need but open the books of the Catholic missionaries, whose zeal first inrluced them to visit the trackless wastes of America, to ascend her as yet unknown rivers, and to risk every hazard and surmount every obstacle, conveying the glad tidings of the gospel, and baptising in the name of the \a)i\\. What say they of their success, they vvere heard with patient attention, for such is the practice of the In- dian, hut what root did their words strike in the minds of their pupils? Father Heimepin, one of the most ce- lebiated of these missionaries, has accounted for their ill success in the true way. " There are," says he, " se- veral obstacles to the conversion of the Indians, but in most cases the chief diflicidty arises from the indifFer- once which they iiianifcst for every thing. If we instruct Ihem in the creation of the world, and in the mysteries of the Christian religion, tliey say that we are right, and they generally appUiud what we tell thom. They would hold it to be a great breach of manners to intinuite the least doubt as to the truth of all that we teach them, but having heard and praised all that we had to say, they 1 4 i; I ill U'l ^ ij 152 I.Xr'KD/TlON TO TIIK pretend that we uuglit to show the same deference Utr the tales which they relate tons; and when we tell them that all they have advanced is false, their reply is, that as they have acquiesced in all that we have stated, it i>. foolish on our part to interrupt them and deny the truth of which they assert," " All that ihou hast taught us," say they, " respecting the belief of thy country is doubt- less true as respects thy people, but it is otherwise with us who belong to a ditferent nation, and who dwell upon lands which are on this side of the great lake." It is this indifterence in all matters of faith, this belief that their doctrines were as good as those of the missionaries, that may be considered as the true source of the failure of all attempts to christianize them. But after their ideas shall have been expanded by a proper acquaintance with the arts of civilized life, then they cannot fail fully to ap- preciate the superiority of our faith over theirs. The plan adopted in the school, purposes to unite a practical with an intellectual education ; the boys are instructed in the English language, in reading, writing, and arithmetic, they are made to attend to the usual oc- cupations of a farm, and to perform every operation connected with it, such as plowing, planting, harrowing, &c.; in these pursuits they appear to take great delight; the system being well regulated, they find time for every thing, not only for study and labour, but also for inno- cent recreation, in which they are encouraged to indulge; and the hours allotted to recreation may perhaps be viewed as productive of results fully as important as those accruing from more serious pursuits. In visiting Inandoned about fifty years ago, but there are a few of the oldest of the nation who still recollect the site of their respective T/i-l)H-iir-l»a. SOUKCU OF ST. PKTKK W HIVKK. 155 huts; they are said frequently to visit the establishment, uiid to trace witli deep feeling a spot which is endeared to tlieni by *' the memory of past joys, pleasing and mournful to the soul." The Carey Mission-house has been very liberally sup- ported by the charitable contributions raised tln'oughout I he western states. The family have a flock of one hundred sheep, collected in Tennessee, Kentucky, and Ohio, and arc daily expectini- two hundred head of cattle from the same states. 'J'hesc contributions, to- gether with the produce of their farm, will, it is thought, prevent them from being exposed to suffer Jis much from scarcity of provisions as they have already done. When we visited them, they were on short allowance, owing to the loss of a load of wheat which had been sent from Fort Wayne in a waggon a short time before we left that place, and which had been cnibarked in pirogues at the upper crossing of the Eikheart ; by the accidental upsetting of the pirogues the whole of the cargo was lost. We Avere told that the family had been deprived of the use of milk, during the whole winter, from the circumstance of their cows feeding upon a kind of wild onion which grows in the prairies. It may be well to state, that notwithstanding the great objection which thelndians generally have to the use of milk, the children in the school have become quite fond of it. In order to give a greater extension to their establishment, they con- template engaging Shane as an interpreter and assistant ; from what we saw of this nuiu while at Fort Wayne, we were not led to form so high an opinion of him as vc had entertained from re()orts received on St. Mary's river. 1" m lii ii Ia(> KXPKDnrON TO Tllh No I'ock uppcars in place near the cxtublisliincnt, and we met with none on onr way from Devil's river, except in one place where we observed, in a ravine, a calcareous formation evidently of the latest date, and whi ch pro- bably still continue!;! to increase — it was filled with vegc- tabics, some of which were unaltered, while others ap* peared to have undergone a partial decomposition. Having engaged an Indian to lead us back from Mr. McCoy's to the Chicago I race, we resumed our Journey on the 3d of June. Our guide's hoary head would have satisfied even Humboldt himself, that Ins assertion " that the hair of Indians never becomes gray," was too gene- ral.* We have met with manv instances, and the cir- cumstance is so natural that we should not have men- tioned it, but for the importance attached to the slighter! observation of a traveller so accurate as Humboldt gene- rally is. After travelling about ten miles through a prairie, we parted from our guide, who considered him- self amply rewarded with about half a pound of gun- powder. Wc then entered upon what is termed, tlie Fourteen Mile Prairie, which, for the first seven miles, presented an extensive plain, uninterrupted by the least elevation, and undiversified by the prospect of a single tree. We had occasion to observe, on a former occasion, thai ^he route which we travelled carried us along the height of land that separates the waters tributary to the Mississippi from those which empty into the lakes ; and wc had an opportunity of seeing this confirmed, in this place, by the fact that a communication between those waters had been elfected, during wet seasons, through the Fourteen Mile Prairie. It appears that a very decpswam|), I'olit. Ksh. (in tlir Kingdom ot New Spain, ( I.oml. IHJ I,) vol. i. p. IJO. ><)i;il< K OV sT. I'KTKH S HlVhU. 157 wiru'ii wc avoulod by uur visit to the missiuii station, c^- tablishe.e a cuiiiieclioii Ix'tucon two streams, one of M-hich empties its waters into the Kankakee, while those of the other rnn to the wSt Joseph. This has afforded, and still eontinues to aflbrd every year, an easy commii- iiication for canoes and small boats. An intercourse has likewise existed, in wet seasons, across tlic prairie, east of tlie trader's establishment which we pas^^edon the pre- ceding^ day. At noon we rested our horses in the vicinity of the remains of an Indian village, named the Grand Quoit, and we observed a few Indian lodges scattered along the edge of the forest which encloses this prairie. On discovering our party on the prairie, the tenants of the lodges immediately rode out of the woods, advanced towards us, and opened a conversation with our guides. Their intercourse with white men, and the consequent departure from their original customs, were observable in the circumstance of their commencing the conversa- tion, and in their minute inquiries respecting our object and intentions in visiting the country. They arc said to experience a great scarcity of food, which we can readily believe from the total absence of any kind of game which we had observed upon the route. An Indian who rode up near us, while we were partaking of our dinner, stopped, and appeared to long after food ; but called for none. We ottered him some, which he very thankfully accepted, and seemed to eat with great voraciousness. Our party was this day overtaken by an express, who brought letters from Wayne, to Major Long ; one of them was from Dr. James, stating that he had been waiting in Pittsburg for the party. From the contents of his letter, we concluded that the hopes, which had been hitherto entertained, of his being able to effect a junction t P 'i 1 ■ m h i n 158 KXPRDITIOM TO THK with US, were vain. These were the last letters received from our friends, until we found some on our return at the Sault dc St. Marie. At about forty-three miles from the Carey station, tlie trail, which we followed, struck the shores of Lake Mi- chigan ; this was a source of great gratification to us; as the last twelve miles of our road had been very dan- gerous, on account of the numerous deep holes formed in it ; to these may he added the many superficial routs that projected from the beech trees, in every direction, and that exposed the horses to frequent stumbling. The forest M'as almost exclusively composed of the finest growth of beech j on some of the higher grounds we found, in great plenty, the partridge or fox-berry, (Gaul- theria procumbens,) with its aromatic red fruit, in a state of perfect maturity ; it was accompanied by the whortle- berry in full blossom. We saw this day the first whitr pine, and in some places this tree was very abundant. We had been following for some time the valley of a small stream, called by the French, 2lwidre du Chemhi, (Trail River,) but on approaching near to its mouth, our path winded lJI«:k OK ST. FKTKH t> HI V Kit. 159 ixlivinity of tl»c lake; the view, towards the north, was l)()iiiiterly winds which prevail during the winter season — the sand is loose and unce- niented. In a few places traces of lignite and peat arr to be met with ; doubtle-^s resulting from the decompo- sition of the partial vegetation whic!i grew upon these hills, and which was successively destroyed and buried under the sand ; perhaps, al ^' Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 '^"^^ r\ 162 KXPKDITION TO THK men observed an Indian hut in the distance, and sug- gested that it might be a dog belonging to the tenant of the hut, which information induced the soldier to desist from shooting; a few moments afterwards an Indian made his appearance on the prairie, and called the ani- mal to him. This Indian was remarkable for the length of his beard, which, contrary to their usual custom, he had allowed to grow to the length of one inch and a half; his dress was indicative of the same slovenly dispo- sition. We were obliged to commit to his charge one of the horses ; this was the only one that had travelled the whole distance from Philadelphia ; but he had become unable to proceed, having been affected for some time past with the distemper ; and, notwithstanding all the care that was taken of him, he had become so faint that, even without any load, we found it impossible to make him keep up with the rest of the horses. The Indian undertook to take car^ of him for a few days, and then lead him to the fort, which promise he faithfully per- formed. In the afternoon of the fifth of June, we reached Fort Dearborn (Chicago), having been engaged eight days in travelling a distance of two hundred and sixteen miles, making an average, of twenty-seven miles per day. Our estimate of the distance exceeds the usual allowance by sixteen miles, on account of the circuitous route which we took to avoid crossing the Elkheart. At Fort Dear- born we stopped for a few days, with a view to examine the country and wjake further preparations for the jour- ney to the Mississippi. In taking a retrospective view of the nature of the country travelled over, we find that from Fort Wayne to twenty miles west of Devil river, it presents as it were SOURCE OF ST. PETRR S RIVER. 163 5 as it were two distinct surfaces. The first, or lower one, is a level moist prairie, covered with luxuriant herbage ; the se- cond, or upper one, is abruptly elevated twenty-five or thirty feet above the prairie land, and consists of a suc- cession of flat ridges, uniform in height, but of unequal breadth, that are frequently disconnected by narrow straits of prairie land ; from this circumstance the lower level presents a continuous surface, while the upper one is broken into distinct ridges insulated in the midst of the prairie. The soil of the ridges is poor and gravelly, covered with a thin growth of shrubby oaks; it appears to have been occasioned by what has been termed an ancient alluvial formation (probably similar to those ex- tensive deposits which are said to constitute the great plains that are observed in South America) ; this forma- tion having been afterwards divil.^ i iH' 1 •''. ■ ! 1 r I'f i , ■1 1 li 166 EXPEDITION TO THR log or bark-liouscs are low, filthy and disgusting, displaying not the least trace of comfort. Chicago is, perhaps, one of the oldest settlements in the Indian country ; its name, derived from the Potawatomi Ian* guage, signifies either a skunk, or wild onion; and each of these significations has been occasionally given for it. A fort is said to have formerly existed there. Mention is made of the place as having been visited in 1671 by Perrot, who found ** Chicagou" to be the re- shlence of a powerful chief of the Miamis. The number of trails centering all at this spot, and their apparent antiquity, indicate that this was probably for a long while the site of a large Indian village. As a place of business, it offers no inducement to the settler ; for the whole annual amount of the trade on the lake did not exceed the cargo of five or six schooners, even at the time when the garrison received its supplies from Mack- inaw. It is not impossible that at some distant day, when the banks of the Illinois shall have been covered with a dense population, and when the low prairies which extend between that river and Fort Wayne, shall have acquired a population proportionate to the produce which they can yield, that Chicago may become one of the points in the direct line of communication between the northern lakes and the Mississippi ; but even the intercourse which will be carried on through this communication, will, we think, at all times be a limited one ; the dangers attending the navigation of the lake, and the scarcity of harbours along the shore, must ever prove a serious obstacle to the increase of the commercial importance of Chicago. The extent of the sand banks which are formed on the eastern and southern shore, by the prevailing north and north- SOURCB UK ST. PKTUR S RIVKR. 167 westerly winds, will likewise prevent any important works from being undertaken tu improve the post of Chicago. The south fork of Chicago river takes its rise, about six miles from the fort, in a swamp which communi- cates also with the De.s Plaines, one of the head branches of the Illinois. Having been informed that this route was frequently travelled by traders, and that it had been used by one of the officers of the garrison, who re- turned with provisions from St. Louis a few days before our arrival at the fort, we determined to ascend the Chicago river in order to observe this interesting divi- sion of waters. We accordingly left the fort on the 7th of June, in a boat, which, after having ascended the river about four miles, we exchanged for a narrow pirogue that drew less water j the stream we were ascending was very narrow, rupid, and crooked, pre- senting a great fall ; it continued so for about three miles, when we reached a sort of swamp designated by the Canadian voyagers under the name of le petit luc. Our course through this swamp, which extended for three miles, was very much impeded by the hi^h grass, weeds, &c. through which our pirogue passed with difficulty. Observing that our progress through the fen was very slow, and the day being considerably advanced, we landed on the north bank, and continued our course along the edge of the swamp for about three miles, until we reached the place where the old portage road meets the current, which was here very distinct towards the south. We were delighted at beholding fur the first time, a feature so interesting in itself, but which we had afterwards an u|)purtunity uf observing fre<(uently on the route, viz. : the division of wuicr.'* M 4 1 ■; . p - ;■ 1 ;'|l ' ' J \ ;i' ■■■ ,■ J:;| 1 Ai^Ji ■ 1 i r' :;!f 168 EXPEDITION TO THK Starting' from the same source, and running in two different directions, so as to become the feeders of streams that discharge themselves into the ocean at immense distances apart. Although *■ the time we visited it, there was scarcely water enough to permit our pirogue to pass, we could not doubt, that in the spring of the year the route must be a very eligible one. Lieut. Hopson, who accompanied us to the Des Plaines, told us that he had travelled it with ease, in a boat loaded with lead and flour. The distance from the fort to the intersection of the Portage road and Des Plaines, is supposed to be about twelve or thirteen miles ; the elevation of the feeding lake above Chicago river was estimated at five or six feet ; and, it is probable, that the descent to the Des Plaines is less considerable. The Portage road is about eleven miles long ; the usual distance travelled by laud seldom however exceeds from four to nine miles ; in very dry seasons it has been said to amount to thirty miles^ as the portage then extends to Mount Juliet, near the confluence of the Kankakee. When we consider the facts above stated, we are irre- sistibly led to the conclusion, that an elevation of the lakes of a few feet (not exceeding ten or twelve), above their present level, would cause them to discharge their waters, partly at least, into the Gulf of Mexico ; that such a discharge has at one time existed, every one conversant with the nature of the country must admit ; and it is equally apparent that an expenditure, trifling in comparison to the importance of the object, would again render Lake Michigan a tributary of the Mexican gulf. Impressed with the importance of this object, the legis- lature of Illinois has already caused some observationsi SOURCE OF ST. PBTKR S RIVUR. 169 to be made upon the possibility of establishing this com- munication; the commissioners appointed to that effect, visited Chicago after we left it, and we know not what results they obtained, as their report has not reached us ; but we have been informed that they had con- sidered the elevation of the petit lac above Chicago to be somewhat greater than we had estimated it. It is the opinion of those best acquainted with the nature of the country, that the easiest communication would be between the Little Calamick and some point of the Des Plaines, probably below the Portage road; between these two points there is, in wet seasons, we understand, a water communication of ten or twelve miles. Of the practicability of the work, and of the sufficiency of a supply of water no doubt can exist. The only difficulty will, we apprehend, be in keeping the communication open after it is once made, as the soil is swampy, and probably will require particular care to oppose the return of the soft mud into the excavations. In the immediate vicinity of Chicago, a secondary limestone is found, disposed in horizontal strata; it con- tains many organic remains. This limestone appears to us to be very similar in its geological as well as mineralo- gical aspect, to that observed above the coal formation on the Miami ; but no superposition being visible, it is impossible for us to determine at present its relative age; we, however, incline to the opinion, that it is one of the late secondary limestones. We have to regret that the specimens which were obtained of the same have been lost, and that we are deprived of the opportunity of com- paring them with those collected in other parts of our route. This limestone, which lies exposed to view in 1 . M 1 ■ t ■■'.'1 , ! i; ! f i '1'' ' ^^"!' ' . il ,:^jli 1 f , w 1 Ir jf:ii fl •! 170 KXFKDITION TO I'ilK some places, is fur the most part covered with ait alhi- vial deposit consisting of the detritus of primitive rocks. Upon the shore of Lake Michigan, specimens of native copper have likewise been occasionally picked up. We have in our possession, owing to the liberality of Dr. Hall, a specimen w^hich is part of a mass, weighing two pounds, found by the express from Chicago toGreenbay; it was picked up on the lake shore, about five miles south of the Milwacke, a stream which empties into the lake, about eighty-five miles north of Chicago ; the spot at which it was found is known by the name of the Soapbauks, and is stated by Mr. Schoolcraft to consist of a bed of white clay ; Dr. Hall was led to visit the spot in hopes of finding more copper, but met with none. We have dwelt upon this fact merely from the great impor- tance which has been attached to every locality of native copper, by those who are induced to believe that, where a specimen exists, a mine ought to be looked for. lu read- ing the relations of travellers on the subject, we become satisfied of the incorrectness of this conclusion ; wherever the copper has been found, it has always been in de- tached masses, generally of a small weight, and appear- ing evidently out of place. We must not therefore ex- pect to find veins in their vicinity ; if the existence of copper in the west deserves all that importance which it has received, a circumstance which we very much question in the present state of the country, it is not upon the study of the localities of these fragments of native copper that we are to waste our time and means. The main object must be to ascertain whence they came ; and this can only be determined by an examination of the nature of the valleys, of the extent and abun- dance of the alluvial deposite in which they are founds SOURCE OP ST. PRTER S RIVKR. 1/1 and of the originul primitive formations, from the partial (lestructioti of wliich these extensive deposits of allu- vium, and the large boulders which accompany them, have received their origin. But these are considerations which we shall not broach at present, as they will find their place more naturally, at a later period of this work. Although the quantity of game in this part of the country is diminishing very rapidly, and although it is barely sufficient for the support of the Indians, still there is enough, and particularly of the smaller kind, to offer occupation to the amateur sportsman. There are many different kinds of aquatic birds, which feed upon the wild rice (Zizania aquatica), and other plants that thrive in the swamps which cover the country. Mr. Say observed, among others, the mallard (Anas boschas), shoveller-duck (A. clypeata), blue winged teal (A. dis- cors), common merganser (Mergus serrator), common coot (Fulica americana), stellate heron or Indian hen (Ardea minor), &c. &c. In the lake there is also a great quantity of fish, but none appears to be of a very supe- rior quality; the white fish (Coregonus albus, Lesueur), which is the greatest delicacy found in the lakes, is not caught at Chicago, but sometimes twenty or thirty miles north of it. Observations for latitude and longitude, were made here by Mr. Colhoun, from which the situation of this place was found to be in latitude 41° 59' 53" N. — longi- tude m> 47' 15" W.— Magnetic variation 6° 12' East.* During our short residence at Chicago, we were, by * See Appendix II. The longitude cannot be depended upon with cir- tainty, as there was some doubt as to tlie error of tlie watch. 'I i( it' I v.; M M m^ ' hi if ;I • : ■ I. ; ■ : i; Tv ' ;r■iT«|f;■ !:. ■ 'pf.f'F-r ■■ ■ -r ' !:■!'[ '.' ■ ''; I 1 m 'tis r\ 172 EXPKDITION TO TUK II ; ■) i'l ! i fe;:v^ the favuur uf Dr. Wulcott, the liidiuii agent, furnished with much information concerning the Indians of this vicinity, through his interpreter, Alexander Rohinson, a half-breed Chippewa, who informed u» that the Indians who frequent this part of the country arc very much in- terniixed, belonging principally to the Potawatomis, Ottawas, and Chippewas, (ochepewag,*) from which circumstance a great admixture of the three languages prevails here. The vicinity of the Miamis has also, in his opinion, tended to adulterate the language of the Pota- watomis in the neighbourhood of Fort Wayne ; and it is believed that this language is spoken in the greatest pu- rity, only along the banks of the St. Joseph of Lake Mi- chigan. Robinson did not suppose the Potawatomis to exceed two thousand five hundred souls ; but it is pro- bable that their number must be greater, especially as they are united with the Kickapoos, whose population amounts to six hundred in the State of Illinois. Accord- ing to his observations, the Potawatomis believe that they came from the vicinity of the Sault de St. Marie, where they presume that they were created. A singular belief, which they entertain, is, that the souls of the de> parted have, on their way to the great prairie, to cross a large stream, over which a log is placed as a bridge ; but that this is in such constant agitation, that none but the spirits of good men can pass over it in safety, while those of the bad slip from the log into the water, and are • (A-ch*-i-p2'-w'ig) We have in the course of this work confomied with the general usage in the spelling of this word, dropping the final y used by many authors ; but from the above method of spelling it, according to its pronunciation, it will be readily observed that the usual orthography can give no idea of the true Indian pronunciation of this word. The final letter ought to be pronounced in a manner intermediate between the g and k. ~^il SOURC'K OK 8T. PKTKK S RIVKII. 173 never after heard of. This information they pretend to have had revealed to them hy one of their unccstor!>, who, being dead, travelled to the edge of the stream, but not liking to venture on the log, determined to return to the land of the living, nhich purpose he effected, having been seen once more among lua friends, two days after lii^ reputed death, lie informed ihem of what ho had ()b$serve i 1. 'T'-l ■f Kir i *A S{'\ 176 SXPKDITION TO THR I'll about seventeen mUes. The first stream passed, on that day, was the Chicago river, -which we crossed about half a mite above the fort, and immediately above the first fork (or Gary river) ; the party next came to the River Des Plaines, which is one of, the head branches of the Illinois ; it receives its name from a variety of maple, which by the Canadians is named Plaine. In Potawa- tomi the river is termed Sheshikmaoshike Sepe* (which signifies T^^mc^t arboris quce mingit). This appellation is derived from the great quantity of sap which flows from this tree in the spring. We crossed the Des Plaines about four miles above the Portage road ; it was forty yards wide, and so deep that part of our baggage was wet while fording it, but fortunately none materially injured. The length of the Des Plaines from this ford to its source is about fifteen miles, that to its confluence with the Kankakee about forty miles. We encamped on the east bank of a small stream, about eight yards wide, designated by the Indians under the name of Otokakenog,i which means the uncovered breast. The voyagers call it De Page river, from a French- man of that name, who died and was buried on the banks of this stream. The De Page enters the Des Plaines about half a mile above its junction with the Kankakee. From Chicago to the place where we forded the Des Plaines, the country presents a low, flat, and swampy prairie, very thickly covered with high grass, aquatic plants, and among others with the wild rice. The latter occurs principally in the places which are still under water ; its blades floating on the surface of the fluid like those of the young domestic plant. The ij' 1" SOUKCB OF ST. P£TER S HIVJiK. 177 whole of this tract of country is overflowed during the sprifig, and canoes pass in every direction across the prairie. Near the fording of the Des Plaines there is a Potawatomi village, some of the inhabitants of which came to converse with us, while we were encamped at noon during a thunder storm. The birds we saw to-day consisted of prairie hens or grous (Tetrao cupido), reed- birds (Eraberiza oryzivora, Wilson), sand-hill cranes (Grus caandensis), curlews, &c. Many badger holes were observed ; we saw at the garrison one of these animals, that had been reared in the fort, and whose playful inoffensive manners, had made him a general favourite. A ride of about eighteen miles brought us to the banks of Fox river, which is a line stream about one hundred and thirty yards wide, the scenery of which is varied by several islands scattered through its channel. The country, which consisted of prairie land, became handsomely wooded in the neighbourhood of the river; a couple of Indian lodges seen in the distance, gave an appearance of inhabitance to the spot. These we found to belong to the Menomone,* or wild rice eaters, a nation that appears to be fast decreasing in numbers. The reports concerning the Menomone nations are so various, and we observed so few of them on the route, that we had not an opportunity of forming an opinion upon the disputed point of the Algonquin origin, it is said that few, if any, white men have ever been able to learn their language ; and we have been assured by the late Indian agent at Greenbay (Major John Biddle), that he had found it difficult to obtain an inter^ ^11 J% Wm i i- ' 1 VOL. I. N "1 f i ! ! 178 EXPEDITION TO THE preter capable of conversing with them in their own lan- guage. A considerable intercourse has, however, existed between them and white men ; but it is said to be princi- pally in the Algonquin languages, theprevailing medium of intercourse being the Chippewa, Ottawa, and Pota- watomi languages, or as in most cases a mixture of these three dialects. The few Menomones whom we met with were of a light colour, resembling much that of the light Mulattoes in our Atlantic states, probably nearer the colour of individuals resulting from an ad- mixture of five-eighths European with three-eighths of African blood. It is said that this light colour which distinguishes the Menomones from other Indians, results from a general admixture of European blood. But wc have been assured, that even when of pure Indian ex- traction, they are of a lighter colour than their neigh- bours, and are therefore often called the White Indians. Whether they be descendants of the Algonquins, or of a different race of men, is a question of much importance, and which, perhaps, m.iy yet be resolved by those, whose opportunities of obtaining information on that subject are greater than ours were. If they be sprung from a different race of men, it may still be questioned whether they settled here previously or subsequently to the Algonguin tribes. Charlevoix says that they were not populous in his time. " This is to be regretted," he adds, " for they are very fine men, and the best shaped of all Canada ; they are even taller than the Pouteouata- mis. I am assured that they have the same origin, and nearly the same language as the Noquets and Sauiteurs, (Leapers ;)* but they add, that they have also a particular language, which they keej) to themselveF.'''^ The Meno- Chippewas. f Journal Historique, Letter 19th. mi • ! SOURC£ OF ST. PETER S RIVRR. 179 mones at present reside principally on the west shore of Lake Michigan north of the Milwacke, in the vicinity of Greenbay, and on the head waters of Fox river, (of Greenbay,) of Menomone river, &c. Their personal appearance is very favourable, and indicative of more neatness, and of a greater taste for ornament, than that of any other of our north-western Indians. Their mode of preparing belts, garters, sheaths for knives, moccasins, &c. and of ornamenting them with beads, and with the coloured quills of porcupines, evinces much taste, and this of the best kind. It does not appear that with them the mere combination of many gaudy colours constitutes beauty ; but this is made to depend more upon the pro- per union of the three colours, white, red, and blue united, to form symmetric and varied designs. The Fox river, which we crossed, must not be mistaken for the same which runs north-eastwardly into Greenbay of Lake Michigan. Its course is in a different direction, being nearly south-west ; it falls into the Illinois about fifteen or twenty miles below the confluence of the Des Plaines and Kankakee. The Fox river of the Illinois is called by the Indians Pishtako.'^ It is the same which is mentioned by Charlevoix untes' the name of Pisticoui, and which flows, as he says, through the country of the Mascoutins. At present it is claimed, at least in this part, by the Potawatomis and Kickapoos, who are incorporated to- gether; the Menomones are allowed to remain there, on account of their being connected by intermarriages. The river has a fine gravelly bottom, and was very easily forded. On the west side we reached a beautiful but • Pish-t^l-kA. N 2 ill , [ r, i !> 1 180 KXPKDiriON TO THIi; 1 '■ l.l small prairie, situated on a high bank, wliich approaches within two hundred and fifty yards of the edge of the water ; and upon this prairie we discovered a number of mounds, which appeared to have been arranged with a certain degree of regularity. Of these mounds we counted twenty-seven ; they vary from one to four feet and a half in height, and from fifteen to twenty-five in length ; their breadth is not proportional to their length, as it seldom exceeds from six to eight feet. They are placed at unequal distances, which average about twenty yards j they are chiefly upon the brow of the hill, but some of them stand at a greater distance back. Their form appears to have been originally oval; and the slight depression in the ground, observed sometimes on both sides of a mound, seems to indicate, that it has been raised by means of the earth collected in its immediate vicinity. We remained ignorant of the causes which may have given rise to their construction, or of the circumstances under which they were executed. Of their artificial na- ture, no doubt could be entertained. They may probably have been ancient dirt lodges, similar to the ruins ob- served by Mr. Say, during the expedition to the Rocky mountains, and which were known to be the remains of lodges that had existed within the memory of some of the Indians then living. It does not appear that the Indians, who reside near the Fox river, have any recol- lection or tradition on this subject. Our guide informed us, that they believed, upon the authority of the mission- aries, that these mounds were of antediluvian origin, and probably erected as places of retreat for their families in time of war. Proceeding two miles further, through a thinly wooded country, we crossed a brook four yards wide ; and six SOL'RCS OF hT. PKTKR is IIIVKR. 181 miles further of fine rolling prairie, interspersed with light woods, brought us to our encampment of the 12tli of June. As we stopped upon the encamping ground, a night-hawk flew awaj' and abandoned two eggs, which she appeared to have deposited on the ground, without preparing any kind of nest ; they were of a dull white colour, thickly spotted over witli dirty brown blotches. A heavy shower, accompanied by thunder and lightning, made the weather very comfortable. But a high wind, which arose during the night, rendered travelling very unpleasant in the morning. At about twenty-eight miles in a general westerly course from the Pishtako, we came to a beautiful winding stream, called the Kishwake,* Cottonwood. It is about twelve yards wide, and is a tri- butary of Rock river. About one mile and a half below the place where we forded this stream, we saw a small Indian village, designated by the name of Wakesa,t (little bend.) from its situation at one of the bends of the Kishwake. It consisted of four lodges, the population of which was computed to amount to at least sixty per- sons, as there were many crowded into one lodge ; the village is chiefly inhabited by Menomones, with a few Potawatomis who have intermarried with them. We stopped at the lodge of the chief, whose name is Kaka- keshaj (Crow). He, together with many of his people, was engaged in his corn-fields ; on seeing the strangers, they gave the dog-whoop, and collected at the house at which we had stopped. They were all tall and muscular men, well built, and better looking than the Potawatomis generally are ; their countenance was agreeable, and de- noted none of that severity about the mouth which • Kish-wi-k*. f Wi-kl'si. N 3 \ K'^-k^a-ki'-.h'i, i ft '. 1 a if ' 1 H !° (.,1 fr'n' \:\' i ' 1:' i'l' i'fc ski Mi-m IM1 li ii ]82 EXPEDITION TO THE Volney ascribes to tliose whom he saw. The chief is a very old man and quite bald ; at the time he approaclied us he had a child-board on his back, in which he carried his little grandson. Although advanced in years, Kaka- kesha had none of the decrepitude of old age ; there was much dignity in his manner. The women were all very ugly* and the children looked like little imps, in whose countenance, and apparently deformed bodies, we could scarcely discover the embryo of men so tall and elegant as those who stood before us. Most of their youth had gone out on a hunting excursion. The men whom we saw were almost naked, having no other garment than the breech-cloth, but as we drew near them they gathered up their blankets ; the women had a sort of short gown and a blanket ; the children ran about naked, with no other appendage than a belt round their loins. It is curious to observe that all Indians, whether old or young, wear a belt, even when they have nothing to attach to it ; and the children, who seldom assume the breech-cloth until they attain the age of puberty , have all a belt tied round them, as soon as they can run about. The house, which we visited, was about twenty feet long by fifteen wide, and full twelve feet high at its centre. Seen from a distance, it resembled a log-house ; but on ap- proaching we discovered it to be formed of bark, se* cured to a frame made of poles, and covered with the same material. It had the appearance of being vei7 comfortable. The fire was made in the middle of the house ; two sides of the interior were occupied with a frame, three feet high and four or five feet wide, which was covered with blankets, skins, &c. and on these the inmates sleep and eat ; upon these we were invited to sit down. There is no sign of partition, or of any thing '■'I SOUIICB OF ST. l>li,Tl£R S ItlVtill. 183 that can serve as a skreen to separate or divide one part of the family from another. A woman who was sick, lay in the lodge exposed to view, until the child, which was taken from the chiefs back, and which was her's, was handed over naked to her. Whether from this cir- cumstance, or to avoid the curious glances of some of our p?rty, who appeared to be watching the sick womai's motions, we know not, but a blanket was soon suspended in order to conceal the i)aticnt from view. The disposition of these Indians was friendly. The object of the expedition was explained to them, to which they made no reply, but the chief directed his squaw, who was a very fleshy women, to give us some maple sugar in return for the tobacco we had presented him ; he expressed his regret at having no fresh meat to give us ; but added, that if his hunters returned that evening with meat, he wouhl send some to our camp. We were a little shocked at their familiar disposition, which we at first mistook for intentional impudence ; they all col- lected round us, took our guns, and began to examine them with care, appeared to be highly pleased with the double-barrelled guns of some of the gentlemen of our party ; one of them even drew Mr. Say's hunting knife from the sheath, and after having examined it, returned it; he then took Mr. Say's hat, which was a white beaver one, and after having also examined this with care, tried it on his own head. All this, however, ap- ])eared to proceed rather from childish curiosity than from any intention to give offence. After some time, they began to beg for bacon, which soon compelled us to leave them. In order to avoid all further importunity, we travelled ten miles before night, and encamped on a fine piece of N 4 :i!''. ►if \\A '1 '■ 4 I! I' ) li 184 UXPKUITION 10 THK level ground, which was watered by u small stream that discharged itself three miles below into the Kish- wake. The thermometer was observed, at six o'clock, j>. M., to be at eighty-two degrees in the shade, but no inconvenience was felt from the heat, owing to a fine westerly breeze wliich prevailed during the day. On the 14th of July, the party reached Rock river, which is the most important tributary of the Mississippi, between the Illinois and the Wisconsan. Rock river is termed, in the languages derived from the Algonquin, Sinsepe,* and in the Winnebago Weroshanagra,t both which names have the same signitication as the English term. It forms the division between the hunt- ing grounds claimed by the Potawatomis, on the eastern side, and those of the Sauks, Foxes, and Winnebagoes on the west. At the place where we crossed the river it was about one hundred and twenty yards wide ; and its depth was such that it could not be forded at that time, though we were informed that it is customary for horses loaded with furs, to cross it without difficulty. We were ferried over in a small canoe, sent for us from an Indian village in the vicinity. We crossed Rock river just above the mouth of the Kishwake, the same stream which we had passed tlie day before, but which, from its great increase, we scarcely recognised, when we saw it three miles above its mouth, where we were again obliged to cross it. Opposite to the mouth of the Kishwake there is a large island in Rock river. At the lower crossing of the Kishwake, we passed through an Indian village, designated by the name of the river, and which is inhabited by a mixed race of Potawatomis, Chippewas, Ottawas, Menomones, &c. * Sin-se-pi. t W^-rAsh^-ni-gri. ! K' SOUHCB or ST. PBTBR S RIVKR. 185 i,y Tlie chief, who belongs to the first of these nations, was away at the time we were there, and in his absence we saw no person who could converse with us. A 1m(), who was in the village, and who, as we were told, was the son of the lute chief, when spoken to, made no answer, but seemed to be very stupid; although the other Indians did not appear destitute of intelligence, yet not one of them could converse with us. This, Indeed, is one of the characteristics of Indians. The business of receiving and replying to speeches belongs to the chief, it is one of his proudest prerogatives, and it is one in which he chiefly endeavours to excel ; while the other Indians, seeming to consider it as no concern of theirs, pay no attention to it, and are always at a loss when spoken to by those whom they are accus- tomed to treat with respect or with regard ; but with the traders, whom they ridicule, and for whom they openly profess the most manifest contempt, they will join in conversation very freely and familiarly. After having crossed Rock river, we stopped to dine on the high bank which confines it on the west side, and were not a little amused at the apparent delight with which the little Indian boy, who had brought tlie canoe to us from Kishwake village up Rock river, ate the bread and bacon which we gave him ; it really seemed as though it were the most delicate food that he had ever tasted. The valley of Rock river is about half a mile wide at this place ; it is utterly destitute of rocks, differing, in this respect, very much from the characters observed higher up, and which have entitled it to the name that it now bears. We could not, however, ascertain whether the rocks were there in place, or merely boul- f... ,!.i!l 186 KXPKDITlOIf TO THB I I (ler8. We had, in the course of the morning, observed a spot where the limestone appeared in situ ; this was, in every respect, similar to that found near Chicago. The boulders and pebbles which, from Chicago to Fox river, had not appeared to be as numerous as in some other parts of the route, were, after we had seen the limestone in the morning, found to increase rapidly in number, though not perhaps in size. From his former observations upon the country, Major Long thouglit we were approaching what has been considered tlic lead formation of the west, and this was confirmed by the assertion of our guide, that much lead had been found on some of the tributaries of Rock river, where it is worked by the Indians, in small quantities for their own use. This induced us to make a careful examina- tion of the country, with a view to ascertain whether any lead ore occurred upon our route, and if it did, under what circumstances. We met with none; but from all the characters observed in the country, we hesitate not in considering its surface to be covered by an ancient alluvium, the alluvium of mountains of the Wer- nerian school; and in which, of course, if any lead should be found, it must be out of its original site. This alluvium consists principally of a bed of loose and uncemented pebbles, varying in size from the smallest grain to the dimensions of an apple, and interspersed with boulders, which are frequently of very large dimensions : but these do not appear to be so frequent here, whether it be because they are buried in, and concealed by the peb- bles, or because they were not deposited here, we had no means of determining. The alluvium appears to consist chiefly of the detritus of primitive rocks, such as frag- ments of quartz, granite, sienite, &c. but a» far as we i i »OVRCH OP ST. PKTER 8 BlVBit. 187 could observe, without any trace of a mctalliferaus mi- neral. There arc also many fragments of limestone, in* tersperscd throughout the maHs. Under the alluvium) the limestone observed in the morning probably extends to a great distance. From the observations which we have been able to make, we believe it to he the same limc$>tone formation, which extends from Piqua to Fort Si. Mary, and which is seen near Fort Wayne, Chicago, and Rock river. Whether it be the same as that ob- served further east, or in what relation it stands to it, we are not desirous of deciding positively, but we believe it to be at least as modern as that found above the coal formations of Wheeling and Zanesvillc, and perhaps more so. We have spoken of the supposed lead forma- tions of Rock river ; not having visited Dubuque's lead mines, or those in the state of Missouri, it would be im- possible for us to express a decided opinion upon their nature ; but from all that we have heard on the subject, as well as from whnt has been written upon these lead mines, we can scarcely hesitate in considering the ore as being equally out of place there. Whether the origi- nal sites, from which it has been detached, are still to be found in the vicinity, is a point which those alone who have seen the country are competent to decide, if indeed, the question can, in the present state of science, be re- solved ; the authors who have written upon this subject have, as it appears to us, left the question open ; for while they assert that the lead is found in clay, they ap- pear to us desirous to convey, at all times, the impres* sion that it is in place, as we are informed that it ** is found in detached pieces and solid masses, in veins and beds in red clay, and accompanied by sulphurate (suU phate ?) of barytes, calcareous spar, blende, iron pyrites, ■J i M •■M if 188 EXPEDITION TO THB and quartz/'* Now, that all the indications mentioned by those who have seen the mines, justify a belief that the lead is not in its original site, we consider as satis- factorily proved. That the lead ore as well as the accom- panying minerals, must be out of place, is equally appa- rent, from the circumstance, that while the clay is said to repose upon the limestone, the ore is not stated to have ever been worked in this rock. We are told, that " the greatest proportion of lead ore is, however, found imbedded in, and accompanied by the sulphate of barytes resting in a thick stratum of marly clay, bottomed on limestone rock. The rock is invariably struck at a depth of from fifteen to twenty feet, and puts a stop to the pro- gress of the miner in a common way. To go further it is necessary to drill or blast, and this creates an expense which the generality of diggers are unwilling to incur, if not unable to support."t Again, we find " in dig- ging down from fifteen to twenty feet, the rock is gene- rally struck : and as the signs of ore generally ^'ive out on coming to the rock, many of the pits are carried no further."! Finally, in his visit to Dubuque's lead mines, performed in the year 1820, Mr. Schoolcraft ob- served, that the ore " had been chiefly explored in allu- vial soil;" though he at the same time states, that *Mt generally occurs in beds or veins."§ From the speci- mens v'hich we have seen, as well as from all that we have heard and read^ we cannot hesitate in asserting it as our opinion, that no lead has as yet been discovered on the Merrimeg or Mississippi in a metalliferous lime- • View of the Leads Mines of Missouri. New York, 1819. p. 67. t Idid, p. 69. \ Ibid, p. 108. § Schoolcraft's Narrative Journai of Travels, &c. p. 344. I k ■ fi-sv SOURCE OF ST. PETBIl S RIVER. 189 stone 'i* but that, wljerever it has been found, it has al- ways been in an 'illuvinni, and never in regular veins or beds, nor even in masses, which might be considered as coeval, with the substances in which they are im- bedded. On both banks of the Kishwake, not far from its month, there are many mounds in every respect similar to those met with on Fox river, but scattered along the bank without any apparent order. Mr. Say counted upwards of thirty of these mounds. It is probable that they were formerly the cemeteries of a large Indian po- pulation which resided on the banks of the Kishwake, and which had perhaps its principal village at the beau- tiful confluence of this stream with Rock river. In travelling over a prairie country, the party were often obliged to lengthen or shorten their day's jour- ney, in order to accommodate themselves to the scarcity of water and wood. The afternoon of the I4th of June we encs?mped at three o'clock, as the distance to the next camping ground would have led us too far into the evening. The afternoon was employed in taking obser- vations for longitude, and in making such repairs and alterations in our travelling equipage as had become ne> cessary. Our horses' backs had been chafed by the saddle, notwithstanding all the care taken to keep them in a sound state, which was dictated not only by huma- * By metalliferous limestone, we allude to that in which the lead-mines of Cumberland and Derbyshire in England, of Vearin in Belgium, &c. are found. This limestone is by most geologists considered older than the coal, and probably in many instances connected with transition formations ; ac- cording to Conybeare and Philips, it is placed imder the name of mountain limestone, between the old red sandstone formation, and the coal measures. (Vide Geology of England and Wales, London, 1822, part 1. plate, fig. 3-) ! V r ) ! 'I- .!•! W' .^■- M ■■ tF^' r ; i ' ti f! if i J \ , ■;: Si i ■ 1 1 ■ 1 i 1 i-; ■ li 190 EXPEDITION TO THK nity, but also by a provident attention to our own in- terest ; for very little experience is required to satisfy a traveller that much of his comfort and expedition, on such a journey as ours, depends upon the circumstance of his horse's back not being galled, as it otherwise tor- ments and tires the animal before he has performed much work. For the information of other travellers, we may mention, that after having tried many applica- tions, we have found none that succeeded so well as white lead moistened with milk, as long asthis could be procured j after we had left the settlements, sweet oil was used as a substitute for milk ; whenever the application was made in the early stage of the wound we have found it to be very effectual. It is likewise a convenient one to carry on an expedition, as a couple of ounces of white lead sufficed for the whole of our party during more than a month. The succeeding morning the weather was very fair, and the party continued its course over fine undulating prairies, expanded in every direction, so as to appear in some cases unbounded by woods. The only defect which we observed in the country between Chicago and the Mississippi, is the scarcity of wood, which is more se- riously felt on the west side of Rock river, than to the east of it. This will perhaps be the principal difficulty in settling the country j otherwise the land is good, not hilly, sufficiently watered, and would, we doubt not, prove productive if well worked. Limestone is fre- quently to be met with, even west of Rock river; in other places the soil lies upon pebbles of white horn- stone ; the boulders are not sufficiently abundant to prove injurious to agriculture. We observed as a dis- tinction between those seen within the two last davs, •f! SOURCK OF ST. PETRR S RIVER." 191 and those met with east of Rock river, that the former contain principally hornblende instead of mica in their composition, while the boulders near Lake Michigan were chiefly granitic. The rock, which has given rise to the hornblendic boulders, is one of a peculiar and in- teresting nature) it differs from sienite by the presence of quartz, from granite by the substitution of hornblende for mica. This rock has not received much attention from European authors ; it does not appear to occupy a vei7 important rank in the geology of Europe, while, on the contrary, it is very abundant in North America. Those who are conversant with the mineralogy of New Jersey, know that it constitutes most of the primitive rocks which are found in West Jersey, and which have been described either as granite or sienite ; however extensive that deposit may be, it bears no comparison to the extensive formation of this rock, which we shall have occasion hereafter to describe, and from which the fragments, which constitute the boulders found in Illi- nois, Indiana, Ohio, &c. have, as we believe, been de- tached. After travelling eighteen miles, we reached a small stream, designated by the name of Pektannons,^ a dimi- nutive of Pektannon,+ a neighbouring stream into which it discharges itself a few miles below. The meaning of this last in the Sauk language is muddy, and it is re- * Pek-t4n-nons. f Pektinnon. As we have had frequent opportunities of observing a naoal termination in Indian words, belonging both to the Sauk, Dacota, and other languages, we have adopted the sign (n) to designate this sound, which is equivalent to the nasal termination of the French language, thus in the word Pektannon, the last syllable is pronounced by the Indians, exactly as the word nanv is by the French. \ t ■",**! nil'' :r li H [ ;,■■ ■*■■) ■' f B: •. .,r,|S 1" ' C J 'vM -m .^1 192 EXPEDITION TO THB H ^11 'il " t inarkable that the same name has been applied to tlte Missouri by the Sauks. Our guide informed us that it was very common for the Sauks to form a diminutive of a word, by the addition of a hissing sound at the end, as in the abovemcntioued instance. Observing that Le Sellier seemed to have gone beyond the limits of the country with which he was acquainted, Major Long thought it would be desirable to endeavour to procure an Indian, as a guide to Prairie du Chien ; and as we were in the vicinity of an Indian village, Le Sellier was sent a-head, to request one of the men to accompany us. The village to which he went was situated on the main stream, about three miles from the place where we had halted for dinner on the Pek- tannons ; it consisted of seven permanent and three temporary lodges, inhabited principally by Sauks, Foxes, Winnebagoes, Menomones, and Potawatomis. Their chief is a Sauk ; he was absent, but we saw his elder brother, whom we engaged to accompany us to Prairie du Chien. His name was Wanebea Namoeta^ (spin- ning top), the chiefs name was Wabetejecf (white cedar). We visited the inside of their bark lodges, which were very comfortable j the number of men appeared to us much greater than that of women in the village. Being aware of our approach, from the information received through Le Sellier, they had ma- nifested their friendly disposition by hoisting flags, or white rags, all around their village, and, among others, three white flags hung from the head and arms of a large cross, rudely cut out, which marked the grave of some departed white man. Their behaviour was less familiar than that of the Indians whom we had last i« i-:: SOURCE OF ST. PETER S RIVER. 193 met with ; but as they evinced the same curiosity to examine our arms, we were led to ascribe their greater, reserve, to the admonition given that morning to the Frenchman, that the familiar manner with which he behaved towards tliem, must be discontinued in our presence, as to tliat we ascribed their forwardness. The men of this village were distinguished from those ob- served in other places, by their unusually dark and expressive eyes, the playful smile of their mouth, and their well-formed nose. We found them very short of provisions ; they offered us, however, a bowlful of maize, which was very acceptable, as our bread-corn had been consumed. One of the party observed in the lodge a large basket, full of acorns, intended no doubt for food. We proceeded that afternoon a few miles further, and encamped on a beautiful spot near the Pektannon j it was on the verge of a fine wood. The adjoining prairie afforded our horses the finest pasture that could be wished for ; an attempt to fish was made, but it proved unsuccessful. It does not seem that the^^e rivers abound in fish, and the Indians place no depen- dence upon the produce of the fishery for their support. While encamped this evening, we were visited by several Indians, who came from the village, and who behaved themselves in a very becoming manner. In order to compare the language of the Winnebagoes, ns spoken here, with that contained in the vocabulary obtained by Major Long in the year I817> and which is recorded in the " Account of an Expedition to the Rocky Mountains," (vol. 2, p. Ixxxvi.), we read to one of these Indians, who was a Winnebago, the words as published in the vocabulary, with a view to ascertain whether or not he understood them j the attempt was VOL. r. 6 ■!h li ■.fifet ■■ ?■ M ...tl 194 EXPEDITION TO THE rather a difficult one, as he liad to convey the meaning of the Winnebago term in the Sauk language to Le Sellier, who translated it into French to one of the party by whom it was reduced into English. The result of this threefold translation was, however, that he recog- nised, without hesitation, about one-third of the words ; the meaning of the remainder, which he did not readily understand, being conveyed to him through the Sank language, he repeated about one-half of them with a slight variation, frequently no other than the addition of a termination in ra, which appeared to be a sort of dialect. Some of the words he seemed not to recognise at all, even after their supposed meaning had been ex- plained to him through the interpreter. Major Long, whose health had been somewhat im- paired for a few days previous, was so severely affected, on the 15th, with fever and sick stomach, that we began to apprehend that his indisposition would prove a serious one, but the timely application of medical assistance fortunately relieved him. Wennebea, of whom we have preserved a very good likeness, taken by Mr. Seymour (plate III. middle figure), is a young and good looking Indian, whose face denotes more cheerfulness than is generally ob- served in the countenance of man in the savage life. He seems to be of a lively, cheerful disposition, judging from the laughter which frequently animated his con- versation with Le Sellier ; to us he was always uniformly polite and obliging. His dress consisted, as usual with the Indians of this country, of a blanket thrown over his shoulders, and reaching to his ankles ; a breech- cloth of blue broad-cloth ; buckskin leggings and moc- cassins of the same material. The leggings are very W i n SOURCE OF ST. FKTKll S RIVER. 195 neaning e to Le le party result of e rccog- B words ; )t readily ,he Sank lem with ; addition a sort of recognise i been ex- swhat im- y aflfected, t we began e a serious assistance very good II. middle ian, whose nerally ob- savage life. )«, judging ed his con- s uniformly usual with irown over ; a breech- es and moc- gs are very 'S simihir to a Chinese garment that supplies the place of pantaloons ; they reacli up to the hips, covering the whole limb, and are secured to thongs tied to a leather belt around the waist. Garters, generally very much or- namented with porcupine quills, beads, and other fanciful articles, support the leggings immediately below the knee. His pipe was stuck into the plaited hair which he wore on the crown of his head. He was provided with a gun, of the kind distinguished by the name of Mackinaw gun, with a spare ramrod, shot-pouch, &c. Wennebea rode a little bay-mare, with a long untrimmed tail ; she was so small that his legs appeared almost to sweep the ground as he travelled over the prairie ; but the little animal was a fiery one, probably about four years old ; her growth had doubtless been stunted by too early an application to labour. We could not help, frequently, expressing our admiration at the graceful and easy man- ner in which this man rode across the plain, occasionally allowing his blanket to drop upon his horse's back, and displaying the stout and symmetric shoulders and chest, which generally characterize man when in a state of na- ture, and unimpaired by the effeminating habits and vices of civilized life. We scarcely recognised our guide a few days afterwards, when we saw him with a calico shirt, which he had borrowed from Le Sellier and which concealed his well-formed limbs ; on inquiring into the cause of this addition to his usual costume, we were told, that the sun being very hot on the prairie, he had ac- cepted the offer to protect his shoulders, against its in- fluence, by means of a shirt. This proves how ready these Indians are to abandon their natural manners, and to assume the artificial ones of civilized man. Wennebea wore this garment at first with an apparent air of osten- o 2 f};.|| ,i'!||-i M •■♦1 196 EXPKDITION TO TIlR tation, which confirmed us in our opinion, that the Indian is no wiser than tl»e white man in this respect, often priding himself upon the acquisition of a garment, whicli detracts from, rather than adds to, his personal appear- ance. He seemed to be well acquainted with the coun- try, and followed no track across the prairie ; but his course was directed by landmarks, such as hills', woods, &c. He appeared to guide himself, likewise, by the situation of the sun in the heavens; but we were satisfied, on more than one occasion, of the inaccuracy of those who suppose that an Indian has an infallible method of discovering, at all times, the direction in which he wishes to travel, and that he never can be lost. His habits of observation enable him, it is true, to discover signs, which would probably escape the attention 'of the less experienced white man. Thus, if the sun be obscured, his keen eye will sometimes detect, from habit, its place in the heavens; at other times, it is said that he can, by close inspection, discover very faint shadovvs, which would elude the observation of a less practised eye. When these characters fail, he may, in a forest, point with certainty to the north, from the circumstance; that the moss grows more abundantly upon that side of a tree than upon the others, fiut if left on a prairie, at a distance from trees, when the heavens are deeply cloud- ed, or during the prevalence of a dense fog, the Indian, as well as the white man, will often be unable to direct himself properly. We frequently observed during the march, that he skreened his eyes with his hands, and seemed to study very attentively the distant points of woods and the surrounding prairie, whether to make sure of the proper route, or to discover signs of game or enemies, we know not. SOURCK OK ST. PKTKR S RIVER. ll>7 Weiiuebca led us in a general north-westerly direc- tion^ at first through thin woods, which gradually disap- peared, their place being supplied by an extensive and apparently boundless prairie, which occupied us a whole (lay in crossing it. The woods consisted of small oaks without undergrowth ; the prairie, upon which we were travelling, was undulated, and extended itself along the base of the dividing ridge between the streams tributary to the Mississippi and those which fall into Rock river. This ridge stretched on our left, in a direction nearly parallel to our general course ; it appeared to be in some places from one hundred to one hundred and fifty feet high, and from six to eight miles distant. Soon after we entered the prairie, a deer crossed our route about two miles ahead of us: Wennebea started in pursuit, but returned in the course of an hour, after a fruitless and fatiguing chace. He brought back, however, a cur- lew (Numenius longirostris), a bird of which we occa- sionally roused a pair or two. We frequently observed the majestic sand-hill crane (Grus Canadensis), striding across the prairie. This animal, if taken young, can, it is said, be domesticated with ease. Two or three of them were kept last season at Chicago, being allowed to pass freely before the sentinels ; but they never failed to return to their nests. We also saw on the prairie the fine swallow-tailed Hawk (Falco [MilvusJ furcatus), flying over us. Our guide showed us a spot where an action had been fought, about sixty or seventy years ago, between the Sauks and the Peoras ; the former were suc- cessful and lost but one man, while they killed ten of the enemy. This took place on an elevated hill, command- ing an extensive view of the prairie, and crowned with o 3 'i ii '!?' '»! tl. m I n 1; i 11 M n 108 EXFKDITION TU THK a forest in which the engagement is said to have taken place. The country becomes interspersed with hills, which contribute to vary the scenery; among otliers which were very distinct, we observed two, rising close along side of each other, forming two twin peaks insulated in the midst of the prairie; the distance between the two being about one mile and a quarter in an east and west direction ; they are visible for upwards of thirty miles, and constitute one of the best landmarks we have ever seen. They are called in the Sauk language Enne- shoteno^ (which signifies the two mountains being com- posed of ennesjf two, and oleno,| hills). Our guide in- formed us that the hill marked on the maps as the Smoky-hill {Montagne qui bouccane of the French), lay a long day's march (about thirty miles) in a no''y Conybeare and Phillips Xi ■> .hi ^^'1'^ yy\': > I li r'. ^1 202 KXrEDlTION TO THE (page 302), on the authority of Mr. Wynch, that the magnesian limestone is occasionally oolitic. It presents in many of its points the characters of the rmichwacke, and especially thecellularorcavernousstructure ; it is sel- dom found very abundantly strewed with organic remains; its colour is the pale buff passing to the ash-grey. In fine, the more attentively we examine it, tlie more closely do we find it to connect itself with the formations of Thuringen, and with those which cover so extensive a part of England, and more particularly with that observed in Yorkshire by Professor Buckland; offering thus, as it appears to us, a beautiful confirmation of the analogy established between the various kinds of this limestone, observed in divers parts of Europe. There is an experiment which would, as we conceive, place the matter beyond a doubt; this would be an analysis of the limestone with a view to ascertain the quantity of magnesia which it contains, and we regret much that the loss of our specimens has deprived us of the opportunity of making this analysis. But we think the case sufficiently strong to justify us in coT'^idering this as the formation corresponding to the magnesian limestone of England, and the rauchwacke and zec/istein of Thuringen.* In offering those remarks to geologists, we have not overlooked the very correct observation of one whose experience adds value to the advice which he gives to • The reader is referred to the Outlines of the Geology of England and Wales, by the Rev. W. D. Conybeare and Wm. Phillips, &c. London, 1822, p. 300, et seq. Trait<; de G^ognosie, par J. F. D'Aubuisson de Voisons, Paris, 1819, vol. ii. p. 336, 337, 343, 353. J. C. Freieslebcn's Geognosticlie Arbeiten, (Beytriig ziir kentniss dcs kupfcrschiefer-ge- Lirges). ' WF' SOUllCB OF ST. PETER f RIVER. 203 naturalists; indeed wc have found the truth of Mr. D'Aubuisson's remark fully exemplified here. *' Let us further observe," says he, " that the influence of locali- ties becomes more sensible as we draw near to modern epochas, and we shall be convinced of the difliculty of drawing certain conclusions as to the identity of two calcareous formations somewhat distant." If with this remark before us, we are thought to have ventured too much in supposing a connection between the formations of England and Germany, and those west of the AUegha- nies let it be remembered that we only offer this as a sug- gestion to the future iuvestigatorof our western limestone, in order that he may turn his attention to the subject with more favourable opportunities of observation than those afforded us by a transient visit to the country. We shall have occasion to mention some further facts which we consider as adding strength to the opinion which we have advanced. But there is another question which naturally arises ; if, as Mr. Freiesleben has descri- bed it the zechstien presents specks of galena or sulphuret of lead ; if, as Mr. Conybeare states, the galena is seen " occurring in strings in the magnesian limestone of Nottingham and Durham ; if it has been occasionally found in the conglomerate beds associated with this formation, particularly near Mcndip-hills, in England ; if it contains veins of sulphate of barytes at the Huddle- ston quarry near Sherburu, between Ferrybridge and York ; if it is traversed by veins of sulphate of barytes near Nottingham, at Bramham Moor, &c. may it not then be asked, whether these considerations do not render it probable that the great lead deposit of the west is in this limestone? and is it not likely that all that has been worked in an alluvium has bten detached from '.'M :!'i III ' r^M Ml 204 EXPEDITION TO TIIK thU formation ? These are questions upon whicli, in the present state of our acquaintance with the western limestone, we must profess ourselves unable to give a decided opinion ; but, from various circumstances which we need not dwell upon, we should incline to consider the lead ore as probably existing in an older limestone which we think lies under this ; and which may be con- nected with the mountain or carboniferous limestone of Messrs. Conybeare and Phillips, the metalliferous lime- stone of other geologists. The country becomes more undulated as we draw nearer to the Mississippi; the ridges are low but some- what steep, owing to the horizontal stratification of the rocks; one of the sides very frequently discovers the composition of the hills by a steep break. At other times the country presents the waved appearance of a somewhat ruffled ocean ; it is covered with a short dry grass, the vegetation generally appearing inferior to that of the alluvial country through which we had previously passed. This waved appearance seems to have been caused by the production of valleys subsequently formed, and extending from north-east to south-west, all dipping to the latter point; these are said to continue almost in a straight line to the Mississippi. Our object being to strike that river at a point further north, our course which approached to a north-west direction, obliged us to cross all these ridges and valleys nearly at right angles. No granitic blocks were to be seen ; this is accounted for by the fact that we were no longer upon the alluvial formation, but upon the magnesian limestone which rises to a greater height, constituting the dividing ridge between the Mississippi, Rock river, anil liie Wisconsan, and perhaps connecting itself with what have been termed the Wis-couijau hilh. SOURCE OF ST. PETF-ll S RIVKR. 205 The features whicli \vc observed from ihe Wasscmoii to the vViscons^an are extremely interesting. At a dis- tance of a few miles north-west of the former stream, the vegetation j)resented a sudden and striking change, announcing a corresponding one in the geological cha- racter of the conntry. We ascended a rough, steep, and hilly ground, which was covered with heavy timber, and with a very thick underwood, consisting principally of young oak and aspen. This thick brush-wood con- tinued for about two miles, when we struck the bank of a small stream, remarkable for the beauty of its scenery, which differed from any that we had hitherto met with. The broek runs in a deep and narrow glen, the sides of which are very steep, and in some places vertical ; they are covered at their summit with a dense vegetation, which extends over the edge of the rock, and imparts a character of austerity and of gloom to this secluded valley, which finds not its parallel in any that we recollect having ever seen. The dark colour which the water receives from the deep shadows cast by the high steep bank and its overhanging vegetation, forms a pleasing relief to the glare, so uniformly fatiguing, of the unsheltered prairie. This spot conveyed so much relief to the eye and to the mind, that the party could not represy their delight on beholding it. The geologist who connects a change in the nature of the subjacent rock, with a diversity in the character of the countiy, or of its vegetation, would naturally find an explanation for the new features which the country assumes by observing that the high banks of this glen are formed of sandstone rocks, the nature of which we had an opportunity of studying with attention during a great part of our journey of (he 18th of June. We observed »I:J i ;tfi 'V T) ■M t, il 111 l| ill 206 EXPEDITION TO THE I V ' that the sandstone is distinctly superposed to the lime- stone ; that it constitutes upon it hills, which vary from thirty to one hundred feet and upwards ; these hills are divided by valleys, in the bottom of which the limestone reappears in place. The sidesof the hills are steep, and but few indications of stratifications are observable, except where the valley is partly excavated in the limestone it- self; in which case the lower part of the hill is less steep, but presents a distinct stratification. The line of super- position of the sandstone over the limestone, may also be traced with considerable accuracy by the examination of the vegetation. Whenever the latter rock prevails, the surface is even and smooth, br modified by gentle swells, covered with a thick and long grass, and forming an uniform fine green meadow-like country, while the sandstone invariably imparts to the surface an asperity which is as distinct as the vigorous growth of trees with which it is covered, and as its abundant under- growth, which denotes a strong and productive soil, having a tendency to bear heavy forests. The rock is a white sandstone, formed of fragments of fine transparent and colourless quartz, united by a cement, which, in some parts, appears to be ferruginous, while in others it is colourless, and probably of a calca- reous nature. In some parts the cement is quite in- visible, and would almost lead to the belief that the union of the grains was the result of crystallization. This sandstone appears in fragments or tatters, and con- stitutes the remains of a formation, which probably covered the whole of the limestone, at least in this part of the country. That it is above the limestone, no doubt can exist, in our minds, as we saw the immediate superposition. It sometimes appears, it is true, to sink SOUIICK OF ST. PETER S RIVEK. 207 below the level of that rock ; anrl this led iis at first to apprehend that there might he an alternation of strata, but a careful examination of all these spots has left no doubt in our minds, that in these cases the sandstone is deposited in coves or valleys formed in the limestone previous to the deposition of the sandstone j tliese cases are, however, not common, and we may safely state, as a general rule, that not only the sandstone is rela- tively above the limestone, but that it is even, in almost all cases, at a greater absolute elevation ; and the spot, at which we first met with it, west of the Wassemon, was considerably elevated above the usual level of the limestone ; for, wherever the sandstone has retained its position, it has protected the limestone against decom- position, and hence, in such places, the latter rock still continues to rise to a higher level than where it is laid bare, and exposed to the destructive influence of at- mospherical agents. We also observed very distinctly, that while the valleys, formed in the limestone at a time anterior to the deposition of the sandstone, were few, those produced subsequently were numerous, as was indicated by the great roughness and unevenness of the sandstone country, and by the many undulations in the uncovered limestone which we have already had occa- sion to mention. From the observations made on the 18th, it was thought very probable that all the hills observed at a distance on the 17th, were formed of this sandstone; and from some characters which had ap- peared, at the time, to present an anomaly, it was in ferred that the Euneshoteno or twin mountains, near which we had passed that day, without stopping, were probably also remains of the general sandstone for- mation which extended over the whole countrv. No ■;'t > it : h '•i ■'n ' ii, ! 'i^im ■ii • f :i'i1 [■-^I I t m .1 I? ■^< 208 KXFKDITION TO TIIK organic remains were obscrve«l in the sandstone, or in the limestone which is beneath it ; bnt no doubt can exist that they may contain some, and that tlie limestone probably contains many. Proceeding towards the Wisconsan, the country pre- sents an alternation of rolling and undulated prairie, interspersed with hills composed of either one or the other of these rocks. The sandstone is found in mo«t places to be covered with thin flattened fragments of a stone, differing in its nature and texture from the character of the other rocks, whether of limestone or sandstone. These fragments are generally observed to vary from three to twelve inchc's in length, from two to eight in breadth, and from one quarter to one inch in thickness j they present appearances of having been weathered, but not of having been rolled j they are very abundant, and we could account for them in no other way than by admitting that they were Ihe remains, probably the harder parts of a stratum that had atone time covered the sandstone, but that had disappeared almost entirely, leaving only these fragments to atte«!t its former existence and situation. On examining these fragments with care, we found them to be very uniform in their characters ; their composition is in great measure calcareous, but from their greater hardness wc consider it as partly siliceous; they arc replete with organic remains ; these are principally re- ferrible to the Productus, Terebratula, &c. We saw none but what belonged to bivalves. The existence of these fragments was observed upon many elevations, over a considerable extent of country, while in the val- lies no trace of them could be seen. Generalizing the observations made during the three last days of our \\ nc, or in ubt can iinestone [itry pre- prairie, iG or the in mo?t merits of from the ?stone or >serve(l to m two to tc inch in nng been y are very no other I remains, ad at one sappeared to attest examining em to be position is ir greater they arc cipally re- We saw existence levationis, lin the val- .lizing the ys of our SOURCK OF ST. PETKIi S RIVUK. •i(H) journey previous to our arrival on the Mississippi, we are led to admit that there are, or rather that there were formerlvj two distinct formations of limestone in this country, and that they were separated by a thick stratum of sandstone ; of these two limestone forma- tions, the older one, which we have already described with minuteness, we have been induced to consider as coeval with, or analogous to, the magnesian limestone of England. The superior formation is distinguished by the circumstance of its containing harder fragments or nodules of limestone, which alone remain to establish the fact of its former existence ; that it contained no horn- stone or flinty quartz, as observed in the former, we are led to believe, because had they existed they must necessarily have resisted decomposition as well or better than the calcareous nodules which are now found alone. The much greater abundance of shells in these nodules, and the total absence of the Madreporites appear to us to be very characteristic distinctions between these and the subjacent limestone, though, perhaps, too much weight ought not to be assigned to the absence of the Madreporites, as these from their loose and more porous texture may have been unable to resist the decomposing causes which appear to have affected this formation. In some places a limestone bed was observed upon the sandstone, but these depositions were so partial, and, in all cases, the ground was so much overgrown with bushes, that we were unable to examine their characters with any degree of minuteness. This striking differ- ence, however, we observed, and we are led to consider it as constant, that the inferior limestone, whenever it ap- pears exposed, is covered with small scales or fragments of the hornstone nodules whose existence 1ms already VOL. I. p .1 ii-p r- 210 KXPKDITFO.N TO THK been alludeil to, while none of the flat, calcareous fragments, abounding in shells, are found upon it; whereas these were uniformly observed to the exclusion of the scales of hornstone upon the surface of the cal- careous stratum that is over the sandstone. If con- trary to the opinion which we have been led to adopt, the limestone be supposed to constitute but one forma- tion, whetlier above or below the sandstone ; then will we ask, whence come these flattened fragments, ob- served upon the sandstone? If from the remains of a more solid stratum in the limestone itself, why, let us again ask, arc not these likewise observed upon the inferior limestone itself ? Why is not the hornstone, which appears to characterize the lower limestone, also observed upon the sandstone ? We might further ask, if the limestone above and below the sandstone bed be the same, ought we not to find signs of calcareous beds subordinate to the sandstone, and should we not have a right to expect an interposition of limestone in the immense bed of sandstone which, as we have pre- viously stated, is often one hundred feet in thickness ? Yet this we never observed to be the case. If an alternation of sandstone and limestone strata be- longing to the same formation were indicated by the characters previously alluded to, should we not be enti- tled to expect that the fragments and detritus of both should be found together? Yet in the valleys of the sandstone country, and particularly in the beautiful and romantic one which rested upon the limestone, and was enclosed by sandstone hills, we observed no fragments of the former rock, and but a few large blocks of sand- stone which had evidently fallen of late from the sides of the valley. While travelling on the hills we observed ■1- .^j I '• SOORCE OK SI', PKIBK S lllVhK. 211 that they were covered, in certain parts, with a thin stratum of fine sund, rei^ulting from a slight decomposi- tion of tlie roci<, as is observable in all sandstones of a loose texture. From what has been previously observed on the com- parative age of the limestone of the Wassemon with the formations of Europe, we readily discover that this sand- stone cannot be older than the variegated sandstone (Bunt sandstein) of Werner, and we have reason to con- sider it as an analogous formation. This of course cor- responds with the new red sandstone or red marl of En- glish geologists. In this formation in England the red marl certainly predominates j we are not, however, to be surprised, if in America we should find the marl Jil- raost deficient, and the sandstone in its place ; for it can- not be expected that the same uniformity, which exists between the primitive or general formations of the old and new continent, will be observed between the secon- dary or partial formations j if we can trace a general re- semblance, we have perhaps gone further than we were justified in expecting. With the variegated sandstones of Germany this formation presents a great analogy, and perhaps its most remarkable difference, though un- doubtedly a very trifling one in reality, is in the colour, which is seldom red, though it occasionally becomes so. This, among many other instances, proves the great de- sideratum that geologists should agree upon names more intelligible and less arbitrary than those which have been usually adopted; if the formations of Europe and America are to be compared, (and the daily pro- gress of science proves that even those of Asia and Africa will soon be sutficiently investigated to enable us td take them into consideration,) we ought to have better r 2 i f 1 .1 11 212 KXPhDinON TO THK names than those derived from the must fugitive uf all characters, that of colour. The limestone formation, the existence of which above the sandstone we tliink we have been enabled to esta- blish, appears to us from its mineralogical as well as its geological characters, to connect itself with the Lias of England, and more particularly with that variety so well known in France and Germany under the name of Cat- caire coqiiillier (muschel kalk of Werner), which consti- tutes, as is well known, the upper bed of what was for- merly termed the Jura limestone ; and which is Inferior to the great oolitic series of England, of which it forms, as it were, the foundation. This oolitic series must not be considered as including the oolites which have been occasionally observed in the Jura limestone of the French, the zechstein of the Germans, and the magnesian lime- stone of England. In all these instances the oolite forms but a partial, and probably an accidental deposit in a limestone^ which is certainly inferior to the variegated (Bunt) sandstone, or new red sandstone formation. We have in this account of the western limestones studiously avoided, until this time, introducing the terms of Alpine and Jura limestones, and comparing them together, as it appears to us well established, that the greatest confu- sion has prevailed from the indiscriminate application of these words. The truth of this will be acknowledged by those who recollect, that by some geologists^ the two names have been used to indicate the same limestone (at least in certain cases), while some have removed al- most all the Alpine limestone into the transition forma- tions, and others have extended the Jura limestone to make it include the muschel kalk of Germany, which we have good grounds for considering as coeval with the rn SOURCE OK ST. PliTEIl S IllVKIl. 213 Lias of England. It will, doubtless, be observc to other Meneto- lotto fear, the Great II fought ncouraged )eration as ape with- wards led ox river, enemies, ition of a lis grand- the nation ated : for Ks. Their numbers have since considerably increased, as, according to his estimate, the nation now consists of upwards of a thousand warriors; in this number are included all the active able-bodied, and middle-aged part of the nation. This great accession to their numbers results, principally, from their system of adopting their prisoners of war. The real number of warriors of pure Sauk extraction, does not, in his opinion, exceed two hundred. The Fox nation, which appears to be very closely united with the Sauk, was at that time likewise much reduced : it is stated that, at one time, there were but three lodges of Fox Indians left: these reports arc probably in some re- spects exaggeratei , the inoro more is he iilling of a stances, he nmrder of bent upon uity which jioners, we f numbers e h-ist cen- wliere they that they uron, and y the way sent abode, atiou to be n-obably de- any former the Great eir ideas of lut, in their lediately re- plied, that in order to be entitled to this appellation, an Indian ought to be mild in his manners, atVubIc to all, and particularly so to his squaw. His hospitality ought'to be boundlesH ; his cabin, as well as all that he can procure, should be at the disposal of any one who visits him. Should he receive presents, he ought to divide them among the young nien of his tribe, reserving no share for himself. IJut what he chiefly considered as characteristic of a good man, was to be inihl and not quarrelsome when intoxicated. A good man shoidd keep as many wives as he can su|)port, for this will enable him to extend his hospitality more freely than if he have b«it one wife. IJeing asked whether by this he meant that an Indian should oiler his s(pjaw to strangers, as is practised by the Missouri nations, he replied that no man of any feeling could do such a thing ; he thought there vas no man so base as to be guilty of this. Adultery is strictly prohibited ; so also is an indiscriminate intercourse of sexes. No good man would encourage it, or partake in it ; for men were not made like dogs for promiscuous intercourse; but there are some women, whose passions are not con- trolled by reason, and these will always find men dis- posed to share in their shame : no good man would, however, do so. Neither would a virtuous man always put away his wife for adultery ; he ought to admonish and reprove her. Should she continue in her evil practices, then he will be justifiable in discarding, or punishing her. There are among the Sauks some men so base that they will throw off their male garments, assume those of females, and perform all the drudgery allotted to the latter sex, becoming real cintcdi. They are always held in contempt, though by some they arc y 2 2-2M KXHEDITION TO TIIK w \- pitied, as lubuuring iiihN'I'uii uiifurtuiiute dostiny wliicli they caiinut avoid, being siippused to be impelled to tliis course by a virion froiii the female spirit that re> sides in the moon. Upon the subject of intoxication, Wennebea spoke with much feeling and philosophy. *' Intoxication," said he, " is a bad thing; the Indian has been seduced to it by the white man : when our forefathers were first offered liquor they declined it ; for ihey had seen its evil cflfects upon white men. At last two old men were bribed to taste it ; they liked it and took more ; they were then affected by it, their language became more voluble ; they were merry in their wine. Pleased with the experiment they re> peated it, and induced two others to join them ; thusi did the evil spread gradually. To drink a little is not improper, but to drink to intoxication is not right ; our ancestors have forbidden us to do it. You white men can take a little and refrain from more, while the red man follows but the impulse of his feelings ; if he tak(s a little, he requires more, and will have it if he can get at it in any way. You encourage us in this practice ; your agents, your traders, instead of withholding it, offer it to us, make us take it, and when we have had a little we lose all control over ourselves. We have always carry medi- cine bags about us, and that in these we place the highest confidence ; that we take them when we go to Wtir ; that we administer of their contents to our rela- tions when sick, &c. The great veneration in which we hohl them, arises from our deeming them indispensable to obtain success against our enemies. They have been transmitted to us bv our forefathers, who received then» at the hands of the Great Master of Life himself. We never venture upon a warlike undertaking luilcss, by their means, our chiefs should have previously had i,jHil' «'^' XI >lll 4!' J 'I I : i«'i ■^ i : 236 EXPKDITION TO TUB visions advising them to do so. Wiien we are near to our enemies, they impart to us the faculty of beholdiiiir in the heavens great fires passing from one cloud to another. If these fires be numerous, long-continued and extensive, it is a sure sign to us that in the part of the heavens where we behold them, there are enemies ; that they are powerful and numerous, and that we must avoid them. If, on the contrary, they be few, faint, and not frequent, then it is a token that our enemies arc weak, and that we may attack them with a certainty of success. These are not visions, but realities ; we do not dream that we see these fires, but we actually behold them in the heavens ; for this reason do we value our medicine bags so highly, that we would not part M'itli them while life endures. True, some of us did at one time, at the instigation of the Shawanese prophet (Tecumseh's brother), throw them away, but this proved to us the source of many heavy calamities, it brought on the death of all who parted with their bags. To this cause do we attribute the great mortality which we experienced during the late war against the Americans. He (the Shawanese prophet) came to us, and by arti- fice induced us to throw away our medicine, a circum- stance which we have since had cause to regret. His artifice was this ; he convened all our chiefs, and told them that he had been favoured with an interview with the Great Spirit, who had imparted to him extensive powers ; that he could recall the dead to life, and per- form many such astonishing deeds ; that he could restore youth to the aged, &c. that the medicine in our bags, which had been good in its time, had lost its efficacy ; that it had become vitiated through age : he added that, if we would throw away our medicines, he M' a circum- icine m our SOUilCK OF ST. PKTKR 8 RIVKR. 237 .vould perform in our presence, the miracles which he had spoken of, and that, if we followed him, he would ensure us a victory over our enemies. Induced by these promises and flattering expectations, many of our chiefs cast away their bags, a circumstance much to be re- gretted. It is true, that some who were then assembled challenged the Prophet to work the miracles which he had announced. There, said they, are the bodies of many who have been killed in battle; restore them to life, as thou sayest that thou canst do. But he evaded their challenge by saying to them, I cannot achieve these wonders for you, unless you previously comply with my request to throw away your medicine bags ; such of you as shall do so will, on your return, (ind your children or your friends, that have long since been dead, restored to life. Many were satisfied and did as he bid them ; but not one of them ever returned to his home, to see if his promises were fulfilled ; for they all fell in battle, on account, as we have always believed, of their having parted with their medicine bags. I," added Wennebea, " spoke to him plainly ; I told him he wished to impose upon us ; that our bags had not lost their virtue ; that still in the hour of need we applied to them, and gene- rally with success ; that we kept them in our villages, and that when our friends were sick, we applied to them for relief; and that if we were not successful in all cases, at least we were so in most instances. liut he was very angry at me, and his brother Tecumseh, who was near to us, laid his hand upon me and oflered to strike me, which he would have done had he not been prevented." Thus spoke Wennebea Namoeta, a Sauk Indian of the m p !,l! l1 238 KXPKDITION TO TIIK tribe of Pacoliamoa* (wliicli signifies Trout) ; his biotiior had succeeded to the dignity of chief, although he wns yoiuiger, being considered a man of more talent ; and so Wennebea himself admitted him to be. We regretted that we did not meet with this chief, we i^hould have liked to see what his abilities are ; he may be abettor M'arrior or a more impressive orator, but we ((ucjilion much whether he surpasses our guide in genuine phi« losophy. We have with regret shortened the com- nuniication of t'.ic observations made by this interesting nuui ; we shouhl have wished to give them entire. They breathe throughout a wisdom which would have done honour to the philosophers of old, and a morality of which no Chri««tian need have blushed. Indeed tliey speak strongly in favour of the doctrine, that wisdom and morality are the spontuneous growth of the human heart, the seeds of which have been implanted by the Great Creator himself; that civilization does not produce them; that the real benefit which results from it is, that, in some instances, it may curb the passions which svould otherwise impede their growth. The Indian appears to us to possess ideas of virtue and morality, which are fully as valuable as those that are supposed by some philosophers to be the exclusive appanage of civilization. 'J'rue, they are, perhaps, but too frequently checked in their grow'h by the uncontrolled sway which his evil propensiti ?> exercise over him ; propensities which, as we believe, have been unfortunately increased, by an indiserimiui'te intercourse with the most worthless of white men, who, to serve their own selfish ends, have not been ashamed to stitnulatc the Indian to deeds • PH-to-hA.niA-.'i. t. souRci: OF »r. pktkr s uivkr 2:^9 wliicli \u» own good sense would have prevented him from perpetrating. On tlie route from Chicago to Fort Crawforcl we saw but one deer, at which, liowever, we had no opportunity of shooting. We likewise observed but a single wolf, which was of the kind calleear, since their intercourse with white men, to have lost the sagacious foresight which previously distinguished them. It was usual with them, furinerly, to avoid killing the deer during the rutting sea^^on ; the does that were with young were in like manner always spared, except in eases of urgency; and the young fawns were not wantonly destroyed : but at pre- sent, the Indian seems to consider himself as a stranger in the land which his fathers held as their own ; he sees his properly daily exposed to the encroachments of white men, and therefore hunts down indiscrimi- nately every animal that he njeets with ; being doubtful whether he will be permitted to reap, the ensuing year, the fruits of his foresight during the present. -■ ^i'. i ' I I- 1, ft ,' • rr' 240 EXPKDITION TO THK and fearing lest lie may nut be !»utfere(i to hunt, undisturbed, upon his property fur another season. Tu this cause, and to the increase in tlieir numbers pro- duced by a long continued peace, we must attribute the scarcity of game at present observed. The popula- tion must, however, soon cease to increase if they do not betake themselves to agricultural pursuits, as the rapid diminution in the quantity of game will eventually deprive them of the means of subsistence. We are not to wonder that an Indian population, apparently so small as that which we know to exist here, should be comparatively large for the country to which it is restricted in its hunts, if we bear in mind the obser- vations of Little Turtle on the subject, <' You whites contrive to collect upon a small space a sure and plentiful supply of food. A white man gathers from a field, a few times bigger than his room, bread enough for a whole year. If he adds to this a small field of grass, he maintains beasts, which give him all the meat and clothes he wants, and all the rest of his tiino he may do what he pleases ; while zve must have a great deal of ground to live upon. A deer will serve us but a couple of days, and a single deer nuist have a great deal of ground to put him in good con- dition. If we kill two or three hundred a year, 'tis the same as to eat all the wood and grass of the land they live on, and that is a great deal."* Among the birds observed.. Mr. Say has recorded a single Red-headed Woodpecker,t together with the Ferruginous Thrush, J Towhee Bunting, § Song Spar- • Volncy, ut supra, p. 384. t Turdus rufus. + PicuR erytlirocephalus. § Emberiza erytliroptlialma. SOURCE OF ST. PKTBn S lUVER. 241 row,* Chi|)|)ini( Sparrow,! Burtram's Sandpiper,^ Ruvcn,^ Rcedbird, and a Crow|| which was first heard near the VVisconsan. In the vegetable kinr(doni, the same gentleman ob- served that the Gerareh'ia was found, about the 15th, with its petals nearly of fnll length, but that afterwards they were found much shorter. A beautif(d specimen of C'assid.i was likewise seen : its elytra were of a fine ^rreen colour, tinged with golden ; and the exterior niargius were pale. * Friiigillti inclotliii. [ Triiiga Hartruinia. H C'orvuBcorone f Fringula sucialis. § Curvus corex. .1 ^' HI t \ ^ ' VOL. I. P •■■; V I \i ' ; 242 fcXI'tDITION TO TIIK ( lIAPriCR VI. Prairie tin Vhieu. Indian remains. Division of ihc partt/. Mississippi. JJarola vilUiffes. Fort St. An- tliont/. Falls. River St, Peter. OUIl arrival at Prairie (!u Cliieii, at a late hour in llir evening of the lOtli of June, |)revente(l us from ohtainini- a sight of the Missistiippi ; hut early the next morning we hastened to take a view of this important river, nhieh, from its extent, the number and size of its tribu- taries, the importance of the country which it drains, will bear a comparison with any known stream of the old or new continent. It is one of those grand natural ob- jects, the sight of which forms an era in one's life. To liave been the first civilized man who viewed tlic mighty Mississippi, was, as we conceive, by no means an undesirable distinction. And, however diilicult it may be, at this distant epoch, to ascertain Mho that man may hsive been, the inquiry is not the less interest- ing or useful in the history of liuman discoveries. So far as our reading extends at present, injustice is done *o Alvar Nuilez Cabeza de Vaca. He traversed North America from U'.spiritu Santo (Tampa) Bay, to New Ga- licia, between the years 1528 and 1637, and consequently must have seen this river, having crossed it, above or at its mouth ; though in his " Natifragios " he has given neither name nor description by which it can be iden- tified ; his curiosity was repressed by (xtrenie suflTeritiii. SOrRCK OK ST. PKTKH > Kl\ KU. '2i:\ and tho little hopr lie etitertuiiied of again seeing liis puunli'v. Ileiiiando de Soto arrived at its hanks heluw the Arkan^^aw in 15 U, and found it there called *' Clin- eagna ;" hii> hody was thrown into it the next year, near the niunth of Red river. If we mistake not, two vessold under the eonnnand of Wood, an Knglishnuui, entered its mouth ahout 1G:)G.* Father Marquette and the Sieur .Joliet, to whom the di>eovery has been gene- rally attributed, did not see the Mississippi before l(>".'J. They entered from the VVisconsau and descended to the Arkansaw. Coxe, whose object i« to prove that the En- glish discoveries on the i\ii>stssi|)pi intervened between those of the Spaniards and the I-'rench, tells us,t that, among the savages, for about half itscutu'se, it was called Meschacebe, afterwards Chucagua, Sassagoula, and Malabanchia. It is said that al Guachoya (probably an old place on the Mississi[)pi above Red river), it was called " Tanudiseu, in the country of Nilco, Tapatu ; and in Coya, Mico ; in the port or mouth, Hi."]; The French fir&t called it Colbert, then St. Louis river. The Spaniards had previously called it Rio Grande, Spi- rito Santo. At Prairie du Chien, the breadth of the river is esti- mated at one-half of u mile, including a long and nar- row island. Its current, though rapid compared with m ii * Wc have endeavoured, but in vain, to find our authority for this state- ment ; but it has entirely escaped our recollection. This is not, however, the same Colonel Wood of Virginia, whom Coxe mentions as having disco- vered several branohcs of the great rivers Ohio and Meschacebe.— (Coxe's Carolana, p. 120.) f Description of the English province of Carolana, by Daniel Coxe, Lon- don, ni\, p. 4. } N arrntive of do Soto's Invasion, ut suprn, p. 122. a 2 2H K\l'KI>nW)N ro TIIK * i that of many oilier r-trcam^, is fircMtlcMvhcn contrasted uilli that of the samr riv(M' h)\vcr (h>^^•|l ; it is only when it ha^ ht'(Mi swo'.lou by tho iMissouri and the Ohio, tiiat it ncjniiTs the cNtrt'ine ra|»i(hty which characterises it. Tlu! villaj^e of l^airio (in Cliicn is sitiiated four or five miles ahove (!ie month of the VV'isconsan, on a heanfiful prairie, whifl- extends aloni,' tlu^ eastern hank of the river lor abont ten miles in Iciiirth, and which is rmritcil to the ea«t hy a ranii^e r»f Pteep hilU, risini^ to a heii,dit ofahont fonr hundred atui thirty-five feet, and runninir paralhd with the of preci[)ices, ar- ranL'ed on • above another, some of whi(di arc one hun- dred and one iuuidrcd and lilty feet hii;h. I^'om the t(i|) we hud a fine view of the two riNcr-, whi(di minirleil $oi ru K oi r. i'i.ri;ii s kin : is •J-li L'ontrasted tmly when Ohio, that L'tcriscs it. lur or live a i)i'antiriil aiik of the li is limitiil o a helLfht ul niiiiiinu: (li«laiice k( , tlie h\\\\)\ It llu'irljasc n the west )f the VVis- high. "It fonniKMriod )()sition well )()^t to com- hill iiiis no uiT n\tMcly a the margin , aiul rctaia water. 'Mk' to render the (U'striaii, e\- icciul bv tak- ,'er the sU)i)e. •ecipiccs, ai- re Olio hun- Trom the top lirh iniMsrlt'd tlieir water? at the lootr of this majestio hill."* The I'raific has retained its ohl Freiieli appellation, derived from an Indian who lorinerly resided there, aiwl \s as railed the Doi;'. 'i'he villau^e r;onsists,i'xelusivc rjfjjiores, ofahont twenty dv\ellini^hoiise«^, chieHy oli!, and i.iany of tliein in a state of decay ; ils popnlation may amoinit to «Mie hundred and tii'iy souls. It is not in as tiirivinij; a sj- niation as it lorinerly was. C!arver tells n-^, that when lie visited it, in I /<)(), it was "' a iari^e town containini^ about three hundred ftunilies ; tin* house ic adds, '' are well built aiVer the Indian manner, and pleasantly situated on a very rieh >oil, from whieii they raii^e every necessarv uf HIV in threat al)undanee. This town i- the jj^reat mart wlter(* ail thi> adjacent lnbe»-, and even those who inhabit the most remote branches of the Mississi|)pi^ annually assemble about the latter end of May, brini^ini^ with tluMU their furs to dispose of to the traders.")- "1 should hav(^ remarked. savs the same author that whatever Imiians jiappen to meet at La Prairie /cC hien, tlie great mart to whieii all who inhabit the adjacent country re«;ort, ihouiicli the nations to which they belong are at war with each other, yet they are obliged to re- strain their enmitv, and to forbear all ho^.lik' acts dur- iiig their stay there. This regulation has long been e;<- taldished among them for tiieir mutual convenieiu'e ; as, without it, no trade could be carried (>ii."t The fort, which is one of the rudest and least comfort- able that we have seen, is situated about one liimdred and fifty yards from the river, lis site is low and nn- |)leasant, asa slough extends to tlie south of it. The riv r • %riiii>r I.oh^'h MS. 1H|7. N,. I. y.Hh ^ ("aivpr'n Tnivpls. I'liiliiiU'l|)l)iH. l7!Mi, p. 'd. I Idem, p ()*?. ¥^ M 1! 24(5 F.Xl'KDITION TO TIIM •i| bank is lien; so low uiid flat, that, by a swell wliicli took place in the Mi!«sissi|)|>i, the suinincr before we visiitoM it, the water rose u|)oii the prairie, and entered the pa- rade, which it covered to the depth of three or four feetj it penetrated into all the officers' and soldiers' quarters, so ad to render it necessary for the garrison to remove from the ^ort, and encamp upon the neighbouring heights, where they spent about a month. The waters having subsided, at the end of that time, they returned to their (piartcrs : the old men about the village say that such an inundation may be expectesition will doubtless soon be abandoned. One of the block- houses of the fort is situated upon a large mound, which appears to be artificial. This mound is so large, that it supported the wliole of the work at this place, previous to the capture of the fort by the British andlndians dur- ing the late war. It has been excavated ; but we have not heard that any bones, or other reuudns, were found in It. This is by no means the only mound found in the vici- nity of the l*rairie. 'i'here are very numerous remains of Indian works on the Wisconsan, near the Pelit Cap au Oris; Messrs. Say, Keating, and Seymour, went to ex- amine them. They found the bluirs which border upon the Wisconsan, about four miles above its mouth, covered SOUUCK UK ST. PETKK !> UlVKIt. 247 with mounds, parapets, &c. but no ])1an or system could be observed among them, neither could they trace any such tiling as a regular enclosure. Among these works, they saw an embankment, about eighty -five yards long, divided towards its middle by a sort of gateway, about tour yanls wide ; this parapet was elevated from three to four feet; it stood very near to the edge of the blul!', as did aiiiio almost all the other embankments which they tiaw. From this circnmstanee, they were led to consider them as raised for the protection of a party placed there, either for the defence of the bluff, or to command the passage of the river. For either of these objects, it must be acknowledged that the selection of the position wouhl be very advantageous. No connexion whatever was observed between the parapets and the mounds, except in one case, where a parapet xvas cut olf by a sort of gateway or sally-port, and a mound was placed in front of it, as it were, to command the gateway ; but instead of being inside, in the manner of a traverse, it was outside, and could have served no other purpose, that they could think of, but t(» allow some of the party to proceed a few steps in advance of the works, and reconnoitre the enemy ; though it must be acknowledged, that the ene- my might, under cover of this mound, have approached, perhaps, without being perceived, or at least with the advantage of a breast-work. In one instance the works or parapets seemed to form a cross, of which three parts coidd be distinctly traced ; but these were sliort : this was upon a projecting point of the highland. The mounds, which the [jarty observed, were scattered with- out any apparent symmetry, over the wliole of the ridge of highland, which borders u|)on the river. They were very numert)us, and generally from six to eight feet high, H 1 ' ^ li V rt 248 KXl'KDrilON TO TIIK and tVoin eigiit to twelve in diameter. In one case a number of these, amounting' perhaps to twelve or fifteen were st • /: ill arrangeil in one line, parallel to the edye of the blutf, but at some distance from it. These are not the only works in this vicinity ; it ap- pears that the mounds and parapets extend not oidy aloni^ the Wiscongan, but upon the bluffs which run parallel to the Mississippi and limit the Prairie to the east. From the description which Mr. Say atid his companion^ gave to Major Long, of what they had seen, it appeared that these could not have been the same as those he ob- served in 1817. According to his MS. Journal of I8I7, (No. 2, fol. 22,) '* the remains of ancient works, con- structed probably for military purposes, were found more numerous and of greater extent, on the highlands, just above the mouth of the VVi?.consan, than any ol which a description has been made public, or that have as yet been discovered in the western country. There the parapets and mounds were found connected in one series of works ; whenever there was an angle in the principal lines, a mound of the largest size was erected at the angle ; the parapets were terminated by mounds at each extremity, and also at the gateways ; no ditch was observed on either side of the parapet. In many places the lines were composed of parapets and mounds in con- junction, the mounds being ai ranged along the parapets at their usual distance from each other, and operating as flank defences to the lines. "The remains were observed in the interior of the country in a direction towards Kickapoo creek ; they were situated for the most part on the ridges, but a few also in the valleys. Those on the ridges had the a|)pear- ance of having been intended to resist an attack on both SOUllCK OF ST. PKTEK S UIVbK. 249 sides, being tor the most part a single parupet of consider- able extent, crossed vt right angles by traverses, at the distance of twenty or thirty yards from each other ; and having no ditch npon either side. 'JMiosc in the valleys appeared to have been constructed, to command the pas- sage of the particular valleys in which they were situated. We saw no works which exhibited signs of having been complete enclosures, but the whole were in detached parts, &c." The following account of the nature of the country, back of the prairie, extending towards Kicka])oo creek, (a tributary of the Wisconsan, which empties itself on the north bank about twenty miles above its mouth,) is extracted from the same MS. " The country is divided into numerous hills, or ra- ther ridges, of various shapes and dimensions, but gene- rally of an equal altitude, by vc.lloys and ravines, some of which have fine streams of spring-water running through them. The hills are generally elevated from three hundrenlation. The beauty of the country, its favourable characters for hunting, its de- lightful situation on the banks of the river, must have made it a pleasant abode for Indians ; it is doubtful, or at least we have not been able to ascertain, to what nn- tion belonged the family of the Dog Indians, whose nani<> it bears. This family has become extinct ; the traditions concerning the fate of its members are very indistinct ; it is saiUL'ltCU OK ST. PKTBK S KIVKR. 251 t(l in killing a great number of the former ; that an inhabitant of the prairie, who was a very good \von)an, having received i«everal wounds (hiring the engagement^ cfU'cted her escape and withdrew to the Iiiils, where she was near perishing witii hunger ; that wliilc wandering iih)ng the banks of tliis stream, a kind spirit look pity of her, and converted her into this monument to which he, moreover, imparted the power of suddenly killing any Indian that approached near it. This power was exer- cised until the s|)irit, tired of the havoc which he had cummilled, ceased to display his vengeance any longer. Although the natives nuiy therefore, at present, a|)proach the statue with impunity still they hold it in fear and veneration, and none passes it without paying it the ho- mage of a sacrifice of tobacco, &c. There are at present but few Indians in the immediate vicinity of the fort, and none can give un account of the works which are so abundantly scattered over the country. They sjiy that the only means by which they (!un account for them is to su|)pose that the country was probably inhabited, at a period anterior to the most remote traditions, by u race of white men, similar to those of European origin, and that they were cut ott'by their forefathers. This supposition is grounded upon the circumstance of their having found human bones buried in the earth at a much greater depth than that at which they are accustomed to inter their dead ; and in graves which difter from theirs, inasmuch as they are unaccompanied by instruments of any kind, whereas they never omit rrt5.? (?) and other implements differing from those in common use among the present Indianj*, have like- ■.I u> IP ti i m 'I: '[! 252 KXIMiDIIION TO THE ' i wise been foniid under the surliicc of the t,'rouiMl. TIh' Ibrtifieations ai»j)ear to them likenise to he a proot' ot the correetiicss of t'leir opinion, as none of the huHaiK are in the habit of eonstructini|f works ol a siinihu* eha- raetcr, and as indeed they are iinacqiunnted with the utility of them. " Mr. Brisbois, who lias been for a K)ni,' rime a resi- dent of Prairie du Chien, informed me that he saw the skeletons of cic^ht [)erson«i, that were found, in dii(t;iii, retiu'ued to his rcmiinent without accident. Our pariy was here reinforced by :in escort, consistintc of ii cor()oral and nine men, un(k>r the command of first Lieutenant Martin Scott, of the 5th ree^t. United States* Infantry, who was selected to command the quurd. Maior Lone: secured the services of a half-hreed inter- preter, hy name Au:,nistin Kotpic. The ol)ject in taking this man. was toalFord to the i,'entleMK'n, charged with the colli ctin^ of the Indian niiornuition, an opportunity of acfjuiring trom him uti insight into the nuuuiers and ciistonis of ilie IJacota Indians, previous to the party's Tl lev were ticw travellinfi: ibtn»»ig!> their counrry. ever, very iimkIi di-^appointed in the character of this man, who enjovs, \\\ the c.^untiy, a mueli higher repu- tation for intelli'rence ani ohstrvation, ihuu they were led to ascribe to liltii. and as tlr.> iuformatiotj \\ hich he contributed was but trifling, it has hciU thought [>ro[)er loeinhodv it witi> that resultitiir tVom uersonal ol>cr- vations, and troin conversations wi(h the mlerpreters who .'>ul)se(piently accompanied the cNpediiiou. With I pi' m ( i h. ' t. IV $54 KXI'KDITION TO TIIK a view to proceeil, with as much spoe*! as possible to Fort St. Anthony, where the hist preparations were to he made, Major Long divided the parly here, and travelled by land with Mr. Colhoun ; while the other gentlemcn ascentJltC;K OF ST. PETUU S lUVKK. 255 c'limstaiicc can only be nccounted tor upon the sup- position, that ilic wutci' oscupcs through the nmntM'ous sinks observed in the ground. The forest, traversed by the party, consisted principally of oak, bass wood, u.*b, elm, white walnut, sugar tree, maple, birch, aspen, with a thick undergrowth of ha/.cl, hickory, &c. In the botton^^ the wild rice, horsetail, may-apple, &c. were found. The eye is charmed by the abundance of wild roses which are strewed over the country, and the pahtte is not less delighte I ■ ..1^ 35S KXPKUITION TO THV of considerable distinction. In his language (Dacota), his name signifies the red leaf. A number of young men, fantastically decorated with many and variously coloured feathers, and their faces as oddly painted, ad- vanced to greet the party. One of them, the son of the chief, was remarkable for the gaudiness and display of his dress, which, from its showy appearance, imparted to him a character of foppishness. In his hair he wore two or three soldiers' plumes ; his moccasins of stain(;d buck-skin were tastefully puckered at the toes, an■'■ ■ m I' i! i :\ I f i , fit M.A. ,] I'll i ; ' i 270 KXPKDITION TO THB 1 i 1 1 1^ 1 * i .'.i i ■ i 1 ;i^ - 8 !■ ■ : ■ i 1 ■^;i: , I ■; fl sions, tsuch as how d'ye do, good by, &c. completed his whole stock of English words. This man's name bears a striking analogy to that of the principal chief of the Issati or Nadouessis, whom Hennepin met on the Missis- sippi, and whom he calls '' Onasicoud^ (that is to say, the Plerc'd Pine"). ^ He accompanied Major Long on part of his journey in 1817) but scarcely recollected the circumstance, being at present very old. These Indians were much pleased with the sight of our travelling map; they displayed great intelligence on the occasion, under- standing it immediately; tracing several rivers with their fingers ; mentioning their names ; pointing to the por- tages, &c. Wazekota laid his finger upon the Falls of St. Anthony, which he called Hahawotepa.f They ap- peared quite surprised to find that so large a district of country could be represented on so small a compass, and at the same time be so distinct. The magnetic needle and the mercury likewise attracted their notice ; they expressed much surprise on observing that iron floated upon this fluid with the same buoyancy that cork would upon water. They considered all these things as mysterious. Three Menomone Indians were here on a visit, having just returned from the St. Peter, where they had been hunting. It is supposed that sixty or seventy warriors of their nation will unite with Redwing's band, although the principal of the three, a fine looking stout man, thought proper to apologize for this band, saying to us, that the Sioux were hogs and beggars, destitute of food, and ignorant of the duties of hospitality ; but that when • Father Hennepin's Works, ut supra. London, 1698i p. 217, and Rela- tions de la Louisianne, &c. p. 292. t Hih2w&«ip(t. •OURCK OF ST. PJtTliR S RIVRR. 271 217, and Rela- we should arrive among the Chippewas, we should be re- ceived as strangers should bej subsequent experience has by no means satisfied us of the superiority of the Chippewas over the Dacotus. The complexion of these Menomones was lighter than that of any Indians we saw on the journey ; one of them spoke French j the princi- pal one had abundance of wampum about his neck, to- gether with a necklace of cowries (Cypraea moneta). We afterwards learned from the Indian agent at St. Anthony, that this is an eminent war leader, and that, when his party unites with Redwing's, be will be recog- nized as the principal war chief. This Menomone told us, that the tumuli observed behind the village were ar- tificial, and ancient cemeteries. Tommo, and the Sioux, whom we consulted on the subject, all considered them as natural elevations. As they do not bury their dead, but dispose of them on scaffolds, they seem to be unac- quainted with the ancient practice of interring. After a very interesting visit to this village, the gentle- men again separated. Major Long's party, having been provided with a portion of the boat's provisions, which were becoming scanty, continued their journey by land that afternoon, and reached Fort St. Anthony the next even- ing without meeting with any accident. The route from the Indian village was off from the river, it was rolling, less hilly than had been previously travelled ; the tumuli increased in number, exceeding in abundance any that the party had ever seen before ; at times upwards of one hundred of them were in view. A stream about thirteen yards wide, which they crossed a short time after leaving the village, is called by the Indians Eamozindata*^ pi: .1 ■ '1 I pi il i 272 EXPEDITION TO THE (High rock), from a white pyramidal rock which rises to a considerable height near this stream, a few miles above the place where they crossed it. Being aware of its existence, and knowing that it would not lengthen the journey much, they were anxious to pass near it ; but, whether from superstitious motives or not, Tom mo seemed unwilling to guide them in that direction. This man was not one of the pleasantest that the party could have had to accompany them ; although he was selected as one of the best in the vicinity of Prairie du Chien, he was not agreeable. He was a listless, indifferent kind of man ; an incessant smoker ; his pipe, which was con- nected with his tomahawk, was in constant use ; it was made in the form of a shingling hatchet. The part which corresponded with the hammer was hollowed out for the bowl, and the handle was perforated so as to serve as the stem of the pipe : he adverted to the pipe as the Indian's only solace iu hunger. This man had a curious specific when unwell ; it was to climb a tree, cut the top so that it would bend, and then let himself drop down from it to the ground. The first boulders which had been seen from Rock river were observed by Mr. Colhoun, at about seven miles from Fort St. Anthony ; they consisted of granite. A very great change in the country above Lake Pepin was visible ; the bluffs were not so high, they were more frequently interrupted, and gave a new character to the scenery of the river. The distance by land from Prairie du Chien to the St. Peter is two hundred and eleven miles ; it was travelled in eight days, hence at an average of twenty-six and a half miles per day. This may be considered as the first sec- tion of our journey ; the whole distance from the Phila- SOURCK OK ST. PETKR S RIVKR. 273 delphia to this place, was ueai* thirteen hundred miles, which were travelled in sixty four days, stoppages in- cluded. This atfords an average of twenty miles per day. Having followed Major Long's division from the Prairie to this place, we shall take a hasty glance at the ohserva- tions made hy the other division, (hiring their progress up the river. This division consisted of Messrs. Say, Keating, and Seymour, with Koque (the interpreter). The hoat was manned by the corporal and eight soldiers, under the command of Lieutenant Scott. They were provided with an eight-oar barge with a sail, or rather their tent- fly^ which was used as a substitute for one. After part- ing with Major Long, on the west bank of the river, the barge proceeded up the Mississippi, but had not been long on its course before symptoms of misconduct broke out among the men ; and Mr. Scott then discovered that, while the whole party were conversing with Major Long, on the river bank, the men had broached the keg of li- quor, and helped themselves to its contents so bountifully as to be soon affected by it. As soon as they were heated by the exercise of rowing, the effects of the whiskey be- came but too evident. They lost all respect for their officer, and but for the firm stand which he took upon the occasion, a mutiny would inevitably have broken out; but, having called for his pistols and loaded them in their presence, he assured them that the first man who attempted a mutiny must do it at the risk of his life ; the crew being, however, too much affected by the liquor to be able to stem the strong current of the Mississippi, the boat was ordered to the shore, and the party lay by for a 'iew hours. VOL. I. T ■if- #fi 1' ' ii if li l\ 1 i 274 KXPKDITION TO THK In the evening the men being a little sobered, they re- sumed their journey, and encamped at night above the Painted Rock river, on the west bank of the Mississippi. The distance travelled that day did not exceed nine miles. The bluffs, which appear to be limestone (but we were at too great a distance to determine the fact with certainty), continue on both sides of the river, and rise to a considerable height. In one place the rock is very steep, and apparently inaccessible : the difficulty of the undertaking was, probably, the motive which induced the Indians to attempt to climb it ; and, having succeed- ed, they wished to perpetuate the recollection of their success, by painting upon it, with red colours, a few gro- tesque figures. It is said that, when these are effaced by time, or washed away by tlie rain, they are soon re- placed by other sketches, left there by the Indians, who are constantly passing up and down the river. The Painted Rock, like every frail attempt to distinguish, by artificial means, those things which nature, in her wild designing, has clothed with an uniform garb, seizes more powerfully upon the imagination of the trading voyager on our western streams, than the finest natural features of their splendid scenery ; it has become, there- fore, as it were, a landmark which assists the traveller in tracing his progress through these desert regions. The weather was fair and warm ; the wind slight but adverse, so that the sail was not hoisted. This first day's voyage on the Mississippi was delightful to those who had never been on that river before ; the magnificence of the scenery is such ; its characters differ so widely from those of the landscapes which we are accustomed to be- hold in our tame regions; its features are so bold, so wild, so majestic, that they impart new sensations to the mind : ■ i SOUIICK OF ST. PKTKR S IIIVRR. 275 the very rapidity of the stream, altliough it opposes our ascent, delights us ; it conveys such an idea of the exten* sive volume of water which this river ceaselessly rolls towards the ocean. The immense number of islands which it imbosoms, also contributes to the variety of the scenery, by presenting it constantly under a new aspect. On the 26th of June the wind was fair, and, starting early, the party proceeded up with considerable speed j the country and its scenery presenting pretty nearly the same characters as on the preceding day. In the course of the morning, they saw the appearance of a cavern in the rocks, and landed to explore it, but found it to be merely a small excavation of no account; this, how- ever, gave Mr. Keating an opportunity of observing that the bluff consisted of limestone, which, in the upper parts, became very loose, and assumed the characters of the asche, as mentioned in the preceding chapter. Fragments of a beautiful oolite were observed below it; they were loose and angular, some of them of a large size. No doubt could exist that they were in the immediate vicinity of their original sites, but the ne- ncssity of taking advantage of the fair wind, did not permit a search after the rock itself. On the left bank of the river, a small stream was observed to put in ; at its mouth two Menomone lodges were situated ; but they were closed, the inhabitants having, doubtless, gone on their summer-hunts. At some distance beyond this they passed, on the right bank, the mouth of the lawa, a river celebrated in Indian warfare as the scene of a bloody rencounter between the Sioux and Sauks. At forty-five miles from Fort Crawford there is a Winne-^ bago village of a few huts ; it was surrounded by hand- some corn-fields. At the mouth of Bad-Axe river, a T 2 h ■ !■ :r^i.. ■t'';p:S „f^<,V i'i n '276 KXPKDITION TO THK r If ■■'!-! i i m^^-'-' ■ . I- little beyond this, the purty exchanged u few words with two iVlenoiiione Indians who were descending in a canoe. Two remarkable capes or points were observed on the right bank of the Mississippi, below lawa river ; the lower one is designated by the name of Cape Puantj because, at a time when the Sioux and Winnebagocs {Piimits) were about to commence hostilities, a party of the latter set out on an cx])edition to invade the territory of the Sioux, and take them by surprise ; but these, being informed of the design, collected a superior force, and lay in ambush near this place, expecting the arrival of their enemies. As soon as the VVinnebagoes had landed, the Sioux sallied from their hiding places, pressed upon them as they lay collected in a small re- cess between the two capes, drove them into the river, and massacred the whole party. Garlic cape, just above this, strikes the voyager by the singularity of its appearance. In shape it represents a cone, cut by a vertical plane passing through its apex and base ; its height is about four hundred feet. The peculiarity of its appearance has made it a celebrated landmark on the Mississippi. Mr. Seymour, whose pencil was fre- quently engaged in sketching the beautiful features of the Mississippi, took a hasty view of this, as the boat passed near it. The valley iit, in this part, almost en- tirely filled by the river which laves the base of the bluffs on both sides. The river spreads, in some places, to the width of three or four miles ; its channel being very much interrupted by numberless islands, which render the navigation difficult. The bluffs are gene- rally from jour hundred to five hundred feet high, in- tersected with numerous ravines, and exhibiting signs of being the commencement of a hilly and broken inland country. SOURCE OF ST. FKIKR i» RIVKR. 277' One of the soldiers was this day very sick o( mania apotu. At times lie was perfectly insane, probably from having j^uddenly given up the use of strong liquor, in whicli he had previously indulged himself very freely. He continued sick during the rest of the voyage up the Mississippi. It was a horrid sight, in a sn)all boat, not more than thirty feet long, in which the party were mtich cramped for want of room, to behold a man affected with occasional fits of raving, and these of the most distres- sing kind : he made freqnent attempts to throw him- self overboard, which at last induced Mr. Scott to have him secured to the mast : he was very loquacious in his insanity, replying as he thought to the voice of his officers at Prairie du Chien, whom he fancied he heard calling him ; at times he became ironical, bursting into a wild and convulsive laughter, then launching out into profane and abusive language ; in fine, exhibiting all the workings of a disordered imagination. At one of the encampments, he broke his bonds and wandered near a swamp ; men were sent after him, who were out a long time before they overtook him : he was, for a while, given up for lost, and it was by the most fortunate chance that he was at last discovered, bv one of the men, wading througfi a swamp ; had he proceeded much further he must have perished in this fen. Mr. Say having administered to him the proper remedies, he gradually recovered, but finding it agreeable to ab- stain from work, feigned sickness, and his insanity was observed apparently increasing while the other symp- toms indicated a general improvement in his health ; suspecting that he was playing tlie old soldier, Mr. Say prescribed the use of an oar as a sudorific, by which he soon recovered the use of his lost senses. T 3 I ■■I ,1 :»' :-'i\ i' I ii ii'i Ii 1, i-':', ' M \ f .' r'M 'i ! M A..'L w M 278 KXI>KJ>rriON TO THU m V ti i The party liad encamped for tlie night on a prairie, between Raccoon and Bad- Axe rivers, bnt the mos- quitoes, which had iiitherto proved very tormentini,'-, becoming still more so, they determined, at eleven o'clock at night, to resume their journey. If a sleep- less night was to be spent, it was better to pass it in the boat, in the middle of the stream, where, at least, they would be relieved from the torment of the mos- cpiitoes. The breeze, which was favourable, allowed the barge to proceed with considerable rapidity for three hours, when the wind increased into a gale, which ren- dered the navigation dangerous. After having attempted, for a time, to continue to proceed, indespiteof the vio- lence of the storm, they were obliged at last to draw near the shore. A very heavy rain fell for several hours, to which they remained exposed in the boat, having no protection but that afforded them by their blankets. Notwithstanding the comfortless situation in which they found themselves, there was an irresistible interest in the scene. A storm is, at all times, one of the most splendid phenomena in nature ; but when experienced in the gloomy forests of the Mississippi, in the midst of a solitude, with no companions but a few fellow-sufferers, standing in a shivering attitude in a small boat, it receives an additional interest ; every Hash of lightning displays a scene which the painter would wish to fix upon the can- vass. The loud peals of thunder resound more forcibly when reverberated by the rocky bluffs, which border upon the river, and they contrast sublimely with the low but uninterrupted muttering of the rolling waters. About sunrise the storm ceased, the weather cleared up, the party resumed their journey, and continued it until breakfast time, when they were gratified to stop and SOURCE OK ST. PKTKIl S KIVKK. 279 make u tire to dry their clotliC!$ and repair the duiiigc occasioned by the storm. While ut their encamp- ment of the preceding evening, the attention of the party was suddenly roused by the faint and indistinct sonnds of a human voice, singing at a distance. It was soon evident that the words were English, and the air a familiar one to all the party ; after a while the noise of a paddle was distinctly heard, and by hailing they brought to the shore a canoe that was gliding down the river, with two discharged soldiers from Fort St. Anthony. 'J'he country which borders upon the river abounds in rattlesnakes, the party killed several during their journey to Lake Pepin, above which, it has been said, that they are never seen. In examining the head of this serpent, Mr. Say*s thumb was punctured by several of the small acute teeth, while it pressed upon the roof of the mouth ; and on laying open the vesicle of poison, a portion of the fluid flowed under the thumb, and found its way into one of the punctures, and although the quantity must have been very small, it gave rise to much pain and numbness in the part; it however soon subsided, producing but little swelling. The travelling on the 27th was not very rapid, owing to a head wind, but no time having been spent on shore, the party reached the Prairie de la Crosse in time to encamp there j this has been incorrectly called the Cross (crux) prairie. The name of this spot is derived from a game very much in favour among the Indians; it is played with a ball, and is probably not very unlike some of the games of the white men. This prairie being very level and fine, is admirably well calculated for this purpose; and was formerly much frequented by the Indians. There were a few remains of Imlian encamp- r 4 :'.: I| \'\ Vi5H •r Ei m Hi 280 exfkdhion to the I i^ I i '.1 ■:!' i 1' i V j ■ menls upon it, ot'one of whicli the party took pof^scs- sion, for tlie piirpotii* of slicltcriiii*^ llieiii«!iclve!« diiriii|^ the night. VVirhin a few yards of their encampment they discovered several graves, over whicli flags were hanging, indicating that the deceased had been men of some conseqnence. The |)arty proceeded, early the next morning, and passed the mouth of Black river, one of the most important tributaries of the Mississippi ; it is much resorted to for the piu'pose of obtaining tim- ber, as the forests, which grow upon its banks, are much finer than those on the Mississippi. Not only does it supply the Fort at Prairie du Chien, but even, as we are informed, much of the *' pine timber used at St. Louis is cut here."* Tiie voyagers have remarked that the number of islands, in this part of the Mississippi is so great, that there are but few spots where both banks of the river can be seen at the same time; this is, however, the case, at a short distance above the mouth, of Black river ; and one mile above this place the bluffs on both si he had mistaken a natural embankment. li'.i' SOIJRCK OF ST. PKTKR S RIVKK. 287 Although no gentleman of the party would be willing to ascribe to Carver a scrupulous adherence to truth, (personal observation having convinced them all of the many misrepresentations contained in his work), yet the description of these mounds appeared to one of them en- titled to more credit, because, as it is believed to be the first which was given by any traveller in America, it can- not be supposed to have been copied from others ; because the authority of Mr. Hart's testimony seems to be on that side of the question, as well as that of General Pike, who probably saw the spot mentioned by Carver, as we 6nd in his journal this observation: " Stopt at a prairie on the right bank descending, about nine miles below Lake Pepin ; went out- to view some hills, which had the appeariince of the old fortifications spoken of, but I will speak more fully of them hereafter."* Whether these were similar to those which he describes as having seen on the Prairie de la Crosse,t we have not been able to ascertain. But the strongest argument in favour of the existence of the fortifications described by Carver, is the circumstance of the many mounds and remains ob- served by Major Long and Mr. Colhoun, between Wapasha's village and the St. Peter, many of which were seen near the southern extremity of Lake Pepin. Al- though it does not appear that they met with any para- pets, yet as these were found near the Wisconsan, in connection with the mounds, there is reason to believe that they may likewise have been erected in this vicinity. Taking all these facts into consideration, Mr. Keating was led to the conclusion, that Carver had really seen • An account of Expeditions to the Source of the Mississippi, &c. by Major Z. M. Pike, Philadelphia, 1810, p. 98. t Idem, p. 18- '•: It. il ii' |i !!: 1! 't'M i ;j I'i ^ m I J * I ii i 288 KXFKDITJON TO THK the works which he has described, but thut they pru. bably were not at the Grand Encampment.* The party landed at anotlier place above this, which appeared to correspond with the description of the locaUty, but their search here was likewise unsuccessful. At a late hour in the afternoon they reached the southern extremity of J^ake Pepin, and proceeded until sunset, when the weather appearing stormy, they encamped upon a sandy point that projects about six miles above its southern ex- tremity. They had not been there many hours before a high northerly wind began to blow, which proved the pro- priety of their encamping there ; for the navigation of this lake is represented as very dangerous whenever the wind blows fresh. Le lac est petit j mats il est malin, was the reply of the interpreter to a question as to the propriety of continuing our course during the night. The next morning the weather was fair and calm, we resumed our journey through the lake, with great ease, until we came within about three miles of its upper extremity, when the wind increased ; we were soon satisfied, by our own t»bservation, that the slightest breath of M'ind will produce a heavy swell upon this lake. From this circumstance, it is usual with the voyagers on the river, to cross it, if possible, at night ; experience having satisfied them that it is gene- rally calmer then than during the day. The lake is about twenty-one miles long, and its breadth, which varies ffom one to three miles, may be averaged at about two and a half. Towards its southern extremity the valley widens considerably, from the circumstance that Chippe- • Vide Three Years' Travels through the Interior Part* of North America, Sic. by Captain Jonathan Carver, Philadelphia, 1796, p. 35. [I SOURCE OF ST. PUTRR's RIVBR. 289 wa river unites with the Mississippi at this place. That river is about five hundred yards wide at its mouth, and is navigable at all seasons of the year, by pirogues, for fifty miles ; and in time of freshes they can proceed much farther up. Lake Pepin, in most places, fills nearly the whole of the valley between the contiguous bluffs. In two spots, however, a handsome piece of meadow land is observed, which will offer great inducements for the establishment of farms. The general direction of the lake is from west-north-west to east-south-east. The scenery along its shores constrasts strongly with that of the river. Instead of the rapid current of the Mississippi winding round numberless islands^ some of which pre- sent well-wooded surf^ces^ while others are mere sand- bars ; the lake presents a smooth and sluggish expanse of water, uncheckered by a single island, and whose sur- face, at the time we first observed it, towards the close of the day, was unruffled ; nothing limited the view but the extent of the lake itself ; the majestic bluffs which enclose it extend in a more regular manner, and with a more uniform elevation than those along the river. When seen from the top of one of these eminences, the country is found very different from that in the vicinity of the mountain island passed on the 28th of June, for it is rather rolling than hilly ; and the quantity of timber upon it is comparatively small, especially to the west, where it assumes the general characters of an elevated prairie land. About half way up the lake, its eastern bank rises to a height of near four hundred and fifty feet, of which the first one hundred and fifty are formed by a perpendicular bluff, and the lower three hundred constitute a very abrupt and prtcipitous slope, which ex- tends from the base of the bluff to the edge of the water. i. ill imi VOL. I. U 290 KXPEDITION TO 1HB m ' fi i ij 1^'^i I. i This forms a point, projecting into the lake, and bounded by two small basins, each of which is the estuary of a brook that falls into the lake at this place. The wildness of the scenery is such, that even the voyager who has gazed with delight upon the high bluffs of the Mis- sissippi, is struck with uncommon interest on beholding this spot. There is in it what we meet with on no other point of the far-stretching valley of the Mississippi, a high projecting'point, a precipitous crag resting upon a steep bank, whose base is washed by a wide expanse of water, the calmness of which contrasts with the savage features of the landscape ; but this spot receives an addi- tional interest from the melancholy tale which is con- nected with it, and which casts a deep gloom over its brightest features. Cold and callous must be the heart of the voyager who can contemplate unmoved and uninter- ested the huge cliffs that enclose this lake, for •' Wild as the accents of lovers' farewell Are the hearts which they bear, and the tales which they tell." " There was a time," our guide said, as we passed near the base of the rock, " when this spot, which you now admire for its untenanted beauties, was tr.e scene of one of the most melancholy transactions that has ever occurred among the Indians. There was in the village of Keoxa, in the tribe of Wapasha, during the time that his father lived and ruled over them, a young Indian female, whose name was Winona, which signi- fies * the first-born.' She had conceived an attachment for a young hunter, who reciprocated it; they had fre- quently met, and agreed to an union, in which all their hopes centred ; but, on applying to her family, the hun- ter was surprised to find himself denied ; and his claims superseded by those of a warrior of distinction, who had SOURCB OF ST. PETRR S RIVKR. • 291 sued for her. The warrior was a general favourite with the nation ; he had acquired a name by the services which he had rendered to his village when attacked by the Chippewas ; yet, notwithstanding all the ardour with which he pressed his suit, and the countenance which he received from her parents and brothers, Winona per- sisted in preferring the hunter. To the usual commen- dations of her friends in favour of the warrior, she re- plied, that she had made choice of a man, who being a professed hunter, would spend his life with her, and se- cure to her comfort and subsistence j while the warrior would be constantly absent, intent upon martial exploits. Winona's expostulations were, however, of no avail, and her parents, having succeeded in driving away her lover, began to use harsh measures in order to compel her to unite with the man of their choice. To all her intrea- ties, that she should not be forced into an union so re- pugnant to her feelings, but rather be allowed to live a single life, they turned a deaf ear. Winona had at all times enjoyed a greater share in the affections of her fa- mily, and she had been indulged more than is usual with females among Indians. Being a favourite with her bro- thers, they expressed a wish that her consent to this union should be obtained by persuasive means, rather than that she should be compelled to it against her incli- nation. With a view to remove some of her objections, they took means to provide for her future maintenance, and presented to the warrior all that in their simple mode of living an Indian might covet. About that time a party was formed to ascend from the village to Lake Pepin, in order to lay in a store of the blue clay which is found upon its banks, and which is used by the Indians as a pigment. Winona and her friends were of the com - II 2 lii;^ Mit kS 'J > : t 'v ■' ! , I > 292 KXPKDITION TO THE pany. It was on the very day that they visited the lake that her brothers offered their presents to the warrior. Encouraged by these, he again addressed her, but with the same ill success. Vexed at what they deemed an nnjustifiable obstinacy on her part, her parents remon- strated in strong language, and even used threats to compel her into obedience. ** Well," said Winona, ** you will drive me to despair; I said I loved him not, I could not live with him ; I wished to remain a maiden, but you would not. You say you love me, that you are my father, my brothers, my relations: yet you have driven from me the only man with whom I wished to be united; you have compelled him to withdraw from the village; alone he now ranges through the forest, with no one to assist him, none to spread his blanket, none to build his lodge, none to wait on him ; yet was he the ni.'>n of my choice. Is this your love ? But even it appeari' that this is not enough, you would have me do more ; you would have me rejoice in his absence ; you wish me to unite with another man, with one whom I do not love, with whom I never can be happy. Since this is your love, let it be so; but soon you will have neither daughter, nor sister, nor relation, to torment with your false pro- fessions of affection." As she uttered these words she withdrew, and her parents, heedless of her complaints, resolved that that very day Winona should be united to the warrior. While all were engaged in busy prepara- tions for the festival, she wound her way slowly to the top of the hill. When she had reached the summit, she called out with a loud voice to her friends below ; she upbraided them for their cruelty to herself and her lover: " you," said she, "were not satisfied with opposing my union with the man whom I had chosen, you endea- i 1 u M itetl the lake the warrior, er, but with deemed an eiits remun- [1 threats tu lid Winona, ed him not, in a maiden, that you are 1 have driven ;o be united; the village ; :h no one to to build his i Ui.'.n of mv • earF that this J you would me to unite )t love, with is your love, ;r daughter, IV false pro- se words she complaints, be united to usy prepara- ilowly to the summit, she below; she nd her lover: opposing my you endea- •^ ^ '^ ■^ >: !■• ' 1 ■ \ '■' 11 !l! i V n I ^ (>.-. k '^^ik ]«!! 'IH. mi- f . j,t '«!* ^ I SOURCE or ST. PKTKK S RIVEH. 293 voured, by deceitful words, to make mefaitlilt'ss to him ; but when you found me resolved upon remaining single, you dared to threaten me ; you knew me not, if you thought that I could be terrified into obedience, you shall soon see how well I can defeat your designs." She then commenced to sing her dirge ; the light wind which blew at the time wafted the words towards the spot where her friends were ; they immediately rushed, some towards the summit of the hill to stop her, others to the foot of the precipice to receive her in their arms, while all, with tears in their eyes, entreated her to desist from her fatal purpose ; her father promised that no compulsive measures should be resorted to. But she was resolved, and as she concluded the words of her song, she threw herself from the precipice, and fell a lifeless corpse near her distressed friends. " Thus," added our guide, " has this spot acquired a melancholy celebrity; it is still called the Maiden's rock, and no In- dian passes near it without involuntarily casting his eye towards the giddy height, to contemplate the place, whence this unfortunate girl fell, a victim to thr> cruelty of her relentless parents." In the annals of civilized life, the sad tale of Winona's adventures has been but too often realized j and the evidences of the powerful influence of feelint,'- over women are too well known, to produce any sensation of surprise at their recurrence. But it is seldom tlmt the wild inhabitant of the forest is admitted to possess the same depth of feeling. Judging of both sexes from the instances which have been related of the apathy, assumed or real, of th( ndian warrior, too many are induced to believe, that the uncivilized condition of the savage deprives him of, or stifles in him, all passion ; u 3 i^t'¥ i ir :S!i ri^lliii vu I^t 294 EXPEDITION TO THE liii In 1 |:i ••r I but this is not the case. The fate of Winona has many parallels, which are not all equally well known. There were, in the circumstances of this case, several condi- tions which tended to impart to it a peculiar interest ; the maid was one who had been a favourite in her tribe ; the warrior, whom her parents had selected, was one of note j her untimely end was a public one— many were witnesses to it : it was impressive in the highest degree ; the romantic situation of the spot, which may be thought to have had some influence over the mind of a young and enthusiastic female, who found herself at that time " perplexed in the extreme," must have had a corresponding effect upon those who witnessed it. Wazecota, who was there at that time, though very young, appeared to have received an indelible impres- sion from it ; and when relating it to Major Long, in I8I7, the feelings and sensations of his youth seemed to be restored ; he lost the garrulity of age, but spoke in a manner which showed, that even the breast of the Indian warrior is not proof against the finest feelings of our nature. Had Winona, instead of taking the fatal leap, put an end to her existence in the midst of a forest, by suspending herself to a tree, as is generally practised by those Indian women whom distress impels to suicide, her fate would still have been unknown to us J a few of her friends might have wept over her untimely lot, but the traveller would have passed over the spot where she had ended her woes, without having his sympathies awakened, as they now are, by the re- cital of this terrible catastrophe. While the circum- stances of this tale were related to us, Mr. Seymour was engaged in sketching this interesting spot. We have introduced his view of it here, as it gives a correct idea of the scenery of the upper part ot SOURCB OF ST. PhTfcll S RIVER. 295 the Mississippi, which has never, we think, been ac- curately represented. We regretted that it was not possible to reduce, to the proper size, a fanciful deli- neation of the tragic event which we have related. Mr. Seymour painted one of this kind, in which the land- scape was represented with the most faithful accuracy, but which he animated and enlivened by the introduc- tion of a numerous party of Indians, in whom the characteristics of the Dacotas where strikingly delineat- ed. The unfortunate Winona was represented at the time when she was singing her dirge, and the various groups of Indians below indicated the corresponding effect upon the minds of the spectators. The first European that ever reached this lake was Father Hennepin, who saw it in the month of April, 1680, and who gives the following description of it : '' About thirty leagues above Black river we found the Lake of Tears, which we named so, because the savages, who took us, as it will be hereafter related, consulted in this place what they should do with their prisoners ; and those who were for murthering us, cryed all the night upon us, to oblige, by their tears, their companions to consent to our death. This Lake is formed by the Mes- chasipi, and may be seven leagues long and five broad. Its waters are almost standing, the stream being hardly perceptible in the middle." We have not been able to discover the origin of the name which the lake now bears; it is evidently a French name. While ascending the lake, we observed floating upon the surface a large fish which had been wounded with a harpoon or lance ; we caught it, and found it to be a Paddle-fish.* This fish is distinguished by a protuberance or rostrum, * Platirostra EdentuIa(Lesiiriii'). V'irlr Appendix 1. B. V 4 4 iA 296 KXPBDITION TO TIlS ,: i J! 1 ' i I I ■■■:■. ; f ■ k i J ' \ jiwM ! which extends from the nose about fourteen inches, and which, from its resemblance to the form of a paddle, has obtained for it the common appellation of paddle-fish. The Mississippi unites with the upper extremity of the lake by three channels, which are separated by islands. Upon one of these we landed, and found the pas- senger-pigeons to be very numerous, so that in a few minutes a number of them were killed. We like- wise saw here a rattlesnake, which disproves the asser- tion of some authors that this animal is not found above Lake Pepin. It is probable, however, that they are scarce above this place, as this was the last one seen by our .expedition. Mr. Schoolcraft states, that Governor Cass' expedition likewise met with it above Lake Pepin, and he even observes, that it exists as high on the Missis- sippi as the Fulls of St. Anthony. One of the guides, Joseph Reinville, whom we shall have occasion to men- tion hereafter, informed Mr. Colhoun that he had killed them on Big Stone Lake, which is near the head of the St. Peter. About four miles above the lake is the site of Red- wing's village, at the mouth of Cannon river. Imme- diately below the village there is a singular hill, which, from its form, which is supposed to resemble a barn, has been called the Grange ; it is about three quarters of a mile long, and four hundred feet high. Its accli- vity on the east or river side is very abrupt, on the west or prairie side it is quite vertical ; it stands insulated from the rest of the highlands. Immediately upon the highest point of the Grange, Major Long^ who ascended it in 1817) observed an artificial mound^ whose elevation above its base was about five feet. Having left the Redwing village early in the after- SOURC£ OF ST. PETER S RIVKR. 287 noon of July 1st, the party continued to ascend the nver ; the current had again become very strong ; they proceeded that evening to a place below the St. Croix river ; this stream enters the Aiississippi on its left bank ; at its mouth it is about one hundred yards wide, but immediately above it expands to a breadth of from three-fourths to two miles, and forms what is called the St. Croix Lake. Pike, in his journal, de- scribes the Mississippi, for a considerable distance below the St. Croix, as of a reddish appearance in shoal water, but black as ink in deep.* The red colour is owing to the sand seen at the bottom, which is of that hue ; the dark colour is no more than what is common to deep water that is moderately limpid. On the 2d of July we passed vvhat is termed the narrowest place on the Mississippi, below the Falls of St. Anthony; the river is here free from islands, and not more than one hundred or one hundred and twenty yards broad. Pikef states that his men rowed across in forty strokes of the oar : but Major Long found, in 1817} that his " boat crossed it, from a dead start, in sixteen strokes.";]: A great change in the scenery of the river is percepti- ble ; instead of running between two parallel walls of considerable altitude, the river there passes through a rolling prairie country, where the eye is greeted with the view of extensive undulated plains, instead of being astonished by the sight of a wild and gigantic scenery. At the St. Croix the bluffs seldom rise to two hundred feet above the water level. The valley, through which the river runs, is more uniform in its breadth, but the river is crooked and its channel impeded by sandbars ; * Pike, ut supra, p. 24. f Idem, ibid. I Major Long's MS., 117, folio 12. ^ ,1. ▼' h il M "m ii',1 m lit I H i 1 '£ m V.n- I 1 dli' n i-3 [| 298 EXPEDITION TO THB and the current rapid, so that the progress of the boat was slow. The party landed, for a few minutes, to examine a stone which is held in high veneration by the Indians ; on account of the red pigment with which it is be- dawbed, it is generally called the painted stone. They remarked that this was the first boulder of pri- mitive rock which they had seen to the west of Rock river, and this place corresponds well with that at which these boulders were first observed by Mr. Col- honn while travelling by land. It is a fragment of sienite, which is about four and a half feet in diameter. It is not surprising that the Indians should have viewed this rock with some curiosity, and deemed it wonderful, considering that its characters differ so materially from those of the rocks which are found in the neighbourhood. A man who lives in a country where the highest hills are wholly formed of sandstone and secondary lime- stone, will necessarily be struck with the peculiar cha- racters of the first specimen of granite that comes under his notice, and it is not to be wondered at, that one who " sees God in all things," should have made of such a stone an object of worship. The Indians frequently offer presents to the Great Spirit near this stone; among the offerings of their superstition, the party found the feather of an eagle, two roots of the " Pomme de Prairie" (Psoralea esculenta, Nuttal), painted with vermilion ; a willow branch, whose stem was painted red, had been stuck into the ground on one side, &c. The gentlemen broke off a fragment of this idol, to add to the mineralogical collections, taking care, however, not to leave any chips, the sight of which would w^ound the feelings of the devotee, by convincing him that the object of his worship had been violated. The party SOUIlCli Uir ST. FKTKll S RIVER. 299 landed at a short distance above, to visit the cemetery of an Indian village, then in sight. The cemetery is on the banks of the river, but elevated above the water's level ; it exhibits several scaffolds, supporting coffins of the rudest form ; sometimes a trunk (purchased from a trader), at other times a blanket, or a roll of bark, conceals thebody of the deceased. There were, also, se- veral graves, in which are probably deposited the bones, after all the softer parts have been resolved into their elements by long exposure to the atmosphere. Re- turning to the boat, the party ascended and passed an Indian village, consisting of ten or twelve huts, situated at a handsome turn on the river, about ten miles below the mouth of the St. Peter ; the village is generally known by the name of the Petit Corbeau, or Little Raven, which was the appellation of the father and grandfather of the present chief He is called Chetan- wakoamane^ (the good sparrow hunter). The Indians designate this band by the name of Kapoja,f which implies that they are deemed lighter and more active than the rest of the nation. As the village was aban- doned for the season, we proceeded without stopping. The houses which we saw here were differently con- structed from those which we had previously observed. They are formed by upright flattened posts, implanted in the ground, without any interval, except here and there some small loopholes for defence; these posts support the roof, which presents a surface of bark. Before and behind each hut there is a scaffold, used for the purpose of drying maize, pumpkins, &c. The present chief is a good warrior, an artful, cunning man, remarkable among the Indians for his wit, and, as is • Che-tiin-wd-ki-Lmd-ne. + K^ipA'ja. .1 '! I; . 1 ." , k'i i i'! ':i i1 1>. W' ' [ Nil ■ t '' 1 1 |l « r'l ' It? ■ i' t u I ^ < 1 m \ r 300 EXPEDITION TO THE said, for Iiis courtesy to white men, endeavouring, as far as he can, in his intercourse with the latter, to imitate their manners. • Above this village, there is a cave which is much visited by voyagers j v.'e stopped to examine it, although it presents, in fact, but little to admire ; it is formed in the sandstone, and is, of course, destitute of those beautiful appearances which characterize the caverns in calcareous rock. It is the same which is described by Mr. Schoolcraft, whose name, as well as those of seve- ral of Governor Cass' party, we found carved on the rock. In his account of it, Mr. Schoolcraft states it to be the cavern that was visited by Carver, but adds that ** it appears to have undergone a considerable altera- tion since that period." It appears from Major Long's MS. of 1817j that there are two caves, both of which he visited : the lower one was Carver's ; it was in 1817 very much reduced in size from the dimensions given by Carver ; the opening into it was then so low, that the only way of entering it was by creeping in a pros- trate position. Our interpreter, who had accompanied Major Long, as a guide, told us that it was now closed up ; it was probably near the cemetery which we have mentioned. The cavern which we visited, and which Mr. Schoolcraft describes, is situated five miles above ; it was discovered in 1811, and is called the Fountain cave; there is a beautiful stream running through it, whose temperature, as observed by Major Long on the 16th of July, was 46° (F.) and by Mr. Schoolcraft, on the 2d of August, 47°. The temperature of the atmos- phere, the day that Major Long made his observation, was 89°. From these results, as well as from several others which we obtained, we have been led to adopt SOURCK OP ST. PKTEIl S lUVfiR. 301 about 46° as the average temperature of springs in this latitude, and in this district of country. ... , At a late hour in the night of the 2d of- July the boat entered the St. Peter, and proceeded up the river opposite to the fort ; but it being too late to approach the works, the gentlemen spent the night on the south bank of the river, preferring to lie out in the open air, rather than to share vi^ith a Frenchman and his Indian family the shelter of a hovel. The distance, by water, had always been estimated at about ninety leagues, or two hundred and seventy miles. In Mr. Schoolcraft's jour- nal it is estimated at two hundred and sixty-five miles. It was measured on the ice in February 1822, by Ser- geant Heckle, of the garrison, who reduced the distance to two hundred and twelve miles; his measurement was made by means of a perambulator of his own in- vention ; he is said to have made allowance for the crooked channel followed by voyagers ; from the time which we consumed in ascending, making a due allow- ance for the speed of the opposing current, we should have estimated the distance at two hundred and twenty miles. The time required for this journey varies from eight to twenty and twenty-five days, according to the wind ; for it is impossible to row against the current with a strong head- wind. Our boat made .the trip in seven days and a half, which was considered the short- est that had been known of at the fort. In 1817^ Major Long ascended in eight days to the falls, which are nine miles higher ; Pike was eighteen days in reaching the same spot. Mr. Scott, who returned to Prairie du Chien the next day after his arrival at the fort, reas- cended the river, completing his voyage to and from the m-^ ' it 302 EXPEDITION TO TUB Prairie in nine clays and a half, a speed hitherto un- known. Tlie average passage down the river is three days ; it has been performed in forty-eight hours. The streams that enter the Mississippi between the Wisconsan and the St. Peter are numerous, but for the most part unimportant. Those which alone deserve to be mentioned are, on the west side, the Cannon, Root, and lawa rivers ; on the east aide, the St. Croix, Chip- pewa, and Black rivers. Of these the St. Croix and Chippewa rise near some of the streams tributary to Lake Superior. It was the Chippewa river that Carver ascended after having visited the Falls of St. Anthony, and thence descending one of the neighbouring streams, probably the Montreal river, reached Lake Superior. The St. Croix rises near the head waters of the Bois Brul^, which also falls into the Luke ; there is a portage of two miles between these streams. This is one of the routes upon which most trade has been carried on. Lake St. Croix extends thirty miles, beyond which the river continues navigable for about twenty miles, when its navigation is said to be obstructed by a rapid ; but above this, the stream is a very pleasant one to travel, and sufficiently deep for loaded canoes. Game seems to be disappearing very rapidly from the face of the country. Buffaloes, of the largest size, were formerly found here; a few were still to be seen in 1817, on the river that bears their name, and that discharges itself into the Mississippi below Lake Pepin ; but since the establishment of the garrison at Fort St. Anthony they have all been destroyed or have removed further west. The party that travelled in the boats, saw abundance of pigeons, but, with the exception of these, :i'.'. SOURCE OK ST. I'KTKIl S KIVKR. 303 no other kind of game ; the only animal observed be- sides these was the rattlesnake (Crotalus horridus), of which they killed four or five. The land party, although provided with an excellent hunter, killed but a few pigeons; some of them saw a large herd of elks. Game will be judged to be very scarce where two parties, travelling by land and by water^ can kill but two or three dozen of birds upon a distance of upwards of two hundred miles. The river abounds in turtles (Testudo [Trionyx] ferox, Linn., and T. [Emys] geographica, Lesueur*), at least judging from the great number of eggs which our men picked up in the sand ; it appears that the animal deposits her eggs on 'the sand-islands, which abound in the river, generally at a distance from the water, she covers them up with sand, and abandons them ; the heat of the sun supplies the place of incubation. The men collected them in great number, and appeared to be very fond of them. The mineralogical observations were unfortunately prevented by the circumstances under which the party travelled. Hastening towards the St. Peter, and appre- hensive lest a delay on shore might deprive them of the advantage of a fair wind, they landed near the bluffs but seldom, and never for any length of time. Their usual stoppages were on sandbars, and even there but for a short time ; they frequently travelled late at night, and sometimes even the whole night. Under these cir- cumstances, the only feature that could be observed was, that the country was formed of limestone and sandstone; that the former was, in one instance at least, oolitic and pulverulent ; that the sandstone was white, loosely ag- * Journal Acad, of Nat. Scieiu-cs, vol. i. p. 86, })1. .5. II ^ ^ V >\ I' ' I I .' 1 1 I'' il 304 KXPSDITION TO THB gregated, and horizontally stratified, but its connexion with the limestone was never determined ; the sandstone prevails above Lake Pepin, the limestone below it ; and probably to this we may attribute the difference ob- served in the characters of the stream and its banks after we had passed the lake. The sand appears to be chiefly formed by the detritus of the sandstone ; it not unfre- quently contains cornelians, agates, jaspers, &c., which present characters analogous to those observed on the Rhine below Oberstein, and in Scotland, where they are distinguished by the name of Scotch pebbles. They bear evident marks of having been washed away from u secondary trap formation. We shall have occasion to observe, at a future period, that a formation of this kind was traversed by the expedition. In one or two instances, while examining the sand with the microscope, a white transparent topaz was extracted from it ; it is probable that, had more time been taken on land, many would have been found. Although much rubbed, still the form of the prism of the topaz, with its dihedral summit, could be well made out. The party in the boat experienced much fatigue during this portion of the journey, from the want of rest at night, and the cramped situation in which they were in the boat ; but a stay of a few days at Fort St. Anthony refreshed them, and prepared them to resume their jour- ney. Fort St. Anthony is situated on the high bluff which rises on the right bank of the Mississippi, and the left of the St. Peter, at the confluence of the two streams. Al- though this spot had been visited and described by Pike in 1806, and subsequently by Major Long in 1817, who, in his report to the War Department, recommended the kOUIlCB OK ST. I'ETUH s IllVKIl. 305 establishment ot' a pennuiicnt post ut this place, it was not until the summer of 1819, that military works were commenced here. Col. Leavenworth, with part of the fifth regiment, arrived here in August, 1819, and all that has been done here was subse(|uent to this perioil. The fort is in the form of a hexagon, surrounded by a stone wall ; it stands on an elevated position which com- mands both rivers. The height of the half-moon battery, which fronts the river, is one hundred anil five feet above the level of the Mississippi. It is not, however, secure from attacks from all quarters, as a ])osition within ordi- nary cannon shot of it rises to a greater elevation; but, as long as we have to oppose a savage foe alone, no danger can be apprehended from this. If a resistance against a civilized enemy, provided with artillery, were required, possession might be taken of the other posi- tion, which would command the country to a considerable distance, and protect the present fort, which is in the best situation for a control of the two rivers. The garri-ion consists of five companies of the 5th in- fantry, under the command of Col. Snelling. The great activity which has been displayed by the officers and men, has already imparted to this place, situated as it is at an immense distance from civilization, many of the comforts of life. The quarters are well built, and com- fortable : those of the commanding officers are even elegant, and suitable for the principal military post to the north-west. There were, at the time we visited it, about two hundred and ten acres of land under cultiva- tion, of which one hundred were in wheat, sixty in maize, fifteen in oats, fourteen in potatoes, and twenty in gar- dens, which supply the table of the officers and meiv with an abundant supply of wholesome vegetables. VOL. I. X i I '■iVi 1 „! S W' ill i In 11 tiu :«)(i r,?:i'Ki)H U)N ro tiil ' i 1 1 • 1 . : / ■■ ■ : ■ y - 1 '■'■'!■!•■ ': ! On the 6th of July wo M'ulkcil to the falls of St. An- thony, which are situated nine miles, (along the course of the river, seven hy land) nhovc the fort. The first glimpse which wc cauglit of the fall was productive of diappointnicnt, because it yiehled but n partial view, but this was amply redeemed hy the prospect which we ob- tained of it when the whole fall opened itself before us. We then discovered that nothing could be more pic- turesque than this cascade. We had been t(dd that it appeared like a mere mill-dam, and we were apprehen- sive lest a fall of sixteen feet would lose all its beauty when extendetl upon a breadth of several hundred yards: but we soon observed that this washy no means the case. The irregular outline of the fall, by dividing its breadth, gives a more impressive character. An island, stretch- ing in the river both above and below the fall, separates it into two unequal parts, the eastern being two hundred and thirty yards wide, and the western three hundred and ten. The islan Hent angles, and presenting a great variety of shapes and shades ; each of these forms in itself a perfect cascade, but when taken together in one comprehensive view, they assume a beauty of which we could have scarcely deemed them susceptible. We have seen many falls, but few which present a wilder and more picturesque aspect than those of St. Anthony. The vegetation which grows around them is of a corresponding character. The thick growth upon the island, imparts to it a gloomy aspect^ I i SOURCP. OF 8T. PKTKIl S RIVRR. :m)7 cuntrnsting plcusiiigly with tlic bright surface of the watery sheet which reflects tlie sun in many differently coloured hues. The force of the current above the fall is very great ; but, as we were tohl that it could be forded, we determined to attempt to cross immediately above the fall. The place at which we forded was within u few yards of the edge of the rock ; and as we parsed we could not repress a feeling of apprehension at the danger which we were incurring. The water never, it is true, rose above two feet and a half, but the rock upon which we were treading was very smooth, and the force of the current such, that we were frequently exposed to slip; while at the same time we were con-^ vinced, that if we made but a single false step, we must inevitably perish, as it would have been impossible to re- gain a foothold had it once been lost. We crossed over to the island, and having gone round it to the eastern part of the fall, Messrs. Say and Colhoun forded over from this to the left bank of the river ; in this they expe- rienced even greater difliculty than before, as the water was deeper and its current more impetuous. Mr. Keat- ing attempted it, but found himself unable to accomplish it, being at the time considerably debilitated by a fever, which he had had for the two or three preceding days; finding himself alone upon the island, and being appre- hensive that his companions would not return in that di- rection, but would cross below the fall, he determined to regain the western bank ; in this he met with great difficulty. Twice he attempted to cross, but before he had reached the middle of the stream, finding his strength failing, he was compelled to return to the island; at last, the recollection that he would not recover it by a longer stay there, and the conviction that the waters X 2 t; - Ml ii I ' ■lit f '^1 :i08 KXPKUniON TO JUK If i oi the stream would probably continue to roll on undi- minished to the end of time, induced him to make a final effort to reach the shore, in which he succeeded. Some time after, Messrs. Say and Colhoun were seen returning with difficulty, and one of the stoutest of the soldiers M'cnt over and assisted them ; their strength was nearly exhausted at the time they reached the bank. However fatiguing this excursion may have been, it was very gra- tifying, as it afforded them a fine view of the fall under all its aspects. None of the party had seen a water-fall for some time past, and to this may probably be attri- buted the great pleasure which they derived from it ; for it bears no comparison to many which they subsequently met with. Concerning the height of the fall, and breadth of the river at this place, much incorrect information has been published. Hennepin, who was the first Euro- pean that visited it, states it to be fifty or sixty feet high. It was this traveller that gave it the name which it now bears, in honour of St. Anthony of Padua, whom he had taken for the protector of his discovery. He says of it, that it "indeed of itself is terrible, and hath some- thing very astonishing." This height is, by Carver, re- duced to about thirty feet; his strictures upon Henne- pin, whom he taxes with exaggeration, might with great propriety be retorted upon himself, and we feel strongly inclined to say of him, as he said of his predecessor, " the good father, I fear, too often had no other foundation for his accounts than report, or at least aslight inspection." Pike, who is more correct than any traveller, whose steps we have followed, states the perpendicular fall at sixteen and a half feetj^ Major Long measured it in rikc, ut supra, App. to Part 1< p> 51. 1. m sohhch: of ST. petuk s» kivkk. 309 1817 with a plumb lime, from the table rock from which the water was falling, and found it to be the $>ame. Mr, Colhoun measured it while we were there, with a rough water-level, and made it about fifteen feet. The differ- ence of a foot is trilling, and depends upon the place where the measurement was made ; but we cannot ac- count for the statement made by Mr. Schoolcraft, that the river has a perpendicular pitch of forty feet, and this so late as fourteen years after Pike's measurement. The same author states the breadth of the river, near the brink of the fall, to be two hundred and twenty-seven yards, while Pike found it to be six hundred and twenty- seven yards, which agrees tolerably well with a measure- ment made on the ice. Messrs. Say and Colhoun ob- tained an approximate admeasurement of five hundred and ninety-four yards; this resulted from a trigonome- trical calculation, the angles having been measured with a compass that was small and not nicely graduated, iind the base line having been obtained under unfavourable circumstances. Below the fall, the river contracts to about two hundred yards ; there is a considerable rapid both above and below j a portage of two hundred and sixty poles in length is usually made here j the whole fall, or difference of level between the place of disem- barking and reloading, is stated by Pike to be fifty-eight feet, which is probably very near the truth ; the whole fall to the foot of the rapids, which extend several miles down the river, may be estimated as not far short of one hundred feet. Two mills have been erected for the use of the garri- son, and a sergeant's guard is kept here at all times. On our return from the island, we recruited our strength by a copious and palatable meal, prepared for us by the x 3 \-''- ! N M 1 I! ' !' ■i .■ if- ii 310 KXl'KUiTION TO TllK i r ' ^ ^V'' ,i ■ - • j ' ^ old sergeant ; whether from the exercise of the day, or from its intrinsic merit, we know not, but the black bass (Chicia oenea, Lesneur),* of which we partook, appeared to us excellent. The vegetation consists of oak, liickory, walnut, pine, birch, linden, cotton-wood, &c. This beautiful spot in the Mississippi is not without a tale to hallow its scenery, and heighten the interest which, of itself, it is calculated to produce. To Waze- kota, the old Indian, whom we saw at Shakea's, we are indebted for the narration of the following transaction, to which his mother was an eye-witness. An Indian of the Dacota nation had united himself early in life to u youthful female, whose name was Ampota Sapa, which signities the dark day ; with her he lived happily for several years, apparently enjoying every comfort which the savage life can afford. Their union had been blessed with two children, on whom both parents doated with that depth of feeling which is unknown to sucli as have other treasures beside those that spring from nature. The man had acquired a reputation as a hunter, which drew round him many families, who were happy to place themselves under his protection, and avail them- selves of such part of his chase as he needed hot for the maintenance of his family. Desirous of strengthening their interest with him, some of them invited him to form a connexion with their family, observing, at the same time, that a man of his talent and importance re- quired more than one woman to wait upon the nume. rous guests whom his reputation would induce to visit • Juiiriial AcBil. Nat. St-i. vol. ii. p. iH4, [>\nU\ SOUUCK OV ST. 1>ETKH 8 KIVKR. 311 his lodge. They assurcii him that he wuiild soon be ac- knowledged as a chief, and that, in this case, a second wife was indispensable. Fired with the ambition of ob- taining high hononrs, heicsolved to increase his import- ance by an union with the daughter of an influential man of his tribe. He had accordingly taken a second wife without having ever mentioned the subject to his former companion. Being desirous to introduce his bride into his lodge in the manner which should be least oflensive to the mother of his children, for whom he still retained much regard, he introduced the subject in these words : " You know, ' said he, "that I love no woman so fondly as I doat upon you. With regret, have I seen you of late subjected to toils, which must be oppressive to you, and from which 1 would gladly relieve you, yet I know no other way of doing so than by associating to you in the liousehold duties one, who shall relieve you from the trouble of entertaining the nutuerous guests, whom my growing importance in the nation collects around me. I have, therefore, resolved upon taking another wife, but she shall always be subject to your control, as she will always rank in my aflections second to you." With the utmost anxiety, and the deepest concern, did his companion listen to this unexpected proposal. She ex- postulated in the kindest terms, entreated hiui with all the arguments which undisguised love and the purest conju- gal affection could suggest. She replied to all the objec- tions which his duplicity led him to raise. Desirous of winning her from her op|)osition, the Indian still con- cealed the secret of his union with another, while she re- doubled all her care to convince liiin that she was equal to the Uisk imposed upon her. When he again spoke on the sul»ject, she i)leaded all the endearments of their pas X 4 ! t si ' i; 1 ! ,; ii 1 . i ; ■in 1 ' i 1 ■ i , 'I •1 ( { • I) IJ 11 I m ii 312 KXFKOiTiON TO TUB life ; she spoke of his former fondness for her, of hi^ re- gard for her happiness, and that of their nnitual off- spring ; she bade him beware of the consequence of this fatal purpose of his. Finding her bent upon with- holding her consent to his plan, he informed her that all opposition on her part was unnecessary, as he had al- ready selected another partner ; and that if she could not see his new wife as a friend, she must receive her as a necessary incumbrance, for he had resolved that she should be an inmate in his house. Distressed at this in- formation, she watched her opportunity, stole away from the cabin with her infants, and fled to a distance where her father was. With him she remained until a party of Indians, with whom he lived, went up the Mississippi on a winter-hunt. In the spring as they were returning with their canoes loaded with peltries, they encamped near the falls. In the morning as they left it she lingered near the spot, then launched her light canoe, entered into it with her children, and paddled down the stream singing her death-song; too late did her friends per- ceive it: their attempts to prevent her from proceeding were of no avail j she was heard to sing, in a doleful voice, the past pleasures which she had enjoyed, while she was the undivided object of her husband's affection ; finally, her voice was drowned in the sound of the cata- ract, the current carried down her frail bark with an inconceivable rapidity ; it came to the edge of the pre- cipice, was seen for a moment enveloped with spray, but never after was a trace of the canoe or its passen- gers seen. Yet it is stated by the Indians that often in the morning a voice has been heard to sing a doleful ditty along the edge of the fall, and that it ever dwells upon the inconitancy of her husband. Nay, some assert SUUIICK OF ST. P£TBr's RIVUR. 313 that her spirit, has been seen wandering near the spot with her children wrapped to her bosom. Such are the tales or traditions which the Indians treasure up, and which they relate to the voyager, forcing a tear from the eyes of the most relentless. I ; 1, I' \V ,1 Bi My !-li \ 1 H ! ii ( i" ; HI -;||il 314 fiXPeUlTlON TO THK CHAPTER VII. deolosjif of the Mississippi. The Expedition ascends the St, Peter. Charnrtcrof the Country. Arrival at hake T ravers. THE country about the fort contains several other waterfalls, which are represented as worthy of being seen. One of them, which is but two miles and a half from the garrison, and on the road to St. Anthony's, is very interesting. It is known by the name of Brown's Fall, and is remarkable for the soft beauties which it presents. Essentially different from St. Anthony's, it appears as if all its native wildness had been removed by the hand of art. A small, but beautiful stream, about five yards wide, flows gently until it reaches the verge of a rock, from which it is precipitated to a depth of forty- three feet, presenting a beautiful parabolic sheet, which drops without the least deviation from the regular curve, and meets with no interruption from neighbouring rock, or other impediments, until it has reached its lower level, when it resumes its course without any other dif- ference, than that produced by the v^'hite foam which floats upon its surface. The spray, which this cascade emits, is very considerable, and when the rays of the sua shine upon it, produces a beautiful Iris : upon the sur- rounding vegetation the effect of this spray is distinct; it vivifies all the plants, imparts to them an intense green colour, and gives rise to a stouter growth than is ob- served upon the surrounding country. On the neigh- bouring rock the efl'ect is as characteristic, though of a destructive nature ; the spray striking against the rock, SOL HCK OK ST. PETIiR S KIVKK. 315 which is of a loose structure, has underiuined it iu a curved manner, so as to produce an excavation, similar in form to a Saxon arch, between the surface of the rocli and the sheet of water ; under this large arch we passed with no other inconvenience than that which arose from the spray. There is nothing sublime or awfully impres- sive in this cascade, but it has every feature that is re- quired to constitute beauty ; it is such a fall as the hand of opulence daily attempts to produce in the midst of those gardens upon which treasures have been lavished for the purpose of imitating nature ; with this difference, however, that these natural falls possess an easy grace, destitute of the stiffness which generally distinguishes the works of man from those of nature. The stream that exhi- bits this cascade falls into the Mississippi about two miles above the fort ; it issues from a lake situated a few miles above. A body of water, which is not represented upon any map that we know of, has been discovered in this vicinity within a few years, and has received the name of Lake Calhoun, in honour of the Secretary at War. Its dimensions are small. Another lake of a much larger size is said to have been discovered about thirty or forty miles to the north-west of the fort. Its size, which is variously stated, is by some supposed to be equal to that of Lake Champlain, which, however, from the nature of the country, and the knowledge which we have of the course of the rivers, appears scarcely possible. An object, which had appeared to us worthy of inquiry long before we visited the Indian country, was to ascer- tain whether the natives, who are accurate observers of every natural occurrence, had any tradition or recollec- tion of having witnessed the faH of meteoric stones. Since the fact of the fall of these heavy bodies from the f i^'i vim ■1 ;. i If i' I 1 ■ 1 1 ',1 ■ II i i 316 KXlMiDITION TO TUB atmosphere has been proved to the sntisfactiun of the most sceptical, numerous observations, recorded bv an- cient liistorians, have been collected to prove tiiat the occurrence is much more frequent than one wouhl at first be led to expect. On beiuj? informed of the exist- ence of a painted stone, which was held in great venera- tion by the Indians of the Mississippi, we entertained a hope that it might prove of this nature j we experienced, therefore, no slight degree of disappointment in finding it to be merely a boulder of sienite. We have, as we think, in our intercourse with the Indians, been able to trace an indistinct notion on the subject of meteorites. The following belief, which is common to several na- tions, but which principally prevails among the Sioux, appears to bear upon this point. They state, that when- ever a tree is affected by lightning, a stone of a black or brown colour may be found at its foot ; it is said to be very heavy, and to have been, in some cases, picked up while hot : several of our guides stated that they had seen them, and had owned some of them. These stones are held in some esteem, as being uncommon, but no supernatural or mysterious property is attached to them. We think it probable, from the respectable sources from which we received this report, that the Indians may have mistaken the phenomena which attend the fall of these aerolites for the effects of lightning, and having, in a kw instances, observed these stones and picked them up while still hot, been led to consider them as the usual at- tendants upon lightning. There seems to be reason to believe that an aerolite fell a few years since at St. An- thony ; but all attempts to find it proved fruitless.^ We * Colonel Snelling has kindly communicated to one of the party, the cir- cumstances SOUUtK OF SI. HKIKll J HIVKK. 317 have, with a view to obtain further information on the sub- ject, examined every stone which we observed as liaving been held in veneration by the huHans, but in no case have we been able to detect any meteoric appearance in tliem. ciiinstanoes observed on that occasion ; and we have his permission to insert the annexed letter on the subject. " Fort St. Anthony, Juti/ 8lh, 1823. " Sir, On the evening of September 20th, 1822, while crossing the parade of this post, from the store to my own quarters, I was startled by a brilliant light in tiic atmosphere, and looking up, saw a meteor passing in a direction nearly from north-west to south-east, and, as well as I could judge, at an angle of about fifty degrees with the horizon ; it appeared of inicommon magnitude, and passed so near me that I distinctly heard its sound, which resembled that of a signal rocket ; in its descent, my view of it was intercepted by the Commissary's store, but I heard it strike the ground, when it sounded like a spent shell, though much louder. I went immediately to the sentinel at the comer of the store, and asked him if he had seen any thing extraor- dinary ; he replied that a large ball of fire had passed very near him, and struck in the public garden which borders the river St. Peter ; he appeared much agitated ; after requesting him to mark the spot where it fell, I pro- ceeded to the other sentinels, whose accounts, as far as their stations allowed them to judge, agreed with his. The next morning I went early to the spot where the meteoric stone was supposed to Imve fallen, but (;ould not find it ; the ground is alluvial and much broken into holes or hollows. I continued my search until the breakfast hour ; but my ordinary avocations called off my attention, and I did not look for it again, which I have since regretted, as 1 think it might have been found by going to a greater depth in search of it. Tlie evening was uncommonly fine, and the concurring testimony of all the persons who saw it, with my own observation, I presume will be sufl[icient evidence that it was no illusion. " I have communicated this incident, as the question whether meteoric stones do or do not fall from the atmosphere, has recently excited much in- terest, and it may be deemed in some measure of importance in support of the affirmative proposition. " Respectfully, I am, Sir, your obedient servant, «• Wm. H. A'eiiHng, Esq. " J. SNELLING, Col. U. S. Army. " Extracts from Dr. Purcell's meteorological register, September 20, 1822. Thermometer at 7 A. M. 54°; at 2 P. U. 70°; at 9 P. M. 56°. Wind N. W. weather clear— light fresh wind." 11 ■ f: II 318 KXPKDITION TO TIIK 1 r 1 ( J i ! 1 ' ■ : li m ■I ■ i ■ . 1 in. P^< ^ \ '. (p!|i T 1 ! 1 ^^'t A singiilur appcirance wha observed in tlie henveDn, between tbree and four o'clock on tbe morning of the 9tb of July. The night had been stormy, much ruin had fallen, and frequent flashes of lightning hud been observed, but at that time ihe heavens presented to the north a vivid sheet of light ofa yellowish hue, and brighter than the most intense lightning we recollect witnessing. Although the light was constant, it was not a steudy one ; frequent coruscations were observed ; they were ruthcr of the nature of the beams, than of the arches de- scribed by Captain Franklin.* The light which it produced was such, that the reflection of it from the parade ground awoke us, though our windows opened to the south-west. The effect was the same as if the whole row of barracks had been on fire. This light continued without interruption for about fifteen mi> iiules ', during the first five minutes, the rain fell with an impetuosity which we do not recollect to have ever seen sur|)assed. It might be truly said to full in tor- rents : loud peals of thunder were occasionally heard. After the phenomena had continued about a quarter of an hour, the light vanished, and sunk into the dark gray usually observable of a misty morning before sunrise. The atmosphere appeared to be very highly charged with electric fluid, but we were unfortunately not pre- pared to observe the influence of this Aurora upon the magnet, &c. The heat had been great the day before ; the wind was high all night, and from the south- south-west. The bluff, upon which the fort is built, offers a good opportunity of observing the geological structure of • Narrative of a Journey to the Polar Sea, by John Franklin, Captain R. N. London, 1823, $:oriU K OF M'. PliTBrt K KIVKK. 319 ranklin, Captain tlic country. It consists of several strata, all disposed in oarallel and horizontal superposition. On the sur- face of the ground, blocks of limestone arc found, which appear to be tlie remains of a stratum that has, in a great measure, disapj)eared ; these are, in most cases, of a compact and earthy texture, destitute of any organic remains, exhibiting occasional specks of a crystalline nature which are observed to be calcareous ; as, notwith- standing their small volume, they prescntadistinct rhom- boidal cleavage. The first stratum which is observed is about eight feet thick ; it is formed of limestone, and pre- sents a very distinct slaty structure. The texture of the rock is compact, its fracture splintery and uneven : orga- nic remains abound in it. These are, as far as we saw, exclusively Product! ; they lie in the rock as thick as possi- ble ; a small vacant sjiace is generally observed between the inner and the outer casts of the shell. This is however generally filled up with a crystallization of calcareous spar ; the form of the crystals cannot be made out on account of their extreme tenuity. The colour of this limestone, as well as of the loose blocks found upon it, is a light grayish yellow. This stratum rests upon another calcareous bed, which diflFers from the preced- ing, in the total absence of organic remains, and in its colour, which is of a light blue. Its structnre is more compact, so is its fracture ; its horizontal stratification is distinct, but the stratum being thicker, it is better adapted for being employed in building. It produces, in fact, an excellent stone, which admits of being hewn, and which is the chief material used in the construction of the fort ; this bed is from fifteen to twentv feet thick. When examined with the microscope, the rock presents very general signs of crystallization ; its texture becomes 11 L 'I ill I ti '! ii ■ i ■ 1 -1 ii 'I ■ % m ■if, t i r If 320 KX1>KI)ITIUN TU TIIK U \ t m ^#iil I • i siibsaccaruidal, and veins of culcfipar, of uii incons'ulci*- nble thickness, traverse it in every direclion. There are also cavities in which crystals of carbonate of lime (the niboide f of Haiiy) arc distinctly seen. In this bed the workmen state that they find substances resem- bling their catfish (Silurus, Linn), and which they con- sider as petrifactions of the same; we saw nothing of the kind ; neither could they discover any at the time we were there. We at first, however, thought they had probably observed icthyolites, but a subsequent and more minute description of the objects observed by the workmen, satisfied both the naturalists, that they were probably not organic remains, but mere accidents of fracture, ovIusks natura'. Independent of the building- stone which it yields, this bed is likewise valuable, as producing the best lime of any found in the vicinily. Immediately under this bed of limestone, in parallel stra- tification, we observed the sandstone which constitutes the principal mass of the bluff, being about sixty feet in thickness. It is a very friable stone, and in some cases the grains, of which it is formed, are so loosely united, that it appears almost like sand. Every fragment, if examined with care, seems to be a regular crystal ; and we incline much to the opinion, that this sandstone must have been formed by a chemical precipitation, and not by mere mechanical deposition. The process of its formation may have been a very rapid one, such as is obtained in the manufacture of fine salt, and to this may be attributed the circumstance of its loose texture. The grain is very fine ; its colour is white, sometimes a little yellowish, in which case, it resembles in texture, colour, &c. the finer varieties of Muscovado sugar. The loose texture of the rock is probably the cause of its pre- »>UR(k UK !ir. PKTKR ^ HIVIK. 321 senting but few indications of stratification. The rock, wliich we have just described, rests upon a «laty limestone, which has n striped aspect; the stripes or zones are curved. This limestone appears to be very argillaceous, and is a little softer than the preceding ; its structure is quite earthy ; it effervesces strongly in nitric acid ; its colour is a light yellow : the thickness of this bed is about ten feet. Below this another stra- tum of limestone is found, which imbeds small black pebbles of quartz, and assumes, therefore, in a slight degree, the characters of a pudding stone or conglo- merate. Its grain is more crystalline than that of the preceding stratum. It is filled with small cavities, probably the result of a contraction during the con- solidation of the mass. Its colour varies from a bluish to a yellowish grey. This stratum is about seven feet thick. It rises but four feet above the level of the water, and the only rock visible under it, is another variety of limestone which differs from the preceding, inasmuch as its grain is much finer and its texture more earthy. It is only visible for four feet ; the bed of the river appears to be excavated, near the fort, in this stra- tum of limestone. Neither of these limestone forma- tions under the sandstone contain any traces of organic remains. If we consider the three inferior beds of lime- stone, as being modifications of the same formation, as we doubtless ought to do, then we shall find this bluff to be composed of three different formations ; a superior one of limestone, with abundant iinpressions of shells in one of its beds ; an intermediate one of sandstone ; and an inferior calcareous formation, without any organic remains. The latter certainly bears some resemblance to VOL. I. V V 1 1 : \ 1 ■ I ) ' 1 VI ' il''i ■ ' 1 322 KXPKDiriUN TO THK the limestone found on the VVassenion, though we arc- unwilling to pronounce upon their identity. The river runs upon a hed of sandy alluvium, result- ing from the destruction of the bluffs, but in many places the rock is laid bare. These observations upon the geology of the bluff upon which the fort is erected, correspond with those made at the Falls of St. Anthony, with this exception, that, at the latter phicCj our obser- vations are limited to the three superior st.'ata, viz. the slaty limestone with organic remains, the blue limestone destitute of these, and the sandstone with a loose tex- ture. The falls are occasioned by the fissures which occur in the superior limestone, and which allow the water to |)enetratc through this bed to the sandstone, which, being of a loose texture, is soon washed away ; in this manner thick plates of limestone are left un- supported, and soon fall by their own gravity. This process is constantly causing the fall to recede towards its source. What length of time has been required to bring the falls to their present situation, it is not in the power of man to ascertain ; but we may well see that it must have been immense. The difference of level be- tween the head of the fall, and the level of the river at the fort, being, as we have stated, estimated at about one hundred feet, and the strata running in a horizontal position, we can readily account for the additional strata observed under the sandstone at the fort, and which are concealed at the falls. It would remain for us, in order to complete this view of the geology of the falls, to inquire whether the lime- stone observed at the falls, corresponds with that su- perior to the sandstone south of the Wisconsan, and if I we are SOURCli OF ST. PKT£R S RIVEU. 323 tliat, found near the level of the river at the fort, be analogous to that observed under the sandstone, be- tween the Wisconsan and the Wassemon. We shall not affect a degree of certainty which we do not possess, but we may be permitted to advance an opinion that the sandstone is probably of analogous formation, and that, therefore, the strata of limestone, which we found at the falls, correspond with that stratum of whose existence, at a former period, between the VVaasem'^ . and the Wis- consan, we think we have evident proofs. >Ve have in our possession, specimens taken in both places, filled with apparently the same organic remains, and exhibit- ing characters in the rock which correspond as well as could be expected from pieces, collected at three hundred miles distance from each other. We must regret that the' circumstances under which we ascended the Mississippi have not enabled us to offer a more con- elusive opinion upon this point, or upon the identity or difference between the limestone inferior to the stand- stone at the fort and that observed previous to our arri- val at Prairie du Chien. To one, fond of the pleasures of hunting and fishing, a residence at Fort St. Anthony would offer an oppor- tunity of enjoying these occupations. Catfish has been caught at the falls weighing one hundred and forty-two pounds. Among the birds, observed by Mr. Say, were the Woodcock,* the House Wren,t the Flecker,^ the Hairy Woodpecker,^ the Towhee bunting, &c. &c. The soldiers, that had accompanie£TI£R S RIVKR. 3*29 and lying immediutely opposite tu the mouth, concealed the St. Peter from Hennepin's observation. No notice of this river is to be found in any of the authors anterior to the end of the 17th century. Indeed, it is only by close research that we have been enabled to trace the discovery of this river so far back. Charlevoix states,* that le Sueur was sent by M. d*lberville to make an es- tablishment in the Sioux country, and to take possession of a copper mine that he had there discovered {que le Sueur y avail decouverte) ; he ascended the St. Peter forty leagues to " la Riviere Verte," which comes in on the left.f Though only the last of September, the ice pre- vented him from ascending that river more than a league. He thererefore built a fort, and spent the win- ter at that spot ; in April, 1702,:|: he went up the Riviere Verte to the mine, which was only three quarters of a league above his winter establishment. In twenty-two days they got out more than thirty thousand pounds of ore (de matiire), of which four thousand pounds were selected and sent to France. The mine was at the foot of a mountain ten leagues long, that seemed to be com- posed of the same substance. After removing a black burnt crust, as hard as rock, the copper could be scraped with a knife. Several reasons, but particularly the want of pecuniary means, prevented le Sueur from following up the discovery. This account corresponds in part with that contained in a very interesting manuscript be- longing to the American Philosophical Society, and which appears to have been written with considerable • Charlevoix, Histoire de la nouvelle France, a Paris, 1714, tome i, p. 165 and 166. f As ho ascended, right bank ? \ This ought probably to be 1701. !: .1 '» i; i t!! mn) fcXrKDITION TO TUB I I care uiul accuracy. We tiiid it therein stated, that tlie said *' le Sueur arrived at the mouth of tlic Mississippi with M. d'lhcrville in December, IGJH); that he hrought over with liini thirty workmen. He had hcen," says the author ut'tlie MS. **' a famous traveller from Canada, and was sent by M. L'Huiliier, a principal contractor (fer- mitr general) under government, in order to form an estal)Hshment near the source of the Mississippi. The object of this enterprizc was to obtain from that place, an ore of green earth which that gentleman had disco- vered ; the following was the origin of this undertaking, in 1G95 : M. le Sueur, by order of the Count de Fron- tenac, Governor General of Canada, caused a fort to be erected on an island on the Mississippi, upwards of two hundred miles above the Illinois ; in order to keep up peaceful relations between the Sioux and Chippewa na- tions, which reside on the shores of a lake upwards of five hundred leagues in circumference, which lake lies one hundred leagues east of the river ; the Sioux reside upon the upper Mississippi. In the same year, accord- ing to his orders, hedeseended to Montreal, with a chief of tlie Chippewa, named Chingouab6,an(l a Sioux, called Tioscate, who was the first of his nation that ever was in Canada; and as they expected to draw from his country many articles ,'iiluable in trade, the Cotmt de Frontenac, the Chevalier de la Cailliere, and ue Champigny, re- ceived him very amicably. Two days after their arrival, they presented to the Count de Frontenac, in a public assembly, as many ai rows as there were Sioux villages, and they informed him that all those villages entreated him to receive them among his children, as he had done to all the other nations whieh thev named one after the % ■! ' SOURCE OF 8T. PKTKR S RIVKil. 331 Other, which favour was granted to them. M. le Sueur was to have reaf^cended the "Mississippi" as early as 1096, with that Sioux chief who had only come down upon an express promise that he should he taken buck to his country ; but the latter fell sick in Montreal, and died after thirty-three days disease. M. le Sueur finding himself thus released from his pledge to return into the Sioux country, where he had discovered mines of lead, copper, and earth, both blue and green, resolved upon going over to France, and asking leave of the court to open those mines; a permission to this eftect was grant- ed to him in l(ji)7' About the latter eiul of June, in the same vear, he embarked at la Rochelle for Canada : as he was crossing Newfoundland banks he was captured by a British fleet of sixteen ships, and by them taken to Portsmouth ; but peace having been soon after conclud- ed, he returned to Paris to obtain a new cotnmission, as he had thrown his overboard, lest the English should become acquainted M'ith his scheme. The French cotu't directed a new commission to be issued to him in 1098. He then went over to Canada, where he met with vari- ous obstacles which compelled him to return to Europe. During this interval of time, part of the men whom he had left in charge of the forts which he had erected in 1695, being without intelligence from him, abandoned them, and proceeded down to Montreal."* * " Juurnal historique conccniant I'ctublissement des Fmii^'uis a la Loui- 8ianne, tire des memoirvs dc Messrs. d' Iberville & de Uicuville commandans pour le lloi au dit pays, ot sur les decouvertes et reclierclies de M. Beiiard d« la Harpe, nomm« au cominandeinent dc la Bayc St. Bernard ; pai- M. B4nard de la Harpe," MS. This is stated to be a copy of the original, wliicli was, in tl>e year ISOi"). in tiio poHsession ol Dr. SiliU-y. hj> ap|)ears H 332 KXPKniTION TO THB i| Thus it appeal's from this manuscript, that le Sueur's discoveries of blue earth were made in 1695, but that all further operations were interrupted until 1700; we find in the same manuscript^, under the date of the 10th of February, 1702, that le Sueur arrived at the mouth of the Mississippi that day with two thousand cwt. (quin- tax), of blue and green earth. An extract from a narra- tive of his voyage is then given from the time that he left the Island of Taniarois (12th July), unto the 13th December, 1700. From this extract, which is fraught with interest, as it is the first account we can find, in which St. Peter's river is mentioned, we gather that he reached the mouth of the Missouri on the 13th uf July, 1700, and the mouth of the Wisconsan on the 1st of September; and that, on the 14tli, he passed Chippewa river, on one of the branches of which, he had, during his Brst visit to the country, found a piece ofcopptrM'eiichlng tiixty pounds. He next entered Lake Pepin, which is designated by that name in the manu- script, although Hennepin had, in 1680, called it the Lake of Tears, and notwithstanding the appellation of Lac de Bon Secours, which Charlevoix applies to it. from a note annexed to it, certifying it to be a true copy, and dated Natchi- toches, October, 29th, 1805. From the manuscript it appears that M, dc la Hurpe was on the lower Mississippi in the early part of the 18th century, and that he continued there until the commencement of the year 1723. His appointment to the command of St. Bernard's Bay, was made in the year 1721. He appears to have proceeded to it at that time; but owing to the weakness of his garrison, he found himself unable to continue his post there. His journal throws considerable light upon the history of the discoveries of the French on the lower Mississippi, and is closed with a memoir upon the importance of the colony of Louisiana, and upon the situation of that colony in I724>; together with some observations upon the best passage to the Wes tern Ocean, and upon the origin of the Indians of America. «oi;hck or st. pktkr s iuvkr. :w,i On the 16th he passed the St. Croix, so called from the name of a Frenchman, who was wrecked at its month. Finally, on the 19th of September, he left the Missis- sippi, and entered the St. Peter's river, which comes in from the west bank. By the first of October, he had ascended this river furty-fonr and a quarter leagues, when he entered the Blue river, the name of which is derived from the blue earth found on its banks. At the mouth of this river he made an establishment, si- tuated, as la Harpe states, in latitude 44" 1.3' north. He met with nine Sioux, who informed him that this river had its course through the lands of the Sioux of the west, the /iyavois {lawas)^ and the Otoetata, who lived further back. We infer that these were the same streams which he had ascended in 1695, from the cir- cumstance that they are mentioned ns well known, and not as recently discovered ; and more especially from the observation of la Harpe, that the eastern Sioux having complained of the situation of the fort, which they would have wished to see at the confluence of the St. Peter and Mississippi, M. le Sueur endeavoured to reconcile them to it. " He had foreseen," says la Harpe, " that an establishment on the Blue river would not be agreeable to the eastern Sioux, who are the rulers of all the other Sioux, and of the other nations which we have mentioned, because they were the first with whom the French traded, and whom they provided with guns ; nevertheless, as this undertaking had not been com- menced with the sole view of trading for beavers, but in order to become thoroughly acquainted with the quality of the various mines which he had previously discovered therey he replied to the natives that he was "1 1 1 f i"! , _ 1 f jfll i^ iMI 334 KXI'hDiriON TO rilK :i '! I I sorry that he Imd not been itiude sooner acquuintcd with their wishes, ^c. hut that the advanced state of the season prevented his returning to tlic mouth of t)i(> river." No mention is made, in this narrative, of the stream beini; obiitructed with ice, a circumstance, which, had it really occurred, would, we think, have been recorded by de la Harpc, who appears to have been a careful and a curious observer, and who und<>uhte in honour of M.St. Pierre crhaps be partly ac- counted for by his having seen the river at a time when it was unusually high, and when a mere brook may have been so much swollen as to be mistaken for a small branch of the river, yet we cannot place any confidence in him, on account of the many misrepresentations con- tained in his work. Almost all tiuit he relates as pecu- liar to the Naudowessies, is found to a|)ply to the Sauks, or some other nation of Algon(|uiu origin. Thus on reading to Renville, Dickson (the sou of the late Col. Dickson), and to several other of the half-Indian interpreters whom wc saw on the St. Peter, tlidt part of chapter 12th of his work, in which he relates that *' the Naudowessies have a singul ir method uf VOL. 1. '/ I lil .11 338 kxi'kdhion io tiik h M celebrating their inurriagcs, wliich seems to beat* no resemblance to those made use of by any other nations that he passed through," these men all exclaimed that it was fabulous, that such a practice had never prevailed among any of the Dacotas, though they believed it to be in use with some of the Algonquin tribe.-^. Tlie practice of having a totem or family distinction, exist?, as we have already stated, among the Sauks, &c., but it is quite unknown to the Sioux, to whom it is attri- buted by this writer. It is, we believe, clearly proved at present, that the land, which he claimed by virtue ot a grant from the Indians, was never cunveyed to hint by them. Attenipts were made in 181/, by two of his grandsons, to have the claim recognized by some of the Indians now living ; they asceni.ed the river at the same time that Mnjor Long did, but were not success- ful. An instrument, purporting to be the origiiuil treaty, was afterwards sent to Canada, and placed in Renville's hands by those who had an interest in tlio claim : he was requested to show it and explain its nature to the Indians, and to endeavour to obtain a con- firmation of it from them ; but, as he informed us, he could find no individual among them who had the leust recollection or tradition of this conveyance, or even of the names which are purported to have been allixed to the deed ; the Indians have no hesitation in assert- ing, that there never were among them any Dacota chiefs of the name. When chapter 5th of Carver's work was read to Renville and the other men, they denied the truth of its contents ; but immediately re- collected the designs of a snake and a tortoise, which were affixed to the treaty, no doubt to make it tally with the account of their fanxilv distinctions contained SOUHTK OK ST. PETRIt S RIVKK. ;«9 in that chapter of his travels. His vocabulary appears certainly to have been taken from the Dacota language : it may have been obtained from the Indians along the banks of the Mississippi, but M'as more probably copied from some former traveller ; for a reference to old works will prove that Carver derived much of his information from them, though no credit is given to their authors for it. A comparison of his arcount of the manners of the Indians with that given by Lahon- tan, shows that he was familiar with that autlior. His statement of the division of the year by the Indians into twelve moons, with the addition, at the end of the thirtieth, of what they term the lost moon, &c., is extracted, and in some places copied, almost verba- tim, from Laliontan's ; his account of the qualifications of mer^ is undoubtedly drawn from the same author ; and a comparison of chapter 12th of Carver's Descrip- tion of the Indians, with Lahontan's " Account of the Amours and Marriages of the Savages,'' will show too close a coincidence to consider it as merely accidental. Yet no reference is made bv Carver to the work of his predecessor. We have introduced these observations upon the work of Carver, because as he was the only traveller that published an account of the St. Peter, he has been frequently (pioted as an authority. \7r might have enlarged the list of errors, wliefhei' wilful or unintentional, into which this iintlior has fallen, but we have said enough to show that his statements can- not be relied upon as correct. Major Long's party ascended the liver live and a half miles, and stopped for a icw moinenls at a village called Oanoska* (which signiiies the great avenue or 'stretch), • AlincJski. z 2 \m . f I Ii t • I 340 KMKDrnON lO TIJK n I . situntod "1 the right bunk ; tliey then proceetled about one mi'" ni{?her up, where they lay by hi n deserted cabin on the left bank. The ciibin having been care- fully cloited in order to secure it against injury from wild animals, they took down the skins which hung at the door, and made themselves comfortable in it. While at supper, they received a visit from an old squaw, who came from the village below, to see what they were doing. The lodge, as she informed them, was her's, but as the men had all gone out hunting, she had renjoved down to live with her daughter. Having observejl a fire near her cabin, she was appreheiisive that some injury would be done to it ; they however satisfied her that their intentions were friendly ; and Renville informed the gentlemen that no offence could be taken at their intrusion in the house, as thev were travelling in an official capacity ; but that if other In- dians, or voyagers that were not known, had taken that liberty, it would have been held highly improper. There was something gratifying, and yet melancholy, in the recollection that we had thus for awhile bid adieu to civilization, and that before us we had nothing but a wide and untravelled land, where no white men resided, except such as hu^'- I'- 342 KXI'KUITION TO THB ': f liidiniis ill council, lie had kindly undertaken to ascend tu the village of the Sisitun band of the Sioux, for the purpose of holding a council with them in our presence, and with this view had left the fort that morning ; but having been informed on the river that they had all dispersed on their summer-hunts, he returned the same evcniug.*= The next day we travelled about thirty-five miles : at six miles from the night's camp, we passed the small village of Tetankatane ; all the men were absent on their hunts. We proceeded up the river, and, at a distance of about twenty miles, Mr. Say was .>poken to on shore. Instructions were sent through him to the land party, to meet Major Long, at a village two miles higher, in order to take advantage of the canoes, for the transportation of the baggage across the river, as the right bank becomes here better for travelling than the left. The flotilla reached this village about twelve o'clock, and waited live hours, during which the land party did not join them ; men were sent out in various directions and guns fired, but no answer being returned, we concluded that they had proceeded higher up the river. Wc re-em- barked and ascended ten miles to a small wood, where wc encamped for the night. The village, at which we had expected to meet the other party, is called Taoapa jf it consists of fifteen large bark lodges, in good order; they were arranged along the river. Some of them were large enough to hold from thirty to fifty persons, • Swannt) ol an iiisool ot the Liniiuuii genus Ephemera, were ubncrvcd by tlie party along tlie l)aiiks of the river. It Iiuh been described by Mr. Say under the name ot Hai'ti'* hilitu'iita, S ( .\ppendix I. Entomology). The surface of th<' river was in niiiiiy plaees absolutely covered wjtii tlie rcmainsi of thene iubeetH, who, having gone through their khort-lived existence, fell upon the water and were rariied down the utreani. f TaoiipA. •,>.,•*.:■ ,^- SOIRCK OP- ST. PKTKR 8 HIVKR. 343 HccominofiatiMi ns the liuiians usunlly are in tlieir lodges. The groitiid near it is neatly laid ont, and some fine corn-fields were observed in tlie vicinity. There were scatfolds annexed to the houses, for the purpose of dry- ing niai/e, iScc. ; upon these we were told that the Indians sleep during very hot nights. The banks of the river had thus far been low, and co- vered with a fine rich vegetation ; the trees attained a large size near the river, but they did not extend far into the interior of the country. Near Fort St. Anthony there is a fine piece of bottom, exposed to occasional in- undations. The line of bluffs, which borders upon the Mississippi, docs not extend fur from that stream, but gradually sinks in height, until it finally disappears near the village of Oanoska. The soil along the river is of the best quality. After ascending about thirty miles, the bluffs reappear, and rise to an average height of seventy- five feet on the left bank. In the bottoms, the elm forms the principal growth of the country, and thrives. In the rear of the village of Tuoapa a swanip extends, and di- vides it from the bluffs. The grass grows in some places to the height of six feet, as was principally observed east of the village, by some of the party who undertook to walk down to the place where Mr. Say had been spoken to. We saw al)out the village no stones of any kind; but, on the rii,^ht bank. Major liong observed a number of fragments of primitive rock, and also some secondary limestone, which appeared to him to be iit sitn. There were some scaffolds, upon which several corpses were placed. In the midst of Jie corn-fields a dog was found suspended, his head decorated wiili feathers, and with horse-hair stain<, durint; the absence of / 4 \ ;!' m N :h4 K\l>KUITION lO niK If the Indiaiiij. On tiie riglil bank, Major Long observed numerous ancient tumuli or artificial mounds*, some of which were of a large size ; they occupy a considerable extent of the prairie upon which they are situated. In one part they formed a line of about half a miU% in a di* rection parallel with the river, from which they were distant about three hundred yards. The mounds were erected at a distance of from twelve to fifteen yards asun- der, and when observed from one end of the line, pre> sented the appearance of a ridge or parapet. Proceeding early the next morning, the land party was found encamped six miles above the village, on a fine piece of rising ground, which the voyagers have called the Little Prairie. They had not been able to reach the village from the inexperience of their guide, who had kept them in the rear of the swamp. The river was ob- served to widen much at places ; it was here about se- venty yards broad ; its current, which had always been inconsiderable, compared with that of the Mississippi, increased as we advanced. The cause of this is, that the great volume of waf r, which the Mississippi rullsdown, backs up the waters of most of its tributary streams, and produces a real pond at their mouth. This is no doubt the cause of the lake formed by the St.Croix, &c. Our flotilla assisted the land party in crossing the ri- ver, after which we again separated; and the boat hav- ing ascended a few miles, came to rapids formed by two bars of sandstone, which extend across the river, pro- duciiiL'' a fall of about four feet within twenty yards. The water in the river, at the time we ascended, was of uii average height, remarkable neither fur its abiiiiT. FKTEK S IIIVKH. 3-15 baggage and stores in tlicni, the crew and passengers walking ulong.Mde, and dragging them up the rapid. A shoal below hud likewise required that our canoes should be lightened. Another rapid, about half a mile above, proved more ditficult to pass. There being u sufficient depth of water, we ascended in the boat and ca- noes : one of the latter missed the channel, which is nar- row, and in which there is a rapid current ; the canoe drifted down against the rock, and fears were enter- tained that it would be lust ; but with considerable la- bour, and after about half an hour's detention, it was at last brought U|) safe. The aggregate fall of the two rapids is seven feet. At a short distance above this we stopped for an hour ; this gave us an opportunity of ob- serving the nature of the country. The stream is there incased by a vertical bank, about ten or twelve feet high, the base of which is washed by the river. Ascending this bank, we fuul a level valley, whicij is about a quarter ofa mile wide; this is limited by a steep and rugged bank, of about twenty feet in lu iglit. Having ascended this bank, a beautiful prairiv-, apparently very extensive, displayed itsci' to our vicu. The steep bank, which exposes the (li>|>ot!iitiou o4 the rock, shows it to be a sand- stone formation in a horizontal stratification, and of a fine crvstalline grain, the colour varying from white to yellow: this sandstone is, in every respect, similar to that found at Fort St. Anthony. Six miles above the rapids there is a small Indian settlement, called Wea- kaote.* It was deserted, but consi>te(l of two lodges and the ruins ofa third, near which there were two scaf- folds. On these scaffolds, which are frotn eight to ten • WiilkAtWc. !! II I'l .'M(i KM'KDMION r<> rilK i\ Cool liit(ii, corpses wore (iuposilcd in u box made Iruin part uf a brukcu I'liiioc. Some liuir wiiM suitpeiided, which we at tirst inistouk for a t^calp ; but our guide in. formed us that these were locks of hair torn from their heads by the relations, to testify their grief. In the cen- tre, between the four posts which supported the scaffold, a stake was planted in the ground : it was about six feet high, and bore an imitation of human tigures, five of which had a d<.>sign of a ))etticoat, indicating them to be females ; the rest, amounting to seven, were naked, and were inten lUVKK. 347 urrivul, lie fuuiul tliut the curpse liud already nindc such pi'oi^ress towards dccompositiuii, as to render it hiipo8t»i- ble fur it to be removed. He then undertook, with u tew friends, to cleun olV the bones ; all the flesh was Hcruped otl'and thrown into the stream, the bones were carefully collected into his canoe, and subsequently car- ried down to hiii residence. The two parties having e\chan( IIHIH i^: '' I I i ,1 1 > ■i 1 ! i ■■ I 350 KXPKDITION TO TIIK ened to become still more tedious on account of the in- creasing shallowness of the water. Our provisions were not sufficient to support so large a party ; and the coun- try being destitute of animal;:, afforded us no supply. The only game killed, from the time that the party left the fort, were two ducks. Our guide further informed us, that if we continued to ascend the St. Peter in ca- noes, we should lose much precious time, arrive on Red River after the buffalo had left it, and find it, probably, impossible to reach the head of Lake Superior before the winter season had commenced ; in which case, we should be compelled to winter somewhere west of the lakes. As this comported neither with Major Long's wishes, nor with the instructions which he had received from the War Department, it induced him to relinquish the plan of ascending in canoes, and to send back nine sol- diers, retaining but twelve men as a guard, which in the present dispersed state of the Indians promised sufficient protection. By proceeding all in one party on land, much time would necessarily be saved, and the bends of the river need not be followed. Although this plan did not afford us as good a prospect of becoming acquainted with the nature of the country as the mode we had here- tofore followed, yet, in the present state of our affairs, it was judged to be the only one that could be adopted with prudence ; and as this modification in our manner of travelling required a corresponding change in the arrangement of our baggage, we proceeded a few miles higher up, to a fine prairie, where we found good pas- ture for our horses. The spot upon which we encamp- ed has received the name of the Crescent, from a beau- tiful bend which the river makes at thia place. The two parties having united here, a day was spent with drying w ili'' SOUUCK OK ST. PKTKa's RIVKR. 351 Id be adopted the baggage, and separating the damaged provisions from those that were still fit for use. The acetous fer- mentation having commenced in our biscuit, such parts of it as were not too much injured were roasted over the fire. As this was the highest spot on the St. Peter which we reached in canoes, it may be well to recapitulate the general characters of this stream, as we observed it from its mouth to the Crescent, a distance of one hundred and thirty miles by water. The breadth of the river varies from sixty to eighty yards, but averages about seventy ; its depth is such that it cannot be forded for about forty-five miles from its mouth. At Fort St. Anthony, the St. Peter is said to be about sixteen feet deep. The depth diminished rapidly as we proceeded up the river, and, in some places, our canoes had barely water enough to float them ; yet the river was not considered very low at that season. In times of floods it can be ascended much higher, without inconvenience, by loaded canoes. The current, which is almost imperceptible at Fort St. Anthony, increases, and in some places is quite rapid } during the three last days it was found to average about one mile and a half an hour. The bed of the river is chiefly sand, arising from the destruction of the sand- stone in which it is excavated. The banks usually rise to about twelve or fifteen feet, and are chiefly, if not altogether, composed of sandstone. On the last day, we saw a bluff that rises to sixty or eighty feet j it con- sists of white sandstone, and is called the white rock ; limestone is, however, found in the country in various places. The granitic boulders, which appear to be A ■'. ■il |1 : ^1 :( ; . ! \ f f ( 1:1 '■ i i 5. i 1 11 m 352 KXPI'-DITION TO THE quite deficient in tlie lower part of the river, are found tolerably abundant after passing the village of Taoapa. In some cases they assume a very large size; one of them was of an elliptical form ; it was twelve yards in periphery, and five feet high ; it is evidently out of place, and forms a conspicuous object in the prairie. The designs made upon it by the Indians, consisting of thick lines divided by intermediate dots, prove that it was with them an object of veneration. There are like- wise amphibolic boulders scattered over the country. The bed of the river presents but few islands below the rapids, but above these it is chequered with numerous small sandy islands, which change the direction of the channel, and contribute to the rapidity of the current. The largest of these islands does not exceed three hundred yards in length, and thirty in breadth. The river is a very meandering one ; so much so that the canoes were seldom steered for five minutes at a time in the same direction. The courses of the river varied from south-west to north-east, and in some cases even were south-east. The situation of Camp Crescent was estimated, by Mr. Colhoun, from observations taken under unfavourable circumstances, to be about latitude 440 21' 27" north, longitude 94° 15' west ; so that, dur- ing our progress up the St. Peter, we had made but 65' of westing, and 32' 22" of southing. The river re- ceives in this extent no tributary of any importance; a few small rivulets, not exceeding ten or twelve in num- ber, enter it occasionally from the right or left bank. Those only which deserved any mention are. Elk, which enters from the right bank, about twenty miles above the fort, and the small rivulet which comes in from the left bank about forty miles above the fort, and which is ■It' ■ I- i h- i SOURCE OP ST. PRTRR S RIVER. 3.53 probably the same as Carver's river ; at about twenty- five miles below the Crescent a shallow stream, six yards wide, enters from the left bank. In our description of the observations recorded by the party in the canoes, we have included those made upon the nature of the river, &c. by the land party, and it may suffice to mention that the difficulties which they experienced were very great, owing to the nature of the country over which they travelled. At times it was so marshy, that they could not proceed without much danger to themselves and their horses; and, in one or two instances, the ground Wcis so soft that they were obliged to construct causeways or bridges, to enable their horses to pass over it. The forests which they traversed consisted chiefly of maple, white walnut, hickory, oak, elm, ash, linden (Tilia Americana), inter- spersed with grape-vines, &c. The absence of the black walnut on the St. Peter, and near Fort St. Anthony, was particularly observed. The rosin plant was not seen after leaving Prairie du Chien. The yellow rasp- berry was abundant in many places, and ripe at the time the party passed through the forests. The course of the party was generally in the valley of ihe St. Peter, not far from, and frequently in sight of, the river, which offered them some fine water-scenery, presenting, how- ever, a great degree of sameness ; its principal defect is the want of objects to animate the scenes ; no buflalo ranging across the prairie, no deer starting through the forests, no birds interrupting the solemn stillness which uniformly reigns over the country, the St. Peter rolls in silence its waters to the Mississippi. Where game is scarce, the Indian of course finds no inducement to hunt, and hence the party frequently travelled for whole VOL. I. 2 a ii ■'.ii ■111 "I ill II ' 354 EXPBDITION TO TUB I J 'il^?ii ■ ■• "?'!• 1 r ' y.iu' < ! i i r.^ I I'll 35(i EXPKDITION TO TIIK I J f : account of tlie great bend which the river makes at the Crescent, but by the route which we pursued we avoided the bend. It has been stated, that the locality of this blue earth, as well as that of the red stone used for pipes, were considered as neutral grounds, where the different nations of Indians could meet and collect these sub* stances without apprehension of being attacked; but we Lave not heard this report confirmed. The mouth of the Blue Earth river is the chief residence of a tribe of the Dacotas, who call themselves the Miakechakesa,* and who are generally known by the traders by the name of Sisitons. They are a warlike and powerful band, and at that time were considered as unfriendly to the Ameri- cans on account of the government's having arrested, and sent to St. Louis for trial, one of their tribe who had killed a white man. It was chiefly from them that hos- tilities liad been apprehended, and the force which we had taken at Fort St. Anthony was intended to protect the party against an attack from them ; but, in order to evince a friendly disposition on the part of our govern- ment. Major Taliaferro had intended to hold a council ■with them at the same time. The news of their being dispersed on their summer hunts was the principal rea- son which Induced Major Long to desist from his inten- tion of visiting the mouth of the Terre Bleue, and which determined him to order back part of our es- cort. In the evening, the party encamped on the bank of a small pool, which forms one of a group of ponds digni- fied with the appellation of the Swan Lakes, on account of the abundance of these birds. said to exist in their SOURCE OF ST. PKTliK S RIVER. 357 neighboiu'huod. The Indian name Is Manlm tanka ota- nicnda^* which signifies the lake of the many large birdti. Observations were made by Mr. Colhoim to determine the longitude of this place ; although taken at a time when the sun was very lotv, they served to correct the observations made at the Crescent. These lakes are more properly marshes, the quantity of water in them varying according to the seasons. We had passed several of them during the day j in one of these marshes our pack- horses \vere several times exposed to much difliculty ; and the mule that carried the biscuit having stumbled, part of our provisions were wet and damaged. Proceed- ing the next day on our course, we struck the St. Peter about noon, and found its current very rapid, but its size reduced to nearly one-half of that which it present- ed at the Crescent. This confirmed the report of our guides, that the Tjrre Bleue almost equals the St. Peter in the quantity of its waters. We had been able to trace the course of the river during the morning, by the line of woods which skirts it, and by the bluffs which border upon its right bank, rising to a height of from sixty to eighty feet ; on the left bank the bluffs are neither so high nor so abrupt. The country, however, almost every where discovers its horizontal stratification by the steep acclivities which it forms, even in the prairies; presenting rather the appearance of steppes than of the rounded swells which generally cha- racterize prairie land. At a small distance from our course we observed horizontal ledges of rock, which wo were inclined to consider as the limestone that lies on the sandstone. Animals of every kind still contitnied ■,. I ]^ldiihA taiika ot^mluda. 2 A 3 i (i h 1 r f ■ ! 358 LXI'KDITION TU TilK very scarce. A gurter-snake was killed near Swan Lake, upon which our guides took occasion to inform us, that the rattlesnake had sometimes been found near these lakesj but never to the north of them ; this ap- pearing to be their northernmost limit in this direction. The botany of tlie country was diversified by the reap- pearance of the Gerardria, a plant which had not been seen since we left Chicago. Near Swan Lake two ele- vations were observed, which appeared to be artificial tumuli. Some depressions were ali>o seen, and these were by Renville called forts, but by whom they were scooped out, if indeed they be artificial, he could not in- form us. We crossed the St. Peter at noon, immediately above a ripple ; our horses sank to their girths in the water. One mile further, we passed a small stream about fifteen yards wide, and eighteen inches det>,.^ having a white sandy bottom ; it is designated by the name of the Ri- viere aux Liards (Cottonwood),* from the abundance of this tree on its banks ; by the Indians it Is called War- hoju Watapa.f A bloody fniy is stated to have occurred at the junction of the Aux Liards and St. Peter ; it arose between two tribes of Sioux, who met there with traders. The latter having furnished them with liquor, the Indians drank to intoxication, quarrelled among themselves, and killed seven of their number. In travelling through an Indian country, many places are pointed out that have acquired a similar melancholy ce- lebrity, and that tend to confirm the traveller in the conviction, of the heavy responsibility which attaches to those who have introduced, and still persist in carrying liquor umoiig the Indians. Populus angulata* t W5rhAji\. SOURCE OF »r. I'KTKK's RIVKU. 3.'>9 ?n, and these Our journey during the afternoon was continued uloni,' the valley of tlie St. Peter, whicli was observed to be from one to one and a h«lf mile wide. The adjacent prairie is elevated about eighty feet above the level of the river. A feature which struck us was the abundance of fragments of primitive rocks which were strewed in this valley : they were for the most part deeply imbed- ded in the ground, and bore but few traces of attrition j their bulk was very large. For a while we doubted whether we were not treading upon the crest of a for- mation of primitive rocks, which pierced through the superincumbent formations : but a close observation evinced such a confusion and diversity in the nature of the primitive blocks, as well as such signs of friction, as satisfied us that these were out of place ; still they ap- peared to warrant the geologist in his prediction, that the party was approaching to a primitive formation, and that certainly the valley of the St. Peter had been one of the channels through which the primitive boulders had been removed from their original site. This assertion was fully substantiated , two days afterwards, by the dis- covery of the primitive rocks in situ. A very considera- ble swell between the river and the right bank of the val- ley, was supposed to be formed by the primitive rocks rising to a greater level than usual. If it be occasioned by an accumulation of fragments and boulders, as the nature of its surface might lead to believe, it is a very interesting feature in the valley. We passed soon after two Indian lodges, in one of which was the chief Wamendetanka (War Eagle), generally known by the name of the Black Dog. He rules over the small village of Oanoska, situated near the mouth of the St. Peter. He is not a man of note, 2 A 4 i ■ : • h 't ',! 1. ' 1 ' ■ : «: 1;' - 7 'i ; i [ ' ' 1 I ■' .' r 1 ^' .( i iiiBll. *•■'■!■ 1 ' H' y- :; 1 1 . h :, irti'; !^ 'N;-! «?" ( ' I ■ W t neither is he acknowledged as an independent chief, but being the head of an extensive family, he separated from his tribe some years ago ; he leads about forty warriors. We stopped but a short time at his lodge, to exchange a few words with him; we admired much the appearance of his sons and daughters, who are tall, graceful, and well-formed. He is about fifty years of age, and has much dignity in his appearance. The journey of the 18th of July, being across the prairie, offered but little interest. The monotony of a prairie country always impresses the traveller with a melancholy, which the sight of water, woods, &c. cannot fail to remove. During that day we enjoyed no view of the river, and the great scarcity of springs, and wood for cooking, made the travelling uncomfortable j to these we must add a temperature of about 94**, exhi- bited by the thermometer when in the shade, and pro- tected against all radiation of heat. But the greatest annoyance which we had to encounter, were the mos- quetoes, which arose in such swarms, as to prove a more serious evil than caii he imagined by those who have not experienced it. We never were tormented at any period of our journey more than when travelling in the vicinity of the St. Peter. The mosquetoes generally rose, all of a sudden, about the setting of the sun. Their appearance was so instantaneous, that we had no time to prepare ourselves against them ; whenever we had the good fortune to encamp previous to their sallying from their hiding places, our great object was to com- plete our evening meal before they commenced their attack, for this we found ourselves unable to resist ; and we have not unfrequently been so much annoyed by these insects, as to be obliged to relinquish an unfinished sup- SOURCB OF ST. PETEu's RIVER. 361 per, or to throw away a cup of tea, which we could not enjoy, while stung on all sides by countless numbers of nio&quctoes. When a high wind reduced their numbers, we found some relief from remaining in a dense cloud of smoke j but even this proved of no avail, when, from the calmness or heat of the atmosphere, their numbers were undiminished. In such cases, our only alternative was to endure their stings, or to smother under the weight of a blanket in which we wrapped ourselves up, covering our faces, hands, &c. To protect our feet and legs, we were obliged to lie with our boots on. The annoyance continued until some time after sunrise, when the increasing heat of the day drove them back into their recesses. Tlie sleepless nights which we fre- quently passed, when exposed to this torment, rendered this part of our journey the most fatiguing. Our horses fared even worse, for they were exposed, like us, during the night, to the sting of the mosquetoe, and during the day the big horse-fly proved equally noxious. ^ The soil of the prairies is not uniform in quality : in some instances it was remarkably fine, and of an intense black colour j the grass, conssequently, grew to a con- siderable size, was luxuriant, and of a rich green hue. In other parts the soil is sandy, greyish, and appears to be of an inferior quality; its produce then presents a similar inferiority ; the blades of grass are scattered, short, of a yellowish and sickly aspect. The earth ap- pears dry, and scorched with the heat of the sun. The party had frequent opportunities of remarking the difficulty which exists, to determine w itli accuracy the nature or size of objects seen at a distance. Sand- hill cranes, seen on the prairie, were by some of the company mistaken for elks. w m 1,1 I I ■<; 11 !■ nil ' : .1 ■ I Mw\ n I ' 1.1 , ■> < 3G2 EXPEDITION TO THE Among the birds observed on the prairie, besides the sandhill crane, are the reed-bird, black-bird,* yellow- headed black-bird,t the black breasted ternj| the last of which was very abundant. Mr. Say shot the female of the Mergus cucuUatus, and a blue-winged teal. Among the reptiles, besides the common garter-snake, § there M'as one with lateral red spots. || A coluber, like the melanoleucus, but spotted, and similar to that found on the Missouri, was killed on these prairies. In several of the marshes, the huts of the muskrat were found very abundant. The herbarium was enriched by the addition of a beautiful specimen of the Lilium Philadelphicum, which was still seen flowering, though it had nearly ceased to bloom. Another great ornament of the prai- ries is the Lilium Superbum. The Gerardria was still occasionally seen. This plant is, as we were informed, considered by the Indians to be a specific against the bite of the rattlesnake; the root is scraped and the scrapings applied to the wound ; it is said that, if used upon a recent wound, a single application will suffice. The boulders, which are so common in the valley of the St. Peter, are but seldom seen on the praries. After proceeding another half day on the prairie, the party found itself on the banks of the Chanshayapef watapa, or the stream of the " tree painted red." This is u beautiful rivulet, which was about eight yards wide where we crossed it. It runs in a wide and romantic valley. The bluffs which rise on both sides, are formed of a fine white sandstone. We stopped for a few • Oriolus, [Zanthomus, Ciivier,] plueniccus. + Oriolus, [Zanthornus, Cuvier,] icterocephalus. § Coluber ordinatus. || Coluber parietalis. 1 Chanshily^pc. I Sterna. SOURCS OF ST. PETER S RIVKR. 363 e, besides the niomeuts on the edge of the bank, previouii to descend- ing into the valley, to enjoy the beautiful and refreshing scenery which offered itself to our view, and which formed a pleasing contrast with the burned and blasted appearance of the prairie. The junction of the valley of the St. Peter with that of its tributary, about two miles below the place where we stood, occasioned an expansion of both valleys at that spot. The beautiful and diversified vegetation, springing luxuriantly on the banks of both streams, the rapid current of the waters rushing to one common point, formed a landscape, which, at that time, appeared to us as smiling and as beautiful as any we had ever beheld. But it is probable that much of its charms arose from the contrast which it presented with the wearisome views of thv boundless prairies : perhaps, also, we found ourselves in better spirits to enjoy the scenery, from perceiving, near these banks, the first trace of the buffalo, whence we drew prospects of a speedy change in our fare, together with hopes of soon sharing in the sports of an active and in- teresting chase. Though narrow, the Redwood, whose course is a long one, has its sources in the Coteau des Prairies. Red pipestone is said to exist on its banks, at three days* journey from its source. At the spot where these tvvo valleys unite, a very inte- resting fragment of rock was observed ; it was evidently out of place ; its mass was enormous ; it was of an irregular hemispherical form, about forty or fifty feet in circumference ; it had been cleft, as we thought, by lightning. The rock was blackened, and a few bushes and trees near it bore signs of having been on fire. The conflagration does not appear to have spread to a distance ; and, from its situation, the fire could scarcely i WVI '1' I'"' H ■ i ' 1 1 ^ i'i I ■;■ i. " ,; 1 i . 1 I < i i ;i t !i t i- i ; 564 EXPEDITION TO TUB have been made by a traveller. We searched in vain, during the short time that we stopped near it, for traces of fusion upon the rock. This mass is granitic, and presents very distinctly the appearance of a formation in concentric shales. Rocks were observed at some distance which, from their white colour, were presumed to be sandstone. Above the junction of the rivulet with the St, Peter, a rapid occurs in the river, called Patterson's rapid. We were at too great a distance to see it, but it is not very considerable. We were, from observations made higher up on the river, induced to consider the rocks which occasion it, as primitive. On the evening of the 18th of July, we encamped on the banks of the river. When descending into the valley from the prairie, with a view to select a suitable spot for our evening's camp, our attention was suddenly called to the new features which it displayed. High rocks of a rugged aspect arose in an insulated manner in the midst of the widened valley, through which the St. Peter winds its way. We spent the rest of the afternoon in examining them, and experienced no little satisfaction in finding them to be primitive rocks in situ. The pleasure we experienced sprang not from the mere associations of home, connected with the view of a primitive formation which we had not seen since the first five days of our journey ; but it resulted also, in a great measure, from the certainty that we had at last arrived at what we had long been looking for in vain. We had traced those scattered boulders, which lay in- sulated in the prairies, from the banks of the Muskingum to this place ; we had seen them gradually increasing in size and number, and presenting fewer signs of attri- tion as we advunct'd further on our journey. Two SOURCE OF ST. PETER'S RIVER. », 365 lis of altri- clays before, their number, size, and features, had in- duced the geologist of tlie party to predict our speedy approach to the primitive formations, and it was a pleasing confirmation of his opinions to find these rocks really in situ, within thirty miles, in a straight line, of the place where he had made this assertion. The character of these rocks was examined with care, and found very curious. It seemed as if four simple minerals, quartz, felspar, mica, and amphibole^ had united here to produce almost all the varieties of combination which can arise from the association of two or more of these minerals ; and these combinations were in such immediate contact, that the same fragment might, as we viewed one or the other end of it, be re- ferred to different rocks ; while, in some places, granite was seen perfectly well characterized, varying from the fine to the coarse-grained; in others, a gneiss, mica slate, greisen (quartz and mica), compact fels))ar (Weisstein of Werner), sienite, greenstone, and the sienite with addition of quartz, forming the amphibolic granite of D'Aubuisson, were equally well characterized. The only rock composed by the union of two of these prin- ciples which we did not observe, but which may perhaps exist there, is the graphic granite (Pegmatite, Haiiy). These rocks are not very extensive ; the circumference of the largest probably does not exceed one quarter of a mile; they rise to about thirty-five feet above the level of the water. Their form is irregular; their aspect rugged and barren compared with the fertile bottom of the valley ; their general colour is of a dark gray ; they appear to be the summit or crest of primitive rocks which lie beneath this valley, and which protrude at this place througli the superior strata. As the adjoining ; !tj|. 366 EXPEDITION TO THE I'f' f m i I- u UA 1 '^ 1 J r ' ir : 1 ;! ,1;.. tl 1 ■ ' i ; i" 't ' M i 'V-: ,1:; M i: 1 1: prairies are elevated about fifty feet above the level of the river, these primitive rocks are observable only in the valley ; they doubtless constituted at one time a con- tinuous ridge, but have been divided into insulated masses by the corroding action of the stream, whose very cir- cuitous bed winds between them. They extend upon a distance of about six miles in the direction of the valley. After having examined almost every one of these masses, we feel unwilling to decide with certainty, which of the primitive combinations predominates ; for the passage of the one into the other is more constant and more sudden than in any other primitive formation that has ever come under our notice. Indeed, we know of none with which to compare it, except it be that which we observed at a subsequent period of the expedition, between Lake Winnepeek and the Lake of the Woods j but even there the features were somewhat different, for they were on a larger scale. The passages which we there observed, were sometimes to be traced only upon large masses ; whereas on the St. Peter, it would have been difficult to break off a fragment of a cubic foot in size presenting an uniform character of composition. It is, however, probable, as far as our observations extended, that granite is the predominating rock. These masses bear very evident signs of a crystalline origin, but the process must have been a confused one. Tourmaline is found disseminated throughout the rock, yet in no great abun- dance. In one or two spots where the mass assumed a more slaty appearance than in other places, a faint tendency to a stratification, directed from north-north- east to south-south-west, with a dip towards the south, was observed. Viewing the insulated masses from the prairie, they appeared to be directed in a transverse line SOITRCB OF ST. PKTER S RIVER. 367 through the valley, and in a north-easterly course, so that this may be the remains of a dike which existed across the valley, but which was finally broken. This observation was, however, a partial one, and it would be improper to attach much weiglit to it. When calling the attention of our guide to the difference between these rocks and those observed below, he appeared to have been aware of it himself, and stated that rocks similar to these extended down the valley, to about four miles below Redwood rivulet ; it was partly from this circumstance that we inferred that Patterson's rapids were probably formed by a bar of these rocks rising across the bed of the river. This appeared to us to be the more probable from the circumstance that a rapid, known by the name of the Little Falls, occurs just above the place of our encampment of the 18th, and that it is occasioned by a ledge of granitic rocks, over which the river passes at this place. In the examination of this spot two points appeared to us chiefly to deserve our attention, in order to avoid all source of error ; the first was to ascertain that the rocks were really in situ; the second, that they were primitive and crystalline, not conglomerated or regenerated rocks, such as are some- times observed. But upon these two points we think that not the least doubt can be entertained. The im- mense mass of these insulated rocks, the uniform height to Which they attain, the uniform direction in which they lie, prove them to be in place; while an attentive in- spection of their nature shows them to be really crystal- line. There is a gradual though rapid passage of the granite into the sienite, which proves them to be of contemporaneous formation, and which precludes the !■■ if r I ■■( III i'lji ! ' ■ '1 ^'' 'IM ■ ''in iij IMH 368 liXPRDITION TO TIIK f . i { ■'i 5 1' 1 ''{• ?» ; '•1 1 i ii.l.i |!' I ^ 1 i I ; I i:':; ... . \ .H ;i ■ . ■ 'U idea tliat the rock is formed by the union of fragments of granite, sienile, &c. cemented together. Thediscovery of this granitic formation here appeared to us the more interesting, as its small extent might easily have prevented us from observing it, had not chance brought us to the river at this place ; for if we had been travelling on the prairie, within half a mile of the edge of the bank, the greater height of the bluff would have concealed these rocky islands from our view. We feel, therefore, unable to decide, whether they do not recur at some of the other bends of the river, which we avoided ; yet, from the character of the stream itself, we doubt it ; for we tind that as soon as these rocks protrude into the valley, they occasion rapids and falls in the river, while otlierwise its coiu'se is smooth. Had we not seen the " Little rapids,*' which we passed on the 11th, we might have been induced to consider them as resulting from the appearance of the primitive rocks at the surface, but having examined with care the sandstone rocks, by which they are produced, and having ascertained that no other rapids are found in the St. Peter, between these and the Patterson falls, we are induced to believe that this is the only place Avhere the granite may be seen in situ. In attempting to con- nect this primitive formation with those observed else- where, we find that it lies in a direction about west- south-west, at a distance probably not exceeding eighty miles, of the " granitic and hornblende rocks," vhich Mr. Schoolcraft states as having seen "occasionally rising in rugged peaks and beds," on the Mississippi.* We feel, however, disposed to consider all this section * Schoolcraft's Narrative, ut supra, p. 288. SOUUCK OF ST. I'ETKU S HIVKR. 309 of our country as reposing on this granite, and we entertain but little doubt of its identity with the sienitic granite observed at u later period of our journey, and which we first struck near Fort Alexander, at the mouth of Winnepeek river. The 'atitude of our encampment on the banks of the St. Peter, that evening, was determined by observations to be 44" 41' 26" north. The variation of the compass at this place was 12'' 21' 20" east. From the interesting features which the valley dis- played at this spot, the geologist felt desirous that the [jarty should ascend along the banks of the river, with a view to examine these granitic masses, should they recur ; but this was deemed impracticable, on account of the length of time which would be consumed in following the bends of the river. The reports which we had previously received of the abundance of game, had not been confirmed ; we had, on the contrary, found none at all, and our stores were wasting away too fast to permit any delay. It was then proposed to di- vide the party, and, while the main body proceeded with the necessary expedition towards the trading establish- ments at the head of the river, to allow the geologist, with one or two companions, to continue his route in the valley. But this Major Long did not deem prudent, for in the present dissatisfied disposition of the Sisitons, the division of the party must necessarily expose it to be cut off by them, should they fall in with it. The regret which this occasioned was, however, dissipated, on observing that the primitive rocks did not continue long in the valley ; for having been allowed to travel along the banks of the river for half a day, Mr. Keating saw the last of them, at about four miles above the little VOL. I. 2 b ,* •: 370 KXPEUITION TO THB f I ^ falls ; and he was assured by his guide that they did not recur for a considerable distance. We had, neverthe- less, an opportunity of seeing from u distance, in the bed of the river, a rocky island, which appeared to us to bear the character of the primitive rocks near Patter- son's rapids. Our guides insisted that it was a sand- stone. We have generally found them to be such accurate observers of natural objects, that we wished to visit the rock, and see how far their reports could be depended u|)on ; but that would have required several hours, — a waste of time which it was thought the object did not warrant. In the evening we again observed the primitive rocks in the valley, and encamped upon one of these knolls ; it was composed of a rock partaking alternately of the characters of mica slate and gneis, which appeared stratified nearly east and west, the strata being almost vertical. This knoll was so small, that we could not presume, from the direction of its strata, to draw conclusions as to that of the rock in general. The occurrence of these primitive knobs disturbs the current of the river, and renders the navigation difficult and hazardous. Five miles below the encampment of the 19th^ there is a place where the boats and their loads are carried for the distance of a mile ; from which cir- cumstance the place is called the Grand Portage. By this portage the canoes avoid thirteen rapids ; these, with twenty-six other rapids, constitute all the obstruc- tions to the navigation of the river, from its source to its mouth. In a good stage of the waters, there are, however, but two portages, of which this is one. Among the tributaries passed on that day, only one deserves to be mentioned j it is called the Pejehata Zeze* Watapan , * Pejehdt^ Zeze. SOURCK OK ST. PKTKU'S RIVKR. 371 the yellow medicine. It is about the same size as the Red- wood, and rise?, in like maiinei*, at the base of the Coteau des Prairies. Nearly opposite to it a small stream falls in ; the Indians call it the Chataba* (thut liatchcs sparrow- haivksji the traders term it UEau de Fie. On our map we have retained the term Epcrvier, which, being in use among some of the traders, and intelligible both to French and English travellers, appears likely to prevail. While riding across the prairie that day, we were met by two Indians, who ran towards us witli great speed. They proved very friendly in their disposition, and in- formed us, that on the preceding day they had killed a buffalo bull in that vicinity, and that the Indians on Lake Travers had already killed many, the buffalo beingunusu- ally abundant that season. This news was the more grati- fying to the party, as they had been for the last few days on short allowance. Having informed the Indians of tlie spot where we proposed to encamp, they came to it in the evening with their families, and pitched their tents near ours ; they then offered us a feast, which we of course accepted, and at which we partook of the buffalo meat, that had been cut into long and thin slices, about one-eighth of an inch thick, eight inches wide, and eighteen long. These had been jerked in the sun, and were subsequently boiled without salt, and served out to us in wooden dishes. It was tough and tasteless, and disappointed those gentlemen of the party who had never eaten of the buffalo meat, and who had heard it highly extolled ; this disappointment arose, however, from the circumstance of its being jerked, instead of fresh meat. What remained of the feast was, according f i i!U ^.e* Watapan , • ChhibL 2 B 2 a72 K\i>KI)ll'IO> l<> IMK i ^it;ri to [\\c Indian usage, our property, and we tliereforo hud it conveyed to our tentsi. The feast was usliend in with the usual ceremonies of shaking hands, smoking, ike. Tlie St. Teter dwindles Into a very small stream, prohably not more than fifteen or twenty yards wide in any part, above I'atterson's rapi(U\ It is fonlable every where. The valley presents a fine rich soil, rather swam|>y in places, and covered with high grass ami wild rice; it is nluii woody. Wherever the primitive rocks are found, they are bare. The trees consist principally of cotton wood and ash. In the prairies Mr. Say found the spotted frog (liana halecina of Kalm and Daudin), figured by Catesby. It was very i)lentiful near the marshes. The young whip-|)oor-wiIl was found at that time nearly strung enough to fly The moscpietocs in- creased in abundance and virulence as we advanced. A short day's journey brought the party to the Lnr qui parle, which is an expansion of the river about seven and a ludf miles long, and from one quarter to three quarters of a mile wide. The name of this lake is a translation of the Indian appellation Menda e a,-^ but whence it has received it we know not. We have not been able to discover or to hear of any remarkable echo in its vicinity, which might have given rise to it. It is not, we believe, an uncomiuon name for Indians, and we know of at least one river that has a somewhat analogous appellation ; it is the Riviere quiappelle,[x tributary of the Assiniboin, and whose Indian name has merely beeu translated by the traders. Previous to reaching Lac qui jiarle, we passed^wo small tributaries of the St. Peter, on the right bank; one of which is called by the traders Beaver, by the Indians Watapan intapa,t which " signifies the river at the head," as they • Mlnd^ ^ A. t int4pjl. SOUMCE OK ST. FKIKIl >< HIVKIl. a73 a somewhat consider the lake to be the head of the St. Peter. Six miles above our eiicampincnt of the 19th, a larj^er stream, called by some Chippewa river, but by the Dacotas MeaWahkan* Watapan, the Kiver of the Spirit Banks, falls in from tlie left side. The Mea VVahkan is said to take its rise near the head waters of Red river, with which it interlocks. On Beaver rivulet, the bank, which was high and steep, was found to consist of loose white sand. Near this bank there were seven or eight artificial tumuli, all placed on a straight line except one, which wa!> in advance of the others. On the two largest, which were live feet high, and thirty feet in diameter at the base, recent graves, of a kind now much used by the Indians, were observed. In these the corpse is de- posited in a very shallow excavation, or more frecpiently upon the surface of the ground, and stakes are placed over it, forming a sort of a roof. These stakes are very necessary to protect the remains of the dead against the rapacity of wolves, who, if they were merely interred, would dig them up. In this case, notwithstanding the great strength of the stakes, the grave had been broken open, and Its contents scattered over the ground. The wolves appear to be very abundant in these prairies. We have frequently heard them barking in the night, and occasionally seen them. Two young wolves were seen near Beaver rivulet, and easily caught by the soldiers, to whom a reward was offered if they would carry them alive to Mackinaw ; but they both nuide their escape during the night. In the dull monotony of a journey across the prairie, destitute of interest, and un- interrupted by any incident, the capture of these wolves created such a sensation in the party as will not be * Mei wAhkin. 2 B .S I' >'mi f I*: J rc! H I ;, ■' I ■. f i r I i ( nil i; if. ! 'i I 3 374 KXI'KOi'floN K) I UK readily conceived by those who have not experienced how eagerly man seizes the first opportunity of being relieved from his own thoughts, when he has been left to the uninterrupted exercise of them for a certain length of time. We spent half a day in the vicinity of Lac qui parle ; our tents were pitched on an eminence near the lower extremity of the lake, commanding an extensive pros- pect, adorned with this beautiful sheet of water. The country, as we advanced, evidently became more elevated, but no hills of any magnitude were visible except the bluffs of the rivers and rivulets. The eleva- tion to which they attain frequently equals, and some- times exceeds, one hundred feet. The precipices, to which these bluffs give rise, are the boundaries of ex- tensive and undulated plains, destitute of woods ; trees are only seen skirting the banks of the water-courses. Above the lake the bluffs diminish in height ; those along the valley of the St. Peter not exceeding forty feet ; in some cases they disappear, and gentle slopes blend gradually the prairie and the valley of the river. At ihe :tpper end of the lake, the St. Peter has lost all its characters ; it is a rivulet of from twenty to thirty feet wide ; its bed is very much obstructed with high grass and wild rice ; its waters are almost stagnant. Five leagues above this, a brook from the right bank joins with the St. Peter ; this is called the Hra Wahkan,* or Spirit Mountain, from the name of a hill near which it rises. The primitive rocks are again seen in place, scattered here and there across the valley ; one of these was remarkable for the beauty of its felspar, which is very lamellar ; it has an easy cleavage, and is inter- * Hri Wdlikdn. SOURCE OF ST. I»ETi£U S RIVKK. 376 mixed with quartz, giving it almost the appearance of a graphic granite. As we advanced, the rocks assumed a more decided character, and were found to be princi- pally either a common or a sienitic granite. Besides those in place, vast numbers of fragments of primitive rocks, presenting little or no alteration, lie scattered in every direction, and attest that this has been the seat of a great destruction. An Indian family was met near the banks of the river, who stated that they had de- scended it in order to ascertain the prospect of the ensuing harvest of wild rice, and informed us that it was very promising ; the grain, they thought, would be ripe in the middle of August ; the weather was, in fact, very favourable to its growth, the temperature having kept up for the last few days at nearly 90°. We were likewise informed by them that an inroad had been made by the lower Sisitons upon the lands of the Sauks on the Des Moines river, and that, not meeting with their enemies, they had attacked the lawas, killed a number, and taken many prisoners. It is interesting, as we proceed, to ftnd that the same devotional spirit which we observed below still exists. Many rocks are used as consecrated spots, at which the Indian pauses to offer a sacrifice to the ruling spirits. A very large block, covered with circles, crescents, and crosses, designed witli red paint, was considered sacred to the heavenly bodies, and these marks were held to be designations of the sun, moon, and stars. The party was likewise occasionally gladdened with a view of fresh tracks of the buffalo. On the 22d we reached another, and the last, expan- sion of the river. It is also improperly called a lake; 2 B 4 u ^1 ( ■ t lit!' :"■ '$ II I :. 'ft l!i- ilf f \ \ i f . !! - 't it 376 KXPKOriK^N TO TIIK by the Indians it is termed Eatakeka,* which 1ms been interpreted " Lac dcs u^rosses Roches," Big Stone Lake. Our view to the west was this day bounded by an exten- sive ridge or swell in the prairies, known by the name of the ** Cdteau des Prairies." It is distant from our course about twenty or thirty miles ; its height above the level of the St. Peter is probably not short of one thousand feet. According to the best information which we have obtained, this ridge commences about the 49th parallel of north latitude, and between the 98th and 99th degrees of west longitude from Greenwich. It pro- ceeds in a direction nearly south -south-east, passes east of the group of small lakes called Devil Lake, divides the tributaries of the St. Peter from those of the Missouri, and extends southerly as far as the head of the Blue Earth, where it gradually widens and sinks to the level of the surrounding country. A second ridge, or C6teau des Prairies, is said to run in a direction nearly parallel to that which we have just described. It commences at the southern bend of Mouse river, near the 48th parallel of latitude, and proceeds in a course nearly south-east for about eighty miles, when it turns to the west of south, and continues proba- bly beyond the 44th, where it likewise sinks and dis- appears. In the valley between these two ridges, the Riviere dc Jacques, or James River, runs and empties itself into the Missouri about the 43d degree of latitude. Thus the C6teau des Prairies may probably be consi- dered as changing the course of the Missouri, above the Mandan villages, from an easterly to a southerly direc- tion, and as keeping it in tJ':\t direction for nearly three • E'StAkcki 'V' iiii SOrUCIi OK ST. I'K'I'KIl S> UIVKH. 377 hundred miles, when the river reassiiines a course east uf south, which it Keeps until it unites with the Missis- sippi. It is to the vicinity of the Cdteau to the St. Peter on the one side, and of tlie Mississippi on the other, tliat we are to attrihute the small size of the tribu- taries of the St. Peter. In fact, they are mere brooks conveying the waters on the east side of the ridge ; but, probably, about the spring of the year, they are much swollen by the thawing of the snow and ice upon the ridge ; it is in this manner that we may account for the water- marks found along the bluffs which inclose their comparatively large valleys. Its distance from our course prevented us from visit- ing tlie C6teau, which we should otherwise have done. It was intended that Mr. Keating should examine this remarkable feature in the eor.ntry, in order to ascertain what its geological characters arc j but as we were gene- rally informed that no rocks are seen at its surface, that it presents an uniformly smooth prairie-like a|)pearance, the ascent being gradual and easy on both sides, and as it would liave taken three days to go to its summit and return, this excursion was not made. The C6teau des Prairies may truly be considered as the dividing ridge between the tributaries of the Missis- sippi and those of the Missouri. It is probably formed by the eievation of the granitic or other primitive rocks above the usual level of the prairies. These may have been covered in a mantled-formed manner by the secon- dary and alluvial rocks, so as to be entirely concealed from view, and to be nuule to assume the general fea- tures of prairie land. We cannot, however, resist the belief, that a geologist who would follow it in its whole course from the Assiniboin to the Blue Earth, would be fM)) ^1! ■■■I ' :>!.. 1 378 EXPEDITION TO THK i< ' % t h' ■IS '■ h' i Mi rewarded by the discovery of the granitic formations, if not along the whole of its crest, at least in some of the ra- vines which head near it, and in which perhaps a super- position of secondary rocks might be observed. After having left the Big Stone Lake, we crossed a brook which retains the name of the St. Peter, but which cannot be considered as part of that river ; the St. Peter may, in fact, be said lo commence in Big Stone Lake, and this to be but a small tributary from the C6teau des Prairies; it was less than seven yards Avide. This stream soon leaves the main valley and turns to the west, where a lateral trench in the prairie, known by the name of a " Coulee," gives it a passage. Had we visited the Cdteau, we should have ascended this CoulSe, to trace the stream to its source. It divides itself, as we are informed, into two branches ; one of which runs in a direction west by south for about twelve miles. The source of the northern and larger branch is in Polecat Lake, about twice that distance, and bearing, from the point at which it leaves the main valley, about west by north. The length of the stream, following all its wind- ings, is about forty or fifty miles. Polecat Lake, whose dimensions arc one and a half mile in length by half a mile in breadth, is frequently dry, and the stream often conveys but little water to the Big Stone Lake. By the route which we travelled, the distance from the mouth of the St. Peter to the head of Big Stone Lake is three hundred and twenty-five miles, of which we as- cended one hundred and thirty by water. We entertain no doubt that the distance, in a direct line by land, would fall short of two hundred and thirty miles; and that the whole length of the river, including all its bends, does not exceed five hundred miles. The traders, whose 1 1 .! I SOUUCK OK SJ\ I'KTKU ^ lUVEK. 379 estimates almost always exceed the triitli, do not ascribe to it a length of more than six hundred miles. How different these observations are from the opinions for- merly entertained of this stream, may be judged from the assertion of Breckenridge, that it is a thousand miles long. Other authors allow it twelve hundred miles. Carver states it, on the authority of the Indians, to take its rise in the same neighbourhood as, and within the space of a mile of, the source of the Missouri; he adds that the northern branch rises from a number of lakes near the Shining Mountains. But we can place no dependence upon the information which he gives from second-hand, when we find it blended with such fictions as are con- tained in the following extract : " The river St. Pierre, which runs through the territory of the Naudowessies, flows through a most delightful country, abounding with all the necessaries of life, that grow spontaneously, and with a little cultivation it might be made to produce even the luxuries of life. Wild rice grows here in great abundance, and every part is filled with trees, bending under their loads of fruits, such as plums, grapes, and apples. The meadows are covered with hops and many sorts of vegetables, while the ground is stored with useful roots, with angelica, spikenard, and ground-nuts as large as hens' eggs.'* We were not so fortunate as to meet with those apples, plums, and other good things, which grew spontaneously sixty years since in the country. The St. Peter, in our opinion, probably never can be made a commodious stream ; for although it flows over gradations, and not upon a slant, yet, as these gradations are accumulated into the upper third of the distance be- tween Big Stone Lake and the mouth of the river, the :':i It! ■'! |-:!; ■ ■:! 'Ill i I 1 i ■' i I j (i ^ 1 , t, < 1" 11^ il .i- !ili "I )V:! Mil ,11 u 380 Kxi'KniTioN TO rnii expense of rendering it iiuvii^able, by damming and locking, wonld far excee'3i ,1 "iM 384 KM'KDITION TO TIIK f < ll ,! s the tribes of the Dac'otas. Their chief being absent, the principal man among them told us that they had thirty lodges of their people at the lower end of the lake, an 389 one of the best of which we had ever partaken.. Our hosts were gratified and flattered at the quantity which we ate ; the residue of the feast M'as sent to our soldiers. In this, and every other instance^ where we have been Invited to a feast by the Indians, we observed that they never eat with their guests. Tatanka Wechacheta is the nephew of a man of considerable distinction among the Walikpatoan Dacotas. Since the death of his uncle, which took pUice lately, he has attempted to be considered as his successor ; but the former was never duly acknowledged as chief, this title residing in Nunpakca, a man of considerable bravery, who, by the influence of his family and of his talents, acquired that dignity, in preference to his first cousins, on the death of their father. Our host boasted of the many flags and medals. which his imclchad obtained from our government, and which were then in his possession ; these, and the influence of his great magician, niiiy probably secure to him the dignity to which he aspires, if he has talent enough to uphold it. After the feast was over, our host rose, shook hands v^ith all the gentlemen of our party, then resumed his seat, and delivered a speech, which, at the time, appeared to us very pertinent and interesting. It was delivered with apparent feeling, but not without some hesitation ; his gestures were vehement and unmeaning. Having expressed to Renville our satisfaction at the speech, he immediately observed that it expressed too much adulation, and too much whining ; had Tatanka Wechacheta been the chief that he professed himself to be, his tone would have been more imposing, and his style more dignified and decisive. We have preserved the following very imperfect sketch of this speech :—> 2 c 3 ;, I i I I ! i I tU I Hi ■! ii-i -!. 1:^ 390 KXP£DIT]UN TO THH " Brothers, The subject, upon whicli I am to address you, is grievous to me ; and this grief is the motive which has thus far prevented me from speaking to you. Since the lamented death of my revered uncle, who died last year, I have been called upon to succeed to him, but as I am not endued with experience to know how to direct myself, I shall follow the advice which I ha^e received from him, and therefore I rejoice at seeing you, and I am gratitied by your visit. " I regret that my followers are now all absent. This is not the season when we, the Indians, are together ; this is our hunting season. In the autumn, we collect in our villages to meet the traders. Had you seen us thus collected, you would have found me at the head of a large and powerful band of men, at present I am alone ; still I am pleased to see you. *' Brothers, There are two roads which we the Dacotas usually travel ; my uncle trod both these paths. The first led him to the British, far towards the rising sun. From them he received both kindness and honour ; they made him many presents, among which were flags and medals. The other road led him to the Americans at St. Louis ; this road he subsequently travelled. From them he, in like manner, received flags and medals. These he has bequeathed all to me. " I should have unfurled my flags at your approach, but I am unacquainted with the customs of ^our nation, and I am new in the duties of my rank. I am ignorant how to act ; but I am desirous of following the advice of n\y dying uncle, who bade me remain at peace with the Americans, and always consider them as my friends ; and as suob I hold you. " My Friends, I am poor and very destitute ; not so i! i I! SOURCB OF ST. PETKR S RIVKR. a9t was lUy uncle. But I have as yet followed neither of the roads which he travelled. Since I have been called upon to rule over my people, I have dwelt among them, and have not been able to visit St. Louis, in order to ob- tain presents of powder and tobacco. " I have already told you that my followers are absent. They are hunting to the north ; I have left with them my flags ; I know not whither you are going ; but I presume you may meet with them. They will exhibit to you my flags; and you will know them, for they are those of your nation. I shall send them word of your intention to travel that way, and bid them, if they see you, treat you with becoming respect, assist you, supply you with j)rovi5ions, and with whatever else you may require. " My Friends, I am poor, and could not do much j but 1 have prepared this little feast ; you have partaken of it, and it has gratified me. I am young and inexperienced in speaking, but I have done my best. Again, I thank you for your flattering visit." if 2 c 4 N :; in f . i i i f.i ;-r ' ■ ' i 1 : ' ■ 1 ' : 1. f; I '' } ■ ; 'I ■ I u !• ! ih :m h.XI'KI)ITION TO TllK CHAPTER VIII. ^r count of the Dacotas or Sioux Indians. Their divi- sions into tribes. Their numbers^ language, manners, njul customs. Notice of tfanatun^ princijiol chief of the Yunldoanan tribe. Description of the Columbia Fur Omtpanj/'s establishment on Lake Travel's. WE have collected together all the information which we have obtained on tl»e subject of the Dacotas. It re- sults, either from our own observations, or from con- versations with those able to communicate facts, either at Prairie du Chien, Fort St. Anthony, or LakeTravers. He who has contributed most to it is Renville; we are aware that all the information which he has given us cantiot be depended upon. He was uneducated, not free from prejudices, not entirely exempt from the superstitions of his mother's countrymen. His oppor- tunities of improvement, but more especially his in- (juiringmind, had made him scej)tical upon many points; still upon some he appeared credulous: we believe it not im})ossible, that he may sometimes have attempted to give information which he did not possess, or to ex- aggerate truths into fictions. We, at the time, carefully recorded all that he told us, and have since made use of such parts only as appeared to us correct, endeavouring to omit all that may have sprung from ignorance, credu- lity, or a taste for the marvellous. The Dacotas are a large and powerful nation of Indians, distinct in their manners, language, Iiabits, and opi- nions, frouj the ChippewasjSauks, Foxes, and Naheawak or Killisteno. as well as from all nations of the Algonquin SOURCK OF isT, PKTKilS IllVKK. 393 Their divi- e, mannersy $tock. They are likewise unlike the Pawnees and the Minnetarees or Gros Ventres. They inhahit a large tract of country which may be comprised within the fol- lowing limits:— From Prairie du Chien on the Missis- sippi by a curved line extending east of north, and made to include all the eastern tributaries of the Mississippi, £o the first branch of Chippewa river; the head waters of that stream being claimed by the Chippewa Indians j thence by a line running west of north to the head of Spirit Lake ; thence by a westerly line to the Rivi6re de Cor- beau J thence up that river to its head near Otter-tail Lake ; thence by a westerly line to Red River, and down that river to Pembina ; thence by a south-westerly line to the east bank of the Missouri near the Mandan vil- lages; thence down the Missouri* to a point probably not far from Soldier's River ; thence by a line running east of north to Prairie du Chien. This tract includes about seven degrees of latitude, viz. from the 42*^ to the 49«, and nine of longitude, viz. from 90^ 30' to QO*' d^. These boundaries, as well as all the subsequent facts M'hich we shall state, do not apply to the Assiniboins, a revolted band of the Dacotas, who separated from them a long time ago, and who reside to the north of the 49th degree of latitude. We will have occasion to recur to them hereafter. This immense extent of country is inhabited by a na- tion calling themselves, in their internal relations, the Dacota,f which means the allied, but who, in their ex- ternal relations style themselves the Ochente Shakoan,| II i! 'f,'! * According to Lewis and Claike, they hunt on both banks of the Mis- souri and its tributaries, from the '13d to the 'tTth degree of latitude, (vol. 1. p. 01.) \ Dacota. t Ochent^ Sh^k6ati. 1. 1 ; ll 1! I ' : "'.. iSI! 394 KXPKDITION TO THB which signifies the nation of seven (council) fires. This refers to the following division which formerly prevailed among them, viz. 1. Mende Wahkan toan, or people of the Spirit Lake. 2. Wahkpa toan, or people of the Leaves. 3. Sisi toan, or Mia Keckakesa. 4. Yank toan an, or Fern leaves. 5. Yank toan, or descended from the Fern leaves. 6. Ti toan, or Braggers. 7* Wahkpako toan, or the people that shoot at leaves. These form two great divisions, which have been dis- tinguished by the traders into the names of Gens du Lac, and Gens du Large. Those that resided about Spirit Lake, and who are now principally found along the banks of the Mississppi ; and those that rove in the prai- ries ; these may be considered as including all the six last tribes. All the Dacotas speak the same language ; yet some distinctions of the nature of dialects appear to prevail in some words, as spoken by the roving or by the stationary Indians. From the circumstance of these differences being trifling, we are led to believe, that the seven tribes were originally one, and that the name of Dacota, or allied, must not be considered as implying an union or amalga- mation of different nations. We hope that we shall not be accused of indulging in a fanciful comparison, when we observe that we see, in the use of this word by them, the same meaning as it has with us ; probably they sprung from one common root, divided into tribes ac cording to their local distribution upon the surface of the country, and then, speaking the same language, and having the same enemies, they found it convenient to unite in one confederacy for their mutual safety. We SOURCK OV ST. PKTKR S RIVJSK. ;m do notj however^ profess to have a fiuflicient acquaint- ance with their language, or with philology in general, to decide the question. Perhaps one skilled in this sci- ence could discover in their language a combination of several originally distinct tongues. If such ever existed, all recollection of it has been effaced among them. To ascertain the number of any Indian tribe has al- ways been considered one of the greatest desiderata, but at the same time one of very difficult attainment. The numbers of this nation have been variously stated by different travellers. We have had no opportunity of forming any opinion of our own on this subject ; but they have been represented to us by all who knew them as extremely numerous. We have already stated, in another place, that we had seen lodges large enough to hold fifty inhabitants. We have likewise to observe, ^hat they chiefly subsist upon the buffalo, an animal which exists in herds ^ of tens of thousands on the prai- ries between the Missouri and Mississippi, and which, within a few years past, was extremely abundant east of the Mississippi ; from this it may be argued, that the means of subsistence far exceed the consumption of a much larger population than has ever been ascribed to the Dacotas. It must likewise be remembered, that it is a characteristic of the Indian never to destroy more than he can consume ; in this, differing much from the white hunter, who will frequently kill a buffalo for its tongue or its marrow bones, leaving the rest of the animal as a . ' i!i * The tenn band, as applied to a herd of buffalo, has almost become tecb- iiical, being the only one in use in the west. It ie derived from the French term bande. H k :f i [l |-^!1 if 'i e hides are ons we will otas, as fiir- er, that it is Warriors. Souls. 70 400 25 100 70 300 40 200 30 150 60 300 10 50 260 1000 200 800 240 900 450 1500 1300 5200 500 2000 3600 14,400 200 ^055 800 28,100 '000 ,055 28,000 56, ICO . Previous to their division the Assiniboins belonged to the Yanktoanan tribe. The above estimate falls somewhat short of that which Renville made some time before, when he was in the service of the Hudson's Bay Company. He then visited all the Dacota villages, camps, &c. and by a close calcu- lation estimated the number of warriors, exclusive of the Assiniboins, at 7,600. This band, having always been es- timated at very nearly the same number as all the other Dacotas, will give an aggregate (according to these data), of 15,000 warriors. Admitting the proportion of one-fourth the nation able to bear arms, which is pro- bably very near the truth, it would give as a total 60,000 souls; who would occupy about 6000 lodges. In counting the lodges we allude to the skin tents which contain from eight to ten individuals, young and old ; for the permanent cabins on the Mississippi contain from three to ten families each, and it is said that one cabin, has, in some cases, furnished from fifteen to twenty warriors. As almost every traveller, who has visited the Dacotas, has given a different enumeration of their divisions ; some reckoning but seven, while others admit as many as twenty-one tribes; it may be well to observe that this distribution into fifteen parties is merely introduced with a view to facilitate a better acquaintance with the nation. We believe that there are but seven tribes among the Dacotas, as their name of Ochente Shakoan implies ; the divisions which we have admitted in the Mende Wahkau- toan, are probably not very important, and we know that similar ones exist among the several tribes of roving Dacotas ; we have no doubt that the Tetoans are divided I 39d HXPKDITION TO THH I!' P \n II 1 ' - ' ■ il : i ) 1 ■' 1 :■ i ;. ■If ;' 1 ■ ; t i [ i i 1 ' 1 , i' ■ ■ J f t , 1 * : ' i :? < 1 '^ i hr L: it; 1 i: =■ . ■■ ' i ■ ' ' >l ■;■ fl IL i 1 into many parties, such as the Tetons of the Burnt v^ood, the Tetons Olcandandas, Tetons Mennakenozzo, Tetons Saone, &c. as enumerated by Lewis and Clarke. If we have not made use of any of these divisions in most of the other tribes, it is because we could not obtain them so accurately, and also because they are less important t a hunter, who has no fixed residence, will willingly pass from one party of Indians to another, belonging to the same tribe as he does, and this he will be ready to do at any time ; but he who has his lodge, his cornfields, &c. is much more inclined to attach himself to the village in which he lives ; and, accordingly, we find that the resi- dences of the Dauotas, on the Mississippi, &c. are still, for the most part, kept up in the same places, where Carver saw them in 1766. The population of the Dacotas varies, according to the different travellers. Carver estimates the Naudowessies of the plains, (independent of those of Spirit lake), at upwards of two thousand; but as he includes in these the Shiennes and Omawhaws, who, at present at least, form distinct nations, it is evident that we ckn draw no conclusion from his statement. Lewis and Clarke esta- blish their numbers at about two thousand five hundred and fifty warriors, which upon the data of one warrior to four souls, admits a population of about ten thousand; but this is undoubtedly far under the truth. Pike states their population at twenty-one thousand six hundred and seventy-five, including three thousand eight hun- dred and thirty-five warriors. We believe the aggregate which he gives is nearly correct, but that he allows too few warriors. Among such Indians as have partially ac- quired habits of civilized life, the proportion of one war- SOUnCK UK ST. PKTKU S HIVKK. 399 rior in Ave souls may be very nearly true ; but among the roving bands, which constitute the majority of the Dacotas, we would not admit the ratio to be leia than one to four ; for the number of children and old men 19 proportionally much smaller. Youths are, at a very early age, counted as warriors ; probably every male, above the age of sixteen, may, in reality, be enumerated as such.* ' . From these observations we are led to adroit, tliat the population of the Sioux nation cannot be under twenty* five thousand souls, and that it includes at least six thou- sand warriors. The following synopsis of the usual residence of the Dacotas, and of the actual state of the villages or parties above alluded to, may be of use as a term of comparison for future travellers. 1. Keoxa. — Their chief is Wapasha ; they liave two villages on the Mississippi, (one on lawa river, the other near Lake Pepin) ; they hunt on both banks of the Mis-, sissippi, near Chippewa river and its tributaries. The chief holds his situation by hereditary tenure ; his father was a great warrior ; the present chief is a wise man, addicted to agriculture. Keoxa signifies ^' relationship overlooked," because they unite or have connexion be> tween nearer relations than the other Dacotas ; first cousins, uncles, and nieces, and even brothers and sis* ters intermarry. 2. Eanbosandata means ** vertical rock," from a rock on Cannon River. Their chief is Shakea, who has * J 'I • Vide Carver, ut supra, p. 30— Lewis and Clarke, vol. i, p. 60 — Pike, appendix to Part I, p> 66. H im KXIKDMION TO TIIK I'l m J V \ ! . ■! r |i i , ' f ' i '■"''''*■ !. ■ j ; pi :' 1-. 'S !if i ■ always been considered as dependent upon Wapasim ; he rose to his station by military talents. They have two small village<>, one on the Miftsi^sippi, the other on Cannon river ; they hunt on the head waters of that stream. . 3. Kapoja means " light ;" they are supposed to be more active than the other Dacotas. Their present cliiet' is a very distinguished man, and belongs to one of the oldest families of chiefs among the Dacota?, he beiiit; the fourth of his family in direct line. At a meeting uf many Indian nations, which took place at Lake Travers about four or five years ago, there were present, besides some men from all the tribes of Dacotas, many from tin* Assiniboins, Mandans, Minnetarees, Iawu$s, and other nations, who all addressed him by the name of '' Fa- ther," acknowledging thereby, not only his superiority over all the other Dacota chiefs, but even that of the Da- cota nation over theirs. At this meeting they exchanged and renewed pledges of friendship^ &c. The festivities which lasted about a fortnight, consisted of dances, songs, and repasts ; the principal feast was celebrated on the 25th of June. Buffaloes were then very abundant in the country, and a great number were killed. The chief to whom the flatle. ng distinction of Father was thus applied, is the same that is generally called Petit Corbeau by the traders, Chetanwakoamanc by the Da- cotas.^ Renville interpreted for this Indian at the time when he visited the Drummonds island, in 1815. He reproached the British government for the situation in * Tliis chief formed one of the deputation who visited the City of Wasli- ington, in July, 1821. iiOLIU li OK Sr. PKTKU S RIVKU. ^01 le City of Wasli- wliicli tlioy left (lie Indians. When told by Colonel M'Coy, the ItidicUi Uifent for tlic British, that he acted in compliunce with one of the stipulations in the treaty with the United States, the chief re|)Iicd, that the Bri- tish government had deceived them ; they were at peace wi(h the Americans in 1812: hut they had been excited to acts of hostility; at the time that he spoke, they were at war with the Unite d States, havintj been instiia'ated to it by the British, who then deserted them. He could not believe that it was on account of their stipulations ; he summoned then) to fulfil their promises, or he must charj,a' them with fraud and cowardice, ^^'hen he was invited to settle in Canada, and assured of support ami maintenance fur himself and his band, he indi.cj^nantiy replied, that he required none of their suj)port; he would fight, and himself obtain peace for his nation, and they would support themselves upon their own lands. The Kapoja Indians have but one village, which is on tlie Mississippi, below the St. Peter j they hunt on the St. Croix river. 4. Oanoska signifies great avenue. Wan)en(letanka, (War Eagle,) their chief, was formerly a dependant on Petit Corbeau. He has but one village on the St. Peter; he htuits on the Mississippi, above the Falls of St. An- thony. 5. Ti:tankatane, (Old Village.) This isthe oldestviU lageof the Dacotas. At the time whenWapasha's father ruled over the nation, there were four hundred lodges there. Wajiusha formerly lived in th.it village, i)ut having removed from it with the greater part of his warriors, a (asv preferred remaining there, and chose one of their number as a leader. His son, Takopepe-. VOL. 1. 2d ;ll a f i Hi 402 KXPEDITION TO THE slieue,* (Dauntless,) now rules over them. He is con- sidered a dependant of the next following chief; he has but one village on the St. Peter, three miles above its mouth; he hunts on this river and the Mississippi. 6. Taoapa. The chief of this party is called Shakpa,t which means six. He inherited his station, and is a dis- tinguished man, ranking in the nation third only to Wapasha and Petit Corbeau. Helms but one village: it is situated on the St. Peter, between which river and the Mississippi he hunts. 7. Wbakaote. a small band which Is dependant upon the preceding. 8. Meakechakesa derives its name from a point in the river which has been cut oif and forms an island. Their chief is called Wahkanto, or " blue spirit ;" he rules by right of his family. His tribe has no fixed villages, no mud or bar cabins like all the preceding tribes; they reside all the year round in skin lodges, which they shift from place to place. Their chief ren- dezvous is on the Blue Earth river; they hunt upon that stream in winter ; during the summer season they pur- sue the buffalo as far as the Missouri. 9. Wahkpakota, or the " shooters at leaves," which they mistake for deer. Their last leader was Shakeska, (White Nails,) who died in 1822. This tribe has a very bad name, being considered to be a lawless set of men. Shakeska rose to his station by his military talents. They have a regular hereditary chief, Wiahuga, (the Raven,) who is acknowledged as such by the Indian agent) but who, disgusted by their misbehaviour, with- drew from them and resides at Wapasha's. This ! . i f ! Tiik&pepeshliie. f Sliukpn. 'i'i SOURCE OF ST. PETER S RIVER. 40:j measure would have been disapproved of in ordinary cases, but, owing to the bad name whicli they have, he is considered as justifiable in deserting his tribe. They have no fixed villages; they inhabit skin lodges, and rove near the head of Cannon and Blue Earth rivers. Their hunting grounds are in that viciqity and M'estward of it. 10. Wahkpatoan means ** the people beyond those that shoot at leaves," because they live higher up on the river. Nunpakca (twice flying) is the name of their chief. One of the deeds by which he has acquired respect as a warrior, was achieved at the age of twenty. He was, with a party of Dacotas, on the lands of the Chippewas, and was encamped on the edge of a lake ; an island opposite to his camp was occupied by a con- siderable party of Chippewas; in the middle of the night, he swam over alone to the island, killed one of the enemies, scalped him, and returned unobserved to Iiis friends with the scalp of his enemy, This tribe hunts near Ottertjul Lake, one of the sources of Red river. U. Kahra, (Wild Hicc.) These Indians dwell in very large and fine skin lodges. The skins are well prepared and handsomely painted. They have no permanent residence, but frequently visit Lake Travers. Their hunting grounds are on Red river. They follow Tatan- kanaje, (the Standing Buffalo,) who is a chief by here- ditary right, pnd who lias acquired distinction as a warrior. 12. Yanktoanan, (the Fern Leaves.) This is one of the most important tribes, as its population amounts to one-6fth that of the whole nation. They have no fixed residence, but dwell in fine skin lodq:os, well dressed and decorated. Their huntirg grovnuls are very extensive, 2 I) 2 ik 404 KXPKi>rn()N TO TUB ii l! " )l i t I i;| sprcadirii^ from Red river lu tlie Missouri. TliCy fre- quent, for purposes of trade, Luke Travers, B\g Stone Lake, and the Shienne river. Their principal chief is Wanotan, (the Charger,) of whom we shall speak here- after. ]'S. Yanktoan, (descended from the Fern leaves,) are in every respect similar, and probably sej)arate(l from the last mentioned. Their leader, Tatanka Yuteshene* (he who eats no buffalo), is distinguished both as an hereditary chief and as a warrior. They frecpicnt the Missouri, and generally traffic with the traders upon that river. Their hunting grounds are east of, and adjoining to, the Missouri. 14. Tetoans, (Braggers.) Accord'ng to Renville^ this tribe includes one-half of the Dacotas, and it is probably here that his calculations are most likely to be erroneous. They reside in skin lodges, and are con- stantly roving bet'veen the St. Peter and the Missouri. They trade on botli rivers, and are held to be very hostile to white men ; they are great boasters, and hence their name. They are not considered braver than the other tribes. Their chief, Chantapetaf, (Heart of Fire,) is a very powerful warrior. We mav add of the Assiniboins, whom the Dacotas call the Hoha, (revolted,) that they formerly belonged to the tribe of the Yanktoanan. They boast of having upwards of 3000 skin lodg'^s, of which Renville once saw three hundred pitched in one place. Their grounds are north of Pembina, towards the Assiniboin river, and west of Lake Winepeek. They are at war with the Blackfeet Indians, and are said to send war parties every tf': * • Tkinki Yi'itisheno. + Chtlntipita. SOUIICK OF ST. PETEil S RIVER. 405 year as far as the Rocky Mountains. Tliey have been fighting the Dacotas ever since their separation ; but there seems to be at present a mutual tendency to a reunion. Their present chief rose by his military achievements ; his name is Minayoka (Knife-hearer). The cause of the separation of the Asslniboins from their former friends is variously rehited. The following has appeared to us to be the pr(;valent tradition on this subject. It is said that, about fifty years* ago, a quar- rel arose between two influential families of the Yank- toanans, at the time that they were hunting in the vicini- ty of Lake Travers. A young man, belonging to one of these families, seduced the wife of one of the warriors of the other family, and conveyed her to his camp. The injured husband pursued them, and, in his attempt to rescue his wife, was himself slain. His fal'ier and two brothers, accompanied oy two of his uncles, went to the seducer's camp, with a view to obtain the corpse of their deceased relation. On their way to the <;amp, they met with a party of the friends of the murderer j a quarrel ensued, and three out of the five perished, without having succeeded in killing one of their oppo- nents. The distressed parent survived this conflict, and, swearing that he would avenge his losses, he betook him. self to a camp of his frienrls, stated his wrongs, and ob- tained a party of sixty warriors who marched out with him. They projiosed to the aggressor's friends to com- promise the matter, by delivering over two of tluir party to the parent, so that he might offer them as propitiatory victims to the spirits of his four departed kinsmen. This • Tlie sppamtion jjrobably occurred at a imidi earlier period. Dates are soon forgotten by Indians. IIennei)in mentions n nation of tlie Assint- poiis, who probably arc the same. Charlevoix calb thetu Assiniboils. •2 i) •{ 'im liXl'EDItlON TO THE m ; r-i -1 t * ,1 t f , 1 • I i i\\ f ■ " i \ \l 1 ■ \ i i' ■ ' i 1 \n offer having been rejected, a battle was t'uiight, in whioli the seducer lost twenty of his party ; his opponents lost but five. It Would be needless to go through the long list of engagements fought, or to reUitc how eacli party, as often as it was vanquished, swore revenge against its cneniicEs, and recruited itself among its friends. Sutficc it to sny, that the breach widened ; the nation was divide according to some interpreters, means revolted Boines, but which, by the greater number, is supposed to be derived from the Chippewa word Assin, which signifies stone. Ever since this baud has been known under the name of Assiniboin, or of Stone Indians. Whence the Chippewa derived this last appellation^ we know not; but we believe we have been told, that it was from the frequent use of stones, as ^ weapon of defence by the Hohas. Henry describes the instrument and the manner of using it. The Dacotas have no tradition of having ever emi- grated, from any other place, to the spot upon which they now reside j they believe that they were created by the Supreme Being on the lands which they at present occupy. Of the origin of white men they have no idea, having never reflected upon the subject ; they have pre- served a faint tradition of their first meeting with a white man, but who this was, and when it took place, they arc unable to tell. They believe that he was a Frenchman, and that he was first discovered by a party SOURCE OF ST. rETERsJ HiVEK. 407 of Mcnde Walikantoan ; as soon as the Dacotas saw him they were much surprised at his dress and complexion ; they took him prisoner, secured him, and brought him to their camp. He had in his hand a gun. By means of signs they asked him the use of that instrument; he pointed out to them that with it he could take away the life of any object he pleased ; they then placed a man before him, challenging him to the proof of what he had advanced ; upon his refusal to do it, they placed a dog before him, which he Immediately shot and killed. Terrified at the report of the gun, they all ran off, con- sidering him as the spirit of the thunder; as he remained there, they returned to him, called him by the name of Thunder, and held him in great awe and veneration. Their first discovery by white men is referred by Char- levoix* to the year 1660, when he states that they were met by two Frenchmen proceeding west from Lake Superior. Father Hennepin's visit to the Falls of St. Anthony did not take place till upwards of twenty years after this. Previous to Charlevoix's writings, the Dacotas had been referred to a Chinese origin. This idea is supported by Carver, but upon such weak analogies of language as must surprise us, when advanced by one who certainly was not destitute of judgment and obser- vation. Pike ascribes to them a Tartarean origin, o i the ground of " the'.r guttural pronunciation, their high cheek bones, their visages and distinct manners, together with their own traditions, supported by the testimony of neighbouring nations." The Dacotas have a very simple system of religion. They believe in the existence of a Supreme Being, and I r ' Wh Ilbl. dc la Nouv. Framr, torn 'i. p. I)S. •J I) I i • 40H KXPtDITIOS TO TUB I N ; • t f : '■ ■n :; t,. of n number of subordinule ones:, whose powers, privi- !cges, and attributes vary much. The Supreme Being is by them called Wahkan Tanka, or Groat Spirit. They worship him^ considering him as the Creator of all things that exist, :uid as the Ruler and Disposer of the Universe ; they hold him to be the source of all good, and the cause of no evil whatever. The next spirit in respect to power, is the Wahkan Shecha, or evil spirit ; his influence is far less extensive than that of the Wahkan Tanka, and it is exclusively exerted in the performance of evil. He is co-eternal with the former, incapable of doing any good, the promoter of all wars, strifes, &c. Although partially under the control of the Groat Spirit, yet it is not in the power of the latter entirely to check him. Their third divinity is the Thunder, for which they have the greatest awe. They fix its resi- dence to the west, and some believe it to dwell upon the summit of the Rocky Mountains. It is almost un- necessary to add, that all thunder storms in that section of the country proceed from the west. To each of these spirits they extend their worship. It has been incorrectly stated of the Dacotas that they do not worship the Supreme Being, thinking it unnecessary to supplicate an all-bountiful power. On the coiitrary, they otter sacrifices to the Great Spirit; in gratitude for favours received. In sacrificing to the evil spirit, their object is to propitiate him, to induce him to avert his anger from them, or to extend to them his support in war. But it is the Thunder which is considered as the main agent in warlike operations, and to it do they chiefly apply for victory. Sacrifices to these throe powers are offered jK'urly in the same manner. They begin by elevating a jii|)o towards the spirit. Ho who gives or ordains the ! .1 SOL'RlK OV JiT. PETKR s UIVHR. 409 ers, pi'ivi- eme Being cat Spirit, eator of all osei- of the )f all good, :t spirit in evil spirit ; le Walikan jrformanco icapable of strife*;;, &c. the Groat entirely to under, for X its resi- II upon the ilmost un- liat section each of has been Jt worship supplicate they otter )r favours r object is nger from r. But it 1 agent in apply for •e offered evating a dains the sacrifice, after having addressed the being to whom it is offered, takesup the calumet, and raises tlicstem upwards towards the sky, if it be intended for the good spirit ; if for the evil deity, he points the stem towards the south ; if for the thundor, the pipe is directed to the west. When it is intended that the object sacrificed shall remain exposed to the atmosphere, it is fastened upon a stake, which h elevated or inclined in like manner. Human sacrifices are not known to have ever been resorted to, except in one instance about forty years ago. The Sioux had destroyed several Chippewa lodges, and taken a few women and children. Wamendetanka's father, who was a partizan warrior, expressed his belief that the sacrifice of a child would ensure him good luck. Ac- cordingly he offered one to the evil spirit to obtain success in war. The child was fixed upon a i)ole, which was inclined towards the south; the death of the victim was procured by tying a rope round its neck. In addition to these three principal deities, theDacotas acknowledge many subordinate ones ; a female spirit, for instance, resides in the sun, a male inhabits the moon ; both these are connected; they are considered as benevolent beings. No particular doctrine prevails as to the nature of the stars. The sacrifices of the Dacotas are accom- panied with prayers, but not with dances. If one of the nation should observe any object elevated by another on a pole, as a sacrifice to a spirit, and he be at that time in ne^d of the same, he will not hesitate to take it, substi- tuting some tobacco or other offering in its place. This is, however, practised only with the offering's to the inferior spirits; for no Dacota would dare to remove that consecrated to the Supreme Being. i 1^ f 410 KXPEDITION TO TUB 11 ■i ill ^ .i r ^ -it The ideas of the Dacotas, respecting a future state, tVitfcv but little from those of other Indians; and tve may receive them with less diffidence* ad they have had but little intercourse with missionaries, whether Catholic or otherwise ; still, in some of their credences, as related to us, it was impossible not to discover a few of the doc- trines of Christianity, which had probably crept in un- noticed by them. The Dacotas admit that there are in man two distinct essences, to Avhich they respectively apply the terms of Wanare* and Wahkan,t which our interpreters translate by soul and spirit. They believe thnt after death the souls go to the Wanare Tebe, or dwelling-placc of the souls : that, in order to reach it, they have to pass over a rock, the edge of which is as sharp as that of a knife ; those who fall off go to the region of tl»e evil spirit, where they arc kept constantly chopping wood, carrying water, &c. being frequently flogged by their relentless master. Those, on tiie contrary, that have passed safe over the rock, have a long journey to travel ; and as they proceed they observe the camping places of the souls th.it have preceded them ; at these spots fires are ready made for llii'ir accommodation ; finally, they reach the habitation of the Wahkan Tanka, or Great Spirit. There they find many viihiges of the dead j they meet with some spirits there, who point out to them the way to the resi- dence of their friends and relations, with whom they are reniuled. Tiicir life is an easy and a blissful one, they Imiit the buffalo, plant corn. Sec. It is believed, that when ehildrcn are on the point of f i ) i .1 1 '1' J ijrt'at liorror ; ihey assert that they have never been guilty of it, but charge their neighbours with the crime. Renville states, as a circumstance for which he is willing to vouch, tliat he was present at the siege of Fort Meigs, in the year 1813. The fort was besieged by general Proctor, at the head of the British army, attended by a corps of about three thousand Indians, consisting of I)a- cotas, Patawalomis, Mianiis, Ottowas, Wolves, Ilurons, Winuebagoes, Shawanese, Sauks, Foxes, Menomonies, &c. They had all shared in the battle exce|)t the Dacotas, who had not yet engaged against the Americans, and who were then on their way to Quebec. While Ren- ville was seated, one afternoon, with Wapashi' and Chetanwakoamane, a deputation came to invite them to meet the other Indians, the object of the meeting not being stated ; the two chiefs complied with the request. Shortly after, Frazier, (an interpreter,) came and in- formed Renville that the Indians were engaged in eating an American, and invited him to walk over to the place. He went thither, and found the human flesh cut up, and ]>urtionedout into dishes, one for each nation of Indiana. In every dish, in addition to the flesh, there was corn. At that moment they called upon the bravest man in each nation, to come and take a portion of the heart and head ; one warrior from each nation was allowed a fragment of this choice morsel. In the group of Indians present, there was a brave Dacota, the nephew of Che- tan wakoamane, known bv the name of the "Grand Clias- sour." They invited him to stej) forward and take his share, and among others a Winnebago addressed him, ;in(l told hitn that they had collected their friends to par- luke of a meal prr|)ared with the flesh of one of that nation that had done them so much injury. Uefore the vOl'Kf 1£ OK ST. PKTKIl S niVI-ll. i\:\ Siou.K warrior had lime to reply, liis undo arose and bade Iiis no|>Iic\v rise and depart thence ; he then ad- dicsscd himself to the Indians: ** My friends," said he, '* u'e came here, not to cat Americans, hut to wagv war aijainst them; that will suffice for us; and could we even do that if left to our own forces? we are poor and desti- tute, while they possess the means of su|)plying them- selves with all Ihat they require; we onj,dit not therefore to do such things." His conu'ade, Wapasha, added, " We thoui;ht that you, who live near to white men, were wiser and more refined than we are who live at a distance; but it must indeed be otherwise if von do such deeds." They then rose and departed. Ilenville is [)osi- tive that he could :.ot have been deceived, for it was the head, heart, both hands and feet of a man that he saw in the dishes ; and he saw some of the warriors partaking of them. The British officers were in their camp, anare and partake of this disgusting re[)a6t. The Dacotas have always spoken of such deeds in terms of the highest reprobation ; and m'c heard of one case only as having happened among them ; it occurred in the year IHI 1 : during a very gem ral famine, three women partook of the flesh of a man who hud previously died of hunger ; but even in this case, where they were urged by a neces- sity which probably no white man could have resisted, their conduct was generally blamed j and two of them having died u short time afterwards, their death was f^upposed to have been brought on by this food. The third still lives; she is regarded with horror by the rest of the nation, who also consider her present state of corpulence as produced by that fatal food; they state it, as their o|)inii)n> that she will die choked with the fat of the man of whom she ate. We have heard some ca^^cs of cannibalism rel.ited of them by their neighbours, but none appeared so well sub- stantiated as to be entitled to belief, especially as the opinion which we have ado])ted is supported by the uniform testimony of all the travellers who have visited them, from Hennejiin to the present day.* • It appears tliat Tommo (the Drirotn wlio <»«i(lo(l IMajor Lonq^'s party from Prairie dii Chicn) told Mr CoIIkium tlmt lio had eati'n of a Chi])p»'Wii, railed HahatoiiR ; lie spoke of it witiiout any repii^TiiiuJce, poiutod to liit; breast, sayii!g that he had found tliat part to he tlu! most di'lituitc Tliis appears to he a solitary instance, and we only mention it heciui: e we wish to avoid the rharf]:e of eoncealinp any fact that may affect onr general posi- tion, that the Dacotas do not imitate their neij^hhnurs in this pratificalion of SOURCE OF ST. rBTBll s niVKH. 4i:i th the fat of The trcatiiycnt of ihoir prisoners, by the Dacotas, IiQS generally been considered as kind ; and wc find that even as far back as the visit of that traveller, they de- served that character. Hennepin, who certainly was much addicted to exaggeration, and who might have been alarmed at innocent gestures, the intention of which he might mistake, has given such an account of the treatment which he received from them, as fully confirms our statement. Their enemies seem to place great confidence in this virtue of theirs, as is manifest from tlic following transaction, which happened about thirty years ago. A battle had been fought on Knife Lake between the Chippewas and Dacotas; two luui- drcd warriors of the latter hali. The Dacotas having agreed to release her, the prisoners were all brought tip; he immediately recognized his daughter, wej)t over her, and embijiced her. lie re- mained two days among tliem, and was much feasted. : Hf HOL'MCR OK ST. PKTKU S RIVKU. 417 the Ducotas expressing the greatest adinirsuioii ot lii* valour. On his (le[)arture, they loaded his canoe with presents, and one liiniih'ed of tlieni accompanied liini, a* B protection, as far as Rum river. Durinif his stay he observed the scalps of his wife, brother, and otiiei relations, and pointed each out. When asked by the warriors why he had not fought with the same desperate courage to resist their attacks, which he had n»anifeste Ilistoriful and Literary Cuininitteo uf the American PhilosophicHi Society- rhiladclphiit, 1819, vol. i. p. 338. SUUHCB OK .ST. l>KiKllb IllVIill. 421^ lie Amviican we deem it unnecessary for us to promise tlicm, by stat- ing that we are not believers in tbem, as Carver appears to have been in the prophecies of liis friend, the chief Priest of the Killistinoes, but tliat we merely recite tliem in order to show how far credulity will extend. About twenty years ago, a large party of Indians, col- lected near Lake Travers, were (jiiite destitute of to- bacco: not knowing how to procure any, they applied to Tatankanaje (Standing Bnilalo), a |)rophet of some dis- tinction, and the uncle of the present chief of the Kahras. This man usually carried about him a little stone idol, carved into a human shape; this he called his little man, and to it he always applied when consulted in the way of his profession. Tatankanajo being reciuested to advise the best means of obtaining tobacco, made an- swer to them, that if they would go to a certain place, which he pointed out to them, they would find his idol» and, by examining it, they would observe in its hand a piece of tobacco. They did as he bade them, and found in the little fellow's hand a piece about four inches long ; this was brought to the camp, and Mas thought to redound much to the credit both of the prophet and the idol; but Tatankanaje then observed, that he would consult the little man, and ascertain where he had foimd the tobacco, and how he came by it. This he did by putting interrogatories to him, to which he pretended that audible answers were returned, though of the many present not one heard them beside himself. The pur- port of these answers, however, as he subsequently in- formed them, was, that at a spot on the St. Peter, near to Redwood river, there was a boat, loadeil with goods ; that her commander, a French trader, having been mur- dered by the Sioux, the crew had been alarmed, and had 2 K 4 I 'li m ■if ^ I 4'2\ KXI'KOITION TO THK It - « i J i "i 1 I J ! I '■ 1 ' 1 i i 1 1 t ^i\\ 1 §1 |i run away, leaving the boat unguarded, together with her cargo, consisthig principally of tobacco; that the little man had seen her, and finding a piece of tobacco on a keg, had brought it up. The prophet having in- vited ihcnj to seek for it, they repaired to the spot, foun KIVKK. 4'2:y the pi'tMlictioii ; not only as to thu general results, but even as tu the circumstances of time, place, number of killed and wounded on both side<>, and amount of prisoners taken from the enemy. Of course, «o valuable a prophet was constantly resorted to for the rccovciy of stolen property, or of goods that were lost — for a know- ledge of the fate of persons that were travelling — for the cure of diseases — and for all such other important points, upon which the credulity both of civilized und savage man induces them to lend a willing ear to the impositions of knaves. Of his talent in recovering pro- perty, wc regret that we can only mention a circum- stance in which the object at stake was very trifling. Some one had ventured to steal away the prophet's bridle ; it was concealed in a lodge that formed one in a cainp of one hundred lodges. The prophet took a mirror in his hand, and walked roimd the village, until^ as he said, he saw the lost bridle reflected in his mir- ror : he entered the adjoining lodge, and recovered his I»roperty. Not only do they prophecy, but they perform tricks of legerdemain, all which they ascribe to the success of their incantations. We are indebted to Mr. Charles Hess, a French trader, with whom Mr. Say had several conferences at Fort St. Anthony, for the account of a trick performed by an Assiniboin. The magician asserted, in Mr. Hess's presence, as well as in that of many Indians, that he couhl cause water to flow into an empty keg, though he might at that time be upon a dry prairie, and at a distance from any spring or stream. Mr. Hess having told him that he did not believe him, but that, if he succeeded, he would give him a keg of whiskey, the Indian offered to repeot, without either rest or food, he at last reached Pembina. On hearing his sad talc, the inha- bitants were so much panic- struck, that none at the ltd from his i:ious puiunt i the utiiiust liile hf wus this excited and, after u alley ulieie ith meeting Illation was IS feathered (i from his idered, and I streaming was lifeless. ', in search of her. At his other e unable to mrsue : he te victims; t>n gave up -d to leave ^ Pembina id particu- zed father swearing s enenjie.s, have sur- ts spent in he at last the inha- iie at the vt)l'H( K OK ^l\ PKIKK ?. UIVKU. V2\) •ettleiMont would venture with him into the prairie l«) inter his friends, and remove liis cart and other pro- perty. Hearing, however, that his surviving daughter was In one of the Vankton villages, he set out with the ilesperate resolution of recovering her, or perish- ing in the attempt. At the termuiation of another arduous journey across the prairie, he reached the cnmp and wus met by many Yanktons, one of whom, a tail athletic man, inquired of him whether he was h friend or foe. " You know me," said Charles Hess, **aH your foe ; you know me by the name of tlie Standing Hull ; you know you have killed one of my daughters, and taken the other prisoner.'" The Indian stepped backwards and pointed his arrow at him ; Mr. Hess levelled his gun at his opponent. The Dacota seeing this, relaxed his bow, and extended his hand to him. The Indians all complimented him upon his valour; they invited him to feast at most of the lodges. He saw his daughter ; she informed him that she had been kindly treated, and that her master was unwilling to part with her. Two horses were offered for her re- lease by some Indians of a neighbouring nation, who were |)assing that way, and who were friendly to Hess; these were refused : four horses were, in like manner, offered and refused. At last her master consented to release her for the following ransom, viz. two fathoms of scarlet cloth, two white blankets, two fathoms of blue strouJwfiTy a chiefs coat, a tin kettle, two guns, one ]>air of fine pistols, a framed looking-glass and a paper one, two knives, six double handfuls of gunpowder, two hundred bullets, and a quantity of blue beads. So high a ransom fell heavy upon this poor man, who had lost his little all at the same time that his daughter * I' _ -JJ^tA A'M) KXPKr)i'i'ioN ro I'll tt ,1 li \ ' 1 n . 1 1 i i .(. ! 1 ! 1 J - 1 i > L was tukei) prisuiiet' : he had tu result to the othei' traders for assistance ; and they bestowed it upon him with that generous sympathy which is more easily found among rude and uncivilized men than among the more refined. They supplied him with goods on a long credit ; witli these he returned to the camp, and ransomed his daughter, who, while he was relating this said talc to us, was sitting by, engaged in decorating a piece of leather with porcupine quills, a work in M'hich the Chip|)ewas excel. A circumstance which, we believe, added to the distress of the parent, was that he found some diHicidty in prevailing upon his daughter to leave theYanktons; she had been so kindly treated that she cared but little about returning to her own father. We have not learned in what light she was considered, whether as a prisoner, or as an adopted daughter. The uniform but laborious life, which these Indians lead, protects them against many of the diseases inci- dent upon civilization, though it at the same time exposes them to some direful complaints, which their total ig- norance of the healing art, and their superstitious con- fidence in their magicians, prevent them from curing. Among the diseases which arc said to be unknown to the Dacotas, may be ranked the following, viz. inter- mittent fevers in the prairies which are distant from the Mississippi, and probably even in those which border upon that river above the Falls of St. Anthony, Plica Polonica, baldness, (?) nymphomania, spina bifida, and St. Vitus's dance, scurvy, coup de soieil, chlorosis, and leucorrheea. Among those which are known, but which are of very rare occurrence, we will mention jaundice, decayed teeth, and tooth-ache ; in dentition c. ildren suffer much ; in such cases the gum is never cut, but S0I;R('U OV ST. PKI'KU S KIVKK. 431 the cliildrcn arc allowed smooth stones uiul other hard substances to rub against their gums. As a palliative for tooth-aehe the root of the Gerardria is not unfre- quently applied. Hydrophobia is prevented by cutting out the wounded [)art. Dysentery is not common ; it is cured by the free use of sassafras. Deafness is rare, and deaf and dumb cases are exceedingly scarce. Their most prevalent disease is hepatitis, which is hereditary and very frccpient. They use for its cure the oil of rattle- snakes and of other serpents, they say with some bene- fit ; but Renville informed us that he had never seen a person affected with it, that was cured. Frozen limbs are common, and are sometimes lost. They have been cured by the use of a plant known by the traders under the name of the Vinaigrier, or Vinegar Plant. The Dacotas resist cold much better than white men. Hy- pochondriasis is very conuuou ; it affects them as it does white men ; tliey attempt no other remedy but songs and dances. A woman, that Avas once affected with it, imagined that nothing would relieve her but cold water ; she jumped into a stream where the water was only two feet deep, and she was drowned. Hernia is known, but not cured. Hysteria is also known. For dropsy they have no remetly. Diseases of the breast are very common, and arc attributed to their con- stant smoking. Rickets occur in children, in which case they receive a great deal of nursing. Syphilis appears to have been communicated to the Dacotas by white men, and through the women who had inter- course with them ; this disease was totally unknown to those residing on the St. Peter, previous to the establish- ment of the garrison at Fort St. Aiiihouy ; and it is generally believed, that the first rase among them was that of Tomnm (our guide), \vho was infected t' h •i:{'i KM'EuniON ro 1111)1 * i >vitli it ut Pruirie dii ChitMi. The sinuU-pox was, ill like manner, originally unknown to tlicm ; but it lius proved very destructive, at different times, since their intercourse with white men ; it exerted its influence very fatally about fifteen years ago ; among the many Instances of its baneful extension, it is related that, at that time, of forty or fifty individuals who resided in Ave lodges, only one survived this plague. The Dacotas a|)pear to entertain no prejudice against the use of the vaccine matter : they have, in many cases, applied it when offered to them ; the absence of the surgeon from his post at St. Anthony, at the time we passed through, prevented our asceitaining the success which he had met with among them ; all the surgeons of our frontier posts ought to he abundantly supplied with the virus, and their stock of it occasionally renewed, until its in- creased consumption by the Indian will enable them to obtain from them fresh virus, as often as they may recpiire it. The Dacotas have no mode of curing the small-pox, and almost every person affected with this disease falls a victim to it. Venesection is resorted to by the Sioux in cases of contusions, head aches, and pains in the breast. To a wooden handle they tix a small blade of flint, which is covered with sinew except at its point ; they apply it to the vein, which is then cut open by a slight filli|) of the finger. They also draw blood by scarifying, and by suction. Poisoned weapons are used by them in their wars : Mr. Cameron, a trader, was poisoned by an Indian, who administered to him some of tiie plant used for that pin* pose. The steam bath is prepared by them as by other In- dian>i ; but is not so usually practised as a remedy ; it being resorted to for the purposeof obtaining good hu'k. SOURCE OF ST. PKTKR 8 RIVKR. 433 und as u religious ceremony, in the manner which Dr. Richurdsion describes as liaving seen practised by a Cree (Killistino), at Carlton-House.* It is, however, some- times used to cure rheumatism, which disease is not a very common one among them. To cure swellings they rub the skin with roots and plants ; and sometimes use aromatic herbs, to impart to their bodies a pleasant odour. When the pain is internal, they very frequently make incisions in the skin and suck up the blood, ac- companying the operation with songs, ft is probable, from the relief which they derive from this operation in certain cases, that they have been led to expect the same abatement to their grief, or disease of the mind, by re- sorting to a similar remedy, and hence the practice of lacerating their arms, thighs, legs, breast, &c. after the death of a friend. They generally, however, accompany this with lamentations, which they consider as affording g:'eat relief. In such cases they also resort to liquor when they can get it, in order to drown all care. Col. Sneiling mentioned to us, that when a Dacota in the vicinity of his garrison loses any of his relations, he generally repairs to him with a note from the Indian agent, desiring that he may receive a bottle of whiskey. When asked by the Colonel what is the use of the liquor on so melancholy an occasion, the Indians uniformly answer, that it is to produce a flow of tears, for indeed, without it, they are unable to cry. Sterility among women is by no means uncommon, neither is it disreputable. It frequently happens that a woman, reputed barren, will bear children if she change her husband. Menstruation commences later among the ■ I • Franklin's Narrative of r. Journey to the Shores of the Polar Sea. Philadelphia, 1H-2J., p. 67. VOL. I. *i K 434 EXPUDiriON TO TIIK Ir I Dacotus timii among the I'otuwatomi?, for with theformei* it seUlum coiiu'h on belore the ago of fifteen or sixteen, while the latter menstruate at fourteen ; tliis (liilerence is easily ■ i ounted for by the njore severe elimate which the Dacotas inhabit, and by their greater exposure to privations of every kind ; they have various emmena- gogues. Women are frequently liable, during preg- nancy, to lethargy and sick Ntomaeh, and we are informed that the Dacota women have their faces covered with spots, in the same nuinner as white women. Being hardened to exercise, they attend to their usual occupations, even in the last stages of gestation. This has frequently been brought up as a proof that the delicacy of white women, in that situation, was rather the result than the cause of the great care which they take of themselves ; but it appears to us very probable that the proportion of accidents which occur to Indian women during the period of pregnancy, is greater than among white women ; and that this would be much diminished if they were permitted to take the same care to avoid the causes of accidents, as is common among civilized tuitions. The process of parturition is generally easy, though in some instances the labour has lasted from two tofuur - association looks up for support, is the thunder, to which fresuciucion of this kind ; some have two or three societies, one of whi(di has ailone the title of the brave ; the others being called the soldiers, the burt'alo, /tc. The object of these appears to be ditferont, as they are not b(junsiv(^ exposure to danger, which characterizes the Naii|)asliene. The Dacotas that reside along the Mississip[>i and St. Peter raise maize in tolerable abundan(*e: thev also cultivate bean^, piim|)kins, and other vegetables ; some of them, such as Wapasha, appear to be aware of the advantages ubicii attend agriculttu'e, but all are not •J K I 440 EXHKDITION TO TIIK n equally so; and the occasiotiul nuppHos of tlicseartlcle* mIiIcIi tlicy receive from the Indian agents and officers of our government, whenever they are in want of food, no douht tend to encourage their lazy habits. Col. Snelling once offered a chief the use of a plougli, and of a person to teach him the manner of working it, in order that his band migiit raise potatoes. The chief made no answer for some time, but continued to smoke his pipe with great deliberation ; when this was exhausted, and he had carefully laid it aside, he rose, advanced towards the colonel, shook his hand, and observed that he tiad taken the offer into consideration, and had concluded that he would be a great fool were he to acce|)t of it, when he recollected that his father always supplied him with provisions, as often as he was in need of them. The Dacotas do not profess, as the Potawatomis do, to have been acquainted with the preparation of sugar from the sap of the maple tree, previous to their intercourse with white traders. Their food is usually prepared l)y boiling it in iron pots, which they procure from the traders, and, as far as wc have observed, they a|)pcar to prefer their meat well done. In their degree of cleanliness they vary much, some being far more particular than others. The Dacotas may upon the whole be considered as not very uncleanly ; and as far as relate;* lO their per- sons, they attend much to this particular. They had no substitute for ardent spirits, and were completely un- acquainted with intoxication previous to their intercourse with Europeans. Of their divisions of time it is difficult to obtain cor- rect information. The interpreters, even the most intelligent, arc so prone to connect their own oi)inions with those of the Indians, that they can scarcely be SOUnCK Ol' Kr. I'KTKH H RIVKH. 141 trusted in this particular. We have not been able, how- over, to trace among them any idea of the lost moon, ascribed to them by Carver. The following division of the year was furnished by Renville, and is added, though we |)lace but little confidence in its accuracy, at least as having been in use among the Indians previous to their intercourse with white men. They arc said to divide the year into twelve moons, commencing with the September one, and distinguishing them as follows : — September, Wajopi we,* Commcucfnicnt of wild rirc. October, Siushtaupi we, End of wild rive. November, Takehuhu we, lluttinf^ dtrr. December, Tahechapshon we. Deer shcddiiiij its horn. January, We tarhe, Hard moon. February, Wcchata we, Itavroon. March, Wishta wasa we. Sore-eye. A|)ril, Mahalmhandi we, Iluutini:;. May, Mahahakanda we. Oviparous ^^amc. June, Wajustechasha we. Strawberries. July, Tsclianpa«ha we. Cherries. August, Tatanka kehowa we, Uitttini:; buffalo. Among the Indians whom we saw at Fort St. Anthony, there was one who was called the fool. His countenunre had a great appearance of simplicity, being totally devoid of expression ; his face was long, his eyes downcast and vacant ; his person was much ornamente y. 442 BXPJIDITION TO TUB II i .1 ■ which the Indians usually wear. Tliis man was formerly gifted with a common share of intellect : but he has, through the wantonness of some Indians, been reduced to his present state of idiocy. He was a long time since taken prisoner by his enem'es, who, with a view to amuse themselves with his fears, tied him to a stake, and threatened to burn him alive ; a little fire was kindled, so as merely to scorch him ; but when he was loosened, his intellect was disordered, and has continued so ever since. In some instances, however, he still displays his natural sagacity. He is a good hunter ; being at one time very poor, he made a sort of pike, with which he went out to hunt, and was very successful, particularly in killing raccoons ; the skins which he sold on his return enabled him to purchase a gun, blanket, &c. He is much trusted by the officers of the garrison, and had just returned from Prairie du Chien with despatches, having travelled the distance on foot in four days. Like all the Indian nations with whom the white man has come into contact, the Dacota presents to us at this day but a noble ruin. No longer united for purposes of common defence, they have long since ceased to meet at the same council fire ; their alliances with other nations are now mere mockeries ; their wars have dwindled into petty conflicts. Instead of marching, as they formerly did, by hundreds, they now issue forth in small detach- ments, presenting rather the character of a band of marauders than of an expedition of warriors. When they lighted the common calumet at the General Council Fire, it was always among the Mende Wahkantoan, who then resided near Spirit Lake, and who were considered as the oldest band of the nation, their chiefs being of longer standing than those of the other tribes ; among them- n : SOURCE OF ST. P£T£R S RIVER. 443 selves they use the appellation of brothers. 'J'liey are related with the Shiennes, and with the Arrlcaras, and by marriages they are connected with the Pawnees, Osages, &c. ; but to these nations they only apply the term of friend. With the Omawhaws they wage a deadly warfare. We were told that the lawas were formerly a band of the Dacotas, and that they were distinguished by the term of the Titatons, but that they separated long since, and that their language had been so much altered as to be unintelligible to the Dacotas. But this information is probably incorrect, for Governor Clai'ke, during his late visit to the seat of government, with a deputation of Indians from many nations, informed Mr. Colhoun, that the lawas, Winnebagoes, and Otoes appeared to him to be of common descent, and to speak dialects of the same language ; and he expressed his opinion, that an inquiry into the matter would result in determining them to be of that nation, which, as we learn from Mr. Jefferson's ''Notes," emigrated from Ocoquan. Mr. Joseph Snelling, who accompanied that deputation, likewise informed Mr. Colhoun, that in a speech made by the lawa chief while in the city of Washington, the former union of the Winnebagoes and Otoes with his nation, was distinctly asserted. This confirms the information obtained by Mr. Say, on the former expedition, (Vide Account of an Expedition to the Rocky Mountains, vol. i. p. 338, 339, and 342,) and disproves the assertion that the lawas were ever cpn- nected with the Dacotas. It may likewise be questioned, whether the Omawhaws, whom Carver connects, as well as the Shiennes and Arricaras, with the Naudowessies of the plains, were not descended from a different stock. Of the history of the Dacotas very little is known ; n I' 444 EXPEDITION TO THE ■\l \U mi 1 <; 1 , 11 they have been engaged from thne immemorial in a destructive war against the Chippewas. All the efforts of our government have tended to produce but tempo- rary suspensions of arms, which have been in all cases violated within a short time after they had been made. Lahontan informs us that they defeated a party of Iroquois, on an island of the Mississippi, prior to the year 1688. In 1697) "^ they destroyed a party of Miamis, on the southern coast of Lake Michigan, between St. Joseph and Kikalemazo rivers ; and Charlevoix states that iu 1701,t the Sauks, Winnebagoes, Menomonies, Foxes, Potawatomis, and Kickapoos, assembled at Green Bay to go to war with them, but that they were dissuaded from it by a French emissary. The Chippewas informed Carver, in 1767; that a war had continued without any interruption between them and the Dacotas for upwards of forty winters. They appear to have no tradition or knowledge of the Lenni-Lenape, Aligawi, or other nations that were found east of the Allegliany Mountains* In speaking of the early impression made by the Dacotas on Europeans, Charlevoix observed, that they were considered to have a better conception than any other Indians of the attributes of the Supreme Being. Our visit to Lake Travers having been announced to the gentlemen of the Columbia Fur Company, by a messenger sent to them from Big Stone Lake, the party were received on their arrival with a national salute ; and other demonstrations of friendly hospitality were manifested, not only at that time, but also during the few days which they spent there. * Cliarlevoix's Hist, de la Nouv< France, torn. iii. p. 310. t Ibid. p. 405. . . - : Ih SOURCE OF ST. FSTER S RIVRR* 445 The Columbia Fur Company was created in 1822 ; it consists of but few individuals, who being all practically acquainted with the Indian trade, in which they had pre- viously been engaged in the service of the Hudson's Bay or North- West Company, resolved, after the consolida- tion of these two companies into one, to establish them- selves on the United States' territory, and to trade with the Indians south of the boundary line, under licenses granted by the Indian agent at the mouth of the St. Peter. Their capital is not very large, but being all active, intelligent, and experienced, they will, we doubt not, succeed. Their principal establishment is at Lake Travers; its situation is judiciously selected, as it is at the head of the navigation of the St. Peter and Red Rivers, in the midst of a country which abounds in buffalo, so that they can lay in ample stores of provisions for their wintering parties. By extending their excur- sions to the head waters of the Mississippi, and as far on the Missouri as the Indians will permit, they will be able to obtain large supplies of beaver and other valuable skins, and as their object appears to be merely to trade with the Indians, and not to hunt upon their lands, they will, it is to be hoped, continue on amicable terms with them. The following statement of the amount of flirs for- merly packed up by the British companies, and pro- duced altogether by the trade on Red River and its tri- butaries, has been communicated to us by the gentle- men of the Columbia Fur Company. As this statement is restricted to the value of the fur trade on the South side of the boundary line, we think there can be no im- propriety in publishing it. All that relates to the British territories, and that we have been able to collect from I't 446 KXPKDITION TO THE our own observations^ or which has been kindly comniu- nicirted to us in the course of conversations with the of- ficers of the Hudson's Bay Company, we have no wish to publish, and we should consider it highly censurable so to do ; but as this relates to a trade in which they can have no further interest, no objection can, we trust, be taken to it. Names. No. of packs. No. of skins, or V alue of pack :. Total. Beaver - - 10 wt. of each pack. - 100 lbs. wt. - Sp. dol. 400 Sp. dol. 4,000 Bear - - - 20 12 skins 75* 1,500 Buffalo - - 400 10 skins 40 16,000 Martin - - 10 - 100 lbs. 300 3,000 Otter - - 10 - 100 lbs. 600 6,000 Fisher - - 25 450 11,250 Elk - - - 40 16 skins - - 80 3,200 Mynx - - 10 200 2,000 Muskrat - 40 - 5(K) skins 200 8,000 Lynx - 20 280 5,600 Swan - 2 - 60 skins 60 120 Rabbit - - 4 - 400 skins - - - 8 32 Wolverine - 1 - 400 skins - - - 76 Cowskins) (dressed) ) 20 - 16 skins - - 80 1,600 Wolves 10 - 40 400 Moose 10 - 80 800 Fox - 5 - 260 1,300 637 Sp. dol. 64,877 * This item we find stated in our notes at Spa. dol. 450 per pack, but we apprehend that the statement is very much overrated, although it is said to refer to the finest quality. Six dollars per skin is probably a fair prire. SOURCE OF ST. PETKR S KIVER. 447 J commu- th the of- i no wish eusurable lich they we trust, ick. Total. Sp. dol. 4,000 1,500 16,000 3,000 6,000 11,250 3,200 2,000 8,000 5,600 120 32 75 1,600 400 800 1,300 6W7 ck, but we is said to r price. The above prices are, we believe, those of the Mon- treal market. This statement establishes the average vahie of the packs at about one hundred dollars ; and if we exclude the buffalo robes, which are sold at forty dollars a pack, the other furs will average upwards of two hundred dollars. The amount of the less valuable furs, such as those of wolves, wolverines, rabbits, &c. might be increased, if there were a market for them. In addition to these, the country supplies annually one thousand bags of pounded buffalo meat (Pemmi- can),* valued at four thousand dollars. The Columbia Fur Company can, if it be active, share this trade with the American Fur Company ; these are the only associa- tions that trade at present with the Indians in that part of the United States. Independent of this the trade of the Missouri and its tributaries may probably prove very valuable. It will be the interest of both the companies to keep on amicable terms. The prac- tice which has too often prevailed among Indian traders, to endeavour to increase their business by • Femmican is the meat of the buffalo, prepared for preservation in the following manner : the flesh is cut into thin slices, which are jerked in the sun or smoke, the latter being preferable ; it is then dried before the fire un- til it becomes crisp, after which it is laid upon one stone, and pounded with another fixed into a wooden handle ; after it has been reduced into as fine a powder as possible, which is, however, far firom being very minute, it is mixed up with an equal weight of buffalo grease, or marrow fat poured on when hot and liquid. Before the mixture cools, it is introduced into skin bags, and well shaken, so that it may settle into a compact mass. Some- times, in order to give it a pleasant taste, it is mixed with a sort of wild cherry,which is pounded and introduced, stone and all. The Femmican forms a wholesome and strong food, which, when prepared with care, and from good materials, is very palatable. It has the advantage that it may be eaten without any preparatory cooking. Sometimes it is heated in a pan, and is equal to the best hashed meat. ^! i 1 ■t I'i 448 KXPKDITION TO THK injuring the interests or the reputation of their com- petitors, is as injudicious as the means which they adopt- ed were frequently criminal; they lo "ir the character of the white man in the opinion of the Indians, and excite them to deeds at which they would otherwise revolt. The principal interest which we experienced in the neighbourhood of Lake Travers, was from an acquaint- ance with Wanotan* (the Charger), the most distin- guished chief of the Yanktoanau tribe, which, as we were informed, is subdivided into six bands. He is one of the greatest men of the Dacota nation, and although but twenty-eight ycaru of age, he has already acquired great renown as a warrior. At the early age of eigh- teen he exhibited much valour, in the war against the Americans, and was wounded several times. He was then inexperienced, and served under his father, who was the chief of his tribe, and who bore a mortal enmity to the Americans. Wanotan has since learned to form a better estimate of our nation. He is aware that it is the interest of his people to remain at peace with us, and would probably, in case of another war between the United States and England, take part with the former. Those who know him well, commend his sagacity and judgment, as well as his valour. He is a tall man, being upwards of six feet high ; his countenance would be esteemed handsome in any country, his features being regular and well-shaped. There is an intelligence that beams through his eye, which is not the usual concomi- tant of Indian features. His manners are dignified and reserved ; his attitudes are graceful and easy, though * Wlinitin. eir com- ey adopt- L^haracter ians, and otherwise id in the acquaint- ist distin- :h, as we He is one although acquired of eigh- i^ainst the He was •, who was enmity to :o form a it it is the |i us, and ween the former, acity and |an, being ould be |res being nee that ;oncomi- ified and though SOURCK Ol.' ST. PKTBR S RIVER. 441) they appear to be somewhat studied. When speaking of the Dacotas, we purposely postponed mentioning the frequent vows which they make, and their strict adhe- rence to them, because one of the best evidences which we have collected on this point connects itself with the character of Wanotan, and may give a favourable idea of his extreme fortitude in enduring pain. In the sum- mer of 1822 he imdertook a journey, from which, appre- hending much danger on the part of the Chippewas, he made a vow to the Sun, that, if he returned safe, he would abstain from all food or drink for the space of four successive days and nights, and that he would dis- tribute among his people all the property which he pos- sessed; including all his lodges, horses, dogs, &c. On his return, which happened without accident, he cele- brated the dance of the sun ; this consisted in making three cuts through his skin, one on his breast, and one on each of his arms. The skin was cut in the manner of a loop, so as to permit a rope to pass between the flesh and the strip of skin which was thus divided from the body. The ropes being passed through, their ends were secured to a tall vertical pole, planted at about forty yards from his lodge. He then began to dance round this pole, at the commencement of this fast, frequently swinging himself in the air, so as to be supported merely by the cords which were secured to the strips of skin separated from his arms and breast. He continued this exercise with few intermissions during the whole of his fast, until the fourth day about ten o'clock, a.m., when the strip of skin from his breast gave way ; notwith- standing which he interrupted not the dance, although supported merely by his arms. At noon the strip from his left arm snapped off: his uncle tlien thought that i VOL. I. 2 G \: Mi^l ) « ii: 450 KXPBUITION lO TIIK I.e had ^iiiflfered enough ; he drew liis knife and cut uft' the skhi from the right arm, upon which Wanotan fell to the ground and swooned. • The heat at the time was extreme. He was left exposed in that state to the sun until night, when his friends brought him some provi- sions. After the ceremony was over, he distributed to them the whole of his property, among which were five fine horses, and he and his two squaws left his lodge, abandoning every article of their furniture. As we appeared upon the brow of the hill which com- mands the company's fort, a salute was fired from a number of Indian tents which were pitched in the vici- nity, from the largest of which the American colours were flying ; and as soon as we had dismounted fi'om our horses, we received an invitation to a feast which Wanotan had prepared for us. The gentlemen of the company informed us, that as soon as the Indians had heard of our . contemplated visit, they had commenced their preparations for a festival, and that they had killed three of their dogs. We repaired to a sort of pavilion which they had erected by the union of several large skin-lodges. Fine buffalo-robes were spread all around, and the air \vas perfumed by the odour of sweet scenting grass which had been burned in it. On entering the lodge we saw the chief seated near the further end of it, and one of his principal men pointed out to us the place which was destined for our accommodation ; it was at the upper end of the lodge, the Indians who were in it taking no further notice of us. These con- sisted of the chief, his son, a lad about eight years old, and eight or ten of the principal warriors. The chief's dress presented a mixture of the European and abori- ginal costume; he wore moccassins and leggings of n SUURCK OF ST. PKTRIl S IllVKK. 151 I cut off otati fell time was the sun le pi'ovi- ibuted to were five lis lodge, licb com- (1 from a the vici- II colours ited fiom ist which len of the dians had »mmenccd had killed f pavilion sral large ill around, t scenting tering the her end of to us the tdation ; it dians who 'hese con- years old, he chief's and abori- eggings of splendid scarlet cloth, a blue breecli-cloth, a fine shirt of printed muslin, over this a frock coat of fine blue cloth with scarlet facings, somewhat similar to the un- dress uniform coat of a Prussian officer; this was buttoned and secured round his waist by a belt. Upon his head he wore a blue cloth cap, made like a German fatigue cap. A very handsome Mackinaw blanket, slightly or- namented with paint, was thrown over his person. His son, whose features strongly favoured those of his father, wore a dress somewhat similar, except that his coat was party-coloured, one half being made of blue, and the other half of scarlet cloth. He wore a round hat with a plated silver band and a large cockade. From his neck were suspended several silver medals, doubtless pre- sents to his father. This lad appeared to be a great fa- vourite of Wanotan*s, >vho seems to indulge him more than is customary with Indians to do. As soon as we had taken our seats, the chief passed his pipe round, and while we were engaged in smoking, two of the Indians arose and uncovered the large kettles which were stand- ing over the fire : they emptied their contents into a dozen of wooden dishes which were placed all round the lodge ; these consisted of buffalo meat boiled with tep- sin, also the same vegetable boiled without the meat, in buffalo grease, and finally, the much esteemed dog meat, all which were dressed without salt. In compliance with the established usage of travellers to taste of every thing, we all partook of the latter with a mixed feeling of curiosity and reluctance. Could we have, divested, ourselves entirely of the prejudices of education, we should doubtless have unhesitatingly acknowledged tliis to be one of the best dishes that we had ever tasted s it was remarkably fat, w^is sweet and palatable : it had 2g2 1 1 '4 w m Mj, 152 KXPKDITION TO THK M f nh 11 1 I .'/■SMI I none of that dry stringy character which wc had ex- pected to find in it, and it was entirely destitute of the strong taste which we had apprehended that it possessed. It was not an unusual appetite, or the want of good meat to compare with it, which led us to form this fa- vourable opinion of the dog, for wc had, on the same dish, the best meat which our prairies afford ; but so strongly rooted are the prejudices of education, that, though we all unaffectedly admitted the excellence of this food, yet few of us could be induced to eat much of it. We were warned by our trading friends that the bones of this animal are treated with great respect by the Dacotas ; we, therefore^ took great care to replace them in the dishes j and we are informed, that after such a feast is concluded, the bones are carefully collected, the flesh scraped off from them, and that after being washed, they are buried in the ground, partly, as it is said, to tes- tify to the dog-species, that in feasting upon one of their number no disrepect was meant to the species itself, and partly also from a belief, that the bones of the animal will rise and reproduce another. The meat of this ani- malj as we saw it, was thought to resemble that of the finest Welch mutton, except that it was of a much darker colour. Having so far overcome our repugnance as to taste it, we no longer wonder that the dog should be considered a dainty dish by those in whom education has not created a prejudice against this flesh. In China it is said, that fattened pups are frequently sold in the market- place ; and it appears that the invitation to a feast of dog meat is the greatest distinction that can be offered to a stranger by any of the Indian nations east of the Rocky Mountains. That this is not the case among some of the nations west of those mountains, appears ^i SdUFJCJi t»K »r. I'KTKU s KIVUH. ^153 from the fact that Luwis uud Chirke were called, iii derision, by the Indians of the Columbia, Dog Eaters. In the Dacota's treatment of his dogs, during life and after death, we observe one of those strange inconsist- encies which so frequently prevail in the character of man, whether civilized or savage. While living, the dog is a beast of burden, and ns such exposed to undergo much fatigue and ill-treatment ; it is at the same time a most valuable animal. The traders, who have imitated the Indians in their use of the dog, speak of it as almost indispensable to them. Mr. JeftVies, one of t!ie partners of the Columbia Fur Company, informed us, that he had the preceding winter transported in a log-cart one thousand pounds weight of goods, with the assistance of six and rarely eight dogs ; and that he travelled from Lake Travers to the Mandan villages in eleven days. On a long journey, the allowance of load is one hundred pounds per dog. For winter travelling, in a country so frequently covered with snow, the dog is the most con- venient beast of burden, as it may be fed either on dried meat, or on the fresh meat which is occasionally pro- cured. In travelling on the snow with dog trains, it is usual for a man to walk a-head of the dogs, with snow- shoes, in order to trample down the snow, in which otherwise they would sink. We learn from Mr. Back's notes,* that the feet of the dogs are sometimes very much injured, and that in one instance, where they were per- fectly raw, he attempted to tie shoes on them, which did not succeed. Whether it be usual for the Dacotas to do so, we very much question; though it would appear from Purchas' Pilgrim, that these have been used by * Fraiiklin'ii Journey to the Shores of the Polar Sea, lit sup. p. 251. 2 (. 3 \ \ .MZlJi ^\ 454 EXPEDITION TO THE I \> 'jt^2 it ' M; ; I some iiatiofis ; and we arc told by Olaus Magnu?^ that in the north of Europe, a somewhat similar practice existed as regards horses* feet,^ and probably at the time that he visited the country, which was in 1518. The dogs are a great assistance to the squaws, who would other- wise be compelled to carry all their baggage and provi- sions themselves, but who frequently beat and abuse them. After death, the dog forms one of the best articles of food for the Indian, and is reserved for great occa- sions, as it is, in their opinion, invested with a sacred cha- racter, which makes it a fit offering in sncrilices and in feasts to strangers. The respect paid to the bones of the dog contrasts strongly with the ill usage which the animal meets with during life. The feast which Wanotan had prepared seemed to be destined rather for one hundred than for ten persons ; as soon as we had finished eating, the Indians requested that our soldiers might be allowed to come and partake of it, a request which was of course granted. When the soldiers a[)peared, the dishes were placed before them^ and the Indians, who had probably been fasting all day, made a violent inroad upon the meal, evidently prefer- ring the dog to the buffalo meat. According to the In- dian usage, it would have been proper for us to have waited until they had finished their repast, when pro- bably some speeches would have been made ; but the feast appeared likely to be prolonged to a late hour, and the heat was so oppressive in the lodge, owing to the season, and to the number collected therein, as also * " Transeunt homines et equi quasi super clypeos militares. ♦ • • Crates sen arciis Icvi ac lato subere, seu cortice tiliano eontextos, pcdibus propriis ac equcrum alligant." — Olai Magni Gentium Septcntrionalium HistoriiB Breviarium. Am»teIodami, 1669, L. iv. c 13. SOUIiCK OF ST. rKTEU S KIVKK. 455 liiiduiibtedly to the immense quantities of hot meat ex- posed in the dishes, that we were compelled to apologize to Wanotan for our sudden departure. Upon the whole, we were much gratified by this feast; it war worthy of the powerful chief who gave it ; it was offered with an o])en hand and a free heart; it was served up with the usual ceremonies, and it included ulundance of their best and most highly prized food. The next day Wanotan came to pay us a formal visit ; he was dressed in the full habit of an Indian chief; we have never seen a more dignified looking person, or a more becoming dress. The most prominent part of his apparel was a splendid cloak or mantle of buffalo skins, dressed so as to be of a fine white colour ; it was deco- rated with small tufts of owls' feathers, and others of various hues, and is probably a remnant of a dress once in general use among the aborigines of oui' territory, and still worn in the noith-east and north-west parts of this continent, as well as in the South Sea Islands ; it is what was called by the first European visitors of North America, the feather- mantle and feather-blanket, which was by them much admired. A splendid necklace, formed of about sixty claws of the grizzly bear, imparted a manly character to his whole appearance. His leg- gings, jacket, and moccassins, were in the real Dacota fashion, being made of white skins, profusely decorated with human hair ; his moccassins were variegated with the plumage of several birds. In his hair he wore nine sticks neatly cut and smoothed, and painted with ver- milion ; these designated the number of gunshot wounds which he had received ; they were secured by a strip of red cloth ; two plaited tresses of his hair were allowed to hang forward : hits face was tastefully painted ) I :! ill i-i ri ' 456 EXPEDITION TO THK i il {■} i l^l m ' I 1 %vith vermilion : in his hand he wore a large fan ot feathers of the turkey, which he frequently used. We have never seen a nobler face, or a more impres- sive character, than that of the Dacota chief, as he stood that afternoon, in this manly and characteristic dres!«, contemplating a dance performed by the men of his own nation. It was a study worthy of the pencil of Vandyke, and of the graver of Berwick. It would require the itmost talent of the artist to convey a fair idea of this chief, to display Iris manly and regular features, strongly stamped, it is true, with the Indian character, but admi- rably blended with an ex])ression of mildness and modesty ; and it would require no less talent to represent the graceful and unstudied folds of his mantle. How- ever difficult the task of executing such a portrait, Mr. Seymour undertook it; and a plate engraved from his design, has been introduced as a frontispiece to this volume : it will impart, however, but a faint idea of the features and dress of this distinguished chief. Having requested that the warriors should favour us with a dance, Wanotan had one performed for us in the afternoon ; he apologized for the imperfection of the dancers, the best being then absent from the place. The dresses which they wore were more carefully arranged than usual, and indicated that some pains had been taken for the occasion. Among the fantastic ornaments which they had assumed, a paper of pins opened and hanging from the head-dress of one of the warriors was con- spicuous. In his hand he held a wand about ten feet long, to which was attached a piece of red cloth of the same length, and about six inches wide ; one of the edges of this band was fastened to the staff, the other was furnished with black and white feathers, closely secured ^' ^ m h rge fan of setl. .^ , re inipres- is he stood Stic dress, >f his own 'Vandyke, ?quire the ea of this s, strongly but admi- Iness and represent e. How- trait, Mr. i from his e to this lea of the ^ k .> i^:'. "#- ifci \ 1 favour us us in the an of tlie ice. The arranged een taken Its which I hanging was con- feet long, the same edges of ther was ^ secured f 1. », .^#-. tf ■■^:*^ , 1 ■ a ,«'iSliiK-.<^..wi. ^'j i li i l' j \i: li ' ,1 !)'! 'i- fi! S|' H SOURCE OF ST. PETKR S RIVER. 457 b X iC X •V e s o c 3 o •a V a. ai OH 3 1 M 41 M to it by their quills, and forming a sort of fringe. This was one of tlie two insignia or wands of the Association of the Nanpashene : but the most singidar dress was that of Wanotan's son, who, for the first time in his life, wore the distinguished national garb in which he is represented in the frontispiece plate to this volume. The dresses were evidently made for his father, and too large for him, so that they gave to his figure a stiff and clumsy appearance, which strongly reminded us of the awkward gait of those children who, among civilized nations, are allowed at too early an age to assume the dress of riper years, by which they lose their infantine grace and ease. This is one of the many features in which we delight in tracing an analogy between the propensities of man in his natural state, and in his more refined condition. This lad wore a very large head-dress, consisting of feathers made of the war-eagle, and which in form was precisely similar to that of the King of the Friendly Islands, as represented in Cook's Voyages. His dress was made of many ermine-skins, variously disposed upon a white leather cloak. The performers stood in a ring, each with the wing of a bird in his hand, with which he beat time on his gun, arrow, or something that would emit a sound. They commenced their singing in a low tone, gradually raising it for a few minutes, then closing it suddenly with a shrill yell ; after a slight interruption, they recommenced the same air, which they sang with- out any variation for near three-quarters of an hour. Major Long reduced it to notes, and an idea of this low and melancholy, but not unpleasant air, may be formed from the first tune in the |)latc. This was accompanied by a few unmeaning words. Occasionally one of the perforniers would advance into the centre of the ring. 458 EXPEDITION, KTC. If -s il! ji • m ml i' and relate his warlike adventures. Among those who did this was a slender and active warrior, not tall, but distinguished by his very thin lips and nose ; he was pointed out to us as the man who had assaulted Mr. Hess's party in the manner which we have already related. Among the many feats which this warrior enumerated lie took care to omit his murders of white men. The dance which had accompanied this had nothing particular ; they frequently laughed aloud, and appeared to go through the exercise with much spirit. After the dance had continued some time, a few presents were divided among them : upon receiving them they hastily ran away, apparently as much satisfied as we were. ii.iT a. -!Mi^"^ ;'.:,;i:vi T. .i;! ' .' Ji l' ]■: . i^->^ li;:;' : ^iif H ■ ->id .: il i-' ,■ '. ', :. J , ■;■■-;; 'i! ••',■!;.: vniv j; '/so ;/ Ix.l '•(.-. 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S ^ ^ II lose who tail, but he was Ited Mr. already warrior of white this had oud, and h spirit. presents em they [1 as we C I . .,,/ i>t.i t x.hnr '.1.