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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mAthode. errata J to B pelure, on d 32X 1 2 — 1 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 I T H E N E W UNIVERSAL TRAVELLER. CONTAINING I A FULL and DISTINCT ACCOUNT OF ALL TH< EMPIRES, KINGDOMS, and STATES, IN THE KNOWN WORLD. DELINEATtN(^t Not only their SITUATION, CLIMATE, SOIL» and PRODUCE, whether ANIMAL, VEGETABLE, or MINEIjLAL, jliit comprifing ilfo an intereftiDg Detail of tke MANNERS, CUSTOMS, CONSTITUTIONS, RELIGIONS, LEARNING, ARTS, MANUFACTURE Si COMMERCE, AND MILITARY FORCE, C * A t t The COUNTRIES that tave been vifitcd by TRAVELLERS br NAVIGATORS, From the Beginning of the World to the Prefcnt Timc« ACCOM t>AHIfe D -WIT^ v A Description of all the celebrated ANTIQUITIES, and ab acctiratfc HISTORY of Every Nation, from the Earlieft Periods. The VThole being intended to convey a clear Idea of the Frefent State of £i;rope, AsIa, Africa, and Ambric a, in every Particular that can either add to ufeful Knowledge^ or prove interefting to Curiofity. . By J. C A R V E R, Esq. Author of Travels through the Interior Parts of North America. LONDON, Printed for G. ROBINSON, in Pateriiofter-Row. MDCCLXXIX. R E E. ^L TOtwithftanding the various and cxtenfive Information relative to •*- ^ Foreign Countries, communicated by different Authors, no work has hitherto been publifhed, that comprifes an Account of the Univerfe upon fuch a Plan as is calculated to convey an adequate Idea of the Subjetft. Books of Travels and Voyages, though the great Repofitories of ufeful Obfervation, generally abound with tedious and uninterefting Details, which, at the fame time that they preclude the Entertainment of the Reader in one of the moft delightful Provinces of human En- quiry, never fail to excite fuch a Diiguft, as, if it does not extinguifh the Ardour of Refearch, at lead relaxes the EiForts in purfuit of Im- provement. While the Narratives of Travellers and Voyagers confift of* a Profu- ilon of Materials injudicioufly colIeAed, thofe Writers who have abridg- ed their Works, have not proved more happy in their Compilations. Averfe, for the moft Part, to the Duty of examining Fafts, and of col- lating the Recitals of different Travellers with each other, they often fa- crifice Truth indifcriminately to the lUufion of plaufible Error ; and if they fometimes venture to rcjeft the Marvellous, they frequently exclude effential Objedls of Attention, by contenting themfelves with the Infor- mation of a fingle authority, and even that, perhaps, not the moft re- fpeftable. ^ But neither Redundance nor DefeA, neither Prejudice nor Inaccuracy, are the only Faults confpicuous in Works of this Kind. The Arrange- ment is no lefs confufcd and dcfultory than the Materials are frivolous, if ^'0'5S' « not a E E. ^^\ : not liable to Refutation : the mod unimportant CircumAances frequently forming the principal SubjeA of the Narrative, while the Government of the various Nations, their Polity and commercial Interefts, as not being fo obvious to Enquiry, are pafled over with very little Notice, or are at leaft fo imperfcdly treated, as to afford only faint and unfatisfaiSlory Infor- mation. By thofe Circumftances, the great End of Obfervation is almoft entirely fruflrated ; and the Recitals of Travellers and Voyagersj from being rendered a valuable Mifcellany of Infirudion and Entertainment, are degraded to Vehicles of inaccurate Defcription, unauthentic Intelli- gence, and ufelefs and impertinent Detail. To correft thofe Errors, and ftipply thofc DefeAs, was the Objedb of The General Modern Traveller, of which had the Poblication be- gun as foon as the greater Part was ready for the Preis, it would have an- ticipated firveral Prodnftions of a fimilar Nature, that have appeared within thefe few Years. But Accuracy of Information being the Editor's- principal Aim, and that on whiph he chiefly depended for the Succefs of his Undertaking, he was lefs felicitous either to ; .'ecede or accompany ths other Candidates for public Favour, than to afford fuch a con>plete geo- graphical Sydem as was calculated to obtain, not a cafual and temporary, but, he hoped, a well-founded, and, therefore, more permanent Repu- tatbn. That uncommon Pains and Attention have beco beflowed on colledling Information for this Work, the Editor can afiirm with Truth. Not only the Writings of the mofl approved Travellers and Voyagers have been fearched with great Care, but oral Authorities, of unqueftionable Credit, been confulted. By the Delay of Publication, the Editor has been en- abled to give a fuller Account of the Northern Countries in particular than any preceding Writer, in this Species of Compoiition, could obtain; while, by the fame Means, he has greatly enlarged his Fund of Obferra- tions, refpedting the other Parts of the World. \ The B E. m The fame Accuracy which has been obferved in defcribing the prefent State of every Country, has alfo been extended to a hiftorical Abftrad of each. It was, however, thought proper not give any Place to the Hiftory of the Romans, Or tti that of Briflain, as a ufeful Dcuil of thofe Subjeds could not be coroprifed within the Limits which feemed neceflary to this Work»- Upon the whole^ if the moft extenflve, the moft curious, and the mod interefting information^ rcktxve either to foreign Countries^ or the Dominions of Great Britain^ in the various Departments of ele^uat and ornamental, or of fblid aiid ufcfut Knowledge; if the utmoft Care to procure-authentic lotelligence, and the moft fcrupulous Fidelity in re- lating ity with the Editor's own Obfervations, can recommend any Work to the Attention o£ the Public^ Thb General Moobrn TRAV&tLBE, it u. hoped, will not be difappoioCed of it& Objed. 1 li^ DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDEB. ITj^RONTISPlECE, Mjp of the World, 1 Map of Ada, i A Chinefi Manduin, i A Cbtncfe Lady, ■tA Tartarian Woman, ^A WMian of Woliac, { Anoih r Wofiac Woman, \ A KMntchada], *-• / Mar of the Eaft Indiei, I A Lady of Indoftm, HView of Surat, — ^Thff Great Mojul, I A Pcrfian Lady, « \ A Lady of Syrif, \ View of Bklbec, ^View of Jerufalcm, — ' Great Temple in Palmyra, I Map of Africt, — i \ A Balhaw in Egypt, ^ A Lady of Batbwy, - V, Map of Europe, t^^ A Grecian Lady, ^ The Grand Seignior, ^ A Soltanefi Qjieen^ m \ Map of Germany, I Map ot Pdiwi, v ECE.-J t^orld, i — Map of Mofcovy, i^ facing the Title A Finland Girl, — A Gentlewoman in Mofcow, ■ la A Rufflan Lady, — »1 A Rufltn Woman, with ku Cloak n^ a8 A Ditto, with her Cloak off. «3 A kuffian Boor, — . 2) Map of Sweden, — • mm 24 A Woman of Fricxiaad, « 56 A Counteft of Holland, -» 56 A Dutch Skipper, .— — S8 Map of France, ■» 6t View of Pari*, ~ 77 Map of Italy, _ 1— ipo View of Florence, mm . 108 Map of Spain, >» ■• 108 Vimp of Madrid, — — 109 Map of England, i~> — til Map of Scotland, •— — U4 Map of Ireland, — 116 Map of North America, ^^m — IS3 Map of South America, — • — 165 A Man of Chili, — - »77 Manner of catching Cattle ia Chili 191 A Lady of Lima, •» ■- ■— 191 Map of the Weft Indiei, — > 207 Efquimaux Indiana kindling a Fire, — 2;o A Woouut of the 'uMt'ut Paitt of Nwth lAawica, ■31^ 93* V 238' »39 ' 240 V "*•/ 94s •r SSt^ s6i^ 96s ' 971 r' 271 ' ««7 < iog/ / 339', 55* '' 575 / ibid/ 576 ' S8o ^ 597 / 629 "^ ,631 / / f^ 1 L -^ J \-^ V •31 "^ 838' »3» 340 S7I ^.Lc, un me lide ot China, arc de- feiiJeJ MMIh Fall J,' 'Vj V V ^ THE NEW UNIVERSAL TRAVELLER. Asia. OF the four great parts into which the terra- queous gbbe is diftingulfhed, that of Afia claims the pre-eminence in point of prece- dency, whether we proceed on the furvey of the world by a geographical or chronological order of arrangement. Situated on the Eaft of Europe, it is the extremity of the univerfe whence the refearches of the traveller ought naturally to begin ; and it is alfo the quarter in which, according t6 the irvidencfe of hiftory, both facred and profane, the race of mankind iippears not oiily to have derived its origin, but to have produced the earlieft examples of human obfervation and atchievement. The foft and genial temperature of the Afiatic climates in general, with the great variety of delicious fruits which the foil produces without culture, petMliarly difpofe the inhabitants to the indulgence of voluptuous gra- tification. The extrfemes of luxury and effeminacy, therefore, have ever been regarded as the predominant charafteriftici of thofe nations, which, though perhaps more remarkable than any other for magnificence, una improve-nents in fome of the elegancies of life, have but rarely afforded any illuftrious inftances of heroic virtue. Nor is mention to be found in the whole an- nals of Afia, of a people that ever formed a refolution of afTerting their right to civil liberty. Afia it bounded on the north by the Frozen Sea • on the Eafl by the Pacific Ocean j on the South by the Indian Ocean ; on the Weft by the rivers Oby and Don, the Palus Maiotis, the Euxine Sea, the Uof- phorus, Hellefpont, Egcan Sea, or Archipelago; and by the Levant, the Red Sea, and the ifthmus of Suez, which feparate it from Europe and Africa. It extends between the equator and 72 degrees of north latitude, and between 25 and 148 degrees of eafl longitude : com- prehending, befides iflands, the empire of China, the feveral nations of Tartary, Siberia, Ind a, Perfia, Ara- bia, and a great part of Turky. We fliall proceed to defcribe thcfe countries in the order in which they hr/e been mentioned. H I N A. C M A i*. I. 0/ Its fituathn — hundan'ts—prtvincti—'grtat wall riviri-—lakcs-^vtlcarues— climate, /^HINA, including ChineCan Tartary, lies be- ^^ tween 21 and 55 degrees of north latitude, and between 95 and 135 degrees of eaft longitude; beihg ■bout aooo miles long, and 1500 broad. It is bounded on the north by the dominions of Ruflia, on the eaft and fouth by the Pacific Ocean ; and on the weft by Tonquin, Tibet, and Ruffian Tartary. This extenfive empire confifts of fixteen provinces, viz. Pe che li, Kyang nan, Kyang fi, Fo kyen, Che kyang, Hu quang, Ho nan, Shang tonjf, Shan fi, Shen fi, Se chuen, Quang tong, Quang ft, Yun nan, Quew chew, and Lyau ton. The Great Wall that divides China from Tarta/y, is the moft extraordinary work of the kind ever pro- jefled jy any nation ; in comparifon of which, the Roman ramparts in Britain muft appear to have been extremely diminutive. This celebrated mural fortifi- cation flretchcs fifteen hundred miles in length, being carried overmountains and valleys fromMongul Tartary in the weft, to the Kang fca in the eaft. At the latter extremity it is a huge bulwark of ftone, jutting a great way into the ocean j but in its progrefs well ward is compofcd of earth, generally terraffed and cafed with brick on both fides, but almoft every where on the outermoft. The height is moftly from twenty to twen ty-five feet, and the breadth fufficient for five or fix horfemen to iravel abreaft with "Xe, It i, paved on the top, and the gates, on the fide of China, are de- ^ fended H MODERN [Asia. i fended by forts of confiderable (Irength, which are likewife placed *t equal didances along the whole ex- tent of the ll. This wall is <°aid tc have been ercified two hundred and twenty- two years before the Chriftian «ra, with the view of preventing the incur- fions of the neighbouring Tartars, it anfwered the intention while thofe people remained divided by their feparate interefts i but the union of the Weftern Tar- tars, which happened in the beginning of the thirteenth century, furmountcl the barrier that had before been impregnable, and over-ran China with an impetuofity which terminated in the total corqueft of the empire. The provinces of China, a f w excepted, are re- markably level, and Aipplied with a great many rivers, of which the mod confiderable are Kiam or Yamce, and Hoamho. The former of thofe takes its rife in the province of Yun nan, and, running four hundred leagues, difchargcs itfelf in the Eaft fea, oppofite to the ille of Tcouramin, which has been formed by the fand that is carried along by the fore; of the river. The Chi- nefe are faid to have a proverb which imports, that Kiam has no bottom ; but from this hyperbole we may at lead infer, that, in many places, the river is of extra- ordinary depth. In its courfe, which is exceedingly rapid, it forms a great many illands, particularly bene- ficial to the country, on account of the bullrufhcs, ten or twelve feet high, that they produce, and which ferve for fuel to all the inhabitants of the adjacent parts, where there is fcarce wood fufficient for necclTary buHd- ings and fhips. From thofe bull-ruflies likewife a great revenue accrues to the emperor. Luch is the rapidity with which this river is fome- times poured from the mountains, that it frequently changes the fituation of thofe iflands, or totally de- flroying them, forms new aggregations in their place. On which account, they are furveyed by the manda- rines every three years, in order to adjuft the impofts according to the ftate in which thi.'y are found. The fecond river of China is called Hoamho, or the Yellow River, bccaufe the earth which it waOies away, efpecially in hjgh floods, renders it of that colour. It arifes at the extremity of thj mountains which bound the pro- : of Se chuen in the weft ; whence it pro- ceeds to Tartary, dircifting its courfe, for a confiderable way, along the Great Wall, at which it re-enters China, between the provinces of Shan fi and Shen A ; and, having flowed about fix hun-Jred leagues, difcharges itfelf into the Eaft Sea, not far fr.im tl e mouth of the Kiam. This river has, in former times, proved the caufe of great defolation in China ; and riotwichftanding the bulwarks which have beef erei".cd in many places to oppofe its irruption, the inhabitants ot :"ie neighbouring parts live under almoft perpetual apprehcnfion of a fu- ture encroachment. Innumerable lakes of a prodigious extent a'c likewife to be fecn in ail the provinces of this country, one in particular, named Tong ting hou, is thirty leagues in circumference. Such of them as are produced in win- ter by the torrent: from thr mountains, lay wafte the fields, which are rendered through the whole fummer b-.rrcn, far.Jy, and full of flint. Thofe that arife from fprings abound in fifl), and yield a confiderable revenue to the emperor by the fait they aflford. With refpe£l to fountains, they are not in general very fre- quent, nor of the bed quality ; which is perhaps the reafon why the Chinefe, for the moft paa, ufe water that has been boiled. There are alfo in China feveral volcanoes, or burn- ing mountains. The moft remarkable oi thofe, which is called Linofing, is of a great height, and often alarm* the adjacent country with ten de eruptions. In a .mntry fo extenfivc as China, it is reafonable to imagine that the air in the different provinces par- takes of various degrees of temperature, as well as that the foil is diftinguiflied by a regular declenfiun of fer- tility. Accordingly in travelling acrofs the empire from fouth to north, we behold a progreflive diverfitj of vegetation from the luxuriant climate of Qiiang tong, to the Tartarean frontiers of Pe che li. In the latter of thofe provinces, though the air be temperate, the rivers are frozen during four months of the year, that is, from towards the end of November, to the middle of March. It Is however remarkable, that unlefs a certain north wind blows, they never feel thofe piercing colds which the froft produces in Europe; a circuoiftance probably owing to the nitrous exhalations that arife from the earth, and efpecially to the clearncfs of the iky, the fun, even in the wintci, being hardly ever co- vered with clouds. About the end of July and thr beginning of Auguft, the province of Pe che li is an- nually vifited by periodical rains, which very fcldoqi happen at any other feafon, but arc compenfated by the dew which falls every night, and is fucceeded in the morning by a fine duft, that frequently incommodes the inhabitants, not only when abroad, but in their houfcs. The fouthern provinces, however, though pew culiarly happy in the extraordinary fertility of the foilt are often expofcd to pcftilential winds, which prove extremely deftruf^ive. Of Uajl:. CHAP. II. -birdi-—f/his—planU — ■fiffili—miiteralt^ HAV ING given a geographical account of the country, we proceed to take a view of its na- tural produce, under the diviHons of the animal, ve- getable, and mineral tribes. The indigenous animals of China are, camels, horfcs, oxen, fheep, hogs, a few elephants, and a prodigious number of all -cinds of wild bcafts, except lions. Their beft horfts, however, are brougli" from Chiiiefian Tar- tary ; thofe in tl j fouth parts of the empire being a fniall breed, unfit for draught or to carry burthens. There is a fpecies of camel no higher than an ordi- nary horfc, with two bunches on their back covered with long hair, which form a kind of faddle. The anterior bunch is upon the ftioulJcr, and tie other im- mediately before the buttocks. This animal has not fuch long legs in proportion as the common camels, and dift'crs alfo from thofe in having a fhorter and thicker neck, covered with hair as long as that of goi.'.s. They are generally of a ycllowifli dun colour^ but fome are inclined to red, and marked with an alh colour in particular places. Their legs are much thicker [Asia. afford. With general very fre- h is perhaps the pail, ure water :;inoei, or burn- ot thofe, which and often alarmt ;itions. it is reafonable It provinces par- , as well as thai lenfiiin of fer- rrofs the empire Jgrcflive diverfity = of Qiiang tong, li. Ill the liitcer e temperate, the the year, that is, to the middle of It unlefs a. certain fe piercing colds a circumftance itions that arife clearnefs of the ; hardly ever co- of July and thr Pe che li is an- lich very fcldotiji mpcnfated by the fucceeded in the tly incommode! ad, but in their 'ever, though pe- rtility of the foil, ids, which prove r. 'ijftlt'— minerals^ account of the view of its na- the animal, ve- ;, camels, horfes, and a prodigious pt lions. Their Chijisfiaii Tar- : empire being a irry burthens. ler than an ordi- ir back covered f faddie. Tlie id the other im- animal has not :oninion camels, i; a Ihorter and ung as that of k'ifli dun colour, Iced With an aQi legs are much thicker GENERAL TRAVELLER. 4 China] thirker than thofe of the common dromedary, and the, clore better accommodated for fupporting the weight of A heavy load, and enduring the fatigue of a long journey, III the mountains near Peking, there is an animal much refembling the roe-buck, which the Chinefe call ki.ing tchang tfe, that is, the mufk roe-buck. It carries no horns, and the hair is of a blackilh colour. The muflc is included in a bag, compofed of a very thin membrane, covered with extremely fine hair j to which it adheres all round the cavity in the forn. of a fait. The female of this fpecies produces no mufk, or fuch at leaft as is totally deftitute of fragrance. Thofe animals are faid to feed on ferpents, which are fo much afc<£)ed by the fcent of the mufk, at a certain diHance, as to be rendered incapable of ftirring. The ilefh of the buck is reckoned exceeding good, and fre- quently ufcd at the heft tables. In the I'outhern provinces there are all kinds of par- rots, exactly refembling thofe of America, both in plumage and loquacity. But they are furpafTed by the kni ki, or golden hen, fo named from its fupc- rior beauty to every other fpecies of the winged race. The delicate and fplcndid plumage on the head of this bird, the livelinefs of the yellow and red, the inimit- able Ihadowing of the tail, with the variety of colours in the wings, and its well-fhaped body, confpire to beftow upon it that unrivalled diftin£li()n which it has univerfally obtained from all the vriters on ornitho- logy. I'hough this bird might feem to be endowed by nature with fuch qualities as ought for ever to exempt it from falling a facrifice to the voluptucufnefs of the human palate, we are neverthelcfs informed that its flefli is more delicate thar that of the pheafant. Another beautiful bird of this country is the hai tfing, which refembles our fined falcons, but is far fu> perior in ftrcngth and fize. It is chiefly found in the province of Shen fi, and in fome parts of Tartary. Here are likcwifc domeftic birds, or poultry, of all kinds, the eggs of which, as in Egypt, are hatched in ovens heated with horfe-dung. To which we may add, that the rivers and lakes afFord great plenty of Witer-fowl, efpecially wild- ducks. The manner of catching thofe in this country, as well as in India, is very curious, and deferves ta be mentioned. When the fowler fpies his game, he wades with only his head above the water, which i^ covered with a pot full of holes, for the convenience of bresthing and feeing his obje£l. The pot is (luck all over with feathers, to deceive the gamej fo that when he ap- proaches theiii, either by fwimming or otherwife, they difcover no marks of apprehenfion : the fowler then lays hold of them, by the feet, di awing them down under the water j and the reft of the fowls, imagin> ing that their companions have only dived, are not in the Icaft difturbed, but continue fwimming round the place, till perhaps they are all taken in the fame man- ner. In the province of Quang tong there is a fpecies of butterfly, which, on account of the fiie, and the great bcai'iy of the variegated colours, is held in pe- culiar tiliniation, and ufed at court ai ornaments, They lie motionlefs on the trees in the day time, when they are eafily taken ; but in the ni^ht they flutter about much like our bats, and fevcral of them appear to be not inferior to thofe in dimenfions. China abounds in all the fame kinds of fifh that wc meet with in Europe, fuch as fturgeons, carp, foal, trout, falmon, &c, and alfo in feveral others of a delicious tafte, unknown in this quarter of the world. One of the moll remarkable among tho is the tcho kia yu, or the armour'fifli, fo named from its being covered with (harp fcales, placed in right lines one over another, in the manner of tiles on the roof of a houfc. The flcfh of it is very white, and greatly re- fembles veal in tafte. Another delicate fifli is catched in calm weather, which is dillinguilhcd by the name of the meal-fi(b, on account of its extraordinary whitenefs. The fifh of this fpecies are found in fuch prodigious flioals on fome parts of the .coaft, that it is not uncommon to take four hundred weight of them with one draught of the net. A third fpecies, railed the hoang yu, is likewife dtfcribed as being of an excellent talle, and fome of them are fo large as to weigh eight hundred pound. The gold-fifh are generally between three and four inches in length, and proportionably thick. The male is of a beautiful red from the head half way down the body, and the remaining part feems to be gilded in a manner incomparably fuperior to all the fimilar per- formances of art. The lemale is white, and has the tail, and fome part of the body perfectly like filver : their tail is not flat, like that of other fifh, but forma a kind of tuft peculiar to this beautiful fpecies. Tho delicacy of thofe fifh is reprefented as being correfpoH' dent to their elegant and fplendid appearance ; for we are told that tney are much hurt, fometimes killed, by a great noife, fuch as that of guns or thunder; as they are likewife by a violent motion, or ftrong fmell. No country produces greater variety of plants than this extenfive empire, which abounds not only in the European, but the tropical fruits, and likewife in fome plants not to be found in any other part of the world. Among thofe the following deferve prr'V-ilarly to be mentioned. The firft is the tfi chu, or the varnilh-tree, more remakable for the valuable gum which it yields, than tor any thing grand in its own appearance. Its fize is but fmall, its bark whitifh, and the leaf refembles that of the wild cherry-tree. The gum of this plant is greatly efteemed as a varnifli, and univerfally applied to that purpofe. It receives all colours alike, and if well managed, neither lofes its luftre by the changes of the air, nor the age of the wood on which it is fpread. The fecond tree is tong chu, from which a liquor is obtained of a fimilar nature to the varnifli. It To nearly i 'embles the walnut-tree, as fometimes to be ir.iitaken for it. The nut contains a thickiOi oil mixed with pulp, which, as well as the varnifli, is fuppofed to have a poifonous quality. It is often ufed alone to varnifli wood, which it preferves from the bad eiFe£ls of rain ; and likewife to give a luflre to the floors of the emperor's apartmenti| and thofe of thf grandeet. The THE MODERN [Asia. Ii i 1 t i ! t ,1 1 The third remirkable tree is the tallow-tree. It ii nearly about the height of a large cherry-tree : thf fruit is contained in a rind, which, when ripe, opens in the middle like a chefnut. It confids of white kernels of the fize of a hazel-nut, whofe pulp has the properties of tallow, and of which randies are accord- ingly made. The fourth, which is the moll extraordinary of all, is called pe la chu, that is, the white wax-tree. It grows not fo high as the tallow-tree, from which it alfo differs in the colour of the bark being whitifh, and the leaves of an oblong fliape. A fmall worm fixes itfrif to the leaves, and forms a fort of comb, the .*ax of which is very hard and (hining, and of far greater value than their common bees-wax. The different kinds of fantal or fanders-tree like- wife grow here in great plenty, as well as a tree that produces peafe, and which, for tallnefs, fpreading branches, and thicknefs, gives place to very few. The wood in greateft effecm among the Chinefe for their buildings is what they diftinguifh by the name of nan mon, and imagine will never decay. The mod beautiful, however, is the tfetam, of a reddiOi black, and variegated with numerous veins, which feem as if painted. Of this wood is made the fined fort of their cabinet work. We may rank in the fame clafs of natural produc- tions a fort of reed or knotty cane, called the bamb'jo, which fometimes grows to fuch a height that it is often reckoned among their trees. Of thofe bamboos are often made canoes or wherries, which, on account of the lightnefs of the cane, are rowed with incredible velocity. Among the (hrubs in China, there are but three or four kinds that bear odoriferous flowers; and in the catalogue of herbs we meet with one named the herb of a thoufand years, which the natives pretend never dies. But of all the (hrubs of this country, the tea- plant particularly merits attention, on account of the almoft univerfal ufe in which it feems now to be efta- blilhed. This celebrated exotic, which bears a great affinity to the myrtle, feldom grows beyond the fize of a rofc-bufli, or at mod fix or feven feet high. Its leaves are about an inch and a half long, narrow, tapering to a point, and indented like thofe of our fweet briar, which it alfo refembles in the flower. The (brub is an evergreen, and bears a fmall fruit, whufnefs— government. AMONG the improvements which this country ^ ■*■ has received by means of cultivation and art, the firft objeiSis that attra dious than elegant. They have no windows fronting the ftrcets ; the gates and principal apartments always face the fouth, as often as the fituation will admit of that afpeiSt. The moft expenfive buildings, however, and thofe in which the Chinefe difcover a whimfical extravagance, are the temples, which they rear to a confiderable height. Thefe are filled with an incredible number of idols, and before them hang lamps continually burning. Of temples of the firft rank, they reckon about four hun- dred and eighty, befides a prodigious number of others, which arc fervcd by three hundred and fifty thoufand bonzes or pricfts. The number of bridges almofl ex- ceeds belief: one of the moft celebrated is that over the river Saffrany, which joins the mountains toge- ther : it is four hundred cubits long, five hundred high, and all of one fingle arch, whence travellers call it the flying bridge. The firu£lure of feveral of thefe bridges, for the convenience of traflic, is very extraor- dinary ; of which we meet with an example in thaC over the city of Chan chew. It is built upon • hundred and thirty barges, chained to one another, yet fo as to open in any part, for the paffage of vciFels which are coiltinually failing up and down. A third fort ftands on pillars, without any arch. Some of thefe are of confiderable length and breadth, particu- larly one in the province of Fo k\en : it iserefted on three hundred pillars, is fix hundred and fixty perches in length, and one and a half broad ; curioufly builc and adorned with parapets, containing much fculpture and imagery. A fourth fort are made with .'irches, likewife of great length, breadth, and beauty. That at Oxu, the capital of Fo kycn, confifts of an hundred arches, and is above a hundred and fifty fathoms long. Among the public buildings the triumphal arches hold a confpicuous place, Thefe are commonly built of fquare ftone, carved with figures of men and beafts, and have panegyrical infcriptions to the perfons for whom they were ereflcd ; the number of tlicfc, and the fine towers in every confiderable city, is faid to amount to one thoufand one hundred and fifty-nine ; and among B them THE MODERN [Asia. t, them are about one hundred and eighty-five mtufo- leunii of cxquifitc beauty and magnificence. When wc confidcr the great expence that a laviflied on thefe ciliticu, at well is the purpoles for which they were ereAed, it is ftirpriftng that the Chinele have never yet built (hem on fuch a plan as could render their exiftencc more durable. They dig no foundation, as in other countries, but lay the flrd Hone on the fur- face of the ground t fo that the mod fumptuous build- ings foon decay. After this general account of the buildings, wc (hall take a more particular vievy of the three principal ci- ' tics, which are, Nanking, Canton, and Peking. Nanking, once the capital of China, is fituate at the end of a deep bay of the river Vangs ke ham, which is two leagues broad, and covered with an a(lo- nifhing number of trading veflcls. While it continued to be the refidcnce of the court, this city is faid to have been ninety miles in circumference. From the ruins of its old walls, it evidently appears to be greatly diminiflied in extent, and is now faid to be but twenty miles in compafs at mod. Hardly any remains arc left of its ancient magnificent palace, and other fump- tuous buildings ; and wc only fee the ruins of fome temples, imperial fepulchrcs, and other monuments. The houfes are well built, and filled with inhabitants, who carry on a flourifhing commerce. There are (lill many lofty towers, temoles, and other handfome edi- fices. The ftreets are .ved in the middle with large marble flabs, and on the fides with variety of pebbles and other flones curioufly inlaid. By fome it has been faid that the inhabitaits of Nanking amounted to thirty- two millions of foula. This ini:redible account, how- ever, appears to be greatly exaggerated. According to Kao it contains at prefent two millions, though others fix the number at one million ; but this computation is fuppofed to fall confiderably fhort of the truth. In the environs of the city there are a vaft many temples, pa- laces, pleafure-houfe;, and fine gardens ; there is parti- cularly, about fix miles from the city, a pleafant wood, about twelve miles round, of (lately pines, in the middle of which is a mount covered with fepulchral temples of ancient monarchs. About the like didance there is raifed on another eminence, a fpacious terrace of large fquare flones, with four flights of marble deps, on which a magnificent temple is erefled : the roof is fupported by a row of columns finely carved and po- lidied, twenty- four cubits high, and proportionably thick. The gates are curioufly carved in bas-relief, and inlaid with gold and illver. The windows are fenced with a kind of gold net, fo extremely fine as hardly to be perceptible : within are fcveral thrones, enriched with all forti of pearls and precious flones of immenfe value. The mod curious edifice in the city is the high oflogon tower, or pagod, covered with porcelane, painted in various colours : it has nine galleries over one another, all adorned with windows, fine baluf- tradci, fedoons, and other ornaments in relievo. A bell hangs at every end of the galleries, and the afcent to the top is by a hundred and eighty-four dept. The rooms are richly painted, carved, and gilt; and the upper gallery is adorned with variety of large figures carved in done. On the top is a fpire, which renders the whole fabric two hundred feet high. The breadth at the bottom i:; eighty feet, but diminifhes gradually upwards. A winding dair-cafe leads to the top, whence is a mod noble profpe£l of the city and adja- cent plain. Among the numerous objcfts which di- ve: fify this Undfcapc, are fome hills fituate at a didance, and formed into various fantadic fhapes, in the man- ner peculiar to the nation. The city of Nanking is yet the Urged in the empire, and ufually the icfldence of the moli eminent mandit- rines when out of employment. The gates of the city are of iron, and there are four at every entrance, one within another. Here are likewife two of the larged bells in the world, fallen to the ground by their vaft weight : the height of one is eleven feet, and the weight, including that of the clapper, is fifty thuufand pounds. In going along the drects of Nanking, a mod ofTcn- five fmell arifes from the ordure which the porters are rallying in tubs for manuring the orch-iJs, and fell to the gardeners for greens, vinegar, or money } they giving a better price for that which is come of flefh, than of fifh, which they know by tading it with thei^ tongue. Nothing is more frequent on the river than boats loaded with that filth ; and along the roads there are convenient places, whitened, with feats, and covered, for the ufe of palFcngers, erected with an economical view of accumulating the fame kind of produce. Canton, or Qiiang tong, capital of the co.-numinal province, is fituate on the ead fide of the large :i< zt Ta, about fifty miles from its mouth, and is not only the greatell port in China, but the mod frequented by Europeans, The city wall is about five miles in cir- cumference, and is entered by fevcn iron gates, through which no European, if known, is ever permitted to pafs. Here are many triumphal arches, and pagods docked with images ; but the houfes are not magnificent, con- fiding generally of one, and none of more than two dories. They have no chimneyj, indead of which a fliallow iron pot, filled with charcoal, is planted in the middle of the room in winter. The windows are made of cane or rattan. In winter they cut oyder- fhells in the fhape of lozenges, and fet them in wooden frames, which afford a very good light. In the mar- ket places, it is common to fee dogs, cats, rats, and the mod loathfome animals, expofcd to falc by the butchers ; for fuch is the tade of the Chinefc, that they make no fcruple of eating any fort of meat. It is common here to meet with beggars, of both fexes, ex- tremely ofTcnfive by their nadinefs, and who have loft their fight. It has been imagined by fome, that this endemial blindnefs is the confequence of living fo much on rice; but the difeafe is with morejudice afcribed to the hot winds which blow at certain feafons. About the months of December or January, Canton is fubjedt to very tempeduous and rainy weather, at which time all the dreets of the city are overflowed, and the water is in many places fo deep that a fmall boat might be rowed without difficulty. It is com- puted ■II China.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. piitcd that there is in this city one million two hundred thuiilanil inhabitants ; and the number of tr.-iding vef- fcls conftantly in the river, is feldom Icfs than five thnufand. It is the great mart of the European trade with China, and umnng thofc of Ibmc other nations, the Englifli have eltablilbi-d here a J'aiftory, Peking is fituated in a fruitlul plain, twenty leagues diftant from the Great Wall, and ever fiiicc the con- qut'll of China by the I'artars has been conftdered as the capital of the empire, on account of its being the rcfiJciice of the court. The walls of this city are much lefs in circuit than thofe of Nanking, but greatly fupcrior in beauty. The gates, of which there are nine, are high and well vaulted, fupporting large pa- vilions that confift of nine (lories. The ftreets run in a ftraight direfiion at leaft a league in length, and are about one hur Ired and twenty feet wide, with (hops for the moft part on both fides. The houfes, however, are far from correfponding with this magni- ficence, for they arc meanly built, and extremely low. The emperor's palace ftands in the centre of the city, fronting the fouth, inclofed by a double wall of brick ; being in length two Italian miles, and half as much in breadth. It confifts of a large mafs of buildings, with courts and gardens intcrmixt. Though it poflelTes neither the fymmetry nor beauty of European archi- tefture, yet when we view its numerous ar':hes fuftained on malTy pillars, the towering roofs fhining with gilt tiles, the fplendid ornaments of carving, varniOiing, gilding, and painting, with the pavements which are almoll all of marble, or porcclane, it excites in the mind of the fpe£lator that pleafure which arifes from great and magnificent objeiSis, where novelty cor.ipen- fatcs for the capricioufnefs of tafte, and profuii )n of embellilhment fupplies the place of more regular d( fign. The walls of the cities in China are generally ere£led fo high as to hide the profpefl of the buildings, and are fo broad that one may eafily ride on horfeback upon them. Thofe of Peking, which confift of brick, are forty feet in height, and are flanked with a great number of fquare towers uniformly difpofed at equal diftances. In fcvcral parts there are likewife fiair- cafes to ferve for the admiflion of cavalry. The multitude of inhabitants in this kingdom is almoft incredible. It has been computed that the number of families atnounts to upwards of eleven mil* lions, exclufive of beggars, mandarines in employment, foldiers, bachelors, licentiates, doctors, mandarines above age, all who live on the rivers, bonzes, eunuchs, and all perfons of the blood royal ; becaufe thofe only are polled who till the land, or pay taxes to the king. There are in the empire, according to the fame autho- rity, more than fifty-nine million of men. Some even make them three times the number that there is in all Europe. So nftoniftiing a populoufnefs naturally af- fords prefumption that the government of China muft be peculiarly favourable to the domeftic interefts of the fubjeft. Other caufes, however, confpire to this ex- traordinary multiplicat'nn, which are, the great plenty of all forts of commodities, the indelicate appetite of the people, which can be gratified with food of the vileft kind, the univerfal praiSlicc of marrying at an early age, the great internal navigation of the country, the rcluflance of the inhabitants to emigrate, with their remote and uninviting fitu.itiun in rcfpcfl of powerful and ambitious princes ; to which wc may add, the unrivalled veneration of th: Chincfu fur the parental charafler. The conftitution of China is that of an abfolute monarchy, limited in fome particul.irs by the arifto> cratical part of the nation j though wc may f.ifvly af- firm that the fuppofcd rcftriiSlion of the imperial power is in reality rather nominal than operative and effica- cacious. The emperor, fay the Chinefc, is invefted by the laws with unbounded authority, but he is obliged by the fame laws to ufe that authority with modera- tion ; a diftiniHIon too indefinite to be confidered as an impregnable bulwark to the public freedom. But even admitting fuch a coercive principle in the confti- tution, the probability of its ever being exerted feems hardly to be compatible with the extraordinary influence annexed to the royal prcrogitive. The veneration in which the emperor is held by his fubjcfls is little (hoit of idolatry ; he is ftylcd The Son of Heaven, and Sole Governor of the Earth. All places in the em- pire are in his difpofal : he is the fource of honour } by him all taxes are impofed ; his authoiity extend* even to the lives of his fubjccls ; aud he is the un- queftionable arbiter of peace and war. Even the dead, that ought to be exempted from mortal jurifdii^ion, remain under the vatTalage of this unbounded poten- tate, who either difgraces or honours them, rewards or punifhes their families, as his own almighty caprice and uncontroulable will fhalt determine. The title of duke, count, or others for which our language has no name, he frequently confers when the vanity or hu> man diftindiion is no more. He may canonize them as faints, or even command his fubjeds to pay them divine adoration. The executive government, under the emperor, is lodged in the body of mandarines, who are divided into nine clafles, and thefe fubdivided into nine de- grees ; the rank of mandarine, however, being merely titular, and conferred upon them by the emperor with- out any regard to their employments. The fubordi- nation of thofe difl^erent orders is fo perfeA, that the obedience and veneration of the inferior for the higher claiTes, as well zi ot the higheft for the emperor, are totally without example in the inftitutions of any other country. The mandarines of the firft clafs are members of the council of ftate, which is the greateft honour or dig- nity a learned man can rife to in the empire. This is the fupreme court of the kingdom, and is compofed of two other rank-: of mandarines, befides the firft al- ready mentioned. Their bufinefs is to examine and judge of all petitions to his majefty upon the moft; important affairs of the ftate. When they come to a refolution, they prefent it to the emperor in writing, who either confirms or cancels it as he thinks proper. There are likewife eleven other great courts, among which the affairs of the nation are divided. Six of them belong to the learned mandarines, and five to the military. None of thofe courts, however, can deter- mino 8 THE MODERN ■■r \< ti mine the afTair committed to it without the concurrence of the uthiT : each of ihem h.ii a fupciior, who exaiiiiiiCi all that is tranfai^teii, and if he finds any er- ror, iircfrnlly ac(|uaints the emperor wiili it, In Cliina, thole men are c.illcd Mad Dogs, on atcnunt of thi; mifchivf of which they are frequently the iiillrunicn^s. The peculiar employment of the fird of thole courts ii to furaifli all the kingdom with mandarines i incnqiiiie into their meiits and demerits, and to tcprelcnt them to the emperor, that they may either be promoted or degraded, as a reward or puniflin\ent for their coniluiH. The fccond court is the emperor's great lrc;i!'ury or court of exchequer, which has the management of all the treafurcs, revenues, and taxes ; as alio of the ex • penccs. The third court has the infpeiHion of the ceremonies, rites, fcienccs, and arts ; it has the charge of the emperor's mufic, of the temples, and of the la- crifices which the emperor offcn to the fun, moon, heaven, earth, and to his anceftors. It has full power over arts and mechanics, and over all the religions pro- fcOcd in the empire. The fourth fovcrcign court has the dircwiion of war and military alF.iiis thiough the whole kiiigilom : it choofes and prefers all officers, whofc ftation it likcwifc regulates in the diliVrcnt pro- vinces. The fifth tribunal is the criminal court of the empire : and the ftxth is called the court of public works ; it has the care of building and repairing the royal palaces and tombs, and the public temples ; it alfo infpetfls the towers, bridges, canals, and high roads. Thefe fix courts have under them forty-four of infc rior authority. One court contains a great number of learned mandarines, the members of which are the pre- ceptors of the prince who is to fucceed to the imperial dignity. I'hey write all the tranfaiflions at court, or in the empire, which defervc to be tranfmitted to po- flcrity. They compofc the general hirtory of the kingdom ; and they are properly the emperor's men of learning whom he choofes to be counfcllors. Another court is the royal fchool of the empire. A third court is appointed, the privilege of which is to tell the emperor what faults he commits in government ; but notwithftanding the manly freedom which fome of the members of this court arc faid to have excrcilbd on particular occaliuns, there is reafon to think that, if it has not really been inftituted for the purpofc rather of gratifying the vanity, than controuling the power of the prince, its authority is entirely nominal, and that the language of rcmonftrance never was held to the emperor with conflitulional and inviolable fccurity to the perfon from whom it proceeded. Bcfidcs the courts already mentioned, refident at Peking, each province has a fovereign court on which all the others depend. 1 he prefident of this court has the title of viceroy, and ads immediately under the emperor and the fix fupreme courts in the capital. Some viceroys have the government of two, three, or four provinces, efpecially on the frontiers of Tartary. Bc- fides the viceroy, there is in every province a vifitor, and another officer of great note, who has the com- mand of all the troops in the province. There is likewife no metropolitan city without its civil and criminal court, which a£\s in the fame affairs as the [A8IA_ fovereign courts at I'cking, Every province is fubdi- vided into dillrii!)s, eaih uf which has a mandarine, who is «n inlpciftor of all public tranfa£)ions. It is his bufincfs to caufe the governois of cities »iid towns to pay the emperor's duties pundlualiy. I'he number uf learned mandariiici throughout the empire is thirteen thoufand fix hundied and forty- feven, and that of the military eighteen thoufand i nc hundred and fixty-feven. They are promoted to higher em- ployments by ret,iilar progrellion every three years. When a mindarint's father or mother diis he muft re- fign his oflice to mourn for the I'.ime fpace of time | deeping upon a litilc lliaw by the tomb, eating for fume months noihing but rice boiled in water, and wearing, for the (iril year, a garment of fackcloth. The emperor, like other eartcrn princes, is feldom feen in public ; ("pending his time chiefly in the palace amidfl the ladies of his court. He has the liberty to nominate his futccffbr, wm rn he may not only choofe from the royal family, but 'lom amongfl his other fub- jciHs. We are infoimed that fi,me of the fovereij^ns of China, finding none of the ir own children, though numerous, fit to fupport the weight of a crown, have chul'en for their fiiccellors men of obfcure birth and fortune, but wha were eminent for their virtue and abilities. For many ages, however, it has been the practice to reflrii^ the election to their own family, though it appears that the obje£l of royal favour it not always the oldcft, A few falutary maxims imprefTcd on the minds of the Chinefe from their earlieft age, feem to be pro- du>nivc of greater influence on the public tranquillity, than the political conlfitution of the nation is calcu- lated to maintain. One of thofc !s, that the emperor is univerfally confidercd as the father of his people, between whom and their fovereign, as head of the great family of the empire, all the reciprocal duty and alFeiSlion of parent and children are fuppofed to exif(, alinoft without the pofTibility of violation on either fide. This opinion, fo favourable to public order, pervades the whole body of the empire, and is remarkably dif- fufcd through all the different degrees of fubordinatiun; which it likcwifc tends to prefervc from the meancft fubjeiSl in the kingdom, to thofe of the moft elevated rank. The fame principle that fecurcs the patriarchal authority of the fovereign, injoins children fuch love and obedience to their parents, as never was carried in any other country to an equal pitch of cnthufiafm i and it is extended with more than common veneration to all who adminifter the executive department of the ftatc. Another moral principle cQablilhcd among them is, that nil people eught to obfcrvc towards each other the flriiEleft rules of civility and complail'ance, as the mofl eft'eiHinl means both of fecuring obedience to the laws, and reftraining individuals from any encroach- ment on the rights of fociety. So great is their atten- tion to this olijedt, that certain ceremonies and modes of behaviour arc prefciibcd for the ufe of the people, almoft in every circumftancc of life ; to negledt or de- viate from wMch etiquette, would be confidcred as indelible infamy. By the laws of the empire parents are laid under fuch an inducement to give their children good ii [Asia China] THE M viiicc ij fubJi- IS A mandarine, aiftioMS, It is ilics i.iiJ towni throughout the anil forty- (even, nd (jiu hundred tu higher em- ry three yc.ir». diis he mull re- fjiatc of time J nil<, eating fur in water, and f lackcluth. inccs, is fcldom 1y in the palace as the liberty tu not only choofe ft his other fub- f the fovereigns children, though " a crown, have bfcure birth and their virtue and it has been the eir own family, lyal favour ii not m the minds of fccm to be pro- blic tranquillity, nation is calcu- that the emperor r of his people, as head of the iprocal duty and ippofed to ex id, on on either fide. : order, pervades remarkably dif- }f fubordinatiun ; rom the mcaneft :he moft elevated :s the patriarchal ildren fuch love er was carried in of enthufiafm ; nmon veneration cpartnr.cnt of the (hcd among them wards each other plaifance, as the obedience to the n any cncroach- :at is their atten- onies and modes i: of the people, to negledl or de- be confldcred as : empire parents ive their children good cooil education, that if any of the latter commits a ciiiDc, and cannot be taken, the ma^illrate fecurcs the father, who is fcvcrcly baftinadocd fur not having taught his Ion good manners. AniidH all the fpcciuus rcltiaint'i, however, which the fingular conditutiun of China appears to have impofed on the inhabitants for the fccurity of public virtue, the adminillration of go- vcrnnicnt is perhaps the molt corrupt that i> to be found in any country. From the highell fovercign tribunal, to the nuuidannes of the lowvll rank, venality univer- fally prevails, and the mod rapacious peculation is ex- ertirtd by all orders of the magi Urates over every province of the empire. That (edition and popular commotions prove not more frc(|uciilly the conl'cijuencc of thofe flagrant abufcs of the (late, is to be iniputed chiclly to the profiifion of all the ncced'aries and luxuries uf life, in which the empire abounds ; and we may add, to the diflimulation, mutual diflrull, and I'uppref- fion (if the fpirit of cnlcrprize, that naturally uTult from tl'.e edabliflied mode of education ; with the ex- treme didiculty of moving the fprings «. revolt, and exciting a general infurreillion in fo unwieldy and cx- tcnfivc an empire. CHAP. IV. Of the revtnuti—mililiiry fcrcf—-l)igh-roadi'-^maHn4r if traveliing—ag ruulturt^—gardening, 1 T is difficult to afcertain the revenues of China "* with any degree of prccifion, becaufe, befides the pecuniary taxes, vafl fums arc levied on commodities. According to the mod authentic information, the trea- fury receives every year in money about twenty-two millions of Cliinefe crowns ; each of which amounts to fix (hillings of Uritifli coin. But the rice, corn, fait, filk, cloth, and other articles of produce and ma- nufaflure, with the cudoms and forfeited cdates, are computed to be upwards of fixty millions of crowns. By a particular calculation, the ordinary revenue of the emperor is faid to be at lead twenty-one millions fix hundred thoufand pounds of our money, which is carried to the mandarines by the inhabitants, without the intervention of any officer appointed to colleifl it. The military force, as in mod other countries, con- fids of cavalry and foot foldiers. The latter of thcfe is computed at about five hundred thoufand, and the number of cavalry, which is ufually dationed round Peking about one hundred thoufand. This prodigious multitude is condantly kept in pay, for the purpofe of fupprcffing robberies, or extinguifliing any fcdition that may arife in the empire, rather than as a defence from invafion ; and it is faid, that upon occafion of any fuch internal tumult, the cavalry perform their march with extraordinary celerity. Their uniforms are fliort gowns of blue Nanking duff, with rattan caps, ortwmcntcd with a bunch of red hair. The common arms of the Chincfc are the bow, and a long fcymiter. Fire arms have hitherto been little ulid, yet muflcets begin to be more generally carried by the emperor's order. Though cannon had long fince been invented in this country, it neither was well cad No, I. O D E R N 9 nor proportioned, till the foundery was put under thd diro^tion of a pcrfon named Vcibicrt, a Jefuit, who went thither in the quality of a niidiunary. The pro* feinon of fuldier here ilckendi (rom father to fon { the emperor not only allowini; them competent pay, ac- cording to their dation, but alfurice fu(Hcicnt fur their whole families, which is furniflied by the provinces fur that purpule. They are indrudcd in military exer- cife, though greatly inferior to the dexterity of £uro- rop. an troupe ) and they arc (ar from meriting the charai^Ur of warlike, cfprcially fiiice their conqued by the Tartars. Their iduc.ition, it mud be acknow- ledged, is very unfavouiablc tu the fpirit either uf va- lour or adivity : for their minds, from an early age, are chicHy habituated to fulijeiiU cf moral fpeculaiion ) and the perfefl llturity uf the enipite from abroad, joined tu the pacific difpofition ; going to or returning from their pofli, whrre thry live at the public exp.ncc, and at every fljtjv have horfri »iul carri.igi't provi>lcJ for thcin. Other travcllcri miy lie accnmmoJatrd with the fame convcniencei, (hat can procure an order for the pur- pofr, which ii not difficult to obtain i or they may he The fivjthern provincei produce great quantitiei of lice, ai the land lici low, and the country abuunda inu;h in water. One method of watering the ground ft'emi to be pc> culiar to this country, and afTorJi a Kriking inftance not only of the invention, but the laborioui applicatioit of the people tu the practice of hufbanJry. The fields fupplied with every thing at their own charge, at a j which are of the fame level are divided into plots, but moderate price, A book of the roads is puhliflied by ^ where great inc(|iijlitiis occur, thefe are cut intoDorici authority, containing an account of the dillancci ol towns, and the moll convenient Hagrs. The jnurnies of the mandarines arc performed with particular pomp and fnlemniiy. If he be of the mili- tary order, he rides on horfcback, but if an officer of the civil department, he is accommodated with a chair. Keforethem are carried feveral painted llagK, with large charadert in gold, ixprcfling their titles and dignities, in the form of an amphitheatre ( and molflure being neceflary ro the giowth of the rice, the farmers make rcfcrvuirs at proper diK.incef, to retain both the raiit and the water that deiccnds from the mounuins, fur the purpofe of dillributing the colleiSioii over (he ad- jacent fields. The conveyance is performed by means of a hydraulic engine, eviremcly finiple in condiuittiuit as well as management. 1( is conipofcd of a great while they nrr fhndcd by fplcndid umbrellas from the number of fmall pieces of board, fix or fcvcn inches heat of the fun. In the f'ont of the procclCon walk a nuinbet of men, with high crowned hats, making a hi- deous noife, and calling incelTantly to clear the way for the mandarine. Thefe are followed by others with chains in their hands, which they arc ready to (hrow round the necks of fuch as (hould not inftanily obey the fummons, who are dragged in that manner as a pu- tiifhmen( for (heir atrocious offence } while a band of liftors that fucceeds, and armed with various imple- ments of torture and execution, exercifc the mull mer- j cilefs crucltyon the miferabic victims of (heir refcntmen(. There happens, however, but very few inllances of this kind ; for the refpc£l which is paid by the people to the mandarines in general, even exceeds the bounds of moderation. When a perfon of that character admi- flers juftice in the courts, he is never addrefTed but on the knee : and when he takes a journey, all the inha- bitants of the towns through which he pafles run to to meet him, proffering their fervices, and conducting him on the road with great folcmnity, while tables ele- gantly covered with fweetineats, tea, and other liquors, arc difplaycd on each fide in honour of the venerated tiavcller. If he proceeds by water, which is often the cafe, his retinue is equally magnificent. In travelling through China neither hedge nor ditch is to be obferved, and but few trees, fo much are the natives averfe to lofing the fmalleft fpace of ground. Agriculture is here in the greatcft edcem) and profe- cuted with uncommon ardour. Such is the induflry of thofe people that even the mountains are not ex- empted from cultivation ; .".nd it is common to fee (htm cut into tcrraffcs, one above another, from the bottom to the top, which form a mod beautiful profpeA, The hills indeed arc for the mofl part not rocky, as in Europe, but compofed of a light and f^rous foil j in fuch as are rocky, however, the Chinefe loofvn the llunes, making of them little walls to fupport the tcr- rad'cs, which they afterwards level and fow with grain. I'he provinces that lie to the nor(h and weft produce wheat, barley, feveral kinds of millet, tobacco, peafc fquare placed at equal dillanccii, and ftiun!> through the middle in the form of a ring. This chain ii laid in a wooden trough made of three planks, in fuch a manner that the lower part of the ring lic:i at the bot- tom of the cavity, which it exiully fills, and pafTcs round a moveable cylinder that tur.-s un an axle: the upper part of the ring is fiipporied by a kind of drum, furnifhed with fmall boards, fu fixed that they tally with the boards of the chain, This drum, when turned about by a power applied to its axle-tree, puts the chain in motion, the inferior part of which being plunged into the water, and the upper part placed at the fame height to which the fluid is to be raifc:d, dif- charges it in a continued ftream, by means of a tube, on the fpot (hat is intended to be watered. This en- gine is likewife ufcd for the clvanfing of canals, on which occafion all the peafants in the neighbourhood aflid at the opera(ion. I'he foil is fo ligh( (hat they plow with a fingle buffalo or heifer } after which they clean the ground of all weeds, and if the field be intended for rice, they drench it plentifully with water. They fow the rice in fmall beds or plots, whence, having attained to the height of fix or eight inches, it is tranfplanted in ftraight lines, as our gardeners do their beans. The growing crop is conftantly fupplied with water till it is almofl ripe ; when, the water being dried up, they cut, and frequently alfo threfh it out in the field. This fpecies of grain has an ear nearly refcmbling that of barley, and ufually grows four feet, or fometimes two yards high. They prepare the ground for wheat and barley by grubbing up the grafs and roots, and burning them with Araw ; after which, and having fified the earth fine, they lay the feed in a ffraight line in drills, not according to the common practice in other countries. It is ufual with the Chinefe to bury in the rice fields balls of hog's-hair, or that of any other animal, which they imagine enriches the land, and meliorates (he crop. On (his account, thofc whofe bufinefs it is (o (have the head, are I'cry careful of preferving the hair V'hich are always green, with black and yellow peafe, that ferve indead of oats for horfes. They alfo pro- ! for the market. The price of this article is generally ducc rice, but in Icfs quantity, and, in fomc places, i a halfpenny a pound, and barks may be often fe«n of fuch a hardnefs as to require extraordinary boiling, loaded with no other commodity. Wbea China.] H E M D E N il When til' pLint brgini to car, if the larnJ b- moif- tcneJ with (juing- water, they mix quick lime with it, from an opinion tlut it killi worms and iiifBifli, dc- flfo/i weidi, il 1.1 iiKTiafci the fcttilily of the ground. It il reiiiarkjlile (hit llic Chinefe have no mradowi, natural or artificial, nor have the UmH conception of f.illowing, but fow M their Undi with grain. So far, however, is the ground from being cxhaufted by thi» uninterrupted couifc of agriculture, th.it it annually yidda two crops. With marie, ai a manure, they are totally unacquainted, but make ufe of common fait, Jime, afhcs, and all foiti of animal dung, particularly ordure. Urine alio ii univerfally |ircltived lor the fame purpufc, and li^'d to advantage. InlUad of h.iy, their liorfes, bulf.ilocs, and other labnuiiiig iinimals, are fed with flrav/, roots, be.uu, and ^^r.iin of every kind. Amidft all the attention beftowtd on huflLndry by this iiuluflrious and economical people, ilieir hopes of a plentiful h.irvcft are often difappointcd by the pro- digious fwari.is of lucufts with which many of the pro- vinces Hte vilited, which happens particularly when great floods arc fullov/ed by a very dry feafon. The peculiar prolperity of agriculture in this coun- try fccms to be greatly owing to the high elliination in which it is univerfally held. Wc are informed that, through a long fjccefliin of a^cs, it has been the am- bition of every emperor to inciit the didiuAion of being the fird hufbandinan in the realm ; and two inftanccs are mentioned of pcrfons being nominated to the royal dignity, on no other account than that they had culti- vated their humble farms with extraordinary application and fuccefs. To honour and protefl this ufeful art appears to be one of the mod important objeiHs of go- vernment ; and the practice of it, as well as receiving encouragement by advantageous privileges, it farther promoted by an annual folemnity, to which the hi- flory of no other people affords any limilar example. On the fifteenth day of the lird moon, in every year, which generally concfponds to the beginning of March, the emperor in perfon performs the ceremony of open- ing the ground. In great pomp he proceeds to the field appointed for the ceremony, accompanied by the princes of the blood, the prefidents of the great tribu- nals, and a vad number of mandarines. Two fides of the field are occupied by the emperor's officers and guards ; the third is allotted for the hufbandmen of the province, who repair hither to behold their art honoured and pradtifed by their fovcreign ; the fourth ii rcferved for the mandarines. The emperor entering the field alone, proftrates him- felf on the ground, and nine times flrikes his head againft it in adoration of Tien, the God of heaven. Afterwards, in a prayer compoled by the tribunal of public rites, he invokes the blefTing of the Almighty on his labour, and that of his people; when, in qua- lity of grand pontiff of the empire, he facrifices a bullock, which he offers up to Heaven, as the origin of all happinefs. While the aflillants cut the viftim in pieces, and place it on the altar, the emperor is prefented with a plough, to which are yoked a pair of bullocks magnificently caparifoncd : then laying afide hit royal robes, he takes hold of the handle of the I plough, and turns up fcvcral furrows the whole length of the field ; when, with a complail'anl air, rcfigning the inOrumcnt to the niandarincs, (hey fucceflively follow his exumple, emulating c;'.ch nlher in perform- ing ihii honourable labour with the greatet) dexterity, 'I'he cercniuiiy ends with diltributiii).^ money, and pieces of fluff, among the hufbandmen prefent i the moft aifiive of whom liiiifli the remaining labour, before the emperor, with great alaeiily and aildrefs, tiori'e (line after, when the lands are fufHcicntly prepared, (he rmpcror returns to the field in procelCon, and begins the lowing of the grain, in the prcfence of his ufual retinue and (he htifbindmcn of the province. Similar ccicmonies are performed on the fame day in all the provinces of the empire, by the viceroys, afTilled by all the magiflratcs of their departments, As a farther incitement to a^ricultuial induflry, the viceroys of the fevcral provinces fund every year to Peking the names of fuch hufbandmen as have parti- ticularly diflinguifhcd themlehcs in ilirir employment. Thefc names are preiented to the emperor, who con- fers on thofc who hear (hem lome honour;ihlc title, as a mark of the royal approbation. Hut if any perfon has made an ufeful difcovery, which tends to the im- provement of hufbandry, he is invited to the capital, his journey being defrayed at the public char >e, where he is introduced to the emperor, who, after .1 reception full of the m«ft attentive affability, fends him home, not only diftinguilhcJ by honourable titles, but loaded with benefits and favours. The Chinefe afcribe the invention of the plough, and feveral inflruments of agriculture, with the proper method of fowing wheat, rice, barley, and other grains, to fome of (heir emperors ; whole fucccllbrs arc faid to have written treatifcs on tillage, the nature of foils, and the manure proper for each, which ferve to this day as the flandard of praflice on thofe fubjedls. It is certain, however, that the patronage fliewn by the monarchs of this country is produdtivc of the moft be- neficial effects to the (late, and merits the imitation of other fovcreigns. The gardening of the Chinefe appears to be regu- lated by the fame fantaffic talte that is obfervable in the flyle of their bu'ldings. The beauties of nature are thofe which '.hey juflly admire ; but in endeavour- ing to copy her, they conflantly deviate into the finical intricacies of art. We feldom meet here with ave- nues or fpacious walks, as in our European plantations { but the ground is laid out in a variety of fccnes, where the vifitant is led by winding paffages cut in the groves, to the feveral points of view, each of which is marked by a feat, a building, or fome other obje£l. The perfcdion of their gardens confifts in the number, beauty, and diverfity of thofe fcencs, to which they give the different appellations of pleaflng, horrid, and enchanted. Their enchanted fcencs anfwer, in a great meafure, to what we call romantic, and in thofe they make ufe of feveral artifices to excite furprize. Some- times a rapid dream or torrent is condudied under ground, the noifc of which ftrikcs the ear of a ftranger, who is at a lofs to know whence it proceeds. At other times the rocks, buildings, and other objeAs which I a C E N I'. RAF, T n A V t L L V. II. ' . I [Ama. whivh form lh« coiniiofition, arc iUi\iiireJ in fucli • I Uiii] univerfjlly cnnfiJirrJ ii on* of the iliHUc manner that ih« wintl, jiilDiii^ t!iroji(h variuut iiiivr- | guiHiing ni.irki of a KtiitUiiiiii. Bclure iht,ir con* fticcit iiiil kJvItK'i, c.iiifVi llrjo^c ail J uncomni'in inur- I quell by the 'Vmuu, ihc Chincre ul'cd to wrur ihcir muri I wliili UUrcuiit kintli ut irccs, pl;ii^i«, tnJ ^ huir uf f,"m l>'ii,!(h, unJ iy« ic up ai our wumm Ju tinweri, with a vati^ty of the rircll birJi aiiJ ani:iult { in a rull ^ bui fiiicc thjt pcrioj ihcy have b i;ii nunu-r.iblc pUccn, icic-tbcraie ill* mixC niuJalatidn of ' ultvr tlie 'I'uit.vr f.idiiuii with iluir hi'aJi (havcJ, Iravin^' vuc.ll aiiil iiuiiini.itc fuuiiJi, nnly unc Ium^; luck hanging I'ruin the ctnwn, over In ihcir fcenci of hurror, they iniroJiice impcnJiny which ihiy wejr a cap in the furm of a bell, Thin rock.i| iluk cAvcrni, aiiJ imp tuoui cat:iracli ruHiiK); covering, hawivcr, not coining fu low ai (heir ran, down the mnuiitaiin from nil li.Ici i iIk- iic'i ju ;ip- pirrntly fluttcrej by the violence i>f tcmpclls i fume are tliruvtii J'lwn, uiiJ intercept iho cuurfo of the tor- rent* 1 oilicri I'c'.nj ai if bl ill'J by |i-litiiing : the builJingi arc fuirn; m niiin, oilicri hulf cimrunicil liy fire I and I'oinc mil-.Tililc huts fcattertd in the nioun- laini ferve both to indicate the c;. Hence an. I wretched- n.' « of the iiili.ibil.iiiis. Thofo fccnes un; generally thiy cjiry a fan in iIkIi' han.lt >u di.'t'(.'nd thrm (runt the fun. Their g.tnncntt ciinfill uf a lun){ vcft, that rtJihri to the i;r,j, uut uttiy una in dretting, 1 ney ulr neither tablc-cluth, napkins, fpoons, knives nor forks, but inftead of ihofe, two little (hort flicks of ebony tipped with filvcr, with which they lift their meat very dextroudy. Their tables and chairs are remarkably high ; and at an entertainment, each- perfon fits at a feparate table, on which meat and rice are ferved in plate, or China cups and faucers. They cat their meat cold, but drink their liquor hot : of the latter, tea is the principal, which they always drink without fiigar. In the morning a large tin vcflel is made full ^f it, to ferve the family for the day. In the manner of conducing an entertainment they are of nil people the moft ceremonious. A perfon (lands No. 2. to grave and induftrious a people, and ihry pi. ctllc ;ill the kinds with which we are acquainted in Europe ; fuch as cards, dice, chefs, &c. Of tholo the latter is fo fadiionablc, that it is reckoned a nccell'ary part of the education of young women, with whom it duns to occupy the place of dancing. This extrii(irdin;uy propenfity is the more furpiifing, as the IiidnlgciRc of it is prohibited by the laws ; notvvithllauding wIikIi there are inftances of men who have fo iiuino.Uiauly given way to their paflion, as to play away their tltates, wives, and children, at hazard upon a caul, or a fuigle caft of the die. The greateft feftival in the country is that of the lanthorns, which is celebrated by all ranks of the people D with i i\ ■f?^4 ^ilij^r- 'I f.t'i •?i. IH ■• •: •i^-:\': 'VmV, •.>v;^V\^!' ^-^'^^ "-'un-u 1.1 ..-"■■••'.:.;.•' I fi rl .1ST* 1T« •.rW;-.r:«;^',; ri "n.-r.-i^'^.l-w',' m: ui:»i;mc»»-»v». tan .— j< • yy ,..y. T N the foutlicrn provinces of China, the men are i ■■■ generally a good deal under niiJdle fize, and of a. t,iwny colour ; but towards the north both tlicir ftaturc and conipLxion arc improved. They have ll.it bro.iJ i faees, bl^ick hair, little dark eyes, (liort nofe,:, and tliin bcartlo ; pulling off the greater part of then-, with tweezers, iiidead of fliavin;3,and rcfervlng only wl-'f- kcrs, wi;h foinc long hairs on the bottom of the chin. The nail on the little finger of the left hand is fuffercd to p;row upw.rd of an inch and a half long hy people of condition, and fcraped and poliflicd with j^reat care, indeed is the chaflity of the nation, that their langi:agc hardly contains one woid which cxprLflcs the niofl dc- ii-rate c-motion of virtuous love, far kfs u lafcivious idea. The featureb and complexion of the women approach much more lo the Kuropcan coniclijicfs than thofe of the men, and though they have fmall eyes lying deep, and flat nofcf^, ihey arc for the mod part highly agree- able not only in their faces, but their (hape. /.ittlc feet, however, they clfccm llieir principal beauty j to attain which, thofe parts are fo fettered in their infancy, that they never grow to their natural fizc j the foot of a woman being nu bigger than that of » child of three Asia.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. »i ''^''-'^-^.y^ a ", • ,.,>5 , < 1 •"iiC5,-.-.|< that their language jrifles the mod Je- ffs u lafcivious idea, ic women approach iiicfs than ihofc of i!l eyes lying deep, I'art highly agrcc- lli.\pc. /.ittlc feet, bc.iuly J to attain their infancy, thaf sc J the foot of a jf » cliild of three ' " ■ vears yean old, This capricious cuftom obliges them to move very aukwardly ; but by the no Icfs arbitrary cuftom of being entirely excluded fror.i public life, anu all foclal intercourfe with the othir fcx, It is not much that they indulge themfelvcs in walking. The hcad- drcfs of the Chinefe ladies confifis of fcveral curls, in- terfpcrfed with little tufts ot gold and fiher flowers, or other ornaments of the fame fubflance. The young ]adics wear for the molt part a kind of crown made of pafteboard, and covered with fine fiik, the front of which rifcs in a point above the forehead, and in fome covered with diamonds. In thofe, the upper part of the head is adorned with flowers, either natural or aril- ficlal, mixt with fmall bodkins, the ends of which fliine wi»h jewels. Elderly women, however, particu- larly of the lower clafs, arc contented with a piece of fine filk wrapt feveral times round the head. Their gowns are very long, and cover them from head to foot in fuch a manner, that nothing but their face can be feen. Their hands arc always concealed under long wide fleeves, which -Imofl drag on the ground. Their garments are of different colours, red, blue, or green, according to their fancy ; but violet or black is worn only by elderly women. On their feet they wear em- broidered ihoes, with long piqued tecs. The whole drefs of the Chinefe ladies is fuch as fets ofl:" the un- common modefty which appears in their looks and de- portment. In the drefs of the Chinefe, efpccially the men, the ear is always left bare, and it is remarkable that among this people, this part of the body is univcrfally long, broad, dangling, and of a fubflancc rather flefhy than cartilaginous. To the cuftom of the ears being conflantly expofed, is probably owing the kind ot deaf- nefs fo common in the country, that a Chinefe who has attained his fortieth year, is feldom free fiom it. The nails of the ladies' fingers are never paired, but kept very clean : they allow them to grow more than twc i.iches In length, to (hew that they are not cm- ployed in fervilp work. The Chinefe not only ufe the fame kinds of flefli, fifh, and fowl as the Europeans, but even fuch as we fliould reckon abominable. In general, howeve', ;hcir food confifls chiefly of rice, roots, and garden-fluff, with, frequently, broths and foups. Their meat is either broiled or boiled, and inftcad of bringing a joint to table, it is previoufly cut into fquare bits, of the fize of dice. Salt or pepper are likcwife never brought before company, but only ufed in drefling. They ufe neither tablc-cloth, napkins, fnoons, knives nor forks, but inftead of thofe, two little fhort flicks of ebony tipped with filvcr, v..th which they lift their meat very dextroufly. Their tables and chairs are remarkably high ; and at an entertainment, each- perfon fits at a fepar.its table, on which meat and rice are ferved in plate, or China cups and faucets. They eat their meat cold, bu; drink their liquor hot: of the latter, tea is the principal, which they always drink without fugar. In the morning ,\ large tin vcflel Is made full of it, to ferve the family for the day. In the manner of condufling an entertainment they are of all people the moft ceremonious. A perfon ftands No. a. 'n the room, whofe h'ufinefs it U to k^ep time, and regulate the motions of the company in the excrcife of the talilc. A: a fignal given by him they ail lilt the meat to their moi^iis at once, anJ afierwards diink by the fame dircflion j in pei forming v. ilch they take the cup in both hands, firfl carrying it as high as the head, and then put it to their lip.-, Virithout cxpreflinj any compliment to each other eithei in woid or ^cflurc. Not to obfervc pun£iuality in thcfe motions Is rec- koned extremely rude. Wjicn a frcfli difh appears, the compi'iiy again flouriflt their chopfticks, and having taken twvi or three moiithfuls, the madcr of the cerc- ivnnics males a figr for then to conclude tlit rcpr.li ; at which '.hey all lay down their inftrunicnts v\i'.h iiic fame exadlncfs of difcipllne. The liquo. Is next pie- fcntcd, of which thry fip a little : by the etiquette, however, they arc not obliged to dtii k unlcis thty plcafe, though it be aKolutely nectflary that tl ry ac- com. any each ot ler in the motion ot 'he cup. They remain filcnt at t«l,ic three or lour hours, till the- rn.if- ter gives the fignal to rife j when they walk iir.o the garden, and afterv/ards return to a defcrt, confifting of dried fruits and fwcet meats, which they c.it with their tea. They ufe no wine, though they have plenty of grapes ; but they make a ftrong liquor, refinibliiig muni, by an Infufion of wheat in boiling water ; and a diftilled fplrit from rice, which is always drank hot, and reputed by our European failors to be of a vciy innocent quality. When the ceremonies of the table arc concluded, it is ufual to introduce a fet of players for the entcrt.un- ment of the company. No women are allowed to be.:r any part in thofe theatrical performances, but tin- fe- male charafler is perfonated by young men or boys of an effeminate air and countenance. The exhibitions are either of the tragic or ctmic kind, but generally of both in fucceflion ; the fubjcdts of the former being chiefly taken from the life and heroic aflions of fonie brave man among their anceftor>. The players are habited in fumptuous drcfles, and arc fald -o perform with great propriety both of gcflurc and i.\prc.Tion ; often fcnfibly rttefting an European fpeiElator, il ough ignorant of the linguagc with which the adtion is ac- companied. The public plays are genirally erne uded either with tumbling, and combating with wild beafls, or by fome humorous i-'-;i£o.''lme. The Chinefe Uic wonderfully ii'diiflcd to gaminij, for fo grai'C and induftrious a people, and they pr-iftllc all the kinds v/hh which we are acquainted in Europe ; ^uch as cards, dice, chefs, &c. Of thofe the latter is fo fafhionablc, that it is reckoned a nLceflary part of the education of young women, with whom It (ienis to occupy the place of dancing. Thiii extraurdinaiy propenfity is the more furprifing, as the indnlgcnte of it is prohibited by the laws ; notwitliltauding wIikIi there are inftances of men who have fo iiniTii).liraii.ly given way to their pafTinn, as to play away ihcir ellalcs, wives, and children, at hazard upon a caid, or a fiiiglc taft of the die. The greateft feflival in the country is that of the lanthorns, which is celebrated by all ranks of the people D with »4 THE MODERN [China. I ■k with a profufion of expencc. On this occafinn, a muU titiidc of idols are fet up in (liferent quarters of the towns and villages, round which the inhabitants af- femble in t.intaltic habits and maflcs. Thus drcfl'ed, a great number make the circuit of the pl;'ce, either riJing upon afl'.'s, or a- foot, while before them marches a long protcliuin of laiithorns carried on poles. Thole vehicles, which are of various forms, arc lighted with many lamps, and accompanied with the difcordant rattling of drumj and inlfrumcnts of brafs. The chief folemnity, however, is to be fcen in the pagodas and the palaces of the great mandarines, where fomc of the lanthorns coft no kfs than two or three hundred crowns. They are hur.g up in the (hitclieft halls, fome of thcin being twenty cubits fquarc, and illumi- nated by a vaft number of lamps and candles, the light of which difplays the paintings, while the fmoke com- municating motion, the fi^rurcs within the lanlhorn are variouHy agitated in a thoufand different dirci5lions : there m;iy be feen horfes galloping, carts drawn, fliips under fail, armies marching, and innumerable decep- tions too tedious to be mentioned. This fplendid fef- tival is cik-brated on the fifteenth of February, when the whole extent of China appears as a general confla- gration, fiom the multitude of illuminated lanthorns, 'and of the curious firc-works, in which the inhabitants t)f this country excel all the nations of the world. Another great feftival is kept at the conclufion of the old year, and the beginning of the new, which always commences with the firft new moon fubfequent to the fifth of February. On the laft night of the old year, in all houfes, the Tons kneel before their fathers, the profoundefl reverence. In pafling by a perfon of eminent quality, or receiving fuch into the hoiifc, the cuflom is to bend one knee, and remain in that pofture, till he who is faluted puts an end to the compliment, by vouchfafing to raife the other party, which is always immediately performed. But when a mandarine in of- fice appears in public, it would be reckoned a mark of great infolcncc to accod him with any falutation, unlefs when there is occafinr to fpeak with him. The rule in fuch cafes is, flepping a little afide, to keep the eyes on the ground, and the arms acrofs the fides, till he be gone part. Very intimate acquaintances are permitted to make viflts without ceremony, but thofe who are not on this footing muft conform to certain modes which arbitrary cuftom has prefcribed from time immemorial. I'he vifitor difpatches his fervant before with a piece of red paper, on whicii are written his own name, and a great many marks of rcfpe£t to the perfon he vifits, according to the rank he maintains. The meflagc being deli- vered, the vifitor enters the houfe, where, if the hoft beof fuperiorquality, he is generally received with much ftate ; but if otherwife, when they come into view, they run towards each oiiier, anJ make a low bow. Very few words are interchange I by the parties during the whole vifit, and fuch compliments ?. pals are entirely in the eflablifhed form. Should it happen that they meet without doors, they make a bait at every gate, where the ceremonies begin afrefh, and mutual bows are renewed to decline the honour of precedency. On this occafion they only ufe two ways of fpeaking: thefe are, tfin, " pray be pleafed to the younger brothers before the elder, the fervants be- enter," and ponkan, " it muft be fo," Each re- fore their matters, &c. touching the ground with their • peats his word four or five limes, when the ftrangcr, heads, in token of the higheft rcfpeft. The fame ce- I fufFering himfelf to be perfuadcd, goes on to the next remony is performed by the women among themfelves. i door, where the ceremony commences anew. Previous to this fccne, the mafters of the families pro- , When they arrive in the room where the interview ftrate themfelves before the piiSures of their anccftors, I is to be held, if the company confifts of feveral pcr- touchiiig theground likewife thrcetimes with their heads. ' fons, they fland in a row, and every one makes a low The whole family meet afterwards together, and a great i bow. Then follow the ceremonies of kneeling, and feaft is made. Such is the fupcrftition of fome, that ' retiring to different fides of the apartment to give each on this occafion, they will not admit a ftranger among | the right hand. The chairs are next faluted with them, nor even one of their nearcft relations who is not 1 compliments, to which they likewife are entitled by of t'.ie houfehold, from an apprchcnfion that the hap- j the inviolable laws of ancient ufage; when, after pineis of the family might incur the danger of being another ftated ceremony in mutu.illy declining the firft transferred. The morning of th? new year is ufhcrcd place, the company at length take their feats, which in with buii.ir.g incenfe to the idols in the pagodas, are ranged in fuch a manner that one is oppofitr to after whi(.h every houfe-keepcr rejoices at home with another. The next part of the ritual is to f:t flrcight, his family ; but on the next of the following days j with the eyes fixed on the ground, the hands flretchcd •i ■» during the fpace of a whole month, they vifit their friends, which is fufKcicntly performed by leaving it written on a piece of red paper, that they had been to wait on them. All the (hops are (hut, and the inha- bitants, in their gayeft drefs, univerfally employed in feafts, fports, and plays. In a word, the whole empire is in motion, and nothing is heard but dcmonftrations of pleafure and joy. The ufual wa) of falutation in China is to lay the hands acrofs the brcaft, and bow the head a little j but when extraordinary refpcil is to be (hewn, the hands are joined, and carried almoft to the ground, the body being at the lame, time bent forward in an attitude of on the knees, the feet even, not acrofs, a grave com- pofed behaviour, and not to be over forward to fpeak. The Chincfc think that a vifit confifts not fo much in convcrfation, as in formal compliment and ceremony; and fo much arc they governed by this opinion, that it is pofitively affirmed fome vifits are made without a word being fpokcn on either fulc. During the vifit, the tea goes round two or three times, when different cercroiiies are alfo to be ufed, at taking the difh, carrying it to the mouth, and re- turning it to the fervant. The fauic forms which preceded the feating of the company are pumStiliouIly repeated at their rifing. In a word, their vifits are equally [China. iig by a pcrfon of :ito the hoiifc, the n in that pofture, the compliment, , which is always mandarine in of- ckoned a mark of falutation, unlefs I him. The rule , to keep tht eyes le fides, till he be emitted to make lo are not on this s which arbitrary imcmorial. The th a piece of red ume, and a great : vifits, according Tage being deli- liere, if the hofl: Leived with much come into vievif, ake a low bow, he parties during rnts r. pa(s are liould it happen make a halt at egin afrefli, and e the honour of ily ufe two ways ay be plea fed to fo." Each re- len the ftranger, s on to the next anew, •re the interview of feveral pcr- ine makes a low kneeling, and :nt to give each t faluted with are entitled by when, after ining the firft feats, which is oppofilr to to f:t (Ircight, hands (Iretthcd a grave com - ward to fpeak. lot fo much ir» ind ceremony j opinion, that adc without a cli Asia.] equally ceremorious as thr t feafts, which fecm to bi; not fo niurh intended ;jr eating as the making of grimaces; and it is with good reafon that, at the court of Peking, ambaffadors are allowed forty days to prepare for an • Jience of the emperor, left they flioiild omit any of the numerous and whimfical evo- lutions neceflary to be praaifed on that (jccafion. Tlie grandees in China follow the example of the wcP.-rii Afiatics, in keeping eunuchs to attend them; who alfo are theii counfcllors, and chirf contidents. Tn. ir principal bufinefs is to take care of the women, vvhd imploy themfelvcs in painting, embroidery, a.d needle vvofk. Caltrating is here a frequent trade; and many parents, when apprchenfive of not oeing in a condui ;i to maint, : painting is not equally excellent. The flowers and landfcapes indeed are fometimes executed with elegance, and the borders are prettily variegated ; but the human figures appear to be the defigns of a wild and extravagant imagina- tion. Several circumftances contribute to keep the price of this manufacture much higher than might be expected, confidering the vaft quantity that is annu- ally made by thofe people. One reafon is, the mif- carriage which frequently happens in the baking of it: another, the increafing fcarcity of the materials, and the wood made ufe of for burning. To which may i6 H M D E R N [China. ' M \]. may be aJJcJ, as not the lead confidcrablc, that the porcclaiie ware intcmlcil for Kurope is generally formed on new models, executed often with great difficulty, which yet for the fiiialleft defcils are returned upon the hands of the manufadturcr} who not being able to fell them to the Cliinefe, becaufe not to their tafle, is obliged to put a higher price upon the por- cclanc he vends, to indemnify himfelf for what is rcfufed. Japanned works arc likcwifc a cnpltal produiSllon of the Chincfc, though in this article they are ex- celled by the inhabitants of Japan ; not however from any dcftcl of ingenuity, but on account of their exe- cuting this kind of work with too much expedition, which ought to be done with leifurc, that the varnifli may appear to advantage. The internal trade of China is fo great, on account of the facility of tranfj^orting merchar. /.c by means of the rivers and canals, that they maintain but very little commerce with any nation far diftant from their own ; though fince the conquill of the Tartars, their ports have been open to all foreigners, Japan how- ever is a kingdom whith they often frequent, and commonly fct fail for it in the month of June or July They likcwife carry on a trade with Camboyc or Siam; to which they export fuch commodities as aic proper for thofe countries, bartering them with others that there is a demand for at Japan. By this trade it is ulual to make two hundred per cent, on the voyage. They aifo carry on a great trade to Manilla, and a yet more flourifhing commerce with the ifland of Baiaria, In rcfpc(5l of the commerce maintained with China by European nations, that of England is very con- fidcrable. The profit of the Englifh in this trafKck arifcs rhicfly from the jncds imported from that em- pire, and not from what are carried thither: wc pay with filver the greater part of what we purchafe. Lead is almoil the only commodity for which our merchants get more than prime coft. Wc alfo export fcarlets, blue, black, green, and yellow broad cloths; but the remnants procured cheap in England, turn to better account than whole pieces. Of thofe the Chincfc make long purfcs, which hang by the fide fiom their girdles. The following goods turn alfo to confiderablc ac- count, if they can be conveyed afhore without paying the duties, otherwife the charge and trouble will be equal to the profit. Thefe are, ' irgc looking glafl'es, coral branches, flint ware for ( ups, ordinary horfe piftols «iih gilt barrels, old wearing apparel of fcarlct or blue cloth, fword W:'dcs about fourteen fhillings a dozen, rpuSlacles fet in horn, about eight lllillings and fixpcnce a dozen, clocks and watches of fniall price, finall brafs tweezer cafes, and any ncv/ toy not before imported. The comr\ioditics Imported from (^hina, are teas, porce'anc, quickfilver, vcrmillion, and other fine colours i china root, raw and wrought filks, copper in bars of the f\7x of flicks of fealing wax, camphire, fugar- candy, fans, pidlurcs, lacquered wares, Toy, borax, Lipis lazuli, galingal, rhub.u'', gold, with many things made of mother of pearl. To trade to China wjth luccefs, a great deal depend* on a pcrfon's knowledge of what things are likely to fell in England, and the ufuil price at which thejr are furnilhed. Previous to fuch a voyage therefore, an adventurer ought to confult with the hard -ware, china It toy merchants in London, as being tlic per- fons bed qualified to give information cji thofe fulijed>s. Particular care ought to be taken in dealing with the Chinefe to avoid impofitionj fcr of all people they are the moft addiiSlcd to cheating. Their weights and meafurcs are generally falfe, and their balances fo formed, that with dexterity in the ufc of them, the flipulated quantity of goods will be greatly diminilhfd to the pureli.\fer. They have been known to cram their poultry with flones and gravel j they have fold for a gammon of bacon, a piece of wood covered with the (kin of a hog; and where they have been truftcd in package, damaged goods, or things of no value, have been artfully fubflituted in the room of fecreted com- modities, and the deception not difcovered till the un. package in England. The only coin in China is the li or cafh, made of the fcum of copper mixed with other coarfe metal : it is a little broader than our Englifh farthing, but not fo thick, with fomc Chincfc characters on the fides, and in the center of each is a fqu ire hole, ia order to put them on a ftring for the cafe of number- ing. When convenience will not permit the ufc of this fmall coin, they have rccourfe to plates of gold or filver, which they clip with a pair of fcifl'ars, weigh- ing afterwards the quantity, and ufually pradlifing in this operation no lefs artifice and deceit than in other parts of their commerce. . CHAP. vir. Of Marriages ■— Funerals — Confucius — Religion -^ Lan^uiige— 'Sciences— Hyiiry^C/iamiler. /^NE of the inftitutions in China moft unfavourable ^"^ to domeftic happinefs, is the manner in which marriages are conduced. The bridegroom is not permitted to fee the woman he marries, till the inftsnt of fokmnization arrives. Before that time, his in- quiries concerning her pcrfon and jccompliflimcnts can only be gratified by her parents, whofo iiitereft it may be to deceive himj or he muft take the re- port of old women, who arc no Icfs mercenary than the former. The cuftom of the Chinele is to buy their wives, for whom they pay various prices, ac- cording to particular circumftanccs. When the par- ties arc agreed, the contract is made, and the flipu- latcd\ fum paid down. On the day of marriage, the bride is carried in a fumptuous chair, before which proceeds a band ot mufic, accompanied with (he par- ticular friends of her family. All the portion flie brings is her marriage garments, and houfhold fur- niture, with which ftie is prefcnted by her father. The bridegroom ftands at his door, richly attired, to receive China] GENERAL TRAVELLER. eat deal depend* gs are likely to at which they (lyagc therefore, 1 the hard -ware, s being; the |>er- atioa en thufe in dealing with )f all people they heir weights and icir balances fo ufc of them, the reatly diminiftifd iwn to cram their have fold for a covered with the been trufted in >r no value, have of fccreted com- (vered till the un» or ca(h, made of her coarfe metal : lifh farthing, but characters on the a fqu ire hole, ia c cafe of number- permit the ufc of •) plates of gold or if fciflars, weigh- ally pradtifing in ccit than in othe* vir. lus —^ Religion — * •Charaller. mod unfavourable manner in which iilegroom is not till the indznt at time, his in- jccompliflimcnts ts, whofc iiitereft luft take the re- mrrccnary than I^hinelc is to buy arinus prices, ac- Whcn the par- Ic, and the ftipu- of marriage, the lir, before which ied with the par- thc portion (he and houfhold fur- id by her father, richly attired, to receive -a receive her. He opena the fcdan in which (he is carried, and having conduced her into a chamber, introduces her to feveral women invited for that pur- pofe, who fpend there the day in fealling and merri- ment, while the hufband in another room entertains his friends and acquaintance. There are fome in- flanccs of the bridegroom having fent immediately the bride back to her relations, when uptjn opening the chiir he has been difgufled with her perfonal appear- ance; but on fuch occafions he has no claim to a re- llitution of the money which he had paid. By the laws of China, the hufband is allowed to divorce his wife only for adultery, and a few other exceptions, for \Ahich there is rarely any foundation. In fuch cafes, he is at liberty to fell her, and purchafe another; but if the tranfadtion takes place without juft reafon, both the buyer and filler are feverely punifhed, yet the hufband is not obliged to take her again, A man is permitted but one wife, but may have as many concubines as he pleafes. All the children have an equal claim to the father's eftate, though the mothers of tlie illegitimate be entirely under the au- thority of the wife. The Chinefe in general are fo jealous of their Wives, that they fuffer them not to fpcak in private even with their own brothers. Some hufbands, how- ever, there arc, who allow their fpoufes to commit adultery with perfedt freedom; and fometimes a grant of this libetty is ftipulated by the female before mar- riage, But fuch families are ufually held in abhor- rence, and their children, however deferving, can obtain no degree, or be employed in any honourable ofHce. Among the Chinefe, the being well buried is con- fidered as a matter of the higheft importance: for which reafon, every man, while living, takes care to provide his own coffin. The file of this muft be large, and the outfide of it fumptuoufly adorned, if hi^ circumftances allow, A fortunate place muft likewife be fixed upon for the interment, the choice of which is ufually referred to the fortune-teller ; but no perfon can be buried within a city. As foon as the father is dead, the fon in a furious manner tears down the curtains of the bed, and with them covers the body. He then proftrates himfelf with his hair all difhevelled, and foon after funds his frrvants to the kindred and friends, informing them by letter of what has happened. To receive them, the largeft apartment is covered with mats or white hempen cloth, that being the colour of their mourning. The body mean while being wrapt up in fine thin filk, is put into the cofHn, which is afterwards /hut ; when placing it at the upper end of the room, the fon ilands by it, clad in white hempen cloth, with two girdles of thick rope round his body, the ends hanging down to the ground. It is indifpenfible, that for feveral months he lie every night clofe by the coffin, upon no other bed than fome flraw. Luxury, particularly ilefh, mufl be totally baniflied from his table, and he is obliged to continue the appearance of mourning for the fpace of three years. The religion of the Chinefe may be diftinguinied into three principal fefls, namely, that of the literati No. 2. or learned, the profcflbrs of the doArine of Lanzu, and thirdly that of the commonalty. In rcfpedl to the firft of ihofe, the ubje£l of their inflitution appears to be of a mixed nature, comprehending both the public ffiai of the kingdom, -nd the happincfs of individuals} the latter of which they confiJer as the refult of vir- tuous anions, governed by the didlatcs of reafon, and therefore give particular application to the fcience of moral philofophy. The origin of this fe6l is a- fcribed to Confucius, of whom it may not be impro- per to deliver a general account. This celebrated perfonage is faid to have been born in one of the provinces of China, about five hundred and fifty- one years before the birth of Chrift, By his father he claimed defcent from an emperor of the race of the Chang, and his wife was likewife fprung from one of the mofl illuflrious families in the kingdom. He appears however to have enjoyed no other inheri- tance than that of an honourable anccftry. His im- provement in knowledge is faid to have been amazing- ly rapid ; and by an uncommon gravity in deport- ment, he gave prefages in his carlieft years, of the great proficiency in moral fcience to which he fhould afterwards attain. But what chiefly diflinguifhcd him was an extraordinary degree of piety. He never eat any thing, but he firfl proftrated himfelf on the ground, and paid adoration to the fupreme Lord of the univerfi;. He greatly honoured his relations, and particularly endeavoured to imitate his grandfather, who was then alive in China, and reputed a moft holy man. After ihe death of this venerable progeni- tor, Confucius applied himfelf to Tecm-fe, an emi- nent dodlor of his time, under whofc direiSion he made great progrefs in the Audy of antiquity, whicil he confidered as the fource from which all genuine knowledge was to be derived. At the age of nineteen Confucius married, and had by his wife a fon, named Pe-yu, He divorced her however, after a cohabitation of four years, that he might devote himfelf more entirely to the propagation of his philofophy over the empire, which he meditated to reform from the corruption of manners in which ic was at that time involved. He began by enforcing the great virtues of temperance and juflice: he re- commended the contempt of riches and outward pompj he endeavoured to infpire magnanimity and greatnefs of foul, and to reclaim his countrymen, by every ar- gument, from voluptuoufnefs to a life of reafon and fobriety. His extenfive knowledge and great wifdotn foon rendered him univerfally celebrated; and he was no lefs beloved for his extraordinary virtues, than admired for the endowments of his underftandlng. Kings weri? governed by his counfels, and the people reverenced him as a faint. Several high offices in the magiflracy were repeatedly offered to him, which he fometimes accepted with the view of being ferviceable to the ftate; but he never failed to refign them, as foon as he perceived that the exercifc of his authority could be productive of no public advantage. It appears however, that during a very (hort fpace in which he adminiftered the affairs of the kingdom, a great re- formation was effcftcd. He correded many frauds E and in H M R N [A«IA. h 1' 'f f and abufes in the mercantile tranfaflions of life : he reduced weights and meafures to a determinate ftand- ard : he inculraied fidelity and candour among men, and exhorted women to chaftity and a fimplicity of manners. But the feverity of the precepts which he taught, not proving acceptable to the temper of a diflblute prince, he quitted his employment at court, and retired a voluntary exile into the neighbouring provinces, each of which was then a feparate king- dom. He continued, however, to propagate the principles of his philofophy wherever hp went; for which purpofe he likewife fent a great number of his difciplcs into the various parts of China, Thofe he divided into four clafTcs. The fiift were to improve the mlnJ by meJitalion, and purify the heart by vir- tuous precepts: the focond were to cultivate the arts of reafoning juflly, and of compofing elegant and pcrAiafive difcourfes: the Hudy of the third was to be employed on the rules of good government j and the fourth clafs was to deliver to the people the Jodlrines of morality, in a concifc and poliflicd ftylc. Confucius is faid to have compofcJ many valuable books, yet extant, on the fubjefls of moral fcience, in which, however, he modeftly acknowledged, that he had only colle£lcd into a body the fcattered frag- ments of preceding legiflators and philofophers. Ac- cording to the moft authentic account, be died at the age of feventy-tbree, of a lethargy, occafioned by I'orrow for the obftru£lions he had experienced in his endeavours to reform the manners, and promote the happinefs of mankind. His death was univcrfally lamented in all the provinces of China, the inhabitants of which have ever fince honoured him as a faint, and eftubliflied fuch a veneration for his memory, as never before was attained by a philofopher in any other age or nation. His fepulchre is vifitcd at certain times by all the learned men in the empire, with almoft cnthufiailic idolatry; a thoufand edilice^, with infcrip- tions that mark the higheft refpc(5l, have been erected in honour of his name; and his pullerity, to this day, enjoy the peculiar diftindlion of being the only perfons in China, except princes of the blood, who are entitled to the rank of nobility, in virtue of hcrcditnry right. With rcfpe£l to the mod cflential doctrine of re- ligion, the immortality of the foul, it appears that the followers of Confucius do not entertain uniform fcntimcnts. The greater part of them regard the precepts of morality no farther than as they contribute to the happinefs of the prefent life; while others, though not regarding immortality as a natural property of the foul, confider it, however, as the deflined re- ward, and juft retribution of virtue. This feiSk ufe neither temples, priefts, idols, facrifices, nor any lacred riles. The fecond fedl, which has at prefent but few followers, 13 denominated of Lanzu, from a philo- fopher of that name, contemporary with Confucius, and who, they pretend, was carried in his mother's womb during the term of eighty years. They believe that the fovereign God Is corporeal, and governs other deities with authority Timilar to that of it king over his fubjefls. They are much addicted to the fame ridiculous notions refpe£lJng chcmiltry, which were the foible of thofe who cultivated that fpecirs of natural knowledge in Europe, about two centuries ago; believing that by means of a certain liquid, men may be rendered immortal. The priefts of thi* fe£l particularly employ themfelvcs in rxorcifm, ar- rogating likewife an iincontroulable dominion over the weather, with the additional power of averting both private and public calamities. The third fe^ a that of the Donz'.'s, who have idols and deities reprcfentcd in flrange and monflrous figures; and among the reft, two famous through all the Ead, namely Amida and Schiaca. It is the principle of this fcf , contrary to that of the learned, to take no c^re of the public, and only be mindful of their own intereft. In fome rcfpcdls they bear a rc- fcmblance to the Epicureans of old; maintaining that the excellence of morality confirts in avoiding vehe- ment defires, and that the chief attention of a wife man ought to be, to pafs his life without fulicitude. They allow, however, the foul's immortality, and that it is rewarded or puniflicd after death, according as it defervcs; but they condemn matiimony, and live in common. From thcfe three feils have originated many others of inferior note; and an incredible multitude of idols proceeds from the crciSling flatucs to men, who, for fome memorable actions, deferved the gratitude of their country; .it alfo from their opinion, that there are particular fpirils in the woods, hills, rivers, and fcas, to whom they confccrate reprefcntations of the fame kind, in teftimony of their pious attachment. The Chriftian religion feemed once on the point of receiving the impeiial fdiiiLiion in China, through the indefatigable zeal of fome miflionaries. The profjicd of fuch an event, however, is now totally vanifhcd, though Chrifiianity be tulerutcd in the empire, and the number of thofe who profefs it is computed at two hundred thoufand. The Chinefe are in nothing more remarkable, than for the fingular nature of their language and alphabet, which arc entirely different from thofe ufed in every other nation. In the language of this country, there is not an alphabet of a few charai5)crs, of which to compofe words, but the latter have each a particular fymbol, by which ro other word is reprefented. Another peculiarity in this tongue is, that all the words arc monofyllables, and are not originally above three hundred and twenty; yet, confidered with their ac- cents, they are fufficient to exprefs all the ideas of the people. For this purpofe, in writing, no left than fifty-four thoufand four hundred and nine cha- raflers are ufed, A few years ago Mr, Turbeville Necdham, a fellow of the Roynl Society, endeavoured to evince that there was a great connection between the hierogly- phical writing of the ancient Egyptians, and the characters which are in ufe at this day among the Chinefe. What fuggcfted this hypothefis, was the infcription on the bu(t of Turin, of which a cad was fent to England by th« late Mr, Montague, and pre- lj'1 ^:l h [Asia. i(]di£led to the :hcmiftry, which ited thitt fjieciri >ut two centuries I certain liquid, le priefts of thl» in cxorcifm, ar- ominion over iho of averting both )riz'.'s, who have ;c and monflrous tnous through all liaca. It is the It of the learned, ily b: mindful of i they bear a re- maintaining that n avoiding vchc- ention of a wife ithout folicitude. nimortality, and death, according matiimony, and Jted many others fiultitude of idols I men, who, for the gratitude of nion, that there ills, rivers, and :ntations of the s attachment. on the point of na, through the The profjieiS: totally vanifhcd, he empire, and is computed at markabic, than ;e and alphabet, ufcd in every country, there of which to ach a particular is reprefented. lat all the words illy above three with their ac- II the ideas of iting, no lefs and nine cha- Iham, a fellow o tvince that the hierogly- lans, and the lay among the hefis, was the which a call lontague, and pre- China.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. i^ prefcnted by his majefty to the Britilh Mufeum. In vations on nature; not to fiy that the fantaftic and order to determine the point, application was fince made by the Royal Society to the Jcfuits at Peking, in China, to confult " - literati of that country, for their opinion on the fubjcft. The refult of the in- quiry was, that the characSlcrs were not Chinefe; having no conneif>ed fenff, nor proper rcfcmblancc to the different forms of writing in that country. The Chinefe, we arc informed, have two kinds of language, or perhaps they may be reckoned more properly different dialefls of the fame. The one, which varies in the fcvoral provinces, is fpoken by the common people, and the other by mandarines and perfons of rank. To thcfc fome add a third lan- guage, namely, that which is ufed in books com- pofed in an elevated ftyle. The ftyle ufed by the Chinefe in writing, is faid to be concife, allego- rical, and fometimes obfcure, to fuch as are not per- fcflly (killed in the charaftcrs. Their cxprelTions arc animated, and intcrfperfed with bold comparifons and metaphors. From the reprefentation here given of the language of China, it might feem to be extremely well adapted to poetry in particular, efpecially the lyric, which is the only kind ufed in the country. Of this fpecies of compofition they arc faid to have two forts, one in meafurc, and the other without any regularity, in refpcift of the number of fyllables. The latter con- fifts entirely in the antithefis oroppofition of thoughts; fo that if the firft thought be concerning the fpring, the fccond fliall be upon the autumn, or if the one relates to fire, the other muft of confequence to water. It will readily be acknowledged, that fonnets written upon fuch a plan, afford too ftrong indica- tions of childifh conceit, to be confidered as genuine produiElions of poetical genius; and we may fafcly conclude, as has been hinted on a former occafion, that the Chinefe have very little pretenfion either to the ivy or the bay. If the people of China were juftly diftinguifhed for any kind of literary compofition, hiftory feems the province to which they have the moft plaufible claim, at leaft in rcfpoil to the accuracy with which they are faid to regiftcr the public events in their own country. According to the moft candid opinion, however, which we can form on this fubjedt, their moft ap- proved chronicles hardly deferve the name of hiftory. They appear to be only jejune and incoherent mate- rials, feledled without judgment, and arranged with- out regularity; which neither awake the fancy, nor improve the underftanding, and of which even the authenticity is greatly liable to fufpicion. The knowledge of the Chinefe in medical fubjedls has been reprefented as extremely profound, owing perhaps to the air of myftery with which it is particu- larly diftinguifhed. But though this circumftance may impofe upon fuch as are unacquainted with the art, it affords to others the ftrongeft prefumption, that under the apparent mafk of learning, ignorance is aflually concealed. The multiplicity of frivolous difiinAions relative to the pulfe alone, it may be afHrmcd, werq never drawn from faithful obfer- unintelligible jargon, in which they arc defcribed, charaiflerize in the livelicft colours the chimerical pro- ficiency and fliill of a people, to whom even the elen-.cnts of genuine fcicncc are almoft utterly un- known. It is not however meant to infinuate, that the Chinefe have never derived from experience any of the moft fimple obfervations, refpedling the ule of particular remedies in the endemic difcafes of their country. Some degree of empirical knowledge in medicine is naturilly acquired by every people, but ''uch attainment can never be conddercd as any evi- dence, that the principles of the art are really culti» vated amongft them. The Chinefe are faid to have ftudied aftronomy with particular fucccfs, and have made many hundred obfervations on cclipfes, comets, ^-"1 conjun£lions, It is however an unqueftionable faiS), that they were obliged to the Romifti miflionaries for ri forming ths kalendar: and though they likewife pretended to aftro- I<^gy9 >c appeared that their boafted accomplifhment in that vifionary art, amounted to no more than what a common juggler may perfjrm. With fome rude literature, of the moral kind, it muft be acknow- ledged that they are not unacquainted : they have a great number of univerfitics, and reckon fwtj hundred and feventy-two libraries, well ftorcJ with books. As China was totally unknown to the inhabitants of Europe before the fifteenth century, we can pro- cure no other hifturical evidence, refpcifling their ancient Hate, than what is to be obtained from their own records; the firft part of which is palpably fabulous, as themfelves acknowledge; the originals of thofe of later date having been loft or dcftroyed. They pretend however, that their firft monarch Fohi, who is fuppofcd to have lived about the time of the flood, was fent down from heaven to inftrufl and govern mankind ; and to him they afcribe the invention of cloathing, charaflers, and mufic. Having reigned a hundred and fifteen years, he was fucceeded by Chint-ong, who taught them agriculture and phyfic; after whom are mentioned a Jong feries of fucceflive kings, who likewife proved each the author of fome ufcful invention or improvement, Almoft the only authenticated tranfaflion, we find in their hiftory, is the conqueft of China by the Tartars, about the year 1644; '"'"'^^ which time no event of importance occurs in their country. From the account which has been delivered, of the manners and cuftoms of the Chijiefe, the ftriking lineaments of their national charafli. may readily be traced. Trained up from infancy to the external command of their pafltons, and incumbered through life with an intolerable load of oppreflive ceremonies, they contrail towards each other a latent antipathy, the confequence of which is univerfal diflimulation, which breaks forth in a propenfity to every fpecies of artifice and fraud. Let it be acknowledged at the fame time, that while, on account of the great extent of their empire, they live under fuch various climates, they are neither infe£led with the rude barbarity of the one extreme, nor the efFeminate luxury of the other. OF 20 THE M O R N [Asia. OF THE TARTAREAN NATIONS. in: ii li CHAP. I. 0/ Chinejian Taltary, OUItiing the extcnfive empire which has hitherlo cinplo)cd our attention, we next enter Tartary, the ancient Scythi.i, a country that occupies ihc wholr northern part of the Afiatic continent, and is divided into feveral dirtinift nations. The firft of thofe wc ihall mention is the Niuche, Manchew, orChiiieflun ^'artary, ul'ually diOinguiflied into the provinces ot Keching Tartary on the Eafl, and Tigurran and Solon Tartary on the Weft, It is fituatc between 105 and 135 degrees cad longitude, and between 41 and 55 degrees north latitude; being bounded on the fuuth by China, on the weft and north by Kuflian Tattary, and on the caft by the Pacific Ocean. This country, which is naturally mountainous and barren, has bc-n much deferted Ance the conqueft ot China, the feat of government being removed thither, and all the Tartars of diftinflion having followed the court. The inliabitants arc generally of a robuft con- flitution, and fpend moft of their time in hunting 01 iiftiing, which they praiSlifc rather as a necefTary em- ployment than diverfion, Their game is chiefly wild deer, and thofe they hunt in a peculiar manner Their method is to furround a large ut.f\ of country, di'iving the animals into a narrow compafs, when they fhoot or take them with nets, which are purpofely made very ftrong. The air of this country is exceflively cold in the winter, occafioned by the wind blowing over the large tradl of frozen territory, which extends towards the north. The Tartars eat all kinds of meat, except hogs-, but arc particularly fond of the flefh of horfes, which the country produces in great numbers, and which arc likewife preferred by the Chinefe for their cavalry, as being much fuperior to their own breed. The common drink of the inhabitants is water, or mare's milk. They have very little wheat or ricej oats being almoft the only grain which they cultivate; and of this they make their bread, as well as a fpecies of fermented liquor. Notwithftanding their connection with China fjr upwards of a century, they feem hardly yet to have formed the fmallcft idea of civili • cation; continuing ftill to lead an itinerant paftoral life, without iiiduftry, arts, or commerce. Some town:, however, or rather mud-built villages, they have amonr; them ; the principal of which is Kirinula, fituate in 4.^. degrees of north latitude, on the flope a mountain. This was anciently the feat of their kings; and here arc yet to be feen the tombs of the royal family, who governed the country before the conqueft of China, The brutal ignorance and depravity of thefe Tartars is in nothing more confpicuous, than for the adora- tion which they pay to the Great Lama, or prieft of priefls, a man, whom they ridiculoufly confider as a true and living Cod. It is the opinion of the people, that this pcrfonage is endowed with immortality; and, in order to fupport the deception, a young man of a limilar appearance, and fccretly procured, is eon>Unt)y in training by the inferior priefts, with a view of fuc- cecding to the divine honour, on the dcmife of the prefent iacumb.'nt; an event which is known only to thofe who ofttLiate about his perfon This wretched idol, however, is fcldum permitted to end his d.iys Dy a natural death : for as foon as he verges towards the decline of youth, he is uluaily dil'patchcd b> the priefthood, in order to preferve in the votaries a belief of his unfading age and eternal duration. Nor is the fhoitnefs of his life accompanied with any circumftance, which can compcnfaic for his alinuft total exilufiiin from every human enjoyment; being <>ne continued fccne of folitudr, imprifonment, and mifery, THIBET. The next nation of Tartiirs is that of Thibet. This country is bounded on the north by the land of the Cilmucs, on the caft by China, on the fouih-WLft by India, and on the weft by Ufber Tartiry. It is fituate in a fine climate, between 70 and 40 degrees of north latitude ; but is extremely mountainous, and on that account obftruitts the paffage between India and China by land. Tne people are governed by a cham or chan, the denomination of a fovereign prince in that part of the world; but whether his power be abfolute or limited, we are not clearly informed, f'hofe of the inhabitants who lie next China ufualiy profefs the common religion of that countiy; while I'uch as border upon Ufbcc Tartary are generally Mahometans. USBEC TARTARY. Ufljcc or Mogul Tartary is bounded by the country of the Calmucs on the north, by Thibet on the eaft, by India on the fouth, and on the weft by Perfia and the Cafpian fea. It is a fine fruitful country, lying between 35 and 45 degree' of north latitude, and carries on a flourifhing trade both with the eaftern and weftern parts of Afia, by means of the two great rivers Oxus and Sihun. The capital of this country formerly was Samarcand, fituate in 66 degrees of eaft longitude, and 40 degrees of north latitude, the birth-place of Avicenna the phyfician, and once the refidence of the great Tamerlane; but the chief town at prefent is Bochera, lying on the river Oxus, about i fixty miles fouth-weft of the ancient metropolis, I The people litre, as in the other nations of Tartary, j are divided into a great many hords or tribes, but ; fubjcft to one monarch, their grand Cham ; and they have acquired, by means of their cxtenlive com- merce, a confiderable degree of civilization. The atchievemcnts of the Uft>ec Tartars, previous to Tamerlane, are veiled in great obfcurity, but under the conduit of that ceLb'-ated leader, the nation attained a degree of military renown, that is hardly to be furpafled in the hiftory of any other people. This great perlunage was the^fon of Cham, the Tartary.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. tl the chief of ill the Mogul tribes, and vai born about the middle of the fourteentli century He niariicd the daughter of his uncle, anothjr cham of the Moguls, to whofe dominions he afterwards fuccceded in virtue of his alliancr. The firft aflion by which he diftinguilhed hiinfelf, was repiilfing the Ruflians, who had invaded his country | when, after a total defeat, he obliged them to fubmit to fuch terms as he thought fit to impofe, He treated with the lilce fuccefi an invafion of the Chinefc} but not content with repulfing them, he purfucd their army within the limits of their own country; dcmolifhcd patt of the great wall which they had ere£led for its defence ; •nd making himfcif mailer of the capital city of Peking, reduced the emperor to the neccfllty of fuing for peace, at the expence of a great y>.arly tribute. The (ami of his actions having reached the weftern parts of Afia, embafladors were thence difpatchcd to him, imploring his protciElion againft the furious Bajazct, emperor of the Turks, who was at that time the dread and fcourge of all the crntiguous nations. Tamerlane, lillcniog to their propofals, fet out on the expedition in a fliort time, accompanied by a numerous army of Tartars, and a great body of Ruffian auxiliaries. It is computed by fome writers, that his force amounted to near a million of men. He firft diredled his route through the countries north of the Cafpian fca, and then bending fouth- ward, palled mount Caucafus, continuing his march through Circaflia, Georgia, and the territories fituate between the Cafpian and Euxine feas. The order and regularity maintained among the troops, during the whole of this march, deferves to be mentioned. If a foldier took but an apple, or bowl of milk, without paying for it, he was put to death : fo firiA a regard was paid by their leader, that nothing ihould be taken by violence in the countries through which he pafied. To preclude the neceffity of this refource, provifions for the army were carried by fea, befides fuch as were voluntarily furnifhcd by the people through whofe dominions they marched. Having arrived at Sebaftta, in Armenia, he fum- moned the city to furrender; but the garrifon not complying, and alfo returning an infolent anfwer, he immediately invefted the place, delaying howsver any attack for the fpace of a week. At the end of that time, the inhabitants, who had confidercd their fitua- tion as impregnable, were llruck with amazement, at feeing the walls and towers, which had been under- mined by the enemy, fall down on a fudden, and themfelves reduced to the neceffity of furrendering at difcretion. According to the Turkiih accounts, Tamerlane laufed the foldiers of the garrifon to be bound hand and foot, and thrown into pits that were dug for the purpofe, where they were buried alive. So barbarous an a£l, however, feems not to be con- fident with the general charafler of this prince, though refentment perhaps induced him to tranfgrcfs, «n this occafion, the bounds of moderation and hu- manity. On the approach of Tamerlane, Bajazet advanced towards him with an army equally numerous, and, it No. jt. is faid, fuperior in horfe. The battle between them was fought at mount Stella, where Bnjaxet and his fun Mul'a were made prifoners. At (ird the conqueror treated his royal captives with great lenity; till being provoked by the infolent language of the father, lie is faid to have put him in an iron cage, and cxpofcd him to tht ridicule of the foldiers; not exempting even the wives of the unfortunate tyrant from viola- tion, and other marks of the molt humiliating abufe. Since which time, for the fake of avoiding fuch ig- nominious accidents, it has been the cullom of the Turkilh emperors not to marry. In this wretched captivity Bajazet lingered two years, when, as fome relate, he put an end to his miferable life by beating out his brains againll the bars of the cage. The greater part of the Lefs Afia fubmittcd to Tamerlane on this vii5lory, among which was Prufa, the capital of the Turkilh dominions; whither, while he re> mained at that place, the Chridian emperor of Con- ftantinoplc reforted, to congratulate him on the fuc- cefs of his arms, Tamerlane afterwards made a vifit to the emperor at Condantinople, and added fcveral provinces of Afia to his dominions; reftoring likcwife to the little Mahometan princes, the territories of which Bajazct had deprived them. He next marched to attack the dominions of the fultan of Egypt, who was then poffefled of Syria and Paleftine, and had fent ftrong reinforcements to fiajazet's army. The firft city which he befieged was Damafcus, where meeting with an obftinate refiftance, he put moft of the garrifon to the fword. Thirty cities of Syria opened to him their gates, in confequcnce of the general terror excited by this tranfadlion; and arriving at Jcrufalem, where the inhabitants had juft before expelled the Egyptian garrifon, he vifited all the holy places frequented by the pilgrims, and made confider- able prcfents to the church of the fepulchre. Pro- ceeding afterwards to Egypt, he made himfelf matter of Damietta, a ftrong city at the mouth of the Nilet and advancing to Grand Cairo, laid fiege to the capital, in which was the fultan, with a garrifon, at is faid, of a hundred thoufand men. After a long de- fence, the fultan retired to Alexandria, whence he fled to the defarts of Lybia, while the conqueror took pof- feflion of the city. During his refidence at this place, above twenty princes from the coaft of Barbary, and other parts of Africa, came and -nade their fubmiilion to him, at the fame time giving him hoftages at pledges of their inviolable fidelity. Leaving garrifon* in all the chief towns, he returned towards his own dominions, by the way of Mefopotamia and Perfia, which had been reduced to obedience by his generals, while he was in Egypt. Upon the retreat of Tamerlane, Mahomet's Tons reaflembled an army, and recovered many places that had fubmitted to the arms of the conqueror; of which receiving advice, he prepared to return into Turky, with the refolution of extirpating the whole Ottoman family; but death foon put a period to his vi<5loriei, in the month of January, 1402. This prince was unqueftionably one of the greateft generals of modern timet i If T II MODERN i f [Asia. r' timrii and, excepting • few excefliei, into which the heat of coni|iiel^, and perlonal prnvocatloii, betrayed hitn, he wai no Ict'i conrnicuaui lor the humanity of hii temper, than cither hi< vnlour or fucccfs. Though educated , upon their fufl appearance, endeavour to keep them off, by making as much fnioak and as great nuifc as polliblei but in fpite ot all their art, thofe deflrui^ike infcdls, after flying as long as they are able, fometimes fall in their gardens, on the tops oi houlcs, and even into the fires. Their bodies, compared with the fmallncfs of their wings, are very large. Their fize is generally from two to two and a half inches Ion,;, anj about three quarters of an inch in diameter. The commerce of Aihacan is very confiderable, though much diminifhed by the troubles in I'afia, with the frequent revolts of the Tartars. Not many years ago the city tradcj to Khieva and Cokhara, In Ufbec Tart.iry, but at prefcnt its traiHc is confined to the emprefs's dominions and Perfia. The foreign trade of the Ruflians at this plice confilh in red leather, linens, woollen cloths, and Europ :an manu- faiftures, which they export to Pcifia, chitrty on account of the Armenians. In return,' they import feveral manufatSlurcs of Peifia, particularly thofe of Cafan, as filk faflies intermixed with gold, for the ufe of the Polanders, wrought filks and fluffs mixed with cotton; rice, cotton, a fmall quantity of drugs, and efpecially raw filk. For feveral miles round this city, where the foil admits of cultivation, there are fcttlements of an indullrious people, of the race of the Crim Tartars, who are tributary to the Ruflians. In the fummer they improve their land, the chief products of which are manna, oats, mulk- melons, and water-melons; but they reckon that their principal treafure confifti in their wives and children, wi'h their fheep, horfes, and cattle. When any of their daughters become marriageable, they cover her tent with white linen, and put a painted cloth on the top, which, with a painted waggon, conftitutes the whole of her dowry. Thofe men who defign to marry obferve this Agnal, and the girl is ufually given to him who offers the father the moft valuable prefent. In religion thofe people are Mahometans, and are remarkably nice in their burial-places. They dig their graves very deep, and after lining them with bricks dried in the fun, and white-wafhing them in the infide, they build a cover over them. They alfo raife thick walls of mud round each tomb, on the top of whi^h . , i* [AsfA. y tnrant o( I.irg4 [yy hoil'i's, uiheri I fuRicicia hrlghC irt ot the g.irdciia, >u( ot° every tree lie neighbouring in rumintr titer* water (nil wilJ djacenC to Adra- cli is, that from iiing ut' Uclobcr, Is, which fly in crn the air, and Whenever they green. In order ner», upon their p them off, by nuifc as puOiblei cDrudlive iiirci::!^, fometimci fall in I, and even into I'ith the rmalincfs r fize IS generally luiij, anJ abuuC cry confidcrable, iiubles in I'afia, tan. Not many and Cokhara, in raiEc is conlincd a. The foreign ! conlills in red t!utop:an manii- rfia, iliiLlly on irn,' they import ulaily thofc of gold, for the ml HiifFii mix' of « circul ir form, covered with a hair-cloth. The fire hearth is placed in the midJIe, over which is »n opening to let out the fmoak. Thit they cover clofe in the night, and the tent ii then as warm as a ftove. The floor ii fircul with in;it» or carpets, with a fofa round it, • little raifcd, after the manner of the Turks. Their tents are kept very neat, and the furniture confifts of cabinets, cupboards, trunks, and kitchen utcnfils. The people arc generally reputtd very hofpitabic, but the women extremely lewd. GENERAL TRAVELLER. «3 HAP. 0/ Circajw, III. CIRCASSIA is fituate between 45 and 50 degrees of north latitude, and between 40 and 50 of eaft longitude. It is bounded by RufTia on the north 1 by Aftracan and tlic Cafpian fea on the eaft i by Georgia and Dogillan on the fouth \ and by the river Don, the Palus Mcotis, and the Black Sea, on the weft. This country has long been celebrated for the extra- ordinary beauty of its women ; and here it was that the praflice of inoculating for the fmall-pox firft began. The chief town is Terki, fituate on the Cafpian Sea, in 43 degrees 40 minutes north latitude, and 52 degrees of eaft longitude. It is furrounded by k wall, and has ufually a numerous garrifon. The government of Circaflla is a kind of republic, but the people generally put themfelves under the proteiSion of one or other of the neighbouring powers, namely, Perfia, Turkey, or KuHia. The face of the country is plcafantly diverfificd with mountains, valleys, woods, lakes, and rivers; and though not much cultivated is far from being unfruitful. In fummer, the inhabi- tants quit the towns, and encamp in the fields like the neighbouring Tartars ; occafionally fliifting their ilation along with their flocks and herds, Bcfides gaine, in which the country greatly abounds, the Circalliins cat beef and mutton, but that which they prefer to all others, is the fle(h of a young horfe. Their bread confjfts of thin cakes of barley meal, baked upon the hearth,' which they always cat new; and their ufual drink is water or mare's milk, from the latter of which they diftill a fpirit, as moft of the Tartar nations. They allot no fixed hours for the rcfrcfhments of the table or fleep. which they indulge irregularly, as inclination or convenience iliiSlatcs, When the men ma''e excuifions into an enemy's country, they will pafs fcveral days and nights fucccflivdy without fleeping; but, at their return, devote as much time to repcfe as the fpace in which they had before with-held from that gratification. When they eat, they fit crofs-legged on the floor, the (kin of fome animal ferving them inftead of a carpet. In removing from one part of the country to another, the women and children arc carried in waggons, which are a kind of travelling houfes, and drawn by oxen or camels, they never ufing horfts for draught. Their breed of the latter, however, l« reckoned exceeding good, and they are accuftomcd to fwim almoft any river on h'>rfcback. The women and children fmoak tobacco as well as the men 1 and this is the moft acceptable commodity, which • traveller can carry with him into the Tartar countries. There ire here no public inns, which indeed are un- neceflary, for fo great ii the hofpitaliiy of the people, that they will contend with each other who (hall entertain any ftranger that happens to come among them. The principal branch of their tra(fic is their own children, efpecially their daii^hteu, wl»,.m they fell for the ufe of the feraglioi in Turky and Perfia, where they frequently marry to great advantage, and make the fortune of their families. The merchantt who come from Conftaniinople to purchafe thufe girls, are generally Jews, who, as well as the mothers, arc faid to be extremely careful of prelcrving the chaftiiy of the young women, knowing the value that it fet by the Turks upon the marks of virginity. The greater part of the Circafllans are Chriftians, of the (ireek church; but there arc alfo both Mahometani and Pagani amongll them. II A P. Of S'lbtria. IV. SIBERIA is bounded on the north by the Frozen Ocean; on the eaft, by China and the Pacific Ocean; on the fouth, by various nations of the I'artars and the Cafpian Sea; and on the wed, by European Ruflia. It is fituate between 40 and 7a degrees of north latitude, ,and between 60 and 130 degrees of ea(t longitude; being upwards of two thoufand miles in length, and fifteen hundred in breadth. This country comprehends feveral inferior tribes of the Tartars, fuch as the Barabinfk: I'artars, the Calmucs, the Bratftii, and the SamoicJs. The northern part of this immenfe territory is a barren uninhabited country, covered with fnow during eight or nine m.mtbs in the year; but the fouthern pro- vinces are more fruitful, and in fummer extremely hot. In general, however, the inhabitants lead the fame vagrant life with the other Tartars, fubfifting chiefly by hunting and filhing, or the produce of their (locks and herds. There are not in the whole country above fix or feven towns of any note, and very little of the land is cultivated, except near I'oboKki, the capital. This town is fituate at a fmall diftance from the con** fluence of the rivers Tobol and Irtis, in 63 degrees of eaft longitude, and 57 and a half of north latitude, about a thoufand miles eaft from Peter(burgh. It is a large and populous place, defended by a wall, the fee of an archbiftiop, and hither the Ru(rians generally fend their convi<£is into exile. In ancient times, this country was inhabited by the race of Huns, who, under their leader Attila, ravaged Italy as far as Rome; and from fome fepulchral monuments and ruins yet remaining, it is fuppofed to have been formerly better peopled than at prefent, efpecially towards the fouth. It can hardly be faid to pofTefs any trade or manu- fa£iuer. T H MODERN faAurf, fun Knd ihe (kiai of niMKni Wing tlmoft I lh« only prixliica which ii afTorila. In thii articU, Iht piim-ipMt irnlic of ilie people of bibtfiit il by Atttgti, ovtr ihc UkM ■ntl t'rostn country, to China In the wiiiivr. Aiitmpiti havt btin tiudc to prnetrtit into tiM I't4 of Jip^n »nil China, by the rivtri which fall into ih« Finacn Ocean ( but hiihtrio without much fuccefa. Some rich minea of filver and copper trt faid tu be dilcoyrreJ in Ihe mounlaina uf Siberia, which they have begun to work, liiiK'iul (if brcaJ, of which Siberia ii entirely defli- lute, the inlubitanti make ufe of dry li(h, with which ihcy even ficd their dogi, that nre kept for drawing ihcir flcdgci, In cold weather, when other provender hill, il il alfo given to the cow< i by which the milk acquire! a difagreeable laHe, They have iilberli of a very Ijrge fiae, and the Chind'e mcrchantt have taught them to drink tea, which they confider ai exceeding goud againO .'he hypochondria, indigeftion, and all difurJert uf the lunga. I'hcir Aedget are drawn by thirty or forty large dogi) and ill ihofe they go a- hunting, wrapped up in fkini. They will flay out fix or fcvcn weeka to- gether, lying whole nights in the open fieldi, when the frolk is very fevcre. On thcfc occafioni, however, they make (trong firci to keep themfelvei warm, and broil their fifli. Their dogs are exceeding good at llarting the marten, which is to be had no where clfe, and is the chief commodity of the country. The tendered part of this animal is his nofc ( for which reafon, and that the (kin may not be damaged, it is here they commonly bit him, which they have learned to do very dexteroufljr. The people who inhabit the northern parts of Siberia are rrporicj to eat their prifoners of war, on which 'iccount they have acquired the nameof Samoieds or Tafambeidans, which fignify cannibals or men- caters. They live in round tents, covered with mats or flng-lkins, with a hole at the top to let out the fmoke from their fires, about which, being made in the middle of the tent, they lie flat on the ground. In fummer they fix their refidenceon the bank of forae river, where they fubftft entirely by (ifhing, and often cat their prey raw. Nor do they fcruple feeding like- wife on young puppies, of which they are extremely fond. I'hey are much addi£)ed to magic, the know- ledge of which is accou^ited amongft them very honourable. In the fouth of Siberia there is a foreft five hundred miles in length, in which is a prodigious quantity of red cherries, but of a fouriOi tafte. The trees on which they grow arc not above two or three feet high i their dwarfifh fise being owing to the frequent conflagration of the furrounding grafs, which, when kindled in any part by travellers, it is difficult to b'XCinguiih, on account of its length and drynefs. The riches cf thofe people confifVs in herds of ftags and elks, which are larger than elfewhere, and draw fledges eighty miles a day with cafe: they are likewife fo tame, that they will fland ftill to be harnefled, r [AllA. Il is ufual for parents to fell their f«m4le children at fix or fcven ytari old ; iiur ii there wanting a number ol merchants ready to purcha/e ihem ai th4t age, for the fake uf receiving (hem in the Date o( virginity. When the men go a-liunting ihey lock up their wivvi, and are U.ii lu make ulo uf a ma> chanical device for preventing their iiiKJtlity. The whole country ul Siberia is fubjcA to th« RulBan empire, and the Caarina monopolisei all the trade, particularly that to China, whither caravana go every year with furs, and in return bring gold dul>, iiUs, and other rich mercbandite of that country. In the chief towns of Siberia the Greek chorvh i« ellubliflicd I but the moft grncr^l religion of the country it Paganifm. They arc faid to believe in the fupreme Ciod, but worfliip the fun, moon, and ftars, with fcviral kinds of beafli and birds. They have alio fome rudely carved imagca in human Ihapc, Thf-re is no particular order of pricfti among them, nor any dated days aOigned fur divine wotOiip) but the heads of families ufu-itly perform the f.icerdotal office, and facrifice to iheir idnlsj the offering being afterwards publicly eaten by the people, who ling on the occafion the hymns and fonjs of the country, which, as may readily be fuppofud, are extrcmelf barbarous. They do not burn, bis: bury their dead, in the cloathi which they wore when alive; hanging their arms and inftrumcnts of hutb.inJry and trade upon fome neighbouring tree. With refpedl to the perf(>ns of the people of Siberia, thofe of the north arc very dificrent from the fouthern tribes i the latter being generally more handfome, but the former (hort in flature, with flat faces, little eyes, a copper complexion, and hardly any beards. They wear their hair at full length, and are cloathed i with furs from head to foot. Though a rude and ignorant people, they are extremely inofl>:nrive, and reputed particularly ingenious in contriving methoda to catch their game, which they fometimes even pur- fue on foi', in their fnow flioes, with amasing velocity. r C H A P. V. 0/ the Ijlands en iht Con/I of Tariary, Quitting for a little time the continent of Afia, we proceed to give an account of the principal idands contiguous to the coafts of thofe countries which have already been defcribed; and fhall begi» with fuch as lie on the eaft of Siberia, in the Tea of Anadyr, denominated by the latcft voyagers the Northern Archipelago, This cluftcr of iflands was firfl difcovered in a voyage performed under the patronage of the late empreft of RufTia, between the beginning of the year 1764, and the end of 1767. On this expedition the navigators pafTed the fea of Ochotfkoi; went round the fouthern cape of Kamtfchatka into the Pacific ocean; (leered along the eaftern coaft, keeping north- ward j and at lalt came to an anchor in the harbour [AllA. tit hm*\t cMiittn (her* warning • chai't thtm tt ihit :>n in ih« iUtt oi luniin^ ihty lock lake ulo of t ai«> intidrlity, i* fubjca Id the lonopoliaei all th« whiihcr cjravanf return bring gulil chiinJi/e of that e Greek charch ia ' religion of the J (o believe in the moon, and ft«rs, birdi. They have in human (hipe. iefti among them, ine worfliipi but rrn the /.icerdotal the ottering being pic, who fuig on • of the country, d, are cxtrcnieljr ' bury their dead, fn alive i hanging !bandry and trade people of Siberia, from the foulhern more handfome, 1 flat faces, little irdly any bearda. and are cloathed ough a rude and inofFenflve, and intriving methoda letimei even pur« , with amasing " Tartary. titinent of Afia, of the principal thofe countries .1 and (hall begia , a, in the fea of ft voyagerj the diFcovered in a »ge of the late ling of the year s expedition the oi; went round nto the Pacific keeping north- r in the harbour Of \Hi Japan.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. *5 Peter Paul, and wintered in the oftrog, or pallifadoed village belonging to it, Thus far they proceeded the iirit year ; and continiiin;; their voyage, they gradu- ally difccvered a great number of iflands of different fizej, which became more frequent between the 56th and 6;th degrees of north latitude. To mention the extent of fomc of them, and thcit dilhmce from each other: the illand of Afak is about 150 werfis [about two thirds of an Englifti mi/,'] in circum- ference; the ifland of Kanaha, diftant from the former about twenty werfts, is nearly two hundred werfts in circumference i Tfchepchina, lying forty werfts from the fecond, is about eighty werfts in circumference; Tahalan, which lies ten werfts from the laft men- tioned, • ifi'rcs upwards of forty wcrds round j Atcha, diftant (orty werfts from the former, is faid to be about three hund ed werfts in circumference; and the extent of Amlai. which is fituate five werfts more remote, is lori.:"< hat greater than that of the preceding. The inhabitants of thofe fix iilands live in green huts, which they call jurts, and never ufe any fire in them, even in winter. But if the weather \>e un- commonly cold, they kindle a heap of the hay of ftrong fea-grai's, in the open air, and let the warijH^ penetrate beneath their undergarment. Both fcxes wear the fame, kind of cloaths, which arc ufually made of the Ikins of fca-fowls, but fometimes of that of the beaver. Their common food is raw fifti, of which if they be at any time deprived, on account of contrary winds, they have recourfe to fea-kail, and oyftcrs. The men ilcep with their wives in their huts, in a cellar. dug in the ground, which they flrew with grafs; but have no other covering than the cloaths which they wear in the day-time. They appear to be entirely void of religion, and have not the leaft notion of a future ftate. Among the many iflands difcovcred by the fame voyagers in thofe remote feas, two others are alfo confiderablej one of which is nsmed Kodjak, and the other, Umanak. The inhabitants, efpeciajly of ihft former, appeared to be extremely numerous, and hetiayed a hoftile difpofuion when the Ruflians landed on their La.-.ft. Their common weapons are bows and arrows, lances and knives made of the reindeer's bones, and hatchets of a hard black ftone. Of their manners, cuftoms, and hift^iy, nothing as yet has been learned; but the inhabitants, like thofe of the iflands before mentioned, are to the laft degree rude and uncivilized. CHAP. VI. . ' .. . Tht IJlands of Japan, ■" ^ I "HE principal Iflands comprehended under the ■*• title of Japonefe arc ufually reckoned three, namely, Niphon or Japan Proper, Sacock, and Tonfa. It has indeed been doubted by fome geographers, whether Niphon be not immediately conneiled with the Afiatic continent, but the moft general opinion is in favour of its being furroundcd by the fca. The iflands of Japan are fituate between 30 and 40 degrees of north latitude, and between 130 and 144. degt:e6 of eaft longitude. No. 3. Niphon, or Japan Proper, by far the largeft, is fix liundred miles long, and up^vards of a hundred broad. Jeddo, which is the metropolis of it, and likcwife the capital of the whole empire, is fiunte in a bay of the fea, in the north-caft part of the ifland, and reckoned one of the moft beautiful cities in that part of the world. In the middle of it ftands the imperial palace, which, including the gardens, occupies a fquare of five miles in circumference, and is faid tu be extremely magni- ficent in the ftllc of that country, I'here are in the ifland two other cities of great note; one of which, named Mcaco, is fituate on a lake about three hundred mile* fouth-weft of Jeddo; and the other, called- Saccai, in the fouth of the iftand. The ifland of Sacock is parted by a very narrow- channel from Japan, lying fou'h of it: it is about five hundred miles in circumference, and the capital city- i» Bongo. The third, or that of Tonfa, ii divided from the two former by fimilar channels : its extent is aboui four hundred miles in circumference, wid the caMtal. city of its own name. The ]flftn(l» of Japan are under the government of ap.ince, to whom European voyagers have given the title of emperor, and who is faid to be the fuperior of fifty va/Tal kings in different parts of his dominions. The. half of thofe vaffals attend the lord paramount in their turns, as well as the eldeft fons of the prin*. cipal inhabitants; and to. prevent confpiracies, we arc informed, that it is the policy of the court always to keep their fubjeiSls employed in fome public work.' A (landing army is conftantly maintained, of a hundred thoufand men ^ which, in time of war, is fometimes increafed to four hundred thoufand : but it is probable that fuch an emergency muft very feldom happen, on account of their great diftance from any other nation than China, with which they are generally at peace. The revenues of the emperor have been rcprefented as fo extremely great by the Portuf uefe, that the fum exceeds all belief; but the country i.- generally efteemed one of the richeft in AHa, efpecially in gold. The perfon* of the Japonefe refembic thofe of China, who live under the fame parallel, and their habits are likewlfe the fame; but they wear no covering on the head, wh' *< is half fliaved; fcreening themfelvcs from the fun ciitier with a fan, which they conftantly carry, or with umbrellas held over them by their flavcs. Every gentleman, when he goes abroad, wears a dao-ger in his fafli, and a great broad fword on his thigh. The houfes in Japan, as for the moft part in China, confift onlv of a ground ftory. The apartments are divided by Ikreens ; and the floors paved, and covered with mats; the doors and door-cafes are varniflied; the ciciing painted and gilded; and in every houfe is an arched ftone vault, where they keep their moft: valuable effefts, to fecure them from fire. They have no glafs windows, but inftead of them ufe Aiding fliutters. Neither have they chairs or tables like the Chinefe, but fit crofs-legged on mats or carpets, on which they lie at night. The rooms are hung with pidlures or painted paper, and furniflied with cabinets, ft(reenS| broad fwords, and other arms. • ••«? G The T II E MODERN The better fort of families eat chiefly venifon, fifli, snd wild fowl of their own talcing. Water and tea are their ufual liquors; and fome indulge themfelves in ftrong beer, made of wheat and mixed with fpirits. Others, however, of certain religious ic£ts, cat no meat, nor ufe any ilrung drink, but live entirely upon rice, roots, herbs, and fruit. ' The diverfions in the towns are play: and mafqueradcs; the fubjeds of the former, as in mod of the eaflern nations, being taken from the hiftory of fomc hero or perfonage of their country. The Japonefc have not an uniformity in religion amongd them, any more than their neighbours on the continent. In general, however, they believe in a Supreme Being and the immortality of the foulj fome k£t% likcwife placing faith in the doArine of tranfmigration. They worfhip the fun, moon, and ftars, befjdes the images of uimo'is men ; with fcveral others, partly in human fhape, and partly in that of various animals. Here nunneries and convents are alfo faid to be known, in which they perform the fevereft penances. It is reported that they pra£life auricular confeffion as well as the Roman Catholics; during which ceremony they are feated on the top of a precipice, whence the bonze or prieft, if fufpicious of ihe perfon's fincerity, tumbles down ths finner to recri'ft the reward of his guilt. On a mountain near Meaco, ftands a magni- ficent temple with an arched roof, in which is a coloflal idol fedent, whofe chair is feventy feet high; and the head of the image is faid to be large enough to contain the bodies of fifteen men. The afcent to the temple is decorated on each fide with fifty pillars, on which, in the night-time, are hung lighted Ian- thorns, affording a very agreeable profpeift. There are in Mcaco fixty other temples, and above three thoufand images richly gilt and adorned. Near Jeddo, on the road fide, is erefled an image of copper, twenty -two feet high, reprefenting the god Dabis, fitting crofs- legged, with extended arms. In a temple at Tenchcda the bonzes affirm, that one of their gods appears to them in a human fhape. At the new moon he is provided with a young virgin, whom, they relate, he embraces, and fometimes im- pregnates; but as all the lights are extinguifhed during the tranfaftion, it is difficult to attain any certainty with refpcft to the perfon of the lover. The girl however afterwards is held in the highcft veneration, and generally pretends to be endowed with the gift of prophecy. Polygamy and concubinage are both permitted in Japan j luit t! e confcnt of the betrothing parties is feldoni af-ccil here, any more than in China. It is ufual for cliiMren to be difpofed of in marriage by their parents at a very early age, the young perfons ratifying the treaty as foon as they come to years of maturity. On this occafion they are led to the temple, where a a bonze places them before an image of fome of their gods, putting in their hands a lighted torch, which they hold while he repeats the words of the con- trail. Oxen or other animals, according to the quality and circumdanccs of the married pa'r, arc afterwards [Asia. facrificed to the idol ; and the ceremony is concluded by a grand proceflion to the bridegroom's houl'c, where the guefls are entertained for fi:vcral days. The cuflom of the wife having no fortune prevail* in Japan as in China; and after marriage fhe is en- tirely in the power of her hufband, who may even punifh her with death for a mifdemcanour, cfpccially conjugal infidelity. It is not uncommon for the wo- men here to procure abortion; and if they be poor, or bring too many daughters, the mothers ivill llrangle them with their own hands; but the boys ire always provided for at the expence of the fovereign. Proflitutes arc tolerated, and no mark of infamy it fixed upon procurers in their life-time ; but they are treated as criminals after death, and their bodies pro- hibited from funeral ntcs. The Japonefc do not inter their dead as the people of China, but burn the corpfe, and afterwards put the afiies into an urn. The family and friends of the deceafed attend the body to the funeral pile, with lighted torches in their hands ; and the elded fun or neareft of kin fets fire to the pile, into which are thrown fwect wood and aromatic gums, to perfume the air; a practice which renJers the funerals of people of condition vafily ex- pcnfive. By the laws of Japan, theft, lying, and gaming^ are ufually punifhed with death ; and in cafes of trea- fon, murder, and embezzling the royal revenue, all the relations are confidercd as partaking of the guilt, and punifhed equally as the principal, except the women, who are reduced to perpetual flavery. The vaflal princes or governors are feldom put to death, but banifhed to a didant ifland, and forced to woric at hard labour, as common felons. The punifhment of convi^As in Japan is extremely fevere and barbarous. Thofe unhappy perfuns are either crucified with their heads downwards, torn in pieces with horles, or burnt alive. If any fhould fly from judice, an order is publifhed, enjoining that whoever meets with the odender, fliall inftantly kill him. If the perfon condemned be a foldier, he may choofe whether he (hall die by his own bands, or thofe of the executioner. The Japonefc arc reputed to be fair dealers, and an ingenious people, but we are not informed that they difcover any knowledge in the liberal arts. They are however excellent mechanics, as appears from their cabinets, fkrecns, pagods, and other manufa£lures of the country. At prefent they trade with no foreign nation, except China and the Dutch; the latter having obtained this privilege, cither upon the merit of renouncing Chridianity, or pretending to difcover a plot of the Portuguefe againd their date. The traffic confids chiefly in gold dud, the articles above fpecified, and in tea, of which thofe iflands produce a great quantity. The natives of this country make annually a grand proceffion to the tomb of their anceftors. It com« mences at mid-night, when all the houfcs in the towns are illuminated; and after fpending fome hours at the tombs in eating, drinking, and fedivity, the people prefent themfelves in the mornioc before the templei ■I i -J [Asia. iiuny is concluded Ti's houfc, wbere lays, fortune prevails riage fhe is cn- who may eveo innour, cliiccially nmon for tlic wo- if they be poor, thcrs urili llrangle : boys ire always b^ereigi), jatk of infamy ii e; biit they are their bodies pro- >ncfe do not inter 1, but burn the es into an urn. :eafed attend the 1 torches in their )f kin fets fire to fwcct wood and, a praflice which idition vaflly ex- ng, and gaming, in cafes of trea- ty al revenue, all Ling of the guilt, ipal, except the lal flavery. The )m put to death, forced to worl( lan is extremely ppy perfons are nwatJs, torn in If any (hould fly enjoining that all indantly kill foldier, he may own bands, or dealers, and an ormed that they irts. They are icars front their manufadlures of with no foreign tch; the latter upon the merit ling to difcover ir flatc. The e articles above Hands produce a Ladrone Islands.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. tf of their idols, ami the houfes of perfons of diflindlion; beating upon their drums and brazen vefllls, with other no;fy and jarring inftrumcnis, which are not however unaccompanied with tolerable good voices. Among the J.-'ponefc the night is the ufual fcafon both for fealling and divcrfions; and they deep away the middle of the day, as is the ruftom in moft hot countries. They take off their fhocs when they enter cither the temples, or the houfes of the great, and they approach their princes and magidratcs upon their knees Incredible inftances are mentioned by fome travellers, of the flaves of this country voluntarily killing themfelvcs at the requeft of their lord, for the entertainment of him and his company} a farage fpeftacle, if re-.i, and exceeding in horror that of the devoted gladiators in ancient Rome. It is alfo related, that the flaves kill themfelves on the death of their mailer, with the view of attending him in another (late. The Japonefe iflands were utterly unknown in Europe for upwards of ''orty years after America was difcovered by Columbus j when Antonio de Mota, a Portuguefe commander, in a voyage towards China, was driven hither by a ftorm, in the year 1542. The Portuguefe began foon after to trade with the people of chat country, and continued to monopolize the commerce for more than fixty years, till fome Englifh and Dutch velTels likewife failed to thofe parts. The merchants of Portugal, however, not redrifling their views entirely to the objects of traffic, took occafion to introduce their miflionaries, and made great numbers of profelytes to the Romifli re- ligion, until the year 1630; when the Japonefe government fufpefting that the Portuguefe had formed a confpiracy againft the (late, malTacred or baniflicd all the Chriftians, and determined thenceforth never to admit iiitb their country any people of that religion, except the Dutch. The exemption of the latter from this prohibition, afforded juft ground to imagine that the apprehenfions of the Japonefe had been fomented, if not entirely excited, by their means. It is pro- bable that their purpofe was effeiled by rcprefenting the fupremacy of the pope, which was inculcated by the miffionaries, as not only derogatory to the dignity of the emperor, but even fubverfwe of his authority. It has been affirmed, that to infinuations of this nature, the Dutch added the impiety of difclaiming the name of Chridians, trampling upon the crofs, and exprcffing the ucmoft deteftation of the Chriftian religion, in order the better to fecure the confidence of thofe iflanders. Be this as it may, the Dutch are the only European nation that carries on at prefent any trade with Japan; though, from the extreme vigilance with which they are watched in that country, it is evident that the opinion entertained of them by the natives is far from being favourable, VVhen any Dutch vclfcl arrives on the coaft, the Japonefe immediately take off her rudder, fails, and guns, which arc kept on fhore till her departure. Not a man is permitted to come on ftiore, till an exprefs is fcnt to court and returned, and then the crew are muilered before the Japonefe commiflary ; after which they are reftri^ed to the idand of Difnia, where the inhabitants are not allowed the ufe of fire and candle in the night-time, and prohibited from vifiting the city of Bongo or Nagafaque for eight months in the year. So great is the jealoufy entertained by the Japonefe of the Dutch, owing probably to the ex- ceflVs which have been committed in fome of the Indian illands, by the fubje£ls of that republic. 7'he commodities which the Hollanders import to Japan are chiefly cinnamon, nutmegs, mace, and cloves, which renders the trade with that country more profitable to them than it could be to any other nation, whofefettle- ments produce none of thofe fpiceries, CHAP. VII. 0/ the Ladront Iflands, 'TXIRECTING our courfe fouthward from Japan, *-^ and paffing the iflands Lekcyo and Formofa, with others of fmall extent, adjacent to the coaft of China, and fubjeiSl to that empire, we arrive at the Ladrone or Marian iflands. They are fituate in the Pacific Ocean, between 12 and 28 degrees of north latitude, and in 140 degrees of eaft longitude. Their names are, Guam, Sarpanta, Tinian, Sefpara, An- atan, Sarignan, Guagam, Alamaguan, Pagon, the burning mountain of Griga, Magna, Patas, Difco* nocida, and Malabrigo. Guam, which is the largeft, is about twelve leagues long, and four broad, lying north and fouth. In the middle of the ifland the ground is high, but flopes gradually to the coaft. It produces rice, pine-apples, oranges, and moft of the tropical fruits. Among thofe is the iime, a fort of crab-lemon with a thin rind, containing h very acid juice, and much ufed in punch in the Weft Indies. The bread-fruit grows on a tree refembling that which bears our largell apples. When fully grown, it is equal in fize to an ordinary foot-ball. It has a dry thick rind, but the infidf; it foft, white, and crummy, like bread, with a fweet pleafant tafte, if eaten in lefs than twenty- four hours after it is plucked } for then it becomes dry and fuz7V. The natives, after baking it in an o;en, fcrape oiF the outfide. This fruit is in feafon eight months in the year, during which time it is the only bread ufed in the ifland. The cocoa, which alfo grows here, is a very hardy tree, thriving almoft in tvery foil, and rifing to a very great height. The nut grows at the end of the branches, which are fome inches in diameter. It is generally as large as a man's head, and has a rind two inches thick indofing the fhell, which is black, thick, and hard, being manufactured into cups, fpoons, and other utenftls, which are much efteem-;d, particularly in Europe, Within the (hell is a kernel, which, before it is ripe, taftes fweet, and refemblcs thick cream; 'jut as it advances in maturity, it be- comes of a firm confiftence, and is then not eafy of digeftion. This kernel is hollow, and contains a liquor which is very wholfome, fweet, and refrefhing. The outfide rind or huflc is full of fmall firings or thicads, whiclh being- beaten, become foft, and are fpun 28 THE MODERN [A31A. fpun into a yarn of which are made cable ropes, and fumetimcs a coarfe fort of fail-cloth. In the South Seas, the Spaniards ufe t: is tow inftead of cakum tu c^ullc their (hips, and it is faid to poUefs the quality of not rotting. A liquor is alfo procured from the cocoa- tree, called toddy, which has the appearance of whey, and is publicly fold, morning and evening, in almoft' all the towns of the Eafl Indies. The branch which is opened for this purpofe produces no fruit, but the 'ifcharge from it is faid not to afFe£t the vejjctation of that which grows on the others. This liquor is vaftly agreeable, but turns four in twenty- four hours, A fort of arrack is diftilled from it, which makes ex- cellent punch, but mud be put into a brandy calk, to give it fpirit, not being fuificiently flrong in itfelf. It is known by the name of Gua arrack, bccaufe chiefly ufed at that place, and is entirely different from the arrack dlAilled from rice and fugar, which is the moft common, as well as the flrongeft kind. The inhabitants of Guam are of a good ftature, ftrong bodied, and well fhaped, with long black hair, fm,ill eyes, high nofes, thick lips, and a copper eomple.\i(in. They have ftcrn countenances, but are courteous and affable. The ifland is villted with periodical, though not violent rains from June to O£lober. The country however is reputed healthful, cfpecially in the dry ftafon j but fometimis the inha- bitants are affliiSted with a kind of Irprofy. The people of Guam are particularly ingenious in cnn(lru£ting their (loops, which are the admiration of all voyagers. The keel is of one piece, made in the form of a canoe, twenty-eight feet in length, built Iharp at both ends. One fule of the veffel is flat, the other rounding with a pretty large belly, being four or live feet broad, with a maft in the n.iddle. Their method of failing is to turn the flat fide to the wind; nnd having a head at each end, they can fail with either of them furemoft, and have never any oc- cafion to tack. It has been computed, that thofc veffcls will fail twenty-four knots an hour: it is ccr« tain, however, that they go with prodigious velocity. Guam, with the other Ladrone iflands, was firft difcovered by Ferdinand Magellan, a Portuguefe, who was employed by the emperor Charles the fifth, to find a way to the Eaft Indies by the weft. The ifland remains under Spanifli jurifdiflion, and in it arc feveral Indian villages, where ptiefts refide, who inflruff the inhabitants In the Chriftian religion; that of the country being the Chinefe paganifm, of which nation thofe iflanders are defcended. The Spaniards have two caftlcs on the fhore, viz. St. Angclo, a trifling fortrcfs, where the Manila (hip ufually anchors, and the caftic of St. Lewis, diftant from the former about four leagues. Bcfides thofe forts, there is a battery of five cannon on an eminence near the fliorc. The r.iliitar) force ufually kept in the ifland is three com- panies of foldiers, confifting of fifty men each; and the number of inhabitants is computed to be about four thoufand. Sixty years ago, Guam, Tinian, and Sarpania, were fuppofed to contain in all above fifty thoufanJ inhabitants, and the reft were peopled in proportion; but by a peftilential difeafe which broke out about that period, the greater part of the in- habitants was deftroyed. Thofe in the neighbouiing ifland who furvived this calamity, were removed to Guam, whence they never were permitted to return to their former fcttlcmcnts, which have fince continued defolate. Many of the inhabitants arc ftlU diflatisfied with this reftriftion; and fo ipprchenfive arc the Spaniards of a revolt, that the natives are not fuffcred to carry arms. The ifland of Tinian or Bonavifta, which lies noith of Guam, is twelve miles in length, and fix in breadth. According to the accouni: delivered of it by the writer of Anfon s Voyage, the foil is dry and fandy, and the air healthful. The land rifes in gentle flopes, from the fhorc to the midi'le of the i-'and, interrupted by vallies of an eafy afcent, which are beautifully diverfified by woods and lawns inter- mixed. The turf of the lawns was clean and uni- fortn, compofed of fine trefoil, blended with a variety of flowers; and the woods confifted of tall fprcading trees, delightful in their appearance, or rich in de- licious fruits, free from bufties and underwood, and affording the moft elegant profpcfls. The cattle on the ifland were computed to amount to ten thoufand, all perfefllj' white, except their ears; befidfi ivhich, there were hogs and poultry without number. The fruits produced here arc cocoa nuts, guavoes, limes, fweet and bitter oranges, and cabbages growing at the tops of trees. There is no rivulet or running ftream in it, but excellent well-water, which lies near the furfacc. With all thofe advantages, Tinian is not conftantly inhabited, and only ferves as a plantation to fupply the Spaniards in Guam with provifions. This defcription of Tinian has been fufpedled to border on romance, and the fuppofiiion may feein to derive fome degree of authority from the very different account of the fubjeil delivered in Mr. Byron's Journal. We are there informed, that the ifland was almoft a thicket of buflies and briars, intermixed with fwamps and marfhes : that the water was brackiih and full of worms ; the rains violent, and almoft in- ceflant ; the heats fo great as to threaten fuffucation ; which was likcwife almoft the confequcnce, on opening the mouth to fpcak, on account of the prodigious fwarms of flies with which the air abounded. It is remarkable, that Mr, Byron's defcription of Tinian was drawn in the fame feafon and month of the year, in which the ifland had been vifited by the former voyagers: but it ought to be remembered, that more than twenty years had elapfed between the departure of the Centurion, and the a'rival of the Dolphin at this ifland J and it is well known how much, in that fpace, particularly in a warm climate, the falubrity and face of a country may be changed, by a total neglefl of cultivation. The habit of the men in the Ladrone iflands is a linen frock and drawers, with a fmall piece of the fame cloth licd about their heads. The women like- wife wear a fimilar frock, diftinguiftied only by large fleeves, which come down to their hands; with the addition M. [AoiA. Philippines.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 29 eafe which broke part ol' the in> the ncighbouiing were removed to mittfd to return 'c fiiicc continued re IHII diflatisfied chenfive arc the s are not fuft'cred which lies north jth, and fix in delivered of it : foil is dry and c land rifes in miiliUe of the fy afcent, which and lawns inter- s clean and uni- :d with a variety of tall fprcading or rich i;i dc- undcrwood, and juted to amount xecpt their ears; poultry without are cocoa nutj, :s, and cabbages is no rivulet or :ll-water, which lofe advantages, lid only fcrves as in Guam with :en fufpedled to an may feetn to le very difFerent Mr. Byron's that the ifland ars, intermixed ter was brackifli and almoft in- ten fufiocation ; ice, on opening the prodigious bounded. It is tion of Tinian ith of the year, by the former red, that more the departure :he Dolphin at much, in that , the falubrity ed, by a total one iflands is a 1 piece of the le women like- 1 only by large indsi with the addition addition of a piece of cloth round their waifts. Both fexes go bare-foot} and the women tie up their hair in a roll at the hinder part of the head, while the men, like the Chincfe, have their heads fliaved, all except a lock that is left in the middle of the crown. Perfons of figure are cloathed in filk or fine callico, and the women of this rank wear bracelets and rings on their arms and fingers. CHAP. VIIT. Of the Philippine IJlandi, "tlTESTWARD of the former, in the Pacific ' » Ocean, arc fituate the Philippine Iflands, between 5 and lu degrees of north latitude, and between 114 and 127 degrees of eaft longitude. There are fome hundreds of them, and feveral very large. The chief and the moft northerly is Manila or Lu- conia, lying between 13 and 19 degrees of north lati- tude ; about four hundred miles long, and a hundred miles broad in moft places. The capital of this ifland, and of all the reft, is the city of Manila, fituate on a .bay in the fouth-wefl part of the ifland, and upwards of two miles in circumference, fur- rounded by a wall and other works. The harbour, of which a caftle defends the entrance, is very com- modious, but of difficult accefs, on account of the rocks and fands which lie before it. The principal buildings of the city are the cathedral, which is large, with the parifh churches and convents; to which may be .'-.'d the college of the Jefuits, where fludents were, ti.. iately, inflrudted in humanity, philofophy, and divinity. The houfes are ornamented with galleries in the Chinefe flile, and the flreets are fpacious, but greatly damaged by earthquakes, which have fpoiled their uniformity. The city is fuppofed to contain about three thoufand inhabitants; but the fuburbs, which are extenflve, a much fuperior number. Of the Chinefe alone, there are faid to be here not lefs than twenty thoufand perfons, in the difFerent employments of fervants, manufafturers, and brokers ; for the Spaniards and Indians applying themfelves to no buiinefs, the labour and trade of the place depend entirely on thofe induflrious people, over whom, how- ever, their tyrannical and impolitic maflcrs exercife great feverity. The adjacent country is full of fine plant tary Indians, and fourteen pariflies belonging to the fathers of St, Auguftine. One of the greatcll iflands next to Manila, is Samar, one hundred and thirty leagues in convoafs, and inhabited by about five hundred families. It is generally mountainous and cragcy, but the plains are fruitful. Another confider- able ifland is Leyte, thirty leagues in compafs, and well peopled on the eaft fide, by rcafon of the fruit- ful plains, which arc faid to yield from a hundred to two hundred fold. The inhabitants were under the im- mediate care of the Jefuits, before the extin\51ion of that order. Another under the patronage of the fame body is Bohol, about forty leagues in compafs. But the largcft of all the Philippine iflands, except Manila, is Min- danao, which is likewife the mofl foutherly. It is about two hundred miles in length, and a hundred and fifty in breadth. It is inhabited by people of different nations and religions ; but the Mahometans, who occupy the fea-coaft, arc much the nioft numerous, whofe fovc reign is ftiled the fullan of Mindanao. Thofe who pofliifs the middle of the ifland are railed Hillaloons; and another nation ftyled Sojognes, on the north-weft coaft. The air of this ifland is ifot fo hot as might be expeiSed, confidcring i*s latitude; being frequently refrcflied [Asia. Philippines.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 3< )CccJs to (lie fame uC. vliich the Manila lifli court, it is interclh ot tliat cottons from the 1 much chcapc- at res, thu filks and greatly inju cj in the trafTic drains would otherwifc r in Old Spain i (Fc<5l of rendering s mother- country, the Manila trade, 13 in that part of three leagues in d. Eight leagues rait is Ticao, an abited by Indians. n, five leagues in Mafbata, thirty mines, inhabited jtc in wax, fait, inilla is the ifland leagues in com- a and other fruLc ;ues from Manila, ifland is feventy ainoMS, and pro- preceding. Next nail ifland, five ire the Calamines, Thi next are diftant from each n hundred leagues thoufand tribu- belonging to the he grcatcll iflands dred and thirty by about five mnuntainous and nothcr confider- n cci.iipafs, and fon of the fruit- om a hundred (o crc under the iin- cxtinrtionof that f the fame body fs. Dut the largcfl Manila, is Min- lerly. It is about ndred and fifiy in diiFcrcnt nations who occupy the uf, whofe fovc- 10. Thofc who lied Hillaloons; n the north-weft fo hot as might being frequently refrcflied refrcfhed by the fM-breercf, and the periodical rains, which lay the flat country under water. The mon- foc.is or trade-winds, which prevail here, blow from the eaft, from Oflober to May, when they fliift about and fet wcflerlyi the next month regularly introducii.- rains and llorms. At firll there are not more than two or three moderate fliovvers a day; but they after- wards increafe both in duration and violence, accom- panied frequently with loud thunder and hurricanes, fo that trees arc blown up by the roots. In June and July the fun and flars are fcmetimes not feen in the courfe of a week; about Auguft the air is very i : • In all thofe iflands, it is computed that there are about two hundred and fifty thoufand Spaniards and Indians, fubjedl to the crown of Spain, thoujh fcarce the twelfth part of the inhabitants be conquered. The governor, who is flyled captain-gcncriil, has under him a number of deputies, and the fame civil and criminal jurildiflion prevails as in Old Spain. Eccle- fuiftical caufes are determined by the arclibifliop of Manila, the bifhop, and commilFaiies ; but there lies an appeal from them to the pope's delegate, who re- fides in one of the iflands. The tribunal of inquif.tion has alfo a commifl'ary here. The city of Manila is the feat of government for all the Philippine iflands, except Mindanao and Paragoa ; the governor's falary is tliirtcen thoufand three hundred pieces of eight, exclufive of great perquifites, and his authority lafts eight years. Four judges and a folicitor hold their places for life, which are alfo very profitable. At the expiration of his office, every governor is fub- je£led to a judicial trial, in which a flrift inquiry is made into his management of public afl^airs, which relates, however, more to peculation than any other part of mifconduifl, and is accordingly never puiiiflied but by a pecuniary fine. On this occafion, fixty days are allowed the iflanders, after proclamation made through the provinces, to bring in their complaints, and thirty days to profecute before the judge, who is generally the fucccfTor in the government, by fpecial commifTion from the king and his fupreme council of the Indies; when having received all informations, without deridlnc any thing, hi- fiibniif": the pro« ceedings to court. It is affirmed, that fince the conqueft of thofe iflands, only two of the governors have returned to Spain, the reft having cither died of chagrin at their trial, or of the hardlhips endured in their fubfequent paiTage home. It is apparent that with refpefl to the Philippine iflands, the court of Spain is af^uated by the •'ime pernicious principles which has mifguided her American commerce. For notwithftanding the taxes levied on the inhabitants, there is an annual deficiency of two hundred and eighty thoufand pieces of eight, to defray the expcnce of government, which is remitted every year from New Spain for that purpofe. Married men are generally taxed ten reals, others from eighteen to fixty years are rated at five isals, and the fame is likewife paid by maids, from the "je of twenty-four to fixty. The whole included, the king's revenue is not quite four hundred thoufand pieces of c'ght, while the pay of the military kept at Manila, and the enormous falaries of the civil ofEcers of the crown, amount to an excefs of near three fourths of that fum. Thofe iflands are reputed rich in pear!s, cotton, civet, and particularly gold, which is not only found in mines, but mixed with the fand of rivers. Of this commodity, it is faid, there is to the value of two hundred thoufand pieces of eight a yeai- gathered, without the h:'p of fire. The Philippine il'ands received their prefent name in the year 1543, from the general Luis Lopez de Villa Lobos, in honour to prince Philip, then heir to t'.ie Spantfh crown. On account of their remote fuuution 3« THE M D E R N [Asia. fituation, thejr have remained fince that time totally unmolefted by any foreign power i till, during the laft war between Great Britain and Spain, the city of Manila was reduced by fome fhipi of our navy, but immediately afterwards reftored to the Spanifli crown, for a flipulated ranfom, which has not hitherto been paid, and is probably now fully relinqui&ed. CHAP, IX. Of At Molneca Ifianii, with thoft of Banda, Amhoyna, and tlhtri aJjaant, PROCEEDING fouthward from the Philippine illands, we arrive at the Moluccas, which are iituate between one degree ibuth, and two degrees north latitude, and in 125 degrees of eaft longitude. The firft of them is Ternate, about twenty-four miles in circumference} in which is a burning mountain that has done great mifchief by its eruptions. Two leagues from Ternate is the ifland of Tidora, about twenty miles in compafs, enjoying a better foil, and leputed more healthy than the former. The inha- bitanti are warlike, and can put to fea twenty or thirty large veflels, wiih fix or feven thoufand men. The third of thoi'e iflands is Mutiel or Timor, lying 4ire£lly under the line. The fourth is Machien, which has a burning mountain like that in Ternate. The fifth is Bachian, about twelve leagues in cora- pafs, containing likewife a volcano. The general produce of thofe iflands is cocoa and iago, with almonds, oranges, lemons, and other tropical fruits V but their greateft riches confifted formerly in cloves, on which account they obtained the name of Spice Iflands. The tree which produces this com- aiodity refembles the bay. The cloves grow in cluf- ters at the end of the branches. They are firft white, then green, afterwards red, and when full ripe they turn brown, but when gathered and dried become almoft of a black colour. The inhabitants of the Moluccas live chiefly upon fago, made into cakes, having neither corn nor rice, and hardly any meat but goat's flefli. Their drink is water, and the milk of the cocoa'^-ot, or toddy, drawn from the body of that tree. The Portugucfe and Spanii.rds were the firft Euro- peans that found the way to thofe iflands, the former failing eaftward, and the other direfling their courfe weft. The Englifli and Dutch afterwards traded with the inhabitants, but the Dutch erecting fortrcfles here, in the beginning of the laft century, expelled every other nation; when they even eradicated the cloves, to preclude the inducement to any attack, and planted them in the adjacent ifland of Amboyna, which they fecured with ftrong fortifications. The Banda Iflands are iituate between 127 and 12S degrees of eaft longitude, and bi.'ween three and five degrees of fouth latitude. They are five in number, viz. Pooloway, Rofiiigen, Genapi, Polezron, and Lantor or Banda Proper. In extent they are gene- rally fmall, the largeft, which is EanJa, not exceed- ing fixty miles in circumference; but they are valuable on account of the nutmeg, which, it is faid, will grow ;Jl no where clfe. Pouloway is reprefented as a moft de« lightful country, the nutmeg and other fruit trcca being cut into pleafant walks through the ifland, which forms one be.!>::iful garden. It is fubjefled, however, to the great inconvenience of having no fprings or rivulets 1 on which account the inhabitant! preferve in cifterns the water that falls in the rainy feafon of the ^ear. In fc-veral of thofe iflands there are volcanos, ami in moft of them fortifications. The chief town of Banda is fituate on an inacceflible rock, the natural ftrength of which is improved by the works which the Dutch have ere£led round it. The fame tree that produces the nutmeg is alfo the parent of the mace, which enclofcs the fruit as a hufk. The Arabs were the firft who introduced thofe fpices to the weft, by importing them to Egypt and the coafts of the Levant, whence they were diftributed over Europe. On the difcovery of the Eaft Indies by the Portuguefe, about the year 1500, that nation monopolized the trade for upwards of a cen- tury, till the Dutch invaded thofe iflands in 1609. The inhabitants put themfelves under the protection of the king of England, whom they acknowledged ai their fovereign^ but the Dutch maintaining their conquefts, they ever fince enjoyed the exclufive benefit of that important acquifition. Amboyna is fituate in three degrees 40 minute* fouth latitude, and in 126 degrees of eaft longitude. This ifland, which is about feventy miles in circum- ference, is now the only country that produces cloves, fince the Dutch tranfplanted them hither from the Moluccas, for the more fecure pufieflion of that fpice. Befidet cloves, it likewife abounds in moft of the tro- pical fruits and fiflt, nor is there here any deficiency of good water, but flefli is very fcarce. This fcarcity, however, proceeds more from the policy of the Dutch, than either the intemperature of the climate, or the barrennefs of the foil. For excepting cloves, they have, in Amboyna as well as the Moluccas, induftri- oufly difcouraged the cultivation of every cfculent commodity, with the view of with- holding fubfiftcnce from thofe who might be tempted to invade them. But as a greater fccurity from any hofltle att.nck, the approaches to the ifland arc defended by a ftrong fortrefs, in which is conftantly kept a garrifon of feven or eigiit hundred men. In the beginning of the laft century, the trade of Amboyna was divided between the Englilh and Dutch, who had each their factories in the ifland; but the latter perfidiouHy at- tacking the other fettlements, in time of profound peace, rendered themfelves maftcrs of the country, after co' imitting fuch adls of horror and barbarity, as hai 'I', evei were perpetrated by any people, even in a contoft with their moft inveterate enemies. I'his dominion, however, fo infamoufly acquired, they have hitherto been allowed to retain, and at prefent monopolize the cloves, as well as that of the other valuable fpices. The iflands of Celebes or Macaflar, Gilolo, C 'm, fiouro and Bouton, though fituate near the Molucca and Banda iflands, produce none of the fine fpices; but being of confcquence on account of their prox« imity, j*OTi Spice Islands.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. li imity, they have been fubJued and fortified by the Diilrh, as a defence to their other po(li.flioiis, Celebes, or Macaflar, is fituate between ll6 and Ii4 degrees of ea(t longitude, and between two decrees nurth, anJ fix degrees fouth latitude. It is five hundred miles long, and for the moft part two liundrcd broad. The air is hot and iroill, the rainy fc.ifon lalting the grcatcft part of the ycarj but the mornings ufually are fair. During the rains, innu- merable torrents pour down fiotn the hills; but at other times, there is only one navigable river, which runs from north to fouth, and difcharges itfelf into the bay of Macaflar, near the city o( that name. Macaflar is the capital of the ifland, fituate on the fouih-wi'lt part of it, and confifts of fpacious ftreets, planted on each fide with evergreens. The boufea are generally built of wood, but. thr palaces and moCques of (lone. It formerly contained upwards of a hundred thoufand men, able to bear arms; but .fince the conqueft of the Dutch, who now monopo- lize- ilic trade, it is reckoned that there is not more than half that number of inhabitants. The republic h IS here a ftrong fort, garrifoned with feven or eight hL.M('ied men, Another port-town of the ifland is Jampadan, about fiUcen miles fouth of Macaflar, one of the bed har- bours in India. This was the firfl town which the Dutch took from the natives, and here they feixed or deflroyi:d all the Portuguefe veflels, when they were in full peace with that nation. The other towns and villages which lie in the flat country, are generally built with wood or cane, and raifed upon higi; pillars, to preferve them from the annual flood ; at which time the inhabitants have no communication but by boats. The natives are of a middle (lature, and a deep copper complexion, having for the moft part high cheek bones, flat nofes, and black teeth, though the colour of the latter is rather (iflitious than natural. Their fliining black hair they tie up in a roll, wear- ing on their heads a white cloth, or fmall turban. They anoint their bodies with oil from their infancy, and the men ufe hardly any other covering than a linen cloth wrapped about their loins. The princes and great men, however, wear a veft, tied with a fafh, in which they carry a dagger, knife, crice, and other trinkets. People of figure dye the nail of the little finger of the left-hand red, and allow it to grow to a great length. The women wear a (hift, or rather a waiftcoat, clofe to their bodies, and a pair of breeches, which reach down to the middle of the leg, made of filk or cotton, having no other >ead- drefs than a roll to tie their hair, of which fon.e curls hang on their neck. When they go abroad, they throw a loofe piece of linen or muflin over them, with a gold chain about the neck, which is their only ornament. They are an ingenious people, andfeem to be adu- ated by more refined fentiments of honour and friend- ship, than ar: ufually met with among thofc who have not attained to a confiderable degree of civili- zation. They difcovered an af'^ent love of liberty. No. 3. I by the brave rcflftance which they fo long malnttlntd againft the whole power of the Dutch, being the lalt nation in the Indian feai who were reduced to their fubje£iion : and as the men are warlike, the women are remarkably chafle. The furniture of their houfei confifts chiefly of carpets, culhions, and the couches on which they fleepi and, like moft of the Afiatici, they fit crofs- legged. They are particularly fond of a fine equi- page, and a great many fetvanti to attend them) of whom, if they have not enow of their own, they will hire or borrow, to make up the number, when they are to appear in public. Their food it chiefly rice, fifli, herbs, fruit, and roots; for of (lefti they eat but little, and their principal meal is made in the evening. What they drink is tea, coflxe, flierbet, or chocolate, and the/ have likewife palm wine, arrack, and other fpirits 1 in which they fometimes indulge themfelvei, though contrary to the precepts of their religion. They loll up peti at their meals, and eat oiF diflies mida aa, wood, filver, or copper, which are fet before '.iicm on little low lacquered tables; taking up the rice with their hands inftead of fpoons, of which there is none emongft them. They chew betel and arek, or fmoak tobacco mixed with opium moft part of the day. Young men of condition here are taught to ride, (hoot, and handle the crice aiid fcymetar; alfo to blow their little poifoned darts through a ti>be 0^ hollow cane, about fix feet long, which is called i. fampit. Their armour confifts of a light (hield mads of cane, and covered with a buflialo's hide, a fword^ dagger, and the fampit. The latter being furnithed with a dagger at the end, ferve* likewife as a fpcar^ and is ufed as fuch, after '..le mifEve weapon has been difcharged through iti the wound infliAed b/ which is faid to be irrecoverably mortal. The produce of the ifland is rice, fugar. Oranges^ the tropical fruits, and pepper pl.-int; but they chiefly cultivate the poppy, which afl\}rds opium. There are here alfo bamboos, of a great length and thick- nefs, with other kinds of cane; likewife cotton trees^ ebony, calambac, fanders, and other dying woodj, with timber proper for building houfet. No country abounds more with poifonous plants and herbs, whence is procured the liquor into which they dip their dart* and daggers. Here are moft kinds of animals, except (heep. Monkeys may be feen in great numbers, foine of which are as large as maftifTs, and frequently attack travellers. They hunt in packs, and will run down a w'ld beaft; being afra;d of nothing but ferpents, ' by which tribe they are often purfued, even to the tops of trees, and fometimes wounded. There are no elephants in the ifland, but there is a fmall breed of horfes, on which the natives ride, ufing, inflead or a faddle, a painted cloth, without ftirrups, and, for a bridle, a cord, to which is fattened a wooden bit. They alfo ride in the fame way upon oxen and buffaloes. The principal manufaAure of the couutry is cotton linen, of which the women, who are taught to fpin I and .H II E MOD E R N [Asia ami wrave, make thtir own and their huft'iiiuls cloaihs, ■jLi will as tluilc of their chiMrcii, The men make their own arms and utenfili i there being no panicular triulu, but every fainily working for themrolvcs, Ucl'ore tlic inval'ioil of the iJulch, M.ualijr h.iil a great foreign trade, fupplyinij the Muluccan and Kanda with rice mid other provifuuis, and taking; their nut- megs and tlovcs in return ; which they again exported to Indin, I'crfia, Arabia, and Li;ypt. Their commnn language is the Malayan; but the religion of the iflaiid being Mahoinetanifin, the Alcoran is written in Arabic ■, and in confc(|uence of their principles, the fame marriage rites, as well as the prailice of polygamy and concubinage, prevail here as in other Malionictan countries, which will be aftci'wards more particul.iily meniiuiied in treating of Turkey. There are no written laws in this country, except thofc contained in the Alcoran. The judges, or cadis, who arc Mahometan priclls, interpret them, and every man pleads his own caufe. In feveral cites, the p ".y aggrieved is allowed to do himt'elf judicci as in adulirry, robbery, and the murder of a relation > when the offender is taken in the faft. Before the conqueft of the Dutch, the ifland was governed by a prince, whofe authority was abfulute; and the crown defcended by collateral, not lineal fuc- ceflion. The forces of the kingdom were a wcll- difciplincd militia, never chargeable to the govern- ment, but when they were called out to aiitual fcrvicc. The firft Europeans that invaded them were the Portu- guefe, whom the natives oppofed with great vigour; but after being afllfled by the Dutch in expelling that enemy, they were at length fubdued by their auxi- liaries, who now cxercife over them an authority f.nbccomiiig the fpirit of a free republic. The ifland of Gilolo is fituatc between 3 degrees north, and 2 degrees fouth latitude, and between 125 and 128 degrees of caft longitude. The chief town if '.ochina, the name by which the ifland is fre- quently called. The climate, foil, produce, and in- habitants, differ fo little from thofc of Celebes, that they require no particular dcfcription, Ceram is almoft contiguous to the iflands of Am- boyiia and Banda, while ihofe of Houro and Bouton are fituatc between Ceram and Macaflar j in all which, as well as Gilolo, the Dutch have eredted fortifi- cations, to defend the avenues to the Spice Iflands. From the early mention made of fpices in facred writ, it is evident that the iflands which produce them were vifited by the people on the continent of Afia, at a very remote period, though they remained entirely unknown to the Europeans, till the Portii- gucfe difcovcrcd the w.iy to India by the Cape of Good Hope. This memorable event happened in the year 1498, in the reign of Don Emanuel, king of Por- tugal, under the conduft of the cnterprifing Vafco dc Gama, to whom the charge of the expedition was entruflcd. On his arrival at Calicut in India, the admiral was oppofed by the Moors or Arabians, and Egyptians, who then monopolized the trade of that coaft. Returning to Europe however, the Portuguefe e(|uipprd a (hnngrr fleet, with which ilu-y made thcinfelvcs mallets of feveral placet on the continent of India. In 15 11, Albuquirqiiv, the Portuguele general, took the cities of Goa and M.iliicca, after which he difpatthcd Antonius Anihrcuj in featch of 1 the Spice Illand.'i, This officer iirriving at the Mo- luccas, found the two kings of Ternate and Tydore engaged in a war; when motl of the adjacent ifland* being in alliance with one or other of them, and eaih party courting the fticndfhip of the I'ortuguefe, the latter were permitted to build forts in ihofe terri- tories, where they foon ellablifhcd a fettlemcnt, as they likewife did afterwards in the Banda Iflandi, and monopolized the whole trade of cloves and nut- megs. This traffic they enjoyed without interruption till the year 1520, when Magellan being employed by the Spaniards to difcover a way to India by the wed, pafTing the flraits in South America, which go by his name, arrived at the Philippines. Here Ma- gellan happening to be killed, Jdhn Scbaftiaii del Cano took upon him the command, and ellablifhed a fa£lory on the clove ifland of Tydore. Leaving behind him one of his fliips, he returned in the other to Spain, by the way of the Cape of Good Hope, with the glory of being the firft commander that ever furrounded the globe. In confequence of an agreement between the two nations, confirmed by the pope, all the difcoveries weflward were allotted to Spain, as were thofc eaftward to Portugal. The Spaniards therefore con- ftdercd themfelves as juflly entitled to a (hare of the fpice trade. Mean time the Portuguefe demolifh- ing the Spanifh faiSory upon the ifland of Tydore, and making prize of the vefTel which had been left, a quarrel enfued between the two nations. The rup- ture however was at length accommodated, on the Portuguele agreeing to lend the Spaniards, or rather Charles the fifth, 350,000 ducats to relinquifli their pretenfions, a debt which was never difcharged. The Portuguefe again enjoyed the fole trade to the Spice Iflands, till fir Francis Drake paffing the Straits of Magellan, arrived at the ifland of Ternate on the 14th of November, 1579; when the king of that country, weary of the opprc/fion of the Portuguefe, defired his protcdion, and acknowledged the queen of England as his fovereign, fending alfo to her majefljr his fignet, in confirmation of his fidelity. The ad- miral encouraged him in the hope of returning with a greater force, and having taken in a loading of cloves, fet fail, by the way of the Cape of Good Hope, for England, where he arrived on the 3d of November, 1580, being then the fccond commander that had furrounded the globe. A multiplicity of other objeifls engaging the Fnglifh court, the Indian trade was neglefled until the year 1 591, when the captains Lancafler, Kendal, and Raymond, were fcnt on a voyage thither. Captain Lancafler, in one of the fhips, arrived in the Straits of .Malacca, but loft his vefTcl on his return home, and the other two never reached India, In 1596, three other fhips were fent to China, under the command of captain Wood, with the view K Spice Islands.] C E N n R A L TRAVELLER. SI M of opening » commercial intercoiirfe with tli.it nut Ion i but the whole ctcw dicil on the voyaije, except four, who were cjll away on a fmall iflaiid near Hifpaniola, aiiJ miuJcrcJ by the inhabitants. Nnlwiihltantliiij; thou ilifjrtcr.s, however, another efTirt w.ii loon after- wirJ< made by the merchants of L'lnduii, for carry- ing into execution the projciS of eltablirtiing a trauc with the lOall Indies. For this purpofc they formed then; .cs into a company, and were incorporated by queen Elizabeth, by a charter dated the 30th of December, 1600. Thus proteded by the royal au- thority, tliey Immediately equipped four Jhips, the commiiid of which was given to the fame captain Lancaflcr above mentioned, now promoted to the rank of admiral. They fet fail from Dartmouth, April 22, 1 60 1, and arrived at Achin, in the idr.nd of Sumatra, June 5, 160J. After taking on lioard as much cin- namon, cloves, and pepper, as could be procured at that port, and having delivered the queen's letter, he proceeded to Pfiaman, on tlie Wvll coaft of Su nialra, where he took in a gria.ir lading of cloves and pepper. He ne.vt direficd his couifc to Dantam, in the ifland of Java, where he fettled a faflory ; and after dil'patchlng a vcflcl to the Molucca and Banda Idands, for the purpofo of likewifc ellablifh'ng a comm 'acked a fort belonging to them in the ifland 01 Tydotc, when the inagazi;ie of powder blowing up, and dcflroy- ing great part of the wall, the beficgcd were foiccd to furrcnder. But during this cnterprizc, the Spaniatill in the Philippines fitting nut a fleet, recovered the forti which the Dutch had taken in the Moluccas, The Dutch continuing to purfue their favourite objcfl with unremitting ardour, fent a fleet of men of war, with land forces on board, to the Banda Iflands, requiring of the orancayas, or flates of thofc iflandb-, pcrmilTion to ereff a fort on the ifland of Ncroj but this requeft being denied, the Dutch landed a body of troops, and malFacrcd great numbers of the natives, who finding it impofl'ible to defend thcmfclvcs, fub- mitted to the terms which had been demanded. The Hollanders, however, farther infifting that they (hould exclude all other nations from any (hare of their traffic, the Bandancfe, under pretence of a treaty, drew the admiral Vanhoof, with feveral of his officers, into an ambufcade, where falling upon them, they retaliated the daughter which had lately been committed by the enemy. Open war being now carried on between the natives and the Dutch, the former invited to their affiftance the Englifli, who traded thither at that time, accom- panying the invitation with a formal furrcnder of their country to James I, In confequence of this tranfaiilioii, captain Keelyng fet fail from England on board the Hedtor, and arrived at the ifland of Banda the 8th of February, 1608, With the approbation of the oran- cayas, he crcdlcd here a houfe for the ufe of the Englifh company's fadiors, and agreed upon articles of trade; as he likewifc did with the government of the ifland of Pooloway, from which he received 225 cattces of mac?, and 1307 pounds of nutmegj. The Dutch admiral, however, foon afterwards landing more men in the ifland of Banda, laid fiege to the town of Sabataca, which he took, and deftroyed feveral Bandanefe ve(rcls which he found in the harbour j commanding the Englifh captain at the fame time to quit the ifland, Keelyng nevcrthelefs (laid at B.-'ida till he had taken in his loading of fpice, whence he proceeded to Bantam, and, having there eflablidied a, faiHory, returned to England in M.ny, 1600. In the year 161 6, wc find two Englifli veflels again arriving at the Banda Iflands, under the command of captain Courthopc, when the orancayas of Poolo- way and Poolcron ratified the treaty, by which the foVC' I i ll^: ■I ii;; M II m i I- -i!!: T II E M O D F, R N [Asia. foyf rrl(»nfv of the Id.ind h»il foiiiicily l)cin furrmdirrnl f to the KukIiO) iriiwn I the like ciQiun beiii|j; tlfo made by the illanilii of Rofiiuing and Wayre, by ihcir rcr|ii'illive titM\c»),t), Suuii itf'cr ihii tranr.iiDinn, Teveral Dutch fliips •p|irnachcd the idind of Puuleron, and hoillin^j * bloody flaj^ fccmed to thrcaleii an itlack un the KngliOi v'llilr, when the crewk t>( the latter landing feme pliers of cannon, erci'tcil a battery with a view of cuiiinuiuling the road. Three other large Dutch fhipi arriving in a few dayi, the Knglifh inrnrmed thcni (if the I'clTiDn which had been l.ttely made, and demanded that I'olloway might be dtliveied up to them, The Dutch, fu far fruin pretending at that time to any prior grant of thofc iflandi, acknowlcili>eil thiy had none) atij dilcovcring the Englllh batU'rIi-s on the (liure, diirLinbled their hodilc intentions. Hut captain Dat in, who commanded the Swan, going over to the ifland of Wayre, which was nut then in the power of the Dutch, two fhipti belonging lo the latter poured in their broadfulcs upon him, and after fome refiftance made him piifuuer, in open violation of the peace which fubfilled between the two nation!. After the lul's of the Swan, captain Courthope find- ing it impradlicable to defend himfcif againd the Dutch at foa, landed his gum, and ereiSled a fort on the fhore, with the defign of maintaining hit fecurity, till he fliould be reinforced f;om England or Bantam. But his men dcfciting, carried the (hip to th« Dutch, who plundered it of every thing that waa valuable, and threw the reft over-board. The men they loaded with irons, imprifoned them in the mod horrible dun- geons, and wantonly treated them with every brutal lAarlc of indignity that could rcflc£l reproach on the Englifh name. Captain Courthope, in this fituation, difpatchcd Mr. Spurway, factor to the Ead India ctflnpnny, to Bantam, with fevrr^l of the orancayes of the Banda Iflands, to reprefent the flate of aflairs to the faflory at that place. But the) not being in a condition to afford any afliffance, Mr. Spurway Wrote to the company in Englanil, informing them of the outragea that b. d been committed, and flrongfy urging the neccOity of the intcrpofition of government, both for retrieving the honour of the nation, which had been Co flagrantly violated, and fur maintaining pofTefTion of the Spice Iflands, which mud otherwife entirely be toft. This outrage committed by the Dutch, was fuc- cceded by another in March following, when with four large fliips they attacked two Englifh vefTels, that had come within fight of the port of Pooleron; on which occafion the latter were taken, after a fmart engagement which laftcd feven hours, and many of the crew were afterwards mafTacred in cold blood, Notwithlfandi ig all thofe misfortunes, the natives continued faith'''il to the Englifh, and maintained the town of Lantcr, in oppofition to the whole force of the invaders, whom they frequently attacked with fuccefi. They were animated to this refiftance, not only by their hatred of the Dutch, but by the gallant example of captain Courthope, who in January, 1618, received an cxprif) fioin fir Thiimai Dali, enmmaiuler of 1 ftrong fleet of Knglilh ihipi, infuiming him that he was arrived at Bantam, and had defeated the Dutch fleet, which he had compelled to i|uil the cnall ot Ja»i( adding that he would be Iptedily with him at U.inda, and oblige the Hollandrn to rclinquilh their unjuftifi- able cnterpriM. In txpciHation of thofe fuccouri, •• well at others from England, a complete year haJ elapfed, when news was received, that fir I'liomat Dale was dead, and that the reli of the captains bring divided among thcmlelvei, had dil'perfed lo feveral parti of India, by which unaccountable conduilt, feven of their ftiipi had been taken by the enemy. In fpight of this mortifying dilappiiiniinent, and the fcarcity of provirioni, the bra.e Couithdpe rcrulvrd to defend his little garrifon at Pooleron tu the lait extremity, the fnriiRcations of which he repaired .ind improved in the moft advaiitagenus manner pofliblr. But unfortunately, as this gallant comman Dutch v.diN on the 16th of 0£tobcr, 1619, when, after an obtlinaie defence, receiving a fhot in the breaft, he threw liun- felf in the k*, wbeiber with the view of fwimmin;: t» the (hore, or to prevent his falling al vc into the han la of the Dutch, is unceitain, lie perilhed however un the occafion, leaving behind him a name wliicb, for heroic courage, and an invioUbiL attachment to the intereft of his country, has never been furpafTed by any of the moft celebrated commanders. In confequence of this fatal event, Mr. Hayes, with the confent both of the Englifh and Bandanefe, toole upon him the cummind of the fort of Pooleron, and two or three days after intercepted a Dutch packet, by wiiich it appeared thit a treaty of peace hail been concluded between England ^nd Holland, in relation to the fpice trade. This important information he immediately difpatched to the Dutch governor at Nero, that he might have no pretence for committing any farther adts of hoflility. The latter, however, with- out paying the fmalleft regard to this intelligence, required the Baiidancfc to acknowledge tliemfelves fubjefl to the L'nitcd States, which the natives re- fufing, the Dutch hoifted a red flag, and attacked the town of J.antor ; but they were again repulfed by the Bandanefe, who cut many of ihcm to pieces in the purfuit. In February, 1620, notwithftanding the treaty above mentioned, another Dutch fleet arrived in the Indian feas, with land forces on board, for the purpofe of making an entire conqueft of the Spice lllands. I'he orancayas refufing to furrender the town of Lantor to this armament, the admiral took the place by ftorm, and having plundered and maflacred r::ny of the natives, reduced it to afties. After wreaking his re- fentment on the Lnglifli faflors, in the moft unmanly and illiberal manner, by corporal fcverities, he caufed them to be tied hand and foot, and carried on board hi* (hips, where they were laid in irons. He then feizcd their efFeils, confifting of 23,000 weight of mace, and 120,000 weight of nutmcgc, befides their money, cloth, and other merchandize. The f P! > Ay tt'/f«m /..Mutvi / . Hayes, with ndanefe, took 'ooleron, and }iitch packet, race h;W .>'.n«'l 'A ^4mitt\4 i O /: K <» '' ' U-« '. Guffpiil'^ T^mf I I V I ' iljMll ~\r^ \ I fi -3.." ''ilHll»ii«» \Vrnluiit,, ._ ^i... /,.*««(»* ) 7 1 A-* jUm^ <>fryb<» ^ ft A. T u ^1 From llio b<'A fl Aiitho/u'fi'fj iTl k" r-A* If n r/' l*wV/- uy *tmtu/i^ \ ^e'>' '.tle-J'Mtt^~ JImiit.v ir./hnm IiMl/'VI k>r|)ij^flll MeIJ ITEK H AJTE AN S E aI ynC.lluMMf M'TimtJ!.^hmi Xim/t'// ». BanJa, with a y^ew ef eiirryfng on the tradt fn the ilipulated proportion. It Is evident, however, from the repeated outrages of the Dutch, already mentioned, that from the beginning they never entertained any refolution of preferving the treaty inviolate; and this is further confirmed by the horrible tranfadtions at Amboyna, which happened in lefs than three years after. In order to give the more fpecious colouring to the violent feizure which they meditated of the ifland of Amboyna, they made ufe of the ftale pretext of a confpiracy being formed by the Engliih and Japoncfe, to difpolTcfs them of one of their forts in this place. The plot, it was allcdged, had been confeflcd by a Japonefe and Portuguefe in the Englifh fervicc, who were moft inhumanly tortured, till they ihould anfwer in the affirmative fuch interrogatories as No. 4. "tTie whole of the tranfaalon affords the moft irre- fragable teftimony that it was founded entirely upon a pulitical fi£lion of the Hollanders, who had thcm- fehcs formed the defign of monopolizing the trade of the Spice Illands; for the accomplifliment of which they perpetrated, about the fame time, a fimilar tra- gedy at Poolcron, where they put to the torture a hundred and fixty-two of the natives, whom they likewife charged with a pretended confpiracy. It may juftly be reckoned Angular in the fortune of this com- mercial republic, that they have ever fincc been per- mitted to enjoy in peace thofc invaluable illands, which were originally obtained by fuch atrocious infringe- ments of humanity, and the laws of nations, as will ftain the Dutch annals, to the lateft ages, with in- delible infamy. K CHAP. 36 fovi to ma^ i apF bio En, foij of. the anc up at ack En. int the wh (hi| , in the i ing at wit fhO his wh ini wit geo R^ai En; dif, ' ■' c8fl " ' - --'• ' to t a ( wft of ftro of{ nat for maintaining pollciuon or me opice ifiands, which muft otherwife entirely be loft. This outrage committed by the Dutch, was fuc- cceded by another in March following, when with four large fliips they attacked tWD Englifh vcflels, that had come within fight of the port of Pooleron; on which occjifion the latter were taken, after a fmart engagement which laded feven hours, and m»-y of the crew were afterwards maffacred in cold blood. Notwithftanding all thofe misfortunes, the natives continufil faithful to the Englifti, and maintained the town of Lantcr, in oppofition to the whole force of the invaders, whom tncy frequently attacked with fuccefs. They were animated to this refiftance, not only by their hatred of the Dutch, but by the gallant vXumplu of cnptain Courthope, who in January, 1618, ! .:'; \r ■<='>:* the purfuic. In February, 1620, notwithftanding the treaty above mentioned, another Dutch fleet arrived in the Indian feas, with land forces on board, for the purpofe of making an entire conqueft of the Spice Iflandsi. I'he orancayas refufing to furrender the town of Lantor to this armament, the admiral took the place by ftorm, and having plundered and maflacred many of the natives, reduced it to aOies. After wreaking his re- fentment on the Englilh faflors, in the moft unmanly and illiberal manner, by corporal feveritics, he caufed them to be tied hand and foot, and carried on board hit (hips, where they were laid in irons. He then feized their cffefls, confiding of 23,000 weight of mace, and ijo,ooo weight of nutmeg', befides their money, cloth, and other merchandize. The r" * ] f" Spice Jblauds.] GENERAL TRAVElLfett* he treaty above in the Indian he purpofe of Iflands. I'he n of Lantor to ace by ftorm, many of the :aking his re- mofl unmanly its, he caufed ried on board IS. He then )00 Wright of befides their The Dutch next proceeded to attack Pooleron, threatening the natives with inevitable ruin, if they did not immediately furrender. They anfwered, they were fubjedls of the king of England j and as there was peace between the two nations, they hoped the Hol- landers would not now commit any a£ls of hoftility; but if the Englifli neglefled to defend them, they muft of neceflity fubmit. In confequence of this de- claration, the Dutch took pofleffion of the ifland, and caufed the natives to demolifli the fortifications, while the Englifli 'amely fuffered themfelves to be idle fpec- tators of the .lavock, from an opinion that they ought not to a£l in a hoftile manner, as peace had lately been ratified in Europe between their nation and the Dutch. Mean while the aggrelTors compelled all the other iflands to fubmit to their dominion, prohibiting like- wife the natives, under the fcvereft penalties, from felling any more fpice to the Englifh. They even re- ftrained not from facrificing to their cruelty, thofe among the orancayas or magiflrates, who had difco- vered the greatefl attachment to their rivals, caufing them to be inhumanly mafTacred in cold blood, under pretence that they were in a confpiracy againfl the rights of the republic. The treaty which had been concluded by th £ng1i(h and Dutch, was not that of a pacification, a; no a£ts of hoflility had preceded between the two nations in Europe, but a treaty of commerce between the Englifli and Dutch Eaft-India companies, mutually ratified by the fovereign power of each country, and in the framing of which, the interefls of the former were apparently relinquifhed by a weak or corrupt admi- niflration, by whom the articles had been diflated. By this treaty, it was agreed that the Englifli fhould enjoy o.ily a third fliare of the trade to the Moluccas and Danda, but yet bear half the expence in defend- ing that commerce. It was alfo (lipulated, that each party fhould remain In pofTelTion of the towns and forts which they refpeflively held at that time. The treaty was ftgned the 7th, and ratified at London on the 16th of July, i6ig. The Englifh Eafl-India company, not doubting the defign of the Dutch to peiform their part of the con- traiSt fo advantageous to the republic, proceeded to fettle faftories in the Moluccas, Amboyna, and Banda, with a view of carrying on the trade in the fiipulated proportion. It Is evident, however, from the repeated outrages of the Dutch, already mentioned, that from the beginning they never entertained any refolution of preferving the treaty inviolate; and this is farther confirmed by the horrible tranfaflions at Amboyna, which happened in lefs than three years after. In order to give the more fpecious colouring to the violent feizure which they meditated of the ifland of Amboyna, they made ufe of the flale pretext of 3 confpiracy being formed by the Englifh and Japoncri;, to difpofTefs them of one of their forts in this place. The plot, it was allcdged, had been confudcd by a Japonefe and Portuguefe in the Englifli fervicc, who were moft inhumanly tortured, till they ihould anfwer in the affirmative fuch interrogatories as No. 4. if might favour the fecret defign of thofe cruel inquifitors; Upon the injuriotis evidence of this toriflrained decla- ration, they Immediately accufed the Englifh factors of the pretended confpiracy. Some of them they im- prifoned, and others they loaded with irons, and fent on board (heir fliips; fei2.'ng at the f^me time a)l thJi Englifh merchandize, with their writings and books. Thefe acts of violence were followed by a fcene of horror unexampled in the puniihment of the mofl atro* cious offenders. Some of the fa£lors they tortured, by compelling them to fwailow wat^r, till their bodies were diflended to the utmofl pitch. Then taking the miferaUe vidtiftis down from the boards to which they hnd bc^h f^flened, and caufing them to difgorge the water, if they did not ackrtoW» ledge the imputed guilt the procelit of torture wai repeated. Others of i'he Englifli they confumed by bttrnShg; them gradually from the feet upwards, in 6rder td extort the confefiion 6l a confpiracy> which was cln]f prerended by the infernal polity of thofe favage tor* mentors. Some had the nails of the firtge'rs and toei totn ofF, and in fome they made holes in their breafls^ filling the cavities with inflammable materials, to which they afterwards put fire, Thofe who did not expire under the agonies of torture, were configtitd to the hands of the executioner. The allegation of this pretended confpiracy was equally void bf probability and truth. The Dutch had a garrifon of three hundred men in the fort, be- fides the burghers in the town, and feveral other forts And garrifons in the iflahd, while the number of the Englifli did not amount to twenty men ; nor were even thofe provided with arms or ammunition, to efFe£t fuch a deflgn as that with which they were charged. Thefe lijcewife wits not one Englifh veflTel in the harbour, whereas the Dutch had eight Ihips riding near the town : neither, when the Dutch broke open the defks and trunks of the faflors, was there found a fingle paper or letter, which could be conftrued into the moft diflant relation to any confpiracy. Add to all this, that fuch of the unhappy fufFerers as could fpeak to be heard, declared in the moft folemn manoer their innocence of the plot With which they were charged. The whole of the tranfu£l!on affords the mofV irre- fragable teftimony that it was founded entirely upon a political fi£iion of the Hollanders, who had them- felves formed the defign of monopolizing the trade of the Spice Iflands; for the accomplifhment of which they perpetrated, about the fame time, a fimilar tra- gedy at Pooleron, where they put to the torture a hundred and fixty-two of the natives, whom they likewife charged with a pretended confpiracy. It may juflly be reckoned Angular in the fortune of this com- mercial republic, that they have ever fincc been per- mitted to enjoy in peace thofe invaluable iflands, which were originally obtained by fuch atrocious infringe- ments of humanity, and the laws of nations, as will flain the Dutch annals, to the latefl ages, with in- delible infamy. K CHAP, H E M D E R N [Asia* CHAP. X. Of tht Sunda IJlands, New Guinea, and New Holland, with the Nictbar, and Adaman Ijlands, THE Sunda Ulands are fo denominated from lying near the ftraits of that name, and the principal of them may be reduced to Borneo, Sumatra, and Java. BORNEO. The ifland of Borneo is fituate in the Indian Ocean, between 7 and 4 degrees north, and 4 degrees fouth latitude, and between ^o^ and 117 degrees of caft longitude. It is reckoned the largefl: ifland in the world, being about fcven hundred miles long, and near as much broad. Aa the fun is here vertical a confiderable time, the air mud of confequciice be hot. It is qualified however by the rains, which continue upwards of fix months every year, laying the flat coun- try under water, and by the fea breezes, which blow through the day. On the fubfiding of the waters, the coaftt are annually flooded for feveral hundred miles; when the furface being covered with mud, and the fun fhining u^on it with perpendicular rays, thick fogs are ufuelly occafioned, which are not di- fperfed till nine in the morning. This feafon is alfo rendered particularly difagrceab''- by an offenfive fmell, arifing from the putrid vermv. and infedls which have been left behind by the waters. Befides thofe dif- advantages, the hotteil days are generally fucceeded by chilling winds, which greatly afi'eiS the falubrity of the climate. From September to April the winds here are wefterly, and this is the rainy feafon, there hardly being two hours fair weather in the four and twenty, and the whole melancholy period likcwife accompanied with terrible ftorms of thunder. Even during the other months of the year, there is almoft every day a fliower at the rifing of the fca breeze. The interior part of Borneo is mountainous and woody, but round the whole ifland the coaft is flat and level, producing likewife extenfivc forefts of ex- cellent timber. The chief rivers are Banjar, Tatas, Java, Succadanea, and Borneo; the former of which is navigable for feveral hundred miles. The produce of this ifland is rice, cocoa nuts, oranges, citrons, plantains, melons, banana, pinc- api-les, mangoes, and all kinds of tropical fruits; with cottons, canes, rattans, and plenty of very fine Ximberj to which may be added, gold, precious flunes, Ibme iron mines, cumphirc, bezoar, load-flone, and pepper. Of this there are three kinds, the firft and beft of which is the Molucca, or Lonr pepper; the fecond is called Caytongee pcppc, and the other Ncgaree, which is the worft fort, but in the greatcft plenty. This fpecici of pepper is fm.ill, hollow, and light. The white pepper ii f,iid to grow on the fame tree which produces the black, but the former bears double the price. It is conjcJlurcd to be the belt: of the fruit which drops of itfelf, and is gathered by the poor people in fmall quantities, before it changes its colour ; but of this we arc not informed with certainty. There are here the fame animals as on the continent of India, fuch as elephants, buffaloes, deer, &c. but the moll remarkable animal, and which is almofl peculiar to this ifland, is the celebrated oran-outang, or man of the woods, which is reckoned by f';iiie naturalifts to be of the human fpccics, but fccms to belong more properly to that of the monkies, lie is ufually defcribed as being near fix feet high. He walks upon his hinder legs, has no tail, but a face which rcfemblcs the human, and with hair only or» the fame parts of the body that arc diftinguifhcd in men by that covering. The natives of Borneo confii'^. of rkvo diflcrcnt clalTea of people, namely the Banjareens and Byayos ; tha former of whom inhabit the fea coafts, and the latter the mountainous parti of the ifland. The Banjareens are of a low ftature, very fwarthy, with bad features, refembling moft the negroes of Guinea, but their complexions not fo dark. They are well propor- tioned, however, and h.-ive black hair, which is kept continually fliining with greafe. I'hc features and complexion of the women are much better than thofe of the men, and they ate .>.ia to move with a good grace. The common peopU: wear no other covering but a bit of cloth, which hangs down before from a girdle, and a piece of linen tied about their heads. 1 ue better fort of the inhabitants however wear drawers, but no fliirt; and on days of ceremony they appear in a veil of red or blue filk, with a piece of filk or fine linen tied round their loins, and loofely thrown over their left fhoulder. Their legs and feet are bare; their hair is bound up in a roll, and a piece of muflia or cal'co tied over it. When they go abroad, they always carry a crice or dagger in their fafh, itnd are reputed to be a hofpitable and friendly people. The Byayos or mountaineers are much larger bodied men than the former, and on account of their more adiivc life, are likcwife far fuperior in point of flrength. They generally go naked as the Canjareens, but paint their bodies blue, and like other inhabitants of the hot climates, anoint thcmfelves with oil, which fme.'s ex> tremely offenfive. With refpe(St to the food of the natives of this coun- try, it chiefly coiififts of rice; but they likewife cat venifon, fifh, fowl, and almcft all kinds of meat, ex- cept hog's flelh. Pcrfons of diflinflion are ferved in gold or filver plate, but others ufc only btafs or earthen difhes. It is univcrfally the cuftoni to fit crofs-legged upon mats or carpets at their meals, and almoft the whole day, chewing betel and arek, or fmoaking to- bacco, which is mixed with opium, and greatly ufed by both fexes. They are fo much addifled to this praftice, that they often continue it till they become ftupid. The whole company ufually fmoak with one pipe, which after paflin^ through the fcrvicc of the ma/^er of the fcafi, is lent to the reft in order. Their rural fports are hunting, fljooting, and fifliing; but they fometimes perform rude comedies, and have been taught to game by the Chincfe, Their [Asia* fore it changes its mcd with certainty, as on the continent ftalocs, licer, &c. nd which is almod •atcd oran-outang, reckoned by fome ii's, but fccms to : monkics, lie is X feet high. He 10 tail, but a face with hair only on ire diftinguifhcd in *o diiTorent claflea and Hyayos; tha fts, and the lattc* The Banjareens with bad features, luinea, but their are well propor- lir, which is kept The features and 1 better than thofs move with a good !r covering but a 01 e from a girdle, heir heads. 1 oe er wear drawers^ »ony they appear piece of nik or d loofely tlirown and feet are bare; a piece of muflin go abroad, they ir fafh, .-\nd are people. uch larger bodied It of their more )oint of ftrength. rccns, but paint itants of the hot which fme.ls ex- ves of this coun- ^ey likewife cat ds of meat, cx- 3n are fervcd in brafs or earthen fit crofs-leggcd and almoft the or fmoaking to- nd greatly ufed iddiiSled to this 11 they become ^moak with one : fervice of the order. Their d fifliing; but snd have been Their SuNDA Islands.] GENERAL TRAVELLLR. i9 Their common mode of faiutation is the falam, or lifting their hands to their heads, and bowing their bodies a little ; but before their princes they throw themfelves proftrate on the ground. No pcrfon prc- fumes to fpeak to a fuperior without being dcfired. In the level country, they ufually travel in covered boats upon the rivers ; but the great men, who live in the interior parts, make ufe of elephants or horfes. The Banjareens are generally Mahometans, and the Byayos all pagans, differing little in their rites from the tame religion on the continent. Both tribes of the inhabitants arc extremely fuperilitious, pretending to charm away difeafes, to foretell future events, and the like, each alfo allowing a plurality of wives and concubines. Their arms are the cricc or dagger, with the lance, and the weapon called the fampit, formerly mentioned in the account of Celebes. The chief town in Borneo was formerly Banjar Mafleen, which once lay about twelve miles up the Banjar, and was built on floats or rafts in the river, but it is now removed to Tatas, fix miles farther from the coaft. This floating capital forms one long i flrec't J each houfe confiding only of a fingle floor, ^^Si divided into apartments, according to the number of 5II the family. The walls and partitions are made of ■^ fplit cane, and the roofs covered with palm branches, the eaves reaching within five feet of the bottom, to defend them from the heat of the fun. The feveral houfes lie at anchor, and are faflened together with hooks and rings, but joined in fuch a manner as to be eafily detached, upon the alarm of a fire having broke out '" any par' of the town. The tide of ebb is fo ftrong at Tatas, that fometimes the houfes on thofc floats break loofe from their moorings, and are driven out to fea, fiefides the floating town which is flationcd in this part of the river, there is one built of more fubfluntial materials on (Iiore, and others that ftand upon pillars, feveral feet above the furface, and have no communication but by boats during the rainy feafon. The moft noted towns next to Tatas arc Caytongce, now the rcfidence of the greatefl prince in the ifland, and lying about two hundred miles up tlie river Banjar; Metapora, about ten miles from the former, the abode of the prince of Negaree, where there is a good magazine of fire arms, and fome great guns mounted before the gates of the palace; Borneo, fituate on a fine bay of the fea, in the north- wefl part of the ifland, once the refidence of the mofl powerful prince in the country, but now a place of little trade; and Succadanca, lying in a commodious bay in the fouth-wcll part of the ifland, and formerly more rclorted to by the Europeans than any other port. Tlic ifiand of Borneo is divided into a great many goveruments, which h^ e each their fultan or fove- leign, the moll powerful at prefent being the emperor (if Cnytoiigee, in whofe territories lies the greateft part of the pepper plantations, whither a multitude of forci^ti merchants refort every year for this commo- dity. Here arc no fliips of war, and but few trading veflels belonging to the country. Some however they have, which, like thofe in the Ladrone Iflands, will fall above twenty miles an hour. The land forces of the fultan confift of militia, embodied as necc/Tity requires. But poflefTing neither difciplinc nor courage in an eminent degree, they are far from being for- midable; and the fortifications of the towns and caftlcs are likewife too weak to afllard defence. The commodities chiefly imported from Borneo by the Europeans are, pepper, gold, diamonds, camphire, bezoar, aloes, maftick and other gums; and thofe mofl proper to be carried thither, befides bullion and treafure, are fmall cannon, from a hundred to two hundred weight, lead, calimancocs, cutlery wares, iron bars, fmall fleel bars, hangers, nails, red leather boots, fpcilacles, clock-work, fmall arms with brafs mountings, horfe piftols, blunderbufTes, gun- powder, and looking-glafTesi It is imagined that the trade to Borneo might be rendered as advantageous as that to any other country of India, by means of the China fleet which lies here great part of year, and could fupply the merchants with the goods of that empire, almofl as cheap as at Canton; efpecially confidering the far greater length of the voyage to China, -.vith the cufloms, port charges, and extortions of the revenue officers, with which it is attended. Here the Europeans alfo meet with the Macaflar praws, which, notwith- (landing all the vigilance of the Dutch, biir.g hither cloves, nutmegs, mace, gambuge, cafTia, aloes wood, and many other forts of rich merchandize. In the beginning of the prefent century, an attempt was made by the Englifh to eflablifh a faiSlory in this ifland ; but through the mifmanagement of thofe who were appointed to condudl it, the defign proved abor- tive. Should the projefl be revived, however, and more prudent meafures adopted, it probably might be carried into execution with facility and fuccefs. SUMATRA. Sumatra, another of the Sunda Iflands, is fituate between 5 J. degrees north, and fi degrees fouth lati- tude, and between 93 and 104 degrees of eafl longi- tude ; being nine hundred miles in length, and about one hundred and fifty in breadth. The air in this ifiand is generally unhealthy near the coafl, not only on account of the great heat and moiflure, but of the fuddcn viciffitudes from fultry heat in the day-time, to cold chilling winds in the night. To thofe caufcs of infalubrity may be added, the fait ftinking ouzc, which emits an extremely noxious vapour, fo injurious particularly to foreigners, that fuch as are expofed to it feldom furvive three years. A chain of mountains extends along the whole length of the country, from the north-weft to the fouth-eafl, where the air is con- fiderably more wholefome than in the fkirts of the ifland; and about forty miles fouth-eafl of Bencoolen, there is a mountain called Singledemond, which is a mile in height perpendicular, Here are a great many fmall rivers, but few of them navigable much beyond their mouths, on account of the rapidity with which they arc precipitated from the mountains. I'he riiny feafon, as in moft places near the equinodlial, con- tinues 4» THE M D R N [AsiAi '!:!' tinues upwards of fix months every year, and no where with greater violence. The waters of all the rivers which overflow the low countries are foul and un- wholerome, not fit to be drank till they have been boiled and fettled, and been farther corrected by an infudon of tea or fome other herb; a circumftance which adds not a little to the infalubrity of the climate. The produce of Sumatra is pepper, rice, fugar, camphire, gold-dufV, btzoar, canes^ and cotton. Their fruits are cocoa-nuts, limes, oranges, mangoes, plan- tains, guavas, jar!i:s, durions, pine-apples, mango- fteens, and fuch others as are indigenous in the tro- pical climates. Here are alfo melons, peas, beans, potatoes, yams, radifhcs, and plenty of all kinds of garden-ftuiF. The ifland likewife produces a plant called bang, which nearly refembies hemp, and being taken in infufion, exhilirates the fpirits, fometimes even to a degree of madncfs.; on which account it is ufed by the natives before they go to battle, with the fame view as opium by the Turks. The ftaple commodity of this ifland, next to gold, is pepper, of which none produces greater abundance. This plant is cultivated in the level plains, near the banks of rivers. The ftalk being flender, it is fup- ported by a thorny tree, and the berries bang from it in chifters, in the fame rnanner as thofe of the elder. The vine produces no fruit till the fourth year, and from tnis time to the eighth the quantity annually increafes. After which period the crop declines, and about the tenth year totally ceafes. The ufual time of gathering the crop is about Michaelmas, but there is a fmall crop in March. The animals in Sumatra are a fmall breed of horfes, buffaloes, deer, goats, hogs, tygers, monkies, fquirrels, guanoes, porcupines, alligators, ferpents, fcorpions, with mufketoes and other infeiSls. Here are alfo hens, (lucks, and other poultry; with pigeons, parrots, paraquets, maccaws, and fmall birds. Sea and river iifh are likewife in great plenty. Elephants, though fome they have, are faid not to be natives of the ifland. In their perfons and habits the natives of Sumatra very much refemble thofe of Borneo., They ire of a moderate Aature, and fwarthy complexion, with black hair and eyes, flat nofes, and high cheek bones. Befides anointing their bodies with oil, they die their teeth black, and let fome of the nails of the left hand grow as long as their fingers, fcraping them till they become tranfp.ircnt, and tinging them with vermillion. Round their heads they generally tie a piece of blue or white linen, or wear a cap not much unlike the crown of a hat. The better fort wear drawers or breeches, with a piece of callico or filk wrapped about their loins, and thrown over the left (houlder. They wear fandals in the towns, but ufually travel bare>foot. In refptSi of genius and difpofition, they are reckoned proud, heavy and indolent. Rice generally conflitutes the grei'eft part of their diet, with which they cat foop made of flefh or iifh, and a very little meat high fcafoncd. The Mahometan religion is profefled upon all the Qoafts of Sumatra, but the people are not great zealots. and their raofqucs fo meanly built, that many of them are no better than cottages. The inhabitants of the mountains are pagans, who are faid to venerate a bull^ as one of the objects of their worfliipj on which ac- count they abftain from eating of beef. The Mahometans fpcak and write the Malayart tongue, but the mountaineers have a language peculia' to themfclves. The former write from th: right hand to the left, uflng ink and a coarfc brown paper } but the latter proceed in the contrary direction, and en- grave with a fiile on the outfidc of a bamboo cane. Sumatra is divided into a great number of different kingdoms or ftates, among which that of Achcn is the moil confiderable. The capital tf this kingdom, and of the whole ifland, is a town of the fame name, fituate in 5 degrees 30 minutes north latitude, and in 93 degrees 30 minutes eaft longitude. It Hands in a plain, at the dilbnce of a mile from the fca. In circumference it is about a mile and a half, defended by a few fmall forts, but chiefly by the woods and bogs with which it is fiirroundcd. The middle is occupied by the king's palace, round which, inflead of a wall, there are great banks of earth, planted with canes and reeds, that render the pTaxx inacceffible. A rivulet runs through the city, lined with flone, in which the inhabitants ufually bathe. It is computed that this metropolis contains npwardt of feven thoufand houfes, which are generally de- tached at a little diflance from each other, and fur- rounded with pallifadoes; except in fome (Ireets where' the markets are kept, or where foreigners inhabit, who choofe their dwellings to be more contiguous, as a fccurity againil theft and robberies, which are here very frequent. Mofl of the houfes are ere£led upon pillars, ten feet high, the waters overflowing the flreets in the rainy feafon. They are built of fplit cane or bamboo, with which they are alfo floored; every houfe being accommodated with a flone vault, to ferve as a repofttory for their moft valuable efFe^s, which would otherwife be frequently expofed to the injuries of lire. Fadlors both from the European and Afiatic countries refide here, but the Chinefe are far the moft numerous. Thirty miles eaft of Achen is fltuate Pcdir, beyond which, farther to the fouth-eafl, lie Pacim and Dely, once capitals of kingdoms, but now extremely declined. On the eaft coafl are the towns of Polambam and Jamby, the latter of which, fituate on a river about fifty miles from the fea, is the capital of all the Dutch fettlem.nts on this coafl. Proceeding from the fouth along the weft coafV of Sumatra, the tirft fettlemcnt wc meet with is Sillebar, which ftands at the mouth of a river on a fine bay, in about four degrees of fouth latitude. At a little diflance thence is ficncoolen, the prin- cipal Englifh fettlement on the coafl. This town, which is extremely unhealthy, is two miles in cir- cumference, inhabited chiefly by the natives; the Englifh, Chinefe, and Portuguefe, having each their refpe£tive quarters, ft was taken by the French in the laft war, but detained only a very fliorC time. Three ' ! :^ [AsiAi that rainy of them inhabitants oi' the I to venerate a bull^ hip; on which ac- :ef. trite the Malayan a language peculia- from the right hand brown paper ; but dirctSiion, and en> a bamboo cane, lumber of different that of Achcn is 1 c( this Icingdom, of the fame name, lorth latitude, and igitudc. It Aands I from the fua. In id a half, defended the woods and bogs : middle is occupied inflcad of a wall, ted with canes and :ei&ble, A rivulet lone, in which the is contains upwards are generally de- ich other, and fur- I fome (Ireets where foreigners inhabit, more contiguous, bberies, which are houfes are ere£led ers overflowing the built of fplit cane Ifo floored; every one vault, to ferve >ble efFe£ls, which }fed to the injuries ropean and Afiatic linefe arc far the I ate Pcdir, beyond Pacim and Dely, rxtremely declined, of Polambam and e on a river about d of all the Dutch the wcfl coaft of :t with is Sillebar, vcr on a fine bay, ide. coolen, the prin- afl. This town, two miles in cir- thc natives; the having each their by the French ily a very fliort Three SvsDA Islands.] GEMEtlAL TRAVELLeH. 4i Three miles from Bencoolen, flands fort Marlbo- rough, in a dry elevated fituation, and therefore much more healthy than the former. Northward on this coalt there are feveral other port towns, particularly Ban- tall, likewife an Englifh fcttlcmeiit j Indrapour and Padang, Dutch fettlements ; with Tecon and PalTa- man, almoft under the c(]uino£lial. In the north part of Sumatra, there are Teveral oran- cayas or great lords, who cxercife fovereign authority in their refpeftive territories, but acknowledge the king of Achen as their fuperior. The throne of this prince is hereditary, not eleAive; yet he can nomi- nate to the fucceflion one of his younger children, in preference to the eldeft fon, even though the latter be born of a wife, and the other of a concubine. The fouth part of the ifland is likewife divided into a great number of fmall territories, which are governed by their refpeflive pangarans or rajahs, with the advice of the proatens or principal men of the flate. There are fome towns upon the coaft veiled with fovereign power, and governed by their own magiftrates, cailid ilutus, whofe jurifdiflion is totally independent of the pangarans or rajahs. Twelve citizens of this cl^f": prefide over Bencoolen, and four have the direiHion of Sillebar. The inhabitants of the mountains ac- knowledge fubjedtion to the chiefs of their refpeflive tribes, who, though mutually independent of each other, maintain a firm alliance, fur the prefervation of their common fecurity, againft the numerous powers which furround them. In refpefl of military force, the conflitution of Sumatra is exadlly the fame with that of Borneo ; none of the princes having any (landing army, a few guards excepted, but depending entirely upon the militia; under which denomination are included all the men capable of bearing arms, who are obliged, whenever they are fummoned, to repair to the flandard of :heir leader. There appears to be no written laws in this country, except thofe of the Alcoran, and the comments by the prieds, which are only received among the Mahometan part of the inhabitants; the dccifions in other cafes being governed by cuftom and precedents. For mur- der and adultery, the ufual punifhment is death, which is not inllifled by a profclFed executioner, but jointly by every perfon who happens to be within reach of the criminal; and the common weapon is a crice or dagger. Women, however, for capital oft'ences, are ftrangled with the bow-firing. Theft is for the nioft part punlfhed either with the amputation of the fingers or toes, or fomctimes of the limbs, according to the aggravation of the crime; but for the third rraDfgrcnion of this kind, the delinquent is put to (li.uth, by beheading, impaling, or the like. Among the foreigners that refort to Sumatra for the fikc of traffic, the Chinefe are the mod numerous. Ten or twtlve fail of their junks arrive here annually in the month of June, which bring with them rice and other produce of the country. In this fleet there likewife comes a number of artizans, who immediately go to work in making tables, cabinets, and chefts of drawers, with various other articles of houfliold No. 4. furniture, utenflls and toys, which they eitpofe to Tale in one of the flreets of Achen, diflinguifhed by the name of the Chinefe camp. The fair continues for three or four months of the year, during which time it is greatly crouded, not only by the natives biit the Europeans, who refort hither to drink hockfhew^ a kind of (Irong beer made of wheat, and preferred by (Irangers to any liquor which the country affords. The pepper brought to the Englifh faflory at Ben- coolen grows in the territories of two rajahs, or Indian princes, one of whom hat his capital at Singledemond, ten miles north of the fettlement, and the other at Bufar, about as far eaft from the fame. Both thefe have houfes at Bencoolen, where they rcflde occafion- ally when they have any bufinefs to tranfa£l with our people, vvho pay them two foocas, or half a dollar cuflom for every bahar, containing five hundred and lixty pounds weight of pepper. In confideration of this acknowledgment, the rajahs undertake to promote the cultivation of the commodity, and to bring their fruit to the Englifh fa£lories. When the pepper is weighed and delivered to the purchaferi, it is paid for at the rate of ten molocos or Spanifh dollars for every bahar. The ifland of Sumatra is fuppofed by fome to be the Ophir mentioned in fcripture, whence Solomon im- ported his gold. It is certain, however, from the iVfahometan religion being ellahlifhed on the coafls^ that the Arabians afterwards traded hither, though no account is to be found of the commercial tranf- aflions of the country, till it was difcovered by the Portugucfe, about the year 1500 of the Chriflian era, who enjoyed the exclufive traffic with this, and the ad- jacent iflands, during almofl the whole fucceeding century. In the year 1600, the Englifh Ea(l>India company having obtained a charter, impowering them to trade to thofe parts, they fitted out four (hips for Sumatra, which arrived at Achen on the 5th of June, 1602, carrying with them a letter from queen Elizabeth to the king of that country. This overture of commenc- ing a trafEc between the two nations was received by the latter with particular marks of cordiality, in con- fequence of which the Englifh ereded feveral fdrts in the ifland, and continued to carry on the trade without interruption, till the beginningof the prefent century. In the year 1719, however, the natives formed a re- folution of driving the Englifh from their coaflsi being induced to this meafure by fome impolitic a£ls of violence exercifed by the governor of Bencoolen, who put in the flocks two rajahs or fovereign princes in that neighbourhood, becaufe their people had not brought down pepper to the fort fo quickly as he ex- pefled. An infurreflion immediately fucceeded, which was begun by fetting fire to the compary's plantations, when there being only a hundred and twenty- five Englifh in the fort, moft of them unexperienced or difabled men, it was judged proper Cvr the company's fervice, to put their treafure on board a velTel which then lay in the road. The greater part of the garri- fon likewife embarking faved their lives, while thofe who could not efFe£luate their efcape, were cut to L pieces 4« THE MODERN [Asm. II ■ pieces by the enemy, A year had not clapfcJ, how- ever, after this unfortunate event, when the Engiilh were again invited by the natives to return to their fettlcnicnts on the ifland, with the view of preventing it from becoming a prey to the Dutch, the fcverity of whofu government they dreaded more than that of the other. The propofal was accordingly accepted b) the company, who have ever fincc maintained a regular traffic with this ifland, which, confidcring the great importance of the pepper trade, it would be highly imprudent to abandon. A. Java, the next of the Sunda IHimJs, is fituatc between 5 and 8 degrees of fouth latitude, and between 102 and 113 degrees of eaft longitude; being fevcn hundred miles long, and upwards of a hundred broad. The climate is nearly the fame with that of the other iflands in thisclafs. The air on the fea-coaft is gene- rally unhealthy, wheVe the bogs are not drained, and the lands cultivated, but farther up in the country it is much better, A range of mountains runs along the middle of the ifland from eaft to wefl, which are co- vered with fine woods, the low lands all round being flooded during the whole of the rainy feafon. This ifland was anciently divided into a number "f petty governments, which are at prefent reduced to a few. The north coaft is under the dominion of the Dutch ; and the fouth is fubjefl to the kings of Palam- bang and Materaii. The chief towns are Bantam, and Batavia or Jacatra. Bantam, which was formerly the capital, is fltuate in 6 deg. 30 min. fputh latitude, and in 105 deg, call longitude, in a fine plain at the foot of a moun- tain, whence run three rivers, two of which furround the town, and the other pafl'es through the middle of it. While this place continued to be the mart of the ifland, it was twelve miles In compafs, and exceeding populous, but it is now greatly declined both in extent and the number of inhabitants, Batavia, the prefent capital, lies 40 miles end of Bantam, on a bay of the fea. Before the bay arc fcvcral iflands, that cover it from the winds, fo that a thoufand fail may ride here fecurely ; the navigation being farther facilitated by two large moles projcdling half a mile into the fea, where veflcis may lie clofe to the keys. The town is almod of a quadrangular form, built with white flone, and laid out in fpacious flreets, through the principal of which run canals, lined with ftone, and planted with ever-grecns. The town is defended by a fort which commands the har- bour, and furrounded by a wall with twenty-two baftions; the fuburbs extending a mile and half farther, where there are large gardens and orchards, for the fecurity of which, as well as to guard the avenues to the city, little forts are ereiSled on every fide, for the fpace of fix or feven miles round. Moft of the great towns ill this ifiand, efpecially fueh as are fubjedl to the Dutch, are fituate on the north coaft. Thofe eaft of B^iavia are Charabon, Samaraiig, Japara, Room- bong, Tuban, Sidaya, Jortan and Surabija; at the ead end of the ifland arc the towns of Paflurvan and Panarucan ; and on the fouth coall, Palenibaiig and Materan. The principal grain that grows in the ifland is rice, DePdcs which there arc plantations of fugar, tobacco, and coft'ce. Garden- \i\^\\- Sic, with gums ill. IIcic arc ali'u :cs natural to thu veral kinds of rcil uiar i:> extremely ;quent. It afturda the fibres of tliu ranches tliey cover trite with an iron boats, and other loo cane. intry are bu/Faloes 1 of horfes. The r hair than wool, :h wild and tame, he venifon. The wild beafls, cro- on<, locufts, and and puulcr)- uf a nd the ifland in It nations, among iiful and wealthy. he Chinefe, who >eM. They farm lore or lefs con- mmercial budncfi refide ia Batavia , retaining their of wearing their indulgence from the territories of ts likewife confift ny complexions. eves, and a cloth pics with a piece of their hair, the wear a waiftcoat reaches half way >vering on their the natives of country. They reckoned very m i Indian nations, who have migrated hither, which renders the place at prefcnt one of the mod populous cities in Afia. It is computed that of the Chinefe alone, there are not lefs than a hundred thoufand In the ifland of Java, and of thofe the greater part live either in the capital or its environs. Uy fuch a mul- titude of this induftrious people, tlie trade of Batavia is not only greatly increafei), but a confiderable addi- tion is alfo made to the revenues of the Dutch ; every Chinefe inhabitant being obliged to pay a poll- tax for the privilege of wearing their hair, exclu- five of fo much for every filver and gold bodkin in it. The Dutch permit no European nation to trade with the ifland of Java; but from China there ufually come hither every year fourteen or fifteen junks of two or three hundred tun, which arrive in the month of November or December, and return home in June. By means of this fleet, the ifland is fupplied with all the merchandize of China, upon eafier terms than they could purchafe it in the ports of that cour../ The Dutch however import in their own bottoms the pro- duce of Japan, the Spice Iflands, Pcrfia, and India, befides the merchandise of Africa and Europe, To fo great an extent is this traffic carried, that we are told there are no where fuch magazines of goods as in Batavia, except in Amflerdam itfelf. Their trade with the coafts of India is much more advantageous than that of any other European nation, to the fame partr. For fubfifting entirely by barter, it is fo far from diminifhing their treafure, that it brings them more gold and filver than any other article of commerce. The ifland of Java is conftantly guarded by the Dutch, with a force fuflicient for the fecurity of fo important an acquifition. They have ufually here a Handing army, confiding of upwards of twenty thou- fand men, partly Hollanders, and partly natives of India; but, excepting the guards, their cloathing is mean, and not uniform. As a farther protedtion to this and the other iflands in thofe parts, they alfo have for the moft part a fleet of thirty or forty men of war in the Indian fea j a force not only capable of de- fending their fettlements, but even of obftrufting, againd other European nations, the paflage to China through the Straits of Sunda and Malacca, fliould they ever be inclined to monopolize the trade to that country. The governor of Batavia is inverted with great au- thority, and the ftate which he aflumes is correfpon- dent to the idea of his power. A troop of horfe- guards precedes his coach when he goes out ; the ve- hicle is attended by halbardiers, who march on each flue, and followed by a company of foot«guards, cloathed in yellow fattin, enriched with filver lace and fringe. His lady is likewife accommodated with guards, and treated in all refpeds with the attention paid to regal dignity. The princes of the ifland who are vaflTals to the Dutch, are permitted the full enjoyment of their for- mer fplendor and oflcntation. When the king of Bantam goes in or out of his palace, the great guns are fired ; four men of the moft gigantic ftature and fierce countenances that can be procured, with their fhields and broad Avords, begin the proceflion. Tliefe arc followed by two companies of Javanefe foldiers, and a body of Dutch } behind whom rides the king, mounted on a Perfian horfe caparifoncd with gold. A great number of women f" ound him on foot, carrying golden vefll-ls, with fr jits and flowers j and the proceflion is clofcd with two companies of foldiers, the one Dutch, and the other natives of Java. This ifland, V&r moft of the other countries of India, was difcovered by the Portuguefe about the end of the fifteenth century, who were the only European nation that traded hither for a hundred years after, when the Englifh and Dutch began likewife to obtain a (hare of the commerce. BanL:'^ Jiiciiig almoU any i)Unili partiriilarly cii are I'uiil lo be ', and liavc a deep hail, and black t a i^irJIe of linen i\cn reaches belotV of their eye brows ' on fid), and the r< (luces fpontanc- uiers, e^ch con- 01 pillars, eight oi- ound, and covcrc I this and the other e moon ; but fonie hriftianity by the iched hither, and cen ereiSled. The ler with any other (hips that fait thitt ith hogs, poultry, 'ords, for tobiccu, we arrive at the rrees of eafl long!- s of tiortb latitude, om thofe of Nico- li with the fruits of he food of the in- by fomc voyagers, aman and Nicobar ars from the niofl utation is entirely m devouring their ny flefl) at all. :viir. la Iflandt. le Spice Iflands, !* jrces of eaft longi- 9 of north latitude, .eaft of the penin- omputcd to be two wo hundred broad, tainous and covered ; many fertile plaint ired with rivulets, hat which is named Europeans, Adam's , terminating at tha which there is the •J feet long. The was made by their ice to heaven ; and ually to worfliip the the principal rivers but they run with rocks, that none of is generally bealth- ful« ful, except near (he fea, and the north piirt of the idand, where having no fprings or rivers, the inha- bitants luffer great inconvenitnces from a defcit of water in ih« dry frafuns. The capital of the idand is Candy, fituate about the middle of it. This, though an open town, ami not fortified, is yet almoil inacceflible, on account of the roiks and thick woods with which it is en ompalTcu, prohibiting entrance all round, except through fomc lanes, which are fenced with gates of ftrong thorn, Columho, the capital of the Dutch fettlenients, is a great port-town, in the fouth-wcft part of the idand, lying in 78 degrees of eaft longitude, and 7 degrees of north latitude. '1 he h.-irbour, which is large and commodious, is defended by a caftle, and fcvcral bat- teries of guns. In this fortrcfs refides the governor, with the merchant., and troops belonging to the Ead India company; the fpace between the calllc and the fea bcJn^; occupied by huts, which contain about four Ihoufand H.ives. On the fame cnaft, twenty- Rve miles north, is rilu.-itc Negumbo, another port-town, whence twenty miles farther lies Chilao, remarkable for an excellent harbour, On the eaft fide of the ifland are, Trinco- male, and Batacalao, at the latter of which there is a fortrefs, Jaffnapatan, the capital of the province of that namf, is alfo regularly fortified by the Dutch, to prevent any other nation from fending colonies hither, though there grows no cinnamon in this part of the ifland. The natives of Ceylon are of a moderate ftature, and well proportioned. Their complexions arc dark, but far inferior in blacknefs to thofe of the Indians on the adjacent continent. They have good features, black hair and eyes, and the men wear long beards. The drcfs of the male fcx is a waiftcoat of callico, with a girdle of the fame, in which they put their knife and a few trinkets. They wear a hanger by their fide, in a filver fcabbardj every man likewifc carrying in his hand a cane, and being attended by a buy with a box, which contains his betel and arek nut. Young men of figure wear their hair long and combed back, but thofe of a more advanced age, ufe caps in the form of a miire. The drcls of the women is nearly the fame with that of the men. They wear a callico waiftcoat, exaiSlly fitting their body, and a girdle which hangs in general below the knees, but is longer or (horter, according to the quality of the perfon. On their head they ufe no covering, except a piece of filk when they go abroad, and their hair hangs down loofe at full length. They bore holes in their ears, which are frequently fo much enlarged by the weight of jewels depending from them, as eafily to admit a half crown. Their necks are likeAfife loidcd with heavy ornaments, which fall upon their brcafts; their arms are furnifticd with bracelets; and on their fingers, and even toes, they wear a great number of rings, with a girdle of filver wire and plate round their waifts. The inhabitants of this ifland, like thofe of the hot climates in general, are addiitcd to indolence, but not luxurious. Though grave, and of an even temper, No. 4. they poflefi acute underftanding, and have an agreeable addrefs. Their fecial qujiities, however, are much tarnilhed by a propenfity to lying, but their difinge- nuity fcems not to be attended with any unfavourable opinion of the virtue of others; for in regard to con- nubial fidelity in particular, the men are fcldom jealous of their wives. The common falute here, as in other parts of India, is the faleni, or the carrying one or both hand.s to their heads, according to the quality of the perfon to whonx the compliment is paid. For the neareft relations and friends to talk much on a vifit, is confidcicd as a mark of levity, and people of this character are generally held in little eflecm. In Ceylon, as well as other h:>t countries, rice conftitutes a principal article in the diet of the inha- bitants, and in the cultivation of this grain they difplay remarkable induftry, not only in levelling the grounds, but banking them round fo that they may contain water. It is not unufual to fupply their fields with this element by means of artificial conduits from the tops of mountains ; and in thofe parts of the ifland where there are neither fprings nor rivers, as is the cafe in the north, they preftrve the rain-water in great refer- voirs in the time of the monfoons, conveying it gradu- ally in rills to their fields and gardf.-n, until the rice has attained its full growth. As lOon as the grain is ripe, they tread it out with oxen and buffaloes in the field; previous to which operation, they always pay their devotion to fome idol, and intreat a blefling on their labours. Other kinds of grain are likewife ufed in the country for bread, efpecially toward the end of the year, when there is a fcarcity of rice. The principal of thofe is the coracan, which is a very fmall feed. This grows in a fandy foil, and come.' to maturity in a (h3rt time. Another grain, named tanna, not much different from the preceding, is alfo ufed for bread, but it is dry and infipid. Of the feed tolla they ufe only the oil, with which they anoint their bodies. Among the fruits of this country, is the betel nut already mentioned, of which the inhabitants ufed for- merly to export a great quantity to the coaft of Coro- mandcl, till the Dutch put an entire ftop to this traffic. The fruit jack, which is much ufed in this country, is of a rouhd form, and as large as a peck loaf, covered with a green prickly rind, containing kernels re- fembling the chcfnut. They generally gather this fruit before it arrives at maturity, and boil it, in which condition it eats like cabbage; but when allowed to become ripe, it is brought to the table without any preparation. Another indigenous fruit callei jambo, taftes like an apple, and has a beautiful ap- pearance on the tree. Befides thofe feve'd kinds, they have alfo fruits refembling plums and cherries, with mangoes, cocoas, oranges, and the various pro- duiSlions natural to the tropical climates. It is ufual in this ifland to dedicate their fruit rrees to fomt demon, with the view of preventing, as they imagine, the depredation of thieves; and fo great it the dread of punifhment apprehended from this invi- fib'e guardian, that the expedient generally proves M fuc. H M O I) K II N [AllA. Cticeertful. llci't.ie the owner eati .-I'.y cf his fruil, the fielils they raifu hilhicka fix feet high, of a purt !ie aUv.iys otltrj a p:irt of it '.o an ii'il. : \ liite clay, fo hard that a pick-ax penetrati-i their There i] here alfo a great nutnbtr of (luwcri, of fiiLlance with Jitliculty, Thofe infe^M are not long- varioui culuuii and cxquiliie fragrance, that grow ' lived : wh'-n arrivrj at maturity they have wings, fpontancoufly in the fields, and with which the yoiing piupic of huth fcxcn adorn their iuir. Unc- (p?cies, refembling the jcfljininc, ii fi> highly eftecnied, that 110 fubje(5l is perniiitcd to wear it, being refcrvcj for the ull- of the king. Ain.n'.g thci' trees, the tallijiot, which prows tall and llrair, is remarkable for the fir.c of ii l< aves. ..lid fly up in fuch clouds as to intercepr the light of ilic fun. Moon after which they fall down dead, and are eaten by fowls; the latttr, happily for the natives, ilcvouring them likewifc at other times, Befidcs the common bees, which are in great plenty ill the inami, and generally build in hollow trees, there is h're a larger (pecics, of a much more lively colour. Each ol thofe is fo large as to caver fifiecn or twenty ' which foiin their combs on the high boughs, men, and .^ill fuld up like a fan. The natives weir I At the foafuii when the rain begins to fall, the in- a piece of It on 'heir heads wlu-n they travel, lu fkrecn habitants arc much annoyed with fmall red leeches, then) from the funj and it is likewifc frequently ufcd 'lich at firll arc not much bigger than a hair, ill the way of touts, to tic under in the (icIJj. Ihcy run up peoples leg\ on which tliey fix, and are Anolhrr tree called rellule, is a kind palm, grow- with difTuuky difengaged. Their bite, however, is ing as high as a cocoa-tree, from which they draw a ! not dangerous, and the bleeding which enfues it lii]uor that is plcafant, but not ftrong. Of tins bevcr- recVo'ied falutary, when not immoderate. ffc an ordinary tree yields three or four gallons a day, and when boiled, makes a kind of brovn fjgar, called jaggory. B. V the mod valuable tree in Ceylon is the cinna- mon, uhicii is pcculi.^r to this country, and grows commcniy in the wooiLs, on the foiith-wcft part o( The fowls of the illniid are gccfc, ducks, turkeys, hens, pigeons, partridg'-s, woodcock?, fnipes, wild peacocks, and paroquets, with a beautiful fparrow, whofe colour is white, except the head, which is black, and >-^rnamentcd with a plume of feathers (land- ing upright. 1'he tail of this bird is about a foot the iflard. This tree is of a midiile fize, and bears long. a leaf refembling that of the laurr When the leaves I The natives of Ceylon ufe chiefly for diet foups maiJe firft appear, their colour is as red as fcarlct, and when cf flefh or fi(h and garden-ftulF, which they eat with rubbed between the fingers, they emit the fmcU of the i rice, feldom having at their tables any folid animal clove. The fruit, which is fimilar to an acorn, neither finclls nor tales like the bark; but if boiled i,i water, a fragrant oil fwims on the top, which they life for their lamps, and an ointment in feveral dif- tcmpers. The tree having two barks, they (trip o{F the ouifide bark, v/hich i., of little ufe, and cut the other round the tree with a pruning knife; dividing it afterwards into (lips, wliicli thcv lay in the lun to dry. food. When fuch howcv:r is produced, it is cut into little fquarc pieces, and two or ihree ounces of it laid on the fide of the difh by the rice, to which, being high feafoncd, it ferves to give a relifh. They ufe neither knives nor forks, but have ladles and fpoons, made of the cocoa nut fliell. Their plates are of brafa or China ware: but inflcad of thofe the poor people are content with the leaf of a tree, orfometimes feveral and roll up in the ufual manner. The body of the leaves fewed with bents. Their common drink is tree is white, and ferves for building and other pur- j water, which they pour out of a cruife or bottle, pofc's, I jt has neither the fmell nor the taflc of the | holding it more than a foot above their heads. Some, b.irk. When the wind fcts ofF the ifland, the cinna- 1 it is faid, will fwallow near a quart of water in this mon groves perfume the air for many miles out at 1 manner, without once gulping. Neither wine nor fca, I beer is made in the idand, but of arrack they draw a The animals in Ceylon are oxen, bufFaloes, deer, | great quantity, hogs, and goats, with fome wild beafts, but neither [ The domed ic comforts of the table arc unknown to any lions nor wolves. Horfes, adls, and ilieep, were , the natives of Ceylon. The man eats alone, and is likowife unk.iown here, li'l they were imported by the , waited upon by his women, who afterwards eat in Europeans. The ifland produces an animal which ' co.-npany with the children. refcmbles a deer, but is no bigger than a hare. When a man here is favoured with a vifit from one Monkies alfo are in great abundance, with black faces, of fuperior rank, it is ufual for the hoft at night to and white beards, i.nving much the appearance of old j compliment his gucft with his wife or daughter, to men. The elephants of the country are of a very la: go i (Icep with him; but an offer of this kind to an inferior fizc. They feed upon the tender (hoots of trees, corn, would be confidcred as a crime ; and the violating of and grafs, and do great mifchicf to the hufbandmen, a man's wife, without his confenf, U feverely punifhed not only by caring but trampling upon the produce of ' by the laws, the fields. TI.e iflr.nd is alfo infefled with alligators and Icrpents of a mondrous fize, and is almoft over-run ■with vermin and infefts, efpecially ants, to the dcpre- With refpccl to the nuptial ceremony, it is thus conduced. When a contrafl has been made by the parents of the yoking couple defigned to be married. dations of which it is faid that fc^rce any thing but iron is i the bridegroom fends the bride a piece of callico, and fol'- rd as not to be fubjefied. To fuch a degree do thofe j a flowered linen waiftcoat. A time being then ap- infcfts fwarm, even in the houfes, that if a difli of I pointed for the commencement of their cohabitation, meat is fet viown, it is immediately full of them. In I he goes the evening before with his friends to her ; father's, '4 Ceylon] GENERAL TRAVELLER. f«et high, of a pur« :-ix penetratri their infects arc not long- t tliey have wiiigj, ntercc;)t the light of fall down dead, and ippily for tlie natives, times. 'h are in great plenty n hollow tirei, there I more lively colour, igh boiighj. rgins to fall, the in- li fm:ill red leeches, bigger than a hair, lich they fix, and are ir bite, however, in ng which enfues i« oderate. cfc, ducks, turkeys, coekf, fnipcs, wild a beautiful fparrow, the head, which is nc of feathers ftand- )ird is about a foot y for diet foups made which they eat with }les any folid animal 3>luced, it is cut into ^ree ounces of it laid ce, to which, being 1 reli(h. They ufc e ladles and fpoons, eir plates are of brafa lofe the poor people or fometlmes feveral r common drink is a cruife or bottle, their heads. Some, art of water in this Neither wine nor arrack they draw » ibic are unknown to I eats alone, and is 10 afterwards eat in irith a vifit from one ;he hoft at night to rile or daughter, to s kind to an inferior and the violating of U feverely puniflied rcmony, it is thus IS been made by the ;ncd to be married, liecc of callico, and ime being then ap- r their cohabitation, his friends to her father's, ''4 father's, where he ililortains her with the grcatcft de- licacies lie can procure. Alter fuppcr the betrothed parties fleep in the I'iiine room, and having; dined next day, they fet olF in a procefToii to the houfe of the hulband. A marriage in Ceylon, however, is but a temporary agreement, the parties biiii;» at liberty to difl'ulve their connexion, if after a trul they find not the happinefs they had expeiHed. It is not uncommon for the men to change their Ipoufes in this manner feveral times, before they fix upon a perfon with whom they can think of fpcnding their lives. Hut in fuch cafei the portion received with the woman muft be returned to her father. The women of Ceylon never receive any obf^etrical afliflancc in the time of delivery, and they think it no CI Tie to procure abortion. At the birth of a child, a pretciided aftrologer is fent for and confulted, whether it is like to prove fortunate. If his opinion is in the negative, they either expofc or drown the infant, or fometimes give it to a neighbour; for by fuch a re- nunciation, they think that its natural deftiny may be altered. Children, during their minority, arc called by what nams the parents pleafe; but when grown up, they lay afide this appellation, and either airumc the name of the family, or the place where they refide. They burn tnc dead in this illand, as in the adjacent country of India. The corpfc is carried on an open bier to fome neighbouring eminence, where being l.iid upon a pile of wood, it is covered with an additional quantity of fuel. I' the dcceafed be a perfon of dif- tin£lion, an arch is erc£>eif over the pile, and adorned with flags and ftreamers. When the body has been confumed in the flames, the aflics arc collefled, and a little wall built round them. Sonic days after, a pricft is fent for to the houfe in which the perfon died, when a melancholy dirge is fung; the women, at the fame time, with their hair dishevelled, bewailing their lofs, and the male relations icftifying their grief in fighs and groans. This ceremony is repeated morning • nd evening, for feveral days. The laws in this country do not require the woman to be burnt with her hufband, as on the continent of India. On the contrary, widows arc exempted from all taxes ; and it is not uncommon for them to marry again, in a very (hort time after nature has diflblved the nuptial tie. The natives, we are informed, worfhip the Supreme Being, but neither make any image of him, not dedi- cate any temples to his name. They have idols, how- ever, the fuppofed repi.tntatives of fome great men that formerly lived on the earth, and who, as they imagine, arc now mediators for them in heaven. The chief of thofc demi-gods is Huddon, who is faid to have come originally from heaven, to procure the hippinefs of men, and rcafeended thither from the hill named Adam's Peak, where he left the im- prelTion of his foot. They alfo pay adoration to the fun and moon, and other planets. Every town has likcwifc its tutelary demon, and every family their houfhold gnJ, to whom they build chapels, in which they facrifice and perform their devotions every morn- ing. There are three clalTes of idols, with correfpond- ing orders of priefts, who have their feveral temples. and to the rnrin'eiuiice ot which certain purtioni of land are appropruted, Among the fuvcrul f.icrrdutal tribes, the people of liuddim arc held in the grealef^ ellccm, They wear a yellow vrft or m»ntlc, with 'heir heads fliaved, and beard* that jirow rt> a coiifidrrablf length. Their difciples fall down on their (.i< es bclore thcinj ai'd wherever they vifit, a floid is brou^^l.t I'or them to fit on, an honour in which only princes and magiftratcs partiiipatc. Tliofc prirfts are prohi- bited from all commerce with women, drink no Itrcng liquor, and eat only one meal ad.iy) at whieh, how- ever, they arc pcrmitteH ' • ifc every kind ol nu it, ex- cept beef; the flefh of oxen, as animals which fupcr- (lilion has here rendered facred, r.ever being tailed either by the priellhood or laity. In every other re- fpci5V, an unbounded licence is allowed to perl'uns of this order, and they are not cognizable by the temporal power for the perpetration of any crii.nr. In regard to ilic fecond order of prielts, th.it olTiciale in the temples of other idols, they arc .illowed to pro- fcfs any fecular employment, and are not diltingiiifhed from the laity by any puLuliar h.iiiltj but they have a yearly ftipend. Every moriiing and evening they at- tend the fervice of their temples, whrie when the people facrili'''! rice and freirs, ihe ^ntft prefents them hclorc the idol, delivering tliein afterwards to the pon> tifical aflidants, and the attending poor, who c,v. the provifion. To the idols of this clafs no ficfh is ever facrificcd. The third order of priefls enjoys no revenues, but fubfifts by voluntary contribution. They build temples for ihemfelves, to which they rcfort every Wcdnefday and Saturday. At the new and full moon, they offer facrifice to the god Buddon, as they do alfo on new- year's day, in the month of March, with great folem- nity, on a high mountain, or imder a fpreading tree, which is efteemed facicd. This tree, according to tradition, like the chapel of Lorctto, has travelled through feveral countries, and pafling the fea, at length planted itfclf in this ifland, where under its (hade the god Buddon ufed often to rcpol'e himfelf. The figures of many of their idols are extremely fantafiic, rcprefenting imaginary creatures, partly hu- man, and partly the rcfemblancc of fome fifli or qua- druped. Thofc in the temples of Buddon are only the images of men fitting crofs-leged in yellow veils, fuch as are worn by the priefts. Before the image is furnifhed with eyes, it is not accounted facred, but thrown about like a common block ; when thofe are completed, however, it becomes an objcdl of ado- ration. At the new moon in July, every year, a folemn fcf- tival is celebrated, which lafts till the full moon. On this occafion forty or fifty elephants, magnificently accoutered, march through the principal ftrccts of the cities, followed by people in the mafque of giants, who acc.ording to their tradition formerly inhabited the earth. Next come the mufic and dancing girls, dedi- cated to the temples, who are fucceeded by one of the priefls of Buddon, mounted on an elephant of an ex- traordinary fize, covered with white cloth, and the richeft trappings, adorned with ftreamers and flowers. Over I I II E M E R N [Asia. Uver ihc head »( ihii pcrfonagf, who rcprerfnii ihc | /tlliut titur Dii, or llic Supreme CioJ, iiiother pried | huldi an umbrclli, and on Ihc right and lel't are iwu prielli of the interior dciliei, mounted likcwife upon elephanti, Inimcdiitcly in the rear of thole \% a rrowd M A r- D I V A ISLANDS. The Maldiva Iflanda aro fuuate In the Indian ocean, between 68 and 76 dcyreei of eall longitude, and of ladici of the firfl <]ualit)r, carrying in their handi ' between the ci|iialur and 7 degreci of nuiih latitude, lighted linipi, and the proceflton i> clufed hy the nnli- [ I'hey are rxircn\i.'ly nume(oui, confiOing uf near • tary, with the courtiers and officrri of Hate, I'hii | ihnul'and lidie illiijuls ur rocks, am' are difficult tu bs ciremonLii ii regularly performed once in the day- * approuilicd, but ji thiie or four inlets. '1 heir pro* time, and once in the night, during the continuance j duce ii thv irn|iic.il fruits, efpecilly the cocoa-nut i uf the rulcinnityi the intcrvaU being Ipant in fcallin;;, I with the I tile fcj-Ihclli, or cnwtiiej, called black-a- finging, and dancingi with a total intcnupiion of all bunnefa, I'hcre are In the ifland great numbcrii of Chriftiani, dcfcendcd fioni the profclytei made by the Popifh mil- fionarics, while the Hortuguefc were mafleri of ihi' countryi and thofc ha^c fume churches near the fea- coaO, but none in the Interior parts. The Portugucfe tongue is (pokcn among the Chrif- tians in Ceylon, but the vernacular language of the ifland is a dialeiS\ uf that which la ufed on the Malabar coalK There is likcwife a dead language ('jiokc only by the bramins or pricfls, in which the books relating t9 their religion are written. They write upon the leaves of the talipot wi(h a flcel (lyle or bodkin. 'I'hc only fcicncc they are ac- quainted with is aOronomy, which they have learnt fiom the Arabian colonics that fettled on their coalh, and tlicy can foretcl cclipfcs with a tolerable degree of exatflnefs. To aflrological learning they arc alfo great pretenders, entertaining the mofl fupeillitious credulity in favour of prediiHions of that nature. I'heir year is divided into three hundred and fixtyfive days) every day into thirty pays or parts, and the night into the fame mimber. Having neither clock nor diajj, they meafure time by means of a fniall copper vtflU with a hole in the bottom, which being placed in a tub of water, i: filled in the fpace of a day, when it finki and determines the period. It is then im- mediately emptied for the purpofe of renewing the prorefs. The chief manufaflure of the country is callico, or cotton cloth. They alto make brafs, copper, and earthen vefltls, fwords, knives, and the implements of various tr.-idcs, with goldl'inilh's woik aiui fire-arms. Even painting and carving arc faiJ to be executed with a degree of dexterity and tartc, beyond what might l.c cxpedlcd among a people where the flatc of ci\ ilizatii n moor's teeth, which ferve inOcad of fmall money on th? Indian continent. Tliule iflandt abound in filh, but with rice they are fupplied from the Hither India. They are all governed by one king) and the inhabi- tanii, who are defccndcd from the Arabs, retain the religion anJ cuitoms of their inoth<:r-c(iuntry. Bcfure wc leave the InJian Ocean, it may not be im< proper to fuhjoin the learned Dr. Edmund Halley's account of the winds that blow in that part of the world, whether the conftant trade-winds, or thofc which are peiioJIc.il, and gu under the name of mon- foor.. I'he following is the information he ijives oa this fubj.'<.'l, which he appears to have collected with great pains and indullry. " In the Indian Ocean, the winds arc partly general, as in the /lithiopic (pnt of the Atlantic Ocean) partly periodical, that n, half the year ihcy blow one way, and the oth' al' ycai upon the oppoli e points) and thcfe point' .ues of lliifting arc dif- ferent in different pni ,,,e ocian. The limits of each traiSt of fca, iji- . .1 to the lame change or mon- foon, as t'^ nativLM call it, are ccrt.iinly very hard to determine) 1' Ww diligiiice I have ul'ed to be lightly informed, ai . «i e care I h.ive t.ikcn therein, has in a great incafu. turmuunlcd that dllTicuky) and I ant p:i funded, tli u the (allowing particulars may be re- lied upon. That between the l.^.titiule of 10 and 30 degrees fouth, bi-twetn Madagafcar and New Holland, the general trade-wind about the fuiiih-eaft and by caff, is found to blow all the year long to all intents and purpofcs, after the fame manner as in the fame latitude in E)s, however, are extremely troublefome as in other hot countries; but no fpecies is more deftrudive than the ants, which march here in large bodies, confuming the fruits of the earth, as well as the manufadlures of the inhabi- tants with incredible havock, Tonquin is divided into eight provinces, in which there are feveral towns. The capital city is Cachao or Keccio, fituate on an omij>c:iice, about a hundred miles up the river Domea, in 105 degrees of eaft lon- gitude, and 21 degrees 30 minutes north latitude. It is not defended either by a wall or moat, but contains about twenty thoufand hotifes, which, a few excepted, built of brick, are only mean cottages. The ftreets are wide, but ill paved, and in the dry feafon the air N i, so H MODERN [Asia. is much contaminated by oITcnrive exhalations from muddy ponds. The king's palace Hands in the middle of the city, which, including the parks and gardens, IS computed to be cij^ht miles in circumference. At a fmall diftancc fioni the royal palace is another meanly built, in which the chona or general rcfidcs, Before it is a large parade, for cxercifiiig the foldicrs, and a houfe which ferves as an arfenal, containing fifty or fixty iron guns, and fume mortars. Near the parade, there is likcwifc a liable of war elephants, and another of the king's horfes. The town of Domea Is fituate about fixtcen or eighteen miles up the river of the fame name. Here the Dutch veflcls which trade to thio country have their ftation; but the Englifti ride three miles higher. Oil the fame river, about wghty miles from the fea, ftands Hean, which confifts of near two thoufand houfcs, and is furnifhed with a garrifon of foldiers, At this place the Chinefo have faiStors, who carry on a trade with Japan. Befides thcfe .ities, there is a great number of villages in the flat country, fur- rounded with walls and banks of earth, to defend them againft the annual floods. The natives are of a middle flature, and tawny com- plexion, with long black hair falling down on their Ihouldcrs, black eyes, and their teeth dyed of the feme colour. After the manner of the Chincfc, they wear the nail on the little finder of the ' left hand as Jong as the finger. They are reputed to be more honed in their dealings than the people laft mentioned, and are good mechanics. In this country the fexes are hardly diftinguifhed by their drcfj. , The ufual habit is a gown girt about ground, in the attitude of the mod hunibic fuppli- cation. People of figure, however, feldom come to the pngo'Ia, but perform their devotions in a part af their own houfcs, appropriated to that ufe, where one of their doniefticks ofKciales inftead of the piieft. In the written forms of prayer prefented on thofe occa- fions, the ufual mode is to enumerate feveral indances of good fortune, for which the petitioner returns thanks to Heaven, and concludes wi, . intreating a continuance of its favour through life. When the paper has been read, it is burnt in a pan of inccnfc, and the poor neighbours and dependants are called in, to partake of the entertainment which the mailer has provided for them; the praiSlIcc of this hofpftality being ronfidcrcd as of no fmall confcquincc towards procuring an aufpicious regard to the prayers whicf> have been offered. Supcrftiiion Is uiiivcrfally predominant among the people of this country. They never undertake any thing of momrnt, without confulting an allrologer j and have likewife their lucky and unlucky days. Every hour of thj diurnal revolution is diffin^uiflicd by the name of fome animal, as the horfc, the lion, &;. and the heart which marks the hour of a man's birth, is ever avoided by him. A plurality of women is allowed here, as In moft other pagan countries, and very little difference is. made between a wife and a concubine. The chiUreri of both arc equally entitled to a diviflon of the paternal inheritance. So far are the men from being fcrupulous in refpoE^ to the fidelity of their females, that they will frequently, for a trifling confideration, indulge the European merchants with the freeft accefs to their bed'. with a falh. Petfons of condition wear either Englifli The Dutch who trade to the country are allowed the cloth or fiik of their own manufadlurc. but the com- mon people ufe cotton or callico. All ranks, how- ever, univerfally wear drawers of cotton, which reach down below their knees. Their caps, which refemble the Clown of a hat, are made of the fame materials with the gown. The language of Tonquin Is a diafeil of the Chinefe, to which nitlon this country had formerly appertained as a province. The fame characters are likewife common to both; and their learning con- fining chiefly in the knowledge of thofe rudiments of writing, they are examined with rcfpeft to their pro- ficiency In it, when they flai;J candidates for any oflicc. In mathematics, aftronomy, and other fci- tnces, they appear to be upon ilic level with their neighbours bcfure mentioned; from whom they alfo dirtVr hut litilc in point of religion. The name of Coiifutius is here held in equal veneration as in China, but the natives pay adoration to fome Images unknown in that empire, particularly the elephant and the horfe. Their temples and pagodas arc frequently fo fmall, as hardly to contain a larger fpace than Is nc- ceffary to accommodate the Idol, Around thofe build- ings are fituate the cells of the priefls, who attend to offer up the prayers of fuch as refort hither for devo tion. The petition beirg delivered in writing, it is read aloud by the priert before the idol, while the pcrfon by whom it is prefented lies prcflrate on the fl \ ufe of temporary wives, to tranfaiSt their bufinefs in their abfcncc; by which commerce thofe women fome- timcs acquire great fortunes, and afterwards marry the moft confidcralile men In the kingdom. The men are permitted to divorce their wives upoi» the moft trifling pretext, but they are obliged to reftore the effcfts of which (he was pcfTeffcd at the time of marriage, and likewife to maintain the children. The fame indulgence, however, is not allowed to the other party; for a wife cannot be repudiated fr< ,i ' er huf- band, unlefs he is charged with fome very atrocious Clime, The punifhment of a woman convlftcd of adultery. Is to be thrown to an elephant, who taking her up with his trunk, toffcs her In the air, and when fhc falls, tramples her under his feet, and crufhes her to pieces; the animal being bred up for the purpofe of fueh executions. A man may fell both his wife and children In Ton- quin, which not only faves him the trouble of a di- vorce, but the burdcnfome eonfequence attending it. This prafticc, however, Is not very common frcmntio- tives of refentmcnt or paflion, though, in times of fear- city, poor people make no fcruple of felling their childre,-) to any purchafcr, or even of transferring them, without receiving the fmalleff confideration. The funerals in this country neatly refemble thofe of the Chinefe, in rcfpeil of the pruccflion and mourning; only here they burn tbe corpfe, and dcpofite the afbes [A SIA. mod humbFe fuppli- ver, fcldom come to :votions in a part af (hat ufc, where one ad of the piiift. !» ntcd on thofc occu- :rate fcvcral inrtances : petitioner returns es wi'.'i intreating a jh life. When the in a pan of incenfc, ndants are called in, *'liich the mafter has ' of this hofpftality con fcq II I nee towards s the prayers which lomlnant among the levcr undertake any Itinj an allrologcr ; tiluckydays. Every diffinguiflied by the 3rfe, the lion, &c. jr u( a man's birth, cd here, as in moft little difference is inc. The children iaon of the paternal om being fcrupulous nales, that they will ation, indulge the accefs to their bcj. ry are allowed the their bufinefs in thofe women fome- ^terwards marry ths m. their wives upon obliged to reftore f^cd at the time of he children. The lowed to the other ited fn ,1 ' er huf- >rne very atrocious )man conviftcd of hant, who taking the air, and when :, and cruflies her for the purpufc of children in Ton- ' trouble of a di- ncc attending it. ommon fronrmo- r in times of fcar- of felling their transferring them, ration. ■ rcfemble thofe of n and mourning; ilcpoftts the afbcs ilk Cochin-China, &c.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. P in an urn. Over the tombs of people of condition, they ereiS a wooden tower, four or five and twenty foot high, and the prieft afcending to the top of it, makes a funeral oration in praife of the deceaftd. This being concluded, he comes down, and fets fire to the ftrufture; and the people who attend the cere- mony are entertained on the fpot, with a feaft provided for the occafion. When a king dies, the royal corpfe lies in flate fixty- five days, and during this time his table continues to be fervcd as when he was alive; the meat being diftri butcd every evening among the priefts and poor people. A fpleiidid proccffioji is then begun towards 4he bury- ing place of his anccflors, which is about two days journey from Cachao: but they feldom reach the tomb in Icfs than fevcntecn days. The great officers and magiftrates are obliged to mourn three years on the occafion, the gentry fix months, and the common people three; and no public diverfions are permitted for three years after the funeral. Notwithftanding the great refpeil which is paid to the king or boua, after his death, he enjoys little more in his life-time than a titular dignity. The perfon inverted with the power of the ftate is the ge- neral, who makes the king a kind of prifoner in his own palace, permitting him only to appear in public at certain times, and receive the homage of his fubjciSs. To qualify in fomc meafurc this ufurpation, the general affciSls aii air of the moft dutiful obfequi- oufnefs and awe, declaring that he aflumes the reins of government with no other view than to eafe his fovcreign of the trouble, and afford him leifurc to enjoy his pleafures without interruption. This officer has the entire Jifpofal of all places, civil and military, even thofe of his majefty's houftiold, whofe fervants he prohibits from fuftering any fubjcil to have accefs to the king. The general's guard confifts of two hundred elephants, befidcs horfe and foot. He ufually keeps in the neighbourhood of the capital a Handing army of thirty thoufand men ; and in other parts of the king- dom, efpecially the frontiers of China, about fixty or feventy thoufand. When the troops march, the principal officers are mounted on elephants, a large apartment, made of timber being ereflcd on the back of this huge animal, for their accommodation. There is no naval force in the kingdom, except a few infignificant veflels, which never venture to proceed far from the coad. The chief magiftrates and officers of ftate are gene- rally eunuchs, who revenge by their avarice the opera- tion they had fuftcred in their infancy. Though in- capable of having any offspring, and debarred from the privilege of all teftamentary difpofitions, they are fo extremely oppreffive to the lower clafles of the people, as hardly to permit them the enjoyment of the nccclVaries of life. Whatever thofe tyrants have amallcd by their rapacioufnefs, becomes at their death the property of the governor in whofe diftricft they had lived, who confidcring them as inflruments of his own aggrandizement, never fails to connive at their extor- tion, for which he is alfo occafionally gratified with a fhare of the fpcil. Ths commercial articles of this country are chiefly filk, and lacquered ware; with turpentine, fine per- fumes, lignum aloes, and wood for dying, much like logwood: but the trade of the country is not ex- tcnfive, 1 ! . CHAP. Xlli. 0/ Ccchin-China, S'ftn, Pe^ii, Ava, and Airacan. /^OCHIN-CHINA, including Triampa, is ^^ fituate between J04 and no degrees of eaft longitude, and between 10 and 17 degrees of north latitude. It is bounded by Tonquin on the north, by the Indian Ocean on the eaft and fouth, and by Camboia on the weft; being about four hundred miles long, and a hundred and fifty broad. The mountains of Kemois run the whole length of it from north to fouth, dividing it from Camboia ; but in the other parts, the country is generally level. Though it lies nearer the equator than Tonquin, the tempera- ture of the air is not fohot; for which feveral reafons may be affigncd. In the firft place, this country is more advantageoufly fituate, being cooled by breezes from the ocean. In the fccond place, it is obferved, that the regions wliich extend towards the tropics, as the kingdom of Tonquin, are much hotter than thofe which are fiiuatcd near the equator; the fun being vertical in the former almoft three months, but in the latter a much fhorter time. In the third place, the days are an hour and half longer at the tropics than at the cquinodial, at the fame time that the rains and cloudy weather are of ftiurter duration. From the account of different travellers, it does not appear that there is any confiderable town in the whole country. We are informed, however, that the king refides in the moft northern province, and at a town called Touran-Fairo, fituate in 16 degrees of north latitude, and 106 degrees of eaft longitude. They build their houfes in this country chiefly with the bamboo cane, and one ftory high ; but during the whole time of the periodical flood, which lafts near half the year, they can live only in the upper apartments, and have no communication with their neighbourhood but by means of boats. In their perfons and habits, the natives of Cochin^ China differ little from ihofu of Tonquin; but their complexions are generally more dark, and their teeth remarkably bad, occafioncd by the corrofive nature of the materials with which they die them black, and their exccfiive chewing of betel and arek. I M. Siam, in which is comprehended Malacca, Camboia, and Laos is fituate between 97 and 107 degrees of eaft longitude, and between i and 25 degrees of north latitude; being bounded by Acham and a province of China on the north; by Tonquin, Cochin-China, and the Bay of Siam, on the eaft; by the Straits of Malacca and Sincapora, on the fouth; and by the Bay of Bengal, Pegu, and Ava, on the weft. It extends 52 THE M R N [Ajia. in length about fifteen bundled miles, and it» greateft breadth is three hundred. There are two ridges of mountains that run through the country from north to fauth, which conduce to moderate the heat of the air in the adjacent parts, and the fame eiFe£t is produced by the fea-breezes, in the territory contiguous to the coaft; but the vallics which lie beyond the influence of either of thofc falutary caufes, are exceflivc hot, and would be almod unin- habitable were it not for the annual rains, by which the torrid ftate of the atmofphere is confiderably quali* fied. The monfoons, or periodical winds and rains, prevail here as well as in the Hither India, and the latter are heaviefl about Midfummer. The faircA fca- ibn is in December, when the fun is at the greatcft diftance from them, and the nioft flormy weather at Ihe Shifting of the monfoons, which ufually happens about the equinoxes, or within a month before or after thofe periods ; at each of which fcafons the ihipping gets into harbour, to avoid the danger of being de- llroyed. The two principal rivers arc the Menan and the Mecon, which life in the mountains of Tartary, and run to the fouth ; the former paffing by the city of Siam, falls into the bay of the fame name, in 13 de- grees of north latitude; and the latter running through Laos and Camboia, difchargcs itfclf in the Indian ocean, in 9 degrees of north latitude. The capital of the country is Siam, called by the natives Siyothoya, fituate in loi degrees of call lon- gitude, and in r ■ degrees of north latitude, being al- moft enconipaJTed by the branches of the river Menan, It is about ten miles in circumference, within the wall, but not a fixth part of the ground is occupied by buildings. In the vacant fpaces there are near three hundred pagodas or temples, round which are fcattered the convents of the prieils, and their burying places. The flrccts of the city are fpacious, and fome have canals running through them, over which is a great number of bridges. The houfcs fland on pillars of the bamboo cane, and are built of ihc fame materials; the communication between different families, during the winter feafon, being carried on, as in other tro- pical countries, by means of boats. The grounds belonging to the feveral tenements are feparated by a palifado, within which the cattle are houfed in barns, ereftcd lilcewife upon p'llars, to prcferve them from the annual inundation. The royal palace at Siam is cncompaflcd by three walls, with intervening courts or fpaces of confider- ablc extent. The innermoft court, in which the king rcfidcs, is called the vang, and is furnifhcd with fpa- cious gardens, groves, and pieces of water. Whoever pafles in or out of this boundary, falls down on his face before the gate; but none is permitted entrance who is armed, or has lately drank any arrack or fpi- rituous liquor; of which the officer of the guard muft judge, by fmelling the pcrfon's breath. There are fcvcn floors in the royal palace, and generally three in the houfcs of people of didindlion; but the dwellings of the other inhabitants confifl for the molt part of a fingle ftory. The furniture of the houfcs in this country is ex- tremely fimplc, there being neither btds, chairs, nor tables. The people of the greateft figure lie on mat- tralTcs fpread on couches, with a (licet under them, and covered with a quilt or piece of callico-, tho poorer fort ufing only a nut on the floor, and their upper garment as a covering. The Siamcfe are of a middle flatuie, well proprr» tioned, and very fwarthy. Their faces are broad, and they have high check bones ; but their foreheads and chins are contraflcd, and terminate in a point. They have fmall black eyes, large mouths, and thick pals lips. Like their Indian neiglibours, they carefully dye their teeth bhick, and have a vanity in wearini^ the nails of fome of their fingers of extraordin-iry length ; thofe being confidcrcd, as the perfonal marks which diftinguifli people of condition from the vulgar. Their hair, which is generally black, is worn fo Ihort by both fexcs, that it does not come below their ears ; but the women for the moft part make it ftand upright on their foreheads. It is the cuftom of the men to pull their beards by the roots. Before they go out, they either bathe, or have water pcured upon their heads for the fpace of an hour. Men of the rank above the vjlgar we.'r a callico or muflin fliirt, with a piece of cotton I nen, called a payne, about their loins, and in the rainy fcafun a mantle of chint, or painted c.illico. The king is habited in a veft of brocaded fattin, and wears a cap of a pyramidical form, with a coronet of precious ftoncs about hi? temples. The great ofliccrs and nobility have alfo coronets, but of inferior value. In time of war, and during the exercife of hunting, their cloaths are generally red. No fubjciSl is permitted to wear a veft, without a fpecial licence from the king; ncithe;- can a cap be worn, except in his m.ijefty's prefencc, or when the pcrfon prefides in a court of jufticc. Slippers are fometimes ufcd, but always taken oft" at en- tering either the temples or houfes. The women wear a linen cloth about their loins, which on thofc of fuperior rank reach down almoft to the knee, and fervcs inftead of a petticoat. They cover their necks with a loofe piece of linen, which likewife fpreads over their breafts. A cap makes no part of the female drefs; but they adorn thcmfclves with bracelets on their a.ms and legs, and as many rings on three fingers of each hand as they can put on. The Siamefe are efteemed an ingenious people, at,d though rather indolent th 1 ailive in difpofition, thejr are not addiCicd to the voluptuous vices which ofte-n accompany a ftate jieafj; being remarkably chafte and tempera'.e, and even holding drunkennefs in ab- horrence. They are, however, accounted infolent towards their inferior'., and equally obfequious to thofe above them ; the latter of which qualities appears to be particularly inculcated from 'hei.- earlieft youth. In general, their behavioui is extremely modeft, and they are averfe to loqua.:l:y. Like the Chinefe, they avoid fpeaking in the 'irft perfon, and wh^.- they addrefs a lady, it is alw.'^ys with fome refpeftful epi- thet, infinuating perfonal accoriipliihmcnts. The (Asia. this country ii ex- ler bfds, chairs, nor :ft figure lie on mat- 1 flicct under them, if callicoj tlio poorei- jor, and their upper atuie, well proptr- faces are broad, and their foreheads and :c in a point. They uths, and thick pale 3urs, they carefully a vanity in wearinij ;rs of extraordinary 3 the perfonni marks on from the vulgar. -k, is worn fo fhort rie below their cars j lake it ftand upright rtom of the men to Before ihcy go our, pcured upon their ar we.'r a callico or ton I nen, called a thp rainy fcafon a ico. The king is I, and wears a cap ct of precious ftones fliccrs and nobility value. In time of nting, their cloaths jcrmittcd to wear a 1 the king 5 neiths;- m.ijcfty's prefencc, court of juftice. ays taken oft" at en- about their loins, h down almoft to petticoat. They e of linen, which A cap makes no adorn themfelves •gs, and as many and as they can tiious people, ai.J 1 difpofition, they vices which often remarkably chafte runkennefs in ab- counted infolent bfcquious to thofe alities appears to .■ earlieft youth, nely niodeft, and ke the Chineff, and wh^.: they le refpciStful cpi- ments. The SlAM.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. ^3 The common form of falutation here, as in moft Indian nations, is the falem, or the lifting one or both hands to the head, and inclining the body; but to a perfon of much fuperior rank, it is the cuflom to fall proftrate on the face. When in a recumbent ftate, the ufual pofturc is to fit on their heels, with their heads a little reclined. The ceremonies uftd at vifits are nearly the fame as in China. The general food in this country is rice and fifli, iomctimcs frefli, but more frequently dried or pickled, and feldom eat before it is (linking. The flefli of all animals is likewife i^fcd without diflinflion, even that of the vileft reptiles, as among the Chinefe; but every thing is fo highly feafoi.ed with fpice, that the tafte of the fevcr^il diflies is almod uniformly the fame. The common drink is water, or tea, which is ufed by all the inhabitants. Among their public diverfions is a ri:de fort of co- medy, and a martial dance, in performing the latter of which, being maflccd and armed, they counterfeit a battle, at the fame time reciting in fongs the heroic atchievements of their anceftors. Mock fights of ele- phants are alfo frequently exhibited, as cock-fighting hail formerly been, till an order was procured againft it by the prieftj, who confidercd it as a criminal enter- tainment. Here arc likewife rowing matches on the rivers, and races, not of horfes but oxen. To games of chance the people are as much addifled as the Chinefe; playing away not only their wives and children, but venturing their own perfons and liberties on the tafl of a die. A feftiva! is kept annually when the waters retire; on which occafion they fail on the rivcis feveral evenings fucceflivcly, their barges being illnminatcd with painted paper-Ianthorns. Another fcftival is kept after harveft, as a thankfgiving for the fruits o.'^ the earth; when the ilreets as well as the boats are illuminated, and a grand fire>work is played oif. I'hey admit no diverfions at the new and full moon, but keep a drift faft, making offerings to the priefts in their convents, and giving alms to the poor. The vegetable produce of the country is chiefly rice, with feme wheat, and European fruits, but modly tliofc of the tropical climates. The hills are covered with good timber, of which the moft valuable for domcftic ufc is the bamboo. The cotton-tree is alfo very common. It bears a fruit of the fize of a wr.lnut, which opens when ripe, and contains within it the cotton. There is no country in which elephants abound more than in Siam, or where they are held in greater veneration; the Siamefe being of opinion that they arc anim.Ttcd by illuftrious fouls. The longevity of thi-. nnimal is proportioned to its enormous bulk; for it is fuppofed to be a hundred years old before it attains its f'.ill growth. Being both too ftrong and unwieldy tn be governed by force, it is managed entirely by liins, in the apprehending of which it is faid to be r>itrcniely docile and quick. There are here but few hc'ifi's, fiiecp, or goats, and thofe of an indifferent qiulity, as well as their venifon; the flefh of the hogs being the btft of their animal provifion. Oxen and No. 5. buffaloes arc ufed in their ploughs and carringcs. Poultry and wild-fowl arc in great plenty, but their flcflj is generally dry. Of finging birds there is none; but there are fome macaws, parrots, and other birds of beautiful plumage, which are fo tame, by never be- ing molefted by the natives, that they will often coine into the houfes. No man in this country learns any particular trade, but has a general knowledge of all that arc commonly praftifed, and every one works fix months for the king by rotation; at which time, if he fliould be found perfcflly ignorant of the bufincfs he is fet about, he is doomed to fuffer the baftinado. The confequence of this burdenfome fervicc is, that no man en- deavours to excel in his bufincfs, left he fliould be obliged to praflifc it as long as he lives, for the be- nefit of the crown. The government of this country is extremely op- preffive, the king being not only fovcreign, but pro- [ 'ietor of all the lands, and chief merchant likewife; by which means he monopolizes iilmofi the whole trafHc, to the great prejudice of his fubjefts. The crown is faid to be hereditary, but it is often traiif- fcrrcd by revolutions, on account of the exorbitant abufe of power in thofe who exercifc the royal office. In his palace, the king is attended by women, who not only prepare his food, and wait on him at tabic, but even perform the part of valtts, and put on all his cloaths, except his cap, which is confidcri'd as too facred to be touched by any hand but his own. Hs (hews himfcif to the people only twice a year, when he diflributes his alms to the t.ilapoins or pricfts; and on thofe occafions, he always appears in an elevated fituation, or mounted on the back of an elephant. When he takes the diverfion of hunting, he is, as ufual, attended by hia women on foot, preceded by a guard of two hundred men, who drive all the people from the roads through which they are to pafs; and when the king flops, all his attendants fall upon their faces on the ground. The king's favourite wife is ftyled queen, who is generally one of his ncarcft relations; and fo much is proximity of blood confidercd as a title to this honour, that not many years fince, the royal confort was the king's own daughter by his fifter. The governors of the provinces are generally ap- pointed by the crown every three years, and knowing th^t the duiation of their o(£ces is lirr.ited, they never fail to e^ercife it with great rapacity. In the province of Patan, however, the people eleiSt their own gover- nor, «nd for the moft part make choice- of an old woman, who is called queen, but is obliged '.o have the concurrence of the chief men, in all tranfattions of importance. As an acknowledgement of hir fupc- riority, (he fends annually to the king, two fniall trees of gold and filver. By the laws of Siam, fubmiflion to parents and governors is as ftrid" enjoined ..s in China, and pirticular reverence is always fliewn to the aged. Lying is held in fo great deteftation, that it is branded with the fame infamy as perjury in this part of the world; and a perfon who has been guilty of theft is O aban- 5+ H M D E P. N [AtlA. Pe abandoned by his neareft rcI»tion3. No man is fuf- fered to profccutc another, cither in a civil or ciiminal c^ufe, without giving fccur ty to make the charge good ; and every judicial procefs is managed by the parties themfelves, or their relations, no fuch profcf- fion as that of a lawyer being allowed. In doubtful cafes, the juftice of a caufe it deter'^incd by the fame fuperftitio is methods which were formerly ptaflifed by our Britilh ancedors. Botb 'h: ^r'-fccutor anl the defendant are fnmetimes commanded to ..alk over burning coals, and he that efcapes this ordeal with impunity, is held to have thi- right oii nis fide. Another method is by diving into deep water, on which occafion the vcrdi(St is given in favour of the perfon, who continues immerfed the longed time, A third mode of trial is conduced by vomits. The pricft adminifters to each of the parties a pill, which 19 fuppofed to confift of materials of an emetic quality; and the teftimony of the perfon who retains the pill without vomiting, is conftdered at unqueftionably true. Sometimes both the plaintiiF and defendant are thrown to a tyger, when the caufe is likewife decided by the fuperior good fortune of either of the cowtend- ing parties. The methods of punifliing criminals ar« no lefs fev«re in feveral cafes, than thofe of judicial determi- nation. The convifls are fometimes thrown to an elephant, and trampled to death. A peifon who has robbed the public, has melted metals poured down his throat; and he who has been proved guilty of lying, is doomed to perifh by having his mouth fewed up. For lefs atrocious crimes, they fallen a fquare board about the offender's neck. Some are fet in the ground up to the ihouldcrs, and every perfon is at liberty to buffet him ; a mode of punifliment which is confidered as extremely ignominious. It is not uncommon for fuperior officers to be punished for the tranfgreffion of their inferiors ; and parents and mafters of families are amenable for thofe of their children or dependents. The military force of Siani coiififts chiefly of militia, £rom which fervice, on extraordinary occafions, except the priefls, no man who can bear arms is exempted. The king has likewife a battalion of guards, amounting to twelve hundred men, woo ate infiru£icd in Euro- pean difcipJine. The inhabitants of this country maintain the doc- . trine of tranfmigration, believing in a pre-exiftcnt fiate, and that they fhall pafs into other bodies, till they arc fufficiently purified to be received into para- 4'tfc. Tkey believe likewife that the foul is material, but not I'ulijcdt to the touch ; that it retains the human £gure, after quitting a body of that fpecies ; aiid that when it appears to perfbns with whom it was ac- quainted, -which they fuppofc it to do, the wounds of cnc that has been i lurdcrcd, will then be vifible. They ate of cpJiiion, that no m.-in will be eternally punlHicd; that the good, alter feveral traufmigrations, will enjoy perpetual happinels ; but that thofe who are not reformed, will be doomed tu tranfmigracion to all furiiity. They bcUeve iu tbv cxiftcnce of a Supreme Beiog, but the ubjeSs oi theic adoraxioii are departed : Pi; ' faints, whom they confider as mediators or interceflbrs for them ; and to the honcur of tbi< numerous tribe, boch temples and image; are ereiSlcd. The talapoins or prielli have their re/Uence conti- guous to the temples, adjoining to which are likewife the cells of the talapoinefles, or females who devote themfelves to the fervice of religion. The latter, however, are not admitted into thifc convents till the decline of life, and even then they are ac liberty to forfake their retirement when they pleafc. The talapoins vow celibacy, and lead very auflere lives, the ii'inifhment for the tranfgrcflion of their rules being no lefs than burning. However fevere this penalty, it is faid to be rignroully inflided by the king, wlih a view of retraining too many of his fub- j.-i.; from embracing the faceruot.il life, to which they might otherwife be inclined, on account of the im- munities attending it; the priefts being obliged to pay- no duties, and contributing nothing to the defence or fupport of the ftate. They are not, however, en- titled to any fixed emoluments, except glebes, to cul- tivate which they arc allowed flavcs ;. nor enjoy « flipend in confequencc of their o/Kce, but profit largely by the .ilms of the people, in the manner of begging friars. On this eflablifhment, they are vc.y hofpi» table to Grangers, Chriflians as well as others, and have accommodations for them adjoining to their own. The priefts preach every new and full moon, and during the inundation, every day, from morning t» evening, fitting crofs-lcgged on a raifed floor, and relieving one another in rotation ; at which times they often experience great liberality from the people. At certain feafons, efpecially after harvef}, they are obliged to watch as well as pray, and their vigils are kept iit the fields, in the night. They fliavc their heads, beards and eyebrows, and carry in their hands a tala- pat, or broad leaf, which ferves them for an umbrella. The fuperior (haves himfelf, becaufe no other is reck- oned worthy to touch his hei»d. Among the reft, the elder always (have the younger, except in cafe of great age, when the latter are permitted to have the honour of exercifing the employment on thofe who are more advanced in years. They wear a yeUow cloth about their loins, and another about their (houldcrs. They perform ablution in tlie morning, as foon as they can fee, in doing which they are extremely care- ful not to deftroy an infeft. They next proceed to the temple, where they fing their devotions, fitting in a recumbent pofture; but on entering and coming out of thofe places of public worfliip, both the priefirand people profirate themfelves three times before their idols. After this ceremony, they ^o to the towns and villages, where they place themleh?s at the doors of thofe whom they know to be the i.iofl liberal, and wait in expeftation of their alms. It being criminal in the talapoins to touch money, they take care to be prudently accommodated with fervancs, in whom it is accounted no fault to accept of pecuniary donations. The moral duties required of the talapoins, are, that they do not kill, (leal, commit unclcanncfs, drink ftrong liquor, or tell lies. The firfl of thofe injunflions is underflood in fuch a latitude, as extendi to to but cat life var boi to ca< thi be uf< th( Pegu, Ava, &c.] to the prohibition not only to the deftroying animals, but vegetables, and even the feed of this clafs. They cat, however, of the fruit, which does not affeft the life, and contrive means to evade the precepts in various ways. For, though they do not thcmfclvcs boil rice, as being a feed, and therefore expofing them to the penalty of murder, yet if others boil it, they clleem the eating of it innocent. In ihe fame manner, though they affirm thi making water on the earth to be a fin, as tending to corrupt it, yet if they make ufe of a vefiel, and their f^rvant pours it on the earth, they think thcmfel.es , it anfwcrablc or the cnme. Befides the injundtioni above mentioned, there arc feveral others peculiar to the order of prieftsj fuch as the avoiding all public diverfions, making ufe of per- fumes, touching gold or filvcr, wearing ihoes, or fine cloaths, and being carried in any fort of vehicle. Amidft all their prolcflion of fcvcrity and abftinence, they are reckoned extremely proud, taking place of the laity on every occafion, and not deigning a falu- tation to any but a brother talapoin. The men of this country are allowed a plurality of women, but excepting one, who is a wife by contrail, the others are only concubines, and their children deemed incapable of any legal inheritance. Previous to every nuptial contrail, an aftrologer muft be con- fulted, who calculates the nativity of the parties, and determines, whether their union is likely to prove for- tunate, or othcrwife. When his prognoftication is favourable, the bver is permitted to vifit his miflrefs three times, at the li.1 of which interviews, the rela- tions being prefent, the marriage portion is pjiJ, when, without any religious ceremony performed, the nuptials are reckoned complete, and foon after confummated. A i^v^ days after, the taLpoin vifits the m.irried couple, fprinkles them with water, and repeats a prayer for their ptofperity. The Siamcfe wives are reputed to be extremely chaOe, and fo induniious, that they often maintain ibcii families by their labour, during th« abfence of their hufbands in the king's fervice, which is always the half of the year. Divorces, however, are allowed, though thejp feldom happen, on vsliich occafions the man returns the wife's fortune, and the children are divided between them. The praflice in Siam refpciling funerals is both to burn and bury the dead. The corpfe being laid upon the pile, it is fuftercd to burn, till a confiderable part ij confumed, when the remainder is interred in a bury- ing place, contiguous to fome temple. The reafon which they give for not burning it entirely to afhes is, that they fuppofc the deceafed to be happy, when part of his remains efcapes the fire. Inftead of a tomb- ftone, ilicjr II eA a pyramid over the grave. It for- merly WKi the cudom to bury treafurc with the corpfe; but loMircr experience evincing, that the facrilegious light ill which robbing the graves was confidered, did not prcrcnt the crime, ths/ now difi uniiniic the ancient praflice, and infleail bH tltnliili-, bury only |n)inicd pipers, and uthci tiiflcb. in lliis ermntry two liiii|UHgC8 are fpoken, namely, tht tiilf Mill the Hmmclt, 'I h« fmin*t h»t thirty' GENERAL TRAVELLER. SS three letters, and the latter thirty-fcven, all confr.nants. The vowels, which are faid to be very numerous in both, arc certain charaflcrs, ranged fometin'es above the confonaiit, fomctimcs below, in partirular cafes before it, and in others after. In each of thefc tongues, the pronunciation depends much upon the tone of the voice, which is modulated in fuch a manic, that the people rather fing th^n fpcak, The Baly ii ufcd only by thofc who are accounted the learned; but this cha- ra(Sler feems to be unjudly applied to any of the nation, as they pretend to no fcicnce but that of aftrology, in which, the natives being extremely credulous, the country abounds with impoftors. The hiftory of S.am, before it was difcovered by the Portuguefe, is, like that of all the other Indian nations, involved in impenetrable darknefs. That it was known to the ancients, however, is highly pro- bable, though there feems to be no ground for con- cluding, that it is the country mentioned by the Greek and Roman geographers, under the name of the Aurea Cherfonefus, as gold is not i;s produce at thij day. Since the end of the fixtecnth century, the kingdom of Siam and that of Pc^u have of.en been engaged in war, and alternately conquered; but both nations having now abandoned the right of tribute, which they formerly exafled in confequencc of their re- fpeiSfive viilories, are at prefent independent of each other. The Portuguefe continued mafters of the coafts of Siam, from the year 1511, to the year 1640, when they were expelled by the Dutch, who have ever fince excluded all other foreign nations from the country, which is now confidered as in cfTeiSl cniirely fubjc<£l to their conlroul. Of PEGU, AVA, and ARRACAN. Thcfe kingdoms are fituate between 92 and 100 degrees of eaft longitude, and between 16 and 22 degrees of north latitude ; bounded on the north by Tipra and Acham, on the eaft by Laos, on the fouth by Siam, and on the weft by the Bay of Bengal. On account of their fituation between the tropics, the air in the valleys is exceffivehot; but it is generally qua- lified by breezes, which blow from the fca during a confiderable part of the day. The produce of thofe countries is rice, fugar-canes, furs, fkins, falt-pctrc, mangoes, tamarinds, cocoa- nuts, and other tropical fruits ; with rubies, fapphires, and the fame forts of animals as in Siam; from the inhabitants of which country, 'he natives of the three former feem to difl^er very little, either in their perfons or cuftoms, notwithftanding the many fables invented by travellers, of their worlhipping the devil, and other ridiculous ftorics. The fovereignty of thofc countries appears fo be extremely flufluating; I'lmctimes the three kingdoms have been united under one and the fame prince, while at other times, the power has been conlt/led, mid fuccc/Tively enjoyed hy each country. Amid thci/e inltrn;il dnifions, however, they have llitlierio reaped the hr.ppiiiefs of remaining unmolefted /fom abthul, being felJom vifited, even in the way of commerce, by the fulijtils of any maritime nation. INDIA, 56 THE M D R N [Asia. INDIA, orHINDOSTAN. CHAP. I. Of tin fituation—rivirs-^provlncti'-^fetlltminli, TNDIA Proper, or HinJodan, is ficiiate between ■^ 66 and 92 degrees of call longitude, and between 7 and 40 degrees of north latitude; being bounded on the north by Udicck and Tibet Tartary j on the eaft by Acham, Ava, and the Bay of Bengal ; on the fouth by tlie Indian Seaj and on the weft by the fame fca and Pcrfia ; extending about two bur, ' cd n 'les in length, and iirtecn hundred 'rcadth he broadcft part. The principal rivers are, !.U% G.i.".; • i, which rifes in Mount Caucafus, and, rini.'iHii'; I'ci-.;;.* iaft, di- vides into fcveral branches, that Ci . large th "''es into the Bay of Bengal ; the moft eafterly of tho.e bein,^ the limits between this country and the Farther India. Ill fo great eflcem is this celebrated river held by th: Indians, that they wofihip it as a god. 2. The Indus, a river as large as the preceding, and which, •were it not for the bar at the mouth, is fufficicntly deep to be navigable. It rifes lilcewifc in the mountains of Caucafus, and, running fouth-weft, falls into the Indian Ocean. 3. The Attock, or Hydafpcs of the ancients, ha:i its fource in the fame mountains as the Indus, with which, after running parallel .-ilmoft to the mouth, it unites, and the mixed ftream is dif- charncd into the Indian Sea. 4. The Jemmima, which runs fouthward by the cities of Delhi and Agra, and then turning eaftward, falls into the Ganges at Hallbas. 5. The Gurnga; this river rifes in the Bnligate Mountains, and running eaftward, difchargcs itfelf into the wcftern branch of the Ganges, near the Cay of Bengal. 6. The Chrirtcna, which rifing in the fame mountains wi'h the Gucnga, runs firft to the fouthward, and llicn turning to the eaft, falls into the Bay of Bengal. 7. The Tapte rifes lilcewifc in the Baligatc Mountains, and running wnftward to Surat, difchargcs there its waters in the Bay of Cam- baya. Bcfides ihofc, there arc many other rivers of in- ferior note, with innumerable torrents in the time of the rains, nioft of which are dried up in the fair fcafon. This extcnfive country may be diftinguifhed into thice great divifions; the firft comprehending thofe provinces %vhich lie north of the tropic of Cancer ; the IccgmJ, thofc that l!e under the tropic, or partly north, and partly foulh of it; and the third, thofe which lie fouth of the tropic, in the Hither Pcninfula. The firft of the divifions abovs-mcntioned compre- hends Cabul, Caflimete, Gor or Gourite, Haican, Attock, Penkab, Bankifti, Naugrecut, Multan, La- bor, Jangapour, Jamba, Buckor, the Hindoo's country, Delhi, Sambal, Mev.u, Patau, Tata or Sinda, Jef- felmeie, Afmer, or Bando, Agra, Gualaor, Halabas, I'atna. Jcfuat, Rajapour, Soref, Narvar, and Rotas, Tht provinces in the fccond dlvlfion aie, Guzura! or Cambaya, Chitor, Malva, and Bengal. Thofc which lie fouth of the tropic arc, C.indich, Bahar and Urixa, Di:can or Vinapour, Gulcouda, Bifnagar, Tanjuur, and Madura. After this enumeration of the provinces, we flialJ proceed to give an account of the maritime parts of the country, in which the European powers have now cftablifhed fo many fcttlemtiits; beginning at the pen- infula of Cambaya, and diredljng our courfe along the Malabar coaft, to Cape Coniorin, the foulhcrn extre- mity of India, In the province of Guzarat, at the bottom of the Gulph of Cambaya, lies Surat, the moft confiderablc port-town of trade In India. It is fituate In 72 deg. 25 min. eaft longitude, and 21 deg. 10 min. northi latitude, on the liver Tapte, ten miles eaft of the fea ; being about three miles in circumference, de- fended only by a flight wall, and fome antique fort!. The city and caftic were taken by the Englifti in 1 759; and the next year the latter was ceded, with the re- venues annexed, by the Great Mogul, to the Englilh Eaft India Company. Various European nations have here their faflors, and trade very largely; but the moft confiderable merchants are the Moors, Armenians, Banians, Arabs, and Jews. The city Is under tha jurifdi£lion of a governor, appointed by the Mogul, and who lives in great fplcndor; but notwithft.inding the almoft boundlefs extent of his autiiority, the re- fpert that is paid to him by the inhabitants is nearly equalled by the high cReem in which they hold the EngliOl prcfident, who maintains the ftate of a prince, and is ufually governor of liombny, and all the Englilh feltlements on the weft coaft of India, About a hundred and thirty miles fouth of Surat, lies the Ifland uf Bombay, twenty miles in circum- ference; the chief town of which Is a mile in length, meanly built, and defended by a fort at a little diftance. The inhabitant! are chiefly Britlfh, Portuguefe, and Indians, amounting to about fifty thoufand. This pl.ice is exceedingly well fituate for trade with th« I continent of India, and may be reckoned the principal Englifti fcttlcmcnt in the country. It is r'ttcndcd, however, with the difadvantage of being extremely un- hcahhful, though in this refpeft, it has been greatly improved by governor Bohun, who drained the adjacent bogs and fwamps, to which the infalubrity of the air had been principally owing. This fcttlcmcnt formerly belonged to the crown of Portugal, but was ceded to Charles the fecond, on his marriage with the Infanta Catherine, and by him prefcnted to the Englifti Eaft India Company, who have ever fincc been in poft'eflion of it. Bombay has an excellent harbour, but the foil of the ifland is barren, and the water bad, on which account they prefcrvc the rain-water in cifterns. On the fane coaft, in 15 deg. 31 min. north lati- tude, and 73 deg. 5 min. eaft longitude, is fituate Goa, an iiland of the river Mandoua, about eight mile India.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. mile* from the fca. This ifland ii about twenty four miles in circunifciciicc, atiJ rcilj^icd very hot and unhcnllhful by the liills, whiih cnclofu it nt a little diftance, on llic ncigbouriiig continent. The town, which is likcwifc named Gim, ii about two miles in length, and half a mile in brcailth, being the capital of the Porlugucfc fctlkments in Indi.i. It is not only fortified with walls and ramparts, but the whole illand is furrounded by a wall, badions, and other modern works i and for farther fecutity, the I'ortuguefc have even fortified the banks of the river from the very mouth, with redoubts and batteries of guns ; on which account it may be confideied as more impregnable than any other town of India. The buildings of this town arc of (lone, and very magnificent ; among which arc many convents and nunneries, the place abounding likcwifc in monks, and other popifli ccclcfiaftics, whofe feverity has rendered it unhappily celebrated fur all the horrors of the inquifition. To the archbifhop of Goa, the clergy in the Portugucfc towns and fettlc- mcnts in Afia, and the caft coaft of Africa, are fubjeiSl ; and the viceroy, who rcfidcs at this place, is fupreme governor of all the fcttlements of that nation, from the Cape of Good Hope to China, which are very numerous, Though the air of Goa is unhealthy, the ifl.Tnd is plcaf.int, and cfpccially on the fide towards the Tea, being f;ill of country- feats and villages, and well planted with all kinds of tropical fruits. Parting fevcral inferior fcitlcmcnis on the coafl of Malabar, belonging to illfTorent European nations, wo turn Cape Comorin, to take a furvcy of the princip..l of thofc on the coaft of Cctomandd. The fird place of note on this coaft, is the town of PonJlclierry, fituatc in 80 dcg. 32 min. caft longitude, and II deg. 57 min. north latitude. It is defended by a fortrefs, which was bcf.cgcd by admiral I3ofcawen, in September 1748, when the periodical r.iins, that fall annually at this feafon, obliged him to abandon the entcrprize. In the year 1761, however, after a blockade and fiege of fevcral months, it furrendcrcd at difcrctifn to colonel Coolc and admiral Stcp'.icns; but was reftorcd to the French by the peace of Sixty- three miles north of Pondichcrry, lies Madras a Patan, or the fort and town of St. George, the capital of the Knglilh (ettlcmcnts on the coaft of Coromandcl, and no Icfs healthful than pleafant in fituation. The town is diftinguifhcd into the White and Black ; the firft of which, with the adjoining fort, arc inhabited only by Englifh, and arc not above halt a mile in circumference, furrounded by a ftone wall, 'i'he outv/ard or Blaclc Town, which is now likewife furrounded by a wall, is in circumference about a mile and a half, inhabited by people of every Afiatic nation, fome of whom are very rich. In general, however, it confifls only of thatched cottages; but the White Tov.n is pretty well built with brick, the houfes flat-roofed, and the apartments lofty. In the latter is an elegant Englifli church, with another for the Piirtuguefe catholics ; and in the former there is an Armenian Chriftlan church, and fevcral pagodas or Indian temples. No. 5. The Englifli Eaft India Company purchafcd thi'j fettlement, with a finall territory adjacent, of the king of Golconda; but the Mogul afterwards makings conqueft of the country, claims a right to this, as well as the other towns of that kingdom. Mis generals therefore fomctimes vifit the fettlement, demanding a tribute from the governor, which he is obliged to com- ply with, for the fake of prcferving the communication with the country; where the Englifli purchafe calli. coes, chintzes, muflins, and fometimcs diamonds. The various commercial fettlcments of the Englifli Eaft India Company, as well as the ceded provinces of Bengal, Bahar, and Orifla, from which an immenfc revenue may be produced, are under the dired^ion of a governor-general and four counfellors, of the prefi- dency of Fort William in Bengal, in whom the whole civil and military government is vcfted. Their com- miflion continues five years from their arrival in India; but they may be removed at any time by the crown, on a charge of any mifhehav" prefented by the di- icrted by pillars. They fupply the place of inns, of which there is none in the country, and are nfurtcd to by travellers, who drcfs their provifion and fleep in them. The greatcft ftruiOures among the Indians arc their tanks or refervoirs, in which they colle£\ water during the rainy feafon, to ferve them the oilier part of the year. Some of thofc bafuns are very grand and extenfivc, being almoll half a miL' in circumference, lined w'nh hewn ftonc, and furniriied all round with fuveral row* of fteps. Not a few of them have fummer- houfes, ere£\ed on a mount in the middle, for the purpole of bathing I a privilege, which though delirable in a hoc climate, affords an inftance of the little delicacy of thofe by whom the piaclice is permitted. The water thus prefcrvcd, however, by being expofcd to the in» fluencc of the fun, is conftantly tepid, and thcrcfora much inferior, cither for drinking or bathing, to well- water; on which account, where the latter can be obtained, it is always preferred by the inhabitants. The houfes of the Moors, or Mahometans of India,' differ but little from thofe of the Pagan tribes, in re- fpedl of accommodation and form ; only their materials arc better, being cither (lone or biick, while the otheri, for the moft part, ufe nothing but thatcli and clay. The grandeft buildings of the Mahometans are their mofques and tombs, which are both cr^JlcJ of hewn ftone. The mofque is -n the form of an oblong fquare, fupported on one fide by pillars, the intervals of which fupply the placi of windows. Over the middle of the building ther; is ufually a dome or cu- pola, and at each corner a minaret or llcndcr tower. The tombs are generally placed in a grten field, planted with trees and flowers, and furniflied with artificial dudls or refervoirs of water. To have a magnificent tomb, is the great ambition of a M.iho- metan of figure, and he ufually begins to crec5l it at an early age, CHAP. III. 0/ tht air— ■winds— fiafons—fnl— 'and priduct. THE northern part of India, or that whicli lies between the latitude of thirty and forty degrees, is exceeding healthful and pleafanr, but the foutherly provinces are exccffivc hot in the fair feafon, efpccially during the months of April and May. At this time the rivers and waters are moftly dried up, and the wind blowing over a long track of burning find, is fatd to refemble the mouth of an oven in heat, from eight o'clock in the morning to eleven. In this country, the land and fea breezes fucceed each other alternately every twelve hours; the former prevailing from about midnight till towards noon, when the latter begins and continues till late in the evening. India.] GENERAL TRAVELLBR. 59 evening. During the prevalence cf the hot windi in the two monlhi above mentiontd, it is ufuil for the inhabitants to hang up wet cloths agaiiift the winil, ami to fprinkle water on the floors, not omitting to rcfrefli themfclvei by the fame application to their heads. In June the ufc of thofc means becomes unneccnary, the fun being then obfcurcd by the clouds, and the rainy feafon commencing, which eencrally continues four months, or till th-: end of OiHobcri not bcginnig and ending cxaiMy at the r.imc periods every year, but fcldom exceeding three wc-lci in the term of variation. At firft the rains are moderate, and often intermit, but afterward? become more heavy and inceflantj till at laft they decline, by the f.ime gradation in which they had advinced. The heavicft rains in India arc in Auguft and September, at which time they are ac compaiiicd every evening with terrible thunder, and the whole flat country is overflowed. When the fair feafon returns, lightning, without thunder, is very frequent J and on account of the ferenity of the fky, fo great is the luftro of the ftars, during four oi Jive months, that people eafily fee to travel by their light. The northern provinces of India produce wheat, barley, peafe, and beans; but in that part of the country, which lies within the tropic of Cancer, the only grain that is cultivated, is rice. This is fown in beds, as trees in a nurfcry, whence it is tranfplanted into ftrait trenches, when the blade has attained the height of about half a foot, which ufually coincides with the period when the rains begin to fall. In November or December the feafon of harvcft arrives, •t which time, the fun having exhaled all the water, the earth is hardened, and the rice, after being cut, is for the moft part threfhed out in the field. When this grain is in the ftate of vegetation, its appearance is ncnrly fimilar to that of oats. The ftraw, how- ever, is not hollow, but AifF and hard, as may be feen by the whifks or bruflics inadc of it, and imported into Europe. The rice is covered with a thick brown ikin, which muft be fcparated by beating in a mortar, and fifting, before it affiimes the white colour. It might be imagined, that the tedioufncfs of this procefs would much inhance the price of the commodity ; but fo great is the quantity produced, that enough may be purchafed for three-pence, to feed a family of nine or ten perfons a whole day, though an Indian will cat three times as much rice as an European, at a meal. The fouthern parts of the country produce all kinds of tropical fruits, fuel) as mangoes, guavas, pome- granates, pine-apples, cocoa-nuts, oranges, &c. and in the north they have apples, pears, and moll of the European fruits. Both fruit-trees and foreft-trccs in the fouth of India, arc endowed with perpetual ver- dure ; nor is it uncommon, to fee thofc of the former fpccics bearing bloflbm, at the fame time with fruits in various ftages of maturity. The banian tree, which is peculiar to this country, grows to a great bulk, ani in an extraordinary manner. From its horisontal branches, fmall tw'igs flioot down- wards perpenJiculaily, and taking root, form pillari for the fujport of the parts whence they fprung i fa that one tree will often be inultiplycd into twenty or thirty trunks, and cuvcr a fpacc of ground, fulTuiuit t(i tlielter a regiment. Under thole trees the L'»ni .iit anil other fupcrltitjuus people place their iinajesj and the hermits voluntarily undergo perpetual penance, (it- ing or lying conllantly in one pnfture, in the ln'iie of thus qualifying thcmlclvcs (or admiflion into p.iradife. Their enlhufiafni, in llie mean time, is flattered and venerated by the people, who worlhip tlicr.i i, noly men, and who alTui in the feeding and providing fur them. The kitchen gardens aflicirJ melons, pot herbs and roots i pepper grows on the coaft of Mal.iharj where, as well as in other partj, they have alfo ginger, fafl'ion, turmerick, lugar, cotton, and iiuljgo. The beads of burthen in India are oxen, camels, dromedaries, anu elephants ; but the latter arc ufcd only to carry the princes or great oflicers, and for the purpofc of war. The oxen are lefs in fize than thofc of England, but much more iwifi, travelling generally upwards of thirty miles a day upon a trot; and between their (houlderi is a bunch, tu whieh the pack-faddles arc faftened. A camel will carry, for the moft part, feven or eight hundred weight and more, and travel eight or nine days without water. I'or which rcafon, this animal is particularly well adapted to travelling over fandy defarts; but having a fniooth foot, with- out any houf, it cannot tread with fccurity upon a clay foil, after any rain is fallen, and the journey is there- fore interrupted till the ground becomes diy. The dromedaries are a fmaller fpecies of camels, and as re- markable for their fwiftncfs, as the other for ftrength, trotting frequently two hundred miles a day. Buffaloes .ilfo are ufed in the draught, as well as for food. Thofe animals refcmble the ox in fliapc, but arc more ugly. The Indian (heep have reddifti hair infteaJ of woo! : they are likewife much thinner and longer legged than thofc of Europe, and their flelh is of nn inferior qua- lity, being dry and coaiie. The black ho;;!., with low bellies, now fo frequent in England, are reared in great numbers : the wild hog alfo affords excellent meat; and befiJcs thofe, the natives fhoot deer, antelopes, hares, and wild fowl. The wild beads are chiefly leopards, tygers, and jackalls; for it .ippcars to be uncertain, whether lions are indigenous to the country. Monkeys are very numerous, on account of the protCvSion which they receive from the fupcr- ffitious inh.ibitants; and many of them arc kept round the temples or pagodas, as objci5ls of popular ado- ration. One of the grcateft inconveniences attending this country, is its being infefted with fuch fwarms of noxious infeils and reptiles. The gnat or mufkcto, which is conffantly buzzing about the cars, is ex- tremely troublefomc, efpccially to flrangcrs, v\hom it ftings to a violent degree; but in thofc who have been accuftomcd to the climate, this cffecT is no longer pro- duced. The inhabitants, however, are hardly one moment u T II r. MODERN [AstA. nioinriit cxcmptoJ, n\^\M or d^y, (turn the iineary fcnfjliuii cxtiail by thufc inULh on th'.' lUlii) to which mjy h.' .uUcJ, llut while in hcJ, ihd biigt likewil'c «rc I'xcrcJiiijjIy aniioyiin;. AiMtluT p'l ;uc which |{tcatly i.-|i:(li (ho Indi.ini, it tlic liniil'c-l'cor- pixi). 'I'hia uiiini. I It ubiiut the length of oiic't finder, cf II giccnifli colour, ainl cjirio hii flm^ uiinicallii.il at t >4 ciul ol lin t.iil. It coiumunly lurks in the cur- nen of the rootii, r.rir the ciclinj, whence It drops down in the ni;;ht on the bciU or conches. The p.iin ccc.ir;'iiicd by lis bite ciintinucs to be Co exiiiilfitc for twelve huurii lli.it duriii:; thjt pcrioil, the jurfon who his reteivcj it ii ictally deprived of his frnles. Snakes alio will funiciiir.e:) get into the houfes, and lie con- cealed, where, as well as abroad, they cMit their flings, no lei's to the great annoymcnt than danger cf the inhabitints. The moft terrible of this clafs is the cobre capcllc, or hooded fn.ikc, fo.n.inicd Irom a folding of the ikiii on the b.ick of ihc hra>'. i i oitc is I ■ tiinuly daii;>rroiis aiul (;MieI; of operation. There aic hi.cwi.c (,4i,>; oUier I'peclcs of fupents, that cither lio not biie, or ;^l le..ll whcfe bite is iiinuxioui. Une C II A V. IV, Of lilt ptrftnt *f ihi fti.liiiHi—'thtir drifimmftn'mi—^ ditl^ tiiutr/iiHi—'rctiJi — aiiii m/lM »/ iruvMHg, nrUK Indian! are generally of .i middle f«e, and •^ Icldom corpulent, 'i heir fe.uiiiei arc ge.'id, with black eyes, and long black huir. In the niiddio of the country their completion ii likeivifc of tha fame colour, but towards the north, and alonj the coaft, they arc lawny. The women, it wc except their complexion, which may app< ar to an European incompatible with pal'ccl beauty, arc ackiiowlc^eJ to have extraordinary charms, Their flaturc, fliap>-, and features, arc not only hijjhly en^; i^lnp, but thera is in their motion a natural ^racc and cK^^ince, which captivates every beholder. The halit of the Indian men is a white vcfl, girt about with a fafl), which contains a crice or dai^^er ; but thole who arc poor go quite naked, Th.ii hair is tied up in a roll, and covered with a turban The women wear a little waillcoat, which C(in< cats their of thofc, which is of a grc.n colour and fmall fizc, ! breads, and round their loins a large piece of niuflin will lr;i;iieiuly dart fiuin one tree to .iiioiher, and has 1 or callico, whith pafling over the fljouKler, l,.ii'gs thence obtained the name of the flying-fcrpent, ! dawn upon the b.-ick. The men fomctinuM nuke ul'c 'J'he nilllep?i!cs, or crntcpcJes, arc very numerous ' of flippers, but the women fcldoin or never, in India, aii.l their bite is ai dangerous as th: fcorpinn's The Indians in gencr.il ai\; i\ckontJ an in^cniouj fling. They are about two or three inches long, and people, and have a peculiar dexterity in i.nitatiiig .ho nearly ol the thicknefs of a common goofo quill. | works either of nature cr art, 'I'hwir tcinpcr ii t.iur- 'J'he to.iilj, fpidcrj, and rats, as in all hot counlric?, \ teous, afl'able, and e.'inpofed, and it ij ixtuin.'Iy are at le.ifl double th; fizc of thofc in Liirope, and I rare to fee them ir.inn'refs the bounN of fo'iil t/. likv-wile in great number : but one of the moll deflruc- j By fomc they h.ive Lecn brani!i d '.vitli the rcpro.ica of live plagues of the country is lucufts, which fometimes effeminate covvr.rdicc, but this is by no ineEr.s tho intercept the light of the fun, for the fpacc of .i mile i general ch.-'.rnillir of the nation ; for there arc luinibcr* or two in lenu,th, devouring not only the heibagc but i of men amongft them of the moil determinate courage, the corn, when it is at the point cf being reaped, i and who only want the advantage of dileipline, to 'ihc biidi of India arc ihiefly parrots, patroquets, ! equal the bravrft tr v^ps of Europe, and the loury, which is of the parrot fpecics, but more The diit of the InJians is dillerent, according to beautll'ul in th? plumngc. The country produces the ' the religious tribes unJer v.'hieh they ate diflinguifl.ed. fame kinds of pouify as Europe, with this liift'erciice I Thofe of the Biinian tiafs cat no anlmil food, bvt only, that in many cf ihcm the bones arc blatk. ] fubfift entirely upon rice, roots, and fruits. The Among the fouls, there ij a kite with a white hc.id, ' others eat uliiioft every thing, except beef and fi(h to which the Banians pay divine honours. without fcalcs ; while the Moors and M.-.homct.\n9 Gi'at variety cf fea and river fidi is to be met willi abllain only from I'uch ll-di aj was prohibited to the in India; among the former of which are dulphins, i Jews by the Mofaic law. They all fit crofs-lcggcd, albicores, bonctas, and the flying-fifh. The fliaik is or loll upon mats or carp:ts, at ihcir meals, before and frrqurnt in tliolc f>;i.s as is llkewife the crocodile in , after which it is uiiivei I'.dly the cufloin to wadl. The the mouth ol the Ganges, principal difli amnngft the .Moors and I'.i.;i:is is pilau. It is not evident from the beft authority, that this i mad:; of fouls or nuitton, and rice, which ate boiled country abounds in minerals, or at lead that any into a ftroiig foup, that is I'.ighly feafoncd. Soups of mines arc opened; hut it doubtlefs produces the mofl the fame fort arc alfo made of fifli, vcnifon, and al- valuable diamonds in the world. Thefc are found ; moft all kinds of flcfli, which arc conft.mtly Hewed moll ficqueiu!y upon or near the fiirface, and chiefly among the rocks in the kingdom of Golconda; though there arc likewife n^incs out of which they arc Jug, particularly at RaalconJa or Gani. Of other jewels, the mod' coinmon in India is that obtained from the pcarl-oyCcr, for which they fi(h in the Stiaits of Ra- nianakoiel, between the continent and the ifland of Ceylon. J to rags. At meals, a large plate, or a leaf of a foot diameter, is fet before each of the gucfls ; on which, out of a capacious bowl, the fervants diflributc with a ladle, a quart or three pints of boiled rice, moidcn- ing it with a fiiirifient quantity of the ftrong foup, and laying on the lidc of the plate a little of the bou- illic. Every pcrfon in the company is accommoilated with a bottle or cruife of water, of which they drink when they pleafe, without ever pradlifing the ceremony ef t;' itlhtH $f truvMiig. •■' mul.llc rue, irnj fcituu'i urc gooil, iJ.r. In the iiiijilltf ' i» likeivifc of tlio ftli, ;wi.| along tliu Jinoii, if" we except I'.ir to an Eiirope.iii I arc ailciiowlcjjoj licir fhiiito, niap., "a'i;iii(?i but thcra inO clciiinci-, which IC/A-AtH Jrm^. l\ ufc a pipe of cxtraorJiii?.ry length, the bowl of which is fiippoitpJ by a bottle of water, that is purpofcly placed en the floor. The Iiidiuns arc fo far fociabic, that they love to be in conipan' but their motives to aHbciation fccm to be little mu: than thofe of gregarious animals, for they aie almoft j filcnt as if nature had formed them without the organs nf fptcch. Nor arc they lefs averfc to walking for amui iiient, than they are to the intcr- courfc of ideas. The ufual falutc amongft them is the falam, or the lifting one or both hands to the head, according to the quality of the pcrfon to whom the compliment is paid. In this ceremony, however, to ufc the left hand alone would be reckoned extremely dil'refl.cclful. When a princj is adJrcfTcd, the perfon wlio approaches him bows low, bringing his hands down to the ground, then upwards to his brcaft, and ladly to his head, which motions are repeated three times } but other?, on the fani? occafion, fall proftrate on their fjcc. The Moors, when they meet a friend, No. 6. . „ .i»uu>, jvk iiaiuiy nny tning is ever done cither towards forming or repairing it. At the diftancc of every ten or twelve miles, however, there is a caravanfera or choultry, for the acctmmodation of travellers, with a taiik or refervoir of water near it, and fire for drcfling their food. But fo dcftitute are thofe places of convenience, that even beds are not rurnifhcd, and the traveller muft provide himfelf with every ncceflary before he fets out on his journey. The common vehicle for travelling is a palanquin, which is a couch covered with an .irclnd cannpy, and furniflied with a mattrafs, quilts a-.id r.uihion-i, to lie on. It is hung upon a bambor or hollow cane, aboi't five or fix inches diameter, ,ino ten foot long, which is bent in the middle while it rs j'.owing, This vch.clc is fo large, that a perfon u'ay .ithcr fit v.\ it iipri^^lit, or lol' upon the cuftiions, as lie pleafcs. The fmallcr number of cooleys or chairmen hired for a journey, it ten, four of whom alternately carry the vehicle, two before and two behind, bearing on their fhoulders the ends of the bambco cane, on which the couch hangs; Q. while r'\ 1 k.t' .,i.N-.^\,^ 1^ .••■>■,,,,,; ■ f..'. \^ isfl'^ .•>.teL < 1 I f i I c .^C }^ i ....:i'f;>4,. ..v-^ 11?^-:^ ■]' l^'v ai li ■ ti U t • <> y^-"f: t . ii...,..,oT* .;., , / »■ ^iv. I: V^.*"' \ wV» n ^->^:*^ •-v u r-rllV- •;i ft A to wiiKK LiiL u.uiiuiib [my uivinc nonours. r-r«cr»iT-s>. ■»• 1 AI. I •rs-r~:'.'r' . witnout Icalcs; wtille the Moors and M;;liom''t.ins Gi'-nt variety of fca ;'.iul river fifli is to be met viith | abltain only from fuch llfli a3 was prohibited to the in India; among the fuimcr of which are dulphins, alblcorcs, bonctas, and the flying-ri(h. The fliark is frequent in thofc f-nt, as is likcvvilc the crocodile in the mouth of the Ganges. It is not evident from the bed au'.hority, that this country abounds in minerals, or at leafl that any niinci arc opened ; hut it doubtlefs produces tlie mod valuible diamonds in the world. Thefe are found moll frequently upon or near the furface, and chiefly amon^ tlie rocks in the kingdom of Goleonda; though there ;irc likewife n.iiies out of which they are dug, ],.irtlcul..r!y at K.-. .>,nda or Gani. Of other jewels, tiic mod coa.mon in India is that obtained from the penrl-oyCer, for which they fifli in the Straits of Ra- nianakoitl., between :hc continent and the ifland of Ceylon. 7 Jews by the Mofaic law. They all fit crofs-leggcd, or loll upon mats or carpets, at their meals, before and after wliicli it is univei !'.dly the culUiin to wafll. The principal difli amongft tliC Moors and I'.i:;ins is pilau, made of fowls or mutton, and rice, which arc boiled into a ftrong foup, that is l'.ii;,hly fe,ironcd. Soups of the fr'mc fort arc alfo made of fifli, venifon, and al- moft all kinds of flcfli, which are coiirtantly ftcwcd to rags. At meals, a laige plate, or a leaf of a foot diameter, is fet before each of the gueftsj on which, out of a capacious bowl, the fervants diilributc with a ladle, a quart or three pints of boiled rice, nioiden- ing it with a ftifTiricnt quantity of the ftrong foup, and laying on the Cde of the plate a little of the bou- illie. Every pcrfoii in the company is accommodated with a bottle or cruife of water, of which ihcy drink when they pleafe, without ever prailifinj; 'he ceremony «f India.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. €i of addrcfllng e.ich other in healths. Their fauces confift chiefly of picliles, made of bamboos, garlic, and mangoes; bcfides which, the compofition known in England by the name of foy, is likcwifc in general eftccm. The grand meal in lhi< country is in the evening, the middle of the day, as in other hot cli- mates, being generally devoted to flccp. The Indians are fo temperate in the ufe of ftrong liquors, that an inftance of intoxication is fcldom ob- fcrved amongft them; and when this happens, it is only in the lower claiL of the people. But fuch is ihc detcftation in which this vice is generally held, that even to touch a pcrfon addifled to it, is confidered as a fpccics of defilement. The liquors ufcd in this country are drawn cither from rice, the juice of the fugar-cane, the cocoa-nut, or palm-trees; the latter of which is regarded rather as a wine than a fpirit. All other wines drank in India are imported from Europe, and fold for near a crown a bottle; except fome brought from Pcrfia, which is cheaper, but far inferior in quality. Fine ale is here almoft of the fame price with wine, on account of the frequent lofs fuftained by flying, in the paflage from Europe : but old beer is afforded at eighteen pence a bottle; and inftead of fmall beer, fome of the European inhabitants brew a liquor of brown fugar-candy, which they work with toddy or palm wine. Though the Indians are very fparing in the ufe of firong liquors, and for the moft part abftain entirely from them, yet they frequently intoxicate thcmfclvcs with opium, or an herb called bang, which produces nearly the C>me effcft with the former. Bcfides thcfc, they indulge themfelves to excefs in chewing a com- pofition of a ftupefa£livc quality, made of the betel- leaf, combined with the arek-nut and lime. They alfo fmoak tobacco, but in a manner different from that which is pradlifed in Europe. Of this they roll up a leaf about three o" four inches long, when light- ing it at one cud, they apply the other to their mouth, and fmoak till the half i:; confumcd, after which they throw away the remainder. The Moors, however, ufe a pipe of cxtraorJin?.ry length, the bowl of which is fupported by a bottle of water, that is purpofely • placed en tiie floor. The Indians arc fo far fociablc, that they love to be in company, but their motives to affociation feem to be little more than thofe of gregarious animals, for they are almoft as filcnt as if nature had formed them without the organs of fptcch. Nor are they Icfs averfe to walking for amufcmcnt, than they arc to the inter- courfc of ideas. The ul'ual falute amongft them is the falam, or the lifting one or both hands to the head, according to th; quality of the pcrfon to whom the complimcni is paid. In this ceremony, however, to ufe the left hand alone would be reckoned extremely ilifrcf|.cclful. When a prince is adorcffed, the pcrfon who approaclics him bows low, bringing his hands down to the ground, then upwards to his bread, and ladly to his head, which motions are repeated three times; but others, on the fame occafion, fall proftrate on their ficc. The Moors, when they meet a friend. No. 6. lay, /a/am afaciim, God preferve you ; tlie common aufwer to which is, alaaim fulam, or, I wilh the fame to you. The Indians praflifc gaming for amufcmcnt as well as the Chinefe, but they fcldom indulge thcmfclvcs fo much in it as to injure their fortunes, or endanger their tranquility of mind. At a feaft, it is ufual for the company to be entertained with vocal mufic and dancing, which are performed by the girls dedicated to the fcrvice of the temple, who are by no means of the order of veftal virgins. In the evenings, during the fair feafon, plays are aiSlud by torch-light in the fields. But the moft common divcrfion in every village is the dancing of the cobrc capelle, or hooded fnake; of which feveral are brouglit by their keepers, to where the inhabitants are affcmblcd, in covered bafkcts. The owners of them then beginning to fing and play on rude inftrumcnts, uncovering at the fame time the baflcets, thofe creatures raife thcmfilvcs cretV, and as it were dance to the found of the mufic; which, not- withftanding it hardly dcfcrvcs that name, if difcon- tinued, they get out upon the ground, and hifs in a terrible manner. As foon, however, as the mufic begins again, they are direiSlcd to their former ftation, where their motions arc immediately renewed. The rural fports moft frequently praflifed are thofe of hunting and hawking. Their method is to fur- round part of the country, and drive the game into a narrow compafs, where they afterwards (hoot at itj ufing inftead of a ftalking-horfc, an ox that has been accuftomed to ftand fire. It is faid that they teach even tygers and leopards to take the game, which they do by jumping upon it from bufhcs, or other cover, but never run fairly after it. Racing, performed by oxen, is another divcrfion of the inhabitants ; but that of I the court is chiefly the fights of wild bcafts. The Indians have hitherto been extremely ncglcfl- fnl of their high roads, which arc doubtlefs among the worft in the world. In the open country, on account of the fands with which it is covered, no diftimSl track cm be traced ; and though a way is fomctimes opened through thick woods, yet hardly any thing is ever done cither towards forming or repairing it. At the diftarcc of every ten or twelve miles, however, there is a caravanfera or choultry, for the actcmmodation of travellers, with a tank or rcfervoir of water near it, and fire for drcfiing their food. But fo dcftitute are thofe places of convenience, that even beds are not furniftied, and the traveller muft provide hinifelf with every neceffary before he fets out on his journey. The common vehicle for travelling is a palanquin, which is a -ouch covered with an arched canopy, and furniflicd with a mattrafs, quills and cufliions, to lie on. It is hung upon a bamboo or hollow cane, about five or fix inches diameter, and ten foot long, which is bent in the middle while it is growing. This vehicle is fo large, that a pcrfon may cither fit in it upright, or loll upon the cuftiions, as he plcafcs. The fmaller number of cooleys or chairmen hired for a journey, i$ ten, four of whom alternately carry the vehicle, two before and two behind, bearing on their (boulders the ends of the bambco cane, on which the couch hnnci:''; q. while 6m^ THE MODERN while others are employed in carrying large umbrellas, finely carved and gilt, to (krcen the fun from the traveller, morning and evening. For when the fun is many degrees above the horizon, he is fufficiently protefled by the canopy. Another cooley is employed in brufliing tiic flics ofF the pcrfon who fits in the vehicle, which he performs with an inftrumcnt re- iembliiig a horfc's tail, fadcncd to a ftaft", A diffe- rent cooley carries the traveller's pipe, wlule the charge cf another attendant is the betel and arek, with the furniture belonging to it. During the journey, feme of the retinue arc difpatched to the neighbouring villages, to procure rice, fowls, and other provifions, with fuel, which they generally find in the way. The part of the cook is performed by one of the coo- leys; but if the traveller be a perfon of figure, he is attended by his own fervants, and has Jikewife his mufic and fiiiging girls to run before him. All the f cdeftrian attendants, coolcys and others, travel quite naked, with only a hand's breadth of linen before them, and another fmall piece about their heads. In this manner they will run forty miles a day, travelling only early in the morning and !atc in the evening; for during the fair feafon, which is the propCi' time for a journey, they can fee pretty well by ftar- light. There is then indeed fonie danger from wild beafts and robbers ; but as a defence againft thofe, it is ufual for a traveller to hire ten additional cooleys, who are fur- niftied with arms. The daily expence of this whole retinue of twenty men does not exceed a crown > for they find their own provifion, and would not on any account partake of the meat or drink of the traveller^, the tailing of which they would confidcr as the for- feiture o. paradife. About noon, the journey is inter- rupted fome hours at the baiting place, when the cxcefiive heat of the fun and fands render it impohlblc to proceed. Merchandize i3 ufually carried by camels or oxen, on which occufiniis fcvcn or eight hundred people triivel in a caravan, to avoid the danger of being attacked by the mountaineers or banditti. Some (cw petfons ride on horfcback, but more on bulls; and the princes and nobility ufe elephants. There being ro ftatcd ports in this country, letters are conveyed by iiieiTongers fent on purpofe, who are rot only faithful, but extremely expeditious, and may be hired at a very eafy rate. CHAP. V, Of the gevernment— court— re"ienut— /cms— — mauu- fadurts-^trade-^navigaUcn, INDIA is governed by a fov'ereign entitled, the Great Mogul, who has under him a number of viceroys or tributary prince?, fiyled nabobs, Befides thefe, who arc placed over the ancient provinces of the empire, there are others, nam"d rnj.ihs, who excrcife the fu- prcme authority in ihv- conquered provinces; govern- ing by their own laws and culloms, civil and religious, only acknowledging tlu' Mogul as llieir fupreme lord, and paving him .nn annual tribute; with the additional mark of dependency, that they mount his guard by [Asia. turns, and bring their troops into the field when he requires it. The Mogul's revenues arife from the tribute of the valTal princes, the duties of import and export, and a certain (hare of corn, which he refcrves from the crops of the year. J3ut the mod plentiful fourcc of his acquifitions is tlie eftates of the court-eunudio, aEid great officers, wliitli lie feizcs at iluir deu;b, if not fooncr, which often happens on their being charged with mal-admini.'lration. His annual income by thefa means is computed at fifty millions flcrling. This prince has generally in his fervicc three hundred thoufand Moorilh horfc, befides the troops cf tire rajali?, which confift uf infantry, and arc very nume- rous. Of the latter, twenty thoufand mount the Mogul's guard at a time, without the gates of the palate, while an equal number of Moors is flationcd in one of the courts, The Mogul, on his acceflion, always afiumcs fome favourite epithet of diftinftion, as, fovneign cf tl.t ■world, orniwieiit cf the throne, &c. He never wears a a crown, nor is formally inveftrd with the Aiprcnie power, contenting himfelf with b.ing only proclaimed and recognifcd by bis fubjeils. The great officers of his court are generally eunuchs, by whom the afi^airs of ftate arc tranfaiVed : but it is not uncommon for the ladies of the feraglio to influence adminillration, ia far as frequently to overturn the mod determined mea- fures of government. According to the mofl authentic account, the number of thefe amounts to about a thoufand; of whom never mofc than four have the precedency of wives, and bear the title of fultana. To this honour none but the IM^gul's own fubjcfls arc admitted; for to marry the dauj^htcr even of a foreign prince, would be confidcrcd as degi-ading his dignity, though it be not rrdconcd in the lead; aif- honourablc to match with the nicaned flavc in his own dominions. The fitft fon by any of his wives is deemed heir apparent to tl-.e crown, and conflantly refidcs at court; but the younger fons are ufually appointed governors of the diflant provinces, bearing each the title of fultan, as every one of the daughters does that of fultana. The former are married about fourteer» years of age, bat the latter not permitted to enter the connubi.ll Hate, from an opinion, th.U to marry n p.-rfoa of inferior rank would riflcil diliionour on the roy,il family. This rcllri(5Hon, however, is coinpcnfated by the latitude allowed to their gallitiitiies at court, in which they frequently indulge then, Hives, without any rigorous controul It is f.iid that the Mogul his hia female guards and nitcnd.ints within the palace, and feldom fufl'ers the other fcx to approach his perfcn» tho'igh they occu'-y the outer courts and the avenues to the feraglio. Though the crown be confidcreJ as hereditary, it is ufual for all the princes of the blood to have recourfe to arms at the death of the Mo^ul, when the fupcrior force of one of the competitors determines the right of fucce/Tion. The jcaloufy, however, which has been fomented by this contention for power, is fofe'dom cx- tinguifhcd by its attainment, that the barbarous policy is alnioft perpetually prai'lifed, of lacrificing to the fucutity 1 India.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. fecurity of the conqueror, every dcfcendant of the royal family tliat might have the fmallcft pretciiflons to the throne. The eunuchs, wlio are the great officers of the crown, arc generally Pcrfi? is or Tartars, and have therefore ftlJom any connexion in InJia, On which account, they are entirely dependent on the pleafure of the Mdirul, who, without endangering his own fecurity, can feize their eiTccls, or even deprive thcni of life. For though thefe perfons be alvnoft adored while in office, their miniftcrial inlliicnce is no fooner at an enJ, than they find themfelves abandoned by the creatures of their power, whofc attachment had only been maintained from motive? of private intereft. In the fair feafon, which lafts feveral mojiths, it is ufual for the Mogul to make a tour through great part of his dominions, attended by fuch a retinue of guards, mechanics, ladies of the court, with officers and fcr- vants, as fouietimcs comprifcs not lefs than a million of fouls. This vaft body of people is accommodated with a moving camp, in the niiJdk of which is placed the Mogul's pavilion, furroundcd by the tents of the court ladies. Thefe are environed with a fence ten foot high, which folds up li!ce a fcrcen. Beyond this enclofure, is a fecond circl , containing the nobilitv and great officers of ftate, furroundcd by other circles, in which the people are difpofcd according to their rank, in regular gradation; the outermoft department being allotted to the meaneft of the train. In each of thofe precinfts is a market-place, well ftored with pro- vifions i to fupply which, not lefs than twenty or thirty thoufand carriers are conftantly employed. The length of the march feldom exceeds ten m'les a-day, A number of boats, laid on carriages, are drawn after the army, for the conveniency of paffing rivers. On thofc expeditions, the Mogul fpends part of his time in hearing and redreffing the grievances of his fubjcills, who live at a diftance from the capital, and the re- mainder in the exercife of hawking, hunting, and other fports. The arms ufed in India by the cavalry, are a broad fword and dagger, with a bow and arrows, and a lance; and by the infantry, the how and arrows, with pikes, mufqucts, and fliields. In the manage- ment of the mufquets, however, they are far from being expert; and the train of artillery is chiefly cou- duiStcd by European gunners. They fire fome fmall pieces from the backs of elephants, which, before the introdui'ilion of fire-arms, were the ftrength of their army, Thofe animals were taught to throw bars of iron, and fweep down the enemy with heavy chains. The manufaflures of India are chiefly filk, muflins, cottons, chintzes and callicos; of which the latter are not only finely painted, but their colours are more Idf^ing than any thing of that kind in Europe. The beft chintzes and callicos are purchafed at MalTula- patam ; the filks, in Bengal ; and muflln, with cal- lico likewifc, is to be hrj in great quantity on the coaft of Coromandel. Bcfidcs thofe manufaiSures, other articles of traffic are pepper, falt-pctrc, alTa- fsetida, indigo, and a variety of drug'. 6 Except the cloth which the Engliflj Eaft India Company arc obliged by their charter to export, they feldom fend hither any other goods but lead and flints; finding it more advantageous to purchafe imports with filvcr than any other commodity. Several branches of manufacture, however, are carried to India by the people employed in the Company's trade, and fome. times turn out to good account, Thefe are watches, clocks, arms, glafs, haberdafhery-ware, gold and filver lace, and toys. From Surat efpecially, the Mogul's fubjefls carry on a prodigious trade to Perfia and Arabia; furnifliing thofe countries with all the rich merchandize of India, and bringing thence Perfia carpets, pearls, coffee, and other commodities, but chiefly trcafure. For the car- riage of thofe imports, they ufually hire Englilh or Dutch vefTels, as being beft able to defend their car- goes againft the attack of pirates, who frequently annoy the country fliips ; and from the freight of this trade, the Company draws coiifiderable profit. Befides their traffi;: by fea, thf Indians have long had a great trade by land, with Perfia, Ruffia, Tartary, and the dominions of the Tuik; v/hich in carried on by numerous caravans, at certain feafons of the year. It is remarkable, that tliough the Mogul has a fea- coaft of two thoufand miles in extent, he hr.s hardlv a fingle fea- port, or a (liip of war, to pro'.ert the trade cf his fubjcds. For, except Goa, Bunibaj, and the mouth of the Ganges, which ;:re all pofTefled by Eu- ropeans, there arc no harbours fit for the reception of a veflel. All embarkations on the coaft of India arc made by means of the country-boats, called meflToulas, which are compofed of a light fpongy wood, the boards about half an inch thick, and fixed together with cocca nut cordage, without the ufe of any nails. Thefe boats are fix foot deep, and will carry a great quantity of goods at a time. Though they fttike frrquentiv be- fore they get to land, they are in no danger or" over- fetting or fplitting; for being exceeding pliant, they yield to every bank that occurs, from which the next wave or furf of the fea fets them afloat, and heaves them to another, till at lengtli they arc wafted to the fhorc. Thefe boats are generally rowed by fix or eioht hands. For the purpofe of carrying very weighty materials on board a fliip, they often make ufe of a cnttamaran, which confifts of three rough timber logs tied together, on which they fomctimes fit up a fail, and at others paddle along with a flat ftick, about the breadth of a man's hand. With this vehicle likewifc they often go out three or four miles to fea a-fifliing. C H A VI. Of manlages—funenih — religion — hiiiguage-— learning —arts and fcicnccs. TT is not uncommon for the Gentoos or Pagans of ■■■ India, to difpofe of their children in marriage, even during their infancy, the confent of the parties to the contradt being deemed a matter of no importance. The cuftom, however, is indifpenfable, that the male and I I il iil 64 THE MODERN [Asia. >nd fcma'e thus betrothed fhall be the offspring of perfons vho follow the fame occupation. At what- ever time ihc nuptial treaty is concluded, no cohabi- tation enfucs till the woman is twelve years of age, and ihc man fome years older. Prcmuturc as thofe nuptial contradls dcfcrve to be reckoned, they are never entered into by the parents without confulting the aftrologeri who not only determines, whether the propofcd union Ihall prove fortunate or othirwife, but likewife what hour is the mod propiticus for the confummation of it. Every thing being fettled, a grand procellion is made through the ftreets for feveral nights fucccffively, by the light of torches; while the bride and bridegroom arc carried each on a palanquin on men's (boulders, with mufic playing before them. The parties are then let down at the houfc of the bride's father, where a table being placed between them, they join their hands crofs it, and the prieft covering both their heads with a cloth, repeats fome prayers for their happinefs. The company are afterwards fprinkled with perfumed water, and the ceremony concludes with an entertainment. The hufband, or his father, if it be a rich family, makes valuable prefcnts to the wife's relations, while all the fortune cxpcited by her is her cloaths, and one cr two female liaves. After the confummation of the marriage, however, flie is entirely in the power of her hufband, who enjoys the privilege of retaining as many wives .iiid concubines as he pleafes. Ten days aftc ' child is born, a name is given to it by the father's fifte. , or fome near relation ; in about two months from which time, it is carried to a temple, and forrrially adriitted to the benefit of the religion which they profefs. Neither boys nor girls wear any cloaths, until they are feven years old, but before that age their mothers are n' •ift eonftantly vvafhing them with cold water; and vvst-x there is not the conveniency of any river for bathing, it is cuftomary both for young and old to have wfU- water poured upon their heads feveral t,!;.ri a-day. To this cuilom of bathing, (b univerfally praftifed, and to the freedom of children from thofe ligatures, which in other countries lay the foundation of various difeafes, it is probably owing, that hardly one crooked or rickctty perfon can be feen in any of the provinces of India. The moft common manner of treating the dead is that of burning the corpic, which is previoudy wafhcd, and drefled in the bed cloaths that had been worn by the deceafcd in his life time. But thofe who have the good fortune to die within a little diftance of the Gange3, are heaved into that ri"er, which is wor- li.ipii-.ii ^-, a God, and confidered as the ncarcft road to pB'.id.lc. '"'h re are likewife fome other rivers the ob_,e-ts 0/ adoration, and into which the dead are im- r-.>r^cd, The ho il lie prafi'-s of the wife', burning herfclf ?i I h:t hafba id at . i- dcccafe, if ever indeed it could praV4»il i« much as (omc tr.ivcli'i's have rcprcfciucd, f.f.ns «"«' to be univerfally difufed, no lefs than pro- hi' ,' b^ 'hi po.:'ivC order of ih; Mogul, '''he rui''ix.-..'y mourning in India is a tattered ncg- UtlcJ ■rrf' .v.iich, provided it aiifwcr this defcrip- tion, is not fixed to any particular colour. The wo- men (have their heads on the death of a hufband, but the men only on the demife of a father, or a fovereigd prince. The place wher^ a corpfe has been burnt i» often vifited by the relations, wh i carry hither iic« and other food, as a token of their regard for the de- ceafcd. The greater part of the inhabitiints of India art idolaters, who, though agreeing i]i the general out- lines of their religion, are nevcrthclcfs dillinguilhei into upwards of fixty tribes, fo different in pariicular principles, as hardly to maintain with each other the ordinary intercouifc of life. The chief of thole tribes is that of the Bramins cr Hrachmans, who are tiic priefts of every fefl, and efteemcd the moft refpciftablc of the pagan profcflion. This venerable order, wliich derives its origin from the rcmoteft ages of .intlquity, is fub- dividcd into five diflindt dalles; the tirft of which comprifes thofe Bramins that eat no flcfh ; tlix: fecond, thofe who eat fome kinds of Hefh ; the thirj , luch as confider marriage not iinbccoiiiing their facerdotal funilion; the fourth, thofe who vow celibacy > and the fifth, fuch as almoft entirely forbear w ."ting, left in their motion they (hould by accident deftroy fomclifing creature, I is the cuftorn of the latter of ih 'i tribes, I ,■ \v;ar constantly a piece of fil!c or iinfiUi f;i:io.» ;hfii» mouths, that they may not with thcii bre-1,1 .»i,iw ia a fly. They abftain from burning wood le'.' tliey (hould kill fome iiifccV, and always v-r'j aij^ufh in their hand, to fweep the place oi wi 'ch they (halt fit, with the view of avciuing to diilod; > the weight of their body the fo ji of fomt ..'Pini«i . The Bramiis in genn. • ar ..itAitin ;d ho- only .bn moft noble, but tht n-'ft lear.icd of the Inaiaa tribes. They have a language •.eculia.- to themfrlves, in which the do'ilrines of their religion are written, and faid Ij I'i, ,■ be-..: ^•■^nfmIltcd .''10m the earlieft times by Brams, ti.'ir Jaw-gi "!r. They hold the exifti:i<-c of one Gou iiiJuiif' • r;.tc£t, w' o has endurej from alj eternity j but tnat there are three inferior deities, namely, B;ama, whom he invcfted with the power of creation •, Wift- now, the preferv^r; and Routercn, the enemy ard de- ftroyer of mankind. They fcem un'verfally to bcliere in a pre-exiftcnt ftate, and the doJf ,ine of tranftr.igra- tion ; maintaining that fome arc rcvi'ardtd, and others puniflied in this life, according to their rcfpeflive merits or demerits in a former. Amidft all their fuperftitlon, they inculcate to their followers the moll cfllntial moral duties, with a zeal which might rcdeft honour on th« profiffors of the pureft religion, it being almoft their conftant employment to recommend the virtues of temperance, juftice, and humanity. Thefe important Ii.n'ons, however, are fuilied by other injunctions of a frivolous nature; fuch as, that their followers (hall go in pilgrimage to certain places eftecmed huly, cfpc- cially to thff pagodas ne:i' the mouth of the Gangei ; that celcbratC'i river, the waflting in which, according to the general opinion of the Indiiins, will cleanfc from a multitude of fins. The moft honourable tribe or caft next to tlic Bra- mins, is that of the Rajall'utc or Rafboot, who make arms their profeffion, Thcfe, being lofs fup;rftitiou$ India.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 6} than the Bramlin, fcruple not to c;it the flcfh of noft animals, except that of neat cattle, and fome other bcafts which they vvorlliip. Thr third tiihe in honour confifts of the Banians, who exceed all the others in their tender rcgatd for the lives of animals; not only prohibiting the killing of them, but ftudying all means for their prcfcrvation. The chief objeift of their ado- ration is the ox, to which they never fail of paying their devotions cve.y morning. According to vulgar tradition, this heart is to waft them over a wide river to paradilc, whither without its afliftancc they never could cxpcdl to arrive, They imagine likcwife, that in the animals of this clafs, it is the fate of the holieft fouls to refide; and even tliat the tcrreftrial globe is fupporicd by their horns; believing that when God was provoked to deltroy munkind f)r their vices, he was prevailed on to fpare tliem by a cjw. If any creature is obfrvcd to frcci-icnt the dwelling of a Banian, he iiiimcJiately concludes that it is animated ty the foul of fomc departed fiicnd, and therefore takes it under his protection. Willi (o much folicitude do the people of this tribe ftudy the happinefs of animals, that they even build and endow hofpitals for fuch as are hurt or fupcrannuated. There lately was one of thofe receptacles within a inile of Surat, where fick and lame horfes, dogs, cows, and goats, were nurfed and piovided for; and there is near the fame place, another hofpital, ereflcd for bugs, fleas, and other InfeiSs, Defides thcfc public endowments, the Banians carry into the fields bafons of boiled rice, for the ufe of the flies and ants, as well as birds. Nor is '.heir regard for animals confined to the care of providing them only with food ; they carry their attachment to fuch a whimfical degree, as to adorn many of the fpecics with pieces of finery; in which kind of bounty even fome trees and vegetables, held in veneration, have likewife a fhare, The people arc taught by the Bramins, to begin and conclude the day with hymns, foni;s, and prayers. But the ninth and twenty-fourth of every month are parti- cularly appropriated to aclt of devotion, and the whole family obliged to fart, or ufc great abftinence. They are likewife enjoined by their religion, to wafli their bodies on many occafions, efpecially after the touch of any thing which they confidcr as polluted; of which clafs, among others, are all thofe of a diffe- rent religion. This fupcrftition is frequently of great advantage to the Europeans, by fccuring their liquors and provifion ; for of thofe, they may depend upon it, that the natives, who arc their fervants, will neve.- rob them. The inhabitants are alfo extremely fuperftitious in refpeft to the right and left hand, abhorring the cuftom of the Europeans, of frequently ufing the latter in lifting the food to their mouth. To falute any pcrfon with that obnoxious member, would be reck- oned the hl''hcfl: .ilTtont, it being, in their opinion, fit only to be ufcd in the mcaneft offices in life. There is among the Pagans a great number of beg- ing Friars, as well as Mahometans. Thofe perfons, who are called Faquirs, make vows of poverty and celibacy, but their vows of poverty are iQ far from No. ti. depriving them of food, that their profilTiin is the mofl cfFedual means of being well provided for; fincc at e\i:ry vill.ige they come to, the people fuinifh them with necell'aries. They go almoft naked, letting their hair grow to a great length, and powdering it withaflies; performing likewife extraordinary penances, with the view of obtaining heaven for thcmfclves and others. Bcfides the fe£ts already mcniioncd, there is another called Gaures, wlio fled hitlur from Pcrlii, when the Mahometans made themfelves mailers of that country. This tribe is defcendcd from the ancient Perfians, who worfliipped the fun and fire. They adore God the creator of the world, but have a tradition that Zer- toofl, or Zoroallcr, their lawgiver, fomc thoufand years fincc, brought fire from heaven, and commanded his difciples to worlhip it. The extinguifhing the holy fire, which is f.iid to be continually kept burn- ing from that period in their egarec^ or temples, is accounted a h.'inousfi:i; and they do not look with much lefs abhorrence on the putting out even any other fire. The coc. is likcwile adored by *"iis people, with as much devotion as the cow by ihofc. of the Banian tribe. They fet apart the firft day of every month for public worfhip, and have prayers alfo at fome other times. About a mile from Surat, where a colony of the Gaures refides, they have a repofitory for their dead, in which the bodies are piled up on ftages or raifeJ floors, furrounded by a wall, but uncovred; it being their opinion, that they cannot do their deccaltj friends greater fervicc than by leaving them to be devoured by birds of prey. It fecms highly probable that the Chriftian religion was planted very early in Iriia. According 'o their tradition, St, Thomas the apoftle preached here, "vA Aift'ered martyrdom on a mountain, now called St.' I'homas's Mount, near Meliapour, at which p'acc refides the poftcrity of thofe Chrilli?n% whoM tl:,e Portiijuefe found on their a'-val. That Chrirti..nity was really planted in Iiid' fore the RcmilTi fuper- ftitions were known in ■ country, is confirmed by feveral obfcrvations. T have no images in their churches but the crofs the priefts are permitted to marry once; they adi ifter the facrament in botll kinds to the laity; th. i:fc no extreme undion; and laftly, they remained ' lurant of the pope's jurifdiflion, till of late, that t : Qionaries have prevailed on them to acknowlcd h _ authority. The Moors or Mahometans having now the govern- ment in their hands, the language ufed at the Mogul's court is chiefly the Pcrfian; but that in which the Alcoran, and their religious books are written, is the Arabic. The Bramins or Brachmans, of which feil are the Pagan priefts, have a language peculiar to themfelves, in which Ikcwifc the vatious tioflrines and legends of their or; -r are rompofed. But the laity on the coaft of Coroniandel fpeak a tongue called the Gentoo, and thofe on the wed coaft another, dil- tinguiflied by the appellation of the Malabar; while the Portuguefe langu.igc is likewife fpokcn in all the maritime parts of Iiidiii, R T/ie i 66 II A' ODER U The Moors write upon p^por, but tlu'P/^-.ns with a ftcel bodkin upon u cocoa-rjt loat", two toot long, and about the breadth of three {infers. All their boolis are w rittcn, pr rather engraved, they not liaving the art of printing; and they write from the left hand to the right. To any degree of learning they can hardly pretend. They have however fjnic traditions concerning Arif- toile and Avieenna, and the Moors have fonie pall'.igcs of the Old TeUanicn: in the A^.-bic language, from the inhabitants of which country they are dcfcendcd. The Pagans begin the vear the fu.l of March, and the Moors the tenth of the fame month ; the latter celebrating a grand feflival during the interval between thofe periods. At this time, every governor and great cliccr makes a pcfent to his prince, who tlR;i nomi- nates to the fevcral offices in the government for the t.ifuing year. The fcience chiefly known to the inh.ibit.uits, ii arithmetic, in which^ by the help of their fingers only, they will cart up a fum fooncr than an European ihall with his pen. The Bramins calculate an cclipfe w'th tolerable exaflncfs, but in other parts of altro- nomv, arc deficient; and beiiit; igncrant of the globular figure of the eartli, they imagine, that when the fun fets, he hides himfei/ behind fomc mountain. They know however the figns of the Zodiac, which they ri.'ltinguifli by the fame names as in Europe. JJut their favourite ieic-;;.c is aftiology. None of their princes will uadcrcalce any thi.ig of moment, without confulting thofe v>h.T are fuppofcd to be converfant with this art. Though the Indian ph; licians are generally confi- dercd as very ignorant, it is certain that in fomc cafes they perform extr-jrdinary cures, particularly in the venereal difcafc, and the bite of fome fpeciis of fer- pents: v^hcther this fiiccefs be owing to their know- ledge, and judicioub application of fimplc , or, what feems more probable, to the ablK.ii, ice generally prac- tifed in India, in every difcafe. The mofl remarkable occurrence refpecling phyfical prefcriptions in this country, is their method of inoculation, which defervcs to be recited, on account of if 'xtraorJinary fucccfs. inoculation is performed in Hindoflan by a particular tribe of Bramins, who arc delegated annually for thut icrvicc. The inhal tants of the different provinces, knowing the ufual time of their arrival, obferve ftridly the regimen enjoined, whether they determine to be inoculated or rot. This preparation confifls only in abftaining for a month from fifli, milk, and ghee, a kind of butter made generally of buffalo's milk. When ' the Bramins b'-gin to inoculate, they pafs from hnufc , to houfc, and operate it the door; rcfufing to poiform ' on any pcrfon who has not ftricfUy obferv' 1 tl'.c p.epa- . ratory couifir enjoined tlicm. It is not unufual for ] them to afk the parents how many puilnles they choofe I tlveir children fliould have; and though vanity, more than well-founded confidence in their own fkill, might fcem to p. ompt fuch a qucftion, we are aflurcd by good authority, that they hardly ever exceed, or are defici- ent, in the nuir.bcr required, They inoeuiate inditle. rtnily on any part; but if left to their own choice, [Am A. they prefer llic culfi.le of ili; .Trni, mid-way between the wtift and the elbow for ihe males, and the fam,- between the elbow and fliould.'r for thofe of the other fex. After the operation whith, a t\::v fuperOitinui ceremonies excepted, is performed nearly in the ufual m.inner, the diet that had been prcvinuHy reeommeiuled, is or( the Jilcalc. c fhafp-pointc* 3;i; thur colour, iJ ilate. Con- cvhld, anj the '-■"ul'-w things ■'. The ,:u.afc ij hid on the ih, or ort'cring, 1 I'pocs. o pea lis arc fub- Jiis is the j^srt I'Jigcitiun, and ih the cholera a lej-hoi lon ilar applicatioB a cohc. India.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 67 '1 not iinknoivn been but very '' ithcr the ex- hus, whether cart any otlicr n the fubjca. of Alexander , to obtain zn tic continent. lofc conqucft ''■ 3 Tamerlane, mmcnctment Ills, but like- vafion of this '^'< been divided ■- , iiidepcndciTt • force of his :;i n, Miracha, rfia, as well ■-: lis pofterity. y. Miracha at in Pcrfi?, k 1 dominions. •i t and armv. ''•. )m the vafial ufcd by one neccllity of ymcnt of it. e made pri- foncr. foncr, but obtained his libcny on condition of rclin- quifliing for the future every frnil ir demand on the prince and his fucccfTors. Dcurniincd, however, not to abide by an engagement vvli ch necclTity alone had extorted, he no fooner arrived at his cupital, than he levied a powerful army, with which he immediately marched again into the territories of the rajah. This expedition proving more fuccefbful than the former, the prince was ni:.di; prifoncr in his turn j and fuch was the refentn'cnt of the conqueror, that he fulh d his victory by commanding the tycs of the untortunaic captive 10 be put out. Tradition however relates, but will*. whit truth is doubtful, th^t Miracha fell a fa- crilice to the rajah's ucraciiiy as an archer, even attcr this event. In the reign of B.ibar, the great grandfon of Mi- r.icha, a v.iir broke out bciwei.ii him and another prince of the pollerity of Tamerlane, when the former, lofingthc city of .S.iinareand, tvith his Perfian provinces, made Delhi the capital of his dominions. Invading afterwards the Indian princes on the fouth-ci(>, he conquered the kingdom of Patau or Patna, \ hich lies upon the G.ingcs, and is contiguous to Bengal. Having rcigncc thirty years in India, he was fuccccde-j by his fon Amayuiii, whom unmerited confidence in a youth who had acquired his friendfliip, betrayed into an aft of imprudence which terminated in thelo.s of his crown. To the rank of commander of his army, and prime-minifter, he had raifed a young Patan lord, named Chira, who taking every opportunity of ingratiating himfelf with the Tartars and Indians in the Mogul's army, and being extremely concerned to find his native country treated as a conquered province, entered into a confpiracy againft Amayum. The latter receiving intelligence of his dcfign, artcmblcd a body of forces, and gave him battle; but being defeated in the engagement, he fled into Perfia for protedlion, while his ungrateful rival was immediately after pro- claimed fovercign of Hindoftan. The royal fugitive was received at the court of Perfu with all the marks of cordial attachment, and with promifes of afliftance towards reftaring him to his throne. When he had waited nine years, however, in fruitlefs cxpedlation of this event, advice arrived from Delhi, that Chira was accidentally killed by the buifting of a cannon, which he went to fee fired ; and that the Moguls and Patans could not agree in the choice of a fuccefl'or to the empire. It was farther reprcfcntcd to him, that he had now a fair chance of recovering the throne of his anceflors, by returning immediately tn Delhi. Loling therefore no time in communicating the informal on to the Sophy of Pcrfia, that prince afforded him a body of troops ; marching with whicb to India, and being joined by fuch of his I'ubjecis as continued in his intcrdt, he again took pofieffion of the crown. To | with provifions, it was taken after a ficgocf two years; while he wa; was w.ilking over the fcifTuIdiiig, intent on givin^j diici!li()iis to the workmen, by \\v: .Tij-ping of a plank he fill Ircm a great hiii>.ht to the oround, and received fo violent a contufion tliat he ahnuft in- ftantly expired. Air.iyum was fucceed.:d on the throne by his fon Akebar, a young prince of a martial and entcrprizing difpofition. The Moguls having hitliirlo l.iJ no communication with llv- fea-coad of InJi.i, whence a very great trade' was carried on wi'h the Ivimpca; r, p;ir- titularly f'omthe kingdom of Guzurat and Cambaya, he determined to atteiupt the reduifiion of thofe important territories. Sultan Hadar, cr IJahadar, a Maliometan prince, of Arabian dcfcent, was a: that time (oveieign of the country, and engaged in a war with the Porta- gucfe, who had lately taken from him the town of Diu, fituate near the entrance of the gulph of Cambaya, almoft oppofite to Surat, On receiving intclligLncc that the Mogul was advancing with his army, the con- tending parties, dcfpairingof being able to oppnfc him fingly, thought it prudent to make a peace, and njiite their forces againft him. The utmofl: exertion of their ftrength, however, though fuftained by Euj"pean artil- lery, proved infufficieiit for the purpofe. The irref ftiblc army of .\kebar bore down all before them. The lultan fled precipitately, but his children were made prifoners, and put tc death by the invader, who took poffefllon of the whale kingdom of Guzurat, except Diu, and fuch other teiw;,i ui had been previuufly fortified by the Portugut •, Animated by this ficccfs, Akebar invaded Dccan, which lies fouth of Guzurat. Here he was met by the united forces of Muflapha, king of the country, of the queen of /Vmadanagar or Candc, and of Ambar prince of Doltabad. The army of the allies, how- ever, was totally routed, and their capitals furiendered to the conqueror. Miiftapha was permitted to bear the title of an Indian r.ijah in Akcbar's court ; tlie queen of Cande, notwithltanding her avowed aver:i'>:i to the Mogul, had the diftinction of being numbered among his wives, and of retaining the title of queen ; but the prince of Doltabad was killed in an engagement during the war, and his territories fcized by the enemy. Not content with thofc acquifitions, Akebar next turned his arms caftvvard againft the country of Chitor, then fubjedl to Rama, who pod'ciled the dignity of rajah. This prince, having entered into a confederacy with fcvcral of the neighbouring powers, ventured to oppofe the Mogul; but bein:: foon obliged to quit the field, he retired into his capital city of Chitor, feated on a high mountain, and naturally one of the ftrongeft fortrefles in India, But notwithftanding the advantage <.i its fituation, and its being likcwilc well fupplicd this prince it is, that the Indians afcribe the building of caravanferas or houfes for the entertainment of travellers, and the regulating weights and meafures. After his rcftoralion he built a mod magnificent tomb for himfelf, which is to this day eftecmcd one of the greateft curiofitics in that country; but he enjoyed not the pleafurc of feeing the ftrudlure completed. For and with it the reft of the country fubmittcd to the arms of the Mogul. Some hiftorians reprcfcnt th's cnter- prizc as the conlequcnce of a paflion which Akebar entertained for the rajah's wife, a woman of extra- ordinary beauty, but whom he had never feen. With greater probability however, it delcrvcs to 1-e imputed to the infatiable third of conqncfl, which hitlierto marked ;^;!S' <68 T n E MODERN marked the charaiHcr of this ambitious and w.iiUlcc prince. Akcbar fecms henceforth to have ilevotcJ himfclf to the arts of peace, in buiUIing of fine towns, ami pro- moting the traffic of his fubjcfls. He it likcwifc was, who planted the celebr.ucJ avenue of trees, extending from Agra to Lahor, near five hundred miles; under the fhade of which a traveller might be Ccrccncd lion\ the fun in the liottcfl day. His attention to iIkI'c works, however, was at intervals fufpcndcd by fomc infurrejlions, which he in the end fupprcfTcd. The Topifh miflionarics in India had conceived great hopes of converting this Mogul to Chrillianity j but though his apparent moderation in rcfpcA of religious matters, might render their conjecture not improbable, the event which they expefled never happened. He is faid, however, to have introduced a r.cv religion, in £ R CHAP. I. Of the fituttthn^-biiundar'ni^ftici of tin coimtry—-feas mm~rlvtrs — air^— xvinds and fecifom •— prtvinas-— titici—pul'Hc and private linHdin^i, TV/f ODERN Pcrf.a is bounded by the mountains "^*-'- of Ararat or Dagiftan, which divide it from Circaflian Tartary on the north-weft; by the Cafpian Sea on the north ; hy the river Oxus on the north-cafl; by India on the eafl ; by the Indian Ocean, with the gulphs of BafTora and Ormus, on the fouth ; and by Arabia and Turkey on the wefl. It is fituatc between 45 and 67 degrees of caft longitude, and between 25 and 45 degrees of north latitude; extending in length from north to fouts about twelve hundred miles, and nearly the fame nur. ler in breadth. It comprehends the ancient pro\inces of Pcrfia Proper, Parthia, Media, Hyrcania, Baflria, Drangiana, Arachofia, Gedrofia, Sufiaiia, Caramania, and part of AflVria. Of all the countries in Afia, this may juftly be reckoned the moft mountainous ; containing, 1. Mount Ararat, on which the ark is faid to have reftcd, and which extends from the Euxine to the Cafpian Sea. 3. Mount Taurus, with its fcveral branches, running through the middle of Perfia, and obtaining liifFerent names, according to the provinces on which they border. 3, The mountains which divide Media from Hyrcania, 4, Thofe between Hyrcania and Parthia. 5, The mountains which divide Fars, or Perfia Proper, from Hyrcania, the chief of which is Mount Jarron. Except the hills of Curdcftan and Hyrcania, which arc covered with trees and herbage, the moft of thofe mountains are barren rocks. Between them lie many extenfive fandy plains, or dcfarts, where no water is to be found, cfpecially on the fron- tiers of Turkey and India; intcrfperfed, however, with fome fruitful valleys, in which the principal cities ftand. Hyrcania not only produces corn in great abundance, but is well planted with mi:lb' ry- trccs, the foundation of their filk m3nufa(^urcs, [Asia. which he retained the baptilrn of the Chrillians, the circumcifion of the Mahometans, an 1 iliij idolatry of the Pagans; but this fantallic mixt\irc of difVcrcnt rite$ appears to have proied of fhort duration. Prom the time of Akcbar, who diid ill 1605, the throne of Delhi has been fucctdlvely occufiicd by a race of princes, almoft uniformly dillingu.llud by volup- tuoufnefs and aifls of rebellion againll their f.iilieis. Aurcngzcb, howi ver, ;hougli not free from the latter of thofe charges, was entirely exempted fi rin the former. His moderation and eempcrjiiec wcie fuch as are feldom pradlifed in the luxurious courts of tho eaftcrn monarchs ; and had his charaCler not been hil- lied with the imputation of hypocrify, he mijlit be confidcted as a pattern of virtui-, hijhly W'niliy the imitation of the future fuvcrcisiiis of his ccuniiv. I A. The feas of Perfia are the Indian Ocean, with ths gulphs of Dan'ora and Orinus on the foutii; and on the north tho Cafpian Sea, which is more propcily a lake, having no communication with any ka, but entirely furrounded by land. According to fomc geo- graphers, the Cafpian is tour hundred miles in lenglli from north to fouth, and two hundred in b, -uli; out in rcl'pcil to its extent, there are difFcrent accoiinta. It is, however, acknowledged to be the largeft lake with which we are acquainted in Afia, and receives the waters of many rivers, In this fea there arc no tides ; but hard gales of wind either fiom the north or fouth, raife its furface three or four foot, and fomctimcs more: after which the water returns to its ordinary depth, with a prodigious current, and confufed agitation of the waves. Thofe changes are for the moft part ir- regular in their duration and return; but once in fifteen or fixtcen years it ufually overflows, and deluges the furrounding fiat country. The feas of J^ollura and Ormus, formerly called the gulph of Pirfia, lie on the fouth- weft part of the kingdom; and through them is carried on a vaft trade by the Armenians, Banians, and other nations, Bof- fora and Gombron being the chief ports. During tho time that the Portuguefc were the only Europeans who navigated the India Seas, the little iiland of Ormus was one of the grcateft marts for trade in the caft. The united rivers of Tigris and Euphrates, which rife in the mountains of Armenia, run towards tlx I fouth-eaft, near the confines of Pcrfia and Turkey, and arc difchaiged into the gulph of BoHora. The river Oxus divides Peifia from Uftjcc Tartary on the j iiorth-eaft, the river Kur, the ancient Cyrus, rifes in j the Dagi.ftan mountains, and lunnin^j fouth-eaft, joins I the river Arras, formerly Araxes, their united ftream I falling afterwards ir.to the well llde of the Cafpian Sea. Thole being the chief, and aliiioll only navigable livers j in Perfia, the inhabitants of the country cuUccf fcveral I finall rivulets, and convey them by arched aqucduifts 1 to their fields and gardens, fomctimcs at the diftance ' of Prf.fiA.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. i^ (if thirty or forty miles, Tliis being doni; at the public cxpencc, every one pays a tax to the govern- ment, in proportion to the quantity of water received on his grouiil. 'Ih'.- nunurous mountains unJ deep valleys in this country, render the air, which would othcrwile be ujiifornily hot, of various digrccs of iPiiipir.iturc in the diiKrent parts of the kingdom. In the inland provinces, during the winter, they have feverc frofts, accompanied with fnow, on the mountains) but in the valleys, the feafon is much milder, and there is very little fnow, A high w^ d generally prevails from March to May; after which, till Scptciiibir, tlie Iky is perfeflly ferene, and the days very warm j but in the evening and morning arc rcficfhing breezes, which render thofe hours the moll ciiJivenient both for plcafure and bufinefs. Not the leall dew or moillure falls during the fummer months in this part of the kingdom, and in winter it fildom rains; but the principal advantage of the interior provinces is, that they arc extremely healtliful. The air in the fouth of Perfia is far lefs falubrious, IS the European fa£)ors at Gombron have too often experienced, efpecially about either equinox. In thofe pait«, tiie moiuhs of June, July and Auguft, are the moft healthful, but fo excciTtve hot, that the inhabi- tants then retire to the mountains, which are at all times cool cjiough, even in the hotted countries. In the defarts on the fouth of Perfia, where the winds blow over a long trail of burning fand, from the cafl, they arc exceeding hot in May and June, aud fomctimcs fatal to travellers. There is feldom liere any rain to cool the air in thofe months ; and the rain>water which they colledl in winter, becomes then extremely unwholfoinc. It is obferved, that the fouth of Perfia, vvhicli lies near the tropic of Cancer, is hotter than any country fituate even under the equator, on account of tlic fun's continuing vertical .'1 lunger time. Modern Perfia miy be divided into fixtcen province;, the hiundarics of which, however, are not exactly the fiiiie with thofe that conftituted tho feveral divi- fions of the ancient kiniidom ; fome having received an addition ofterritoiy, while olliei s, on the contrary, have been diminiftu.l. The fixtcen provinces are, Ellcr.ibat, Chorall'an, Sahluftan, Sigiilan, Makeran, Kurinan, Farrift.nn, Chuilftan, CnrdeHiii, Erac, Ader- b-eitxan, Chiivan, (^.i^iitiii, Ciil.m, Mazanderan, and Cieorgia, in the lilller of which Mingrelia is in- cluded, The chief towns of the province of Eflcrabat are, Efterahat, and Thufmcchid j the capital of Choradan is Herat; and th<; chief towns of Sabluftan arc, Gazna, Biift, and Candahor, Thofe three provinces lie in the north -eaft of Perfia, and contain part of the ancient Hyrcania, RaiSria, and Margiana, The ehief towns of Sigiftan arc, Sigiftan, Maftich, and Robin; and thofe of Makeran, a cognominal town, Paflir, nnd Tiz, Thofe provinces are iltu- ate in the fouth-eaft part of Perfia, and comprehend the ancient Arachofia, and Gedrofia, or the greater part of thrm, No. 6. Of Kerman the chief towns are, Kcrman, Bande- rabafli or Gombron, Salam, Diirabeycrd, Tuberaii, and Jafques. Durabcyerd was the ancient PafagardjB, the royal rcfidencc, and the favourite place of Cyrus ; where he conquered Aflyages, the Mede, and cliofe to be buried. His monument was afmall tower ihaded with trees, in a garden or cnclofure, of which no veftiges now remain. Of Farnifian or Fars, the principal towns are, Schiras, ruins of Perfepolis, Lar, and Bander Congo, The two laft mentioned provinces are fituate in the fouth of the modern Perfia, and comprehend the greater part of the ancient. The city of Perfepolis ftood near the Araxes, and, according to Diodorus, was built out of the fpoils uf the Egyptian Thebes, Here are the mofl magnificent remains of a palace or temple, that are any where to be fcen. They lie on the north-eaft end of the fpa- cious plain where Perfepolis ftood, and arc conjcdlurcd to be part of the palace of the fame Darius who was conquered b', Alexander, and which the latter, in a drunken fit, caufed to be burirt to the ground, at the inftigation of the courtefan Thais. The building w.is five hundred paces in length, and the whole contained fixty acres of ground. It ftood upon a hill, and was afcendcd by ninety- five fteps, thirty foot in length, twenty inches broad, and three inches deep. The ground ftair-cafc which remains, divides as we afcend it, one part to the right, and the other to the left ; after which they meet again in a fquare landing-place. Here we enter a portico of fine marble, twenty foot wide, on which arc carved, in bafs-relicf, two animals of the fize of elephants, but Ihaped like horfes, with the feet and tails of a bull. There is the reprefenlarion of other beafts with wings, and their heads like thofe of men. From this hall, we afcend another double ftair-cafc, leading to the upper apartments, on the walls of which is carved, likcwife in bafs-relitf, a grand proceflion, with (land- ards and various offerings, fuccecded by a chariot drawn by horfes, and bearing a little altar, from which the fire fecms to afcend. On the other fide of the fame apartment, are reprefented wild beafts, amongft wliich the principal figures arc a lion and a bull, ftill entire. On the top of the fecond ftair-cafe alfo is a large fquare, which, as appears by the pe- deftals that remain, was furrounded by a hundred columns, of which fcven are yet extant. They confift of red and white marble, fluted; fome fixty, others fevcnty foot high, and twelve of them fix yards in circumference. Thofe, it is conjcdlurcd, fuftained the temple of tiie fun. On the (amc floor, is a room fifty foot fquare, in which are figures of yet finer marble, cut in bafs-relicf and half-relief. They re- prcfent men fighting with lions, and a man holding a unicorn by the horn; fome figures of giants, and a king giving audieirtc to ambafladors, with infcriptions not defaced. The charadlcrr, however, are un- known to the natives of the country, and are equally unintelligible to the learned in Europe, for whom they have been tranfcribed. On the whole, the remains feem to exhibit evident proofs of its original magni- S ficence. T 1 1 I' M O 1) n R N [Asia. ficcncr, iifit*itlili;iiiiling Tavrrnicr ficnu to entertain ' obftnidnl by the croiiJ. The I'lju.irci, however, trf. but A mi'in opinion of its nncicnt gr.mJcur. 'I'hu , very rp.iciouii, uiui the biiilUiti^H granJ, cfpecially the place i» now called, ChilniriKir, or thi- riipty I'lll.irs. ; Royal Mcydan, into which two of the pal.ue patci open. (^f the two provinces in the l(juili-weft of Pclli.i, I iUis I'ljuarc is ahuiit one third of a niilc in Irnjjih, which comprehend ji.irt ol the ancient Allyria, the and half ai much in breadth, with piazzki in two tlucl towns are, Arnova, Couriicliad, Wallet, Han , fides of it, in which tlic tr.idcfnien have their fliups. iIithW, Kleinais, whence the ancient reillans were i I'holc places arc far from beiiii; conimodiou'* j lor the called Llainites, and Scliciullcr, the ancient Shulhan, | paflage within the piazzas has no other light than what the Iceiic ot niieen Kllher's hillory, I is received by narrow openings, left at a diftancc from i:)rac, or Irac Agcni, which is the larged province each other, and the people ridu under the covering, in tli kingdiim, is lltunto near the center of it, and I In the middle of the ftjiiare is a market for cattle, is the ancient I'arihia, Its chief cities are, Ifpahan t and al! forts of provifion. The tradefmen's houl'es or bpahawn, the metropolis of the nation, with | Oand in n difTerent part of the town, at a diflancc Cafliin or Cul'win Com, Hamadan, Cafhan, and i from their fhops. Yeld, On a mountain near the lall of iliofe towns, The palace is fituate almnft in the middle of the it is faid that fome of the pricds of the ancient Perfuni | city, and is about three miles in circumference, having rcfidc, who arc employed in prcfcrving the celcflial in the front a fine walk of trees, and a ref^ivuir of fire, which, according to tradition, has burnt in- celliiiily iipwaids of two thoufiiid years. '1 he principal towns of Adcibcli7.an are, Ardevil or Atdcbil, Sultania, with Tauris or Tabris, the ancient Kcbatana and capital of Media. This city, which ftood on a gentle declivity, diftant twelve flaJia from Mount Orontes, was built, accotding to Herodotus, by Dciuces, king of the Mcdes. It was cncompadbd with fevcn walls, each of a different colour, and the utmoll of which ineafurcd an hundred and fifty Hadia. The towns of greatefV note in the province of Shirvan are, Derbcnt, Baku, and Shamukie, I'hefe two provinces arc fituatc weft of the Cafpian Sea, and comprehend the ancient Media and Albania. The chief town of Dagiftan is Tzantzcni ; and water. Two of the gates open wide into the market- place ; upon entering the principal of which, there is on the one hand a court, where the prime vi/ir and afliflant judges hear caufes ; and on the other a limilar building, where criminals are allowed to take fanc- tuary. Parting thence through a grand avenue, we arrive at a great hall, where the king gives audience. This apartment is divided into three floors, one a flep higher than the other, on which the great officers of the couit arc admitted according to their quality. Beyond thofc ftages, is a kind of long gallery, richly adorned and open in the front, where the king fit* crofs-legged on a carpet, with cufliions at his back and under him, and a canopy over his head, Uf the inner parts of the palace, and the haram or women's Georgia, including Mingrelia, has for its principal apartments, we have little account. It is only faid towns, Teflis, Julpha Janca, and Naxivan, where it in general, that the king's women live n feparatc is faid that Noah's ark relied. The countries of | houfcs, furrounded with gardens, in which arc plea- Dagiftan, Georgia, and Mingrelia, are fituate in the i faiit groves, canals, and fountains; and that he frc- iiorth-vvcft part of the modern Perfia, and comprehend [ ([uciitly hunts with the ladies in a park cnclofed by part of the ancient Colchis, Iberia, and Armenia. Either in Georgia, or Mingrelia, was the ancient Colchis, celebrated for the voyage made hither by the Argonauts, in fearch of the guluen fleece. 1 he chief towns of Gihii are, Gilan, Rext or Rcfcod, and Farrabat ; and thofe of Mazandcran are, HazarofF, and Danmogan. Thefe tv.'o provinces contain great part of the ancient Hyrcania. Several of the places which have been men- tioned are confiderable cities j but Ifpahan, as the capital of the kingdom, deferves a more particular dcfcription. This metropolis is fituatc In 32 degrees 30 minutes north latitude, and in 50 degrees of caft longitude, in a fine plain, furrounded by mountains three leagues high walls, where no men ever approach. The other public buildings in the city arc their mofques, bagnios, caravanferas, and refervoirs. Their mofijuts arc ufually covered with domes or cupolas, and have a kind of minarets or flcnder Hecples, which the priefts afcend every day, to call the people to prayers. Of thofc there arc about a huiulred and fifty in the city. The courts of the grand or royal mofques are entered by gates covered with filver plates ; and on each fide of the court are cloylters, in which the priefts have their apartments. The entrance to the mofquc is by three grand doors, which lead into the iflcs, adorned with gold and azure. The cupola in the middle is fupportcd by four great fquare pillars, and the floor of the diflant on every lide. It is of an oval form, about 1 mofquc is covered with carpets. Two largo wiii- twclvc miles in circumference, but deflitute of walls. | dows on the top give light to the whole building; The ffrcets are narrow, unpaved, and fome of them the roof is covered with fliining tiles of dilTercnt arched over, with openings to admit the light. They colours, after the manner of Perfia, and the walls are generally dirty or dutty; for though there be here I adorned in the fame tatlc. No images or piiSiires are no wheel carriages, yet as all people of fafhion ride through them with numerous equipages, and as camels and other hearts of burden, with goods or provifions, are r .nfiantly cither going or returning from the mar- ket-place, the pafTagcs never fail of being much ever luft'ered in ihcfe temples; neither arc there any feats or pews in them, hut a pulpit, from which the mollas or priefh fonietimcs harangue the people. At entering the mofque, all pcrfons, of whatever rank, put ofT their (hoes and nippers, The kkia] C K N !■ K A L T R A V F, L L F. II. 7« ,' he bajjiiioi nre Iilccwllc i^'.riiiKr biiil. 7a T n MODERN ' ''• .(oai;'"' ' ,^V-«- :>IT<. »-- 1 t < I t The drugs produced in Perfia are, fcnna, f;il armo- niac, rhubarb, caflia, and gUm ammoniac, with pop- pies, which are highly valued for the ftrength nnd quantity of the liquor they yield. The Juice is c\- trafied from them in June, by making incifions in the head ; and it is obfervcd, that the people employed in this work arc extremely liable to paralytic coi.iplaints, particularly tremors. The liquor drawn from the poppy foon becomes thick, and is then made up into pills. Afla fxtida is another drug indigenous to this country, and which the Pcrfians reckon a.s a pcifume. From a rock there alfo diftils a gum, on account of its fragrance diftinguilhed by the name of mummy, and wiiich is faid to perform many cures. But there is here another Ibrt of mummies, refcmbling much .:;*»»;;b»k. 1 cw iiiitcts are to oc lecn in the inlciior parts of I'erfia, on account oi the dryncfs of the foil; but the Mis arcofifn iiifcflf.-d with locuRs, which fly in fuch fwarms, as to intercept the light of the fun, dcftroy- ing every green vegetable where ihey happen todcfccnd. Providentially, However, fome birds villt the country at the fame (vM'on, nnJ eat up thofe emigrants, to the no fmall relief of the farmers, who would othcrwift' be ruined by thfir dcprciLit'ions, The country adjacent to the Cafpian is rarely infcftcd with this teuihie plague, but it is over-run by alr.-ioll every kind of noxious infcifls and reptiles, as fcrpCntJ, fcorpions, toads, &c, Thefe being dcftroycd by the furnmcr heats, or for want of water, they lie putrefying on the ground, and contribute to tender the air of the country unhealthful, J Domeftic Persia.] G EN ERAL TRAVELLER. 7i Domeftic fowls of every fpeciei are in great plenty, I'xcept turkeys, which do not thrive in any part of the Prrfliin dominions. Pigeons are in vaft number, and the partridges la ge and well tailed. The pelican, called the tacob, or water-drawer, has a body as large as that of a iheep, but a very fmull head, and the bill is above fixteen inches long. Under the latter grows a large bag, which fome relate will contain a pail of water. This cavity anfwers the purpofe of a refervoir for the ufe of their young broody for thofe birds having always their nefts in the dcfarts, muft fometimes fly to an incredible diftance for water. Eagles and birds of prey are much propagated here, being taught to fly at all forts of game, whether of the winged or quadruped kind; for this method of hunt- ing is the chirf rural fport in the country. The Tinging birds are of the lame fpccies with thofe of Europe, and there are feveril parti coloured birds which have beautiful plumage. Sparrows abound to that degree, that the farmer is obliged to retain men for the purpofe of driving them from his grain. In a country where there are fo few rivers, and noft of thofe dried up in the fummer, it cannot be expected there fliould be much river- fifli; nor is fea- filh to be met with at the capital city of Ifpahan. But in the gulph of Perfia in the fouth, and the Crfpian on the north, there is great plenty of fea-lifli; as there is of river-fifli in the Kur and Arrat, which fall into the Cafpian Sea. In the gulph of BoflTora, on the coaft of Arabia, they £(h for pearl oyfters} this part of Arabia, flyled the province of Bahara, being fubje£l to the Perfian crown. About a hundred yeari ago, this was one of the greateft pearl fiflieriea in the world. The turquois ftone is the mod valuable jewel in the country. Thele are found chiefly in the province of Chorafl*an, near Nifiapour or Nixabour. Here are no gold or filver mines, though a fmall quantity of filver may be extraded irom their copper and lead mines, of which, as well ^is of iron, they have feveral. Sulphur and falt-petre are found in the mountains between Mazenderan and Erac, and antimony in Carmania. There are plains ten or twelve leagues in length, covered with fait; and in other parts, fulphuf and alum are found likewife on the furface of the ground. Near Hamadan, and in Sufiana, are quarries of red, white, and black marble, with fome of a mixed kind j and that which is dug in the neighbourhood of Tauris is almoft as tranfparent as cryftal. The moft confiderable manufa£lure in Perfia is that of wrought filk, fuch as fattins, tabbies, taffatees, brocades, and gold and filver tiflues. Their rich filks are all of a very durable quality, and their gold velvet alfo is much admired. The bell looms are at Ifpahan, Calhan and Yefd. Their iineft carpets are mixed with filk, and far exceed thofe of Turkey. Camblets, with filk and worftcd iluflTs, are made in Carmania, and goat's-hair (luffs in Massenderan j and they make fome callicoes, but inferior to thofe of India. Their embroidered leather exceeds any thing of the kind. Their tanners ufe no bark, but fait and gall* inftead of it. The braziers and tin-men work very well, and No. 7. their armourers make good fwords, as well as gun- barrels i but the artifts here do not attempt gun-lucks, no more than clocks or watches, which are purchafed of European merchants. Cut! ry ware is made with tolerable dexterity, as alfo are llecl mirrors, which they ufe inllead of looking-gUdes ; having not yet acquired the art of nuking the latter, though they can fabricate window-glafs and glafs bottles. Archery being flill in ufe amongft them, the making of bows is a confiderable trade. They are formed either of wood or horn, bound about with the dried finews of animals, finely painted and varniflied. The firing of the bow is of twifted filk, and their quivert made either of 'filk or embroidered leather. The making earthen ware is another manufaAurc which they have brought to great perfe£lion, much beyond the Dutch ware, and almolt equal to that of China, The goods chiefly imported from Perfia are raw and wrought filki, mohair-yarn, goat't-wool, leather, wine-fpirits, dried and preferved fruits, dates, pifla- chio nuts, almonds, carpets, galls, pearls, raifins, rofe-water, falop, afla fztida, gum tragant, opium, with other gums and drugs. The Englifh import chiefly raw filk, carpets, camels and goats hair and wool, which are brought either by Turkey, from Gombron, in the gulph of Boflbra } or by the Cafpian Sea, and the river Wolga, through Ruflia. The Englifh Eaft-India Company trade but little to Perfia on their own account, but till lately made confiderable advantage by tranfporting the merchandize of the Armenians, Banians, and Moors, from Gombron in the gulph of Ormus, to Surat in India, This trade however with Gombron, and other parts of Perfia, is now difufed. The king being the chief merchant in this country, his factors, the Armenians, have the refuial of what- ever is imported, and carry on a trade for the court in almoft every country. As there is here no heredi- tary nobility, a merchant is elleemed a very honourable profeflion, and the greateft officers of the kingdom da not think it beneath them to engage in commerce. CHAP. III. Of tit enifiitutitH—gtviTHmint^^'Unvt — tu/limt'-^ Jiras—revtHuet—i/aram, DERSIA, like the other nations of the Eafl, is an ^ abfolute monarchy, modelled ftri£lly by the prin- ciples of the moft uncontroulable defpotifm. Not only the life and property of every fubjed are at the fovereign's difpofal, but he can deprive them of either without any judicial trial, and even without an accu- fation. This power, however, is faid to be exerted only againft the governors and great officers of (late, whofe influence might render it difficult to bring them to juftice, in cafes of delinquency, by lefs rigorous procedure; for with refpcA to the bulk of the people, they are feldom oppreflfed by the crown. The title of the fovereign is fliaw, or pat(haw, tht difptftr ef king- d»mt\ and the princes of the blood are ftyled mirzas. The king ha* no fianding council, but advife* with T kit 74 THE MODERN [All/). his visir or prime linifter, and whom elfe he pleafcs. No public lA of royal authority ii of force, until countcrfcaled by the vizirs a ^ oper reftraint, con- fidering the extreme ignorance of thofe princes who have received their education in the feraglio. The next great officer in rank it the divan beghi, or bey, who is prefldent of the fupreme court of jufticc, and the laft refort, either in law or equity. The other perlonagrs of diftin£)ion at court are the general ifllmo, the fecrctary of flate, the lord treafurer, and domellics in high ofHcc, with the mirah or lord of the waters, who has the diredlion of all the aquedu£is in the king- dom. The lord chamberlain, who is always a white eunuch, has generally, as well as the ladies of the feraglio, great influence on the affairs of the (late. He fervcs the king on his knees at table, taftes hit meat, drcfles him, and is feldom out of his prefence s conftantly carrying, for his majefty's ufe, fome fine handkerchiefs, and a box replenilhed with perfumes, opium, and cordials. The Perfian throne is commonly faid to be heredi- tary, but the king transfers it to which of his fons he pleafcs, and fometimes orders the eyes of the eldell to be put out; for by the laws of Perfia, a blind man can- not inherit any more than a princefs. But though the latter be deemed incapable of territorial fucceffion, the righ is admitted in her fon. In every province of the kingdom there h a cham or viceroy, who llvei in the ftate of a fovereign prince, and commands all the forces in his department. This office is fometimes continued for life, and it is not un> ufual for the fon to fucceed to the father's government, when it happens that he is acceptable to the court. The king, an 1 not the cham, appoints the lieutenant- governor, und the other important officers in the pro- vince. One of ihofc is a vizir, who not only has the jurifdiAion and difpofal of all the crown lands, and the fubjcfls upon them, but is treafurer and receiver- general of all the taxes and revenues. The fubje£ls are for the moft part grievoufly opprefled by this officer, who ufually procures his place by bribing the eunuchs arid minifters at court, and promiflng to encreafe the public revenue, which he fails not to perform by fleecing the people; whom he farther oppreOcs, to enrich himfelf and his patrons. The meaneft of the fubjc£ls are allowed to lay their complaints before the king, but they arc often countera£ted by the artifices of the eunuchs and courtiers, who (hare the plunder with the vizir. When a charge againft the viceroy !s preferred by any province, the deputation by which it is fent ufually confifts of feveral hundred men ; who planting them- felves beforo the gate of the palace, fet up a miferable howl, rending their cloaths, and throwing duft into the air, while they demand Juftice of his majefty. The king fending an officer to know their complaint, a petition is prefented in writing, which is referred to the fecretary to examine, and report the fubftance of it to the king. If the complaint be found juft, and the crime very notorious, a perfon is difpatched to take off the governor's head, carrying with him the lieutenant-governor to fee the fentence executed. If he meets the delinquent, he falls upon him direAl/ with his fabre, and cuts him in pieces, there being no common executioner in Perlla. If the offender be in the women's apartment, be comes out and fubmits to the execution. It is feldom, however, that they prceeed capitally againft a vixir or receiver of the king's revenue, as his extortion is ufually reprefented to be of fervice to the government, and the difplacing him is of as much advantage to the king, as the taking olF his head. The irrevocable laws of the ancient Medes and Perfians are no longer known, having pcrifhed, it is probable, with the conftitutien to which they o'.ved their exiftence. At prefent, in Perfu, as in every Mahometan country, they have no other law but the Alcoran, and the comments of the ecclcliaftics upon it. The priefls enjoy the privilege of being judg;s in all cafes, both civil and religious; but fuch as are cri- minal, the governors take upon them to decide, not however without this authority being protefted againft by the priefthoud. In refpe£l to the judgments of the king, cr his viceroys, they are all arbitrary. The law in cafes of debt is extremely fevere. If the debtor be unable to pay, he is delivered to the creditor to be dealt with as he (hall determine; the latter having it in his power to fell him, with all bit family, or make flaves of the whole, if he pleafes. All perfons here plead their own caufe, the wcmen as well as the men; only the former are veiled, and have a particular part of the court affigned them to ftand in. The principal bufincfs fo> which they ap- pear before a judge, is to obtain a divorce. They ufually ground their aiHion on tne impotence of their hufband, and are always on thofe occafions exceeding clamorous. There are no prifons in Perfia; but when an of- fender is apprehended, he is carried to a magiftrate's houfe, where he is confined till his trial, which gene- rally takes place the fame or the following day; when, if convi£led, he is immediately executed by fome of the magiftrate's fervants. But if the criminal has been guilty of murder, he is delivered to the relations of the deceafed, to be tortured and executed in what manner they think fit ; though there are inftances of thofe wha have committed murder obtaining a pardon, by bribing the judge, and giving a large fum to the other party. For petty crimes, it is ufual for men of fubftance to commute; but where the ofl^ender has not money to buy off the punifhment, he is condemned to the baftinado; that is, to receive a certain number of blows on the foles of his feet; not lefs than thirty, or more than three hundred, by which it fometimes happens that they are rendered cripples for life. The befl remedy in this cafe is fatd to be, to put the fuf- ferer's feet into a hot horfe-dun'ghill, and foment them afterwards with fpirits of wine. Houfe-breakeis have their right hand cut off; coiners have the famo punifhment inflifled on them for the firft offence, and for the fccond their bellies arc ripped open ; after which, they are dragged in this (hocking manner through the principal flreets of the town, the cryer going before them, and proclaiming the offence. I Othec GENERAL TRAVELLER. PlRSIA.J Other punilhmenti likcwire ire infliAed on cipital oflfenden. One of thofe it lumbling them down from a tower, or deep precipice, which i> urually the method of treating women who have been guilty of fome extraordinary crime. Another it fetting the convifled perCons up to the neck in the ground, the fun beating upon their heads all day, and the flies and other infefls tormenting them till they expire. To extort confeflion from a criminal, they fometimes have rccourfc to the rack, but the ufual way of proceeding is by means of the baftina and female Saves. But they are fo clofely confined in a diftinA part of the haraoi, that, except with their mother, who fometimes retires with them, they are prohibited from all converfation with any other but the eunuchs, who perform the part of fetvants, but are in reality fo many fpies upon their cpnduA. There is no where to be found a colleAion of more beautiful young women, than in the haramc of the IMabotHetaM princes. They have not only the choice of all who are made prifuners in war, but of thofe who are purchafed in Georgia and Circallia. Befides, if any governor of a province or town has notice of any celebrated beauty in his government, he immediately fends her to court ; which her parents are fo far from thinking a hardfbip, that they confider the event as aufpicioui to the fortune of the family. While the king is without children, every lady is ambitious of being the mother of the (irft fon, by which Ihe would obtain the title and power of a fultanefs, and * her fon might fitcceed to the throne. When the king, however, has fons, they never defire any child- ren, but endeavour to procure abortion, as foon as they find thefflfelves pregnant. The reafon of which is, that they fhould live in perpetual apprehenfion of their oflFspring being murdered»or at leait of having their eyes put out, to prevent them from being advanced to the throne, in prejudice of the eldefl prince. The views therefore of the court ladies, whom the king has taken to his bed, are to be married to lome governor or great officer. For this end, they endeavour to gain the favour of the queen-mother, or the reigning queen, <. on whofe recommendation they are fometimes difpofed of advantageoully : or the minifters apply to the queen- mother, to beflow one of the virgins upon themi for none are allowed to touch any of the ladies with whom the king has ever been familiar. Such laJies as arc married to any of the great officers, are much happier than thofe they leave behind them in the feraglio. They have the government of all the reft of the wives and concubines, whom their hufband may entertain, and are treated in almoft every refpeA as queens. The hufband finds it his interefl to in- dulge'them in all their pleafuresj their own advance- ment and fecurity depending very much on the repie- fentations thofe ladies make to the queen-mother, or the reigning queen, of their condudl. The women in the feraglio fomecimes are fo numerous, that it becomes expedient to marry them oiF, on account of the ex- pence of their entertainment, where every one has her particular apartmsnt, and a numerous train of fervants to attend her. Before any of the ladies vifits another, (he muft obtain leave of her governanie, who is placed abbut a her to watch bar conduA, that no quarrels may erif« amongft th« rival miftrefTcs in the haram. Some re- late, that the reafon of this caution is to prevent ths ladies from carrying on an amour, and falling in love with each other, which is faid to be an event not uncommon. According to the rrprefcntition of the women who frequent the feraglio, ami fell them toys, it is amazing to behold the proofs of this mutual paf- fion, and the contrivances which are the coiifcquenccs of it. As the bufinefs of thofe ladies is chiefly to divert their lord, they fing, and dance, and play before him, or entertain him with fprighily con- verfation I but there is a neccffiiy ut his being extremely cautious in exprcffing a particular attachment tu any of tuem. The appearance of fuch. a prcdileiflion would immediately mark out the favourite hs an objeSk of jeatoufyi and notwithflanding the utmoll care of the lover, he is almofl inccfl'anily perplexed with their plots to ruin each other. The king is never married, or contradied to any lady, but fhe that has the firft fon is the queen of the haram as long as he lives. Should he die, however, and the fon of any other miftrefs become heir apparent to the crown, the honour is then transferred to the mothei of the furviving offspring. Amidft this numerous afTembly of rival beauties^ the fituation of the monarch is far from being favour- able either to enjoyment or repofe, Confidering him as their tyrant, rather than their lover, they fubmit to his gratification only from the dread of his power ; while he never can experience the pleafure which arife* from a confcioufnefs of being beloved by the perfon whofe mutual afTedion he mofl ardently Wifhes to obtain. Surrounded by flatterers and hppocrites of both fexes, he is equally a ftranger to the delicacies of love, and the delights of friendfbip. There are no mofques or chapels in the haram, or women's apartments. For as they exclude all terref- trial ladies frodt paradife, believing them to be made only for men's pleafure, and the continuance of the fpecies, there can be no occafion for their reforting to temples, in order to prepare themfelves for heaven. They are permitted, however, to lead an indolent and luxurious life, indulging themfelves in every pleafure but liberty, and an agreeable companion, without which all the reft muft prove infipid. It is the general opinion of the Mahometans, that in a future tUte they fhall be accommodated witli a race of celeftial beauties, formed on purpolie for their enjoyment ; though fome of the Perfian doAors hold, that the women fhall havt a heaven to themfelves. The lung's women never vifit out of the palace, which, however, is open to the viflts of their female relations. When he removes, he is always attended by fome of the ladies; and a party of horfe marches before the vehicles in which they are carried, crying out couruc, couruc, and firing their fmall arms to give notice of their approach. On thofe occaflons, all men are required to remove from their habitations, in the towns through which the court is to pafs ; and it it death Cor any to be found within view of the road. The PeKtiA.j GENERAL TRAVELLER. 77 u»rfeli may ttih ir«m. Somt re- i« 10 prevent the nd fMng in love be an event not ^rentation of the 'I (ill tliem toys, tliii mutual par. ihv! Cdiifcqiiencci n>»l beauties, n being favouv-> Confidering him er, they fubmit ' of hit power; pleafure which beloved by the ardently wiflies id hppocrites of the delicacies of the haram, or lude all terref- em to be made nuance of the «ir reforting to '«» for heaven. )n indolent and every pleafure "ion, without t it the general iture Ihte thejr eftial beautiei, ^ (hough fome men fhall hare of the palace, f their female wayt attended horfe marches irricd, crying I arms to give Dccafioni, all abitations, in ' pafs { and it if the road. The I'ho eunuchi wlio guard the ladies, are ufually caflratcd between fcvcn and ti-n yean of ycuri of age ; if delayed till the a^'c uf puberty, the operation it reclcont.J exceeding dangrroui. Of tl.ls clafs of fir- people make a grander appear.tnce abroad. They mount tlu'ir honci with a fpiendid retinue, almoll every day, fliuulJ they riJe but a quarter of a mile. Un account of thii extravagance in drtfi and equipage, vantt (he king retains three or fjurthoufand in Il'pahan l however, they are generally extremely iieceflituus. ■nd other royal palaces. Every man of figure likcwife keeps fume of them in liis family, where they ai^ the part of ftewardi, at well ai guardians of the females ( and 10 fuch at arc qualified, they commit the educa- tion of their children. There are both black and white eunuchs in Perfia, but tlic former arc mod numerous, and the ugliell always preferred. CHAP. IV. 0/ thi ftrfmi — habit— /ntd—falutathnt— divtrfiam— mtlhid of travMng-—(haraatr if thi Pirfiam, THE Perfians are of a moderate (lature, well, proportioned, with good features and com- plexions, except jn the fouthern provinces, where the latter is injured by the exceffive heat. Their hair and cyei are black, and their heads fhaved, unlefs in the middle, where a lock is fiiffered to grow. The bulk of the people cut their beards fliortj and the mollat or pricAs wear them long, only cutting them into form ; while the great men and the foldiert wear large whifKcrs only, and the natural robe of puberty never fails tu be icmovcd. The men cover their heads with large turbai.ts, of which fonic are very rich, having gold and filver flowers interwoven. Next their flcins they wear a kind of fliirt, made of filk or callico, but without collar or wriObands, and the fleeves fit clofe to their arms. Over the fliirt is worn a waidcoat, above which is • loofe coat, tied with a fafli. They ufe drawers reaching down to the calf of the leg, with woollen ftockings, not fhaped to the limbs, and flippert with picked toet of Turkey leather. Infl^ad of a tiirbant the ladies wear a fliftened cap, refembling that of a grenadier, but much left. They alfo ufe a coat or veft, which reachet down to their feet. Their hair is braided and adorned with jewelt, cither natural or factitious. The married ladies tie their hair back, and bind round their temple a broad ribband, fet with jewels, in the manner of a coronet; and both the married and Angle wear feathert in their caps. Edeeming large black eye.browt at a mark of beauty, they frequently have recourfe to art for ac- quiring that accomplifliment ; and in the fouthern parts particularly, they likewife paint their faces. They wear jewels in their ears, and necklaces of p;ar1, which hang down gracefully, having a gold box fallencd to them, containing rich perfumes. Both men and women are expenfive in their cloaths; their vefts being generally made of rich flowered and brocaded filksj and an ordinary turbantwill roll ten pounds. Their falhcs, which are alfo brocaded, will fometimes coll a hundred crowns. In winter, the gentlemen often wear fables, a fuit of which may amount to a hundred pounds. The furniture fur their horfes is alfo exceeding rich, the bits and tlirrups being of filver, and the houfing embroidered. No No. ^, When they rife in the morning, they take a difli of cotTec, and about eleven o'clock eat lemons or other fruit and fwcet-meatt, but their principal meal it in the evening, Thit often confiftt of a difli of pilau* made of rice and fowls, or mutton ftewed. Sometime! the meat it baked or roafled, but always to an extreme degree. If iuflead of rice they eat bread, it it thin cakes, baked upon the hearth for prefen: ufe. Thejf in general abfiain from the flcfh of all the animala which the Jewt were forbidden to eat) likewife eating no fait meat, and but very little fait to their mealtj owing perhapt to their food being alwayt highly fea- foned in dreffing. In townt, private people ufually purchafe meat ready drefled for their families at a cook't (hop, and feldom drefs any in their own houfct. They take up the rice by bandfuli, ufing no fpoon* except for milk or foup. They wafli before and after eating, and their handkerchief fervet inftead of a towel. At their mealt, they either fit crofs-legged, on a cloth fpread over the carpet, or loll upon cufliioni. They hofpitably invite flrangeri to eat with them, and if any vi£)ualt be left, diftribute it amongll their poor neighbours. The ufual drink is water or fherbet, cooled with ice. Wine is feldom ufed by th: Maho> metans, but the Jewt and every fcA of Chriftians drink it here very plei.tifully. In''-"' of ftronj liquor the people of f: "iion chew v/,.ium, which, though it exhi'iiates a little at firft, depreflcs ihefpirit* foon after, and demands a repetition of the dofe. After an elegant fupper, it is ufual to entertain the company with mufic and dancing, of which the latter is performed by courtezans. The manner of falutation in. Perfia and other eaftern countries is the .ery reverfe of that in Europe; for the pulling off the cap or turbant is the greateft affront that can be offered to a fuperior, and they keep their heads covered even within the walls of their temples. They fa'.ute a fr his prophet, I'hc commandments of their religion are, to obri.rve corporal purlficatiuns) to pray five times a-da)'( to give alms ) to fall in the month Ramesan i and to go un pilgrimage to Mecca, To this fyftem the Perfians add another article of faith, vix. that Hali is the vic.nr of God. By the firft article, that there is but one God, they mean that there it but one perfun in the divine cITcnce, in oppofition to the Chriftian doflrine of a trinity. They hold that good works are neither the caufc, nor the means of falvation, but only an evidence of the favour of God, and the man's being intended for happinefs. They believe that all fouls were created before the world was made; and fome of them even maintain the Pythagorean doArine of tranfmigration. It is their opinion, that our bodies (hall not be changed in any material circumdance at the refur- reAion, but that they will neither be deformed, nor fubjefl to any infirmities. Some of their doflors re- probate the notion of eternal punifhmenf, holding that after a certain time the wicked will be annihilated i and all concur in the belief, that there will be degrees of rewards and punilhments, according as men have behaved. Some of them expedl a fenfual paradifi;, and that corporeal pleafures will be the reward of the virtuous} while others interpret fuch promifcs in aa allegorical fenfe, holding that the happinefs of heaven will confift in being employed about fuch objefls as are proper for the foul, in an increafe of knowledge, and the fublime operations of the underftanding ; and that the body alfo will have pleafures fuitable to ita nature, but which will itot confift in meat and drink, or a gratification of the animal appetites. Others maintain on the contrary, that the joys of heaven confift entirely in fenfual delights, but fuch as are far fuperiour to thofe that are the portion of this life. As to the duration of the world, they believe that it (hall not be dilTolved at the laft day, but changed and puri- fied, and may be the habitation of blefTcd fouls to all eteriity. T'.\c Perfians call Hali the vicar or lieutenant of God, and exalt him fometimes above Mahomet. They hold that he was of a divine nature, that Goain rulei and cercmoniali are prefcribcd. Out kind ii called vtaftn, whereby only the walbing of the (tzt, handi, and feet, are re- quired ) and this it to be obferved after fleep, a fwoon- ing fit, and every fenfible evacuation of the body. The other purification ii called fujftl, which confifti in waftiing the whole body, and muft take place be- fore fume extraordinary a£ti of devotion, on a pilgrim- age, or in a time of fafting. To render ihofe luOra- tionj meritorioui, they muft be performed purely upon account of religion, without any defign of pleafure or convenience) and the devoteei are to exprefi themfelvei in the following manner, vis. Ipirftrm thii ail tfpurifi- llk'li, which i» ai'plicd to chiriiabic uf«« uhdtr iht tliic^kion of the priclli, who liave fur their nuiiiteiMiicit certain UnJt nnii rtvcnuci appr»;in.uril lu their rcfiicdtive templci. Th< vutuntiry cuiitnbuti'ii) ii applied to the fupport ol the faquirt or bcgi'inj; friari, the reJeemiiig uf flavci ri^oroully ircuti'd, the rilicf uf jiil'ulvent Jtbiori, and ni,inj;eri in dilltefi, uid lu wotlu of public tJvan- t»gc. What the rcrfuini unJerHjiid ly i fad, il « total abftiiiciicc from all noiirifliment and carnal enjoyment?, from the break uf day till night, with in intent to picife Ctud. 1'he principal of thii kind ii that which ii celebrated in the month Ramczan, and may properly be culled their Lent. At the firll appearance of the new moon, which introducei ihik fcafon, the cryert belonging to the mofqiiei proclaim it in great number), and a hymn ii funn; upon the occafion t the flrcct being illuminated, the horni foiinJ>n;<, and the people exptcfTing their joy by loud and univerlal ac- clamationi. Immcdi.iti'ly after they prorccd to the bathi, where they all Wiilh thcmfelvci prcvioully to the entering on their dcvotioni. During the fad of Uamcznn, the cryers proclaim every evening, from the mol.|ues, when the people are permitted to cat, which is when half the fun'i dilk is below the horizon. From this limr, till the fame hour next evening, the puritanical part of the people abftain religioufly from food ; but there are many fpend the whole night in revelling, regardleft of de- cency, and the ofrcnce which they may give to thofc of more rijjid principles. In general, they fpend a great part of this month in devotion ; and though they do not fcruple to engage in buAnefs, yet theChrinians find more difficulty in tranfa£ling it with them at this feafcn than at other times, efpecially towards evening, when their long fading has rendered them peeviih. Bcfides that of Ramczan, the Pcrfians have two other fcllivals ; one of which is the commemoration of Abraham's facrificing his fon> and the other the death or martyrdom, as they call it, of HolTein and Uaflcn, two of the ruccefTors of Mahomet. Thofc at Ifpahan, who obferve the feaft of the facrificc, mount their horfes early in the morning, and riding out of the city, facrificc a (heep or a goat. Theii returning to their houfes, they caufe a great number of the fame kind of animals to be killed and diftributcd amongd the poor. There is one general facrificc of a camel, at which the king is prefcnt. The vi£lim being de- livered to the populace by the king's oiEcers, they adorn him with garlands, and lead him through the city, with the mufic playing before them, on the lirft day of the fead. I'his ceremony is repeated daily twelve times, during which the camel is attended by crowds, to the houlcs of all the chief men of the city, who throw money and diftribute provifions among the people. He is afterwards led out to a field at fome diftance, whither the king with the crown upon his head, and the whole court repair. Here the camel being caufcd to kneel down, with h\s head towards Mecca, and fitmc prayers ud'cred up by the pricft, hs It wuundi'd with a Unce by the dcrage or govrnur of the city 1 who nt the fame time prays, that (iod nuy (huwer down his blcniii|>s on the king and people. The camel's head is then cut off, and prefented to the king: the icli uf the body being dillributed to the fiva great wardj, into which the city is divided. A pariU cular family in each ward has the privilege of keepiirg the f.icred flclh, which it faltcd up, and pr«rcrvcd till the next anniverfary of the fcdival, when il it cut intt> fmall pieces, a.id fcnt to the principal inhibllanti, who entertain the populace on this fulemn occafion. The feftival held in commemoration of HolTein and IlalTcn, lalli likewife twelve days, during which tim« altars are erc£led at every corner of the flrcelt, with armi and irophiet piled upon them. All the houfet are illuminated at night, and in every quarter the pricfts har.ingue the people, on the hidory of HolTein, exhorting them to revenge hia death upon hit enemies, meaning the Turkifl) (t£\. At this time, it Is ex- tremely dangerous for a Turk to appear in public, the whole nation refuunding with, Curftd bt Omar (one of the TurkiOl patriarchs) iht gnat tntmy of HaH, In the midd of thofc frantic exclamations, the people often beat their breads, and cry and howl like men in the mod affliAing circumdances of didrefs ; roaring forth at intervals, Huffiinf Htjftin ! till they bcconw ulmod unable to fpcak a word. The more to incite the fu.y of the populace againd the Turk), many mournful pageants are carried through the dreets, wi(4i the wound.'d bodies of Hodein and his friends, lilt the rage and refentment of the fpe^ators is worked up Co fuch a pitch of enthufiafm, as if the adored oI)je£l of their fuperditious veneration were perifhing before their eyes; During the whole fedival, people of falhion fend for the priedt to their houfes, to hear the tale of Hofiein and HalTen repeated, for which they make them hand fume prefentt. People of all rankt are ex- tremely charitable at thit time) and the king daily entertains four or five thoufand pcrfuni who follow the proceffion. The Mahometans confider it at a duty, to go once in their life in pilgrimage to Mecca, where their pro- phet was born, and to the kebba or houfe of God at that place. In performing this fuperditious journey, they are frequently fo much harraflied with the ex- aiflioni impofed by the Arabians, for the privilege of paning through their territories, that the Perfian duiSiors have declared there is no neceflity of making thofu pilgrimages in perfon, but that they may be performed by a deputy { fince which time, numbers of people get a comfortable fubfidence by that office, This method of employing a fubditute is likewife by far tlte cheapcd, efpecially to perfons of rank. The common fare of thofe deputies is only about fifty pounds dcrlingj but fuch an expedition is feldom made in perfon under two hundred pounds, and fometimes a thoufand. When a Perfian dies, who has not performed this pilgrimage by himfelf, or by proxy, the cadi (an cc- clefiadical magidrate) feizes on as much of his ededtt, as theexpence of the journey would have amounted to, and employs it in fending a perfoii to Mecca, for the good PiaiiA.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. Si good of l*i( dead man'i foul \ but irtificcri ind ibt lowtr cUft of the ptopit ire not required to perform •U'ncy, I'M whole pil|[rimage, efpecUlly if they . 11 .hi' prnphct'i tomb ii Mtdini, do«« not lake up Icfk than* year. Thofe who have pcrforined it are in great honour arnoiign their counirymcn when they return, and have the epithet //'i( arc confirmed, and fumeiimei sppomttd by the Pcrfii ■ government i for which the great men who prefer them expeA a handfome prcfent. The Armrniani faem to believe the doArine of tranfubllantiation, but not that of purgatory ) though they believe that good men, after death, r. main in • (late where they know no other joy before the refur- region, hut iheconfcioufnefi of * rell. fpent life, and the expeAation of the rewardi annexed to it. They adminifler extreme unAion, and in baptifm the trine immcrfion, after which the child it anointed with their holy oil. Their faftt take up one half of the year, at which timet they abftain from flc(h and fi(h, and neither clergy nor laity lafte any food till the evening. One of their moft folemn feftivalt it the baptifm of the croft, in memory of the baptifm of our faviourj at which time the Mahometani at well at Chriftiant a(DII in crowdi, and the king it fometimet prefent at it. The Armenian bifliopi and clergy go in proceOion to Tome river or grand fefervoir, with a croft carried b«« fore themi and after fome prayers being read fuitabi* to the occafion, and Tome anthemi fung, the bifhopi plunge the croft into the water feveral timet i every on* endeavouring to get near enough to be fprinkled with the water, which it fuppoftd to convey fpiritual pri- vilcgea equal at leaft to thofe of baptifm. There are likewife a people in Perfia named St. John'* Chriftiant, whofe religion is a mixture of Chriftianity, Judaifm, and Mahometanifm, and wha have received their title only from their great veneration for the croft. They hold that God it material i that the angelt are of both fexei } that the next (late will differ from the prefent, only in being infinitely moro perfeA and agreeable { and that all of their own per* fuafior, after being purified from their fint, will enjoy eternal happinefs. I'he priefthood amongft them ia hereditary. Before they enter the (late of matrimony, the prieftt and the relationt of the intended bride vifit the lady, and require of her an oath that (he is a virgin. But not fatitfied with thit enquiry, the prieft'a wife it fent to infpe£l her, when, if (he be declared a maid, the prieft bapticet both parties, and th« nuptial ceremony it performed! after which t.e calls lots, tu know the critical hour for confumiuation. Thit likewife having taken place, the bridegroom waitt on the bifhop, and informt him of the tokens refpe£iing his fpoufe't virginity. If the declaration of the hufband coincidet with the prooft which had for« merly been taken, (he it henceforth reputed virtuous » but if otherwife, (he bean the charaAer of a courtesan. It it computed that there are not left than twenty thoufand familiet of Jewt in Perfia, who are tolerated in the profefEon of their religion. They were for- merly a rich people, being the principal ufurers in the kingdom) but the Baniant of India have fuccecded them in thit bufinefs, and they are at prefent but little regarded. Many of them are artificeri, while I others pretend to magic, and to tell fortunet ; and X their 8« THE M O D E R their women, who fupply the Itdict of the harams with toy), frequently infinuite themrelvet into their favour by their prediSions, and the love potioni which they pretend to prepare. CHAT. VI. • Of Imguagi "•— IcltHcti — ,irtt— m.vrriaji-^divirci— fi'Hiralt ^—miurniirg, THE mordern Perfians being defctnded from the Arabs, their language bears a great refemblancc to that of their a.iceftors. They have twenty eight letters in their alphabet, of the Arabic chara£ier, all confonants : the accents are properly their vowels, by which their confonants are founded. They ufe no flops, commas, or paragraphs, in their books j but begin every fentence with a large letter. The Turkilh language is now fpoken at court; but it it. in the Arabic that the Alcoran and moft of their boo.'-.s are writteii. They hav« nnt yet received the atr of printing. Their paper is made of filk and cotton rag., extremely thin, and brsrs but on one fiAt; and infttad of goofe-quills, they make their pens of reeds. They write froir. the right hand to the left, and en- tertain s fuperftitiou* reverence for the paper on which ar.y ehara^n are infcribed ; efteeming it a crime to burn or tear any manufcript, much more to put it to any dirty ufe, left imc name ef God, Mahomet, or fomc faint or patriarch, Oiould be written upon it. Even paper on which there is no writing, they hold ought not to be defiled, being intended for recording the precepts of their religion, or for other ufeful purpofe?. Judicial aftrolcgy continues to be a favourite (ludy of the Perfians, as well a^ in the times of the ancient Magi. The profeflbrs of this fcience at prefent are all natives of Ba£lria, the modern Chorafian, and are exceeding numerous. Some thoufands of them are conflantly retainea in the pay of the crown, who, it is faid, fhare amongft them annually a reve:-.ue of four hundred thoufand pounds The falary of the chie^ aftrolog;r is valued at ten thoufand pounds a year; and befiics this eftablilhment, the king nftnlly makes them ptefents amounting to two hundred thoufar ^ pounds. Thf. principal men of the order always attend the kinp;'s perfor>, i-o in^.ffl him of the lucky and unlucky mo'.ients when any th^:ig is to be (ranfa£led. They are ccnfultcd not only in matters of iin,iortance, but in thofc of the moft frivolous natu e; as when it may be proper for his majefty to go abroad, or anter the women's apartment; defcending even to f^cify the particular hour at which he ought to eat. In delivering a prediflion, it is ufual for them, like the other oracles of old, to ufe doubtful and ambiguous exprcffions, by which means, whatever may be the event, rhey generally have the addrefs to preferve ihcmfclves from the imputation of i|>norance or ftilf- huoil. Nor is the pra<5liL'c of this policy a difficult matter at court. For having a great fhare in the ad- miniftiation, they are able to judge with a degree of certainty, what occurrences are likely to happen. But [Asia. cxclufkve of this circumftance, the fupetftitioui regard that is paid to their prediiSlions, is fuScient in moft cafes to infurc the accomplifliment of them ; though there ii reafon to think that, by the princes, they are ufed rather as engines of flate, than as perfons really endowed with the fpirit of prophecy. They have their offices in all the great towns in Perfia, particularly the capital, where they work upon the fully and ''uper- fticion of the people, whom they govern accoiding to their own inclination, or the fecret inftruiSlions of the court. Next to judicial aftrology, they afFeft to cultivate aftronomy, arithmetic, geometry, natural and moral philofophy, and the knowledgeof the Alcoran. They begin their year at the vernal equinox, when the aftro- nomers are employed to make an ejcaA ol 'ervation of the moment a', which the fun enters Aries, At this feafon, the great officers of ftate and governors wait on the k'ng with congratulations, and wiflies for a happy y<:ar; offering at the fame time a hand> fome r>refent, which is likewife fent by thofe go« vernors who live at a diftance. Their ep:erfons. For the lirft vifit they are allowed the vi-.lue of two guineas, and on every fucceeding occafun, the half of that fum. Both they and the furg.'ons are entirely ignorant of anatomy ; and in refpedl to thofe of the latter pro- feffion, they have here but little bafinefsi the tempe- taturo GENERAL TRAVELLER. FERIfA.] riture of the \ir being Ikch, that grain wounds htal alnwft without any affidance, and the inbabimntt arc not liable t6 thofc diftcmperi which proctted from a corruption or flux of hunloura. BcCdti fevers, to which the Perfians are chiefly expofed, the ch<:;ic, dyfentery, and dropfy^ tre dif> eafe* frequruc amongft them i the latter of which is imputed to the immoderate ufeof a cooling regimen in febrile diforders. For the cholic they iifually prefcribc burning and cauterising, and for the dyfentery rice- gruel, and milk boiled with rice till it is dry. The plague feldom vifiti Pcrfia, though Turkey and India, the contiguous countries on the eaft and weft, are much expofed to its ravages. The gout, ftone, and fcurvy, are likewife exceeding rare, but near the Cafpian Sea the yollow jaundice is very common} and the French- pox, though not fo violent as in Europe, is extremely frequent in all the provinces of the kingdom. The warm bath is here u.ed in almoft every dif- temper. At day* break, a fervant announces, by the found of a horn, from the roof of the bagnio, that it is ready, when immediately the men aflemble, who may perhaps continue to occupy it fucccf- fively till four in the afternoon. The male fervanta then retiring, the women come drefled as fine as pof» fible i thi3 being the only opportunity they have of Jhewing their cloaths. Men of figure have baths in their own houfes, as fome others alfo have, and let them out to Itrangers after their own families hslve been accommodated. Sculpture and painting ve at preftnt very littlfc cultivated in Perfla, though it appears from the ruins of Perfepolis and other ancient buildings, that in former times the inhabitant* were extremely converfant with the prafiice of the liberal arts. The fame reafon that promoted the advancement of painting in Europe, feems amongft the Petfians to have proved the caufe of its decline, as well as that of frulpture. They are prohibited by their religion from introducing either pictures or images into their temples } and fome of their puritanical do£iors preach a2:;inlt the forming an image or picture of any ap'.nal whatever} every (tith reprefentation being, according to them, a fpecies of iJolatry. Notwithftanding the difregard of ;he Perfians to the arts of painting and fculpture, they are extrerrttly at- tached to poetry. Every man of figure retains in his family a poet, who produces his compofitions when his patron makes any cntertainm< .it{ and there hard)}' is a place of public refort, inhere you may not meet with feveral competitors of this elafs, who vye with c:ich other in exhibiting proofs of their genius. The Perfians are reputed to be greater proficients in p!)Hty than in any other branch of learnings their imagination being fruitful and lively, and their language having a foftnefs peculiarly adapted to the harmony of verfifi- cation. They are fo fond of rhyme, in which they are much nicer th.-in in their numbers, that they gene- rally mix it with all their profe compofitions, and even fieqvently Introduce it in their copverfation. Their Hyle ij for the moft part highly figurativt and hyperbolical, difcovering M thatwarmth of fancy and 6 8! abruptnefs of iranfiticm, which diftinguifli the oriental manner of writing from that of the nations Of Europe, As a fpecimen of their poetry, the following profe tranflation of a ghi\iel) or Perfian 4Je, is fubttiltted to the reader. The original was wvitten by Mahoitimed Shemfeddin, commonly called Hafefe, Who i'lvcJ in the fourteenth century. " Ho! come! O cup-bearer, citrry roifnd the wine, and prefent it ; for iove appesred pleafant at fitft, but difficulties hiveJiHci happened. " In hopes of the perfume which at length the zephyr (hall difTufe from that forehead, <' From her waving mulky ringlets, how much blood will flow into our hearts. " Stain the facred carpet with wirte, if the mafter of &'. houfe commands theei « For a traveller is not ighorint of the Ways and manners of houfes of entertainment. «' For me what room is there for pleafure in the bowers of beauty, when every moment <• The bell proclaims, '• Bind on jtur burdeKs." •< The darknefi of the night and the fear of the waves and whirlpool are fo dreadfttl, " How ein they kno» bur fituatlbn, the bearers of light burdens en the fhore } '< All my voluntary afiiens htve tended RniWf t» prtcnrt me a bad n*me; << Far how caii thit (tcret remain cdticealed, of which they make converfatioH f " If thou defireft tranquillity, negleA not this ad-uict, O Haf^z, " When thott fhalt poA'cfs her thou loreft, bid adieu to the world, and abandon It." Of the merit of this ode a mote exaR Judgitmeht may be formed, from the fubfeqaent paraphrafe, 2h -.^hich, without deviating from the fcr.fc or f'.ntimeht of the original, a kind of connefied whole is made but of a number of apparently disjointed parts. «« Fill, fill the cup with fparkling wine. Deep let me drink the juice divine. To foothe ttiy tortur'd heart : For love, Who feem'd at fi«'ft fo »ild. So gently loot'd, fo gaily fmil'di Here deep has pluAg'd his dart. When, fweeter than the damafk rofe. From Leila's locks the zephyr blows. How glows my keenf defire ? I chide the wanton gale^s delay, I'm jealous of his am'rous play. And an my foul's oh fire. To love thi flowing goblet drain, ' Wkh Wine the fatired tarpet ftain. If your gay hoft irivite; ; For he. Who treadi the mtlaiy rfiurttf Of mighty lovr's enchanted ground^, KnoWs all his laws and rites. But longer, 'midft the young and fair. With happy mind and eafy air, Can 1 delighted roam ? When, hark ! the heart-alarming bell Proclaims aloud, with difmal knell. Depart, thy hour is come ! The I THE M The night now dukcns tU sround. Now howl the windt, the wave* refound } We put to meet no more : Our dreadful fate jow can thry know, Wbofe tranquil hour* unruffled flow Secure upon the fliore f How many tale* doe* flander frame, And rumour whifper 'painft my famet With malice both combine: Becaufe I wifli to paf* my dayi, Defijifing W ^at each fnarler fays. With friet. <{hip, love, and wine. But, Hafez, if thou wouldft enjoy, Ecftatic rapture, fouUfelt joy, Blefl a* the powers above. Snatch to thy arms the blooming maid. Then, on her charming bofom laid. Abandon all for love." The mufic of the Perfian* is not equal to their verfe. They never fing in parts, but alternately, or one after another, and generally to an inflrument not unlike the lute. Singing and dancing are not looked upon as creditable employments, nor will people of fafhion fuffer their children to learn either; but for the moft part they retain bands of mufic, confifting of both fexas, who make it their profeflion, and ent«Min the company at feftival*, and other joyful occafions. In all the great towns of Perfta there are public fchools, where boys are intruded in the Arabic, and arithmetic, whence they are removed to the medre* or college*, to acquire the fciences, a* they are taught, and the principles of their religion. In fone places the youth are inftruAed by gentlemen of diftin&ion, difcarded. courtiers, and others, who perform the «ffice gratis, with the view of recovering a loft repu- tation { nothing being confidered as a proof of greater generofity than devoting their attention in this manner to the fervice of the public. The Ferfians never feeing their wives till the day of marriage, an ambafiadrefs is commiffioned to take a view of the intended bride, and make a faithful report with refped to her perfon and circumftanccs. When a contradl of marriage is made, it is regiftered befote the civil magiftrate, without going to the temples and the bridegroom fends the bride a habit, with jewe!» and crrsTojnt; f-iitable to his rank and fituation. Nex; day, towards evening, he mounts his horfe richly ac- coutred i and attended by bis friends, and a band of mufic, proceed; to the houfe of the bride's father, on the way to which hr. is met by her, with a fimilar train of attendants, but is veiled, that her face is not feen. The companies being joined, they march to the bridegroom's houfe with lighted flambeaux, drums, trumpets, and mufic playing before them. At their arrival, the bride is introduced to the apartment in- tended for her, to which the hufband foon follows, who is now fur the firft time favoured with a view of her perfon. The Perfians fu- in no hade to marry their Tons, but furniO) them with female flaves, till advantageous matches may occur. Love is the fmalkfl inducement 1* [Asia.' to the entering into a contraA of marriage, erpccialljr among people of fafliion, who are generally governed- in this cafe by mercenary motives. According to their law, every man is p'-rmitted to have four wive* bf ' contract i but they feiJom have more than one, and Ihe i* often taken for no other purpofe than to be a governef* to ''cr hutband's women, who are in reality her fervants, though .hey be admitted to their mafier'a bed, and their children arc deemed a* legitimate a* the iflue of the wife by cuntrait. There is no fuch thing as a baftard ; nnd the offspring of a con- cubine or Have has an equal (hare with any other child in the eftate and eflc<51s of the father. The age of marriage in Perfia, is nine years for the girls, and thirteen for the boys. Divorces are eafily obtained, where both parties are equally difpofcd to a reparation. The chief caufes or. either fide are a violation of the conjugal engagement, on the part of the wife by unchaflity, and on that of the hiiiband by fpending his time chiefly with his con- cubines, or by impotency. Upon a divorce, the wife is entitled to the dower contraAed for at her marriage, when it was not through any fault com- mitted by her, that the privilege of repudiation was granted; and in this cafe, after her death, the eftate defcends to her children. When » man appears to be dying, they fet up lights, and kindle fires on the terrace of the houfe, as a fignal to paflengers and their neighbours to pray for him; and the mollah or prieft being lent for, he ex- horts the dying perfon to repent of his fins. The latter having faid, tauit, I repent, repeats after the mollah the following creed. " I believe there is 'jut one only God, who has neither companion nor equal, and that Mahomet is his prophet. I likewife believe H»]y and the other eleven Imans are the true fucceflbrs of Mahomet, and as I have lived in this faith, to (hall I die in it.'' When the perfon expires, the relations and friends fet up a difmal howl, rend their cloaths, tear their hair, beat their breafts, and behave themfelves like people in theutmoft agonies of forrow; intermingling their complaints with the moft tender expreflion: to the dead body, as if it were fenCble of their grief. Th5t, by which the Jcwt were peimitted to return to Jeruf.ilSlion of Pelufium, was fucceeded by his fon Pfameticus, who in a general en- gagement with the AITyrians was defeated and made prifoner. He was treated by the conqueror with great humanity, and reftored to his throne; but en-> deavouring again to render himfelf independent, was put to death at the order of Cambyfes. Having fubje£led Egypt, Cambyfes proceeded tu in- vade Ethiopia, whence however he was obliged to rC'* tire, after lofing a great part of his army by famine and various hardfhips ; while another body of his troops, that had been fent to invade Lybia, were deflroyod by a whirlwind, which raifed the fands in thofe defarts to fuch a degree, that the whole army was covered and fufTocated. Thofe different difaders appear to have extremely afTeiSicd the mind of Cambyfes; for henceforward his reign was dillinguiihed by a t fuch ails of cruelty niuft alienate the afFo(5{ion of his fubjeels, Cambyfcs ordered him to be put to death ; but thole to whom the care of the exe- cution was committed, obfcrving the king to be in- toxicated wilh liquor, and imagining that when fober he would repent of the order h^- had given, delayed to carry it into aft. For this difobcdicnce, however, he commanded them all to be murdered next day, notwithftanding he rejoiced greatly to know that Croefus was alive. In the eighth year of his reign, returning through Syria towards Babylon, he received advice that Smerdis, an impoftor who pretended to be his brother, had ufurpcd his throne. On mounting his horfc, Cam- lyfes fell upcn his own fword, which happened to be out of the fcabbard, and received a mortal wound in the thigh, of which he foon after died ; the Egyptians affirming that it was a judgment upon him, for wound- ing their god Apis in the fame part. Smerdis, the ufurper, was the fon of one of the Magi, governor of Babylon, and rcfcmbling the mur- dered brother of Cambw'.s, was acknowledged by the people as their fovcreign, on the death of the latter ; the fuccefs of the claim being-facilitated by the autho- rity of his father. The impuftor, however, being difcovered by the want of his cars, which were cut ofF for fome ofTence he committed in the reign of Cyrus, he was fet upon by the nobility, and killed. Darius, who gave him a mortal wound, afterwards cut ofF his head, and cxpnfcd it to the people ; the fight of which fo enra2cd them at the Magi, that they facriiiced a great number of that body, and an annual feftival was inftituted in memory of their deliverance from this ufurpation. On the death of Smerdis, the tradition is, that the confpirators agreed to meet at fun-rife next morning, each mounted on horfeback, when he whofe horfe iirfl: neighed Hiould be acknowledged as fucceil'or to the throne; and that the lot fell on Darius, by a (Iratagem of his groom, who had brought a marc to the place the precedin? niglit, and fliewed her to the horfe. But by whatever means Darius obtained the empire, he endeavoured to ftrciigthcn his title by marrying No. 8. ArtofTi, the fifler and tvifeof Cambyfei, and Arifton:), another of the daughters of ('yrus. It was thii Dariui Hyftafpes (the Aliafuerua of the Scripture), who publifttcd the cdift againfl Ilaman, in favour of the Jews, at the requcll of queen Eflher, and com- manded the building of the temple to be continued, at the cxpcnce of the ftate. Darius removing the feit of the government from Babylon, which had now been rebuilt, to Sufa, or Shuftian, fome mile contents took advantage of his abfence, and attempted to render Babylon an independent kingdom, Collefting a body of forces, Darius laid flege to Babylon, which having invefted for eighteen months, without any profpeft of fucccft, he at lafl reduced by a (Iratagem of Zopirus, one of his generals. This officer deferted to the Babylonians, and pretending to have been barbaroufly treated by Darius, infinuated himfelf fo far into the favour of the citisens, as to obtain the command of their troops. He then betrayed the place into the hands of his maftcr, who caufed the walls to be de- moli(hed, and impaled three thoufand ef the citizens that had been mod aftive in the revolt. His next ex- pedition was againft the Scythians, in which the greater part of his army perifhcd in the defarts; after which, having pafled over into Greece with a nume- • rous army, in order to be revenged on the Athenians for the affiftance they had given the people of Ionia, he was (hamefully defeated in the memorable battle of Marathon, and obliged to rcpnfs the Hellefpont with confiderable lofs. Egypt revolting foon after, Darius made great pre- partions for invading that country and Greece at the fame time, but died before his army was alTembled. He was fuccecded by his fon Xerxes, who immediately marched into Egypt, which he reduced to fub- jc£iion. The preparations for invading Greece, which had been begun by the former king, were carried on by Xerxes with unremitting affiduity for feveral years ; and, if we may credit the teftimony of the Greek hiftoiians, the multitude which he led with him on this expedition, amounted to no lefs than three millions. At the head of this am.-izing army he marched from S.irdis, the capital of the Perfian dominions in Afia Minor, to the Hellefpont, over which he laid a bridge of boats, that was dcdroyed by a temped. Provoked at this difafter, he is faid to have ordered his foldiers to la(h the waves, and throw chains and fetCers mto the fea, to (hew his dominion over that clemcnr. But wh.;tever credit may be due to this anecdote, he caufed a (Ironger bridge than the former to be built, over which he pafTed his ar iiy. When he viewed his nu- merous forces on this occafion, we are told that he wept, from tlie reflexion that of all the multitude which accompanied him, not one (hould furvivc many years. He had no fooner palTed the Hellefpont, than Thrace fubmitted to a power which feemed to bid defiance to the united oppofition of Europe. The Grecians however determined to die, rather than ac- knowledge the Perfian emperor their fovereign. In this refolutioii Leonidas, one of the kings of Sparta, with four thoufand men, took pofleffion of the ftraic Z ef 90 THE M R N [Ama. bf Thermopyl*, between ThcHuIy and I'hocii, through whi(h (he Peifiani mult pais i ind wai(inj{ (he ap- proach of thii rormidable army, rullainrd fcveral dc< fperate atiacki, in which the enemy loft upwards of twenty ihuufand men. But • native of the country (hewing the Pcrfiani a way up the mountain, which commanded the Arait, thry poni'lled themfelve* of it in the night, and the Oreeki, in confequence, abandoned all hopci of fuccefi from difputing the pall'age any linger. Leonidai therefore gave leave to the iroopt he commanded to retire, while himfelf, with only three hundred men, determined to re- 1 main, and fell their lives ai dear as they could. When they had formed this heroic refolution, he is faid to have invited the three hundred to dine | with him, telling them at the fame time, that they mud expciit to fup with Pluto i on which thry fet up a general fliout. Soon after, an attack was made by the Pcrfians, in which Lcunidas and all the three hundred were killed, except one, who cfraped. This fugitive bringing advice of the a£iion to Sparta, was puniflied fur cowardice, in not throwing away his life with his companions. The fame day on which the action of Thrrmopyle happened, Themiftocles, admiral of the Grecian fleet, defeated that of (he Pcrfians, though the latter confifted of a (houfand fail, and the former of no more than four hundred. Xerxes, however, continuing his march towards Athens, the inhabitants abandoned the city, and went on board their fhips, fending their wives and children to Pcloponnefus. The deferted capital being thus left a prey to the enemy, on their arrival they plundered and burnt it, feixing on the vaft trea- fures that were laid up at Dclphos, which connOed of offerings prcfented to that oracle for many years, by the neighbouring kingdoms and Rates, Whilft the Perfluns were intent on purfuing their conqucft at land, the Grecians obtained a fccond vic- tory over the fleet at Salamis; and a report prevailing, that they were about to demolifh the bridge over the Hellefpont, and thereby preclude the invaders from the poflibility of a retreat, Xerxes direfled his march hither with great precipitation ; where he found the biidge broke down, not by his enemies, but by a ftorm. He paflcd the Hellefpont therefore in a fmall boat, and retired to Sardis, whither, it is prefumed, great part of his army followed him, as he left only three hundred thoufand men to continue the war, under the command of Mardonius, This general was defeated and killed next year at Platxa, in an a£tion with the Athenians and Lacedzmonians, commanded by Ariftidcs and Paufanias. Xerxes is faid to have been fo enraged at thofe repeated difafters, that he caufed all the Grecian temples in Ada to be burnt, except that of Diana at Ephefus. On returning to his capital, he was murdered by Artabanus, captain of th<; guards, and Mithridates, one of the principal eunuchs, and was fucceeded by his third fon Arta- xerxes, the two cldeft having been murdered by the fame confpirators, who were capitally puniOied by the new king on his advancement to the throne. Egypt revolting from the crown of Pctfta about this time, Artaxerxes reduced it to his obedience. It Wita (liii piincc who airidcd (he Jews to rebuild the wills of Jerufjiemi and from the decree in their favour, in the twentieth year of his reign, is dated the commence- ment of the fvveiity weeks of Daniel i at ihe end of which, it was foretold that the MeiEah would appcjr tpon earth. Under this prince, the Grecians retaliated the in- vafions which had been made into their country by the two precrdJn^ I'erfun kin(>s; where meeting wiih great fucccfn, cfpecially thoft; under the commjiid of the celebrated Cymon the Athcni.in, Artaxcrxci thought fit to make peace with tlicm, after the war had cnn> tinued almoft to the end of his reign. At his death, his fons, of whom he left fcveral, contended fomv time for the crown, till Ochus fucceeilid, who alTunicJ the name of Darius. This prince dying without per- forming any memorable atchievenient, his fon Arfaccs mounted the throne, who cnjo)cd all the paternal do- minions, except the province of Afi.i Minor, whicii was given to Cyrus, the younger fon. -The latter imagining th.it he h.id a ri;;ht to the Pcrfuin crown, on account of hi^ being born alter his fatlier had ar- rived at the icgiil dignity, but Arfuccs before that event, exprefliid the higlicd difpicjfurj at this fettle- ment, and attempted to an°;iniiia c hi^i brother in the temple, at the time of the curon.itioii. He retired, however, to his government in Afia Minor, where continuing quiet only till he had cng.igcd a body of Grecian forces in his fervicc, and afTembled a nume- rous army of Perfians, he began his march towarls the capital of the empire, in order to dcpofe his luo- ther. When he cime within feveniy miles of Uabjlon, Arfaces (who on his acceflion to the throne took the name of Artaxerxcs, and was called Miiemon by the Greeks, on account of his great memory) engaged him with an army confiding, as is faid, of a million of Perfians. In this battle Cyrus was killed, and his Peifian troops totally routed; but the thirteen thou- fand Greeks in his fervice, in fpitc of the utmull efforts of the royalifls, made their retreat into Greece, under the command of ' the celebrated Xenophuii, whofc elegant hidory of this extraordinary tranfaclion will tranfinit its fame to the mod didant a^es uf man- kind. Artaxerxes was fucceeded by his fon Ochus, in whofe reign Egypt, which had again revolted, with Phoenicia, was rendered obedient to the Perfun cro'.vn. Befides demolifhing all the fortified places in tlie kingdom, and plundering the temples anJ palaces, a multitude of the inhabitants was carried captive to Babylon; amongd whom w::s U:^oa5, the eunuch, who became a great favourite with the king, and was advanced to the highed pods in the government. An implacable refentment, however, for the opprcflion of his country, and the contempt cxprcd'ed by the Perfian monarch for the gods and religion of Egypt, efface J in the mind of the eunuch every fentiment of gratitude and attachment, and he entered into a confpiracy againft Ochus, whom he removed hy poifon in the twenty- [A»1A. I>> about thii fie. It WM jliJ the W4II1 lir favour, in |c commence. ihe end of vould appear iatcj the in. untrjr by ih* leeiiitjr ^.iii, ommjiid of rxei tlioiigljt ar had cnn» t his death, 'd fomc time [vlio a/TuniiJ without per. foil Arfacei l^ntcrnul do. 'iior, whicli I he laiter ifi.iii crown, tlicr had ar- bcfore tlut t this fettle, 'thcr in the He retired, liuir, wlirro d a body of !^d a nuine. rch tow:irJi loff his hio. of Uab^lon, me took the 'nion by the ■y) engaged if a million sd, and his irtten thou- tlic utmoft nto Greece, Xenophoii, traiifadlion i<-'s of niaii- Ochus, in 'Ited, with un cro'.vn. :e' in ilie palaces, a captive to e eunuch, , and was cnt. An preflion of he Perfian t. cffdcej gratitude ^onfpiracy )n in the twenty- PlRIIA.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 9« twenty, fourth y«ar of hii reign. Hit revenge not being filiated by ihii a£l of Ireichery, he likewife poifuiivd Arfe>, the fon of hiiroy*! patron, and advanced to the throne another Uihui, who had nn ilaim Co the fucccflion, and whom he alfo attempted to dcftroy ) but the dcli^n being difcovercij, he waj himfelf forced to drink the poifon which he had prepared for hii purpofe, I'hii Ochui in'umed the name of Oariui Code • minus, and was the prince in whofe reign the Gre- cians, exafpcraied at the ravages their country had fuiUincd from the Perfun power, determined to feek revenge within the limits of (hat monarchy ) for which purpofe they made choice of Philip, king of Macedon, for their generaliUimo, who being murdered, wai fuc- ceeded in that ftation by his fon Alexander, at the age of about twenty years. This youthful warrior parted the Hellefpont with a body of thirty thoufand foot, •nd five thoufand horfe, and landing in Afia, fought the Perfians on the banks of the river Granicus i where ht gained a complete viiSiory over an army almoft ihiee times fuperior in number. This important battle was foon followed with the furrcnder of Sardis, the capital, and many other cities of the kingdom. The next campaign, Alexander marched and pof. felTcd himfelf of the llraits of Ifius and Cilicia, be- tween the mountains and the Mediterranean Sea, where being attacked by Darius with a numerous army, the Perfian monarch received a total defeat, aggravated by the captivity of his mother, wife, feveral of his children, and three hundred concubines. After this lignal viiSlory, mod of the cities of Paleftine and Phoenicia fubmitted, except Tyre, which having en. durcd a long fiege, was at length taken by dorm. Two thoufand of the inhabitants, who had efcaped the Slaughter which nccompanicd the furious onfet of the Greeks, were referved by Alexander to be crucified \ and, to the eternal difgrace of his humanity, the bar* barous fentence was foon after carried into execution, upon crofliss ereAed along the fea-fliore. So great was the terror univerfaily fpread by this a£l of cruelty, that the towns of Syria and £gypt immediately opened their gates to the conqueror. The rapidity of his progrefs, joined to the conllernation every where ex. cited by his viAories, induced Darius to offer him the , furrrndcr of all the dominions which he pofTtircd wefl of the Euphrates. Alexander not accepting ihofe terms of accommodation, a decifive battle enfucd on the plains of Arbcia, in which the Perfians were the third lima defeated. The conqueror look pofTefTion of the capital cities of Babylon, Sufa, and Perfepolii, the laft of which, at that time the flncft city in the world, he burnt to the ground, at the inftigation of Thais the couriexan. Putfuing Darius to Ecbatana, the capital of Media, whither he had fled, the latter was murdered on the road by BcfTus, one of the gene- rals of his army, whom Alexander, in abhorrencA of his perfidy, afterwards caufed to be put to death. Thus ended the Perfian monarchy, which had continued two hundred and nine years, computing from th« beginning of the reign of Cyrus the Great, At the death of Alexander, which happened a few years after that of Darius, his conquefts were fhared amongfl his generals, under the pretext of governing them no longer than till Arideui, the natural fon of Philip, and Alexander, the fon of the lafl king by Roxana, (hould be capable of the adminiftration. But the two princes being murdered in their minority, the generals afTumcd an independent fovereignty in the refpeAive territories they poirefTcd. Several of them perfifling, however, in the mutual contefls which fuc- ceeded, the number of the competitors was at length reduced to three i among whom, Seleucus and his poflerity enjoyed great part of Afia for feveral hundred years, till the empire was divided into the kingdoms of Perfia Proper, Parthia, Armenia, and Syria. Each of thofe had their refpeAive fovcreigns, and the Romans afterwards pofTelTed Afia Minor- and Syria, with moft of the countries wefl of the Euphrates. The next that occupied the Perfian throne were the Saracens, fuccefTors of Mahomet, who made a conquefl of it about the year 6 jo i from whom it was feized by the Turks about the year of our Lord 1000, Four hundred years later it was conquered by Tamerlane, the great cham of the Tartars; and almofl immediately after, pafTed to the family of the Sophies, or SefTies, who retained it till the ufurpation of Kouli Kan, or Sha Nadir, at whofe death, in 1747, a frclli contefl arofe about the fuccefTion to the crown of this ancient monarchy. ARABIA. .9t THE MODERN [AllA. II B A. CHAP. I. Of tht fituMmn — tiwnt — t'lvirt — meuiiltimi •^ air ami JtuJ'ini. ARABIA i> bouiulcJ on the norMi by Turky ) on the call by the gulph) of Fi'ifi.i or Baflora, and CrmiKi on the fouth by the Indian Ocean t and on the weft by the Red Scj, and the Iflhmut uf Sues, which divide it from Africa, It ii fituiiie between 35 and 60 degreci of call longitude.-, and between 14 and 30 di'j;rcri of nortli latitude ) extending 13CO miles in length, and laoo in bieadih. In this account, Ch.''dca or Kyraca Arabick is not included, which will be mciitiuned in the dcfciiptlon of Turky, Arabia is ufually diliiiipuilhed into three ^Tcat divi- fion;, nnincly, Arabia IVtrxa, Aiabia Dcicila, and Arabia Felix, Arabia Pctrva is fituatc at the north- weft part of the country, between Kgypt and Palcftinc, towards the ifthmus that fcparates the MiJitcrr-inean or Levant from the lU-d Sea, and which ii about a hundred miles ill extent, the mod mount.tlnous and rocky of thofc territories. The chief towns arc, Suez, lying at the bottom of the Arabian gulph or Red Sea, bting the port .lere the Turkifli gallies ufually lie; and Tor, another port-town fouth-ead of the former. The fccond divifion of Arabia is that of Arabia Dcfcrtn, lying between Turkey and' Arabia Felix j but neither the fouthcrn or northern limits of this province can be exaflly afccrtained, being bordered by vaft dcfarts. In this quaiter are very few towns, the people fur the moft part living in tents, and divided into a multitude of tribes, which arc perpetu- ally moving from one part of the country to another, to find water and pafture for their cattle. The chief towns here are, Medina, Mecca, Siden, Dhafar, and Elcatiff. Medina is fituatJ in 40 degrees 35 minutes eaft lon- gitude, and 24 degrees 30 minutes north latitude, about two hundred miles north-weft of Mecca, It is called Medina Talmahi, or the city of the prophet. Here Mahomet was firft proclaimed kinj, and his tomb is alio .it this plarcj but the cofHn is nuc fuf- pended by a load-ftone in the cieling, aircording to the vulgar tradition. The town is adorned with a great number of fine mofqucs, but that culled Mofa Kibu, or the Moft Holy, exceeds the reft in magnifi- cence. It Hands in the middle of the city, fupported by four hundred columns, and illuminated by as many lamps. Mahomet's tomb is in a tower or chapel of this mo.'^uc. It is covered with a dome, and fur- rounded with a filver rail, adorned with precious ftoncs, the gift of zealous Mahometan princes. The Hegira, or Mahometan epoch, commences from the flight of Mahomet to this city, when he was driven 7 from Mccci 1 nimrly, from the i6ih of July, A. D. Oil. Mecca, which it 'ht ripital of all the Arabiai, it fituate iin ai degrees ao iiiinutei of north latitude, and in 43 degreci jo minutes of calk longitude) Hand- ing in a plain furroundcd by mountains, nboul thirty milei caft of the Red Sea, It confilli ol about two thoufand boufis handfomcly buiU of brick, and moll of them with flat routs itnd batilsmtntN In the middle of the city ftandt the kaaba, or houfe of God, an octagonal building, not more than twenty yards in circumference. It ii aRcndid by fix Ai-ps, and the entranre it by folding doors of U'ulid filvcr. I'he walls are hung with red and white filk, in Ctvaial parts of which arc interwoven the fullowin<; words : La itlii ill Alia, Miihimed Rf/jnl iI'Mt 1 GW // a grt»l Gtil, and Attihtm.t hii prcplxl. This temple is fur- rounded by a Itrg* piazza, fupported by three rowi of pillars, where the pilgrims perform their devotion^, very few of them having admittance into the kaaba. The grand feignior prifcnts annually a new fet of hangings to this temple, when thofe of the preceding year arc tikcn down, and cut into fmall pieces, which are fold to I'uch of the pilgrim* at arc difpofcd to pur- chafe them. Siden or Judda is the port-town to Mecra, and fituate about thirty miles weftward of it. Hither the Tuikifti g.illics bring every year vaft quantities of rice and other provifions, when the pilgrims are expeifled to arrive, who, without thofe imports, would flarve for want of fubfiftcnce in the dcfarts of Arabia, Dhafar and ElcatifF arc likewife pott-towns, the former fituate max the Red Sea, in ^.\ degrees of call longitude, and 18 degrees of north latitude, a hundred and twenty miles fouth of Mecca, The latter ftandf on the gulph of fiafi'ora, in 49 degrees of call longitude, and in 25 degrees 50 minutes north l.ititudc. It ia capital of the province nf Dahnra, in the dominions of Perfia, and has in its neighbourhood a fine peail fifhery. Arabii Felix is bounded on the ncrth by Arabia Dcfcrtai on the eaft, by the gulph of Ormusj on the fouth, by the Indian Ocean i and on the weft, by the Red Sea. The chief towns arc, Sibit, Mocho, Aden, Hadramut, Cad'ecn, Sc;^ar, MulV:nt, and Janunin, the capitals of fo many provinces, or fubJivifions of this part of the Arabian territories. Sibit is fituatc near the caflern fliore cf the Red Sea, in 45 degrees of caft longitude, and 15 i-'egrces of north latitude. It is the greateft mart in .Afia for myirh, frankincrnfe, and other odoriferous gums and drugs ; but there are no fpices either here, or in any other part of Arabia, though the Imlian fpices have been frequently denominated from this country, on account of their being firft brought to it by the caravans, in their paflage to Egypt and the phccs bordering on the Levant. Moco, Arabia.] OENfiRAL TRAVELLER. 93 Moco, or Mocho, U fiiuiiton the «jft ftiore of the Kcil itt, within the ftraiti uf Uuhtl Mindcl, about a huiidreii milci fuuth o( Sibit, in 45 ilrgrcri of ctO luiigiiudc, «nd 13 degreei of iiuith latitude. It flindi in I barren fandy pl.iin, fulrounded however by the greatcll planlaiioni of coflfce in the world, whence ihii commodity wai firft brought to Kurope by the Turki. The town it large and populoui, the houfci well built with brick and flunr, the rooia dtf and ter- laircd, and the fliopi rnrni(hed.wiih all kinds of ealtern merchandize. Aden it likewifo filuated within the ftratjs of Babel Mandcl, about • hundred and twenty milei call of Moco, being • port-town on the Indian or Arabian ocean, in 46 degrcei of call longitude, and la degrees of nort*i 'atitudc. Mufcit, another port town, ii fitutte on the wellern Ihotc of the gulph of Ormui, in 58 drgtecs of eaft longitude, and 23 drgreei of north latitude. It liei in a bottom, furroundid by three rocki, which fecure the harbour, and render it of di/RcuU accefi to ftrangeri. Thii place waa once pofTefled by the Por- tuguefe, but ia now the capital nf a large territory fubjefl to an Arabian prince, called the king of Mufcat, or Oman, :he only naval power on the coaft of Arabia, except the Turke, who command the navi- gation of the Red Sea. Hardly any country it mora dellitute of riven than Arabia. The chief of thofe are. Chat, Pran, and Nagiran, but none of them navigable. The moun- tains are, Gcbel, and Ared, or the great mountains in the middle of the country, with thofe of Sinai and Iloreb in Arabia Petrxa. Thofe parta of Arabia, which lie within or near the tropic of Cancer, are e>.ceirive hot, but have their mnnfoons and fea breezes regularly, as in other coun- tries under the fame parallels. The vernal monfoon, on the fouthern coafl of Arabia, blows from the foutb" weft from April to September, when it fhifis, and blows from the oppofite direfiion during the other fix months. In April and May the hot winds are intolerable. The weather is almod perpetually clear and ferenc, and the country feldom either fcreened from the fun by clouds, or refredied with (howers. CHAP. II. 0/ lb* fsil'^prcduci K—traffc—govtrnment — perfim—^ habtti'-'diit—divirjitns^milhid of travelling. TH E three feveral divifions of Arabia are in general barren, though the fouthern province, on account of its comparative fertility in fome places, has received the name of Felix, or Happy. But even- here hardly any thing will arrive at perfeAion, without turning the water into the fields and gardens. The country yields very little paftufe, and the grain chiefly cultivated is either rice or barley; to promote the growth of which, the inhabitants draw water out of their wells and refervoirs with oxen, and convey it by fmall rills into their arable lands, as in Perfia. No country produces fuch plenty of odoriferous gums J but they have hardly any timber of foreft trees. No. 8. Their oranjes, lemoni, grapes, «nJ peaches, eome to perfeAion, as is ulually the cafe in hot coun- tries 1 but the fruits which yield them mod profit, and are chiefly exported, are dates and cotlVe. The former, which candy and prefcrve ihcntfcUcs when laid in heaps, grow in ainioft every part of the country 1 but the coA'ce chiefly about Muco, This berry grow* upon a (hrub eight or ten fnot high, in the richell grounds, and is watered like the re(k of their plants. The natives have drank theliquo.-- made of it between two and three hundred ysani and thii commodity has • been imported into Britain fince the year 1652. Mi. Edwards, a Turkey merchant, then brought over with him a Greek, named Pafqua, and fct bim up in a coffee- houfe in London, which was the ftrft uf the kind in England. Arabia was once famous for gold and precious ftones, . efpecially on the borders of Chaltlea, which is fuppofvU to be the land of Havilah, mentioned by Mufes. The pearl-fifhery, on the gulph of I'erfi.i or liaflura, was . lately cfleemed the richell in Afia, and belonged for- merly to Perfia I but fince that countiy has been di(lra£led with civil wars, this branch uf trade haa been much negleded, and feems at prefent to be in . the poireflion of the Arabs. 1 Arabia is hardly diflinguifhed for any confiderable manufacture, but the inhabitants carry on a trade with all Mahometan countries. Situate between Perfia and India on the eafl, .;nd Europe and Africa on the weft, caravans of merchants, either natives or ftrangers, aro ; perpetually travelling through the country) the profit of the provifions fold to which, with the toll exa^cd from ftrangers, annually amounts to a large fum. The advantage derived from the pilgrims alone, who come hither from all the Mahometan countries, : from motives of intereft aa well as of devotion, ia extremely great. Moco is the principal port ufed to by the Turkifli gallics, which bring the cofliec and other produce of Arabia to Suez, at the bottom of th« Red Sea ; whence it is carried to Egypt, and the porta ■ of the Levant, where the Englifli and other Europcana are fupplicd with it. TheEnglilh, Dutch, and other Kaft-India (hips alfo refort to Moco, direi^ly, for coffee and other goods, which they bring to Europe - round the Cape of Good Hope. , The different provinces of Arabia are divided into ■ feveral governments. Moco, Aden, Mufcat, and , other port-towns already mentioned, have large terri- tories, the fovereign* of which are ftyled xeriiFs, and fometimes imans ; each including the office not only of king, but high-prieft, which Mahomet and his fuc- - ceflbrs the califFs, afTumed for fome hundreds of years, though they are now diftinA both in Perfia and Turkey. Thofe petty fovereigns in Arabia feem to be abfolute, and their thrones hereditary. It does not appear that they h?ve any ftanding forces; but the fovereign is mafter both of the purfes and perfons. of his fubjeds. The king of Oman or Mufcat, as haa been faid, is , the only naval power in the country. This prince has thirty (hips of war, with which, like the Alge* rines, he makes captures of the veffels of every nation , that are not too great for his force. Some of his fliipa _ A a ait 94 THE MODERN [Am A. ire of fixty or feventy gnns, but the largeft* of them nnt bigger than a fourth rate man of war, and none of them choofe to engage an £uropc(n veflcl of any force. On this nccount, the Banians of India, who trade to Perfia, generally load their good« on board feme Engliflt or Dutch fbip, when they fail from Combron to Snrat. i nough this prince, and others «f the country, have great guns, they do not know how to manage them, either on board or on fliorc; neither will their commanders ever venture to fca but in the fair feafon. The Turks, who are malers of the navigation of the Red Sea, keep the adjacent port- towns in great fub- jcAion. There even are inftances of the I'uiki/S ridmirala hanging fome of the princes on this coaA^ for refufing to obey their commands. The forereigns of ih«' inland country, however, acknowledge no de- netidenct on the Ottoman power, unlefs Arabia Tetrxa, which is in reality a part of the Turkifli< dominions. The reft of the Arabians are divided into tribes and families, confiding of a thoufand or fifteen hundred perfons. Thf^ head of each tribe is a monarch, called thtt flteikel kebir, fometimes emir; and the chief of each family is ftyled fheik, who has very great power. Atnong thofe the government i:i heredit&ry, though they have no certain territories, but ramble perpetually from one part of the country to th'.- oiher, in the manner of the hords of Tartary. Notwithftanding thii ambulatory life, they demand a duty of all mer- chants palCng through the country, which is confidered by the vagrant tribes as a large undivided common. Thofe that li: next Turicey are fometimes looked upon as fubje£ts of the grand fcignior; but they are fuch th?t he often finds himfelf under the neceflity of grant> ing fubfidies to their chiefs, to prevent them from making iiicurfions into thofe parts of his dominions which are more immediately under his controul. By the adventurers in the Crufades, the Arabs have been rrprefented as men of a g>gantic ftature, and terrible afpeft, probably with the view of extenuating the defeats received from them. They arc however rilther low than tall, with flender bodies and fwarthy complexions. Their eyes snd hair are black, as in moil hot countries, and their voices fliritl, but rather cfFeminate than ftrong. Among* thofe who live in the defarts," many of the men go almoft naked j buc they who ufe any habit wear blue frocks, tied with a fafh, a mantle made of the flcins of beads, with turbans, drawersj and fometimes flippers, bui; t'o (lockings. The women are fo wrapped up from head to foot, that no part of them can be den. Like other Mahometans, the Arabs eat all forts of flefl], -but that of hogs; taking care however to have the blood entirely drained from i* The meat they efteejnmoft is camelVflefli, which they feldom fail to have at all entertainments; nor do the}' refufe any kinds of fiib, but thofe without {bale<>i Infteftd' of bread, they ufe thin cakes made of flour, and baked upon thfe hearth immediately when they have occafion for them. But rice is ufed in many parts of the country, as a fuccedancum to bread; and dried dates are efteemed delicious food. Their common drink is water and flierbet made of oranges. The people io the neighbourhood of Mufcat are faid to abdain not only from wine, but from coiTvc and tea; and tobacco feems to be little ufed in any part of the country. The principal diverfion of the Arabs is horfcmnn- Ihip, in which ih;y take great delight, and their breed of horlcs is excellent. In martiul excrcifes they arc likcwife very expert, being at prefent as dexterous in the ufe of fire-arms, as they formerly were in that of the bow and lance. The yrcMtcr part of the country being dofarts, there is hardly to be found in it airy fuch thing as a road, and confLUUcntly there arc no caravanfcras, or houf.'S' of entertainment for travellers. The caravans travtl over vaU plains of fanJ, fo extenfive that they deer by a compafs, as at fca; continuing their journey fre- quently by the light of the ftirs, but feldom in the hotter part of the day. Both merchant] and pilgrims, for fecurity, generally travel in large bodies; their caravans of'en confiding of three or four hundred mAi, and eight hundred or a thoufand beads of burden, camels, afles, and oxen, loaded with merch:indize and provifions, with feme faddle-hprfcs and afles for the accommodation of travellers. A large camel will carry eight hundred or a thoufand weight; and the dromedaries, which are a fmaller fpccies, about five hundred weight. Both lie down to take up their burdens, and will travel through this parch«tl country eight or nine days.-vithout water. Indead of caravanfcras, travellers provide ihemfelves with tents, which they pitch occafionally when the weather happens to he bad ; but when the feafon is fine, as it common)/ J determine all difpulcs which may happen on the road, and to compound for the feveral duties demanded of the caravan, by the governors of the countries through which they pafs. The merchants who travel with the caravan, ride upon horfcs or mules, and fometimes upon aiTes, which travel fad enough for ihs loaded camels, who feldon) go above a foot-pace. The Chridians, or Franks, as they are called, are obliged to provide themfelves with mules or packhorfts, to carry their wine ; for the camel drivers being difciple« of Mahomet, will not fufl^er that animal to be loaded with any dron| liquor, the camel being confecrated to their prophet, who dri&ly prohibited the ufe of every intoxicating bever- age.- The wine, as wel! as water, is put into goat- ikini e GENERAL T R A V E L L E R. for .hey foon frove e Arabia.] fWns with the hiir inwirdsj leaky if the hair is ofF. Every merchant and his fervants ride near the camels which carry their goods, to preferve them from thieves. Tor ai tliey frequently travel early in the morning, and late in the evening, thofe pilferers fometimes cut the fttings by which the camels are tied together, and lead off fome of them without being perceived. To prevent the depredations of the ban- ditti in tne night, every caravan is accomp;ini«d by fome poor people, who ferve as watchmen when :hey are cncamj^ed. It is prudent for travell-r' in '.his country to drefs themfclvcs in an Arabian veil and cap, without which precaution they may be expofed to infults from the natives, and perhaps ftopped at fome of the towns on their way. Their boots are made of a kind of glove- leather, and they never wear fpursi the ftlrrup being furniflied with a lUarp fpike, whith fcrves to prick the horfes. CHAP. III. Of tit languagt—ltaj-nins — hi/lory. Til E language fpoken by ths natives of this country, or, as they are called, the Saracens, is the Arabic j but at prefent it it greatly degenerated from its ancient purity, the Alcoran being hardly in- telligible to thofe who know only the common tpngut. It is agreed on all hands, that in the north*eaft part of Arabia, and the neighbouring ftates of Chaldea and Babylonia, learning flourilhed at an early period. To the ingenuity of the ancient Arabians the world is in- debted for the valuable fcience of algebra; and from a period fo remote as aimoft a thoufand y^eacs ago, the phyficians of this country have tranfmitted fuch docu- ments of their medical Hcill and obfervation, particularly ia the faiall-pox, as will perpetuate the remembrance Qf the'r indudry through the lateft annals of phyfic. liefidcs thofe fciences in particular, the Arabians were likewife diftinguifhed f': their love of general learning, and were the firft that imported into Europe the literary treafures of the Greeks. But whatever acquifitions they made in former times, the cultivation of letters has totally ceafed amongfl them, and they are now funk in the ignorance of every intel- lectual accomplifhment. The mofl memorable fubjeiSt relative to tiie tr^uf- a£lions of this country, is the hiftory of Mahomet, ...e founder of the Saracen empire, as well as of the extraordinary fuperfiitioh to which he has given name. This celebrated impollor was born at Mecca, A. D. 571, in the reign of Juftinian II. emperor of Conilantinople. He was defcended of the tribe of Korcis, one of the moft honourable in Arabia; but at the time of his birth, the circumllances of his family were exceeding mean. His father dying in two years after, he was taken into the houfe of AbdoU Mctallah, his grandfather, who not furviving above a twelvemonth, recommended him to the care of his uncle Abutaleb, ^. ^itut merchant, by whom be was 9 J ''nitrudled in the buflrefs, and afterwards fent ti Wm fa^or with the caravans into Syria and Palefline, where |ie became acquaint<>d both with Chriftians and Jews. He continued in his uncle's fcrvice till the age of ^wenty-iive, wh'^n he became faiElor to a rich widow, . named Cadlgha, whom in three years after he married. The fortune he acquired by this match, rendered him one cf the moil opulent men in Mecca, and it is faid that he now laid the plan of obtaining fovereign power, to wliich he feemed to have a claim, from the cudom of the Arabs, his ancellors having been chiefs of their- tribe for feveral generations. To recover the former- rank of his family, he imar^ined that the rc-Hicd way was to turn reformer, and become the head of a new religion, a pto]e£t which appeared the more likely to lucceei, on account of the animofitics prevalent at * that time amongft the Chriftians of the Eaft, Se'.tin^ out therefore on his political carreer, be af* fe£led to revive the primitive worihip and purity of the ancient patriarchs; and that he might more eafily avoid' the oppofition of every fe£l, he propofed to unite Chriftians, Jews, and Pagans in one general religion. It feemed how;ver indifpenfably neceflary, as be had- hitherto been a Pagan, and was rematk.ibly profligate, that helhould firft reform himfelf, or at leaft aflume tht appearance of extraordinary fandity in his own perfon. For this purpoi'i: h<: went every morning to the cave of :iira, near Mecca, where he pretended he fpent hit time in prayer, fafting, and divine meditation ; and it it imagined, that at thofe times he was employed in com- pofing the Alcoran, in which he vv.-is affifted by fome Jews and Chriftians, particularly a monk who con- ftantly refilled in his houfe. On his return to Mecca in the evenings, he ufed co entertain his family witha relation of the vifiont he had feen in the courfe of the day, and of his intimate converfation with the angel Gabriel ; whilft the inonk corroborated the truth of the detail by a folemn affirmation, wherever any of the audience appeared in the leaft degree incredulous ; in Qonfequcnce of which, hit wife and a few others be*. came converts to his perfuafion. Having a£)ed the hermit foi fome years, about the age of forty he declared himfelf a prophet fent from I Go.^, to reclaim the Arabian* from their idolatry. He taui,ht them that there wa'i but one God, and that thof<- whci <>fiirm that God has any fbn, daughter, or rooipanion, thv. pelled him to take refuge under the walls of Mecca. Soon afterwards, however, trying his fortune in an- other engagement, he obtained a complete viAory, compelling the vanquiflied inhabitants to acknowledge him as fovcreign, and recognize all the doArinea which he had delivered as a revelation from heavenj But he enjoyed not long the tranquillity which fortune had thrown into his hands,' A decline of health, oc- cafioned by poifon whiAi 'had been given him fome time before by a Jewefs, in a (hdulder of mutton, now made rapid f>rogrefsi he became deliridus, and expired in great agony on the day, as is faid, wheil he completed the fixty-third year of his age. All univerfal confternation feized his difciples at thit event, many of them entertaining an Opinion that M was not fubje£l to death. Omar, one of his generals, drawing Persia.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. ^7 drawing his fworJ, fvvorc he would cut any man to pieces who fliouM f.iy th it he was dead. Aliubeltcr demanded in reply, if they worfliiped Mjh.mut, or the God of Mahomet. " If fays he, you worfliip the God of Mahomet, he is immortal, but as to Mahomet he is certainly dead ;" cojifirming his opinion of their prophet's mortality by fcveral pafTages from the Alcoran, with which Omar and his party were fatif- Aed. Another difpute arofe about the place of his burial: fome propofed that he fliould be buried at Medina; others confidered Mecca as more eligible; whilft a third party Infifted that he thould be laid among the prophets at JiTufalem. This controvcrfy was decided likewife by Abubekcr, who declared he had heard Mahomet fay, that a prophet fliould be buried in the place where he died. A grave was therefore made under the bed where the body lay, in which it was interred. Over the fpot a chapel was afterwards built, which (lands at one of the corners of the great mofque •at Medina, founded by Mahomet himfelf. Mahomet tooic no other wife as long as Cadigha lived; but afterwards he had fifteen, fome fay twenty, moft of them cohabiting with him at the fame time. Of this number, five died before him, and he divorced ^, fix. His greateft favourite was AyeOia, the daughter '^ of Abubeker, though fhe was accufed of being falfe to his bed ; but he pretended not to credit the report of her infidelity, and even added a chapter to the Alcoran, in fupport of her innocence. His wife Haphfa, the daughter of Omar, was the next in his good graces, and with her he trufted the cheft of his ' ttpofllefliip, already mentioned, in which were depofited the original writings relating to his pretended revela- tions. He took to his bed Zaidah, the wife of one of his enfranchifed flaves, at which his difciples were offended ; but he compofed another chapter of the Alcoran, where he introduced God approving the match. Befides his wives, he had feveral concubines, parti- cularly an Egyptian, in his old age; on which being upbraided by his wives Haphfa and Ayeftia, he again had recourfe to a revelation in defence of his condufl. Such were the tranfa£iions, both public and private, of thii extraordinary perfonagej a man in whofe cha- raiSler an audere hypocrify was joined to a licentious indulgence in plcafurc; who appears to have obtained credit from the multitude, even by the extravagance of his hclions; who artfully accommodated his dif- corJant fyftem of religion to the intercds and padions of thofe whom he intended to delude; and who efta- bliflied a veneration for his name, the moft extenfive, moft enthufiaftic, and permanent, that ever was known amongft mankind. Mahomet by his will had appointed Hali, the huf- band of his eldeft daughter Fatima, to be his fuccefTor; but notwithftanding this fettlement, Abubekcr, his father-in-law, and one of his greateft captains, aflumed the title of caliph, or foverelgn of the Saracens, both in fpirituals and temporals. He enjoyed this rank ten years, and was fucceeded by Omar, another com- mander of the Saracen army, who added Perfia, Syria, Palcftinc, Mefopotamia, and Egypt, to his dominions. To him fucceeded Ofman, a third of Mahomet's military officers, who extended the Saracen empire over all the northern parts of Africa. But the faflion of Hali prevailing againft him, and being bedeged in his own houfe, he threw himfelf upon his fword, and died in the eighiy-feventh year of his age, and the tenth of his reign. The conqueror af '.< d the throne, but in lefs than three years was af.....nated by Mahuvias, with eleven of his fons. The twelfth efcaping, his pofterity afterwards fucceeded to the throne of Perfla. The caliphs removed the feat of their empire from Mecca to Bagdat, about the year 756, where they reigned fole fovereigns of the Saracens till the year 863, when the fultans of Egypt, Perfia, &c. who were before viceroys of the caliphs of Babylon, aflumed each an independent power. From this period, how- ever, the Babylonian caliphs fubfifted till the year 1255, when Muftatzem, who then held the royal and pontifical dignity at Bagdat, was ftarved in his caftle, and bis whole pofterity deftroyed by Allan, or Hallon the Tartar. The Saracen fultans were perpetually engaged in wars with each other, or with the Grecian emperors, until they were fubdued by the Turks. Their expeditions into the fouthern parts of Europe will be treated of in the hlftories of the refpeftive countries. ^'%. No. 9. B b ASIATIC THE M R N [AriA. ASIATIC TURKY. CHAP. I. Of the provinces of Eyraca jirobici — Diarbeck ^ Curdijlan — Turamania^Gtorgia, <•■•:; 1 ASIATIC Turky is fituate between 27 and efi iltgrces of north latitude. It is bounded on the north by Circairia, and the Black Sea ; on the eaft '7 Perfiai on the fouth by Arabia and the Levant; and on tlic weft by the Hcllefpont, and the iEgean Se.i or Archipelago, which fcparate it from Europe. This iiimicnfi; territory may be divided into three great Jivifions, namely, the eaftern, the wcftern, and the foutliern } which, for the fake of perfpicuity, may be lubdivided into their refpeftive provinces. The eallern divifion contains the provinces of Eyraca Arabick, Diarbeck, Curdeftan, Turcomania, and Georgia ; the latter comprehending Mcngrelia, Iir.uretia, and pirt of CircalTia. The weftern divifion contains Natolia, or Afia Minor, divided into Natolia Proper, Afia, Aladulia, and Caramania. The fouthern divifion contains Syria, and Palcfline, or the Holy Land. Eyraca Arabick is the ancient Chaldea, fometimes reckoned a part of Babylonia, and fometimes a pro- vince of Arabia. It lies on both fides the Euphrates and Tigris, having Perfia on the eaft, and Arabia Defcrta on the weft. The chief towns arc, Bagdat, and BafTorn. Bagdat, the capital, is fituate in 44 degrees ai niinutss of eaft longitude, and in 33 degrees 10 minutes of north latitude, upon the Tigris. It was built by Mahomet II. caliph c/ the Saracens, on the weft fide of the river ; and about the year i lOO, another town was built on the eaft fide of the river, and both united by a bridge. It continued the capital of the Saracen empire, till it was taken by the Tartars about the middle of the thirteenth century, when a period was put to that dominion. This city lying upon the borders of Turkey and Perfia, has been an objedl of great conteft between thofe powers, and taken and re- taken feveral times. The Turks, however, have been in poficffion of it fince the year 1689; and here the begleibeg, or viceroy of the province, conftantly refides. The town is near two miles long and one broad, defended by a wall and towers, almoft of the form of baftions, with a large moat, and a ftrong caftle upon the river. The principal buildings are, the palace of the beglerbeg ; the mofques, of which there are five; the cloyfters furrounding the bazars or market "places; and the bagnios; all which were built by the Pei fians, when they were in poflcflrion of the place. Befides the viceroy, three other great officers are conftantly ftationcd here, over whom the former has no authority; they being rather checks to his ad- miniftration, and accountable only to the divan at Conflantinople. Thofe are, the cadi, who is the principal ecclcfiaftic, and confequently the chief judge; the tefterdar or treafurer, and the reis elFendi or fecre- tary. The garrifon ufually confifts of fi'ur or five thoufand men, horfe and foot. BafTora, or Balfarra, is fituate in 47 degrees of eaft longitude, and 30 of north latitude, three miles from the weftern ftiore of Chital-Arab, or the united ftream of the Euphrates and Tigris; with which it has a communication by a dc-cp canal, the tide flowing up between foity and fifty miles higher than the town. The walls are twelve miles in circumference, within which are many void fpaccs, fields, and gardens. It is fuppofed to be the beft fituated for trade of any town in the world, and was the moft ancient port- town that hiftory takes notice of in the Eaft. Four months in the year, tho merchants from all quarters refort hither, viz. between the firft of July and the end of OiSlober, when the monfoon fits fair to bring- them up the gulph. The greatcft difadvantage to Bafifora, is the famiel or hot wind, which blows annually over the country about Midfummcr, and is extremely peftilential. At the fame feafun, another diftcmper is likewife epidemic, which occafions fwellings in the groin, r.cck, and different parts of the body. It is however not To dangerous as the former. The cuftoms at Baflbra, arifing from the merchant dize, are the property of the grand feignior; but the prince who is governor of the town, and muft always be an Arabian by birth, has a confiderable revenue from other articles. The country between Bagdat and BaiTora, which was part of the ancient Babylonia, is one of the richeft in Afiatic Turkey; abounding with the fineft meadow and pafture grounds, covered with flocks and herds of cattle. But being under the dominion of the indolent Turks, it is not now fo well cultivated as formerly. Some travellers pretend to have difcovered the ruins of Babylon, but they appear to have mlftaken them for thofe of Seleucia, which was for fome time called New Babylon, and peopled from the old. All that we know of certainty is, that the latter was fituated upon the river Euphrates, confiderably higher than the place of its jun£lion with the Tigris, Of Seleucia nothing remains but a part of its ruins, Bagdat having been built out of the materials of the ancient city. The province of Diarbeck, the ancient iVfcfopotamia, is fituate north of Eyraca Arabick or Chaldea, fur- rounded by ths rivers Euphrates and Tigris. The chief D.ARBECK, &c] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 99 chief town is Diarbcct, or Caremit, fituatt in 42 dorrc of caft loDgitudc, and 37 degrees 30 minutes 01 north lat'tudf, on the river Tigri5, int far fr(im ill) luurcc. It ftands on an eminence, the dcftriit from which to the river is very Weep; and is furtouiidcd by a double \vall, the mod outward being defended by fi.xty antique towers. In this city is a magnificent n.o'"c|iK-, formerly a Chriflian church ; and fcvcral hand- for.H- piazzas. Uefides a great number of Mahometans, it is I'ljppofi-'d to contain twenty tht ufand Chriftian inhabi-.aii'.s, of which two thirds arc /Armenians. It is the feat of the beglerheg or viceroy, who has feveral fan!;iac(hips, or governments fubjeft to him. The country in the neighbourhood is very fertile, abound- ing in corn, wine, cattle, wild fowl, and all forts of provifiotiS. The principal manufadlure is that of Turkey leather, or rnaroquins, which employs a fourth part of the nrlives. The proviiice likewifc produces galls and tobaci.o, of which great quantities are exported. Another confidcrable town in this province is Bir, a great thoroughfare to Perfia, and fituatc on the Euphrates. It has a wall and callle for its defence, and two fmall rivulets run through the town. The Euphrates would be navigable fo high as this city, were it not for fome catarafls and rocks. Northward of Bir ftands Orfa, likewife on the Euphrates, Here the caravans, travelling from Turky ts Pcrfia, ufually reft eight or ten days. This town is furrounded by a ftrong wall, has a caftle for its defence, and is governed by a bafhaw, the garrifon confifting of about a thoufand janiflaries and fpahit. Great part of the inhabit.-ints are Armenian Chriftians, who have a conflderable manufa£iure of yellow maro- quin or Turky leather; as Diarbecic has of red, and Tocat of blue. It is fuppofed that Orfa is the ancient Edefla i and likowife that iii or near this place, Abra- ham dwelt when he removed from Ur of the ChaU decs. Mciiful, or Mouful, is fltuate on the weft bank of the Tigris, oppofitc to the ruins of Nineveh. It is about three miles in circumference, furrounded by a ftcnc Wail, and has for its defence a caftle, in which the bafliaw refidcs. The caravans from Aleppo to Perfia pafllng through it, and the river being navigable to Bi'gdar, Bitflbra, and the gulph of Perfia, the town has a brifk trade. I'he inhabitants are chiefly Arme- nians and Chriftians of the Greek communion ; but the Mahometan is the eftablifhed religion; and the garrifon confifts of four thoufand Turks, horfe and foot. The chief produce of the adjacent country is galls. The province of Curdiftan, or Aflyria Proper, is divided between the Pcrfians and Turks. The weftern part, which belongs to Turky, is the leaft, lying between Perfia on the eaft, and Diarbeck on the weft. The chief town is Sherafoul, or Cherazur, the houfes of which are hewn out of a rock, on the fide of a hill, and afcended by fifteen or twenty fteps. At this place the beglerbeg or viceroy of the province refides, and has command of feveral fangii>ckfliip8, which have bafhawj for their governors. Arbcia lies on the frontiers of Perfia, on the river Lycus, which runs through a fine plain, thirty or forty miles in extent. In the middle of this fpacious tcrii- tory is a little hill, and the ruins of a i-aftic, where it is conjcdiiured Darius ftood to view the lull fatal adion between his troops and the Grecians, which terminated the Perfian empire. Betlis is ftuate near the fouth fhote of the lake of Van, in 43 degrees of eaft longitude, and 37 degrees 30 minutes of north latitude. This town lying on the confines of the Turkifh and Perfian dominions, it is faid that tne bey or fovereign acknowledges fub- je£)ion to neither power. The adjacent country is mountainous, and almoft inacceflible ; fo that the bey, by fecuring the pafTes, could at pleafure cut ofF the communication between the neighbouring kingdoms. On which account, neither the Turks nor Pcrfians think it their intereft to provoke him One whole day's march before caravans arrive at Betlis, they travel through very ftcep mountains. The way up to the town is cut through a rock, fo narrow, that only one camel can pafs at a time. It is built round a hill in the form of a fugar-loaf, that can only be af- cended by a ferpentine path ; and in a caftle, on the fummit of this mountain, is the refidcnce of the bey. The province of Curdiftan is a very mountainous country, but the hills are covered with good timber and herbage to the top. In, the valleys the foil is well watered and rich ; but being a frontier province, is not fo well cultivated as it might be, The inha>. bitants chiefly lead a psftoral life, their numerous flocks and herds almoft covering the face of the country. North of Diarbeck and Curdiftan, is fituate the province of Turcomania, having Media or Adirbitzan on the eaft, and Natolia on the weft. This is the ancient Armenia, and its chief towns are Erzerom and Kars. The city of Erzerom, the capital, ftands at the foot of a mountain, in 41 degrees of eaft longitude, and 40 degrees of north latitude. It is about two miles in circumference, furrounued by a double wall. The inhabitants confift of near twenty thoufand Turks, and fix thoufand Armenian Chriftians. Moft of the Turks, though only tradefmen, have the title of janiflaries, which they purch.-.fe of the aga, for the fake of the privileges it confers. A janiflary may in- fult his fellow-fubje£ls with impunity ; and for any mifdemeanour, is only anfwerable to the aga, with whom it is aU.ays his ftudy to keep upon good terms. Even people of figure frequently enroll themfelves in this body, to prevent their being expofcd to its violences. But though the jan!fl*aries are fa valiant at home, they never concern themfelves in any war in which the country may be engaged; neither do they receive any pay. The Armenians and Greek Chriftians have here each their biftiop. Thofe people are moft of them artificers, employed in the leather and copper manufaiSlure; the neighbouring mountains being rich in copper-ore, and fome filver. Their chief commodity is furs ; but they have a brifk foreign trade with the caravans which pafs 100 THE MODERN [Asia. pafs through the city in their w.iy to TrapefonJ, on the Black t'ca. At Eiztrom, the cuftom-houlc ofliccrs coIIclI the giand fignior's duties on »U mer- chandize that paflcs through the country. I'hc mountains u( this province arc ufually covered with fnow till Midfummcr, The air is cxcce.ling cold in wintcTj and in fummcr in the valley ia as jiitcinpciatcly hot. 'i'he vicilCtudcs of heat and cold, however, are not always (o regular; for the weather (rcqucnily changes on a fudden, from fcorch- ing heat to the oppofitc extreme, which is the mure inCupportable as they have hardly any fuel in the country. There is neither tree noi bufh to be fccn for many miles. Their firing is cow-dung, and other fliiiklng materials, which is faid to taint the air, and fpoil the food they drefs with it, Kars, or Cars, is fituate on a river of the fame name, about a hundred miles fouth of Trapefund. It is two miles in circumference, meanly built, and but thinly inhahited. It is however defended by n double wall, and a caftle ereflcd on an innccefiible rock; in which is a numerous garrifon, commanded by a baftiaw. The Franks, or Chnftinn merchants, com- plain much of the extortion of the Turks, as they pafs through this city. The town of Van ftands in 44 degrees 30 minutes of eall longitude, and 38 degrees 30 minutes of north latitude; at the north end of a lake of the fame name, which abounds in fifh, and is about fifty miles in cir- cumference. It is prote£)cd by a caflle fltuate on a mountain, and a numerous garrifon. The province of Georgia is divided between the Perfians and Turks, the greater part being under the domin'on of the former. In Turkifli Georgia arc here comprehended Mengrelia, Imeretta, and the fouth part of Circaflia; which feveral countries are fituate between 42 and 46 degrees of ead longitude, and between 40 and 45 degrees of north latitude. They lie in the form of a crefccnt about the cad end of the Euxine Sea, having mount Caucafus on the north, the Perfian Georgia on the ead, and Turcomania on the fouth. Georgia, particularly the northern part, is very mountainous; but the mountains are covered with forell and fruit-trees, as well as herbage, and the foil, where cultivated, produces good corn. The inhabi- tants, however, being generally (hepherds, plough no more than is necefTary for their fubfillence, and they live in tents. The mountains are generally high, and covered with fnow great part of the year. In winter therefore the air is exccffive cold, but temperate in the valleys, and and in the fummer very hot. The country is exceed- ing healthful, and the inhabitants remarkable for the natural elegance of their perfons, as well as the acute- nefs of their genius. They are of a good ilature, and their features and complexion much admired. Hence the Turks and Perfians rcplenifh their harams and feraglios, by means of the Jews of Conftantinople and other great towns, who with this view purchafe, of their parents or matters, the mod beautiful young girls in the country, and give them fuch an education as may qualify them either for the royal fcraglio, or the harami of balhawi and great men. Neither are the parents, as might b« imagined, averfe to difpofing of their children in this muiiner; but ufe every art tu im- prove the beauty of their daughters, that they may fell to the greater advantage. On this account, ino- culation for the fniall-pox has been praif>ifcd in Georgia for many ages, and hence introduced into our own country. 11": price paid by the merchants is not the only inducement of the parents to this kind of traffic: they flatter thcmfclves with the expciElation, that their daughters lliall be advanced to a high rank, and the fortune of their families edablifhcd. I'hofu hopes are frequently not vain ; for when a giil happens to be introduced into the royal haram, or becomes the wife or miftrefs of a bafhaw, it is ufual to fend for her nearell relations, and promote them to fome profit- able pod. The youth of this country being for the moft part fpri;^htly and ingenious, young lads are likcwife pur- chafed, and educated at Coirltantlnople or Ifpahan, in fuch arts as may render them ufcful members of the (late. Out of which fcminary the be^lcrbegs, or viceroys, beys, bafliaws, and governors are taken. The fouthcrn provinces of Georgia are fubjcdl either to the Perfians or Turks; but the northern appear to be independent of any foreign power. They will fomeiimes acknowledge fubjeilion to Turky, and at others, to Ruflia, as may happen to be mod conve- nient; but their attachment is precarious, and the mountainous nature of the country would render it extremely difficult to fecurc their obedience by force. In refpcdl to the internal government of the northern parts, the inhabitants fcem tu be divided only into two ranks or orders, namely, thofe of lords and flaves. In each fubdivifion of the country is a chief or princr, to whom the former acknowledge vaflalagc; but the power of thefc princes is greatly controulcd by the ariftocracy. The common people have no cxclufivc property in the lands or goods they pofTefs, Even their wives and children pertain to their rcfpcdtive lords, who may fell or difpofe of them at plcafure. By fome of the inhabitants the Mahometan religion is profefl'ed, but the greater part arc Chriftians of the Greek or Armenian communion. CHAP. n. 0/ NatoUa; er /fia Minor, Asia Minor is divided into four parts, namely, ■'■ •*■ Amafia, Aladulia, Curamania, and Natolia Proper. Amafia comprehends the country known in ancient times by the name of Pontus, or Regis Pontica, fo called from the Pontus Euxinus, along xvhith it lay. This was the kingdom of the Mithridates, a fucceflion of kings of that name, and was formerly famous for its poifons. The Srfl of its chief towns towards the weft is Amafia, fituate feventy miles fouth of the Euxine Sea, on the banks of the river Liris, a river famous for its long windings. It was anciently the refidcnce of the kings of Cappadocia, fomctimeg of the Turkifli beg- [Asia. ft'l.TJjIin, or either arc the difpt.nng (if ly art to im- at they may ccounc, ino- praiTHfed in uvc(i into our nicrchiliKS il this kind ot° cxpctSlation, a high rank, flicd, Thofe girl happens or becomes al to fend for fome profic- the moft part likcwife pur- : or If'pahan, icmbers of the e^lcrbegj, or arc taken. fubjciSl either lern appear to They will urky, and at : moft conve- ious, and the Uld render it jcc by force, if the northern only into two Is and flaves. hief or prince, ilagcj but the roulcd by the e no cxcluHve loflefs. Even leir rofpeftive m at plcafure, tan religion is iftians of the GENERAL TRAVELLED. arts, namely, and Natolia :ry known in Regis Pontics, which it lay. s, a fucceflion f famous for the weft is e Euxinc Sea, er famous for 5 refidence of the Turkifh beg- Natolia.] beglerbeg or viceroy. It is pleafantiy fituattd on an eminence, having a profpeA over an extenfive plain on the fouth. The buildings are mean, nor is it » place of much trade; but there are fome magnifi- cent ruins, where the palaces of the ancient princes had formerly ftood. Amafia is fuppofcd to be the birth-place of Strabo the geographer. The Greek Chriftians have here an archbifhop. Sixty miles north -caft of Amafia, on the Euxine Sea, ftands Themifcyra, now Leris, famous in tra- dition for having been the capital of the Amazons. Virgil takes notice of it on this account. Quales Threiciic, cum flumina Thermodooniis Pulfant, U. piflis bellantur Amazones armis. Eight miles eaft of Amafia,' ftands Comana, a town anciently dedicated to Bi llonu, whofc temple, we arc informed by Cicero, w'.s extremely rich, and held in great veneration. Tocat is fituate at the foot of a mountain, in 37 degrees of taft longitude, and 41 degrees 3 minutck of north latitude. It is a populous city, inhabited by Turks, Armenians, Grecians, and Jews. The Ar- menians are moftly mechanics, working in copper and other hard ware; and the Chriftians here make excel- lent wine. There is likewife a confiderable manu- faflure of Turky leather. This town is a great thoroughfare of the caravans bound from Turky to Perfia, Arabia and India, The adjacent country abounds in good fruit, and produces falFron in great quantity, Trapazond (lands likewife at the foot of a mountain, on the (hore of the Euxine Sea. It is a large, populous city, well built, and within the walls are groves and gardens intermixed with the houfes. It was formerly defended by a (Irong caftle founded on a rock, but now much decayed ; as likewife !s the har- bour, which at prefent large veflels cannot enter, and therefore their trade is much declined. This place was fubjc£l to the Roman and Grecian emperors, About the year 1209, David Comnenus, a French- man, ufurped the dominion of it, with the title of duke. His fucceflbr, John Comnenus, aflumed that of emperor, and their defcendants continued fove- reigns of this town and the neighbouring country, till the year 1460, when Mahomet II. took pofleflion of it, and put to death David, the laft of thofe petty emperors. Aladulia, or the beglerbelic of Marat, comprehends Cappadocia and Armenia Minor, having Armenia Major on the eaft, Cilicia on the fouth, and Galatea on the weft. The river Mai us or Lima paiTes through the fouth of this province, and difcharges itfelf into the Euphrates, The rivers Halys and Iris have here alfo their rife, and, running northwards, fall into the Euxine Sea. The chief towns are, Caefarea, now Caifar, the capital when fubjeft to the Romans; Marat, or Morofch, fituate in the fouth-eaft part ol the province, near the Euphrates, and ufually the feat of the beglerbeg. Another of the chief towns is Nifla, lying on the borders of Armenia. No. 9^ let Caramania, the fouthern divilion of thi Lefs Aliai comprehends the prov! ces of Lycia, Pamphylia, Pifi- dia, Lycaonia, and Cilicia, Lycia, now called Montrefcli, has Phrygja Major and Pamphylia on the north and eaft; the Mediterranean Sea on the fouth, and Caria on the weft ; furroundcJ on every fide by mountains, except ori the fea-coilt. It has three towns of confiderable note, one of which is Mira, or Limira, the capital, fituated on a river of the fame name. Another is Tclmcdus, one of the fix towns allotted by Ali'xaiider to the city of Halicar- naftus ) and the htft is Xanthus, which ftands on s cognominal river, Pamphylia has Pifldia on the north, v^illcit on th* caft, the Mediterranean Sea on the fuuth, and Lycia on the weft. The chief towns arc, Attalia or Satalia, a port-town, with a caftle defending the harbour, the entrance of which is very difficult ; Pcrga, ftanding on the river Ceftrius, remarkable for a temple anciently dedicated to Diana ; and Syda or Candabra, a port- town in the eaft part of the province. Pifidia is a fmall province, confifting of one fine plain, encompafted with mountains. Its chief towns are, Antioch, TermcfTus, and SagalalTus, Eaft of Pifidia, lies Lycaonia, likewife 3 fmall pro- vince. One of its principal towns is Lyftra, where the inhabitants were about to facrifice to Paul and Barnabas. Another is Iconium or Cogni, the capital of Lycaonia, and of the whole province of Caramania. This town is fituate near a frelh-water lake, about a hundred miles north of the Mediterranean Sea, and here the beglerbeg has his refidence. Cilicia extends two hundred and fifty miles along the coaft of the Mediterranean, having Syria on th(S eaft, and Pamphylia on the weft. The breadth of this province from north to fouth is about fifty miles. The northern parts are very mountainous, betweett which and the fea are many difficult pafles. The capital of the country is the city Tarfus, the place of St. Paul's nativity. It lies in 33 degrees of eaft Ion* gitude, and 37 of north latitude, on the river Cydnut, the water of which, from its exceflive coldnefs, had almoft proved fatal to Alexander, on bathing in it. Tarfus is now called ThorafTe, and fometimes Hemfa. Another uf the chief towns is Iflus, now Ajazzo, fituate on a bay of the Levant, near the river Pinarus. At this place happened the fiscond battle between Alexander and Darius. It was taken by the former, but afterwards retaken by the latter, who cruelly put to death the Macedonians left in it. Here Cicero, as he relates, pitched his tent, on the very fpot where Alexander had encamped. Natolia Proper, or Afia Minor, comprehends the provinces of Pontus Paphlagonia, Galatia, Phrygia Major, Lydia or Msenia, Doris, Caria, Ionia, Eolis, Myfia, including Phrygia Minor, and Bithynia. The name of Pontus anciently extended to all the provinces fituated on the fouthern fhore of the Euxine Sea. The province of Pontus Paphlagonia therefore is bounded by this fea on the north, by Cappadocia on the eaft, Galatea on the fouth, and by Bithynia on toA THE M D R N [A'lA. the weft. The chief towns aie llcracira, now IVn- derachi, • port-town in the nurth-wi^ pjri of the province i Clauditipoliii, an inland town, fouth of Heraclea) and Amullris, a purt-town, eaft of Heraclea. Thii town took its name from a Perfian I^Jy, the daughter of Uxyaihras, brother of Dariui Codomanui, and the conforc of Dionyfius, tyrant of Heraclca. Pliny, in a letter to I'rajan, callt it an elegant and griMtly ornamented city, particularly on account of a very beautiful and extenfivt Oreet. iiinopc, J |iott-town, is fituate on an iflhmus formed by thu Kuxine Sea, in 37 degrees of ead longitude, and 42 of north latitude. This city is of fo great anti- quity, that Sirabo refers it to the Argonauts ( yet it fcmained inconftderable till it received a colony from the Mijefians ; after which it became very flourifliir-* It was at length taken by Pharnaces, king of Pontus, grandfather of the Mithridates conquered by the Komani, and became the royal refidence. This city, which yet retains its ancient name, is memorable for having given birth to Dio^'cnis the Cynic. Of Galatia, which lies fuuth of Pnphiagonia, the chief towiu are, Therma, remarkable for its hot baths; and Angouri or Ancyra. This city is faid to have been built by Midas, king of Thrygia, and to lake its name from an anchor found at the place. The neighbourhood of Ancyra was the fcene of '.Vio great battles; in one of which Pompey ob- tained a vi£lory over Mithridates, and in the other, Tamerlane defeated Bajaset, whom he alfo made pri- foner, about the year 1400. The city within the walls is inhabited by Turks; the Armenian and Greek Ihriftians live in the fuburbs, not being permitted to enter the gates. It is computed that the inhabitants amount to forty-five thoufand, of whom forty thoufand are Turks. In the neighbourhood of this city is an extraordinary breed of wild goats, with hair as foft as filk, of which are made the iincfl (luffs. Phrygia Major, the prefent Gormian, is an inland province, having Bithynia on the north, and Pam- phylia on the fouth; and giving rife to the rivers Sangarius, Hermus, Murcius, and Meander. One of its chief towns is Chintaia or Chontaia, formerly called Cotxum, once the feat of the I'urkiih emperors, and now of the beglerbeg. The next chief town is Gordium, the feat of Gor- dion, king of Phrygia, fituate on the river Sangarius. Here anciently flood a temple of Jupiter, in which, tied with cords to a pillar, was a chariot dedicated to the fun. A tradition prevailing, that whoever could untie the knots that faflened it, fhould have the do- minion of Afia, Alexander, after feveral attempts, cut the knots with his fword; faying it was no matter how they were undone, provided that the chariot was unloofed; and he thenceforward flattered himfclf with the conquefl of Afia. The other chief towns are, Apamea, ColofHe, and Hierapolis. CololTx was once a confidcrable city, to which St. Paul direiled one of his epiftles. It was deftroyed by an earthquake, in the time of Nero, and now lies in ruins, 7 Hierapolis was feated upon a portion of the Mrflligii, beneath the fuinmits ol the mountain. At :i ilillaDcr, this objefl appears as a white lofty clifT, comiiofud uf chalk; but on coming more near, the traveller iit aflo- niftied to find it exhibit to the view an inimcnfe frozen cafcade, with its furface wavy, as of water fuddciily fixed. This extraordinary phenomenon is an incruft> ation, produced by the hot waters of Hier-ipolis, an- ciently famous for their petrifying quality. The road up to the ruins, which appe.its as a wide and high caufcy, is likewifc a petrification; over- looking many green fpots, once vineyards and gardens, feparated by partitions of the fame fubdancr. The ruins are fituated on a flat, to which, at travcllera afcend, they pafs by fcpukhres with infciiptions, and behold the theatre on the right hand. Near the margin of the cliti° are the remains of a hu^ flruflurc, fuppofed to have been either baths, or a gymiurium. Beyond are the maflivc walls of edifices, fevrral of them leaning from their perpendicular, and fiicniing every moment ready to fall ; the effefls of violent earthquakes, to which the country is extremely fub- jcifl. In a recefs of the mountain is the area of a flddium. The fite has been computed about two hundred paces wide, and a mile in length. The theatre is a very large and fumptuous (Iruiiluic, and the mofl entire that i!> to be feen in tliol'c parts. A portion of the profcenium is flanding. In the heap which lies in coniufion, are many pieces of fculptui* well executed in baflb relievo, with fragments of archi- trave infcribed, but disjointed; or fo immured wi:h maflive marbles, that it would be extremely diilicuk to obtain any information from tiiem. The chara£icr is large and bold, with ligatures. The marble feats are flill unrcmoved; and the numerous ranges are divided by a low fcmicircular wall, near mid-way, with infcriptions on the face of it, but moftly illegible. In one of thofe, which is fhort and imperfcd, Apollo Archigetes, or the /tader, is requcfted to be piopitiout. In another compartment, inciilion is made o( the city by its name Hierapolis; and on a third is an encomium in verfe, which may be thus tranllated : «' Hail golden city Hier.ipolis, the fpot to be preferred before any in wide Afia ; revered for the rills of the nymphs ; adorned with fpleni^or ! " It may not here be improper to remark, that from the appearance of feveral theatres and a fladium, in this country, in which many of the feals remain in their places and entire; and from confidcring the height, width, and manner of arrangement, there it rcafon to believe that the ancient Afiatics fat at tlieir plays and public fpci^adcs, in the fame manner as the modern, with their legs croflbd and gathered under them, and probably upon carpets. The waters of Hierapolis were peculiarly qualified for dying wool, giving it from roots a tincture which rivalled the purple, and were a principal fource of the riches of the place. The company of dyers is menti« oned in an infcription on a fquare building among the fepulchres. The Plutonium, or peflilentiul cavern, fur which Hierapolis was likewifc anciently noted, we are Natolia.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 103 are informed yet remaini. Of ihii ciiy w« Epifletui, llie Stoic (ihilolnplitr, Thr prownce ot I.ydia, or Mania, hai Phrygia on the north, and Cafia on the fouth. 'Ihli wai the kingdom of the celebrated Croefui. The capital city Sardis was fitiiaie on the river Padlolui, about feventy miles eaft of Smyrna. In was once the fined city in Afia Minor, and one of the fevcn churches mentioned in Scripture; but being demolifhed by an earthquake, lies now in ruini. The fite of it, which at prefcnt ii named Sait, is green and flowery. Coming from the caft, we have the ground- plot of the theatre on our left hand, with a fmall brook running before it, Thii flru^ture was in a brow, which unites with the hill of the acropulib, and was called Prion. Some pieces of the vault, which (upported feats, and completed the fcmicirclc, remain. Going on, we pafs by remnants of mnlly buildings) marble pieces fulhining heavy fragments of arches of brick j and more indiftin£t ruins. Thefc are in the plain before the hill of the acropolis. On the right hand, near the road, is a portion of a large edifice. The walls are (landing of two large, lofty, and very long rooms, with a fpace between them, as of a palFage, This is conjectured to have been the houfe of Cruefua, once appropriated by the Sardians, as a place of retirement, to fupcr- annuatcd citizens. It was called the gerufia, and in it, as fome Roman authors have remarked, was exem- plified the extreme durability of the ancient brick. The walls in this ruin have double arches beneath, and confifl chiefly of brick; with Tome layers of ftone. The bricks art extremely fine and good, of various fixes, fome flut and broad ; and were united with a cement fo tenacious, that it is faid to be unfufceptiblc of decay. The hill of (he acropolis appears from the plain to be triangular. It is fandy, and the fidea rough. The eminence affords a fine profpcft of the country, and in the walls are two or three fragments with in- fcriptions. Not far from the weft end is the celebrated river Patflolus, which rifes in mount Tmolus, and once flowed through the middle of the agora, or market-place of Rnrdis, in its way to the Hcrmus, bringing down from the mountain bits of gold. The treafures of Croefus and his anceftois were colle£led chiefly from the river, but in time the fuurce failed. The Padiolus, after fnow or rain, ruflies down in a torrent. At other times the ilream is fhallow, the bed fandy, in colour inclining to a reddifh yellow. In afccnding the acropolis, we are fuddenly ftruck with the view of the ruin of a temple, in a retired fituation, beyond the Padolus. Five columns are Handing, one without the capital, and another with the capital awry. The architrave was of two Hones. It is conjedured that this was the temple dedicated to the local goddefs Cybebe or Cybele, and which was damaged in the conflagration of Sardis by the Milefians. It was of the Ionic order, and had eight columns in front. The fhafts are. fluted, and the capitals defigned and carved with exquifite tafte and fkill. It in im- poHible to behold, without deep regret, this imperfedl remnant of lb beautiful and glorious an edifice. Before Sardii, on the opponte Tide of the p!ain, are many barrows on an emincnci. Near the lake Ciyg:ea, which was within forty (ladia, or five miles of Sardis, was the burying- place of the Lydiin kings; and here the barrotsrs arc of various ficet. Four (jr five are diflinguifhed by their fuperior magnitude. All of them are covered with green turf, and retain their conical form. One of the barrows on this eminence, near the middle, and towards Sardis, in Lydia, is in- ferior only to the works of the Egyptians and Baby« lonians. It was the monument of Halyartes, the father of Crcefus. Not far thence is mount SIpylus, to a phenomenon extant in which, the fable of the transformation of Niube, the daughter of Tantalus, is indebted for its origi.i, I'his phenomenon is found to be the efpedl of a certain portion of light and fhade on a part of Sipylus, perceivable at a particular point of view. Another of the towns of Lydia is Philadelphia, likewife one of the fevcn churches. It is now a poor town, called Ala-fhakir, inhabited by about two thou- fand Chriftians. The moft remarkable obje£i here is the remnant of a duiSl, which has conveyed water of a petrifying quality. The water has incrufted fome vegetable fubHances, which have perifhed, and left behind, as it were, their moulds. The next town of Lydia is Thyatira, likewife ona of the feven churches which were addrcfTed by St« John. It is fituate on the river Hcrmus, thirty miles north-weft of Philadelphia, and is now called Ak-hiflar, Laod'iea, another of the fevcn churches, is fituats on the caftern limits of this province. It is mentioned by Cicero, as confiderable for trade, but is now in ruins. The firft ruin which prefents itfclf is of an amphitheatre, in a hollow, the form oblong, and the area about a thoufand foot in extent, with many feati remaining. At the weft end is a wide vaulted paflagc, defigned for the horfes and chariots, about a hundred and forty foot long. The entrance from without is choked up, except a fmall aperture, at which a glim- mering light enters ; and the foil has rifen above the impofts of the interior arch. This has an infcription on the mouldings in large charadlers in Greek, which may be thus tranflated : " To the emperor Titus Csefar Auguftus Vcfpafian, fon of the emperor, the god Vefpafian ; and to the people. Nicoftratus the younger, fon of Lycius, fon of Nicoftratus, dedicated at his own expence: Nicoftratui his heir having completed what remained of the work, and Marcus Ulpius Trajanus the proconful having confecrated it." The feventh confulate of Vef- pafian falls on the feventy-ninth year of the Chriftian ira, and the confulfhip of Trajan on the clghty- fecond. Twelve years were confumed in pcrfefling the ftrudure. Near another ruin is a pedeftal with an infcription, which illuftratcs that on the arch. It relates to the fame family, and to the two bencfaiJlors. " The fenate and people have honoured Tatia, daughter of Nicoftratus fon of Pericles, a new heroine, on account of the magiftracics, miniftries, and public works of her father, and likewife on accosnt of her great uT.cl» «M THE MODERN [Asia. uncU NiceOratui, who \ut]y, Mnitt hii bene- fftAioni, wai pricft of lh« ciljr, uid clungcd ihc flidium into in amphitheatre." The city incrcaruig, the (ladium, it Oiould fcem, wai not fufficienily cnpa cioui, but Nicotiratu* enlarged or lengthened it, and converted it into an amphitheatre. On the north fide of the amphitheatre, towardt the eaft end, it the ruin o( a large edifice. It cunnili of many pien and archet of ((one, with pedrft.ilt and marble frigmenti, I'hia fabric wa« (icrhapi the re- pofitory of the lawi, and contained the fenate>houfe, ■nd public officei. At the eaft end of ihii ruin, if a mafi of incruftaiion formed by the current, which wai conveyed to it by earihrn pipci ^ the wateri of Laodirea having a petrifying quality, like thofe of Hierapolis, From thii ruin may be fecn the txleum, which fronted the fouth. I'he feats remain on the fide of the hill. The profcrnium liei in a cunfufed heap. The whole wat of marble. Sculpture had been la- vilhed on it, and the ftyle favoured lefs of Grecian fade than Roman magnificence. On the bank of the Meander, we difcover the ruin of an ancient bridge, confifting of half the central arch, with one fmallcr arch entire i and we may obferve fome flones and veftigci of a building, which is fuppofed to have been a tempit of Menei, called Carour ( • deity that Wis wor- Oilpped in a peculiar manner. The temple waa between Caroura and Laodicea, and had once been a great feminary of phyficiani. The river Meander, which makes fo many wind- ings in this country, was anciently noted for the pro- du£tion of new land, occafiuned by its pafling through the ploughed grounds of Phrygia and Caria; whence colle£ling much flime, it added to the coaft at its mouth. The Meander was indiAable for remcing the foil, when its margin tumbled in ; and the pet ' .n who recovered damages was paid from the produce ^i the ferries. Thofe downfall of the banks were very frequent, and are fuppofed to be the caufe of the wind- ing fo remarkable in the channel of this river. From the alterations already eiTefled at the mouth of the Meander, there is reafon to conclude, that in a feries of years the Oiore will protrude far into the fea, and perhaps unite the iflands which at prefent lie at a didance. Caria and Doris, ufually laid together, compofe that province now called Adinelli; having the Medi- terranean Sea on the fouth and wefl. In this province ftood Miletus, a city of great antiquity, faid to have been huilt by Miletus, the companion of Bacchus. This once flourilhing emporium is now a very mean place, but ftiU called Palat or Palatia, the palacis. The chief relic of its former magnificence is a ruined theatre, which is vifible afar off, and was a mod capacious edifice, mcafuring in length four hundred and fifty- feven foot. The external face of this vaft fabric is marble. The profcenium or front has been removed. The feats ranged, as ufual, on the flope uf a hill, and a few of them remain. The vaults 2 which fuppnrtrd tlie exiretiiiitra, with the arihet or aveniici in the two win^i, are conftru.''.ed with jrcat folidity. The whiile fite of the town, to a great extent, it fprcad with rubblfti, and over-run with thicken. The vefliget of the ancient city are pircet of wnll, broken arches, and a few fcattrred pi'deAah, wiih infcriptioni, a fquare marble urn, and many walli. I'hit was the country of Thalet, one of the fevcii wife men i and of Anaximanilcr, hi< fchiilar and luc- ceflor, the inventor of fun-di-ili-, of Anaximenci, the philofopher I Timotheui, the crlcbiatcd mufician, aiul other eminent prrfoni. Among the nun.cfous trophies of this ancient city, it was famous for its wool. — — -» quamvii Milefia magno Vellera mutentur, I'yrios incoi^a rubores. Myndus it a port-town on a bay of the fea, in a part of the divifion culled Doris. This is the citjr which Diogenei, the cynic, obfcrving to be very fmall, and the gates difprnportionally large, called to the in- habitants to (hut their gates, to prevent the efcape of the town. Priene was fituate on the fide of mount Mycale,' near which the lonians celebrated the Panionia, or yearly aflembliei in honour of Heliconian Neptune. It was alfo the country of Bias, one of the feven wife men \ who, when the place was taken by the enemy, and the citizens were flying with their mod valuable elFefls, being afked, why he did not do as they did? replied, he always carried his bed eflTeAs with him, meaning his philofophy and wifdom. Being a man of the dtiflell equity, Juftitia Prientnfit became proverbial. This city was famous for the temple of Minerva Polias, the remains of which yet evince its former elegance and grandeur. When entire, it overlooked the city, which was feated on the fide of the mountain, flat beneath flat, in gradation, to the edge of the plain. The areas are levelled, and the communication pre- ferved by deps cut in the flopes. Below the tempi* are broken columns, and pieces of marble, the remains of edifices of the Ionic and Doric orders. Farther down is the ground-plat of the dadium, by the city- wall. The area was narrow, and the feats ranged only on the fide facing the plain. The whole circuit of the wall of the city is danding, befides feveral portions within it of admirable folidity and beauty. At Ure, about twenty-two miles from Miletus, is the celebrated temple of Apollo Didymeus. It is ap- proached by a gentle afcent, and feen afar oflf, the land towards the fea lying flat and level. The columns, yet entire, are (o exquifitely fine, and the marble mafa fo vad and noble, that it is impoflible perhaps to conceive greater beauty and majedy of ruin. HalicarnalTus, once a flourifhing city, is now nothing more than a heap of ruins. No vedige remains of the tomb ere^ed by Artemifia for her hudiand Mau- foleus, though formerly cdeemed one of the feven wonders. Of this city was Herodotus, called by Cicero the Father of Hifttry ; and likewife Dionyfin:, not only a good hiflorian but a critic, Ionia Natolia.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. lOj lonu trid Eolii form in conjunAion ■ long er«ck of Unii, extending from fuulh to north, upon tht cotft of the Archipelago. In thi» territory wai fituate Kphe- fui, lying in 27 degrees 40 minutci of caft longitude, and 37 degreei 5 minutci of north latitude 1 the mod illuftrioui city of lunia, and culled by Fliny, the bright orniincnt of Afu. Here Hood the celebrated temple of Ouna, which Kroflrjtui burnt to perpetuate hii memory, the Ijinc n^ht that Alejtandcr wai born. Many grand ruiiu are yet to be fecn, of the Itadium, theatre, uiliium, and ixlicr buildmgi 1 and fome ol them riiiipufcd to be the remaini of Diana'i temple, there having been a fccond ereiilcd to the honour of that ^.iJdels ii'>t inlcrior to the fdrnier. The Kphe> fiani arc now a few Urccic peal'anti, living in extreme wrctcliediicfj, and infenflbility ( the reprcfentativei of an illulliiouii pci;|)lc, ami inhuliiting the wreck of Iheir greatncfa ; funic the lubllrufliont of the glo- rious edifices which they raifed i fome beneath the v.iulis of the fladium, once the arouded fcene of their diverfions 1 .ind fome, by the abrupt precipice, in the fc'|)ulchrc> which received their afliei. Of this place *fa$ Hetaclitns the weeping pliilofophcr, Hippunax the poet, and I'-irrhafius the celebrated painter. Un the bullies of the CayDcr, near Ephefui, are thick groves of t.ill rccds, fome of which are more than twenty fuut high. This extraordinary luxuriance it perliups the rcafun why the river-god is reprcfented on the Ephcfian mcdali with this a(]>iatic, as one of bi; attributes, Myus was originally feated on a bay of the fcaj but the bay being changed into a lake, became frelh j and the town was fo much infcftcd with gnats, which fwnrmed from the water, that the inhabitants retired to Miletus. The fite of Myds is as romantic as its fortune was extraordinary J and there are here many remnants of antiquity to attradt the attention. The city- wall, which was conftrudtcd with fquare towers, like that of Ephefus, Is flill (landing, except on the fide towards the water. We behold the theatre hewn in a blanch of mount Titanus, with fome mofly rem- nants of the wall of the profceniimij but the marble feats are removed. The principal and mod confpicuous ruin is the fmall temple of Bacchus, is feated on an abrupt rock, with the front only, which is, towards the cad, acccflible, 7'he roof is deftroyed. The cell is well built of fmooth flone ivercd with a brown cruft. The portico was in aniit. The marbles which lie fcattercd about, the broken columns, and mutilated flatucs, all witncfs a remote antiquity. Without the city are the cemeteries of its early in- habitants; graves cut in the rock, fuited to the human flature at all ages ; with innumerable flat ftoncs, which fervcd as lids. The city of Myfis was allotted to Themifloclei, by Artaxerxes, to furnifh his table with fifli, in which the lake greatly abounds. At the head of the lake are veftiges of an ancient building, fuppofcd to have been Thymbria. By it was a charonium or facred cavej one of thofe which the ancients imagined to communicate with the infernal regions. No, 9, . At Zille, th« ancient Claroi, fi)m« ruini ar« to b« f««n, fuppofed to be of tha temple of Apollo, who had an oracle at this placet but there fermi to exili no memorial of the facrcd grove of afh-trees. In th« nci^jhbourhoud of Claroi, flood Colophon, one of tha cities which laid claim to tha birth of Homer. At Lcbedui, which was anciently noted for its hot waters, are veDiges of ar> old wall) within which, befida rubbifh, are fome pieces of Doric columns. This wai the great refidence of llige players, and tha place where pinple ad'embled from all parts of Ionia, to celebrate annual games in honour of Uaechui, Teoi, now called lioJrun, is at prefciit almoll eii' tirely defolate. The walls appear to have been about five miles in circuit) without which are vaults of fepulchres Itripped of their marble. Here are th« remains of a temple of Bacchus, one of the moft cele- brated (IrutHurcs in loniai and atluMlic i^ confpicuoua in the fide of the hill. This was the country of Ana- creon the poet, Hecat.-eus the hiftorian, and Protagoraa the philofopher. I'he books of the latter, as contain- ing atheidical do<5lrines, were burnt by orde' of iho Athenians ; and his father Menander was fu opulent, as to entertain Xerxes and his numerous attendants on his march againll Greece, In the time of Anacreon, the Tei.ms migrated, from a love of liberty, to Thrace; but fome of them return- ing, the city again flourifhed. It is now however dcferted, and likely to continue in that fituation. The fite is a wildernefs; and the low grounds, which arc wet, produce the iris or flag, which was ftampcJ on the money of Teos. Erythrz has long been dcferted, and even flripped of its ruins, except fome vaults of fepulchres^ and other fragments. The walls of Erythrar were cre£led on two femicircular rocky brows, and had fquare tower* ai regular diflances. They were very thick, the (tones malTive and rugged, of the mafonry called pfeudifo- domum. In the middle was a (hallow purling (Iream, clear as cryflal, which now turns a folitary mill in its way to the fra. This rivulet was anciently named Alcos, and was remarkable for producing hai. on the bodies of thofe who drank of it. Near the mouth is a piece of ordinary Mofaic pavement, By a conical hill on the north, are vcfliges of an ample theatre in the mountain fide. Of the celebrated temple of Her» cules no traces now remain. Pairing by the fite of Clazomene, of which no veftige is difcivcrabic, we arrive at Smyrna, feated on the bottom of a fine bay, in 27 degrees of eaft longitude, and 37 degrees 30 minutes north latitude. The town is about four miles in circumference ; the river Mclus running through it, on the banks of which it is faid that Homer was born. It has a large com« modious harbour, commanded byacaflle at the entrance, and is the principal mart of the country. Though the fituation of Smyrna is exceeding plcafant, th« climate, during great part of the year, is exccflivc hot, unhcalthful, and fubjeiS to earthquakes. Jt was ona of the fcven churches addrelTcd by St. John. In feveral places may yet be difcovcred vcftiges of the old wall, which is of a folid maiTive conftru£lioii. Dd I, io6 THE MODERN [AsiAi It confids of hard cement and rubble, but has been faced with better material). The ground-plat of the fiadium is dill obfervabie, though ft.-jpped of its marble feats and decorations, and now fubjeAed to the culture of the plough. If appears as a long dale, femicircular or rounded at the top. One fide was on the ilope of mount Pagus, and the other raifed on a vaulted fub- flruAion, which remains. The ladies here wear the oriental drefs, confifting of large trowfers or breeches, which reach to the ancle j long vefts of rich filk, or velvet, lined in winter with collly furs; and round their waift, an enr.oroidered xone with clafps of filyer or gold. Their hair i^ platted, and defcends down the back, often in great profufio.i. The girls have fometimes above twenty thick treflet, befides two or three encircling the head, as a coronet, and fct off with flowers and plumes of feathers, pearls, or other jewels. They commonly fiain it of a chefnut colour, which is the moft defired. Their apparel and carriage are alike antique. It is remarkable that the trowfers are mentioned in a frag- ment of Sappho, as part of the female drefs. Myfia, including Phrygia Minor, lies between the fea of Marmora or Propontis, on the north, and Lydia on the fouth, having the Archipelago on the weR. Through this province runs the ri"er anciently called Granicus, on the banks of which Alexander obtained his firft vii^ory over the Perfians. Pergamus is fituate near the Egean Sea, in 27 degrees 30 minutes of eaft longitude, and 38 degrees of north latitude. This was the royal reHdence of Eumenes, and of the kings of the Attali ; the laft of whom, by bis will, transferred the kingdom to the Romans. Here fiood an ancient temple of Efculapius, of which no veftige remains. The ornament of Pergamus was the royal library, which contained, according to Plu- iuch, two hundred thoufand volumes. In this city were invented the membrana pergamena, or parchment, for the ufe of books, and likewife tapeftry. It was the birth-place of Galen, and Oribafius, and one of the feven churches threatened by St. John. Lampfacus is fituate on the fouthern fhore of the Propontis, and retains its ancient name, It was af- figned by Artaxerxes to Themiftocles, for furniflaing his table with wine, in v/hich the country abounded. Alexander having threatened this city with ruin, for the favour it had (hewn to the Perfiani, it was faved by the addrefs of Anaximcnes the hiflorian, who was fent by his fellow citizens to deprecate the king's dif- pkafure. The latter being informed of the deiign, folemiily declared he would do the very reverfe of Anaximenes's requcft; who therefore, on his arrival, begged the king \jtterly to deftroy Lampfacus; which he could not do on account of his oath. On the promontory, high above the fea, flands Sigeum, now Giaurkioi, a dcfpicable village. The high hill of Giaurkioi was the acropolis or citadel of the ancient town ; ami a mean church en the brow at prel'cnt occupies the fite of the Athciicurn or temple of Minerva } the remains of which, confilllng of marble fragments, are fcattered round. The famous Slgcan ii'ifaiption lies on the right hand as we r^^ter this building | and on the left is part of a pedeftal, of fine white marble, with fculpture in bas-relief, the fubjeifl of which is the reprefentation of young children, with the iccuftomed offering* to Minerva. Within the fame building was found a marble, once depofited in the precinfls of the temple, and now preferved in the library of Trinity College in Cambridge. It contains a decree made by the Sigeans two hundred and feventy- eight years before the Chriftian xraj and enafls, amongft other articles, the ereAing in the temple an equefirian fiatue of king Antiochus on a pedeftal of white marble, with an infcription, in which his reli- gious regard for the temple Is mentioned, and he is ftyled the f:;viour of the people. The temple of Sigfum was of remote aiitiquity, if not coeval with the city, which is faid to have been built from the ruins of Troy. The ruins of the ancient Ilium were fought for in vain in the time of Julius Cxfar. tota teguntur Pergama dumetis : etiam periere ruinse. LucAtr. Of the Troja Nova, which is fuppofed to have been built by Alexander the Great, or at leaft much enlarged by him and Lyfimachus, there are fome noble remains j but the ingenious Mr. Wood ftrongly contends, that thij place muft be at a confidcrable diftance from the famous Ilium. This opinion he founds upon an ex- amination of the prefent ftate of the Troad, compared with the topographical fcenes, and fome of the inci- dents in the Iliad. The prefent Troy, he obferves, ftands upon the fea; but this is not the Troy of Homer; for that was higher up, and looked towiuds the Hellefpont, not towards the Egean. He is certain that the Scamander is confiderably changed from what it was in the days of Homer. The hot fpring, ac- cording to the poet, was one of the fources of this river: but it is now much lower than the prefent fource, and has no communication with the Scimandcr.- The fountains whence the river took its rife were, according to Homer, clofe by the walh of the city : but the ground about the fountain, obferved by Mr. Wood, is too fteep and rugged for the fituation of a city. Such a fiturtion, he obferves, cannot be made to accord with the purfuit of Hedor, nor with many other incidents in the poem. The diftance alfo of the prefent fource from the Hellerpont is too great to admit of the aflions of the day. For thefe reafons, Mr. Wood fixes the fituation of the city lower down than the fprings of the Scamander; and he likewife ventures to cut off fome miles from our ancient map of the Trojan plain, upon a prefumptlon, fupported by the natural hlftory of the country, that a great part of the plain, which extends to the Hellefpont, has been produced fince the time of Homer. It is not to be queftioned, that in the courfe of near three thoufand years, the Troad, as well as other parts on the Ionian coaft, has unJcry that much of of the fcenery in the Iliad exifted only in the poet's imagination } and that this was the csfc, there feems additional rcafon to conclude, from the admired epifodc ■t the beginning of the twelfth book, intended to ob- viate the queflion, why no ruins remained of the Grecian wall. This paffage being fo pertinent to the fubjea in controverfy, dcfcrves to be quoted. «' This flood, while Heftor and Achilles rag'd. While facred Troy the warring hofts engag'd ; But when her fons were flain, her city burn'd. And what furviv'd of Greece to Greece rcturn'dj Then Neptune and Apollo fliook the Ihore, And Ida's fummits pour'U their wat'ry ftorej Riiefus and Rhodius then unite their rills, Carefus roaring down the ftony hills, ^fepus, Granicus, with mingled force. And Xanthus, foaming from his fruitful iburcej And gulphy Simois, rolling to the mai.n Helmets, and fliields, and godlike heroes flain : Thefe turn'd by Phccbus from their wonted ways Delug'd the rampires nine continua' days; The weight of waters faps the yielding wall, And to the fea the floating bulwarks fall. Inceflant catarafts the thund'rer pours. And half the flties defcend in fluicy Ihow'rs j The god of ocean marching (lern before. With his huge trident wounds the trembling Ihore, Vaft ftones and piles from their foundation heavea. And whelms the fmoaky ruins in the waves. Now fmooth'd with fand, and levell'd by the flood. No fragment tells where once the ruin flood." But whatever increafe or change the plain may have received fince the fiege of Troy, the adjacent moun- tains could not eafily be affeiled by the caufc of any fuch alteration. We therefore find that mount Gar- garus, Cotylus, and Leilum, have only changed their names; and continue to make the fame conTpicuous figure, which diftinguiflied them in the Iliad. The defcription given by Homer of mount Ida likewife correfponds with its prefent flate; for its numerous fummits are ftill covered V/ith pine-tree? and it abouii'^: with fountains. According to Mr. Wood's computation, the ancient kingdom of Priam includes in its circumference about five hundred Engliih miles. Of this above two hundred are a maritime tra£t, waflted by the Propontis, Hellefpont, and ^gean feas. Few fpots of equal extent enjoy more natural advantages. The climate is temperate and healthful ; the hills are covered with woods ; and the plains, which are fertile, well watered. The country produces oil ; and in ancient times fome parts of it were famous for wine. There are mineral waters, and hot baths, which the natives ufe for fcveral diforders; and the mountains contain mines, which probably might be wroiight to advantage. That part of the territory in which Troy flood, prefents to the eye of the fpeflator an extenflve plain, diverfified with a few barrovi's, and divided by the Sca- mander. This celebrated river fprings from a rock in mount Ida ; and dripping in a fmall quantity down a ro- mantic woody clifT, it is foon joined by another ftream. The whole length of its courfe, in a ftralt line, Is com^jUtcd to be about twenty-three miles; but far above this extent, :''its numerous windings be included. Near Ene, a conflderable village, it receives the Samois, amidft corn fields interfpcrfed with fine mulberry trees. At the times when the Scamander has been vifited by travellers, it was in its loweft flate, with hardly water fufficient to fuppoit a continued current to the Tea. It rcprefented a fucceflion of feveral fmall ftreams, produced from different fprings; all which were ab- forbed in the gravelly channel, after a fliort and languid courfe. In this fituation it muft have been on the march of the Perfians towards Greece, when we are told by Herodotus, that it was drank up by Xerxes's arm/. Bithynia, called by the Turks Beefanguel, is bounded on the wefl by the Thracian Bofphorus, and a part of the Propontis ; on the foutii by the river Rhyndacus and mount Olympus; on the north by the Euxinc Sea; and on the eafl by the ancient Paphlagonia. It was fo rich and fruitful a country of old, as to be diflinguiflied by the title oi Bithynia Divtt; but, like all the provinces of the Turkifli empire, it is now lefs cultivated than formerly. The chief town is Prufa or Prurfa, the capital of all the Turkifli dominions in Afia, fituate at the foot of mount Olympus, in 29 degrees of eafl longitude, and 40 degrees 30 minutes of north latitude. It is about two miles in length, fur- rounded by an antique wall, well peopled with Turks, Jews, and Grecian and Armenian Chriflians, Here are thirty mofques, and feveral noble caravanferas, with a grand befeftin or exchange. The town is well watered with rivulets defcending from mount Olympus, and almoft every houfe has its fountain. Here is the befl manufa£lure of fllk in the Turkifli dominions, the raw filk being produced in the neighbourhood. They have ah'o a manufafture of tapeflry ; and a great quantity of tvcell^.'-.c wine is made by the Chriftian innabitants. The grand feignior's palace at Prufa is in a ruinous condition ; but there are ftill the tombs of the iirft Turkifli emperors and their fultanas, over which are ere£led little chapels covered with domes. Mount Olympus, in the neighbourhood, is one of the highefl mountains in Afia Minor, barren towards the top, and covered with fnow great part of the year; but the valleys near ii are temperate, and produce great variety of fruit. Within a mile of Prufa are the celebrated baths of Calipfa, whither people refort from the diflance of feveral hundred miles. The apartments arc all paved and lined with marble, and the baths are fupplied with water of difficrent degrees of heat. Of the city of Prufa, was the famous phyfician Afclepiades. Nice, another town of this province, is fituate near the lake of Afchanea, or Afcu, in 30 degrees 5 minutes of eafl longitude, and 41 degrees of north latitude. It was anciently the metropolis of the country; and hither the emperor Condantine fummoned the firfl; general council, to confidcr of the doArine of the Arians. Chalcedon, or rather its ruins, lie nearly oppofite to Conftantinople. It was a flourifliing city in the fourth io8 H M N [Asia. fourth century, at which a fourth general council was held. In ancient times, this place was called the eity tf ibt Hind, from the anfwer of the oracle to the Greeks who built Byzantium, ordering to look for a fettiement oppofite to the country of the blind, mean- ing the Chalcedonians, who coming to the fpot where Byzantium ftands, chofe a worfe fituation on the other fide. ' About eighty miles eaft of Chalcedon, lies Nico- media, anciently a large city, and furnamed the Beau- tiful. It was famous not only under its own kingj, but alfo under the Romans ; and was the royal rcfidence of Dioclefian, and of Conftantine, while Conftanti- nople was building. It is flill a populous town, of conflderable trade. Their chief manufaflurts are filk, cotton, earthen ware, and glafs. CHAP. III. 0/ Syria, end Pahjline, or the Holy Land, SYRIA is fituate between 35 and 41 degrees of eaft longitude, and between 31 and 37 degrees >of iilorth latitude. It is bounded on the north by T/rcomania or Armenia, and Aladulia; on the weft by the Levant Sea, and Cilicia or Caramania; on the fouth by Aiabia; and on the eaft by the river Eu- phrates, which divides it from Diarbeck or Mefopo- 'tamia. Such are the boundaries of modern Syria; but the ancient kingdom of this name, which was governed by Seleucus and his fucceflbrs, extended as far eadward as Perfia. The country is at prefent divided into three govern- ments; namely, that of Aleppo, Tripoli, and Da- mafcus or Scham ; each of which is fubdivided into fangiackfhips or inferior governments, commanded by their refpcdlive bafliaws, under the governor of the province. , . Of thofe feveral governments, the moft northerly is the beglerbegfhip of Aleppo; the capital of which, bearing the fame name, is ficuate in 37 degrees 40 minutes of eaft longitude, and in 36 degrees 30 minutes of north latitude, about ninety miles eaft of the Levant fea: this city ftands on four eminences, in the middle of a fpacious plain. It is of an oval figure, about three miles in circumference, furrounded by a ftone wall, and having a caftle in the center, onthehigheft eminence. The town is better built than moft of thofe in Turky, and contains many mofques, cara- vanferas, bagnios, fountains, and refervoirs of water. It is environed with fine gardens, vineyards, and orchards of apples, oranges, lemons, cherries, and other fruits. Hardly any town in the dominions of the grand feignior carries on a more flourifliing trade. Here moft of the maritime powers in Europe have their confuls and faflots. The articles of commerce are chiefly filks, carpets, mohair yarn, fliagreen, Turky leather, cotton, and other produce of Perfia and Turky. It is computed, that in the city and fuburbs, there are not lefs than two hundred thoufand fouls; of which forty thoufand are Chriftians, who 8 refidc in the latter. The beglerbcj of Aleppo com- mand* all the country between the Levant and the river Euphrates; but the governor of th ' caftle is in- dependent of his jurifdi^lion. The foil in the neighbourhood of the city produces good crops of wheat .ind barley. Olive-trees and capers are very frequent ; but the grafs being burnt up in the fair feafon, there h a deficiency of pafture. The port-town to Aleppo is Scanderoon, fituate on the Levant, in 37 degrees of eaft longitude, and 36 degrees 15 minutes of north latitude. It had anciently the name of A lexatidretta, and is fuppofcd to have been built by Alexander the Great. It is at prefent inhabited chiefly by feamen ; the infalubrity of the air, caufed by the falt-marflies in the neighbour- hood, rendering it a difagreeabie refidence to thofe who are under no neceflity of following an employ- ment in the town. When any veflel arrives at Scanderoon, the faflors immediately fend advice of it to Aleppo, by pigeons, bred at the latter of thofe towns, and which fly home in about live hours, though the diftance between the two places is almoft ninety miles. Thirty miles fouth of Scanderoon, lie the ruins of Antioch, once the capital of Syria. Here the profenbis of the do£)rine of Chrift firft received the name of Chriftians: hence in the middle ages it was dignified with the name of Theopolis, or the city of Gud. Tripoli Afiatic is fituate on the Levant, in 36 degrees 15 minutes eaft longitude, and 34 degrees 30 minutes north latitude, about a hundied miles fouth of Scan- deroon, It was the capital of that part of Syria, called anciently Phcenicia, the people of which excelled fo much in navigation and other arts in the earlieft ages, and fettled colonies in the remotcft parts of Europe and Africa; and is at prefent the chief town of one of the divifions of Syria, and the feat of the viceroy. It is rather a road than a harbour, there being very little fecurity for the (hipping which lies here. There are however fix fquare towers built along the fhore, to protefl the place t.'om pirates; but not provided either with arms or ammunition. It ftands at the foot of mount Libanu«, whence a rivulet runs through the gardens, which abound in orange and mulberry trees, A conflderable filk manu- facture is eftabliih^d in the town. Twenty miles fouth of Tripoli are the ruins of Botrys, faid to have been built by Saturn; and twelve miles farther lie thofe of Byblus, famous for a temple of Apollo, who is fuppofed by fome to have been born at this place. It was formerly a town of great extent and magnificence, but at prefent very incon- fiderable. It is encompafTcd with a dry ditch, a wall, and fquare towers, forty yards diflant from each other. Near this town is the rifer Adonis, called by the Turks, Ibrahim Bafa, famous in the poets for the metamorphofis of a beautiful fliepherd youth, the favourite of Venus, who was killed by a wild boar. Here the women annually lamented his unhappy fate, when in flood-time, the river was tinged with a red earth, a phenomenon which they imagined to be pro- duced by an hxmonhage from his wounds. A little [Asia. Aleppo com- ^ant and the ' cattle is in- city produces ive-trces and ;iiig burnt up pafture. in, fituate on mgitude, and ud;. It had i is fuppofcd eat. It is at infalubrity of le neighbour- :nce to thofc 2 an employ- , the fa£lors > ^y pigeons, lich fly home ! between the ! the ruins of the profeflbis the name of was dignified of God. in 36 degrees s 30 minutes uth of Scan- art of Syria, 'hich excelled 1 the earlieQ >tcfl: parts of ic chief town le feat of the arbour, there ig which lies towers built I pirates; but Tiunition, It , whence « h abound in le filk manu- the ruins of 1; and twelve for a temple have been own of great very incon- itch, a wall, m each other, ailed by the oets for the youth, the a wild boar, inhappy fate, 1 with a red ed to be pro- Is. A littl« c/iM^of/muramL^tM^^ f/f /yy2 ^SJ^MJti^^. o//,! Jat/at^, (t c /{a/ian, (m//a i/unti/t, n>uA' mtve t/u/tt tw/t'// i/a/Zi . row valley, with mount Gerizim on the fouth, and on the north, mount Abel, The town is well peopled, but meanly built; confifting of two ftreets lying parallel to each other ; and is the feat of a Turkilh bafliaw. In the neighbourhood of this place is Jacob's well, ufually vifiied by travellers. It is covered with an old vault, upun the mouth of which is laid a flat ftone. Jerufalem, ftill reckoned the capital of the Holy Land, ftands on a mountain about thirty miles eaft of the Levant, in 36 degrees of eaft longitude, and 32 degrees of north latitude. Its fituatiun is altered from what it was at the crucifixion of our Saviour: for mount Calvary then lay without the walls, and mount Sion within, near the center; but the latter is now excluded, and the former become the mod central part of the city. At prefent this capital is not more than three miles in circumference, the buildings mean, and thinly inhabited ; the chief em- ployment of thofe who refide in it, being to accom- modate the pilgrims who refort hither with lodging and provifions. The grandeft buIKIing is the church of the fcpulchre, in which almoft every Chriftian nation has a chapel. This ftru£iure is about a hundred paces in length and fixty in breadth. It is lighted by an open dome or cupola on the middle of the roof, dirciSly under which is the grand fepulchre. There are alfo in this church twelve or thirteen places, con- fecrated on account of fome particular aifiions per- formed in them, relative to the death and refurreAion of Chrift; the former of which events is hsre annually £ e folema >A no H E M D E R N [Asia. I folemnizcd rm Good Friday, by the friars, with great fuperftition and ceremony, A bafliaw and a good garrifon is kept there by the Turlcs, to protect the pilgrims from the Arabs, who poflt-fs the adjacent country. The walls and fortifications are very an- tique, having old fquare towers inllead of baftions ; but as the Arabs arc deilitutc of artillery, the defence proves fufficicnt. When the pilgrims arrive near the pates of Jerufa- lera, the fathers of the Latin convent tend their drug- german or interpreter, with fome others,, to meet them, and bring them to their cloifter, where they are hofpitably entertained, their feet waflied, and an aparC;iient allotted for thvir ufe. A torch it then given to each pilgrim, and they go in procefllon round the cloifter, finging Te Dtum for their fafe arrival at the holy city. Without the wall are fome apartments hewn out of the folid rock, and called the fcpulchres of the kings; but on what account they have received this name, it is difficult to determine; no kings, either of IfracI or Judah, being mentioned in Scripture as interred here. They appear, however, to have been receptacles for iiie dead, formed at vail expence, and with infinite labour. They are approached on the eaft fide, through an entrance, which leads into an open court about forty paces fquare. On the fouth fide of the court is a portico, nine paces long, and four broad, with a !c!nd of architrave, and crnamnited with fcuiptures of fruits and flowers, flill difcernible, though injured by the ravages of years. At the end of the portico on the left hand, is the defcent into the fepulchres, which confift of feven apartDients, one within another, all cut out of the folid rock ; each about eight yards fquare, except the two innermoft, which are deeper, by tlic additional defcent of fix or feven fteps. In all the fix interior apartments, were coffins of (lone, placed in niches in the fides. They had been at firfl carved with foliage, and covei<.u with handfome lids; but mod of them are now defaced »nd broken. There has been in each room a channel, for the purpofe of carrying off the water, which diftilled from the cieling by the exhalation of the vapours. To the fubterraneous pafTages one door only remains, which is formed in the manner of wainfcot, of one ftone, fitted with hinges of the fame material. Between thofe fepulchres and the city, a dungeon is pointed out, in which the prophet Jeremiah is faid to have been imprifoncd. Ci offing the valley of Jehofaphat, and part of mount Olivet, we arrive in half an hour at Bethany; the firft houfe in which village is fuppofed to have be- longed to Lazarus; and near it is fhcwn the fcpulchre, where he is faid to have been raifed from the dead. It is a fmall apartment, entered through one of larger dimenfions, the defcent to the latter of which is by twenty-five fteps. The mountain, in the defart, on which bur Saviour is faid to have been tempted, is approached by an intricate road, variegated, on each fide, with hills and dales, and though at prefent extremely barren, has the appearance of being formerly cultivated. The whole profpea ii difmal, prefcnting nothing but rocky mountains and frightful chafms, »hat appear to have been the eft'eiA of fome horrid convulfion of nature. Turning into the plain of Jericho, ve foon arrive at the fountain of Elifha, which that prophet purged of its brackifhnefs, at the requefl of the neighbouring inhabitants. The ■•'•ter falls into a large bafon, whence it is difFufed over the fields, which it endows with great fertility. The village of Jericho it at prefent a wretched habitation of Arabs. On the way towards Jordan, we paf.. over a plain, producing nothing but famphireand other marine plants. In many places that appear to have been once covered with water, there remain ftrong incruflations of fair, with which the foil fcemed to be every where impreg. nated. The length of the Dead Sea, which may be more properly called a lake, is twenty four leagues, and the breadth fix or feven. To the eaft and wefl it is bounded by mountains of a flupendous height, covered with a fulpuhrious kind of flone. The tradition of birds drop- ping down dead in flying over this expanfe of water, is entirely groundlefs J and from oyfler and other ihells on the fhure, there is reafon to think that it produces fome fifli. When the waters arc low, it is faid that a few relics may be difcovered of thofe cities, which were deftroyed by fire from heaven. »» Palling the famous valley, where an angel dcrtroyed in one night the bcft part of the army of Sennacherib, we come to a village in which it is faid that no Turk, can furvive above two years. Whether the report be true or falfe, no Turk choofes to bring it to theteft of experiment, and therefore the Chriflians enjoy the place entirely to themfelves. Farther on lies a village called St. Philip, where af- cending a fleep hill, we arrive at the wildernefs of St. Joh.i, which, though rocky and mountainous, is well cultivated, and produces plenty of corn, grapes, and olives. Aftet an hour's travelling, we reach the cave and fountain, where it is faid that John the Baptifl praflifed the aufterities related of him. Near the cave are fome old locuft-trees, much revered by the pilgrims. About fix miles fouth of Jerufalem is fituate Beth* lehcm, once an elegant city, but now a poor village. Hither the Chriftian pilgrims much refort, as the place of our Saviour's nativity. Near this place re- main the pools and fountains, which flood in the gar- dens of Solomon, that are faid to have been his delight, Damafcus or Scham, the capital of the fouth divifion of Syria, is fituate in 37 degrees ao minutes of eafl longitude, and in 33 degrees 15 minutes of north lati- tude. It flands in a fruitful extenfive plain, encom- paflTed with gardens, well watered, which flretch feveral miles, and furroundcd by mountains at a diflance. The town is about two miles in le jth, and the flrcets narrow. The houfes are built of fun- burnt brick, on which account, when there is the leaft rain, the flreets are covered with deep mud. The gates and doors, however, are beautifully inlaid with marble; the Palmyka.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. lit the buildingJ exhibiting to the view a ftrilcing con- tr»ft of grandeur and mcinncfs united. Each houfc is generally built in the form of a fquarc court} in the middle of which are artificial fountains, decorated with marble bafons. The cielings and pannels of the apartments, after the Turkifli manner, are richly painted and gilded. There are in the town a great number of magnificent mofijues or temples, one of which had formerly been a Chriftian church, dedicated to St. John the Baptift. It is fupported by lofty pillars of granite marble, and encompafled by piazzas or cloifters. The town has a briflc trade and feveral valuable manu- fadurcs, particularly the branching fattins, ufually called damaflcs. Their fword-blades, and all forts of cutlery-ware, are likewife in great reputation, the water of the place being very proper for tempering iron and ftecl. Nor is their traffic lefs confiderable in raw, as well as wrought fillcs, wine, prunes, with other dried fruits, and foap. Near the city is a beau- tiful meadow, called the Ager Damafcenus, of the earth of which they have a tradition that Adam was made. The Turks of Damafcus treat the Chriflians with great contempt, and amongft other marks of indignity, will not .'ufTer them to ride on horfeback, but upon •fles. Thofe animals however are much more nimble than with us. A fellow runs after them, who pricks the afs with a goad, fo that the traveller requires neither whip nor fpur. Jaffa, or Joppa, is fituate on an eminence clofe to the Levant, about thirty miles weft of Jerufalem. It was the only port belonging to Paleftine, but the harbour is fo choaked up at prefent, that no fhip of any great burden can enter it; neither is it populous or well built. Gaza is the moft foutherly town in Paleftine, fituate near the Levant, in 35 degrees of eaft longitude, and 31 degrees 20 minutes of north latitude. It was formerly a very ftrong place, and the pofleifion of it much difputcd by the Egyptians and Syrians j but as both thofe kingdoms are now under the dominion of the Turks, the fortifications, as well as the town, are in a ruinous condition. C H A P. IV. Of Palmyra. THE fituation of this celebrated city is not precifely determined by geographers, fome placing it in Syria, and others in Arabiaj but the moft general opinion is, that it was comprehended in the former. It lies in 39 degrees of eaft longitude, and 33 of north latitude, two hundred miles fouth-eaftof Aleppo Its territory is enclofed for a large extent on every fide by fands, but within this circuk: boundary it was extremely fertile in ancient times, and celebrated for the purity of its waters. The origin of the city of Palmyra has been no lefs difputed than its fttuation. In the Arabic tranflation of the Chronicles, it is mentioned as fubfifting before the days of Solomon } but John of Antioch, fur- n^med Malala, informs us that it was built by that monarch, on the very fpot where his father flew the Philiftine chief, and in honour of that memorable aflion, Abul Farai ventures even to fix the year of itt foundation. But leaving thofe and other accounts of the earlier ftate of Palmyra as fabulous, we fliall proceed to what hat been delivered concerning it upon more refpei^ablo authority. We find in the ninth chapter of the firft book of Kings, and the eighth of the fecond of Chronicles, that Sulomon ercdled a city in the wildernefs, and called it Tadmor. According to Jofephus, the Greeks and Romans afterwards diO'nguifhed the place by the name of Palmyra, whilft the Syrians continued to give it the former appellation. This is confirmed by St. Jerom; and the country Arabs, even at this time, call it by the ancient name. But though Palmyra may have been originally founded by Solomon, it is probable that the ruins now exifting are thofe of edi- fices which have been built at a later pciiod. We are told by John of Antioch, that Nebuchadnezzar deftroycd this city, in his march to the fiegc of Jeru- falem. Befides, it is hardly to be imagined, that fuch elegant ftrudlures could be prior to the footing of the Greeks in Syria ; and the improbability of fuch a fa£t being admitted, we fliall not be furprifed that Xenophon has taken no notice of it in his retreat of Cyrus the younger, though he is very exadl in de- fcribing the defart; or that it is not mentioned in the account of the march of Alexander to the Euphrates. It is however extraordinary, that no mention is made of fo fplendid a city, even when Pompey reduced Syria to a Roman province, and when a tafle for the polite arts began to be fo prevalent, that architedture, painting, and fculpture, were objcils not unworthy the attention of a Roman general. The name of Palmyra is not admitted to a place in hiftory, till Appian, in the fifth book of his civil wars, fpeaks of Mark Antony as attempting to plunder it; though it appears, that at this time, the riches and trade of the Palmyrcnes muft have been of fome Handing, Forty years afterwards, as we find by their infcrlptions, they ran into expences and luxuries which could not be fupported without confiderable fources of wealth. The only ancient account of this place extant is tranfmitted by Pliny, who, though he has collected the moft ftriking circumftances concerning it, yet omits to mentio.. the buildings. " The city of Pal- myra, fa^s he, is nobly Atuated, the foil is rich, and it is pleafantly watered. It is on all fides furrounded by a vaft fandy defart, which totally feparates it from the reft of the world, and has prefcrved its inde- pendence between the two great empires of Rome and Parthia ; their firft care, when at war, being to engage it in their intereft. It is diftant from the Parthian Seleucia on the Tigris three hundred and thirty-fcven miles ; from the higheft part of the Mediterranean two hundred and three; and a hundred and fevcnty- *ix from Damafcus." All thofe circumftances, Mr. Wood obferves, ftrongly charaflerize Palmyra, its fituation being very fine, •'iving a ridge of hills to the weft, and to the eaft an cxtenfive plain. On the hills formerly ftood many frpulchral monuments, fome 112 THE MODERN [Asia. fome of which are yet to be fecn, infpiring the beholder with awe and veneration. The foil about the town is dill rich, and might be cultivated with little pains i but the dreams which watered it arc now loll in the fand, by not lining with (lone, as formerly, the channel through which it is conveyed. Though the palm-tree, which will flourifh in tne drjefl foil, once peihaps covered thofe hills and great part of the dvfart, none of them are now to be found here, nor more than one fig-tree; though the merchants who travelled hither in 1691, from Aleppo, faw fcveral { and Albufedah mentions both the palm and fig as common at Palmyra. Mr. Wood is of opinion, that among the remains of Palmyra, the ruins of two different periods of an- tiquity may be eafily difcerned; the older owing itt diflblution to time, and the other bearing marks of violence. The infcriptions here, for the mod part cither honorary or fepulchral, are badly executed ; the names are generally in Palmyrene chara£l;rs, and the latell have Roman prxnomina. From them it is evident that one of the buildings was (landing before the birth of Chridj nor any of them fo modern as the dedru£lion of the city by Aurelian, except one in Latin, which mentions Dioclefian. The information refpeAing the hidory of this place, which can be obtained from the infcriptions, cameos, intaglios, or medals found here, is very trifling. Of the latter have been found only a few Roman, in brafs, of the lower empire. The mod perfeifl piece of antiquity is a maufoleum. now almofl one thoufand eight hundred years old; the floors and dairs of which are dill entire, though the building conflds of five dories. An infcription upon it, yet legible, in> forms us, that it was built by Jamblicus, fon of Mocimus, as a burial-place for himfelf and his family, in the year 314. This date being relative to the aera of Stlcucus, anfwers to the third year of the Chriftan epoch. The walls which furround this city, were flanked with fquare to- ' ; in many parts, particularly on the fouth-er nothing of them exids ; and, from the bed calculation that Mr. Wood could make, he imagines their circuit has not been lefs than three Englifh miles. But as Palmyra, in its flourifhing date, mud have been of greater extent, he thinks it not improbitble that the old city covered a neighbour- ing piece of ground, ten miles in circumference; in every fpot of which, the Arabs fay, that ruins are turned up in digging. For this reafon, he f ppofes that the walls inclofe only that part of Palmy.' vhich was occupied with public buildings ; and were fortified, if not credlcd, by Judinian, who judged this a proper place to iiw.-n the furious progrefs of the Saracens. By clofely infpcdling this wall, it appears that two or three of the flanking towers on the north-ead were formerly fepulchral monuments; which affords fome proof that the walls were ercfled poderior to the monu- ments, and the works of a Chriftian xra ; for the pagan •■eligion would have condemned the metamorphofls as pwfaiic, fiefides the Greeks and Romans always buried without the walls of their cities; and the fame cudom was religioufly obfcrved over all the Eaft. On the top of one of the highcd rocky hills, north- ead of the ruins of Palmyra, is an old cadle, the afcent to which is deep and rugged. It is a mean dr<.i£lure, not fo old as the time of Judinian, and unworthy of even the Mamalukes. Round it is cut a ditch, which cannot be pafled without difficulty, the draw-bridge being broken down. In the rock is a deep hole, intended perhaps for a well, but now dry. The remains of one building at Palmyra are ex- tremely magnificent; and this Mr. Wood fuppofes to have been the temple of the Sun, which being much, damaged by the Roman Toldiers, when Aurelian took the city, that emperor ordered, for the expencc of re- pairing it, three hundred pounds weight of .J from the treafures of Zenobia} with one thr and eight hundred pounds weight of filver, levied upon the people, befides the jewels of the crown. The foli- dity and height of the walls of its court tempted the Turks to convert it into a place of drcngth ; and therefore on the north-ead, and fouth, they ftopped up the windows, dug a ditch to the wed, and demo- lifhed the portico of the grand entrance; building in its place a fquare tower to flank that fide. The court is paved with broad dones, but fo covered with rubbifh as to be perceptible only in a few places. Neither are any dairs to be fecn, by which it could communicate with any other part of the building. In the defart, three or four miles fouth-ead of the ruins of Palmyra, lies the valley of fait, whence Damafcus and the neighbouring towns are fupplied with that commodity. This is fuppofed to be the place in which David fmote the Syrians, The ground, to a confiderable depth, is impregnated with fait, which they obtain by forming trenches, where the rain-water lodging, diflblves the faline particles which tranfude from the earth. The mod remarkable figure which Palmyra makei in hidory, was in the reign of Gallienus, when the glory of the Roman arms was obfcured in the Ead, under the indolent adminidration of that prince. At this junflure Odenathus, a native of Palmyra, col- lecting the remains ef the vanquiihed Romans in Syria, led them againd Sapor king of Perfia, whom he routed, and advanced with his vi£lorious army as far as Ctefi- phon, the capital of the empire. On his return from this expedition, in which he not only acquired vaft riches, but renown and popularity, he was unani-- moufly declared Augudus, and copartner of the empire with Gallienus. After a feries of warlike atchieve- ments, however, he was treacheroufly flain, as is fuppofed, by his kinfman Majonius. Of his family, or the more early part of his life, hidory fupplics us with no particulars; but is ag:' i that he was a man of great abilities and excellent qualiflcations. Liba- nius mentions an oration written in his praife by Longinus, which is lod; and Pullio affirms, that had he not engaged in the Roman intered, it mud at that time have been entirely ruined in the Had, Of his extra- [Asia. I^i and the fver all the lill), north* caftle, the ■ 9 a meaa lOinian, and fid it is cut Jt difficulty, the rock ii |l) but novr |yra are ex- ruppofet to being much |urelian took pen re of re- f J from and eight ■ns in Syria, n he routed, ■ar as Ctefi- return from quired vaft was unani-' r the empire e atchieve- lain, as is his family, fupplies us was a man ns. Liba- praife by s, that had luft at that . Of his extra- No 10. F f A F R I C A. H4 II C MODERN [Africa, R A. OUITTING the continent of Afia, we arrive in that of Africa, another of the (;rcat divifions into which the terraqueous globe is dilfinguinied, and which may naturally be contidcred as the fccoiul in the Older of dcfcription, not only on account of its pioximity to the former, but of the early period when it appears to have received its full inhabitants. This pcninfular quarter of the world is bounded on the north by the Mediterranean Sea, which feparates it from Europe i on the cart by the Ilthmus of Suez, the Red Sea, and the Indian Ocean ; by the great Southern Ocean on the fouthj and by the All.intic Ocean on the weft. It is fituatc between 50 dc^-recs of eaft, and 18 degrees of weft longitude, and between 35 degrees of fouth, and yj degrcca of north latitude; extendinnr upward^) of four thoufand three hundred miles in length, and four thoufand in breadth. Africa is ufually diftiiiguifhed into nine divifions, viz. Egypt j AbylTi'iia, comprehending Nubia and the coall of Abcz, with Anian, on the north-caft; Zangucbar, coiiiprchending Sof.da and Terra dc Natal on the fouth-caftj Calfraria, or the country of the Hottentots, on the fouth; Monomotapa and .Monomu^i, inland cnuntiies, furrounded by Zanguebar, Caffrari.i, and Matamcn ; Bengucla, Angola, Congo, and Mcniii, on the louth-wi'(t ; (juiiica, PropcrNcgro-laiid, Zaara, and Hilcdiilgcrid on the weft j Morocco, Algiers, Tunis, Tripoli, and Barca, ufually ftylcd the cojft of U:ir- bary i the remaining divifion confifts of the iHands of Madagafcar, Balmandel, &c. £ T. CHAP. I. Of the fituaUan— 'river Nile — produce— ^ptrfons of the E^\ptiani—dreji—Jalututions— method of travelling —houfes. T^ GYPT, the north-caft divifion of Africa, is •*— ' iKiunJed on the north by the Mediterranean; on the call by the Red Sea, and the ifthmus of Suez; on the fouth by Abyflinia; and on the weft by the Dcfarts of Barca, and the ancient Lybia. It is lituate between 30 and 36 degrees of eaft longitude, and between 21 and 31 degrees of north latitude; being about fix hundred miles long, and a hundred and t'fty brond. This country was thrown by the ancients into three grand divifions, namely, that of the Upper, the Middle, and the Lower Egypt; or the Thebais, Heptanomis, and Delta. At prefcnt, it is divided into the Higher and Lower, confidcrcd wich refpecfl to the courfc of the Nile. This celebrated river is one of the moft remark.ible ol'jcdts in Egypt, and to account for iu fource, and priodicil overflowing, was a problem which baffled the iifmod invcftigation of the ancients. It is now, liDwucr, found to iflue from the mountains in Abyflinia, in 17. digiccs of north latitude. It runs generally from foiiiii to north, through Abyflinia into Egypt, and then continues its courfe in one ftrcam, till it comes below Cairo, to the Delta, where it divides; one branch difcharging itlelf into the Mediterranean at Damietta, and the other at Rofettn, a hundred miles farther weft. Ancient writers have defcribed the upper part of this river, as interfered by cataraf^s of a ftupendous height; but upon more accurate enquiry, thofe accounts appear to have been greatly exaggerated. The channel is crofted in three places by rocks of granite^ over which the Nile falling, forms three cataracts. The hrft is about three foot deep ; the fccond a little lower, is about feven or eight foot ; and the third is fuppofcd to be only a few foot more. Such are the catarafts, formerly called catadupcs, which have been reprefented as making fo hideous a noifr, that thofe who inhabited in the neighbour- hood were rendered deaf by the found. The Nile generally begins to overflow in May or June, and the inundation increafes for four or five months, during which time the waters are turbid, and of a colour either green or inclining to red , There are great rejoicings every year when the river rifei to a certain licight, their future harvell depending upoti it. The juft height of the inundation, according to Pliny, is fixtecn cubits; when it rifes to twelve or thirteen, a famine is expeflcd; and when on the conir.iiy it exceeds (ixteen, the inundation is confidcrcd as d.ingcrous. To afcertain the proper height of this annual EOVPT.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. "5 iinnual Jtliigc, oppofitc to Old Cairo, ftanJi a pillar I they lived upon the fruit of ihil tree, which had (o divided into picks a nicafurc about the length of two foot. Here offircrs appointed for the purpofe coii- n.iiitly attend, when the waters have rifcn to a con- hdir.ihlc height, wlio give notice two or three times in the day, of the vxiwi degree of inundation to the cryert, by whom it i) immcdiuttly publifhed in their rtfpeiitivc divifions. When the river is fuppolird to be high enough, the bank' arc cut, to let the water imo the canals, from which it may be diftributed oc- cafionally to the fields and gardens. This expedient hoi^'ever is prae'lil'ed only in the upper part of the country, it being unneccfl'ary in the IJelta, or Lower I'^gypt, which on account of its level fituation is fufllciently overflowed. The raufc of this annual inundation of the Nile fecms to be afciibL-d with juHicc to the rains which fall periodically in the country whence it derives its foii-ee. To this end the north winds may alfo con- tribute, which beginning to blow towards the clofc of Mav, drive the clouds formed by the vapours of the Mediterranean, fouthward, as far as the mountains of I'.thiopia i uhrrc their courfc being ftoppcd, they condenfc, and f.ill down in violent rains. The fame wind likcwife contributes 'o raife the waters of the Nile, by driving forward the fca, which meeting with the ritti, already fwollen by the new fallen rains, oppotes its progrefs, and thus the country is foon ovsrfiown. In October, when the Nile ufually ccafes {o rife, the water Magnates in the canals, and has a very noifomc ftncll, occafioncd by the filth thrown into it, as well as by the ftagnation. With the vapours hence arifing, even the money and plate is tarnifhcd. To the llinic which remains after the inundation, rendered putrid by the great heat of the climate, may be imputed not only the vaA number of infcfls, which fwatm near the channel of the Nile, but likcwife, in part at lead, the difcafes incidental to th^ inhabitants of Egypt. Thofe inconveniences, however, arc coni- pcnfatcd by the prodigious fertility communicated to the lands, with little labour; and by the people being thus fumifhcd with water, which they prefcrve in ciflcrns, and which, without this providential expe- dient of natiin, ihey could not procure in a coiintry almoft totally dcAitute of foun ..ins, and hardly ever vifitcd with rain. Amongft the c'ifFerent kinds of produce, for which Egypt was anci;ntly celebrated, one was the paper, made of the bark of the papyrus; of which they like- wife made fails, tackling, cioaths, coverlids, and other furniture. The country was no lefs remarkable for the excellence of its flax, and the peculiar dexterity with which it was manufaflured. The threads were fpun alnioft too fine for the obfcrvation of the fliarpeft eye. Another kind of flax here produced, was the byflus, which often received a purple dye, and the cloth made of it was held in the highcft cficem. 'I'hc lotus, or lote-tree, was alfo in great recjueft, the berries of which were fometimes made into bread. There was another lotus in Africa, which gave its name to the Lotophagi, or Lotus £atcr«, bccaufe delicious a tafte, if Homer may b? crcdit..'d, at to make the eaters of it forget all the fwicta u( their native country. I'he tgyptian pulli and fruifi weru likewil'c citcemed excellent ; and both the defli and fi(h of the country, inferior to none of their kind. Hut the unrivalled wealth oi Lgypt arofe Ironi its corn, which, even in an almofl univerCil famine, en- abled it to fupport the neighbouring nations. In later ages, it was the rcfourcc and certain granary of Rome and Condantinoplc. Egypt produces horfcs, -amcls, and fuch quadru^ peds as arc common in the fouthern climates. Amongft the reptiles of this country, the viper is much cneemed in phyfic. They are yellowifh, of the colour of the fand in which they live, and arc of two kinds. One uf thofe is the common fpecies, but the other has horns like a fnail, aud of a cartilaginous fubilance. l'h« common lizard ii here alfo yellow. About old walls is found a very ugly one, (baped like a crocodile. The worrai is of the lizard kind, four foot long, eight inches broad, with a forked tongue, which it puts out like a ferpcnt, and no teeth ; living on flies and fmall lizards. It is a harmlefs animal, and is found only in the hottcil fcafons, in grottos and caverns in the mountains, on the weft fide of the Nile, where it flccps during winter. The oftrich is common on the mountains foulh- weft of Alexandria; and the fat of it is fold very dear by the Arabs, whoufeitas a remedy in palfics, rheu- matifms, and many other difordcrs. Here is a kind of domcflic large brown hawk, with a fine eye, which moflly frequents the tops of houfes, where pigeons and hawks may frequently be feen (landing clofe to each other, A beautiful bird is alfo common, called balfery, of the fpecies of the ibis, which was worfhipcd by the ancient Egyp- tians. The male has a black beak and legs, and black feathers on the wings, with a large crooked bill. The legs, bill, and eyes of the female are of a fine red ; and in the wings and tail are intermixed fome red feathers, which, when expanded, are exceeding beautift^l. The bats are remarkably large; from the tip of one wing to that of the other, many of them meafuring two foot. The country abounds in all forts of fowls, both wild and domeftic, except pheafants ; and the method of hatching eggs, is by placing them not under a hen, but in an oven, where they are cxpofed to a proper degree of warmth, during the ufual term of incu- bation. The moft remarkable of the animals is the croco- dile, which is a native of the Nile. This voracious creature has two long teeth in its lower jaw, which arc received into the fame number of holes in the upper. It is extremely quick- fighted, objcfls from behind being conveyed to its eyes, by means of a channel which communicates with the back of the head. The length of this animal is fometimes fo enormous as to mcafure fifty foot. When on land, he is always fetn very near the water, with his head dircflcd ii6 H E MOD R N [ArRiiA. l\ towuriltiC) into which, upon being dinurbeJ, he de- | extraordinary rcfpeif>, I'hcy alwayn wiHi peace (o liberutcly rnteri. The rggi of thii tnlmal rercmble each others a compliment which thry never pay to thole ul' a goofo, It burici ihcm with great care in Chriftiam. the Cmil, at the depth ol' a foot beyonJ the reach ' The r.ilutation of the Arabi ii by ikakiii; h.indj nnd of the Nile'i oveillowing) and a> loon as the young < bowing the hcail, Amnugl> the Coptii, a Tun duie are hatched, they lmmcJi.itrly run intu the water. not fit down in the prefcnce of hii father, efpeeiully It ii fuppnfed that thu iiocodilei are deftruycd by I in public company, without being fcvriMl tiitici >,'c> the fpccici of creature, named Pharaoh's rati, which (ircd ; and in no place of the wirlJ ilo people p»y greater regard to the motion! of their (upcnors. The prefent Kgyptlani are a nutliful p^'opie, delight* in^ much in fitting Hill, and atlciuling to the iclKMrlal of lluriei ) a dilpofition which pcilMps thty owe to the enervating warmth of the clim:ite. They are likewifc (o (lovcnly, that after wafhing their liaiuli, they wipe them with the flcevcs of their (hirts. ii larger than a llork, and often (hewn in Kurope for the ichneumon : but that the Utter could creep into the mouth of the crocodile, and by eating a palTage through its bowels, deftroy it, there is no probability, ai it muft be (liRcd in the attempt. The inhabitants of Kgypt arc diilinguifhed into three clafl'cs, namely, the Coptis, who are natives of the country and Chriflians, the I'urks, and the Arabs. Malice, envy, and ignorance, are predominant lincj- In general, they arc but an ill looking people, and ' ments in their charadcr, which is alfu lliongly marked though many of them are fair when young, yet the with cunning, fulfliood, and jcaloufy. 'J'hcy arc ex- heat of the fun foon makes them of a fwatthy com- ' tremely credulous with refpei^k lu taJil'inan:>, clurms, plexion. and every fpecies of mngic, Should you praife any of The mod flmplc drefs of the men in Egypt pro- I their children, without blefling it, they never fail tu bably refcmbles the primitive manner of cloathing, ' fufpeft that you mean it no good, and immcdlaicly It confifts only of a long fliirt, with wide flecvcs, ufe fome fuperflitious ceremonies to prevent the etfei^ tied round the middle. The common people wear over this a brown woollen (hirtj but thofe of better condition, a long cloth coat, covered with a blue fhirt hanging down to the middle of the leg. But on feftivals, and all extraordinary occafions, the upper fhirt is white. They wear about their necks a blue cloth, with which they defend their heads from the fcverity of the weather. It is alfo a general cuftom among the Arabian and Mahometan inhabitants of the country, to wear a large blanket, either white or brown, in winter, and in fummer a blue and white cotton flicct thrown over the left (houlder, and brought round under the right arm, which is thus left bare, and free for aiHion. When it is hot, and they are on horfeback, they let this covering fall behind on the faddle. The drefs of the women is not much unlike that of the men, only moft of their under garments are of fiik. All but the outer vefl are fliorter than thofe worn by the other fex. Their fleeves hang down to a great length, and a fort of gauze fhirt under all tr.iils the ground. Their heads are drefTed with an embroidered handkerchief, and the hair pUited round under a white woollen (kuU-cap. The meaner fort of women wear a large linen or cotton blue garment, like a furplice; and before their faces hangs a fort of bib, which is joined to the hcad-drefs, a fpace being left between for their eyes. Others who wear this garment of filk, have a large black veil that comes all over them, fometimes made of gauze. It being reckoned a great indecency for a woman to (hew the whole face, they generally cover their mouth and one eye. The common women, efpecially the blacks, wear rings in their nofcs, to which they hang glafs beids. The Mahometans falute each other by inclining the head, extending the hand, and bringing it back to their brtafts ; or by ki/fing the hand, and putting it to the head, of which the latter mode is a mark of 6 of the evil eye j one of which is throwing fait into the fire. On a journey, the Egyptians generally fct out early in the morning, walk their horfes gently, and often flop to rcfrcfh undir a (hade. If thty do not travel in any great (late, they carry a leathern bottle of water tied to the faddle, and this they drink when thirfty. A perfon of condition has an attending camel laden with water. At night they have large lanthorns, the bottom and top of which are of copper, tinnej over, and the fides of linen, flrctchcd upon wires, carried before them. They feldom make 'jfe of tents, but lie in the open air. Men of quality ride on a faddled cair.eli and their attendants on camels loaded with carputs, beds, and other necefTaries, if their journey be long. They commonly carry in their hands a double crook, to direft the beaft by touching his head, and to recover their bridle, in cafe it (hould happen to drop. Some women of condition travel in litters, carried by camels; the labour of the camel that goes behind being very great, as his head lies under the vehicle. Others go in a fmaller fort of litter, on the back of a camel. Another method of conveyance is by means of a round bafkct with a cover, flung on each fide of a camel. This contains not only the palTengcr, but his necefTaries; and to dirciSt the canel, a perfon fits be- fore the bafkets. The beft houfes in Egypt, efpecially at Cairo, are built upon the fame plan, which is ufually that of a quadrangular ftru£lure, including an area of the like form. The faloon is built in the (hapc of a Greek crofs, with a cupola in the middle. It is wainfcottcd ten foot high, and the paiiials fliinc with mother of pearl, blue fmalt, fine marble, and elegant pieces of Mofaic workmanfhip. Above the wainfcotting are in- fcriptions in Arabic, all round the apartment, reach- ing to the height of two foot, an J the whole is crowned with uichcs of Mofaic and mother of pearl. The room Alixandrm.&c] general TRAVELLER. 117 room it furrounJcd with a fophi, ruriiiflied with rich velvet cuftiiont, and the floor it covered with fine ctrpeti. The great men in genrral have a filotin for com- mon uff, and another tor ftuici and a; ihcy hate four wivei, c.ich of tliufe lias a dift'eien. 'aloon, with ■partmenti contiguoui, th.it have no communication with the reft of the houfc, except the common entrance for fervanti, which iu kept locitedi and of the private entrance the mafter alone hji the key. In the apart- ment* of the v'ivc), ihcy have fuch machines ai are ufed in nunneries, which receive any thing the wo- men want to give in or our, without being fcen by ihofe with whom tlicy communicate. In the Delta, or Lower Egypt, the houfei and villagei are all fituated upon cminencci, natural or artificial, to defend them from the inundations of the Nile, during which time the country appears like an immenfe lake, interfpcrfcd with numberlcfs illands. CHAP. 11. Of Jli)(tnJiia—-Ciiht-—pyramidi ^citlifii^ruins-^ labyrint/j—Laii Marit, ONE of the principal cities of Egypt is Alexan- dria, fituatc In 31 degrees of call longitude, and 30 degrees ol lurth latitude, fourteen miles weft of the moft weftcily branch of the Nile, The ancient city was founded by Alexander the Great, from whom it derived its name, and was reckoned one of the moft confiderable in Africa ) but it has been fo fre- quently cxpofed to the ravages of invaders, that were it not for its ports, and other monuments of antiquity, we (hould hardly be able to afcertain even the place on which it ftood. The fca has encroached upon it in many parts, and withdrawn itfelf in others. Upon a little idand, which once was contiguous to the port, flood the famous light-houfe, called Pharos. When the city was taken by the Saracens, it con- tained, if we may credit the Arabian writers, four thoufand palaces, four hundred fpacious fquares, and in it were no Icfs than forty thoufand tributary Jews, Before the difcovery of the palTage to the Eaft Indies, by the Cape of Good Hope, it was undoubtedly a place of prodigious trade. At prcfent however the old city is entirely ruined, and the materials carried away to build the new one, I'he port of Alexandria, now called the Old and the New, were heretofore named the ports of Africa and Afia. The former is appropriated to the Turks, but the latter is free to all the nations of Europe, That which is ufcd by the Turks is cleaner and deeper than the other, where they are obliged to ufe the ex- pedient of fixing empty calks along the cables, to prevent their being damaged by the continual friflion of a ftony bottom. The entrance of the new port is defended by two caftles of a contemptible Turkifh ftru(Sure, that have nothing remarkable but their having fucceeded to the fituation of edifices that will for ever be celebrated in hiftory. No, 10. The moft confpicuoui remains of Alexandria, are Pompcy's Pillar, and the Ciftcrns, The i^tter were built under the houfei, fupportcd by two or ihrto arches, raifed on columns, to receive the water of th« Nile, as they do at this day. The pillar commonly diftinguifhed by the name of Ponipey, (lands on a linall eminence, about a quarter of a mile from the wclii, and is furrounded by fomc magnificent ruins, faid to be the remains of a palace of Julius Ccfari in the center of the area of which this pillar is fuppofed to have been ere£led. It is of red granite. The capitals are of the Corinthian order, and the leaves, which "re plain, not indented, feem to hare been done either for bay or laurel. Thers are on it fome marks of a Grtik infcription, not legible. The height of the pillar, including tho capital, pedeftal, &c. is a hundred and fourteen foot| but exclufive of thofe parts, it is eighty-eight foot nine inches high, and nine foot in diameter. Here is likewife an ancient obelilk, which bears tha name of Cleopatra, fituated almoft mid-way between the city and the little pharillo in the port. Its bafis, of which a part is funk, rifes twenty foot higher than the level of the fea, This obelific conftfts of only one piece of granite marble. There are but two of its faces well preferved. On the two others, tho hieroglyphics arc hardly perceptible. This has pro- bably belonged to the maufoleum of Cleopatra, of which two fquare marble fragments, covered with hieroglyphics, may be feen in the Dritifli Mufeum, Between this obelifk and the port, runs a thicle wall, flanked on each fide of the former by a tower. The interior fide of the wall is ten foot diftant from the obelifk, the exterior but four or five from the fea. The front of it, far into the port, is filled with a great number of wrecks of columns, frizes, and other piecea of archite£lure, that mud have been part of foma magnificent edifice. The huge towers, of which there are feveral, connected by a wall, feem to have formed the circumference of ancient Alexandria, They are not all of equal di- menfions, nor of the fame figure. Some are round, others fquare, and many are of an eliptic form. They alfo differ in their interior parts. Some of them have a double wall, and at the entrance a winding ftaircafc, which mounts to the top of the building. I'he others are acceffible only through a hole at the top, when mounted by r leans of a ladder. In general, the entrance of thofe towers is very narrow. Their different ftories are fo many vaults, fupportcd in fome by one column, and in others by feveral. The cm> brafures are likewife narrow, and widen inwards, not unlike thofe of many old caftles in England, The archite£lure of thofe towers, which are built of free ftone, is very clumfy on the loweft part. Around, at certain intervals, are feen columns of dif- ferent forts of marble, fo placed, as at a diftance to appear like cannon pointed through the embrafure. The walls which unite the towers, and jointly with them form the circumference of the city, are not throughout of the fame breadth or height, nor of a fimilar ftruflurej fome parts of them being twenty G S foot ''^W .THE MODERN [Africa. foot thick, while'others either exceed, orfaL' I'hort of there dimenfions. Their height is from thirty to forty foot •, and within fide of them is an alley, in the fame tafte at that in Aurelian's palace at Rome. The towers, as well as the walls are much damaged, and in fome places totally ruined. Proceeding from thofe ruins acrofs an orchard of date-trees, we arrive at the canal of Cleopatra, which fupplies Alexandria throughout the year with frefr water. The original deflgn of this work, was to facilitate commerce between Alexandria and Grand Cairo. It is now, however, in a very decayed con dition, almoft choaked in many parts, and hardly furnifliing water fufficient for the refervoirs of the city. Contiguous to the w<.*ls and towers :.bove-mentioned are catacombs, or fepulcnial grottos, which flretch to a confiderable di(l::nce along the fea fliore. They are cut in the rocks, fometimes one above another, fometimes in the fame line, according as the fituatioii of the place pci nitted. The length of each is greater than the comniv-'i ftandard ot man j tiic breadth fuch as may hold two bodies laid befide one another; an' the height is difFerent, depending on the nature of the tock. Avarice, or the hope of finding fomething valuable, has opened them all, but nothing elfe ha; been found in them than human bodies, or the birc ibis, embalmed; the latter of which being red,ardt(l as facred by the ancient Egyptians, were placed with every mark of veneration in the manfions of the dead Wc now feek in vain for any veft^ges of the Pharo~, reckoned one of the feven wonders of the world ; which the famous archite£l Softratus built by order of Ptolemy Philadelphus, who expended upon it no lefs than.eight hundred talents. The flately edifice, like- wife, furnamed the Mufeum, where the literati ufcd to meet, and were maintained at the public expence, is no longer difcernible; and the famous library of the Egyptian I ings has periflied, with the invaluable tiea- fure it contained. New Alexandria forms a (triking eontraft to the magnificence of the old, in rrfpeiSl both of grandeur and extent, Inftcad of the mod fuperb terrples, we now meet only with inconfiderable mofques ; in the rocm of the moft magnificent palaces, nothing but dwelling houfes, of the meaneft conltruftion. The celebrated mart of antiquity is now decayed to a mere landing place, occupied by a few interefted ftrangers, and a colledtiun of wretches who live in the moft fordid dependence. The r&ad from Alexandria tc "ofetto being a fandy defart, could hardly be found, wen it not marked out by pillars erefled acrofs the plain. This town, which lies at the mouth of the weftern channel of the river Nile, as Rofctta does at that of the eaftern, is two miles long, of a circular figure, and the houfc* as well built as almoft any in tgypt. Here is a good manufafiory of coarfc linens, and a brifk trade; but (hips cannot come up fo high as the town, en account of a bar which lies acrofs the mouth of the river. AM European commodities that pafs between Alexandria and Cairoi are therefore landed here, and 4 put on board other veflels. For this purpofe^ the Europeans have their vicc>confuls and faflors to tranf- a£l bufmefs. Letters are brought hither regularly from Alexandria by land, to be lent to Cairo by water} but in matters of great confequence, they arcdit'patched by fpeci.il mefTengers acrofs the defarts. When Dr. Pococke was at this place, he faw two of thofe ideots, whom the Egyptians deem faints. One of them was a lufty elJcrly man, the other about the age of eighteen. They went about the ftreeta naked, and were held in prodigious veneration. When the women vifit the fepulchres, which is a common pr.'iftice every Friday, they not only kifs the hands of thofe wretches, but alfo other parts, which it ma^ not be fo proper to mention ; a teftimuny of regard from which they imagine fome peculiar advantages may be derived. Cairo, the capital of Egypt, is diflinguiflied into tWo cities, the one called Grand Cairo, and the other Old Cairo, lying a little above the place where the river divides to form the Delta, on the fiteof the foitrefs and town of Biib>Ion on the Nile, Grand Caiio is Atuate in 32 degrees 12 minutes of caft longitude, and in 30 degrees 2 minutes of n 'h latitude; in a plain at the foot of a mountain, two mile call of the bank of the river INile, and a hundred miles fouth of tho mouth of ';ac river. The town is ten miles in cir- ' umtcrence, and contains about a million of in- M.ibitants. 1 he ftrccts are extremely narrow in fome laces, and (he houfes rather commodious than hand- iomc. The lower part confirts generally of ftone, but the upper part of cage- work, liued with unburnt brick. They are for the muft part richly furnifhcd and adorned within. There is here a great mixture of inhabitants; for befides the original Egyptians, the city abounds in Greeks, Jews, Armenians, European;, and a Molatto race, who are natives of Nubia, and have a fort of government amongft themfelvcs. Thofe people fupply the country with fervants; and fo .ici li their attach- ment to each other, that they have a common purfe, out of which they fupport fuch as arc fick, or out of place. Here are alio fome Turks, and a few remaina of the Mamalukc race. Cairo is remarkable for the good regulation of its police. At the ends of almoft every ftreet, or at leaft of every ward, are gates, which are always ftiut at the approach of night, and guarded by a number of jant^ faries. Here alfo is a grand mafter of the police, called huali, who has the infpciEllon of the markets, weights, and mcafures. This officer has power of life and death. He walks often through the city by night, aa well as by day, attended by a band of fifty liflorSj who execute immediate juftice on all trefpaflcrs. Amonpft many magnificent mofques, which orna- ment this city, that built by Sultan HafTan is the mofl confpicuous. Theafcent to it was formerly by feveral fteps, which are now broken down, to prevent the maleconlents from taking refuge in it, as had been the praAlce in times of public infurrcfiion ; and for farther fecurity, a body of janifaries keep guard in an adjoining apart- Cairo.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. m spiKinent. Th« building ftandi a« the foot of the caftle-hill} the top of it, which is \oky, 'oeing carved in the Turkifli minner, and the entrance iint^y inlaid with various forts of marble. Another mofque, belonging to the Arabs, i* likewife much admired. The body of it is fixty foot fquare, crowned with a beautiful dome, and wainfcotted to the height of eight foot, with the fincft green and red porphyry. The carvings and gildings- are admirable, and all round the walls are Arabic infcriptions in golden letters. The cupola lilcewife it beautifully painted, and the whole embclliflied with a number of glafs lamps, and oftrich's eggs, fo artfully difpofed as to produce a fine effeil on the eye, This grand room is faid to have been built by a vizir, who requeued of the fultan permilHon to prepare a place fit to entertain him with flierbet, on his retura from Mecca, . The people of Cairo, and in general the inhabitants of Lower Egypt, are reputed to be ingenious, but it is obfervcd, that farther up the Nile they become very heavy and ftupid<. The trade of the place is ftill great, though not fo flourifhing c? formerly. The imports are broad cloths, tin, lead, 'aw filk from India, neat brafs and iron work, and cu. ious ornaments in ftlver. Their exports arc coffee, flax, drugs, and various forts of dyes, with fome fugar, neither cheap nor fine, except a little whiph it preferved for the ufe of (he grand feignior. Notwithllanding the extenfive trade of this city, there is amongft the Egyptians but little credit. They rarely tranfaft bufinefs by bills, but deal all for ready money. Confuls from almoft all the maritime coun- tries of Europe have here their refidence ; and there is likewife a great number of foreign merchants. Thofe people being foclable amongll one another, live very comfortably. The morning they devote to bufinefs, and the remainder of the day to diVerfion. They are for the moil part exceeding hofpltable, and afford a kind reception to ffrangers, who would othcrwife be 'Very ill accommodatcu in the wretched inns of the Egyptians, The word circumftance rcfpefting Cairo, is its being fo liable to the plague, from which it is rarely exempted for a longer period than three or four years at a time. The caftle of Cairo fcands to the fouth of the city, on a rocky hill, furrounded by a wall of great height and folidity, and defended by feveral towers. The afcent is by a way hewn out of a rock, which loaded horfes and camels get up without difiiculty. What we find moft worthy of obfervation In this fortrefs, is Jofeph's Well, fo called from a vizir of that name. The work is undoubtedly very ancient, and becoming the magnificence of the moft powerful kings of Egypt, This well is cut in the folid rock, and is in depth two hundred and fevcnty-fix foot. The dimenfions of its mouth are twenty-four foot by eighteen. The water is conveyed upwards by means of two wheels, placed at different heights, and worked by oxen ; for the pafl'age of which a winding path leads down by the fide of the well, in fuch a manner as to prevent thole animals from falling out of the track) and from fpace to fpace, the defcent is enlightened by 'windows. The well at the bottom it abovit nine or ten foot deep, fupplied from a fpring, which is almoft the only one ir> the country. The tafte of the water is brackifli, and it is only ufed in a fiege, or on fome other urgent occafion. In the country adjacent to Cairo itand the celebrated pyramids, the ftrudture and duration of which are univerfally the wonder of mankind, Thofe prodi- gious monuments are fuppofed to have been eredled as burial places for the ancient kings of Egyptj but fo remote is their origin, that they are anterior to the moft early hiftorians whofe writings arc preferved, and were regarded as of high antiquity, even at the time when the firft Grecian philofophers travelled hither. The principal pyramids ftand to the eaft- fouth-eaft of Gize, a village fituated en the weftcrn bank of the Nile, not far from Cairo, and near the fpot which is fuppofed to have been the fite of the ancient Memphis, The number of them is confidcrable ; though what particularly merit attention are four, the reft being not only lefs, but almoft entirely dcmolifhed, Thofe four fland nearly in a firait line, diftant one from the other about four hundred paces. The pyramids ftand at the foot of the mountains, upon a rocky plain about a Danifl) leaguu in circum- ference, the fuiface of which is eighty foot of perpen- dicular height above the ufual level of the grcatcft: inundation of the Nile; and on this plain, which fecms to be paitly artificial, the marks of the chizzcl arc yet perceptible. It is covered with fand blown from the high mountain where they incline from the horizon. Whin ISO THE M O R N [Africa. i When the firft two channels are pafied, a retting place occufj, with an opening on the right hand for another channel, where, except a fecond refting place, we meet with nothing but bats, which are extremely troublefome. The annoyance of thofe creatures is the more grievous, that after fufTering it, we cannot pro- fecute our enquiry on account of tLe fand, but are obliged to return to the firft mentioned refting place. The third channel leads hence to a fmall chamber, half R\M with ftones taken from the wall on the right hand, to open there another channel, which ter- minates in a nich not far from it. It is vaulted ridge-wife, and inlaid with granite, which is become black by the fmoke of the flambeaus of its vifitors. Returning by the fame way, we next climb up to the fourth channel, which is a^fo vaulted in a ridge-like form. The fifth condudls to the fuperior chamber, which is nineteen foot high, thirty-two foot long, and fixtcen broad ; in the way to which, about the middle of the channel, is a fmall apartment. Within the former, on the left fide, is a large urn, or farco- phagus, of granite, without any ornament. The breath and depth are about three foot, and the length a littie more than fix. Northward of the farcophagus, is a deep hole, apparently made flnce the pyramid had been iinifhed. Nothing more is here to be feen, ex- cept two little inals, one to the nor'^i, and the other to the fouth, which are now ftopped up with the ftones that have been thrown by the curious, with the view of difcovering their extent. According to fome, the height of this pyramid is five hundred and twenty-two foot, w'th a bafe of fix hundreu apd eighty-two foot fquare; but by the com- putation of others, the height amounts to fix undred and fixtccn foot, and each fide of the bafe to fevcn hundred and four foot of horizontal extent. On the top, which viewed from below, feeiris to terminate in a point, is a platform, about fixteen or feventcen foot fquare; and on the outfidc arc ftones by which the pyramid is afccnded. The fecond pyramid is exaflly fimilar to the former, but bears no marks of ever having been opened. The third is of the fame conftruflion, but lower by a hundred foot. It is fliut, like the fecond, and with- out any covering. The fourth is a hundred foot lower than that immediately preceding, and is termi- nated on the fummit by one great ftone, which fcemo to have fervcd for a pedeftal. Thofe four pyramids are furrounJed by fcveral others, of fmallcr dimenfions, and moftly ruinous; in one of which is a fquare well about thirty foot deep. Hiftory informs us, that in building the largcft of the Egyptian pyramif'.o, a thoufand men were con- ftantly kept in .rmployment, v.'ho were relieved every three months by the fame number. Ten years are faid to have been fpent in preparing the materials; and double that time in conftruiSing the prodigious edifice, txpreft on the pyramid, in Egyptian charaflers, were the funis it had coft only in garlic, leeks, onions, and the like, for the workmen ; which amounted to fixtccn hundred talents of filver, or four million five hundred thoufand French livrcs. A conjeiHure may hence be I formed, what the whole expence of the building mult have been. Such are the Egyptian pyramids, which by their figure as well as enormous magnitude, have triumphed over the united injuries of time and barbarians > monuments of the vanity and infolent opprefTion of the kings by whom they were conftruciad. Pliny, with great pro- priety, calls them a foolifh and ufelefs oftentation of the wealth of the Egyptian kings; and adds, that by a juft punifliment, the memory of thofe princes is buried in oblivion, hiftorians not agreeing with refpeA to the perfon by whom they are faid to have been founded. Other writers inform us, that the infatuated monarchs were even debarred from the fepulchrcs which they had raifed with fo much labour and expence. On account of the public hatred which they incurred, by impofing upon their fubje£is a work fo burdenfome and unnecefTary, they were interred in fome obfcure place, to prevent their bodies from being facrificed to the indignation and refentment of the people. It is the remark of Diodorus, that the induftry of the ar- chitects of thofe pyramids is no lefs valuable and praife- worth/, than the defign of the Egyptian kings contemptii : a.^d ridiculous. Dr, Shaw, however, is of opinion, that the pyra- mids were not intendtd for the tombs of the Egyptian princes, as has been generally imagined. The chefl: of granite marble which is found in the upper chamber of the great pyramid, he fuppofes to have been rather intended for fome religious ufe, than for the cofHn of Cheops. He thinks it is more probable, that this cheft was ufed in the myftical worfhip of Ofiris ; or that it fervcd for one of their facred chefts, in which cither the images of their deities, or their facred veft- ments, or utcnfils, were kept; or laftly, that it might have been a favifta, or ciftern, fuch as contained the holy water, which was ufed in their ceremonies. He alfo thinks that the length of it, which is fomewhat more than fix foot, does not favour the received opinion of its having been defigned for a coffin; and that the height and the breadth, which are each about three foot, exceeds greatly the dim nfions, that were ob> fervcd in works of fuch a kind. Dr. Shaw farther remarks, that all the ftone coffins which he had feen in Kgypt, were of a quite different form from the fuppofed repofitory of Cheops, being infcribed with hieroglyphics, and made exaflly in the faftiion of the mummy chefts, juft capacious enough to receive one body. But that the cheft in queftion is an oblong fquare, not ending, like the mummy chefts, in a kind of pedeftal, upon which it might have been credlcd. Neither is it adorned with any facred charadlers, which from the great number of coffins that are never known to want them, fccm to have been a general mark of regard and piety to the deceafed. He alfo obfervcs, that this cheft is placed it in a manner different from what was perhaps ever the cuftom of the Egyptians, in depofiting of their dead. For the mummies always ftand upright, where time or accident has not difturbed them; but the cheft in the pyramid lies flat upon the floor. From u« I: If! [Africa. building mud by their figure 'iumphed over i monuments the kings by ith great pro- oftentation of adds, that by ife princes is g with refpeft to have been the infatuated ulchrcs which ;xpence. On incurred, by > burdenfome feme obfcure ; facrificed to leople. It is •y of the ai- valuable and gyptian kings lat the pyra- the Egyptian The cheft ipper chamber e been rather the coffin of ble, that ihi* )f Ofiris ; or ts, in which r facred veft- that it might contained the :monies. He mewhat more ed opinion of and that the about three lat were ob» Hone coffins [uite different 'heops, being naflly in the :ious enough t in quellion the mummy ch it might :d with any t number of m, fcem to piety to the is placed it jerhaps ever ng of their right, where but the cheft \ m^: From i : ( Egypt.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 121 From what has been faid. Dr. Shaw obfervci, that if this chcft wris not intended for a coffin (and indeed , Herodotus tells us, that Cheops's tonjb was in a vault below) we have a prcfumptive argument, that the pyramid couH not thence have t'lken the name of a fepulchre. Nay, had even Cheops and others been buried within the precinfts of this, or any of the pyramids, it was no more than what was commonly praftifed in other temples; and therefore would not afFcft the principal ufe or defign for which they were erc£led. From the whole, Dr. Shaw concludes, that the pyramids were chiefly in- tended for places of devotion. About three hundred paces eaftward of the fecond pyramid, is the monftrous ftatue of a fphinx, cut out of the rock, reprcfcnting the head of a woman, with half the bread. The head is twcnty-fix foot high, and meafures from the ear to the chin fifteen foot. The lower part of the neck is thirty-three foot in diameter. In the top of the head is a hole, which probably is the channel by which the priells commu- nicated their falfe oracles to the credulous multitude. There is an opening alfo in the back, through which perhaps ihey dcfcendcd to the fubterranean apartments, Befides its pyramids, Egypt was alfo famous for the number and beauty of obeIi(ks, which abounded in every part of the kingdom, and fome of which form at this day the principal ornaments of Rome, Sefoftris creiSted in the city of Heliopolis, two obeliflts of granite, brought from the quarries of Syene, at the extremity of Egypt ; each of which is faid to have been a hundred and eighty foot high. They were afterwards tranfported to Rome by the order of Au- guftus. A third, of yet more extraordinary magni- tude, which was made in the reign of Ramifes, and is faid to have employed twenty thoufand mch in the cutting of it, was likewife removed to Rome in the time of the emperor Conftantius. Two of thofe obe- lilks remain, as well as another meafuring a hundred and fifty foot in height, which Julius Caefar brought from Egypt in a fhip of fo odd a form, that, according to Pliny, the like had never been conflru£led. The defign of the Egyptian obeliflcs feems to have been to ferve as ornaments before the portals of temples, of palaces, and at the ends of colonnades. Their form, to a certain height, is quadrangular; after which they become cylindrical; then taper gradually, till they end in a pyramidical fummit. They are, or at leaft have been made, originally of one piece. Their pcdcHal is a cube, which commonly does not exceed the breadth of the obeliflcs above three foot. This, with part of the obeliflcs, are for the moft part funk in the earth, and the quadrangular fpaces upwards covered with hieroglyphical figures. Two of the moft beautiful obeliflcs extant in Egypt are at Lukorcen, which is thought to have been part of ancient Thebes, Their faces are fix foot eight inches in breadth, and their height in proportion; but one is taller than the other. They both (land before a portal, or at the entrance of fonic fuperb ruins, and their workmanftip is reckoned the moft admirable cf any that is to be fcen. Near Carnac No, ti. arc ftvcral others, of fimilar conflruflion, amongft which, two arc remarkable for the beauty of the granite. They are only about ten or eleven ""lot high, and are fuppol'ed to have been the pedeftals of two idols. Near the fame place, which is fuppofcd to have been thefite of ancient Thebes, are two coloflal figures, one reprefenting a man, and the other a woman.' They are feated, at the diflance of twenty-one paces from each other, on cubical ftones of fifteen fcot, with pedeftalt five foot high, thirty-fix and a half long, and upwards of nineteen wide. Both ftatues look towards the Nile, and in their fedent podure the altitude of each is about fifty foot, including the pedeftals. They confift of feveral blocks of a greyifli gravel ftone, and feem to have been brought from the caverns, which abound in the neighbouring mountains. Contiguous to the coloflal figures are ruins, fup- pofcd to be thofe of the palace of Memnon. The portico of the temple alone is fufficient to give us a high opinion of Egyptian architecture. Each column has over its capital fmall fquare (loncs, which ferve as beams for larger blocks of the fame materials. Some of thofe mafles are forty foot long, and two thick; above which are others in a tranfverfe pofition, united in the manner of planks. The whole is co- vered with hieroglyphics, and painted in the moft: lively colours, in a flile which has neither fhade nor gradation ; but the objects arc incru.led as the figures of the dial-plates of watches, with this difference, that the former cannot be detached. In refpedl tothe architedlure of this edifice, on the eaft and weft fides is a wall, which ferves for an en- clofure, but on the north and fouth are colonades. The building was fupported by three rows of columns, in each of which were twenty-one, but fome arc now wanting, Thofe in the middle arc the tailed : their circumference is twenty- four Danifh foot, and their height in proportion. They are without capitals, but ornamented with hieroglyphics. The floor is covered with ruins, and with fand three or four foot deep. About fifty paces from this ftruiSlure are other re- mains of antiquity, which feem to have been n gallery round the court, and are probably thofe mentioned by Philoftrates, where he treats of the temple of Memnon. Here are many pilafters made of feveral pieces of the (lone above-mentioned. Each is covered with a Term, the arms folded, and in the right hand a fort of hook. The heads are wanting, but a part of the ufual head- drefs of Egyptian figures remains on the flioulderL, On fome of the pilallers are blocks of ftone, covered with hieroglyphics. Behind the gallery is a wall in a ruinous condition. The upper part ..ppears to have been joined to the colonade with larg; ftones, by which means was con- trived a walk flitltered from the fun. Many fragments of coloflal ftatues are fcattered, but none that can be confidered as any part of the celebrated ftatue of Memnon. At MedincI Habu, a town fituated on part of the ruins of Thebes, is an ancient and magnificent portal, H h well 122 THE MODERN [Africa. well prcfcived, anJ of uncomition bcniity. Oppofilc \ p:irt of which is now buiicJ; and on tiic lup arc ;i few is ;i kiiul of aiiti-ch.-.iiiber, built witli large blocks of white Hone, covcic^l with liitroglyphics ; to which aJjoiiis a pii:ce of .1 wall, om.mieiucj 1,' the fame in'.'.ui pigtoii Kouks. ProcecJinu; hij^her along the fuIi; of the river, we .irrivc at 'rfch-il-cl-EfltliLle, which (i Mii.lci the Moyii- m.-Jincr. The architrave of the port.il has two diczcs, I tain cf the Chi'n. According to tiaJaion, the pufilij; one on the top of the other, and is highly poliflicd. of the Nile v,ai here intercepted by a contrivance of On the I onti:piecc may be perceived the figure of a that kind. The bid of the river is very narrow at dragon, w.th that fort of cartoiich wliicli was a f.i- | iliis place. On the cart fide is the mountain abo\o- vourite ornament amongft the Egyptians ; all in balTi) | mentioned, r.iid on the well a rock. In the ncigli- lelitvo, and ineniftcd with colours. lichind this portal there appears to be three others in fucceiTiDii, fo buried in rubbifli, that they cannot be dilHjKTly bourhood are many grottoi, which have (Vrvcd as fcptik'lires, and their fules are covci(.d with hiero- glyphics, Kour figures remain, in a ftdcnt pollurr, obferved. The buildings on the right hand have alfu | in alto relievo, and of a n.uural fizc. '1 wo of them the appearance of being magnificent, but elude the I rcprefent men, and the other two women. 'I'ht cnquirie! of the fpeiStator from the f.ime caufe. men, who are in the middle, have ihcir arms acrofs Fragments of antiquities are likcwife found about ' on their breafts, ai-,d each woman holds the man next the village of Armenut in Upper Egypt. This ' to her under the aim. A hicroglyphical table, in was ihc ancient Hcrmonthis, which flood on the well: , ball'o relievo, is near, which probably contains the fide ol the Nile, over againd Thebes. Hire Jupiter ; epitaphs of the perfons interred, and Ajjollo were worfhipped, and the facred ox main j Farther foutli, near 'he village of Ean;b.;n, wo meet taincd. Higher up, on the flime fide of the Nile, we meet with r.ore ant.qiiitics at ilie ciiy of Efnay, which is with an ancient edifice railed on twcnty-thicc columns, well executed, End covered with hieroMyphics 5 of which the flones li at form the roof ate of a prodigious the refidence of an Arabian chief, and fuppcfed to 1 fize. The columns arc twenty four foot in circuni- occupy the file of Latopolis; fo called from a large fifli named l.atos, which was woti.iipped by the in- ference. About fifty p'crs hence, on the (lope of a mcuntnin, hKliitants. In the middle of the city is an ancient ! is another antique nioiniment, above eighteen foot temple, clof.d on thiee fides, having in the front twenty f"ur columns, which arc well prefcrved. Round the top of the edifice runs a channelled border; but in the middle, which is the front of the temple, i3 s cartouch, or ornament fimilar to that on all the high. It is coippofed of large fquarc blocks of whitifh ftonc, like marble, covered with hiero^'lyphics. In the center of the wall is a nich, regularly fq'iarrd in the middle, but larger above than below. It is conjedlured that this building has been an altar, and grand portals of Egypt. The ftruflure is alfo bor- 1 that an idol had been placed in the nich. ilercd with a demi-cordon, tlic fides of which are In the ifl.ind of Fll-fag, the ancient Elephantine, covered with hieroglyphics, that feem to Lc of extreme : formed by the Nile, flands an edifice caiUd the temple remote antiquity. Stones tranfverfely placed are of the Serpent Knuphis, which fccms however to l'..;ve fupportcd by co'.iimns, on the former of which arc i been rather a fepuleliral monument. It is in the fi.rm fixed large fiat n.afi'es of the fame material, adorned ' of a cloyftcr, fupportcd on two fides by fevcral colunins, with hieroglyphics. The columns are likewifc covered but on the other two, by one only in the middle. with hieroglyphics, which in fome places are very fmall, and much crowded. It is obfervabic, that in this temple not one capital of a column is fimilar to another in ornament, though the proportion in all be the fame. The infide of the edifice is blackened by the finoke of the fire. All the other p.uts are didimftly feen, except the gate and The corners are of folid wall, covered with hiero- glyphics; but they ate fo plaificred with mud, and blackened with fmokc, by the flicphcrds who refort hither, as to be hardly difcerniblc. The length of the ftruflurc is about eighty Danifh foot, and t!.c breadth twenty. Near it Hands a pcdeftal, made of large blocks of a white ftone, full of deck in.'crip- the intervals of the columns in the front, which the tions. At this place, according to the Notitia Im Arabians hnvc filled up, with the view of cn- clofing their cattle, it being now converted to that ufe. At Edfu, once Apollinopolis, is a confidcrablc monument of antiquity. It refembles a portal, but is ul'ed ly the Turks as a citadel, A cordon runs round it in the Egyptian tafte. On the top is no cornice, that part having perhaps been dcfiroyed by tl'.e injuries of ti:nc. The flrudure has a fimple and peril, was ftalioned the laft Roman garrifnn. (^n the cad fide of the Nile, In the ifiand of Cicfirct EU-Htift, the I'hilo of the ancients, is a temple of uncommon beauty, fuppofed to be that of Ifis ; and near it another, of inferior dimcnfions,- but likewifc remarkable for its elegance, conjciiluted to be the temple of tl;e Hawk, which is mentioned by Strabo. Of thofc two beautiful edifices we can only fpcak in [leneral, the barbarians who inhabit the neighbourhood tlegp.nt r.ppcarancc, and on ti.e front are three rows : precluding .nny accurate obfervation ; a difappoint- cf hicrcgljpl-.ical figures, rcprcfcnting children. In ! mcnt which thofe frequcnily experience, whom curio- li.e fouth fide are fevcral windows, very high, and ; fity leads into the more fequeftcrcd parts of this running in tn oblique dirciilion. The portal is or- [ coirntry. ijamciited with a cartoirch. Here arc likewife the [ The ancient Arfinoe now lies in a heap of ruins; ruins of an ancient temple of Apollo, ths greateil ; amongft which may be difcovcred I'cvcial canals, with ' 7 fume [Africa* lop aic ;i (civ ho river, we C:. the Moijll- 11, lIlJ p;ifi!ij; onlrivaiicc of :ry narrow at iitain aboie- 1 llic neigli. vc lined a> with hicro- deiit |>o(}urr, wo of tiiciii ^omeii. Tilt ari'iis acrofs he man next c.il lablc, in cciuainii thf ,).;n, wc meet lircc coluinns, ::ly;)hics ; ot t n prodigious )t in circuni- Ecypt] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 123 Elephantine, kd the temple wevcr to !;..vu s in the form eral columns, the tniddlc. J with hiero- th mud, and Is who rcfort he length of oot, and tl.c fal, made of leek infcrip- Notltia Im- m. nd of Cicfirct a temple of of Ifis i and but likewili: d to be the ;d by Strabo. inly fpcalt in ighbourhood 1 difippoiiit- ivhoni curio - arts of this ip of ruins; cjuals, Willi fome fome remains of a round brick buildir.g, partly cii- crufted wiih a pctrific.ilion. It has the appearance n( having once been a b.ignio, and this conjedure is confi.med by common report. In the way huher wc have a dillaiit view of the famous Labyrinth wiiich, according to Herodotus, was built at the time when Egypt wa: divided into twelve governments, the fcvcral kings of which had here their rcfpei!1ivc palaces, where ihcy occafiomlly met to tranfaiSl all matters of Hate and religion. Other writers dificr from hipi, with regard to the founders of this extraordinary edi- fice; but all agree that it contained three thoufand the contrary, when the inun^hridn was too low, and threatened a famine, a fufficient quantity of water waj fupplicd to the landj, by the help ol drains from the lake. The waters of the lake Miris are l.;!t, nitrous and muddy, but kfs f) as they approach the Nile. The banks "-e at firft flatey, then maddy, aiij in- cruded wiii. fair. It abounds in all forts of fifh that are natives of the Nile. To ferry over this celebrated river, whicii has been fo frequently mentioned, a particular kind of flat boat is ufcd, made of large earthen pitchers tic I tl.il'e to- gether, and covered with palm-tree leaves. I Iij m?.\\ magi.ificent apartments, half under, and half above j who Iteers, has commonly a cord ha.vj;in- from hi* ground ; that they were cut out of (lone, without any mouth, with which, as he fails, h.- fidies. wood in the ftrudurc ; that no ftranger could find hii way through it without a clue or a guide ; and that the celebrated Labyrinth of Crete was only a model of it. The whole building was covered with ftone, fupported by innumerable pillars, and adorned with elegant fculptures. In the lower apartments were dcpolitcd the facred crccoJiles, «iid the bodies of the kings who founded the building. The crocodil'.s were bred up tame in the neighbouring lake of Ma:ris, C II A P. III. 0/ dijiafti — diver/ions —fortune-tAhrs — gypjies — the dptis. I TIE great heat of the climate cxpofcs the inhabi- •*• tants of Egypt to a variety of difordcrs, amongft which one of tl. moft univerfal, efpeci.'.lly in funimer. and the worfliip of them is faid to have aiilcn 1 is fore eyes. This complaint owes its origin chiefly from the life of an ancient king being faved by one | to the fcorching heat refleacd from the f;:nd ; but it of thofe animals. The monarih, purfued by his own is greatly aggravated by the dud, which iiillnnatcs dogs, was in danger of being torn in pieces by them, when plunging for fafety into a lake, a crocodile op- portunely prefenttd his back, and wafteil the royal burthen fafe to the oppofitc fhore. The king, out of gratitude, ordained that divine honours Ihould be paid to it; and not fatisfied with (jivir-^i to Arfinoc, which he then founded, the name of the City of Crocodiles, he built a pyramid and labyrinth for the interment of his aquatic deliverer. itfelf into the eyes, and, by a faltilli quality it pofTefTes, excites irritation. Difordcrs of the bowcli are alfo frequent, fuch as a pain in the ftomach, and flu.xcE, fometimes accompanied with dangerous fevers. A common complaint among the men is a fwelling of the fcrotum ; and both fex-is, particularly at Cairo, are much afflicted with a fvvclling of the legs, attended with fharp pains. At the feafon when the waters of the Nile begin to rife, moft people ate troubled with Some authors have affirmed that the lake Miris was an inflammation, which aft'cfls the whclebody; but the work of art, but it certainly muft have exifled from the beginning, though it may have been improved or deepened by the king to whom it is afcribed. What, it may be afkcd, became of the earth dug out of fuch a vaft abyfs, which is at prefent about fifty miles long, and ten broad ? Could (o great a work have been executed in the reign of one prince? What Ihould prompt the Egyptians to lofe the furfacc of fo much land; and by what art could they fill this vaft tradl with the fuperfluous waters of the Nile? So many are the objections againft its being artifleial. this feems to proceed from fome other czi.fc than the inundation of the river, which has a falurary influence on the inhabitants, as well as incrcafes the fertility of the foil; even the plague, a difeal'c fo frequent at Cairo, ceafing to be mortal during almod the whole of this period. The greater part of thofo difeafes arifing from irritation, they nuiil be incrcaftd not only by the mufquittos or gnats, v.hicli fwarm fo much, that in the hot feafon there is no fieeping for them 1 the night, hut alfo by the fand, which infinuates itfelf every where, bcfpreading even the bcd-cloath:, and that to maintain fuch an opinion, would not only be is as hot as if it had been warmed with a pan of eoals. in the higheft degree repugnant to probability, but even ridiculous. This lake had a communication with the Nile by a great canal four leagues long, aivd fifty broad, which opeir.d or fluit by large fluiccs, as occafion required. The charge of either of thofe operations is faid to amount 10 fifty talents, that is fifty thoufand French crowns. The fifliing of the lake brought the monarch immenfe funis ; but its principal iiCe related to the overflowing of the Nile. When the latter rofe too high, and was like to be attended with fatal confe- quenccs, the fluiccs were opened, and the waters having a free paflage into the lake, covered the land no lo.'igcr than was ncccflary to enrich them, On As for phyficians or remedies, the Mahometans of Egypt hardly ever have recourfe to any, adhering per- tinaceoufly to their doflrinc of unalterable fate; with rcfpcdl to which they arc fo much confirmed in opinion, that when the plague is in a family, they vifit their neighbours as at other times, and do not fcruple to wear the cloaths of a perfon who died of it. The grrateft feflivity known in Egypt prevails at the beginning of the annual inundation, when thcuykcs are thrown down, to admit the water into tlic canil.^. At Cairo, the bafliaw and h'n beys, with a :.,imeroui retinue, aflift at the ceremony, which was anciently accompanied with the horrible cuftom of facrificing a virgin to the river- god. This barbarous pra'Slicc, hew- m 1*4 H E MOD R N [Africa. howtvcfi is now happily .iboIifheJ, periiaps the only mark of civilizatiuii that diltinguiflics the modern Egyptians. Inftead of that oH'ering, a pillar which itandi at a little diflance, is adorned y^ith flowers, over liberty at home, they refolved to Jirpufc tliciii(4:ln.ii into foreign i.:)uniiici ; and that lliuy n:igli: be able to procure ,i fublUK-nee without labour, tu which thry hod an invincible avethon, rhry availed thcnifilvci of the which the waters rufliing, carry them awjy, while, i general credulity of ihe t mcs, by pretending to the amidd univerfal Ihonts of juy, the populace throw into the water, nuts, melons, and other fruits; and a firc-worlc, confiding of only about twenty rockets, but reckoned here very conflderable, is play:d o&. The people on thufe occaflons commit a thovfand follies; dances of the moft lafcivious gcl^iculation arc performed ; and there is hardly a year but Tome lives are loll in thofe tumultuous rejoicings. At other times, diverfions arc neither frequent nor numerous, cfpecially in the country, and the fmaller towns. The lUeets of Cairo are infefled by jugglers, ballad-fingers, and fortune-tellers. Amongft the a- jnufements with which they vheedle the people out of moni'y, they lead about dancing camels. Thofe animals are taught to dance when they are young, by being fet upon a heated floor, which giving them a great deal of pain, caufes them to lift up their legs alternately ; and while they are in this ftatc of motion, a perfon beats upon a drum. The cfFciS is, th.it afterwards, whenever the creature hears the n.,ife of a drum, he immediately renews the dancing "lotion. The fortune-tellers breed up little birds, which, when any petTon comes to enquire concerning the fuccefs of his affairs, carry him a fmall Ccroll of paper, ready prepared, in which he finds cither his good or bad fortune written; and to this impofture many of the people pay the mofl religious regard. It appears upon enquiry, that the vagrants called gypfies, thofe pretended fortune tellers that iiifefl: moft countries in Europe and Afia, were originally of Egyp- tian cxtraiSion. In Turky thofe people are called Zinganccs, from their captain Zingancus, who, when the fultan Selimus made a conqucft of Egypt about the year 1517, with feveral other Mamalukcs, and as many native Egyptians as refufcd to fubmit to the Turkifh yoke, '-etired into the defarts, where they lived by rapine, and frequently came down to the plains of Egypt, committing great outrages in the towns upon the Nile, under the dominion of the Turks. By the concourfe of idle perfons, who re- forted to them, with the view of participating in their plunder, they encreafed at length to fo formidable a body, that the Turks were glad to enter into a treaty with them ; in which it was agreed, that they fhould lay down their arms, and be permitted the fame privi- leges which other fubjefls enjoyed. The Zinganccs, however, having been fo long accuflomed to a vagabond, rapacious life, and being totally un- acquainted with the arts of induHry, began to have recourfe to their former method of fubOftence. . For fome time, their outrages were overlooked by the Turks, for fear of another infurredlion ; but proving irreclaimable, they were formally banilhed the king- dom, and a power was given to anv man to kill a Zangancc, or make him his Have, if he was found within the territories of Egypt after a limited time. Perceiving it now impoflibic to maintain their art of fortune-telling, Thii was a Uience in which the people of their country were vainly imagined to be proficient, and the natural fwarthinefs of their com- plexion, by evi'iring their defcent, contributed not a little towards the fuc'efs of the impollurc. Soon after this period, in the re'gn of Henry VIII. an ai5l of parliament palled in En|;land, reciting, I'hat, whereas certain outlandifl) peojile, ufing no craft or merchandize to live by, but g^'i'^g from place tc place in great companies, ufing fubtle and crafty mtans to deceive the king's fubjeiHs, bearing them in hand, that they by palmeftry, can tell men and women's fortunes, and fo, many times fubtlcly deceive the pccple of their money, and commit divers felonies and roi'bcries: it is enaiSled, that all fuch offenders, commcnlv called Egyptians, who fhall remain in this realm fcr tlio fpace of one month, fhall be adjudged felons ; and that every perfon who fhall import futh Egyptians, fliould forfeit for every offence forty pounds. It being found, th,it feveral n.itivcs of our own country lifted themfdvcs amongft thofe I>yptimt3, and disfigured their faces that they might appear of the f.imc cxtraiSlion, ufmg likewil'e an uninttlligible canr, to which other people were as much ftrangers as to the language of Egypt, an amendment of the former ait was paffcd in the fifth year of Eliiabeth. Such are the arts by which the modern Egyptians are difiingulflied; the pofterity of a people renowned for their learning and wifdom, and from whom the molt celebrated Grecian philofophcrs received their improvement in fcience. With the learning of ancient Egypt, has perilhed the knowledge of the hicroj^ly- phical chara£lers, for the ufe of which it was remark- able. Happy for the honour of thofe times, had no memorials exifted of the extravagant and fupcrflitiuus idolatry, which degraded the inhabitants of Egypt, even during their ages of greatefl fplendor. I!ut hiflory records with indelible infamy, their aflonifljing adoration of animals of various fpccies ; amongft which were, oxen, crocodiles, cats, &c, Omnigenumque Oeum monftra, & latrator Anubis, The gofpcl is faid to have been preached in Egypt by St, Mark, who is efteemed the firft patriarch of Alexandria, During the pcrfccution which fucccedcd this event, many of the new piofelytcs retired to the city of Coptus, whence they obtained the name of Coptis, an appellation which has ever fincc been be- ftowed on the Chriftians of Egypt, They continued in union with the catholic church, till Diofcorcs, patriarch of Alexandria, embraced in part, the opinion of Eutyches, which was conduiHed by the fourth general council held at Chalcedon. When the Mahometans undertook the conqueft of Egypt, they joined the party of the Coptis, who by this means prevailed agiinfl their antagonifts, and thtiir patriarch was firmly ellabliflicd, as he continues to EOVPT.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 12; to be at prcfcnt. The Coptic church, in itj ccre- municD, conlidcrably relcmblcs the (ircck. The li- turpiei are in the Coptic language, which is fuppofcd to be a corruption of the ancient Egyptian tongue. The cpifllc and gofpcl iirc read buth in the Arabic and Coptic languages; but the latter i> unlcrllood only by a few of the pricfh, and not being a living tongue, is now little cultivated. This (aii fpcnds almoft all the night before t'eftivals and holidays, in their churches; a cuRom that perhaps arofe from their meeting to celebrate their devotions at night during the times of pcrfccutioii; and which has fince been continued, on account of the coolnefs. 'i'heir churches are always covered with matting. On entering, they take off their flippers, which it would be thought ill-breeding to wear even in their houfcs, and Itifj the pavement. They fit (ot the mod part on tlie ground, in an irreverent mnnncr; and when obliged to ftand up in any part of the fervice, they lean on crutches, with which they are fupplicd by the fexton. The extieme ignorance of their priefts affords a very good reafon for their not preaching. The patriarch makes a fliort difcourfu to them once a year, and the pricfts read ledturcs out of the pulpit on grciit feDivals. Deacons are made at eight or nine years old, who always receive the facrament when it is ad.miniftered. The Coptis obfervc the fabbath very ftriftly, InJ have many fad days. As abffinencc from flefli cannot be a great mortification to thofe who feldom have any to eat, their fads confift in not feeding upon eggs, iViilk, butter, oil, and fuch things as they commonly wfc; and in forbearing from thofe till noon or later. One of their greateft fafts is that of Lent, which be- gins fifty-five days before Eafter; and another is that of Advent, forty-three days before Chriftmas. They alfo faft fifteen days bt.'ore the Annunciation ; during which lime they cat no oil, ai'd live moftly on vegetables. The faft of the Apoftles begins forty days after Eaftcr: it is obferved for thirteen days by the laity, and fomewhat longer by the pricfts. They have alfo three days of a rigid faft before the feaft of Jonas. At the fcafon of Good Friday, they abftain from meat for twenty-five hours. To obtain leave of the patriarch to cat eggs in Lent, they fometlmes have recourfe to the following expedient. They lift him up in a chair, and afk him, if he will give them leave. On refufing it, they defire to know if he will be thrown down. When thofe queftions have been repeated three or four times, the confent of the patriarch is granted, and both he and the people feparate with mutual fatisfai^ion. 1 hey frequently efpoufe when they are feven or eight years old, and confummate the marriage at eleven or twelve; a few weeks before which time they are cir- cumcifed. The men eafily procure divorces, on ac- count of adultery, long ficknefs, or almoft for any djfagreement. At baptifm, they plunge the child in the water three times, after which they confirm, and give it the facrament; that is, the prieft dips the end of his finger into the chalice, which is filled with wine, and puts it into the child's mouth, No II The women keep their houfcs forty days after tliey arc delivered of a boy, and twcnty.fuur ii a giil; till which lime the baptifm .■ deferred, and (onietimcfi much longer. But if the child falls Tick in the in* terval, it is brought to church, where only baptifm cin be performed, and is laid on a tloili rear the font, The prieft then dips his hand into the water, with which he rubs tlic infant all dvurj but if thia ceremony is to be (iciformed at a time when tlicr. is no facrament, the child, father, and niutlier, nnift lemain in the church till next day. They give abfolution, as in the Greek church, and anoint all who aie fent, that the evil fjiirit may not enter them, 'ihcir coiifeflions arc gcr.er.il. Tlicy abftain from blood, and things flianglid. it is their opinion, that the fuul goes to h:aven in f»rty days after leaving ihc body ; but they pray for the dead both before and after that time. They proftrate thcmfelvcs before pidlures, but have no graven image, except a crui Ifix. The br-.ad which they ufc in their facraments it a fmall white cake, made of flour and water unleavened. The peoplu buy the corn with the money of the church, in which, after being made into flour, it ia al.' vs kept, 'i he cakes arc made by the facriftan, w.io chants feian ptovince till the reign of Hcraclius, the emucror of Conftaotinople, when the people being opf-teffed by their governors, called in Omer, the thiid caliph of the Saracens, and fubmitted thcmfelvcs to the Mahometan power, about the year of the Chriftian zra 640. The caliphs of Babylon continued fovereigns of the country till about the year 870, whea the Egyptians fet up a caliph of their own, called the caliph of Cairo, I i t9 1130 H E M U I) K R N [Af .< ICA- to whom the Siraceiis ol Africi uml Spiin were fub- jcft. But the governors ot the pron.icej, oi fiillans, under the Ciiliphi of Babylon and Cairo, foon \»re('ed the civil power oui of the handi of their caliphi or high pricOs, leaving thcni only a fhadow of fovr- reignty. About the year 1160, I'gypt was fubdurd by AlTa- rcddin, or Saricon, general of Norradin, the Saracen fi'ttan of Damafci.9 ; whofe fon, Saladin, reduced the kingdom of Daniafcus, Meropotamia, and Palefline, uni>r his power, and in the year 1190, took Jerufa- lem from the Chriftiani. It was this prince who eltablifhed in Egypt a body of troops, like the prcf'^nt janil'aries, conipoled of the foni of Chrifti < taken in war, or putchafeu of the l'a^t^rs. To this body he gave the nsme of Mamalukea, a word fignifying flaves, which among the troops of the Mahometan princes, is reckoned a title of gt^ut honour, as it exprefTes their being implicitly devoted to the fervice of their Tove- reign 1 on which account they are inuulged with greater privileges than other fubjefts. The pofterlty of Aflareddin enjoyed the crown till the year 1242, when the Mamalukea depofed Elmutan, as they had done his father Melech Asflach, fome yean before, and placed one of their own ofEcers upon the throne, The Mamaluke fult s were continually engaged in war with the Chriftians in Syria and Paicftine, till Araphus, the fixth fultan of the race, entirely dif- pofTefTed the Chriftians of the Holy Land. About the year 1501. Camfon Gr- jrus, the fifteenth fultan of the Mamalukea, entering into an alliance with Ifmael, the fophy of Perfia, againli Sdimus, the third emperor and tenth king of the Ottoman family, the confederates received feveral memorable defeats; and Tonombeius II. the fuccelTor of Camfon Gaurus, was depof.d and murdered by the vidlorious emperor. For fome time, Gazelle, one of the grandees of the Mamalukes, maintai.ied a war againft Selimus ; but being at length defeated, Egypt became a province of the Ottoman empire. The M.imaluke fultani were >lw.iys iliofon by a majority of Mamalukes out ot their umii body, who were lb jealous of the kingdom's bcin;; rendered here- ditary, that they harJIy ever cltiileil the fon ol the preceding fultan} or it the choice happened to tall on I'ljch a one, they were li> apprehcnlivc of its heing made an ill precedent, that they never idled, till they depol'ed him. Since the Ottoman emperors have had the dominion ot ihis kingdoin, they always governed it by a vice- roy, filled the bafhaw of Grand Cairo, who is ac- countable for his conduct only to the emperor, and ii ufually changed every two years. Under him are twenty-four beys or begs, whom he has the power of nominating, and who are anfwerable before him, a* he is before the Porte. One of thofe attends the carats, or tribute, which arc carried every year from Egypt to ConRantinople i another accompanies th* caravan to Mecca ; and thofe unemployed affill at the divan or council of the bafhaw. When Egypt fend* her contingent, or any troops to the emperor, they are always commanded by a perfon of this body; and when a man has been nominated a bey, the titli; re- mains during life. In every city is a cadiz, or judge, who dccidea law-fuits, and his fentencc is gener.dly without appeal, though upon a complaint of any party aggrieved, it may be reverfcd by a majority of the divan. In re- ligious matters, the country is governed by a mufti, and the do£^ors of the law. Egypt being now efteemcd the grannry of Conflan- tinople, its great importance occafions it to be governed with more lenity than any other province within the Ottoman empire; and what is a privilege enjoyed by very few of the Turkifh fubje£ls, the people have an inheritance in their lands. The taxes alfo are mode- rate; infomuch that, except what the viceroy and hit creatures may illegally extort, the whole revenue does not amount to a million of our money ; two thirds of which iie annually fpent within the kingdom, ABYSSINIA, NUBIA, and A N I A N. 'P 1: ABYSSINIA, or Ethiopia Superior, compre- ■*■ *■ hending Nubia rnd the coaft of Abbex, is fituate betw^rn 20 and 41 degrees of eaft longitude, and between 6 and 25 degrees of north latitude; ' being upwards of one thoufand three hundred miles in length, and one thoufand one hundred in breadth, It is bounded on the north by Egypt and the defart of Barca; on the eaft by the Red Sea and the Indian Ocean ; on the fouth by Anian and unknown parts of Africa; and on the weft by other parts un- known. Here are many high mountains of a pyramidical form, and in the middle of the country is the lake Dambea, whence iflues the river Nile, which, after taking a circular fwcep, run> north, and enters Egypt. By this river, and a multitude of fmaller ftreams, the foil of Abyflinia is fo much enriched, that it yields plenty of corn, rice, fruits, cotton, fugar, and the fineft flax. Gold-duft alfo is found in the rivulets, and mines of filver and copper are very frequent. The animals are camels, oxen, (h»ep, and the Arabian horfes fo much admired, which are bred in the paftures of this country. The air in the valleys is excelllve hot, but the mountains cool. The hotteft fcafcn is when the fun is on the oppofite fide of the equator, and fhines ob- liquely upon them; for when it is vertical, the clouds intercept its rays, and the rains then fall. The Ethiopians are of a good datura. Their com- plexion is a deep black, tnd their features are much more Abyssinia, &c] GENERAL TRAVELLER. '^7 more agrecible than thofo of the negroes, having neither fuch thick li|)s, nor fl*t nofes, I hey »re faid to have a great deal of vivaciry, and (o be of a docile difpo- fllioM, I'he better fort arc cloathed in veils made of filk, flutts, or cotton, after the manner of the Franki in Turkyj but the poor peo|)le go ain'oft naked, uling only a fmall piece of /kin, or coarfc lluft", wrapped about their loins. Their bread is thin cakes, baked upon the hearth as they are wanted. They cat all forts of flefh ainioft, as the Europeans, except that of fwine, and fuch other meats as were prohibited to the Jews. They alfo refemble the latter in the manner of kilPng their meat ; and they abflain from things llrangled, and from blood. The poor people live chiefly upon milk, butter, cheefe, roots, and herbs. The meat is brought to the tables of people of con- dition In earthen dilhcs; but they ufc no other trenchers than their bread, and are totally unacquainted with knives and forks. Their meat is generally cither boiled or dewed) and pcrfons of rank are fed by boys with fpoons, they confidering it as below their dignity to perform that office for iheiufelves. The country "launding in honey, their common drink is mead «. mctheglin. They have alfo liquors rr.ade of wheat and ticc, and their princes drink fome wine. But in the making of this liquor they arc unfkilful, though they htve the fined grapes in the world. On which account, you cannot make their princes a more acceptable pre- fent, than fome bottles of European wine. Notwithftanding the country afFords fome excellent materials for manufacture, their fabrications of this kind are extremely few and mean. Of linen they hardly make any, nor do they (land much in need of it, as ti.ey ufe neither table linen nor fheets. They lie on caipets or mats, as in other hot countries. The Jew* are the only weavers and fmiths amongd them i and as f'>r other handicrafts, fuch as carpenters, taylors, flioe- makers, every man breeds up his children to his own employment. Thofe feveral trades, like the cafls or tribes in the Ead-Indies, live feparately, and never intermix with any other. The filk, fluffs, calicoes, linen, and carpets, ufcd for furniture or cloathing, they receive chiefly from the Turks, who in return for their merchandize take the gold and emeralds of Abyflinia, with fome fine hc'fes. When the Portugucfe lirft found the way to this ci,jn'ry, the fhores of the Red Sea were open ; but now the Turks keep fo ftriiS a guard there, that it is diflficult for any other people to have accefs hither. Travellers enumerate in this country nine provinces, every one of which has a didinfl fovereign, that ac- knowledges the king of Abyflinia as fuperior lord. This prince, however, has loft much of thi* power and prerogative which he formerly prjoyed. The ' throne is confidcrcd as hercditavy, but primogeniture not always obl'erved. As foon as an emperor is crov ncd, he orders all his collateral relations to be fccured in a fortrefs fituated on an almoft inacceflible rock, where they remain in perpetual imprifonment. to prevent them fn ii raifing any f;.Jtion by which they might afpire to the crown. According tu the Portugucfe, '.vho vifited Abyflinia foon after their paflir .; t'le Cape of Good Hope, in the fixteciiih ccniu y, the emperor was llilcd Tfellcr John, or Prelbyier John, which title fome imagine was given him, htcaufe he was tho high prieft, a> well as king. By his own ful'jci'ls, ti.)Wever, he Ls generally (lilcd Nejjus, or, to dillinguifli lin i from tlie inferior princes, who have the fame title, Negaftlu Negaftht, which in their language figiiihcs king of king*. No money being ufcd in the country, the emperor's revenues are paid in kind. Pi partly military. The leliginnof theAbyfliniansis a mixture of Judaiftn andChridianity, approaching much nearer to the Greek than the Latin church. Tney keep both the Jewifh and Chtidian fabbath, and each of them more in the manner of a fad than a fedival. They circumcife their children on the eighth day; and it is faid that the operation is performed on females as well as males, the former having in this country, ,-is in fome others of Africa, an excrefcence on the genital parts, not natural to thofe of the fex in more temperate cli- mates. Circumcifion Is performed by an old woman, but baptifm only by a pried. If it be an adult pcrfon, the pried anoints him with oil, and then going to fome river or ppnd, by the aflidance of two deacons, he plunges him three times under water, repeating the baptifmul exprcirion. The deacons then bring the perfon out, and he is anointed again ; after which he is cloathed with a white garment, and over it a red ved, denoting purity and regeneration. The perfon is next brought to the church, where after receiving the communion, he is prefented with milk and honey, and difmifled with the pried's benediiSlion, When an infant is baptized, it is only gently dipped, and fprinkled with water. They acknowledge the fame books of Holy Scripture with us; and, it is faid, have a more corredl copy of the Septuagint than is to be met with in Europe. They admit the councils of Nice, Conftantinople, and Ephefus, with other provincial councils, received be> fore that of Chalcedon; and befide the Nicene canons, have eighty-four others in the Aiabic language, which the emperor Condantine fent to Jerufalcm, in the year 440, and were carried thence to Rome, in 1646. This book contains the fynod of the apodles, faid to be written by St. Clement; the councils of Ancyra, Czfaren, Nice, Gongra, Antiochia, Laodicea, and Sardis, with the a£ls of- three hundred and eighteen fathers ( :1 ! M 12R T 11 MOD R N [Akkica. father) I a UtMik of the fjhb.illi, with a decree and canun of priiance \ to which ve annexed their gen lituigy, |iruy(r>, aad officer for Che coniniunion, ttii They life the Nicriic Creed, but have not that of the apol\lei, 1 hry believe the real prefence in Ihc facrament, but not tranfubnantiation. I'hey make general coiifefTion) only, and rtceivo »i general abfo- lutioni. They Teem to think that the foul ii material, yet believe in iti immortality. The emperor i^ fupreme in all cccKilinicil, at will ■I civil caufc«| and both the clergy and laity are under the jurifdi£tioii of the king'i juil^ci. They have however a metropolitan, conlccratrd by the patriarch of Alexandria, who confers orderi oi) the clcii;y, amongft whom there i\ no order fupciior to priefls. The monks do not live in cloyfters or convents, but every one in his hut, forming a kind of village near fome church, where they perform divine fervice in their turns. Their principal churches were built at firfl after the model of the temple of Jertifalem, with a fandluary and outward court) but they 'I>'iaii>j|i i and wh«n in travelling, ihey com* near • church, tlicy will difinount from their niul* or horlV, tu walk pjfl it on foot. In this country, the great men arc allowed ni mm/ wives as they picafc, bit iliu pour arc reltiiwUd to one. 'I'hey bury their dead without a cofKn, and have mi partii ul.ir lunerjl fervice, Ily w.iy of mouinin|:, tho relations and fnciuls of the dvccalcd wear tattered cloathi for fome time. Nubia, which is conliguoui to Abyflinia, an I com- prehended under the general name of Llliicpia, is bounded on the north by tgypt and th« dcf.itts of Rarcai on the ead by AbylTiniai on the fuuih by Lower hthiopiai and on the welt by /aara. It it f.id to bu four hundred leagues in length, and twu hundred in breadth i but writers are much divided in ei^ird both to this and other circumftancet, not only rcfpciSliiig Nubia, but every inland country of Africa. According to the mod credible accounts, this laigo tra£t is occupied by a number of princes independent of each other} but both the country and inhabitants much refcmble thol'c of Abyilinia. Of the country of Aniaii, which lies upon, or near, the Kaflcrn Ocean and the Red Sea, we can fay no- thing with certainty; fome travellers rrprcfeniing it as an uninhabitable defart, whilfl others, on the contraiy, aflirm, that it is populous, and abounds iu all the nccefl'aric^ of life. N U : I'l ZANGUEBAR, comprehending the countries of Majadoxa, Melinda, Mombaza, Terra de Raphael, Qiiiloa, Mozambique, and Zofala, is fituate between 34 and 40 degrees of eaft longitude, and between the tropic of Capricorn and 4 degiees of north latitude; being bound :d on the north by Anian j on tlie eaft by the Indian Ocean j on the fouth by the Terra dc Nat.iij and on the weft by Mjnomiigi, and unknown parts of Africa. The moft northerly province is that tf Magadoxa, the chief town of which, bearing the fame ,;ame, is fituated at the mouth of a cognominal river, in 3 degrees odd minutes of north latitude. The people here, as in moft of the adjacent country, are in alliance with, or fubjeft to the Portugucfe. The territory however is very barren, affording hardly any merchan- dize or cattle, except a good breed of horfes, which they fell to the I'ortuguefe, who difpofe of them again to the Arabs. The inhabitants are a mixture of Pagans, Mahometans, and Chtiftians. Their com- plexion is black, with flat nofes, and thick lips, like the reft of the negroes. The country of Melinda lies fouth of the equator. The chief town is in two dc-tecs and a half R. of north latitude, on an iftand at the mouth of a cog> nominal river, and is the capital of the Portugucfe dominions in this part of the world. Notwithflanding it^ fituation in almoft the center of the torrid zone, it is exceeding pleafant, fruitful, and healthy, being frequently refrefhcd with fhowers and fine fca-brcczcs. The city of Melinda is large and populous, well built, confidering the fituation, and has a good har- bour, commanded by a ftrong citadel. The Portu- gucfe have here fcventeen churches, and nine religious houfes. They have alfo warehoufes, flocked with all forts of European goods, which they barter with the natives for the produce of the country, viz, gold, elephants teeth, (laves, oftrich-feathcrs, wax, and drugs; fuch as fenna, aloes, civet, ambcrgreafe, and fraiikinccnfc. The country likcwife produc's rice, millet, fugar, and fruits; and the Pottuguefe, befide what they ufe, export thither great quantities to their other fettlements. According to the computation of fume travellers, the inhabitants of the city of McliiiJa, and the little ifland on which it ftands, do not amount to lefs than two hundred llioufand fuul:^, grot p>ut of them ('liriftians. The n..tiics have a kiii^; of tlivir own, v,'ho is a Mahometan ; but many of the j eoplo are CArrRAtiA.] GENERAL TRAVELLEU. 119 are pii|;ani, aiiJ ill of ihem in fomc fubjcillon to the l'urtuj(ucfo. The country of Qiiiloa lici to tlic louthwarJ of Melindai in capital city, of the fame name, being in 9 dcgrcM oJd rniiiulci foiith l.itituilc. Tliu I'drtugiicfc poflefled thenil'clvci of it on their difcovcry of thii coaft, but the fituation beinu unhealthy, they quitted it foon after. The king of the country, however, like the other princei of the coal*, is tribut:iry to them, anJ payi them an annual tribute in gold, amounting to the value of a hundred thoufand crufadoi. This part of the country produces excellent fugar- canei, but the Portuguefe Jo not improve them, re- ceiving every year great quantities of fugar from their couiiirymen at Braiil, who come hither for (laves. South of Qiiiloa lies the country of Mozambique, the chief town of which is fituatcd on an idand at the mouth of a river of the fame name, in 15 degrees fouth latitude. Here is a good harbour, defended by a cita- del ; the; town regularly fortified j and the idand on Which it (lands is near thirty miles in circumference, And very populous. It contains flit churches, and feveriil monaAcries, the monks of whikh make many profclytes in the neighbouring country. Here likewil'e the Portuguefe barter European i;oodi, for gold, ele- phants teeth, and (laves ( and their (hipping to and from India call for rcfrcftiments. As the country produces great herds of cattle, the I'ortuguefc kill beef, and fait it up, either fending it to the Urazilt, or felling it to Huropcan traders. Mong.ile, an inlaid town in this country, ii alfis garrifoned by the Portuguefe ) and here is their chief llapic for European goods. The gold they receive in exchange from the natives, is found near the furface of the earth, or in the fandi of rivers, there being no gold mines wrought in Africa, The city of Mombaza, in the country of Mozam> bique, lies in 7 degrees odd minutes fouth latitude. Of this the Portuguefe took po(re(rion when they firC- vifited the caft coaft of Africa. Being forced to eva- cuate it afterwards, they repeated the coiiqued, and have here at prefent a confide-able trade. In Zofala, to the fouthward of Mozambique, the Portuguefe have alfo fome little fettlements) and indeed they engrofs almoU the whole trade of the coa(t, as far as the tropic of Capricorn. c R R I A. CHAP. I. . 0/ tht J!tuat!on—^air—-pri(luct, CAFFRARIA, or the country of the Hottentots, including the Terra de Natal, is fituate between 34 and 35 degrees of fouth latitude, and between 15 and 35 degrees of eafl longitude; lying in the form of a crcfcent aboiit the inland country of Mononiotapa, and bounded by the Southern Ocean on the ead, wed, and fouth. It is a very uneven country, abounding in mountains, of which the three moft confidcrable lie near the Cape; the Table Mountain, of a very great height, the top of which is always covered with a cap of clouds before a (lorm ; the Sugar-loaf, fo named from its form ; and James Mountain, or the Lion's Rump, There are no navigable rivers, but many fmall flreams, which render the valleys exceeding fruitful. On the weft, the fca forms the bay of St. Helena, with that of SoIJania, and the Table-Bay; and on the eafl, Hcrmofa-Bay, and the Bay of Brafaj but wc meet with no harbours, though the country has a Tca-coad of upwards of a thoufand miles. The valleys would be cxcelTive hot, were it not for the Southern Ocean, whence the wind blowj almoft on every fide, and frequently with fuch violence as is felilom experienced in other feas. Hardly a week is free from thofe hurric.nncs. The Dutch fometimes lofc whole fleets as they lie at anchor, and they arc forced to moor their guard-(hip with Arong chains, No. II. . inftead of cables. Thofe frequent timpcfta, however, render the country very healthful, and fccni to be even necclTary for preferving the air in a falutary (late j for if there happens a calm of any confidcrable iiirationi all the people are affedcd witi: the head-ach. The gardens belonging to i,' , VJutch Eail-Indla Company, at Cape-Town, afford a ftrikinc; proof of the favourable temperature of the climate for vegetation, and the great fertility of the foil. Here are the mofl: delicious fruits of Afia and Europe, growinrr within fquares of bay-hedges, fo high and thick, as to pre- vent them from being much injured by the ftorms of the ocean. It appears, however, that fruit-trees are not indigenous in the climate, but have been planted here by the Dutch, who imported them either from Europe or Afia. The fame may be faid of the vines, which were introduced by a German, and arc now fo plentiful in the country, that hardly a cottage in the Cape fettlemcnt but has its vineyard, which produces wine fufficient for the family. Fruits and plants of all forts are obfervcd to be both much larger and fweeter than thofe of Europe. The head of a cabbage, at its full growth, weighs thirty or forty pounds; and the head of a colliflowec as much. A potatoe weighs from fix to ten pounds. The melons, which are raifcd without glaiTes, or hot-beds, are not only larger than thcfc of Eu- rope, but wholefomer, and of an exceeding fine flavour. All forts of grain are fowed here, except oats and lentils, and they arc reaped in the month of December, k k The r J30 THE MODERN [Arr.icA. belly with their bills and talons, and entirely fcoop out the bowels/ CHAP. II. Of thi pafons cf iL- HoUa:li)tt--hahlti—-dt(t- '—j'whnmiug—aiufica-5-^trnffic. • huntii The manner in which the farmers here tread out their corn, is as fullows. They make a circular floor, about thirty, forty, or fifty foot diameter, with a compofition of clay and cow-dung, which binds very hard ; aiid round it they ere£l a mud-wall, about bread high. This area they cover with flicavcs, beginning In the middle, and lay- ing them in concentric circles, till they reach the out- fidc. They then turn in about twenty or thirty horfcs, which a man, furniflied with a long whip, drives round till the corn be trodden out, and the draw be- come as fine as chaff. They afterwards clean the grain, and carry it into their granaries. This method they prailife with great fccurity, as it feldom raini here from the middle of O«3ober to the middle of March. Tlie country adjacent to the Cape produces a great I they have taken great p.iins to darken their tawny corn- number of plants, unknown in other parts of the | plcxion with greafe and foot. The women arc much THE men amongft the Hottentots arc generally under the middle ftaturc, but their bodies arc proportionable and well made. They are feldom cither too fat or too lean, and hardly ever deformed by nature. Their heads, however, as well as their eyes, are rather of the largeft. They have thick lips, ex- ceeding white teeth, and black fliort hair, like the negroes; whom they tcfemble much in colour, after world, and appears to be well worthy the farther in- veftigation of botanifts. In this country are to be found lions, tigers, and leopaids, with almoft every quadruped of the ravenous kind. When the firft of thofe animals attacks a man or bcaft, he immediately knocks thim down with his Icfs than the men, and are remarkable for a membra- nous flap hanging over the pudenda. Flat nofcs being reckoned a mark of beauty, tlicy never fail to break and comprcfs the cartilage of that part of an infant, foon after its birth. In fummcr, the men bcfmear their heads with hand- paw, and deprives them of all fenfation, roaring at fuls of greafe and foot mi.\ed, to which the duft ad- the fame time in the moft hideous manner. His ftin bones, it is faid, after they are dried, arc as hard as flint, .-r.d are fjmetimes uftd by th,; natives to ftrike fire with. The elephants in this part of Africa arc very large : their t:cth weigh from fixty to a hundred and twenty pounds, and their ftrength is prodigious. They are generally from twelve to fifteen foot high, but fomc of them, we are told, much more. The female is con- hering, a clotted covering is formed, an excellent prefervative, in their opinion, from the heat of the fun. In the winter, they wear fl.it caps, made of the fltiii of cats or lambs, half dried, which they tic with a thong of the fame leather under their chins. They likewile wear a kroffc, or mantle of ftin, over their flioulders, which reaches to the middle, and being faftened with a thong about their neck, is open before In winter, they turn the woolly or hairy fides next fiderably lefs than the male, and has its breads or dugs their backs, and in fummer the other. The fame between the fore legs. Their ufual food is grafs, ! covering ferves a man for his bed at night, as well as herbs, roots, and the tender twigs of trees. They for a winding-flieet and coffin when he dies. If he pull up every thing with their trunk, which ferves them as a hand; and with this they fuck up water, ftctd of a flieep-lkin, his mantle is made of the fkia be a captain of a village, or chief of his nation, in- which they afterwards empty into their mouths. The rhinoceros is here alfo to be met with. This of a tyger, wild-tat, or fome other that is held in greater cftecm. In general thofe mantles reach no animal is Icfs than the elephant, but of equal, if not j lower than the waifl, but fome tribes wear them as greater firength; and with his rough prickly tongue, i far down as their legs, and others fo long as to touch he licks the fltfh of the bonca off his prey, J the ground. Another native of the country is the elk, which is j They wear round their bodies a girdle, from the about five foot high, with a fine flender neck, and a : foro part of which a fquarc piece of (kin, about two beautiful head, not much unlike that of a deer. j hands brer.dth, hangs down. The porcupiii. is very comr.ion. It is ufually near Every man alfo hangs about his neck a groafy pouch, a foot long, thick in the middle, and tapers to a point i in which he keeps his knife, pipe, and tobatcoj with at each end. Its whole body, except the belly, is a little piece of wood burnt at both ends, as a charm covered with fliff quills, which it immediately erefls i agaiiift witchciaft. On his left arm he wears three on receiving any dillurbance. I large ivory ring', to which he faflens a bagof provifions The fci.ilibingfem, as the Dutch call it, feems to when he travels. He carries in his right hand two be ;.n animal peculiar to Caffrarla. It has obtained its name from the extremely ofi"enfive fcent which it emits on b.ing purfued. We arc informed that even the dogs will dtfcrt the chace, rub their nofes, and howl, as foon as the intolerable effluvia of this animal have readied their noftrils. There arc in this country eagles, called dung-birds, which, if thoy find an ox or cow laid down, will attack it in great numbers. They make a hole in its 7 fticks, one called his kirri, which is about three foot long, and an inch thick, blunt at both end;; the other called his raccum ftick, about a foot long, and of the fame thickncfs. This has a fharp point, and is ufed as a dart to thruw at an enemy or wild bead. In his left hand, he lus another dick, about a foot long, fadencd to the tail of a fox or wild cat, which ferves him as a handkerchief to wipe oft" the fweat. Befidcs thofe afcoiitremcnts, the men wear a. kind CAFFRARfA.] GENERAL TRAVELLER, »3i kind of fandalf, mti; of the raw hide of an ox or' cxccfilvj iiidflicacy, th^y nbflai': fr m fwinc's fltfli, clcpliaiit, when the/ arc ohli^jed to travel over iloiiy , with tint of feme other animals, ami f.om fifli that ground. Some have alfo bulkiiis to pref-Tve their i have no fcales. They rather devour their meat than legs from bufltes and briars; but ufually they have no | eat it, pulling it to pieces with their teeth and Jiands, covering cither on the legs or thighs. | and difcovcrin^ a canine appct.tc. The women wear caps, with the crowns a iiuli; j They cat no butter, though they make a good deal railed, made alfo of eats-fkin, and tied under tliuir | of it for the purpofc of anointinjj thcmfclvcs, and chin. This covering they for the mod part wear ' felling to the Dutch, who probably ufc it only night and day in all fuafons. They ufe two krofles [ for their fhipping. In making it, fney put the milk or mantles, one over the other, made of (kin, fome- i into fome fkin, made in the form of a foldier's knap- times bordered with a fringe of raw leather} and thofe j fack, the hairy fide inwards. Two pcrfons taking garments being only faftened with a thong about their necks, their bodies appear naked down to the middle. They have an apron larger than that of the men, and a covering of the fame nature behind. Round their legs they wrap thongs of half-dried fkins, to about the thickncfs of a jack-boot, which encumber them fo much, that they walk with difficulty. Women of figure, inftead of (heep-fkin, wear that of a tyger, or wild cat. They alfo have a pouch about their necks, in which they carry fomething to eat, whether at home or abroad, with their pipe, tobacco, and dacha; the latter, which is an herb of an intoxicating quality, like tobacco, being ufed in the fame manner by both fcxes. The principal ornament?, both of men and women, are brafs or glafs beads, with little thin plates of glit- tering brafs and mother of pearl, which they wear in iheir hair, or about their ears. Of each of thofe kinds cf beads ftrung, they alfo make necklaces, bracelets for the arms, and girdles. The elegance of drefs being fuppofed to confift in the quantity of ornaments, their arms are fometincs covered with bracelets from the wrift to the elbow An ornament pecriiar to the men, is the bladder of any wild bead they have killed, which is blown up, and faftened to the hair, as a trophy of their valour. Both men and women powder themfelves with a duft called bachu ; and the wom?!i fpot their faces with a red earth or ftoncj a praftice that adds to their beauty, in the opinion of the natives, but which, in the eyes of Europeans, renders them much more frightful and iliocking than they naturally arc. hold of it, one at each end, they whirl it round, till the milk is converted into butter. The butter-milk, without any cleanfing or ftraining, the Hottentots drink mod greedily. 'I'heir common drink is cows milk, or water; and the women fometimes drink ewe's milk, but this the men never touch. Since the arrival of the Dutch amongft them, it appears that they arc become very fond of wine, brandy, and other fpirituous liquors. Gluttony and drunkcnncfs arc their favourite vices, and in thefe they indulge themftlvcs as often as they have opportunity. Like the Tartars and Arabs, they frequently remove their dwellings for the conveniency of fre/h water and pafture. They encamp in a circle formed by tv/enty or thirty tents, and fometimes twice the number, con- tiguous to each other; within the area of which they keep their fmallcr cattle in the night, and the larger on the outfide of their camp. Their tents arc maJc with (lender poles, bent like an arch, and covered with mats or fkins, They arc of an oval form, the longed: diameter being about twelve or fourteen foot, and the fliorteft ten. The height in the middle is near fix foot, and at each end little more than three. In the former of thofe parts is a flullow hole, dug in the ground, about a yard diameter, where they make their fire, and round which the whole family fit or lie night and day, in fuch a fmoke, when it is cold, or they are .drcfling viifluals, as to any European would be intolerable; there being ftldom any other vent than by the door, which is always in one of the ends. Such a circle of tents or huts as has been dcfcribcJ, is called All infants, foon aficr their birth, arc laid in the by the Hottentots a kraal. iun, or by the fire, and rubbed over with fat or butter mixt with foot, to render them of a deeper complexion ; and this cofmetic operation they afterwards perform almod every day in their lives. The furniture of the tents confifts of littb more than a few (kins of wild beads, with an earthen pot in which they boil their meat. The only domeftic animals they keep are dogs, which, in refpciSl of their The Hottentots arc not more clcan'y in their diet fpecies, are no lefs ugly than their maders, but ufeful than in their dicfs. They prtfer the entrails of cattle, and fome wild bcafls, with very little cleaning, to the red of the flcfl , and t.it their meat almoft raw. Their food however confilts ducny of roots, herbs, fruits, or milk ; for tlity (tidom kill any of their cattle, unlcfs at a fedival, contenting themfelves at other times with Inch as die either of difeafos or old age, or what they happen to take in hunting. In a fcarcily of food, they will eat the raw leather that is wound about the womcns legs, or the foles of flioes ; nor is it a pr.ii3ice in driving, as well as defending their cattle. The few wants of the Hottentots, and their brutal indelicacy with refpe£l to diet, by exempting them from the mod powerful incentives to labour and cxer- cifc, conduce to render them the mod indolent people on earth. They will almoft rather ftarve, at lead cat dried fkins. orftioc-foles at home, than hunt for their food; yet when they do apply themfelves to the chace, or any other exercife, no people difcovcr more aiflivity. Thofe amonpft them who can ovcrcon.c their natural tiiKommoii, however hornlile, to feed on the vermin j Inzinefs fo far as to enter into the fcrvice of the that breeds in their mantle;;, a fpecies of infcft much larger here than in Europi.. Notwithdanding their Europeans, arc found to be not only diligent, but re- markably faithful. In their intercourfe with their own tribes, i:! 13a II E M O D R N [Africa. tribes, they src rcpuitd hofpitablo ami generous. [ being placed clofe by him, in the middle of the atTumbly They hardly ever c.it a piece 01 tiie vcnifon they have | Tor the reception of the expcflcd vifitor. W'hrii the catched, or Jrinic tlicir beloved dianii alone, but call litter arrives and is feated, the old dt.puty piilts plenti- in their neighbouis to pnrtakc of the entertainment as far as it will go. When a wild bcaft appears in the neighbourhood, the whole kr.i.il or village afleniblcs, and dividing thcn-.fclves into fmall parties, funound the place in which they fuppofc he is concealed. As foon as he is difcnvcred they fet up a general cry, at which the friphtencd .inimal endeavours to break through and fully upon hiiTi, accompanying the difcharge all the while with a verbal addrcfs. The hero who is the objeiS of the ceremony, rubs the honourable tribute into his (kin with great eagernefs, having fii ft feralchcd olT the grcafc with his nai'- . A pipe of tobacco Is then lighted, which is fmoa.^cd fuccenively by all the people prefcnt, till nothing remains in the bowl but afhes, which are ihewed by the deputy upon the hero. efcape them. If it piovc to be a rhinoceros, an elk, | who receives thcin with the fame fatisfa£lion that he or an elephant, they throw their lances at him, darts '■ had teftificd at the former mark of their efteem. The and arrows on luch an occafion not being fufficient for the purpofe. If the bcaft be not killed at the firft ceremony being ended, and the neighbours havini; coi^irratulatc'd hinl on his advancement to this high difchargc, they rcpc.-.t the attack, and load him with | honour, they difperfe, and return to their refpedlive their fpears ; and as he runs furioufly at the perfons | tents. The champion afterwards fallens the bladder who wound liini, thofc in his rear follow him clofe, , of the bead which he had killed to his hair, and is till they provoke him to return, after which he is again afTailed by the party towards whom he formerly tended. Repeating their attacks thus on every fide, the creature is for the mofl part deftroyed, without any of the people having received the fmalleft injury. In the attacking a lion, a leopard, or a tyger, their darts and arrows are employed ; and therefore they begin their engagements at a greater diftance than when they charge an elephant or a rhinoceros. The creature has generally a number of darts and arrows upon his back before he can approach the hunters, the pain occafioncj by which e;icrcafing his rage, he flies at the affliilants with the grcatcft fury ; and while the perfon he att.icks nimbly avoids the onfet, the others purfue him with their ipcars, and compl<.;j the viiSory, henceforth univerfally eftcemed abraveman, and abcne- faftor to his country. His wife, or wives, if he has more than one, ate not fufFered to approach him for three days after this ceremony, but are forced to ramble in the fields. At the expiration of this period they re- turn to the tent, where they are received with great joy and tcnderncfs. A fat (heep is killed, and their neighbours invited to the feaft ; during which the prowefs of the hero, and the honour he has obtained', are the chief fubjcil of their converfition. Of all the wild beads on which they feed, they edccm the flefh of the tyger the nioft delicious. Whe.i an animal of this fpecies is killed, the whole kraal partake of the repaft, and the perfon who furnilhcs it meets with a double fliare of praife, as he not only lioi; akes to flight with many poifoned ; rids the country of an enemy, but affords them » luxurious entertainment. The manner in which a Hottentot fwims is peculiar. He Hands upright in the fca, without touching the Soiiietltii weapons in his flefl), avoiding inftant daughter only to expire by a flower death. Elephants are frequently taken in traps or pitfalls, without any hazard, Thofe animals being obfcivcd ■ bottom with his feet; and with his head, neck, and to go in great companies to water, following in a file (boulders above water, he moves fader in that element one after anothei, and ufually taking the fame road, ' than an European can walk. unlefs difturbed ; the Hottentots dig pits in their ] Their fmiths not only fafhion their iron, but melt path about eight foot deep, and four or five broad, it from the ore. Having coUeiflcd a heap of iron- in which they fix fharp flakes pointed with iron, cover- j dones, which arc found in f .'' d parts of the country, inj; the mouth oi the pit with fmall flicks and turf, ' they put them into a hole in the ground, heated and that it may not be difccrniblc. One or other of the prepared for ihcir purpofe. They next make a fire aniinalj generally falls with his fore feet into this am- ! over the dones, which they keep up till the iron bufh, when the flakes piercing his unwieldy body, the | melts. When (his has happened, the melted iron more he druggies to extricate himfelf, the more (irmly ' runs into another hole, a little lower than the firft, is he fixed. The reft of the herd obfcrviiig the mif- and after becoming cold, ii broke in pieces with dones. fortune of their companion, abandon him, whilft the The workmen again hcit tliofc pieces in other (irea, Hottentots poflcfs themfelvcs of their prey. Cutting ' and beat them with dones, till they are fhapcd into the boily into pieces, they carry home the fle(h, which the heads of lances, dart?, and fuch weapons as they they vor.-.cioudy devour as long as it lads. The rhino- ; ufe; for they harlly ever form any other utenfils, ccros and ell: are frequently taken in the fame manner. ' but arms of this metal. The Hottentot who kills any of thofc animals, or a ' A people fo unacquainted with luxurif-s, cannot be lion, leopirJ, or tyger, fingly, has great honours and fuppofed to have much traflic. 7 hey barter cattle privileges conferred upon him. At his return from an ! with the Hollanders, for nine, brandy, or tobacco; exploit of this kind, the men of the kraal depute one and fuch of the clcpliants teeth as they do not ufe in of their kniors to congratulate him on his viiSlory, , making ornaments for tlienilelves, they for the moft and dcfire that he will honour them with his prefencc. part exchange with the I'ortugucfe and other Euro- The rcqucd being granted, the deputy returns to the 1 pcans, who touch at any pait of their coad : for of kraal, r.d f;t5 h:mfelf down upon his heels, a mat i this commodity they All very little to the Dutch. ,' C H A l\ Caffkaria.I bENEkAI. TRAVFT.r^^ alil/'mt-J-'jndun 4U '^^fiia:Jf'^t^n^ituJe I ana rn tne roorh 6f plates or napkins, they content thetnTelves with the nafty corners of the mantles which they wear. The Hottentots allow of polygamy, but feldom have more than three wives at a time. It is death amongfl; them to marry, or lie with a firft or fecond t iufin, or any nearer relation, A father feldom gives his foil more than two or three cows, and as many flieep upon his marriage; and to a daugl ter, either one cow, or a couple of fheep. There being no fortunes amongft them, they match only for love; and it is not uncommon for the chiefs to intermarry with the faniilies of ihe ponrcft men. A widow who marries a fecond time, is obliged to Uife a joint of one of her finjcrs; and a fimilar am- No. 12. can be found. Here depofitiag alive the innocent vi£lim, they ftop up the mouth of the den with ftoncs or earth ; or if no fuch cavity can be found, the infant is either tied to the lower bough of a tree, or left in fome thicket to perilh. Sometimes thofc defcrted in- fants are found by the Dutch, who carry them home to their houfes, and caufe proper care to be taken of them, not omitting to imbue their minds with the prin- ciples of religion. Such hov\'ever is, for the moll part, the difpofition of thofe expofed females, that un knowing their extraflion, they renounce their Chrifii- anity, throw off the European habit, and running away to fome Hottentot camp, affiime the fhccp fkin mantle, and conform themfelves to all the cuftoms of the people from whom they are defcended. L I The I T M in hi 11 E MODERN f A wo I r * mT .. , 1 <« . i. ^^ •.« -i .. til tl « fri •«' tj ft.' it. etc f "'; pa! »'V per' pui Soi we; to 1 wit tOj one unl pat ill \ ing tliai anil bud i\ s.<> I :> . >. •/, y. ;; . ,!•.<' I! i i ■/. ■' ,-V 1' '•■ •.♦ ; ;. more he druggies to extricate himfelf, the more firmly ' is ho fixed. The reft of the herd obfcrviiig the mif- \ fortune of their companion, abandon him, whilft the > Hottr'itnts podcfs themfelvcs of their prey. Cutting ! the body into pieces, they carry home the flcfli, which ' they vorr-cioudy devour as long as it lads. The rhino- ; ceros and elk are frequently taken in the fame manner. ' The Hdttentot who kills any of thofe animals, or a ' lion, Icopird, or tyger, fingly, has great honours and ' privilege? conferred upon him. At his return from an ' exploit of this kind, the men of the kraal depute one I of their fciiiors to congratulate him on his vidlory, < and dcfirc that he will honour thcni with his prefentc. The requcft being granted, the deputy returns to the i jcraal. and fvts himfelf down upon his heels, a mat I runs into another hole, a little lower than the firft, ani after I"'coming cold, is broke in pieces with dones. The workmen again heat thofe pieces in other fires, and Ic.it them with dones, till they arc flxaped into the heads of lances, darts, and fuch weapons as they ufc; for they harfly ever form any other utcnfih, but arirs of this metal, A people fo unacquainted with luxuries, cannot he fuppofed to hiiv'! much trartic. They barter cattle with the Hollande.o, for wine, brandy, or tobacco; and fuch of i!)0 clcpliauts teeth as they do not ul'e in making oi, 'laments for thcnilcl"<3, they for the mod: part exchan:;c ivitl; the I'ortugucfe nnd other Euro- peans, who tojch at any part of their coaft : for of this commodity they fell very little to the Dutch, CHAP. Caffraria.] GENEkAL TRAVELLER. »33 CHAP. II r. Of marrtages—the txfo/mg of fimali infants, and of fupirannuatid perfem— but tali— retipon-^govtrnmcnt —war— —Dutch Jdltementi at Cope Town, A YOUNG Hottentot hardly ever commences a treaty of marri.-ige withnut the approbation of his father. When this is obtained, thofc two pay a vifit to the father of the intended bride, with whom having fmoked, talked of indifferent things for fome time, the father of the lover communicates the- occafion of thr interview. The pcrfon to whom the propofal is made, after confulting his wife, immediately returns an anfwer. If the dft'cr be rcjefled, the vifitors retire without more words | but if approved, the young woman is called, and told that a hufband is provided for her. From this determination flte has only one way to appeal, which is by preventing the bridegroom from confummating the nuptials t ': next night. If {he fhould prove vi^orious in that encounter, the lover abandons the enterpiife, but if fhe has been overpowered, flic muft fubmit to the match, in fpiie of the tnoft invincible averfion. The day after the confummation of the marriage, the young hufband kills a fat ox, or more, according to his circumflanccs, for the wedding dinner, to which the friends of both parties rcfurt, with compliments of congratulation. The entertainment being ready, the men form a circle in the area of the kraal, and the women another; the bridegroom fitting in the middle of the former, and the bride in the centsr of that compofcd of her own fex. The pri'ft then enters the men's circle, and pifles upon the bridegroom, who joyfully rubs into his fkin the defcending evacuation. Going after- wards to the female circle, he confers the fame favour upon the bride, till his (tore is e.xhauQed; repeating all the while his bed wiflies for the happinefs of the new married couple. The .meat is then ferved up in earthen pots, be- fmcared with greafe. If any of the company have been taught the ufe of knives by the Europeans, they will perhaps ufe them on this occafion; but the greater part has recourfe to their fingers ; and tbey devour the meat as voracioully as fo many dogs. Sca-fliells, without handles, ufually ferve them inftead of fpoons ; and in the room of plates or napkins, they content themfelves with the nafty corners of the mantles which they wear. The Hottentots allow of polygamy, but feldom have more than three wives at a time. It is death amongft them to marry, or lie with a firft or fecond coufin, or any nearer relation, A father feldom gives his fon more than two or '.hrec cows, and as many iheep upon his marriage; and to a daughter, either one cow, or a couple of fheep. There being no fortunes amongft them, they match only for love; and it is not uncommon for the chiefs to intermarry with the families of the pooreft men. A widow who marries a fecond time, is obliged to lofe a joint of onu of her fiiijcrs; and a fimilar am- No. 12. putation is performed for every new hufbiind wi h whom flie may coiitraiSl. tiihcr n ?,n or wom.-n may be d!- vorced, on (hewing fullicicni caufe befoic tlic kraiil ; but the woman is not permitted to marry again, though the man is allowid that liberty. A Hoitentot never being nirftcr of a hut or tent till he marries, unlcfs his fat.icr dies and leaver him one, the firft object of a new married couple is to provide a habitation; and till that is done, they are entertained in the tents of fome of their relations. The care of fupporting the family refts almoft entirely on the wile. She fodders the cattle, milks them, cuts out the firing, fearches every morning for root* for their food, brings them home, and drcfTea. them, while the lazy hufband lies indolently flretched in the tent, and will hardly give himfelf the trouble of getting up to eat what his laborious wives have provided for him ; of whom the more he has, he is always propor- tionably the more flothful. If at any time he deigns to attend his cattle in ihc field, it is conddcred as an afl of condefcenfion, and is exceeding rare; nor is it much oftener that he will go a-hunting with the men of his kraal, to bring home a piece of venifon, or a difh of fifli, The wives, however, arc not permitted to intermeddle in the bufinefs of buying or Idling, this being the fole prerogative of the jr.en. When a woman is delivered of a live fon, there is great rejoicing. The firft thing they do with thj child, is to daub it all over with cow-dung. They next lay it before the fiie, or in the fun, till the dung is dried; which being rubbed ofF, they wafh the infant with the juice of certain herbs, laying it again in the fun, or before the fire, for a little time. They after- w.\rds anoint the child from head to foot with butter, or (heeps fat melted ; an operation which is repeated almoft daily through life. If the woman has twins, and they are girls, the father afkt leave of the kraal, to expofc one of them, either upon pretence of poverty, or that his wife has not milk for them both j and in this requeft the men ufually indulge one another. The fame barbarous cuftom of expoling the female infant is praflifed, when the twins are a boy and a girl ; but they always preferve the boys, though they happen to have two at a birth. The devoted infant is carried to a diftance from the kraal, to be expofed in a cave, or hole in the earth, the haunt of fome wild beaft, if ftich a place can be found. Here depofitiag alive the innocent viflim, they f}op up the mouth of the den with ftones or earth; or if no fuch cavity can be found, the infant is either tied to the lower bough of a tree, or left in fome thicket to perifh. Sometimes ihofc deferted in- fants are found by the Dutch, who carry them home to their houfcs, and caufe proper care to be taken of them, not ornitting to in.bue their minds with the prin- ciples of religion. Such however is, for the moft part, the difpofition of thofc txpofed females, that un knowing their extrnftion, they renounce their Chridi- ...ity, throw off the European habit, and running away to fome Hottentot camp, afTume th; fheep- fkin mantle, and conform themfelvcs to all the ciiftoms of the people from whom they are defcended. LI The 1 ■ 1 1 1 ■ ! 1 ^1 «34 THE MODERN [Africa. The .dine inhumanity which the Hottentots fo fre- quently dii'cu cr ill relpcilt of their female infants, they likcwife betray in the horrible trciiinent of their ugcJ parents. When the father of a family has become fuperannuated, he is obliged to allign over at' his efFciSts to his elded Ton, or in default of fuch, to his nej^t male heir. The latter the., crei^s a tent or hut in fome unfrequented place, and having alTemblcd the mui of the kraal, acquaints tii ti with the condition of his relation, defiring their confent to expofc him in the dilfant hut i a requeft 'hich is ufually granted 'With great readiiicrs. On the day appointed for the removal, the heir gives a great entertainmrnt to all the people in the neighbourhood, who having taken a for- mal leave of the aged perfon, the latter is tran.'ported to the hut, where his fate is eithsi to be (tarved or devoured by wild brafts. When a peifon dies a natural death, he is immedi- ately bundled up in his (hecp-fkin mantle, and thrown either into the cavity of a rock, or the den of fome wild bead in the neighbourhood, the digging a grave on thofc occafions being a method uf buii.il never prac- tifed. The corpfc is fcldom permitted to remain above ground more than fix hours, and is attended to the cave by all the men and women of the kraal. At the death of a father, the elded fon is entitled to all his podlOions, the younger children depending fo much upon the latter, as ta be hereditarily his fcr- vants, or raihcT (laves, unlefs he plcafcs to cnfrancliile them ; and even the fublldcnce of the mother is entirely dcprndent upon him. So late as the beginning of the present century, it was qiicdioned whether this people had any ideas of religion, but it is now gencrnlly admitted that they be- lieve in a Supreme Being, crcitor of heaven and earth, whom they flyle Gbunji Gounja, or Gounja Ticqiioa, God of Gods. To this fupreme God, however, they pay no adoration, alledging in apology for their con- duft, that their fird parents grievoufly offended him, in confequence of which he curfed them, and all their poderity with hardnefs of heart. The principal objciS of their worfhip is the moon, which they hold as an inferior vifilile god, and a rcprcfentative of the high and invif jle. On the fird appearance of the new and full moon, they alTemble in great niimbcrs, dancing wildly, clapping their hands, didorting their bodies, and heroes aniongd them without their fharc ,-,f reli- gious woiihip. To the memory of tho'e the naiivfi dedicatr, fields, mountains, woods, and :ivci's; and when, at any time, they happen to pafs by fuch cnn-* feciatcd objc£ls, they ufTer a diort prayer to the genius of the place,, fometimca dancing and clapping their hands, as in the adoration of t^c moon. Bcfidcs the objcfls above-mentioned, the Hottentots worftlip * fpecics of fly, abwu' the fizo of a liorner. Whenever they obl'ervc this infc6t approach llicir kraal, they immediately aflcmble round it, finging and dancing all tho while it C(>ntinucs amonjd tl.cm, and likewile drcwing over it the powder <■! buchu, called by bota^ nids fpiraam. I'hey drew the fame powder on the lop of their huts, and over the v^hoIe area of the kraal, in tedimony of their veneration for the adored fly; to which they alfo facrifice two fheep, as a thankf- giving for the favour dienn to their kraal, believing that fuch a vifit prefages great future prcfpcri:y. If the infeft fliould happen to light upon a tent, they ever afierwaids look upon the owner of it as the fa- vourite of heaven, and pay him extraordinary rcCpciSt. The bed ox of the kraal is immediately facrificed, to tedify their gratitude to the little vsingcj dcliy, and to honour the faint he has been plcafed thus to didin- guifll. To this reverend perfon the entrails of the bead, in their opinion th: choiced part, with the fat and the caul, is prcfcnted ; and the latter being tvvifleil as a rop", the Hiliit ever afterwar.ls '.vfars it like a collar about his neck, day and night, till it ii^;> oft; anointing his body likewile with the f.it oi the facrifiti.', as iong as it lads. On many other occafioni, tlicy alfn kill ficrifices, and 'have ftdivals; as on dcdroying wild beads, obtainiii;; a viflory, the recoveiy from a fit of fickncfs, and the like. The Dutch, we arc infoiir.cd, have lint fevcral di- vines to the Cape as mifTionnrics, who have iifed every endeavour to convert this favage people from their ido- latry, but hitherto without any cfTcil. The Hottentots are divided info Icvcral nations, «acb of which has its king or chief, called hoiuiuer, whofc office devolves upon him by hereditary fucccfllon. He has the power of making peace or war, and prcfiiies in all their conncili and courts of jiillice j but his authority is faid to be limited, and lie can ditcr- inine nothing \yiihout the confent of the c.iptains and howling in a hideous manner. Regarding this | of the feveral kraals, who feem to be the Hot- planet as the arbitrcfs of the weather, they never fail tintot fcnr.te. The captain of each kraal, whofe to fupplicate its favour when that is unfeafonable. J(fuichl at::e, cry they, / falute yon, you are welcome : Cheyapia kaka chor'i mngua. Grant us pajjurc for our cattle, and plenty of tniik. Such invocations they fre- quently repear, dancing and" clapping their hands all the while, and at the end of every dance, crying, Ho, ho, ho, ho ! Thofc extravagant orgies arc con- tinued, with prodrations on the earth at intervals, the whole night, and part of the next day i exhibiting rather a fcene of wild and fantadic diverflon, than of religious ceremonies. They likewife pay divine honours to a powerful evil fpirit, whom they confider as the author of all the calamit' s in life. Nor arc the fouls of reputed faints office is alfo hereditary, is the chief magidtate of his department in time of peace, and their leader in war. With the head of every family, he determines all ci/il and criminal ca ifes within the kraal; fuch didercnrti as happen betweei. one kraal and another, and m.r.teri of general concern, being determined by the king and fenste. Formerly their chief magidraics wercdn'in- guifhcd only by finer fkins, with a greater variety of beads and glittering trifles ; but the Dutch, fincc tiieir arrival at the Cape, have prcfented to the kinw oc chief of every nation of the Hottentots in alliance with them, a brafs crown, and to the captains of each kraal a brafs-hcaded rane, which are now the b.idgt* of their refpeflive oflices. la Caffraria.] GENfeRAL TRAVELLER. '35 In their councils tl.e king fits on liis hccL in the , they train up bulls or oxrn to run upon the enemy, center, and the capt.iiiis of the kr.ial r.mged iiroijuj I which thofe animals do with great fury. him in the fame pofturc. At \ut acccilion, it i. faiii, he promifes to obfervc thuir national cuftoms) and the facne engagement is entered into by the chiefs of the kraal. Neither the fovcrci^jn nur the inferior magif- tratc« are allowd any rcvciuic, the rcfpcft of the pejple being all the dillinflion they enjoy. Being entirely dellitute of letters, they have no written laws, but are guided by ancient cufloins, from which they hardly ever devii.te. Murder, adultery, and robl 'y, they conDanily punifh with dcatli; and if a perfon is fufpcfled of any of thofe crimes, the whole kraal join in apprehending him. A day or two after his feizure, he is brought to trial, when the people forming a ring, and fitting down upon their heels, the criminal is placed in the center, the witnefles on both fides are heard, and the party fufFered lo make his defence. The cafe being then confidered, the 'captain collefls the fufFragcs ; and if the prifoncr be condemned by a majoiily, he is executed on the fpot. The captain firft flrikes him with a truncheon which he carries in his hand, and then the rcfl of the judges falling upon him, drub him to death ; after which the corpfc is buried in the ufual manner. Civil c;'.ufes, alfo, are determined by a niajn.ity of voices, and fatisfailion immediately ordered to the in- jured pirty, oiit of the goods of the other. From thofe Hocific s there lies no appeal to a fnpiii.ir court ; the king and his council, as has been faiJ, intcrpofing only 111 mailers of general concern. No pcrlon pon'eflcs any private property in land, the whole country being a common, where they feed their cattle proniifcuoufly, moving from place to place, for the fake of water or frelh paftuic, as neccfTity le- quircs. Each nation, however, has its refpe(Sive ter- | yards, and farms, extending far into the country; ritnry, the limits of which frequently occafion war Mclufive of two other great colonies or fettlements, amoiigO thofe that are contiguous. liut encroach- one calhd the Stcllenboft colony, and the other the When they march intj the fieid, eveiy man fullowi his captain, the chief r.f his kraal. The feveral com- panies, with horrid cries, advance to the charge at the command of their chief; and when thofe in the front I'ave (hot one flight of irrows, they retreat, and make room for tbc rear; the different files alternately relieving each other, till all their milTive weapons are difcharged. The fkill of the general condfts chiefly in managing his bulls, which never charge each other, but fpend their whole rage upon the men, whom they often gore i.i a dreadful manner. When the fate of the battle is determined, the tumultuous noife that accompanied the onftt, is repeated by the conquerors, who often purfue their viftory with great flaughter. If one battle proves not decifivc, it is ufual far fome neigh* bouring power to interpol'e, and make up the quarrel, fo that a war is feldom continued (or any length of time. The chief town it the Cape of Good Hope; belong- ing to the Dutch, extends from the feaihore, along the Talle J'alU}. It contains u\ wards of three hundred handfomc houfcs, laid out in fpacious ftreets, having courts before them, and large gardens behind, with all the regularity and neatncfs common to that people. The houfes are built of (lone, but thatched, and feldom more than one (lory high, on account of the extreme boifterous winds, to which they are fo much expafed. At a little diftancc from the town, in the fame valley, the Dutch have a fort or citndi.1, built of ftone, in form of a pentagon, for the defence of the landing- place. The garrifon confirts of about two hundred men, and here the governor and principal officers of the company have their refpeiSive apartments. Beyond thofe limits are feveral beautiful country feats, vine- nieiits ot this nature are not always the only caufe of contention. Stealing each other's caiile likewife often proves the ground of frefli quarrels, For though every kraal punifhes theft amongft theinfclvcs with death, yet it is confidered as an adl of heroifni to rob thofe of another nation ; at lead the people are fo back- ward in giving up the oflFcndcr, as frequently to pro- voke hoftilities. One part of the armour of the Hottentots is a lance, refembling a half-pike, with the head or fpear of it poifoned ; which they fometimes ufe as a miflive wea- pon, and at others to pufh with in clofe fight. Their bows are made of iron or olive wood, and the firing, of the finews or guts of fome animal. Their arrows are bea.ded and poifoned likewife, when they engage cither an cinmy, or a wild beaft not intended for food j and in the fame manner they ufe a dart of a foot long, wiiirh they throw with remarkable dexterity. When they have fpcnt their rtii/Iive weapon;, ihey havp re- courfe to ((i;)i( J, fslditti (niking a difcharge in 'am. Eveiy .ihle li.iJiH diaii !« « (iihllnri ind polT (Ted of I frt uf lueh arms is hus been dtkribtJ. Th«^ are all \nttM\i, himI (inKh^r ndiFfrs nor private men h.ive any Drakenfleigh or Waveren colony, occupying between one hundred and two hundred miles to the northward and eaftward of the Cape, but intermixed with the Hottentot nations, whoftill graze their cattle Upon fuch lands as are not enclofed and cultivated by the Dutch. The trade of the Dutch Company at the Cape is very cnnfiderable. They have here between five and fix hundred officers and fervants, befides flaves, who amount to near fix hundred more. The country was difcovered by the Portugucfe, and was once in the pofleflion of the Englifh, who left it for St. Helena. The country of Mataman or Matapan, which lies between the Hottentots on the fouth, and the Portu- guefe colonies, in Congo, on the north, is an unin- habited coad, where no European nation has yet found it worth their while t- fettle colonies, or even fa<£tories. With refpeifl to Monomotapa and .Monomugi, 'he in- land countries between the Hottentots on the I'outh, and the Upper Ethiopia on the north: all wc know of them Is, that the natives are Pagan negroes, and fometimes bring their gold and elephants teeth to the bordering nation on the coaft, the inhabitants of which purchafe thofe articles, and barter them again I %m i i ^iiy, I ii(il()|h l!ll< rMtllliy |i(iiillif»i Urge elephants, with the Europeans for fpirits, cloathing. arms, am- Ihty h»vc iitti |i»| U^Hintl l)l# KM «f Hm\l\li ♦I*''", but munition, utenfils toys, &c. ' BEN- ^■-<^^ >.^6 + HE MODERN [Africa. BENGUELA, ANGOLA, CONGO, and LOANGO. tt: TliESE countiics are fituate between the equator and Cipe Kcgro, which lies in i6 degrees Touch Ittirudc; and moft of them are under the do- minion of the Portuguefe, -/ho have great numbcrt of negro princes fubji:£l to them. The chief towns are Benguela, St. PUul de Loando, St. Salvador, and Loango. The latter of ihofe, which is the larger (hnds 9' • five miles from the fea- fidc, in 4 d^, ' L- i^tes fcath l.ttitudc. Mod of the towns , »^/>i;^ 1' the negrois, confifl: of a few huts, built • vi .'■.'.' .d reeds in an irregular manner i and as C'. r.oc h, • 1 particular king, or fovcrcl^n, his palate is ufuiil' . ftingaiflicd by a fpre.iJing tree before his door, under which he fits, and coiiverfes, or adminiflers jufiice to his fubjeiHs. The towns arc generally in or near a grove of trees, moAly of the fruit kind ; and bcfides being very popu- lous, ftaiid fo clufe to each other, that the country has the appearance of being one continued city. In the territory of Loango, the huts are made of cane, wattled with twigs, and covered with leaves or branches of trees. They confift for the nioft part of two or three rooms, the iiinermoft of which is al- lotted for the ufcof the women. Each houfe has ufu- ally a fmall yard, likewife cnrlofcd with cane, and wattled, Thofc belonging to their great men, and the principal merchants have walls about ten or twelve foot high, forming a walk eight foot wide, which reaches near forty paces from the hoiift'?, but has fo many windings,, as to encreafu the fpace it occupies, at lead to five times thatdiflance. The inhabitants arc as black as any of the negroes, but more civilized, efpecially in Congo, where the Portuguelo fathers have converted many of the natives to Clirifiianity, and introduced amongft them the Eu- ropean drcfs, on which account they now take nfr great quniuitics cf imported m^nufaiTlures. In other parts, the common drefs of both fexes is only a piece of cloth about their waifts, which is tucked in futh a manner, that the rorncrs hanging down on the left fide, almoft touch the ground. In the mornings and evenings, the women likewife wear a piece of cloth about their Ihoul- ders, which the men do not; and the former have about their ancles, as an ornament, a large brafs ring of five or fix poimJs weight. This cumberfome ornament, to which hov.-evcr they arc prodigioufly attached, feems to be slmoft the only difliniSIion they enjoy; for they do all the fervile offices both within and without iloors, as planting, reaping, carrying burdens, drefling the provifions, combing and twilling their hufbands hair into various forms, and painting their bodies. When thry arc not enj;agcd in thcfe v.orks, they ufu- ally employ themfelves in making mats. The diet of the better fort ot pefiplo is rnofily fowls, and flewcd fifli j but thofc of the lower clafs live chiefly or. rootv, and canky; a kind of bread made of Indian 7 corn, beat fitiall, which they mix with fome rools^ and boil it in dumplins, They have great numbers of plantain and banana trees, as well ai of palm trees ; and of the Utter they not only iiialce wine, but extriA oil from the fruit, which they ufe in diet, and for anointing their bodies. Pine apples are in great plenty, and there are feme limes ; but 1I0 lemons, and the oranges are generally ill tailed. The cettoA tries in' Loango grow to an extraordinary fize. When any of their great men, or Europeans, have occafion to travel, they are conveyed in a hammock, faflencd Co a long light pole, near the end. One man before, and another behind, will in this manner carry a luHy perfan feveral miles without rellingi but on a long journey, fix men are ufually employed, who re- lieve each other in their turns. The people of Loango, inllead of money, ufe pieces of cloth made of filk grafs, about the bignefs of a Iheet of paper. They eftimate our goods by an ima- ginary coin, a cullom which it is probable they have borrowed from the Portuguefe manner of counting by rccs. A piece of blue b.ifcs is valued at a thoufand, a piece of painted callico at fix hundred, a fmall keg of powder three hundred, and fo of the reft. Of the laft mentioned arciclr, with guns, anabafcs, brafs- pans, and pewcer bafons, chey are exceeding fond ; as they likewife arc of knives, fmall black beads, and coral, to make bracelets. Men flaves are purchafed from three thoufand fix huiulrcd to four thoufand of their fiandard coin; and women, boys, and girls, in proportion. The trade of all thofc countries confills chiefly in (laves, of whom they bring the greateft part eight or nine hundred miles, from the territory called by them j Poamboc, which is probably the fame with Ethiopia. I But they fretjuently make excurfions nearer home, in ' ftrong parties ; and where they meet with any people I who are not formidable by their numbers, or the ; llrength of the government under which they live, I thofe they drive befor; them, like cattle, to a tr.iding , town, and fell them for flaves. It is remarked, how- I ever, that the flaves thence obtained are far lef» hardy I and laborious than thofe of Whidali, or the OolJ I Coaft ; and they arc generally great lovers of bi.uiJy I and tobacco. Both in Congo and Loango there is a great number of kings, or petty fovercigns, moft of them in Icmc kind of fubjeflion to the Portuguefe, who permit them however to govern thsir own people, according to the cuftom of their country. Though thofe territories be fituated under and near the equator, they are not fo cxceflive hot as in higher latitudes. One reafon affigned for chis obfervation is, that their day never much exceeds twelve hours in length; and the other, that the- rainy fcafon continues four months, vi*. from June to September indufive. At this time, the rivers, particularly of Congo, overflow the level country, like ^!M COINRA.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. •37 like (he Nile, •inJ render it no left fruitful than Egypt. Even of the higher lands hardly a fpot is now uncul- tivated, owing to the agricultural improvements in which the natives have been innru£)ed by the Portu- guefe, who have alfo introduced amongd them Euro- pean corn, as well as fruits and plants. Except in fome parts of Angola, whither ihe Englifh and Dutch refoit for flaves, the Portuguefc monopolize the foreign trade in nil thofe countries. They bring thence elephants tcctli, wax, and peltry, confiding of thf (kins of buftjloes, and other beads; for which ihty give the natives cotton and linen cloths, or (light flufTs, tools, utennis, tobacco, brandy, and other (pi- rituous liquors. They fometimes purchafc flaves and teeth, even with the gold wliich they bring from lirazil i whither, it is faid, lliey do not (end lei's than a hundred thoufand (laves annuallv, from this co;i(t, and Cojiie other fettlemcnts in Africa. Negroes, wc are informed, arc purch:ifcd cheaper at Angola than in Guinea Proper ; the price uf younj blacks, in their piinic, being under three po • ids a head, and th.it of boys and women in proj^jrllQ. Ths treatment of thofe iniferable creatures on i':'. ly.ige, however, is (hocking to hum.inity. The -e kept upon no better loud tlian horC'j beans ; feven oi eight hundred of them arc packed in a vcdll together; and during almoin the whole time of the palTagc they art forced to lie double. a u N E A. CHAP. I. 0/ tbi fituathn—feafons—air^ ntgrmS'^moIaUoil —» ' vegttatle produci'^mintrah^ammah. GUINEA Proper comprehends Benin and the Slave Coaft, the Gold Coaft, the Tooth or Ivory Coaft, and the Grain or Pepper Coaft. It is fituate between 15 degrees weft, and 15 degrees eaft longitude, and between 4 degrees 30 minutes and 10 degrees 30 minutes of north latitude. It is bourded on the eaft by unknown parts of Africa, on the fouth by Congo and the Atlantic Ocean, on the weft by the fame ocean, and on the north by Negroland. In this country, the wet fcafon continues for the itioft part from April to September inclufive, and during the other months of the year the weather is dry and hotteft, though the fun is then farther from them than during the former period. Neither the commencement nor the duration of the wet feafon, however, arc the fame .nt all places on this coaft, but between the vernal and the autumnal equinox they generally have exceftive rains, attended with violent ftorms of wind, as well as thunder and lightning. The winds at this time blowing from the fouthward, and there not being any harbour u;ion the coaft, if a velTtl then happens to be in thofe fcas, fhe is inevitably driven upon the coaft, unlefs fhe can ftand out to fca, or get into the mouth of the river Sierra de Leon before the approach of the florm. But even in the fair feafon, it is difficult going aftiore on this coaft, on account of ilio furf, or fwelling of the fca, which conftantly prevails. The inoft violent ftorms or trova- does, are in July and Auguft, during which time the fea rages to fuch .1 degree, as to have the appearance of fire, whence the failors call it the turnings, and at this time it is almoft impofTible to go on Ihorc, During the hot feafon, the winds arc here periodical, blowing from midnight till one or two in the after- noon, from land ; after which, fliifting to the fouth- ward, they blow from the fea. No. 12. The ri rs ■ lis country falling from high moun* tains . ■• far ' the coaft, they form very rapid tor- rent' .. ill 11.; wet feafon overflow the valleys, the CO" -n.. :>( which is, that the air is frequently tainted ■'■ thick llinking fogs, extremely prejudicial to the hc.th, cfpccially of thofi; who have not been ? "^cm"' to the climate. The rivers being made ci. ) jy the rains, arc not any of them navigable, from the river Sierra de Leon, in the weft, to that of Benin, or Formofa, in the eaft; but they abound, as well as the feas, in variety of good fifh. The face of the country is agreeably diverfified with mountains and valleys, woods and open fields. The hills are adorned with trees of an extraordinary height, and the intejaccnt plains are rich and cxtenfive, pro- ducing cor'i and fruits in great abundance. Numerous villages lii.ewifc contribute to delight the eye of the j beholder ; but the m»ft pleafant and fruitful part of i the country -s that about Fid.i, or VVhidah. The negroe: have flat nolts, thick lips, and ftiort I woolly hair; with black eyes, the white of which, as well as their teeth, form a beautiful contraft to their complexion. They are generally under, or about ! the middle fize, and well made; nuny of them, how- I ever, have exomphalos, occafioned either by the vio- . lence of ignorant midwives at their birth, or by ftrain- 1 ing in their infancy to walk ; for they are never taught to go upright, but creep upon a mat, on all fours, I till they have ftrcngth to ereift themfelves; notwith- ftanding wliicli, it is rare to fee any of them diftorted. The women, for the moft part, arc not near fo well fhaped as the men ; and their breafts are remarkably pendulous. The habit both of men and women, is a paan, or cloth, two foot broad, about the waift. Thofe of the better fort have another cloth of confiderable length thrown over their flioulders, yet fo as their arms, legs, and a good part of their bodies, appear naked. Their ornaments confift of a multitude of rings, or bracelets, of gold, ivory, or copper, according to their circum- l^ances, worn on their arms and legs, with necklaces M m and \ i n. li 138 THE MODERN [Africa, and girdles of coral, one over the other. The plait- 1 The miiKul.i ol' the to'jiilry arc iron, copper, and iiig iind aduriiiiii; their h»ir, is a principal ubjtd of ; filver) but c( gold it Jucj lut appear that any mine* their attention; clpecijlly cf the women. The hair ' arc opened. In the rainy lealoii, the water pouring of fome of the negroes is longer than that of others, ; in torrents from the hilli, waflKs .iway the earth, and and many of th*ni by hnn^^ing weights to it, endeavour to pull it out of the natural curl ( after which they furm it into diflerent f.ifliiuns, with little thin plates of gold or copper, or with beads, coral, and (hells, that nialcc a glittering appearance. Some of the wo- men throw over their heads a veil, to fkrecn them from the fun, and fomc of the men wear capsj but many of them ufe no covering on that part. The negroes arc reputed not to want feiife, but they exercife it chiefly in (ludying to defraud one another; a difpofition which the example of the Europeans has tended rather to confiim than eradicate. Abandoned however as they may be, in refpetft of morals, thry are exceeded in depravity by the malattoes, who are a mixed race, the olFspring of female negroes by £u- rope.in men. Thofe arc of a tawny complexion, pro- undirmiiie^ pieces ol ruckt, uliicli beii.^ can ivd down by the dream, thvcuvitici where the gold lay concealid, are r.Hnetinus difcuvcred, .iiij l.ti^c piece.i of the mine- ral picked out ; but much the greater (juantily is waHicJ down in lii:le particles, no bi^'ger than fand, tlio former being called rock-gold, and the other gold- dull. When the rains abate, the nativvs rcfort to M the little (Ircanib, and gathering the fand in heaps, put it afterwards into tubs, where they walh it in water from the adhering earth. The llreams where the gold h found, arc i;;eiicrally at a diftance from the fea ; (o that the greater part of it is brought down by the negroes at the fcafon for trading, when they expcifl fomc vcfl'els up in the coaft, Amongd the animals of Guinea, the elephants aro fo numerous, that more ivory is brought from the fefling the religion of the P^rtugucfe, from whom they country called the Tooth Coatt, than from any other are deiccnded, but retaining many of the Pagan fuper- ftitions. The men are dtuiikcn, lewd, thievi/li, and treacherous to the laft degree; and the women prodi- tutcs to both negroes and Pluropeans, to the former privately, and to the latter publicly, without any ihamc or reftrainr. They are obferved alfo to be ex- tremely covetous, yet fuca inaftcrs of their temper, as to be undirturbed by any viciflltudc of fortune. By a happy infenfibility of mind, they will appear contented, even when they have been unexpefledly deprived of all their cfTeiSls j and they will fing and dance after lofing a battle, vith as much apparent triumph as if they had obtained a viiSory. Some parts of the country abound in rice, millet, maize, or Indian corn ; but there arc others fo fubjcft to floods, that the foil produces little except rice. Sugar canes grow to great pcrfedtion, but arc not much cultivated. Here are alfo yams and potatoes, which often fervc the natives inftead of brc.id. The palm-tree is more plentiful in Guinea than in any other country, and ihc cocoa-nut tree likewife very frequent. The latter, however, the naiivcs do not p'lt to fo many ufcs as in the Eaft-Indics; con- tenting ihemfelvcs wilh drinking the milk of the cocoa part of the woild. Here are found lions, tigers, leopards, wild ho^:^, jackalls, wild dogs, foxes, and crocodiles; but no camels, though this fpecies be fo numerous to the narthwaid of the livcr Niger. Several kinds of wild cats arc frequent, one of which is the civet cat. A fpct.'i'.':i of civet is here, alio yielded by a moufe. No animals arc more common than monkeys. Some of ihcm ate faid to be near fi«a foot high, and fo bold that they have been known to attack a man. Another fort is about two foot high, perfectly black, and wilh white beards, in this part of Africa is alfo found the camclcon, of which tra- vellers affirm that it frequently changes its colour. This animal is lefs than a rat, but confiderably larger than a me ufe. Some naturalids have imagined that it can liv.' feveral month;, and even years, without food ; but the mod probable opinion is, that it fubfii^s, as fome other creatures, on flies; and that it catches them with its tongue, which is almoft as long as its body. The flefli of their neat cattle is hard and dry, and their fliecp, which are covered with hair, make very indifferent food ; yet both are lu!d at a high pricea The cows yield very little milk, and that of an exceed- when it is young, or eating the nuts when they arc I ing b.id quality. The goats, hogs, and deer, are the ripe. j beft meats which they ufe. The horfes arc fmall, and The Guinea pepper is found on the Grain Coaft. 1 ufed fometimes for the faddle, as well as alTcs; but It grows on a flirub, in long, flender, red fhells or neither they nor any of the cattle arc employed in the pods, fcparated into four or five divifions. Pimento, I draught, or to carry burdens; all commodities, where tir Spanifli pepper, alfo grows here; as docs a very | the conveniency of water carriage cannot be had, which lliong fuit of (linking tobacco, which the negroes is rarely obtained, being tranfported on porters backs. fmokc, but is fo ofjenfive that a European can hardly bear the fjncll of it. The timber trees here are generally of prodigious maj-nitudc, and of the trunks of them, hollowed, the natives form their e::noes. Some kinds have a very beautiful grain, ftreaked red and yellow, and particu- larly adapted for tables and cabinets. The capot- trie, v.hich bears a fort of cotton, is alfo in great pli nty ; nnd many other trees, not only admired for their be.iuty, but rcn^arkabk for the fllade which they afford. 6 to the diffance even of a hundred miles. Here arc ferpents of various kinds, and fome of enor- mous dimenfions. Thofe of the fmaller fort frequently enter the houfes and bedchambers, where the negroet fuperftitioufly cherifh them with greater tendernefs than they fhew to their own children, paying them even divine honours. A fpecies of large ants is particularly troublcfoirt to the inhabitants, who are allbpcftercd with gnats and flics, fo frequent in all the hot countries. The Guinea.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. M9 The The country al>iiunJ.i in variety of lea and rivcr- Afli, which arc the principal fiippnrt of the F'lropeani, ai well as of the natives on the coalt, and dinipenfatc not only the bad quality, but the dearnelii of flclli. CHAP II. Of ihi govirHrmnt»^loun^—armi-^rilighn'''-miirrwgi' •—dijtiifii-—pbyficiaui'—J'Hntrali, THE government of Guinea is divided amon;; a few fovercijjns, who enjoy untimiicj power, ami have unJcr ihcm a great number of petty princes, whole tributary dominions exceed not the bounds of an Knglilh puriOi. Kich of the great munarchi is held in the hitiheft veneration by his rerpc the devil out of their country. On this occafion, fevcn days are fpcnt in feafting, Tinging and dancing, and from the beginning to the end of thofe rejiticing';, threat liberties arc taken with impunity, 'i he cli^htli day in the morning, they hunt the devil out of every town and village, with horrid cries and howling) at the fame time throwing dirt and dones after the invifible fugitive. When the men have continued this frolic as long as they think fit, they return home, where they find the good women employed in cleanfing and fcowering all their pots and utenfils, from the impurity which they are imagined to have contracted by fatan's redding amongd them. Befides this fediral, they have another after harveft, when they facrifice to their gods for adording them the fruits of the earth. In contraiSling marriage the confent of a woman is never afked, but flic is difpofed of, when a child, by her parents, with whom (he lives till (he arrives at years of maturity. When flie is brought to her huf- band's houfe, (lie is allowed to drefs, and live at her eafe for a few days) after which (he is obliged to dig, plant, and fow the ground ) the men leaving to their wives the work of the field, as well as the bufinefs of the houfe. There feems to be very little difFerencc in this rcfpcifl between their wives and flavcs, Thofe that GuiNrA.] GENERAL T R A V I'. I, I. V. I». »4» ihAt live tUi cafud amnnsft ihrtn, nre ih? wrlvf) of' Thafa JifurJcrj or< urctiScJ i.ut onl/ to ihr exreinva the mctchant", nrul (i(horiin;i), wlij lun" no l.iiu!i to licat of llic il.iv, niij tin ci.IiIj'vjI'i «■( ilic iiirhr. Iir m miiiurr. kvcry nmn hii« uiiii wile cillcU liii liolluni, , ilic limit puirid Itf^i, thai arilii Irum ih" (alt-marllii-'ii dcclicait'd to hit hutifliulJ goJ, who ii rxcmpieJ fro:)i j near the fen, riiJ ihv mouihi of the riven wlure the working, iiiiil cnjnyi iiiiiity otKir |irivil'jpi in tlio life- ' riiSlorici tra ufually fituauj i niul nlfij lo llic iHluvia time ol her hull'uriJ, 'I lie biiliuin i< ul'u.illy I'ome (inicceJiiig rruiii iliu fifli, wltKh tli; lutivci I.7 in rnt young beautiriil navv, will) wliom the hufljiiiid ii . upon the tlioic, Diit whaicv r bu the c.iiifi', it is under an oblig.iiion ul' I'jitiiJing liiii time on the night | cert.i'n thiit ^o^v FiirnprniK, cfpcrially fuch ni coma of hii biftli d.iy, uiid of the day of tliu week ap- ' from the lenir''r"''i "' tnldiT cJiiMutci, tli ipo a dan- propri.itcd (o the fcrvico of thrir j^odi. There ij alio unous fit of (nkiicfs on ihrir arrival 111 lliii coiiiitryi •nulhcr wilt- rxcmptid from labour, who ii rnlrullcd , and that many tall a facrilKc to the nioiLi.l qu ility of with the dirc(^tlun r' all dumcftic afFairi, Of thufe two j the nir, lilhrr nimoft imnicdi.itriy, ur in the fpaco wive« the liull>aiiJ i> 1 xcecdiii^i; jealous, uiij ciidcavoui't of funic moiithi. toltccp them to hiinlcll) but with rcfpcil to thecond i£t The only phyfuiain amongft the natives of Ciuinca ofthetcd, he is not fu much concerned. The conmion ' are the priclh, who wo may well liippulc aic extremely peoplu wink at their wives beftowing favours on other [ ignorant of the nuilital art. Wlitn their prefi rjjitions men, and will ciien promote an intii^u^, piovidtd 1 fail of fucccfs, they hiivc rccoiir(c 10 facrilicei and they cm trake any thill- by It. ' charms ; and flioul.l tlicfc likevvife not piovo ( fFrdnal, The unmarried wonuii on the coaft take very great , fo grtat is the confulcncc of the prcpic m iIioi'l' men, libertici, which is confidered as no reproach, nur evnr | they impute thu mifcarriage to any thing raih.r tliaii prevciitii tlicm from Retting hudiandnj but this is to] the unfkilfuliicfs or inability of the priull. be unilcil^ood only of the inferior people. Some females i Ucfulcs txcrciruijj the o.lice of ph) fKiaii, tlio prlcfts are purclufed by almoll every townfhip, 10 fupply the I likcwifc a(fl in the caj-aciiy of prophets and conjurers, necelliiics of unmarried men Thofe women have I profelTiiig infallible powi- if "he ufc of tliarma and in- huts by the way-fulcs, where they entertain fuch as I cantations, to the no ''nail influence of their authority, arc willing to become their gallants, for the value of as well as the incrcafe of their emolument among the a farthing. This iiirtitution i'i regarded as an aifl of ; fupcrftitious people, public charity, ir fo niuch that it is ufual for rich | When a man of figure dies, his wives, his relations. ncgio woir.cn to bei|ULath a legacy at their death towards cUablifhinj fucli cndowmi nts. Notwithflaiiding the coall of Uuinea is found fo unhcaliliful to Muropcan conAitutions, the natives have very few difii nipcrs. The moft fatal to them (laves, and depciiJcntr;, immcJiattly let up a ilifiiial howl. His wives fluve their hea'N, cover with a patched garment of rags fuch p.irts of their bodies ai are ufuully cloathcd, and colour the rell with a wliitd paint or clay; tuiiiiiiig about the flrccts, and bewailing of any is the fmail-pox, which fwccps them away like : thcmfolvcs in the moft difmal manner for fevcral da) 3 a pellilcnce, as h jrnerally the cafe in hot climates. The venereal dift'.niper is likewife fatal to a great many, fe.v .fr.ipin(» it amidft the number of pniftitutcs with fucccrtivcly. Whilft the corpfe remains unburicl, all the rcLitionr, friends, and neighbours attend ir, and join In the la- which tha c iintry aboMruisj nor have the natives < mentations of the family. On thofe occafions, it ii hithrrto Uatnco ;miv m (hod of cure. Worms are | cuftomary to bring with them prefents of gold, linen, here an epidemical diltiinperi not fuch as afiliil people liquors, fruits, and other eatables. The corpfe bcirr in ih'' flomaih and b.iwcls, but a Ipecics which lodge richly habited, is put into a co.T:n, with a confi.lcrab.e between the (kin and tii" fleln, and excite intolerable I quantity of gold, coral, and other valuibli.' eff-fh-, fui;:ibIo pain, till thry are dra.viioutj an operation which to the circumfianccs of the ilcccafcd. The body is carried foinctimei lafis a month, or linger. to the burying-jilacc, preceded ly a gitat number of As foon as the I, cad of tlv worm has pierced the ' mufkctecrs, who fire their guns, while fomc of the tumour, which it laifcs on the lurfaco of the body, and the animal is come cut a little way of itfelf, they endeavour to c.xtindl it by wiiiJing it about a IWck a little at a time; dcfifling from the op'.ration when it proceeds not with cafe, and renewing: it another day, till the whole is cxtradlcd. If the worm breaks, the patient fuflers great pain, cither from its totting in the body, cr exciting an inflammation in another part. Some of the negroes r.re inlelted with nine or ten of thofe worms at a time, and the Europeans are not | year oil fV,e aiiiuverfary of the funeral, when the ex attendants walk behind in a difordcrly manner, roarinj forth their lamentations with the utmoft exertion of their voice. When the corpfe is interred, moll: of the company rclurn to the houfe of the dcceafeJ, where they dall and drink for fcveral days, Inflead of a tomb, the negroes ufually buiM a lioiife, or plant a garden over the grave, and :,t Axim, tiiey fet images of clay t:;'on it, which they wa(h every entirely free from them, They are generally a yard in length, and fonietiinLs double that quantity. A canine appetite is alio reckoned among the difcafcs of the Guinea negroes, which has betn imagined to jiro- cccd from drinking exceflively of palm wine. The dilenfcs to which Ivuiopeans arc cliitny lubjeil on this coalt, arc fever?, dyfenteries, and the cholic, * No 17 pence r> IS great as at the tin.^- of the interiHcnt. Whc!! a king is buried, :■' ii cuftomary to kill his flavei, aiid his bofium, in urd-ri to attend him in the other v.orld. Nor h this hoiriblc facrifice performed with the fmallcfl appearance of fympathy : for the wretched viiTlims arc wantonly toimciited by the exe- cutioner.': for fevcral hours. N n CHAP. Il : Ha T H M O D R N [Africa. c H A P. in. Of gamti—fp!irti—>nufic-—la>iguiige—trt>ile. I ihe <"|)acc of fixty miles on the GoIJ. Coafc, there are ' fix or lucii iliflxTcnt trihes, whoCc rude articulations arc ' only intelligible lothofe of their rofpedtivc divifions. I The four principal iirticles of trade on the coaft of ! Guinei, are ijold, (laves, cleph.int.' teeth, iind drugs j SOME tribes of the negroes are much addnflcd i under the latter of which arc comprehended Ciuinca to gaming, and will ftako all they pofTefi upon 1 grain and pepper, civet, cardomums, injjgo, .-.nd the ill'ue. The ancient game of the natives is fimilar gums of fevcral kinds, particulaily gum-tra^acanth, to that of draughts, but the i^nropeaiu have now wax, and red wood. taught them to play likewife at cards and dice The European merchants ncvdr go up into tl;e Their rural (ports are hunting, (hooting, and (ifliing; country to piirchal'e gold, which is alwa)s brought to and fo plentiful is game in fume parts of the country, the (oris and I'aiSluries by the trading negroes, wl;o that a man may load himfelf with it iti a few hours.' are extremely fraudulent in their dealing. 'I'hey mix Having no dogs to fpring the game for them, nor copper,, and other fubftances of lc("s value, both with horfes to ride after it, as with us, guns, nets, and i their rockgo'd, rnJ gold-dull. Some pieces they fnarcs, are what they ufc on ihnfe occallons. In fifh J call fo artfull;-, that tjuito round, of the thijkne.'s of ing, however, they arc provided with all the ncccll'iry i a fliilliiig, the piece fliall apji^'ar to be pure g'"Id, tackle; and this is the principal employment, as well while perhaps the inner part of the maCs is fill.: I with as divcrfion, of thol'v; tiibcs that live near the coall. i copper or iron. The common (a'le mountain-gold is Eight hundred, or perhaps a thouf.md of them, go a mixture of fil'M, copper, ai:d a propouion of gold, out a-i"ifliing at once. They have hooks, harping- ' very high coloured, which renders the cheat not ealily irons, nets, and all the implements that are uf-.J by ' difccrnible. For being obliged to rccciie an infinite European (ilhcrmen. Every canoe, or boat, is of one ' number of fniall pieces in a pound, it is almoft im- piccc, niade out of the body of fome large tree. Thofe [ pofTibie for the merehant to examine each, and the - of the greateft fizc are thirty foot long, and fix broad, i metal likewife looking fo well, it is hardly ful'pecfled. which the Europeans hire to carry thiir merchandize | The natives alfo tinge a powder cf coral, or the to and from their (liips, and along the coaft from one ' filings of copp. r, fo artificially as to make them re- co'intry to another, but a fmallcr kind is generally I't-mble gold-dull, till in a month or two they lofc uleJ in fifhing. They are rowed, according to their I their factitious lullrc. fize, by two, three, feven, nine, eleven, and fome- The method which the faiflors take to didinguifl*. times fifteen watermen; there being always an odd true gold (roni fall'-, when in large pieces, is to cut m:mbcr, when more than two are employed, as one i it through, by which means the contents of the piece of them fleers the canoe. Inffcad of oars, they row are afcertaincd. liut if the gold be in dufl, thjy put with an inflrumcnt in the form of a fiiovel, with | it into a bafon, winnowing and blowing it, till the which they pufh thcml'civcs fwilily along, looking I counterfeit metal flies away, and iea\es the pure gold the fame way that they row. 1 behind. The common mufital infliuments arc trumpets | The value of gold, at an average, brought annually made of elephants teeth, bored through, with which I from the Guinea co.ift by all the F.uropean nations they make a loud, but dil'agreeable noilc. They that trade hither, is computed to amount to the value have alfo a kind of drum, made of a wooiien bowl, of three hundred thoul'and pounds and upwards j of with a fhcep-fkin ftretched ov.r it, in the form of a I which the Englifh are fuppofed to import one third, kettle-drum, ufing two wooden hammers for drum- the Dutch another, and the Trench, I'ortuguefe, and flicks, or fomctimcs beating them only vi'ith their ■ Pruffians another third. hands, in conceit with ilic trumpets. Another in- | The (lavc-trade is carried on in much the fame manner ftrument eijuaily harfli, and ufed likewife in concert ' as that of the gold. The negro fadors and mcrch.-'nts with the two preceding, is a hollow iron bell, which } come down to the coaft with their Haves, agree with yields a found by being be^t upon. The leall flioek- ■ th-; Europeans for the price of them, and likewife the ing of any of their mufie is performed on an inftru- ■ value of the goods which they arc ;o accept in ex- mcnt in the fliape of a harp. They fing and dance to change. It is, hov^■evcr, often neceffary for the their mufic, however, fuch as it is, and feeni to be! European narchant to pay thofe people the pi ice of as much charmed with it as Europeans are with the ' (laves beforehand, as the negro factors have not al- bcfl voices and ir.ftrumcnts, and the fincft compofitions ways flock fuflicicnt to go to market without credit} of the Italians. an indulgence which they fometiincs abufc, by never The language fpokcn by the natives of Guinea is an fulfilling their contrafl. '•ytremcly difagreeabic and uncouth found, nor have I As Guinea is occupied by a multitude of petty the Europeans ever been able to exprcis their words in I princes, who ate fiequcntly at war with each other, writing. It appears to be very different from that of 1 the (laves arc generally fuch as are made prifoners by the Hottentots, who communicate their ideas to one either party; and it being the praiflice, when they another, in many inftances, by inarticulate founds, Invade a country, to carry all the inhabitants into which has been conip.ircd by fome travellers to tlic i captivity, the fjioil coiilills not only of men, but of voice of a turkey-cock, buch, however, is the di- i women and children. The lift of thofe unfortunate vcrfity of dialedls in the language of Guinea, that in ' people is much cncreafcd by the great number of fucK I perfon» tA. I are I arc of |inca .-.id liUh, Ojinea.] G £ N R R A L 1- R A V li L L E R. H3 pcrlbns as have forfeited tlicir libcrlj-, citlicr on ac- I, iiiit (I debt, or of foinu mifdemcaiiour. M.:n I'ell tirii tlit-jr wives and children, on rcLeiviiij any of- fence, whilft others lefTen their families from an ap- preheiifioM that they Ih.ill not he ,Mu to maintain thtni. If a famine, or great fcartity happens, they will even lell themlclvcs to one another for bread. Inftances are known of children felling their parents when :hcy luve been weary of them, tiid wanted to enjoy their poU'eflions. In tirics of peace, nothing likewili; is more common, than for the negroes of one nation to Ileal thofu or another, and fell them to the Europeans. In thofe various ways is this horrible tra£ic carried on, to the difgracc of humanity, and of every printipie which ought to aiiluato civilized nations. VVlien a fliip arrives upon the coaft to purchafc flaves, the full bufinefs is to pay the duties, and make a prefent to tho kiiuj or governor of that part of the 'CJun'.ry, for pcr.'iillion to trade. The king's flaves arc to be t;iken off at alriioft what price he pleafes to put upon them, before the merchant is allowed to deal with his fubjcifts. The pries being agreed upon, the European furgcon views all the flaves naked, men, women, and children. Men that arc fuppofcd to be above thirty-five years of age, are uftially reje>Sed, as are all that have any lanienefs, or other defeiS, and fuch as are afflicled with a dillenipcr not eafily cured. Even the lofs of a tooth is fometimcs urged a: an ob- jeclion. When the infirm are fet aftde, the reft arc branded by the merchant with a hot iron, to diflinguifli thcni, and locked up in fomc prifon till they can be fcnt on board ; the Europeans having no forts or fac- tories in many places, where they meet with thegteateft number of fl.ives. The price of an able-bodied man may be about fivj pounds, the women a fifth part Icfs, and the children in proportion to their refpedlive ages. When they arc fent on fhip-board, their former mailers (Irip them of every rag, fo that the merchant receives them pcrfedlly naked ; in which ftate they renv.iin till they arrive in America. Cold is however the leafl of the hardlhips which they fufFer on thif pad'age, being packed fo dole together, that fix or fcvcn hundred are ufually flowed in a fhip. The decks ate fo divided that they are forced to lie, or fit double on the hard boards d.iring the whole voyage; and all the men arc loaded with irons, to prevent them from attempting their cfcape. Ivory may be had iji fniall ijuaiititics along the whole Guinea coalt, but it is met with chiefly in that part of the co'Mitrv which has obtained the name of the Tooih Coafl. It is fiid that there are large plains where 1 teeth are found in great plenty, which belonged to I elephants thit either died naturally, or were killed I by people unacquainted with the trade of tholb j bones. Theotheratticlcs of trade arc thcGulnca pepper, wax, and drugs, which arc chiefly procured upon the Grain I Coaft. What quantity of thofe commodities, or of teeth, is brought from Guinea cvi'ry year appears not : to be well afctrtained. A late writer computes, that j the Engli/li, Dutch, French, Danes, and Branden- 1 burghers, export from Europe to Africa, about the value of two hundred thouland pounds in goods; bringing thence annually in gold, flaves, ivory, and drugi, to the vr.hie of three millions; and that the Por- tuguefe, who ate pofl'cflcd of fuch vaft tradls of land upon the eaftcrn, as well as the wcftern conft of Africa, trade for as much as all the other Europeans put to- gether, in flaves and teeth. The goods exported bv the Europeans to Afric, a.'f chiefly callicoes, cottons, linen, and woollen ftufl"„, ferges, and perpctuanas, with wrought iron, pewter, and brafs; fuch as fwords, knives, hatchets, nails, ham- mers, pcwtcr-difhes, plates, pots, and cups, brafs- pots, kettles, and other houftiold utenfils; fire arms, powder, fljot, brafs and glafs toys, beads, bugles, and cowries, or blackamoor's teeth, with brandy, Englifli fpirit", and tobacco. It was computed, that the Africa.". Company, in its flourifliing condition, gained annually to England nine hundred thoufand poundc, Of this fum eight hundred thoufand confifted in flaves, which, in the infancy of their trade, were in great demand over all the American plantations, to fupply their own wants, and carry on a clandcftine commerce with the Spanifti Weft-Indies. liarbadocs required annually a fupply of four thoufand negroes, Jamaica ten thoufand, and the Leeward Iflands fix thoufand ; and the Company not being able to anfwer the demand, having im- ported only forty-fix thoufand three hundred and ninety-fix flaves between the years i68o and i68b', a number of interlopers arofc, aud contended for a ftiare of the trade. From this time the Company vifibly decayed; infomuch that in the eight following years they imported to the Weft- Indies only feventeen thoufand feven hundred and fixty flaves, while the private traders imported feventy-one thoufand two hundred and fixfy-eight. The original African Com- pany was afterwards diflolvcd, and a new one created by aft of parliament ; but at prefent, this tride is not near fo advantageous as form.crlv. NEGRO- 14+ THE MODERN [Africa. :,. >,■; . f- s . . NEGROLAND, ZAARA, and BILEDULGERID. TV! EG RO I- A N I^, or Nigrltia, is bounded on ! their grain. The former is cultivated by tliJ Women, •^ lie fouth I))' Giiiiica I'ropcr, on the weft by ' and th'; latter by tlic men ; and after h..rvcH, the till Ailniiic Ocean, on the north by '/aara, and on | whole produce is C(|ually divided aiiiorigt the inhabi- tlK cad by unicnowii parts of Africa. It is fitiiiitc tanls. In fome places, however, every man is entitled betwcM) lii degrees of weft, and 15 degrees of eaft ; to the corn and rice which ho fows ; but none lias a loi...;i:ude i and between 10 and 20 degrees of north j property in any particular part of the fielJ, the country laliiadc; the great river Niger running through the \ being confidered as a common. who'ri length of it, and falling by fevcial channels into 1 'i'he people of Negroland cat crocodile's eggs, th Ailaiitic Ocean. | fnakes, monkeys, and alligators, with alinoft every i'owaids the coaft, the country is for the moft part | fpecics of aiii.nial; but their principal food is riec, lo'A and flat; but farther from the fea, it is moun- I pulfe, Indian corn, ft"i!;ing liiT), an! ciifcDl'iin, which tainou.-., and covered wi.h wood, at a little diftancc | is flour mixed witli bi.ith, Th.'ir li.^uors are pa!m» fVdin the Ni^cr, up which river the tides flow four or | wine, mead, brandy, and rum, when they cm be five iiundied miles, '■ procured; but th- ir oruinary drir.k is water. The rainy feafon iifually begins before the middle 1 Every man is allowed to retain as many wives as lie of JuMC, and continues till Oiltoter, being generally j pleafes, and fonie have no lefs than a hundred. Tl;i; mini viilent at the commencement and clofe of this | wife is turned oft' at picafuie; and, at her difmiflion, perujd. During thole four months the fea-brcczes | is obliged to take wiib i.er .ill her children, unlcfs th? feldoin blow, but iuftcad of them cafterly winds, di- ' father clioofes to keep any of them. rectly do vn the river, svhich from November to March The people of this country arc generally Mahomc— blow very frcfh, cl'pccially in the day-time. The tans, the .'\rabs vvhi made a conqueft of the coaft of grc.it^u heats are in May, three weeks or a month 1 Barbary in the ievenih century, having fuicc fpreail bcfoic the rainy feafon begins. ' thcmfelves fo far as the river Isii^er, and picpagatei The inhabitants of this country, on tlie north fule I ihcir religion anion;; the natives. of the Niger, a.-e not born with flat nofes, as their | Their government, of which hardly Rny thing is fouthcrn neighbcur?; but many fantaftical mothers , known, it is p'^^''''''^ rcfcmbles that of Guinea, reckoning fuch a fliape bcautil'ui, produce it in their | Their piincip.il manufaiTlure is cotton cloth ; anJ children by artificial means. Broad noftrils, thick 1 their arms arc fv.'ord;, bows and arrows, fpcair, and lips, and large breafts, are heie in much eflceni ; and ; darts, one breaft is generally larger than th- other. The gold of Negroland is reputed of excellent During the early period of infancy, they dip their j quality, and the natives bring it tv) t!ie merchants on children oicr head and cars in cold water, three or I the coaft, in fin.iil bars from ten to forty fljiUingS four ti.Tics in a day; and after drying, rub them with each. They alfo bring flavc!^, fometimes to the p;ilni-oil, particularly the back-bone, fniall of the | number of two thouf.md in the year, moft of whom baik, elbows, neck, knees, and hips. At firft-, a ' they fay are prifoncrs. made in war. Thofe wretched child is of r.n olive colour, and docs not turn black \ captives are tied by the neck with Icatlier tliongi. till a month or twe.. When a month old, it receives iis name, and its head is ftiavcd. CIiiMren go naked about a yard diftant from each other, thirty oi forty in a ftring; having generally a bundle of cor;i, or an till they arrive near tht age of puberty, at which | elephant's tooth on each fide of their heads. Tl.ey are time all the males arc circumcifed, and they alTume 1 alfo obliged to carry warcr in Ikin bags, to fupport their habit, which is not uiiifor; 1 in ditVcrent parts of them on their journey; having no opportunity of the country. Some, of both fcxes, wear only a being fupp'ied with any for feveral day?, on tiicir piece cf cloth rourd their waifts; whilft others, of way through the woods and mountains, tlie men, ule a loofe covering over their fliouhlcrs, | Befidcs the flavcs brought froin diftant parts, many and the wtimen over their whole body, except the arc puichafed along the river, who are cither taken arnis and legs. They ulually drefs their h.iir with ; in war, tondcinned for crimes, or have b.'cn ftolen, glittctin ; fticlls and toys, and many of them wear 1 which is a praflice very commor. aniongft them. The white cups. 1 company's ftrvants, however, feldom buy the latter. Their houfcs are little low huts, built with wooden [ where they entertain any l'ufj)ieion of fuch means Hockadcb ft in the ground, in a circular or fquare ; having been ufed, wilhotit fending for the alcaide, form, thatched with ftr.iw. The furniture generally or chief men of the place, and confulting with them confifts of a mat or two to lie down upon, two or j on the fubjecl. Since tlie introduilion of this tr.ide, ihiec earthen or wooden diflies, and the fame nuuiber all puniftinicnts are chi;,-cd into (livery; and great of fpoons, advantage being derived from tliofe condemnations, Alm'lt every town has two common fields of eie.ir ihcy ftrain hard for crime,', in order to reap th« benefit prouir.!, one lor the rice, and the other for the reft of of felling the pcrfons aecufed. Nor only murder, 7 theft tICA. o:7;tn, ■a, the nliabi- .'iitiilcd 1 ' a juntiy every lice, which lir;!m» can be 7'iinea. i and li, and 1^ ^,H ■^ /' ■ " > r , - 3!h \ Morocco.] theft, and adul punifticd in t^ banks of the N the inland part: more or lefs, i The other a phants teeth ; in the woods, Whctlicr toe e which natural! tain; but thci opinion, as tec without the ap aniK-xet. So fomc of them and thirty poui pounds is wor a hundred and at the point ai ire white, otii eccafioiu no d Of thi fituat. THE em by the kingdom of and on the \ between 2 between j8 according miles long, It is dill that of W-i middle, anii When th of Africa in laricll kinu cf the coati Spain on r'llriilcd to i:iofl: nort';. tana of the 'I'liigis or ' the ilrcight The ch Ccbu, and north, fcp and dilch.i This is vedels, ai greater hi; No. II Morocco.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. »45 theft, anil adulte-ry, but almoft every trilling fault ii punifhcd in this ir.aiincr. The llaves fold on the banks of the Niger, exclufivc of thofe brought from the inland parts, are computed to be about a thoufund, more or lefs, in the yc 'r. The other articles of trade are bees-wax and ele- phants teeth; the latter of which arc cither picked up in the woods, or obtained by killing the animal. Whether toe elephant ever fheds its teeth, is a point which naturalifts have not yet been able fully to afcer- taini but there fcems to be Come ground for this opinion, as teeth are frequently found in the woods, without the appearance of any part of the jaw being annexec. So large is the fize of thofe teeth, that fomc of them have been known to weigh a hundred and thirty pounds. One tooth which weighs a hundred pounds is worth more than three teeth which weigh .1 hundred and forty pounds. Thofe which ire broken at the point are confiderably lefs in their va) ae. Some are white, othirs yellow; but the difFerenct in colour eccafloits no difference in price. Contiguous to Nejiroland on the north, lies Zaara, or Sahara, beyond which, in tlie fame dire£ti(jn, id fituated Biledulgerid. 1'he latter is bounded in the north by the empire of Mo occo; each of tliejn, on the call, by unknown par i of Atrioa; and on the weft, by the Atlantic Ocean. Both of ihfm are a barren defart, and fo dettitute of the necclTar-os if life, that when the caravans pa:i over it, in travellinjj from Morocco to Ncgroland, the camels are half loaded with water and provifions for the journey. There are here no towns, but fome inhabitants, fup- pofed to be the defcendants of thofe Arabs who fub- ducd Africa foon after the death of their prophet Maiiomet. They live in tents, and being acqii.iintcd with the few fprings that are in the defart, , ander from one part of the country to another, where they expe5 itfelf into the Atlantic Ocean, clcfu t the port-town of Santa Cruz. The i^abaita runs ali.xft i; with tt" preceding, and finifli'; ratical port of Sallee. The river Cclu, at the moM i another piratical ,)ort, with tnc Lccus, which dif- chargi felf at the port of L:irr.u.hc, fall likcwifc into the ' ocean. None of thofe rivcib sre navigabl? for 1 i, and the ports at their ni. S- will admit on'\ .nail vefTels. The moft commodiou . bays, though uni.ife in fome winds, are tliofe of Tangitr and Tetuan. T Spaniards are in polLffion of Ceuta, oppofite to Cibraltar, and of Penon de Velez eaft of it; but fe harbours are likewifc not fate. -lallce is efteemed the beft por-. in Morocco, ap.d is a good harbour after a (hip has entered it ; but there Is not more than twelve foot of water on the bar at ^ .uU tide. The mountains of Atlas run through the countiy from eaft to weft, and abutting on ihe wcftcrn orcan, gave name to that fea. It is agrecJ that ihofe cele- brated mountains, which, .iccording to the fiiflion of ti;. poets, fupportcd the heavens, couie not in com- pptition cither with the Alps, cr the Apennines. They confill of a number of hills of four, five, or fix bundled yards perpendicular height, with an eafy afcent, rifing a? it were in ra^igco one above the other; O jiucr- ^ Mi : t^ J^i ^/"::¥'i. ;.. - "•• J. '. !1: 146 n n MODERN [Afiuca. If Ml i! ]'m intcifiicrftiJ wiili a few houfcs, funii rocky prccijiiccs, , ciipable of .icioiniiimlatiiig a liiiiiJn.'J peiT-Jiu, 'I liij aiul [;ruvc3 of fiuit and forell tr'.'es. 'J'licy arc now no ' ciulouinuit i:> uliu I'avouicl witli iliu Liiipcuir:! pij> longer I iich.'intcd, nor irn.et wc with 111, y ot ilic noi.- tLClioii, on account of tlie prLlcnis uliicli tlic i;i:ar- turt1.1l flames, melodious lnunda, or imaginary bfinjs Jians annually make to him, and vt' dwlr tak.ii;j care attributed to them dy the ancients. 1 '-•( his fiek flavij. Between the mountains of Atlcs and the Mcdittr- Noj'.viilill.iiuiing the advantages of this cl);irilable fancan, the country contains cxtcndvc fruitful plains, inllitution, there are at iMii|uiniz a iiiiraLcr ol iciic- but very little of thofc fpecies of wood diliinguiflied by :;ado(.3, who have rcnouti;cJ Chriftianiiy, and proitfa the name of timber. Notwithf?anding its foutherly t ihc religion of the country. 'I'hc people of ihii clafj fituation, it is not fo hot as the Spanilli valleys, on are the moll vicious and i.hand.iiiud of the vvliolu in- acvouii; of its being more open, and the mountains h.ibitnntj, and dcl'pifcd biilli by Moors and Cluiilians. of .'\tlas always cool. In general the weather is torn- {"hey arc generally cntertaiiud in the arn!)-, whcia perate and fercne ; but in tlie month ot March, the they are only half provided either with vi>.tj;.ls 01; north-wi ft winds arc very violent. 1 i.loatlis, except hah as und^rlLjid cngin„'.'.iij^, or 'I'he thief towns in the kingdom of Fez, arc Fez, i ean b; ulef.jl to the Moors in lilting out their jiiiaiical Metiuinez, Tctuan, Tangier, Ceuta, Arzilla, Lar- ' vcffcla at Sallec, who never fail of being greatly ca- rachr, Mamora, and S;dlec. rclVed. 'I'hty have their own a!wl;de, or g);ei:;e.', Fez, the capital of the province, and of the whclo in the f.ine manner as th-2 Clirillia.is and Jews. The city of I'etuaii is lituatcd on the afcciit of .1 rock, al O'.it eight niiLs f:oiii a bay of the M^ditcrt.tnraii Sea, near tliiriy miles fputh of Ceuta, and fifty fouih- empire, is fituate on the river Ccbu, in 6 degrees of welMongitude, and 33 degrees odd minutes north lati- tude. It is divided by the river into two cities, one called New Fez, and the other Old Fez. The former call of 'Fan.: '1 he town is about a mi'i; long, and half a milt broad; ilu llicets nairow, uiipawd, and full of dunghills in v.-inter. It is liowcvcr one of the bed built towns in l!ic country. The houfe3 uhially range about a li:tlc open l'<]uarc, fu'-.oa.'ulcd in the front with piazzas fupportiii^ galleries ; and in the middle of the f.juare people of condition l;;'.vc always a foimtain. The town contain.'; about thirty thoul'and inhabitants, of which five thoiifand at lead arc Jcv.'j, who h.ive here ii.ven fynagogucs. Tholi; people arc the only hrolvers between Chrilli.ins and Moors; and though all the trade of ih-' place pafiea through their hands, they r.re laid to be very poor. It is remarkable of this city, that the people walk is .hrce mil'-s in circiimference, adorned with upwards of fifty mofqucs or Mahometan temples. The houfes of pi.ople of condition confift of fevera! fijuares, but thofe cf tradcfmen .lie very mean. The ftreets, which are narrow and nnpaved, are dirty in winter and dufty in fummcr. Travellers lodge in caravanferas, or houfi built by the public for' their entertainment ; but they niufl buy and drcfs their own provifion, Bc'i cities taken tjogethcr are fo populous, tli:'- they cm raifc forty thoufaiid men at a very fliort wa :^,nu-. They are e.ich furroundi-d by antique walls and towers ; but i.ol of confidcrable ftrength. Here is always a garrifon confiding of a good body of horfe, who arc employed in C"licfling the corn of tlie adjacei.t conn- i over the flat roofs of their houfes, pnd thence vifit try, and laying it up in .n.igazincs erccled for mat one another, more than by the llrccts. It is furrounJeJ piirpofe; and itnon al! th • little ftreams in the nei^h- : by -.n ordinary wall, and defended by an old calUc, bourhood there arc mills for grinding it. The palaces ; conhlling of two courts. 'Fhc outward itiu.ire i> ill which the king and court formerly refidcd are in ; flanked With towers, but the v/,.lls arc not cannon ruins, the imperial reudcncc havir.g been fixed at ! ptcof, and is commanded by .idj jceiit hills. Mequinez for many yf rs; but Fez has ftill as briflv ' On a hill above the ivvn is a burying-placc, a trade as -.,y town in the empire. .idorncd with a great number of cupolas and pyramids; Mcquir.ez, where the court now rc.1t';rj, is fituate but wh..c is chietly worth notice in Tctuan, is the in a plcaf.ait plain, in 5 degrees of weft longitude, bafliaw's palace. Here are fine apartments for the and 34 degrees of north latitude. The town is di- baOijw's four wives; each apartment confiding of vided into fevcral quarters, or rather contains fevcial five roomi, namely, one large room, covered v.'itlj cities united. The palace is a didinifl city; the ' a cupola, in the center of four fma'ler rooms. : behind quarter of the Moors i? another: the Ncto town a which are the bagnios of the women, ;.iid the loJgii.gs third ; and the Jews have a quarter to thcmfelves, in I of the female llaves. Both the doors and cieliiigs of which rot lefs than fifteen thoufand rcfidc, who arc ■ the apartmenrs arc very lofty, inimed.attly otcr tlicni governed by a fhick, or magidrute, according to their : are four noble tcrradev, overlooking the town and own laws, and arc under the kii'g",^ protection. They ' a fine vale beiieath it, with a river, and part of the are fo ncceflary to the ftate, that the kingdom could i iMediterraneaii Sea, At the end of each terr..ls is a not .'.ell fubfift without them, and aic the only , turret with lattices, where the women fit at work, bankers in the country, T'b.. hridian flaves are and may have a view of all that pafiet without bein^ alfo allow '..d an alcai'le, or governor, wlio is of their , obferved. own religion, ; 'I'angicr is fitua'c on a b.iy of the fea, near C".ipe There is here a rr.onaftcry of Spanifh Friar.'!, en- ! Spartcl, at the cntraiue of th.; llrcightJ of C»ibr.iltar. iluwcd with a revenue of five hundred (idolcs a year, ft was the capital of the an.:icnt Mauritan a i m.M- for the cntertainmcin of capt r- , to prevent their tana, and faid to have been buii: by Antaus, who •mbracing Mahometanifm. Tlicy have an infirn.ary ' gave it the name r>f Tingi or Tmgis, afitcwudj y ) tlungcJ T 'Fho! of m the the lli'.- All and bo.' or }'" Ici V the for <:l:.l fr onl) a fliirt ) and inllead of drawers, hind n towel about their loins. Dut when tluy .-ippear in public, they always fold thimfilvcs (o dole in their h)kcs, that wilhoiit th:j aiMition of a veil, uhieh they alfo wear, very little is to he fecn of their faces. They all iiilVill to h.uc their hair long, whicli tl.cy gather into a roil upim the hinder part of the head, binding and plaiting it aftcrw.irds with ribb.inils, and lying over it a triaiigul.ir piece of linen, wrougiit into a variety of figures with the needle. Perfons of belter fafhion wear above this a farmuth, which differs not much in fhape from the piece of drcfs lalV mentioned, but is made of thin flexible plates of gold or filver, varioufly wiought, and cn_;raved in imit.ition of lace; and over all, many wenr a handkerchief of cr.ipr, gauze, filk, or painted linen, bound dofe about the farmath, from which it falls down behind. Kut they never reckon tlicmfelves completely drclild, till they have tin^^ed the hair and edges of their cyc-liJs with the powder of lead-ore. The footy colour, thus commiinic:itcd to the eyes, is thought to add wonder- ful gracefulncfs to perfons of all complexions. Many of the Arab's go b: re headed, bindi.ng their ten>| Ic-: with a narrow lilLt, to prevent their hair from being troubklbmc; but the bcller fort, and the Moors in general, we.ir cips or tuibiir.s. The Moors, the original inhabitant.;, live in towns, and arc the mofl numerous: the Arabs live in tents, removing their camps, when they want frefli parture for their cattle : and the dwelling of the Kabyh's arc tlutched cottages, each containing but one room, in which they .".Ifo houfe their y.")urig cattle. People of figure among the Moors h?.ve a variety of diflies at an entertainment, mixed up with almonds, dates, milk, honey, &c. But the Arabs and Kabyica have neither utenfils nor conveniences for fiich luxury; two or three wooden bowls; a pot and kettle, being the whole kit.;lien furniture of the greatell emir or prince. All ranks of thofe people hov/ever eit In the fame manner, firft wa/liing their h;inJ.s, and then feating thcmfchcs crofs- logged round a mat, or low table, upon which their dilhes arc ph.tcd. TIil. iifi; no table cloth, each perfon contenting himfelf v/lth a fliare of a long towel that lies round the mat. Ksives and fpoons are hardly ever ufed; as the meat being well roafted or boiled, requires no carving. Th: whole company dipping the fingcrd of their right hr.nd into the difli, take what portion they can conveniently for a mouthlul, making it fii.1 into little bails or pellets, iii the palms of their hands. Whenever a and by them transfiricd to Chailcs t!ie Second, k;ng of (ireat llr tain, with the prinecfs Catherine, infanta of Portugal, in 1661. The charge of keeping up the fortiliijationi, however, and of m.iint.iining a nume- rous garrifou ag.iinft the continual attucks of the IMoor', was fo gic.it, that the works were demolifhed, and the garrifon withdrawn in 1683. Joying on the declivity of a hill, it is very hot in the funiinir, and the houfes being white, it makes a tolerable ap|H-aianec from the fea; but is now a place of little llicngth, and has hardly any trade. ArB'lIa, ai.d fome other port-towns on the well coalV, belong ftill to Portug.il. Thofe arc ftrong fortieiTes, fuch at Icafl as the Moors with their indiffe- rent miliua cannot take; and the fame may be faid of the port i.f Ceuia, which remains in the polleflion of the Sp.Mii.rds. Salhe and Mamor- having been already mentioned, we proceed io the city of ."^lorocco, the capital of the province of that luitne. It i^ fituate in a large pl.iiii on the river Ni/Ii;;, in 9 d' i^'O.-b of well longitude, and 31 of noici iaiitude. Both the city and foititications are njvv in a dcelinir^; fUte, th;: fe.it of the empire being tranflated to Meij'iinez. The huu:j» are faid to h .ve formerly amouati; J to a hundred thuufand, all built w.tli flat roofs ; hut at prclTiit, the city contains not above a fourili part of that nuniluT. It is fur- rounded by a wall and fonie ruiticiue fortifications, weak to detcnd it againfl a fiegc. The chief town in th- province of Suz is TaraJ.int, or Tenant, filuate in a Ipacioiis plain, on the river Agus, in 10 degrees of weft longitude, and 30 of north latitude. It was formerly the refidcncc of the king, but now has little in it that requires a particular de- scription, CHAP. 11. Of the inhah\tanti — iti-rfs—tlv.c'.i'nigi — enlcrtdlnmcnts — manner of Hfi—mufic—man'utgn— 'funerals— rellsim —Sovcrnmint—forcei-— trade. 'T~^HE people of Morocco confifV of three chilTes, •■• who dill, r from each other in their way of life. Thofe are the Moors, the Aiabs, and the inliabitants of mount Atlas. The Moors that arc not expofed to the we.ithcr, have generally good complexions, and the l.idies for the molt part fine features, as have alfo the natives of the mountain ; but the Arabs arc tawny. All the three tubes are cou.monly of a good flature, and well proportioned. Thfir ufual drcfs is a clofe- bodied frock i.r tuni< k, over which they we u a hyke, ! perfon has fniifiied his meal, he rifcs up and wi:nies or ni.ii.'.le, whKCh is a woolkn blanket, generally fix himfelf, without paying any regard to the companiy. yards h'l'g, and near two br .id. This garnicw (ervcs both the .\rahs ai.d Kabylcs, or inhabitants of the mountains, for a cciiiplete drcls in the day, and for their bed and covering in the mght. Thofe two and another immediately takes his p' lc. There being no diftindlion of tabks, the mafti-r and firvant eat at the fame without ceremony. Wacn they fit down to their meals, and before they enter on any chiffes wear no dravveis, which the Moors ol both | bufinefs, they alwavs pronounce with the irrcatcft re- fexes conlKintly ufe, elpeciatly when they go abioad I verence and fervency Dlfmiiiu, which figiiu'ics in tin or receive vilit.". 'I'hc virgins are dillinguiflied Uom \ name of Co.i; and at the conclufion, Alhamdalla, or, the matrons in having '.heir's made of liccdic-work, Gsrf /r/rfl/y^.i. 1 The I i i II r Ml 1^^ H E M O D E R N [Africa, The Moors rife curly, conftaiuly attcnJiji^ thiir public ilnotions at brcil; of diiy. Every iicilim em- ploys himl'cif afterwards in the cxcrcifo of hii ti.iJe or occupation, till ten in the morning, the iifual time lit dinint'. Having; finiflicd thi;ir mkmI, they return to bifincfs till afa, the alicriioon prayers, at wliieh time all work ceafcs fur the dav, and the (hups arc fhut up. Supper commonly follows the prayers of magicb, or fun-fc! ; and afterwards rcpcatini; the fame at the letting (.f the watch, when it begins to be dark, they im- mediately go to bed. The Arabs follow no regular trade or emplnyinciitj their life being one continued round of idlcncfs or dl- vcrfion. When no paltime calls them abroad, they do nothing all the day hut loiter at home, fmokc their pipe, and repofe themfelves under fome neighbouring fhadc. They have not the finalleft rclilh for domeftic pleafures. What they chiefly value is their hojfcs, In which almoft their whole enjoyment confiftsj being fddom ill good humour, except when they are hunting and riding at full fpecd. People who live in fuch a manner can have but little tafle for the recreations of niufic, and accordingly that of the Arabs is fuiiable to the rude nature of their inllrunicnts. Almoft the only one in ufc is the bladder and ftrlng, which is fomctimes accompanied with another in the form of a kettle drum, that fcrvcs as a bafs in their concerts. The niufic of the Moors, however, is more artificial and melodious. Befidcs feveral forts of flutes and haufboy.i, they have a violin of two firings, and a bafs doubla-ftringed lute, bigger than our viol, with feveral fmall guitars of different fizes, each of them tuned an oilavc higher than another. Kvcry man is allowed four wives, with as many c>M-ub'nes as he picafcs ; and marriage is celebrated here in the fame manner as in other Mahometan countries. Funerals likcwife are folemnizcd in the ufual mode of thofe nations. AVomcn arc hired to lament and howl over the corpfe, who tear off their hair, and cut themfelves till they bleed. After fome time the corpfe is carried to the burying-placc, the priells finging as they go, Liiilla, il lala, Mnhomit tejoul Jlldh : Gsd it a gn-at God, tmd AUhomct bis frophit. Having fet the body upright in the tomb, with tlic face towards Mecca, they leave it in that poflorc. With refpedt to their burying-places. every perfon, according to his quality, purchafcs a piece of ground, a little out of town near the highway-fide; enclofine; it with a wall, within which they ufually plart flowers, and fomctimes ereifl a doine or fpire over the grr.vcs. The women vifit the tombs of thi?ir huibands and other relations every Friday, which is their fab- bath ; and here they perform their devotions, being never fuffcred to inter a mofque, nor to receive any vifits from the priells. On thofe occafions they carry with them, as an offering, meats and fruits, which arc cat by the poor when they retire. The Mahometans of this intry are of a different feif from thofe of Turky. i .cy have a mufti or hi[;li pricfl of their own, who refidts at Mcquincz ; under whom are pricAs in cvciy town, v ho dfte.-tnin.c all caufes, civil as well as ecclefinllual, and utiiclate in their mofqueri. liefidvi thofe there are faints or mar- abouts, that live retired in the n.ountains and un- frKpienicd places, fur whom the people h.ive fo great vcniiation, that if a criminal can make his ticape to a perfon of this charatler, the officers of jullice dare nut fcizc him, and the faint frequently |irocurcj the offender's pardon. All the marabouts, however, do not live as hermits, nor ufc great auflctiiies ; for fome of them have large polVeflions, and indulge themfelves in every kind of plafure. Thofe orders of men are held in the grcatelf veneration; the peofde tlleemiiig it a great favour to kifs their feet, or even the hem of their garments; dclided with rii opinion of pretended fantflity, which is acquired and fupportcJ by im- pndurc. A protcrtant may enjoy greater freedom under the government of Morocco than in any popifli kingdom or ftatc; for they admit univerfal tolerance in matters of religion, allowing even the flaves to have thiir own priells and chapel in the capital of the empire, Morocco is governed by a fovcrcign, who has the title of emperor, and pdffiUcs unlimited power, which he often cxercifcs in the moll cruel, brutal, and ca- pricious manner. 'I'lie roagiHratcs under him arc either cadies, who are rf the ecclcniflical order, or military officers; c.ich of whom determine all caufea within their tefpcc'^tivc departments. Notv.'ithftanding the tolerance allowed in religion, the laws in other cafes arc extremely fevcrc. If a rcnegado, after pro- feffing himfelf a difciple of Mahomet, returns to Chrillianity, he is burnt without mercy. Murder, theft, and adultery, are alfo puniflicd with death. Various modes of punifliment are infliiScd on thofe who commit crimes againft the ftaic; fuch as impaling, dragging the perfon along the ftreets at a mule's heels till his fleflj is torn off, throwing him from a high tower upon iron hooks, hanging him upon hods till he i'ics, or crucifying him ; in doing which the em- peror, or his br.fhaws, frequently aft the part of exe- cutioners. What greatly adds to the horror of thofe dreadful fccnes, is that the accufed perfon is denied the privilege of making any defmce, and is often in- nocently facrificcd to malevolence, or the wantonnef* of uncontouled oppteffion. The forces in different parts f)f the empire Arc very numerous. It is roniputed that the black cavalry and infantry do not amount lo lefs than forty thoufand men, and the Moorifh horfe and foot to as itiany. 'T'h; blacks arc cftccmed the bell troops, and ot ihofe nioft formidable arc the cavalry. The people of Morocco, however, arc very ignorant in the management of ';rrat guns and bombs, leaving thofe chiefly to the dircftion of rencgado Chriflians, of whom there are fonic thoufants in their armies. Thcv have a train of a htiiidred and fitly brafs guns in the palace of Mcquinei, befides fi-vcial mortars, which arc fomctimes drawn out in times of danger. It appeared on a late enquiry, that the whole naval force of this empire confiftcd but of two twcniy-gun fliips, the largcft not above two hundred tun, nivtl » Ficnch Dakbakv.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 52 French briganiiiic ihcy haJ taken, vvii'.i a few row- boats. Yet will) th'ifc vcdlls well nniiiu ,1, they ilTiie uut from Sallcu and Mamora, aiul make |>rizc ut' great nunibcri otCliiilliaii mcrcliaiit (hips, tliccicvvs ufwhitli they carry into captivity. 'I'liough at peace with Uritaiii, they make no fcrupie of Ceizinij and carry- ing her rtiip'i into Sallee, if tliey tin I a p.idcinjcr on board belonginj; to any country with whieli their nation is at w.ir. It is however thci.' common prac- tice ti) fet the fliipi and crews at liberty, after robbing them of fume merchandize. The chargi; of thofe pira- tical cruizers is borne entirely by private adventurers, ai\il the emperor retains a tenth of all the prizes they make. I'his fovcreign is alfo entitled to a tenth of all corn, eatlk', fruits, and produce of the (oil, with a duty on whatever is exported. Having no (liipping to carry on trade oy fca, the Europeans briiig them whatever they want from abroad ; as linen and woollen cloth, iron wrou;;ht ajid uu- ' wrought, arms, gun-powder, lead, and the like; taking in return, copper, wax, hides, Morocco lea- ther, wool, ijuuij, dates, almcnds, and other fruits. Their trade on the continent is cither with Arabia or Ncgroland, They fend to Mecca caravans, con- (iding of fevcral thouCand cnmels, horfc?, and mulcj, twice every year, partly (or traffic, and partly on a leligious accojnt i great numbers of pilgrims taking thofe ojiportunities of paying their devotions to their prophet. Tlie goods they carry to the Eail arc woollen iiianufadlurcs, Morocco (kins, indigo, cochineal, and oltrich feathers ; and thence they bring back niuilin] and drugs. By their caravans to Negroland they (end f.ilt, filk, and woollen manufaillures, bringing gold and ivory in return, but chiefly negroes, for recruit- ing the emperor's black cavalry. The caravans are cxpofed to great danger, not only from the Arabs who infell the defart;, but (Vom the burning fands, which are often blown by the violent winds in fo great a quantity, as to bury the travellers alive. Such, how- ever, is the ardour infpired by the third of gain, and the force of fuperftition, that in (pite of all ihofc dif- adcrs, the caravans never fail to undertake their journey at the ufual feafon. B R B R Y. ■DARBARY, in the largcrt acceptation of the •"-^ name, incluJjs tlic whole fouthern coaft of the Mediterranean from the Atlantic Ocean to Egypt ; but in a more limited fenfe, the kingdoms of Algiers, Tunis, and Tripoli. The kingdom of Algiers is fituate between 30 and 37 degrees north latitude; and between i degree of weft, and 9 degrees of caft longitude; being bounded on the weft by the river Mulvia, which fcparates it from the empire of Morocco; on the north by the Mediterranean ; on the caft by the kingdom of Tunis ; and on the fouth by mount Atlas. It is generally a mountainous country, computed to be about fix hun- dred miles lon;^, and four hundred broad. Amongft its rivers the principal arc, the Mulvia, Saft'ran, Major, and Guadalharbar, which run from fouth to north, and difcharge themfclvcs into the Mediterranean fea. This kingdom is divided into three provinces, namely, Tlenifaa or Tremefan on the weft, Titteric 11^ the middle, and Conftantina on the eaft. The chief towns in the province of Tremcfen are; 1. Tremefen, fituate almoft under the meridian of London, in 35 degrees of north latitude, about fixty miles fouth of the Mediterranean. This was formerly a rich and populous city, capital of a i:ingdom of the fame name ; but it is at prcfent an inconfiderable town. 2. Oran, or Warran, a port-town on the coaft of the Mediterranean; and, 3. Marfalquivcr ; the laft two being under the dominion of Spain fince the year The chief town in the province of Titteric is Al- giers, the capital of the kingdom, fituate in 36 degrees 40 minutes north latitude, and 3 degrees 30 minute, No. 13. caft longitude. It (lands on the fide of a hill rifing gradually from the fea, near the mouth of the river SafFran; and is defended by a pier or mole, five hun- dred paces in length, ftrctching from the continent to a fmali illand, which is fortified with acaftle and large batteries of guns. The walls are three miles in cir- cumference; the port of an oblong form, a hundred and thirty fathom long, and eighty broad, defended by fcveral batteries of great guns, The houfes arc built very compaft, and computed to contain a hundred thoufand Mahometans, fifteen thoufand Jews, and two thoufand Chriftian (laves. The environs of the city are beautifully diverfified with country feats and gardens, whither the more opulent inhabitants retire during the fummer. The villas confift of little white houfes, fliaded wi'.h a va- riety of fruit-trees and cvcr-grcens, which afford a inoft delightful profpcft. The gardens arc well ftockcd with melons, fruit, and pot-herbs of all kinds ; and enjoy a great command of water, from the many rivulets and fountains with which the place is fup- plied. In the fouthern part of this province is the highcft mountain in Barbary, called Jurjura, being part of the range of hills which go under the name of Atlas. It is in IciVjith about eight leagues, lying nearly in a dircAion from north-eaft to fouth -weft, and appears to be :i chain of naked rocks and precipices, By its ruggtrl fituation it fcrurcs a number of Kabyles from becoming tributary to the Algerincs. The province of Conftantina is fituated between the river Booberack, which feparatcs it from Titteric on ihc weft, and the river Zaine, which divides it from $9 "" '!• I 1 . i' -lii '54 II M O I' R N [Ar.iicA. the kingdom of Tunu on tlie calh One of its cliicl ] ihit any p«rt of li.iibary ad^riii more '.li.in one crup towni ii l!ui;i'ii fornu-rly (he ca))ilal ot the kingdom in the ycir. of the fame nxinc, fiiuate at the mouth of the liver ' In Tonic p.irti of the country, wh^-re thry h.ive :i Major, alwiiit twenty lc»j;iics c^lt of Al'^kra, It in | comniiinJ of water during the fiirniiKr, the naiivci a fortified town, built upon the ruins of u large city, j cultivate rice, Indian coin, and [i iiticularly a whicj of which a ;:rcat part of the wnll yet rcm.iiiu. Jtcfidc) ; fort of millet, which the Arabs c.il! dr.ih, anJ prefer a c;i(llc on the hill, which commands the city, two j it to barley tor the fattening of tluir c.ittie, Oati others ftand at the bottom for the fvcurity of the port ) I are not cultivated by the Arabs, the hoifci of tli • but they all were not able to defend the fliippini; in country feeding aho^eiher upon b.iilcyj in'itlicr n big, the rivcr':> mouth, when attacked by Sir ICdward or winter-whcaf, fo muth as known in this climate. Sprngg the Knglilh admiral, in 16711 for he took The Moors and Arabs continue to tread out their and dcftroycd nine Algcrinc men of war in this htr- corn, after the primitive cultom in the I^af^, When the bour, grain is trodden out they winnow it, by ihiowing it U|> Another of the chief towns is C'onflantlna, the with fliovtis, loil^;in|> it alterwaidi in niattaniorci or iiiiciciit Cirta, cnpital of the province. It fliiiids on | fubtcrraneous magazines. tJK rivijr Ruinmel, upwards of ninety niilfls to the ] This country produces (;reat numbers of palm-tree', fouthward of liugia, 'I'lie ;;rcatcft part of the town almond- tiCi, apricots, pliiin*, clicriies, niulberriej, has been built upon a kind of piiiinfular promontory, apples, pears, peaches, nciilarines, pi ir.e^ranates, inacce/libic on all fides, except towards the !oaih-wcf), prickle pears, olives, and waliiut!>i but no hazel hl- and fituated on a precipice of at lead a hundred fathom berts, Roofebcrry or currant bufhcs. The lemon, and perpendicular. , funictinies the Seville oran;^e-tree, is aliviys in a fuc- Jiarbary enjoys a whokfome temperalnie of air, cflion of fruit and blod'ims ; but tile China orangi", neither too hot in fumnier, nor too fharp and cold in 1 which is here a foreigner, bears only towards the latter winter, The winds arc generally from the fia, or 1 end of autumn. The grape ripens about the end of from the weft (by the north) to the eaft. Thole July, and is cut for the viiitai'c in Siptcmber. The from tlic cafl arc cnmmon at Algiers from May to , wine of Aljjieis, befoie the loeuds, in the years 172J September, at which time the weflcrly winds take I and 1724, made fu'ch vatl deflruiSlion < I »sfi THE MODERN [Africa. a tarn, &c. according to the fcx and quality of the patient, and the natuic of the diftempcr. The government of Algiers refides ultimately in the I'utkift) foidicri, .^'ho are computed to be about fcven thoufjnd i the Moors and Arabs, though nioic nume- rous, not claiming any voice in the public afldirt of the flate. Oftenfibly, however, the fiipremc power is lodged in the hands of a fovereign piiiice diHinguiOied by the title of dey, who afcends the throne not in right of fucceflion, but by the eledlion of the Turks. | This kingdom is not fubjciSl to the grand fignior, though the dey pays for.ic regard to him as the head of their religion. The revenues of the government arife from the tribute paid by the Moors and Arabs ; a dctachnirnt of the foidicrs being fent into each pro- Tincc annually to culleifl it. The prizes they take at feu fometimcs equal the taxes on the natives. The dey has fcvcrrl thoufand Moors in his fvrvicc, both horfc and foot ; and each of his b;ys or viceroys, in the provinces, hif a body of them under his com- mand. The naval force of the Algerines, however, has been for fume ye^rs on the decline; but a friendly intcrcourfe with them being ufcful, and even neceflary to thofe nations which trade in the Mediterranean Sea, •Imoft every maritime power of Europe has here a conful, whofe chief buflnefs is to maintain a free ommunication between th(^ (hips of his country and ibis port. The kingdom of Tunis, the ancient Africa Proper, is ftuate between 6 and ii degrees of eaft longitude, and between 30 and 37 degrees of north latitude. it is bounded on the vicfl by the kingdom of Algiers, on the fouth by mount Atlas, and on the eaft and north by the Mediterranean; extending in length from north to fouth about four hundred miles, and in breadth, where largell, two hundred and fifty miles. The chief rivers are Guadilbarbar, the wcftern boundary; and Megarada, which runs through the middle of it; both rifing in mount Atlas, and dif- charging themfelves into the Mediterranean Sea. One of the chief towns is Cairoan, fituated on the caftern coaft ; faid to be the firft town the Saracens built, and the rcfidence of their fultans who had the dominion of Barbary. On the fame coaft, ninety miles fouth-eaft of Tunis, is fituated the town of Africa, fuppofed to be the Adrumatum of the ancients ; and twenty-five eaft of Tunis, ftands Sufa, the ancient Rufpina. Tunis, atprefent the capital of the kingdom, is fituated in 10 degrees 51 minutes of eaft longitude, and in 36 degrees 40 minutes of north latitude, in a fine plain^ near a fpaf-ious lake. It is a large populous city, and a place of fome trade. Thirty miles north of Tunis, on a peninfula formed by two bays of the Mediterranean fea, lies Carthage, or rather the place where it ftood ; for it is now only a mean village. Here .ire ftill fome marble ruins, and feveral arches of the aqucdufl, which conveyed water to the city from a fountain thirty miles diftant. Byferta, the ancient Utica, which was built before Carthage, is a port-town on the Mediterranean, fituate iu 9 degrtci of eaft longitude, and 37 ot north latitude. 7 The kingdom of Tripoli, including nirca, is bounded on the weft by Tunis, on the north by the Mediterranean, on the taft by Egypt, and on the fouth by Nubia and unknown parts of Africa. The country of Tripoli Proper has a fruitful foil ; but Barca is for the moft part a defart, thaugh it formerly was a con* fiderable territory annexed to Egypt. Hare ftood the I ancient temple of Jupiter Ammon, and the town of i Cyrene, whence fprung thofe philofophers diftinguiflicil by the title of the Cyrenaic kSt. The governments of Tunis and Tripoli refemble that of Algiers; only in the two former the gran J fignior has a bafttaw, who is consulted in matters of ftate, and collcdls the tribute demanded by the Porte. In refpeft to the original of thofe piratical ftates, it appears that the Moors of Spain, on being expelled that country, and tranfportcd to the coaft of Barbary, took ev«ry opportunity of revenging themfelves on the Spaniards, by taking their merchant ftiips, and plun- dering their towns on the coaft; which, being well acquainted with the country, they greatly molefted. To reftra.n thofo outrages, Ferdinand V. king of Arragon, fitted out a fleet in the year 1305; in which, Peter, count of Navarre, embarking with a body of land forces, he befiegcd and took the town of Oran,' on the coaft of Barbary, then inhabited by Moors who had been driven from Granada and Valencia. He afterwards made himfelf m.'fter of Bugia, and feveral other towns upoa the (ame coaft, with the fmall ifland which lies in the bay of Algiers; by which he ob- ftrudled the navigation of the Moorifti fliipping in that port, and filled the town with apptehenfions of being reduced under the dominion of the Spaniards. In this extremity, Selim, then fovereign of Algiers, having heard the fame of Batb.-irufta, the Turkifti corfair, fent to defire his afHftance againft the Spaniards. The pirate was cruizing in the Mediterranean when he received the invitation ; and being flattered witn the profpeA of the enterprize, difpatched eighteen gallies and thirty fmall b'rks to Algiers, marching hither by land bimfelf, with what forces he could aflemble on a fudden. The Algerines receiviag advice of his approach, marched out with Selim at their head, to welcome their deliverer; and having conducted him to the town, amidft the acclamations of the people, he was lodged in the prince's palace. This general joy however proved of fliort duration; for the pirate, who for many years had made no fcruple of feixing whatever came in his way, immediately formed a plan of ob- taining the fovere'gnty of the place. Having found means to alTaffinate Selim privately, he caufed himfelf to be proclaimed king, and maflacred all thofe who he imagined might oppofe his defigns. The greater part of the natives abandoned the city, leaving th« ufurper in the peaceable pofleftion of his conqueft ; but upon his promifing them prote£)ion, and the en- joyment of their former laws and liberties, they re- turned and acknowledged him their fovereign. Having fortified the place, however, and fccured his polTefnon, he treated them with all the feverity that might be expef^ed from a conqueror of the moft cruel difpofition (owaids thofe whom be had effedually fubdued. This Barbary.] G E N E R A r. TRAVELLER. ^57 Ttila tevolution h.ipponrrd at Al^it'r^ in 15T6, The foil of prince S':lin\ flyinj to Oraii tor proli-ilion, prcvaiki) on the Spaniards the year f('l!owin;^ to tit out a ftrong fleet, with an aiiny of ten thoul'and Und- hicn on board, to aflitl hi(n in tlic recovi-ry of his dominions i prominng, if he fucceedcd, to acknowledge the king of Spain as his fovcrcign. The ij;)ani(h fleet being arrived near Algiers, was difperfed 01 (hip- wrccked in a violent ilorm, and many uf the I'oices thit had efcaped the dangers of the fea, were either tut in pieces, or made flaves by the Turks. Barba- rufla, elated with this fuccefs, began to treat the Moors both in town and country with greater infolence than ever ; which fo far provoked the rell of the Moorifli princes, that they raifed a confederacy againft him. Having allembled ten thoufand horfc, with a good body of foot, and chofcn the king of Tcncz their general, they immediately proceeded in order to lay fiege to Algiers, Barbarulla receiving intelligence of their motions, marched out to meet them, with only a thoufand Turkifh mufqurteers, and five hundred Mocrs in whom he could confide. With this force he totally routed the confLdcrates, who being without fire arms, were foon thrown into diforder by the muf- quetecrs. The conqueror entering Tcnez, poflelTed himfelf of the throne of one of his rivals, who fled for fecurity to mount .^tlas. About the fame time an infurrefiion happened in the kingdom of Tramefcn, which lies to the wtft- waij; und the rebels heating of the great fuccefs of BarbarufTa, invited him to come and deliver them from the opprclTions which they alledi^ed to have fulFcied from their native fovereign. A mcflage fo agreeable to the ambitious Turk was received with the grcatcfl alacrity; and fending for a reinforcement of troops, and his artillery from Algierii, he fct out towards Tranififen, where by his fuperiority over a militia dei'itute of fire-arms, he foon obtained a complete Vifioryt The king of I'ramefen efcaped from the field of battle, but his traitorous fubjefts afterwards mur- dered him, and fent his head to the conqueror, who entered the city of Trcmcicn in triumph, and was proclaimed king. IVcmcfen being in the neighbourhood of Oran, he juflly apprehended that the Spaniards would not long permit him to enjoy hrs conquefls in quiet; on which account he entered into an alliance with Muley Hamet, king of Fez, the moll powerful of the African princes, an expedition been undertaken nicrecailyin the fcifon, in all probability it had fucccedcd, and Charles V. had added Africa to his empire, which was alre.\dy extended over the bed part of Europe and America Aft..r ilic death of Chcrcdin Barbarufla, the Otto- man princis governed the kingdom of Algitis by their bafhaws till the feventeenth century. At this tin.c . the janil'arics, or militia of the province, rcprefenting '< to the grand fignior the intolerable opprcflion of thofo j delegate!, which could not fail, if continued any longer, of exciting the Moors to revolt, they requclled the piivili'gc of ckiHing one of their officers, with the title ot dcy, to be their govcrnori promifing not only to acknowledge the grand fignior fc" their fovcreign, but to railc fupplies fufficient to maintain their forces, | which would lave the Porte an immenfe charge. The i requell being granted, they appointed adey; by a fuc- I ceffion of which cle£live magidrates the country has | ever fince been governed. In no part of the world, however, are there to frequent inftances of the people's depofing and murdering their princes. Thofe fovcteigns reign with abfolute authority for a few year.'!, months, or weeks i and fometimes a few hours put an end both to their dominion and their lives. Hardly any of them dies a natural death j affording each an example of the precarious exiflence of th^t power which is conferred by a fludluating and capri- cious foldiery. At prefcnt the Algerines are entirely independent of the Ottoman court, and ,-icknowledgc the grand fignior in no other capacity than as he is the head of their religion. According to the conflitutioo of this country, a dey ought to be cleiEied by the Turkifli militia without one diflcnting voice. When t!ie throne is vacant, the fjldieiy alfemble at the palace, and the agm or chief cjfliccr demands who fhall be their dey. Each calls out the name of the pcrfon to whom he is moft at tached ; but when they difagree in the choice, they renew the ceremony, till they pitch upon one who is univcrfally approved. It is not uncommon, however, for th: clc£tion to be carried by violence; and in tliufc contentions many are killed and wounded. It may well be imagined that the janifaries, in whom the right of elcdlion refides, are fuiliciently tonfcious of their own importance in the flate. Every private foldier of this body has the title of efTendi, or lord, and demands a refpefl from the natives not in- feiier to that which is ufually paid to a prince, 'I'hcy are cxcnipted from all taxes and duties, and feldom punifhcd for any crimes, except thufc againft the Itaic Nor is any juftice to be obtained againll them, where 7 the native Moors, Ar^bs, Chriflians, or Jews, we one C)f the parties concerned. All of thole denomi- nations lithcr fly the (treets, w'l.n ihey lee a j.inif.iry coming, or (land clofe up to the wall in the molt a- fpciSll'ul pofture, till he palFcs, What adds to the inrportance of this body, is that out of it all officer* iit the kingdom, whether civil or military, are chofen. 'I'hofe j,inifaries who are unmarried, have the gre.iteft privileges. Tliey are lodged in fpacious houlcs pro* vid'd at the public charge, attended by flaves, and aie entitled to have thiir ptovifions one third under the market-price, cxclufive of their pay, and a largf allowance of bread. The married men enjoy not thole advantages, but nre obliged to find their own houfes, and provifion for their families out of their pay. One leal'un allcdged for this dillinclion, is becauli: the go- vernment is entitled to all the cflaic and effects of thofe that die, or are curried into flavery without children, but the principal is, that the maiiied mca are fuppofed to have mote regard to the natives wi'.ll whom they are connefiid by alliance, than the un- married foldiers. P'or the fame reafon the foils of married janifaries are not allowed the privileges of natural I'urks, or even preferred tn any office under government. On account of thofe difcouragementa hardly any janifaries marry, unlcfs the renegadoes that are admitted amongft them, who are not very numerous. They all are allowed, however, to purchnfe female flaves, and keep as many concubines as they pleafe*, without any reflraint. The grcatefl crime here next to treafon, if it be not: held of the fame nature, is the exprelfing any companion or tcndei'iiefs for the natives. In feveral parts of the country, however, Moorifh troops are employed, who afiifl in opprefling their fellow- fubjefls, and levying the tributes the dey impofes, Notwithilanding the tyranny excrcifed by the Turks over the Moors and Arabs, yet if any Chriftian power threaten an in- vafion, the opprelFed inhabitants unite their forCM with the Turks in repelling the attempt; dreading the government of ChriAians more than the ufurpations of thofe of the fame faith with themfelvcs. The Europeans trade with I'unis and Tripoli for corn, oil, wool, foap, dates, oltrich feathers, and fkins of wild and tame beafts; but one of the principal branches of their commerce is flaves. The European Chriftians taken by their piratical fhips they fct very high ranfoms upon, ot force them to ferve at fca and land in all forts of employment and drudgery. They have alfo fome traffic for negro fla«es to the fouthward. Their camels they ufually fell in Egypt, and their fine horfes to the I'lench. Their commerce, however, is inconfidcrable in refpefl of their piracies, by which they are furnifbed with every maiiufailurc of KuroiH;; and for the goods thus obtained, their biokcrs are Jews, who are very numerous in all the towns of Batbary, and maintain a trade not only with the in- land country, but with foreign nations. The north coaft of Alrica wni doubtlefs peopled from Afia, from which it is feparated only by the illhinus of Suez and the Red Sea; b'Jt the Phcenicians or inhabitants of Tyre feem to have preceded all other naticns Barbarv.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. '59 rations in reniiing hither colonics, 7'he fiid town they built on the U^irbary coall was L'tica, afterwards called Dyforta; near which runt the river Bagarda or B.igr.idas, where We arc informed that Atilius Ri-qiiIus, and lii'i whole army, attacked wiih warlike engines, and fl'W a ferprnt, which nieafurcd a hundicd and twenty fuot in length. Cartilage isfuppofcd to have heen built much later than Utica, namely, in the year of the world 3120, before the building of Rome a hundred and thirty-five years, and ei^ht hundred and eighty-three before the birth of Chrif^. This celebrated city, the grand rival of Komr, is faid to have been founded by Dido or Elifa, a I'yrian princefs, who flying hither to avoid the ra- pacity of her brother Pygmalion, king of Tyre, pur- chafed lands of the natives at this place, within three leagues of L'tica, where a colony of Tyrians had al- ready fettled. At this time, it is probable, the terri- tory of Carthage was comprehended within very narrow limits, till gradually incrcafing in power by the great extent of their commerce, the inhabitants ftreCched their dominion as far as the Atlantic Ocean. The firll war in which wc And the Carthaginians engaged, was occafioned by their rcfufing to pay the annual tiibute due to the prince of the country for the lands which they pofTefl'ed. Proving unfuccefsful in this cunteft, they were obliged to relinquifh their claim, till after procuring frvfb fupplies and reinforce- ments from Tyre, they not only again aflerted their independency, but enlarged their territories. The next war of this growing republic was with the city of Cyrene, which ftood between Carthage and Egypt, in that part of the country now called Earca, This war arofe from a difputc about the limits of their refpcclive territories^ for determining which it was at laft agreed, th^t two men fhould fet out at the fame I'.iiji fi.ni cither city, and that the place where they }K<]>{«nK'J to inret llioulJ be fixed as the boundary of the <.-o!u>.iid»)g ll-.:es. The two Carthaginians pitched iim'ii for ihis fcrvice were brothers, named Philteni, v'Mi bein;; fwif i of foot than their adverfaries, the Cvr! .':t, BuiiiilcAi, their general, fomented an infurreftiun in tli; ciiy, with the view of r.-ifiii^i himfcif to the fovc- rcign powtr i but being defcricJ by hii party, he fuf- fcrcd a criitl and ignominious death. The fuppreflion of this rebellion was fuon followed by the railing of f!ic ficge, in confequence of a mif- underllandiiig between Agathocics and his allies; alter which the Carthaginians recovered all the places they had loft, and again cflabliftted their empire over the Afiican princes. Sicily, as weW as Italy, being threatened with .in thoufand fouls; and there was found in il four hundred and feventy thoufand pound weight of filver, biridi.'s what was plundered by the piivatc foldicrs, and buried in the ruins, 7'hc charadifr of the Carthaginians is faid to have been ftrongly tindlurcd with craft, covetoufnefs, and treachery; infomuch that Punic Faith became a pro- verbial phrafe at Rome. It muft however be acknow- ledged, that they had a great genius fur navigation and foreign commerce; and the bravery, as well as mili- tary fkill, which they difplayed in the fcveral wars with the Romans, afford evident proof that their capa- city was not confined to the arts of peaceful indullry invafion by Pyrrhtis, king of Epirus, the Carthaginians i alone. renewed their confederacy with the Romans, for the j The religion of the Carthaginians appears to have prefcrvation of their territories in ihatifland, Pyrrhus, been the fame with that of the Canaanites or Phcenicians, notwithftanaing this alliance., made a defccnt with ] from whom they defcended. That they worfllipped his forces in Sicily, and reduced all the towns belong- | a multitude of deities is obvious from the preamble of ing to the Carthaginians, except Lilybxum ; but this ! a treaty concluded between them and Philip of Macudon, pi.ice making a vigorous defence, and the Romans ' reciting that the cnmpafl was made in the prefcnce of gaining fume advantages over his forces in Italy, he i Jupiter, Juno, and Aprllo; in the prcfence of the was forced to return thither, after abandoning all his ' demon or genius of Carthage; in the prefcnce of Her- conqucfts in the ifland. cules. Mars, and Neptune, and all the confederate The alliance between the Carthaginians and the I gods of Carthage; in the prcfence of the fun, moon, Romans, which had been renewed, fubfifted only I earth, rivers, meadows, fc''. The gods which they a fhort time after this epoch. It is not impro- i chiefly invoked, hovt'cver, wfre the moon (called bablc that the latter, now become the nncontrouled ' CoeleAis, and fumctJmes Urania) and Saturn, named fovereigns of Italy, begin to think of enlarging their ! Moloch in facred hiflory. To the latter they facriliccd empire by foreign conqucfts ; and that they had for j their children, fomctimes burning them in a brazen fomc years caft their eyes on the fruitful ifland of , (latuc of Saturn, heated for that purpofc; founding Sicily, fcparated from the continent by a narrow ftrait, | at the fame time drums and trumpets, that the cries of A favourable opportunity fixed their attention on this objccl. Some Sicilian rebels Seizing on the important city of Meflina, and o/Tering to deliver it up to the Romans, they accepted the propofal, and immediately ft;H over a reinforcement of troops to fupport the in- furrefiion. This incident occafioned the war between the Romans and Carthaginiajs, ufually called the iirft Funic war, which began four hundred and eighty- eight years after the building of Rome. To this war fucceeded two others, the mofl furious and obflinate that are recorded in hillory, and in thecourfe of which it was long doubtful whether Rome or Carthage would the viiElims might not be heard. It was confidered as a meritorious piece of heroifm in their mothers to nSHi at thofc facrifices with dry eyes, and without the leaft fymptom of regret, the offering not being thought ac- ceptable to Saturn, if made with any reluctance. But as the moft violent fuperftition could nut perfeClly reconcile their minds to the horror of thofc unnatural rites, they were ufually contented with making their children pafs through the fire ; :n which their miferable offspring frequently perifhed. In great calamities, however, they aftually burnt them, choofing for this purpofc the mofl beautiful and noblcft youths of the reign the miftrefs of the world; till at lafl, the forces \ nation ; and on thofe occafions, they have facrificed of the latter were totally vanquifhed, and the city de- llroyed, in the fix hundred and ninth year after th? building of Rome, and before the Chriftian xta a hundred and forty-flx years. According to the defcription of Carthage by ancient writers, it was fituated on three hills in a peninfula, almuft furrounded by the lea. It meafured in circum- ference twenty-two miles, and contained two harbours within its works; one lo.' r.en of war, and the other for merchant vcfTels. On the ifthmus flood the citadel, called Byrfa, defended by a triple wall, and towers at proper diftances, The walls were two ftories high, built upon arches. In the lower arches, were kept three hundred elephants, with their provifions and warlike accoutrements; and in the upper arches were ftorc houfes and flablc: for four thoufand horfe, and barracks for twenty thoufand foot. When the Ro- mans invelled the city, it contained feven hundred children to their deity from morning till night. The civil conftitution of Carthage is now but im- perfciElly known. The chief magiflrates in the com- monwealth were the two fufFetes, faid to rcfemble the Roman confuls, and fometimes ftyled kings. They were defied annually, but by whom is uncertain. I'hey not only alTembled the fenate, and prcfided in it, but had fometimes the fupreme command in military as well as civil affairs. At the expiration of their ofEce, they became pretors of couife, retaining henceforth the privilege of propofing new laws, and of calling both the judges and the ofitcers of the revenue to an account. The fenate confifted of men of the ftrfl quality; but whether they held their feats by cledlion or inheritance, or what their number wac, it docs not appear any farther than that feveral hundreds enjoyed this dignity, 1'he fenate was the laft rcfort in all appeals. Here laws were framed, ambaflitdors had their audience, and '//f^ ./ftf/'f/ f>/ ft '/■"' ■-; a^tr4bout eight hundred miles in length from north to fouth, and generally between two and thre di^rcct ol foiilh latitude | l/inj; in the All.uvlic C)cc.im, aliout three hiiiuIri.J mil filiy leagues well of the conO of Alrir.i, It r'nil'ills •I' a congeries of rockn, near twenty niilci in cirtiiin- fcrence, and to t\\e windward utterly iiucccliibL*. I'he natural foil is red, friable, and relcinbles aOirs | (rtim which circumftancei, and the cxidence of fulpliur in many of the clilTs, fomc have conjeflurcd th^t it has once been the feat of a volcano. The foil i« generally thin i but in fome of tlie valleyi it is now become near two fuot deep, and very fertile. The inhabitants have not hitherto been able to raife wheat, though of late years they have cultivated barley with fuccefs. Their gardens produce yain<, plantains, bananas, water-melons, French bean;, and fevenil kinds of wholfome herbs. The fruits of the ifland are oranges, lemons, apricots, peaches, pome- granates, and apples. Vines have alio been intro- duced, that yield excellent grapes, but which have not yet been treated fucceftfully in any of the attempts to make wine. Here is a guoJ fljck of bl.u-lc cattle, (keep, goats, and hogs, with a breed of fpiritcd little horfes, admirably fuitcd to the rugg?J roads. 'F'hcrc is >lfo plenty of domeftic fowl, fuch as tuikeys, gccli-, ducks, 5cc. with pheafants, partridges, woodcuclcs, and a number of fea birds. The chief fupport of the natives, however, is derived from the filh, wiiich are excellent and of various kinds. Here are no bcails or birds of prey, nor any venomous creatures) but the ifland is exceedingly infelled with rats and mice. One of the principal advantages of St. Ilolena is, that it abounds in excellent water Aieiniin^; from the rocks, and conveyed in rivulets througli ctrery pirt of the ifland. After heavy rains, inJecJ, the water is apt to be a little brackifli, occaflont-d by the file in- crufted on the rocks } but by collcLling tlu- water in cifterns when the weather is mllJe.'}, tlils incon- venience is avoided. The Englifli Eaft Imlla Company fettled this ifland in the laft century, for the convenience of affording refreflsments to their fhips, cfpecially thofe that arc homeward-bound. The moO cnmnuullous landing- place is in Chapel or James's Valley, where is a little town, confifting of between fit'tv and fixty houfes, which with a fmall church, and a d.ycllint; f*^' the governor, were built at the Company'^ e^pcnce with niateriJs fcnt from England aboiic four and twen-y years ago, Moft of the houfes are u.'ed as places of public entertainment v/hcn the ihipping arrive, In the other parts of the ifland the houfv-:; are generally fituatcd in little valleys between theciifF-; ^nd the number of families is computed to be about a hundred and fifty. All the landing-places are fecured by bat- teries of heavy cannon, and in James's Valley is a ftrong fort, ufually garrifuned by about throe huiulrcd men. Afccnlon Ifland is fituate in 8 degrees of fouth lati- tude, two hundred leagues north-weft of St. Helena, and ib about ten !:r.gue$ in circumference. It is uU moft entirely deftitute of vegetable produce ; but the European vefli:ls ufually call bera in their way from India, i-yl^ /f.^/iUn^f r- /S'/S; ^7fx icr^tj /frn^t) 4 ItLANDi.] GENERAL i' R A V K L L E R. India, to rrfiefti thtmi'c' '* with turtle, whidi ilic 163 rmd on ihu fliurc in grrai plenty. The Klinil ot St. Mitlhew ii fituitc in 2 djgreo of foulh littiiudc, > huiulred lengiiei north-eall of Afccn- lion, und h nbuiit right Ic.iguej in ciriunirerence. 'I'hik illiiid w.ii dilcovereil by the Poriugmie, who occupied it for Ibmc tiinci but afterwards withdrawing their colony, Ihv place hai ever fince been uninhabited t and contain) nothing that cai> invite navig.ilort, except a fnull Ukc of frefli water. , Annnbon ik likewife fituate in 2 degrees of foulh latitude, two hundred miles weftward of Congo, and is nearly ten leagues in circumference. It is geiicr.illy mountainous, and abounds in cattle, ho^ii, poultry, oranges, cocoa-nuts, and other tropical fruits, with Indian corn and rice, Moll of the inhabitants are negroes, who either have been imported, or are the defcendants of others formerly brought from the con- tinent of Africa. The Portuguefe difcovcred thif idand in 1571, and h.ive Hnce continued to pofll-fs it. There is a convenient road for (hips on the lee-fiJe of the iflaml. The Ifland of St. Thomas is fituate under the equator, in 8 degrees of call longitude. It is of a round figure, about forty leagues in circumference, and was difcovcred by the Portuguefe in ti. fame year with the preceding. It is well fupplied with wood and water, and in the middle is a high mountain, the top of which is almoft conftantly covered with cloudi. The heat and moifture of the air render it extremely unhealthful to northern conftitutions j but the Portuguefe, with the negroes and mulattoes, who inhabit it, are faid to live to a great age. Here is plenty of corn, rice, and fruits, with a good deal of fugar-cane) and the Portuguefe have alfo introduced the cinnamon-tree. The chief town on the ifland is called St. Thomas, containing live or fix hundred houfes, and is the fee of a bilhop. Princes Ifland is fituate in a degree* of north lati- tude, about forty leagues north-eaft of St. Thomas, and as muc o the wellward of the continent of Africa, It atrords rice, Indian corn, fruits, roots, and herbs. Cattle, hogs, and goats, are alfo in great plenty; but the chief commodity is fugar- canes. The Ifland of Fernando Po is fituate ^ degrees 30 minutes of north latitude, ten leagues to the weft- ward of the continent. It is about thirty miles long and twenty broad ; inhabited by the fame fort of people, and producing the fame commodities with the two iflands laft mentioned. The Dutch finding them conveniently fituated for trade, and affording plenty of provifions, twice attempted to drive the Portuguefe from St. Thomas, and at laft fucceeded in the enterprise. But almoft all their men dying, they abandoned their conqueft, and the Portuguefe have fince remained in the peaceable poflfeffion of thofe iflands ; at one or other of which they ufually call for rrfrcfliments in their voyages to and from India, and in tlieir paflage from Bracil to Africa. The Cape Verd Iflands are fituate between 13 and 37 degrees of weft longitjde, and between 13 and 19 degrees of north latitude. The number of them is ten, lying about four hundred miles weft of Caps Vcrd in Africa, and fubjckl In Portugal. The Canary Iflands, coiififtint; of (cMtn, are fituate between 11 and 21 digrcfs of wi-ft longitude, and between 27 and 29 degrees of north latitude, in tho Atlantic Ucean ) the moft cafterly of them being about a hundred and fifty miles from Cape Non, on the coaft of Uiledulgerid. 'I'hcy were formerly called tho Fortunate Iflands, not only on account of the fertility of the foil, but the temperature of the air, which, notwithftnnding the natural warmth of the climate, is coiiflontly refreflied by c(H)I breezes from the fca. They had been difcovcred by the Carthaginians, but were afterwards unknown for many ages, till again difcoverrd by the Spaniards, In 1405. I'crro, the moft weftcrly, is about fcven leagues in circumference. This ifland is generally mountainous i but there are feveral valleys abounding in paflure, corn, a variety of fruits, and fugar-canei. It is however deftitute both of fprings and rivers, and the inhabi- tants are obliged either to bring their frefh water from the neighbouring iflands, or preferve it in cifterns at the time of the rains. After the difcovery of this ifland, it was made the firft meridian by moft nations, till they chofe to begin their computation from their refpedlive capitals. Palma is nearly of the fame extent as Ferro, from which it is diftant between thirty and forty miles north, and affords the excellent kind of wine ufually called Palm fack. Gomera, which is fituated about thirty miles eafl; of Ferro, abounds in corn and fruit, but has not much wine Sixty milt: eaft of Ferro, lies TeneriflT, computed to be in circumference a hundred and twenty miles. This ifland likewife abounds in corn, wine, and fruit; but fome parts of it are rocky and mountainous. The Peak of TenerllF is efteemed one of the higheft mountains in the world. It i^ al6ut two miles per- pendicular height, rifing in the form of a fugar-loaf, and may be feen at fea more than a hundred miles diftance. Some Englilh gentlemen who had the curi- ofity to vifit this amazing mountain, inform us, that having fet out from Oratavia, one of the principal towns in the ifland, they pafled over feveral rugged hills and fandy plains in their way to the foot of the Peaks where they found huge mafles of rock, that feem to have tumbled down from the fummlt. When they had afcended the mountain about a mile, they weret jliged to quit their horfts, and climb up the hill on foot} and having traverfed a fteep black rock about a mile, they reached the top of it, which was perfe£lly flat. The air here was fo cold, that they found it neceflary to keep great fires all night. Next morning they proceeded to that part of the mountain called the Sugar-Loaf, which is exceeding fteep ; and the foil being a deep fand, it was difficult to pafs over. On reaching near the top of the Peak, the wind was very high, and their faces were fcorched by the conftant breathing of a hot fulphurous vapour which iftued from the hill. The top of the Peak WW 164 II M O D li R N lAfuicA. wsi occupied by • Urge bifon, or crtler, above ■ mulket-Oiot over, and four yarda dcrp) the brim, on which they lluuj, bciiiK not above a yard broad. In thii cavity were linall loufc Itoiici, mixed with Tulphur and fand, which fent out a hot ruflbcating llcam. About two ihirdi of the wny up (he moun- tain there wai a great deal u( fiiuw nnd ice, but none on the top t which they afcribed to the heat that iflurd rrotn the crater. From the top to the foot of the mountain, thry found neither Oirubi nor treei, except a few pines. There is reafun tu conclude that this mountain has once been a volcano. F«r three or four miles round the bottom, the ground ii almoll covered with calcined rocks{ and from the Peak to the fuuth-weft, almoA at far as the (bore, arc feen the traAs of the lava, or the brimftone and melted or« that ran that way. Some of the calcined rocks re- fenible iron -ore i and towards the fouth-weft are high mountains of a bluifli earth, with (lonea which are covered with a yellow ruft. I'here are alfo fevetal iireams of water, evidently impregnated with vitriol. In I 704, there happened in this idand an eruption of fome volcanos, accompanied with a moft terrible earthquake, by which whole towns were fwallowed up, and many thoufands of the inhabitants periflied. The principal town of this ifland is St. Chriftopher's, the feat of the viceroy. It (lands partly on the ftde of a hill, partly on a plain, and has two parifli churches, with fevcral convents, hofpitals, and cha- pels. The houfes of people of condition have large gardens and orchards of palms, citrons, and other iruitsi aud the adjacent country abounds with vine- yards. The ifland called the Grand Canary, or Canary Proper, lies about thirteen or fourteen leagues fouih- caft of TenerifF, in 15 degrees 50 minutes of well longitude, and between 27 and 28 degrees of north latitude. It is about fifty leagues in circumference, and is a more level and fruitful country than the preceding. The chief town, called Palma, and by Tome Canaria, is (ituated in the north part of the iiland, at a little diftance from the fea. It is a large, clean, pleafant town, and enjoys a ferene, temperate air i being lihewife the refidence of the governor, and the fee of a bifliop. Here is a beautiful cathedral, richly adorned, befides feveral other churches and convents. The country abounds in corn, wine, fruits, cattle, game, fifli, fowl, and fine paftures. The fields alfo aiFord a great variety of flowers, and the groves echo with the mufic of thofe birds, called from this ifland the Canary birds. Kcrl.iuntiira, or the Ifliind of (lu.^il l-'urluni*, is fituairil I'lturrii (he Cirsnd Can.iry and the continent of Afiii'ii, ^iiiil is liaiylive miles in length, hut of a very iuci^iiUr breadth. This iflanJ allbrds liiile or no winv, but abounds in corn, fruits, ciiiile, fill), and f.>wl I Slid cliirny in goatH, whi>.h is the principal food of the inhubitinls. Lancrrota lies a little to the northward of Kor(a« veniiir.1, tii which it is fimibr in refjied of its pro> diice, l)iit niiicli inferior in fit'. On the difcovery of thofe ifl.inJj, about the year 140;, the Iking of Cafliie granted ihi property of three of them to John de I^etancour, a French gentle- man in his fervice, who rcfided there during the re- niaiiiJcr of his life, as fovereign of the Canaries. liut the pudctity of Uetancour religning them to the crown of Catlile, all the Canary Iflands have finca continued in the pofllflioii of the Spani^irds, The rich wines in which they abound are the princip.tl article of exporiatiuii; and of thofe, it is cumputed, ten thoufand hojiheads are annually fent to Britain in time of pence. About a hundred leagues well of Morocco, in the Atlantic Ocean, lie the Madeiras, confiding of fevcral ftnall iflands, the chief of which is Madeira Proper, Atuate in 18 degrees of weft longitude ( and between 3a and 33 degrees of north latitude. This ifland, which has the appearance of having been produced by fubtrrraiieous fire, in fome remote period, is about a hundred and twenty miles in circumference, and ncaily of a tiiangular fliape. It is faid to have been difcovercd by an Engliih gentleman in 1344, and conquered by the Portuguefe in 1431. 1 he wooils being burnt down, and the foil made fruitiul by the aflies, it was afterwards planted with vines, which hitherto continue to be the chief produce of the ifland. The country is agreeably divcrnfied with little hills and valleys, which are watered by many fmall rivu- lets. The chief town is Funchal, fituatcd on a bay of the fea on the fouih-eall part of the ifland. It it the refidence of a biOlop, and has a cathedral, with three parifh- churches, befides feveral chapels and con- vents in the city, which is the refidence of the gover* nor. This ifland produces incredible quantities of wine, which has the peculiar good quality, that it keeps bed in the warmed weather, and the hotteft climates, where other wines turn four. The adjacent iflands are fmall, and produce little winei but are fubje£l, as well as the principal one, to the crown of Portugal. • ^„itl:l»« .■>i»" , jrjFJI -,i l ■' '■ ■:. t>i.,i)i.' '. I ....,; ■it ii:»t ■ i ,(.1 •rfi li ti EUROPE. I •! !■•(»! I 1 ■ ■< t:' ;' 10I Tu«KY.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 165 u R i. QUITTIKO Africi, we ptTi over into Europe, Mother of the four great divifiont of the terra- qu(oui globe I a quarter diftinguiffied not only by the temperature of iti climates in general, but by the civilised (lata of the inhabitanti, whofe progrefi in the cultivation of the arti and fcicncei ii unexampUd in the hiftory of mankind. Europe ii bounded on the fouth by the Mediterranean Seat on the weft by the Atlantic Ocean 1 on the north by the Frosen Ocean, part of the Atlantic) and on the Eaft by Afia, from which it it feparated by the Archipelago, or Egean Sea t the flrait of the Hellefpont, or Dar- danelleit the Proponti), or Sea of Marmora 1 the Ettxine, or filaclc Sea; the Palus Mcotii, or Sea ql Afoph| the river Doit or I'anaii, and a lini drawn thence to the river Tobol, tliat joint th« rivers Irtii and Oby, the united flrcams of which fall into the Froten Ocean, between Europe and Afiatic Tiirky. The continent of this quarter is fituale between 10 degree* of weft, and 65 degrees of eaft longit dei and between 36 and 71 degrees of north latitude] being three thoufand miles in length, and two thoufand five hundred in breadth. It contains the following countries, vie. Turky in Europe, the dominion* of Hungary and Bohemia, Germany, Po> land, Ruflia, Sweden, Denmark and Norway, the Netherland*, France, Switzerland, Italy, Spain, Por- tugal, Great Britain, and other idandi. We begin with Turkjr in Europe, TURKY I N EUROPE. CHAP. I. "I ' Of tht Jhuat'ion—'mtMiila'mt—rivtrs—Crim Tartar ji—^ LIttli Tartary — Budziac Tartar^ — pirftnif drtft, maHHtr if lift, and gtvtrnmtnt tf tht Tartan. TURKY in Europe i* fituate between 17 and 40 degrees of eaft longitude, and between 34 and 49 degrees of north latitude, being about a thou- fand miles in length, and nine hundred in breadth. It is bounded on the north by RulTia, Poland, and Sclavonia ; on the eaft by Circaflia, the Black Sea, the Propontis, Hellefpont, and Archipelago; on the fouth by the Mediterranean ; and on the weft by the fame fea, and the Venetian and Auftrian territories. It includes the provinces of Romania, Bulgaria, Servia; Bofnia, Ragufa, Wallachia, 'loldavia, BeiTarabia, Budziac and Ocxakow Tartary, Crim and Little Tartary, Albania, Epirus, Macedonia, ThelTaly, and all the ancient Greece, with its numerous iflands in the Archipelago, The chief mountains are, i. The Iron-gate moun- tains, which in p.irt divide the Turkifli provinces of Moldavia and Wallachia from Tranfilvania. 2. The mountains of Rhodope or Argentuin, anciently facred to Mars, becaufe reputed to be the place of his nati- vity. They run almoft from the Gulph of Venice No. 14. to the Euxine Sea, dividing Romania from Scrvia, 3, Mount Athos, now cillrd Monte Santo, a pro- montory abutting on the Arcliipelago, or Egenn Sea, fo high that, according to I'hucydides and Virgil, it throws its fhadow into the ifland of Lemnos, forty- five miles to the eaft of it. 4. Chimera, a mountain in Albania. 5. The celebrated Parnaflus and Helicon in Achaia, now Livadia : Pcliun and OITa in Attica. The principal rivers are, 1 . I'hc Nieper, or Borif- thenes, which rife* in the middle of Mufcovy, runs weft by Smolenflco, then running fouth through Po- land, pafles by Mohiluw, beyond which it enters the Ruffian Ukrain, pafling by Kiof and Circaflia, and continues its courfe fouth-eaft, feparating Little Tar- tary from Budziac Tartary, and falling into the Black Sea, near Oczakow. On this river the old ColTacs inhabit, who frequently crofs the Black Sea, and plunder the maritime places on the coaft of Turky. 2. Bog, a river of Poland, which runs fouth-eaft through the province of Podolia and Budziac Tartary, falling into the Euxine Sea, between Oczakow and the mouth of the Nieper. 3. Niefter, which rife* near Lemburg in Poland, and running fouth eaft, divide* Podolia in Poland from Moldavia in Turky; and afterward* feparating BelTarabia from Budziac Tartary, fall* into the Black Sea near Belgorod. 4. Pruth, a river that hat it* fourcc in the province it tf ti6 THE MOD N [r.VBC'Pr, of Red Rullia in Poland, and running fouth-cafl I'alus Mxotib and tlic livcr Dun, on the Tuuth ly through Moldavia, difchargcs itfclf into the Danube, the Blacic Sea, and on the weft by die liver Niiji^r 5. Danube, This river, which U one of the fincll \ or fiurilihenes, in Europe, rifes in the Blaclc Foreft in tlic province ' The town of Precop, called by the natiws Hor of Siiabia, in the fouth-weil ff Gcn.-pny: running j Capi, itands on the illhmus which uniies Crim to norlh'Ca;'^ through Suabia, it viilf Ulm, the .-apital} | Little 7°artary, It is a wretched poor place, cun- whence dircfling its courfe eaftw.-.rd, it ri'iis throu^-.h ! fillini; of Tartar huts. The natives have here call Bavaria and Auftria, paflii.g by Ratifbon, Paflau, Enj, 1 up an enircnchmenc acrofs the ilthmus, to defend and Vimna ; then eni.il.'';; (lungary, it runs fuuth ' , ihcm agaiiift the Rufllansj but notwithllandmg this eaft from Prefburg to Buda, and thence to Belgrade; obflatk, the RulTians, in the years 17^8 and 1739, niter •.vhich it divides Bulgaria from Walachia and H'>ldavia, an^ difchargcs itklf by fcvcral channels int.'> the Black Sea, through the province of Bell'.irubia. made two holiilc irruptions into the country, which they plundered of all that they could remove. Uudziac Tartary is fituated between Riiflia on the It is. fo deep between Uuda and Belgrade, that the . north ; the river Nicptr, which feparatcs it from rcifjhbouring powem frequently have fleets of men of i Little Tartary on the call; the Euxine or Blaclc Sea war upon it i but below the latter, the catarai£ls j on the fouth ; and on the weft by the riirer Niefler, render it unnavigable to the Black Sea; and it is alfo . which divides it from Beflar-.bia. 'I'he chief towns are Zc. 'la and Oczakow. The latter is a fea-port, fituated an the Euxine i'ca, to the wcflward of the rivers Niep.-r and Bog, '.n 35 degrees of ealt longitude, and 46 degrees c»" north latitude. The inhabitants ot thofe countries arc of "a (hort fquare make, with their nofes and faces flat, '{"hey iiave generally tawny complexions, and their eyes lie remarkably deep, but are very piercing. The clo.ith* of the common people are made of Iheep.lkins with the wool on; but their chiefs are cloathed ;•» furs, girt about ihcm with a leathern girdle. The dicfa of the women differs not much fiom that of the men, only their veils arc longer, and they wear drawers which reach down to the heels. Their heads arc covered with a handkerchief, and their hair hangs down upon their fhoulders. The Tartars, like the Scythians their anccflors, lead a wandering life ; removing their families from place to place, in waggons, as they arc prompted ! either by novelty, or a change of pafturc for their obftrui'.ttd by feveral catara^ls above Buda. 6. Save, a river which rifing in Carinthia, runs eaftward through Carniola and Croatia, and continuing its courfe fouth-eaft, forms the boundary between Scla- vonia and Turky, d fchargiiig itfclf into the Danube at Beljjrade. 7. Ahuta, which rir..:g in the province of Tranfilvania, runs fouth. and forms part of the boundary between Chriftendom and Turky; after vhich, continuing its courfe in the fame dire£lion through Walachia, it difchargcs itfeif into the Danube, almoft oppofite to Nicopolis, 8. Unna, a river of Bofni.1, whicli running from fouth to north through that province, and afterwards rolling eaftward b.-twcen Croatia and Bofnia, falls into the Save, and forms likewife part of the boundary between Chriftendom and Turky. g. Drinc, which running through Albania, falls into the Gulph of Venice. 10. Morava, a river that rifing in the mountain 0/ Rhodope or Argentuni, runs north through Servia, by Niffa, and falls into the Danube at Semcndrii, to the eaftward of Belgrade. 11. Mariza, which emerging in Bui- j cattle. When they fix for a confiderable time, they gatia, runs fouth, palling by Adr'anoplc, aud falls erc£l mean huts of wood and turf. They feldom into the Archipelago rear the Dardanelles, ! apply thcmfelves to hufbandry, e.Tting very little Crim Tartary, the ancient Taurica Cherfo.iefus, is a peninfula lying on ;he north par: of the Black ?ca, by which it is bcunded on eery fide, except bread} and prcfei horfe-flefli fo all oilier food. They are very hofpiiaolf, and will not fuflcr a traveller to pay any thinr tor thr fubfiftcnce either of himfelf or where a narrow ifthmus joins it to the continent on | his hcrfc , but -licy thankfully receive a fmall prcfcnt the north. It is fitua'.e between 33 and 37 degrees ! of tobacco or i;)irits in return, K'ing of the Maho- of eaft longiiude, ar,d between 44 p'-J 46 degrees of | metan religion, they are allowed is niai.y wives ai { the Turks, and tne chief men a nun:; them have north lititudc. The chief towns of this province arc Bachaferai, r-jmbcis of women and eunuehs in ihcir Omilie^j the capital, and Kaft'a ; the latter of which is fituncd , but perfons of inferior rank ufually confine thcmlelves in the north-eaft part of the peninfula, in 37 deg-ecs ' to one woman. of eaft longitude, and 44 degrees 55 minutes north latitude. It has a bride foreign trade, and is the Left built town in the country, having been many years fubje£l to the Genoefc. The Chriftian churches arc nioftly converted into mofques, or fold by the Turks to the Greek and Armenian Chriflians. This town gives rame to the ftraits which lead to th'; Palus Mxotis, Little Tartary is fituated north of Crim Tartary, between 34 and 40 degrees of eaft longitude, and between 46 and 48 degrees of north latitude. It is bounded on the north by RufTia, on the eaft by the The Tartars arc governed by a cham, who is pro- perly no more than the viceroy of the grand fcitrnior, on whom he is entirely dcpciiJent. When the Otto- man emperor is at w.ir, tho chani is obliged to join his army with a hundred thoufand troops, wlio are allowed no pay, but fublift by the plunder vv lieh t,. / make in their incurfKuis into the enemy '1 en-ntry. Upon the firft advice they receive of a war d,!i;ned againft the Chriftians, they prepare for the field with great alacrity, and repeat a fliort prayer fur the fuccefs of their expedition, particularly rei|uclti'ig, th.it they may take great numbers of ilavcs, u.autiful girh and boys, TURKY.1 GENERAL TRAVELLER. 167 boyi, with other booty; to all which petitions, their wives never fail to fay ?'"?".. When they have ac- coutred thciiifilvcs in their armour, and provided their bags of flour, they immediately mount their horfes, and march to the plat ^ of rendezvous. Every perfon for the mod part take! with h'n two or three horfen, to bring home his Haves r.id plunder, or to remount him in cafe of neccility. If any horfe dies, the owner invites his friends to feaft on the fleflt of the animal. When the cham joins the Turkifli army, it is ufual for the commander of the latter to order fome hundreds of oxen, and Icveral thoufand Iheep, to be roafted for the entertainment of the Tartars; but this is the only meal with which they are treated during the whole campaign. Till fuch time as they can fupply themfelves with food by depredations on the enemy, they live upon their own talcan or bag of flour, which they carry with them, fafle.ied behind their faddles; mixing it occafionally with mare's milk, or, if that cannot be procured, with water. To this fome of them add cheefe, or horfe-flefh dried in the fun. The fubfiftence of their horfes is not more expenfive, or difficult to procure. In 'the winter, they will fcratch deep in the fnow, to come at the herbage underneath ; and in want of other food, will cat the tender twigs of trees, or even the bark. CHAP. II. Of tht provinces of Brjfarab'ia — Moldavia-— Walachia— Bulgaria — Servia — ^ Bomia—Dalmatia ^Romania —Muiidonia—AWania—Epirui—TheJJaly. TH E province of Beffiirab'a is fituated on the weft fide of the Euxine fea, on the mouths of the Danube, being bounded on the fouth by this river, and on the north by that of the Niefter. The chief towns are Belgorod, fituate on the Black Sea, near the mouth of the Niefter, in 31 degrees of eaft longitude, and 46 degrees 30 minutes of north 'i:iiude ; Bend, which liands on the fame river, ohuut a hundred miles north- weft of the preceding. In their perfons, and way of life, the inhabitants of this province nearly refemble the Tartars. The province of Moldavia is fituate between 25 and 29 degrees of eaft longitude, and between 45 and 48 degrees of north latitude. It is boundec* on the eaft by Befiarabia 5 on the northeaft by i e river Niefter, which divides it from Poland; on the weft by Wslachia and Tranfilvania; and on the fouth by the Danube, which feparates it from Bulgaria. It is two hu.idred and forty miles long, and a hundred and fifty broad. The foil is fruitful, and the coun- try abounds in corn, wine, rich paftures, a good breed of horfes, oxen and Ihcep, venifon, game, fifli, niul fowl, with all forts of European fruits. The inhabitants are Chriftians of the Greek church, and have been tributary to the Turks fince the year 1574. The grand feignior appoints a prince to rule over them, who is ufually a native of the province; the intereft of which, however, he is conftantly ready to facrifice to the will of his fuvereign, by whom he is delegated to ferve as an inftrument of oppreflion. Bcfides the yearly tribute paid to the fultan, which is very large, they are obliged to raifc a great body of troops at their own cxpence, when hi: forces take the field. The chief towns of this province arc, Jazy, the capital, fituate on the river Pruth, in 28 degrees of eaft longitude, and 47 degrees 15 minutes north lati- tude; and Chotzin, fituate near the frontiers of Poland, on the river Niefter. Walacliia is fituate between 23 and 26 degrees of eaft longitude, and between 43 and 46 degrees of north latitude. It is bounded on the north-eaft by Moldavia; on the north-weft by the Iron-gate moun- tains, which feparate it from Tranfilvania; on the fouth-weft by the Danube, which feparates it from the province of Servia ; and on the fuutli-caft by the fame river, which divides it from Bulgaria. It is two hundred miles long, and a hundred broad. The air, as in the adjacent provinces, is temperate, and the foil fertile ; producing excellent corn, wine, oil, pafture, and all kinds of European fruits, with great numbers of flieep and oxen, and a valuable breed of horfus. The chief towni are, Tcrgowifco, or Tarvis, the capital, fituate on the river Laniza, fixty miles north of the Danube; and Buchorcft, which fiands on the river Dombrowecen. The conftituiion of this province is the fame as that of Moldavia, being governed by a nr.tlvc, appointed by the grand feignior, and for the moft part exceed- ingly rapacious. The only privilege enjoyed by the inhabitants is the free exercifc of their religion, which is the Chriftian, of the Greek communion; and to this toleratioii probably it is owing, that they have never revolted from the Ottoman power, and put themfelves under the protection of the Auflrian princes. Bulgaria is bounded on the north by' the Danube; on the eaft by the Black i'.z ; on the fouth by mount Haemus or Argentum, which feparates it from Roma- nia.; and on the weft by Servia. In lenjth from eaft to weft, it is about four hundred miles, and up- wards of a hundred in breadth. This is a mountainous province, but has fome fruitful valleys, which afford good cropi of corn and pafturage. The inhabitants are generally hufbandmcn, and Chriftians of the Greek communion, who would enjoy the fruits of their labour in tranquillity, were they not much annoyed by robbers, that poflcfs the inacccflible parts of the mountains. The chief towns are, i. Sophia, fituate on the river Ifchar, a hundred miles fouth of the DanuL-e. It ftands in a plain between two hifh mountains, on one of which the fnow lies ij'uring the greater part of the fummer; yet feveral hot baths are in the valley. It is an open town, without walls or fortifications ; and was anciently called S'ardica, where one of the general councils was held. 2. Silillria, or Doreftro, a large town fituated on the fane river, feventy miles north of Sophia. 3, Nicopoiis, fituated 1 at the confluence of the .ivers Danube and Ifchar. I This town was built by Traj.m, in memory of his viiSory i i68 H E MOD R N [Europe. viAory ov*>r Decebalus, king of the Dacians ; and heie Sigifmond, king ef Hungary, was defeated by Bajaset, emperor ef the Turks, Scrvia, inciently called Myfia Superior, is bounded on the eaft by Bulgaria i on the fouth by Macedonj on the weft by Bofnia; and on the north by the rivers Save and Danube. The capital of this province is Belgrade, fituated at the confluence of the Danube and the Save, in 21 degrees z minutes of eaft longi- tude, and 45 degrees 10 minutes of north latitude, three hundred and forty-three tn?.ei fouth-eaft ot' Vienna. This was lately a large beautiful city, de- fended by one of the ftrongeft caftles in Europe, and inhabited by Chriftiani. It has often been the obje£l of contending nations. It was taken by prince Eugene of Savoy, in 1 7 17, and remained in the pof- fcfCon of the Auftrians till 1 739, v»hcn it was reftored to the Tarks, in whofe hinds it has continued ever fince, with the whole province of Serria. Other towns of note are, i , Semandria, fituated bn the Danube, thirty miles fouth-eaft of Belgrade, once the capital of the province, but now in a ruinous condition, a. Widin, or Vidin, lying on the river Danube, a hundred and twenty miles fouth-eaft of Belgrade; a town frequently taken and retaken by the Chriftians and Turks, but now in pofleflion of the latter. 3. Nifl*a, fituated on the river Morsva, s, hundred and thirty miles fouth-eaft of Belgrade, forncrly poflelTed by the Imperialifts, but yielded to the Turks, with the whole province of Servia, about thirty years ago. 4, Scopia, or Ufcopia, likewife iituated on the river Morava, near the foot of mount Rhodope, feventy miles fouth of NiHli} a populous city, and has a Sourithing commerce. The province of Servia is beautifully diverfilied with mountains and valleys, woods and open fields. The foil is fruitful, itnd, where cultivated, produces corn pnd wine} but being a frontier province, poirelTed alternately by the Imperialifts and Turks, it is neither popu' , nor well improved. Ti i province of Bofnia, part of the ancient Illyri- cum, ii bounded on the eaft by Servia ; on the fouth by Dalmatiaj on the weft by Croatia ( and on the north by the river Save, which feparates it from Sclavonia. I'he chief town is Bofna Seraio, fituated on the frontiers of Turky, in 19 degrees of eaft longi- tude, and 45 degrees of north latitude, a hundred and twenty miles weft of Belgrade. The province of Dalmatia is boi^nded on the north by Eofnia; on the eaft by Servia i on the fouth by Albania; and on the weft by the Adriatic Sea, or Gulph of Venice, T!it greateft part of this country is in the pofleflion of the Turks ; but the Venetians have feveral confiderable towns on the fea-coaft. The chief Turkilh towns are, i, Trcbigna, fituate near the Gulph of Venice, in 19 degrees of eaft lon- gitude, and 41 degrees 40 minutes of north latitude; fixty miles fouth-eaft of Spalatro. 1. Narenza, fituaie on a bay of the Adriatic Sea, twenty-live miles north of Kagufa. 3, Antivari, a port-town, Handing on a rock in the Gulph of Venice, ten miles weft of Dulcijiiio. This province, as well as the preceding, was part oftheancient Illyricum, I'he country is mountainous, but generally fruitful, and p-odiiccs » confiderable quantity of corn, wine, and oil. The town of Zara was formerly the metropolis of Liburnia, at the great peninfula which runs into the fea; but is at prefent the capital of a njore extenlive province, T'..: building's are faid to be elegdnt, and the inhabitants as much civilized as in any of the cities of Italy. It is confirmed by the latcft travellers, that thp fea is conftantly gaining ground on the coaft of this country ; as appears from the pavements of ftrects obferved under water, as well as from fome noble fabricks difcovered a few years fince, in cleaning the harbour of Zara. Of the city of Nona hardly any veftiges remain; but at San Filippo and Giacomo, may be feen the ruins of an aquedudl, either built or repaiicd by the emperor Trajan. Veftiges yet remain of the walls of Afleria, the cir- cumference of which is clearly diftinguifhubie above ground, and mcafures three thoufand fix hundred Roman foot. They form an oblong polygon, and are built with common Dalmatian marble. The thicknefs is generally ,iboiit eight foot, but in one of the ei.remities eleven. The height in fomc parts is thirty foot. > Near the river Kerka, the Titius of the ancients, at Suppliacerqua, are feen fome old arches, fuppofcd to have belonged {o the city of Burnum, otherwife called Liburna. In the diftridt of Trau, which was anciently diftin. guiflid for the excellence of its marble, the moft re. markable objedl is the piflaphaltum, or pitch that drops from a rock. No veftiges remain of the city of Spalatro; but three miles hence lie the ruins of the ancient Epitium. The place is now called Stobrez. Near the road htthcf by land from Salona, are feveral arches of Dioclcfian's aquedudl^ vulgarly ciUed Ponte ftcco, and above it is an infulatcd mafs called Kamen, i, e. the ftone, by way of excellence, where ;n former times a fma!l fort has ftood, Rs appears from the leftigis of the walls. The fitudtion of Epetium was extremely beautiful. The city ftood on the fea-fide, but on a plain much above the level of the wattt. The veftiges of its walls are ftill diftinguifljable on the banks of the fniall har- bour of Stobrez, and appear to have been built of folid materials, but without that nice connecSlion which is admired in the Roman fabricks. A fubterra- neous paflage, the mouth of which remains in its primitive ftste, extending far under the ruins of the city, feems to have ferved in ancie .t times for an outlet to the waters. Nea, the parochial church, which is a quarter of a mile from the ftiore, appear the foundations of a tower, which flanked Epetium on that fide; and the church is built on thofe old foLindations. On an eminence near the river Cettina, the Tilurus (if the ancients, ftood the city of Equum, where vef- tiges of the amphitheatre are yet to be feen. The canals arc ftill viliblc which ferved to convey the Witer )PB. fuRKY.] GENERAL Traveller. 160 water into iti area, and they were cut out of the foiiJ rock. From Trig! to Duarr, the Cettina precipitates from rocic to rock in a very romantic manner, and about a mile from the place UA mentioned, forms a magni- ficent cafcade. The vultures of thofc parts, near the mouth of this river, arc dreadful animals, mea- furing above twelve foot from the tip of one wing to the other. They frequently carry away lambs, fonie. times fliecp, and even the children of the fhepherds. In the didrii^ called the Primorie, which is the Paratalaflia of the ancients, the only town at prefcnt is Macaroca, fuppufed to have rilcn out of the ruins of the ancient Rataneum, or Ketinnm. The Morlacks, a part of the inhabitants of Ualmatia, have feveral cuftoms dillintSl from thofe of the other natives of the province. The obligations of fricni' fhip, among them are particularly revered. They have even made it a kind of rcllnious poinr, and tie the facrcd bond at the foot of the altar. The Scla- vonian ritual contains a particular b'^ncdiflion for the folcmn union of two male or two female friends, in the prefence of the congregation. The male friends thus united are called probal'mi, and the females pofajlrcmc, which fignify half brothers, and half-fillers. The Morlacks, whether of the Roman or Greek church, have very fingular ideas ajout religion) and the ignorance of their teachers daily augments this evil. They are firmly perfuaded of the reality of fairies, nofturnal apparitions, witches, and enchantments. When a Morlack hufband mentions his wife, he always premifes, by your Irave, or begging your par- don ; and "hen the hufoand has a bedftead the wife muft fleep on the floor. The infants here are allowed to fuck their mother's milk while (he has any, or till (he is with child again ; and though this fliould not happen for fix years, they continue all the time to receive nourifliment from the breaft. The breads of the Morlachian women are in general fo large, that they can give the teat to their children over their fliouldcrs, or under their arms, Romania, the -ncieiit 1 h race, is bounded on the eaft by the Black Sea, the Bofphorus, and Propontis; on the north by the mouniiins of Rhodope and Ar- gentum ; on the weft by lM.nccdoni« ; and on the fouth by the Archipelago. It \} about three hundred miles long, and a hundred and ii'iy broad. The capital oi thiS province, and of the Turkifh empire, is Conftant'.noplc, anciently called Byzantium, but at prefcnt Stra-nboul by the people of that nation, and by others xhz Port, on account of its harbour be- ing the fined of any in Europe. This city, which ftands on the weftern (horc c.f the Bofphorus, was rebuilt by the emperor Conftaiuine, in the fourtli century, who transferred hither the feat of the Roman government. Upon his death it. obtained the name of Conftantinople. It is fituatc in 29 degrees jo mi- mines of eafl lungitude, aiid in 4.1 degrees 4 minutes of north latitude. It is of a tiiangular fliape, wafhed by the fea on two fides, and nfing gradually from the ilvjre, in the form of an amphitheatre, 1 he view of No, (+. it from the harbour is confcfledly the lined in the world, exhibiting a multitude of magnificent mofques or temples, with their domes and minarets, and the feraglio, intermixed with gardens and groves of ever- greens. The expcdlations excited by this profpe£f, however, arc difappointed on entering the city, where we find ;he (Ireeis narrow, the houfes of ne common people low, and built of boards, and the palaces of the great men concealed by high walls before them. I'he city is furrounded by a wall about twelve miles in ci.- cumference, and the fuburbs are very cxtenfiv;. The royal palace or feraglio is h\x.'.\. upon a point of the triangle, which runs out between the Propontis and the harbour, and confifts of a number of apart- ments richly furnifhed, but not very commodious ; many of them being detached, and at a diftance from the body of the palace. The principal gate is guarded by fifty capigi or porters, and the fecond by the fame number; who all wear high Aiffcned caps, but na other arms than a little flafF. In the firll court of the palace is an hofpital, and the mint for coining money. In the fecond is the divan, or the fupremtf court of juftice; with the treafury, about which runs a piazza ; and in the middle of the court are fountain*, furrounded by trees, Thofe two courts are open to the public; but no (Irangers are admitted beyond the fecond, except ambairadors with their retinues, when they come to an audience. Of the mofques or temples, feven are exceedingly magnificent, called the royal mofques, which are furrounded by fpacious areas at a diftance from other buildings. The principal is that of Sophia, ftanding oppofite to the great gate of the feraglio, upon an eminence gently declining to the fea-Ihore, This fdbric was originally a Chriftian church, built by the emperor Juftin, and beautified by Juflinian, It is of a fquare figure without, three hundred and forty foot long, and two hundred and forty broad ; but within, its form is circular. In the front is a portico, fupa ported by marble columns { and part of the temple is covered by a grand cupola, thirty-fix v^rds in diao meter, fuftained by four flately pillars ei^ht fathoms in thicknefs. In this mofque, which receives light from twenty-four windows, there are trpwards of a hundred col;.mns, of the mod curious marble, fome of them porphyry and Egyptian granite; with which the whole building is likewife lined. Befides this mofque, there are feveral others not much inferior in magnificence ; amongft which the moft remarkable are, that built by the emperor Soly» man; the Validia, founded by the mother of Maho- met IV, and the new mofque built by fultan Achmet. The mofques have ufually hofpitals, and endowed fchool. belonging to each of them. Within fide thofe tc-mplei, the only ornaments are branches for candles, ivory balls, and large cryftal globes, no painting or imagery being permitted. The floors are covered with carpets, and in each is a marble pulpit, from which the mollas fometimes preach to the people. Here are alfo feveral magnificent bagnios and cara- vanferas. The latter ufually confift of fpacious ftone T t build- 'I i;i i 170 THE M R N [Europe. bu'ililings, of a fquire Agure, encompaHliig Lirgc | of Conftantinople. Tlio ancient name of thii' city courts, about which runs a cloyftcr or piazza, anJ a was Orclleii but being dedrcycd by an earthquake. gallery over it. In fome of thofc places, travellers are provided with a mattrefs and quilts to lie on, and have their entertainment gratis, at the public expence ; but this is fcldom accepted. Travellers ufually buy their provifion in the marlcet, and drefs it themfclves, or fend for meat drcfled from the cooks (hops, where (hey meet with it at a very reafonable price. The Atmcidan, where horfe -races were anciently run, is dill ufcd in a fimilar manner; for here the Turks throw the gcrit or dart, riding full fpeed at the mark. This fquarc retains its former dimenfions, being yet four hundred paces long, and a hundred broad ; but it is now deditutc of the fine ftatues and obelifks with which it was onre adorned. One grand obelifk, how- ever, conflftingof a Angle piece of granite marble, fifty foot high, yet remains entire, enriched with hierogly- phics which are now unintelligible. It appears from fome Greek infcriptions that this pillar was thrown down by an earthquake, and after lying on the ground a confidcrable time, was again creeled by the emperor Theodoftus. This is almoft the only monument of antiquity that remains entire; but fragments may yet be feen of fome other pillars and obelifks. The befaftin, or exchange, where all merchandize is fold, is a very magnificent building. No tradefmens (hops are in any other part of the town ; nor any markets but the bazars, where provifions are expofed to fale. In the markets for live cattle, /laves of all ages and both fexes are publicly fold, who are generally Chridi- ans. Amongft the mod beautiful girls thus expofed, the Turks frequently recruit their harams, employing old women to examine, whether thofe whom they are inclined to purchafe retain their virginity. The fuburbs of Conftantinople in extent exceed greatly that of the city. The principal of thofe, called Galata, is on the other Tide of the harbour, op- pofite to the feraglio. The houfes here are better built than thofe within the walls of the city, and are inhabited chiefly by foreigners, who enjoy their free- dom, both in regard to their religion and other cuftoms. Another fuburb is called Caflumpaiha, where are many docks, for building and repairing fhips and gallies. A third fuburb, near Galata, on the Afialic fide of the Bol'phorus is Pera, where the ambalTidors and minillcrs of foreign princes refide ; and here are the bed buildings belonging to Condantinople. The town of Scutari, likewife feparated from the city by the Bofphorus, which is upwards of a mile in breadt!:. is ufually reckoned another fuburb. This is a large populous place, whither the merchants of Pcrfta and other eadcrn countries refort; The fultan has here another feraglio, to which he frequently retires with his ladies. The fccond city of the einpire (lands likewife in the province of Romania. This is Adrianople, fituate in 26 degrees 27 minutes of ead longitude, and in 42 degrees of north latitude, in a fine plain on the river Mariza, about a bunJred and fifty miles north-weft 6 it was rebuilt by the em|ieror Adrian, from whom it has fincc been denominated. It is about cijjht miles in cir- cumference, and contains fcvcral grand mofques ; but the private houfes are built in the f.mic mean ftylc with thofe of the metropolis. The plcafantncfs of the place occafions it to be often vifitcd by the grand feignlor, who has here a feraglio equal in beauty, though not in extent, to that of Conlhntinople. This city was taken by the Turks in 1362, and became the Icat of their empire, before they made a conqucd of Conlhn- tinople. The next confiderabL- town in Romania is Philippoli, fo named from king Philip, the father of Alexander th« Great. It is fituate in an extenfive plain on the river Meriza, in 25 degrees of caft longitude, anJ 42 degrees 20 minutes of north latitude, two hundred miles north- wcfl of Condantinoplei inhabited chiefly by Chriflians of the Greek communion, and is the fee of one of their archbifliops. Here they fliew >chapel, in which, according to their tradition, St. Paul preached to the Philippians. The town is furrounded by aa old wall, but is at prcfen: a place of little flrengtii. It was taken from the Grecia.n emperor by the Turks in 1360, Gallipoli is a port-town fituate in 27 degrees of eaft longitude, and 40 degrees 30 minutes of north latitude, ac the entrance of the Propontis, or fea of Marmora, twenty-five miles north-eafl of the Hellefpont or Dar- danelles, and a hundred miles fouth-weflof Condanti- nople. The inhabitants, according to computation, confid of ten thoufand Turks, and four thoufand Chridians, befides a great number of Jews. I'here are two harbours for gallies, but neither of them admits large vedels. This was the fird town the Turks made themfelves maders of Europe, in 1358. The old cadic of Romania, ufually called Sedos, lies on the European fide of the Hellefpont, in 27 de-* grees of ead longitude, and 40 of north latitude. This place, with Abydos on the oppofite fhore, are cele- brated by the poets for the amours of Hero and Leander. Here it was that Xerxes laid bridges over the Helle- fpont, on which he pafled his army when he invaded Greece; and at this place likewife the Turks take an account of all velTcIs bound to Condantinople. Of Heracica, once a great city, which dood in the midway between Condantinople and Gallipoli, little more remains at prcfent than fome ruins; within fcvcn or eight miles of which lies Rodorto, a town of con- fiderable trade, inhabited by a mixture of Turks, Jews, and Chridians. The province of Macedonia is bounded on the ead: by Romania, and part of the Archipelago; on the norm by Servia j on the fouth by Thell'aly, with the gulphs of Salonichi and Conteflu; and on the wed by Epiruii. The chief towns are, Contefl'i, Philippi, Amphipolis or Empoli, and Jaiii/..^. ConfefTa is fituate on a bay of the Archipelago, in 25 degree; of ead longitude, and 41 degrees of north latitude, about two hundred miUs wed of Condanti- nople. TURKV.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 171 nople. The bay to which it gives name, it fume- times called the Bay of Monte Santo, or the Holy Mount, from the gnat number of Greek monaflerics upon it. Phiiippi, fo named from PH;iip the father of Alex- ander, ia likcwife fituatc on the coniineti of Thrace, in 15 degrees of ead longitude, and 41 degrees of north latitude. In the plains near this city, Auguftus Czfar and Marie Anthony obtained the decifiveviiStory over Brutus and Caflius, Amphipolis or Empoli, fituate on the river Strymon, was anciently the capital of Macedonia, but is now a poor town. Janiza or Pella, the biiih-place of Philip, and after- wards of Alexander, was the feat of the kings of Macedun till the time of Perfes; hut has no remains of its ancient^ranJcur. It lies about thirty miles fouth well of balonichi. The province of Albania is bounded on the eaft by Macedonia ; on the north by Dalmatia and Servia ; on the wed by the Gulph of Venice; and on the fouth by Epirus, In length, fiom north to fouth, it is about a hundred and fifty miles, and in breadth a hundred. One of the chief towns is Scodra or Ifcadar, fltuate near the river Boiano, twenty-five miles from the Gulph of Venice. It was once the capital of lUyri- cum, and is dill a large city. Aleflio or Liflus is fituate in 20 degrees of ead lon- gitude, and 42 of north latitude, near the mouth of the river Drino. It had once a capacious port, the work of Dionyfkus the Tyrant, who leading a colony hither, enlarged and walled the place round. In more modern times, it is celebrated for being the birth- place of George Cafiriot, ufually called Scanderbeg, who often defeated the Turkilh armies with a handful of men. Dulcigno, a port-town, is fituate on the Gulph of Venice, in 19 degrees of eaft longitude, and 42 of north latitude, fifty miles foutb-eaft of Ragufa. Durazzo, the Dyrrar'.iium of the Romans, is fituate on the Gulph of Venice, in 20 degrees of eaft longi- tude, and 41 degrees 30 minutes of north latitude. Hither the Romans ufually pafled over from Italy to Greece. It is memorable for being the place of Cicero's banlfhment, and of Pompey's retreat when Caefar had pofiincd himfelf of Rome. Ragufa flands on the Gulph of Venice, in 21 de- grees of cjfl longitude, and 41 of north latitude. The city ard territory form a Chriftian republic under the protedlion of the Turks, where the Chriftians enjoy gieatcr ptivilcges than in any other part of the Otto- man dominions. The province of Kpirus, now Canlna, is bounded on the north by Albania; on the weft by the Tea, near the entrance of the Gulph of Venice; on the fouth by Achaia ; and on the call by The/Taly, from which it is feparated by the mountain of Mezna, the ancient Pindus. It is about a hundred miles lung, and fixty broad. The chief towns are, i, Chimxra, fituate in 20 degrees 29 minutes of eaft longitude, and 40 de- grees 10 minutes of north latitude; a port-town, eighty miles fouth of Durazzc, ami twenty north of the illand of Corfu. 2. Butrinto, another port- town, thirty miles fouth of Chimirra. 3, Arta, or Larta, fixty miles north-weft of Lepanto, I'his was the ancient Ambracia, the refidence of the kings of Epij us. 4. Hygalo, fituate on a bay of the Gulph of Venice; the ancient Adtium, famous for a temple of Apollo | but afterwards more famous on account of the viiRory obtained by Auguftus over Anthony and Cleopatra, and for quinquennian games there inOituted. The province of Theil'aly, now Senna, is bounded on the weft by Epirus; en the north by Macedonia; on the caft by the Archipelago; and on the fouth by Achaia. One of the chief towns is LarifTa, called by the Turks Aflabarba, fituate in 23 degrees 30 minutes of eaft longitude, and in 39 degrees of north latitude ; a large populous city, and the fee of a Greek bifhop. It ftands delightfully on the river Pencus, having mount Olympus on the north, and the plains of Thef- faly on the fouth ; and is famous for being the place of Achilles's nativity. Salonichi, or Theflalonica, is fituate at the bottom of a bay of the Egean fea, to which it gives its name, lying in 24 degrees of eaft longitude, and 41 of north latitude. It is a populous town, has a good foreign trade, and confuli from feveral kingdoms and ftates refide here. The inhabitants are moftly Chriftians of the Greek communion, and have an archbifliop for the government of the church. Pharfa, fituate in 23 degrees of caft longitude, and 39 of north latitude, a little fouth of LarifTa. This is fuppofed to be the ancient Pharfalus, where Csefar obtained the decifive viftory over Pompey, Janna, whence this province takes its modern name, is fituate on a lake forty miles north of Lepanto, in 22 degrees of caft longitude, and 39 of north lati* tude. In this province, befides mount Olympus, which the ancients efteemed the higheft mountain in the world, are thofe of Pelion and Ofla, mentioned likewif: fo often by the poets, and not much inferior in height. Between the two laft mentioned mountains lay the celebrated plains of Tempe, reprefented by the an- cients as equal to the Elyfian Fields, and noted for producing fine grapes, with other fruits of a delicious flavour. According to the account delivered by Strabo and ^lian, this beautiful vale extended five miles in length, and in breadth near an acre and a half. On the right and left it was bounded by gentle convexities ; the Peneus glided along the middle; and the furround- ing groves were harmonioufly vocal with the mufic of the fineft birds. Livy, however, mentioning this celebrated place, informs us, that the Rom. ins, in marching through it, were ftruck with a degree of hor- ror rather than delight: for befides that the defile was difKcult to pafs, there were ftcep rocks on each hand, down which the profpe£t was apt to caufe a dizzinefs; and the awfulnefs of the fcene was heightened by the noife and depth of the interfluent Peneus. Hi . c ■ I . -. ■ , ..-..■ -: ,v.: CHAP, »7* T H HAP. Llvadia. M E R H [EuRope< III. THE province of Livadia contain! that part of ancient Achaia lying north of the Morea or Pelo- ponnefus, formerly diftinguiflted by the namei of Attica, Hellas, or Proper Greece, it is bounded on the north by Theflaly ; on the eaft by the Egean Sea, or Archi- pelago} on the fouth by the gulph of Lepanto, which feparates it from the Morea i and on the weft by the Ionian Sea. The capital of this province Is Setines, the ancient Athens, fttuate in 24 degrees 15 minutes of eaft longi- tude, and 38 degrees 5 minutes of north latitude. It ftands in the middle of a large plain, near the river Iliflus, about forty miles eaft of the ifthmus of Corinth This celebrated city, during its ilourifliing ftate, is faid to have been upwards of twenty-four miles in cir> cumference, but the extent of it at prefent is computed to be only about four. It enjoys a fine temperature, and a ferene ilcy i and the air is clear and wholefomc, though not fo delicately foft as in Ionia. The town ftands beneath the : >polis, or citadel, not encom- pafling the rock, as formerly, but fpreading into the plain, chiefly on the weft and north-weft. The houfes are moftly mean and ftraggling ; many with Jarge areas or ct Tts before them. The ftreets are very irregular, and anciently were neither uniform nor hindfome. In lanes, the high walls on each fide, which are generally white-wafhed, reflect ftrongly the heat of the fun. The town is fupplied with water in channels from mount Hymettus, and in the bazar or maikct-pldce, is a large fountain. The Turks have feveral mofques and public baths ; and the Greeks have convents for men and women, with many churches, in which fervice is regularly performed. The acropolis, or citadel, which was the moft an- cient part of Athens, is now a fortrefs, with a thick irregular wall, ftanding on the brink of precipices, and enclofing a large area, about twice as long as broad. Some portions of the ancient wall may be difcovcred on the outflde, particularly at the two ex- treme angles; and in many places it is patched with pieces of columns, and with marbles taken from the ruins. 7'he rock is lofty, abrupt, and inacceflible, except the front, which is towards the Piraeus ; having now, as ft.rmerly, only one entrance. It is deftitute of water (it for drinking, and fupplies are daily carried up to it from one of the conduits in the town. The afccnt to the acropolis is by traverfes and rude fortifi- cations furniflied with cannon, but without carriages, and ncglcflcd. A little beyond the fecond gate ftand the ruins of the propylea, which graced the entrance to the citadel. The temple of Viflory, which flood on an abrupt rock, has iis back and one fide unincumbered with the modern ramparts. The columns in the front being walled up, it is enteicd by a breach in the fide, within the propylea. It was ufed by the Turks as a maga- zine for powder, till about the year 1656} when a 4 fudden explofion, occafioned by lightning, carried away the roof, with a houfe ercdtcd on it. The principal ornament of the acropolis was the Parthenon, or great temple of Minerva, which appears from the defcription tranfmitted by antiquity to have been a moft magnificent fabric. The beafts of burden, which had conveyed up the materials, were regarded as facred, and rccompenfed with paftures; and one, which had voluntarily headed the train, was maintained during life, without labour, at the public expence. In the year 1676, when this temple was converted into a mofque, it was reckoned the fineft in the world. In the middle of the pediment was fecn a bearded Jupiter, with a majeftic countenance, ftanding and naked. The right arm was broken. The thunder- bolt, it has been fuppofed, was placed in that hand, and the eagle between his feet. On his right wis a figure, it is conjeflured, of Viflory, clcithed to the mid leg; the head and arms gone. This was leaning on the horfes of a car, in which fat Minerva, young and unarmed; her head-drcfs, inftead of a helmet, refembling that of a Venus, I'he generous ardour vifible in this pair of celcftial fteeds, was fuch, \^-e art told, as befpoke the mafterly hand of a Phidias or Praxiteles. Behind Minerva was a female figure, without a head, fitting with an infant in her lap ; and in this angle of the pediment was the emperor Hadrian^ with hifj arm round Sabina, both reclining, and feem- ing to regard Minerva with pleafure. On the left fide of Jupiter were the mutilated figures of five or fix other deities, exquifitely carved. There ye» remains much admirable fculpture about this fabric, which however is likely foon to perifli, through the ignorant contempt of its prefent mafters. The ruin of the erefiheum is of white marble, the architeflural ornaments of exquifite workmanfhip, and uncommonly curious. The columns in the front of the temple of Nepture are ftanding, with the archi- trave; and alfo the fkreen and portico of the temple of Minerva Polias, with a portion of the cell, retain- ing traces of the partition wall. The portico is now ufed as a powder magazine. The door-way of the veftibule is walled up, and the foil rifen near to the top of the door-way of the pandrofcum, a fmall, but very particular building, of which no fatisfa£lory idea can be communicated by defcription. Defcending from the acropolis, and making the circuit of that eminent part of ancient Athens, one of the firft obje£ls that ftrike our view, is a cave once facred to Apollo and Pan, which appears to have been adorned with votive tablets. The hill of the acropolis is more abrupt and per« pendicular, as well as narrower, at the extremity op- pofite to the propylea, where beneath the wall, is a cavern, the roofting place of crows and daws. Pro* ceeding thence to the fide of the acropolis next to mount Hymettus, the hill is indented with the theatre of Bacchus; beyond which begins an out-work of the fortrefs, ftanding on ancient arches, fuppofed to be the remains of a ftoa or portico, which was conneAed with the theatre called the odeum. The wall of the inner front of the profcenium is ftill ftanding, very \{ lofty, the 'r'^ ^(fi/f/ '/<'<' '■^fifffin \. y^/r/// jff'^/t f // . r/r r Pr/'/'ff'f . fy/i€^^Jf"ftJtitjf./fff/fr,)//if'tu//f /'Iff/ //(nuM<>nff , f/trtf/fir x/fomju/'c rn£Mtfe/i'ro/i(if/fr(f/ffr/t/ ni wm ty/rai/ -f/yi/o . /r\h TURKY.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. •ft Ufiyi with upcn archcj} fervin); ai part of an out- woik ol thcrudlei and a porciun of the exterior wall oi the ri^ht wing it alfo viril)le. The vencralile hill of the areopagui, ceUbratid fur it« fnlcinn tribunal, ii nrcenilcd by Dcpi cut in (he lock) an I liy it, is a fmill church of St. Dionyfius, near one luiiied, and a wall nnw choakrd up, in which (hey pretend ilut i>i. i'aul wa.t hid on fome occafiun. 7'he teii)|ili: ul 'I'hcft'ut is of the Doric order, and in the llylc uf ii9 architeiSture greatly refemhies the pftrthcnun. It is )ct entire, except the roof, which is modern and vaulted, wiili ,in aperture or two for the admiflion of light. It is at prcf'ent a Greek church dedicated to Sr. George. The fculptures llill cxt.tnt about this temple, though much impaired, (ioing on fiom the fladium wliliiV>t croHlng the Iliflus, a fulltary church prcfcnti itfilf on the Kft hand at a dilt.incc, and belure us a temple of whit? marble, fcated on the rock by the fide of the river. This, ai well as the parthcnon and the tcniple of ThcTeus, h.is been transformed into a church, named St. Mary on the Rcjck. 'I'his temple, which is much impaired, is believed to have been the famous tileuli- nium, belongini; to Cercb and Froferpine, Ueyond the Kleuliniuiii, in Agrae, was a temple of Dial. a Agrxa, where the goddefs was reprefentcd ai bearing u bow, and named Agroiera, the huntrcfs. In |6;0 this teoipio was a church. It was of whitg marble, and the floor Mofaic. The file is now occupied by another church, which is n mean flruc* witncl's the hand of a matter. The exploits of Thefcus i ture. bmeath the Eleuftniuin, in a rocky dell, is and Hercules were cirved on the meton'-s, in fixtecn compartments, in alio relievo, and the :jllawtng Tub- je^ls aie intelligible, viz. Thefeus killing the fuw of Ctommyon i throwing Scyron from a rock into the fcj i wrcDIing with Cercyon; deOroying the Mino taur , diiving the bull of Marathon to Athens) Her- cules ftraiij^ling the Nemean lionj with lolaus deftroy- ing the liydraj receiving the jiolden apples from a nymph, one of the Hefperides. The next objefl that occurs without the town, at fome dillance in the plain, is a marble gate, which feparated the old city from Hadrianopolit, or New Athens. This gjte fcrving as a boundary, it marked with two infcripiions. Over the arch on one fide are thefe words in Greek, •* What you fee is Athen;), '• the old city of Thijfcus ;" and on the other front, <* What ynu fee is the city of Hadrian, and not uf «' Thefeus." Beyond it, within the region of New Athens, lies the majellic ruin of the temple of Jupiter Olympus. It confifts of prodigious columns, tail and beautiful, of the Corinthian order, fluted j fome finglc, others fupporting jh(.ir architraves. The columns aic about fix foot in diameter, and near fixty in height. The number without the cell was one hundred and fixteen or twenty. Ceventcen were {landing in 16761 but a few years ago, one was over- turned, with much difliculiy, and applied to the building a new mofque in the bazar or market-place. It is remarkable, that two (tones of a ftep in the front had coalefced at the extremity, fo that no junflure can be perceived ; and the fame obfervation has been made on a ftep of the parthenon. In both inftances, the cfFeiSl is probably owing to a, concretory fluid, which pervades the marble in the quarry. Some (lone-work of the Panathenean (ladium ftill remains at the two extremities by the IlilTus. I'he area, which produces grain, meafures fix hundred and thirty Englifh foot in length. On the left hand, near the top, is a fubterraneous paflage through the moun- tain, once under the feats. This was a private way by which the prcfident of the games, the magidrates, and prieds entered to take their places, after the fpe£iators were met ; and by which, it is fuppofed, thofe who alfo a fm;ill church with fume buildings, and trees, and vefligei of the fountain Callirhac, the fame with that which obtained the name of Enneacrunus, after Pififlratus had furnillicd It with nine pipes. The fite of the lyceum is now markid by a well and a church, and many large (tones fcattered about. Befides the ancient buildings yet remaining, innumer* able fragments may be found, of flatues, columns, and other pieccH of architeAure, which evince the magnili* ccnrcof this calibrated capital in the time of its fplendor. The Turk;> here are in general more polite, focial, and afFuble, than is common to their nation, and par* take in fome degree of the Greek character. The citi- zens of Athens are yet di(lingui(hed by a native quick* nefs of apprehenfion, but which, not being duly cuiti* vated, indead of producing genius, degenerates into cunning. They are rcputuj a moft crafty, fubtlc, and acute race; and it li.is been jocofcly affirmed that no Jew can live among them, becaufe he would be continually out-wimd. The habit of the modern Athenians is a black vcfl', with a loofe coat ovi'r it lined with furs ; and their cap refcmbles the crown of a hat. On their legs they wear eafy black booti, which fit in wrinkles; but never (hoes or flipper* at the Turks, The women wear coloured gowns, ufually red or blue, reaching down to their feet, and over them a fliort ved of filki but never appear abroad without a veil. Their hair is plaited, and hangs down low on their backs. Provifions of every kind are here good and cheap ( the frequent and fevere fads having an influence on the market. Hares, game, and fowl, may be pur* chafed for little more than the value of the powder and (hot. Oranges, lemons, and citrons, grow in the gardens: the grapes and melons are excellent, as are alfo the figs, which were celebratr! of old. The wines are wholfome, but the pitch, infufcd to prcferve them, communicates a tafle which proves at (ird dif- agreeable to drangers. When the olives blacken, vad flights of pigeons, thruflies, ind other birds repair to the groves for food, WiM turkies arc here not un- common, and partridges very frequent. In winter, woodcocks likewife abound ; dcfcending, after fnow contended and were unfuccefsful, made their retreat, on the mountains, into the plain, and as fuddenly re- Such avenues appear to have been not uncommon in tiring. In the time of froft, they enter the gardens nf ihe ftadiums of Griece. the town in great diflre's, rather than crofs the fea^ Ho. 15. I Uu and li'iS '74 II M O I) R N (F.uKorB, and Rre rometimci c.ilcrn with the limJ, 'Siii|H'a, teat, widgeon, ducki, and the like, are alfo found in great plenty. I'he Ixrge horned owl, the favourite bird nf Minerva, which the ancient Athenians placed «> her coni|)anion in her iem|ilc in the iicropolii, ii here jH'u lo bo fccn This fpecies of bird is at ravenous as an e.igli', uiij il pteired by hunger, will .ittack lain'is ami hju's, Frcijuent traces may yet be pcrctivcd o( tlu- dcini or boroughs, which were anciently fcaitrrod over the territory of Athens) and fcvcral iliil cxiil, hut nuillly reduced to very inconfiderable villa;^C3, Many nf (he ancient wells alfo occur on Lycabcttus at the I'irofus, and all over Attica. Sonic arc fccn in ilie vineyards and gardens nearly in their prillinc flate. 'I'hiy cun- fid of a circular rim of marble, about a yard high, (landing on a f(|uarc pavement} aduinid not intlc- gantly with wreathed fluiingson the outfulc; or plain, with mouldings at the top and bottom. The bucket is a kettle, a j.ir, or the (kin of a goal ur kid dillcnded i and clofe by is comninnly a ftono tiinigli, into whiili tliey pour water f^r the catle. The territory of Aihcns was anciently well peopled, and the ciiy wm fupplitd with corn from Sicily and Africa. At prcfrnt Attica istliinly inhabited, and fecms to produce ^rain fufliricnt for the natives; but tlic edicts prohibiiin^; exportation a''c continually eluded, and public dillrcfs cnfues al- m ill yearly on this account. 'i'he olive groves are now, as anciently, a principal fource of the riches of Athens; and the honey of Attica continues to maintain its repute, particularly that of Ilynicttus. The wild beads, which find flielier in the mountains, greatly annoy the (hepherds, who conllantly guard their folds with large fierce dogs. The perfon who killed a wolf, was entitled by a law of Solon to a reward; if a female, to one drachma, feven- pence half. penny; if a male, to five drachn:as. Afterwards a talent, or one hundred and eighty pounds flciling, was paid for a young wolf, and double that funi for one full grown. The peafant now produces the (kin in the bazar or market, and is rccnmpcnfed by volun- tary contribution. Parncs, the mountain towards the CephifTus, is haunted, befides wolves, by deer and foxes, as it formerly was by wild boars and bears. In the eaft part of Attica, on the lofty promontnry ofSunium, ftood the temple of Minerva Sunias, vifibic from afar on the Tea. This Oruflure was of white marble, and probably ere£led about the fame time with the great temple of Minerva called the parthcnon, in the acropolis at Athens ; having the fame proportions, but greatly inferior in magnitude. The order is Doric, and it appears to havrbeen a fabric of exquifitc beauty. It had fix columns in front. Nine columns were {landing on the fouth-weft fide in the year 1676, and five on the oppofitu, with two antx or piladers at the j fouth-cnd, and part of the pronaos. The number is ] now twelve, befides two in front, and one of the antx. Ten miles fouthead of Athens lies the plain of Ma- rathon, famous for the viflory there obtained Ly the Athenians over the Perfians, under the command of Miltiadcs. This celebrated plain is long and narrow, and the foil reputed (.^cccc'in ;ly futile, I'he bailcjr which it produced was uiuivntly named AdnlUan, pcrh.ips friiin its t.illiuf^; und at piilcil it )iJd', com nf the moll luxuriant growth, Th* piincipd lurr'iw, proltably that of ihi: gallant AilirniaMS, nieiiiiuntil by Pa'ifaniai, dill towers abnvo the Unl of ilie (ilain. it ii of lijht finceaith, and his a bulh r.r uv > ^'lowmg III! it. At a finall diltancu northward, is a lipure bafc'iient of white marble, pciiiaps p.>it uf ilic iruphy ercded by the Athenians; but we n»w lnuk m vain for tlie pillaison which the names wir." recordid. About filtceii miles imrtli-wcll of Athens, on the will bank of the (Jcphill'us, near the ici-coad, lie the ruins of hieufi.s a <-ity that contciulcd with Athens for empire, until it w.ii taken by Tluleiis. Heru doiid the maiiilicent temple of Ceres, wh:?re iho I. leufinian niyllerics were I'lrfornied. .Some marbles iincoinmunly nialJivc, and fome pieces of th^ columni remain on tlu fpot. The breadth of the cell ii ahtnit .1 huikltiil and fifty foot; the i, iigth, including lh« pronaos and portico, iwo liundicJ and fixteen foot; and ll'.e dlanictir of thecidimns, whiih are (I'lteJ, lix inches from the buiinin ul ili- llialts, is fix loot and a half. The temple was a decadyle, or had ten co- lumns in the front, which was to thv e.id 'J'hc peri- bolus or inclofurc, which furrounded it on the nortli- ead and on the fouth fide, nieafurej th.i-j hundred and cighty-fevcn foot in length frum noith to fouth, and three hundred and twcnty-e'ghi loot in breadth from e.xll to wed. Between the wed wall of thw in- clofure and temple, and the wall of the citadel, wai a pad.ige forty-two foot fix inches wide, which led to the fuinmit of a high rock at the north-^vcd an;;le of the inclofurc, on which are vifibk the traces of a temple in tiiitis, in length feventy four foot fix :ni.hes trom north to fouth, and in breadth fifty four foot. It was perhaps the temple facred to Triptolemus. This fpot commands a very exteiilive view of the pliiii and hay. At a fmall dillancc from the north en I of h-- inclo- fure is a heap of marble, coiiiiding of fragments of the Doric and Ionic orders; the remains probably of the temples of Di.uia, Propylea, and of Neptune, and of the propylcum or gate-way. Near it is the bud of a colofTil datuc of Ceres. bhe carries on her head a bafket, carved on the oiitfije, with handtuls of wheat- ears, rofes, and bundles of poppies. A bafis, fup- pofed to belong to the (tatue, lies at a little didance from it, on the fides of which is reprefented the pro- ceflton of Ceres, in baiTo relievo. A proccdion was made by the Athenians in commemoration of this goddefs rambling about the world in fearch of her daughter Proferpine?, dolcn by Pluto, after fhe had lighted her torches at mount /Etna; the whole com- pany hai ing torches in their hands. A well yet in the village, may be that which was called Callichorus, where the women of Eleufis were accudomcd to dance in honour of Ceres. Twenty miles weft of Athens lies Megara, once the capital of a coiifidcrable territory, but at prcfent only a village confiding of low mean cottages. It retains, however, the ancient name, and is pleafantly fituated on the dope of an eminence indented in the middle. TunitY.] G E N E R rx r, TRAVELLER. '75 nilildle. On eich fule of thia vale wai nri acrnpniit or ciuiMi <'i>c lunu'J C-iiii, the vthiir Iroiii Alc4ilu)u», lliu builil'i' lit 4 w.ill. In 1CJ76 (he cily-tvjll Ma> not rntitslv Jcintililhol, but cumprrhcndeJ the two I'uni- iiills, en winch .iic loinr chiirclicii, v/iih a ()urii(>n ul the pKiin luvvurJb the foutli. No vcllijn remain of any of lie numci iu< public tiliticei, iciiipk's, nn>l (rpuLliri's, winch un>.c jilomcd diii ciiy ; a drlVcl lh.tl (icms lu be jullly iinputcil to ''ie nature of the ftone at thii |i'Kr, wlioh W.I vciy while, uiicoinniunly lull, aii>l cunliltcd alinult entirely of cockle-lliulls. Delphi, the modern Caliri, llandi on the fido ot mount l'arn».lus, ahjut half way to the top, in 21 dijMris 111 tall longitude, and 38 dfurecs 30 mi- nuio ul mil ill latitude, ten mild north of the gulph of Lepaiitu 'I'hm celebrated place wis much rcfortcd 111 by '.he ancienti, on account of the temple of Apollo, mid the dark cave, whence the Pythian prieftent ufed to deliver her oracles fminjj; upon a tripos, Tlr. mountain Parnafl'ui appears with two lops, from one of which, called Kyainpeia, the Delphians threw the faniius /tlop. Between the two fummits rifes a I'priii:, luppi'fMl to be the toiintain of Caflalia, the water of which ii >:xceeding cold. Not far fioin I'aiiiaflus, is mount Helicon, likewil'c confeciattd to A|i(illo, They arc both roclcy hills, covered with f'losv iiuring a yroat p.irt of the year, Lepantu, the ancient Naupadtiis, is fituaied near the nurtli fliore of the entrance of the gulph of Le- panto, in 23 dcgices of cart longitude-, and 38 of north latitude. The town is furroundcd by fruitful vineyards, and fii-ldt, producing corn, rice, olives, crang's, lemons, and citrons, in great plenty. ''I'he wine is cftcrnied t'l.' bell iii tJrceco, Liv.idla, which gives n.ime to the province, is an ancient port- town, fituate on the Gulph of Lepanto, ]t is at piefent a populous trading place, confilling of Turks and Greek Chrirtians. Thiva, the ancient Thebes, was the capital of that fubdivifion of Greece called Oxotla; fituated about forty miles north of the iOhmus of Corinth, and thirty north-well of Athens, It was built on an emi- nence between two rivulets, the Ifmenus and Dirce. It is faid to have been founded by Cadmus; and ac- cording to the ancient mythology, the walls of it were /alfed at the found of Amphion's lyre, Bcfides Bacchus and Hercules, fuppufcd to have been born here, this place has produced fcveral great men, particularly Pindar, Lpaminondas, and Pclopidas, The mod noted river in Livadia is the Achelous, jcalled by Homer the prince of rivers. It rifes in mount Pindus, and running fouthward, difcharges it- self into the bay of Corinth. •' CHAP. IV. ■■■ The Mtrea, AMONG the ancicntf, this country obtained the name of the Peloponnefus, from Pelops, the fon of Tantalus, who led hither a colony. It is a pcninfula fituate in the Mediterranean Sea, between 11 and 24 degrvei of raft lon|;iliii2e, and between jO and ^8 liegiccs 30 minutes of north latitude, lit length lioin the illliniui of C>'iiiit'i, wheic it juuii Livadia, Is abmit a hundred and eighty miles, anJ the brcaJili a hiiiidied and thiiiy. The chief rivers in this countiy being To frequently mciitKined in tt'C nuimt pIa:mon, and difciurgej itldt into the bdy of Culochin.i. 3. The lnachu!>, a river of Argolis, tunning fouth caft into the Sinus Ar;>(ilicu9. 4. Slyx. I'liC Styx wat prcpeilya loiiniaiii iluippiiijj a deadly water, accoiiniiti l.icied, bciwien N1111..CIII and Phencus in Arcadia j but gave itb name to a ficti- tious river in he, I, Co much venerated aiiiun^'ft tin- guds, that an oath of iiny ol tliiifc by it wan inviolable, and which, wliiievcr prcluinrd to bii.k, Nva> lliipped of divinity, and debarred neiftar for a huiidicJ years, I'he capital of the country at prcfent is the Kapoli di Romania, the ancient Naplio, fituated at the bottom of a cognoiTiiiial bay, formerly called Sinub Argolicus, in 23 degrees -;o minutes of call longitude, and 37 de- grees 30 minutes of notth latitude. It Hands on a promontory, under which is a good haibuur; but thu pall'age fo narrow, that no more than one (hip can enter it at a time, I'he town is naturally ftrong, and likcwife has a caftic for its defence. It is the fee of an archbifhop, and is computed to contain fixty thouHiiid Grecian inhabitants, bcfides Jews and Turks, Argos flands on the river Inachus or Naio, weft of Napoli. This city, which was dedicated to Juno, was the capital of the kingdom of Argof, till Perleus removed the feat of the government to Myccii*, At the fiege of this [ilacc, Pyrrhut, king of Epirus, was killed by a tile, thrown by an old woman. 1 lis town is yet of confiderable extent, confiAing of mud- built cottages, with churches, walls, gardens, and open areas intcrfpcrfed. The devafiations of time and war have efiV.ccd '.he old city; no vcftigcs now rcmain- \nric order had kttainiid to mttutity. I'l'thapi it it ^ and in ihs acropolii or ci(ad«l, wa« » rtmaikuhlc flilue tlic ftrv|)liciiiii mentioned by Strabo. Corinth wai llu i of Minerva. At prefrnr, liowrvcr, no traicj of the noil illuDrioiii of all the fJtL'ck citie<, .,iid j^rcw to ' buiUlin;}!, cxii|ii a fiw li.i^jiiieiit:, rcttum j the file great powi'r and riches liy the r'mimoi'icnifnJj of iti lieiiv^ cither fown with lorn, oi ovri-iiin Willi buflui, fitu.itinn. But i 1. prudently infultln^ the Koman am balTadort, it wai involved in a wnr M'iih ihit nation, un-ler the conduct of Munimiui, who tnnit and burnt flowering flirubf, ledan, and almond- trcci. Fivo niilri fruin Kpidaurut wii the facrid giuvc ol /'EfcuU- piu', in which Hood the leir.(i|.- ■ f that deny, which the city to ihe ground. In this confljgr.''.:ii>n ditl'i-'rent wai always (loiided with lick pcifjiis. U.yond thi> tnetali running toQcihcr produced a iliird, wlneh wai ; building was the dormitoiy of the fupplianii i and near held III great enicni, and ijllcd .Ti Coruuhluin. Il i ic a circular edihce called the I holui, built by Folycic- wa5 alurward* irllond by CxI.ir In im .iiiiijnt liHendiir, lui, of white marble. The (jrn\e, belidet other temples, and made a Koman colony. The acrocnrinihin or citadel wai reckoned impre^'ii.iblc : when< e, according to loine, the proverb, A'si (iiivii k:ii:im .:iiliii{it (in'irt drimhum ; which .(tlicrs explain of the court Tin w.u adorned with a portico, an I a fonnuin, rerarka^lu for its roof and decoratiiim. I'he baih of yi'.iculapius was one of the bcnefailions of Antoninus l*,u», while a Rom.in fenatori as w.i3 alfo the houCe for the recep- Lais. 'I"hc inli.ibitants of Corinth are ginrially Chnf tion of prcjjnant women and dying pecfuni, who were ti.iiu, and it is the fee of a Greek archbilhop. . , previoufly removed out of the cnclofure, to be delivered, The air here is reputed to be bad in fummer, and ■ or to expire in the open air. 'I'hc remains of thofe in autumn exceedingly iinheji:hy) but the adj.ucnt ' buildings are heaps of Honr^, pieces of brick wall. country abounds wiih corn, wine, and oil. The narrowed part of the illhmus of Corinth is ubout fix miles over ; and here, on a m'lunt called Oneius, were celebrated the Illhmiun ganus every five years, 7'hc ftadium, however, is now not viliblej but fomc fragments remain of the ancient buildings. A few veftiges may be traced of the wall built by the Lacedaemonians crofs the illhr. .s from fei to fea, to fccure the Peloponnefian peninfula from the incurfioni of the Athenians. Attempts to unite the two gulphs by cutting acrofs the il)hmu!i, were fuccellivtly made, without cffeiSl, by Uemetiius, Julius Cxfar, Cali- gula, and Nero, and afterwards by Herodes Atticus, a private perfun. Olympia, nov/ called Longinico, is fituaied in it degrees of call longitude, and 37 ilcgrces 30 minutes of north latitude. Of this celebrated place badly nny vefliges now remain ; but it will ever be held in veneration for its precious xra by the chronologer and hiftorian. Here the games -^cre celebrated the begin- ing of every fifth year ; a period of four years complete being called an olympiad. Neinxa is fituated twenty five miles fouth of Corinth, • famous likewifc for its games, which were celebrated every third year. Lacedzmon, or Sparta, now called Mlfitra, is and fcaitered fragments of marble. 'I'he fpringi and wells by the ruins are now fuppofed to poflcft many excellent properties. To thofe and a good air, with the recreations of the ilieaire and of th.' liadium, joined to the medicinal knowledge of ihc priclis, may be attributed both (he recovery of the Tick, and th« re[iutation of iliifculapius. Since the god failed, fome faints have fuccceded to thu bufiners) and it is not uncommon in (his country to fee paiienti lying in bed in (he churches. '1 heferpentsof Epidaurut were facred to .^fculapiui, as were the tortoifei of mount Cithxron to Pan. One fpeciei, yellower than common, was peculiar to this region, and tame, perhaps from bcinn; never molelled. Thofe reptiles, fome of which are very large, and not venomous, flill abound. Of this kinl, probably, was the huge fcrpent, which, when the Romans in a time of public dlKrefs fent a folemn embalTy to the EpiJaurians, requelling the palTage of the god, failing to (he fhip, coiled i(felf in (he ftcrn 1 and being (aken for i^fculapius, was carried to Rome in great lolein- nity. Forty miles weft of Lacedimon, ftands Megalopolis, fituated at the foot of a mountain on (he nver Alpheus. This town, once the capital of Arcadia, was built under the aufpices of Epaminondas, after the battle fituate on the weft fide of the river Eurotas, in 23 ' of Lcu£)ra, many inconfiderable towns beirg joined degrees of caft longitude, and 36 degrees 45 minutes of i in one great city, the better to withftand the Spartani. north latitude. 7'he territory of Laconia, of which . The place is now called Leontari. it was the capital, was much IcCs in extent than that ( Belvidere, fituated on (he river Peneus, the capital of Athens, however it might be equal, or even fuperior of the territory of Bolviderc} whence are imported in power. From the conftitution of this celebrated thofe fmall raifins which are called by its name. This republic, which prohibited every kind of magnificence, town ftands on the fite of the ancient Elis, the place we cannot expe£l to meet with any traces of ancient of the nativity of the philofophers I'haido and Pyrrho, Modon is fituated on (he fouth C9aft of the Morea, and is defended by one of the ftrongeft fortreftes in the country. It has a comnoJious harbour, auJ is a place of confidcrable trade, ..' • _.■■•. , • ■ f' ' ' ' CHAP. buildings. In its flourifliing ftate, this place re- mained without walls, the bravery of the citizens, as Nepos remarks, being inftead of them. At length, however, when the government fill into the h.inds of tyrants, who diftruftcd their defence by arms, a wall T'»itv.J c II Of iIk iiiimt, ifji (i U N E R A L TRAVELLER. m A P. V. tnnnniri, cuj\tm>t iht Cniti. ITAVINO finifhH the furvfy of the GrecUn *• tcrriloiKi, we (hilt next like a view of the in- h.il)iltii(«, who, nntwithlltndlni; ihey no longer por.i;''a the I'fiirit ufliberty which diftinguilhed their illuft'iou< • iicenori, yet retiiiii the other ri.iturei of the luliuiul charaiflcr, to the »lmo(l inviriabic obfrrvance of the miiineri anil cuOomi of antiquity. The fame ardor of inia;ination, the (aine vivacity of lumper, and turbu- lence of difpoliiion, fo confpicuouj in the (Jrcrki of old, arc difcernil.'u in thofc of the prrfent lime. Kven the charj^e brought agaliill the ancient Gieciana, of bcin,:; addii^id tu lying, Gradu mtnJcix, may with Juftice be applied to the moderns. The cuftom con- tinue) ei|ually familiar of confirming their afTerliuni with an oath, which ii alfo the fame that wai ufed by rhs ancicnti. Nothing ii more common than to hear fathers and motliem fwear by the livei of their children, and their own headi, or by thofc of other perfuni. In their buildings the modern Greeks obferve the fame dirpifitiun .IS the ancients. 1'he men and women have f'-iiiiate gp:\rtments, called andtonitis, and gynx- CI (litis i of Nvhich the latter, for the fecurity of their v.'ives, is alw.iys in the interior part of the building. Tluir .ire no cliimnies in the Greek houfes. A brazier is I'l.iccil In the middle of the room, that thofe who an- not fufficicnily warmed at a dillance, may more convrnlenilv draw near it i and this utenfil, as in anci' lit times, is placrd upon a tripod. Ti) defend the face from the heat and fmoke of the brazfcr, it is covered with a tendour, or fquare table } over which is a carpet, with a cloth of filk, more or Id's tiMgnilicent, Round this apparatus, fofas or ccOiions are placed, for the accommodation of the conip.iiiy. The tendour is ufcd chiefly by the ladies, while engaged at their embroideiy, an employment which occupiei the greater part of every day during the win:cr, the remainder being fpent in receiving the vifits of their friends. The ancient curtom of retaining the nurfc who foftered their children, ftill fubfifts among the beft families in Greece. When (he has reared o ie child, (he is thenceforward incorporated into the family, and bears the name of paramaiia, a word which fignilies I'econd mother. The Greek ladies, conformably to the cuflom of the ancients, prefent the hand to be kifled by their daughters, their (laves, and other pcrfons who are their inferiors. The manner in which the girls falute thofe of their own fex and rank, is kilting the eyes, while they mutually take hold of each others ears. This cuftom likewifc, a: appears from Theocritus, is rery ancient. The Greeks have an enthuflaftic paflton for black eyes ; and the women ftill continue the cuflom of painting the eyebrows, and the hairs of the r\e-lids, No. 15. of • bliick Colour, which ihry peifurm by mtint of • preparation of antimony and |all-nut, 'I he women have diUVrrnt modes of drrfllng ibt and hijl»ry if ^ head, mora or Icfs ornamented. Sometimca the hair flows in irclTei on the (houlderi, at other times it it formed into a roll, or negligently tied with floweri. In the laft of ihofu methods, we may rtcognitf ih« practice of the Lacedxmunian ladies. 7'he young women of (ireec* formerly wort their hair knotted, which is alfu the culKim at prefent, Almofl the onl/ circuniilance in which the drefi of the modern Greek ladiea dilTeri from that of the ancient, it that they no longer follow the cudom of wearing aigrctiei, in their hair, becaufe their raps aro made tu cover their head. * The veil worn by the Greek ladies is generally of mullin, bordered with goldi and that of the common people, of a coarfer fort of plain muflin 1 but ii if always white. When a woman prepares to go abroad, (he puts up her hair, and raifet her vcil| which anfweri to the dcfcripiion given by Claudian of Venus rifinj; from her toilet. The ufual female drcfs confini of • petticoat, and « loofe robe, tied round with ■ girdle, fo famous in the ancient poets. The latter ii generally embroidered, and frequently fallened by a buckle with diamonds or emeralds, refembling that of Venus as defcribed by (Inmer. On their heads, fome women wear a mitri or fcarf, of the fame form which was anciently ufed. The dreft of the men is the fame with that of the Turks, which will be afterwards defcribed. The laws ofhofpitality, for which the ancient Greeki are fo much famed, are religioufly obferved by the moderns } and they (till delight in feafis, paftimea, public fpc£lacles, and luxury. Being prohibited from all exterior pomp and fplendor, they compenfate this redriflion by their magnificence within doors. In the houfea of the richeft men, nay be obferved all the tafle, difpofition, and grandeur of the ancient inh«> bitants of Athens. The walla ire elegantly painted with vafes and flowers 1 the cielinga are carved and gilt in a fuperb ftyle, and furroiinded with plaiflercd cornices of excellent workmanfhTp. At the marriagea of the modern Greekt an cpithala- mium is ftill performed, and the celebrated torch of Hymen continues to blase in the proceffion to the nup- tial bed, near which it ii afterwards placed, where it burnt till the whole it confumed. If by any accident it (hould be exftinguilhed, the moit ominous prefagtt would be drawn | on which account it it watched with ai much care at the facred fte formerly by the vedals. Variout other ceremonies attending the marriages of the ancient Greeks are likewife (till praAifed. On« cuftom, however, is peculiar to the moderns, which is, that by ;*ieir religion they are enjoined continence the iirft night of ma.-riage. This injunAion was for- merly c(labli(hed in fome other countries of Europe, and was introduced at the fourth council of Carthage, in the year 398. As the priefts had the power of dif- penfation, the cuftom was probably the fource of great emolument to that order. The fame refemblance which is apparent between the nuptial ceremoniet of the ancient and modern X z Greeki, »^ 178 THE M D R N [Europe. Greeks, fubfida in thofeofthc funeral, andisconfpicuous in the cuAom of lamenting thi: dcccafed with all the de.Tonftratinns of forrow, of wafliiiig the dead body, dreffing it with flowers, and of the funeral feaft. At their convivial entertainments, the modern Greeks difcovcr not only the ancient cxccfs, and nm;>licity of behaviour, but alf'' a(c the feflal crowns, fu frequently niCntioncd by the poets. The lyre and guittar are (lill their chief mufical inftruments. In refpeifl of the language of the Greeks, notwith- flanding it has futFered great corruption from the ig- norance of the people, and the ufc of TurkiOi expref- lions, yet it prc'crvcs all the tichnefs and harmony of the ancient Greek tongue; with this difference, that the verbs of the moderns arc more eafily conjugated, being cut tailed of the aoriAs; and that the ufc of the dual number is alfo difcontinued. The language of love appears to be riarticularly emphatic amongd thofe people, a. .J auuu.ids with the warmeft exprcffions of paillon. .. iiich they Lvifli profufcly on their miftrefles. Significant, iiowcvcr, as is their l.inguage, it is held inadequate for dilplaying the vehemence of their amor ous fire, ami the mofl extravagant ai5lions arc ufcd to dcmonflrate their pallion for the fair. It is the opinion of fome learned men, that the Greeks dcfccnded from Javan or Ion, the fon of Japhet, and grandfon of Noah, and that from the n ime of Ion, all Greece was anciently called Ionia. But who- ever were thL' firft inhabitants, it is univerfally agreed that the chief cities owed their origin to colonies of the Egyptians and Phoenicians} the former of whom inftruflcd the people in laws and polity, and the latter in writing and navigation. The moft ancient town in Greece was Sicyon, built in the year of the world 1915, 2089 before Chrift, and 1313 years before ihe firft Olympiad. It flood in the nonh-caft pai t of the Peloponnefus, near the fitc of Napoli dc Romania, and is faid to have continued a thoufand years. The kingdom of Argos commenced in tha year of the world 2148, and 1S56 years before Chrift, in the time of Abraham. It was founded by Inachus, and flood alfo in the north-eaft part of the Morea. Befides the former colonics, the Egyptians fent feveral others to Greece in the time of Mofcs. \Vc are informed in particular, that Cfcrops built twelve towns, which being afterwards united, 1556 years before Chrift, became the city of Athens, About the year 1455 before Chrift, Cadmus, the Phoenician, founded Thebes in Rffiotia, fituatcd thirty miles north-eaft of Athens. He is faid to have not only introduced letters, but to have indrufled the natives in the religion of Syria. Danaus, the brother of Scfoftris king of Egypt, being accufed of a confpiracy agaiiift his brother, Hcd into Greece, where he obtained the throne of Argos in the year of the world 2553, and before the Chriftian xra 1451 years. In the year of the world 2682, Pclops, a native of Phryia in Afia Minor, procured the fovercignty of part of ; dloponnefus, and communicated his name to the whole pcninfula, which is now called the Morea, Troy is fuppofed to have been taken by the Greeks in the year of the world 2816, and before the Chriflian 1184. At this pcriud ends that part of the Grecian hirtory whi.-h is ilyled fabulous. Laccdxmon, or Sparta, appears to have been founded about the fame time as Athens. The firft king of this c:'y was .^urotus, but it was a.Viwardi governed by the Heraclidse, or def'.-endants of Hercules, the fon of Jupiter and Alcmena, Ariilodamus, the firft king of this race, left his dominions to his tv/o Tons Kriilhenes and Procleji, in the year of the world 29CO, and before the Chriftian xra 1104. 1 hufe princes during their lives leigMcd jointly, as did likcwifc their poftcrity for almoft nine h'.indred years, till the deuch of CIcomtnes. Lacedxmun has been rendered particularly famoua by the inftitutions of Lycurgus its l.iwj^iver. This extraordinary pcrfonagc was the fon oftuiionius, one of the two kings of llic country, and conduced the affairs of government during the minority of his nephew Charilausj to whom, upon coming of age, he refigncd his authority, after makinj great iiltcrations in the conftitution of the ftate. He inllitutcd twenty-eight fenators, to fcrve as u mutual cheek bulh upon the kings and people, when ciilier of them attempted to encroach on the privileges of the other. Suceciding princes tftabliftied live other magiftrates, called cphori, eledicd by the people, and who continued in ofHce only one year. Thefc were veftcd with a pov.'er of calling their kings to account, and even of imprifon- ing their perfons. By another inftltution of Lycurgus, the lands were equally divided among the people, with the view of abolifliing every diftinition, except fui h as might be acquired by virtue alone. For thn fume end he alfo prevailed on the inhabitants to divide their moveable goods and ch.ittels. To banifh avarice from the commonwealth, he prohibited the ufe of gold and filver coin, ordaining that money fliould be made of no other metal but iron ; which was fo heavy that it required a cart and oxen to draw the value of twenty pounds fterling. He next abolLlied all ufelefs arts, compelling thofe who profelTed them to remove out of the country. He alfo obliged the citizens to eat in public, at common tables, upon the moft homely fare. Every table held fifteen perfons, to which none could be admitted with- out the confcnt of the whole board. Each perfon was obliged to furnifh every month one buflicl of flour, eight meafures of wine, five pounds of checfc, twe pounds and a half of figs, and a fmall fum for drcfling their viiHuals. So indifpenfible was the duty of at- tending at meals, that when king Agis, on returning from a fuccefifui expedition, prefumed to cat with hit wife in private, he was fined for ihis tranf^renion of the laws. All the male children were alfo obliged to cat at common tables, where they were enteitai/icd wirh ferious difcourfes upon government, and nothing that tended to corrupt their morals was ever permitted in convcrfation. An injunflion particul.iily inculcated to the youth at thofe meetings Wiisfecrcfy. Wl)en any of them entered the hall, the eldeft man in ihe company I would tlii TuaKY.] GENERAL T'R A V E L L E R. m would fjy to hliiii pointing to the duur, Nulliing fpokcn licrc miift go out there. No ptrfoiis Wfic pirniitted to give their diildren a private cducatiun, but jII were inflruclcd publicly in the mor.il duties and in bodily c,\:rcifcs. They were taught to dcfpife all foppery in drcfs, and to fubniit with patience to pain and fatigue. Such, we are told, was their conftjncy, that at a feftival cele- brated in honour of Diana, the boys would fuficr themfelvcs to be \vh'..?Ded to death without uttering a groan. ard tried caufcs oMy in the night, that their attention to the plc.idiiigs might not be diverted, nor their in- clinations biallf--! liy the appearance and deportment of the pleaders. Amphiflyon, the third king, formed an alliance between twelve Grecian nations, which afTcnibled twice a year at Thsrmopylx, to offtr their common facrifices, and delibet.ite on the affairs of the fevcral flales. This convention \v^^- called the afTembly of the .Xmphiiftyons, after the r me of the king by whom It was introduced. The moft remarkable reign in this period is that of The Spartans fpcnt great part of their time in the Egcus, the fon jf Pandion, -under which are placed halls, where the ufual fubjeiSls of convcrfation were the love of their country, and the public good. Befulcc all mechanic employments they were difchargcd fiom ptadifing even agriculture, this bufmefs being left en- tirely to the helots or ilavcs. They always implored the divine aid on entering upon a war, and it wac an inviolable law among them never to turn their back upon an enemy, how- ever fuperior in number. If any perfon had committed fuch an si£i of cowardice, he was condemned by the laws to go with the half of his beard flii:vcd ; and befides being treated with univerfal contempt, he 0iight be beaten with impunity, by any member of the ftate. The laws of Lycurgus were in fomc inflances ex- tremely barbarous. Of this kind were thofe which enjoined the cxpoflng and taking away the lives of fuch infants as appeared of weakly conftitutions, or were born in any meafurc deformed. Of the fame nature was that, which, under the pretext of infpiring fortitude, ordered their bravcll youths to be whipped to death, without having committed any crime. The cruel treatment of the helots was alfo extremely un- juftiiiable; nor is lefs cenfure due to the indecent cullom of fufTering the women to appear and dance naked in the prefencc of the men. When Lycurgus had reviewed his laws, and ex- perienced their good cfl'eils on the community, his next objcft was to render the obligation of them per- manent. For this purpofc he informed :!ie Spartans that there yet remained one point very ncceflary to be conHdercd, about which he refolvcd to confult the oracle of Apollo; requiring them to take an oath, that they would inviolably maintain the cftabliOied form of government until his return. On his arrival I llyled a !• lant, reigned -vith great moderation thirty the expedition of the Argonauts, the labours ot Her- cules, and the wars of Minos, the r<:cond king of Crete, with the Athenians. The twelve citiei built by Cccrop", however, were not united till the r:ign of Thefeus, after which period they art' kn )wn ly the name . f Athens, On the death of Codi..o, who devoted himftlf to die for hia country, the title of king was abolifhcd by the Athc> nians, and his fon Medon governed the city under the appellation of archon. At firfl this dignity was for life; but the Athenians thinking that the office bore too great a rcfemblance to the regal power, ordained that their archons fliould be ele£led every ten years, and afterwards changed this regulation for that of au annual appointment, the authority of the archons being at the fame time greatly abridged. Great diforder, however, foon proved to be the confe(iuence of th« limitations which hrd been impofed on the power of tlie chief magiftrate; to remedy which evil, the people put themfelvcs under the. direi£lion of Draco, a man of integrity, who, in orc'er to reflrain the licentioufners which prevailed, inflidled death as the pnniftiment of every crime. But the ftvcrity of this regulation being found to defeat its own purpofe, the people chofe for their archon the famous Solon, eftecmcd the firft of the (even fagcs of Greece, who repealed all the laws of his prcdeceflbr, except that for the punifhmcnt of murder, and made fevcral other important regulations. Solon travelling to the courts of Crcelus and H(>ypt, and returning, after ten years abfence, :o Athens, found thf city in great confufion. Th.-ec faiflions were conttmiinj; for the fupreme authciity At the head of one of thv-fe was Pififtratus, 'vho at length obtained fovercign p;>wcr ; but who, though ufually at Dclpho?, and enquiring of the oracle, whether the laws which he had mad? were good, and fufficicnt to render the Spartans happy and virtuous, he ret ivcd for anfwcr, th,\t nothing was wanting, and that as long as the Lacedaemonians obfcrved thofe laws, they would be the mod glorious and happy people in the world. Lycurgus having tranfm'.ttcd to Sparta the lefponfc of the oracle, voluntarily put an end to his life by fading; an event which he confidercd as of the greatcft advantage to the Laccdwmonians, fuuc in viri'ic of their oath tlicy wuuld b? obliged to a perpe- tual obfcrvancc of his laws. The fiiflking in Attica was Cecrops, the Egyptian, who ereited the court of arcopaj;us. The members of this aA'cmbly held the'; uiiions in the open air. years. Hi was fuccccded by his fons Hippias and Hippar.:hus, who, ifter they had reigned about eighteen years, were depofcd by Hermodlus and Ariftoi^oton, two popular Athenians; and Athens recovered its dc- mocratical government in the fame year that the kings were expelled from Rome. The government of Corinth was firft eftabliflicd in the year of the wo: Id 2628, and before the Chriftian epoch 1376. This city was fubjcft to Argos, until he was difpofTefled by Sifyphus, whori" dcfceiidants for fiimc time enioycd the regal power, but were deprived (if this rank bv thi; Herntlida:, about a hundred and ten years after the f'orium, likcwife the port of Lace. demon. Tusk v.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. i8i ij;irron. The allies of the Athenians were Platca, t!ic Mcllliiijns of Naupactus, the greater part of the Ar;:iiu:ni:in', th Jyclades, and molt (if the ifiaiiJj in the Kgeaii Sta; Willi fevcr.il cities of Thrace, and of Afia .Minor. The LaccJjniDnians hcing joined by their ;illjes, marched into Attica with an army of f.xty thoufand nr.'n, and invtlKd Athens, But I'e- riclc'-, uho conimanJeil in the city, having previotifly d.-privcci the enemy of the means of fuhfiftencc, cither by deftroying or fecuring all the provifuins i-i the country; and the latter being likcwifc informed that j the Athenian fleet was making dcfcents in Pelopon- j nefus, tluy ab.indoncd the liege, and ruturncd with I precipitation to their own territories. ' Next year the Spartans and tlieir allies again aflem- blcd their forces, ar.d marched into Attica, where the Athenians, as fonierly, continued to act on the dc- fenfive. A terrible plague, however, which ravaged ulmofl the whole continent of Afia, breaking cut in the city, great numbers of the inhabitants were dc- ftroycd. In this mil'erable condition, they were re- duced to make ortcrs of peace to the invaders upon very difadvantagcous terms, but which were not ac- cepted by the latier. Mean tin)e the Spartan?, finding their country per- petually hnrrafled hy the Athenian fleet, and having neither a fufTicient force to guard their coafts, nor money to pay their troops, fent an embafl'y to Darius king of Pcrfia, to propofe an alliance with him, and rcqueft his affiflance. The anibafTadors, however, were made prifoners on their route, and being fcnt to Athens were pu* fo death in an i^^nominious manner, to retaliate a (itnilar inlult which had been recently ofFered by the Lacediemotiians. Never \v;\s any war carried on with greater barbarity than that which fubfilted at this time between the Grecian flates. The inhabitants of Lefbos being about to enter into an alliance with Sparta, the Athe- nians fei.t a fleet to fubdue the ifland, which after they had cffecSted, they malTacred in cold blood all that had cxiirefled their approbation of that alliance. The Spartans, on the other hand, put all the Platseans to the frtcird, after they had furrendered at difcretion. During ;hc firfl fevcn yi ars of the w.-'r hnflilities were cxeiciled chiefly in mutual di-pt iation; but in the tenth ye>r, each of the p rties being wearied with thofc inrurfinn?, they concluded a peace for fifty years, which continue naries, or learnt it from the Roman miHionaries, When a perfun amongil them is fick, he is anointed with oil by the priells, of whom three is the fmalleft number allowed to perform this ceremony. They anoint even the fick man's hou.'t with facred oil, making the fign of the crofs on the doors and door- pods. Second marriages are not approved by the Greeks, and third and fourth marriages are efteemcd wicked. The age at which the parties can contradl is fourteen on the fide of the man, and thirteen on that of the woman; but the marriage is void, unlefs ratified by the confent of the parents or guardians. Like the papifts, they prohibit marriage with fpiritual relations : a man therefore is prohibited from marrying the daughter or fitter of his godfather, or any other that is nearly related to him, A divorce is eafily obtained among them j for if it be refufcd, the men make no fcruple of maintaining a criminal correfpondence with other women. The only creed they repeat is the Nicene. They cenfure the worfliip of images, but adore piflufes in their churches, before which, and at the holy table, they burn incenfe. With this likewife the people are frequently perfumed} and they unlverfally abftain from blood. Their churches, like ours, (land eaft and weft, and are divided into three parts. The wefl end is allotted to the women, who are feparated by a lattice, through which they can fee without being perceived. The middle of the church is occupied by the laymen, and the eaft end by the clergy. In their churches they neither fit nor kneel, but when fatigued with ftanding, they arc permitted the ufe of crutches. At the election of a patriarch a great fum is always demanded of him by the grand feignior, without whole confirmation, or that of the grand vizier, he cannot enter upon his ofHce. Bcfides this, and large douceurs cxpc£ied by the fultana and court favourites, he is obliged to pay an annual tribute, for the raiflng of which he in)pofcs a tax on the biftiops and inferior clergy. Every prieft pays him a year's profit of his living, on his entrance upon it. He alfo reaps emo- lument by marriage licences and difpenfations, as well as by perqiiifites in all civil caufes, in which he is the only judge. His revenue, at a moderate compu- tation, may amount to thirty or forty thoufand crowns a year ; but the greater part of this fum is extorted from him by the Turkilh officers, who alfo levy on every Chriflian a poll tax, in conflderation of the re- ligious liberty which they are permitted to enjoy. The revenues of the priefts are very fmall, ten pounds a year being efteemed a good living; and out of this an annual fum is regularly paid to the bifliop. They a^e not allowed to exercife any fccular employ- ment, and are diflinguilhcd from the laity by a black caflbc, and a cap of the fame colour, in the form of the crown of a hat. Notwithftanding their poverty they are held in great veneration by the people, who always behave towards them with marks of the higheft refpedt, CHAP. vn. Of the TurkiJI) ijlands. H AVING travcrfed the continent of the Turkifli empire, we proceed to the defcription of its iflands, which are ufually ranked either in Europe or Afia, according to their proximity to the coafts of thofe great divifions of the globe. We fliall begin with Cyprus, as being the moft cafterly, CYPRUS. Cyprus is (ituatc between 32 and 35 degrees of eaft longitude, and between 34 and 36 degrees of north I uitude, fixty miles fouth of the coaft of Caramania or Cilicia, and thirty miles weft of that of Syria. It is about a hundred and fifty miles long, and feventy broad; Here is one of thofe mountains called Olympus, but in the whole iftand there are no fprings or rivers, ex- cept fuch as the rains produce ; which happening to be deficient thirty years fucceffively, in the reign of Conftantine the Great, the inhabitants were obliged to abandon the place for fome time. The ufual pro« ducc of the ifland is corn, wine, oil, wool, cotton, fait, 1 84 T H E M O J) K Jl N [F.ur.orr. f.ilt, and lomc filk, wiili iilcnly ol' 1\l{\^, hfli, anJ fowl. 'J'lic mcrtliiints of l.nfopc nml Ali.\ iVcii'jciuiy rcliiitiiig liidicr, C; |):iis c: j'lys a br!(k tiaiii;, but it has fo mutli iin.Iiai.il in Icitility ami populuiirucrs fiiicf it came into tlic h.iiuls of the 'I'liik-, tliat li.ilf the laiuls at prcfciit lie uiitultiv.iltj. This in.iiiJ wab full pciplcil from Syria, anJ iliviilcd into fcvcr.il petty H..l^ Pal mira . n'o/?f mr lie,) /■ fort Tpeaic Iialian, which has been introduced by the Venetians, who were long in pofieilion of the ifland. The eftabliflied religion is the Mahometan, though the Chriftian is tolerated, as in other parts of the Turkifli empire. The carlieft accounts of this ifland are involved in poetical iiAion, and the mylleries of the heathen my- thology. So far as we can carry our refearches into the events of thofe remote times, it appears that Crete was anciently governed by a king of the name of Saturn, who was dethroned and expelled tlie country by his fon Jupiter, a profligate prince, but to whom, after his death, the people paid divine honours; and this fuperftition gradually diffufing itfelf, he became in time the principal god of the whole heathen world. One of the moft memorable occurrences mentioned in the fabulous period of the Cretan hiftory, is the amour of Pafiphae, the wife of Minos king of the ifland, who was the fon of Jupiter by Europa. Pafi- phae, notwithftanding (he had feveral children by her hufband, having an intrigue ^yith one of his officers. No. 16. a channel about fiye hundred paces bropd. The fmaller Delos is of an oval figure, about fix miles in circumference; and thtf other eighteen. The former of thofe iflands was much celebrated in ancient times, as being the birth-place of Apollo and Diana; in honour of whom public feftivals were inftituted, to which all the neighbouring iflands feat hither priefts, facrifices, and choirs of virgins. The number of the Cyclades, which contributed to thofe folemnities was at firft only twelve, but they were afterwards joined by almoft all the iflands in the Egean Sea, and in procefs of time by the inhabitants of Greece, and the countries northward of it. Upon the deftrudfion of Corinth by the Romans, the wealth and trade of that city were removed hither; the merchants being invited to this ifland, not only on account of the goodnefs of its ports, and the convenience of its fltuation between Europe and Afia, but chiefly becaufe of its immunities, and exemption from cuftoms and impoGtions. According to the poets, Delos was once a floating ifland. Thucydidcs informs us that no dog was al- Z z lowed •r I — 1 1 I t #^_ ■t ■-•-I IS. if t ";, S »..",. • ..luniv,. Ill the miildlu u!' tlic lil.uiJ, aiul is ;'.liaut three miles in ciicuir.fcrjncc. 2. I'.-imagufta, the ancient Gal.iniij, a port-to'.vn touMriK tlie eaft cm! of die iflunJ, al.Tiafl cpiivjfitc U) Tr'poli in Syria. 3. ISiiTo, ihc anciint Paphos, Titualcd at the weft end of the illaiid. 4. S-- rtncs, on the north fide. 5. Salines, on the Ibiith. 6. LymilTi or Ainatlius, fmiatcd likcwifc on the (outii coafl, and rcckoiud ihe bell pert in tlic illand. The ,'.ncic-i!t tVinale inhabitants of C)j)riis are rc- prel'ented a', proltiiiitcs, and are faid to have olFcnd tlienif'.lves 10 ail llraiigers who vifucj their coalts; which i;c[h,ii:.s was tlie rcafun of tlu- idaiid hein^; dedi- cated to Vcn'ii. No Vi;!li;^cs rtniain of the temple of Paphm, ntiilv.r is any thing to be fcen of llie myrtle grove o( Klarmu, which once covered the pro- montory on the call fide of the ill md, now caILd Capo di Giicgc). The Chrifiian inhabitants of thli ifland arc generally Greeks or Ainienians, of whom the former have flill an arthbifhv'p in the city of Nicaria. . iiiftiii rt'tinin tne wans in ti'.e n'gtit-tinic."" At the moiiih of the birhour "f l'h;)dcs, which is fifty fathoms wide, flood the famDtib Colofius of brafs, ffltnicd one of the v.inJcrs of the world. This li'J^'; (latue, tl.e worii of Chaics tr.e Lindian, and kh liar of L)fippus, was feventy cn'aits in h,';;:iit: a foot was placed on each fide of the harbour, fo cii it fliips palTeJ between its legs. This ctlebrated imni;tf : was 0-. c-u!i:own by an carihquakj fifty fix years after its crciniiJii. 'I'hc Rhodians were the naval power next in confidcr- ation to ilic I'hicnicians and Cirthayinians. They liclJ ■ out liini; ajalntl: the Greeks, but at laft became th.ir I airociatcf, till lolicitin,^ proici^ion againft the .Maccdn- I nians, they fubinittcd to receive a Roman governor. ' I'Voin this lime the city of Rhodes was reckoned the grcateft nurfvry for learning in the eaftcrn part of the world. Here Csfar Ihidicd, and hither Iikev.'ife Tiberius pretended to retire ''or the fame purpofe. 1 Upon the divifion of the Roman empire, this ifland f..ll to the (liare of the eaflcrn emperor. In the year 1 1 24, TURKV.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 185 II14« it wa» ttken by the Vcr.etiins, but recovered by the emperor of the Eaft, in lai;. About fifty- fix yeiri afterward! it wai talcen by the knighti of St, John of Jerufalem, who bravely defended it during the fpace of two hundred yean. SCARPANTO. Scarpanto i> fituate in 37 degrees of eaft longitude, and 36 of north latitude, twenty miles fouth-wcft of Rhodes, This is the ancient Carpathus, whence arofe the proverb, Carpathius leporem, denoting an inconfiderate a£lion which proves hurtful ; hares, which were brought into the ifland having multiplied fo faft as to deftroy all the corn. C A N D I A. Candia, the ancient Crete, is fttur.te between 13 and 27 degrees of eaft longitude, and between 35 and 36 degrees of north latitude. It is about two hundred miles in length, and fifty in breadth. There is here no confiderable river, but many little rivulets, of which Lethe is one of the largeft. The higheft of the mountains is the celebrated mount Ida, which occupies the middle of the ifland ; the nurfingplace of Jupiter, and where his tomb was vifited in the time of Varro, Notwithftanding the fine defcriptions of it in the an- cient poets, it is only a huge barren rock, deftitute of trees and herbage. The air of this ifland is temperate, and the foil rich and fertile, abounding with corn, oil, wine, and fruits of various kinds. The chief commodities are, muf- cade winr, malmfey, fugar, fugar- candy, honey, wax, gum, olives, &c. Crete bad once a hundred cities, and was therefore called Hecatompolis, At prefent, however, there are only three or four, and thofe not confiderable ; but there is a number of villages, and the country is well inhabited. The common language of the natives is the modern Greek and Turkifli ; but moft of the better fort fpeak Italian, which has been introduced by the Venetians, who were long in pofTeflion of the ifland. The eftablifhed religion is the Mahometan, though the Chriftian is tolerated, as in other parts of the Turkifli empire. The earlicft accounts of this ifland are involved in poetical ii£lion, and the myfteries of the heathen my- thology. So far as we can carry our refearches into the events of thofe remote times, it appears that Crete was anciently governed by a king of the name of Saturn, who was dethroned and expelled the country by his fon Jupiter, a profligate prince, but to whom, after bis death, the people paid divine honours; and this fiiperftition gradMally diffufing itfelf, he became in time the principal god of the whole heathen world. One of the moft memorable occurrences mentioned in the f£>ulous period of the Cretan hiftory, is the amour of Pafiphae, the wife of Minos king of the ifland, who was the fon of Jupiter by Europa. Fafi- phaii, notwithftanding (he had feveral children by her hulband, having an intrigue ^ith one of his officers. No. 16. whofe name anfwered to a bull, was with child b/ this gallant} when the aflfair coming to the king's can, he threw into prifon Dsedalus, .> ^erfon who had been acceflary to the amour. The latter, however, made his efcape, and by the means of fails which he had invented, out-ftripping all the boats that were fent to bring him back, he arrived in Sicily ; but his fon Icarus, not bring fufliciently acquainted with the management of his vefTcl, was cad away. This Dzdalus appears to have been an ingenious man, and the author of feveral curious invention!. One of thofe was a labyrinth, into which, whoevef entered far, was loft as in a wildernefs. Here Minol fliut up the Athenian youths whom he required to be fent to him every year, and put them to death ; till Thefeus, by the afllftance of Ariadne, Minos's daugh- ter, found his way out of the labyrinth, after killing thofe who had been employed to facrifice the young Athenians. After the extin£lion of the regal power, the Cretani formed themfelves into a republic, till Qi Metcllu^ conquering the ifland, made it a province of the Roman empire. It continued under the emperors of Con- ftantinople, till about the year 823, when the Saracens furprifed and took it, and built the city Candia, which in time gave name to the ifland. Being retaken by the emperor Nicephorua Phocas, Baldwin, earl of Flanders, and afterwards emperor, gave it to Boniface, marquis of Montferrat, who fold it to thri Venetians for a great fum of money. The latter held it above four hundred years, when after a brave defence, it was taken from tiiem by the Turks, in the yeir 1669. D E L O S. Delos, the center of the iflands of Cycladn, !i fituate in 25 degrees 50 minutes eaft longitude, and 37 degrees 26 minutes north latitude. There are two iflands of this name, called in the plural number Zdeli, the largeft of which is alfo known by the appellation of Rhenia. They are feparated from each other by a channel about fiire hundred paces broad, Th6 fmaller Delos is of an oval figure, about fix miles in circumference; and the other eighteen. The former of thofe iflands was much celebrated in ancient times, as being the birth-place of Apollo and Diana; in honour of whom public feftivals were inftituted, to which all the neighbouring iflands feat hither priefts, facrilices, and choirs of virgins. The number of the Cyclades, which contributed to thofe folemnities was at firft only twelve, but they were afterwards joined by almoft all the iflands in the Egean Sea, and in procefs of time by the Inhabitants of Greece, and the countries northward of it. Upon the deftrufflon of Corinth by the Romans, the wealth and trade of that city were removed hither; the merchants being invited to this ifland, not only on account of the goodnefs of its ports, and the convenience of its fituation between Europe and Afia, but chiefly becaufe of its immunities, and exemption from cuftoms and impoGtions. According to the poets, Delos was once a floating ifland. Thucydidcs informs us that no dog was al'« Z z lowed m H M D E N [CUROPt. ]oweJ to be on (he idnnJ, nor a dead body buried in it. I'he PrMema Ddiucuin wai fanioui among tlic ancient geometticiani. It confined in duuMin;; the ultar of Apollo in Dclos, which win a perfcdt cubc) and was propofed to the people of Dclu«, fur a fuliition, on conl'u ting the oracle how they mij^ht be I'rccd frutn t I lague with which they were inreflcd. There are Aill upon this idand vad heaps of maihic ruins, fume of uhich bebnged to the temple of Apullo, as appcam by the trunk of his (latuc found amongll them. This ftatue was four times larger thin (he life; for (he flioulders were fix foot broad, and the reft of the body proportionable. His locks hanging round his flioulders are yet to be feen, with marks in Mch curl, where it Is probable (ha( jewels have been fct, Hii giidle alfo fccms to have been richly adorned, and on the left fliouldcr he wore a light muiiilc. On the fiJcs of the hilli, are fevera! landing-places, admirably beautitied with porticoes and other flru^lures, as appears from the tnultitude of pillars, pedeflals, and architraves, with many fragments of excellent marble, ranging ftrait and parallel to each other. In the Greater Delos alfoare many magnificent ruins, among which are upwards of fix fcore of altars. Moft of them, are cylindrical, adorned with feftoons, inter- woven with the heads of oxen or rams, Thry are ufually about three foot and a half in height, and three foot in diameter. On etc of them, below the feftoons, is reprefented a bunch of grapes, whence (his aUar is fuppofed to have been dedicated to Bacchus. The mountains here, which are not very high, afford ex- cellent pafturage, and the valleys, if cultivated, would produce corn id wine; but this illand, as well as the other Delos, is perfeiAly dcferted, except by the "hcii'icrds whom the people of Myconc fend hither to attend their herds and flocks. M Y C O N E. The ifland of Mycone is fituate in 15 degrees 6 minutes of eaft longitude, and in 37 of north lati- tude, three miles north-caft of the Lefs Delos. It is about thirty miles in circumference, containing very little wood, and hardly a well in the whole country. The foil produces corn, wine, and figs, with a few olives. It is computed that there are about five hundred fea-faring men on the ilTand, who have many of them the reputation of being rovers. The town of Mycone is fuppofed to contain three thoufand inha- bitants. Hither the rovers ufually bring (heir plun- der, and here they keep (heir wives and children. The women in general have ■» greater reputation fur beauty than chaftity, and th.*ir cloaths reach no farther down than a little below their knees. The inhabitants of this iiland are moft of them Chriftians of the Greek church, and have m:.giftrates of their own religion \ but a Turkifh officer comes an- nually to collefl the taxes which they pay to the Porte. Sometimes they are atfo vLTited by a cadi, who holds a court for determining fach controverfies as may be appealed from the magiftrates. The ifland contains no lefs than fifty Greek churches, which h.-ive each their papa or priefts ) and there i» likewif* a nunnery, with fome munaftirici. N A X O S, Naxos, or Naxia, is fituate in 3.6 degrees oaft lun- gitude, and 3(7 degrees 30 minutes of north latitude, fifteen miles I'outh of Mycone. It is of an ov.il form, about a hundred miles in circumference. 'I'here is here but one town, which flands on the fouth lidc oi the idand, and about forty villages, inhabited by (iriek and Latin ChiiHi.iin, of whom the former ate molt nuniiruui. The mutual aiiimofily of thofe two kiU is incredible, and can only be equalled by the extravagant vanity of both. Their difcourfe turn* I almoft conPand bringa up the rear. The gentlemen of Nax,\ fcldoin. vifit each other, but amufc thrmfelves chiefly with hunting either deer or other game. The villages are not very populous, the whole inhabitants of the ifland beinj; computed not to exceed a thoufand perfons. There are however two archbifliops, one of the Latin, and the other of the Greek church; the latter of ..hon; has a handfome revenue, the iflands of Paros and Antipnros being alfo within his jurifdidlion. The inhabitants, as in moft of the other iflands, eled their governors from among thcmfelves; but are fometimes vifited by a cadi or Mahometan judge, to whom they appeal as to the laft refort. An officer comes regularly every year to colledl the taxes, which amount to ten thoufand crowns and upwards. Such is the fervile difpofition of the people, that the meaneft Turkifli officer who arrives in the ifland but occafionally, is conftdered, while he remains, in a manner as governor of the ifland, ard may order whom he pleafea to undergo the baftinado. The common people, how- ever, both here and in the neighbouring iflands pafs the time almoft perpetually in merriineot. They de- rive their origin from Bacchus, and confirm their relation to that deity by the plentiful ufe of good wine. PAROS. Paros is fituate weft of Naxia, in 25 degrees 30 minutes of eaft longitude, and 30 minutes of north latitude. This ifland is about forty miics in circum.- ference, and produces plenty of coin and wine. The number of families here is computed at fifteen hundred. Meat of all kinds is generally goodj and the mutton, which is finall, and fed in the houfes with fruits and bread, is particularly admired^ by travellers for its delicate flavour, Paros was anciently famous for its whitt marble. TORKV.] c£nc:ral traveller. I'R; marble, a;, ivcll ai Tor the excellent fculptors, PhiiJiai and Praxihlei, whom it produced. It was likewire iht country nf Archilochus, the iambic puet. I'he nobUft antiquity here difcovered is a piece of marble, on which is engraved the moft noted Greek cpoch.u, from the reign of Cecrops, the founder of the Athenian monarchy, to Diogenes the magifirate, including a period of one thoufjnd three hundred years. From thii curious monument, which is prefeivcd in the Univerfity of Oxford, we learn the foundation of the moft fuinoiis cities in Greece, ai well as the time when the fcveral men lived who were the ornaments of that country. The Turks repofc to much confidence in the Greeks of this idand, and fome others, that they eniruft one of their number with tliendminiflration of juftice, and do not fend hither a cadi to determine appeals, ffcre are feveral good ports, particularly that of St. Mary; bur the Turks ufuaily come to an anchor in the port of Drio, which is on the weftcrn part of the illand. A N '1' I P A R O S. Antiparoi, about a mile from Paros, is a flat rocky flxteen miles in compafs, covered in funic places with a ftralum of earth, which produces corn fufHcitnt for three or four fcore families, that inhabit a poor village •bout a mile from the Tea. Here i* little defetving notice, except a grotto about forty fathoms high, and fifty broad. The roof, which forms an arch, is cmbelliflied with variety of natural fretwork; and in fome places there is the refemblace of bunches of grapes, and feftoons, of a furprifing length. On the right and left are formed feveral little clofets or cabinets, Among other figures is a large pavillion, formed of parts cxaflly refembling the roots, branches, .ind heads of cauliflowers. Thofe various reprefeniations are of white marble, tranfparent and cryftalized, and many of them covered with a white cruft. When ftruck, they give a found refembling that which proceeds from copper. There are alfu feveral columns of marble, in the form of the trunks of trees, which un- doubtedly vegetate. For not a drop of water ever falls into the place; and if it did, we can hardly fuppofe that a few drops, falling from a height of twenty-five or thirty fathom, would form cylindrical pieces, terminating like round caps. C E R 1 G O. Cerigo, or Cithera, is fltuate in 23 degrees 40 /sinutes eaft longitude, and 36 degrees north latitude, near the (buth-caft part of the Morea. It is about fifty miles in circumference, a rocky mountainous country, with a barren foil, and but thinly inhabited. The chief town lies on the fouth fide of the ifland, but has not a good harbour. This ifland was facred to Venus, and anciently contained a temple dedicated to that goddefs, in which fhe was reprefented in armour, as in Cyprus. It is alfo faid to have been th« birth-place of Leda. M E L O 8. Meloi, or Milo, is (lluate in 35 decrees of raft h n* gitude, and in 36 drgreei 30 minutes of north lull- tude, about lixty miles eaft of the Morea, It is of a circular form, and about fevrniy milci in circumfirrenC'.'. The ifland Appears to be a hollow fpnngy 'otk, wh'.'it the fca enters by many fubterrancous psfliig'-t, anct mixing with the fulpliur that is here found in great quantity, occafinns iilmoft continual fires. The fur- face of the earth being hence warmed, it produces, in many places, the belt grapes, figs, and melons of any ifland in the Archipeifigo, The fields heie rercmble fo many gardens, lieiinj fcparated from each other by ftone walls, llutcher; meat, poultry, fifh, and game, are here in great abi.ndancc, and though the air b« unwholefomr, and the fituu^ion danQrrous, yet the inhabitants difcuvcr in their temperament the merry difpofition,' for which the Greeks have been always noted. They arc generally fca- faring men, and fetre as pilots to fliips which fail in the Archipelago. The greater part are of the Gieek church •, the bifhop of which has a good revenue, and many churches under his care, befides feveral moiTaften'es : amongll the latter is one on mount Elijah, where there is a glorious profpefl of feveral iflands in the Archipelago, A rirulet runs through the gardens, and the convent is furrounded with groves of olives, oranges, and cedar trees, which render it a moft ai^recable fnlitude. With refpe£l to the foil of this illand, Ariftotle ob- ferves, that on digging the earth, the cavity naturally filled up. Of this country was Diagoras, the atheilt^ hence furnamed H/Lliui. t SANTORINI. . • ■, ..,. ' Santorini, or St. Erini, anciently called Thera and Calilla, is fltuate in 25 degrees 35 minutes of eaft longitude, and 36 degrees 20 minutes of north latitude, being of the fhapc of a crefcent, and about thirty- five miles in cirCQmfcrence. The ifland or rock of The- rafia,' lying between the two points, forms a large and fecure harbour, at the bottom of which, as well as at each of the extremities, flands a caftle. It is faid by Pliny to have been raifed out of the fea by a vol- cano; and this account is confirmed by three adjacent iflands being fince produced alfo by the means of fub- terraneous fire. The inhabitants amount to about ten thoufand perfons, all Greeks; of whom one third is of the Latin communion, and fubjefl to a Latin bifhop, A cadi, or itinerant judge from the Turks, vifits them here annually, as in fome other iflands. Moft of the people live in caves hewn out of the pumice-ftone rocks, which are however covered with a ftratum of fruitful earth. T H E R M I A. ,, . ... Thermia, fo called from its hot-baths, lies north- eaft of Melos. It produces a good quantity of wine^ filk, cotton, barley, honeys wax, figs, and other fruit ; con« ►' i88 THE M containing ibout Hx ihouranJ inhibUaiiii, of ih« Greek communion, whofo bifhop rcfulci at Thcrmia, the chief tuwn of the ifland, which apiicirt from the inigniAccncc of iti ruini to have been once ■ nublc eiiy. Z E A. Zei, or Ceoii ii Aiuate about twenijr milet north- weft of Thermia, anii neatly the fame iliflance eaft uf the continent of Uroece. Il ia about fifty milci in circumference: the only town it Carthea, the refulirncc of • Greek biihop, who haa • good revenue. There arc alfo fcvcral chapels and monalleriei in the iflund. The foil producci corn and win«i but the chief com* modiiy it filk, which ii here nianufadlurcd, Thi> wai the country of Simonidei the lyric poet, and ihr inhabitanta were noted in ancient timet for their modcfly and fubrieiy. S T A N C H I O. Sunchio, the ancien) Coos, or Cos, ii fituate in 17 degrees 30 minuiei of eaft longitude, and 37 degrees of north latitude, being about eighty miles in circum- Cirencc, It is a pleaTant and fruitful ifland, producing great plenty of rich wines, the turpentine tree, and other ufeful plants, with numerous groves of cyprefi trees, which arc carefully preferved by the Turks. The chief town, bearing the fame name with the ifland, is fituated on the caftern coaft, and fortified with a «aftle> having a harbour fecured by a good ntole, and well guarded from pirates by gallics. The (hips from Fgypt to Conftantinople commonly touch here. I'hiii ifland boafted of Hippocrates and Apelles, and was likewife the country of Philetaf, the elegiac poet. The Vifttt Cca, made of (Ilk, were anciently famous for their finenefs and colour. In the fuburbs of Cos ftood a temple of ^fculapius, oikc a magnificent AruAute. S Y R A. Syr* li«i about twelve miles eaft of Thcrmia, and it twenty milet in circumference. It produces corn, wine, cotton, figs, and olives, and contains about fix thoufiuid inhabitanta, who are chiefly Catholics. A N D R O S. Androe, now called Andro, is fituated a little to the foutb-eaft of the iOand of Negropont, and is a hundred miles in circumference. The chief town is called tht ftrt »f tht lovutr ttftU, befides which there are on the ifland about forty villages. The inhabitants are computed at live thoufand, who are all of the Greek communion, except two or three families. Here is not only a Greek but a Latin biOiop, with feveral priefts and chapels, and a proportionable number of monaftcries. Moft of the people of figure live in little caftles to defend them from the rovers, who are numerous in tbofe feat. A cadi, and aga, or colonel of the janisariet, refide here; but the people enjoy the privilege of elf£iing their own magiftratet. The 2 I D E R N [LuKOFr. fiflanJ producer great pU-iiiy uf uint, oil, and b^rlrjr \ but the principal coniniudity is filk, by which article the natives make abuve ten thoufand pouiidi evrry year. The mountains are covered with aibute-trcci, from the fruit of which th«y dillil a fpirii, as well as from the mulberries. The inhabitants live chiiAy on goats Aefl) ( but they have alfo abundance of poultry, vcntfon, partridgri, and other game. It it computed, that fume years they p»y to the grand fcignior iu taxes, upwards of fifteen thoufand crowns, Acci ,ding to Pliny, this ifland had a fountain, which yearly, on the nonri, or ftfih of January, raa with a liquor of, a vinous talle. T K N O S. The iflanJ of Tenos, or Tine, is fituated a little fouth eaft of Andros, and is about fix miles in cir- cunifcrencc. It produces corn, wine, and fruit, with a good quantity of filk. I'he inhabitants, who ar« very numerous confidering the extent of the ifland, are chiefly of the Latin communion, owing to (heir having been many years under the government of tht Venetians. This ifland anciently contained a large temple of Neptune, and was noted for abounding in the fpecies of viper called tenia, which hence derived its name. It is (aid by Atbenaeus, that here waa • fountain, the water of which would not mix witb wine. NEGROPONT. Negropont, the ancient Eubva, it fituated a little to the north eaft of the coaft of Livadia, from which it is feparated by a narrow channel called the Euriput, or ftrait of Negropont. This is the largeft ifland in the Archipelago, being ninety miles long, and about twenty broad. It aboundt in corn, wine, fruits, fifti, flcfli, »', \ fowl. The chief town, called Negropont, the anci. . Jhalcis, lies on the weft fide of the ifland, thirty miles north of Athens or Setinct, where th« ftrait is fo narrow that it is joined to the continent by a bridge. The walls of the town are about two milet in circumference, but the fuburbt, inhabited by tht Chriftians, are of greater extent. On the notth-caA coaft ftands the city of Carifto, a populous towa like- wife, and the fee of a bifliop. The captain bafluw, or admiral of the Turkifh fleet, it viceroy of thii ifland and the adjacent parte of Greece, where he has a deputy} and a fleet of galliei generally lie in this port. The moft remarkable circumftance (cfpeAing this ifland is the tidet of the Euripus, which have baffled the inveftigation of all natural enquirers, from Ariftotle to the prefent time. Thofe tidet are tegular from the I aft three days of the old moon to the eighth of the new. The ninth day they become irregular, and con* tinue fo to the thirteenth inclufively. The fourteenth they again become regular, and obferve ftated period* till the one and twentieth exclufively, when they re> turn to a variable courts, in which they continue until the twenty- feventh day. When they are irreguW, they flow twelve, thirteen, or fourteen times, and ebb 1 1* TUSKV.] CENF.RAr, TRAVELLER. *H •bb •( ofifn in twenty fuur or twenty-five hourii tt whicli iiiDii ihc W4tir ii atiuui h,ili ;in hour riling, anil ihrco quaricri uf uii hour railing, lint when (he lidci ire rrgul.ir, ihty ohl'crvc the lame rule »:i the ; tidei ia the ocean. In the Euripui, however, the title never rifci aouve a foot or liiilc mere. S C I K O. a: N O I N A. Sciro, Tormeriy Skyroi, ii TituateJ about twenty miles north-calk ul' Ncgrupont, and ii ci);hty niiki in circumrc(cnce, It i> called by the I'urki Salcita l).iu, or the Id-iiid of Mallich, on account of the great quuniity which it produce] of that gum. 'I'he full near the cnalf ii very fertile, hut farther u|i, the country ii rocliy and barren, yieldin^i; only palluragc tor Koats, The number of inhabitant! i( computed at one hundred thoulaiid, four fifthii uf whom are Cjiecks, ind the relt Jcwt, Turks, and Catholics. Their wcalili cuiififla III milk, butler, wine, and filk, of wliicli they make annually to the amount uf a hundred thoulaiid Clowns. The city Sciu, capital of the ifl;ind, lies on the fea>coaft, cncumpaH'cd with good walls and indifferent fortiftcationa, I'he port is large, but not very fafe, the bottom being fo Toft, that the anchors have not a fufiicicnt hold. Five galhcs are conftantly (Vationed here, commanded by an equal number of begs, to each of whom the grand feignior allows twelve ihou- fand crowns yearly, for the charge of the vflels. The houfes of the city are built of Hone, and have pyraniidical roofs covered with tiles. The ftreets are narrow, paved with pebbles ; and the bazars abound with all necefTarics, fupplied at an eafy rate on account of t.,e neighbourhood of Natolia. The madich of this ifland, being the bed in the world, is entirely .ipprnpriated to the ufe of the grand feignior's fcr.iglio, where the ladies chew it, in order to whiten their teeth, and render their breath more fwect. 7'hc tree which produces this gum is (lender, and its branches, after bending to the ground, djrn upwards : the people make inciftons in different parts of the trunk, whence from the beginning of May till the end of June the gum diftils upon the ground, which is therefore kept very clean to receive it. The country produce* fomc cotton, the manufac- turing of which affords a fubfidcnce to the poor people i and here is alfo a confiderable quantity of excellent turpentine. Partridges are in great number, and fo tame, th.it they feed all day in the fields like poultry, and at night return to the farmer's houfe on the call of a whidle. This idand was the country of king Lycomedes, where Achilles, in thj habit of a giil, was educated and lay concealed, to prevent his going to the fiege of Troy. It was alfo famous for ihi: exile of Thefeus, king of Athens. It was anciently inhabited by the Dclopes, a race of robbers, expelli'd by Cimon the Athenian. Pallas, who was the p-otedtrefs of the ifland, had a temple on the fea-coaft.. of which fome columns yet remaining are fuppofed to have been a parr. No t6. i^ln^ina, or Engia, is fltutte in the gulph ofEngltf to which it giu-i name, in 24 degree* uf ealt longitude, and 37 degree) 45 minutes of north latitude, twenty* one miles ealt uf Corinth. It ii thirty miles in cir« cumfcrence, and in the chief town, which bears tha fame name, the number of huufes is romputed at fix hundred. On the fummit of the mountain Panhelleniui ar< the remains ot a magnirueni temple, dedicated to Jupiter, and viliied Iriiin all parts of Greece. It wat of the Doric order. Tweniy-iine of the exterior co- lumn arc yet Handing, wiih two in the front of the pronaos and of the proticum, and llkcwifo five of thofe which formed the ranges within the cell, The entablature, except the architrave, is fallen. The llune IS of a light lirownifh colour, much, eaten in many places, and bearing the marks of great antiquity^ In fcvcral the jun£\ion of the parts is fo exa£>, that they fcem to confift of one piece. Digging by a column of the portico of the naos, a fragment of fine fculpturo was lately difcovcrcd. It was the hind part of a grey- hound of white marble, and probably one of the orna* ments which had been fixed on the freeze, which has ia it a groove, as for their infertion. The temple was enclufed by a peribolus or wall, of which fome traces are yet extant. The fltuation of this ruin on a lonely mountain, at a dillance from the fea, h.is prcferved ic from total demolition amid all the changes and acci- dents of numerous centuries ; and it has a claim to be confldeted at the moft ancient monument of the heroic ages. This ifland was the kingdom of i^acui, and the in- habitants were called Myrmidoncs, or a nation of ants, from their great application to agriculture. It formerly vied with A. hens for naval power, and it the fca- light of Salamis difputed the palm of vi£)ory with that republic. This rivalfhip induced the Athenians to an aA, that was reproachful to the humanity of a people fo much civilized. They pafled a decree to cut off the thumbs of all fuch of the /Egineta at were fit for Tea fervice, P O R U S. Porus, another ifland in the gulph of Engia, it eighteen miles in circumference, remarkable only for the banifhment 0'' Demofthenes, who here poifoned himfelf to avoid falling into the hands of Antipater, C O L U R I. Coluri, the ancient Salamis, is fituated in the fame bay, feven miles fouth of Athens, and feparited from the continent by a ftreight about a mile in breadth. This little ifland, not above ten miles long, and five or fix broad, was the kingdom of Ajax, the fon of Telemon, fo famous in the hiftory of the Trojan war. It was alfo the country of Solon, the celebrated law-giver of Athens. A a a S T A- f ;. Ml I^O H MODERN [EuKOPi: . I Tcncdos is about fifty miles in circumference} the S T A L I M E N E. ' coatl is i-oclcy, but lliu miilland country a good toil, , and dtftfrvcdly famous for wine of an excellent flavour, Stalimene, the ancient I.uiitein;j' for thofe of every other religion, is not the tfi'cd of prejudice alone, for they confidcr it as moft meritorious in the eyes of Cod and their prophet. A^ainil fo general and violent an antipathy, which frequently breaks forth in the mod uiijullifiable exccflis, nothing elfe could fccure for a moment the life and pmpcity of the- Chri(li.-ins and Jews who refide among t'icni, than the univcrl'al advantage of thole people to the country and govcrnmcnr, which they chiefly contribute tu fup- port by their induflry, in .-igricuhur.:, nianufadfuteii, and commerce. CHAP. IX. Of produce— ~ma>:ufiii!urei-~tiaile-—f 31 uS'—rtvenuet^^ government— —J'litiglio, ' I "■ HIS ;;reat empire extending over fo many •*• climates, abounds in variety of produce, which confids of rice, wheat, barley, raw filk, cotton, goats hair, coffee, rhubarb, turpentine, opium, fenna, eme- ralds, pomegranates, dates, almonds, piflachio nuts, wine, oil, figs, raifins, mother of pearl, fa! ammoniac, alum, Roman vitriol, bees-wax, fafFron, and gums of various kinds. The principal manufadures are carpets, filk, and leather. The grand feignior's dominions are the befl fituated for trade of any country in the world. The Red Sea and the Gulph of Perfia render the voyage very fliort to India and China ; and by the Mediterranean, the Egean, and the Black Sea, the Turks might extend their commerce to almoft every nation of f^uropc and Africa, They have timbrr and naval (lores in their own territories fufficient to equip the largcft fleets ; but for want of application all thofe advantages are loft. They feldom or never undertake any difta.it voyage, and the greater part of their traffic is therefore carried on in foreign bottoms ; their own veflels doing little more than tranfporting the produce of one pro- vince to another. It is doubtlefs much more favourable to the balancj of power in Europe, th,it thufc fine countries (lioulj remain in the poircJion of the indoI:nt Turks, than that Jiey (hould be occupied by any of the Chriftian princes. The trading nations of the Weft were (a fenfible of this remark, that when it feemed to be in the power of the Imperialifts to drive the Turks out of Europe, as was the cafe under the ctindun of prince Eugene, the Englllli and Dutch inlirpofid, and by their mediation put a ftop to the Imperial arms. The forces of the Turks arc of two kinds, namely, a ftnnding army and militia. The former of thofe confifts of the fpahis and janizaries, the one horfe and the other foot j and the latter of the foldiers that are levied and paid by the gentlemen of the country, who hold their cilates fruni the prince upon the tenure of Tusk v.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. «9: of military Tcrvice. This body of proprietors is didin- guifticd by the name of Zaims or Timarifts, accord- ing to the number of men they are obliged to bring to the field. In time of peace, the ufual number df the fpahii, or horfr, is twelve thoufand; and they are divided Into two bodies, viz. the Sibchtari and the Spahao- glari, the former of whom have yellow Aandards, and the latter red. Their arms were once bows, ilrrows, and darts, but they now ufe carabines and piftols. The fpahis of Afla are ufually thi bed mounted, but in- ferior in difcipline to thofe of Europe. Their pay is from twelve to a hundred afpers a day, which is about four (hillings and two pence of our money. When the grand f^ignior taices the field in perfon, he advances to the fpahis five thoufand afpers a man, cu furnifh them accoutrements. They manage their arml and horfel very dextcrouflyj but charge in no manner of order, though with a great deal of fury; fo that if their on- fet be firmly oppofed by the enemy, they foon retreat, and can never be i.. iuced to rally. The janizaries, who are all foot} compdfe a more formidable body. Originally they did not exceed feVen thoufand, but at prefent the peace-ellablifliment ttiay amount to twenty-five thoufand. More than double this number, however, purchafe the nanie and privi- leges of janizaries, who feldom receive pay, tir ferve in the army. When a young janizary is enrolled in the fervice, he receives from one afper a day to feven, befides his diet. The whole body of efficient janizaries Is ufually ftationed at Conftantinople, where thofe who are unmarried live in a particular quarter of the town. They eat in common^ and have their cloathing provided by the government; but living idly in time of peace, they often grow mutinous, and alarm admi- iiiftration, which they fometimes even overturn. Their (iiUfFetlion is ufually difcovered when they come to the divan, whither they are fummoned twice a v^eelc by their aga, or general, and have an entertain- ment provided for them from the grand feignior's kitchen. If they are under the apprehenfion of being either opprefled or difcountenanced by any miniUcr of the court, they receive the gratuity with the utmoft fcorn, which they carry to fuch a length as to thiow the difhes upon the floor. When the miniflry are ap- prifed of thofe marks of difcontcnt, they endeavour to conciliate the favour of the troops, by largefles and fair promifes, to prevent the difafFe£lion from becoming general ; thus maintaining prefent quiet by a perni- cious expedient, the example of which muil ever render the public tranquillity more precarious. Among the janizaries marriage is a bar to preferment, on which account the greater part of them live fingle. They arc not remarkable for difcipline more than the fpahis i and like thofe, their cuftom is to attack with impctuofity in battle, rather than maintain an obflinate engagement for any confiderable time. Both fpahis nnd janizaries are trained up in the feminaries of the fcraglio. The former are frequently of Turkifh pa- rents, but the latter generally not. Every fifth Chriflian captive, under fifteen years of age, is referved for the grand feignior's fervice j and out of fuch, after being No. i6. inftru<3ed in the Turklfh language and relig'on, the body of janizaries is recruited. The reft of the llaves are brought up to fuch employ nents as are found mott requifite for the feveral royal jalaics. The mofl in- genious are educated fur ofKccs in the Rate; others are made fmiths, carpenters, &c. and fome are quartered on the eftates of the nominal janizaries in Katolia, whence likewife the corps at Conftantinople is fre- quently recruited. Though the fpahis and janizaries are the flower of the Turkifh army, the militia furnifhrd occaConally by the Zaims and Tiinariots are much more numerous. The quota of every Zaiiti in the empire is from four to nineteen men for the land fervice; and of each Ti- mariut ^nly four. They are alfo obliged to find men, in the fame proportion, for the fea- fervice. Both Zaim* and Timariots are liable to ferve in perfon by land, but only th*! latter on board the fleet. The number of infantry furniflied by the fcvtral pro- vinces in Europe and Afla, amounts to four hundred thoufand; and of the cavalry to a hundred thoufand and upwards. Befldes thofe, a great number of vo- lunteers ferve at their own expence, in expeflation of fucceeding the Zaims and Timaricits who may fall in battle, many of whofe lands are at the difpofal of the beglerbeg or viceroy of the province. At prefent, however, fuch is the corruption among all ranks of ofEcers in this Turkifh empire, little or no regard is paid to public fervices in the diftribution of prefer- ment. The forces of the grand feignior in Egypt amount to eighty thoufand men, notwithflanding which bis authority is often difputed by the Egyptian princes, the de.'cendants of the Mamalukes, who held the government of this kingdom during feveral hundred years. Though great part of the Turkifh empire be a mari- time country, and it abounds in commodious bar* hours, yet its naval force bears no proportion to what might be expefled in fo extenf.ve dominions ; but fhould the Ottoman government increafe the number and fize of their fhips of war, a deficiency of feamen mufl flill be experienced, fo long as they remain in- attentive to the improvement of navigation and com- merce. The flated revenues of the Porte arife from the de- mefne lands, or lands of the crown ; from the duties of import and expo' ; the tribute paid by the cham of Crim Tartary, Moldavia, Walachia, and the Grecian iflands ; with the poll-tax on the Chriftians, and thofe who are not of the cflablifhed religion. But the greater part confllts of the prefents and annual payments which are made by the governors and other great officers, and the conlil'cation of their eftates when they die or are difplaced. For whatever riches they have amafTcd during their employment fall at lafl to the grand feigni' r, who only allows their wives and families .a temporary fubfiftence. Befldes the cuflomary revenue, the treafures of thi mofques or churches, which are very great, may be made ufe of, if there happen to be war with the Chriftians, or any other prefTiog neceflity. As a refcrve B b b in I »J>4 H M O E N' [EUKOPE. in cxtraurdinary cafes, the emperor has aTf6 a private treafure lodged in vaults, where .-vine but the officers of the ireafury and the prime vizier ever enter. With all thofe refources, and a civil eftablifiiment rather profitable than expenCve to the emperor, ^^^ army of five hundred thoufand men, entirely fupported in time of war by the provinces which furnifli them, and with the incumbrance only of the houfhold of the feraglio, the body of efficient fpahis and janizaries, -"d an in- confiderable marine, the revenues of this potentate (ieem to be equal to the greateil exertion* of imperial magnificence and enterprize. The government of Turky is vefted in the fultan, a prince whofe power has been generally confidered as abfolute, but which we find to be pofitively limited by religion and law. This monarch, who ii lilcewife ftiled the grand feignior, or the Porte, aflumes feveral abfurd and hyperbolical titles, according to the cuftom of the Eafl-, viz. T^t Jhadtw »f GeJ, a ged in larth, brttbtr of tbtfun and moon, difptfer of all larthly crowns. As long as he is fuccefsful his fubje£)s adore him ; but if be prove unfortunate in war, he not only lofes his divinity, but is treated with contempt, and fre- quently depofed. He is never crowned, but is carried trom the palace on his acceffion, and inaugurated at a place called Job, near the walls of Conftantinople, where flaads the tomb of one of their prophets, which ■ccording to their tradition is that of Job. Over his Chriflian fubjcAs, who are almoft as nu- merous as the Turks, the grand feignior exercifes the moft tyrannical authority, as alfo over the great officers of ftate, who depend upoo him for all that they enjoy ; but with refpciSl to his other Aibjeds, he is not more defpotic than many Chriftian fovereigns, perhaps not fo much as font of them. The fucceflloji to pri> vatc property is unalterably fixed and regulated by the Koran, and the modes of conveying it eftablifhed with as much precifion as in any part of Europe ; at the fanitf time that the Turks have books which they make ufe of, in otLc. cafes, as authorities for their judicial decifions. The obedience of thofe people to the will of their fovereign feems to proceed not more trom any dread of his power, than from venera- tion for bis perfcn and government, which is induftri* oufly imprefled on their minds in their earlieft years. They are taught that it is their duty to leave the world with fubmiffion and refignation, when their prince requires it; and that they may aflure themfelves of feats in paradife, if they make no oppoAtion to the fentence pafled upon them. The confequence of thofe principles is, that when an executioner is fent to bring to the grand feignior the head of any obnoxious per- fcn, he hardly ever finds in the devoted \\&[m the fmalleft eflibrt to refift or evade his fate. The officers of ilate are, i. the grand vizier, to wncn the emperor for the moft part commits the adminiflration of government both civil and military. The great power and emoluments which accompany this high office render it the objei£t of envy to all thofe courtiers who are a£luated either by ambition or avarice ; but the enjoyment of ic is extremely preca- rious, aou oUcn n.-ninutes in the difgracc, if not in the decapitation of the perfon who holds it. In the time of peace or war, his flatioii is equally dungcrous. During the former, he is cxpofrd to danger from the refentMent of the janizaries, ever mutinoub uiM dil'> fa'tMied with a pacif.c adminillr.-\tion, under which they confider their own importance as injurioufly di. minilhed j and in the latter he is more fccrctly, but not \eh dangeroufly atlTacked from the quarter of the feraglio, where tb'e fultana-mothcr, the favourite ful- tanefs, and the chief eunuch, are alnioft conflantly di(lra£ting the ear of the grand feig'nio/ with their jar- ing intrigues; or if r^ey happen to unite in their views, their caprice, more adiVe through idlenefs, is generally directed againft the miniiler, whom, by his pofleffing the confidence df his fovereign, they efteem as their rival in power. The prime vizier lives ill great itate, is allowed his guards, give» audi- ence to foreign miniliers, and concludes all treaties with chem; though, for form's fake, they have an audience with the fultan when they arrive, and another at their departure. The falary of the office is about five thouland pounds, and the perquifites amount to an immenfe fum ; but whatever he has amafied fallr in the end to the grand feignior. T!i^re are fix viziers of the bench, who are of the prime vizier's council, as are likewife the bafhaws of three tails, fo called from having three horfe- tails ot ftandards carried before them, while the other bafliawt^ have but one. The prime vizier, however, is not obliged to follow the advice of his council, but, after hearing their opinions, is at liberty to determine as he thinks proper. The mufti and civil judges are- fomctimes confulted in ftate affairs. The councils of (late and the courts of juftice are each of then called divans. The former is held every day except Friday, at the vizier's palace ; and four times a weeic he holds a divan in the feraglio, to which he goes in great ftate, attended by the baihaws and great officers in town, and his Albanian guards on horfeback. Upon his entering the divan, all that wait in ex» pedation of him proftrate themfelves on the ground. The other officers are, i, the kiilar aga, or chief of the black eunuchs, and keeper of the ladies of the feraglio. 2. The capi agafi, or chief of the white eunuchs, who introduces ambafladors and others to the grand feignior. He has the privilege of wearing a white turbant, and riding on horfeback in the feraglio, and attends the emperor to the door of the lultana's apartments, but no farther, the ladies being left to the care of the black eunuchs, 3. The noza de bachi, or governor of the forty pages of the bed- chamber. 4, The feras agafi, who takes care of the repairs and furniture of the royal apartment. 5, The hofpodar bachi, who has the charge of the fultan's private treafure ot purfe, 6. The krlargi bachi, who fupcriniends the confefiionaries, kitchens, cellars, &c. 7. The dogandi bachi, or grand falconer. 8. The kokadar, who puts on the em|jeror's veft. 9. The kikabdar, who holds his ftirrup. 10, The feli£lar, or fword-bearer. 11. The hummangi bachi, or keeper TORKY.] feENERAL TRAVELLER. •95 of the baths. 12. The kiamica bachi, who has the care of the linen. 13. The geritbeg, who- teaches the exercife of the bow and Jancc. The oiHcers without the feraglio arrr, i. The cai- macan, or governor of Conftantinople, who is the prime vizier's reprefentative in his abfence, 2. The aga, or general of the janizaries, whofe power is ex- ceeding great. 3, The chiaux bachi, ur chief uf the chiauxes, who are meflengers of the court, and em- ployed fometimes to talce ofF the head of a balhaw in any of the provinces. In every large province or beglerfliip are three great officers, viz. the chief pried, who is judge; the reif- c/Fendi, in whom the offices fpond." The honours of the caftan, fweet-meats, cofFee, flierbet, and perfumes, are prefented to him; but when he departs they clap their hands, and hifs him but of the room; while two officers who attend him, one on each fide, attempt at half-way, to make him turn and falute the vizier, who never ftirs olT his fofa. He who forgets his character may be furprifeii into this compliment; but he who does not, keeps on hii pace, and drives his leaders before him. On an occafion that oftered of adjufling the cere- monial with an ambaflitdor who thought himfelf of« fended, this ufage was rtdrefled, and it is to be hoped continues no longer. The time appointed for the ambaflador to be ov«r the water from Pera, is the morning, at the break of day. On his landing, he is received by the chiaux bafchi, or marfhal of the court, in a houfe deftined for the purpofe, tht ftairs of which are no better than a ladder, and the room exceedingly mean. It is feldom that the chiaux bafchi is there at the ambalTa- dor't arrival ; but the common excufe is, that he is detained in the mofque at his prayers. When the iirft civilities ate over, an inltnuation is made to the ambaflador, that he muft expe£t the chiaux bafchi will ride at his right hand. This part of the ceremony, long conttited, but never given up by the Turks, except when they have been forced to relinquifh it, leaves to the ambalTador no other refource than that of entering a proteft; infifting, however, that a gentleman ot his retinue (hall ride at his left. This claim, if urged with refolution, generally fuc* ceeds ; though it has been produfiive of much alter- cation and diforder in the march, and fometimes almoft of a fufpenflon of the audience. After waiting fome time in a miferable chamber at the water -fide, ". ;neflage arrives from the vizier to let them know that he is ready to proceed to the feraglio. The cavalcade then begins, and marches in ftate to the vizier's door, where, whether it rains, hails, or fnows, the ambaflador muft remain on horfeback in the open ftreet to fee his pomp, and to falute hii high* nefs 196 THE M D R N> [UuuoHi;, nefs and his whole court as they pafs ly. When I the interpreter txplaini, and the anihufLdur 1.^ li.l- they ate near the gate of the fcraglio, the ambafiadcr's mined. Another ceremony, howivtr, a-vaitt t;i.n in train advances llowty, and on his arrival he luids the \ render the d.iy yet more tedious. After mouii'ti'):^ vizier featcd in the di"un-chamber. In the middle of this apartment, an old fi]uaic (tool il placed for the ambalfador ; and be is there fixed, if the ftool can fupport him, at lead for two hours, hearing the decifion of ciufcs he does not undcrlfand ; though if it he pay-day for the Janizaries and fpahis, «nd fuch an opportunity is generally taken, he is en- tertained with feeing about two thoufand four hund'od yellow bags of money told out and diilributed, which may employ them upwards of two hours mnrc, A new fcene then fucceeds, and the dinner is fcrved. The ambaflador continues to fit on his flool, ar.d the visier on his e.evated fopha; a round table is placed between them, at each fide of which is laid a hand- kerchief folded up to wipe the mouth and hands. Fifty diflies, fuccecding each other every half minute, come in lilce a torrent; a principal fervant fiands near the ambaflador with his arms bare, ivhofe office is to tear a fowl in pieces, and to lay the choiceft morfcis of it before them, all which he per.'brms with his fingers. He commends without ceafing the excellent dinner, whilft the vizier prefles his gueft tJ eat, and perhaps enters into a familiar coaverfation with him. To conclude the repafl, one draught of iherbet is ferved. The grand feignior all the while peeps through a dark window to fee the whole entertainment, am' as foon as it is over retires to his audience room. The chiaux bafchi enters with his talkifh, or order in writing, to the vtzier, to acquaint him that the monarch is on his throne. He receives it with the utmoft fubmilTion, firft touching his forehead with it, then kifling it, and having read it, puts it into his bread, and departs. After his departure, the ambaflador is told (hat he muft crofs the court-yard to go to the audience: he is preceded by the chiaux bai'chi with all his officers and attendants richly clad. He does not, however, im- mediately enter the audience-room, but is llopt in the court-yard, where, under .". tree, by way of bench, is a Angle old board, on which at other times, the menial fervants in the feraglio lie to fun tbemfeives. On this, whether wet or dry, clean or dirty, he is defired to fit till he be vefled with the caftan. When the ceremony of verting is over, two capigis bafchis feize him by the fhoulders, and condu£l him to the audience. He finds the fultan in a corner of th« apartment, placed on his fofa, higher by much than common, and covered with a canopy, his legs rather hjnging. At his fide lies a rich fword, and fomc reg.'lia. He eyes the ambalTador afkew, and hears his harangue ; a copy of which has been given before to th? vizier, tranflated by the drugoman, or interpreter of the Porte i who, after the ambaflador has done, repeats it extempore, in the Turkifh language, to the •rand feignior. When this is finifbed, the latter his horfe, he i» i}opp<-J in the f^'cond quadranij!.; u! the fti.)gliu, and (iLiIi;jed (u wait under a tree, until the vizier paflis before him on his return home ; at;--f which liK is petiuiitcd tu lie^iit, CHAP X. 0/ tilt rtli^isn of the Turku T^HL religion of the Turks is Mahometanifir, •*• but different from that which prevails in I'erfui, iVIahumet leaving no fons, both thofe nations derivn their fplritual as well us tempor.il authority from Hall, the hufband of his daughter K.itima, or from Abubcker, whofe daughter Mahomet married. I'hc I'erfians pre- ferring the do «' ri r T TV t» Int.! Irivn / (/^////7r/ / , /r//f f>/ \'J(lr//'rry he neither falutes, converfes, or takes notice of any perfun. No accident can divert him from his prayers} nor may he fpit, cough, or rub himfelf; or if he has been unavoidably defiled by any of thofe, he muft immediately wafh, and return to his devotion. Until they begin to pray, they figh and gronn inceflantly. The prieft opens with the praifes of God, all the people following him. and imitating his a£lions as well as repeating his words; but both prayers and praifes are very ihcrc. During the whole Ramazan, or their Lent, which continues a month every y^ar, no perfon will eat, drink, or fmoak before fun-fet ; from which time till the morning, all the towns, ind particularly the mofques, are illuminated. After this feafon they per- form the pilgrimage to Mecca, which appears to be the main bafis of the Mahometan religion. On thii journey the caravan of Damafcus, compofed of the pilgrims from Europe and Afia Minor, the Arabian, and the principal one from Cairo, then fet out. They all have their ftated time of departure, and their regular ftagcs. That from Cairo begins the journey thirty No. 17. the Mount of Forgivenefs, which is about two miles in circumference. Here, according to their tradition, Adam and Eve met, after they had been feparated forty years. The eve of the day of facrifice, the three caravans, each ranged in a triangular form, environ this mountain, and fpend the whole night in tumul- tuous rejoicings. In thr* morning a profound filencc fucceeds, they flay their (htrp, and offer up their facrifice on the mountain, with all the marks of the greateft devotion. On a fudden a fcheik, or fantone, ruflies from amidft them, mounted on his camel, and afcending five fteps, rendered practicable for that purpofe, he addrefles the people in a fet harangue; on the con* clufion of which the auditors falute the mountain, and depart. The religion of the Mahometans is a complication of the bafeft and moft infamous forgeries, with a train of fupcrlliiions degrading to the human mind, and which bein^^; fubftituted in the place of elTential duties, are direfily fubverfive of every virtue. \m a c CHAP, 196 THE MODERN. fV rvrivi preceded oy me cniaax oitcnt witn. an itis otncers and attendants richly clad. He docs not, however, im- mediately enter the audier )om, but is flopt in the court-yard, where, ; .>j(r a tree, by way of bench, is a finglc old bo^iJ, on which at other times, the menial fervants in the feraglio lie to fun themfelves. On this, whether wet or dry, clean or dirty, he is deGred to fit till he be veiled with the caftan. When the ceremony of veiling is over, two capigis bafchis feize hini by the ihoulders, and conduct him to the audience. He finds the fultan in a corner of the apartment, placed on his fofa, higher by much than common, and covered with a canopy, his legs rather hanging. At his fide lies a rich fword, and fonio regalia. He eyes the ambaiTador aflcew, and hears his harangue; a copy of which has been given before to the vizier, tranllated by th« drugoman, or interpreter of the Porte i who, after the ambaiTador has done, repeats it extempore, in the Turlciih language, to the wrand feignior. When this is finlihcd, the latter fpeaks a few words to the vizier, who advances towards the middle of the room, and anfwers the ambaiTador in their ufual common-place ilylc. This and pertorm penances as the Koman catnoiics, ana have ilrings of beads by which they number the prayers they repeat. On Tuefday every week, the fuperior of the convent preaches or expounds part of the Alroran to them, at tho conclufion of which tlu: monks, having made a profound reverence to their fuperior, fall into a dance, turning round with greac agility to the rngfic of a ilute, which has however a very doleful found. Such as it is, thij iiidrumeiit is ufed by few, the Alcoran prohibiting all but vocil mufic in their devotions. For the fame rcafoii it is, that they ring no bells to call the people to pray:' , but funimon them from the minorets or ileeplcs of the mofqucs. Befides the ccciofiiiftic r^dufcs, there are many hermits, who go naked, and fuffer their hair to grow down to their waiils. I'hofe perfons are in a manner adored by devout people, and in fomc parts of the empire take upon them to fkreen criminals froui ' ilicc. The high prieft of the empire is the mtifti, who has the power of appointing all civil magillratcs, their civil and ecclefiailical laws being in eiFe£l the fame. The Alcoran, and the comments upon it, arc the rtilc by which 1. ', ■ I TURKY.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. m which they judge of all mattrt, unleri in fotnc cxtr«> ordlniry cafes, where the temporll power ihinki fit to inierpofe iti authority. The grand fcignior fcarccly ever alters or reverfei the fentencc of the mufti i and without his fefta, or fiat, no important refulutions are taken, either in regard to peace or war ^ but if he rtfufes to ratify or confirm any favourite objeA of (be miniOry, be is depof^'d, and a more obfequious perfon appointed in his room. Nex' to the mufti there are three other judges, of the ecclefiaflical order, who have the title of cadilif- ^uier, and are appointed refpcAively to the provinces of Romania, Natolia, and Egypt t nor can any perfon be advanced to the rank of mufti, who has not paffed through one or other of thofe offices. There is befides in tvtty province » mollah cadi, or chief judge, to whom the people may appeal from any inferior tribunal. But notwiihftanding the ecciefiaftics are the only legal judges, the beglerbegs and governors of towns and provinces take upon them to infliA pu- nishment, and even death, without allowing the ac cufed perfon any trial. The imaums or priefts, who officiate in their mofques, ire not appointed by the mufti or any ecclefiaftic, nor are they fubjeA to their controul. An^ perfon who can read the Alcoran, and has the reputation of an honed man, may aflume this office, on the recom- mendation of the people of the place to the governor of the town or province, when a moique is vacant) and as the confent of the governor is neceflary towards admitting one to officiate as a prieft, fo he likewife may difmifs him at pleafurej or the prieft may leave his cure, and again become a layman, if he thinks fit. The imaum reads fome part of the Alcoran every Friday, which is their fabbath ; but feldom preaches, this being the bufinefs of the flieiks, who have ufually their education in the convents. When a Mahometan enters a mofque, he puts off his Ihoes inftead of his cap ; and while he is there, he neither falutes, converfes, or takes notice of any perfon. No accident can divert him from his prayers { nor may he fpit, cough, or rub himfelf} or if he has been unavoidably defiled by any of thofe, he muft immediately walh, and return to his devotion. Until they begin to pray, they figh and groan inceflitntly. The prieft opens with the praifes of God, all the people following him, and imitating his aAions as well as repeating his words} but both prayers and praifes are very fliort. During the whole Ramazan, or their Lent, which continues a month every year, no pen'o will eat, drink, or fmoak before fun-fet ; from which time fl" the morning, all the towns, .ind particulai.'y the mofques, are illuminated. After this fealbn they per- form the pilgrimage to Mecca, which appears to be the main bafis of the Mahometan religion, On this journey the caravan of Damafcus, compofed of the pilgrims from Europe and Afiii Minor, the Arabian, and the principal one from Cairo, then fet out. They all have their ftated time of departure, and their regular ftages. That from Cairo begins the journey thirty No. 17. days after Ranuzan, and arrives in forty days, juft before the corban, or great beiram of facrifice. Fivt or fix days previous to that feftival, tlie three caravans, confifting of about two hundred thuufand men, and three hundred thoufand bcalts of burden, unite and encamp at fome miles from Mecca, 'l°he pilgrimt - form thcmfelves into fmall detachments, and enter thi town to perform the ceremonies preparatory to that great one of facrifice. They pafs through • ftreet of continual afcent, until they arrive at a gate on an eminence, called the Gate of Health. From this ftation they behold the great mofque, which cnclofet the houfe of Abraham, and this they falutc with tha moft profound ilevotion, repeating twice, Salim Alii Irufoul Ma, that is, " peace be with the ambaflador of God." Thence, at fome diftance, they afcend five ftcps, to a large platform faced with ftonc, where they oiFer up their prayers. They next defcend on the other fide of it, and advance towards two fimilar a I, feparated a little from each other, through ..cb they pafs with great filence and devotion. This ceicmony muft be performed fevcn times. They afterwards proceed to the great mofque that enclofes the houfe of Abraham, and entering it, walk feven times round the little building which it contains; faying, " This is the houfe of God, and of his fervant Abraham.*' Then killing with great reverence a black ftone, faid to have defcended white from heaven, they proceed to the well called Zun-Zun, and plunge into it with all their cloaths, continually repeating, Toba Alia, Toba Alia, " Forgivenefs God, forgivenefs God," Then drinking a draught of that fetid turbid water, they depart. The duty of bathing and drinking they are obliged to pafs through once { bur .aofe who will gain para^ dife before the others, muft perform it once a day, during the ftay of the caravan. About fifteen miles from the town of Mecca, is a hill, or fmall mountain, called Ghiabal Arafata, or the Mount of Forgivenefs, which is about two miles in circumference. Here, according to their tradition, Adam and Eve met, after they had been feparated forty years. The eve of the day of facrifice, the three caravans, each ranged in a triangular form, environ this mountain, and fpend the whole night in tumul- tuous rejoicings. In the morning a profound filence fucceeds, they flay their iheep, and offer up their facrifice on the mountain, with all the marks of the greateft devotion. On a fudden a fcheik, or fantonr, ruflies from amidft them, mounted on his camel, and afcending five fteps, rendered practicable for that purpofe, he addrefTes the people in a fet harangue; on the con* clufion of which the auditors falute the mountain, and depart. The religion of the Mahometans is a complication of the bafeft and moft infamous forgeiies, with a train of fuperftitions degrading to the human mind, and which being fubftituted in the place of eflfential duties, are direflly fubverfive of every virtue. C a c CHAP. i m r I 198 THE t it A K >tu TH E Turki wcr< oHginally » trib« of ScyrtiUn (hepherdi, who led an ilinrrant life, wandering from place to place with their floclci and herds, but refiding chiefly north' of the Palus Maioiii and the Euxine Sea, In the eighth century they travelled fouthward, aiid fettled in Georgia, between the Euxine and the Cafpikn Sea, where, after remaining about two hundred yean, they removed farther fouih into Armenia, to which they gave tht name of Turcomania, The fultan of Perfia, endeavouring at this time to render himfelf independent of the Saracen caliph of Bagdac, folicited the aid of the Turki, who feno him a rein- forcement of troopf under the command of Tnngro> lipia, by the afllftance of which he obtained a complete vlAory over the Saracent. The Turks afterwards made themfelvei matters of B'agdat, and fubdued Pttrria, as well as the northern provinces of Arabia. At this time they were Pagans } but Tangrolipia, their leader, in order to gain the al{e£lion of his new fubjefls, profefled himfelf vk Mahometan, in which his example was copied by the greater part of his followers. The Turks proc:eded to invade the territories of the Grecian emperor in Afia Minor, and divefted him of feveral cities } while the Sarncens likewife profecuted their conquefts in Syria^ Paleftine, and Egypt. The emperor of Conftantinople finding his frontiers expofed to the perpetual ravages of the confederates, implored the tiEftance of the powers in the weft of Europe to put a ftop to their progrefs ; the ChrifKans of Palef- tine, then grievouffy opprefled by the Mahometans, requefting likewife their prote£lion in the ftrongeft terms. The application of the latter was fo well received by the pope and clergy of Rome, that they exerted all their influence in the feveral nations of Chriflendom, towards exciting them to refcue the Holy Land from the pofleffion of the infidels. This gave rife to the memorable war of the Crufades, which difplayed the romantic piety, but difgraced the wifdom of thofe times. The chief of thofe who engaged in this expedition were Hugh, count of Vermandois, brother to the king of France; Robert, duke of Normandy, fon of William the conqueror; Raymund, count of Tou- loufe; Robert, count of Flanders; Stephen, count of Blois and Chartrcs; Godfrey of Bouillon, duke of Lorrain, with Euftachius and Baldwin his brothers, and an infinite number of inferior nobles and gentle- men, who drew after them almoft whole prorinces. The diforder accompanying this tumultuous concourfe of different nations was equal to the fanaticifm which infpired them. Befides thofe who went as foldiers, old men, women, children, and ecclefiaftics, jiHl em- barked in the enterprize. This immenfe multitude began its march in the year 1096; but having been totally improvident for their fubfiflence on the journey, as if they had expeAed the miraculous interpofition of heavrn in their favour, one half of them perifhed MODERN [EUROJ'V. through famine, fatigue, or ficknrfi, before they hkiJ reached the eaflcrn buuiidarits ol Chriflendom. When they arrived at Conllaniinuple, however, they yrt appeared fo numerous, that they put the Grecian emperor into the uimofl cnnficrnition, who began to enfcrtairt greater jeijuufy oi this prodigious emigraiion than he did of the infidels. Inflead of joining ihens with hia fbrees, therefore, he took every opportunity, underhand, to involve them in difficulty and diftrefsi .though prudence t«4uir«d that he fhould grant his affiftance in tranfporting them over the Hellefponi.- When they landed 011 the Afiatic fhore, they were found to be ftill near a hundred thoufand borft, ani almoft twice that number of foot. The firfl objeJi of their operations wat to lay fiege to Nice in Uyihinia, almolt oppofite Conflaniinople, and the ufual refidence of fultan Solyman. The fultan, who was then abfent, marched t«' the relief of tho town; but his troops' being defeated, the place fur- rendered by capitulation, and wa» put into the pofTcf- flon of the Grecian cmpenor.^ in eonfequenca of a previous agreement. From Nice they proceeded^ to Antioch, the capital of Syria, whea Solyman oppofing their march with ai» army of two hundred thoufand men,, the Chriftian* gained a complete viAory, and at the fame tiaie becam* mafters of hit camp, which was reputed exceeding rich. Having fubdued great part of the territories which th* infidels had taken from the Grecian emperor in Afi» Minor, and poflefli;d themfelvcs of Antioch, they dif* patched a meflenger to that monarch, requefting that he would join- them with his fosces, according to tb* articles of a treaty fubfifting between thtm. With thia demand, however, the emperor lefufed to comply, upon the pretext that they had not delivered Antioct» into his hands; in coiifequence of which denial, they refolved for the future to ai£l independently of him. Leaving Antioch they continued their march to Jeru- falem, which they immediately inveftcd ; but their number was now fo diminifhed, that it is faid they did not amount to more than fifty thoufand men^ a force not fuperior to the army which garrifoned th* place. But a reii>forcement arriving of Englifb, Normans, Flemings, and Genoefe, they made an af.» fault upon the outer walU which they carried fword i» hand. In a fucceeding attack, meeting with an ob- flinate refifVance, which induced them to give way^ they were animated to renew their efforts by Godfrey of Bouillon, who pretended that he had feen a horfe-> man defcend from the clouds, and aflured them that heaven fought on their fide. Such was the efFcA of this artifice on their minds, that, repeating the afTaull with frefh vigour, they took the city by ftorm. The celebrated leader, to whofe zeal and aiSiivity this event had been owing, and who had diftinguifhed himfelf by his conduiSl through the whole expeditian, was by univerfal confent crowned king of Jerufalem. He afterwards reduced Ptplemais Cefarea, Antipatris, Af- kalon, and other cities ; but did not live to enjoy his profperity more than the fpace of a year. Baldwin, furnamed Bruaenfis, governor of Edefla, and coufin of the lite king, was unanimoufly eleiHed in nine TURKY.] GENERAL TRAVELLER, >f# t lis r*' U in hii room, in the yeir i loo. He took from the infiileli the (Irong city of Tyre, and afterward* ob> tiined three fignal viAoriei. He alfo laid fiege to Damafcui i but a flrlcneri breaking forth in hii army, he Will obliged to raife it, and dying after a reign of thirty years, he wm fucceeded in the kingdom of Jerufalcm by Fulk, earl of Anjou, who had married hii daughter Melefinda or Margaret. Durinf; this reign divifions happened among the Chriftians, of whom the different partie* fomecimei fought the affiftance of the infidels, with the view of over-powering their rivals. The Greek emperor like- wife laid Tiegc tu Antioch, which he claimed as a part «f hit dominion:' i and the confederates were obliged to confcnt that Kaymund, earl of PoiAou, the go- vernor, (boulJ hold tliat city of the Greek crown. Fulk having reigned eleven years, was killed by a fall from his horfe as he was hunting) and leaving two fons, Baldwin and Almerick, the former, who ' was the eldeft, was eleAed by the Chriftian princes to fuccced him on the throne. Baldwin, at his ac- ceifion, being only thirteen years of age, his mother was joined with him in the adminiftraiion of govern* mcnt'. The Chriftians, who had now been in the pofTeflion of the Holy Land, and the adjacent countries, more than forty years, had eftablilhed four confiderablc flatet, namely, that of EdefTa, which comprehended the countries on the banks of the Euphrates, the diflrift of Tripoli, the diftrifl of Antioch, ind the kingdom of Jerufalem. Had the princes of tbofe feveral territories continued unanimous, they might probabljr htve bid defiance to all the power of the Mahometan* I but falling out with each cither, San- guin, fultan of Aleppo, and afterwards Noradin his fon, availed themfclves of their difputes, and recovered nioft of the conquefls which the Chriflians had made in the country. Thofe events induced the king of Jeru- falem and the prince of Antioch to requeil frefh fuccours from Europe, which gave birth to the fecond crufade. In this enterprise, which happened in the year 1147, Conrad, emperor of Germany, embarked in perfon, at the head of a fine army of a hundred thou- fand men. But the Grecian emperor having joined to oppofe him, he loft great part of his troops, by famine and the fword, as well as by ficknefi, and returned without being able to perform any memorable atchievement. Another crufade was foo.! afterwards put i ito motion by Louis the feventh, king of France. T his prince carried with him his queei Eleanor, heirefs of the duchy uf Aquitain; but difcovering her to be guilty of feme criminal amours at Antioch, he divorced her, and immediately abandoning the enterprize, re- turned to his own country. Mean while Saladin, fultan of Damafcus, who had made himfelf mafler of Egypt in the year 1173, ob- fcrving great divifions among the Chriflian princes in Paleftine, befieged and took Jerufalem in 1 187, after it had remained in the hands of the Chriftians eighty- nine years. He alfo made himfelf mafter of Antioch ; and the moft of the towns which the Chriftians had taken were furrendered to the Turks. The flame of the holy war, however, bcinj not yet extinguifhcd in Europe, Frederick, eniprror uf Germany, and feveral princes of the empire, engaged in another crufade. Arriving in Afla, they gave battle to the Turkifh fultan of Iconium, and obtaining a cnm,>lete victory, tuck that city by ftorm. The emperor like- wife defeated the fultan in a fubfequrnt aiSion; but attempting to paf* a river in the purfuit of the enemy, he was unfortunately drowned. His fon Frederick, who, on the dettli of his father, was proclaimed em- peror by the army, recovered the city of Aiiiioch, and had laid fiege to Aeon or Ptotemais, when the plague making great havoc among his troops, and himfelf dying of the dilVafe, the Chriftians in Paleftine were again reduced to a very critical fli lation. In this extremity Richard I. king of England, and Philip Auguftus, king of France, were prevailed upon by the pope to undertake another crufade. This expedition commenced in the year 1 IQO, and the armies were tranf- ported by fca to the Holy (jand. 7'he two kings con- ducing themfclves rather like jealous rivals than cordial allies, agreed only in the operation of befieging Aeon or Ptolemais, of which they made themfelves mafters. Soon after this event the French king returned to Europe, and invaded the king of England's dominions in Normandy. The latter receiving advice of this tranfaAion, haftened to oppofe him ; but in his paflag* through Germany, was made prilbner by the emperor, where he was feised, and detained above a year, through the intrigues of the French king, and afterwards obliged < to pay a great ranfom for his liberty. The fituation in which the Chriftians we/e left iit Paleftine by (he precipitate retreat of tbofe two princes, obliged them again to folicit the prote£lion of Europei and another cflibrt was therefore made for th»eft'e£lual recovery of the Holy Land. When the forces that embarked in this expedition were arrived at Conllanti- nople, where they expeAed to have been joined by the eaftern emperor, they found an ufurper upan the throne, who oppofed their pafTage into Ada. Irritated at this obftrudiion, they laid fiege to Conftantinopir, and took the city by ftorm, in the year 1200. The com- manders of the Chriftian confederates elected Baldwin (earl of Flanders and Hainault) emperor of Conftanti- nople, by whofe influence the Greek church was in- duced to adopt the rites and ceremonies of the Latins, and acknowledge the fupremacy of the pope. The new emperor however had only part of the European provinces under his dominion, viz. the city of Con- ftantinople »nd the province of Thrace. To the Venetians was allotted the ifland of Candia or Crete, with all the iflands in the Ionian fea: the marquis of Monferrat obtained ThefTaly and part of Peloponnefus, with the title of king : Godfrey of Troyes, a French- man, was conftituted duke of Athens, and prince of Achaia : the duke of Blois likewife was nominated to a duchy; and various other adventurers obtained terri- tories, all which however they were to hold of the emperor Baldwin, as their fupreme lord. With r«. fpefl to the Afiatic dominions, the family of the Greek emperors was permitted to make a partition of them. Adria- \'\ 200 THE MODERN [Europe. Atlrianoplc, th* ffcond city of Thrtc*, (till rcmiiii* ing ill the |>oflienioB of the Orccki, Ueldwin laid fiege to it, On which the Greeks inviting the Tarturt ti> their tfliftince, the Utici idvanceJ to theii relief, and fkirmiAied fcveral daya with the befiegfri. At length the Chrilliiini being led into an ambtifcade, were en- tirely defeated, and Baldwin the emperor made pri- foner. 'I'he enemy having inhumanly cut oft' hii hiiiidi and feet, left him in the field to perifli, wbcie he died three dayi after, i« the thirty-third year of hia age, aid before ht had reigned a complete twelvemonth. On the death of Baldwin, the confederatea eleAed his brother Henry, emperor of ConflastinopU, whu, with the ai&ftance of the king at Thcflaly (marquii of Monferrat), recovered all the placet the Tartan had taken in Thrace, and drove them out of that province. The moft formidable of the Mahometan poweri at ihii time, wai the fultan of Sgypt, who had poflciTcd himfelf of great part of Paleftine, a* well a» Jerufalem. It wai therefore determined, at • council of war held in the ifland of Cyprui, to attack this potentate in hit African dominions. In purfuance of which reiblution, about fixty thoufand Chrlftiant, under the command of the king of France, fet fail for Egypt in the year 1249. In four days th father, *uuk Uvcral more towni from the (irccun emperor, and imon^ the rcll AJriinople« which he nude (he capital ot lii> dominium, Alioiit tliii time the body of Janizaries wai hrll cllablilhcd, Amurath ordeiing that every fifth captive, above fifteen yean of age, lliuuld be retained in hii feivice, and educated In the reiaglio ) out of whom a certain number of the befl nature (huuld be fcU-^led for the fultan'i ({uardi. of the 'I'uiki have fince retained. The reign of ihii princt ii memorable fur one of (ho moft extraordinary tranli£)iuni that occur in hiltory. Among the captivei taken in Conftantinople, W.I1 a beautiful (ireek virgin, named Irene, wiili whom Mahomet wai To enamoured, that he fpent hii whole time in her company for almuft a year, abandon* ing the care ol the govei nmtnt ent rely to hii minifteri, and hardly ever being fecn Ly the people. The jani- zariei becoming difcontented at thii elTeminacy of the liajacrt, the next fultan, proceeded to extend the , emperor, began to mutiny, when the bafhaws ventured Tuikifti empire yet farther, both in Europe and Afia, | to acquaint him of the danger they dreaded of • till beini' dclcJit'd by TainerUne in the plaini of Stella, { revolution. The I'ultan, »fter reprehending the free- he wai made priluncr. Kven in adveifiiy, hii iiifu< dum of hii minillera, replied, that *' hii fubje£ti fhoulu lent language (o much provoked the conqueror, that fee he had ri great « command of hit paflioni at my of the latter i» « id tn have put him in an iron cage, thom," and ordered that all the great ofticeri of flate againll the bars of which he knocked out hii brains , fhould attend him in the divan next day. Mean- in a lit of chagrin, about two yean after hiidifcom- while he dcfired that Irene fhould be drelTed in her fiture. fined robci, .and appear at the aflirmbly. The hour being On the (Ic.ith of Tamerlane, in 1404, the live Tons come, the emperor placed her on a raifed floor, in of Ii.ijaztt conienilrd for the dominions of their f.ithcr, the niiJdIu of hii lords, and demanded, if they thought when, altir » civil war that lalled ten years, during 1 he dclcrved cenl'ure for refigning himfelf to fo charm- which all (he cunipctitors died, except Mahomet, the ing an objci5V. Every one declarin|r it wai impoffible yourgcd of the brothers, this prince was acknowledged to refill '! •» . » • 1 . ■ Tttiit HUN R Y. •K'\H • ; t 'IN ...CHAP. I. Of thi fituathn—rlviri^lakii—'ijlimdt—chltftiiiunt— fraduci—manufailuris—'commtrci, HUNGARY is fituatc between 16 and 23 degrees of call longitude, and between 45 and 49 degrees of north latitude. It is bounded on the eaft by VValachia and Tranfllvania ; on the fouth by the river Drave, which frparates it from Sclavonia; on the weft by Auflria and Moravia; and on the north by the Carpathian or Crapack mountains, which divide it from Poland ; being upwards of three hundred miles in length, and two hundred and fifty in breadth. In the time of the Romans, this country formed part of (he luicicnt Pannonia, but received its modern name from n tribe of Scythians, who fettled here in the third century. In the whole of this extenfive kingdom wc hardly meet with one mountain ; but it abounds in meadow:, bogs, lakes, and rivers, joined to the moifkire of which, the great vii iflirudes of heat .•>nd cold, ill ilie latter part of fumnicr, render the air very No. J'/. '■, unhealthful. Once in three or four years it is ufualljr vifited by a peflilential fever, which occaflons the country to he called the grave of the Germans, their armies having been fo often dellroyed by the difeafes of the climate. The chief rivers are, i. The Danube, which runs through the whole length of the country, from Pref> burgh to Belgrade, in a dire£lion from the north-weft to the fouth-eafl, 2. The Drave, which runs from weft to eaft, and falls into the Danube at EITeclc. 3. The TeyfTe, which rifing in the Carpathian moun- tains, palTes by Tokay, then runs fouthward, and falls into the Danube oppofite to Salankeman, 4, The Merifh, which has its fource in Tranfllvania, and running weftward, falls into the TeyfTe, oppofite to Segedin. 5. Gran, which ilTuing from the Carpathiai; mountains, runs fouth, and difcharges itfelf into the Danube near the city of Gran. 6. The Woag, which riflng in the north part of the kingdom, runs fouth., and falls into the Danube oppofite to Komorra. 7. The Raab, which rifcs in Itiria, and running north-eaft, joins the Danube oppofite to the ifland of D d d Schut. f.^ 202 H M D R N [F.UROPE, Schut. Thofe feveral rivers abound fo much in fi(h, that they would almod fubfift the inhabitants if they had no olher food. The chief laken are, i. The Balaton, or Platenfee, about forty miles long, and twelve broad, fituated ■Imoft in the middle between the Danube and the Drave. a. The New Fidel Sea, weft ward of the pre- ceding, and nearly of the fame dimenfions. 3. The Bolter Lake, in the fouth-eaft, in the Bannat of Temefwaer. No country abounds more in hoc-baths ; and there are fountains of furprifing qualities, particularly a fpring of vitriolic water, which turns plates of iron into copper, and others of fuch a nature as to kill any animal that drinks of them. In the Danube, a little below Buda, is an ifland forty miles long, with a Z'^"' 'nany villages upon it. At the confluence of the Danube .'iid the Drave, is another large ifland ; but the largeft aui moft fruitful is that of Schutz, near Prefbur^, upwards of forty miles in length, and twenty in breadth. This ifland was given to prince Eugene of Savoy for his fervices againft the Turks. This kingdom is divided by the Danube into Upper and Lower Hunjiry, the former of which is fituated towards the north-caft. 7'hc chief towns of this diviflon are, 1. Prefburg, the capital, fcated on the north fide of the Danube, near the confines of Auftria, about forty miles eaft of Vienna. It is a large, populous, pleafant city, and well built. It is not a place of great ftrength, but has an antique caftle ftanding on an eminence, where the regalia are kept, and the fovereigns crowned. Here likewife the flates aflemble, and the fupreme courts of Juftice are held. 2. Newhaufel, fituated on the river Neytre, thirty miles eafl of Prefburg, and eftecmed a ftrong town. 3. Leopoldllat, a fortified place fituated forty miles north of Newhaufel. 4. Chr>:mitz, ftanding at the foot of the Carpathian mountains, and reckoned the chief of the mine towns, of which there are many in thofe parts, viz. Sch. mitz, Newfol, Humgrunt, Ef- pcries, and Cafchaw. Agria is fituated on a river of the fame name, in the middle of Hungary, It is a well foi-tified town, and the caftle efteemed one of the rtrongeft fortreflcs in Europe. Peft is a large town, feated on the north fide Of the Danube, oppofite to Buda, with which it has communication by a moveable bridge, half a mile in length. Segcdin is fituate on the river Teyffe, ninety miles north of Belgrade. Tokay, celebrated . for its excellent wine, ftands at the confluence of the river TeyflTe and Bodruck, forty miles eaft of Agria. The other towns of note in the Upper h-r-fary are, Great Waradin, about one hundred miles eaft o ' Buda; Mongatz, a ftrortg fortrefs, fituated near the frontiers of Poland ; Zoinock, Unguar, and Temefwaer; the latter of which is the capital of the Bannat of Temefwaer, and the ftrongeft fortrefs which the Auftrians now podefs on the frontiers of Turky. Lower Hungary is fituated between the rivers Danube and Drave. I. The capital of this divifion is Buda, which ftands on the fide of an eminence on the fouth- weft bank of the Danube, It is a populous town, and defended by a ftrong caftle. While Buda was in the hands of the Turks, its natural baths were in great cfleem, and the buildings very magnificent i but they have been much neglefled fincB that time. a. The city of Gran, Strigonium, is fituated on the fide of the Danube, thirty miles north-weft of Buda. This is the fee of an archbifhop, who is primate of Hungary, It is a large and well built town, in which the greateft ftruftures are the cathedral, dedicated to St, Stephen, the archb'lhop's pulace, and the caftle, 3. Komutia ftands on the ifland of Sihut, almoft furroundcd by the Danube and VVaag. 4. Raab, a f. rtified town, and the fee of a bifliop, fituatc near the fouth branch of the Danube, oppofite to the ifland of Schut. 5, Alba Regalis, or Stul WeifTenburg, feated in the middle of a bog, on the river Zanwitza, forty miles fouth of Gran, where the ancient kii)»^s of Hungary were crowned. The foil of Hungary is exceeding fruitful, and pro- duces excellent corn. The meadows and paftures are likewife rich, and covered with herds of cattle. Game is fo plentiful that none are reftraincd from taking it. Even the pooreft people in the country cat partridges and pheafants. The grapes are large and lufcious, and produce the beft wine Europe; particularly that of Tokay. A vulgar error has till lately prevailed, that the Tokay wine is in fo fmall quantity, as never to ' ■ found genuine, unlefs when given in pretents by the court of Vienna : but the extent of ground on which it grows affords fufiicient proof of the contrary. It is a common defert wine ia all the great families at Vienna, and in Hungary, and is very generally drank in Poland and Ruflia, being ufed at table in thofe countries, like Madeira in this. Another vulgar error is, that all the Tokay wine is the property of the emprefs-queen. She is not even the moft confiderable proprietor, nor of the beft wine; fo that every year file lells oft" her own, and purchafes from the other proprietors, to fupply her table, and the prcfents fhe makes of it. The greateft proprietor is the prince Trautzon, an old man, at whofe death, indfed, his eftate will efcheat to the crown ; but many others of the German and Hungarian nobility have large vineyards at Tokay. Moft of the gentle- men of the neighbourhood have part of their efiates there: the Jefuits College ac Ungovar has a confider- able (hare of the beft wine; and befides thofe, many of the peafants have vineyards, which they hold of the queen, or other lords, by paying a tythe of the annual produce. There is never any red wine made at Tokay, and the vintage is always late. It commonly begins about the end of Odlober, but fometimes not till near the middle of November. Four forts of wine are made from the fame grapes, which they diftinguifli at Tokay by the names of eflence, aufpruch, mafslafch, and the common wine. As the Carpathian mountains aftbrd great variety of minerals, the chief manufaJlurcs of the country are thofe of hard-ware, which, with their wines, are alfothc principal articles of their commerce; excluding the numerous herds of cattle with which they furnifh the Auftrians, and the inhabitants of all the adjacent territories. CHAP. Hungary.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 203 C H A P. II. Of tht pirfim of the Hungariani—'drtfi^pvernment— revenue —forces — method of travelling— bridges— religion, TH E natives of Hungary are for the mod part of a good fize, and well proportioned. They are not fo large as the Germans, but very ailive and hardy ; and from their country having been long the fcene 01' a£iion between the Chriftians and Turks, they are -nurcd to a military life, for which a great degree A natural courage feems peculiarly to adapt them. The men (have their faces, leaving whiskers on their upper lip. They wear a fur cap, with fometimes a feather ; and a clofe coat girt about them with a fafli. Their upper garment is a ihort cloalc or mantle, which reaches as low as their middle, and is buckled under one arm. The people of rank of both fexes, however, have not much of the flun- garian drefs, and imitate the fafliions of the French ; only the women throw a veil over them when they go abroad. This country was formerly an elciSiv kingdom ; but the houfe of AuHria ufurping the thro .e upwards of two hundred years ago, it has ever fince continued in that family by hereditary fucceflion, notwithllanding the frequent efForts of the Hungarians to reftore their ancient conftitution. At the election of a king, the cuftom was for the bJftiops, the lay-no'uility, and the rcprefentatives of the feveral counties and cities, to alTemblc in the plain of Rackes, near Pcft, where having agreed on a fucceflbr, who was ufually the next a-kin to the deceafed monarch, he was attended to StulweilTcnburg (Alba Regalis) and prefcnted to the people by the palatine, who demanded three times whether they approved of their new-cle£led king. Having exprefled their confcnt, the fovercign was in- verted with a naked fword, which he immediately br.indiflied. Afterwards proceeding to the cathedral, the approbation of the people was a f-cond time aflced, by the archbifhop, which being granted, the prelate performed the coronation rites ; while the fpiritual and temporal lords, whofe office it was, carried king Stephen's arms, and other parts of the regalia before the new king to the palace. King Stephen's crown is (lill kept at Prefourg, and is the obje£l of great veneration. The reafon of which is faid to be, that this monarch having begun to propagate the Chrirtian religion in his dominions, and fending the bifliop of Coloiza to pope Henediifl VII. to defire he would confirm his late election to the throne, the pope was dircfled by an angel to fend him this crown. The palatine is the litil great officer in the kingdom, and was formerly elefled by the 'flatei. Since the reins of government were afTumed by the houfe of Auftria, this officer has been appointed by the crown; but her pre.fent imperial majefly, in confideration of the fcrvices rendered to her by the Hungarians in the late wars, has promifed that the inhabitants (hail henceforth enjoy the ancient privilege of elecling, or at leaft, of nominating their own palatine. A great part of the executive power is committed to thi$ magiftrate. He aflembles the ftatcs, gives audience to ambafladors, was guardian to their infant princes, and took the adminiilration into his hands, during;; an inter-regnum or vacancy of the throne. The common people here are the vaflals of the re- fpeftive lords on whofe lands they f'Ae; to whom they not only pay rent, but per"'irin vurious fcrvices. In all cafes of litigation their reforr is to the cijurts of thofe proprietors, who enjoy a prefcriptive right of jurifdidlion within their own eftates, and were the only perfons who had any vote at the eledtion of the king; the peafants being merely their (laves. The ordinary revenue which this kingdom yields ta the crown, is inconfiderablc, not amounting to much more than a hundred thoufand pounds a year, ariflng chiefly from the duties laid on minerals and cattle. It is ufual, however, for the fovereign to demand of the ftates fuch fums as are neceflary for the fupport of the government, and other ufes ; and aif the ex- adlion of them may be enforced, the payment is feldom refufcd. The whole country is a well regulated militia, cflcemed equal, if not fuperior to any in Europe. The horfe are called hulTars, and the foot heydukes. Like the Swifs, they let themfelves out to any nation that will pay them, when the fervice of their fovereign requires not their immediate attendance. The ufual way of travelling by land is on horfe- back, or in an open chariot, drawn by three or four horfes a-breartj but having a great many navigable rivers, they travel in funimer moft commonly by water, which is alfo the fafeft method. For the huflars, who have been accudomed to plunder in foreign fervice, often commit adls of robbery; and many parts of the kingdom are likewife infefled with gypfies. Some of the bridges over the Danube are of great extent. That of Eflcck, which ftands at the con- fluence of the Drave and the Danube, and over the marfhes adjoining to thofe rivers, is five miles in length, and at the diflance of every quarter of a mile, is furnilhed with a tower. Thi:* is an important pafs, where many (kirmifhes have happened between the Chriftians and the Turks, The ilying-bridge of boats between Buda and Pefl is half a mile in length. But the moft magnificent bridge that ever was laid over the Danube, was that creftcd by the Romans, the ruins of which are yet vifibie, about eighty miles from Belgrade. It appears to have confifted of twenty piles or pillars of hewn ftone, a hundred foot high. The bafis of each is a fquare of fixty foot, and the diftance between them a hundred and fcvcnty foot. The following infcription was engraved on the moft confpicuous part of the ftrudlure. Provi- dtntia Aug. vere poiitificis virtus Romana quid non domat fuh jugum ecce ? Rapilur & Danubius, Molt of the people of this country were difciples of John Hufs, and afterwards of Calvin, but divided into a multitude of feints, fome of which entertaining very extravagant opinions, a pcrfecution was raifed 4 againft 204 THE MOD R N [Europe. againft them by the Roman Catholics. Her imperial majefty, however, has promifed them a toleration of their religion; and this at prefent they enjoy. TRANSILVANIA, SCLAVONIA, CROATIA, and BOSNIA. All thofe provinces lie contiguous to Hungary, and are not only under the guvcrnment of the fame fove- reign, but afford almod the fame produce. Tranfilvania is fituatc between 22 and 25 degrees of caft longitude, and between 45 and 4.8 degrees of north latitude. It is bounded on the weft by Hun- gary } on the north by Poland; on the call by Mol- davia; on the fouth by VValachia, and the Bannat of Temefwaer. From north to fouth, it meafures about a hundred and ninety miles, and is nearly of the fame extent from cafl to wed. It is furrounded by woods and mountains, the Carpathian mountains fe- parating it from Poland, and the Iron-gate mountains from Turlcy; bcfides which there arc fcveral others in the middle of the country. The valleys in fummer are exceflive hot. The chief rivers are, the Alauta, which in part fcpaiarcs the dominions of Audria from Turky; and the Marifli, which rifing in the north, runs through part of Hungary, and difcliarges itfelf into the Teyfle, This province is ufun'iy divided into four parts, namely, Sicben Burgen, Scculi, the Hungarian diflri£t, and the country of the Cingars, or Gypfios. The iirfl of thefe comprehends two thiids of the country. The inhabitants, who call themfelves Saxons, are fuppofed to be dc''';cndcd from the ancient Dacians. The Scculi lie north (aft of the preceding, and are the poftcrity of the Huns. The inhabi'.ants of t'.e Hungarian diftriiSl lie r,n the confines of that kingdom; and the Cingars, or Gypfies, who live in tents, pitch them upon every common, and are n.olljy fmiths or }iard- ware men. The chief towns arc, 1. Hcrmanftat, the cnpital, fituatcd in a fine plain, on the bank of the river Cibin. This is a ftrong town, well built, and canals run alonj; the middle of fume of the ftr;ets. It is the fee pf a bidiop, and the feat of the courts of juftice. The chief trade of the place is in wine, mead, and woollen clolh. 2. Cromftat or Corona, a frontier town, near tlic borders of .Moldavia, .-.bout li\ty miles north-caft of Hermanftat, ftrongly fortified, and furrounded by vineyards. 3. Claufcnbiirg, a lar^re p>;julous city, Handing on the river Samos, fixty milos north-weft of Hermanftat, 4. Btfiricii, lituuc iiv.ir the Carpathian mountains and the mines of Rodna, The other towns of any note are, Hogarus, Segefwaer, Mcgus, Alba- Julia, Huniad, Thorda, Dohoka, Zatmar, Deva, Marcozeeic, Girgio, Uvarthel, Chick, Kifda, Orbav, and Schepft. The province of Sclavonia anciently extended .ilmoft from the Adriatic to the Euxine Sea, but is now comprehended within much narrower limits; having the river Drave on the north, the Danube on the eaft, the Save on the fouth, and the duchy of Stiria oa the weft. It is about three hundred miles in length, and upwards of fixty in breadth; a level country, and watered with three of the fineft rivers in Hun- gary, bcfides others lefs confid^rable 1. The chief town is Pofega, fituate on the river Orana, a hundred and thirty miles weft of Belgrade, 3. Walpo, forty miles north-eaft of the preceding, 3. VValcowar, feated near the Danube, twenty miles fouth of Efteck. 4 Peterwaraden, alfo near the Danube, fifty miles fouth -eaft of Eflcck. 5. Salankamen, fituated near the Danube, fifteen miles fouth eaft of Peterwaraden, rendered confpicuous for the vidlory obtained over the Turks by prince Lewis cf "aden, in i6gi. 6. Car- lowitz, where the peace v.s concluded between the Auftrians and Turks, iii o^,;. The remaining towns of note are, Seirlin, .Mt Sirmium, Zagrab, and Gradilka. The province of Croatia is bounded on the north and eaft by Sclavonia, on the fouth by Bofnia, and on the weft by Carniola. The chief towns are Carlftadt, which ftands on the river Culp, a hundred and forty miles fouth of Vienna; and Sifej, fituate on the river Save, forty-five miles caft of the prc- ce'ling. The province of Bofnia lies between Croatia and Servia, and is divided between the Auftrians and Turks ; the former pofTcfling the country weftward of the river Unna, and the latter that on the eaft fide. The chief town in the Auftrian divifion is Unatz, and in the other Whitfch. Thofe feveral provinces are generally level and open, except Tranfilvania, which is mountainous and woody. They are very fruitful where cultivated, iiid would produce plenty of rorn and wine; but lying on the frontiers of Turky, and therefore expofed frequently to be eaten up by the armies of both countries, they add but little to the levenues of the fovcreign, to whom iometimes they are even chargeable. They are all fubjciSl to the emprcfs-quccn. The eftabliftied religion is the Roman Catholic; but many of the in- habitants are proteftants, and fomc of the Greek church. B O H E. IS co; Tl am ,;.! M ROHEMIA.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 20; B O H E M A. C H A P. 1. Of the divifioH — f.tuation — river: — chief touini— produce-^manufailurei. TH I S kingdom, comprehending Bohemia Proper, Silcfia, and Moravia, is fituate between 12 and 19 degrees of eaft longitude, and between 48 and 53 degrees oF north latitude. It is bounded on the north by Lufatia, the cledlorates of Saxony and Branden- burg; on the eaft by Poland and Hungary; on the fouth by Audria p.nd the duchy of Bavaria; and on the weft by the palatinate of Bavaria, and another part of Saxony, [t is in length about three hundred miles, and in breadth two hundred and fifty. The country for the moft part is mountainous, and the divifions above mentioned arc furrounded by high hills covered with woods, which, by obftrufling the ventilation, render the air rather unhealthful. Some of the hills arc barren rocks; but they abound in mines of filver, copper, lead, and iron. The chief rivers are, the Elbe, Muldaw, Eger, Bobber, the Nicfte, Oder, Wcfcl or Viftula, Moraw, and the Theyflc, The chief towns in Bohemia Proper, which is the largeft and moft wcfterly divifion, are, 1. Prague, the capital of the kingdom, fituate on the river Mul- daw, in 14 degrees 46 minutes eaft longitude, and 50 degrees 6 minutes of north latitude ; about a hundred and forty miles north-weft of Vienna, and feventy miles fouth of Drcfdcn. This city confifts of three towns united, viz. Old Prague, New Prague, and Little Prague, The Old town ftands on the eaft fide of the river, and contains a univerfiiy, and fevcral mon.irterics. It is fu' rounded by the New town, from which it is fepar.itcd only by a moat, having for its defence a wall, with fome modern forlifieations ; but it is fo very large as to require an army to garrifon it. The Little town is feparated from the others by the river, over which is a fine ftone bridge. Part of it ftands upon an eminence, on which is a caftle, and a royal palace, where their ancient kings refided. Here likcwife ftands the cathedral, with the houfes of the nobility. Befides thofe three parts, there is a fub- urb of Jews, who are very numerous. This city is one of the largeft in Europe, and reckoned the moft populous next to London, Paris, and Conftantinnple; but being commanded by feveral hills, it has greatly fuftered i., ii late wars. 2. The fecond confiderable city in Bohemia Proper is Egra, which ftands on the river Eger, near the coiiiincs of Franconia, eighty miles weft of Prague. This is a fortified town, and was feveral times taken and rrt,)kcn during the late wars. 3. Coningfgrata, fituate on tho river Elbe, fifty miles eaft of Pr.iguc. This town is the fee of a bifh.or, No. 17. who is fuffragan to the archbifliop of Prague; and near it are feveral rich mines, which have bet.i wrought for almoft eight hundred years. 4. Glatz fituated on the weft fide of the mountains which divide Bohemia Proper from Silefia, a hundred miles north-eaft of Prague. The county of Glatz, of which this is the capital, was poflefled by the king of Pruf&a in 1741, and confirmed to him at a fub- fequent treaty, by the queen of Hungary. It furren- dered to the Auftrians after a fhort fiege, on the 6th of July, 1760; but was reftored to the king of Pruftla by the treaty of Hubertfbouig, in 1763. 5. Budwcis, fituate on the Muldaw, fixty miles fouth of Prague. The province of Silefia, now the property of the king of Pruflia, is bounded on the north by Branden- burgh; on the eaft by Poland: on the fouth by the mountains of Reiflenbergcn, which divide it from Moravia; and on the weft by Bohemia Proptr. The chief towns are, i. Breflaw, the capital, fituated on the river Oder, a hundred and twci.-y miles north-eaft of Prague. It is a large populous city, but of no great ftrength. It has long enjoyed many confiderable privileges, among which is that of being governed by its own magiftrates, and of not being liable to have foldiers quartered in it. Thofe privileges the king of Pruflia promifed that the inhab tants fhould retain, when he took polTcnion of the place. Here it a uni- verfity, and a bilhop's fee; but by the treaty of Bref- law, it was agreed, that the bilhop fhould thereafter refide at Oppelcn. 2. Grofl'en, capital of a duchy of the fame name, and fituated on the river Oder, in the north pare of the province. 3. Glogaw, fituated likewife on the Oder, forty miles fouth-caft of Croflcn. It is a fortified town, and the capital of a duchy. 4. Lignitz, capital of a duchy, lying upwards of thirty miles north-weft of Breflaw. 5. Jagendorf, fituate on the river Tropaw, on the borders of Moravia, feventy miles fouth of Breflaw. 6. Tropaw, ftanding on the river of the fame name, fifteen miles fouth-caft of the preceding, and the capital of a duchy. 7. Niifie, fituate on the river Niefle, forty-five tnile* fouth of Breflaw. 8. Oppelen, capital of a duchy, fituate on the river Oder, thirty miles fouth-eaft 01" Breflaw. The third great divifion of the kingdom of Bohemia, is the marquifate of Moravia, which is bounded on the north and eaft by Silefia, on the fouth by Auftria, and on the weft by Bohemia Prope/. The chief towns are, i. Olmutz, capit.il of the province, (landing on the river Moraw, fevcnly-five miles north of Vienna, and upward! of a hundred eaft of Prague, It is well K e e fituated \l 206 THE MODERN [EuROPEi fituatcd for trade, and is the only bifhop's fee in this divirion, 2. Brin, a fortified town, fltuate at the confluence of two fmali rivers, fifty miles north of Vienna, and thirty miles fuuth-wcd of Ohnutz. The alTembly of the ftatcs meet at this place. 3. Iglaw, featcd ua a river of the fame name, on the confines of Bohemia Proper, fixty-eighc miles fouth- weflof Olmtitz, on the road from Bohemia to Hungary, 4. Hradifh, i>a:ed on an ifland in the river Moraw, thirty miles fouth of Olmutz. In the valleys of Bohemia the foil is fruitful, and produces corn and wine fufficicnt for the confumption of the inhabitants; but the wine is finail, and ihcre- fore unfit for exportation. The country affords great quantities of good barley and hops, of which they make Co much beer, that it forms a confiderable article of tlicir trade, flax and hemp are alfo very plentiful, and the Bohemians export a good deal of linen. Of this manufaiSture, particularly what is called Silefia lawns, England purchafcs a confiderable quantity ; but ic is fuppofc'd, tliac a great part of what is fo called is the nunufadlure of the French, which they carry to Hamburgh, and fell to the Englifh merchants, as tlic produce of Silefia. Saffron is here n frequent cninm .''ity, a:ul the pardcns are flocked witli the fame fruits, herbc, roots, and flowers, as thofe of Britain. The country abounds in neat cattle, flicep, deer, poultry, and all other animals, wild or tame, that arc to be met with in the inland parts of Europe. The horfes are of a large fizc, fit for the draught or troop, and are bought up by the Jews for the French, when they have occasion to recruit their cavalry. The mines are licli in filvci, lead, and iron; and here are many precious floiics, particularly amethyfts, carbuncles, ru- bies, jafpcr, and fapphircs. The country, however, produces fo little common fait, that they are obliged to import this article; but they have .1 fufHcicnt quan- tity of falt-petre, and fome fulphur. C H A P. II, Of tiJ! pirfiits of thi Bohemians-— charaSlir—divirfims ^—hi/hry — pvcir.mcnt-— language — religion. TH E Bohemians are of a large flature, inclined to corpulency, robuft, and have generally clear complexions. They formerly wore the habit of the L-aflern countries ; but have many years fincc changed it for that of the more wcllern Europeans. The com- mon people are for the moll part of a dull phlegmatic difpofition, but thole of the better fort arc cfteemcd polite and ingenious. The latter, however, much affeiit a profufe and expenfive way of life, which, joined with their extreme propenfity to play, would render them utterly indigent, were it not that the r;rcater part of tluir cftates is by tiie cultom of the country unaliinable. In eating and drinking, all i.in-i in the nation are juftly chargeable with intem- perance. Fc-afiing not only confiituies a part in every kind of diverficn, but is frequently introduced where people are afTcmbled upon bufincfs. The common diverfions are hunting, hawking, fifhing, or in winter running over the ice and fnow in fkatcs and fltdgrs. They have likewife frequent dancing, mafqueraces, plays, and operas; and fo general is the tarte of mufic, that theie is hardly a village where the mafs is not fung in concert. The houfes of the nobility and gentry are built of flone, chiefly on the Italian model. They live moflly on iheir eflates, where they generally cxcrcife an opprcffivc authoiiiy over their vafl'als. The annals of this nation, previous to the fourteenth century, are extremely imperfect. It appears that the country was originally divided into a great number of principalities, ftyltd for the mofl part duchjcs. About the year 600, thofc detached provinces were united by Zechius, who was diflinguiftied by the title of the great duke. The next fovercign of whom we find any mention, is Cracus, who is fuppofcd to have reigned about the year 700. He was fucceeded in the throne by his daughter LibufTa; but the people being difTatisfied with a female adminiflration," were about to depofe her, when it is faid flie pretended t- an authority from heaven, to turn a horfe loofo in the flreets, and to take for her hufband the man at v/kole houfc he fhould flop. The animal bcine; accordingly let loofe, flopped at the door of a peafant, named Primiflaus, whom Ihe therefore married, and reigned jointly with him till her death. The firfl Chriflian prince of the country was Borfi- voius, who began his reign in 856. Some years afterwards Bolillaus rcflorcd paganifm, having firft murdered his own brother Uladillaus I. the preceding king; but he was compelled to admit the re-eflablifh- ment of Chrillianity by Otlio the Great, who made him alfo tributary to the empire. In the year 1086, Uladiflaus II. was created king of Bohemia by the emperor Henry IV. The German emperors likewife advanced to the throne feveral fucccediiig kings, many of whom were dcpofed by the dukes, where their con- currence was not demanded. In the reign of Randolph II. king of Bohemia and Hungary, and emperor of Germany, the protellants of the empire entered into a confederacy, calkd the union, or evangelical league; choofing for their ge- neral, Frederic, cleilor palatine, with whom the pro- tellants of Hungary joined. They renounced their allegiance to the emperor Ferdinand, whom they had ackn )wledged their king, and in 1610 advanced to the ihrone the eledlor palatine, fon-in-law to James I. king of Great Britain. He enjoyed his new dignity, however, but a very fhort time, being defeated the next year by the duke of Bavaria, the emperor's general, From this epoch the throne of Bohemia has been filled by the emperors and their heirs, or princes appointed by them. On the demife of the crown, the landed proprietors afiemble, to exprefs their confent to the fucceffion of the pcrfon who is nominated to the throne- but they have now no con- flitutional power to reject or alter the appoint- ment. The prefent emprefs- queen always convokes the Germanv.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 207 the ilates when money is to be raifed, and they feldom refufe the fum which (he demands. The language of the Boheniiins was formerly the Sclavuniani but at prefcnt mod of them fpeuk the High Dutch or German language. The religion of the kingdom is the Roman Catholic, which hss been invariably profefled by the inhabitants fince the extir- pation of the (e& of reformers, named Hui&tei, in the fifteenth cencurjr. £ M N C H A P, I. Of the fttuation—bmndar!es—fact of the country- riven — air — divijiins of the emfiri. A^ERMANY is fituatc between 5 and 19 degrees ^-' of call longitude, and between 45 and 55 degrees of north latitude; being fix hundred miles long from eaft to wcli, and five hundred miles in breadth. It is bounded on the eaft by Poland, Bohimia, and Hun - gary j on the fouth by Switzerl.ind, and the Alps, which fcparate it from Italy; on the weft by the do- minions of Fiance and the Netherlands, from which it Is fiparaied by the rivers Rhine, Mofellc, and Macs; on the north by Denmark, the German Sea, and the Baltic. In tlie northern part of Germany there arc fome rocky barren mountains, which abound with minerals ; but the interior parts are interfpi-rfed with hills of a moderate height, forefts, valleys, meadows, and fruit- ful fields, elpecially near the great rivers. In the north of Weftphalia and Lower Saxony, bogs and moradla are frequent. Among the rivers the chief is the Danube, anciently named the Iftcr, which iifing in the Kl.ick Foreft in the fouth wc^l part of owabij, runs north-eaft through Sivabia and Ijavaria to Ratilbon; then alnioft due ca(t to Vienii.;; and aft'.rwaids, dividing Hungary into iwo parts, runs fouih-eaft to Belgrade in Scrvia, wlicuce running eaft tlirouL,h 'I'urky, it falls into the Euxine or Black Sea by fevcra! channels. The rivers which difcharge themfelves into the Danube on the fouth fide are, the Iller, or Ifcr, which joins it at Ulm ; the Lech, which paflts by Aufburg, and falls into the Danube near Donawert; the Ifer, which palling by Munich and Laufhut, falls into it eppofise to Deckcndorf; the Inn, which rifing in Switzerland, partes by Inl'pruck, and terminates at PafTaw; the Ens, which falls into the Danube at the town of Ens. Tlie rivers that difcharge themfelves into the Danube on the north arc, the Ragen, which joins it at Ratif- bon; and the Nab, which runs through Bavaria, and likcwil'i- joins it near Ratilbon. The Rhine riles in the country of the Grifons, and running north to the Lake of Conftancc, thence turns wcftward to Bafil, afer which it ;igain runs i;o:th hf.wecn Swabia and All'ace, then through thi palalinat.* and eltiilorate of Cologne, and entering the Mcl'.erl. lids, is divided into fcveral branches. The rivers that fall into the Rhine are, the Neckar, which runs from fouth to north through Swabia, and falls into the Rhine at Manheim, in the palatinate; the Maine, which runs from eaft to weft, and ends its courfc at Mentz ; the Lhon, which runs in the fame dirciEiion, and falls into the Rhine b<.low Naflau ; the Roer, which alfo runs in the fame diredtion through VVeftphalia, and falls into the Rhine at Duyfburg; and the Lippe, which runs parallel to the Roer, and falls into the Rhine at Welel. The Elbe, which rifes in the confines of Silefia, runs north-weft through Bohemia, Saxony, and Bran- denburg, and then feparatiiig the king of Great Britain's (lerman dominions from Holfteiii, falls into the German lea, about feventy miles below Hamb rg: receiving in its palTage the MulJaw, which falls into it below Prague ; the Sala, which joins it below Dcflau; the Havel, which unites with it at Havelf- burg; and the Ilnienau, whict) falls into it above Harburg. The Spree, which runs from fouth to north, through Saxony and Brandenburg, palling by Berlin, falls into the Havel near Potfdam. Th; Oder runs from fouth to north, through Silefia and Bnndenburg, and then pafllng by Stetin, divides I'omerania, and dilcharges itfelf into the Baltick, between the iflands of Ul'edom and Wollin. The Pcnc runs from weft to eaft, dividing Swcdifli from Prurtian Pomerania, and falls into the Baltic, oppofitc to Ufedom. The Wefer, rifing in HefTe, runs north, receiving the Allcr at Ferden ; then paffing by Bremen, falls into the German fea below Carlftat. The Ems, rifing near Munfter, and running north through Weftphalia, dilcharges itfelf into the fame fea below Emdcn. The Mofelle, rifing in Lorrain, runs north-eaft by T'oul, Mcntz, and I'reves, and falls into the Rhine at Coblcntz. The Saar, rifing likewifc in Lorrain, runs north- weft, and falls into the Mofelle at Triers. In the inland parts of Germany, the air is at all times more pure, and the weather lefs variable than in Britain; on which accoint the former is colder in winter, and hotter in fummer. The country is po- pulous, and adorned with many fine cities, caftles, and palaces. Germany is divided into nine circles, viz. Upper Saxony, Lower Sax(>ny, VVeftphalia, Ftanconia, Upper Rhine, Lower Rhine, Auftria, Bavaria, and Suabia. 4 Ther(^ ao8 T H MODERN fi li There was formerly a tenth circk, which confided of the duchy of Burgundy, and the fevcntccn provinces of the Netherlands ; hut thofr territories have long been detached from the empire. C H A P. II. C'lrilt of Upper Suxtny. T T P P E R Saxony is fituatc in the north-eaft *-^ part of Germany, and comprehends Pomerania, the marquifate of Brandenburg, the duchy of Saxony, the marquifate of Liifatia, and Mifiiia, with a number of other duchies and counties, Pomerania, the mofl northerly divifion, lies along the fhorc of the Baltic, forming a (rail of land two hundred and fifty miles in length from eafl to wed, and from fixly to feventy-five miles in breadth. It is a flat country, well fupplied with wood and water, but generally a cold barren foil. It is, however, ad- vanlageoufly fituatcd for a foreign trade, and has many good harbours, particularly Stetin and Stralfiind. The province is divided into two parts by the river Pcne; that on the cafl being called Pruflian or Bran- denburg Pomerania, and that on the weft, Swedifh Pomerania, from the crowns to which they belong. The principal rivers are, the Oder, the Penc, the Rega, the Perlant, the Wiper, the Stolpt, the Rcck- nitz, and the Barti;. The Recknitz llparaies Pome- rania from the duchy of Mecklenburg, forming a large lake near Danjgarten, The Oder, on its enter- ing Pomerania, divides into feveral branches, forming fome large iflands, and below Stetin, flows into the Damnifh lake, falling afterwards into a frefh-water lake, called the Great Frichiflafl', flxtecn miles over, difcharging itfelf into the Baltic by three channels, namely, the Divenow, the Swin, and the Pencmund. Between the river Pene and the Swin, lies the iflaiid of Ufedom; and between the Swin and the Divenow, the ifland of Wallin. The chief towns of Pomerania arc Stetin and Stral- fund, the former cf which belongs to the king of FrufTia, and the latter to Sweden. Stetin is fituated on an eminence on the well fide of the river Oder, in 14 degrees 58 minutes of taft longitude, and 53 degrees 27 minutes of north latitude, forty miles fouth of the Baltic, and feventy north-eaft of Berlin. It is a large' populous, and trading city, regularly fortified and defended by a caftlc, formerly the palace of the ancient dukes of Pomerania, and eftccmcd an elegant piece of architedlure. In the year 1713, the king of PruiTia prevailed on the citizens to fulTcr his troops to garrifon the town, under pretence of defending it againft the Ruflians, and engaging to hold it by way of fcqueftration, till a peace fhould be concluded. The Swedes, not knowing how to recover it, ceded it, upon fome confideration, to the king of Pruflia, with the adjarejit territory; an acquifition of the greateft im- portance to that prince, as he now commands the navigation of the Oder, and has a communication with the Baltic. [EuRcM'rc. Stralfund is Aiuatcd on the fhorc of the Baltic, in q degrees 12 minutes call longitude, and 45 degrees 5 minutes north latitude, eighty miles nurtliwelt of jicrin. Standing in a morafs, and well fortified, it is flrong both by nature and art, and has a good har- bour for veflcls under two hundred tun^, Oppofite to this city, lies the ifland of Rugun, one of ilu' largclt in the Baltic. It was anciently Joined to tlie conti- nent, but is now feparatcd by a channel near three miles in breadth. The ifland Is twenty-three miles long, and fifteen broad, and is a pkntiful country, abounding in corn and cattle. The chief town is Bergen, The marquifate of Brandenburg has on the north Pomerania and JVlecklcnburg i on the ejft, Poland; on the fouth, Sayoiiy Proper; and on the vv;.'ft, Brtinf- wick and Lunenburg, extending two hundied mile* in length, and between fifty and a hundred in breadth. The air of jhis country is cold, the winters long, and the foil for the mofl part a barren land ; but tliey have large flock* of fheep, with plenty of venifon and other gai;ne. I'hough the climate be too cold for wine, they make a four fort, which is hardly drinkable. They have fome mines of copper, and iron, but of no great value. The chief rivers are the Llbe, the Oder, the Havel, the Spree, and the Waria, Here arc alfo canals made for the convenience of trude; by one of which they have a cumuiunicaiion with the Havel and the I^lbe, and coiifequently with the ocean ; and by another with the Oder, which opens a com- munication v'ith the Baltic. There are likcwife in the country fcvcral lakes, of which one of the largeft is Ukerfee. This marquifate is diftinguifhed into three divifions, namely Altmark, Newmark, and Middlemark. 7'he chief towns of the former are, 1. Stendal, the capital of the diyifion, fituatcd on the river Ucht, which falls into Angermund, at the confluence of the Anger and the Elbe. The moft fruitful part of the country is the divifioa of Newmark, the chief town of which is Cuftrin, fituated on the river Oder, near the mouth of the VVarta. The divifion of Middlemark is fituated in the centre of the marquifate, between the rivers Oder and Llbe, The chief towns are, 1. Brandenburg, lying in the middle of a bog on the river Havel, which runs through it. This town is twenty-fix miles weft of Berlin, and was once the capital city of the marquifate. 2. Berlin, at picfent the capital of the PrufTian domi- nions, is fituate in 13 degrees 37 minutes of caft longi- tude, and in 52 degrees 53 minutes of north latitude, on the river Spree, ninety miles north of Drcfdcn. This city has been greaily improved within thcfe fifty or fixty years in its trade and buildings. From the river Spree canals have been cut to the Ider on the eaft, and to the Elbe on the weft; by which means the city has a communication bpth with the Baltic fca and the German ocean. 3. Potzdam, fituate on the river Havel, ten miles fouth-weft of Berlin. T he king of PrufTia has here a palace, which is now his ufual v.. ill cci of it jr- to ;C(t iti- rc8 Ics fyi ii (?//^. (LWr/A//^ // a f/f'f>/'fi/f//f //f/ ^ /'/^8 . /' Cpper Saxony.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. to9 ufual rcfidrnce. 4. Frankfort upon the river OJer, forty niilc.i cad of llcrlin. This is a large well- built town, and cnjoyi a llouiifhiiig trade, having a com- munication with the Ihltic by the Oder, and with the Spree and Havel by canals. Hete the king hai creflcd an univrrfity for Calvinilts, Ik-rlin has been computed to be near one third ai large as London, yet it contaitis not above one eighth part of the inhabitants, which is more, by upwarda of twenty thoufand, than is fuppofcd to have been the number at the occefltun of the prcfent Icing of Pruffia. This wife monarch, by the privileges and encourage- ment which he has granted to manufacturers of various kinds, has induced many indullrious foreigners to fettle in the capital, where a confiderable trade is now eftabliOied. They male woollen cloth fufficient for the army, and great part of home confumptionj Silefia exports linen all over Europe, and to America; and hardly any where can gold and filvcr lace, or wrought fllks, be purchafed fo cheap as at Berlin. The number of troops ufually in the p»y of the king of Pruflia, is about a hundred and twenty thou- fand, two thirds of which, according to the eftabllfli- ment, fliould be compofed of foreignen. This cir- cumdance, however, joined to the finall number of inhabitants in the PruHian dooiinioni, mud render it difficult to recruit the army in any war with the neigh- bouring nations. The pay of a common foldler In this country is eight groch (fourteen pence) 1 week, befides bread ; and of this fum three pence is fuppofed to go in waih- ing, and materiitis for cleaning their arms, for which they are fu much diftinguiflied. Upon this calcu- lation, a hundred and twenty thouftnd men coft only three hundred and fixty-four thouflnd pounds; fo that if'we reckon thrice the fum, in order to include their ammunition bread, the pay of officers, and cloath- ing, the whole will not much exceed a million fter- ling. The revenues of the king of PruHia about the be- ginning of the laft war, were eflimated at one million four hundred thoufand pounds; but by the improve- inent of commerce, and the acceOion of the Polilh territory, they muft now be much more confiderable. Thofe revenues arife from a tax of about half the rent of the land, and near forty ptr cent, on all eatables, foap, candles, &c. Notwithftanding this opprcfTive im- port, fuch is the regularity that runs through every branch of the government, and particularly the parfi- mony of the court, that the people, if not flourilh- ing, are at lead contented; and their property is guarded by a fyftem of laws, the mod plain, deter- minate, and equitable, of any nation in Europe, About a mile from Berlin (lands Charlottcnburg, founded by the firft king of Pruffia, and now iiniihed by the prel'ent in a moll exquifite talle. On an eminence in the neighbourhood is fituated Sans Souci, which commands an agreeable view, and feems to have been intended as a fummer-houl'e and library to the palace of Potzdam. The apartments are for the mod part on the ground-floor, and ele- gantly (inilhed. No. 18. The king of Pruflia is likewife rovelvlgn of feveril other territoriei, particularly the duchy of Magdeburg^ which is bounded on the north by Mecklenburg, on the eaft by a part of Brandenburg, on the fouth by the principalities of Anhalt and Halbcrdadt, and on the wed by Brunfwick. It is flxty miles long, and thirty broad, and has the river Elbe running through it. The revenues of this duchy are computed at « hundred thoufand pounds ptr annum. I'he capital city is Magdeburg, anciently Partbenopolis, fituated on the Elbe, feveniy miles wed of Berlin. Before (he Reformation it was an archbilboprick, independent 'Of any ceclefiaftical fuperior but the pope ; on which account (his prelate was ftyled primate of all Germany. The cathedral ij a grand edifice of Gothic architeAurej and contained forty-nine magnificent altars. Th« high altar, yet remaining, is a table of jafper ftone^ eighteen foot long, eight broad, and two inches thick, valued at two ti|M of gold. Among other relics ar« (hewn, a piece «if tbe watering-pots, in which, they tell us, Chtift ittnVdrted the water into wine; a wooden flipper of the Virgin Mary ; and the bafon m which Pilate walked his hands. Here Luther had his educa* tion, in the convent of St. Aoftin. This city was once remarkable for the tilts ai. 1 tournaments irrlituted by the cii'ueror Henry, furnamed the Fowler, in tht yetc 638 ; to which none but thd ancient nobility were admined, nor even thofe without feme redridlions. With fo much emulation were thofe exereifes celebrated, that at one tournament, in 1473* feventeen gentlemen of Franconia, and nine of Heflir, were killed in the field, befides great numbers lamed z:id wounded. On account of fimilar niifchiefs, of which the tilts and tournaments were frequently pro- duAive, they were at length aboliOied. In the religious: wars of Germany isetween the pro- teftants and papids, count Tilly, the catholic or im- perial general, took the city of Magdeburg by ftorm, and mitflacred all the inhabitants that Were Lutherans, to the number of forty thoufand ; demolifhing at the fame tithe ill the houfcs and public buildings, except the cathedral. The adjacent duchy of Halberftadt Is alfo fubjeA to the Pruflian crown. This country is bounded on the north by the duchies of Magdeburg and Brunfwick, on the ead by Saxony Proper, on the fouth by the principality of Anhalt, and on the wed by the bilhoprick of Hilderfliiem; being thirty -fix miles long, and twenty- five broad. The chief town, Halbcrdadt, fiands on the rivulet of Hotheim, thirty miles fouth-weft of Magdeburg, This duchy is one of the mod fruitful parts of the king of Pruilia's dominions. The fouth divifion of this circle comprehends chiefly the dominions of the eleflor of Saxc.iy, viz. the duchy of Saxony, the marquifates of M.ifnia or Miflein, and Voightland, with the terr'iories of the other princes of the houfe of Saxony, the principality of Anhalt^ and the county of Barbay, The capital of the duchy of SaXony is Wittenburg, fituate on the river Elbe, fifty-five miles north of Drcfdcn. Bautzen, capital of the marquifate of Lu- fatia, dands on the river Spree, thirty-five miles north- F f f eaft :[: J ':.|| ( ♦,,|a 'I? SIO U MODERN [Europe. till of Drerdeni »nil Gorlim, in tl.c fjmtf marquifati;, jUndi on the river NiclVe, Titty iinlcn i-M uf Drcldcn. Drefdfii, capital ot' the nKir(]uiriic oT Mil'iiu anii of the electorate of Saxony, Is litujte in 13 drgrecs 40 minutes ead longitude, and in 51 degries 12 minutea of north latitude, on rhe river J^lbc, fcveiity- five miles north-well of Prag'ie, and eighty-Avt fouth nf Berlin, It is dlvilcd by the Elite into I'-erniany, and proporlion.ilily pojiuloui. It it alio the feat of a fluurifliing univcrfay, and the Lutheran is here t!ie ellablilhed religion, as well as at Drcldcn. The territory of Mifnia includes many other towns of confidcuble note, where the inhabitants are cni|)l<)ycj on the general manufucluics of the province, which ais chiefly linen, lace, and porrelain. The duchy of Saxony, to which the deflorate is the old and new towns, which are joined by a ! annexed is a fmall tcrritury, bounded on the north by fine (lone bridge, confilting cl eighteen archcj. The | Brandenburg, on the cafl by Lulatia, on the fouth by ciiy Hards on .' plain, fjrruur.ded with hi^h Tandy ' Alifnia, and on the well by Anhalt. It i« by natur-.* hills, which hive been converted into vlneyaids, but the richeft country in Germany, if not in Europe, the frui' is mil much commcnilcu. It is well fortified, | It contains two hundred and ten walled towns, lixiy- and the buildings elegant, but tue (Ireets are ^en.:rally 'e market towns, and near three thoufand villages, narrow. The delator's palace is a magnificent (true- I Ihc annual revenue is computed at upwards of one lure, and abounds in many valuable curioHties both million three hundred and fifty thoufand pounds Her- of ii.ituic and art. The collcilicn of pictures is I ling, The chief town is Wittenburg, on the Elbe, reckoned one of the fined in the world, and is valued 1 Aft/ fve miles north of Drefden; but the latter is the .t fix hundred thoufand pounds. | rcfidcnce of the elefloral family. The cle£)or of Above feven hundred men are here condantly em- i Saxony is great matflial of the empire of Germany, ployed in ths porcelain manufaiflure, the annual expence of which is ellimated at no niure than eighty thoufand crowns , and the inanufai5lurc yields to the king two hundred thoufand crowns yearly, bcTides the magnificent and is TuppoTcd capable of bringin"; into the field twenty- five thoufand men. To the e'eilor of Saxony belong likcwiTe the nnr- puifatoof LuTatia, and Voi;;lul.ind, with that of MiTnia prefenti which he oecafionally m.tcs, and the large ! or Meiflcn. The latter is a fruitful country, producing I quantity referved fur the uTc of hi. houfchold. The other mofl confiderable article of trad.r is filver, of whlth the mines near Fridbiirg produce every fifteen days near the value of twenty thoufand dollars. The metal is brought into the city in ingots, where it is immediately coined, and delivered to the proprietors. The court of Drefden is one of the mod remarkable in Europe lur fplendor and profufion. Six thoufand five hundred ducats arc yearly allowed for comfits, and fuch aiticlci, which is n ar twice as much as the kingof Pruflia allows fur the wh jle expence of his table. The revrnnts of the eledtor arc efiimated at about one million five hundred and Tcventy-fix thouTand pounds, which «riTe from the taxes on Lindi, and a capi- tation of fix dollars on all males, as foon as they commence an apprenticefhip, or begin to work. People of a higher rank arc taxed according to their clafs, and are liable to be called to- account, if they QfTunie not an exterior appearance corrcTpondent tc ti. tt exient of their fortune. Every foreigner pays capi- tation, after refiding fix months in the country. Jews arc taxed at fifty, their wives at thirty, and their children at twenty dollars. There is alTo an exciTe on all eat- ables and liquor;: and ten per cent, is levied out of the incomes of the people. Leipfic is lltuated in 12 degrees 55 minutes cart lon- gitude, and in 51 degrees 20 minutes of north latitude, on the river Pleifs, forty-two miles north- weft of Drefden. The city it fmall, but the bui'dings are lofty and elegant. The ftreets .■'re clean and com- modious, and the market-places two fquarcs of con- fiderable extent. The town \s furrounded with nume- rous gardens, which are in general laid out in good ta.. J. The wealth of this city coiififts chiefly in wool ; befdes which the inhabitants hr.ve feveral profitable manufaifiures, particularly painted cloths in imitation of tapcllry. It is one of the sni^H trading towns in 6 I corn and wine, and is well Tupplicd with wood and water, having alTo in the hills rich mines. The capital city is DrcTden. The landgravatc of Thuringia is bounded on the north by the duchy of Brunfwick and the principality of Anhali, on the caft by Mifnia, on the fouth by Franconia, and on the weft by Hcfle, It is about feventy-five miles in length, and as much in breadth; fertile, abounding with fruits and woods, and well watered with rivers. It is fubjedl to the elcflor of Mentz, and fcveril other petty fovereigns. The chief town i» Erford, ^, CHAP, III, '] Circle oj Lower Saxony, ' I "'HE circle of Lower Saxony is bounded on the ■^ north by Denmark, the German fea, and the Baltic; on the eaft and fouth by Upper Saxony; and on the weft by Weftphalia ; comprehending the duchie* of Ilolflein, Mecklenburg, Lawcnburg, l^remen, Ver- den, Brunfwick - Lunenburg, Brunfwick - VVolfem- buttle, the biftiop.ick of Hildefheim, and the duchies of Magdeburg and Halberdadt, of which the two latter have been already mentioned. The duchy of Holftein is bounded on the north by Kefwic; on the caft by the Baltic Tea, and the duchy oT Sax-Lawenburg; on the Touth by the river Elbe, which Teparates it from Bremen and Lunenburg; and on the weft by the German fea. It is about a hundred miles long, and fifty broad ; a pleafant fruitful country, and extremely well fituatcj for trade. The king of Denmark, and the duke of Holftein Gottorp, have a joint dominion in great pnrt of it; and of fome towns and territories, each is refpeiftivcly the f.le foverc'gn. There are alTo Tome imperial cities and Tovercign ftatcs, which arc governed by their own mat,iftrates. The Lower Saxonv.] GENERAL TBAVET. LER. til ' The chief of the litter ii (Innburg, fltuate in lo degreea of cad longitude, and 5J di-grecj 41 minutes of north latitude. It Hands on the north (Ulc uf the Elbe, partly on iHjndi, and partly on the continent, fiventy miles north-eall of the (iciman ocean. The tide flows through the channels that feparatc the illands ; and the town lies fa luw, th.it in fpring tides they receive great Jjoiage in their lioufes. The ftrccts arc fp.)ciuus, and the houRs, which arc built of brick, are very high, and have a mii;^nificent appearance. The city is naturally (hong, and lilccwife induftrioully fortified. It is excrcding popuioun, merchants from all parts of Kurope refortni^ liithorj whence their gdods are fent into the tniJdlc of tlu- empire by the Kibe. All forts of provifions are here in great plenty) and their beer has fuch a reputation, ihut the export of it is very confideralilf. Ships coino up to the doors to deliver and take in tliclr laJin;;; the tide flows iixtcen miles a'l'ive the town. Tlie teriitory is fmall, but contains I'uiue beautiful villas and gardens. There arc alio feveral conliderable iflandi which belong to Hamburg. The m.iglDrates conAd of four burgomaflers or mayors, twenty fcoplns or aldermen, twelve common-council -men or fcnators ; and uy1 ice where lie ufu.illy ie< lidei, which ii at the diAancc uf four milci from th( city. The duchy of Mecklenburg is bounded on the north by the lialticj on the ealt by Pomcrania ; on th« fouth by Ilrandenbiirgi and on the welt by the duchiei ofHulftcin, Luncnbuig, and Lawciiburgi being .ibouC a hundred miles long, and fixty bro.ul. 'I'br air is unhealthy, and in the winter cold; but the country ii fruitful, well waicred, and advantagccully fiiuatcd for a foreign trade. It was anciently iiihabif.-d by tha Vandals. This duchy is fubieo.t tu two branches of the houfe of Mecklenburg, namely, b'trclilz, and Schwcrin, the later of whom puflcflcs the part of tlie country called Mecklenburg I'loper. The chief tou^ns arc, 1. Gullrow, a fortified city, which became fuhjcdt to the duke uf Mecklci'burg- Schwetin, upon the extinction of the line of Guftrow, in 1695. '• Roduck, fltuate on a bay of the Baltic, tvN'cnty-fix miles call of Wifmar. This is an imperial city, or fovcreign Hate, and took its name of Roitocle from a red pillar, anrientiv worlhipped by the inhabit tants, ,. Grabou, fituated twenty miles fouth of Schwerin. Wifmar is (ituatcd on a bay of the Baltic, twelve miles north of Schwerin. It was formerly one of the chief hanfe-towns, being the ftation of their men of war; but the Swedes making thcmfeives niaftcrs of the place, during the civil wars of Germany, it was con- firmed to them by the treaty of Wedphalia. Being atterwards taken by the Danes and their allies, it wa* reftored to Sweden by the peace of 1720; with pro- vifion that the fortifications fhould be demulifhed. Schwerin, the capital of the duchy, is fituated on an extenfive lake, called the Schwerin fca, twenty-two miles fouth of the Baltic. It was formerly a bifhop's fee, but fecularized by the treaty of VVeftphalia, and being converted into a principality, was allotted to Adolph Frederic, duke of Mecklenburg. The duchy of Lunenburg, including Zell, is I bounded on the north by the river Elbe, which feparatej it from Holltein and Lawenburg ; on the ealt by the marquifate of Brandenburg; on the fouth by the duchy of Brunfwick; and on the wed by Bremen and Weftplialia ; extending in length about a hundred miles, and in breadth feventy. Part of it is a barren territory, full of bogs and morafles, and part of it is covered with forefts; but near the banks of the rivers the land is in many places fertile. As it abounds in wild hogs, deer, and other venifon, the German nobi- lity refort hither to hunt in the feafon. The duchies of Lunenburg and Zell, on the death of George William, the laft duke, in 1705, devolved on the ciedrefs of Hanover, his only daughter, and are now defcended to his prcfent majefty. Thechief towns are Lunenburg, Zell, and Harburg, Lunenburg is fltuate in 10 degrees 40 minutes of cad longitude, and in 53 degrees 38 minutes north latitude; on the river Ilmcnow, forty-five miles north of Zell, and thirty-live f«uth«ea(l of Hamburg. The figure I fll THE M O P E R N [EuROPfi figurt of the (own is oblong, ind the circumference ■bout two milcii the flreeit broad, ind the houfci pretty wtll built. Near the city are fait fprings, where great quatuitiei of fait are made) and this maiiu- faflurc not only aft'ordi employment to many of the inhabitanti, but a connJerablc revenue to the fove- feign. Zcll ii fltuate it the confluence of the riven Aller •nd Kuhfe, forty-fcven milei foulh-weft of Lunenburg. This was the ufual rcfidence of the late duke of Zell, and the courts of juftice for both thofe duchies arc commonly held in this city. Hatburg is a pore-town, on the fuuth fide of the liver Elbe, oppofite to Hamburg, and thirty-feven miles north-wed of Lunenburg. It is well fituated for trade, but on account of the vicinity of Ham- burg, is far lefi confiderable than it otlierwife might be. The duchies of Bremen and Ferden, or Verden, have the Elbe on the north, Lunenburg on the fouth- eaO, and the German fea and the Wefcr on the north- wed j extending about fixty miles in length, and forty in breadth. This country was formerly fubjeA to Sweden, but conquered by Denmark, and transferred by that crown to the ele£lor of Hanover, for a valuable confideration, in 1716. The chief towns arc, Bremen, Ferden, Stade, Boxthudc, and Rottenburg. Bremen is fituatc on the river Wefer, feventy miles north-weft of Zell, and the fame uiftance fouth«weft of Hamburg. It is well fortified ; and what renders it alinod inacceflible to an enemy, is, that the adjacent country may be laid under water. Jt is a port-town, the moft conAderable for trade of any in Germany, next to Hamburg. But large veflels are obliged to unload fix miles below it, on account of the fands in the river. It was one of the hanfe-tuwns, and is dill an imperial city or fovereijrn date, governed by its own magiflratcs. Ferden, or Verden, is fituate on the river Aller, twenty-fix miles fouth-eaft of Bremen. It is but a little town, and has a very fmall territory about it. This, as well as Bremen, was the fee of a bifhop, before it was fccularized in 1648. Stade lies on the fouth 'iJe of the Elbe, with which it has a communication, twenty-two miles wed of Hamburg. It is defended by a fort at the ccn- fluence of the Zucnga and Elbe, which form a good harbour for large (hips ; and fo advantageous is its fituation for trade, thai °.ii time it may rival the mod flourifhing city in Germany. Boxthudc dands near the banks of the Elbe, in a fruitful country, fifteen miles wid of Hamburg, which it fupplies with great part of its provifions. The duchy of Hanover or Calemberg, including Grubcnhagen, is bounded on the north by the duchy of Zell} on the cad by Brunfwick Proper, and the biflioprick of Hildeflicim; and on the fouth and wed by the landgravate of HefTe, and Wedphalia; being about eighty miles in length, and near forty in breadth, in the fouth of Grubenhagen; but Hanover, in the north, is not more than twelve miles broad. The country is inuch over-run with wood, and the foil not fruitful) on which account, nniwilhdanJinj in favourable fituation fur cumniercc, it cnjuy* not a flourifliing trade. The chief articles arc, limber, cattle, hogs, and fomc minerals, vit. t little f^lver, copper, lead, iron, vitiiul, biimftune, quickfilver, and copperas I with mum, beer, and bicon. Hanover, the capital of the duchy, is fituate in 9 degrees 45 minutes of cad longitude, and in j2 degrees 31 minutu of north latitude} on the river Lcyna, fixteen mile« wed of Brunfwick. It is furroundcd by a wall and other works ol no great flrength, and the buildingt arc generally mean, The bed edifice is the Roman . Catholick church, which wai adigncd to the papids, on the advancement of the family of H.inover to an deflorate of the empire. The eleflor alfo ai^reed to admit in his dominions an apudolical vicar from the pope. The palace, though not magniliceni, is com- modious, and the appearance of a court is condantly kept, as if the fovereign were prefcnt. A French comedy is performed three times a week, to which the public 1 admitted gratis; and frequently there are concerts, balls, and aficmblies. I'he fituation of the town is agreeable, and there are feveial pleafant feati in the neighbourhood. The ufual rcfidence of his late majedy was at the palace of Hercnhaufen, a diort way didant from the capital. The gardens at this place are much admired, and the waterworks confidered as equal, if not fuperior, to any thing of the kind in Europe. Another of the chief towns in the elcAorate i* Gottingen, fltuated alfo on the Lcyna, in the province of Grubenhagen, about fifty miles fouth of the capital. King George II. ere£led here an univerfity, which i* a few years became fo flourlfhing, under the roy4 patronage, as to rival every inditution of that kind in the empire, and continues to be in great reputation for the dudy ef the fciences. The elcAor is abfolutc here, as in his other Germaa dominions. His revenues are computed at four hundred thoufand pounds a year, and he is able to raife thirty thoufand men in all his territories, which, befide* Hanover, confid of the duchies of Lunenburg and Zell, Bremen and Verden, with the duchy of Lawen* bergi theeleiSlor of Hanover is hereditary arch-treafurer of the empire, and is ufually dyled fovereign of Brunf* wick-Lunenburg. The duchy of Brunfwick-Wolfembuttle is bounded on the north by Zell, on the ead by Magdeburg and Halberdadt, on the fouth by Hede-Caflel, and on the wcil by Hildeflieim and Hanover; being about forty miles in length, and nearly the fame in breadth. The chief towns are Brunfwick, Wolfembuttlc, HelmAat, and Bisnkenberg. Brunfwick, the capital of the duchy, is fituate on the river Ocker, thirty-five miles ead of Hanover* and thirty miles fouth of Zell. It was formerly one of the hanfe-towns, and an imperial city, governed by its own magidrates ; but now the duke of Brunfwick is an abfolute fovereign. The town is of a fquare form, about two miles In circumference; the private houfes well built, and the duke's palace and the dadt<^ houie magnificent. The city ia rich and populous, I I cnjoy- Di( Wmtpiialia.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. »«J enjoying • conndcrablt (radc) and the goudi they export are chiidy hidet, butler, and mum, WollVmhuttlc ii alfo fitu^tvd on the OL!.fr, ten milri louih of Krunfwick, Being furruuMdiJ by l>ogi and mor.ifl'ci, it ii (trong by nature ai well at art. The duicc'i p.il«ce here i» a noble building, and hai • library which contain! near a hundred and thirty thoufand volitmci, IK'Imdadc is fituate four niiiei ea(l of Wulfembuitlt, •nd filieen milei fuuth-eafl of BrunlWick. Her* ii an univcrniy, founded and endowed by Juliui, duke of Brunfwick Wuircmbuillc, the rciflur of which hai the title ot count |Mliiine, The revenues of the Juke of Brunfwick>Wulfcm- buttle are computed to imounc to three hundred thuu- ruiiil pound] a ye.ir. He ii .ible to raife fcvcral thou- iind iiK'n, and ii nf ilic Lutheran religion. The biftioprick of Hildefheim ii furroundcd by the territories of H.iiuwer and Brunfwick-Wdlfembuttle, beiiif; thirty miles in length, and ahnoll ai much in breadth. The cipital, which be.irs the fjinc name, lies feventecii miles fuuth-call of Hanover. It in an imperial city governed by iti own magillratct, the biftiop having little icmpnral authority either hcrr, ;>r in the territories belonging to it. The inhabitants confiil both of Luthcrani and Papilla. '"' ' CHAP. IV. ' ' Cin/i tf IFfJl^l'idia, ' I '' H E circle of Wcftph-ilia is bounJcd on the * north hy the German ocean ; on the eaft by the circle of flower Saxony i on the fouih by the landgravaie of Hedl', the palatinate of the Rhine, and the electorate of 'Iriers; and on the well by the Netherlandsj being two hundred miles in length, and from a hundred and fifty to two hundred miles in breadth. The north part of the circle is generally an open level country, cither a dry, barren (and, or con- firti of lakes and morafles, which, with its northern iituation, render it exccflircly cold in the winter; but in the fouthern parts, the air is much milder, and the foil more fertile. 'J'hc chief rivers are, the Rhine, the Maes, the VVefer, the Ems, the Roer, the Lippc, jinothcr Roer, the Aa, and the Hunt. The divifions or provinces comprehended in the circle of Wellphalia are, the bifhopricks of Liege, Munfter, Paderborn, and Ofiiaburgj the duchies of Wellphalia, Clevcs, Juliers and Berg; the counties of Minden, Mark, Ravenfburg, Schawenburg, Haye, Diepholt, Oldenburg, Delmonhurif, EmbJen, Bcii- theiin, Tccklenburg, Lippc, Pyrmont, Lingen, and Steinfortj Corbey Abbey, and the imperial tovvns, which arc fo many (bvereign ll.ites. The bilhojiriek of Liege is bounded on the weft and north by Brabant; on the caft by the dijchy of Limburt^, from which it is feparated by the rivjr Macs; and on the fouth by the duchy of Lurtemburg, and Namiir. It is feventy miles in length fvom north • to foiith, an.l its breadth between twenty-fiv/e and fifty miles. The air is temperate and healthful, and the No i8. foil ftriite, abounding in corn-li«|ili, meadowi, tnd pallure groundi. I'here are alfu fome mines of lead and iron, and t|uarriei of maible; but it ii mo ft con - fidcrable fur the great quanlitiei of brimftone and vitriol which it produce*, a* well ii mineral waieri, particularly near the Spa. It it computed that thcrt ar* in the bifhoprick twenty-four walled towns, and four hundred villages, bcfidcs a great number of abb«yi and convciiin. The bifhop, who ii fovereign, ii one of the moll confiJcr.ible ccclefuAical princes in Ger- many, Hii yearly revenue amountt to three hundred thoufand ducati, or nobles; and he is able to maintain a body of eight thoufand men, without opprefling hi* fubjeiits, who are generally Roman Caiholicki. 'I'he chief towns are, Liege, Tongers, Huy, Di- nant, Buillion, and Spa. Liege, the capital, is fituate in 5 degrees 40 minutes of call longitude, and in 50 degrees 36 minutes of north latitude I on the river Maes, twelve miles fouth of Maeftricht. It is a populous and rich city, about four miles in circumference, Two bra..ches of the Macs, and other rivulets or canals run through feveral of the ftreets, and form lit'le illandt. No city in Germany can equal it in fine churches and convents. Of the former there is not lefs than a hundred; and a multitude of nionafteries, which are fo pleafantly fituatcd, and have fuch endowments, that the city ii fomctimes called the paradife of ccclefiaftici. Hero is ail univerflty of great fame ; and among the religiout houfes one of Ln^^lifh nuns. The fortilicuiions of the town are not Itrong, and are commanded by the neighbouring hills ; but the citadel is capable of mai> ing a good defence. The magiftraies of Liege pretend that it is an imperial city, or fovereign (late; but this claim is not acknowledged by the bifliop, whoexercifea abfolutc power here, as well as in the adjacent terri* tory. He is elected by the fixiy major canonj, who are generally of noble extradlion. The tra.'- if this city is chiefly with Holland, whither they exportv down the Maes, great quantities of iron, Done, chalky &c. bringing in return, herrings, cheefe, butter, and all forts of grocery. The common women here are employed in the moft laborious fervices; they draw the boats up the river indead of horfes ; they dig, faw, and carry all kinds of heavy burdens, and are for the moft part naked, 1'ongers lies on the river Jecker, ten miles north- 'A'cft of Liege. This was a noted town in the time of the Romans. It was made a biflioprick at an early period; and when taken by Attila, the Hun, it con- tained a hundred churches, which he deftroyed. Upon its decline, the fee was removed to Maeftricht, and afterwards to Liege. Huy, or Hugum, is fituate on the eaft fide of the Macs, fifteen miles fouth weft of Liege, In ancient times it alfo was a place of great note, and at prefent a ftrong fortrefs. Dinant is fituate on the river Maefe, twelve miles louth of Namur. Bouillon lies on the river Semoy, thirty miles fouth of Dinant. It is a fortified town, and with a fmall territory annexed to it, gives the title of duke to the G g g bifliop " f I' -■ II-. •' 214 THE MOD R N [EUROPK, biOiop of Lifgt. One of the dukes of this place was the famous Godfrey, who for his conduct and courage in the crufade, in the eleventh century, was made the firft Chriftian king of Jerufalem, Spa, or Spaw, is fituate feventeen miles fouth-cad of Lieg^, in a bottom furrounded with hills. This place has betn celebi'ated for its mineral waters fincc the time of the Romans, and company rcforts hither from every nation in £urope, both for health and plenCare. Befides the t6Wns already mentioned, Franchcmont, Bntchlocn, St. Tron, and Meyrick, ate alio places of fom'- note. The duchv of VVeftphalia is fituate between the birtiiiprick of Paderborn on the north, and the territory of Wateravia on the fuuth. It is much encumbered with mountains and forefts, and has been annexed, by purchafe, to the archbiflioprick of Cologn. One of the chief towns is Aren/berg, pleafantly fituatcd on the R>)er, fifty miles north-eaft of Cologn. Near it is a fini- t.'-flle, where the ele£tor of Cologn fre- quently refides. The town of Werle flands between the Roer and the Lippej and here the fuprcme courts of juftice are held. Another of the moft confiderable is Gd'eck, a fortified town, fituated twenty- five miles norih-eaft of Arenfterg. The biflioprick of Munftcr, lyin'j on both fides of the river Ems, is bounded on the north by the counties of Bentheim and Sleinfurt j on the eaft by the bifhop. ricks of Ofnaburg and Padcrborn ; on the fouth by the county of Mark ; and on the weft by the duchies of Clecve and Zutphen ; being a hundred and twenty miles long, and eighty broad. It is a barren country, producing hardly corn enough for the fubfiftence of the inhabitants, but abounds Witk the beft bacon in Europe. The city of Munfter, the capital of the biflioprick, and of the circle b( Weftphalia, is fituate in 7 degrees 10 minutes of caft longitude, and in 52 degrees north latitude; on the river Aa, in the moft fruitful part of the country, feventy miles north-eaft of Cologn, and thirty-five louth-weft of Ofnaburg. The town is well tvuitt Of free ftone. Here was concluded tho; treaty. In 16+S, which pot an end to the religious w?rs of Germany, and fettled the pretenfions of many princes both in the empire and other parts of Europe; fome- times called the treaty of Munfter, from the city, ynd fometimes that of Weftphalia, from the province in Which it was concluded. In the year 1533, John- xif Leyden, a uylor by profcflion, and a fanatic, drove away the bilhop and magiftrates, snd made himfcif maftcr of the city; but it was taken from him in 1536, after a ficge of fourteen months, and he was tortured to death, MunftcT was an imperial city, or fovcreign ftale, till the year 1661, when it was fubdued by the biftiop, under the jurifdiiiion of whofe fucceftbrs it has hnce remained, with an annual revenue amounting nearly to a hundred and fifty thoufand pounds. The bifhoprick of Padcrborn is bounded on the tlorth by the county of 'Lippe, on the eaft bv the clrclt of Lower Saxony, on the fouth by that of the Upper Rhine, and on the weft by the duchy of Weft- phalia } being about forty miles long, and twenty broad. This is a barren province, remarkable chiefly for its fait fprings and other waters, as weli as its iron and lead mines. One of thofe fprinj.^s difjppcars twice in twenty- foul- hours, and returns with fuch violence that it moves fcvcral mills near its fource. The other principal commodities of the country are badun and venifon. Padcrborn, the chief town of the biftioprick, it fituated thirty miles north-weft of Caflcl, and fifty fouth>eaft of Munller. It is a populous town, of confiderable extent, well built and fortified, Thil was anciently an imperial city, or fovereign ftate ; but is now fubje£l to its bifliop both in fpirituals and trmpoials; and the eftablilhed religion ii the Roman Catholic. Thi- territory of Corbey Abbey lies between the river Wefer on the caft, and the biflioprick of Padtr- born on the weft ; being about fixtecn miles long, and eight broad. The chief town is Corbey, where the abbey ftands; befides which, here is Hoxter, a handfomc town, fituate on the bank of the Wefer, five miles fouth of the abbey. This territory is fubjefl to the abbot, who is a prince of the empire. The biflioprick of Ofnaburg is bounded on the north by the territory of Dicpholt; on (he eaft by the county of Minden; and on the fouth and weft by the counties of Steinfort and "fnthcim; being .ibout forty miles long, and thirty broad, and one of the moft fruitful countries in the circle of Weftphalia. This biflioprick, with the territories belonging to it, is held alternately by a proteftant and papift, the nomination of the proteftant biftiop being vefted in the family of Hanover, The prefent bifliop is his royal highnefs prince Frederick, fecond fon of his majcfty, who derive* from the biflioprick a confiderable revenue. This was the firft biflioprick founded by Charlemagne, who dedi- cated the cathedral to St. Peter and the two martyrs Crifpin and Crifpianus, exempting the fee from all fervice and homage to the emperor, or any other prince or ftate. Ofnaburg, the capital, is fituate on the river Oufe, In a fine plain. In It are fonie grand buildings; and the churches are divided between the proteftants and papifts, the latter beii.g poflefi'ed of the cathedral, and the church and moniiftery of the Dominicans. Both pruteftants and papifts have votes at the eleAion of their magiftrates. This town is faid to produce the beft beer and bread in Weftphalia. The chief manu- facture is the linens called Ofnaburgs, a great deal i>f which is exported, as well as Weftphalia hams. The other towns of note in this biflioprick are, Ibxrg, Quakcnburg, Vordc, Kauftenade, Whitlag, and Mclo. T.he (lii'chy of Jiilicrs is bounded on the north by the diichie:! of Clecve and Gcldcrj on the eaft by Cologn; o.n the fouth by the palatinate; and on the weft by the Nethcilaads. It is fixty miles long, and thirty broad, abounding In corn and pafture grounds, with gou i neut cattle, and an excellent breed of horfes. It produces alfo great quantities of wood, for dying. This <> Westphalia.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 2'5 Th!i duchy is fubje£l to the elector palatine. The chief town JuJiers ftands on the Roer, twenty-fevcn milei eaft of Maeftricht, and ai many weft of Cologn. It is a fmall fortified town, defended by a caftle, in which was the palace of the ancient dulccs. This place was anciently called Juliacum, and according to tradition, built by Julius Ccfar, Aix-la-Chapel)e, or Akcn, is fituated in a low valley, encompafli^d with hills of a gradual afccnt, twenty-two miles north-eaft of Liege, and thirty miles weft of Cologn. It is an imperial city, or fovereign ftate, and is faid to have been founded in the year 53, by Severus Granus, a Roman prince, brother to the emperors Nc ^i^d Agrippa; who being baniflied Rome, chofe this place for his refidcnce, «n account of the hot fprings. It was alfu the favourite leftdence of Charlemagne, who built in it the magnificent church of St. Mary, or Notre Dnmc, being of an OiStagonal iigure, but ufiial'y called the rucundo. He afterwards furnifhed it with the mofc valuable relics that could be procured in the Holy Land ; calling himfelf a canon of it, and orduining that all future emperors fliould likewife be inveftcd with the fame office. The memory of this prince is held in great veneration by tlie inhabitants of Aix, and in honour of him they celebrate an annual fcftival on the 14th of January, which is called the fcaft of St. Charles, when they carry his image about the town, in lolemn procefllon, for the people to adore. The relics that were purchafed by Charlemagne are depofited in a part of the church, i>llot:ed for that purpofe. Un high feOivals the priefls exhibit fomc- times one, and fometimes another of them; but once in feven years all the relics are carried up to the tower, and thence difplayed tr the people for fifteen days fucceiBvely, bcginni.ig on the 10th of July. On this occafion many thoufands- of bigottcd perfons refort hither from all parts of Germany, and the fpec- tators univerfally kneel while the relics are exhibit- ing. This city is governed by its own magiftrates, of whom there are fifteen, who annually choofe out of their body eight echevcns by ballot, the latter electing likewife from among themfelvcs two burgomafters. The burgomafters of the preceding year fit in court, and aft in conjunction with thofe in office. There is likewife a lown-bailifF or mayor, who has cognizance in military affairs, paiTes, 2(c. and who is named by the eledtor Palatine, as duke of Juliers, The ftreet containing the baths is very regular and handfome, with trees planted before the houfes. The great pump is placed under a piazza, behind which are feveral walks for the rompany. The royal baths are within a court, on the oppofile fide of the fame ftreet; and there arc alfo cold baths adjoining. Several houfes have been ercftcd for the accommodaiion of the company; and they have rooms for alTemblics, gaming tables, &c, in the mannffi of thofe at Bath, but much inferior in elegance. The trade of Aix is very inconfiderable, the in- habitants, as in moft towns of plealure, being more addi&ed to diffipation than induftry. There ate, how- 2 ever, a few dealers in cloth, gloves, and ftockingsj but the greateft manufacture is that of needles, in which branch no lefs than five hundred perfuns ara conftaatly employed. Several kings of the Romans, aiu! many emperors have been crowned at Aix-la-Chapclle, at which fo- lemnity the relics above-mentioned were expofed to view; as they likewife arc at the coronation of an emperor, wherever the ceremony is performed. Ths eleflor of Mentz, as chancellor of the empire, fends a fummons to the magiftrates of Ai.x to appear in perfon, or by their deputies, and bring thofe relics with them to Francfort, or any other place he appoints for the coronation. Ouren is fituate on the Roer, ten miles fouth of Juliers. This is a fmall town, well built, with canals or rivukts running through the flreets. Among the relics in the church of St. IWartin, they fhew the head of St. Anne, mother of the Virgin Mary, to which great numbers of pilgrims ufed to refort. This was formerly an independent flate, but is now fubje^ to the eledtur palatine. The other towns in this duchy are, Muniter-Eifelt, Emlcirchcn, Nidec, Boiflar, Linnicb, Dalen, Wefenfberg, Sittard, Tudder, and Safleren. The duchy of Berg is bounded on the north by the county of Mark; on the eafl by the duchy of Weft- phalia; and on the fouth and weft by the Rhine, which feparates it from the eleftoratc of Cologn; extending along the eaftern bank of the Rhine above forty miles, but is not in any part twenty miles broad. It confifls chiefly of rocky barren hills, and is neither fruitful nor populous. The principal town of this duchy is DulTchlorp, pleafantly feated near the Rhine, twenty- five miles north of Cologn, and fix fouth of Kcyferwaert; re- ceiving its name from its fituation near the confluence of the Rhine, with the little river DufTel. The town is of confiderable extent, well built, and forti- fied ; and the ele£tor palatine, who is fovereign of the duchy, has here a palace, in which he frequently refides. The chi:f trade of the place confifts in tranf- porting from Holland corn and feveral commodities, to Cologn, and other towns in Germany. The town of ElTen, lying fifteen miles north-eaft of DufTeldorp, is noted for a magnificent nunnery, inhabited by noble ladies, who are allowed to marry, and leave the convent when they pleafc. The other moft confiderable towns in this country are, Beniberg, Solingen, and Wipperford. The duchy of Cleves is bounded on the eafl by the territories of Munfter; on the fouth by Juliers; and on the north and weft, by Zutphen and Brabant} being about forty miles long, and twenty- five broad. It is a mountainous woody country, and the foil gene- rally barren ; but there are fome fertile valleys. It was the Clivia of the Romans, who gave it this name from the fteep rocks and mountains with which it abounds. Cleves, the capital of the duchy, ftands near the weft bank of the Rhine, ten miles diftant from Nime- guen, towards the fame c^uarter. It is a fmall, but popu- m II ^i ii6 II MODERN populous city, defended by a caftle, which is how- ever not conftderabie for ftrength. The other towns in this duchy are Embriclc, Gunnep, Wefel, Reel, Roertort, Duifberg, Grift, Gortz, Culcar, Santen, fiuric, Alphen, Orfoi, and Dinftulcen. The inha- bitants confift chiefly of Papifts and Calvinifts; and the king of Pruflia, as duke of Clcves, is abfolute fovereign of the country. The county of Mark is fituated between the rivers Rocr and Lippe. It is about forty miles long, and twenty broad, and is one of the moft fruitful countries in the circle of Weftphalin, llkewife fubjcfl to the king of Pruflia. The capital of the county is Ham, lying on the river Lippe, twenty-two miles fouth of Munfter. Another of the towns is Saeft, twenty- fix miles fouth uf Munfter; an imperial city, and one of the largeft in Weftphalia. Bcfidcs thofe, the remaining towns of note are, "' ina, Altcna, and Werden. The county of Ravcnfburg is fituated between the county of Lippe on the caCt, and the biflioprick of Munfter on the weft. It is a mountainous barren country, and alfo fubjcd to the king of Pruflia. The chief town is Bilevclt, feven miles fruni which ftands Hcrfurt, or HervoriJen, plcafantly fituated at the con- fluence of the Aa and the VVchre. In this town is a tnagnificent nunnery, the abbefs of which is a princefs of the empire, and fends her deputy to the diet or aflembly of the ftates. Since the king of Pruflia has become fovereign of this country, thofe nuns have profefTed themfelvcs protcftants of the fcdt of Calvin. The duchy of Mindcn is fituated between the coun- ties of Hoy and Lippe, extending about twenty- five miles in length, and twenty i.T breadth, for the moft part arable land, and abounding in corn. Mindcn, the capital city, v.as a biHioprick before the reformation, but is now fccularized ; and, with the territory belonging to it, is fubjcft to the king of Pruflia. Near th;s place, the French were def.-atcd by the allied army, under prince Ferdinand of Brunf- wick, on the ift of Au7ufr, 1759. The county of Hoy is fituate between Minden on the fouth, and the duchy of Bremen on the north. It was fubjeift to its own counts till the death of Otho, the lad count, in 1582, when it defcended to the houfes of Hanover and Lunenburg. The greater part now belongs to his Britannic majcfty, and the remainder is the property of the count of Bentheim. The chief town of the Hanoverian divifion Is Hoy, fituate on the eaft fide of the Wcfcr. The other towns of any note are, Stolzenow, Nycnburg, Ucht, Frendenburg, Frcnburg, Sierk, Shcgerburg, Depenaw, Burenburg, Lavenhaw, and Bruckhaufcn, Diepholt is a fniall county, fouth of Delmcnhurft, fubjefl alfo to his Britannic mnjcfty, as eleflor of Han- over. The chief town, Diepholt, lies on the Dum- mcrlake, twenty-five miles weft of Hoy. The county of Lippe, belonging to the count of that name, is fituated lictween the territories of Hanover, and the duchy of Weftphalia, being about thirty miles long, and ten broad. The chief town Is Diethmold, twelve miles north-caft of Pailctboni. Another of 4 [Europe. the towns is Lippe, fituated on the river of the fame name, twenty miles weft of Paderborn, Here is a confiderable trade in timber and planks for (hip-build- ing. The town of Hern is fuppofed to be the place where the Jlomans under Varus received a fif;nal de- feat, and were driven over the Rhine and Danube, which were for fome hundred years afterwards con- fidered as the boundaries of the Roman empire. Be- tween Lemguw and Hertfurt, lies the ti wn of UfFen, where are fait fprings which atFord a great manufafiutc of that commodity. ) Pyrmont county is annexed to the county of Lippe. The chief town is Pyrmont, celebrated fur its exceU lent mineral waters. The county of Uitburg is alfo annexed to that of Lippe, The chief town, which bears the fame name, is fituate near the head of the river Ems, ten miles weft of Lippe. The county of Schawenburg is bounded on three fides by the territories of Hanover, and on the weft by the duchy of Minden. It is about thirty miles long, and fixieen broad; confifting both of good arable and pafturc grounds, well watered by the VVefer and other ftreams, and a great lake named the Steinhadderfee. It produces fait, timber, coals, alum, chalk, and free-ftone. Part of this territory is fubjeft to the count de Lippe, and part to the landgrave of Hefle. The moft confpicuous place is the old fortrefs of Schawenburg, ftanding on a high hill on the caft fide of the Wefer. The others of greatcft note are, Buck- holt, Stathagen, Oldendorf, and Saxonhagcn. South-weft of Ofnaburg, lies Teckleiiburg, about fixteen miles long, and eight broad, fubjc£t to the count of Bentheim. The capital, which bears the fame name, is a town of confiderable extent. The county of Steinfort lies north of Munfter. It is about twelve miles long, and fix broad. The chief town, Steinfort, is fituated on the river Aa, fifteen miles north-weft of Munfter. This territory is now fubjedt to the count of Bentheim. The county of Linguen is fituated between Ofna- burg on the eaft, and Bentheim on the weft; being about fifteen miles long, and ten broad. The chief town is Linguen, ftanding on the v< Ems, forty miles north of Munfter. The bifliop of Munfter is fovereign of the county, but the king of Pruflia has claimed the town. The county of Bentheim, which lies north of Stein- fort, is about forty miles long, and ten broad ; having fur its capital a town of the fame name, fituated in the middle of a foreft, thirty miles north-weft of Munfter. This is the property of the count of Ben- theim. The county of Embden, frequently denominated Eaft Fricfland, lies on the German ocean, with the county of Oldenburg on the eaft, and Groningen, cnc of the United Provinces, on the weftj being part of the country of the ancient Frizons. A great part of it is covered with lake? and morallesi and haidly any either well cultivated, or fruitful. Its fituation, how- ever, is remarkably advantageous for foreign trafiic ; on which account, it was claimed by the king of Pruflia, who, in order to encreafe his maritime power, took Upper Rhine.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 217 took pofleflion of it on the death of tlie former pro- prietor. Embden, the capital, is fituate on the Dullart Bay, near the mouth of the river Ems, twenty-five miles eaft of Groiiingcn, and fixty weft of Bremen. This was formerly confiJcred as an imperial city, or fuve- reign ftatc, under the proteiSlion of the Dutch, who ufed to ftalinn a guard-fhip at the mouth of the Dollart Bay J but lincc it was fcized by the Icing of Pruilia, the Hollanders have been obliged to relinquifh this mark of prerogative. Here is a good harbour, and the place has acquired a confiderable trade under the aufpices of the Prufliaa monarch. C H A P. V. Circle cf the Upper Rhine, ' I " H E countries which conftitutcd the circle of •■■ thi: Upp.r Rhine, being now under the domi- nion of the French, except Hcflc, only this comes properly within a defcription of the empire. Hcfle, comprehending the landgravates of Hefle- Cad'el, Hede-Marpurg, Hefle-Darniftadt, Hcfle-Rhine- feld, and Wettcravia, is bounded on the north by Paderborn and the territories of Hanover ; on the fouth caft by Franconia; and on the fouth-weft by the biiliopricks cf Mentz and Triers, and the palati- nate of the Rhine. It is about a hundred miles in length, ai.j almoft as much in breadth. The moft confiderable trafl of this country, efpccially towards the north, is the property of the landgrave of Hefl'e- Cafl'el. A great part of it is not very fruitful, nnd much of it under forcft. The plains, however, are covered witn flocks uf fhcep, the wool of wliich is reputed very fine ; and in the mountains are mines of lead and copper. Cafiil, the capital of the landgravate, is fituate in 9 degrees 20 minules of eaft longitude, and in ^i degrees 20 minutes of north latitude; in a fpacious plain, on the river Fulde, forty-five miles north-eaft of Marpurg. The houfes of this city are built of wood, but the ftrccts are wide, and the market- places cxtcnfii'c. It contains four churches, and has a briik trade for wool and woollen manufaiTlures. The cal'tle or pnlace of the landgrave ftands without the town, and is ftrongly fortified. Darmftadt, the capital of the divifion called Hcfie- Darniftadt, is fituate ten miles eaft oi' the Rhine, and is a well built town, though not of confiderable ex- tent. The landgrave's palace, in prirticular, is a magnificent edifice. Marpurg, another of the mofc eminent towns in this circle, is pleafantly fituate on the river I.hon, forty miles fouth weft of CalTtl. It is a ftitificd town, defended by a caftle, and here is alfo one (f the bcft univerfities in Germany. The fovereij;ii of the pl.ice is the landi;ravc of Hcire-Cafll- , Catzenclebogcn is a fmall town, capital of a county of the ('.line name, and lies on the bank of the Rhine, twenty miles north- weft of Mentz. The property of it was long difputed by the houfes of HelTe and Naflau j but at length was ceded to the former. No. tS. Smalcald is fituate fifty miles fouth-eafl of Caflel. It is a well built town, and has a good trade, efpcci- ally in hard-ware, having iron mines in the neighbour- hood. At this place the proteftant princes and ftates of Germany entered into a league for their defence, and compelled the catholics to confent to a toleration of the reformed religion. Schwalback is fituate ten miles north of Mentz, and is famous for its baths, to which 'here is annually a great refort of company in the feafcn. In one of the fprings the water feems to boil, though fo cold as to be ufed by the people in the neighbourhood for allaying the warmth of their wines. The other moft confpicuous towns arc, Rottenburg, Hamburg, and Alsfeld, The county of VValdeck is bounded on the north by the bifhoprick of Paderborn, and on the weft by the territories of Cologn; being twenty-four miles long, and nearly as much in breadth, fubjeA to the count of that name, The chief town, VValdeck, is fituate on a high hill, twenty miles fouth-weft of Henb-Caflil, The territory of the abbey of Hirchfeld lies fouth of Caflel, and is about twelve miles in length, and nearly as much in breadth. The convent, which gives name to the town, was efteemed an elegant building; but this, with the annexed territory, has been converted into a lay fee; and the landgrave of Hefle-Cafli:! is both fovereign and proprietor of it. Southward of Hirchfeld is fituate the abbey of Fuld, the territories of which arc about thirty miles in length, and more than half as much in breadth. This abbey is endowed with great privileges, the abbot being not only a prince of the empire, but primate of the abbeys in Germany, depending immediately on the pope. The great church here, dedicated to St. Boniface, is a magnificent ftrudlurc. Proceeding to Wettcravia, in the fouthern part of Hcfll", we come to the county of Solms, lying fouth- weft of the territories of Marpurg, The chief town is Solms; but the count ufually refides at the caftle of Brunfwick, about fifteen miles to the fouthward, Wetzlur, an imperial city, ftands on the river Lhon, twenty-eight miles north of Frankfort, It is a fove- reign ftate, governed by its own magiftrates ; and the imperial chamber was removed hither from Spire in the year 1698, Fifteen miles fouth of Wetzlar, lies Friedburg, alfo an imperial city. It is a rich trading place, and has been the refidence of fume of the German emperors. The county of Hanau is bounded on the north b^ the territories of Heftii-Caflel; on the eaft by thofe of the abbey of Fuld ; on the fouth by the river Maine, and the territories of Mentz; and on the weft by the county of Nafliiu ; being about forty miles in length, and fifteen in breadth, fubjedl to its count, who is at prefent landgrave of Hefle-Caflel. The chief town, Hanau, is pleafantly fituated on the river Cantz, thirteen miles eaft of Frankfort. The town is well built and fortified, and has a bride trade. H h h fiudin- m i'tiif Til ^'!l I i':|^ i rtl il ul|..(.| jti8 H E M O D E R N [!•; tOPE. Budingen, capital of a fmall county, fituate twenty hiilei north-eafi: of Krnnkf.irt, is a large ciiy, and has a fine caftic belonging to it. Gclnhaufcn is an imperial city, lying twelve miles north-eaft of Hanau, The county of Naflaii is bounded on the north by Weftphalia, on the call by the county of Solms, on the fouth by the territories of Meniz, and on the weft by the eleftoratc of Treves or Triers. The capital bears the fame name, and flnnds on the rivcr Lhon, twenty- nine miles north>wcU of Mcntz. Dictz is fituatc alfo on the rivcr Lhon, and in the fame county, twenty miles north of Mcntz, and is fubjed to the prince of Naflau-Dillcmburg. Hadimar ftanJs twenty miles north of Mentz, and gives title to another branch of the houfe of NalTau. Wifbaden, fituatcd five miles north of Mcntz, is tiiftinjiuifhcd for its excellent baths. populous, but not a pl.ice ot llrcnjth. and laid to have been built by Diufus, thcie being lure the ruins of a trophy creeled to his memory. 'J"he flricts arc narrow, and the privaie houl'cs nicTU ; but ihc public buildings are magnificent. The univtifiiy was founded by Charlemagne, in the year Soc. 'I Lis ciiy claims the difcovery of gun-powder and the invcntiun of printing ; but both have been dil'puicd. Bingcn is fituate at the confluence of the Rhine and Nalce, fixtcen miles weft of Meniz, ai;d was anciently a Roman fortrefs. The Rhinegav/, which is a narrow trafl tf l.md, e.Ntcnding twenty miles along the bii^k cf the E.liiiic, contains fo great a number of toun-, ir.teiinixt with gard. ns and vineyards, as to have the ajipearanee of one continued city. At the town of Erl>ach is a grand monaflcry, where are the tombs of the old counts of NalTau, and of the archbifhops of Mentz ; and Uodc- Frankfort Hands on both fides of the rivcr Maine, fheim is remarkable for fome of the bed vines upon the eighteen miles call of Mcntz, and liftcen weft of I Rhine, Hachot is fituate on the river Akinc, at Hanau, It is a lar^r pnpulous city of no great ftrcngth, ! which place the cuftom- houfe officers, belonging tj the but has a brifk tiaje, being advaiitngcoudy fituatcd j eledor, receive the duties of all noudi that arc carried near the confluence of the Maine and the Rhine. The flreets are fpacious, and the houfes built of a red ftone. It is an imperial city, governed by its own magiftrates; and here the emperor is ufually eledlcd and crowned. In the ftadt-houfe, where the eledlors aflcmble on the choice of an emperor, is kept the golden bull, or flatute, containing the rights and privileges of the princes, ana other fubjecfs of the empire, which the emperor fwears to obferve on his acceflion. There are here fome convents, and the cathedral is in the hands of the Roman Catholicka ; but they are not permitted to make any proceflinns through the town, the magiftrates and moft of the inhabitants ■being Lutherans. Many protcllants fled hither from England, during the pcrfccution raifcd againft them in the reign of queen Mary. Rhincfeld is fituatc fixtcen miles north-weft of Mentz, and is fubjciS to the landgrave of HelTe- Rhinefeld, of which territory it is the capital. up or down that river. Hefides Mentz, the clcclor has other cxtenfivc terri- tories in Thuringia, Wetteravia, tl c pahalinte, and county of VValdeck, His revenues arc coinpiacd at upwards of a hundred thoufand pcunds a yc.;r. The eleiStoratc of Triers is bounded on the north by the eled^orate of Cologn, and the duchy ol Juliers j on the eaft by the teriitories of Mentz and Wetteravia; on the fouth by the palatinate of tlie Rhine and Lor- rain ; and on the weft by the Netherlands. It is about a hundred miles long, and from twcnjy to fifiy broad. The fouth and wcflern parts of the country are mountainous and woody ; but near the rivers Rhine and Mofelle it is pleal'ant and fruiiful, abounding in corn and wine, and exceeding populous. Triers, the capital city, ftands on the Mofelle, fixty miles fouth of Cologn, and as many weft of Mentz. Having been much cxpof.d to the ravages of war, it is neither large nor populous, but is one of the moft CHAP. Circle cf tic Lower VI. Rl/uie. The other towns of any note in this circle are ] ancient cities in the empire, and has been the nfidcnce Wildenburg, Corbach, Kyenbur;;, Hamelburg, Bruckc- j of fevcral emperors. It was the Augufta Trevirorura nau, Huneld, Hazfeld, Fritzlar, Frankcnburg, &c. of the Romans. Coblentz is the ''econd city in the cledlorate, and ftands at the conflu'.nce of the Rhine and Mofelle, fifty miles north-caft if Triers. It is of a triangular figure, one fide wafhed by the Rhine, another by the ^r^HE circle of the Lower Rhine comprehends i Mofelle, and the third, towards the land, deferdcd •*- the thfcc archbifhopricks and eledlorates of . by a wall and out-works. The ftrcets are regular, Mentz, Triers, and Cologn, with the Palatinate of I and the houfcf well built. The principal edifice is the Rhine, the bifliopricks of Spire and Worms, and the elcflor's palace, which ftnnds e,n the bank of the feveral imperial cities, with their refpeflive territories. ! Rhine, and upon the hill :.bove it, is a c.iftlc. The The deflorate of Mentz is bounded on the north \ city is populous, and has a fiourifhing trade, particu- arly in co.n, wine, wood, and irim. by Wetteravia; on the eaft by Helle-Darmftadt ; on the fouth by the palatinate of the Rhine j and on the wefl by- the electorate of Tiicrs; being about fifty miles long, and twenty broad. Mentz, or Mayence, the capital city, ftaiuls at the confluence of the rivers Rhine atid Maine, twenty miles weft of Frankfort, and twenty-five north of \Vo4-ms. It is large and Fifteen miles weftward of Coblentz, on the Mofelle, ftands the town of Meyn, w):i''h is defended by a wall and caftle, and com.viin catcs its name to a large terri- tory. At Berneca'tle, fituate on the Mofelle, great quantities of winr arc. m-dc; as are likewife at Cell, which is fituate on ihe fame river, thirty miles norih- eaft ri'ory, Lower R.hine.] geJ^eral traveller. 21^ eaft of Triers. The other mod confiJcrablc towns are Engers, Obcrwcfal, Sarbru;;, Moiitroyal, CocheirTi, Safiich, Bopart, Ulmin, St. Maxainiii, I'halis, Wit- lich, and Prum The eledloriitc of Cologn, which is the nioft northerly ilivifMii of this circle, is a long narrow ter- ri'ory, lying on the wcftern bank of the Rhine, near fifiy miles in lepijth, and about ten in breadth. It is bounded on the north by the duchy of Cleves ; on the «(} by the Rhine, which feparatcs it from the duchy of Berg i on the fuuth by Triers; and en the wcfl by the duchy of Juliers, and th? Netherlands. It abounds in mod of the ncceflaries of life, particularly corn, cattle, and wine; but the latter is not fo good as in the more fouthcrn countries. The capital of the cleiStorate is Cologn, fituated on the Rhine, fixty-two miles north of Triers, and forty-five eaft of Macflricht, This is one of the largefl and nioft elegant cities of Germany, and carries on an extcnfive trade. It is alfo an imperial city, but partly fubjeft to the jurifdiclion of th ?lc£bor, who has the appointment of fome of the ni;i2;irtratcs, as well as the chief juflice in criminal caiil'es ; and his concurrence is neccflary in the enabling of all laws. The tledlor, however, can levy no taxes on ihc citizens without their confcnt. Mo!i of the in- habitants are Roman Catholicksj but fome of the principal merchants and tradefmen are Lutherans, and allowed a church. This privilege is denied to the Calvinifls, who have no place of worfliip nearer than Mulhcim, which is diftant two miles. Here arc eleven collcg'ite, nineteen parifli churches, bclidcs the cathedral, thirty chapels, twelve monafterics, and Mcntz to confecrale the emperor. His revenues arc conipLted to amount to a hundred and thirty thoufand pounds a year, 'I'hc ncxtdivifion of the circle of the Lower Rhine, is the Palatinate, bounded on the north by the arc!.* bifhopricks of Triers and Mtntz, on the eart by Frar.- conia, on the foulh by Sualiia, and on the weft ly the territories of Fr«nce and the Ketheilands. It is iibout a hundred miles long, and fixty bioad, denomi- nated the Palatinate of the Rhine, to diftinguilh it from that 'if Bavaria, In the temperature of the climate, aiid the ftnility of the foil, this country exceeds any in the empire. It abounds in corn, wine, cattle, (ifh, and game; and by the rivers Rhine and Necl:ar, the inhabitants can .naini..;n a traffic with mod parts of Germany and tlrj Nctherl.-.nds. The capital of the Palatinate is Heidelburg, fituate on the Neckar, forty five n.ilcs fouth of rraiik^ort. It coiifids chiefly of one fpaclous ftrect, and a com- modious market-place, of a quadrangular form. On every fide except the weft, the town is furrounded wiih hills, whence there is a delightful profpcd. On the a (tent of thcfe hills f.ood the elei5lor's palace, a grand edifice, which was moflly confumed by fire in 1764 i near which is a fort, called the Star Kort, one of the compleicd fortifications in Germany. Near the palace lies the celebrated vcfill, of fo prodigious a f;ze, as to contain eiyht hundred hogfiieads. It is fail! to have been gci.rrally kept full of P.hcnirtl v.'inc, which all were obliged to tallc of, that vifitcd the late elcdior's court. Here is an univcrfity, and the elcflor had formed one of the mod valuable libraries in Europe; but it was dedroyed, or removed lo the twenty nunneries. In the c:iihedral are three tombs, I Vatican, and the enipc.-or's library at Vienna, when faid to contain the fkulls of three kings, who came the elvflor was driven from his dominions in 1622. from the Eaft, toworfliip Chrift in his infancy, ufually 'The cjrcater pan of the inhabitants of this city called the three kings of Cologn. They are faid to j cniilids of protedants ; but the eledtor is a Roman have been fird brought to Conftantinoplc by Helen, i Ci;!iolick. the mother of Condantine; and being removed to 1 Manheim is fituate at the confluence of the Rhine Milan, were tranfported hither in 1164, when the and the Neckar, ten miles north-weft of Hcidelburg, emperor Frederick Barbarofi'a pofied'cd himfclf of that ; It is beautifully built, and as well fortified as any place. ' town in Germany. On account of a religious dif- In the church of St. Urfula is fiicwn the tonib of ' fcrcnce with fome of his fubjefls at Heidelburg, the of that faint, who, according to tradition, came over ! cleiStor built here a fine palace, to which he removed fiom Britain, to convert the infidel Germans, accom panied by eleven thoufand virgins, who all fudered martyrdom. From the great number of churclies and convents, and the multitude of rclicks here prefervcd. hij court. Philipfburg dands on the eaft bank of the Rhine, eighteen miles fouth-weU of Heidelburg. It is a drong town, furrounded by a morafs, and has been Cologn has obtained the name of the Holy City, frequently befieged by th^ French, when they invade the , The endowments of the cathedral and coll -giate 1 palatinate, as being the key of Germany on that fitffc.' churches are fo confiderablc, that many princes and j Spire is fiiuated on the weft fide of the Rhine, noblemen become canons and prebends of them, and | about fifteen miles from Heidelburg. It is an im- rcfije in fumptuous palaces furrounded with gardens • perial city, or fovereign date, governed by its own and vineyards. | magidrates. Before it was dellroyed by the French Th; city of Bon is fituate on the river Rhine, twelve 1 In 1688, one of the fupreme courts of the empire was miles above Cologn. The place is beautiful and well fortiiied, and here the eledlor ufually refides. The other moft noted towns in the elciloratc are Andernach, Reyferwacrt, Dettingen, Broel, Lintz, Nuys, Zous, Rhinebcrgh, Meurs, and Kcnipcn. The cledtor of Cologne is arch-chancellor of the held here, but afterwards removed to VVetzlar, in the didriif of \Vetteravia. This city !i the fee of a bifliop, fuft'ragan to the archbifhop of Mentz Wori.,o is fituated alfo on the weft fide of the Rhine, twenty, five miles north- weft of Heidelburg, and the fame uidance fouth of Mentz. This is an ancient empire for Italy, and has a right with the cleitor of | ami imperial city, governed by its own magidrates. I It> I < < >l $9» THE M O D I- R N [EuROPf ' ii Its territories "re about einht miles in length, and two in breadth, ver" fertile, and producing a great quantity of wine, Zweilbtuggen, or Dcuxpontt, fo named from the bridges over two little rivers on which it (lands, is fituate forty miles fouth-weft of Worms. The fur- rounding territory, about forty miles i. length, and tweniy in breadth, w.is fiibject to the crown of Swe- den till the death of Charles Xtl, in ■718, when it fell to a prince of the p^ilatiiic family. This duchy of Deuxponts contains the bailiw'""ks ot Zweilbruggcn, Meif itcim, Lichtcmbjrjr, Ncufchatcl, Laiidfperg, with part of Guttcnbirg and Bifchv.eilcr. Simcriii, capital of tlie duchy of Simerin, is fituate thirty-five miles eaft of Triers; having a confidcrablc territory about it, fubjeiil to its own prince The other moll reinarliable towns in the palatinate are BirkcnfelJ, Oppcalicim, Tracrb.icb, Oberflein, ! Altfheim, Keiflarlautcrn, Siiuflu-im, Spircbjch, Brutk- fal, VVeiblhdt, Akrip, Ncwlhdt, LlLilharach, Ebcrin- bcrg, Ladenberg, Lauterach, Lcniiwcn, Rhinegrave- flain, V'cldcntz, and Rcipulizkirlc. The cltdur palatine is fuvereign of the greater part of the Palatinate; of the dutliics of Newburg, Juliers, and IJcrg; the city of DulLlJorp, and lordfllip of Ravenft'.in. Me is dircftor of three circles, viz, the Lower Rl'.inc, jointly with the clcilor of Mcntz; the Upper Rhine, as prince of Simmcrcn, with the bilhop of Worms; and of Weftplialia, as duke of Juliers, alternately with the king of Pruflia, who is duke of Cleves. The revenues of the Palatinate arifc by a toll on all vcll'cls goin^ along the Rhine, Neckar, and other rivers; and from tlio duties on corn, wine, and other provifions ; the whole being cllimatcd at three hundred thoufa>',d pounds a year. The cleclor ufually keeps a body of fix or fcvcn thoufand men in time of peace; and in the late wars, maintained twelve thoufand regular forces many ycnrs. C H A P. VU. Cir.l't' of Friin;:nhi. TH E circle of Francoiiia is bounded on the rorth by MciTe and the circle of Upper Saxony; on the eaft by Ijolicmia; on the fouth by Davaria and Suabii; and on the well by the Palatinate of the Rhine, and the deflorate of Mcntz. It is about a hundred and thirty miles in length, and almolt as much in breadth. The country is intermixed with hills, val- leys, forefJs, and champain; and proJuccs corn and wine, but not in great plenty. It comprehends the bifhopricks of Warilburg, Jjanibcr^>-, and ArcbRadt; the duchy of Cobcrg; the marquifates of Cullenbach and Anfpach ; the territories of the mafler of the 1 Teutonic order; the diftricts of IJ.ircith, .Schwartzen- ; burg, HenneiburL', Wcrlhcim, and Hoenlach or Iloen- | lac, with feveral imperial cities. j The weftcrn part of this circle is the bidioprick of ' Wurdburg, the territories of which are upwards of two hundred miles in circumference, and the richeft of the whole divifion. Wurtfliurg, the cnpital of the bidioprick, and of all l-'ranconia, is fituate m 10 degrees 5 minutes of eaft longitude, and i 1 49 degrees 46 m'nutes of north latitude ; on both fides of the rivei- Maine, fixty miles eaft of Frankfort. Several branches of the Maine and olhtr rivulets run through the principal ftrccts. The bilhop's palace is on a hill above the town, and commands a moft de- lightful profpcil of the country. It is computed, that there arc, at lea<>, four hundred towns and vil- lages in his dominions. The bifhoprick of Bamberg is fixty miles Ion"-, and forty broad. Its capital, which bears the fame name, is fituatcd on the river Regnitz, forty-five miles north- eaft of Wurtfburg. 'i'hcre are ftveial other good towns in the bifhoprick; and the bifliop has cadles, royaltiea, and manors, in other parts of Cier- many, where the fovereign of Bohemia, and the tleiSlors of Brandenburg and Bavaria hold territories of him. The biihoprick of Aichftadt is fituatcd towards iha foulhern parts of the circle, and is about thirty miles long, and twelve broad. Aichftadt, the capital, ftands on the river Altmul, ten miles north of Neuburg, and fourteen north-weft of Ingoldftadt. Thofe three biftiops are princes of the empire, and members of the diet, or aflembly of the dates. The territories of the maftcr of the Teutonic order are but fmall. His chief town is Mergonthcim, or Mariendal, a fmall city, ftanding on the river 'l"auber< where the mafter has a palace. The Teutonic knights were a Dutch order, who undertook to defend tho Chriftian pi.'grims in the Holy Land, and adill in re* covering Jerufalem from the Saracens. When they were driven from Paleftiiie, and returned to Europe, the pope, according to the authority which he exercifcd in thofe times, gave them the territories of Piuffia, as the inhabitants of the country were then heathens. The duke of Pruflia continued grand-mafter till the Reformation; but becoming proteftant. another was appointed in his room, who is now the cleiflor of Cologn. The knights have eftatcs in almoft every popiQi country. Before any perfon can be admitted into this order, he is obliged to prove his nobility by father and mother for fifteen defcents. The marquifate of Cullembach lies in the north- caft part of the circle, about thirty-four miles long, and thirty broad. The capital is of the fame name, fituate on the river Maine, twenty-five miles eaft of Bamberg. The marquis is joint-dircflor of the circle of Franconia with the bifhop of Bamberg. Bareith territory is fi'uated fouth-caft of Cullem- bach ; being about forty miles long, and ten broad. The capital bears the fame name, and lies fifteen miles from Cullembach. Thofe two countries arc fubjeft to two branches of the houle of Brandenburg, who are each of them princes of the empire. The marquifate of Anfpach lies towards the fouth- weft of the circle, and is about fifty miles long, and twenty broad. The c.Tpital, Anfpach, is at the diftancc of twenty-five miles fouth-weft of Nurcmburg. This mar- ^^F c of the riirs il fier of This q cafilc tbcmfj txpe city, author inhiibi tr.tlc, rcgali; cular! fl-M|lfC I 111', p town in iir admir j'sp'jr tcys 'li<( riiHs Kvvinl L II fcj '/ h/ //• f>/ ///r f V//^a/. //ff^'/'/V/'/ ////• (fr ////a/ o/ f ////'//// of ihcrii adorned with fountains. The river Regnits ; riirs through the mi.ldlc of it, and turns a frrc.it nuni- ! tier of iron, corn, and j iper-ttiilli wiihiii tlic luivn. ' This city 'was the Noriturum Alons, fu naiiicj fjom a cafilc near it, built on a hill by the Ncrici, to dclL-nd ihcmfclves fiom the IIuiis, by whom they h.:d b.-en expelled from Aiiftria. Nuremburg is .-in imperial city, governed by its own magifrrates, the Ie^;;flative authority is lodged in four hundred of the principal inh:ibitants ; and the burgoni.iftcr, or chief magif- tr..tc, is changed every month, II. re are kept the regalia ufcd at the coronation of the emperor, p.irti- cularJy, Charlemagne's cnnvn, mantle, globe, fword, fti!(itcr, gild imperial cloak. Nurcmburi; is exceed- ing populous, and has the beft inland trade of any town in Europe. Their clock-work, and nianefaiSlures in iron, ficel. Ivory, wood, and alabaftcr, are much admired, and affjrded cxccedinjj chc.ip. 'f'hencc uf« exported nioft (if <||fff8 f))f«moi)itie3 called Dutch toys Jkfilis NiMCinburg, there are fonie oiIut inipe/i,i| fiiJB, wjihlii lU ||ittl»« Of ^mmm^ »i», Roumberg, «*li)(itii, Wnfl((#)ff), itwd WHifl'dfili.fg, No. ly. The margravate of Baden lies along the eaitern bank of the Rhine, oppofitc to Alfatia. l!.'.L,'.-n, the capital, is fituatc on a hill, five miles from the Rhine, twenty-five miles fouth of Heidelburg, and twenty north of Strslburg. This place is cekbiated for its numerous batiis, which arc remarkably hot, and f^roi.gly impregnated for the molt part with alum and fulphur. Dourlacli lies fifteen miles north of the city of Baden, and is fubjciH to the prince of Baden- Dourlach, a Lutheran, whole palace here is a magnificent ftruc- ture. Baden- VVeifler is fituate twelve miles north of Bafil, and gives title to a branch of the houfc of Baden. Here alfo ate hot baths, but not cqi-l to thofe laft mentioned. The tcrritoiy of the Brifgaw, which lies .ilong the eafl bank of the Rhine, between Furftenbuig and Alfacu, is fnbjea to the houfe of Auflria. The chief (own Is Pfil.urg, fituite at the entrance of the Black Foreft j and, being a frontier town, is ftrongly fortified. 7'cn miles weft of Friburg, on the caft bank of the Rhine, \Wi Brifac, another frontier town, well forti- fied. It is ufually called Old Brifac, to diftingui/h it \ -• • from I; .. 'run M n n K R M rr.. n A -TTTt" .lb w«.\.\'iaii Circk of Fraiiconhi. THE circle of Francoiiia is baumlcd on the north by HcfTe and the circle of Upper Saxony; on the caft by Bohemia; on the fouih by Bavaria and Suahii; and on the well by thcl'alatinate of the Rhine, and the ck-iftoratc of Mentz. It is about a hundred and thirty miles in length, and alnioll as much in breadth. The country is intermixed with hills, val- leys, furefts, and champain; and produces corn and wine, but not in great plenty. It comprehends the bifliopricks of Wurtiburg, Banibcrj, and Archftadt; the duchy of Cobcrg; the marquifates of Cullcnbach j and Anfpach ; the territories of the mafter of the I Teutonic order ; the diftriils of Barcith, Schwartzen- i burg, Henncrbur;.';, VVerlhcim, and Hocnlach or Hoen- | lac, with feveral imperial cities. | The weftern part of this circle is the bifhoprick of ' Wurifburg, the territories of which are upwards of | two hundred miles in circumference, and the richcft appointed in his room, who is now the eleflor of Cologn, The knights have eftatcs in almoft every popilh country. Before any perfon can be admitted into this order, he is obliged to prove his nobility by father and mother for fifteen dcfeents. The marquifate of Cullenibach lies in the north- eaft part of the circle, about thirty-four miles long, and thirty broad. The capital is of the fame name, fituatc on the liver Maine, twenty-five miles eaft of Bamberg. The marquis is joint-dirciSor of the circle of Franconia with the bifhop of Bamberg. Bareith territory is fituated fouth-eaft of Cullcm- bach ; being about forty miles long, and ten broad. The capital bears the fame name, and lies fifteen miles from Cullembach, Thofe two countries are fubjedt to two branches of the houle of Brandenburg, who are each of them princes of the empire. The marquifate of Anfpach lies towards the fouth- weft of the circle, and is about fifty miles long, and twenty broad. The capital, Anfpach, is at the diftance of twenty-five miles fouth-weft of Nuremburg. T'-ia mar- IW Fkanconm, &c.] general TRAVELLER. 221 r of very itted y by rth- ong, ime, ft of ircle lem- oad, lilcs >je£t who Jth- and ince PMs nar- marquifate is fubjefl to another branch of the houfe of Brandenbur;;, The county of flol.ich, or Hociilac, which is fitu- ated wiftwaid of Anfpjch, i5 about twenty- live miles long, and llftccn broaJ, and takes its nanic from a ca(Hc, the ufual refid.-nce of the count to whom it is fiibjfft. Hcnnrbiirj county is fituate between the circle of Upper Saxdiiy on the call, and the territories of l'"uld on ihe weft, having the bifhoprick of Wurtlburg on the fouih. The chief town is Hcnneburg, thirty-four eiiles north-weft of Danibcrg, and fuhjeft to the Count. The county of Werthcim lies wcftward of the biftioprirlc of \Vurtfbtirg, and is twcniy-fix miles long, and twelve broad. The capital, Werthcim, ftands ■t the confluence of the rivers Maine and Tauber, and is .-\ll'u fiibje^ft to its count. The duchy of Corburg lies between Upper Saxony on th north, and the bifhoprick of Bamb;rg on the fouth; its capital, Corburg, being fituated fcvcntcen miles north of the latter. In the callle of this town, Liiihcr the Reformer was iniprifoneJ fome tiine, for infulting his fuperiors. Schwartzenburg is a fmall territory, caft of Wurtf- burg, fubjedl to its own count. The territory of Nuremburg his the biftioprick of BaiTiberg on the north, with AithftaJc and Anfpach on the fouth. It is about thirty niil:s long, and twenty broad ; one of the moft barren cmntries in Germiny, but greatly enriclicd by the m.inufidlures of the capital The city of Nuremburg ftands n;nr the confluence of the rivers Regnits and Pegnits, fifty- five miles north-weft of Ratilbon, and forty miles fouth of Bamberg. It is about feven miles in circum- ference, fiirrouMcleJ by a w.ill and fornc aiititjue works, with a caftle ncnr itj but neither the town nor caftle is of gnat ftrength. The ftrects, fiiuarc;, ,TnJ market-places are fpacious and well built, and many of them adorned with fountains. The river Regnit! runs through the middle of it, and turns a great num- ber of iron, corn, and paper-mills wiihin the town. This city 'was the Noricurum Mons, fo named from a cafde near it, built on a hill by the Ncrici, to defend thcmfclves from the Huns, by whom they h.:d b.-en expelled from Auftria. Nuremburg is nn imperial city, governed by its own magiftraies, the le;:inative authority is lodged in four hundred of the principal inhabitants; and the burgomaftcr, or chief magif- trate, is changed every month. 11. re are kept the regalia ul'ed at the coronation of the emperor, parti- cularly, Charlemagne's erov.T, mantle, globe, fword, fccpter, and imperl-l ..loak. Nuremburg is exceed- ing populous, and has the beft inland trade of any town in Kuropc. Their clock- work, and manufaiSlures in iron, ftcel, ivory, wood, and aUioafter, arc much admireil, and afforded exceeding cheap. 'F'liencr are exported niofc of thofc commodities called Dutch toys Hefides Nuremburg, there are fome other imperial cities within the limits of Franconia, viz. Roicmberg, Swinfurt, Wcinfcheim, and VVcifl'enbcrg. No. 19. CHAP. VIII. Cireli tf Suab'ta. TpHE circle of Suabia is bounded on the north ^ by Franconia, and the palatinate of the Rhine} on the ciL^ by Bavaria j on the fouth by Switzerland! and on the weft by the Rhine, which feparatcj h from Alfacc : it is a hundred and thirty miles long, an.) a hundred and ten broad ; containing the duchy o. VVirtemberg, the margravate of Baden, the principa- lities of Howen-Zollcrn, OiSringcn, and Mindel- heim, the biftiopricks of Augfburg, Conftance, and Coire, with feveral abbeys, and free towns. The duchy of Wirtemburg is fituate in the northern pait of the circle, fixty-fivc miles long, and almoft as much in breadth. It is fubjccl to the duke of Wirtemburg, whnfe ufual refidcnce is at the capital, Stutgard, where he has an elegant palace. This town ft.inds on the ri' Neckar, forty-five miles north- weft of Ulm, a. ion ■ ilcj eaft of Baden} and is much refortcd o, 1 n . unt of its baths. Tubingen ; fo fm in the river Neckar, twenty miles fouth •' »^v tg.ir(i, as is likewife the city of Hailbron, ./ei fy.t' -ht miles north of Stutgard, and twenty-five loLt v-aft of Hcidclburg. It is an im- perial ciiv and famou'! for its excellent baths. The I ' /irtcmburg enjoys a temperate air, and a fruiilul toil, abounding in corn, wine, cattle, rich mines, and plenty of game in the forefts. It is computed that there are in this territory fixty cities, a hundred and fifty towns, almoft feven hundred vil- lages, and fourteen abbeys. The duke is ftandard- bearcr of the empire, and great huntfman. Thi» family had cmbr-^e.l the reformed religion, but is lately become Romin Catholic. The other branches of it are Wirtemburg-Neuftadt, Wirtemburg-y^Lls in Silcfia, and Wirt;mburg-Bernftadt. The mart^ravatt of Baden lies along the eaftern bank of the Rhine, oppofitc to Alfatia. B.-iden, the capital, is fituate on a hill, five miles from the Rhine, twenty-five miles fouth of Heidelburg, and twenty north of Strtilburg. This place is celebrated for its numerous baths, which are remarkably hot, and ftrongly impregnated for the moft part with alum and fulphur, Dourlach lies fifteen miles north of the city of B.iden, and is fubjeft to the prince of Baden- Dourlach, a Lutheran, whofe palace here is a magnificent ftruc- ture. Baden- Wciflcr is fituate twelve miles north of Bafil, and gives title to a branch of the houfe of Baden, Hers alfo are hot baths, but not equal to thofc laft mentioned. The territory of the Brifgaw, which lies along the eaft bank of the Rhine, between Furftenburg and Alface, is fubjciSl to the houfe of Auftria, The chief town is Frihurg, fituate at the entrance of the Black Forcft ; and, being a frontier town, is ftrongly fortified. 7"cn miles weft of P'riburg, on the eaft bank of the Rhine, lies Brifac, another frontier town, well forti- fied. It is ufually called Old Brifuc, to diftinguifh it I i i from >i'f 222 THE MODERN (I-UKOl'K. fit 1 j 11 I i w from a town which the French have creiHed in Alface, on the oppofite fiJe of the Rhine. BcfiJes thud', ihr hnufc u( Aiiflria polH-ncs fuiir (ofi\ town:, oil ihc lioiiiim of Swiizcrlaiul, viz, Khinu- feld, Seclciiigen, [.aulciiburg, and W.ild(hut, with the irrritoiy ut Conli.ince. CoiilKiiicc, the capital ut the laitcr, Hands un the fouth-well of a lake of the fainc name, eight milcj cart of Ulierlingen, and twelve well of Buraw, The town is plcafantly lituated, and though not larg", is populous, and a place of good trade, the inhabitanis exporting their merchandize by the lake and the Khin.:, both fouth and north. The biOiop of CoiiAance is a prince of th'^ empire, and one of the dirciflors of the circle of Suabia. At this place a council was called by the emperor Sigifmund, in 1414, to prevent a fchifm in the church; there being three popes who pretended to the chair at the fame lime. I'hey were all depufed, and Martin V. clciilcd. This council continued fitting four years, and was altcndc.l by four patriarchs, twenty-nine cardinals, three hundred and forty-fix archbilhops and bifliops, four hundred and fixty-four abbots .ind doiHors, .nnd ten thoufand l.Ltilar princcj and noblemen. It condemned Wi.kl.i'u'j doiflrines as heretical, ordering like\/ife his bones to be dug up and burnt, forty years after he was dead. Italfo burnt John llufs and Jerom of Prague for licrctitks, though thcv had the emperor's f.ifc-conduifl for tl.cir protection. On the fame lake (land Biichorn and Ratolfzcl, fulijccl likewifr to the houfe of Audria j with the city of Ubcrlingen, a rich trading place, and celebrated for its mineral water?. The margravate of Burgaw, on the frontiers of Bavaria, is alfo fubji.-»fl to the houfe of Auftria. It is thirty miles long, and nearly ihc fame broad. The principal towns arc Burgaw, ftanding on the river MinJcl, twenty miks weft of Augfburg; and tjuntf- burg, fituate on the Danube, eight milts north-weft of Burgaw. The houfe of Auftria llkcwife ponifles the land- gravaie of Ncllcniburg, lying nr.rth-wcft of ihe lake of Confiance. This territory is t Acnty-f^vin miles lonir, aud twelve broad ; its chief t nvii being Nellcm- burg, twelve miles north-weft of Uberlingcn. To the fame houfe pertains the county of Hohem- burg, or Hohcnzollern, lying tothceartvard ofFurftcn- burgi twenty four miles long, and twenty broad. The chief towns arc Hohcnburg, Rottcnburg, and Willen^en. The county alfo contains the three im- perial cities or fovcreign Hates of Ofunburg, or Ollen- gen, Zell, and Gongcnbach. The county of Furdcnburg lies on both fides of the Danube, near its fource, and is about feventy miles long, but not above a third fo much in breadth. The chief town, Furftcnburg, is fituated on the fouth fide of the D.\nubc, tv/enty miles north of SchafF- haufen. In this county lies the village of Tone- iiflingen, in wliitli is one of the fountains of the Danube. The whole territory is fubjccf to the count, who is a prince of the empire. Sultz, Ems, and Montfort, are three fmall counties lying on the caflcrn frontier of Swiczerland, having capitals of the famenamcj, and fulgcil to their uifce- tive counts, Waldburg county lies north-eaft of tlx lake of Conllance, It is twenty miles long, and a'louc eighteen broad, taking In name from the caltlc of VVeldburg, and Is fulijedl to its count. Koningzeck county lies wellwaid cf the preceding, and is fuhjcdl to the count, who is of the family of tho (iiuelphs. Kirklburg (lands upon the river Ifer, fouth of (ho territories of Ulni, It i. eighteen miles long, and eight broad, and is fubjci-t to its count, I'he principality ol Mindrlhcim is fituato between the bilhoprick of Auglburg and the .ibbacy cf Kemp- ten i being twenty milei long, and l'..\tccn broad. It was conferred on the great duke of Mailborough by iho emperor Leopold; bin the duke leaving 110 male ./Tue, it reverted to the emperor at his deaih. The principality of Oillingcn is fituated on the frontiers of Franconia. It is about thirty miles long, and eighteen broad. The chief towns are Odingcn, Nordlingen, Hochflct, and Blenheim ; the two latter of which arc celebrated for the viilories obtained by ihc allied army over the French. Gravencck county is fituatc between Iloenzollern on the well, and the territories of Ulm on the call, and is fubjeft to the count, who is a prince of tho empire. The chief towns arc Graveneck and Fg- lingen. The county of Lowcnftein lies upon the banks of the Neckar, and is fubjccl to its count, who is of the palatine family, and a prince of the empire, Augfburg Hands near the frontieis of Bavaria, at the confluence cf the rivers Lech and VVardour, in 10 degrees 58 minutes of eaft longitude, and in 48 degrees 24 minutes of north latitude. It was called Augufta Vindelicorum, from Auguftus Caifar, in whofc reign the Romans planted a colony here. It is a large, populous, well built city, adorned with fountains, and brazen ftatues of emperors and ancient heroes, and other valuable monuments of antiquity. The cathedral is a grand building, and the hofpitals exceed any thing of the kind, both in accommodation and endowments. That which was creiHed by the family of the Fuggars, lords of the neighbouring country, contains a hundred and fix houl'es, ranged in four Hreets that meet in the center, and are in- habited by poor people, who have pcnfions fettled upon them. Auglburg is an imperial city, or fovcreign ftate, the fenatc which poficlTes the executive power, confifts of twenty-three Papifts and twenty-two Pro- cefiants; and the common-council, which, with the fenate, has the legiflativc authority, of a hundred and fifty of each perfuafion. The people likewife confill chiefly of Lutherans and Papifts ; but the former are moft numerous. There is no place where a greater variety of habits may be fcen, which are fo regulated by the government, that every perfon's quality, trade, I or profelBon, is known by his drefs. The citi2>.ns I are efteemed excellent mechanicks, cfpecially the gold- fmiths and hardware-men. It was in this city that I the proteftant princes prcfeiited tlieir conftffion of I faith Bavaria.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. Hi faith to the emperor Charlei V. at a diet held in the year 15301 which occafioiK-d a civil war in the cinpi-c, of twenty years concinuanci.'. At u fuhfciiurnt diet, or aflumbly of the dates, in thii city, in 15 $5, it was agreed that the protelljnts in the empiru Ihould enjoy the free cxi-rcife of their reliijjion. Ulm, which 111 ly be reckoned the capital of Suabia, flandi at the confluence of the rivers Uanube and Illcr, thirty-lix miles weft of Auglburg, and ninety mlici fouth'WcIl of Kutilbon. It is an imperial city, tlie government of which is lodged in one and forty aldermen, defied out of the principal inhabitants. Twii bailifFs, who prcfide in their councils, arc chofcn annually, and tlie magillrates arc all I.uthrr.ins, as •re molt of the inhabitants. It ii a place of great trade, and the mechanicks arc reputed excellent, efpecially in clock-work, liy the Danube the people export to Havana and Aullria, their own produce, conlilling uf linen, cotton-cloth, and hard it U^t upuii the fiiiclt navigable iivcr in huropc. The city III i'jliau ii fituaie uboul nxty-lwu milci fuulh-caft ot Kai.fboii, ti the cunflutncr of the Danubr, Inn, !inil III, whikii illtfiilinj^ il into ihici' parli, ihiitari; united by briJgci, , nJ tuiin«iiL' bmutitul town. 'Ilie IcrtiKiry brlun^^ir^ u it liva thittly uii the nuitli fitle of lliv Dinubr, between the paluiinale i>( liuviiiia ;ind the Upper Aullria. 'I'lic luvcrcii^ii ol the cuui.lry la the biiliop. LaiiiJrhut fliinJa un the river Ilcr, thirty niilei foulh of Katifbun. It is u bciiutiful city, pleafintly fitua ed, •nil here the aniKiiiduki.'; of ll:u':iii.i had their lefidence, Freiliiii^Mi ll.inds on the river lier, tvviniy nii!e> north of Munich. It is a lar^e city, and the fee ot ■ bifhop, who 13 fuvereijn of the town, and furrouiid- ilH; ttriitorj'. The arihbifl.opriik of Salubiirrj has the duthy ot 13iv:iria on the north) Siiiia and the Upper Aultria on the ealt i and Carintliia and I'yrnl on the fuutli •nd well. It is about levcniy iniUs in Icngih, ami fixiy in breadth. 'i'lic ca|iiiai town, Salizhurg, i- fituale on the river Salt/, Il venty miles call of Munich. This Is eflccnicJ one uf the fined ciiiei In Germany, and ha., a good Ir.idf, clpccially tor fait, which is produced in the nelj^libuurhood. Here alio arc fume rii h minfj of I'llver, copper, and iron, The arch- billicp is fotrrelgii bcth of the city and territory) and lairly perfecutcd his pruteflant fubjeiits with extreme li-yur, Light miles fouth of Saltzburg, on the fame river, flands the town of Hall, where the falt-works employ a great number of people. It Is fald that in the year 1573, a human budy was found hcie in the rock-falt, fume hundred fathoms deep, with ihu tiefh, hair, and cluaihs entire, which from Iti antique.' drcfs was fup pofed to have remained in that fituaiiun Cevcral ages. VValdccIc Hands about fifty miles fouth-eall of Mu- nich, and a hundred Ibuth-wtll of Sahzburg, Tlie tieclor of IJavaria Is an abfulute fuviitlgn, and has a large revenue, aiifinf; not only from his demefne lands, but the tolls on the rivjrj, particul.irly the Danube; and from munopidics of fait, corn, and beer, which the fubjeds are obliged to purchafe of his agents. Though the country be in general fertile, thofc opprcflive monopolies render the inhabitants very poor, CHAP. X. Ciycli sf Anftria, I "■ H E circle of Auflria is bounded on the north ■*■ by lioliemia and Moravia ; on the eaft by Hun- gary, Sclavoiiia, and Croatia; on the fouth by th« territoiies ol Venice; and on the well by Bavaria. Jt coiiipithendi tin provinces of Auflria Proper, Styria, Cannthia, and C'.riiiola. It tcrmerly included the county of Tyio!, ai;d th: bifhopricks of 'I'rcnt and lirixen ) but thoii; are nov dctac-cd from it. This country one formed a part of 'liC great duchy or kiii;doin of Bavaria; but the tm.eror Oih-) ertflcd it into « diftin^t lindgravate, .uiJ cic«t«d hit fuii Albert the lirlt archduke of Auiliu, Vienna, the capital of tlu' ciicle of Aulli ia, and of the Cierm.in cnipiri, is lituatu in 16 dcj^rrci 20 niiiiutciof call longitude, and in 4S dcj^rcei 20 minutes uf iiDfth latitude. It lUndi on llie iivcr Daiiulic, a liiile abuvc the coiifluciuc of iIk- VVkii, The city, which IS well fotlificd, is not, withm the walls, nioro than three inilei In circumference) but the fuburbs are of much greater extent. It is built ul llune, and the lioules are five or fix iturici high with flat touts. The imperial family has here two large palaces, m winch are fcvcral grand upartincnts) but the buildings ar« ni'itbe,' unifuim nor elegant, nnr the fiiinitiire fo rich as might becxptiitid. The houiVs ut the nobility and great ufficeii of ftalc arc magnificent ilnnitiites. I'hc palace of the late prince kugonc, particularly. Is much admiied, not only for the ed ticc mid the cunveniency of the aparimeiiis, but for its lupcib turnlturc. Several uf ihe convmts are .ilfo very elegant, efpecially that of the Aullin-Filars, the motltl of which was taken fiom the Holy Houle at Luietio The colleges which formerly belonged to the J ( lits were likewife fine buildings. In the frnnc of one of them Hands a column of cupper, with a (tatuc of the Viri^ln Vlary on the lop of It; and there are infcrlptiotis on the pillar, importing, that Aullna is dedicated to her patronage. The cathedral of bt. otepheii is p.utlcu- larly grand, and it has a tUepIc four hundred and fixty-five foot in height. In this church, which la i.owever too dark, arc fcvcral grand loinb^ and monu- ments, of their princes and ,']reat men, and near one of the doors, they fhcw a llonc in the wall, which, according to their tradltiun, is one of thole with which St. Stephen was (toned. I'he fincit fuburb Is that called Lcopoldltadt, feparated from the city by a branch of the river, where the houfcs ot the nobility modly ftand. The city has fix gates, eighty ftrcets, twenty- nine churches, eight chapels, and eighteen market- places. The univerfity here is equal to any in Europe, In refpeift to the number of ftudents and their accom- modation;. The ftudents are divided into four dalles, namely, that of Auftria, the Rhine, the Hungarians, .ind the Saxons. Under one or other of ihufe, the ftudents of every nation arc comprehended. The im- perial library contains upwards of eighty thoufand volumes; in which aic fomu curious ancient manu* fcripts, befides a noble mufeum. This city was not very confiderable till towards the end of the twelfth century, when it was enlarged and beautified by the margrave of Auftria) the expence of which is fald to be defrayed by the money he got for the rani in of Richard I. king of England, whom he impril'uned in his return from the Holy Land. Though this city be {o far within land, yet the breadth and depth of the Danube give it the air of a port-town. Trading veflels are conftantly building and repairing; and here fhips of war, of fifty guns, are fometimes fitted out, to f-rve on the river againil the Turks. Provlfions of all kinds are here in great plenty, and perhaps no people indulge the luxury of the table more than Austria.] OENLRAL TRAVELLfeR. ••^ ihan ihe inhibiCinii of Vienna. Ptrfoni of quality will have (ighicrn or twenty iliflfcrent furti uf wine upon the fitli-liuird, with ;i lilt of ihcir iitnici liiJ before every gucll at the table, I'heir fietJom in the ufc of ihufc li(|u(iri ii ei]u4l tu the vaiieiy which tlicy kccp) iind it i; ilifficult fur a l)r,iii;;cr to nk fium * meal without a dij^ne of intoxication. ll iiicatc^ with the city by a bridge. Ens, fituate on thie river of the fame name, near its confl.,cnce with the Danube, ninctv milts nearly weft of Vienna, This place is fuppofcd to be the ancient Lauriacum, where the Roman emperors re- fided for fome time. The other towns of moft note in Auftria arc Fricftadt, Stain, Evcrding, Steyr, Wells, Ips, Neuftadt, Tuin, Saxemburg, and Sta- remburg. The duchy of Stiria, or Steymark, is bounded on the north by Auftria, on the eaft by Hungary, on the fouth by^Carinthia, and on the weft by Seltzburg; being a hundred and twenty miles long, and flxty broad. The capital is Grata, fituate in a pleafant No, 19. fruitful country, on iht river Mue/, eighteen mile* fuuih of Vienna. It is a fortified town, well built, and has a cafllc on sn adjacent hill for its defence. The prefcnt I'lnprtfs-queen has here tifo a palace, to which fhe fumctimci retires, Kakenbuig is another ftrong fortrefi, on the river Muer, twenty-eight miles eaft of (Waiz. On the fame river, in a fertile country, flandi Lu> teiibur^;, where the emprift aifo has a palace, fiftjr miles wiftward of Gratz, Eyfenartz ftands on the little river Seltta, twenty- four miles north -weft of Lutenburg. At this placo are exceeding rich mines of iron. I'pper Stiria is a mountainous country, abounding chiefly in (lieep; but Lower Stiria produces corn, wine, fruit, venifon and fifhj and the plains are covered with herds of neat cattle. I'his province, however, is often vifited by the Hungarian putrid lever; and the poorer I'ort of the inhabitants, who live on a lov/ diet, are extremely fubjc£l to ftrumoui fwellings in the glands of the neck, I'he duchy of Carinthia is bounded on ihe north by Stiria, on the e:ft by Sclavonia, on the fouth by Car< niola, and on the weft by Saltzbi'.^ It is about • hundred and forty miles long, and fifty broad, Tho chief towns ate Clagenfurt, fituated about a hundred and twenty miles fouth-weft of Vienna; and Lave- mund, on the river Levant, in a pleafant valley, fifty miles eaft of Clagenfurt. In the county of Cilley, which lies between the rivers Drave and Save, the chief town is Cilley, or Celia, tolerably well for* lifted. The duchy of Carniola, with Windefmark, or the margravate of Windes, is bounded on the north by Carinthia, on the eaft by Croatia, and on the fouth and weft by Iftria and other territories of the Venetians. The capital is Laubach, fituate on a river of the fame name, forty miles north of Triefte and the Gulph of Venice; a populous, well built city, and the fee of a bifhop. The town of Zirknitz is remarkable only for a lake in its neighbourhood, fixty miles in length, which totally fublides every year in the month of June, when the bottom of it yields good pafture; but in the end of September the water returns with great violence, fpouting up to a confiderable height through the fifTurcs of the earth, till the lake becomes feveral loot deep. Obcrlawbach ftands flxteen miles fouth-weft of Lau- bach, and has a flourifliing trade with the produce of Italy, which it difperfes to all parts of Germany. Metling, the capital of Windefmark, ftands on the frontiers of Croatia, thirty-five miles fouth-eaft of Cilley. Goritz, capital of the diftriili of Goriftia, is fituate in Friuli, fifty mile? weft of Laubach. Tiiis place is fuppofed to be the Niricia of the Romani. The reft of Friuli is fubj^£i to the Venetians. In the province of Iftria, a trrritory belonging to the Venetians, the houfcof Auftria has two fca-purts, namely, Triefte, and St. Vi£l, or Fiume, where they have been long endeavouring to cftablifh a foreign trade with the feveral countries bordering on the Mediterranean. The K k k late i' Ii 226 H MODERN [Europe. K M Ute emperor, Charles VI. was at great expcnce to en- large the port of the former of thofe towns, and make it a (lation fur men of war; but on his lofing Naples and Sicily, this projcfl was laid afide. The province of Carniola is a mountainous country, interfperfed with fruitful valleys, which furnifh plenty of corn and wine. The inhabitants, being a mixture of Germans, Italians, and Sclavonians, fpeak both High Dutch and Italian, WindeI'mark is a mountainous barren country, in- habited by the pofterity of ihe Veneti, a branch of the Sclavonian nation, as appears by their language. In the circle of Auftria lie likewife the county of Tirol, and the bifhoprick of Trent, the latter of which was anciently conlidered as a part of Italy. The county of Tirol, including the bifhoprick of Brixen, is bounded on the north by Kavari.! and Suabia, on the eaft by Carinthia and Friuli, on the fouth by the country of the Grifons and the bifhoprick of Trent, and on the weft by Switzerland; being a hundred and twi-nty miles long, and upwards of fifty broad. The chief rivers are the Inn, which falls into the Danube; and the Adige, which runs fouthward into Italy, and dilchargcs itielf into the gulph of Venice. It is generally a n-.ountainous, barren country, but has fome fruitful valleys, with feveral mines of filver, copper, and iron. The chief town is Infpruck, fituate on the river Inn, fixty-two miles fouth of Munich, and feventy north of Trent. The town of Hall, or Impthald, (lands likewife on the fame river, ten miles north-eaft of Infpruck. Tirol is at prefent a ruinous caftle, and only mentioned for its giving name to the county. Urixen, capital of the bifhoprick is fituated on the river Eyfack, thirty miles fouth-eaft of Infpruck. The territories of the bifhoprick extend forty miles in length, and thirty in breadth. It is for the moft part mountainous, but h.is fome fruitful val- leys, with mines of filver, copper, and iron, mineral- waters, and fait fprings. The bifhop, who is invefted with temporal jurifdl£llon, is a prince of the empire. The bifhoprick of Trent is Atuated up.in the Alps, which feparate Germany from Italy, and has fomctimes been reckoned a part of cither of thofe countries. It is bounded on the north by Tirol, on the eaft and fouth by the territories of Venice, and on the weft by the fome intermiJTions continued liom the year 154.5 to I5b3, in wnich the authority of the pupc over the church was eftablilbed, and the Roman Catholic dodlrines confirmed. This council confifted of feven cardinals, three patriarchs, thirty-three archbifliops, two hundred and thirty-five bifliops, feven vicars- general, and a hundred and forty-lix doctors and dignified clergy. Pozcn, or Bolfano, 'o fituate on the river Adige, twenty. five miles nortii of Trent, and h confiderable for its four annual fairs, to which the merchants of Italy and Germany refort. C H XI. Of the Germans— government— forces — eUSlien of ihe emperor — king of the Romans — tirch'oifiopricks and — biJJjopriclcs — umvcrftties — — coint — religion ^— marriage— hi/lory of the empire, ' f "■ H E natives of Germany are for the moft part ■*■ of a good ftaturt, rather inclining to corpu- lency, and their complexions generally clear. Their hair grows to a gieat length, which the men wear plaited; and in feveral provinces they wear alfo muftachoes on the upper lip. They are reputed an honeft, fagacious, fedatc people, brave in war, and their application indefatigable in the purfuit of any favourite objefi, They are however rather morofe than fociable, and haughty rather than complaifant; much addicted to intemperance in eating and drinking, and the men likewife to the fmoaking of tobacco, for which they ufe pipes of a great length. There are in Germany upwards of three hundred fovereign princes and ftates, moft of them arbitrary in their refpe£live territories, but univerfally fubje£t to the general laws of the empire, the legiflative diet of which confifts of the emperor, the nine ele£tors, the ecclefiaftic and fecular princes, and the deputies of the towns. This aflembly is convened by the emperor's fummons ; and the members are obliged by their allegiance to appear at the day ,-ind place appointed, either by themfelves or their proxies, unlefsthey will run the rifk of incurring the ban of the :mpire, and forfeiting their privileges. As half the diet ufually country of the Grifons; being about feventy miles I confifts of deputies, who vote according to the in- long, ar.d fifty broad, and having the river Adige run- | ftrui^ions which they receive from their principals, ning through it. This country produces very little 1 whom they muft confult on every matter of impor.aice, corn, but is not deficient in wine, oil, fruits of ' its proceedings are generally flow. This greac con- dift'erent kinds, and cattle. 'Ihe chief town is ] vcntion is held for the moft part at Ratifljon, but it Trent, fituate in 11 degrees of caft longitude, and 1 may be fummoned to meet at any city within the 46 degrees 5 minutes of north latitude, fixty-fcven | limits of the empire. miles fuuth-weft of Venice. It ftands in a pleafant The power of every member of the diet is not uni- valley on the bank of the Adige, but encompafi'ed by formly the fame; the concurrence of the citizens and three ftc-' mountains, which render it exceflive hot burgefles not being neceflary to the making of laws, in fummcr, and cold in winter. It is a finall city, though they are permitted to debate, and give their built of a kind of red and white marble, dug out of the rock on which it ftanJo, and is furrounJed by a fingle wall. The biftlop is fiiftrngao to tlie Venetian patriarch of Aquileia, but a prince of the empire, and fovereign of the adjacent country. In this city, pope faui III, aflembled that greut couiic^l, which with opinion when any law is propofed, The emperor, or the pcrfon he appoints to fupply his place, propofes every thing that is to be deliberated in the diet, and adjourns the debates when he pleafes. There are in the empire fwo fupreme courts of juftice, namely, the Aullc council, held at Vienna, and heirs, Gekmanv.J GENERAL TRAVELLER. 2*7 and the chamber of Spire, now removed to Wetzlar in Wetteravia. The judges in each of thofe court: were formerly fixiecn, but now incrcafed to fifty. The emperor names the prefideot, and four more: every eledlor nominates one ; and the reft arc appointed by the fcvcral circles of th; empire. Some of the judges are Proteftants, but the greater part Roman Catholicks, To thofe two tribunals lies an appeal from all inferior courts in the empire. Jf any of the German princes opprefs their fubjefis, or encroach upon each other's territories, a decree of thofe fupreme courts will compel them to do juftice to the injured. The judges are generally governed by the civil law and the a(3s of the diet; but in fome cafes they are dire£icd by the golden bull, a charter fo called from the feal annexed to it being of gold, It wat framed by Charles IV. with confent cf the princes and ftates of the empire, and contains the laws relating to the eledlion of the emperor, the privileges of the eleftors, the rules to be obferved at all public folemnities, and the appointing vicars during an inter-regnum. Thofe laws were pronounced to be irrevocable; but one of them has been violated, in increafing the number of tjflors from feven to nine. The emperor has hardly any lands or revenues which properly belong to the empire; but lie is at no charge in the adminiflration of the government, or maintain- ing forces, all expences, whether fixed or contingent, being defrayed by the vaflals of the empire. He can- not either make or fufpend laws, declare peace or war, nor raife taxes, without the confent of the ftates. The power however with which he is invefted of con- ferring all honours, and of appointing the generals of their armies, joined to the numerous pofts of confc- quence at his difpofal in the hereditary dominions, render his influence in the diet exceeding great. He is entitled to the reverfion of all fiefs, in default of heirt, and to all fines, forfeitures, and confifcations of criminals. The chrrge cf the civil government is defrayed by a tax called Roman months, to which all the princes and ftates contribute a certain proportion ; and their names are matriculated in a regifter kept by the elcfior of Mentz, who is chancellor of the empire, fpecifying the annual fum which each is obliged to pay, as well as the number of forces which they refpeiSively maintain in time of war. There are one or more direiflors in every circle of the empire, who are generals of the forces of the refpeftive circles, and execute the decrees and fenteaces of the diets and fupreme councils. They alfo aifemble the princes and ftates of the circle, to deliberate what oieafures are to be taken on any extraordinary emer- gency. •'''■ •'' ■ • ' The ftates of each circle, beHdis a general, who is ufually their direftor, eled five lieutenants to aflift him, or fupply his place in his abfencc. They alfo appoint for the fervice of the circle, a treafurcr, a receiver, and a fecretary. Upper Saxony ufually af- fembles at Leipfick ; Franconia at Nuremburg ; and the circle of Suabia at Ulm. They treat of the regu- lation of their coin, magazines, fortifications, and commerce; putting alfo into execution the decrees of the empire, appointing judges for the imperial chamber at Wetzlar, and the Aulic council at Vienna, and enabling fuch provincial laws as are not inconftftent with the conftitution of the empire. With refpeft to the forces which the fevera! princes of the empire may furnifh and maintain for the general intereft, the following lift appears to be a moderate computation, viz. The eleftor of Mentz - 6000 The eleftor of Triers - 6000 The eieflor of Cologn - 6000 '■■ ■ ) The biftiop of Munfter - - 8000 • : f- The bifhop of Liege - - - 8000 Archbifhop of Saltzburg - 8000 Bifhop of Wurtfburg 2000 . fiifhop of Bamburg - - . 5000 t Bifliop of Paderborn 3000 Bifhop of Ofnaburg . - - 2500 Abbot of Fulda _ . . . 6000 Other bifhopricks of the empire 6000 Abbeys and provoftfliips - 8000 Total of ecclefiaftieal princes 74500 X- "'• Hungary - - . - 30000 -'"*.- Bohemia and Moravia - - aoooo \''1 ■ . -• Auftria . - _ 20000 o« 1. ;» ' King of Pru-TIa 70000 . • Eledlor of Saxony 25000 i :. Eledtor Palatine - . _ 150CO .,.; .-;.. rf Duke of Wirtembcrg 15000 -^rri t;\l Landgrave of HefTe-CalTel - 15000 *-i;; '•- -4 Prince of Baden - - - lOCOO -i , "• ■ Elector of Hanover 30000 ' •: .1.1 Dtke of Holftein 13000 • ' ."' ■' Duke of Mecklenburg - 15000 " * Prince of Anhalt ... 6000 M . - ...,1 Prince of Lawenburg 6000 . J . 1 Eledlor of Bavaria - - - 3000 , ,.. i" Prince of NafTau 8000 ■'■■vn Other princes and imperial towns 50000 Secular princes and ftates - 305000 Ecclefiaftieal princes - 74500 379jno At the demife of an emperor, if no king of the Romans has been previoufly elefted, the eleAor of Mentz, as high chancellor of the empire, and dean of the eledloral college, fends a fummons to the other eleiSlors to appear at Frankfort on a certain day, for the purpofe of choofing a fuccefTor to the imperial dignity. At the time appointed the ele£tors march in great ftate on horfrback, from the ftadthoufc to St. Bartholomew's church, and having taken their feats in the choir, their feveral fword-bearers ftanding before them with their drawn fwords on their fhoulders, divine fervice begins. On fi.nging the hymn of Veni Creator, 'li m^ s. 2Z8 H E MODERN [EUHOPE. Creator, however, the protcftaiic eleiSlors withdraw till mafs is uycr. From the choir the eledlors proceed to a gallery in the church, where the eleflion is m'ctdc by a majority of voices. The new emperor being then condutSlcJ to ihe altar, takes an onth to maintain the laws and conftitution of the empire inviolable. The emperor mufl be a prince of German extrat'lion, and at lend twenty-eight years of age; but whether a proteliant prince can be elcdled, is a matter not determined by any precedent in the hiftory of the empire, fo great a majority cf tlie electors being of the Roman Catholic religion. VVhtn the day appointed for the coronation is arrived, tlie eleiHors, or their proxies, attend the emperor from his palace to the church, where the elcdlion had been made; the eie£lor Palatine carrying the crown, the elector of Bavaria the globe, the eleflor of Brandenburg the fceptre, the eledlor of Saxony the fword, and the eleilor of Hanover the flandard. With refpeift to the king of Bohemia, the other fecular eleiftor, he has been fon of the dcceafed emperor, and confequently the perfon elected, for fcveral generations before the year 1740. Being arrived at the door of the church, the em- peror is received at his entrance by the three ecclefiaftical cle£lors, who conduct him to the altar, where thearch- bifhop who officiates, anoints his head, bread, neck, and back, between the (houlders and the right arm. fic is then condu<3ed to another altar, where being c-owned, and cloathed with the ancient imperial robes, he is feated on the throne, and Te Deum is fung with great folemnity. A king of the Romans has been frequently elefled in the life of the reigning emperor, which is one of the expedients praflifed by the houfe of Aullria to keep the empire in their family. This dignity, how- ever, is accompanied with very little power, except that in the abfencc of the emperor the perfon who enjoys it is entruflcd with the adininidratiun. There are in Germany fix archbifhopricks and thirty nine bifliopricks, of which many have been fccularized fince the Reformation, and foine converted into duchies. The number of univerfitics is twenty. feven. No people applies more clofely .r Audy than the Germans j nor is ther^ in any country u greater number of authors. No man can be s graduate in their univerfities, who has not publiQicd one difputation at leall; the confe- quences of which is, that the nation abounds in pole- mical writings, which rather perplex than enlighten the underftanding. Amon;^ the deaO languages the Hebrew is much cultivated; and next to civil jurif- prudenco, the fcicnce of medicine has here received extraordinary improvement. , ,; ._, .j ,. . 1 German Gold Coins. I. .. d. Ducat of the bifhop of Bamberg - 093 Double ducat of Ilanovcr - • 0184 Ducat of Hanover - - - 092 Ducat of Biandcnburg - - 9 3 Double ducats of fevcral forms in Ger- many - - • 18 4 iV / 'r.' /• d. I 2 2 2 4 2 2 I I r 2 4 4 4 6 4 6 4 5 . •,..., Silver Coi.vs. Ducaton of Cologn _ - - Rix dollar, or paiagon of Cologn - — — — — of Mcmz — ___^_ of F'rankfort — — — — of the Palatiniue — — — — of Nureinburg ————— of LuiKiiburg Old rix dollar of Hanover - - . Double gulden of Hanover . - - The gulden of Hanover The half gulden of Hanover The gulden of Zell ... —I of Ihe bifliop of Hildcfiicim — — — of Magdeburg - - Old rix dollar of Brandenburg Old gulden or guilder of Brandenburg o New guilder of Brandenburg - - Half guilder . _ - Gulden of the ele£lor of Suxony - Old bank dollar of Hamburg Rix dollar of Lubeck •— of the emperor Leopold - — -— — of Ferdinand lii, •^— — of — — archduke of Aufiria Befides the fun and moon, to which the ancient Germans paid adoration, they acknowledged feveral fafons, the ground is annually covered with fiiov 'ii.iii'g icveral months. Poland comprehends twelve great pro»inces, namely. Great Poland, Pruflia Regal and Ducal, Sainogitia, Courland, Lithuania, Warfovia, Palachia, Polcfia, Little Poland, Red Ruflia, V'olhinia, and Podolia. Great Poland is the moft weftcrly province of (he kingdom, and adjoins to Silefia I'he chief totvns are, 1. Pofna, or Pofan, fituate on the river Warta, a hundred and fifty miles weft of Warfaw, It is a beautiful little city, ftanding in a plain furroundcd with hills, and is the capit.1l pf a palatinate. 2. GncTna, lying near thirty miles eaft of Pofna; the fee of an archbifhop, who is primate of Poland, and v'ccroy during the vacancy of the. throne. Thi; was the firft town built in Poland; the inhabitants 'iving always in tents before that time, and removing from place to place with their flocks and hcrd.s, in the manner of the Scythians or Tartar nations. )m the ca'licJr.il lyf Gnefna is the tomb of St. Adelbert, h-. Id in great veneration by the Poles, who nnke;i-i, , Lfcnts annu- ally to his fhrine, ain-.nft equal, we xr.: v ,■ , to thofe offered to the Virgin Mary ac ' retto. ■,. Kalifh, the capital of a palatinato. lyinj fort, '".'.'•■« fr.uth.eaft of Pofna. 4. Siradia, li! ewif? ihv ;apitil jf a pala- tinate, ftated 0)1 the river W?r*., i the fouth part of the provinr The Cher moi nfiderable towns in this divifion aic Rava, ). fcia, .wivle, and Inow- loez, ea-rh the rapi'u' ..' a di.iii.tSt palatinate, to which they reCpei-./vely :;ive name Pruflia is diviaed into the Regal and the Pucal ; ill.: former of which, fubjeft to the kingdom of Poland, coiita . the wcftern part of this oivifion. The chief town Dantzick, fituate in 19 degrees 5 minutes I tuit longitude, and in 54 degrees 22 minutes of north latitude, on the weft bank of th; Viflula, which falls into the Baltic fea a little bclov^' the town. Dantzick is a large city, cncompafled wish a wall and fortifications of gre?t extent. The hjufes are well built of ftone or brick, fix or feven ftoties high. The granaries containing vaft magazines of corn and naval ftorcs, are yet higher, to which the fhipping lie clofe, and take in their lading. It is an excellent harbour, and has the beft foreign trade of any pott within the Baltic. The Dutch annually import thither many thoufand tuns of corn, timber, and naval ftorcs, and other nations fome ; but the former have the grcateft fhare of this trade, paying for their merchan- dize with pickled herrings, fpices, fugars, brandy, and other produce of the fouthern countries; while England and other nations pay chiefly with money for the commodities which they purclnle at this pl.icc. This is one of the haiife-towns, and the number of inhabitants is computed at two hundred thoufand. 1 The magiftracy confifts of thirty fenators, who con- tinue for life ; four of whom arc burgo-mallcrs. Bcfides 1^ Poland.] ENERAL TRAVELLER; 9it Befides thofe thfre arc thirteen eonfiils, who cle£b the burgomafters out of their ovcl twenty miles north-eaft of Warfaw. 1 he orf'.-t towns of note are Braflaw, ?ilockfko, Witftaflc, T'loclv, Ml.iiki, Meiflaw, Novagrade-k, Wilcomits, at d Gi&dno, at the latter of which the diet fcTietimes •. ' :i to afienible. The province of Little I'oland has Hur»ary on the fouth, and Sil- i and Moravia on ;hc j/cft. The chief town acow, fituate in a fint phi.i^ : -.At the banks v t Viftula, in 19 degrees 55 n..autes eaft longitu ' . and in 50 degrees 10 minute: of north latitude, a indred and fifty miles ibuth of W..faw. This is f times reckoned the capital of Poland ; but it is a leaft the beft built town in the kingdom. Here t' 'ipreme courts of juftlce are held, and the regalia ; ept in the caftle; it being thi. place where the kings were ufually crowned, and buried. It is alfo the fee of a bi/hop, and the feat of an univer- fity. In the fame province lies Sandomir, capital of a palatinate, pleafantly fituated at the confluence of the rivers Viftula and Sanus, feventy miles eaft of Cracow ; and alfo Lublin, capital of a palatinate, a hundred and thirty miles north-eaft of Cracow. This is a town confiderable trade, whither foreign mer- chants relos in great numbers, at threj fairs which are held every year. The province of Red Ruffia lies eaftward of the preceding, and it feparated from Hungary on the fouth by it 132 THE MODERN [EURCPP. m by the Carpathian mountains. The chief towns arc, Chelm, Bdz, and Lemburg, or Leojiold. This is the fee of an archbifliop, and enjoys a flourifliing trade. The province of Podolia is fituate on the eaft of Red Ruflia, and is divided into the Upper and Lower, the latter of which lies fouth-cail of the former. The capital of the province is Kaminccic, fcatcd on the river Smartzick, almod the only fortified town of Poland on the frontiers of Turky. The province of Volhinia is fituated on the river Nieper, eaftward of Little Poland, and is alfo diftin- guilhed into the Upper and Lower Volhinia. The chief town in the former is Lufuc, or Luckow, a place of great trade, and a biftiop's fee. The Lower Volhinia is inhabited by the Coflacs, who are moft of them fubjefl to Ruflia. CHAP. n. 0/ tht froduce—onlmah—tradi— native!— drefs— diet —divtrjians^rvny of travcUing— language— religion ^—mmey^governmtnt '—hijlery. pOLAND beinj; well watered by lakes and rivers, * produces vaft quantities of wheat, rye, and oats, which are annually exported to the fouihern countries of Europe. Nor is this kingdom ! fs remarkable for its numerous herds of neat cattle, which the inhabitants fell to the pz-f^ple of Brandenburg, Pomerania, and the ether contiguous territories. The fruits of the country »re the iame with ours, and their grapes alio will not make wine. Here is a fine breed of horfes, fit eithct munity in the grcateft contempt. On this account the manufactures here remain in an unimproved flati-, and all the inland commerce i« earned on by Jews and foreigners, who take every opportunity of impofing upon tl-e natives with whom they traffic. The I'oles arc general!)' above the middle fize, and inclined ,o corpulency. They have good features, with a healthy complexion, and hair for the moll part of a light colour. This they wear fliort, and fliave their beards, refcrving only whilkers on their upper lip. The habit of a gentleman is a veil, and over it a loofc coat, lined with furs, and girt with a fafli, the neevcs fitting clofe like thofe of a waiftcoat. Under the veil they wear a fliirt, which has neither collar nor wriflbands. Their breeches are wide, and of a piece with their (lockings. Inftead of fhoes they wimi' boots of Turky leather, Their drefs is not complete without a poll-ax, and a fabre or broad fword. The fabrc hangs by a leather Urap, with the handkerchief, knife, and a fmall flone fet in filver, for the purpofe of whetting the knife. When they go abroad they wear a (hort cloak, covered with furs on each fide. The old Potifli drefs of the women is not much un- like that of the other fex $ but at prefent they gene- rally follow the French mode. The Poles are very profufe both in their drefs and thj furniture of their houfes. Some of them think they are not well provided, if they have not forty fuits of cluaths, and thofe exceeding rich. Except in Oantzick, and the trading towns in the Torth, where the buildings are five or fix (lories high, '.'.e houfes for the mofl part confift of no more than a for riding or thi. draught; and the foreds abound in ground floor; but fome are built higher, and after the deer, elks, ha.cs, and other game. The wild beads model of thofe in Italy, In gentlemen's houfes in the are bears, wolves, foxes, wild bull.', and wild alTes; and in Volhinia, about the Nicpcrj there are wild (hcep and horfes. The waters of P' "and abound in fi(h, and they have all forts of wild few). Vaft quantitits of honey are produce! by the bees in the forrds In the northern provinces, the partridges, hares, and fome other animals, turn white in the winter, as they do in Sweden and Norway, The country alfo produces mines of filver, co^^er, lead, and iron j but the falt- pits are the mod confiderable, and fome of them three or four hundred yards deep. The exportations of Poland confid in grain, cattle, "icmp, flax, linen, hops, hides, tallow, leather, furs, honey, wax, potaflies, pitch, tar, mafts, yards, planl's, fait, beer, vitriol, nitre, lead, iron, copper, glafs, coals, earthen ware, and wool. The goods which they import are, woollen cloth, filks, tapedry, jeA'ls, wines, fpices, failed and dried fifli. rr.ifins, ^6S fuga«s, and tin ; the balance of trade being very much againd them in mod countries, JS'eithcr the habits of the Polifh nation, nc S, jivm I'Abbf Cbaeff: Ss: tj/u- hottar f iltn am/ H onnti n'lf tn (t^neUt/ , /> /nr ni rr'/i/ ^< innlko/'l) , .ii'ni/i. /a////.> f» /77^i. f^/nry //U/ >i'tfi/i ///i ifitri /itadi, .uii^i I , ff'f'r ( Juf/f/tf, ii'itfi If /(•H'{-/.cirrn-/iu/i //i>i/ /(tJfn If Inu/ />/ , M/mt/. /u/rr/t /'^ m> fftU fy /r tur,C('rf'it; tvil/i /inta ///■ftrt-dltl.> i.nt /■ci',- n/vif /nnrtitutioii of the Polifli government, has terminated their religious difputes. There are here two archbifhopricks, viz. Gnefna and Lcopol. The incumbent of the former, who is always a cardinal, is primate of the kingdom; and during an inter-rcgnum, or in the king's abfcnce, he is regent. The bifhopricks are thofe of Pofiia, VVilni, Cracow, Culm, Karnod.nv, Window, Mediiic, Placfko, Le;(ko, Calmenfec, Fauconhiirg, Preiniflaw, and Camineck. Poland aboumls in Jews, (iiid to be of the tribe of l)cnj;iinin. 'I'hey are however in appearince extremely dilpicable, but by their uiutencfs and induftry they have obtiiii.d an eftabliflinicnt, which it is for the advantage of the nation to ftippoit; as the trade which they carry on enables them to p.iy an intereft of ten ptr cent, fur large funis. The Current Money. 3 Shillinjrs, or iS phenningen 3 (jrofch - - - •2 Ditkens - - 3 Sixers - - - y ', Cjiofch 4 Ach de halbcrs - - . 3 Gilders ... No. 10. I Grofch I Ditken I Sixer I Tymph I Ach de halbers. I Gilder I Currrt)t dollar 4 Gilderi 8 Gilderi 1 Specie dollar I Ducat o I N s. The ducat of Poland . - . Old filver dollar of Dantzick - • Old rix-dollar of Thorn The rix-dollar of Sigifmund III, and I of UlidiHaus IV. kings of Poland S o o o d. 3 6 5 4 6 Polifh coin fells from one to two per cent, advance. The exchange is ufually from abo to jgo grofth per pound Flemifli pennies. Koninglburg draws in current money, one per mil. according to cudom, being dc> du£icd. Accounts in Poland are kept in gilders, grofch, and phenningen. Poland, before the late difmemberment of the kina- dom, and the alteration in its government, was in reality an aggregate of confederated ftates. tvery palatinate or county had the power of making provincial I iws, which were however to be confiftent with the general ftatutes of the republic. The government was divided into two branches, namely, the legiflative and executive power; the former of which was lodged in the diet or aflembly of the ftates, and the latter in the fenate, of which the king was prefident. The fenate confided of the archbifliops, bifhops, palatines, cadellans, and great officers of flate; and the diet was compofcd of the fenate and the deputies or repre- fentatives of every palatinate (county) and city. They ufually met every two years, and oftcner upon extra- ordinary occaftons, if fummoned by the king, or in his abfencc, by the primate, the archbifliop of Gnefna, The longeft term of a feflion was fix weeks, and the afTembly often broke up in a tumult in a much fliortec time. For one diflenting voice prevented their paffing any law, or coming to any refolution on what was propofcd to them from the throne. The regal power was contrafied within very narrow limits. By the pa£ia conventa, or the inftrument which the king figneil at his acceflion, he engaged not to introduce any forces within the bounds of the republic, and to prefer no pcrfon to any civil office, except a native of the province in which the department exided. Though he appointed the officers of date, they were only ac- countable to the republic. To difplace any officer he had no legal authority, and the public treafure he was not permitted to touch. He could not make war or peace, nor marry, without the confent of the dates ; and neither king nor queen could profcfs any other religion than that of the catholick church. The king was ufually eledted in the plain adjoining to Warfaw, by the clergy and men of landed property in the feveral provinces, who adembled in armour on horfeback. The choice was not held to be valid unlefs they were unanimous; and when they happened to be divided, as was frequently the cafe, the majority drew tlltir fabres, and compelled the other party to fubmit. But though this expedient fuppreded any oppofitioa for the prefent, the tranquillity of the nation remained always precarious, and feldom proved of long duration, « M m m among *14 II M O I) !■: R N [lUiKopr. i among a turbulent ariftocraiy, whofc natural hauglui- nefii incited revolt againft the conltn.ned acknowli'd|ie- mcnl of .in unpopular fovercign, and vvhulc numbers were fuch tli.it ili.y could liurdly be conciliated l>y the utmoll influence of the crown. No fixed revenue was tlhblifhed in Poland for the fuppoit of ilie government, but lu; plies wcie occafion- ally i;^'"'^'' ^y •'"= diets, actoiding to ibe cxijjtnce of the Hale, riie fund allotted for the maintenance of the royal houfehold arofe formerly from certain lands \cfl(d in the crown, fioni the produce of the falt-woiks, and from the diH'eri.nt cur.oin-houfcs in the kingdom, the vvholc of which never exceeded two hundred thoufand pounds a year, and fometimes did not amount to the half of that fum. Since the king- dom has been divided, the falt-works and fome of the crown lands have been leized by the emprefs- queen of Hungary, the produce of part of the cuflom- houfts by the king of I'ruffia, and another part of ihe crown-lands, with p,irt of the cudoins of Mohilow by the emprefs of Ruflia. Before the paitltion of Poland, the army of the re- public ul'ually confillcd of thirty-fix thoufand men, who were divided into two corps, independent of each Other. The Polifh corps was fixed at twenty- four thoufand men, and that of Lithuania at twelve thou- fand, of which two thirds were cavalry. 'I'hofe troops were ref'ptclively commanded by two generals, who were vcfkd with abfolute authority over the men, and th./ugh always noir.inated by the crown, were account- able for their operations to the republic only. The furniture of the Polilh cavalry is extremely magnificent, but the infantry is badly armed, as well as ill cloathcd, and ulten without uniforms. Keirhcr the horfe nor the foot is remarkable for diftipline; they commonly make a furious onfet, but if tli';y be repulfcd they retreat with great precipitation, and will never return to the charge. The greater part of Poland is now divided between the emprefs-queen of Hungary, the king of Pruflia, and the emprefs of RufTia. The firft of thofe powers has taken pofTclTion of almoft all the fouth- eaflern parts of the kingdom, and the rich falt-works of the crown; the fccond has occupied PoliOi Pruflia, with fome diftriiSls bordering upon Brandenburg; and the third has afiumed a large diftrift of country about Mohilow, upon the banks of the Dnieper. Since this divifion has taken place, there is not any regular form of government in Poland ; thofe three great powers direfling every thing according to their picafurc, while the king, the fenatc, and the diet, are at prefent only the inftruments of their adminillra- j tion. llaiJIy, however, can the d.fpotllin of .ny of thufe fovcreigni prove mure intolerable to the piopts I than the former opiireflion of (he sriftocricy, which I cxitiiled its dominion with a degree of ri^jjur re- pugnant to every principle of civil l;b(rty. The Polls, like the other norih'rn nations wcra anciently a tribe of Scytliianv, w!io led an iliii. rant li/e, tiil Lcihus, thi full of tiicir (.neieijiu miiitiuiitd in hillory, taught them to cllablilli a pennaiient reli- dence. Under the direflinn of this prince, who af. fuimd the title ol duke, they built the city of CinefiM about the year 550. Lichus is faid to have bei n fuececded by his polterity for a hundred and fifty years, when the family becoming extimS, the government was diviJeJ lietween Iwtlve palatines, or vaivods, who were fovereigns of their refpeclive provinces, and in- dependent of each other. About the year 700, one Cracuf, either by force or intrigue, became fovercign of the whiile, and built the city of Cracow, which he called after his own name. He left two fors, Cracus and Lechus, with a daughter n.imcd Vcnda. Lechus murdering his elder brother, was excluJed from the fucceflion by the people, who advamij Vinda to the throne; but this family becoming like- wife extinct, the country again adopted the govern- ment of the twehe vaivods, who in the year 760 eledkd Lefcus their fovercign, with the title of duke, as formerly. In the year 999, Bolellaus C'robry fiift afl'umed the title of king. About this time Chriftia- nily appears to have been firft eftabliflied in Poland. 1 I.e monarchy was abfolute until the reign of Lewis, in 1370, when the prerogative was greatly rediiiHed ; but the lineal fuccefTion to the crown fufTered no alteration. A few years afterwards thcrepreff itatives of the fevcral palatinates or provinces were firlt fummoned to fit in the allenibly of the flates ; the great oflicers of the crown and the dignified clergy only having hitherto enjoyed this privilege. But fo important an cxtenfion of the Icgiflative authority, though it ferved to difFufe a more equal fharc of power among the ariftocratical part of the nation, proved the means of frequently impeding the operations of government ; and whilfl it farther diminifhed the influence of the crown, which had already been abridged of all its moft formidable prerogatives, it added nothing to the general happinefs or freedom of the people. Henceforward turbulence and difl'enfion took place of regularity and concord ; and the fucceflion being contefled at the demifc of almoft every king, there enfucd a fcene of univerfal anarchy and civil war, which often never totally fub- fideJ during the whole fucceeding reign. RUSSIA. .I'r. Russia.] R GENERAL TRAVELLER. U S S I A. ill CHAP. 1. Of thi Jiluatitn—air—//, it falls into the Palus Ma;otis, or fcaof Afoph. 7. The Nicper, or Boriilhenes, rlfes In the province of Mofcow, and running fouth-wed through part of Poland, afterwards changes its courfe to the fouth- eafl, in which direftion again entering Poland, and palTing by Kiof, it proceeds through the Ukrain, and falls into the Euxine Sea at Oczakow. 8. The Lower Dwina rifes in the province of Mofcow, and running weft through Poland, falls into the Baltic below Riija, by a c.inal which Peter the Great made between the river Woronte and the Wolga, Ruflia contains tliirty-onc provinces, viz. in the north, Lapland, Samoicda, Bella Morcnfkoi, Mi-fccn, Dwina, Syriancs, Perma, Rubinlnlki : in the middle, Rezan, Belozera, Wologda, Jereftaf, Twcer, Mofco, Belgorod : on the call, Bulgar, CaHan, CzreinilE, Little ii % IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) k A // ^ >. A* 1= 11.25 la 12.8 ■" 140 U KB u 125 2.0 ^1^ 0> <^ '/] v^* ■^ 7 Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) •72-4S03 iV ^ i •^ <> 6^ «36 THE M D R N [Europe. Little Novogrod, the territory of the ColTacs on the river Don: on the weft, Great Novogrod, Ruffian Finland, Kexholm, Carelio, l.^gria, Livonia, Snto~ lenlko, Zerniugof, Scefdc, and the Ulcrain, or country of the Old Cofl'aclcs on the Nieper. Peterfliurg, or St. Petersburg, the capital of the Ruffian empire, is fituate in 30 degrees 23 minutes of caft longitude, and in 59 degrees 57 minutes of north latitude. It Aands on an ifland in the middle of the river Nieva, in the provinces of Carelia and Ingria, between the gulph of Finland and the lake Ladoga, occupying at prefent a prodigious extent of ground ; but ai the houfes in many parts are not contiguous, and gn.at fpaces are left unbuilt, it is hard to afcertain its real magnitude. It extends about fix miles every way, and, being fituated on a flat, is greatly expofed to inundations. When thurg. It flands in a fine plain, and is about fix miles in length, and four in breadth. Some years ago this city fufFcrcd greatly by fire, to which the numerous timber buildings render it extremely liable. The very ftreets of t!>e town are laid with fquare beams of fir, inftead of pavement ; and in place of walls, the houfes of the great men had timber cnclofures. Before the conflagration there are faid to have been in this city upwards of a thoufand churches. Here are ftill fcveral palaces, but not com- parable to thofe about Peterfliurg. One however it remarkable for its thirty chapels, and its hanging gardens. The river Mofcowa running through the city in a winding courfe, and having feveral groves and gardens on its banks, affords a pleafant profpeA} but the many vacant fpaces where houfes once flood, prefent at the fame time a ftrikiig piflure of the defo- lation which the fires have occafioned. That which happened in the year 1751 deftroyed thirteen thoufand houfes, which is not half the number that have been burnt within the prefent age. Since thofe calamities, wooden houfes are permitted to be built only in the remote ftreets ; an order having been iffued for re- building the reft with brick and ftone. As (his city ftands in the middle of European Ruffia, in an health- ful air, and was formerly the capital of the empire, many of (he nobility who rre not obliged to attend the court, refide here; as well as the principal manu- fafiurers and merchants. For the ancient Ruffian families look with contempt upon Peteriburg, as being a modern town, inhabited by a mixture of people of diffeient nations, and of mean extradiion. Archangel, the capital of the province of Dwina, is fituate in 40 degrees la minutes of eaft longitude, and in 64 degrees 30 minutes of north latitude. It ftands about four hundred miles north-eaft of Peterfo burg, on the Upper Dwina, which difcharges itfelf into the White Sea five or fix miles below the town. The trade of this place has greatly fuffered fince the building of Peteriburg, but it is ftill a confiderable town. Russia.] GfeNERAL TRAVELLER. «37 town. Timber and naval ftores being here in great plenty, and labour likewtfe bcin^ cheap, many of the Ruffian fliipi of war are fitted out at this port. Great quantities of frcfli meat, fiOi, and wild fowl, are fent from this place to Peterfbur^, with which in winter the fledges will travel in two days. The in- habitants of Archangel have plenty of good liquor, as well as food of all forti. Riga, the capital of Livonia, is fituate in 24 degrees 25 minutes of eaft longitude, and 57 degrees of north latitude, not far from the mouth of the Lower Dwiua, near four hundred miles fouthurg, by water, ufually takes up two fummers. Next to Mofcow and Petcrfl>urg, this is the greatcft magazine in Ruflia for all kinds of merchandise. The inhabitants had formerly a confiderable trade to Oo- chara, Khieva, and other parts of UAcc Tartary ; but this commerce has been difufcd fome time, OA account of , N n n the gjS T H E the deprtdition* eomtaitted on the caravtn* by the trit>M of Tartan, through whom they wer« obliged «• pdA. Ok both fiifei of the river Don, towards hi moutb, u far at the Palai MKOtit^ ii the couhtry of the Don CoMiKkt, the chief town of which is Adar, fituaie on At river Donetc, abort two hundred milei fouth of VToronets. There are few towns in this country, the Coflacks living in flight huts or tents, which .they remove occafionally as the necefities of their cattle require. The Old Coflacks live in the Ukrain, towards th; Uteuth of the river Nieper, or BpriOhenes. Their chief town is Kiof or Kiow, feated on the Nieper, in 31 degrees of call longitude, and in 51 degrees of north latitude. It ftands in the mofl agreeable climute and fruitful foil in Ruflia, which has induced the court of PeterA>urg to refide here fometimes, though it lies upwards of five hundred miles north of Muf- cow. Befides the cities that have been mentioned, tiiere are many other confiderable towns in this extenflve empire, viz. Roftof, Periflaw, Sufdal, Wolodimir, Troitta, Columnia, Wyburg, Parna, Stiria, Belo- (ero, tte. But in Samoieda, and foihe other of the northern provinces, we hardly meet with any towns, or even inhabitants, except the Laplanders, who live great part of the year in caves undtr the fnow. So much of this cxtcnfive empire is covered with ^oibd, that perhaps not a twentieth part of it has yet hein taltiVMM. It is extremely well watered with Urge hivigable rivers t and if there were a commoni- ctition betweeti them, w^ich might eafily be efFeded, 1 this country Would be i dition, except a great coat lined with fur, it accord- ing to the mode tif the weftrrn countries of Europe, fince the time of Peter the Gieat, who introduced this alteration, and alfo prohibited his fubjeiSls from wear- ing lung beards, which had formerly been the general practice. With refpefl to the Laplander* and Samoieds, they clothe themfelvei with flcins and furs from head to foot, ar'* ufually few two (kin* together, with the furs on each fide. Till the acceflion of the csar Peter, the KuOlani were chiefly diftinguiflied for indolence ifnd drunken* Dcfs. An ambaflador wai obliged to fwallow a pint of their country fpiriti drawn from the rye, before he was allowed to addrefs the emperor } and merchants cxpe£icd the fame from foreigners before they would enter upon bufincfs. Since that period, however, the national character has undergone a (MoAderable altera- tion, Artt and manufacture* have been introduced amongft them ; and the habits which were the con- comitants of floth and ignorance, iiave gradually yielded to the progref* of civilization and induftiy | though intemperance in drinking may yet be confidercd as a prevalent vice among the people. The exceffive abufe of intoxicating liquors, which prevailed fo much in Ruffia beflore the beginning of the prefent century, rendered the natives not only averfe to every ufeful occupation, but almoft totally unfufccptible of focial amufement. They are, however, for the moft part hardy, and patient of labour in a great degree. Animal food of all kinds is here in great plenty j beCde* which the people make great ufe of melons, cucumbers, onions, and garlick, and tbey pickle vaft quantities of mulhrooms to ferve in the time of their long fafti. The praAice of bathing is fo common in Ruffia, that accommodations for this purpofe are c(labli(hed in every town of any note. Among the people of inferior condition, both fexes ufe them promifcu- «u(ly ; and it i* the general cuftom to plunge into ath immediately after coming out of the warm. Among the winter diverfions in Ruffia, one which feems to be peculiar to the nation, is that of Aiding down a hill. They make a track on the flde of a fieep hill, down which they defcer.d with aftonifbing velocity, in a machine refembling a butcher's tray. The Ruffians are fo fond of this diverfion, that at Peterfliurg, having no hills, they raife artificial mounf^ •n the ice on the river Nicva, whither the people of ' I all age* and rank* refort in great number* for the fake of Aiding. The late emprefs Kliaabeth, who wa* mucfi addiAed to this diverfion, had a theatre erected for the purpofe. It confillcd of five mount* of un> equal height. The ftrft and higheft is thirty foot • T perpendicular altitude. The momentum acquired in defcending this, carries a perfon over the fecond, which i* •bout five w fix foot lower, and fo to the laft, when the Aider i* conveyed by a gentle defcent, with nearly the fame velocity, over a piece of water into a little iAand. Thofe Aide*, which are about a furlong and a half in length, are made of wood, that thejr may be ufcd in fummcr as well a* in winter. In tra- verfing them, two or four perfon* ufually fit in a little carriage, and one ftands behind ) for, according to the weight, the velocity of the motion is proportionably greater. The carriage tun* on caflon, and in groove*, to keep it in a right direiSlion, and it defcenda with prodigio'ii rapidity. At the bottom i* a machine worked by hotfes, for drawing the carriages back again, with the company in them. The method of travelling here in Aedge* during frofty weather i* very expeditious. When the emprefi makes an cacurfion in this way from Peterfburg to Mofcow, which is diftant about four hundred and ninety miles, (he ufually perform* the journey in tb* fpace of three day* and three nights. Her voiturc on tboiie occafions i* a machine which contain* a bed, a table, and other convenience* j where four perfon* may lodge, and be furnifhcd with all neceflary accom- modation*. Thi* machine i* fet on a fledge, drawn by twenty-four poll horfes, which are relieved at regular ftage*; and to illuminate the r jad, great pile* of wood are placed at certain diftance*, to be fct oa fire, if Ihe happens to paf* in the night. When Peter the Great afcended the throne, the whole revenue of the Ruffian empire did not amount to fix millions of roubles } but before the death ot that prince, the public revenues, including the tribute of the Tartar* which wa* paid in money, independently of all thofe taxes that were levied in kind, were in- creafed to near fifteen millions of roubles. In the year 1767, after the prefent emprefs had annexed the church-lands to the domains of the crown, the public revenue* amounted to twenty-five million* of rouble* i and in 1770, after fome additional taxes had been impofed, they amounted to full twenty-eight millions, clear of all incumbrances. This rapid increafe of the revenue was owing not to any improvements made in the agriculture or manu- factures of the empire, but to the gaining fo many port* for foreign trade in the Baltic Sea, A great balance of trade in favour of Ruffia, has brought a confiderable fum of money to circulate in the empire, which enables the inhabitants to pay a great tax upon all kinds of foreign merchandize that is imported. The cuftom-houfes of Peteifburg, Riga, Narva, and Revel, produce an immcnfe revenue. Some year* paft it amounted to above eight millions of roubles { and the mines of gold and filver m Siberia have been worked by the crown to a yety great ad- vantage. A con- Thfe j^: 6 D B K K li\0 A confiderablr pirt of the revenue of the empire aiires from ■ ca|. ution-tax, with the moiiupoly of (aU, rhubarb, and pot-aflij (o that, the whole Included, the imperiril treafury is more than fuflicieiU to anfvver all the public charges of the tlatc. In the beginning of the reign of Peter the Pirft, the maritime force of Kuffia confifted only of a few row- galliei, but at prefent the emprefi ba at leaft fixty fliipi of the line, and between thirty and fort;' fiijratti, fiefidea thofe, there are about a hundred and fif^y row- gallies, which are ufcful in many parts of the Baltic, where it would be dangerous for any large flirps to enter. Thefe galiict generally carry two pieces of cannon, and from fifty to a hundred men, who attack with fmall arms. The Ruffians have likewife a naval force in the Black and Cafpian feas, which is com- pofcd of a number of fmaU frigates, /loops of war, and roW'gallics. The regular troops at prefent in the fcrvics of Ruffia, exclufive of the Coflacks and Tartars, are full three hundred and fifty thoufand men. So great, however, is the extent of their territories, and fuch the number of fortrefies which they have to fupport from Peterfbuij to the borders of China, that it is with difficulty they can bring into the field a hundred and fifty thoufand men. I'he common Ruffian foldiers, from a principle of -fuperfiition, arc taught to defpife life, and are there- fore extremely bold in an engagement i but their in- trepidity is rendered in a great meafure inefFedual through the ignorance of the commanding officers, who ate for the moft part men of very little experience in their profeffion, Thofe are generaLy chofen, not by their merit, but in confequenc? of their family connexions, out of the ofKcers of the Ruffian guards, a body of troops which at prefent amounts to about ten thoufand men, over whom their influence is fo great, as to render them formidable even to the fove- reign. There is a- great number of fortified places in the Ruffiatt empire, many of which are very firong, par> ticularly thofe-in the provinces conquered from the Swedes by Peter the Firfl. They have a chain of forts paffing through Siberia and Great Tartary, as far as the frontiers of China. There are alfo many ilrongfortrefTes in the kingdoms of Cafan and Aflracan, as well as in the Ukraine, and upon the frontiers of the Tur'ilfh dominions. The Ruffian dominions tire at prefent nearly as ex- tenfive as ail the other European ftates ; yet, according to a juft calculation, they do not contain much above eighteen millions of people, there hcing very extenfive traAs of land, even in the mofl le.Mle and populous provinces, whicii remain uncultivated and full of woods. In the kingdoms of Cafan and Aflracan there arc whole provinces that have only inhabitants fu^icient to conduit the cattle and the (heep to their pafhire ; and the Ukraine alone might fupport two millions of inhabitants by the produce of agriculture, more than at prefent are able to fubAd in the country. This unprofpcrous flatc of the empire is owing to the . . 7 [EuRore. dLTpolifm of the governiKcnt, which is particularly oppreffi"' to' the peafants, who befides being loaded with a heavy capitation'tax, are obliged to furnifh recruits for the army and navy } and are alfo, ttnder thto fanAibn of (he tegiflaiure, mofl cruelly treated by the proprietors of the fiefs, ' Notwithflaitding (hofe difadvantages, the trade of Ruffia, both 'interior and foreign, is now become.' TCfy confiderlble,' thougl^ its aggrandisement be greatly counieraAed by the flavei'y of the people, tnd fome injwiicious regulations, £xcl.>ange, which is the means of tranfporting money from one country to another, and without which the heft eftablifhed commerce cannot be fuppoited, is' ptohibtted by thv laws of RufKa, under very fevere penahics',- and no p"rfon can quit the empire without a pafTpon. Ruffia, however, being able to furnifb iron, hemp, flax, with mufl of the materials for fhip-building> and almoft ail the natural produAions of the North, wifl continue to have fome balance of trade in her favour with the maritime powers, particularly EngLnd and tlulland. The flaple manufaiSlures of the country are linen' and leather, to which may be added hard-ware, which has of late been greatly cultivated. They alfo caft great guns, mortars, bombs, and anchors, and make vaft quantities of fm«.l'. ?r'>n. The coins of Ruffia are, the filvei' rouble, valued at four fliillings and fix pence, and the half and quarter rouble, with the coiTeck or ^>eimy. The charvonita;, ufually called a ducat by foreigners, is a gold coin of the value of nine (billings and fiM (lencc. The religion of the Ruffians is that of the Greek church. They had a patriarch at Mofcow, until Peter I. laid him afide, and feicing on the lands and revenues of the patriarchate, declared himfelfapoflolicat head of the empire. They ftill howc/er have five metropolitan difirifls, fourteen archbifliopticks, and fix bifhoprickt, all well endowed. The fecular priefts have neither glebe nor tithes, but depend upon the perqui- fites which arife from their office, and feldom preach but in Lent. They deny the pope's fupremacy, and abhor the worfhip of images { but have in their churches many piAures of faints, to which as media- tors they often addtefs their prayers. They have four Lents, which take up near half the year, and ihey obferve their falls with great flri£tnefs. There are many monafleries and nunneries, but by a regulation of Peter I. no woman is permitted to take the vow until fhe be fifty years of age, nor admitted till then into a cloyfler. The priefls are allowed to marry, but not the bifhops. The doiSrine of tranfub- flantiation prevails in the Greek church i and they believe that the Holy Ghoft does not proceed from the Son. The ancient nobility of Ruffia were flyled knes or knazcy, boyars and vaivods. The firft were dukes or fovereign princes, on the fubje^lion of whom the duke of Ruffia diftinguifhed himfeif by the title of Great Duke. The boyars were the nobility of the feveral duchies, and the vaivods were governors of pro* It At Russia] GENERAL TRAVELLER. "m of province). The honours of kncz or boyari are at prerL'iit IclJom conferred on any fubjctHi having given pbcc to (he more moJrrn litlci of princes, counts, snJ margravci, as in Germany. The cdalcs of thofe propriciori ate divided ccjually among their foni, the younger enjoying the fume title as their elder brother. Every mifler may punilh bis fcrvant with the batogs or knouir, in the infli£ling which puniOiment the offender is flretched on the ground naked, and beaten with (licks by two fellows till he is almoft ready to expire. Even officers of rank in the (late are fome> times thus puni(hed by their fuperiors. I'he parental suthority is greavr in this empire than in any other part of Europe. A father has an abfo- lute power over his children; and neither age nor (ex can exempt a fon or daughter from obedience to his jurifdi£lion. This right they found upon the principle that parents have nothing but the happinefs of their children in view, and confequently that they ought not to be accountable to any perfon fur their conduA towards them. The right of hufbands over their wives is here alfo unlimited. The hufband is the proprietor of his wife, and confiders her as part of his gooHs, which he may difpufe (.f as he pleafes. In the northern and caftern parts of the empire, the wives of the common people reckon it a fingular honour to be beaten by their hufbands. The power which the proprietors of fiefs have ufurped over their (laves is almoft abfolute. Formerly a mafler might have killed his (lave without any re- ferve ; but this pradice is now prohibited, though the mafter may yet, with impunity, beat him in fo terrible a manner that he (hall die of the bruifes or wounds. The ordinary charge of law-fuits it very moderate in Ruffia, but the judges are extremely corrupt, and the lawyers in general remarkably ignorant in their profeflion. There are in Ruflia four univerfities, viz, thofe of Mofcow, Kiow, Chernikow, and Harkow j with two academies, one at Mofcow, and the other at Peterf- burg. Evrty day the progrefs of learning becomes here more perceptible; and the fine arts as well as the fciences begin to be fuccefsfully cultivated under the patronage of the emprefs. The government of Ritfila pays particular atten- tion to thofe falutary regulations which concern the health of the people. Every furgeon is obliged in difficult cafes to call for the advice of fome re> gular phyfician or fenior furgeon, whether the cafe be internal, or purely chirurgical; nor dare a fur- geon perform any operation without previoully hav- ing had the advice or concurrence of fuch, if pof- ftble to be got. If the patient (hould die, or be treated unfuccefsfully where this precaution has been neglected, the furgeon would r.ot efcape punilh- ment. The fame obligation of calling a(ri(tance, when it can be procured, extends to the body of phyficiant. At every eminent apothecary's (hop, a good furgeon ii No. 20. appointed, with a fufficient falary, to attend daily two hours, forenoon and afternoon, to give advice to the poor ; and if fuch are not able to pay fur the mrJicinvs, they are furniflicd by the apothecary at the cxpence of the emprefs. If any perfoii, not having a licence from the medicine chancer}', (hould prefume tndifpcnfe medicines to patients, the penalty it no Icfs than to (affct the knute, to be fent to the gallies during pleafure, and to have all his effefls confifcated, one half to the emprefs, and the other to the in- former. The conftitution of RulTia is that of an abfolute government, and the crown hereditary; but indances have frequently occurred in which the fenate and great lords have determined the right of fucceffion even to the prejudice of proximity of blood. The empire of RuOia formerly confided of a multi- tude of petty fovereigns, ufually (tiled dukes, till after the beginning of the feventeenth century, when the various provinces were reduced under the fubjeAion of one fovercign, who afTumed the name of the Great Duke, and was fometimes called Ciar or CKfar. Michael, the (irft fovercign of the whole empire, was fucceeded by his fon Alexis Michaelowitz, in the year 1645, after whofe death his fon Theodore Alexo- witz afcended the throne, who dying without ilTue, in 1682, appointed John his brother by the fame mother, and Peter his half brother, to reign jointly, as they did till the year 1696, when czar John died, leaving three daughters, viz. the princefs Anne, mar- ried to the duke of Courland, Catherine, married to the duke of Mecklenburg Schwerin, and Profcovia, who died unmarried. Czar Peter, who was the fon of Alexis Michaelo- witz, by his fecond wife, married the princefs Ot- tokefa Federowna, a fubjefl of Rudia, by whom he had ilTue the czarowitz Alexis, born in 1690 ; but was divorced from her in 169s. The czaro> witz married Charlotta Chriftina Sophia, daughter of Lewis Adolphus, duke of Brunfwick-Wolfem- buttle, and died in prifon in 1721, while under fentence of death for a confpiracy againft his father Pete.' the Great. The latter next married the lady Catherina Alexowna, in 171 1, «ith whom he had cohabited fome time before, and had ilTue by her the princefs Anne, and the princefs Elizabeth, the former of whom was married to the duke of Hol« (lein. On the death of Peter the Great in 1724, the czarina Catherine afcended the throne, and dying in I 727, appointed for her fucce(ror prince Peter, fon of the late czarowitz, and grandfon of Peter the Great; but this prince dying foon after, the crown devolved on the princefs Anne, ducheft dowager of Courland, On the demife of this emprefs in 1 740, (he was fucceeded by prince John, an infant fix months old. Ton of the duke of Brunfwick-Wolfembuttle, and of Anne his wife, daughter of the duke of Meck- lenburg, and of the princefs Catherine, eldeft daughter of late czar John. But by a fudden revolution next year, the princefs Elizabeth, fecond daughter of Peter ;.- the Great, wai advanced to the throne. This emprefs Go* adopted i I t4a H M D E R N [Europe. idopted for her licir the duke of Holftein, who wat defcended from her eldcft filler ; caufing him ifter- wirdi to be ftilcd grand duke of Ruflia. He mariicd the princcfi Catherine Aicxowoa, duughier of the prince of Anhalt Zerbft who on the death r.f her hufband in 1764, fucceeded to the throne, and it at prefcnt cmprcfi of Ruffia. So late i.' the bi'ginnini; of the prcfeiit crntury' the empire of Rullia continurd to be involved in a Rate uf batbarifm, till by the extraordinary gcniui, and in indefatigable exertion of the rzar Peter, who hai juflly obtained the name of Grear, it bat already made fuch progrefa in civlliiition, at bids fiir tij rival the inoft poliflicd nationi in Europe. w E N. TH E kingdom of Sweden is bounded on the north by Norwegian Lapland, on the eaft by the territories of Ruflia, on the fouth by the Baltic Sea, and on the weft by Norway ; being fituated between 10 and 30 degrees of eaft longitude, and between 5b and 69 degreet of north latitude, extend- ing upward! of eifiht hundred n.iles in length from north to fouth, and in breadth five hundred. This country has a very tugged furface, incumbered with barren rocks and mountains} nor is it lefs diverfified by drcaiy forefti, extenfive marflies, and great lakes. Of the latiLi the principal are the Meller, the VVener, and the Weter, on the fouth-weft, with thofe of Cajania and Jende in Finland. The chief hills are the Oofrine, which fjparate the kingdom from Nor- way. Here are numerous torrents which fall precipi- tately from the mountains, but not many navigable rivers. The moft confidcrable are thofe of Torne, Kimi, Lula, and Uma in Swedifli Lapland, which difcharge themfelves into the north part of the Bothnic Gulf; that of Dalicarlia, which rifing in the Dofrine hills, runs from weft to eaft, and falls likewife into the Gulf of Bothnia { and that of Kymen in Finland, which runs from the lake of Jende fouthward, and falls into the Gulf of Finland. The air is almoft conftantly clear and healthful, but in winter exceflive cold. This feafon is ufu- lly followed by four months during which the heat of the climate is equally intenfe. In no place is the conftitution of the atmofphere tem- perate, and in many the ground is covered with fnow during the greater part of the year. The extreme length of the days about Midfummer renders the flies . fo numerous, that they will fometimes cover a difli of meat in the time of a meal. In winter, though the fun is not more than four or five hours above the horizon, the inhabitants have fo long a twilight, and fo much of the moon, that they travel ulmoft as well in the night as the day, the whitenefs of the fnow contributing much to the light ; and fometimes the Aurora Borealis, which is here very frequent, fliines with far greater luftre than in the fouthern climates. Thofe phenomena are vifible chiefly in the beginning of the year, and about the new and full moon. Sweden is ufually diftinguifhed into fix great divifions, viz. Lapland, Sweden Proper, Gothland, Finland, the German dominions, and the Swedifli iflands. Laphind lies in the north part of the kingdom, and is fubdivided into Tornca, Lapmark, Kimi-Lapmark, Lula-Lapmark, Pithla-Lnpmarl-, with Eaft and Weft Bothnia. The chief town of :his divifion is Tornr, fituate at the bottom of the Bothnic Gulf, on an ifland in the mouth of the river Tornca, in 24 degrees of eaft longitude, and in 65 degrees 5 1 minutes of north latitude, about four hundred miles ncitu of Stockholm. In this part of the country are fevctil copper and iron mines, the working of which ^luTds employment to a great number of people ; but the ban k. s of the river Tornca, for a hundred miles noiihw.irJ of the town, are moflly innabited by fiflicriTicn, who traflic with their fuuthern neighbours, cxchiinging falted and dried fifti, furs, and fkins, for iloathiiig and provifions, as the foil of Lapland produces hardly any corn or vegetables. Inftead of bread the natives generally grind the inner bark of a fir tree, which, being made into a pafte and baked, they eat with the fleih of their rein-deer, or ftlh dried upon the rocks. Sweden Proper lies in the middle of the kingdom, and is divided into ten provinces, viz. Uplandia, Sudermania, Weftmania, Nericia, Geftricia, Helfin- gia, Dalicarlia, Medelpedia, Jemptia, and Anger- mania. The chief town is Stockholm, the metro- polis of the kingdom, fituate in 19 degrees 30 minutes of eaft longitude, and in 60 degrees of north latitude. It ftands on feven fmall iflands or rocks, that part which is properly called the city not being more than a mile and a half in circumference, but the fjburbs extending on the main land to a confiderablc diflai.ce north and fouth. Almoft all the ftreets are flrep and inconvenient for carriages, but the houfcs arc luriy and handfome. In the midft of the rapiial ftands the royal palace, a fquare building, on a fteep hill, which commands an extenfive prufpei^ of the neighbouring country. Here are nine churches, the chief of which is that of St. Nicholas, fupported by marble pillars. The roof is covered with copper, as are nidd other of the confiderablc edifices in this city. Stockholm is naturally (o well defended by its infular fituation, that it hat never been fortified. The haibcur, where it is entered, is fpacious and fecurc; but the pafTage being extremely difficult, on account nut only of (he number of iflands, but the variety of ihe winds necef- fary for the navigation, and the dtficieiicy of tides, the ftation of the royal navy is at Cirlefcruon. The houfes in the city of Stockholm are built of brick or ftone, but many of thofe in the fubutbs are of timber. UpCil befide of MJ the Helm other miles Th count oak and they hemp inexh their them fcrtil wher the I SWEDKN.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 243 VpM ii fitukte ill 11 degreei 15 minutei of eaft loiigiiuJe, mil in 59 degrees 5J minutei of north Ulitudr, in the middle cf » (pacioui plain upon the rivrr Sal.i, about forty mile* north of Stockhalm. 'I' hi J city v/t% anciciuiy the icfidence of the kingi of Sweden, and in much older than cb« prefcnc mriiupulis. 'i he houfei are moflly of wood, nor li there one . public ur private edifice of ftone. Here is an univer- fiiy cont.iining .about fifteen hundred ftudenti, who in general are milerably accommodated in wretched hovels aniidll dirt and penury. 'I'lie adjacent country, and indeed alinoll the whole province, is chiefly a horrid defert, covered v/ith huge (tones, or impenetrable woods, incapable of cultivation, and dcftitute of in- habitants. The quantity of land employed in tillage will hardly bear the propoitioa of one to twenty, Thofc barren wades, however, are eniiched with in- cxIiaulUblc mines of coppci, iron, and lilver. Nykopping, the capital of Sudermania, is Atuate on a bay of the Bal.ic I'ca, about fifty miles foulh-wed of Stockholm ; and Hcdmora, capital of Dalicarlia, lies fixty miles north well of Upfal. Gothland i< the moii fouthcrly of the grand divifloni of Sweden, and contains the following fubdivifions, viz. Eall-Guthland, Weft- Gothland, and South- GothlanJi each of which is again didinguiflied into difTcrent provinces. Eatt-Gothland comprehends Eall- Gothland Proper and Smalland) Weft-Gothland is divided into Weft- Gothland Proper, Wermeland, and Daliaj and South-Gothland includes Schonen, Blelcin, and Halland. The capital of all the Gothlands is Goitenburg, a port-town, fituate in la degrees 15 minutes of eaft longitude, and in ^j degrees 4; minutes of north latitude. It lies ou the coall of the Schag- gerac Sea without the Sound, and is the mod commo- dious fur trade of any town in Sweden. Lindkopping, the capital of Eait-Gothland, ftandi on the river Motala, a hundred and twenty miles eaft of Gottcn- burg. Carelfcroon, which is the (lation of the Swedilh navy, is fituate on the coall of the Baltic, in 1 5 degreei 5 minutei of eaft longitude, and 56 degrees 15 minutes of north latitude. Lund, or Lunden, the capital of Schonen, lies about thirty miles ead of Copenhagen ; bcfides which the province contains the two port-towns of Malmac and Helfingburg, the former oppofite to the ide of Zealand, and the latter to Helfinora. Helmftadt, capital of the province of Halland, is an- other port- town near the entrance of the Sound, ninety miles fouth of Gottenburg. The vail forefts which overfpread this extenfive country afford excellent timber for building vith the latter article the people muft continue to fupply themfelves annually fiom Poland, fill they become more animated with the fiiirit of agriculture than they have hitherto been. The Ciittle hero are not liirge, but hardy, and the horri-a will endure great labour. 7'he rein-deer are peculiar to Lapland, and will not live in a warmer climate. Such as are moll wild run towards the north as the fun approaches them every yciir. Thcfe animals refemble the other fpecirs of deer in fhapc and colour, but have a flatter foot, anJ are flronger built, ferving the inhabitants fur draught and carriage, as well as food. The twigs and barks of trees are the fub- fiAence in which they chiclly delight, but when thofe cannot be piocured, they will dig a yard deep through the (now to come at the mofs and weeds. The Swedes are in general a well-made, (trong and ai^lve people, and can fuflain the greated haidfhips. The common women, befidcs their domcflic bufinefs, perform all the ordinary works of labour without doors as will as the men. They till the ground, carry burdens, and even row upon the water. Such as praAife thofe occupations are almofl as tawny as the Laplanders, but the women that keep within doors have complexions as fair as the Britifb, and like the other northern nations, for the mod part didinguifhed by golden locks. The ufual drefs differs little from that of the Ger> mans. In winter, the better fort wrap themfelves up in double furs, and the red make ufe of flieep-fkins with the wool on. The Swedes, though well qualified by natu : for aflion, are far from being indudrioi:^, and their in- dolence is accompanied with a degree of rcferve, which afTumes the appearance of pride. Even the lower orders of the gentry would think themfelves degraded by following a liberal profefCon, or exercifing any kind of traffick. There being few who apply to any particular trade, it is ufual among the i.'ommon people for every man to make his own cloaths, and indru- ments of hufbandry, which is however performed for the moft part in a very bungling manner. Intem- perance in drinking is common to the Sv/edes with the other nations of the North. The firft thing prC" fented to a ftranger that vifits them ii a bowl of wine or fpirits; and they are apt to be offended if he rife from the table pcrfedly fober. There is a profufion of difhes at their entertainments, but no tafte in the arrangement or difpofition of them. The table groans beneath a number of covers, which are all brought in at once, and then left to cool during a ceremonious meal of at lead two hours. But before they fit down to dinner the company eat bread and butter, which they walh down with a glafs of brandy. The diverfions are chiefly hunting, and in the winter running races with fledges, which is alfo the moft ufual way of travelling in that feafon. With refpe^ to the high-ways, they are much better than might be expedled in fo rugged a country ; but the inns are in general extremely bad, and in fome parts the inhabitants are fo few that one may travel many miles without feeing fo much as a but. i Tht «u THE MOD R N [Euxopr. The dominion* of Sweden are ilmoft m cxtcnfive ■I thoC* of Frituce, yet, aecorJing to ■ cocnputttion nude in 1770) thry do not contain mora thin two niillion* thrca hundred and fifty thoufand inhabitant! | a number not fufficient to cultivate the earth, nolwith- Aanding the people are cmployini; all podible methods to introduce manufaAurc* into their country. That Sweden, however, was much more populous in former timet, it apparent not only from the number of ruined old boufes to be fcen in diflferent parti of the kingdom, but alio from the exportation of corn in ihofe dayi i while on the contrary, at prefcnt they are obliged to import a great part of the necefTaries of life, The plague and fweaiing ficknefi, which raged hert in the end of the lad and the beginning of the prefent century, carried off feveral hundred thoufand perfona ; befidca which, about the former of thofe periodi, great nnmberi pcriflied of famine in the different pro- vinces. So little encouragement haa been given to agriculture in this kingdom, for two hundred years pad, that in the moft fertile provinces, very extenfive tra£ls of land remain uncultivated, though at prefent the in- habitants do not grow a fufficient quantity of grain for their own confumption. On this account, much ia imported every year from Ruflia, Courland, and Pomeraniat and other kinds cf provifion, fuch as butter, cheefe, fait meat, rice, beer, tie. are annually brought from Britain and Ireland, notwithftanding fome of the Swedifh provinces abound in pafture. Iron alone conftitutes near three fourths of the Swedifli exports, and this, befidea feveral other articles, is entirely monopolized by foreigners, to the great detriment of the commercial intereft of the country. The other moft confiJerable exports are, copper, wood, brafs-wire, tar, pitch, pipe-ftaves, herrings, dried cod-fifli, and train-oil. It is computed that their exports, at an average, amount annually to 13,845,762 dollars, lilver mint i and their import trade, which confifta of grain, materials for manu- fafiure, fugar, coffee, hemp, flax, and fundry other articles, amount to 13,409,666 dollars filver mints a coin nearly equal in value to an EngliOi fhilling. According to this computation, Sweden mufl foon be exhaufted of all the little wealth fbe has, were flie not fupported by the money fpent by foreigner* in her different provinces, and what flie receives in fub- fidiet from other courts. It is no fmall part of the pernicious policy of the Swedilh government to keep the farmers in a diftreffed ftate. Every perfon in this clafs is prohibited by law to retain more than one fervant to affift him in the cul- tivation of his land, if he has ever fo great a quantity. He is alfo forbidden to make a divifion of hit farm, and thereby to multiply the number of labourers. Whoever attempts to cultivate fmall parcels of lands are declared, every year from the pulpit, to be vaga- bond*, and are forced into the military fervice, from which they never can be releafed except they are maimed or difabled. This order of men is alfo pro- hibited from purchaf ng any of the free eftates in the kingdom i and whatever lands ihey can legally obtttn X mud be burdened with the maintrnanct of foldieri. The more to increafe their npprtOion, this tak Is never levied on the free lands of the nobiliiy, who in thia kingdom amount to ten thoufand nine hundred. Sweden it not a little ImpoverlfheJ, and the induflry of the inhabitants checked, by the premature inlro- duflion of m4nufa£)ure<, before the inuntry was fuA- ciiiitly peopled, and the land as much cultivated a* to fupply the fruits of the earth at a moderate price, without the ncceffity of importation. When Sweden has a bad harveft, as (he has no magazines, and cannot fpeedily get afliftance from foreign countries, efpecially in the winter, at which time her pom are frozen up, many pcrfont are conllrained to quit the kingdom. I'hii is alfu the cafe when a fingle province labour* under the f^me difadvantage, there being no internal commun'caiion between the feveral parrs of the country. Hence it frequently happens that the inhabitants of one province labuur under a great want, while thuf<: of another abound with a fupi-rfiuiry, for which they can find no vent but under great difficulties. The flanding revenues of Sweden anfe from the crown-landi, the cufloms and excifes) the capitation- tax, the filver and copper mines, and other lefs con- fiderable particulars. It is computed that the whole amounts annually to about 10,104,406 dollars filver mint, which in the year 1769, when the pound (ier- ling was worth fifty-one copper dollars, was about 594,180 1. Of this fum the crown-lands produce near one third, and the cuftom* another. The capi- laiion-tax is levied only upon the farmer*, each of whom between the ages of fixteen andfixiy, pays yearly about an Englifti (hilling, or fomeihing more. Almoft one third of all the revenues of the kingdom I* ap- propriated to the fupport of the royal family, and the remainder to that of the civil and iLilitary eAablifli- menia. Sweden at prefent labour* under a debt of five millions fterling, a fum which in fo poor a country can never be paid, and muft remain a great load not only on the fprings of government, but the commcr> cial intereft of the nation. The military eftablifltment confifls of the militia of Sweden and Finland, amounting to near thirty- eight thoufand men, with about four thour.ind rej>uiar troops in Pomerania, and the regiment of fuot-guarda containing two thoufand mm. Above the ordinary pay, the gover.iment hat aitnrxed to each regiment feveral fupernumerary farms, to anfwer any extra* ordinary accidents, and to furnifh a fubfidrnce for fuch officeit as are pad fervice. For the commoa foldiers who are rendered unfit fur military duty, there is one general bofpital, which haa a good fund. The maritime force of Sweden is at prefent in a very weak ftate, confiding of about tw-nty old (hipa of the line, the half of which is rotten and unfit for fea, with ten or eleven frigate* or floops of war, almoft in the fame fttuation. The edabllflied religio.i in Sweden is Luther* anifnn. The church is governed by an archbiOiop and ten bilhops, whofe revenues are very moderate, that . • 6 » 1 11 L • - ■ tl ► - • il c » a \y li l( 1 fjk 1 c • i jtjg l< 1 t t . jlWHtfcifc^ « t 1 ' ^ «■ ■ 1 c n b i 1 ! ■ , • 1 • • i i a 1 ■f ^^ 1-!'] P! ■ IP 1 c t 1 1 ( 1 L-5 m ■ ^ < 1 W "-^' 1 iWf/ /i'm^m/^cZ/a/'^y o/aiZ/ftrrtft) /U/noN of^.^^ *, 1; ( ) ' ' ■ , . ■ • ' ^ fiwiDEN,] GENERAL TRAVELLER- US thai of the former nut being mur* ihin four hundred poundi • year, . t oilicri ciuiftiitrtbly lefi. Under ihuft are (cvfn b, _,. hundred ruperintendanti, win enjoy the Time puwer . • ihe biftiopi ( and to every leii chunho ii a provoD or dean, invclltd wiih fume authority over Ihe inferior iler^jy. The number of the Utirr In Sweden and Finland li computed at two ihoufand, which, with the addition of chaplaini and curatei, may mike the whole body of ecclefiafticki amniMil to near four ihoufiiiid. For many yean Ihe government of Sweden had been that of a limited monarchy, in which however, till latel;', the ancient power of the crown wai altnoft totally annihilated by the ufurpation of the ftatci. This body ii compofed of four orderi, the nobility, clergy, citizcni, and firmers. The QiA of ihofe have • hereditary right to vote in the dlet( and this privi- lege it likewife griinted to the colonel, lieutenant- colonel, major, and one captain of each regiment. They keep their feaii according to the antiquity of their family, and not according to their rank or func- tiona. They aflemble at Stockholm, or fend hither their deputici, and cleft their fpeaker, who hM the title of land-marlhal, and ii entitled to k gratuity of ■bout five thoufand poundi at the end of the diet. The right of creating a nobleman was veiled in the crown I but it depended upon the aflembly of the nobles to receive the objeA of royal favour into their body, and permit him to h^ve a feat in their huufe, Perfons of thii order enjoy very great and important immunities I fuch as being alone entitled to the high oiBcei under the crown, and all the principal pofts in the army. They are alfo exempted from the land and capitation- tax. I'he citixen ii legally capacitated to purchafe a nobleman'i eftate I but Ance the nobles have been expofed to a diminution of their finances, on account of the fubdivifion of their eftatej among their families, they frequently difpenfe with this privl> lege, A nobleman's daughter alfo, by marrying be> low the rank of nobility, not only enjoys the privilege of nobility herfelf, but trankfers the fame right to her hufl>and and children, fo far as concerns the poflelBon of their eftates. The order of the clergy is compofed of the wch> bilhop of Upfal, who is gener.-vlly their fpeaker, the hilhup of each diocefe, a member from each chap''*r, with a peiTon eleifted out of every ten p.iri(hes. The number of the whole rs about a hundred and feventy. Their expciiccs during the diet are defrayed by a fubfeription of the clergy ; and both they and their children have the privilege of purchat'ing the eftates of noblemen. - The reprefentatives of the citizens are chofen by the magiftrates and common- council of each corporation; of which Stockholm fends four, other cities two, and fome one ; there being fome fmall corporations where two join together to fend one reprefentative. This order confifts of about a hundred and fifty members They ate maintained during the diet at the expencc of their fellow-citizens, and their fpeaker is generally one of the burgomalleri of 'Stockholm, No< at- Every diftrIA ftnds ■ member front iffloit^ th« fsrmeri who are in poflVfflon of the crown lands, no other having any right to fit in the diet. This order comprifts about • hundred and eighty, and their ex' pencei are defrayed by their (el low- farmers. The firtl meeting of the diet, when it aiTembles al Stockholm, Is in t large room of the ctftle, called the hall of the kingdom, where the king being feated on • throne, and the fenate it fame diftance, th« prefidcnt of the chancery makes the diet a compliment in Ihe king'a name, and then a fecretary reads to them his majelty'i propofali, acquainting them with tb« ftate of affairs fince their recefs, and the prcfeni oc« cafion of their advice and ailinancc. To this lb* marflul of the nobility firft reiurni in anfwer, and kilTet the king's hand i after which the fame ceremonf is ^t formed Sy each of the other orders. The ftaiet then refolve them(elvet into different committCM, the principal of which is the f.-cretcom^ nitiM, wbfli* the journals of the fenate and the ac< counts of the exchequer are revifed, and where th« feftign, a* wall u the moll fecret affairs of the king* dom, are examined. This fommiitee confifta of foitjr members, who art chofen out of the four orders of ths (latca in pleno, at it is termed. The plenum ii fummooid hy the land-marlhal on any important emcrgencjr. Everjr rtfolution muft have the fanftioa at leaft of three orden before it can be received at « law. Such wu the government of Sweden at the death of the late king, when the flates entertained the defiga of aboliOiing fo far all the efiential prerogatives of th« foverelgn, u to render him Utile more than the prefi* dent of the fenate i but by u fudden revolution, well planned, and condnfied with great dexterity, tht prefent king. In the year 1771, emancipated the crown from the fevtre reftriAions which the ufurpation of forn?er diets had impofed upon it i and fince this period Ihe SwcdiOi finreicigu mjoys almoft abfolute power. No certain account ia tranfmitted of the government of Sireden before the thirteenth century, at which lime the crown wu eleAive, and its prerogativet greatly limited. The king had not the power to mak« either peace or war, much left to raife anjr money or levy any troopt without the confent of tha ftatet. He was not even permitted to build any new fortificationa, nor to give the government of any of the caftlet but to a native Swedes and he would infalliUjf be expofed to a general revolt had he attempted to bring any foreign troopt into the kingdom. Tha king was only confidered at captain- general of tha army duri'iig the time of war, and in peace at pre* fident of the fenate. This body, which was ufuallf compofed of twelve of the principal perfons in the fiate, had almoft the whole authority, Thearchbilhop of Upfal, primate of Sweden, wat alwayt a fenator by hit epifcopal dignity 1 but the fix bifliops, though veiled with great power, had no right to be fenatora but by the nomination of the king, or by the cboioa of the lenate during an inter-rcgnum. The place af fenator was not hereditary, but conferred by the crown. Ppp Tke '5! ;.a H «46 T |I B MODERN [Europe. m The feqate which, by its.inftitution, wm only eftab- li&ed u the king's privy-coiMicil, extended iu autho- riiy fo far ai even to rcri^tinize the conduf^ of the priocei and the feoator aff>Miicd ,thf rig^. of advifing the fuvereign when he exccpled the !i|i^its ^f hi« power. The clergy pofle/Ted more property than the Lliig and all the other orders of the ftate to^«th{r> For befide* the hisdi annexed to the biii!jpriclu, whiph confittcd in large iTianors and fiefs, they were become mafters in their refpeflive diocefes of the fuceeflion of all ecclefiaii.'clu who died intcftate; and this fource, in procefs of t'me, had greatly increafed their revenue. They alfo enjoyed the fines and confifcations within ^eir :efpe^ive diocefes, and had infenfibly acquired l^y foundations and pious legacies many fiefs of the ciown. While the revenues of the clergy were thus continually augmenting, they could diminiQi neither by fales or alienations, both which were exprefly for- bidten.by the laws. Thofs haughty prelates, proud of tLeir riches and the numbet of their vsJals, b;.came fo many petty fovereigns. They fortified their c^itles, and conftantly kept garrifons in them} n(>; did they ever tal'.e any journey without being accompanied by a ftrong i^arty of irmed me>;, whom they retained in the <)uaJity of guards. The early ages of the Swed,i/h hiftory appear to have been little more than a continued fcenc of fedi- tions, ravages, and revolts. About the year 13C4, ikne fovereign of the country was Magnus Smeck. This prince had by the daughter of the count of Namur two fons ; the eldeft of whom being deid, the inhabitants of Norway elected for their king the fecond fon Haquin, who was married to Margaret, daughter of Valdomar king of Denmark. Magnus being aflured of the Norwegians, and fnrtified by the alliance of the king cf Denmark, attempted to abplifli the fenate of Sweden and render himftlf abfolute HiaAer of the kingdom. The people however difcover- ing his defign, took up arms, and the country beca-ne the theatre of a bloody war. T^e king- of Dc.imark lent a confiderable force to the adift^nce of hii/ ally, as did likewife the king of Norw^iy; but the Swedes gaining the viAory in feveral b'ttles, drove Magnus «ut of the kingdom, and ele£^ed, in hi< room, his nephew, prince Albert of Miclcleoluig. '^ae new king purfuing the meafures 01 his predecefibr, became alfo in a Ihort time fo obnoxioo to his fubje^s, that they made an offer uf the crown to Margaret above mentioned, at this tinje queen both of Denmark and ^lorway. She readily embrac(;d the propofal, and uniting her troops with thofe of . tbe Swedes, they expelled Albert the kingdom. During the reign of this queen, flie obtained Henry of Pomeranra, grandfon of her eldeft fifter, to be 'Cledtcd fuccelTor to the three kingdoms after her de- 4Bif«-| and his name was changed to that of Eric. This prince, however, proving no left ambitious than ttiiB, former kings,, foon net with the iame fate, and ;th* crown was conferred on Catiutefon, great matflial •f the kingd«ai. Caqutefeo, at hit death, recom- mended Steno Sture, his nephew, to fucceed in quality of adminiftrator of Sweden, fearing to excite the jealou/jT of the great lords and bifliops by a more elevated title. Chriftian the Firft of Denmark ufed •tvery expedient to aboliOi this dignity, and to obtain 'be re-e(labli(hment of the Union of Calmar, dy which it had been ordained that the three crowns of Sweden, Dc;nmiik, and Norway, fliould be enjoyed by the fame peiCon. He attempted to efFuAuate hit purpofe fometimes by negociation, and fometimes by force of arms. During four anr*. forty years this prince and * his fon reigned in Sweden, aiiernately with the admi- nifcrators Steno and Suanto Sture; the two former, and the two latter being at the fame time maftcrs of different provinces in Sweden, according at their re* fpeflive parties happened to prevail. Such was the Aate of this country, continually rent by foreign and donieftic fadlions, wh.-n a great rcvo* lutiou laid the foundation of the S ;vedifh monarchy, through the means ot Guftavus Vafa, the firfl king of the family which now potTcfTis the throne. This prince was defcended from the ancient king* of Sweden, but had been reduced fo low that he wat obliged to work in the copper mines of Dalicarlia for fubfiftence. In this fituaticn he prevailed with tbe miners, and the nrighbouring peafants, to aflift him in an attempt to throw oiF the Daniih yoke, under which the nation then groaned. For tbi$ purpofe having afTembled a confideruble force, he furpiifed fttveral pofls that were occupied by the Danes, and drove them entirely out of the kingdom. This event wa& immediately followed by his ele£tion to the vacant crown, which he received at Upfal in the year 1528. As the bifhops and popifh ..lergy had appeared his greatefl enemies, he introduced the Lutheran doArinei, and feized the revenues of the church, by appropriating the greater part of which to the fcrvice of the ftate, he was enabhd to eafe the people of their taxes; an expedient which rendered hi.r. very popular. His .~eign, however, was frequently dilurbed by the intrigue:^ of the clergy, as well as t^. invalions of the Danes, who attempted to rer^vcr the i:ingdom; but proving fuccefiful ever r.'A his iicmics, and marrying the' princefs Katherine, daugi.tcr of Magnus duke of Sax- Lawenburg, his eldeft foi: by this marriag;, Eric Attg'iftus, was declared his fucceflbr, and th : crowa made herTjitary by the ftates in 1546. At the fame tim : the catholic religion wu abolifhed by authority j and the fovereigns of Sweden have ever fince taken an oath, at their icceifion, to maintain the do&rines of Luther. Eric mounted the throne in 1559, and reigned nine years, five of which he kept his brother John in prifon, on fufpicion of forming a defign to fupplant him. Though at this time tbe king's upprebenfions feem to havt: been entirely £round)efs, they were afterwards realized, but not until by fevei!;! cruel and difhorjur- able adtioni he had lofl the ftvour of his fubje<5b, by whom he wot depofed, and condemned to pr.- petual imprifonment, . in which he ended his life. Hit Sweden.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 847 Hit brother John aflumuig the reini of government ■ with the confenc of the people, endeivoureii to refture the Roman Catholic religion, but dying in 1592, be wai fucceeded by hi; fon Slgifmund, then upon the throne of Poland. I'his prince perfifting to violate the laws of the kingdom in fevrr.ii inlUnces, the .Satei, in 1604, conferred the crown on his imcle .Cbkrlea, in whofe family they fettled the fticceffion, to the exclufion of the ifl'ue of Sigifmund. The new Icing dymg in 161 1, he was fucceeded by hii fon, the celebrated tiuftavue Ad^l^htls, fhen only; nineteen yean of age, but already diftingui(hed by his courage and military talents. This prince finding the kingdom engaged in an unfortunate war with the Danes and Ruflians, purchafed peace of the former,' at the price of a million of crowns, and maintained the war againft the latter, over whom he proved vic- torious in feveral battles, forcing them in the end to cede the territories of Hcxholm and Ingennania to the_ Swedes. The truce which had beeti made viHth Poland^ being expired, he invaded Livonia, and made himfelf matter of the whole province; whence marching into Pruflia, he took Elblng, Marienburg, and feveral other towns, which were confirmed to Sweden by a fubfequent treaty, Guilavua being afterwards induced to carry the war into Germany, his arms were attended in this quarter alfo with extraordinary fuccefs, till he was treachcroufly killed at the battle cf Luteen, in an engagement with the imperial troops. By this event the crown defcended to his daughter Chriftina, then only five years of age, in whofe favour Guftavos Adolphus had gained the ftates of the king- dom to alter the' aA which limited the fuccellton to the male line. During her minority the war in Ger- many was profecuted with great advantage 10 Sweden, which, at the treaty of Munfter, obtained the duke- doms of Pomerania, Bremen and Verden, with the city of Wifmar, befides the fum of five millions of crowns, and a right of feffion to vote in the diet of the empire, and circle of Lower Saxony. When this queen, who was not lefs diulnguiftied by her rank than 'her extraordinary talents, arrived at years of refleflion, fhc refolved to quit the crown, and accordingly in 1654, reflgned it in favour of her nephew Charles Guftavus, referving only a portion for the fupport of her dignity. She afterwards pro- feflcd herfelf a Roiiian Catholic, and retired to ■> convent in Rome, where (he palled the remalndei ot her life, fignalized as much by her virtues as fhe had formerly been by her excellent conduiEl in the adminif- tration of her kingdom. The war ftill continuing between Sweden and Poland, the new king immediately marched into the latter, where his arms at fii^ were accompanied with extraordinary fuccefs. In lefs than three months he not only obliged Caftmlr, the Polifh king, to take refuge in Silefia, but alfo made himfelf mufler of a great part of thi kingdom, the fubjc£ls of which, in many places, acknowledged him as their fovercign, and took an oath of allegiance. This rapid fuccefs howevek' proved of Ihort duration; for marching into 4 Silefia, nor only the Poles revolted, but feveral of the northern poiwers united to oppofe him. Leaving hio brother therefore governor of Pruffia, he marched ittlm mediately to chp'Kse the Danes, whor' he reduced (o the neceflity of furrendering the provinces of Schoher, Halland, and Bleaking, with the iftand'of Bornholm. This treaty was concluded at Rolthild in the vear 1658,' but the Danes faun ikUt i^epfentlng of th^'ion- ceflion they had made, the war broke out again in*a 'few months. ' In confequen(:e of this rupture, the Swediih king landed an army the following fummtr ih Zealand, where he took the caftic of Crowenburg, which commands the entrance of the Scjnd, and be- fieged Copenhagen. . From the gallant defence of the inhabitants, however, and the afliftance which they received from Holland, le ftege was turned into a blockade, and continued (o for feme time ; (ill Charles Guftavus having by his entcrprifing fpirit drawn upon ,himfelf the enmity qf almoft all Europe, was carried t>iF by a fever, and' left the crown to his fon Charles the Eleventh, then a minor, whofe minifters obtained peace from Poland, Mufcovy, the emperor, Branden- burg, Holland, ai}d Denmark, upon honourable terms. On the commencement of the war in 1674, the Swedes broke the alliance into which they had en- tered a little before vvith England and Holland, and forming a league with France, invaded Brandenburg. Their forces however were defeated by that ele£lor, who made hinifelf mailer of mod of their territories in Pomerania, while the duke of Zell entered firemen and Verden, and the Danes recovered feveral towns in Schoqen, But th; latter being afterwards defeated in feveral battles, were compelled to make a fepara^e peace with Sweden at St, Qermains. This tranfafiiqn was fucceed by the treaty of Nimeguen in 1678, by which the Swedes obtained reftitution of all the terri- tories that had been taken From ,them during the war, and Charles miirried the prJncefs Ulrica Eleanora, filler to the king of Denmark. Tlie dates of Sweden foon after refigned their Ihare in the government entirely into the hands of the king, declaring that he received his crown from God, aqd was not accountable for his a£lions to any human power. This unlimited complaifance. fo favourable to his ambition, Charles failed not to improve. He therefore refumed all the grants which his predeceflbrs had made of the crown-lands; erefling at the fame time a court to er4iiire into fuch mifdemeanors as had been committed by the great lords, or others of his wealthy fubjeda, from whom be extorted large fines. He alfo lowered the coin, and qbliged the creditors of government to be content with half the money that was due to the^n. The kii^ however lived not long to enjoy the fruits of his defpotifm, but died in the year 1697, in the forty-fecond year of his age, leaving the crown to his fon Charles XII. at that time not more than fifteen years of age. Soon after the young king's acceiTion, a hoftile de- fign was formed againft him by three great powers, viz. the king of Denmark, the eledlor of Saxony, likewife king of Poland, and Peter the czar of Muf- covy. Notwithftanding fo formidable a confederacy, this m>. It'll •4« THE M O D E R N [EUKOPE. this martial jroung ^ Ate, who fccmed f tival the moft celebrated heroe* of ancient timea, purfued the war with an ardour which never before had been ex- ceeded, till after many aftonilhing afit of vaioiir, and a variety of fortune, he wa«, at laft killed at the fiege of Frederick flul, a Danifli city on the frontiers of Norway,, in the thirty-fixth year of hit age. By the laft will of Charles, the young duke of Holftcin wat appointed his fucceflbr i hut the Swedes apprehenfive of the calamity in which he night involve the kingdom, by purfuing the meafurci of their late fovereign, conferred the crown on Ulrica Eleonora, fifter to the late king, and who had married the prince of Heflc-Caflel. In the year 1720, this prince was, with the confent of the queen and (he fenate, raifed to the throne; but the prerogative, which had in the two late reigns been extended to abfolute power, was now reftraincd within fuch narrow limits, as ha* never been prefcribed even by the ancient conltitution of the kingdom. The queen of Sweden dying without ifliie in 1741, peine* Adolphu^ tenfely cold, and others ftrongly impregnated with fulphur, in which the ifland remarkably abounds. Near the eaft fide of Iceland is the mountain of Hecia, a vole ( Landvirn of a hundred and fifty men each, befldes ofKcers. Here are likewife eight companies of light troops, called in their language Skielobere, which by their adiivity in running over the mountains, and ice, have been extremely ufeful in the country. The pay of the captains, both in the horfe and foot, amounts to no more than five pounds • month each, and that of the other Officers and private men in pro- portion. The captains, however, are generally per- mitted to difpenfe with the ferviee of a certain number of foldiers, who are for the raoft part articaiii, Co that 1hf/'imiy work at their refpeAive trades, while their (■ay is partly enijoyed by the captains, and partly allotted t'di! the ^penc'e 'of recruits; the king allowing for this Vtti^e no more than fifty-two pounds a year in the -cavalry, BAd thirty 'pounds in the infantry. The Danifh fleet is compofed of thirty fhips of the line, and fifteen or fixteen frigates; but many of the nips being old, knd wanting greM repairs, the moil that they can furntlh, fit for ferviee upon any emer- gency, is twenty (hips. This flrtt ifs tifoalTy ftatioh'ed -A Copenhagen, where are the dock-yirt'ds, fVore-houfcs, khi 'ill the Vnateria!^ nectfiary for the marine. TJilh 'hub6\ir is difi^.ded bjr two or three batteries of can- non, and b)r the diftculty Miich there is to enter h without the affiftante of good pilots ; but by a fi|uadron well acquainted with the coafts and the foundings, Copenhagen might be bombarded by fea, atid all the deck-yards deftroyed. The feaitMn deftitied for the ferviee of the fleet eonfift of tw« daflbs. The firfl is compofed of thofe who atto bred Up fh the merchant ferviee, or who apply thentl^lVea to fifliing, amounting fometlmes to thirty thoufand. They cannot quit the kingdom without a permiffion from their fuperior, and are obliged to pre- fent themfelves when required. They receive accordiiir to their abilities from fix to twelve ihillings (lerling every year to pay their excife ; and fuch of them as live in the country villages are exempted frotn thA capitation-tak. The fecond clali is compofed of four divlfions, each confining of a chief, and ten companies of a hundred and eighteen men. This body, which is recruited out of the former, is in conftint pay, aiid ii always ready not only to man the fhips of War, but likewifd to furnifli workmen for the dock-yards, they all being taught the art of (hip-building. When they are at land, they receive about nine fhillings fterling every month, and as much provifions as will fupply their families, if not very numerous. Many of them ate likewife furnifked with lodgings at the king's expence: When at fea, they are paid according to their capacity ; fome receiving twenty, fome twelve, and others on\f ten (hillings a month. The captains of the men of war have a fixed (alary of fixty pounds a year, and the privilege of difpenfin^ with the ferviee of ten men in every company, wholk wages they receive for their own ufe. They are, however, obliged to defray the expence of bringing re- cruits from the different parts of the kingdom, his Dani(h majefty allowing only forty pounds a year for this purpofe. The captain of every (hip, when at fea, has alfo a certain fum for his table, to which he is obliged to admit all the officers under his command. The pay of the lieutenants is in proportion; and all the officers of both clalTcs enjoy the fame refpe^tive falaries in peace and war. For the laft hundred and eighteen years Denmark has been an abfolute monarchy. The king is the only- interpreter of his laws, fupreme judge and prefident of the high court of jufHce, when he pleafes to fit there; and whether prefent or abfent, the advocates always addrefs thenrfelves to the throne. The eftablifhed religion in Denmark is that of the Lutheran church. The revenues of the ecclefiallicks are proportioned to their rank, each having a decent maintenance, but no fuperfluity. The Widolrs of all the parochial clergy are authorized by the law to receive one eighth part of the Aipend which their hufbahds enjoyed, fiefides, in every diocefb, the clergy have a fund for the benefit of the widows, who receive thence a year^* revenue, proportionable to the fums that h.^il berr. :iaid into the fund by their hufbands. The lands --f every perfon convlQed of becoming a papift are foiil-ited to the next heir, and the apoftate is baniffied the Danifh territcries. At] Jews are forbid to enter the kingdom without tlic ..>yal licence; and who- 0/ L'j Netherlands.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 15J whoever dircoveri fuch in offender ii entitled to • reward ot fifty crowni. The only univerfity of the kingdom ii thit of Copenhagen. Here are feveral hundred fludenti, who are maintained upon an eftablinimcnt made by the former kingi, at a time when ail the neceflariei of life were very cheap { but thefe being much eocreafed of late years, the fund is (o inadequate to the defign, that the ftudenti live in great mifery ; nor ii any clafi of the people held in fo niuch contempt. A rofe-noble - _ - A ducat _ . - . A rix-doilar . . - A flet-dollar . . - A rix-mark - - A flet-mark - - - A ftiver - - - Befides thefs there is a great variety of copper coins of fmall value. i8 9 4 3 o 9 o o o o o The Danes are one of thnfe nations which, under the names of Teutones and Cintbri, invaded the Roman empire a hundred years before the Chriftian epoch ; the ancient Cimbria appearing to have comprehended Jutland, Slefwic, Hulftein, and fome parts of Lower Germany. Schiold, the firft king of Denmark, is (aid to have lived about fixty years before the above' mentioned period. According to the Danifli chronicles, he was fucceeded by eighteen kings, to the timt of Regner, furnamed Logbrag, whofe acceflion is plac ;d in the year 750. In the ninth century the Danes be- came exceeding formidable, and not only committed great depredations on the coafts of England and Scot- land for many years, but actually eftabli/hed tbeir fovereigns on the throne of the former kingdom, of which they maintained pofleflion upwards of twenty years. On the death of Olaus, without ifltir, in 1 387* queen Margaret, his mother, was ele£ted queen of Denmark and Norway, who having alTociated in the government her nephew F.rick, fubdued the kingdom of Sweden; and it was enabled by the dates, that thofe three kingdoms Oiould be united for the future under one prince. On the death of Margaret, Erick became fovereign of the whole; hut being depofed, on pretence of mal-adminiftration, he retired into Pomerania, where he died. For more than a hundred years from this epoch no king of Denmark ever left any male heirs, but the three crowns of Denmark, Norway, and Sweden, were jointly conferred on the fame perfon by the ftates of the refpe£)ive kingdoms, till the year 1439, when Chriftian, earl of Oldenburg, being elected to the fovereignty of the Danifli dominions, the Swedes re- fufed to concur in the nomination, and renouncing the union of Calmar, which had been obferved from the time of queen Margaret, eleAed a king to them- felves. From this period the Danifh and Swedifli crowns have ever been detached from each other; and thenceforth, likewife, the fenate of Denmark arro- gated to themfelves the right of difpofmg of the fove- reignty of the nation, the ftates being only now and then confulted out of form. The power of this op- preflive ariftocracy continued till the year 1660, when it was aboliflied by Frederick the Third, who changed the conftitution of the government from a limited and elefiive to an abfolute monarchy, and eftabliOied the fucceflion in his own defcendants, by whom it ha* ever fince been maintained. NETHERLANDS. CHAP. I. 0/ tilt filuiilitn—rlvtrs^ dykts ^ air — prtvinc* 0/ Hallaud-^ chitf towns. ' I "■ H E Netherlands, or Low Countries, fo de- ^ nominated from their low fituation at the mouths of feveral great rivers, viz. the Rhine, the Maefe, the Scheld, &c. are fituate between a and 7 degrees of eaft longitude, and between 50 and 53 degrees 30 minutes of north latitude. They are bouiided on the north by the German fca, on the eaft by Ger- many, on the fouth by the territories of France, and on the weft by part of France and the Britiflt feas ; extending in length from north to fouth about three hundred miles, and in breadth two hundred, They No. a I. anciently formed part of Gallia Belgica, and were afterwards comprehend in the circle of Burgundy. At prefent they confift of feventeen provinces ; of which the feven northern revolting from the Spaniards, and entering into a treaty of union for their mutual defence, obtained thr name of the United Provinces. The greater part of the other ten being fubjeA to the houfe of Auftria, is called the Auftrian Nether- lands. The feven United Provinces are fltuate between 3 and 7 degrees of eaft longitude, and between 51 and 54 degrees of north latitude ; bounded on the weft and north by the Britifh and German feas, on the eaft by Weftphalia, and on the fouth by the Auftrian Nether- lands. They contain the following provinces, viz. Holland Proper, Zealand, Frielland, Groningen, Ove- ryflel, Guelderland, and Utrecht ; which, from the R r r chief •54 THE MODERN [EUKOPK. chief province, are ufually comprehended under the general denomination of Holland. Thii country is perfefily flat, without the inter- vention of a fingl: hill, but abounds in bogi and moralTei. It is divided almoft into i«ro parti by the Zuider Sea, a Urge (hallow bay i and the Oollart Bay fcparatM Groningen from Eaft Friefland. In Holland and Weft Frielland there are fevcral lalcei, of which Hacrlem Meet is the chief. One half of the country may be called a lake in the winter, on account of the annual inundation, but in fummer it affords rich paftures. The principal rivers are, i. the Rhine, which on its entrance into this country divides into three branches, called the Waal, the Lech, and the Yflel. The two former run weftward, and, uniting their waters with the Maefe, difcharge themfelvea into the German or Briiifh feast while the Iflier running northward, falls into the Zuider Sea. i. The Scheld, entering the country below Antwerp, divides it into two branches, one running north, called the Ofterfcheld, and the other due well, named the Wefterfcheld i both which fall into the fame fea with the Rhine, 3. The Vecht runs from eaft to weft through the province of Over- yOel, and falls into the Zuider Sea. 4, The Eems rifes in the province of Utrecht, and running north by Amersfort, difcharges itfelf into the Zuider Sea, 5 The Hunfe has its fource in the province of Over- yffel, and running north fall* into • bay of the fea between Frielland and Groningen. It conje£lured by fome that great part of the United Provinces has been gained out of the fea, by cafting up banks and draining themj while others are of opinion that much of them has been loft by inundations of the fea and tempeftuous wreather. Both of thofe opinions may be well founded, in refpe£l to different places. For in many parts, the feas and rivers appear to be above the land at high water, and are kept out only by prodigious banks of earth, called dykes s nor are inftances wanting, where large tra£ls of land have been laid irretrieveably under water. The lops of fteeples, and other high buildings, where towns and villages formerly ftood, have been feen near the coaft at low water. As the Zuider Sea has never been mentioned by any Roman writer. Sir William Temple conjedurc?, with probability, that it has been formed by fome great inundation breaking in between the Texel, and other iflands which lie near in a line, and feem to be the (battered remainders of a continued coaft. This opinion, he thinks, is confirmed from the (hallowners of the fea, and the flatnefs of the fands along its whole extent. The Zuider Sea is enclofed almoft on every fide. On the north, it has the iflands of Schelling, Ame- land, iic. on the eaft the provinces of Frielland and Groningen ; on the fouth, Utrecht and part of Hol- land ; and on the weft, another part of Holland, with the iflands of the Texel and the Ulic; being about feventy miles in length, and half as much in breadth, exceeding (hallow, and full of fands. The entrance of it at the Texel, and the paflfage over it, are reputed rxtremely dangerous to navigators, riere the violence I of the waves is futh, that when the wind blows • ftorm at north-weft, if it happens to be a fpring-tlde, the ftron^cft dykes fometimes give way, and thicaten dcftruAion to all the maritime provinces. The dykei are generally feventeen ells thick at hot* torn, and feven ells high, fortified to the landward in the ftrongcft manner with wood nnd ftone t and towards the water, covered with mats, rufhes, and fea- weed, and fometimes with fail-cloth. Notwithftanding thofe bulwarks, in the year 1530, the fea broke in and over* flowed great part of Zealand} and in ij68, it rofe to » that height, that it covered fome of the iflandi of Zea^ land, and laid under water great part of the coaft of Holland, and almoft all Frielland, fwallowing up feventy-two villages, and deflroying twenty thoufand people in Friefland only. Another inundation hap- pened in 1655, and a much greater in it)6j, when the fea broke in with fuch violence between the I'exel and the Heldrr, that it carried away part of the village of Hayfdunem, laid all the country under water between Wiring and Zyp, broke the dyke of Hern at two places, and came up to the gates of Medenblick, overwhelming many villages, ind turning a confiderable trad of land into a continued fea, by which numbert of people and cattle were deftroyed. The dyke of Maydenburgh was alfo broken down, and all the country round Naerden, Myden, and Wefop, as far u Loren in Goyland, and fialicorn in the province of Utrecht, was laid under water. The gates and fortificationi of Naerden were deflroyed ( and the ftrong rampart of ftone, called the afs's back, fwept away from the foundation, leaving a hole where it ftood, thirty-fix foot deep. In Amfterdam the Ncwen dyke, with the ftreet upon it, and the adjoining inarkct- place, wai overflowed. The dyke betwixt Amfterdam and Haerlem broke in the middle thirty or forty rods, and a great part of Waterland was entirely fwallowed up. Other inundations happened in the years 1682 and 1717, which are faid to have done as much damage as thofe above mentioned. The banks of (he river are alfo broken down fome- times by (hoals of ice and land-fluods ; as happened in 1638, when the Ifle dyke near Utrecht giving way, moft part of Holland was laid under water. The method of removing the inundation on thofe occafions is by wind-mills, of which there are great numbers, for the purpofe of carrying off the winters rains and melted fnow, which in the fpring overflow the country ; at which time it appears like a fea, interfedlcd by the towns and villages built upon the riflng grounds, and which are like fo many iflands. Though Holland be fo much celebrated fur its com- merce and the number of its (hipping, there is hardly a good harbour on the coaft. The bcft are thofe of Flulhing, Helvoetfluys, and Rotterdam, With re- fpe£l to Amfterdam, there cannot be a more incom- modious haven, being featcd in fo (hallow a water that ordinary '(hips cannot come near it unlefs in high tides, nor veffels of burden without unlading. The country is interfered with numerous canals, which lead to every town and village, and almuft to every farm houfe. The /r\h Holland.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. «S5 Tht til of Holland CAuld not fail of being; extremely unwhoirumc, were ii nut purified by the fliarpncfi of the frolh, which viftc them with every eid wind for •bout four month* in the year, and are much more fevere than in Britain. In winter, their harbouri ■re frequently (hut up two or three months together bjr the ice, efpecially thofe in the Zuider Sea. The fpring i( much fliurter and left agreeable in the United Provinces than in England, and fome part of the furnmer far more hot i tior is it uncommon for great beat and cold to fucceed each other without any inter- mediate temperature. There i* fo much moifture in the air that it caufct metals to ruft, and wood to mould falter than in other places. It hi* probably been to obviate this difpofition of the atmofphere, thut the inhabitants were firll induced to maintain that cleanlincfs fo remarlcahle in their houfcs am' ftreets, wi'.hout which they muH have been greatly e«j.on!d to infedlious diforders ; and with all their precaution they hardly efcape three fummers fuccefTively being feised with difeafes of this Icind. In the neighbour* hood of the fea, they not only have unwholfome weather in fpring and autumn, but ih« cold winds blafl nioft of the fruit) and in the latter of thofe feafons, great pare of the unripe fruit is blown down by furious ftorms. The endemic difeafes of the country are chiefly the gout and fcurvyi but in hot fummert they are vilited by malignant fevers, efpecially at Amfterdam and Ley- den. The people feldom live to a great age, both men and women beginning to decay very early, parti- cularly at the former of thofe places. It is remarked by fir William Temple as fomething extraordinary, that he had feen at the Hague, which is the beft air in Holland, two men above feventy. Perhaps this may proceed from their diet and want of exercife, as much as from the badnefs of the air. For their ufual food is dried and falted flcOi and fifh; and brandy and Geneva are very commonly dranlc. They have hardly any idea of rural fports, and feldom travel aboui bufi- nefs either on horfebaclc or a-foot, but r.te drawn along in a covered boat upon a fmooth canal, by a horfe, a method of conveyance little calculated to afford the fmalleft motion to the body. The province of Holland is bounded on the weft and north by the German fea; on the call by the Zuider Sea, which feparates it from Weft Friefland, OvcrylTel, and Guelderland ; and on the fouth by Zealand and Utrecht ; being about a hundred miles in length from north to fouth, and near thirty in breadth. In point of ftrength and riches it is equal to the fix other United Provinces, though it has hardly any ftaple commodities or produce of its own, except fome rich paftures which furnilh them with plenty of butter and cheefe } and their feas and rivers which fupply them with R{h, The capital of this province, and of the whole United States, is Amfterdam, fituate in 4 degrees 30 minutes of eaft longitude, and in 52 degrees ij minutes of north latitude. It lies in the form of a crefcent on the river Amftel, and an arm of the fea called the Wye, a little to the caftward of the Zuider Sea. This is juftly reckoned the greaieft port in the world, not- wiihftanding the accefs be fu difficult, that it is hardly pofTible for • loaded (hip, or man of war, to enter the harbour. The foundation* of the city aie hid upon feveral thoufand vaft piles, driven down with Infinite labour and prodigiuui expence. A flrong wall with baftions and out- works, defend it on the land-fide, and the Wye fecurei it toward* the fea. The principal ftreets are of great breadth, having canals planted with trees running through themj but the reft are too narrow. They are fo careful of the pttvemenr, that all goods and merchandize are drawn upon fledges, and no other whceUcarriages are fulfered but gentlemen'* coachei, who pay a tax for thi* privi* lege. Hired coache* are fet on fledges, and drawn by one horfe. There are various accounts of the dimenfion* of this city, and the number of inhabitants, but accord- ing to the moft general computation, it is one third as large as London, and contains between three and four hundred thoufand inhabitants. The private houfcs are well built of brick, but their beauty is diminilhed by their benching in according to the height of the ftoriet, which wa* done with a view of IcITening the weight, ■( they are founded on a moraf*. Their churches are handfome buildings, but not comparable to thofe in popifh countries s neither are they built io the fame form, with ifles, chancels, and fteeples, or fituate eaft and weft as with us, but conftruAed upon various plans, as convenience may require, or the tafte of the arrhiteA diieQ 1 except fome old churches which were formerly built by the papifts. No churches, chapels, or oratorios however are allowed bells, except thofe of the Calvinift*. The chief buildings in Amfterdam next to their churches are, the ftadt-houfe, the exchange, the India- houfe, and their great bridge, I'he exchange is two hundred and fifty foot long, two hundred and thirty-two broad, and a hundred and fixteen foot in height. Over the middle of the build- ing is a lofty cupola. In this building are held the courts of juftice; and here are the apartments of moft of the officers of ftate. The vaft treafures of the republic are alfo lodged here in the bank, which is fuppofed to be the richeft in the world, and is guarded every night by a body of the burghers, whom they confider as more interefted in its fafety than mercenary foldiers. The whole building excites the idea of great folidity and ftrength, but is deftitute of that elegance and fymmetry wi;'<;h we might expeift to find in the principal edifice of fo flourilhing a city and nation. The place which contains this great treafure is a vault under the ftadt-houfe, ftrongly fortified with iron bars, and all the apparatus of fccurity. Here is certainly the appearance of immenfe riches, in bars of gold and filver, befides plate and innumerable bags, fuppofed to contain thofe precious metals. In (»& there ought to be in thi* bank all the treafure which it has received fince its inftitution, as it gives out nothing but its credit. This however is a point that has lately been much difputed} and many affirm, though it does not pay i I •56 T H B MO D E R N [RuRorr. pay in fpccie, but only hy • Irinifcr of credit upon it! booki, orders drawn upon it, that great fumi of money arc thence taken out for other purpofti. The fecurity of thii bank reftt not only upon the treafurc it contains, which upon a moderate computa- tion amounti to fixteen or eighteen millioni fterling, but upon the credit of the whole city of Amfterdam, the inhabitant! of which are bound to make good all the monici that are paid into it, 7'hii fydem of treafurc ii properly a general depofit, where every man lodges his money, bccaufe he confiders it as more fafe thin if it lay in his own cofTers : and fo far is the bank from paying any interefl for the cafli depofited, that the owner, if he does not choofe to have his name entered upon the bank books fo. fo much credit, may receive again the identical bags which he delivered, on paying a certain confidcration in proportion to the time during which they had lain in fafety. But when a perfon choofes to have his name entered for fo much credit, the bank money is worth more in payment than the current coin of the ftate, it generally bearing a premium of four or five per cent. The large fums lent to the Dutch government are entirely independent of the bank, the revcnuts of the refpciSlive provinces being mortgaged as a fccurity fur the payment of fuch fums, for which the provinces give bond. The £a(l India houfe is another magnificent ftruc- ture, divided into a great number of apartments and warehoufcs, where the fine fpices are depofited in great quantities. The admiralty and arfenal, or magazine of arms and warlike (lures, are alfo juHly admired; as is likewife the bridge over the Amftel, which is fix hundred and fixty foot long, and feventy broad. The city of Haerlem is fituate four miles eaft of the Tea, and ten miles weft of Amfterdam, with which it has a communication by a canal. This city is fur- rounded only by a flight wall. The principal building is the great church, formerly the cathedral, the largeft and moft elegant church in Holland. Here are con- fiderable manufaflures of filk and velvet ; but the place is muft remarkable for that of linen, called Holland, or rather for their bleaching and whitening of it, a great part of this linen being wove in Ger- many. Leyden, the Liigdunum Batavorum of the ancients, is fituate four milns eaft of the fea, and eighteen fouth of AmOerdam, with which it alfo has a communication by a navigable canal. It is efteemed one of the neateft and pleafanteft towns in Holland, but ona of the moft unhealthful, on account of the marflies and ftagnant waters in the neighbourhood. This place is much better fortified than Haerlem; but what renders it moft fecurc, is the power of overHowing the country on any hoftile attack. The canals of this city are fo numerous, that no lefs than thirty iflands are formed by them ; and over the canals are laid thirty-five bridges. Here is the moft confiderable univerfity in the United Provin'res, founded by the ftates in 1575 The fchools are in a large building, three ftories high, in the uppermoft of which were £lzivir's printing rooms. There are only two colleges for the ftudents. who wear no diftinguifhing haliiis, nor are obliged to refide in any particular part of the town. Of ihol* who refort hither for their improvement, it is computed that there are fumelimcs near two (houldnd, including fiireigiu'ii. The re£tor of the univcrfiiy is elcillcJ annually out of three prefcnted lu the Hates, The number of prufeflors is twelve, amon^lt whom thol<* in the medical departments have been chiefly celebratej for many years. The anatomical theatre is held to exceed any thing of the kind. The environs of the city are embelliflied with fine gardciii, the various produce of which is much admired. About three leagues fouth-weft of Leyden ftandi the Hague, at the iJillance of two miles from the fea. It is encompafTi'd with fine meadows and groves, but no walls, and therefore efteemed only a village^ but from its extent, the grandeur of the buildings, and the number of beautiful walks, it may be deemed equal, if not fuperior, to any of their cities. It ii governed by its own magiflrates, and enjoys all the privileges of cities, except the fending a rcprefcntative to the alTcmbly of the ftates. Here however the ftates- general, as well as the ftates of the province of Hol- land, allemble { being the refldence not only of the ftadtholuer, but of all foreign minifters and other pcrfons of diftinAion, Here are but two churches^ one uf which, called the new church, is of a fingular form without pillars, A fine (bady walk ftretches from the Hague to the village of Scheveling, which lies on the fea-fbore at the diftance of two miles. This was once a great town, but was deftroyed by a tempeftous ocean con- tinually beating upon it. Hounllaerdyke, a palace that belonged to kingWilliam, ftands about ten miles fouth-weft of the Hague, and is much admired for its line gardens, ftatues, and furniture; fome of which, it is faid, were removui hither from the Britifh palaces after the Revolution. VVithin two miles of the Hague ftands another palace of the princes of Orange in the village of Ryfwick, where the peace was negotiated in i(>97, between the allies and France. Delft is pleafantly fltuated in the meadows, fix miles fouth'Caft of the Hague. It is about two miles ill circumference, and canals planted with trees run through the ftreets. This town is remarkable for its fine earthen ware, but otherwife has no great trade. There are here only two churches, in one of which it the tomb of William I. prince of Orange, with hit ftatue in marble, and near it another of brafs, on which is the motto, Tc laid umkr uatcr, it is almoll impofTibie fur an enemy to appijath it. The ftrei'ts .ire wide, the hnules well built, and conl.iin a grc:it number of in- habitants. I'his is the chief mart fur Britilh cloth. H^rc was held that famous fynod, in 1619, where lh« Calvinilli condemned the Armenians, and ellablifhed the Prefhylcrian fcifl, which has ever fincc had the fole power in the government ot the United Province* | all other denominations of Chrillian> being excluded from the magillracy. Gertrudcnburg it fituate within the territory of Dort, twelve miles fouth-eaft of that city. Goude, or Tergow, the fixth city in dignity of thofe that conftitute the ftates of Holland, is a flrong town twelve miles north cafl of Rotterdam, at the confluence of the rivers Gow and Kiel, Naerden is fituate in a morafs, near the fouth end of the Zuidcr I'd, twelve miles eaft of Amiterdam, and is one of the ftiongcft towns in Holland. Williamftadt, built by William I, prince of Orange, Hands on the Roo Vaert, a river which feparatea the iflnnd of Voorn from the continent. This town is fubji'iSl to the prince of Orange ; and here the BritiOl ufually embark and difcmbarlc their troopi. All the towns above mentioned are in that part of the province of Holland called South Holland i and there arc fome others fituate in the idands of South Hol- land. Thofc idands arc, Voorn, Ifilmond, Goree, and Overflackee. The chief town is Uriel, which ftands on north-weft coaft of the idind of Voorn, and has the advantage of a pretty good harbour. It is a ftrong town, and was ceded to queen Elizabeth by the Dutch, as a fecuriiy for the payment of the money which (he lent ihem, to defend thcmftlves againft the Spanifli tyranny. On the ifland of Voorn {tands likewife Helvoetfluys, a port-town, about five miles fouth of Briel. This is one of the bcft haibours in Holland : a firft rate man of war may lie clofe to the keys in the middle of the town ; and this is therefore the ufual ftation for their largeft (hips. Here likewife the Fnglilh packet has its regular palTage. Somctfdyke is the chief town on the ifland of Overflackee. Of Ifclniond the chief town hears the fnmi: name, and (lands almoft oppofite to Rotterdam, N9. JJ. • Th* chief towns in North Holland art, 1. 8«r> dtm, or Samerdam, fituate on that arm of the fct called the Wye, about fevtn miica north weft uf Amfterdam, On the oppolite (hore ii the greaieft magacine of timber and naval ftorei in Kuropt. Hera are many hundred faw-milli coiiftantly employed in (awing plank and tinibtr for (hipping, the (lock of which II prudigioui, 1, Huori), a lea- port, picafanily fituate on the Zuidar Sea, twenty milci north of Amfterdani, 3. Enchuyfon, lituatc on the fame fci, ten milei north-raft >( Huoin. 4. Mcdemblich, fituate on the ZuiJer Sea ten milei north of Hoorn. Here are the ftrungell dykes or banki to defend the country againft the waves, whicb beat with violence on thofe ffiurei when the winds blow from the north. The pailure grounds in this part of tba country are exceeding rich, 5. Alcmaer, fituate about eighteen miles north of Haerlem. It ii one of the beft buil: towni of North Holland, and furrounded by gardens, groves, and rich pafture groundi, producing great quantities uf butter and cheafe, 6. Edam, a port-town on the Zuider Sea, ten milei fouth of Hoorn, moft conlidcrabie for its dock-yards, 7. Purmer, a fmall fortified town live miles weft of Edam. The country about this town and Edam wai formerly a lake, and being drained, now affordi rich pafture, ai ii the cafe of fevcral other parti of North Holland. The iflands of North Holland, which is a barrier, to break the violence of the fea, are, the Tcxel, Ulic ifland, Schclling, and Wieringcn. The Texel i* a fruitful ifland a little to the north« ward of the continent, about fix miles long, and five broad. The ftrait between the ifland and the continent is the principal pafTage from the ocean to the Zuider Sea, through which, moft (hips fail that are bound to Amfterdam. I'here is a harbour in the 7'exel, and another in the Ulic, and when the homeward-bound velTcli can reach either of ihefc ports, they ride fecure from encmiei ai well at ftorms, CHAP. ir. 0/ tht prtvlncts of Zt-aland'^Frle^and—Cronlnftn-^f Ovtryffit—Gistldtrland— Utrecht , ' I ''HE provinc of Zealand confifts of eight iflandi, '■ which lie in the mouth of the river Schcld. They are bounded on the north by the province of Holland, from which they are feparated by a narrow channel; on the eaft by Brabant; on the fouth by Flanders, from which they are divided by one of the branches of the Scheld ; and or the weft by the German fea, Thofe iflands are, Vvalchercn, South Beve'and, North Beveland, Wc'ierdyke, Schowen, Duvilland, Toion, and Orefand, Walcharen, the principal ifland, lies at the mouth of the Scheld, and is about nine miles lung, and eight broad. The chief town of the ifland and of the whole province is MiddlcLurg, fituate in 3 degrees Sit 43 mi« ' 'I * 'I 258 II E MOD R N [Europe, 43 minutes of eaft longitude, and in 51 degrees 30 minutes of nurtii latitude, fifty niilc^ fouthwcll of Rotterdam, and thirty north-eall uf Bruges. It is a large, rich and populous city, and has a communi- cation with the fca by a deep canal, through which merchant (hips are bruu;^ht into the middle of the to'vn. It contains twenty churches, cf which that calk I the iie»' church, of " • o£lagonal form, is much admired tor its beauty. T'' - 'ladt-houfe is likewifj a magnnicent flruiture. The town is furrounded by a w^ll and baiHons, with a moat and other modern fortifuatii ns. Ramekins, or Zouburc-, fituate three miles fouth- ead of Midlleburg, wa^ lurnicrly a confidcrablc port- to'-.r, and one of thofe that were ceded by the Dutch to queen Elizabeth, for the fecurity of the money which (he advanced to che flutes ; but it is now a poor villjge. Flufliing is a port-town five miles fouth of Middle- burg, and :.a9 a ' rbour .veil defended by forts and batteries. I'his ■-.as another of the cautionary towns ceded to queen Elizabeth, Terverc is .1 fortiiicd town and harbour, three miles north of MiJdlcburg; of which and Flufhing the princes of Orjnge are fovereigns. Armuyden is 3 port-town two miles call of Middle- burg, but the h.irbour is now choaked up, and of little ufe. South Bevel \nd, the largcft of the iflands of Zealand, is about fifteen niilcs long, and feven broad, and was much larger, till part of it was carried away by an inundation in the year 1532. The only conliderabk that it was once contiguous to North Holland, and divided from it by an inundation whicli formed the Zuidcr Sea, This province is about foity r.iiies long, and twenty-five broad, and fubdividid into the terri- tories of Oftergo, VVeltergo, and ScvcuwolJcn. The firft is fituate in the north-ealt part of ihe province; the fccond in the weft ; and the third in the fouth-caft. The chitf town of Oftcrgo and of tl'c whole pro- vince is Ltwarden, about kvciity niilrs north-well of Amftcrdam. This city is admitcj for its elegant buildings, fpacious ftrcets, hne bridges, and the gar- dens which furround it, Frsiielrer is a fniall city, fituate eight miles cart of Lewarden, arid four miles caft of the Zuidcr Hcs. Here is an univeifitVj founded by the ftatts in 1585, and endowed with part of the abbey-l.indj, which were fequeftercd a little before that time, Harfingen is fituate on the coaft of the Zuider Sea a little wefl of Franeker, It is flron^^ly fortified, and the avenues to it may be laid under water un the ap- proach of an enemy. Doccum is a fortified town, fituate ten miles north, eaft of Lewarden, in a fruitful country, and remarkable for a bridge fo lofty, that vtfl'ils may pal's under it with their fails (landing. Stavem is fituate on the fouth-weft point of Fiicfland, on the coaft of the Zuider Sea. It was one of the hanfe towns, and anciently the capital of the kings of the FriK>ns. The harbour however is now choakeJ up, and its trade rcinoved to other ports. Several idands lie northward of this provinre, which sre fubjeil to it, and have only a few villages upoji town is '1 er Goes, fituate on the north part of the j them, iflanci, about twelve miles call of Middleburg, and j The province of Groningen is bounded on thr north fifteen well of Berg'-n-op-Zoom. There are feveral I by the German ocean; on the eaft by the Pollart gentlemen's feats, and about thirty villages in the 1 bay, which feparates it from Embden or Fall Fricf- ifland. (land; on the (buth by the province of Overyil'el; and North Bcvcland is fituate a little northward of the ; on the weft by the province of Weft Frielland. It is preceding, and is at prefcnt five miles long, and two I about thirty miles long and twenty broad, and may broad, but was much more extenfive till part of it was fwallowed up by the fea. Wolfcrdyke is yet a ("mailer ifland, lying between the two laft mentioned. Part of it likewife has been carried avv:iy bypn inundation. Schowen lies north of the Bevelands, It is about fifteen miles long, and fix broad, and has fu/Fered be divided into the diftri£ls of Groningen Proper and the Oml.inds. Groningen, ths chief town and formerly one of the hanfe-tovvns, ft?nds at the confluence of the two rivers Aha and Huncfus, thirty miles eaft of Lewarden, and twenty fuuth-vvcft of Embden. It is about two miles in circumference, well fortified, and has a conimuni- much by inundations. The chief town is Zurickfce, cation with the river Ems and the ocean by navigable fituute on the chaimcl. Brewerfhaven (lands five miles ( canals, which enables it to maintain a great trade with iiOLth of Zurickfec; and Bommcnce two miles eaft I Germany, of Brewe:(h:ivcn, ftrongly fortified. i D.im, the capital of the Omiands is fituate on the The ifiand of Duvelland lies eaft of Schowen, from j cuiuil caliei Damfter Diep, three miles weft of tha which it is fcparated by a very narrow channel. It '< river Eins, and is a large well built town, but contains feveral villages, but no confiderabie town, 1 he ifland of Tolen lies caftward cf the province of Brabant, and is fcparated from it by a narrow without walls, Wiiifehofcn is a fortrefs near the Dollart bay, fituate In ^ moral's, and commands a pafs out of Eaft Frief- ftrait. It is about fix miles long, and five broad; 1 laii.j into the United Provinces. The Dutch have th ; chief town Tolen is ftrongly fortified, lying about I leverjl other forts on this frontier towards E.ift Frief- five miles north-weft of Kcrgen-op-Zoom. , land, and were till lately efteemed mafters of that pro- The province of Friefland Proper is bounded on the | vincc; but the king of PrufEa has obliged them to north by the ocean; on the eaft by Groningen and j abandon the country, and taken polTcflion of it himl'clf. Overyfl'el; on f^" fouth by Ovciyd'cl and the Zuider j The province of Overylfel is bounded on the north Sea; and on the weft by the ocean. It is conjedured .by Groningen; on th* eaft by Weftphalia; on the \, (bnth OVERYSSEL, &C.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 2/9 the the but fouih by Ziitphi'tij anJ on the weft h, '.juclJcrland, the Zuidcr Slm, aii'l I'licHaiiJ. It is aboui fi.My mile, j long and torty bioaj. The chief towns arc, t. Dcventr, fituatc on the river IITel, on the coiiiiiicj of GutlJcrljiid, iliirty miles eaft of Amersfoff. It was r:'inirly one of 0\- haiife- towns, and is flill a pljc>; of gnod uaJf, aiiJ iiihaliittd by people of diftin£)liin. 2. Zwoll, fituate twenty miles north of ])eventcr, is a fortified town j the ramparts ric planted with trees, and the buildings elegant. 3. Campen, fituatc on the river YHll, near the Zuidcr Sea, twelve miles weft of Zwoll, is a hand fome well built city, and had forinerly a ^'■cat trade before the mouth of the \'ll I wis blocked up. 4. Covcrden, fituate on the conhiU-s of (.jerniany, thirty miles call of Zwoll, is itrongly fortified, and {lands in an inipafl'dile niorafs. The province of CiucMerland, comprehending the Dutch and Pruflian (JueUkiland, is bounded on the north hy the Zuidcr Sea and the province of Uvcyflelj on the cart by Wcllphalia; on ihc fouth by Brabant; and on the weft by the province of Utrecht. Dutch Gueldcrland is ful'dividcd into three diftrifls, namely, the Veluwo, the Ucicw, the ancient Batavia ; and the county of Ziitphui. The Veluwc is the north weftdivifion, lies between the Zuider Sea, and ;he rivers Lech and Ylii-l The chief towns are, Arnheim, Wagenmge, Hattem, Har- dcrwick, and Elberg. The Hetew is a'nioft encompalTed by ihe rivers Rhine, Lech, Maefe, and Meruwe. The chief towns ate Nlii.cgucn, Tiel, Skenkenfcans, Bommel, Burel, and Culemburg. The county of Zutphen is hounded on the north by Ovcryfl'.l; on the call by Munflerj on the fouth by the duchy of CIcve; rnd on the weft by the Wcluwe The chief towns arc Zutplicii, Doclburg, Groll, and Brevoort, The city of Arnheim is pliaf.mtly fituated on the river Lech, ten miles no: tii of Nimeguen, on firm grour.J, and in a healthy air, which occafions !: to be inhabited by people of dillin(fiion. At Dicren, ten miles iiorth-wcft cf this city, the princes of Orange have a palace j and twenty miles north of Arnheim, in the midiilc of the Veluwc, is the palace of Loo, where tlie l.-.tc king Willi.im frciuiently rcfiJcd in the hunting feaf:)ii. This is eftecmcd one of tlic moft elegant palaces belonging to th'-^ houfe of Orange. Hardwick is fituatc on tl'.j co.ut of th.o Zuidcr Sea, and has an univcifit) A'hicli was founded in 16 l8. Nimeguen is plcafantly featcd on the river Waal, ten miles fouth of Arnheim, and eij^ht north of Grave, and is :i !:irge, populous, well built city. The caftlc was indently reckoned a place of great ftrcngth, and command; a i'ww. view of the adjacent country. Here was concl.idcd the treaty between the allies and France in 1679. Skenkenfcans is a fortrefs fituate on the froiiticrs of Germany, where the Rhine divides into two branches, called the VVaal and Lech, aiid commands both livers. Bommel fianJs o''. an ifland furmed by the Maefe and vVi.l, cslied the Bommel Waart, twenty- five miles weft of Niricguen. On the fame ifland is the caffle of Lovillcin, with the fort of St. Andrew and Vuorn, or NalTuu, which command the rivers Waal and Maefe. Zutphen, capital of the territory of the fame name, IS fituatc on the river Yfl'el, fifteen miles north-eaft of Arnheim. It is a good town, ^nd inhabited by opulent people. Near this place Sir Fhilip Sidney was killed, in the war between the Spaniards and the Dutch. Doclburg flands i n the Yflcl eight miUs fouth of Zuipiien. It is naturally ftrong, having the river on one fide, and a ii'.orafs on the other; but was taken by the French, as veil as Zutphen, in 1672, and reftored at the peace. Groll is fitua.e tweniy-fix miles eafl of Doefburg, and commands a>i imp'. riant pafs between the Nether- lands and Germany. This was alfo taken by the bifhop of Munftctj an ally of France, in 1672, but reftored with the reft of the Dutch towns two years after. I'rufTian (formerly Spaniflj) Guelderland is feparated from the Dutch Guelderland by the territories of Clcve. It is bounded on the north by this duchy; on the cp.ft by the ele£lorate of Cologn ; on the fouth by the duchy of Jutiers; and on the wefl by the bifhoprick of Liege; being about thirty mi;.;s long, and twenty broad. By the treaty of Raftadr, in 1714, his im- perial majcfty ceded to the king of Pruffia all that part of the Upper Guelderland which he then pofltflcd, viz. the city ot Guelder and its bailiwick, with its dependencies, to be enjoyed in the fame manner as they were formerly hi Id by the kings of Spain. Guelder, the capital of Priiflian Guelderland, is a ftrong little town, fituate it' a morafs, twenty-five miles fouih-caft of Nimeguen. Uuremond is a large populous town, well built and fortified, fifteen miles (buth of Venlo. This city, with the reft of Spanifh Guelderland, '.y?": felzcd by Lewis XIV, for his grandfon the duke of AnJrMi, on the death of Charles II. king of Spain, in the year J7C0, but was recovered by the allies in 1702, and is now in poflelho.! of the cmprefs-qucon, as h.irefs of the Aurtrian dominions. Venio Hands on the river Maefe, about twelve miles fouth of Guelder, and i<: in poflcflion of the Dutch. Stevenfmaert is a fcrtrefs on the river Maefe, eight miles fo:!th of Riuemond. I'his is alfo in the poflelfion of the Dutch. ■■■■ Watchtendonk is a ftro'ig fortrefs fijuth of Guefdfcr, occupied by the king of Prufiia, The province of Utrecht is bounded on the north by the Zuider Sea and part of Holland ;^ on the eaft by Guelderland; on the fouth by the Rhine; and on the weft by another part of Holland ; being about twenty-five miles long, and as many broad This is one of the iroft pleafant and healthful provinces in the United Netherlands, containing very little bog and morafs. The chief town, Utrecht, I'ormcrly Antonina, is fituate on the anc'cnt channel of the Rhine, twenty- five miles fouth-eaft of Ainllerdam. It is a large popu- ■}':■*■ f inl I s6o THE M D E R N lEurcPi' I fjpulous city, and well built. Over the two principal canals, which run the whole length of the city, arc laid thirty-five bridges. Several fpacious itreets meet in the roarlcet- place, in the center of the town } and without the gates are beautiful wallcs of trees. Fiom the church of St. Martin, which is afcended by fuur hundred and fixty fteps, there is a fine profpciSt of the adjacent country, and no lefs than fifty walled towns. Here is a great univerfity founded by the flates in 1636 ; and here the peace was concluded between the allies and France in 1713. Amersfort Aands on the river Ems, fifteen miles north-eaft of Utrecht, in a country abounding in corn and good pafture. It is a well built, populous city, about three miles in circumference. Four miles to the northward lies the palaces of Suefdyke, one of king William's hunting feats, fituate in the middle of a foreft which abound:, with game. Wyck de Dueflerde, called by the Romans Duro- fiadium Batavorum, ftands at the confluence of the Lech, and the middle channel of the Rhine, twenty miles fouth of Amersfort. Montfort is a little elegant town, capital of a fmall territory, fituate eight miles weft of Utrecht. I'he towns in the United Provinces are generally well built of brick, but the houfcs are not equal to thofe of the trading towns in England; neither are the houfes of the minifters and great men comparable to thofe of the Britifh nobility. But fuch of the towns as have canals running through the (trects, the banks of which are planted with trees, are vaftly pleafant, efpecially in fummer, as they are kept very neat and c'^-an. The pavement is fo floped, that every ihower wafhes away the little dirt they have, into the canal j and as all goods are drawn upon fledges, or carried by water, the pavement is fcldom broken. CHAP. III. Of the foil'— produce— •animals— manufacl lives — iraffick •^natives— -drefs—charaifer— houfes — (//./ — li: oer- fiens— mujick- houfes — way of fruvelling — forces — coins^rel/rien— -marriages, TH E foil of the United Provinces is for the moft part in extremes, being cither very goud cr very bad. Great part of it confiOs of barren fands, bogs, and marflies, but no where in Europe are the pafture grounds of richer quality. There is foroe good arable land, where wheat, rye, b.irley, oats, peafe, and beans, thrive well, but do not aft'orJ ! what is fuificient for the fubfiftencc of thi: n.itivcs. Other portions of ground produce excellent flax. The fides of the canals, and roads, with the avenues to country houfes, are planted with foreft- trees ; but there is little or no timber of any value. There h great varie'.v of fruit-trees, and flowers, of the laltcr of which the people are fond, almoft to a degree of adoration. I'he country produces no minerals, and almoft their only foflii is a bituminous earth, out of which they dig peat for fuel, being deftitutc of wood for that purpofe, and having no other coals but what th-y import from Britain, The neat cattle and horfcs of the Netherlands are the largeft in Europe; the cows give incredible quan- tities of milk, and their horfcs f>ir th; draught and army are hardly to be matched for their bulk ; but in fpced and aiflivily tluy a'e f.ir iriiVrior to the Englifli. They have numerous flocks uf flicep, but thofe are likewife not equal to the breed of this coun- try, in rcfpeil either of flcfli or wool. They have the fame JomclHc animals as in lirit.iin, with fonie to which we arc ftrangers, particularly wolves and wild hogs. Deer arc not in great plenty. The country abounds in frifh-water fi(h, ar;d they have all kinds of fea-fifli except oylleis and herrings, both which they take on the Britilli coaft. Among the birds of pafljge that vifit the Nether- lands are the ftorks, which build and hatch their young on the chimneys in the cities as well as villages. The inhabitants have fo fuperflitious a veneration for thofe birds, that they will not futfcr them to be killed on any account. They come every year about the end of February, and fly away with their brood in the beginning of Auguft. Quails alfo come over to Holland from Africa in the fuinnicr, as in EngL.id, and return thitlier in the wirrter. All kinds of tame and wild fowl are here in great plenty. In the fpirit of manufacture and induftry the Dutch confefledly excel all the nations in the world. 7'hcy will not fuftcr an idle pcrfon among them. They fct even the lame and blind to work, as well as old people and children ; and find a proper cnipl-iymcnt for every fpecics of cripples. The profcflion of the grcatcft advantage to this, as to every maritime country, is that of feamen, for the breeding of whom they give particular encouragement to filheries. This branch of indullry afl'ords them an inexhuuflihic fund of riches, purchaflng with its produce the merchandize of every other country. The preparing of vcfflls, nets, boats, and other utenfils for thofe fiflierie?, employs a multitude of their poor on fhore, v.'ho would othcrvvife be a burden to the country. The Ihip and houfe-carpcnters arc another numerous profcflion, who furnifh many other countries with plank, though they have hardly any timber of their own growth. The veflcls conftruiSed by thofe ire • chanicks, however, are not comparable to the Englifli, either in ftrength, beauty, or expedition, but arc heavy, bulky, and ill-fliapcd. They appear to he under a necefllty of following this model : for the entrance of their harbour being generally fo (hallow, as to admit only of flat-bottomed velTcIs, they muft make up in breadth for what they are deficient in depth. The Dutch excel in dying, fugar-baking, and bleaching of linen. That which is denominated Hol- land, with thi ir manufarflure of paper and fail-cloth, exceed every thing of the kind. They have alfo manufa£lures of filk, velvet, wool, a; 1 every other with which we are acquainted. This country, however, is far from being famous for her manufadlures, producing not the third of what is fufiicient for the confumption of the inhabitants. The H C(| thI riJ lij w| Netherlands.] G J' N E R A L TRAVELLER. i6t The fine cloih of LcyJcn and Utrecht has always fupported its chai n^U-r ; but lately, from the high price of labour in 'i^nfc towns, this cloth is become dearer, in proportiun a> its breadth, than the Englifli fuperfine cloih. 'I he greater part of it is exported to foreign market!^, while all the common people, and mcft of tlic troops, are cloathed with the Englifh manufatflurcs frn:n Yorkfliire, or thofc of Aix la Chapclle and Vcrvier. The high price of provifions, and of all the necef- faric's of life, will prevent this people from ever fuc- cccding in any great in extenflve manufactures, though the country be over ftocked with inhabitants. It is computed that the United Provinces contain about two millions of pco;)le ; but there not being provifions enough raifed in the country to fiipply the fourth part of this number, the remainder muft be imported from other ftates, and fomctimes at great expence, exclufivc of the duties and cxcifcs. The ronfumcr muft pay between fife/ an'! li^'^ per cent, upon the prime coft, for all the grain which is imported into this country to make bread. Beef and mutton cannot be eaten in any part of the United Provinces before the confumer pays btlwi.::: rr"- ncnnv and three halfpence per pound to the excife -, and every other nec":flary of life is taxed in proportion. The trade and riches of this ftate have been con- fiderably increaffd by the herring and Greenland filheries, which not only employ a multitude of fea- men, but furnifh them with articles of commerce that are demanded in almoft all the markets of Europe, They pickle and preferve their herrings in a manner infinitely fuperior to the Danes, Swedes, or Norwe- gians, and they are always fure of finding a market for them in the North, in preference to thofe of any other ftate. What is alfo not lefs beneficial, they have the cod and lu bot fifhery upon the coafts of England and ScctlanJ. All the inhabitants upon the fea-coafts of Holland and Zealand are more or lefs concerned in this trade. The exclufive commerce which the Dutch have of the Eaftlndia fpiceriss, muft likewife be a perpetual fourci; of riches to this republic. Having no great colonics or fettlements in the Weft-lndics, they have Another great fource of riches to the inhabitants of Holland is the exchange and banking bufinef:*. So convenient is the fituation of Amfterdam, and fo great its credit and correfpondence, that three quarters of all the monies remitted fro.n one ftate to another in Europe, as well in mercantile as in other affairs, pafs through this city, and of courfe entiile her merchants to receive commiflions on them j which, as thofe remittances are for immenfc fums, muft amount to a confiderable fum annually. Befides the great quantities of different forts of goods which the merchants of Amfterdam and Rotter- dam fend to all the weftern parts of Germany, by the Rhine and the Maefe, on their own account, all the merchandize which the people in thofc parts import direiSly from, or export to foreign countries, muft pafs through one or other of the above mentioned cities, where they muft pay the duties of import and export to the ftate, and likewife a commiflion to fomc of their merchants for expedition ; fo that in fa£l the Hollanders, from their fituation, lay a tax upon all the foreign trade of thofc parts. Though Holland produces hardly ny thing except butter and cheefe, the country is the rnoft commercial, and its merchants the richeft in the world. They import a thoufand (hip-loads of timber every year from the Baltic, which, by the advantage of their faw- mills, they cut out and prepare at an eafy expence, ''tc building (hips and houfes, and fell to their neigh- bours to great advantage. They alfo import many hundred (hip-loads of corn, which they fell to fuch nations as happen to have had bad crops; often buying up the Britifh grain when it is cheap, and felling ic to us again when the price ij advanced. But they gain much more by the monopoly of the fine fpices, and their fifheries, than by all the other branches of their trade. As they obtained the former by means the moft unjuftifiable, fo they forcibly alfo broke into the latter, and in a manner monopolized the herring and whale fifheries, thofe Inexhauftible funds of wealth, in which they furpafs every other nation. The natives of the United Provinces are of a good ftature, and inclined to be corpulent, but are remark- able in general for a heavy a'lkward mien. Their yery politically eft.ibliiled a free port in thofe feas, features however are regular, and the complexions of not only as a magazine to fmuggle all fores of European goods into the Knglifh. tiench, and Spanifh fettle- ments, but alfo for receiving the fiiperfluous produce of thofe colonies. The low-priced coffee, cocoa, cotton, and in fadl all the produftions of the Weft- India ifiands, as well as of Surinam, find their way into Ainfterdam and Rotterdam, whence they are fcnt into VVcflphalia, and all the weftern parts of Germany, where they are fold to great advantage. Their trade to Turky and the Levant feems at firft fight to be confidcrablv againft them; but when we confider that they export hither a great quantity of their fine Leyden cloih, thence importing chiefly the rough materials for European manufaiSlurcs, and very little for their own confumption, this branch of trade will alfo be found much to their advantage. No. 22. fuch as are not expofed to the weather, fu(Hciently fair. Their young women are exceeding handfome, and make a good appearance in a coach, or fitting pofture; but their motion is extremely flow. Before they attain the age of tweni^-fivt their faces become red and bloated, and they ceafe to be amiable. This change is probably owing to too great an indulgence in the ufe of fpirituous liquors. It is rot unlikeljT that the ftovcs which they place under their petticoats in winter, have alfo a pernicious influence on their health; and fome have imagined this praflice to be the reafon why they do not breed fo long as other women. The better fort of people imitate the French fafhions in their drefs, but thofe who arc ftamped with the genuine charaiSter of thcii native country, never fail to load themfelves with an enormous incumbrance of T t t iloatht. 262 THE MODERN [F^ofnvE. cloaths. Both men and women wear at lead two i nrc ufually cmpii.yuj in ti:c nii'iiMiy I'ervicr, sr.d waiftcoatt, with as many coats; and the former like- l fuinctlmcs in ilic civil department in their idjjeLli\c wife cover their limbs with double breeches and trow- { fers : the women's petticoats nre fo very fhort, tl.at they difcover half the leg; and the men's coats arc ufu.illy as ill-fliapcd as their bodies, having no plaits, but long pockets, almoft as high as their arms. I'h: women tie up their hair in a roll, and adorn it with two or three black knots. They ufe little other covering for their heads in the houfe, but wear a hood when they go abroad. The girl- which ply at th«ir muTic-houres, or brothels, are drefled in a coat and jacket, not unlike the riding-habit, which fuil* but ill with the Dutch (hape. Sir William Temple, whofe long refidence among the Dutch afforded him an opportunity of obfcrving their chara£ler, diftinguiOies the people of this country into five clafies, namely, the peafants and farmers, fea-faring men, merchants and tradefmen ; thofe that live upon their cAates, or the iniereft of their money ; and the military officers. The peafants, he obferved, were induflrious people, but exceeding flupid, little afFefted by pafTionate words, but e.:fily managed by fair language, and readily yield- ing to reafon, if you give them time to underftand it. Of fea-faring men he remarked, that they were a plain, but a much rougher people, fcldom ufing more words than are necefTary about their bufmefs, and in refpe£l of valour rather paiTive than aiHivc. As to the trading people in general, whether mer- thants or mccbauicks, their wits are fomcthing (harper than thofe of either the former clafTes, being improved by the converfation of foreigners ; but even thofe are much better at imitation than invention, fometimes fucceeding fo fai ^« to ciccJ the original by dint of unwearied application. They exert all their fkill to take advantage of the folly or ignorance of thofe with whom they have any dealing ; and are great extortioners when there is no law to rellrain them; but in other cafes they are the plaineft and befl dealers in the world. Thofe who live on their patrimonial ellates in great cities, refcrnble the merchants and tradefmen in the ■nodefly of their drefs and their parfimonious way of living ; but between the education and manners of thofe clafTes there is a very wide difference. The former, after they come from fchool, are fent to the univeifities of Leyden or Utrecht, whe e they go through the common fludies of thofe place^, but apply provinces. They aro apt to value themfcitc* inuic upon their nobility than men Jo in other coiintiics, where it is more common ; loitking upon it difhunuur- able to marry below their rank, and hardly ever cun- dcfccnding to make an alliance, even to extricate an involved fortune, I'hcy imitate the French in their drefs, their mien, their talk, their diet, :iiid iheir gallantry; but their imitation is generally Lukward. They are however an honeft, good-humoured, gcntlc- man-like fort of men, and ufually acquit themfclves with honour in the fervice of their country. The officers of the army follow the fafhions and cufloms of the gentry, as do many of ilic rich merchants fons. Some cufloms and difpofKions however fe;:m general to all the clafTes in the nation. I'hc mofl confpicuous chara^eriflic is a great frugality and order in their expences. What they can fpare from their domellic charges is laid out in the ornament and furniture of their houfes, rather than keeping great tables, (iix cloaths or equipages. 'I'heir charity i:> r.-ith^r na'.ijiial, and regulated by the orders of the flate, than moved by the common objcils of cnmpaffion. Avarice ex- cepted, 'all appetites and palTions are lefs violent here than in any other country. Quarrels are very rare, revenge feldom heard of, and jcaloufy hardly known. Their tempers are too phlegmatic fur merriment, and too cool for the ardour of love. The fame infenfibi- lity, however, which renders ihem indifferent to plea-, furs, difpofes them to uncommon afCduity and conflant application in the purfuit of fuch objects as are to be attained more by the cfTorts of labour than genius; and upon the whole, the air of this country may be confidered as the Bsotian climate of modern times. The people are utter (Irangers to freedom of thought, and notwithflanding their government is ill fome degtes popular, vcr" few perfons venture to fpeak their fentimcnis on public affairs The natives of thofe provinces, panicularly Holland and Zealand, are generally not fo long lived as in other parts of Europe. Both fcxes begin to decay at If.^fl ten years fooner than in Britain or France. The prevailing difeafe'i of the climate arc flubburn inter- mitting and remitting fevers, the rheumatifm, gout, and fcurvy; and when the fummers are very hot, they produce putrid feveis of the moft dangerous kind. No poor people are to befeen in the (Ireets or public places of this ftatc, the government having made themfelves chiefly to the civil law, by which the | pruviflon tor their I'upport, and there b:ing hofpicals jurifprudence of their country is in a great meafure fur the aged as well as difeafed of all denoitiinatioiis; governed. When young gentlemen have finifhed * but the hws of the country are very fcvere againfl their education at home, if their relations be wealthy, ' va^z^bonds and idle people. they are fent abroad, to England or France, for the The lower part of the houfes in Holland is lined fake of improvement, the whole defign of their edu- with white Dutch tiles, and their kitchen furniture cation being to qualify them for the magiflracy in the j of copper, pewter, and iron, are kept (o exceeding towns and provinces, which however is more honour- able than lucrative in this country. The gentry or nobility are not numerous, efpecially in Holland, many of thofe families having been extin- guifhed in the war with Spain. Thofe that remain bright, that it affords a flroiig proof of their cleanli- iiefs. Their beds and tables are covtr.'d with the befl and ftnelt linen ; their rooms are adorned with piiftures, and their yards and gardens with flowers. They heat their rooms with ftoves, placed either under- Netherlands ] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 2(5') underneath or round the apartments, which render the beat r(]ual on all fides. Mechanics will work in them dripped to the (hirt in the coldcft feafon. The women have little (loves or pans of lighted peat, which they put into a fmall fquare box, and lay Milder their feet. People of condition have thofe car- tied with them upon vifits, and even to church, where they have not the convenience of the other fort of Moves. The diet of the Dutch boors or farmers is ufually mean, confining moftly of roots, herbs, four milk, and pulfc} but in the towns the common peopile live fomething better. All ranks in the nation are much addicted to the ufe of butter, and thofe of the inferior c^afles feldoni take a journey without a butter-box in their pocket. Here is not only good beer, but wine and brandy in great plenty, which are almoft as cheap as lieer; and the Geneva is alfo cheap and good. The ditftrfionsof the Hollanders are bowls, billiards, chefs, and tennis, as with ut ; but they do not feem to be fo much addidted to th« games of chance, unlefs that of verheeven, or trick-track reverfed. Shooting wild gcefe and ducks in winter, and angling in fummer, make another part of their paftime. In the mod rigo- rous feafon of the year, fledges and flcates are a great diverfion. Both women and men ufe them alike, to carry their goods to the market, as well as for pleafure. The fledge is drawn by a horfe, or putbed along by a man in flcates. When the fnow is upon the ground, and the ftreets frozen, young gentlemen and ladies appear abroad in the mod magnificent fledges. The perfon drives his horfe himfelf, which is covered with a rich flcin or caparifon, and a fine tuft of feathers; and the gentlcmati or lady is wrapped up in furs, or B fine Indian quilt. The fledges are of various fhapes, finely painted, gilt, and varnifhcd, and the horfes har- nefs is rich and fplendid. Bandy is another play much ufed when the country is covered with ice and fnow, and at this they are very dexterous. They fcldom play for any thing but drink, which hardly ever fails to conclude the diverfioni of the day. In fumrntr, it is common to fee multitude* of people walking out on the banks of the fine canals, well planted with trees, or liy the lea fhore, or perhaps ill the public gardens. Almoft all thofe excurfions end in the tavern, where they meet with a variety of little amuiemcnts and agreeable entertainment, at a cheap rate. Even common Libourers indulge them- fclves in fuch recreations. The fame dif^inflions are not maintained in Holland between the wealthy traders and meihanics as in other countries. They converfe pretty much upon a level; neither is it oafy to know the man from the niafler, or the maid from her miftrefs. Among other entertainments, drinking of tea has here long been univerfal among all ranks of people. The Hollanders have mufick-houfes licenfrd by au- thority, for which a tax is paid ; and the mafter of fuch a houfe may keep as many wenches as he plcafes. The girls alfo pay a tax to the government on their being admitted into thofe receptacles of pleafure. Hither the people openly rtfun, and when a fuflicient company is afleroblcd, they fup tcgether In a common room, where good entertainment is provided for them. The fupper is fucceeded by a ball, whence any couple is at liberty to retire tu a private room. Tliere are feveral forts ot thofe houfcs of pleafure, fome for the gentry, and others for the Teamen and coin'.non people, whicl^are tolerated by the government with the view of preventing greater evils. Their ufual way of travelling is in trechfchutes, or covered boats, drawn by a horfe at the rate of three miles an hour, for which the fare does not amount to a penny a mile. A pafienger in fuch a vehicle has the conveniency of carrying a portmanteau, or proviCons, fo that he need not be at any expence in a public houfe by the way, As to the inns and public boufes on the road, they generally afford a (oft bed and clean linen; but it is difficult to procure any other bed chamber than one of the little cabins which are ranged round a great room, where people of diffe- rent ranks lie promifcuoufly, and dillurb one another the whole night. The bedlleads in thofe cabins are likcwile placed fo high, as to be not only inconvenient, but even dang;t;rous. There is no difputing with a Dutch inn-keeper, either about the reckoning or any other particular; for be will enhance the bill if you find fault with it, and procure a magiflrate to levy his demand by force. The revenue of this republic confifls in the ordinary funds which the fevcn provinces provide annually, according to their refpcfiive proportions, upon the petition of the council of ftato, and the computation of the public charges for the cnfuing year, Gclivered by them to the flates general; as well as what is levied' in the conquered towns and country of Brabaint, Flanders, and the Rhine. The whole of this revenue generally amounts to about twenty-five millions ot guilders a year. The principal funds out of which this revenue is raifed, are the different excifes, the cufloms, and (he land-tax. The excifes are fa very high in general, that they are not to be paralleled in any part of Europe. Hardly one article of the necefTaries of life is exempted from this heavy tax. X'|i= cpflom? however are mode- rate, as is likewife the land-tax, on account of the great expence incurred by the land- holders in fupport- ing their dykes and wind-mills, and in keeping the country dry. ' All the excifi:s and taxes laid upon landed property and immoveable pofTeflioiis, are collected by the ma^^ giflrates of the refpedlive diflricis; but thefs which arifefrom uncertain confumptions, are generally farmed out to the perfons who bid mod for them ; foine for three months, fome for fix, and others for a y^ar. The collefiion, receipt, and payment of all (h in the afli:mbly of the dates of Zealand; as he has likewifc in their council of date, and chamber of accounts, as fovercign of Klufliing and Terveer. He alfo appoints the magif- trates, and confequently difpofes of the votes of thofe two towns, as well as the votes of the nobility; and tiiere are but flx towns which fend deputies to the afltmbly of the province of Zea'~nd, The council of date confids of reprefentatives of ihc feveral provinces, of which the province of Hol- land fends three, the provinces of Guelderland, Zea- land, and Utrecht, two each; and the other three provinces one a-piece. The council of '^ate for all the United Provinces therefore confids of twelve members, who do not vote by provinces, as in the aflembly of the dates-general, but by general voices. Every deputy prefldes by turns, and in this council, the dadtholder or governor of the United Provinces has a voice, and the cading vote. The treafirer-gcneral has a feat here, and may give his opinion^ but has no vote, though his place be for life ; as is that of the deputy fent by the nobility of Holland, and the deputies of the province of Zealand. The other deputies are appointed only for two, three, or four years. This council of date executes the rcfolutions of the dates - general, propofes the number of troops requifite for the enfuing year, wiih the method of raifnig them, and of levying money for the exigencies of the govern- ment. They alfo fuperintend the militia, fortifications, and contributions levied on the enemy in time of war, with the revenues and government of the conquered places acquired fince the Union, which being obtained by the common arms of the date, depend on the dates- general, anJ not on any particular province. The authority of the ftadtholder enters deeply into the government of this country, and though the dates have more than once endeavoured to fupprefs it, their attempts for this purpofe have always proved ineffefiual, and fometimet dangerous to the public liberty. This great office commenced immediately .ifter the union of Utrecht, in the perfon of William prince of Orange, in whofe family it has modly continued ever fince, and is now made hereditary by a law of the dates. The ftadtholder is vefted with the command of all the forces both by fea and lan4; and he has the difpofal of all the military employments, govern* ments of towns, &c. He likewifi enjoys the power of pardoning crimes. As the ftates-general reprefent the fovereignty of the ftate, fo does the ftadtholder its dignity, by public guards and the attendance of all the military officers, as well as by the fplendor of his court. At the end of every year the council prefents to the ftates-general an eftimate of the expences which are judged necefiary for the enfuing year, that they may demand of the ftates- provincial their refpeflive pro- portions. In every hundred pound fterling each province raifes the following fums, by fuch ways U u M Md \ 1 j66 II MODERN [Europe. and meani as they rer|ie£iively judge to be the nioft proper. L- i. d. Guelderland - - 7 Holland - - - 4» o /c-aland - - M '3 Utrecht - - • 8 Fricfland - - - >7 Overyflil - - - S Groningen and the Omlands 8 o 100 o o The clumber of accounts takes off part of the (rouble from the council of ftate. The bunncfs of the former Is to examine and ftatc all accounts of the t'evcral receivers, aiid to controul and regifler the orders of the council of ftate, which difpofcs of the revenue, I'his chamber is compofed of two deputies fent from each province, who are changed every three years. The next great office is the court of admiralty, whiirh, alter the ftatcs-general, by the advice of the council uf ftatc, have concluded on the number and force uf the fleet to be fitted out, has the abfolute difpofal of all marine afFairs, as well in the choice and equipment of the fcveral fhips, as in ifluing the money allotted for that fervicc. In Amderdam the fovercign power is lodged in thirty-fix fenators, who hold their places for life. When any of them dies, the remaining fenators cle£l another in his room, the people not being permitted to have any fhare in the nomination. The fenate has the choice of the deputies to be fent to the flates of Holland, and appoints the chief magiftrates of the city, namely, the burgo-mafters and efchevins. The number of burgo-mafters is four, of whom three are cliofcn annually, one of them remaining in office J but the three laft chofen are ftyled the reigning burgo-maftiTS for the year, and after the firft three months prclide by turns. They are eleded by a majority of fiich perfons in the fenate as have been hurgo-mafters or efchevins, and they have the difpofal of all inferior offices that fall vacant during their ad- minillration. They likewife ifTue money out of the treafury for the public fervice, and are in a manner vedcd with the whole executive power of the ftate, Thofe offices however are attended with little profit, the falary not exceeding five hundred gilders or fifty pounds a year; but the perfons who hold them are liable to no extraordinary charge, either for equipage or entertainments; ind when they have acquitted thcm- felvcs with reputation, they are generally preferred tu more lucrative places. In every town there is a court of juflice, conflfting of the efchevins, or aldermen, who are fole judges in all crifninal cafes ; but in civil, there lies an appeal to the court of juftice of the province, if the matter in difpute be of importance. They never pronounce fcntence of death, without firft communicating the cafe to the burgo- matters j but this is only a matter of form, the latter having no power to controul or fufpend the juilgmeiit. The ciiui\trics lying between the Scyne and Rhine, and united to the Roman empire by Julius C;efar, were anciently named Gallia Ucii-ica. On the dicliiic of that empire, the Franks iu Germany eredled a kingdom in Gaul, under the denomination of Fraiikcn- land or France, of which the territory of Gallia Uelgica was eficemed a part. When Germany be- came feparated from France, moll of this country fell to the fliarc of the former; but being fo much wailed by frequent depredations, it was almod abandoned by the natives, and for want of cultivation, cither over- run with forells, or covered with bogs and marflica. The Franks .ind .northern nations divided it into feventeen provinces, over which they placed as many governors or fovcreigns, with limited powers, who tranfaiSied nothing of confequence without the confent of the fiatcs, confiding of the nobility and clergy. The governors or fovercigns of Hrabant, Limburg, Luxemburg, and Guelderland, were flyled dukes j ihofe of Flanders, Artois, Hainault, Holland, Zealand, Namur, and Zutphen, had the title of counts or earls; while thofe of Friefland, Mechlin, Utrecht, Overyflel, and Groningen, enjoyed th : dignity of barons; nnd the governor of Antwerp was dillinguifhcd with the rank of marquis. About the year 1430, all thofe diticrent govern- ments were, by marriages, conqued, or contraiHs, united in the houfc of iiurgundy, of which Charles, furnamed the Warlike, being killed in a battle with the Switzers, the princefs Mary, his only daughter and heirefs, married Maximilian of Auflria, fon of the emperor Frederick, whom he fuccceJed in the empire, in 1482. The archduke Philip, the iflue of this alliance, married Joanna, the daughter and heirefs o'' Ferdinand and Ifabella, king and queen of Spain, whofe fon, Charles V. became entitled to the Nether- lands, then under the dominion of Spain, and after> wards denominated the Audrian Netherlands, on their defcending to the heir of that houfe. This prince condituted the provinces and territories of Burgundy one of the circles of the empire, by the name of the circle of Burgundy. After the ereiSlion of the different governments ia the Netherlands, thofe provinces enjoyed great privi- leges and an extenfive commerce for many years. No laws were made, nor taxes impofed, without th: confenc of the ref|je(Siivc dates of each province ; neither were any foreigners fuffcred to hold a pod in the adminiftra- tion, or any foreign troops introduced, till Charles the Wirlike, being at war with France, invaded thofe ancient regulations, which occafioncd fome difcontent. The emperor Charles V. quartered upon the provinces dill greater bodies of troops, confiding of Spaniards, Italians, and Germans ; but this prince being b:lovcd by the people, they fubmitted without murmuring to thofe exertions of the royal authority, till their liberties continuing to be infringed, under the government of his Ton Philip II, an unpopular fovercign, a revolt was excited in the Netherlands, which terminated in the Antwerp.] GENJSkAL TRAVELLER. 267 the rubverrmn of the Spjiiifh power in thoH; fcven | It it diviJcd into four parts, namely, the quarter of ilivirions of the country, al'icrvvards culkd the United | I.uuvain, Antwerp, Bruflcis, and Uoidc ! c. Provinces. Since that lime the I'cvcral provinces have The city of Louvain flands on the river Dyle, maintained a flridl confederacy, and poflefll-d ihcnif^lvcs I fifieen miles north-caft of nruflels, and h about fcven of important fettlements in various tju.iricrs of the | miles in circumference, but a place of no great ftrcnjtii. globe. But though the profefled enemies bf regal government, they have at length veftcd the executive power in a ftadthuldcr, whofc authority dififcrt little more than in name, from that of a limited monarch. AUSTRIAN NETHERLANDS. 'HE Auftrian Netherlands are bounded on the north by tli-' L'liiicd Provinces ; on ilic eaft It was formerly very confidcrable for its manuf.xfturcs, cohtainiilg at one time no lefs than four thoufand mader weavers; but it is now much declined, thougli it Aill has a trade in fine linen. Its great ornament at prefent is the unlverflty, founded about the year Q26, but firft endowed by John IV. duke of Brabant, in 1525. The fltuation and buildings of this univer- fity are much admired, as well as its noble endow- ments. The other towns in this quarter are, Tienen or Tilmont, St. Truen, or St. Tron, Lewe, Dieft, by Germany; on ih? fottih by France; and on the ! Gemblcurs, Halen, Sicken, Judoigne, Hannue, Lan- well by part of P'rancc, and tlic Englif!' channel, den, and Ramillics. 'I'hey ccnfiH of ten provinces, namely, Brabant, In the quarter of Antwerp the chief towns are, Antwerp, Malincs or Mechlin, Limburg, Luxemburg, Namur, Hainault, Cambrefis, Artois, and Flanders; extending in length about two hundred miles, and in breadth a hundred and thirty. The province of Flan- ders is one continued flat; but in others there is a mixture of hills and valleys, intcrfperfed with woods, cnclofures, and champain. South of Bruflcis lies the forcd of Soignies, and farther fuuthward that of Ar- denne, being each a remainder of the great Hyrcyniaii Forelh The air is much better here than in the United Provinces ; except on the coaft of P'landers and Brabant, which are as unhealthful as Holland. The chief rivers are, i, The Macfc, which tifing in Burgundy, runs northward through Lorrain and Champain into the Netherlands, palTing by Verdun, Sedan, and Dinanr, and receiving the Sambre at Namur, proceeds north-wcH by Liege, Maeftricht, Venlo, and Grave; whence, having joined the Waal, it runs towards the weft, and difcharges itfelf in the Britifh Tea. a. The Scheld, which rifes on the con- fines of Picardy, and runs north-eaft by Cambray, Valenciennes, Condc, Tournay, and Oudenard, unit- ing its waters with the Lis at Ghent, and thence running through Antwerp, continues its courfe north into the United Provinces : one branch of it, called the OHer-Schcld, runs north, and the other, called the Weftern-Scheld, runs almofl due weft, into the fea. The other moft confidcrable rivers are, the Demer, Dyle, Rupple, Nethe, Gut, Senna, Scarpe, Deule, and Dondcr ; bcfides which are feveral noble canals, pa. ticular'y thofe of Bruflcis, Ghent, Bruges, Oflend, and Dunkirk. The chief ports in Flanders arc, Gravelin, Dunkirk, Newport, Oftend, and Sluys. The principal of thcfe is Oftend, the others hardly admitting (hips of burthen. Antwerp in Brabant, near the mouth of the Scheld, is an excellent harbour, but the Dutch have in a manner cut o(F all communi* cation with the fea, by the forts which they have built at the mouth of the river. Sluys, in Dutch Flanders, is alfo a pretty gcnd port. The duchy of Brabant, including the marquifate of Antwerp, and the lordfliip of Malines or Mechlin, lies contiguous to the United Provinces on the fouth. Antwerp, Breda, Lillo, I.ier, Hercntals, and Hoog- flraten. Antwerp, capital of the marquifate of Antwerp, is fltuate on the caft bank of the Scheld, in 4 degrees 15 minutes of caft longitude, and in 51 degrees 15 minutes of north latitude, twenty- five miles north of Bruflcis, and thirty weft of Louvain. It lies in a low fenny ground, and is built in the form of a crcfcent. The Scheld here being twenty foot deep, and the tide rifiiig twelve foot more, (hips of burthen may unload at the keys. Eight canals alfo are cut from the river for the convenience of carrying vclTcls into the town, fomc of which will contain a hundred fail. This circumftance rendered it one of the moft fafe and commodious harbours in Europe, till the Dutch cut ofF the communication with the fea, by their forts towards the mouth of the Scheld, and thus diverted the trade to their own ports. The city is about feven miles in circumference, and furrounded by a beautiful wall and baftions faced with ftone. The top of the wall is not lefs than a hundred foot broad, and well planted with trees. There are thirteen noble gates, of which eight front the river, and have near them their feveral keys, where vefTels are laden and unladen. The flreets of the city are broad and regular, and the buildings magnificent. The citadel, which ftands o . the fouth fide of the city, on the bank of the Scheld, is a pentagon of five royal baftions, about a mile in compafs. Here r.re large repofitories for ammunition, and provifion, with convenient accommodation for three thoufand foldiers. This fort, which was eredled during the government of the duke of Alva, gave the firft check to the trade and greatnefs of Antwerp. The trade of the Englifh was once fo great at this place, that they had an exchange to themfelves. There is another common to all nations, built after the model of that of London, but fupported by forty-three pillars of white marble, and ftanding in the centre of four large ftreets. The commerce of Antwerp was at its greateft height about the middle of the fixteenth cen- tury, when it was fuppofed to contain two hundred thoufand inhabitants. But the Dutch forming their fute its THE M R N [EUROPI. rt.ite a little after, ind making ihemfelvei mafieri of the iniiidi of Zealand, which lie at the mouih of the Scheld, diverted the current of trade to Amrierdam, jnd other cities of Holland. Thii event wai not a little promoted by the oppreflive government of the king of Spain. To which we may add, queen ElizAbeih'i being at war with that crown, and cun- fequently favouring the derivation of the trade from the Spanifti dominions towards the "United Provinces. The city of Breda, the capital of Dutch Brabant, h fltuate in 4 degrees 45 minutes of eaft longitude, and in 51 degrees 35 minutes of north latitude, in a flat country on the bunk of the river Merle, thirty miles norih-caft of Antwerp, and as many to the fouthward of Rotterdam. It is a large, pn|>ulous, well built city, regularly fortified, and has ufually a numerous garrifon of the troops of the ftatei. It was taken from the Spaniards in the year 1637, by the prince of Orange, in whofc family the property and civil gnvernnu-nt of the place fiill remains. Bergen op zoom ftandj on an eminence in the middle of a murafs, half a league from the eaftern branch of the Scheld, with which it has a communication by a navigable cuiial. It lies about twenty miles north of Antwerp, and as many to the wrftward of Breda, This place, which is ftrongly fortified by nature as well as art, is of great importance, not only by fe- curing the communication oetween Holland and Zea- land, but opening to the Dutch a way into Aufirian Brabant. The chief towns in the quarter of Bruflels are, Bruflels, Nivclle, Scnef, and Vilvorden. Bruflels, the capi': of the province of Brabant, and of all the Auftrian Netherlands, is fituate in 4 dcgri;..;! U minutes of eaft longitude, and 50 degrees ji minutes of north latitude. It ftands on the fide of a hill on the little river Senne, twenty-two miles fouth uf Antwerp, and twcnty-fix fouth-eaft of Ghent. It i^ furrounded by a wall and other fortifications ; but being fix miles in circumference, they would require an army to defend them. In this city are many noble abbeys and monafteries. The river Senne running through it, and joining the kupple, which falls into the Scheld by a fine navigable canal, near twenty miles in length, this place has a free commu- nication with Antwerp and other cities. The country round it is well planted with fruit and foreft trees, and watered with fountains, canals, and rivulets. Nivclle ftands near fifteen miles fouth of Bruflels, near the head of the river Senne, and is one of the mofc pleafant towns in the Net^erlands, but has no other fortifications than a fingle wall. This town en- joys great privileges, and is confiderable for a linen manufaflure equal to that of Cambray. Here al fo is a nunnery of noble ladies, who enjoy all manner of innocent freedoms, and are not confined to their doyfter, as in other places. Their governefs, ftyled Madame de Nivelle, is chofen by themfelves, with the confcnt of the fovereign and the pope. Senef is a town five miles to the fouthward of Nivelle, memorable for a battle fought near it in 1671, between 2 the French and Dutch} and Vilvorden is rituatrd'on the river Sennr, between Mechlin and l^rulUh, two leagues diltant from each. In the quarter of Bois-le-Dur, the chief towns are. Bois Ic-Duc, Hclmont, liindhaven, Megtn, Uaven- ftein. Grave, Maeftricht, Crevecirur, anil Uoxtal. Bois-le-Duc is fltuate in 6 degrees if) minutes of eaft longitude, and in 31 degrees 45 minutes t>f north latitude, on the river Dommet, twenty-three miles north' call of Breda, and feventeen miles weit of Grave, It (lands on a rifing ground, in the middle of a large morafs, and during great part of the year can be approached only by caufcyi, on which are built forts and redoubts for its defence. The town is about four or five miles in circumference, regularly fortified, and is one of the Itrongell upon the Dutch frontiers. I'hrough it run feveral navigable canals, over which lie fifiy flune bridges. Ten of the prin- cipal flreeis center in a fpacious market-place, fuf< rounded with good buildings. Maeftricht Hands on the wed bank of the river Maefe, fifteen miki north of Liege, and thirty- five eafl of Louvain, It is about four miles in circum- ference, and ftrongly fortified. The llrccts arc large, the old buildings of wood, and the new of brick. The ftadt-hoiife is built after the model of that of Amfterdam. On the weft fide the city has a uiburb, called the Wyck, of which the bifhop of Liege has the civil government, though both this and the city be within the dominions of the Dutch. The little province of Mechlin, or Malines, it about ten miles long, and five broad, lis capital, which bears the fame name, ftands on the river Dyle, about twelve miles norih-eaft of Brullcls, eleven miles north-weft of Louvain, and thirteen fouth-eaft of Antwerp. It is a large well built city, and fortified, but of no great ftrength } confifting of feveral iflandi, made either by the branches of the Dyle or artificial canals, over which are a great many bridges. The tanners and weavers trade flouriihed much here formerly, and are ftill confiderable. The town is alfo famous for cafting bells and great guns; but the manufa£lure for which it is now moft diftinguifhed is that of lace, confidered as the fineft in the Low Countries. On the border of this province ftands the little town of Arfchot, ere£ied into a duchy by Charles V. It is feated on the river Demer, twelve miles to the eaft- ward of Mechlin, and has a fmall territory belonging to it, the inheritance of the ancient family of Croys. The province of Limburg is bounded on the north and eaft by the duchy of Juliers ; on the fouth by Luxemburg, and on the weft by the bifhoprick of Liege i being about thirty miles long, and twenty broad. It confifts of good arable and pafture lands, with plenty of wood, and fome of the beft iron mines in the Netherlands. The chief towns arc, Limburg, Dalem, Baldock, and Valkenburg, or Fauquemont. The town of Limburg ftands on a fteep rock twenty miles fouth-eaft of Liege, and about twelve fuuth-weft of Aix-la-Chapelle, and is a little fortified town, but not of great ftrength. The The /t r//'// f'/ // /ff/n/ (>/ yf/ff/f/^/ /// f/f//y(f ' /'/ ff /(r/n/ f>/ \ ', "/' I /»('./ Uttt'V-' /l/^it/-i/rf.£t to u /nt/n 4ii>/i/itt rtu'f:)) t/'t'M f f/rf/.ittit/ t>/f/,//wtM Jidf I'ti t ti t'iiii/i o/ fn I'li^r : //ft' ^y/ri'rt'j A'/ui tt/ttr fftij'j't'tt' y (^rii- //ito^(/itijnifi/ ioffvi n (ttio//ifi r/t yt ttii-Jt/if. it nt/ on'i t/utt it/t<>t/ii- /• tt>i//i'i/ii:) ////'//ii'i/ftii/f/// '//'//// tf/it'/i,\ /'< 1/ , LuxFMBuno.&c] GENERAL TRAVELLER. m I'hf province of Luxemburg ii bounded on the north by the biflinprick of Liege and duchy of Lim- burg I on the eaft by the river Mufcllc, which divldei Ic from I'rieri ( on the fouth by the duchy of Lorraini ■nd on the we(t by the river Macfe, which feparatei it from the counliei of Ch4mpaign, ilainault, and Namur ( being about fcventy milci long and fuiy broad. The north part of it ii • fruitful foil, but the fouth it incumbered with the mouniaini, and the fored of Ardenne. The north divifian, which ii much the lirgeft, ii fubjeft to Auftria, and the fouthern to France, The chief towni are, Luxemburg, Thion- ville, Monlmedy, Damvillera, Yvoix, La Forte, Aftenay, Morville, Rode y7acherrn,rConin^iMach<:ren, Siricic, Maficrei, DurlChap(lle. It ii % billinp'i ftc, and iheie the ftatei of tb« ptoviitc* ;i(I'cmblr, The Cambrrfii, or province of Cambray, ii fitu»tc4 in the fouth-wcft part of the Netherlands, and ii a fruitful country, about twenty-five milei long and ten broad. The chief towns are Cambray, Chateau, Cambrcfii, and Crevecctur, Cambray Is fituate on the river Scheld, near iti fuurce, fourteen miles fouth-wcft of Valenciennes, and fifteen fouth-eaft of Douay. It ii a large well built city, regularly fortified and defended by two citadels I and as the adjacent country may alfo ba overflowed, it is confidered as one of the ftrongeft towni in the Netherlands, The principal manufai^ura ii that of fine linan, thence called Cambric. The province of Artoii liei between Flanderi and Picardy, and ii about fixty milei long, and twenty* (iva Woad. It wa* confirmed to France by the Pyre- nean treaty in 16591 *"(' having been fo long in the oofTeflion of that crown, the natives are perfe£lly afli- milated with the I^rench in the other provincei of the kingdom. The chief towns are, Arras, St, Omer, Aire, BethUne, St. Venant, BafTaume, Hefden, Ter> rouen, Leiis, Ave^no de Compte, St. Pnul, and Mont St.EIoy. Arras, the capital of the province, is fituate in 1 degrees jtt niiniitM of eaft longitude, and in 50 degrees at> tainufca of north latitude ; ftanding on the river Scarpe, twelve nfiles fouth-wcft of Douay, and twenty-two itillet north-weft of Cambray. It is a laige fortified town, with confiderable manufaAures both of linen and woollen ; but it i^ chiefly diftinguifhed for that tapeftry, whence its name is derived. It is alfo the fee of a biOiop, who is fuffragan to the arch> bifhop of Camliray. The cathedral, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, is a magnificent ftrufture, tn a chapel here the priclh fliCw l^'wax taper burning, which they pretend doci lioi confunte, and was fent to them from heaven. They have alfo a pot of manna, faid to have been obtained in the fame vay } and this they expofe in a dry feafon, when prayers are put up for rain. The town of Arras is generally well built, the ftreets broad, and the market-place fpacioui. Its ancient name was Atrabatum, and it was the capital of the Atrabates in the time of Ciefar. St, Omer ftands on the river Aa, twenty mile* fouth of Dunkirk, and eighteen miles fouth-eaft of Calais. It is a large trading town, having a communication with the fea by a navigable canal, which extends thence to Graveline. It has been famous for an Englifli feminary of Jefuits, and is the fee of a bifhop, fuffragan to the archbifhop of Cambray. X X x The ayo THE MODERN [Europe. 1 1 II The province of Flanders is bounded on the north by tht Cerlnirt oetin, and (he United Provinces > on ttie ii(t hy the Brikbai«t ; on the Touth by Hainault and Artois ; and on t.he weft liy another part of Artois, inti the Getnlan oitiH •, being about flxty miles long one weft of Mens. it IPE. aro even un- Fiere t of ariOt Fkarck.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. tpfc It ii ■ l";e e!egant town, containing feventeen pari&fi, and has a good linen manufa£lu:e. Yfrt»t or Ipres, ii fituate in a flat country, on the river Iprc, about ten milM wcrtward of Menin, and •igbtcen northward of Lifle, It is a large town, regu- larly fortified, and by its fluices can lay the neighbour- ing country under water. The ftreets are broad, and the market-place the moft capacious of any in Flan- ders ; furrounded by a piacza ; but the houfes are built of timber. The chief towns in French Flanders are, Lille, Dunkirk, Mardyke, Gravelin, Berg St. Winock, Doway, O'chies, Armentiers, La BalTe, L'Eolufe, St. A' ..dr Lanoy, and Bourbourg, L'lUr, rr Ryfleil, is fituate on the river Deu!e, twenty-fi' e miles north of Arras, and fourteen wefi of Tou nay. It had formerly ftood in a lake, on which account it received its name ; but the waters are now drained off. The filk manufafiure, with that of fine linen and cambrick, are here in great per- fection { and their camblets are much admired. It is the capital of French FJanders; and from the elegance of it: buildings, and its flourifhing trade, ufually ftyled Ptotit Paris. '■'i Dunkirk 1« fituate on the Britifli channel, at the -mouth of the river Coin, twenty miles eaft of Cahis, twentyith-wefc of Oftend, and fifty eaft of Dover. The fortifications of this port coft France an incredible fum of money. The place was taken from the Spaniards by the united forces of Britain and France, and was put into the hands of the former nation in 1658, but afterwards fold to the latter in the reign of Charles II. The French much improved the fortifications, and in the fucceeding wars it was the ftation of their privateers, which greatly molefted the EngliSi trade. At the treaty of Utrecht, therefore, Britain infifted on the harbour and fortifications being demotifbed, which was accordingly done; but in the jate war the French attempted to rebuild the Worics, but were again obliged to demolifh them by the pea-5 ..It. R N C E. CHAP. I. Of tbi fituattm -— air '—mouitt»ms—rivert—-pminctt —xhief towns np H E kingdom of France is fituated between ■*■ 5 degrees of weft, and 8 degrees of eaft longi- tude, and between 42 and 51 degrees of north latitude. It is bounded on the north by the Britiih channel and the Auftrian Netherlands ; on the eaft by Germany, Swiu^rland, Savoy, and Piedmont; on the fouth by the Mediterranean Sea, and the Pyrenean mountains, which ieparatc it from Spain i and on the weft by the Bay of tj.fcay. It is almoft a fquare of fix hundred miles on each fide, except that the province of Brittany makes it irregular, by extending near a hundred miles farther to the weftward than any other part. The temperature of the air in this country is perhaps the moft healthful of any in Europe, and towards the north, the foil produces corn, wine, oil, and Hax, in great abundance. The chief mountains are, the Alps, which divide Franc: from Italy; the Pyrenees, which feparate it from Spain; the Vauge, which divides Lorrain from Burgundy and Alfacej Mount Jura, which feparatet Dau- ijl THE MODERN [Eotopt. Dauphine from Swiuerland ; the Cevrnnti, in the province of Languedoc; and mouAt Dor,- in the pro- vince of Auvergne. The principal rivert arc,' the Rhone, which . rifes in Switzerland, and i» joined at Lyons by the Soane ; after which, dividing Dauphine and Provence from Languedoc, it falli into the Mediterranean below Aries, receiving Mo in its paflage the rivers IfcfC and Durance. The Garronne rifes in the Pyrenees, and funning north-weft, falls into the Bay of Bifcay, below Bourdeaux,' after receiving the rivers Lot and Dordonne. The Charente rifes in Lrmofin, and running weftward, falls into the Bay of Bifcay below Rochiort, The Loire rifes' in the Ccvennes, whence ifunning northward, and afterwards to the weft by Orleans, it fdlls into the Bay of Bifcay below NantK, receiving in its pafiage the Aller, the Cher, Vienne, the Little Loire, the Sarte, and the Mayenne. The Seine rifes in Burgundy, and running north-weft by Paris and Roucn^ falls into the Briciih channel at Havre de Grace,- after being joined by the Yonne, the Aube, the Marne, and Oyft. The Rhine rifes in Switzerland, and running north-weft, divides Alface from Suabia, bcin^ the boundary between the territori:.:siauisa both town and country; but its greateft ftrength co»fifti in its fituatioo' among the marfhes, and in the powei of overfiowing the ei>virona upon the approach of an enemy. A navigable canal runs from it to St. Omei'a, Gravcline, Dunkirk,; Bergies^ and Ypres. The in- ■ habitants are computed at fout thoufand. Thia p'.ace Was taken by Edward III. king of England, in IJ47, and loft in th: reign of ^neen Mary, in 1557. It was anciently a good harbour, but is now fo tfhoaked up, as not to admit any veflels of burden. ^ Crefly is fituate forty-four miles fouih of Calais, and memorable for the yi£iory obtained in its neigl^ bourhood over the French, by Edward III. cf England, in 1346. 4. Abbeville ftands fifteen milc» eaft df the firitiflt channel, and is confiderable for it» woollen manu- faiQure. 5t Boulogne is fituate on the Britifti channel, at thie mouth of the river Laine, fixteen itiiles fouth-weft of Calais. This town was- taken by Henry VIIL king of England, but reftored to France^ in con- fideration of receiving three hundred thoufand cfowni. The IQe of France is bounded on the north by Picardy, on the eaft by Champaign, on the fouth by Orleanois, and on the weft by Normandy, The capital of this province, and of the whole kingdom i« Paris, fituate in a degrees 25 minutes of eaft longitude, and in 48 degrees 50 minutes of north latitude. This city is ufually divided into three parts ; the largeft of which, called the town, ftands on the north fide of the river Seine ; the city, which is the moft ancient part, confifts of three fmall iflands in the middle of the rivei ; and the other part, or the univeifity, b feated on the fouth fide of the Seine,' having in it feveral little hills. The whole town is of a- circular form, and about eighteen miles in circumference ; but though, according to this computation, it occupies more ground than London, it is not near fo populous,, the inhabitants of Paris not amounting to more thai> fevcn hundred thoufand, whereas thofe of the former are fuppofed to exceed this number, in the proportion of almoft a third part. The houfes of Paris are built of white hewn flone, five, fix, or feven ftories high ; and there are a great many palaces, with beautiful gardens, belonging to the nobility ; but being fliut up from the ftreets by high dead walls, they rather in- creafe the bulk, than add to the embellifliment of the city. The ftreets are generally Aarrow, without pave- ment for foot pafTengers, and' in the night are illumi- nated by lamps fu.'pended on ropes placed acrofs. By the computation of a late French writer, there are here fifty thoufand houfes, with a family in almoft every ftory; fifty-two pariflies, and a hundred and twenty churches, parochial, chapter, or collegiate, including chapels. There are about thirty bridges, but none of them very eonnderable, except the Pont Neuf, Isle of France, &c.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. m Ncuf, and the Pout Royal. The Louv -f, and the other royal palatres, where the kings ufeJ to refide, are now decayed buildings. The univerfity of Paris is very antient having been founded by Charlemagne in the year 790. The college for divinity, named the Sojboiinc, and from which the uiiiverfity is fome- times denominated, is one of the fined in Europe, but now upui) the decline. Among the public infti- tutions arc, the academy of fciences, that for im- proving the French language, and others for the im- provement of painting, fculpture, and architeflure, as well as that of mechanic arts and manufa£lures, fuch as works of iron, (leel, copper, brafs, wrought plate, tapeftry, he. The chief manufa£lures are thofe of gold and filver fluffs, wrought fi'ks, velvet, gold and ftlvcr lace, ribbons, tapeltry, linen, and glafs. Paris is the fee of an archbifliop, and Notre Dame the mctropoli'an church. The city is well fupplicd with provifions of all kinds, which are gene- rally fold at a cheap rate. In the day, the public fafety is protefled by a corps-de-garde, and at night, by a horfe .ind foot patrole. About twelve miles fouth-weft of Paris (lands Verfailles, fltuated on an eminence in the midft of a fine fporiing country, encompafled with hills. It confillcd originally of a caflle built by Lewis XIII. as a hunting feat, which was afterwards converted into a itingnificent palace, by Lewis XIV, who alfo annexed to it a handfo.ne town. The avenue leading to the palace divides the town into two parts; one of which is called Old Verfailles, and the other the New Town, On the fide towards Paris this avenue forms three villas, that in the middle being fixty foot wide, and the others thirty foot each, all planted with elms. The great court of the palace is four hundred and eighty foot long, with a large pavilion at each corner. It is inclofed with an iron baluilrade, and two large buildings, that form the wings on each fide, which have balconies ftpported by columns, and -adorned with fine ftatues. Thefe wings, with pavilions, ferve for offices, and have behind them others for the fame purpofe. From this court is an afcent of three marble ftcps into a large landing place, and thence by five more, into a little court paved with black and white marble; in the middle of which is a marble fountain and bafon, with ftatues of gilt copper. The front and wings are of brick and free fione, adorned with marble buds and brackets ; and before this front is a balcony, fup- ported by eight marble columns of the Doric order, with red and white fpots like jafper, and their bafes and capitals of white marble. In the two angles of tfie wings in the front are hanging pcdeflals, which fupport two clofets, encompafled with gilt iron cafes; and underneath are two bafons of white marble in the form of fliclls, where young Tritons fpoui water. The middle building has three gilt iron doors in the porch, with apartments on the right and left. On quitting the great court, through an open porch, we afc-rnd by a ftair-cafe eighty-one foot long, and thirty broad. From the porch an entrance leads to two painted halls. The cieling of one of them is No. 23. fupportcd by eight marble columns of the Doric order, with red and white veins. The capitals and bafes are of a grecnifli colour; and the columns, of which there are four on each fide, divide the hall into three parts. On the fides oppofite to each column are pilafters of the fame marble, that fupport a cornice under a plat- form ; and fronting the windows are niches with ftatues. The other hall is fupportcd by twelve columns of the Ionic order, which have behind them marble pilafters, with red, black, purple, and yellow veinsj their capitals and bafes being of white marble. From this we enter a third hall of the fame dimenfions, the cieling of which is an oflagon, with twelve double pedeftals of fine marble, on which are placed emblema- tical figures of the twelve months, in gilt copper. All the parts not hung with tapeftry are lined with marble. The royal apartment) are extremely magnificent, and richly ornamented v/ith fculptures and paintings. Their furniture, even to the bedfteads^ baluftrades, and rails, confift chiefly of mafly plate. The gardens are no lefs magnificent than the palace, and particularly abound with curious water-works. The labyrinth, which is a fine grove. Is admirabi/ executed ; and the orangery, or green houfe, is a mafter- piece of its kind. In the park of Verfailles is another palace, called Trianon, which is alfo very magnificent; and in • contiguous park, is a third royal feat, named Marly, particularly beautiful. Fontainblcau is fitukted thirty-five miles fouth-eaft of Paris, in a country that is likewife well adapted to hunting. The town is mean, but the palace, though not uniform, and though built at different times in a confufed manner, is however very commo> dious, and has an air of grandeur. The province of Champaigne is bounded on the north by Picardy, on the eaft by Lorrain, oii the fouth by Burgundy, and on the weft by the Ifle of France. The chief town is Ti-oyes, fituate on the river Seine, ninety miles fouih'-eaft of Paris. It is a hrge fortified place, computed to contain fifteen thou- fand inhabitants, and has a flouriflling linen manu- faflure. The other moft confiderable towns are* Sens, Langres, Provins, St. Dizier, Chalons, Join- ville, and Rheims. Th laft of thofe is fituated eighty-five miles northeaft of Paris, and is one of the moft elegant cities in the kingdom. Here is kept the holy oil ufed at the confecration of the French kings, which, according to their tradition, was brought from heaven by a dove. The archbifliop of this fee hss the right of confecrating the kings, and is a duke and peer of France, The province of Normandy is bounded on the north by the Britifh channel ; on the eaft by Picardy and the Ifle of f' ranee; on the fouth by Orleanois ; and on the weft by Britany, and another part of the Britifli channel ; being near two hundred miles in length from eaft to weft, and about a hundred in breadth. It is agreeably ^iverfified with hills and valleys, and is one of the moft fruitful provinces in France, except Y y y in I'l i;|i| 474 H E M in wine. It was anciently called Neuftris; or Weft France, till the tenth century, when the Normans and Danes made a conqueft of it under RoUo, their full duke. It became afterwards united to the crown of England in the perfon of William the Conqueror, in which condition it remained till the time of king John. 7'he chief toivn is Rouen, fituate in l degree lo minutes of eaft longitude, and in 49 degrees 26 minutes of north latitude, on the north fide of the river Seine, fcventy miles north-welt of Paris, and forty- five fouth- eafl of the BritiOl channel. The city is about feven miles in circumference, and computed to contain flxty thoiifand inhabiiants. One of the mod remarkable objciSls here is the bridge over the Seine, two hundred and fcventy paces in length, fupported by boa.S} whence it becomes higher or lower according to the tide. Rouen is the fee of an archbifliop, and the feat of a parliament ; having alfo a mint, a college, an academy, two abbeys, and a caflle. It is advan- tageoufly fituated for trade, and is the centre of com- merce in the northern parts of France. The other chi^f towns of this province are, Caudebeck, Evreux, Oouray, Lificux, Uajeux, Coutance, Avcranches, 8ero, Alcn^n, and Caen. The latter is fituated on the river Orne, feventy-five miles weft of Rouen, and feven miles fouth of the Britifli channel, with which it has a communication. It is a place of con- fiderable trade, and contains about forty thoufand in- habitants } being likewife the fee of a bifhop, and having an univerfity. Here William I. king of Eng- land, was buried, in the abbey of St. Stephen, which he had founded, Britany is encompafTcd on the north, wed, and fouth, by the Britifli channel and the Bayof Bifcay; and bounded on the call by the province of Orleanoiit. The chief towns arc, i. Rennes, the capital, fituate on the river Villai'>e, fifty- eight miles north of Nantz. 2. Nantz, feated on the river Loire, thirty miles eaft of the ocean, It is a large populous city, and has a very extenfive trade, though fhips of burden cannot reach it, but arc obliged to unload at Pambeuf, near the mouth of the river. Here was promulgated, by Henry IV. the famous eJitSl, thence called the edict of Nantz, which was afterwards revoked in 1685. 3. St. Malo, feated on a rock in the Englifh channel, furroundcd by the fea, but joined to the continent by a caufcway; lying thirty-eight miles north-weft of Rennes, and ten miles north of Dinant. The harbour is one of the beft on the coaft, but of difficult acccfs, and will not admit of large vcftels. The town, which is inditferently built, is inhabited chiefly by fea-faring men, and in the time of a war with Britain, fits out a great number of privateers, 4. Breft, fituate on Camcrct Br.;, in the Atlantic Ocean, a hundred and fifty miles north -weft of Nantc, and three hundred miles weft of Paris. This is one of the principal ports in France for the navy. 5. Port L'Orient, feated at the mouth of the river Blavct, on the north fide, fcventy-eight miles north weft of Nantz, It is guarded by a fortrefs, and obtained its name from being the nation of the French Eaft India fhips. 6. Port Louis, D E R N [Europe. I'eated on the fouth fide of the river Blavct, cppo.lte to Port L'Orient. It has a good harbour, and is 4 ftation for part of the royal navy, as well as for the fhips of the French Laft-India Company. The province of Orleanois is bounded on the north by Normandy and the Ifle of France, 011 the eaft by Champaign and Burgundy, on the fouth by Lionoii and Guicnne, and on the weft by Britany and the bay of Bifcay. The chief towns of this province are, I, Orleans, the capital, fituated on the river Loire, feventy miles fouth of Paris. This is a place of great trade, confidering that it is an inland town, having a communication with the fouth-i.eft parts of France, by the river Loire; and with the northern by the canal of Orleiinj. It is about four miles in circumference, a bifhop's fee, and the feat of an univerfity. The French language is fpoken here with the greateft purity. The inhabitants yet commemorate the famous heroine, Joan of Arc, who by her addrefs retrieved the French affairs after the conqueft of the kingdom by Henry V, of England. A ftatue of her, in complete armour, is placed on the great bridge. 2. filois, feated on the north fide of the Loire, thirty-two miles fouth- weft of Orleans. This is an elegant town, and here the kings have a palace. 3. Tours, fituated alfo on the Loire, fixt^ niles fouth-weft of Orleans, It is built with a fine white ftone, and laid out in fpacious ftreets, adorned wi>h public fountains. Here alio is a royal pahce, where the ftates of the nation afT-mbled in the reign of feveral of their prinres. The town it the fee of an archbifliop. 4. Angers, fitu;itc at the confluence of the Litrle Loire and the S^rtc, a hundred and fixty miles fouth weft of P. the Black Prince, fon of Edward III. king of England, obtained a complete viflory over the French in 1356, making prifoners John, king of France, and his fon I'hilip, whom the conqueror brought over to England. 6. Rochelle, fituate on the Bay cf Bifcay, feventy i!cs foutb-wcft of Poidliers. 7. Rochfort, feated near the mouth of the river Charante, twenty-three miles fouth of Rochelle, It is large town, built by Louis XIV. and is one of the ftations of the royal navy. Befides thofe, the other towns of greateft emi- nence are, Beaufort, Nivers, Nugent, Chartres, Lucen, Angoulefine, Bourgcs, and Montargis, The province of Lionois is bounded on the north by Orleannis and Burgundy, on the eaft by the river Rhone, on the fouth by Languedoc and Guienne, and on non fide of tow jacc J 76 hav( thci fron futv Rui a Itai LlONOlSj &c.] GliNERAL TRAVELLER. *?5 on the weft by aiioilicr pirt of (^rlciiiois. The chief town is Lyi'ii-, litiia(CLl at the confluence of the rivers Rhone an>l auaiic, in 4 dearies 55 Uiiniitcs of call longiiiid^S and in 45 degrees 50 minutes of north Ltiiudc. This is a t<>»n of great anti(|iiiiy, and was the fi^at of the Ronian governnicnC in Gaul. The ruins of fome of the Roman palaces are here yet vifible. It is one of the places of i^reatcft trade in the kingdom, and is computed to ''ontain a hundred and fifty ihou- fand inhabitanis. The oihcr towns of eminence arc, Beaujieu, Fcurs, Clermont, St. Flour, bourbon Archi- baut; "'id GuL-ret, Provence is h'linded on the north by Danphinc, on the ea(i by Piednu nt and the Mediterranean Sea, on the fouih by the fame fca, and on the wed by the river Rhonf, which fp irates it from Laiiguedoc. Towards th: iioitli and eafl it is mountainous, but in the other pans level, producing plenty of wine, oil, and fruit. In th s province are great manufactures of fillc, with thofe of guld and filver lace, and linen. The chief towiij are, 1, Aix, the capital of the province, iixteen miles north of Marfeillcs. 2. Jenez, lying forty-fix miles north-eaft of the preceding. 3. Aries, fituattd on the ea(l bank uf the Rhone, ttiirty-five miles north-weft of Marfeiiles. This place was made the feat of the Roman empire in Gaul, under Conftantine; and there are flill large remains of a Roman amphi- theatre and other antiquities. Several councils have here been held, particularly one, which condemned the opinion of the Donatifts, in the year 314. It is at prefent a large town, ; " the fee of an archbifliop. 4. Marfeiiles, (Ituate in 4 degrees 27 minutes of eaft longitude, and in 43 degrees 18 minutes of north lati- tude, on a fine bay in the Mediterianean, four hundred iind twenty-two miles fouth-eaft of Paris, This is a forlitied place, and has a capacious harbour, the Ilation of the French gallies, but which will not ad- mit of any large men of war. The town is faid to contain a hundred thoufand inhabitants. It has a goad nik manufadlure, and a great foreign trade, with warlike magazines, firppofed to be equal to any in Europe. It is alfo the fee of a bifhop, and the feat of an univerfity, or rather an academy. 5. Toulon, fituated on a bay of the Mediterranean, thirty miles fouih-cafl of Marfeiiles. This h.s the moil fecure and capacious harbour of any port 11 France, Here the largeft fhips in the navy are built and ftationed. Here are alfo fchools ft.r the marine guards, where they are taught navigation j wiih a foundery for can- non and mortars. 6. Avignon, fituate on the eaft fide of the river Rhone, thirty-feven miles north-weft of Aix, and twelve miles fouth of Orange, This town is the fee of an archbifhop, and, with the ad- jacent territory, was fubjeil to the pope ; but in J76S, the French took pofll-fnon of the city, and have obliged the inhabitants to fvvcar allegiarce to their king. Seven popes fuccefTively refidcd here, viz. from the yfar 1307 to 1377 ; but to prevent the future removal of the feat of the papal hierarchy from Rome, the Italians have ever fince taken care to have a majority of the cardinals of that nation, and an Italian is now always chufeo to fucceed to the papal chair. Here is the only court of inquifition within the dominions of France. Near this city lies Vauclufe, celebrated for the refidence of the poet Petrarch. Its fituation is extremely romantic, being a liiile valley, cnclofed in the form of a horfe-(hoe, by a barrier of rocks, which are bold, high, and grotefque. The valley is divided by a river, along the banks of which are extended meadows and paftures of a perpetual verdure. A path, which is on the left fide of the river, leads in gentle windings to the head of thil vaft amphitheatre, where, at the foot of an enormous rock, is a prodigious cavern, in which arifes the fpring, which has been immortalized by the Italian bard. The other principal towns of this divifion are, Reix, Digne, Frcjus, Grace, Vence, Glan- deve, Sifteron, Apt, Forcalquir, Carpentres, and Orange. The province of Langucdoc is bounded on the north by Lionois ; on the eaft by the Rhone, which feparate* it from Dauphine and Provence; on the fouth by the Mediterranean and Pyrenees } and on the weft by Gafcony and Guienne. The capital city is Touloufe, fituated in i degree 31 minutes of eaft longitude, and in 42 degrees 36 minutes of north latitude, on the river Garonne, three hundred and feventy-five miles S. by E, of Paris, This is a city of great antiquity, and in the time of th« Romans, was one of the moft flourifhing in Gaul. Here are yet the ruins of a Roman amphitheatre. It afterwards became the capital of the kingdom of the Vifigoths, and in later times, of that of Aquitain. It is at prefent one of the largeft cities in France, but neither rich nor populous, and computed to con- tain no more than nineteen thoufand families. It is the fee of an archbifhop ; and here are, a parlia- ment, a mint, .in univerfity, and an academy of Belies Lettres, Montpelier is fituate in 3 degree 58 minutes of eaft longitude, and in 43 degrees 57 minutes of north latitude, on the fmall river Lez, near the Bay of Maguelon and the Mediterranean Sea, a hundred and eighty miles S. by W. of Paris. The falubrity of the air at this place draws hither valetudinarians from every quarter. It is computed that the inhabitants are between two and three thoufand, among whom is a great number of phyficians and apothecaries. Here is alfo an univerfity, intended chiefly for the ftudy of phyficj with a royal academy of fciences, a mint, and a citadel. The churches and convents were here very numerous before the civil wars in the fixteenth century ; when they were all demolifhed, except three^ the principal of which is that of Notre Dame, remark- able for its high fteeple, altar, and chapel of the Virgin Mary. This is alfo the fee of a bifhop. The other towns of eminence are, Alby, Foix, Perpignan, Lauregais, Narbonne, Beziers, Nifmes, Mende, Viviers, and Puy. The province of Guienne is bounded on the north by Orleanois; on the eaft by Languedoc ; on the fouth by Gafcony, from which it is fcparatcd by the river Garonne; and on the weft by the Bay of Bifcay. The capital of this province is fiourdcaux, fituate in 39 minutes 'li ij6 THE M R N [EuROPEk minutes cad longitude, and in 44 degrees 50 minu es Rhine; on the Tuuth by Burgundy or French Comte( noi*!) latitude; on the river G.-ironne, three hundred and twenty-five miles fouth-weft of Parik, and eighty- feven miles fouih of Rochelle, This is one of the largeft and riciieft cities in France, containing about forty thoufand inhabitants. It has a great foreign trade, el'pecially in wine. 7'he town is fortified after the modern way, and, with the fee of a bifliop, has ■Ifo an univcrfity. Here are yet the remain* of an «mpi.lth<-atre, and other Roman antiquities; and here Edward the Black Prince having refided fome years, his fon, afterwards Richard II. king of England, was born. The other principal towns are, Batis, Agen, Rhodes, Sa'.ites, Pcriguex, Limoges, and Cahors. The province of Gafconv is bounded on the north by Guienne; on the eaft by Langucdoc; on the fouth by the Pyrenees, which fepirace it from Spain ; and on the weft by the Bay of Bifcay. The chief towns are, 1. Aux, or Augh, fituate in 20 minutes of ead longitude, and in 43 degrees 40 minutes north lati- tude, on the fide of a mountain, near the river Gers ; eighty miles fouth-eaft of Bourdeaux, thirty five miles weft of Touloufe, and three hundred and twenty fouth- weft of Paris. It is only a fmall town, but is the fee 01 an archbilhop, one of the rtcbeft in France. 2, Bayonne, fituate near the mouth of the river Adour, which forms a good harbour, eighty-five miles fouth of Bourdeaux. 3. Aire, fituate on the river Adour^ fifty-five miles fouth of Bourdeaux. The other moft confidcrable towns are, Albert, Condom, Verdun, Mirande, Lombes, St. Palais, Maulcons, Pais, Tarbe, and St. Lizier. The province of Dauphine is bounded on the north by ButgundV) on the eaft by Piedmont, on the fouth by Provence, and on the weft by Languedoc and Lionois. From this province the prefumptive heir of France derives the title of Dauphin. The chief towns are, i, Vienne, fituate on the Rhone, fifteen miles fouth of Lyons, and the fee of an archbifliop. 2. Va- lence, fcated at the confluence of the rivers Rhone »nd Ife.e, forty-eight miles fouth of Lyons : it is the fee of a bifliop, and has an univcrfity, with an abbey of Auguftine canons. 3. Grenoble, fituate on the river Ifere, forty-five miles fouth-eaft of Lyons. The ether ccnfiderable towns are, Gap, Embrun, Die, Buis, St. Paul, and Brian^on. The province of Burgundy is bounded on the north by Champaigne; on the raft by Switzerland'; on the fout^ by Dauphine, and part of Lionois ; and on the weft by Orleanois, The capital of this province is Dijon, fituate on the river Ouche, a hundred and forty miles fouth-eaft of Paris. It is defended by a citadel, and is the fee of a bifhop. Here alfo a parlia- metir aflembk^, and there is a mint, an univerfrty, tri I .ademy of fciences, and an abbey. The other chief towns ^rc, Autun, Chalons, Semur, Auxerre, Charollis, Macon, Chatillon, Dole, Befan^on, Ve- foul, Salino, Poligny, St. Claude, Bourg, Bellcy, Gax, Trevoux, and Montbelliard, The province of Lorrain is bounded on the north by the duchy of Luxemburg; on the caft by Alface, the duchy of Denxponts, and the palatinate of the I and on the weft by Champaigne. It is nearly of a circular form, and about a hundred miles in extent either way. This province anciently pertained to its own duke, wl..) was a fovcreign prince, but fince the death of king Staniflausj of Poland, in 1766, it has become entirely fubjcdt to France. The chief town is Nancy, fituate in 6 degrees 17 minutes c.ift longitude, and in 48 degrees 41 minuter of north latitude, a hundred and fifty miles eaft of Paris. Th' other places of note are, Minecourtj Vaudrc- vauge, Bar-le-duc, Michael, Pontamoufon, Cler- mont, Mete, Tuul, and Verdun. The province of Alface is bounded on the north by the palatinate of the Rhine; on the eaft by the river Rhine ; on the fouth by Switzerland, and on the weft by Lorrain. This was a province of Ger- many till the year 1681, when it was treacheroudy taken by the French, who have ever fince kept poflcf- fion of it. The capital of this territory Is Strafburg, fituate in 7 degrees 35 minutes eaft longitude, and in 48 decrees 38 minutes of north latitude, near the weft bank of the Rhine, fixty miles eaft of Nancy, It is a large city, elegantly built ; and the cathedral, which is efteemed one of the greeted ornaments of Germany, has a tower near five hundred foot high. The othtr towns are, Hagenau, Fort Lewis, Weif- fenburg. Landau, Colmar, Schleftar, Munfter, Mur- back, Foretie, Mulbaufen, Beiort, and Hunningcn, CHAP. II. '• Ofthtfiil-^roauct—manufaliurts—nallves-^charailer —tviif of lif'i^nobility— rotutiers — pin Hamints ^— taxts—miiitaryforct— 'marine— reL^ion—Uarning--^ hyiory, A LMOST the whole of France, except th« •^ •^ parts towards the north-weft, are exceeding fruitful, and even thofe, if properly cultivated, might be rendered far rrnr ; beneficial >'n the nation, than they have been for ii:,.ny years. Before the perfecution and civil wars broke forth in this kingdom, the in- habitants were computed at nineteen millions, but it is fuppofed, that at prefent they do not exceed three fourths of that number. With the diminution of the people, the riches of the ftate have alfo declined ; but of late, a more vigorous fpirit of agriculture and com- merce!, feems to have difFufed itfelf over the nation. The country produces corn, wins, oil, and flax, in great abundance ; and their manufaiSlures of linen, wodllen, filk, and lace, are very confidcrable. The country is particularly well fituated for trade, as it is wafhed by the ocean, the Britifh channel, and the Mediterranean Sea, and not only well watered by many navigable rivers, but interfered by numerous canals. The French are generally not of a large ftature, but for the moft part, of an acute undcrftanding, and remarkable vivacity. In the arts of politenefs it is admitted that they excel every nation in Europe ; but their affiduities feem to be prompted more by motive* of France.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 277 of vtnUjr than benevolent affedion, and amidft the warmed profefliona of attachment, they are frequently infincere. Their natural levity of temper difpofci them to frequent innovations in point of drefi ( and though in this they be extremely fantaftic, their moft capricious modes never fail of being immediately adopted by the neighbouring nations. Their tongue is like* wife become as univerfal as the influence of their tailc} and in every civilized country, it ia now confidered as the faOtionable language of the court. One of the chief qualifications of the French is that of temperance, both in eating and drinking. Their diet confifts moftly of foups and the lighter fort ot meats, which are alfo drefled in a manner peculiar to themfelves. At table, both fexes take their feats alternately, and their meals are long protrai!)ed. Neither wine nor fpirituous liquors are drank after dinner, as with us, but the tepaft concludes with a di(h of coffee. A difpofition to gallantry being a general charafleriftic of the nation, the inhabitants of the metropolis efpeci ■ ally are much addicted to all kinds of fufliionable enter- tainment. During the reprefentatiun of theatrical performances, it is the cuftom fur IpetSlators to (land ; and a tragic cataftrophe is always tranfadlcd behind the fcenes. As the French include all their gentry under the title of nobility or noblefle, this rank confifts of f ur claflTes, namely, the princes of the blood, the higher nobility, the ordinary nobility, and thofe who arc lately made. Few of the nobility here have a right to fit in parliament, though in other refpedls they enjoy the privileges of their rank. The ordinary nobility are divided into thofe who have been fuch for time immemorial, and have been created by patent. If their families have enjoyed that honour a handred years, it is fufficient to give them the privileges jf the noblefle, as they are called, and exempt them from 'the tallies, and fome other taxes. That degree of nobility which is obtained by being members of parliament, or of the fuperior courts, is but perfonal, and does not defcend to their pofterity, unlefs the grandfather and father have enjoyed fuch offices fucceflively, and exercifed them twenty years, or died poflefTed of them. The crown has alfo granted the privileges of nobility to 'He inagiftrates of fome cities. The rank of nobility is forfeited by excrcifing any mechanic art, or the farming of lands ; and until the time of Lewis XIV. the forfeiture extended to all who engaged in foreign commerce. But fuch for> feitures are only temporary, and the rar.k of nobility may be refumed, on renouncing any of thofe occupa- tions which are efteemed inconfiftent with it. With refpe£l to the other clafs of the people, or the roturiers, which comprehends all the tradefmen and yeomanry, they are liable to the land-tax, and many others, from which the nobility and gentry are exeriipied, aa well as to the quartering of foldiers. This order of the community lives in a (late of mifer- ablc fubje£tion to tbofe of fuperior rank. If • peafant. No. 23. or a tradefmnn, feei a gentleman upon the ro^d, hs gets out of his way as faft as poflible, making a thou* fand cringes as he pafles by, without paying which mark of rcfpeift, he runs the hazard of being drubbed. Til! within thefe two hundred years the kingdom of France was a limited monarchy, but ever fince that lime, it has been under an abfolute government ; though an appearance of liberty be ftiU preferved in the form of their ancient conftitution. There are yet in the country fifteen parliaments, via. thofe of Paris, Thoulaufc, Rouen, Grenoble, Bourdeaux, Dijon, Alx, Renncs or Vannes, Pau, defan^on, Metz, Douay, Perpignan 01 Kouflillon, Arras, with that of Alface, held at Colmar, and Strarfhurg. Thefe afTcmblies confift of a certain number of inferior judges and prefidents, who purchafe their places either of the crown, or of thofe who are in pofleflion of them. I'hey enjoy their polls for life, unlefs they be con-. vliSled of fome notorious malverfation in the exercife of their office. The parliament of Paris is muiTh the mod confidcrablc in the kingdom. Hither the king frequently comes In prrfon, and here his royal ediiSla are recorded and promulged, before ch:y can have the force of laws. But tu this a£l of ratification, the alTvmbly is frequently compelled by the crown, even without being permitted the privilege of delibe- rafing on the fubjedl. The pailiameot of Paris is alfo held in (he highcft efleem of all the afTcmbllcs in the nation ; being compofcd of the princes of the blood, dukes and peers of France, us well as the ordinary judges; and its authority extending over all offences committed by peers, where the court does not inter- pofe, and ilTue a fpecial commiflion for that end. This parliament had anciently under its jurirdidllon the duchies of Burgundy, Normandy, Guienne, and Britany, with thofe of Flanders and Thouloufe; but at prcfent its aiithority Is confined to the Ifie of France, la Beauce, Solognc, Berry, Auvergne, Lionois, le Forets and Beaugolois, Nivernois, Bourbonnois, An- jou, Anjumois, PIcardy, Champaigne, la Brice, Marne, Perche, Tourain, Poiflou, Aunis, and Rochelois. The princes of the blood have a feat and voice in this parliament at the age of fifteen, and the peers of France at twenty-five. The other parliaments of the kingdom have their refpe£live dillri£)s, and are divided ito chambers or houfes, among which the feveral branches of bufinefs are dillributcd ; but they are excluded from taking cognizance of any caufes which relate to the crown ; this privilege pertaining only to the parliament of Paris. In thofe provincial parliaments, the king's edi£ls are alf* reglflered, before they have the force of laws in their refpeflive diftri£ls; but with regard to this a£l of power, the members are at lead as much under the influence of the crown, as thofe of the parliament of Paris. France is a : prr.i'ent divided into thirty general governments, over every one of which is placed an officer, called an intcndant, appointed by the king, and who feema to be vefted with the power of con- trouling the governor, and all other officers of jufllce, Z z z By ijZ THE MODERN ; By thi Sillqut law tht ruccefllon to the crown of France ii limited to the heirs male; and though the royal power be now rendered abfolute, the private property of the fubjeAl it neverthelefs guarded by in- violable barriers againft (he enroachmcnts of the fove- itign. The taxes uAially levied in France are the taille, c)r land-tax, the tiiillori, the fubfiftence money, the iidts, and the gabelleg. From the iirft of thefe taxes the clergy and all the otders of nobility are exrmpted, with the burgtdet of Paris, and fome other cities. With rbfpefl to the proportion of this tax, when then king has determined what Turn he will raife, tn orderj is ilTued to every intendant, afcertainitig what part of it Ihall be levied in each of the thirty generalities or governments. The number of pariflies in thofe feveral ^illriAs are thirty eight ihoufiind five hundred and two, in Which are comprehended near orie million five hundred and ninety thoufand families liable to pay the taille. The taillon, which was introduced for the purpofe of augmenting the foldiers pay, is payable by the fame perfons as the preceding, and ufually amounts to about a third of that tax. The fubfiflence is a tax which was (irft levied by Lewis XIV. for the fupport of his army in their winter quarters, and is paid in the Tame manner as the taille. By aides are underftood all duties and cuftortis on ^oods and -nerchandize, except fait ; the duty levied on this article being diftingurthtd by the name of gabelles. Other taxes are the capitation, or poll-tax, and the iiftie:h penny, from the latter of Which neither the clergy nor nobility are exempted, though many re- prefentations have been madeto thecrownonthis fubjefl. One of thr, moft confiderable impofts is the tenths, or Free gifts of the clergy, who are for the moft part al- lowed to tax themfclves. Befldes thofe, a great revenue arifes from crown- lands and woods, fee-farms, for- feitures, fines. Sec. and from the d' laid upon all provifions brought to Paris. The .mual amount of the whole is computed at lifteea millions (\erling. But thofe are not the only refources of which the crown is pofTefTed. Ic is fuppofed, that fome years, the king malces as much by raifing the value of the coin, and other opprcflive ways and means. A militia i: eftablifhed in France, under the title of the ban, or arrear bsn, which enjoys many privileges on account of being always in readinefs to prevent a defcent from a foreign enemy. During peace, the army of the French king confifts frequently of two hundre ' thoufand men, but in time of war they are fometimes double that number ; among which are foreigners from almoft every nation in Europe. The marine force of France is far from being fo confiderable as in the time of Lewis XlV. It was computed, that in 1769, the whole navy amounted to no more than fixty-four fhips of the line (including thofe of fifty guns) twenty-five frigates, and fome fmaller vefTels. [EUKOI-E* In every port where the king hat « nragatine, thcrtt it an intendsnt of the marine, -the takes cognicnica of civil and criminal ciufes, and the revenues relating to the fea-fervice, and who has the charge of furnifhing; the magacines with ill kinds of fYorcs. The galleys mij be reckoned a confideraljle part ot the French marine. Of thefe there are thirty in th«r port of Mirfeilles, and ten more in other ports of the kingdom. The commander of thoft veflirli, wh» is flyled general of the galleys, and lieutenant-general of the Levant Seas, is independent of the admiral, and has under him a lieutenant-general, and five (Commanders of (i]u«drons. The principal galley )i called the Real, dn account of the royal flxitdird which it carries, and on this the general twifts hi> fla£} the fccond being called che Patron, and com- manded by the lieutenant-general. Both thefe vefTeli art larger than tile refl, and have three hundred Hxvei on board each, while the other galleys have but two hundred, BeGdes the crew, every galley has a com- pany of foot, confiding of fixty men, commanded by the officers of the galleys. There is alfo belonging to the galleys a company of young gentletii«n, called ths guards of the ftandard, who are infVru£led in navigation at the kir.g's charge; as are thoft of the guards m^irine, belonging to the royal navy. Belides thofe the galley^ are furnifhed with an intendant, infpeflor, comptrofter, commifTary, fecretary-general, and two treafurers- general. The efliblifhed religion of France is Roman Catho- lic, but they feem fo be lefs devoted to the pope than any other nation of ^hat communion, aifd have never yet admitted the inquifition among them. In the Whole kmgdom there are l^ventetn archbifhops, a hundred and thirteen bifhops, feven hundred and fVvertty abbeys for men, three hundred and feventeen abbeys and priories for WOmcn, befides a great number of inferior convents, and two hundred and fifty commandaries of the order of Malta, Many of the abbeys however have been lately fupprefTed, and their revenues feized by the king. The ecclefiaflics of various denominations are computed at near two hundred thoufand, and their revenues at about fix millions fterling. The nunlber of univerftties is aliu very confiderable, and the nation has long been diflinguifhed for producing geniufes Of the firft rank, in every department of polite learning. The Gauls, the ancient inhabitants of this country, appear to have been under the dominion of the Romans, during the fpace of near five hundred years. In the reign of the mperor Honorius, the Goths, after ravaging It,.'v extended their conqiiefts to Gaul ; of which they remained maAers, till they were fub« dued or expelled by the Franks, a nation of Germany, who gave to their new acquired territory the name of France, Which it has ever finc'e retained. According to the Moft probable accounts, this monarchy was founded by CIovis, a'bout the year 486. This prince dying in 511, left his dominions to his four fons. Childebert became king of Paris, Clodomir of Orleans, Clotair of Soifons, and Thiery the eldeft of Auftraria or Eaft France, lying between the rivers Rhine and Maefe ; gwiTiliiAND.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. •79 icre rncO ting ling irti, five is idird hi* Jdaefei th« latter alfo poflefling the terrltoriei of the Franks in Germany, which l«y eaft of the Rhine, Thofe feveral kingdoms, with the addition of Bur- gundy, were again united in the perfon of Dagtibert, who dying in 638, followed the example of Clovis, by dividing the kingdom between hit two fonst be- flowing on one the kingdom of Neuftria, with Bur- gundy, and on the other that of Auftraria. After being i third time united in the perfon of Childerick, in 663, the kingdom was once more divided between Charlemagne and Carloman, the two Tons of Pepin, who died in 768. The former of thofe princes af- fumiiig the government of the whole kingdom on the deceafe of his brother, tranfmitted it, at his death, to his fon Lewis in 814; who again p'rcclleJ out the regal dominions among hit children , in which he was imitated by his fon Lewis, In the year 884, the royal territories were re-united, uniffcr Charhii the Grofs, who, like his anceftor Charlemagne, vn» alfu empernr of Germany, and fovercign of Italy and pjtt ul Spain; but it was not till the rc-ign of Lo- ihaire, in 9J4, that the kingdom was fuccrlTively conveyed entire to the eldrK fon, without any partition of the provinces amongft the younger children. On the death of Lewis, the fon of Lothaire, the throne was ufurped by Hugh Capet, the Rrd of the Capetinc line of kings, from whom, the prefent royal family is dcfcendcd. For many ages after this period I'rance remained a limited monarchy, till the foundation of defpotifm Wn:; !iid by cardinal Richlieu, the minifter of Lewis XIII. who died in 16431 fince which timt the fre-rdum of the ancient conftitutiun has never been rellured. SWITZERLAND. i. u iloil i.'^,.iv| CHAP, I. ^« t>/ the jSlUUhn~^ftafi)ns-—i'tviri — proAui— ebntHts — thief towrti, SWITZERLAND, or Swiflirland, the ancient Helvetia, is furrounded by the territories of Trance, Germany, and Italy, being bounded on the north by the Suntgow, the Black Foreft, arrd other parts of Suabia ; on the eaft by the Lake of Conftance, 'Tirol, and Trent ; on the fouth by the duchies of Savoy, Milan, and the provinces of Italy; and on the weft by the French provinces of Burgundy and 'Dauphinej extending in length about two hundred and (ixty miles, and in breadth upwards of a hundred. The Alps and other high mountains that furround this country, and which are covered wPth fnow great part of the year, render the air much {harper than might be expelled between the latitudes of 45 and 48 degrees. It is obferved, that the feafons here are very different according to the local fltuation. If a field lits on the fouth fide of a mountain, the fnow melts early in the fp:ing, and their feed-time com- mences proportionably ; while on the north 'ide, the winter declines ftowly, and the operations of agricul- ture are long retarded. So great is the difTeren^'e arifing from thofe circumftances, that fometime.'. when it is feed-time on the north of the mountain, they are preparing for the harveft on the other fide. The fources of fome of the mod confiderable rivers in Europe are found in this country, viz. the Rnine, Rhone, the Inn, the Adda, the Aar, and the Rufs. The chief lakes are thofe of Conftance and Geneva, (he latter of which is fixty miles loi^g, and twelve broad j and the former thirty miles long and eight or ten broad. There is alfo one at the top of almoft every 6 mountain, in confequenceof which few inland countriea are fo well fiippiied with water. Nur is it Ids copi- oufly fiirniftied in refpeA of wood} both hills and valleys ufTording excellent timber, particularly oafc, elm, pine, and fir. The country produces fome wine, which however is neither of good quality, nor fufficient in quanticf for the confumption of the inhibitants, who fupply themfelves with this article from f' ranee ; at they do alfo from Germany both with wine and torn. The ftorms of hail and rain, which frequently happen here in autumn, fometimes deiVroy the vintage and harveft, as well as the other fruits of the earth ; on which account they ereA magazines of corn againft a time of fcarcity, Switzerland is divided into thirteen cantons or re- publics, viz. Bern, Friburg, Bafil, Lucern, Soloturn or Solure, Zurick, Appenzel, SchafFhaufen, Zug, Swifte, Glaris, Uri, and Underwald. As Switzerland is feparated from the circumjacent countries by mountains, fo almoft every canton ie divided from the other by a ridge of hills, which are covered with fnow in the winter, but in fummer afford good pafture intermix! with corn-fields, In fome parts, the corn may be feen growing on a pre- cipice where it is difficult to walkj but in others, the country is plain and open. Two thirds of the canton of Bern in particular, abound with corn-fields which lie pretty much upon a level. The cantons of Zurick, Solure, Friburg, Bafil, and SchafFhaufen alfo produce corn ; though they have for the nioft part a rocky foil, and it is with great pains that the inhabitants procure a plentiful crop. The country abounds in horles and neat-cattle, both which the natives exchange with their neighbours for the produce of the rcfpeiSkive territories. The hurfca i8« THE MODERN [Eur on. barrel are frequently purchtfcJ by the French to re- mount their cavalry. Here it alfo plenty of tame and wild fowl, with venifon, wild hogi, and goati of feveral kindi ) particularly the chamois goal, of the flcin of which is made the fine chamois leather, that it fo much efteemed. The rivers and lakes aflfbrd fuch plenty of fi(h that they fupply (he neighbouring countries with this article. Several mines have been difcovered of filver, copper, and iron, but they are not much wrought. Their quarries of black marble with white veins, and the cryRal on the tops of the mountains, and the fides of the rocks, are much admired. Of the latter there are two forts, one clear and 'ranfparent, and the other pale and cloudy. The canton of Bafil is bounded on the north and eaft by Germany, on the fouth by the canton of Soleure, and on the weft by part of Alfacej being about twenty miles long and eighteen broad. The chief towns are Bafil, Valtenburg, and Homburg, The city of Bafil is fituate in 7 degrees 36 minutes cad longitude, and in 47 degrees 40 minutes of north latitude, the river Rhine dividing it into two parts, which are united by a bridge. The town is fortified, being a frontier againft France and Germany, and is the capital of the canton in which it (lands. The art of making paper is faid to have been iirft praflifcd in this city. Here is a flourifhing univerfity, where Erafmus founded a college, and fpent the latter part of his life. The canton of Soleure, or Solothurn, ia bounded on the north by Bafil and Alface, on the eafl by the canton of Zuric, on the fouth by the canton of Bern, and on the weft by the bifhopric of Bafil i being thirty- five miles long from north to fouth, and twenty-five broad. The chief town is Soleure, fituated on the river Aar, fifteen miles north of Bern. The canton of SchafFhaufen is bounded on the north and weft by part of Germany and Bafil, on the eaft by the territory of Conftance, and on the fouth by Zuric ; being twenty miles long and twelve broad. The chief towns a.e, SchafFhaufen, Herblingcn, Newkilch, and Halaw. The city of SchafFhaufen is efteemed the (ineft town in Switzerland next to Bafil, and is fituated on the Rhine, twenty-five miles north of Zuric, and as many weft of Conftance. It is a town of good trade; all vefTels being obliged to unload here, on account of the cataraiEts in the Rhine, which are in its neigh- bourhood. The canton of Zuric is bounded on the north by the canton of SchafFhaufen ; on the eaft by Thurgaw, and the county of Tockenburg; on the fouth by Zug and Switz ; and on the weft by Lucern. The chief town is Zuric, pleafantly fituated at the north end of the lake of the fame name, in 8 degrees 4; minutes of eaft longitude, and in 47 degrees 28 minutes north latitude, thirty-fevcn miles fouth-weit of Conftance. It is a fmall fortified town, fuppofed to have been the capital of the Tigurini, one of the four Helvetian tribes. The inhabitants apply themfelves much to trade, the chief nianuf.i£lure being that of crape, which they export by the lake and the river Rhine. Tba other towns are, Kiburg, Gruningen, LafFcn, Rufty, Wadifchweil, Adelfinger, Grift'urce, Ktinge:iew, Eg- lifo, Regenn>urg, and StafFcn, The canton of Appentcl is bounded on the noilli by the territories of I'hurgow, on the eaft ly tha Rhintal, on the fouth by the country of the Grifunit and on the weft by the territory of I'ockenburg. It confifts of one large barren valley, twenty milo long, and almoft as bruad. The inhabitants are efteemed the moft unpoiifhcd of any in Switzerland, Ths chief village is named Appeiizel, there bein^ no town in the canton. The canton of Claris is bounded on the north b/ Zuric, on the eaft by the Grifuns, on the fuuth by Uri, and on the weft by the canton of Swlfle. It alfo confifts only of one valley, nearly of the famo extent with the preceding canton. The chief town ia Glaris, fituated thirty-five miles fouih eaft of Zuric. The canton of Switz, or Swiffe, is bounded on tho north by Zuric and Zug, on the eaft by Gl.iris, on the fouth by Uri, and on the weft by Undcrwald, from which it is feparated by the larke Lucern, It ia about twenty miles long and eighteen broad. The chief town bears the fame name as the canton, and it fituated on the eaft fide of the lake Lucern, fixteen miles eaft of the city of that name. The canton of Uri is bounded on the north bjf* SwifTe, on the eaft by Glaris and the county of the GrifoiM, on the fouth by the canton of Bern, and on the weft by Underwald; being about thirty mite* long anil twelve broad. The chief town is Altorf, fituated on the lake Lucern, near the mouth of the river Rufs, twenty miles fouth-eaft of the city of Lucern. The canton of Underwald U bounded on the north by Switz and Lucern, on the eaft by Uri, on the fouth by the mountains of Brunic, which feparate ie from the canton of Bern, and on the weft by another part of Lucern. It is about twenty-five miles long, and feventeen broad, a morntainous and barren coun- try, containing only eight poor villages. The canton of Zug is bounded on the north by Zuric, on the eaft and fouth by Switz, and on the weft by Lucein. It is about eighteen miles long and feven broad, producing corn and wine fufficient for the ufe of the inhabitants. The chief town is Zug, pleafantly fituated on a lake of the fame name. The canton of Lucern is bounded on the north by Soleure and Zuric, on the eaft by Zug, and on the fouth and weft by the canton of Bern. It is about fifty miles long, and thirty broad. The chief town Is alfo Lucern, fituated on the lake of the fame name, thirty miles fouth- weft of Zuric, and thirty-five milea eaft of Bern. It is an elegant fortified town, and ftanda in a plain almoft enconipan<'d with mountains. The canton of Bern is bounded on the north by Bafil and Soleure, on ihe eaft by Lucern and Under-, wald, on the fourh by the lake of Geneva, and on the weft by Neufchatel and Hur^undy. This is much the laigef> and muft frul ful of ?he SwilTe cantons, being a hundred and twenty iniles lung and flxty broad. Tiie ' * / J / ■ V^^/ff/l<^/'prr t^'iar/nr triht fh///t'// /// /.Al^^r 7//n/rr \ t< Switzerland.] GF, NR RAL TRAVELLER. a!) I Th« chief town ii nern, fituata in 7 ilrgrcri 15 niinutei eaft loni;iluilc, tiiil in ^■J Jri^icti norih lati- tude, on th« biinlc of the river Aar, flxiy-hve milei north-call ol Cicmivi. Ic cnnrilti of three fpacioui lliecti, chiefly built ul hewn Done, and many of the houfei having a piaaza in the front, Anothci of the mod cnnflderable towns in this canton in f.iufjnne, fituutcd on the north fide of the lake of (icneva, forty miles foulh-wrd uf Hern. He- fore the Reformation this place w.is the fee of a bifhop, and here is (till an univerflty. The other rhicf towns are, Thun, Arberg, Vangrn, I.anfburg, Kriach, Li Serre, Bruck, Nion, Sana, Aubon, llriento, Walen, and Yvcrden. The canton of Friburg is almod rurroumlcd by that of Bern, extending about twenty-fivc mitei in length, and twenty in breadth. The chief towns are Friburg, Eftavay, and Gricrs. The firfl of thofe, which is the capital, is fituated eighteen miles fouth-we(l of Bern. It ftands upon almoin inacceflibic rocks and precipices, to which, in fcvcral places, there is no other afccnt than by means of (lairs and ladderi. C H A P. II. 0/ iht [ivtrnminl tf tht Swilznt, and thiir rtligion. IN fome of the Swifs cantons the ;>nvernment is ariftocratical, and in others of dcmocritical nature. Thofe under the former drrcription ire the cantons of Ztiric, Rcrn, Lucern, Bafil, Friburg, So- leurr, and Schaft'haufcn ; in the capital cities of three of which, however, namely, /uric, Balil, and SchtlF- h.iufen, the magidracy is democratical. In each of them the ordinary tradefmen, who are divided Into tribes, have their (hare in the government, and may be elciHed into the fuvercign council ; whereas in the cities of the other four ariftocratical cantons, the lefs council, confllting of twenty-fcven members, joined to a fmaller number of the great council, have the fole right of filling up vacancies in the fovereign council \ and thofe always preferring their friends and relations, the common citizens have no thare in the adminiftration. In the canton of Bern, which is far the moft confiderable, the Icgidative authority is lodged in the great council, confifting, when complete, of two hundred and ninety-nine perfonsj but as about ninety odd arc ufually abfcnt on their refpe£live govern- ments, or other avocations, it is generally ftyled the council of two hundred. Out of the members of this council is cleAed another, called the fcnate, or lefs council, confifting of twenty-fcven members, with their two avoyers, who prefidc in both councils an- nually by turns. The two youngcft members of this aflembly, who have the title of fecret counfellors, refemble the Roman tribunes, and fummon the great council, upon every emergence, or when they appre- hend any defign to be formed prejudicial to the liberties of the people. This fenate pofltflcs the executive power, and meets every day except Sunday. The great council aflembles only twice a week, unlefs upon extraordinary occafions. This body is veiled with full No. 24. power in treat crtuncil, having no exiftcnr* during the continuance of that allirmbly. The vacan- cies in the great council are Ailed up by the fcnaiti and Hxtecn members of the former, called feicenierii from their number, who arc chofen out of the old bailifFi, that is, fuch as have enjoyed a government or bailliage for tht term uf fix years. I'he fix democratical cantons are thofe of Swits, Underwald, UrI, Zug, Claris, and Appenccl. Kach of thofe cantons is divided into dillridls accurdini; to their extent, fame four, fume fix, and others twelve 1 which appear to be in fume rel'pedts indeprndcnt fove- rcignties, having both civil and criminal jurifdiktiuii, in which the reft of the canton cannot interpufe, and whence there lies no appeal. In the management of public affairs, however, every dillri(^l having a deputy or rcprefentative, they afTrmblc at fume place appuinivd, and form a ftanding council of the canton. Wlicre the objedl of deliberation is of great importance, they fend each of them two or three reprcl'entalives. The authority of this council nevcrthclcfs is limited, the fupremc legiflatire power refiding in the diiV^ifivc body of the people, every male in the country, fcrvani as well as inaftcr, having an equal fhare in the fnvc- reignty, I'hofe aftitfflblies feldom meet more than once or twice a year to choofe their oiagiftrates, and the reprefentatives to the general diets, though they may be convoked at other times, as occafiun may occur, to give their confent to fuch a£)s as retjuire their ratification. The iirft officer in thofe cantons is called land-aman, and is chufen in a full aflvnibiy of the people, who always exprcfs their confent by holding up their hands. His office refembles that of an avoycr or burgher- mafter, but is changed in fume of thofe cantons every year, and in others every two years. He is prefident both of their ftanding council and general afl'emblics, and has the chief dire£lion of all public affairs with the advice of the council. When the land-aman is ele£led, the people choofe for him a deputy, who is called ftat>halter, and afls in the abfence of the former. They next choofe treafurcrs, fccrctaries, and other officers of ftate, who continue in their pofts a longer or (horter time, according to the cuftom of the rerpe<5livc canton. But though every member of the canton is equally entitled to a (hare in the , ivcrnment, the greater part are ufually influenced in their determinations by the gentry, to whom they pay a particular regard. On the other hand, if they imagine that they have been led by defigning men into meafures deftru^ive to tlieir country, they never fail to punifh the authors of fuch advice with the utmoft feverity. The general diet, or aflembly of the ffates, confifts of two repr- entatives fent from each cantun ; to which likewife the abbot of Jit. Gull, with the cities of S^. Gall and Bienne, fend their reprefentatives, as allien. 4 A "The : s82 H MODERN [Europe. W< : The diet ': for the moft part held annually at Bedcn, on the Feaft of St. John Baptid, the firft reiwcfentative of the canton of Zuric a£iing as prefideot of the aflembly; this canton having alfo the privilege of convoking the diet by circular Utters. The objeAs brought under the confideration of a general diet are, cither the accounts of the governors of their common bailliages, or appeals from the fen- tences of fuch governors in civil and criminal cafes, the redreffing the grievances of their common fubjefls, or compofing the diiFercnces which may have arifcn between any cantons, with whatever clfe may con- tribute to their general intereft. To this diet, the minifters of foreign princes uf'ially apply themfclves, either by way of audience or memorial. The French ambafl'ador in particular never fails tu gl." his attend- ance, though he had nothing more than cob.pliment to offer. Befides this diet, which meets regularly, any one canton may fummon a diet upon an extraordinary oc- cafion, as may the minifter of a for^^ipn prince, if he apprehends that the affairs of his m.i:ter require fuch a meafure, and he will defray ihc ;;harges of the deputies. In this way feldom a year palTes without one extraordinary diet, and fometimcs more. There are alfo particular diets for the confideration of religious matters, that of the Proteftants being held at Arraw, and the Roman Cathoticlcs at Lucern, which are lummoned occafionally. The inhabitants of Switzerland are diftingulfhed into Proteftants and Papifts, who are each of them exceeding zealous in their different perfuafions, and of whom the former are rigid Calvinifts, according to the doflrines contained in the Helvetic confenion. Both religions are tolerated in their common bailliages or governments, but there is no toleration in the can- tons thcmfelves, every pcrfon who profelFes not the cflablifhed religion being banifhed the country. Even i Lutherans and every other denomination of Proteftants ; are liable to the fame pains an I difabilities as Papifls, ' in the pro'eftant cantons. The Swifs clergy in fome of I the cities have great influenceeover the people, and fre- ] quently intermix politics with their religious difcour'r^ ; ! but in the canton of Bern they are not indulged in this i latitude, and the government keeps them in an entire | dependence on the ftate. The proteftant cantons arc ' thofe of Zuric, Bern, Bafil, SchafFhaufen, with two thirds of the canton of Glaris, and more than half of Appezel. The reft are Roman Catholics. CHAP. III. 0/ tht fuhjeSts of the Switzers, and their aUiei. TpHE [crritories fubje£> to the Switzers, are fuch ^ places as belong to them all, or to feveral of them in common, having been conquered by their united arms. The common bailliages are nine, viz. the county of Baden, the free villages, the counties of Turgovy, Sargantz,and Rhintal, with the four Italian bailliages of Lugano, Locarno, Mendrifo, and Val- Biadia; to which may be added the three cities without territorii-i, viz. Bremgarten, Meilingen, and Rappcrf- weil. The county of Baden is bounded on the north and weft by the Rhine, and on the e.iil and fouth by the canton of Zutic. It is as large as foiT4e of the little cantons, and of a much more fruitful foil. It formerly belonged to the houfe of Auftria, but was conquered by the Swifa confederates in the year 1415. Baden, the capital city, fo named from its baths, is fiiuateJ OR the river LimatH, about fourteen miles north-weft of Zuric, and fix to the fouthward of the Rhine. It is one of the moft ancient town* in Switzerland, and the place of their general diet; ufually called Upper Baden, to diftinguifh it from Lower Baden In Gcr- I many. I 7'hc four bailliages of Lugano, Locarno, Mcndrilio, and Valmadia, are fituate on the Italian fide of the Alps, Mid formerly compofed part of the duchy «f Milan ; but were difunited from it by duke Maximilian Sforza, and given to the Switzers in the year 151:;, for the fervice which they had rendered him in hig wars. They belong to twelve of the cantons, Ap- penzel having no fhare in them, as not being received into the alliance of the cantons at the time of tlits acquifition. Thefe four bailliages extend feveral leagues into the climate of Italy, but the country is mountainous. The chief townc are Lugano, 1 ucarno. Scons, and Brifago. Lugano is fituate in 9 degrees of eaft longitude, and 46 of north latitude, on the north fide of a lake of the fame name, about eight miles from the frontiers of Milan. The governor of this place has alfo the command of the other bailliages. Lucarno Hands on the weft fide of the lake Major, ten miles north-weft of Lugano, and was iourfe himfelf, is generally guilty of great exa£lions on the people. The dated revenue* of the Grifon Leagues are very inconfiderable ; and therefore, upon • war breaking out, or any other emergency, they tax thcmfclves in proportion to their abilities, and the neceifity of the fervice. The revenues confift chiefly of the duties on/ good* carried through the country. The Grifons may juftly be reckoned the refufe of Switzerland. What renders them moft confiderable is the pafies through their country, between Germany and Italy, by four of which only their territory is accefllble, and even thofe may be defended by a very fmall force. The firft is by the lake Como, which prefervcs their communication with Italy ; the fecond by the valley of Camonica, which gives them an entiance into the territories of Venice ; the third by the valley of the Inn, which affords them a pafTage into Tirol { and the fourth by a bridge over the Rhine near Coire, which opens a communication with Suabia and the cantons of Switzerland. The adjacent counties of Neufchattel and Vellengin . are alfo allies of the Switzer*. Thefe territories are bounded on the north by the bifhoprick of Bafil, on the eaft by the lake of Neufchattel, on the fouth by the canton of Bern, aad on the weft by the pro- vince of Burgundy in France, being about forty miles long and twenty broad. The ai( of this country near* the lake i* temperate, but in the mountainous parts very fliarp. The foil is ftrong^ btit produces the beft wine in Switzerland! by the fale of which 'he natives make confiderable profit. The chief town cf either of thofe counties bears the fame name refpe<£iively with its adjoining territory. Neufchattel is fituate in 6 degrees 35 minutes of eaft longitude, and in 47 degrees 10 minutes of nbrth latitude, at th: north-eafl end of the lake of Neuf» chattel, twenty milet north-weft of Lern. The town is well built, and adorned with feveral handfomc fountains. It is governed by a grand and little coun- cil; the former confifting of forty members, with two mafters of the keys i and the other of twenty-four, Ini- eluding the mayor, who is prefident. Thefe two councils alTemble every month, as do alfo the ecclefi' aftics, to fettle the affairs of the church. The inhabitants of thofe territories are in a manner a free independent people, notwithflanding they have had always a prince for their head. Nothing is de- termined without the concurrence of the three eftatcs. To which add, that they huve the privilege of choofing their own magiflratcs and ftandard-bearer, and are fubje£l to no taxes but what they impofe upon them^ felves. Among other privileges it is not the leaft confiderable, that they are free denizens of the canton of Bern, which is not only their protedlor, but th* umpire of all the differences between them and their fovereign. Upon the death of the duchefs of Nemours, the laft countefs of Neufchattel, as heirefs of the houfe of Longuevillc, the ftate* of the country were inclined to fubmit themfelve* to the late king of PrulTia, a* heir by his mother to the houfe of Orange, which derived its title to Neufchattel from the marriage of one of its prince* with the heirefs of the houfe of Chalons, the diie£i fovereign of thofe two counties. Several competitors arofe at the fume time, who claimed as belts in blood to the houfe of Lonjueville, The ftates bowtver determining the right in favouf of the heir* of the houfe of Chalons, the king of PruiTia accordingly took pofTeflioii of the territories. The whole country is of the reformed religion, except two Roman Catholic villages. The common language is French; and the natives, in their temperament as well as their manners and cuftoms, refemble more that nation than the Germans. Other allies of the Switzers are the abbot and city of St, Gall, lying between the canton of Zuric and th« lake of Conftance j as alfo of the county of Trehen- burg, contiguous to it ; extending about thirty-fix miles in length, and twelve in breadth. He alTumcs the title of a prince of the empire, but has nut the privilege either of vote or klRon in it. He was alfo formerly fovefeign of the city of St. Gall, and of good part of the canton of Appcni,el ; but both of them purchafed their liberty, and at prefent have no dependence on hi.a. The city of St, Gall is fituated in the Turgow, about five miles fouth-weft of the lake of Conflancr^ and ten nortb-weft of Appcnzel, forming at prefciit a little commonwealth, without any territory belong- ing to it. Tlie govcrameut is of an atinoeratical kiad. !i 't ■■ft 1! 284 kind, and conCfts of a great and litt'.e council, as in the other cities of Switzerland. Both the abbot and town of St. Gall have the privilege of fending deputies to the general diets of the Swifs cuntons, at which bowever they are entitled to no vote. The town is one of the moft commercial in the country, and par- ticularly remarkable for its linen manufacture, which affords employment to many of the inhabitants. It is computed that they make annually forty thoufand pieces of linen, of two hundred ells to the piece ; which they fend into Italy, Germany, and the ad- jacent countries, in packs carried by mules. By this traffick the natives are fo much enriched, that there it hardly any place of equal extent which affords a greater number of wealthy burghers, and fo few poor ' people. St. Gall is reckoned to contain about ten thoufand inhabitants. Neither the buildings of the town, the abbey, or the abbey- church, are very magnificent. The eftablifhed religion of the city is Proccftant, which occafions cuntinu.il differences be- tween the inhabitants and the adjoining abbey. Another ally of the Switzcrs is the republic of Valais, which takes its name from a valley inhabited by the fubjeds of this commonwealth, and extends from the lake of Geneva to the mountain called la Fourche, where the Rhone has its fource. It is divided into two parts by this river, which runs through the middle of it, and frr jently overflows great part of the valley. This country is bounded by Switzerland on the north and call, by the MilKnefe and duchy of Aouft on the fouth, and on the well by Savoy; being near a hundred miles in length, and from ten to twenty in breadth, encompaffed on every fide with high mountains, of which thofe that feparate it from the canton of Bern and ^avoy, are of a pro- digious height, and always covered with fnow. The country is ufually didinguifhed into the Upper and Lower Valais; the former being fubdivided into feven independent communities, :efembling thofe of the Grifons, and the latter into fix. The mountains afford paflure for numerous herds of cattle in the fummer, and the valley producer corn and wine, with a great variety of delicious fruits. This fertility however is in great meafure owing to the induflry of the inhabitants, who with incredible labour convey the water from the rocks and mountains by wooden troughs or channels, for two miles together in fomc places. In one day's journey here we experience a grea'. v.iriety of feafons. Winter and fummer prevail refpeiSliveiy on different fides of the fame mountain, while the fpring appears in a third place with its intermediate temperature and beauty. The harveft, in difterent parts, continues from May to Odlober, being fooner or later according to the fitu^'.ion of the fpot. The inhabitants of this counriy were anciently allied to the canton of Bern, but they are now much more clofely conneflcd with the popifh cantons, being themfelves of that pcrfuafion. The chief towns are, Syon, the capital, Martinach, and St. Maurice. Syon, the Sedunum of the ancients, is fituate in •J degrees 10 minutes of eafl longitude, and in 46 degrees 10 minutes north latitude, cpon the the river I THE MODERN [EuRopt.' Sitte, near its confluence with the Rhone, about fifty miles to the fouthward of Bern, and fixty eafi- ward of Geneva. It is the feat of the bifhop, who is a prince of the empire, and was formerly fovereigti of great part of the country; but his power is of late much diminiflied, and the government changed into a republic ; though the prelate ftill prefides in their councils, and has a confiderable influence on their affairs. The feven communities of the Upper Valais (to which the Lower is fubjedl) fmd deputies to their diets, in the fame manner as the Grifons, betwccit whofe government and the conltitution of this com- monwealth, there is hi'rdly any difference. The next ally of the Switzers is the city of Geneva, fituate in 6 degrees 15 minutes eaft longitude, and in 46 degrees 13 minutes north latitude, on the river Rhone, at the wcfl: end of the lake Leman, or Ge- neva, feventy miles fouth-wcfl of Bern. ' The town is furrounded by a wait and other fortifications, about two miles in circumference; but it is not very ftrongj confidering its proximity to fo formidable neighbours as thofe of France and Sardinia, againfl which its chief defence reils upon its allies, the cantons of Bera and Zuric. The river Rhone '. -i^/s it into two parts, the moPc fojtherly of wbi ■■■ is the larjer, and ftands upon a hill ; but tJie i.ther, called Gervais, and which belongs to the country of Gex ir France, is fituated on a flat. A communication futfiAs b^^rwtcn thofe parts by means of three wooden bridges. The houfes lately built are generally of hewn Aone; and among the public edifices the mofl remarkable are, the church of St. Peter, formerly the cathedral, the town-houfe, and the library. But that for which the place is chiefly diflinguifhed is its beautiful fituation, with the fi e walks and profpe£ls that furround it. The adjoin'ing lake is fixty miles long, and twelve broad, and affords great plenty of the bed fifh The numbtr of inhabitants is computed to amount to thirty thoufand, who maintain a brifk foreign trade; their manufaiflures being chiefly gold and filver lace, filks, and chamoy leather. Here is an uriiverlitv, but no lalaries fettled on the profcfTors or fellows, whofe fubliflcnce depends upon the contributions of their pupils. The language of the common people la the Savoyard, or a very b«d dialcit of the French tongue ; but perfons of condition fpeak in gteater purity. This city is the great refort of Calvinifls from France and other nations, for education j It having been the place of Calvin's rifidence, and ever fince in the pnlTcflion of people of that fefl. It was anci- ently under the dominion of the Romans, and after- wards of the Burgundians. It was once alfo an im- perial city, and the dukes of Savoy have had the fovercignty of it. The counts and bifhcps of Geneva fcem for fome time to have divided the jurifdiciion of it between them ; but at the Reformation, the bifhop was their fcvereign both in temporal and fpiriiuai matters. In the year 1533, the hierarchy was abo. ilfhed, and the people fubflituted a republican govern- ment in its room, The legiflative authority was vefted in a council of two hundred, and a fenate of twenty- Switzerland.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 2S5 twenty-five members ) none but the principal citizens being permitted to have any (hare, either in the admi- niftr.ntion of the government or the eIe£tion of the magidratcs ; but of late the common people have com- pelled their fuperiors to relinquifti this monopoly of powc. The chvi rch is prcfbyterian, governed by the city clergy, the burgher-madcr of reformation, and flx others elefled out of the great council. The clergy have neither glebe nur tythes, but are allowed fifty pounds a year each, by the dates, I'he ufe of cards, drinking in public houfes, and dancing, are ftri£ily prohibited; but in the manner of keeping the f^bbath they are not equally rigid, not only exercifing their militia on that day, but playing at bowls, and other manly diverfions, after divine fervice. The inhabitants of the lower rank are extremely clownilh, fpending their time chiefly among their cattle. They drive them up the mountain! about the middle of May, living in huts, and managing the bufmcfs of the dairy till the winter, when they return to town. The ground about Geneva is not unfruitful, confift- ing of gardens, vineyards, meadows, and rich paftures on the neighbouring hills } but their territories are very fmall. On three fides, refpeAively, they are hemmed in by the lake, and the dominions of France and Savoy ; and on the fourth, their lands hardly extend four miles. This republic was anciently allied to the Catholic as well as Proteftant cantons, but fince the Reformation, their alliance is only with the latter. About live miles from Nion are feen the ruins of Caefar's wall, which extended eighteen miles in length from mount Jura to the banks of the lake of Geneva, as defcribed by Caefar in the firft book of his Com- mentaries. CHAP. IV. . Of the rtvenuts ^forces •— hifierf, THE revenues of Switzerland are fmall, compared with thofc of other countries ; yet, confidered in regard to the expences of the flate, they feem to be fuffieient for the ordinary demands of the public fer- vice. The little popular cantons have hardly any fixed revenues, bu.t tax themfelves voluntarily, accord- ing to the exigence of their affairs. In general, the revenues of the protedanf cantons exceed thofe of the catholic, the church-lands, which the former feized at the Rcfurmatiun, being appropriated to the ufe of the government, except a fmall part referved for the maintenance of the clergy. The two wealthieft cantons are thofe of Zuric and Bern. Zuric, by the advantage of its trade, is riclier in proportion to the extent of its territories; but Bern is fo much larger, that the re- venues of this canton are far fuperior to thofe of the preceding. Since the firft inflitution of thofe republics, the ptoiilc have been averfc to (landing forces, but in no No. 24. Country of Europe do we meet with a better regulated militia. Every male from fixteen to fixty is cnrolicd, and about one third of them regimented under the title of fuziliers and cicftionaries ; and out of the other two thirds thofe are from time to time recruited. The fuzileers are all unmarried men, of a good fize, and in the flower of their age, always ready to march at an hour's warning. The eleflionaries, on the ochcr hand, are married, but of an age and fize fit for fer- vice. Every regiment of fuzileers confifts of ten com- panies, and the eleflionaries of twelve, exclufive of (taff officers. In each company of the fuzileers there are a hundred and ten men, and in thofe of the eleflio- naries two hundred and eighteen, including the officers of every rank. Every foldier provides his own arms, but all are of one make. Of late they have iilfo in- troduced an uniformity of cloathing, the colour of which is grey, with diflferent facings, to diftinguifh the regiments. Finding that horfe are of little fervice in this mountainous country, they have converted their cavalry into dragoons, except in the canton of Bern, where there is one regiment of cuiraffiers, n I Vi ceiUin dayi of the year they meet U> ihoot at a mark, the cannoneers likewife doing the fame with their great guns and mortars. For the readier aflembly of their militia, there are, in the mod confpicuous places of every bailliage, fignals, which confift of wood and draw, to which they fet fire upon any alarm. At every one of thofe fignals a corporal is ftationed, with a guard of fix men. What number of forces the Swifs can raife, it is difficult to determine; but in the late war between the protellant and popilh cantons, the canton of Bern had forty thoufand men in the field, and that of Zuric twenty thoufand. The Helvetians remained fubje£l to the Romans till the dellrudion of that empire, when new kingdoms and ftates being formed out of its ruins, Switzerland was comprehended in that of Burgundy, and upon the extinflion of this kingdom, which happened about a hundred years after, was united to the crown of France, to which it continued to be annexed till the beginning of the ninth century. About the year 870, two new kingdoms of Burgundy were eredled, called Burgundia Cisjurana and Burgundia Transjuranaj but the former was united to the latter about the year 926, and of this kingdom of Bargundia Transjurana Switzerland continued a part, till 1032, when Radolph, the third and lad king of Burgundy, dying without ilTue, transferred the kingdom to the emperor Con- rad II. called the Salick, whofe fucceflbrs enjoyed it almoft two hundred years, when the territory being negleAed by the emperors, feveral petty fovereignties were formed out of it. In the thirteenth century the counts of Hapfburg, anceftors of the houfe of Auftria, to whom feveral fiefs in this country had been granted by the emperor fiarbarofTa, began to take upon them the government of the people, particularly the cities, on their immediate requefl. The inhabitants were induced to this meafure with the view of (haking off the yoke of the nobility, by whom they were intolerably opprefTed. They agreed therefore that Rodolph, the count of Hapfburg, fhould fend governors amongft them, with power of adminiflering judgment in cririi- nal caufes, but with an exprefs refervation of their lights and liberties. The count however being fo much engaged in other places, could not afford the cities the protection they expedied ; upon which the latter, unable to endure any longer the oppreflion of the nobility, had recourfe to arms, demolifhed the caftles of the lords, and after a war which lafled twelve years, compelled many of them to abandon the country. Rodolph being now advanced to the impeiial dignity, was folicited by the exiled nobles to afford them pro- te£iion againft the commons of Switzerland, whom they charged with rebellion; but the latter having heard the contending parties, declared himfelf in favour of the people, to whom he not only confirmed their ancient privileges, but alfo added others which they had not hitherto enjoyed. Upon the death of this emperor, however, his fon, the emperor Albert, adopted very oppofite mcafures. Deftrous of render- ing himfelf mailer of Switzerland, he lirll attempted 4 [EOROPB. to accompliih his purpofe by the arts of perfuafiun, but finding thefe means inefFedlual, he at length had recourfe to violent meafurcs. He appointed over the people new governors, to whom he gave pofitive orders to reduce them to obedience, either by rurrupt- ing their leading men, or, if that (hould fail, by force of arms. The former alternative proving unl'uccefsful, thofe delegates openly invaded the privileges of the flates. To complain of fach proceeding the people refolved on fending a deputation to the emperor, who inflead of redrefSng their gtisvances, threatened them with mote fanguinary mcafures, if they ihould refute an abfolute fubmifljon to his pleafute. Exafperaied by repeated afls of the mod intolerable oppreflion, from which the application to their fovereign had afforded no profpe£t of relief, the people entered into the defign of bravely afferting their ancient rights in oppofition to every illegal power. The three principal men who formed this rcfolution werey Arnold Molch- dal of Underwald, Werner Stouffacher of Switz, and Walter Furft of Uri, who were rather fubllantial yeomen than gentlemen, Thefe three were foon joined by nine of their friends, the whole party binding themfelves by the moft folemn oaths not to difcover the deflgn. The firfl of January 1308 being the day appointed for the infurrediion, an accident happened, that had like to have precipitated the meafures of the confpirators, by the frefh provocation to revolt, which it univerfally diffufed among the people. Amidft other infolent ails of whimfical tyranny, Grieflcr, governor of the canton of Uri, had ordered his cap to be fet upon a pofl in the market-place of Aliorf, the capital of the canton ; requiring every perfon who paffed by to pull off his hat to it on pain of death. Many, terrified at the rigid charadier of the deputy, fub- mitted to this ridiculous ceremonial, till William 7'ell, a man of determined courage, and one of the con- fpirators, took an opportunity of frequently pafling by without teflifying any mark of refpe£i. Being obfervcd by the guards that were placed to fee the order put in execution, be was arretted and brought before the governor, who, by way of punifhment, commanded him to fet an apple on his fon's head, and fhoot at it with an arroWg declaring, that if he miffed, he fhould be hanged. The father, rather than run the hazard of being acceffary to his fon's death, defired that they would take away his own life without farther ceremony ; but the inflexible Griefler declaring, that if be refufed to (hoot at the apple immediately, he would hang jp his fon before his face, and himfelf afterwards, the unfortunate delinquent agreed tu make the attempt. The ftene which he fixed for the ex- periment was the market-place, in prefence of the deputy; imagining, it is probable, that his fcllow- confpirators would affcmble and refcue him from the hands of fo arbitrary and capricious an opprcflbr. No marks of any tumult appearing, at his arrival on the fpot, he took out of his quiver two arrows, and applying one of them to the bow, which he drew with a (leadinefs hardly ever before discovered in fo violent an agitation of mind, he providentially ftruck the apple off his fon's head, without giving him the leall wound. ItALV.] feENERAL TRAVELLfeR; Of wound. The joy of the fpeftatora at this unexpefied good fortune was teftified by a general fliout, to the great mortification of the governor, who proceeding to enquire of Tell what he meant by talcing two ar- rows out of his quiver, the Utter boldly anfwered, that the fecond arrow was defigncd for the tyrant, in cafe he had been fo unfortunate as to have killed his fon. I'hc implacable Griefler ordered him to be put in irons, and carried on board a veflel to be tranfported to the calHe of Caflcnach, on the lake Lucern, where he via defined to perpetual tmprifonment ; the governor alfo going on board himfelf to fee the fentence carried into execution. On reaching the middle of the lake, a violent dorm arifing fuddenly, the veflel was ready to fink i when the governor's fervant knowing the prifoner to be an excellent pilot, propofed the taking ofF his chains, and letting him manage the helm, as the only means of faving their lives. This expedient being approved, Tell with great difficulty fteered the boat into fmooth water under theftiore; when jump- ing out upon a rock he made his efcape, and Griefler uefpairing of ever taking him, failed on to the next town, called Brunen, whence he prupofed to oo by iand to the caftle of Caflenach. Tell receiving in- telligence of his route, concealed himfelf in a wood on the fide of the way, and /hot him through the heart }vith an arrow. In memory of thofe incidents, a chapel was built upon the fpot where the governor loll his life, and another on the rock whence Tell made his efcape, which are yet to be feen. On new-year's-day 1308, the time fixed by the confpirators for a general infurredlion, fome of the moft refolute of them reforted to the caflle where the governor and commanders of the imperial troops re- fided, under pretence of carrying the ufual prefents. Having concealed arms beneath their cloaths, they fell upon the guards as they entered the gates ; and in this manner reduced every forfefs in the country which they attempted. The governor of Landenburg and his troops were in fo great confternation, that they fled without making any refiftance ; but were afterwards made prifoners by the country people, who only requiring of them an oath that they never would return, granted them the liberty to retire wherever they pleafed. The people commemorate thefe events by an annual feflival, at which the company Is enter« tained with fongs containing the hiftory of their deli- verance from Auftrian tyranny. The emperor Albert receiving advice of this defec- tion, was about aflembling an army to reduce the people to obedience ; but being killed foon after, as he pafled the river Rufs, the cantons had a favourable opportunity of ellablifhing their new government, while the empire remained in confufion. About feven years after, archduke Leopold, the fon of Albert, marched into the canton of Swite, with twenty thou- fand men, threatening utter deftru£lion to the con- federated provinces. The inhabitants made little re- fiftance till the Auftrians were advanced to a narrow valley, between two mountains, near Mortgarten, where rolling large flones from the tops of the hills, they thre'.v the enemy's cavalry into confufion. At the fame time attacking them in front with fifteea hundred men, they obtained a complete vifiory, whicM they purfued with fo much diligence, that they drove the invaders entirely out of the country. Upon this defeat of the Auftrians, the three cantons of Under- wald, Switz, and Uri, entered into a perpetual league, which had at firft been made for ten years only, and took an oath for the due obfervance of it ; whence they were called Eydgnoflen, a German word fignifying parties to the fame oath. The battle being fought in the. canton of Switz, the name of this little province was communicated to the reft, which entered into the confederacy, and even to their allies. The hoyfe of Auftria made feveral attempts afterwards to reduce the cantons of Switz, Underwald, and Uri, to fubjefiion, but were fo far from fucceeding in this defign, that they loft feveral more of their provinces, which from time to time acceded to the aiTociation. In all the attempts of the houfe of Auftria for the recovery of thofe provinces, its forces were ufually aflifted by the Swifs nobility, till the latter being at length either expelled the country, or reduced to acknowledge the fovereignty of the cantons, the Switzers were declared a free people, independent of the empire and the houfe of Auftria, by the treaty of Munfter, in the year 1648, at the fame time that the United Provinces were de- clared independent of Spain. ' Y. ;> ■■l-MOi »»j»ia *^t«sl 11 ■ K IS ■ '■;>• 1 !• 1 .( •f- 1 ''"jt n .fMH'. 'Kf -^l CHAP. I, 0/ thi fituation— •mountains —feas — - r'tvirs — air — produce. TTALY is fituate between 7 and 19 degrees of •■■ call longitude, and between 38 and 47 degrees of north latitude. It is bounded on the north by Swit- zerland and the Alps, which fcparate it from Ger- many; on the eaft by another part of Gemuny and the Gulph of Venice; on the fouth by the Mediter- ranean } and on the weft by the fame fea and the Alps, which divide it from France. But if we include Savoy, which lies on the weft fide of thofe mountains, the boundaries of Italy in this quarter muft be ex- tended to one degree more, The fliape of this country is faid to refembic a boot, and, according to the limits here fpccified, its length, from the north-weft to 1^9 THE MODERN [Europe. to the fovt}l«eaft, U upwwdt of fix hundred milei. Ita brtadtb ii varioue in different parti: in cbc north it ia four hundred milci} in the injddlo aH^ut a hundred and twenty) a;pd toward* the fouth eighty miles. In ancient tiniea, the boundariei of Italy on the weft extended no farther than a line drawn from the river Arnuii which runs into the Tufcan Sea, to the JECubicont Mrh>C|h difcbarges itfelf into the Adriatic i the whple of that part lying between this line and the Alpi being deooreinated Gallia Cifalpina. The nioft fuuthera part of the country wai alfo con- fidcrcd a) diftind from Italia Propria, and bore the name of Magn^ Qnecia} but Auguftus Ctefar, abo- liiliing the names of Gallia and Magna Griecia, gave the common name of Italia to the whole country comprehended within ti>e limit* which we have afcribed 10 Modern Italy. In the north part of Italy lie the Alpa, the higheft mountains in £ur<^pe. They begin at the Mediterra- nean, and firetching northward, fcparate Piedmont and Savoy from the adjac;ent countries { whence direA- ing their courfe to the eaft, they form the boundary |>etween Switzerland and Italy, and terminate near the extremity of the Adriatic Sea, north-eaft of Venice. Over the weftern part of tbofe mountains, towards Piedmont) Hannibal forced his paflage into Italy ; which he is faid to have efFe£ied by pouring vinegar UD the rocks, that bad been previoufly heated by fires made with great piles of wood. The profpeA, from many parta^ this enormous range of mountains is extremely romantic, efpecially towards the north-weft. One of the moft celebrated is the Grande Chartreufe, where it a monaftery founded by St. Bruno, about the year 1084. From EjCbelles, a little village in the mountains of Savoy, to the top of the Chartreufe, the diftance is Cx miles. Along this courfe, the road runs winding up, for the moft part not fix foot broad. On «ne band is the rock, with woods of pine-trees banging over head ; on the other a prodigious precipice, almoft perpendicular, at the bottom of which rolls a torrent, that fometimes utnbling among the fragments of ftone wl^ich have fallen from on high, and fometimes pre- cipitating itfelf down yaft defcents with a noife like thunder, rendered yet more tremendous by the echo from the mountains on each fide, concurs to form one nf the moft folemn, the moft romantic, and moft aftoniftting fcenes in. nature. To this defcription may be added the ftrange views made by the craggs and cHfFs, and the numerous cafcades which throw them- selves from the very fummit down into the vale. On the top of the mountain is the convent of St. Bruno, which is the fuperior of the whole order. The in- habitants confift of a hundred fathers, with three hundred fervants, who grind their corn, prefs their wine, and perform every domeftic office, even to the making of their deaths. In the Album of the fathers Is admired an Alcaic ode, written by the late ingenious Mr. Gray, when he vifited the Chartreufe, and which h^s Hnre been publiflicd among his works. Tiic Glaciers of Savoy are alfo juftly reckoned jmong the moft ftupendous works of nature. Thefe are immcnfe mafles of ice, lodged upon the gentler declivities amidft the Alps, and exhibiting rrprefenta- tions beyrind conception fantaftic and piflurefque. In the extraordinary narrative of Mr. liourrit's journey hither v: meet wiih the fuliowing account of th« Prieiire, in the valley of Chamouni. We had, faya he, the magnificent itrofptct of a cliain of mountains, equally inasceflibic, and covered with icci and above the reft that of Mount Blanc, whufe top fcemed to reach, and even pierce the higheft region of the clouds. The chain upon which thi;; mountain looks down like a giant, is compofed of maftes of rocks, which tcrmi'f nate in pikes, «r fpises, called the Needles, and which are ranged like tents in a camp. Their fides appear lighter, and more airy, from the ornament of fevera) hollow breaks and furrows fretted in the rock itfeif, as well as from the different ftreaks and panes of ire and fnow, which without changing the general cha> radler of their form, or the majefty of their appearance* give them a pidiurefque variety. Lower down, the eye furveys with ravifliment the gills of ice, and the feveral glaciers, extending almoft into the plain, whilft this appears like an artificial garden, cmbellifhed with the mixture of a variety of colours. Wc have a piiTiu- refque oppofition to this chain, which is formed by in- numerable mountains at the diftance of near fifty leagues, between whofe tops we have a glimpfe of thofe feveral plains which they environ. M. De Saufture, who had vifited thofe mountains about two months before M. Bourrit, felt himfelf naturally electrified in this place. This extraordinary phenomenon feems not to have been experienced bjr the latter or his con'pany; but they heard a long continued rumbling noife, like that of thunder, which was rendered more awful by the filence of the place where they ftood. This noife proceeded from the fubfequent caufes, viz. the avalamhci of fnow, which feparated from the tops of the mountains, and rolled down to the bottom ; confiderable fragments of the rock* which followed them, overturning others in their fall } and malTy blocks of ice, which precipitated from the fummits. The valley of Montanvert appears to be peculiarly romantic. Here, fays M. Bourrit, we beheld a fpacious icy plain entirely level. Upon this there rofe a moun« tain all of ice, with fteps afcending to the top, which feemed the throne of fome divinity. It likewife took the form of a grand cafcade, whofc figure was beyond conception beautiful, .nnd the fun, which (hone upon it, gave a fparkling brilliance to the whole. The valley on our right hand was ornamented with pro«. digious glaciers, that (hooting up to an immeafurable height between the mountains, blend their colourt with the Ikies, which they appear to reach, Amidft thofe fequeftered regions is found the cha- mois, which feems to hold a middle place between the goat and the deer, and to exceed in ftrcngth and agility almoft any other animal of its fize. It is aftonifliing to fee with what fwiftnefs they bound along the fteepeft flopes upon the edge of precipices, to elude puri'uit. The hunters carry with them a pocket telefcope, and having gained in eminence, run over the moft elevated paftures with their glafs to f ' dif. Italy.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. iH>) difcover the game. This they endeavour to take by furprize ; but the lead noifc is fufficient (o give the animal an alarm. The flcill of the hunter is flicwn in driving it upon fuch narrow ledges, ns lay the creature under the necelFity cither cit leaping down a precipice, or of prefenting itfelf trembling before him. In this fitvation, it fomecimes turns fliort on a fuddcn, and endeavours to dart pali him; in which cafe the hunter is in no little danger of being precipitated down the (teep, if he has not time to flip ifide, or cling clofe to tlie rock. The gun ufed by the chamois-hunters is of a peculiar conftru£iion, confiding of a fingle-rifled barrel with two locks, one before the other. It receives two char!;es of powder and ball at the fame time; the bullet of the firO- charge being either fcrewcd down, or rammed fo tight, as to fcrve for a breech- pin to the fecond charge, and prevent the communication of the fire to it, upon pulling down the cock nearcft the muzzle. The difficulty of purfiiing thofe animals over the heights of the mountains, rcndc it necclTaiy to have the piece as light as poflible, confiflent v.iih the advantage of a double charge. The Appenine mountains are a ridge running through the middle of Italy, from north-well to fouth.eaft, in the form of a crefcent. This mountain is greatly (hort of the height of the Alps, but occafions a confiderable difFcrence in the climate on its oppofitc fides. The fea which waflies the coad of Italy is the Mediterranean, that part of it lying on the eaft being ufually ftyled the Adriatic, or Gulf of Venice. It is remarkable of the tides in this branch of the fea, that they now flow to places confiderably above what they had reached in former times; as is evident by a com- parifon of the mean heights, from the year 1751 to 1755, and from the year 1760 to 1769. The mean height in the former period is found to have been 23* inches, and in the latter a5|. This increafe of the modern tides has fuch an effe£t on the city of Venice, that the inhabitants are obliged to raife the ftreets to keep them dry, and alfo the large cifterns for the reception of rain water, to preferve them from any mixture of the encroaching fea waters. The heights of the tides at Venice ara the greateft that are oDfcrved in all the Adriatic ; the waters being pufhed againft, and accumulated in the bottom of the gulph about the Venetian coali; for towards the Mediter- ranean the tides gradually abate, fo as to be hardly perceptible, except in the narrow creeks and gulfs. It is alfo obfervcd with refpcdt to the Adriatic Sea, that the waters have conftantly a circular courfe. Entering by the mouth of the gulf, they flow north- ward along the caft coaft, whence fweeping round the Gulf of Venice, they return fouthward by the Kcclefiaftical and Neapolitan confts. In confequcnce of this motion fhips follow the fame courfe in navigating to and from Venice, . The principal lakes are thofe of Maggior, Lugano, Como, Ifco, and Garda, in the north ; with Perugia or Trafimene, Bracciano, Tarni, and Celano, in the middle of Italy. No. 24, 7'he chief rivers are as follows : viz. the Po, which rifes in the Alps, and running northward, pafles by 'I'urin and Chivas, whence directing its courfe to the cad, through Piedmont, Montferrat, the Milanefe, and the territories of Venice, it difcharges itfelf into the Adriatic by fcveral channels] receiving in its courfe the two Dorias, the ''..ura, Seflii, Tefllno, Olana, Adda, Oglio, and Mincio, on the north fide ; and on the fouth, the Tenaro, Trebia, Taro, SechJ.i, and Parma. This great river, formerly called Padus, but more anciently Eridanus, divided Cifalpine Gaul into Cifpadana and Tranfpadana, and is famous in mythology from the flory of Phaeton. The Var divides It^ly from Provence, and falls into the fea near Nice. The Adige rifes in Tyrol, whence running fouth by Ti'nt, it bends to theeaft at Verona, and difcharges itfelf into the Adriatic a little north of the Po, The Toghamenta, Piava, and Brenta, rife in the Alpj, and running fouth-ead through the terri- tories of Venice, fall likewife into the Adriatic. The Arno rifes in the Apennine Mountains, and running weft by Florence, through one of the fineft vales in Italy, difcharges itfelf into the fea of Tufcany below Pila. The Rubicon rifing in the fame moun- tains, proceeds caftward, and falls into the Adriatic near Rimini. Here likewife is the fource of the cele- brated river Tiber, which running fou:h-weft by Rome, falls into the fea at Oftia, about twelve miles below the city. I'he Voltorno rifes alfo in thofe mountains, and running weft through Naples, falls inco the fea below Capua. The air of this country is generally temperate and healthful, though in the mountains and feme .f the valleys refpedtively, it tends to oppofile extremes. A confiderable diflierence in the climate may be per- ceived between the territories on the north, and thofe on the fouth fide of the Apennine, the former being much the mere temperate. This country, fo much the boaft of the ancient Romans, under the various names of Italia, Latium, Saturnia Tellus, and Uef- peria, is with great juftice denominated the Garden of £urope. It produces all forts of fruit that are indigenous to a warm climate, with oil, and wine, in great plenty. Silk alfo is one of its capital com- modities, with rock-cryftal, alabafter, fine marble, and Venetian fteel. T' e mauufudures are chiefly gold and filver fluffs and velvets, . „;, ^ HAP. II. 0/ Savoy— Pieilmont—tht Milanefe— Gtnoa — Parma —Mantua— Fenice. TTALY may be fubdivided into three parts or ■*■ dlftricls, viz. the north, the middle, and the fouth. The firft comprehends the duchies of Savoy, Piedmont, and Montferrat, with the territories of Genoa, the duchies of Milan, Mantua, Parma, Modena, and the territories of Venice; the fecond divifion comprehends the duchy of Tufcany, the pope's dominions, and the ftate of Lucca; and the third the kingdom of Naples, 4 C The t^ H M N [EUKOPF, • 'the duchy of Savoy ii bounded on tb« north by (he like and territoriei of Genev*, on the etft by SwitxerUnd ind Piedmont, on the fouth by Dtuphin^ ■nd another part of Piedmont, and on the weft by Dauphino and Franche Compti; being about eighty Ihilei in length, and feventy in breadth. The country ii generally barren and encumbered with the cold high mountain! of the Alpt { but there are Tome pleafant fruitful valleyi, producing corn, wine, and fruit. It tboundi in cattle, game, venifon, and wild fowl) and the lakea and rivers afford fiOi in great plenty. The chief town ii Chamberry, fituate in 5 degrcei 50 minurei of eaft longitude, and in 45 degress 35 minutet north latitude, eighty milci north-weft of Turin, and forty fouth of Geneva. The other prin- cipal towns are, Montmelian, Annecy, Tonon, Ao ifte, Mouftiers, Maurienne, and Bonneville. The duehy of Savoy is fubje<£t to the king of Sar- dinia. The greateft difadvantage attending its fitu- ation is that of being expofed to the incurfions of the French, by whom It is frequently ravaged in every «rar between the two nations. The p'incipality of Piedmont, fo named from its lying at the foot of the Alps, it bounded on the north by thofe mountains, which feparate it from Savoy { on the eaft by the duchies of Milan and Montferrat; 6a the fouth by the territories of Genoa, and the county of Nice) and on the weft by France, from which it is divided by the river Var and the Alps ; CMendtng about a hundred and forty miles in length, and near a hundred in breadth. This country enjoys not only a moft delightful climate, but alfo a fertile foil, abounding in corn, rice, wine, fruits, cattle, filk, hemp, and flax. Hardly any dominion of equal extent yields the fovereign fo great a revenue. It is however eXpofed to the fame inconvenience as the duchy of Savoy, and the crops are fometime* deftroyed by ftorms of bail, called the ptague of Piedmont. This country was formerly a part of Lombardy, but is now fubjed to the king of Sardinia, who is an abfoluie prince, fovereign of the ifland of Sardinia, Piedmont, Montfefrat, and Savoy, with the counties of Nice, Tende, and Bogllo or Buel, with the pro- vinces of Oneglia, the Alexandrin, Vigavano, and Lomelin. The adminiftration of the government in thefe provtaces is committed to a council of ftete, a council of finances, and other boards, all of which are fubjefl to the controul of his Sardinian majefty. The city of Turin, the capital of Piedmont, and of the king of Saridinia's dominions, is fituate in 7 degrees 16 minutes of eaft longitude, and in 44 de* grees 50 minutes north latitude, at the confluence of the rivers Po and Doria, feventy miles fouth-weft of Milan, and fixty-two fouth-eaft of Lyons, and a hundred north-weft of Genoa. The town is of a quadrangular figure, about three miles in circum- ference, containing feveral fpacious ftreets and fquares, with lofty and m^tgnificent buildings, and is fortified as well as the fituation of the place will admit. The royal palace is much admired, no lefs on account of the grandeur of the edifice, than of the many valuable painti'.gs with which it is furniflied. Here is one' of the moft celebrated Egyptian antiques in all Iialy^ known by the name of the table Ifiaque. It is a (lib of copper covered with hieroglyphici. The principal figure is an Ifis fitting: flic has a kind ^r hawk on- her head, and the horns of a bull. Various are (he •onje£kures formed by the learned in regard to the meaning of the emblematical figures upon this tab'e. Some have imagined that the flab was Intend.-H for a compafs { others, • perpetual calendai > while not a few pretend to difcover in it principles of phiiofopliy and political and others affirm that it contains a com- plete fyftem of theology, fiui whatever may be the myftery conveyed in this celebrated antique, the Sgures are obvioufly the reprefentation of men, women, birds, and other animals, confufedly grouped together, and rudely delineated, with filver inerufted into copper. The other moft confpicuous towns in the principa- lity of Piednaont are, Sufa, fituated on the river Doria, on the confines of France, thirty miles north-weft of Turin; Saluss, an epifcopi.! city, feventeen miles fouth of Turin ) Nice, fituated at the mouth of the river Var, eighty miles fouth-by-weft of Turin ; a well fortified town, the fee of a biftiopt Oneglia, lying in the territories of Genoa, but fubjeft to the king of Sardinia. It is fituated fifty miles north-caft of Nice, and is a town of confiderable trade. The duchy of Montferrat contains about two hun- dred fmall towns and caftles, and is a pleafant fruitful country, lying northward of the territories of Genoa. This duchy was formerly divided between the dukca of Savoy and Mantua { but upon the death of the latter without iflue, in 1708, the houfe of Auftria ceded the duke of Mantua's part to the then dulie of Savoy, the anceftor of the prefent king of Sar- dinia, in whofe family it has continued fince that time. It is difficult to afcertain the revenues of the king of Sardinia with any degree of precifion. They feera however to be fufficient for all the public charges of the ftate, and for maintaining the dignity of the fove- reign with regal fplendor. Though in poil'eflion of fome port-towns on the Mediterranean, as well as of an infular kingdom, his Sardinian majefty can hardly be ranked among the maritime powers ; but he fre- quently has on foot a land army of upwards of twenty thoufand men, who may rival, in point of difcipline, the troopa of any nation. Savoy wu anciently poflefliid by the Allobroges, who were reduced to the obedience of Rome in the time of Auguftus. After the fall of that empire, and the decline of the Gothic nations by whom it was over- turned, this country was annexed to the dominion of the Burgundian kings, on the extindion of which, it was conferred on Berold, the fon of Hugh, duke of Saxony, in 999, by the emperor Otho III. his uncle, in whofe family it ftill continues. Amadeus was created duke of Savoy and prince of Piedmont, by the emperor Sigifmund, in 1391. Vi^or Amadeus II. being made king of Sardinia, abdicated his throne, in 1730, in favour of his fon Charles Emanuel; but afterwards repenting of this meafure, and endeavouring to lefumc the reins of govern- Italy.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. *9« of government, he wai confined by hit fucceflbr, ind died in prifon in the fixty-fixth year of his age. The Milanefe, or duchy of Milan* it bounded on the north by Switterland ; on the eall by the territoriei of Venice, with the duchies of Mantua and Parma) on the fouth by the Apennine mountains, which fepa^ rate it from Genoa j and on the weft by Piedmont. It it about a hundred and fifty miles in .ength, and (■i;;hty in breadth, well watered with lakes and rivers, Hnd abounding with corn, wine, and delicious fruits. It contains alfo many fine towns and villages, and is fubjeft to the houfe of Auftria. The capital of the country is the city of Milan, fituated on the rivers Olana and Lombro, two hundred and fifty miles fouih-well of Rome, and a huudred norih-eaft of Turin. It is of a round fip.ure, ten miles in circum- ference, furrounded by a wall and other fortifications, of which the extent is too great to be defended by an ordinary garrifon. The citadel however is one of the ftrongeft fortrefTos in Italy. The town, which is elegantly built, confifts of many fpacious ftreets and fquares, and is fuppofed to contain about thirty thou- fand inhabitants. The chief manufadlures here are fillc, brocade, and other rich ftufFs. The works of fteel and cryllal are alfo much admired ; and fo great is the reputation of the Milanefe artificers, in various branches, that they have monnpolifed almoft the whole trade of this part of Italy. The city of Milan is the fee of an archbilhop, and is adorned with a prodigious number of churches and religious houfes. The ca- thedral is a moft magnificent ftruflure, and contains, amongft innumerable ornaments, no lefs than fix hundred ftatues. In the college of St. Ambrofc are fixteen profelTors, who read lefiures every day. The gallery of this building is celebrated for a noble collec- tion of paintings, and the library contains upwards of forty-five thoufand printed books, befides a great number of valuable manufcripts. This duchy is fubjeft to the houfe of A'lftria, whofe vicar-general, or viceroy, refides in Milan. The city is governed by a fenate under the controul of this officer, who exercifes the fame jurifdiAion in the other towns and diftrids of the country. The revenues of the Milanefe are computed to amount to three hundred thoufanJ pounds a year. The territories of the republic of Genoa lie in the form of a crefcent on the Mediterranean Sea, from the town of Ventimiglia on the weft, to the territories of the republic of Lucca eaflward. It meafures in length about a hundred and fifty miles, extending no where twenty miles from-the fea, and in fome parts not ten. It is properly called the Riviere, or coaft of Genoa. On the land fide it is covered by the Apen- nine mountains, which feparate it from the county of Nice, Piedmont, the Milanefe, and Parma. The tops of thofe mountains produce neither trees nor herbage; but towards the bottom they are well planted with olives, vines, and other fruit. The Genoefe dominions however hardly yield any corn, and their feas not many fifh. I'he city of Genoa, the capital of the republic, is fituatr in 8 degrees 57 minutes eaft longitude, and in 44 drgrees 25 minutes north latitude, part of it along the fhore of a ctrcaltr bay, and put rifing graduallr backwards in the form of a great amphitheatre, Tha harbour is large and deep, but expofed to the fouth- weft wind} againft which however there Is a mote for the fecurity of their galleys and fptall velTels. The houfes are well built, fire or fix ftories high. Th« principal ftreet is formed by a range of palaces, exceed- ing elegant, the fronts of feveral of which confift en- tirely of marble. The city it furrounded by a wall and other works, fix miles in circumference; beyond which, at a little diftance, it a fecond wall, enclofing the hilb that command the place. The city containa fifty-feven churches, with feventeen convent*, and i* the fee of an archbilhop. The legiflative authority ia lodged in the great fenate, confifting of the figniory, and four hundred principal citizens, ele£ied annually out of th* freemen. The figniory is compofed of the doge and twelve other members, who hold their places two years. To this body, alBfted by fome other councils, is committed the adminiftration of govern- ment i four parts in five of the fenate being neceflar/ to conftitute a majority. While the doge continues in office, he refidei la' the palace ereded by the public for his accommodation, and is attended by guards, in the manner of « fovereign prince. He is clothed in robes of crimfon veivft, and addreD'td with the title of moft ferene ; the fenaiors being ftylcd their excel- lencies, and the nobility illuftrious. Thofe of the latter clafs derive their titles from the lands which they polTefs in Naples, Milan, and other countries, a pri- vilege that has been juftly confidered as a fault in the conftitution of the republic, the fubjeQs of which, by being permitted to purchafe honours and eftates abroad, become thereby dependent on a foreign jurifdiAion, repugnant to the intereft of their country. The forces of the republic are ufually fbur or five thoufand men, but fo.'netimes they have been increafej to the number of twenty thoufand. The ordinary revenue is computed at two hundred thoufand pounda a year. There is here a bank, which has part of the public duties for its fund. The crown of Spain ia much indebted to this republic for money lent during the reign of Philip II. and other fums fince that time} the intereft of which, or part of it, being regularly paid, but none of the principal ever difcharged. The territories of Genoa not being fruitful, the magiftrates ufually keep two or three years provifiona of corn, wine, oil, and other netelTaries in their magazine, which they fell out at reafonable prices fo the public in times of fcarcity. The chief manufactures of this place are rich filks, velvets, and brocades, of which they export a great quantity, as well a* of winej oil, fruits, anchovies, fweet-meats, and feveral fort* of drugs. The territory of Genoa formed part of the ancient Liguria, which, with the reft of It?'y-, fell under the dominion of the Romans. Upon the deftrudion of that empire, it was invaded by the Goths, and after- wards made part of the kingdom of the Lombards. It next became fubje£l to the German empire, and during the Wars between the pope and the emperor, afTerted its independency. VarioHS forms of govern' L nent igz THE M O D !• R N [KuFops. ment being adopted tOer thii revolution, the people were fun^'tumcii Tubjedl to the nobili:y, and at others to one fovcreign, who were fuccelfively the arch- bifliop ot Milan, the king of France, the marqui^i of Montferrat, the duke of Milan, and again the French king. I'hc prcfent conllitution of tlie republic was fettled oy Andrew D>iria, in 1518, who relieved his country from the ("orei|in yoke under \,;iich it had formerr' bicr hcl.l. Thiu rtpublic once rii/allcd the. Venetians in traffic, and the dominion of ih'* Mediterranean Sea. They alfo poflbflcd fc\cral towns un the coall ot Greece, and the Ku :inc Sl.i, with (oma of the Grecian iflands in the Archipelago, and took the illand ol Corfica from the Saracens. Their foreign poflc/lion' however ha"e been lod, with the declonfion of heir maritime power. They have now only fome armed galleys, and are ufually under the influence of Spain and Nrples, the greater part of their cdatcs being fiCuated within the latter kingdom. The duchy of Parma is Loundcd on the north by the river Po, which feparates it from the Milanefe) by the duchy of Modena on the fouth-eafl; on the fouthwcft by ilie territories of Genoa } and on the weft by another part of the Milanefe; being about fixty milcj long and fifty broad. It is a '" rtilt coun- try, abounding in corn, rice, wine, oil, and fruits, with rich paflurcs and cattle, Heri are alfo mines of copper and fil; er, Parma, the c.npital, ia pleafantly fituated on a river of the fane name, in u degrees of call longitude, and 44 degrees 50 minutes ncrth lati- tude, fixty miles northeafl of Genoa, and fixty-five fuuth-eaft of Milan. Thj town is of a circular form, about three miles in circumference, defended by a citadel, and other modern works, which arc cftecmcd ^cry llrong. Here is an univerfity, and the fee of a biftiop. The dome of the cliurch o,' St. John is adorned with excellent paintings, the work uf the celebrated Corctgio, who was a native of this place. The duchy of Parma is fubdivided into Parma and PUccntia; the latter of whicii li.is for its capital the town of the fame name, fituaxd thirty miles norih- Thc u irliy of Mantiu is bnundid on the north by the Brcfci..T and Veroncfe ; on the call by another p»rt of the V>nctian tcrritorieij on the fouth by the duchies of Modeiia and Mii.iiidola; and on tl'.e wc(t by the Miliriefr; bcini; about fifty miles long, and Irom ten |i> fidy broad. The country abounds in torn, wine, filk, fl.ix, paflure, .iiid excellent (ruin. I lie thief town is M.mtuJ, lituaie in 10 dei^rcei 47 minutes cart longitude, and in 45 degrees 10 mi- nutes north latitude, in the middle j( a lake formed by the river iVlincio, eighty miles .outh-vycft of Ve. nice, ai.d feventy weft of Milan. It has a comniuni- calion with the Continent by three caufeways defended by fortt. and is about five miles in circumference. 1 ho ftrt^i. and fqua'-es are fpacious and elrpanty built. The number of inhabitants is computed at upwards of four hundred thoufand. Here is an ex- cellent man .faflure of filk, hence called Maniuan filk. The town is tde fee of sin archhifliop, vho 'u imme- diatcly ''■ibjetk to -he pope, ami has nc other fuperior. At this place was born the pjct Tail'oi and the village of Andes, about two milei 'rom it, is celebrated for the nativity of Virgil, Mantua mufarum donius, atqiie ad fulcra cantu Evcfl.i Andino, & Smyrna-is sniula pleftris. Sit, Ir.M., Mantua formerly conftituted part of llio kingiloiu nf Lombardy, but was conquered by Charlemagne about the year 800, from which time it '.ontinued a province of the German empire until the Mars between the pope and the emperor, when the inhabitants ercilcd a republic. This form of government however was overturned by fome of the principal citizens, who af- fumcd the Ibvercigniy of the ftate, and reigned fuc- cefTivcly under the denoiiiiiiatioii of tyrants. In 1328, the laft of thofe ufurpers was depofed by Lewis dc Gonzaga, who obtained the fovereignty as the emperor's vicarj his fuccefi'urs enjoying the title of lords of Mantua till 1435, when the emperor conferred on the family the title of marquis, and afterwards that of duke. In 1703, however, the duke adhering to the weft of Parma, It ftands about half a mils fcuth of 1 French intcrcft againlf the houfe of Auftria, the latter the river Po, in a fruitful plain, well watered with ! feized upon the duchy as a forfeited fee, and has ever rivulets. The town is upwards of three miles in cuLumfcrence, fortified, and defended by a citadel. The duchy of Parma has been fjcceTively fubjedf to the wcftern emperors, the pope, the Venetians, the Milanefe, and .the French. In 1545, pope Julius re- duced it again under the power of the Roman fee; and pope Paul III. created his natural fon, Peter Lewis Farnefe, duke of Parma. In 1736, after the death of the preceding duke of Parma, the duchy was affigned to the houfe of Auftria, by a treaty concluded between tbs late, emperor Charles VI. and F'rance, and pofllf- fion was taken of it accordingly : but the pope, who claimed it as a fief of the holy fee, protefled againft this fettlement. By the treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle, fincc kept pofieflion of it. The revenues of the duchy are computed to amount to three hundred thoufand pounds a year. The republic of Venice is bounded on the north by the country of the Grifons, Trent, and Tirol ; on the eaft by Carniola ai;d the Gulf of Venice ; on the fouth by Romania and the duchy of Mantua; and on the weft b}' the duchy of Milan ; being a hundred and eighty miles long, and a hundred broad. The country is level and the full fruitful, producing corn, wine, filk, rich pafture, and plenty of cattle of all kinds. The capital of the Venetian dominions is Venice, fituatc in 12 degrees 2 minutes of eaft longitude, and in 45 degrees 25 minutes north l.ititudej two hundred I it was conferred on the infant Don Philip of Spam, | and twenty miles north of Rome^ and a hundred and who has lince been d'jke of Parma, Placcntia, and i forty eaft of Milan. This city is faid to derive its Guaftella, a towr. 'n the duchy of Mantua, alio ceded origin from the fifliermen of Padua, who here built by the fame treaty. 1 tlicir huts on the laguncs, or marfliy grounds, whither . , feveral it- m / ' /f'^H,'o/'K^/^f/ (^f //u (Oa tWT'MihJbftaBTS CdmjJCited to amount io two hundred thouTand, The fovereign power of Venice is lodged in t«r.ued by a noble Venetian ; but for the land- I'ervice they make choice of fome foreign general, who is accompanied by feveral fenators, without whofe concurrence he cannot aft. For the mofl part, they alfo employ foreign troops in their waif, that the . kH . fabj«ds I IWB »5ii« u:.'l ■.'■.■^■iH |i»W ,w- ■ I ■boi cits Wi adorned with txccllent paintings, the work ol' the celebrated Coreggio, who was a native of this place. The duchv vf t'arma is fubdivideJ into P,\rma and Placcnlia; the latter of whicii h.is for its capital the town of the fiimi name, fitua:cd thirty miles north- weft of Parrna. It ftanJs about half a mile foutli of the river Po, in a fruitful plain, well watered with rivulets. The town is upwards of three miles in circumference, fortified, and defended by a citadel. The duchy of Parma has been fucceffively fubjed) to the weftern emperors, the pope, the Venetians, the Milanefe, and .the French. In 1545, pope Julius re- duced it again under the powi..- ol the Roman fee; and pope Paul III. created his natural fon, Peter Lewis Farnefe, duke of Parma, In 1736, after the death of the preceding duke of Parma, the duchy was afligned to the houfe of Auftria, by a treaty concluded between the late emperor Charlei VI. and France, and poflef- fion was taken of it accordingly : but the pope, who claimed it as a fief of the holy fie, protcfled againft this fettlement. By the treaty of Aix-Ia-Chapellc, it was conferred on the infant Don Philip of Spain, who has fince been duke of Parma, Placcntia, and Guaftella, a town in the duchy of Mantua, alfo ceded by the fame treaty. (lonzaga, who obtained the fovereignty as the emperor's vicar; his fuccrflurs enjoying the title of lords of Mniitua till 1435, when the emperor conferred on the fami.'y the title of marquis, and afterwards that of duke. In 1703, however, the duke adhering to the French intered againft the houfe of Auftria, the latter feized upon the duchy as a forfeited fee, and has ever fince kept polTcflion of it. The revenues of the duchy are computed to amount to tl\ree hundred thoufand pou ids a ye^r. The republic of Venice is bounded on the north by the counrry of the Grifons, Trent, and Tirol; on the eaft hy Carniola and the Gulf of Venice ; on the fouth by Romania and the duchy of Mantua ; and on the weft by the duchy of Milan ; being a hundred and eighty miles long, and a hundred broad. 'I'lic country is level and the foil fruitful, producing corn, wine, filk, rich pafture, and plenty of cattle of all kinds. The capital of the Venetian dominions is Venice, fituatc in 12 degrees 2 minutes of eaft longitude, and in 45 degrees 25 minutes north latitude; two hundred and twenty miles north of Rome, and a hundred and forty eaft of Milan. This city is faid to derive it<> origin from the fifhermen of Padua, who her^- built their huts on the lagunes, or marfliy grounds, whither fcvcral iTALV.J GENERAL TRAVELLER. a9J feveral confiiitrtblt familici of Padut ind Aquiiti* likcwifo rttircd, in the fifih century, to Uve them- fclvci from ftllint; into the himla of the Cjuthi, who then invtded Inly. At that time the foundation of Venit'c W4I laid on fcvcnty-two final! ilUnJs, but it now ftandi on a much grcutcr namber. Such in the natural advantage of iti fituation, and fo difficult the icci:li either by land or fca, that no power hai ever attempted to befiegc thii city, thou^jh it hat now flood upwardi of twelve hundred yean. The profpeA (if Venice, on approaching It either from the continent or the fca, ii extremely beautiful, nor ii the idea of iti uncommon grandeur diminifhed on arrivin;; in the city. The piazza of St. Mark it hardly to be equalled for the magnificence of in building! i and on the grand canal the houfei are for the mod part elegant Aruilurei with marble fronti, and adorned with pillari of the various orders of architc£)ure. The canaU are fo numerous that they are difperfed in every quarter of the town( and over them are four hundred and fifty bridgei, the principal uf which, called the Rialio, liei over the great canal, and ii compofed of one arch ninety foot wide, making one third part of a circle, Along the fidei of fome of the caniU, there are key: on which the people walk, but others are deftitute ui" this convenience, and in fome parti extend from one fide of the ftreet to the oppofite. The rooms are ufually hung with gilt leather or tapedry, and the bedfteadi are of iron, for the purpofe of fecuring them againft vermin, to which the warmth and moilture of the climate might expofe them. The low and maritime fituation of Venice, however, is attended with feveral difadvantages. The canals in the heat of fummer afford a very offenfive fmell ; all the water is bad, except what is brought from the continent 1 am) they have no good cellars for their wine. The circumference of the city is about fix miles, and the inhabitants computed to amount to two hundred thoufand. The fovereign power of Venice is lodged in the defcendants of the ancient families, of whom there are at prefent about fifteen hundred, (lyled noble Venetians, and who conftitute the grand council or aflembly of the flate { having a right to enter on their fenatorian office at the age of twenty- five. The doge or duke of Venice, though veiled with all the external marks of executive power, has in reality but very little (hare in the adminiftration of government; but he enjoys his dignity for life, Aa the Venetians claim the fole navigation of the Adriatic Sea, this magifirate, attended by the fenators, and a great num- ber of gondolas or veflels richly adorned, fails into the gulf annually on Afcenfion-Day, and throwing a ring into the Adriatic, efpoufes her, as proxy of the fiate. Befides the great council, or legiflative body of the republic, there are feveral orhers to which is com- mitted the charge of public affairs. One of thofe in particular has the power of imprifoning and putting to death the greateft nobleman, even the doge himfelf, upon the bare fufpicion of any treafonable 'kCwn, and No, aj. that without bringing him to an open trial, or al< lowing him the privilege of making his own de« fence. I'he territories of Venice are fubdivided into a number of dilhi£li, diOiiiguiflied by their chief towns, which are, Padua, Verona, Aquileia, &c. I'adua is fituated twenty-two miles well of Venice, in a fine plain, watered by the rivers Orentac and Bachiglione. The form of the city is circular, and about feven miles in compafs i but the ground within the walls is at prefent not half built, and many of the houfes are in a ruinous condition. This city was anciently one of the moft flourifhing in Italy. In the time of the Romans, the inhabitants amounted to a hundred thoufand, but at prefent hardly to a third part of that number i and its celebrated univerfity is now reduced to one college. Here is Aill however a manufa£lure of woollen cloth ; but the people ai* generally miferable through the oppreffion of the Ve- netian republic. According to tradition, this city was founded by Antenor, and a colony uf Trojans^ and here is fhewn an image of the Blefled /irgin, which, upon the fame oral authority, flew thither from Conflantinople, when the city was taken by th* Turks. Verona, capital of the Veronefe fubdivifion, ii fituated on the river Adige, twenty- four mil s north of Mantua. It is fix miles in circumference, well fortified, and containing feveral noble buildings. Among other antiquities is a Roman amphitbeatrei with the feats yet entire, and capable of accommodating twenty-five thoufand fpe£lators. The longed diametef of the area is two hundred and thirty-three foot, and the (horteft a hundred and thirty-fix. Here is alfo the remains of a triumphal arch, and a magnificent temple dedicated to Jupiter, At this place were borit the two Pliny's, the elder and younger, and VitruviuS the architect, Verona is yet diftinguilhed by ka uni- verfity, and is the fee of a bilhop. Aquileia, 'capital of Friuli, is fituated twenty-two miles weft of Triefte, and fifty-feven north-eaft of Venice, This was anciently a city of great eminence, but now much decayed. It is at prefent fubje£l to the houfe of Auftria, though its patriarch be one of thofe of the Venetian republic. The inhabitants of the Venetian territories are al- lowed no (hare in the government of the (late, nor is any refpe^l paid in the capital to the ancient nobility on the continent. The annual revenues of the republic are eftimated at one million two hundred thoufand pounds. The number of their land forces is about twenty-four thoufand. Their marine, it is computed, may fome> times confift of thirty men of war, a hundred galleys, and ten galeafles} but they feldom engage the Tvtki at fca without foreign alTflance, Their fleet is always commanded by a noble Venetian ; but for the land- fervice they make choice of fome foreign general, who is accompanied by feveral fenators, without whofe concurrence he cannot a£l. For the moft part, they alfo employ foreign troops in their wars, that the 4 D . fubjeas 294 THE MODERN [Europe. in Aibjefls of the flate may not be interrupted in their application to manufaftures and commerce, which are the fupport of the republic. Their exports connit chiefly of wine, oil, fruit, Venetian ftcel, copper, glafs, &c. with wrought filks of various kinds, brocades, gold and filver fluffs, damafki, and velvets. Though the Venetians, like the other ftates of Italy, profefs the catholic religion, the authority of the pope is here extremely inconfiderable. Their church has two patriarchs, the one of Aquileia and the other of Venice, who are entirely fubjecEl to the temporal power,. and regarded as little more than ryohersi confulcring ]ikewife as fuch the Roman pontift' in his ecclcfiafticnl cnpicity. A kind of inquifition indeed is here tole- rated, but the co'jrt can put none of their decrees in execution without the leave of the ilate. In proportion tp the fmall authority of the ecclefiaftici, religious prejudices are rarely found among the Venetians, nor js even public decency required in thofe of the clerical fuodion. Monks and priefts may not only enjoy the diver'fion of mafqucrading during the carnivul, but may keep concubines, fing upon the ftage, and take 'vl.at liberties they plc^f". provided that they do not interfere in the affairs of government. The diffolute- nefs of the nuns is, equal to that of the clergy, and they openly violate the coercive regulations of the patriarpb towards reffraining their immoralities. The Venetians, confidered as a trading people, are perhaps more addicted to pleafure than the inhabitants of any other nation, and feem not even to poflefs the virtues of frugality and temperance, which are ufuaily found to prevail the mod in republican governments. The cuftom for the ladies to have their cavaliere fer- venti, or cicifbco, is here univerfal. A perfon under this denomination enjoys fo intimate a familiarity with the lady to whom he h attached, that he may be legariied in every rcfpedl as her hufband, more properly than the nominal partner whofe wife fhe is reputed, in confequence of a marriage by which her paicnts had facrificcd her affedlion to confideration'; of in- tereft. Here are many fmall houfes, named cafinos, con- fifting of one or two rooms on a floor, nu.itly fitted up } .ntended for the reception of coteries, where the company play at cards, and generally fup together. The Venetians were formerly much richer and more powerful than at prefcnt, poffeffing the whole trade of the Levant, and not only mafters of a great part of Italy north of the Po, but alfo of the Morca, and the nunlerous iflands in the Archipelago. Upon the Portugucfe difcovcring the way to India by the Cape of Good Hope, however, the Venetians loll a valuable branch of their commerce, with the ruin of which their wealth and power began to decline. They have £nce been obliged to abandon their territorial acquifi tions in Greece, as well as almoft all the iH-indn in the adjacent fcas; and their conilncntal poiicOiuns an now iciiriiSled to their territories in Italy, with Ittria. Morlachia, and fomc towns on the coaft of Dalmatia, north of the Gulf of Venice. H A r. III. 0/ Modtna — Lucca— Tufiany—dcminUm tf tk fcpt—m Naples— Italians— cham^ii—hi/Uiy, ' I *HE duch;- ^^ I'lodena is bounded on the north ■*■ by Mantua; on the call by Romania; on the fouth by Tufcany and Lucca; on the well by I'arina and the territories of Genoa. It ij about fitly miles long, and forty broad, a pleafant feitile country, abounding in corn, wine, filk, rich paftures, and excellent fruits. The capital is MoJena, fituate in II degrees 20 minutes of eaft longitude, and in 44 degrees 34 minutes north latitude, forty miles fouth of Mantua. The houfes in tl.j city are not well built, but it contains fume handfome itrui51a; on the call and fouth by Tufcp.ny ; and on the weft by the Tufcan Sea and the territories of Genoa j extending twenty- five milci in length, and in breadth about twenty. Lucca, the capital, is fituate in II degrees 36 minutes of call longitude, and in 43 degrees 50 minutes north lati- tude, near the river Serchio, twelve miles call of the Tufcan Sea. The town is elegantly built, about three miles in circumference, furrounded by a wall and other modern fortifications. The legiflative authority of this republic is lodged in a fenate of two hundred and the principal in- habitants; and the executive power adminiAered by the gonfalonier, or ffandard-bcarer. the chief officer of the fhte, affiflcd by a council of nine members, who are changed every two months. All elcflions of ofEcers are made by balloting in the fenate. By the diligence of the natives this town has obtained the name of Lucca the Indulfrious. The principal m.iiiu- fadurcs ate thofe of filk, and gold and filver ftuffi, The mliabitants oblige all travellers to leave their arms at the gate, and will not fuffer any perfon to wear a iword in the city. This place is the fee of a bilhop, immediately fubjeft to the pope, and he officiates in ne robes of an archbifhop. The olive oil produced m the territory of Lucca is in great efteem. Of corn chey have only a fmall quantity, but abundance of wLnc. Italy.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. ^9$ wine. The otdinary revenues of the ftate are efti- mated at thirty thoufand pounds a year, which enables Ihem to ratfe on any emergency a body of ten thoufand men. This republic ufually fliared the fortunes of the reft of Italy, till they purchafed their independency of the emperor Rodolph, for ten thoufand crowns, in 1279; fince which time they have remained a free ftate, but greatly declined in refpeft of traffic, and raval power in the Mediterranean, for which they 'once were confpicuous. The duchy of Tufcany is bounded by the territories cf Lucca and Modena on the north-weft ; by thofe ef the pope on the north-eaft and.fouth; and by the Tufcan Sea on thefouth-weft; being a hundred and fifty ttiiles long, and about a hundred broad. This coon- try being almoft encompafled on the laiid fide by the ApenAine mountains, the air in thofe parts is generally Cold, and the foil barren; but in others the climate is agreeably temperate, and there arc feveral fine valleys, 6f great extent, as well as uncommon fertility. One in particular, which runs acrofs this country, from Arezzo to the Tufcan Sea, .ibounds in corn, wine, oil, oranges, figs, citrons, and other excellent fruits. No country affords greater plenty of mulberry-trees, on which account the natfves are enabled to make the richeft filks. Tufcany is fubdivided into three diftrifts, viz, the Florentine, Sianefe, and Pifan. The capital of rhe firft, and of all Tufcany, is Florence, fituate in 1 1 degrees 24 minutes of eaft longitude, and in 43 degrees 46 minutes north latitude, on the river Arno, a hun- dred and twenty five miles north of Rome, and forty- five eaft of Leghorn. This town, which on account ef its beauty is difting^ifhcd by the nar.ie of Florence the Fair, is defended by a wall and other modern works, with three citadels, the extent of the whole in circumference being .ibout fix mile?. The private buildings are Itjfty, the fquares fpacious, the noble- men's palaces equal to any in Italy, and the churches little inferior to thoft of Rome. Almoft all the ftrects are adorned with ftatues and fountains ; but the valuable antique flatues, curiofitics, and paintings, in the great duke's palace, are unrivalled by any in the world. This elegant city is fuppofed to contain feventy thou- fand inhabitants. It has nineteen gates, feventcen large fquares, twenty-two hofpitals, eighty nine con- vents, and a hundred and fifty-tvVo churches. Here is alfo an univerfity, and the fe^ of an archbifliop. The chief town of the Sianefe fubdivifion is Sienna, fituated thirty-fix miles fouth of Florence, on an eminence, in a pleafant and fruitful valley. This town is likewife elegantly built, about four miles in circumference, encompafled with a ruinous antique wall, and defended by a citadel. The cathedral is cfteemed one of the fineft pieces of Gothic archiiedlurc rn Italy. An archbiHioprick and univerfity are alfo difViniSions of tlils place. Sienna was formerly a power- ful re^iitlic, and often contended with the Flortntincs for fiipcriorily in war. The niagiftiacy confifls 5 minutes north latitude, a hundred and fixteen miles north-eaft of Rome. This was a Greek city, built by the Syracufians, who fled from the tyranny of Dionyfius, and had once a noble harbour, erefled by the emperor Trajan. In the fame territory ftands the celebrated city of Loretto, three miles weft of the Gulf of Venice, and fifteen miles fouth of Ancona, It is a fmall fortified town, confifting only of one ftreet within the gate, and another without. According to the catholic tra- dition, here is the chamber of the blelTed Virgin, in which ihe was born, was iaiuted by the angel, and where Ihe brought up her fon Jefus till he was twelve years of age. This facred habitation is faid to have been tranfported by angels into Dalmatia, on the eaft fide of the Gulf of Venice, in the year 1291 ; but the people of that country not cxprefling « due veneration i GENERAL TRAVELLER. jtALY.] for the favour, it was about three years after cai'ried orer into Italy by the fame meani, where having fUf- fered various removals, it was at length fixed at Lbretco, its prefent ftation, under the cupola of the magnificent cathedral, which was built for the purpofe, Tlie chamber is thirty-one foot nine inches long, thirteen foot three inches broad, and eighteen foot nine inches high; is furrounded by a cafe of the whit'cft Carrara marble, half a foot diflant from it on every fide. In the interior chamber is an image of the blefTed Virgirt,' with a little Jefus in her arms, and a triple crown on her head i her perfon almoft covered with diamonds and pearls. Round the figure is a kind of rainbow, of precious ftones of various colours; all the ornaments, altars, and utenfils of the place being inexprclTibly rich. The gallery in which the trcafurcs are lodged is full of gold and jewels ; the votive donations, of emperors. Icings, popes, and princes, for many hundred vcars paft. This holy houfe was formerly vifited every year by near two hundred thoufand pilgrims; but the number of annual vifitants is now greatly diminlfhed. The time of the greateft concourfe is from the begin- ning of May, till the middle of July, and afterwards in September; the eighth of that month being kept as the birth-day of the Virgin Mary. On thofe occafions, every pilgrim contributes fomething to increafe the treafure. Loretto was conflituted a city and bifhop- rick by pope Sextus V. and by all true catholics it is cfteemed the moft facred place under heaven. The province of Spoletto, or Unibria, is fituated weftward of Ancona, and has fur its capital a town of its own name. This place is the fee of a bifhop, and was formerly very confiderable; but fufFered greatly by an earthquake in 1703. The Campania of Rome extends upwards of fixty miles along the coafl of the Mediterranean, in a di- reflion fouth-eafl from the city, as far as the Frontiers of Naples. This country has for many years been unhealthful, efpecially in the latter end of the fummer, on account of the many lakes and ftagnant waters, which in the time of the ancient Romans had been drained ofF. The metropolis of it, and the whole papal dominions, is Rome, once the miflrefs of the world. This celebrated city flands in 13 degrees of eaft longitude, and in 41 degrees 54 minutes north latitude, on the river Tyber, about fixteen miles north- eaft of the Tufcan Sea. The walls, as in the time of the Romans, are about twelve miles in circum- ference, but not a third part of the ground within them is at prefent occupied with buildings, the red being almoft entirely taken up with vineyards and gardens. Modern Rome flands fourteen or fifteen foot higher than the old city, on the ruins of which it is built; and a great part of the hills being wafhed down into the valleys, it is alfo become more level. The Tar- pcian rotk, whfntJ matefaflors were anciently thrown, and whicli was then fo terrible a precipice, is at pre- fent not more than twenty foot high. In general the ftreets are fpacious, and the houfes magnificently built. Theie are three hundred fine churches, befides a vaft number of palaces and convents. The church of St. Peter, which is faid to be the largcft i^ Chriften- No. 25, m dom, is incrufted, within and without, With marble. But the greateft curiofities in Rome are the ancient theatres and amphitheatres, pagan temples, obelifks* triumphal arches, ftatucs, 2cc. minute defcriptions of which might fill many volumes. One of the moft perfedl remains of RoOian magnifl^ cence is the amphitheatre built by Vcfpafian. It is five hundred and fifty 'foot long, four hundred and feventy broad, and one hundred and fixty high; fuffi« cient to contain eighty thoufand perfons ftated, and twenty thoufand ftanding. The (lone with which it is built is the fame that was ufed In many of the an* cient edifices of Rome, an incruftation of the aqua albunea, between Rome and Tivoli; and the orders of archiiedure that adorn the building, are the Doric^ Ionic, Corinthian, and Compofite. The entrance to the amphitheatre is by eighty arcades, feventy-fix of which were for the people, two for the gladiators and the wild beads, and tvvo for the emperor and his fuite, who came all the way under cover from the royal apartments. The vivaria of Domitian are ftill to be feen. The prifon which was built* by TuUus Hoftilius, and afterwards enlarged by Ancus Martius, yet remains, under the name of II Carcera Mamentino. The moft ancient part of it is a dungeon, to which the defcent is by a few fteps. The walls are exceedingly folid, and arc made to flope inwards pyramidically, whilft the roof is left nearly flat, in order to counterbalance the lateral prefTure, In this prifon they fhew the mark of St. Peter's head againft the wall, and the miraculous fountain which fprung up for the baptifm of the pri- foners. This is alfo the place of which Juvenal fpeaks in his third Satire, and Salluft in his Confpiracy of Cataline. There are five bridges over the river, twenty-eight gates, and three hundred antique towers ftill remain- ing. The caftle of St. Angelo, whither the pope retires on any apprehenfion of danger, is a modern fortification, but of no great ftrength, and ferves rather to keep the city in awe, than to defend it againfl a foreign enemy. The pope's palace, named the Vatican, is extremely magnificent, fituated on an eminence, one of the feven hills on which the ancient city was built. It is faid to confift of five hundred and fixty rooms. The parts moft admired are the grand ftair-cafe, and the pope's apartment; but chiefly the Vatican library, the richeft in the world, both in printed books and manufcripts. The city is well fupplied not only with water, by their noble aquedufls and fountains, but with all forts of provifions, and thofe of the beft kinds. The inhabit tants are extremely obliging to ftrangers, and are com- puted to amount to a hundred and fifty thoufand. Twenty miles eaft of Rome ftands the city of Tivoli, the ancient Tibur, fituated on the river Anio, now calle^ the Teverone. From the high fituation, and its b ing the refort of all the great, it had anciently the epithet of Superbum. The hill, on the fide of which it ftands, is covered with olive-trees for five ot fix miles, and adorned with beautiful houfes of the nobility, whence there is a delightful profpeA of the 4 E Cam' *^ H MODERN [EuRort. I CmHW'^ M (f^ fto^e. The palace of the family of i^^F, i)w)ce) of M<>< >• *nuf;b admired for i» afcj^i^V'^t Sculpture, and paintings, as well ai its gftdfian fMf4 waterrfyorks, Tivoli was the retreat of many of the moll eminent of the ancient Romans, in the hot ffafoa. Here Horftce had his favourite villa, aivl hith^ Augu/lqs alfo (requently reforted, on ac- cgHfft 9f the p|ea/f>nt l^uation, and the falubrity of J^t (he mputl) of tire Tyb^r, on the fouth fide, twrejvf; ;pi|ei) foi^;h of I^ome, Aand^ Oftia, formerly the pqr^-towi> to the city, but the h^bour is now ciia^j^ei) vPi and the place lies in ruins. 7^1^ town pf Albano, famous for its excellent wine, and beautiful profpe£^s, is fttuated fifteen miles fouth- ca(l of Rome, fuppofed to be near the place where fbrnterly flood Alba Longa, The divifion of the popp's dominion*, diftinguiflied by the name of St. Peter's Patrimony, is bounded on the north and call by Tufcany and Umbria; on the nortb- eaft by Sabiaa; on the fouth-eaft by the Campania of Rome i and on the well by the Tufcan Sea. The chief town of :his province is Vitcrbo, fituate twenty- five miles north of Rome. Here likewife flands Civita Vecchia, thirty-five miles north-well of Rome, on a bay of the Tufcan Sea. This place, which is the fUtion of the pope's galleys, is defended by a fortrefs, and a few years fince declared by his holinefs a free port. The other eminent towns are, Bracciano, Catlro Orvito, and Aquapendente. The pope poflefTes over his dominions the power of an abfolute fovereign, '^'e confiftory of cardinals, who are his council in eccUfiaftical affairs, having no au- thority to intermeddle in the civil government of the Hate. The Campania of Rome, on account of its viciiiity, is ufually fubjo£l to his own immediate fuper- intendence; but the other provinces are governed by officers whom he appoints, under the title of legates, or vice-legates. He alfo nominates to the command of the forces in all the provinces and cities ; but in the latter, the podedas, or judges, and other interior officers, are ele£lcd by their refiiedive inhabitants. His prime-mioifter is the cardinal patron, for the mofl p^rt his nephew, who f'eldom failj to amafs an enor- mous ellate, if his uncle's puntificate proves of con- fiderable duration. Th« pope ingrofies all the corn in his dominions, the farmers being obliged to fell the produce to his agents at the price he fcts upon it, and the latter again retail it to the people at »» advanced price, which is ftich however as is generally allowed to be moderate. Some have computed the papal revenue to amount to a million flerlipg, or.up""<<'4si but this mull far ex- ceed the fum that arifes from his territorial pofTeffions. In former times, the pope's contingent profits alone were much fuperiot even to this valuation } but thofe cafuaities are now greatly diminilhcJ by tlic fuppreffion of the Older of Jcfuits, from whom he drew vail fup- plies; as well as in conicqucnce of the meul'ures taken by the feveral popifh powers, for picvcnting the great ccclefiaftical iflues of money to Konic. According to the beH accounts, the taxes u|>on dkc provifions and 4 lodgings, furaiflieil to foreigneri, who fpend immenfe t\uat io viAting hit dominioni, form at prefent the m'oft confidcrable part of his accidental revenues. The pope, like other temporal princes, has his guud*, or (birri, to whom is entrufled not only th* care of his perfon, but the peace of the city, under proper magiflrates, both ecclefiaflical and civil. He ufually maintains an army of twenty thoufand men, flationed in different parts of his territories, and has alfo « fleet of galleys. With refpeiSl to the pope's eccIeAaAicat dominion, it is extended over all the countries where the catholic religion prevails, the people of every nation efteeming allegiance to their refpe^ive fovereigns no longer • duty, when it comes in competition with that which they owe to the papal chair. Of late years, indeed, many temporal princes, as well as their lay fubjeAs, have difputed the pope's fupremacy ) but the monk* and regular clergy of the Romifh church remain uni- verfally attached to the holy fee. The number of thofe partizans, it is computed, may amount to two million ; a formidable body, by their intrigues, when we confider that they are in every great family in the catholic countries, and have an almoft unbounded in- fluence over the minds of the people. The fucceffor to the papal chair is elcAed by the cardinals, who are feventy in number, when ccmplete, and are appointed by the pope upon a vacancy. There is always a majority of Italians in the conc<.ive, who take care that no foreigner is advanced to the holy fee, fince the fourteenth century, when feven popes refided fucceffively at Avignon, in France, to the prejudice of the Romifh capital. The pope is held by the catholics in the highefl veneration: they regard him as infallible, and his authority fuperior to all human controul. The greatefl princes have thought them- felves honoured by the permiffion to kifs his toe, and he is addreffed by the title of bis holinefs. The papal territories were held many yean under the fovereign jurifdi£iion of the emperor, who was flylcd the patron and defender of the church, until the reign of the emperor Henry IV. when the popes, weary of fubje£lion to a race of princes, who fometime* refufed to confirm their ele^ion, and at others dif- placed them, endeavoured to excite infurreflions both In Germany and Italy againfl the imperial power. When the above named empcor afferted his right of invefting bifhops in their fees, pope Gregory VII. excommunicated him, and compelled him by the dint of the papal anathema to relinquifh that part of hit prerogative. He even affumed a temporal authority over the profcrib-d monarch, not only fummoning him to anfwer the comph ints of his fubjeds, but de- claring that he had forleiird his right to the empire. The fame ambitious motives continuing to influence the papal councils, the fuccelfors of Gregory arrogated a jurifdi£lion over all the Chriflian princes, which they were long enabled to maintain, by .iteans of the unlimited fpiritual authority afcribed rn 'he Roman pontiff, in the times of (upcHit'ion and ignorance. In confequence of the Refo'ination, however, thd ancient bounds of the papal fovemi;;nty were greatly ^TALY.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. «99 (cftrifled s and by the gradual progrcft of philofophinl enquiry anu knowlcge, the aiirc hat betn almeft entirely divefted of thofe raya which had been aceuf- tomed to datzle the Chriflian world in the ages of darknels. I'hc Icingdom of Naplei, which occupies the fouth- call part of Italy, is fituaie between 14 and 19 degrees of eall longitude, and between 38 and 43 degrees of north latitude. It is bounded on the north->eaft by the Gulf of Venice, on the fouth-eaft by the Mediter- ranean Sea, on the fouth-weft by Sicily and the Tuf- can Sea, and on the north-weft by the territories of the pope} being about two hundred and feventy-five miles long, and a hundred broad. This country is divided into four provinces, viz. Terra di Lavoro, AbruEzo, Apulia, and Calabria, which are alfo fubdivided into diftrias. The firft of thofe provinces is fituatcd in the north- weft pait of the kingdom, and is remarkable for the wholeromeiiefs and delightful temperature of the air, as well as for the fertility of the foil, which abounds with all the fruits that grow in the climates of Italy, The capital of the kingdom is Naples, fiti. i - in 15 degrees 12 minutes of eaft longitude, and in 41 degrees 6 minutes of north latitude, a hundred and forty miles fouth-eaft of Rome. This city is fifteen miles in circumference within the walls, but including the fuburbs, it may be nearly double this extent. It fiands on an eminence rifing gradually from the fca, «n a fine bay about thirty miles in diameter ; the iflands which are before it forming a facure and commodious harbour. The buildings are moftly magnificent, which occafions it to occupy fo large a fpace of ground, and the number of inhabitants is computed at three hundred tboufand. This city is ornamented with s great number of elegant fountains, but in many of them the water ii very indifferent. The harbour is very fpacious, and has a grand light-houfe, with a mole near five hundred paces in length, which feparatcs the main harbour from the bafon. For the defence of the city, and at the fame time to keep it in fubjedion, are five caftlet, which confift of very ftrong walls. The Paftello Nuovo has a communication by a covert way with the king's palace; and one fide of it is contiguous to the fea. At its. entrance ftands a triumphal arch of very curious fculpture, near which is a brafs gate, de- corated with fine bjlTo relievos, reprefenting fome of the atchievements of the kings of Arragon. The church of the caftle is beautifully decorated with gild- ing and ftucco-work, and a piAa, in a room adjoining to it, is gre?,cly admired. The Caftello del Uovo, fo called from its oval form, ftands on a rock in the fea, and is joined to the conti- nent by a bridge, two hundred and twenty paces in length. It is fupplied with frcfh water by means of a ftone conduit, which is embelliflied with various figures of animals, and conveys the water under the bridge to the caftlc, wheic arc two refervoirs. The caftle of St. Elmo, or St. Eramo, is fituated on an eminence towards the weft, and is in the form of » ft4r with fix rays. The fubterraneous works, which are very fpacious, are hewn out of the rock ta fuch a depth as to be bomb-proof, on which account a great quantity of military ftoret is kept here. This caftle may be fupplied with provifions from Caftello Nuovo, by means of a fubterraneous communication.' In the upper part of it are feven cifterna for water, which is drawn up by buckets ; »nd under the vaults and mines is a refervoir large enough for two galleys to fail on. I'he other twocaftles are of little note. The cathedral in this city is dedicated to the Aflump* tion of the Virgin Mary, and, though a Gothic ftruc> ture, is very noble. On the high altar ia the Af-' fumption of the Virgin Mary, by Pietro PeruginO, who was Raphael's mafter. Fronting the altar ai. two pillars of red jafper, twelve foot high, without the pedeftals, which are of verdc antico. The pavement is inlaid with verdc antico, jafper, giallo antico, and porphyry. The remains of St. Januarius have been removed from the church dedicated to that faint, with- out the walls, to this fubterraneous chapel. The late emperor offered at his ihrine twelve filver eagles, ill the heads of which are twelve lamps krpt continually burning; a hundred fcudi a-year being appropriated for fupplying them with oil. The chapel called II Teforo, in this cathedral, is of beautiful architecture. Behind the high altar, which confifts entirely of red porphyry, is the flirine with filver doors, where they pretend to keep St. Januarius's head, with fome of his blood, contained in two cryftal phials. The chapel is of a round figure, and orna- mented with the ftatues of St. Peter and St. Paul, finely executed by Finelli, with two pillars of black marble moft beautifully fpotted. It likewife contains feven altars of the fineft marble, and forty-two pillars of broccatello. Round the upper part of the wall ftand twenty-one large bronze images of faints, each valued at four thoufand fcudi j under which are fixty filver bufts of fo n-.any other faints. About five Italian miles from the city of Naples ftand the celebrated Mount Vefuvius. This mountain, like Parnaflus, has two fummits; but at prefent only that on the right hand as you come from Naples is a volcano. The valley between thefe hills is about a mile long, and extremely fertile. The height of the burning fummit is computed to be eleven hundred fathoms above the level of the fea. The declivity towards the fea is every where planted with vines and fruit-trees j but the fouth and weft fides of thinate city were difcovered ) but farther fearchci having been ma'Je, at a confiderable cxpcnce, within thcfc forty year*, many valuable an- tiquities of various kinds have been found. At the diftance of eight miles from Naples is Pux- zuolo, the ancient Puteoli, which in the time of the Romans was a confiJerable city, but is at prefcnt on'" a Tmall town. The Lucrine Lake, fo famous among th: r.i;ri?an8 for its fine oyllcrs, and other dih, lies near the (hore, and is now greatly reduced in extent, having been for the mod part ''ricd up by a new mcuntain, which rofe inllantanecully in the night between the nineteenth and twentieth of September 153S, during an earthquake which caufed a terrible devadation in the neighbour- hood. The fubtcrraneous fire ejefled, by a wide chafm, fuch a quantity of ftoiic^', allies, fulphur, and fand, as within twenty -four hours formed this moun- tain, the perpendicular height of which is not lefs than four hundred rods, and the circumference three Italian miles. The lake of Averno lies in a n.irrow valley, and is about an Italian mile in circumference ; but its Wutcr has not the quality afcribcd to it by Virgil, and other writers, who reprefciit its puifonous exhalations as almoft inftantancoufiy killing the birds that attempted to fly over it. At prefent, fuwis are obferved not only to harbour about, but even to fwim upon it. It is flocked with fiHi, and is in fome places a hundred and eighty foot deep. The adjacent land produces excellent fruit and wine; and near the edge of the lake arc fome old walls, fuppofed tu be the remains of a temple of Apollo. In the fame valley is the entrance to the grotto of tlic libyl Cumana, which is hewn in the rock. The mouth fur a little way is low and n.irrow; but after- wards becomes ten foot broad, twelve high, and is feveral hundred paces in length. The grotto of Paufilippo is a fubtcrraneous paflage under a vad rock, about half a mile long, and near twenty foot widcj near which is (hewn the tomb of Virgil. The grotto del Cani is about twelve foot long, five broad, and fix high, and is famous for the poifonous vapours that exha'e from it. It is the opinion of Sir William Hamilton, who has examined the foil about Naples with great care and attention, that the fpot on which the city ftands, as well as the greater part of Italy, if not the whole, has been produced by fuht.iianeous fire, A tufa, exaflly rcfembling a fpecimcn taken from the infide of the theatre of Mcrculancum, layers of pumice intermixed with thofc of good foil, refembling what is found at Pompeii, and lavas like thofe of Vefuvius, compofe the whole foil of the adjacent country. Fifteen milts iionh-caft of the city of Naples, and fix miles caft of the fca, lies the city of Capua. It is fituated in 11 fine plain, on the river Volturno, but is now in a declining flatc, though yet the fee of an archbifliop. It was built in the year 856; and in 869 was made the firft archbifliopri-.k in the kingdom of N.ip!cs. 7'he ancient celebrated tlty of Capua, which vied in magnificence with Rome and Carthage, flood two Italian miles from the prefent town ) and out c«f its ruins was built the market-town of St. Maria, in the neighbourhood of whicli are iiiil I'een the remains of palaces, temples, and other buildings, particularfy a beautiful amphitheatre of free-Done, Gaieta is fiuated on the feacoaft, thirty-five miles north-weft of Naples. It is at prefent a ftrong town, and was anciently named Cajeta, from iSlneas's nurle. Aquila lies ninety miles eaft of Rome, and thirty, five miles weft of the Gulf of Venice. This was formerly a large city, but great part of it was deftroyej by an earthqu-^ke in 1703. Benevento is fituated at the confluence of the rivers Salato and Colore, which here form the river Volturo, thirty miles ""orth-eaft of Naples. The greater part of I*!', city was deftroyed by an earthquake in 1688, and the archbifhop, afterwards pope Bencdidt XIII. dug out of the ruins alive, who rebuilt it at his own expence, on his advancement to the papal chair. Benevento was formerly under the jurifdiiflion of the pope, but in the year 1768, the troops of the king of Naples took poflcflion of it in the name of their niafter, expelled the eccUfiaftical governor, and obliged tha inhabitants to fwear allegiance to that monarch, Tarento is fituated near a bay of the Mediterranean, in the fouth-eaft part of Naples, This was formerly a ftrong city, and of great antiquity, adorned with a temple of Neptune, who was worfttippcd here with peculiar veneration. Of this place were, Archytas, the famous geometrician ; Ariftoxenas, the mufician } Iccus, ihe phyfician, mentioned by Plato; and Rin- thon, the inventor of tragi-comedy. Brindifi ftands at the entrance of the Gulf of Venice, in 18 degrees 5 minutes of eaft longitude, and in 40 degrees 5a minutes north latitude. This is the an- cient Brundifium, whence, having an excellent har- bour, the Romans ufually took their paiTage to Greece; and here ended the Via Appia. Otranto ftands in the fouth-eaft extremity of Italy, forty-three miles eaft of Tarento. In the territory adjoining to this town is found the fpider called tar<>n> tula, which has been fabuloufly faid to infedt with a poifon, that could be cured only by mufic. The part of Naples in which the towns laft men- tioned lie, was anciently denominated Magna Gra;cia, a name afcribed to the vanity of the Greeks, who fent hither colonies at an early period. The other towns of note in this kingdom are, Salerno, Cerenza, Cofenza, Rhegio, St. Severino, Aquila, Chieta, Manfredonia, and Barri j among which we muft not omit to mention Baia or Baiae, fituated on the fca-coaft twelve miles weft o' the city of Naples. This place was anciently famous fo- its hot baths and elegant palaces j and here are ftill ft-wii the ruins yf buildings, faid to be the houfes of Cicfar, Pompey, Cicero, and other Romans of difliniSlinn. The little fpot called the Elyfian Fields, lies about a mile from Baia, but at prefent contains no remarkable traces of its former beauty. Naples was anciently divided into a great number of ftates, of which the Greeks were the moft numerous. It ft. ood tof in aiiis liles •wn, tie. frty. oyej Italy.) GENERAL TRAVELLER. 301 It wai afterwards fubdued by the Romans, on the decline of whofe empire, it fell fucceHively under the dominion of the Goths and Lombards, till being con- (juercd by Charlemagne, it waa divided between the VVeftern and Grecian emperors. In the nir.th and tenth centuries, the Saracens pof- fefled pa:c of Naples, and the Greeks the reft; the former of whom were expelled in the eleventh and twelfth centuries by the pope, with the afllllance of Chriftian volunteers, efpecially tiie Normans, Tancred, the Norman, ar.d his twelve fons, for their fervices (in this occafton, had conftdcrable territories there af- figned them. H'- ion Robert was created duke of Apulia and CalaL /a by theempcior; and Roger, the /on of Robert, was, afterv/ards proclaimed king of the Tuin Sicilies. Under this title were included Naples and the ifland of Sicily, the former having been an- ciently diftinguifhed by the fame name with the latter. The family of Tancred enjoyed the crown till the year 1 166, at wtiich time the pope introduced the carl of An] u, and the French, who held the dominion of the Two bicilies until the year 1282, when the Sicilians malTacred all the French in the idand of Sicily; a tranfaflinn to which they gave the name uf the Sicilian Vtliiers; bccaufc the tolling of the bells on Eader Eve was the fignal for the natives tu make the attack. From this period the Spaniards began to contend with the French for the kingdom of Naples, and they pod'eflcd ic alternately during feveral hundred years ; till at length the latter were entirely expelled about the year J504, and tlie Spaniards retained poflcffion of Naples, Sicily, and Sardinia, till I'/Oo; when the duke of Anjou, afterwaids k .ig of Spain, mounted the throne, but was driven from the Two Sicilies by the Auflrians, in 1707. fiy the treaty of Utrecht, in 1713, Naples and Sarilinii were confirmed to the houfe of Auftria, •lid the illaiid of Sicily allotted to Amadous, duke of Savoy. In 1717, the Spaniards reduced Sar'Hnia, and a great part of bicily next year; but relinqMfliing both by treaty foon afterwards, Sicily was transferred to the liouli (if Adria, and Sardinia to the duke of Savoy, wlih thf liile "f king of thai illand. The French, Spaniards, and Sardinians, invading the Aullrian duminions in Italy, in 1733, the Auflrians were driven out of almoll all their Italian dominions; and by a fubllqucnt peace, Naples and Sicily were fettled on Don Carlos, elded fon of the king of Spain, by his laft wife, the princcfs of Parma, The prefent king of the Two Sicilies is Ferdinand IV, third fon of the king of Spain, who fucceeded to the throne by the appcinti,icnt of his father, foon after his accelEon to the Spanifh crown, in 1759; on the exprefs con- dition, that the dominions of Spain, and thofe of Sicily and Naples, (hould never be united in one pcrfon. The pope infilling that Naples is a fee of the ecclcfiaf- (Itil lliite, on account of the fliare which his prede- nfl'prs had in recovering it from the Saracens, the king pays annually to the holy fee, the ufuai acknow- ledgement of a Spanifh jennet, and fevcn thoufand ducats, on St, Peter's ffje, for li/s Invnttiture, The digniHed clergy a«id WbilOjf of ihli kingdom ■re very niinieroui. In the catalogue of (In immv, N-. ij. we meet with no lefs than twenty-five archbifliops, and a hundred and twenty-five bifliops ; and in that of the latter, about three hundred princrj, duke«, marquifes, and earls. A great part of belongs to the clergy ; and the remainder to the crtiwn, the nobility, and gentry refpeilively. Every Icrd or gentlemaa who is prop'ecor of an eftate, is fovereign of the people who live upon it, and may be faid to have the abfolute difpofal of all their cfFe£ls, While they plough his lands, and plant his vineyards and olive-yards, they are hardly allowed proviiions fufficient for en- abling them to undergo the toil ; and the more to increufc their dependence, they arc amenable to the courts of their refpedlive lords in every cafe that is not capital. The confequcncc of this great oppreflion is, that though the country abounds in filks, the manufacture is very inconfiderable. They fend moft of it abroad unwrought, and that in fuch a manner as is highly difadvantageous to the traffic of the nation. For having few (hips of their own, as well as being deftitutc of the fpirit of commerce, the proprietors of the lands fell the produce of their '■dates to foreigners, who ufually export them in velTels belonging to their own country. As the nobility and gentry hold their lands by mili- tary tenures, the militia of the kingdom is numerous. This body however fecms not to enjoy the confidence of the crown, and is feldom called out ; the king ufually maintaining fifteen thoufand regular troops in time of peace, and being able, upon any emergency, to raife double that number. The government retains conflantly a fleet of armed galleys, and has lately begun to build fome fliips of war, I'he king's ordinary revenues are computed at a million a year, arifing from a compolltiun with the nobility and gentry for certain fums, in lieu of their pcrfonal fervices, from a duty on houfes, and an almod general excife. The crown alfu claims a power of laying additional taxes on the landed intered, accord- ing to the necellities of the date. The clergy arc fubjeiSl to no impods, but grant a free gift, which however is for the moft part proportionable to the taxes on the laity. Before the alarming infurrefiion of the populace, which was headed by Mal&nello, the necelTaries of life had been taxed by the government at Naples to an exorbitant degree ; but fince that event, the minif- ters of the crown have been far more referved in what- ever relates to taxation. The king however is an abfolute forereign, independent of all conftitutional rcdraint, and fubjedb to no other reftriftions than thofe of difcretion and prudence, which the competition of the houfe of Auftria may long continue to render neceffary. The Italians are generally of a middle dature, and few nf them are corpulent. Mod of them have black ha//. Hi well as eyes, and many ufe cofnietics to cor- rect the darknefs uf their complexion In their drefs, Ihey follow the Spanifh faihion, efpecially in the terri- 4 F toriei 302 THE MODERN toriei which were once fubjcft to that crown, is in the Milancfe and Naples, where they ufually wear blacic, to the no fmall detriment of their fillc manu- fa£lure. They are a people of lively imagination, •nd excel in the hue area of mufic, painting, fculpturc, and architecture. Uniting in their temper a happy mixture of vivacity and fedatenefs, their chara£lor is caually diftane from the frivolous levity of the French, and the haughty rcfervc of the Spaniards Though pollcfling great variety of delicious wines, they arc temperate in drinking j and may be faid to be rather luxurious than immoderate in tlie pleafures of the table. Their virtues, however, are fulli' J by vices of the moft deteftable kind, and they are jealous of (heir women in a degree beyond what may he thought compatible with their indifference towards the f-:x. In almoft every town tht-re arc :ieties <>'" tuofi, who frequently meet for their mi. . .', ;m; n.'nt in arts anc' fcienccs, and can maintai.- ■■, ,;■'.•.•'• con verfation without the aid of any e-i',,!.ii-">".' ,ior. The nobility and gentry afFcil great pi. ;. ihc ' r niturc o.r their houfes and equipages, though at il' fame time it is not uncommon for a nobleman, in fome places, to retail wine, with his own hands, to thofe who are inclined to purchafe it. At the moft diftant period, to which the hiflorical accounts of Italy afLcnd, the country appears to have been divided into a great number of kingdoms or Hates, which emerged from obfcurity only as they became connedied with the Roman power; though there be reafon to ccmclude, from the monuments of the Etruf- cans particularly, that the arts had flouriflied amonj; this people for ages previous to the foundation of Rome. The firft kings of Italy are faid to have been Janus, Saturn, Picus, Faunus, and Latinus, the latter of whom cnt:rtained .^neas at his arrival from Troy, and bedewed upon him his daughter Lavinia in mar- riage. In virtue of this alliance, Apneas fucceeded to the crown, on the death of his father-in-law, and was himfcif fucceeded by Afcanius, his fon by a former wife, who removed the feat of government to Alba Longa. This prince dying, the people advanced to the throne Silvius, the fan of .£neas and Lavinia, fctting afidc Julius, the fon of the former king, and, according to tradition, the anceftor of the Julian family; on whom however they conferred the honour- able office of high-prieft, Silvius was fucceeded by eleven kings in lineal defcent, the lad of whom, named Amulius, depofing his elder brother Numitor, ufurped his throne; but was afterwards killed by Ro- mulus and Remus, the grandfons of the latter, who reftored the reins of government to the rightful king. Thofe two brothers, leaving their grandfather in poflcflion of Alba Longa, laid the foundation of an- other city on the Tyber, which from Romulus obtained the name of Rome. This evrnt is fuppofed to have happened towards the end of the third year of the fixth olympiad, about four hundred and thirty years after the taking of Troy, and feven hundred and fifty-three years before the Chriftian a:ra. Remus being killed in a quarrel with his elder brother, the latter fucceeded to the fole government of the new 6 [EUROPB. erefled city, which he foon lugmenred by affording a reception to the banditti, and committing depre- dations on the nei:',hbouring dates. After a reign of thirty-eight years, he was fucceeded by Numa Poni- pilius, whufc wife inftitutions greatly reformed the inhabitants. On the death of this prince, the throno was fucccflively occupied by Tullus Hodilius, Ancui Martins, Tarquinius Piifcus, Servius Tullius, and Tarquin, furnamcd the Proud. Sextus, the fon of the latter, committing a rape on Lucretia, the wifa of Colljtinus a fenatnr, the king was banifhed by aii infurreilion of the people, and confular government eftablilhcd. Under this republican conllitution, the Romans incrcafcJ in power and grandeur for upwards o( four hundred and fifty years, till the civil war brtakini; forth between Cielar and Pompcy, an end was put to the liberty of the ftatc, which was hence* forth governed by a leries of abfolute princes, who had the title of emperors of Rome. Italy havin"' con- tinued fu!ijt;c> to the imperial government, during a fpacc almoft equal to the duration of the confular form, was at length over-run by the northern nations, at the period frotn which we commenced the hiftory of its fevcral kingdoms and flates. ISLANDS on tha Co.ift of ITALY. rjKG INNING our maritime furvey from the •*-' north-cart extremity of the Adriatic, we meet, in our progrefs fouthward, with fevcral iflands fubjedl to the Venetians. 7'hc principal of thefe are Cherfo and Ofero, which lie almoft clofe to cich other, and have therefore been confidcreil as one ifland. It is fituatcd between the coall of lliria and Dalmatia, extending in length from north to fouth about fixty miles, with a very unequal breadth. This ifland has often changed its name, but was known almod three thoufand years ago by that of Apfirtides, Apfirtus, and Apfirtiu?. It is mentioned in the poem of Orpheus upon the expedition of the Argonauts. In the heat of fummer, the air of Ofiro is extremely unwholfome, on account of the noxious vapour arifing from fome pieces of ftagnant water ; but this was not the cafe formerly, and might be eafily remedied. The moft confiJerable town is Cherfo, fituated at the bottom of a large harbour. It contains at prefcnc above three thoufand inhabitants ; but from the many ruins of houfes yet vifible, it appears to have becit formerly more populous. Both parts of the ifland are mountainous and flony, but peculiarly adapted for producing trees, if the inhabitants were fufficicntly induftrious. Oil is the moft valuable produce in Cherfo, and is reckoned the beft of any made in the Venetian ftate. The iflanders compute that they make of it annually from three thoufand to three thoufand five hundred barrels. In Cherfo and Ofero, as well as in other parts, aie found many of thofe foflll bones, which have fo much exercifcd the ingenuity of naturalifts, and for which it \i} fo difficult to account. ni Italy.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 303 I I'he principal of the other iflandi in the Dalmatic Sea ii LIHa, which is mentioned with particular marks of diftindkion both by the Greclc and Latin geographers. It is, however, only thirty miles in circu(nference, and if mountainous, though not without plaimi that •re capable of cultivation. The temperature of the air ii delightful, and the illand has no other incon- venience than a fcarciiy of frcfh water. I'his idand was anciently celebrated for its wine, which is not at prefenc ut' the bell quality. The honey, however, il ftill reputed excellent, but the bees do not make much, on account, as is fuppofed, of the fcarrity o( frelh water. The principal liibltance in the buwuls of LilFa is marble, and a whitilh calcareous ftone, in which foflll bunes arc frequently found. The ifland of Pclagofa, wiih feveral rocks that ap- pear above water near it, fccm to be the remains of an ancient volcano. The face of the IHand is ex- tremely rugged, and it is chiefly formed of a lava refcmbling that of Vcfuvius. Lefina is about forty-four miles long, and eight in the broadeft part, ilcrc has been culieded a variety of marbles, with yellow, green, and red flints, all penetrated by a pyritical denromorphous fl'ior. In the fniall brook of liorovaz there are alfo heaps of fo.Til bones, I'his illand, though Honey aiiJ barren in the highcll parts, contains good land, fit to bear not only fruit-tree'!, but likcwile corn, Brazza is in length about thirty-two miles, and of unequal breadth, but no where exceeding nine. Being remarkably mountainous and rscky, it is ill adapted to ajltivation ; and the fcarciiy i)f frclh water often fubjciEi:. it to fatal droughts. This ifland was anciently noted for the cxeellence of its kids, which, as well as the lambs, continue to be highly valued for the deli- cate tafte of their flefl. ; and on account of the fine paftuie, the chcefe of Brazza is by far the bed in Dalmatia. The ifland of .'iibe is about thirty miles in circum- ference; and though wholly uncultivated in the higher parts, has an exceeding pleafant appearance. The climate, however, is none of the happicft, the winter being for the moft part very teriipeftuous, eCpecially during the prevalence of the north winds. The moft remarkable circumftancc relative to the natural hillory of this ifland is, that on the heights are found large tra£ls of fand, mixed with an iron ochreous earth, depofited in regular ftrata, like thofe that are formed in fome other countries by the inundation of great rivers. On examining this fand with a microfcope, it is found to confift of quartz, and has been evidently produced by the trituration of matter feparated from ni>eral mountains, T.ie ifland of Corfu is fituated about four miles weft of the coaft of Epirus, and is about thirty-five miles long, and ten broad. With near a hundred villages, it contains the two cities of Corfu and Cafliope, of which the former is the fee of an arch- bifhop. This is the ifland known to the ancients by the diflvrent names of Corcyra, Pheacia, and Diepane, famous for the fliipwrcck of UlylTcs, and the gardens of Akinous, Ithaca is a fmall ifland, about eight miles in cir- cumference, now called Jathaco ; a ruggrd barren territory, though fo much celebrated as being the kingdom of Ulyd'es. Cephalunia, anciently Cephalenia, lies about eight miles wed of the gulf of Lepanto. It is near fifty miles in circumference, having for its principal towns, Cephaionia, St Nioholas, Catania, and Alio, Zante lies twelve miles fouth of Cephaionia, and is about twenty- four miles long, and near half as much in breadth. The chief town is Zante, fituated in the call part of the ifland, well fortified and defended liy a callle, which Is the refiilcnce of the governor. This ifland is the ancient Zacynthus, and conflitutcd the moll valuable part of the Laeriia regna. The produ.-e of thefe feveral iflands is oil, wax, oranges, grapes, and a variety of other fruits natural to a warm climate ; but Zante Is particularly celebrated for the fruit called currant.<>, which affords the Vene- tians a ronfidcrable article of trade. The inhabitaiiis of thole iflands arc chiefly Greek Chrillians; but the Ver'-ans have alfo introduced the Roman Cathjilc re'' .n . < ng them. Proceeding weflwaru u er Mediterranean, we arrive at the ifland ol .ily, - h is feparated from the fouthermofl poM. 01 -e Itu.'iaii continent only by the ftrait of Me'*" ., 1 > iflind, anciently called Trinaciia, from 'ts ti. ; ;ul,f figure, is fituated be- tween 12 and ih c* -grees of call longitude, and between 37 and 39 degr ^ 1 :h latitude; being about a hundred and eigi. j r ,les long, and a hundred and twelve broad. The refrediing breezes from the fea and the mountains render the temperature of the ifland both plealant and healthful, and the fertility of the foil, which is watered by numerous rivulets, might yet correfpond to the genial nature of the climate; but it is not now fo much ci'liivated as in thofe times when it was called the grarary of Rome. The chief mountains a.e thofe of iEtna, or mount GIbello, Madoni and A''donis, The beft harbour* are thofe of Meflina and Sy.-acufe, on the ealt ; Mclazza and Palermo on the north ; i;id Trapano on the weft. Though the country abounds in fprings and rivulets, few of the rivers arc navigable beyond their mouths, as their courfe from the mountains is precipitate. Mount ^,tna is divided into three diftinift regions, called la Regione Culta, or Piedmontcfe, the fertile region; il Regione Sylvofa, or Nemorofa, the wood region; and il Regione Deferta, or Scoperta, the barren region. Thofe three regions, though contiguous, are yet, in refpciSl both of climate and produfllons, totally different from each other. The Regione Culta, or Piedmontefe, forms a zone round the mountain, a hundred and eighty-three miles in circumference. This region is well watered, and abounds with vines and other fruit-trees. Towns, villages, and inhabitants, are alfo very numerous, notwithftanding the danger of the fituation, Catania, fo often deftroyed by eruptions, and totally overthrown by an earthquake, contains, as is fuppofed, thirty-five ihoufand in- habitants. This region is likewife covered with a number of little conical or fpherical mountain, beau . '■ I 'i 304 T H E MODERN [EuRor^. beautifully divernried both in colour and form. On the Touch and fouth can, it is bounded by the fei, and on the other fiJei by the riven Semetus and Alcantara, which •linoll furround it. In about four houri of gradual afcent from the vrrpc of the mountain, we arrive at a little convent of UeivJiAine monks, called St. Nicnlo dell Arena, near the volcano whence iflurj the great eruption in the year 1669. On thin nccaflon, tlie lava burit out of a vineyard within a mile of St. Nicolo, and by fre- quent expiofions of ftones and alhes, raifed there a mountain, which is fupiiofcd to be not Id's than half a mile perpendicular in height, and in circumference at the bafe three miles. At the font of this mountain is a hole, through which, by means of a rope, we defcend into feveral fubtcrraneous caverns, branching out to a great extent. The cold in thofe regions is faid to be excelEve, and frequrntly a violent wind extinguifhes the torches. Many cavities of this kind ate found alfo in other parts of JEtna, fome o! which are ufed as magazines of fnow ; the whole ifland of Sicily and Malta hemg thence fupplied with this article, fo indifprnfably requifite in a hot climate. The Rcgione Sylvofa, or the fccond divifion of the mountain, which likcvvife furrounJs it on all fides, is incomparably beautiful, abounding in little moun- tains that have been thrown up by the different explo- fions of /Etna. Tlicy are all more or Icfs covered, even within their craters, as well as the rich valleys between them, with the largcft oak, chefnut, and jir- treei that perhaps are any where to be feen. It is chiefly thence that his Sicilian maJeOy's dock-yards are fupplied with timber; for which this part of i^tna was famous even in the time of the tyrants of Syra- cufe. I'hough the trees in this quarter, efpecially the chefnuts, be of an extraordinary fize, they are far inferior to fome which grow on another part of the Kegione Sylvofa, ciilcd Carpinetto. In the place laft mentioned, one tree of this fpecies, called la caflagna di cento cavalli, is faid to meafure in circumference upwards of twenty- eight Neapolitan canes, or fifty- nine yards and a half. This amazing tree is hollow from age; but another flands near it, almofl as large, and which is found. In this part of tho mountain are the fineft horned cattle in Sicily. They are of the common fize, but it may be remarked, that the horns of the Sicilian cattle in general are almofl twice as large as thofe in other countries. Proceeding upwards through the Rcgione Sylvofa, wc arrive at tlie third divifion, or the Regionc Deferta, likcwifc called La Netta, or Scoparta. In approach- ing this diftriit, we perceive a gradual decreafe of vegetation, pafTing from large timber-trees to the fmallcr (hrubs and plants of northern climates. The air here is exceeding cold, and the region is marked by a circle of fnow and ice, which extends on all fides to the diftance of about eight miles. In many places the fnow is covered with a bed of afbes, thrown out of the great crater, which rears its burning head in the center of this divifion. The great crater is about two miles and a half in circumference ; the infide, which ii incrulled with falti and fulphurs, is in the form of an inverted hollow cone, and ii fappofed tu be about a quarter of a mile in depth. Sir William Hamilton informs us, that the fmoak of ^tna, though very fulphureous, did nut appear to him fo foetid as that of Vefuvius ; but this citcum> fiance varies in both thofe mount.iins, according to the quality of the matter which happens to bi: in motion. The air is fo very keen in the whole upper region of ^.ina, particularly in the moft-clevated parta of it, that refpiration is rendered very difficult, inde- ' pendcntly of the fulphureous vapour. The inquifitive naturalifl above mentioned farther informs us, that when he and his company made their firfl obfervation at the foot of Mount i^tna, vi\ the 24th of June, 1769, the quickfilvcr in the barometer flood at twenty-feven degrees four lines; and on the 26th, at the mofl elevated part of the volcano, it was at eighteen degrees ten lines. The thermometer, on the firfl obfervation at the foot of the mountain, was at eighty-four degrees, and on the fccond at the crater at fifty-lix. The weather had not changed in any refpedl thofe two days, and was equally fine and clear. It was found difficult to manage tlic barometer in the extreme cold and high wind on the top of JEtwi ; bat from the moll exaft obfervation that could be tnade in fuch circumllanccs, the rcfult was as has been fpecificd. According to obfervation made by Mr. Brydone, about three hundred yards below lh>: fummit of the mountain, on a fpot where there was no fnow, and a comfortable vapour ifTued, the mercury flood at nineteen degrees and a half. The thermometer was fallen three degrees below the point of coagulation} and before they left the fummit of ^tna, it fell two degrees more, viz. to twenty-feven. The beautiful and extenfivc profpeiS from the fum- mit of i^;na is fuch as exceeds all dcfcription. The whitenefs of the milky way appears like a pure flame (hot acrofs the heavens ; and the number of the flats feems not only to be infinitely increafcd, but their light much greater than ufual. No imagination, fays Mr. Brydone, has dared to form an idea of fo glorious and fo magnificent a fcene. Neither is there on the furface of tliis globe, any one point that unites fo many awful and fublime objecfls. The circumference of the vifiblc horizon on the top of j'Etna is fuppofed to be not lefs than two thoufand miles ; but the moft beau- tiful part of the fcene is certainly the mountain itfelf, the ifland of Sicily, and the numerous iflands lying round it. All thefe feem as if they were brought clofe round the fkirts of ^tna, the diftanccs appearing re- duced to nothing; occafioned, perhaps, by the rays of light paffing from a rarer medium into one more denfe. Tlie perpendicular height of the mountain is faid to be more than three Italian miles. About a mile diftant from the fummit of /Etna are fome remains of the foundation of an ancient building. It is of brick, and fcems to have been ornamented with white marble, many fragments of which are fcattercd about. It is called the Philofopher's Tower, and faid to have been inhabited by Empcdocles. As the SlA.'N,-^.- .v/ //r r A,,/ /C^y^'^///C'Y'/>,/yM fH/ ^ /yY)<9 , Itai,y.J GENERAL TRAVELLER. m Iht inci*n(i ufed to ftcrific* to the cclelh'il irxit on the top of A'.tn», it it probably the ruin of « temple which has frrvcj for that purpofc, Sir VVillum Ihmilton, oji hi> way back to Ctlnnia, w«> (hewn .1 little hill covrreJ with vinri, which, ii ii well itteftcij, W41 undermined by the lava in the year l6b9i aivl iriiiriioried half a mili' Irom the pUcv where it Itood, without hjvini^ diinaj^cd the vines, Till the year 251 of the C'hriflian let.i, the nifiK<.iit in their dwcllingui i^mpcdoclji obfrrviiig of tliem, that they lived to day .> they were to die t) morrow, aud built as if mry were to live for ever. The country round the city was laid out in vine and olive yards, in the produce of which they maintained a great trade with Carthage. Marfalfi, (he ancient Lilybsum, it fituated twenty milc^i north-welt of Mazara. Here the Carthai^iniani ufed to embark tlu'ir truups when they were in pof* feflion of ihit ifland. Trcpano, or Drepanum, it another port-town fituated at the weft end of the illand, fortified by Hamilcar, the father of Uanibal, who made it a place of armi, in his wart with the R'omani. The produce of Sicily is chiefly corn, wine, oil, filk, and fruits, of which their export! are very great. The Lipari Iflands, of which there are fcven, aro fituated in the Mediterranean about forty miles north of Sicily, and fubje£) to the king of Naples. They were anciently called Aloliai and Vulcania from if.olut and Vulcan, whom the poets feigned to have hero their refidence. Lipari, the largefl, is about twenty miles in circumference. The two named Strumboto and HIera are volcanos. At (he Weft end of Sicily lie the fmall iflands of Lcvanzo, Maiitimc, and Favignana, alfo fubjc£i to the fame fovercign. The fird inhabitants of Sicily and the adjacent iflands, according to tradition, were the Cyclops or Leftrigones, n favage race of gijmr'c: tt.ture and appearance. Afterwards the Sicj^ fro, 11 itaiy, and the Phoenicians from Tyre, fucreflivcjy, fcnt hither colonics, which were difpoli'tired by the Grcelfs. The Carthaginians next riJiie fhc-mfclves mailers of a confiderabic part of Sicily, hjt both t'lev ml tlie Greeks being vanquifhed by the Romans, it remained a province of that empire till the invafion of the Goths } from which tinic it iifually followed the fate of Naples, until the mafl'acre of the French by ths natives, in 4 O liSi. ;o6 H E M O u N [KuROPt. i 1182. The country was afterwards occupied by the veifiiy is here cflabliflicd, .iiid the place is alfo the fte Spaniards, who retained it till the year 1707, when it was rendered fubjefl to the Imperialilts, At the peace of Utrecht it was allotted to the duke of Savoy. The Spaniards, however, invading it in 1718, it was by a fubfequent treaty refigncd to the emperor, who of a bifliop, and the refidcnce of the viceroy. The other towns arc, Oriflagiii, Villa d'lglcfia, Satiari, Cailella Arragoncfc, Algari, and hofa, Sardinia is thinly inhabited, and the natives arc an unpoliflicd people. It appears to have received its remained in pofleflion of it eighteen years, when the I firft colonies from the Phccnitians. The Greeks French, Spaniards, and Sardinians, forming an alii- 1 afterwards pofleflcd part of the coun'ry, and credted ance, the crown of Sicily and Naples was confirmed I in It fevcral little ftates; but the Carthaginians were to Don Carlos, the king of Spain's elded fan by his the fird that occupied the whole ill aul, which next fecond queen. fell under the dominion of the Romans upon the com- The ifland of Capri, or C.ipren, is fituate at the j inencemtnt of the Punic war. In the eighth century entrance of the gulf of Naples, three miles weffward it was conquered by the Saracens, who kept poU'ellion of the continent, and twenty fouih of the city of of it feveral hundred years. The Genocfe and Pifans Naples. It is about four miles long and one broad, ■ afierwnrds reduced it to fubjeciloi) ; but the popes, compofed of a rock, which is in many places covered ] who aflumcd an authority of difpofing of fui.h couiitiics with a fruitful foil, and produces corn and a variety of delicious fruits, as figs, almonds, olives, oranges, and vines. It isalmoD unequalled in a delightful tem- perature of the air, being wari'i in winter, and refrcfhed in fummer by (ea- breezes. The town of Caprca is fituated on the weftward of the ifland, where the rock is extremely high. The natural beauty, and happy climate of this Ifland rendered It the favourite retreat of feveral Roman emperors, particularly Tiberius, who made it the fcene of his infamous pleafures. The imperial palace flood chiefly on a rifrng-ground in the middle of the ifland ; but the nioft cohfiderable ruin which remains flands at the eaflern extremity, where may be feen fome lofty apartments, arched over, fup- pofed to have been baths. There were formerly alfo many fubterrancous retirements, which were demolifhed by the Romans after the death of Tiberius, in detef- tation of his memory. The city of Caprea is at prefent the fee of a bifhop. The ifland of Sardinia is fituate in the Mediterranean fea, between 8 and 10 degrees of eaft longitude, and between 39 and 41 degrees of north latitude. Its length from north to fouth is about a hundred and fixty miicj, and its breadth eighty. Towards the north the ifland is mountainous, but in the other parts it is agreeably diverfified with hills and valleys, as well as with woods and champain fields. The chief rivers are, the Sacer, which falls into the bay of Oriftagni, on the weft fide of the ifland ; the Coquines, which runs towards its northern extremity; and the Lcpro, which running in the oppofitc direiElion, difcharges itfelf into the bay of Cagliari, in the fouth-eatl part of the ifland. The air of this country is hot and unhcalihful in fummer ; but the foil, when cultivated, is fruitful, producing corn, wine, and oil. A fpirit of indolence, however, occafioned by a long courfe of opprefllon, is fo predominant among the natives, that they never apply thcmfelves either to agriculture or commerce, any farther than is '.'(Tary to procuie immediate fubfiflence. The capital of Sardinia is Cagliar', fituate on a bay in the fouth part of the ifland, in 9 degrees 14 minutes ead longitude, and 39 degrees 12 minutes as were recovered from the infidtls, m.-idc a grant of the ifland to James II. king of Arragon, who expelling the former invaders, united it to the crown of Spain ; of which monarchy it continued an appendage, till the Britifli fleet put the Auftrians in. pofl'eflioii of i,-, in the year 1708. The conqued was confirmed to the Auifrians by the peace of U'rechtj but Sicily being allotted to the emperor by i fubfequent treaty, Sardinia was, in 1720, refigncd to the duke of Savoy, to whom it gives the title of king. It is computed that the revenues of this ifland do not amount to more than five thoufsnd pounds a year. Corfica is fituated north of Sardinia, from which it is feparated by the flrait of Bonifacio, between 8 and 10 degrees of eaft longitude, and between 41 and 43 degrees of north latitude; being about a hu.idred miles long and forty broad. This ifland, which is almoft furrounded by rocks, is of diflicult accefs. It is generally mountainous, but there are valleys wh!ch produce plenty of corn; nor are they deficient in wine or oil. Sheep and neat cattle are in great numbers} and the breed of horfcs, though not large, are eftcemcd for their handfome (hape. The countiy is well watered with fprings and rivulets, but hardly afibrds any navigable river. Mines of iron, alum, and fait, are met with in difTerent parts of the ifland. The inha- bitants along the coaft are chiefly fifhermen, whofc anceflors were fo much additStcd to piracy, that thence the rovers in the Mediterranean have obtained the name of Corfairs. The chief town is Baflia, fituate in 9 degrees 41 minutes eaft longitude, and 42 d<.-grc:s 35 minutes north latitude, in the north-eaft part of the ifland. The place is defended by a caftlc, and is the fee of a biftiop. The other towns arc, Porto Vcchia, Boni- facio, Aj-zza, Mariana, Accia, Alaria, Corte, Jagonc, Calvi, Nebis, and Fiorenza. Corfica, like the other iflands in the Mediterranean, was planted by colonies from Phoenicia and Greece j after which the Carthaginians, Romans, and i^aracens, fucceflively held poflefllon of it. The Saracens being expelled by the Pifans and Gennefc, the latter of thcfo invaders retained their conqucft for many years, till the natives commenced an infurredtion for the recovery north latit de. The harbour i-. tolerably ^'ood, and the j of their freedom. To fupprefsthis revolt, the Genoe(e trade the greateft of any of the port-towns, A uiii- j had rccourfe to the afliftancc of the Auftrians, and 2 after- Italy.] GENERAL TRAVEL T. ER. 307 afterwards of the French ; but the allies lafl mentioned proving viflorious over the Corficans, who were com- manded by the brave Paoli, the ifland was reduced, in 1769, under obedience to the French crown to which it has fince continued fubjc£l. During the ftruggle of the Corficans for their liberty, they defied for their king a private perfon named Theodore ; but being dcferted by thofe who had fct him up, he left the ifland, and retired to England, where he remained fcveral years a prifoncr for debt i till being difmifled upon an aA of infolvency, he died in great difcrefs in the year 1755. Malta is fituatc in 15 degrees of eafl longitude, and 36 of north latitude, about fixty miles fouth of Cape Faflaro in Sicily. This ifland is twenty miles long and ten broad. It confifls of a white fdl't rock, covered with vegetable earth, which produces corn and wine, but not enough for the confumption of the natives, who are fuppHcd with thofc articles from Sicily. This de- ficiency uf corn, however, is not owing to any barrcn- nefs of the foil, which well dcfervcs the epithet of Fruitful Malta formerly bellowed upon it ; but by the cultivation of other produce, that i? found more pro- fitable. The kitchen gardens are well flocked with herbs and roots of various kinds; and here are planta- tions of olives, figs, oranges, lemons, cotton, and indigo. The mutton and lamb are reputed particularly good; fowls, both wild and tame, arc in great plenty, as is alfo game of all kinds. Here are no foreft-trces nor rivers, but many good fprings and fountains. The capital of the ifland is the city of Malta, or Valetta, confiding of three towns, feparated by chan- nels, which form fo many peninfular rocks, and de- fended by the caftles of St. Elmo, St. Angelo, Civita Vechiu, and 11 Bochero. The Itreetsof the town are fpacious, and the houfes well built of hev/n ftonc, flat roofed, and furrounded with baluflrades. Thofe of the grand matter, and the other chiefs, are elegant palaces. The great church of St. John is a magnificent building, inferior to few in Italy. Here are the tombs of the grand mafte s ; and among other relics is fliewn the right hand of St. John the Baptift:. The other public buildings are the treafury, the hofpital, and the magazine, in which are arms for thirty thoufand men. The ifland contains between thirty and forty villages, and about fifty thoufand inhabitants, the half of which number are military men, and unmarried. Malta was firft planted by the Phoenicians, and has almoft uniformly been fubjeft to the fame matters as Sicily, till the year 1530, when Charles V. con- ferred it on the knights of St. John of Jerufalem, after their c.xpulfion from the ifland of Rhodes by the Turks, The knights of Malta derive their origin from the period immediately fuccceding the commencement of the crufadcs, or holy war, when fome pious people built an hofpital for the entertainment of pilgrims. On the taking of Jerufalem by Godfrey of Bouillon, the order became military, and, inftead of hofpitrdlert, aflumed the title of knights hofpitallers. Having; aflitted in the defence of Palcttinc till the year 1290, when they were expelled that country, they received the proteiSlion of John king of Cyprus, with whom they remained till 1310, when, under the conduit of their grand matter, Foulkes de Villaret, a native of France, they took the ifland of Rhodes from the Saracens ; after which they were ftylcd knights of Rhodes. They maintained the pofleflion of their new conqueft againft all the power of the Saracens and Turks upwards of two hundred years, when abandon- ing it, they retired to the ifle of Candia, or Crete, and afterwards to Sicily, till being prcfented by the emperor with Malta, they fixed their refidence In this ifland. At firft this order of knights confitted of eight dif- ferent nations, but the Englifli withdrawing themfelves at the Reformation, they have fince been reduced to fcven. Each of thofe has a dittindl convent, the head of which is dittinguiOied by the title of graad- prior of his rcfpcftive nation. Every knight, on his admiflion, mutt prove his legitimacy, and his nobility by father and mother for four defcents, except the natural fons of kings and fovereign princes. The grand-priors, or, as they are alfo called, grand -crofles, have commandaries, or cftates, in the refpeftivc nations to which they belong, and they alone are permitted to be candidates for the office of grand-matter. Befidcr the grand -priors or crofles, there are deml- crofies, who are indulged with the privilege of marry- ing. The grand-matter is eleiSed by the grand-priors, and is fubjedl in fpirituals to the pope alone; but the knights have a dependence on the feveral princes in whofe territories their lands are fituated. The grand-matter wears a long cloak on feftivals, and on the left fide, a white crofs with eight points. The knights give him the title of eminence, and his fub- jefls that of highnefs. The knights of Malta are obliged by their vows to fupprefs pirates, and to wage perpetual war with all Mahometan princes. They alfo come under the fame folemn obligation to obfervc celibacy, chaftity, and other virtues ; but though they do not violate the firft of thofe reftraints, they enter- tain great numbers of Grecian women, who ferve them in quality of concubines. SPAIN. 3o5 THE MODERN [EuRopr .1 • .r'.. N. C H A p. I. I I Of tbt fituat'ion—face of the couHtry-^roduce-^air—' ia - mounta'ms^riiHri—bap—'capts. i THE kingdom of Spain is a penrnfula, bounded on the nortli by the Bay of Bifcay, and the Pyrenean mountains ; on the eafi and fouth by the Mediterranean; and on the weft by Portugal and the Atlantic Ocean. It lies between lo degrees of weft and 3 degrees of eaft longitude, and between 36 and 44, degrees of north latitude; extending about fcven hundred miles in length from eaft and weft, and near five hundred in breadth. This country is much incumbered with mountains, the chief of which are the Pyrenees, that divide it from France, and form a range of two hundred miles from the Bay of Bifcay to the Mediterranean Sea. Towards the north, the Cantabrian mountains ftretch from the Pyrenees to the Atlantic; befides which, in the more interior parts, are the mountains of Sierra Molina and Tablada, Sierra Morene, and Sierra Na- vada; and in the fouthern extremity, mount Calpe, oppofite to mount Abila in Africa, which were de- nominated by the ancients the pillars of Hercules. The Spanilh mountains however ge.ierally produce timber and herbage 10 the very top, and the valleys between them, if lufficiently cultivated, might prove exceedinjr fruitful. The wheat of this country is inferior to none of the kind; and though hardly any oats, here is plenty of barley, with which they feed their horfes and mules. The pafturagc being almoft continually In verdure, therj is not the fame neccflity for hay as in colder countries. With variety of excellent vvines, and the common European fruits, Spain abounds in oranges, lemons, citrons, raifms, primes, figs, almonds, pomegranates, olives, chcfnuts, a'-.J capers. The oil, wax, and hon?y, arc reputed to be of the fineft quality, and the foil produces fpontaneoufly many medicinal and odoriferous herbs and flowers, which feldom arrive at perfeftio'i, even with the utmoft care, in more northerly climates. Sugar, faffron, cotton, flax, hemp, pitch, rofin, &c, are alfo produced in great plenty; and filk abounds fo much ihat it may be reckoned the Jlaplc commodity of the nation. With rcfpcdl to animals, the Sp.inilh liorfes have always been held in reputation for fwiftncfs, as are the mules for being llrong and fure-footcd ; on which account the hitter, being well adapted to a mountainous country, arc preferred by the inhabitants for travelling. But they want not good horfes for draught. The wool of their flitcp, no lefs than the Hclh, is univcr- fally cfteemcJ for itc evcellcnce, and the hogs and bacon reckoned equal to thofe of Weftphali;i, Goats, 6 deec, rabbits, hares, fowls, and all kinds of game,^ are plentiful, efpccially in the mountains and fo'efts, while the feas, which almoft furround the country, are well fupplied with fi(h ; but of this the rivers are not plentiful. The ftate of the air is various in different parts of country. Towards the north it is temperate; but in the fouthern provinces, about the fummer folftice, the heat in the valleys is exceflive. The mountains, how- ever, which are always cool, aftbrd an agre?able re- treat in the hotteft feafon ; and thofe paiCs that lie near the coaft are generally refreflicd with qualifying breezes from the fea. It feldom rains in this country, except about the vernal and autumnal equinox, which are almoft the only times that the fun is obfcured by cloudy weather. In the hot feafon moft of the fmall rivers are dried up, and the roads fo dufty as to render travelling difagreeable. But though the valleys be parched in the day, the nights are generally cool, to fuch a degree, however, as not to prove dangerous to the health, which the climate, upon the whole, is calculated rather to preftrvc than impair. Notwithllanding all its natural advantages, Spain is now but poor and thinly peopled. Various reafons may be afligned for this fituation, namely, the celibacy of the clergy, and the great number of both fexca fe« clucicd ill the monafteries; the expulfion of fuch a multitude of Moors and Tews, as happened upwards of two hundred years ago; the wars which the in- habitants maintained during fo many years with moft of the powers of Europe, as well as with Africa and America; and the perpetual drain which is made to fupply their American plantations with men, in the numerous offices to which only natives of Spain are admitted. To thofe various caufcs may be added, the pride and indolence of the people, which, bv re- ihainlng them from laborious employments, diminilhes the means of fuMiftence, and confequcntly the incite- ment to marriage. Spain is divided into fourteen provinces, viz. Galicia, Afturia, Bifcay, Navarre, Arragon, Catalonia, Va- lencia, Murcia, Granada, Andalufia, Eftremadura, Old Caftile, New Caftile, and Leon. The chief rivers are, i. The Douro, anciently Durius, which rifing in theeaftern part of Old Caftile, runs wcftward through that province, and Leon, and, crofling Portugal, fa'ls into the Atlantic Ocean below Oporto. 2. Ebro, the ancient Ibcru?, rifes likewifc in Old Caftile, and running fouth-caft through Arra- gon, falls into the Meditcrraiieaii below Tortofa. 3. Guadalaviar, or Turis, runs Irom Arragon fouth- weft, and difcharges itfelf into the Mediterranean at the city of Valencia. 4. Guadal(|ulvir, anciently Bcetis, runs fouth-weft through Aiidalulia, and falls irto the Atlantic at St. Lucar. 5. Guadiana, formerly ths Anas, Spain.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. i^^ Anas, runs in the fame dire£)ion through New Caftile and Eftremadura, and f.ills into the Atlantic Ocean at Ayamont. 6. Limea runs alfo in the fame dire£tion from Galicia, and difcharges itfelf into a bay of the Atlantic. 7. Minho runs in a parallel courfc with the preceding, through Galicia, and falls likowife into the Atlantic Ocean. 8. Scgura runs caft through Murcia and part of Valencia, and falls into the Medi- terranean, between Carthagena and Alicant. 9, Zucar runs eaftward crofs Valencia, and falls into the Medi- terranean near Gandia. 10. Tajo, formerly the Ta- gus, runs v/eftward through New Caftile and Eftre- madura, and falls into the Atlantic below Lifljon. The chief bays are, the Bay of Bifcay, in the north ; the Groyne, in the north-weft ; the Vigo, in the weft ; thofe of Cadiz and Gibraltar, in the fouth-weft, the bay of Carthagena, in the fouth ; and in the eaft, the buys of Alicant, Altca, Valencia, and Rofes. The chief capes are, the cape of Ortcgal, the moft northern promontory of Spain; Finiftcrrc, the moft wefterly ; Trafalgar, at the entrance of the ftrait of Gibraltar; de Gat, on the fouth-eaft coaft of Granada ; Palos, on the coaft of Murcia; St, Martin, on the coift of Valencia ; with thofe of Palafugah and Creus, on the eaft coaft of Cat Ionia. ; C II A P. II. Of the provinces and thief towns, THE province of Galicia is bounded on the weft and north by the Atlantic Ocean, on the eaft by the province of Leon, and on the fouth by Por- tu<»al. The capifil of this province is Compoftella, or St. lago de C...npoftella, fituate in 7 degrees 17 minutes of weft longitude, and in 42 degrees 54 minutes cf north latitude, two hundred and feventy-fivc miles north-wi'ft of Madrid, and forty fcvcn miles caft of cape Finlfterre. It ftands in a fine plain, cncompafted with hills at fome diftancc, and contains upwards of two thoufand houfes. This place is celebrated for the tomb of St. Jamt-'S the apoftle, who is faid to have planted Chriftiaiiity here, and to have been the fiift mnrtyr In the kingdom. Hither pilgrims refort in great numbers, from all parts of Europe, efpecially in the ycir of jubilee, this inftancc of devotion bcinjj confidcrcd as very meritorious. From this city the knights of St. Jago or St. Jaiircs derive their origin. Thfy arc reckoned the riehcft ordi-r in the kingdom, pollclling no left than cighty-fcvcn commandarics or ertatcs, the revenues of which ani.iiint to a hundred and fevcnty.two thoufand ducats or nobles a year. No perfon can be admitted into this oidcr, without proving his nobility lor two generations, dcfcendcd from the race of old Gothic Chriftians, and that their blood has never bcon polluted with any mi.vture of that of the new Chriftians, or converted Jews and Moors. Compoiiella is the fee of an archbidiop, whofc revenues amount to feveniy thoufand crowns a year, and thofe of the cuapter to as much. The town is No. iC. one of the moft elegant in Spain, and enjoys a flourifh- ing trade, Corunna, or the Groyne, is a port-town in the fame province, fituated on a fine bay of the Atlantic, thirty-feven miles north-caft of Compoftella. Hither the Britifh packet-boat always fails in time of peace. P'crrol is another port-town of this province, fituated alfo on a bay of the Atlantic, twenty miles north-eaft of the Groyne. Here is a good harbour, where the Spanifh fquadron is frequently ftationed in time of war, and whither their privateers carry many of their prizes. Vigo ftands on a bay of the Atlantic, fifty miles fouth of Compoftella. Here is a capacious harbour. Which is llkewife often a ftation of the Spanilh nary. The other towns of note in this province are, Mon- donedo, Lugo, Ortenfe, Tuy, Betanefo, and Riva- davia. At Padron is fliewn a hollow ftone, in the form of a boat, in which they pretend that St. James failed hither from Paleftine, when he came to preach the gofpel in Spain. Afturia is bounded on the north by the bay of Bif- cay, On the eaft by the province of Bifcay, on the fouth by that of Leon, and on the weft by Galicia, The capital of this province is Oviedo, fituatc on the river Afta, fifty miles north of Leon, The town \i the fee of a biftiop, and alfo the feat of an univerfity, 7 he other moft confiderable towns are, Santillane, Avilcs, and St. Vincent. The province of Bifcay is bounded on the north by the bay of Bifcay, on the eaft by Navarre, on the fouth by Old Caftile, and on the weft by Afturia. The chief town is Bilboa, fituated at the mouth of the river Ibaiabal, which forms a good harbour a little below the town. This is one of the beft and moft frequented ports on the north coaft of Spain. The cxportations hfnce confift chiefly of wool, fword- blades, which are much admired, and other manu- faiSures of iron and fteel. The remaining towns of note are, Tolofa, Vittoria, Fontarabia, St. Andero, Laredo, Ordonna, Placentia, St. Sebaftian, and Port Paftage J the two latter of which, being good ports, are frequently the ftation of the Spanifli men of war and cruisers. The province of Navarre is bounded on the north- eaft by the French Navarre, on the fouth-eaft by Arragon, on the fouth-weft by Old Caftile, and by a part of the province of Bifcay on the north-weft. This province is the coldsft of any in Spain, confifting chiefly in pafturage and timber, with fome iron mines. The chief towns arc, Olita, Tudela, Eftella, and Sanguefa. Arragon is bounded on the north by Navarre and the Pyrencan mountains, on the eaft by Cataldnia, on the fouih by Valencia, and on the weft by Old Caftile. The capital of this province is Saragofla, fituated at the confluence nf the rivers Ebro, G.i'lego, and Gueiva. This city is faid to have been founded bv the Phoenicians. 'I'he town is large and well buih, and ihe ftrects are fpacious. Here are many fine cliur>.hcs and convents j but that which is moft 4 U ««le.< Pi 310 THE MODERN celebrated is the church ol our Lady of the Pillar, not fu much on account of its magnificence, as of the chapel bcne.'th it. 7'his clupel is a fubterraneous builJing, thi.'ty-fix foot long, and twenty-fix bro^d, enlightened with lamps and flambeaux, VVithin is the image of the Virgin Mary /landing on a pillar, with " iifile Jcfus in her arms. The fcuipture is enriched With a profuHon of precious (lones, round which is reprefented, in folid filvcr, a numbet of angels, hold- inn; flambeau, in their hands. Bcfulcs thofc, there are about fifty lamps of the fame metal, intermixed with a multitude of figures of legs, arms, heads, and hearts, erected in acknowlcgeincnt of the miraculous cures wrought by the Blcllcd Virgin, all which arc alfo de- corated with gold and precious (lones. Hith r pilgrims refort in great numbers to perform their devotion, The tradition is, that on a fine jafper pillar on this fpot the Virgin appeared to St. James, while he was endeavouring the converfion of the Spaniards, and en- couraged him in his labours. SarJgofl'a is the fee of an archbifhop, and has an univerfity. Here alfo, in tlic palace of the ancient kings, is held the tribunal of the inquifition. The town is furrounded by an old wall, and other antique fortiiications. The other towns in this province are, J.ica, Hucfca, Balballro, Taracona, Albarazin, Tcrvcl, Ainfa, Ca- talagud, and Boria. Catalonia is bounded on the north by the Pyrenean mountains, on the cad and fouth by the Mediterranean, and on the weft by the provinces of Arragon and Va- lencia. The capital ji this province is Barcelona, fituatc in 2 degrees ^ minutes ot eaft longitude, and in 41 degrees 26 minutes of north latitude, in a large plain on the (bore of the Mediterranean, two hundred and fifty milci eaft of Madrid. It is of an oblong form, furiounded by a wall and other modern fortifi- cations, and defended by the caflle of Moiitjoy, l^a^^■ ing on a rock about a mile north-eaft of the city. A hurbour is formed for galleys and finall vcfills by a mole which projefls into the fea ; but the it ,1 is not commodious for large ftiips. Barcelona 1, iliviiicd into tlie New and Old Town, the former lurrounding the latter, and fepaiatcd from it by a wall and ditch. [Europe. to the Blefled Virgin, of whom here m an image, which, according to traditisn, was found in a cave by fomc fhepherds about the year 880. Over this image, Guthred, earl of Barcelona, caufed • monaftcr/ and chapel to be ereAed ; but after rcmaiiiing in this receptacle upwards of fcvcn h indred years, Philip II. and Philip III. invefted it with a magnificent church, inftead of tin former covering. The image, holding in its hand a little Jefus, is now placed upon an altar in this church, which is illuminated with ninety filver lamps; and in the treafury is ihewn a crown of the Blelled Virgin's, valued at a million of florins. Th« convent is inhabited by monks of every nation, who amount to three hundred petfons, including their fervants. All flrangcrs who come hither, out of devo- tion or curiofity, arc entertained gratis for three days; nor is there any place, except Rome or Loretto, to which pilgrims refort in greater numbers. Over the church, towards the top of the mountain, are the cells of thirteen hermits, hewn out of the rock. Thcfe men are generally perfons of quality; who being ur.iry of the world, have retired hither to fpend their inne in folitude and devotion. Adjoining to the cells each hermit has a chapel, a garden, and a fountain fpring- ing out of the rock. Over thofe caves is a ^.aning rock, to which rhey have fixed three crolTes, where they fay '.nafs every day, to implore the I'ltlTed V .^ni, that ;rc will not fu.Ter it to fill upon tin: cliur.- h or cloyfter; partofit havingtumbled down i'* the fi' t ; .ar.ir century, and done confiderktb'e dans^.'. "^hi; niacs undoubtedly affords a delightfu,' foLtuJe,. refcnting the eye with one of the fmeft profpe£ls ,n p world, and charming the ear w- h the foft note;; o, "ds, or the murmuring of fpring." and r v^' -^ wl..';h fall down the locks on every Ade, The other towns of nci.. in tin' province of CaCa- 1 .n;i are, Urgel, Balaguer, Lerida, Tortofa, Gironnc, Ki-.iss, Va!' Cardonna, Golfonna, Puiceda, and Manu'i'n, Yi": piOi>i;i. t Valencia is bounded in die north by A ;>^. .1 aiiu Catalonia, on the eaft and fouth by the Mediterranean, and on the weft by New Caftile and Murcia. The capital is Valencia, .Ituate in The ftiects arc fpacious, well liilt, and neatly paved; 35 minutes weft longitude, and in 3c; degrees jo and there are feveral beautiful fqiiare!, in the chief of ' minutes of north latitude, in a fine plain on the river which, or that of St. M.cliael, all the pr..ici|i.il ftreets j Guadalquivir, about two milcs from the fea coaft. This city, within the walls, contains about twclvi: tbuufand houfcs, elegantly built; and :hc fuburbs are nearly of the fame extent. Kefides a .'ine river, over which there arc five ftone bridges, it is watered by a great number of fountains, and abounds with all kinds of provilions. The inhabitants are remarked to be more have a termination. The moft remarkable publir buildin.;s are the cathedral, the church of our Lady Dwipino, ihe palaces of the viceroy and hllhop, and that where the ftates of the province aftcmble. It is computed that there arc in the city about fifteen thou- ';ird hoiifes. The inhabitants are gencrtilly polit,', K-.tl ,^ail•,'.i•^ a great tr^de in the filk and woolLn ' gay and fociable than in other parts of Spain, and muuui. ' I M--, but p "-titularly in thofc of iron and I the women much addi£ted to gallantry. The niofl (led. A great quaniity of wine, the prodMcc of the ' confulerable public buildings are the cathedral, the nfijibf -linr '•"•in try, is alfo exported from this pljce; viceroy's palace, and that of Cinta, with the monaftcry I'.t '.fan univerfity. i of St. Jerome, the exchange, Mid the arfenal. This •■•i le m ies north-vvcil of liarcc lona I city was once a lloman colony, under the name of liuM.ii of Montferr.it, <■ liich command Colonia Julia Valencia; and there may yet be fcen the wiiolc adjacent country, as fai as feveral remains of antiquity, both in the town and i. is I mountain is a cnapcl dedicated neighbouihdod. It was afietwards the rcfidcnce of 1 the 4!n; .t ■■ I je AIv >-vr '.f.-:.'U .1..- 1..! ■• p o*"; a n. the k- Spain.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 3«* the Moorifli kings. At prefent, it is the fee of an archbifiiop, and has an univerfity. So mild and ge- nial is the temperature of the air in this province, that the country, for twenty miles round, looics like a continued garden, intermixed with numerous towns and villages, in which may be feer crowds of women and children before the houfes, employed in fpinning filk. Near Valencia, about a mile from the coaft, (lands Morviedro, a town w'^ich arofe from the ruins of the ancient Saguntura. This city was famousi for its clay, uf which fine cups were made; and yet more celebrated for its memorable defence againft Hannibal, who, con- trary to the faith ol treaty, had invefted it with his troops ; the inhabitants choofing rather to throw thcm- fclves and their mod valuable cffefls into the flames, than either to forfeit their fidelity to the Romans, or fall a prey into the hands of the enemy. This tranf- aflion occafioned the fccond Punic war, and gave rife to the expreflion of Sa^untina famts, and Saguntina ral/in, to denote famine and rage in the extreme. Alicant is a fmall port-town feventy-five miles fouth of Valencia. It is defended by a caftle which is built upon a high, and almoft inaccelfible rock. The place enjoys a great foreign trade in fruit and wine. The other towns of note are, Villahermofa, Origuela, Segorbc, Xativa, Doni], Gandia, Villarcal, Alcira, and Altea. The province of Murcia is bounded on the north by New Caftile, on the eaft by Valencia and the It/Iediterranean Sea, on the fouth by the fame fca, and on the weft by Granada and Andalufia. This province affords a great quantity of fulphur, and fo much fait, that it is able to fupply all Spain with that commodity. Murcia, the capital, is fituatc in i degree of well longitude, and in 38 degrees of north latitude, on the river Scgura. The town is of confiderablc extent, and is the fee of a blOiop. Carthagciia is fituatcd twenty-five miles fouth of Murcia, .ind enjoys ona of the moft fpacious and commodious harbours in the Mediterranean. This city is faid to li.ive be.-n founded or improved by Han. nibal, who gave it llie name of Carthago Nova, and made it the capital of the Carthaginian dominions in Spain. Having been almoft dcltroyed by the Goths and Vandals, Philip 11. rebuilt it, fince which time it has been ftrongiy fortified, as a place of great im- portance to the nation. The other coni'iderable towns in the province are, Loica, Caravaca, imd Mula. The province of Granada is bounded on the north by Andalufia, on the eaft by Murcia and the Medi- terranean fea, on the fouth by the fjinc fca, and on the weft by Andalufia. The chief town Grenada is fituate in 2 degrees 49 minutes weft longitude, and in 37 degrees ff north latitude; two hundred and twenty- five miles fouth of Madrid. It ftaiids at the conHutnce of the river, Daro and Xcnil, and at the foot of Sierra Novada, or the Snowy Mountain. Here are feveral fpacious lirects and fquares, magnificently built, and inhabited by pcifons of diftind^ion; many of whom have fine gardens and fountains belonging to their houfes. The ancient palace of the Moorifli klng^ 11 a large buildingt faid to contain accomqiodatioti fqt four thoufand perfons. On the out-fide it ha« the appearance of an old caftle, but within is extremely magnificent. The walls are lined witii jafper, por.* phyry, and other beautiful marbles, wi.''cb form* a kind of Mofaic v.'ork, containing nany infcriptionf in Arabic chara£lersi and the cielings are painted and gilded. In the middle is a fpacious court paved witb marble, furrounded with a noble piazsa, over whick is a magnificent gallery. At the four corners of th(S court are feveral n trble fountains, and in the middle one of an uncomr lon fize, adorned with groupee of figures, whence th ; water was conveyed to the bath* in the palace, whi ;h are grand apartments lined with alabafter, and eleg ntly vaulted in the roof Adjoiiiiag to the palace is a fine park and gardens, well fvpplied with fountains, rivjjecs, and ihady groves, which contribute to render th; place a moft delightful retreat in the fummer. The city of Granada is now the fee of an arch« bifbop, -and endowed with an univerfity, which how- ever is one of the moft inc. nfiderable in Spain, The temperature ot the .ir is fo rcmariiably falubrioui, that many valetudinarians refort hither fur the parpo^- 'A recovering their health. The Moors were fo chari. ed with the fituation of the place, that they imagine^ paradife to be in the part of the heavens which is over it. Malaga is fituatcd on the coaft of the Mediterranean, fixty-fix miles north-eaft of Gibraltar, at the foot of a fteep mountain. It is ftrongiy fortified by a douoJe wall and two caftles ; and though neither h'ge dor well well built, yet is very confiderable on account of it^ trade, to which a moft commodious harbou.' rcders it peculiarly adapted. Great numbers of foreign i>>ips refort hither in autun"i every year, particularly '/u'a England and Holland, to load with fruits cil iUiiOii? kinds, as raifins, almonds, figs, oranges, caprs, I'iCt Hence alfo is exported a grea' qu intlty of wii:c, lite produce of the neighbouring country, but v< lit.h has obtained the name cf Malaga, from beiiK; pu; on board at this place. he town of Malaga is d7c fee of a bifhop, fufFrj jf Granada j and the cathedra) an elegant bildini' hly furnifhed and adorned. Near Velez M •,a lie the mountains of Alpuxnrra;,, of confiderable c: t, and inhabited by the ''efcendants of the Moors, .. ao, though they now profefs the Chriftian tcliulon, retain their ancient cul'oms and habit.s, and re by their application to agriculture rendered thi.s .o..ntainous trail one of the moft fruit* ful part.s of the country. The other moft confiderable towns in this province are, AJmcri.i, G aJix, Ronda, Antiquera, Baza, and Loya. The province of A-'dalufia is bounded on the north by Ellrcniadiiraand New Caftile, on the eaft by Murcia, on the fouth by Gianada, the llraits of Gibraltar, aad the Atlantic Oi^ , and on the weft by Portugal, The capital is Seville, fituate in 6 degrees welt longi- tude, and in 37 degrees of north latitude, on the river Guadalquivir, upwards of two hundred miles fouth- w;ft f M IB! 'n ' ^^1 3" THE MODERN titoROPE* weft of Madrldi This city is faiJ to have been founded by the Phanicians, who gave it the name of Hyf^ialis. It is of a circular form, about eight miles in circum- ference. The cathedral, once a Mahometan mofque, and built by the Moors in the tenth century, is a very magnificent ftrudlure. It mcafures four hundred foot oppofite continent form a bay four leagues long, and in moll places two in breadth ; but about the middle are two points of land, one on the continent, and the other on the ifland, fo clofely fituated, that the forts upon them, called the Puntal and Matagorda, command the paflagc. Within thofe points is the liarbour, in length, two hundred foot in breadth, and a hundred which it is impoflible for an enemy to enter without and twenty-eight in height; containing no \eh than fourfcore chapels and altars, where mafs is faid every day. tiefides this there are in the city many other fine churches and monaderies, The town is furrounded with an old wall and antique towers, and the ftrcets narrow, but well built. It is the largeft city in Spain, except Madrid, and computed to contain three hundred thoufand inhabitants. On the fouth fide of the town ftands the royal palace; called Alcazar, the fined part of which was built by the Moors. It is adorned on every front with the imperial eagle, under which is Charles the Fifth's motto, Plus Ultra. The gardens belonging to this palace are exceeding beautiful. The other public buildings in the city are, the palace of the inquifition, the exchange, the India-houfe, the mint, and the colleges belonging to the univerfity, whijh at prefent hov-ver enjoys not the reputation it j'ormerly had. Here is a noble aquediiiSl, which brings wr-.ter to the city from Carnioiui, at the diilance of eighteen miics. The number of hoCnIlals of all kinds is faid to amount to a hundred and twenty, fome of which are very lar^^c and beautiful. In the lail century, while Seville monopolized the trade with Potofi and America, its commerce was extremely flourifliiag i but Cadiz and other fea-ports have fmce made a gieat derivation from it. The traffic however is ftill confi.orable, and the fituation of the place is by the Spaniards efteemed ihe moll: de- lightful in the world. The climate is uoubtlefs the moft agreeable that can be imagined, and the air is perfumed with a variety of fweei Howers and bu (Toms, previoufly being maftcr of the forts. Cadi?, is fuppofcd to contain about five thoufand houfes. It has an cx- tenfive foreign trade; the galleons annually taking in their lading here, and returning hither with the trea- furcs of America, and other rich merchandize. , I'he Phoenicians Hrlt pofl'elled thcmfelves of this illand, and creiSled on it a temple to Hercules, The Carthaginians and Romans were afterwards fucccflivcly mailers of it; and fo great was the trade which it en* joyed in thofe times, that no lefs than five hundred Roman knights refidcd in it at once. The port-town of Gibraltar is fituated on the flrait between tlie Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean, in 4 degrees 53 minutes weft longitude, and 36 degree* 13 minutes of north latitude. It {lands on n rock in a peninfula, at the foot of the celebrated Mount Caipe, which covers it towards the land. On this iide it can only be approached by a very narrow pad'age between the mountain and the fea, crofs which the Spaniards have drawn a line, to prevent the garrifon from having any communication with the country. This place was taken by the confederate fleet under the command of Sir George Rook, in 1704; fince which time the Spaniards have repeatedly attempted to recover it, but without fucccfs. The gnrrifon of Gibraltar is cooped up within • ry narrow limits, the ground which they occupy affording hardly any of the neccfl'aries of life; on which account, in time of war, they are obliged to be fupplied with provifions cither from hngland or the coa'^ of Barbary. As this fort commands the tn- tranct to the Mediterranean, ihe pcfleflion of it is of which nature produces fpontancoufly in al.noft every i the greatelf importance to our trade in thofe parts, feafon. The olivc^ here are the bi .1 in Europe, and I It is ufually garr'foncd by fix regiments, and the grow in the greatelt quantity; there being rot far from governorftilp is reckoned a place of cenfiderable profit. the city a wood of them near twenty miles in cir- cumference. bcvcnty-five miles north-eaft '■' Seville, on the bank of the river Guadalquivir, ftands Cordoua, the ancient Corduba. It is computed to contain fourteen thoufant^ The ftrait tc' which the town gives name, is about twenty. four miles long, and fifteen broad. A ftrong currcnr, which requires a btillc gale toflem, conftantly fct^ through it from the ocean. The other towns of note in this province are, Jaen, families, and has a fleuri(hing trade in wine, filK, and [ Medina Sidonia, Port St. Mary, Ezia, Baeza, OiVuna, leather. Here is an univerfity, and the fee of a bifhop. St. Lucar, Anduxar, Carmona, Alcalareal, l/ucena, This was the feat of the firft Roman colony fent into thofe parts, a.id was furnamed Patricia; iuppofcd 10 have been founded by the firft Marcelius. It was famous of old for its rich produce in oil; nor is it lefs celebrated f'X the birth of the two Senecas, of Lucan, of Martial. Areos, Marchena, Ayamont, Ubeda, and Moguer. The province of New Caftilc is bounded on the north by Old Caftile, on the eaft by \ alcncia, on the fouth by Andalufia and Murcia, and on the weft by Portugal. The capital of the province, and of the whole kingdor.n, is Madrid, fituatc in 4 degrees Th« port of Cadiz, anciently (ladcr, is fituated at 15 minutes weft longitude, and in 40 degrees 30 the iiorth-wsfr end i-f ihe ifland ot Leun, oppofite to : miiiutci of north latitude. It flaiuls alnioll in '.he pO(t St. Mary's on the continent, in 6 degrees 46 > midft i, a large fandy plain, furrounded with h'_!i minutes of weft longitude, and in 36 degrees 25 ! mountains at the diftance of about eight or ten miles, niinutei of north latitude. The iiland on which it i The city is about (even miles in circum'ercncc, witli- ftands ii about e.jhtcen miles long, and li mi nine to . out either wills or fortifications. The flieets arc long two broad; having .' communication with the continent and fpaciou-., but ill paved with fmall Hints, There by a bridge called Pontc Sanora. The ifland with the are in i; .j. ' noble fiiuarcj, the moft magnificent of wlileh Spain.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 3'3 which is the Placa Mayer, in the middle of the town. This fquare contains a hundied and thirty-fix grand houfcs, five (lories high, uniformly built, with bal- conies at every llory, and the whole fuftained by arches and pilaftcr^. This quartsr h inhubittd by fubftantial tradefmen, mercers, draptrs, goldfiiiiths, &c. The great market is held in the middle of the fquare; and ■here are the bull-fights upon daj s of rejoicing. The hniifcs arc built of brick, and the apartments commo- dious auJ ma^jr.ificent ; but the lattice windows con- fiderably diminifh their elegance. The materials of their houfc* being brought from didant provinces, and no navig.iblc ri 'crs to import them, occafions buildinij here to be very cxpcnfivc. Th-Tc are neither courts nor great gatrs before the noblemen's houfes as at Paris, the front of every houfe forming a line with the ftrcet. The firft lloor of every houfe in Madrid belongs to the king, unlffs the builder purchafe it of his majefty, which he generally does. People of diflinftion have a variety of apartments fuited to the different fcafons of the year,, and richly furninicd. Their hangings are of velvet, filk, or tapellry, trimmed with gold and filver lace, or fringe, and adorned with hurts, piflures, glaflls, and japan cabinets, with a vuft profulion of plate and jewels, rich carpets and cufliions to fit upon: but no ciiairs or tables arc feen in the ladies ::part- ments. Here are three grand edifices belonging to the crown, viz. the Palace Royal, the Cafa del Campo, and the Buen Retiro. The firft of thefe, which is the ufual refidence of the court is fituate on an eminence at the end of the town, commanding an i'xtenfive profpeiJi over the adjacent country. Some of ^hc rooms !-> this building have no light but what they receive from the doors; and the reft, having only fmall windows, are very (/ark. T'le Cafa del Campo flands oppofitc to the pre- ceding. Between them runs the river Mancaneres, which forms a large dream when the fnows on the neighbouring mountains are melted, but is hardly vifible in the hot feafon, A grand bridge however is ereiSeJ oicr its channel. The palace of Bucn Retiro is fituated at the other extremity of the town, on the fide of a hill, near the Pardo, a park about three miles in circumference, in which are fcveral detached pavilions, where the officers of the court rcfide when the king comes to divert him- felf in t:ic hot feafon. The groves, parterres, grottos, and cafcades, render this a delightful abode in fummer; and it 15 alfo fupplied with a great number of fountains, one of which is i-j largo that the king faih unon it in a yacht. The nobility have a great mariy palaces in Madrid, inferior only in refpecl of dimtnfions to ihofe of the king. Several fine churches and convents conttihute aJfo to the ornament of this capital. AmongU lic former, that wh^ch Is dedicated to the Blefted Virgin, called cur Lady of Atacha, or the Grove, is the moft magnificent. Here is an image of the Virgin, with the infant Jefus in her arms, to which many miracles are afcribed. She is clothed in a widow's hjbit, except No. 26. on grand feftivals, when flie ii ilmoft covced 'n-ith jewels. To this church the Icing comes to fing 7/ Deum on any fignal viflory. Here are alfo feveral hofpitals, two of which in particular afFord each ac- commodation to fifteen hundred perfons. The numerous towers and large buildings in this capital give it a magnificent appearance, and provifions of all kinds are cheap; but being deftitute of commou fewers, it is extremely ofFenfive, efpecially in fummer { and having neither taverns nor cofi-'ee- houfes, it is little calculated to afford an agreeable reception to ftrangers. Bcfides the royal palaces in Madrid, there are feveral others in the province. One of thofe called the Prado, is about two leagues diftant from the capital ; that of Sarfuala a little farther, and the Efcorial about fix leagues and a half. This palace being dedicated ttJ St. Laurence, who is faid to have bt-en broiled alive on a gridiron, is built in the form of that cui i.t-v in- ftrumcnt, the bars of which form ferefal courts, and the handle is the royal apartments. The whole confiftl of a palace, a church, a convent, and a burial«-place for the fovereigns of Spain. The reprefentations of a gridiron are met with in every part of the building, either fculptured, painted, formed of iron, marble, wood, or ftucco. This is doubtlefs the largeft palace in Europe, though not the moft elegant. The Doric order is that which prevails: it is four ftories high, wholly built of a grey ftone, rcfcmbling granite, but not fo hard. The extent of the principal fronts is fix hundred ^nd fifty-feven foot, and of the others, four hup L ;nd ninety-four. At each of the corners ftands a rr re tower two hundred foot high. It is faid, that in the vhole building, there are four thou- fand windows, and eight thoufand doors. There are three doors in the principal front. Over the grand entrance arc the arms of Spain, carved in ftone ; and u little higher, in a nich, a ftatue of St. Laurence ia a deacon's habit, a gilt gridiron in his right hand, and a book in his left. Direftly over the door is a baflb relievo of two enormous gridirons in ftone. Notwithftanding the great extent of this palace, the royal apartments contain nothing worthy of notice. We are told, however, that in the whole, there are upwards of one thoufand fix hundred pictures in oil colours, exclufive of t'le paintings in frefco, which are alfo very numetoui.. This palace was begun by Philip II. in 1557, and completed in twenty-two years. The great church rcfembles that of St. Peter's at Rome, and is the repofitory of an infinite number of relics, which are held in great veneration. Under this edifice is the Pantheon, fo called from its being built after the model of the Pantheon at Rome, of a round form, and vaulted like a cupola. This is the maufoleum of the Spanifh kmgs of the Auftrian family. In this province are two other royal palaces, viz. Ilde- phonfo and Arangucz; the latter of which has a great reli mblance of Potzdam, and is as much admired for the beauty of its gardens, as the Efcorial for the magnificence of its buildings. The water-works at this place arc called the wonders of Spain, and thought 4 I by 3'4 T n M O D E R N j^EuRopir. n by the natives to be unequalled. Mere are brazen and marble Itaiucs, as at VcrUillc:., I'pouting up water iiidifterent forms, which tails intu balons adorned with groups of figurca of excellent workniunfliip. Moft of the fidioiib of the ancicni. poets arc here re- prcfcnted ; and there arc artificial tu'.-s, tmin every branch and twig of which the wat^i' ijiouit, in the form of a Ihower ot rain. About forty iiiiies to the fouthward of Madrid (lands Toledo, formerly the capital of Spain, and tiio feat of the ancient Gothic and MooriHi kings. It i> fita- ated on a fleep rock, at the foot of whicli runs thu Tagus, encompafliiig it on three fides. The lelt is defended by an old wall and towers, which are liow- ever commanded by fevcral hills. Here arc many grand houfes occupied by people of dirtindlion. This place was once very confiderabie lor its inanufadturos of filk and wool, and Ifill maintains a great trade in the article of Iw i-bladci. The cathedral here is one of the larged Gothic buildings in Europe, and is honoured with the diftindion of always hiving the pope and the king of Spain as its canons. On Chridmas, before the firft vefpers, the names of thofe perfonages are called aloud at the door of the choir; when for not appearing, as they never do, they are muldled in two thoufand maravedis each, a fum nearly equivalent to fixteen fliillings and nine pence. This building (lands in the middle of the city, and has before it a grand court, from which it is entered by eight beautiful brazen doors, through a grand portico. The church is three hundred and eighty foot long, a hundred and ninety-one broad, and a hundred and fcven high. It is fupplied with a number of chapels, which arc richly furnifhed. In that of our lady of Sagrana, is an image of the Virgin, of folid filver, as large as the life, with a golden crown, enriched with diamonds and pearls of an cxtraordinar : fize. The trcafury contains a group of figures, all a. folid gold, where the Virgin, Ittting on a rock of precious (lones, is prefcnting her fon to St. John Baptift, One of the diamonds that form the rock is as large as a pigeon's egg. The lands aliotted for the repair of this cathedral afford the yearly rent of a hundred thoufund crowns. The archbiOiop of Toledo is primate of Spain, and great-chancellor of Caftilc, and is proprietor of feventeen towna, be- fides a great number of villages. Ills revenue is com- puted at three hundred and fifty thoufand crowns a year. In the foiitliern part of this province lies the country of La Mancha, which Cervantes has rendered cele- brated, by making it the fcenc of Don Quixote's Adventures. The remaining towns of note in New Caftile are, Cucnca, Cividad Real, Alcala de Henates, Almanza, Guadalaxara, Brihuef^a, Calatrava, Valena, and Re- quena. The province of Old Caflilc is bounded on the north by Afturia and Bifcay, on the caft by Arragon, on the fouth by New Caftile, and on the weft by Leon, The chief town is Burgos, fituated a hundred •nd feventeen miles north of Madrid. The other places of note arc, Logroanc, CaUhorr.i, Sarra, Olmj, Valladulid, Avili, Signenz.i, Roa, Ar.inda, Calzadj, Nagora, St. Domingo, and Segovi:, At the laft of thole towns is the famous aqueducl, the buildin;; of whii h has been attributed l<> the Goths, to Mereules, the emperor Tr;ij,iii, &e. It conlills of a range of one hundred and eighteen arches, over forty- three of which (lands an t.jual number of others. The gre.iteil height of t!ie liuilJing i.i one huiidreil and two foot. The whole is conipufcd of ftones about three foot long and two foot thick, v\'ithi)ut any morter oi cciiHiitj but thole on the top are joined by cramp- irons. It is doubtlels unc of the iioblcft and moil perfet! i;ionuni«nt» cf antiquity now exiUiiig. Near tlie city Hands the Aleanur, or royal palace, fituatcu 1)11 .i lock, detached by a deep djy ditch front the (own, wiih which it communicates by a firoiig ftone bridge. It was eredcd by the i\loors in the nghth century; was afterwards inhabited by the kini^j uf Callile, and is nov/ ufed for a ftatc prll'oii. Iroia tlie center of the bjilJiiig, which coiifi.ls uf white ftone, a lofty tower rifcs, cnviroiud with mui:y tur« rets; and the roof of the whole is covered with lead. In the roy.ll (alooii, round the wall, arc iil'ty two ftatucs of painted wood, rcpreleiitin;^ a feti.s of the kings and queens of Spain, fitting o'. tl'.rcin.s, and of other eminent pcrlbns, all as large :is tlic life, witli an infcription undcrncaih. The cicling of this ap.!r!- mcnt, and of feveral others, is fo well gilt, that though it probably was done feven centuries ago, it app.-ars quite frefli and new. Here is fhewn the cabinet whcic Alphonfo X. furnamed the Impious and the Wife, compofed his allronomical tables, in 1260. He was here ftruck by liglitning, the marks of which yet ap- pear in the wall. The province of Leon is bounded on the north by Afturia, on the caft by Old Caftile, on the fouth by New Caftile, and on the weft by Gallicia, The chief town is Leon, fituated on the river Efla, a hundred and fixty-fivc miles north-weft of Madrid. This was the capital of the firft Chriftian kings of Spain, fcven of whom are here interred. It is aC prefent a large city, and the fee of a bifliop. The cathedral is cftcemcd one of the moft elegant buildings of the kind in Spain. Salamanca is fituated on the river Tormcs, eighty- eight miles north-weft of Madrid, This place, alio the fee of a bifhop, is famous for its univer- fity, in which are twenty-four colleges, four thou- fand ftudents, and eighty profelTors, who have each a falary of a thoufand crowns a year. The other moft confiderabie towns arc, I'alencia or Placentia, Toro Zamora, Aftorgo, Alva, and Civi- dad Rcdrigo, The province of Eftremadura is bounded on the north by Leon, on the caft by New Caftile, on the fouth by Andalufia, and on the weft by Portugal. This province is now generally reckoned a part of New Caiiile. The chief towns arc, Merida, ii.ida- jox, Placentia, Corra. Truxillo, Lerene, or Eilertnc, Alcantara, and Medelin. CHAP. V; Spain.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 3'5 C H A itr. Of thi ptrfunt of the Spaniards— h'iliit—-charaSitr—,lht —vi/its — divtrftmi —Jotimlling hofpitah — %viiy of traticlling. I N rcfpeil of their perfons, the Spaniards are mode- tlie mo|} uiijuitili.ihlc nm! extravagant. Among the follies ;iiul vices ol the Spaniards, may Xi". ranked their unreafonablc coiminpt of other nations, their priJc ind vanity, their indolence, avarice, libidinous paflions, and inf-itiablc third of revenge. Upon the whole, ihey arc more a grotcfquc tiian a plealin^j people, and ridiculous rather than rcfpci^fahk'. It is tiieir great ratcly tall and thin, their complexion on the olive j miifOrtune that they onveife fo liitle with the rell ot call, th<;ir hair black, their features regular, their tyes lively, and for the inolf pirt likcvvifc black. They (have their beards, but leive muftachios on the upper lip. The women arc generally (lender, and habituate thcinfelves early to acquire and prefervc a genteel (hape. In pai titular, they reckon it a beauty to have little feet, and take much pains to prevent the growth of their breads, by keeping them comprcll: will) plates of lead. Of late years, the habit of the Spaniards has under- gone a great alteration. They have laid alide the fliort cloak, as alfo their rpc6tacles, ruffs, aiid long fwords ; and the only mark of their former gravity confifls in the deep brown colour of the habits of the common people. The Spani(h ladies make no fecret of ufiny; paint, which they lay very thick not only on their faces and hands, but a great way down their backs; and indeed without this artifice, their tawny (boulders, which, by wearing their ftays fo low behind, are much cx- pofed to view, would make a very indifterent appear- ance. They wear feveral garments under their gown, and their coats art of fo great length, that they always trail on the ground. On the top of the (l.iys, l.ulies of rank have a breall-plate of diamonds, to which they hang a chain of pearl, or other precious jewels. They ufe many bracelets round their arms, as well as rings upon their fingers, and fuch weighty pendants in thsir cars, as ftretch them to an unrcalonable length. The Spaniards are (fill remarkable for that gravity of deportment, which has fo long been the charaffe- thc world, and that their ignorance is indulhiouHy encouraged by their priefti, wliofe influence over them is unbounded. Immediately after getting out of bed, it is ufual for perfons of condition to drink a glafs of water cooled with ice or fnow, and afterwards chocolate, which i< now become the morning beverage of almoft all ranks. At dinner the matter of the family fits down to table in a chair; but the women and children fit crofsleggeJ on :' carpet, after the manner of the Moors. Their meaU confill commonly of light food, fuch »s a pigeon or a partridge, an olio or ragou, high feafoned with garlic and pepper, v/hich is fuccccded by a defert of delicious fruits. They feldom eat butter or cheefe, of which thi y have neither in perfe(5lion ; but infteaJ of butter in their fauces, they make ufe of oil. The ladies drink only water, and the gentlemen but very little wine. After dinner they ufually deep two or three hours, during which time the fliops in Madrid are (hut up, and few perfons, except foreigners, are to be met with in the ftreeis. Their fupper i( alfo light, and feldom confifts of any thing more than i. little halh, a ragou, or a tart. This meal as well as their breakfafl, they frequently take in bed. The ufual time for their vilits, as in other hot countries, is the evening. At this time the men meec ' abroad in public places of refort, and the ladies vifit each other at their houfes, where the floors of the apartmcnn arc covered with rich carpets and cufhions of filk or velvet; they yet retaining the cuftom of the Moors of fitting on the floor. They never riflic of the nation. Their moft peculiar endowments I addrcfs one another by any diftinguifhing title ; as, appear to be taciturnity and compofurc, the latter of which is evident in alinoft every aflion of their life. A penfivc kind of dignity uniformly marks their mien your highnefs, your grace, &c. but the title of donna is given to ladies of every rank. Thofe of diftindlion, however, pay their vifits in great flate. They are and air; and their pace is fo extremely flow, .nat at a \ carried in a chair by four men, of whom the two fore- little dilbnce, it is not eafy to difeern whether they 1 moft are uncovered. Two others attend as a guard. move at all. They arc however reputed liberal, fincere, delicate in point of honour, and temperate in the plea- furea of the table. But their underffanding, which in otiier things appears not to be dufedlive, is greatly tarnilhed by the grofl'eft fuperflition and bigotry. They hold thtir prielh in fo much veneration, that they kifs the very hem of their garment, and pay them a degree of rtfpefl little (hort of idolatry. Their regard for the female fex is almofl: equally cnthufiadic. It is common for a well-bred man to approach a lady with his knees bendej, kifling her hands inftead of her liir,; and if (he does him the favour to commend any thing he has, as a watch, a ring, a jewel, or other toy, it would be reckoned extremely unpolite not to piei^nt her with it. This attachment to the fex, however, and a feventh carries a lanthorn. A coach drawn by mules immediately follows, containing her women, and another the i;entlemen of her houlhold, feveral menial fervants walking after. The whole proceflion is very flow, conformably to the gravity of the people. Few coaches, except the king's, are drawn by horfes, though hardly any country afl'ords a finer breed for the purpofe. The ufual phrafe in the Spanifli language on parting with a perfon is, Vaya V. S. cm Dios, ' Miy your worfliip go along with God.' For, ' I thank you,' tlicy fay, Fiva V. S. mil ams. ' May your wo-^Hiip live a thoufiind years;' ti> v/nich the anfwer fometimes is, Peco !>ws m:/(it, ' a li;:le tn ire or lefs.' There ,irc two play-houfes at Madrid, but the en* is accompanied with fuch jealoufy on the fide of the tertainments fo execrable, that they hardly deferve the hulbands, as frequently excites them to a behaviour name. When the ave-bcll rings, as it condantly doe« at d I I ( 1 316 THE MODERN [Klhopf. at fix in the evening, all the «Aori, ai well ai the audience, fall down upon their kneei, in which atti> tude they remain a few minutei. The Spaniard! alfo ufe mafquerading, both on horfcback and foot. They have a peculiar attachment to the game of cheTi, at which they play with great flownefi, it being not un- ufual for a game begun by parent! to be determined by their children 1 and it i! fometime! carried on by letter! between pcrfon» at a dillance. In moft of the capital towns thctc is likewife agreac number of billiard- lablei, at a kind of which, called irucei, and furnilhed with twenty pockets, they play with very large balls, which are to pafs through an iron arch fixed in a certain part of the table. Of all the Spanifli diverfioni, however, the mod remarkable is their bull feafti. On the fpot where any of thofe are exhibited, fcafruldi are previoully credted for the fpedlatori, and the bead! are (hut up in ftalls made as dark as poiTtble, to render them the fiercer on the day of battle. The following defcription of a late bull-f'eaft may fcrve to give an idea of thii entertainment. Every thing being ready, the bulls remained to be driven acrofs the area from the ftables in which they were confinc-d, to a fmaller behind the amphitheatre, where they were to be kept apart from each other. The fird AMe was not far from the amphitheatre, and a wall of boards fix foot high was put up un each fide of the way by which the bulls were to pafs. At a quarter pad four ten bulls were let into the area, in order to be put into the ftables at the oppofite door; a man on foot leading before them a tame ox, which had been bred with bulls, to decoy them into thofe receptacle!. Three combatant! on horfeback placed themfelves at fome diftance, one on each fide of, and the other oppofite to the door at which the bull was to enter. A trumpet was then founded, as a fignal to let in a bull, and the man who opened the door got behind it immediately. During a quarter of an hour preceding this period, the hulls had been teased by pricking them in the backs. This is done by perfons placed on the cieling of the ftables, which was low, and conlhuiHed in in fuch a manner as to afford convenience for the operation, The bulls were diftinguifhed by a fmall knot of ribbon fixed to their (houlders. The bull made dire£)ly at the firft horfeman, who received it on the point of his fpear, held in the middle tight to his fide, and pafTing under his armpit. This weapon making a wide gafh in the bull's (houlder, occafioned it to draw back, the blood in the mean time rufhing out in a torrent. The force with which the bull attacked the man was To great, that the fhock had nearly overfet both him and his horfe. A frefh bull now entered the amphitheatre where it ftared .ibout, frighted by the clapping and hallooing of the multitude. It then ran fucceffively againll the other two combatants on horfcback, and from each received a deep wound. A fignal w;ii now given with the trumpet for tlie horfemcn to retire ; and the men on foot began their attack, who ftruck barbed datts into every part of tlic aiiiiiiiirs body. I'lie trumpet again founding, the matador appeared, carrying in hii left hand a cloak extended on .1 fhort Iticlc, and in his right a iwo-ed^cd Iwurd, the blade of whicli wai flat, four inche! broad, and a yard long. At the moment when the bull made futioully at liim, lis plunged his fword into its neck huhind the horns, by which it inftantly fell down dead. If the matador mifTcs bis aim, and c.mnot deft-nd himfclf with the cloak, he is almofl fure to lofu his iifi.-, as the cxal'pe- rated animal exerts its remaining (Irength willi almofl inconceivable fury. The dead iicill was iniincJiately dragged out of the area by tlircc horfcs on a full gallop, whofe traces were faflcncd to iu horns. Another bull was then let in, more futious than the former. The horfeman mifl'cd his aim, and the bull thruft it* horns into the horfe's belly. The latter be- coming ungovernable, the rider was obliged to dil« mount .-ind abandon it to the bull, which purfued it round the area, till at lalt the horfe fell, and expired. Four other horfes were fucceffively killed by this bull, which only received flight wounds, till the lafi of the horfes had kicked its jaw to pieces. One of the horfe< men broke his fpear in the bull's neck, and the horfe and rider fell to (he ground, when the latter breaking his leg, was carried off. The footmen then fet to work again, and afterwards the matador put an end to the life of the animal. The third bull killed two horfes by goring them in the belly. The feventh like- wife the fame number. In this manner were ten bulls inafTacred, and the fpeflacle concluded in two hours and a half. The bulls flefh was immediately fold to the populace at ten quartos per pound, which amounts to about three pence. The Romans were not more dclij^hteJ with th" combats of gladiators and wild beafts, than the Spa- niards are with thofe entertainments, whicii arc how- ever, of late years, became far Ids frequent than formerly. Another divcrfion almoft peculiar to the people of this nation, is that of ferenading their miflrefFes. It is performed cither with vocal or inllrumenial mufic, the latter of which is extremely rude. In this amufe» ment, however, there is hardly a young fellow who fpends not the bcft part of the night, though perhaps almoft utterly unacquainted with the lady to whom the compliment is paid. Gallantry among the Spaniards is univerfally ac- companied with a tafie for dancing, which is one of the ruling pafTions of this people. Of thefc the moft favourite entertainments are the J'rfquedillas and the fandango. The former rcfcmblcs our hay\ and the latter is remarkable for the lafcivious motions and geflurcs with which it is ufually performed. In every large city in Spain there is a foundling- hofpital, into which alt children are readily admitted; not only fuch as are illegitimate, but llkewife thofe belonging to the lower clafs of tradefmcn who have larger families than they can fupport. Whin the parents choofe to claim the child, they may have it again on dcfcribing it. In performing a long journey the Spaniards com- monly make ufe of mules or litters, thofe animals being 11^ J J. U.I ■ rtMta il» I I V-iiiiiiiii-ili m^---^ JbL^ -.A. '-/5;<«if— -■ ^:^^,^- ■i K I22f^ ^^^^^^^^Vnil^^H jSEZS m •^uiatr L^fek^ J^A.**--^ 1 / A,'//" ("/ z^,'' f ///, 7'; /'//> '_ -/^//"'/r/ f-wno i»-nere nerer crownea, tares an oatti ■t his inauguration to maintain the rights and privi* leges of the kingdom } while, on the other hand, the cortes, who arc convened on the occafion, acicnowiegc his royal authority. The affairs of government are conduced by fevcral councils or tribunals, fome of which are fovereign courts, and others fubaltern. Of the former kind are the cabinet-council, or junta) the council of ftatcj the council of war; the council of Caftilcj the cham- ber of Caftile ; the council of the Indies; the council of finances; the council of Navarre; the councils of buildings and forcfls; and the chanceries of Valladolid and Grenada, The fubaltern tribunals are the junta, or council for lodging or quartering all perfons lielonging to the court; the council of the alcaides of the palace; the audiences of Galicia, Seville, Arragon, Valencia, Catalonia, Majorca, and the Caiiarits; with the jurif- didlion of the corrigiJors, rigidors, vi^utrs, and alcaides. The viceroyalilei arc thole of Navarre, Arragon, Valencia, Catalonia, Majorca, I'cru, and Mexico. The captains-general r.rc tliolc of And ilufia, Gui- pufcoa, Kftramadura, and the Canaries, with, thofc of the Indies, The court, or council of Caflilc, is tlic lii^'heft court of juilic.i'.Uic ill tlic kiii-dom, niiJ dtteniiincs No. 27. where the matter in difpute docs not exceed ten thou-" fand maravedis; but where it does, the parties may appeal to the fovereign tribunal : and in criminal rnfes, there lies an appeal in fcntences of dcatli, mutilation, or ten years banifhmcnt. The governor, or his lieutenant, with certain mem- bers of the court of audience, have power to vifit the feveral alcaids arid inferior judges in their province ; to examine their conduiSf, and ^Jy *%,^* ^ Photographic Sciences Corporalion 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80 (716) 877-4S03 ) 4. H M R M. I T7 ir n «> dri Jet in-vrntri imit the mm who opened the door got behind it immediately. During ■ quarter o( an hour preceding thi« period, the hullt had been teaud bj priclcing them in the b&cki. Thii is done by perfont placed on the cieling of the fiables, which wai low, and conftrudled in in fuch a manner at to aflPord convenience for the operation. The bulli were diftinguiflied by a fmall Ici^ot of ribbon fij(ed to their fhouldert. The bull made direAly at the firfi botfeman, who received it on the point of hit fpear, held in the middle tight to his fide, and pr.ffing under his armpit. Thit weapon making a wid: gaih in the bull't Ihoulder, occafioned it to draw back, the blood in the mean time ru(hing out in a torrent. The force with which the bull attacked the man wat fo great, that the thock had nearly overfet both him and hit horfc. A frelh bull now entered- the amphitheatre where it ftared about, frighted by the clapping and hallooing of the roultitud.-. It then ran fucceiBveiy againll the other two combatants on horfeback, and from each received a deep wound. A fignal was now given with the trumpet for the horfemen to retire ; and the men on foot began their attack, who ftruck barbed dattt into every pact of (he aniniar* body. Tlie trumpet 4 formerly. ~-^ — -- Another diverfion almoft peculiar to the people of thit nation, is that of ferenading their miftrelTes, It is performed either with vocal or inftiumental mufic, the latter of which is extremely rude. In this amufe* ment, however, there is hardly a young fellow who fpends not the beft part of the night, though perhaps almoft utterly unacquainted with the lady to whom the compliment is paid. Gallantry among the Spaniards it univerfally ac> ccmpanied with a tafie for dancing, which is one of the ruling paflions of this people. Of thefe the moft favourite entertainments are the fifqutiHlki and the fendangt. The former refembles our bayi and the latter is remarkable for the lafcivious motions and geftures with which it is ufually performed. In every large city in Spain there is a foundling-' hofpital, ir.to which all children are readily admitted ; no^ only fuch as are illegitimate, but likewife thofe belongir g to the lower clafs of tradefmen who have larger families than they can fupport. When the patents choofe to claim the child, they may have it again on defcribing it. In performing a long journey the Spaniards com> monly make ufe of mules or littcri, thofe animals being Spaiv.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 3'7 pie of t. It nufic, mufe» who srbaps whom idlingo nitted t I thofo o have r.n the liave it i com* ■nimals being being found the moft ufeful in travelling over the mounuinous parts. In plain roadii however, thejr frequently travel in coaches drawn by foiir or fix mulet. It is ufual to carry with them a good ftore of proviftons, fuch as hami and tongues, the enter- tainment at the inns being very bad. In thofe placet lodging is generally worTe. The whole kingdom is over-run with French knife- grinders, tinkers, and pedlars, who colled much money by cxercifing their trades. Beggars likewife fwarm in every part of the kingdom, and are fo infolenC as to intrude themfelvM even into coflfee- houfei. CHAP. IV. 0/ thi gtvtrnmtnl—Htbilily-^tvtHutt—pepiilalioH'— foras—riligion—mquifiiitn — prttlJluni audftjlivah -"ictltfiajiical gtvernnunt-'—Uariimg—ttiM. ACCORDING to the ancient conftitution of Spain, almoft every province enjoyed the right of being governed by laws of their own framing, and the princes could not raife any taxes without their confent. The ftates, or legiflative aflembly of the provinces, otherwife called cortes, confided of the clergy, nobilicyi and commons, of which the latter, in general, feems to have been nuch the leaft numerous. At prefent, however, the cortes are aflembled only upon particular occafions -, as when they tak* the oaths to the prince of the Afturias, or when the Aic- ceffion of the crown is limiud according to treaties with foreign princes. During the more early periods of the Spanifli monarchy, the crown appears to have been ele£tive, •s well as its prerogatives limited, though it has fince become not only abfolute but hereditary, and defccniis to females, in default of heirs raalct The fovereign, however, who is here never crowned, takes an oath at his inauguration to maintain tht rights and privi- leges of the kingdom i while, on the other hand, the cortes, who are convened on the occafion, acknowlege his royal authority. The affairs of government are conduced by fevcral councils or tribunals, fome of which are fovereign courts, and others fubaltern. Of the former kind are the cabinet-council, or junta j the council of ftatej the council of war; the council of Caftilei the cham- ber of Caftile ; the council of the Indies j the council of finances ; the council of Navarre ; the councils of buildings and forefts i and the chanceries of Valladolid and Grenada, The fubaltern tribunals are the junta, or council for lodging or quartering all perfons belonging to the court} the council of the alcaides of the palace; the audiences of Gallcia, Seville, Arragon, Valencia, Catalonia, Majorca, and the Canaries ; with the jurif- didion of thecorrigidors, rigidors, vigiiers, and alcaides. The viceroyaltici are thofe of Navarre, Arragon, Valencia, Catalonia, Majorca, Peru, and Mexico. The captains-general are thofe of Andilufia, Gui- pufcoa, Kftramadura, and the Canaries, with thofe of the Indieii. The court, or council of Caftile, is the higheft court of judicitutc in the kingdom, and determines N». ay. appeals from' 'inferior court's within its jurifdiiSion. They are alfo a kind'bf cou. cil of ftate for that par- ticular province. The council of the chamber of Ciiftile are coniulted by bis majefty, in all his grants of honours, ofSces, and preferments, ecclefiadical and temporal j and all pardons and other graces pafs this court. The council of Navarre inllittited to determine all matters relating to that kingdom, having laws and ^cuftoms peculiar to themfelves. When the inhabitants fubmitted to Ferdinand the Catholic, it was ftipulnted; that they fliould not be fubje£l to the laws of Cafliie:' but this regulation has of late been violated in man^ infiances, and the court of Spain is now as abfolutd here as in other parts. The chanceries of Valladolid and Grenada wer^ eftablilhed to eafe the council of Caftile, and that the fubjefis in thoTe parts of Spain might not be obligee! to travel fo far as Madrid for juftice, when they found themfelves under a necelBty of appealing from the In- ferior courts. The court of ali:aids of the palace has the jurif- diAion of all caufes, civil and criminal, within thci verge of the cocs not exceed ten thou-> fand maravcdis; but where it does, the {larties may appeal to the fovereign tribunal: and in criminal cafes, there lies an appeal in fcntfcnces of death, mutilation, or ten years banifhment. The governor, or his litiutehant, with certain mem- bers of the court of audience, have power to vifit th6 feveral alcaids arid inferior judges in their province { to examine their condufl, and difplace and punilh them for mal-adminiftration. But this praflice h now almoft difufed, to the great prejudice of the people, who are expofed to the extortions of the ordinary alcaids. With refpeA to the inferior judges and magiftrates, vis. corrigidors, rigidors, alcaids, baililFs, and vigurrs, they feem tf> differ little in the nature of their office, but receive difFerent appella'ions, according to the dignity or extent of the place in which they excrcife their jurifdiAions. The viceroy and captain -general have the command of all the forces in the province of whicli ihey arc refpeAively governors, and prefide in all tribunals within their feveral jurifdiAions. I'hey have the nomination of many officers, civil and military; and all officers of cither clufs are refponfiblc for tlieir con- duAi as are alfo the governors of towns and places within their refpcflive provinces. 4 K The 3ii THE M O D: E R N t • \ ''I < i ■ r The king of Sp«!n, to his other titlei, adds thu of doo, u the moft noble and emphatic term in their language, being derived from the word dominut, figoi* fying lord. Hi* eldeft fon ia called prince of the Afturia*, the people of this province having given, the Arft blow to the empire of the Moors, and on (hat ac- count cfteemed the moft honourable in Spain. When he is proclaimed, the clergy, nobility, and the other •ftate of each province are afTcmbled, and take an oath of fidelity, promifing to obey him as king, after the death of the reigning prince. The younger font of Spain are called infants, and the princeflfes infantas ; but when there is only one daugliter, and no fon, (he is called infant as a male. The nobility are generally called hidalgos, a word cxprrffing, that chey are defcended from the ancient Goths. They are either dukes, marquifcs, or counts ; %ut thofe who are ftyled grandees, of whatever order •f nobility, are reckoned the moft honourable. There are three orders of grandees in the kingdom, vis. thofe who have the honour only for life, thofe in whofe families it is hereditary, and thofe who have received it from their anceftors from time immemorial. Perf.>ns of the firft clafs are allowed to be covered before they fpeak to the king ; thofe of the fecond do not put on their hats till they b^ve fpokcn, and thofe of the third not till they have received their anfwer. Notwitbftanding the privilege of being covered before the king, it is underftood, that they are not to take fuch a liberty without his majefty's immediate defire. The king, in writing to any of them, ftyles him prince or coufin-german, and gives him the title of illuftrious( the queen likewife addreffing their wives in the fame manner. Perfons of this rank have the privilege of being drawn by four horfes or mules in Madrid ; while others have only a pair of horfes in their coaches, except on a journey to the country, when every one is allowed to travel with as many as he pleafes, I'he king and ambalTadors have iix horfes in their coaches in town. The title given » grandee, in fpeaking to him, or of him, is that of eminence. The nobility are very numerous, and have farge revenues, but fo great is their expence in jewels, and magnificent furniture, that moft- of them are exceeding poor. The knights of the feveral military orders are aifo reckoned among the nobility. They were indituted during Che long wars between the Spaniards and the Moors, as an encouragement to valour, and had eftates annexed, confifiing chiefly of towns and territories taken from the infidels. Ia thofe times, the knighcs took vows of celibacy, &c. as do at prefent the knights of Malta; but through the indulgence of the pope, they are now exempted from i this reftriiSiion. The three orders arc, that of St. James, , called the Rich; that of Alcantara, called the Noble j and that of CaUlrava, the Gallant. tij^' ■' Spain is at prefent the moft extenfive monarchy in the world. Befidcs its territories iu Europe, the crown poflcflcs in America a faifl of contiguoun province!, upwards of fix thoufand miles in length from foulh to nctth. Ill Afia it has the fovcreigmy of the rich and iiiinieruus illand:i, caik-d the I'hilippinesi and on the [EUROPK. coaft of Africa, has the fettlcmenti of Ceuta, Oran^ and feveral other place* of importance. Not with - ftanding thefe immcnfc acquifitions, however, it ha* greatly declined in length fince tlie difcovcry of Aotetica, on account of the vaft number of inhabitant* that have emigrated thither, and the cffeSt of the trea- fure thence imported in diniinifliing the inJuftry of the people. At the beginning of the prefent century, it was computed that the royal revenues did not exceed fix millions ftcrling, but they arc much improved fince that time, though it be diflicult to afcertain their amount with any degree of prccifion, Hiftory aflures us, that in the time of Julius Cxfar, there were in Spain no lefs than fifty millions of fouls. Before the difcovery of America, in 1492, the number was computed at twenty millions. This difcovery, however, drained the kingdom of almoft half its in- habitants; to which national lofs was added the ex- pulfion of a million of Moors, in the fjme year, with another million in i&io and 1612. At prefent, i. is computed, that the number of perfons who are of age to receive the facraments, is fix millions three hundred and fifty thoufand one hundred and ninety-fix; buc in this computation there are included fixty-feven thou- fand feven. hundred and fcventy-feven monks, and thirty-four thoufand fix hundred and fifty-one nuns} which form together a body of one millior. two thou- tand four hundred and twenty>eight perfons, who are a ufelei's burden upon the ftate. Including children, it is probable, that the whole inhabitants of the king- dom do not amount, by feveral millions, to the number at which they were rated in the beginning of the laft century; an evident proof of the declining ftate of this once powerful monarchy. The military eftabliihment of Spain in time of peace, has been for feveral years about forty thoufand men, and it is probable that in war the forces are increafcd to three times this number. Their navy is alfo now become fo refpefiable, that if not the third in point of ftrength, they may be reckoited at leaft the fourth maritime power in Europe, The Spaniard* are of the Roman Catholic religion; and, though it appears that they were flow in acknow- U'ging the fuprcmacy of the pope, as well as in receiv< ing the peculiar doflrincs of that church, they have for many ages been its moft violent abettors, and even faerificed humanity in fupport of the papal power. In the year 1557, the court of inquifition was firft eftab- liihed in this kingdom, with the view of preventing; the new converted Jsws and Moors from relapfing into their former infidelity. This horrible feat of ccclefiaf- tical tyranny is dignified with the title of the holy office, and the holy houfc. It confifti of an inquifitor.* general, the fuprcme council, inquifitors, adeflor!', qualificators, a fccretarv, an advocate fifcal, a irea- furcr, familiars, and jailors. 'I'he inqulfitar general Is nominated by the kin?, and confirmed by the pope, ia the quality of whofe delegate he is confidereil. His iurifdii^iion is fo abfolutc ani! extenfive, that no Cubject is ixcmp'ed from it. The members of the fupreme court or council, who are arc all named by him, approved by the king befuro they can id>, and are ufually fecuLir priclts; their afTclTots, with whom they advif.-, bi-in;; divine , Spain.] GENERAL TRAVELLER.' 31J divinM, c!viliani| and canonifts. ThequaliRcatoriare employed in Kvifing and altering books that are pub- liflied, and are ufually Dominican friart. The fecre- tary executes the office of a regifter; and the advocate fifcal that of the attorney or profecutor. The treafurer receives into his cuftody ail the prifoner'a goods, and pcrfonal ellate, when he is appreliended ; and the familiars are properly the bailifTs belonging to the office. In the number of the latter, however, it is common for the nobility and perfons of diftin£iion to enter themfelves, this nominal office ferving as a pro- tedlion againft the civil magiftrate, and entitling them to the fame plenary indulgences as perfons engaged in a crufade againft infidels and enemies of the Chrillian church. It is computed that in Spain alone, the number of thofe titular familiars amounts to upwards of twenty thoufand. This court excrcifes its jurifdi£lion in a fummary way, on an information prefented by any perfon of whatever rank or character. If the informer names any witnelTes befldes himfelf, they are fent for privately, and before examination take an oath not to difclofe to any perfon their having been with the inquifttors, nor to fpeak of any thing they faid, faw, or heard within that court. All perfons, though ever fo infamous, and though they ftand convicted of perjury, are ad- mitted by the inquilition to be witnefTes. The depofitions of the informer and witneiTes, when fuch there arc, being thus privately taken, a familiar is fent for, to arrcft the perfon accufed. The unfor- tunate prifoner is conduced with great fecrefy, as foon as poflible, to his deftined manfion, whirh is a dark cell, without any other furniture but a hard quilt, and a pot for the neceffities of nature. He is not permitted to fee any perfon except the keeper, who brings him his diet, and wichit a lighted lamp, which burns about half an hour. Nor muft the keeper, without leave of the inquifitors, maintain any difcourfe with him. Having fpent two or three days in this melancholy fituation, the prifoner is carried before the inquifitors, when, after taking an oath that he (hall return true anfwers to all their interrogatories, and confefs if he has been guilty of any herefy, they proceed to exami- nation. The iird: queHion afkeJ is, whether he knows the rcafon of his commitment? If he anfwers in the negative, they next a(k. Whether he knows for what crimes the inquifition ufcd to imprifon peopled If he replies, for herefy, he is admoniflied upon the oath he has taken, to confefs all his hcredcs, and to difcover all his teachers and accomplices. Should he deny that he ever held either any heretical opinion, or any com- munication with heretics, he is told, that the holy office never ufed to imprifon people rafhiy, and there- fore he would do well to confefs his guilt. If the ptifoncr pcrfift in declaring his innocence, he is re- manded batic to tlic dungeon, with an admonition to examine hii confciencc, iliat the next time they fend for him, he may be prepared to m.ike a full con- feflion of aM liis herefics, tc.i.hcrs, and accomplices After an iiucrval of two or three days, he is again bruujh: to the bar, and alkej, Whtllier he comes 7 prepared to confefi ? If he anfwtri, that he cannot^ without accufing himfelf and otbcn falfciy, make my fuch confeffion as thtfy defire of him, he ii again re-> mande ' to confinement, with the injunAion of praying to God for grace to difpofe him to make a true and full confeffion, to the faving of his foul, which they pretend is the only object they have in view. After an interval of the fame duration as the former, he is brought befora them the third time, when, if he ilill maintains hia innocence, they tell him that they will order their advocate-fifcal to profecute him for hia herefles. This profecution, however, is ufually preceded by the tor- ture. A day being fixed for thii purpofe, he is led to the rack, attended by an inquifltor and a public notary, who is to write down the anfwers extorted from him. During the time the executioner is making preparationa for the approaching fcene of horror, and is taking oiF the prifoner'a cloaths to his (birt and drawers, the in- quifltor conftantly exhorts the unhappy viclim to have compaffion on his body and foul, by making a true and full confeffion of all his'herefles. All thefe ex- hortations proving ineffefiual to extort a confeffion of herefies, that never were imagined by the accufed perfon, the executioner is commanded to ufe the torture. This tremendous fcene begini with twilling a fmall cord hard about the prifoner'a naked arms, and hoill- ing him up from the ground by means of an engine. While hanging in this (ituation, he is violently Oiaken for about an hour, and afterwards let fall with a jirk, which commonly disjoints his arms. He is then car- ried back to the prifon, where a furgeon is ready to reduce his diflocated bones. This dreadful procefs is ufually repeated two or three times, if nature can fup- port fo long under the violence of the torture. If the prifoner fliould make the deflred confeffion otf the rack, it is written down by the notary, and carried to him in a day or two to be figned, which if he re- fufes to ratify, upon the principle of its having been extorted from him by the extremity of pain, he is again brought to the rack to oblige him to compliance; and ' it is difficult for any perfon who is accufed of herefy by the inquifition to efcape this terrible engine. When a perfon is convicted of herefy, either by hit own extorted confeffion, or the evidence of any witnefs, a fcene of yet greater horror enfues, but which delivers the miferable vidim from the power of his inhuman tormentors. This terrible cataftrophe is being con- fumed in the flames. Ori the day appointed for the execution, the convift is loaded with chains in the prefence of the inquifitori, and after being carried to the fecular jail, is brought before the lord chief juftice of the kingdom^ who, without knowing any thing particular of his accufation, or the evidence produced againft him, afks him in what religion he intends to die. If he anfwers, in the communion of the Romilh cliurch, he is condemned to be firft ftrangied and af.erwards burnt to aflies. But if he rcfolvcs to die in any other faith, he is fentenced to be burnt alive. He Is then immediately carried to the place of execu- tion, where he is f;ated on a fmall board near the top of a ftuke which is Bxed in the ground, and about four yards high. After being chained to the ftake. s«^ THE MODERN [EOKOPE. h« it, bjr the ccdeCiflict Attendini; the execution, tonfigncd to the dev>., who they tell him it ftanding at hif elbow, to condu£l hit foul to hell. Thit dreadful declaration it accompanied with a fliout of the fpcAaton, who repeat with a loud voice, Lii th* i»£t itard b* mad*. This ceremony confifti in apply- ing flaming furse to bit face, till it be burned aa black u a coali the favage multitude all the while tedifying their applauf* by the loudeft acclamations. The furze at the bottom of the (lake it then fet on fire, by 'vhich the body it ufually confumed in left than thirty minutes { but In fome cafes, the anguifii of the fuiFerert has been protraAed for almoft two hours. Such are the tranfa£lions of the court of inquiCtlon, a tribunal the moft odious, oppreffive, and infernal that ever was inftituted, and which, under the pretence of maintaining religion, hat deliberately exercifed fuch (hocking baibaritiei, as remain unequalled in the darkeft ages of the pagan world. This difgraceful tribunal has for fome years paft been difufed, but it is not abrogated ; only its fentence cannot be carried into execution without the royal authority. The fupcrftition of the Spaniards is correfpondcnt to their extreme veneration for the priefthood, and that patient fubmiffion, which they have fo I >ng maintained under the rigor of ecclcfiaftical tyranny. Penances they confider as fo meritorious, as even to fuperfede the performance of religious and moral duties. In the holy week before Eafter, they praflife great aufteritles. Some will procure themfelves to be faf- tened to a croft in their fliirts, with their arms ex- tended in imitation of our Saviour, uttering all the while the moft difmal groan* and lanKntations ; and others will walk bare-foot over rocks and mountains to fome diftant (krine, to perform their devotions. Solemn procef&ons are alfo frequent amongft them, the moft eonfiderable of which is on Good-Friday, when all the religious orders attend, with the members of the feveral tribunals, councils, and companies of tradefmen of their cities, and fometimes the king in perfon, with wax-torches in their hands. The nobi> lity and perfons of diftiniSlion are followed by their fervants with lighted flambeavx. The royal guards have their armi and drums covered with black, and beat a dead march, as at the funeral of fonte military commander. Trumpets and other mulical inftrumentt found difmally, and all the colours and crolTet are covered with black crape. Machines and pageants are ercAed, on which all the parts of our Saviour's pafiion are reprefented. It is not uncommon in thofe procelTions for perfons to lafli and cut themfelves un- mercifully, in the hope of attaining the favour of Heaven ; and others, it is affirmed, exercife the fame violence, to fliew their paffion for their miftrefTcsi all the ladies in the place ftanding in the balconies to fee the proceflion. On great fcftivals and rejoicing days the fccnc is very different. Then ihey expofe the rich (hrines, and all the trcafures of their churches to public view. All are dred in their beft habits, and people play upon mullcal inllruments, daticing at the fame time in proccflions, and befurc their images. Dut here likewifv,iii the hotteft weather, ini when (he (ky it unclouded, they carry in their hands lighted torches, which, added to the ii»« fluence of the fun, renders the fituation of the fuper- ftitious croud extremely diftrefsful. The balconie* and windows are hung with tapeftry, &c. and th« ladies diifTcd in their richeft cloaths and jewels, are permitted to view the proceflion without a Itttiea before them. On thrifc occafions, the inamoratos of both Icxea have an opportunity of (hewing themfelves, and dif- covering their paffion to the greaieft advantage; nor is it a groundlefs allegation, that many in tliulc coun- ^ tries frequent their churches aad proceflions chiefly to have an opportunity of carrying on their amours. Their fcftivals ufually conclude with a play wretch- edly performed, containing a reprefeotation of the life and aAions of fome real or pretended fainti, recorded in their legends ; and in thofe theatrical exhibitions, which feem calculated rather to ridicule than promote Chriftianity, they refrain not from ufing indecent fami- liarity even with our blefled Saviour. I'he eccletiaftical government in Spain is nearly the fame as that in other Roman Catholic countries. The king, by a grant of the popes, nominates to all arch- biflioprict and biflioprict. The number of the formci is eight, and of the latter thirty-eight. With all its extent of dominion, Spain cannot boafl of aisy profpcrity cither in the fcicnces or arts. Lite- rature is here almoft totally cramped by the great re- ftraints upon the preft^ and fuch is the indolence of the natives, that they feem as much averfe to the exercife of the mind, u to bodily labour. Under the government of the Romans, this country produced feveral men of diftinguilhed genius, but among the writers of latter timet, Cervantes is almoft the only author who hat obtained univerfal reputation. The kingdom, however, containt twenty-two univerftties, (he chief of which are, Salamanca, Compofiella, Al- cala de Henares, Valladolid, SaragofTa, Palentia, Se- ville, and Toledo. Spanish Goti> Coins. 1. s. d. The old Spanifli piiolc 4 New Seville piftoie . . . _ 4 Old double doubloon . - . . 3 4 Old double piftoie • . - I 8 New Seville double piftoie I 8 The half and quarter of thofe in proportion, Spanish Silver Coins. I. i, d. The piafter of Spain, or Seville pieces of eight - - - - o 4 6 New Seville piece of eight - - o 3 7 Mexico piece of eight - - 045 Pillar piece of eight - - -045 The rial, or bit - - -007 Gold or filver coin, even Spanifh, is not allowed to be brought into, or carried out of any of the cities of Spain, efpecially Cadiz, if exceeding ten poundsi, without paying four per cent, duty to the king; and there are no bank-notes in the country, CHAP, SPAIN.j bfiNERAL TRAVJSLLEii: d. 4 4 4 8 8 d. chap: v. Hlfttry «/ 3pain, THE ftrft inhabittnts of Spain, it Si probable, emigrated from Gaul and the northern parli of Africa} but the country wm alfo vifitcd at an early period by the Ph>ch an eflabliflimlcnt, that they aflumed the fovereign dominion ove^ the country, as far to the north a* the Cantabriaa moun- tains, and to the weft a* the river Ebro. By the treaty which concluded the firft Punic war, how- ever, they engaged not to moieft either the city of Saguntum, or the allies of the Romans in Celtiberia. But the obfervance of this compaA proved only of ihort duration. The Carthaginians having been obliged to abandon Sicily in the late contcft with the Roiiian power, they determined to have recourfe again to arms, for the recovery of fo important an ifland. With this view Hamilcar, the general of their force* in Spaing made great preparation* for invading Italy by land{ but being aflaflinated by the flave of a noble Spaniard, whom he had caufed to be put to death, he was fuc- ceeded in the government of the country by the cele- brated Hannibal, who immediately began to carry into execution the defigns which had been formed by his predeceffor. The firft aft of hoftility was laying fiege to Saguntum, under pretence that the inhabitants had encroached on the Carthaginian frontiers. The Ro- mans interfering only by negociation in the caufe of their allies, the city was taken by ftorm, after a fiege of eight months. It is reported that the Saguntines, No. 27. feeing no prol])e9 of relief, carried all their richeft moveablei to the market-place, and fet them on fire» kilting alfo their wives and children, and afterwarda ihemfelve* witE their own haads, rather than fubmit to the enemy. On the deftrnQion of this city, the komani declared war agaihR Carthage; and while they aflembled an army to oppofe the invafion of Hannibal, who was marching toward* Rome, they difpatched Cneius Scipio into Spain with ahother \>dy of forces, to make a diverfion on that fide. This enterprixe proved fo fuccefsful, that not only the Carihaglniin army in the Hither Spain Was defeated, but Hanno, their general, made prifoner. Fubliui Corhiliq* Scipio being now fent with a reinforcement to the afRftahce of his brother, they attacked Afdrubal on hit march to Italy, where he intended tb join hit brother Hannibal. The Roman arms were again vi£lorious in this encounti.r, and Afdrubal threw himfelf into Carthagena with the re- mainder of his forces. The fame fucceft attended the two Scipio* in feveral fubfequeiit battle*) but the Carthaginians at length receiving powerful fuccburt from Africa, the Romaa army wu not only defeated, but their two generali alfo killed in an obftinate aSion with the enemy. The Cairthagibians imagining they were now fecure from arty attack, became carelefs of difcipline, and difperfed themfelvea all over the country, either to plunder or wreak their vengeance on thofe Spaniardtj who had appeared in the inteieft of their enemies. Marciui, a Tribune, taking advatitage of this oppor> tunity, aflembled a body of Roman troop*, witit which be defeated feVeral detached parties of the Car* thaginians, and maintained hi* ground till Publius Cornelius Scipio arrived with a (Irong reinforcement to his afliftance ; foon after which the Carthaginian* were defeated in a general battle^ and entirely drivea out of 6pain. The expulfion of the Carthaginians, however, re* ftored not to the Spaniards their ancient liberty, which they every da^ perceived to be more violated by their recent than their former mafter*. Provoked by the cruelty and bppreffion of the Roman officers, they had recourft to ^rms in many parts of the kingdom^ and feveral fmart engagement* happened, in which great numbers were killed on both fidet. The Roman fenate, appreheniive of a general revolt, fent hither M. Porciut Cato With a reinforcement of two legions. We are informed by the Latin hiftorians, that having killed forty thoufand Spaniard* in one battle, befide* a multitude of other* in fiege* and fkirmifhe*, Cato fold many of the native* for Have*, demoliflied moft of their fortifications, and reduced them to fuch defpair, that many of them chofe rather to die by their own fwords than fubmit to the Roman government. After leaving ftrong garrifons in the country he returned to Rome, whither he carried with him a hundred and forty- eight thoufand pounds weight of filver, and five hun- dred and forty pounds weight of gold, befides a prodi- gious treafure which he diftributed among his foldier*. After the departure of Catp, Spain wa* for fome year* governed by pretorfeJpftofc continual oppreffions 4 L !^ "B*"* %*t THB MODERN [EUROPB •gain excited the nativei i* an infurreAion, in which many ihoufanda of the Romani were killed. I'hit war, which wa« loAg and bloody, obtained the name of the Numantian war, from the city of Niiniautia being at the head of the confederacy. A third infurrcAion wai excited againft the Roman government by Viriatui, a perfon of obfcure origin, whom, unable to reduce by force of armiv after the war had continued ten yean, they ve ftid to have hired fome of hit officera to afiaffinste him «fhil« he lay afleep. The Spaniards dill difcovering an irreconcileable averfion to the Roman yoke, the fenate fent amongft them two numerout armiei, the one into Farther Spain, commanded by Deciua Brutui, and the other into Hither Spain, under the command of the celebrated Scipio Africanui. In the fpace of two yean, thefe experienced generals reduced almoll the whole country to obedience. Even the city of Numantia* which had made the moiTobninate defence, offered to capitu- late) but Scipio infilling that the inhabitant* fhould furrender at difcrelion, they chofe rather to follow the example of the Saguntin», than fall into the handi of an enemy whom they bad fo often provoked. Ueing reduced to dcfpair, the men killed their wives and children, and having fct their houfe* on fire, threw themfclves into the flames. From this time the Romans exercifed, for forae years, an uncontrouled dominion over Sp^in, except among the Cantabri, who ppflcfled fome inacce/Sble moun- tains, and were not conquered until the reign of Augullus. The rapacity of the governors, however, continuing to cxafpcrate the minds of the people, in- furredions again broke forth in different parts of the country ; one of which was headed by Sertorius, a Roman tribune, who maintained his ground againft the generals of the republic, till he was aflaffinated by his own party for fome aAs of tyranny which he had committed. The Romans continued fovereigns of Spain till the beginning of the fifth century, when the empire was invaded by the northern nations, who palling over the Pyreneau mountains, laid waftc the greater part of this piovince, for the rerovery of which the Romant entered into a liague with a part of this people. But the former being foon after defeated, the Uoths re« mained mailer* of Spain for almoft three hundred years, when their government was overturned by an infurre£lioi>, fimilar in its origin to fom< of thofh which had formerly caufed revolutions in that of Rome. Rodcric, one of the Gothic kings, having raviOied the beautiful Cava, daughter of count Julian^ her father, to revenge the difgrace offered to his family, entered into a confederacy with fome other male- content lords, and at the fame time invited the Sara- cens to their affiftance. The lauer readily em- bracing an opportunity fo favourable to tlicir third of conqueff,. fent hither a great force, which not only defeated Roderic, who is fuppofed to have been killed in a general battle, but in the fpace of three years made themfelvet matters of all Spain, except fome o( the mountain* of Afturia, Bifcay, and Na- varre, whither thofe of the Gothic ChriAians retired, who did not think fit to live under the dominion of the infidels. The Goths, however, endeavouring to recover their freedom, divcfted the Saracens of fcveral provinces, which they converted into diftindl kingdoms, till the year 1478, when all Spain became united under Fer- dinand and Ifabella, except Navarre, Portugal, and Granada, the laft of which remained in the pofleffioa of the Moors for a little time after. The moll memorable tranfaflione of the Spanifli government from this period, have been either impo- litic or unfuccefsful, fuch as depopulating the king.* dom, not only by great emigration* to America, but by the baniibaient of many tboufands of Moor* and Jew*, who might have been rendered ufeful to tho flate. Thofe event* were followed by the ruin of the Invincible Armada, which had coft the nation • prodigious expence i by the irrecoverable lofs of tho United Provinces, one of the mod valuable province* of their empire i and by that of the kingdom of Portugal, which had been annexed to the Spanifb crown. u L. CHAP. I. 0/ l/jt fituatioH — air — preduc* — - prcvintit — tbitf tovunt—ifands. THE kingdom of Portugal is iituate between 7 and 10 degrees of weft longitude, and between 37 and 42 degrees of north latitude. It is bounded on the north and eaft by Spain, and on the fouth and weft b) the Atlantic Ocean; extending about three hundred miles in length, and in breadth near a hundred. This country, like Spain, ii encumbered with mountains, much more barren than thofe of the latter; but towards the bottom, they are in many places planted with vines. The chief bays and har- bours are thofe of Lifbon, St. Ubes, Oporto, and Lagos Bay ; and the chief capes thofe of St. Vincent, Efpichel, Roca or Roxent, and Mandego. The prin- cipal rivers are the Tayo, Guadiana, Mintio, and Dauro, all rifing in Spain. Beflde* thefe is tho Mondego, which rifes in the eaft of Portugal, and running weftward fall* into the Atlantic Ocean \ as do alfo the Lima, the Vouga, and the Cada, The *■ PokTubAL.] bEf^ERAi 'i'RAVELLER. i^i The air in thii country ii generally more temperate thin In Spain, efpeclally towardi the coalf, where it ii cooled by the fea-brceirt. Bcfidei vinei, the foil producei great plenty of olivet, bitter orangei, and Icmoai i but the two former are not reckoned fo good aa tbofe of Spain. Their fweet orangei, however, which they introduced from China, and are therefore called China orangei, are the heft in Europe. . Other article! of produce are, figi, raifini, almondi, and chefnutii but the country not producing a. fuflleient quantity of corn for the fubfiftence of the inhabitant!, they are frequently fupplied with thii commodity from England and Holland. Portugal ii divided Into fix province], viz. in the north, Entre Minho Dauro, and Traloi Montes ; in the middle, Beira and Eftremadurat and in the fouih, Alentago or Entre Tayo, and Ouadiana or Algarva. The chief town of Entre Minho Douro is Braga, (Ituate in 7 drgreei ao minutei weft longitude, and 41 degrees 10 minutes of north latitude. This is a very ancient city, and was known to the Romans by the name of Bracara Augulla. It is faid to have been built by the Bracarci, a people who once inhabited the country. When - the Suevi came front Germany, and made a conqueft of Galicia and Portugal, this was the feat of their government, and continued to be the capital of a kingdom under their fuccelTors the Goths, The city ftands on the foath fide of the river Cavado, about fifteen miles eaft of the ocean, and fixty north of Lifton. The houfet are generally old ftone buildings, without much elegance. Even the cathedral and archbifliop's palace are more admirrj far their antiquity and magnitude, than the bea>!ly of their archite£lure. This prelate is fpiritual and tem- poral lord of the place j on which account he has a fword as well as a crofs carried before him. His re> venue is forty thoufand ducats a year, and he difputes the primacy with the archbifliop of Toledo in Spain. The town contains about three thoufand families. The other towns in the province are, Caminha, Moncaon, Ponte de Lima, Guimaraez, and Amerante, The capital of Tralos Montes is Bragariza, fitiiate on a little rivulet near the river Zabor, about fix miles from the confines of Leon. It is divided into the New and Old Town, the latter {landing on an eminence, and defended with antique double walls. The New City ftands in the plain, at the foot of a mountain, and his a fort with four baftions adjoining it : the whole confiftt of about fix hundred families. The other towns in the province are, Miranda de Douro, Chaves, Ville Real, Almeida, and Caftel-Rodrigo. The capital of the province of Beira is Coimbra, Jituate on an eminence on the torth fide of the river Mondego, ninety miles north-eaft of Lilbon. The bridge at this place is a fine ftone fabric, confiding of two rows of arches, one above another, and forms a covered way, through which the people pafs without being expofed to the weather. The aquedu£l Which brings water to the town is alfo much admired. The cathedral, and other churches and monafteries, arc handfome buildings; but the private houfes not ele- gant. The number of families in the town is com- puted at five thouCind, The city is Jiftinguiflied by one of the tribunals of inquifiiion, and the moft celebrated univerfity in Portugal ( in the latter of which. there are fifty profeflTori, and near three thou- fand ftudenis. The revenues of the fcminary aro computed to be about four thoufand pounds a year. The capital of Eftremadura, and of the kingdomi is Lilbon, fituate in 9 degrees 25 minutes weft longi- tude, and in 38 degrees 45 minutes north latitude, It ftands on the north bank of the river Tagus, about ten miles from the fei. This city continues nearly in the fame ruinous flate to which it was reduced by the earthquake in 1755. Like Rome, it is built on feven hills. The ftieets are narrow and fteep, very badly paved with (harp ftonesj nor are they lighted at night. The houles are generally two ftories high, fometimes three, without any other chimney thai> that of the kitchen. The number of houfes at the time of the earthquake above mentioned was computed at thirty thoufand, and the inhabitants at two hundred thoufand. The houfes of the citizens are ill-contrived buildings, with lattice windows ; but thofe of the nobility arc grand ftru£lures, built of hewn ftone. Few have courts before ihem, but they are generally furniftted with yards and gardens, and occupy a great extent of ground. The town being deftitute of com- mon fewers, all naftinefs is thrown into the ftrects in the hight-time, as at Madrid; of which city it has however an advantage, by the ftreets lying upon a defcent, and being therefore more eafily cleaned. It !» furroundcd H" mi old wall and towers, and has a ci "Ae on a hi.., which commands the place, but cou.J make no great defence in cafe of a fiege. Be- fides the cathedral, there are here forty parifii churches, With as many monafteries of both fexes, which make a tolerable appearance. Amon^ the buildings, the royal palace is the moll remarkable. As the plan has never been completed, the ftruAure is not very regular; but lying upon the river, it commands a fine profpe^l of the country on the oppofite fide, as well as of the port and the ocean. The moft magnificent church is that of the Domini- cans, in which are three chapels, almuft entirely covered with gold from the pavement to the roof. In one of thofe the holy facrament is continually ck- pofed. This chapel is illuminated with wax tapers, and a vaft number of lamps ; and over the portal are in- fcribed the names of thofe who have been burnt by the inquifition. The magnificence of the convent is fuitable to that of the church ; and near it is the palace of the inquifition, to which the Portuguefe give the name of Santa Cafa, or the Holy Houfe, In the front there is a fine fountain, adorned with marble ftatues, throwing out water on every fide. In the church of the Auguftines, called our Lady of Grace, is a crofs of gold, adorned with precious ftoncs, valued at a hundred thouiand crowns, which is carried in proceflion at their grand feftivals. In the church dedicated to the Mother of GoJ, every Holy Thurfday they (hew the handkerchief faid to be ufed by our Saviour at his crucifixion ; a relic not unfrequent in many other popilh churches. Another JI4 tHB MODERN [tvnopt. m\ Anothtr cirarch hart ii mucli admirtd, immitA ky Ac queen of John V. thi riitei of which tra wain- Ibottcd with ebony, and the roof fupported by pillari •f the Oune. A magnificent church alfo bklonge to tlie Merciful Swiety, an inflitulion which rcSeAt grut honour on the benevolence of itt membcrf. Perfoni of the Mgheft rank in the kingdom are frequently mem« fcwa of thii aflociatton. They apply themfclvei to the relief of all in diftrcft, clfMcially ihoA whom » regard to their charaAer reftraiiM from folicit- ing the public charity. They maintain a great num- kcr of famalto 6rphani, to whom they give portioni, ind endcavottir to fettle comfortably in life. It it likewife an objeQ of thii fecicty to afford relief to prifoneri i and when any fuch art condemned to death, fome of the membert never fail to attend and comfort dwm is their laft momenti. "f he entrance of *he Karhour of Liflxm li dmgeraui without a pilot, but When fliipi have got into it they ride with great fecurity i being covered on the om fide by the Mile on which the city ftandi, and on the other by the oppofue banki, which are of a confiderablc height. When veflel^ arrive, they arc obliged to falute (he fort of Bcllem or Bethlehem, fix milee below iLifbont but they are prohibited from firing • gun, on any pretence, wheii they come up u high ai the city. Except London and Amfterdamr this port has the ttoft extenfive foreign traffic of any in Europe. The palace of Alcantara ftandt a mile weft of Lift>on. It it a magniRcent ftrudure, but chiefly admired for iti beautiful gardeni, which abound in grottoi, foun- taini, and cafcades, and are planted with orange and citron trees, and the choiceft ftowen of the climate. In the adjoining valley is the celebrated aqueduft which join* two billi. The number of arche* in thii part is thirty-five, fcurteen of which are large, and the ethers fmaller. The Urgeft is three hundred and thirty foot in height, and forty-nine in width. Towards the city there are ten arches of inferior dimenfioni, and many yet lefi near the fource of the water which fuppliea the aqueduct. The water -thus conveyed h emptied in a great refervoir at one of the extremities of Lifttoil. This aqueduft is built of a kind of wMte marble. The pillars which fupport the arches are fquare^ the Urged roeafuiing thirty-three foot at each iide of the bafe. The palace of Bellem is a mean voodeir edifice, but the church and cloyfter are noble buildings. The former of thefe is lined from top to bottom with jafper and the fiiieft marbles ; and here are the tombs of feveral of the kings of Por:ugal, admirably executed. Near the mouth of the Tagus, is a promontory or cape, anciently named Promtnttrhm Lma, and which the Britilh mariners ;diftingui(h by the name of the Rock •f Lifbon. This is a branch of a high mountain, formerly called the Mountain of the Moon, and at prefent Mount Cintra ; on the top of which is a fine monaftery, dedicated to our Lady of the Rock, and a church, whither people refort in great numbers, to perform their devotion for nine days. Both the church >nd cloyfter, with an inn that ftands near them for the 7 Kcommodation of A« devoieH, arc hewn out of the folid rock. This lofty fituaiio« commands one of tho moft beautiful profpcAs in the world. At the foot of the mountain, on the promontory, arc the ruin* of ■n ancient temple, dedicated to the fun and moon, on one of the pillars of which the following infcripiios is flill vifibfe: StU mUrn$ hM frt murmtau Imferli, tS J»luu imf, OtL—Stfiimii Stvtri (S Imf, Aug. Pit. C«f, is JuK* A„g. Marlii, 6>/ Dru/mi yal,riu$ Calianut viali ufi tfiyi(/?»rHM, &r. Setubal, comMonly caNcd St, Ubci, is a modern town, built diit Of the ruins of the ancient Ceiobrigs, which ftood a little to the weftwasd, and had in it • temple dedicated to Jupitci Ammon, of which there arc yet foNM remains. This low*' it fitukted twenty- two miles to the fiMthward oT Lifboa, near the mouth of the river Gadoan, at tha bottom of a fine bay, which formi one of the bed harbours in the kingdom. Her* is a great maaufaaurc of white fait, which i* eaporicd to the north countrin of Europe and to America. The other moft remarkable towns in the province of Eftie- madura are, Almada, Benevenio, Salvaterra, Mugcn, Tomar, Pendragon, Leiria, Alcobaca, Paniche, San< taren, and Alangucr. The capital of the province of Alentage, or Entr* Tago, is Ebora, fituate about fisty miles fouth-eaft of Llfbon, on a hill encompalFed with mountains. It is three miles in circumference, furroundcd by an an« tique wall and lovwri, and contains about four thou-> fand inhabitants. This city is faid to have been built by the Pheenicians, who gave it the name of Ebora, in allufion to the fruitfulnefs of the foil. Julius Cwfar changed its name to Liberalitas Julia, u appears by an ancient infcription difcovered here, wbkh is a» follows : D«v» Ju&» Lii. Julia Ebtrt th. Jallut In Mun. (S Munle. HhtraliMm, im D. D. 2>. njut diilcolunr VtHtrl Gmkrid, tmfium matrtHm icnum tuUruiU. TMs wu a confiderablc town in the time of the Gothic kings. It remained under the dominion of ih« Moors tiH the year ii66r when king Alphooso re« took it, with the other towns of the province. The valleys in this part of the country are exceeding fruit» ful, and there are mines of filver in the mountains. Eftcemos (lands near twenty miles nortb-eaft of Ebora, on a hill, and is divided into the Higher and Lower town, the former ferving u a cafile to the latter. The bottfes of the people of condition arc built of white marble, and make an elegant appearance. The number of inhabitants in both towns is about two thoufand. Here is a manufadore of fine red earthen- ware, and without the town is a fountain, endowed with the quality of petrifying almoft whatever is thrown into it. On a hill about twenty-four miles to the caftward of Eftremos lies Elvai, near the frontiers of the Spanilh Eftremadura. It ia defended by a caftle, and ftrongly fortified. The town is well built, and con- tains about two thoufaod five hundred inhabitants. Here Portugal.] gi:neral traveller. 3*5 Here ii • cidern fu Urge, ihit it could hold water enough to fuppljr the whole town for fix monthi. Thit place ii of gieu antiqiiiiy, and W4i formerly called Helvii, from a people of G^ul who built it. It ii at prefeni efteemed one of the llrongcft fortrelTri In the kingdom, and the neighbouring country aflfurdt fome of the beft wine in Portugal. The other towni in thii province are, Campo- Mayor, Arronchei, Portalegre, Oliventa, Villa Vi- ciofa, Maura, Serpa, Martola, Bega, Portel, Viaiij, Alcafar de Sal, St. Jago de Cacem, and Sinei. One of the chief towna in Ouadiana or Algarva, is Faro, fituated on • bay of the ocean, and ftrongly fortified. It contain! about two thoufand inhabitants, and was built out of the ancient OITonaba, which lay • little to the eaftward, and is now a fmall village, called Eftri. Lagos (lands alfo on a fine bay of the ocean, about five leaguei to (he eaftward of cape St. Vincent. It contains about the fame number of inhabitants as Farn, and in both thole towns the chief employment is the lifhery. The other towns in the province are, Caftro, Marin, Pavila, Silvei, Villa-Nova de Portimao, Abor, and Sagrct. The principal iflands belonging to the Portuguefe, in Kk. >pe, are the Asores, or Tercerat, fometimes called the Wellern Ifles. They confift of nine, and ■re fituate between 25 and 33 degrees of weft longitude, and between 36 and 40 degrees of north latitude, about three hundred leagues to the weft of Portugal. They firetch from eaft to weft. The moft eafterly are thofe of St. Michael and St. Mary, the former of which is the largeft of all the Asores, and about thirty leagues in circumference. This ifland, like the reft, is pretty mountainous, but produces plenty of corn, fruits, cattle, fifh and fowl, with a thin fort of wine. Tercera, which is the next in order, is efteemed the chief of thofe iflands, on account of its having a tolerable good harbour, and being the refidence of the governor, though it is not more than eighteen or twenty leagues in circumference. This ifland is at much encumbered with mountains as the others, but produces plenty of good corn, pafture, and an excellent breed of cattle; having alfo a great number of vineyards. The capital of this, and of all the iflands, is Angra, fituated on a bay, which forms the harbour on the fouth fide of the ifland, and defended by a caflle, which ftands on a rock at the entrance. Here the Portuguefe fleets always call, in their paflage to and from their plantations in Brasil, Africa, and India ( the chief ufe of thefe iflands being to fupply them with provi- fions. Angre is the fee of a bifliop, as well as the ^feat of the viceroy. The iflands of Gratiofa, St, George, Pico, and Fayall, lie fouth -weft of Tercera; but have nothing in them that deferves any particular dercription. Pico received its name from fuch another peak or pyramidal mountain as TenerifFe, and is fup- pofed to have been raifed by the like means, namely, by earthquakes, to which thofe iflands, as well as the Canaries, are fubje£l. The moft wefterly of the Azores, and the fmalleft, are the two iflands of Flores No. 27. and Corvo, which remained lung uninhabited after the others were planted, and feem to have been occu- pied by the I'ortuguele at luft, with the view only of preventing them from falling into the hands of fome foreign nation, which might difturb their polHOian of the reft. CHAP. II. 0/ thi Pniugtufi — cHjhmt — uity if travifling — XtwntmiHt—rtvtiHiti-^/treti^ntHlilf^ rtligitn — ItarmHi—hifitrj, ^T^HE Portuguefe refemble the Spaniards fo much '' in their perfons, that they require no particular defcription; and the drefs of the people of fafhion is alfo nearly the fame, as well as many of the national cuftoms. But amung the common people in Portugal, the drefs of th: men is a large cloak and fluuched hat. Under the cloak they generally wear a dagger, not« withdanding this weapon be prohibited. I'he women wear no caps, but tic a kind of filk net- work over their hair, with a long taflel behind, and a ribbon tied in a bow-knot over their forehead. This head- drefs they call udtdllu, and it it worn indifcriminatcly by both fexes, The men frequently wear their hair made up into • club of an enormous fixe. The charafler of the Portuguefe is alfo not much different from that of the Spaniards, the women having the fame vivacity with thofe among the latter, but the men not near To much gravity. Cortejos here are fyno- nimous with the Italian Cicifliei. The houfes of perfons of quality are crouded with domeftics, who are often too numerous to be accom* modated in them. One reafon for keeping fo great a retinue, is the low rate of wages, and the cheapnefs with which they may be maintained, their diet confift* ing chiefly of common vegetables. Another is a cuf- tom of retaining in their pay all thofe who have ferved their anceftors ; infomuch that fome of the grandees have four or five hundred fervants of both fexes. The greater part of this number, however, is kept only for parade, and being lodged in adjacent houfes, never appear but on days of ceremony. Notwithftanding this croud of domeftics, when perfons of the higheft rank appear abroad, they are limited to a fmall number of attendants. Befides ordinary fervants, the quality retain many dwarfs, and they have alfo a train of flaves, both Turks and Moors, each of whom is valued at four or five hundred crowns. The mafters formerly had the power of life and death over this clafs of their depen- dents, but the government now reftrains them from the exercife of capital jurifdiflion, though they con- tinue to infli£l corporal punifliment with great feverity, Thofe flaves however are incomparably the bcft fervants in Portugal; for the other domeftics having the com- mon pride of the nation, often prove refractory, and are apt to be extremely impertinent. Even beggars aflc alms with a tone that favours more of requifition than intreaty ; alledging that they are defcended from 4 M eld )•« T II E M O old Chtiftitni, or the incitnt Ooihic nobility t *nd if you give ihtm no money, they niuft at Ifift be dif- mid'ed with • compliment, The Udirt here uftcn ride on turru or jick'nTci, with ■ pack fuddle. A fcrvant attcnJi wich a (harp Aick, wliirh hi- ulci inftcad of a whipi and fur re- tarding the brad, when it goer too quick, the ex- pedient ii to pull it by the tail, Coachei are not fu frequent in-.ung the Purtuguefe ai in Spain, but in place of ihvm tlic litter or mule ii commonly ufed on ■ journey i at>il in many paiii the mud ufual way of travelling ii by water, 'J'he king uf Poilugal ii an .ibfoliitc fovereign; the cortc), or three elljles of the nation, having long Cnce rclin<|uinii.'d thcii (hare in the Icgillaturr, and ai preknt reiving, imly to rrgidcr fuch a£li of (late ai they •i« requiicd by tli: royal maiidnii; tu pafs. The lawn uf thii ciiuntiy arc contained in three volumci duodecimo. 'I'hcy are founded chiefly on the civil law and iinmcmorinl cuRum, both whiih however are frequently dil'regardcd by the judges of the inqui> fiiion. The dutici rin gnodi imported and exported are very high, and ufuully farmed out by the cruwn for the term of three ycain. Foreign merchandize pays 23 ftr ctnt, on importation ; fifli from Newfoundland 25 pir nul, 1 hole taken in their own fcai and rivers, 47 fir (tut. and the duties on all lands and cattle that are fold, arc 10 per ctnl. 7'hat on fnufl' alone is faid to amount to fifty thoul'and crowns a year. The king likewife draws n confidcrablc duty frum every order of knights, of which he is grand mafter i and the pope, in confideration of the valt fums which he annually derives from the kingdom, configns to the crown of Portiigal the money nrifing from fume of his bulls ; thofc cfpccially by which he grants a licence to cat flefh at prohibited times. The nobility are taxed only upon extraordinary occafions, and then very mode- rately. Since the difcovcry "f the rich mines in Brazil, the revenues of Portugal, including the domcltic taxes above mentioned, can be but little inferior, if not equal, tu thul'e of any prince in Kuropc; notwith- ilanuin;; which the forcea of the kingdom are very iuconnderable. 1 he military ellabiilhmcnt, though now beginning to improve, has for many years con- fiflcd only of a raw and uiidifciplined militiai and with refpifl to naval force, the Pcrtuguefc are the leaft furmidablc of all the maritime powers. 7'heir fecurity againft the encroachments of Spain fecms to depend chiefly on the matrimonial connexions of the two crowns, and on the commercial alliance which it in always the intercft of Portugal to maintain with the Brit.fli nation. Almoft fince the conclufion of the laft pence, however, the trade and manufa£)ures of Portugal fecm to have turned into a new channel, •ccafioned, as has been alledged, by the caprice of the marquis de Piombal, who lately guided with uncon- trouled authority the counfels of that nation. But we continue to import a great quantity of their wine, fait, and fruitf, and much of their materials for manufadure. D B R N [Europe. In Portugal, nobility it not hereditary. The chief order of knighthood is called iht trdtr tf Cbriji, and WIS iiinitutcd in lalij. Though worn by the king himfclf, it is often proftituttd to tha mcaneft candi- dates fur royal favour, and is bccoma To common, aa alinoft to preclude the dillinflion which it was meant to confer, A late traveller of good credit informs ua^ that he law a vaUt dc cbambrr, the keeper of a billiard- table, and a mufician, decorated with itt iofignia. The religion of Portugal ii the Roman Catholic 1 and a court of inquifition ii cftabliflted upon the fame foundation as that of Spain. There are in the king- dom three archbifhoprics, ten bifhoprics, and three univerniic*. Learning here feems to be in a condition even worfe than in Spain. The LuAad of Camoent may be Uid to be the only work of genius ever prow duced by a native of this country. In general, the fine arts are uncultivated \ and with refpeA to that of painting, in particular, there is not in the whole kingdom a Angle piAurc from any of the Italian fchouli. Portugal remained a province of Spain till lowariia the end of the eleventh century, when it was recovered from the Moors by Alphonfo or Alonso V 1, king of Leon and Caltile. I'his prince having rcquefted the ChriOian powers to aflill him in reducing the infidels, prince Henry, a younger fon of Robert duke of Bur- gundy, among other volunteers of dillin£lion, reforted 10 his aid. The youthful adventurer, in a fliort time, fignalized himfelf fo much by his zea! and activity aa well as courage in the profecntion of the war, that the king married him to the princ^fs Thcrcfia, his natural daughter, and created him earl uf Portugal, or rather of the northern provinces of that kingdom, which he had fubdued, with a grant of th^ icft, as Toon as they fhould be recovered from the Moors, upon c iiiliiton that he fhould hold thofe territories of the kings of Caflile and Leon, and attend them in their wars with three hundred horfe, on any emergency that might require fuch fervice. Henry dying in ma, left an infant, furnanied Alphonfo, during whofe minority the government was adminiftered by Ferdinand Pacis, who had married Henry's mother after the death of her former hufband. The young prince, however, no fooner attained the age of manhood, than he compelled his father-in-law to quit Portugal, and confined hia mother. Continuing to profecute the war againfl the Moors, he made himfelf mailer of all the fouthern provinces as far as the mountains of Algarva, aitd ahumed the title of king of Portugal. Towards the middle of the thirteenth century, Al- phonfo III. marrying Beatrice, the natural daughter of the king of Caftile, he received with her the province of Algarva, then lately recovered from the Mours, by which acquifition Portugal obtained the fame boundaries that have ever fincc divided it from Spain. It was not, however, till the reign of Emanuel, near the end of the fifteenth century, that the Portuguefe extended their conquefts beyond the limits of their own king- dom. Then their fleets iirft pafled the Cape of Good Hope, and arrived in India. In confequence of the difcoveries they made in this voyage, they immediately I moiio- \ )PI. chi«r and Iking |indi- at ncanc II ua, liafd< lolic t [fame king* I three glcion Minorca.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. I«7 nionopcilitt'd iho trtilo of the fine fpicca, filki, dia* moiiili, 411 i littler ricli nicr:haiidixu uf lh« Eall| which iht VeiKiuni, itiiii oihi-r marilinie powcri in the Mcdi- terrancjii, h^il brrn ii^TudumcJ to bring to Europe by the w.iy ol i-|;)'pi uiid the Levant. Extending Ihair rvfraichei likewif* in the other quarters of the world, ih^y about the Time time planted Braail in Souih-Aiiiiiici, and cflablifhcd rcttlementi on the caft coall of Africa, whence fuch treafurea were imported, ai occafiniied ihii reign to receive the denomination of the golden age. Emanuel dyinf; in 1521, wai fucceeded by hit fon John 11. who likcwii'c planted colonic! in Afla, Africa, •nd Amciica, Nor wai he lefi celebrated both for propagailng the Chrini.m religion in thofe eountrica, •nd encoiira^iiig the culiivaiion of arti and fci- •ncci at home. On the death of this prince, the crown ilcfccndcd to hit grandfon. Dun Sebaltian, who with the fljwer of the Portuguefe nobi- lity, W41 fljin in battle, in endeavouring to rellore Muk-y Hamct, king of Morocco, who had been de- pofed by his nephew. The royal family of Portugal brcomiiig exiinin liy ihit accident, Philip II, king of Spain, luuk advantage of the general confufion which prevailed about the choice of another fovereign, and fent the duke of Alva with a powerful army to invade the kingdom. I'he Spanifh general obtained two vic- toriei over prince Anthony, natural fon of king John, whom the people had fet upi and notwithAanding the Englifh had efpoufed hia intered, Portugal remained a province of the Spanifh monarchy during a period of fixty yean. The impolitic conduit of Philip proved no lefs prejudicial to the interefts of Portugal than to thofe of his own hereditary dominions. Being at thia time employed in endeavouring to fupprefa the revolt of the Netherlands, he imagined his purpofe might be greatly forwarded, by prohibiting the inhabitants of thofe pro- viaces from carrying on any traffic with Spain and . Portugal, ai formerly 1 not doubting but by fuch • rcllridlion, they might be induced to fubmit to what- ever terms he Oiould prefcribe. This projrA, however, was followed with an i>'^> -'ery different fr.im what ha cxpeAeH. For the Dutt.i being denied the privilege of purchafing the commodities of India and America from the fubjeAs oi Spain, 'iited out flrong fleets, with which they not only imported the produce of the Indies into Europe, but drove the Portuguefe from all their beft fettlemcnis in thofe countries. The Spaniards being weakened by a long and expcn- five w>. with France, and the attention of the govern* ment being likcwife occupied by a revolt of the Catalans, the Portuguefe began to form the projeA of refcuing their country from the dominion of a foreign power, under the odious yoke of which the wealth and com- merce jt their nation had been declining for upwards of half a century. With this view in offer of the crown was privately made to the duke of Brigansa, who was a popular nobleman, and the next in blood to their former princei. At f.rft he hefitated to accept the propofal, till urged, as is faid, by hi* lady, a wonon of great fpirit, and defcended from the family of iVlt'lina Sidonia, he voluntarily «c« quiefced in the fcheme. This revolution, which took place on the (irft of December, 1640, is one of the moft extraordinary that occurs in the hiOory of any nation. Though the de- fign had been communicated to above three hundred perfons, and a complete year was taken up in prepa- rations to infure its fuccefs, the conl'piracy remained unknown to the court of Spain, till it was ainioft upon the point of being carried into execution ( and it was at lad effefled in an indani, without more than the lives of two perfons being loft in the tumult. Since that time the crown has continued in thi- family of the duke of Braganza, or John IV. from whom the prefent queen of Portugal ia the fourth in dcfcent. M N R A. ' I "'HE iOand of Minorca is fltuated in the Medi- '- tetranean, between thiity-nine and forty degrees of north latitude, and in near four degrees of call longitude. It is in length from fouth-eaft to north- weft about thirty' three miles, and in breadth from eight to twelve miles, but generally about ten. The coafts are much indented by the fea, which forms a number of little creeks and inlets, that might fome of them be rendered very advantageous. The climate is temperate, except from June to the middle of .September, when it is very hot, and the rainy fcafon follows; but during fevcn months of the ycir the country is extremely pleafant. The north, north- eaft, and north- weft winds generally blow from the middle of September to the middle of March, and though wholfome to the inhabitants, yet are very un- favourable to the fruit-trees which arc expofcd to them. The face of the illand is diverflfied with rifing grounds, but there is properly no more than one mountain in the ifland. In the valleys, for want of a fufficient declivity, the rains fettle in many places, and the grounds are marOiy. The foil in the flat country is light and fandy ; but on the Tides o' :' } hills and in the intervening valleys, black, ric~., r,i:d fertile, and may be every where cultivated without m v degree of labour. The principal defe£l is in refpeiA of water, of which, except what is fjvcd from rain in cifterns, there is little either palatable or healthy. The ifland produces excellent wheat, though not enough for the cOnfumption of the inhabitants; as alfo barley, and fome Indian corn. Here is great plenty of vines, bearing both white and red grapes, from which they make a confiderablc quantity of wine. There are like- wife olives, dates, almonds, eranges, lemons, limes, pome- 3*8 THE MODERN [Europk; ;l pomcgranites, Hgs, &c. Hemp and flax grow in great perfeAion t and from fome trial* which have been Made, the ifland might produce excellent cotton. The kitchen gardens are excccdiilgly well flocked, and the vegck.:blr* they produce are not Inferior to thofe of any other r juntry. Nor mud it be forgotten that the honeo oi" IVlinorc.\ ii likewife reputed excellent. Tlie black catrie upon this ifland are fmall in fice, and in general lean, occafioned chiefly by the careleflnef* of the people, who Hiflike fat. The flieep are alfo fmall, and their wool neither coarfe nor fine, but fuch a* futnifhes the inhabitants with cloth for their own wear; 3id fome of their wool they likewife ex- port. Goats are larger in proportion, but are eat only by the poorer fort of people. The fwine are large, and afford great plenty of excellent meat. Here are no deer or hares, but rabbits are very nuriC- rous. The breed of horfes >3 fmall, and though they feem to have fpirit, have little ftrength. For «/ant of grafs and hay, they are fed witi. chopped ftrr.w and a litt'. barley mixed. The afles, however^ are large, an continued. Here arc alfo great quantities of marble, very beautiful, and finely variegated ; with free-ftone 'and lime-ftone in plenty, as well as an excellent kind of (late. Minorca r^ divided into di(lri£ls, vhich they call terininoi. Of thefe there were ancli'.itly five, but they are now reduced to four, and rr'. mble o'lr counties. The termino of Ciudadella ar the n -th-eaftern extre- mity of the ifland, is fu named fr.^m a place which T-..S >nce a city, and the capital of Minorca. In its pref'tnt ftate of decay the place makes a venerable and majeftic (ig'ire, havi:r in it a large Gothic cathedral, with fome othe- churches and convents, the governor's palace, and at. exchange, which is no contemptible building. It conraini fix hundred houfes, which, be- fore the feat of government and the courts of juftice were removed to Mahon, were fully inhabited ; and here are yet more gentlemen's families than in all the reft of the ifland. It has a port commodious enough for the veliels eni[)lo)e>! in the trade of this country, which, though in the poflufiion of a maritime power, is lefs thaii it formerly was. The next termino is that of Fererias, a narrow flip rcachinjj acrofs from fea to fca, .ind little cultivated. It is united tu the termino of Mcrcandal, in which fiaruls iMont-loro, in the centre of the ifland. On the fummitof this mountain is a convent, where even in 4 the hotteft moftthi the menki enjoy a cool air, and at all timet a moft delightful profpeA. About fix milct hence, to the northward, is fituated the caflle that covers port Furnellet, a fpacious harbour on the eaft fide of >:he ifland, but difficult to thofe who are unac- quainted with itj on account of Iboals and foul ground. At a fmall diftance from it lies another harbour, called Adaia, which runs far into ttj land, but is at prefent little ufed. The adjacent country, however, is faid to be the pleafanteft and moft healthful in the ifland, and almoft the only part that is plentifully fupplied with excellent fpring- water. Another termino is Aiaior, in which there is nothing remarkable but the capital of the fame name, well fituateJ on an eminence in a pleafant and tolerably cultiva'.,:d country. The termino of Mabon, at the fouth^aft end of the ifland, ii at prefent the moft confiderable diftriO^ and contains nearly one half of the inhabitants in Minorca. The town of Mahon ftands on an eminenc« on the weft fide of th-: harbour, having a pretty fteep afcent, and is faid to have been founded by the Cartha- ginian general Mago. There are in it a large church, three convents, the governor's palace, and fome other public buildings. The town is large, but the ftreet* are narrow, winding, and ill paved. The fortrefs of St. Phi'.'p ftands near the entrance of the harbour, which it covers, aud is of great flrength. Port Mahon is allowed to be the fineft harbour in the Mediterranean, about ninety fathoms wide at its entrance, but within very large and fafe, ftretching a league or more into the land. Beneath the town of Mahon is a fine quay, one end of which is referved for the fliips of war, and furniflied with all the accommodations neceflary for careening and refitting them; the other end ferving for merchant vefTels, On the other fide of the harbour is Cape Mola, well fituated for a fortrefs. The town of Mahon derives many advantages from its elevated fitup.tion, for befides enjoying an extenfive profpe£t and a cool air, it is even in fummer almoft free frcm mufqvetoes. It is alfo the principal place of commerce in the ifland, at well as the feat of govern- ment, A difeafe extremely frequent in this ifland it the 'ertian fever, or ague, which an intelligent furgeon litely gone thither impute* to the influence of two c lufes. One it the general pradice of watering the gjrdent too much; which, joined to their being clofeiy planted with fucculent vegetables, occafions a copious exhalation of putrid vapour*. Another ctufe is, with great proLverninent, which is entirely modelled on the feudal fyllem. The whule rental of Che 1 >nJed property in 'lie ifland does not exceed twelve thoufand poundb per annum, and of tliis fum (he public revenue uniouiUo to about one third. The number of pricfts fecular and regular, with that of the nuns, is about three hundred) and the number of the inhabitants, about tvi'o years after th^' iiland was reAored to us at the lad peace, was between eighteen and twenty thoufand. Our ufual eftablifliment confins of a governor, deputy-governor, &c. with fi"C regiments, the expence of which, including the ftafF and fub- fiftence, may amount to about ferenty thoufand pounds a ycir, exclufive of the ordnance and marine, the repa : of buildings, and other contingencies. This charge, however, is compenfated by its great im- portance, in affording refrefhments ^nd accommodatiou to our fquadions in the Mediterranean, as well as protedion to our trade. In time of war it is a con- ftant bfiidle. on the ports of Marfeiiks and Toulon; and Its vicinity to. the ports of Spain is another ad* vantage refuUing from th;: pofTcflion of it. M; O A. TV/fAJORCA .3 about fixty milet in length, and 1 ^^ ■*■ forty-five in breadth. The north and ; weft parts of this illand are mountainous, but not ^airen ^ and the others are not only level, but well cuhivat$4i abounding in corn-fieldi, vineyards, and <)rchatrd|^ bcfldes exceeding rich paftures.~ The air, though. very hot in the fummer, is generally rot unwholefome; and the illand is well fupplied with water. It has feveriU good harbours, and anchoring places ; and the whole is encompafled with ftrung towers, whence the approach of an enemy may be obfcrvcd ataJiftance. , The capital is Majorca., the ancient Palm^, feate^ rii a bay between two capes, in 39 degrees 40 minutei north latitude, and in 2 degree 36 minutes of eaft longitude, on the weft fide of the iflai^d. It is a large town, foriificil in the modern tafte : the ftrects are broad, the houfcs ilately, and the fquares fpacious. Of the latter the largcft is that of Born, which is en-, compafl'ed with grand buildings^ whence the principal inhabitants view the bull-figbts and other fhews. Here arc no lefs than twenty-two churches, befidet chapels and oratories. The cathedral is a magni- ficent , ftru£li|ile, the bifliop of which is fufFragan to the archbifhop of Valencia. The town likewife contains a univerfity and a court of inquifitioi. ; and the inhabitants itre computed at about .ten thoufand. This city w**..t4tlcen by the Englilh in 1706, and re- taken in 1715. Befides the. cupital, .Majorca contains feveral other towns; and round it lies a confiJerrible number of finall ifl<|nds. One. of tl.'cfe is Cabrera, To called from its abounding with goa: This ifland, now allotted for exiles, is mountainous, and inhabited only on the borders of its fpacious and fecure harbour, the entrance pfwhicll fronts Majorca, and is defended by a caftle with a finall garrifon. Les Bledes was formerly a pcpulout ifland, and is ilill diftinguifhed for a quarry of fine marble, Dragonera is uninhabited, and pro- dl|ces only an efculent bird called a Spaniard. Here is, however, a fmall fortrefs on a hill, called Mount Popia. A. / A BOUT fifty- fix miles fouth-weft of Majorca ■^ ■*■ lies the ifi.iid of Ivica, the ancient Ebufus, about live miles long, and four Sroad. Though mour.talnous, the foil is not unfruitful; but the in- habitants following chiefly the falttrade, it is little cultivated. It however produces pines, and fruit-trees of various kinds. Ivica, the 'apital, is fortified in the mo- ueni manner, and \-. th-; n iJenceof the goveinor, from whom lies an appeal to the' royal audience' at Majorca. Formentera, the ancient Ophiufa, anb ^olluberiai or the Adder Ifland, was formerly well inhabited, but is at prefent abandoned, on account of the African corfairs, 'that continually fwam about it. The only animal here obferved is a kind of wild afs; but tho ifland is furnidied with fome harbours, and good anchoring places. >o. 2S. 4N E NG- «l* THE MODERN (EOROFC, E N CHAP. I. Of th auHlitf af Kmt and Suft*, ENGLAND, or the fouthern divirion of Great Britain, is fituate in the Atlantic Ocean, between 50 and 56 degrees of north latitude, and between a degrees of eaft, and 6 degrees ao minutes of weft longitude. It is bounded on the north by Scotland { on the eaft by the German Ocean { on the fouth by the Englifh Channel, which feparates it from France; and on the weft by St. George's Channel, which divides it from Ireland. Including Wales, its length from fouth to north is three hundred and fixty miles, and its greateft breadth three hundred; but in the northern parts it is not more than a hundred miles broad. The weather in England is fubjc£l to grct viciili- tudesj but, except in the fens and marfliy grounds, the air is generally healthful, and is warmer tl an in thofe countries on the continent which lie under the fame parallel. The greater part of the country is champain, diver- fified with rifing grounds, and exhibiting a beautiful intermixture of arable and pallure land, inclofures, plantations, farm-houfes, and elegant country feats. The moft remarkable mountains are the Peak in Derbyfliire, the Endle in Lancafliire, the Wolds in Yorkftilre, the Cheviot-hills in Northumber- land, the Chiltern in Bucks, Malvern in Worceller- fliire, Cotfwold in Gloucefterfliire, and the Wrekin in Shropfhire.i with thofe of Plinlimmon and Snowdon in Wales. The principal rivers are, 1. The Thames, which rifes on the confines of Gloucefterfliire, whence being joined by fevcral other ftreams, it pafles to Oxford, afterwards by Abingdon, Wallingford, Reading, Mar- low, and WIndfor. At Kingfton it formerly met with the tide, but fince the building of Weftminfter- bridgc, this is faid to flow no higher than Richmond. Below London the 1'hames divides the counties of Kent and Eflcx, and widening in its progrefs, fails into the fea at the. Nore, between which place and the capital it is navigable for large veflbls. 2. The liver Medway- which rifes near Tunbridge, falls into the mouth of the Thames at Sheernefs, and is navi- gable for the largeft (hips as far as Chatham, where the men of war are laid up. 3. The Severn baa its fource at PliiilimTon-hul in North- Wales: becoming navigable at Welch -Pool, it runs eaft to Shrcwflmry; whence turning fouth it vifits Bridgnorth, Worccfter, and Tcwkftjury, where it receives the Upper Avgp. Having pafled Gloucefter, it directs its courfc to the fautb-wvft, and being increafcd near its mouth by the N a Wye ami Uflre, it difcharges itfelf into the Briftol Channel near King-road,- where lie the large veflels, which cannot get up to Briftol. 4. The Trent rifes in the Moorlands of StafFordfliire, and running fouth- eaft by Newcaftle-under-Line, divides that county into two parts: then turning north-eaft on the confines of Derbyfliire, it viflts Nottingham, running the whole l.-ngth of that county to Lincolnfliire, and being joined by the Oufe, and feveral other rivers towards the north, it obtains the name of. the Humbcr, and falls into the fea fouth-eaft of Hull, The other rivers of note are, the Oufe, which falls into the Humber. Another river of the fame name rifes in Bucks, and difcharges itfelf' into the fea, near Lynn in Norfolk. The Tyne runs from weft to eaft through Northumberland, and falls into the German Sea at Tinmouth below Newcaftle. The Tees run* in the fame direAionj dividing Durham from York- fliire, and falls likewife into the German Sea belovv Stockton. The Tweed alfo runs from weft to eaft, on the borders of Scotland, and falls into the fea at Berwick. The Eden runs from north to fouth through Weftmorland and Cumberland, and pafling by Cadifle, falls into Solway Firth below that city. The Lower Avon runs weft through Wiltfliire to Bath, and then dividing Somerfetfliire from Gloucefterfliire, runs to Briftol, below which city it falls into the mouth of the Severn. The Derwent runs from eaft to weft through Cumberland, and pafling by Cockermouth, falls into the Irifli Sea a little below. The RIbble runs from weft to eaft through Lancafliire, and pafling by Prefton, difcharges itfelf into the Irifli Sea. The Merfey runs from the fouth-eaft to the north-weft through CheOiire, whence, after dividing that county from Lancafliire, it pafles by Liverpool, and falls into the Irifli Sea a little below that town. The Dee rifos in Wales, and dividing Fiintfliire from Chefliirc, falls into the Irifli Channel below Chefter. At prefent the lakes in England are few, but it is evident from the face of the country in fome places, as well as from ancient documents, that meres and fens have been very frequent in former times, until they were drained and converted into arable land. The chief lakes that remain are, Sokam-mere, Wittlcfca- mere, and Ramfey-mere, in the Ifle of Ely in Cam- bridgefliire. All thcfe in a rainy feafon are overflowed, and form a lake of forty or fifty miles in circumference. Winander-mere lies in Weftmorland, and in Lanca- fliire there are fome fmall lakes, which go by the name of Derwent waters. Under the firft Norman kings, immenfe trafls of land in different parts of England were converted into forefts, for the benefit of hunting ; but out of fixty- nine which once exifted, the principal now remaining are 'i £nolano.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 33* are thofe of Windfdr, New-Forcft, the Forcft of Dean, and Sherwood Foreft. Thofe forclU produced formerly great quantities of excellent oak, cini, afh, and beech, walnut trees, poplar, maple, and other kinds of timber. In ancient times England likewife contained large woods of chcfnut trees, which were excellent for building, as yet appears from the beams and roofs in fume great hnufcs, which, though upwards of fix hundred years old, remain undecaycd. England, including Wales, is divided into fifty- two counties; viz. BedfurJfliire, Berkfliire, Buckingham- ihire, Cambridgefhirc, Chcfhirc, Cornwall, Cumber- land, Dcrbylhire, DcvonOiire, Uorfctfhire, Durham, Eil'e^r, Glouceftcrfhire, HampQiire, Herefordfiiire, Hertfordfltirc, Huntingdon/hire, Kent, Lancalhire, Leicefterfliire, Lincolnfbire, Middlefex, Monmt uth- ihire, Norfolk, NorthamptonOiire, Northumberland, Nottinghamfliire, Gxfurdfhire, Rutlandlhire, Shrop- (hire, Somerfetfliire, StafTordfliire, Suffolk, Surry, SufTex, Warwicklhirc, VVeftmorland, Wiiifijirc, Wor- ccfterfhire, Yorkfliirc, Anglcfea, Brecknockfhirc, Caer- marihenfliirc, Caernarvonfhire, Cardiganfliire, Den- bighlhire, F'lintfhire, Glamorganfliire, Merionythlhire, Montgomery (hire, Pembrokcfliire, Radnorfliire. We fliall begin with the defcription of Kent, as being fituatcd neareft to the Continent. The county of Kent is bounded on the fouth by the EngliOi Channel and Suflex, on the weft by Surry, on the the north by the Thames and the German Sea, and on the eaft by the fame fea. It extends in length frumeaft to weft fifcy-fix miles, and in breadth thirty- fix. As a great part of this county lies upon the fea, the air is frequently thick, foggy, and warm, but in the higher and more inland parts it is reckoned very healthy. The foil is generally rich, abounding not only in corn, and orchards of cherries, apples, and other fruit, but in hops. I'he fouth and weft parts of Kent are well flocked with oak, beech, and chefnut- trees ; and here are likewife many woods of birch, whence the broom-makers in and about London are abundantly fupplied. This county alfo produces woad and madder for dyers, with plenty of famphirc, hemp, and faint-foin. The cattle of all forts are reckoned larger here than in the neighbouring counties; and the fouth part, or the Weald, is remarkable for bullocks of a great fize. Here are feveral parks of fallow-deer, and warrens of grey rabbits. The county alfo abounds in fea and frefh-water fiOi, and is prirticularly famous for large oyfters. Kent affords fome mines of iron, but is not remarkable for any fort of manufaiSlure, its trade confiiling chiefly in thofe articles which are its natural produce. This county is divided into five lathes, which are fubdivided into fouraeii bailiwicks, and thcfc into fixty eight hunOri-Js. A lathe is a divifion peculiar to Kent and Sufi'i-x, and confids of two or more baili- wicks, as a bailiwick docs of two or more hundreds Kent lies partly in thediocefe of Canterbury, and partly in. that o; Rochcftcr. It contains lour hundred and eight p.«rilhes, two cities, and tv/enty-nine market-towns. 'I he two cities arc C.interbury and Rochefter; andthemarket- towns arc AOitord, Bromclcy, Cranbrook, Crayford, &c. 4 Canterbury liei fifty- fix miles fouth-eaft of London, iit 51 degrees 17 minutes north latitude, and in i degree 15 minutes of eaft longitude, reckoning from Green- wich obfervatory. It it fituated in a pleafant valley about a mile wide, furrounded by hills of moderate height and eafy afcent, and is watered in feveral places by the river Stour. This city it faid to have been built by one Rudhurdibrat, or Lud Rudibras, a king of the Briton*, about nine hundred years before the Chriftian lera. But that it was a place of importarice in the time of the Romans, appears from the Itinerary of Antoninus, from the coins dug up here^ and from remains of a military Ron>an way, leading hence to Dover and the town of Limme near Hithe. The cathedral church of this city was partly built in the time of the Romans, by Lucius, the firft Chriftian king of the Britons, and was ufed as a place of worfbip by thofe of the fame perfuafion, till they were driven beyond the Severn by the Saxons. About the year 600, Ethelbert, king of Kent, a pagan, being con- verted by St. Auguftine, he gave the latter this church, with his palace and the territories belonging to the city, upon which the archiepifcopal fee was removed hither from London. Auguftine immediately repaired the cathedral, and confecrated it by the name of Chrift Church, but in ion, it was plundered and burnt, with the reft of the city by the Danes. King Canute having repaired it, prefented to it his crown of gold, but in 1043, '' ^'^ again much injured by fire, ArchbiOiop Lanfranc afterwards totally rebuilt it, as well as the palace, and dedicated it anew to the Holy Trinity ; but in the reign of Henry the Firft, it was again dedi- cated in prefence of the king and queen, David king of Scotland, ::nd many of the bifhops and nobility of both kingdoms, by the name of Chrift Church. In the year 1174, it was once more deftroyed by fire, but was begun to be rebuilt in the reign of king Stephen, though not completed til! that of Henry the Fifth, This Cathedral, before the Reformation, had no lefs than thirty-feven altars. Here lie interred the bodies of Henry the Fourth, and his queen, Joan, befides thofe of fix other kings, Edward the Black Prince, and other eminent perfonages. St. Auguftine, with the feven archbilhops that immediately fucceeded him, lie buried in one vault, on a marble in which were engraved the following verfes. Septem funt Angli primates & protopatrei^ Septem reftores, feptem cxloque triones; Septem cifternse vitae, feptemque lucernae; £t feptem palmx rcgni, feptemque coronK, Septem funt ftellx, quas hxc tenet area cellse. In this church was a (brine of Thomas Becketj archbifliop of Canterbury, fo rich, by the offerings made to it for feveral ages, that, according to the ac- count ol rlie celebrated Erafmus, the chapel glittered all over U'lth jewels of incllimable value, and through the whole church there appeared a profufion of more than royul f,>lcndor. At the general diflblution of religious houfes, the plate and jewels belonging to this tomb only, fill 'd two great chefts, each of which re- quired eight men to remove it. The 33* THE M O E R N [Fa'I ci»' ii The cathedral it a noble Gothic pile, in the foiin with money which they had raifeJ from fpoiU taken in of a croft, five hundred and fourteen foot long, fevcnty four foot broad, and eighty foot high (rbm the aiea of the nave to the canopy, Undrrneatli is a large church of foreign Proteftants, given firft by queen Elizabeth to the Walloon!, who flcJ hither from Artois and other provincei of the Netherlands, during the time of the pcrfecution in thofe parts. The houfes of the preben- darie*, with other buildings, form a fpacious cluR-. France. It confifls of twenty-one arches, and ii one of the beft bridges in England, next to thofe of London, WeftminAcr, and Blaclt-triars. For kccpliif; this brid;;c in repair, certain lands were appropriated by aifl (.i parliament, in tlie reign of king Richard the I liiiil, and by two otiier adls in the reign of queen Llizabctli. In fcveral of the creeks of the Medway, wiiiiiii ilie jutifdiaion of Rocheflcr, tlitre is an oydcr-fifhay, ;t The buildings of this city are neither grand nor j prifent in a very floiiridiing condition, whieh nniy be elegant, but there is a good market-houfc, over which occupied by every pcrimi who has fcrvcd fcvcn years •re apartments where the magiftrates tranfaifl the afFairs ! apprentieefhip to any fi/hcrman or dredger that is free of the corporation. Befldes the cathedral, here arc "f the city. fixteen parifli churches, with a frec-fchool, and three charity-fchools, for fifty-eight boys and fixty-fix girls. Here are aKb feven hofpitals, one of which, called Bridewell, is a houfe of correction, and a place for the reception of poor townfmen's boys, Here is a noble conduit, ereifled by archbithop Abbot, who died in 1633, which is of great benefit to the city. The name given to Canterbury by the Romans was Duroveroum and Darvcrnu^n, which fomc derive from the Britifh word Durnhtrn, which is faid to fignify a rapid river, and to have been applied to this town on account of the impetuofity with which the Stour flows through it. This city was furrounded by ftrong w.ills, chiefly of flint, and fortilied by a great number of tower;, a deep ditch on the out-fiJc, and a rampart within. Here alfo was a caftle fuppofed to have been built by the Saxons, a part of which is ftill vifible on the fouth fide of the city. The two gates of a monaftery dedicated to St, AuguHiiie, yet remain, and are both very ftately. This monaftery, which occupied a great deal of ground, and the fite of which is furrounded with a very high wall, was for fome time the burying- place of the kings and archbifhops. Rochefter is fituated in a valley on the eaft of the Medway, at the diftance of twenty- nine miles from London, and next to Canterbury, is the mc.ft ar.cicnt fee of a bifliop in England. It is a fmal! city, con- fifting chiefly of one broad, but ill-built ftrcct, and having no more than one parifli church and the ca- thedral. The town is nearly furrounded with a wail, of little ftrength, on the fouth cad and weft fides of which are large fuburbs. Some part of an old caftle, faid to have been built by William the Conqueror, is yet {landing, and ufed as a magazine. Many lands in the county are ftill held by tlie tenure of caille-guard, or upon condition that the tenant fliouid mount guard in his turn. At prefcnr, however, a compufiliuii \i taken for this fcrvicc, -nd the payment of it is ftriotly I received its name on account of the great number ef The caftlc at RcchcHer is fuppofed to have bicii built by William the Conqueror, and the cathedral by Ethelbert, king of Kent, who dedicated it to St. Andrew, and made Rochefter an cpifcopal fee. 'i he latter of thofe buildings was repaired in the time of William the Conquiror, by Gur.dolph, bifliop of the diocefe, who is faid to have been (killed in architciilure. On the north fide of the north-weft tower of the cathedral, is the cHigy of the prelate j and here aic walls four yards thick, the remains of a great tOAtr which has been denominated from him. The ancient military way, called Watling ftrect, which crolTcs Kent from Shooter's Hili to Dover, runs dire£lly through this city. On the oppofite fide of the river lies Chatham, a fuburb to Rochefter, and a ftation for the royal navy. The dock at this place was b:gun by queen Llizabeth and has been fo much improved by her fucccflbts, tliat at prefent it may be efteemcd the moft com-dctc aifeiial in the world. The houfes of the commifTioncrs and other officers arc in general handfon.e, and the public buildings even magnificent. This important ftatiou is defended by two caftlcs, which arc thofe of Upnor and Gillingham, The former ftands on the weft fiJe of the river, and was built by queen Elizabeth. Its platform carries thirty-fcvcn guns, that command two reaches of the river, Gillingham caftle is alfo well furniflied with artillery, there being no lefs than a' hundred and fcventy cmbrazurcs for cannon. On a point of Shcpey ifland, where the Weft Swalc of the Medway falls into the Thames, ftands the fort of Sheernefs, ercfled by Charles the Second, fiere is a line of cannon, facing the mouth of the river, with good apartments for the cfEcers of the ordnance, navy and garrifon. Here is alfo a yard and dock, as an appendix to Chatham, The chief town in Shepcy is Queenborough, a mean dirty place, the inhabitants of which fubfift entirely by fiftiing. This ifland, which exafled. Upon a day appointed, a fl^g is hung out from the caftle, and all tenants who do nut then appear, and pay their quit-renis, ;'.r: lial.lc to have their rents doubled at every tide of the Medway. The beft buildings in the place, except the churches, ate the town houfe, and a charily-fchool. A mathe- matical fchool'was founded here in the reign of queen Anne, by Sir Jofeph Williamfun. Here is a bri'ge over the Medway, built in the n'.gn of Henry the Fourth, by Sir John Cobham, and Sir Robert Knowles, flieep ufually fed here, is thought by Camden to have been the Toliatis of Ptolemy. In the marfliy parts of the ifland are feveral tumuli, called by the inhabitants cotertis, in which fome Danifli oflicers arc fuppofej to be buried. Proceeding along the north coaft of Kent, f.'om the mouth of the Thames, the firft town of noie is Mi'hon otherwife Middlctown, fo n^imed from its fituaiion in the middle of the country, reck>.ning frcm Dcptfo.-d to the Downs. It ftands upon a branch of the Thairej called II :; Kngland.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. m called the Eaft Swale, about forty- four milei from London. Here is a great fifliery for oyftert, nteeined the beft in Kent, of which vaft quaiititiei > e iini to the capital, Faverfltam is fituated forty.eight miles fuuilfoaft of London, in the pleafanteft part of 'he county, having the cunvcniency of a creeic that communicates with the Eall Swale of the Mcdway, and in navigable for hoys. The town confills chiefly of one long broad flreet. From this place the London markets are fup- plied with abundance of applet, cherries, and the beft oytlers for ftewing. Of the latter of thefc articles the Dutch take fo great a quantity, that an incredible fiumber of men and boats is employed here in the winter to dredge for them. It is computed that the value of the oyfters taken annually from Faver(ham by the Dutch, amounts to two thoufand, or two thpufand five . hundred pounds, at the iirft purchafe, A few years ago this town was notorious, for running wine, brandy, tea, coffee, and other goods, from France and Holland, and likewife for exporting wool, by means of the Dutch oyller-boats. This town is of great antiquity, and appears to have been a royal demefne in the year 802, when it was called in king Kenulph's charter, the King's Little Town. In 903, king Athelftan fummoned a great council here, in which feveral laws were enaded. Here alfo a ftately abbey was built by king Stephen, who< with his queen Maud, and their fon Euftace, lies buried in it. At prefent, the only remains of this abbey are two mean gate-houfcs. Reculver, the Regulbium of the Romans, ftands on t\t fea fide about eight miles north-eaft of Canter- bury. From the great number of Roman antiquities which have here been difcovered, it appears to have been a very confiderable place in former times. It it faid, that about the year 205, the emperor Severut built here a caftle, which he fortified againft the Britons ; and that Ethelbert, one of the kings of Kent, crciSled at this place a palace, the compafs of which is yet vifible, from the ruins of an old wall. In the neighbourhood of Reculver begins the ifland of 'I'hanct, which occupies the north-eaft corner of the county, and is formed by the fea and the river Stour. This was the firft place given to the Saxons by the Britifh king Vurtigefn, when he requefted their afliftance againft the Scots and Pi£ls ; and here it was that the Danes commenced their ravages in England. On the eaftern extremity of the ifle of Thanet, is the point called the North Foreland, which is declared by a£l of parliament to be the moft fouthern part belonging to the pou of London; the jurifdi£lion of which, according to the fame a£V, extend north- ward to a point called the Nafe, on the eaft of Eflex. All the towns and harbours between London and thofe places, whether on the Kentifli or Eflex fliore, are confidered as members of the port of London. Among other fmall towns in the ifle of Thanet are Ramfgate, and Margate, whither company reforts much in fummer, for the benefit of fea-bathing. The town of Sandwich is fituated at the bottom of a bay, near the mouth of the river Stour, feventy No. 28. ' miles diftant from London, This is one of the cinque* ports, hut the harbour has been for many years fb choaked up with land, that it can receive only rm.-.-l veflcls. The town was once furrounded by a wall) which id ftill Itanding on the north and weft fides. On the fuuth and eaft it is fecurcd by a rampart and ditch. It fupplics the London markets with carrots, and the fcedlmen with the greater part of their ftock for the kitchen garden i but the chief trade of the town confifts in (hipping and malting. Before Sand- wich gates are two Roman tumuli, and fouthwanI» on the fea-ihore, are fix large Celtic tumuli. About a mile north of Sandwich on the bank of the Stour, lies Richborough, the Rutupic of the Romans, in whofe time it was a flouriOiing city. Before the port was choaked up with fand, it was alfo ii famous harbour, and was the place where the Roman forces ufually landed, as well as embarked for the continent. Here the Romans built a ciftle, which was deflroyoJ by the Danes ; as was likewife the ancient town, the fitc of which is now a corn-field, where, when the corn it grown up, the courfe of the feveral flreets may cafily be difcovered, by the crop being thinner than in other places. On three fides the walls of the city arc almofi entire, and in fome places twenty- five or thirty foot high, without any ditch. Some veftiges remain of the walls of a tower, built with flints and long bricki, of the old Britifh form, and cemented with fand in fuch a mar iter as to be rendered infeparable. Deal is fituated in the eaft of Kent, feventy-twa miles diftant from London. Here almoft all foreign (hips, bound to and from London, and foreign parts, by way of the channel, generally ftop; if homeward bound, to difpatch letters notifying their arrival in the Downs, and to fet paflengers afhore } if outward bound^ to take in frefh provifions, and to receive their laft letters from their owners and friends. This town has a caftle for the fecurity of the coaft, which is alfo defended by one at Walmer, on the fouth, and the caftle of Sandown on the north, all built by king Henry VIII. The latter of thofe caftles confifts of four lunettes, of thick arched ftone- Work, with many port-holes for great guns. In the center is a large round lower, with a cittern at top, and underneath is an arched cavern, bomb proof. The whole is en- compaflcd by a fofle, over which is a draw-bridge. Here Julius Csefar it fuppofed to have landed, in his fecond defcent upon Britain, on the a6th of Auguft. The fea-fhore at this place is thrown up into long ridges, like ramparts, which fome imagine to have been done by the wind, but Camden fuppofes to have been the work of Julius Casfar; and this opinion feems to be favoured by the nam? of Roini't w«rk, the appellation by which the neighbouring in- habitants diflinguifh them. In the fouth- eaft corner of Kent is a promontory, called South Foreland, which fhelters the coaft on that quarter, as does North Foreland on the other. Between thofe two promontories lie the Downs, which are fo much ufed as a road for (hips. This ilation is alfo iheltered by a natural bank, called Goodwin Sands, 4 O run- 334 THE MODERN [Uvurr. i ! I' 1 running ptralltl to the fliorr, at the diftince of a Icigue and a half from it, Dover i* fttuated on the fea (hore, fevcnty-one mile* from London, in th'. narrowed part of the channel, which feparatei England from France i the cliflfi of Calaii being only ten leagues dillant. The town flandi under a femicircular range of chalky cliffi, and confifli chiefly of one Arect, near a mile in length. It wu formerly furrounded by • wall, in which were ten gatet, but no veftigei of either now remain. The extremitiei of the cliflTi are very lofty, and the harbour ii farther fecured by two pierii but it ii fit only to receive fmall velTels, and not even fuch, except at high water. Above the pieri it a fort with four baftioni, and on the fummit of the cliff are the remains of a caftle, faid to have been begun by Julius Csefar, and finifbed by Claudius. The am of the fortification occupies thirty acres of ground, and the walls are yet JIanding, though moft of the works are deilroyed. Here are likewift the remains of a royal palace and chapel, with ftablea and other offices, from the ruins of which it appears that the buildings had been mag- nificent. One part of the remaining fortification is of a circular form, in which is an old church, in the figure of a crofs, faid to have been built by Lucius, the firft Chriftian king in Britain, with fome fragments of the Roman buildings that had fallen into ruins. The caftle is fupplied with water by a well three hundred and fixty foot deep, faid likewife to be the work of Julius Cxfart whence the water is raifed by a wheel. In the fame caftle are two very old keys, and a brafs trumpet, fhaped like a horn, faid to have lain ftnce the time of Julius Csefar. Here is alfo a brafs gun, reckoned the longeft in the world, and of curious workmanfliip, which was prefented by the ftates of Utrecht to queen Elizabeth, and is called her pocket- piftol. It meafures twenty-two foot in length, re- quires fifteen pounds of powder, and, it is faid, will carry a ball feven miles. The greateft curiofity in this town, however, is a Roman pharos, or watch* tower, ftanding at the weft end of a church fuppofed to have been built by king Lucius. Upon a rock oppofite the caftle are the remains of another Roman watch-tower, called Bredenftone, and by the vulgar, Devil's Drop, from the ftrength of the mortar. In this place the conftable of the caftle, who is always lord-warden of the cinque-ports, is fworn into his office. Dover is one of the principal cinque-ports; and hence our packet-boats, in time of peace, go twice a week to France and Flanders. Folkftone is fituated within two or three miles of Dover. It has a harbour fur, fmall fhips, and feveral hundred filhing boats belonging to it, which are em- ployed at the feafon in catching mackarel for London. About Michaelmas the Folkftone barks, with others from the SufTex (hore, fail to the coaft of Suffolk and Norfolk, to catch herrings for the merchants of Yar- mouth and Leoftoff, confiderable market-towns of thofe counties. From the great number of fncient coins and bricks frequently found about Folkftone, it appears to have been a place of note in the time of the Roititni. It alfo flo^rifhcd under the Sixons, when it had fue churches, four of which were dtttroyvd in the rei^n of Edward theConfeflur, by earl (Godwin and his font. In the fouth part of the town, there wss a i-aftle built by Eadbald, king of Kent, above a thoufand years ago, which falling to decay about the year ic6S, a fort was ereAcd upon the hinc foundation, out of the materials of the old caftle ; and the ruini of thit fort are yet vifible. On a hill in the town, ftlll called the Caftle-hill, there was a watch-tower, now in ruins, A little fouth from Folkftone, upon the fea-fliore, in a bottom between two hills, ftands a caftle, called Sandgatc Caftle, built by king Henry the Eighth, to defend the fifhing craft from privatrers in time of war, and at prefent it mounts fixteen guns. Hithe lies fixiy.feven miles from London, and is a cinque-port) but the harbour is at prefent almoft entirely obftraiEled with fand banks. This town had anciently five parifti-churchcs, which are now reduced to one. Here are two hofpitals, and a chariiy-fchuol for thirty-eight boys. Here the captain of the Turna- cenfes had his ftation, under the count of the Saxun (horei and between this place and Canterbury is a paved military way, called Stoney-fttrtct, which is obvioufly a Roman work. At a little diftance from Hithe is the fmall town of Limme, where, upon the fide of a hill, are the remain* of a caftle, which included ten acres of land t and almoft to the bottom of the marflies the ruius of Roman walls may be feen. There is the ftrongeft reafon to conclude that this was the Portus Lemanis of the Romans, though the port is now choaked up with fand. It ftill retains the horn and mace, with other tokens of its ancient grandeur. Several coins and other Roman antiquities have been found in this neigh- bourhood ; and Limme formerly was the place where the warden of the cinque- ports was fworn. Rumncy, diftinguiftied by the name of New Rumney, ia another of the cinque-ports, and is diftant from London feventy. three miles. This town (lands on a gravelly hill, in the middle of a marfhy track of coun- try, twenty miles long, and eight broad, called Rumney Marfh. The inhabitants fubfift chiefly by grazing cattle in the marlh, which contains between forty and fifty thoufand acres of firm fruitful land, the richeft pafture in England. This track is fuppofed to have been once covered by the fea. Being very unwholfome, it is but thinly inhabited, though it in- cludes two towns and nineteen parifhes, to which great privileges have been granted. In this marfh great trees are often difcovered, lying under ground, as black as ebony, but fit for ufe when dried in the fun. Among the more interior towns in this county is Afhford, or Efliford, which takes its name from a neighbouring ford over a fmall river called the Kfh, near the head of the Stour. It ftands fifty- feven miles from London, and has a large church, which had formerly been collegiate. Wye is about the fame diftance from London as the preceding town, and is fituated on the bank of the river uiiiiini, 4(1 fne e reign s foni. c builc yciiri c6S, a of the it fort led the uini. fliore, called th, to >f war. Enolano.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. iU ri¥tr Stour, over which it hai ■ bridge. The church •t thi( place had likewiTe once been collegiate, MaidHone ii fituated nearly in the center of Kent, upon the bank of the river Mcdway, It ii a pleafant, large, and populoua town. Here the courta of juftice are alwayt held, at are likewife, for the moft part, the county affitei, and cle£lioni for knight* of the ihire. Thii town, however, !• but one parifli, of which the archbifliop of Canterbury ii reAor, it being one of hii peculiar!, and ferved by hit curate i but there are two parifli churche* ^ in one of which, dedi- cated to St. Faith, fome Dutch inhabitant* have divine fervice performed. Here i* a fine ftone bridge over the Medway, ercAed by an archbifliop of Canter- bury. At this place the river Len fall* into the Medway { the tide flow* quite up to the town, -lad carrie* barges of flxty tons. Maidftone wa* an- .iently reckoned the third among the principal citie* of Britain. It appears to have been a Roman ftation, and Camden fuppofei it to be the Vagniacc mentioned by Antoninus. Near Aylesford, about four miles north of Maid- flone, under the fide of a very high chalky hill, ii a heap of huge flonei, fome flanding upright, other* lying acrofs, called by the people in the neighbour- hood Kett't, or Keith-coty-houfe. It i* fuppofed to be the tombs of two Danifli princes, killed here in battle. Tunbridgc, or the Ttwn o/BriJga, was thui named on account of its bridges, of which it had five} one over the Medway, and the red over diiTerent branches of that river. It Hands twenty-nine miles from London. Moil of the houfcs are ill builc, and the ftreets wurfe paved. Here is a free-fchool, cre£led by Sir Andrew Judd, lord-mayor of London, a native of this place, who appointed the Skinner's Company truftees of the charity, on which an elhte was fettled by parliament, in the reign of queen Elizabeth. About four or five miles fouth of the town are Tunbridge Well*, fituated ' at the bottom of three hills, called Mount Sinai, Mount Ephraim, and Mount Pleafant, on each of which are good houfcs, and fine fruit gardens { but the wells are fupplied from a fpring in the neighbouring parifli of Spelhurft. The waters of thefe well* is a chalybeate, and reputed of great efficacy 'n weaknefs of the bowels, and fomS other chronical difeafes. The principal well is walled in; and running from it are two paved walks, in one of which is a long covered gallery for a band of mufic, and for the convenience c' the company in wet weather. Here is likewife a row of fliops and coiFee-rooms, with a public room for dancing. There is a good market on the other fide, and behind the wells is a chapel of eafe to the parifli church, where divine fervice is performed twice a day during the months of June, July, and Auguft, which is the feafon for drinking the waters. Seventy poor children are maintained here, by the contribution of the company at the wells, by which the chaplain like- wife is chiefly fupported, Wrotham is twenty-five miles diflant from London, and in the church are fixteen flails, fuppofed to have ■hetn made for the clergy attending the arch- bifliop of Canterbury, who formerly hid • palac* here. Gtavefend !* fituated upon the Thames, oppofit* Tilbury Fort, in Eflex, at iht diftance of twenty- two mile* from London. King Richard II. granted the inhabitant* of Gravefend and the fmall adjacent town, called Milton, the fole privilege of carrying paflenger* by water hence to London, at four pence the whole fare, or two pence a- head, which wa* confirmed by Henry VIII. but now the far* i* nine pence a head in the tilt boat. Coache* plf here at the landing of pafliinger* from London, to carry them to Rochefter. All outward bound fliip* are obliged to anchor in thi* road, till they have been vifited by the cuftom-houfe officer*. For thi* purpofe a centinel at a block- houfe gives notice by firing a rouflcer. A* the veflel* outward bound generally take in provifions here, the place is full of feamen. The towns for feveral mile* round Gravefend are fupplied by it with garden-ftuflT, of which great quantities are alfo fent to London, where the afparagus of Gravefend is preferred to that of any other place. Woolwich ftand* likewife on the river Thame*, at the diftance of nine mile* from London. It i* ren« dered confiderable by a dock, the oldeft in the kingdom, and by a gUn-yard, called the warren or park. In thi* dock more fliips have been built, than in an/ other two dock* in the kingdom. In the warren, artillery of all kinds and dimenfions is caft. A com- pany of matroflet alfo is there employed to make up cartridges, and to charge bombs and gernadoe* for tho public fervice. At this place are many yards, ware- houfes, and magazine* of military and naval ftores{ and an academy ha* lately been eftabliflied for teaching mathematic*, with whatever relate* to the attack and defence of fortifications. A guard-fliip is generally flationed here, efpecially in time of war; and the largeft fliips may fafely ride at this place, even at low water. Charlton, a pleafant village on the edge of Black- heath, in the road from Greenwich to Woolwich, ia remarkable for a fair, held on St. Luke's Day, called Horn Fair. It confifts of a frolickfome mob, which, after a printed fummons, difperfed through the adjacent country, meet* at a place called Cuckold's Point, near Deptford, whence the crowd marches in proceffion through that town and Greenwich, to Charlton, with horns of various kind* on their heads. Thi* aflismbly ufed to be notorious for indecency and rudenefs, but is now kept in tolerable order by conftables, who are ordered to attend for that purpofe ; and a fermon is now preached at the church of Charlton in the fair-time, Greenwich ftands on the river Thames fix miles from London, and is a pleafant and populous town. Here was formerly a royal palace, ereded by Humphry, duke of Gloucefter, who gave it the nameof Placentia, It was enlarged by king Henry VII. and completed by his'fon, Henry VIII, who frequently refided here. The building having afterwards been much negleAed, king Charles II, caufed it to be pulled down, and began another flruflure, of which he lived to fee the weft wing 336 THE MODERN [EUKOPC. S'H j wing migniAccntly finiibeiJ, at the cxpdne* of thirty- fix thoufand poundi. In 1694, this wing, with nine acrai of ground belonging to it, wai appropriated for » royal hofpilal, fur aged and difabled feaincn. The ether wing wai begun in the reign of king Wil- liam, and finilhed in that of George II. The noble architedlure, the delightful fituiiion, and the ample endowment of thii edifice, are not to be equalled in any other inftitution of the kind. Itt hall, which ii very fuperb, wai finely painted by the late Sir James Thornhill. The number of fcamen main- tained in this hofpital at a time, amounts to near two thoufand, befidet one hundred boyi. Here is a noble park, planted and walled in by king Charles II. whence is a delightful profpefl of the city of London, the Thames, and the ad- jacent country. On the top of a deep eminence in this park, Humphry, duke of Gloucefler, began a tower, which was finifhed by Henry VII. but after- wards demoliflied, and a royal obfervatory ere£)ed in iti place, by Charles II. furnilhcd with J\ forts of mathematical inftruments, befides a deep dry well for obferving the flars in the day-time. This place is now commonly known by the name of Flam- ftead Houfe, from Mr. Flamftead, formerly aflronomer to the king. There is Aill a royal palace in this town, but it is a fmall building, converted into apartments for the governor of the royal hofpital, and the ranger of Greenwich park. The town of Greenwich is the chief harbour for the king's yacht*. Bromley is a fmall town, ten miles from London, on the road to Tunbridge. Of this pariOi the bifhop of Rochefter for the time being is reflor, who has a palace at a little dillance from the town, where thett is a mineral fpting, found to contain the fame qualities as the Tunbridge water. At this place is a college, which was created and endowed by bilhop Warner, in the reign of Charles II. for twenty widows of poor clergymen, with an allowance of twenty pounds a year to each, and fifty pounds to a chaplain. At Kefton, a village about three miles fouth of Bromley, is a fortification, the area of which is enclofed with very high treble ramparts, and deep ditches, almoft two miles in compafs. It is fuppofed to be a work of the Romans, but at what period is uncertain. Some obferving that the river Ravenfbourn rifes at Kefton Heath, near this camp, imagine it to be the fame which Caefar made, juft before he palFed the Thames in purfuit of Caifivolaunus ; and fuppofe that the name Kefton favours this conjeflure, becaufe the Britons called him Kzfar, and not Cxfar. But bthers, who think that Ciefar had not time to caft up ^ch a work, or that if he had fo employed his army, he would have mentioned the tranfadlion in his Com- mentaries, are of opinion this is the remains of the ancient Noviomagus, which Canden, and after him Dr. Gale, place at Woodcot, or Woocot, near Epfom in Surry. Dartford (lands upon the river Darent, fixteen miles from London, on the road to Canterbury and Dover. It ii a large handfome town, has a harbour for barges, and a go.Hi corn-market, which ii much frequrnid from all parts of the country. On the fouth fide of Black-heath, in a field callcJ Grtaf Slone Field, is an hufpilal named Mordaunl'i College, from the founder Sir Juhn Murdauni, a 'I'urky merchant. It ii a fpacious edifice, and appropriated for the reception of decayed metchanti. The number of penuoners is not limited; but the building and en- dowments will accommodate forty. About a mile and a half well of Greenwich, upon the river Thames, ftandi Deptford, a populous place, though not a market-town. Here is a royal dock and yard, for building fliips for the navy, with a number of ftore-houfes. At this place is a college, commonly called Trinity-hoiife of Deptford Strond, It was in- corporated by king Henry VIII, and defigned for thu reception of decayed pilots, mafters of (hips, or their widows. The men are allowed twenty (hillings, and (he women fixteen (hillings a munth. The inhabitants of Kent are faid to have been the fird in England that were converts to Chriliianity { and by their courage and refolution they retained fome privileges, by a capitulation with William the Con- queror) particularly a tenure called Gavelkind, By virtue of this tenure, every man polTcfTed of lands in the county is in a manner a freeholder, not being bound by copyhold, cuflomary tenure, or tenant right, as In other parts of England. Secondly, the male heirs, or in default of fuch, the female, (hare all the lands alike. Thirdly, the lands of a brother, if he has no legitimate iflue, are divided among the furviving brethren. Fourthly, an heir, at the age of fifteen, ii empowered to fell or alienate. Fifthly, though a perfon be conviAed of felony or murder, (he heir* (hall enjoy the inheritance. To this cuftoni alludes the Keniifh proverb, *' The father to the bough, and the children to the plough," But this privilege extends not to trcafon, piracy, outlawry, or abjuring the realm. This county fends eighteen members to parliament i two knights of the Ihire fcr the county, two member* for each of the cities of Canterbury and Rochelier, two for each of the boroughs of Maidftone and Qiieen- borougb, and two for each of the four cinque-ports, Dover, Sandwich, Hithe^ and Rumney. SUSSEX. I'he county of SulTex is bounded on the eaft and north-eaft by Kent; on the fouth by the Britifh Chan- nel ; on the weft by Hampfhire ; and on the north by Surry. It extend* in length from eaft to weft, fixty- five miles, and in breadth twenty. nine. The air of this county, along the fea-coaft, proves aguifh to ftrangers, but the inhabitants are in general very healthy. In the northern parts, the air is foggy, but not unhealthy: >nd i»pon the Downs, in the middle of the county, it is reckoned exceeding pure. The north part of SufFex abounds in woods, which not only fupply the navy dock* with much timber, but the iron work* with fuel, and likewife afford mate-. Er 3LAND.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 337 inmeriiili for charcoal, at which great quinliiiei *r . iniilr. The midille part of the county ii agreeably tlivcrfificd with meadow*, pafturci, grovri, and corn- fieldi, that produce wheat and barley i and in the Touth, toward! the Tea, are high hilii, called the South Downi, confifting of « fat chalky Tuil, fertile both in corn and gral'i, and ferding vaft multitudca of fheep, re- markable for very fine wool. In the Weald of Suflex li found the foflil called (ale, and lowardi the bordera of Kent great quantltiea of iron ore, for the working of which there are here many forget, furnacei, and water- milli. The principal rivert in ihii county are the Arun, (he Adur, the Oufe, and the Rothtr. The Arun rife* in a tra£l called St. Leonard's Foreft, near Horf- ham, whence running a few milei weftward, it turni due fouth, and paifing by Arundel, difchargei itfelf into (he Briiifh channel. By an aA of parliament pafled in 1733, a new outlet was cut to thia river, to improve its navigation, and It now carriei fliipi of •bout a hundred tons burden, at high a« Arundel, which liei three miles from the Tea. The Adur, etherwife called the Seeding, rifet like- wife in St. Leonard's Foreft, and running almoft parallel to the Arun, pafiet by Steyning and Brambcr, from the latter of which towns it ii fometimea called Bramber Water | falling afterwards into the Btitilh channel at New Shoreham. The Oufe confiils chiefly of two branchei, one rifing in the Foreft of St. Leonard, near the fpring of the Adur, and the other in the Foreft of Worth, north of Cuckfield 1 near which place the two ftreams uniting, run fouth by Lewes, whence after a farther courfe of ftven or eight miles, the river falls into the Britifli channel, and forma a harbour, called Newhaven. The Rother rifea at Rotheriield, fouth-eaft of Eaft Grinfted, and running towards the borders of Kent, divides into two ftreams, which again uniting, form an illand, called Oxney Ifland, and afterwards fall into the Britiflt channel near Rye. Other lefs confiderable rivers in this county are the Lavant, the Cuckroeer, the Afltburn, and the Aden, all which, as well as thofe above defcribed, are con- fined within the limits of Suflex. None of the rivers in Suflex will admit a veflel of five hundred tons ; and there are very few good ports in the county, for befides that the fliore is much in- commoded with rocks, there are many fand banks, which receive continual increafe from the fouth-weft winds, fo frequent on (his coaft, efpecially in the tvlnter. The moft general diviflon of Suflex is into fix rapes, a divifion peculiar to this county; and thefe are fub- divided into fixty-five hundreds. In this county are, one city, which i* Chichefter, two boroughs, namely, Bramber and Seaford, and fixteen market-towns, vis. Arundel, Battel, Brighthelmfton, Cuckfield, Eaft Grinfted, Haftings, HaylOiam, Horfliam, Lewes, Midhurft, Pctworth, Rye, New Shoreham, Steyning, Terring, and Winchelfea, Chichefter derives its name from a Saxon word fig- nifying the city of Cifla, and was thus called from No. 28. Cifla, the fecond king of the South Saxont, who re- built it aftei it had been deftroycd by fome Saxon and Norwegian piritai, and made it the capital of hit kingdom. It it fituated fixty-three miles from London, furrounded by the Lavant on every fide but the north, and it a neat compaA city, inclofed by a ftone wall, with four gaiei, anfwering to the four cardinal points. From each gate runt a ftreei, terminating in the market-place, which forms the center of the city, and is adorned with a ftone piazza, and a ftately crofs in the middle. The ftreets in general are broad, and the houfct uniform and well built. Though the river it not deep enough near the city to make a good harbour, yet the place enjoys fome foreign trade. Here it a great corn-market, and one of the moft noted cattle* markets in England, Prodigioua quantities of malt are made here, but the chief manufa£ture it that of needles. Chichefter has been the fee of a bifliop fince the time of William the Conqueror. Befides five parifh churches, it hat a cathedral, which, (hough fmall, is a neat building, and is adorned with a fpire much admired for its ftrengthand curious workmanfhip. Here is a bifhop's palace, lately rebuilt, which ii rather large than fumptuoui, and, with the cathedral, and the houfes of the prebendaries, occupies (be whole quarter of the city between the weft and fouth gates. Near Chichefter are feveral villas of the nobility and gentry, which command a delightful profpeA of tht adjacent country and the fea. In a flat low ground, on the weft of Chichefter, It the veftige of a Roman camp, called the Brill, which formi an oblong fquare, above half a mile long, and a quarter broad. It confifti of a great rampart with a fingle graff, and it generally fuppofed to have been the firft camp of the emperor Vefpafian, after landing in Britain. Not far from (he city, on the fame fide, is another camp, called Gonlhill, likewife of an oblong form, and reputed to be of Roman origin. On a hill north of the city of Chichefter, called Rook's Hill, or Roche's Hill, is an ancient camp of an orbicular form, above a quarter of a mile in dia- meter, conjedured to have been thrown up by the Danes. The town of Bramber lies forty-five miles from London, and it an ancient borough by prefcription. It it feparated into (wo parts, of which (he moft northerly, joining to Steyning, confifta of mean build- ings, and is half a mile diftant from (he other, which is diftinguiflied by the name of Bramber-Street. Bramber wat joined with Steyning in the writs for dealing burgefles to parliament from the year 1398 to 147a { but fince that (ime (hey have always cleAed as diff'eren( boroughs. Here is a church, bu( iiei(ber a fair nor marke(. Seaford lies fifty-five miles from London, and is a cinque port. It is a fmall fifliing town, defended by a fortrefs; and has a charity-fchool, but no market. Rye is diftant from London fixty-four milea, and it an appendage to the cinque port of Haftings, It enjoya the fame privilege with other cinque ports, and hat fent members to parliament ever fince the year 1368. This town it a peninfula, waflied on the weft and 4 P fouth I I Tt: H ? 338 THE fouth by th« fei, inJ on the eiR by the Roihtr, It fltndi on iha fide of t hill, ind lui « delightful profpcA, Th« houfci are well bum ,>t lirick, and ih* town ll populuui. Here ii one of the Itrgeft pitilh churchci In EngUnd, ind « free grammir-fihool. There ii alfn a fmill fetttemen. of French lefugeci, who are for the moA part fiftiermen, and have « minincr (if their own, paid by the archbifliop of Canterbury. Tliii place had formerly one of the mnll confiderablc harbourii between I'urtl'moutli and Doveri but it wai ifterwatili fo choakcd up with fand, that the fma"cll veflcl could hardly find entrance, and a great part of the harbour, gained from the Tea, wai turned into arable land. In 1761, however, an aiSt of parliamei t pafl'cd for making a commodioui harbour in thii pKice, Khich being carried into execution, vefl'tli of three hundred ton> buidcn and upwards, may now ride in it with iht- grejtelt latcty. The town ii well fupplied with water by pipea, from two liillt in the neigh- bourhood, Iti trade confilli in hops, wool, timber, kettlei, cannon, chimniy-backs, and all funs of fiOi. VVinchclfea liei feventy-one milei from London, and ii one of the cinque ports. It was originally built in the reign of king Edward the Firft, when an older town of the fame name, two or three milei to the fouth>eaft, was fwallowed up by the fea in a tempeft. The new town was hardly finiflied before it was deferted by the fea, after which it luft all its trade, and in lime its market. The ftreets are now almoft all turned into corn-fields or pafture grounds } and of three parifli churches there remains only the chancel of one, which is ufed for divine fervice. Upon the level relinquifhed by the fea, appear the veftiget of a caftle built by Henry the Fightb. , Battel Ilea fifty-feven miles from London, and is reckoned unhealthy from its low and dirty fituation. It was anciently called Epiton, and dek'ivcs its prefent name from the battle in which William the Norman defeated Harold, and obtained the crown of England. Near the town is a hill with a beacon on it, thjcnce called Beacon-hill i but its name formerly was Standard- hill, from having been the place where William the Conqueror firft ere£led his ftandard, the day before the battle of Haftings. The gun-powder made at this place is held in great reputation. Lewes is diilant fifty-five miles from London, and is a borough by prefcription. It is pleafantly fituated in an open country, on the edge of the South Downs, and is one of the largeft and moft populous towns in Suflex. The ftreets are handfome, and here are fix parilh churches. It was formerly defended by a caftle and walls, of which there are yet fome remains. From a windmill near the town is a profpeA, which for its extent is hardly to be equalled in Europe. Eall Grinftead lies twenty-nine miles from London, and is alfo a borough by prefcription. At this place the county afli^cs are fometimes held | and here is an hofpital, built in the reign of James the Firft, by the carl of Dorfct, who endowed it with three hundred and thirty pounds a year, for the maintenance of tbirty-one poor petfoni of tbii town. MODERN [LUROPV. Hoiftiam ia fituated thitty-five miles from London, and is a borough by prelciipliun. The county alTixct arc generally held m this town, and here ii the county jail, This IS one of the largcD towns in buflex 1 it has a fine church, and a well endowed frce-fchuul, Vafl numbvis uf poultry are bought up at the market of this place for London. Horfham is faid tu derive its name from Horfa, brother of Hengitt the Saxon, who probably had his rcfidenre here. At Uillinghuilt, fuuih- weft of this place, are Imne noble reniaini ul thu Roman military way, called Stone Street, which ran acrofs the county to Arundel, Petworth is diftant from London forty-fix miles, and is a large, populous, handfome town, fituated on a fine dry afceni, in a healthy air. In the neighbour- hood of this town are many beautiful feats, particularly a magnificent houfe which belonged formerly to Alger* lion duke of Somerfel. Arundel is fituated on the bank of the river Arun, fifty-fii'e miles from London, and is a borough by prefcription. Here is an ancient caftle, reckoned a mile in compafs, and faid to have been built in the time of the Saxons. Midhurft ftands on a hill fifty-two miles from Lon- don, and is alfo a borough by prefcription. Mere is a oretiy large town, pleafantly fituated on a hill, furrounded with feveral other hills. It is fuppofed to have been the Roman Midae. Brighthelmftone ftands at the diftance of fifty miles from London, upon a bay of the fea, in which there is good anchorage. It is a large populous old town, chiefly inhabited by fifliermen. It is cnclofed by A wall, fourteen or fifteen foot high, in which are four gates, built of free^ftone by queen Elisabeth 1 and oa the fide fronting the fea, it is fortified by another wall, in which are many port-holes for cannon. It hat feven ftreets, befides many lanes. For the convenience of the company that reforts hither for bathing, thera are two public rooms, one of which is not inferior in point of elegance to any of the kind in England. Thia place has fufFered greatly by inundations, not lets than a hundred and thirty houfes having been deftroyed in the fpace of forty years. Many barks are built here for the merchants of London and other ports ( and on the neighbouring hills are fed great flocks of fheep, the wool of which ia efteemed to be among the fineft in England. On the weft fide of Brighthelmftone hu been found a great number of human bones, whence fome conclude that a battle was fought here. Many are of opinion that Cxfar. in one of his expeditions into Britain, landed at this place. Between Brighthelmftone and Lewes are to be feen fome ranges of lines and entrench- ments, which bear ftrong marks of being Roman work. In the neighbourhood of Brighthelmftone an urn was dug up fome years fince, containing a thou- fand filver denarii, and fome of all the emperors from Antoninus Pius to Philip t and the altars of the Druids are no where more frequent than about this place. New Shoreham is diftant from London fiftyfive miles, a.-id owes its origin to the decay of Old Shore- ham, at prefent a fmall village north-weft of it. Thia UMopr. LonciiiM, y allixct county iflcx I It ■fchuul, market I tleriv* Saxon, nghuill, ul thtt hich rail milci, ntuJ on Ighbour- iculitity Alger* Enolano.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 319 by « the Thli i« • borough by prtfcription i and though moA of the town h» been waOicil iway by the lea, it ii Itill a large and populiitii place. It hai a guud hailiour for vcfleli of confiderablc burden, and many (hipi are built here, both fur war and trade. Thii place it generally fuppofcd to have been the Foriui Adurni of the Romini. The principal manuladturei of SulTex are cad and wiought iron. Thii county fendi twenty-eight mem ben to parliament) two knighti of the (hire, two member! for Chichvltcr, and two burgefl'ci for each of the following lownt, vib. Horfham, Lewei MiJ- hurlt, New bhnrcham, Hramber, Sicyning, Arundel, ■nd Kail Urinfted i bcfidei two baroni for each of the cinqut porci of Ry«i Winchcirea, Haltingi, and Scaford. CHAP. II. Tb* tlttniiti $/ Surry, Hampjhirt, Dtrfiijbiri, and Dtvtnfilri, SURRY is bounded on the cad by Kent, on the fouth by the county of SulTrx, on the weft by Berklhire and Hampfhire, and on the north by the river Thamei, which feparatei it from Middlefex. It extendi in length from ead to weft thirty-four miles, and from north to fouth twenty-one milei. The principal riven in thia county are the Thamei, the Mole, the Wcy, and the Wandle, the firft of which hai been mentioned In the preceding chapter. The Mole rifei near Okeley, fouth-weft of Darking, •nd running eaflward feveral milei, along the borderi of SuJex, forms an angle, and dircAi its courfc north- weft. At the bottom of a hill, near Darking, the fiream difappeari, and paflei under ground in a place called the Swallows emerging again, as is fuppofed, •t Letherhead, after a fubterraneous paflage of more than two miles, whence it has obtained the name of Mole, from working its way under ground. From Letherhead it continues it* courfe northward, till it falls into the Thames near Hampton-Court. Some writers however are of opinion, that the ftream of the Mole is altogether loft at the Swallow, and ii not the fame th.it rifet at Letherhead. The Wey takes its rife near Alton, a market-town of Hampfhire, and dire£iing its courfe eaftward, enters the cojnty at Farnham, whence it pafTes on in the fame direflion, to Godalming, where forming an angle, it runs north by Guilford, and thence north- caft, difcharging itfelf by two outlets into the Thames about a mile from Chertfey. The Wandle, or Vandal, rifes at Carflialton, near Croydon, and running north, with a fmali but clear ftream, falls into the river Thamei at Wandfworth, •bout four miles from London. The air and foil of the middle and extreme parts of Surry arc very different. Towards the borders of the county, cfpccially on the north fide, near the Thames, and on the fouth fide, in and near a vale, called Holmf- dale, that ftretchei for feveral miles from Darking to the county of Kent, the air is mild and healthy, and the foil fertile in corn and hay, with a fint mixture of woikIi and tieldi \ but in the midland part*, the ait It bleak ( and though there are lome delightful fpoia, the county in general confifti of open and landy j^roundi inierfperfcd with barren heaths. In lome placet there are lon^ ridgei nf hillt or downi, which alfi>rd nothing but warccni for rubbiti and harei, and parks lor Jeer. It has been obferved of the inhabiianti of the Interior parti of Suny, that they are generally of a pale com> plexion, refcmbliiig the naiivei of Ficardy in Krance t and that even the cattle here are of a li((hter colour than it ufual in other pant of England ( both which circumflancet have been attributed to the iiiAucnce uf the air and foil. Thit county produces great <|Hanriiies of box>woo4 and walnut-tree I and the downi, particularly thofe of Banftead, which ftretch thirty miles in length from Croydon to Farnham, producing • fhort herbage, per- fumed with thyme and juniper, the mutton here ii remarkably fweet. The county in general ii well provided with river fifh, and the Wandle is famous for plenty of fine trout. The county of Surry it divided into thirteen hun» dreds, and contains thirteen market-towns, befioei two ancient boroughs. It lies in the province of Canterbury, and diocefe of Winchefter, and comprifet a hundred and forty parilltes. The boroughs are thofe of Southwark, Blechingley, and Gattoni and the market-lowns are Chertfey, Crof* don, Darking, Epfom, EwH, Farnham, Godalming, Guilford, Haflemere, Kingfton, Rygate, and Wo- king. Of the borough of Southwark, and thofe pars of the county which lie in the neighbourhood of London* an account will afterwards be given in treating of the capital. Blechingley ii diftant from London twenty railei, and ii a borough by prefcription, but hai no market. It is a fmall town, and ftands on a hill on the north fide of Holmfdale, commanding a fine profpe£l into SulTex. On an eminence clofe to the town, there formerly ftood • caltle, the ruins of which are yet vifible. Gatton, faid to have been formerly a large town, but now » mean place, is fituated at the bottom of • hill, eighteen milei from London. It ia alfo a borough by prefcription, and has no market. Ryqate ftands on a branch of the river Mole, in tht vale of Holmfdale, twenty-four miles from London* and is furrounded with hilli. It is • borough by pre* fcription, and hai a handfome church, built of free- ftone. Here are the remaini of a caftle ereded in the time of the Saxonii particularly a long vault, in one end of which !i • room large enough to contain five hundred perfoni. It is faid that the barons who took up arms againft king John, held their private meetings in this apartment. Darking ftandi about the fame diftance from the capital, upon a fandy rock, on the b.?nk of the river Mole, near the Swallow. In the rock on which it ia fituated, feveral of the inhabitants have cellars. Thia % place Il"' i lit I'' u I ;it ! 340 THE MODERN {EUROPK. phce il noted for its trade in meal. It hai alfo the greateft market in England for lambt ; nor it ic ieft known for poultry, particularly fat geefe and capc.is, which are brought hither from Suflex. The remaini of the Roman military way, called Stone Street, are vifible at this place. The caufeway pafles through the church-yard of Darking, and is plainly traced for more than two miles fouth of Ok'!;ley. It coflfiils chiefly of flint-ftones and psbbles) Is near thirty foot broad, and five foot deep. Effingham, a fmall village north-weft of Darking, was anciently a town of note, and is faid to have con- tained lixteen p!«ri{h churches. Boxhill is Atuated in the neighbourhood of the pre- ceding town, and derivrs the name from its being planted for the moft part with bbx^trees, which are cut out into a great number of arbours, and formed into libyrinths. This hill, on account of the beauti- ful profpeA from it, ij generally the refort of much genteel company during fummer. Guildford ftaiids on (he river Wcy, thirty miles dillant from London, in the road to Chi''hefter and Portfmouth. It is a large handfome town, and has many good inns. Here is an alms-houfe called Trinity- hofpital, founded by George Abbot, archbifliop of Canterbury, and endowed by him with lands worth three hundred pounds a year. It confifts of a hand- fome quadrangle, built of brick, with a tower and four turrets ovr; the gate. This town had formerly a great manutaAure of cloth, of which there are ftill fome remains. By the navigation of the river We^, great quantities of timber and flour are fent hence to London. This wai a royal feat even in the time of the Saxons. F-.re the county aflizes are often held, and always the ele£lion for knights of the fliire. In the neighbourhood is a fine circular courSs for horfe-racet. Haflemere ftands on the borders of SulTex, forty-one miles from London, and is a borough by prefcription. Godalming lies thirty-four miles from London, and is the moft eminent town in the county for the maru- fadure of cloth, particularly mixed and blue kerfeys. Here is alfo a manufadure of ftockings. The beft whited brown paper in England is made at this place, which is likewife famous for liquorice, carrotv, and excellent peat for firing. The manor of Catte&all, near this town, was anciently held by the tenure of maintaining the king's laundrefles, who being called in old deed* by the Latin word merttrieet, fome writers have erroneoufly imagined, that the lord of this manor held his eftate ty leing ferjeant of the king's eoncubinei. There are inftances of fome other lands in the county, which were held by the fame tenure in the years 1234, and 1254. Farnham is diftant forty miles from London. Ir is a large po^^ulous town, containing many handfome houfes, and well paved ftreets. The caftle, which has been a magnificent llrui^ure, is now much decayed ; but is ftill fortified with deep motes, befides towers placed On th; walls at proper diftances, and has a fine park. Here is one of the greateft wheat-markets in England, and large quantities of good hops are pro- duced in the neighbourhood. The bifliops of Win- chcfter have generally refidcd here in the lummer, finre the reign of king Stephen, in a caftle built by that king's brother, who then was prelate of the diocel'e. Woking is twenty-four miles diftant from London, but not being fituated in any gieat road, is veiy little known. Here is a neat marlcet-houfe, built in 1665, at the charge of James Zoucb, efq. Cherifey is nineteen miles from London, and ftands on the bank of the Thames, over which there is here a timber bridge. This town communicates its name to the hundred in which it ftands, and which is exempt from the jurifdi£tion of the high-flierifl^, who muft diredthis writ to the bailifFof this hundred, an officer appointed by the exchequer, and who holds his plaee for life. At Cowey-ftakes, near this town, Julius Caefar pafled the river Thames from the fouth, and entered the territories of (.aflivelanus. This being then the moft noted ford, the firitons encamped on the north bank, with a defign to guard the paflage. Both the banks were fenced with ftiarp pointed ftakes, driven into the ground, as was likewife the ford with ftakes of the fame kind under water. Several of thofe ftukea were vifible in the time of Bede the hiftorian, who had feen them. He informs us that they were as thick as a man's thigh, and fo fecured with lead in the bottom of the river, as to be immoveable. From thofe ftakes the place derives its name. At Walton, in the neigh- bourhood, are the remains of a Roman camp, of about- twelve acres, with a rampart and trench, Epfom ftands on the north fide of Banftead Dowim* sixteen miles from London. It is a plcafa.-.t town, and has been long famous for medicinal purging waters, impregnated with alum. At prefent thofe waters are not in fuch repute as formerly} bt't a fait is extraAed from them, which is much efteemed as a cooling pur- gative. Ewel lies two miles north of Epfom, and is a fmall obfcure town, that contains nothing worthy of note. Croydon is diftant from London ten miles and a half to the fouth. In this town is a palace belonging to the archbifhop of Canterbury, near which ftands a church reckotKd the handfomeft and the largeft in the county, and containing feveral beautiful pieces of fculpture. The monument of archbifliop Sheldon, in particular, is efteemed one of the fineft in England. Great quantities of charcoal are made at this place. At Woodcote, in the neighbourhood, ate the remains of an ancient town, with feveral walls, built of fmall flints, fuppofed to be the Roman city which Antoninus calls Noviomagno, On the top of a hill near this place, called Bottle-hill, are the remains of a fquare Roman camp, with a fingie rampart; and on the top of a neighbouiing hill are veftiges of another Romun camp. Kingfton is fiiuated fourteen miles weft ot London, on the bank of the Thames, It was formerly called Morefurd, bf*. ohtained its prefent name froi.i having been the refidence of feveral Saxon kings, fome tf whom were crowned here. At this town there is a. wooden bridge over the Thames, which was formerly fupported by a toll, but in 1567 forty pounds a year were (y n I 6e/uni/ Ucn/ o/ TI4ORX.KCI:. bers to pirliamenti vi». two knights of the (hire, and two members for each cf the following boroughs, nainclyv Southwarlc, Gatton, HaAeUcre, Blechingly, Rfygate, and Guildford. ni i:-:-- HAMPSHIRE.. <*! >-... Hampfhire, or Hants, is bounded on the eaft by the counties of SufCtx and S'irry, on the fouth by the Knglifli Channel, on the weft by Dorfetfhire and VVilt- Ihire, and on the north by BerkOiire. Its length from north to fouth is fixty-four miles, and itS' bresdth thirty-fix. The chief rivers in this county are the Avon, the Teft, and the Itching, The firft of thefe rifes in Wiltfliirc, and pafibs through Salifbury, at which place it bejins to be navigable. Entering Hampihire at Charford, in the neighbourhood of Foidingbridge, it runs fouthward by Ringwood, to Chrift church, near which it receives the Stour, a confiderable river No. 29. wfar gave it the name of Venta Belgarum, as appears fron- a pavement of b/ick, and fome coins of Conftan- tine the Great, difcovercd ia digging the foundations ;f the royal palace. Winchefter is about a mile and ij half in ciieUit, and almoft furrounded with a wall built of flint, in which are fix gates communicating with the adjacent country. The buildings in general have neither grai^deiir nor beatity, but the ftreets are broad and clean. Ncir the weft gate of the city are the veftiges of a ftrong and (lately caftle, vthich tradition reports to have been ereded by the famous king Arthur, A. D. 523. This ancient ftrufiure wat demolifhed by Oliver Cromwell ; but the chape], which was a detached building, ilill remainr, and is the place where the aOizes are held for the county. Over the court of Nifi prius, above the judge's feat, hangs what is commonly called king Arthur's round table, which menfures eighteen foot in diameter. This piece of anti^ity is faid to be upwards of twelve hundred year* (landing, though fome affirm that it is o£ a^much later 4 Q. date. 3*0 ! T H R »* tRi CO cm int ful g" < dift Poi mat holj C« ' ' ' thrt fomi four agi fomi great Lorn the i , andi In horfe Ha miles is the . ' faaut ilcrc — -- .-w*~..._«« . ■■« hfvik whited brown paper in England is made at this place, which is likewife famous for liquorice, carrots, and excellent peat for firing. The manor of Cattelhall, near this town, was anciently held by :he tenure of maintaining the king's laundrefles, who being called in old deeds by the Latin word mertlrices, fome writers have erroneouily imagined, that the lord of this manor held his eftate by being ferjeant of the king's eoncubinit. There are inftances of fome other lands in the county, which were held by the fame tenure in the years 1234, and 1254. Farnham is diftant forty miles from London. It is a large populous town, containing many handfome houfes, and well puved ftreets. Th? caftle, which has been a magnificent llruflure, is now much deca; .'d ; but is ftill fortified with deep motes, befides towers placed 6n the walls at proper diftances, and has a fine park. Here is one of the grc4teft wheat-maricets in Eaglaodt and large quantitiei of good hops are pro- \M tut: anrnonnop of Canterbury, near which ftands » church reckoned th. handfomeft and the largeft in the county, and containing feveral beautiful pieces of fculptue. The monument of archbifbop Sheldon, in particular, is efleenied one of the fineft in England. Great qcantities of charcoal are made at this place. At WoodcoiC; in the neighbourhood, are the remains of an ancient town, with feveral walls, built of fmall flints, fuppofed to be the Roman city which Antoninus calls Noviomagno. On the top of a hill near this place, called Bottle-hill, are the remains of a fquare Roman camp, with a Tingle rampari ,; and on the top of a neighbouting hill are veftiges of another Roman camp. Kingfton is fiiuaied fourteen miles weft of London, on the bank of the Thames. It was formerly called Morefurd, but obtained i's prefent name from having been the refidence of fevera! Saxon kings, fome of whom were crowned here. At this town there is a wooden bridge over the Thames, which wfis formerly fupportcd by a toll, but iq 1567 forty pounds a year wcounty is woollen doth, partictiUrly ksrfeys. Surry fends fourteenmem- bers to parliament! vis. two knights of the (hire, and two members for each of the following boroiighs, namely^ Southwark, Gatton, 'HaAeiiere, iilechingly, Rrygate, and Guildford. HAMPSHIRE. Hampfliire, or Hants, is bounded »\ the eaft by the counties of Suflex and Surry, on the fou^h by the Englifti Channel, on the weft by Dorfetftiire and Wilt- ihire, and on the north by Berkfhire. Its length Gram north to fouth is fixty-four miles, and its^ brcadtii thirty.flx. The chief rivers in this county are the Avon, the Teft, and the Itching. The firft of thcfe rifes in Wiltfliire, and paffcs through Salifbury, at which place it begins to bo navigable. Entering Hampfliire at Charford, in the neighbourhood of Foidingbrldge, it runs f< uthward by Ringwood, to Chrift church, near which it receives the Stour, a conftderable river No. 29. from Dorfttfliire, and difchargei itfelf Into, the ^nglifh Channel. l^he Teft, or Tefe, called likewife the Anton, rifes in the north part of the county, and running fouthward, '-^rms feveral iflands at Stockbridge, whence palEng by Rumfey, it falls into an arm of the fea^' which reaches fevsral miles up the country, and i> called Southampton bay. The Itching, named alfo the Aire, rife* at Cbiltoa Candoveti, whence it runs fouth-weft 10 Winchefter, and thence dirtAly fouth, till it falls into Southampton bay. It was made navigable from Winchefter to. Southampton in the time of Willian^ the Conqueror. The air of Haro)>(hire is for ihe moft part pure and healthy, cfpecially upon the Downs, which ftietciv along the county from eaft to weft, dividing it nearly into equal portions; and it is obferved that the vapours, in the low grounds adjacent to the fea, are notr 0» pernicious as in many other countries. This couitty excels all; o'hers in ihaep and' hagst and is alfo famous for its honty, of which it i« Olid to produce both the heft and the worft in Englan)), in dilFcrent parts. U i* well fupplied with iea anki~ river fifli, as well as with game of all kinds { and afFord» fo much wood, particularly oak, that the greateft part. of the Britifli navy: is- buiit of its timber, Hampfliire, cxdufive of the lile of Wight, is divided] into thiriy^niae: hundreds. It Uios ^n the proviiKft^f Canterbury, itid diiaceft of Winohefler, and ooqtMoB. two hundred and fifty pariflits, . Befides the city «^ Winchefter, . there are in it the following markptc. towns,, vis. Alipctford, Alton, Andove{, Baftsgftoict,. Cbrift-Churcb, Fareham* Fordinghridgp, Qsl(*'ott,: Hawant, Xingfclew,. LymingdM^ Odiihaiiit Petcii'lcltf;. Portfmouth, Ringwood, Rumfey, Southampton, Stock- bridge, WalttuHo; and Whitchurch:. The city of Winchefter Hands on the rivci' Itchin,; fixtyi-fix miles fouth-nwft of teedpn. It is ». platin- of great antiquity, Mkd isr foppofed'tot^be the flMHh in° order of time, of the cities which- were founded bjn the Britons. It was afterwards qccupied by the Romwll*. who gave it the nartie of Venta Belgarum, as appetrs from a pavement of brick, and fome coins of Conftait-. tine the Great, difcovcrcd id digging the foundatioflt of the royal -palace. Winchefter is about a mile and a half in circuit, and almoft furrsunded with a wall built of flinty in which are fix gates '.'ommutticating with the adjacent country. The 'auildings in genccal have neither grandeur nor beauty, but the ftreets arc broad and clean. Near the weft gate of the city are the veftiges of a ftrong and flately caftle, Which tradition reports to have been eredHd by the famous king Artbur, A. D. 523. This ancient ftrufture was demoliflietl by Gliver Cromwell ; but the chapel, which was a detached building, ftill remains, and \i the place where the iflizes are held for th-" county. Over the ctturt of Nifi prius, above the judge's feat, hangs what is commonly called king Arthur's round table, which meafuret eighteen foot in diameter. This piec< of amiqtiity is faid to br upwards of twelve hundred years 1 ftanding, though fome alErm that it is o£'a>much later 4 Q. date. S4« THE M E N [EoRorr. \m W I'M ih- 1 ^ i ^■ If i • !:!4 1: ¥ date. The namei of the knights inrcriKed on the table, are much the fame u thofe we find in an old romance, called Morte Arthur. Here king Charles II. founded a royal palace ; but not being fini(hed at hia death, it afterwards lay neglcded. The fouth fide of thii edifice mearurcs two hundred and fixteen foot, and the weft frcnt three hundred and twenty-fix. The epifcopal palace here was built by bifhop Blols, in the time pf king Stephen. It was almoft furrounded by the river Itching, and wu adorned and fortified with fcTeral turrets. Being demolifhed by the parliament army in the reign of Charles I. it was rebuilt by bifhop Morley in the fucceeding reign. The city of Winchefter had no Icfs thin thirty-two parifh churches, of which at prcfent only fix remain. The cathedral is a large fabric, begun by bifhop Walkelin about the year 1070, and finifhed by William of Wickham. Inftead of a fteeple or fpire, this church has only a fhort tower with a flat covering. I'he length of the cathedral, including a chapel at the eaft end, is five hundred and forty- five foot ; and the breadth of the body and crofs ifles eighcy-feven foot. The font in this church was erected in the time of the Saxons. It is of black marble, of a fquare figure, fupported by a plain flone pedeflal. The fides are ornamented with fculpturet in has relief, reprefenting the miracles of fome faint belonging to the church. In this cathedral were buried feveral of tho Saxon kings, whofe bones were colledled by bifhop Fox, and put into fix gilded coffins, which he placed upon a wall in the fokith fide of the choir. Here lies the marble cofKn of William Rufus, which being opened by the foldiers in the civil wars under king Charles I. they found on his thumb a gold ring adorned with a ruby. Near the bifhop's palace is the college of St. Mary, commonly called Winchefter College, the foundation of which was laid in 1387, by William of Wickham. The allowance to the wardens, mafters, and ellows, is very confiderable, and they have handfome apartments adjoining to the college. Here is alfo a magnificent hofpital, called the Hpfpital of the Holy Crofs. By the inflitution of the founder, every traveller that knocks at the door of this houfe in his way, may claim a manchet of white bread-, and a cup of beer. The revenues of this hofpital were originally appropriated to the maintenance of a matter and thirty penfioners, for whom handfome lodgings were allotted; but the number is now reduced to four- teen, though the mafter has an appointment of eight hundred pounds a year. Winchefter claims the honour of having been the iirft place in England incorporated by a charter; and it is faid to have obtained this privilege twenty-two years before London. It was in the height of its profpeiity in the reign of king Henry I. when it abounded in magnificent edifices, and was enriched by the refidence of many noble inhabitants, among whom was often the royal family. It alfo flcurifhed at that time in the woollen manufaflure, which was removed to Calais by the king's command, in 1363. . The fee of Winchefter is one of the licheft in England, and was firll founded by KiiiegulfV, a king of the Merciiins, whofe fon tranflated hiihei ihe Ire of Dorchefier in the year 663. Its bifhnps, liefides being prelates to the moft noble order uf the Garter, are chancellors to the fee of Canterbury. In the cathedral at this place, was kept the Uoineboc (Doomf- day book) of king Alfred] and alfo that of William the Conqueror, till it was removed to Wc-ftniinfier Abbey. Odiham is fituaied forty-one miles from London, in the road to Bafingftoke. It is a corporation town, and was formerly • free borough of the bifhop of Win- chefter. Here was anciently a royal palace and a ftrong caftle, which in king John's time was defended for fifteen days, by thirteen men only, againft Lewis the dauphin of France, and the army of the barons. In this caftle David, king of Scotland, was kept prifo* in the reign of Edward III. Bafingftoke ftands at the diftance of forty-eight miles from London. It is a large populous town, and has a great market for all forts of corn, efpecially barley, and a confiderable trade in malt. The chief manu- facture is druggets and fhalloons. Kingfclere is pleafantly fiiuated on the Downs, bordering upon Berkfhire, at the diftance of fifty-two miles from London, and was once the feat of the Saxon kings of this county. At Silchefter, a hamlet, confifting only of a farm- houfe and a church, fituated north-ndon ; and Alresford ten miles farther : but neither of them contain any thing worthy of particular defcription. Petersfield is fituated fifty-five miles from London, in the road to Portfmouth. The town is populous, and being a great thorough-fare, is well accommodated with inns, Portfmouth derives its name from its fituation at the port or mouth of a creek that runt up a part of the coaft, which at high water is furrcunded by the fea, and therefore called Portfea Ifland. It is about four- teen miles in circumference, and is joined to the conti- qent by a bridge a little above the town. At this bridge there formerly flood a fmall cafUe, the ruins of which yet remain } and a town called Port Peris, now known by the name of Porchefler, which was then dofe upon the flrand ; but the fea retiring thither, many of the inhabitants followed it, and fettling below Port Peris, built Portfmouth. This town is diflant from London feventy-three miles, and is one of the principal harbours in the kingdom for the royal navy. At this place all our fleets of force, and all fquadrons appointed as convoys to our trade, homeward or outward bound, generally rendezvous. The mouth of the harbour, which is not fo broad as the river Thames is at Wefl- minder, is, upon the Portfmouth fide, defended by a caflle called South Sea Caflle, fituated about a mile and a half fouth of the town, and built by king Henry VIII. This caftle is fortified with a good counter- fcarp and double mote, with ravellines, and double palifadcs, befides advanced works to cover the place from any approach where it may be pradlicable. The mouth of the harbour is, on the Gofport fide, defended by four forts, and a platform of above twenty great guns, level with the water. On the land fide, the town is fortified by works raifed of late years about the docks and yards. Here are immenfe quantities of military and naval flores of all kinds. The docks and yards have tho appearance of a diilinft town, and the number of men conflantly roiployed in thtm it hardly ever lefs than a thoufand, Portfmouth being fituated fo near the level of the fea^ is full of dilchei, on which account the inhabitants are very liable to agues. The (Ireets are for the mofl part exceeding dirty, and the inns and taverns perpetually crouded with feamen and foldiers. Th6ugh the ti- jacent country abounds with all forts of provifions, the confumption of them it fo great, that they fell at a very high price j and what renders the fituation ytt more inconvenient, the town is badly fupplied with frefh water. The church of Portfmouth is a large hand(oili6 building, furnifhed with a tower, at the top of which a bell is rung, to give an account of the number of fhips that enter the port. From a wztch-houfe at the top of the fleeple, there is a fine profped of the vefTelt in the harbour, as well as of thofe at Spithead ; a point between Portfmouth and the Ifle of Wight, where fhips generallyride, both homeward and outward bound. So great has been the increafe of bufinefs at Portf- mouth of late years, that as the place does not admit of enlargement, a fort of fuburb has been built on the heathy ground adjoining, which is like to become more populous than the town, not only becaufe the fituation is more pleaf? ' \d healthy, but becaufe it is not fubjc£l to the laws of the garrifon, nor incumbered with the duties and fervices of the corporation. Gofport is fituated over againfl Portfmouth, on the weil fide of the harbour at its entrance. Though feparated from that town by an arm of the fea, it generally goes by the name of Portfmouth, and boat* are conflantly pafEng between them. Gofport it » large town, and has a confiderable trade. It it chiefly inhabited by failors and their wives, with the war* rant officers; and travellers moflly choofe to lodge here ; on account that every thing it cheaper and more convenient than at Portfmouth. Here is a noble hofpital for the cure of the fick and wounded feamen in the fervice of the navy. Fareham is fixty-five miles diflant from London, and is a pleafant town, but of little note. Southampton is fituated between the rivers Tell and Itching, at the diflance of feventy-eight miles from London, and is a place of great antiquity. It was greatly haraffed by the Danes, who took it in 980. In the reign of Edward I, it was plundered and burnt to the ground by the French ; but wat foon rebuilt in a more convenient fituation, and well fortified. At prefent the town is furrounded by a wall built of very hard flone, rcfembling thofe little white fliells, like honeycombs, that grow on the back of oyflers. Thefe flones appear to have been gathered near the fea, which nearly encompaffes one half of the town, and is fo deep, that fhips of five hundred tons burden have frequently been built here. To defend this part of the town from the violence of the waves, a flrong bank has been ere£led of what is called fea ore, a fub« fiance compofed of long and flender, but flrong <- menis, refembling undrefTed hemp. The principal (Ireet is near three quarters of a mile long, and one of the broadefl in England, well pared on if THE MODERN [Europi. fttg; and Henrjr, while purfuing Kin game, was caught by the hair of his head in ihr boughs ofalrre, in which fiiuaiion he died. Here is an oaic which was paled by king Charles the Second, u|)on a tradition that it was the tree which Sir Walter Tyrrel's arrow glanced when it killed Rufus. The country people have a tra- dition, that every Chriftmas day in the morning this oak puts out its buds, which wither before night. In the lime of the Romans this county was inhabited by the Regni and the Belgs. The former were a tribe of the ariicicnt Britons, and inhabited the fea> coaft, but whence they derived their name is not known. The latter were » people of Germany, who having pafled tb« Rhine, and poflbfled themftlves of pari of Gaul, failed over to this coaft, with a defign of plundering the inhabilantt, and returning with the fpoil: but finding the country an agreeable rcfidcnce, they diove th;: Bcitons from the inland part* of Hamp- ihire, as well aa from feme other adjacent counties, and were found in poflclBou uf the territories by Czfar when he made bis expedition into Britain. Befidet thefe, the northern part of this country was inhabited by a people called the Segonliaci, and the eaiiern by the Meanvari, where the lands are now divided into three dillinit hundreds, called Meanftoke, Eaftmean, and Weftmcan, from the name of their ancient inha- bitant*. The chief manufaAure here confifts in kerfey*, anili cloth, in which a good foreign trade is carried on, from the many port* and harbours with which the councpy. abound*. Hampfhire, including the Ifleof Wight, which willbedefcrihedafterwards, fenditwenty-fix membcrsta patliament : two knight* of the fhire, two ciiiaens fitc Winchefter, and two burgeflcs for each of the fb)la«r- ing corporation*, viz. Southampton, Portfmouth, New- port, Yarmouth,, Newton, Lymington, Chtift'churob^ Andover, Whitchurch, Petenficld, and Stoekbridge. DORSETSHIRE. Dorfetfliire i* bounded on the eaft by Hampfliirt, on the fouth by the PInglifli Channel, on the weft by Devonfliire and part of Somerfetfliire, and on the north by Wiltshire and another part of Somerfetfliire. It is fifty milek in length from eaft to weft, aid about forty in breadth. The principal rivers in this county are the Stour and thr Frome. I'he Stour rife* in Somerfetfliire, and entering Dorfetfliire, runs due north to Sturminfter- Nowton, a conftderable market-town, where making an angle, it run* nearly eaft- fouth -eaft, and quitting Dorfetfliire about five miles from Wiaiborn-minfier, falls into the Englifli channel, called Pool-harbour, in the neighbourhood of Waiham. Other lefs conftderable rivers of the county are the Piddle, the Lyddon, the Dulifll, and the Allen. The air in Dorfetfliire i* in general healthy: on the hil.'s it is fumewhat fliarp, but mild and pleafant in the valleys, and the country near the coaft. The foil is for the moft part extremely fertile: towards the north, which was formerly overfpread with forefti, thf 344 o» each fide, and ending in a very fine key. On th* fouth-eaft corner, near the key, is a fort with fome gun* upon it, called the tower, cttAcd in 154a. This t*wn kai a public ball in which the affiaa* are ufually kept I but it* chief orn*ment* are its churches, of which there arc five, befide* • French church. Here i* an hofpital called God's Houfe, and a free.fchool, founded by king Edward VI. A little north-weft of Southampton, at the hamlet of St. Mary'a, ftood an old Romaii town, called Clau- fentum, the ruin* of which may be traced aa far as the haven on one fide, and beyond the river Itching, on the odKr. The trenches of a caftle half a mile in cofflpafs, are alfo ftill vilible in St. Mary's Field. Rwmlcy ftands on the rivor Teft, feventy-^eight miles from London, in the load from Salifliury to South- aoipton. It i* an old town of conlUerable extent, and chiefly inhabited by clothiers. The church i* a noble pile, arched with ftone. It is. built in the form of a crofs, and ha* femicircular chapel* in the corner*. Ringwood i* Gtuatcd near the Avon, ninety-Gx mik* from London, in a valley that is frequently overflowed by the river, which here divides into feveral ilrcam*. It i* however a large, well built, and flou- rUhing town, having a good trade in druggets, narrow doth*, flocking*, and leather. Chrift-ckutch liea between the rivers Avon and Stour, a hundred mil** from London, and it a pleafant Ipwn. Itt chief man'«faAure* are filk flocking* and glove*. Fordingbrtdgc fland* on the rivet Avon, eighty- five mile* from London. Having fuficred greatly by fire, il i« at prefent an inconfiderable town. Lemington, or Lymington, ftands at the fame dif- tance {t0P\ the capital as the preceding within a mile of the fea, upon a bill which commands a fine prefped of the Ifle of Wight. The town la faaali, but popu- k>u(, and ha* a commodiou* quay. At this place are madegrdtt quantities of fait, which i» faid to be par- ticularly excellent for preferving flefli. . Havant is a. little town, between Portfmouth and Chichcfter about fixty. three miles from London, chieily confpicuou* fbr its market. Waltham, called alfo Bifliop's Waltbam, and by a corrupt abb^'cviation, Bufli Waltham, from a palace which the bifliop of Winchefter formerly had here, lies Sxty-five mileft from London. Except a charity- ichool, it ha* nothing elfe worthy of note. Between the eaft fide of the river Avon and South- ampton Bay, is a Fotefty called New Foreft, which is computed to be forty mile* in circumference. This large tra£l once abounded with towns and villages, in which were no Icfs than thirty-fix parifli-churchea ; but the whole was laid wafte by William the Con- queror, for the purpofe of hunting. It has been re- aiatked, as an inftance of the juft vengeance of Heaven, that in this fbreft, the monument of his oppreflion and cruelty, two of his fans, Richard and William Rufus, and. hi* grandfon Henry, loft their lives, Richard was killed by a peftilential blaft; William Rufus by ■n trrovr, which was fliot by Sir Walter Tyrrel at a England.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. Ui the land affiards good pafture for black cattle i and the rou(h«rn pans, which chiefly confid in fine downi, feed vaft numbers of flicep. In general the rivers afford plenty of fini ; but the tench and ecU of the Stour are particularly famous. The port- town* fupply the inhabitant* with all forts of fea-filh i and the rocks upon the coaft abound with famphire and eringo. Here are fwani, geefe, and ducks, without number, and great plenty of game. The county alfo abound* with corn, cattle, wool, hemp, and timber. There i* in thi* county a peninfula, called Portland Ifland, thr fea having formerly flowed round it, though the place is now joined Co the main land by a beach, called ChefliI Bank, vihich the furge has thrown -np. Thi* peninfula is hardly feven miles in compafs, and but thinly inhabited ; for (hough it affords plenty of corn and pafture, yet wood and coal are fo fcarce, that the inhabitants are forced to dry the dung of their black cattle for fuel. The land here is fo high, that in clear weather it gives a profpeft above half way over the Englifli channel. This fequeftered fpot is rendered inacceffible by high and abrupt rocks, ex- cept on the north fide, where it is defended by a ftrong caflle, which was built by King Henry VIH. called Portland Caflle, and another er«£led on the oppofite fliorc, called Sandford Cattle. Thefe two forts com- mand all (hips that come into the road, which on ac- count of its ftrong current fitting in from the Englifh and French coaft*, I* called Portland Race. The cur- rent* render this part of the fea always turbulent, and have frequently driven vefTels, not aware of them, to the coaft of Portland, and wrecked them on ChelTil Bank, On the two extremities of this bank are -light. houfes. The peninfula is famous for its quarried of excellent 'ftone, called Portland flone ; and the inhabitants were anciently noted for being the beft (lingers in Eng- land. Here is likewife another peninfula, fuppofed alfo to have been once fuirounded by the fea, and thence called Purbeck Ifland. It is fi'uated between Warham and the Englifh channel ; :nd befides Pur- beck ftone, furniflies fome fine marble, and the beft tobacco-pipe clay in the world. Dorfe'tfhire lies in the province of Canterbury, and diecefe of Briftol, and comprises two hundred and forty-eight parifbcs. It is divided into thirty-four hundreds, and contains twenty- two market towns, viz. Abbotft>ury, Bemifter, Berc-Regis, Blandford, Bridport, Carne-Abbey, Corfe-Caftle, Cramborn, Dorchefter, Everfhot, Frampton, Lyme, Melcomb- Regis, Milton, Pool, Shaftfbury, Sherborn, Stalbridge, ^.Sturmifter- Newton, Warham, Weymouth, and Wim- aborn-minfler. Cranbourn is fituated ninety-eight miles from Lon- <3on, in a fine fporting country, near a very largq fbhsice. It is a pleafant little town and well watered, Wimborn-minfter, or Winborn-mifter, flands be- tm^^n the rivers Stour and Allen, near their conflux, at tbe diftance of ninety-eight rr.iles from London. Thk is a populous, but poor town, and is chiefly fupported by knitting ftockings. The church, how-t No. a^. > ever is • noble edifice, built in the manner of ■ ca- thedral, a hundred and eighty foot long, with • fine tower in the middle, and another at the letk cnd| each of which is ninety feet high. In the time of the Roman* thi* town, called b/ Antoninus, Vindogladia, was one of the two winter ftations for their legions in thi* county, Dorchefter be- ing the other. The fummer ftation was a hill, called' Bradbury, diftant hence two miles, This hill is en- trenched with a triple ditch, and there is a folTe-way from it to the city of Old Sarum in Wiltfhire. King Etheldred, tbe brother of Alfred, lies buried in the church at this place, under a marble tomb, on which is the e.'figy of a king crowned, a half length, and the following infcription. ** In hoc loco quiefcit corpus S. Etheldredi ^e» gis Weft Saxonum, Mariyris, qui Anno Domini DCCCLXXII. XXIII. Aprilis, per manu* Danorum pagailorum occubuit." Pool is g engines, which raifcd the water of a well, about two miles off, to the height of above three hundred foot, and conveyed it it to a large ciftern in the middle of the town. Thefe engines, however, have fur fome time been difufed, and the inliabiiants hare dug pits at the doors of their houfes for preferving rain water, which not being fuf- ficient for a conftant fupply, the poor fubfift by bring* ing hither water in pails, or upon horfes, from Mot- comb. Shaftftjury was built by king Alfred about the year 880, as appears from the fullowing infcription upon a ftone, which Malemfl)ury, the hiftorian, informs us wai preferved here in his time : " Anno Dominicz inctrnaiionis Aelfredus rex fecit banc urbem DCCCLXXX. Rcgni fui viii." In this town was buried king Edward the Martyr, and a (hrine having been ere£icd to him in the church, the fuperflitious pilgrinis of thofe times refurted fo much hither, that the town loft its old name, and was for many years called St. Edward's Town. Sialbridge lies a hundred and fifteen miles from London, and is a fmall inconfiderable place ; as is likewife Cerne-Abbey, ninety-nine miles from th« capital. ^ Dorchefter is diftant from London a hundred anj twenty-three miles, and is fituated on a fteep afcent^ commanding a fine view of the river Frome, which lies towards the north. It is the county town, con- fifting chiefly of three ftrcets, which are well paved and clean ; and the houfes, though old and low, are yet regularly built, and in general of ftone. This town was once famous for a manufaAory of broad cloth and ferge ; but the former is now entirely loft, ana the ferge trade become very inconfiderable. The chief bufmefs of the place at prefent is breeding fheep, of which it is faid that no lefs than fix hundred thou- fand are fed within fix miles of the town. The ewes generally bring two lambs, which is afcribed to the wild thyme, and other aromatic herbage, that grows upon the downs here in great plenty. The flieep and lambs are purchafed by the farmers of Buckingbam- fhire, Bedfordfliire, Oxfordfhire, Kent, and Surry, to fupply the eaft of England. This town alfo fends great quantities of malt every year to the city of Brtf- tol, and is noted for excellent cakes, as well as for incomparable beer. Dorchefter is called by Antoninus, Durnovar.'a, and by Ptolemy, Durnium. In the time of the Romans it was one of the winter ftations of the legions quar- tered in thofe parts ; and at about a mile from the town they had a fummer ftation, now called Maiden- Caftle. It was then a camp, with five trenches, and included near ten acres of ground. In the neighbour- hood of this town the Romans had alfo an amphi- theatre, two hundred and twenty foot long, and a hundred and forty wide, now called Maumbury ; hav- ing on the top a terrace, which is ufed as a pub- lic walk, and commands a profpect of the adjacent country. The Btafon, ch nifcj '« to the nveyed it Tbefe difured, of their being fuf- by bring- rom Mot- Enoland.] GENERAL TRAVELLER; 347 rex fecit The I'he fimous Roman caufeway, called Ickening Street, leading from the town to Maiden Caftle, and the foundation* of an old Roman wall, that furrouii'' cd the town, are flill vifible, Thia town wai very confiderable before it wai deftroyed by the Danei ) and in the time of the Saxoni, there were two mints in it fqr the coinage of niuney. Mvlcomb, called Mclcomb-Regii, becaufe it was anciently the king's demefne, is dillant from London a hundred and thirty-two miles. It has four toler- able (Ireets, and moft of the houfes are built of flone, (hough not very high. It is feparated from Wey- mouth by a fmall river called the Wey. The port here, which generally goes by the name of Weymouth, is one of the bed frequented in the county, and is de- fended by Sandford and Portland cadles. There being here a bridge over the river, the inhabitants of Wey- mouth generally attend bufineft, as well as divine fer- vice, in Melcomb. Weymouth is fltuated low, but is a clean agreeable place. It formerly carried on a confiderable trade to France, Spain, Portugal, and the Weft-Indiea : the Newfoundland trade ftill flouriflies here j the wine trade is alfo in a profperous (late ; and the town has • large correfpondence in the country, for the con- fumption of its return*. Abbotibury ii diftant from London a hundred and thirty-three miles, and derives its name from an abbey, of which it was formerly the fcite. Frampton, or Fromiton, lies a hundred and feven- teen milei from London, and is remarkable only for its excellent trouti. Everihot is a little obfcure town, fltuated on the borders of Somerfetfhire, a hundred and twenty-three miles from London. Not far hence lies Bemifter, another inconflderable place. Bridport ftands a hundred and forty-five miles from London, upon a fmall river near the Englifh Chan- nel, and in the great weftern road. This town had formerly a good harbour, and was then a confiderable place i but a mortality happening, which carried oflF the greater part of the inhabitants, the harbour was fo much negleAed, that the entrance was barred by the fand which the tides threw up ; and though an a£l of parliament pafied in 1722, for rebuilding the haven and piers, it has not yet been carried into exe- cution. This place was once famous for the manufacture of ropes and cables ; but at prefent there is hardly any remains of this trade, or indeed of any other, though the foil between this town and Bemifter produces as > good crops of hemp as any in England. Lyme was thus called from a rivulet of the fame name that run by it ; and is alfo called Lyme- Regis, or King's Lyme, probably from its having been annexed to the crown, in the reign of Edward I. It is diftant from London, a hundred and forty-four miles. Here are fome fine houfes, built of free-ftone, and cover' ed with blue flate ; and the harbour is one of the beft in the Englifli channel, Thia town had formerly a confiderable trade, particularly to Newfoundland, fo that the cuftoms have fome years produced upwards of fixieen ihoufand pounds. The merchinti have lately began to trade in the pilchard fifhery with fuccef*. On account of the declivity of the town, the mer- chants are obliged to lade and unlade their goods at a place called the Cobb, a quarter of a mile diftant. This is a building of mafonry, and confifts of a firm ftone wall, that runs a confiderable way into the fea, and is of breadth fufficient to admit of ware-houfes and carriages on it, befides a houfc for the cuftum-houfe officers. Without this wall there is another of equal ftrength, carried round the end of the preceding, and forming the entrance into the port, which perhaps ii equal for fafety to any in the world. Some gum are planted at proper diftances, for the defence of the Cobb and the town. Milton, or Middleton, is fituated fouth-weft of Blandford, a hundred and ten miles from London. It has nothing worthy of note except its abbey, built by King Athelftan, and a great part of which ii, or was lately ftanding. Sherborn is fituated a hundred and eighteen miles from London, on the border* of White-Hart foreft, and in the road from London to Exeter. It i* an ancient town, and waa once a bifhop's fee, but never fent members to parliament. The houfe* here are computed to be above three hundred } the ftreet* are fpaciou*, and the town it divided into two parti by a fmall river, called the Parret. One part i* diftin- guiflied by the name of Sherborn, and the other by that of Caftle-town. Here wai formerly an abbey* the church of which is ftill ftanding, and ii a mag> nificent ftrudure. At the entrance from the porch lie interred Ethelbald and Ethelbert, both Saxon kings, who lived about two hundred yean before the Conqueft. This town had formerly a good trade in the medley cloth, biit at prefent its manufaAurei are buttons, bone-lace, and haberdadiery wares, with which it fupplies all the weftern parts of the king* dom. White-Hart foreft, abovementioned, is faid to have received its name from a white hart which wa* chafed in it by Henry III. The king was fo pleafed with the beauty of the creature, that he not only fpared its life, but ftri£lly commanded that no other perfon fliould kill it. Some time afterwards, however, it waa hunted and killed by one Thomas de la Linde, with feveral others. The king was fo much inCenfed at the intelligence, that he laid all their lands under u pecuniary mul£l, which to this day is paid yearly into the exchequer, by the name of white-hart filver. In the time of the Romans, Dorfetfliire was in* habited by the Durotriges, a compound Britifh word, fignifying a people who dwell by the water or fea-fide. At the firft fettlement of the Saxoni in Britain, this county was part of the Weft Saxon kingdom, and con- tinued fo till their monarch Egbert, haviiig fubdued the reft of the heptarchy, became king of England. Moft of the Saxon princei who fucceeded him, ad- miring the the beauty of this country, refided and were buried in it. Dorchefter fends twenty members to parliament; two of vrhich are knights of the {hire, and the reft bur- m I 1 ; :, Jn 1 11 1 I 1 J, 1 ■ ' i ii i ilf 348 T H E M O geflet for the following towns, each of which fcmli two ) nimcly, Dnrcheltcr, Pool, Lyme, Hriilport, Shaftlbury, Warham, Corfe Caftic, Wiywouth, and Melcomb-Rcgii, the two latter bein^ uii united cor- potation. DEVONSHIRE. E R N [Europe. Devonfliire is bounded on the ead by Dorfetlhire and Somerfetfliire, on the Touih by the Englifti Chan- nel, on the weft by Cornwall, and on the north by the Briftol Channel. It extendi in length from Touth to north about fixty-niiie milei, and in breadth fixty- fix. The principal riven are the Tamar and the Ex The I'amar rifea in Moor-VVinftow, in the north- weft part of Cornwall, whence running fouthward •long the bordera of Devontbire, it falls into the Eng- lilh Channel. The Ex has its origin in the barren tra£l of coun- try, called Exmoie, fituated partly in Devonfhite, and partly in Somerfetfliire, near the Brillol Channel. Runniiig direAly fouth, it is afterwards joined by feveral lefs confiderable rivers, and pafling through Exeter, falls in the En^lifli Channel in a large dream, about nine miles to the fputh-eaft of that city. There are in this county fo many confiderable ri««rt beHdea the Tamar and the Ex, that it contains mor^ than a hundred and fifty bridges. Of thefe the pofed to have been built by the Wefl Saxon kings, and to have been the place of their refidence. Axminfter derives its name partly from its fituation upon a river called Axe, and partly from a minller eflablifhed at this place by king Atheli!an, for feven pricfls, to pray for the fouls of fome perfons buried here, who were killed in his army, when he defeated the Danes in a blpody battle on a field in this neigh- bourhood, which is fiill called King's Field, The town is a hundred and forty-fix miles from London, 3 lying Enolano.] GENERAL TRAVELLER; i49 lying on the borderi of Somtrrelfliire and Dorf«ifliire, in the roid to Exeter. It carries on a fmall trade in kcrfeyi, druggeii, and other articlci of ih« woollen manufaAure. Honiton Itandi near a fmall river called the Otter, at the diftance of a hundred und fifty-fix milet from London, and in the road lo Lxcter, It it a borough by prefcription, and ii governed by a portreeve, who ii cbofen yearly at the court of the lord of the manor. U it fituatcd in the bed and moll pleafant part of De- vonihire, abounding with corn and pafture ; and com- manding a mod delightful profpeii of the adjacent country. It confifti chiefly of one ftreet, remarkably welt paved with pebbles, through which runs * fmall channel of clear water, with a little fquare dripping- place at every door. The town is well built, and there is here a bridge over the Oaer. The parifh church ftands upon a hill half a mile dillant. The firft ferge manufactory in Devonihire wat in this town i but the inhabitants are now much employed in the manufaAure of lace, which is made broader here than in any other place in England, and great quantities ■re fent to London. Ottery. There are three towns of this name, which they derive from their fituation upon a fmall river called the Otter. They are diftinguifhed by the names of Ottery St. Mary's, Ottery Mohuos, and Ottery Up. The former of thefe is the market- town, and had its a name belonging anciently to St, Mary's church, in Roan in France. It is a large town, diftant front London a hundred and fixty-one miles. Sidmouth, fo named from its fituation, at the mouth of a fmall river called the Side, which flows into the Britifh channel, lies a hundred and fifty-feven miHs from London. It was formerly a confiderable port, but the harbour is now fo choaked up with fand, that no (hips of burden can enter. It remains, however, one of the chief liAiing towns in the county, and fup- {dies the caftern parts of it with much provifions. Clumbton ftands on the fmall river Clumb, a hun- dred and fixty-fix miles from London. The church here has a curious and rich gilded rood loft, which is fiill preferved as an ornament, though the image it contained in the days of popery, is removed. This town has a confiderable woollen manufadlure. Topfham ftands three miles fouth from Exeter, of which it is the port. It is almoft furrounded by the Ex, and a rivulet called the ClifF. Both the horfe- road and foot-way from Exeter to this town, being very pleafant, many people refort hither for pleafure, u well as for bufinefs. .-' *•> •'^ Crediton, vulgarly called Kirtoh, has its name from the river Creden, on which it ftands. It is a hundred ■nd eighty-three miles diftant from London. Its prin- cipal manufadlure is ferge, in which it carried on a great trade till the year 1743, when upwards of four hundred houfes were deftroyed by (ire. This town was formerly an epifcopal fee. Barnftaple is diftant from London a hundred and ninety-four miles, and is pleafantly fituated ' among hills, in the form of a I'emicircle, a river called the " No, 39, Taw bcin| the chord of the arch, h once had walii, with a caftle, and enjoyed the privileges of a city, which having loft, it was incorporated by a charter of queen Mary. I'he houfes are built of ftone, and (he ftreett are clean and well paved. There is a ftone bridge over the Taw, of fixteen arches, and adjoin- ing to it a paper-mill. The town had formerly a haven, which became at laft fo (hallow, though at fpring tides the neighbouring fields are overflowed, that moft of the trade removed to Diddiford, Till the be. ginning of the prefent difiurbances in America, how- ever, it had a confiderable traflic to that country^ as it fiill has to Irela.'id, whence It is an eftabliftied port for landing wool. It alfo carries on a great trade with the ferge- makers of I'iverton and Exeter, who came hither to buy (had-fifh, wool, and yarn. Biddiford ftands on the river Touridge, which a lit> tie farther north joins the Taw, and falls with it into that part of the Briftol channel called Barnftaple-Bay. This town is a hundred and ninety-feven miles diftant from London, and is a clean, well-built, populous place. It has a ftreet three quarters of a mile in length, running parallel to the river, with a fine quay, where fhips can load and unload in the very heart of the town. Here is alfo another Areet of confiderable extent, with good buildings, inhabited by wealth/ merchants. Torrington, called Great Torrington, to diftin- guifli it from another of the fame name, is fituated on the river Touridge, a hundred and ninety- two miles from London. It is a rich populous town, carries on a great trade with Ireland, and other placet to tho Hartland ftands In the extreme part of the couriiy to the north-weft. Upon a promontory that runs far into the Tea, and is called Hartland-Point. The town is a hundred and ninety-feven miles from Londoii, and is a great refort not only of people from Corn- wall, but of fiflier-boats of Barnftaple, Biddiford, and other towns upon the coafr. It carries on a confider- able herring fifliery } and the cod taken here Is re- markably excellent, though i is not near foplenty as on the banks of Newfoundland. Okchampton, vulgarly Ockington, ftands on the river Oke, a hundred and ninety-three miles from London. Here is a manufadiure of ferges ; but the principal fupport of the place is faid to be the road between the towns of Launcefton, in Cornwall, and Crediton, in this county; the beft houfes in the place being inns. Taviftock lies two hundred and one miles from London, and is a borough by prefcription. It is alfo a ftannary town, and is large and well built. In the church of Lametton, or Lamberton, a vil- lage two miles from Taviftock. are the effigies of Ni- cholas and Andrew Tremaine, twins, of this pariOi, who in features, ftatiire, voice, and every other par- ticular, fo exaAly refembled each other, that thofe who knew them beft could not always diftinguiflj them. The fympathy that fubfifted between them was no lefs extraordinary than the fimilitude of their perfons ; for even at a diftance one from the other, they per- 4 ^ formed 350 THE MODERN II ,;. ■(■M u\' fornwd the fam« funAioni, had the ram* appcliui and defirei, and fuRercd the dm* paiiii and anxiciitn at the fama timt. Of thcfe remarkable pirfoni nutbing /arther it ralaicd, but ihit in the year 1663, ihcy were killed together at Newhaven in France \ but upon vhat occafion, or in what manner, ia nut known. Tiverton ii fituaiej between the riven Ex and Lo- man, near their conflux, a hundred and rixiy-Ave milei from London. Here it the greateft woollen manufadiory in the county, except that of Exeter i next to which it it alfo the largell, if not the moft populoui, o> all the inland towni in Uevonfliire. Bearalftun Oandi on a fmall river, called the Tave, two hundred milei from London, and it a borough by prefcription. All perfoni who pay three pence or more a year to the lord of the manor, ai an acknow* ledgmcnt for land held in the borough, ate called bur- gage-holderi, and are the only voters for reprefentativei of thit borough in parliament. The houfes here do not amount to • hundred, and the place ii only a hamlet in the pariOi of Bear Ferrii, from the church of which it ii almoll two mllei diftant. Alhburton flandi upon the river Dart, u hundred and ninety one miles from London, half way between Exeter and Plymouth. It is a borough by prefcription ( being alfo a ftannary town, and ii remarkable for in ihinei of tin and copper, as well as a manufadlure of ferge. Totnes it fituated upon the river Dart, a hundred and ninety-five miles from London, and is a borough by prefcription, efteemed the moft ancient in the county. The town confifls chiefly of one broad ftreet, three quarters of a mile long, on the fuuth of a rocky Jijll, declining to the river. It had formerly a wall, and four gates ; but only the fouth gate and fome parts of the reft are now remaining. Here is a fpacious church, with a fine tower and four pinades, each above ninety foot high. The chief trade is the woollen manufa&ure. Dartmouth, fo called fro. .w fituation at the mouth of the Dart, is a hundre 1 and ninety-two miles from London, and is a corporation originally formed out of three didinft towns, viz. Dartmouth, Clifton, and Hardnefs. It ftands on the fide of a craggy hill, which renders the ftreets very irregular, but the houfes arc generally high. Here are three churches, befldes a large difTenting meeting-houfe ; but the mother church is at a village called Townftall, about three quarters of a mile from Dartmouth. This church flands on a hill, and the tower of it, which is fixty-nine foot high, fcrves as a fea mark. The harbour of Dart- mouth, which is fo large that five hundred fail of (hips may ride in it, is defended by three cailles, befides fotts and blockhoufes, and its entrance may, upon occafion, be Ihut up with a chain. Here is a large quay, and a fpacious ftreet adjoining, inhabited chiefly by merchants, who carry on a confiderable trade to Portugal and the plantations, efpecially Newfoundland, whence they carry fifli to Italy. Here alfo is the greateft pilchard fiftiery of any part in the weft, ex- cept Falmouth, By a grant of Edward III, the bur- ^eifes of this town are toll free throughout all i:.ng- [EuRopr. they obtained land I and in ;he reign of Richard II, the axclufive privilege of exporting tin. Dodbrook II Midi on a little river called the S^U comb, at (he dilUncc of a hundred and ninety-eight miles Irom Londun, The place is remarkable only lur a culiom of pnying the parfon tythe of • liquor called while ale. Plympton Itandi on a fmall ftream that runs into the river Hlym about two hundred and twenty miles troin London, It 11 called Plympton Maurice, or Earl's F.ympton, to diftinguifli it from Plympton St. Mary 1 a fmall town half a mile diftant, I'hit is • ftannary town 1 and is wall inhabited, confifting chiefly of two ftrcett. It has the bcft free fchuol in ih« county, being endowed with landi to the amount of a hundred pounds a year, and built on ftune pillari in 1664, by Sir John Maynard, one of the truftee* of Eliceui Hele, £fq, of Cornwood, near Plymouth, who gave fifteen hundred pounds a year to fuch ufea. Plymouth is diftant from London two hundred and fixteen miles, and ftandi on the river Plym above men- tioned, which a little hence falls into a bay of th« Engllfh channel called Plymouth found, on one fide of the town, ai the river Tamar does on the other. Plymouth, from a fmall fifhing town it become the largeft in the county, and is fuppofed to contain near as many inhabitanti at the city of Exeter. Itt port confifti of two harbours, capable of containing a thou- fand fail. It it defended by feveral forts, mounted with Dear three hundred guns, and particularly by a ftrong citadel, ere£led in the reign of Charles II. before the . mouth of the harbour, Thit citadrl, the walli of which include at leaft two acres of ground, hat fivo regular baftions, contains a large magaaine of fiorei, and mountt a hundred and fixty-five gum. Tht inlet of the fea, which runs fome miles up the county, at the mouth of the Tamar ii called the Hamoaxe j and that which receives the Plym, the Cat-water. About two miles up the Hamoase are two docks, one wet and the other dry, with a bafon, two hundred foot fquare ( both hewn out of a mine of date, and lined with Portland ftone. The dry dock it formed after the model of a firft rate man of war { and the wet dock will contain fivQ firft rates. Here are conveni* encet of all kindt for building and repairing (hipt 1 and the whole forms at complete, though not fo large an arfenat, at any in the kingdom. The fliipt that are homeward bound generally put into thit port for pilott, to carry them up the Channel | and in time of war, the convoys for fliipt outward bound, for the moft part rendezvoui her?. 1 ill the reign of Queen Elizabeth thit town fuf- fered great inconvenience from the want of frefh water, but is now well fupplied by a . fpring feven milea oflT, the water of which was brought hither at the expcnc* of Sir Francis Drake, who was a native of Plymouth, There is here a good pilchard fifliery, and the town has a confiderable trade to the Streights and the Weft Indies. This county, with Cornwall, conftitutes that dif- tiidl whicli was antiently inhabited by the Danmonii. Us chief mrinul.'.lu. s are kerfeys, ferges, long-ells, ! flial. kl . i " r 1 1 «orr. I>t4intd t S*l. '-eight onljr liquur ■ ENatAND.J GENERAL TRAVELLER. S5« fliallooni, narrow cloihi, ind bont lie*, in which, ■• well If in corn, cjiile, wool, «nd fca-lilh, the in- habitant! carry on a confiderahle trade. It ii alfo much Moled for cyilrr, o( which great ijuantitiei are nadr, Th8 chief inconvenience under which the people of ihii country Uhnur, ii the colic, rerembjin^; that ol I'uitou, which often rage* with great violence imonj; the poorer fort of the inhabitant). Varioui are the riufci that have been afTigned for the produflion of thii difcafe i but the common opinion ii, that it in occafioned by the cyder, either drank in too crude a ftate, or impiegnated with lead from the velTcit in which it ii made or prcfrrved. Dr. Hardy imputes the difeafe to the deliterinui quality of glased velTel], ufcd by many of the people, the lead which is employed in the manufacture of thofe utenflli being difTulvcd by the acid liquor. Devonfhire fends twenty-fix membrri to parliament: two for the county, two for the city of Exeter, and two for each of the following boroughs, vis. Afhbur- ton, Barnftaple, Bearalfion, Dartmouth, Honiton, Olce- hampton, Plymouth, Plymton, Tavil^ock, Tiverton, and Totnei. CHAP. Ill, Cormuall, and Stmtrfitjhiri, CORNWALL it bounded on the fouth, and the n'-rth, b/ the fea, and on the eaft by the river Ta- mar, which feparatet it from Devonfliire. It is the moft weftcrn county of England, having on the fouth a pro- montory, calied the Lisard Point, and another on the weft, named the Land'i End. Its greateft extent from eaft to weft li feventy-cight milei, and iti greateft breadth forty-three. The principal rivers of Cornwall are the Tamar and the Camel, the former of which has been defcribed in treating of the county of Devon. The Camel rifes about two miles north of the borough of Camelford, and having run a courfe of twelve miles, becomes na- vigable for fmall (hips, difchargtng itfelf afterwards into St. George's Channel, on the north of the coHOty, Befides thefe two rivers, there are in Cornwall the Lynher, the Tide or Tidi, the Seaton, the Loo, the Duloo, the Fawy, the Fal, the Hcl, the Lo, and the Hey I. The Lynher rifes in the hills in the parifli of Alta- run, about eight miles weft of La 'ncefton ; and af- ter a courfe of about twenty-four miles, fall into the Tamar. In the fummer the dream is fmall, but in the winter very large and rapid. The Tide, or Tidi, rifes on the fouth fide of Ca- radon hill, near Lefkard, and falls into the Lynher, a little below St. Germans. The Seaton has its fource in fome high lands called St. Clare, about four miles to the north-eaft of Lef- kard J its whole courfe being about twelve miles. The Loo, or Eaft Loo, has alfo its rife in the lands of St. Clare, and after a courfe of about ten miles, falls into the fea. The Duloo, or Weft Loo, rifei In the ptrlfli of St. Pinock, and after i courfe of about fevcn mllci, falls into the Eaft Loo. The Kawy rifci in a moor of the fame nam*, not far from a mountain called BrownwiHy, which it on* of the highcft in the county. Having received ftvea ral rivulets in a couife of twenty- fix miles, it dif- charges itfelf into the fea, between two old towerti which were built in the reign of Edward IV. The Fal, or Fula, riles at a place called Fenton Val, about two miles to the weft of 'Uuche.Hills | and after a courfe of about twenty miles, falls into iha fea. The Hi-I iffues from fome hills near Penhal Oujr, and having run a courfe of about fix miles, falls into the fea, where it forms a haven almoft a mile wide. The Lo, or Loo, called the Loo in Kerrier, to diftinguifh it from the Eaft and Weft Loo, rifes in ' the north part of the parifli of Windron, and after a courfe of fix miles, falls into the fea, having firft formed a lake, called Loo Pool. The Hayl rifes from four brooks, about three milei north of a town called St. Erth, and after a courfe of more than five miles, falls in the fea at St. Ivra Bay. Thefe are all the rivers in Cornwall that are navi« gable in any part of their courfe \ the otheri being too inconfiderable to be particularly mentioned. This county being of a peninfular form, the air here is more damp than in other places that lie remote from the fea. A dry fummer is extremely rare in Cornwall \ but the rains are rather frequent than heavy. Storms of wind are more fudden and violent than within the land i and the air is impregnated with fait, which rifes with the vapours from the fea. Thit quality renders it unfavourable to perfons of a fcor- butic habit, and it is alfo hurtful to Oirubs and trees, which are far lefs common here, on rifing grounds, than in the northern counties of England, which are not expofed to blafts from the fea. Notwithftanding this fliarpnefs of the air, the win- ters are more mild in Cornwall than in any other part of the Idand } fo that myrtles, if fecured from the fea winds, will flourifh here without a green-houfe. The fnow feldom lies more than three or four days upon the ground, and a violent (hower of hail ia hardly ever known. The fpring fliews itfelf early in buds and and bloflbms, but its progrefs is not fo quick as elfewhere. The fummers are not more hot in pro- portion as the winters are lefs cold j for the air is always kept cool by the breezes from the fea ; and the fun beams are not refle£led from the furrounding water with fo much force as from the earth. On this account, though Cornwall is the fouthernmoft county in England, the harveft is later, and the fruit has left flavour here than in the midland parts. As the county abounds in mines the air is impreg- nated with mineral vapours, which in fome placet are fo inflammable as to take fire, and appear in flame over the grounds from which they rife. The air of Cornwall, however, is generally efteemed falubrious, except to fcotbutic habits, as has already been men- tioned ; m t H B MODERN [Europe. lioocd I tot the atmofphere is in a great meafurs free from the putrid exhalations that in other placet rife from bogt, marches, and flagnant waters ; and from the corrupt air that it often found in places that are not fufficic4tly ventilated. In Cornwall, the country is open, the foil in general found, ahd the air is al- ways in motion { all which circuflances atone for any noxious effluvia fuppofed to rife cither from the mines or the lea. The foil of Cornwall ii of three kinds ; viz. the black and gritty, the (helfey and flattey, and the ftiiF zeddifl) foil, approaching to clay. The higheft grounds are covered with the black foil i and on the tope bei^ by the fea. J A floor is frequently found at the depth of many fiuhom { and the fame ore is fometimcs difcovered in a perpendicular lode for -many fathom, and then dif* fufed into a floor. The mines which contain thofii floors are eaitremely dangerous ; for gre;^t care muft be taken to fupport the vaft mafs that is undermine4 by digging out a horizontal ftratum of ore, at the depth of many fathoms below. Tin, which is the peculiar produA of this county, affords not only employment to the poor, but en- riches the proprietors of the lanil^; and yields a con^ fiderable revenue to the prince of Wales, who U duke of Cornwall ; befides which, it is alfo an im- portant article of trade to the nation. Copper is no where found richer, or in greater va- riety r( ores than in Cornwall ; though the mines have rot been worked with much advantage longer than fixty years. The moft common ore is of a yel- low braft colour ; but fome of it is green, hlue, black, grey, or red. The green, blue, and black kinds yield but little copper ; the grey contains more metal than the yellow, and the red more than the grey. There are, befides, in almoft all confiderable mines, fmall quantities of malleable copper, which, from its purity, the miners call the virgin ore. This is coan- bined and allayed with various fubftancet } fometimu. with bafe cryftal, fometimes with a gravelly clay, and at other times with the ruft of iron.. Its figure alio is extremely various : fometimes it is in thin plates, fhaped like leaves; fometimes in grains and lumps; at other times branched, fringed, or twifted into wires. It fometimes Ihoets into blades, crofied at the top like 5 a dagger} f.^Vn<-//rr ('^y///// ^y,; 'u\'/f,fr '//<>f,uf// f//t///rrf,f^ n/ /WnW II r i ii '. England.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. a dagger ; and rometimes it has the appearance of hollow fillagree. It has alfo been found in powder, little inferior in luftre to that of gold. The waters in which the copper ore is 'vaflied, has been lately difcovered to make blue vitriol of the beft kind. In the vegetable and animal produftions of this county there is nothing peculiar, except the pyrrho- corax, a crow with a red bill and red feet, called the Cornifh chough ; and the feal, or fea-calf, which is frequently found in the caves and other parts of the fhores as are leaft frequented. Cornwall is divided into nine hundreds, and con- tains thirty-one towns which are incorporated. It lies in the diocefe of Exeter, and province of Canterbury, and includes, according to Camden and Speed, a hundred and fixty-one parifli churches ; according to Others a hundred ur.d eighty ; and in Martin's Index Villaris, they are faid to be a hundred and ninety-eight. The towns are, Bodmyn, Bofcaftle, Bofljney, Ca- melford, Columb Magna, Eaft Loo, Falmouth, Fowey, St. Germans, Grampont, Helfton, St. Ives, Kelling- ton, Launcefton, Lefkard, Leftwithiel, Market Jew, St. Michael, Moufe Hole, Newport, Padftow, Penryn, Fenfance, Redruth, Saltafli, Stratton, Tregony, Truro, Wadebridge, and Weft Loo. Launcefton ftands on a rifing ground near the Tamar, two hundred and eight mil;s from London. It includes two ancient boroughs, called Dunhivid or Dunevet, and Newport. It was made a free borough by king Henry III. and incorporated by Q^ieen Mary in 1535. The knights of the (hire are eledled at this place, and, till lately, the fummer aflizes were held here ; but thefe are now removed to Bodmyn, Kellington is diftant from London a hundred and ninety-nine miles ; and though it has no charter of incorporation, is governed by a portreeve, who is an- nually chofen at the court leet of the lord of the manor. It ftands on the river Lyner, or Lynher, and is greatly fuperior to the mnjority of Cornilh boroughs. It con- fifts of one good broad ftreet, and its chief trade is the woollen manufaiSture. Saltafli is fltuated on the declivity of a fteep hill, not more than three miles from the dock of Plymouth, to which there is a ferry over the Tamar, called the Crimble Paflage. The harbour will receive fhips of any burden ; and the inhabitants carry on a confiderable trade in malt and bear. They alfi. furnifli the inha- bitants of Plymouth Dock with almoft all the neccflfa- rics that are fold at market ; provifions being much cheaper here than at Plymouth, and the people choof- ing rsther to come to SaltaOi in the town boat, than by land to the town of Plymouth, becaufe the boat with- out any additional expencc, brings home what they buy. St. Germans derives its name from St. Gcrmanus, a bifliop of Burgundy, who came over hither to fup- prefs the Pelagian herfy. It is diftant from Lon- don two hundred and twenty miles, and is a mean place, confifting only of a few fifliermen's cottages, built upon an irregular rock, in form of an amphi- theatre, and waftied by the river Tide, which abounds with oyftcrs. It was once a biftiop's fee, and the ruins of the epifcopal palace are ftiU viftble at Cuttenbe'.k, No, 30, iSs about a mile and a half from the town. The churclj is large, and not ill built, with an epifcopal chair and ftalls for the prebends. The parifli in which this iov(n, ftands, which is alfo called St. Germans, is the largeft in the county, being twenty miles in compafs, and containing feventecn villages. It is fuppofed to in- clude more gentlemen's feats and lorddips than anj other parifli in England, Eaft Loo and Weft Loo, fo called from their fitua* tion on the river Loo, are diftant from London two hundred and thirty-two miles, and joined by a ftone bridge of fifteen arches. Eaft Loo has a wall next to the fea, with a battery of four guns ; and the ina habitants carry on a fmall trade, by fiftiing for pil- chards. At Weft Loo, which is alfo called Port Pig. ham, there is a commodious harbour, though not large, and the river is navigable for vefTels of a hun- dred tons. Lefliard is diftant from London two hundred and twenty-nine miles, and was firft incorporated by Ed- ward earl of Cornwall. It is feated upon a hill, and is one of the largeft and beft built towns in the county. The inhabitants carry on a conflderable trade with the neighbouring towns in boots and fhoes, and fpin a grbat deal of yarn for the clothiers of Devonfliire. fiofcaftle liei a hundred and eighty-fix miles from London, in the •.orth part of the county ; and was, in ancient tiincs, a place of confiderable note ; but now very mean, . Bofliney, called alfo Tintagel and Trevona, is diftant from London two hundred and fifty-two miles. It ftands upon two rocks, one of which is on the main land, and the othef in the fea. The two parts were for- merly joined by a drawbridge ; but this has been def.* ttoyed by the fall of the cliff's on the farther fide, which has filled up the fpace between the different parts of the town. The farihermoft point of the rock that was furrounded by the fea, is called Black* head, and is well known to mariners. On the top of it are the ruins of a caftle, faid to have been the birth-place of the Britifh king Arthur. At prcfent the town isvc.y inconfiderable, being little more thai^ the ruins of ancient buildings, moft of which were of ftone, joined together by a cement, fo ftrong, that where the llone is wafted away, this remains in many places, Padftow, originally Petrock-Stow, derived its name from Petrocus, a Britifli hermit, who lived heti in his cell. It ftands one the river Camel, in the briftol Channel, two hundred and thirty-two miles from Lon- don. The harbour is the beft in the north part of the county, and capable of receiving ftiips of great bur- den ; but it cannot be entered without danger, except by a very fltilful pilot, as there are rocks on each fide, a.-id banks of fand on the weft. The chief trade of this place is in (late, tiles, and the herring fifliery. Five miles fouth of Padftow lies Wadebridge, which derives its name from a bridge over the Camel, the largeft conftruiSlion of the kind in this county. The ereAion of this budge was undertaken in the year 1460, by the vicar ot Egloftiel, whofe name was Lovebon, a man of a great public fpirit. There was then a 4 T ferry 354 THE MODERN t]K urn 1* I H : ferry over the Camel, but it could be plied only when the tide was in s ana when i!'.e tide was out the ford was exceeding dangerous. The expence of this noble woric Was greatly difproportioned to the circum- ftances of the proje£lor ; and in the courfe of it many difficulties arofe, by which a mind Icfs ardent and lefs iirm would have been driven from its purpofe. The foundation of feme of the piers proved fo fwampy, that after many other expedients had been tried with- out f>. "efs, they were at lad built upon woolpacks. But whatever were the difficulties and difcouragement that occurred, T.ovebon perfevered, and being aided by the contributions of others, whofe afliftancs he foli' cited with unwearied application, when y.s own powers were exhauftsd, he lived to fee his bridge completed as it now ftands, with feventecn arches ftretching quite crofs the valley, to the great emolument of his coun- try, and the immorfal honour of his name. Bodmyn is diftant from London two hundred and fixty-three miles, and lies betvecn two hills, almoft in the centre of the county, a fituation which renders it lefs healthful than any other part of Cornwall. This inconvenience is perhaps increafed by the water that fupplies the town, which runs in a conduit through the church-yard, if its courfe has not lately been altered. Bodmyn conflfts chiefly of one (ireet, near a mile in length, and ro training about three hundred lioufes. The church here is the largeft in the county, and had once a fpire, but this was deftroyed by light- ning in the year 1699. The remains of an epifcopal palace and priory are ftiil to be feen, befides veftiges of many other buildings, which fliew that this place was anciently far more conflderable than at prefent. In this town is the (herifPs prifon for debtors, and a free, fchool, maintained partly by the duke of Cornwall, and partly by the corporation. The principal manu- fa£lure is yarn, for which Bodmyn was once the only ftaple in the county, but in this it is much de- cayed. Leftwithiel is diftant from London two hundred and thirty-nine miles, and was in ancient times the place where the earl of the province refided. It ori- ginally ftood upon a high hill, where are (till the re- mains of an old caftle, called Leftormin, or Reftor- mel, which was the provincial palace ; but the town is now removed into the valley, and, though well-built, is not populous, bccaufe the river Fawy, on which it ftands, is no longer navigable for veflels. It ftill however enjoys fome peculiar privileges : the common jail for a'l the ftanaries, and their weights and mea- fures, are kept here. This place alfo holds the bulhel- age of coals, fait, malt, and corn in town of Fowey, with the anchorage in its harbour, for which, and other privileges, it pays iil. 19 s, 10 d, per annum to the duchy of Cornwall. The remaining trade of the town conflfts in woollen manufaftures. Fowey, fo called from the river on which it is fi- tuated, lies to the fouth of Leftwithiel, two hundred and forty miles from London. It is both populous and extenfive, reaching .norc tlan a mile on the eaft fide of the river, and has a commodious haven in the channel. On each fide of the harbour there was for- merly a fort, the remains of which are yet vifible. • manu> [EuROf*. This place flouriflied greatly in former times, by naval wars and piracies; and it has ftill a confiderable fliare of the fifliing trade, efpecially of that foi pilchards. It is a member of the cinque port?, having obtained that privilege from king Edward III. for fuccouring fome (hips of Rye that were in diftrels. Grampont ftands two hundred and fifty. one miles from London, and confifts only of one fticct. Among other privileges, which are held of the duchy at the annual rent of twelve guineas, the corporation is ex- empted from all tolls within the boundaries 0/ Corn- wall. The inhabitants carry on a conliderable 1 fa£lure of gloves. Tregony is diftant from London two hundred and feventy-four miles, and ftands on the river Fal, which is navigable from Falmouth to this place. The chief manufafliire is ferge. Truro, fo called from its confifting chiefly of three ftreets, as the Cornifli word 7'rutu (ignifies, lies two hundred and feventy-four miles from London, and was firft incorporated by king John. It it fituated near the conflux of two fmall rivers, which almoft fur- round it, and forms a large wharf, with a commo- dious quay, for veflels of about one hundred tons. The ftreets are regular, and the church, which is a large Gothic building, not inferior to any in the county. The people of this town live and drefs fo elegantly, that the pridi of Truro is one of the by- words of the county. The chief trade of the place • confifts in Clipping off tin and copper ore. Redruth is diftant from London two hundred and feventy-three miles j and lying in the middle of the mines, is populous by the refort of the tinners. Penryn is fituated upon a hill at the entrance of Falmouth harbour, near Pendennis Caftle, and is fur- rounded with gardens and orchards. It is well water- ed with rivulets, and has on each fide of it an arm of the fea, with a good cuftom-houfe, quay, and other neat buildings. Here are the ruins of a collegiate church, founded by Brancomb, bi(hop of Exeter, con- fifting of a tower and part of the garde.T walls. Pen- ryn is inhabited by many merchants, and carries on a conflderable trade in catching, drying, and vending pilchards, and in the Newfoundland fifliery. Falmouth, fo called from its fituation at the mouth of the river Fal, is diftant from London two hun- dred and eighty-two miles, and is a well-built town. The harbour here is almoft a mile wide, fecured with hills and winding creeks, with a deep channel, and a bold fliore. In this harbour it is faid that a hundred ftiips may anchor, and no one fee the other's top. It is alfo fituated conveniently for getting clear of the Channel, and is reckoned the fecond harbour in Great Britain, yielding only to Milford Haven, on the coaft of Wales. Near the middle of it, however, there is a rock, the top of which is below high water mark, but no damage happens from it, bccaufe the heirs of Killegrew, the lords of Pendennis Caftle, which guards the entrance, are obliged to keep a tall polo fixed on the higheft part of it, fo that its fituation is feen and avoided. Helflon ftands about two hundred and ninety-four miles from Lo.ndon, on the river Cober, not far from iti by naval ■able ftare pilchards. obtiined uccouring England.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. its influx into the fea. It is large and populoui, con- fifting chiefly of four ftreets, built in the form of a crofs, through each of which runs a ftream of water. At the interfcAion of ihefe ilreets ftands the market- houfe, which it a large convenient building. This town has aifo a guild-hall and a church, with a fteeple that is ninety feet high, and ferves as a fea-marlc. A little below the town is a harbour, which is far from being contemptible, where many of the tin ihips take in their lading. Market- Jew lies feveral miles north-weft of Helflon, ■pon a bay, called Mounts Bay. It has a harbour, which is neither commodious nor fafe, and the town is very inconfiderable. St. Ives is diftant from London two hundred and feventy-eight miles, and ftands upon a bay, now al- moft choaked up with fand, that has been driven hither by the north-weft wind, to which it is greatly expofed. The town at prefent is fmall, but has a handfome church, which however Is but a chapel to the parifli of Unilalent. Before the harbour was blocke' up, the inhabitants carried on a confiderable trade in pilchards and Cornifli flates but .nis now greatly dc" clined. Penzance iik fituated two hundred and ninety milrs from London, in the bottom of Mount's Bay. It is well built, and populous, and carries on a confider- able trade. Cornwall was anciently inhabited by thofe Britons whom the Romans named Dunmonii, or Danmonii, and there are y-. in the country many monuments of its former poflfeflbrs. Of thofe the moft fimple are fingle fiones, not only uninfcribed, but unhewn. Others are compofed of two, three, or more ftones, arranged fometimes in a ftraight line, and fometimes in a circular form. In Men Perken, a village be- tween Falmouth and Helfton, there ftood, not many years ago, a large pyramidal ftone, twenty four foot high, of which twenty foot appeared .I'^ive ground. Here is alfo a ftone Ihaped like the Greek letter omega ; it is thirty-feet round, and eleven feet high ; adjoin- ing to which are other large ftones, that ftill fliew plain marks of workmanftiip, as if they had been partly fafllioned according to the fame model. Near a village called St. CIccre, north of Lefltard, are m^ny large ftones of a rude columnar fliape, now lying at full length on the ground, though it is un- queftionable that they formerly ftood eredt. Here is alfo a pile of rocks, placed one over another, calit-d Wingcheefe, from the refemblance of fome of them to large chcefes, prefled by the fuperincumbent weight. This pile is thirty-two feet high, and attrads the admiration of all travellers. The ftones towards the top projeA fo far over the middle part, that it has been a matter of wonder how fo ill conftrufted a mafu could refift for fo many ages the ftorms of fo expofed a fituation. Moft writers, however, are of opinion, that this is a natural flruflure. The top ftone is faid to have been formerly a legan, or rocking ftone, but is now become immoveable. Some ftone monuments in this country confift of a large orbicular rock, fupported by two other rocks. 355 between which there is a paflage. The moft afio- nifliing monument of the kind now remaining is at Men, between Falmouth and Helfton. It conlifts of one vaft oval pebble, placed on the points uf two na- tural rocks, fo that a man may creep under the in- cumbent rock, and between its two fupporters, through a paflage about three foot wide. The longefi dia- meter of the incumbent ftone, which points due north and fouth, is thirty-three foot, and the cir> cumference ninety-fcven. On the top, the whole furface is wrought into bafons, and refembles a mu- tilated honeycomb. Moft of thofe cavities difcharge their contents into two principal bafons, one on the fouth, and the other at the north end of the rock. Near Madern, north of Penzance, are three ftones ftanding ereiH in a triangular figure. One of them is thin and flat, and fixed in the ground on its edge, having in the middle a large hole about fourteen inches diameter. Each of the other two ftones is a rude pillar about four feet high ; and near one of them is a ftone lying like a cuftiion or pillow, as if to kneel upon. To what particular rite of fuperftition this monument was appropriated, is i-ncertain ; but the country people ia the neighbourhood, even at this day, creep thiough the holed ftone for pains in their backs and limbs } young ■hildren are drawn through it to cure them of the rickets, and it ferves alfo as an oracular monument, to inform the devotees of fome material incident of love or fortune. Of the fame kind there are many other ftones, in different parts of the country, all which, there is the ftrongeft reafon to fuppofe were worfliipped by the Druids, a people who were much addicted to this fu< perftition. In this county there are feveral rocking-ftones, or, as they are here called, logan ftones ; fome of which are fuppofed to be natural, and others artificial. Near the fouthermoft point of the Land's- End, there is a promontory called Caftle Treryn, which confifts of three diftin£l piles of rocks. On the weft fide of the middle pile, near the top, lies a very large ftone, fu evenly poifed, that any hand may rock it j yet we are told, that the extremities of its bafe are at fuch a diftance from each other, and fo well fecured, that it is impofTible any lever, or indeed, any force, however applied in a mechanical way, could remove it from its prefent fituation. In the parifh of Sithny, near Helfton, ftood a fam- ous logan ftune, commonly called Man Amber. It is eleven foot long, twenty-four in girt, and was fo nicely puifed, that the fmalleft force could move it j but in the time of Oliver Cromwell it was under- mined and thrown down by order of the governor of Pendennis. Among the multitude of monuments in Cornwall, are circles of ere£t ftones, alfo frequent in other places. The number of ftones erccSled on a circular plan IS various, and is fuppnfed (o have been either the effefl of fome eftablifhed rules obferved in their con- ftruflion, or to be expreilive of the erudition of thofe ages. In the parifh of St. Clcere, there are three cir- w j;1 ■ M ^ 356 THE M < circlet, called the Hurleri, contiguous to each other, hwirg their centres in a line. The flonei of this mbnumrnt arc by the vulgar rupbofed to have been once men, who were thus transformed as a puniih- tnent for profaning the fabbath day with hurling ; a game at ball ufed by ihe people of Cornwall. Here are alfo great number* of thofe rrtiiiclal heaps cf earth or ftone, called barrows, or tumuli, but in Cornwall generally crigs, or crugsj thofe which con- fift of ftonc being for the moll part der.-xrir'tcd ' karnes. An eart'ien barrcw of a large circumference, and about five foot high, fituated in a field at Trelowarren, not far from Helfton, was opened in lysi. When the workmen had dug half-way to the bottom, they found a parcel of {(ones placed in fome order, which being removed, a cavity was difcovered in the middle Cf the barrow, about two foot in diameter, contain* ing human bones, intermixed with wood afhes. At a little diflance were found two urns, one on each fide the cavity, with their mouths turned downwards, and likewife inclofing fmall bones and afhes. Befides thefe plain barrows, there are others which difcover greater art. Some are furrounded with a fingle row of ilones, vhich form the bafe ; others with a fofs of earth } fbme have a large Hat flone on the iOp, and fome a pillar, lioW and then with, but oftener without >nfcription. Some have a circle round both the top and bottom ; and where this cuflom prevailed, and no Rom: lay convenient for the pur- pt>{e, trees Vere planted. The fizc of thefe fepulchral monuments it various, and generally in proportion to the quality of the de- ceafed, or the vanity, afTeflion, and power of the furviving relations. When not ver_, largej and the burying places of private perfons only, they were fituated near public roads, to put travellers in mind of their common deftiny. Such at were the fepulchres of common foldiers, flain in war, were generally thrown up on the field of battle. Of this kind many lire to be feen in firaight lines, flretching along the plains which have been the fcenes of great u^ion. In feveral parts of Cornwall we meet with a large flat flone, in a horizontal pofition, fupported by others of the fame form, fixed i;i the ground. The name of this kind of monument is cromlech, and its fituaiion is generally on the top of a hill, but fometimcs on that of a barrow. It is for the mod part elevated fix or eight foot, or upwards, from the ground, though fome are found inclofed in the barrow, on a level with its furface. The number of fupporters in all the monu- trents of this clafs is uniformly three, and thefe in- clofe an area generally of fix foot or more in length, and three foot in breadth at the widcfl parts. Monu- ments of this kind have been found in many places on the continent cf Europe, and the iflands of the Me. diterranean, as well as in Great Britain and Ireland. They are generally fuppofed to be of Celtic origin; and from thefkeleton of a human body, with feveral pieces of bones lately dug up in a monument of this kind in Ireland, it is conjeflured that they alfo were fepul- chral. N [Europe, In the parifh of Madern, in this county, there are two cromlechs, one at Molfra, and the other at Lanyon. The former is placed on the funwiiit of a round hill . the cover-ft(rriber of (heep, of the largeft fize in England. There is great plenty of wild fowl } but there being only a 'few parks, venifon is fcarce. The fouth fhore fumiflies the inhabitants with lobfters, crabs^ and mackrel ; the Briftol Channel and the Severa with foles, flounders, plaife, fhrimp, prawns, herrings, and cod i the Parret affords plenty of Salmon ; and the Avon abounds -with a fort of blackifli eels, called elvers, hardly fo big as a goofe quill, which are fkimmed up in vaA quantities with fmall nets, and which, when the ikia is taken off, are made into cakes and fried. The Mendip-hills, a large traA of mountains' which occupies the interior parts of the county are the moft famous in £ng4:ind for coal and lead mines ; but the lead is lefs foft, /^ifible, and duiHile, than that of Derbyfhire, and therefore not fo proper for fheet- ing. On this account it is generally exported, or cad into bullets and fniall fiioc. Copper and okre are alfo found in thofe hills, and the lapis calaminaris is du)> up here in greater quantities than in any other part of England. I'he beautiful foflii cnllcd Briftol ftone, is found in great plenty in fome rocks upon the banks of the Avon, near Rriftol ; and at Bifhnp's-Chow, near Writon, is dug tip a red bole, called by the country people red ding, which is fent alt over England, for marking of fhccp and other ul'es. Somerfctftiire lies in the province of Canterbury, and dioccfe of Bath and W.;lls. ^t is a large and populous county, divided into forty-two hundreds, and contain- ing no lefs than three cities, with thirty-one market towns. The cities are Bath, Briftol, and Wells { and No. 30. the market-towns are Axbridge, Bridgewater, Brutony Caftle Carty, Chard, Cnwkcrn, Crufcomb, Dulver- ton-Dunfter, Frume-Selwood, Glaftonbury, Ilchefteff llmifter, Keynfliam, Langport, Milburnport, Mine- head, North-Curry, Ponsford, Petherton -South, Phi-» lips-Norton, Shcpton Mallet, Sumerton, Stoway, Taunton, Matchet, Wellington, Wincaunton, Wi- velfcomb, Wrinton, and Yeovil. The city of Bsth is diftant from Londor> a hundred and eight miles, and derives its name from fome natu- ral hot baths, for which the place has been long cele- brated. It ftand in a valley, upon the north bank of the river Avon, and is furrounded with hills in the form of an amphitheatre. It it encompaffed with walls, which, though flight and almoft entire, are fuppofed to have been the work of the Romans ; and the upper part feem* to have been repaired with the ruins of Roman buildings. The ground incloled by the walls is in the form of a pentagon { and in thofe were four gates and a poftern, which have lately beea demoliflied. Bath is a bifhop't fee, united to that of Well*} and contains a cathedral, befides three parifli churches. The former, which is dedicated to St. Peter, was be- gun in 1137, but not finiflied till 1612. Though fmall, it is a noble ftrudlure, and the inSde of the roof is elegantly wrought. In the middle there is a hand- fome tower, and the eaft window is very magnificent. On the fouth fide of the cathedral there ate fome re« main* of an abbey, to which the church formerly belonged. The gate-houfe of the abbey it ftill Hand- ing, and has been a long time converted into lodg- ings. Here is a hofpltal dedicated to St. John, which was founded by Fitz-Joccline, bi/hop of this fee in the twelfth century, for the fick and poor people who come hither for the benefit of the waters. Another hofpital, or ir. Upon the fpot now occupied by the cathedral church, it is faid there formerly ftood a temple dedicated to Minerva, who was the tutelar deity of thofe fprings ; and hence the ancient Britoni called this city Caer Palladur, which fignifies tht citf of tht water of Pallas, Upon Landfdown-Hill, in the neighbourhood of Bath, are ftill to be feen the remains of a' fortifica- tion, fuppofed to have been thrown up by the Saxons in the yrar 520, when they defended themfelves againft the victorious king Arthur. On the infide of the city wall, between the north and weft gates, are feveral ftones with ancient figures and iiifcriptions. On one of thofe is an image of Hercules holding up his left hand, and having his club in the right. Upon another, the fame hero is reprefented with fnukes in his hands. It has been faid that all natural hot baths were facred to Hercules ; but as the baths of this place are known to have been dedicated to Minerva, there appears fome reafon to conclude, that natural hot baths were dedicated both to Hercules and Minerva. At Bathford, north-eaft of the city of Bath, and on the other fide of the river Avon, in the beginning of the laft century, a room was difcovercd under ground, with a chequered pavement of white, blue, and red ftones. Briftol i)i diftant from London a hundred and fe- venteen x...,ss, and is a hiOiop's fee. It ftands upon the north anil louth fioes of the river Avon, and is therefore p.ntly in the county of Glouccfter, and partly in that of ^umcrfet, but chiefly in the former. Here liNGLANO.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 25i Here is « (lone bridge, confilting of four broad arches. The (Ireeti uf the city are narrow, irregular, and nnt well paved. Many of the houfei are five or fix do- rici high, with the upper fioori projecting over the lower, at wai the fafhion in London before the fire in ib6b. 'I'he Glouccftcrfhire fide uf the city is four .tiiilei and a half in circumference, unJ the Somcrfct- iliir* two milei and a half. The whole i> fuppofcd to contain thirteen thoufand houfei, and ninety- five ihoufand inhabitant!. Urittol had formerly ■ caftle, and wai inclofed with wjIIi, which were demolifhed in the time of king William Rufui. Some parts of them, however, yet remain, with two of the gatei, called Ratcliffe-gate, and Temple-gate. Here is a cathedral and eighteen pariOi churches, bcfides feven or eight meeiing-houfe!> of Proteftant diflenters. The cathedral was formerly the collegiate church of a m'.naftery dedicated to St. Augulline, and was founded in 1148. Few places can boaft of a r number of charitable founda- tions. In Win'>-iucet, thcic is « large corn-marlcet, built of free-Hone, and a guard-room adjoining, with bar- racks for foldiert. In the middle of a fquare called College-Green, is a fine Gothic firuCiure, diftinguifll- cd by the name of the Crofs, having round it the ef- figies of feveral kings of England. On the north fide of a fquare, called Queen's Square, is a cuftom-houfe, with a quay half a mile in length, reputed to be the moft commodious in Eng- land. This place is famous for a medicinal hot fpring, which rifes near the Avon, about a mile from the city, and is very much frequented from April to Septem- ber. It is lighter than other water, clear, ^lure, foft, and has a gentle degree of heat. It is chiefly pre- fcribed for haemorrhages, the diabetes, and purulent ulcers of the vifcera. It is not only drank at the pump-room, but every morning cried in the flreets of the city like milk ; and it retains its virtues lon- ger than any other medicinal waters. Near the well is an aflembly-room, and lodgings for the accommo- dation of ftrangers. This city carries on confiilerablc manufactures of woollen (tuffs, particularly cantaloons ; and here are no Icfs than fifteen glafs-houfes for the manufacture of drinking-glalles, buttles, and plate-glafs. The extenfive commerce maintained by Brillol, renders it, next to London, the principal port in the Briiilh do- minions. It has a very great trade to the Welt Indies, ..^ it has alfo to Guinea, Holland, Hamburgh, and Kot vay, Trs conftant intercourfc with Ireland alone, condii'ites a mod important branch of traffic ; befides 'vhich it has acquired the whole trade of South Wales, as well as the greater part cf North Wales by means of the Severn and the Wye. The city of Wells derives its name from a great number of fprings in the neighbourhood, and is dif- tant from London a hundred and twenty-feven miles. It was creCted into an epifcopal fee in 905 i but Jo- hannes de Vallula, the (ixteenth bi(hop, transferred the fee to Bath, and renounced the title of Wells, For a confidcrable time after this period, great. if« putts fublidcd between the churches of Baib and Wells concerning the eleClion of a bi(ho'i. About the year 1133, however, the matter was compromifed, and it was agreed, that upon the vacancy of the fee, the bilhop fliould be cIcCted by the cancms both of Hath and Wclb, but the prcfidcncy in ftyle (bould be given to Bath. This is u fmall but neat city, /ituated at the bot« torn of Mendip-hills ; the buildings are handfome, and the (treets broad. Here is a cathedral and one parifh church, the former of which is faid to have been firft built by king Ina, about the year 704, but it was afterwards fo efTeClually repaired by Fits-Joce- line, in the twelfth century, that it was confidered ai a new work. The front of this Gothic flruCture is much admired for its carved (tone-work, but particu- larly for a window which is moll curioudy painted. Adjoining to the church are fpacious cloyders, and a chapter-houfe, which is built in the manner of a ro- tunOo, fupported by one pillar in the middle. Here i« alfo a clofe belonging to the cathedral, with very good houfes, and a bi(hop's palace, in which is a fine chapel, built by the fame F'itz Joceline. The palace, reckoned one of the handfomeft in the kingdom, ia fortified with walls and a moat. Ill the middle of the city is the old marttet-houre, called the Crofs, and near it there was lately ereCled another market-houfe, which is a handfome building, and is alfo the place where the judges hold the ailizei. Some bone-lace is made here ; but the poor are chiefly employed in knitting (lockings. The fiid market-town in our route from Cornwall is Dulverton. This is a pretty little town, with a good market, fituated on the borders of Devonfhire, and is diftant from London a hundred and fixty-ninc miles. Minehead lies a hundred and fixty-feven miles from London ; it is a well-built town, and an harbour in the Bridol Channel, much frequented by palTengers to and from Ireland, with which kingdom it carries on a confidcrable trade in wool, and with South Wales ia coals. It has a fine quay, and the largell (hips may enter and ride fafe in the harbour. Three or four thoufand barrels of herrings are here caught, cured, and fliipped off annually for the Levant and other parts. About fourteen miles ead of Minhead, lies Watchet, fituated likewife on the Briftol Channel. There are about feven or eight vedels belonging to this port, which trade in coals, or ferve as coaders to Briftol, where they fupply the glafs-houfes with the a(hes of fca-weed, of which a great quantity is burnt here for that purpofe ; as they alfo do with alabafter, colleCled from the adjacent clilFs. The inhabitants of this town and neighbourhood burn vad heaps of pebble- dones which are found upon the coad, into lime, for dreding their lands, but chiefly for the purpofe of building. Wellington is didant a hundred and fifty-one miles from London. Here is a manufacture of firges, druggets, and other woollen ftufl^s, with a conlidetabie pottery. Taun» I> : ill- 360 T H E M O D Taunton it pletfantly fituated, a hunilrehall, with the outward-gate, and porter's lodge, are yet (landing. In the hall the af- fites for the county are generally held, A fine bridge is ere£led here over the Tone, It, I a privilege of this placK, that every pot- walloper, i. e, all who drefs their own vi£luals, are entitled to voce at the ele£lion of a member of parliament. In confequence of this privilege, the inmates or lodgcHi, fome time before an eleflion, have each a fire made in the ftrcet, at which they drefs vifluals publicly, left their votei fliould be called in queftion. Many thoufand perfons are here employed in the manufadure of ferges, duroys, fagathies, (halloons, and other woollen ftufifs, for the weaving of which, eleven hundred looms have frequently been employed at a time. The river Tone, by an a£l of parliament pafl'cd in the reign of king William III. was made na- vigable by barges from Taunton to Bridgewater. Somcrton is a port-town, fituated on a branch of the Parret, a hundred and twenty- nine miles from Lon- don, and fcventeen caft of Taunton. The chief fupport of the place is the markets and fairs held fur the cattle which are fed en a neighbouring common. Not far hence is a lleep mountain, called Camalet Hill, faid to be a mile in compafs at the top, where veftiges of a Roman camp are (lill to be feen. Chard is a hundred and forty miles from London, and was made a free borough in the reign of Henry III, a privilege which it has fii.ce loll. It confifts chiefly of four ftreets that terminate near a market- place. Here is a fmall woollen manufaiSlory, and and there are fulling-mills in the neighbourhood, Bridgewater lies a hundred and forty-three miles from London, and is one of the moft confiderable towns in the county. It is fituated upon the river Parret, twelve miles from the Briftol Channel, wh:nce Clips of two hundred tons may come up to its quay. Here is a caftle, built by William de Briveto, lord of Bridgewater, in the reign of king John ; and a church with a fpire, which is one of the lot'tieft in England. Near the church is a large fchool, built of free-ftonc, and under the fchool-room are lodgings for the poor of the parifli. Over the Parret here is likewifc a ftone bridge, begun by the fame William de Brivere who built the caftle, and finilhed by Thomas Trivet, the fucceding lord of the manor. The revenues of the corporation, ct-nfifting of the manor of the borough, the great and /mall tithes, and Come cftates in Dorfctfhire, are valued at ten thoufand R N [EvRorE, pounds a year j and its burgefTei ire free of all th« ports of Lngltnd and Ireland, except London and Dublin. ^ By its convenient fituation Bridgwater carries on a pretty good cnall- trade to Briftol, Wales, and Cornwall ; and upwards of twenty coal-Otips irs conftdnily employed from this port, Irs foreign trade is chiefly to Portugal and Newfoundland, Wool it imported hither in great quantities from Ireland, The receipt of the cuftunis here amounts to upwards of three thoufand pounds a year. The market is the moft confiderable in the uounty for corn, cattle, hogi, (heep, and cheefe i and there is no part of the k-ngdom where provifions may be purchafed cheaper. Langport Hands on the river Parret, fouth-eaft of Bridgewater, at the diftance of a hundred and twenty- nine miles from London, being a great thoroughfare in the road thence to Taunton, and other towns in ' (he Weft. It formerly fent members to parliaaienf, but has loft t5at privilege. A great number of lighten are conftantly employed in bringing coals, and other commodities, to this place from Bridgewater, by the river Parrel, In the river Parret, near its confluence with the Tone, north-weft of Langport, is • fmall ifland* hardly containing two acres of ground, called the Ifle of Athelney ; a name derived from the Saxoa word /Etheling, which fignifies an ijlatid if tnHii. It received its name from being the retreat of the great king Alfred, and a few of his attendants, after he had been defeated by the Danes. That king afterward* built here a monaftery, the foundations of which were difcovered by fome labourers in the year 1674. Among other fubterianeous remains of this building, were found the bafes of church pillars, confifting of wrought free-flone, with coloured tiles, Soon after- wards, near this ifland, was found a fort of medal or piflurc of St, Cuthbert, with a Saxon infcription, importing that it was made by order of king Alfred. It appears, by its form, to have hung by a ftring ; and it is conje£tured, that the king wore it either at an amulet, or in veneration of St. Cuthbert, who it faid to have appeared to him in his troubles, and aflured him of the vifloriei which he afterwards ob- tained over the Danes. Ivelchefter, or Ilchefter, ftands a hundred and twenty-five miles from London, and is a very ancient borough. In the reign of Edward III. the affixes for the county were fixed here ; but they have long ftnce been held alternately at Wells, Taunton, and Bridge- waier. Here, however, the knights of the ihire con- tinue to be eledled. At this place are held the county- courts, and here is the jail for debtoVs and male- fadlors. This town was known to Antoninus by the name of Ifchalis, and was doubtlefs a place of confequence in the time of the Romans. The ruins of a double wall, with which the town was enclofed, are ftill vifibic, and Roman coins, of gold, filver, and brafs, have frequently been dug up here. This town was the birth place of the celebrated Friar Bacon, who lived in the thirteenth century. [Europe. or III th« •ondon and » Iter carries I, W«|„, l-(hipi arc ofeiRn trade Wool it land. The upwardj of rlict ii iho atilf, hogi, le kingdorn England.] CKNERAL TRAVELLER. t ix Ti!, Thii town waa inriently a place nf great import- ance, and very populcut, About the time of the Conquefl it not only had a caltle, whirh ii now in ruins, but wai incompaflrJ with a double will. Over the Ivel it hai a Hone bridge, on whirh are yrt to be I'cen the remains of two uncicnt lowers. it had nifo fcveral parifh churches, though now there is but one. At prefent its chief dependence is upon the county jail, on which accnunt it cannot be fuppolcd to be an agreeable refidcnce, A pUce called King's- moor in the neighbourhood, is famous for horfe-races, Yeovel flandi alfo upon the river Ivel, a hundred and twenty-three miles from London. I'he Iheeis are narrow, and the houfes for the niofl part mean ; but the town is of confiderable extent, and a great thoroughfare in the poft-road to Cornwall. Milbcrn-Port is a hundred and fixlecn miles diOant from London, tnd was a borough at the time of the Conqueft. The town has a church, but the houfes are detached from one another, in a very irregular manner, Glaftonbury ii fituated a hundred and twenty miles from London, in a peninfula, formed by the river •nd a fmall rivulet. The peninfula is called the Ifle of Avalon, a name fuppofed to be derived from Avatia, which, in the ancient Britifh language, fignifies ap- plit for the production of which this fpot may for- merly have been famous. Before the dlflblution of monafteries, Glallonbury was a place of great note ; for by fome ruins that flill remain, the abbey here appears to have been extremely magniftcent. The abbot, befldes enjoying great revenues, was diftin- guifhed with peculiar marks of honour. He had the title of lord, and fat among the barons in parliament. The town, while under the protedlion of its abbots, was a parliamentary borough ; but at the dilTulution of the abbey, it not only loP- this privilege, but the rights of a corporation, till thefe were reOored by queen Anne, who granted it a new charter. Here are two parifli churches, in the AruAure of which there ii nothing remarkable. The only manufa^ure carried on in the place is that of Aockings ; and the chief fubfidence of the town arifes from the great refort of people to fee the ruins of the abbey. This celebrated ftruflure is reckoned tHe mod an- cient Chriltian church in Great Britain, and is faid to have been founded by Jofeph of Arimathea, about thi.'.y-one years after the paflion of our Saviour. The firlt congregation of regular monks in Britain, is alfo faid to have been in this place, and to have been col- lefted by St. Patrick in the year 435. This monaftery was afterwards mod liberally endowed by king Ina, Edmund the Elder, and other Saxon kings and nobles, Benedi£)ine n-onks were firft brought into it by St. Dunftan, in the year 954. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and at the time of its fuppredion, the revenues were valued at 3311 1. 7 s. 4 d. pir annum. The vaft ruins which remain of this magnificent monaftery confift of large walls overgrown with ivy : the abbot's kitchen, built of flone, is ftill entire ; and upon the top of the Torr are noble ruins of a church which belonged to the abbot. No. 30. Glaflonbury was once fam >ui for a kind of ha«f« thorn ttrc, rt-ckonrd hy bui.imAs a fprcici nf mcf< pilus or mrdl.ir. Tint tree was bclicvitd to have been prcdu«ing cities and boroughs t Balh, Hriftol, Willi, llridgwater, Ilchcfler, Milborn-port, Minchead, and 'i°aiiiiioii. c n A p. IV. Iflltjhir/, «nd Bnifiiri, WILTSniKK is bounded on the weft by Somerfeifkire \ on the north and north-weft by Gloucefterfliire 1 on the norih-eaft by tierkfbire 1 on the fouih-eaft by HampOiire > and on the fouth by Oorfetfhire. It extends in length from north to fouth forty miles, and in breadth thirty. The principal rivers in this county are the Thames, the Upper and Lower Avon, the Neddcr, the Willey, the liourne, and the Kennct. The Thames enter* the north part of this county, from Gloucefterfliire, near its fource, and runs eaftwarJ, by Cricklade, into netkfliite. The Upper Avon rifes in the middlu of the county near. Devises, and runs fuuthward, by Salilbury, into Hampfbire. 'i'he Lower Avon has its fuurce in Ulouceftcrftiire, and entering, this county near Malmeft>ury, runs fouth by Chippenham, after which, turning weftward, it feparates the couniiei of Glouccfter and Somerfet, as formerly mentioned. The Neddcr rifes near Shaftfbury in Dorfetfliire, upon the borders of this county, and running north-caft, in a ferpcntine courfe, falls into the Willey at Wilton. The Willey rifes near Warminftcr, and running fouth-eaft, after receiving the Nedder, falls into the Upper Avon, on the weft fide of Salifbury. Tht Kennet rifet near the fpring of the Upper Avon, and runs eaftward by Marlborough into Berklhire. The lefs confiderable rivers of this county are tht Calne, the Were, and the Deveril. The air of Wiltfhire is dry and healthy : it is Iharp on the hills, but mild in the vallies, even in winter. I'he northern part uf this county, called North Wilt- fhire, abounds with pleafant eminences and clear ftreams, forming a variety of delightful profpe£ls ; the fouthern part is extremely fruitful ; and the middle, called Salifbury Plains, from the city of that name, con- filh chiefly of downs, which afford excellent pafture lor Ihcep. The foil of the hills and downs in gene- ral is chalk and clay, but ttie interjacent valleys abound with corn fields and rich meadows. In fome parts of Wiltfhire, particularly about Eaft Lavington, is found a fort if herbage, called knotgrafs, near twenty foot in leng.h, and ufed in feeding hogs. The north part of tiic county yields plenty of wood ; and in the fuuth p.irts, particularly at Cbilmark, near Hindon, arc excellent quarries, where the ftones are very large ; fome of them being fixty foot in length, and twelve in thicknefs, without a flaw. As there is nocoal in this county, fuel i$ fcarce. Here are made great quantities of good cheefe : and the bcft fort of broad cloth, both white and dyed, is manufa£lured. Wiltfhire is divided into twenty-nine hundreds, and contains one city, with twenty-four market towns. It England.) GENERAL TRAVEI, LER. 3*3 liri in the province of Cjnterhury, and dioctfo uf Ss- lllbury,in>l cuni|i>i'« llircc hundred ind four parifhci. 'I'lic city ii Siliibury, or New Siruin, and the mar- ket ti)wn» are Ambrtrtiury, Auburn, ncdwin CJreal, Kradloid, C'alne, Chi|>peiiham, Criciilade, Deviic*, Dowiiion, Hareflmry, Highworth, ilindun, Living- ton ^^f\, I.ud|{erfhall, Malmelbury, MarlbaruU);h, Merc, Old S.irum, Swindon, Trowbridge, Witrminller, \Vcllbury, Wilton, and Wotton- Ballet. Sulilbury is diliant Ironi London eighty-three milet. It il a biftiop'i fee, and owei ii» origin tu a cathedral founded here in lilc), by bifliop Poor, who removed hither rrom Old Sarum, upon which the greater part of the ciiiseni of that place followed him, and the new town incteafed (o fall that it wai incorporated by king ticnry IIL Salifliury ia watered by the Upper Avon on the well and fouth, and by the Uuurne on the cad, and the water of the former running through the (Ireeti in canala lined with brick. It ii a large, well-built, clean city, the llrceti generally fpacioui, and their direction running at right anglci. The cathedral, which wai flnillicd in 1258, it built in the Gothic ftylc, and the mod elegant and regular in the kingdom. It is in the form ot a lanthorn, having in the middle a beautiful Ipircof free (lone, four hundred and ten foot high. I'hc length of the church is four hundred and feventy-cight foot, the breadth revciity- fix, and the height of the vaulting eighty- foot. The outfide appears fingularly magnificent, confiding en> tirely of buttrelTes and windows, the latter of which are faid to be as many as the days of the year. The cathcd/al ha* a cloyfter, a hundred and fifty foot fquare, and of a* fine workmanfhip as any in Eng- land, The chapter- houfe, which is an o£tagon, mea- fures a hundred and fifty' foot in circumference} yet the roof bears upon one fmall pillar in the centre, fo much too weak in appearance for the fupport of fueh a weight, that the conllrudion of this building Is reckoned one of the greateft curiofities of the kind in Europe. Here is a library well furnifhed with books, belong- ing to the cathedral ; and adjoining to it is a clofc, for the refidcnce of the canons and prebendaries, which is fo large and well built, that it looks like a fine city of itfelf. Befides the cathedral there are three other churches ; but none of thofe has vaults, nor arc there cellars in any part of the city, the foil being fo moift, that the water rifes up in graves dug in the cathedral, and is fometimcs too foot deep in tl e chapter-houfe. This city has a fpacious miirket-place, in which is a fine town-houfe. The m.inufaflures are flan- nels, druggets, and the cloths called Salifbury whites. Salifbury is alfo famous for the manufa£lures of bone- lace and fciOars ; and may be reckoned as flourifhing a city as any in England, that depends entirely on a home trade. Old Sarum, or Salifbury, lies a mile northward of the city of Salifbury, and was formerly the ice of a bifhop^ho hii'J here a caftle and a cathedral j but king Steplicn quarrelling with bifhop Roger, feized the caflle, and put a garrifon in it. This event was foon followrd by the iranllaiion of iht cpifcopal feal tu (he adjacent vallty, where the cily of balifburjf now flands 1 the liluaiion of which being more con* veiiient, the old town was abandoned by in iiiliibl* tanti, and at prefent confilli of only a fingit farm* houle, It continues however to fend to parliament two members, who are clcArd by the pnipritiors of ccr* tain adjacent lands. Old Sarum had ancitnily iha names of Sorbiodunum, Sarum, and Streria 1 and was much frei|uented in the lime of the latter cm* perors, as appear* from the coini of Con(lanc«i Maj^nentiui, ConDantine, and Crifpui, found at tbia place. Six miles north of th« city, on Salifbury Plain, is the celeorated Slone>henge, a pile of huge flonci, concerning the origin, ufe, and Itrudllura of which, antiquaries are much divided in opinion. The nam* jhnf-h/nit is purely Saxon, and fignifies hanfinf /Itut, or A Jlini falhutt. It probably alludues to the difpo- fition of feveral of the ftones of which this extraordi* nary fabric confifli. Some however conJeAure the true name to be Stonhengefl, and fuppofe the Aonw to be a monument credied by Ambrofiui, a Britifk king, in memory of the Britons (lain at or near this place, hy Hengifl the Saxon. But Or. Stukeley, who not many years ago wrote a learned ireatife on ibis piece of antiquity, hai endeavoured to fhew that the original name of Stone-henge was amirit, whence he fiippofei the adjacent town of Ambrefbury to have been denominated. The anciert Britons called it choir-gaur, which Dr. Stiikely is of opinion fignifiei the grtat church, or caibidral. The choir-gaur, of the ancient Britons was by the monks latinised thtrM gigoHtum, or the giants danti, a name fuited to iht fuperditious notions they entertained of its (IruAure. Stone-henge is fituatcd near the fummii of n hill, and conflds of the remain* of two circular and two oval ranges, of rough ftones, having one common centre. The outer circle is a hundred and eight foot in diameter, and, when entire, confided of thirty upright ftones, feventein of which are yet danding, and feven more lying upon the ground, either whole or in pieces. The upright ftones are from eighteen to twenty foot high, from fix to feven foot broad, and about three foot thick. Being placed at the dif- taacc of three foot and a half one from another, they are conne£led at top by impofts, or ftones laid acrofs, with tenons fitted to mortifes in the uprights. Of the impofts, or crofs ftones, fix are yet ftanding, each of which is feven foot long, an 1 about three foot and a half thick. The upright ftones have been wrought a little with a chifTel, and are fomething tapered towards the top, but the . npods are quite pl.-in. All the uprights are fixed ir • kind of focket;, dug in a chalky foil, with fmall flints rammed between the done and the focket. The inner circle, which never had any impofts, is a little more than eight foot fiom the infide of the outward one, and confided originally of forty ftonet, the general proportions of which are half the dimen- fions of the abovementioned uprights every way. Of the forty ftones which originally cempofed this circle, about fl'f i 1. II ilif II ill'' ■ m iH T II E M O D E R fEuROPE. •bout nineteen remain, and of thefe only eleven are ! Soon after tlic appearaiuw of this iivaii.'v, Mr. {landing. The walk between the two circles is three j Webb, fun-in-luw of luigo Jones, publiflied a vindica- hundred iool in circumference ; and from this walk the ftruiSure has an awful effeiEt on the beholders. At the diftance of about nine foot from the inner tion of the opinion of his father-in-law on this fubje£>. But antiquaries have fince agreed, that it was a tem- ple of the Druidi, buih, as J)r. Stukeley think-, circle, is the outer oval range, which it fuppofed to j before the Belga; came into Britain, and not long after be the principal part of the work, and by mod writers is called the cell and the adytum. The ftones that compofe it are fiupendous, fome of them meafuring thirty foot in height. This range confifts of five rompages, or trilithons, as they are fometimes called, .being formed of two uprights, with an impoft at top, like the outer circle ; and of thefe compages three are entire, but two fomewhat decayed. The in- ner oval is compofed of twenty ftones, each about fix foot high ; and near the eaftern extremity of this oval, is a ftone of coarfe blue marble, about fixteen foot long-, and four broad, which lies flat upon the ground, is fomewhat prelTed into it, and fuppofed to have been an altar. This work is enclofed by a deep trench, near thirty foot broad, and upwards of a hundred foot from the outer circle. Over this trench are three entrances, the moft confiderable of which faces the north-eaft. At each entrance, on the outfide of the trench, there feems to have been two huge ftones fet up in the man- ner of a gate ; and parellel to thefe, on the infide, two other ftones, of a fmaller fize. The whole num- ber of ftones originally compofing th'> ftruAure, is computed to be exa£tly a hundred and forty. The rude magnitude of Stone-henge has rendered it the admiration of all ages. As the enormous ftones which compofe it, appear too big for land carriage, and as Salifbury Plains, for many miles round, hardly afford any ftones, it has been imagined by fome anti- quaries that thefe ftones arc artificial, and have been made upon the fpot. Moft authors, however, are agreed, that the ftones are all natural, and that they were brought from a quarry, called the Grey Wethers, on Marlborough Downs, near the town of that name, at the diftance of fifteen or fixteen miles north of Stone-henge. The ufe and origin of this work has been the fubjeft of various conjeflures. The common tradition ii, that Stone-henge was built by Ambrofius Aurclianus, as already mentioned. Some have fuppofed it to be a funeral monument, raifed to the memory of a brave commander ; and others maintain that it was eredled in honour of Hengift, the Saxon general j but the ftru£lure is, probably, more ancient. Sammes, in his Antiquities of Britain, conjeAures it to have been a work of the Phoenicians ; and the fam^'<« Inigo Jones, in a treatifc called Stone-henge Keflureo, attempts to prove that it was a temple of the Tufcan order, built by the Romans, and dedi- cated to the god Coeium, or Terminus, in which he is confirmed by its having been open at top. Dr. Charleton, phyucian to king Charles II. wrote a trea- tife called Stone-henge Reftored to the Danes, attempt- ing to prove that it was a Danifti monument, ere£ted either as a burial place, as a trophy for fome viiSory, «r fur the elc£liun and coronation of their kings. Cambyfes invaded ligypt, where that prince commit- ted fuch horrid outrages among the priefts and inha- bitants in general, that they difperfed themfelvcs iiita all quarters of the world, when fome of them, it n imagined, arrived in Britain. This fa£l Dr. Stukeley thinks the more probable, as the Phcenicia.i tradi , which aflforded a ready conveyance into this '.ouiitry, was then at its height. He therefore conjectures that the Egyptians introduced their arts, learning, and religion among the Druids, and probably had a hand in eie&ing Stone-henge ; this being the only work of the Druids in which the ftones are chilFeled, The heads of oxen, deer, and animals with wood- aflies, and other apparent relics of facrifices, have been dug up in and about thofe ruins. Around theoi is alfo a great number of barrows, or , monumental heaps of earth thrown up in the form of a bell, anil each enclofed with a trench from a hundred and five to a hundred and feventy foot in diameter. Thefe bar- row: extend to a confiderable diftance, but are all To placed as to be feen from the fuppofed temple. In fuch barrows as have been opened, fkeletont, or the remains of burnt bones have been found. In one of them was an urn, containing aOies, fome bones, and other fubftances, which the funeral pile had not confumed. By the collar-bone, and one of the jaw-bones, which were entire, it was judged that the perfon there buried muft have been about fourteen years old ; and from fome female trinkrts, with the brafs head of a j.ivelin, the body was conjeAurcd to be that of a girl who had carried arms. The trinket! confifted of a great number of glafs and amber beads, of various ftiapes, fizes, and colours, with a fliarp bodkin. In fome other barrows were found human bones, mixed with thofe of horfes, deer, dogs, and other beafts and birds : in others fome bits of red and blue marble, and chipping of ftones ; and in fome a brafs fword, with an ancient brafs inftrument, called a celt. Upon the whole, the moft probable conjedlure is, that Stone-henge has been a temple in fome remote period ; and antiquaries muft ever regret, that a tabia of tin, with an infcription, which was difcovered here in the reign of Henry VIII. and might probably have confirmed this opinion, ftiould not be preferved. But as the cbaraflers were not underftood by fuch as were cunfulted upon the occafion, the plate was def« troycd, ur at leaft thrown by and luft. At Frippftjury, north-eaft of Salilbury, there is a very large intrenchment, of a rude circular form, with a deep ditch and a high rampart : the diameter is about three hundred paces ; and about eighty paces within the outer circumvallation, is another deep trench, but no rampart. Downton, or Doncketon, is picafantly fituatcd on the bank of the Upper Avon, at the diftance of eighty- free rchool. Upon the river Willcy, not far from Harefbury, is a very large camp, fortified with a deep double ditch, and called Yanefbury-Caftle, From its figure, it is by fome fuppofed to be Roman, and to have been the encampment of Vefpafiaii, when he was lieutenant of the twentieth legion, under Claudius. Others, how- ever, are of opinion, that this camp was Danifli. Warminfter ftands upon the river Deveril, at the diftance of ninety-nine miles from London, and had formerly great privileges, among which was an ex- emption from every kind of tax. It is a populous place, with very good inns, and has the greateft trade in malt of any town in the weft of England ; befidcs a confiderable traffic in cheefe, wool, and cloth. On the eaft fide of this town are two camps, one with double worlcs, called lialtlefbury, fuppofed to have been thrown up by the Danes ; and the other a I'quare, fingle trenched fortification, called Scratch- bury, Weftbury, fo called from its fituation in the wcft- ern part of the rounty, near the river Were, lies ninety-five miles from London, and is fuppofed to No, 3J. particularly druggets. Here is al fo one of the belt markets in England for corn, wool, horfes, and all forts of cattle. On a hill called Rundway-hill, near this town, is a fquare camp, with a Tingle trench, fuppofed to be Roman ; and many Roman coins, of different em- perors, as well as other antiquities, have been found in the neighbourhood, Heddington, about four miles north of Devizes, was a Roman town, and the foundations of the houfei are yet vifible for the fpace of a mile. Some anti- quaries, are of opinion that this was the Verlucio mentioned by Antoninus ; but the greater number place Verlucio about half a mile north of Weftbury, where the ruins of a large town have been difcovercd, and many Roman coins dug up. Camden, however, places Verlucio at Warminfter, Ludgerlhall lies fifty- feven miles from London, and is a borough by prefcription. It confifts on,y of a few mean houfes, and contains nothing worthy of notice. Not far from the town, however, are the remains of a great caufeway fuppofed to have been a Roman vicinal way; as alfo the veftiges of a vaft 4 Y foiti- ■M lij ir-: — nr V ■J. \. '\ ,v •/ 36- abq ftaa hun ' the / c'lK cos thir com bein top, thre foot oval foot . \. grcu have T foot ' outei theo ' each " feemi ner two I , . ber < ■ comp T\ the a( which and X . S afford |.!<|T '-'-.' >^? quarie ".' madQ. agreed were ji' "" on Ml . . ■ . at the diftance of fifteen or fixteen miles north of Stone-henge. The ufe and origin of this work has been the fubjeft of various conje£lures. The common tradition ii, that Stone-henge was built by Ambrofius Aurclianus, as already mentioned. Siome have fuppofed it to be a funeral monument, raifed to the memory of a brave commander ; and others maintain that it was ere£led in honour of Hengid, the Saxon general ; but the Aru£lure is, probably, more ancient. Sammes, in his Antiquities of Britain, conjeRAL TRAVELLER. i6s eighty-four miles from London, and is a borough by prefcription. Wilton lies northward of Salifbury, eighty-feven miles from London, and derives its name from being fituated upon the bank of the river Willey. In the time of the Saxons it was a bifhop's fee, with twelve pariih churches, and the great road from London to the Weft of England pafTed through it ; but in the reign of Edward IIL Robert Wyvil, bifliop of Salifbury, having by the Icing's grant, turned the weftern road through Salifbury, this town foon declined. It is now a mean place, with only one church, and a carpet manu- faflure. But here is a magnificent houfe belonging to the earl of Pembroke, which was begun in the reign of king Henry VIII. on the ruins of an abbey. This place is particularly remarkable for its collec- tion of paintings and antique ftatues, which is reck- oned one of the noblcft in Europe. Ambrefbury is dillant from London eighty miles, and has a handfome church. About the year 980, Alfrida, the queen dowager of king Edgar, founded a Bionaftery here for nuns of the Benedii^ine order, which (he dedicated to St. Mary and St. Melorius. In 1117, the abbefs, with about thirty nuns were expelled for incontinency ; and Henry II. afterward!! removed hither a priorefs and twenty-four huns, from Font Ebrald in Normandy ; to which this houfe wa^ for fome time, fubje£l -, but it was at length made a denizen, and became again an abbey, Hindon lies ninety-four miles diftant from London, and is a great thoroughfare to the fouth parts of So- merfetfliire. It is a fmall town, and has a manu- faflure of fine twill. Mere is fituated upon the borders both of Dorfet- fhire and Somerfetlhire, a hundred and two miles from London, and is a confiderable ftaple for wool. Hare(bury, or Heightlbury, lies ninety-nine miles from London, and is a borough by prefcription. Here is a collegiate church with four prebendaries, and a free fchool. Upon the river Willey, not far from Harelbury, is a very large camp, fortified with a deep double ditch, and called Yanefliury-Caftlc. From its figure, it is by fome fuppofed to be Roman, and to have been the encampment of Vefpafian, when he was lieutenant of the twentieth legion, under Claudius. Others, how- ever, are of opinion, that this camp was Danifli. Warminfter ftands upon the river Deveril, at the diflance of ninety-nine miles from London, and had formerly great privileges, among which was an ex- emption from every kind of tax. It is a populous place, with very good inns, and has the greatefi trade in malt of any town in the weft of England j befidcs a confiderable traffic in cheefe, wool, and cloth. On the eaft fide of this town are two camps, one with double works, called Battleflsury, fuppofed to have been thrown up by the Danes ; and the other a Iquare, fingle trenched fortification, called Scratch- bury, Weftbury, fo called from its fituation in the weft- ern part of the county, near the river Were, lies ninety-five miles from London, and is fuppofed to No, 31. have derived its origin from a Roman ftation about half a mile to the northward. It was formerly en- dowed with great privileges, and has at prefent a good church, with a manufaflure of coarfe and broad clothf and a great market for com. On the eaft fide of Weft6urf, at Bratton-Caftle, are the traces of a vaft fortificati6n, of an oval firm, into which the Danes fled, and where they defended •hemfelves fourteen days, after being defeated by king Alfred, in a battle fought in this neighbourhood. This fort is furrounded by two ditches, where feveral pieces of old iron armour have been dug up ; and about the middle is a large oblong barrow, fixiy paces in length, fuppofed to have been the burying-place of fome of the Danifh nobility. Trowbridge lies ninety-nine miles from London, and has a manutaflure of broad-cloth for the moft part of the fine fort, mixed with Spanifh wool. The court of the duchy of Lancafter for this county, is held here annually about Michaelmas. Bradford is fituated at the diftance of ninety- eight miles from London, upon the bank of the Lower Avon, over which there is here a bridge. This town has likewife a great manufacture of broad cloth. Lavington, called alfo Eaft Lavington, and Market Lavington, to diftinguifli it from Weft Lavington, or fiifhop's Lavington, a village in the neighbourhood, is diftant from London eighty-feven miles, and has a charity fchool for thirty-fix children, with fome alms- houfes. At Cafterly, norih-eaft of the town, there is a large irregular camp, with a fingle trench, fup- pofed to be Roman. The Devizes, or the Vies, is fituated eighty- nine miles from London, on an eminence, and confiftt chiefly of two long ftreets, running parcllel to each other. It is large and populous, but the buildings are old, and for the moft part of timber. The town is ill fupplied with water, but has a confiderable trade in malt, and a good manufadlure ' woollen cloths, particularly druggets. Here is alfo one of the beft markets in England for corn, wool, horfes, and all forts of cattle. On a hill called Rundway-hill, near this town, is a fquare camp, with a fingle trench, fuppofed to be Roman; and many Roman coins, if different em- perors, as well as other antiquities, have been found in the neighbourhood. Heddingcon, about four miles north of Devizes, was a Roman town, and the foundations of the huufes are yet vifible for the fpace of a mile. Some anti- quaries, are of opinion that this was the Verlucio mentioned by Antoninus ; but the greater number place Verlucio about half a mile north of Weftbury, where the ruins of a large town have been difcovered, and many Roman coins dug up. Camden, however, places Verlucio at Warminfter. Ludgerfhall lii-s fifty- feven miles from London, and is a borough by prefcription. It confifts only of a few mean houfes, and contains nothing worthy of notice. Not far from the town, however, are the remains of a great caufeway fuppofed to h,.ve been a Roman vicinal way; as alfo the veftiges of a vaft i 4 Y foni- 366 H MOD N [EUROPI. !lj :3i I a fortification, of an oval figure, with fonie barrows, afcribed to the Danes. Bedwin, called alfo Great Bedwin ftands upon the borders of Berkfliire, feventy-two miles from London, and is a borough by prefcription. It has a fpacious church, built in the_ form of a crofs, with a high tower in the middle. Here Clfca, viceroy of 'Wiltfliire and Berkfliire, under a king of the Well Saxons, built a caftle, the ditches of which are yet vifible. Marlborough ftands feventy>five miles from London, and is a borough by prefcription. It is a well built town, confifting chiefly of one broad ftreet, with a piazza along one fide of it. It is a great thoroughfare from London to Bath and Briftol, and is well furnifliea with convenient inns. It was the Cun£iium of the Roman* j and here are the ruins of a caftle, which feems to have been a Roman work. On a hill north of Marlborough are the ruins of a vail fortification, called Barbary-Caftle. It is fur- rounded with a double ditch, and fuppofed to be the place where Kenrick, king of the Weft Saxons, and bit fon, CeauUn, fought againft the Britons, in the year 556. On the eaft-fide of MartenfalUHill, fouth of Marl- borough, there is a quadrangular camp with a Angle trench, fuppofed to have been Roman. At Abury, on Marlborough Downs, near the town of that name, are a few huge ftones, like thofe of Stone-henge. Thefe ftupendous remains are alfo fup- pofed to be the ruins of an ancient temple of the Druids. Dr. Stukeley is of opinion, that this temple it much more ancient than Stone-henge. A high ram. part, with a proportionable ditch on the inCde, fur- rounds it; and the whole village is now contained within its circumference. From Abury to Weft Kennet, there is a kind of walk, about a mile long, which was once enclofed on both fides with large ftones : on one fide the inclofure is broke down in many places, and the Hones taken away, but the other fide is almoft entire. On the brow of a hill near this walk, is a round trench, incloflng two(irclesof ftones, one within another. The dia- meter of the outer circle is a hundred and twenty foot, and that of the inner forty-five foot. The ftones are about five foot in height. At the diftance of about two hundred and forty-foot from this monument, great quantities of human bones have been difcovered, which are fuppofed to be thofe of tho Saxons and Danes, flain at the batt'e of Kennet in 1006. In a field near Kenm t, are three huge ftones, called the Devil's Carts : they ftand upright, and are fup- pofed to have been Britifh deities. On Oldbury-hill, near the fame place, is a large oval camp, with dou- ble trenches, fuppofed to be Danifh. Calne is eighty-eight miles diftant from London, and is a borough by prefcription. It ftands on a ftony hill, near a fmall river of the fame name, that runs into the Lower Avon. It is a well-built, populous, little town, a.id has a manufacture of cloth. This was one of the feats of the Weft-Saxon kings, Ethel- red had a palace at (Jofham, not far from Calne } and at Chippenham, LudgerOiall, and Courtfield, near Weftbury, there were palaces of other Saxon kings. Chippenham is diftant from London ninety.four miles, and was a borough by prefcription, but after- wards incorporated by queel^ Mary. Here is a bridge of fixteen arches over the Lower Avon, and a manu« fadture of cloth. At Weft-Kington, north-weft of Chippenham, near the Fofli; way, there is a camp, with a fingle ditch, fuppofed to be Roman ; and at Burywood, weft of Chippenham, is another camp, with a double intrench- ment. Wotton-Baffet lies feventy-eight miles from London, and is a borough both by prefcription and charter. It is a mean place, but has a fmall manufadlureof cloth. Malmft)ury ftands on a hill at the diftance of eighty- nine miles from London, and was iirft incorporated by Edward king of the Weft Saxons, about the year 916, It is a neat town, with a parifh church, which was formerly an abbey church, and where is ftill to be feen the fepulchral monument of king Arthur, who is faid to have been buried under the high altar. The town carries on a confiderabie trade in the woollen manufaftu-;} and here are no lefs than fix brid^et over the Lower Avon. At Remble, north-eaft of Malmfbury, theconfular way of the Romans, called the Fofle-way, enters this county out of Gloucefterfliire. Sherfton, near thi« place, is fuppofed to have been a Roman ftation, from Roman coins that have been frequently found here. There are in the neighbourhood feveral barrows, Swindon is a fmall inconfiderable town, at the diftance of feventy-three miles from London. Wan- borough, two miles eaftward, is fuppofed to have been a Roman town, from the great quantity of Roman coins which have been difcovertd. Cricklade is eighty-one miles diftant from London, and is a borough by prefcription. Some writers, who have called this town Griitlade, relate that there was here formerly a Greek fchool, which being tranflated to Oxford, gave origin to the univerfiiy of that city. As this ftory, however, fcems to be founded entirely on the fimilarity of the two names, it is generally believed that the latter was invented to fupport the fiflion. Highworth is feventy-three miles diftant from Lon- don, and derives its name from its fituation on a high hill, near the borders of Berkfliire, It commands an extenfive profpeA, but contains nothing worthy of note. Wiltfliire fends to parliament thirty-four members, viz. two for the county, two for the city of Salift)ury, and two for each of the following boroughs, namely. Old Sarum, Marlborough, Devizes, Malmftiury, Chip- penham, Calne, Crikclade, Great Bedwin, Hindon, Downton, Hareftjury, Ludgerfliall, Wilton, Weft- bury, and Wotton BalTet. BERKSHIRE. Berkfhire is bounded on the fouth by Hampfliire ; on the weft by Wiltfliire and Glouccfterfliire ; on the north by the river Thames, which feparatcs it £nqland.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 3«7 at the Weft- ie from Oxferdftir* and Buckinghamfliire i and on the ead by Middlefex and Surry. It extends in length about thirty-nine miles, and in breadth in the wideft part twenty-nine miles. The principal river in this county is the Thames, befides which there are four others ; viz. the Kennct^ great part of which is navigable ; the Lodden, the Oche, and the Lambourne, a fmall ftream which is remarkable for being always highell in fummer, (hriiilc- ing gradually as winter approaches, and at laft becom- ing nearly, if not quite dry. The air of Berlcfhire is healthy, and though the foil in general U not remarkably fertile, the face of the county is pleafantly diverfified with hills and valleys, and wood and water, which are feen at once in almoft every profpeil. The county is well ftored with tim- ber, particularly oak and beech ; and fome parts of it produce great plenty of wheat and barley. The moft fruitful parts are the banks of the Thames and the Kennet, with the country about Lambourne, towards the borders of WiltQiire ; thofe which lie towards Surry being generally ccverid with woods. This county is fituated in the province of Canter- bury, and diocefe of Salifbury, and contains a hundred and forty parilhes : it is divided into twenty-two hun- dreds, and comprifcs twelve market-towns, but has no city. Thofe towns are Abingdon, Hungerford, Far- rington, Maidenhead, Eaft-illey, Newbury, Lower- Lambourne, Wallingford, Ockinghr,m, Wantage, Reading, and Windfor. Lower-Lambourne is fituated near the borders of Wiltfhire, and derives its name from the fmall river Lambourne, which rifes near it. The to.vn is a place of little note, but not far hence is the moft remark- able curiofity in the county. This is the rude figure of a white horfe, which occupies almofi; an acre of ground, on the fide of a green hill, thence called White-Horfe-Hill. A horfe being the device in the Saxon ftandard, fome have imagined that this figure was made by Hengift, one of the Saxon kings ; but Mr. Wife, the author of a Letter to Dr. Mead on this fubjed, endeavours to evince that it was made by order of Alfred, in the reign of his brother Ethelred, as a monument of his vidnry gained over the Danes, in the year 871, at Aflidown, now called Aflien or Aflibury Park, the feat of Lord Craven, not far from this hill. Others however fuppofe it to have been partly the efi'edl of accident, and partly the work of of flicpherdi. Whatever have been its origin, a cuf- tom has prevailed for time immemorial among the neighbouing peafants, to afiemble on a certain day about mid fummer, and clear away the weeds from this figure, after which the evening is fpent in mirth and fefiivity. To the north of this hill there is a long valley reaching from the weftern fide of the county, as far as Wantage, which is hence called the Vale of White Horfe, and is the moft fertile part of BerkOiire. About the head' of the river Ocke, near White- korfe-Hill, is the veftige of a camp, fuppoled to be Danifl), The figure is a kind of quad-angle with the corners cut off, and the diameter is a hundred paces. This piece of antiquity was a few years fince 2 aimed defaced, by digging for ftooes called Sarfdcn^ ftones, to build a houfe for lord Craven in Alhbury- I'ark. Here is alfo another camp of the fame kind, but much larger, fometimcs called U$ngton-Callle j and at the diftance of two furlongs there is a barroWt called Dragon's-Hill, fuppofcd by fonie to be the burial place of Uther Pendragon, of which, however, there is no better evidence than the name. At the diftancc of about a mile from the hill, there are many large ftones, fome of them ftanding on their edges, which appear to have been brought hither witK fome defign, though they now lie in great diforder. Mr. Wife fuppofcs they were erefted as a funeral mo- nument tor a Danifh king, who was Qain in the battle of Aflidown. This place is called Wayland-Smith, by the country people, who have a fabulous tradition that it was once the dwelling of an invifible fmith, and that if a traveller's horfe had lo(l a flioe upon the road, he need only bring the animal to this place, with a piece of money, and leaving both there for a Short time, upon returning he might find the money gone, and tt.. horfe new fhod. Within about two miles of Denc^v/oAh, which lies between Abingdon and the Vale of the Wbite- Horfe, there is an orbicular rampire, fortified with three ditches ; it is called Cherbury-Caftle, and faid to have been a fortrefs of Canutus the Dane. At the diftance of a mile from this eaftle, there at« fome fcattered remains of another ; and between the two* is a round hill, called Windmill-Hill, on which it is ftippofed there was a watch tower, where fignali might bs feen from both forts. Farringdon ilands on a hill near the Thames, fixty* five miles from London, and is a well-built towo* with a large and bandfome chur(:h. Hungerford ilands fixty-four miles from London, in the great road to Bath. It is fituated in a moorifli ground on the river Kennet, and is not confiderable either for its buildings or trade. Newbury ftands fifty, fix miles from London, on the Bath road, and is pleafantly fituated on the river Ken- net, which runs through the town. The ilreets are fpacious, and there is a large market-place. Here it a confiderable manufa£{ure of fhaloo.^i and druggets, as well as of broad cloth ; but at prefent, the latter is not fo flourifliing as formerly. Newbury was fup- pofed to have rifen out of the ruins of the ancient Spinae, a town mentioned by Antoninus in his Itine- rary, and which is now a fmall village in the neigh- bourhood, dill called Spene. In a caflle (landing on the brow of a woody hill, at a village called Denington, or Dunnington, not far from Newbury, Chaucer, the celebrated Englifti poet is faid to have lived ; and till withm thefe few years an oak-tree was ihewn near the eaftle, under which tradition relates that he compofed many of his poems, and which was called Chaucer's oak. Eaft and Weft Enbourne, near Newbury, have long been remarkable for a whimfical cuftom of the manor. The widow of every copynold tenant is en- titled to the whole copyhold cftate of her hu(band, fo l»ng 368 THE M O R N [Europe. Ii?,1 long M (he co.itinuet unmarried and chade. If (he marries, (hfe'lofes her eftate without remedy } but \( (he be guilty of incontinence, (he may recover her forfeiture, by riding into court on the next court day, mounted on a bUck ram, with her face towards the tail, which (he holdi in her hand, and repeating the following linea : Hsrc I am, riding on a black ram, Like a whore as 1 am ; And for my crincum crancum Have loft my bincum bancum, And for my tail's game Am brought to this world's (hame ; Therefore, good Mr. Steward, let me have my lands again, £a(l-llfley ftands fifty-four miles from London, in a (ine fporting country, and in the road from Oxford to Newbury. Its market is famous for (heep, of which great numbers are fed on the furrounding downs. Wantage lies fifty-nine miles from London, on the fide of a fmall river which foon afterwards falls into the Ocke. It is a neat town, fituated likewife in a iine fporting country ; and the downs which are dif- tant about a mile, are famous for horfe- races. In the time of the Saxons this was a royal villa, and has been rend -ed illuftrious by the birth of the great king Alfred, In the neighbourhood is a Roman work, called Ickleton-Way. About a mile from the town, on the brow of a hill, there is a very large camp of a qua- drangular form, with fingle works, which is fuppofed to be Roman. Abingdon, er Abendon, Jands on the banks of the river Thames, at the diftance of fifty-five miles from London. The flreets are well-paved, and cen- ter in a fpacious area, where the market is held, In the middle of this area is the market-houfe, a curious building of a(hler-work, fupported by lofty pillars. Here is a large hall in which the aflizes are held, and other public bufinefs tranfafled. The trade of the town confifts chiefly in barley and malt, great quan- tities of which are fent in barges to London. Abingdon is thought by bifhop Gibfon to be the place called in the Saxon annals Clovefhoo, and where two fynods are faid to have been held, one in the year 742, and the other in 822. - Wallingford is diftant from London forty-fix miles. It is a large town, and ftands on the river Thames, over which it has a ftone bridge, of nineteen arches, befides four draw-bridges. Of fourteen churches, which were formerly in this place, only one remains. The chief manufacture of the town is malt, which it fends by water to London. Wallingford is fuppofed by Camden to have been anciently the chief city of the Attrebatii, called by Antoninus, Galleva, Attrebatum, and by Ptolemy, Galeva. It was once furrounded by a wall and ditch, the traces of which are yet vifible, and are more than a mile in compafs. Here are alfo the remains of a caftle, fuppofed by Can-.den to have been originally huilt by the Romans, and after it had been ruined by the Saxons and Danes, to have been rebuilt by Wil- liam the Conqueror. This caftle was fcatcd on ilie river Thamct, and fortified with a double wall, and three ditches, very wide and deep, which are always lull of water. In the mid.lle there flood a tower raifcd on a high mount, in the afci-nt of which, tamiicn fays, he faw a well of exceeding great depth. The fcite of this ancient caftle, and its remains, now belon" to the college of Chrift-Church at Oxford. Not far hence, on a high hill, called Slnodun-Hill, which is (lill furrounded by a deep ditch, there was a Roman fortification. Reading, the county-town, is fituated fortv-four miles from London, on the bank of the Th.imes. The ftrects of the town are well built, and it is more fpacious and populous than many cities. It ftands lb near the Thames, that the largeft barges come up to the town bridge, where there are commodious whatfa for clearing and loading them. The Kcnnet, which runs through the town, will bear a barge of more than a hundred tons, and is navigable almoft to New- bury. Reading, therefore, has a confiderable trade into the country, but its chief traffic is to London, whither it fends malt, meal, and timber, receiving in return, coals, fait, tobacco, grocery wares, oil, and other commodities. During the Saxon heptarchy, there was at this place a caftle of confiderable ftrength. The Danes, in one of their incurfions into Berkfhire, feized upon thi» caftle, and to fecure the pofTeffion of it, drew a ditch from the Kennet to the Thames. Not long after- wards they abandoned it to the Saxons, who plun- dered and deftroyed the town. The Caftle remained the twelfth century, when it became a refuge for fome of thofe who had taken up arms for king Stephen againft Henry Plantagenet, afterwards Henry II. but the latter forcing them to quit their retreat, entirely demoliftjcd it, and there is not now the fmallcft trace by which its fituation can be difcovcred. At a little diftance from Reading, ftands Laurrnce- Waltham, where are to be feen the foundations of a Roman fort, and Roman coins are often dug up. Ockingham, or as it is fometinics called, Woking- ham, is diftant from London thirty three miles, and IS fituated in Windfor-Foreft. It contains feveral ftreets, and has a manufadlure of filk ftockings and cloth. At Eaft-Hampfted, not far hence, there are the traces of a large Roman camp, which is commonly called Czfar's camp. Maidenhead is diftant from London twenty-eight miles. It ftands in two pariflies, Cookham and Bray, and is well accommodated with inns. Here is a bridge over the Thames j and the town has a confiderable trade in malt, meal, and timber, which are fent in barges to London, Windfor ftands on an eminence, by the fide of the river Thames, twenty-three miles from London, and was originally incorporated by Edward I, Though the town is not of any confiderable extent, here are fe- veral good houfes, with a large church, and a hand- fome town-hall, which was built in the time of king Charles II. At the north-caft end of the town is a caftle reckoned about a mile in circumference, and confift- [EuRoPjf. fcatfJ on tlie ''<■ vva!l, and art; alwayj tower raifcd amdcii fayj, 1 he fcite W" belong to inodun-Hii;, there was a d forty-four he Thames, id it is more It /lands /b conic up to ous wharf* net, which fge of more loft to New- crable trade to London, receiving in es, oil, and at this place >iies, in one ;d upon this rew a ditch long after- who plun- le remained ige for fome ng Stephen ;nry II. but at, entirely nalicft trace s Laurfnce- Iatii)ns of a lug up, I VVoking- miles, and ins feveral ckings and , there are commonly 'enty-eight and Bray, is a bridge onftdcrable fc fcnt in fide of the idon, and Though ere are fe- id a hand- le of king tonn is a !ncc, and confift- England.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. confiding of two fquare courts, one to the eaft, and the other to the weil, with a circular tower between them. In the former there is an old royal palace, and in the middle an cqueftrian ftatue of king Charles II. Merc likewife {lands the houfe lately built by his prefent majefly fur his fummer refidence. On the outfide of this fquare, towards the north, tb'^ eaft, and the weft, there is a noble terrace, whic. in beauty and extent of profpeifl, perhaps exceeds any thing of the kind in Europe. It is faced with free ftone, like the ramparts of a fortified nlace, and is covered with fine gravel. The apartments in the caflle are very fpacious, and richly adorned with fculptures and paint- ings, particularly St. George's hall, where the fove- rcign of the order of the Garter, ufcd to give annu- ally an entertainment to the companions of the order, every St. George's day. I'hc tower, which is the refidence of the conftable or governor, is built in the form of an amphitheatre, very ipfty and magnificent. The VVellern Square is the fame breadth as that to the call, but confiderably longer. On the north fide ot this court or fquare, ftands the chapel of the order qf the garter, dedicated to St. George. Here the knights are inftalled, and in the choir each of them lias a feat or ftall, wiih the banner of his arms fixed over it. This chapel has a dean and fix canons, who have houfes on the north fide of it in the form of a fitlock, which was one of the badges of Edward IV. by whom they were rebuilt. Adjoining there are little cells for eighteen poor knights, originally in- tended for gentlemen who had been wounded in war, impaired 'jy age, or become indigent by misfortune ; but it is not now uncommon for thefe places to be bcftowed even on the menial fervants of noblemen. Each has a penfion of forty pounds a year. They wear a caftbck of red cloth, with a mantle of purple, having St. George's crofs on the left fhoulder. They have (lalls in the middle of the choir, immediately below thofe of the knights of the garter ; and are obliged by their inftitution to go twice a day to church in their robes, to pray for the fovcreign and knights of the order. In the chapel is alfo a chauntry ; and at the weft end of this fquare are the houfes of the choiifters ; at the bottom is the library. This fquare is furrounded with a high wall, as the other is by a terrace ; and both are entered by a me bridge with a gate. At a little diftance ftands Old VVindfor, which has been falling to decay ever fince the time of Edward III. Windfor, fuppofed by fome to fjc the Pontes of An- toninus, was granted by Edward the Confcfibr to Weft- ininfter abbey ; but William the Conqueror being flruck with the beauty of its fituation, procured a Surrender of it in exchange for fome lands in Eflex, and built here a hunting lodge for his own ufe. King Henry I. repaired and fortified it. Edward III. who was born in this fortified houfe, built the caftle nearly as it now ftands, new from the ground, and fortified it with walls, ditches, and a rampart. Henry IV. rebuilt the chapel with much greater magnificence; and feveral elegant improvements and additions were No. 31. 369, made in different parts of the building by king Henr/ VII. and the three fubfequent fovereigng. The tcr- . race was added by queen Elizabeth -, and king Charles II, furnifhed the ':allle with a magaxine of arms. The architcA employed by Edward III. was William of Wickham, afterwards bifbop of Winchcfter, from whom one of the towers is ftiU called Wincheficr Tower. At this place Edward III. is faid to have inftituted the order of the Garter. The patron of this order is St. George of Cappadocia, the tute'.ir faint of Eng- land. Various accounts are related concerning the origin of this order and its enfigns. It is in general agreed, that the king had formed a defign to inftitute a new order of knighthood, to excite and reward mi- litary merit ; but on what account it received the name of the order ol the Garter, h.is never been clearly .-ifcertained. Son.i: have fupjioli-J it to be merely acci- dental, and that the countcfs of Saliftiury, a lady of great beauty, while fhe was dancing in the king's prcfencc dropped her garter ; which he taking up, and perceiving, her confufion, gallantly atoned for it, by making it an enfign of honour, and precluded any flanderous report which fuch an j^ 'ident might pro- duce, by choofing a motto exprcffive of this fentU ment : To him that thinks evil, let evil be. Others report that the king gave the fignal to charge at the battle of Crefly with his ov;n garter, and that proving fuccefsful, he made the garter an enfign of a new order, as a memorial of his own vidlory, and a pledge of conqueft to his knights. Near this place are two parks ; one called the great, and ihe other the little park. The latter is about three miles in compai's, the walks are finely (haded, and it is well ftocked with deer. The great park ia above four miles in circumference : it is beautifully diverfified by nature, and abounds with all kinds of game. A circuit of thirty miles fouth of Wind- for is called the Foreft, which is alfo well ftocked with various animals. Not far from Windfor is a hill, called St. Leonard's hill, where many ancient coins, inftruments of war, and lamps have been dug up. Berkfhire was the diftri<£l which in ancient times was inhabited by the people called the Attrebatii, who are fuppofed to have migrated hither from the Attre- bates in Gaul. This county was once fuperior to all the reft of England in the manufa^ure of wool. At prefent its chief manufaflures are woollen cloth, fail- cloth, and malt. It fends to parliament nine mem- bers, viz. two for the county, two for New Windfor, two for Reading, two for Wallingford, and one for Abingdon. C H A P. V. Middltfex, lyr IDDLESEXis bounded on the weft by Berk- •^ fhire and Buckiiighamftiire; on the north jy Hertfordftiire ; on the eaft by Eflex j and on the fouth by the river Thames, which divides it from the county 4 Z . U sVc ^ ' H E MO D E R N of Suttj, It extend) not above twenty-four miles in length, and hardly eighteen in breadth ; but ai it comprehends the two vaft cities of London and Weft- mintter, which (land In the fouth^eaft p.^ popu- lous diflri£l in England. The rivers of this county are Thames, the Coin, the Lea, and the New River i the Arft of which has been already defcribed. The Coin rifes near Bifliop's-Hatficld, i market- town in Hertfordlhire, whence running fouth-weft, it pafles by Watford, a few miles from which it ntown of this county. The Lea riles in the north-weft of Eflex, and runs almoft direAly fouth, till after feparating EITex from the counties of Hertford and Middlefex, it falls into the river Thames at Blackwall, a village en the eaft fide of London. The New River rifes near Ware, a market-town in Hertfordfiiire, twenty-one miles north of London, to which capital it is conveyed in an artificial channel, which is cut through feveral riling-grounds, and lined with bricks and ftones ; being alfo carried acrofs feveral valley.') in a trough of wood, the bot> torn of which is in fome places fo much above the furface of the ground, that a man, by {looping, may pafs under it. The whole length of its courfe is about thirty-flx miles ; and being colleded in a large bafon, on a rifing-ground near I/lington, at about a mile from London, it is conveyed in va- rious direcSlions, through a number of wooden pipes, to different quarters of the city. In thefe pipes, each of which is feven inches diameter, an almoft infinite number of leaden pipes, of an inch bore, is inferted, and conducted under ground, one to every houfe, the poireflbr of which choofes to be fo fupplied, in all parts of the metropolis. Before this ftupendous work was executed, the city was fup- plied with water chiefly by conduits ereiHed in fuch public places as w;re thought moft convenient, whence the neighbouring inhabitants fetched it in buckets, and filled their cifterns for ufe. The air of Middlefex is pleafant and healthy, which is not a little improved by a fine gravelly foil. The latter produces plenty of corn ; and the county abounds with excellent meadows, gardeners grounds, which, aftifted by the rich compoft from London, yield luxuriant crops. Its natural produAions are cattle, corn, and fruit, and its manufa£lures are too many to be enumerated. It lies in the province of Canterbury, and dioccfe of London ; and exclufive of London and Weft- minfttr, has feventy-three parifhes, befides chapels of cafe. It is divided into fix hundreds, and two liber- ties i containing two cities, and five market-towns. The cities are London and Weftminfter } and the market-towns areBrentford, Edgware, Enfield, Staines, ind Uxbrid(»e. London and Weftminfter, though diftinfl cities in refpefl of their jurifdiAions, are now fo united by the [Europe. fuburbs of each, as to form one vaft metropolis, comprehended under the general name of LONDON. London is fttuated in fifty-one degrees thirty minutes of north latitude ; and being the metropolis of the ilritifli dominions, is the meridian whence all Britilh geographers compute the longitude of places. It is fuppolcd to be equal, if not fupcrior, to every other city upon earth, for the numbers and wealth of its inhabitants, its extenfive commerce, .nnd the variety of charitable foundations for the fupport of the Tick and indigent. So early as the time of the Romans, ir was celebrated for the multitude of its merchants, and the \-. The ftrcets and public buildings in London and its liberties, being far too numerous for a particular de- fcription in this work, we (hall only feleA the moft remarkable, beginning with London-Bridge as the moft ancient, and proceeding in our furvey through the wards into which the city is divided. The original bridge, which ftands in Bridge-ward, was of wood, and appears to have been firft built be- tween the years 993, and 10161 but being burnt down about the year 1136, it was rebuilt of wood in 1163. The expences, however, of maintaining and repair- ing it became fo burdenfome to the inhabitants of the city, that they rcfolved to build a ftone bridge a lit- tle weftward of the wooden one. This building was begun in 1176, and finiftied in (209. It confifted of nineteen arches, was nine hundred and fifteen foot long, forty-four foot high, and feventy-three foot wide ; but houfes being built on each fide, the fpace between them was only twenty- three foot. The narrownefs of this pafTagc having occafioned the lofs of many lives, from the numb:r of carriages continually pair- ing ; and the ftraitnefs of the arches, with the enor- mous fize of the fterlings, which occupied one fourth part of the water-way, and rendered the fall at low- water no lefs than five foot, having alfo occafioned frequent and fatal accidents ; the magiftrates of Lon- don, in 1756, obtained an a£t of parliament for im- proving and widening the pafTage over and through the bridge j which granted them a tnll for every car- riage and horfc palling over it ; and for every vefTel with goods pairing through it : but thefe tolls prov- ing infuflicient, were abolifhed by an a£l made in 1758, for explaining, amending, and rendering the former a£l more eftedlual j and for granting the city of London money towards carrying on that work. In confequence of thefe adls of parliament, a temporary wooden bridge was built, and the houfes on the old bridge iM Enulano.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 37« bridge were talcen down. Inftcad of a narrow fircet, twcncy-thr«e foul wide, there is now a pafTage of thirty- one foot for carnages, with a riifcd pavement of (tone on each fide, fevcn foot broad, for the ufe of foot- pafiengerj. The fidc^ ure fecured by (lone baludradei, enlightened in the night with lamps. The paflage through the bridge ii enlarged, by throwing the two middle arches into one, and by other alterations and improvements ; notwithftanding which, however, it is fiill greatly fubjcA to its former inconveniencies. Under the hitt, feconJ, and fourth arches, from the north fide of the bridge, and now lilcewife towards the foutLern extremity, there are engines, worked by the fluic and reflux of the river ; the water of which they raife to fuch a height, as to fupply many parts of the city. Thofe engines were contrived in 1582, by one Peter Moricc, a Dutchman, and arc called London- Bridge waterhis fortrefs are eleven hamlets, the militia of which, confiding of four hundred men, arc obliged, at the command of the conftable of the Tower, to repair hither, and reinforce the garrifon. On Little Tower Hill is the vi£lualling-o(Ece for the navy. It is fcparated from Tower-Hill by a wall and gate, and contains houfes for the officers, flaughtcr- houfet, (lore-rooms, a brew-houfe, a falting-houfe, and a barrelling-houfe } under the direiSiun of fevcn commiffioners, and other inferior officers. In To.' . ward is alfo the cuilom-houfe, a large, handfome, and coi^iinodious building of brick and (lone. It flands upon the bank of the Thames, and is accpmmodated with large wharfs, keys, and ware- houfes. The cuftom-houfe is governed by nine com- miffioners, who are entruiled with the management of his majefty's cuftoms in all the ports of England. Lime-ilrect ward is remarkhble for a rery large building, of great antiquity, called Lcnien-hall, with flat battlements leaded on the top, and a fpacious fquare in the middle. In this edifice are ware-huufes for the fale of leather, Colchefler baize, meal and wool. Adjoining to Leaden-hall is a market, thence called Leaden-hall market, confifting of five confiderable fquares or courts, and reckoned one of the gieated markets in Europe for flefh and other provifions, as well as for leather, green hides, and wool. In Broad-ilreet ward, till lately, ilood Grefham Col- lege, founded agreeable to the will of Sir Thomas Gre- fham, dated in July 1575, for lectures in divinity, geo- metry, aftronomy, civil law, rhetoric, pbyfic, and mufic. Here was « profefTor of each feience ; with a falary of fifty pounds per annum. , The building was of brick, and covered with flate, inclofing a court of a hundred and forty-four foot fquare. It had a large hall for the public lectures, and commodious apartments for the feveral profefTors. In this ward is alfo the Bank of England, a (lone building, confiding of two quadrangles. The prin- cipal front is about eighty foot in length, of the Ionic order, raifed on a rudic bafement, in a good dyle. The top is adorned with a baludrade, and handfome vafes. In the fird or exterior court is the hall, which is of the Corinthian order, feventy-five foot long, and forty broad. It is wainfcotted about eight foot high, has a fine fretwork cieling, and a datuc of king Wil- liam III. with a Latin infcription. On the ead and weft fides of the interior court, is an arcade ; and on I ■ the 27* T H M O E N [Europe. thu north Mt p the .iccountant's office, which is fixty foot long, and I venty-cighc broad. Over this olHce, .tnd on the other l.-les, arc handfome apartments, with a fine (lair-cafe, adbrned witii fret woric i and under it are large (Irong vaults, with iron gates, for the prefervation of the money. Befidei this edifice, anc'.tiei large building detached from it, and fur- niflied with a variety of accommodations for the pur- pofe of the Hank, has been erected within thefe few years. The Bank is under the management of a go- vernor, a deputy-governor, and twenty-frur direc- tors, cftabliflicd by ail of parliament, in 1693, by the title of the Governor and Company of the Bank of England, The Royal-T rhange, which is the meeting-place of the merchants of London, (lands in the ward of Cornhill, and i^ the (incft and (Irongcd fabric of the kind in Europe. It was (ird built of brick, in 1567, at the expcnceof Sir Thomas Grcfliam, and in 1570, was proclaimed the Royal Exchange, in a folemn man- ner, by herald, by found of trumpet, at the command, and in the prefence of Queen Elizabeth, That (Iruc- ture being dcftroyed by the (ire of London, in 1666, it was rebuilt of Portland (lone ; in the fame manner as it now (lands, at the expence of eighty thoufand pounds. The lird (lone was laid by king Charles II. in 1667, and the building was com- pleted in 1669. The whole is a parallelogram, two hundred and three foot in length, and a hundred and feventy-one foot in breadth, incloflng an area a hun- dred and forty- four long, and a hundred and fevcn- teen foot broad, This are^ is furrounded with piazzas, forming ambulatories for the merchants to Ihelter themfelvcs from the weather. The area is paved with (ine pebbles, and the ambulatories with black and white marble. Upon a marble pededal, in the centre, is a (ine datue of king Charles II, in a Reman habit. Under the piazzas within the Exchange, are twenty-eight niches, all vacant except two ; one in the north- wed angle, where is the datue of Sir Thomas G:e{ham, and the other at the fouth-wed, in which is a datue of Sir John Bernard, a niagidrate of exemplary virtues. Above the arches of the piazzas is an entablature, with curious enrichments, and on the cornice a range of piladers, with an entablature, extending round, and a compafs pediment in the mid- dle of the cornice of each of the four fides. In the inter-columns are twenty four niches, nineteen of which are (illcd with the datues of the fovereigns of England, form the time of kind Edward I. all adorned with the enflgns of royalty, except thofe of king Charles II. king James II. and king George II, which are habited like Roman emperors. On the outfide of the fouth and north fronts of this building is a piazza, and in the middle of each an entrance into the area, under a magnificent arch. On each fide of the fouth entrance, in the inter-columns, is a niche, one containing a datue of king Charles I. and the other of Charles II, both drelTcd in Roman habits, and well executed. Within the piazzas of thofe two fronts, are two fpacious dair-cafes, with iron rails, and black marble ftcps, which lead into a kind of gallery, that extends round the four fidci of the building, in which were about two hundred (hops, now moflly deferted. The height of this building is fixty-iix foot ; and from the centre of the fouth front rifes a turret and lanthorn, a hundred and feventy- eighl foot high, on the top of which is a fane in the form of a grafshopper, of pollfhed brafi, eftcemed a fine piece of workmanlhip. The (ground -floor of this building is taken up in (hops and ofhccs j and under- neath are vaults, which are ufed by the Ead-India company as ware-houfes for their pepper. South of the Royal-Exchange, and near the weft extremity of Lombard-drcct, is the general pod- office, which is a handfome and commodious build- ing. In Walbrook-ward is the manfinn-houfe, fi)r the refidence of the lord-mayor. K dands upon a fpot which was formerly a market for provifions, and called Stocks market. This edifice was begun in 1739, and finidicd in 1753, It is built of Portland done, with a portico of fix fluted columns, of the Corin- thian order, in the front. The b.ifrment dory is very mafiy, and confids of rudic work ; in the center of it is the door, which leads tu the kitchens, cellars, and other offices. On each fide rifes a flinht of flep^, leading up to the portico, in the middle of whirh is the principal entry, 'I'he done biludrade cf ihedairs is continued along the front of the portico, and the columns fupport a large angular pediment, adorned with a group of figures, in bas relief, reprefent ng the dignity and opulence of the city of London. It is an extreme heavy building, of an oblong form, and its depth is the long fide, having feveral magnifi- cent apartments, which are however not well lighted on account of the houfes that furround it. Behind the manfion-houfe is St, Stephen's church, in Walbrook, judly reputed the mader-piece of the celebrated Sir Chriftophcr Wren, and faid to exceed every modern ftru£lure in the world; in proportion .ind elegance. In Dowgate-ward is a noted academy called Mer- chant-Taylors fchool, from its having been founded by the Merchant-Taylors company, in the year 1561. It was dedroyed by the fire of London in 1666, but was rebuilt, and is a very large druflure, with com- modious apartments for the maders and ulhers, and a fine libraiy. Sir Thomas White, lord-mayor of this city, having founded St. John's College in Oxford, in 1557, appointed this fchool ai a fcminary for it, and eftabli(hed at Oxford forty-fix fellowdiips for fcholars elcfled from this fchool. The church of St, Mary le Bow, in Cordwainers- dreet ward, is the mod eminent parochial church iit the city. It w;is originally built in the reign of Wil- liam the Conqueror ; and being the fird church the deepic of which was cmbcllifhcd with done arches or bows, took thence its denomination 01' le Bow. it was burnt down in the fire of 1666, but foon after- wards rebuilt. The deeple of this church is reckoned the mod beautiful of its kind in Europe. In Cheap ward is Guildhall, or the town* houfc of London. This was originally built in 141 1, but England.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 373 but fu damaged by ihe great fire ulreidy menlioned, at lu be rebuilt in i&6(j. I'he front hji a Outhlc a))- ptarance i and thia chaidder, is alCu due ti' the two gigantic cfBgiei which Hand within the h.ill. The hall i> a hundred fii'iy-thiee fout lun|r, fit'iy toot broad, and firiy-live high, adorned with the royal arm*, and thole of the ciiy and in companici, as well a with feveral purtrtiti of En^li(h loveicigiii and judges Inthli Lijildiiig are many ■pailmeiiti for iranlailiiig th^' bufincft of the ciiy, belidet one t'o'- e.ich of thejii!i- cial courts, namely that of the King's Bench, the Common- Pleis, and the Exchequer. Ill DafTifhaw, or Balinghall w ', is Ulaclcwcll, or fi,ikewcll hall, which adjoins to Guildhall, and is the grcatcft mart.of woollen cloth in the world, It Wis purcliafed uf king Richard II. by the city ; and has ever fince been ulcd as a weekly market for broad and narrow woollen cloih», brought out of the coun- try. It TufTcred ihe general devaflation in 1666, but was rebuilt i.~. 16,2, iiid is now a fpacious edifice, with a (lone front, adorned with columns. Ciipplcgate-ward is remarkable for a college, called Sion-colkge, founded in 1627, by Dr. Thomas White, vicar of St. Ounflan's in the Well, for the improvement of the London clergy ■, with alms-houfcs for twenty poor pt,-'''>nt, ten men .'..id un women. In the year 1631, a charter was procured for incorpo- rating the clergy of London, by which they were conOitutcd fellows of the college ; and out of the incumbents are annually elciEled, on Tuefday three weeks after Eader, a prefidenr, two deacons, and four afTidants, who are to meet quarterly, to hear a Latin fermon, and afterwards be entertained at din- ner in the college- hall, at the expcnce of the foun- dation. In this ward is a hall, which belonged to the com- pany of barber-furgeons, the profefTions of barber and furgeun being formerly exetcifed by the fame perfon. It was built by the celebrated Inigo Jones ; and the anatomical theatre is a very fine piece of architecture. This hall is now called Uarbcr's-Hall ; the furgeons, who difdained to be any longer afl'ociated with their ancient brethren, having obtained a fcparaie charter, *nd built theinfelvcs a new hall in the Old Bailey, In Alderfgatc ward is an edifice, called the London- Difpenfary, built with brick, and ornamented with Aone in an elegant taftc. It was dcfigned by Inigo Jones, and orij^iiially known by the name of Shaftcf- bury-huufc, from being the town-refidence of the earls of that name. This charity is fupported by volun- tary contributions. Farringdon-waid Within, is diflinguiflied by the mod magnificent proteflant church in the world, the cathedral of St. Paul. It is faid to be originally found- ed in 610, by Lthelbcrt, the Saxon king, on, or near a place where, in the time of the Romans, flood a temple dedicated :a Diana. It had feveral times fuf- fcred mi":Ii by fire and liglitnin;:, but in the confla- giaiion uf 1666, was entirely deflroycd. It was af- terwards rebuilr according to a model prepared by fir Chrillopher Wren, who laid the flrlt: (lone of the prefent (Irudlure in 1675 ; and the lall flone on the No, 31 top of the laniliorn wai laid by hit fon, Mr. Chrifio- pher V'rcii, in the ycir 1710. I'his fjpcrb ediiicc is built ol fine Portland (lone, in form of a crols, after the model of St. Peter's churcii at Rome. On the ouifid.* are two ranees of pilallers, confifting of an hundred and twenty each i the lower range of the Corinthian order, and the upper of the comporne. The (paces between lh« arches of the windows, and the architrave of the lower oidir, are filled with a great variety of curious en- richments, as are alfo ihofe above. On the north- fide is a portico, the afcent to which is by twelve Heps of bl.ick marble, and its dome fupported by fix very large columns. Over the dome is a pediment, the face of which is engraved with the royal arms, regalia, and other ornaments. On the fouth it a portico, the afcent to which is by twenty-five (lept, and its dome fupported by fix columns, correfpond- ng with thofe on the north fide. The wed front it graced with a mod magnificent portico, fupported by twelve lofty Corinthian columni : over thefe are eight columns of the compofite order, which fupport a no- ble pediment, crowned with its acroteria, and in thii pediment it the hiftory of St. Paul's converfion, boldly carved in bas relief. The afcent to this portico is by a flight of fteps of black marble, extending the whole length of the portico I and over each corner of the wed front is a beautiful turret. A vad dome, or cupola, rifes in the centre of the building. I'wcnty foot above the roof of the church it a circular range of tt'uy-two columns, with niches, placed exadlly againd others within. Thefe are terminated by their entablature, which fupports a handfome gallery, adorn- ed with a done baludradc. Above the columns lad mentioned is a range of pilafters, with windows be- tween them i and from the entablature of thefe, the diameter of the dome gradually decreafes. On the fummit of the dome is an elegant balcony, from the centre of which runs a beautiful lanthorn, adorned with Corinthian columns. The whole is crowned with a copper ball, fupporting a crofs, both finely gilt. Within, the cupola dands on eight dupendous pillars, curious adorned 1 the roof of the choir is fupported by fix pillars, and that of the church by two ranges, confiding of twenty more. The roof of the church and choir is adorned with arches and fpacious peripheries of enrichments, admi- rably c.-irved in done. Quite round the infide of the cupola, there is a whifpering iron balcony, or gallery^ the top of which is richly painted by fir James Thorn- hill. Notwithdanding the magnificence of this noble pile, it is remarked to have many defedls. Its fituation ia fuch, that it cannot be viewed at a didance. The divifion of the porticos, and the whole druflure into two dories on the outfide, certainly indicate a like di' vifion within, which is acknowledged to be .-\ fault. The dome, it has alfo been obferved, bears too great a proportion to the red of the pile, and ought to have been raifed exaflly in the centre of the building; be- fiUcs that, there ought to have been two deeples at the ead end, to corrcfpond with thofe at the weft. On 5 A enter- 374 THE M O D E H N [ KlfROrE. ]m enfring thii church, we inftintty pfrrcir* »n obviouN dcHcieiiiy, nut only of rltvution but length, to afliil the pcrr|j(d)lvc ) anil >hr cnlumni ire heavy miJ itunily, rither encumbering the piufpedt than enrirlung it. The length of thii rathrdral, from eaft to well, be- tween the walli, ii four hundred and fixly three toot,' ind including the weft portico, live hundred fool. The extent of the weft front ii « hundred and eighty foot I and in the centre, where It ii widelt, includ- ing the north nnd fouth porticos, \t% breadth Ih three bundled and eUvcii foot. The height of thii edifivc, from the ground to the top of the crofs. It ihrie hun dred and f'lrt/ four fipot. The outward dumitei of the cupola Is a hundrni and forty-five foot, and the inward a hundred lout. I'he outward diameter of the Unthorn it eighteen foot ; the height of the turret! ii two hundred and ei^ht foot, and that of the body of the church a hundred and twenty foot. This cathedral occupies an area of fix acres, and the niue coit horjiiral. The jfTairi of ihij chirlfjr are nuna|',rd hy u prcli.lciil, and uliniit tlirce hundred ' Hovetnorv, bclidcn ilic lord mavor am! aldi-'men. The labile, which ii partly Ciotliir, an 1 partly mo* dern, w«i much damaged by the lire nf 1666, but was Toon repaired, and hdi hren lince inrreafcd with fcvcral addltloni. 'I'he principal buildings, which form the four fidei of »n arci, htv* a piatta round them, with Guthic archei, and the walls aic' fupiioiiril t>y abutinenti. The front is more niudcini and haa done pllalKrs, fupported on pedcftali. In Calllc Uaynard ward, ii 1 Lirf/.- firuflure, called Dii^orS Commons. It cunfills of leveral handfome paved courts, in which the judges of the court of admi- ralty, thole of the court of drlrgati'% of the court of arches, and the prerogative court, with the d(>£)ors that plead caufes, and the prni^loriof the place, all live in • collcjjialo way ) and from cominnnin<; together, as in other cullegrs, the name of Uo^loi's Commoni is ' is railed all round with iron baluftrades, each about { derived. Here courts are kept fur the trial of civil five foot and a half high, fixed on a dwarf w:ill ol hewn ftone. In the will end of thin area, is a mar- ble ftatue of qucc Anne, holding a fceptre in one hand, and a globe on he other, furroundcd with four emblematical figures reprcfcnting Great Britain, France, Ireland, and America. Befidcs very large contributions for carrying on this edifice, the parliament granted a duty on fca-coal. and ecclefialiical caufes, under (lie archbilhopnf Can- terbury, and the blftinp of London. The college has an excilknt library, every hilltop, at hu ronfecradon, giving twenty or fifty poundi towards purchafing books for it. Near Doi^or's Commons, on St. Rennet's Hill, Is the College of Heralds, who were incorporated by king Richard III. liefides the chief oflicer, wha is which, at a medium, produced five thoufaiid pounds , the carl-marOui of F^ngl.ind, here are three kl.igs at 8 year ; and the whole expcnce of the building is arms, viz. Garter, Clarcncieux, and Ni.r.-oy, with fix faid to have amounted to 736,751!. as. 3d. heralds, four purfuivants, and eight pruiStorj. Gar- On the call fide of the cathedral is St. Paul's ter attends the iiillalmcnts of knights of that order. School, founded In 1501), by Dr. John Collet, diMn ; carries the (rarlcr to foreign princes, regulates the of this church, who endowed it lor n principal-m.if- ceremonies at coronations, and the funeral of the royal ter, an under-mafter, a chaplain, and a hundred and family, and nobility : Clarencicux dirciHs the funeral fifty-three fcholars. ceremonies of thofe under the degree of peers, foutli In Warwick-lane, in this ward, ftands the Col- lege of Phyficians, ertiHcd in 1682, by fir Chrillo- of Trent ; and Norroy performs the like office for thole north of Trent. This building was originally the phcr Wren, it is built of brick, and has a fpacious | houfe of the cati of Derby. It is a fpacious qua- ftone frontifpiece, Nc.ir the fouth extremity of the Old Baily, on the ead-fidr, is the hall of the Com- pany of Surgeons, with a theatre tor diflefliun. Adjoining to Chrlft-Church, in Newgaie-ftreet, is Chrift's-Hofpital, which, before the difluiution of monaileries by Henry VHI. was a houfe of Grey Friars, The Iwfpital was founded by king Edward VT. for Supporting and educating the fathctlefs chil- dr.inglc, built of brick, and has convenient apart- ments. Here are kfpt records of the coats of arms of all the families and names in England, with an ac- count when they were granted, and on what occafion. In Farringdon-ward Without, is a large building, called Bridewell, from a fpring formerly known hy the name of St. Bridget's, or St. Bride's- Well, Ic was originally a royal palace, and occupied all the dren of poor freemen of this city j of whom one 1 ground from Fleet-ditch on the ead, to Water lane thoiif.ind tf both fcxcs arc generally maintained in the Ion the weft. That part of it, now called Sallfbury- houfe, or out ^t iiurfe, and are llkewife cloathcd and court, was given to the bilhopr of Salifbury fur their educated. In 16^3, a mathematical fchool was found- ed here by Char!cs II, endowed with three hundred and twenty pounds a year ; and a writing-fchool was added in 1694, by fir John Moor, an alderman of the city. After the boys have been feven or eight years on the foundation, fome are fent to the uni- verfity, and others to feaj while the reft, at a pro- per age, are put apprentices to trades, at the charge of the hofpital. At fiift their habit was a ruflct cotton, but was foon aftrr changed for blue, which has ever fince continued to be their colour ; and on this account the foundation is frequently called town-rcfiJcnce ; and the eaft part, whirh was rebuilt by king Henry VIII. is the prefent Bridewell. It was granted to the city by Edward VI, as an hofpital ; and he endowed it fQr the lodging of poor travellers, and for the corre£lion of vagabonds, {trumpets, and Idle perfons, as well as for finding tbem work. In one part of the building, twenty artifi(!ers have houfcs ; and about a hundred and fifty boys, diftinguiftied by white hats and blue doublets, are put apprentices to glovers, flax-drelTers, weavers, lie. and, when they have ferved their time, are enti- tled to the freedom of the city, with ten pounds, to- a . - ' wards JtNOLAND.J GENERAL TRAVELLER. 375 wirJi carrying on chtir rrrpciHivt trtdii, Th* oihrr puil uf Bndswcll iitrtceptacle for difordcrly pcrfoni, who ire krp( at beating hemp, and uihcr h^rd labour, Near Riidewcll, ii Si. lltidc'* church, a Il4ii'ly fitbric, • hundred and eleven fiiot long, fifty fcven broad, itici f(irtv-one high, with a beautiful fpirr, two hundred and thirty- lour fuot in altitude, and liai • ring of twelve bells in in lower. (^ppuliie to FIcct-ditcli, it now built, over ihii patt of iho river, • flatrly bridge, with tliptic vrchei, which is acliiiowlcJgird tu equal in point of tiegaiice, any cunftruAiuii of the kind. Will Siniihlield, in ihii ward, ii an area con- taining three acica of ground, called in old recotdi SinilhfielJ.Pond, or liorlc-l'ool, it having been for- merly a watering-place for horfci, It wai, in anci- ent timvi, the common place of execution | and at ihe fuuth-wcll corner there wai a g.illuwi called the Elmi, from a number of elm treca lli.it giew in the neighbourhood. It was likewilu the fccne of public jults and tournamcnti, and hai been a market-place for cattle above five hundred years. On the fouth-fidc of this area, and contiguous to Chrift'i: hofpital, it St. liartholomcw't hofpiial. I ,was origi.ijlly founded fooii after the ucceflion of Henry i. by .Habere, the king's jclter, as an infir- mary for the priory of St. Bartholomew the Great, which then flood near the fpnt. But upon the dilTo- lution of religious houfes, Henry VIII, refoundcd it, •nd endowed it with five hundred m.irks n year, on condition that the citizens fhould pay the fame fum annually for the relief of a hundred lame and infirm patients. The endowments of this charity have fincc been (o much enlarged, that it now receives the dif- IfclTcd of all denominations. In 1702, a beautiful frontifpicce was ereflcd towards SmithfiLld, adorned with piiaders, entablature, and a pediment of the Ionic order, with a flatue of king Henry VIII. fland- ing in a niche in full proportion, and thofe of two cripples on the top of the pediment over it. In fjlij, a plan was formed for rebuilding the reft of this hofpital, ill confequencc of which a magnificent edifice has been erciSled. Among many otiier privileges granted by Henry I. to th.: prior and canons of the monaftery of St. Bar- tholomew the Great, and to the poor of the infirmary, was that of keeping a fair in Smithficid on the eve, day, and morrow of St. Bartholomew. This fair, called Bartholomew-fair, has been held annually ever fince, and by the indulgence of the ma- giftrates of London, to whom the privilege of keeping it devolved, upon the difTulution of the priory, it ufed to continue a fortnit:ht, A great number of booths was erefled in it by the actors of the theatres, for the exhibition of dramatic performances of various kiads, and it became at length a fccne of To much licentiouf- nefs and riot, that fir John Barnard, when lord-mayor of London, redufd the time of the fair to its original duration of th>.ee days. This laudable example has been followed ever fince { and the magiftrates have likewife prohibited all public exhibitions, which had been formerly accompanied with fo much diforder. In a flrcct in ihii ward, catltJ the Old Bailey, Is • hall named Juflice-hall, or the Icinon'i houfv, where ■ court is held eight times a year, by the king'i cnnimilTion of oyer and terminer, lur the trial of cri- minals lor ofTtncts committed within the city of Lon> don and county of Middlelcx. 'Ihe judges of this court are the luid-mayor, ihofe of the aldeiinen that have ferved th,it offlre, and the recorder, who are attended by the flieritl'i, and by one or more of the national judges, In this flteet it alfo the great criminal prifon, lately built in • much more convenient fitiiation, and on a more enlarged plan than the former prifun, called Newgate ) by which name it it (till dillinguifhed. In this ward is likewife a prifon, called the Fhet- prifon, from a frnall river named the Meet, which formerly run by it : this building is large, and reck- oned the bcft in the city, for good rooms and other convenience!. It has the benefit of a large yard, which is cnclofed with a very high wall. This pri- f'-n it II ancient as the reign of Richard I, and be- longs to the court of chancery, &c. In Chancery lane, in this ward, is an office, con- fifling of a houfe and chapel, called the office and chap'.l of the Rolls, from being the great repofitury of the modern public rolls and records of the king- dom. This building wai originally the houfe of art eminent Jew ; but being forfeited to the crown, king Henry III. in the year 1213, converted it into an hofpital for the reception and accommod.ition of Jewilh and other profelytes. In 1377, Edward III. granted this hofpital and its chapel to William Burftall, maf- tcr of the rolls, to whoft fuccefTors in that office, it has ever liner belonged. Round this office, there it a fmall diitriifl, confifting of about two hundred houfes, called the Liberty of the Rolls, over which tbe magillratcs of London havr no authority, it be- ing iMi'tir the government of the mailer of the rolls. In this ward are fevcral inns of court and chan- cery, particularly the Inner and Middle-Temple, Serjeant's-Inn, ClifTord's-Inn, Barnard's-Inn, Sta- ples-Inn, and Furnival's-Inn, The Temple received its name from being origi- nally founded by the Knight's Templars, who fettled here in 1185. It was at firft called the New Tem- ple, to diftinguifh it from the former houfe of the iCnight's Templars, which ftood in Holborn, near Chancery-lane. The original building was divided into three parts ; the Inner, the Middle, and the Outer Temple. The Innc.' and the Outer Temple were fo called, becaufe one was within, and the other was without the Bar; and the Middle derived its name from being fituated between them. Upon the diflblution of the order of Knights Templars, the New Temple devolved to the Knights Hofpitallers of St. John of Jerufalem, who granted a Icafe of it to the ftudents of the common- law, and converted that part of it called Inner and Middle Temple, into two inns of court, for tha fludy and pra£lice of the common-law. The Outer Temple became a houfe for the earl of EITcx. .1 . i h il 376 H E MOD R N [EUROPK. The builJings of the Temple efcapcd the fire in l666, but were moft of them deftroyed by fubfe- quent fires, and have fince been rebuilt. The two Temples are each divided into feveral courts, and have pleafant gardens on the banks of the Thames. They are appropriated to didinfl focieties, and have feparate halls, where the members dine in common during term-time. The Inner Temple- hall is faid to have been built in the reign of Kdward III. and the Middle I emple hall, which is a magnificent edifice, was rebuilt in 157?, in form of a college-hall. Each has a good library, adorned with paintings, and well furnifh'd with boolcs. An afl'cmbly, called a par- liament, in which the affairs of the fociery of the Inner-Temple are managed, is held there every term. Both Temples have* one church, firft founded in 1 185, by the Knights Templars ; but the prefent edi- fice is fuppofcd r.o have been built in 1420. It is fupported by neat (lender pillars of Sufll-x marble, and is one of the mod beautiful Gothic flruflures in England. In this >.hurch are many monuments, par ticularly of nine Knig^it's Templars, cut in marble, in full proportion, fome of them feven foot and a half long ; fix are crofs- legged, and therefore fuppol'ed to have been engaged in the crufades. The miniftcr of this church, who is ufually called the mafter of the Temple, is appointed by the benchers, or fenior members of both focieties, and prcfented by a patent from the crown. Serjeint's-Inn is a fmall inn in Chancery-lane, where the judges and ferjeants have chambers, but not houfes, a^ they had In another inn of this name in Fleet ftrect, which they abandoned in 1730 ; but in each of them there is a hall and a chapel, Clifford's-Inn is an inn of chancery belonging to the Inner-Temple. It was originally a houfe grant- ed By Edward II. to the family of the Cliffords, from which it derived its name -, but was afterwards let upon leafe to the ftudents of the law, and in the reign of Edward III. fold to the members of this fociety. Bernard's-Inn is likewife an inn of chancery be- longing to Gr.iys-Inn. It (lands in Holborn, and was the houfe of John Mackworth, dean of Lincoln, who gave it to the profc(rors of the law. Staple'.s-Iiin belongs alfo to Gray's Inn, and is fitu- jted in Holborn. It was once once a hall for the mer- chants of the (laplc for wool, whence it derives its name ; but it was purchafed by the benclic.^ of Gray's-lnn, and hjs been an inn of chancery fince the year 1415. Furnivai'i-Inn is an inn of chancery, belonging to Lincoln's Inn, and was once the hnufe of the family of the Funiivals, by whom it was let out to the pro- fclTors of the U.v. It is a large old building, with a hall and a pleafant garden. Ill Colman-flrcct ward, on the fouth-fide of a large fquarc, called MciorficlJs, {lands Bethlehem-hofpilal, founded in 1675, by the lord-mayor and citizens of London, for the reception and cure of poor lunatics. It is a noble edifice, built with brick and (lone, and adorned with pilafters, entablatures, and fculpture, particularly with the figures of two lunatics over the ^raiid gate, which arc well executed. This building is a five hundred and forty foot long, and forty broad, ex- clufive of two winjs, of a later creilioii, intended for the reception of fucli lunatics as are deemed incur- able. This holpital contains a great nurhber of con- venient c'.'lls or apartments, where the patients are maintained and receive all medical alTtllance without any other expence to iheir friends than that of bedding. The (Iruiture is divided into two (lories, through each of which runs a long gallery, from one end of ths houfe to the other, On the fouth fide arc the cells, and on the north the windows, that give light to the galleries, which are divided in the middle by hand- fome iron-gates, to keep the men and women feparate. This hofpital being united to that of Bridewell, both are managed by the fame prefidcrnt, governors, treafurer, clerk, phyAcian, furgeon, and apothecary ; but eacha fteward and inferior officers peculiar to itfelf. Bethlehem- hofpita? being found incapable of re- ceiving and providing for the relief of all the unhappy objefls, for whom application was made, a plain edi- fice was built for the fame purpofe on the north fide of Moorfields, called S'. Luke's hofpital, which is maintained by private fubfcriptiun. Befides the two markets already mentioned at Smith- field for cattle and hay, and at Leadenhall f)r butcher's meat, wool, hides, and Coichetler baize, there are in this city the following other markets, which are all very confiderable j viz. Honey-lane, Newgate, and Fleet- marlfct, chiefly for flifh, though with feparate divifions for fifh, butter, eggs, poultry, herbs, arid fruit ; BiUingfgate market for fi(h only ; and the Three- Cranes market, for apples, and other fruit. The principal corn-market is held in a neat Exchange, fituaicd in Mark lane, and that for flour at Queenhithe. In Thames-ftrict, near B llingfgate, there is an ex- change for dealers in coals and mailers of vcfFcIs in that trade to tranfu//i tyrf/'/fn.) t^/cM . \m \m ?l • m in ■i :J' '^- I ,1 ' ■ .s S'' England.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 377 The lord mayor is defied annually at Guildhall, en Michaelmas day, when the aldermen below the chair, who have ferved the office of fherifF, are put in nominaiion, out of whom the liverymen, confifling of about eight ihuufand, return two to the court of aldermen, who ufually prefer the fenior. Upon the Cth of November, the lord mayor eled is (worn into his office at Guildhall, and the next day he is in- augurated at Wedminllcr For this purpol'e, he is met in the morning by the aldermen and fhcrifFs, at Guildhall, whence they ride in great ftate in their coaches, attended by the city officers, and the com- pany of which the lord mayor is a member, in furred gowns, on foot, to the Three Cranes. Here all the perfuns in the proceffion enter their barges, which are richly decorated, and furniflied with ftreamers and mufic ; and rowing towards Weftmin- Aer, amidd the falutation of great guns from the fliiire, they land at Palace- yard ; whence the company march in order to Wcllminfter hall, followed by the lord mayor and aldermen. Having entered the hull, they wnik round it, with the city fword and mace c:irricd before them, to falute the fevcral courts, and then walk up to the court of Exchequer, where the new lord mayor is fworn before the barons. His lorJlhip then walk^ lound the hall again ; after which he returns v/ith the citizens by water to Black-friars, whence they ride in their coaches, preceded by • part of the city militia, and attended by the city com- panies, with their flags and mufic, to Guildhall, where a magnificent cnceitainmcnt is given, at which many of the nobiiity of both fexes are generally pre- fent. The lord mayor's jurifdi£lion extends, in Tome cafes, a great wiy beyond the limits of the city, not only over a part of the fuburbs, but upon the river Thitmes, eaft as far as its conflux with the Medway, and weflward to the river Colne. He keeps courts annually, for the confervation of the river Thames, in the counties through which it flows, within the boundaries al- ready mentioned. He always appears abroad in a ftate coach, robed in fcarlet or purple, richly furred, with a hood of black velvet ; a great gold chain, or collar of SS, to which a jewel is appended ; and his officers walk b.-fore him, or on each fide of his coach. He ufually goes on Sunday morning, attended by feme of the aldermen, to St. Paul's cathedral, where, on the fiift Sunday in term time, feveral of the twelve judges, if not all of them, are ufually>prefent, whom, after divine fetvice, he invites to dinner at the Man- fton houfe. The city is divided into twenty-fix wards, over each of which there is an aldeiman, who enjoys the office for life. Upon the death of an alderman, a court, called a wardmote, is held in the ward over which he prefided, by the lord mayor, for ele£)ing a fuccefl'or, who s afterwards fworn mto his uffifice at court of aldermen. All the aldermen are, by charter, juftices of peace in the city. The two flierlfFs of this city are alfo fherifs of the county of Middlefex i and are cbofen at Guildhall, No. 31. on Midfummer day, by the liverymen, but not fworn till Michaelmas eve, when they enter on their office ; two days after which, they are prefented in the Ex- chequer court in Weflminfler-hall, by the lord mayor and aldermen. Each flierilF has a deputy, with fix clerks, and thirty fix ferjeants, and every ferjeant a yeoman, who belongs to either of the prifons, called Wood-ftreet compter, or the Poultry compter. If the perfon chofen fherifF declines ferving the office, he ij fii.'ed four hundred pounds to the city, and thirteen pounds, fix (hillings, and eight pence, to the mini- fters of the city prifons, unlefs he fwear that he is not worth fifteen thoufand pounds. If he fcrves, he ii obliged to give bond to the corporation. After the fherifFs are eleAed, the livery choofe the chamberlain of the city, and ether office.-s, called the bridge-mafters, auditors of the city and bridge-houfe accounts, and the ale-conners. The recorder is ap- pointed by the lord mayor and court of aldermen, and holds his place for life. The common council, conftables, and other offi- cers, are chofen by the houfekeepers in the refpe£live wards, on St. Thomas's day, at a wardmote then held by the different aldermen. The court of common council, which is the name given to the aflembly of the lord mayor, aldermen, and common councilmen, make bye-laws for the city, and, upon occafion, grant the freedom to ftrangers. It is called and adjourned by the lord mayor] and out of it are formed feveral committees, for letting the city lands, and other fervices. The lord mayor and court of aldermen are a court of record, in which all leafes and inflruments are executed, that pafs under the city feal. They fix the price of bread, determine all differences relating to lights, water- courfes, and party walls, fufpend or punifli offending officers, and annually eledt the rulers of the watermens company. They alfo appoint moft of the city officers ; but the rent-gatherer is nomi- nated by the chamberlain, and the high bailiff of Southwark by the common council. The court of huftings is reckoned the moft ancient tribunal in the city, and was inftituted for the pre- fervation of its laws, franchifes, and cuftoms. It is held at Guildhall, before the lord mayor, the fheriffs, and the recorder, the latter of whom, in civil caufes, fits there as judge. Here deeds are inrolled, recoveries pafTed, wills proved, and outlawries fued out ; writs of right, wafte, partition, dower, and replevins, are alfo determined. Here alfo the reprefentatives of this city in parliament are elected by the liverymen, who, out of eight candidates that are ufually fet up, make choice of four. The lord mayor's court is likewife a court of re- cord and of equity, held in the chamber of Guildhall every Tuefday, where the recorder alfo fits as judge, and the lord mayor and aldermen may, if they pleafc, fit with him. Adlions of debts, trefpafs, and others, arifing within the city and liberties, of -iny value, may here be tried, and an aiSiion may be removed thither from the fheriffs courts, before the jury is fworn. 5 B This 378 H MODERN ( i 'f ;' ' 1^ '^ Th\» court has an office peculiar to itfelf, connfting of tour attornics, and fix lerjeants at mace. 1 lie juries for trying caufrs in tiiis and in the (hcrilF court, are returned by the fcvcral wards, at their wardmote inquefta at Chriftmas, when each ward appoints the perfons to ferve on juries, for every month in the en- fuing year. The iherifFs have two courts, which are alfo courts of record for the trials of actions of debt, ticfpaf:., account, covenant, attaclimeiits, and fcqueftrations. They are held on Wednefday and Friday, for actions entered in Woodftrect compter ; and on 1 hurfday and Saturday, for fuch as are entered in the Poultry compter. The chamberlain has a court or office, which is held at the chamber in Guildhall. He receives and difburfes all the city cafli, keeps the fecurities talcen for it by the court of aldermen, and annually ac- counts to the auditors appointed for that purpofe. He generally attends every moriiing at Guildhall to inrol or turn over apprentices, or make them free, and hears and determines diftl-rences between them and their maflcrs. The orphans court, is a court held by th? lord mayor and aldermen, once a year or oftcner, for na- naging the atJ'airs of the city orphans, or frcem^ns children, under twcnty-or.e years of age. The co n- mon Icrjeant takes inventories of fuch frcem'.n's eflates, and the common crier fummons their widows, or other executors and adminiftrator*, to appear be- fore the court of aldermen, to bring in an inventory, and give fecurity for the teftator's eilate. When the orphans are of age, or are married with confent of the court of aldermen, they may receive their portions upon demand. The court of requefts, is a court erefled by aft of parliament, in the year i6o6, for recovering debts under forty (hillings, at an eafy expence ; the credi- tor's oath of the debt being fufficient to afcertain it, without farther evidence. Some members of the common council, being appointed monthly in their turn, by the lord mayor and court of aldermen, fit at the huftings in Guildhall every Wednefday and Sa- turday, as commifliuners of this court. The military government of the city is lodged in a lieutenancy, confiding of the lord mayor, aldermen, and other principal citizens, who receive their autho- rity by a commiflion from the king. Thofe have under their command the city trained bands, confining of fix regiments of foot, diflinguiflicd by the names of the white, orange, yellow, blue, green, and red. EaRopE,] Weftminfter and the borough of Souihwark, amounts to about ten thoufand men. The companies of the city of London, or the feve- ral incorporations of iia citizens, in their rcfpcitive trades, are in number ninety-one, bciidcs fevcral oiher companies, or incorporated focietics of mcrchaiilj. Of thefe ninety-one companies, fil'iy-two have each a hall for tranfaiUing the buliiiei'» of the corporation } and this confifts of a niaik'r, or prime warden, a court of affiliants, and livery, Twelve of thefe companies are fuperior to the reft, both in antiquity and wealth ; and of one of thofe twelve the lord mayors have geuoi.illy made them- felves fiee at their cleilion. Thefe companies arc the mercers, grocers, drapers, fi(h-moiigers, golJfmiths, (kinners, merchant-taylors, haberdafluTS, falters, iroi - mongers, vintners, and clutliworkcrs. The principal incorporated focirtics of the mer- chant! of this city are, the Hamburgh Company, the Hudfon's Bay Company, the Ruffia Company, the 'I'urkey Company, the Eaft India Company, the Royal African Company, the South bca Company, and fomc lnfura,-ce Companies. The moft of thefe companies have (lately liouffs lor tranfatTiiig their bufinefs, particularly the £a(l Inula and South Sea companies. The trade of this vaft and opulent city is almoft coeval with its foundation Tacitus, in the fixty- tbird year of the Chrifti m a.T.i, rojircfcntcd it as cele- brated for its great comnierte, and the number of its merchants. It appears from an elfimate, that one fourth part of the foreign trade of the nation is car- ried on at London j and it ban been faid that the port of London pays two thirds of the cuftoms of all Eng- land. At what precif% time London was founded, does not appear from hiftory. M;)ny have fuppofed, that before the arrival of Czfar in Britain, it was the great emporium, or mart of the Bricifh trade, with the Phcenicians, Greeks, and Gauls. There was, however, no building, either of brick or ftonr, in this place, till it was inhabited by the Romans ; the dwellings of the natives, before that time, being formed only of twigs matted together. London is generally thought to have been founded in the reign of the empeior Claudius ; and fo rapidly did it irw creafe, that in a few years it became too large to be defended by an army of ten thoufand Romans j on whicli account it was abandoned by Suetonius Pau- linus, the Roman general, to the fury of the Uritifli quecii Boadicca, who burnt it to the ground, and put: each containing eight compnies, of a hundred and j all the inhabitants to the fword. But it foon recovered fifty men, amounting in •')■ lO i:ven thoufand two hundred. Bcfidcs thcfc fix regiments, there is a corps its former flate, and, in imitation of Rome, was made a prefefture by the Romans, who gave it the name of called the ariillcry company, from its being taught 1 Augufta. the military exercife in the Artillery-ground. This i By Ptolemy, and fome other ancient writers of company is independent of the reft, and confifts of { good authority, Londinium is placed in Cantium, or fevcn or eight hundred volunteers. All tht's, vith two j Kent, on the fouth fide of the Thames ; and it is thi: regiments of foot, of eight hundred men each, com- ' opinion of fome moderns, that the Romans probably manded by the lieutenant of the tower of London, | had a ftation there, to fecure their cnnquelts on that make the whole militia of this city, which, exclufive of i T.dc of the river, before lliey reduced the I'linubantei. 6 'riie Europe.] ■ark, amounts , or thf feve- icir rcCpcitive I'tvcral oiher merchant*. have e;ich a corporation ; rdcn, a courc r to the reft, one of thoCc riiailc them- lanies are the gnidfiiiiths, (alters, iroi - of the mer- h Company, onipany, the impuny, the a Company, moft of thefc fatting their id South Sea Mty is almoft n the fixty- jd it as cele- umber of its te, that one nation is car. tiiat the port I of all Eng- jundcd, does ppofed, that , it was the trade, with There wa9» ftone, in this omans ; the time, being London is in the reign ly did it in- 3 large to be lomans ; on ctonius P;iu- f the Britifh ind, and put on recovered c, was made the name of t writers of Jantium, or and it is the 1115 probably lelts on that I'rinobajitei. 'ihe Enoland.1 GENERAL TRAVELLER. 379 The place fixed upon for this ftation is St. George's fields, a large plat of ground liiuated between Lam- belli and Southwark, where many Uu;iiaii coins, bricks, and chcci]ucr'd pavements have been found. Three Roman ways from Kent, Surry, and Middle- fex, interfered each other in thi^ place: this there- fore is fuppofcd to be the ori^iinal Lnndiniim, which it it thought, became neglciicd after the Romans re- duced the 'I'rinobaiitcs, and fettled on the otiicr fide of the Thames. By whom London was firfl cncompalTed wiih walls is uncertain : fonie think by Conltantinc the Great } others by his mother (lelcna ; but there is great rea- fon to believe that it was by the emperor Valentinian I. I'.bout the year of the Chrillian epoch 36!). It is ima- gined that thofc walls quite furrounded the city, as will upon the fido of the Thames as the land fide ; but that the part of the wall next the river has been dcftroyed by the tide fo many ages ago, that there are now no traces even of its ruins. The extent of the city, a limited by mural fortifi- cation, ', eafured in circumference three miles, one hundred and fixty-five feet. 'l"he wal.'s were com- pofcd of alternate layers of Roman brick, and rag- flones. From the remains of the Roman work, it is coiijcclured that the original height of the walls was twenty-two feet. They were fortiiled with feveral lofty towers : the number of which, on the land fide, was fifteen. The remains of two of thefe towers, yet to be feen, one in a ftrcct called Shoemaker-row, near Aldgate ; and the other on the weft fide of Houndfditch, are thought to be the the moft confider- able pieces of Roman architciSture now in Britain. One of thetr: ftill confifts of three ftoriet, and is twen- ty-fix feet high, though greatly decayed, and rent in feme parts from top to bottom : the other is twenty- one feet high, perfedly found, and very beautiful, the brick' being as good as if newly laid, though the fiones are in fonie places crumbled away. In a ftreet called *t\e Vineyard, not hr from thofe towers, is the bafis of another Roman tower, about eight feet high, fupporting a new building of three ftories. From the remains of thefe towers it is imagined, that their height was originally forty feet. In the reign of Henry II. the walls of the city were confiderably ruined ; in that of Richard I. a great part was dcmoliflied, to make room for the ditch round the tower of London ; and being inuc'i decay. cd in the time of Henry III. he obliged the citizens to repair them at a great expencc. In the reign of king John, the city of London was fortified by encompafling the wall with a moat or ditch two hundred feet wide. This ditch was cleaned in the reign of Richard II. and it appears that the crown ufually granted the magidrates of London a duty on certain gooils, to defray the expence of this work, and repairing the walls. In the reign of Edward V. great part of the walls were rebuilt at the charge of the city companies ; in the reign of Henry Vlll. t.. ditch was ileancd ; and in the reign of queen Elizabeth it was twice cleaned, and part of, it widened. For m:iny years, however, the ditch has been filled up, and covered with build- ings ; and fo much both of the walls and ditch has been appropriated by the city to public ufes, that there are few places in which either of thcin can be feen to advantage. Some of the walls yet remain between the houfei on the calt fide of poor Jewry, lane, the Minorics, and along Houndfditch, from the place where Aldgate lately Hood, to the right of Bifhopfgate. From the latter the walls may be traced towards the fpot which Was occupied by Little Moorgatc ; thence by Alder- manbury, to the right of Cripplcgate ; and proceed- ing afterwards by the back of St. Giles's church, and of the houfes in Crowder's-well alley, they are vifi- ble almoft to the place where .Alderfgate flood : from this fpot they run along the back of the houfes in Bull and Mouth-ftreetj whence there is hardly any part of them vifible to Newgate ; but from this they are in fome places of a confiderable height, along the back of the houfes in the Old Bailey, almoft to the right of Ludgate. The original gates of this city are fuppoled to have been four, viz. Newgate, Cripplcgate, Aldgate, and Dowgatej but the latter has been dcn-oliflicd fo long ago, that even the fight of it is not exa£lly known. Thofe gates were erciled over the three great Roman military ways. The way called Watliiig-llrect, which v/as interfeiled by the Thames, entered London '.hrough Dowgate, crofting the city, pafted through Dowgate : the military-way called Ermine-ftreet, is fuppaf,:d to have pointed towards Cripplcgate ; and the Vicinal-way to have run through Aldgate. In tne reign of Henry II, the walls had feven gates, which were Aldgate, Bifliopfgate, Cripplcgate, AU derfgate, Newgate, Ludgate, and a poftern ne?c the Tower. In refpeiSl to the places called Bottolph's- gate, Billingfgate, and the watergates near the Cuftom- houfe ; it does not appear that they ever were re?' gates, but wharfs only. All thefe gates flood till lately, when an a£t of parliament having pafled for widening and improving the ftreets of this city, they were confidered as in. cumbrances, and all taken down in the years 1760 and 1761, excepting Newgate, which was not taken down till lately. One of the moft remarkable pieces of antiquity in London is a great ftonc, now ftanding in a cafe on the north fide of Cannon-ftreet, clofe under the fouth wall of St. Swithin's church, in Walbrook-ward : It is called London-ftonc, and was formerly pitched edgeways on the other fide of the ftreet, oppofite to where it now ftands, fixed deeply in the ground, and ftrongly faftjned with iron bars j but for the con- venicncy of wheel-carriages it was removed to its prefent fituatiun. This ftone is mentioned fo early as the time of Ethclftan, king of the Weft Saxons, and has been carefully preferved from age to age. Of the original caufe of its creilion no memorial remains ; but it is conje'flurcd, that as London was a Roman city, this ftone might be the centre, and might ferve as an objedl from which the diftance was computed to the other confiderable ci:!;s or ftations in the province, WEST- 38o THE MODERN [Europe. WESTMINSTER. ■ ^l ^t K i The city of VVeftminfter derives it» name from a tnlnfler, or abbey, called Wi.dminfler, on account ol its fituation with rcfpeft to St. Paul's cathedral, which was form.rly called Eaft minfter. In ancient times this diftri^l ftood upwards of a mile from the city of London, and contained only two parithes, which were thofe of St. Margaret and St. John, with .'wo chapels of eafe { but at prcfent it has feven othet parochial churches, viz. St. Clement's Danes, St. Paul's Covent-gii.-Hen, St, Mary's-lc- Strand, St. Mar- tin's in the Fields, St. Anne's, St. James's, and St. George's Hanover-fquare, Wcftminfter -vas anciently called Thorny-ifland, from \<' '.'ving been covered with thorn-buOies, and encnmpafled by a branch of the Thames, which is faid to have run through the ground now called St. James's park, from weft to ead, and to have rejoin- ed the river at Whitehall. Till the general diflblution of religious houfes, Weftrainfter was fubje£l to the arbitrary rule of its abbot and monks ; but in 1541, upon the furrender of William Benfon, the lall abbot, Henry VIII. not only turned it into an honour, but created it the kc of a bifliop, and appointed for a diocefe the whole county of Middlefex, except Fulham, which be- longed the bifhop of London. This bifiioprick, however foon after its inftitutiotii, was diflblved by Edward VI. The city of Wcftminfter is governed by a high fteward, an officer of great dignity, who is ufually one of the firft peers in the realm ; and is chofen for life, by the dean and chapter of the collegiate church of St. Peter. There is alfo a deputy fteward, and a high bailiff, who ailfo hold their offices for lite ; be- ing nominated by the dean and chapter, and confirm- ed by the high fteward. The dean and chapter are invefted with an ecclefi-. aftical and civil jurifdi£lion within the liberties of Wcftminfter, St. Martin's-le-grand, near Cheapfide, in the city of London, and fome towns in Eflcx, which are exempted from the jurifdi£iion of the biftiop of London, and the archbiftiop of Canterbury. St. Margaret's church was founded by Edward the Confeflbr, fince which time it has been frequently re- built. In the eaft end of this church is a window curioufly painted, with the hiftory of the crucifixion, and with the figures of feveral apoftles and faints fine- ly executed. It formerly belonged to a private cha- pel at Copt hall, near Epping, in ilftex, and was purchafed by the officers of this paril.\ a few years ago, for four hundred guineas. In thi!> church the houfe of commons attends divine fervicv on ftatc holidays. The church of St. John the Evangelift was ereded in 1728, and having funk confiderably while it was building, occafioned an alteration of the plan. On the north and fouth fides are magnificent porticoes, fupported by vaft ftone pillars, as is alfo the roof of the churchi at each of the four corners is a beautiful ftoi.e tower and pinnacle, which were added with the •■■'».w tf miking the whole ftruAure link equally. The parts ci ifain building are held together by iron bars, which run acrofs evrn the ailes. The moft remarkable ftrui£ture in Weftmirfter is the abbey-church of St. Perer, which w.is ercdied in the time of king Henry III. upon the fpot where a church and convent had anciently ftood. It fufTcred much by fire in 1274, but was repaired by Edward I. Edward II. and the abbots. In 1700, this chi rch being much decayed, the parliament granted money for repairing it, and has frequently repeated the bounty fince that time. The form of the abbey is th?.i. c' a long crofs : its greateft length is four hundred ai. eighty-nine feet, and the breadth of the weft front fixty fix feet; the len;;th of the crofs aile is a hun- dred and eighty-nine feet, and the height of the roof ninety-two feet. At the weft end are two towers : the nave and crofs aile are fupported by fifty {lender pillars of Suflcx marble, exclufive of pilafters, In the upper and lower ranges there are ninety-four win- dows, all which, with the arches, roofs, and doors, are in the Gothic tafte. The iiifide of thi:> church is much better executed than the outfide ; and the perfpedlive is good, particularly that of the yraiid aile. The choir, from which there is an afcent by fcvcral fteps to • fine altar-piece, is paved with black and white marble; having twenty-eight ft.ills on the north, the fame number un the fouth, and eight at the weft end. In thi* church, which is the depofitory of our >i- luftrious dead, there are twelve fepulchral chapels, namely, ihofe of Edward the Confeflbr, Henry VII. St. Beneeifl, St. Edmund, St. Nicholas, St. Paul, St. John Baptift, St, Erafmus, St. John the Evange- lift, St Michael, St. Andrew, an i St. Blaife, Thcfe feveral chapels contain many ancient and curious monuments of kings, queens, and other great per- fonages ; befides which there is a great number in the different ailes, in memory of poets, philufopheis, heroes, and patriots. In b fine vault under flcnry the feventh's chapel, Is the burying-place of the pre« fent royal family, erefled by his late majefty king George II, Adjoining the abbey are the cluyfters, built in a quadrangular form, with piazzas towards the court, where feveral of the prebendaries have their houfes. Near the abbey church is the king's fchool, ufually called Wcftminfter- fchool. It was originally founded in 1070, and a fecond time by queen Elizabeth in 1560, whence it is fometimes called the queen's col- lege ; and is at prefent one cf the greateft Ichools in the kingdom. On the north-eaft fid': of the abbey is an old Gothic building called Weftminfter-hall, full liiiill by Wil- liam Rufus, as an addition to a royiil palace ; and afterwards rebuilt by Richard II, in the year 1397. It is reckoned one of the laigeft ru( uis in Europe, being two hundred feet lung, feventy feet broad, and ninety feet high., fupported only by buttrefles. The roof is of timber, and was a few yt»n ago flated, the old coveri;ig of lead being reckotitd l«ii h«avy. It i« pavril Enolahd.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 381 pived with fione. In thii fpacioua room the kings of England have generally held their coronation, and other folemn feafti ; and it it ufed for the trial of peert. Since the reign of Henry III. the three great courri of Chancery, King's Bench, and Common Pleas bive been held in feparate apartments of this hall ; an'', the court of Exchequer above fairs. Adjoining to the foutb-caft angle of Weflminfler* ball is a building formeriv called St. Stephen's Chapel, from its having been dedicated to that faint, it was founded by king Stephen, and 1347, rebuilt by king Edward III. who converted it to a collegiate church j but fines it was furrendered to Edward VI. it has been ufed for the alTembly of the reprefentatives of the commons of England; and is now generally called the Houfe of Commons. The benches, which afcend behi.id one another, as in a theatre, are covered with green cloth ; the floor is matted, and round the room are wainfcot galleries fupported by centilevers adorned with carved wc;I:, in which ftran^ers are often i-'-i- mitted to fit and hear the debates. On the .buth fide of the hall is the Houfe of Lords, fo called from being the place where the peers of Great Britain aflemble in parliament. It is an ublung room not quite fo large as the Houfe of Commons, and is hung with fine old tapedry, reprefenting the defeat of the Spanifh Armada in 1588, the gift of the dates of HollaiiJ to queen Elizabeth. Here is a throne fur the king, with feats on the right and left for fuch peers of the realm as are of the blood royal. Before the throne are three broad feats ; on the firft of which, next the throne, fits the Lord Chancellor, or keeper of the gre^t feal, who is fpeaker of the Houfe of Peers ; and on the other two fit the jud," i, the mafler of the rolls, or the mafters in chancery, who attend occafionally to give their opinions on points of law. The two archbifhops fit at fome diftance from the throne on the right hand, and the other bifltops in a row, under them. AH the benches are covered with ted cloth Huffed with wool. Here likewife, by a late order of the houfe, a gallery for ftrangers has been eredled. Adjoining to the Houfe of Lords is the Princes Chamber, where the king is robed when he comes to the parliament. On the other fide is the Painted Chamber, which is faid to have been Edward the Con- felTor's bed-chamber ; and the room in which the parliaments were anciently opened. Here confer- rentes are often held between the two boufes, or their committees. Contiguous to thofe is an apartment called the Ccurt of Requefts, wheie fiich as have bu- finefs in either houfe may attend. Near thefe buildings is a bridge over the Thames, called Weftminfter-bridge, accounted one of the firft in the world. It confifts of thirteen large, and two fmaller arches, all femicircular, and which faring from about two foot above low-water mark. The middle arch is fevcnty fix feet wide, and the reil de- creafe equally iii\ each fide by four feet. Each pier terminates with a /aliani right angle againft the ftream, bylll Upwards and downwards : the middle piers are •leli feveiitccii tt»t wide at the fpringing of the arches. Ho. it and contain three thoufand cubic feet, or mar two hundred tons of folid flone ; the others dccreafing by one foot on each fide. The length of the bridge ii one thoufand two hundred and twenty-three feet, and the breadth fortyofour feet ; a commodious foot-wajr on each fide being raifed above the road allowed for carriages, and paved with broad moor-ftones. For the convenience of paiTcngers, it is furnlfhed on either hand with f«mi-o£langular recelTes, which are con- neiSled toj^etber by a wall and bahidrade. The firft (lone of this bridge was laid in January 1739, and the building was completed towards the end of 1750. On the bank of the Thames, at the eafl: confines of St, Margaret's parifh, was a palace called White- hall, originally built by Hubert de Burgh, carl of Kent, before the middle of the thirteenth century. It afterwards devolved to the archbifhop of York, whence it received the name of York Place, and continued to be the city refidence of the archbifhops, till it was purchafed by Henry VIll. of cardinal VVolfcy, in 1530. At this period it became the refidence of the court; but, in 1697, was deftroyed by accidental fire, all except the Banqueting-houfc, which had been acded to the palace of Whitehall by James I ac> cording to a defign of Inigo Jones. This is an ele- gant and magnificent ftrudlure of hewn ftone, adorned with an upper and lower range of pillars, of the Ionic and Compofite orders ; the capitals are enriched with fruit and foliages, and between the columns of the windows. The roof is covered with lead, and fur rounded with a baluftrade. The buildiiig ch' ''y con- fifls of one roon. of an oblong form, forty mgh, and a proportionable length and breadth. The cieling is painted by the celebrated Sir P|;(er Paul Rubens. It is now ufed only as a chapel-royal, and the other pare of the houfe is occupied with flate-offices. Oppofite to the Banqueting-houfeftands the HoVfe- guards, fo called from being the Ration where that part of his majefty's troops ufually do duty. It is a ftrong building, of hewn flone, confiding of a centre and two wings. In the former is an arched pafTage into St, James's Park ; and over it, in the middle, rifes a cupola. In a part of the building is the War* office. Adjoining to the Horfe-guards is the Treafury, a large building, which fronts the Parade in St. James's Park, Here are kept the board of Treafury, and the office of Trade and Plantations. Eaftward of the Horfe-guards it the Admiralty Office, a magnificent ftru£lure, built with brick and ftone. The front towards Whitehall has two deep wings, and a lofty portico, fupported by four large Hone pillars, A piazza, confifling of beautiful co> lumns, runs almoft from one end to the other. The wall before the court has been lately built in an ele- gant manner, and esch fide of the gate is ornamented with naval emblems, Befides a hall, and other pub- lic apartments, here are fpacious houfes for fevea commiffioners of the admiralty. At a little diflance from the Admiralty, where tbre« capital ftrect* terminate, is a large opening, called 5 C Charing- 3«t THE M O D E R N » [ Evnopti I ,■ Chtrin^croTt, from «ne of th« tr»J/it which king Ed- ward I. caufed to be ere^ttd in memory of his quctn, Eleanor, and Charing, the name of a village in which it was built. The crofs remained till the ci«il wars in the reign of Charles I. when it was deftroyed by the fanatics, as a monument of popire in England.* In the fiont is a plain portico of the Tufcan order, with maffy columns. Before the church is a fquare area, containing about three acres of ground, called Covent-garden market, and is the beft in England for herbs, fruit, and flower^. On the north, and part of the eaft fide, is a magnificent piazza, deligned by Inigo Jones. Next to the parifh of St, Paul, Covent-garden, is that of St, Mary Ic Strand. This is ulfo one of the 2 fifty EuRoi»e; England.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 383 fifty new churchei built in the reign of queen Anne, and ii a handfome piece of architedlure, though not very extenfive. At the entrance, on the weft fide, i> an afcent by a flight of fteps, in a circular form, which leads 10 a fimilarly fhaped portico of Ionic column*, covered with a dome, that is crowned with a vafe. The columns are continued along the body of the church, with pilaflers of the fame order at the corners} and in the intercolumniations are niches handfomely ornamented. Over the dome is a pediment fupported by Corinthian columns, which are alfo continued round the body of the ftruflure, over thofe of the Ionic order. A handfome baluftrade is carried round the top of the church, and adorned with vafes, A little eaftward from the preceding church is that of St. Clement's Danes, fltuated likewife in the Strand. A church is faid to have ftood in this place fince about the year 700. but the prefent ftru£lure was be- gun in 1680, defigned by Sir Chriftopher Wren. It is built of (lone, with two rows of windows, the lower plain, but the upper ornamented ; and the ter- mination is by an Attic, the pilaflers nf which are co- vered with vafes. On the fouth Pa .. ■< portico, covered with a dome, fupported by J nio lumns : and oppofite to this is another. '. ' '; ftee < beau- tiful, and of a great hight. The church of St, Georf '-lOi " ary, is alfo one of the fifty new churches ereiS) ' ' / r£l of par- liament. It is diftinguiflied from ^li the reft by {landing fouth and north, : ' ' tH' ftatue of king George I. at the top of its p^ n. al ftecple. Within the precin£ls of Weftminfter arc feveral ftately houfes belonging to the nobility. The moft remarkable of thofe at prefent are Rurlington-houfe, Dcvonfhire-houfc, Egremont-houfe, Bedford-houfe, and Carlton-houfe, the refidence of the late princefs dowager of Wales ; to which may be ai^ded the Bri- tifli Mufeum. This noble ftruflure was formerly called Montagu-houfe, from having been the refi- dence of the dukes of that title ; but in confequence of an aA of parliament, wat purchi^fed upwards of twenty years ago, as a repofttory for tho mufeums of Sir Hans Sloane and Dr. Mead, and of tht Harleian and Cotton colle£iion of manufcripts. It is a large and magnificent building, and has behind it a garden confifting nearly of nine acres. Befldes a great number of fpacious ftreets, which are daily increaftng, this part of the town is orna- mented with feveral magnificent fquares, viz, Grof- venor-fquare, Portland- fquare, Hanover- fquare, St, James's - fquare, Soho- fquare, Bloomfbury- fquare, (ihieen's-fquare, Lincoln's-Inn-fields, not to mention others that are at prefent building, and Red-Lion- fquare, which is fituated farther eaftward. In Lamb's Conduit-fields, on the north fide of the town, is a large and commodious ftruflure called the Foundling-hofpital, for the reception of expofed and deferted children. This laudable charity was projefl- ed by feveral eminent merchants, in the reign of q-jeen Anne, but was not carried ir.to execution till many years afterwards, when a charter for its eftab- lifhment was obtained, through the indefatigable afli- duity of Mr. Thomas Coram, the commander of a merchant vefTel, who fpent the remainder of his life in promoting this defign. From the time of its in- ftitution, the parliament bu occafionally granted con- flderable fums for its Aipport i and in fome years, upwards of fix thoufand infants have been received. Not far hence it an hofpitrl for the Small- pox ; and in different parts of the town there are others, either for th- Ick of all kinds, or thofe in particular cirrumft; 1, Of the latter are feveral Lying-in-hofpit,i' , .d the Lock-hofpital for femalo patients in the ven u difeafe. Of the former are St. George's, and the ^l< Jdlefcx-hofpitals, befidet feveral' infirmaries. Gray'a-Inn ii one of the four principle inns of court, which, though fituated within the limits of the parifh of Sc, Andrew, Holborn, is yet without the liberties of the city of London. It took its name from an ancient family of the name of Gray, which formerly reiided here, and in the reign of Edward III, demifed it to fome ftudents in the law ; bui it is faid to have been afterwards conveyed to the monks of Shene, near Richmond, in Surrey, who leafed it to fociety of the inn. It was held by this tenure till the diflblution of the monafteries, when Henry VIII. granted it to the fociety in fee-farm. This inn confifts chiefly of two quadrangles, and has an old hall well built of timber, with a chapel in the Gothic ftile. Here is alfo a good library, and the inn is accommodated with a fpacious garden. Lincoln's-Inn, another of the four principal inni of court, was originally the palace of Ralph Neville, bifhop of Chichefter, and chancellor of England, a* bout the year 1226. It afterwards devolved to the earl of Lincoln, who converted into a court for the ftudents of law, about the year 1310. From him ic received the name of Lincoln's-inn, and confiftcd only of what is nov« called the old fquare, which it entered from Chancery-lane. At prefent this fquare contains, bcfides buildings for the lawyers, a large hall, where the lord chancellor hears caufes in the fittings after term j and a chapel in the Gothic ftyle, built by Inigo Jones in the year 1623. To this inn belongs likewife a fine garden, which has lately been diminifhed by the building of fome large and com- modious offices, for the ufe of the fix clerks in the court of Chancery, ice. In the parifli of St. James, Clerkenwell, is an hol- pital called the Charter-houfe, which is a corruption of the word ebartriux, a name formerly ufed for a convent, or priory of the Carthufians, which this place formerly was. After the diflblution of monaf- teries it fell to the earl of SuiFolk, who difpofed of it to Thomas Sutton, Efq; a citizen of London, in the time of king James I. for thirteen thoufand pounds. The purchafer intending it for an hofpital, applied to the king for a patent, which he obtained in 161 r, and the grant was confirmed by parliament in 1623. Mr, Sutton having expended feven thoufand pounds in fitting up the buildings, gave it the name of king James's hofpital, and endowed it with lands to the a- mount of near four thoufand five hundred pounds a year, fof 384 t'^5 H MOD N ' [liuHOfr. for the maintenance of eighty gentlemen, merchanti, or foldieri, who (hould be reduced to indigent eircum- fiances 1 and forty boys, to be indruAed In claflkal learning. The men iire provided with handfome a- (larimenti, and all the necclTiries of life except cloatht, infiead of which each of them is allowed a gown, and feven pounds a year, Uf the boys, twenty-nine are at a proper time fent to the univerfity, where each has an alliivtance of twenty pounds a year, for eight years, Others, who are judged more fie for tfade, are put out apprentice, and the fum of forty pounds is given with each of them. As a farther en- couragement to the fcholars, there are nine eccleftar- tical preferments in the gift uf the governors. It is klfo by the recommendation of the latter that all pen- fioners and youths arc received into the hofpital. They conflfl of fixteen, of which number the Icing is always one, and the others arc generally noblemen of the firft rank. To this hofpital belong a maftcr, a preacher, two fchool-mafters, a phyfician, a regiller, a receiver, a ireafure, a flewarJ, an auditor, and other officers ; and the annual revenues of it being now increafcd to upwards of fix thoufand pouiuis, five men and four boys have been added to the original number. In the parilh of St. Luke ft.inJ3 the Habcrdalhcrs alms-houfe, or AJkc's hofpital, fo called from having been eretSted by the company of haberdafhers, purfuaiit to the will of Robert Aflcc, Efq; one cf their members, who left thirty thoufand pounds fur the building, and the relief of twenty poor members of the company ; befides the maintenance and education of twenty boys, fons of decayed freemen of the fame company. This is a large edifice of brick and ftone, four hundred foot long, with a piazza in front, three hundred and forty foot in length, confifting of ftone columns of the Tufcan order. In the middle of the building is a chapel, adorned with columns, entablatures, and pe- diment of the Ionic order; and under the pediment is a niche, with a flatue of the founder. In the fame parilh is the Ironmongers hofpital, likewifc a large building. In the parifh of St. Mary, Whitechapel, (lands the London hofpital, for the reception of the fick. It is a large building, and was ere£led a few years fince by voluntary contribution. Here are alfo fome confider- able alms-houfes. London and Weftminfter, united, form one of the largeft cities in the world, if not fuperior to every other for the number and wealth of its inhabitants. The extent, from Blackwall in the ead, to Tothill- fieldii, is reck3ned feven miles and a half; nnd the circumference, including from Newington-butts, or the fouth fide of the borough of Southwark, to Jef- frey's alms-houfes, in Kingfland Road, not lefs than eighteen miles. .. .; .. SOUTHWARK. Southwark lies in the county of Surry, but being confidered as a fuburb of the m 'ropolis, to which it is contVe£ted by London bridge, i.ie account of it was referved for this place. - - The earlieft mention •! this tAwi? 111 jiiflnry, in m the year 1053, when it wat a diftinct corporation, ftu- verned by its own bailiff-, and it cnjnycd thu privi- lege till 1317, when a grant wjn madi' of it to th« city of London, the mayor ot which was appointed the bailiff of this borough, and might {>overn it by his deputy. Some time afterwards, the inhabitants reco- vered their former jarifdi^lion 1 but in the rcign of Edward VI, th« crown again ['ranted it to the ca> of 'London, for fix hundred and forty- leven pounds two (hillings and a penny ; and in cnnfidrration uf a fai thcr fum of five hundred marks, it wjj annexed to iha city, with a refervation of certain privileges enjoyed there by the nrchbifiinp of Canterbury, and fome othet ecclefiafiics. fiy virtue of this eruiit, it is fubjciftcd to the lord mayor of [.undon, with the llcward and bai- lifF. But Southwark iK.ng divided into two parts, this it to be underltood of the divifion called ihi lioruugh Li- berty, which confifts of three of the parifhes bdoiif;- ing to the town, with the greater part of a fuurth parifli. For the city divifion, the lord mayor, by his iieward, holds a court of record every Monday, at the feflions- I houfe on St. Margaret's Hill, in this borough, fur all I debts, damages, and trefpalfcs, within the limits of hi* I jurifdiiSlion, ! The other divifion is called the Clink, or the Ma- I nor of Southwark, and is fubdivided into the Great I Liberty, the Guildhall, and the King's Manor ; for ; each of which fubdivifions a court' lect is held, where the conftables, ale-conners, and flefli-tafters, are cholen, and other bufinefs of this kind tranfafled. The Clink liberty is under the jurifdidiion of the biOiop uf VVin- chefter, who, befides a court-leet, keeps here a court of record, by his fleward or baililF, for pleas of debt, damages and trefpalTes. Court-leets are alfo kept at Lambeth, Bermondfey, and Rotherhithe, three fmall diflri£)s adjoining to the Borough, Southwark confifts of the pariflies of St. Olave, St. John at Horfleydown, St. Saviour, commonly called St. Mary Overy, St. George, St. Thomas ; the parifh of Chrift-church, though contiguous to the Borough, is in the county of Surry. The principal parifh in Southwark is that of St, Saviour, which was formerly a priory of regular ca- nons. Being dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and fituated near the bank of the Thames, it was called St. Mary Over-Ree, or Overy, by which ap- pellation it is commonly known. This church is fiuilt in the manner of a cathedral, with three ailes from eaft to weft, and a crofs aile. It is reckoned the largeft parifh-church in England, the three ailes firft* mentioned meafuring two hundred and fixty-nine feet in length, and the crofs aile one hundred and nine feet, I'he height within is forty-feven feet, and it ha» a tower with four fpires, a hundred and fifty foot high. Befides feveral alms-houfes, there are here St. Tho- mas's and Guy's hofpitals, twu of the noblell en- dowments in England. The former was firft ere£ted in 1215, by Peter de Rupibus, bi(hop of Winchefter, who endowed it with land to the amount of three hundred and forty-three pounds a year ; from which mftory, ii in puralioti, fiu- ii thi] privi- >i i( to lh« '» appointed cm i( by hif >ii)nti reco< the rcign of the ciij of piiuiiilj two 1 of a fai thcr KXCj to th« ■;ci enjoyed il loinc other ii fubjeitcd vurd and bai- p-irts, this it lioruugh Li- Oies bdui)};- uurth parifli. his iieward, the feUiuni- ugh, fur all limits of bit or the IVfa- the (Jreat Manor ; for held, where 1 are cho(en. The Clinic lop of VVin- lere a court leas of debt, alfo kept at three fmall St. Olave, commonly . Thomas ; ;uou$ to the that of St. regular ca- nary, and St it was which ap> church ia three ailes ckoned the ailes firft. '-nine feet I nine feet. ind it ha» fifty foot St. Tho- >bleft en- ■ft ereAed inchefter, of three )m whicli time England.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. |l# lime it wa* held of tht abbots of Bermundfey, one of wboiii; in 14281 granted a right to the mafter of the holpital, to hold all the lands it was then in ponienion of, belonging to the faid abbot and convent, the whole revenue of which did not exceed two hundred and fixty fix pounds feventecn fl>illings and fix pence ftr annum. In the year 1)51, after the citizens of London had purchafed of Edward VI. the manor of Souihwaik, and its appurtenances, of which this huf- pital was a part, they expended eleven hundred pounds in repairing and enlarging the edifice, and imme> diately received into it two hundred and fixty pa- tients ) upon which the king, in 15531 Incorporated this hofpital with thofe of Chtid-church and Bride- well, in the city of London. The building being much decayed, three beautiful fquares, adorned with colonades, were erc£led by voluntary fubfcription in 1693, to which, in 1732, the governors added a magnificent building, confiDing of feveral wards, with proper offices. The annual difburfements of this hof pital have, for many years, amounted to eight thou- fand pounds. The houfe is divided into nineteen ward>, and il faid to contain four hundred and fcveniy-four beds. Adjoining to St. Thomas's flands Guy's hofpital, perhaps the moft extenfive charitable foundation that ever was eftablifhrd by one man in private life. The founder of this hofpital was Thomas Guy, a book- feller in Lombard-llreet, London, who lived to fee the edifice roofed in, and at his death, in 1714, left two hundred and thirty-eight thoufand two hundred and ninety-two pounds fixteen fhillings, including the ex- pence of the building, to finifh and endow it. This hofpital confifts of two capacious fquares, containing twelve wards, and four hundred and thirty-five beds, Almofl contiguous to ihe borough of Southwark, is the king's bench prifon ; a little beyond which is an- other, lately creeled, called the New Bridewell. VVefl- ward is the Magdalen hofpital, for the reception of penitent proditutes ; and a little farther is fituated the Afylum for orphan girls. At Lambeth, the archbifhops of Canterbury have long had a palace, the north part of which, confifting of a tower, called Lollard's Tower, a chapel, a guard- room, the archbifliop's apartments, a library and cloi- lleis, is fuppofed to have been built before the year 1250. The gate of this palace, and a gallery in the eaft part of it, with fomc adjoining rooms, were eiviSlcd by cardinal Pole ; and the whole palace, at the reftoralion of Charles II. was repaired by archbi- Ihop Juxton. At Vauxhall, near Lambeth, is a fpacious garden for muflcal entertainments, which is open every c/en- ing, Sundays excepted, from about the middle of May till towards the end of Auguft, RepafTing the river Thames, we fliall take a view of the moft remarkable objeAs in the neighbourhood of the metropolis. VVeftward of London lies the village of Kenfing- ton, diftinguifhed by one of the mod magnificent of the royal palaces. It was originally the feat of the No. 31. earl of Notiinghim, from whom it was purchafed bf king William III. who greatly improved it, ThI building is irregular, but the royal apartments vt fumpluojs, and contain fome valuable paintings. The gardens belonging to the palace are three milei and i half in compafs, kept in good order, and, fiiice tht death of his late majelty, who refided here moftly iii the fummer, have conftantly been open to the public. At Chelfea, a Urge and populous village, plcafanity fituated on the bank of the Thames, about two miles fouth-weft of London, is an edifice for the recep- tion of invalid or (jjd foldiers, r?!lcd Chelfea Hof. pital, and fometimcs Chelfea College. It was origi< nally a college founded by Dr. hutkliff, dean of Exc>i ter, in the reign of James I. fur the ftiidy of polemic divinity. The king, who laid the firll Aone of tha building, gave many of the materials, and promoted the wi'tk by a large (um of money. Many of the clergy were alfu very liberal upon the occalion ; but the en- dowment made by Dr. Sutklilf bein^ unequal to the end propufvd, the reft wai left to private contribil« tions, which coming in (lowly, the work was fuf- pended, and foon fell to ruin. At length, the ground on which the building flood devolving to the crown, king Charles II. began to ereft the prcl'ent hofpital, which was carried on by James II. and completed by VVilliam and Mary. The ftruflurc is magnificent, built by Sir Chriftopher Wren, and is one of tho nohlcft foundations of the kind in the world. The principal building confifts of a large qua^ drangle, open to the Thames. The front, in tht middle of which is a gateway leading through it, con< tains a chapel on one fide, -4 hall on the other, and- between them a noble pavilion, with a fine gallery facing the river, fupported by ftone pillars. The two fides, or wings, which arc four florics high, are iU vided into wards, two in every flory, each containing twenty-fix diftin£l apartments. At each of the four cor- ners is a fine pavilion, one for the governor's lodgingSj and the council-chamber, and the others for offices. Befidcs the principal building, there are two othet large fquares, which confift of apartments for the of- ficers and fervants of the houfe, for old maimed officer* of horfe and foot, and of an infirmary for the Tick, with other conveniences. In the area which opens to the I'hamcs, is a fine (tatue of king Charles II. ia brafs, placed upon a marble pedcftal. The number of penfloners in this hofpital is be'' twcen five and fix hundred, who are provided with cloaths, diet, lodging, walhing, fire, and one day's pay every week, for their pocket-money. No man is ad- mitted into this hofpital, unlefs he be difabled, or ha» ferved in the army twenty years. The out penfionert are ufually between eight and nine thoufand, and are allowed feven pounds twelve (hillings and fix pence a year, each. To defray the vaft charges of this hofpital, the army pays poundage } and all officers and foldiers give orre day's pay every year towards its fupport. In cafe of any deficic; y, it is fupplied by a grant from parlia- ment. To this hofpital belongs a governor, a de- 5 D ■....-• .„ . 366 THE MODERN [F.UROPK. ir t I ! Puty-|ovcrnor, t trcafurer, fivt'commifliuneri, • Af w< •rrf, (WO chi|)laiii9, a phyficiin, • ficiciir)r, uki many other officcri. heu Chelfca-horpital it RinelaKh huufe and gu- imt, once the ftat of the carl of Rancligh, but for many yean a place of public coieriainmeui. In the garden, near the houfe, ii a loCundu, the internal dta- metsr of which ii a hundred and fifty foot. Except at the four entrances, it ii furrounded with an arcade, that hat over it a gallery, with balluften. At one of the cntrancea ftandi the orchenra, which wai origi< nally placed in the middle of the area, where at pre- fent there i* a chimney for occafional ufc. The enter- tainment confifti of a fine band of mufic, with an organ, accompanied by the bed vocal perfurmeri | and tea and cofTee are dillributed. At Chelfea, the company of apolltecariei hai a fpacioui phyfic-garden, well (locked with dumeftic and foreign planti. The ground wa* a donation from Sir H*ni Sloane, of whom the company hai ereded a Aa- tue, with an infcription on the pedcftal, expreOing their gratitude. At the wed end of Chelfea, a timber bridge hat lately been ercded over the I'hamc.i, by which a com- munication is opened with Surrey, near the village of Dattcrfca. At Cbifwicic, a village on the bank of the Thames, about fix miles from London, ii a beautiful villa, built by the late earl of Burlington, and now in the pofleflion of the duke of Devonfhire. I'he afcent to the houfc is by a grand flight of marble fleps, on one fide of which there is a (iatue of Inigo Jones, and on the other that of Palladio. The portico is fupportcd by fix fine fluted pillars, of the Corinthian or Jer, with a very rich cornice, freeze, and architrave. The cicU ings of the apartments are highly finiflied j and here are many valuable paintings. In the fouth-weft part of this county, at the diftance of twelve miles from London, is a royal palace, called Hampton-Court. It is fituated between two parks, which, with it3 gardens, are about five miles in cir- cumference. This is a magnificent edifice, and was originally built by cardinal Wolfey, in whofe time it was furnilhed in the moft fuperb manner. The cham- bers, which were adorned with rich hangings, con- tained two hundred and eighty filk beds, for the re- ception of ftrangera only, and the houfie abounded with gold and filver plate. The fplcndor of this princely habitation raifcd fo much envy againft the cardinal, that be was obliged to refign it to Hen- ry VIII. wlio confiderably enlarged it. At prefent, ;bis palace -onfifts of two large courts, befidei one ibr officers and fervants. On one fide of the outer court is a chapel built by queen Anne, and on the other a portico, fupportcd by Doric pillars, that leads to the great flairs, which are finely painted by Verrio, The inner court was built by king William, who furnilhed the apartments in a good taOe. In a gal- lery of this palace is a fine collection of paint- ings. At Twickenham, three miles caflward of Hampton- Court, is the houfe which formerly belonged to Mr. Pope, lad is yet diftinguifftcd by hit name, U it pleafantly fituated on the hank of the I'hamo, hav- ing in the «n4er part a grotto, from which iliere it a fubicrianeous pafl'age beneath the hi^h road, into the garden, where (lands a fmall monument of flonr, ere^UJ by the poet in memory ol his motker. 'I'hit elegant villa is mow in the itoAIeSiun ol VVclborc Lllii, tfq. Sevaial vcAi|;et of antiquity may yet be fern in ih« environs of Liindan. U: the paritii of iflingtou is a field, called the keedma.it, and alfo Six-acre Field, from the extent of it, which appears to have been an ancient furtrcf*, inclofcd with a rampart and ditch. From its form, and the manner of its furtificationi, it it fuppofed to have been the Kuman camp ucciipinl by Sue* toniusPauliuut, after bis retreat from London, and ovt of which he (allird upon the i!iitun« under the ctnduA of their qurrn Eoadicea, vvlicn lie lutally routed ihcA, In the fuutb-weft angle of the ficlJ, is a f<|uarc divifiOA, commonly called Jack Straw '» Cadle, which is fup« poled to have beiii ilic prxtoriuni, or grneraJ's lent. Spitalfields appears toi have been a cemetery in the time of (he Humans i for in 1576, feveral urns were dug up here, containing afhcs and human bones. Many copper coins of Roman emperors, ftituet of Roman deiiies, lamps, cups, and other .nfils, have alfo been found in this place. From urns, and other antiquities, difcovered in the Sunlavern Fields, in the parifh of Shadwell, this place is likewifc (appo(e4 to hav'i been a Roman cemetery. Here was found • lead coffin, inclofcd in one of (lone, containing the body of a woman, with a Cupid cut in (lone upon her bread, an ivory fcepire in each hand, a large urn at her head, and another at her feet ; befides feveral fmall urni, and a great number of glaf* vtlTels, full of white liquor. In the north-weft porch of Stepney church, !« • (lone, which, from an infcription on it, appears to have been brought from fome magnificent ruin in the ancient city of Carthage in Africa. Near Kcnt-flreet, in Southwtrk, was a Roman (lone fortrefs 1 the foundations of which being dug up in 1685, here were found, among other ruins, two pillars, on each of which was engraved a Janus'a head. In Lambeth marfli, in the parifh of Lambeth, are ftill to be letn fome remains of the ditch', or channel, cut by Canute the Dane, when he beficged London, to turn oft" the courfe of the Thames, from at part ol the river now called, the King's Barge- ho-jftf, to the ea(t fide of the place in which London-bridge was afterwards built. Near Vauxhall are yet vifible the remains of a baf- tion, and lines, caft up by tbo Remani, which in the civil wars under Cliailes I, were repaired for the fe>' curity of London, From the river Thames, at Lambeth, a trench, cuf by the Romans, may be traced to Deptford. Thi* had, doubtlefs, been intended to prevent the incur- fiona of the Britons into Kent, before the Romant crofTed the Thames, and conquered the Trinobantes. Near fiermondfey-flteet, in the parifh of St. Mar/ 1 a Magdalen, EnolANd.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. i^f MagdiUn, BMinonJrcy, are iha rwiwini ef k Koman fori, which ha« almoU th« fame appaarance ■• if it bad been racenily dcmolilhed. The mailiet-Mwni in Middlefeic ar , Brentford, EJgeware, EnikU, Siainei, and Usbridge. Urencford derivti iu name rrom a fmall river called the Brent, which runs through it, and falli into ttie Th^mei. It ii ten milei diftant Crom Lon>4on, and ii divided intu the new and the old towni. in the for- mer ii a maricet-houfe and a church, which wai firft built in the reign of Richard I. and ii onljr a cfiapcl (u Great Ealing, • village about a mile diftant, Thii place ii a great tborooghfare to itie Weft i and being fiiuated fu near London, and upon iheTbames, has a conAderable trade, particularly in corn, Edgeware ii a little town on the bwderi of thii county, at the diftance of twelve milei wt(t of Loi»- don. It confifti only of one ftreet, and hai nothing worthy of note, Enfield ii diftant from London eleven milei. Till the beginning of the prefent century, the country hereabouts wai fenny and moorifh, but being now fo much drained, all except the part called Enfield Wafti, it is become good land. Thii town hai feveral ftreet'>, and wai formerly famous for tanning of hides. I' ii plcufaiitly fituated, in a good air, and there are many gcntlenlcn'a feati in the neighbourhood. Staines is faid to derive its name from a Saxon ^word fignifying a (lone, which was applied to this place from a boundary ftone anciently fet up here, to mark the extent of the city of London's jurifdiflion upon the Thames. It is fituated nineteen miles from London, is a pleafant, populous town. With feveral goo ies in the province of Canterbury, and dio- rxfe oi London, and contains four hundred and fif- teen pariflies, It is divided into twenty hundreds, and haa twenty-four market-towns, but no city. Thefe towns n m ii ri :i {, ', ^l ' u. r l ■ tf ]r ' i i '111 388 THE M .0 towns arc, Barking, Billericay, Braintree, Witham, Burntwood, Waltham-Abbey, Chelmsford, Waldoni Chipping-Ongar, Coggefhali, Thaxtcd, Colcheder, Dunmow, Eppiiig, Rumtord, Gray's- Tburrock, HaU fted, Rochford, Rayleigh, Manninguee, Hatfield- Broadoak, Ingateftone, Harwich, and Maldon. Barking, (o called from n Itrcam upon which i» is fituau'd, is didant ten miles from Loudon, and ftands upon a creek^ where the Barking fdlls into another ftreaoi, named the Roding, about two miles above their confluence with the Thamrs. 'I'he town is large, and inhabited chiefly by filhcrmcn. VValtham-Abbcy is fitiiated thirteen miles from Lon- don, on the river Lee, which here forms feveral fnitU iflands, that are often overflowed. This abbey was builc by king Harold, who being killed in battle againft William the Conqueror, was buried here. In the reign of queen Elizabeth, fome workmen difco- vered his coffin, over which was a grave-ftone, with no other infcripton than, luftvUx HaroU, Rumford lies twelve miles from London, and is a great thoroughfare to Harwich, as v-li as to mod towns of note in SufFolk and Norfolk, Epping is fituated at the dillanccol fcventetn miles from London, on the fide of a foref^, called from this town, Epping Forcft, which is a royal chare, and reaches from this place to within five miles of Lon- don. The market of this town is kept in a hanilct ) E R N [Europe, lowed to be greatly fuperior to any other, but it hu not been fo much cultivated of late years as foe- merly. At Afhdon, about three miles north-weft of this place, there are four barrows, or pyrainidical hillocks, eredled by Canute the Dane, in memory of a battle Aat was fought upon the fpot, in which he totally defeated the amiy of Edmund Ironfide. At Cheflerford, a village four miles north of Wal- den, were difcovered, fome years ago, the ruins of a Roman city. The walls appear to have encompafled about fifty acres of ground ; and the foundations nt a Roman temple are flill very vifiblc. 'I'haxted, anciently called Tackdeda, and fame- times Tafted, Itands upon the river Chelmer, at thedif- tance of forty- two miles from London, The town is not veiy coufidcrable, but the church is a (lately building. Chelmsford is fituated twenty-nine miles north-eaft of London, in a fine plain, on the river Chelmer, near its confluence with a fmall ilrcam called the Conn. It is a large and populous town, and a great thorough- fare ; by the profit arifing from which fituation it chiefly fubfills. Here is one church, which appears to have been rebuilt almoft four hundreo years ago: and there is alfo a bridge over the Chelmer. Braintree is diflant forty-two miles from London, and is a large town, Jt abounds with difl'enters, and the church Brentwood flands fcventeen miles from London, and is only the part of a parifh called Southwold cum Brent. It is fituated on a hill, in the road co Har- wich, and is a populous place. The county aflizes have often been held here ; and there are frequent horferaccs on a neighbouring plain, called Penlow- Wood Common. Gray's-Thurrock, Billericay, and Hatfield-Broad- oak, contain nothing worthy of note, Dunmow, called alfo Great Dunmow, is fituated thirty-eight miles from London, on the fide of the called Epping- Street, about a mile and a half from had a confiderable manufacture of baize fome year* ago. Witham flands thirty-feven miles from London, in the great road to Harwich and Suffolk. It is a plcafant town, and there are many elegant feats in the neighbourhood. Much company reforts hither in the fummcr, to drink a chslybeat water called the Spaw. Maldon, or Maiden, \h fituated thirty-eight milei from London, on an eminence, near a bay called Blackwatcr-bay, formed by the influx of the rivers Chelmer and Hlackwaler into the fea. The town ii populous, and confifts chiefly of one long ftrcet, branched out into different lanes, Here is a larpe river Chelmer It is an ancient town, but its trade j library for the ufe ot the minifler of the place, and is confined chiefly to a manufacture of baize. This is the clergy of the neighbouring hundreds, who gene- rally refide here, on account of the unwholefome air of their own pariflies. The town has a convenient and Colcheffcr, there are dill to be feen the remains 1 haven for fljips of about four hundred tons; and fome of an old Roman w.iy, which the inhabitants call the of the merchants carry on a confiderable trade in coal. fuppofed by fome to be the Cifaromagus of the Ro- mans. In feveral parts of the road, between this place Street. Here was formerly a priory j and it is re- corded, that in the reign of Henry III. the lord Fitz- waiter inltituted a cufioin, that whatever married man made oath, kneeling upon two fliarp ftones in the church -yard of the priory, that for a year an J a day af- ter marriage, he neither direiSlly nor indiiedtl/, fleep- ing or waking, repented liis bargain, had ii.'.y quar- rel with his wife, or any way trarilgrelT'ed his nuptial obligation, he fliouKI he entiileu to a flitch of bacon. The records of this pl.-.ee mention four perfoiiSj one of them fo lately as 174,^, who have claimed and re- ceived the bacon upon thefc terms. Safli'fOii-VValden is fituated (in the borders of Cambridgefhire, about forty-two iniks from London, 'i'bc faff'ron growing about thts place is generally al- iron, deals, and corn. Blackwater B^^y is famous for excellent cyflers, called Wallfiects, from a wall of earth which extends five miles along the (bore where they lie. Camden is of opinion, that the Wallfleet oyiUrs are thoft; which Pliny mentions to have been ufcd in the Roman kitchens, and the fame that Aufo- nius means in the following verfe to Paulinus ; ■•» Mira Cakdsnius nomiunquam dcteg'it crjlus. From fotne coins which have been ii- \ up at this place, it appears that Maldon was the Cameludu- num of the Romans, and the feat of the kings of the Trinobantes. This was the fitft Roman colony ii\ Britain, being occupied in the year 43 by the empe- ror Claudius, who placed here a band of veterans, and mi % >i.K<.: nt*^ n. ^J/af',^ cfnl'AaJ 7f'/: ill /i'/to //'ffrcc/.ici //in>U(//t (^(<'t/(i/({( /ft /'Jjt'. /// England.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 389 dnd called it Colonia Viflriccnfis. Here was a temple crcdtcJ to Claudius, in which nood an al- tar, called the Aliar of Eternal Dominion ; and certain priefts, called Sedalcs Auguftales, were ap- pointed 10 attend it. The oppreHion of the Roman fuldiers on this flation, however, fo much exafperated the Britons, that in a few years they bcfiegcd and de- ilroycd the city ; but it was afterwards rebuilt. I'here is a cudom in this place, that if a man dies intellate, his poflcffions defceiid to his youngeft fon, or it he dies without ifl'ue, to his youngeft brother. This cudom, which it called Borough Englifl], is fald to have been formerly much more general, and to have taken its rife from the praitice imputed to the feudal lords, who, when any of thofc who held under them married, claimed the firft night with the bride. As a doubt might fomeiimes arife, whether the firft- born child was the fon of the hufband, this cuflom was introduced, to cut oft' fuch child from its in- inheritancc ; and the youngeft, as moft remote from fufpicion, was preferred in its ftead. Rayleigh ftands thirty-five miles fro.ti London. It appears to have been formerly of confiderable extent, but at prcfent confifts only of one ftreet, which, how- ever, is broad and handfome. Rochfurd is diftant forty miles from London, and ftands on a fmall ftream that falls into a river called the Crovvch. Near this place is a hill, called King's Hill, where the lord of the manor of Rayleigh holds a court, on the Wednefday morning after Michaelmas, at cock- crowing. This court is called Lawlefs Court. The fleward and fuiters arc obliged to tranfaiSt their bufi- nefs in whifpers. They are not allowed cither fire or candle ; a piece of coal fupplies the place of pen and ink ; and he who owes fcrvice to the court, and does nut attend, forfeits double his rent for every hour. Camden fays, tliis attendance is a punifliment impofed on the tenants, for having met at the like unfeafonable hour in a confpiracy againft their lord. Coggefhall, or Coxall, ftands on the river Black- water, at the diftance of forty-feven miles from Lon- don, It had once a very confiderable manufa£lory of baize and fays, as it has at prefent of a peculiar ftufF, called Cuggcfiiali whites, faid to be finer than any other woollen cloth. Near this place was found, in a grotto by the road- fide, a phial, containing a lamp, covered with a Ro- man tile. In the cavity were alfo feme urns, with alhes and bones in them. On one of them, which rc- (cniblcs coral, was infcribed, Coccilli M. This is interpreted, The manes of Coccillus, from whom the town is fuppofed to derive its name. Co'chefter ftands on the river Colne, fifty-eight miles from London. This is a populous place, and the chief town of the county. It is about three miles in circumference, picafantly fituatcd on the fide of a hill. Here are ten parifli churches, one Dutch church, one French church, and five meeting -houfcs, two of which belong to the Quakers, It was anciently fur- rounded by a flrong wall, and defended by a caftlc, the ruins of which are yet to be fecn. Three bridges No. 33. over the river Colne, which, by ^n a£l of parliameiit, was made navigable for fmall craft up to a long flreel near the watcr-fidc, called the Hith, where is a quay i and for (hips of large burden, to a place called the Wyvcnhoe, withiji three miles of the town. At this place is a cuflom-houfe, and a little farther towards the fea the water may receive a royal navy. This town has the greateft manufadlurc of baize and fays of any in England. It is alfo reniarkalc for candying eringo roots, but yet more for its oyller^s. Thefe are taken near the mouth cf the Colne, upon fands called the Spits, and are carried to the VVyvenhoc, where they are laid in beds or pits on the fhore to feed. When they have continued in thefe pits fome time, they arc barrelled, and brought to Colchcfter, whence they are fent in great quantities to London, and other parts. Such flioals of fprats arc caught anJ con- fmmcd by the woollen manufafturers here, that the common name for this fiHi in Eflex is, the weavci'a beef of Colchefter. That Colchefter fiourilhed in the time of the Ro- mans is evident, not only from the number of ancient coins found iiere, but from feveral buildings which re- main. At the Queen's Head inn, in the market- place, the ftable, and the room over it, is a Romaa ftructure. The churches and their towers feem to have been b)iih of Roman bricks and ruins ; and there v/as a Roman military way, that led hence weftward, quite acrofs the county to Hertfordfhire. Manningtree, or Maintrec, is diftant fifty nine miles from Londonj and ftands on the river Stour, over which it has a bridge. Jt is a little dirty town, but has a good oiarket. The church is a chapel of cafe to a neighbouring jvillage, called Miftley. Harwich is fltuiited at the mouth of the river Man- ningtree, on the Qcrmau ocean, feventy-three miles north-Ci^ft of London. The town is not large, but well built and populops, and is furrounded by a wall. Between the town and a high hill, called Beacon Hill, not far diftant, is a clilF, confifting of a kind of clay, fragments of which are continually falling down into a petrifying water at the bottom, which they im- bibe-, and being afterwards taken out and dried, they become a hafd and durable ftonc. Of this ftonc the walls and pavement of Harwich confift. Here is a very fafe and fpacious harbour. The mouth of it, at high ■■•":;:, is near three miles wide ; but the channel, by which alone the fliips can enter the harbour, is narrow, though deep, and lies on the Suft'ulk fide ; fo that all vclTels that pafj are com- manded by a ftrong fort, called Landguard fort, built by king James I. on a point of land, fo furrounded by the fea at high-water, that it looks like an iHaud lying about a mile from the fhore. Here is alfo a good yard for building fliips. This town is the ftation for the packet-boats which carry the maiU between England and Holland, and is like- wife the port to pals to and from Holland and Ger- many. The innb are good, but the great concourfc of paftlngcrs renders accommodations very dear. On Beac.on-hill, fouth of the harbour, and oppofite 5.Ji ie m i 3$o H M to the fort, there is a large high-built light-houre, Whence is an extenfive view of the coafts ol Effex and Suffblk. Souch.wed of Harwich are th ee idands, called Pewet, Horfey, and Holmes, which, however, are f.;- parated from the main land only by the winding of a ftre-im, and the influx of the fea. Upon thefe iflandi is found a fea-fowl, which, when fat, is vny deli- cious food. Southward of the iflands are three vil- lages, which are included within a liberty or lurdfhip, anciently called the Liberty of the Soke. In theie villages the flierifF of the county has no power ; and no writ can be executed but by the bailiff of the li berty, nor by him, without the confent of the lord, At Weft Tilbury, clofe to the river Thames, and dircflly oppofite to the block houfe at Giavefend, is a fortrefs, which is kept condantly garril'uned. I'he efplanade is very large, and the bailions, which are faced with brick, are the largell in England. It has two moats, or ditches, one without the other, the innermoft being a hundred and eighty feet bro.id. It has alfo a good counterfcarp, and covered way, marked out with ravelines and tenailles. On the land fide are two fmall redoubts of brick ; and the garri- fon can, at pleafure, lay the whole under water. On the fide next the river is a very ftrong curtin, in the middle of which is a lablc gate. Before the curtip i' a platforUi, mounting above a hundrec*. guti;, rVuiT' twenty-foir to forty-fix poundetj, bcfijcs irnall ;. pieces planted between thofe that are mounred on th baftions and curtin. At a little diftance from the fort, ftanJi a i • M town called Eaft Tilbury, wKerr, in a chjlkj- T, are feveral fpacious caverns, about twi':"" ^"cf „ , ,., and gradually tapering •jj.wards. T; ■•! mc ixiy 'Wil- fully lined with Rone, and arr fuppori-L! to be ihc vi-'t- of the ancient Britons, wf"0 probably ufed 'hem for i.'^;in?.ies, m the manner of the Germans men- tioned ly Thtiiisv. E^Tex li part of <> country anciently inhabiic-; by the TritKibtntrv, v,''...,m Caefar reprefents as the moft warlike people that he had found in the iflanJ. 't fends to parliament eight members, viz. two lor the county, and two for each of the towns of Col';hefter, Harwich, and Maldon. HERTFORDSHIRE. Hertfordfhirc is bounded on the eaft by liflex, on the fouth by Middlefex, on the weft by Bucking- ham/hire and Bedfordfliire, and on the nort'.i by Cam bridgertiiie. It meafures twenty-eight miles in length from eaft to weft, and thirty-nine in breadth. This county is watered by feveral rivers, the chief of which arc the Lee, the Coin, the New River, the Stort, and the Ver, Of thefe the firft three have been already defcrlbed. The Stort rifes in the north-eaft part of the county, and pafling by Bifhop's Storlford, a market-town, and feparating the counties of Hcrt- j ford and Eflisx, falls into the river Lee, not far from Hoddefdon, an-,:hcr market-town of this county. The D E R N [EvRoTii river Vtr, Alorc, or Moore, riibs in the weft part of the county, and running fouth-etift, paiTes by St. Al- ban's, whence running fouthward about two or thrc4 miles, it falls into the river Colne. The air of this county is pure, and on that account healthy. 7"he foil is generally rich, a.id in re\'eral places mixed with a marl, which produces excellent wheat and barley. The paflures, however, are but indifferent ; fuch as are dry generally producing fern and broom, and thofe that are wet ruflies and mofs • but for feveral years part, the wet lands h.ive been jreatly improved by the invention called bufh-draining. Hertfordlhire is divided into eight hundreds ; and the jufticcs of the peace, for the greater convenience of themfelves and the people, have divided the count* into three parts, in each of which they hold their fe- veral courts, or petty fefiions. It lies in the province of Canterbury, partly ir. the diocefc of London, and partly in that of Lincoln, and contains a hundred and twenty parifhes There is not within its limits any city, but here are nineteen market-towns, viz. :t. Alban's, Baldock, Markway, Barnet, Bcrkham- fted, Bnntingford, Hatncld-Bifhnps, HeniftcJ, Hert- ford, Hitchin, Iloddcfdon, Rirkmanfworth, Royfton Standon, S'lvenage, Stortford-Biftiops, Tting, Ware, ;ind Watford. Stortford-Bifliops derives its name from a ford over ; th-; river Stort, at the bottom of the town, which, li.ce the time of William the Conqueror, has belonged I tc ;he bifliops of Lond'-'n. It ftands on a hill declining to the river, at the diftance of twenty-eight miles from the capital. It is a confiderable well. built town, full of good inns, being a thoroughfare to Cambridge, Newmarket, and feveral towns in Siiffolkj and confifts of four ftreets, in the form of a croft. On a hill In the middle of the town ftands tha church, which has a haiidfome tower, and a fpire co- ' vered with lead, fifty feet high. The bilhop of Lon- i^un ap{.oints a bailiff here, for what is called the Li- berty, and to him are dir£ted flieriffs warrants, to be executed in this and feveral of the ncighbonring pa- riflies. The bailiff has a right to ftrays, and to the i/.iii of corn and cattle in its market and fairs. The bif^.'jp holds his courts leet and baron at the manor of Padpiore, at the north end of the town. This place forncrly enjoyed the right of fending members to par- liair.ent, but has long ago loft that privilege. Standon, or Standlow, is a final I town on the river Rit, twenty-nine miles from London, and has a handfome church, with feveral endowments for a fchool, and for the poor. Buntingford is another fmall town, fituated on the fame river, in the poft-road to Cambridge, at the diftance of thirty-two miles from London. It ftands in four parifhes, to one of which, called Layfton, it is a chapelry. Here is a fumptuous alms-houfe, founded and endowed by Dr. Seth Ward, biftiop of Saruni, ia Wiltfliire, for four old men, and as many old woiiien, who, from a flate of aftluence, have been reduced by misfortunes to poverty. Barkway ftands thirty f.v mi!es from London, and is a populous and flourifhing town. Baldock England.] GENERAL TRAVEL!. KRi 39 i tn London, and Buliioclc is thirty-eight miles Jidant from London. In the middle of it ftands a handfome church, with three chancels, and a beautiful tower. Here are many maltfleri, and th'. market of the town is very conl'i- derablc, both fi>r corn and malt. A little wcftwatd if Baldocic, the Koman military road, known by the name of Ickening-ftrect, runs through an intrench- ment, the rcina.iis of a Britilh towi., now called Wil- bury-hill. Between Caldccot and Hinxworth, twv villages a little north of lialdock, feveral Koman aaciquities were difcovered in 1724, particularly earthen vcllels, or urns, full of aflies and burnr bones j feveral human fkeletons not above a toot below the furface of the eaith ; patcus of fine red earth, flafs lachiymatories, a brafs tribulm, and iome other things. Ai Afhovcll, in the neigl>buurhood of this place, is a fpot of ground, confuting of twelve acres, called Arbury Banks, thought to be one of the caftra exploratorum of the Romans. Royfton ftands at the diflancc of thirty-eight miles from London, par'.ly lituated in this county, and partly in Cambridgtlhire. It is a well-built, populous town, and carries on a connderable trade in baricy and malt. It is fuppofed to have derived its name from a lady named Royfia, who, in the opinion of iome antiquaries, was countefs of Norfolk, in the leign of king Stephen, but, according to others, the wife of Pagan de Beauchamp, the third baron of Red- ford. This lady is faid to have ere£ied on the way- fide, near the fpot where Royfton now (lands, a ftonc crofs, which was therefore called Royfe's Cro'.s. A monaflery being fome time afterwards founded almofi contiguous, feveral inns and houfes were alfo bu>lt, and at length became a town, which, from Royfe's Crofs, was called Royfe's Town, and by contrai^ion, Ruyflon. Some remains of the c.ofs arc yet t; be feen, near an inn which (lands at >He meeting of the old and new poft-road from London to Bigglefwade, Royllon is fuppofed to have been a Romtn town, on account of many coins which have been dug up near it. The Roman way, called ■ cenild Street, runs on the eaft fide of it, and almol in every eminence in the neighbourhood there it .< ;ow. Stevenage ftands at the difl of thirty. one miles from London, in the great n' 11 road. Here is a free fchool, and feveral charitable indations. Ware is fituated in a vallt , , on the eaft fide of the river Ltc, twenty-two m cb from London, and is one of the beft pofl-to = on the north road. It confifts of one (Ireet about a mile in length, with fe- veral back (Ireets and lanes, well inhabited. I'he church, which is built in the form of a crofs, is large, and has a handfome gallery, cic£led by the governors of Chtifl'sHofpital in London, who formerly fent hither feveral of the children of that hofpital, either for health or education. At one of the inns of this town, there was formerly a famous bed, n 1 -h vifited by travellers, which is faid to have been vnv large, and capable of containing twenty couple. This town is a great market for corn and malt, five thoufand quarters of the latter being ofieti fent to London in a week by the barges, which generally return with coals. Hartford, or Hertford, is pleafantty fitusted in i plain, twenty-three miles from London. It is built in the form of a Roman Y, and has a caftic placed be- tween the two horns, in which is the feffion-houfe for the county, and likewile the jail. I he town had for- merly five churclies, which are now reduced to two» iKimely, All Saints and St, Andrew's. The ^overnor* of Chrill's Hofpital, in London, have erefted, in this town, a good hoiifc for the reception of fick and I'upernumerary children, and have alfu built a largR gallery in the former of the churches above men- tioned, in which two hundred children may be ac- rommodated. The grammar fchnol here is a handfome llrudure, and well endowed ; befides which, there are three charity Ichools. 1 he chief commodities of this town are wool, wheat, and malt ; of the latter of which, it is computed, that not lefs than five thou- fand quarters are fent weekly to London, by the river Lee. 'Ihe profperity of this town, however, is conlt- dcrably diminifhcd, fin:e the north road from London, which went through it, has been turned to the towit of Ware. The caftle if Hcrt.''3rd was built by Iring Alfred^ to Jefen' 'he town '^nd nciphbourhood againft the Danes .vho catne up in thr.ir light pinnares from the Thame:., by the river Lee, as far as Ware, where they er.-i£led a fort, whence thev niade feveral faliies to plunder and dcftroy the country. Hoddefdon, or Ho'<'Jon, {l^>;ids in the north road^ at the diftance of fe ^ntren inilcs from London. The town is fmall, but here is a .o.idderabie market for "11 forts of corn. Chefhunt, near this place, is thought by fome to be tliff Li rolituni of /vntoninus, w.^ich in his Itinerary he pla cs fift(.i:n miles from London, and which ftands : ai the military way called Erni! le Street. In Kiim le t'^flu, wi'i' oC Chefhurt, are the remains .'fa c;.o.;j An ang'tc' 'lit fortifitation is yet vifible, as are alio vht; ..irnpar*: and ditch, for above a hundreo yards. f-'aiiield, foimerly c-'lled Hcathfiel:', or Hatfield. Hifhops, from its belonging to the bifiiops cf Ely, is fiti'ar'd in the gr.;at north road, at th* diftance of twenty miles fmm London. This town had once a royal palace, from which both king £dward VI. and queen hiizabeui, were conduced to the throne. Ed- ward was edi'arcd here, and Elizabeth purchafed the nianor of the bifhop of Ely. Barnet, called alio High Barnet, and Ciieaping Bar* net, ftands at the diftance of ten miles from London, in the great north road, and is therefore well fupplied with innr.. Here is a great market for corn and cattle, but efpecially for fwinc. Elftrec, Idleftrcc, or Eagleftree, near Barnet, is thought by Nordcn to have been the ftation of the Sul- loniscx, mentioned by Antoninus in his Itinerary* but Camden and biftiop Gibfcii think it was at Brock- Icy-hill, in this neighb'iurhood, mrriy tvir.3, urnsj Roman bricks, and other antiquities, naving been dug up ;here. At a place called Pennyw:!', near Brockley- hill, ate yet vifible the foundations of feveral walls, which, tradiiion informs us, are the remains of i city. St. Aibans derived if name from an abbey, built there in 703, to the memory of Albanus, the firft Britifli i ,;• i:^= 39* THE MODERN [Europe. Bnt! h mirtyr, who fuifered in the perfecution underthc I this occafion, being Ma emperor Dioclefun, was canonized as a faint, and bu- thofe cities were rebuilt, at ried on a hill in the neighbourhood of the town. It is Atuatcd twenty-one miles north-wed of London, and is a large and populous place, having four parifli churches. The church named St. Alban's is a lafge pile of build- ing, founded by OSi, king of the Mercians, in the year 793. This town is not remarki.ble for any ma- nufaiSuic, but has one of the greate/c weekly inatlcets in England for wheat. It >s fnp^ofcd to have rifen out of the ruins of a Roiran town, called Vcrulam, which was fituated on th'.' other fi Je of the river Ver. Vcrulam was a large anJ populous city, even when Julius Cxfar invaded Britain, though noih'ng remains of it at prefcnt but the ruins of walls, and fome teflelated pavements. In the laft century there was dug up in this place a copper coin, which on one fide hud Romulus and Remus fucking a wolf, and on the other, the word Rema, much defaced. Near the town of St. Alban's are iUll the remains of a fortifi- cation, which the common people call OylUr-hills, whence it is fuppofed to have been a camp of Oflorius the propraetor. In the middle of the town of St. Alban's, Edward I. credted a (lately crofs, in memory of queen Eleanor. In the church of St. Alban's, in this town, not many years ago was difcovercd the tomb ot Hum- phrey duke of Gloucedcr, brother to Henry V. The body was prcferved almoft entire, by a fort of pickle, in a leaden coffin in which it lay. In this church are alfo feveral other funeral monuments and infcrip- tions ; among which is the effigy of king Offa, the founder of th 'hurch, on bis throne ; one of St. Alban the martyr, and another of Humphrey duke of Gioucefter, already mentioned, with a ducal co- ronet, and the arms ot France and England quar- tered. In niches, on the fouth fide, are the effigies ct fevcnteen kings uf England. In the church there wa.< alfo a noble font of brafs, a donation of fir Richard Lea, -nafter of the pioneers, whu brought it amoni; other plunder, out of Scotland ui the year 1543, where it ferved as a font for baptif- ing the children ot the royal family, but was here ufcd for '.'ae common baptiflry, till it wai carried away in the civil wars in the time of king Charles I. In St. Michael's church, among other monuments, is one in memory of Francis Bacon, lord Verular.i, with his effigy in alabafter, featcd in an elbow chair. This celebrated ptrfonige was born at Gorambury, in the neighbourhood of St. Alban's ; and at Abbots Langicy, a village t'.iice miles fouih-weft of St. Alban's, was born Nicholis Brcakfpear, who became pope, by the name of Adrian IV. the only native of England that c«er ti'Icd the papal chair. V^'hen the Romans drove from Verulam the power- ful Caffibelinus, they plundeied the town, but the inhabitants living quietly under the Roman govcrn- miiut, they were rewarded with the privilege of citi- ■ens of Rome, and their town made a municipiiiin, or city. This is one of the two Roman cities that were taken and facked by the Britons, under the con- Judt of Boadicr.a } the other which was deflroyed on i Iden in ElTtx. But both and flouriflici afterwaidt un* der the Romans. Watford is diflant from London feventeen miles, and confifts of one very long ftreer, which is ex- tremely dirty in the winter, and the waters of the river Coin, at the entrance of the town, arc often fo much fwelled by Rao Id as to be impalfable. The pra-'torian, or confiilar highway, called Walling. ftreet, erodes the Coin near this town. Hempfied is twenty-nine miles diilant from Lon- don, and (lands among hills, upon a frn.iil river called the Gade. It is confiderably populous, and the market has been reckoned the grcateft in the county, if not in all England, for wheat. I; is com- puted :hat twenty-thoufand pounds a week are often returned here for meal only. Eleven pair of mills ftand within four miles of the place, which hence de- rives a great trade; but the road is fo much torn with carriages, that it is one of the worft turnpike ways to London, Befides the trade of thi; town in corn and meal, fome thouOnd pounds a week are re- turned for the manufacture of ftraw hats, Hitchin flands in a pleafant valley, thirty-five mile* from London, and is reputed the fecond town in the county for the number of houfes and inhahitants. Here is a great market for all forts of grain, and great quantities of malt are made in this town. At Hexton, weft of Hitchin, there is an oval camp of great ftrength, fituated on a high hill ; near which, on another hill, is a barrow, or mount, fuch as the Romans ufed to raife for their foldiers that were killed in battle, in which many bones have been found. A little from hence a battle was fought between the Danes and Edward the Elder; and a piece of ground adjoin- ing to the camp, in which are remarl able long fur- rows, is to this day called Dane Furloig, About the fame diftance, fouth of Hexton, ftands Ravcniborounh Caftle, an oblong camp of about fixteen acres, with an entire fortification, and defended fo well by na- ture, that a thoufand men may protect it againft a great army. The manor of Wimlcy, or Wimondley Magna, near Hitchin, is held by the lord, upon condition that on the coronation-day he performs the office of cup-bearer to his fovereign. The cup muft co.i.'..1 of filver gilt, and is afterwards given to the bearer as the fee of his office, which has been appendant to this manor fince the Cunqueft. I'erkhampfted lies upon the borders of Buckinq;- hamfhire, at the diftance of thirty miles from Loa- (!on. It confifls chiefly of a handfome broad ftrcet of coni'iderabie length, filuaied on the fijc of a hill. The church, which ftands in the middle ot the town, is a fpacious edifice, and has many chapels and ora- toiies. On the pillars are reprefenr^iions of eleven of t.' •: apoflles, with each of tiicm a fentence of the creed ; and on the twelfth pillar is a figure of St, George killing the dragon. Hcri" is a grammar- fchool, a handfome bfick flrui^turr, and well endowed, the patron of which it the king 1 and the vifitor is the warden of All-Souls colk'ge in Oxford. H;re is aKo a England.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 393 nlfo an altns-houfc, built by Mr. John Saycr, and his wife, wiio enduwed it with thirteen hundred pounds lor the m;»in;cnantc of fix poor widowi. Kijig Henry 11. Icept his court in this to\vn, and granted it feveral privileges, particularly that its mef' chandize (houUl priHi free of toll and cudom through England, Normandy, Acquit.iin, and Anjou, and that no judicial p'occfs (hould be executed by any of the king's oflicers within its liberties, but only by its own high (Icward, coroner, and bailitF; that no market (hould be kept within ("even miles of it ; and that the inhabitants ihould not be obliged to attend at any af- fizes or feflions. There arc no Icfs than fifty-tbrcc townfliips belonging to the manor that derives its name from this town, which arc obliijcd to do homage, and choofe conftablcs here. Of thefe townfhips, eleven arc in this county, fifteen in Buckinghamfliirc, and twcnty-fevcn in Norihamptonlliirc. It appears from coins, and other remains of antiquity dug up here, that this was a Roman town. Rickmanfworth flands at the dift.ince of twenty- two miles from London, in a low, moorifh fituation. There are feveral mills upon neighbuuring llrcams, on which account great quantities of wheat are brought hither. Tring, or Troung, thirty-three miles from Lon- don, is the mod: wellern town in the county. In the Sa.xon tiircs it gave name to a hundred of which it wa' the capital. It is now a fmall, but neat town, and has a confiderablc i.iarkct for corn, of which there are here very ' ■.,■ f/anaries. At a village called Little Tring, in th, [,'. ifli, rifcs one of the heads of the river Thames. In the time of the Romans, this country was in- habited partly by the Catticuchlini, partly by the Tri- nobantes, and partly by the Caffii, a people mentioned by Caifar, from whom the dillricl now called Caflio hundred, in the fouth-wcft divifion of Hertfordlhire, derives its name. During the heptarchy, this county was divided among the Mercian, Eaft Saxon, and KcntiAl kings. The chief produce of Hcrtfordfhire is wood, wheat, barley, and other forts of grain. Its wheat and barley are io much prized in London, that many thoufand quarters of each are fold every year asthc produce of this county, not a grain of which ever grew in it. The inhabi- tants are, for the moft part, maltfters, niiliers, and dealers in corn ; no manufafture worth notice being eltablifhed in any part of the county. Hertfordlhire fends to parliament fix members, two for the county, and two for each of the boroughs of Hertford and St, Alban's, BUCKINGHAMSHIRE. Um' kinghamfliire, or Bucks, is bounded on the eaft liy Hertfordfhire, with part of Midulcfex and Bcdfordfliire ; > a the fouth by the Thames, which di- vides It (rom Bcrklhirei on the well: by Oxfordfhirc ; and on the north by Northaniptonfljirc. it extends in length, from north to fouth, about thirty. nine miles, and in breadth about eighteen. No. 33. The rivers of this county arc, the Thames, whicli bounds it on the fouth, the Coinc, the Oufe, and the Tame. The two former of thefc have been al- ready dcfcribcd. The Oufe rifes near Bracklcy, a town of Northamptonfliirc, and running north cafl, through the counties of Buckingham, Bedford, Cam- bridge, and Norfolk, falls into the German ocean at Lynn Regis, in Norfolk. The Tame rifes in Buck- inghamlhire, and touching upon Oxfordfhirc, at a m.irket-town of its own name, runs wellward for fome miles, parting thofe two counties, and then turn- ing fouthward, falls into the Thames, north of VVal- lingford, a borough town of Berkdiirc. Befides thefc rivers, feveral namelcfs ftreami glide through other parts of the county. The fouth-cafl part of the county lies high, and confids of a ridge of hills called the Chiltern. The northern part is dillinguiflicd by the name of the Vale. On the Chiltern hills the air is extremely health- ful, and in the Vale it is better than in the low grounds of other counties. The foil ul the Chiltern is ftony, but produces good crops of wheat and barley, and in many places it is covered with thick woods, among which are great quantities of beech. In the Vale, which is exceedingly fertile, the foil is marl or chalk. Some part of it is converted into tillage, but much more is ufed for grazing, which ij found to be fo profitable, that the gentlemen in the county fre- quently keep their eftates in their own hands. The lands that arc let here fetch more rent than any other in the kingdom. This county lies in the province of Canterbury, and diocefc of Lincoln, and contains a hundred and eighty five pariflies. It is divided into eight hundreds, the whole including fouitecn ni.irket-towns, namely, Amerlliam, Aylefljury, Beaconsfield, Chclham, Coin- brook Ivingo, Great Marlow, Newport-Pagnel, Oulney, Monk's Riftiorough, Stony Stratford, Wend- over, XVycomb, and Winflow. Colnbrook, or Colebrook, is fituated cij^hteen miles from London, on four channels of the river Coin, over each of which it has a bridge. Lying on the road to Bath, it has feveral conf.d'^rable inns, by which it chiefly fubfills. This place is fuppofed by Camden to be the Pontes of the ancients, though fome have placed it at Old Windfor, and others at Reading. His rcafons for this opinion are, the exatTl diftance on both fides from Wallingford and London, and the four bridges over rhc Coin. Beaconsficld ftands twenty-three miles from Lon- don, in the Oxford road, and has feveral good inns. Great Marlow, fo called from the marly foil in which it ftands, is fituated at the bottom of the Chil- tern hills, thirty-one miles from London, and is a borough by prefcription. Here is a bridge over the Thames. A confiderablc quantity of bone-lace is made in this town ; and in the nei;;hbourhood there arc ; feveral mills for corn and paper, befidcs one for making thimbles, and another for prelling oil from the feeds of rape and flax. VViccomb, fometimes called High Wickham, or 5 ^ Wvcomb, 3H H MOD R N [EUROPF. m Wycoiutc, and fdmctimej Chippin^-VVickham, is Jituated in the rnad tn Oxford, thirty-nine miles from Londciii. It ft.inds bctwpcn two hills, pic.ifaiitly (luded with Wuud, mid, except AylcflMiry, is the bell built •nd moft wealthy town in the county: though con- fiftiiig only of two ftrcets, it is divided into four wards. Here is a very coiifidcrable market. Ainerfliain, anciently Agmondcfliani, flands nt the didancc of twenty-nine miles from London, in a val- ley between two woody hills, near the river Coin. It confifts of two ftreets, a Ion;; ami a (hort one, which erofs each other at rij^ht aiigka, in the middle, where ftands the church, which is the beA leSioty in the county. In this towt) is a frce-fchool, founded by queen F.liidbcth. 'I'he town-houfe is a brick ftruc- ture, raifed on pillars and arches, and has on the top • lantliorn and clock. Eight miles north-weft of Amerfhaai flands Mn'iks- Rii>)orough, iriiiarkable only for the antiquitioi in its neighbourhood. One of thefe is an old fortific.itinn, called lidinus's cadle, fituatcd at Ellefbornugh, on a round mount near the church. The inhalijiants luive a tradition, that king B-linus refided here. The other antiquity is at Rymbcl, fuppofed to derive its name frtmi Cunobcline, one of the Britifti kings, and con- fiils of tienchcs and fortifications. Not far from Rifliorough, is a high, deep, chalky hill, on the fouth weft fule of which is the figure of a crofs, called White-leaf crofs, from the hamlet in which it ftands. It is formed by trenchci cut into the chalk, about two foot deep, in the fame manner as the horfeon White-horfe hill in Berkfhire, and isalfo fuppofed to be a trophy of the Saxons. The perpendicular line is about a hundred foot long, and the tranfverfc line about feventy. The breadth of the perpendicular line, at bottom, is about fifty foot, but it becomes gradually narrower, and at the top is not more than twenty. The breadth of the tranfverfc line is about twelve foot, and the whole is fupported on a triangle, intended to rcprefent the flight of ftcps, gra- dually dccrc.ifing, on which it was ufual, in thole times, to ercil crofTes in the publir ways. CrofTes and (Icps of this kind are reprefented on fome of the coins of the northern nations, and in fublcriptions to ch.crtcrs granted, in the early ages of Chriftianity, by our Saxon anccrturs. In the neighbourhood of Monk's-Rifborough, lies Princc's-Riftiorough, where, on the top of a hill, are the tr.-iccs of a camp. Wcndover lies at the diftance of thirty nine miles from London, and is a borough by prefcription, though a mean place. Its fituation is low and marihy, but the hills on each fide are pleafant. Aylefbury is diftant from London forty-four miles, and is the bift town in the county, it ftands on a iiring-!;iound, at the eaft end of a rich valley, called Aylefbury Vale, which extends almoft from Tame, on the borders of Oxfordftiire, to Leighton, in the county of Bedford. Ayleftjury confifts of three ftrccts, lying round the m.irkctplacc, which is a large handlome fi|u.irc. From the middle of this area, where ftands the town-hall, there is a caufeway, which extends three miles towards London, and was raifed at the ex- pence of Baldwin the chief juftice, who alfo ered^ej the town-houfe, and fome other buildings. The church of AyltiTjury is l.iid to be the oldeU in this part of the ifland. I'his town was a royal manor in the time uf the Contjueror, and was granted by him to feveral of his favouiites, upon condition that they ftiould finJ ftraw for his bed, and fwect hctbs for his chamber, when he came that way ; and that they (hould thrice in the year provide him thiec eels, and thrice in the fumnier as many green gcele, if he fliould Come (o often into this country. Ivingo is a fmall town, fituated fifty-five miles from London, in a corner between Hedfordfliire and Hert- fordfliire, and is furroundcd with woods. VVinflow, another fmall town, containing no- thing worthy of notice, lies at the diftance of forty- five miles from London, and is alfo furroundcd with woods. A Utile hence, in the manor of Crcdcndon, or Crendon, nie the ruins of a cullle, which was built by Hugh de Balbcc, heir to Walter Giftard, the fcconJ earl of Buckingham, about the middle of the twelfth century. Buckingham is difcant from London about fixt/ miles, and is fliii coiifidered as the county town, though Sir John U.-'ldwin, who was chief juftice of the Common Pleas in the time of Henry VI'I. having purchafed the manor of Ayleftjury, found it his interelt to remove the allizes thither, where they are ftill frc- ([uently held in the winter; but the fummer aflizei have fince been 'eilored to Buckingham by adl of par- liament. The town ftands low,and, except on the north, is furroundcd on all fides by the Oufe, over which it has three ftone bridges. This is the feat of the county- jail, and was once a flaplc for wool ; but that trad* is now entirely loft. Here is a free fchool, and many paper-mills in the neighbtiurhood, on the banks of the Oule. Three miles beyond this town is fituatcd Stowe, the elegant feat and gardens of earl Temple. Aoout the yea- 915, Buckingham was fortified by l'".d\v,iid the KIder, with .' r.impire and turrets, on both fides the bank, agaiiift the inciirfions of the Danes. In the middle of the town, on a high mount, there was anciently 3 caftlc, but by whom, or when built, docs not appear. The mount is yet vifible, but of the caftle hardly any velliges remain. This part of Uuckinghamfllire is thought to have been the feat of action, when the [es of the univerfity, called Merton college, and will be nicntio.lcd after- wards. Here is a town- hall, where the alTizes arc held for the county, and where alfo are held the city and county feflions. The town contains fcvcral charity- fchools, in which about three hundred children are taught and cloathed. At this place is a beautiful bridge, lately rebuilt over the Charwel ; bcfides twd that nf any part of England; and the foil, in general, I ftone bridges over the Thames, which is navigab is very fertile, both for grafs and corn ; but of this there are great varieties. The county abounds with meadows, wiii^h are not excelled by any padures in England. Here is plenty of fi(h of various kinds. Its other chief produflions arc, cattle, fruit, frceftone, and fcveral forts of earths iifcd in medicine, dying, and ftowering. VVood, however, is a commodity not fre- quent, and fuel is confequently very fcarcc. This county lies in the province of Canterbury, and diocefc of Oxford, and contaii-.s two hundred and eighty parilhes. It is divided into fouitrcn hundreds, and has one city, and twelve market-towns. I'he city is Oxford, and the market towns are Hampton, Ban- by barges to the city, the chief trade of which is, in fending malt by thefe vefTels to London. The univerfity of Oxford is one of the nohleft '.i the world, for the opulency of its endowments, ,nd the conveniency of its nianfions for ftudy. It cor fifts of twenty colleges, and five halls, and is a cor lora- tion governed by a chancellor, a high ftew ird, a vice-chancellor, two proilors, and other officers. The chancellor, who is the fuprerne governor, is chofen by ilie Undents in convocation. He continue? in his office for life, and is ufually a peer of the realm. 'The high fteward it named by the chancellor, but mutt be approved by the univerfity. His office, which alio con- tinues '1'! ! :^ 3^6 THE tiimci for life, iJ to aflill lite chancellor in the govern- ment of the univcrfity i anil to hear unJ determine ca- plCiil caul'ci, accoidiii;; to ihc lawn of the UnJ, anJ the privilcees of iheunivcifity. The vice chincellor,whois always of the clerical profcflion, and ihe hei4J of fomc collet-, i» appointid by the chancellor, and approved by the univcrfity. He ai.ls at the cluncclli)r's deputy, and choofej four pro-vicc ehancellori out of the headi of collcgcj, to odici.ile in hii own abfencc, The two proilorK are nulUrs of arts, and are chofcn annually in rotation out of the fcveral cullcj^cs and halls. Their bufinda is, to keep the peace, punith diforders, infpeil wcighlo and nuafurcs, appoint fcho- lalUc excrciies, and the taking of degrees. The pub- lic orator writes Kttcrs in the name of the univcrfity, and harangues princes, and other great perfonages vho vifit it. The number of olTirers, fellows, and fchol.irs, inain- faincd by the revenues of the univcrliiy, is about a thoufand, and the nunib.-r of fuch fcholars as live at their own charge is uliially about two thoufand, the whole amounting to three thoufand pirfons cxclufivc of a great number of inferior ofiiccrs .ml fcrvants be- longing to the feveral colleges and hills, mul tempo- fary inhabitants, in the tli,ir.i.l!i-r of tutor., Jic, Here aie four terms every year, for public excrcifes, lei5tures, and dil'putations ; and fet days and hours when the profeflors of every faculty read their lectures. In Ionic of the colleges there ate public ledlures, to which all pcrfons are admitted. The public fchools, of which there is one for every college, form the ground apartments of a magnificent quadr.mgle, the principal front of which, on the out- fide, is a hundred and fevcnty-five foot long. In the centre of this front is a tower, the higheft apartments of which are appointed for allronoinical obferv ions, and philofophlcal experiments. Three fides of the up- per f.oi) of the quadrangle form one large room, ctlkd the piaurc-gallery, which is furninied with the portraits of founders, bcnefaiaors, and other eminent jicrfons. This quadrangle was originally built by oaten Mary, and was rebuilt in the time of James [. chicfiy at the cxpence of Sir Thomas Uodley, who MODERN [Europe. an rmlncnl ph) Tician,lert forty thoufand poundi lobuilj a library for the iiodleian collrflion of books and manufcripli, with a falary of a hundred and fiflyr pounds a year to the librarian, and • hundred a year towards furnifhing it with new books. In confequence of this legacy, a building was eredUd, under the name uf the New, or Kadciivian library. It Hands if the middle of a magnificent fquare, formed by St. Mary'j church, the public fthouls, and two colleges, one called Brafen Nufe, and the other All Souli. It is a fump- tuous pile ol building, (landing upon arcades, dif- pofcd circularly, and Inclufing a fpacious dome, in the centre of which, afcended by a flight of fpiral fteps, is the apartment fur the books, This elegant library, which is adoincd with fine compartments of flucco, is furrouiided with a ciicular feries ui arches, beauti- fied with fefloons, and fupported by pilaltera of the Ionic order. Behind thefe arches are luimed two cir- cular galleries, an upper and lower range, where the books are difjiofcd in elegant caf>.s. The compartmtnlD of the cieling in the upper gallery are finely fluccoed. The pavement is of two colours, and confifls of a kind of flone brought from Hart's Korcft in Gernuny. The finilliing and decorations of this edifice arc all in the highert tafle, and over the entrance is placed a fla- tue uf the founder. Another magnificent Hruiflure, belonging to thij univcrfity, is the Theatre, ercifed for cclcbiating th« public a£)s of the univcrfity, and the annual comme- moration of bencf.uflors to it, with fome other foleinni- ties. The building is is in the form of the Roman D, The front, which Hands oppofitc to the divinity-fchool, is adorned with Corinthian pillars, and feveral olhei decorations. I'he roof is flat, and refls on the fida walls, which are dilbnt from each other eighty foot one way, and fcvcnty the other. The loof is embd- lirticd with allegorical painting. The vice-chancellor, with the two piuiHors, have feats in the middle of the f^micircular part ; on each land are ranged tlie young noblemen, and doiSors { the maflers of arts occupy the area ; and the reft of the univcrfity, and ftrangcrs, arc placed in the galleries. This flrufturc was built by Sir Chriftophcr Wren, alfo partly erected here a public library, which he fur- | in 1O69, at the expence of Dr. Sheldon, archbifliop rifhcd with fuch a number of books and n;aiiufcripts, that with other large donations, Jt is now become one of the principal libraries in Europe, and is called the BoJUian libiary. The building, like the piaure-gal- Icry, is over the public fchools, and confirts of three fpacious rooms, difpofed in the form of the Roman H. The middle apartment was erected by Humphrey duke of Glouccftcr, over the divinity-fchool, about the year 1440, and by liiiii furnillicd with books. The 'allcry on the welt, with the convocation-huufe beneath, were raifcd at the cxpence of the univtrlity, in the rei"n of Charles I. and the veftibule, or firll gallery, with the profcholium under it, were built by Sir Thomas Bodlcy. In one of the fchools ate placed the Arundel marbles, and in another an ineflinihli. colleaion of ftatues, &c. prcfenled to the univcrfity by llie couiitefs dowager of I'omfict. Upwards of half a century ago, Dr. John RadcliiTe, of Cantcibury, then chancellor of the univcrfity j who having bcilowed fifteen thoufand pounds on the build- ing, endowed it with two thoufand pounds for its pcr- petu.ll rcp.iir. On the weft fide of the Theatre is an elegant mo- dern edifice, called the Aihmolcan Mufeum, built alfo by Sir Chriftoper Wren, at the expence of ihi; univeifity. Its front towards the fircct is fixty foot in length. It coiifilts of two ftorics, and has a grand por- tico, remarkably well finifhed, in the Coiinthian order, i he lower ftory is a chemical elabontory, and the higher a rcpofitory of natural and artificial curiofitirs, and Roman antiquities, chicfiy collciSled by Klias Afhmole, Lfi|i and his father- in law, Sir VVilliain Du..;e, U wji InuiiJ'.J in 1711, anJ built (Nirtly I with the money accruing to the univerfiiy from the | prciKii of the ciijiy of ' ord CUrendon'^ Hiftory ol the Grun.l Rchcllioii, ihr j.ropetty of which wai de- vifrd by hii lard(hip to the univerfiiy. Thii ii a (Irong ftone building, a hundred and liftccn foot in length, wich fjjacious ponicocs in the fouth and north fronts, fupportcd by columnt of the Doric order. The top of tho walls is adorned with A.ituei> of the nine Mufes, and ot Homer, Virgil, and Thucydidej. The Call p;iit uf the building iii chiefly appropriated In the printin[^ of Uiblui, and Common-prayer books, and the welt ii allotted to other books in the learned lan- guages. Here were formerly particular apartments for a letter-fuunJer, and oihcrs for rolling-prcfles, where the Oxford Almanacks, and other pieces, were print. «d from copper- plates. There is alio belonging to this univerfity a phyfic- ■garden, containing above five acres of ground, well furni(hcd with all forts of plants, and endowed with a yearly revenue for its fupport ; the whole being the donation of Henry Danvers, earl of Danby, in 1632. Each college has its own particular library and chapel, and moft of them are adorned with cloillers, quadrangles, piazzas, (latues, gardens, and groves. The names of the colleges are, Univerfity college, Biliol college, Merton college, Exeter college. Oriel college. Queen's college. New college, Lincoln col- lege. All Soula college, Magdalen college, Brafen Nofc college, Corpus-Chrifti college, Chrift-church College, Trinity college, St. John Baptift's college, Jcfus college, Wadham college, Pembroke college, Worcefter college, and Hartford college. Univerfity college is a noble ftruAure, begun in 1634, at the expence of Charles Greenwood, formerly a fellow here, carried on by Sir Simon Dennet, and completed by Dr. John RatclifFe. The magnificent north front of this college extends two hundred and fixty foot along the fouth fide of a flrcet called the High-fVreet, having two ftately portals, with a tower over each. The weftern portal leads to a handfome Gothic quadrangle, a hundred foot on every fide. On the fouth fide of the eaftern quadrangle are the chapel and hall. Befides thcfc, here is another court, confid- ing of three fides, each of which is about eighty foot In length. This college has a mafter, twelve fellows, and feventeen fcholars, with many other ftudents, amounting ill the whole to near ninety. Baliol college is an old Gothic building : it main- tains a mafter, twelve fellows, and eighteen exhibi- tioners, the number of the fociety being about ninety. There arc elegant new buildings lately addedo Merton college confifls of two fquare courts, of which the inner one is a neat and uniform buMding. The chapel of this college, which is alfo the pariih- church of St. John, is a magnificent edifice, with a tower, in which arc fix bells. This college maintains » warden, and has twenty-four fellows, fourteen paft mailers, four fcholars, two chaplains, and two clerks ; the total number of members bci.ng about a hundred. Exeter college confifls chiefly of one handfome quadrangle. In the centre of the front, which is two No. 33, hundred and twenty foot long, ii a beautiful gate of ruftic work, with a handfome tower. It maintain! a redtor, twenty-five fcllowi, a Uible-clerk, and two exhibitioners) the Hudenti of every lutt are about fifty. Oriel college confifls alfo of one uniform qua- drangle, in which there is nothing very remarkable. 'I he members belonging to this college are, a provofl, eighteen fellows, and fourteen exhibitioners ; the number of fludcnts in all being about ninety. Queen's college is fituatcd oppofitc to Univcrfit/ college, on the north fide of the Ui^^h-flreet. The front, which ii formed in the ftyle of the palace of Luxcmburgh, ii at once magnificent and elegant. In the middle of it is a fuperb cupola, under which i> a rtatuc of the late queen Caroline. The area on which this beautiful college flands ii an oblong fquare, three hundred foot in length, and two hundred and twenty in breadth. Being divided by the h.ill and chapel, it is tormed into two courts. The fiift of thofc, or the fouth court, ia a hundred and forty foot in length, and a hundred and thirty in breadth. It is furrouiidcd by a beautiful cloifter, except on the north fide, which is formed by the chapel and hall, and finely finifticd, in the Doric order. In the centre, over a portico leading to the north court, (land a handfome cupola, fuppo;tcJ by eight Ionic columns. The north court is a hundred and thirty foot long, md ninety broad. On the weft fide flandi the library, which is of the Corinthian or- der. This college confifls of a provofl, twenty-two fellows, two chaplains, eight tabardcrs, twenty-two fcholars, two clerks, and forty exhibitioners ) the number of fludcnts of every fort being above a hun- dred and twenty. New college is fituated eaftward of the Schools, and is feparated from Qiieen's college by a narrow lane on the fouth. The firll court is a hundred and fixty-eight foot in length, and a hundred and twenty-nine in breadth, having in the centre a ftatuc of Minerva. The north fide, which confifls of the chapel and hall, is a venerable fpecimcn ot Gothic magnificence. The two upper florics of the eaft fide form the library, and on the weft are the lodgings of the wardens. The cha- pel, for beauty and grandeur, exceeds all in the uni- verfity J and near it is a cloifter, a hundred and forty- fix foot in length on two fides, and a hundred and five on the other two. Contiguous to it, on the north, is a lofty tower, with ten belN. From the fiifl qua- drangle there is a paffago into another, called Garden- court, the beautiful area of which difplays itfelf gra- dually in approaching the garden, from which it is feparated by an iron palifade, a hundred and thirty foot in length. The members of the college are, a warden, feventy fellows, ten chaplains, three clerks, fixteen choriflers, and one fexton, with many gentle- men commoners. Lincoln college confifls of two quadrangular courts, in which there is nothing remarkable ; and maintains •a redlor, twelve fellows, twelve exhibitioners, and fix fcholars, with a Bible-clerk, befide; the independent members. All Souls college is fituated weflward of Queen's 5 G college, ill ! IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I Iii|2j8 12.5 ^ lii 12.2 ^ U£ 12.0 IL25 III 1.4 U4 9%, A? /i ^ ^W> '^Iv'**' ^? A o / Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. USSO (716) •72-4503 o 398 T H B MODERN [ElTROPC. college, ill High-ftreet, and confifti of two courts. The firll of thefe is a Gothic edifice, a hundred and tw«nty-rour foot in length, and feventy-two in breadth. The chapel, on the north (iJr, it a (lately pile } and the hall, which formi one lide of an area to the c*R, i$ an elegant modern room, adorned with many portraits a.id bufls. Adjoining to the hall it the but- tery, which is a well-proportioned room, of an oval figure, and an arched (lone roof, ornamented with cu- rious worlcmaiifhip. The fecond court is a magnifi- cent Gothic quadrangle, a hundred and feventy-two feet in length, and a hundred and fifty>fi pofed to be innocent, the ftudents retired ihencc to Reading in Berkfliire, (he city of Salifbury, Maidftone in Kent, Cambridge, and other places. By thii de- fertion, the town was in a fljort time fo much impo- veriOied, that it fent deputies to the pope's legate at Weftminfter, who begged pardon upon their knees, and fubmitted to public penance; upon which the ftudents, after four or five years abfence, returned. The fame laws and cuftoms which obtained in Lon« don, were granted by ancient charters to this city. Its inhabitants were toll-free all over England ; and it was frequently honoured with the prefence of the Englifh fovereigns, who often afiembled parliaments at this place. The earlieft accounts of the univerfity of Oxford are equally doubtful with thufe of the city. The faunda< tion of the former, as well as of the latter, are by fome referred to the Britiih king Memprick, above mentioned ; by others to Arviragut, who reigned in time of the em{.eror Domitian ; and by a third clafs of antiquaries, to king Vortigern. There is reafon to conclude that this univerfity was founded foon af« ter the eftablifliment of the Chriftian religion in Eng- land i for in the papal confirmation of it, under the pontificate of Martir. II. in the fixth century, it is ftyled an ancient univerfity. Its hiftory, however, is extremely imperfe£l, till the reign of Alfred, who is therefore generally confidered, if not as the founder, at leaft as the great reftorer of learning at Oxford. When this celebrated prince afcended the throne, fuch was the ftate of literature among his fubjedls, that few perfons could read Englifli, and hardly one prieft ia the kingdom underftood Latin. To remedy this in- convenience, he invited men of learning from all parts to fettle at Oxf jrd, the moft eminsnt of whom were GrimbaJd, and John the monk. The magiftracy of Oxford is fubjefled to the chan- cellor, or vice-chancellor of the univerfity, in all af- fairs of moment, even relative to the city. The vice- chancellor annually adminifters an oath to the magi- ftrates and flierifTs, that they will maintain the privi- leges of the univerfity { and on the loth of February, every year, the mayor, and Cxty-two of the chief citizens, folemnly pay each one penny, at St. Mary's church, in commemoration of a great fine laid upon the city in the reign of Edward lU. when fixty.two of the ftudents were murdered by the citizens, Henley upon Thames, fo called for diftin^lion, ftands at the diftance of thirty- five miles from Lon- don, and is reputed the oldeft town in the county. The inhabitants are chiefly maltfters, raealmen, and bargemen, who carry on a great trade to London, in their refpeflive commodities of meal, malt, and wood. Over the Thames is a wooden bridge at this place, where, it is faid, there wu anciently one of (lone. Watliiigton I 400 H MODERN [Europe. II Watlington is diftant forty-three miles from Lon I (lull, and has a good naricet-houfe, with a free gram- Aur-fchool. Thame, or Tame, is fo called from the river Thames, on the eaft bank of which it Hand*, at the diftance of forty-five miles from London. It is faid to have been a borough in the time of the Danes, and is now a large town, confiftin; of one great ftreet. In the middle of which is a fpacious market-place. Here is a fine church, and a free fchool, the mafler of which is nominated by the warden and fcholars of New college in Oxford. Iflip 'S diftant from London fifty-feven miles, and has ~ good market for fheep. This being the place where Edward the Confeflbr was born, the font in which he was baptized remained here till lately, when being put to indecent ufes, it was taken (Way by a gentleman in the neighbourhood. \ Bicefter, Bifcefter, or Burcefter, lies fifty^two miles from London, and is a large draggling town, with a church, a meeting- houfe, and a charity- fchool for thirty boys, 1'his place is remarkable for excellent malt liquor. Woodftock is fixty miles from London, and is faid to have been a royal palace in the days of Ethelred. Here Alfred tranllated Btttiut dt Cmfilat'tu Pbilt-^ ftpbitt i and here Henry II. built a labyrinth, with an apartment in it called Rofamond's Bower, to fe- crete his concubine, Rofamond Clifford, froflk Elea^ nor his queen. There now remains no veili|^ cither of the palace or labyrinth. Near the town is a park, called Wood(h>ck park, which was walled round by Henry I, and is did to be the firft park that was inclofed in England. It gene- rally contains a great number of deer. The honour and manor of the town and hundred of Woo wards bifhop of Chichefter. The duke's defcendents are obliged, by tyay of ho- mage, for the tenure of this manor, to prefcnt an- nually a ftandard in Windfor caftle, on the ad of Auguft, the anniverfary of the battle of Blenheim. At Stonesfield, about two miles north-weft of Woodftock, • large teflelaied Roman pavement was difcovered, in 1713, confifting of fmall fquare ftonet and bricks, of different colours, ftrongly cemented ; and near Great Tew, fouth-weft of Deddington, an- other Roman pavement has been found, confifting of red, white.- blue, and yellow cubical pieces, difpofed in fuch a manner as to form a variety of beautiful fi- gures. At Wood-Eaton, on the river Charwel, about four miles north from Oxford, were found feveral Britifh coins of Cunobeline, who reigned in this part of thtf Iflttid fo carlf a* the time of our Saviour's birth. On one fide wat the figure of • borfe, With that of an ear of edrn above it, anil under it the letten cuno, for Cunobeline. On the reverfe was alfo the figure of aa ear of corn, with the letters camu, foi C:?!**'xlunum, the ancient name of Maldeu in Eflbx, where, dcubt- leli^ tho coins were firuck. Bwaptoii ilands upon a ffflall river that runs Into tht Thamet, at the diftaiice of fixty-fix miles front London. Htre it a charity- fchool for twenty thildren, with a trtde fuperior to that tff any other place in England in letther j^tkets, gloves, bncchei, and Aockiogtk which are bronght hither in great qoanti- i)t6» from IVitncy, and other neighbouring places, and bought up for the pcafants of BerUhire, Wiltfliire, and Dorlitfliire. Witney, or Whitney, is diftant from London fixty three miles, and confifts of one ftreet, about a mile long. It is a populous town, and has a great manu- faAory of rugs and blankets. The blankets are com- monly from ten to twelve quarters wide, and are pre- ferred to all others for their whitenefs. A hundred looms are almoft conftantly employed in this manu- faAute. Each of thefe employs eight hands j and it is computed that no lefs than three thoufand perfons are buGed in carding and fpinning. Here is alfo a confiderable ]manufa£lure of duffils, a yard and three quarters wide, which were formerly much ex- ported to Virginia and New England, for cloathing tha American Indians, and are now much ufed in Gieat Britain fur winter wear. Cuts for hammocks, and tilt- cloths for bargemen, are likewife made in this town ; and here are a great many fell-mongers, who drefs and ftain flieep (kins, manufa£iuring them afterwards into breeches and jackets, which they fell at Bampton. Witney hat a free-fchool, founded and endowed by Mr. Henry Box, a druggift in London, with a fine library adjoining to it. The members of the Grocers company in London are governors of this fchool^ and thofe of Oriel college in Oxford arc vlfitors. Burford is diftant eighty-five miles from London, and has a great market for faJilles, A cuftoni for- merly prevailed here, of carrying an artificial dragon about the llrcets on Midfummer eve, in allufion to a certain banner, containing that device, which was taken by Cuthrcd a Weft- Saxon prince, from Etiiel- bald, View of the Citv of JE RUSALEM. ■ town or grtar ■nnquliy, ana appears to liive flou- riflied under the Komani, Coins of the fame kind are alfo frequently dug up at Chipping.Norton $ and a pot full of them was, not many years ago, difcovered at Thame. Near Banbury is dug up, in great plenty, the fof- fil commonly called pyrite aurae, or the golden fire- ilone. In the time of the Romans, this county was in- habited by the Dobuni. Ikenild-Areet, one of the four great Roman ways in England, enters Oxfordfliire out of Bucklnghamfliire, at a village called Chinner, fouth^^aft of Thame ; and running fouth-weft, pafles the river Thames, in- to Berkfliire, at Goring, about half way between Reading and Wallingford, two market-towns of that county. Akeman-ftrcet, a Roman confular way, that derives its name from Akrman-cafter, the ancient name of the city of Bath in Sumerfetfliire, to which it leads, and where it terminates, enters the county of Oxford from Buckinghamfliirc, near Biceftcr, whence running fouth-weft, through Woodftock park, and croffing the rivers Charwel, Evcnfadc, and Wiiidrulh, with feveral other left confidcrabl* ftr.ams, it enters Gloucefter- fliire fouth-weft of Burford. No. 34. tea, callsd the Briftol channel. The tide flows up the Severn as far as Tewkeftury, which is near feVeniy miles from the fea. The Wye rifes within half a mile of the fource of the Severn, and running fouth-eaft, feparatcs Radnor, fliire and Brecknockfliire, two counties in Wales, from each other j whence pafling through Hereford, fhire, and parting Montgomeryfliire from Gloucefter- fliire, it falls into the Severn near Chepftow, a market* town of Munmouthfliire. The Stroud rifes a little eaftward of Painfwick, a market-town, and running towards the weft, falls into the Severn about five miles fouth of the city of Gloucefter. The water of this river is remarkably clear, and excels others in fixing the colours mixed with it, for dying broad cloth, fcarlet, or any grain colour. For this reafon feveral clothiers have fettled along the banks, for twenty miles togethrr, and have ereded a vaft number of fulling-mills upon it. No part of this river was navigable till the year 1730, when it was made fo by »& of parliament, from Stroud to its conflux with the Severn. One of the rivers Avon rifes in Northamptonflitrrt whence running through Warwickfliire, and feparat- ing Gloucefterfliire from Worcefterfliire, it fills into the Severn near Tewkefl)ury. The other Avon, dif.. S " tinguiflied >iKv. «:>..■ ^'v?*^''*'' -j:j li fl '•■vu( «(iu uiMaaM* Woodllock were fettled by parlitment, in the reign of queen Anne, on the duke of Marlborough, and hit defcendents. A palace was alfo built for him at the public expence, in a moft delightful fituation, about half a mile diftant from Woodftock ; and in commemoration of the important viAory which he gained orer the French and Bavarian forces at Blen- heim, it was called Blenheim-houfe. It was bnilt by Sir John Vanburgh, and is perhaps the moft magnifi- cent llru£lure in the kingdom. It is adorned with paint- ings and ftatues, and furniflied #ith the moft carious and coftly moveables of every kind. Some of the Bpartmcnti are hung with tapeftry, reprefenting (he duke's principal vlAoriea. There is an afcent hither from the town of Woodftock, over a bridge of one »rch, which is a hundred and ninety foot diaimeter, and cod twenty thotillind pounds. The gardens are computed to contain above a bundreo acres of land. After the duke's death, feveral additions were made to this noble villa by the duchefs, particularly a tri- umphal arch at the entrance from Woodftock, and an obelilk in the principal avenue of Woodftock park, on which is infcribed a ftiort account of the duke's viflories and character, drawn up by the late Dr. Hare, who had been his grace'* chaplain, and after- wards bifhop of Chichefter. ( monly from ten to twelve quarters wide, and are pre- ferred to all others for their whitenefs. A hundred looms are almoft conftintly employed in this manu- fa£lure. Each of thefe employs eight hands } and it is computed that no lefs than three thoufand perfons are buficd in carding and fpinning. Here is alfo a confiderable manufaAure of duffils, a yard and three quarters wide, which were formerly much ex- ported to Virginia and New England, for cloathing th« American Indhins, and are now much ufed in Great Britain for winter wear. Cuts for hammocks, and tilt- cloths for bargemen, are likewift made in this town ; and here are a great many fell-mongers, who drefs and ftain flieep (kins, maonfaAuring them afterwards into breeches and jackets, which they fell at Bampton. Witney hu a free-fchool, founded and endowed by Mr. Henry Box, a druggift in London, with a fine library adjoining to it. The members of the Grocers company in London are governors of this fchool, and thofe of Oriel college in Oxford are vifitors. Burford is diftant eighty- five miles from London, and has a great market for fadilles. A cuftoni for- merly prevailed here, of carrying an artificial dragon about the ttreets on Mldfummer eve, in allufion to a certain banner, containing that device, which was taken by Cuthrcd a Wcft-Saxon prince, from Ethel- bald, Enoland.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 401 London, :uftom for- cial dragon lufion to M, which was om Ethel* bald, bald, a Mercian prince, in a battle fought in tht neighbourhood of thii place, Daddington, or Deddington, is fixty-two miles from London. It it • town of confiderable exttnt, and fent members 10 parliament in the reign of Ed- ward I. and IIL but never fince. Cbipping-Norton is fituated feventjr-fix miles from London, and appears to have been formerly a place of great trade. This towp alfo fent members to par- lirment once in the r<.Mgn of Edward I. and twice in that of Edward IIL Here is a handfome church, built after a curious model. On a heath near the town, called Chapel-heath, there are annual horfe-races. North-weft of Chippin-Norton, upon the borders of Gloucefterfliire, there is an ancient monument, con fitting of a circle of ftones, moftly about four foot and a half high, ftanding upright. The people of the country call them Rollrich ftones, and have a vulgu tradition that they are petrified men. Some antiqca- lie* are of opinion, that they are the remains of a Biiiifli temple ) but the moft general conjeAure is, that they were intended for a memorial of the ad- vancement of Rollo, a Danifh general, to the crown of England, by his army. Banbury ftands reTcnty-feven miles from London, and is a confiderable town, with a handfome church, and two meetlng-houfes, a free-fchool, and two cha- tity-fchools, for teaching and cloathing poor chil- dren, Heie is alfo- a workhoufe { and the town is fa- mous for a particular kind of cakes, called Banbury cakes. The lands in the neighbourhood are remark- ably fertile. In fome fields near Banbury, Roman coins have been frequently ploughed up j and fcveral Roman coins and medals have been found at Dorcheftcr, which is a town of great antiquity, and appears to have flou- rifhcd under the Romans. Coins of the fame kind are alfo frequently dug up at Chipping-Norton t and a pot full of them was, not many yean ago, difcovered at Thame. Near Banbury is dug up, in great plenty, the fof- fil commonly called pyrite aurae, or the golden fire- ilone. In the time of the Romans, this county was in- habited by the Dobuni. Ikenild.ftreet, one of the four great Roman ways in England, enters Oxfordfliire out of Buckinghamfliire, at a village called Chinner, fouth-eaft of Thame ; and running fouth-weft, pafies the river Thamet, in- to Berkfliire, at Goring, about half way between Reading and Wallingford, two market- towns of that county. Akeman-ftreet, a Roman confular way, that derives its name from Akeman-cafter, the ancient name of the city of Bath in Somerfetfltire, to which it leads, and where it terminates, enters the county of Oxford from Buclcinghamfliire, near Bicefter, whence running fouth-weft, through Woodftock park, and crofting the rivers Charwel, Evenfadc, and Windrufli, with feveral other lefs confiderabia- ftreams, it enters Gloucefter- fliire fouth-weft of Burford. No. 34. Here are alfo to be feeii the remains of one of the Roman vicinal ways, or chtmini mintrn\ of Antoninus. It is now called Grimes Dike. It enters this county from Betkdiire, near Wallingford, and croffing the Thames, runs fouth-eaft { after which, croffing Icken- ild-ftreet, it again paflet the Thames, near Henley, into Berkfhire. Oxfordfliire fends to parliament nine members, vis. two for the county, two for the city of Oxford, two for the uhiverfity, two for thfe borough df Woodftock, and ohe for Banbury; GLOUCESTERSHIRE. Gloucefterfliire ii bounded on the eaft by Berk, fliire, Oxfordfliire, and Warwickfliire, on the fouth by Wiliflitre and Buckinghamfliire, bri the weft by Monmouthfliire and Herefordfliire, and on the noriH by Worcefterfliire, It meafures in length, from north- eaft to fouth-weft, about fifiy-fix niilcsi and in breadth, from fouth-eaft to north-weft, about tweiity-t#o miles. In this county are feveral large riven, the principal of which are, the Severn, the Wye, the Stroud, and the two Avons. The Severn, which \i efteemed the fecond river in England, iflues from the mbuntain of Plyn Lymmon, in the fouth-weft part of Montgomery- fliire, in Wales. By a variety of windings, it runs north-eaft, and enters Shropfliire, where, being joined by a number of fmaller ftreams, it traverfes that county and Worcefterfliire, in the diredion of fouth- eaft { it enters the county of Gioucefter at Tewkef- bury, whence running fouth-fouth-weft, by the city of Gioucefter, it falls into that part of the Wcftern fea, called the Briftoi channel. The tide flows up the Severn as far as Tewkefl>ury, which is near feVenty miles from the fea. The Wye rifes within hsif a mile of the fource of the Severn, and running fouth-eaft, feparatcs Radnor- fliire and Brecknockfliire, two counties in Wales, from each other { whence paOing through Hereford- fliire, and parting Montgomeryftiire from Gloucefter- fliire, it falls into the Severn near Chepftow, a market- town of Monmouthfliire. The StrouH rifes a little eaftward of Painfwick, a market-town, and running towards the weft, falls into the Severn about five miles fouth of the city of Gioucefter. The water of this river is remarkably clear, and excels others in fixing the colours mixed with it, for dying broad cloth, fcarlet, or any grain colour. For this reafon feveral clothiers have fettled along the banks, for twenty miles together, and have erected a vaft number of fulling-mills upon it. No part of this river was navigable till the year 1730, when it was made fo by *St of parliament, from Stroud to its conflux with the Severn. One of the rivers Avon rifes in Northamptonfliirf, whence running through Warwickfliire, and feparat- ing Gloucefterfliire from Worcefterfliire, it falls into the Severn near Tewkefl>ury. The other Avon, dif^ J H tinguiflied 402 THE MODERN [Europe. linguiflied by the name of Avon Weft, rifei not far from Tetbury, a market-town near the borderi of Wiltfhire, and fcparating (iloucefteifhir* from So- raerfetfliiie, falls into the Severn nenr tiriftol, a city in Somerfetfliire, Tbii county it generally divided into three dillri£t*. The eaftern part is called Cotefwould ( the middle part, the Vale of Gloucefter) and the triangular part, included between the Wye, the Severn, and a fmall river called the Ledon, ii named the Foreft of Dean. The air here in general is healthful, though of dif- ferent degrees of temperature, th.it of Cutcfwould, ate likewife plenty i and great quantities of filh aro fupplied by the rivers, {Ipeiially the Severn, whiih abounds with falmon, lampreys, and conger tels. This county lies in the province of Canterbury, i* a diocefe of itfelf, and contains two hundred and eighty parilltes. It is divided into thirty hundreds, and includes one city, and twenty-five market- towas. The city is Gloucelter, and the market- towns arc, Berkeley, Campden, Cheltenham, CirenceAcr, CoU ford, Urcat Dean, Durfley, Kaiiford, LechlaJe, Marihfieid, Minching-Hamptuii, Morton- in- M.irfl), Newent, Northleacb, Paiiilwick, Sudbury- Chipping, which is a hilly country, being very Oiarp, whilt, on Stanley-Leonard^ Stow-on- the- Would, Stroud, Tet the contrary, the air in the Vale is fofi and mild, even in winter. So great is the difference, it is commonly faid, that in Cotefwould eight months of the year are winter, and the other four loo cold for fummer ^ but of the Vale, that eight months are fummer, and the other four too warm for winter. Cotefwould being fo much expofed, ii not remark- able for it! fertility ; and the corn advances fo flowly, that, " As long a-coming as Cotefwould bailey," is become a proverb in the county. The hills of this part, however, afford excellent paflure, and great numbers of fheep arc fed upon ihcni, the wool pf which ia rnnarkably fine. In the Vale, the pallures are alfo very rich, and the foil exceeding fertile. The checfe, called Glou- cefier cheefe, is niadr in this part of the county, and, next to that of Chefhire, is doubtlefs the beft in England. The Foreft of Oean, which is twenty milea long, and ten broad, was formerly covered with wood, and wa* then fo much haunted by robbers, that in the reign of Henry VI. an a£l of parliament was made to fupprefs them. Since that time the woods have been much reduced, by clearing great part of the ground, where many towns and villages have been built. The oaks here are reckoned the bed in bury, Tewktibury, Thoinbury, Wickware, Winch> cqmif, and Wotlpn-under-Edge. The lity of Ulouceiler is fitunred a hundred and four miles miles well.by-norih of London, upon a pleafant bill, fecured on the well fide by a branch of the Se- vern, navigable by large (hips to the very quay, Tho town is handfumely built, and clc.-)n, well fupplied with hofpitals and market- houfcs. The cathedra) it an old and magnificent fabiic, with a tower which is reckoned one of the ncatcll and inuil curious piecvs of iirchitcfture in England. In this church are twelve chapels, adorned with the arms and monuinrncs of many great pctfoiis, and the tombs of £dward II. and of Robert duke of Normandy, fun of VVillian> the Conqueror. Over the call end of the choir there is alfo a gallery, deemed a great curiofity as a whifper- ing-place. It is of a hexagonal form, and twenty-fivc yards broad. This cathedral has beautiful cloillers,and bcloi.gWi^ to it arc a dc.in and fix prebendaries. The city of Glouceftcr was made a bifliop's fee b" Henry Vlll. but is faid to have cdjoycd this privilr'-e at early as the fifth century. In the year 1272, Ed- ward I. held here a parliament, in which were enabled fevcral ufeful laws, now called the Statutes of Glou- ceder. A parliament was alfo held here by Richard II. England ; on which account, a confiderable part of 1 and Richard III. in conllderation of his having borne this diftrifi was inclofed by an iO. of parliament paflcd in the reign of Charles II. and fome time ago, many cottages, which had been creAed in and near the woods, were ordered to be pulled down, faecaufe the inhabi- tants deftroyed the trees, by cutting or lopping them for fuel. In this part of the county are many rich mines of iron and coal, for the working of which feve- ral a£t9 of parliament have pafled ; and at Tayn- ton, a village near Newent, in the beginning of the prefent century, was difcovered a gold mine, of which a leafe was granted to refiners, who cxtraAed fome gold from the ore; but the quantity proved fo fmall, M not to anfwer the expence of working it. the title of duke of Glouccfter, before he ufurped the crown, added to the city the two adjacent hundreds of Duddon and Kin^'s-Barton. He alfo gave it his fword and cap of maintenance, and made it a county of itfelf, by the name of the county of the city of Glouccflcr. But after the Reftoratlon, the hundreds were taken away from it by »& of parliament, and the walls of the city razed, becaufe, in 1643, it had (hut its gates againft Charles L who befieged it. Before that fiege it had eleven parifli churches, fix of which were then demoliflied, and five, with the cathedral, yet remain. Heie is a good ftone bridge over (he river, with a quay, wharf, and a cuftom-houfc } and under the bridge is a machine which fupplies the whole place The king has here a fwanimote court, as in all { with water. The trail-' of this city was formerly con- royal forefts, to preferve the vert and venifon ; and of this the judges are the verdurcrs, who are chofen by the freeholders of the county. The miners have ,alfo a court, in which the prefiding officer is a fteward, appointed by the conftable of the foreft. This county abounds with grain, cattle, fowl, and game. Bacon and cyder, each excellent in its kind, i'lderablc, but has greaily declined finre Briftol became fo flourifltiog. At prefent, one of its chief manufac- tures is pin-making. Glouccfter was a Roman colony, called Colonia Glocum, and was governed by a conful. The Saxons got pofleflion of it about the year 570, at which time it bec\nie a part of the kii, which has been preferved to this day with much care. Many medals and urns are frequently dug up about this town i and in the adjoining fields there are feve- rai barrows, fuppofed to have been raifed over fome conflderable perfons who have been flain here ir battle, though hiflory mentions no aflion to which we can iifcribe the event. Northluck, or Northleche, fo called from its fitua- tion on the river Leche, ftands about eighty mites from London. It has a neat church, with feveral alms- houfes, and a good grammar-fchool, which is free to all the boys of the town, and endowed with eighty pounds a year, by Hugh Weftwold, Efq, who being afterwards reduced, is faid to have folicitcd the truftees to be mafter of it, but was denied. By a decree of chancery, In the reign of James I. this fchool was fettled on Queen's college, Oxford. Stow-on-the> Would, called in all records Stow St, Edward, is fevcncy-feven miles diftant from London. It ftands fo high, and it fo much expofed to the winds, that the inhabitants are faid to have but one element, air, there being neither wood, common, field, nor water belonging to the town. It has a church, which is a large building, with a high rawer, and con- tains feveral monuments. It has alfo a free-fchool, and feveral charitable inftitutlons, the poor here being very numerous. The fairs of this town are famous for hnps, checfc, and efpecially (heep. Morton-in-M.irih is diflint from London eighty- three miles, and contains nothing remarkable. Campden, or Camden, is fituated on the borders of VVorcefterfhire, at the dillance of ei;^hty-feve 1 miles from London. In the church are fome very fine marble monuments, the moft fumptuous of which is fupported by twelve pillars, and was creAed in memory of Sir liaptift Hicks, vifcount Camden, who erefled an alms- boufe for fix poor men, with an equal member of wo- men, and rebuilt the market-place. Here are alfo two charity- fchools, one for cloathing thirty girls, and teaching them to read, knit, and fpin ; the other is for teaching twenty-four poor children to read. Here is likcwife a grammar-fihool, endowed with (Ixly pounds a year. This town is famous for the manufailure of flockings, Wincheomb is 'diftant from London eighty.feven miles. It was anciently a county or (hrriffdom of it- felf, and was a borough in the reign of Edward the Ccnfcfliir, Here is an alms-houfe for twelve poor wo- men. The inhabitants of this town planted tobacco to a very good account, till they were reftrained in the reign of Charles II, after which the town gradually decayed, and it now inconfiderable, Cheltenham it diltant from London ninety- five miles, and takes its name from being fituated on a brook called the Chelt, which falls into the Severn. Here is a charity-fchool, and an hofpital, founded in 1578, for fix poor perfons, of which the members of Jefus college in Oxford are governors. This town carries on a confiderable trade in malt; and it now much frequented on account of its mineral waters, which arc purgative and diuretic. Tewkefbury isdiftant from London ninety-fix miles, being fituated at the conflux of the Severn with the Avon, thofc two rivert, with the fmaller ftreamt of the Carron and the Swellgatc, almoft furrounding the town. This is a large, beautiful, and poputoui place, confiding of three well-built ftrceti, and many lanes. It has a bridge over three of the four rivers that run by it, and a church which is one of the largeft in England, that it neither collegiate nor cathedral. This building is adorned with a ftately tower, and fe- pulchral monuments, particularly thofe of feveral of the earls of Gloucefter and Warwick, prince Fdw 'rd, fon of Henry VI, and the duke of Clarence, bro '.er to Edward IV. Here is a free-fchool, a:id an hofpiti,!. endowed with forty pounds a year, by the late queen Mary, to be paid out of the exchequer, for the main- tainance of thirteen poor perfons, and a reader. The chief manufadlure here it woollen cloth, and (dock- ings ; but the town has long been famous for muf- tard balls, which are fent in great quantities into other parts. An adjacent piece of ground, called the Ham, is a courfe fo,- horfe-races. Cirencefter, commonly called Cicefter, (lands at the didance of eighty-five miles from London, and de- rives its name from having been a Cf/ltr, or cafile, upon a fmall river cilled the Churn, which falls into the Thames at Cricklade, a borough-town of Wilt- (hire. It is divided into feven wards, and by fome thought to be the oldeft, and to have been formerly the largell town in the county. It had once three pa- rifli churches, but at prefent has only one, in which are twenty-eight windows of painted glafs, rcprefent- ing fcripture and ecclefiadical hiftory. Here is a free- fchool, and a charity-fchool for about ninety children, with feveral hofpitals and alms-houfes. In this town is one of the greated markets in the kingdom fi ; woul and woollen manufactures. Cirencefter was a town of eminence in the time of the Romans, as appears from many Roman antiquities that have been difcovered in and near this place, par- ticularly feveral pillars and pavements, fuppofed to have belonged to a temple and bath. I: is thought to ■i^4 H MODE N (EOROPE. bfl ibt Corinium mentioned by Pcolcinjr, and iht Du- rocornovium of Antoninui. At ihii pUec two Roman confular wayi croh each other, on* of which i* ftill confpicuou* bjr a high ridge, eaundlng u far ai Bird* lip hilU, fouth of Chclttnbam, ai:d the other may bt traced to Criclilade in VVilifltirt. Stroud ftanda ninety-three milei from London, upon t hill, at the foot of which runi the Wiiler that givei name to th« town. It bat a handfeme church, a fpe«- fehool, a charity-fchool, and a workhoufe. Painfwick it plaafantly fiiuatcd in the bcft air in the county, at the ditlancc of ninety-four milet from London. It hu a large handfome church, with a neat fpire, a charity-fchool, and • manufaAure of broad clotb. Mincing-Hampton !i diftant from London ninety milei, and ii remarkable only for a large church, built in the form of a crofi. Thii town took U* name from an order of nuni at Caen in Normandy, called Minchingi, to whom it formerly belonged. Ncwent is fiiuaied on a fmall river, navigable by boati, In the Foreft of Dean, at the diftanee of a hun- dred and four mile* from London. It hai a handfome church, three almi-houfei, and two charity-fchool*. Stanley- Leonard, fo called from having been a priory dedicated to St, Leonard, ii fituated ninety-five milei from London, and befide* a charity-fchool, has nothing worthy of note. Tetbury is Ctuated in a healthful air, ninety-three miles from London. It is a well-built, populous town, and fiands on a rifing-ground y but water is here fo fcarce in fome dry fummert, as to be fold for one fliilling and fix pence a hogfhead. Here is a handfome church, with a free-fchool, and an alms-houfe for eight poor perfons. In the middle of the town is a large markct-boufe, for the convenience of the yarn trade, which is the ftaple of the place. There is alfo a fmall maiket-houfe for cheefe, bacon, and other com- moditiest This town wa» ancientry fortified by a caflle, faid to have been built by a king of the Britoas^ above two thoufand years ago j but the ruins of it are now hardly vifible. At Kingfoot, in the neighbourhood of Tetbury, it has been common, after a fbower of rain, to find in the fields Roman coins, which the people call cherle- money ; and not far hence are to be fcen the traces of a large camp, now called Bury-hill. Bevcrftone-caftle, about a mile north-eafl of Tet- bury, was built in the reign of Edward III. by Tho- mas earl of Berlceley, out of the ranfom of the pri- foners he took at the battle of Poidiers, under the Black Prince. Durlley is diftant from London ninety-feven miles, and is remarkable only for a maaufsdure of woollen cloth. Wotton-under-Edge ftands on a pleafant and fruit- ful eminence, at the diftanee of ninety- nine milea from London. It is a handfome town, and has a fuit- able church, containing feveral monuments of the fa- mily of Berkeley. Here is a free-fchool, with an alms- houfe for fix poor men, and the fame number at wo- men. Berkeley is diAant from London a hundred and el«< ven miles, and has a largc» handfome church, with a charity-fchool. Here is alfo a cattle, where Edward II. was imprifoncd. The room in which be was confined i* ftill to be feen. The manor of this town is called, in old records, the Honor of Berkeley, and is one of the largcft in England, moft of the towns in Kerkefey hundred, and many other places in the county, to tbo extent of near thirty parifhes, depending upon it. Th« lands held of it are reckoned to be worth thirty thou- fand pounds a yrar. Wickware is diftant from London a hundred and one miles, and is a very ancient corporation-. Tb« town is well watered by two brooks» over one of which is a handfome ftone bridge. It has a frrv- fchool, aad the neighbourhood affords it plenty of coal. SedburyChipping lies a hundred and three mifea from London, and is likewife an ancient borough. Here is a fpacious church, though it is only a chapel of eafe to Old Sedbury, a village in the neighbour- hood. Here ia alfu a free fchooI, and the greatcil checfe-market in England, except Atherffon oit the Stour, a market-town of Warwickfliire. This place being a great thoroughfare in the road from Briftol tv Cirencefter and Oxfordfliire, ia well provided with comuMdious inns. Thornbury is fituated two miles from the eaftem bank of the Severn, on a fmall ftream which rune into that river, and at the diftanee of a hundred and fix mifes from London. The church, which is in th« form of a cathedral, is large, and has fpacious ailes on each fide, with a crofs, and a beautiful high tower at the weft end. Here arc four fmall alms-houfcs, and a free-fchool. In the civil wars this town was fortified for king Charles I. as a check upon the garrifon of Gloucefter. Here are ftill to be fcen the foundations of a mag- nificent caflle, begun, but never finifhed, by Edward duke of Buckingham, who wu beheaded in the reiga of Henry VIII. Oldbury, upon the river Severn, and near Thorn- bury, was a Roman flhtion' i and according to Anto- ninus, the trajejkut, or paflage over the Severn, was ai this place. Here are tiro large Roman camps j and at Alvefton, a little diffant, is a large round camp, on the edge of a hill, whence ther^ is a noble profpeft of the Severn. Near the camp is a Iwge barrow, in which were found feveral ftone coffins, conuining bones. At a place called Caftlehill, in the neighbour- hood, is yet to be feen another camp, of an oblong fquare, with a fingle ditch. Marlhfield is fituated at the diftanee of a hundred and three miles from London, in the road to Briftol, and on the borders of Wiltfliire. It confifts chiefly of one ftreet of old buildings, almoft a mile in length. It has a large church, and alms-houfe, with a chapel belonging to it, well endowed, for eight perfons. Here ia alfo a charity-fchool, maintaiaid by the lord of the manor. Enolano.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. minor. Thii town carriat on i confiJerablt trade in cloth and mall, and ii famoui for ita cakei. The ancient inhabitaiiit of Ihii cc .ty, ai well a« thofe of Oxfordfliire, were named by the Romani, Dobuni. I'he people of Gloucefterfhire have a pro- verb, " The father to the bough, the Ton to the •• plough i" alluding to the ancient privilege, by which the eftate of a father, though a felon, defcended to the fon. This privilege was confirmed to them by a (latute in the reign of Kdward II. but hai not been claimed for many yean. I'he cuftom called Borough Englilh dill remaini in many parti of thii county. There ia aUo a cuHom at the minera court, in the Foreft of Di'ai), for a miner who givei teftimony ai • witnefi, to wear a particular fort of cap { and that he may not defile holy writ with unclean handt, when the oath ii adminiHering to him, he touchei the Bible with a flick. The principal manufaflure of this county Is wool- len cloth. Before our wool began to be clandeftinely exported to France, it wai computed that fifty ihou- frtiid pieces of cloth were made here annually, which being t'llimated at ten pounds a-picce, the fine with ihr coarfe, amounts to five hundred thoufand pounds. Gluucellcrfhire fends eight mcmberi to parliament, viz. two for the county, two for the city of Glou- ctfler, and two for each of the boroughs of Circncef- icr and Tewlcefbury. CHAP. viir. Mlitmtulhjhirt, Htrtfordjhirt, lyirM/lirJbin, and IFar- wickfiirt "jV/T O N V! O U T H S H I R E is bounded on the eaft ^ *■ by (Jlouceflerfhire, on the fouth by the river Severn, On the weft by the two counties of Brecknock and Glamorgan, in Wales, and on the north by Hcre- fnrdfhire. Its length, fr north to fouth, is twenty- nine miles, and its breaam twenty. This county is well- watered with fine rivers, the principal of which are, the Severn, the Wye, the My- now, the Rumney, and the Ufk. The two former have been already defcribed in treating of the county of Glouceder. The Mynow, Mynwy, or Monow, rifes in Brecknockfhire, whence running fouth-eafl, and dividing this county from Hereford, it falls into the river Wye at the town of Monmouth. The Rumney rifes alfo in Brecknockfhire, where running fouth- cafl, and dividing this county from Glamorganfhire, it falls into the Severn. The U(k rifes likewife in Brecknockfhire, whence running in the fame direction as the preceding, and dividing Monmouthfhire into two almoU equal parts, it difcharges itfcif into the Severn near Newport, The air of Monmouthfhire Is temperate and healthy, and the foil fruitful. The eaftern parti are Woody, and the weftern mountainous. The valleys produce plenty of hay and corn,- and the hills feed No. 34. cattle, fhecp, and go.iti. Here is abundance of coalii and the riven afTorJ ."almon, trout, and other fifh. Monmouihftiire lies in the province of Canterbury, and diocefe of LandafT, and has a hundred and twen> ty-feven parifhei. It ii divided into fix hundreds, t^nd contain! feven markei-iowiis. Thnfc are, Aberga- venny, Caerleon, Cliepllow, Monmouth, Newport, Pontipole, and Ufk. Chepftow flands at thf diltance of a hundred and thirty-one miles from f.umlon, near the mouth of the Wye. It is a large, well-built, populous town, walled round, and is fituated on a hill, clofe to the river, having feveral fields and orchardi within the walls. Here is a fine bridge over the Wye, no lefs than feveniy foot high from the furface of the water, when the tide ii out. As this bridge is reckoned to ftand partly in Glouceflerfhire, it is kept in repair at the expence of both counties. Chepflow is the port for all towns that ftand upon the rivers Wye and Lug : fliips of burden may come up to it, and the tide runs in with great ra- pidity, rifing commonly fix fathom, or fix and a half, at the bridge. This wafi formerly a place of great eminence, and much frequented. It had once a caflle, and is thought to have arifen from the ruini of ail ancient Roman city, called Venta Silurum, at the dlf- tance of four miles hence. The ruins of Vent* Silu« rum are ftill about a mile in compafi ; and here, id t J89, three beautiful Roman pavements were difco- vered, with feveral coins, and other antiquities, Monmouth ilandi a hundred and twenty-feven milet from London, between the riven Monow and Wye, over each of which it has a bridge, and a third over t fmall river called the Trothy, which falls into the Wye almoft clofe to the mouth of the Monow. Tbit is a large, handfome town, and has been confiderable ever fince the Conqueft. It had a caflle, which was a ftatcly edifice, but now lies in ruins. The church is a fine building, and the call end of it, in particu- lar, is much admired. The chief trade of the town is with Briflol, by the communication of the Wye witH the Severn. Ufk Hands upon the river of the fame name, at the dillance of a hundred and thirty miles from London, but contains nothing worthy of notice. Abergavenny takes its name from the Gavenny, t fmall river, which at this town falls into the Uflc. It is fituated a hundred and forty-two miles from Lon« don, and is a large, populous, and flourilhing town. It once had acaftle, and it ftill furrounded by a Walt. Here Is a fine bridge over the Ufk, conlifting of fifteen arches. This town is a great thoroughfare from the wefteril parts of Wales to Briflol, Bath, Gloucefter, and other places, and is therefore welUfurnifhed with accommo* dation for travellers. It carries on a confiderable trade iii flannels, which are br6ught hither from the ma- nufafloriea in other parts of the county, to fell. Abergavenny appiiars to have been the Gebannium of Antoninus, and the town of Ufk his Burrium, Caerleon, Which, irt the ancient Britifh language, it faid to fignify tht Town ofthi Ltghti, was fo named^ ^rom its having been the ftation of the Ltgit SicuniUt 1 1 Britannica, 4<»6 T II E M O D L K (EuROPt. ihf diftinc* of a hundred tnd fortjr-on* mild from London, upon iht river Utk, over which ii • wooden bridge. In ihe lime of the Briioni, ic wm » fbrc of itniveriiljri and an arilibifhop'i frai \ and king Arthur it faid to have held hit court here. Under the Ro- man! it wat elegantly >iuili, and rurroumied by a brick wall, about three miln in compart. UeofFrey uf Mon- mouth relaiei, that in hit time there were many re- main! of the ancient fplcnJor of thia city, fuch at (lately palacei, high loweri, ruini of templet, thcaitci, bathi, aquedufli, He. Thii place ii the Ifca of An- toninu!, and fcvcral Roman aniiquitiei have been found In the neighbourhood. Newport (lands upon the Ulk, between the mouth of that river and CaerUon, at the diliance of a hun- dred and fifty-one milei from London. It is a confi- derable town, with a good haven, and a fine (lone bridge over the river. Poiitipola, or Punty-pool, (land* a hundred and thirty- fix milet from London, and ia a fmall town, re- markable only for fomc iron milU. In Ihe time of the Roman!, thi! county wai occu- pied by the Silurei. The inhabiiantt were ifierwardi much barafTed by the lordi of the marchei, to whom the king! of England granted all Ihe landi which they could conquer from thi> people. Monmouthfhire wa! confidered at a part of VValei, till towardi the end of the reign of Charlei II. when the judgra be- gan to keep the aifixea here for the Oxford circuit. The principal manufaAurc here ia flannel i and thii county fenda three member! to parliament, viz. two knighu of the (hire, and one member for Monmouth, the county -town. HEREFORDSHIRE. HercfordDiire ia bounded on the feuth by Mon> moutbfliire, on the weft by the Welch countiea, Brecknockfhire and Radnorfhire, on the north by Shropfltire, and on the eail by Gloxcefterfhire and Worcefterihire. It ia almoft of a circular form, mea- furing thi;ty-five milea from north to fouih, and thirty milea from call to weft. The principal riven are the Wye, the Monow, and the Lug t tl>« two former of which have already been defcribed. The Lug rifea in the north-eaftof Radnor- fliire, and rune eaftward, by feveral windings, through Herefordfttire, to Leominfter, whence direfling iu courfe fouth-eaft, after having been joined by feveral fmaller rivera, it falla into the Wye, near Hereford. The air of tbia county it pure, and confequenily falubtioui, particularly between the riven Wye and Severn ; which haa given rife to a proverb very com- mon among the inhabitant! of tbia county, <• Bleflfed « i! the eye between the Severn and the Wye." The foil of Herefordlhire i! extremely fertile, yielding fine pafture, and great quantitiea of corn. It i! alfo well- ftocked with wood ; and fome kinds of apples, parti- cularly redftreaks, thrive better here than in any other county. They abound in li.e hcj^ci along the high- wayi, and the hojji gmw fit by fredmK o" ll>e windfallt, which give a rcdilKh colour and fweciifli tafte to their flcfh. Thofe applri atinrd alfo great quantiiiei of cyder, which ii (he common drink all over the county. Thii dillriw't abound, with fpringi of frcfh water, and the riven wiih plenty of fi(h. This county lies in the province ut Cunterburv, . and diocefe of HerefurJ, and iniludei a hundrtd anU fevcniy fix paiilhei. It ii divided into eleven hun- drcdi, and contains one city, .-iiiii icveu market-towns. The city it Hereford, and the m^irkct-iowna ar« Bromyard, Kington, I.edbiiry, Leotniiiltcr, Pembridge, RolTe, and Weobley. Hereford it fituated on the river Wye, a hundred and thirty-three miles wed uf London. It is about • mile and a half in circumference : the houfes are old, the ftreett dirty, anl the inhabitintt few. The cathedral, however, it a beautiful and magnificent flru£lure, adorned with the munumenis of fweral of its ancient prelates. The billiop hit a palace called the Caftle, and (he other digniurict have houfcs in a place named the Clole. UcfiJet the cathedral, there are four parifh-churchri ; the number wat formerly fix, but two of them were dc'lioyed during the civil wars in the la(l century. Here is an hofpital, founded in the reign of qiMta Elisabeth, and well endowed, for twelve poor men i with two charity-fchools, one for fixiy boys, the other for forty girls, who ate nil tauj^hi and cloathed bjr fubfcription. Hereford Is thought by fome to have been founded by Edward the Elder, though others fuppofe that ic became canfpicuous :.Sout the year 825, in confer quence of a church being ere£led here by Milfrid king of the Mercians, to the memory of Ethelbert, king of the Eaft Angles, who wat murdered by the queen of king OITa, while he wu courting their daughter. Hereford was foon afterward! made the fee of a biihop } but in the time of Edward the Confcflbr, Uriflin, prince of South Wales, facked the city, dcflroycd the cathedral, and carried the bifhop away prifoner. At the Norman invafion, therefore, the city lay almoft in luins t but the Conqueror rebuilt both it and the ca« thedraJ, and ereAed a caftle, which is faid to ha«e been the largeft and ftrongeft in England, Lcland, who lived before ita demolition, informs ui, that it waa fur- rounded by two walli, each of which waa encompafiisd with water, part being a river, and part a ditch : the donjon wa! high, and extremely well fortified, hav- ing ten femicircular towera in the outer wall, and one very large tower in the inner. Renchefter, four milea north-weft of Hereford, ii thought to be the ancient Ariconium ( about a mile from which, at Credon-hill, ia a very large camp, ftrongly fortified with a double ditch, and occupying not lefs than forty acres of ground. At Eaton-wall, • village upon the Wye, two mile* from Hrreford, are the velligei of another camp, with fingle works, likewife including near forty acre*. Upon Compillu bill, new Brockhifflpton, a ril- England.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 4of lt|« lying (outK-Mft of Hfftford, ii • Uni fqutrt cimp, ctlltd Wobury, doubl«>ir«ncbfd, and niir hiU • mil* long, but narrow. At Sution'-Walltyi, t river Lug« north of Htrefurd, arc tlill to b« ik... ,. ..« rtinaini of UlTa'i palace. On tha border! of BhropOtirc there ii a Roman camp, ftill entire, called Brandon, It connOi uf a Tingle trench, of a fquarc form, with fuur pom, near which are two barrowi. Half a mile hence, at Bird- ficld, on the fide of a fmall ftream, wai a Briii(h camp, now covered with great oaki, and named Coxal Rude ftandi upon the river Wye, at the diftance of a hundred and fevcnieen milea from London. It ii a populous, « til-built town, confifting chiefly of two flrceti, about half a mile long, crofling each other in the middle. Here are two charity-fchoolt, one for thirty boyi, and the other for twenty girli, who arc enught and cloaihed by fubfcription. Camden fayi, that in hii time, ihii town had a confiderable manu- faAure of iron wares. At prefent it ii famoui for cy- der, and it much frequented on account of ita mar- kett and fain, which ate well ftorcd with cattle, and other provifioni, Ledbury ii fiiuated a hundred and eighteen miles from London, at the fuuth end of a ridge of moun- uini, called Malvcrn-hilli, on the caft fide of the county. It ii a welUbuilt town, inhabited chieBy by clothieri, and hai an hofpitat, liberally endowed, be- fidea a charity-fchool for twenty-three poor children. Bromyard ftandt at the diftancc of a hundred and twenty-four milai from London, near > river called the Fromet in a country full of orchardi. It it a fmall town, and contains nothing worthy of note. . Leominfter, or Lemfter, is diflant from London » hundred and thirty-fix miles. It it a large, handfome, populous town, with feveral bridges over ibe river Lug, and is a great thoroughfare between South Wales and London. Many horfes and black cattle are fold at the fairs of this town t as are alfo the beft Aax, wheat, and barley in England. The wool brought to this market has been reckoned the beft in Europe, except that of Apulia and Tarentum, and was defervedly called Lemfter ore, becaufe it enriched the town. By an alteration of the market-days, a great part of the profits arifing from this commodity has been for feveral years transferred to Hereford and Worcef- ler I but Lemfter ftill carries on a confiderable trade in this article, as well as in gloves, leather, and hats ; having many mills, and other machines, conftantly working on the rivets that flow through the valley on which it ftands. In a park, on the north-weft o. Leominfter, is a large camp, with two ditches, called the Ambry { and aa a hill in the neighbourhood are the ruins of a pa- lace. Bow called Comfor-caftle, Perobridge is fituated upon the river Arrow, at the diftance of a hundred and thirty miles from London. It is > fmall town, but has a manufaAure of woollen cloth. Weobley, or Webley, ftands at the diftance of a hundred and thirty miles from London. Here arc (wo chariiy>fchooli, fupported by fubfcripiiun, one for iwenty-Kve boys, and the other for g'lli. Kington, or Kyiieion, is fituated upon a fmall rivet called the Arrow, a hundred and forty-fi» miles from London. It it a large, well-built, old town, inha- bited chiefly by clothiers, who carry on a confider- able trade in narrow clotht. It hat ■ freefchool and a charity-fchool, and itt market is one of the moft confider«ble in the county. This county, as well as Monmouthftiire, to which may be added Kadnorfliire, Brecknoclrfhire, and OU- morganfliirt, in Wales, was anciently inhabited by the Silures, It remained under the jurifdiAion of the Briiona for feveral ages after (ha Saxons came into the iflanJ, but was at left fubdued by a king of Mer- cia, who annexed it to his own dominions. It was at- tcrwardt muchexpofed to the incUrfionsof the Welch i to fecare it againft whom, the Merrian king, Oft'ti made a jruad ditc' , a hundred miles in length, called Oft'a't ditch, fome traces of which are ftill vifible. This county was alfo fortified with no lefs than twcn* ty-eight ctltlet, but the moft of them ate now demo« liftied. Herefordfhire fcnJs to parliament eight members, vis. two for the county, two for the city of Hereford, and two for each of the boroughs of Leominfter and Weobley. WORCESTERSHIRE. Worcefterftiire is bounded on the weft by Hereford* fhire, on the north by StafTordfliire, on the eaft by Warwickfliire, and on the fouth by Gloucefierfhire. It it of a triangular form, extending in length thirty, fix miles, and in breadth about twenty-eight. The chief rivers of this county are, the Severn, th« Avon, the Stour, and the Teme. The Severn and Avon have been already defcribed. The Stour rifea in the northern extremity of Worcefterfliire, not far from Stourbridge, whence running fouth-weft, it pafles by Kidderminfter, and falls into the Severn near Bewdley. The Teme, or Temd, rifes in the north part of Radnorfhire, and, running eaftward, feparatei Shropfhire from the counties of Radnor, Hereford, and Worcefter, after which it difcharges itfelf into the Severn near the city of Worcefter. The left confiderable rivert are, the Ree, the Ar. row, the Bow, the Salwarp, and the Swiltate. The air of thit county it healthy, and the foil rich, both in tillage and pafture t the hills being covered with flockt of flieep, and the valleyt abounding in corn, or difplaying a luxuriance in meadowt. Here it a remarkably rich valley, called the Vale of Efam, or Evafliam, from Evefliam, a borough-town, which it fituated in the middle of it, Tbia vale mm along the bankt of the river Avon, from Tewkefl>ury in Gloucefterihire, to Stratford-upon-Avon in War< wickfiiire. It aboundt with the fineft corn, and pa- fture for (heep, and it juftly reckoned the granary of thofe partt. Hepi,too,are much cultivated in thit coun- ty i which alfo yields great quantitici of all fora of fruit, particulatl/ 4o8 H MODE N [Europe. ii! I particularly pern. With thefe the hedges every where abound, and vaft quantitiei of perry are annu- ally made of them. The river* here afford plenty of fifli, and the Severn it remarkable for lampreys. In this county are many brine pits and fait fp?ings. At Droitwich, where the latter are ;::^%:^>ne co- pious, fc mui'' fait is annually made, that the taxe paid for this article, at the rate of threr, Ibillings :.id fix pence a buihel, amount, .'t is f-.id, to no lefs than fifty thoufand pouRj;>. This county is in the province of Canterbury, and diocefe of Wurcefter, and contains a hundred and fifty-two patifhes. It is dividea into feven hundredt, and includes one city, with ten market- towns. The ci;y is Worceiler, and the market-towns are fiewdley, Broomfgrovc, Droitwich, Eveiham, Kid. derminller, Perfhore, Shipton - upon - Slower, Stur- bridge, Tenbury, and Upton. Worcefter is pleafantly fituated on the eaflern bank of the Severn, at the diftance of a hunurcu and .nineteen miles north*w.''y, the roof of which is fupported by a pillar in the middle. Here are alfo twelve parifh churches, nine within the city, and three without. Of thofe, one dedi- cated to St. Nicholas is a neat ftrudlure. The city has two free-fchools, and fix charity-fchools, in which a hundred and ten boys are (aught, and part of them clothed. There arc Ijkewife feven or eight hofpitals, one of which is a noble building, trecied and en. dowed by Robert BerJ|>ley, Efq, for twelve poor men. The workhoufe is a handfome ilrudure. Worceflcr has an ancient guildhall, and a fionf bridge over the Severn, that was formerly adorned with an elegant old tower. Here is a good quay to which fhips come up the Severn. VVorcefte- is a flourifhing city, and its principal manufadlures arc broad -clo^ith and gloves. The refidcnce of the bifhop of Worcelle' is at Har- tleSury, in the neighbourhood of the city. The prir.cipal palace was originally built in the reign of Hen'y the Third, but having been demolifhed in the civil wars under Charles the Firft, it was rebuilt out of the revenues of the diocefc, and is now a beautiful feat. Worcefter was a Roman city, the Branonium of Antoninus, anil the Brcnogenium of Ptolemy. It is one of thofe places fuppofed to have been built by the Romans, for curbing the Britons who dwelt bey ^i the Severn. Tenbury is fituated on the river Teme, a hundred and twcnty-eigl.t miles from LorJon, and Is a large populous town. Upton is dillant froir. Loni!nn a hundred and one miles. It flands on the Severn, over which it has a bridge. It has alfo a harbour for barges, and a charity-fchool for fixteen girls. Bewdley is pleafantly fituated on the declivity of a hill, by the fide of the Severn, «^ hundred and twenty-two miles from London. It is a populous town, with only a chapel of cai'e to the parifh-church, at Ribbesfordj on the other fide of the Severn, over which it has a ftone bridge. It is a place of confidc- rable trade by means of the Severn, and has a great manufafiiire of Monmouth caps, bought up generally for the ufe of the Dutch failors. Kidderminfhr fiands upon the eaflern hank of the river Stour, at the diftance of a hundred and twenty- eight miles from London. It is a well-built town, containing about five or fix hundred houfes, with » handfome church, tv/o good free-lchools, a charity- ' fchool, two alms houfes and a town- hall. This place I was anciei.tly a borough, and carries on a confider- able trade in the manufaiture of cloth, linfey-woolfcvv and ether ftufFs. Broomfgrove is dif ,it from London a hundred and eighteen miles, here s a charity-fchool founded by Sir Thomas Ciiok, hi teaching and cloth'ng twelve boys, and putting the.-n out appretenticis. This town likewife was formerly a borough, and las confi- ■ dc-ruble n-«nufiiflures both of linen and woollen cloths. I Droit-vich is fituated at the diflance of nincty- { f ve miles from London, an J confifts of about four huiiJ'-ed houTcs, with four churches. It is greatly I enriched by its fait works, which appear to have I been an ubje£t of attention even before the ConquelV. At pcc'fent, this commodity is made only from the 1 lummer to the winter folftice, for fear of overflock- I ing the market. The proprietors of the falt-works i are a corporation : none but a proprietor can be a burgtf; of the town, or vote at the elciAion }f its reprefentatives. Penfhore ftands upon the bank of the river Avon, ac I England.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. a: the diftance of a hundred and two miles from . London^ in tlie road from tiut city to Worcefler. It contain* about three hundred houfet, with two parifb-churchci, and has a manufacture of (loclcings. £vefliam, Evefholm, or Kfam, is alfo iiluated on the Avon, ninety-five miles from London. Here ■re two pacifli-churches, befidss one a' Bengworth, a village on the other fide ofther'^er, but included in the jurifdidlion of Evefham. The bells belonging to both the churches without the town are put up ii! an old detached tower, built by an abbot of this place. Here are alfo a grammar fchool and a cha- rity fchool, maintained by a legacy of a thoufand pounds, left bv Mr. Deacle, late a woolien draper in London. The town has a confiderable manu- failure of woollen llockings, with a bridge over the Avon, and commands a beautiful profpefl of the vale of Efam, This place is an ancient borough, and enjoys many privileges, fome by prefcription, and others by charters. Shipton-upon-Stower is fituated feventy-five miles from London, and is a fmall town, but has a very confiderable market. Stourbridge, fo called fiom a flone bridge at this pUce, over another river named the Stour, is dillant from London a hundred and twenty-eight miles. It is a well-built town, having a church, with a free fchool, and a library, bcfides fome meeting-houfes of diflcnters. This town derives great profit from its iron and glafs works, and is alfo famous for the making of crucibles, the clay in the neighbourhood be'w particularly well adapted to that manufacture. In the time of the Romans, VVorcefterfbire formed part of the diftriCl inhabited by the Cornavii ; and under the Saxons it was a fubdivifion of the king- dom of Mercia, Dorn, a village of this county, near Cat^^pdeii in Gloucefterfhire, was a Roman city. Befides coins, many foundations of ancient btildings .have been difcovered here ; the traces of ftreets are ftill difcern* able, and the Roman Fod'eway paffes through it. The chief manufadtures of VVorcellerfhire are cloth, (lockings, gloves, and glafs j in which, with the fait, hops, and other commodities, the inhabi- tants carry on a confiderable trade. This dilhiA fends nine members to parliament, viz, two for the county, two for the city of VVorcefter, two for each of the boroughs of Evefliam ahd Droitwich, and one for Bewdley. WARWICKSHIRE. Warwiekfliire '.s bounded on the weft by Wor- ceOcrfliire, on the aorth by StaiFordfhire and Der- bylhire, on the eaft by Northamptonihire, and on the fouth by Glouccfterdiire and Oxfordftiire, It extends in length from north to fouth thirty-three miles, and from eaft to weft twenty-fix. The moft confiderable rivers here are the Avon and the Tame, The Avon, which runs acrofs the - . i^o. 34. county from north-eaft to fouth-weft, has been •!• ready defcribed. The Tame, or Thame, arifes in the South part of StafFordfliire, not far from WooU verhampton, and runs fouth-eaft into Warwickfliirri where dirediing its courfe northward, it enters Staf- fordfhire again near Tamworth, a fbw miles north of which town is falls into the Trent. Other fmaller iireams in this county are the Am* ber, the Arrow, the Alne, the Learn, !•''« Swift, and the Stour, The air of Warwickfhire is mild and healthy, and the foil is fertile. The two parts into which the county is divided by the river Avon, and is diftin- guifhed by the names of the Feldon and the Wood> land. The former lies fouth of the Avon, and pro* duces excellent corn and pafture. The Woodland, which is the larger divifion affords plenty of tim- ber ; and great part t>f it being now cleared of woods, it alfo yields abundance of fine ccrn and pafture^ The cheefe made in Warwickfhire is hardly inferior to any in England. This county is fituated in the prorinte of Canter- bury, partly in the diocefe of Litchfield and Coven- try, partly in that of Worcefter, and has a hundred and fifty-eight parifh-churches. It is divided into five hundreds, and contains one city with twelve market towns. Tha city is Coventry; and the market-towns are Aiherfton, Aulcefter, Birmingham, Bitford, Colefliill, Henley, Kineton, Nuneaton^ Rugby, Stratford, Sutton, Coldficid, and Warwick. The city of Coventry is fituated ninety-two miles north-weft of London, and jointly with the city of Litchfield, is the fee of a biihop. It is a large, populous, and rich place, but the buildings are ge- nerally old. Here are three parifh-churches, and a tall fpire, being only the remains of a church that formerly belonged to a .-nonaftery of Gray friars. One of thefe churches called St. Michael's, has a ftone fpire, three hundred foot in heigt, which is much admired. Here are alfo two or three meeting houfes of proteftant diiTenters, a free '"chool, with a jcoJ library, a charity fchool, and an hofpital. The windows of the guildhall are finely painted ; and here is a fpacious market-houfe, with a crofs in the middle fixty foot high, which is adorned with the ftatues of feveral kings of England, as large as the life, and for its workmanfhip and beauty, is inferior to no ftruiSlute of the kind in the kingdom. It was e' ;£ted in the reign of Henry VIII. by a legacy ot I'' William Holies, formerly lord mayor of the city of London. This city ha* a manufadlurc of tam- mies and ribbands. This city was once endofed with walls, which were three miles in compafs, and fortified with twenty-fix towers ; but foon after the reftoration of Charles II. they were demolifhed and only the gates kept ftanding. Thefe, of whfch twelve yet remain, are beautiful and noble ftrudure*. At Coventry is an annual procefllon through the city, on the Friday after Trinity Sunday, with the figure of a naked woman on horfcback, in com- 5 ^ memoration 4i« T K E M ilMmoration of tho following tnnfaAion. Leafric, earl of Mercian •!> irft lord of this cit;-, who died in the thirteenth year of Edward the ConfeiTor, on accdunt of fome oflfence given him by the citisent, loaded them with heavy taxes, for the remiffion of Which Godina, his lady, the daughter of Thorold, iherifF of Lincolnfliire, ■ woman of the moft ex- emplary virtue and piety, inceflantly folicitcd him. Being at length tired with her importunities, he hoped to put an end to them, by faying that he ^irould take off the new duties, provided that Oie would ride naked in the day time, thr ugh the moft frequented parts of the city. Godina, in compaf- fion for the diftteffes of the city, accepted the terms propofed, and rode naked through the ftreets on Horfeback ; having previoufly iffued ordtrt to the citizens, however, that all their doors and windows Aould be (but, and that no body fh&uld attempt to look out. It is added, that this injunflion was violated by no perfon but a tkyli>r, who, as a pu- nifliment for his indifcreet curiofity, was (truck with blindnefs. I'he taylor is now mentioned by the name Of peeping Tom { and ftrangCrs are yet fliown the window through which he is fald to have peeped. In it ftinds his effigy, which is always new drefied on the anniverfary of the proceffion. In a windo^r belonging to Trinity Church in this city, are pic> turcs of earl Leofric, and bit countefs Godina, with the following infcription. / Lurid far tbt Itvt »f thtif D» fit CcvtHtrj till frit, Aulcefter ftands upon the river Avon, at the dif- tance of a hundred and five miles from London. It is a very ancient town, has a free-fchool, and a good market fdr corn. It is fituated upon Ikenild- ftreet, and wis a Roman ftation' : the foundations «f Roman buildings, with many coins, of gold, fil- ver, and brafs, have been dug up at this place ; and about <« century ago, an urn was difcovered here, containing ubWards of fix hundred pieces of Romar. coins, eig' ... which were gold, and the reft filver. Moft Of thefe coins were impreifcd with the bead of fome ofie of the Roman emperors, and the tttttfti generally different. Bitford ftands Upon the river Avon, near its con- fluence with the Arrow, at the diftt'*'** of a hundred miles from London., and contains Mibing worthy of note. Acherfion, called fbr diftinAion Ath^rftr'ti-on-thc- Stour, is fituated on that river, a hundred ■i-'xi three mile: from London. It is a large welUbnilt town, with a chapel of eaft, add a charity-fchool, where twenty girls are taught to reed, knit, fcw, and l)>in. This place is faMious for its cheefe-iUr, which is the great- c>l in England. Mancefler« upon Watting >ftrect, near Ather(h>n, was the Mandueffedum of the Romans. And here feveral RonMn coins of brafs and filver have been dug up, Near this place are the rrm.^ins of an ancient forty ttaUcd Oldbury. It is of a quidran- D E R K [EuRdPE. gulir form, inclofed with high ramparts, and con- tains about feven acres of ground. In the north part of this fortification have been found feveral flint- ftoncs, e»ch about four inches long, curiouHy ground into the form of a pole-ax, and thought by Si VVil- liam Dugdale to have been a fort of weapons ufed by the ancient Britons, before they learned the arc of making weapons of brafs and iron, Stratford, wui.:"«nnly called Stratford-Opon-Avon, is fituated at the diftance of ninety-feven miles from London, It is a large populous town with one church, and a chapel of eafe. The church is dedi. cated to the Trinity, and is thought to be almoft as old as the Norman Conquellj but parts of it have been at different times rebuilt. It was formerly col- legiate, and is celebrated for containing the remains of the immortal Shakfpeare, who was a native of this town, and interred in one of the ailes on the north fide of this church. His grave is covered with a ftone, on which is the following infcription. Gotd fritniy for Jtfusfakt farbiar^ To dig the duft incloftd heri, BUJI tt tbt man that fparet thift flinei^ But (urfl h he that moves my voites. In the wall aver the grave, is a bull of the poef,° cut in marble. Here is a fine grammar-fchool, and an alms-huufe founded by Edward VI, Over the Avon is a ftone- bridge, confifting of nine arches with a long caufey at the end of it, wailed on both fides. This towa has a great trade in corn and malt. Warwick is fituated on the river Avon, a hun- dred and five miles north-weft of London, It ftands on a rock of free ftone, through which a way is cut from each of the four cardinal points. The ftreets are regular and fpacious, and all meet in the centre of the town. Its cellars are cut in the rock, and it is fupplied with water by pipes, from fprings about half a mile diftant. It is a populous town» with only two parifh churhes s one of which, called St. Miry's, is a beautiful edifice. Here are three charity-fchools, in which fixty-two boys, and forty-two girls an: taught and cloathed } befides five hofpitals, one of which has a confiderable en- dowment. The cou.tty afiizes £>'d, which are made here in vaft quan- tities, and exported to all parts of Europe. In the neighbourhood of this town there are an- nual horre-races, Colefhill is fituated near a fmall river called the Cole, a hundred and three miles from London. It has two charity-fcl.^ols, and a piece of land called Pater-nofter-piece, on account of its having been given by one of the family of Digby, who was lord of the manor, for encouraging children to learn the Lord's Prayer. In confequence of this donation, all the children in the town are fent in their turns, one at a time, every morning to church, at the found of the bell, when each kneeling down, fays the Lord's Prayer before the under mafter, by whom they are feverally rewarded with a penny. Here is a Aone bridge over the river Cole. At Colefhill, which alfo {lands upon the Roman way called Ikenild-Areet, copper coins oi the emperor Trajan have been frequently dug up i and at Polef- Woith, north of Atherllon, was difcovereu in 1762, a large earthen pot, full of fmall copper coins, the greater part of which bears a beautiful impreflion of the head of the emperor Crnllantinc, with the name Conftantinus round ;t. On the reverfe are two armed figures, with emblems of various kinds, and round them the words gloria exercitus. A few have an armed head on each fide, with urbs ROMA round it ; and on the reverfe, roMULUs et remus, fitting under a wolf. Others have an armed head on one fide, with the name constantinopolis round it, and Pallas on the reverfe. Some have on the reverfe a chariot and four horfei ; and otiieri ■ vt» riety of Tingle figures. Sutton-Colield, or Coldfield, flands a hUndredand five miles from London, In an excellent air, and among pleafant woods, but in a barren foil. It is fup- pofed to contain about four hundred houfei Here is i church dedicated to the Trinity, confifting of a nave, chancel, and two lide ailei. At the weft end of the churrh is a handfome fquare tower, (Ixty foot high. In this church are three vaults, remarkable for con* fuming very quickly the dead bodies that are depofited in them. This town has a grammar-fchool, f' jnded by bifhop Vefy, and endowed With an eftate worth a hundred pounds a year. Near this town i« in old building, called ttie Ma- nor-houfe, faid to have been one of the hunting-feat* of Wi'liam the Conqueror. Nuneaton flands at the diflance of a hundred milei from London, and is a Well-built, large town, with i free-fchool, and a manufaflure of woollen cloth. Rugby is fttuated upon the river Avon, feventy^fiie miles from London. Here is a grammar- fchool, and tl charity-fchool, with fevera] alms houfes. This towil is remarkable for a great number of butchers. At Brownfover, north of Rugby, are the remains of an ancient caftle, fuppofed to hate been built iti the time of king Stephen- Kinton, or Kington, ftandi eighty-nine miles front London, but has nothing worthy of nott. To th^ fouthward of this place is a valley, called the Vale o( the Red Horfe, from the rude figure of a horfe cut out upon a red foil, on the fide of a hill, and fap« poied, like the White Horfe in Berkfhire, to have beeit a Saxon monument. Th trenches which form thii figure are trimmed by a freeholder in the neighbour-a hood, who enjoys his lands by that fervlce. Near Wai nington, fouth of the Vale of the Red Horfe, is a fquare military entrenchment, containing about twelve acres, where, in the laft century, were found a brafs fword and a battle-a;t. Warwickfhire is One of the five counties Which, iii the time of the Romans, were inhabited by the Cc:- navii, and under the Saxon heptarchy it Was part of the kingdom of Mercia. Three u.' ihe ancient Roman ways, namely, Watting* llreet, Ikenild-flreet, and the FofTe-way, pafs through this county ; and upon each of thefe, which are flill vi- fibte in many places, have been difcovered feveral con- fiderable remains of Roman antiquity. Watling-ftreet parts this county from Leiceflerihire ; Ikenild-ftreet pafTes through it, along the borders of Worcefler- (hire, into StafTordfhire } and the FolTe-way, croiling Watling-flreet out of Leiceflerfhire, at a place now called Higii Crofs and formerly the Benones of the Romans, runs fn fions. The river is navigable to this city by barges, in which coals and other commodities are imported ; and hence, in fome years, are exported fix thoufand quar- ters of malt, befides other goods, particularly cloth, ftockings, and different woollen manufa^ures, iu which the poor are conftantly employed, Caerdyke, or, as it is commonly called, Cordykc, near Peterborough, is a Roman trench i an ufeful work for draining the fens, and facilitating com- merce in thofe parts, its dimenfions being fufficient ta render it navignble. There is a Roman road, called, from its breadth. Forty- foot- way, which begins at Peterborough, and palTes by Burleigh park wall, into Stamford in Lino colnfliire. Caftor, about three miles from Peterborough, it fuppofed to have been part of the ancient city called by the Romans Durobrivx, and by the Saxons Dor- mancefter. It extended anciently along both fides of the river Nen, though the remains are now vifible only on the north fide of the river. Many Roman antiquities have been difcovered here ; und on a bill,' upon which a church now ftands, there was anciently a caftle, the feat of the Roman governor, Daventry, or Daintry, is diftant from London fe- venty-three miles, and being a great thoroughfare, it !§ a ^h !* I ^^/^//if?^ Mi^i/^f^n i^u^ n^4- England.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 41S tf, 9 it ha* many good inni, which are itt chief Aipport. Roman coini have often been dug up here \ and upon Borough-hill, about half a mile from this town, are yet to be feen the ruin* of a Roman fortification, three mile* in compafi. The Roman military way, called Watling'ftreet, run* through thi* town, in it* courfe to Warwickfliire. Weedon>on-ihe- Street, foulh-eaft of Daveniry, wa* the ancient Bannavenna mentioned by Antoninu* { and a military w«y goe* diredly by it, Lyiborn, near Daventry, i* fuppofed to have been a Roman ftatlon, by it* fituation on the Watling- fireet, and by Roman pavement), trenche*, ruin* of walla and houfea, and military mount* of variou* di- menfion*, at or near thi* pi ce \ but efpecially from the trace* of a fort, at a mount called the Round- bill. At Chipping- Werden, not far from Daventry, an the remains of a rampart of earth, which, from it* form, and the great number of coin* dug up here, it fuppofed to have been a fence raifed by the Roman*. . In a field in the neighbourhood of Woodford, near Daventry, are veftige* of Roman buiMing* \ and fome years ago, a Roman urn wu turnad up htta bjr' the plough. Braclcley ftand* fifty-feven mile* from LoDdoo, new the head of the Oufe, with which it i* plcafantly wa- tered . This is fuppofed to be the third borough ereAed in England, and wa* once famous for tilt* Md tour- namenis. It was alfo formerly a great ftaple for wool, but at prefent the market* are for At Iwgt, boot* aail flioes. A: Charlton, near Brackley, it « fitrtification calM Rainfborough, which is fuppofed to have bean a D>- nifh camp. Towcefter, or Toflcetter, is fituated iixty-wa mile* from London, on a fmall dream called the Trove, and fometimcs the Wedon, which almott furroundait, and over which it has three bridges. Standing in the great road to Chefter, it is furniflied with good inns, and i* a handfome, populous town. The inhabitant* arc almoft all employed in the manufadure* of lace and filk ; and here are annual horfe-races. This place is fuppofed to have been the Tripontium of Antoninus. It has at this day three bridges over three flreams, into which the little river it ftand* upon is here divided. Many Roman coins have been dug up at this town, and the military way, called Watling-ftreet, runs through it. Northampton is diftant from London fixty-fix miles, and i* an elegant town, Thi* appear* to have been an obfcure place till after the Conqueft. It has, how- ecer, fent members to parliament fince the reign of Edward 1. and, as it lies in the heart of the kingdom, feveral parliaments have been held here. In this town the barons began their rebellion againft Henry III. who took it by aflault. Northampton was formerly furrounded with walls, which were two miles in com- pafs. Within were feven churches, and two without ; of which only four remain. The largeft, called All- hallows, ftands in the centre of the town, at the meeting of four fpacious ftreets. It has a ftately por- No. 35. tico, fupported by eight lofty Ionic column*, with • ftatue of king Charles II. on the baluftrade. Here i* a feiBon* and afllse boufe, which i* a beautiful build- ing, in the Corinthian ftyle 1 with a market-place, fo regular and fpaciou*, a* to be accounted one of the fineft in Europe. On the weft M" of the town are ftill to be feen the remain* of an old caftle. Here i« a county.jail, and three hofpital* | with two bridge over the Ncn { and in and about the town are great number* of cherry-g*rda|i(. Northampton ha* the moft confiderable horfa-mar- ket in England. Thi* town i* a great thoroughfare, both to the north and weft countic*, from London, which contribute* much to it* wealth and populouf- ncf*. The principal manufaAure* here are flioc* and ftockingi, of which great quantitie* are exported. On a neighbouring down, called Pye-ley*, are frequent horfe-race*. At GuileflMrough, north-weft of Northampton, are to be feen the veftige* of a Roman camp, the fitua- tion of which i* the more remarkable, a* lying be- twecn the Ncn and the Avon, the only paf* from the north to the fcnth part* of England not intercepted by any river. Thit camp wa* fecured only by a fingle intreochmcnt, which wu, however, very broad and deep. Within half • mih of Northampton, ftand* one o^ the croflei craApd by Edward I. in memory of hi* queen Elean«r, whofe corpfe wa* refted here in ice way to Weftmioftcr) and at a fmall diftance north- ward of thi* crafi, ftvcrai Roman coin* have been dug up. At Althrop, '-about four miles from Northampton, ta a noble feat belonging to the family of Spen- cer, buSb by Robert earl of Sunderland, in the middle of a nohle park, «a the ikirt* of a beautiful down. Thi* houfe i* particularly remarkable for a magnifi- cent gallcrji ftUaiihed with curiou* painting* by the beft mafter* \ and for a noble piece of water, on which i* a fino, Venetian gondola. . Rothwell, or Rowell, ftand* at the diftance of fix- ty-nine mile* ftca London, on the fide of a rockjr hill, whence it itiplentifully fupplied with fpring* of pure water. The town is well-built, and hu a fine market-houfe, confifting of a fquare edifice of alhler ftone, adorned with the arma of raoft of the nobility and gentry of the countjr, carved under the eornilh on the outfide. Kettering ftand* upon a fmall river that run* inta the Nen, at the diftance of feventy-two mile* from London. It i* a handfom'^, populou* town, with a feffion*-houfe for the county, a fmall hofpital, and a charity-fchool for twenty girls, employed in fpinning jerfeyi. The trade of this place i* very confiderable, al- moft two thoufand hand* being conftantly occupied in the manufa£lure of Ihalloons, tabbies, and ferge*. At Oxendon, near Kettering, i* a remarkable echo, formed by the tower of a church, which will re- peat twelve or thirteen fyllablet very diftinAlyt and at Boughton, not far diftant, is a petrifying well. Among the many noble feats in this county, is the oiagnificent houfe at Boughton, within two mile* 5L of 4'4 THE MODERN [EVXOPK. Enoi of thti towni built by the 6fft dtike of Montagu, •fur the aoM of the palice of Verfiillei, omi- RMOKd with noble ptinlingi, ftatuM* foiuiuini, ca naU| tcrracei, aiid a fine caicade and river. Rockingham ii ficuated on the riv«r Wclland, at the diftaace of cighiy-chree roilea from London. Here it a charity- fchool for twelve boyi i and upon a hill at a little di9t*nce, there formerly flood a caflle, built by William the Conqueror, Rockingham Furefl, in the time of the ancient Britona, ntcnded almoft from the Welland to the Ncn, and wai fa- mom for ita iron works, Oufldle ii fituatcd fixty-fivc milct from London. It is a neat uniform town, and i* almoft furroonded by the livcr Nen, over which it bai two good flonc bridgea. One of thefe, called the North Bridge, U remarkable for the number of ita arcbet, and a iioe caufey leading ko it. Here is a handfome church, with a free-fcbool, and an almthoMlie, both founded by Sir William Laxton, lord-mayor of London, and Supported by the Grocers company of that city. Here ii aUb another alm*-bouie, with two charity- iichooU, * Fotberingay Caile, near Oiudle, ia a very ao- cient building, whert Kichard III, w^ born* and Mary queen of Scots was beheaded. ■ Thropilon ftand* at the diOamie of iaty-five miles from Loadon, in a pleafant valley^ upon the river Neg, over wbirh it hu a fine bridge. The Nen having been made navigable to tbii tow> by ad of parliament, boatt now come hither. ligham Ferrers flandson the eaft fide of the Nen, at the diflance of fifty-ainc milce from London. It it a fmall, but pieafant town ; and b a royal manor, put of the duchy of Lancafier. Here is a handfome church, with a lofty fpire, a Ace*fch^, and as alma-houfe. At Mill- Cotton, not far hence, are the remains of a Roman encampment, and in the neighbouring fields Roman coins and urns have been frcqnentlydug up. Wellingborough ftands iixty- five mile* from London, •n the fovth fide of a hill, about a quarter of a mile from the river Nen. It it a large, populous, trad- ing town, and has a handfome church, with a cha- rity.fchool for forty children, who are maintained, cloathed, and aught to read and write. The chief trade of the town ia in corn, but it hu alio a con- fiderable manufaflure of lace. This place is cele. brated for medicinal waters. At Chefter, near Wellingborough, are traces of a Roman camp, of almoft twenty acres, inclofed with a large flone wall. In the area have been found Roman paventents, coins, and other antiquities. At Burleigh, on the confines of this county, about a mile from Stamford in Liocolnfliirc, the earl of Exeter haa a magnificent feat, called Burleigh-houie. It has the appearance rather of a town than a boufe : its towers aud pinnacles look like thofe of churches ; and a large fpire covered with lead, in the centre, rlfes like that of a cathedral. It commands an ex- tenfive profped, and is furniflbed with many excellent paintings, This county, in the time of the Ramans, was part of the territory inhabited by the CoriianI, and under the Saxons it belonged to the kingdom of Mcrcia. Its principal manufajiures are ferges, tammies, flial- loons, boots and (hoes. It fends to parliament nine members, via. two for the county, two for the city of Peterborough, the fame number for each of the boroughs of Northampton and Brackley, and one for Higham Fcrrars. BEDFORDSHIRE. Bedfordfliire ii bounded on the weft by Bucking- kamfhire and Northampionlhire, on the north by the latter of thcfe counties and Huntingtonfhire i on the eaft by CambridgeOiire, and on the fouth by Hert- fbrdfliire. It extends in length about twenty-two miles, and in breadth fifteen. The princtpel river of this county is the Oufe or Ife, which enters it on the weft fide, and paflet through it caftward, by many meanders } dividing the county into two parts, of which that on the fouth it moft confiderahlc. 7'his river is navigable the whole way i and in its courfe is joined by a fmall ftream, called the Ivel, which runs through part of the county from north to fouth. The air here it pure and healthful, and the foil in general a deep clay. On the north fide of th« Oufe the land ie fruitful and woody } but on th* fouth it is leia fertile. It produces wheat and barley in great abundance. Wood is alfo much cultivated here, and atany parts afford plenty of Fuller*! earth. Badfbrdfliire it fituated in the province of Can- terbury, and diocefe of Lincoln, and contains a hun- dred and twenty-four parifhea. It is divided into nine hundreds, and compriset ten market-towni, bat MO city. Thofe towna are Ampthill, Bedford, Bigglefwade, Dunftable, Leighton-Beaudifart, Luton, Potton, Sheftbrd, Tuddington, and Wobura. Bedford ftands forty-eight miles from Ltmdon, and ia a well-built town, the ftreett in general being broad, efpecially the High-ftreet. Here are five parifli-churches, one frce-fchool, one charity-fchool, an alms-houfe, and two hofpitals. The town is in- terfered by the river Oufe, in tbe diredion of eaft and weft ; and over the river is a ftone bridge with two gates. OfFa, a powerful prince of the Mercians, made choice of this place for his interment. It it fald that bis tomb was of lead, and that a chapel was built over it t but the Oufe fome time afterwards overiow- ing its banks, fwept away both the chapel and tomb. Bedford, having been deftroyed by the Danes, was repaired in the beginning of the tenth century, by Edward the Elder, who alfo built a little town on the fouth fide of the river, which was then called Mikefgate. Ampthill i» pleafantly fituated between two hills, and has a charity I'chool, and an alms-houfe, well endowed by a private benefadiion. At this place the countefs England.) GENERAL TRAVELLER. 4«5 counceft of Pembroke built a feat, after a moJd defigned by Sir Philip Sidney in hii Arcadia. M^oburn (landi forty-four milei from London. The town hai a good market-houfe, • free-fchool, and a charity I'chuol, but whai chiefly diftinguiOiei It, it the magnificent feat of the duke of Bedford, callcn Woburn Abbey i wifour miles from I !• don, it a populous town, built on the fpot where the two Roman ways, called Watling-ftreet and Ike. nild ftreet, crofs each other. It ftands on a chalky eminence, at the end of a long ridge of hills called < theChiltern. In this place no fprings have ever been found, though fought for at the depth of a hundred and fifty foot. On this account the neighbourhood is fupplied with water from four public ponds, in- tended as refervois for the rain. This place it a great thoroughfare to the northern and weftem counties. About • mile hence, on the defcant of the Chil- tern bills, is a round fortification, fappofed to have been a tower of the ancient Britons. It includes about nine acres : the rampart is moderately high, but there is no appeafance of tny dkch. This place is called Madning-bowere, Madin^bowere, or Maiden-bower, and coins of the Roman emperors are frequently found here. Camden fuppofes it to have been the Roman flation which Antoninua in hit Itinerary Magioninium, Magiovinium, and Mi- gintum. After Magintum wat dellroyed by war or <::me, another town was built by Henry I. where Dunftable now ftands. In the middle of it ftood one of the crofTes which Edward I, ereAed to the memory of Eleanor his queen. Thofe crofTes confided of pillars adomsd with flaiues. Luton ia pleafantly fituated between ° two hills, twenty>nine miles from London. Here is a large market-houfe, and a confiderable manufaAure of ftraw hats. ShcfFord lies forty-miles from London, between two rivulets, over each of which there is a bridge. In this town the parifh of Compton has a chapel of cafe. Bigglefwade, diftant from London forty-live miles, is fituated on the Ivel, which is here navigable, and crofTcd by a flone bridge. This town has two cha- rity-fchool>, and lying in the high road beetween London and York, it has many good Inns, In the time of the Romans, Bedfordfhire was in- habited by the Cuttieuclani. Its principal manufac- 6 turet are bone lace, and (traw w«ret, particularl/ batt. (t fendt four members to parliament, vl». two for the county, and two for the borough of Bedford. HUNTINOTONSHIRE. Huntingtonfliire is bounded on the weft and north by Northamptonfhire, on the eaft by Cambridgefhire, and on the fouth by Bedfordfhire. It is one of the fmallefl counties in England, meafuring in length from north to fouth only twenty-four miles, and in breadth aightccn. The chief rivers that paf^ through this county are the Oufa and Nen, which have been formerly de- fcribed. The Nen here forms ftveral large bodiei of wateti called by the inhabitants Meets. One of thofe meets or lakes, named Wittlefejr-meer, not far from Peterborough, is fix miles long and three broad. Other confiderable meert formed by the fame river, areUg-meer, Brick meer, Ramfey-meer, and Benwich- meer, whence the river Nen, continuing its eoutfe through Cambridgefhire and Lincolnfhire, falls into the German ocean not far ftom Wifbich, in the county of Cambridge. The air of Huntingtonfliire it rendered lefs pure than that of fraie other counties, by the great num> ber of fetit, meen, and other flagnant waters with which it abounds, efpecially in the north part. Bat the foil in genertd it fruitful. In the higher landt it yields great crept of corn, as well as excellent paT- tare for fheep. And in the lower grounds, the mea- dows are exceeding rich, affording abundance of fine cattle, not only for llaughter, but for the dairy. The cheefe made at a village called Stilton, near Yaxley^ is (lyled the Parmefan of England, The inhabitants of thit county are well fupplied with fifh and water- fowl, by the liven and meen, but have hardly any firing except turf. Huntingtonfhire lies in the province of Canterbury and diocefe of Lincoln, and contains feventy-nine parifhes. It has no city, and only fix market-towns, which are, Huntington, St. Ives, Kimboltont St. Neot's, Ramfey, and Yaxley. Yaxley, which is the Arft town that we meet on entering the county from Nonhamptonlhire, is fitu- ated in the fient, at the diftance of feventy-two miles from London. It is a neat little town, the houfet in general being well built, .->nd has a church, with a handfome and lofty fpire. Dornford, a village upon the Nen, north- yreft of this place, was the city of Durobrivar, mentioned by Antoninus, Here are many veftiges of its ruins, and of a Roman port-way, which, near Hill-Stilton, appears with a very high bank, and in an old Saxon charter is called Ermin-ftreet. At the place lad mentioned it pafTes through the middle of a fquare fort, defended on the north by a wall, and on the fouth by ramparts of earth, near which feveral flone coffins have been dog up, Some antiquaries are of opinion Hi' 4i« T H E M O opinioa lh>l Durobriva flood on both fldei the river Ncn, and that the liiilt villagt Caftcr, upon iht otiwr Gd« of th« riv«r, wa* pari of ihi« city, A great number of Roman coini bat been dug up at thia place. Ramfcy, or Kami-Ifle, it diflant flxiy-fcvcn milri from London. It ii every where encompafltd wiih feni, eiicept upon the weft fide, where it joint (he terra firma by a caufey two mile* long, iiicloicd with eldcri, rccdi, and bulrufliei. Thia wa> formerly a place of great note, having been commonly called Ramfey the Rich, before the diflblution of a wealthy abbey that flood here, the abboii of which were mi- tred, and fat in parliament. Here it a chirity-fchool for poor girli. The mcera in the neighbourhood of thia town abound with water-fowl and fifli, parti- cularly ecli, and large pikw, called hahedi i on which account the market at thi* place it one of the cheap- eft and mod plentiful in England for fuch com- moditiei. Among the ruini of the ancient abbey, fome part of the gate-houfe, with the tomb of Ailwin, the foun- der, ia ftill ftanding. The tomb it decorated with a ftalue of him, which ii thought to be the moft ancient piece of Englifli fculptuie extant, and haa the following remarkable infcription : ** Hie requi- cfcit Ailwinua inclyti regit Eadgari cognatui, totiui Anglic aldermannui, it hujua facri coenobii miracu<- lofua fundator." Ailwin ia reprefented holding in hia band two keyi and a ragged ftaff, aa the cn- figna of hia office. In the year 1711, a great quan. tity of Roman coina waa found here, fuppofed to have been hidden by the monka on fome incurAoiu of the Danea. Between Ramfey and Witlefey-mecr there ia a ditch, fomctimea called Swerdea Delf, and fomatimca Routa' Delf, but moft commonly Steed'a Dyke. It feparates thia county from Cambridgelhire, and ia faid to hav« been occafioned by the following acci- dent. Aa Canute'a family and retinue were paffing over Witlefey>meer, in their way from Peterborough to Ramfey, their veflel waa (hipwrccked in one of the commotiona that frequently happen in thofe meers, and feveral Uvea were loft : upon which the king, to prevent the like difafleri, ordered hit army to mark out a ditch with their fworda and (keini, which gave occafton to the name of Swerdea Delf; and he afcerwarda employed laboureri to accomplifli the work. Huntington, or Huntingdon, ia diftant from Lon- don fifty-feven miles, and ftands on an eminence on the north Title of the river Oufe, over which it has a flone bridge. This town had once fifteen churches, which in Camden's time were reduced to four, and it has now but two. The town confifts chiefly of one long flreet tolerably well-built, and haa a hand- fome market-place. Here is a good grammar-fchool, Thia is ftill a populous trading place, and ia a tho- roughfare in the great north road. Huntington is remarkable for having given birth to Oliver Crom- well, the ufurper. At Bugden, not far from hence, E N (EuROPf. is a bandfome houfe, called Bugden-palace, belong- ing to the biftiup of Lincoln. Near Huntington bridge there is a mount, anJ the ground- plut of a caftle, built by Kdward the hidcr, in 917, and grcaily enlarged by David king of ScotlinJ, to whom Stephen icfigned the borough of Huntiiigion. I'his csftle was demoliftted by Henry II. to put an end to the frequent quarrels that arofe from a competition for the earldom of Huntington, between the Scotiifli kings and the family of St. Lia. Kimbolion it fituated at the diftance of fixty-two milet from London, and is chiefly noted for a large ancient caftle belonging tn the duke of Mancheftcr, Thia place it the Kinnibontum of the Romans. St. Ncot's, commonly called St. Need's, ftandi fifty-fix milea from London, and is a large, well- built populous town. It haa a handfomc church with a remarkably fine fteeple, and an excellent ftone bridge over the Oufe, by which river coals are brought to it, and fold through the county. Here ia a charity-fchool for twenty-five pocr children. St. Yvea it fifty-feven milea diftant from London, and ftanda upon the river Oufe, over which it baa a fine ftone bridge. In the ninth century thia place had a mint, u appears from a Saxon coin found here, and was a flourifliing town not many years ago, when great part of it waa burnt. It waa however rebuilt, and here ia ftill a good market for fatted cattle, brought from the North. At Somerfliam, a village about three milea north- eaft of tbit town, ii a houfe called Somerfliam-PIace, which waa formerly a palace belonging to the bilhop of Ely, and waa given to that diocefe by earl Brith- not, in the year 991. It is now a gentleman's feat. Huntingtonfliire is part of the diftri£k anciently inhabited by the Iceni, who extended their dominions alfo over the counties of Suffolk, Norfolk, and Cam- bridgelhire. Under the Saxons, however, thia county waa feparatcd from the traA formerly poffefled by the Iceni, and became part of the kingdom of Mercia. The town of Godmanchefter, which ia feparated from Huntington by the river Oufe, ia fuppofed to be the Durofiponte, a name fignifying « hidgt ivtr lb* Oitfi, which Antoninua in hia Itinerary calla Du- roliponte, by the miftake of a Angle letter. In the time of the Saxons this town loft the Bri- tifli or Roman name, and acquired that of Gorman- cefter, from a caftle built here by Gorman, the Dane, to whom thofe parta were ceded, by the peace with king Alfred. From the Saxon appellation Gorman- cefler the prefent name it immediately derived. The inhabitants of this town are remarkable for having improved the art of hufl>andry, and are faid to hold their lands by a tenure, which obliges them, when any king of England paflet that way, to attend him with their ploughs and horfes, adorned with ruftic trophies. They have bo^fted that upon fome occa- fions, they prefented a train, confitting of no lefa than nine fcore of ploughs. When king James I. pafled through this town, on his journey from Scot- land, the farmers of Godmanchefter met bim with« (EuRopr. Ulice, belong. a mount, mj y Kdwird the |y David king ihe borough |fl»«d by Henry I'tl* that iror« k Huncington, fy or St. Lii. of lixty-two for » largt Manchtflcr. ^omaoi. 'eed'i, ftaiidt l«rg«, well. Ifomc church ■n ueillent river coali are iney. Here ii hildren. from London, which it ha« ury ibii place coin found iny ytari ago, wai howarer :*t for fatted miles north. erfhamPlace, to the biihop by earl Brith- leman'a feat. ti& anciently eir dominiont k, andCam- '• ihit county >fl*efled by the of Mercia. I i* feparated fuppofed to » iritlgt tvtr rj calli Du. ir. loft the firi. of Gorman> 1 the Dane, peace with in Gorman- ived. The for having aid to hold Ijeni, when attend him with ruftic ■ome occa> of no lefa g Jamei I. from Scot- bim with< a England.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 4'7 a cacalcMl* of tfcaiy new (iluughi, each drawn by a iciiii of horfei wliicli fu pleAfed the king that be iucoiporaied ihcni. Near ihit pl«cr, in the road from London to Hun- tington, in a tree well known lo iravelleii by the iKineof Ucg|;ar'« Buni. On what account it received ibli name ii uncertain i but we are luM tlui king Jaitiei I. being on a prugreft thii way with hit chan> ci'llor, lord Uacon, and hearing that the latter had laviftily lewatdcJ a mtn for fome mean prefeni, told bim *' ha would Toon come to Beggar'i Bu(h, ai he fliould himfelf too, if they continued both (o very bountiful." It ii now a proverb common in the county, that when a man ii obfervcd to fquander bia fortune, he it in the way to Beggar'i Bulh. Thii county ia not remarkable for any maiiufiic- turr, fo that iti trade conflfti chiefly of fuch com- muditici ai are iti natural ptodudlioni. It fendi to parliament only four ntembcti, vis. two for the Ihire, and two for the borough of Huntington. CAMBRIDGESHIRE. Cambridgtfliire it bounded on the wed by Hun- lingtonlhire and Bedfurdfltire, on the north by Lin< colnlhire, on the ead by Norfolk and Suffolk, and on the fouth by Hertford/hire and Eflex. It extendi in length from north to fouth forty milei, and in breadth about twenty- five. The principal riven are, the Oufe, already men> tinned, and the Cam, which running through the tempted without fucccfi. tn the reign of Charlei I. Francii, carl of Uedrurd, agreed with the >.iabi. taiiti of the deluged trt& to drain the whole level, in confidaration of receiving for hii own ufe, ninety-five thoufaiid acrei of the land. The Earl admitted fiveral other pcrloni to be ftiareri with him in thii work, in which after a hundred thoufand poundi had been expended, the ground wai flill under water. The execution of the ptnjci^ wai then undertaken by the king, who engaged to complete the work for fixty. nine thoufand acrci, and proceeded in the attempt, till the breaking out of the civil war. During ihofe commoiioni the work wai totally fufpended i but in the year 4649, William, earl of Bedford, and the other adveniureri who had been aflbciated with Francii, refumed (he undertaking upon the original contract for ninety-five thoufand acrei 1 and after having expended three hundred thoufand pounda more, the work was completed. But the expencc being much greater than the value of ninety- five thoufand acres, many of the adventurers were ruined by the projeA. The fandlion of the legiflature, be- fidci, was necefTary to confirm the agreement, and inved the contraflori with fuch righti and powera as might enable them to fecure the advantages whicli they had obtained. Upon application therefore to Charlei II. he reeommended the matter to parliament, and in the fifteenth year of his reign, an aA wai pafTed, entitled an ASt for fettling the drains of the great level called (from the firil private contractor) Bedford Level, By thii a£l the proprietori were in> corporated by the name of the governor, bailifTi, and middle of the county from fouth to north, falli into commonalty, of the company of the Confervators of the former at Streatham-meer, near Thetford, by t-ly. Belidci thofe riven there are many channels and draini ; for almolt all the watera from the mid- dle of England, except what is difcharged from the Thames and the Trent, fall into part of this county. The names of thofe different water-courfci are, the Gleene, the Welland, the Neane, the Grant, the Mildenhall, the Brandon, and the Stookej befidcs the water called Moreton's Learn, which is now navigable from Peterborough to VVifbicb. A confiderable tra£l of land in this county is dif- tinguifhed by the name of the Ifle of Ely. It con- fifts of fenny ground, divided by innumerable chan- nels and drains, being part of a very fpacious level, containing three hundred thoufand acres of land, and extending from this county into Norfolk, Suffolk, Hitntingtonfhire, Northamptonfhirc, and Lincoln- fliire. The ifle of Ely is the nortnerii divifion of the county, and flretches fouthward almoft as far as Cambridge. The whole level, of which this is a part, is bounded on one fide by the fea, and on the other by uplands, whiih form a kind of rude femicircle, refembling a horfe-Ihoc. At what time this level began to be overflowed, it is impoiTtble to determine } but the inundation ap- pears to have continued to a very late period. Many applications were made to the government fur cutting rivers and drains, which were a* often at- No. 3S. the great level of the Fens. The corporation con- fifls of one governor, fix bailiffs, and twenty confer^ vators. I'he governor and one bailiff, or two bailiffs' without the governor, and three confcrvators, make a quorum. They are empowered to lay taxes on the ninety-five thoufand acres, and to levy them with penalties for non-payment, by fale of a fuflicieht part of the land of which the tax and penalty are due. By this »fk the whole ninety-five thoufand acres were not veiled in the corporation. The king referved twelve thoufand acres to himfelf; ten thou, fand of which he afligned to his brother, the duke of York, and two thoufand to the duke of Portland. In the Ille of Ely the air is damp and uhwKole- fome, but in the fouth eaft parts of the county it is more falubrious. The foil is alfb very different : in the Ifle of Ely it is hollow and fpongy, yet affords excellent palturagej in the uplands to the fouth. eaft, it produces great plenty of bread corn and bar- ley. The dry and barren parts have been much iih- proved by fowing the graft called yimr/im. The principal comtoodities of Cambridgefliire are corn, malt, cattle, butter, faffron, colefeed, hemp, filh, and wild fowl. The wild fowl are taken in decoys, into which they are led by tame ducks that are trained for the purpofe. In the Ifle of Ely there ia fuch plenty of thofe birds, that three thoufand cou- ples are faid to be fent to London every week ; and 5 M there 4« 8f THE M O C E R N [EUROPI. IN lh(r« ii en* iteof ntir Ely, which l«U for Avt bundrcd poundi • year, CtmbriJgcfliiri. liei in the province of Ctnttr^ury Mid dioccft of Ely, (KCfpi « lintll part which ii in the dioccfe of Norwich ^ and conuinr * hundred and futy-lbr«c parifltei. It ii divided into fevcn- tetn hundred!, and inctudci one city, and eight market-towni, one of which, Cambridge, it • bo rough and urivcrAiy. The city it Ely i and the market towni ar« Cambridge, Caxton, Lynion, Meifli, Newmarket, Royfton, Soham, and' Wilbich. The city of Ely ii fituated in that part of the county called the lt[t ut Ely, and ii fixtynine miles diAant from London. It ii governed by the bifliop, who hat not only the ecclcfuftical, but the civil jurifdiiSion i and though a city, it ii not rtpre* fcnted in perliamcnt » two particuUri in which it diflTeri from every other city in the kingdom. It ftandi on a riflng-ground, but being in th« m'M of finny land.i, and furrounded with water, ii reckoned an unhealthy place. It ii of great antiquity, but neither bcabtiful nur populour, The principal ftrcetv which it on the ead Tide of the town, ii full of fj)ringi, and at the diftance of almoiV every hundred yards there are welli, which, though they are in* clored at the top with a wall aboat two fool high, yet generally overflow, and form a ftream from one to the other, that ii continually trickling down the hill. The principal buildings are the cathedral and the epifcopal palace. The former is four hundred foot long, and has a tower at the weft end about two hundred foot in height, ft has Ifo a (lately cupola, which is Teen at a great diftance, and has a fine efitiSt, though it feems to totter with every blaft of wind. Here is a free-fchool for the main- tenance and education of forty -two boys, bcfldes two charity fchools fupported by voluntary fubfcrip- tion. The environs of the city are gardeners grounds, which produce fo great a quantity of vegetablei as fupplies the whole county to Cambridge | and thofc commodities arc Tent even to St. Ives, in Hunting- tonfhlre. The fovercignty of Ely wat fettled' tipon the bl- fl)op by Henry I, who alfo made Cambridgefbite his diuccfe, which before was part of the diocefo of Lincoln From this time the bifliop appointed a judgr, to determine in all caufes, whether civil or criminal, that fliouUI arife within his ifle, till the time of Henry VIII. who aboliflied this privilege. Cambridge, the county-town, is fituated en the river Cam, at the diftance of fifty-two miles from London. It is divided into two parts by the river, over which is a ftone bridge. The town lying low, and the adjacent country being moift, the air is not ruputed to be very healthful. The former is alfo dirty and ill built, but has fourteen parifli-churches. In the market-place there is a public conduit which was built by Hobfon the carrier, who in the reign cif James I. acquired a great eftate, A building called the fhire-houfe was erefled' fome years ago at the cxpence of the county. Ilere arc two charity- llrhooli, in which three hundrtd children are taught, and fifty cloeihed. The Univerfity of Cambridge eonfins of riairrn collrgrs, four of which are dillinguiftird by thirnam* of halls, iKoMgh the privileges of both are in every rrfpeA equal, it is a corporation confifting of about fiftren nundred perfoni, and li governed by a cbsn- ctllor, a high Dcward, two proAors, and twe taaeri, each of whom is cbofrn by the Univerfity. The chancellor is always a peer of the realm, am! gene* rally continues in his ofice fer life, ty the tacit con- fent of (he Unlvcrruy, though a new choice may be made every three yean. He ha* not, however, the power of appointing his fubftiiute, who is nominated by the Univerfity every year, and is always the head of fome college. The high fteward is chofen by the fenate, and holds his place by patent from the Univciflty. The proAora and laxrrs are alfo choreti every year, from the feveral aolleges and halls by turns. I'he public (Vhools, of which there is one for every college, are in a building of brick nnd rough dune, eredlcd on the four fides of a quadrangular court. Every college has alfo it* particular library, in which, except that of King's college, the feholars are not obliged to ftudy, as in the libraries of Oxfo"!, buc may borrow the books and peru.L- them in their cham- bers. Befides the particular libraries of the feveral colleges, there is the Univerfity library, which con- tain] the collciSions of the archbifhops Parker, Grin- dal, and Bancroft; and of Dr. Thomaa Moorr, bi- fliop of Ely, confining of thirty thoufand volume;, which was purchafed for feven thoufand poundi, an* prefented to the Univerfity by king George I, in the year 1715. Each college has alfo its particular chape?, wlirrv l4le matters, fellows, and feholars meet every moin- ing and evening, for public worfhip -, though on Sun- days and holidays, when there is a fetmOHy they at- tend at St. Mary's church. The name* of the colleges are Peter-houfr, Clare hall, Pembroke hall, Corpus-Chrifli or BenediA college. Trinity halt, Gonvil and Caius college. King's college. Queen's college, Catharine hall, Jefus college, Chrift's college, St John's college, Magdalen college, Trinity college, Emanuel college, and Sidney- SulDsx college. Peter-houfe is a large quadranguhr building, welt contrived, and adorned with porticoes, and has a mafter, twenty- two fellows, and forty- two fcholan. Clare hall is one of the neateft mid moft unifornt ftru£lures in the univerfity. It is a fquare building three Aeries high, creAed of free-ftone, in the Do- ric order. The court is entered by a lofty gate- houfe, adorned with two rows of pillars. Contiguous to the college Is another building, the upper ftory of which is the library, and the lower the chape). To this college belongs a meadow on the other fide of the river, which communicates with it by a bridge. It has a mafter, eighteen fellows, and fixty-three iVholarf, 3 Prm- I'SOLAND.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 4»9 Pembroke htll hit nothing rfmarkiblt In Ici tiuilding. It hti * miner, fivt fcllowi, inii ihirtcin K'hulitt. Corpus Chrifti, or BenfdiA cnllcgr, ii an oblong fquir* of builHingi, containing two court*, and two rawi of loilgingt. It hai a ch.ipel tnJ library under iht fame roof ( and mainiuini a maAer, twelve fel> low*, and forty fcholari. Triniiy-hall ii an irregular building, but hai com- modioui lodging! for the maftrr and fellows, with plcaf^nt gardciii inclofcd by brick walli. It main- tain! twaire fellowi, and fourteen fcholari. Gonvil and Caiui college hai twenty.fix fellowa, and feveniy-four fcholari. King*! college ii an unfiniftied pile \ yet the cha- pel, though built by parts, at different and diftant iimci, ii extremely fuptrb. It ii three hundred and four foot long, feventy-three broad, and nineiy.fuur high on the outfidr. It hat no pillar within to fup- poit the roof, which, ni well ai the fidei, is of free- itone. The choir ii adorned with excellent carving, and the windowt are very curiuiifly painted. I'his college maintaina a mafter, fifty fellowi, and twenty fcholari. Catharine hall maintain a mader, fix fellowi, and thirty fcholari. Jefua college has a mafter, fixtcen fellowi, and thirty-one fcholari. Cbrift'i college ii adorned with a fine new build- ing, and maintaini a mafter, fifteen fellowi, and fifty fcholari. St. John'i college is a large edifice, confifting of thr:e court*, and has a mafter, fifty- fuur fellows, and a hundred fchoKirs. Magdalen college ftandt oppofite to the above- mentioned, on the other fide of the river. It main- tains a mafter, thirteen fellows, and thirty fcholars. Trinity college confifti of two fpacioui courts, in one of which has lately been erefhd a library of free- flone, fupported by two rowi of pillars, and much admired for the elegance of its ftruflure. This col- lege haa fixty-five fellows, and ninecy-one fcholars. Emanuel college hai a very neat chapel, built chiefly by the bounty of archbiihop Bancroft ; and maintaini a mafter, fourteen fellowi, and fixty fcholars. Sidney-SufTex college has a mafter, twelve fellows, and twenty-eight fcholars. The total number of fellowi in this univerfity is four hundred and fix, and of fcholars, fix hundred and fixty ( befidei whom there are two hundred and thirty- fix inferior ofiicers and fervants, who arc maintained upon the foundation. The fcholars above mentionetl, however, are not all the ftud:nts in the univerfity. There are two clafTes of ftudenti called penfioneri, the greater and the lefi. The former generally confifts of the young nobility, who are called fellow-comtnoncrs, becaufe, though fcholars, they dine with the fellows. The ftudenti of the other cla(^ diet With the fcholars, but both live at their bwn expence. There is alfo a confi- derable number of poor fcholari, called fizars, who wait upon tht fellows and fcholari, ai will ai on the penfioneri of both ranki, by whom they are In a great meafure maintained i but the number of thofi i^cnfioncri and fiaari, at different timei, li extremely variable. Though fabuloui narrativei afcribe the origin of this univerfity to a ¥try remote period, its authen- tic hiftory afcendi no higher than the reign of Henrjr I, who fuccceded William Rufui in the year iioo. About thii time the monaftery of Crowland orCroy- land, in Lincolnfhire, being confumcd by fire, Jof' fred or OeolFrey, the abbot, who wai poflcfTed of the manor of Catenham, near Cambridge, fcnt hither Giflabert, hii profelTor of divinity, and three other monks. I'he latter being fltilled in philofophy and the fciences, hired at Cambridge a barn, in which they daily read lectures, A number of fcholari foon aflembled, which in lefi than two years became fo great, that no fingle houfe being large enough to contain them, inns and halls were built for their accommodation, and the ftudenti were diftinguifhed into claflcs, to which diflTerent mafteri were appro- priated. The fociety ftill increafing, it at length obtained the name of a univerfity i but at what pre< cife period this happened, appears to be uncertain. The firft college, however, was founded in 1257, by Hugh Balfham, then prior of Ely, and afterwards bi« fliop of that diocefc 1 from which time other collegea were fuccefllvely erefled and endowed, till the univer- fity attained its prefent ftate of perfeAion. Cambridge ii fuppofed to have rifen out of the ancient Camboritum, or Grantcefter. It waa a for- tified town in the time of the Saxons i but after.^ 'vards being feized by the Danes, they kept here a garrifon till the year 911, when they were expelled by Edward the Elder. Towards the end of the ele- venth century William the Conqueror built at thii place a caftle, which is faid to have been a ftrong and ftately building. Some traces of it are flill to be fcen, and the gate, which remaini entire, ii ac prefent the county jail. In the reign of William Rufus, the town was burnt by Roger de Montgo- mery, in revenge of a fuppofed injury he had received from the king i but it was rebuilt by Henry I. who made it a corporation. During the oaroni wan it was often ravaged by outlaws, who took refuge in the Ifie of Ely. About the year 1219, however, Hrnry III. fecured it againft thofe incurfions, by a deep trench, which was called in Camden'i time the King's Ditch t but houfes having been fince built on both fides of it, that name has at length beeii forgotten. At Arbury, or Arborough, about a mile north of Cambridge, are the remains of a Roman camp, of confiderable extent, in which have been found many Roman coini, particularly one of filver, with the head of Rome on one fide, and on the other, Caftor and Pollux on horfeback. Over againft Arborough, to the fouth-eaft of Cam- blridge, and at a fmall diftance from it, are Gog-' ntagog-hilli, on the top of which is an intrench* ment. 430 T H B M O N [EUR0PS« w m«nt, of a tude circular figure, two hundred and forty-fix paces in diameter. It is fortified with three rampirei, and two intervening, dirchet. Some have imagined this camp to Oe Roinan, font* a retreat of the Danes, and othets^ a ftrong hold of the ancient Britons'. Caxton (lands- at the diflance of fifty-five miles ftim London, and ;* '•■ imall town, remarkable for mthing elfe but bci.i^ ii.e birth-place of William Gaxton, the fiift printer in England, who died in -he yar i486. Royfton has been already mentioned in the account of Hertfordfliire. Lyiiton is a little abfoure place,, fituated fifty>fix si'ies from London. Newmarket is fitusted fixty miles from London, partly in Cambridgcihire, rnd partly in the county of Suffolk^ the I'outh fide being in the former, and the north fide in the latter. Notvvithftanding its name, it is of iionfidi..,Me aiuiquityy and confifts chiefly of one ftreet, v;!;m Newmarket, is fitu- ated at the end of a caufeway tlircc miles long, which was thrown up by Henry Harvey, doAur of laws, nafter of Trinity-Hall, leading from Stourbridge- fait to Nc ."^arkct. This dyke bcgini on the eaft fide of the river Cam, and runs in a ficeigkt line a» far as Baliham. Five miles to theeaft, and one mils and a half diftant from Newmarket, is a fourth d:tch, which being, a ftupendous work, has obtained the name of Devil't-dyke, the common people fuppofing it to be more adequate to the power of fpirits than of men. It begins at Rech, atul running many miles f':r Nc-.vmarket- heath, ends r.er^r Cowledge. Some have imagined the S:ven- miles- dyke, or De- vil's Dyke, to be the work of Canute the Dane ^ but the Devil's dyke is mentioned by Abbo Floria- cenfis, a hiftorian whn died in the tenth century, •nd Cu.-^ute did not begin his reign till the com- mencement of the eleventh. In ancient times they were called St. Edmund's ditches, and were pro- bably the work of St. Edmund, king of the Eaft Angles. Cainbridgefhire is one of the counties anciently inhabited by the Iceni ; and under the Saxon liep- totchy it was included in the kingdom of the Eaft Angles, The principal manufaflures of this cuunty are paper, and wicker ware. It fends to parliament fix members, viz. two knights of the fliire, two re- prefentatives for Cambridge, and two for the uni.- verfity.. CHAP. X. Suffolk, Norfolk, and Rutlandjhirt, CUFFOLK is bounded on the weft by Canrw *"* bridgeOiire, on the north by the rivers Oufe the. Lefs, and Wavcney, which feparate it frjm Nor- folk ; on the eaft by^ ttle German ocr:,a ; and on the fouth by the river Stour, which divides it from Eflex. It extends in length from eaft to weft forty- eight miles, and in breadth twenty-four. This county is well watered with feveral rivers, the principal of which a:j Ouie the Lefs, the Wa- veny, the Stour, the Ekcbsrn, the Otwel, the Aid, and the Blith. The firft of thefe rivers rifes in this county, fui fcparat'ng it from Norfolk on the fouth. weft, falls into the Greater Oufe, near Downham, a market-town in the latter. The Waveney rifes alfo in Suffolk, and runs north.eaft^ where, parting this county from Norfolk, it falls into the Yarc near Yarmouth. The Deben< rifes near Mendleflum, a market- towB, whence running, fouth-eaft,. and pafCn* by Debenham and Woodbridge, it difchargea itf'elf irto the German fea, eleven miles fbuth of the latter. The river Orwel, or Gipping, has likewife its fource not far from Mendlefham :. running fouth- eaft, almoft parallel to the Debon, it pafles by Ipf- wich, to which, it is aawigable by great ihips, whence at the diftance of ten miles, it falls into the German ocean, with the Stour, both rivers forming one large mouth or .£ftuary. The Orwel does not flow much higher than Ipl'wich, but there the tide generally rifes twelve foot, though at low water the harbour is almoft dry. The river Aid rifes neai Ftamling- ham. England.] GENERAL T.IAVELLER. 4«i ham, whence running fouth-eaft, and pafling by Aid- borough and Orford, it falls into the German Tea • few milci from the latter. The Blith takes its fource near HaleJwortb, and running almoft dircAly eaft, difcharget itfelf into the German ocean at Southwold. Other lefs cor.fiderable rivers of this county are the Ore, the Berdon, and the Bourn or Lark. The air of SufFoik ia pure, pleafant, and healthy, and the foil is different in different parts of the county. Thofe that lie towards the fea are Tandy and full of heaths, but yield abundance of rye, peas, and hemp, and feed vaft flocks of fheep. The middle part of the county, which is called High Suf- folk, or the Woodlands, confifts chiefly of a rich, deep clay and marie, and produces wood and good pafture. The parts bordering on Eflex and Cambridge like- wife afford excellent pailure, and abound with corn, all except a fmall traA towards Newmarket, in Cam- bridgefhire, which is for the moft part a green heath. The milk of this county is reckoned the bed in England { and its butter, of which great quantities are fent to all parts of the kingdom, is alfo much eftcemed. It is obferved that more Turkeys are bred in Suf- folk and that part of Norfolk which borders upon it, than in all the reft of England ; London and the adjacer.i: counties being chiefly fupplied hence with this article. Fuel is here in great plenty ; High Suffolk affording wood in abundance, and Low Suffolk, or that part of the county which runs along the fea fide, being conftantly fupplied with coals from Newcaftlc. The moft general divirion of this county is into two parts ; the firft called the Franchife, or Liberty of St. Edmund, comprehends the weftcrn part of the county ( the fecond, called the Gildable Land, "on- tainiiig the caftern. Each part furnifhes a diftin£i grand jury at the county affixes. There are two other general divifions of this county into High Suflfblk and Low Suffolk, and it is farther divided into twenty-two hundreds. It lies in the province of Canterbury and diocefe of Norwich, and contains five hundred aad feventy-five pariihes. It has no city, butcomprifcs twenty-eight market-towns, which are, Aldborough, Beccles, Bildefton, Budd«fdalc, Bungay, Bury St, Edmund'kj Clare, Dabenham, Dunwich, Eye, Fremlingham, Hadley, Halfeworth, Haveril, Ipfwich, Ixworth, Lav«.-ibam, Leoftoff, Men- dlefham, Mildenhall- Needham, Nayland, Orford, Saxmundham, Southwold, Stowwarkct, Sudbury, and Woodbridge. The firft town on our route from Cambridge is Mildmhall, a large, populous place, fituated on the fiver Laik, r:>:Cy>eigbt miles from London, The ftreets U". fpaciaus and well-built. Here is a hand- fome church, with a lofty (Iceple, and a good har- bour for boktx- Clare ftands upon the river Stour, at the diftance of fixty-one miles from London, and is a little dirty town, with a fine church, and a manufaSureof toys. . No. 3s. Bury St. Edmund's, commonly called Bury, was originally .-^o'neJ St. Edmund'* Burgh, from m ab-^ bey founded here in honour of St. Edmund, kinj of the Eaft Angles, who was not only <- 'owned, but buried in this place, after being martyred by tht Danes about the year ioi2. This town is fituated feventy-five milea from London, iipok> the w«ft fide of the river Bourn or Lark, which, by an ifk of parliament in 1701, was made navigable from Lynrt in Norfolk, to Farnham, about a mile from this place. It is cncompafled with walls, three miles in circumference, and hat fve gates. The ftreets, of which tlici? i; a great number^ are fpacious and well-paved, and generally interfeA each other vt right angles. Here are two good parifti-churches in the fame church-yard { one di-dicated to St. M-iry, and the other to St. J.-.mes. The former was built in the year 1005, and rebuil', in 1430 ; ti.t latter was begun in 1500, but v:^ not quite finiflied till the Reformation, Both thofe churches are remarkable for their fymmttry, beautiful large windows, neat columns, and noble roofs. Here is a guildhall, a woolhall, a fhire-houfe, an aflerably room, and ah hofpital, or workhoufe, for thirty boys, whi^h was a fynagogue of the Jews, till they were expelled the kingdom in 1 1 79. HeW is alfo a grammar fchool, founded by Edward VI. and three chAtity-rchools, one for forty boys, and the other two for fifty girls. Prom its beautiful and healthy fituation, this place is called the Montpeli«r of England. It is much frequented by the nobility and gentry of the county, and has annually three fairs, one of which is per- haps the grcateft in England, k begins on St. Matthew's day, and lafts a fortnight, during which time all kind* of public diverfions are exhibited. In the middle of the market-place is a fine crefs, with a lanthorn and clock. Spinning is almoft the only manufaAure in this town. St. Edmund's Bury is generally believed' to hktt been the Villa Fauftini mentltmed^ by AiKb-ninus. Here was a mint in the reigns of Kdwai'd I. and f[. as well as in that of John } and this place has been famous for feveral parliaments or conventions of t'je ftates. Before the difiblutlon of the monafteries, chit town had a magnificent abbey, of which the gatv, that forms at prefcnt one ?.f thecntrice to the own, i* a nr*le monunSenf. - 'O-'^'- ^" ''** -»; " fljaj Sudbury is fiturted fifty^ faU)* lliilfes* ffom'LoAdiM; upon the l>«nk of the rivct Stour; by which it it alHioft furrounded. Th& iMildings in" general Me good, but the ftreets not bein^ paved, ait' ditty* in winter. Here are three haittflbme large' chnrthes, with a good bridge over the river ; and the to¥b carries on • confiderable trade in perjietuanat, ftji, and ferges. .illt.;. Lavenham, or Lanbam, i« diftant from London fixty-one miles, and is a \»fgt toiwn, fituated on U branch of the river Berdnn. It etxtfifts of nitin4 fine yarm The tenure of land call- ed -Borough £nglieen renewed. The houfes in thii town are not illtbtiiilt, but the Htua- ^ion being low, the ftreets af^gene/allyiiirly. .Here is a bandrqnfc church,' withiA fpire..- '^he ipkce has a coi)fidej74b|e'.ipai>ufa(Uure .ofnwo^jea-i.clqthi bmd trades nju^h jn <;orn,' . , ; n' ."^.'l.^t^ oil itjKil Bildcfiriqi, or Bilfton, lies fixty-tbtee AtikifroAi I;ondoii. : : The ftreets are dirty and the buildings. me^n j but hc>C;,is a good church, and'~ai large wodl'- .Jeitj manufadlpfy^ Brethenham, a little north of this place, is fuppofed by Camden to be the.Com- )y£toiMum mentioned by Anti^ninus. vj.-'-i .v: ; ,., Jxwtytfa is fitMated'feventyilhree milek' from Lon- don^ in the road tq.Yar^oMtht hwit contains' nothing worthy of note. Wu|pir, , ^vhich lies fouihward of. it^ is.fupppfed to have been vhe ancient Sitomagus. H^re are lar.ge d^p, trenches, which appear to baV« hegi) the; work of >the Romans< ..' <.:■■• ^tow-piarket ^^d^; up9n the I riv«r Orwell, four- teen miles ead of Bury St. Fdmund!** ilt is a large tojwpf and. has a .(paciou» beautiful -fihurch, with a fine, Aeepic, Hert;,. are fever'al gpod invs, with- i.a .5^aiity-fehoq), and a.nwrMifaAure of tammies, and pthpf Norwich ftv^ffs,,; >: ,ij,?^dham \i alft^jfufated on the bank bf the Qf- SV^ at. the diftancegof fevfnty-five mile* frotn Lon- Mvt ,::.Iiti.<>°.<^." h'd a good trade in bro»d cloths for Ruflia, Turkey, and otder parts ; but this it has' loft if^aoy^etrs, tho)%h it ftill has fome confideralle ^dffilert. S9uth-.weft .of this place is a village called sQff'fB. 2Wf'«'!> in; the Saxon langua^, fjgnified iht twm^fOffa ) .a^'jherfi are the ruiofi pf an old caftle, :fKi^-)'i° have ;l^een builcby OlFa, kin^ of Mercia. ,,,, TJie maaor,of Hemi|igto|i, ibuth-eaft of Needham, was held in fergeantiy by Baldwin de PcKcur, ivhofc name, according to Camden, alludes to the tenurr, which obliged him every Chrillmas-day, to exhibit in the royal prcfence a /a//«j, a fufflaiui, and a bum- tuliis, or as it is Called by other writers, a fallMs, a fufflust and a pettui j in plain tiiglifli, to lut a c3- ptr, to puff with his chetis, and to break wind. Such was the cuarfe and indelicate jollity of thofe timei;. Mandlefham is diftant from London feventy-fix miles, and is a mean dirty town, but has a handfome church. Bottefdale, or Buddefdale, is fituated on the bor- ders of Norfolk, at the diftance of eightyrone milej from London, in the road to Yarmouth. It is a ilrag. gling dirty town, with a frec-fchool, founded in th= reign of Queen Elizabeth, by Sir Nicholas Bacon, and endowed with feveral fcholarfliips for ftudents at' Cambridge. Eye is diftant from London ninety-two miles, .ind is almoft l'.irrounded by a brook. The buildings are mean, and the flireets dirty ; but here is a large handfome church, and a charity. fchool. The chief manufa^ures of this town are bone I.ce. I>«belihanvAands..on the river Deben eighf-two miles from London. The houfes in general aie meanly built, bu.t .being fituated on a rifing-grouncf, the ftreets are. clean. Here is a good chiirch,-with a market-place, and a charity- fchool ; but on accciiin't of the road*; being extremely bad, the town is Kitle Oequented. : : ^ , ' : iilpfwich is fituated on the north bank oj tlie rirrtr .fi)/,T(cll, or Gipping, at the diftance . of fixtyx igHt miles from London, It is a large populous town, and the tioufes in general are built after the ancient fusion. It formerly had twenty-one patifh-ehurches, Whiieh are qow reduced to twelves but there are two chapels in the corporation liberty, befides mcetin^- hpufvS Here is a ftee-fchool, with a good librBry, and three cfaarity-fchools, in two of which are feve-nty boys, and in the third forty girls. Here is alfo a workhoufe and two hofpitals, one for lunatics, called Chrift's Hofpitali and the other for ptjer old men and women, , exclufiVe of feveral alms-houfes ahd'a charitable foundation for the relief of 'the widows ami orphans of poor clergymen. This town has a ihli"*?- h^liifor the county fefiions. In one pare lof an aliti- ent monade^y are hpld the quarter-fflifions for xh?: IpfwichiidiVirion ; and another part of the fame mo- naftery is converted to a jail. Here is a town-haJl, a council-ch*intIcr,'iuid a large market-place, with a handfome crafs.in the centre. In this area ate com- modious fliambles, built at the cxpenco of cardimil Wolfey, wbo.-was a'butcher's fon in this town. The cardiiiial alfoi- began a college here, which, though he did not hnifh, Iliil beari his name. This town Jias a fione-brid^e over the river, with a convenient ^uay, fuid a rjiiom-honfc, but the har- bour was formerly much more commodious than^4t preftAt ( PR .^yhicb" account, the number of Ihips belonging to this place, as well as its trade by fee, has of late years much declined, A great quantity feNGLANlJ.] GEN'iiRAL TRAVELLER. 42 j as a handfome of corn, however, la exported hent to London, and Holland i and the town has atfo a confiderable trade to Greenland, The principal manufaflurei are linen and woollen clot, ■ Here it a greater number of gentry than in any other i6wn in Suffolk, except that of Bury St. Edmund's; and Ipfwich is reckoned one of the bed places in England for families that have bur fmall incomes, becaufc of eafy hcufe-rent, good company, and plenty of all forts of proviftons. Woodbridge (lands upon the weft bank of the Deban, at the diftance of feveniy-five miles from Lon- don. It is about a mile and a half in circumference ; the chief (Ireets are well-built and paved, but the others are dirty, and the houfes old and low. It has a fine church, with a (leeple, a good grammar-fchool, and an alms-houfe. Here is a market-place, in the middle of which ftands a handfome (hire-hall, where the quarter- feffions are held for a diftri£t of this county, called the Liberty of St. Ethelred and Audrey; and under the (hire- hall is a corn crofs. The river is navigable here by (hips of conlidcrable burden ; and the town has four or five docks for building (hips, with commodious quays and warehoufes. It /carries on a good trade to London, Ncwcaftle-upon- Tyne, and Holland, in butter, cheefe, fait, and plank ; and the Woodbridge Pinks and Hoys go to and frum London every week. Randlefham, norlh-eaft of Woodbridge, was a royal feat in the Saxon times ; and here Redwald, king of the Had Angles, is faid lo have kept his court. Framlingham is fituated at the didancr of eighty- fi.<; miles from London. Though indifferently built, it is pleafantly fuuated upon a clay hill, in a fruit- ful foil and a healthy air. Here is a large (lately church,, built of black flint, with a flecple upwards of a hundred foit high, and a free-i'chool, befides two hofpitals. Here is alfo a very handfome and fpa- cious market-place. It is univcrfally agreed that Framlingham is a town of Britifh original ; which was conquered by the Romans, after the defeat of Boadicea. Here are dill to be feen noble remains of a caftle, fuppofed to have been bujit by fome king of the Eaft Angles. It has been a large beautiful fabrick, and very ftrong. The walls are yit (landing, and are forty-four fciot high, and eight thick. They fupport thirttcn towers, each of which is fourteen foot high above the walls ; and two of them arc watch towers. The area in- «lofed by the walls of this caftle contains above an .4cre and a rood of l»nd. Bungay is fituated a hundred and one miles from London, upon the river Waveney, by which if is al- moll furrounded. It is a large, handfome town ; the houfes in general are well-built, but the (Ireets, for ,the mod part, unpaved. Here are two parifh-churches, one of which is .1 good flrudlure, with a beautiful '.(leeple. Here is alfo a grammar-fchool, endowed with with ten fcholarfliips for Emanuel college in Cam- ,br''lge. This town has a good market-place, with a bridge over the Waveney, and is much frequented by people from N'orfulk. , Here are Itill to be feen the ruins of » very (Irong ,»'U 4. caftle, built by the family of the Bigod3, elrh of Norfolk, before the reign of king Stephen ; and at Mettinghani, not far diftant, are the remains of a caftle built by fir John de Norwich, who died about the beginning of the reign of Richard II, Beccles ftands upon the river Waveney, at the dif> tance of a hundred and f'cven miles from London, It is a large, populous town, and the ftreeti are well- paved, but the buildings are mean, and many of them thatched. Here is a good church, and two free-fchools, wr|l endowed, one of which is a grammar-fchool,^ with ten fcholarfhips for Emanuel college in Cam- bridge. Belonging to this town is a common, which contains no lefs than a thoufand acres of land. LcoftofF is diftant from London a hundred and thir- teen miles, and is a little ftraggling town, fuuated oil a rock, which hangs over the fea. This place having been part of the ancient demefnes of the crown, has a charter, by which the inhabitants are exempted from ferving on juries, either at fefTions or aflizes. About a mile weftward is a church, and in the town a chapel, for the eafe of the inhabitants, whofe chief bulinefs is fifhing for cod in the North Sea, and for herring, mackrel, and fprats at home. Halefworth lies ninety- feven miles from Londoni and is an ancient, populous town, with a neat churchy and a charity-fchool. Its market is famous for vaft quantities of linen-yarn, which is fpun in the town and neighbourhood. Southwold is diftant from London a hundred and five miles, and is fituated upon a peninfula, formed bj the river Blith upon the weft, and the fea upon the eaft and fouth. It is a pleafant, populous town, ftrong by its fituaiion, and fortified by a few pieces of can- non. It has a large, i.rong.built church, and a draw* bridge over the river. There is a great refort of ma- riners to this town, and it carries on a confiderable trade in fait, old beer, herrings, and fprats. On the eaft fide of the town is a bay, called Solebay, that affords good anchorage, and is (beltered by a promontory about two miles farther fouth, called Eafton-Nefs. On the fouth fide of Eafton-Nefs is an excellent harbour, which, in the Dutch war, was the place of rendetvous for our fleets. Dunwich is fituated on the coaft of the German ocean, at the diftance of ninety-five miles from Lon- don, and is the oldeft town in the county, having been an epifcopal fee in the year 630. Here are faid to have been fifty-two churches and monafteries ; but all the churches have been fw; ' jwed up by the fea, except one, dedicated to All Saints. At prefent this is a poor place, confifting only of a few wretched cot- tages. It h;^s a charity-fchool, and an hofpital, for a mafter and five poor perfoas. Sprats are cured here in the fame manner as herrings kt Yarmouth in Norfolk. From feveral coins that have been found at Dun- wich, it is fuppofed to have been a Roman ftation. Saxmundham, or Saxlijgham, is diftant from Lon- don eighiy-flx miles, and is an obfcure dirty town, that contains nothing worthy cf note. Aidborough ftands eighty-eight miles from London, on the bank of th« Aid, and is pleafantly fituated in a peninfula. 424 HE MODERN [Europe. peninfuli, called SUughden Valley, formed by the river on the. weft fide, and the fea on the eaft and fouth. It conftfts chiefly of two ftreets, near a mile long, running parallel to each other ) the fea having feme years fince fwallowed up a third ftreet, which ran parallel to the other two. The ftreeti are clean, but the building! in general have the marki of poverty. There ia, however, a handfome church, upon a hill weft ward of the town { and on the river Aid a good quay, with warehoufes. The harbour is defended by feveral pieces of cannon, and a confiderable trade it maintained in fifli, particulaily fprats, folei, and lob- fters. There is hence a great eiiport of corn, and a trade to Newcaftle-upon-Tyne for coals. Orfurd it (ituated eighty eight miles from London, and derives its name from a ford over the river Ore, near the mouth of which itftandi. It was once a large, populous town, with a caftle, of which there yet remain fome towers, which ferve as land marks to veflels at fea. Hnre is a church } and on a promontory, called Or- fordnefs, not far from the town, is a light-boufe, for the direflion of feamen failing near the coaft. This promontory affords great (belter to (hips, when a north* eaft wind blows hard upon the fliore. Orford had for- merly a good harbour, but the fea having yvitbdrawn from it many years, the place has propo'tionably de- dined. In the time of the Romans, this county was part of the territory inhabited by the Iceni | and from the fimilitude c( the namei of feveral villages in Suffolk to the name Iceni, Camden conjedures this to have have been the diftrifl in which that people chiefly rc- fided. The viiiages which are fuppofed to retain the name ef the Ice.-^i are, IrVlineuam, fouth-weft of Milden- hall i Ickworth, about two miles from Bury St. Ed. munds ; and Icning, near Newmarket, upon the bor- ders of Cambridgelhire. The antiquity of Icklingham appears by many Roman coins that have been dug up in or near the place { and a large pot of Rowan coins were found at Ickworth, not many years ago. Under the Saxons, this county became part of the kingdom of the £sft Angles. Burgh cattle, upon the Waveney, near Varmouth in Norfolk, was a fortification ereded by the Romans, to guard the coaft againft the Saxon pirates, and i« fup- pofed to have been the Garianonum, where the Steble- rian hotfe had their fiation. Of tl is caftle, or fort, there are yet very confiderable rcmai:is. The eaftern wall continues in its original length, which is fix hun- dred and fixty foot, and at the height of feventeen or eighteen foot. On the outiide ef this wall are four round folid towers, each about fourteen foot diameter, and of equal height with the wall. They are joined to the wall, but in fuch a manner, that only a fmall part of the periphery is within it. The remains of tne fouthern wall are three hundred and fixty foot in length, and thofe on the north fide are about the fame extent, but the weftern wall is totally demolifhed. The materials of thofe walls and towers are flints, with Roman and Priti(h bricks, each of which are a foot and a half long, and almoft a foot broad. I The principal manufadlurci of Suffolk are wool- len and linen cloths. It fends fixteen member* to parliament, vis. two for the county, and two for each of the following towns, vi«. Ipfwich, Dun- wich, Orford, Aldborough, Sudbury, Eye, and St. Edmund's Bury. NORFOLK. Norfolk is bounded on the fouth by Suffolk, on the weft by Cambridgelhire, and on the north and eaft by the German Ocean : and it is fifty- feven miles in length from eaft to weft, and about thirty- five in breadth. The principal rivers of this county are the Greater and the Smaller Oufe, the Yare, and the Waveney. The firft two, as well as the laft of thofe rivera, have been already defcribed. The Yare rifet about the middle of thii county, and running eaftward, difcharges itfelf into the German fea at Yarmouth. The air of Norfolk, near the fea-coaft, i* aguifh, and otfaerwife unfalutaryj but in the inland parta it is healthy and pleafant, though frequently piercing. The foil is remarkably various, comprehending ara- ble, paftuie, meadow, woodlands, light fandy-greund, deep clays, heaths, and fens. The worft of thofe, however, are not unprofitable : the fandy heaths feed (heep and rabbits, and even the fens afford rich paf- ture for cattle. The natural produAion* of this county are corn,, cattle, wool, rabits, honey, faffron, herrings, and other fea-fifh in great abundance ; and in the Yare it caught a delicious fifh, called the ruffe, peculiar to this river. Jet and ambergris are fooaetimea found on the coafts of this county. Norfolk lies in the province of Canterbury ai.d diocefe of Norwich, and includes fix hundred and fixty pari(hes. It is divided into tMrty-one hundreds, and contains one city and thirty-two market-town*. The city is Norwich, and the market-towns are, Aldham, Attleborough, Buchanam-New, Burnham, Caflle-rifing, Ca(h)n, Clay, Cromer, Dereham-Eaft, Diffe, Downham, Fukenham, Foulfham, Harleftnn^ Harling-Eaft, Hickling, Hingham, Holt, Loddoo, Lynn-Regis, Methwold, Rapeham, Sechy, Snetf- ham, Swaffham, Thetford, Walfham, Walfinghaia» Watton, Wendham, Wurfted, and Yarmouth. Norwich is diftant from London' a hundred and' eight miles. It ftands upon the fide of a hill, and is reckoned to be fix miles in compafs j but a great part of this extent is occupied by gardens, which are intermixed with the houfes. The building* are ge- nerally iiregular, but neat and beautiful, and the town is populous. This city had a flint-ftone walli with forty towers, which was finilhed in 1309, awl is now much decayed, but ftUI contains twelve gates. Here were formerly fifty-eight parochial. churches and chapels, which are now reduced to thirty, fix churches bcfidet the cathedral. This i* a large, ancient ftrudlure, of excellent workmanfhip,. founded by bifhop Herbert, in 1096. The choir ii fpacious^ [Europe. Ik are wooU memberf to and two for r«rich, Dun- Eye, and St. Suffolk, on e north and ii fifcy-feven about tbirty- t the Greater ie Waveney. thofe rivers, re rifet about ng eaftwardf Yarmouth. A, isaguifli, inland parta ntly piercing, bending ara« iuidy-greund, srft of thofe, ly heaths feed brd rich paf- ity are corn» lerring*, and in the Yare iffe, peculiar re fooaetiawt nterbury ai^d hundred and >ne hundreds, larket-towns. rt-towns are, 1^ Burnham, ereham.Eaft, I, HarleftnD^ }lt, Loddon, echy, Snetf- Walfinghaa^ laoutb. hundred and' if a hill, and ) but a great US, which arc- dings are ge- ful, and the it-ftone walli n 1309, and taini twelve ht parochial, reduced (o )l. This is vorkmanfliip, l^he choir is fpacious,. A »-NV S'^ i ■»( ■^m . (■'■>■ jLrtam^efa tM'T&irta/ny Jfmnan er%J[nou/i/ac/if; ^Hi^^i^ LnuJaia^ i\ ^/"Ofn^ u (}//(^c/ic'n o/J>^'rT/^t6j fj/^cu/i/^uf *yVafio7i^^ England.] GENERAL TtLAYl^LLtA. 4^5 ffff^ fpacious, and the ftecple flrong, and very high. The roof in adorned with carved .vorlc, repreftnt- ing hillurii'al pafljges ii ':riptuie, and well exe- cuicd in wood. The bilhop'* palace, with the prebendaries houfes, round the clofe of the cathedral, make a very good appearance. The church of St. Peter of Mancroft is reckoned one of the fined pa- rilh churchet in England. Others of the churches, however, are thatched, and they all are ereded with flint ftone, curioufly cut, in the fame way as thofe in Italy are crufted with marble. Here are two churches for the Dutch and French Flemings, who have obtained particular privileges, which are care- fully preserved. This city has a {lately market-crofs of free-ffone, adjoining to which is a beautiful town-houfe. Here is alfo a houfe of correction, or Bridewell, cFegantly built with fqnarc flint flonei, ia nicely joined, that 110 mortar can be fcen. There is a grammar. fcliool, founded by Edward VI, the fcholari of which are nominated by the mayor, with the confent of the majority of the aldermen } belides twelve charity- fchooU, in which two hundred and ten boys, and a hundred and fourteen girls, ire taught, cloathed, and fupplied with books. Here are likewife four hofpi- tals, one of which, named St. Helen's, founded for the entertainment of Grangers, was, by Henry VIII, appropriated for the poor of the city, and-^aintains eighty poot- men and women, who are all cloathed in grey, and mud be fixty years of age before they can be admitted. Another of the hofpitals, called Doogh- tv's, it for fixteen poor men, and eight women, cloathed In purple. Of the other two hofpitals, one for the teaching, maintenance, and apprenticing thirty boys, and the other for making the fame pro- vifion for thirty girls { each founded by a mayor of this city. On a hill near the cathedral, ih the centre of the city, is a caftle, furrounded by a deep ditch, over which is a flrong bridge, with an arch of extra- ordinary fize. This caftle is fuppofed to have been built in the time of the SaKons, and is now the com- mon jail for the county. Here is an ancient palace belonging to the duke of Norfolk, which was formerly reckoned one of the Urged houfes in England ; and alfo fix bridges over the river Yare, which runs through the town, and is navigable to this diftance from the fea. Norwich was plundered and burnt by Sueno, king of Denmark, but recovered fo foon, that in Edward the Confeflbr's time it had one thoufand three hun- dred and twenty burgefles. It fulTered very much by the infurre£lion of Ralph earl of the Eaft Angles, againft William the Conqueror, in whofe time it uas befie^ed, and reduced to famine. In the reign of Stephen it was in a manner rebuilt, and made a corporation, I'he city of Norwich has long been famous for its manufactures, which are nor, however, at prefent in fo flouriOiing a (late as formerly. Thofe for which it is moft rematkabic are baize, ferges, fhal- No. 36. loons, cambleti, druggets, crapes, flockingt, and woollen cloths. The inhabitants of Norwich are generally fo em< ployed ir> their manufailures within doors, that the city has the appearance of being deferted, except on Sundays and holidays, when the ftrects fwarm with people. Caftor, near Norwich, was the Venta Icenorum, or capital city of the Iceni, thr broken walli of which contain a fquare of about thirty acres. In thof? walls may flill be perceived the remains of four gates and a tower. Several Roman urns, coins, anj other relics of antiquity, have been found at this place. Proceeding into this county from the eaflfern part of Suffolk, the firft town that we enter is Yarmouth. Thii place, called Great Yarmouth, tc diftinguiOi it frorii A fmall village in its neighbourhood, took its name from its fituation at the mouth of the ri- ver Yari. It is diftant from London a hundred and twenty-two rtiiles, and was anciently one of the cinque porti. This town is the neateff, the mofl compact, and regularly built, o; any in England. The flreets are flrair; and parallel to each others and theri is a view aerofs the town from the quay to the fea, the houfes ftanding in a peninfula be- tween the fea and the harbour, Ya'rihbuth is walled,' but the principal flrtngth by land is flie haven, or river, which lies on the wefl fide, with a draw- bridge over it. The port or entrance fecures the fouth, and the fea the eaft ; but the north, which' joins it to the main land, is open, and only covered with a fingle wall, and fome old demolifhed works. There is a fuiall platform of guns • on a flip of land, at the entrance of the harbour, which is all the fecurity of this town ; the great guns that were planted round the walls having been removed by Charles II, Here are two churches, of which that of St, Ni- cholas, built in the reign of Henry I. has fo high a fleeple, that it ferves as a fea mark. There is alfo a fine hofpital, with two charity- fchools for thirty- five boys and thirty-two girls, who are all cloathed and taught, the boys to make nets, and the girls fpinning, knitting, and plain work. The market-place is the fineft and beft furnifhed of any in England (or its extent ; ahd the quay is perhaps the handfomeft and largeft in Europe, that of Seville in Spain only excepted. It is fo com- modious, that people may ftep direAly ftom the (hore into any of the (hips, aftd walk from one to another, as over a bridgej fometimes for a quarter of a mile together. It as at the fame time fo fpacious, that in fome places it is near a hundred yards from the houfes to the wharf. On the wharf is a cuf- tom-houfe and tcwn^hall, with feveral magnificent houfes belonging to merchants. This town is bound by its charter, granted by Henry III, to fend annually to the (herifFs of Nor- wich a hundred herrings, baked in tWenty - four pafties, which the (herifFs are to deliver to the loi'd 5 O of 4t6 THE MODERN [Europe. I I of the manor of the EaR Carlton, a village near New Buchenham, He gives the nteriDa bit receipt for them, ind, by his tenure, is obliged to prefent them to fit king. The fituation of Yarmouth is exceedingly com- modioui for trade, the Yare being navjgable thence to Norwich. There is alfo a navigation from this town, by the VVavency, to the louih parts of Nor- folk, and the north of Suffolk i and by another river, Thyme, which falls here into the Yare, it trades to the north part uf the county. Though Yarmouth is not fo large as Norwich, it is generally fupcrior in traffic and wealth. This is the chief rendezvous of the colliers between Ncwcaftle and London. The roads on the eall fide of the town are fo fafe, that they are very much frequented by veflelt which pafa and repafs, though there are fome dangeroua banks of fand in the neighbourhood i and it cofti the in- habitants of Yarmouth between two and three thou- fand pounds a year to keep the harbour clean. This town carries on a great trade to France, Holland, and the northern countries, and exports great quantities of corn and malt. It hu the whole herring fiihery of this coall, in which it employs ■ hundred and fifty velTels, and between forty ud fifty fail in the expurution. Fifty thoufand barreU of herrings, containing no left than forty pailliont «f thofe fifhes, are generally taken and cured bcm in a year. . , The fifhing fair here, or the feafpn for catching herrings, begins at Michaelmaa, and continues all the month of 0£lober, during which time, every veflfel that comet to fiAi for the merchants, from any part of England, is allowed to catch, bring in, and fell their fifb, free of all duty or toll. In the fpring, here is almoft at great a filhing for mackarel i bef^es which, tlfis town hat a fifhing trade to the north feas, for white fifh, called the North Sea Cod. Jt has ^llo a confiderable trade to Nor- way apd the Baltic, for deals, oak, pitch, tar, and all naval flores, which are moflly confumed in this port, where a great number of fhips are built every year. Yarmouth is thought by many to have rifen outof the ruins of a Roman city, called Garianonum, where the Stablefian horfe lay in garrifon againft the ancient Britons s but the.fite of Garianonum is by others con^ je£lured to have been at' Burgh CaAle, on the other fide of the river Yare, about two njiles from Yarmouth,. Laddon is diftant from the Bnitiib; capital a hun- dred and five miles, and contains nothing worthy of any remark. Woriled, or Wurfled, is fituated a hundied and fevcnteen miles from Loudon, and is remarkable for the invention or firft. twining of that fort of woi^i^len yarn or thread, which has hence received the name of woriled. Here is a manufacture of worAed fluffs ; and (lockings are both knit and woycn in this place, in grear quantities. , Cronier lies a hundred and -twenty feven miles from iLpndon. It has a harbour, and was formerly a much larger town than at prefent, having had two parifli-churches, one of which, with many houfes, was fwallowed up by an inundation of the fea. The town, however, it yet not inconfiderable, and is chiefly inhabited by fiflicrmen, employed in catching lobftcrs, which are taken here in great quantities, and carried to Norwich, and fomeiimes to London. Holt is • (mail obfcure town, a hundred and fix- teen miles dillant from London, Alefham lies a hundred and nineteen miles from London, and it a populous, but poor town, inhabited chiefly by knitters of ftockings. Here Is a court kept for (he duchy of Lancafier, the manor having been granted by Edward IIL to John of Gaunt, duke of Lancafier. Cation, or Cawllon, is a fmall town, dillant from London a hundred and twenty-eight miles, and re- markable only for a bridge over a little river called the Burc. Difle it fituated on the Wavcney, at the dillancc of ninety-three miles from London, and has a cha> rity fchool, the only thing worthy of notice. Buchenham.New it diftant from London feventy- nine ipilct, and it thus named by way of diftin£lion froJBi Old Buchenham, a village in its neighbourhood. Here was formerly a fine ilrung caflle ; and the lords at this manor claim the privilege of adiing as but* lers at the coronation of our kings, Attleborough is ninety- three miles diflant from London, and was anciently not only a city, but the chief town of the county, and had a palace, and a collegiate church. It is ilill a confiderable town, and has a good market for fat bullocks, (heep, and other cattle. Windham, or Wimundham, is fituated ninety>' nine miles from London. This is a fmall town, and the inhabitants are generally employed in making of fpiggets and foflet.i, fpindles, fpoons, and other wooden ware. They enjoy their writ of privilege, as an ancient demefne, from ferving at affixes or fef- fions. Here is a free-fchool, a ch.''''ity-fchool, and a houfe of correal ion, Rapcham is fituated a hundred and eleven miles 'from London, and wbs formerly famous for having three fine churches in one churchyard, belonging to three feveral lordfhips. At prefent, however, there remains nothing more of thofe churches than tho ruins of one. The chief trade of the town is in- malt, of which great quantities are fold in its matket. V/alfingham lies a hundred and fixteen miles from London, and is no inconfiderable town Here are the ruins of an ancient munaflery, where was a (hrine of the virgin Mary, as much frequented at one time as that of Thomas Bcckct at Canterbury. Tiie foi4 :rot&id this'town Is remarkable for produc- ii^ good llifrroi):and fouthernwond. Fakcnliam is dIDaiit from London a hundred and Ici) miles, and had anciently fait pits, though fix miles from the fea. On a hill in the neighbour- hood of this town is kept the (lieritls term, and a court for the whole county. ..-li.. <.ji i 6 Dereham, E^ nit lov England.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 427 Dereham, Miirket- Dereham, or Dr.eham-Euft, lies ninety-fcveii mites from London, and is a fine large town with I'everal hamlets belonging to it. Hingham is fltuated ninety-four miles from Lon- don. About the beginning of (his century it had the misfortune to be burnt down, but was ''ion rebuilt in a handfomc manner | and the inhabitants were fome years ago reckoned fu falhionable, that in the neighbourhoud this town was called Little London, Hatling Eaft is thus dininguiflied in refpecSl of its fituatioii to two villages lying weftward of it, calltd We(t-Harling, and Middle-Harling. It is diftant from London eighty eight miles, "id has a market, chiefly for linen yarn, and cloth. Watton ftands eighty nine miles from London. It has a church which is only twenty yards long, and eleven broad ■, and the fleeple, which has three laige bells, is round at bottom, and ofiangular at top. Great quantities of butter are fent fr«m this place to Downham- bridge, whence it is conveyed by wa- ter to London. Thetford Hands in a pleafant open country, at the diftance of eighty miles from London, and takes its name from being fituated on a fmall river called the Thet. It is divided by the Little Oufe, which alfo feparates this county from Suffolk. This appears to be a town of great antiquity. In 672, the archbifliop of Canterbury held « fynod here. The Saxon kings made it the metropolis of the kingdom of the Kaft Angles i but it was three times deftroyed by the Danes. At the time of the Conqueft, the chief magiftrate of this place was fty led aconful, whence it is fuppofed to have been a Roman town. In the twelfth century it was the fee of a bifhop, and then a place of great note, but declined on the tranflation of the fee to Norwich. Under Henry VIII, it was reckoned a place of fo much confequence, at to be made a fuf- fragan fee to Norwich, but it retained this didinc- tion only during that reign. This town had formerly a mint, and was honoured with the prefence of many of our fovereigns, parti- cularly Henry I. and Henry II. Queen Elizabeth and James I. made it one of their huncing-feats ; and the latter had a palace here, which is ftill called the king's houfe. The Lent Affixes for Norfolk are commonly held in the guiMhali of this town. Thetford arofe from the ruins of the ancient Sito- magus, a R iman city, which was deftroyed by the Danes. Here ate yet many marks of great antiquity, particularly a large mount called Caftle-hill, thrown up to a great height, and fortified by a double ram- part, fuppofed to have been a Danifh camp. Swaftham is diftant from London ninety-four miles, and has a fumptuous church, the north ifle of which is faid to have been built by a travelling petMar. This town is famous for the manufacture of fpurs, and in the neighbourhood are frequent hnrfe-racet. Snetlham is fituated ninety-nine miles from Lon- don, and was once a royal demefne, with many pri- iilcges. Caitle-Rifing (lands ninety-feven mileb from Lon- don, on a high eminence, and takes ill name from an old caflle ncir it, At prefcnt, it hardly -rontaint ten families, but is a borough by prefcription, and was formerly a confiderable place, till its harbour was choaked up with fand, Here is, however, an hofpital for twelve poor men, and an alms-houfe for twenty-four poor widows, both founded by the fa- mily of the Howards, In the neighbourhood of this (own there is a park, and a large chace, with the pri> vileges of a foreft. King's Lynn, or Lynn Regis, is fituated ninety- eight miles from London, and is fo named by way of dilliiiftion from three villages in this county, called Weft-Lynn, North-Lynn, and Old-Lynn. It was formerly called Biftiop'sLynn, becaufe it belonged to the blDiop of Norwich 1 but having come by ex- change into the handi of Henry VIII. it alTumed its prcfent name, Lynn is a large, well-built, and flourifhing town. It has a fpacious market-place, in which is a ftatue of William 111. and a fine crofs, with a dome and gallery round it, fupported by fixteen columns. The market-houfe is a free-ftone building, after the mo- dern tafte, feventy foot high, and adorned with fta- tues, and other embellifliments. Here are two parifh-churches, St. Margaret's, which has a fine library, and that of All-Saints. There is alfo a chapel of eafe, dedicated to St. Ni- cholas, which is reckoned one of the handfomeft of the kind in England. It has a ball tower of free- ftone, and an o£iagon fpire over it, which together are a hundred and twenty foot high ; and there is in it a library erected by fubfcription. Hue like* wife is a prefbyterian and a quaker meeting-houfe, with a bridewell, and feveral almi-houfes, a free- fchool, a good cuftom-houfe, with a convenient quay and warehoufes. Here is a town-houfe, called Trinity-hall, which is a noble old fabric ; and there is an exchange of free-ftone, with two orders of columns, built at the expence of Sir John Turner. Four rivulets run through this town ; and the tide of the Oufe, which is about as broad as the Thames at London bridge, rifes twenty foot perpendicular. The fituation of Lynn, near the mouth of the Oufe, enables it to extend its trade into eight different coun- ties ; fo that it fupplies many confiderable cities and towns with heavy goods, not only of our own pro- duce, but imported from abroad. It deals more largely in coals and wine than any other town in England, except London, Briftol, and Newcaftle. In return for thofe commodities, Lynn re-'-iyes for exportation all the corn produced in thcfe counties ; and of this Angle article it exports more than any other town in the kingdom, except Hull in Yorkftiire, Its foreign trade is very confiderable, efpecially to Holland, Nor- way, the Baltic, Spain, afid Portugal. The harbour ia fafc when once fhips get into it, but the pafHige hav- ing many flats and (hoals, it is difficult to enter. This town has' had fifteen royal charters. Every firft Monday of the month, the magiftrates and the preachers meet to hear and determine all controverfies • between 4a8 t H M O N [Europe. between the inhabitants in an amiirahle miiniier, In order to prevent law^fuil]. Tim pra^i^lce tvis liiil cA^bliOied in I5fl8, and is called the Fcjii ot Kccuii- ciliatian. In the civil war, Lynn held out for kin|> Charles I, and fudaincd a fornul fiege above three weeks, u^itinli upwards of eighteen thoufand men | but wai at Uii^iii obliged to furreiider, and pay ten (lullings a head lor every inhabitant, befides a month's piy to the (uldicrs, to prevent the town from b.;in|j plundered, Downhatn Hands upon the Great Uufc, at the iliffance of eighly-ninc miles from Loddon, It has a bridge over the river, and a port Tor barges. Muthwold (lands ninety- fcven miles from London, And is remarkable for breeding excellent rabbits, called JVIewil rabbits. Norfolk is pai^ of the dlflriift anciently inhabited by the Iceni, Brancadcr, in the north-well part of this county, and near Uuriiham, was the Braiinodunum uf the Romans, and the llation fur a body of Dalmatian horfe. I'hc principal manufai^ures of this county arc, worlled, woollens, i nd filks, in which all thu inland parts arc employed. Norfolk fends twelve members to parliament ( two for the county, two for the city of Norwich, and two for each of the following towns, viz. Lynn Regis, Yar- moutbj Thetfutd, and CalUe-Rifing. RUTLANDSHIRE. Rutlandfliire Is bounded on the fouth and fouth'eaft by Northamptonfliire i on the weft, north- wed, and fouth-wcH, by Leiclcrfhire v and on the north, and north-call by Lincomfhiie, It is the fmalleft county in Epghnd, niearuring fropi north to fouth only fif- tern miles, and from eaft to weft ten nviles. It is wa- tered by two rivers, the Welland and the Gwafh. The Wetland rifcs in Northamptonfliire, and running acrofs that county, enters Lincolnfhire, whence pafling by fe- veral market-towns, it difcharges itfelf into a bay of the German ocean, called the WaOies. The Gwafh, or VVafli, as it is commonly called, rifes near OVcham, in a diftriiSt of the county furrounded with hills, and called the Vale of Catmofc ; from vvlilch place running eaftward, and dividing the county nearly into two equal parts, it falls into the Welland, not far from Stamford in Lincolnfhire. The air of RutlandOiire is eftecmed as good as that of any county in England. The foil is fruitful, efpe- cially the Vale of Catmofc, which, is equal to any in the kingdom. This county produces cattle, particu- larly fhecp, and the rivers yi .'d abundance of fifh. Htrc is alfo wood in great plenty for firing, Rutlandshire is divided into live hundreds ; it has no city, and contains only two market-towns. It lies in the province of Canterbury, and diocefe of Peter- borough, and is divided into forty-eight parilhes. The market- towns are Okeham and Uppingham, Okcham is pleafantly fituated in the Vale of Cat- mofc, ninety-five miles north of London ; and has an ancient caftle, altnoft in ruini, which wai built by Walkelin de Fcrariii, in the reign of William the Conqueror, In (his caftle is a hall, called the Sliire- liall; where the alfizei are held, and the public bufiniT:! rif the county tranfai^Ud, The town is not ill-builr, and has a church dedicated to All Saints, which is a line llruCture, and with a lofty fpire. Here are a fice* iVhoul, » charily- fchoul, and two hofpitab. In this town is preftirved ai> ancient cuftom, whicli requires that every peer of the realm, the full timd he comes within the prccindls of this lotdfliip, fliall forfeit a flioc from the hnrfe on which he ridi», tu the lord of the calllc and manor, unlefs he agreri to redeem it with money. In the latter cafe, a Uioe i* made according to his dirciiliuns, ornamented in pro- portion to the fuin given by way of fine, and naiici on the door of uu callle hall. Some of thofe fboes arc of curious workmuiiflup, and ll.imped with ths nanus of the doiior>i ionic arc made very lar^c, antt I'ome gilt. In this town w.is born, in 1619, a prrfun namc(t Ji'ftVey Hudfon, who, when fcven years old, w-ts n >t more than fifteen inches high, though his patents, whey had feveral other children of the ufual fi>e, were talk and lufty. At the age above mentioned he was taken into the family of the duke of Buckingham ; and 10 divert the court, which, in a progrefs thro.ii^h thi» county, was entertained at the duke's feat at Burley- on-thc-Hill, he was ferved up t& table in a cold pye. Between the fcventh and the th.itieth years of his age, he advanced only • few inches in ftature, but loon af> ter this period he fhot up to the height of three foot nine inches, which he never exceeded. He was given to Henj-ietta Maria, confort of king Charles I. whf> kept him about her perfon as a curiofity. In the civil wars he was made a captain of horfe in the king's fervice, and he accompanied the queen to France, from which kingdom he was baniflicd for killing a brother of lord Crofts, in a duel on horfe. back. He was afterwards taken at fea by a Turkifh corfair, and was many years a flave in Barbary, ; but being redeemed, he came to England, and in 1678, upon fufpicion of being concefned in Oates's plot, was committed prifoner to the Gatehoufe in Weftminfter, where he lay a confiderable tin.e, but was at Icngtlt difchargcd, and died in 1682, at the age of fixty- three. At Ketton, a village foith-eaft of Okeham, there is a rent collciSled yearly from, the inhabitants, by the flierifF of the county, of two (killings, pro tcrtis ri- giiMt ot for tlit quetn'i hott. The occafion ot this tax is unknown. At Burley-on-the-Hill, a pleafant village near Oke> ham, is a feat belonging to the earl of VVinchelfea, which is reckoned one of the fineft in England. Market-Overton, a village three miles from Over- ton, is fuppofed to have beeu the Roman (lation, called Margidunum by Antoninus. Uppingham is fituated eighty-feven miles from Lon- don, on a rifing-ground, and is a near, well-built town, with a free-fchool and an hofpital. Here the ftandard iat Enoi for the I pointed! town \i In tH habitedl formed | ittiirkab only IV England.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 4a> for the wcighli ind meifurci of the county ii ip- pointed to be kept, by a ftatute of Henry VII, I'hii town ii famous for horfe-racei. In the time of the Romani, Rutlandlhire was in- habited by the Coricani ) and under the Saxoni it formed a pail of the liingdom of Mcrcia, It ii not re- markable for any manufaAure, and fendi to parliament only two memberii who are knighta of the (hire. CHAP. XI. LcUtfiirJhirt, StajftrJJhirt, Shnpjhiri, and Chtjhirt. r KICESTKRSHIREis bounded on the eaO •*-' by Rutlandfhire and Lincolnfhire, on the fouth by Northamptonfliire, on the weft by parti of War- wickfliirc and Staflordfliirc, and on the north by parts of Detbyfhirc and Nottinghamfhire. It extendi from eafl to weft about thirty mile], and from north to fouth about twenty- five. The principal riven of this county are, the Wel- land, the Soar, and the Anker, The firft of thefe has been mentioned in the account of Rutlandfliirc, The Soar, or Soure, rifes about half-way between Lutterworth and Hinkley, two market-towns of this county, and running north-eaft, by Leicefter, receives the Eye, another river of this county \ after which, di- reAing its courfe north-north-weft, it falli into the Trent, a few mile* north of Afliby de la Zouche. The Anker hai iti fource near that of the Soar, and running north-weft, and dividing Leicefterlhire from Warwicklbire, fall* into the Avon, a river of the latter county. The air of this county i* healthful, and the foil in general very good, affording plenty of corn, grafs, and beans, the latter of which is excellent, even to a proverb, Tht north-eaft part, however, which borders upon LincolnOiire, is not remarkable for iti fertility j but the defeA is in great meafure compenfated by the abundance of pit-coal, and with the vaft number of cattle that feed upon the mountains, particularly flieep, the wool of which is much efteemed. LeicefterOiire, in general, is well provided with corn^ filh, fowl, and cattle, efpecially horfcs for the draught ; but the fouth-weft part, bordering upon Warwickfliire, though it abounds with corn and pafturc, is but indifferently fupplied with fuel. This county lies in the province of Canterbury, and dioccfc of Lincoln, and has a hundred and nine- ty-two pariflies. It is divided into fix hundreds, and contains twelve market-towns. Thefe are, Alhby de la Zouch, Rillerdcn, Bofworth, Hallaton, Harborough, Hinckley, Leiccft.T, Loughborough, Lutterworth, Melton. Mowbray, Mountforcl, and Waltham-on-the> Would, Proceeding from Rutlanddiire, the firft town we meet is HalL->ton, fituated eighty miles from London. It has a charity-fchool, and is only remarkable for its poverty in the midft of a rich foil. Uillerdon ftands feventy-two miles from London, No. 36. and i* a little obfcure town, in which there is no- thing worthy of not*. Melton, called Melton-Mowbray, from a noble fa- mily of that name, to which it formerly belonged, is fituated in a fertile foil, at the diftance of a hundred and four miles from London, and ii almoft incom- pafted with the river Eye. It is a l.irge, well-buil{ town, has two fine bridges over the Eye, with a hand- fome church, and a free-fchool. Here are frequent races, and the moft confiderable market for cattle of any in this part of England. Wahham-on-the-Would is fi:uated near a hilly, heathy ira£>, called Wrekin-in-the Would, at tliu diftance of ninety-one miles from London, It is a mean, poor town, but has a charily fchool . Loughborough ftands at the diftance of a hundred and fcven miles from London, upon ihc river Soar, and is a large well built town, but h.ij been very much diminiOied by fires. It has a large church, and a Creefchool, befidca a charity fchool for eighty boys, and another for twenty girls, Mountforel, properly Mount-Soar hill, lies a hun- dred and four miles from London. It is partly fituated in the parifli of Burrow, and partly in that of Radcley, and had formerly two chapels, though it has now only one. It hai a bridge over the Soar, but is not remark, able for any other particular. Leicefter ftands ninety-nine miles from London, and is waflied on the weft and north fides by the river Soure. Under the Saxon heptarchy this was the chief city of the Mercian kingdom, and was then the fee of a bifhopi but the fee being removed after a fucceflion of eight prelates, it fell to decay. In the year 914, however, it was repaired, and fortified with new walls, after which it became a wealthy town, and had thirty- two parifli-churches } but rebelling againft Henry II. it was befieged and taken, the caftle demolilhcd, and the walls thrown down, A parliament was held here- in the reign of Henry V, In the civil war the army of king Charles I. took it by ftorm, and it was foon after retaken by Sir Thomas Fairfax. This is ftill the largeft, bcft-built, and moft po- pulous town in the county. Here are fix pariflies, though but five churches. One of the churches ii dedicated to. St. Margaret, and is a noble ftru£lure. It is faid that Richard III. who was killed at the battle of Bofworth, was interred in it ; and that his ftone coffin has been converted into a (rough for horfe:i to drink at, belonging to the White horfe inn, In the High-ftreet is a crofs of excellent wnrkmanfliip, in form of that on which our Saviour was crucified, ha hofpital, built for a hundred poor fick pcrfons, by Henry the firft duke of Lancafter, who was interred in it, continues ftill in a tolerable ftate, being fupported by fome revenues of the duchy of Lancafter. But th; moft ftately edifice here of the kind, is an hofpital built in the reign of Henry VIII. for twelve men and as many women. It has a chipel, and a library, for the ufe of the miniftcrs and frholars of the town. Here is alfo an hofpital for fix widows, and a charity- fchool. 5P T1»e 430 TUB MOD N [EuRore. Ewe ; 'f I'he iiihibliinii of thii tdwn )i)ve greatly inipcovcJ , III il^rburounh » and chilJccii are ihrtattncJ witli lh« maiiufudluie oF lluikini^i, of whiiti ihcy weave valt quantiiiei. I'hc nuikcl here is uiie of iho Krcjicit ill Kngland for provifiDiH, cr|iecully cnrii anil C4llle. AlmoO ailjciiniii){ tu S(. Nichuhi church, i> mi old Willi called Jewry Wall, coiiiixifcd of rag-n and Roman brickt. In it are Tevrrjl nichca, of an oval ticinii " thrown into llartioroiiKh ficlJ,' Lutherworih i< fiiuated cij^hty four milei front Lon. (Ion. ilcrc ii a church, in which ii (till tu b« Aeu the (lul^it uf llie fanioui rcfuiiiier, Juhn Wickiitf, who W4> iiiiut of iht iiaridi. )lufworih i> plcafanily fituaied, at the difl.ince of • figure, whiin |'r»biib!y wcic ihc ri'r(|iuclci of Kunian hiinilred and four niilci from l.oiulun. Here ia a free* uriii, though the mhabilanti luvc an extravagant no- Ichnol, but nuihiiig elfc wuithy ul note, tion, that III thrl'e nichet the Jiuienc Uritont ull'ciciJ In a moor near this town was fuiiglit the famous up their children to iduli. I battle of Kofworlh field, between Kichard III, and LeicclUr (l.iiiiU on a branch of VVuilingftreet, Ikiiry earl of Richmond, aficrwanls king Henry VII. called the Kulb^w.iy, and ii fuppofcd by Camden to be j I.eiccfterfhire ii part of the diflrid which, i>i th« the Ralae of Aiitoninut, and the Rag* uf Ptolemy, llj time of the Romans, wai Inhabited by the Curilani ^ appears to have been a place of no inconfidcrablc note and under the heptarchy it formed part of the kini'* in the time of the Konuii. ) and from the multitude Join of Mcrcia. The principal bufincfi of this county of bones of various animals, fuppofcd to have been is agricilture } having no maiiufaflurc but that of offered in facrificc, and whiih have been dug up in a Oockiiigi, which, however, is confiderable, Leiceftcr- part of this town, flill called Huly-bnncs, where are j (hire fends four members to pailiameni, vix. two fufl likewife funic ruins of ancient hiick-work, it ii con- ' the county, and two fur the borough uf LciccQer. jciHured that here was anciently a temple dedicated to Janui i out of the ruins of which, it is farther fup- pufcd St. Nichulab'k church was built. Near the church of All Saints, upwards of half a ccntuiya£u, was difcovcrcd a curious piece of Roman j antiquity, Aippofed by foinc to be the fable of Diana j (Itire, on the fouth by Worcellerfhiic, un the well by and Alteon, wrought in little ftoncs, funic white, and i Shffoplhire, on the north-wed by Chcfhirc, and on STAFFORDSHIRE. StafFurdfliirc ii bounded on the caA by Leiccllcr- othcrs uf a chclnut colour. Near the town ii a cadle, which, though now dif- tnaiitlcd, has been a building of great extent, and wai the place where John of Gaunt, duke of Lancaller, held his court. He enlarged ic with twenty-fix acres the north-call by DerbyHiirc. lu fij\mu approachc* that of a ihombui ur lozenge. It extends from north to foutb forty miles, and frum call to w«ft twenty-fix. The principal rivers of this county are, the Trent, of ground, inclofed it with a high wall, and called iti the Dove, the Thame, or Tame, and the Sow. I'he Novum ipus. It is now called Newark, a corruption Trent is efleemed the third river in England, and rifes oi Nitv-wtii, and is the fite of fome of the bell j from two or three fprings in the north-weft part of this county, near Leak, a market-town. It runs fouth-eaft. and dividing StafFordlhire nearly into two etjual parts, enters DerbyO)>e near Burton i whence proceeding houfcs in or near Leiccller. Thefe houfei are extra- parochiut, as being under callle-guard, by an old grant from the crown. The hall and kitchen of the canic arc llill entire. In the furmer of thefe, which is ! north-eafl, thro rh the counties of Derby, Notting- vcry lofty and fpacious, are held the aflizes and , ham, and Lincoi.i, :t falls into the river Humber, courts. One of the gateways of this callle has a very north of Burtca in Lincolnfliirc, The Dove rifes in curious arch; and in the tower over it is kept the j the Peak of Derby, and running fuuth-eall, divides magazine fur the county militia. Derbylhire from Stallbrdlhire, falling afterwards into Nut far fioni Lciccflcr has been difcovered the re- the Trent, a few miles north of Burton in this mains of wh.it is fuppofcd to have been a hot bath in county, the time of the Romans. It is conflruiSled of fmall I 7'he Thame rifes in the fouth part of this county, Itcjiics, each about an inch long, half an inch broad, ' not far from Wolverhampton, and runs fouth-eall in- aiid half an inch thick. The roof is arched, and the to Warwicklhire, where diredling its courfc north- building perforated by feveral pipes, through which, it | ward, it again enters StalFordlhire near Tamworth, a is imrigincd, the water has been conveyed. The Hones few miles north of which place it falls into the Trent, arc finely cemented by a thin mortar, and the whole ! The Sow rifes not far wcRward of Newcaftle-undcr- Wfirk, which was confiderably beljw the furface of the ' Line, whence running fouth- eafl, and paflint; by the ground, is faid to have been about fix yards long, j town of SlalTorJ, it falls into the Trent, about three and fuur broad. Of its height no account is deli- ! miles call of that town. vcrcd. 1 Other Icfs confiderable rivers of this county are, Harborough is diftant from London eighty-four Walfcl-water, the Black Brook, the Penk, Ecdeihall- miles, in the road to Derby, It has a good free-fchool, water, the Charnct, and the (lamps, and a handfonic chapel of eafe to Great Bowden, its! Tlx air of StalFordfliire is in general pure and parifli. Here is a great maiket for horfcs and colls. It healthy, but in fome parts Iharp and cold, particu- is obfcrved of this town, that there are no lands be-: larly in the mountainous places, north-well of a mar- longing to it i which gave rife to .•. proverb among the kct-town called Stone, iuhabitantr, " that a goofe will cat up all the grafsj The arable and paflurc land is excellent ; and even ' (b* ENnLANP] f; E N F. R A r, TRAVELLER. 43 » lh« mountainoui pirti, by gouii lilljgr, will yicM grcit cropi of corn \ but ihey ire trourkublo for ■ fliori iniJ (wnt %i*h, which makei c«iil« vtry f«t. On the b4nki uC the Trent and ilie Duvr, the niei^ (luwi are ai ricli hi any in Kn^l.iiul, .iiiJ m.iinuin great dairici, which I'upply ih« mirketi with valt i|iianiiiiei u( butter aiiij ched'e. The riven uAurd plenty i)f alinoll all fuitt of frclh water fill) i .iml the coiiiiiy in |>cncral abouiidi with provilioni of all kindi. Befidei abundance of turf and peal for firingi thii cuunty yicldt three lurls of coil), which arc diltin- guilbcd by the njme< of pil-coal, pracoc k-coal, and canncl-coal. The pitcoal la Jug chiefly in ihe fuuth pare of the county, at 'Vcdnclbjry, Dudley, and Scil(;cly, not far from W ulverhampion. The pcjcock- Ciul, fo culled from ill reflcilling various culuurs, like thole ol .1 pejcock'i tuil, m found at iieiiley-green, near Newcalllu-undcr-I.ine, and it better fur the forge than fur the kitchen, The c;inncl-cual yields a blight fijine, and bt'lng fo hard ai to bear polifhing, it ii ufed in ihii cuunty for paving churchei, and other public buildingi. It ii alfo manufadlurcj into fnutf-boxci, and other toys. Under the furface of the ground, in feveral parts of this county, are found red and yellow okeri, tobacco- pi|>e clay, potters-clay, fullers-earth, and a fort of brick>carth, which burns blue, and is ruppofcd to be the larth of which the Romans made their urns. Here alfo are found flonei and minerals of various kinds, StalTordfhire lies in the province of Canterbury, and diocefe of Litchfield and Coventry, and includes a hundred and fifty parifties. It is divided into five hun- dreds, and c intains one city, and eighteen market- towns. The city is Litchfield, and the market-towns ar" Bctley, Urcwood, Bromley-Abbots, litirton-upon. Trent, Cheadle, Ecclefliall, Leek, Ncwcadle-under- Linc, Penkridgc, Rugelcy, StalTord, Stone, Tamworth; I'L'tbury, Utoxeter, Walfliall, and Wolverhiimpton, Litchfield is diflunt from London a hundred and eighteen miles. It itanJs in a valley, three miles fuuth of the Trent, and is divided by a flrcani which runs into that river. I'he divi.ion of it on the fouth fide of this flreain is called the Ciiy, and the other the Clofe, from its being inclofed with a wall and a dry ditch on every fide, except that next the city. Thofc parts are connected by two bridges ; but the city is by much the Urgefl. It is a long, (Iraggling place, but has foinc haiidl'ume houfes. The Arcets are well- paved, and kept clean j and this being a gre.it tho- roughfdrc from London to the north-wed counties, here arc feveral good inns, This city has a cathedral, and three parifli-churchcs. The cathedral, which (lands in the Clofe, was founded in the year 1 148, It futfered much in the civil wars un- der Charles I. but was fo repaired foon after the Reflo- ration, that it is now one of the noblefl Gothic flruc- tures in England. It extends in length, within the walls, four hundred and forty foot, and in breadth eighty. Over the middle is a fine lofty fteeple. The front is adorned with a handfome portico, over which arc two correrpoiiding fpires, with twenty fix ftaiuts uf the prophrii, apoAIci, and kiiigi of Judah, ai largt ai the life. The infide likewiU is adurned with f«v«« ral (latues. The choir ii in great part paved with ala- baiter nnd cannci coal, in imitation of black and whiia marble | and b<-hind the chnir is a neat chaiiel, Th« prebendaries flails arc of excellent worknianfhip. In the dole are, a palace lor the Infhtip, a houle tor the dean, and very handloinc huiifcs lur the prcbeii'lanes. The fee of Litchfield is united with that ol Coventry in VVnrwicklhire. There is a good jail for felons and debtors appre- hended within the liberties of the city, with a frec- Ichoul, and a large and well-endowed holpital for the relief of the pour. Litchfield is famous fur fin* ale, and in the ncighb(juthood arc frequent hotlc- races, Ufway, king of Mcrci), is faid to have built a ca- thedral church here in the year C56, or 657 i and about the year 789, king Otla, by the favour of popo Adrian, made it an archicplfcopal lee ) but ten years afterwards, Litchfield lod this honour, and its church and diocefe were again fubje£led to the n1etropulitic.1I fee of Canterbury, in the year 1075, this fee was tr,inf. lated to Chcticr, and thence, in iio;t, to Coventry ; but in ■ fhort time after the bifhops again fettled here 1 and Roger dc Clinton, about the year 1140, not only founded a new cathedral, dedicated to St. Mary and bt. Chadd, but alio reflored and augmented the chapter. At Eeaudefert park, about five miles from Litch' field, is a large fortification, fuppofed to have been caft up by Canutus the Dane.' Tamworth is didant from London a hundred and feven miles. It is equally divided by the river Tame ; that half of it which (lands upon the weftern fide of this river is in Stallordfhire, and the other half iii VVarwickfhirei on which account each fide choofes a reprefentative in pai'iameiit. By fome writers this borough is placed in Staffordfliirc, and by others in Warwickfllirc. This is the moft ancient town in thofc parts, and was the feat of the Mercian kings. On the iitaffordfhire fide of Tamworth is a collegiate church, a grammar fchool founded by queen Elizabth, and a fine hofpital by Guy, the fame perfon who founded the noble hofpiial in the borough of Southwark. This town has a cunfidcrablc trade in narrow cloths, and other manufadlures. At Wigginton, north of Tamworth, are feveral Ro- man tumuli, called here lows, fome of which having been dug up, difcovcred afhe , charcoal, and pieces of burnt bones. Burton- upon-Trent is diftant from Londun a hun- dred and twenty-three miles, and is famous for its bridge over that river. This flruifture is one of the fincft of the kind in England. It is built of fquared free-ftons, is about a quarter of a mile in length, and confiOs of thirty- feven archci. This place is cele- brated for fine ale. Tutbury, or Stutcfbury, (lands upon the Dove, at the diltance of a hundred and twenty miles from Lon- don. On a hill near the town is an old caftle, waited round, except on one fide, where the hill is very deep, and 432 H E M caftle D E R N (Europe. and inclofed with a ftrong pale. This member of the duchy of Lancafter. Bromley-Abbots was at firft called Bromley, and received the epithet Abbots from an abbey of which it was formerly the ftte, to diftinguifli it from fome other towns called Bromley, in this county. It is fometimes alfo called Bromley-Paget, from a lord Paget, to whom it wls granted by the crown upon the diflulution of monafteries. It (lands at the didance of a hundred and twenty-eight miles from London, but contains nothing worthy of note. Utoxeter, or Utcafter, is fituated on the weftern bant, of the river Dove, a hundred and twenty-five miles from London. The town is of confiderable extent, the (Ireets broad and well-paved, but the houfes in general are meanly built. Here is a fpacious msrket-place, with a crofs in the centre, and a good itonc bridge ov^r the Dove. The market is one of the greateft in thofe parts for cattle, flteep, fwine, butter, cheefe, corn, and all forts of provifions. Some of the London cheefemongers have fadors here, who, ic is faid, buy up cheefe to the value of Ave hundred pounds every day. In this town and neighbourhood iiv many conflderable iron manjfaflories. At Checkley, north-'eaft of this town, is a church, and in the church>yard three tolUftones, each in form of a pyra'nid, and engraved with a variety of figures. The inhabitants of this place have a tra- dition that there was an engagement in Naked Field in the neighbourhood, between two armies, one armed and the other unarmed ; and that in one of the armies, were killed three bifliops, in memory of whom thofe ftunes were ere£ied. Cheadle is diftant from London a hundred and thirty-fix miles, and has a chatity-fchool. At Alton, about three miles from this place, are the ruins of a caftle, which was built before the time of William the Conqueror, Newcaille-under-Line was firft called Newcaftle from a caftle now in ruins, built here in the reign of Henry III. and to diftinguifli it from an older caftle, which ftood at Cheftertown, a village in the neigh- bcurhood. It was afterwards called Newcaftle-under- Lin;,, or Lime, from its fituation upon the eaft fide of a branch of the Trent, called the Line, or the Lime, and to diftinguifli it from Newcaftle- upon- Tyne, in the county of Northumberland. This town is diftant from London a hundred and forty nine mites. The ftreets are broad and well paved, but the buildings low and moftly thatched. Here were formerly four churches, which are now reduced nocrucium of Antoninus ; but this town lying a mile or two north of the military way, and there being hardly any other grounds for the conje£lurc but the firoilitude of names. Dr. Plot places the Pennocrucium at Streeton, upon Iknild-ftreet, near Tutbury. Kugeley Hands at the diftance of a hundred and twenty-fix miles from London, in the road to Lin- cafliire and Chefliire. It is a well-built town, and in its neighbourhood is a paper-mill. Brewood is fituated a hundred miles from Lon* don, aiid is a pretty little town, with a free-fchool. At Fetherftone, near this place, was found a brafa head of the bolt of that military engine of the an- cients, called catapulta. One of the fame kind was found at Buibbury, in the neighbourhood, and two others in different parts of the county. Wolverhampton is diftant from London a hundred and feventccn miles, and is a well-built, populous '.own. Here is a collegiaie church, with • tower, in which are fcven bells. The pulpir, which it very ancient, is of ftone ; and in the church-yard !; an ancient ftone crofs. Here are three charity- fchools, rwo of which are fupportcd by fubfcription. This town is ill fupplied with water, but the air is remarkably healthy. The chief manufadurers are lockfmiths, who are faid to excel in that branch of bufinefs. At Pottingham, weft of Wolverhampton, was found in the year i;oo, a large torquis or chain of fine gold, for the arm or neck. It was two loot long, and three pounds two ounces in weight. The links were cu- rioufly wreathed, and fo flexible, that it would fit per- fons of various fixes. The torquois was worn by the ancient Britons as well as by the Romans. Walftiali ftands upon a river of ihe fame name, at I «h« th L ar is (EOROPB. fown up here, > to perpetuate >y VVoJpherc, (or embracing a hundred and neat town, >uus for ped- Sow, a hun. The ftreets houfcs which red with flate. I with a free- icious market- ridge over the of cloth, and, IS famous ough Englilh on the river '• This town i twenty one s in England ght. be the Pen- town lying a 'ay, and there he conjeflurc at places the d-ftreet, near hundred and road to Lan> It town, and I from Lon. » free-fchooJ. found a brafs ■ uf the an- me kind was 3d> and two n a hundred It. populous ith « tower, t, which it church-yard ee charity- fubfcription. >ut the air a^urers are branch of , was found f fine gold, ;> and three 5 were cu- M fit per- Ota by the : name, at MNGtAND.] GENERAL tRAVELLER. 433 (he dillance of * Hundred and thirteen miles from London. The principal manufactures of this place are fpuic, bridic-bits, ftirrups, and buckics. Here is an ancient cuilom of diAributing, on the eve of Epiphany, a prcfcnt of one penny to all perfons then refiding in the town, whether (Irangers or inh» • bitants, Kinver, or Kinfare, lies a hundred and nine miles from London, but has nothing worthy of note. Heie is an ancient fortification of an oblong form, ihe longeft fide being about three hundred yards. In • piece of pafture ground adjoining, is a large flone, fix foot high and twelve in circumference, which the pcnle iit the neighbourhood call Rattle Stone, . . dch Stone. In the top of this ftone are two notches, forming the refemblance of three heads. Some perfo is fuppofc the (tone to have been a Britiih deify, anf' others imagine that it was erciHed by the ancient dritons as a memorial of a battle fought near this place. At Abbot's Caftle, north-weft of Kinver, is an ancient fortification, fituated on a high promontory, and fuppofed to have been BritiOi. It has a deep ridge tor half a mile, with hollows cut in the ground, over which the tents are fuppofed to have been pitched. North-cad of Kinver, upon Aftiwood-tieath, is a large entrenchment, fuppofed to have been Roman ; and at Barrow-hill, in the neighbourhood, are two uniform Roman tumuli, or barrows^ conAfting of ft>lid rock, which Dr. Plot coiije£lures to have been petrified by fubterraneous heat. fietley lies a hundred and fifty-two miles from London, and is a fmall inconfiderable place. StafFordihire is a part of the county which in the time of the Romans was inhabited by the Cornavii, and under the Saxons it was included in the kingdom of Mercia. Watling-ftreet and Ikenild ftrect, two of the four great military Roman ways in Britain, run through this county. The former croffcs the river Tame out of VVarwickOiire into StafFordihire, atFalkcflcy-bridge, near Tamwonh, and running weftward, palTes into Shropfhire near Urewood. The latter enters Stafford, ihire at TfeHon, near 'I'utt-iiry, and running fouth- wcft, croflcs VVatiing-ftreet about a mile fouth of Litchfield, and pafTes iiitoWarwickfliire at Handwurlh, near Birmingham. Upon thofe two roads have been difcovercd, in this county, confidcrabic remains of K'oman antiquities. Upon Watling-ftreet, near the place where that road is interfc£ied by Ikcnild-ftrect, is a fmall village called Wall, from the remains of fom( walls which inclofe about two acres of ground, known by the name of Caftle-Crofts. Here have been found Roman coins, and two ancient pavements of Roman bricks. The inhabitants have a tradition that here hid be'o. 36. Dudley-Caftle, now ruinous, is faid to hive been built by Dudo, or Dodo, a Saxon about the year 700. It ftands upon a high mountain, and has a lofty tower, whence is a profp«ct of five Englifl) counties, and a part of Wales. The principal nianufaiEturea of Staftordlhire are cloth and iron utenfils, all kinds of which are made liere ia great perfe6lion. This county fends to parliament ten members, two knights of the (hire, two reprefentatives for the city of Litchfield, and the fame number for each of the following uoroughs, viz, Stafford, Tamworth, and Newcaftle- under- Lint. SHROPSHIRE. Shroplhire is bounded on the ealt ty StafFordfliire ; on the fouth by Woreefterfliire, Herefordfhire, and part of Radnorfliire in Wales ; on the weft by the counties of Denbigh and Montgomery, in Wales ; and on the north by Chefliire, and part of Flintfliirc, in the principality of Wales. This is reckoned the largfft inland county in England being forty miles in length from north to fouth, and thirty-three miles in breadth. The chief rivers of this county are the Severn, the Temd, and the Colun or Clun. The Severn has already been defcribed. The Temd rifes in the north part of Radnorfliire, where running caftward, and feparating Shroplhire from the comities of Rad- nor, Hereford, and Worceftcr, it falls into the Se- vern near Worcefter. The Colun or Clun, rlfei near Biftiops-Caftje, a borough-town of this county, and running fouihward, difcharges itfelf into the Temd, not far from Ludlow. Other lefs confidcr- able ftreams are the Ony, the Warren, the Corve, the Ra, the Tern, and the Rodon. The air of Shropfhire is healthy, but the county being mountainous, it is in many parts fliarp and piercing. The foil here is of different qualities. The northern and eaftern parts of the county yield abundance of wheat and barley, but the fouthern and weftern parts, whi h are hilly, are not fo fertile, yet afford pafturage for flieep and cattle. Along the banks of the Severn are large ri(h meadows, that pro- duce plenty of grafs. Here are mines of copper, lead, and iron, with ftone and lime-ftone, and the county abounds with inexhauftible pits of coal. Be- tween the furface of moft of the coal-ground and the coal, there lies a ftratum of a black, hard, but very porous fubftance, which being boiled in water, yields a bituminous matter, that by evaporation is brought to the confiftence of pitch. From the fame ftratum is alfo produced an oil, which, mixed with the bituminous fubftance, dilutes it into a kind of tar. Both thcfe fubftances arc ufed for caulking of fhips, and are reckoned better for that purpofe than pitch or tar, as they are not liable to crack. The rivers of this county yield abundance of trout, pike, lamprey, giailing, carp, eels, and other frefli- water fifli. 5 Q. Shrop- 434 THE MODERN [Europe. ShropQiite I'lei in the province of Canterbury : that part of it which is fiiuated fouth of the Severn, is under the jurifdidion oi the bilhop of Hereford, and that which liec north is under the bifliop of Litchfield and Coventry, except Orweftry, a market- town, and a few other places, that belong to the bilhop of St. Afaph. This county is divided into fiteen hundreds : it has no city, but contains thirteen market-towns, namely, Bifhops Caflle, Church-Stratton, Clebury, Drayton, Ludlow, Newport, Ofweftry, Shrewlbury, Wellington, Wem, Wenlock-Great, and Whit- church. Advancing from StafFordfhire, the firfl town in out route is Drayton, a little obfcure place, a hun- dred and forty-nine miles diftant from London, and diftinguiflird only by its market. Newport is fituated a hundred and thirty-three miles from London, He?e is a free- grammar fchool, well endowed with a library, and two alms-houfes. Wellington (lands at the diftance of a hundred and fifty-one miles from London, but has nothing worthy of note. Bridgenorth, alfo called Brugmorfe, or Bruges, is diflant from London a hundred and thirty-five miles, and is a large populous town. The greater part of it (lands upon a rock, on the wefiern part of the Sev.-n, and the reft on the oppofite fide of the river, which has here a very great fall. Thofe two parts are di(linguifhed by the names of the Upper and Lower Towns, and are connefled by a (lone bridge of feven arches, upon which is a gate and gate- houfe, with feveral other houfes. The whole confifts chiefly of three ftrects, well-built and paved ; one of which, in the upper town, lying parallel to the river, and called Miil-llreet, is adorned with (lately houfes, which have cellars dug out of 'the rock. Here are two churches and a free fchool for the fons of the burgelTes, with an hofpital for ten poor widows. From the high part of the town, leading down to the bridge, is a hollow way, that is much ad- mired by (Irangers, being hewn in the rock to the depth of twenty foot. This is a place of great trade both by land and water. Its markets are (locked with all forts of provifions, and people refort to its fairs from many parts of the kingdom, for cattle, flieep, butter, cheefe, bacon, hops, linen cloth, and feveral other commodities, Bridgenorth is a very ancient town, having been built in 582, by the widow of Ethelrcd, king of the Mercians. It was afterwards fortified with a wall and caftle, both now in uins ; and had feveral great privileges granted it by charters from Henry II. and king John. Rufbury, near this place, is from feveral circum- flances fuppofed to be the Bramonium, or Uravonium of Antoninus. Bofcobol- houfe and grove, north- eaft of Bridge north, upon the borders of StafFordfhire, are famous for having been the hiding-place of king Charles II. after his defeat at Worcefter. The tree in the grove, which concealed his majcfty, was afteiwards called the Royal Oak, and inclofed with a brick wall, but is now almoft cut away through the curiofity of travellers. Clebury (lands on the north fide of the river Temd, at the diftance of a hundred and eighteen miles from London. It formerly had a caflle, but has now nothing worthy cf auie. Ludlow is fituated a hundred and thirty- (ix miles from London, on the north fide of the Tenid, near its conflux with the Corve, on the borders of Wor- cefter(hire and Hereford(hire. It is furrounded with a wall, in which are feven gates, and has an old caftle, built by Roger de Montgomery, foon after the Con« queft. Some apartments of this caftle are yet entire, with their furniture ; the battlements are very higli and thick, and adorned with towers. The walls were originally a mile in compafs. This caftle was a palace belonging to the prince of Wales, in right of his principality. In an apartment of the outer gatehoufe, the famous Butler, author of Hudibras, is faid to have written the firft part of that celebrated poem. Ludlow is a neat well-built town, and has a large parochial church, with a handfome tower. This church was formerly collegiate, and in the choir is an infcription relating to prince Arthur, elder brother to Henry VIII. who died here, and whofe bowels were depofited in this place. In the fame choir is a clofet, called the Godt-houfe, where the priefts ufed to keep their confecrated utenfils. Here is an alms- houfe for thirty poor perfons, with two charity- fchools, in which fifty boys and thirty girls are taught and clothed. This is a flourifhing town, and has a good bridge over the Tcmd, which turns a great many mills in the neighbourhood. The inhabitants of Ludlow are reckoned a polite people, and horfe races are annually kept on a courfe contiguous to the town. On Brown- Clea-hill, north-caft of Ludlow, are the remains of an ancient camp. Shrewfbury is fituated on the Severn, a hundred and fixty-three miles north-weft of London. It ftands on an eminence, furrounded by the river oil every fide but the north. It is inclofed with walls, and had on the north fide a caftle, built by Roger de Montgomery, foon after the Norman Conqueft ; but the walls and caftle are in a ruinous condition. The ftreets are fpacious, and the houfes in general well-built. Here are two fine bridges over the Se- vern, one of which called the Welch bridge, has a noble gate, ornamented with a ftatue of Llewellin, the laft beloved prince of North Wales, Bcfidcs meeting- houfes, here are five churches, vis. St. Chad's, St. Mary's, St. Alkman's, St, Julian's, and Holy Crofs, or Abbey Foregate. Here is alfo one of the largeft fchools in England, founded and endowed by Edward the Vlth, Queen Elizabeth rebuilt it from the ground, and farther endowed it. It is a line fabric, with a good library and chapel, and con- venient houfes for the mafters. Exclufive of hofpi- tals, alms-houfes, and an infirmiry, there are feveral charity-fchools, where a hundred and forty boys, and forty girls, are taught and partly cloathed. There is likewif* for Emqiand.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 435 likcwife a good town-houfe ; and a piece of ground, called the Quariy, from (tones having been formerly dug here, is now converted into one of the fineft walks in England. The inhabitants of this town all fpealc EngliiO, though here are many Welch families i but the common language on a market- day is Welch. It is computed, that as much Welch Uonj, frizes, and flannels, are fold at the market, as amounts on an average, to a thoufand pounds a week ; and the town has been many years famous for its delicate cakes and excellent brawn. Shrewfbury had its origin from the ruins of an old Roman city, about four miles diftant, called Uriconium, which u now reduced to a fmall village, known by the n?.me of Wroxeter. Shrewsbury was a town of confiderable note even under the Saxons, and now one of the moft flourifliing towns in England. Wroxeter was doubtlefs the fecond, if not the firft city of the ancient Cornavii, and fortified by the Romans to fecure the ford of the Severn : the extent of the wall was about thiee miles ; and, from Tome fragments of !t that remain, the foundation appears , to have been nine foot high. It had on the outftde a vaft trench, which even at this day is in fome places very deep. Here are alfo other remains of Roman buildings, called the Old Works ofWroxeter. There are fragments of a ftone wall, about a hun dred foot long, and in the middle twenty foot high. Not many years ago here wasdifcovered under-grcund a fquare room, fupported by four rows of fuiall brick pillars, with a double floor of mortar, built in the manner of a fudatory or fv/eating-houfe, much in ufe among the Romans. In the channel of the Se- vern, near this place, when the water is low, may be feen the remains of a ftone bridge ; and in and about this torirn, Roman coins and other antiquities have frequently been dug up, Renton, a fmall village weft of Shrewft)ury, and near the Severn, is fuppofcd to have been the ancient Rentunium, a Roman ftation. Wem is fituated near the fource of the Redan, at the diftance of a hundred and forty-eight miles from London. It has a free-fchool, founded and liberally endowed by fir Thomas Adams, lord mayor of Lon- don, in 1645. This was the birth-place of Wycherly, the celebrated dramatic writer. Whitchurch flands on the borders of Cheftiire, a hundred' and fifty miles from London. Tt is a large, populous town, with a handfome church, in which are feveral monuments of the Talbots, earls of Shrewsbury. In the civil wars, this town is faid to have raifed a whole regiment for the fervice of king Charles I. Ofweftry, or Ofwaldftry, is fituated on the borders of Denbighfliire, at the diftance of a hundred and fifty-feven miles from London. It is furrounded with a wall and ditch, and fortified by a caftle. It has a church, and a good grammar-fchool, with an excel- lent charity- fchool for forty boys, beftdes girls, who are not only taught but clothed. This place had formerly a great trade ia Welch cottons and flannels, but it is now fo much decayed, that it hardly contains a houfe which can accommodate a traveller This town was originally called Maferfield, and de- rives its prefent name from Ofwald, a king of North- umberland, who being defeited here, and flain in battle, by Penda, a prince of Mercia, was beheaded and quartered by order of the conqueror ; and his head being Rxed upon a pole in this place, the pole or tree was probably called Ofwald's tree, whence the town, by corruption, was afterwards called Ofwald- ftry, and Ofweflry. Church-Stretton f}ands a hundred and thirty miK's from London, and is remarkable for a good corn- market. Bifhops-caftle derives its name from having formerly belonged to the bifbops of Hereford, who probably had a Ce-ut or callle here. It is fituated a hundred and fifty miles from London, and is in old corporation. Its market is famous for cattle, as well as feveral other commodities, and is much frequented by the Welch. Wentock, called alfo Great Wenlock, to diftinguilh it from a village in its neighbourhood, known by the name of Little Wenlock, is a hundred and forty- three-miles diftant from London. This place is re- markable only for lime-ftone and tobacco-pipe clay. A little to the north-eaft of Wenlock, at Brofely, is a well that exhales a vapour, which, when con- tradled to a fmall vent, by an iron cover with an apcr- ture, catches fire from any flame applied to it, and burns like a lamp, fo that eggs, or even meat, may be boiled over it. On removing the cover, the flame goes out. It is remarkable, that a piece of meat broiled in it has not the lead fmell or tafte of fulphur. The water is exceeding cold ; and i^ as much fo immediately after the flame is extinguished as be- fore. At A£ton-BurneI, three miles from Great Wen- lock, a parliament was held in the reign of Edward I. when the Icrds met in a caftle, and the commons In a barn, both which are yet (landing. In this fcflioii of parliament was enaiSled the famous llatute, called the Statute-merchant, for the fecuricy of debts. The diviAon of Shropfhire which lies north of the Severn, is part of the country that, ia the time of the Romans, was inhabited by the Cornavii ; but what lies on the fouth of the Severn belonged to the Or- dovices, a people that occup.ed the moft confideraMe territories in Wales. Shropfhire, under the Saxons, conftituted part of the kingdom of Mercia. This being a frontier county between England and Wales, was defended by no lefsthan thirty-two caftles, befides fortified towns. The extremity of it, towards Wales, was governed by fome of the nobility of the county, who were ftyled lords of the marches, and who excrcifcd a kind of palatinate authority within the bounds of &c\t jurifJiAion. The military way called Watling-ftrcet enters Shropfhire out of Staflfbrdfhire at Boningale, a village northeaft of Bridge-north. From Bnnlngale it direfti its courfe north-weft to Wellington, and thence fouth- weft n 43« T H ft M weft through Wroxeter, where crofltng the Severn at a place called Wroxeter-ford, ■: i: furrounded with an intrenchment. The principal manufaflures of Shropfltire are, Welch cottons and flannels, with ftockings, and iron implements of all kinds. It fends twelve r.^emb^rs tn parliament, two of whom are for the county, and two for each of the following towns, namely, Shrewfbury, Bridgenorth, Ludlow, Wenlock, and Bifliops-caftle. CHESHIRE. Chefliire is bounded on the fouth by Shropfhire, and part of Flintlhire } on the weft and north-weft by Denbighfhire, and the Irifh fea ; on the north by Lancalhire ; and on the eaft and fouth-eaft by Drr- byfhire and Staffbrdfliire. The north-weft corner of the county projects into the Irifli fea, and forms a peniiifula near fixteen miles long, and feven broad, called Wirel. The fea breaking on each fide of this peninfula, forms two creeks, one between the north- eaft fide of the peninfula and the fouth-weft coaft of Lancafhire ; and the other between the fouth-weft fide of it and the north-eafl coaft of Flintfhirc. Thofe two creeks receive all the rivers of the county, which is about forty-five miles longj and twenty-five broad, in •;» greatoft extent. The principal rivers are, the Merfey, the Weaver, and the Dee. The Merfey runs from the north-eaft, wcftward, and dividing this county from Lancafhire, falls into the northern creek of the peninfula. The Weaver rifes in Shropfliire, runs from fouth to north. E N [Eu^Rort. and difcharges itieit inu the northern creek. The Dee ilTues from two fprings near Bela, a market-town In Merionefl^ihire, in Wales, whence running north* eaft, through that founty and DerhyCiire, and after- ' wards d'lieSti^g its courfe north, and feparting Che- (hire from North \Valei, it falls into the fouthern: creek of the peninfula. The Dee abounds with faU mon i and though it always floods the neighbouring fields when the wind blows freih at fouth-weft, yse the longeft and heayieft rains never caufe it to over- flow. Bcfides theff rivers, there are feveral meres and lakes of confiderable extent, which abound with carp, bream, tchch, eels, and other Tifh. The air of tbif county is ferene and healthfut, but proportiuiialily colder than the more fouthern parts of the ifland. 1°he country is in general flat and open, though it rifes into hills on the borders of Staflxird- fbire aud Derbyfaire, and contains feveral forells, two of which, called D.lamere and Macclesfield, are of confiderable extent. The foil in many parts is natu- rally fertile, and is much improved by a kind of marl, or fat clay, with which the pcafunts manure it. The pafture is faid to bIt is obtained, not from the water of the fea, but from fait fpiings, that rife in Northwicb, Namptwich, and Middlewich, which are called the Salt Wicbes, and Dunbam, at the diftance of a^out fix mile*, from each other. The pits. are feldom, more than four yards deep, and never ex- ceed fcven. In two place* in Namptwich, the faring breaks out in the meadows, fo as to fret away the grafs} and a fait liquor oozes through the earth which is fwampy to a confiderable diftance. The fait fprings at Namptwich are about thirty miles from the fea, and generally lie along the river Weaver ; yet there is an appearance of the. fame vein at Middle- wich, nearer a little ftream called the Dane, or Dan, than the Weaver. All thtfe fprings lie near brooks, and in meadow-grounds. The water is fo cold at the bottom of the pits, that the briners cannot remain in them above half an hour at a time, nor fo long, without frequently drinking of fpirituous liquors. Some of ihofe fprings aftord much more water than others; but it is obferved, that there is more fait in any given quantity of water drawn from the fpringa that yield little water, than in the fame quantity drawn from thofe that yield much. It is alfo remark- able, that more fait is produced from the fame quan- tity of brine in dry weather, than in wet. Whence the faline ingredient in thofe fprings is fupplied, is a qucftion which has never yet been clearly afcertainej. Some have fuppofcd it to come from the fea; fame from fubtcraneous rocks of fait, which were difco- vered in thofe parts about the middle of the laft cen- tury j and others, from faline particles fubfiiling in the atmofphere, and depofited in a proper bed. It is m c/iav(/o//m r7a///mr/) . Jf< fi>//f/'// . EflCtAND.] GENERAL tRAVfeLLER. ^i7 not probable that ihii water comes from the Tea, be- caufe a quitrc of fea-water will produce no more than •n ounce and a half of fait, but a quart of water from thofe fprings will often jrield feven or eight ounces. I'his county ia fltuated in the province of York, and diocefc uf Cheder, and includes a hundred and twenty- four paridies. It is divided into feven hun- dreds, and contains one city, with twelve market- towns. The city is Chelter, and the market- towns ■re, Altrineham, Congleton, Frodlham, Halton, Knott-.'sford, Macclesfield, Malpas, Middlewich, Namptwich, Northwick, Sandbach, and Stockport, Chefter is didant from London • hundred and eighty-two miles. It is built in a fquare form, and furruunded hy a wall, with battlementSi which is two miles in coinpifs. The two principal ftreets interfefl each other at right angles ; and at the interfefkion, which is nearly in the centre of the city, is a fpa- cious area, called the Pentife, where ftands the town- houfe, with the Exchange, a neat building, fupported by columns thirteen foot high, of ~one done each. Thofe four Areets are excavated out of the earth, and funk many feet below the furface. The carriages are driven far below the kitchens, on a line with ranges of (hops ; over which, on each fide of the ftreets, run galleries, or rows ofien in front, and baluftraded, for the convenience of foot-paflengers. The city has four gates, one at each end of the two great ftreets ; and thofe placed exafiiy to the four cardinal points. On a rifing-grcund, on the fuuih-fide, flands a caftle, which is in part furrounded by the river Dee, and is a place of confiderable ilrength, where a garrifon is al- ways kept. In this caflle is a ftately hall, refembling that at Wenmiiifter, where the palatine courts and aflizes are held. There are alfo offices for the records, and a prifon for the county. The walls of the city join the caftle on the fouth fide ; and near this fort is a bridge of twelve Tches over the Dee. At each end uf the bridge is a gate, over one of which ftands a tower, whence the city is well fupplied with water, raifed by mills from the river. Chefter is the fee of a bifliop, and has nine churches, one of which is the cathedral, which, with the bifliop's palace, and the houfes of the prebendaries, ftands on the north fide of the city. Here is a charity. fchool for forty boys, who are taught, clothed, and main- tained, by a fund of five hundred and feventy pounds a- year, tailed by fubfcription. T!.e city of Chefter derives its name from Caftra, the Latin appellatiun for a camp ; the Roman legions having fevcral times encamped near this place, and the twentieth legion, called Viftrix, being fettled here by the emperor Galba, under Titus Vinius, to overawe the inhabitants of the neighbouring counties. This city is called Deva by Antoninus, and Deunana by Ptolemy. One of the ancient Roman gates, the Eaft-gate, re- mained till of late years, when jc was pullcj down, on account of its ftraitiiefs and inconvcniency- It con- fifted if two arches, formed of vaft ftoties, fronting the Ea-ft-gatc ftieet ; the pillar between the archcj di- /Viding the fticet exadlly In two, No- 37' The Roman bath, beneath the Feathers inn, in Bridge-ftreet, is fuppofed to be entire i but the only part which can be feen, by reafon of the more modern fuperftruAures, is the hypocauft. This is of a rectan- gular figure, fupported by thirty, two pillars, two foot ten inches and a half high, and about eighteen inches diftant from each other. Upon each is n tile eighteen inches fquaie, as if defigned for a capital ; and over them a perforated tile, two foot fquare. Such are con- tinued over all the pillars. Above thefc are two layers, one of coarfe mortar, mixed with fmall red gravel, about three inches thick ; and the other of finer ma- terials, between four and five inches thick, 'i hofc feem to have been the floor of the room above. The pillars ftand on a mortat' floor, fpl'ead over the rock. On the fouth-flde, between the middle pillars, is the vent for the fmoke, about fix inches fquare, which is at prefent open to the height of flxteen inches. Here is alfo an antichamber, exaflly of the fame extent as the hypocauft, with an opening in the middle into it. It is funk near two foot below the level of the for- mer, and is of the fame re£tangular figure. This was the room allotted for the flaves who attended to heat the place, and the other wis the receptacle of the fuel. Without the gate, towards the bridge, is a large round arch, apparently of Roman workmanfhip. It is now filled with more modern mafonry, and a pafTage left through a fmall arch, of a very eccentric form. Oil the left, within the pafTage, is another round arch, now alfo filled up. This poftern is called the Ship- gate, or Hole- in-the- Wall, It feems to have been in- tended for the common pafTage over the Dee, into the country of the Ordovices, either by means of a boat at high-water, or by fording at low, the river here being remarkably (hallow. What feems to confirm this conjedlure is, that the rock on the Henbridge fide is cut down, as if for the conveniency of travellers ; and immediately beyond, in a field called Edgar's, arc the veftiges of a road pointing up the hill. In the front of a rock in the fame field, and facing this relic of the Roman road, is cut a rude figure of Minerva, with her bird and altar. This probably was a fepulchral monument. The only pieces of detached antiquities remaining in this city are, a beautiful altar, an I a copper ftatue of a Roman foldier ; the former in the uoirelEon of Mr. Dyfon, and the latter in the garden of Mr. Lawton. The altar is of great elegance, and was eredled in honour of the emperors Dioclefian and Maximinian, by Flavins Longus, tribune of the twentieth vi£lorious legion, and his fon Longinus, who were of Samofata, a city of Syria. On one fide is the infcription, and over it a globe, oveuoppcd with palm- leaves. On the oppofite 's a curtain, with a feftoon above. On one of the narrower fides a genius, with a cornucopia ; and on the other < pot, with a plant of the acanthus, the foliage of which is extremely elegant. On the fummit is a head, included in a circular garland. This piece of antiquity was found in digging for _ cellar near the Eaft-gate, on the ancient pavement, I R whicli 43 ^ 't tl E MODERN [Eunoh?. Ei « f which cdnfi(l<4 of great (tones. Around It were found ilie marki of facrifice, headi, horni,. arid bones of the OS, roe-buck, &c. with two coins, one of Vefpafian, in brafs, and the other ofConnanlius, in copper, In • ruinous fabric, called the Chapter, there wal Jifcovered, about thirty yean ago^ » ftelcton, fup* pofcd to be the remains oCHugh Lupus. The Imncs Were verjr frefli, and in thtir nalu«al pofition ; they were wrapped in leather, and contained in a (tone cuflin i the legs were bound together at the ancles, and the firing wtt- cntke. In the cathedra), among 'otlie> ancient monuments, is the tomb of Hertry IV. •mpcror of Germany, who, after abdicating his go- vernment, is faid to have led the life of a hermit at Chefter, altogether unknown, till he difcovcred him- feir to the prior, who confcdcd hiin, yuA before he expired. Chelter is fuppofcd by fame to'havc been acity be- fore the time of the Romans, and to have been called Genuina, or Gunia ; and by others, to have become a confidetable place, l>y the gradual increafc of build- ings which were neceflfary to accommodate thofe that reforted thither on v.irioui occafions, while it w» the flation of the twentieth Roman legion, called Valeria ViArix, or Valens Viflrix. The wall is fuppofcd by fome to have been built by Elfl'cda, and the caOle and cathedral by Hugh Lupus, the earl of the county, foon after the Norman conqfjeO. Several authors, however, mention the caflk of Chcfler as exifting in the Dani(h and Saxon times. It is therefore probable, that Lupus only repaired or rebuilt the caAle, efpecially as there is a fquire tower belonging to it,, which tradition has afcribed to Julius C»far{. and though there (hould not appear fufficient authority to admit that this tower wat the work of Csefar, yet the tradition a(Fordt pre- fumptive evidence that there was a cattle bete long before the Norman conqueft. by Wiltltm the Conqueror, which, with the baroi>y, belong! to the duchy of Lancafter, and nuintaini a large jfurifdiAion in the ccumy round it, by the name of Halton-fee, or the Honour of Halton, having % court of record and a prifon, I'he inhabttunts claim a titarhet by prefcription, and here is a fmall mar- ket held' on Saturday ; but the town has not been gt. nerally eonlidered as a muket-town, nor re^iflurcd as fuch. Norihwich is Ctuated on the river Weaver, near it) coflBux' with the Dan, a hundred and fifty-nine mild- from London. This town (lands fo near the centre ef the county, that it is generally the place of meeting to tranfaA all public affairs. The houfes are for the moft part old, but it has a good church, and a charity- fcbool. The fait made here is not fo white as that which' i» manufactured at other places ;■ but about fixty years ago, wCr« difcovnvd on the fouth Ada of the town feveral mines of rock-falt, which have ever Ance been wrought, with great diligence, and the fait fent in large lumps- to the Tea- ports, where it' is manufaflured for ufe. Some of the quarries are now » hundred and fifty foot deep, and- are fuf ported by rowa of pillars. From the innuiaerable candles that are cotr- (tantly burning when the miners are at work, they make a fplendid appearance, Middlewich, fo called becaufe it (tands between Namptwich and Northwich, is fituated at the conlfux of the Dan with the Croke,. » hundred and Afiy-ftK mrles from London. The town is populous, nnd has- a fpacious church. The falt-fprings hete are faid to pro- duce more fait,, in proportion to the brine, than tbo(»^ at any other place, Namptwich (tands on the river Weaver, in tite Vale Royal, at the diftance of a hundred and fixty- four mile* from London. It is. the greateft and bclK- built town in tfce county, exoept Che({er. The (Ireeta Malpat is fituated on a high hill, on the I>orders of are regular, end many of the houfes handfome, as writ Shrop(hire, not far from the Dee, a hundred and (ifty feven milea from London. It Gonri(ts chiefly of three ftreets, well-paved. Ic ha* a- (tately chui«by which (tfand* ON the higKe(t pert of the town, and the bene- fice it fo confideralile, that it ' rtt two ttStors, who o(ficiate alternately. In fi ..er times it had a caftle, and has now a grammar- fchool and an ho* fpital. Prodfliam (lands on the river Weaver, near its con- flux with the Merfey, at the diftance of a hundred and fixty-two miles from London, and is a fea-port. It confifts of one long (treet, at the weft end of which' is • caftle, that for many ages was the feat of the eatl* of Rivers. The church is fituated a little from the town, near a lofty hilly called Frodfham-hill, the higheft in tile county, on which there has been ufed to be a bea- con. Here is a ftone bridge over the rlver» and about a mile from the town another of brick. Halton, or Haulton, i. e. High-town, is fo catled from its fituation, which is on a hill,^ about two miles north of Prod(ham, and a hundred and flxty- three from London, Here is a caftle, faid to have been built by Hugh Lupus, to whom the county was granted as the church, which is a large ftruAure, built in the form of a crofs, with a fleeple in the middle. Here arc two charity-fchools, one for forty boys, and'the other for thirty girls. The inhabitants carry on a confider- able trade in checfu and fait, both which are made heiv in great perfe£tion% Sandbach h ^ut, and has a fe faid to pro- "«» than iho<» e»ver, in tite red aod fixty- itcft and beft- . Theftreeu Ifome, as writ 'i built in the d'e. Hereare- •nd' the other >n a confider- »re made here hundred and d on (he river om Mowcojt. ve the town. i in the mar- in fteps, and d. u fituated Ion. near the to two parfs I the rormer ■pel ot eafe, ■ear the bor. >'two milA *iy of note, is fuuated • ItundrCd England.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 43?* hundred and fiKly miles from London, on the fouth iiJe of the river Merfey, and has alfo nothing remark- able. Macclesfield, or Mansfield, is filuated on the river Bollin, a hundred and fifty-one miles from Londoh. This town (lands In the parifh of Preftbury, but kcre is a handfome chapel, with a high iteepic, in form of a fpire. Here is alfo a free-fchool, of •n ancient foundation, and a college inftituted by Thomas Savage, who was bifhop of London, and afterwards archoifhop of York. The chief tnanufac- lure of the place is buttons. Congleton is diftant from London a huhdrcd and fifty-feven miles. The houfcs of this town are ge- nerally old, but well built. The middle of it is wa- tered by the little brook Howtey, the eaft fide by the Daning Schow, and the north by the L)an, over which it has a bridge. The number of inhabitants is conflderable, and their principal manufa£lure that of gloves. Chcfliire was one of the countiei which in ancient times were inhabited by the Cornavii ; and under the heptarchy it was included in the kingdom Of Mekia, to which after being annexed two hundred years, it fell into the hands of the Danes. About the year 877, Alfred the Great, having recbvered it from the Danes, made it a province to the kingdom of the Well Saxons, and appointed Etheldredi a defcend- ant of the kings of Mercia, to be its goverttor, Af- Vr the death of Eiheldred, the government of this county devolved to his widow Edelfleda, at whofe de- mife it defcended to EthHdred's pofterlty, till with the reft of England, it fell once more into the hands of the Danet, under Canutui. Canutus committed it to the government of Leofric, who aflTumed the old title of earl or comes. From him it defcended to bis. fun Algar, and afterwards to Edwin, who were fuceeffive earls of Cheihire, till it was given by William the Conqueror, as a principality, firft to Gofhord, i nobleman ofFlanders, who h^d affifted him in his enterprise againft England, and then to Hugh Lupus, bis nephew, to whom he gave a pala ' tine or fovereign jurifdi£lion, by a grant of this county, ** to hold to him and hi* heirs, as freely by the fword, at the king held the crown of England." By this grant Chefliire became a ccjnty palatine, Vrith fovereign jurifdiAion within its own precin£ls, in To high a degree, that Lupus, and many of his fuccelTors, had parliiiments, conflfting of their own barons and tenants, who were not bound by the a£ls of the general parliament of the kingdom. The power of the earls of Chefter, with which they ',.\i been invefted for the more efTedually reftraining any infurre£lion of the neighbouring people, bring no longer neccfliry for this purpofe, and havinj at length become formidable even to the king, was abolifhcd by Henry VIIL who rendered this county dependent upon the crown ; though all pleas cp-.- cerning property, whether real or petfonal, are ftill dctcrmired in the county. An cpifcopal fee, for part of the Mercian kingdom, was eic£led in the city of ChcAct before the end of the feventh century. This wu generally, though not always, under the fame bifhop as that of Litch- field, to which it was at length united. After the Conijueft, bifhop Peter quitted Litchfield, and fixed his refldence at St. John's church, in Chefter, where he was buried in tioi. Bifhop Robert, his fuceefTor, conceiving a greater attachment to the rich monaftery of Coventry, liiade that one of his cathedrals, aad left Chefter t though feveral bifhops of Litchfield aiid Coventry, after this time, afTumed the title of bifhop of Chefter. The chief trade of Chefhire cbnfilts In cheefe arid fait, ahd it fends to parliament four members, two of whom reprefeilt ih^ county, Ind two the city of Chefter. CHAP. XIL Dirhyjbir' Ntttinihamjbiri, LlhtitHjblrt, Ytrkjhirt. "P^ . ii Y S H I R £ M bounded oii the weft -'^ by Staffbrdfhirei and part of Chefhire % on tlit) notth by YbrkiKire { on the eaft by Noitinghamfhire, and a part of Leicefterfhire; and on the fouth by another part of Leiceilerfhire. It is of ft triangular form, its length from fouth to weft fort^ niilet, arid its breadth about thirty. The tiriiicipal rivers in iHis county are the Der« went, the Dove, and the Erwafli. The Derwent rifes in a rocky, mouhtainous aild barren traQ, in the north- weft of this county, called the Peak of Derby, whence running fouth-eift, ahd dividing the^ county nearly into equal parts, it falls into the Trent about eight miles fouth-eaft of the town of Derby. The Dove, as has already been m ntioned, alfo rifes in the Peak of Derby, and running fouth-eaft divides this county from StafFordfhire j falling into theTreiit a few miles north of Burton-upon-Trent, a cohflder'* able market-town of StafFordfhire. The Erwafh feparates the counties of Derby arid Nottingham, and falls into the Trent, four or five miles north-eaft of the place where the Derweiit empties itfelf into that river. The two parts into which the river Derwent di« vides this county are very different, as well with refpefl to the air as to the foil, except on the banks of the river, where the land is on both fides remark- ably fertile. In the eaftern divifion the air is healthy, and of an agreeable temperature: the foil is generally well cultivated, and produces grain of alihoft every kind in great abundance, particularly barley. But in thv 7eftern divifion the a'r 'A ft producing a fi(h called griylingt, »bd for troDli reckoned the belt in £n;;land. The weftern part of ihii county, notwithlllnding it) barrcnneft, ii yet ai pr«lit«ble lo the hihabitanti ■I the eaftern part ) affording great quantitiei of the bed lead, with antimony, mill-ftonei and grind- ilones, bcAdcs marble, alaballtr, a coarfe fort of' cryOal fpar, green and white vitriol, alum, pit-coal, vnd iron. Derby(hirt lie» In the province orCainerbury, and dlioccfe of Litchfield and Coventry, and includei »■■ hundred and fix pariihes. It ii divided into fiX' hundredi^ and containi eleven marlcet-towni, but no city. The markettowi i are, Alfrcton, AOiborn, B^kewell, Bolfovcr, Chapcl-in the-Frith, Chefter- field, Derby, Droiificid, 'I'idefwell, Winder, and Wirkfwonh. The firft town in our route from Chafhire, is Chapel- in-ihe-Friih, which is fituated in a hundred called' the High Peak, about a hundred and forty- nine miles north-weft of' London, but is an inconfi- derable place. Tidcfwall, or Tidefwell, ftandi at the diftance of a hundred and fnrty-fix miles from London, at the bottom of a hill, near a well which conftantly ebb* and flows with the tideorthe fea. It is a town of little note, but has »• frer-fcbool, DronRcId is fituated among the mountains at the edge of the Pcalc> in fo wholefhme an air, that the natives commonly live to a great age, and the neighbouring gentry refort much hither. Ir (lands a hundred and twenty- four miles from London, and has many good buildings. Here is a free grammar- fchool, and a charity-fchool, Bolfover is diftant from London a hu|idred and four miles.. It is a large well-built town, and noted for making fine tobacco pipes. Chefterfield is pleaTantly fituated on the flde of a hill, between two rivulets, called the Ibber and Rother. It lies a hundred and fixteen miles from London, and is the chief town of a hundred in the north-eaft part of this county^ called Scarldale Hun- dred. It \u a well built and populous town.. The church is a fine llru£lure i but the fpire^ being- built of timber, and covered with lead, has been bent by the winds from its perpendicular dire£lion. Here '» a frce-fchool faid to be the' moil conflderable in- the north of F.ngland, and which fends many ftudents to (he univerflties, cfpecially to Cambridge. The mar- ket is well fupplied with lead, grocery, mercery, malt, leather, (lockings, blankets, and bedding ; in which commodities the inhabitants maintain a confl- derable tjade with all the adjacent counties, as well as with London. About fix miles (buth-weft of Chefterfield, (lands Chaifworth, a magnificent houfe belonging to the duke of Dcvonfliire, It is fituated on the caft bank of the Derwent, having on one (ide the river, and on the other a lofty mountain, the declivity of which is planted very thick with firs. The front towards the gsrdcni It ■ icgolar piece of arcUitcAure. Undtt the cornice of the frifc is the family motto, •' Caveii Ju Tutui," which, though confilling only of tweUo letters, reaches the whole length of the pile. 7'he fafhcs of the Attic ftory ate Icventeen foot high ; the panes are of ground glars,.twa foot wide, an J thir fr.imcs double guilt, I'he hall and chapel arc adorned with paintings by Vario i particularly a very fine re- prcfeniation of the death of Cwlar in the Capitol, and of the Rcfurre£lion of aurLord, 7'he chambers, which are large and elegant, form a magnificent gallery, at the end of which is the duke's olofec, finely beautified with Indian paintings. 7'he wed ftoiil which faces the Derwent, is adorned with a magnificent portal, before >vhich there is a Aone-bridge over the river, with a tower upon ir, which was built by the countcfs of Shrewfbury, On an illand in the river, it a building like a caftle, which forms a noble •bje£l lo the view. In a piece of water in the gar- den, are feveral Hlatuei, reprefenting Neptune, with bis Nereids, and fca-borfes i and on the bank is a reprefentation, in copper, of a willow-tree, from every leaf of which, by turning, a cock, water may tM caufed to ifTue in the form of a (bower. Here are many other bemutiful objcifls, both of art and nature, which it would be tedious to enumerate. This place waa built by William, the iirft duke of 'Devonfhire, and is ranked' among thofe curiofitie* commonly called the Seven Wonders of the Peak. In the houfe that was firft built upon this fpot, |^/ fir William Cavendifli of Suffolk, Mary, queen of Scots,, remained prifoncrv feventecn years, under the care of Cavendifh's widow, the countele of Shrewfbury ; in memory of which, the new lodgings, ,thut are built in place- of the old,- are dill called the Qiieen of Scots apartment. Bakcwell ftands on a fmall river, called the Wy«, near its conflux with the Derwent, and it diflant front London a hundred and fourteen milet. U is a large town, and exempt from epifcopal jurifdiAion, having feven chapels,- though only one chureh, lu chief trade, which is verjA eo ifiderable, i* in lead. Winller is difiaar frooi London a hundred and thirty-three mile*, and is fituated fouth weft of Bake, well, near fome rich mines of lead; Alfreton, faid to have been originally built by king;- Alfred, is diftant from London a hundred and thirty- five miles, and is remarkable only (ior its ale, which is very (Irong, and of a fine flavour. Wirkfworth^ or Workfworth, is fituated a hundred and thirty mile* from London, and is a large and- much' frequented town, the chief of a hundred of thff fame name in the Peak. The produce of the mines in this, hundred it very confiJerable. The king claims the thirtieth penny as a duty, for which the proprietors compound at the rate of a thoufand pounda a-year. It is faid thai the tythc of Wirkfworth alone has been worth as much yearly to the reflor of the parifh. This town is the greatell maiket for lead in England, the melting furnaces being built on the hills in its ncighbourhgctd, Her$ is kept a court ■ : .■ s J tm» a noble ['■ in the gar- I'ptune, with ° bank ii a '-tree, from w««er miiy wer. Here of »rt and enumerate, irft duke of e curioAtie* 'he Peak, this fput, Ify 't' queen of ear«, under :ounte/« of :w lodgings, - Ml called d the Wye, diflant from t ii a large ion, having lu chief ad. undred and ft of BaJce- ilt by king- )nd thirty- ale, which a hundred 'arge and- fed of ih« the miner rhe king ivhich the 'd pounda fth alono or of the If lead in. on the a court called' H^OiA'ND.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 44 « called the B4rni(iDt,canriniiig ofamaOer auJ twenty- four jururi, who dcceniiiiio all contruyrtlu-i among ih( miner*, Aflilioru ii fituated a hundred and eight niilei from Loiidun, on ihr cad fiiie of the river Dove, and on the borditi of StalTurdfliire, It (landi on a rich foil, and carriu on a confidcrable trade in cheefe, great quantitiet of which it (ciid> both up and down the river Trent, Derby, which it the counly-towti, ii diftant from London a hundred and twenty- two milci. It iifltu- tied on the weft bank of tbc Derwent, and ii wa- tered on the fouih by a fmall dream, called Martin Brook, which fillt into the Derwent a liitW way caft of the town. Over this brook are nine bridges, and a fine ftone bridge of five arches over the Derwent, upon which is a dwelling-houfc, that had formerly been a chapel, dedicated to St. Mary. This town Will a royal borough in the reign of Edward the ConfeiTor, and was incorporated by a charter from king Charles I. It is a large, well-builr, and popu- lous town, and contains five parifhet, with as many ' churches. That of All-Saints is the moft remark- able. It appears from an infcription to have been originally built by the contribution of the bachelors and maidens of the town, in the reign of queen Mary} but no part of the old building remains, except the tower, which is a beautiful Gothic flruAure, a hun- dred and fcventy-eighl foot high. Near this church is an hofpital for eight poor men and four women, founded by a countefs of Dcvonfhlre. The town- hall, in which the aJCzes and feOions are kept, is a large handfome building of free-ftone, with a fine court-yard, neatly paved and planted with trees. Many gentlemen who have eftates in the Peak, refidc here ; and on a piece of ground called the Row- Ditches, near the town, there are frequent horfe-races. While the Danes remained maftera of England, they made Derby their principal refort, till Ethelileda, a princefs of the Mercians, took it by furprize, and put all the Danes (he found in it to the fiVord. In ah ifland of the Derwent, facing the town, it a curious machine, the only one of the kind in Bri- tain. It is a mill for the manufa£iure of filk, which was ereAed in 1734, by the late Sir Thomas Lombc, who brought the defign of it from Italy, at (he haz ard of his life. This mill works the thrte capital engines for making organize or thrown filk, whici was before made only in Italy, and thence i.-nportei. into England. This curious machine has twenty flx thoufand five hundred and eighty. fix wheels, aid nincty-feven thoufand fevcn hundred and forty-fix movements, which are all worked by one water-wheel, that turns (ound three times in a minute, Bj' every turn of the water-whcel the machine twifts fcventy-three thoufand fcven hundred and twenty-fix yards of filk thread, fo that in twenty-four hours It will twift three hundred and eighteen millions four hundred and ninety-fix thoufand three hundred and twenty yards. Of this complicated machine, any Tingle wheel or No, 37, movement may be (lupt, without impeding tlie rc/l j and the whole is governed by one regulator. The houle which coniaini this mill is five or fix ftories high, and near a quarter of a mile in length ) yet ihe whole is at once equally warmed by a iira engine, contrived for that purpofe. The machine was thought of fo much importance by the legifla- lure, that on the expiration of the patent, which Sir Thomas Lombe had obtained for the fole ufe of It during fourteen years, the parliament granted him" fourteen thoufand pounds, as a farther recompence for the very great hazard he ran, and the expence he had incurred by introducing it, on condition that he fhould fufTer a perfeil model of it to be taken, in order to fecure and perpetuate the invention i anu a model 6f it being accordingly taken, is kept in the Record OfHce in the Tower of London. The trade of this town is not very confiderable t for though it is a flaple, or fettled mart for wool, it depends chiefly upon a retail trade in corn, wfiich is bought and fold again to the inhabitants of the Peak, and upon malt and Hie, of which great quan- tities are fent to Loncion. For the benefit of the trade, the Derwent has been made navigable to the Trent ( but every avenue to the town by land, ii rendered almoft impaflnble' by dirt and mire. Little Chefter, now « fmall village upon the Der- went, near Derby, but upon the othcf fide of the river, was anciently a city. It was ajfo a Roman Ration, as appears by a great number of coins that have been found in it. When the water of the Der- went happens to be very clear, the foundation of a bridge which crofTed it in this place may be feen. In this county are fome remarkable obje£ls, com- monly called the Seven Wonders of the Peak. One of thofe, and the only one that is artificial, is Chatf- worth-houfe, which has been already mentioned. The fccbnd wonder of the Peak is a mountain^ fituated about ten miles north-weft of Chatfworth, called Mam-Tor, a name which is faid to (ignify a Mother Tower. This mountain, though it is per- petually mouldering away, and the earth and fto'nes are falling from the precepice above in fuch quan- tities, as to terrify the neighbouring inhabitants with the noife, is ytt of fo enormous a bulk, that the decrcafc cannot be perceived. The third v/onder is Eden-tiole, near Chapel-in- the-Frith. This is a vaft chafm in the fide of a mountain, twenty-one foot wide, and more than forty foot long. In it appnars the mouth of a pit, the depth of which has never been fathomed. A plum- met once drew after it a line that meafured eight hundred and eighty-four yards, which is fomewhat more than half a mile ; the lafl eighty yards of it were wet, but no bottom was found. Several at- tempts to fathom it have fince been made, and the plummet has fometimes ftopped at half that depth, owing probably to its reding on fome protuberance. In the reign of queen Elizabeth, the earl of Lei- ccder hired a poor wretch to venture down in a baf- kct, who, after he had defcended two hundred ells, 5 S wa* 44* H M R N [ETUROPB. £n< i Wti driwn upt but, to the grtM ilirippoiixmcnt of Iht curioui enquirer, h« had loft hit fenfci, anil in » Few diyi after died dcliriuui. The fourth wonder of the Wik \% a medicinal water, which rifei from nine fpriiigs, near Buxton, • little village, ihiiiy-five milci north- well ef Derby. The bed or foil from which the water iffuea, ia a kind of marble ( and it it remarkable, that within five foot of one of the hoi fpringt, there ia a cold one. Thofe watera contain a fulphureova and faline prin- ciple, but are not unpalatable. They are uCrd in va- rioua diforderi, and much company reforta hither in the fummcr for the benefit of them. It appcart from Lucan, and other ancient writeri, that they were eminent in the time of the Romani. Ten milea north wcR of Derby, are other celebrated me- dicinal fpringi, called Matlock VVella, The fifth ciKiofity ranked among the wondcra, it the fpring called Tidefwell, fituaud near the mar- ket-town to which it hat given name. The well ia about three foot wide ; and the water, in diflbrcnt and uncertain periods of time, finks and rifcs with a gurgling noiA, two thirds of the perpendicular depth of the well. Many conjeiQ^res have been formed to account for this phenomenon. Some have imagined that in the aqueduA a flone (lands in cquilibtio, and occafions the motion of the waters by vibrating back- wards and forwards j but it is as difficult to con- ceive what (hould produce this vibration at uncertain periods, as what ihould caufe the rife and fall of the waters. Others have thought that thofe jratgular ebbings and flowings, at well as the gurgling noife, arc occafioncd by air, which agitates or preflei the water from the fubterraneous cavities J but this hy- pothefit is equally dcfciaive with the preceding, as no attempt is made to account foe the fuppofed mo- tion of the air. Others have imagined the fpring to be occafionally fupplied from the overflowings of fome fubterraneous body of water, lying upon a higher level. The fixth wonder of the Peak it a cave, called Poole's Hole, faid to have taken its name from one Poole, a notorious robber, who being outlawed, fe- crcted himfelf here from juflicej, but others allege that Poole was fome hermit, who made choice of this difmal hole fur his retreat. It is fi'.uated at the bottom of a high mountain, called Coitmofs, near Buxton. The entrance ie by a fmall arch, fo very low, that fuch as venture into it are forced to creep upon their hands and knees y but it gradually opens into a vault more than a quarter of a mile long, and, as fome have affirmed, of the fame height. Not far from the entrance, it is very lofty, and re- fembles the infide of a Gothic cathedral. In a ca- vern to the right, called Poole's chamber, is a fine echo, that continually refounds to a current of wa. tcr, which runt along the middle of the great vault. Water is perpetually dittilling from the roof and fides of this vault in drops, which cryftallize into various fliapes, and have formed large apaflfes, bear- ing a ryda refenblance to men, lioni, dogi, and other animalt. In thii cavity it a column, m clear at alabaftcr, called Mary t^ueen of Scott' Pillar t who, it it pre« tended advanced thut far, t* gratify her curiofiiy. Beyond it It a deep afcent for near a quarter of a mile, having at the extremity a hole in the roof, called the Ncedle'a £ye ( in which, when the guide placet hit candle, it lookt like a (lar in the firma« ment. If a piftol be fired near the Queen's Pillar, the report will be u loud at that of a cannon. Not far from this place a-e two fpringt, one cold and the other hot, though their diftance from each other it only three or four inchea. The feventh and tift wonder of the Peak it a cr* vern, vulgarly called the Devil't Arfe, and fometimea the Peak't Arfe. It runt under a fteep hill, about fix mile* north weft of Tidefwell, by a horiaonttt entrance fixty foot wide, and fomewhat more than thirty foot high. The top of this entrance refem- bles a regular arch, chequered with ftonet of dif- ferent colours, from which petrifying water it con- tinually dropping. Here are feveral huts, inhabited by people who feem ih a great meafure to fubfill by guiding IVrangers into the cavern, Thefe curiofitte* are poetically defcribed by the celebrated Mr. Hobbes, in Latin verfe t and verjr particularly by Cotton, in £ngli(h doggrel. Befides the wonders of the Peak, there are other curiofities in this county. Near a village in the High Peak, called Birchover, north-weft of Tidefwell, ia a large rock, with two ftonet upon it, called Rock- ing ftonet. One of them it tw^ ve foot high, and thirty, fix in circumference i yet it reftt upon a point, in fuch an equipoife, that it may be moved with a finger. Near Brudewall, another vilKige in the High Peak* was dug up a fubftance refembling a tooth, which, though one fourth of it was broken oflT, meafured thirteen inches and a half round, and weighed al- moft four pounds. Among other fabftances refenib* ling bones, which were here dug up, was a (kuJI, that held feven pecks of corn. It i» now, however, the general opinion of naturalifts, that thofe fub. ftances are not bones, but are a kind of fpart called the ftalaAitae, formed by the dropping of water front the rooft of fome fubterranean cavcrnt. • The ancient inhabitantt of Derbyfliire, !n com- mon with thofe of Northamptonfliire, Leicefterfltirr, Lincolnfliire, and Nottinghamftiire, were by the Ro> mans named Coritani. Under the heptarchy all ihofc counties were included in the kingdom of the Mc- cians ; and the inhabitants of DetbyOiire and Not- tinghamftiire, from their fituation on the north fide of the Trent, were called Mercii Acquilones, or the Northern Mercians. Great quantities of malt and ale are made in this county, with which the irthabitants carry on a con- fiderable trade ; but they have no manufactory of note. Derbyftiirc fends four members to parliament, viK. two for the county, and two for the town of Derby.-- WOT- Emolamo.] OBNBRAL TRAVELLER. Ui NOTTINGHAMSHIRE. Noiiinghamfltirt it bounded en ih« wdft b^>I)fr. byOiirr, on ihc norih by YorkCbire, on the oft by Lincolnfhirf, and un (he fouth by Lciccn«r(hirc, It extendi in length from north to fouih ibuu\ forty- three niilei, and from eaft to well about twenty-four. The principal river* in thii coualjr are, the Trent, the Ktwifli, and the Idle. 1 he Trent hat already been defcribcd in the account «f Staffordlhire, and the ErwaOi in that of Deibylbire. The Idle, or Iddle, rifei near Mamficld, a market-town, and running north-eall, fall > into the Dun, a river of Lincoln- ihire, on the wefl fiJe of the llle of Axholm. The air of Nutiinghamfltire is reckoned at healthful u that uf any part uf EngUnd. { but the difFcreni qualities of the luil have divided the county under two denomination!. The eaft fide, which ii very fruit> ful in corn and pafture, the Clay, which iifubdividcd into the North Clay, and the South Clay ( and the weft part of the county, which ii generally woody or barren, hai received the name of the Sand. There ia a large foreft, called Sherwood Foreft, which comprehenda almoft all the weftern parti uf thie county, and containa CivMal towns, feati, and parki. Thufe parti, however, befides wood, yield fome coal and lead. Here art alfo fou • marlei of different forts, and a kind of ftone, which, when burnt, makes a plaifter harder than that of Paris, and ia generally ufed by the inhabiianta of the county for flooring their houfci. Other produAionaof Notting- hamOiire are liquorice, catUc, fowl, and frcfli \ya- Ut fifh. I'his county lies in the province and diocefe of York, and has a hundred and fixty-eight parifhea. It is divided into eight hundreds, or rather fix wa- pentakes, and two liberties, and contain* nine mar- ket-tnwh9, but no city, Thofc towns are, Bingham, Blith, Mantficld, Ne«'ack, Nottingham, Rcdt'ord- £aft, Southwell, Tunford, and WorkTop, Nottingham ftands on a fmall river called the Lind, near iti conflux wiih the Trent, at the diftancc of a hundred and twenty-two miles from London. It is fituated on the fide of a hill, formerly known by the name of Doloron Hill, or Golgotha, from a great flaughter of the ancient Britons at this place, by a king of the North, called Humber. Nottingham is ■ large well-built town, and has in it more gen- tlemen's houfes, than perhaps any other town of its extent in the kingdom. It formerly had a caftle, fuppofed to have been built by William the Con- queror, or his natural fon, William Peverel. This caftle being demoliflied about the time of the Ref> toration, the duke of Newcaftle, who bought the ground-plot, in 1674, ere£led upon it a moft ftately houfe, which is now not only the ornament of this town, but one of the fineft feats in England. Under the caftle of Nottingham, and ia the rock on which it ftood, arc feveral caves, cut out into different apartments, one of which is remarkable for 7 the hiftory of Chrift'i palBon, cut out by David II. ' king of Scotland, when prifontr here, A winding ftair-cafe, which detccndi almoft to the bottom of the rock, leads into another of tbofe caves, called Moriimei's Hole, from a tradition, that Roger Mor- timer, earl of March, hid himfcif in it, before ha was feised by order of Edward III, Here are three churches, one of which, St. Mary's, is built in the manner of a collegiate church | and there is ahandfome town-hall, befides another build- ing, called the King's Hall, where the •ffiaei and feflions for the county are held. Near the latter it fituated the town and county jail. There is alfa a fpacious market-place, with two croflii* in it, a frM« fcbool, befidea three charity-fchools, one of which is Cur thirty-five boys, and twenty girls, who are all clothed and taught. Here are likewife fevcral alms-houfes, and an hgfpital. It has been ufual with all nations to ftigmatise tbt inhabitants of fome particular fpot as remarkable for ftupidity. Among the Afiatiei, the approbious diftri£t was Phrygia 1 among the Thracians, Abdera t anlonf the Greeks, Bytolia ; and in England, it is Gotham, a village a little to the fouth of Nottingham. Of the Gothamites, ironically called (he wife men of Gotham, many ridiculous fables are related ( par- ticularly, that having often heard the cuckow, but never fecn her, they hedged in « bufli, whence her note feemed to proceed, that being confined within fo fmall a compafs, they might at length fatisfy their curioGty. What gave rife to this ftory is not now remembered, but at a place named Court-hill, in this parifh, there is a buih ftill called by the name of Cuckow-Bulh. Over the Trent, which is navigable to this towo by barges, there is a ftately bridge, confifting of nine« teen arches i and as the river fometimes overflowa the neighbouring meadows, there is a caufey near a mile long, leading from the river to the town^ with arches at proper diftances. Here is alfo a vcty hand- Tome ftone bridge over the Lind, which is kept in repair at the common charge of the town and county. The rock on which Nottingham ftands being fo foft as to yield eafily to the pick axe and fpade, af- fords excellent cellaring, with two or thres vaults, one under another. As an inland town, the trade of Nottingham it very confidcrable, and confifts chiefly in its manu- faAures of glafs, earthenware, and ftockings. The beft malt in England is made here, and fent by land to the neighbouring counties. Great quantities of ale are alfo made here, and feut to moft parts of England. At the bottom of a fleep rock under this town, are feveral caverns which have been cut into apart- ments, with chimnies, windows, and other con- veniences, fuppofed to have been contrived by the ancient inhabitants for places of retreat. Near Burton, fouth of Nottingham, is a camp, fuppofed to havs been Britifh, from feveral ancient coins which have been found in it, Bingham ftands at the diftancc of a hundred and eight milos from London, and is a fmall town, with a charity '(44 r k' E 'M O D E R N ttORfflIM.£ iJ a chatity-.'chool, aiid a parfonage of great value. lit Eaft-Bridgeford, north of this- place, m.^y be ktn the remains of a Roman ftation, where a' num- ber of Roman coi'iTs an(> oth^ relict of mtiqbity hive been round; ' Newark'' is fiTuated' a Hundred' and eighteen iniler from London. Two miles fouth of this town, th* Trent divides itfelf into two branches, which forms a fmall ifland by uniting at the didance 6f ^wo miles nofih of it. The town Hands Men the eaftern b^ahth of the I'rent, and h^f aTbr^ogfe over each. Newark Was formerly walled round ; and from the appearance of the (Vones in' the north-gate, this place is fuppofed to have been a Roman ftation. It is a Well-built town, and a great thoroughfare from- Lon- don to York. Here is a churrh built i.: the reign •f Henry the Vlth. which has a lofty fpirr, and h reckoned one of the fined- pariA'-chaTch^s in England. The markeNplate it fo fpacious, that lord Bellafyfe drew up in it ten thoufand men, when he defended this town for Charles I. againft :'^'. Scotch army Here iS a: cha:ity-fchoot for thirty-f,.' boys, fupported liycontribuVions,and a free-fchool fr.jndtd by Thomas Magnus. This is a flouriftiing tcwn, and has a cQn- iiifcrable trade in corn, cattle, wool, and other ctomodities. Southwell is fitoated a hundred and thiity-four lAiles frorA London, on a fmall' ftreaA etWid (he Greet, which falls lAto the Trent about two mllbs fouth of the town. Iftre it a' ehurch^allbd a min- iter, which is both {^arochitl and collegiate, h it fuppofed to have been founded by Paulinas, thtfirft ^rrchbilliop of York, about the year 630, and it re- puted the mother-church of the town and county of Nottingham. It was fet on fire by lightning on the 5th of November 1711,- when all the bod^ of it, exctpt the choir^ was bxirnt to the ground'. It has however, been repaired, and is a plain Gothic ftruC" fure, built in the form of a crofs, with a high tower in the middle, and' two fpin.] at the weft end. Its fength iu'iii cdft to weft is three hundred and fix foot, its breadth fifty-nine ; and the length of the ht pariftcs, 10 molt of which it hns the tlglit of pre- fentation, as well as to other jnrrfhes in Lincoln- Ihire and Yorkfliire. This ^iirlfdiflion is e.^ercifcd by a rommilTary or vicar-gcncral, who is chofen by the chapter out of its own boly, and holJs vifrta- tions twice a year. Here are two annual fynods, ai Which all thcclcrgy of Nottingl^.Ti attend, and where a certain nu.1ib*r of the preben(f.iri;'s of this church, and other clergymen, are appointed by the archbifhop of York, to prcfide as commirtloners, Southwell is divided into two pnrts ; one is called the Burgage, or liurridge, where (he inh.ibitants hold their lands or tenements of the lord, at a certain yearly rent, and which comprehends all that part of the town between the market-place and the river Greet. The other part is called the Frebendage, and conlfts of the liberties of the chutcb, The ci vil government here is di(lin£l from that of iheccuniy, and is called' t^e 8o6e ot' Southwell With S'en)bv, a town near Blith. There are about tvvcniy towi:s fubjtft'.to'tttis^ jurlfaiAiAn. The cnline rottirorin and juftit^es of the peace fbr it, are nominated by the archbHhop of York, and oonftiiwed by a com- miflion under the great fcal. Adjoining to the church is a free-fthool, under the care of the chapter. 7 he maftcr is chofen by thechapterj and approved by 'the archbifhop of York. There are two ficllowftiipis and twd fchular/hips in Sr, John's college, in Cambridge, to be prcfented by the mafter and fellows of that college to fuch perfoni as they fliall think proper, who have been ehoiriiiers of the church at Southwell, Here are the ruins of a grand pn^ice, dsmniinied in the civil wars under Charles I. it belonged to the archbifhop of Yoik^ arid was fuppofed to have bcer> built by archb;niep Uooth, from the remains of a chapel. Thearrhbifliop'of Y«rk had formerly three paries at this place, and, though' they have now no feat hrre^ they have ever fmcc the Conquclb been lords of the manors and enjoy great privileges, havirrg the returns of writs on all the lands, tenements, asd fees, in the neighbourhood. Befldes the fefltons of the pence, kept by turns M Southwell and at Scroby, by juflices of their own nominatioM, ihey h - 3 great Icet, whichi they do, or may, huld ever fcvcral townfiiips. Mansfield flands at the diftancc of a hundrrd and thirty-ftx m1)e» from London, and v/as anci:ntly a royal demefne. It is ». large welKbuilt town, witik a chariry-fchool for thirty-fix bojci, and a go.>d mar- ker, well ftocked with corn, malt, and eattlt. By the ancient cuftom of ;])e manor of Mansfield, the tenants, both men and women were at libe/ty to marry. The heiis of fftates were declared tj be of full- age as (bon as they were born } an'i the lands were equally divided among the fons, or in default of fuch iffue, among the daughters. Tuxford.i« fituated a hundred and th.rty-one miles from London, on the puftroad betwem London and York. It (lands in a mirey clayiHi foil, and the buildings are mean j but hen? is a good free-fchool. Warhoop is fituated at the head of a fmall river called the Ryton, at thcdilhnce of a hundred and thirty-three miles from Loadon. its market is par. ticularfy well ftocked with great q'jantitics of liquor- ice a'nd malt. Kedford-Eaft is fituated on the river Idle, a hun> dred and thirty-five miles from London, and is a royal demefne. Here is a free grammar-fchoul, a good towu- hall, in which are held the feflions for the town, ;iiid fometimes for the county j and under the town-hall are fhambles, the beft in NottinghamDiire. This town is connefled with Weft-RcdforJ by a good ftone bridge over the Idle; it ftinds among large plan- tations of bops, in which, and barley for mailing, it i:8rries on a confiderable trade. AtTilney, north ofRedford, was found not long ago a Druidical amulet, confiding of tranl'parerK ftone of an aqueous colour, with fireaks of yellow. At The ct il>ec('t/niy, Srroby, a "ly towi;s rottirorm liiiated hy by a com- Encland.1 GENERAL TRAVELLER. 445 At tha fant; ;i:r.: ■v«re difcovered a Roman (lylus, and fevcral cornelians and agates, with engravings and Roman infcriptions. Littlebotough, upon the river Trent, about feven miles eaft of Redfurd,' is thought to have been a Ro- man town, called Agelocum, Several Roman pave- ments and foundations of ancient buildings have been difcovered on the eaft fide of the town, part of which has been wafhcd away by the river. Many coins and other remains of antiquity have alfobeen dug up at this place. On the eaft fide of the river, oppofite to Littleborough, are Aill to be feen the traces of an ancient camp. Blith Hands jpon the borders of Yorkfhire, at the diftance of a hundred and forty-four miles from Lon- don. It has a large church, and an hofpital, called Brith Spittle, built by one of the Cre/Ty family. Nottinghamfhire is part of the teritory which, in the time of the Romans, was inhabited by 'the Co- ritani. A Roman military way, called the Fofieway, enters this county from Leicefterfhire, at a place called Willoughby-on-the Would ; whence it pafTes in a dir:(.^ion north-eaft, by Bingham and Newark, into Lincolnfhire. Near this military way,WilIoughby-in-the-Wcu!d, fevcral Roman ceini have been dug up. The principal manufafluires of this count) are ftockings, glafs, and earthenwares. The inhabitants alfo make great quantities of malt, and fine ftrong •le. Nottinghamifaire fends eight mtmbers to parli- ament, two of whom are for the county, and two for each of the following boroughs, namely, Nottingham, £aft-Rtdford, and Newark. ai,s ;;3 LINCOLNSHIRE. Lincolnfhire is bounded on the weft by Netting- hamlhirc, Leicefterlhire, and parts of Yorkfliirc ; on the north by Yorkfhire, from which it is fcparated by the ^ftuary of the Humber } on the eaft by the German Ocean i and on the fouth by Northampton- (hire. It is about fixty miles in length irom nonh ' to fouth, and thirty. five miles in bre.-idch. The principal rivers that water this county are the VVelland, the VVitham, the Trent, the Dun, and the Ankam, The VVelland rifes in Northamptonfhire, and running acrofs that county, enters Liiicolnfhire, whi!re pafling by feveral market-towns, it difcharges itfelf into a bay of the German Ocean, called by Ptolemy Metaris /Eftuarium, but now the Wafhes. The Witham rifes near Grantham, a conftderable town of this county, and running north-eaft, paftes by Lincoln, whence direfiing its courfe foutheaft, it falls into the German Ocean near Bofton. The Trent, as has already been obferved, rifes in Stafford. Ihire, whence running north-eaft through the coun- ties of Derby and Nottingham, and parting the latter from Lincolnfliire, it falls into the mouth nf the Hum- ber. The Dun rifes in Yorkfliirc, and enclofing with the Trent a conftderable piece of ground in the north-weft pare of this county, known by the No. 37. name of the Ifle of Axholm, falls into the Trent near its conflux with the Humber. The Ankam rifes not far north of Lincoln, and directing its courfe due "orth, falls into the Humber eaft of the river Trent, The air of Lincolnfliire Is different in different parts: in the middle of this county, and in the weftern parts along the Trent, it is very healthy ; but of an op- pofite quality on the fea coaff, particularly In the fouth-eaft divifion, which is not only vjoggy, and full of fens, but great part of it is under water ; whence it is diftinguifhed bjr the name of Holland. The foil of this county is in general rich ; the inland parts producing corn in great plenty, and the fens affording excellent pafture. Lincolnfhire is re- markable for fat cattle, and good horfes ; nor is it re- puted lefs fortunate in its breed of dogs, as well grey- hounds as maftiffs. It abounds in game of all kinds j and the rivers, with the fea, afford plenty of various kinds of fifli. In the Witham is a fort of pike, of excellent quality, and peculiar to this river. So great is the number and variety of wild fowl in this county, that it has been called the aviary of England ; and two fowls, called the knute and the dotterel, which are moft delicious food, are faid to be found no where elfe in England, Lincolnfliire lies in the province of Canterbury and diocefe of Lincoln, and contains fix hundred and thirty pariflies. In refpeA of civil jurifdiflion, is is divided into thee provinces ; firft, Holland, comprehending the fouth-eaft part of the county, which is fubdivided into three wapentakes or hundreds ; fecondly, Kef. teven, comprehending the fouthern part of the countjr, and containing ten wapentakes or hundreds; third- ly, Lindfey, Which comprifes the north part of Lincolnfliire, and is fubdivided into feventeen wapen- takes or hundreds. The whole county is divided into thirty hundreds or wapentakes, and contains one city and thirty-one market- towns. The city is Lincoln, and the market-towns are Alford, Barton, Binbroke, Bofton, Bourn, Bulling- brook. Burgh, Burton, Caftor, Corby, Crowland, Deeping-Market, Ounnington, Fokingham, Ganef- borough, Glandford-bridgc, Grantham, Grimfby. Holbeck, Horncaftle, Kirkton, Louth, Rafen-market, Saltfleet, Sleaford, Spalding, Spilft>y, Stamford, Stan- ton, Tatterflial, and Wainflcet. The city of Lincoln is fituated a hundred and thirty.five miles from London, on the declivity of a hill, with the river Witham running at the bottom in three fmall channels, over which are feveral bridges. This was formerly one of the greatcft cities in Eng- land. It is faid to have had fifty-two parifh-churches, which, in the reign of Edward VI. were reduced by i& of parliament to eighteen. There now remain only thirt':en, which are meaner than thofe of any other city in England. Here is, howevi-r, a cathedral, which is a ftately Gothic pile, and though not the moft beautiful llrufture of the kind, is the principal ornament of the city. It was fo much efteemed by the monks, that they ufedio fay the devil could never loyk at it without frowns of difcontcnt and malig- S T nityj 446 H B MODE N [Europe, Englani nity I whence irofe the proverb generally applied to malicious and envious perfons, '* He looks as the devil over Lincoln." This cathedral it one of the Urgeft in England ; and by its own height and the loftinefs of its fituation, may be feen over five or fix counties, fifty miles to the north, and thirty to the fouth. In this church is a famous bell of an enor- mous fize, called Tom of Lincoln : it is almoft five tons in weight, and twenty- three foot in circumfe rencc, and will contain four hundred and twenty- four gallons of ale meafure. Here are alfo fome cu- rious windows, called Cathurine-wheel windows, a chapter-houfc, cloiAers, and library, that are much admired. On thr fouth fide of the cathedral flands the bifhop's palace, which has formerly been a grand ilruAure, but was demolifhed in the civil wars in the reign of Charles I. and has never been rebuilt. The buildings of this city are generally old, efpe- cially at the bottom of the hill, but towards the top, there ate many good houfes in the modern tafte. Here is an old ruinous ca(lle, creAed by William the Con- queror, in the centre of which is a handfome modern AruAure for holding the aiEzes. In this city are four charity- fchools, where a hundred and twenty poor children are taught by the widows of clergymen. Lincoln is a county of itfelf, and has a vifcountial jurifdiAion for twenty miles round, a privilege en- joyed by no other city in England. It was once burnt, once befleged by king Step' -i, who was here defeated and made prifoncr, and once taken by Henry III. from his rebellious barons. The bifhop's fee had been at Dorchefter during many years^ but was removed hither in the eleventh century. This city was the Lindum of the Romans, A gate called Newport-gate, o.' Roman work is Aill entire, and is the noblell remnant of the kind in England. It confifts of a vaft femicircle of ftones, not cemented, but as it were wedged in together : and clofe to this gate is another piece of Roman workmanOiip, called the Mint wall, which confifts of alternate layers of brick and Aone, and is yet fixteen foot high, and forty long. There are various frag- ments of the old Roman wall which furrounded the city i beftdes many funeral monuments of the Normans. On the top of the hill on which the city (lands, are yet vifible traces of a rampart and ditches, fuppofed to be the remains of the ancient Lindum, which was demoliflicii by the Saxons. I'his city having abounded with monafteries, and other religious houfes, the ruins of many Aill appear in barns, ftablet, out houfes, and even in fome hog- ilyes, which are obferved to be built in the church- fafliion, with ftone-walls, and arched windows and doors. Lincoln has a communication with 'h. river Trent by a canal, called the Fofle-Dyke, cut by king Hen- ry I, between the Trent and the Witham, for the conveniency of carriage. On a courfe at a little dif- tance there are horfe-raccs every year, Grantham is diilant from London a hundred and four miles, and is a handfome, populous town, ''h good inns, and much frequented. Here is a line church, with a flone fpire, one of the loftieft in Eng- land, being two hundred an'i eighty foot high ; but it is fo conArufled as to appear declining from the perpendicular, on whatever fide it be viewed. Hue is alfo a good free-fchool, built and endowed by Richard Pox, bifhop of Winchefter, a native of this place, befides two charity- fchools. On a neighbour- ing courfe there are frequent horfe-races. Paunton, a village fouth of Grantiiam, is fup. pofed to have been the Ad Ponteni of the Romans, not only from the diAant fimiiitude of the names, but from the diAances affigned to other places in refpeiS of this Aation. Chequered Roman pave, ments, and other antiquities, have often been dug up here. Near Hunnington, about five miles from Grantham, is a Roman camp, called Julius Cxfar's double trench ; and here a great number of Roman coins was found in an urn, towards the end of the laA century. Stamford is fituated on the river Welland, upon the borders of Northamptoofliire and Ruilandfhire, at the diAance of eighty-three miles from London. It is one of the moft confiderable towns in the coun- ty, and has a fine ftone bridge .,:>■ the Welland into Northamptonlhtre. This ^oi/n had anciently fourteen churches, which were i:du..:d to half the number by an i& of pailiameiit in the time of Edward VI. One of thofe churches, St. Martin's, Aands upon the eaft fide of the river, in a part of the town called Stamford-Baron, which properly liei in Northamptonlhire, but is rated within the jurif- didion of this corporation, and is therefore included in the name of Stamford. In this church, lord Bur- leigh, the favourite miniAer of queen Elixabeth, lies buried in a fplendid tomb. ' Here are two inns, the Geor.;^e and .he Bull, the former of which is reckoned the largeA, and the latter :hu muA magnificent in England. Here is alfo a fine town-hall, and a cha- rity-fchool for eighty children, with two hofpitals.one of which was built and endowed by lord Burleigh. The chief trade of this town is in malt, fca-cual, and free-Aone, Here is a new courfe for horfe- races. The inhabitants of Grantham enjoy great privi> leges, particularly a freedom from the jurifdiiSiion of thcfherift' of the county, and from being impannclled on juries out of town. They are entitled to have the return of all writs, and are exempted from the go- vernment of all lord lieutenants. The authority of an ancient manufcript has been produced, to prov.': that Stamford was .. univerfity long before the birth of ChriA, and continued fo till the year 300, when it was dilTolved by the pope for adhering to the doiSlrines of Arius. It is gene- rally admitted to have been a univerfity before the reign of Edward III, and here are the remains of two colleges, one called Blackball, and the other Brazen- nofe. On the gate of the latter is yet a brafs nofe, with a ring through it, like that upon thu gate of a college of the fame name at Oxford, which was not built till the raign of Henry the Vllth, and there- fore took its name, as well as thisdiAinguifliing mark, from Brazen-nofe collrge of Stamford. It appears alfo, England.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. T 447 a\(o, that feveral of the (Indents of Oxford removed hither, upon foine quarrel irinng between thefludents of the north and thofe of the fouth, in the time of Edward 111. when, it is probable, there were fome colleges here to receive them, i» they did not (lay a fufiicient time at Stamford to have any built. ' By fome remains of antiquity found here, it appears that this was no inconfiderable place in the time of the Romans ; and there are the traces of a Roman highway from fouth to north, palling through this town ; which affords reafon to imagine that here once was a ferry over the Welland. In the reign of Ste- phen this place was furnilhed with a cafllc, the foun- dation plot of which is yet vifible in the middle of the town. The cuftom of Borough EngliOi, by which the youngefl fon is heir to his father, ftill fub- fifts in Stamford. Deeping' Market is an ill-built town,rituated among the fens, at the diflance of eighty-feven miles from London. Crowiand is diftant from London eighty-eight miles. It is fo furrounded with bogs, that it is ac- cefllble only on the north and eaft (ides, and even there not for carriages ; which gave rife to the pro- verb, that all the carts which came to Crowiand were (hod with filver. The town, however, is well inhabited, and confifts of three (Ireets, feparated by water courfes, planted on each fide with willows. They are built on piles, and have a communication with eaeh other by a triangular bridge of curious contrivance, which ftands at the conflux of the Wel- land, and a river called the Nine, This formed three fegmcnts of a circle, which meet in one point ; and it is faid, that the extremity of each fegment, oppofite to the point of contaA, (lands in a different county, one in Lincolnfhire, another in Cambridge- fhire, and the third in Rutlandlhire, Here is a church, which formerly belonged to a famous abbey at this place. The roof of this chilrch fell in about a century ago, and was found to con- fift of Irifh oak, finely carved and gilt. Over its weft gate are the images of feveral kings and abbots, among which is that of St. Guthliac, to whom the abbey was dedicated. He bears in his hand a whip and knife, his ufual fymbols. At a little diftance from the abbey is a little ftone cottage, called An- chor Church-houfe, in which this faint is faid to have lived as a hermit. The greateft advantage derived by the inhabitants cf this town is from fifh and wild ducks. Of the latter, they fomctimes drive three thoufand into a net at once by dogs ; and they are brought hither by decoy ducks bred for the purpofe. For the liberty of fifhing in the many pools in and near the town, they now pay to the King, as they formerly did to the abbot, three hundred pounds a year. Spalding ftands ninety-eight miles from London, upon the river Welland, by which it is almoft fur- rounded. It is likewife furrounded at a greattr dif- tancc with lakes, canals, and other bodies of water ; and is a more neat and populous town than could be eirpei^ed in fuch a fituatioii. Here is a fpacious mar- ket place, with a free grahtmar fchool for the fons of the inhabitants, and a charity-fchool. The town has alfo a fmall port, and a bridge over the Welland, which is navigable hither for veflels of fifty or fixty tons. To this port belong feveral barges, that are chiefly employed -in carrying coals and corn. Holbeck (lands ninety-eight miles from London, and is remarkable only on account of its fair for cat- tle, corn, and flax. Dunnington is fituated ninety- nine miles from Lon- don. Its market it famous for a Urge fale of hemp and hempfeed j and it has a port for barges, by which goods are carried to and from Bofton, and the Waflicj, Fokingham (lands on the declivity of a hill, a hun- dred and four miles from London, and enjoys a health- ful air, but it a place of no trade. SIcaford, called New Sleaford, to dillinguifh it' from a neighbouring place, is fituated at the diflancc of a hundred and ten miles from London, near the fource of a little river, which runs with fo great ra- pidity through the town, that it is never frozen, and within the compafs of two miles, drives five corn- mills, two fulling-thills, and one paper-mill ; after which it falls into the Witham. This lown is po- pulous, and the buildings are conftantly improving. It has a large handfomc church, with a free-fchool, and an hofpitil for twelve poor men. Bofton is fituated a hundred and fourteen milei from London, upon the river Witham, which is navigable hence to Lincoln. Here is a church, reckoned the largeft parochial church, without crofs- ailes, in the world ; being three hundred foot long within the walls, and a hundred foot wide. The cieling is of Englifh oak, fupported by tall flendcr columns. This church contains three hundred and fixty five ftcps, fifty-two windows, and twelve pil- lars, anfwering to the days, weeks, and months of the year. Its tower, which was built in 1309, is two hundred and eighty-two foot high, and has at the top a beautiful oi^lagon lanthorn, which ferves as a beacon to mariners, when they enter the dangerous channels, called Lynn Deeps, and Bofton Deeps in the Wafhes. It is the admiration of travellers, being fcen at the diftance of forty miles round. Here are two charity-fchools, and a high wooden bridge over the Witham. The town has a commodious harbour, and carries on a good trade, both inland and foreign; yet many of the inhabitants apply themfelves togr.iz- ing of cattle with great advantage. Here is an an- nual fair for cattle, and all forts of merchandize, which lafts during nine days, and is called a mart by way of eminence. The country in the neighbourhood of this town is mar(h lands, which are very rich, and feed vaft numbers of large (heep and oxen. Wainfleet is fituated a hundred and twenty-four miles from London, upon the borders of the fenny country called Holland. It is neatly built, and re- markable only for a fine free- fchool, founded by Wil- liam Patin, a bifhop of Winchefter, and « native of this place Tatterflial Aands at the diftance of a hundred aad eighteen niik's from London, in a marfhy country. Aloft 448 H • E^ M O D E R N [Europe. Moft of the houfes are of brick ) and here ia a caflle famous for its ancient barons. Buling^rook, pr Bollinbroke, lies a hundred miles from' London, and i^ noticed only for its marJcet. Spilfby is fituated ahifndred and twenty-two milet from London, and has a good market, with a cha- rity-fchool. Burgh is diflant froci London a hundred and four miles, and has nothing worthy of notice but a cha- ' rity-fchool, i Horncaflle is di!^»!r,i from London a hundred and twenty two miles, and is a large well-built town, fi- | tuated on a fmall river called the Bane, by which it is almoft furrounded. At the village of Yarburgh, near this place, are the remains of a large Roman camp, where great quantities of Rornai) gpins have been dug up. , ,;;i-j ,', Not far hence lies Scrivelfby-hall, the manor of the Dimocks, who hold it upon condition that, at the coronation, the lord, either in perfon or by proxy, (hall come into the royal prefence well armed, on a war-hurfe, and make proclamation, that if any one (hall fay, that the fovcreign has no right to the crown, he is ready to defend his right againfl: all that {hall oppofe it. Alford is fiiuated a hundred and feven miles from London, a.-'d is a littk obfcure place, mentioned only for its having a market. Louth (lands a buiidred and t)iirty-three miles from l^ondon, upon the bank of a fmall river called the Lud. It has a large chureb, with a fine (ieeple, Here is a free-fchool founded by Edward VI. and a charity-fchuol for forty children. Rafen, called Rafcn-Market, to diAinguilh it from f;a{l, Wed, and' M:dd|e Rafen, is fituated, like the others, near the fource of the Ankham. It is diftant a hundred and thirty-nine miles from London, but con^- tains nothing worthy of note. Ganefborough ilands upon the Trent, at the dif- tanct of a hundred and thirty-feven miles from Lon- don. It is a well-built town, and has a flourifliing trade by meaos of the river, whkh brings up vlTels of conliderable burden with the tide, though it be near forty miles from the Humber by water, llie North Marfli, in the neighbourhood of this town,, is remarkable for hoffe-races. At Marten, neat Gancfborough, are fome remains of a Roman highway, leading from-Doncafler in York- fhire to Lincoln ; and aboul.ii quarter of a mile from the town, arc fome confiderable pieces of Romitp pavement. Stow, a village near Gapefborough, was formerly » city called Sidnacefler, and ia f^ppofed to. have bpcn a Roman (lation. On fome hills between Ganefborough and a neigh- bouring village, called Lea, many Roman coins and pieces of urns have been dug up; and one of thofe hills, called Caftle-hill, is furrounded wi:h entrench- ments, faid to indofe abqvo a hundred acres. ; Littleburough, a fmall town about three miles from Ganeiboroagh, is fuppofed to be the Angelocum or Lcgelocum of the Romans. I Kirkton Aands at the diftancc of a hundred and thirty- fix miles from London, and is famous for a fort of apple, called the Kirkton pippin. Here is a magni. (icent church, built in the form of a cathedral. Caller, or Thong CalUe, is fituated a hundri:d and twenty miles from Londoi), but has nothing worthy of note. This place is faid to have derived its name from the following circumilancc : Hciigill, the Suxon, at a reward for having repelled the Scots and Pids, obtained from Vortigern a grant of as inucli ground here as he could cncompafs with the hide of an ox cut into fmall thongs, On this ground hs built a caflle, which was hence called I'hong Cadle. Grim(by is diHant from Lopdon a hundred and fifty-eight miles, and in point of antiquity, is faid to be the fecond, if not the iirft corporation in Eng. land. The town is well-built, and contains fevcr.il nrccis, with a church that has the appearance uf a cathedral. It was formerly a place of great trade, but its harbour has been long choaked up. The road before it, however, is a good (lation for fhips that wait for a wind to get to fea ; and it has a trade in corn and fait, by the navigation of the Humber. Glandfotd Bridge (lands a hundred and dfty-three miles from London, and is remarkable only fur a bridge over the livcr Ankham. Barton is fituated a hundred and fixty-three miles from London, apd has a horfc>-ferry to Hull, acrofs the river liumbcr, which is here fix miles over. Burton, called likewife Burton'Stather, (lands a hundred and forty-nine miles from London. The houfes arc pleafantly intermixed with trees, and it has two churches, ofie of which it Co low, in refpeft of the precipice over it, that a perfon may almofi leap from the; preqipice.oa thefleeple. This place is well fituated for trade on the eaft bank of the Trent, on which it has feveral mills. Lincolnfhirc is part of the country which, in the time of the Romans, was inhabited by the Coritani. I The great Sir Ifaac Newton was a native ot this dif- tri£t, and was taught the firft rudiments of learning at the free grammar-fchool of Grantham, This coun- ty is not remarkable for any manufa£lure, and fends to parliament twelve members, viz. two knights of the (hire, two members for the city of Lincoln, and two for e^ach of the following boroughs, namely, Stamford, Grantham, Boflon, and Grinifby. YORKSHIRE. York(hire is bounded on the fouth by Lincolnfliirf, Nottinghamlhire, and Derby(hir« ; on the weft, by Chediite and Lancafhire j on the nocth, by the coun- ties of Durham and WcAmoreland ; and on the eaft, by the German Ocean. It is by much the largell county in England, extending in length a hundred and fourteen miles, and in breadth tighty. This county is watered by many rivers, the chief of which' ar« the Don, the Calder, the Are, the Wharfe, the Lidd, the U re, the Swale, the Oufe, the [EuRoPe. hundrej and 9US for a fore c is a magni- hedral, huiidri;d and hing worthy vcd its name Itngift, the the Scots and of as inucli li the hiJe of ground he illcd Thong hundred and ty, is fajd to ion in Eng. 1 tains fever.il learancc of a F great trade, ), The road for (hips that as a trade in Hunibcr. nd fifty-three e only for a y- three miles Hull, acrofs lilet over, cr, ftands a ondon. The es, and It has in rel'peil of f almoft leap i place is well le Trent, on which, in the the Coritani. ve of this dif- :s of learning I'his coun- re, and fends vo knights of Lincoln, and ghs, namely, iifby. £. Lincolnfliirf, the weft, hjr by the coun- I on the eaft, h the largeft ;th a hundred !rs, the chief the Are, the I, the Oufe, the '% , '■ %^/^/.'orr7K//// ,/% /^/V.v/ 7/r,,l, y/r//^ /v/ , / // /^^,!r .?>?.; ^^.«.^«. ^X. /C... ^^/..,A/ „,X./... ^i^,^;, „„„.,,^^ England.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 449 'if/M the Dsrwent, the Hull, the Humber, the Ribble, and the Tecs. The river Don rifes iiejr the borders of Cheffiire, not far froiii Barncdey, and running fouth-caft to Sheffield, it thence diredls its courfe north-eaft, and falls into the Arc at Sneth, a market-town of this county. The CalJer rifes in Lancafliire, and run- ning eaftivard, falls into the Are about five miles .lorih-caft of W.nkcficld. The Are illues from the boliom of a high hill, called Pennigent, near Settle, upon the borders of Lancafhire, whence running eaft- ward, and being joined by the Don and the Calder, it falls into the Oufe not far from Sncth, The Wharfe rifes in a wild Aony trafl, called Craven-hills, north of i'ennigcnt-hill, whence running almoli pa- rallel to the river Are, it falls into the Oufe fouth- eafl of I'adeaflcr. The Nidd rifes alfo among the Craven-hills, and running nearly parallel to the Wharfe, falls into the Swale, a few miles cad of Knarefborough. The Ure, Eure, Yore, or York, rifes in a mountainous tra£l on the borders of Weft- moreland, and running fouth-eaft, joins the o,.ale near Burrow-bridge, The Swale rifes near the fpring of the Ure, and runs with a rapid Aream fouth-eaft, through a tra£l of country to which it gives the name of Swalefdale. Near Richmond it forms a cataraA, whence continuing its courfe fouth>ea(l, and being joined by the Ure, and other rivers, the united ftream is called the Ure, till it arrives at the city of York. where receiving a fmall ftream called the Oufe, it aflumes this name, and, running eaftward falls into the Humber, not far from Howden. The Derwent rifes at a little diflance from Whitby, and, running fouthward, falls into the Oufe near Howden. The Hull has its fource in a wild part of the county, called York-Woulds, near Kilham, and, running fouth by Beverley, falls into the Humber at Kingfton-upon- Hull. The Humber is an xftuary of many rivers, and the largeft in Britain. It is called Humber, from the conflux of the Oufe and Trent, to its irouth, where it falls into the German Ocean. Being properly an arm of the lea, it regularly ebbs and flows, the for- mer of which motions it performs with prodigious rapidity, and a roaring noiC;. This reflux is called the Hygre, and is dangerous to thofe failors who are jiot acquainted with it. The Ribble rifes among the Craven-hills, whence, running fouth by Settle and Gilborn, it paflTes into Lancafhire, not far from the latter of thofe towns. The Tees rifes on the borders of Cumberland, whence running fouth-eafl, and re- ceiving lefs confiderable Dreams, it afterwards dire£ls its courfe north-north-caft, and feparating Yorkfhire from the county of Durham, difcharges itfelf into the German Ocean. The lefs conHderable rivers of this county are the Waflibrook, the Cock, the Rother, the Iddle, the Wen, the Hebdcn, the Hyde, the Rabuk, the Dont, the Revel, the Gret, and the Foulnefs. . The air, foil and produ£lions of this extenfive county being different in different parts, it is necefl*ary to anticipate its general divifion into three parts, called Ridings. This name, which exprefl'cs the third part No 38. of a county, was common to other counties in the north of England, before the Conquefl, but is now peculiar to Yorkfhire. The Ridings of this county, each of which is as large as moft others, are dil- tirguifhed by the namesof the Weft- Riding, the Eaft- Riding, and the North. Riding. The firft of thole is bounded on the eaft by the river Ou' , which fepj- rates it from the Eaft-Riding, and 01 the north by the Ure, which divides it from the North-Riding : the Eaft and North Ridings are feparated by the Derwent. The air in the Weft- Riding is (harper, but more healthful, than in cither of the other two. The ground on the weftern fide of this divifion is hilly and ftony, and therefore not very fruitful ; but tht intermediate valleys afFoid plenty of good meadow aijd pafture land. On the fide of this Riding, next the river Oufe, the foil is rich, producing wheat and barley, though not in fo great abundance as oafs, which are cultivated with fuccefs in the moft bar- ren parts of this diftrift. The Weft- Riding is famous for fine horfes, goats, and other cattle j and here are foroe trees, which are feldom found wild in any other part of England, particularly the fir, tl.v yew, and the chefnut. This Riding abounds with parks and chafes, and contains many mines of pit-coal and jet. In feveral parts are alfo mines of flone, which by a pe- culiar procefs is made into alum. The chief manufac- tures of this Riding are cloth and iron wares ; and it is remarkable for curing legs of pork into hams, like thofe of Weftphalia. The Eaft-Riding is the fmalleft of the three, and the -Ir here, on account of the neighbourhood of the German Ocean, or the great xftuary of the Hum- ber, is left pure and healthy ; yet on the hilly parts, towards the north-weft, in a large trafi called Yurk- Woulds, the air is little aifc£led by thofe caufes. The foil, however, in general, is dry, fandy, and bar- ren i but the WouMs produce fome corn, and feed great numbers of black cattle, horfes, and fheep, the wool of which is equal to any in England. The fca-coaft and vallies in this divifion are fruitful ; and it yields plenty of wood, pit-coal, turf, jet, and alum- ftones ; and the inhabitants are well fupplied with fi.-a and river fifli. The principal manurafiujc of this Riding is cloth. The North-Riding is the nor' ern boundary of the other two, and the air here is colder and purer than in thofe abovementioned. The eaftern part of this Riding, which is called Blackmoor, is a mountainous and woody country ; and the north- weft, called Rich- mondfhire, confifts of one continued eminence, or ridge of rocks and vaft mountains, the fides of which yield good grafs, and the vallies at the bottom are very fruitful. The hills afford goats, with deer of a very large fize, and contain mines of lead, copper, alum- flone, and coal j but of thofe, the coal and alum mines only are wrought. Swalefdale abounds with fine pafture ; and Wantefdale, watered by the Ure, is a rich, fruitful v:illey, fupplying great quantities of wood, and ftocked with large herds of cattle. To- wards the fea-coaft are found great quantities of jet, 5 U and 45° THE MODERN [Europe. aiid at E^'glefton, north-wed of Richmoixl, there U a fine marble quarry. The lea nf.ir this coall Iwaniii with herrings in the fealbn, and afFurdi great plenty of other fifli, as well as the rivers ; amnn|j which tht Urc is rtniiirkiible tor cray-tifli. 'I he pnneipjl man.ifadures ot this Riding are cloth, Ouckin^s and alum. YorliOiire lies in the province and diocefe of York, except Richmonilfhiri.-, which belongs to the diuccfe of Cheftcr ; and it contains five hundred iind fixty- three parifhes. The Ridings of this county are fub divided into twenty-fix wapentakes or hundreds, of which the Weft. Riding contains ten, the Euft Rid- ing four, and the North Riding twelvi. York.fl)ire has only one city, but contains fifty-four maiket- towns. The city is York i and the mari^et- towns ate, Aberforth, Aldborough, li.irncfley, Bantr;, 13rad- forth, Burrowbridge, Doncafter, Gifborn, Halifax, i^luthcrfield, Knarcfborough, Leeds, Otiey, Pontc- fraiit, Ripley, Rippon, Rotheram, Selby, Settle, Shcflidd, Sherborn, Skipton, Sncth, I'adcafler, Thorn, Tickhall, Wakefield, and Wciherby, all u\ the Wtll-Riding. In the Eafl-Ridiiig are Beverly, Bridlington, Hcadon, Hornfey, Howden, Kilham, Kiiigfton-upon Hull, Petrington, Pocklington, and Wighton. In the North-Riding are Northallerton, Afluig, Bedall, Gifborough, Helmllcy, Kirby-mor- fide, Malton, Mafham, Midlam, Pickering, Rich- raond, Scarborough, Stokeflcy, Thirfk, Whitby, and Yarum. The city of York flands on a point where the boun- daries of the three Ridings meet, and being alfo a county of itfdf, it belongs properly to none of the Ridings. It is pleafantly fituated on the river Oufe, a hundred and ninety-eight miles north-by-weft of London. This is the fee of an archbifhop, and has been generally reckoned, next to London, the chief city in England : but though it exceeds Briflol in e.ttent, yet the latter is greatly fuperior in the number of inhabitants, as well as in trade and riches. York is encompafTed with walls, in which are four large well-built gates, and five pofterns. The houfes are for the mofl part old, and built of timber. It had formerly forty-one parifh-churches, and feventeen cha- pels, belidcs a cathedral ; but the pariflias are now reduced to twenty-eight, and the parifh-churches in ufe are no more than feventeen. The cathedral having been burnt down in the reign of Stephen, the prefent fabric was begun in the reign of Edward I. and is by fome reckoned the fineft Gothic building in England. It extends in length five hundred and twenty-five foot, in breadth a hun- dred and ten foot, and in height ninety-nine. The length of the crofs-ailes is two hundred and twenty- two foot ; the nave, the largcft of any, except that of St. Peter's church at Rome, is four foot and a half wider, and eleven foot higher, than that of St. Paul's cathe- dral in London. At the weft end arc two towers, conncdlcd and fupported by an arch, which forms the weft entrance, and is reckoned the largcft Gothic arch in Europe. In the fouth tower, on the we'^ fide, is a deep peal of twelve bells, the tenor weigh- ing fifiy-nine hundred weighf. At the foutu ml of the church is a circular window, a'lcj the Marifjold Window, from the gi.-.fs being ll£tagoiial form, hxty-llircu .''';i.t in di.)me- ter, without any pillar to fupport the rouC, which refls upon one pin placed in the centre, 'I lie win- dows are finely painted and finiflicd, with an arch at the top i and within is the following haibjrouj verfe, in gilt letters, which (hews the high opinion that was entertained of this edifice, Vt rtfa Jits fsrum, fie ifl domHS ifia donurum. Of the parifh-churches three only are remarkable. Alhallow's church, a Gothic flru£kure, has the mo(f inagnilicti't ftccpic of any in England ; St. Mary's has a ftceplc in the foimof a pyramid, which is nuicH admiicd ; and St, Margaret's has a ftceplc like that of St. Mary's, with a magnificent porch, on the top of which is a crucifixion cut in ilone. Here arc two market- houfes, one of which is a cu- rious piece of architeiHiire, fupported by twelve co- lumns of the Tufcan order. Near the cathedral i» an all'embly room for the nobility and gentry, which was defigned by the latt; earl of Burlington, and ercft. ed by fubfcription. The hall of this building is a hundred and twenty-three foot long, forty broad, and upwards of forty foot high. It communicates with the ball room, which ii fixty-fix foot long, twenty- two foot broad, and as many high. The archiepifco- pal palace, which ft'ands near the cathedral, witit the houfes of the dean and prebendarict, makes a no- ble appearance ; and the city is alfo adorned with a handfome manfion-houfe for the chief magiftrate, which was ereAcd in 1718. A caftle was built here by William the Conqueror, which was repaired in the beginning of the prefent century, and is now the place where the alTizes are held : part of it is alfo ufed for a prifon. It has a handfome chapel, with a good ftipend for a preacher ; and a large loaf of fine bread is given to every debtor that attends the fervice. The wards are all kept clean ; the very felons are allowed beds j and there is an infirmary feparated from the common prifon, where the fick are properly attended. Here is h flone bridge, with five arches over the riwr Oufe : the centre arch is eighty-one foot wide, and fifty one foot high ; and the bridge is fo crouded with buildings, that it looks like a ftreet. Among thofe buildings are a guild-hall, a record office, an lAchequer, an apartment in which the fherifl's courts are held, and two city prifons for debtors and felons. Some t; uRory. a'IcJ the ii tn fir.. 'v l-Jl'llllli <•' cl.iiir ja lvi,.;'.:iul, Vldi j aiiJ '''-•, Willi ilitr. is tflcem- tngland. ill liiamc- lof, whicli 'I he wiii- ih an ardj opinion England.] GENERAL TRAVELLER Some years ago a ntnnufainuro of cclton wai 45' rftablifhed here, which is now brought (o perlediun, and proves to be very advantag'-uus. The chief magillr.itc of t\ui ciiy has the title of lord-mayor. York Ik divided into four wards } and the lord-mayor and aldermen have the confervcncy of ihc rivers Oule, Humbcr, VVharfe, Derwcnt, Are, and IJon, within certain limits. The reprefcn- tativei of this city in parliament have a tight to At upon the privy counftllcrs bench, next to the citi- zens of London } a privilege which the reprcfcnu- lives of both cities claim on the ftrft day of the mqet- ing of every new parliament. The city of York is by Ptolemy called Brlgantium, but more generally known among the Roman writers by the name Khorasum It was a Roman colony, as appears not only from i\k le.limony of Ptolemy and Antoninus, but from many iiifcriptions which have been found here. 'I'he emperor Scverus rthdcd a confideiable lime in this city, and dying here, hit afhes were carried hence in a golJcrn urn to Rome. Conftantius Chlorus alio died at this place ) and here his fon Conllantinc the Grea', was, upon his father's deccafe, declared emperor by tlie Roman foldiers. It is faid, that in a vault belonging to a little chapel here, in which Conftantius was thought to have been buried, a lamp was found burning, about the time of the difTolution of inonallcries. No Icfs than three Ronjati ways pafTed through this city {. and here was a.tompio dedicilted to I^el; lona. There are dill to be feen fome remains, of Roman buildings, particularly an arch at a place called Micklegate-Bar, feveral parts of the city walls, and a polygonal tower, near a pUce called the Mint- yard, Adjoining to Botham.Bat,' in this city, was the burying.place of the Romtuis,. after the pradlice of interring the dead, indead :of burning them, had been introduced. Many pieces of antiquity have here been dil'covcrcd, fuch as urn:, lachrymatories, and a variety of funcraJ implements, . . Hull, or Kiiigfton'-upon-Hull, is fltuatcd a hun- dred and fixty-nine miles from London, at the con- flux of the river Hull and the Humbcr, and near the place where tlie latter opens into the German Gccan- It lies lb low, that by cutting the banks of the Hum- ber, the country may be laid under water for £vc niilL^ round. I'owarda the land it is defended by a u'allaivd a ditch, with the farther fortification of a <:a^Uc^ a citadel, and a block-houfe. The town is large and populous, containing two churches, feveral meeting houfes, a free-fchool, a chaiiiy-fchool, and fome holpitalst Among th^ latter is one called Tri- iiity-houle, in which are maintained many dillrefled fean-.en, both of Hull and other places, that are mem- bers of its pnrr. Here is alfo an exchange, and a cuflom-houfe,'and over thciHull, a (tone bridge con- lining of fourteen arches, A good harbour was ninde here by Edwarcf I. or RicliaiJ II. This town has not v aly the inoft cpiifiderabli? in- '-Jand tr.idiC'Or any port in the north o( Kngland, but a foreign trade fuperior lo any in the kingdom, except- ing the ports of London, Briftol and Yarmouth. By means of the many large rivers that fall into the Humbcr, it trades to almoft every part of Yorkfhire, as well as to Lincolnlhire, NottinL;h,imlhire, Siaf- lordfliire, Dcrbyfliire, and Chefliirc ; the cnmmodi- ties of which counties are brought hither, and ex- p'jrtcd to Holland, Hamburg, Kranre, Spain, the lialtic, and other parts of turopi". In return for ihofe, arc imported iron, copper, hemp, flaxj canvas, Ruflia linen and yarn, bclides wine, oil, fruit, and other articles. Such quantities of corn arc alio brought hither by the navigable rivers, that Hull exports more ofer of this faring is very iraiif- parent, of an inky fni II, but no dilngreeable talle, and is impregnated witli iron, vitriol, alum, nitre, and | fult. It is purgative and diuretic j recommended for removing obflruifiions, and fuch diforders ai proceed from a vifcid flate, or too flov a motion of the blood, This place is alfo frequented for fea-bathing. Whitby is fituated on the German Or an, at the mouth vf a fmall river called the Eflc, two hundred stui twent'-f'ven miles from London, It is a well- built town, and hai a ciftom houfe, wi:h a good haibotir, niu.'h frequented by the colliers. The beft and (Irniigeil vclTeh ufed in Eiigland for the coal trade, are built in this port. Upwards of a hundred vcflels, of eighty tons or more, belong to it ; and vail quaotiticii cf corn and butter arc ''ent hence to London, and fometim'^s to Holland, Kilham (lands in York-Wonlds, at the diftance of a hundr?u and ninety-eight miles from London, but contains nothing remarkable. Beverley is diftant from London i I-Mndred and fcventy- nine miles. It extends above a mile in length, and the ftreets are fp^ciuus and well-paved. Here were formerly four parifh-churches, which ar^ now reduced to two; but thefe are reckoned the (ineft ;ind largeft parochial churches in England. St. John'i was a collegiate church, founded by king AthelO-an : it was repairid in the reign of George I. and fir Mi- chael Wharton left by will four thoufand live hun- dred pouniis to keep it in perpetual repair. The length of this building is three hundred and thirty- four foot, the breadth of the traiifept a hundred and Axty-eight foot, and that of the nave and fide ailes, fixty-four foot. It is remarkable, that the north wall of the great-crofs aile, which declined about ■hree f-Tit und a half from the perpendicular, was reftored by an engine contrived by Mr. Thornton, of York. Over the altar of this church is a magnificent wooden arch, curioufly cut, and Aipported by eight flutea columns of the Corinthian order. The fkreen between the choir and the nave has been lately rebuilt in the Gothic manner, and is one of the principal ornaments of the church. In former times this church had the privilege of a fancluary for perfons fufpefted of capital crimes j and at the upper end of the choir is ftill to be ftefl the chair of refuge, called Freed-Stool, confiding of one ftone, with a well of water behind. It it faid to have been brought from Dunbar in Scotland, and has the following infcription: " H« fedes lapidia Frced-Stool diritur, i. e. pacis cathedra ad quam reus fugiendo pcrvcniens omnimodam habct fecuritatcm." I Hci. it a freefchool, which it improved by two fdlowfli'ni, fix fchoJarfhipi, and three exhibitions to St. John's college in Cambridge } befidci a charily- fchool, a workiioufe, and feven almi-houfci, Near S', John'i church is a fpacioui building, called Hall-(iarth, in which the feffioni and provolt'i court •tre held. A common jail was lately rebuilt ) and here is a nutrlkctpl.'icc, containing four acres of ground. It is adorned with a bv.iutiful crofs, fupported by eight coluinna, each of one ftone, crefled at the charge of fir Charles Hotham and fir Mi..hael Wharton, Th'; lelTtons for the Eaft-Riding arc always held here, and a court of record is kept, called the Fruvoft'a court, in which may be tried all caufei that arife withi,. ho liberties of the town, except titles to land. The corporation is laid tu have a juril'di^ion in criminal matters, but at prefent it is not exerted. From :he river Hull to this town runs a channel, anciently lUf, and improved about forty years ago, by which there is k conveyance for (hips of confidcrabl* burden. Here was formerly a cloth manufadlure i but the priiicipal manufactures at prefent are malt, tanned leather, and bone- lace, in which the town fniitt on a confiderable trade. .1 PockPngton is diftant from London a hundred and eighty- three miles, and contains nothing worthy of note. Pickering is fituated two hundred and twenty-fix miles from London, on ■ hill, simong '.be mountains of Blackmoor. It is a town of confidnable extent, belonging to the duchy of Lancafler, and has a Jurif- didion over feveral neighbouring villages, with a uourt for all atHions under forty fliillings arifing within the honour of Pickering. Gifborough is pleafantly fituated on • rifinggfound, four miles fouih-eaft of the mouth of the river Teci, and .wo hundred and fourteen miles frotn London, It is a Well-built town, having in its neighbourhood • harbour for (hips ; and the inhabitants are diAiu- guifhed for their civility and ncatnefii. Stokclly ftands upon the banks of the river Wi(h, at the diftance of two hundred and feventeen miles from London. It confifts of one well-built flreet, about half a mile loilg, with a very good matket, and a fair for cattle, reckoned thegreatefl in England. Kirby-Morefide was originally called Kiikby, but received the epithet Morefide, to diflinguifh it from many other towns in 'he north of England, called Kirkby. It ftands on the fide of Blackmoor, a hun- dred artd ninety-eight miles from London, and con- :ains nothing worthy of notice.' Walton is didant from London a hundred and ninety- nine miles, and is a borough by prefcription. It is divided by the river Derwent into the old and new towns, which communicate with each other by a good flone bridge over the river. It is a populous place, with three handfonie pariih-churchcs, and good inns ; and has the bed market in the county for horfcs, black cattle, and tooh for hufbandry. Howden is fituated a hundred and feventy- three miles from London, near the north bank of the river Oufe, Evnorr.. Jj»ed by two Ixhibliion) to lei « charity. lilding, calleJ Irovod'i Court Ircbiiilc ) and Jeio( ground, nupported by It th« clurge hanon, Jalivayi held (the Fruvoli't tt that arife jept lilies to la juril'Ji^joa ■not exerted, ji a channel, lyenra ago, by connderablc ire i but the nalt, tanned vn carries on hundred and g worthy of d twenty- Hx he mountains rable extent, d has a jurif« , with a b'ourt ig within the i(ing ground, B river Teei, oin London. ;bbourhood a I are difliu- ri»er Wiflj, enteen miles built ftreet, ;ood maticet, : in England. Kirkby, but uifl) it from ;land, called noor, a hun> >n, and con- lundred and prefcription, the old and icb other by I a populous irchcs, and the county jfbandry. irvcnty. three of the river Qufe, Enqland.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 45J Oufc, which fometimrs hiys the town under water. Hcie ii a church, which w«i foimerly collegiate, With a very tall (leeple, created by Walter Jkitlaw, bifhop (if Durhiiin, who lived in the fourteenth cen- tury, for a pl;i w- of ii-curity to the inhabitants againft inundations. Near the church is a palace belonging to the bifhop of Durham, who is polTefll-d of fevcral cftatei, with a temiinr.!! juriUiiftiDn in and about thii town. An annual lair it hell here, to which the London tr;idcrs greatly refurt. At Metham, not tiir from Howden, upon the bank of the Oufe, which appears to have been the Abus of Ptolemy, has been difccvered a Roman pottery, where their urns, and other earthen veflels, were made. ' clmcfley is diflant from London a hundred and ninety-fcvcn miles, and is a ftn.ill ubfcure place. Yarum is fituated two hundred and twelve miles from London, on the fuuth bank of the river Tees, over which it has a fine ftonc hridgc, and by the na- vigation of which it carries on a good trade to Lon- don in lead. Corn, and butter. Thiiflc, or Thrufk, is diftant from London ahun- dred and ninety nine mileii, and is a borough by prefcription. Aldoro'ijjh, 01 Oldliorougli, is fituated on the bank of the L'rc, a hundred und fixty-cight miles from London. It is an ancient borough, as its name im- ports, and has a good church. This town was the Ifurum Brigantum cr the Romans, and, except the remains of antiquity found in it, contains nothing worthy of note. In the time of 'hat people it was a confiderable city, and a place of great Areiigth. By the ruins of the ancient walls, it ai,Dears that they were four yards thick, and built upon a foundation of large pebble-ftones, about five yards deep. They formed a complete fquare, and included fixty acres of ground. It is generally fuppofed that this city was dcftroycd by the Danes ; and from the foil it feems to have been burnt. Here have been difcovered the fragments of aquedufts cut in great (tones, and covered with Roman tiles. A vault, leading, as is imai^iiicd to the river, and fuppofed to have been a repolitory for the dead, was difcovered here in the time of Charles I. Vaft quantities of Roman coins, moftly of brafs, with fignets, varioudy engraved, have been found at this place; befiJes pavements, urns, and other vcflcls. Rippon is fituated between the Ure and a fmall flicam called the Sl;ell, at the diftance of a hundred and ninety miles from London. It is a well. built, populous town, and of great antiquity. Here is a vcnorablf, old Gothic church, which is both paro- chial and collegiate, and has three fteeples, with fpires. The niarkit place is eftcemed the fineft fquare of the kind in England, and is adorned with an obclifk. Here are nh'o two Hone bridges over the Ure, one of which confifts of thirteen or fourteen arches. This town had formerly a confiderable trade in the woollen manufaflure, which it has loft, though it contiiities a flaple for wool. At prcfent it is noted for a manulai^luic of the bed fpurs in England. In No. 38. the neighbourhood is a common, which ii much ufed for horfe races. In 169J, n confiderable number of Saxon coini Mat found at this place i and near the church thert is a large mount, called HilOiaw, fuppo.'ed to have been call up by the Danes, In the rimes of popery the church of Rippon was famou: for a piece of priclt- craft pra^ifeJ in it, by which the canons got much money. Between the church and a clofc vaulted room, ran a firait palTagc, which was fo contrived, that none could pafs through it but fuch as were favoured with particular directions or affiftance. The palTage was called St, Wilfrid's needk, ana was ul'ed to prove the chadity of any woman ful'pe£led of incontinence. If (he bribed the pried (he pallcil through it, and was reputed challe ; but if the gholtly father was not fatisfied, (he (tuck in the palTagc. Burrowbridge, or Boroughbridge, is didant from London two hundred and nine miles. Here is a done bridge over the river Ure ; and the chief fupport of the place is a manufacture of hardware. Near this town are three huge donei, in the form of pyramid* called the Devil's Bolts, and generally fuppofed to have been a Roman trophy | but fome antiquaries are of opinion that they were Britif^ dvities. The num- ber of them is lujr, which dood in a draight line j but one was difplaced about the beginning of this century, in hopes of finding money under it, Knare(borough dands a hundred and feventy-five miles from London, is a borough by prefcription, and almod furrounded by the river Nidd. At this place are four medicinal fpringi, which were formerly much frequented. Though fituated not far from each other, they are of very different qualities. One of them, didingui(h."d by the name of the Sweet Spaw, or Vi- trioline Well, has its fource in Knare(borough fore(t', about three miles from the town : it was difcovered in 1620, and reckoned of great efficacy in feveral dif orders. Another of thofe fprings is called the Stink- ing Spaw, or the Sulphur Well, from its ftrong ful- phureous fetid fmell : it is generally ufed by bathing, in rheumatic and paralytic cafes ; and is drank in dropfical, fcarbutic, and arthritic complaints. A third fpring is crlled St. Mongah's, or Mongo's Well, from Mungo, a Scotti(h faint, once greatly revered in thofe parts : it is above four miles from the town, and ufed as a cold bath. The fourth is in the town, and is called the Dropping Well, becaufe the water drops out of a fpungy porous rock, into a done ba- fon. This fpring is endowed with a remarkable petri- fying quality. Wetherby dands a hundred and feventy-eight milei from London, and is a good trading town, with a charity-fchool. At Halesford, near this town, are remains of a Roman military way, Tadcader is fituated a hundred and eighty-two miles froin London, This town has a fine done biidge over the Wharfe, with a free-fchool, and an hofpital for twelve poor perfons, Tadcader is generally fuppofed to have been the Calcaria of the Romans : feveral Roman coins have been dug up here, the remains of a trench are yet vifible round the town, 5 X m4 454 H M O E N [EUROPI. ■nd here ii the platform of an old cafilc or fort. Some, however, ire of opinion, (hat Newton-Kyme, near Tadcaflcr, wai the Koman Calcaria, h nandi upon the military way that rum thruu)(h Klaniford ) and many Roman coini, urni, and other antiquitici, have been dug up at this place. Aberforth, or Aberfnrd, it a fmall Inconfiderable town, near the river Cock, at the dillance of two hundred and ten milei from London. Sherborn is diflant from London a hundred and feventy-nx milei, and it a fmall town, but haa an hofpital for twenfy-four orpbani. Selby (lands on the river Oufe, a hundred and fe- venty-two milei from London, Here it a handfome church, with a charity- fchool i and the town has a conflderable trade. Snath is fituoted near the conflux of the rivers Are and Don, a hundred and feventy-five miles from Lon- don, and is a fmall town of good trade, by means of the navigation of thofe rivers, Ooncaftcr ia diftant from London a hundred and fifty- five miles, and flands on the river Dun, over which there arc two fine ftone bridges. Here is a ruinous callle, and a neat church, with an admirable (leeple, bcfides a town-hall and an hofpital. This place was a Roman town called Danum, both in the Itinerary and the Notitia ; and here the lieutenant of the Crifpinian horfe, under the governor of Britain, was quartered. In the church of this town is a tomb-ftone, with the following remarkable infcription : *' Howe. Howe. Who is heare, I Robin of Don- cafiere, and Margaret my feare ; that I fpent that I had, that I gave that I have, that I left that I loft. A. D. 1579. Quoth Robertui Byrkes, who in this world did reign threefcore years and fcven, and yet lived not one," Bautree is fituated a hundred and forty-feven miles from London, upon the bank of the river Idle, It has a great trade in mill floncs,grind-ftones,li-ad, and iron, which arc conveyed hither by the navigation from Derbyfhire. Rotheram i« fituated near the bank of the Rorher, at its confluence with the Don, and is diftant from Lon- don a hundred and fixty-one miles. It is a neat town, with a church built in the form of a cathedral, a cha- rity-fchool, and an alms-houfc, with a fine ftone bridge over the Don. This place was formerly much noted lor an iron raanufaflory, Pontefrafl, or Pomfret, is diftant from London a hundred and fixty-ninc miles, and is a neat well-built town, about a mile in lengtn. It had formerly two churches, but at prefent only one church and a cha- pel, with a town-hall, and a charity-fchool. Here is alfo a fpacious market-place, with a ruinous caftle. Adjoining to the town is a courfe for horfe-racet ; and the country around abounds in lime-ftone, as well as in liquorice and ftirrups. Caftleford, near Pontefrafl, appears to have been the Legeolium, or Legetuum of the Romans, and Aands upon a Roman military way, that runs from Doncafler to Aberforth, Vaft quantities of Roman coins have bee dug up here, and art called by the in- habitants of the neighbourhood, Saracens heads. VVakettvId it diftant from London a hundred and feveniy-two miles, and ftands on the river Calder, over which it hat a ftone bridge. It is a large, well built town, which, though not a corporation, it faij to contain mure inhabitanti than the city o> York. It cunlills chiefly of three great ftreeti, and iiai only one church, which it a large Gothic ftru£lure, with a charity-fchool for fixty-three children, fupporled by the inhabitants. In the market-place it a beautiful croft, confiftmg of an open colonade of the Doric order, fupporting a dome, and a lanthorn at the top, under which it a room for tranfafling the public bufi- neft of the town, Thit place hat been lung famous for the woollen manufaAure, and carries on a confi- derable trade in cloth and coals, by the navigation of the Calder. Leeds is fituated on the river Are, a hundred and eighty- one miles from London, and is one of the largeft and moft flourilhing towns in the county. It has two chi xhes, one of which only, dedicated to St. Peter, is parcc'iial. This is a venerable old pile, built uf free ftone, in the manner of a cathedral ) and on the infide it it finely painted in frefco, by Par- mcntier. Here are feveral prefbyterian meeting- houfei, among which one, called the New Chapel, it the beft in the north of £ngland. Here is alfo a frec- fchool, with a library, a work-houl'c, an hofpital, and three alms-houfes. Other public buildings are, a guild- hull, with a marble ftatue of queen Aniir, a magnifi- cent hall for the fale of white cloth, nud a houl'e called Red-ball, becaufe it was the firft brick build- ing in the town. In this edifice Charles I. had an apartment, flill known by the name of the King's Chamber. Here is likewife a market-crofa, and a good ftone bridge over the Are. Leeds has been long famous for the woollen mi- nufadture, which its merchants, with thole of York and Hull, ihip off for Holland, Hamburgh, and the North, After ringing the market-bell, about fix or leven o'clock in the morning, the chapmen repair to the part of the town allotted for the mart, and treat for the cloth, of which twenty thoufand pounds worth is frequently been bought up in an hour's time. At h .If an hour paft eight o'clock the bell rings a fecond t me, upon which the clothiers and their chapmen rttire with their treflels, and make way for the linen- drapcr?, hardware- men, ihoe-makers, and otber traders. At the ume time the ihambles are well provided with all forts (if fifh and fleOi. Five hundred horfe-loaJs of apples have been bought up here in a day. This place not only trades in thofe commodities to York, Hull, and Wakefield, by the river Are, but fupplie» the city of York with coala. Here are fome medicinal fprings, one of whichr called St. Peter's Well, is remarkably ccld, and has proved very beneficial in the rickets, rheumatifm, and other complaints. Another, called Eyebright-well, has been found ufeful in diforders of the eyes. Otley (lands at the diftance of a hundred and feveo- ty.fivo EN" ly.fin under England.] E N E R A I. T R A V E r, L E R. 455 ly.fivc tnilci front London, ind ii plc4fSl, feveral uriii, l\^ luei, and I'epulcliral monuments, Alinuft cuniiguuui ii a Roman camp, eniiie, with a Tingle rampart, Ripley ii fiiuated a hundred and eighty-three milcj from London, and cunnfti of one (Itecl, about three furlongs in leii(;th. Here ii a charity- fchool, with a bridge over the Nidd ^ and the neighbourhood ii re- markable for the produ£)ion of liqiiurice, Malhjin it dilUiit from London two hundred and feven milo, and has a cloth niaiiufaiilory, with a corn-mill upon the river Ure. Midlam is fituaicd two hundred and fifty-two miles from London, and has a woollen mnnufailtury, with frequent horfe-raccs in the neighbourhood. Richmond it pleafantly Atuated on an eminence, on the north bank of the river Swale, two hundrrj and fixiy-two miles from London, It is encompallcd with wall«, in which ar« three gates, leading to as many I'uburbi. It it a Urge, populous pUce, equally well-built and paved ) and many of the houfei are of free-Hone. Here are two churches, and a good (lone bridge over the river Swale. This town was built by Allan, one of William the Conqueror's generali, and Aid earl of Richmond, and hat been annexed to the duchy of Lancafler ever Ance the reign of Richard U. The chief manufactures of tnis place are yarn ftock> ings, and woollen knit caps for Teamen. In the neigh- bourhood of the town are annual horfe- races, Cattarick, a village upon the bank of the Swale, near Richmond, was the Catuaradlonium and Catar- ration uf Ptolemy and Antoninus, and was probably fo named from the cataraA formed by the river Swale near this place. In the time of the Romans this was a great city, through which Ptolemy, in an aflrunoraical work, called Magna Conftru^iio, deGcribes the twenty- fourth parallel of north latitude, and makes it didant from the equator fifiy-feven degrees. Cattarick (tands upcn a Roman highway, that crofl'et the river at this place, and by the ruins yet viAble in and around it, appears to have been s city of great extent, and Arongly fortiAed, On the eaft-Ade, near the river, is a huge mount, fecured by four fmaller works i and upon the bank of the river, the foundations of very flrong walls may yet he fecn. In the reign of Charles I, a large pot, conAAing of an uncommon mixture of metals, and capable of containing twenty-four gallons, was found here, almoft full of Roman coins, the greater part of which was copper. Upon a bill in the neighbourhood of this town, ad- joining to a fgrm-boufe, called Thornburgh, have been found many Roman coins. Here have alfo been dug up bafes of old colutjiH*, and ■ brick ioor, with a leaden pipe pafling perpendicularly down into the earth. It is imagined that this was » place for per- forming TacriAces to the infernal gods, that the blood «f thr vifiims defcended by this pipe, and that Thorn- 8 burgh was the Vicut juxtaCatarrai^am, mentioned by Antoninus, Afkrig is didant from London a hundred and fcven- ly-five miles and ii a Imall town, ul lutle nuie. At lUint-brig, near ihia place, are yet to bu lecn the ground.worki of a Roman furiificatiun, containing jbuut Ave acrei, in wliicli may be traced the tounda- tiiini ot ancient biiilJiii ;i. From luinc iiilciipliuni ihat have been fuuiul, ic is cunjeiitured that thu fort W.1I called Dracchiuin, ind that the Axth cohort uf the Nervii wa> in garnlmi lure. Skipton l)inds iic.ir the bank uf the river Are, in the middle of the rnuunlaiiluut track o( country called Craven, at the dilUnce of two hundred and twenty- one milet from Luiuloii. It is a Urge, well-built town, and has a handlumc church, with a good li> brary, and u gramniar-lchool. firadforth, or UradfurJ, ii diHant from London • hundred and cighly-threc miles, and has a manufac- ture of cloth, Halifax it Atuated on a gentle declivity near tl i river Calder, a hundred and ninety- nine milct from London. This is reckoned the mult populous, if not the i.'tr;{e(l pariOi in England, containing, beAdes a venerable old church, twelve chapelt, and Axteon mecting-huuTet, mod of which have bells and burv- ing-groundi. Here is a free. fchool, called Queen Eli- zabeth't School, with a good hofpital, and a work- houTe for twenty children. The extraordinary induftry of the inhabitants, in the manufaflure of cloth, particularly kerfeys and fliallooni, hat rendered thii town very flourifhing. Ic hat been computed, that in Halifax alone, a hundred thoufand pieces of flialloon are made in a year { and that one dealer hat traded by commilTion for fixty thoufand poundt worth per annum, in the article oT kerfeyi. Thefts, particularly the pra£lice of (lealing cloth in the night from the tenters, were formerly fo com- mon in and about Halifax, that in the reign of Hen- ry VII. a bye-law, called the Halifax-law, was made to prevent them. By this law, the magidrates of Ha- lifax were empowered to pafs and execute fentence of death on all fuch criminals as were convicted of theft within a certain dillri£t round Halifax, called the Libertiei of the Fored of Hardwick, providing tbaC the value of the thing dolen amounted to more than thirteen pence haU'.penny. On fuch a charge, the per- fon was carried before the bailiff of Halifax, who fum- moned the frith burghers of the feveral towns within the liberties of the Fored of Hardwick, If by thefe he was condemned, his execution Toon followed, which was performed by fevering his head from his body, in the manner hereafter related. Near the town was an engine, in the form of a very high gallows : in the two perpendicular pods were grooves, where a heavy piece of timber, with a fliarp ax Axed in it, was made to Aide up and down by means of a pulley and cord,^ To this g.'dlows the conviiSl was carried, and his neck laid upon a block directly under the ax, which waa Axed at the top of the engine, by fadening one end of the rope on which it was fufpended to either of the per- pendicular ^ i i K ^ %0 T H E M C pendicular pofts. Upon the fignal for execution, the pin being removed, the ax fell down with great force, and cut off the criminal's head. The Halifax-law partly gave occafion to a common litany of the beggars and vagrants of chefe parts, where they frequently fay, From Hell, Hull, and Halifax, Good Lord deliver us, The reafon afcribed for Hull's being fo tremen dous to beggars, is the rigid difcipline they meet within that town, where all foreign poor are whipped out, and t'.ie poor of the town fet to work. Barncfley, called alfo Black Barnefley, is diftant from London a hundred and feventy-five miles. It is well- built of ftone, and has a confiderable trade in fteel and iron ware. ShefHeld ftands upon the borders of Derbyfhire, at the diftance of a hundred and forty miles from London, and is the chief town of a diftrift called Hallamfliire, containing about fix hundred cutlers, incorporated by the ftyle of the Cutlers of Hallamfliire, who, it is computed, arnount to no lefs than forty thoufand men in the iron manufactures, particularly files and knives, for which this place has been famous during feveral hundred years. It is a large populous town, but the (Ireets are narrow, and the houfes black, occafioned by' the fmoke of the forges. Here is a church, which was built in the reign of Henry I. and upon a petition of the inhabitants to queen Mary, reprefenting that the parifli was too large and populous for the vicar to ferve it, without affift- ants. She incorporated twelve of the principal inhabi- tants, and their fucccffors for ever, by the flyle of the Twelve capital BurgelTes of Sheffield, impowering them to eledl three priefts to aflift the vicar ; and for that purpofe endowed them with certain lands and rents belonging to the crown. A chapel was built here lately, and confecrated by the name of St. Paul ; bc- fides which, there is a chapel at AttercliiFe, and another at Ecclefall, two hamlets in this parifli. Here is a free grammar-fchool, founded by king James I. and two charity-fchools, one for thirty boys, and the other for thirty girls. In 1673, an hofpital was eredled in this town, and endowed with two hundred pounds a-year, by Gilbert earl of Shrewfbury ; and another earl of Shrewfbury left two hundred pounds a-year for ever to the poor of the parifli. The lord uf the manor has a f rifon here, and holds a court every three weeks. At this place there is a fine (lone bridge over the Don ; and in the neighbour- hood are fome mir.es of alum, Gifborn is fituatcd on the borders of Lancaftiire, at the didance of a hundred and eighty-nine miles from London, and contains nothing worthy of note. Settle Hands in the road from York to Lancafler, at the diftance of two hundred miles from London, and is a handfome little town. About half a mile hciice, at a village called Giglefwick, is a fpring, which frequently ebbs and flows three times in an hour, wiica the water finks and rifes two foot. D R N [EUROPJ Hotherfield, or HutherfielJ, flands at the diflance of a hundred and fixty-five miles from London, upon the bank of the river Calder, and is famous for a manu- fadiure of woollen cloth. At Almonbury, near this place, are the ruins of a Roman work, confifting of fome rem! fy» near this confiding of parts, with a cd to be the utherfield, ij tlaw, Robin I. with the England.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. isi CHAP. XIII. , 1247. :afons, water o a conflder- f the country Q be the forc- lic calamity, uppofed that averni of the It towards the ot being large vater,the lat- e principle of nmerj fo wet corn hag fre- ; fo that the F famine, may inhabited by fome to have »t they came jain. Others Belgic word, Jen remarks, if a refolute, id. Brigand am this cha- : of the Bri- ror Conftan- 1 Caurianlls, lart, and the '■ heptarchy, : Northum- he province amenf, viz. rk, and two Mdborough, y, Headon, nond, Scar- CHAP. Lamajiire, H^'ejimirtlund, Cumbtrlaiul. LANCASHIRE is bounded on the eai^ by Yorklhire, on the fouth by Chcfhirc, on the weft by the Irilh fea, and on the north by parts of Cumberland and Weftmoreland. It extends in length from north to fouth fifty-feven miles, and in breadth thirty-two. The principal rivers of this county are the Merfey, the Ribblc, the Wine, and the Lon. The Merfey rifes in the mountains of Dcrbyfliire, and running fouth-weft, divides that county from Lancalhire ; after which, being joined by a conliderabic flrcani called the Gout, which parts Derbyfliire and Che- (hire, it continues its courfe along the borders of Lancalhire and CheOiire ; and receiving the Taume, the Irwell, the Bollen, and feveral other fmall rivers, it paflcs to Warrington, whence running weftward, it falls into the Irifli fea near Liverpool. In the year 1759, an a£t of parliament pafled, im- powering the duke of Bridgewater to make a canal from Salford, on the river Irwell, to a place called Hollen Ferry, navigable for boats and barges. The following year another a£l of parliament pafTed, en- abling the fame duke to extend the navigation by a like canal from Salford over the river Irwell, to the town of Mancheiler, and thence to Longford bridge. This canal being completed in the year 1762, the duke of Bridgewater obtained a third aft of parlia- ment, impowering him to extend the navigation from Longfordbridge, over the river Merfey intoChefliire, through the towns of Altrincham and Dunham- MaflTey, and thence weftward through lyme and Thelwell, all in .the county of Chefter, 10 a place called the Hempftones, below Warrington, where the canal joins with the river Merfey. liy this naviga- tion, the conveyance of cuals, Aone, timber, and other goods, to and from the trading towns of Man- cheiler and Liverpool, and the adjacent country, is greatly facilitated. The Ribble rifes in Yorkfhire, and running fouth- weR, enters this county at Clithero. In its courfe, this river is augmented by the great Calder, the Hodder, the Derwent, and the Savock ; and di- viding Lancalhire nearly into two equal parts, falls into the IriOi fea not far from Prefton. In its moutb, or xfluary, it receives a large river, formed by the conflux of the dreams Taud, Dowglcs, and Charnock. The Wire is formed by the Little Calder, the Broke, and other fmall ftreams, and running wedward, falls into the Iriih fea about twelve miles north of the mouth of the Ribble, The Lon rifes near Kirkby- Lonfdale, a market-town of Weftraorcland, whence running fouth. wed, and being augmented by fsveral flreams, it falls into the Irifh fea at a wide channel, which alfo receives the rivers Coker and Condor. The air of this county in general is more healthy than that of any other maritime county in England, except near the fens and fea-fhore, where fulphure- ous and faline effluvia, which, on the approach of No. 38. (dorms, are extremely fetid, produce fevers and a variety of chronic difeafcs. In the inland parts of the county tliere are alfo fome trafls, called by the in- habitants mofles, which are moid and unwholefome. The foil of this county on the weft fide generally yields great crops of wheat and barley ; and though the hilly tracts on the ead fide are for the moft part ftony and barren, yet the bottoms of thofe hills af- ford excellent oats. In fome places the land bears very good hemp, and the pafture is fo rich, thatoxeii and cows are of a larger fi«e here than in any other county in England. Here are mines of lead, iron, copper, antimony, black lead, and lapis calaminaris ; belides quarries of done for building. Here is like- wife great plenty of coal, and a particular kind called cannil or candtt ttal, which is chiefly found in the manor of Haigh, near Wigan. This coal will not only make a much clearer lire than pit-coal, but will bear a good polifl), and when polilhed, looks like black marble ; fo that candlefticks, cups, fnuff-boxes, and other toys, are made of it. In fome of the coal pits are found alum, brimdone, and green vitriol. The mofles or morades of this county are gene- rally didinguiOied into three kinds, the white, the grey, and the black, all which, being drained, bear good corn. They alfo yield turf for fuel, and marie to manure the ground. This county abounds with great variety of fifli, both of the fea and frefli water. Among the former, mufcles are fo numerous, that the hufl)andmen near' the fea-coad manure their ground with them. The river Wine is famous for a largt fort of mufcle, called Hamblecon hookings, becaufe they are dragged from their beds with hooks. In thofe mufcles pearls of a confiderable fize are very often found. There are alfo feveral lakes in this county, that abound with fidi, particularly Kennington meer, which has very fine charrs and other fifti. Lancafliire was made a county palatine by Ed- ward Hi. in favour of his fon John of Gaunt. It has a court which fits in the Duchy Chamber at Weftminfter, for the revenues of the Duchy of Lan- cafter ; befides a chancery court at Prefton. The feal of the county palatine is different from that of the duchy ; for there are lands in the latter that are not comprehended in the former. This county lies in the province of York and diocefe of Chefter, and contains fixty pariflies, which being much larger than thofe of any other county of England, are very populous. Here is a great number of chapelt, feveral of which are as large as parifli-churches. Lancafliire is divided into fix hundreds, and hw no city \ but contains twenty-feveri market-towns. Thofe are Blackburn, Bolton, Burnley, Bury, Cart- mel, Charley, Clithero, Colne, Dolton, Ecclefton, Garftang, Hafliagdon, Hawkefliead, Hornby, Kirk- ham, Lancader, Liverpool, Mancheder, Newton, Ormflcirk, Poulton, Prefcot, Prefton, Rochdale, Ulverfton, Wappington, and Wigan. Mancheder is fituated near the conflux of the rivers Irk and Irwell, about three miles from the Merfey, and i y a hund;«d 458 H B M R N [Europe. a hundred and fixty-iive miles from London. Thii is reckoned the lined inarliet-town in England ; and its kabitantt, including thofe of the fuburbs, are com- puted at fifty thoufand. Here are an exchange, a fpacious market-place, and two churches,, viz. St. Mary's, and St, Anne's. St. Mary's is a collegiate church, built in 1422, and is a beautiful and ftatciy edifice, with a chair remark- able for its curious carved work. The three moft confiderable foundations here are, u college, an hof- pital, and a free-fchool, befides three charity-fchoolt, two of which are for forty boys each. Here is a (Irong old ftone bridge over the IrwelU which is built ex- ceeding high, becaufe as the river comes from the mountainous part of the county, itfometimes rifes four or five yards in one night. For three miles above the town there are no lefs than fixty mills upon this river. The fullian manufaflure, called Manchefter cot- tons, for which this place has been famous fince the beginning of the laft century, has been much im- proved of late by (bme inventions of dying and print- ing, which, with the great variety of other manufac- tures, fuch as ticking, tapes, filleting, and linen cloth, employs a great number of hands,, and renders the place extremely flouriftiing. Manchefter was a Roman fortrefsr called Mancu- nium ; and there are ftill many monuments of anti- quity to be feen in and about the town. In a neigh- bouring park, at the confluence of the Meldock and Irwell, are the veftiges of an old fquare fort, called Mancaftle. From the name, fome have fuppofed this to be the ancient Mancunium ; but the compafs of it being too fmall for a town, it was more probably a Roman ftation, Manchefter had formerly the privilege of a fan£lu- ary, which, by an adl of parliament in the reign of Henry VIII. was transferred to Chefter., Warrington is diftant from London a hundred and eighty-two miles, and is a large, old built, but neat town, both populous and rich. Here is a fine flone bridge over the Merfey, ^nd a charity-fchool well endowed. This town is full of gjod tradefmen j and in its neighbourhood is a flouriftiing linen manufac- ture, called huckaback> of whicii, it is faid, five hundred pounds worth, or more, is fold at a weekly market, kept here for that puipofe. The market for provifions is fupplied with great plenty of all forts of fifli, fleft], corn, and cattle, and the malt here is remarkably good. Winwich, not far north of Warrington, is thought to have been the Cairguntin of the ancient Britons, and appears to have been the favourite rcfidence of Ofwald, king of Northumberland, by the following lines in old barbarous chara£iers, in the church of this place. Hie locus, Ofwalde, quondam placult lii! valde, Northanhumbrorum fueras rex., nuncque Polorunt Regno tenes, loco paffus Marcildc vocato, Rochdale ftands at the diftance of two hundred and five miles from London, on a fmall river called the Roch, that falls into the Irwell, The valley in which 7 the town is fituated, lies at the bottom of a ridge ol hills, called Blackftone-edge, fo high that they are fometimes covered with fnow in the month of Au- guft. This town is confiderably large and populous, and is of late v.'ry much improved in the woollen manufaiSlure. Newton U diftant from London a hundred and eighty-fcven miles, and is a borough by prefcription. It once had a market, which is now difufed, and is at prcfent diftinguiftied only for a chariiy-fcho'.l well endowed, Liverpool, or Leverpooi, is fituated on a bay of the Irifti chinnel, a hundred and eighty- three miles from London, It is a large well-built populous town, containing three handfome pariOi-churches, with fe- veral meeting-houfcs. One of thofe churches, which has been lately built, is reckoned amongft the fineft in England, The ftreets are fpacious, and there is a handfome town-houfe, crefled upon twelve {tone pillars. The free-fchool is likewife a large beautiful ilru£lure, and had formerly been a chapel. Here is a charity-fchool for fifty boys and twelve girls, with feveral alms-houfes for failurs widows, and a worlc- houfe for employing the poor. Though this town be not of great antiquity, it is now the moft flouriftiing in thofe parts, and is a rival even to Briftol, the fecond port in England. Within the laft fixty years its cuftoms are increafed upwards of ten fold. Moft of the inhabitants are merchants, and trade to all foreign parts, except Turkey, Green- land, and the Eaft Indies. It fliares with Briftol the trade of Ireland and Wales. As that city trades chiefly to the fouth and weft parts of Ireland, this town has all the traffic on the eaft and north fhores ; and >s Briftol maintains a commercial intercourfe with the fouth-weft counties of England, Liverpool enjoys that of all the northern counties ; befides its trade to Chcfliire and Staffbrdfllire, by the navigation of the Merfey, the Weaver, and the Dan. The merchants of Liverpool are alfo concerned with thofe of London- derry in the fifticry on the north coaft of Ireland ; and Liverpool is the moft convenient and moft frequented pafiage from London to that kingdom. The breadth of the Merfey, at high water, is here upwards of twelve hundred yards, and the ri <:' ia crofted by a ferry ; bnt when the boat comes to the fide of the town, the paflengers are brought to fliore on the ftioulders of men, who wade horfe deep in the water for that purpofe. Ships of any burden may come up with their full loading, and ride before the town, which is quite open and unfortified ; but the harbour is defended by a caftle founded by king John, and on the weft by a ftrong tower. At the weft end of the town is a wet dock, with Iron flood-gates, that will contain eighty or a hundred fail of ftiips, A pier runs along the north and fouth fides of the harbour; and the cuftom-houfe, which joins to the dock, is not only a commodious, but an elegant ftrudiure. Liverpool is fupplied with water brought in pipes, from fprings about four miles from the town ; and in the neighbourhood are frequent horfe- races, on a courfe England.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. m^ of five miles, the fined for the length of any in England. Ornnfkirk Aands at the diftancc of a hundred and ninety miles from London, and is a handfome town, with a good inland trade. Wigan, or Wiggin, is pleafantly fituated near the fource of the Dowgles, a hundred and ninety-five miles from London, in the pofl road (o Lancader, It is a well-built town, and has a handfome church, the lE&or of which is lord of the manor. This place is famous for the manufafture of coverlets, rugs, blankets, and other kinds of bedding, as well as for its pit-coa4 and iron work. Bolton is diftant from London two hundred and thirty- feven miles. It is remarkable for its mineral water, and for being the (laple of various kinds of cotton cloths, culled fuftians, cfpecially the Augf- burg and Milan fultians, which are brought to its market and fairs from different parts of the country. Bury Hands upon the river Irwell, at the diftance of a hundred and eighty-three miles from London. It carries on a confiderable trade in the fuflian manufac- ture, and the coarfe goods called halfthicks and kerfeys. Charley ftands at the diftance of a hundred and fifty- four miles from London, and is a little obfcurc town, Prefton, or Prieft-town, was fo called from its having been inhabited by a great number of religious. It is fituated on a delightful eminence on the banks of the Ribblc, at the diftancc of two hundred and eleven miles from London. This is a large hand- fome town, and being the refidence of many genteel families, is a gay place. Here is a flone bridge over the Ribble, with a charity-fchool for twenty-eight boys, and another for as many girls. The market of this town is one of the moft confiderable north of Trent, for corn, fowl, and all forts of provifions; and on the neighbouring common there are frequent horfe-races. Blackburn, or Blackbourn, is fo named from its fituation upon the bank of the Bourn, or river Dar- wen, Which is remarkable for the blacknefs of its waters. This town ftands at the diftance of a hundred and fifty-four miles from London, and has nothing particular to diftinguifh it, Haflingendon is fituated at the bottom of a moun- tainous tra nant of Britain kept a company in garrifon, called the Longovici. Several utenfils employed in facri- fice, and a variety of Roman coins, have been dug up here ; and near the church, on the fteepeft fide of the hill, hangs a piece of an old Roman wall, novr called Wery-wall. The ancient town was not ex- a£lly on the fame fpot where Lancafter now ftands } for the old Longovicum, in the year 1322, being de> ftroyed by the Scots, the town was built more clofe to the river. Hornby ftands on the river Lon, at the diftance of about two hundred and thirty miles from London } but contains nothing worthy of note, except the re- mains of an ancient caftle, beautifully fituated on a hill, round the bottom of which runs a river called the Winning. Cattmel is fituated among the hills called Cartmel Fells, at the diftancc of a hundred and ninety-two miles from London. It has a good church, built in the form of a cathedral, a convenient market-place for corn, fheep, and fifl], and a harbour for boats. This town lying between two bays of the fea, one formed by the seftuary of the river Ken, from Weftmoreland, and the other by the conflux of feveral fmall rivers from Weftmoreland and Cum- berland, into the Irift) fea, there are near it three fands, named Ken Sand, Dudden Sand, and Leven Sand, from the rivers to which they are contiguous. Thof; fands are very dangerous to travellers, who take this :ourfe for the more fpeedy accomplilhment of their j'..urney ; not only on account of the uncer- tainty of the tides, which arc quicker or flower ac< cording as the winds blow more or lefs from the fe», but of many quickfands, chiefly occafioned by rainy weather. 4^0 H M. D R ]Sf [EuRopi; weither. A guide on horfeback is therefjre app6inted to each Sand, at the charge of government, for the dircAion of fuch perfons as may pafs this way. Dolton (lands at the diftance of two hundred flhiles from London, and contains nothing remarkable. Ulverftone is fituated on the weft fide of the large bay that runs up this county, two hundred and thirty- nine milM from London, and has likewife nothing worthy of notice. HawkeAead (lands at the diftance of two hundred and fifty-fix miles from London, on the weft fide of Minander meer, in a woody promontory, called Fur- ncfi. Here is a free grammar-fchool, with a good narket for provifions and other commodities. In the promontory of Furnefs anciently flood the royal abbey of St. Mary, the ruins of ^hich are yet vifible. At its foulhern extremity lies a long ifland, called the Ifle of Welney, formed by a fmall arm of the fea. This iffand was formerly defended by a caftle, named the Peele, or Pile Caftle, and fonietimes the Pile of Fouldrcy ; the (hell of which is yet (land- ing upon a rock near the fouth-end of the ifland. Except the promontory of Furnefs, which was poflefled by the Setuntii, Lancafkire, in the time of the Romans, was part of the large tra£l inhabited by the Brigantes ; and under the Saxon heptarchy, was included in the kingdom of Northumberland. Not long after the Roman Conqueft, it obtained the pri- vileges of • county palatine. Ribchefter, or Ribblechefter, in this county, was a large Roman town, generally fuppofed to have been the Coccium, or Goccium, of Antoninus, and the ' Rigodunum or Ribodunum of others. From its ruins, and the many remains of antiquity, it appears to have been once a place of great fplendor. There are (lill Tifible traces of Roman military ways leading to it, one from the north, another from the north-eaft, and a third from the mouth of the Ribble, through Pref- lon. Pieces of military engines and weapons, and a variety of coins, (Vatues, columns, altars, &c, have been frequently difcovered here. A remarkable piece of antiquity in thit neighbour- hood is an ancient fortification, which, becaufe an- chors, nails, rings, and other parts of vefTeh have been often dug up near it, has received the name of Anchor-Hill. This hill lying a confiderable diftance from the fea, is fuppofed to have been a rampart of the fortrefs of Coccium. The broad and deep fofle under it that leads towards the river, probably ferved as a canal for the boats that were employed in the IVrvice of the garrifon. In this hill have been often dug up Roman patera, or bowls, formed of a fubftance refembling China, and adorned with flowers and other figures. Near Anchor-Hill was alfo difcovered a common fewer, and a floor laid with Roman tiles. Not many years ago, in draining Morton -lake, which was feveral miles in circumference, and fituated on the fouth fide of the mouth of the Ribble, were found funk at the bottom of it eighty canoes, refem- bling thofe ufed by the Indians in America, in which. it is fuppofed, the ancient Britons A'Cre wont to fifti upon this lake. The principal manufa£lures of tliis county are wool- len cloth, cotton, and tickens. It fends Tourteen members to parliament ; two for the county, and two for each of the boroughs of Lancafter, Prefton, New- ton, Wigan, Clithero, and Liverpool, WESTMORELAND. Weftmoreland is bounded on the fouth by Lanca« (hire, on the weft and north-weft, by Cumberland, on the north-eaft by the bilhoprick of Durham, and on the eaft by Yorkfhire. It extends in length from north to fouth thirty miles, and in breadth twenty- four miles. This county is well-watered with feveral riven, and fome lakes or large bodies of water, generally called Meers in the north of England, The princi- pal rivers are the Eden, the Eimot, the Loder, the Can, and the Lon, The Eden rifes at Mcrvcl-Hill, near Afkrig in Yorkfliire, where running north-weft acrofs the counties of Weftmoreland and Cumberland, upwards of thirty miles, and being joinea by feveral other rivers, it turns dire£lly weft, and pairing by the fny of Carlifle, fath into that part of the Irifh fea called the Solway Frith, The Eimot ilT^es from a lake called Ullefwater, upon the borders of Cumber- land, a few miles fouth of Penrith. This lake is fupplied by fix fmall ftreams, four of which are dif- tinguilhed by the names of Glenhorn river, Glenk- widen river, Glenkriden river, and Hawfwater ; but the other two have no names. From Ullefwater the Eimot runs north by Penrith, and falls into the Eden, about two or three miles north of that town. The Loder iflues from a lake called Broadwater, fouth-eaft of Ullefwater, and running north, falls into the Ei- mot, near Penrith. The river Can, Ken, or Kent, derives its origin and name from a lake called Kent- meer, near Amblefide, and running fouth-eaft, pafifes by Kendal, where forming an angle, it runs fouth- weft, and falls into the Irifh fea a few miles weft of Burton. The Lon has been defcribed in the account of Lancafliire. Other lefs confiderable rivers of Weftmoreland are the Winfter, the Lavennst-Ueck, the Swindale-Bcck, and the Blackern-Beck. The principal lake in this county, and indeed the greateft in England, is Winandcr-meer. It lies fouth of Ambl'^fide, upon the boruers of Cumberland, is tea miles in length from north to fouth, and two miles in breadth. The wa:er is very clear : there are in It fevenil ill^inds ; and the bottom, which is one continued rock, is faid to be in fome places very deep. The air of Weftmoreland is pleaf-^nt and healthy, but in the mountainous parts fhat,< ai.d piercing. The county eonfifts of tvf.-> divilions, namely, the Barony of Weftmoreland, 'bmetimes called the Bot- tom, and the Barony of Kendal, The former, which comprehends ^1^' ■Hi?*? 4' .«.' >t -# *.(■•*'■ ' } /t . /' ' ' ' /' ' /* / ' ' " ' ' rr/>{"f r/ifffht^/'Vfit u'ini //it'/ i'f/t'ii/io^'^ li'At ////i i/ri/VJ/// /it//r/<;n ///i\///) // iv/zr// />'/■/// ' ' ' /. ' ////////■ ///If /f^/j /Ho . . \ I i ■«•*» *, Ekgland.] General traveller. 4^1 comprehends i'-p north part of the county, is an open chanipain ira£t, twenty milei long and fourteen broad, confiding of arable land, and producing great plenty of corn and grafs. The Barony of Kendal, compre- hending the fuuth part of the county, it very moun- tainous i but the vallies are fruitful, and even the muuntains yield pafture for fheep and cattle. Here are fevcral foreftj and parks, and both baronies afford plenty of wood. The wcftern mouht?.ins of tht'i county are fuppofed to contain vad quautities of copper ore, and Tome vein) of gold ; but p: ine expence of winning the ores, on account r,f then depth, and fume other in- conveniences, would render the labour unprofitable, the mines are not worked. In the mountains towards the north-ead part of the county is a remarkable phenomenon, called a Helm wind. A rolling cloud hovers over the moun- tain-tops, fometimcs for three or four clays together, while the i..y is clear in other parts. It is not dif- (ipated, but retains its ftation, againfl the force of the ftrongeft huriicanr, which terminating fuddenly in a profound calm, frequently returns with great violence, and often for feveral times. This temped fcldom extends into the country above a mile or two from the bottom of the mountain. A phenomenon of the fame kind i.s obferved about Ingleton itid other places bordering upon the mountain! of Ingleborow, Hcndle, and Penigcnt, in the conHnei of the coun- ties of York and Lancaftcr, Weftmord.ind is wc'l fupplicd with fifh ; ahd the char, a delicate fort of trout, is peculiar to the river Eden, Winander-meer, and Ullefwatcr, Each of the baronies abovemcntioncd is fubdvided into 'wo wards, and each ward into conftablewicks. VVcftmoreland never was divided into hundreds, rapes, or wapentakes, like other counties j on accoiijitj as is fuppufcd, that the inhabitants anciently patd no fubfidics, having been thought fufficiently encumbered with the border fervicc againft the Scots, This Coun- ty lies in the province of York: that part of it, called the Barony of Wednioreland, is comprehended io the diocefe of Carlide j and the other ji.irt, called the IJ.iroiiy of Kendal, in the diocefe of Cheflcr ; both baronies containing thirty-two pariflies. Weftmore- land has no city, but contains eight market-towns, which are Amblefide, Appleby, Brough, Burton, Kendal, Kii kliy, Lonfdale, Kirkby, Steven, and Orton. Eurton (lands an the borders of Lancafhire, at the (iiflancc of two hundred and forty-four miles from London, but contains nothing remarkable, Kirkby Lonfdjlc is diflant from London t'vo hun- drt'd and thirty-two miles. It is a town of confi- derabu cNti'iil, iind lias a liandfume church, with a good lloiiabrjdge over the Loii, and a manufnfiure of woollen-cloth. Here was anciently an hofpilal of trpers, ikdicatcd to St. Leonard, Kendal, or Candale, is fo natpcd from its fituation in the dale or valley of the licff Can l< is alfo called Kiikby-Kendal, or CandaK, Itaitt ill cliut'lf nt kirk. This town is ih« Uiudl in the county, and it dinanl liiHit LuiiduM two liuMd|k)| nod fifty- ftven No. 39. miles. It confifts chiefly of two good flreeti, anil has- a large beautiful church, with twelve chapelt of cafe. Near the church ii a free-fchool, well endov/ed with exhibitions for fome fcholars to Queen's cnlrge in Oxford ; and there is alfo a charity- fchool for fix^ teen boys and ten girls, who are all cloatlied and taught. Here are two bridges over the river Can^ one of ftone, and the other of wood. This town is famoua for the manufadlu/e of cot« tons, druggets, ferges, bats, and worfted and yarn- dockings ; and it has enjoyed a confiderable trade ia the woollen manufacture ever fince the reign of Ed- ward III. At Water-Croble, near Kendal, is a fquare Romin fort, the banks and ditches of which are dill vifible t and here have betn found Roman coins, altars, Mti other remains of antiquity. Some are of opinion that thit was the Roman ftation named Concangii, and others, that it wai tbe ancient Brovoniacum. At Levcns, fouth of Kendal, oa the bank of the river Ca.i,' 0*er which if a handfoaie ftone bridge, are to be feen ibe ruin* of an ancient round building. Which Is called Kirkhead^ and ii Aid to have been a temple dedicated to Diana, Amblefide if two hundred ihd fifty miles didant from London, and has a confiderable manufaiSlure of cloth. This place is fuppofed to have been the Am* boglana mentioned in the Notitia. Here are vafl ruina of an ancient chy, with fome remains of a fort, fix hundred and fixty foot in length, four hundred it\ breadth, and fecured by a ditch and rampart. That this was a work of the Romans, appears from a va- riety of circumdances, fuch as paved ways leading thither, and round ftoAes, like mill-dones, ufed by the Roman! for erefting large pillars. Here have alfo been found feveral fmall urns, glafs vials, with Roman coins, and medali of gold, filver, and copper. Orton if fituated two hundred and feventy-one miles from the capital, and contains nothing worthy of note. Near Sbsp, north-weft of this place, are fe- veral Itrgt ftonei, in the form of pyraBiidi, fome of which ate fourteen foot diaineter at the bafe, and nine foot high, They dand almoft in adired line, a mile in length, at equal didances from each other. It is fuppofed that they were defigned to perpetuate the memory of fome aiSlion which hidory has not re- corded. Appleby is pleafantly fituated on the bank of the river Eden, by which it is almod furrounded, at the didance of two hundred and feventy-dx miles from London. This, though neither the riched nor hand- fomed in Wedmoreland, is the county-town. It con- fids chiefly of one broad dreet, which runs with an eafy afcent from north to fouth ; at one end of which is an ancient cadle, fortified by the river, and by large trenches, where the river does not furround It. Here are two churches, a frec-fchool, and an hofpital, with a town-hall, wher* the alTizcs are held, a county-jail, a bridge over the river Eden, and the bed corn-market in thefe northern paits. Appleby vvi; the dation of theMauri Aureliani,a banl (/f foldiers Io called, in diibuijnt of their being fent hither 5^ by 4^ H MODERN [EUROPF. Engi by the cinpcrQr Aureliiin, At Crakciithorp, in the iicighbourhiioil, are fcvcral large camps, where have been found many remaini uf Roman and other anti- quities. Kirkby Steven, or Stephen's Church, lies two hun- dred and thirty niilis lioiii l.onduii, aiiJ has a free^ fchool, with a nianufadlurc ol yuin ftocltings. Near it are the ruins of a caflie, called Hartley caftle, which was built bcfotc the leign of Edward II. VVcftinorcland is one of thofc counties which, in the time of the Romans, were inh.ibitrd by the Brigantes ; and under the heptarchy it conftitutcd part of the kingdom of Northuniberhnd. In this county are ftill vifible the traces of two military Roman ways, on one of which have been difcovcred fcvcral relics of re- mote antiquity. It runs foi-h-eaft, fro : Cai'ifle in Cumberland, to Penrith, n. hicH : "es the river £imor, into Wcftmoicland r' ■ !■ jj the county nearly in the fame dirc£liun, thr«>(gh A(ir- by, enters Yorklliire at Rear-crofs, iiorth-t . i. i,u ^!)-under- Stanmnre. The other Ronian higl. load is c nly called the Maiden-way, and runs from Caer Vorrau, a Roman ftation, near the P'itU wall in Cumberland, to Kirkby-Thore, on the bank of the Eden, north- wefl' of Appleby. Kirkby-Thore (lands alfo upon the military way that lead:! from Carlifle } and adjoining to it, upon the fame caufeway, in the place where the Maiden-way terminate:, are the ruins of an ancient town, now called Whelp Caftle, and fuppofed to have been the Gallagum, or Gallatum of the Romans, Here Ro- man coins and urns have been frequently dug up, and a ttona with the following infcription : deo bella- TUCAIiRO MB VOTU M, FECIT JOLUS. At Crawdundale-Waith, near Whelp- Caftle, are fe- veral works, fuppofed to have been thrown up by the Romans ; and upon a rough rock were found two impcrfeft infcriptions, one above the other. The firft is read as follows : Vamnius Praftiiui leghnh v'ucfimte Valinlit Viilricis ; and the fecond, Aelius Lu- canus Praftiiui legioms fecundts jtugujia Caftramatati junt. Thefu infcriptions are very different as to the form of the letters j and therefore a confidcrable time is fuppofed to have intervened between the two inci- dents that gave occafion to them. \J\ion thef.ime rock was found a third infcription, intimating that the fc cond Auguftan legion encamped at this place, ijrougham, upon the military way to Carlifle, where that wr.y crolTes the river Eimot, was the Brovonia cum, or Brovocum of the Romans, where the com pony of the Dcfenforcs was ftationed. Here have been found fuveial coins, altars, and other antiquitie.s that tcflify its ancient fplendor. Brough- under- Stanmore, which is alfo fituatcd upon the military way to Carlifle, was the Vortera of the Romans, where a prefect was ilationcd with a band of the Dircdlores. Other antiquities, fituatcd on this caufeway, before it enters Yorkfhire, arc the rt.ns of a noble round tower, at Cowplandbeckbrig, near Brough- under- Stan- more ; fome ancient tumuli at Brough-F'airhill ; the reiuaint of a fquare fort at Maiden Cafile, not iai froin Urough i and a large camp at Rear-Crofs, upon the borders of Yorkfliire. Oppoftte to Penrith, on the other fide of the Li- moi, and near the conflux of the Eimot and Ludcr, is a large round intrenchment, inclofing a level area. It has two pafTages oppoftte to each other, and is called King Arthur's Round Table. The trenches being on the ii.f^r^c, it is conjectured not to have been defigned for a place of ftrength, but rather a fort of amphi- theatre for jufts and tournaments. At a little diflance is a ftone fort, in the form of a horfe-flioe, opening to- wards the table, and called by fome king Arthur's Caftle, It is alfo called Maybu'gh, or Maybrough, a name which ill the Saxon language is faid to fignify a fart of union «r alliance, and is fuppofed to have been de- rived from a peace concluded here in the year 926, between A'.thclftnn, king of England, Conftantine, king of Scotland, Hacval, king of Wales, and other princes. The chief manufaflures t!f Weftmoreland are ftock- ings and woollen-cloth. It fends to parliament four members, two of whom are fur tlv county, and two for the borough of Appleby. CUMBERLAND. Cumberland is bounded on the eaft by Weftmore- land, Durham, and Northumberland, on the fouth by Lancafhire and the Irifh fea, on the weft by the fame fea, and on the north by part of Scotland. It extends in length from fouth to north fifty-five miles, and in breadth thirty-eight. This county abounds with rivers, and large bodies of water, which the inhabitants call meets. Of the foimer, the principal is the Derwent. It rifcs in Bor- rcdale, a large valley fouth of Refwick, and running along the hills, called Dcrwent-Fells, forms a large lake, containing three fmall ifl.inds, whence it runs through the middle of the county, and pafling by Cockermouth, falls into the Irifh fea near Working- ton, The Eden, another confiderable river, rifes at Marvel Hill, near Aflcrig, in Yorkfliire, and run- ning north-weft, acrofs the counties of Weftmore- land and Cumberland, falls into that part of the Irifh fea called Solvvay-Frith. Bcfides thofe two rivers, here are alfo the Eln, the Kflt, the Levcn, the Irthing, the South Tync, and t'cviral other lefs confldcrahle rivers and brooks, which fupply the inhabitants with plenty of fi(h, i This county being fheltered by lofty mountains on the north, the air, though cold, is confcquently' lefs piercing than mi^ht be cxpefled. The face of the county is plcafantly divcrfificd with lofty hills, valleys, and water j but wood is defeiflive. In general, the ! foil is fruitful, producing corn in great abundance, I and the inuiintains yielding pafture to numerous flocks of fliccp. The Derwent afi^ords falnion in great plenty, as the Eden docs char, a fmall kind of trout not found in any waters of England, except this river, Winandcrmcer, and Ullcfwater. Several mountains here contain metals and minerals i and in England.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 463 )f the Ei. Loiicr, ij I area. It "1 is called 's being un 'n derigncd of amphi- le diftance a name lily a fart been dc- ye»r 926, "iftantine, and other in the Touth part of the county, which is called Copeland, the mountains abound with rich veins of copper, as they do alfo at Derwent-FelU, par- ticularly at Newland, a village near Kefwiclc, where it is faid, there was once found a mixture of gold and filvcr. In this county are likewife mines of coal, lead, lapis calaminaris, and black lead, called by the inhabitants wadd. Cumberland lies in the province of York, partly in the dioccrc of Chcfter, and partly in that of Car- lifle, and contains, according to fome computations, fifty-eight pariftics, but according to others, ninety. It is divided into five parts, called wards, and in- cludes one city, with eleven market towns. The city is Carlifle, and the market-towns are Brampton, Cockermouth, Egermont, Jerby, Kefwick, Kirk. Of- wald, Longtown, Penrith, Ravenglafs, Whitehaven, and Wigton. The city of Carlifle is diftant from London three hundred and one miles, and is fituated near the con- fluence of three rivers, two of which are confiderable, the Eden on the north, over which it has a bridge, the Petcrhill on the eaft, and the Cauda, a fmaller flream on the weft. It is an epifcopal fee, and is firongly fortified, being furrounded by a wall, which is about a mile in compafs, and broad enough on the top for three men to walk abreaft. It has alfoacaille, in which a garrifon is kept. In this wall are three gates ; the Caldre, or [rilh gate, on the fouth : the Richard, or the Scotch gate, on the north ; and the Bother, or Englifli gate, on the weft. The houfes in general are well-built ; and here is a cathedral, with two parifh-churches, St. Cuthbert's and St. Mary's. The cathedral ftands in the middle of the city, and is cnclofed with a wall. The eaft, or upper part of this flru£ture, is a curious piece of workmanfliip, and, except the choir, was built in the reign of Henry VIII. At what time the weft, or lower part, was treSted, we are not told, hut it fufTered much during the civil war in 1641. This cathedral is a hundred and thirty-feven foot long, and feventy-one broad, and has a ftately window forty-eight foot high, and thirty broad, adorned with pillars of excellent work- manfliip. The roof is elegantly vaulted with wood, and embellifhed with the arms of France and England, befides of the Piercies, Luciar, Mowbrays, and many others. The tower is a hundred and twenty-three foot high. St. Mary's church has the peculiarity of being fitu- ated in the body of the cathedral, Carlifle i: a fea- port, and its principal manufa£lure is fuftian. This city was by the Romans called Lugubellium, Luguo..lia, or Lugucullum, and Carleolum j and from msny antiquities, it appears to have been a flourifliing city in the time of tliat people. We are informed by William of Malmft)ury, that in the reign of William II. a Roman tri''.linium, or dining-ruom, was difcovered in this place, built of ftone, and arched in fuch a manner, that it could not be deftroyed even by fire. On the front of it was this infcription: Marii VicTORi^x, or as Camden believes, Marti ViCTORl. A large altar of red ftone was dug up 6 here not long ago, with the following itifcription io fair characters : dko marti belatucadro. In a rock near Wetherell, a village upon the Eden, three miles eaft of Carlifle, have been dug fcveral dwellings, or hiding-places, confifting of two rooms, one within the other, each about fix yards fquare. Camden fuppofes them to have been places of refuge; but as there was formerly a little monaftcry at We- therell, belonging to the abbey of St. Mary, in York, Dr. Gibfon thinks it more probable that they were cells for hermits. Their difficulty of accefs, how- ever, favours the opinion of Camden, rather than that of his commentator. Ravengles is diftant from London two hundred and feventy-two miles, and is fituated between the Elk and a fmaller ftream called the Mute, not far from the river Irt. The £(k and Mute falling into the fea at this place forms a good harbour for (hips, and the inhabitants have a confider.-tbic filhery. Egremont is fituated on the bank of a little river named Broadwater, that falls into the fea near a promontory called St, Bees, about two miles fouth of Whitehaven, This t«wn i ' -nt from the capi- tal two hundred and eighty-(t, n 1;. , and has two bridges over the river Bro ' vater. had formerly a caftle, but at prefent l. -ii.j u.hing worthy of note, Kefwick ftands on tk: nor ' «: .: of the lake formed by theDerwcnt, at the diftan. of .ivo hundred and eighty-three miles fro> ' ondnn. It is fituated in a fruitful plain, almoft ... pafTed with mountains, called Derwent-Fells, againft whi h the vapours that rife from below are perpetually .ondenfed into water. It is flieltered from the north winds by a very lofty mountain called Skiddaw. This place has long been confiderable for the mines of black-lead ; and the miners, who ate its chief inhabitants, have water- works by the river Derwent, for melting the lead and fawing boards. North of Kefwick, ftands Skiddaw-hill, which, at a prodigious height, divides like Parnaflus into two heads, whence is a view of i>':rofFel-hill, in the fliire of Annandale, in Scotland, where the people prognofticate a change of weather, by the mifts that rife or fall upon the top of the mountain, according to the following diftich : " If Skiddaw have a cap, ScrofFel wots full well of that," , Whitehaven, thus called from the white cliffs which fhelter it from tempefts, is diftant from London, two hundred and fifty miles, and is a populous and rich town. Its trade confifts chiefly in furnifliing Ireland and part of Scotland with fait and coal j two hun- dred fail of colliers being often feen to go ofFatonce, for Dublin, in time of war, or after contrary winds. The harbour has been lately much improved : and as there is no navigable river falls into the fea at thii place, the Ihips take in their coals in the r^ad, which has alfo been rendered very commodious. If it hap- pens to overflov/, they run ino the haven with the flood, 4i it «^ H E M D E R N [F.t'Rorif. Hood, or fttnd twiy to St. Bees, where ihey have verjr found anchorage, and fafe riding, Morcfbjr, a fea-port town, near Whitehaven, is re- mukablc for many rcmaini of antiquity. 7 his place ii fuppefed to be the ancient Morbium, where the Equates Cataphrafiarii were quartered. From the ruins which remain, the adjacent ihores appear to have been fortified by the Romans in 111 places con- Tenient for landing. Many infcribed flones have been Ibund here j and in the lad century an aliar was dug up, with a little horned image of Silvanus. Here art alfo many vaults, fou' dations of ancient buildings, and caverns, called Piels Holes. Cockermouth, or Cockermoih, fo called from its fituation at the mouth of the Cocker, a fmall river which here falls into the Derwent, is diftant from London two hundred and /ixty-feven miles. It h fituated in a valley, between two hills, and is almoft furrounded by ihe rivers that meet near it i being alfo divided by the Cocker into two parts, which communicate with each other by good flune bridges. It confifts principal!/ of two ftreets, »hu houfcii of which arc well-built of ftone, and flated. It has a harbour for vefleli of confiderable burden, and had a caftle, now moftly in ruins, fituated on the hill wed of the Cocker. The walls of the caille are fix hun- dred yards in compafs, and on the gates are the arms of the Moltons, Humframvilles, Lucies, and Pcrcies. On the other hill, eaft of the Cocker, (lands thr church, which was anciently a chapel of eafe to Bridgeham, a village about a mile diAant j but is now parochial, and has two chapels of its own. In one divifion of the town is the guild, or moot-hall, where the corn-market is kept ; and in the other a market for cattle. About two miles from Cockermouth, on the other fide of the river Derwent, Hands Pap-Caftle, which appears by feveriil monuments to be a Roman anti- quity, though it alfo bears the marks of later ages. Here is a large open veflel of green ftone like a font, with feveral little images curioufly engraven on it, particularly that of a pricft dipping a child in water, which was the primitive mode of baptifm. An in- fcription in Runic charaflers, exprefles th?t Ekerd, a Dane of high r.ink, was baptized here, whofe ex- ample was followed by the reft of his countrymen. This ftono is at prefent ufed as a font in the neigh- bouring church of Bridkirk. Penrith, commonly called Perith, is diftant from London two hundred and eighty-two miles, and ftar.ds on a hill called Penrith-Fell, not far from the con flux of the rivers Eimot and Loder, The town is large, well-built, and populous, and hi.s a handfome fpacious church, with a charity -fchool for twenty boy°, and another for thirty girls. In the market- ^>iace ii a town-houfe of wood, about which is feme curved work, reprefenting bears climbing up a ragged ftafF; a device of the earls of Warwick, alluding to the exploits of fir Owen Cxfarius, by whom the bears that once infefted this country were deftroyed. Here are the remains of a Danifli chapel, and on the weft part of the town, the ruins of a royal caftle. This town carries on a very confiilerable trade in corn and cattle, and (huugh neither » borough iiur corpnriiion, yet (he county fcfliuns are fumctimet re- moved hither from Carlifle. Upon the banks of the little river Dacer, near its confluence with the Eimot, and on the fuuih fide of I'cnrith, is a caftle called Daccr-Caflle, which ap> pears to have been once a magnificent building. At a little diftanre from Penrith ate the ruins of a city, now called Old Pennth, and fuppufed to be the Petrianx, where the Ala Pciriana was quartered. Likewife near Penrith, on the bank of the Eden, half a mile beyond its confluence with the Eimot, is a grotto of two rooms, dug out of the lulid rock, and called Ifis Parllfk. I'he pafTige to this grotto is difficult and dangerous, and was formerly fccurej by iron gates, which were ftanding not many years ago. It was a place of great ftrength, and is thuught to have been ufed as an afylum in time of war, A little to the northward of Iris Parlifk, on the banks of the Eden, are two inconficlerable villages, called Salkeld, and Little Salkeld. , At the latter is a circle, formed of feventy-fevcn flones, each of which is ten foot high. Two of thcfe flones, ft.inding ac a greater diftance from each other than the refl, feejii to form an entrance, before which is a fingle flone, fifteen foot high. . This ftone the common people call Long Meg, and the reft her daughters. Within the circle are two heaps of ftones, under which it is ima- gined that dead bodies have been buried. This cir- cle is fuppofed to have been a monument of fome viiSlory, or of the inveftiture of fome Danifli king, Kirk-Ofwald is diftant from London two hundred and forty-eight miles, and is remarkable for a confi- derable caftle, built befo-'e the reign of king John. Jerby, called Market- Jerby, to diftinguifli it from another town, is fituated at the head of the river Eln, two hundred and ninety miles from London. Cam- den is of opinion that this place was the ancient Arbeia, where the Barcarii Tigrienfes were garrifoncd. Wigton is fituated in a forcft, called Allerdale, two hundred and eighty-eight miles from London, and contains nothing remarkable. Brampton is diftant from London two hun'lred and eighty-fcven miles, and ftands on the river Irth- ing, near its confluence with the Gelt, north-eaft of Carlifle. Here is an hofpital for fix poor men, and the fame number of women, founded by a countefj dowager of Carlifle. This place is thought to be the ancienr Brundluracum, when the firft cohort of the Tungri from Germany, and in the decline of the Roman empire, the Cuneus Armuturarum, under the governor of Britain, were quartered. Here is a high hill called the Mole, ditched round at the top, whence is an extenfive profpeiEl of the adjacent country. In this neighbourhood arc fever.il Roman muauments, with impcrfeiSl infcriptions. Near Nctherby, a little village on the Efk, north- weft of Brampton, are the remains of a confiderable city, fuppufcd to be the ancient A'^rlca, wheie the tribune of the firft cohort of the Aflures kep^arrifon. Below Burd-Ofwald (lands Williford, whence the p.as England.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. I'ROPK. ^ PiQ* Wall fittfcd the river Irthing by an arched brld|[e. At ihis place, which wis the Ration of the tirll ytlian cohort of the Daci, arc feveral altari crcdeU by that cohurt, and iiifcribcd to Jupiter Uptimuj Maxiiiius. Longiuwn !• diOant from the capital three hiin> dred and fixtecn miles. It (lands near the conflux of the Klk, and a fmjil river called the Kirhoop, on the borders of Scotland , being diflinguifhcd only by an hofpital, and a charity-fchool for lixty children. The ancient inhabitants of Cumberland called them- felvei Cunibri, or Kunibri, but were in common with thofe of Yotlifliire, Lancafhire, Durham, and VVell- moreland, called by Ptolemy the iJrigantci. In the time of the Romans, Cumberland wa) conllanily the rcfidence of feveral of their legions, which not only kept the inhabitants from revolting, and prevented the incutfiuni of the Scots, but greatly improved the country. Upon the declenfion of the Roman power in Britain, when this dillriiSl waa fubdued by the Saxoni, it became a part of the kingdom of Nor- thumberland i but from the time that the ftrength of that people was reduced by the Danes, till the year ^46, this county had petty king* of in own cboof- iug. About this period, however, Edmund, brother to king Athenian, having, with the afliftance of Le- ontine, king of South Wales, conquered the county, it was granted to Malcolm, king of Scotland, upon condition that he fliould defend the northern part of England againft all invaders ; and in virtue of this grant, the elded fons of the kings of Scotland were (lyled governors of Cumberland. The Saxons, fome- time afterwards, reduced it again under their govern^ ment ; but at the time of the Norman Conqueft it was fo much impoveriihed, that William remitted all its taxations, and for that reafon it is not rated in Doomfday Book, as other counties are. At Workington, a town on the coaft, where the Derwent and Cocker run in one channel to the fea, are the ruins of a wall, ftretching thence to the river £ln, about five miles northward, which fome think was built by the Roman general Stilico, to prevent the landing of the Scots from iitUnd. This opi- nion is founded on the following pall'age in Claudian : Af( quoque vicliiis pertuntem gentibus, inqu'tt, Munivit Stilicn., totam cum Scotiis Icrnam Movit, (Jf iitfejio fpumavit remigt Thetis, Elnborough, or Elenborough, a fmall village fitu- ated near the mouth of the Kin, was anciently called Volantcum, and was a Roman garrifon, the Aation of the firfl cohort of the Dalmatians. Near this place there was alfo a town called Olenacum, where the firft Herculean wing was garrifoned, in the reign of Theodofius the Younger. North of Elnborough, not far from an abbey called Holm-Abbey, or Holm-Cultrum, but nearer the fea, liands Wulfty, a fortrcfs faid to have been built by the abbots of Holm-Cultrum, for the fecurity of their books and charters againft the incurfions of the No, 39. Scots. Certain books of magic, fuppofed to havfl been written by Mich.iel Scot, anciently a monk of this houfe, arc faid lo have been kept here till they were mouldering into duft. Below the monadery the bay receives the little river Waver, inereafed by the Wiia, another rivulet, at the head of which appear the ruini of an ancient city, tailed by the neighbouring inhabitants Old Car- liflc, and thought to have been the Roman garrifon, tailed by Antoninus Calfra hxploratorum. The wing of the Roman army, namid Ala Augufta, and Alii Auguda (Jordiana, was quarttted here in the reign of Gordianus, as appears from feveral infcriptioni which have been found in and near this place. Bouluefs, or Bulnefs, near the weft end of the Pias wall, is the place at which Antoninus begins his Itiner.uy, being then the utmoft limits of Britain, as a Roman province. It was called by the Romans Blatum-Bulgium, and is now a fmall village, with a fort. Many vclliges of ftrcets and walls are of- ten difcovered in ploughing the adjacent grounds) and here has been found a great number of coins, infcrip- tions, and other antiquities. There are alfo fome remains of a cauAjway, which is faid to have been carried along the flioie from this place quite to Eln- borough. Drumbough Cadle, Hluated on the Pifls Wall, fix miles from Caflifle, was formerly a Roman fta- tion i and fume fuppofe this place, and not Old Carlifle, to have been the Caftra Exploratorum ; but the dirtances afligncd to the Callra Exploratorum from other places well known, do not coincide with this opinion. A little hence is a villagu called Burgh-upon-Sands, where the Romans had another ftation ; and king Edward I. on his march in his laft expedition ti^ Scotland, died at this place. On the fpot in his camp where he expired, which has always been dif- tinguifhed by fome great ftones rudely heaped upon it, has been lately creeled a fquarc pillar, nine yards and a half high, with infcriptions in large Roman letters. On the weft fide : " Mainoria atirna Eduardii Regis jinglitf longe clariffimi, qui in belli apparatu antra Scsloi occupatus, hie in ca/lriis eliiit, 7 Julii, A. D. 1307. On the fouth fide : Nobi- Ujftmus Princeps, Iltnricus Howard, dux Norfolcia, comes mare/hal, Angliof, comes Arund. (sfc- Ab Eduardi I. Rege Anglia ariundus P. 1685, On the north fide : hhannes Aglionby, I. C, F. C. i. e. luris confultus fieri fecit. Of the famous Pifls Wall, which runs aerofs this county, a defcription will be given in the next chapter. Cumberland ftnds to parliament fix members, viz, two for the county, two for the city of Carlifle, and two for Cockermouth, The town of Egremont for- merly fent likewife a reprefentative, till the inhabit- ants becoming unable, or unv/illing, to pay him the wages then ufual, petitioned the parliament that they might be exempt from that charge. I 6 A CHAP. 4« T H B MOD R N [EuxorE. CHAP. XIV. Durhtm, NtrihuminUiul, D U H M. Til I S couniy ii fomctimet called ihe Bifhoprick, ind romctimci t.e Counijr PiUtine of Durham, having ill former timei ^^n a kind of royalty, un- der (he jurifdiAion of a bilhop, fubordinate to the crown. It ii boundcj or. the weft by parti of Weft- moreland, Cumberland, and Northumberland ( on the north by the latter of thofe countiei t on the caft by the German ocean i and on the fouth by the river Tcei, which feparatei it fiom YorkUiire, In ihii county are Tixteen riven, th« chief of which are the Tees and the Were. The former rifei on the borderi of Cumberland, and running eaft. fouth-eaft, receives, bcfides feveral lefa conflderable flreams, the Laden, the Hude, the Lune, thi Bauder, and the Skern ( after which, direfling iticourfe north- caft, it falls into the German ocean. The Were is compofed of three fmall ftreams, called the Kcllop, the Wellop, and the Burdop, bourni riling near one another in the weft part of this coonty, and within three milti of the head of the Tees. The Were, thus formed, runs eaftward, and receives the Gaun- lefi, with feveral fmaller ftreams : it then, by many windings, direAs its courfe norih-eaft, and pafling by the city of Durham, falls into the German ocean at Sunderland. The air of this diftriA is healthy, and though fliarp in the weftern pattt, is yet mild and pleafant towards the fea. The foil is alfo diflFcrent, the weft- ern parts being mountainous and barren, but the reft of the county fruitful, and beautifully diverfified with meadows, paftures, corn-fields, and woods. It abounds with inexhauftible mines of lead and iron, and particularly coal, called Newcaftle coal, from the port where it is (hipped to fupply the city of London, and the greater part of England. The ri- vers abound with fifh, efpecially falmon, which, with the coal, includes the whole traffic of the county, it is computed that the ports of this county fupply the royal navy with more men than any other in l\.z kingdom. Durham lies in the province of York, and is a diocefe of ilfelf, containing fifty-two parifhes. It is divided, not into hundreds, but, like the county of Cumberland, into wards or wakes, of which it con- tains four i and has one city, with feven market- towns. The city is Durham ; and the market-towns are Aukland-Bifhop's, fiernard-Caftie, Darlington, Hartlepool, Marwood, Stockton, and Sunderland. The city of Durham is diftant from London two hundred and fifty-fix miles, zni is pleafantly fituated on a hill, almoft furrounded by the river Were. It is encompafled with a fortified wall, and ftretches about a mile in each dire£lion. It is an epifcopal fee; and the principal building i* the cathedral, which it dedicated to Chrift and the Virgin Mary, This it I a magniRcent pile, four hundred ind eleven fool long, and eighty broad, with thrc« fptciou* ailcs, one in Ihe middle, and on« at each end. That in the mid* die is a hundred and fcvenly foot longi the eaftern ailc is a hundred and thirty-two foot wide ( and the weftern a hundred fool. In tht litter there was a chapel of tht Virgin Mary, called Oalilee i the out- ride of it was adorned with two handfoma fpires, covered with lead, the lowers of which are yet ftand* ing. The eaftern ail* was formerly called the Nine Altars, from the number it contained of thofe parts. The middle ailr, which was dedicated to St. Cuth* bert, the patron of the church, was the moft be.iu- tiful I and near it was • rich (hrine of that faint. The building is ftrongly arched, and fupported by large pillars. At iho entrance to the choir ia a handfomc fcreen, a hundred and feventeen foot long, and thirty-three broad. Many of the windows are very curious, particularly the middle window, to the eaft, which is called the Catharine wheel, or St. Ca- tharine's window. It comprehends all the breadth of the choir, and is compofed of twenty four lighia. In the fouth end of the church was a window called St. Cuthbert's, on which was painted the hiftory of the life and miracles of that faint. On the north fide was a third window, on which was painted the hif- tory of Jofeph, by whofe name it was therefore dif- tinguifhed. The chapter-houfe, in which fixteen bi- fliops are interred, is a fpacious apartment, feveniy« five foot long, and thirty-three broad, wit'i an arched roof of ftone, and a beautiful feat at the upper end, for the inftalment of the bilbops. The decorationa of this church arc faid to be richer than thofe of any other in England, it having fulfered lefi by the ali. enation of its revenues than any other cathedral. Befides the cathedral, there are fix parifh-churches, three of which (land in the principal or middle part of the town, and the other theee in the fuburbi. South of the cathedral it the college, a quadran- gular pile of building, indofing a fpacious court. It confifts at prefent of houfes for the prebendariei ; and the greater part of it hat been either new built, or very much improved fince the Reftoration. Oppo- fite to the college-gate, upon the eafl fide, is the exchequer ; at the weft end was the Gucft-hall, for the entertainment of ftrangers ; and near it the gra- nary, and other offices of the cotivent. On the north fide of the cathedral, is the college-fchool, with a houfe for the mafter ; and between the church-yard, and what is called the caftle, or the bifliop's palace, is an area named the Palace-Green } at the weft end of which is the fhire-hall, where the affixes and feffiont are held for the county, and near it a fine library. On the eaft fide of the cathedral is an hofpital, with twofchools. North of the cathedral ftands the cadle, which afterwards became the bifltop's palace. It was built by William the Conqueror, and the outer gate of it is at prefent the county jail. The other public buildings in this city are the cuf- tom-houfe, the crofs, aad a conduit, with two ftone bridges over the river Were. Tht England.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 467 Tht elljr of Durham own iu origin (0 th« monki of Lindiifcrn, 1 montftary in • fniill illand fouih- n(i of Berwicli-upon-Twctd, who being with Ear- dulfui thrir bilhop, expelled their habitation by the Danei, retired fn<\ to Cheftcrin-the-Street, ■ fmall town north of Durham, about the year 883, carrying with them the rulei of their blftiop St. Cuthbert. In 995 ''"y "moved hither, and depofitcd the relici under a fmall oratory, which they erected of flicki afld twigi, wattled logeiher, I'hii oratory, Aldwin, the bilhop, who then iranirerred the epifcopal fee from Chofter-in-the-Street to Durham, afterwardi improved into a cathedral | but William de Careleph, who wai bilhup of Durham about the year io8j, pulled it down, and began a more ftately edifice, which wai fini(hed by hii fucceflbri. Darlington it fituaied upon the river Skern, at the diftance ol two hundred and forty-three miles from London, I'his it one of the four ward> towns in the county, and ronfilli of feveral ftreeti. It hat a fpacioui market-place, a handfome church, with a tall fpire, and a free-fchool. It ii one of the molt confldeiable placet in the North of England for the manufa£tut« of linen, particularly the fort called huckabacki, of which great quantities are fent to London and ^er parta. Other fine linen cloth it •Ifo made here ) and the water of the Skern ii in great reputation for bleaching. Stockton is fituated on th« river Tees, about two miles from its mouth, at the diftance of two hun- dred and twenty miles from London. It is a well- built town, and a place of great bufinefs. The river here is capable of bearing fliips of confiderable bur- den, but the current is often dangerous. I'his is a member of the port of Newcaftic, and carries on a very confiderable trade to London in lead, butter, and bacon, Hartlepool is diftant from London two hundred and thirty-fix miles, and flands on a promontory, en- compalTed by the fea on every fide but the welt. It depends chiefly on the filhing trade, and its harbour is much frequented by colliers paffing to and from Newcaftle. Bifliop's-Aukland was formerly called North-Auk- land, to diftinguifli it from another town in the county, and received its prefent name from a palace which belongs to the bifliops of this fee. It (tands near the conflux of the rivers Were and Gaunlefs, at the diftance a hundred and eighty- four miles from London, 1; is reckoned one of the bed towns in the county, and has a ftone bridge over the Were. Barnard Caftle derwes its name from Barnard Ba> liol, great grandfather to John Baliol, king of Scot- land, who erefled a caftle here, and alfo built the town. It ftands on the north fide of the river Tees, at the diftance of two hundred and fifty-three miles from London, and confifts chiefly of one handfome ftreet, with lanes branching from it. The manufac- tures of this town are ftockings, bridles, reins, and belts, and it is famous for the beft white bread in the county. At Winfton, a village upon the Tees, about four mil«i eaft of Barnard Cattle, art fetn the remains of a Roman hij[hway, MarwouJ ftands likewife upon the Ters, at the ilifttnce of two hundred and fifty five miles from I.un- ilon. It has nothing of note but a flocking niiiiu- (tAoty, and a park, which reaches to Rarnard-Cilllr, Sunderland ftands at the diftance of two hundred and fixty-ihree miles from London, and Is a fea- port. It is a well-built populous low",, with a very handfome church, and has a grr.it coal trade, from which it derives confiderable profit. I'he port, how- ever, is fo ftiallow, that the ftiips are obliged to take in their loading in the open road, which is fome- times very dangerous to the keclmen or lightermen that bring the coals from the fhore, The vefll-Ii, therefore, which load here, are generally fmaller than thofe in the neighbouring ports ) but as they ride in the open fea, they are ready to fail as foon at they get in their loading, which i> a confiderable advantage, by which means they have been known to fail from this port to London, and, after deliver- ing their coals, return hither, before the (hips at Shields, a confiderable pott at the mouth of the Tees, which had been loaded before them, were able to get over the bar. The bilhoprick of Durham was anciently ■• part of the country inhabited by the Brigantes j but upon the eftablifliment of the heptarchy, it became a part of the kingdom of Northumberland ; and was one of the counties which, being on the fouth fide of the Tyne, were called Deira, to diftinguifli them from the northern divifion of the kingdom of theNorthumbrians, known by the name of Bernicia. Soon after the Saxons were converted to Chriftianiiy, this county was given by their kings to St, Cuthbert, biftiop of Lindisfern, an ifland in the county of Northumber- land, now known by the name of Holy-Ifland, and to his fucceftbrs for ever. The Danes and Normans con- firmed this grant of the Saxon king!, and added fe- veral privileges to the church of St, Cuthbert. In the reign of William the Conqueror, a perfon named Welcher, a native of Lor/ain, being bifliop of Dur- ham, purchafed of the crown the earldom of North- umberland, and thence afTuming the authority of a fecular judge, fat in court, and determined all caufcs at his pleafure. This is fuppofed to have been the origin of the temporal power of the biftiops of Dur- ham ; and upon this purchafe it is fuppofed that the diftrifl was made a county palatine. The bifhops of Durham, as counts palatine, have borne on their feals a knight armed, on horfeback, brandiflting a fword with one hand, and with the other holding out the arms of the biflioprick. The common people, infifting on their privilet;;?, have refufed to march into Scotland in '-.me o,f wai, pre- tending that they were HalworkMen, that is, men bound to do nothing but holy works ; that they held their lands to defend the ! oc y' of St. Cuthbert, and that they were not obliged tr fetve without thi* limits of the dioceli;, either f< r ;he king or the bi- Qiop, King Edward I. abolished many oi the pri- vileges 468 H E M D R N [EuRopn li. leges of the fee, but fome of them were recovered by fucceeding bifliops. The bifliop of Durham had power to call a par- liament, and create barons. He was alfo vetted with the power of coining money, and impofing taxes : all courts were kept in his name ; and he had the appointment of all judges and juflices of the peace, with the unlimited prerogative of granting a pardon for any crime. He had feveral forefls, chaces, paries, and woods in the county, befides a grrat part of the palatinate, which was held of the fee in capite. The lands, goods, and chattels of all fuch as were convicted of trcafon, Tell to the biihop j and he flill claims all forfeitures upon outlawries and felonies. Such were the privileges of the bifhops of Dur- ham, before they were abridged by a flatute in the twenty-fevcntli year of Henry VIII. which in effe£l flripped them of their palatinate power, particularly that of creating judges, making out j>idicial writs and indi£lments, and granting pardons i but the bifhops, and their temporal chancellors, were ftill permitfd to z£i as jufticcs of the peace. In the reign of Edward VI. this bifhoprick was dilTulved, and all its revenues and immunities were by the parliament vcflcd in the crown ; but queen Mary repealing this aft, the fee was rcilored to the ftate in which it was left by Henry the Vlllth. As this diflriiSl was a kind of principality, diilinft from the reft of the kingdom, it never fent repre- fcntatives to parliament till the reign of Charles II. fince which time it has conftantly fent four members, viz. two for the county, and two for the city of Durham. NORTHUMBERLAND. Northumberland, as now circumfcribed, is bounded OP the fouth by Durham ; on the ibuth-weft by part of Cumberland ; on the well and north by Scotland, from which it is feparated by the river Tweed, the Cheviot-hills, and other mountains ; and on the eaft by the German ocean. It meafurcs from north to fouth about fifty miles, and from eaft to weft forty. This county is well watered with fine rivers, the chief of which are the two Tynes, the Tweed, and the Coquet. The fouth Tyne rifes near Al lion- moor, in the north-ead part of Cumberland, and running north-weft, to Fetherfton-Haugh, near Hclt- wefel, a market-town of this county, forms an angle at that place; whence dircfling its courie caftwaid, and being joined by two fmall riven, called the Eaft nnd Weft Alon, then joins the north Tyne near Hexham. The latter rifcs in a mountain called Tync- head, upon •^'•, borders of Scotland, and running fouth-eail, receives a fmall river called the Skdc ; after which, continuing in the fame dirciaion, it is joined by a confidcrablc ftrcim called the Read, not far from Ellcfdon, and uniting with the fouth Tyne, they flow in one full llrcain to the German ocean, 6 into which thry fall at Tinmouth, nine miles from Ncwcaftle. The Tweed rifes in Scotland, and running north- eaft, is joined by the BowbanC, the Bramifti, the Till, the Teviot, and other lefs confiderable ftreams: in its progrefs eaft ward it feparatcs England from Scotland, and falls into the German ocean at Berwick. The Coquet rifes upon the borders of Scotland, at a fmstll diftance north of the fpring of the Read . running eaftward, and being joined by feveral ftrearas, it palTes by Rothbury, and tails into the German ocean about fifteen miles eaft of that town. The air of this county is not fo cold as might be expeiSled from its northern fituation ; and the foil is different in different parts. On the feacoaft, the fand, if properly cultivated, yields great .ilft to weft a hundred and fe- venty paces, and in breadth a hundred and thirty. The fite of the pntorium at the eartern end is very diftinguifhablc, with two entrances throii",h the Val- lum, and a road leading down to ihe river. The ground within the Vallum is crouilcd with ruins of ftone buildings, which appear to have flood in ftreight lines, forming ftreets, two on the fouth iiJe and two on the north, interfered in the middle by a crofs ftreet from north to fouth. On the fouth tide with- out the Vallum and fofle, many ruins of buildings appear, and fome on the north. This place was the Silurnum of the Romans, where, as fome author* afiert, the firft cohort of the Vangiones was ftationed; but according to Mr. Horfley, ic was garrifoned by the fecond wing of the Afti. Below the Chcfters, the foundations oi . bridge are apparent at low water, fuppofed to be of Roman conftru£tion ; and it is faid that cramps of iron have been obferved in the work. The Roman ftation at Rutclicfter appcp.rs to havo been v;ry c.infiderable. On ihe north (ii. i e been ilx turrets, but the number on the ethers 'r^i. lot be determined. The ramparts, however, ai; .ia very vifible. Severus's w^il runs upoi: th* m'..ole uf the eaft rampart, but is not coatinue.-i :.\: ugh the fta- tion J and Hadrisn's wall paflies abo'. rhe diftance o. a chain to the ."ruth of it. Aco:). to Horfley, this place was the Vindobali ■ ' le ki :.wis, where the firft cchori: of the l'''■l■-'^■^. k;;pt gar ifo. . Ctni. den calls it Vindofan. j cm? by fome writers it ii faid to be the frontier ftation of the fcurth cohort of the H-Mils. j/Jl'.r. Ohefters is fituated on an eafy defcent, but 'ht liinpi cannot pcrfeclly be f^recJ. Hadrian'i Val!i( n A-.ms to have fallen in w.ili the iouth ram- part of this fcrt, and Sevjrus's wall wi.h the north line of the inner part. The ruins of the outbuild- ings are to the fcuth and fouth-eaft jf the fort. This is generally fu[>pofed to be the Hunnum of the Romans, though Camden places that ftation at Shew- ing Sheels. Not far from Halton Chefters is Ayden-Caftle, now greatly in decay. It ftand:, on the weft fide of a deep gill, on the brink of a precipice, at the bottom of which runs a liitle brook. From what remains of this edifice, it appeari to have been of con- fiderable extent and ftrcngth, encompadcd by a wall. Here is a flable with an arched roof of ftone, with, out any wood in its ftrudlure, even the mangers be- ing formed of ftone troughs. It feenis to have been intended for the prefervation of cattle at the lime of an adault. The precipice here is faid to have been famous for a lover's leap. Corbridge is fuppofed by Camden to be the Curia Othudinorum of the Romans, noted by Ptolemy, and [Europe. ition, or the nclined plain, is {lation alfo les, Ic m:a- idred and k. i and thirty. ) end is very ifjh the Val- river. The with ruins of lod in ftreight !iJe and two 2 by a crofs ilh tide with- of buildings ilace was the bme authori ras Rationed i arrifoned by ot .i bridge be of Romaik of iron have icnrs to have He 1 e been rs T^i. lot be ■e '.i:i very li-jle .jf the igh the fta- •.he didance to Horfley, jWMf whrjc fo.'. C.:ria • rritcrs it is [h cohort of defcent, but Hadriati's : touth ram- h the north le cutliuild- ; fort. This lum of the >n at Shew- 'den-Caftle, ic weft fide lice, at the From what lecn of con- I by a wall, ftone, vv'ith- nangcrs be- o have been the time of have been ^^^ M *-E»l 0:4^' lar ; the Curia y Ptolemy, and Wales.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 47J and the CorPopitum of Antoninus. Near tliis place, in i734i was found a piec; of Roman plate, now in the pofTcflion of the duke of Northumberland. It weighs a hundred and fort/.cight ounces, is twenty inches long, and fificeu broad. Mod of the work is in bafS' relief, with a flat bri n, an inch and a quar- ter broad, elegantly ornamei ted with flowers, &c. This curious piece of antiquity reprcfcnts the figure of Apollo, with the bow in his left hand, and a phyfical herb in his right, under a canopy fupportcd by two Corinthian pillars. Near his left leg is a "fyrt, under it an Hcli/irnpr, and at his feet a Python. Near the right-hand column is another, of a different form, with a fun for its capital ; againft which, on a tripod, fits a priellefs, who looks over her fhoulder at Apollo : under her feet is another, near which lies a ftag upon his back.— The figure next to the priellefs is that of another female, her head unveiled, holding in her left hand a fpear or wand, on the top of which is a ball. Near her is iMinerva, point- ing her right hand to a man (I'uppofed a hunter) on the other fido of a large tree. Her .icad is covered with a helmet ; on her bread is a Medufa's head } under her feet an altar, near which is a wolf, look- ing up to a man who has a bow in hi left, and an arrow iii iiis right hs: ^. Below him, at a cor- ner of the plate, is a rock, having in the midft of it an urn, from which flows a ftrcam. It is uncertain whether this piece of plate wac in- tended for facrcd ufes, or was a lanx, for the fer vice of the emperor's table on high feftivals, and expreflive of fome great atchicvcment to the glory of the Roman power. At a little diflancc from Corbridge, ftands Cor- chefter, once a Roman (lation, but which Teems to have been abandoned before the Notitia was drawn up, a; no mention is made of it in that work. This ftation is fituatcd on a tongue of land, formed by the flream of Cor, at its conflux with the Tyne, The Prsetorium is yet vifible, and at low water may be feen the remains of a bridge, fuppofed to be of Roman conftruilion. Dr. Todd, in the Philofo- phical Tranfailtions, fiippofes the name to have been originally HerccilcclKr ; to which opinion he wa^ led by an altar found here, with a Greek infcrip- tion, dedicated to the Tyrian Hercules. Rifinghain (lands upon VVatling-Strcet, and is fup- pofed to have been the Habitaneum of the Romans. Like the preceding, it is not mentioned in the Itinerary ; but from fome infcriptions and coins which have been four. J, there is leafon to think that it was a Roman ftation in the time of Aurelius An' ainus. It IS iituatcd on the bank of the Read, and contains within the Vallum three acres, three roods, and twenty-fix perches of land. Near this pl.ice is the remarkable effigy of Robin Rifingham, as it ii called by the country people. It is cut upon the face of a huge piece of rock, and both the iculpture and rtone are very coarfc. Mr. Horfley imagines it to be Roman work, and intended to rcprcfent the emperor Commodus ; but from the mode III which the hgure is habited, there is reafon No. 4.0. for fupponng it to h.ive been cut at a much later period. Elfden is a fmall town, fuppofed to have its date from the time of Marcus Aurelius Antoninus, in- fcribed to which emperor were found two Roman altars, in a mount called the Mote-Hill. This emi- nence is intrenched round, and the mote yet remains of a great depth. Totvards the north, which is the weakefl part, a bread-work is cafi up. Here have been difcovcrcd the bones of animals, apparently the remains of facrifiec, with urns, aflies of the dead, and broken infcriptions. On the banks of the Read are flill difccrnible the intrenehmcnts which were cart up at the battle of Otterburn j and many tumuli or li.irrows, fc.ittered over the adjoining ground, afford evidence of the flaughter which was then iviiide. ' Riechefter, anciently cillcil l'remoricum,wasertccmcd the ftrongeft ftation the Romans had in the north. It is fltuated on the biow of a flecp and rocky hill, commanding the pafs of Recdfd.ilc, and is defended by a wall of afhler-work, feveii foot thick, moats and treble rampicri, as out-works. Bcfidcs feveral Roman antiquities, here have lately been difcovered the remains of a hypocauf^, or warm bath, A little above Riechefter, near Bridhope-Crag, arc two large fquare entrenchments, with two openings on every fide, each defended by an outer mote, of an oblong form, at the diftancc of fix yards from the aperture. In the time of the Romans, Northumberland was inhabited by the Ottodini or Ottotini, and rhe Me- otae, the .:icr uf whom were the Britons that dwelt near the Ii, .. Wall, and who in that memorable revolt againd the Remans, in which the Caledonians were brought into the confederacy, firft took up arms. This county is not remarkable for any particular manufaiflure. It fends to parliament eight members, viz. two knights for the fliire, and two burgefles for «ach of the following towns ; namely, Newcaftle, Vforpeth, and Berwick-upon-Tweed; On the coaft of Northumberland, about fix miles fouth-eaft of Berwick, is fituated Holy Ifland, anci- ently called Landisfcrn. It is about five miles in cir- cumference, and contains an old fort, which is now in decay. This ifland was once a bifhop's fee, and part of the cathedral yet remains. It has a communica- tion with Northumberland at low water, and, during fummer, much company refort to it for fea- bathing. CHAP. XV. \X7ALES is bounded on the eaft by Monmouth- ' ' Ihire, Herefordfliire, Shropfhire and Chefhire ; and on all other fides by the fea. It is dillinguifhed into provinces, vis. the South "ind the North. South- Wales comprehends Glamorganlhire, Carmarthen- fhirc, Pembrokeftiire, Brecknockfhire, and Cardigan- (hire ; and North-Wales comprehends Montgomer- (hire, Merionethfhirc, Carnarvonlhirc, Denbyfliire, Flintfhire, and Anglcfy. 6 C G L A- m 47+ H MOD R N (KuKoi'r. GLAMORGANSHIRE. Gliniorganflrire n boiindeJ on the cad by Mon- mouththlre, on the fbuth by the liriflol-ChanncI, on the weft by Carmarthenfliire, *iiJ on the north by Breck- noikfliiro. It extenth in length, from eaft to weff, forty- eight miles, and from north to fbuth twenty-fcvtn. The principal riveri of this county are the Rhym- ny, the Taft', tht Ogmore, the Avon, the Cledaugh, and the Tavye. The Rhymny, or Remney, rifea upon the holders of ^recknockfliire, whence running fouth-fouth-ead, and fcparating Glamorgan(hire from Monmoathfliirc, it falls into the mouth of the Severn, eaft of Cardiff. The Taff rifcs in Krccknockihirc, fouth of the town of Brecknock, anJ running fouth- foutb eafl, by the city of LlandafF, and the town of Cardiff, falls into the mouth of the Severn, about a mile or two fouth-wcll of the mouth of the Rhymny. The Ogmore rifes upon the borders of Brccknock- birc, and running louth, falls into the Scvcrii-fea fume miles fouth-wcll of Cowbridge. The Avon rifes in the north part of the county, not far from the fource of the Ogmore, and running fouth, falls like- wife into the Severn fca at Aberavon, fouth-eaft of Neath. The Cladaugh rifcs alfo in the north part of the county, and running fouth, falls into the Briflol-Chanel, fouth of Neath. The Tavye rifes at the foot of the Blaclc-mountam in Brecknockfliire, and running fouth, falls into the chanel at Swanfey. The Icfs confiderablu rivers of this county are the Elay, the Ervcnny, the Neath, -.he Hcpfey, the Mal- ta, the Traugatb, the Duliflie, and the Turch. In the north part of this county, which is moun- tainous, the air is cold and piercing ; but on the fouth fide, towards the Tea, where the country is more level, it is mild and pleafant. The foil, on the north- fide, though generally barren, is inter- fperfed witi valleys which afford good paftuie ^ while the fou h part, admitting of cultivation, pro- duces large crops of corn and remarkable fweet graft. The latter fubJivifion is fo fruitful, pleafant, and po- pulous, that it is often called the Garden of Wales. 7'he county in general abounds with fheep and other cattle, butter, and fi(h ; and the mountains yield co»ls and lead ore. This county lies in the province oi Canterbury, partly in the diocefe of St. David's, and partly in that of Llaadaff, and has a hundred and eighteen pjrilhes. It is divided into ten hundreds, and con- tains one city, with five market-towns. The city is Liandaff; and the market-towns are Cardiff, Cow- bridge, Neath, Penrife, and Swanfey, Llandaff is diflant from London a hundred and forty-reven miles, and is a mean place that contains nothing worthy of notice, except a cathedral, which, though built in 1107, i^ ftill a fine Aruflure, and in »efy good condition. The length of this church is two hundred and fixty-three foot, the breadth fixty- tve, and the height is of the fame dimenfions with the latter. There is in this church no crofi-aiie, nor any middle flceplc, as in common in other cathedrals ; bit in the weit front are two tosvers, though not of equal height, nor uniform (lru£\ure, 'i he nortli. well of thole, which is the handfomeft, is* hundint aiMl live foot high, and the other only rig!ity-livc tc;i>:. At Caerphilly, north of Llandaff, is a luincij caDle, efleemed the noMed remains of ancient archi- te£>ure ir» Britain. It (lands in a m'lorilh bottom, near the river Rhymnty, atid appears to have been larger iban any cattle in England, except th.tt of VVindfor. Some conjeiSure it to have hern originally a work of the Romans, and the place which they called Bullxum Siturum ; but for this opinion tlicns is no other reafon than the magnificence of the IIhic- lure, the ruins of which evince that it has been ac lead rebuilt llnce the time of the Romans. Aiiiidll the many ftupendous pieces which compole this pile of ruins, is a large tower towards the eaft end, between fcventy and eighty foot high, with a fiirure from the top almoft to the middle, fo wide that the lineal pro- je(5liun of the tower at the top, on the outer fide, is ten foot and a half. The hall, or as fome think, the chapel of this caftic, is about fcventy foot long, thirty- four broad, and I'evcnteen high. On the fouth fiJc the room is afcenJcd by a ftair-cafe, about eight foot wide, the roof of which is vaulted, and fupported by twenty arches, which rife ,'<,radually one above another. Oppofite the ftait-cafc, on the north fide of the room, is a chimney about ten foot wide, having on each fide two windows like thofe of a cathedral, which are adorned with fculpturcs of leaves and fiuit. On the walls on cither fide, are fevcn triangular pillar*, placed at equal diftances. Each pillar is fupported by three bufts, alternately reprefenting perfons of dif- ferent ages and fexes ; and from the floor to the bot- tom of the pillars, the height is about twelve foot. Not far from Carphtlly Callle (lands another ruinoiM building, called Llandblytbian Caftle, which was ere£lcd before the Roman conqueft. On a mountain called Kevn Gelhi Gaer, ne»r Caerphilly, is a monnment, confiding of a rough (lone pillar, of a quadrangular form, about eight foot high. It (lands clofe to a fmall eotreiKhment, in the middle of which is a fc^uare area, fuppofed, from a rude infcription on the pillar, to contain the corpCe of one Tefroiti. Cardiff, or Caordiff, (lands on the river Taff, at the diftanceof a hundred and eighty-three miles from London. It is a well built town, of confiderable extent, and reckoned the handfomed in Soutli Wales. Soon after the Norman conqucft it was for- tified with walls aud a caftle, by Robert Fitz Haimon, a Norman knight. The caftle, which yet remains, is a large, ftrong, and ftately edifice ; and the con- ftable of ii is always the principal magiftrate of the town. Here are two parifhes, but only one church, the other having been demolifhed in the civil wars un- der Charles I. Here is alfo a fii:e bridge over the river Taff, a commodious harbour, and a good traik to Bridol and fome other places. Cowbridge is fituated upon the banks of the Ewen- ny, a hundred and feventy-five miles from London. Here is a good (lone bridge over the river, and a har- bour for boats. Bovcrton, about three miUs from Wal hit pi Nea Bridol I.landa yen foi trade i the nei Nidum Llanyl cient b cient Wales.) GENERAL TRAVELLER. 47< hii place, ii fuppoCcd to be the Bovium of Antoninui. Neaih lUiids on a river of iti own name, near the BriAul Channel, thirty-two milei north-weft of MandafF, Here ii a bridjje over ihc river, with a ha- ven for fmall vefTeli ; and the town carriei on a good trade in coals, which are dug up in great plenty in the neighboiiihnod. This place is fuppolcd to be the Nidum of Antoninus. At an adjacent village, called Llanylted, are dill to be feen the foundations of an- cient buildings, and fomc Uonc monuments, with an- cient BritiO) Iculpture and infcriptions, Swanfcy, or Swan-fea, derives its name from the porpoifes or fea hogs, which are found here in great numberi. It is diOant from London two hundred and two miles, and is a large, well built town, with a good harbour, where fomctimes a hundred vcfl'els at a time come in for coals and culm. The latter is the dul> of the former, and when mixt with a third part of mud or flime, makes a durable fire, which yields very little fmoalc. This town carries on the greateft trade of any in the county, particularly in coals, of which there are fcveral excellent pits in the neigh- bourhood. On a mountain called Keyn-burn, not far from Swanfey, is a monument, confiding of a vaft rude {lone, called Arthur's Stone, fuppofed to weigh up- wards of twenty tons, and fupported by fix or feven other ftoties, each about four foot high. Penrice is fituntcd fifteen miles fouth-wcft of Swanfey, near thefca-coaft, and has a harbour for (hipt. Near this place is a promontory, the moft wederly point of Glamorganfhire, and called Warmfhead- point : it ilretches about a mile into the fea, and at half flood, the iflhmus, which joins it to the main land, is fo overflown that it Lecomes an illand. To- wards the extremity of this point it a crevice, into which if dud or fand be thrown, it will immediately I reckoned the capital of Wales; and here the ancient This is a fine large river, but on account of a fand- bed at the mouth of it, is navigable only by (hips of fmall burden, I'he Cothy rifes upon the borders of Cardigan- fliire, fouth-eaft of Tregaron, and running fouth-wef), falls into the Towy about five miles eaft of Caer- marthan. The Tave, or Trivy, rifes in Cardigan- fliire, near the fpring of the Towy, where direding its courfe fouth-weft, and feparating Cardiganfhire from Cacrmarthenfhire and Pembroktfliire, it lallt into the Iri(h-fea near Cardigan, Other rivers of this county are the Dulas, the Krone, the Guendrathvrwa, the Cowen, the Towa, the Tave, and the Ainond, The air of this county is reckoned more mild and healthy than that of the neighbouring counties ; and the foil not being fo mountainous and rocky as in other parts of Wales, is more fruitful in corn and paflure. Vad numbers of cattle arc fed in this county, which alfo abounds with fowl and fifli, particularly falmon, for which the rivers here are famous. It i:. likewife well docked with wood, and contains many mines of pit-coal, Caermarthendiire lies in the province of Canter- bury and diocefe of St. David's, and comprehends eighty-feven pariflies. It it divided into fix hundreds, and includes fix market-towns, viz. Caermarthen, Kedwally, Llandilovawr, Llanelthy, Llangharn, and Llanimdovery. Caermarthen dands at the didance of two hundred and fix miles from London, in the bed air, and the mod fertile foil in the county. It is a well built populous town, with a fine done-bridge over the Towy, and a convenient key, to which veflels of a hundred tons come up. Of late years this place has carried on a confiderable trade. It was formerly afcend ; and if a perfon apply his ear to the crevice, he will hear didinflly a deep noife, like that of a pair of bellows, Thefe phenomena are afcribed to the undulatory motion of the fea in the caverns of the promontory. Glamorganfhire in the time of the Romans was part of the didrid inhabited by the Silures. It has no manufafiure, and fends two members to parliament, viz. one for the county, and one for the borough of Cardiflt. C A E R M A R T H E N S H I R E, CaermartheiilUire is bounded on the cad by Gla- morganftjire and Brecknockdiire, on the fouth by St. George's Channel, on the weft by Pembrokefliire, and on the north by Cardlganfhire, It extends in length from north to fouth thirty-five miles, and in breadth about twenty. The principal rivers are the Towy, the Cothy, and the Tave. The Towy rifes in Cardiganfliire, north- tA\ of Tregaron, whence running fouth and fouth- weft through the county, it falls into St. George's Channel about eight miles fouth of Caermarthen. Britons held their parliaments or aflTemblies of wife men. This borough is the Maridunauin of Pto- lemy. At Rilman Lhwyd, wed of Caermarthen, about the beginning of the lad century, was difcovered a confiderable quantity of Roman coins of bafe filver, and of all the Roman emperors from Coinmodus, to the fifth tribuncfhip of Gordian III, A, D. 243 ; and not far hence, at a place called Bronys-kowen, in the parifli of Lhan-Boydy, is a large camp called the Gaer, in the entrance of which, in the year 1692, were difcoverad two rude leaden-boxest butied very near the furface of the ground, containing two hun- dred Roman coins, all of filverj and fome of the moft ancient found in Britain. The camp in which thefe coins were found, is of an oval form, and upwards of three hundred paces in circumference. The en- trance is four yards wide, and n^ar it the bank or rampart is about three yards high, but in other places generally much lower. On each fide of the camp is a barrow or tumulus, one near it, and the other, which is much larger, at the diftancs of three hundred yards. Near Trelech, north-weft of Caermarthen, is a remarkable barrow called Krig y Dyrn, fuppofed to I fignify 476 II MODE N [EUROPK. flgnify the iing*i barrtw. It conHns of a liuap of ftonci covered with turf, about eighteen foot high, and a hundred and fifty in circumference. It rifei with an eafy afcent, and is hollow on the top, f^ently inclining from the circumference to the center, wIrtc is .1 rude flat ftone of an oval form, about nine foot long, five foot broad, ;. id a foot high, covering a kind of chcfl, confifting of fix other Hones. This barrow it fuppofed to the burying-place of fomc Uiitifh prince of gri-at antiquity. Llanelthy, or Llanelly, ftands on a creek of the fea, nt the diilance of tvvu hundred and fo irtccn miles from London, and carries on a confidcrable trade in coal. Kidwelly Is diftant from London two hundred and twenty-two miles, and is fituatcd between two fmall rivers, on a large bay of the Severn-fea, called Tewby. It is chiefly inhabited by (ifhcrmen, and has a harbour, which, being choaked up with fand, is at preCcnt al- moft ufclefs. Llandilovawr is fituatcd a hundred and fevcnty-two miles from London, on the river Towy, over which it has a ftonc- bridge. Its parifh is the largcft in the county, being thirteen miles long and feven or eight broad. Llanimdovery is diftant from London a hundred and eighty-two miles. Upon a hill, a little from the town, is the parilh-thurch, near the cad end of which have been dug up Roman bricks, and other remains of antiquity. A fine Roman way leads from this church to Lhan Bran, which lies a few miles to the northward, Llanharn, Llanhcrn, or Taloharn, ftands near the mouth of the Tavc, a hundred and ninety-four miles from London. Here is an ancient caltle now in ruins. The town is not inconfiderable, and has a few fliips, which carry on a fmall trade by fea. Under the Romans Caetmarthcnfhire,C3rdigan(hire, and Pcmbrokcfliire, were inhabited by a tribe of Bri- tons called by Ptolemy the Dimetz and Demeta j but Pliny, by miftakc, has allotted this diftri^ to the Silures. This county has no manufadVure, and fends only two members to parliament, viz. a knight of the (hire, and a member for the borough of Caermarthcn. PEMBROKESHIRE. Pcmbrokcfhirc forms the fouth-wcft extremity of Wales ; it is bounded on the eart by Caermarthen- fliirc, on the north-eafl. by Cardig.mfhire, and on all other fides by the Irifh fea. It extends in length from north to fouth twenty-fix miles, and in breadth twenty. The principal rivers of this county are the Tcivy, the Clcthy, and the Dougledyc, The Teivy has been defcribcd among the rivers of Cacrmarthcnfliire. The Clcthy rifcs at the fooi: of a hill called Vreiiny- vawr, fome miles eafl: of Newport, and running fouth, falls into the mouth of the Dorigludye, at its con- flux with Milford Haven, a bay of the fea near Pem- broke. The Dougledye rifes fome miles north-eafl uf 4 St David's, whence running fouth-fafl, it falls with the river Clcthy into Millord Heaven, as has been mentioned. The lefs confiderable rivers of thil county are the Gwaine and the Neverti, The air of Pcmbrokefliirc is more healthy than is comm'iii to places fo much cxpofed to the fea. ']'he few niouiit.iins which lie in t.'ic iiurth-eall part, yield good padure ) and towards the fca-coafl there it plenty of corn and rich meadows. The county a- buunds with cattle, fliccp, goats, and wild-fuw] uf various kinds, fume of which are fcldoiii fecii in any other part tif Brit-iin. Among thof: arc the falcons called paregrins, the pulTins, and the harry-birds. It is well fiipplicd with filh of all forts ; and here i« air» great plenty of pit-coal, and culm. This county lies in the province of Canterbury and diocefc of St. David's, and has a hundred and forty- hvc parillies. It is divided into feven hundreds, and contains one city, with feven market-towns. The city is St, David's, and the market towns are Fifh- gard, Haverford-Weft, Kilgarring, Newport, Pem- broke, Tenby, and Whifton. St. David's derives its name from a cathedral built here,' and dedicated to St. David and St. Andrew. It it faid to have been creiSlcd into an epifcopal fire in the reign of king Arthur, when St. David, its firll bifhop, had iti diocefe. This city is diftant from London two hundred and fixty-eight miles, and ii fituatcd about a mile fiom the extremity of a naked tongue of land, called St. David's Head, which pro- jcfls with a high front into the Irifli fea, and is the moft weflerly point in Wales. St. David's appears to have been anciently a confiderable city, but from its wild, barren, and unhealthy fituat'on, it is fo dc- ferted, that here is no market ; but ic continues to be the fee of a bifhop, who has a palace in it, much out of repair. Here is alfo a cathedral, which is a vene- rable old ftru£lure, having been built in the reign of king John, It is three hundred foot in length; the didance from the wed door tu the entrance of the choir, is a hundred and twenty-four foot, and from the choir to the altar is eighty foot : the breadth of the body of the fidea'les is feventy-two foot ; that of the wcd-front is fcvcnty-fix foot ; and the length of the great crofs-aile, from north to fouth, is a hundred and thirty foot. The height of the middle-aile, to the vaulting, is fifty-four foot ; and over the middle of the church is a tower a hundred and twenty-fevcn foot high. The weft end of this church is in tolerable good repair ; but the eaft end has fuftcred much from time and negleifl, the roof being quite fallen in. St. David, the tutelar faint of Wales, who died in 642, and is fuppofed to be buried in the cathedral, is faid to have lived to the age of a hundred and forty- fix years, fixty five of which he was bifliop of Me- iievia, afterwards called St. David's. He is thought to have been uncle to king Arthur. St. David's Head is the Odlopitarum mentioned by Ptolemy. On a cliff which hangs over the fea, about half a mile from the city, is a done fo large that it is fuppofed to exceed the draught of a hundred oxen. It f EuRopr. |, it fallj Willi »» has been lounty are the jejlihy tli.in ij (he fca. 'ihe »'• P-irt, ylilj joaft tlicrc it I'hc County a- wild-fowj „( I' '<-'<-ll ill any Ire the falcoiij liarry-birdj. I i and here i« laiHcrliury anj red and forty- iundrcds, aiij towns. The "IS are Fifh- wport, Peiii- atheJral built St. Andrew. 'iCcopal fee in >-ivid, its firft diftant from miles, and ia ty o( a naked I, which pro- a, and is the id's appears to but from its it is fo de- mtinucs to be it, much out ch is a vcne- the reign of length; the trance of the It, and from e breadth of foot ; that of the length of is a hundred Idlc-aile, to r the middle wenty-fcven in tolerable much from Icn in. who died in athedral, is I and forty- lop of Me- > thought to entioned by : fca, about > large that ndred oxen. It Walei.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. It ii called iht neiixj-fltni, from its having been mounted about three foot high upon other (lonci, in fuch an c(]uilibrium, that a fliglic touch would ruck it from one fide to the other. But the parlia- ment fulJitri, in the civil-wari under Charles I. re- garding this llone as the objedl of a lupcrliiiious tra- dition, dcllioycd it! cquipuife, fo that it ii at prelent inimuvcablc, Tenby, or Tcnbelgh, Is diftant fi.)m London two hundred and eight miles. It was I'u.'ii^rly fortified with walls and a calllo, which are now decayed ) but it ii flill I neat town, and, except Pembroke, the mud agrecablf on ail the coall of South-Wales. It has a good road fur (iQiing, a commodious bay, a great hihcry of herring in the feafon, and carries on a cuiifidciable trade to Ireland, particularly in coals. Ncir this place Hands a ruinous cjltle, called Ma- nobar Callli-, which was built fuon alter the Norman conqucll. Pembroke, or Penbroke, is fltuatcd two hundred and tifiy-four miles from London, upon the eallern cieek of MilfurJ Haven, which dividing here into two branches, one of them runs up upon the north, and the other upon the fouth fide ot (he town, like two fmall rivers, over each of which it a handfome bridge. In former times this town likewife was for- tified with a caflle and walls. The caflle was built by Arnulph do Montgomery, brother to the earl of Shrewsbury, In the reign of Henry I, but is now much decayed. Part of the walls is yet Handing ; they have three gates, and were originally fortified with feveral towers. Here ate many good houfes^ and a cuftom-houfc. Among the inhabitants are feveral merchants, who employ near two hundred velTcIs on thulr own account ; fo that Pembroke, next to Caer- inarthen, is the largcfl and richell town in South Wales. Under Pembroke caftlc is a vault called the Wogan, remarkable for a fine echo, Milford Haven Is by much the befl harbour in Bri- tain i and one of the fafcfl as well as the mod fpaclous in Europe. It has fixteen creeks, five bays, and thirteen roads, diflinguiflied by their refpeflive names, in which, it is faid, a thoufand fail of fliips may ride in perfcdl fccurity. The fpting-tide rifes in this har- bour thirty-fix foot, and the neap-tide above twenty- fix foot, fo that fhips may be laid afhore at any time. But the great advantage of this harbour is, that in an hour's time a fliip may be in or out of it, and in the fair way bttween the Land's-end and Ireland. As It lies near the -rc'ith of the Severn, a fliip in eight or tin hours may be over on the coaft of Ireland, or off the Land'b-ciid in the Englifh Channel ; and a velTel may get out of this place to the weft much fooner than from Plymouth or P'almuuih. The entrance to this harbour is eafily known by three iOands, which lie to the north wed, all in fighr, called Scuokham, Scawmore, and Grefbolme ; and alfo by an iflaiid to the fouth-ealt, call Lundy. Here is likewife a fmall ifland, called the Sheep Iflandj juft at the entrance, on the eafl fide j and another within the entrance, called Rat-Idand. The harbour is farther known by an old light-houfe tower upon No. 4c. ^7^ the wefl fide of the entrance, and by two olJ block- houfes, or forts, on cliffs, one on each fide. Haverford, or Haverford-Wcft, is dlltant front London two hundred nd lilty-fix miles, and is fitu- ated on the fide of a hill, which furmi pirt of the weft bank of the river Dougledye. It Is a well-built populous town, containing three parifh-churches, bc- fides one in the fuburbs. The church of St, Mary's IS a very neat building, with a curious fpire. Hert is a good frec-fchool, a charlty-fchool, and an almi- houfe, with the county jail, a commodious quay for fhips of burden, a cuftoin-houfe, and a fine ftone bridge over the Uouglcdyc. This place was anciently fortifisd with a rampart, and a Itrong caftic ; but they were deflroycd In the civil wars under Charlej I. It is a rich trading town, and contains much gen- teel company. VVhiflon, or Wiflon, is diftant from London 1 hundred and ninety-one miles, and contains nothing worthy of note. I'llhgard, or FIfhcard, is fituated a hundred and ninety- nine miles from London, at the foot of a hill Of cliff, near the influx of the river Gwalne to the fea. It has a good harbour, and 1 confidcrable trade In herrings. Newport is diftant from London two hundred milei, and (lands at the mouth of the Ncvcrn. It is a large town, but the buildings are generally mean. Here Is, however, a handfome church, and a good har» hour. Though the town carries on fome trade with Ireland, it is a poor place, aild is chiefly fupported by paficngers to and from that country. Kllgarring, or Kilgarran, is fituated on the north bank of the i'eivy, a hundred and eighty-nine miles from London. It is a long town, confiding chiefly of one (Ireet and has a harbour for boats, with a fal- mon fifhcry. Here was formerly a caftle, which is now in ruins. At this place is a ftcep catara£l of the river Telvy, called the Salmon Leap, from the admirable dexterity Jifcovered by that fifli in furmounting it. When a falmon, in its way from the fea arrives at this ca- tara£l, it forms itfelf into a curve by bending its tail to its mouth, and fometimes, in order to mount with the greater velocity, by holding its tail between its teeth ; then difengaging itfelf fuddenly, like an eladic fplral violently rcfleiled, it fprings up the precipice. Pcmbrokefliire, under the Romans, was part of the territories of the DimctK. In this county are dill to be fecn feveral ancient tumuli or barrows, wicli a variety of rude ftone monuments. Among the latter the mod remarkable is one called y Gromleck, m the parifli of Ncvcrn, Jt confifts of a circle of rough dones, about a hundred and fifty foot in circum- tcrence, pitched on one end. In the centre is a large rude done, about a foot long, nine broad, and three thick, fupported by eight ftone pillars, about eight foot high, A portion of this done, about ten foot in length and five broad, is broken off, and lies by the fide of it ; and under it the ground Is neatly paved with ilag-ftonet. This county Uas no manu- facture, and fends to parliament three members, viz, 6 D a knighC i I. -m-' ill T ' ;' ^1 ii i^i , -1 ; ! 1 i i^ <^, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I ISO ^^" ■■■ ^ m 118 US, 12.0 M l^ll'-^U4 < 6" ► '^ d%. ^' '/ /A Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14SM (716) 872-4503 f ^ 6 478 T H E M C a knight of the fhin, a burgeft for PembrokCi and anocber for Haverford-Wefl. CARDIGANSHIRE. Cardiginfliire is bouaded c.i the fouth by Caermtr- dienfltire and a part of Pembrokefliirre, on the weft by the Irifli fea, on the north by part of Merioneth- Ihire and Montgomcryfliire, and on the caft by part of Radnorfliire and Brecknockihire. It extends in kngth from foutb-weft to northcaft about forty miles, and in breadth eighteen miles. The principal rivers of this county are the Tcivy, the Rydal, and the Iftwyth. The Telvy, or Tave, it a river of Caermarthenfliire, and hat been already defcribcd among ihofe of that county. The Rydal has its origin on the (outh-wtft fide of Plyn-Lym. non mountain, upon the borders of Montgomeryfliire, and running weft-fouth-weft, falls Into the Irifli fea at Aberiftwyth, a market-town. I'he Iftwyth ifliies not far from the fpring, of the Rydal, ani running nearly in the fame direAion, falls with it into the Irifli fea at Aberiftwyth. Th; lefs confiderable rivers are the Kerry, the Debtpr, th« Aynan, the Arth, the Weray, and the Sair«k. The temperature of this county is correfpondent with the nature of the foil : the fouthern and weftern part* being more kvel than it common in the prin- cipality) enjoy a mild and pleafant air, and a fruit- ful foil i but the northern and caftern parts being one continued ridge of mountains, are comparatively barren and bleak. Yet in the wprft parts of the county there is pafture for vaft herds of cattle, with which Cardiganfliire fo much abounds, that it has been called the nurfery of cattle for ail England fouth of Trent. Here are likewife vaft flocks of Bleep, with plenty of river and fca-Bfli of all kinds, and the Teivy is famous for excellent falmon. Cocls arH ether fuel are fcarce ; but in the northern parts of the county, particularly about Aberiftwyth, are feveral rich lead mines, the ore of which appears often above ground. Cardiganfliire lies in the province of Canterbury and diocefe of St. David's, and contains feventy-feven parifhet. It is divided into five hundreds, and includes five market-towns, namely, Aberiftwyth, Cardigan, IJanbadarnvawr, Llanbedor St. Peter, and Tregaron. Cardigan is pleafantly fitua'.ed on the Teivy, at the diftanceof two hundred and four miles from Lon- don. It is a large populous place, with a handfome church, and a town-hall, in which the county bufi. nefs is tranfa^ed. Here is alfo a county jail, and a fine ftone bridge over the river. This to'^n was for- snerly defended bj a caftle and walls, which are now in ruins. At Neuodh, in the neighbourhood of Cardigan, is a monument confifling of nineteen ftones, which are difpofed in fuch a manner as renders it difficult to count them. Here it alfo another monument, called D N [Europe WAtI the Stone of the gigantic woman, which is fupported by four large ftone pillars. At Penbiyn, north of Cardigan, near the fea-fide, is a large rough ftone, lying on the ground, with an infcription, cut very deep, but unintelligible } and about the end c' the laft century, a Britifli gold coin was found here, weighing near a guinea, and fuppofed to be of an earlier time than the arrival of the Romans in this ifland. Aberiftwyth is diftant from Lonuon a hundred and ninety-nine miles. It it a populous rich town, but has no parifti-churcb, being only part of the parifh of Llanbadarnvawr, in its neighbourhood. It has, however, a great trade in lead, and a confiderable filhery of whiting, cod, and herring. It was anci« ently fortified with a caftle and walls, which are now decayed. Not far from this place it a monument called Gwely Taiicfin, the grave of Talicfin. This per> fon was a celebrated Britifli bard, who lived about the year 540 The monument confifts of four ftonea placed in the form of a fquare. Thofe on the fidei are five foot long, the other two, three foot long, and the whole is about a foot above ground. Not« withflanding the name of this monument, and a tra« dition in the neighbourhood that the poet Talicfin was buried here, it is believed to be of much greater antiquliy. Llanoadarnvawr, is a well-built town, with a fmall harbour, fituated at the diftance of a hundred and ninety-fcven miles from London. It has a hand* feme church, that was formerly the cathedral of a bifliop. Llanbedor St. Peter, or Pont-Stefian, ftands a hun» dred and fcventy-five miles from London, on the bank of the Teivy, over which it hat a bridge. Here is a church, a.id feveral good inns, for the accommo> dation of travellers. Tregaron is diftant from London a hundred and feventy-one miles. It is likewife fituated on the bank of the Tcivy, and has a handfome church. Under the Romans this county was part of the diftriifl inhabited by the Dimetse. It has no manu- faAure, and fends to parliament two members, viz. a knight of the fliire, and a burgefs for the town of Cardigan ; the latter of whom is elefled by thebur- gefles of Cardigan, and the four other towns that have been mentioned. BRECKNOCKSHIRE. Brecknockfliire is bounded on the weft by Cardi« ganihire and Caermarthenfliire, on the north by Rad- norfliire, on theeaft by Herefordfliire and Monmouth- fllirc, and on the fouth by Glamorganfliire. It ex- tends in length from north to fouth thirty-five miles, and from eaft to weft thirty-three. The principal rivers arc the Wye, the Li Ik, ani the Yrvon. The Wye rifes near the foot of Plyn-Lymmon.a vaft mvuntain [Europe i» fupported •he fea-fide, ground, with hinteUigible , I Britia gold J guinea, and ■he arrival of Ihundred and lh town, but pf the parifli od. It ha., Iconfiderable ft was anci- h>ch are now iment called Thij per. lived about f four ftonea on the fidet • foot long, und. Not- and • tra. « Talicfin luch greater 'fl> with a 'a hundred has a hand- edral of « n the bank '. Here is accommo- ndred and 1 the bank irt of the no nanu- bers, viz. ■ town of I the bur- wns that Wales.J GENERAL TRAVELLER. 479 ' Cardi- i>y Rad. imouth. It ex- : miles, <, and ■ a vaft untain mountain in the fouth-weft part of Montgomeryshire, whence running fouth^eaft, it feparatei Radnorfliire and Brecknoclcfliire from each other ( after which, paOing through Herrfordfliire, and parting Monmouth- fbire from Gloucefterlhire, it falls into the Severn near Cbepftow. The Uflc rifes at the bottom of a hill fouth wed of Brecknock, on the borders of Caer- marthenfliire, whence running fouth-eaft through the town of Brecknock, and being joined by feveral lefs confiderable rivers, it palTes into Monmouthfhire, near the town pf Abergavenny. The Yrvon, or Irvon, rifes among fome hills upon the borders of Cardi- ganffiire, north-weft ofBealt, a market-town, whence running fouth-eaft, and being juined by feveral fmall ftreams, it falls into the river Wye near Bealt. Other fmallcr ftreams are the Whefrey, the Dules, the Hondhy, and the Brane. The air of this county is remarkably mild every where, except on the hills, which is attributed to its being furrounded with high mountains. The foil, particularly on the hills, is very ftony ; but the val- lies, on account of the many ftreams with which they are watered, are fruitful both in corn and pafturc, Brecknockfliire produces not only black cattle, goats, and deer, but gieat abundance of fowl and frefli-water fifli ; and on the eaft fide of the town of Brecknock, is a lake about two miles long, and nearly as broad, called Brecknock-meer, which abounds with otters, and fuch quantities of perch, tench, and cf.I, that it h commonly faid to be two thirds water, and one third fi(h. Brecknockfliire lies in the province of Canterbury and diocefe of St. David's, and has fixty-one pariflies. It is divided into fix hundreds, and contains three market- towns, which are Bealt, Brecknock and Kay. Brecknock, or Brecon, is diftant from the capital a hundred and fixty-three miles, and ftands on the river Ufk, over which it is has a good ftone bridge. The town is well-built, of an oval form, and forti- fied with walls ; having alfo a ruinous caftle, and three churches. It is well inhabited and has a con- fiderable fliare in the woollen manufacture. From feveral coins dug up here, this town appears to have been a ftation of the Romans. In the neighbour- hood is a fquare camp, where have been found fe- veral Roman bricks,with this infcription, leg. ii.auc. On the top of a mountain near Llan-Hammwich, a village not far from Brecknock, is an ancient mo- nument, called Ty-ilktud, or St. Ilktud's hermitage. It confifts of four large flat and unpollflied ftoncs, three of which arc pitched in the ground, and the fourth laid on the top for a cover. The form is an t>blong fquare cell, open at one end, about eight foot long, four foot wide, and four high. On the infide it is infcrlbed with crofles and other figures : it is fuppofed to have been furrounded by a circle of large ftoncs, and ereded in the times of paganifm. Bealt, Burlht, or Builht, is di{\ant from London a hundred and fifty-feven miles, and is a pleafant, well-built town, fituatcj in a woody country, on the fouth bark of the river Wye, over which 't has a lari^c Wooden bridge. It is fortified with a caftle, 6 and hac a confiderable manufaClure in ftockings. This place is fuppoled by fome to be the Bullaem Silurum mentioned by Ptolemy i but at the conjeAure feems to be entirely founded upon a fimllitude of names, others are of opinion that Kaeren, where the ruins of a Roman fortification are yet vifible, not far from Bealt, is more likely to have been the Bullaeum Silu- rum, if that fort ftood in this county. Hay is fituated on the fouth fide of the Wye, near the borders of Hercfordfhire, at the diilance of a hun- dred and thirty-five miles from London. From feveral coins found here, and part of a wall yet ftanding, this place appears to have been a Roman ftation. Brecknockfhire, in the time oi the Romans, was part of the territory of the Silures, Its principal ma> nufadures are cloth and ftockings ; ind it fends to parliament two members, one for the county, and one for the borough of Brecknock. RADNORSHIRE. Radnorfhire is bounded on the fouth by Brecknock- fhire, on the weft by Cardiganfhire, on the north by Montgomeryfhire, and on the eaft by Shropihire and Hercfordfhire. It extends in length from eaft to weft twenty- four miles, and from north to fouth twenty-two miles. The chief rivers are the Wye, the Temd, and the Ithen. The Wye has been defcribed in the preced- ing article. The Temd rifes in the north part of Radnorfhire, whence running eaftward, and feparating Shropthire from the counties of Radnor, Hereford, and Worceftcr, it falls into the Severn near Wor- cefter. The Ithen, or Yihen, rifes in a chain of vaft mountains on the northern extremity of the county, and running fouth and fouth-wefl, falls into the Wye a few miles north of Bealt in Brecknockfhire. The lefs confiderable rivers are the Dules, the Clowdok, and the Cameran, which are all difcharged into the Ithen. The air of this county is cold and piercing, and the foil in general but indifferent, the northern and weftern parts being fo rocky and mountainous, that they are fit only to feed cattle and fheep. The eaftern and fouthern however, are well cultivated and produce corn. The mountainous parts afford plenty of wood, and are watered with rivulets and fome ftanding lakes, the former of which yield abundance of falmon and other fifh, Radnorfliire lies in the province of Canterbury, partly in the diocefe of St. David's, and partly in that of Hereford, a.id contains fifty-two parifhes. It is divided into fix hundreds, and comprehr'tJs three market- 'owns, which are Knighton, Preftein, and Radnor. Radnor, or New-Radnor, is diftant from London a hundred and fixty-one miles, and ftandi at the bottom of a hill, upon the bank of a fmall mtc called the Somergil. It is a well-built town for this part of the country, and is a borough by prefcrip- tion. By a charter from queen Elizabeth, its jurif* diAion 4^4 THE MODERN [EuROPf. diAion cxfcnda ten or twelve miles. i and it hai a court of pleat for all a£lion« without limitation to any particular fum. Thii place is fuppored to have brcu the Magos, or Magnot, mentioned by Antoninus. Knighton is fituated a hundred and torty-fcven miles from London, in a valley on the bank of the Temd, over which it has a bridge. It is a well- built town, aud has a conGderable trade in the iron- ware, hops, fait, linen and woollen cloth, and other commodities. Preftein ftandt upon the baric of the river Lug, a hundred and forty-eight miles from London. It is a large welUbuilt populous town, and has a good market for grain, particularly barley, of which vail quantities of malt are made here. It is the place where the affixes for the county are held, and here is she county jail. RadnorOiire, in the time of the Romans, was in- habited by the Silures. One of the moft cekbrated remains of antiquity in this diftrii^, is part of a work called by the Welch KUwdh Oft», or Offa'a dyke, from /laving been cut by Offa, king of Mcrcia, as a boundary between the Englifli Saxons and the ancient Britons. This dyke may be traced through the whole extent of the county, from the mouth of the riv^r Wye, tc that of the river Dee. Near the precipice of the Wye called Rhaiadr Gwy, are feveral tumuli or barrows > and on the top of a hill in the neighbourhood, are three large heaps of ilones, fuppofcd to have been funeral monu> ments. Radnorfliire has hardly any manufaflure, but fends to parliament two members, one for the county, and one for the borough of New Radnor. MONTGOMERYSHIRE. Quitting South Wales, we arrive in Montgomery- (hire, which is bounded on the fouth by Cardigan- fliire and Radnorihire, on the weft by Merioneth- Ihire, on the north by Denbighlhire, and on the, eaft by Shroplbire. It extends in length from eaft to weft thirty miles, and from north to fouth twenty- iive miles. The principal rivers are the Severn, the Tanat, and the Turgh. I'he Severn, which has been al- ready defcribed, becomes navigable at Welch-pool, a market-towR of this county, after having been joined by twelve rivers, in a paflage of twenty miles from its fource. The Tanat, or Tanet, rifes in the north- weft past of the county, and running eaftward, falls into the Severn near the place where it enters the county of Salop. The Turgh rifes in the weftern part of the county, whence running north eaft, and being joined by the Warway, it falls into the Tanat north-eaft of Llanvilling. The lefs confiderable rivers are the Riadar, the Vurnovey the Rue, the Becchan, the Haves, the Carno, and the Dungum. The air of this county is fliarp and cold in the mountains, but pleafant and healthy in the vallies. a The northern and weftern parts being mountainous the foil is ftony and barren, except in the internic. diate valleys which yield corn, and abound in pal'- ture : but the fouihern and eaftcrn parti, confifting chiefly of a pleafant vale along the banks of the Se- vern, are exceeding fruitful. The breed of black cattle and horfes here is remarkably larger than that in the neighbouring Welch counties ; and the horfes of this county are much valued all over England. Montgomerylhire abounds with fifh and fowl ; and here are fome mines of lead and copper, particulaily in the neighbourhood of LUwidlos. This county lies in the province of Cant'^rbury, the diocefes partly of St. Afaph, fian^or, and Hereford, and contains forty-fevcn pariQies. It it divided into feven hundreds, and includes five mar- ket-towns, namely, Llanidlos, Llanvilling, Mack- ynleth, Montgomery and Welch- pool. Montgomery is fituated a hundred and fixty-oiie miles north-weft of London, on the declivity of a rocky hill, near the bank of the Severn. It is a large handfome town, and was formerly wallej round. This place derives its name from Roger de Mont- gomery, earl of Shrewfbury, who, foon after the Conqueft, built a caftle here, wiiich is now ruinous, having been in great meafure demoliflted in the civil wars of Charles I, In this town is the county jail, Welch-pool is diftant from London a hundred and fifty-three miles. It ftands in a fruitful vale, on the fide of a lake, and is a large well-built town, with a good manufaAure of flannel. Llanidlos (lands upon the eaftern bank of the Se- vern, not far from its fource, at the diftance of a hundred and fifty-eight miles from London, and con- tains nothing worthy of note. Caerfws, not far hence, on the bank of the Severn, was anciently a town of confiderable extent, and is fuppofed to have been of Roman foundation. The traces of ftrents, lanes and fortifications, are ftill vifible. Hewn fiones, and Roman bricks are frequently dug up ; and in the neighbourhood are three entrenchments, with a very large mount or barrow. Llanvilling is diftant from London a hundred and fifty- fix miles, and ftands in a dirty flat; but ii tolerably well-built, and has a good market for cattle, corn, and wool. Meivod, a finall village South o£ this place, is generally fuppofed to have been the Mediolanum, celebrated by Antoninus and Piolcny ; and many undoubted marks of its antiquity have been difcovered ir. the village and adjacent fields. But fome authors, overlooking Mciyod, have endeavoured to fix the ancient Mediolanum at Llanvilling, where many Roman coins have been found. Mathraval, a hamlet at prefcnt confifting of r o more than a fingle farm-houfe, ncir Meivod, was formerly the feat of the princes of Powis-land, an ancient di- vifion o'' this county. Mackynleth ftands a hundred and eighty-three miles from London, on the eaftern bank of the Dyffi, over which it has a good ftone bridge. This place is fuppofed to have been the Maglona of the Romans, where, in the time of the emperor Honorius, the band :.UR0PE. pntainoui, iiuernie. in pal- J conflftiiig i( ihe Sc. of black J than that Ithe horfe$ England. owl ; and [■rticulatljr bntorbury, tf.°r, and pes. It IS I five inar. Z, Mack* Wales.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 4«i band of the Solenre* wai fiationed, to check the mountaineeri. At Kevn Kaer, in the neighbourhood, •re confiderable ruin» of a large fortification, with the foundation* of many houfei. A variety of Roman coins haa been dug up here, among which are many of filver, of the emperori Auguftus and Tiberiui. MontgomeryOiire, with feme other neighbouring counties, wai anciently inhabited by the Ordovices, a warlike race of men, who were the lad of the BritiOi tribes that were conquered, iirft by the Romans, and afterwards by the Saxoni. It fends to parliament two members, one for the county, and one for Montgo- |omery, jointly with the other boroughs. MERIONYTHSHIRE. Merionythfliire is bounded on the eaft by Montgo- meryftiire and part of Denbighfliire, on the fouth by Cardiganfliire, on the weft by the IriOi fea, and on the north by Caernarvonfltire and part of Denbigh- (hire. It extends in length from north to fouch thirty- five miles, and from eafl to weft twenty-five. The principal rivers of this county are the Dyfl:., the Avon, the Drwrydh, and the ]>re. The Dyfii rife] among fome very high mountains, which form a chain on the eaftern borders of this county, and are called by fome writers the Alps of Wales, Running fouthward into Montgomeryfliire, it afterwards direfls its courfe fouth-weft, where, leaving that county at Machynleth, it feparates the counties of Merlonyth and Cardigan, and falls into the Irlfh Tea fome miles north Aberiftwyth in Cardlganfhire. The Avon (ifes on the eaft fide of a large forcft, called Benrofe wood, fouth-weft of fiala, a market-town, whence running fouth-weft, and pafitng by Dalgelhe, it falls into the Iriih fea fome miles weft of that town , The Drwrydh iflties from a lake in the northern extremity of the county, near the fource of the river Conway in Caernavonfliire, and running fouth-weft, falls into an arm of the Irifli fea, called Traeth Bychan, about four miles north of Harlech, the county town. The Dee rifes from two fprings near Bala i.-i this county, and running fouiheaft through Mcrionylhftiirc and Denbighfttire, directs its courfe north, and feparating Chefliire from North Wales, falls into the fouth creek of the peninfula. The Dee, near its fource, runs through a confiderable lake on the fouth fide of Bala, called Lhyn Tigid, or Plmble Meer ; and, as is faid, without mixing with it ; the filh at leaft of both waters feem not to mingle ; for though the Dee abounds with falmon, none are ever taken in the lake out of the ftream of the river ; neither does the Dee carry ofF the gwiniads, a fifh peculiar to this lake, which looks like a whiting, but has the tafte of a trout. The waters of Pemble Meer are faid to co- ver a hundred and fixty acres of ground. The lefs confiderable rivers of this county are the Defunny, the Sheihye, the Atro, the Cayne, the Angel, and the Kcffilaum. This being a rocky mountainous country, the air is cold and bleak, and the foil the oioft barren of No. 40, any in Wale*. It yields vety little corn, 4nd the inhabitant* live chiefly on butter, cheefe, and other preparations of milk 1 applying themfelves almoft en- tirely to grazing of cattle, for which the vallie* in this county afford excellent pafture. The number of (heep that feed upon th mountains is incredible. This county is alfo well ftocked with deer, goats, fowl, and all forts of fifli, particularly herring*i which are taken on the coaft in great plenty. Merionythfliire lies in the province of Canterburyi and diocefe of Bangor, and has thirty-feven pariOie*. It is divided into fix hundreds, and contain* three marktt-towns, which are Bala, Dolgeihe, and Har- lech, Bela is diftant from London a hundred and eighty- four miles, and is a corporation that enjoys many im- munities, but is a mean inconfiderable place. Hero are three mounds, which are generally miftaken for fepulchral monuments, but in reality were raifed for watch- ftations, when this country was the feat of war^ at the beginning of the Roman conquefts. Not far hence are the ruins of an ancient caftle, called Caftehl Corndochen, fuppofed to have been a Roman work. Dolgeihe is diftant from London a hundred and eighty-feven miles, and ftands upon the fouth bank of the Avon, at the bottom of a mountain called Idris, which is fuppofed to be one of the higheft in Britain. The town is well provided with inns for the accommodation of travellers, and has a confider- able manufacture of Welfli cottons. From fome Roman coins that have been dug up in the neigh- bourhood, this place is fuppofed to have been a Ro- man ftatijn. Harlech is fituated two hundred and ten miles from London, and has an old decayed caftle, with a go- vernor and a garrifon, for the fecurity of the coaft. The governor is by patent appointed mayor of the town. The houfes are meair, and the inhabitant* few; but here is a good harbour for fliips, though almoft totally unemployed. This place alfo is fup. pofed to have been a Roman ftation. At Feftineog, a village north of Harlech, in the north-weft extremity of this county, is a ilone caufe- way, called Sarn Helen, or Hellen's Way, and fup- pofed to have been made by Hellena, the mother of Conftantine the Great. It is likewife difcernible in feveral other places, particularly at (Craig Verwyn, and in different parts of Cardiganfliire and Glamor- ganfliire. Near Sarn Halen are the remains of a fortification called Kaer Gai, or Caius's Caftle, which was built by one Caius a Roman, of whom the people in thofe parts give very romantic accounts. About two miles from Harlech is a remarkable mo- nument called KoAon Arthur, confifting of a large oval ftone table, about nine foot long and feven broad { it lies floping on three ftone fupporters, two of which are near eight foot high, and the third about three foot. Merionythfliire in the times of the Romans was part of the territory inhabited by the Ordovices. The 6 £ only 48a H E M D E N [EUROPK. Wale only maoufaAura hen ii Welch cotton i ind the couoty fcndi only one member to parliement, who it a knight of the fliire. i CAERNARVONSHIRE. Caernarvonfliire ii bounded on the eaft by the conn- tiet of Merionyth and Denbigh, on the fouth-wcft, and north fidei by the Iciik fea, and on the north- weft it is feparated from the ifland of Anglefea by the Araiti of Meneu, It extends in length from north to (buth forty miles, and from eaft to weft about twenty. The principal rivers of this county are the Conway, and the ScienC. The former tifes in a lalce called Llyn Conway, where the counties of Caernarvon, Denbigh, and Merionyth meet, and running north- Ward, falls into the Irifli fea at Aberconway. Con- fidcring its length, which is but twelve miles from the lake to the fea, this is one of the mod extraordinary (rivers in Europe. It receives fo many fmall rivers and brooks, that it is navigable for (hips of confiderable burden within four miles of its fpring. The Scient rifea in a lake, Plyn Peri*, and running weftward a few miles, falls into the ftraits of Moneu at the town pf Caernarvon. Be.'ides feveral namelcfs rivers, there are in this county many lakes. The air of Caernarvonfliire is rendered cold and piercing, not only by the great number of lakes, but by the very high mountains, which, towards the middle of the county, fwell one above another, fo as to have acquired the name of the Britifli Alps. The tops of many of thofe mountains are covered with fnow during eight or nine months in the year, and on fome of them the fnow it perpetual, whence they aie called Snowdon-hills. The extremities of the county, however, parti- cularly thofe bordering on the fea, are as fruitful and papulous as any part of North Wales { yielding great abundance of fine barley, and feeding vaft num- bers of cattle and flieep. This county affords great plenty of wood, as the lakes and rivers freth-water fifhs and the coaft is well fupplied with fea-iifli of all forts. The river Conway is famous for a large black mufcle, in which are frequently found pearls, Caernarvonfliire isfituated in the province of Can- terbury, and diocefe of Bangor, and contains fixty- cight parilhes. It is divided into feven hundreds, and includes one city, with three market-towns. The city is Bangor, and the market-towns are Abercon- way, Caernarvon, and Pulkeli. Bangor is fituated at the north end of the ftraits of Meneu, between two ftrep hills, two hundred and thirty-fix miles from London, This place was for- merly fo large at to be called Bangor the Great, but it is now a fmall city, though a bifhop's fee, and has a harbour for boats. Here is a cathedral, which is thought by fome to have been buil: in 516, and con- fequently to be the moft ancient in Britain. At prefent, however, it is but a mean building. The other public edificei are the bifliop't palace and a free- fchool. Caernarvon is diftaat two hundred and fit'ty-milet from London, and it fituated at the fouih end of the Araii) of Meneu It was built by Edward I. who fortified it with walls and a ftrong caftle, which it yet Handing. It was furincrly a place of confiderable note, and it at prefent a neat fmall town, with • tolerable good harbour. Here is a ferry to Anglefet, called Abermenai Ferry; and in a bay before the town, there is good anchorage. At the mouth of the river Scient, near Caernar- von, ftood the town called by Antoninus Lcgon- tium. Some ruint of the wall were viftblc in the be-* ginning of the laft century. Later writers have called this the ancient city of the emperor Conftan- tine. In the year 1383, here was dirco\ered the body of an eminent Roman, thought by fomc to have been Conftantius, father of Conftantine the Great. By order of Edward I. it was re-interred in the church of Caernarvon. Aberconway, called likewife Conway, it diftant from London two hundred and twenty-nine milek, and is a handfome town, pleafantly fituated on the fide of a. hill { but notwithftanding its conveniencies for trade, it is the pooreft town in the county. This place was alfo built by Edward I. and had not only walls, but a ftrong caftle, which it now in ruins. At this place is a tomb ftone with the following ex- traordinary infcription : " Here lieth the body of Nicholas Hookt of Conway, Gent, who was the one and fortieth child of hit father, William Hooks, efq. by Alice his wife, and the father of feven and twenty children. He died the 20th day of March i<>37." Caerhen, upon the river Conway, about five milet fouth of Aberconway, was the Roman town called by Antoninus Conovium ; and about the beginning of the laft century here was difcovered a Roman hy- pocauft, built by the tenth legion, as appears from feveral tiles found at this place. Opofite to Conovium, on the other fide the river, ftood the ancient city Diganwy, which was deftroyed by lightning fome centuriet ago, and is fuppofed to have been the Roman city Didum, where, under the later emperors, the commander of the Nervii Dic- tenfei kept guard. In thit neighbourhood were difcovered, about the beginning of the prefent century, feveral brafs axes, fwordi, and other implements, fuppofed to be the military weapons of the ancient Britons, before they underftood the manufacture of iron and fteel. Pulheli is diftant from London two hundred and fifty-miles, and is a fmall place, not ill built, with » good harbour, and fome trade by fea. This county is remarkable for its vaft mountains, rocks, and precipices, Klogwyn Karnedh y Wydhva,a mountain caft of Caernarvon, is by fome reckoned the higheft in the Britifli dominions, being the fummit of a cluftcr of very lofty mountains, the tops of whicit rife one above another. Pen-mean-mawr, near Aberconway, is a vaft moun- tain or rocic, that rifcs perpendicularly on the fea- fliore to an oftonifliing height. About the middle of the rock, on that fide of it next the fea, is a rpad fe- l VCrt' [EOR OPK. WAtEJ.l GENERAL TRAVELLER. 483 fiity-milei enii of ihc «fd I. who *vhich it coafiderabia wn. with • o Anglefej, before the 'f Caernar- •i-s Legoti. in the be-* rilcri havo Conftan- iJ (he body have been rrcat. By tite church van foot wide for paflengeri, at the perpendicular height of two hundred and forty foot above the level of the fea, and at much below the lop of the rock. On the fide of the road next the fea, it a wall bread high, ereAed not many yean ago, towardi the biiilding of which the city of Dublin, in Ireland, greatly con- tributed. On the other fide of the hill is a narow foot way, over which the top of the rock projcdlii, fo as to form a very extraordinary and frightful ap- pearance to the traveller below. On the top of this hiU are dill vifible the ruins of three walls, one yithin another, each of which was fix or feven foot thick, and fortified with towers of equal dimenfioni ; but when or by whom this great work was eredied, is totally unknown. About a mile from this fortification is a hill, on the top of which ftands the moft remarkable monu- ment in the county. It is called Y Mcineu Hirion, and confifts of a circular entrenchment, about eighty foot diameter, on the outfide of which (land twelve rough (lone pillars, from five to fix foot high, which are enclofed by a (lone. wall. Without the wall are three other pillars of the fame kind, ranged in a tri- angular form. This work is fuppofcd to have been an ancient Britilh temple ( and near it are I'everal mo- numents, confining of vail heaps of (lones, which, according to tradition, are fcpulchral monuments of lincient Britons, who fell in a battle fought here againft the Romans. Not far from Pen-mean'mawr is Glyder, another very high mountain on the fea-fide. On its fummit is a prodigious heap of (lones, of an irregular (hape, many of which are as large as thofe of Stonehenge. They lie in fuch confufion as to refemble the ruins of a building, fome of them reclining, and fome lying acrofs one another. On the wed fide of this mountain there is, among many others, one very deep and naked precipice, adorned with a vaft number of pillars at equal dif- tances. The fpaces between them are fuppofed to be thee({e£ls of a continual dropping of water down the cliff, which is expofed to a wederly feawind. Under the Romans Caeraarvonfhire was part of the territory of the Ordovices. U was afterwards called Arvoniai and before the divifion of Wales into coun- ties, the £ngli(h called it Snowdon Foreft, from the mountains named Snowdon Hills. This county hu no manufaAure, and fends to parliament two members, one of whom is knight of the (hire, and the other re- prefents the borough of Caernarvon. DENBIGHSHIRE. Denbigh(hire U bounded on the wed by Caernarvon- (hire and Merionyth(hire, on the north by the Iri(h fea and port of Flintfhire, on the eaft by Chefliire and Shrop(hire, and on the fouth by Montgomerylhire, It extends in length from north-wed to fouth-wed forty miles, and from north to fouth about twenty. The principal rivers of this county are the Clwyd, the £lwy, the Dee, and the Conway. The Clwyd 4 rifes at the bottom of a hill fouth-wed of Ruthin, a market-towns which it palTes, and afterwards dire£)in| its courfe nearly north-wed, by St. Afaph, a city i« Flintfhire, it falls into the Iri(h fea a few miles from that place. The Elwey rifes in the fouth- wed part of the county, whence running fouth and norih-ead, it falls into theClwyd near St. Afaph. The Dee rifesnear Bala in Mctionethlhire, and runs north-ead through Denbighdiire into Chelhire } after which, dire£ling its courfe northward, and feparating tha' county from North Wales, it falls into the fouther.. creek of tba peninfula. The Conway feparates Denbighlhire from Caernarvonfliire, and has been mentioned in the de- fcription of the latter. The lefs confiderable dreams of this county are the Alwen, the Aled, the Clawedob, the Neag, and the Gyrow. The air of Dcnbighlhire is reckoned very healthy, but is rendered (harp and piercing by a vad chain of mountains, which almod furrounds the country, and the tops of which are during the greated part of the vear covered with fnpw. The foil is various, and al- m town, but con- tains nothing worthy of note. Upon Muflyn-Muuntain, not far from Caerwyi, ii a ftone pillar or monument, which hai much cx- crcifed the fpeculation of .intiquaries. It is ht In a pedeltal about five foot long, four foot and ■ half broad, and one foot t. . inches thick. Th* pillar is about thirteen foot high, of a rcAangular fliape, about two foot four inches by eleven incbeti and 'js engraved with various figures aud charaAeri, which have not yet been decyphered. It is fuppofctt to have been ereAed on account of fome flgnal viAory, btcaufe at y Gorredh.:u, in the neighbourhood, are fCveral barrows or burying places, where . vaft quantities of human bones have been dug up. This pillar is known in the Welch language by the name of Maen y Chwy- van, the Stone of Lamentation. Contigooui to Broughton-houfe in this county, lies the noted common of Threapwood, from time imme- morial a pUceof refuge for females, who difcovering themfelves to be pregnant by an illicit amour, re- forteJ thither with a view of being privately delivered. Numbers of houfcs are fcattered over the common for their reception. This trafl, till of late years, was extra-parochial. At fird, either on account of its remote fituation, or becaufe it was occupied by li- centious perfons, it never was united to any parifb. The inhabitants therefore conHdcred themfelves as beyond the reach of law, refilled all government, and even oppofcd the excife laws, till they were forced to fubmit; but not without bloodfhed on the occa- fion. This common is fituated between th parifhes of Malpas, Hanmcr, and VVorthenbury ; but belonged to none, till it was, by the late militia a£is, decreed to pertain to the lafl. Doubts however flill arife refpefling the execution of fcveral laws within the precin£l j an inconvenience which it is hoped the legiflature will remedy. Under the Romans, Flintfhire likewife condituted part of the territory of the Ordoviccs. It has no manufaffure } and fends to parli:tmcnt two members, one of whom is for the county, and the other for the brrough of Flint, No. 41. ANGLESEA. Ahglefca is an ifland in the Irifli Tea 1 but ai i^ forms one of the counties of Wales, a defcription of it may here be given along with the other divifioni of the princip-iliiy. This county is feparated on tht fouth-eaft from CaernarvonOiire, and the continent of Britain, by a narrow frith or ftrait called Menai, or Meneu, which in fome placet is fordable at low water. It it of an irregular figure, extending in length from call to wed twenty- four miles, and from fouih to north feventeen, Holyhead, a fmall penin- fula, (ituated on the fouth-weft part of this diflriA, ii reckoned about eighteen leagues ead of the city of Dublin in Ireland. The principal rivers of Anglefea are the Brant and the Kaveny. The former rifei about three or four miles weftward of Beaumaris, and running fouth* weft, falls into the Meneu, eaft of Newburgh. The Kaveny ifluei from a hill, near a village called Coy- dana, about ten milet north-weft of Beaumaris, whence running fouth-weft« and being joined by a fmall river called the Gynt, it falls into the Irilh fca, weft of Newburgh. The lefs confiderable. ftr**B* of tbi* ifland are the Alow, the Dudas, and the Qcweger, The air of Anglefea is rackoned healthy, except in autumn, when it ia often foggy and apt to pro- duce agues and other complainti. The country, though ftony and mountainolii, affords fo much corn and cattle, that the Welch call it in their language. Mam Cymry, the Mother or Nurfe of Wales. Thia illand abounds with fHh and fowl ; and in feveral parte of it are found excellent roill-ftones and grind-ftones. Anglefea lie* in the province of Canterbury and diocefe of Bangor, and includes feventy-four pariflies. It ii divided into fix hundreds, and contains only two market-towns, which are Beaumaris and Newburgh.- Beaumaris is a well-built town, confiding chiefly of two good ftreets, two hundred and forty-two milet from London. Here is a handfomr church, with a county jail, and a good harbour for Chips. It is the ufual place for the reception of palTengeri from Lon- don to Irelaitd, who embark at Holyhead, This town was built by Edward I. and fortified with a caftle, now in ruins. Newburgh ftands at the diftance of two hundred and twenty-feven miles from London, between two bays, one formed by the river Kaveny, and the other 'by the Brant. It is a fmall town, and contain* nothing worthy of note. Aber-Fraw, a village north-weft of this place, ii remarkable for having been the feat of the kings of North Wales, who are fometime* ftyled king* of Ater-Fraw, This ifland was known to the Romany by the name of Mona, and was, in common with the reft of North-Wales, inhabited by the Ordovices. In the time of the ancient Britons, it was celebrated for being more particularly the feat of the druids. The 6 F firft 486 THE MODERN [EuROPt. firft tllcmpt mtdt by Iht Romani lo bring it under thtir fubjcAion, wm in the reign of the emperor Nero, when Sueioniui -Piulinui, th« Romin general, invaded ii i but being obliged to march to the eaftern parti of Britain, to quell an infurrcAion of the leeni, he left the command in Anglefea to Jullua Agricola who fubJued it after an ebftinait engagement, in which the nativei were animated by the prefence of t!.e druldi, at well at thai of their wivei and daughteri, who incefTandy called upon them to maintain their ancient libertiei againft the tyranny of their invadcri. Not far from the city of Bangor, in Caernarvonfhire, it Gaer, where it it thought (he Romant pafled the Meneu into the ifland of Anglefea, the horfe at a ford, and the foot in flat-bottomed boat*, at men- tioned by Ttcitut. Oppofite to ibii fuppofed pilTage, on the north fide of Newburgh, it Gwydryn-hill, remarkable for two lofty fummiti, on one of which are the ruini of an ancient fort, conjeAurcd to have been built by the Romani, On the other fummit it ■ ^tiy deep pit in the rock, about twenty-feven foot in circumference, and filled with fine fand. Near Gwydryn-hill it a village called Tre'r Druw, which fignifiet the Druidi Town, and which pro- bably wai the lefidcnce of the BritiOi druidi belong, ing to thii ifland. South of Tre'r Druw, and on the eaft fide of Newburgh, it a village called Tre'r Bairdh, or the Bard'a Town. Between thofe two ancient townt it a fquare fortification, generally fup- pofed to have been a Roman camp, and the firft which that people formed after their arrival in An- glefea. On the weft fide of Ihia camp are twelve iloaet, each of which it about twelve foot high, and near eight broad. Thefe flonca are conjcfiured to have been fet up at fepulchral monumenit of fome of the moft eminent druidt, or other ancient Britont, who died here fighting foe their libertiet againft the Romant. In thit ifland are feveral monumenti, called Crom- lechei, confiding of three, four, or more rude ftonet, pitched upon one end, and ferving for pillart or fup- portera to a vaft ftone of fcvcral lona weight, laid over them tranfyerfely, in the manner of thofe men- tioned among the antiquitica of Cornwall. Thofe are generally believed to be fepulchral monumenti, though fome fuppofe them to have been creAed in confirmation of political treatici. Anglefea baa no manufaAure, but fendt to parlia- ment two membert, one for the county, and the other for the borough of Beaumarit. Walet it the country to which the Britooi fled for refuge, when thit ifland wai invaded by the Saxont. It appeari to hare been anciently governed by a number of petty independent princet : but about the year 870, we find the whole country under the dominion of one fovereign, named Roderic, who divided hit dominioni among his three font ; a mea- fure which in time proved fatal to the independency of Walet. In 1 237* >^ old and infirm prince Llewellin, to •btain fafety from the pctfecution of hit undutiful fon GrilTyn, put himfclf under the protcaion of Henry the third of England, to whom, with the view of faciliiaiing hit purpofe, be agreed lo perform homige. Thit conrefflon wat afierwardt ufcd by Edward I, at a total renunciation of the libertiet of Wilet to ih« EngliOi crown : and young Llewellin, fon of the former prince, difdeining the termt to which hit ftihcr had fubmliied, Edward raifcd a numcrout army, with which penetrating the county of Klim and liking poflcdion of the iOe of Anglefea, he drove the Welch to (he mountaini of Snowdon, and in. pofcd upon (hem a tribute. Llewellin, liowever, continued lo exert hit vtmoft eflfortt for fupporting the independency of hit country 1 but in laSj, waa killed in ba(tle. He wat fucceedcd by hit brother David, the laft independent prince of Walet, who being treacberoufly furiendered to Edward, wat put to dri(h by hit order. Ever fince thit time, Walea bat been annexed to the crown of England, and haa given (he title of prince to the eldeft font of the kingi of England i but it did not fend meotbcra ta parliament till the reign of Henry VIII. Soma yeart ago the land-tax of Walet praduccd about forty-four thoufand poundi a yt^^ and the crown bu a certain fliarc in the pndu& of the fiJvcr and lead minet { but the annual revenue accruing to the prince of Walet from hit principality, it (aid not to exceed eight thoufand poundi. Several circuiu are appointed for the admini(lrctmi of jttfticc in thit country, under ita own peculiar judget. The language of the Welch it a dialed of the Celtic : but the Englifb it likewife gcncially known, except by the common people. CHAP. XVI. 7ht IJhndt M th Ctaft 1/ Eiigkad, ISLE of WIGHT. TH E Ifle of Wight lies upon the coaft of Hamp,; fltire, from which it it feparated by a fmall arm of the fea, called anciently the Solent, which is in fome placet twelve, in others feven, but in moft about four milet broad, except at the Strait between Sharpnor and Hurft Caftles, where it is not quite two. This ifland is in length from eaft to weft about twenty-three iniles, and in breadth twelve. Sunding high above the level of the fea, it is in moft placet naturally fortified with fleep cliffs ; and a ridge of hills extends from the eaftern towuds the ureftent extremity. The country on the fouth fide it ex- tremely fertile, producing vaft quantitiet of excel- lent corn. The middle and mountainous part of thit ifland has fome wood, and abundance of fine graft, which feeds a vaft number of fheep, the fleece of which is reckoned not inferior to any in Britain, except thofe of Cotfwould and Lempfter. Cattle, fowl, and fiOi, are equally good, and in great plenty. The air here is mild and healthful, except towarda the eaftern extremity, where agues are very common. Thia. '.tinort. Brituh Tilandi.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 48; Thii iflind U tatrtmcly wdl-wiiertd with fpringi, brooki, and rivari. On ib« north-eaft fide of ii ii the fioiouf road of St. Htl(n'i| where the Oiorc ii . mrd into a bajr. About iht middle of the ifltnd, on Ilia north-fide, where the river Covirei falli into the fee, ii another opening which affbrdi a harbour, defended formerly by two (Irong caftlei called the Eaft and Weft Cowei, of which only the latter ii now ftanding. About four milci up thii river ftandi Newport, the capital of the ifland, containing at prefeni between three and four thoufand inhabitanta, It it a neat town, built with flone, and vcfTfli of a fmall burden come up to it. About a mile hence (landi Cirrfbrook caftle, upon a high rock. Weft- ward of Newport haven lies that of Newton, where wu formerly a good town, though now inconfider- able. Farther weftward liei the caftle and town of South Yarmouth, where the i'ea enierin-; ihe land, penetratea within a mile of the fouth coaft. Thia ifland ii included in Hampfhire. The Ifle of Wight wai not fubdued by the Ro- man!, till the reign of the emperor Claudiui, when Vefpafian reduced it. It ii faid to have revolted after thia period, and to hare been again reduced by the emperor Hadrian. The next that conquered it waa Cerdic, king of tha Weft Saiona. Thia prince bcflowcd it on bit two nephewa, Sieufo and Wiktgar, who peopled it with Jutei. It waa afterwarda feiied by Wolphcr, king of the Merciana, by whom it waa conferred on hiagodfon Edelwach, king of the South- Saxona, in expedation that he fliould convert the in- kabitanla to Cbriftianity, which, however, he wat not able to cffeA. Cedwall, the great monarch of the W«ft-Saxont, next reduced thia ifland i and waa on the point of exterminating the inhabitanta, had be not been rcftrained by the intreatiea of Wifrid, who had been biAop of York, and wai then of Sel- fey, to whom he gave one fourth part of the con- ^ueft. Tofti, the brother, but inveterate enemy of king Harold, in the (hert reign of thia prince, plun- dered the ifle with a piratical fquadron. Under William the Norman, Fiixofbornc, ewl- matihal and earl of Hertford, conquered it, and wu fiyled lord of the Ifle of Wight. Hit Ton having forfeited for treafon, Henry I. granted it to Ricardua de Ri- puiia, Redveara, or Rivera) and, in fucceeding limei, king John rer'.od thither to avoid the buona. In the reign of Edward I. Ifabella de Fortibut, wi- dow of the earl of Albemarle, and he.iefa of the family of Rivera, earla of the Ifle of Wight, fold or exchanged it, though very unwillingly,wiih the crown. Edward II. granted Careft)roob-Caftle, with all the landa he pofiefled in the ifland, which were then of the value of three thoufand raarka a year, to Fiera Gavefton and Margaret hia wife,, and to tbeir keira. But upon the deceafe of Gavefton it returned to the crown. Richard II. however, granted the ifland to Edward earl of Rutland, whan he afterward! created duke of Albemarle { but the latter being flain at the battle of Agincourt, the grant vefled in bia widow Pbilippa, after whofe death it probably re- verted to the crown i for Honry VI. alienucd the ifland in favour of Henry «le Hrauchamp, whom he created duke of Warwick, and afterwardi, with hia own handi, crowned him king of the Iflu of Wight 1 but dying without heirt, thia title became > • InA. The Oime monarch granted ii to Henry Ueauti <, (on to Edmund duke of Somerfet, in whom tikewife, dy- ing without iflue, the title again became extindl. Edward IV. granted the title of lord of the Ifle of Wight to Anthony Woodville, lord .Scalei, afterwarda earl Riven, who died on a fcaffolif it PoniefraA, without iflue. The lorda of the Ifle of '"ight were frequently in different circumftancca. Some held it In fee, otbtra in tail, and othera for life only. When it waa in the crown, the perfon prcfiding there had Ihe title of conftable, the cultody ofCarclbrook, and the pro- fila thence arifing, which were very confiderable 1 but Ihe reft of the manori belonging to the lord- fliip, of which he waa only fteward, were accounted for in the exchequer. At all limea the king :■>. ceived the fame aida from thia ifland ai from the reft of HampAire 1 and the inhabitanta were ame- nable to the king'a jufticea when they came into that county, and incurred a penalty if they did not attend. Thia ifland it under the direflion of a gover- nor. It containa thirty-fix patiflt-cburchei, and fe- good towns, of which the principal, New- fenda two membera to parliament. veral port. R E Y. Jerfey ia fituated in the Englifli channel, twenty* five league! fouih from Portland in DorfetOiire, and five league! weft from Cape Carteret in Normandy. It i! of an oblong figure, meafuring twelve milea from weft to eaft, and fix from north to fouih. On the fouth it ia almoft level with the fea, but rifea to- ward! the north, where the cliffa on the coaft aro between forty and fifty fathom in height. The country ia beautifully diverfified with little hills, warm vallies, and towards the Tea, with pleafant plains. The climate is pleafant and healthy. In fome placei the foil is gravelly, and in othera fandy j but the greater part is deep rich mould. It abounds with fpringi, rills, and rivulets, fo that therti are between thirty and forty corn-milla driven by water, befides feven fulling-milU, and a number of wind-mills. The pafture ia fo fweet that no country in Europe can boaft of richer milk, or finer butter. Here ia grain of all kindi, particularly a fort of wheat called fro- ment-tremaie, from in being fown the latter end of May, and reaped in the beginning ot Auguft. But what chiefly diftinguiihe! this ifland at prefent is its orchards, which are well fenced, regularly plant- ed, and yiel(i, for the moft part, immenfe quanti- ties of fruit. On the fouth of tbia ifland is a bay almoft three milea in extent { in the eaft corner of which Qands the town of St. Hellier, finely fitu- ated. The ftreeti are open and well-built, with a handfome fquare ip the centre, The inhabitanta ace 4S8 A. HE MODE N [Europe. ire computed at about two tfaoufand. The principal haven, however, is in the weft corner of the bay, and if called St. Aubin't. This town is about half the fise of St^ Hellier, chiefly occupied by merchants and maftera of (hips. Moft of the buildings being n''rf, the :owr malces a neat and elegant figure A little to the vaftward, upon a rock in the fea, ftanJs the f^rt of St. Aubin ; to which the inha- bitints having joined a flrong well-built pici, their 'lavcn is now equally fecured againft the fury of the winds, and the infults of an enemy. Within the pier, a fixth rate juft floats at a neap *ide, and a veflel of two hundred tons at all times ; but fhips of greater fize muft He without, in the road, where there is good anchoring. Befides thefe, there are fe- veral other havens of lefs note ; as St. Brelade's Bay, at the back of St. Aubin's { the Bay of St. Owen, which extends along the greater part of the weft fide of the ifland ; with the havens of Greve de Lccq, and St. John. On the eaft is the bay of St. Ka- tharine, and the harbour of Rofel ; to ihe fouth of which, on < rock, Aands the famous Mount Orgueil CaRIe, forinerly Caftle-Gourray, once the glory of this ifliud, and ftill maje{iic, though in decay. To the fouth-weft lies the Haven de la Chauflee ; and. a little eaftward of St. Aubin's, the Port de Pas. All tbeff are covered with breaft-works,- well defended by can.-.oi. It is computed, that, in a good year, the in- habitants of this ifland make between twenty and thirty thoufaod hogLeads of cyder. Their great ma- nufaflure is the working up of their wool, befides the quantity of four thoufand tods which they are per- mited .0 import from England. It has been faid that ten thoufand pairs of ftockings, of all forts and fizes, arc brought weekly to the market of St. Hellier. The inhabitants fend annually thirty ftout (hips to the Newfoundland iilhery j and in times of peace great quantities of tobacco are fmuggled thence into France, The militarv eftablifbment of the iflanH gi t.*rally confifts of two troops of horfe, five regiments of infantry, a.id a fine train of artillery, exd-.iive of what IS in the feveral caftles, and on ;n>: redouutr and brcaft works upon the coan-. There a - always regular troops in Ellzabeth-Callle, and in Fort St. A"liin; '.id in time of war, they have comnio ily a body of fo'ces from England. The whole num- ber of inhabitants is computed at about twenty-five thoufand. The aflfairs of this i.land are fuperintended by a governor who is nominated by 'he king } and its ilaws are different from thofe of England. Appeals, however, lie from the judicatures of the ifland to the king in council. The lands and eftates defcend in gavelkind. The inhabitants do not eftimate their rents by money, but by quarters of wheat. Their ports were formerly eileemed neutral, even in time of war j a ^.ircumflance which gave them great advantage in point of trade ; but their zeal for the Britifl) intereft having prompted them to fit out pri- vateers, this Angular privilege has been loft, and con- fequently the advantage which irofe from it. No Pieep or lamb can be exported from this ifland into foreign countries, nor any India goods imparled, but under very fevere penalties, except from England. All goods and manufaAures of the ifland, however, may be imported into England duty-free, unlefs fuch as are excifeable. Ships built her: are within the navigation aft, and may, if regiftered, trade to the plantations. Duties upon foreign fait are drawn back, if exported into this ifland ; but fait made in it, and imported to Britain, pays duty as if it were foreign fait. GUERNSEY. Guernfey is fituated twenty 'tagues fouth-weft of Wcvmouth in Dorfetfhire, between eight and nine lr4gues weft of the coaft of Normandy, and fcven north. weft from Jerfey. Its length from north-eaft to fouth-weft is about twelve miles, and its breadth nine. The climate is niild and healthy, not fabjc(£t to exceflive heats, much lefs to fevere cold, but is fomewhat expofed to winds. This ifland hangs in a declination oppofite to that of Jerfey, being low and fiat on the north-fide, and rifing gradually towards the fouth, where the cliff's are of a prodigious height. The face of the country is variegated with eminences, and tolerably well- watered. Here was formerly a fine tak;, about half a league in extent, now filled up, and turned into a meadow i but many gentle^ men have ftill very beautiful and convenient filh- ponds. The foil in general is rich, and afl^ords va- riety of produce, which is the fame as in Jerfey. Here was formerly a fingular breed of fheep, of which the ewes had four horns, and the rams fix ; but thefe are now become very fcarce. In this, no lefs than in the forementioned ifland, black cattle are in fuch abundance as not only to fupply the inhabitants, but to furnifli a confiderable exportation. To all its nu> merous advantages may be added that of being free from all venemous creatures. In this ifland are ten purifhes, each of which is di. vided into feveral vintons, for the more eafy manage- ment of affairs. Though the country is fully peopled, there is, properly fpeaking, but one town in the ifland ; and this ii likevife the only haven of any refort. I'he tov n of St. Peter is feated on the eaft-fide of the ifland, upon a capaciuus bay, and confifts of about eight hundred houfcs. This h:^rbour is called Port St. Pierre, or Port de la Chauflee. Ships pafs into it from a good road, direftly under the guns of the caftle, and moor dole to the town. The piers are compofed of vaft ftones, piled up to the height of thirty-five foot. The principal manufadlure here, as in Jerfey, ia that of wool, of V iiicn 'hey are allowed to import annually, two thoufand tods from England ; and this they work ap chiefly in ftockings, waiftcoats and breeches, Our French and Portugal merchants have large ftocks of wine here, which they import thence as they have occafion. By depofiting th;ir wine in this iiland, they are enabled to keep it ttt 1 a proper Europe. it. No iOand int'> purled, but England, however, unlefs fuch within the fade to the rawn back, ill it, and rre foreign BKlflSU IsLANOc] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 4«^ a proper age, before they pay the duty, and can there- fore afford both to buy and fell it at a cheaper rate. By a moderate computation, the inhabitant! of thii ifland, at prcfent, amount to upwards of fifteen thou- fand foulf. The feveral idets, and vaft chaini of rocks that furrouni this country on every fide, and caufe fo f'.'iit a variety of tides and currents, add much to the fecurity of the place, by rendering the naviga- tion equally difHcult and dangerous for fliips, unlefs they have pilots on board extremely well acquainted with the coaft. On the fouth-fide, as has been ob- ferved, the cliffs are prodigioufly high ; on the weft fide lie the Hanoys, which cover that coaft fo rffec- tually that a delcent there is little to be feared. At the north-weft extremity lies a little ifland called the Howe, and at the north-eaft extremity we meet wi^^ St. Michael in the Vale, a peninfula fome miles in extent, connedled with Guernfey by a very narrow ifthmus. South-eaft from the Vale is fituated the ifle of Harmet, or Arne, about a league in compafs, for- merly defert but now cultivated. About a league to the fouthward of this lies Briclcoe, of lefs extent ; and between (hem the little ifland of Gythan, or Jetbau, which ferves the governor for a kind of park, or rather paddock. ALDERNEY. Alderney is fituated about five leagues north- weft from Guernfey, and nine leagues north from Jerfey. It fifes high out of the fea, and, like the reft, is in a manner entirely furrounded with rocks, it is be- tween four and five miles in length, and in fome places one, in others two in breadth. The climate is tempeta'e and agreeable, and the foil exceeding fertile both ir. corn and grafs. The ifland is well- flocked with cattle, (heep, fowl, and borfes. The in- kahitant* amount nearly to fifteen hundred, and many of theui live in the centre of the ifland, at a place called La Ville, i. e. the tovn, where they have a good church. The purt called la Crabbie is on the fouth-fide, ftcured by a rough ftonc pier, and is ca- pable of admitting only fmall vefiels. The people of this ifland are allowed to import four hundred tods of wool annually from England, befides what they raife of their own, which they manufa£lure and fell in Guernfey. S A K Sarke lies two leagues eaft from Guernfey, fix weft from Cape Rofel in Normandy, three leagues north- ward of Jerfey. It is of an oval for.n, having a fmaller ifland annexed to it by a narrow ifthmus. They are not together, above three miles in length, and the largeft very little more than one in breadth. This ifland likewife lifes high above the fea, and fecmi as if regularly fortified by a rampart of fieep impenetrable cliff's, having only one accefs, which, however, is eafy and commodious. In point of cli- mate, this ifland yields not to any of the reft, and it No. 41. i* alfo extremely fertile both in corn an, graft. The number of inhabitants are about five hundred, who are allowed to import from Britain two hundred todt of wool. This ifland, with that of Alderney, ii in* eluded in the government of Guer:ifey, The iflands of Jerfey, Guernfey, Alderney, Sarke, and their adjacent iflets, making part of ancient Gaul, fell under the dominion of the Romans; and upon the conqu;fts made by the Franks, this became a por- tion of what was called Weft France, or Neuftria. In the beginning of the tenth century, Charles the Sim* pie, to fave the reft of his dominions from the ra- vages of the Romans, ere£led, in favour of their cap. tain, Rollo, the duchy of Normandy, to which thefe iflands were annexed. His defcendant, William, having acquired the kingdom of England in the tenth century, enjoyed it with his duchy and its depend* encies ; but though Normandy was afterwards re- linquiihed to France, thofe valuable iflands have ever fince been retained by the Englifh crown. THE SCILLY ISLANDS. The Scilly Iflands are a clufler of iflands and rocks, fituated in the Atlantic Ocean, about feventeen leaguei due weft from the Lizard. Five of them%re inhabited, exdufive of Samfon, in which there is only one fa- mily. The largeft of thefe is St. Mary't , which lies in forty-nine degrees fifty-five minutes of north lati* tude, and in the longitude of fix degrees, forty mi- nutes weft from Greenwich. It is two miles and a half in length, and about one and a half in breadth. On the weft fide is an ifthmus, and beyond it a pen- infula, very high, upon which ftands Star-Caftle^ with fome outworks and batteries. Here are upwards of tareefcore pieces of cannon mounted, and a garri- fon of an entire company, with a mafter gunner and fix others. In the magaxine are arms for three hun- dred iflanders, who are bound to march into the fortrefs, when fummoned. Below the caftle ftands Hugh -Town, and a mile within land, Church-Town, fo denominated from their place of worfliip. It confifls only of a few houfes, with a court-houfe. About two furlongs eaftward ii;? Old-Town, where is a greater number of houfes, and thofe more co.ive- nient. The inhabitants of this ifland amount to about fix or feven hundred ; and it produces to thk proprietor three hundred pounds a year. Trefcaw lies north of St. Mary's, at the diftance of two mile;. It was formerly called Nicholas's Ifland, and was at leaft as large as St, Mary's, though at pre- fent no more than half its fise. Here are the re- mains of an abbey, with a fine bafon of frefli-water before it, half a mile long and a furlong wide, which is feparated from the fea by a high bank. Here are about a dozen of houfes, with a church, which are called Dolphin Town, and defended by a block- houfe lately built. This ifland is particularly noted for producing plenty of the fineft fampbire ; and here are the only tin-works vifible at prefent in thofe iflands. It contains about forty families, which are very ir a confi<<'-rabie merchant, en- gaged fome people to fettle here. He lilcewife caufed to be erefied a hollow tower, twenty foot high, \ ith a fpire of equal altitude, which fervet as a marie fot diie£iing (hips eroding the channel, or coming into Scilly. St. Martin's produces fome corn, and affords the bcft pafture in thofe ifland*. The inha- bitants coniift of feventeen families, who pretend to have the fecret of burning the beft kelp, and are ex- tremely attached to their own ifland. St. Agnes, called alfo the Light-houfe Ifland, lies near three miles fouth-weft of St. Mary's, and, though very fmall, is exceeding fruitful in corn and ^rafs ; but is not well fupplied with good water. The prin- cipal ornament, as well as the fupport of the ifland, is the light houlb, which ftands on the moft ele- vated ground. It is built with ftone from the foun- dation to th#lanthern, which (lands at the height of iifty-one foot : the height of &'. gallery is four foot, the fafll-lightis eleven foot and a half high, and thret foot two inches wide ; of thefe there are fixteen. The Boor of the 1 .nthcrn is of brick, upon which ftands a fubftantial ircn gate, fquare, baned on every fide, with one great chimney in the canopy roof, befides fmaller ones to let out the fmoak ; and a large pair of froith's bellows is fo fixed, as to be eafily ufed when there is occafion. I'he keeper of the light- boufe has a falary from the Trinity-houfe at Deptford, of forty pounds a year, with a dwelling-houfe, and ground for a garden ; and he is allowed an afliftant, who has twenty pounds a year. It is fupplied by an annual fhip with coals, the carriage of which from the fea-fide is a confiderable bencf t to the poor in- habitants. Here is a neat little church built by the Godolphin family. At prefent, there are in the ifland fifty families, which yield the proprietor forty pounds a year. Brehar, or Bryar Ifland, lies north-weft of St. Mary's, and weft ward of Trefcaw, to 'vhich, whei the fea is very low, people fomctimes pafs thence over the fand. This ifland, which is moi itainous, abrums with fea and land fow''s, excellent faraphire, and a jreat variety of medicinal herbs. The inha- bitants, who cdnfift of thirteen families, have a good church, and pay thirty pounds a year to the proprietor Southward of the preceding, and weftward of Tref caw, lies the ifland of Samfon, containing only one family, which fubfifts by the making of kelp. To the weftward of thefs lie four iflands, which contain, in the whole, three hundred and fixty acresi of meadow and arable land. The Ealtern Ifles, fo deno'v'nated from their fituation in refpe£l of St Mary's, contain one hundred and twenty- three acres ilerules feven other rocky iflands, that have each a 2 little land for fome ufe, there are innumerable rock* on every fide, among which muft be reckoned Scilly, at prefeni nothing more than a large, ill fliaped, craggy, inacceflible ifland, lyinj; the fartheft north- weft ol i!l the clufter, and canfequently the nearcft to the cuiitinent. The air of thofe iflands is ecually pure and tempe- ate ; and their winters arc 'eldom fubjeft to froft cr fnow. When the former happens, it proves of fliort duration ; and the latter never lies upon the ground. The heat of their fummer is much abated by the ft.^ brceECS. Fogs indeed are frequent, but they are not unwholefome. Agues rarely api>ear among the inhabitants, and fevers yet more feldom. The moft fatal diftemper is the fmall- pox. I'empe- rate people here are remarkably free from difeafes, and commonly live to a great age. The foil of the iflands is very good, and produces abundance of grain of all forts, except wheat, of which they had anci- ently great plenty. They ftill grow a little, but the bread made of it is unpleafant. P'or this purpofe, therefore, they chiefly ufe barley, of which they hava more than fuffices for their own confumption. Po- tatoes have been lately introduced, and they thrive tc fuch a degree, that in fome places there are two crops of them in a year. Roots of all forts, pulfe, and fallads grow well, as likewife dwarf fruit-trees, goofeberries, currants, an>l rafpberries ; but at prefent there are no timber trees, though they anciently grew in thefe iflands. Here is wild fowl o< all forts, from the fwan to the fnipe ; with a particular kind called the hedge-chicken, which is not inferior to the or* tolan. Tame fowl, puffins, and rabbits, are in great numbers. The black cattle are generally fmall^ but their flefli is well tafted, though they feed upoa ore weed. The horfes are alfo little, but ftrong and lively. Here are large flocks of fine flieep, the wool of which is good, and their flefli excellent. Thefe iflands are remarkable for producing no vctiemout creatures. We now pafs to the fea, which is of more confer queitce to thofe iflands than the fmall portion of la«4 ihst is diftributed among them. St. Mary's hubow Is very fafe and capacious, having that ifland on the fouth, the Eaftern iflands, with that of St. Mania on the eaft, Trefcaw, Brehar, and Samfon to the north, and St. Agnes, with feveral fmall iflands, to the wvft. Ships ride here in three to five fathom water, with good anchorage. This harbour has four inlets, viz. Broad Sound, Smiths Sound, St. Mary's Sound, and Crow Sound ; fo that hardly any wind can blow with which a fhip of a hundred and fifty tons can- not fafely fail through one or other of them. Crow Sound only excepted, where they cannot pafs at low water ; but at high there is from fixteen to twenty* four foot in this paflage. Befides thefe there are two other harbours, one called New Grynfey, which lie* between Brahar and Trefcaw, where fhipi of three hundred tons may ride fccurely. The other is called Old Grynfey, and lies between Trefcaw, St. Helen's, and Theon, for fmaller (hips. The former is guarded by the batteries of Oliver's Caftle, the latter by the block- British Islands.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. m lerable rocks oned Scilly, ill Ditpedf rthcft norih- Y the nearcft block-houfc called Dover, on the eaftern fide of Tref- caw. Small coafters bound to the northward, have more convenient outlet! from thefe little harbours than from St. Mary'g, where at the weft end of Hugh- Town there is a fine pier, built by th: prefent earl of Godolphin, four hundred and thirty foot long, twenty broad in the narroweft part, and twenty-three foot in height, wiih fixteen foot of water at a Ipring, and ten at a neap tide, fo '.hat under the (helter of this pier, vcfll-ls of a hundred and fifty tons may lie fecurely, not only clofe to the quay, but all along the fVrand of the town. In this harbour, and in all the little coves of the feveral iflcs, prodigious quantities of mackarel may be caught in their feafon ; with foal, turbot, and plaife, liog, &c. reniarlcably good in their kind. The inhabitants of the Scilly Iflands are in general robuft, handfonie, indullrj(>'js, and good-natured. They are bred from their infancy to the management of their boats, in which they excel : they are good iiflierinen and excellent pilots. I'heir women fpin wool, which they weave into coarfe cloth, and knit Hoc Icings. Though they have no timber of their own growth, and not much from England, yet here are many joiners and cabinet-makers, who, out of the fine woods which they obtain from captains of fhip!> who put in here, make all kinds of houfhold furniture in > very neat manner. The inhabitants are free from the land-tax, malt-tax, and excife. The fmall quan- tity of fifh which they cure, and the provifions they furnifh to fliips that refort thither in their pafTage, con - fiitutes the befl part of their trade, if we except their kelp, which has been a growing manufaiElure :fom the end of the laft century, and produces at prefen: about five hundred pounds a year. Theearl of Godolphin is flyled pioprietorof Scilly, in virtue of letters patent, dated the 25th of July, 1698, for the term of eighty-nine years, to be com- puted from the expiration of a term of fifty years, granted to Francis Godolphin, Efq. by king Charles I. that is, from the year 1709, to 1798, when this leafe determines. In virtue of this royal grant, his lordfLip is the fole owner of all lands, houfes, and tenemei.ts, claim: all the tythes, not only of the fruits of the earth, but of iifh taken at fea, and landed upon thofe premifes ; with harbour-duties paid by (hips, and one moiety of the wrecks, the other belonging to the admiralty. There is only one eccle- fiailical perfon upon the illands, who rrfides at St. Mary's, and vifits the other inhabited iflands once a year. But divine fervice is performed, and fermons preached, or rather read, every Sunday in the churches of thofe iflands, by an honed layman a lointed for that purpofe.i and there are likewifo chur;'u*wardens and ovcrfecrs regularly chofen ir> every parifh. In Kfpe£t of the civil government it is adminiftered by what is called the Court of Twelve ; in which the proprietors agent and chaplain have thei: feats in vir tue of their offices ; the other nine are chofen by the people, Thefe decide, or rather compromife all dif- ferences i and punifh fmall ofFcnces by fines, whip- pings, and the ducking-flool. There ii no prifon in the iflands, but in cafe of capital offences, which are exceeding rare, the criminals may be tranfported, and brought to juftice in the county of Cornwall. The great importance of thofe iflands arifes from their advantageous fituation, as looking equally into St, George's Cham I, which divides Great Britaia from Ireland, and tiiL- Englifh Channel, which fepa> rates Britain from France. For this reafon, mofl fhipj bound from the fouthward endeavour to make thu Scilly Iflands, in order to llcer their courfe with greater certainty. It ;. alfo very convenient for vefTtls to take fhelter among them, which prevents their being driven to Milford-Haven, nay, occafionally into fome port in Ireland, if the wind be ftrong at eafl } or, if it blow hard at north-welf, from being forced into fome of the Cornifh harbours, or even on the French coafts. The intercourfo between the two channels abovemcntioned, is another reafon why fliips come in here, as choofing rather to wait in fafety for a wind, than to run the hazard of being blown out of their courfe. A flrong gale at eafl:, therefore, feldom fails of bringing thirty or forty veflels, and frequently a larger number, into Scilly. Ships homeward bound from America often touch here, from the deflre of making the firft land in their power, and for the fake of refrefhment. Some or other of thefe reafons hare an influence on foreign (hips, as well as our own, and afford the natives opportunity of (hewing their admirable addrefs, in conducting them fa^ely into St. Mary's harbour, and when the wind fei s, through their founds. Upon firing a gun, aiij making a waft, a boat immediately puts off from the nearefl ifland, with feveral pilots on board ; and having with amazing activity dropped one of them into every (hip, till only two men ..re left in the boat, thefe retura to land, as the wind and other circumftances dire£t, ill one of their little coves. In time of war, the im- portance of thefe iflands is yet more confpicuous. The Scilly Iflands were anciently called CafSteri. des, or the Tin If)e<>, from their being rich in that metal ; and the Phoe:. cians carried on a traffic with them at a very remote period. The Romans were ex- ceedingly dcfirous of having a (hare in this commerce, which they at length obtained ; and in proccfs of time thefe iflands became fubjefl to their power. In the Itinerary of Antoninus, we find them called Sig- deles ; by Sulpitius, Sillinxj and by Solinus they are termed Silures. All we know of them during this period is, their tin trade continued, and that fome- times {late prifoners were exiled thither, as well as to other iflands. When the legions were withdr.iwn, and Britain with its dependencies left in the power nf the natives, thofe iflands doubtlefs (harcd the fame fate with the reft. As to the appellation which henceforward prevailed, the common way of writ- ing it is Scilly ; but we are told that the old Britifh name was Sulek, or Syllek, which fignifics rocks con- fecratcd to the fun. No mention is made of any thing concerning them from the fifth to th": tenth century. It is however conjcflured, with much ap. pearancc of truth, that fome time within this (pace they «w« T H M E N (Europe. Briti they were in ■ ^mt meafure deilroyed by an earth- I upor, the ground. At fome feafons, however, hi;jh quitke, attended with a finking of their elevation, by w.nds are ul'ual, and at other;, mifts i but the latter. which moft of the lowlands containing thofe rich mines of tin, which had rendered them fo fnmo'is, were covered by the fea. A tradition prevnil* in Cornwall, that a very extenfive trii\ of coun:ry, called the Lioneft, in the old Cornifti, Lethoufow, fuppofed to lie bei'veen that country and Scilly, vas loft in this manner t i>nd there are many concurring circumftancet which rcnd'^r this probable. In rega d to tbefe iilands the cafe is I'Vill flronger, for at Ijw ebbs, ftone inclofuii;s are ftill vifible from almost all the ifles. It is generally fuppcfed, that kme Athelf^^n, after having overcome a very powerful confederacy formed •gainll him, and having reduced Kxeter, and driven the Britons beyond the river Tamar, which he madi- the boundary of their Cornifli dominions, pafled over into thefe iflands, ihen furely in a better ftate than at prefent, or they would not have been the objeds of his vengeance, and reduced them likewile. Some are of opinion, that either at this time, or a little later, they were given to the abbey of Taviftock, of which, however, there is no certain evidence. .Hif- tory does not inform us that the Danes ever fixed in thefe iflands ; ' ut as their method of fortifying is very well known. It is conjefiured that the Giant's-cafiie in the ifle of St. Mary's was eredted by them ; and if we confider the convenient fituation of the iflands, and the trade of piracy which that nation carried on, there fcems nothing improbable in this conjcdure. It is more certain that churches was cre£led in thefe ifles, and that there were in them alfo monks and her- mits, before the Conqueli. VVe have unquellionable evidence that thofe ifles were foon afterwards granted to the Benedictine monaftery of Taviftock, and that they had a cell there dedicated to St. Nicholas. But notwithftanding this, and other fubfequent grants, in confequence of which the monks of Taviftock were ilyled lords of Scilly, our kings fent thither gover- nors, granted lands, and had fortrefibs in them ; fo that here were eftates at all times, independent of the abbey of Taviftock, or the cell of St. Nicholas in Scilly. ISLE OF MAN. The Ifle of Man is fituated about feven leagues north from Angleiea, an equal diftance weft from Lancafliire, nearly the fame fuuth eaft from Galloway in Scotland, and nine leagues eaft trom Ireland. It is in length about thirty miles, and in breadth from nine to five; but in moft places eight. The moft confiderabie ftreams here are the Neb, and th« Clanmay : the former of thefe, rifing in the fouthern part of this Ifland, runs north -weft, and falls into the fca at Peel ; the latter runs nearly parallel. The air is (harp, as may be expe£led from the northern fituation, and the opennefs of the country ; but the winters are not fevere. Frofts are not fre- quent, or of great continuance, nor does fnow lie long though a little oflfenfive, are found not to be unwhol:- fome. The foil towards the north is drv and fuiulj-, but not unimproveable. The mountaii:s, which in. elude near two thirds of this ifland, are bleak and barren j but befides good peat for fuel, they afford feveral kinds of metal, and maintain a peculiar breed of fwine, called purrs, which are eftcemed excelk'iit pork. In the valleys there is as good pafture, hay, and corn, as in any of the northern counties ; and in refpedt of the fouthern part of this ifland, it .6 extremely fertile. Some of the mountains, are remark- ably high, fuch -^Jthe two Barrowls, and Siteyall, but particularly Sri afcl, Swealicid, or Siiawlcldt, (rom the fummit of which may be plainly difi-erned the coafls of England, Scotland, Ireland, and Wa!i.-s. The black cattle of this ifland are generally left than thofe of England. Here are, however, fome good draught and faddle-horfrs : in the mountains is a breed of fmall horfes little more than three foot high. A fmall breed of fwine has already been men- tioned i and there is alio one of ftieep, which run wild upon the mountains. They are accounted ex- csllent meat, and feveral of them diftinguiflied by the name of loughton, are remarkable for very fine wool, i,f a bufF colour. The inhabitants are well fupplled with fifh, particularly herrings, which are the ftaple commodity of the iflandf of which there is fo confw derable a filhery, that more than twenty thoufand barrels have frequently been exported in a year to France an'd othe^ countries. No coal mines-have hitherto been difcovcred upon this ifland ; but here is plenty of peat for fuel ; good quarries of black-mar- ble, and other ftones for building -, with mines of lead, copper, and iron ; which, though at prefent neglcdied, have been formerly wrought to great advantage. The principal manufa£lures of this ifland are linen and woollen cloths, in which a confiderabie foreign trade is carried on ; but the greater part of the traf- fie has long confifted in fmuggling, for which the fitu« atiun of the ifland renders it particularly commodious. Foreign veflTels landing here their goods, the cuftom has been to export the latter in prodigious quantities. In barks and boats, into Wales, England, Scotland, and Ireland, to the immenfe detriment of the revenue, and of the fair trader. This ifland Is the fee of a bifhop, and lies in the province of York. It contains feventeen pariflies, and four market-towns ; the latter of which are Caftle-town, Doughs, Peel, and Ramfay. Caftle-town, called alfo Caftle-Ruflin, ftands on the fouthern coaft of the ifland, near Derby-haven, a fine harbour, at the mouth of which is a ftrung fort. The houfes in this town are the moft regular of any in the ifland. The caftle, which is built of marble, is furrounded with two broad walls and a moat, over which is a draw-bridge. In this cadle the courts of juftice are held | and within the walls is a fmall tower where ftate prifoners were formerly confined. British Islanoi.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 493 confined. On a fpot of ground adjoining ftandi the governor's houre, which ii a commodioui and fpa cioui ftruAure, with a fine chapel, and feveral offices. Douglas is fituated on '.he eaftern coaft, and it by much the mod populous and richeft place in the ifland, the harbour being one of the bed in the Britifh dominions. Abou* half a mile hence are yet (landing fame noble remkins of a magnificent nunnery, in which are feveral fine roouuments, with fragments of in- fcriptions. One of ihofe ii.fcriptions is as follows : lUuJlriJJma Matilda JUia • k,£. Mircia. — —This Matilda is fuppofed to have been the daughter of Ethelbert, one of the Saxon kings of Mercia, who is related by hiftoriani to have died a reclufe. On another monument is the following imperfefl infcrip- tion : CartifmunJa vlrg» immatulata—K, D. 1230. It is conje£lured that this tomb was ereAed to the memory of Cartefmunda, the beautiful nun of Win- cbefler, who fled from the violence threatened her by king John, and who, it is probable, from this infcription, took refuge in the monailery of Douglas, where fhe was buried. Peel is fituated on the weft coaft, and being alfo a place of confiderable trade, here are feveral good houfes. Upon a fmall ifland, clofe to the town, is an ancient caftle, called Peel-Caftle, one of the flrongeft by its fituation of any in the world. The ifland upon which it ftands, is a huge rock of a ftu- pendous height above the level of the fea, inacceffible from all quarters but the town, from which it is feparated by a fmall ftrait, fordable at low water. The afcent to the caftle conftfts of near a hundred fteps. It is guarded by three walls of immenfe thicknefs, planted with cannon : on the outfide of the exterior wall are four watch-towers ; and within the interior wall, round the caftle, are the remains of four churches, three of which are fo decayed, that little remains of them but the walls, with a few tombs, which feem to hav; been ereded with more than ordinary care. The fourth ::hurch, which is the cathedral of the ifland, and dedicated to St. Germain, the firft biftiop of Man, is kept in fome better repair. Appropriated to the ufe of the bifhop, within it is a chapel, under which is a horrible prifon, or dungeon, for fuch of- fenders as are confined in virtue of a fentenc* of the ecclefiaftical courts, I'bis caftle is celebrated, no lefs on account of its fituation, than of its own mag- nificence. The largenefs and loftinefs of the apart- ments, the fine echoes rcfounding through them, the many winding galleries, the profpefl of the fea, and the fhips, which, by reafon of the vaft height, appear like buoys floating on the waves, are faid to fill the mind of the fpedtator with pleafure and aftonifhment. The ancient churches round this caftle are fup- pofed to have been originally pagan temples % and in one of them ftands a large ftone, in the manner and form of a tripos. Upon feveral of the tombs in thefe churches, are fragments of letters ftill intelligible, and leave no doubt that there were different infcrip- tions in the different chara^ers of the Hebrew, No. 41. Greek, Latin, Arabian, Saxon, Scotch, and Irifh languages. In no country perhaps are more Runic infcriptions to be met with than in this ifland : they are generally found upon funeral monuments, confift- ing of long, flat, rugged Aones, having crofles cut upon one or both fides, with figures of men, horfe;, flags, dogs, birds, and other devices. I'he infcriptions are generally upon one edge of the ftone, and are to be read from the bottom upwards. One of the mofl per- feiSl is upon a ftone crofs laid for a lintel, over a window in Kirk Michael church. Upon another ftone crofs in the fame church, is another fair Runic infcription ; and in the high- way, near the churchy is a laige monumental ftone, which, from a Runic infcription upon it, appears to have been eredled id memory of o-^e Thurulf, or Thulf. Ramfay is fituated on the eaft coaft, towards the north part of the ifland: it is remarkable only for a good fort, and an excellent harbour, north of which is a fpacious bay, where the greateft fleets may ride at anchor with fafety. Many fepulchral tumuli, er barrows, are yet re- maining in difi^erent parts of this ifland, particularly in the neighbourhood of the bifhop's feat. In feveral of thofe barrows have been found urns, fo ill burnt, and of fo bad a clay, that moft of them broke in taking tbem out. They were, however, each full of burnt bones, white and frefh as when interred. In the laft century here were found feveral brafs daggers, with other military inftruments of brafs, well po- lifhed i befides a target fiudded with nails of gold, and rivetted with pieces of the fame metal. The Ifle of Man appears to have been inhabited by the Britons at a very early period, and to have been the principal refidence of the dtuids, on their expulfion from Anglefea by Julius Agricola, till th« people of the ifland was converted to chriftianity ; an event which is by fome afcribed to Crathlent, king of Scotland, about the year 360, and by others to St. Patrick, in the year 447. When the Britons were difpoffeffed of the greater part of their territories by the Saxons, PiAs, and Scots, the Ifle of Man fell to the (hare of the latter ; but, with moft of the weftern ifles of Scotland, it was afterwards conquered by the Norwegians, and became part of the territories of a prince whom they ftiled king of the Ifles, and who chofe the Ifle of Man for his refidence. In the year 1 266, in confequence of a treaty between Mag- nus IV. king of Norway^ and Alexander III. of Scotland, the weftern ifles, and among them that of Man, were ceded to the Scots j but this ifland falling into the hands of Henry IV. of England, he gave it in 1405, to John lord Stanley, in whofe family ic continued, till the laft Stanley, earl of Derby, dying without iffue, it devolved on his fifter's fon, the duke of Athol. After the clofe of the laft war, when the Britifh adminiftration turned its thoughts towards the im- provements of the public revenue, the removal of the inconveniencies fo long experienced from the clan* defiine commerce of the Ifle of Man, produced a treaty between the lords of the treafury and the duke 6 H and 494 H •nd duceheri of AthnI, ai proprietor'., which being concluded, wai fuon after confirmed by an a£) of parliament. According to this treaty, in confidera- tion of the fum of feventy thoufand poundi, a fur- render was made to hit majefty of the fuperiority of the Ifle of Man ; referving, however, to the propri- etors the patronage of the biOioprick, and of all the ecclefiaftical preferments, with the right to the landed property in the iHand, henceforth to be held of the crown. Another ad was fpeedily pafled foreffcAually preventing any illicit trade from the Ifle of Man, the abolifhing which had been the principal object in the purchal'e, Before the tranfaflion abovementioned, the Ifle of Man, though held of the Britifll crown, was governed by its own laws and cufloms, under the hereditary dominion of a lord, who had formerly the title of king, which, though he had long ago waved, he was dill invcfted with regal rights and prerogatives. He appointed a governor or lieutenant general of the iflaiij, who cot'illantly riTidcd at Caftle-town, the nntropolis, and fuperinteiided all civil and military otHces. The bifhop is ftyled bilhop of Sodor and Man, and fumetinies Sodor dc Man. Whence he derived the tide of Soi'or is uncertain, and is varioufly accounted for : but ta: mod probable opinion appears to be, that it was from a church at PeeF, dedicated to ^iflif, our Saviour, thence originally called Ecclefia SoLorenfis, and now corrupted into Sodorenfis. He Is named to the fee by the lord of the Ifle, who pre- fents him to the king for hii royal aflent, and then to the archbiJhop of York, to be confecrated. He has a court for his temporalities, but, though a baron of the ifland, is entitled to no feat in the Britlfh parliament. The inhabitants of this ifland fpeak a dialed^ of the Celtic, and before the late ceflion lo the crown of Great Britain, were computed at about twenty thoufand ■, but fince that time they are faid to be confiderably diminifhed, ' " ' C H A P. XVII. CharaHcr of the EKgliJh— relight— ecc/e/ia^!irul go- vernment-— civil government— courts of jujiice^ punljhmentt, I (,,.... ... TH E general charaiEler of the Englifli is that of a humane, liberal, brave, and undeligning peo- ple, but more referved and bliint in their behaviour than moft of the nations on the continent. The plainnefs and fimplicity of manners, however, which formerly diftinguifhed them, h-'.s begun to give place, cfpecially in the capital, to e.ttravagance in drcfs and ccjulpage, as well as e.xpenfive amufcments ; and with the advancement of diflipation their ancient hofpitality has declined. Hardly any where h'as polite learning been more fucccfsfully cultivated than in this country; and fmce the acceflion of his prefent Majefty, the fine arts have made extraordinary progrefs tow.vds perfciJlion. MODERN [Europe. Theeflabliflied religion in England is Lutheranifm, and the church is governed by biniops, whofe bene, ficei were converted at the Norman Conqued into temporal baronies, in right of which every bifliop has a feat and vote in the houfe of peers. The be. nefices of the inferior clergy are now freehold, but in many places their tithes are impropriated in favour of the laity. Ever fince the reign of Henry VI II, the fovereigns of England have been ftyled (he fu. preme head of the church ; but this authority is only nominal, the kings being fatisfied with giving their fanflion to the legal rights of the clergy, and leaving the government of the church to the two archbiftiopi and tweniy>four bifliops. The two archbifliops are thofe of Canterbury and York ; the former of whom is (he firft peer of the realm, as well as metropolitan of the Englifh church. He is enabled tu hold eccle- fiaftical courts upur. all affairs that were formerly cognizable in the court of Rome, and are not re. pugnant to the king's prerogative. He enjoys the privilege of granting, in ccrtiin cafes, licenfes and difpenfaiions, as well as the probate of wills, when the party dying is worth upwards of five hundred pounds. Befides his own dioccfe, he has under him the biftiops of London, Bath, Briftol, Bangor, Chi> chefter, Coventry, Exeter, Oloucefter, Hereford, Llan- da(F, Norwich, Oxford, Peterborough, Salifbury, St. David's, St. Afaph, and Wells. The archbilhop of Canterbury takes preceden:e next to the royal family, of all dukes and officers offtatJ} and the archbilhop of York takes place of all dukes not of the blood royal, and of all officers of ftate, the lord-chanceller excepted. The latter,' befides his own diocefe, has in his province the bi> Ihops of f^arlifle, Cheftcr, Durham, and Sodor and Man. In Northumberland he has the power of a palatine, and exercifes jurifdi£tion in all criminal pro* ceedings. The bilhops take the precedence of all temporal barons, and are addrefted " Your lordlhip," as the archbifhops are " Your grace." The office of the bi. (hops is to examine and ordain priefts and deacons, to confecrate churches and burying- places, and to adrninifter the rite ot confirmation. Their jurifdic* tion relates to the probation of wills ; to grant ad. minidration of goods of fuch as die inteftate ; to take care of perifhable goods when no perfon will adrni- nifter ; to collaie to benefices ; to grant inftitutiona to livings ; to defend the privileges of the church ; and to vifit their refpedlive diocefes once in three years. The ecclefiaftical government in England is, pro- perly fpeaking, lodged in the convocation, which ia a national afTembly of the clergy. They are con- voked at the fame time with every parliament, and their bufinefs is to confider of the ftate of the church, and to take cognizance of thofe who have advanced any new opinions inconfiftent with the doflrines of the eftabliflied church. But from the dangerous powers which were aflfumed by this afTembly, during the reign of queen Anne, and in the beginning of that of George I. it has not fince been permitted to fit fe long a time as to enter upon bufinefs. 4 The Englan IEuropk. England.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. The court of archei ii the moft ancient confiflory of the province of Canterbury ) and thither are di- redled all appeals in church-matters, from the fen- tence of inferior courts. The procelTes are carried on in the name of the judge, who is called dean of the arches ; and none can plead In this court but thofe who are doAori in the civil law. The court of audience is another tribunal of equal authority. The prerogative court is that in which wills are proved and adminiftrations taken out. The court of peculiars relates to certain parities, in which it has a jurifdi£lion of the probate of wills, independ- ant of the bifliop's courts, In the fee of Canterbury there are no lefs than fifteen of thefe peculiars. The court of delegates receives its name from its confiding of commilfioners delegated or appointed by the royal commiflion i but it is only a temporary court. Every bifhop has likewife a court of his own, called the confiflory court. Every archdeacon, of whom there are in England about fixty, has alfo his court i as well as the dean and chapter of every cathedral. The fupreme executive power of Great Britain is vedcd ill the king, hut the legifl^ture in the king, lords, and commons, in parliament afll-mbled. The perfon of the fovercigii is facred in the eye of the law, which makes it high treafon fo much as to ima- gine or intend his death. He is alfo exempted from the imputation of any crime, the law authorising no cognizance of his aiEiions, except in the perlbns of his minifters, if they violate the conilitution of the country. The kinf can make either war or peace ; fend and receive ambifikdors } make treaties of league and commerce, levy armies, equip fleets, and employ them as he thinks proper. All ofRces of the date, the church, the army, and the navy, are in his dif- pofal i and he is the fource of honour, whence all degrees of nobility and knighthood are derived. He fummons the parliament to meet, and difiblves it at his pleaf-ire } and he may refufe his aflent to any bill, though it has pad both houfes. With all thefe prerogatives he pofieflcs the right of choofing his own council. The houfe of lords confids of the lords fpinfu.-!! and temporal, or the two archbifiiops and bifliops, and all the nubility ^not Roman catholics) who were created in England before the union, or have been made peers of Great Lriiain fince that time; with the fixteen reprefentatives of the nobility of Scotland, The fpeaker of the houfc is ufually the lord chancellor, or lord keeper of the great feal, which digni.ies arc commonly vcded in the fame perfon. The houfe of lords has a right to be attended on any occafion, by the judges of the court of king's bench, and com- mon pleas, with fuch of the barons of the exche- quer as are of the degree oF the coif, or have been made ferjeants at law ; as likewife by the mailers of the court of chancery ; for their advice in points of law, and for the greater dignity of their proceedings. Every peer, as being his own reprcfcntative, has a right, when a vote pnlTes contrary to his fcntiments, tu enter his diflent on the journals of the houfe, 495 manner I tad with his reafuns for afling in fuch this is ufually flyled hin protett, The houfe of commons confids of all the repre- fentatives of the counties, cities, and royal burghs in Great Britain. They fit in an apartment by them- Solves, and at the beginning of every parliament choofe a fpeaker, who mud be approved by the crown. The peculiar privileges of the hojl'e of commons re- late chiefly to the raifing of taxes, and the cleftiont of members to fit in parliament. With refpedl to taxes, it is an indlfputable right in the houfe of com- mons, that all grants of fubfides, or parliamentary lid*, do begin in their houfe, and are fird beftowed by them ; though their grants are not elFeAual, until they receive the afllnt of the other two branches of the legiflature. The general reafon for this exclufive privilege of the houfe of commons is, that the fupplies being raifed upon the body of the people, it is proper that they alone fliould enjoy the right of taxing them- felves. So jealous are the comindns of this privilege, that they will not fuiFer the other houfe to exercife any power but that of rejefling ; nor will they per- mit the lead alteration or amendment to be made by the lords to the mode of taxing the people by a money bill. Under this appellation are included all bills, bf which money is directed to be raifed upon the fub- je&, for any purpofe, or in any fhape whatever. The mode of procedure in making laws is much the fame in both houfes. In each the whole is bound by the a£l of the majority, which is declared by votes openly and publicly given. To bring a bill into the houfe of commons, if the relief fought by it be of a private nature, it is firft necedary to prefer a petition, which mud be pn* fented by a member. This petition, when founded on fafis, that require to be evinced, is referred to % committee of the members, who examine the matter alledged, and report it to the houfe ; when, if not before, leave is given to bring in a bill. But in pub- lic matters, the bill is brought in upon motion made to the houfe, without any petition. This is read a fird time, and, at a convenient diftance, a fecond time. After each reading, the fpeaker opens to the houfe the fubdance of the bill, and puts the quef> tion, whether it fliall proceed any further. The in- troduflion of the bill may be originally oppofed, as the bill itfelf may at either of the readings ; and, if the oppofition fucceeds, the bill mud be dropt for that feflion ; as it muft alfo, if fuccefsfully oppofed in any of the fubfequent dages. After the fecond reading, the bill is coitimitted or referred to a committee, which is either feledled, by the houfe in matters of fmall importance, or if the bill be of national confequence, ihe houfe refolves it- felf into a committee of the whole houfe. A com- mittee of the whole houfe is compofed of every mem- ber J and, to form it, the fpeaker quits the chair (another men;iber being appointed chairman) and may fit and debate as a private member. In thefe com- mittees the bill is debated claufe by claufe, amend- ments made, the blanks filled up, and fometimes the bill entirely new modelled. After it has gone through tht 4f6 THE th« commiitM, the chairmin report! il lo the houre, with fuch amcndmenti ■• the committee h«i made t when the houfe rcconfiden the bill, and the queftion it repettedly put upon every claufe and amendment. When the houfe baa cither agreed or difagreed to the amendmenia of the committee, and fometimei added new amendmenta of their own, the bill ii ordered to be engroflcd, or written in a ftrong grof* hand, on one or more rolla of parchment fewed together. Thit being done, it ii read a third time) when amendment] are fometimea made to it i and, if a new ciaufc be idded,it ii written on a feparate piece of parchment, called a rider, which it tacked to the bill. The Ipeakcr then again opent the contenia } and holding it up in hit bandi putt the queftion, whether the bill (hall pafs. If thia be agreed to, the title of the bill it then fettled. One of the mem- bert it then diredled to carry the bill to the lords, and deflre their concurrence. Attended by fcveral others, he catriet it to the bar of the houfe of peers, where he delivers it to the fpealcer, who comes hither from bis feat for that purpofe. It there paflet through the fame forms as in the other houfe (excepting en- groffing, which is already done) and, if reje£ied, no more notice it taken, but it ftihs fub /iiinth, to pre- vent unbecoming altercations. If the lords agree to it, they fend a meflage by two maders in chancery (or fometimet, in matters of high importance, by two of the judges) acquainting the houl'e of commons of their determination ; and the bill remains with the lords, if they have made no amendment to it { but if any amendments te made, they are fcnt down with the bill to receive the concurrence of the commons. If the latter (hould difagree to the amendmentt, a conferenec ufually followi between membert deputed from each houfe ; who for the mod part adjuft the difference j but it both houfes remain inflexible, the bill is dropped. If the commons agree to the amend- ments, the bill it fent back to the lords by one of the members. The fame forms are inverfely obferved, when the bill begins in the houfe of lords. But when an a£i of grace or pardon is pafled, it is (irft figned by his Majefty, and then read once only in each of the houfes, without any new engrofling or amendments. When both houfes have done with any bill, it is al. ways depofited in the houfe of peers, to wait the royal aflent; except in the cafe of a money bill, which, after receiving the concurrence of the lords, is fent back to the houfe of commons. In the houfe of com mons the vote of the members is exprefled by ay* or no, and in the houfe of peers, by conitnt, or not contint. The royal afTent may be given to bills either by his majefty in perfon, or by commifltoners deputed for the purpofe ; and in the former cafe the tranf nounces // rty li vtut, " the king wills it to be (o;" if to a private bill, fgit fail ttrnmi U iji difiri^ " be it as it is defired." If the king refufes his af- fent, it is intimated in the gentle expreflion of It rty I'aviftra, '• the king will advife upon it." When a money bill is palTed, it is carried up, as has al- ready been faid, by the fpeaker of the houfe of com- mons, and the royal aflent is thus exprefTed, U icy rtmircit fti Ityal futjtQiy aceepli Itur lenrvilenct, U auj^ It vtyt, " the king thanks hit loyal fuhje£)s, accepts iheir benevolence, and wills it fo to be." In cafe of an aft of grace, which originally proceeds from the crown, and has the royal alTent in the (irft ftagc of it, the clerk of the parliament thus pronounces the gratitude of the fubjcfV, la prtlatit fiignturs, W comnuni, tn ffORT"AMEBICAl &m ^^ '"f. P/L Thet office pc conftttui fervantt though nexed t it a pol of firft chancel them v- Thi crown, next t archbi Tl land. now I ot wl Enolamo.1 GENERAL TRAVELLER. 497 S/>^Mgi0 tf' »ilj£n^UuJt aO I4t land. This it an offioe of fo high rank, that It is now fxcrciicd only occafionally, as «t a coronation, or when a peer or pecrcfs it tried for • capital ciime. No. 41. fons, and* took plieeof alTlfleSNnnlllii'U.'' ' The office of earl maiflial is hereditary in the family of the duke of Norfolk. Before England became fo commercial a country as it hat been for a century paft, this office required great abilities, and know- lege of Englifli hiftory, for Its difcharge. In time of war, the wrl marlbal was the judge of all army caufet, and decided according to the principles of the civil Irw. When the caufe did not admit of fuch a dccifion,' it was left to a perfonal combat, attended with a great variety of ceremonies, the ar- rangement of which fell f ntircly within the mirihart province. To this day, he, or his deputy, regulate* all poiate of precedence according to the archival kept i|> the herald's office, which is alfo within hie jurifdiAion. He direfls all folemn proceffions, co« ronuiotM, proclamations, funehils, g«neral mourn* lags, aad the like. He is fuppofcd to b« judge of the i I mariluU 496 THE MODERN [Europe. ' ♦. 1,1 •^•t~™_^._, ■'• " .J^»««(''I. ' *cv|T •ri • ■ . « V* ^ I • -' * -„..• If «.»»' Ulmt. »B|i:i^' -' nirtr vti(;ti;j«u:«|3MC. -.Aiii houfcs, without any new engrofling or amcndmrnts. When both houfei have done with any bill, it is al- ways depofited in the houfc of peers, to wait the royal alTenti except in the cafe of a money bill, which, after receiving the concurrence of the lords, is fent back to the houfe of commons. In the houfe of com mons the vote of the members is exprefled by ayt or n«, and in the houfe of peers, by contint, or not conttnt. The royal aflent may be given to bills either by his majefty in perfon, or by commiflioners deputed for the purpofe ; and in the former cafe the tranfifiion is accompanied with much folemnity. The king (hen appears in the houfe of lords, on his throne, in his royal robes, with the crown on his head, and attended by the great officer* of (late and heralds. A feat on the right hand of the throne, where the princes of Scotland, when peers of England, for- merly fat, is referved for the prince of VVaiei. The When an %& has pafled, it is placed among the records of the kingdom, no formal promulgation being neceflary to give it the force of a law } be- caufe every fubjeft of the realm is confidered, in the judgment of the law, as a party to the making of an a£l of parliament, being virtually prefent in his reprefentatives. Copies, however, are annually printed at the king's prefs, for the ufe of thofe who are defirous of particular information. An a£l of parliament, thus made, is the higheft authority acknowledged by the nation, and can nei- ther be difpenfed with, nor repealed, but in the fame forms, and by the fame conditutional powers to which it owed its exigence. To prevent the mifchiefs that might arife by plac- ing this extenfive authority in hands that are either incapable, or elfe improper, to condufl fo important a charge, it is provided that no perfon (hall fit or vot? :i'Rore Emolano.] 0£N£RAL TRAVELLER. 497 -r^-^'s ■i i M ng the Igatioii ■J be- '■d, in taking nt in nuailjr ; who igheft nei- fam* i^hich plac- ither rtant t or vote «ei« in cither houfai at itM-liimcat, unUfi ht be lwcniy-on« yean of (|«. To prevent innovaiioni in religion and goverkoieni, it ii cnaAeiii that no mem- ber Aiall fit in either koufe, till he hu, in the pre* fence of the houfe, talien the oeihi of tllegiance, fupremacy, end abjuretion i and fubfcribed and re- peated the decUrationa againft iranfubftantiatien, the invocation af fainti, and the facrifice of the mafi. To prevent dangeri that iMay aiiie in the kingdom from foreign attuhment*, conne«iAni, or dcpcnden- ctee, it ii cnaAed, that no alien, born out of the do- minioiu of Che crown of Great Britain, even thovgb be be naturalixed, fliall be capable of bcieg a mem* bcr of either houfe of parliaaent. Bcftdce the high court of parlianent, which it the grand council of the nation* the king baa for hit afliftanii fubordinate officer* and minifteri, who are refponfible for their advice antbcondu A. They are appointed by the king'* nonination* without cither patent or grant i and on taking the necedTary oaths, become immediately privy counfejlen, during the life or pleafure of the fovereign that choofei them. The duty of • privy-counlellor conAfti of feven article*, namely, to advlfe the king according to the beft of hi* judgment i to adviie for the king'* honour and good of the public, without partiality, through afiieQion, love» need, doubt or dread i to keep the king'* counfcl fecret ( to avoid corruption | to help and firrngihen the execution of what fliall be there refolded i to withftand all pcrfon* who would attempt the contrary } and laftly, in general, to obferve, keep, and do all that a good a^d true counfellor ought to do to hi* fovereign lord. Upon • great emergency, the privy-council can fuperfede the operation of the law, if the parliament i* not fitting i but tbi* i* confidered a* illegal, and an ad of parliament muft pafi for the pardon and Jndemoiiication of thofe concerned. The adminiftration ie chieA/ conduAcd by a com mtttee of the privy-council, commonly called the ca- binet council. Thi* conCfti of the lord chancellor, the firft lord (tf the treafury, the iirft lord of the ad- miralty, the fecretariei of ftate, the lord privy-feal, and the ptefident of the council. The term of fird or prime minifter, though the office perhaps be oecefiiiry, i> unknown to the Britlih conftitution ; and the king may entruft any of his fervants with the management of public affair*. But though it i* no office, there i* a rerponlibility an nexed to the name and common repute, that render* it a poft of difficulty and danger. ' When the oflke of firft lord of the treafury i* united with that of chancellor of the exchequer, the perfon who hold* them is alway* confidered a* firft minifter. There are in England nine great officer* of the crown, .who in virtue of their poft* take precedtney next to the' prince* of the royal family and the two atcbbifhops. The firft sf tbefe i» the lord high fieward of Eng< land. This U an office of fe high rank, that It 1* now excrcifcd only occafionally, a* at a coronation, or when a peer or peeref* is tried for a capital ctine, . No. 4s. In the formt eafb it i* held for the day of the coro. nation only, by fome gtert nobleman 1 and In the latter it i* generally exetcifed by the lord chancellor, or lord keeper 1 whole commiffion, as high fteward, ends with the trial, by breaking hit jvbite tod, the badge of hi* office. The lord high chancellor prefide* in th« court of chancery, to moderate the fevcritiei of the law, in all cafes where the property of the fubJeA I* con- cerned I and hi* rale it to give judgment according to the diAatei of equity and rerfon. The poft of lord high treaAirer hat for meny years been vefted in a commiffion, copfiAing of five per- font, who are called lordi of the treafury 1 but the firft commifTioner it fuppofrd to pofTeft the power of the lord high tteafurer. He has the management of all the revenues of the crown kept in the exchequer j «« alfo the letting of the lealVs of all crown lands, and the gift of all places belonging to the cuftemi in the feveral parts of the kingdom. ' The lord prefident of the council was formerly en officer of great power. His duty is to propofe all the bufinefs traafa^ed at the council board, and td report to the king, when hi* majefty ha* not been prcftnt, all ite debate* and proceeding*. Thi* ii Hill an office of great dignity, a* well at importance. The lord privy-feal put* the king'* feal to all charters, grant*, and the like, which are figned by the king, in order to their paffing the great feal. H« hat likewife under his cognizance feveral other affair*, which do not require the great feal 1 and he i* re« fponfible, i; he fltould apply the privy-feal to anything againft the law of the land. The office of lord great chamberlain' of England ii hereditary to the family of the duke of Ancafter. Ht attend* the king'* perfon, on hi* corotiation, to drefs him. He has alfo the charge of the houfe of lord* during the fitting of parliament t and of fit* ting up Weftminfter-hall for coionationt, or trialt of peers. The office of lord high conllable ha* been difufed fince the year isaii but i* occafionally revived for a coronation, it wa* formerly a place of very great truft, a* it commanded all the king'* forts and garri* fons, and took place of all officers in the field. The office of earl mailhal is hereditary in the family of the duke of Norfolk. Before England became fo commercial a country a* it ha* been for a century paft, this oBtn required great abilities, and know- lege of Englilh hiftory, for its difcharge. In time of war, the aarl maribal wa* the judge of all army caulbi, and decided according to the principles of the civil law. When the caufe did not admit of fuch a dccifionj it was left to a perfonal combat, attended with a great variety of cetemionies, the ar« rangemcni of which fell fntirely within the marlhal't proTince. To this day, he, or his deputy, regulate* all poiat* of precedence according to the archive* kept io the herald's office, which i* alfo within hi* jurifdiAion. He direAs all folemn proceffion*, co* ronatioit*, proclamations, funehils, general mourn- ing*, and the lika. He is fuppofed to be judge of the 6 I marlhal- ».» 493 II MODERN [KuKOfl!. mtr0ulA:(-cour( i *iid in IliuCe tiokCi when prod*- mitioni hid lh« force of Uw, he txtrciud ■ ctnfo ril power in all ctlu of ul'ur) ing ftlie ntmri, de. fignationi, armorial b«arin|(, and ihe like | but ihli povtr ii now tfifpuUd, and reduced lo a conformity with ihe common Uw, Ai ihc duki of Norfolk it difqualificd by hii reli|lon from the exrrcilc uf any part of the office, fnme noblemini generally one ol hit own friendi or family, ii deputed to »£k for hia t and he wean, ai hii badge, a gold baton lipped with ebony. The ofica of lord high admiral ia likewifc now held by commillion, and ia a place of great importance. Thii ii a boaid of dircAion, aa well at of execution, and ia in iti proceeding! independent even uf the crown. All iriali up«n life and death, in maritime affaiti, are appointed and held under a commiffion immediately ilFuing from thii board i and the mei^ bcri mud fign ihc death warrant for execution. Be- ing removeable at pleafure, they can do nothing to claOi with the prerogative uf the crown, and muA comply with the directions which they receive from hii majefty. I'he board of admiralty regulatca the whole naval force of the nation, and namei all iti oAccrK, or confirm! them when named i fo thai iti jurifdiAion ia very extcnfive. An appeal, bowe/cr, liea from it to the high court of admiralty, a court •f a civil nature, the judge of which ii commonly • doAor of the civil law. But all criminal maiteri, relating to piracici, and other capital offence* com- mitted ' fea, are tried and determined according to the laW4 of England, by wiincflci and a jury, ever fince the reign of Henry VIII. There arc in England properly two fecretaries of flate, one of whom hat the fouihern, and the other the noithern department. In the former are comprehended the fouthern countriea, and in the lat- ter, Germany, PruOia, Poland, Ruffia, Sweden, Denmark, Holland, Flandcra, and the Hans-towni. I'hefe officer! are entrufted with the king's fignet Befide! them, the firft commiffioner of the board of trade haa for fome years adled as a fccretary of Aate, for the American colonies j but thofe two offices are now disjoined. The next in dignity to the high court of parlia ment is the court of chancery, which is intended to relieve the fubjed againft frauds, breaches of trufl, and other oppreffions ; and to mitigate the rigour of the law. In this court the lord high chancellor fits aa fule judge ; and in his abfence the mafter of the roll*. The form of procjceding is bf \fi\ii, anfwcrs, and decrees, the witneflca being examined in private. The decree* of this court, however, do not affcA ei> ther lands or goods, and are binding only to the pcrfons of thofe concerned in them ; who, Ihould they refufe to comply with j the terms, may be feot to the prifon of the Fleet. The court is always open i and if a- man be fent to prifon, the lord chancellor, in any vacation, can grant « haitat ear ptif, if he thinks proper. To this court belongs the clerk of the crown, wi\», either in perfou or by his deputy,, is obliged, to attend iSp lord chancellor as nUtn at he fii< foi the difpatih of bufinefi. 'Ihrnuffh «h* handi uf ihn nificrr pafs ill writs for fummoning ihe parllamtni, or choofing of members i commldlon* of the peace, pardons, ke. The court of king's banch ii fo called either from the king! nf England fometimes fitting there in p«r< Ton, or becaufe here art tried all maittr* deteimin. able at common law between the king and hit fub- jeil*, except fuch affair* aa properly belong to the court of eschcquer. Thia court haa likewife the controul of all inferior court*, their judgft, and the juflicc* «f peace. The number of lia judgt* are lour, the firft of whom ia ftyled lord chief juHice of the king'a bench, or, by way of eminence, Urd chief juftice of England. The court of common plea* take* cogniatnce of all picas between fubjeA and fubje ing the revenue* of the crown, and i* vtfted with the power of judging both according to law and equity. In thi" caufe* which are triad according to law, the lord chief baron of the exchequer, with three othrr baron*, prefide* in the court. Bcfidei thefe, there i* a fifth, called curfitor baron, who baa not a judicial capacity, but i* only employed in ad- miniftering the oath to (heriff* and their officers, and alfo to feveral of the officers of the cudom-houfe. In cafes where thia court determine* according to equity, the barons are affifted by the firft lord of the treafury, and the chancellor of the exchequer. All mattei* relating to the king'* treafury, revenue, and fine*, are here tried. Other officer* belonging to thia court are, the king's remembrancer, who take* and ftates all account* of the revenue, cuftoma, ex- cife, parliamentary aid*, &c. and the lord treafuter'a remembrancer, whofe bufinef* i* to make out pro- cefTe* againft flieriffa, receiver* of the , revenue, and other officer*. For the more effe£lual execution of the lawa, a high (heiiff i* annually appointed by the king, fot t*ery county, except thofe of Middlefex and Weft- moreland. The office of the flieriff ia both mioif- tetial and judicial. He i* to execute the king'a man- date*, and all writ* dirc£led to him out of the king'a court* of juftice ; to impannel juries, to bring male- faflor* to trial, and to fee the fentence* executed, both in civil and criminal affairs. He i* alfo to attend the judges at the affinea, and to guard them all the time they are in hi* county. It is, beftdes, a part of hit office to collet all public finea and diftrelTcs into the exchequer, or where the king (hall appoint i and to make fuch payments out of them aa bis majefty fhall order. The office of the (heriff being judicial, he holda a court, called the county court, to hear and deter- mine all civil caufe* under forty fhillings. TJti* was formerly a court of record, but for many yeata ila ancient privilege, has been aboliflicd, ». -The The England] GENERAL TRAVELLER. Tht ncil officer (o lh« AitiifT U ih« juftic* of p«acr, of whom ihtre «r« fkvcr«l in e4ch county. Tbry art inlruOoi with ihi power of ficcuiing grcti pirt of ihi ftatuti liw, in malitri rtliiing lo ihi ki|hwi]ri, the poor, vigranti, rioii, Ste. and ihty examine and commit lo prlfon all who Jidurb ihe prace. For ih^ puniflimtni of offSendrri ihcjr meet ntff iiuarUr ai (he countjr t conflable' ii very ancient in the Englifh conftitution. Every parifh i* furniflird with' one of thofe i and every hundred with a high-con> ilable, on whom the former occaflonally attend. They arc aflifted by another officer, called the tythlng- man, who formerly fuperintended the tenth part of a hundred. The buflnefs of a conftable is to keep the peact in all Cafes of quarrels and riots. He can imprifon offenders till (hey are brought before a juftice of peace I and it is his duty to execute, within bis diftriA, every warrant that i« directed to' him by fucb a magillrate. fiefidei thefe there are. courts of confcience in many parts of England for the relief of the poor, in the recovery or payment of fmall debts, not exceeding forty (hillings. In no pt^litical conftitution whatever, is perfonal liberty mote ftrongly fecured than in (hat of Eng- ltt>d. £very man toat is imprifoned has a right to bring a writ before a judge in Weftrainfter-hall, called bis faabeai corpus. If the judge, after con- fidering the caufe of comdiitment. Dull find that the offence' ii Inilable, the party la immediately admitted 499 to bail, till be undergoes a Iti^l in 4 proper court of judicr. If any man Is charged with a capital oflTcnce, he muft undergo the ignominy of being ititd for his lil'v, till the evidences of his guilt are laid before the grand jury of the town or county in which the faA Is al. ledged to be committed 1 and nut without twelve uf them agreeing to a bill of inJu'linent againi) him. If this be done, he muft ftand a con J triiil, befuie twelve other men, whofe opinion 11 dLTiiiitive. In fome cafes the peifon is allowed a copy of his in* diiflment, in order to help him to make hit defence. He is alfu furniftied with the pHnnel, or lift of the jury, whn are his proper judges, that he may en- quire ino their charaflers, and difcover whcthc- they want al)iliiie«, or entertain any prrjudice againll him. Of the number that is originally nominated for "this purpofc, he may in open court perempto* rily ohje£| to twenty, without alTigning any reaibn, and to as many more at he can aftigii a fufficicnt reafun for their not being admitted as his judges. 7'he trials of nulefa^ilori is condu£1ed in England in a particular manner. The court being met, and the prifoner called to the bar, he is commanded to hold up his hand by the clerk, who charges him with the crime of which he it accufed, and afks hint whether he is guilty or not guilty. If the piifoner anfwert gtiliy, his trial is at an end ; but if he an- fwers not guilty, the court proceedi to the trial, even though he may before have confcfled the fa£i : for Ihe law of England takes no notice of fuch con- feffion I and unlefs the witnisirrs, who are upon oath, prove him guilty of the crime, the jury muft acquit him. If the prifoner rcfufes to plead, that is, ifhA will not fay in court, whether he ia guilty or not guilty, the law of England formerly enjoined that h« (hould be prelTed to death i bur this law is new repealed.' When the witnefles have giveit their evidence, and (he prifoner has, by himfelf or hit counfel, cioft-ex- amined them, the judge recapitulatei to the jury tbs (ubftanee of (he evidence produced againft (he pri- foner, and deftrei (hem (o pronounce a vcrdiA ac- cording to their confcience. If the ma(ter be very clear, they commonly give their verdifl without go- ing out of cour( ; and (his is delivered in the name of (he whole jury, by (he foreman, who declare* the prifoner guilty or not guilty. But if any doubr atife* among the jury, and the matter requires deli- beration, they all withdraw into a room with a copy of the indiiHmenr, where they continue locked up till (hey arc unanlmoufly agreed in (heir vcrdiA ; and if any one of (he jury (hould die during (bis i«i- (erval, (he prifoner will be acquitted. When the jury have agreed in their verdi£l they inform the court of it i and the prifoner is again fet (o the bar to be infoj-med of hi* fate. The yerdiiS of tht jury is unalterable, except in feme doi^btful cafes, when it is brought in fpccial, and is liierefore to be deter« mined by (he twelve judge* of England. All prifoner* found not -uilty by the jury iii iin« mediately difcharged ; and in fome cafe* obtain a copy ioo THE MOjDERN [Europe. copy of their indi£lment from the court, to proceed at law againft their profecuturs. Though the laws of England ure efteemed more merciful than thofe of moft other countries, yet the puniOiment of fuch as .at their trial refufe to plead guilty or not guilty, was formerly extremely cruel, lu this cafe (he prifimer was laid upon hit back ) when his arms and legs being ftretched out with cords, and a confiderable weight laid upon his bread, he was aU lowed Only three morfels of barley bread, given him the next day without drink } after which he was al- lowed nothing but fou! water till he expires. This punilhment, however, was iharccly infliAed once in an age ( but fome oiFenders have chofen it to preferve their eftates to their children. Thofe guilty of this crime were not fuffered to undergo fuch a length of torture, but had h great a weight placed upon them, that they foon expired. In cafe of high treafun, tho' the criminal (land mute, judgment was always given againft him, as if he had been convidled, and his eilate is confifcated. The law of England ranks al! capital crimes under high treafon, petty treafon, and felony. The firft ■ mfifts in plotting, or rifing up in arras againft the fovereign, or in counterfeiting the coin of the realm. The traitor is puniflied by be!\ig drawn upon a fledge to the place of execution, when after hanging on the gallows a little time, the b?dy is cut down alive, the heart taken out, and crpofed to public view, and the entrajls burnt The bead is then cut off, and the body quartered, after which the former is ufually fixed on fome coafpicuou> \y\ice. All the criminals lands 4Bd goods are forfeited, his wife lofes her dowry, and his children both their eftates and nobility. But though coining of money be adjudged high tr^ifon, the criminal is only drawn upon a fledge to the place of execution, and there hanged. The fentence paiTed upon all traitors is the fame ; yet when the offenders are perfont of quality, the puniihment is generally altered to beheading. The puiw ing drawn upon a fledge to the place of execution, and there hanged upon a gallows till the criminal is dead. Women guilty either of this crime, or of high treafon, are fentenced to be burnt alive; but inftead of fulFering the full rigour of the law, they are ftrangled at the ftak«; before the fire takes hold of them. Felony includes murders, robberies, and forge- ries. Thefe are puniiiied by hanging, only murderers are to be executed foon after fentence is pafled ; and then to be d|;livered to, the furgeons, for public diflec- tion. Perfons guilty of robbery were fometimcs tranf- ported for a tepn of years to his majefty's plantaiioiis; and in all thofe felonies where the benefit of clergy ii allowed, the offender is burnt in the hand with a hot iron. In the cufe of manflaughtcr, which is the unlaw- ful killing of a pcrfon without premeditated malice but with a prefent intent to kill^ the oflfendcr is al- lowed the benefit of clergy for the firft time, and onl/ biirrt in the hand. For chance-medley, or the acci> de'jtally killing a man without ai\ evil intent, the offender is alfo to be burnt in the hand ; unlefs he was doing any unlawful »(\, which renders the punifhment death. The punifhments for fome other crimes are, im- prlfonment, fine^ilr^infportalion^ whipping, or ftaiid- ing in the pillory ; and within thefe few years the method has been introduced of pulling conviJls to hard labour in clearing the bed of the river Thames, ' CHAP. xviir. Of the Rrctnuti military and naval ejlahlijlmtntt, ' I '' H E ecclefiaftical revenue being now moflly * alienated by the bounty of the .ci'own, the king's ordinary temporal revenue confifts in the de> mefiic-lands of the crown ; the hereditary excife, which is part of the confideration for the purpofe of his fcodal profits, and the prerogatives of purveyance and preemption ; with an annual fum ifluing from the duty on wine licences ; the forefls, the courts of juftice, &c. The annual taxes are the land-tax, and the malt- tax. The perpetual taxes are the cuftoms, or tun. nage and poundage of all merchandife exported or importe'i -, the excife duty, or inland import on a gre?.: variety of commodities } the fait duty, the poft- office, or duty for the carriage of letters j the ftamp duty on paper, parchment, &c. the duty on houfes and windows ; the duty on licences for hacKney- coaches and chairs ; and the duty on offices and penfions. The nett produce of thofe feveral branches of the revenue, after all charges are paid, amounts nearly to eighteen millions ; befid^s two millions raifed an- nually, at an average, by the land and malt-tax. In the time of peace this revenue is little more th^n fufficient for the ordinary expences of the go- vernment, and for paying the intercft of the national debt. For the fupport of a war, therefore, extraor* dinary fupplies are granted by the houfe of com- mons, who alfo confidcr of the ways and means for raifing them. The land forces of tbcfe kingdoms, . in . time of peace, amount to about forty thoufand men, including thofe in garrifons in Ireland, Gibralter, Minor.'a, and America ; but in time of war, there have been in Britifli pay, natives aod foreigners, above a hun- dred and fifty thoufand. This computation is ex- clufive of the roilitia, of which there is novv embo- died to the number of above forty thoufand. The navy of Great Britain is confefledly the molt formidable in the world. The complemrnt of fea- SCOTL men, in or fiftee amounte Office in the occupati the kin foldlers and difp Scotland.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 5 ward of Carlifle. In the time of tlie Romans this kingdom extended farther fouth, being bounded by the wall which ftreiched from Carlifle to Newcaftle ; and under the Norman kings, it included the three northern counties of Northumberland, Weftmoreland, and Cumberland. It is divided into thirty-three (hires or counties, namely, thofc of Berwick, Rox- burgh, Selkirk, Dumfries, Kircudbright, Wigton, Air, Peebles, Haddington, Edinburgh, Linlithgow, Lanerk, Renfrew, Dumbarton, Sterling, Clackman- nan, Kinrofs, Fife, Angus, Perth, Argyie, Inver- nefs, Mearns, Aberdeen, BamfF, Moray, Nairn, Cro- martie, Rofs, Sutheiland, Caithnefs, Orkney, and Bute. CHAP. I. 17je Shins of Berwick, Roxlurgh, Selkirk, Dumfriit, Kirciulbright, and JUgtm. PROCEEDING from vhe caft part of Nor- thunibciland into Scotland, we arrive in B(;r- wickfliire, a feiiile coOntry, which derives its name from the town of Berwick, formerly the capital. It is divided into two didricis, called the Mcrfe or Mer- chcs, and Lauderd.ile. The chief town of the for- mer, at prefent, is Crccnlaw, and of the latter, Lau- dfr, both of them linall towns, but royal boroughs. In the Merfe is fituared the town of Duns, anciently the capital of the Jillrid), and remarkable for the bath, in the year 1274, of Juhu Duns, commonly called Dull!. .Scntus. This js a pl.ice of the beft trade in the county ; and of all the towns in Scotland, is tepu""'. iw have the bed weekly market for cattle, is'o. 42. A few miles weflward lief Coldftream, another market-town, where formerly ftood an abbey. It u fi{>-ated oppofite to C»rnhill, on the north bank of the Tweed, over which here has lately been built a fine bridge, confifting of five large, and two fmaller arches. Another market town is Eccles, whence at a little diftance iies Erfilton, noted for the bir:h-place of the prophetic poet Learmont, fo much admired by the i:ommon people in Scotland, under the name of Thomas the Rhymer. Aymouth flands on the fea-coaft fome miles north of Berwick, and haj a good harbour for fifhing. Here was formerly a fort, ereded with the view of curbing '.h'; garrifon of Berwick ; and in the reign o.' queen Elizabeth, it was held by the French, as this was the firA port in Scotland where they could fafely land fupplies for the queen-mother. Coldingham, where a monaftery was built by the king of Scotland about the year iioo, became famous for F.bba, its lady abbefs. She was the daughter of Edelfred, ki.'>g of Northumberland ; and wh^n her father was made prifoner by the Pagan Mercians, (he, with three other wonrn, took refuge in a boat in the Humber, whence rciving into the open fea, they were driven by florm urder a promontory in this county, and their boat da(h':d in pieces. On reaching the ftiore, they wer" /upplied by the inhabitants with food ; and ereiEled for themfelves a little hut, where leading an auflere life, they in a (hort time acquired fo great a charaSer for fanflity, that people from every quarter folicited them for their praye.-s, by which they obtained fuch donation: 3S enabled then to build a religious houfe at Coldingham. When the Danes invaded this part of Scotland, Ebba, who was very beautiful, is faid to have cut ofF her nofe and upper lip, for the fake of preferving her chaftity ; and fhe caufed her companior^s to do the fame. But the barbarous Danes, exafperated at this behaviour, fet fire to the nunnery, and burnt every perfon in it alive. From this lady, who was fainted for thofe fufTerings, the promontory where fhe landed is to this day called St. Abba's Head, and vulgarly St. Tabb's. Upon the point of this promontory there 6 K yyjg n £02 H M D E R N [ Europe. SoTLi : was a ftrong fort, c»lle twenty and thiity thoufand Win- chefter biiftels of corn. Here was anciently a caftle, which is now demolifhed. Lochmaban, V't'ich, as well as the two preceding towns, is a royal borough, is almofl: furrounded with lakes, which afTord excellent fifh, particularly a kind found no where elfe. Here likcwilc formerly flood a caflle. Mo{Fct Hands on the river Annaii, and is remark- able for medicinal fprings, fo murh cfleemcd in fcrophulous, as well as in other diford.-rs. Near Langholme is fhewn a fpot where fcveral wo- mtn fuffered for witchcraft in the laft century ; and not many years ago, an opinion prevailed in thofe parts, that the midwives had the power of tranf- ferring to the hufband the pains of his wife when in child-bed. The ancient cuflom of hand-fifling was pra(5lifed in the diftridl of Efkdale fo late as the middle of the laft century. At an annual fair, held near the con- iluei.ce of the white and black E(k, the unmarried of each fex looked out for m?tes ; and making their engagements by hand-fifling, or joining hands, they went oft" in pairF, and cohabited till the return of the fair, to which they ? ain rcfortcd, and were at liberty either to renew or break off their former treaty; and if both parties were fatisfied, the engagement was then made for life. This cuftom is fuppofed to have taken its rife from the want of clergy in the popifh times. Nut far diftant is the village of Gretna, famous of late years for the clandeftine marriage of parties that refoit from England for that purpofe. In the burying- ground of Kirkonnel is feen the grave of the fair Ellen Irvine, with that of her lover. This lady being wooed by two gentlemen at the fame time, the unfuccefsful rival vowed to facrifice the other to his rcfcntment ; and watched an opportunity of effeiling his purpofe, while the happy pair was fitting on the bank of the Kirtle, which waflies thofe grounds. Attacking him therefore in this fituation, the lady iiiterp^fcd, in hope offaving her favourite, when receiving the wound intended for the latter, fhe fell, and expired in his arms. After revenging her death on the aflailant, he fled into Spain, where he ferved fome time againft the infidels. Returning to Scotland, he vifued the grave of his millrcfs, on which having ftrctched himfelf he expired, and was interred by her fide. On the tomb-ftone are engraved a fword and a crof?, with the infcription, Hie jacct Adam Fleming, This tragical event is faid to have happened either about the end of the reign of James V. or the beginning of that of Mary. At Burrens, in the parifli of Middlcby, are the velliges of a Roman flation, fuppofed to be the Bla- tum Bulgium of Antonine, and the place where Agri- cola concluded his fccond year's expedition. Two miles hence are alfo the veftiges of two other Roman camps, K I R K U D J; R I G H T, VVeftward of the fliire of Dumfries lies the Stewarlry of Kirkudbright, containing the lower, or the cail part of Gallow.ny, a mountainous country, but abo jnd- ing with fheep. The capital of this diftridt is Kir- kudbright, a fea-port town, on a bay of the Irifli fea, eighty-three miles fouthweft of Edinburgh. Not- withftanding the commodious fituation of this place, its trade is very inconfiderable, owing partly to the poverty, and partly to the difpofition of the inhabit- ants. The river Dee, which enters the fea here, and forms the harbour, takes its rife in the moun- tains near Carrick, in the fhire of Air, and is fo remarkable fur its windings, that though it crcfTe* a country of not more than feven* /, miles in extent, in a ftraight line, it runs near two hundred in iti courfe. W I N. The fliire of Wigton, or the weftern part of Gal- loway, contains the di(lri£ls of Wigtcr;, Stranraer, and Whitehorn. This country ftretches with a pen- infula fo far into the fea, that from its extremity Ire- land is plainly difcernible. The arm of the fea on the north fide is called Loch-Rian, and that on the other, the bay of Glcnluce. On the former of thofe bays, where the peninfula joins the continent, ftands the town of Stranraer, a royal borough, and a place of fome trade. A little weflward is fituated Port- Tdtiick, the ordinary place for the paflage to Ireland. Eiere is a good harbour, and a fafe road ; but the packet boat, and a few fifliing veflels, form alinoft the whole of 'ts navigation. The extent of this peninfula, from its northern coaft, which is called Fairland-Point, to the Mull of Galloway, in its fouthern extremity, is about thirty Englifh miles J and it meafures in breadth from thretf to fix. It is hilly rather than mountainous, and while it affords excellent pafture for flieep and black cattle, is not dcficie.it in corn. The borough of VVigton is fituated on a bay in the Irifh channel, at the mouth of the river Crea ; and fix miles fouthvard lies Whitehorn, the ancient Candida Cafa, and likewife a royal borough, where ,ii fc'Tier times flood a priory. Though the people of Galloway, confidering their maritime fituation, are far too neglcftful of commerce, they apply with diligence to agriculture, and "re great breeders of cattle, of which it is computed, that they annually fend to England above fifty thoufand head. The country alfo produces an excellent kind of ftrong little horfcs, thence called Galloways. The an- cient language and drefs of the inhabitants were thofe which are commonly wore in the highlands of Scot- land i but for upwards of a hundred year: they have been gradually difufed, CHAP. 5»4 H H P. II. M N [Europe. Tb* Shins af Air., PttbUi, Haddington, Edinburgh, Linlithgow, Lanark, RtHfrtw, Dumbarton, Clack- mannan, and Kinroft, TH E (hire of Air lies northward of Galloway, and is divided into three bailcriea, viz. Car- rick, Ryle, and Cunningham, Carricic is a lefs mountainous, and more fruitful country than Gallo- way, but does not abound fo much in cattle, efpe- cially fheep and horfes. Th« inhabitants along the coaft devote themfelves chiefly to fifhing, in which trade they are employed by the merchants of Glafgow, and other parts. The chief town in this dilhi£l is Mayhole which, though fituated on the coaft, has no harbour, and is a poor place, but has a tolerable good market. Proceeding to the north part of this divifion, we pafs the river Dun, over a biidge of one arch, ninety foot wide, and arrive iif the diflrifl of Kyle, which, being more level, is much better cultivated than the former, and likewife more populous. The town of Air is didinguiOied into the old and new town, the former being fttuated on the fouth fide of the river of the fame name, over which is a bridge of four arches. This is the ancient Erigetia, •famous for the privileges it enjoyed. The new town fiands on the north fide of the river. It has a good harbour in the river, and lies conveniently for trade, though in this it be greatly declined. This place is noted for the treacherous murder of many noblemen and gentlemen by the Englifli, after Edward I. had over- run the country. Being fummoned to feme barns, on the pretext of attending a court of juftice, when they entered one by one the place where the court was faid to be alTembled, they were fucceffively (tanged by perfons provided for the purpoie. This infamous z&, however, was foon revenged by Wal- lace, who being informed of what had pafled, haft- cned thither that \eiy night, and having difpofed his afTociatei in fuch a manner as that none of the enemy Ihould efcape, fet fire to the barni, and burnt all the Engti(h that were in them. The ireftiges of the barns, where thofe fcenes were tranfa^ed, are yet vifible, A citadel, well fortified with a fofle, and a ftone-wall, was built here by Oliver Cromwell ; but of thefe only for e houfes and angles of the ramparts remain. In the di{lri£l of Cunningham ftands the town of Irvin, fttuated on a riv<:r of the fame name. Here are two handfome ilreets, with a good quay, and a capacious harbour. The chief trade of the place con- fids in coal, which abounds in the neighbouring hil veral apartments, which are very magnificent. Here is a noble gallery, a hundred and forty- feven foot long, adorned with the pictures of all the Scotch kings, from Fergus I. to James VII, inclufive. Thufe kings who were eminent, and all the race of the Stuarts, are drawn in full length, but the others only half length. The apartments in this palace are occu- pied by noblemen, who enjoy the privilege either by hereditary title, or an occafional grant from the crown. On the north-fide of the palace flood the conven- tual church, the roof of which was of great height, and the pillars of as exquifite workmanlhip as thofe of Sr. George's chapel at Windfor. But the greater part of this magnificent chapel fell down in the year 1768, occafioned by the enormous weight of a neyv ftone roof which had lately been laid over it. Adjoining to the palace i.> a park about four miles in circumference, but which has neither any wopd nor deer, and only affords pafture for cattle. In it is a high verdant hill, with a craggy fummit near half a mile in height, called Arthur's Seat, whence Arthur, the Britifh king, it is faid, ufed to view the adjacent country. The precinfls of the palace, and thp park, afford a fanfluary to debtors, in the fame way as the court at St, James's. The number of churches in the city of Edinburgh, and fuburbs, is eleven, exclufive of many epifcopal chapels, and fome meeting-houfes belonging to dif- ferent feds. Of thofe churches four are under the fame roof, namely, the New Kirk, Old Kirk, Tolbooth Kirk, and Haddo's Hole Kirk ; all which before the Re- formation, conflituted one cathedral, dedicated to St. Giles, In the New Kirk is a gallery for the king, or his commiOioner. Here alfo the magillrates hear di- vine fervice every Sunday, as likewife do the judges, in their habits, during the time of feflion. The com- mon Ileeple of thofe four churches is of elegant archi- tecture, with a fummit refembling an imperial crown. In this {lecple is a fet of bells, which are not rung out as in England, but played in the man- ner of a harpfichord ; the perfon who performs hav- ing thick leather covers to his fids, by which he is enabled to flrike with the greater force. For this office he is allowed a falary from the town, and plays ous tunes very mufically, from one to two every day, Sundays and holidays excepted. Contiguous to this church is a fquare of fine build- D E R N [Europe. Ings, called the Parliament- duff, of which the well and fouth fides are occupied by the pailiamcnt-boufe, the feveral courts of judice, the advocates library, the poft office, &c. In this fquare is an equeflrian ilatue of Charles U. reckoned one of the fined in Europe. The parliamcnt-houfe is a large and commodioui flru;ith, where formerly flood a fort, now in ruins. About a mile beyond Holyrood-houfe flands a mag- nificent feat lately built by the earl of Abercorn, and efleemed one of the finefl in Scotland. Farther on is fituated the caftle of Craig Millar, once the refidence of the unfortunate queen Mary ; and more to the fouthward lies the Drum, an elegant feat belonging to lord Somerville ; in whofe park, among other cu- riofities, is the ancient crofs of the city of Edinburgh, which, on being taken down fome years ago, was carefully removed thither by his lordfhip. Two miles hence to the fouth is fituated Dalkeith, a well-built, * populous THE MODERN 508 populoui town, and noted for its excellent market. Almu Vnvr GnUN aha- 1 jvjLr '»> »w tJ •••s* » 'zi -« _L 1 ^r «'« pavilion in i gentleman's garden, placed in a lotty fituation. The cataraa is here full in view, precipi- tating itfelf from rock to rock, with fliort interrup- tions, and bounded on either fide with vaft wooded rocks, on the fummit of one of which is a ruined tovcr. A path conduiSls the traveller down to the begin- tiing of the fair, into which projefls a high rock, that is iiifulatcd in the time of floods, and whence is a tre- mendous view of lUe rtream. In the clifFs of this fa- vage retreat, the brave Wallace is faid to have con- cealed himfelf, meditating revenge on the enemies of his tountry. On regaining tlie'top, the walk ii continued near t!<; verge of the rocks, that on both fides have the appearance of a ftrai^ht wall, except where they overhang the river, which is pent up between them. Having proceeded about halt a mile, on a fuddcn ap- No, 43. lew years. """' . , ' In the higher paft 6f the city (lands the great church, formerly cathedral and metropolitan, dedi- cated to St. Mungo, who is faid to have been blihop here about the year 560. This is a magnificent and (lately edifice, equally remarkable for its (lupendous fixe and curious werkmanfliip, which is difplayed no lefs in the feveral rows of pillars, than in tie exceeding high fpire that rifes from a fquare tower in the centre. This large cathtdral is now divided into feveral churches, one above the other. At a little diftance flandj a ruinous caftle, for-' merly the refidence of the archbiflio?, who was fupe- rior of the ground on which Glafgow is built. It is encompafled with an exceeding high wall of hewn (lone, and has a fine profpcft into the city. The old bridge over the Clyde confifts of fix arches, and was built by William Rea, bittiop of this fee, 6 M »*'0V« 5c po Al loi c«l (hi thi dii in| on '' fou , , « on - . : ' • oh . ^« thif ■ / '■ ;-;,,/ '. - ■ beti caci tinu , cba . ■■' '•• part . ' r of I . . : .. .. . che A emii peni height. Thij had been the ref'tJence of the great family of Sinclairs. Of this houfe was Oliver, fa- vourite of James V. and the innocent caufe of the difcomfiture of the Scots, at the battle of Sol way Mofs, by the chagrin with which the nobility beheld his advancement to the command. He lived many years after this event in great poverty, a fignal in- "^ance of the caprice of fortune, which he empha- tically intimitcd to Arran, the minion of James VI. w!»rn appearing in the prefcnce of that haughty courtier, he uttered only thefe words, " I am Oli- ver Sinclair." In the neighbourhood of this place three vi£lories are faid to have been obtained in one day, by eight thoufand Scots, over three bodies of the Englifb, con- fifling of ten thoufand each, in the year 1302. Not far from Roflin lies • Hawihornden, the feat of the hiftorian and poet, Drummond. The A ;i ) u :"•»'<• ^ /- ;? • i'^ ;r XI o »: ■.i»i(;.-:_s»- ■ vr.a each corner are two towers, with apartments ; and in the centre of the middle court is a curious foun- tain, adorned with feveral fine ftatuei. Here king James V. reftored the orcer of the knights of St. Andrew, and treiSied a throne and flails for them in St. Michael's church, which forms a wing on the right hand of the firft court. This beautiful palace was much damaged by the foldiery in 1745. This town contains between three and fpur thou- fand inhabitants, It carries on a confiderable trade in drefling of white leather, which is fent abroad to be manufaflured. It alfo employs many hands in drefling of flax, and in wooll-combing, Befidcs thofe branches of trade, it has a linen manufaflory ; and the water of the lake is reckoned fo excellent for whitening linen cloth, that great quantities of that commodity are annually fent thither to be bleached. This is a royal borough ; and here the carl of Mur- SCOTtAND ray, 1<"J "'<: killed will) liy ( (>ei>(lcm South froi an ancient t leaning fo »' it to be a tc while othrrs 11 is a circle hills aicthe v A ftw mil beautifully fi manding a p imagined. f|)ondcnt to among the 1 Burrowft extending a enjoyed a co but for fom A little li hnd runnin where in fo confined. Two m [Icher, form Direflini Linlithgow defdalc. 1 ciiilcm»n liamed Hamilton. South from the town, ncir » place ctltcJ Kipi, it an ancient ch.ipcl or altar of great unpulifhed Itdiics, leaning fu ai 10 I'upport one another. Some imagine It to be a temple of TerniinuH built by the Roniani, while others arcribe it to the Cclli or Druids. Near it is a circle of great dunes ) and on two adjacent hills aic the vcdiges of camps^ (uppofed to be Roman. A ftw null's from Linlithgow Itandi Hopton-houfc, beautifully fituatcd on the fide of the Frith, and com- manding a profpefl one of the nubleft that can be imagined. The grandeur of this edifice is corre- fpondcnt to that of its fituation i and juflly ranlci it among the mud magnilicent villas in Great Britain. Burrowftuiintfs cmifillj of one flraggling Dreet, extending along the (lion; of the Frith- It formerly enjoyed a confiderab'u ir.iJc with Holland and France, but for fome years it has much declined. A little to the fouthward upon a narrow point of land running into the Frith, flands Blaclcnefs Caflle, where in former tinies llatc prifoiicrs were frequently confined. Two miles fouth-weft from Linlithgow lies For- (icher, formerly the refidencc of the knighti of Malta. LAN E R K. DireAing our courfe weftward from the (hire of Linlithgow, we arrive in that of Lanerk, or Cly- (lefdalc. The rivet Clyde, which gave name to this ilidriA, rifes in Tinto-hill, nc.ir a place called Ar- rii.k-ftone, on the confines of the llilres of Lanerk and Peebles. At fitft it runs towards the north-wcfl, till being joined by another flreani, it palTes by Crau- furd, and runs almoll dirc£lly liurlh, through the fa- mous moor of the fame name, anciently renowned fur producing gold duft and lapis lazuli, as it ftill is fur the rich mines of lead, belonging to the earl of Hopton. Not far from Lanerk, a fmall town, are the celebrated falls of the Clyde : the mod diftant are about half an hours ride, at a place called Cory- Lynn, i^nd are fcen to moil advantage from a ruinous pavilion in a gentleman's garden, placed in a lofty fituation. The catarafi is here full in view, precipi- tating itfelf from rock to rock, with fliort interrup- tions, and bounded on either fiJe with vaA wooded 'ocks, on the fummit of one of which is a ruined tower. A path conducts the traveller down to the begin- tiing of the fair, into which proje£ts a high rock, that is iiifulated in the time of floods, and whence is a tre- mendous view of (he llream. In the cliffs of this fa- vage retreat, the brave Wallace is faid to have con- cealed himfclf, meditating revenge on the enemies of his aountry. On regaining the 'top, the walk u continued near the verge of the rjcks, that on both fides have the appearance of a ftraii^lu wall, except where they overhang the river, which is pent up between them. Having proceeded about h^lf a mile, on a fudden ap- No. 43. pcirs the great bold fall of Boniton, )n t foaming fhcet, and difperfing a mifl around it a confiderablc way. Above this is another great fall, which ii fue> cccded by two fmaller. Beyond thefe the river widening becomes morefmooth, and purfues its courfe, bounded on one fide by wooded banks, and oa the uther by fertile fields. A little below Lanerk the Clyde is joined by the river iJouglas, which gives the name of Douglafdale to the lands near it. (n a vale adjoining this river llands the old caflle, which had been the paternal feat of the great family of Douglas for many centuries ^ but in the year 1758, it was deflroyed by. acci- dental fire. In this county Aandi Glafgow, a large, handfome, and flourifliing city. The four principal flreeti are perhaps the mod beautiful any where to be Teen. The houfes are all of flone, and generally Uniform in height, ai well as in front. The lower ftories, for the mod part, ftand on vad fqiiare Doric columns, with arches, which open into the (hops. Where the fbur principal ftreeti meet, is a fpacious market-place, in the centre of which dands the crofs ; and at one of the angles, the tolbooth and guild-hall, which is a noble flruAure of hewn done, with a very lofty tower. The great dreets are adorned with various public buildings, but the chief ornament of the place is the college or univerfity, a magnificent fabrick, confiding of fevral courts. A high wall feparates this building from the red of the city, its front to- wards the latter being of hewn done, and excellent architcflure. This univerfity was founded by king James II, in 1453, by virtue of a bull from pope Nicholas V. granting it all the privileges and immunities given by the apodolical fee to the college of Bononia in Italy, for teaching univerfal learning. Many large dt>nations having been made to it at dilFerent times, ts endowments are very conllderable. All the pro- feflbrs are accommodated with handfome houfes, and the dudents, who alfo live within the college, wear gowns, as at Oxford and Cambridge, Belonging :> the univerfity is an excellent collcftion of antiquities; and a fine obfervatory has been ereifled within thefe few years. In the higher part of the city ftands the great church, formerly cathedral and metropolitan, dedi- cated to St. Mungo, who is faid to have been bifliop here about the year 560, This is a magnificent and dately edifice, equally remarkable for its dupendous fise and curious wcu-kmanfliip, which is difplayed no lefs in the feverai rows of pillars, than in the exceeding high fpire that rifes from a fquare tower in the centre. I'his large cathedral is now divided into feverai churches, one above the other. At a little didance dands a ruinous cadle, for- merly therefidence of the archbidiop, who was fupe- rior of the ground on which Glafgow is built. It is encompalTed with an exceeding high wall of hewn done, and has a fine profpefl into the city. The old bridge over the Clyde coniids of fix arches, and was built by William Rea, bifliop of this fee, 6 M kbove 510 THE M O D B a N lEiRort. •b«v« four ImnJrtd ytiri ago. A new one hai liidy been iddcdt of fcvcn archei,wiih circulir hnlct beiwetn cKh, lo carry off ihc water in grtii Aooila. The great import! of thia city are tobacco and rugar t but mtnufaAurei of almoft eyery liinJ are now eftablifl>cdherc{ the herring lifhery ia Ijlicwire very con- Tiderable i and upon the whole, the commerce of GUf- cow ia (b exienrive, ai to entitle it to a rank anion); lb* moft AouriOiing towni in (ireat Ilritain. The Clyde not being navigable to Giafgow but by fmall vefTela, the port of the city ii theiel'ore New- port Glafgow, which ftanda near the mouth ol (he river, and ia a harbour for fhipa of the greateft kurdetl. Farther wcAward on the Frith liea Greenock, a well-built and trading town, where ii a good rpad for vefTcIa, with ■ caftle to command it. Thii ia the chief place in the weft of Scotland for the her- ring fifhing, in which the perfona moflly concerned are the merchanta of Glafgow. Six milea from Glafgow liea Paidey, an irregu* hrly built town, but of confiderable extent. It flanda on both fides of the river Cart, over which it hai three (lone bridges, of two archea each. The river runs from fouih to north, aitd falla into the Clyde •bout three miles below the town. At fpting-tides vefTels of forty tons come up to the quay i but the - inhabiianta being now employed in clearing and deep- ening th« river, it will probably be rendered accefli- blc to tbofe of greater burthen. Here is a flourifh- ing manufaAory of white thread, of which it ii com- puted there > ..iiu>lly made to the amount of forty or fifty thoufand pouidi fterling. Vaft quantities of foreign yarn are imported here from France, Ger- many, and other countries j which the inhabitants manufaflure into lawn, to the amount, as is fuppofed, of feventy thoufand pounds a year. Here is alfo a manufafiory of filk gauze, and ribbor.i, befides fe- veral othera of a more local kind. So gr.-it has been the fpirit of induftry among the inhabit:. . of this town, during the laft thirty years, that .heir number 'n trebled within that period ) being then computed at only four thoufand, but now at twelve thoufand. Many of the buildings in this town are about fix hundred years old ; the greateft curiofity in Paifley is the burying-place of the carl of Abercorn} whidi is an old Gothic chapel, remarkable for an extaordi- ' nary echo. Eight miles fouth of Glafgow is fituated Hamilton, a well-built pleafant town ; contiguous to which is the feat of the duke of Hamilton, a large edifice, and containing many fine paintings. Another town in this county is Ruglen, lying a few miles fouth-eaft of Glafgow. R N W. Weftward of the fliire of Lanerk, or Clyefdale, lies that of Renfrew, the ancient paternal eftate of the Stuarts before they fucceedcd to the crown of Scot- land I and which yet gives the (itle of baron to his royal bighnefs the prince of Wales. It is a pleafant country, and well fiiu,iied fcr (.oinntirce, in whxh it is rdei, vefliils of tolerable burthen are brought up to the bridge. The inhabitants cul- tivate much the Irifh trade ^ and having the benL-fit of a public ferry, derive no finall advantage from the corrcfpondcnce between the fluuntiea on both (idea the Frith. Between the Friih of Clyde that of Forth, the Ro- mans creeled a fence, called .Severui't wall, Adrian'* wall, or Graham's dyke, of which many vcftiges yec remain. But this iflhnius is now diflinguifhed by • public work of a diftVrent, and far more beneiici»l nature, which is a navigable canal thirty miles in length, that unites thufe great rivers, and forms ■ communication for internal commerce betweca tht eaft and weft coafts of Scotland. DUMBARTON; North from Renfrew is fituated the fliire of Dum- barton or Lenox - Dunbarton, as it was anci- ently (lyled. Dumbrition, the chief town of the fltire, and a royal boroujh, is fituated fixteen milea north-weft of Glafgow, at the confluence of the ri- vers Leven and Clyde. This is » place of great anti- quity, and famous for its impregnable caftie. In this county is Loch- Lomond, one of the largeft lakes in Scotland, being upwards of twenty miles in length, and, except at the itoith-end, generally ab'^ui: eight miles broad. It receives many rivers, but emp- ties itfelf by one mouth into the Frith of Clyde. It contains thirty illands, three of which have churches, and feveral of the reft are inhabited. The principal of thofe is Incb-mutin, about two miles and a half long, fruitful in corn and grafs, and abounding in deer, for the hunting of which the kings of ScoilanJ frequently reforted thither. The other moft re.ii.irk- able are, Nachaftel, fo called from an old caftie that ftands upon it ; Iiichdavanan, noted for broom, wild berries, pleafant habitations, gardeiu, and fruit- trees i Inchennougon, diflinguifhed for birch- trees and corn-fields ; and Iiichnolalg, for yew-trees, which grow no where elfe in thefe illands. Loch-Lomond a'LOunds with fi(h of various kinds, particularly a fort called poans, or pollocks, peculiar to it. Near this lake begin the Grampian mountains, which run north-eall to Aberdeen, STIRLINGSHIRE, Proceeding eaflward, we enter Stctlingfhire, the ca- pital of which is Sterling. Thi| town is fituated, like Edinburgh, on the ridge of a hill, llnplng on each fide, and the {Ireet gradually afcending to the cafti,* SCOTLAN cadle, whiih well buill, *< ants. In church, » ■II,! adorned hofpilal for by James Co the gat*, r and though i burgh, is ell< palace, built ■ fquarc forn rrfting on wall I •">• ° tue. Two ro ry, are large partmcnt* ol farliiment-li foot long, h The noble traveller. T adorned wli Forth, the large, that diftance by twenty-four, abbey of Car mannan. Fa try as far as bills, where 17151 onJ fertile as tl highland mi Ben-Lomon Near the a little wooi neath, on tl longing to of the tim( and curious the fantafti the Ladies- and addrefs tournameni fpot and tt Among the nobilit Mar, buil adorned W ture. The nu at four ih tans, (hall confifta ol and the t Stirlin empire ir ftone, b( ing that there. The for fome Scotland.] GENERAL TRAVELLErt. i«< cMt, whith ftaniJi it Iht wtlt enJ. Ii it Urge, an«i well buill, aiiil conliim ibnul fuur thouriiul inhibit ■iKi. Ill the uppar p4rl of ihe (own (Undi the church, » fpacioui building, uf |;(io> hjve been txploralury mounts, and by oiheii to have been fepulchral. A few miles lower flood the celebrated piece of antiquity called Arthur's Oven, fuppofcd to have been a Roman trmpic of Terminus t which was a few yeari ago defrayed by a more than Cioihic knight, who mada ufe of the ftoiies to builJ a mill. Over the Carron it a bridge of ohe .nch, finely built of free-flune t but the fhoret being flat, it tifea lb high, at tn appear tremendous to lOany paOrengari. There was a nectfliiy for building it with one arch only, for no piers in the middle of the channel could have fuilained the flioek of the great ftonct whicH fomeiimet are brought down by the ftream. On the fide of this river it fituated the great fuundery lately eflabli(!;ed > in which it is faid that not lefs than feven hundred men are condanily cm- ployed, Falkirk is a large, ill. built town, fupportcd by the great fairs for black cattle from the Highlands ) it be- ing computed that twenty- four thoufand head are an- nually fold here. Near the town are many veftiges of the Roman wall, ereded by Lollius Urbicus, The wall was of turf 1 in this place the breadth of it was forty foot, and that of the ditch thirteen foot. A few miles north from Falkirk lies the village of Bannockb-jrn, famous in the Scotch hiftory for tha battle fought in its neighbourhood, between king Ro> bert de Bruce, and the Englifh army, commanded bjr Edward II. in perfon ) in which the latter was routed with great flaughter, and the king with much difli- culty efcaped. This place it alfo remarkable for the murder of king James III. in an iufurre£lion beaded by his fon ; who, in token of penance, ever after wore round his body an iron chain. Not far hence are the relics of the Torwood, noted for having been the refuge of the famous Wallace. Some remains of an oak, under which the hero is faid to have repofcd, ate ftill pointed out with great ve- neration, ^ CLACKMANNAN and KINROSS.' Contiguous to Stirlingfhire, on the north-eaft, lie the two fmall (hires of Clackmannan and Kinrofs. The town of Clackmannan it picafantly fituated on a hill, floping on every fide. On the fvminit ftanda the caftle, which commands a noble view. This place w «s long the refidenoe of the chief of the Brucei t and the large fquare tower it called after the name of Robert Bruce, whofe great fword and ?afque are ftill prefervei here. The hill is beavtifully wooded, and, with the tower, forms a piifturefque objcA. Kinrofs it a fmall town, but tolerably well- built, and has a good market. It is fituated near Loch-Leven, a magnificent piece of water, about twelve miles in circumference. In this lake are dif- perfed fome iflands, one of which is large enough to feed feyeral head of cattle : but the moft remarkable is that diftinguiflied by the captivity of Mary queen of Scots, which ftands almoft in the middle of the lak«. ' I lit H M D R N [Europe. SCOTL lake. Theciftle ftill remains, confiding of a Tquare tower, a rmal! yard, with two round towers, a cha- pel, ar.d the ruins of a building, where, it is faid, the unfortunate princefs was lodged. In the fquare tower it a dungeon, with * vaulted room above, over which Lad been three other flories. This caflle had bern originally a feat of the Culdees. At the weft end of the lake ftands a besiutiful houfr, ereAed by Sir William Bruce, furveyor- general of the works in the reign of Charles II. and remarkable for bis excellent tafte in architeAure. The town of Culrofs, on the borders of Perth- ihire, is alfo diftingulflied for a .nagnificent houfe, built about the year 1590, by Edward lord Kinlols, better known in England by the name of lord Bruce, fiain in the noted duel between him and Sir Edward Sackville. Here are ftill to be fecn the remains of the Ciflrrcian abbey, founded by Malcolm earl of Fife, in i2iy. This is a royal borough, and famous for making girdles, or round places of iron, on which, in Scotland, the inhabitants bake their oaten cakes. Alloa is fituated on the Frith of Forth, and is a well-built town, with rows of trees planted along the principal ftreer. In the harbour fhips of burd'.n may fide with fafety. This town contains about five thou- fand inhabitants ; and its trade is very confiderable, particularly in coal, of which it is faid to export an- nually above forty thoufand tons. At this place the late earl of Mar had a fine feat, for- merly called the Caftle of Alloa, which has been completely modernixed by the proprietor. The gar- dens belonging to it are the fineft in Scotland, confift- ing of about forty acres of ground ; contiguous to which it a wood, above three times as much in extent, and well laid out in avenues and viflos adapted to the boafe. CHAP. HI. • t .1.-;; -.•EWJj '1. ••. -Fiftt Mid Ferfar. FIFE. PASSING the river Forth caflward, we entsr the Roman Caledonia, the name anciently appro- priated to the country on the north of this river, and arrive in the fliire of Fife. This diftrift is faid to hnve received its appellation from Fyfus, furnamed DufFus, to whom it was granted by king Kenneth II. for his valour againft the PiS*, about the year 840. His defcendents were firft called thanes of Fife, and afterwards created earls by Malcolm II. about the middle of the eleventh century. This county is not only fertile, but one of the moft populous in Britain, if •".•* except the environs of London > the whole coaft from Crail to Cuirofs, about forty miles, being one continued chain of towns and villages. The chief town is Cowper, lying about the middle of the diftrift, pieafantly fituated on the bank of the river Eden. It is a royal borough, but from its inte- rior fituation, lefs flouriihing than feveral other towns in the fliire. The firfl of thofe that we meet, in coafting the fliire, is the borough «f Innerkcithing, an ancient walled town, large and populous, with a fpa. clous harbour, but which has fome time been inijch negle£ied. Eaftward, .-it a fmall diftance from each Other, lie the towns of Dunibriffil, Aberdour, Burnt- ifland, Kinghorn, and Kitkaldie. At Do£lan, about four miles from the latter, ffands an ancient column, faid to have beeh ercfled in memory of a viflory ob- tained over the Danes In 874, under the leaders Hun- gar and Hubba, by the Scots, commanded by king Conftantine 11. The ftone is between fix and feveu foot high, and morlifed at the bottom into another. It is now much defaced by time, but two rude figures of men on horfcback are Aill difcernibic ; and on the other (ides may be traced a running pattern of ornament. fi'yond Kirkaldie, and likewife fituated on the coaft, lie the towns of Dyfart, Pittenweem, Anftruther- Wefter, Anflruther-Eafler, Kilrinny, Crail, and St. Andrew's. The city of St. Andrew's is one of the moft an- cient, and had formerly been one of the moft flou- rlfliing towns in Scotland ; but it is now prodigioiifly decayed. According to the authority of legend, St. Andrew's owes its origin to a fingular accident. Sr. Regttlus, or St. Rule, a Greek of Achaia, was warnea by a vifion to leave his native country, and vifit Albion, an ifland placed in the rcmoteft part of the world ; and to take with him the arm-bone, three lingers, and three toes of St. Andrew. He obeyed, and fetting fail with his companions, after a difficult na- vigation, was, in 370, at length fliipwrecked en the coafts of Otholania, in the territory of Harguflus, king of the Pifts. The king, on hearing of the ar- rival of the pious ffrangers, with their precious relics, g?ve orders for their reception ; and prefenting the faint with his own palace, built near it the thurch, which to this day bears the name of Regulus. This place was then ftyled Mucrofs, or the Land of Boars. All round was fortft ; and the lands bc- ftowed on the faint were called Byrehid. The boars equalled in fize the Erymanthian j in proof of which, two tufks were chained to the altar of St. Andrcvv, each fixtecn inches long, ana four thick. On entering the weft part of this town, a well- built ftreet, ftrait, and of vaft length, prefents it- felf, but fo unfrequented, and overgrown with grafs, as to excite the idea of its having been laid wade by the peftilence. This extraordinary defolation was owing to the fury of the reformers in 1559, who in one day demolilhcd the moft magnificent buildings in the city, which has never fince recovered its ancient fplendor. The cathedral here was founded In ii6r, by bifhop Arnold, but was not completed till the year 1318. Its length from eaft to weft was three hundred and feven- ty-two foot, and thar of the tranfept three hundred and twenty-two. Of this fuperb pile nothing remains but part of the eaft and weft ends, and the fouth fide. Near the eaft end is the chapel of Sf. Regulus, a fin- gular edifice. The tower is a fquare of twenty foot each fide, and a hundred and three high. The body of the chapel remains, but the two fide chapels arc deniolifbed. The arches of the windows and doors 7 *'* '■■'th a fpa. «n much fom each "■» Burnt- 3n, about t column, iSlory ob- ders Hun- by king and feveii •mother. It figures of the other lament, the coaft, nftruther- and St. Scotland.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 513 are round, fom« even form more than fcmicircle* ; a mode of building which aflTorda convincing proof of their great antiquie/. On the eaft fide of the city are the fmall remains of the cr.ilte, on a rocic orge, that it afforded a reticat to his enemies. Part of the church is at prefent in ufc. It is fup- ported by three rows of maHy pillars, hardly feven- teen foot high, and thirteen and a half in ciicum- ference. Two are ribbed fpirally, and two marked with zig-sag lines, in the manner of thofe at Durham. The arches are round, in the Saxon flyle. Here Mal- colm and his queen, with fix, other kings, lie buried ■ the iirft two apart, and the others under as many flat iiones, each nine foot long. Under the pulpit in this church, is faid to lie the body of the great king Robert Brucc^ whofe heart, according to his direi5lion, was fent to be interred in the Holy Land. Here alfo is the tomb of Robert Piicairn, abbot, or rather commendator, of Dumfermline, and fecretnry of flate in the minority of Jam<^s VI. He is dittinguifhed by the following epitaph. Hie cltus eft licroi moilica Robertui In urna ■*■' Pitcarnui, patria cclmnenque fuet : ^uim virtus, gravitas gtnerofo peSlore digna Ornaiant vera ii :nm pictale fdes. Poji varios vitcs Jiutliis jam tnoli relida Corporis, efyftiim pergit in umbra nemus. Between Dumfermline and the fhorc are (itiiated the lime-kilns, belonging to the earl of Elgin, the greatcA perhaps in the univerfe; placed amidfl inex- hauilible beds of lime-flune, and near immenfe feams of coal. The kilns range in a flraight line, with their openings beneath a covered way, formed by arches and pillars in front, into a magnificent colonnade, They lie beneath the ftrata of lime-flone, which, when broken, is conveyed into them by a number of rail-roads. For ihipping the lime, either burnt or crude, a convenient pier has been ereded. A hundred and twenty men are conftantly employed in this work ; and a little town is built for them. Falkland is fituated about the diftance of eight or ten miles from Dumfermline, at the bottom of Lo- mond-hill, and is a neat little town, refembling Woodltock in Oxfordfliire. It is a borough corpo- rate, of which the king is always provoft. Here flood one of the feats of the MacdufFs, carls of Fife. On the attainder <,!' MurJo Stuart, the feventeenth earl, in 1424, it became forfeited to the crown, and was afterwards much improved by James V. From the part that remains, its former magnificence is evi- dent. The whole ftruilure, which is of great length, is built of hewn Done ; anJ the front of it was r.durned with ftatues, heads in bas relief, and elegant columns, not reducible to any order, but of fine proportion, with capitals approaching the Ionic. The gateway is placed between two fine round towers On the right hand is the chapel, the roof of which is of wood, ^landfumcly gilt and painted, but now in a ruinous 1 2 ' D E R N [Europe. condition. Beneath are feveral apartments, feme of which are at prefent inhabited. This place was alfo a fiivourite refldence of James VI. on account of the fine park, and plenty of deer. The cafl.fide was accidentally burnt in the time of Charles U. and the park was deflroyed during Crom- well's ufurf ation, when the fine oaks wt. ' cut down in order to ouild the port at Perth. In the oIq caftic, David duke of Rothefay, fon to Robert III. wras cruelly ftarved to death by ihc vil- lany of his uncle the duke of Albany. For fome time his life was fuppoited by the charity of two women; one of whcm fupplied him with oaten cakes, conveyed through the prilon grates ; the other, a wet-nun'e, with milk, conveyed by means of a pipe. Both of them were deteifled, and barbaroufly put to death. Near the palace arc fevera' houfes, built and be- llowed by James VI. on liis attendants, who have re- corded his liberality by grateful infcriptions. Of this pabcc and the adjoining park the duke of Athol is hereditary keeper. Within a few miles of Falkland lies Melvil, a handfonie kat belonging to the earl of Leven. In the garden is a fquare tower, one of the fummer re- treats of cardinal Beaton ; and near it is Cardan's well, named from that celebrated phyfician, who was invited thither in 1552, to prefcribe for HamiltOD, archbifliop of St Andrew's, on his having been feized with an allhma. Cardan efle£led his cure ; and, by catling the nativity of his patient, is, faid to have fore- told the ignominious fate by which he died. The prelate was afterwards hanged on a tree at Stirling, and the following cruel farcafm compofed on the occafion. Vive tliu, ftUx arbor, ftmperque vireto Frondibus, ut nobis lalia poma firas. In a field near the village of Lundie , are three vail upright flones ; the largell is fixteen foot high, and its folid contents two hundred and feventy. There are fragments of three otheri ; but fo fituated that it is iinpoffible to form any conjeAure of their original difpofition. 'Near this place the Danes met with a confiderable defeat from the Scots, under the conduA of Macbeth and Banquo. It is therefore pro- bable that thofe (tones are monuments of the vi£lory. A great part of thi^ county abounds in collieries, where may be obferved a multitude of circular holes, furrounded with a mound, and filled with water. Thefe are called coal-heughs, and were once the fpi- racles or vent holes to the pits, before the art of min- ing was well known. The ftrata of coal are of great thickncfs, fome at leafl nine yards. Many of the beds have been on fire above two centuries. The vio> lence of the conflagration has now ceafed, but it flill continues in a certain degree ; as is evident in ti.Tie of fnow, which melts in ftreams on the furface wherever there are any fiflures. j Towards the juniSlion of Fife and Strathern, not far from the road, is Mugdrum Crofs, an upright pillar, with fculplurc on each fide, much defaced ; but Hill may be traced the figures of horfemen, and beneath SCOTI SCOTIAND.I GENERAL TRAVELLER. J15 beneath them thofe of fome animals. Near this place Aood the :ro(i of the famous Macduff, thane of Fife ; of which nothing but the pcJeftal has been left for above a century paft. On it arc faid to be infcribed certain macaronic, or half Latin verfes, which Mr, Cunningham, who wrote an rfTay on the crofs, iranf- latei Into a grant of Malcolm Canmore, to the earl of Fife ; of feveral emoluments and privileges. Among others he allows it to be a fanfluary to any of Mac- dufPs kindred, within the ninth degree, who (hall be acquitted of any manflaughter, on flying to this crofs, and paying nine cows and a heifer. Near Balvaird, was formerly a rDcking ftone, eflccmed a remarkable curiufity. Being broken by Oliver Cromwell's foldiers, its motion was found to have been performed by an egg-fliap;il protuberance of its under furface, at the middle, which was in- ferled in a cavity of a flat (lone that lay under it. The vaft bulk of the upper flone, which was globu- lar, aflifted by two or three furrounding flat ftones, fo cflieAually concealed the caufe of the motion, that the phenomenon was regarded as miraculous, and fre- quently ufed as an engine of judicial trick, during the 'times of fuperRition and prieflcrafr. Near the fouth-eaft extremity of P'ife lies the ifland of May, about a mile in length, inacceflible on the weftern fide. Thi? place was fampus in former times for the fhrine of St. Adrian, the frequent refort of barren women ; but the only condant inhabitant at prefent is faid to be the man who attends the light- houfe cftablifhed by government on the ifland. Crofling the river Tay from Fife, we enter the ihire of Forfar or Angus, a part of Scotland likewife remarkable for its fertility. Here (lands Dundee, a well built town, fituated on the slluary of the Tay, and faid to contain near fourteen thoufand inhabitants. The (Ireets are large and handfome, and the market- place one of the (ineft in Scotland, The town-houfe is alfo a fine building ; and a church h''s lately been rre£led in a ftyle of great elegance. The old church here appears to have been extremely magnificent, from the remains of the choir, which is ftill ufed as a place of wor(hip ; but the body of the ancient ca- thedral being del^royed, its Gothic tower, a venerable and fuperb (lru£lure, is now left (landing by itfeif. The town lying at a little diftance from the river, they are joined by a caufeway or wall, well-paved with flat free- (lone. Rows of trees are planted on each fide ; and on one part of this wall arc good warehoufes. The manufadures and trade of this town are very confidcrable. The former confifls of linen, efpecially Ofnabrughs, fail-cloth, cordage, thread, thread-ftockings, buckrams, tnr led leather, and (hoes, for the London market ; befiJes hats and fugar, which are now m»de here in great quantities. About forty years ago here was a manufacture of coarfe woollen cloth, called plaiden, which was ex- ported undrcfTed, to Sweden, Germany, and the United Province!^, for cloathing the troops of thofe countries j but this branch of trade was fuperfeded by that of Ofnabrughs, which are now the (laple of .he country. Thefe are (hipped for London, New* caftle, Leith, Burrowftonnefs, and Glafgow, whence they are fent to the Wefl-Indies and America, for the cloathing of the (laves. To the fame places are alfu exported thread, foap, (hoes, leather, and fadlery goods. To Sweden and Norway are fent potatoes, and dre/Engs of flax ; in times of plenty, when ex- portation is allowed, corn, meal, and flour. The falmon taken near Broughty-Caftle is fent to Holland. In refpei£l of imports, this town receives fromNorth- America, Ruflia, Memel and Dantzick, Sweden, Nor- way, Spain, and Portugal, the ufual exports of thofe countries ; and from Holland, undreft flax, for the manufadlure of thread and fine linens, pot-a(he», lin-feed, clover-feed, old iron and madder, for the ufc of dyers. This town was the birth-place of the celebrated He£lur Boetius, the Scotch hiftorian. In the interior part of this diflridl, weftward, liei Forfar, the county-town, which contains about two thoufand inhabitants. Here, and in the neighbour- hood, are confiJerable manufactures of line.is, from four pence to feven pence a yard, comnuted to amount annually to twenty thoufand pounds, No veftiges now remain of the caftle, which ftood on a fmall hill near the town ; snd the lake, which it faid to have once furrounded the place, has been of late years confiderably reduced by draining; for the fake of ob- taining the fine marie which lies at the bottom. This manure is found in (Irata from three to ten foot thick. The land improved with it yields four crops fuccef- fively : after which it is laid down with barley and clover. About a mile north of Forfar ftood the cell or priory of Reflennot, dependent on the abbey of Jed- burgh. It was fituated in a lake, and acceflible only by a draw-bridge ; on which account the monks of Jedburgh depofited here their pliers, and all their valuable eflxCis, In the neighbourhpod of Forfar is a moor, noted for being the fcene of a battle in the year 831, be* tween the PiCls and Scots, when the Latter, com- manded by Alpin, obtained the vidiory ; in memory of which a great cairn, or heap of (tones, called Pi£ts Cairnlcy, has been raifed near the fpot. The bafe is faid to have been once furrounded with a range of great upright columns ; but there remains only one, which is eleven foot high, feven broad, and eighteen in circumference. Five miles farther is the caftle of Glamis, the feat of the earl of Strathmore. The ancient buildings here appear to have been of great extent. The whole conlifted of two long courts, in each of which was a fquare tower, and a gateway beneath. In the build- ings that divided the two courts flood a third tower, whiih conftitutes the prcfcnt houfe, taintid over the Danes, by the chief of the family of Keith, earl marftial, who, having killed the Dtitifi) general, was advant-ed to great honours by Malcolm SCOTLANI we are ie finda with a at the I gaining corn, re lite. ifulated Im their l», ai!d P''i th.ie BW only khe tops (it'''i'iiii^ les the a too Scotland.] CENERAL TRAVELLER. Malcolm IL Over the grave of the invader was erefled a high ftone, with fomc antique letters and fculpture, ilill called Camui's crofs, froni his name. At the diftaiice of ten miles is a fimilar monument, over the grave of another Danifh warrior. Not far hence (lands the ruined caftle of Finhaven, once the feat of the Lindfays, earls of Crawford. A few years ago here was a Spanifli chefnut-trec of a vaft fize, the circumference of which, near the ground, meafured forty-two foot eight inches. Above the caftle is the hill of Finhaven, a great ridge, with a vaft extenfive hollow in the top. Along the edges are huge mafles of ftone, ftrongly cemented by a lava, or a femivitrified fubflance. Thefe mafles appear to be each of a ton weight. They have been procuied out of the hiti, and were placed as a de- fence to the inclufed area, which had anciently been a Britifli poft. Mr. Pennant is of opinion that this hill is the c(Fe£l of a volcano. At one end of the hollow are two great apertures of a funnel fliape, the craters, as is fuppofed, through which the mat- ter had been ejefted. One of them is fixty foot ii. diameter, and above thirty deep. It bad once been much deeper, but was from time to time rendered more fliallow by the flinging in of ftones, to pre- vent the lofs which arofe from cattle frequently fall- ing into it. On both fides of the hill arc found, in digging, great quantities of burnt earth, that ferves all the purpofes of the pulvls puleolanui, fo frequent in countries that abound with volcanoes. Near the bottom of the hill ftands Aberlemni, where are fome curious carved ftones, fuppofed to have been creflcd in memory of fome vidorics over the Danes. At the diftance of a few miles from Brechin, is a range of black heathy hills, one of which is divided into two fummits, the higher named the White, and the lower the Black Catter-thun, from their different colours. Both were Caledonian pofts, and the for- mer was of uncommon ftrength. It is a ftupendous dyke of an oval figure, compofed of loofe white ftones, the convexity from the bafe within to that without, being a hundred and twenty-two foot. The whole is furrounded by a deep ditch ; and at the diftance of a hundred yards are the veftigcs of another, that went round the hill. The area within the ftony mound is flat; the length of the oval being four hundred and thirty- fix yards; and the tranfverfc diameter two hundred. Near the eaft-fiJe is the foundation of a rectangular building ; and on moft parts are the foundations of others, f.nall and circular. There is alfo a hollow, which had once been a well, now almoft filled with ftones. The other is called Black, from the colour of the ramparts, which are compofed only of earth. It is of a circular form, cunfifting of various eccentiic dykes. On one fide of it ilTues a fmall ftrcam, which running down the hill, has formed a deep gully. From the fide of the fortrefs ftretches another ram- part, which extends parallel to the ftream, and then reverts, forming an additional place of ftrength. Not far from this range of hills are three Roman cnnips, the veftigcs of which, however, are difficult '-'• . 43- 5^7 to be traced. It is fuppofed they were Occupied by Agricola ; and that before one of them he drew up his forces to receive the enemy. Of thcfe is one at Ruthie near Brechin, a fecond near Caerboddo, be- tween Forfar and Panmure ; and a third called Bat- tledikes, near Kennymoor, C H A P. IV. 7 lit Shirts of Ptrth, Argylty and Invtrnefs. Proceeding weftward from Angus w« ■*■ enter Perthfliire, an extenfive county lying in the middle of Scotland ; and on its borders, our no- ticc is attrafled by Belmont, the feat of the right In the environs of this place hon. Stuart Mackenzie. lay the laft fccne of the tragedy of Macbeth. Here is ftiewn his tumulus, called Belly Dufl^, or, as Mr. Pennant conjeflures, rather the memorial of his fall j for to tyrants he obferves, no fuch refpc£l was paid. The fame ingenious traveller remarks, that, from the final fyllable, it more probably has been intended as a monument to perpetuate the memory of the gallant Mac DufT. It is a verdant mount, furrounded by two terrifTcs, with a cap at top, flladed by broad- leaved laburnums, of great antiquity. In a field on the other fide of the houfe is a mo- nument to the memory of the brave young Seward, who was flain on the fpot by Macbeth. It confifts of a ftupendous ftone, twelve foot high above ground, and eighteen foot and a half in girth in the thickeft part. Below the furface of the earth it reaches only two foot eight inches. The weight is computed at upwards of twenty tons ; and what muft increafe out idea of the pains which were bcftowed in thofe times on ereiling monuments, no ftone of the kind is to be found within twenty miles. Near it is a fmill firr-ilus, called Dufl"'8-know, where fome other •ommander is fuppofed to have fallen ; and the church* yard abounds in monuments, adorned with hierogly- phic columns, and a variety of ancient fculpture. On quitting Belmont we pafs beneath the famous hill of Dunfinnan, on the fouth-fide of Strathmore ; on the fummit of which ftood the caftle, the refidence of Macbeth, fpill in view of Birnham wood, on the oppofite fide of the plain. No place could be better adapted for the feat of a jealous tyrant : the fidei: are fteep, and of the moft difficult afcsnt ; and the fummit commands an extenfive view. Now, however, there are no remains of this celebrated fortrefs ; the fite of it is a verdant area, of an oval form, fifty- four yards by thiity, and furrounded by two deep ditches. On the north is a hollow road cut through the rock, leading up to the entry, which lies on the north-eaft, facing a deep narrow chafm, between this and an adjacent hill. To aflift in fortifying this place, Macbeth fummoncd the thanes from all parts of the kingdom ; when Mac DiifF alone refufing to comply with the order, the enraged tyrant threatened to put round his neck the yoke that was on the oxen which were labouring up the fide of the hill, A little to the eaftward is a hill, called the King's 6 Q beat. S»8 THE MODERN [Europe. Scat, comman Vmg a more extenfive view than Dun- finnan, and wheie tradition reports that Macbeth ufed to lit, as on a watch- tower. The capital of this county is the city of Perth, which is fituated between two grecH plains, called Inches, on the fouth bank of the river Tay, over which here is a fine bridge lately ere£led. The town confifti of three long (Ireets, and feveral others run- ning acrofs i and on every fide, except towards the river, it is furrounded by an old wall, now in ruins. It wa« formerly called J ohnfton, or St. John's Town, from an old church dedicated to the evangelift St, John, which yet remains, and is fo large as to make two parochial churches. The ancient city having been dcftroyed by !>:i innundation of the Tay, an adjoining fpot was chofen for the fite of the new town. Here formerly was a magnificent abbey, often the refidence of the kings, and the place in which James I, was barbaroufly aflaffinated. The chief buflnefs of this town is the r.ianufaAure of white and brown linens, of which about feventy- five thoufand pounds worth is annually fent to Lon- don, befides a great quantity that is difpofed of at Edinburgh and Glafgow. It is computed that London and Glafgow take likewife every year about ten thou- fand pounds wort I of linen yarn. Lintl'eed-oil, likewife, forn'.s a confiderable branch of its commerce. Seven water-mills belonging to this place are in full employ, and make, nt an average, near three hundred tons ^f oil, which is chiefly fent to London, and brings in annually from eight to nine thoufand pounds. The exports of wheat and barley are from twenty- four to thirty thoufand bolls. Confiderable quantities of tallow, bees- wax, drefled fheep-fkins, dreiTed and raw calves-fkiiis, and raw goats-flcins, are alfo fhipped from this place ; and the exports of falmon to London and the Mediterranean are valued from twelve to fourteen thoufand pou.ids a year, Thr<>r rhoufand of this fifh have been caught in one morning, weighing, one with another, fix- teen pounds a-piece. The river is navigable to the town for fliips of good burden ; and the bridge over it is the moft beautiful ilruflure of the kind in North Britain, Its length is nine hundred foot, It confifts of nine arches, of which that in the centre is feventy-five foot in diameter. Several preceding bridges had been built at this place, but were fuccefllvely wafhed away by the violence of the floods,' About a mile and a half from Perth, on the north fide of the river, ftands the celebrated palace of Scone, fituated amidft beautiful woods, and at a fmill diftance from the river. This is fuppofed by fome to have been the capital of the Pi£ls ; but it certainly was the feat of the kings of Scotland as early as the time of Kenneth, and the place where all the fuc- ceeding monarchs of the country were ufually crowned. The building is large, as are alfo the royal apart- ments, and, though ancient, yet not much decayed. The front extends in length about two hundred foot. and there are two fine courts, befides two others, con- taining offices, outhoufea, &c. The celebrated wooden chair, with the (lone in it was brought tiience by Edward I, and placed in We(l. minfler-abbey, where it has ever fince remained. The removal of this flone, which had been fuperftitioudy regarded as the palladium of the Scottifh kings, was beheld by the nation with univerfal regret ; but the fuc>.cGl^., of the royal liiie of Scotland to the Engliflt crown, in the perfon of king James, verified the fol- lowing prophetic difticb, which had for ages been applied by the people to this venerated object of their attachment, Ni fallat fatum, Scell, quocunjut heatum Invtniint lapidim, rignart lentntur ibidim. This ftone is faid to have been fird dignified ly Kenneth, who having here fought a bloody battle with the Pi£ls, in which they were totally defeated, fat down to reft himfcif upon it j when his nobles, ia the height of their congratulation, crowned him with a garland of vi£lory. The flone was henceforth de- dicated to the coronation of the kings of Scotland, as a happy prefage of their profperity. Here is ilill ^o be feen the mount on which the courts of juftice were held, fo well known by the name of Moos Placiti de Scona, the Mote-hill of Scone, The hereditary keeper of this palace i* the vifcount of Stormont. Within a few miles of Perth, in a very fertile trafl, is Loncarty, celebrated for the fignal vidlory obtained by the Scots, under Kenneth III, over the Danes, by means of the gallant pcafant Hay, and liis two fons, who, with no other weapons than yokes, which they fnatched from their oxen then at plough, firft put a ftop to the flight of their countrymen, and afterwards led them on to conquefl. Tradition relate;, that the monarch gave this deliverer of his country, in reward, as much land as a greyhound would run ovei' in a certain time, or a falcon would furround in its flight ; and the ftory fays that he chofe the latter. The noble families of Hay derive their defcent from this ruflic hero ; and, in memory of the afiion, bear for their arms the inftruments of the vi£lory, with the allufive motto. Sub jugo. In the adjacent fields is a number of tumuli, in which ate frequently found bones, and entire (ke'e- tons, fome lodged in rude coiirns, formed of flones, and others dcpofited only in the earth. In one place is a flone (landing upright, fuppofed to mark the fpot where the Danifb leader was buried. The prefcnc names of the places on the plain feem to allude to the a£)ion, and the vanquilhed en^my, Turn-ag-cin-hil- lock probably points out the place uliere the Scots rallied, and a fpot near eight tumuli, called Danemark, may denote the place of greateft (laughter. Not far hence, on the banks oi a fmall rill, are vcdiges -of an encampment, as is fuppofed, of the Danes, and to have been called, from ,thofe invaders, Gally-Burn, or the Burn of the Strangers. Three Scotland.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 5»9 Three milei weflward of Perth liei the Moor of Methvin, noted for being the fcene of a battle be* twecn Robert Bruce and Aymer de Valence, earl of Pembroke, in 1306. Neat this place, on the bank of the river Almond, were interred the fair friends, Beflie Bell and Mary Gray, two neighbouring beauties, celebrated in a well-known Scotch ballad, compofed by a lover, who was deeply (Iricken with the charms of both. One was the daughter of the laird of Rinvaid, the other of the laird of Lednoch. A peftilence that raged in 1666, determined them to retire from the danger. They fe- lc£)cd a romantic and fequeftered fpot, on the fide of Brauchie-bUrn, where They bigged a bower on yon burn brar. And thick'd it o'er with rufhes. Here they lived for fome time, and, as fhould Teem, without jealuufy ; for they received the vifits of their lover, till, catching the infeflion, they both died, and were interred in the lands of Lednoch, a( Dro- nach-haugh. Sufpending our progrefs to the north and weft, till we have taken a fhort view of the fouth part of Perth- .'hire, we (hall proceed to Dumblain. This town is pleafantly fituated on the bank of the river Allan, four miles north of Stirling. It was made a bifhoprick by king David 1. and the ruins of the bilhop's and ca- nons houfes are yet to be fr^n, as are alfo thofe of a church, of excellent workmanfhip. Here is a public library, bequeathed to the town by one of the bifhops, with an endowment for its fupport. At Ardoch, about fix miles north of this town, are the veftiges of a Roman camp, the trenches of which, and the prsetorium, are extremely confpicuous. Farther north are two others, one at Stragith, and the other at Comerie. In the latter is feon a multi- tude of oblong hollows, lying parallel to each other, and feparated by banks three foot wide, on the outfide of the northern agger. Mr. Pennant, at whofe deflre the ground in this part was dug, informs us that no- thing was found in it but large quantities of charcoal ; on which account he is of opinion that thofe hollows were intended for dre.Ting the provifions of the fol- diery, and that they were not places of interment, as h' ' been formerly conje£lured. In the fouth-eaft part of the county, on the border of Fife, is the Rumbling-brig at Glen-devon, a bridge of one arch, thrown over a chafm worn by the river Devon, about eighty foot deep, very narrow, and hor- rible to look down. The bottom, in many parts, is covered with fragments of rocks ; in others, the wa- ters are vifiblc, gufliing between the ftones with great violence. The fides in many places project, and al- moft lock in each other. Trees Tnoot out in various fpots, and contribute to increafe the gloom of the fcene, which refounds with the cawing of daw:, the cooing of wood-pigeons, and the impetuous no'fe cf the waters. A mile lower down is the Cawdron-glen. Here the river, after a (hort fall, drops on rocks hollowed into large cylindric cavities, open on one fide, or formed into great circular cavities, like caldroni, whence the place derives its name. One in particular hia the appearance of a vaft brewing-vefTel, and the water, by its great agitation, has acquired a yellow fcum, ex- aflly refembling the yeafty workings of malt-liquor. Beneath this cavity, the water darts down about thirty foot, in form of a great white (beet ; the rocks below widen confiderably, and their cliffy fides arc fringed with wood. Two milei north is Caftle Campbell, feated on a fteep peninfulated rock, between vaft mountains, hav- ing to the fouth in extenfive view through a deep glen, (hagged with brufti-wood. From ita dark fitua- tion, this pile was formerly called the Caftle of Gloom ; and the names of the adjacent places were fuitable ; it flood in the parifli of Dolor, was bounded by the glens of Care, and wafhed by the burns of Sorrow. This caftle, with the whole territory, belonging to the family of Argyle, underwent all the calamities of civil war, in 1643* when the marquis cf Montrofc carried fire and fword through the eftate. The caftle was demolifhed, and its magnificent ruins have fince remained a monument of the horror of the times. We defcend thence into Strathearn, a 'jeautiful vale, about thirty miles in length, full of rich mea- dows and corn-fields, divided by the river Earn, which ferpentizes finely through the middle, and falls into the Tay at the eaft end. It is pleafantly diverfified with groves of trees and gentlemen's houfes ; among which, towards the weft end, is Caftle Drummond, the fortified feat of the earl of Perth, In its neighbour, hood are fituated CrieiF and Muthel, the former of which is a poft-town, and contains feveral good houfes. At the village of InnerpefFary is a good room, with a library, for the ufe of the neighbourhood, founded by David lord Madderty. who alfo left a perpetual fund for the purchafe of new books. The profpe£l from the hill of Moncrief, at the eaft end of Strathearn, is the glory of Scotland, and juftly r.ierits the encomiums beftowed upon it for the richnefs and variety of its views. On the fouth and weft extends Strathearn, cmbelliflied with the feats of lord Kinnoul, lord Rollo, and «f feveral other gentlenen. The Carfe, or rich plain of Gowrie, the Stormont hills, and the hill of Kinnoul, the vaft cliiF of which is remarkable for its beautiful pebbles. The delightfulnefs of the profpeiSl is greatly increafed by the meanders of the Earn, with the xftuary of the Tay, which is full in view, and beyond it, at a dif- tance, the fea. The Carfe of Gowrie is a fine tra£l, extending in length fourteen miles, in breadth four, and re- markable for its fertility. It is covered with all forts of corn, peafe, and clover, in great perfe£)ion, inter- mixed with orchards, plantations, and gentlemen's feats. At Abernethy, on the fouth-fide of the river Earn, is, an ancient round tower, uncovered. The height within is feventy-two foot ; the inner diameter eight foot two inches ; thi thickncfs of the wall at top, two foot feven ; at botiom three foot four ; and the 1 circumference near the ground forty-feven fo«t. This ! place 5«^ H MODERN [EuROPf. place ii ftfppdftd to have been anciently the capital ol the Pifts. At a fmall diflance from Dupplin, the feat of the carl of Kinnoul, are vcOigC!* of a Roman road, twenty-four foot in breadth, and formed of largi' Aones. PaflTiiig by the great phntations at Gafk-hall, we have a view of a fmall circular iiurcnchmcj.t, and about half a mile farther is another, the ditch uf which is eleven foot wide, and the area within the bank I fifty fix In diameter. Wtftward of this arc two others, fimilar, placed fo near as to command the view of ilie whole adjacent country. Thefe are fuppofcd to have been tht fite of little obfervatory forts, I'ubfervient to the ftations eftablifhed by Agricola, on his conqucR of this country, In pafling beneath the vail ocks of Kinnoul, the impending craggy precipices arc extremely awful. Beautiful agates are frequently found here ; and in examining fome fragments at the bottom of the hill, Mr. Pennant difcovered a conftderable quantity of lava, a proof of its having anciently been a volcano. Proceeding along the fide of the Tay, in the plain of the Stormont, wc meet with a neat fettlement of weavers, called from the inhabitants, Spitalfields. This country is very populous, full of fpinners, and of weavers of buckrams, and coarfe cloths or fient- ings, of which we are informed that twelve millions of yards are exported annually from Perth. Much flax is raifed here, and the country abounds in corn, which is however infufficient to fupply the numerous inhabitants. The fituation of Inchftuthal, or Delvin, is very remarkable. The houfe flands on a flat of a hundred and fifty- four Scotch acres, regularly fteep on every lide, and of uniform height, about fixty foot above the great plain of Stormont, on which it ftands. From fome ancient vefliges which remain, it is conjeiSlured that the Pi£ls had here a town. A mound of flone and cirth running along the margin of the deep is in many places entire. The flones were not d on the fpot, but were brought from a place two .niles diftant, where quarries of the fame kind are {lill in ufe. Another dike croflcs the ground in the nar- rowed part, and fecms to have been intended as the iirfl defence againft an enemy, after the outworks had been abandoned. Near the extremity is what may be called the citadel, confiding of a fmall portion of the eminence, feparated from the reft by five great dikes, and as many deep fofl'es. This place had alfo another fecu 'y, of which time has long fincc deprived it. The .1 cr Tay once en- tirely environed the mount, and formed it into an ifland, as appears from the name Inehftuthel, which in the ancient language imports the ifland of Tuthel. The river at prefent runs on one fide only, but there .ire plain marks, on (he north in particular, of a chan- nel, running in the direflion which the Tay had taken, before it ceafcd to infulate this piece of ground. Sepulchral monuments are frequent over the face of this plain. The barrows are round, not much ele- 2 vated, and their bafis are furrounded by a fofs. In fi)me of them have been found many bones. I'he natural flrength of this place induced the U). mans likewifc to take puflcflioii of it; and notwith- Itanding the great change made by indofures and aori- culture, there arc ftill vefliges of a flation five hundred yards fqtiarc. The fide next to Delvin houl'e is barely to be traced ; and part of another borders on the mar- gin of the bank. There is alfo a fmall fquare redoubt near the edge, facing the Eaft Inch in the Tay, which covered the ftation on that fide. The former was once inclofcd with a wall fourteen foot thick, the foundation'; of which are reiticmbcrcl by two farmers yet alive; and to the weflv a>d of this flation, about thirty years ago, were difcovered the veftiges of a large building, A redlangular hollow, made of brick, is ftill entire : ir is about ten or twelve food long, three or four ( wide, and five or fix foot deep. Bocthius calls tl ,iUce the Tulina of the Pifls ; and adds, tli.Tt in ihiir time it was a very populous city, but was dcfertcd and burnt by them on the approach of the Romans under Agricola. Mr. ■Pennant is of opinion, that this was the Orrea of the Romans, which the learned Stukeley, though h: places it in his map north-eaft of the Tay, and on the very fpot where the prefent Delvin ftands, fuppofes to have been Perth. Ten miles wcftward of Perth, on the north fide of the Tay, flands the town of Dunkeld, fuppofcd to be the Caftrum Caledonix, and the Oppidum Caledonia- rum of the oW writers. It is a fmall town, containing feveral good houfes, and has a linen manufaflure, though not very confiderable. It was anciently a bi- fhop's fee, and is now chiefly noted for the ftately ruins of its cathedral. The extent within is a hundred and twenty foot by fixty. The body is fupported by two rows of round pillars, with fquared capitals. The arches are Gothic. The choir ftill remains, artd is ufed at prefent as a church. At this place the duke of Athol has a fine houfe and gardens ; and near a mile wcftward from the town is a rock, which retains the name of the King's Seat. Here, we are told, the Scottiftj monarchs ufually placed themfelves, for the purpofc of Oiooting at the deer which were driven this way, for their amufe- mcnt. At a hunting-match in the time of queen Mary, we are told that the highlanders drove thither, from the hills of Athol, Badenoch, Mar, and Mur- ray, two thoufand red deer, befidcs roes and f.i|low« deer, of which number were killed in one day three hundred and fixty deer, and fome roes, befides five wolves. The neighbourhood of this town is extremely pleafant, and is much frequented in the fummer by company, who refort thither for the drinking of goat- whey. Here we enter the Highlands, which hence ftrttch northward ti ■ ugh Athol, and weftward by Strath-Tay and Breadalbanc. About fourteen rniles north-weft of Dunkeld, is the famous pafs of Gillicranky, noted for the battle be- tween the vifcount Dundee .ind king Willitm's forces. It fivz/i JUkAw Jn m of the'hili Grianan, three miles welt from Miggerhy in this county. On the north-weft fide is a ftonc twenty- nine foot Ion?, and nine thiclc, which fup- plies part of the edifice on the outfide. The form of this fttuaure is a circle, from eleven to twelve foot thick i and within the place where the great ftone ftands, is an ai'ditional wall, about eight foot thick. The moft cntiir place L nine foot and a half high ; and the diameter within the wall is forty-fivc foot. The greater part of the ftones ufed in this building are from three to fix foot long, and from one and a half to three foot thick. At no great dif. tanre from this plac- are fituated three others, con- ccrning which the tradition of the inhabitants is faid to be exprefTcd in thefe lines : '.-.■-,, D'a chaifttal-dtug oig Feann An an trom gl'Icann >iicf, another cataraft, form- ! 6 P »"« 520 lance I I. »rj pUee ii ftippobJ to hi| the Pifti. ' At I fmatl difta carl of Kinnoul twenty-four foot in I flones. Pairing by the^ we have t view nf a (n about half a mile farthe is eleven foot wide, ai fifty fix ill diameter. \ fimilar, placed fo near whole adjacent countr] been the Ate of little i the nations eflablilhed of this country. In paffing beneath impending craggy pr{( Beautiful agates are A examining Tome fragn^ Mr. Pennant difcovert lava, a proof of its hav Proceeding along tht of the Scormont, we j weavers, called from! This country is very I of weavers of buckrmr ings, of which we art of yards are exported i is raifc'd here, and tl which is however inful inhabitants. The lltuation of Ii remarlc.ibic. The houf and fifty-four Scotch I tide, and of uniform ! the great plain of Stort From fonie ancient conjedlurcd that the Pii of ftone and earth ru| deep is in many places found on the fpot, but miles diftant, where qu in life. Another dike c rowcft pare, and fecms to have been intended as the f.rfl defence againfl an enemy, after the outworks had been abandoned. Near the extremity is what may be called the citadel, confiding of a fmall portion of the eminence, feparated from the reft by five great dikes, anil as many deep fofles. This place had alfo another fecurity, of which time has long fincc deprived it. The river T-iy once en- tirely environed the mount, and formed it into an ifland, as appears from the name Inchftuthel, which in the ancienc language imports the ifland of Tuthel. The river at prefcnt runs on one fide only, but there .ire plain marks, on (he north in particular, of a chan- nel, running in the diref.ion which the Tay had taken, before it ceafed to infulate this piece of ground. Sepulchral monuments are frequent over the face of this plain, The barrows are round, not much ele- placed tnemieiVR, for the purpofe of (hooting at the deer which were driven this way, for their amufe- mcnt. At a hunting-match in the time of queen .Mary, we are told that the highlanders drove thither, from the hills of Athol, B,idei)och, Mar, and Mur- ray, two thoufand red deer, befidss roes and falloW'> deer, of which number were killed in one day three hundred and fixty deer, and fome roes, befldes five wolves. The neighbourhood of this town is extremely [ileafant, and is much frequented in the fummer by company, who refort thither for the drinking of goat- whey. Here we enter the Highlands, which hence ftretch northward through Athol, and weftward by Strath-Tay and I'readalbanc, About fourteen miles north-weft of Dunkeld, is the famous pafs of Gillicranky, noted for the battle be- tween the viicount Dundee and king Willitm's forces. Scotland.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 5" g at the amufe- f queen thither, 1 Mur- fallow't y three Jes five iremely ner by ' goat- hence ird by is the [c be- orcei. It It it a narrow t(;i I, al)oiit a mile in lcii|';(h, at the foot of va(t wodcfy moiini.iins, alon^j the b.mk of the river Garric, which rum below in a deep ar.d hor- rible ch.imicl. Nut fjr hence lies l''.ifkclly, dclijhtfiilly fe.iteJ in a beautiful meadow, environed by craggy mountain) that are fkirliil with woods. On one fije it is bounded by the river Tiimmel, which at a fmall dif- tance appears again guOiing from between the wooded rocks, down a precipice of great height. Salmons annually force their pafTigc even up this furious ca- tara£l, and are taken here in a mod artlefs manner. A hamper f.iftcncd to a wicker rope, pinned into a cleft of the rock, is flung into the llrcani j and now and then a fifli, in the fall from its effort to fur- mount the cataract, drops into the bafkct. At other times, the iilher throws into the ftrearn below, a cal- trop, or crow foot, f.irtened to a long rope. On this inftrunient the f.ilmons often transfix thcmfclves, and are drawn up to land. Another method, of muc'i rifquc to the adventurer, is alfo fometimes praiElifcd. A perfon feats himfclf on the bank of the precipice, above the catarails, and fixes one font in the noofe of a wicker-cord. Here, armed wiili a fpcar, he waits the le.ip of a falmon, and the moment the fifh rifcs he d.irts his weapon, at the hazard of falling into the water by his own effort, or the ftruggle of his prey. "" .;* ' ]n the parifll of Moullne, in this neighbourhood, on the top of a fleep den, are the remains of a cir- cular building, called the DIack Caftle, about fixty fbot diameter within fiJc, and the walls about eight foot thick. About a mile weflward is another ; and a third a little to the fouth ; befides one in the pa- rifli of I.oggierait, at the diilance of fome miles. Some antiquaries have conjeftured that thefe round buildings wcic intended for making fignals with fi.es in cafe of invafions ; others think they were (lore- houfes for concealing valuable efFcfls on a fudden in- road of an enemy; but the former opinion is gene- rally confidercd as the moft probable. A chain of buildings of this kind, wc are informed, may be traced in different parts towards the weft fea. The moft entire of thefe is Caftal-an-dui, lying at the foot of the hill Grianan, three miles weft from Miggerny in this county. On the north-weft fide is a flone twenty- nine foot Ion? and nine thick, which fup- plies part of the edifi ■.: on the outfide. The form of this ftrudlure is a circle, from eleven to twelve foot thick ; and within the place where the great ftone ( ands, is an additional wall, about eight foot thick. The moft entire place is nine foot and a half high ; and the diameter within the wall is forty-five foot. The greater part of the ftones ufcd in this building are from three to fix foot long, and from one and a half to three foot thick. At no great dif- tance from this place are fituatcd three others, con- cerning which the tradition of the inhabitants is faid to be expreflcd in thefe lines : Da chaifttal-deug oig Ftann An an tiom ghleann ntr deck. No. 44.. That ii, •• Tingil, king of heron, had twivu lowen in the winding valley of ihcgrey-hcadcd ftoi «.'' Two other builJingi of liniilar conOrui^lion are to be met with, which, though out of the line uf thoff now mentioned, it ii conjectured might be fub- fervient to their ufe. One lies on the norili fi.le of Loch-Tay, about five miles eaft of Killin, above the public road. The other, called Caillcal Baraora, on the fouth-fide, about a quarter of a mile fruni the lake. At Ulair, a few miles north of Kartcelly, the duks of Athol has another fine feat, where is a cafcade of a fingular appearance. It it firft feen tumblinij among the trees, at 'he head of a fmall glen. The waters a-e foon joined by thofe of another that dart from the fide ; and thefe uniting fall into a deep chafm, appear again, and after forming four more catarafls, are lofl in the Tilt ; which likewife runs under a rock for a confiderable fpace. At this place the late duke of Athol introduced the culture of rhubarb, which thrives exceedin"ly, and grows to a vaft fize. Some of them, when frcfh, have been found to weigh fifty pounds, and to be equal in fmcll, talle, and efle£t, to the beft that is imported. Proceeding weftward from Loggierait, along Strath- Tay, we pafs the caftle of Grandtully, on the fouth- fide of the river, and reach the village of Aberfeldy, at which is the bridge of Tay, crcflcd by the govern- ment in the year 1733. It confifts of nine arches, and bears the following infcription, :> |< > Mhcirt Viam banc mititarem Ultra Romanes tirminos M. Pejfuum CCL. /ak Wai txtenfam ; Ttfquh (sf paludibus infuUanttm Per monies rupefqtte palefaitem Et indignanll Tayo Ul cerm'is Injlratum, Opus hic arduum fun filcrtid Et dtcennali tn'tlUum cpeni. A. JEr. Xnx 1733, PosuiT G. Wads. This bridge ftands on the great road that leads from ' Stirling to Fort Auguftus, in the North Highlands, Near it is Monefs, which is remarkable for its water- falls. A neat walk conducts you along the fides of a deep and wcU-wooded glen, enriched with a pro- fufion and variety of cafcades, that ftrike with aftonifliment. The firft, which lies on the left, runs down a rude ftair-cafe with numbers of landing places, and patters down the ftcps in a beautiful manner. Advancing along the bottom, on the right, is a deep and darkfome chafm, water-worn forages; at the end of which is a great cataradl, confifting of fevcral breaks. The rocks more properly arch than impend over it ; and the whole is (haded with trees. On afcending a zig zag walk, wc crofs the firft cafcade, and continuing along the path, among the woods, to the top of the hill, difcover from the verge of an immenfe precipice, another cataraiV, form- 6 P ing n~^. 11 , IM t I. II ,':■ SI' •j'l ikW \ . s»« THE MOD R N [EuROPt. ing one viH Otttt, tumbling into the deep hollow i whtnct guthing with great force, it ii inOanily loft in • wood bcncitih, Near h*U % mile from Tay^briJge, on the north, ftanili the caflle of VVccm, the rrfiJence of fir Ko- bert Mcnciei ( and four milea weftward ftandi Tay- mouth, • ffloft beautiful feat belonging to the earl of Breadalbane, The houfe, which ii large, ii an an* eitnt ckftle modernised, and incrcafed with two hand- fome pavilioni, befidei other building!. It it fiiu- aled on • curvature of the Tajr, about • mile ead from the Loch, where the river hai ita fource. The vale on which it flandi ii bounded on the fouth and north by mountaina finely planted. That on the fouth is covered with treei, or with corn-fielda, far up it! fide. The hill on the north, which ii like- wife planted with pinei and other treei, ii very fteep, and particularly rerembica the great flupe op- pofiic the Grande Chartreufe in Dauphine. The park furrounding the houfe ia of great extent, and ii flocked with fallow-deer. More grand and beautiful terraflei are no where to be Teen t nor a greater num- ber of fummcr-houfea and templet, commanding a variety of delightful profpeAi. The wall along the bank of the Tay it fifty foot wide, and ftretchei weft- ward two and twenty hundred yardi i but when com- pleated to the junAion of the Tay and the Lyon, will extend the fame length to the caft. On a plain in Glen-Lyon, ia a fmall Roman camp, called Fortingel, or the fort of the ftrangeri i and in the church-yard at this place are the remain! of a prodigioui yew-tree, meafuring fifty-fix foot and a half in circumference. Near a mile and a half weft of Taymouth, on an eminence, ftands Kenmure, an elegant village lately built by lord Breadalbane, who has alfo erefied here a handfome church, and a bridge over the Tay. At this place is the eaftern extremity of Loch-Tay, which extends about fifteen miles in length, is gene, rally half a mile broad, and in many places a hun- dred fathom deep. It abounds in falmon, trout, and other kinds ot fifh ; and till the year 1773, was fup- pofed to be incapable of freezing. Near the eaft end is a pretty little ifland, tuftrd with trees. Here are the ruins of a priory, founded in ii£2, by Alexander I. in which weredepofited the remains of his queen Sybilla, natural daughter to Henry I. To this ifland the Campbells retreated dur- ing the fuccefs of the marquis of Montrofe. This lake in its courfe makes three great bends, which adds confiderably to its beauty. It is bounded on each fide by lofty mountains, which flope to the water edge, forming a traiSl of cultivated ground, rich in corn, and diverfified with groves and plantations. The inhabitants on each fide are faid to furpafs in number thofe of any place in Scotland of equal ex- tent ; there being not lefs, according to a late compu- tation, than feventeen hundred and eighty fouls, on the north-fide, and on the fouch-fide twelve hundred. On the fouth-fide of the lake, almoft three miles from Taymouth, is a beautiful cafcade i and another yet more remarkable, nn the north. fide, at a liula grrairr diftancc. Near the latter is the hill of Lauri, a vaft high mountain, the top of which is perpetually covered with fiiow, except about a month or fix wreki fucceedi.ig midlummer. It abounds with a Ipeciei of birds called ptarmigans, and a fmall kind ot hare | both which are grey in the fummer, and white in the winter t and to the tafte ar« extremely delicious. Along this fide of Loch-Tay, the whole length and many miles to the weftward, is an excellent road, made at the fole expcnce of the prefcnt earl of Bread- albane, who has alfo ere ther by hia friends, they firft perform the ceremony of the Dearil, thrice round a neighbouring cairn { afterwards oflFering upon it fome rags, or a little bunch of heath, tied with worfted. They next ira- merge the perfon tSree times in a holy pool of the river, and aftetwardi leave him faft bound during the night, in the iteighbouting chapel. If in the morning he fhould be found loofe, the faint ii fup. pofcd to be propitious ; but if he continues in bonds, his cure remains doubtful. The Dearil, or turning from eaft to weft, accord- ing to the courfe of the fun, is a cuftom of high anv tiquity in religious ceremonies. The Romans prac- tifed the motion in the manner now performed ia Scotland. The Gaulifh Druidi made their circum- volution in a manner diredly reverfe. The number of SCO' of turn! wa! limei. Thu tend! to the " Tir Irr»r«v S»lvil, She turn'd On her lo Then yelli Her bare St. Fillan infpiring hi! battle of Bai before in hi rcAed to br the faint, 1( (caring, in become mal the empty the aid of before him accord. C whole arm] the foldier! tory, fougl in gratitud founded he aid confei thi! houfe, were grant the carl of lying in t church, ai minifter, 1 kM eftabli wbofe ace which lor( Thi! ti country il breed of I Fatthei great roa hill of I it fendt heavy rai Enteri pafs thrc fertile t groves, is deepi; inhabita famous It ia fa roweft I Loch ifland!, to the I •t' ScarMMD.l GENERAL TRAVELLER. 5*3 of lurni WM tlfo rttigiouflf obr«rv«ii in very rtmott limci. Thui Mtdtt, in all htr •nchinim«n(i| «(• undi to lb* furctd thrtt. •• Tir fi ttmnrtil, Itr fumlii JIumiiu trimm /rrirtvit afuh ^ Itrnii ululatikui tr» S*hil, If in Jura /utmij/i ftflitt hrrs, Nt», ait, (St, 8ht turn'd htr ihrlet uound, ind thrice f the town, and the adjacent country, are equally expert in the Eng- lifll and Erfe languages ; but as they always fpeak the former according as it is written, their pronoun- ciation is guttural and uncouth. Within a mile of Invernefi, the Highlands begin to rife to the north-wclt ; but towards fome other points lor five or fix miles, the country is moderately level. A litilc to ilie ncrtli-eaft are the ruins of the fort b'lllt by Oliver Cromwell, which commanded the town, the mouth of the river, and part of the flat country on the laud fide. A mile to the wellvvard is a very regular hill about four hundred yards long, and a hJndrcd and fitly broad. On the top is a large hollow, alniou the whole exunt of the fummit, which the inhabitants fi'pp.jfe to be the haunt of fairies and witches. The grcatift ornament of the adjacent country is an ifland, difiaiit about a quarter of a mile. It is about fix hundred yards long, well planted with trees, and formed by two branches of the Ncl's. 'I"o this place the magidrates condufl the jiid;;es, when they are upon their circuit in the month of May, and enter- tain them with fdlmon, v.'hich is boiled the moment It is taken, and fet upon a bank of turf, furrounded by feats of the fame. Not f.ir from the town, large nu!0.--ftoner:, fome of them ten foot high, are fet up in regular circles, one Aiiihin another. The traditir.n is, that that they were creeled by the Romans, either for temples, or as tri- bunals for the trial criminal foldiers ; but for this conjeiflure there feems to be little authority. ■ At tlic diftance of about two miles is Ciillodcn- houfc, a large flone-building, with good gardens and a park ; in the neighbourhood of which the rebels were defeated by the royal army in 1746. The village of Ferntofh, in this county, is famoui for its whifky, which is faid to excel all other di- Ailled f|iifits of the kind. Some miles from the town, on the fide of the loch, are the ruins of the calUe of Urqiihart, formerly con- filling of feven great towers, faid to be built by the Cunimins, and demolilhed by Edward I. '-^-.''n-y . . CHAP. V. Of tht Highlanders, I H E Highlanders, or Gael, are generally ad- mitted to be defccndants of the firft Celtic co- lony that arrived in Britain ; and of any people with whom we are acquainted, they have the longeft re- tained the language and cudoms, as well as the cha- rafler of their anceftors. In their pcrfons, they are for the mod part of the middle fize, but extremely active, and capable of enduring great hardfhips. They are brave, hof;iitabIc, and generou', much af- fedled with the civility of Grangers, and h.ive in them- felves a natural politcntfs and addrefs. They are im- patient of afi^ronts, and thcicfore of.en revengeful of injuries ; but their rcfeiitnitnt is quickly appeal(;d on the fubmiflion of the perlon who oflVnded them. They are fo fond of news, that even tlic poored labourers, upon feeing at a great didance a traveller on the road, often quit their work, and running to meet him, en- quire with great earneftnefs about the ftate of public aflaiis. If he prove communica'ive, they accompany hip» perhaps for many miles ; and they fcem to think themfelvcs ! Scotland.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 525 themfelves well recompenred for the time theyr have loft by the intelligence which they have received. The ancient drefs of the men is the tartan plaid, compofed of woollen ftufF of various colours, forming flripes, which crofi each other at right angles. This garment, which is of confiderable breadth, and feveral yards long) they throw over the flioulder, into very near the form of a Roman toga, as reprefented in an- cient ftatues. Sometimes it is faftened round the middle with a leathern belt, fo that part of the plaid hangs down like a petticoat, and fupplies the want of breeches. Under the plaid, and over their Ihirt, they wear a waiftcoat, which is liicewife gene- nerally of tartan ; and fometimes, inftead of making the plaid hang down below their middle, they wear a kind of petticoat of the fame variegated ftuff, tied round the waift : this hangs down to the knee, and it termed a pbilibeg. Their (lockings are likewife of tartan, tied below the knee with tartan garters formed into taflels. But inftead of this drefs, they fometimes life trowfers, which confift of breeches and {lockings all of one piece, made likewife of tartan. The com- mon people wear upon their feet brogues made of un- tanned or undrefled 'rather, and which arc ufually tied with a thong. The covering of the head is a bonnet, of a particular woolltn manufadlure ; in one fide of which many wear occaftonally the feather of a pea- cock, or fome other bird. From the belt of the phili. beg generally hang a knife and a dagger, which they call a dirk, both flieathed, with an iron pillol, fome- times of fine workmanlhip, and curioudy inlaid with iilver ; befides whic'1, they carry the broad-fword, A large leathern purfe, richly mounted with filver, and hanging down before, was formerly always a part of a Highland gentleman's drefs. The drefs of the women cotifllli of a petticoat and jerkin, with ftrait fleeves, trimmed or not trimmed, according to the quality of the wearer. Over this they wear a plaid, which they either hold clofe under the chin with the hand, or fallen with a round broad buckle, called a broch, generally made of fllver. For the head, the married women ufe a kerchief of fine linen, which comes under the chin, and hangs down behind. Among the poorer fort, however, the young women ufe no covering on the head till the day after their marriage. Till this time they wear their hair twilled, and rolled up on the crown of the head, in which pofltion it is kept firm by a bodkin running through it, and a furrounding band of tape. On their legs, the women, both young and old, wear hofe of flannel, which are made of great length, and hang in plaits fo far up as the knee. It is common for the chil- dren to ufe neither flioes nor (lockings. Their diet conftfls mollly of milk, cheefe, and but- ter, with bannocks baked of oat or barley meal. For breakfaft they generally ufe pottage, and for fuppcr ei- ther fowcns (flummery) or brochen, which is a kind of water-gruel. Their common drink is whey or wa- ter i and the only liquor known in the country is whilky. Their houfes are generally cottages, compofed of (loncs and clods, thatched with broom or heather, In- No, 44. (lead of chimneys, they have a hole in the roof; and the window, which is froall, has for the mod part no glafs, but is accommodated with a wooden fliutter. In the houfes of the poorer people it is ufual for their cow to have her (lation in one end. Their common fuel is peat and turf, and fometimes heather or broom, Indead of candle they moftly ufe lamps, or burn fmaU pieces of fir. In proportion as indudry has advanced among the Highlanders, their ancient fports, fuch as archery, hunting, fowling, and lilhing have declined, Thofe which remain are chiefly throwing the putting- done, or (lone of Jiringth, as they cali it ; the ptmy (lone, which anfwers to the coit ; and the (hinty, or (Iriking a ball of wood or hair. Their domedic amufement in the evenings is ge- nerally the telling of tales. Their chief mufical indru- ment was anciently the harp, which was covered with leather, and drung with wire : but this has long fincc given place to the bagpipe, which likewife begins now^ to decline. Vocal mufic was alfo much ufed among them ; and their fongs were chiefly in praife of their ancient heroes. The weddings of the people of inferior rank are celebrated, as in other parts of Scotland, with a fedi- vity that partakes of the hncient Saturnalia. In the morning, the bride and bridegroom, with their at- tendants, and a bagpipe, viflt the mod refpeflable pcr- fons who have beet, previoufly invited to their nup- tials. When the two parties meet for the celebration of the marriage, they commonly falute each other with the difcharge of feveral pidols. The entertain- ment conftds of a dinner, with liquor and dancing, for which every perfon pays a (hare. In former times, the cronoch, or Tinging at fune- rals, was praiSlifed ; but this cuftom is now fallen in- to difufe. They dill, however, retain in fome places, the fuperftitious ceremony of the Bel-Tin, or the Fire of the Rock, which is kindled on the fird of May, and accompanied with a rural repad. It was a cudom, till of late years, among the inhabitants of whole didri£ls in the North of Scotland, to extinguilh all their (ires on the evci. ng of the lad day of April. Early on the fird day of May, fome felefl perfons met in a private place, and by turning with great rapidity an augre in a dry piece of wood, extrafled what they called the forced or elementary (ire. Some aflive young men, one from each hamlet in the didri£t, at- tended at a didance, and as foon as the forced fire was kindled, carried part of it, with great expedition and joy, to their refpedtive villages. The people imme- diately aflembled upon f^me rock or eminence, lighted the Bel-Tein, and fpent the day in mirth and fedi- vity. Three times they carried round the (ire in pro- cefllon, the branches of mountain-alh, with wreaths of flowers and heath, which they afterwards depofited above the doors of their rcfpedlive dwellings, where they remained till next year, when the ceremony was again performed. Even before the introduiflion of Chridianity, this people, with the other Celtic nations, maintained the dodlrine of the immortality of the foul. They placed 6 Q. Paradife 5a6 THE MODERN [E0R0PE4 Partdife in the Grtiii IJlt 1/ tbt JFiJl, and were to- tally ignorant of what we call Hell, having no name for any fueh place in their language i a circumftanci to which may juftly be afcribed the remarkable valour of thofe nation!. By the charity- fchools which have lately been efta- bliflied in different parti of the country, the children are now univerfally taught to read ihe the fcripturei ; and fince the abolition of the power of the chief- tains, • fpirit of independence, unknown in former timei^ is alraoft ev«ry where diffufed among th« paoplc. CHAP. VI. Tbt Stilts of K'nicardin, Ahtrdtin, Banff, Elgin, Nairn, Ottd Cromartit. PROCEEDING eaftward from the (hire of In vernefs, we enter that of Kincardin, or the Mearns ; which is bounded on the fouth by the county of Angus, and on the eaft by the fea. The part of this county called the Hollow of the Mearns, is extremely fertile, and abounds with gentlemen's (catt. The town of Stone-hive, or Stone-haven, confifts a luefent of about eight hundred inhabitants, who are making great advances in the manufailure of fail cloths and Ol'nabrugh?, as well as in knit worded and cliread duckings. The celebrated cadle of Dunnoter ftands on a lofty peninfulated rock, jutting into the fea, and di- vided from the main-land. The area on the top of the rock is an Englifh acre and i quarter in extent, The entrance to the caftie is high, through an arched way. Beyond is another, with four round holes in front, for the annoying any enemy who might gain the firft gate. The buildings arc numerous, many of them vaulted, but few appear to be above a century and a half old, excepting a fquare tower of a conflder- abie height, and the buildings which defend the ap- proach. The fides of the rock are extremely deep, and even that part which impends over the idhmus has been cut, in order to render the fortrefs ftill more fe- cure. The cidern which fupplied it with water is now ainiod filled up } but appears to have been no led than twenty-nine foot in diameter. This cadle was ths property of the Keiths, eatls Marfhals of Scotland, an ancient and heroic family, but which forfeited its title and cdate in the rebellion of 1715. It is a place of great antiquity, and was the fcene of a h'oody atchievement about the year 1296, when ir was taken by the celebrated Scotch champion. Sir William Wallace, who is faid to have dedroyed in it four thoufand Englifhmen by fire. In 1336 it was re-fortified by Edward HI. in his progrefs through Scotland, but was foon afterwards retaken by Sir An- drew Murray. From that time, to the civil wars in the lad century, there is a chafm in the hidory of this ancient cadle, Paldykirk, in the neighbourhood of this place, is fa- mous for being the burial-place of St. Palladius, who, In 431, was fent by pope Cclefline to preach the go- fpcl to the Scots. The town is noted for an annual three days Uir, where the principal commodity is coarfe cloth, that it ufually exported to the Nether- lands. Kincardin, the chief town of the county, is a plact of little note. On the coaft is fituated Inverbervie, oiadc a royal borough by king Alexander HI. The town of Fordun was famoui in former timea for the relics of St. Palladius above mentioned; and is alfo noted for b ing the birth-place of John d« Foidun, the Scotch liidorian. On the lands of Arduthie and Rcdcloiik may be fcen fome trenches, cad up by the Danes in one of their invafions ; and round the hill of Urie is a deep ditch, where the Scots had their camp. Towards the northern part of the county, on the road-fide, is a cairn, of a dupendous fizf. The ihape is oblong, and the height at lead thirty foot. Itcon- fifts of great loofe dones, mixed with femivitrified matter; and at fuiiie diftance from the ground, the L.'c. are forniid into a broad tcrrafs. Along the top is f'a oval hollow, about fix foot deep. Its length withjn is a hundred and fifty-two foot, and its breadth in the mid-'le fixty-fix. This uncommon objef), called Fetter-cairn, is prefumed to have been monu- mental. SHIRE OF ABERDEEN. Direfling our courfe northward, we enter the Oiire of Aberdeen, which is alfo a feitile county, fubdivided into the diftri£ls of Mar, Buchan, Garioch, and Strathbogic. The capital of t.his (hire is Aberdeen, fituated eigh- ty-four miles north-ead of Edinburgh, and diftin- guiihed into the New and the Old Town ; the for* nier ftandiog at the mouth of the river Dee, and the latter at that of the Don, at the didancc of about a mile from each other. Old Aberdeen was formerly th« bifhop's feat, and Has a cathedral, commonly called St. Macher's, a large and dately druifture, which was anciently much more magnificent, but fudercd greatly at the time of the Reformation, and afterwardf ■xt the Revolution. The chief ornament cf this town is the King's College, founded by bifhop Elphindon, in the year 15CO. Here are a principal, a fub-principal, who is alfo one of the regents, three other regents, profeffora of philofophy, a profe/Tor of humanity, or philology, with thofe of divinity, phyfic, liw, the oriental tongues, and mathematics. The church and decpic of the college are built of hewn done ; and the fum- mit of the latter refembles an imperial crown. The windows of the church were formerly admired for their paintings, and fomething of their fplendor yeC remains. In the decple arc two bells of extraordinary bignefs, hefides others. Clufe to the church is a library, well furnifhcd with books. New Aberdeen is fituated upon three hills, the main part on the highcft; and the fklrts of it ex- Nod go- hnual |ther> SCOTLAKD.] GENERAL TIAVELLER. 527 tend into the phin. The houTes are neatly built, generally four llories high, or upwardt, and have for the moft part gardens and orchards belonging to them. The marlcet-place is beautiful and fpacious, and the (Ireets adjoining it extremely handfome. Nicholas's church is a fine edifice of free ilone, with a lofty fteeple, in the form of a pyramid. It was divided into two churches ; but that to the weft being in a ruinous condition, has been pulled down, and another, proportionably elegant, ere£led on its fite. Here is a large infirmary, built and fupported by the voluntary contributions of the inhabitants of the town and the adjacent country ; bcfides a prifon, a woik'houfe, an alms-houfe, and an excellent hof- pital, in which about forty boys, the fons of decayed merchants and tradefmen are maintained, cloathed, and educated. Here is likewife a grammar fchool, with one mafter and three ufliers i excluflve of a mufic fchool. In this city {lands the Marlhal college, founded by George earl Marlhal, in the year 1593} and fince confiderably enlarged. In this univerfity are a prin- cipal, four profeflfors of philofophy, one of oriental languages, one of mathematics, one of divinity, and likewife a profeflbrfhip of phyfic, which has lately been cftablifhed. In this place are two meeilng-houfes of the Eng- lilh church, viz. St. Paul's chapel, and the Tri- nity church } two of the Nonjurors, under a titular bifliop of Aberdeen ; two of the Roman catholics ; •ne of the Sefeders, one of the Quakers, and one of the Iixlopcndents. From a round hill at the weft end of the city, flow two fprings, one of pure water, and another •f a quality refembling that of the German fpa. Few cities enjoy greater natural advantages than Aberdeen, the air being pure and wholefome, and the climate remarkably mild. Provifions of all kinds are good and cheap ; and the inhabitants are univer- fally diftinguiflied for their courteous behaviour. Poflefling a great inland trade, and drawing from the adjacent country commodities of conftderable value, the town is become very populous, and accounted the third in North Briton. Here are feveral kinds of woollen manufa£)ures, particularly (lockings, coarfe and fine. This trade, which was very great before the union, declined afterwards, but has been recovered of late years. They likewife make plaids, fingrams, and fomc other coarfe goods. The linen manufacture alfo flourifhed exceedingly ; and there were made excellent Ofnabrughs, till the fufpenfion of the bounty upon the linen manufaAure gave a check to that branch ; which however it is hoped will revive. At prefent a confiderable trade is maintained in the fineft forts of linen ; and there is likewife a manu- faiSlure of fail-cloth. Large quantities of yarn have been fpun here, and exported to England, where they have been wrought up at Manchefter and other placet s which is a ftrong proof of the induftiy of the people, as well as of the cheapnefs of labour ; two circumftances which afford ground to fufpcfl, that whatever improvement may be a*'.empted either in linen or woollen, will have a very fair chanoe of fucceeding in Aberdeen. The inhabitants here likewife export a great deal of pickled pork, which they fell chiefly to the Dutch for the vidlualling their Eaft India (hips, and their men of war ; the Aberdeen pork having the repu- tation of being the beft cu ed of any in Europe, for keeping on very long voyages. But one of the greateft branches of trade in this city is the curing of faltnon, of which a prodigious quantity is here taken in the rivers Dee and Don, and afterwards fent to England, France, the Baltic, and feveral other parts. The river Dee has its fource on the fides of the mountains, or, as they are called in this country, the Braes of Mar, It runs almoft direflly eaft, and after being augmented by many brooks and rivulets in a courfe of fifty miles, difchargcs itfelf into the fea. This river has been celebrated from all antiquity for breeding great quantities of the moft excellent falihon. The Don rifes fome miles farther north, and declin» ing to the foiitli-eaft, falls likewife into the German occin. Both thefe rivers have bridges over them, at a little diftance frjm the fall : that over the Dee confifts of fev .n ftately arches ; that upon the Don is only of ;; fingle arch, fuftained on each fide by a rock, and is efteemed a noble piece of workmanfhip. The port of Aberdeen, which has a great extent of coaft, and not fewer than twenty creeks depend* ent upon it, is no more than a tide haven, with s bar that fometimes fhifcs ; but with fome expence might be rendered both large and commodious. The town of Peterhead {lands at the mouth of the water of Eugie, and has » road which will contain a hundred fhips. At this place it is faid to be high- water when the moon is dire£lly fouth. Inverury is a fmall town, but pleafantly fituated on the Don, and is a royal borough. Here king Robert Bruce, though fick and carried in a horfe- litter, defeated John Cummins, and the other parti- zans of Edward I. This was the firft vidiory he obtained, and that which laid the foundation of his fubfequent conquefls, Near the fame place, at Har- law, in 1411, Alexander Stuart, earl of Mar, de- feated Donald of the Ifles, in a bloody battle. Kintore is alfo fituated on the Don, and is • royal borough. The town of Fraferfburgh is furnifhed with an ex- cellent harbour, in which thirty fhips may winter at once, with great fafety. From this place the coaft trends away due weft, and quitting the {hire of Aber- deen we enter that of Banift*. BAMFFSHIRE. This county is fubdivided into the diftridls of BamfF, Strathdovern, Boyne, Enzy, Balveny, Strath- avin, and part of Buchan. The chief town is BamfF, a royal borough, fitu- ated on the river Devon, or Dovern, which tifes a few 528 H M O R N [Europe. few milei north from the Don, and falls into that part of the German ocean ftyled the Murray Firth, where it forms two fmall harbours for the ttfwn. BamfF is neither large nor rich, but tolera- bly well-built, and neat. What trade it has con- fifts in the exportation of corn and pickled falmon. The linen manufaflure begins to fpread in its neigh- bourhood : but as its ports can receive only vcfTels of fmall burden, there is not much to be expe£ied from its commerce. Here are the ruins of an old caftle ; near which is the abbey of Deer, formerly belong- ing to the Ciftercian monies. Not far hence is a grand modern edifice, ere£ted by the late earl of Fife, but which never yet has been completed. It is of a fquare form, with feveral towers, and furrounded on every fide by columns of excellent architeflure. Eight miles from BamfF (lands Cullen, an ancient royal borough. It is chiefly remarkable for its fal- mon iifliery, and the fruitful foil of the adjacent country ; for having no port, it is a place of little trade. At the entrance of the town is a noble feat belonging to the earl of Finlater. The town of Fochabers lies in a hollow, clofe to the banks of the Spey, and conl'ifts chiefly of one flrcct, a mile long, in which, however, the houfes arc frequently feparated at a little dillance from each other. The river Spcy, which is fuppofed to be the Tuefis of Ptolemy, rifes in the mountains of Bade- nocb, in the (hire of Invernefs, its waters quickly fpreading to fucb an extent, as to become a fmall lake, called Loch Spey; from which refuming the form of a river, it proceeds feveral miles fouth-caft. Then fetching a compafs, it turns north-eaft, and in that direction runs many miles, till it reaches Ruth- vcn ; whence digrefling more to the eaft, and receiv- ing many rivulets by the way, it rolls on with a rapid ftream to Rothes ; from which place, dire£l- ing its courfe northwards, it falls into the Frith of Murray, at a place called Garmach, or Garmouth, a creek of no gnat importance, frequented only by fmall veff.'ls. The banks of this river are exceeding beautiful, and adorned for many miles with fine woods. In its courfe through the Bog of Gicht, a part of BamflF- fliiic, it pafics by Gordon-caftle, the chief feat of the duke of Gordon, and one of the nobleft palaces in the North. Balvcnie, in this county, abo inds with alum- llone } and in the diftriiSl of the Boyne great quarries of fpotted marble have been difcovered. S H I R E of E L G I N. Proceeding weftward along the Murray Frith, or that great bay of the fca, which extends from Fra- zerfburgh, in the county of Aberdeen, to the north- point of Caithnefs, we arrive in the (hire of Elgin, a part of the ancient province of Murray, It is faid, that in the plains of this (hire, they have forty days of fair weather in the year, more than any other coun- ty in Scotland; and fuch is the falubrity of the air, that eiglity years are reckoned no great age to the fober and temperate among the inhabitants, Thiw county is no lefs pleafant than fertile, and abounds with villages and gentlemen's feats. The capital of this county is Elgin, » royal bo- rough fituated on the river Lofiie, which after run- ning a Short courfe falls into the Murray Frith a little below the town. It eonfiils of one long ilreet, and feveral fliorter, having a neat church in the middle. The houfes are almoft all built upon arches, wliich form a commodious piazza. This was anci. ently a bifliop's fee ; and here are the ruins of one of the mod {lately cathedral churches in the kingdom. The greater part of the end walls yet remains ; as do likewife fome magnificent pillars. On a large mount, at the other end of the town, are the ruins of an ancient caflle, which was dcmoliihed in the Danifh wars. The river LolTie, which almoft furrounds this town at a fmall dillance, is famous for falmon : of which there is annually pickled and exported from eighty to a hundred l-its, all taken in a few months of the fummer, and in the fpace of one mile, at the village of Garmach. The fifli are taken with hooked tridents in the day ; by night with wicker bafiiets, or little boats covered with hides ; into which none will venture but fuch of the natives u are ufed to them. The borough of Forres is pleafantly fituated at the end of feveral ridges of mountains, and confifts of one large (Ireet, where every houfe is accommodated with a garden. Here are the ruins of an old caftle, in which, it is faid, the kings of Scotland ufed to refide. Contiguous to the town is a fiat pillar of ftone, about five foot broad, which rifes about twenty-three foot above the ground, and reaches twelve or fifteen foot below it, as the inhabitants of the neighbour- hood relate. It is covered with a variety of hiero- glyphical figures, of which fome are ftill vifible and dillinfl. The whole flone above ground is divided into feven compartments, the lowed of which is almoft concealed by fome fteps, or fupports, lately placed at the expence of the countefs of Murray, to fecure it from falling. The fecond contains many figures, but moft of them defaced. In the third are feveral of a monftrous form, refembling four-footed beads with human heads ; and others of men (landing by them. In the fourth divifion are fix or feven enfigns or (landards, with fome figures, holding obfcure wea- pons in their hands. The fifth and fixth divifions are filled with figures of the like kind ; and in the up- permod have been others, which are now modly obliterated. On the reverfe of this ftone is the repre- fentation of a crofs ; beneath which are two Gothic human figures. According to fome antiquaries, this pillar is a fe- pulchral monument either of a Dani(h or Scotch king; but Camden is of opinion, that it was ere£led to commemorate a vi£lory obtained by king Malcolm Mac-Kenneth over Sweno king of Denmark. NAIRN Scotland The {hire the province of Elgin by t the hilU of fpread into ning fouth- Loch-Moy, ftands Moy- The river i( paffing by < military roa north-eaft, into which fmaller ftre: running at declining a |thc air, to the Thu Ibounds Scotland.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 529 N I R N. The (hire of Nairn forms the remaining part of the province of Murray, and is feparatcd from that of Elgin by the river of Findorn. I'his river rifes in the hills of Monchrolky, where its waters quickly fpread into a lake ; pafling out of which, and run- ning fouth-weft, they foon form a larger, called Loch-Moy, where is a conflderable illand, upon which Hands Moy-Hall, the feat of the laird of Mackintofli. The river ifluing thence, takes a wide compafs, and pafSng by Conbrugh, through which runs the great military road to Invernefv, turns gradually to the north-eaft, becoming the boundary of the two fliires into which Murray is divided. After receiving many fmaller ftreams, crolSng the wood Tornaway, and running at a little diftance from the tov/n of Forres, declining a little to the north-weft, it falls into a bafon, which receives liUewife a lefs river that runs through Forres ; and 'wo other little flreams, which together make a pretty good harbour, though dry when the tide is out, and with a bar at the mouth of the river. Nairn, the capital of this county, is a royal bo- rough and a fea-port town. It (lands on a river of the fame name, which falls into the Murray Frith ; but the harbour is capable of receiving only fmall veflcls. Over the river is a handfomc ftone-bridge of one arch ; and along its banks are fcattered the feats of many gentlemen. It is faid, that near Hcan-caftle, in this county, was found in the year 1406, a fine marble veflel cu- rioufly carved, which was full of Roman coins of various forts ; and that feveral old forts and mounts have been fcen h<^re, which evidently appeared to have been the work of the Romans. Weftward of Nairn lies the fmall (hire of Cromar- tie, which is fometimes confldered as a part of Rofs, and receives its name from a royal borough, upon the Frith of Cromartie. U extends in a narrow (Irip of land from weft to eaft, where it is bounded by the Murray Frith. Here flands the town of Fortrofe, pleafantly fituated in a valley, between fruitful hills. It was formerly a bi(hop's fee, and had a (lately ca- thedral, with a calllc, in which the blfhop rcfided. Cromartie bay, or frith, is noted for being the (ineft harbour, with perhaps the leaft bufinefs, of any in Britain. It is fifteen miles long, and in many places two miles broad ; and, like Milford-Haven in Wales, is capable of receiving the royal navy of Great Britain ; but for want of trade, this noble harbour is almofl totally unemployed. This county is the largcft in Scotland, and con- tains, befides Cromartie, three towns of fome note. One of thefe is Chanoury, fo called from a college of regular canons that flouriflied there. It ftands in the pcninfula between the bays of Cromartie and Mur- ray, among pleafant and fertile hills, and has a ferry over the Frith into Murray. It was anciently the fee of a bi(hop, and had a large cathedral, a part of which yet remains ; and a caftle in which the bifhop refidcd. Here is a (lately houfe belonging to the earl of Seaforth, No. 44. Teyne is a royal borough, fituated likcwife in 4 fruitful country ; and has a confiderable trade, from its communication with the VVeftcrn '(lands and its herring fi(hery. Dingwal, which is alfo a royal borough, is fituated at the bottom of the Frith of Cromartie, and has a pretty good market. Two miles weft.cf this place, on the hill of Knochfarril, is a curious piece of antiquity, lately in- veftigated with great care by Mr. Williams. This hill is about nine hundred foot of perpendicular height, of an oblong figure, exceeding (leep on both fides ; but the declivity at each end is by an eafy defcent. The area within the walls is a hundred and twenty paces long, and about forty broad. At the defire of the board of the annexed eftates in Scot- land, Mr. Williams made a fedlion of the ruins on this hill ; in profecuting which he began not exadlly in the middle, but a little nearer the eaft-end. At firft nothing was met with but rich black mold, made by the dung of (heep and goats which had been accumulated for ages, and whk.. was mixed with large (lones and fragments of vitrified ruins. This continued the fame for feveral yards, only that the flones and fragments were more numerous the farther the workmen advanced j and when they came near the ruins of the wall, they met with little befides (lones and fragments of the vitrified matter. When they had advanced to the ruins of the wall on the fouth-fide, they found it difficult to get through, on account of th! hardnefs of the vitrified matter. With the help of crows, however, and plenty of hands, they tumbled over fome very large fragments, which at firft went whole down the hill j but gaining velocity in their defcent, they dafhed to pieces againft the rock«, and ended in a thick (hower of particles at the bottom of the hill. In examining the north -fide they began without the wall, immediately in the vitrified rubbi(h ; and foon came to pretty high ruins of a wall, extremely hard and ftrong. The height of the ruins of this wall is naw no Icfs than twelve foot perpendicular ; and as in this fituation they occupy a confiderable extent of ground, the original altitude of the wall muft have been very great. From the appearance of thefe ruins, it was con- jeflured that this hill had formerly been a volcano ; but Mr. Williams fcems fully to eftablifti his opi- nion, that it had been a fort j evincing at the fame time, that the furrounding wall was vitrified by the force of fire, and owed not its confidence tc any plaf- tic matter that had been poured amongft the ftones. On the infide of the furrounding wall, there arc ruins of vitrified buildings, which feem to have been worfe e> ecuted, and are therefore more decayed than the outCk walls. It is conje>Elured, that thofe inner works have been a range of habitations, reared againft, or under the (hade of the outer wall. They app'.ar to have been coniinuej quite round the area, but have been much higher cii the notth-fide, face- ing the fun, than on the oppofite aCpcf^. Within the walls were d:fcovcre(i the ruins of fome wells, in 6 R ei-h 1 m 5 so H MODERN (EukOHE. each of which the workmen found more than three 1 largcrt, is fourteen miles long ; nnJ in niaiiy of tjicm foot of water. ~"-' plcafant illatids. 1 lie full name of this hill is Knochfarril naphian, j 'I'bo north pait of this county is fcparatcj fiom which is faid to fignify in tl.t Celtic language. Fin- i the wtft by mountains, and is called Stiathnuvcr, gal's place on Knochfarril. The vulgar tradition is, i fioin the river Navcr which rims through it. 'J'hli that this was the habitation of giants ; the chief of I diHrict has good harbours, and iiiaiiy woods, with whom is (aid to have been Rec Phian Mac Coul, | great herds of black cattle, fliccp, goals, and horli.;, or king Fingal the fon of Coul. From the names of | Here is alfo plenty of vcnifon ; and tli ■ inliabitair.s adjacent places, and other circumftances, Mr. Wil- dcfpife thofc who are not fond of huntin;];. liams is led to conjedure that this is the ancient Here are fevcral monuments of viilorits galiitil Sclnia, fo much celebrated in the poems of Oflian. i over the D.ines, particularly one at Knbo, wluili ii Vitrified forts of the fame kind have been difco- a Hone crofj, faid to be eieilcd over a Danifli king. vered in other parts of Scotland, particularly on the hill of Craig-Phadrik, nr Craig Fctcrick, two miles weft of Invernefs i Caftle Finley, and Dun-Evan, Dornoch, the capital of this county, is fituatcd on the Murray Frith, and, though in general a place of little trade, has lour annual fairs, which arc much in the Ihirc of Nairn, and of Finhavcn in the (hire of I frequented. This was formerly the fee of a bifljop ; Angus. ""d had a cathedral for the dioccfe of Caithiiefs, The (Itire of Rofs is for the nioft part mountain- | wiih a caftle bcloniing to the earl of Sutherland, eus and woody towards the weftern ocean, but on i and the family buryingplace. that fide next to the Murray Frith it is much bet- I Brora is a burgh of barony at the mouth of a river ter cultivated and fruitful. The lochs or lakes on of its own name. In its neighbourhood arc mines of the weft coaft, in the proper fcafon, abound with excellent coal ; and a great deal of fait is here made herrings ; particularly Loch-Eu, which is divided into two parts, one a bay of the fea, and the other a frefh-water lake, extending about nine miles in its greateft length, and tnrce miles in breadth where it is widcft. On the fame coalt is Loch-bryan, another bay that runs ten miles up the country, and is alfo famous for herrings. North of thcfe lakes arc two mountainous diftriiEls, called Coygach and Aflynt, which abounc with deer. H'^re are alfo huge rocks of marble, and kvcral gen tlemcn's feats towards the coaft. The middle part of the county, called Ardrofs, is mountainous and thinly inhabited, but affords many fpots fit (or pafture. Another diftriiS, called Ard- mcanoth, extending in the form of a pcninfula be- tween the bayu of Cromartie and Murray, is alfo mountainous ; fomc parts of it, however, being fertile. SUTHERLAND. North of Rofi-fliire lies the county of Sutherland, which is k'f! mountainous than the preceding, but more fit for pafture than for agriculture. The val- leys, however, are pleafant, fertile, and well inlia bited. It abounds with black cattle, fheep, deer, and wild fowl ; and it is faid that all the deer bred on the hill of Arkil have forked tails. Here are three remarkable forcfts, bcfiJcs many other wooJs that afford game, which the inhabitants arc fond of hunt- ing. The country likeuife contains a great quan- tity of white marble, frce-flonc, liMe-ftonc, iroii- itonc, and good flate ; and though fituated fo far north, we are informed tli.it it produces good faft'ron. One fort of bird, called by the inhabitants a kna:;, ii faid to be peculiar to thole nortliern diftri:ls. It xefcmbles a parrot, and ("coops its ncil with its beak in the trunk of trees. In this county arc above fixty lakes, abounding with fwans, gcefc, ducks, and other fowls j and <,oii- tiin vaft ijuaniitics of fi(h. Loch. fin, which is the and exported. C A I T H N E S S. Caithne('s is the moft northern divifion of ScotLind, and lies eaftward of Sutherland, from which it is fe- parated by a trafl of mountains. This county abounds with gentlemen's feats ; .ind contains likewife many little towns and villages. The chief of thofe is Wick, a royal borough, fituated on the eaftern coaft, and which has a good harbour. Thurfo is fituated on the northern coaft, on a little bay, and has likewife a good harbour. CHAP. VII. 0/ the Ijlands of Shetland and Orhiey. ' I "■ H E Shetland or Zetland ifles are fituated on the north-eaft coaft of Scotland, between fif- ty, nine degrees fifty minutes and fixty degrees forty- eight minutes of north latitude, and between fifty minutes of eaft and one degree fifty minutes of weft longitude. They are in number about forty- fix ; but only twenty-fix are inhabited, which, ex- cepting three or four, are of little note. The chief ifland, called Shetland, and alfo the Mainland, is about fixty miles long, and in fome places twenty broad, but in others not more than two. The whole coaft, a few places excepted, is lined with high and inacce/Tible rocks ; and the inte- rior part of the country is mountainous, and abounds with morafics. In fome places, however, then; ate fpots of land both fmooth and fertile. The eaft of the main-land, from which it is divided by an arm of the fca, called Yell Sound, This ifland is fiip. pofed by Mr. Maulc to have been the ancient Thule. It i« *■ .J to be twenty miles long, and eight broad ; it is mountainous and mofly, but affords confiderable pi- (lures for fheep. Here are eight large voes, or harbourr. befides many fmaller bays. It feems to have been for- merly Well inhabited, as it contains tiiree churches, twenty chapels, and many brughs, or Piiflifh forts. There are dependent upon it, Hafcorca, two miles long, and one broad ; Samphra, and Bigga : all pf them iflands very fertile in grafs. To the fouth-weft lies Fetlar, or Theodore's Ifle, nine or ten miles in compafs, wich a church, ten chapels, and many brughs. It has feveral creeks for fmall boats, but no- thing that deferves the name of a port. The other of thofe two large larger iflands is Unff, which is alfo one of the mod northern of all the Shit- land ifles, being at the fame time the pleafanted, and not the kid fertile among them. It lies at a fmal' diftance eaft from Yell, from which it is feparated by an arm of the fca, called Blumel Sound. Unft is eight miles long, between three and four broad, and divided into twenty-four fcattalds, or portions of land. Here is a little very fertile arable ground, with fome good pafture, and great plenty of heather and peat. The ifland contains three churches, twenty-four chapels, and eleven brughs. At the fouthern extre- mity flood ;. caftle called Mownes, now in decay. There are two c.\cell it harbours, the one in thd fouth, called Via Bay, and which is covered by an ifland of the fame name, is large and commodious, having nine fathom water, and good anchoring-ground. The other is on the eaft fide, covered by the ifle of Belton, and thence called Belta Voe. This is alfo very fafe and fpacious, with eight fathom water. The number of inhabitants in Unft and its depend- encie.- may be about fifteen hundred ; and they have feventy filhing-boats. The ifland of Via produces groat plenty of fine grafs ; and the fame may be faid of Belta, which is alfo well flocked with rabbits. Between fix and feven le.igues weft from the miin- ind lies the ifland of Fifla, or Foula, commonly called by our feamen Foul Ifland. It is about three miles long, narrow, and full of rough, fteep, and bare rocks; one of which is fo large, and runs up to fo great a height, as to be clearly feen from the Ork- neys. This therefore may be efteemed, with the greateft probability, to be the Thule of Tacitus, whatever may have been that of the Phcenicians and Greeks. It has hardly any pafturage, and but a very little arable land, which is, however, extremely fertile, and ferves, with the fowl and fifli, for the fubfiftence of the poor inhabitants. Here is nothing that can be called a port ; and the only commodities are ftock- fifh, train-oil, and feathers. Fair Ifle lies between Shetland and Orkney, ten leagues fouth-weft from the former, and about twelve eaft north- eaft of the latter. It is three miles long, and fcarce half a mile broad, very crapgv, with three higb (I i S3* H B M O D E R N [ EUROPE' high rocks, which are clearly fecn Ixith from Orlcncy and Shcil»nJ. I'here is ii\ thi> ifl.ind alto a fnull quantity of arable land, which ii well manured, and very fruid'ul. Here arc a good many flierp, but no kind of moor-fowl or other game. There is, however, great plenty of Tea and water fowl, and all Icindj of hSh upon the coifts, 'I'he illand is furnifhcd with a pretty church, but no mliiifter, it being annexed t» one of the parifhcs in Shetland, or ferved by an iti- nerant preacher, A layman reads the fcriptures every Sunday in the church ; and the inhibitanis are a fo- ber and honeft people. They have properly no port, though two arc dillinguilhed by that name. One is at the fouth end, which is full of rocrks, where only fmall bua:s ran lie, and that but indift'erently. The other, which is at tlic north-cad end, is larger, and fcrvcs commuiliuufly fur their (iOiery, On the coali of this ifland was lhi|>wreckcii the duke of Medina Sido- nia, commander of the famous Spanlfh armada. The vcfl'el broke to piece;,, but the duke, and about two hundred more, elcaped. They lived here till both themfelves and the inhabitants were near tamilhed. At length the duke, and the poor remains of his people, Were carried over to the main land of Shetland by An- drew Humphry. After continuing foineiimc at Queen- dale, they embarked on board the fame fmall (liip, and were fatcly conveyed to Dunkirk ; lor which fervice the duk" rewarded Humphry with three thoufand marks. This ifland produced its late proprietor be- tween fifty and fixty pounds a-year, and was fold a few years fincc at Edinburgh for about eight hundred and fifty pounds. The Shetland iflands, during four months in the year, enjoy almofl perpetual day ; but their fituation in winter is propurtionably gloomy, and much ex- pofcd to violent florms. But though the air at this feafon be extremely cold, many of the natives live to great age. By uling much falt-fifli, however, they are very rubjciS to the fcurvy, againft which nature has furniflied them with plenty of fcurvygrafs. As no grain agrees with the foil fo well as barley, their bread is moR\y of this kind ; and their common drink is whey, which they barrel up, and keep in cold cel- lars, Some drink butter-milk, mixed with water; but thofe in more affluent circumflances have beer, ale, and wine. During their long winter-nights they burn oil, which they make of the livers of iifli. I'he inhabitants of the fmaller iflcs maintain themfelves in fummer by catching fowl, and taking their eggs i and make confidcrablc profit by felling their down and feathers, I'hcy catch the fowl by climbing the rocks, at which they are very dexterous ; and likewife by being let down from the top by ropes, while they fit in a bafket. Their fuel is turf, peat, and heath. They make coarfe cloth, knit duckings and gloves for their own ufe, and fur fate to the Norwegians ; but their mofl profitable export is fifh. Here is abundance of little horfcs, called fhelties, fit both for the [I'ough and faddle, though they are fo light, that a man can lift them from the ground. They arc of two forts, the pycd and the black ; but the lat- ter are the bell. They are never houfed, and when they have no grafs, live upon fea-weeJs, which nii inly be ha (ff K AS T Ipu y-'tV/// • ft" JUfi r /ttTfftJVMvT /■"y.- /iA/,1 1} X. Tmin'c of\ Cniipar NVdW o J^ O KquimwHaL '■/I.Umr/.- *f«' -'*i 'a \il^ Str.«.f Miinl«u -»«^S^ Ul1j ■ MimJurAl 4 ^fcSIV 7^ ■'.1/"/'/. ' ■ 'Iwirt'c tI t,tnr ;• nbnr ^_ E I TS^ T) AS T E tt i« C> 11 I A T* O <' K VtTlntiltf-ar A KT yXnov ISajt fiom, ZiafitAvi Vi mona, lie the ifles of Hoia or Hoy, and of Waes or Wells, which, at the low ebbs after fpring-tides, make but one ifland. Confidered in this light, it is about nine iniles long, and five broad in the wideft parts but in fome places not above one. Hoy, which it the northern part, is the moil mountainous of all thofc ifles ; the hills being very high, and the valleys extremely deep, afFord ftrikirg and romantic profpcfls. There are more bufhes and birch-treci in this than in all the other iflands, but the foil is heathy and barren, abounding, however, with game, particularly hares, which are white in the winter, and which creature is not to be found in any other of thofe iflands. Here are alfo great numbers of the fpecies of bird called the liar, which is much eftecmcd. On the weft fide of the illand is a kind of natural fortrefs, called lirobury, anciently reckoned impregnable. Wells, and particu- larly that part called South Wells, is flat, fertile, and pleafant, There are in thefe ifles three good ports. No, 45. breadth, fruitful in barley and grafs, and has a fafe harbour called Elwick. This ifland formerly made part of the eftate of the bifliop of Orkney. Fine lead- ore has been difcoveted in feveral places on the fuuth- eaft. A large holm called Halgar, which lies near it, covers the port of Elwick, and affords excellent pa- Aure. To the north-eaft lies Stronfj, feparated from the preceding by a frith about five miles broad. This ifland is feven miles in length, and four in breadth, very fertile, and abounding with all the neccflaries of life. On the fouth-weft runs out a pcninfula, called Roufliolm-hcad, which affords great plenty of peat. This peninfula forms the weft fide of a harbour called Rouftiolm-bayjbefides which there are three others, one on the weft, covered by Ling-holm, and called Linga- found ; Strynie, on the north, defended by the little ifland of Papa-Stronfa ; and a little to the fouih-weft of this, Mill;. bay. In former times this ifland was 6 S n,gci, ■ , r S3 hi. an qu ve kil g^ M ff on ne Su bei th< •hi rm oti fcr thi nia vc( hui the len wei dre iial< \vc. the niai twe yc» I ycai in poU te4 are has no . breau is muiuy ui mis K.IIIU •, ana tneir commcn drink is whi'y, which they barrel up, and keep in cold cel- lars. Some drink hutter-milk, mixed with water; but fhofc in more a/Huent circumflancei have beer, ale, and wine. During their long winter-nights they burn oil, which they make of the livers of filh. The inhabitant: of the fmaller iflcs maintain themfclves in fummcr by catching fo.vl, and taking their eggs ; and make confidcrable profit by felling their down and feailiers. 1 hey catch the fowl by climbing the rocks, at which they are very dexterous ; and likewife by being let down from the top by ropes, while they fit in a baflcet. Their luel is turf, peat, and heath. They make coarfe cloth, knit duckings and gloves for their own ufe, and for fale to the Norwegians j but their mod profitable export is fifh. Here is abundance of little horfes, called ftielties, fit boih f.ir the [j'.ough and faddle, though they are fo light, that a man can lift them from the ground. They arc of two funs, the pyed and the black ; but the lat- tfi- are the bell. They are never houfcd, »nd when rir-»»rn»wt«l.»rrr*tTrtt.' length, and Tn fome 'places four in breadth } but from Kirkwall to the oppofite fea not above two miles broad. Here are feveral mountains and lakes, but the greater part of the ifland is flat and fruitful. Kirk- wall, the only town in thof: iflands, ftretches near a mile in length, on the eaft fide of a fine bay, which affords a commodious harbour. The houfes, which are generally well built of ftone, and handfomely flated, arc about three hundred, and the place feems to be increafing. In the centre is fituated the cathedral church of St. Magnus, a large and beautiful ftruiSlure, in the form of a crofs, (landing uprn pillars, and ad- orned with a high ftceple. Hc.-c were formerly two palaces, one called the King's, and the other the Bilhop's. This is a royal borough, in which arc held the (herifF's and commiflary's courts, with the fynod of the clergy ; and here are likewife a cuftom-houfe and a po(t-houfc. At Uirfa, in the north-wed corner of the ifland, Robert and Patrick, earls of Orkney, built a ir.iignificent palace, part of which is yet ftand- ing. a BcfiJes Scotland.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 533 but niles : the jrlc- :ar a hich I are ited, I be dral urc, ad. two the lelJ nod lufe ner ey. ld- dcs ' Bendci that of Kirkwall, there ire In Pomona three good porti, viz. Deer Snund, iii the north- eaft end of ihc ifland ; Orimfhall, on the Tuuth-eaO fide i and the buy of C.iitdon, row called Stromnefi, at the fouth-wcll extrcmitv. At the l:iticr ii a vil- lage of the fame name, the moft nuted and the bed fre- quented in the Orlcneyi. The number of the South IHes, or thoCe which lie to the foulh of the main land, is twelve ; viz. Suin:^, or Swinna, Suda, South KonaldOii, Waei or Weill, Hoia or Hoy, Graemfej Cava, South Fara, Ryfa, Flotta, Burra, and Caupinfha ( differing much fro,.. one another in flze, and lilccwife in quality. Among thofe the moft conndcrable ii South Ro- * naldiha, which lies nearcft to the continent of Caith- lie fa } the ufual ferry bcinjj between Durwie in this ifland, and Duncan's Bay on the continent. It is be- tween fcven and eight miles long, in fonie phces five broad, in others hardly two j producing coiifidcrablc quantities of barley and oats, as well as great plenty of good grafs ; and its coafts nbuund with cod and ling. A vein of lead ore has been difcovercd near Orimncfs, in the north-eaft p.irt of the ifland, and an- other near Widewall, on the wefl fide. Here are a few hills and lakes, with two very good ,. -ts, one on the north fide, called St. Margaret's Hope, and the other at Widewall, South-weft of the preceding lies the little ifland of Swinna, remarkable for a fine quarry of flute, but chiefly for two whirlpools, called the Wells of Swinna. To the northward of South Ronaldfha lies the ifland of Burra, feparatcd by a narrow ftrait called Water Scund, This ifland is four miles in length, from caft to weft j in fome two, and in others one mile broad ; abounding in corn, grafs, and peat, and well furnifhed with ftores for building. Between this and Pomona lie Lamb Holm, fertile in corn and grafs ; Glumps Holm, affording good pafture ; and Ilunda, overgrown with heath, and affording fhelter to great numbers of wild fowl. Weft from South Ronaldfha, and fouth from Po- mona, lie the ifles of Hoia or Hoy, and of Waes or Wells, which, at the low ebbs after fpring-tides, make but one ifland. Confidercd in this light, it is about nine miles long, and live broad in the wideft parts but in fome places not above one. Hoy, which it the northern part, is the moft mountainous of all thofe ifles ; the bills being very high, and the valleys extremely deep, aftbrd (triking and romantic profpcfis. There are more bufhcs and birch-trees in this than in all the other iflands, but the foil is heathy and barren, abounding, however, with game, particularly hares, which arc white in the winter, and which creature is not to be found in any other of thofe iflands. Here are alfo great numbers of the fpecies of bird called the liar, which is much efteemed On the weft fide of the ifland is a kind cf .-.atural fortrefs, called Brobury, anciently reckoned impregnable. Wells, and particu- larly that part called South Wells, is flat, fertile, and pleafant. There are in thcfe ifles three good ports. No, 45- via, Orchope, Longho.ie, and Kirkhope, all very fafc and conimodiou«. At a fmall diftance to the caft of Ho;', lies the little ifland cf Ryfi. a fertile and pleafant fpot, Aboit two miles north eaft of thi% and nearly the f.,ine dif- t.iiice from Pomona, is fituatcd Cava, another fmall ifland, overgrown with heath, which aft'urdi (hclter to abundance of wild-fowl, particularly the lyft, a fmall but, very high flavoured birJ, On the coaft of this ifl,in>l are great quantities of excellent fifl) of various kinds. Between Pomona and Hoy, about .i mile diftant from each, lies Graemfa, a pleafant ifland, about live miles in circumference, The fhore is formed by a chain of fharp and ftecp rocks i but the interior part of the country is flat, and fertile in corn and grafs. Their peat and heath for fuel the inhabitants receive from Pomona, fur a communication with which this ifland lies very conveniently, as covering the port of Strom- nefs, Coupinfha, more properly Coupnanfce, or the Mer- chant Ifle, lies diredlly eaft from Pomona. It is a fmall, but very high ifland, which with a rock near it, c-'li-d the Horfe of Coupinfha, ferves as a fea-mark for ..II ftiips bo ind from the eaftward ; on which account it received its name. It is about a mile in length, hardly half as much in breadth, and remarkable only fur its fituation. The North Ifles, or thofe lying to the north of Po- mona, are fifteen, vi/.. Damfa, Shipinfha, Gcrfa, Vera, Egleftia, Raufa, Weftra, Papa-Wcllra, North- Fara, Eda, Alhallow or Inhallo, Stronfa, Papa- Stronfa, Sanda, and North- Ronaldflia. Damfa is a fmall ifland, lying at the foot of Wyt- fall, in a bay v( Pomona, about a mile, or fomewhac lefs in circumference, plain, pleafant, and for its fize fruitful. Here was formerly a nunnery ; and near it is a Holm, called Grimfbutler, almoft as large as Damfa, and which was once elegantly laid out in gardens. Shapinftia lies three miles north-eaft of the town of Kirkwall ; it is four miles long, almoft as much in breadth, fruitful in barley and grafs, and has a fafe harbour called Elwick, This ifland formerly made part of the eftate of the bifhop of Orkney. Fine lead. ore has been difcovercd in feveral places on the fouth- eaft. A large holm called Halgar, which lies near it, covers the port of Elwick, and affords excellent pa- fture. To the north-eaft lies Stronfj, feparated from the preceding by a frith about five miles broad. This ifland is feven miles in length, and four in breadth, very fertile, and abounding with all the neccffaries of life. On the fouth-weft runs out a peninfula, called Roulholm-head, which affords great plenty of peat. This peninfula forms the weft fide of a harbour called Roufholm-bay;befides which there are three others, one on the weft, covered by Ling-holm, and called Linga- found ; Strynie, on the north, defended by the little ifland of Papa-Stronfa ; and a little to the fouth-weft of this, Milh-bay. In fcrnier times this ifland was 6 S much 1 •;•! !li 53+ THE MODERN lEuKopr. much frfquenlcJ by (hip|iing : it wai very populouii ind the inhibitanti hid a cunfidcuble trade With all the northern nations ind « valuable fidiery ruund a great rock near it, called Outketry, about a mile and a half in circumlerence, and which ii stry fertile in corn and grafi, but without pvat. Two milei north of 8tron(a Ilea Sanda, cneemed tbe lurgeft of all thefe iflands, next to Pomona. It ii of an irregular figure, interfeiQcd on every fide by deep inlet! of the Tea, It ii twelve milei long, in fome pliccB only one broad, in others two, but in none tbova three milei. Here are fcvcral hilli, and many lochi, fome of which are of conftderable extent. It it fruitful in corn and grafi, but affbrdi no peat or turf. It ii alfo defeflive in refpcA of porti, for though there be two under that name, they are both fmall and (hallow. North-and-by-ea(l of Stronfa, lie* North Ronald- (ha, the moft remote of thofe iflands, a> well lowjrJi the north as to the ead. It is three miles long, and one broad, moftly flat, and fufficiently fruitful bath in corn and grafs, but without an^ ,*at. The fea on its coafls is very tempeftuoui, and th.'re it properly nothing that can be called a port. Here was formerly a very neat church, dedicated to St. Olaus, Returning to the wed, we begin with Eda, Ethic, or Heath, which lies north from Shapinfha, north-weft from Sirunfa, and wed from Sanda. This ifland is about eight miles long, and two broad, hilly, covered with heath, and abounding in peat, with which it Tup- plies fcvcral o(' the other illands. in other refpe£ts it is not very fertile. On the north-ead of it is a large grafTy holm, called the Calf of Eda, between which and the ifle is a very fafe road, In the lad century this was the property of Stuart earl of Carrick, who built a good houfe on the illand ; and having ere£)cd proper works on the Calf of Eda, made there very fine fait. This is fuppofed by fome to be the Ocetii of Ptolemy. Three miles weftward of Eda, lies Wcdra, a very beautiful ifland, nine miles long, and five broad. The country is finely diverfified with hills and plaint, abounding with barley, grafs, cattle, flieep, rabbits, wild and fea ''owl, as well as with fifh upon the coads. On the north wefl are the remains cf the cadle of Maitland, which was begun, but not finifhed, by Hepburn duke of Orkney. Near the mofl weflern part of the illand is the li'tle harbour of Pierowal, where velTels that draw under :en foot water may lie with great fafety. At the didance of two miles eaftward is fituated Papa-Wedra, a pleafant, and not unfertile idand, three miles long and one broad, celebrated in former times for St. Friedwald's chapel and loch, of which many fabulous dories are dill related. About a league weft from Eda, and four north-ead from Pomona, lies the illand of Eglua, or Egilfha, three miles long and one broad. It is a pleafant, fruit- ful ifland, didinguifhcd by a neat little church, in which is faid to lie the body of St. Magnus, the pa- tron of thofe ifles. Half a league fouth-wed of Egillha, and about the fame didance north-raft from I'oniona, lies Wire, two milei long and one broad, very firiilu in barley ana grif>, but afTordiiig no peat, with which it it fupplicJ fioin the other iflandi. Two miles foulh from Wire, about the fame di- dance norih-wrft fiom Shapinfha, and hulf a league north. wc<» from Pomona, lies ih« fmjjl ifljnd ol Giarfa, two miles long and one broad, with a pyra- midal. (haped hill in the middle. Part of this iflund running out in a pcninfula on the ead fide, forms wlut is called the Hen of Giarfa, between which and the body of the ifland there is a commodious little creek. A very narrow found feparaies Pomona from Ron- fa, which lies north from if, and is a fjjuare ifland, between four and five miles in length from north to fouih, and about four in breadth. It is mountainous on the weft and fouth fides, as well as in the middle, but in the other parts it is flat, and fertile in grafs. Here is a great deal of heath and peat, with whuh many of the neighbouring iflandi are hence fupplied. It it well fupplied with cattle, fheep, rabbits, fowl, and Afti, and is very healthy and pleafant. On the eaft it is fe. parated from Egillha by a ftrait about a mil* broad, called Howe Soum', which adbrds a paflag* to the (hips bound to and from Iceland i and it ii divided by another drait called Wire, from the little illand of that name. Between Ronfa, and the north-weft point of Po- mona, lies the little ifle of Allhallow, or Inhallow, about a mile in circumference, and, for iti file, both fertile and pleafant. The drels, language, and cuftoma of the inhabitant! of the Orkneys, are the fame with thofe of the Shet- land iflands. Their trade, however, differs from that of the latter, in not depending on the refort of drangers, but on their own produce. They annually export a great quantity of corn, black cattle, (heep and Twine, as well as of butter, tallow, and fait, with feaU flle of Tytt, by mean* of whom thty wrre iift«rwiidi iniroducfd to the ic- quiinlincc of the (ircrki, I'hcft ifltndi appear to have been conquered by the Norwegiani tuwarda the clofe of the ninth century, when they were conferred on Sigurd, or Sward, a man of « powerful family, who enjoyed them during bi« life, and left them to hii fon Gothurn. The lat- ter dying fuon after without ilTue, the iflandi came iflto the pofleflion of Rongwald, the elder brother of Sigurd, who bellowed them on hit natural fon, Einar, or Eynard, with the title of earl. Thii nobleman ii much celebrated by the Iflandic and Norwegian bardi, for finding out the ufe of turf, without which thefe iflands could fcarccly be inhabited, in their prcfent naked and expofed condition, The illindeti remained feveral igei under a long fucccflSon of thofe princei, and dependent on the king- dom of Norway, undfir a very cafy and equitable con- ilitution I the earl living upon hii demefne lands, the bifliop and clergy having .->lfo a fupport fuitable to their refpeAive ftationi, and t^e inhabitunti enjoying an cxtenfive commerce. This fucceflion of earls ended in Magnus the Fifth, to whom, in right of his mother, fucceeded Malis, carl of Strathern in Scotland, who held the earldoms both of Orkney and Caithnefs. This earl, by two wives, left five daughters, by which the inheritance came to be divided, till it was again united in the family of Sinclair i in the pofleflion of which it tc- maincd when by virtue of the contraA of marriage between James III. king of Scots, and the princefs Margaret, daughter to Chriftian III. king of Den- mark and Norway, all the rights of the laA mentioned monarch were transferred by way of mortgage, redeem- able for fifty thoufand florins, part of the marriage- portion of fixty thoufand florins, to king James. This contraA bears date at Copenhagen, Sept, 8, 1468. Thefe Iflandi being thus transferred, it is evident that king James came only in the place of his father- in-law, Chriftian I. the fovereignty of the iflands be- ing yielded to him, while the adual pofleflion remitined aa before in the earl of Orkney. But by a fubfequcnt tranfaflion between (he fame king and the family of Sinclair, confirmed by an aift of parliament, thefe iflands were annexed to the crown of Scotland, They were governed during that and the fucceeding reign by the king's lieutenants ; and notwithflanding the furrender of the earldom, the family of Sinclair, about the year 1501, obtained a very beneficial grant of the rents of the earldom, v/hich they enjoyed for many years. Not fatisfied with this beneficence, they even attempted to recover the entire pofleflion of the iflands. With this view the earl of Caithnefs and lord Sin- clair, accompanied by a confiderable force, landed in the Orkneys in 1579 ; but they were attacked and routed by the people of the cour.try, when the earl of Caithnefs, with about five hundred of his followers, were killed or drowned, and lord Sinclair and all the reft were made prifoners. Sir James Sinclair, captain of the caAle of Kirk- well, who had diftinguilbed himfelf in oppoAng the attempt of his kinfman, procured from king James I, a grant of the two fine iflandi of Sanda and Eda, upon a falfe fuggeftion that they were only holms fit for grazing, Dut the king being informed of this impofition, and axprefling a very high rcfentment, Sir James was fo terrified on the arrival of the mo- narch It Kirkenwall in 1334, that he threw himfelf into the fea at a place called the Loup of Linkncfs. This monarch was entertained during his flay by the bifliop I and having compofed all the troubles, he carried away with him fome of the moft faAioui per* Tons, that they might create no more difturbancci. Soon after the attempt above mentioned, the king granted the revenues of the iflands to James earl of Murray, which grant, however, did not take efTefl ) but the widow of the lord Sinclair continued to en- joy the beneficial leaie beftowcd on her family, till the year 1540, when the rents of thofe iflands were again let to Sir Ciiver Sinclair at two thoufand pounds a year. In 1565, queen Mary made a grant of them to her natural brother, lord Robert Stuart | which, however, wii revoked on the queen'i coming of age. In 1567, the fame princefs wai prevailed upon, not only to nake a new grant of thefe iflandi to James Hepburn, earl of Bothwell, but to raife hint to the rank o( duke of Orkney. Upon his flight and forfeiture they fell again to the crown, in which flate they continued fome yean ; till lord Robert Stuart reviving hit claim on the vrant made to him feventeen yean before, and Laving great influenca over young king J.imes, at length prevailed fo far, as not only to get that fi;ranc renewed, but to ba created earl of Orkney in 1581. Soon after, I'br fome a£li of oppreflion which he had committed, ths grant was revoked ; in two yean it wai renewed, and confirmed to himfeu .■ 1 his fon, In i6o'>, the latter obtained a new grant, but he treated the in- habitants fo ill, that upon their complaints, he was imprifoned 1 in which flate having excited an opea rebellion, he wai in 1615 convifled of high treafon, and beheaded. After this, to quiet the minds of the people of Orkney, a public proclamation was made by authority from the crown, declaring that thefe iflands fhould never more ba diflevered or granted ia private property. In 1614, Sir James Stuart, afterwards lord Ochil- tree, became the king's farmer-general for thefe iflands i and in a few years after, the complaints againft him were fo great, that he was imprifoned. In 1614, Sir George Hay, the chancellor obtained the collec- tion of the rents, but he furrendered the grant three years after ; and in 1633, upon a very flrong repre- fentation from the people of Orkney, the iflands were again annexed to the crown more ftri£lly than ever. 'I"he rents were let by leafe upon fuch terms as the treafury thought expedient, which were fome- times higher and fometimes lower, according to the relpeflivc interefts of thofe by whom they were ob- tained. At length, in 1643, the earl of Morton pro- cured a grant of thcfc iflands to himfelf and his heiri, with 5i6 II MOD R N [EUROPB, with the whole jurifdidions and regalities, in the na- ture of a mortgage, redeemable upon the payment oF thirty thoufanJ pounds (Icrling, His family was dif- poircHud by Cromwell, who caufcd a fmall fort to be e[C(Sled at Kitkwall, in which he placed a garrifon. After the RcHoration the earl of Mu.ion rcfumed the pofleflion ; but from an apprehenfion that by the ge- neral revocation, thele iflands v/ere again devolved to the crown, a new grant by way of mortgage, was in 1662, obtained from king Charles II. to the lord Vifcount Grandii'on, in truft for the family of Morton. But in 1661;, both this and the former grant were declared null and void, by a decree of the court of feflion ; and the ifles of Orkney and Shet- land were once more annexed to the crown by a very firidt a£l of parliament. The rents were from this time let as they for- merly had been, upon Icafe, particularly in the year 1671, to George Scot, for the annual rent of forty thoufand marks Scots, making two thoufand two hundred and fevcncy-five pounds tifteeen fhillings and fix pence fterling. In 1707, after repeated applica- tions to parliament, relative to the manner in which the grant to tl'e earl of Morton had been difTolved, James, then carl of Morton, procured a new grant, fubjedt to a fue duty of five hundred pounds fter- ling a year ; and by an acl of parliament pafl'ecl ill 1742, this grant was made abfolute and irre- deemable. Befides the crown lands, his lordfhip obtained likewifc a grant of thofc belonging to the bilhoprick of Orkney, which in the time of popery was a fee of conllderable value ; but this grant was fubjcdt to large dedu£lions. The earl of Mor- ton has alfo a temporary grant of the righfs of admiralty ; the admiralty of the iflands of Shetland and Orkney having always been diflinft from that of Scotland. ■ -. CHAP. VIII. Ihe Hebrides or U'ejlirn IJlis. 'Tp H E VVcdern Iflcs of Scotland were called by the ancients i'Ebudre and Hebrides, and have been computed to forin a number no lefs than three hundred. Tiic (Irft confidcrablo idand of this clals which we meet in our prog cfs fouthward, is Lewis ,Tnd Harris, This has been luppofed to be two iflands, but is only one, the liitTercnt parts of which arc united by a narrow iftnmus, that of Lewis being the mod northerly. It is fituateJ fixty-eight miles weft of the main land of Scotland, extending near a hundred mil:^ in length from north to fouth, and ten or twelve in breadth. It is commonly called the Long Ifland j but under this name is fometimes included the range of iflands lying to the fouthward, and which are luppofed to have been once united with this traA. The climate, though none of the mod defirable, cfpecially in the northern part, is yet cfteemed heal- thy. The fprings are backward and bleak ; the lummer fufficiently warm ; the autumn rainy, parti- cu'aily in the month of Oflobcr j the winter fliarp and windy, but the froft not very long or feverc ; neither have they much fnow. The loil is aiallc for aLout fixteen miles on the weft coafl, and iu fome places on the call ; but it is generally Tandy, except the muirs or heaths, which arc partly of nd and partly of black clay ; of which the women here make veO'cls for boiling their meat, and for prefcrv- ing their ale. When manured with Ica-wrcck, the black land is very fertile, and produces large crops , of good barley and rye ; befides oats, peas, beans, potatoes, and all kinds of garden fluff. Hemp and flax likewifc thrive well ; and here is plenty of peat and turf, which fupplies the want of wood ; there being now only a few birch and hazel trees. There are fome quarries of flone, and even of mirble. Gold dull is faid to have been found j and there is much yellow talc. Amber, and ambergris, have been frequently thrown upoi> the coafts. Coral and co- raline grow in Loch Seaforth, and perhaps in other places. Beiidcs a variety of good fprings, fome of which have a particular qualiiy, here are feveral rivers and rivulets, in which are lalmon, trouts, and other ex- cellent fifh. Here are alfo mar.y iiefh-water lakes, particularly that of Laniravat in Lewis, which is twelve miles long and fix broad; and a fmaller lake of the lame name in Harris } all of them plentifully flocked with fifh of difFerent kinds. On the eaU and well fides are feveral inlets of the fea, or falt- lochs, fuch as Broad Loch, Loch Stronowa, Loch Grimfhadar, and many others. In the mountains there are eagles and hawks of feveral difterent kinds, with a great variety of wild fowl. The lakes are covered with an irxredible di- verfity of water fowl, among which may be reckoned the famous anas farenfis, canard a duvet, eider goofe, or as it is called here, the colek, the down of which is fuppofed to be the finefl in the world. Here are (heep, goats, and hogs, in great number, with black cattle, horfes, and deer, fmall indeed in fize, but excellent in their refpetSive kinds The ifland produces no wild beafls, and very few vermin, except the mettrick, which is faid to aflbrd valuable fur. On the coafls are cod, ling, haddock, whit- ing, fkate, turbot, mackarel, and many other kinds of fiflj in great plenty. In fome or other of the lochs there are herrings through all the feafons of the year. Seals and otters are in greater numbers than in the other ifles ; as alfo porpoifes. and whales of almoft every fiie and denomination ; with all the kinds of fhell-iiih, in a degree of excefs, fo as to cover the beaches, v;hen the fea ebbs, where, by cor- rupting in the warm weather, they fometimes infeiSl the air. The inhabitants are generally a flout, aflive, well proportioned people, with their hair for the mofl part of a light brown. In cultivating the ground, they make ufe of what they call a riflle, a kind of fickle plough, drawn by one horfc, and which cuts not a furrow, but a deep line, dividing all the ftringy roots of bent and other plants, that compofe their moors. They afterwards plough with an inftrument which . 1» is alfo draw ove teeth, an the furfac They 1 ufc} «nd men fpui This very' rem druidtcal patiOi of ■ near as on the twelve of Clafit Henge ir The longs ch fouthern Scotland.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 537 is airo pecnliar to themrdvcs ; an'l after Towing, draw over the field a harrow with two rows of crooked teeth, and heather fixed in another row, to fmooth the furface, after the clods have been hrolce. They make woollen cloth and linen, for their own ufej and while they had a market for it, the wo* men fpun r great deal of yarn and thread. This ifland appears to have been inhabited from very' remote times, for here are many monuments of druidical worlhip, fuch as t4ie Trufhel-ftone in the parifl) of Barvas, which is twenty foot high, and very near as many broad. Likewife three upright ftones on the rorth-fide of Loch Carlavy, each of them twelve foot in height ; with a temple at the village of Claflcrnefs, faid to be as remarkable as Stone- Henge in Wiltlhire. The northern part of it, or the Ifle of Lewis, be- longs chiefly to lord Seaforth, and that of Harris, or the fouthern part, to lord Madeod. tJORTH UlST. North Uift, or North Vift, lies to the fouth of Harris, from which it is divided by a found about nine mileo broad, In which is a multitude of very fmall iflands. This ifland is reckoned about thirty miles in circumference. The climate is temperate, and the foil rich 5 there being on the weft-fide a great deal of flat ground, which affords large quan- tities of grain, efpecially barley; as well as excel- lent pafture. On the eaft-fide the ifland is fandy, full of little eminences ; and in the middle moun- tainous, but where grows a great deal of fern, and grafs, fuflicient to feed numbers of cattle and flieep. On the eaft-fide, the inhabitants make large quan- tities of kelp. Loch Maddie is accounted a good harbour. This ifland is capable of great improvement, and belongs to lord Macdonald. t BENBECULA. Benbecula lies to the fouth of North Uift, from which it is divided by a found feven miles broad. This ifland is ten miles in circumferc.ice s on the weft-fide plain and fruitful, but on the eaft fandy and full of little hills. Here was formerly a large nunnery, which is now the refidence of Mr, Macdonald of Clonronald, the proprietor of the ifle. SOUTH U I S T. South Uift is feparatcd from Benbecula by a nar- row found, which is fordable at fome places at low water. This ifland is thirty-fix miles long from north to fouth, and in breadth from four to feven. On the weft- fide is s tt»£t of flat land, containing about forty thoufand acres, very rich and fertile. This, befides excellent pafture, produces lerge crops of fine barley. Hemp and flax thrive exceedingly. Here are great numbers of black cattle, with Iheep which have very fine wool ; and the coaft abouiids with all forts of white fifii. Notwithftanding thefe advantages, No. 4.5. and that tNe ifland i» lefs fubjecfl to rain than any of the reft, the inhabitants have little or no commerce, and are confequently poor. This iiland is iikewil* the property of Mr. Macdonald. B A R R A. Barra lies at a fmall diflance from South Uift, and is about fifteen miles in circumference. It is not either fo pleafant or fo fruitful as the preceding; but there is plenty of cod and ling, of a large fize, caught on the coaft. This ifland belongs to a gen- tleman of the name of Mac Neil, Southward of Barra lie feveral fmall iflands, parti- cularly five, which, though they have diftin£l names, are in general called the Bifhop's Iflands. There are likewife innumerable iflands of various flzes, lying round the fix larger which have been defcribed ; molt of them very finall, but fome of them five or fix miles in circumference. Thofe iflands, in point of legal jurifdi£tion, are in the fliire of Invernefs. They are divided into feveral parifhes, in each of which is at leaft one fchool, where the children of the better fort receive a toler- able education. According to computation, the number of inhabitants in all thofe iflands is not more than fifteen thoufand. The common people fpeak the Galic ; and in South Uift and Barra, many of them are papifls, of whom there are none in the other iflands. But even in thofe two, the number of Roman catholics is now much declining. ST. K I L D Ai To tbe weftward lies the famous folitaty ifle Of St. Kilda, or in the language of the country, Hirta. It is two miles long, and one broad j furrounded with fteep rocks, except at the bay on the fouth eaft^ where is an entrance for veflTels. The land rifes high in the middle; and there are feveral fountains of good water on each fide the ifland. It produces oats and barley, the latter of which is accounted the largeft in the Weftern Ifles. The inhabitants, who are about two hundred, are well proportioned and comely. In their manners they are virtuous and fimple ; and know not the ufe of money. Here is a chapel where they aflemble on Sunday, and where the fcripture is read by the proprietor's fteward, who alfo has the pri- vilege of baptizing and manying, uniefs when a mi- nifter is fent thither from Harris. Though protef- tants, they have in the chapel an altar and a crucifix, which have continued there fince the time of popery ( and though they pay no worfhip to the crucifix, yet they fwear decifive oaths, by laying their hands upon it i and take the marriage oath in the fame manner. Their houfes are low, built of ftone, with a ce- ment of dry earth, and covered with turf thatched with ftraw. They make their beds in the walls of their houfes, and lie commonly on ftraw, though they have great plenty of feathers and down. They all live in a little village on the eaft-fide of the ifland; not far from which are the remains of an old fort. 6 T In 538 T H M O D R N [Europe. In this in«nd it the houfe of a druideri, all built of ftone, without any cement. It it of a conic fi- gure, open at the top, and has a fire place in the middle of the floor. It cannot eaflly contain more than nine perf.ins. From the fide or the wall go off three low vaults, feparated from one another by pil- lars, and capable of containing five perfons each. On thit ifland are two others dependent. One of thefe, called Soa, lies about half a mile from the weft fide of St. Kilda, and it about a mile in circum- ference, very high and fteep a') round. The other, called Borera, lies about two miles north of St. Kilda, and is about a mile in circumference, furrounded likewife, in moft placet with a high rock. All thofe three iflands afford good pafiuragc, and abound with fea fowl from March till September. Here it a bird called the fulmar, about the ilze of a moor-hen ; which fubfifts on lifli. When approached by any perfon, i; '-)outs out oil from its beak ; and this the natives ufe not only for their lamps, but as a remedy in rheumatic pains, and other complaints. This ifland is the property of lord Madeod. SKY. Sky or Skie, lies between the coafl of Scotland, and the range of iflands to the wcflward which have been already mentioned. From Point Hunifh in the north-eaft of this ifland, to Loch Tarradon in Rofs, the diflance is feven leagues ; but for the fpace of about fix milts, at the foutheaft end, the breadth of the found is little more than a mile ; and at the ferry it is yet much narrower. This ifland is fup- pofed to be the Eaftern Ebada of Ptolemy. Though the fprings here are commonly backward, the fum- mers are fufficiently warm j but the rain generally fets in about the dog-days, and continues through the autumn. As to their winters, they arc in com- parifon with the continent, remarkably mild, with very little frofl or fnow j but they are often attended witli high northerly winds, and heavy rains. The form of this ifland it very irregular, the fea entering deep into the land on every fide, fo as al- moft to divide it in feveral places. In tlie interior paris, it is generally marfhy, abounding at the fame time with rocks and mountains ; among the latter of which, are feven remarkably high, viz. Quillin, Scornifrey, Bein-Storc, Bein-vore-fcowe, Beinchro, Bcin-nin, and Kaillach. Of thefe Quillon is the highefl J and to its dividing the clouds in their paf- figc, a great part of the wet weather which prevails here is commonly afcribed. The length of this ifland is faid to be forty-four computed miles, and its breadth thirty-fix in fome places ; but in others twenty- fix, and in fome parts hardly two miles. The foil is various in refpe£l of colour, depth, and quality. In feme places it is a thin clay, in others mofs ; but in many parts a rich black mould, lying upon fome lime-done, and extremely fertile. Even the mofs, when manured with fhell fand, of which there is great plenty in all parts of the ifland, produces very good crops. Though the interior part 4 of the ifle be one continued raoor, interfperfed with mountains, rocks, and morafTet, yet all thcfc afford a rough kind of grafs, on which the cattle feed .%nd grow fat. Few rountries are fo well Hocked as this ifland with all kinds of manure i for befides the fea- ware, which is common to all the iflands, they have a very prolific fort of fea fand, diflin£l f(vm the fhell fand before mentioned ; exoluftve of fine marie, which, though well k, wn, is very little ufed. Here is alfo great variety of Hne earths, of different colours, fofr, un£iuous, and free from any kind of grit i potters earth, fullers earth, a kind of white earth which has been miflaken for chalk ; free-Aone, lime-Aone, white and black marble, agate, and cryflal. Upon the rocks are found fome dying moffes, and talc as fine as that of Venice. In fome places there are promifing appearances of filver ore ) and cakes of iron are frequently difcovered among the peat aflies. Coal has been found in different parts of the ifland ; but having plenty of peat and turf, which are more eaflly procured, the inhabitants make little ufe of it. The country was formerly overgrown with fir- trees, of which few if any are now left j but there are ilill fome woods, and fcvcral coppices in different parts of the ifland.. The natives grow confiderable quantities of barley and oats, the latter of which is by much the bell. They have alfo hemp and flax } with potatoes, peas, beans, and all kinds of garden fluff. This ifland is remarkably well watered, having innumerable fprings, fome of which are mineral and medicinal, and all of them limpid and whoiefumc. Rivulets and rills of different fizes run down from the mountains ; and befides feveral kinds of frefh fifh, there are about thirty of thofe that abound in falmon. Here are likewife feveral frefh-water lakes, and among thefe one of a confiderable fize, in which is an ifland, with a chapel dedicated to St. Columba, In feveral of thefe lakes there are trout, eels, and pikes ; and in fome are mufcles that yield pcurls. Many falt-water lakes, which are numerous on each fide of the ifland, abound with herrings in the feafon ; and all of them with white and fhclU fifh of different .y- '. In a few of the largefl there are iflands which fcrve for paffurage, and afford fficher fo.' fea fowl. Tame fowls of all kinds arc here in great plenty { as are likewife wild and water fowl. The blacic cattle are fmall, but, when well fed, afford excellent beef. The horfes likewife are fmall, but lively and hardy, going through all forts of labour, upon food that cofts their owner« little or nothing. The ifland affords fheep, hogs, deer, goats, and rabbits, but no hares. There is however, a number of foxes, with feals, otters, weazles, and two or three furts of vipers, the bite of fome of which is faid to be mortal. The inhabitants, though generally not very tall, are well made, (lout and a£live ; and they dwell for the moil part in fcattered villages, as conveniency and the fituation invite. Though they are not un. acquainted, with the improvements in hufbandry, the quantity lOPB. kftone. Scotland.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 539 quantity of corn which they raife is dirproporlloned to the confumption of the inhabitants, the former being computed at nine thotifand bolls in tolerable feafons, and the number of the latter at thirteen thou- fand. They make woollen and linen cloth for their own ufe, and a little for fale. Till lately, the linen was always woven by their women, the occupation of a weaver being thought a difgracc to the other fex. They cure feme fifli for fale, but not a great quantity. Kelp is a great article of their trade, felling from three pounds ten, to five pounds a tun ; and they liicewife burn a confiderable quantity of fern aflies. They tranfport moft of their commodities in their own little boats, and might extend their com- merce much farther, if their circumftances would al- low them to build larger vcflcls. The commerce of the ifle of Sky is aimod entirety confined to two places. One of thefc is Portry, on the eaft-fide of the ifland ; where the Loch of the fame name affording a commodious harbour, and the place lying in the middle of the country, two fairs are annually held, one about the beginning of June, and the other in the beginning of September, in which are fold cattle, cheefe, butter, iifh, and other com- modities. The other place of grcattft refort is at Dunwegan, on the weft-fide of the ifland, where the bay or loch called Faillort affords a tolerable harbour. The purchafers, at their return from thefe fairs, fwim the horfes and cows acrofs the ferry to the main land. In this ifland many ancient monuments are flill extant; fuch as altars, (tones of immenfe height, and circular temples, ereded in the time of the druids ; befldcs fmall houfes underground, and a kind of cells in remote places, which were the retreat of hermits in later ages. Here is alfo a confiderable number of watch towers ; with heaps of ftones, fuppofed to be the fepulchral monuments of the Danes, who once were mafters of the ifland. Befides thefe there are many natural curiofitics, among which are caves of a prodigious extent. This ifland lies in the {hire of Invernefs, and is divided into feven parifhes, in each of which is a fchool, exclufive of three charity-fchools in different parts of the- ifland. The inhabitants are in general proteftants, and the common fort fpeak only Galic or Erfc, but perfons of better condition underftand and fpeak Englifll, The lands are divided chiefly be- tween three proprietors, who are lord Macdonald, lord Maclcod, and the repiefcntative of the family of Mackinnon. Contiguous to Sky are many fmaller iflands, with a great number of iflets or holms, that are dependent upon it. To the north-eaft and north-weft of Tiotternefs, which is its northcin extremity, are eight or more fmall iflands, wh'ch, from the ruins of chapels that are in them, appear to have been in- habited in former times. To the fouth lie five iflands, viz. Canna, or Cannay, Rum, Kgg, Muck, and Aich. The firft of thefe, though not the largeft, is by much the noft valuable. It is a flat ifland, about tlircL- miles long, and upwards of a mile broad, well watered, the foil remarkably rich, and producing plenty of corn and grafs. At the eaft end of it there is a fafe and capacious harbour, capable of contain- ing a hundred and fifty. fail of fhlps ; and near it are two banks abounding with large cod ) but nutwith- ftanding thefe advantages, the iflanders have neither trade nor manufaAures j and being able to piy their rent with their black cattle, give themftlves very lit- tle trouble about Tifliing. It contains about three hundred inhabitants, and is the property of Mr. Mac- donald of Clanronald. Rum is a larger ifland, of a circular form, and near twelve miles in diameter j but the face of it is rugged and mountainous, the foil wet and marfliy. It produces only grafs ; and the black cattle, (heep, and goats are of an inferior kind. This is the pro- perty of Mr. Maclean of Collej'and cntains be- tween two and three hundred inhabitants, who live in great poverty. Egg and Muck are not either of them quite fo large as Canna, but are as fertile, and their climate is both fcealthy and pleafant. The ifland of Aich it the leaft confiderable of them all. There iflands look always frelh and verdant, but, except Rum, they contain not fo much as a bufli ; and the inhabitants are of opinion that no trees will grow in them. In this, however, they are probably miftakcn 5 for in Soa Veretil, an ifland of much the fame fiie, and lying between them and Sky, the wood is fo plentiful as to cover one half of the ifland. On the eaft fide of Sky there are likewife five iflands, viz. Pabay, Scalpa, Raafa, Fladda, and Rona. Pabay is a flat round ifland, about a mile in dia- meter, now ufed only for pafture; but it has forich a foil, that it might be rendered entirely arable. Its only inhabitants are a cowherd and his family. Scalpa is three miles long and one broad, rifing gradually on all fides from the fliore, but not to a great height. Along the fea-fide there is fome arable ground j and the other part affords pafture for black cattle. Raafa is nine miles long and three broad, di- vided into arable and pafture ground, and is the property of Mr. Macleod, who has a handfomc feat upon it. The ifland of Fladda is only a mile in circum- ference. Rona the moft northerly of this group, is about three miles long, and half a mile broad. It contains very little arable land, and is the property of the gentleman laft mentioned. The number of inhabi- tants in thefe five iflands is computed to be about fix hundred. M U L. Proceeding fouthward we reach the ifland of Mull, fituated on the coaft of Argylefliire, and fuppofed to be the Malcos of Ptolemy. It is twenty-four miles in length, and near as much in breadth ; very rough and mountainous, interfefled by the fea un all fides, particularly the weft, where are two large bays which penetrate the land to a great extent. From I s+<* H M O D R N [ Europe, yrom the beginning of April to the end of May, here it generally fair weather, but attended with cold northerly windi. From that time to the middle of July, the weather is pretty watm, and in moft feafons tolerably dry ; but thence to the end of OAober, the rains are almoft incefTant. During the winter, wind and rain prevail more than froft or (now, either of which feldom happens i and when they do, they are not fevere or of long continuance. The foil of this ifland is for the moft part very indifTerent. In the fouth-weft corner, which Is flylcd Kofs or Rofy, the ground is plain, low, and tulcra- kly fertile, as lilcewife is the north-eaft part, which is called Morinifli ; but the reft is in general cold, wet, and barren. The interior part of the ifland is Covered with mountains, fome of which, particu- larly Bainne Mere, are fteep and of great height. There are fome woods and many coppices yet remain- ing. The grafs is in general but indifferent ; and black cattle can find little or no fubfidence on the hills in winter. Thofe mountains, however, are not totally ufelefs, as they yield immenfe qualities of peat and turf, which fupply the inhabitants with fuel. Oats and barley grow here, but neither of them is reckoned excellent in its kind. The ifland is for the moft part exceedingly well watered with fine fprings, fome of which are medi- cinal ; and many rivulets run from the mountains on all lidef. There are fome frefh water lochs of confiderable extent, which abound in trout, eel, and other fifh ; and in fome of the rivers there are falmon as well as pearl mufcles. Bloody Bay affords a harbour for fmall veflels, which fonietinies go to Loch Buy in the herring fea- fon. The bay behind the caftle of Dowart is alfo frequented by fmall veflels. But Toubir-Mary-Bay, whieh is coveted by a fmall ifland called Calve, is a very good port, in which a large fliip of the Spanifti armada was bluwn up in i j88. There is great plenty of tame fowl of all forts about every habitation in the ifland. The moun- tains abound with game; and the lochs furniih a prodigious variety of water-fowl. Here are great numbers of black cattle, of a fmall fize, but aflbrd- ing excellent beef. Sheep and goats are alfo nume- rous i and there are many deer in the hills and wci ids, which are alfo much infefled with foxes. The hoifcs are of a fmallcr fize, but are highly efteemed ; and there is an annual fair in the month of Auguft, in which confiderable numbers are fold. Heri'ngs come frequently into the bays, which likewife afl^ord j>reat plenty oi white and fhell iifli of all kinJ.. Mnny feais and otters are found among the rocky iflands in the large bays ; and the fea-v/are not only fupplics plenty of manure for the lands, but there is .'ike- wife a great quantity annually made into kelp. The cadle of Dowart, which ftands on a rock, about the middle of the eafl-coad of the ifland, re- mains ftill a kind of garrifon. The caftle of Ai".', farther in the country, is become a heap of rui.>s ; and that of May, at the end of Loch Bay is now a place of no confequcnce. There are fome remajns of little Danilh forts, but nothing that defervei the name of a town, in all this large ifland. The inha- bitants, who rcfcmble ihofe of the other iflands, in language and cuftoms, live in fcatlered hamlets, and have among them no appearance of improvements, except a few inclofures. They have no manufac- tures but thofe of coaife cloth and linen for their own confumption ; nor any fiiheries of confequence, though for thefc their fituation is fo commodious. The principal proprietor is the duke of Argyle, but there are alfo many others. Here are only three pariflies, in each of which is a church. There is likewife a chapel, and a fchool where forty or fifty children ate taught, at the expence of the fociety for propagating Chriftian knowledge in the Highlands. The inhabitants are proteftants, and computed tu be about live tboufand j but from the vefligei of many churches, the ifland appears to have been fin- mcrly much more populous. N A, Jon»', or Jeofum Kill, is feparated from the weftern extremit' of Mull by a ftrait fcarce half a mile over. This cel<;brated ifland is about two milts long, and a little riore than half a mile broad. Though ly- ing fo n.-ar Mull, the climate is warmer, and much lefs futijefl to rain. On the borders of the fea the foil is rich and fertile, producing excellent oats, barley, and flax ; the other part, which is rocky, abounds with fine grafs, and feeds, in proportion to its extent, a great number of cattle. It is well- watered, exceedingly pleafant, and contains about a hundred and fifty inhabitants. This ifland was given in the flxth century to St. Columba, who created here a monaftery, in which (he was interred. In fucceeding times, a nunnery, and feveral chapels were built here ; and it was alfo famous for a library, in which were depofited the archives and hiflories of Scotland, with many other curious manufcripts now loft. But the circumftance for which it is moft celebrated, is its having been the burying place, not only of the kings of Scotland, but of Ireland, Norway, and the Ifles ; and like- wife of other diftinguifhed perfons of both fexes in the weflern parts of Scotland, and in the iflands. Many ruins of buildings yet remain, that evince the ancient fplendor of this ifland, which was once the refort of vifltors, frt>m all the northern nations of Europe. Round this ifland are feveral of a fmaller (ize, which furni(h pafture for cattle, and near the coafls of which great quantities of cod, ling, and other (ilh might be taken. S T A F F A. Gu (he weft coaft of Mull likewife lies the fmall ifland of Staffa, about a mile in length, and half a mile in breadth This ifland is celebrated for the laturil pillars that range in a magnificent manner along many parts of the coaft, particularly on the fouth- SCOTLANI Argyle, 'UROPE, Scotland.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. ■m fouth-weil fide. They are mofily of great length, and lie in various dire£lions { but in one place, called the Cave of Fingal, they are about fifty-foot high, and proportionably thick, difpofed in the form of colonnades, according to the direction of the fhore. C O L. Col 19 about thirteen miles long, and three broad, modly covered with heath, interfperfed with fpots of grafs and corn. The quadrupeds in this ifland are horfes, cows, flieep, and goats ; but here are nei- ther deer, hares, nor rabbits. There are feveral lochs. Tome of which afford trout and eels Both ends of the ifland are the property of the duke of Argyle, but the middle belongs to Mr. Mac Lean. T Y R - I T Y. Near Col lies the ifland of Tyr-Ity, eight miles long and three broad. It abounds with corn, cattle, fifli, and fowl. Here i!> : frefli water lake, with an ifland and an old caftle in it. Tyr-Ity formerly be- longed to the family of Mac Lean, but is now the property of the duke of Argyle. There is in the ifland one church, called Sorabi, of which the dean of the Ifles was minifler. COLONSAY. Colonfay is above twelve miles long, and three broad, full of rocky hills, running traiifverfely, in- termixed with meandring valleys, all affording ex- cellent pafturage, The foil produces oats, beans, and potatoes ; and a confiderable quantity of kelp is nere annually made. O R A N S A Y. Oranfay, which is feparated from the preceding by a narrow found, is three miles long ; the fouth part low and fandy, but the reft high and rocky. This idand yields the fame commodities as the laft mentioned ; and here are the ruins of an ancient monaftcry, founded, as fome fuppofe, by Columba, but more proliably by one of the lords of the Ifles, who eftablifhed here a priory of regular canons of Auguftine, dependent on the abbey of Holy. rood at Edinburgh. The church is fifty-nine foot by eigliteen j and contains many tombs of the ancient iflanders. I L A Y. To the fouthward of thefe lies Hay, about twenty- eight miles long, of a fquarc form, but deeply in- dented on the fouth by the great bay of Loch-anidaal, The face of the ifland is hilly, though not high, and much of it is covered with heath ; but in fome parts the land is of good quality. Should the inhabitants turn their attention to agriculture, the ifland might be greatly improved ; for befidcs fea-wreck, it af- fords coral, (hell fand, rock and pit marie, ..id great quantities of linieitone. I'he chief produce, how- ever, is only flax, and fome corn, of :he latter of No, 4S. which fo little is cultivated, that the inhabitants an- nually import a thoufand pounds worth of meal. From the number of cattle bred hen.-, the ifl.ind is frequently fo overftocked, that many of them die in the fpring for want of fodder. Here are weazles, otters, hares, eagles, falcons, black and red game, with feveral kinds of fifli j and vipers fwarm in the heath. The people of this ifland are faid to be ex- tremely fuperftitious with refpeft to the power of fafcination. Here are feveral mines of lead, much mixed with copper, which appear to have been wrought in former times, and have again been opened of late years. B E R N E R A. Bernera '.s about five miles in circumference, and has in it a noble wood of yew, with a frefh water lake, where many land and fea fowl refort. This ifland was a fan£luary in popifli times. L I S M O R E. Lifmore is about nine miles long, and one and a half broad, and is extremely fertile in oats and bear. Here is a church of modern but mean building; and in the church-yard are two or three old tombs, with the highland broad fword engraved on them. Here is alfo a remarkable tomb confifting of nothing more than a thick log of oak. On a rock are cut the radii of a dial, but the index is loft. JURA. Jura is reckoned about twenty-four miles long, and in moft place: fevcn broad. It is the mcft rugged of all the Hebrides, the interior parts confifting chieflyof vaft naked mountains, incapable of cultivation. Some of thefe rife to a great height, particularly two which are diftinguifhed by the name of the Paps of Jura. The eaft coaft of the ifland, through its whole extent, is remarkably plain and fertile, as are like. wife feveral fpots in other places, producing barley, oats, rye, hemp, and flax, in confiderable quan- tities. This ifland is remarkably well watered with fine fprings j and here are alfo fome frefli-water lochs, which abound in trout, pike, ?ch, and otiicr forts of fifli, befides vaft quantities of water fowl. No lefs than ten beautiful rivers run from the mountains towards the eaft fide of the ifland, four or five of which are well ftored with faimon and other fine fiib. Here is great plenty of all forts of tame fowl i and the hills abound more with black game than any other of the iflands ; producing likewife a confider- able numbci of deer, for which this ifland was for- merly famous. Bhck cattle, horfes, flieep, goats, and rabbits, are in ^reat number ; but heie are nei- ther hares nor foxes. The fea-coaft abounds with all forts of white and fliell fifli ; and the barren rocky iflands at a little diftance afford plenty of feals, as well as prodigious quantities of fea ware. The inhabitants ate in general a ftout, well pro* portioned, and a£live people ; ot a brown or rather dark complexion, refembling the people in the foachern 6 U countries 54* H M O D E I. N [Europe. 8C0TLAN1 countriei of Europe. They live In fmull hamlets, difperfed for the moft part along the e«ft-ftJi of the iHand. The number of perfuns amounts to about twelve hundred. In general their language is Eife, but .the better fort can alfo fpealt £ngli(h. This ifland lies in the (hire of Argyle, and part of it is the propcity o the dulce, GIGA I A. The next remarkable ifland is Gigaia, fix miles in Imgth, -nd a mile and a half in breadth, with a foil well adapted both for arable and pafture ground. Upon the ftones here grows corkir, which dyes a crimfon colour ; and croftil, "hich dyes a philamort. The proprietors of th:« 'fland are the Mac Neils. Cary is fituatcd a very little fouth of the preceding, and is about a mile in compafs, affording good paf- turagc, and abounding with rabbits. This iflanJ belongs to the family of Macalefter. A R R AN. Arran lies in the mouth of the Frith of Clyde, at the diflance of a few leagues from thi- continent. It is of an oval fhape, and almoft every where rough and mountainous. The cock of Arran, which is to- wards the northern extremity, is a famous fea-matk; but the highcft mountain (lands in the interior part. The length of this ifland from fouth to north is twenty- four miles, and its greated breadth fourteen, being in many places indented by the fea. At prcfont, only a fmall part near the coaft is improved, but the cul- tivation appears to have been anciently more general. The ifland is well watered wiih fprings, as well as with feveial frefh- water lochs, particularly Loch Vcrfa, out of which runs a fine river. Befides m.nny rivu- lets, here are five confiderable (licams that f>tll into the fea on the weft fide, and an equal number on the eaf}. The produce is the fame as that in the other iflands, only here are no hares nor foxes. The lochs and rivers abound with trout and falmon ) and various forts of fea fifh aic caught upon the cuall in great abundance. The inhabitants live in fcattrred villages over the ifland, and have no other mechanic eiiployments than fuch as are abfolutely nccrfl'ary towards their fubfiUcnce. Befidcs a little coarfe cloth which they fpin and weave for their own ufe, their only manu- failure is kelp, which they fell for about forty and fometimcs fifty fliillings a ton. I'he greateft natural beauty in Arran is the in- comparable harbour of Lamlach, which lies towards the fouth-eaft, covered by an ifland of the fame name, about three quarters of a mile in lenj^th. This ha- ven is a kind of circle nine miles in compafs, fur- rounded by high mountains, and capable of contain- ing five hundred fail of fhips. Its diflinguifhing con- vcnien.y arifes from the difpofition of the ifland at its mouth, which affords a double entrance and nutlet, fo that vefTcli may pafs in almoft my wind. To the north, at the d'ltance of about five leagues, lies the harbour of Loch Ranfa, which it land-locked, and though in other refpefls very commodious, is dry at low water. The bay without, however, is fpa. cious, and in it fixty or feventy fhips may anchor with great fafeiy. Formerly there were feveral churches in this ifland, but at pttf-nt only two paiifties, which are thofe of Kilbride and Kilmoray. There is alfo a cliapcl and catechifl at Loch Ranfa, endowed by one of the duchelTes of Hamilton with twenty-five pounds a year. Here ate many remains of druidical fuperflitiun, which evince its having been inhabited in very early times i as are alfo many caves remarkable for their fize and fituation ; beftdes the remains of fome an- cient fortrefTes. The caftle of Broadwic, which be- longs to the duke of Hamilton, is ftill a large edi- fice, and muft anciently have been both flrong ai; * fumptuous. The number of inhabitants is computed at about five thoufand. On the weft fide of the ifland they generally fpcak £ife, and on the eaft fide Englifli. The duke of Hamilton is proprietor of the greater part of Ar.-n : and, with others of the neighbouring iflands, it lies in the fliire of Bute. B U E. The ifle of Bute is I'ltuated at thr entrance of the Frith of Clyde, having the m.^in land of the fhire of Air at the diftance of fix miles on the cart. Its length from north to fouth is eighteen miles, and the broadeft part about five ; but it i.i in many places na.'rower, being indented on both fides by largi bays of the fea. The face of the country is rather hill/ than mountainous, except in the north-eaft purt j and large tra£ls of level and fruitful ground are in- terfperfcd between the hills through almoft every part of the ifland. Along the (hore, and in the valleyi the foil is generally a deep flrong nioulJ, extrcmoljr fcnllt', and wdl adapted lor wheat, bailey, oats, and flax, though at prefent the inhabitants grow only oats and bear of which they commonly export about four thoufand quarters annually. Towards the north end of the ifland is a quarry of coarfe flate ; and a vein of coal has been found, which, however, dip- ping very deep, is not thought worth the expenc- of working. Here is plenty of free-ftone, and P.one of a red colour, of which there are many ancient build- ings. A liirge mountain of lime-ftoi\e hangs over 'he fea. Here were anciently many wosds, feveral of v.'hich, fome of oak, are yet remainini;. The ifland is well watered with fprings and rU vulcts s and there are fix or eight frefh -water lochs, among which four have rivers running ou' of them ; all abounding in pike, perch, and fine laige trout. Here are wild, tame, and water fowl of moll forts, and in great plenty) and the hills afford deer, with the beautiful creature railed the roe- buck. I'he horlni and black cattle are fmall, occafioned by their l.reed- ing too great numbers. The Iheep are excelleiili and Scotland.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 543 and the quantity o( fwine conflderable. The coads ■bound with difFcrent forts of fea fifh, particularly herring. Bute, according to .incient writeri, was the firft ifland poflefled by the Scott, under the command of Renda, or, as he is itamed by others, Rothfay, -^ho is faid to have built the town and fort of that name : this, though a royal borough, and giving, fince the reign of Robert 111. the title of duke to the heir-ap- parent of the crown, is an iiiconfldcrable place, con- taining about fix or fevcn hundred inhabitants. It flands, i.owever, upon a very hne bay, which is ca- pable of containing a fleet of large fhips ; ahd the entrance and quay have been lately much imprcved by the alTiftance of the earl of Bute, the proprietor. The chief fupport of the inhabitants is the hcrring-filhery, in which they employ from a hundred and fixty to two hundred boats. They fell the fifh daily, as they take them, to the attending tradcis from Glafgow, Greenock, and other places. There arc in the ifland two ferries, one from Roth- fay to Greenock, which is about five leagues up the Clyde } and the other from Mount Stewart to Larges, the ne.-reft port in the (hire of Air. The boats go 'cgularly every week, the former carrying corn, cattle, and other commodities, for the Greejiock market, and the latter chiifly paflengers. Mod of the inhabitants fpeak the Engliih language, which may be confidered at their mother-tongue, though many of them un- derftand, and fomc likcwife can fpeak Erfe, which is the common dialed of the ordinary people in the othtr wcflcrii iflands. Hern are fcvcral old fortreffes, or places anciently built for defence, fuch as Dun Ov/1, or Dun Ouil, and Dun Alliii, on the weft fide j and on the eaft fide of the ifland, a little north froiTi Rothfay, is an old caflle, three ftories high, which fcems to have been once a (lately building, and a great fecurity to the place. In former times there were feveral churches in this ifland, but at prefent only two pariihes, the in- habi(:i)its of *hith, conjuniJtIy, are computed at fix or (i-ven ihou(aiid. The principal proprietor is the earl of Bute, btfiilcs whom two gentlemen have houfes and cflates in the ifland. AHjacctit to Bute are two fmall iflands, called (jreat and Little Cumbrays, which are the property of the earl of Glafgo*', C H A P. IX. ' Of tht Scots,— Religion.— Learning.— Conjlitution. THE Scots, in general, are an open, good-na- tured, hofpitable, bravf, and honeft people, diffciing little, at prefent, in their manners and cuf- tdiiis from the Englifli, whom they are alfo faft ap- pfnacbill^ 8>fii '" 'he refinement of their language : lllljy ^f«, lii/Wcver, di(iingui(hcd iiy the cftablilhcd (eliglud ai the umMl^t l> well as by fomc particulars ill ilieit political conllilutiun. h ii |«(>«iiill^ xdmiUed by ancient wilitre, that Chriflianity was firfV taught by fonie of the difciplel of St, John the a;jo(llc, who fled thither to avoid the perfecution oi the Roman emperor. It was, how- ever, not publi;ly profeflcd, till the beginning of the third century, when, according to the Scotch hifloii- ans, Donal'/ I. and his queen, with feveral of this nobles, wer: folcmnly baptized. The progrcfs it had made was foon afterwards confirmed by emigrations from South Britain, during the perfecutions of Au- relius and Diocleflan, when it became the general re- ligion of the country, under the dirciilion of a fociety of learned and pious men, named Culdees, whofc principal feat was in St. Andrew's. Chridianily, thus planted, appears to have flou- rilhed in its native fimplicity, till the arrival of Pal- ladius, who being fent thither in the fifth century by the bi/hop of Rome, found means to introduce the modes and ceremonies of the Romifh church. The dependen:e of the Scots, however, upon the papal fee, remained always more weak than that of any other nation ; and notwithftanding the opprcflioa exercifed by the Romi(h clergy, the Culdees conti- nued to be a diftinifl order in the kingdom, fo latts as the fourteenth cer tury. The reformation began in Scotland in the time of James V. during whofe reign, as well as that of his daughter Mary, though both catholics, it made great progrefs, and was at length completed, through the preaching of John Knox, who had embraced the docSrine of Calvin. 'I'hofe who laboured in eAabiifh^ ing the new doiSlrinc naturally imagined, that upo.1 the abolition of the Romifh religion, they (hould fuc- ceed to the revenues of its clergy ; and the nobles, who had already deftined thofe pofleflions to them- felves, did not difcouragc this notion : but no fooner was the revolution in the church efFefted, than the latter monopolized all the church-livings, and (hame- fully left the reformed clergy in a ftate of almoft total want, till their increafing importance in the nation procured them from the legiflature a decent main* tenance. The Scotch clergy are generally acknowledged td be the moft decent and confiflent in their condudt of any of their order. Their livings are from forty, to a hundred and fifty pounds a year, with a fuitable houfe, and about fix acres of land annexed. The church allows no curate, except in cafe of ficknefs or ag% when one is appointed under the title of helper. The widows and children of thofe who die in poor circumftances, are provided for out of a fund efta- blifhed by two vt&3 in the laft reign. The church of Scotland is modelled principally after the CalviniAical plan eftablilhed at Geneva } and its chief di(lin£iion is an equality of all the prefliyter" in refpeft of ecclefiaftical rank. They drefs without clerical robes, but fomc of them appear in the pulpit in gowns and bands. They make no ufe of fet forms of woi'fliip, but are not prohibited that of the Lord's prayer. The loweft ecclefiaftical judicatory in Scotland is the kirk-fefTiun, tlie authority of which is confined to its own pBri(h. It confifts of the minifter and elders. 544 THE MODERN [Europe. the Utter of whom, generally amoiiniiiig to eight ori York, iifterwards James V'll. aiiJ 11. rcfufcd to re- ten, arc chofcii by the former from among the moll ccgniie king William's title. During the time of intelligent and regular of his pariniioncrs. TIk- iflict I'pilriip.tcy, Scotland contained two archbilhcipricks, St. of an elder is neatly the fame wiih that of a church warden in England, having the (upcrintcnJancy ol the poor, and the management of the parochial af fairs. They alfo affift the minillcr in fcveral of \u: clerical duties, particularly in caicchjling, vifiting the fick, and at the communion table. One of them is called the ruling elder, who is generally a perfon Andrew's and Glafgow, and twelve bifliopricks, vvhiL-h were tholi; of Edmburgli, Dumblain, Dunkeld, Hre- chin, Aberdeen, iVlurriiy, RoCs, Caithiiefj, Oikiiey, CSallow.iy, Argyle, and ihi IHes. Ever fince the revival of learning, the Scots h;ive been peculiarly diilinguifhcd for their improvimrnts in fciencc, and their fuccefaful exertions of genius in al- of the (irfl quality and intereft in the parifh : this of- i muft every fpecies of polite literature. Jhe name of fice entitles him to a feat in the higher cctltfialhcil Napier of Marchiflon will be celebrated to the lateft judicrttories, Superior to the kirk-feffions are the prefliytcries, ol which i.ere .'c in Scotland fixty-nine. Thefc con- fift (■■ >e minifters of feveral parifhcs, with one riil'fijf elder, choftn half-yearly out of the refpeclive kirk /Vi' ''s, and they meet in the head-town of the J:- . 1 . ^heir jurifdidion is confined to the parities t'iytt conftil ''? prefbytcry, within which they take ages for the difcovery of the logarithms ; while thofe of Gregory, Maclaurin, Simpfon, and Stewart, will alfo be held in high edeem, for the extraordinary abilities with which they have cultiv.aed the abftruCcft parts of mathematical fciencc. In hiftory, philofophy, and medicine, the character of the Scotch nation is almofl unrivalled j and the reputation of Thomfon rlone may elfablifli its claim to the moft diftinguilhcd cognizance oi ai) .-cclcfiaftical afiairs. A chief part of l honours in poetry. The government of Scotland, by its original con- ftituiion, was one of the freeft in Europe. Its par- their bufinefs is the ordination of candidates for liv- ings. In the difcharge of this office they are ex- tremely regular and folcmn. The patron of a living is bound to nominate, or prefcnt, in fix months after a vacancy, otherwife the prefbytery fills the piace jure devoluto ; but this privilege docs not hold in royal burghs. Next to thcfc arc fifteen provincial fynods, com- pofed of a number of the adjacent prefbytcries, over which they have a power, liamcnt anciently confiftcd of all who held any land of the crown by the tenure of military fcrvice. This afTembly was invefled with fupreme power in every thing that related to the government, and even enjoyed the prerogative of rcftraiiiing grants which had been made by the crown. The king had no negative voice in its refolutions ; and fo bounded w:is his authority, that he could not declare war, make peace, or con- The highcft ecclefiaftical judicatory is the general | elude any other public bufinefs of importance, with- alTcmbly, confiftiiig of deputies from the feveral pref- byteries in the kingdom. A prefbytery containing under twelve miiiilkrs, fends two minifters, and one ruling elder j if it contains between twelve and eigh- teen members, it fends three, and one ruling elder ; if between eighteen and twenty four, it fends four ininifters, and two ruling elders } but if the picfby- tery has twenty-four members, it fends five minillers, and two ruling elders. Every royal burgh fends one out the concurrence of parliament. The c.nflitutioa was in reality rather ariflocratical than monarchical, and the tranquility of the nation was frequently dif- turbed by the ambition of the chieftains and great landholders. In checking which evil, the kings, in in later times, were aflifted by the clergy, whofe re- venues were exceeding great, and who always enter- tained a jealoufy of the powerful nobles. For this purpofc, a feleyal da- main i and the flewardi had much the fame power in them, as the (heri(F had in his county. Courts of regality were held by virtue of a royil jurifJiftion vefted in the lord, with particular immu- nities and privileges ; but thefe were reckoned of To dangerous tendency, that all the Scotch regalitiea are now diflblved by an a£l of parliament. Baron courts belong to every perfon who holds B barony of the king. In civil matters they extend to caufes not exceeding forty (hillings fterling ; and in criminal cafes to petty a£)ions of afTault and bat- tery i but the j>uni(hment is reftri£ied to twenty (hil- lings, or fetting the delinquent in the ftocks three hours, in the day-time, Thefe courts Were formerly vefted with the power of life and death, but they are now deprived of this jurifdiAion. The courts of commiflai ' s in Scotland anfwer to thofe of the Englifh diocelan chancellors, and the higheft of them is kept at Edinburgh, It confifts of four judges, before whom a£iion» are pleaded con- 6 X cerning 5i« H B M ctrning Riitttfi rclttiv* lo wilU and itOimtnU i the ri|li< of p«lron*ge to eccIefuftiMl b«n«ftcei, tithci, divorctt, ind oiher cauftt of (hit nature i but in •laioA all other parti of the kingdom, there fiti only •ne judge in thofo courti. At prefent, juftice* of the peace in Scotland cxer. cife nearly the fame power ai ihofe in England i but in former timet their authority wai greatly cramped by the power of the feudal lordi, who obtained an t& of parliament, that the jufticei were not to take cogniaance of lioti till lifleon dayi after the faa. Coroncri were inflituted in Scotland fo early at the reign of Malcolm II. They were em- powered to take cognisance of all breachei of the peace, and likewife to regifler dcpofitioni, ai well as the verdiAi of jurori. Thit office, D E R N [Europe. however, it at prcbnt much difufed in the country. The royal borougl)i of Scotland fend each a dele, gale annually to Edinburgh, where thry hold a cun- vention to deliberate upon the common good of the whole. Their poweri are of confideuble extent) and before the Union they made U'wi rcUiive to (hipping, and feveral manurainurci,ai well ai brinclica of trade. The trade between Scotland and the Nr. therlandi ii Dill fuhjc£l lu their u-^ulation. I'hcir conl'ervator in nominatcJ by tlic cruwn ( but the ciiii« veniion reguUtci bia power, appiovci hii dcputici, and appoint! hit falary. According to the articlei of the Union, the Scoti peeri are reprcfented in the Uiitifli parliament by fixteen noblemen, choftn out of their own body i and the commons by forty- five members. :!>!iC F : '^ C H A p. I. Of tpf/iiualhn, previiitti, dimatf, fail, ii£i, /trf/ls, rivirtt R E mcuntaini, kits, N D. I IRELAND is fituated in the Atlantic ocean, between fix and ten degreri of weft longitude, and between fifty-one and fifty-fix degrees of north latitude. It is bounded on the eaft by St. George's channel, which divides it from Great Britain } and on all other fides by the Atlantic. It ii diftant from Holy-head, in North-Wales, fifty miles, and from Oalloway in Scotland, fifteen miles ; extending in jength from fouth to north two hundred and eighty- five miles, and in breadth a hundred and fixty. It is divided into four large provinces, viz, Munfter, Leinfter, Uldcr, and Connaught. The province of Munfter comprehends the fouth part of Ireland, and includes the following counties, viz. Corke, Kerry, Lime/ick, Waterford, and Tip- perary. The province of Leiniler contains the midland eaftcrn parts, and is divided into the fubfequent counties, vix. Wexford, Carlow, Kilkenny, Queen's County, Wicklow, Dublin, Kildare, King's County, Weft-Mcath, Eafl-Meath, L.owth, and Longford. The province of Ulftcr comprifes the northern part of the kingdom, and is diftinguifhed into the following counties, viz. Cavan, Monaghan, Ar- mach, Down, Antrim, Londonderry, Tyrone, Do- negal, and Fermanagh. The province of Connaught includes the midland weftcrn parts, in which lie the fubfequent counties, viz, Leitrim, Siigo, Mayo, Rofcommon, Galway, :ind Clare. . The climate of Ireland difFeri little from that of England, and the air is generally falubriout, except in the uncultivated parts, where unwhoH'ome fogs ate very prevalent. The foil, when properly cultivated, is for tl:e moft part very fruitful, notwithftanding its remark- able rockinefa. From ftone being fo general, a judi- cious obl'crver has intimated an opinion, that the whole ifland is one vaft rock of different ftrata and kinds, rifingout of the fea. Palluragc, arable, and meadow ground abound in the kingdom ; but, till of late years, tillage was not fufficiently encouraged. It has been remarked, that the Iri(h language it mote happy in diftinguilhing the fize of mountains than perhaps any other, A knock fignifies a low hill, unconnc£ied with any other eminence ; a Aleve de- notes a craggy high mountain, gradually afcending, and continued in feveral ridges ; a bein or bin ex- preflcs a mountain of the fird magnitude, ending in a fharp or abrupt precipice. The lad arc often fccn and compounded together in one and the fame range. Compared with other countries, however, Ireland is far from being mountainous. The principal moun- tains are thofe of Mangerton, and the Reeks in Kerry ; the Galtics in Cork ; thofe of Mournc ia Down ; Crow Patrick and Ncphin in Mayo. Ireland contains a vad number of lakes, or, as they were formerly called, loughs, particularly in the provinces of Ulftcr and Connaught. Many of them produce large quantities of filh ; and the great lake Neagh, between the counties of Antrim, Down, and Armagh, is remarkable for its petrifying quality. The face of the country is in many places over- fpread with bogs, fomc of which are of vaft extent,. They are of two forts, black and red. The former is generally very good. It is folid almoft to the furo face, yields much alhes in burning, and is for the iKKtANU.J GENERAL TRAVELLER. 55} moft pirt iniprovcibit, though at i great expenet, Tht litter hii ufually » rcdilifti futiHiiiice five or Ax foot deep, which holds water like a fpunje, yieldi no alhci in burning, and It fiippofcd to b« incapable of cultivation. Many ihtorie.i have been invented to arcount for Ihofc phenomuna in the natural hiltory of ihii coun- try. It ii obrervable that in thole bogi, varioui roott of trees, fome of them of a great fiec, are ge- nerally found, and ufually at the boitom, the common kinJt being oak, tir, and yew. The roots of thofc tr«ci are fait in the i-arth. Some of the trcei feem to be broken off, othrrs have the appoarance of being cut, but more of them bear the marki o. fire. Un- der fome boga of ronfiderahlc depth are yet to be feen the furrowi of land mice ploughed The black bog ii a fulid weighty rmf's, which cuta almofl like butter, and upon examination appears to rcfemble rotten wood. Under the red bugs i> always a (hatum, not quite To fulid as the former fpecies, but makes as good fuel. Roth kinds of bog are covered with a fpungy vegetable mafs, which is thicker on the fur- face of the black. The fpontaneous growth is mull eommonly heath, with fume bog myrtle, rulhes, and ■ litlk fedgy grafs. The depth of the bogs is vari- ous. Many of tliem have been fathomed to that of fifty foot, and fome are faid to be yet ileeper. They difTer extremely from the bogs in England in the ine- quality of the furface I the Irifh being rarely level, but rifing into hills. The principal forefts ore fituated in Leitifter, the King's and Queen's counties, and thofc of Wexford and CarloM'. Great forefts are alfo in the county of Donegal, the north part of Tyrone, the county of Fermanagh, and the north part of the county of Down, They contain fome good timber : the oak is reckoned equal to that of KngliOi growth. In various parts of the coaft there are fpaclous bays, and commodious havens, and the country is beautified by many fine rivers. The principal of thefeis the Shannon, which ifl'uing from Lough Al- len, :ih the county of Leitrim, fcrves as a boundary between Connaught and the other three provinces ; and after a courfe of a hundred and fifty miles, form- in:; in its prngrefs many beautiful lakes, it falls in- to the Atlantic ocean between Kerry-point and Loop- hrnd, where it is nine miles broad. The navigation of this river is intefriipted by a ridge of rocks fpread- ing quite acrofs it, fuuth of Killaloe ; but this in- convenience, it is faid, might b« remedied by a fhort canal, at the expenc of ten or twelve thoufand pounds ; and communications might alfo be made with other rivers, to the great benefit of the nation The B(iyne rifes in (^een's county, and running northeaft by Trim and Cavtn, falls into the Irifh channel a little below Drogheda. The LifFey lifr: in the county of Wicklow, whence tunning weft in- to Kildare, and then turning north-eaft, it direib its courfe through the county of Dublin, and fa!is into tlic Irifli fea a little below the capital. In th." north part of the kingdom is the river Ban; and in the fouih are the Barrow, the Noer, and the Suir, 8 which after uniting their ((ream below Rofs, fall in- to the channel at Waicrford haven. C H A F. II. * 0/ iht Piivintt nf Munjitr, C O R K E. IN ti)i3 fouthern extremity of Ireland lies the county of Corke, extending eighty milci in length, and fifty in breadth, it it bounded on the Wcif by Ker- ry and the lea, on the no. th by Limerick, and oh the call and fuuth by the ocean. I'he iirfl town we fhall mention is Youghat, which was incorporated by king Kdward IV, in the fecund year of his reign. The church here is a large Cimhic (Iru^ure, the nave being forty-five yards long, and twenty-two broad, adorned on each fide with fix Gothic arches. This town, from fouih to north, is about an Lnglifh mile in length, confilting moflfy of one ftreet, intermixed with old and new houfei. The llrcet, towards the fouth end, is crufTed by a high fquare tower, called the Clock-gate, which di- vides the town into the upper and lower. The town is Atuated oi t." f j of a hill, nn an arm of the Tea, and hae a t'.lirable good harbour. The walls on the well fide extend the whole length of the town, and are flanked wi'h fome old towers. Houfe-rent is here very low, aft'', good provifions cheap j fo that people of a moder.-.ie fortune may lite very comfortably. The entrance of the bay is dangerous to ftrangers, being obflrticted by a bar, whieh cannot be paflisd till half flood. ToMrarttt the it^, the town is defended by a fmall foit or block-houfe, mounted wirli cannon. Near it i* a mole for fhipping and a key { adjacent fo which are the exchange and cullom-houfe. Over the forMitV the town -council mtet, to tranfa^^ the affairs of the corporation. Of late the trade of this port is ver^ tneonfiderable, being moftly confined to vefTels tradhtg to Briflol with woollen yarn. At pre- fent here is a manufa<5iory of earthen ware, which they make tolerably good. The town fends two mem- bers to parliament. Here potatoes were firft in^port- cd into Ireland by Sir Walter Raleigh. The perfon who planted them, imagining that the apple which grows on the ftalk was the part to be ufed, gathered them i but not liking their tafte, neglected the rootf, till the ground being dug to fow fome grain, the po» tatoes were difcovered in it. From the fmall quanti- ty then imported, the country is faid to have been furnifhcd with {fA. In this town is a barrack for two companies of foot; and at the arrays in 1746, here were a thou- fand protelUnts (it to bear arms. Four rtiibf] from Youghal ftands Killeigh, a fmall village, where was a n'lnnery of canonefTes, founded Vy St. Abban, in the nMth century. The river that i;ins by it is remark ib'.' ,'br its ferpentine courfe, and .'or its quality in wiiite.iing cloth. Caftle-martyi is J :ieat fmall town, well watered, and coinmodioully fituated for the linen manufa£iure. It was anciently called Leper's town, as is faid, from a Icper-houfe in the neighbourhood; and there is a tra- 55+ T H li MODERN [Europe. Irela! I tradition of its having been remarkable for a copper manufadtory. At prefent, however, there ia no cop- per ore near thii place, but iron mines almoft every where round it, Weftward of Caftle-martyr Hands Cloyne, an an- cient bilhoprlck, founded in the fixth century by St. Colman, who was the Arft bilhop of this fee. This cathedra), dedicated to its founder, is built in the form of a crofs, and is a decent Gothic building, ftventy foot In length, with a nave about a hundred ind twenty. On each fide are lateral ifles, (befides the crofs ifles) divided by Gothic arches, five on each fide. In this town was aucirntly an abbey of Auguftiae nuns, founded in the fixth century by St. He, who was the it.ft abbefs. Near the church {lands a round tower ninety-two foot high, and ten foot diameter. The door is about thirteen foot from the ground. To the north-weft of the town, is a reputed holy well, dedicated to St. Colman, which is annually vifited by the Iriih on the a4th of Novem- ber. Middleton, fo called from its fituation, midwa ' between Corke and Youghal, is a borough and market - town, pleafanily fituated in the north-eaft angle of Corke harbour. It confifts of one long flreet, rang- ing from the north to the fouih bridges, and is well built. It is governed by a magiftrate, flyled a fove- reign, with two bailiffs, and twelve burgefl'es, who return two members to parliament. Not far from the waterfide is the remains of an ancient building, called the Spittle, fuppofcd to have been a leper-houfe, of which kind there are many in the kingdom. In a garden at Balinacbora, an adja- cent village, is a high fepulcbral mount, one of the Daniflt tumulii Rathcormack is a fmall neat boroygh, about twelve miles from Corke, fituated near the river Bride. It returns two members to parliament ; and here the county feflions are held once a-year. Northward of this town is a range of mountains, the laft of which to the eafl is termed Cairn-Tierna, i. e. the Thane's Heap. On the top of it is a large rude heap of fiones, faid to take its name from the thane or lord of the country, who there held judicial affemblies. It is alfo faid to be the place where the people ele£ted their chiefs, in the times when taniftry prevailed. Corke lies moftly on a marfliy ifland, furrounded by the river Lee, which divides about a mile above the city, and falls into the ocean ten miles below it. One of the branches run on the north Ade of the town, and the other on the fouth, under two hand- fomc new-built bridges, nctween thofe Areams run feveral canals, which, being kinked and quayed in, bring up fhips almoft to every ftrect. Towards the north and fouth the city (lands partly on a rifing ground; it is about three miles long, and near two in breadth. The main (Ircct is very broad, but the o'hcr part is moftly compofed of lanes which interfcft tne former at right angles, and arc fo narrow, that «ne of them, about ten foot wide, is called Broad- lane. The houfes are old, and far from being ele- gant in, their appearance ; but on the quays there are 6 fomc handfome buildings. The city has two gates, the north and the fouth ; near the former of which is an old tower, called bkiddy's Cafile, now convert- ed into a magasir.e for powder. Here are feven churches, three of which are con- fiderablc. I'he cathedral Hands in an area (haded with rows of trees. It is a fpacious flruflute of the Doric order, and is faid to have been founded in the year 630, by St, Finbar, the firft bifhop of this diocefe ; but it was laft rebuilt in the reign of his late majefly. St. Mary Shandon, beyond the north bridge, ilands upon a rifing ground, and is a handfome building, with a high fquare tower, ere£led a few years ago. There is alio another new church within a hundred paces of the fouth gate, and which is .he firll edifice in the city. Befides the churches, there are in Cork eleven mafs-houfes, with four diflenting meeting-houfes, be- longing to prefbyterians, anabaptifts, quakers, and French proteftants. The city is ornamented with feveral charity- fcboolt, alms-houfes, and a neat infirmary. The cuftom-houfc is a handfome brick building, with angles, windows-cafes, and door-frames of (lone. It is furrounded by a good quay, with cranes, and all proper conveniencies for landing goods; The market-place is alfo a handfome new pile, built in the Italian tafle, with a fine open plana j but flanda in an obfcure part. The exchange is fmall in pro- portion to the opulcK'-e of the city, but is a neat building, fuppottcd by febftantia! pillars, and opens to the nortk and weu fides. The county coutt« houfe, where the aiEzes are held, !$ a large (lru£lure, and well ornamented j but obfcurcd by a bad fitua'- tion. It ii (uppofed to ftand partly on iha fpot where was in former times the king's refidence, and is thence flill called the king's old callle. Corke is remarkable for the number of cattle annu- ally flaughtered in it ; and the exportation of beef, pork, butter, hides, tallow, &c. is proportionably great. In 1754, the return of huufes in this city was feven thoufand four hundred and forty^ifive ; and in 1766, it was eight thoufand one hundred and thirteen ; fo that if we fuppofe them to have in. creafed at the fame rate fince, they are now upwards of eight thoufand fix hundred. This ii doubilefs • low ellimate ; for great numbers of the poor are ex- empted from paying h irth-money. The harbour of Corke is large enough to contain the whole navy of Great Britain. The entrance i« free, open and bold, but has at prefent no fortifi- cation to defend it, though the remains of an old one are yet vifibic on the right hand. At the place where this formerly flood, the cape is very high, and the channel is not a hundred yards from the fhore. Dog's-nofe-point, as it is called, is another formidable fituation. When (hips have entered, they anchor ofFa village called Cove, where they are land- locked, and fecured from all diingcr. Here are two iflands called Spike and Hawlebowling, that ferve as bulwarks to proteA vefTels riding at anchor from being damaged by the tide of ebb or floods ofF the land. |[E(;rope. •wo gates, her of which bow convert* |ich are con. fliaded with |of the Doric in the year |this diocere; late majefly, I'idge, ftands ne building, Iw years ago. In a hundred |e firft edifice [Cork eltven 5-houfes, bj- juakers, and ifity-fchools, k building, >r- frames of with crane*, joods: The ile, built in but ftanda ^(nall in pro- ft it a neat >> and opens unty court- ge ftrufture, a bad fitua*. « fpo' where uid i< thence cattle 8nnu> ion of beef, >portionabIy in this city K-five; and indred and > have in. w upwards doubtlefs a or are e». to contain :ntrance i« no fortifi. of an old the place 'Cry high, from the s another tred, they are land- : are two ferve at or from I off the land. Ireland.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. land. On the latter of thofe iflands are the remains of an old fortification, ercdled about the end of queen Elizabeth's reign, and which commanded all velTels of burthen pafling up to Corke. One fide of the harbour is formed by Barrymore ifland, which is upwards of four miles long and two broad. The land here is every where high and fteep. The prin- cipal place is Cove, which is inhabited only by fiiher- men, and a few cuftom-houfe officers. It is built upon the fide of tht hill, fo very fteep, that they ftand alnioft one upon another. Spike's Ifland is fituatcd to the left, and is a noted place for fmuggling. The old barrack to the eaft of Elizabeth's fort, was erefted in i6qS, and the new barrack in 1719. Both together are cTpablc of containing feven hun- dred nicn, and afford apartmLnts for the officers. The air of Corke is tolerably clear and healthy, being reficfhcd in fummer by gentle breezes from the Icveral canals, and moderated in winter by the warm vap mrs which arife from the fame. The foil on the fc- th fide Ijeing lime-ttonc ground, the city is indifFtr^iitly fupplied with good water. On the north-fid are fome good fprings ; but the generality of the inhabitants ufe that of the river Lee, taken up at low water, which, it muft be confelTed, is far from being of the pureft kind. The floods fometimes do great damage to the mer- chants and traders here ; and the inhabitants of the city have been fometimes obliged to pafs from houfe to houfe ill boats, in the very middle of the high- ftrcet. It is true, thofe inundations happen feldcm ; but the houfcs upon the quays prepare for them every ■winter, by providing materials 10 flop up the doors of the warehoufes, &c. The environs of Cork are pleiifant, and are deco- rated with many beautiful feats and gardens. Kinfale is fituated on the river Bandon, fourteen miles fouth of the city of Corke, and obtained it? firft charter in the lime of Edward III. It lies in the form of a crefcent round the harbour, which is one of the fincfl: in Ireland j for at low water it is deep enough to contain five hundred fail of the largeft fliips, land-locked, as the failors term it. Some of the buildings of this town are tolerable, but many of them are niouldring away. In the centre is a large market place, near which ftands a ftrong-built prifon. Here are the ruins of feveral monafteries, and religious houffs. That part towards the land was formerly covered by a ftrong wall, if we may judge from the thicknefs of its remaining gates. This town is generally moft fiourilhing in the time of a war with France or Spain. It fends two members to parliament, • - KERRY. The county of Kerry is bounded on the eaft by the counties of Corke and Limerick, on the fouth and weft by the Atlantic ocean, and on the north by the county of Clare. It extends in length from fouth to north near fixty Englifh miles, or about forty. feven Irifli 1 and its grcateft breadth is about fifty four No. 46, ssi Englifli, or forty-three Irilh miles. It is fituated under the fame parallel of latitude as the Englifh counties of Worcefter, Gioucefter, Warwick, Ox« ford, &c. I'he borough of Dingle is fituated at the bottom of a fmall but fafe harbot?', where (hips of a hun- dred tons may come up to the town. The entrance of the harbour was formerly defended by a fmall fort or block-houfe, which has been many years demoliflied. This town was incorporated by queen Elizabeth in 1585, when fhe alfo gave the inhabitants three h>m« dred pound to wall the place. Several of the houfes were built in the Spanifh fafhion, with ranges of ftone balcony windows, the town having been for- merly much frequented by the people of that nation, who traded with the inhabitants, and came to fifli on this coaft. Moft of the houfes are of ftone, witii marble doors and window-frames. Lime being fcarce here, the town-walls were built of clay mTtar, and are gone much to decay. Here is 7 barr- k for a company of foot. The town iiad former!^ 1 monaf- tcry, which was a cell of the abbey of Killagh, near Caftlemain. The parifh church dedicated to St. James, is faid to have been built at the charge of the Spaniards. It was originally very large, but molt of the old ftru£lure is gone to ruin ; a part of it only, called St. Mary's chapel, being kept in re- pair for divine fervice. Tralee or Traly is fituated on a bay northward of Dingle. During the palatinate of the earl of Def- mond, it was the place where he chiefly refided, and has ever fince been the fhire town of the county. It was incorporated by James I, in 1612. In the midft of the town is a fquaie, environed on the .lorth fide with the county court-houfe, and jail, and on the other fides with houfes and fhops. Through the town runs a rivulet, over which are fome fmall ftone bridges. Here were formerly four caflles, of which only one remains. The town is fituated about a mile from the fea, whence a velTei of fifty or fixty tons may come up. The bay, howsver, being open, fhallow, and unfafe for (hipping, the place has very little trade. Its chief advantage arifes from its be- ing the county town, and from the money fpcnt at the affizes, ele£)ions for members of parliament, and other public meetings. Jrs markets are well fup- plied with all forts of provifions, and towards autumn confiderable quantities of hne herrings are taken in the adjacent bay. In the caftle at this place was committed the inhu- man murder of fir Henry Danvers, with the juftices Meade and Charters, who were (lain with all their fervants, when afleep by fir John of Defmcnd, the earl's brother, in the year 1579. This piece of bar- barity paved the way for the dcftruflion of the Def- mond family, which happened foon after. In this county lies the lake of Killarney, fo much celebrated for the variety of beautiful fcencs which it affords. It is generally confidered as forming t'.vo lakes, but may not improperly be diftinguifhed into three. On the caftern fide is fituated tht town of Killarney, whence, to the wefte rn extremity, is one 6 Y conti- n. En< ss^ H B M E R N [Europe, continued range of enormous mountains, the decli- vitiei of which are covered with wood, almoft from their fummitt to the verge of the lalcc. In the latter ii dirperfed a number of beautiful iflands of various fixes, ornamented with trees of almoft every kind, which appear to grow fponcaneouily in great luxu- riance. One of thofe iflands, named Innisfallen, is fup- pofed to be the moft beautiful of an/ in Europe. It contains twenty acres of land, and has every variety which the range of beauty, unmixed with the fub- lime, can give. The general feature is that of wood; the furface undulates into fwelling hills, and finks into little vales ; the flopes are in every direiSlion, ^nd the declivities die gently away, forming thofe flight inequalities which are the greateft beauty of drefled grounds. The little vallies admit views of the furroundiog lake between the hills, while the fwells break the regular outline of the water, and give the whole an agreeable confufion. The wood has all the variety into which nature has thrown the fur- face : in Tome parts it is fo thick as to appear impe- netrable i in others it breaks into tufts of tall tim- !Kr, under which cattle feed. Trees of large fize, and commanding figure, form in fome places natural arches ; the ivy intermixing with the bi'anches, and hanging acrofs in feiloons of foliage, while on one fide the lake gliiters among the trees, and on the other a thick gloom dwells in the reccflc-s of the woods. The figure of the ifland is alfo beautifully diverfified. Foi the coafi being broken and indented, forms bays forrounded either by rock or wood ; and into the lake ihoot flight promontories, the rocky edges of which are crowded with wood. The (hore of Innisfallcn has much variety, but in general it IS woody, and of the beautiful character which pre dominates in the ifland. One bay is particularly beau- tiful. It is of a femicircular form, and in the cen- tre is a projedling knole of wood, which has a fine cffea. Direflly oppofite to this ifland, on the fouth- weft, in a beautiful bay of the lake under the moun- tains, is a magnificent natural cafcade, which de- fcends feveral hundred yards down a (hallow glyn that is moftly covered with trees. Some of the iflands in the upper lake are of fuch a fiupendous height, that they refemble at a diKance fo many lofty towers ftanding in the water ; and being many of them crowned with wreaths of arbu- tu«, reprefent the ruins of (lately palaces. Their edges are fo much worn away by the dafhing of the water againft their fides, and by frequent rain!> wafh- ing away the earth, and time has fo disjointed many of the marble rocks, that feveral of th-m hang in a mod furprizing and tottering manner, and rcprefcnl a rude kind of confufcd architecture, almoft without foundations. In others of them the waters have worn paflagcs fufticicntly large for boats to go through ; and thofe tottering arches, though of imnienfc weight, are in fume places fupported only by v:ry flender pillars. The mod noted of thofe iflands Is that of Rofs, which 6 is rather a peninfula, being only feparated from the main-land by a fmall cut through a morafs, over which is a bridge. On this ifland (lands an ancient caflle, which has a new barrack adjoining. For fe* veral years here has been a garrifon with a governor appointed upon the eftablifliment. The caftle had been flanked with round turrets, which, with its fitu. ation, rendered it a place of fome ftrength. This ifland contams ibout eighty or a hundred acres, well wooded, and fertile of rich paflurage. Salmon are caught in great plenty and perfcClioD in thofe lakes, and fold at the moderate price of one penny a pound. I'he extent of the lower lake, from eafl to weft, may be about fcven or eight miles, and acrofs it from north to fouth about half that ex- tent, fiut from the north of the lower lake to the fouth of the upper, iiicluding the winding llreight between them through the vallies, muft be at leaft ten or twelve miles. The lake of Killarney is bordered by fome of the highcft mountains in Ireland. On the fouth-eaft is the hill of Mangerton, whofe foot the lake wafhcs, and whofe head is generally loft in the clouds. Its altitude was found, by the barometer, to be a thoufand and twenty yards above the lake, which is ccmfidcrably higher than the fea. On the weft fide of Mangerton (land the moun- tains called the Reeks, of a conical figure, much deeper than the former, and furrounded with terrible precipices'. More towards the centre of the lake, is a high mole, called the Turk, whofe fides down to the verge of the water are beautifully covered with groves of various kinds of trees. A part of this hill flopes away like a promontory terminating in the lake, and forming one fide of a canal, which is a paflage into the upper lake ; as does the point of a mountain called Gi.^nna the other fide of this ftreight, which is adorned alfo with foreft trees. As a fine contraft to this verdure, at the back of thofe moun- tains, ftands others, (haped like pyramids, being onl/ naked rocks of a vaft height. VVeftward of Glenna ftands the lofty pike named Tormiflc, variegated half way to its top with a wav- ing foreft i and down whofe fides, cfpccially after rains, run very confiderable catarads into the great lake. As one fide of the lake confids of the above men- tioned range of formidable hills, as the oppofite fide is adorned with a level and beautiful country, with the town of Killarney, and the habitations and im- provements of feveral gentlemen, at different diftanccs. Near Mucrufs, on the borders of this celebrated lake, is a copper mine, reputed to be one of the richcft in Europe. Lead ore has alfo been dilcovercd in the neighbourhood ; and the adjacent mountains ail abound with iron. Within two miles of Killarney, the ruined church of A^liadae ftands on an eminence, in a very fine fl- tuation. It is of great antiquity, and was dedicated to St. rinian. It ftill retain:> the name of a cathe- dral, thoug'i the archdeacon be the only dignitary now belonging to it. Cafliemain [Europe. ted from the loraft, over an ancient 'g. For (e, a governor caftle had i(h iti fitu. gth. This acres, well Ireland.] GENERAL TRAVfeLtEft. 5S7 Caftlemain is (o called from an ancient caftle ere£led on a bridge over the river Mang, and faid to have been built at the joint charge of Mac Carty More, and one of the earls of Defmond, as a place of defence between their refpefkive frontiers. Each of them was to have an equal claim to this fortrefs, and they agreed to give and receive pofleflion of it alternately. Mac Carty went firft into the caftle, and furren- dered it to Defmond, who, inftcad of giving pof- ieilion of it in his turn, ordered his followers to hold it ; who (hut the gates, and drove off Mac Carty and his people. The place continued in Defmond's fa- mily till it was furrendered to queen Elizabeth by the laft earl. Though the caftle has been a long time in ruins, it gives a nominal appointment to a confta- ble, who has a fmnll piece of laiiii annexci.' to it as a felary. The perfon who enjoys this office is generally the clerk of the crown for the county ; and hi has alfo the fifliing of a fmall part of the river near the bridge. Ardfert is at prefent only a fmall decayed village, but is a borough by prefcription, and fends two mem- bers to parliament. It is alfo a bifliop's fee, and has been held in commendam with that of Limerick ever fince the Reftoration. The bifhops were anciently called biOiops of Kerry. The ruins of the nave and choir of the cathedral are twenty-fix yards long, and but ten broad. On the fouth was an arcade of four Gothic arches, which formed an aile. The laft win- dow was twenty-fix foot high. Oppofite to the weft •nd of the cathedral ftands one of the ancient round towers, near a hundred foot high, built moflly of a dark kind of marble. The door of this tower faces the weft entrance of the cathedral, with the defign, as is fuppofed, that the penitents who were enclofed in it might receive the prayers of the congregation, St going in and out of the church. The pcrfons who return members for this borough to parliament, are a port-rievc, and twelve burgeft'es. Here arc at prefent only one or two good houfes, a few cabbins, and fome old ruins, A little to the caft of Ardfert ftand the ruins of a FranciCcan friery founded by Thomas Fitzmaurice, the fiift baron of Kerry, in 1253. The walls of the fteeple, the choir, with fome of the cloyfters, the dormitory, and morning prxyer chapel, remain en- tire, and bear evident marks of its having been for- merly a noble ftrudure. The promontory called Dunmore-head, in this county, IS reckoned the moft weftern point of Eu- rope, About a mile and a half hence ftands the largeft of the Blalkct or Ferriters iflands, called alfo the Blafques, The number of tbofe iflands is twelve, but four of them are only rocks. The ifland Innifmore, i, e, the great ifland, is about three mile in length. It has a high moun- tain, with fome arable ground towards the caft end { and on it refide five or fix families, which pay tithes to a very dlflant parifli, called Ballinvokir. The air of this ifland is efteemed remarkably filubrious ; and here are the ruins of a very ancient church. The fecond ifland in magnitude is called Innis- Mac-Keilane, or Mac-Keilane's ifland. It lies feveti miles fouth-weft from the head-land of Dunmore. The land being low and too bleak to afford (helter, here have been no inhabitants for many years ; but the ifland contains the ruins of an ancient chapel, with an old ftone chalice, and a baptifmal font. Here is alfo a fmall cell or hermitage, being an arch of ftone neatly put together without any mortar or cement, and which admits no rain. StruAures of this kind are to be fden in fome other parts of Ire- land. They are faid to have been ereAed by the firft miffionaries, who preached the Gofpel in this kingdom. They were probably the firfl edifices of ftone ere£led in Ireland, and are fuppofed to vye in point of antiquity with even the round towers. Their form feems to have been taken from that of the fmall huts, made of bended wattles, by the old inhabitant* of the Rritifh iflands. The third ifland is called Innis-ni-Broc, or Quern ifland. It has received this name from its round form ; a quern being a fmall kind of mill ftone about two foot diameter, and five or fix inches deep, like an earthen pan, within which another ftone is placed. This ifland lies at no great diftance from the fecond above mentioned, and about four miles from the grea' Blafquet. The fourth ifland is called Innis-Tufkart, or In- nis-huigh, i. e, the Northern ifland. It is upward* of an Irifh mile in length, and not being inhabited, has no building on it, except one of the cells abovementioned. Near the great iflind are three fmall ones. The firft is called Beg-Innis, i. e. the Little ifland. It is a very fertile fpot, confifting of about ffxteen acres, that will fatten thirteen bullocks every fum- mcr. The grafs is moft clover and cinquefoil, and is conftantly enriched by the fpray of the fea, which always leaves behind it a confiderable quantity of fait. The other two are ufed likewife to fatten cattle, but they are fmaller. Four miles north-weft from the great ifland, is a ftupendous rock, on the fide of which rifes a fmaller pyramid, not quite fo high. In the fpring this rock is covered with an infinite number of fea- fowl, which breed upon it. On the other iflands alfo are hatched great numbers, that are deftroyed by the country people, chiefly for their feathers, of whicii they colledt feveral hundred weight. Moft of thofe iflands are ftocked with (heep, and black cattle. I'he latter are very difKcult to be landed on them, and are generally carried in when about a year old. On fome of the iflands they become fo wild that their owners hunt them down, and are obliged to kill them before they can be carried ofF. The hides, flefh, and tallow, fufliciently pay for their pafture, for as thofe iflands are not inhabited, no profit can be made from the milk. The iflands are moftly well ftocked with rabbits, that have fcarce any other enemy than the hawks and eagles, which de- vour great numbers of them. The hawks on this oaft are remarkably good, and were formerly in much efteem. Thofe of the iflands are accounted mucb ii! tfsl^ t H E M O mucb better than the falcons bred on the continent ) becaufe they are always on the wing, and conftantly fly over the mainland in fearch of prey. They fuldom kill fea-fowl, nor will they feed on their flcfli, except after very long faftlng. A fniall bird, called by the Irifli, gourder, is faid to be peculiar to thofc illands. {t is fomewhat larger than a fparrow ; thefeathers of the bacic arc dark, and thofeof the belly white; the bill is ftraight, fhort and thick, and it is web-footed. When iirft taken, the country' people affirm,, that they cad up about a tea- fpoonful of a' very fvne oil. They are almoft one lump of fat, and when roalled, of fo delicious a tafle, that they are reckoned to exceed the ortclan. On this account the gentry hereabouts call them the Irifb wtelans.' In fome places, the (hore of this county is partly ctoinporcd of high fand hills, and partly of flrep clifts, on the latter of which the ruins of fome caftlcs are badly fituated, particularly thofe of Ballybuncan, Dune, and Lick. The latter flood on a rock, al- mod Surrounded by- th«' fea, and had formerly a draw- bridge. The caflle of Dune was alfe built on. a high clift flanding perpendicular over the occan>i Northward of Lick,- flands a high clift, called by the country people, the Devil's Cftle. It is inac- ceiEble to any creature I ^t lowls, and has an esgle's neft in its fummic. The whole {bore hereabouts has a great variety of romantic caves and caverns formed by. the dafhing of the waves. In fome places are high open arches, and in others impending rocks, that feem ready to tumble down upon the firll ftoira. Not far from the laft mentioned caftle is a deep hole in the earth, feveral yards from the verge of th« '... <•. into which the fea has an ingrefs, and whe^e '' remc- times makes a -.r''.'>'ous roaring noife. Among the illasj'Vi r , this coafl is that of- Valentia, which forms the fout'i CjW or du bay of Cafllcmain, r.t the diilance of a'lou: Ux leaguci om the Blafeeto on Ferritci : tflandi, which form ,he north fide of this bay. Valentia is about five miles in length, and is feparaced from the main land Hy a brack of the fea, which is in mod places about half a mile broad, and of fufficient depth for velTcIs to fail through at any time of the tide. The ifland is a fertile tra£t, and is eftcemed the granary of the country. L I M E li I C K-. The county of Limerick is bounded on the fouth by the county of Kerry ; on the wefl, partly by the Atlantic ocean, and partly by the county of Clare ; on the north by the counties of Clare and Tippcrary ; and on the caft, partly by the county of- Tippcrary, and partly by that of VVatetford. Thi capital of the county is Limerick, conipofed of w'. 't is called theliilh and the Englifh town. J'he latter (lands upon a piece of ground called the King's iila> d, formed by tiie Shannon, which divides itfelf a lit'le above the city. Both towns, in their ancient (late, conlift of one long wide ftrcct, well builr, interfedled at right angles by many narrow lanes, in form of a 7 R N [EUROPB. comb with a double row of teeth. The Englifh and lri(h town feem pretty much alike in their buildings; and are joined together by an old bridge cfalled Baal's. On the fame arm of' the river, communicatrng with the quays and the new ftrects, is an elegant bridge, lately bmlt, of throe archesv The middle one, the Ipan of wthich is forty foot, admits boats under fail. The third bridge, thrown < ver the great arm of the rivef is called Thoaiond's, and, thoMgh conGnin ' of fourteen arches, is faid to have been built for thirty pounds. Limerick is naturally a place of great (Irength. For, without the inconvenience of circumjacent hills, it is built upon an illand, encircled by a (Irong barrier, the arms of the Shannon. It is now difmantled, and (carce a trace of its old walls and feventeen gates i» to be feen. The fubflitution of fpacious quays and commodious haufcs, in the room of lofty battlement.^ and maiTive badions, has given it a complete ani healthy ventn tion. Limerick, like London, had formerly beer jften vifitcd by the phgue; but the efTedl here has alfo ceafed with the removal of the caufe. A few j-nrs ago the t-y/n flood on (ixty-four acres of ground ; bur now it covers one hundred, whicit is equ^tl tc a ; .dred and fixty of our meafure. The! (hips in ihk port trading to London are increafcd iir number frri;< d-.;- to tWelve ; and th*- revenues have bco at"^mr' ,^d j.'om fixteen to forty thoufand pounds yraiiy.. -if cutting canals- vppofite to the (hallows and /o("' ' in the riverj it will be rendered navigabli; to Car . in the county of Leitrim, a fpace of .-'-r-'y ,.,1 j u|> the river j which will open a con- vi:;'-'nw /-r rain, ."iber, iron, ceals, &e. and muft ."St length turn the channel of trade in thofe parts thi- ther. '' he good e(Fe£l of a very ihott oat made ncnr the town, is alread; fenitbly felt. For fea-coalt which was formerly t-ieir fuel, is fo difufed, that its- price iii r.-uch lowered ; turf, the material of which i» ail tleif. own, now fupplying their hearths. This nsvigatiOii of near two hundred Englifh miles in length, by rotnmunicating with that leading from Dubl'n, through the bog of Allen, mud, in time, make Limerick on', of the mod conflderable places for importation in the kingdom. The fame caufc may opance upon, tht exports, by rendeiing fo eafy the conveyance of beef, butter, hides, tallow, grain, &c. to the fca-port. Though the town is fixty miles from the Tea, (hips of five hundred tons come up to- the quaysi In this city- are three churches. The cathedral h a mafTive Gothic pile, with a good ring of bells, and' fome decorations. The cudom-houfc is an elegant modern ftrufliire: the pediment is fupported by fluted piladers ; the front has but five windowa in a row, yet, including the colonnades, the whok elevation is near two hundred foot, The inhabitants of Limerick had once a manU- failurc of fergcs, but it it nearly extin£^. They aic, however* famous for making gloves; and fome northcrnr foldicrs, who have been difcharged here, arc giving? birth to the weaving of linen, -'i' '■■ \ The P«R0 pp. E^ngli/h and r' bii ridings; piled Baal'g. Icatfng with jant bridge^ |le one, the under fail. arm of the Ih confiflinT' M built for "gth. For, |:nt hills, it long barrier; pnt'ed, and F"» gates ij 'luays anJ I battlement* "npletc ani 'ndon, haJ '« j but the loval of the y- four acres red, which '""'c. Tha increafcd it< venues have fand pound* ha ftallows i navigabl'e a fpace of open a eon- ■• and mult : parts thi- ■ niade nenp r fea-coafi ■^) that ito of which i» iglifli miica aJing from , in time, places for caufc may b eafy the grain, &c. miles from up lathe ifiedral h clls, and' 1 elegant by fluted ii a row, 'vation is a manti- "hey arc, "orehernr c giving* The: iREtAND.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 5S9 length, and ; \ parifh church, till within thcfe thirty years \ bui the fituation not being accefTiblc enough, (which, however, twenty pounds might have rendered fo,) -.;,e roof was wantonly pulled down, an afl of parliament and a grant of money being firft obtained, to change the file of the cathedral from the rork to the town. A new church of ninety foot by forty-five, was accordingly begun, and raiftd ai high as the wall-plates. liut in that ftatc it has flood for near ninety years. nd ifift. inie of i''jbited by -'■\ been a W A T E R F O R D, The county of Watcrford is hounded on the weft by Tipperary and Co.k: on the north by tho river Suirc, which feparatcs it from the counties ol Kil- kenny and TIpper.iry ; and on the caft and ibuth t r St. George s channel, and a part of the h.irbour of Watcrford, whieh divides it from the county of Wexford. Its greateft length from eaft to wefl ii 6 Z about it'' i ■ if V H 560 H MOD R N [Europe. about forty Iri(h miles, and its greated breadth about twenty ; but in fomc places it ii not half, and in others, not above a quarter fo much, 'I'he face of this county, in many places, is 'ude, and but little removed from the fiaic in whicli na.ure originally formed it; much of it being rocky ind mountainous, efpecially about the middle and north- weft parts. It is, however, well adapted to the breed of young Ciittle, and produces a confider .Mi* quantity of butter, with fome kinds of grain, n barley, oats, and rye. The greater part of the fca-coall ;s plea- fant and fertile. Towards the weOern part of the county (lands Lifmorc, at prefcnt little better than a village, though formerly a city of confiderable note, and the feat ol a univerfity. Infttad of its ancient luftre, the cathe- dral, the caftic, and a few tolerable houfes, intermix- ed with cabbins, is all that now appear. The nave of the prefent cathedral feems, by its Aru£iure, to be of no great antiquity, but the choir is evidently very ancient, BefiJes the cathedral, no lefs than twenty other churches are faid to have been in this place i of feveral of which the ruins are yet vifible. The cadlc of Lifmore was built by king John in Ii8ji and in 1189 demuliflicd by the Irifli, who look it by fiirprize, Being rebuilt, it was m.iny years the rcfidence of the bifhops, till Miler Macgrath, archbift.op of Calhil, and bifhop of this fee, fome- time before his refignation in 1589, with the confent of the dean and chapter, granted to Sir Walter Ra- leigh the manor of Lifmore, and other lands, at the yearly rent of 13I. 6s. 8d. "• e cadle is boldly fitu- atcd upon the verge of a hiii, upwards of fixty foot perpendicular over the Black- water, Oppofite to the great window of the caftle, opens a deep and wide glyn, wooded on boih fides, and pleafantly watered by a fiiiall river, which, at about a mile's diftiMce, winds off 10 the weft (iiie of the great mountain of KnocL. Tiele-down, four miles north, 1 i.'s obje>^ exafily fates the window, and appears like a v.ift cone. There are at Lifmore a free-khooi, and an alms- houfe, founded by Sir Walter Raleigh, and after- wards augmented and confirmed by the firft Earl of Corkc, who rebuilt bvuh. At the diftancc of 3 few miles from Lifmore, ftands the caflle of Strancally, bu'lt upon a rock, diteflly over the Black-water. Fiom the caft.lc to the river, a pali'igc is cut through the rock, of a confiderable breadth and pretty deep. According to tradition, it was formerly ufed by the tyrannical earls of Defmond, as a prifon for fuch peifons as had fortunes in this part ot the C( mtry, wl.om they Ircqiicntly invited to the caftle, under a focial pretext, and afterwards con- fin« have been burnt to the ground by lightning, and to have been rebuilt in the year 1232. Since the fees were joined, it is made r.fe of as a pariflj-church. Three miles fouth from Lcighlin- bridge, on the river Barrow, (lands Bagnal's-town, intended to have been made one of the bcft towns in the kingdom, by the name of Verfailles, A mngnifiecnt fquare, court-houfe, and feveral other public buildings, wTf raifed with Aoncs of dift'erent kinds, intermixed with marble. The proprietor's defign was to bring the great road thiough this town inflead of Leighlin- bridge ; but failing in the attempt, a flop was put to the building, afrer having incurred a prodigious cxpence. KILKENNY. The county of Kilkenny is bounded on the ea(i by part of the counties of Carlow and Wexford ; on the fouth by the county of Waterford ; on the wed- by Tipperary ; and 01. the north by Qiiten's county It (ontains ninety-fix pariflu'-, ftvcn hoioughs, and fends fixteen members to parliament. The chief town is Kilkenny, fituatcd on the river Neiire, fifty-four miles fouth-weft of Dublin. 'J his city had formerly the appellation of HoU'; and indeed the remains of ruined monafteries evince, that build- ings confecratcd to re! gion overfpread above a thiid part of it. The town confifls of between two and three thoufiind houfes. The cathedral, which was founded in 1202, is a very vcncMi k Ciothic (Iruc- turc. The nave is divided from the aifler, by mafly columns of black marble ; and from the bifhop's pa- lace to the church, is a long and double colonnade, in the modem f1yle. Thv length of this edihie is two hundred and twenty- fix foot, and breadth * hundred and twenty three. Its htijjht is proportioned to ' A'*f.f/ ,\ftitiltli4^fjroHt/,i'nJ.'H ICLJIinUtti of time /■'.ii.tr/i-.'i.i /■.■nJ.'ii «yle too modern to corrcii^uiiu « - n . the former ftruaurc. The front next the ftreet .s built upon level ground, and, with the chapel, forms a large fquare. It is entered by a lofty gate of marble, of the Corinthian order. The other part ftand. upon a precipice, overhanging the bend of a deep and rapid river, with two ftately bridges full in view j the wore diflant compofed of feven arches, and that next the caftlc of three, but of a very wide fpan, of hewn marble, in fine eliplical proportions. In the environs of Kilkenny are the celebrated marble mills, invented by Mr. Colli.. They fland .n a delightful bottom, upon the river Nore, about a mile from the town. Thefc engines are fo admirably contrived, that they faw, bore, and pol.lh at the fame time. The marble quarry is within two hun- dred yards of the mill i ;>nd thoujh it is not vane- No. 47. One of the cathedrals is named the Trinity, or Chrilt- church, and the other that of St. Patrick. The for- mer is the more beautiful, but both contain many monuments. The modern built churches in Dublin have neither fpircs norfteeples, but two or three of them are adorned with elegant ftone fronts. The round church, on the fouth fide of the Liffy, is, as its name import*, really circular, and very convenient for the perform- ance of oatorios. The bifhop's palace, or St, Sepulchre, is very old, and fituated not far from St, Patrick's cathedral. Thepatliament-houfeon College- green, begun in ,729, and finifhed in ten years, at the expence of forty thoufand pounds, is a magnTicent building. The houfe of lords is as elegant aj any public room in 7 A <3^"' 's'M I iirUt\ ^^n%. •ftet!-** •1 .., r.-l-t« •«•«'. »r»--Wti'. J.f .TBFr 'f I « \ : I ? ; north is called rort iviargci, aim the other, Fort Rofclair. At this place landed the firft F.nglifh forces that attempted to make a conqucft of the kingdom j and here alfo Henry II. embarked, after receiving ho- mage from moft of the princes of the nation. C A R L O W. The county ofCarlow or Cathcrloii^h is bounded on the fouth by the county of Wexford ; on the weft by part of Kilkenny and Queen's county ; on the north by part of Qiieen'b county and the county of VVickloW J and on the cafl by St. George's Channel. The chief town of this county is Carlow, pka- fanily fituattd on the river Bartow, over which it by J ipperary ; and en the north by Qiitcn's county. It contains ninety-fix parifhcs, fcven boroughs, and fends fixteen members to parliament. The chief town is Kilkenny, fituated on the river Neurc, fifty- four miles I'uuth-wcft of Dublin. This city had forincrly the uppcllation of Holy; .nnd iiidcrd the remains of ruined monafteries evince, that build- ings confecrated to religion ovcrfpread above a ihiid part of it. The town confifts of between two and three ihnufiind houfcs. The cathcdrjl, which was founded iii 1202, is a very venciabit Ciothic ftruc- ture. The nave is divided ftom the nlHer, by niafiy columns of black marble ; and from the bifliop's ps- lai:e to the church, is a lonp and dculle colonnade, in the modern flyle. The length of this eiifice is two hundred and twenty-fix foot, and brealth a hundred and twenty thtcc. Its height is proportioned to Ireland.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 563 "U> s county, ghs, and I he rii'cr ■■ 1/iis id i/iJcrd n biii/d. ' a third wo and cli was c fliuc- y mafly p's pa- ifice is iltl) a 'tiyr.cd to (o Ihcfe dimennoiu ) and be njei a centre aiflr, it hai oni on each fiJe. The choir ii very beautil ', aiul the cicling adurncil with curioui frct-worl. The flalln arc maJe of wood, but very well ornamented j and the rayi uf the fun painted over the communion- lab!'. Icem as if they gave light to ihe whole, The arch ir the middle of the church is ctteemed a mafler- ly pertoimincc. This noble fabric ftandt on an eminence, with a defccnt all around it. The church-yard, which is entered from the town by a flight of marble fteps, it planted regulaily with trees ; and to the wed is a handfomc terrace, where is a beautiful profpefl of * very fine country. The bi(hop'i palace It new built, enclofcd with a high wall, in which are two gates, one leading out of the church-yard, and the other into a back llreet. The city of Kilkenny would much refcmble Ox- ford, if the latter were divefted of its towers and pinnacles. The main (Ireet is a full Englifh mile in length, and for the moft part it is fpacious. Near the lAiddieftandi the market-place, and the tholfcl or town-houfe, a very good building. Adjoining to thufe is a handfomc Gothic crofs, but now much in- jured by time. It is not unlike that of Coventry in England, but not fo high. Nine gates of this city are yet (landing, and its former flrcngth is evinced by the remains of old walls, which arc raifed in Tome places over rocks. Along the fide of the river, is a pleafant walk, about a mile in length, planted with trcet. The hill on which the cathedral (lands, is called the Iri(h town, and that where the caftle it fituated, goes by the name of the Englilh town, The former conAfts moflly of forry houfcs, and poor cabins ; but the latter is generally well built. Each of them fends two meoibert to parliament. The ciRle was found- ed in 1192, by Randolphus III, earl of Chefler, but built, as it now (lands, by the Butlers, anceftorsof the dukes of Ormond. This edifice, the magni(i- eence of which is heightened by the loftinefs of its fituation, has been gradually falling Into decay fincc the attainder of the lad duke. In his time it was a fpacious fquare, only two fides of which arc now Handing. They are now rebuilding it, but in a flyle too modern to correfpond with the antiquity of the former (Iruflure. The front next the ftrect is built upon level ground, and, with the chapel, forms e large fquare. It is entered by a lofty gate of marble, of the Corinthian order. The other part (lands upon a precipice, overhanging the bend of a deep and rapid liver, with two (lately bridges full in view j the more diflant compofed of feven arches, and that next the cadlc of three, but of a very wide fpan, of hewn marble, in line eliptical proportions. In the environs of Ki!li-nny are the celebrated marble mills, invented by Mr, Collis, They (land in a delightful bottom, upon the river Nore, about a mile from the town. Thefc engines are (o admirably contrived, that they faw, bore, and polifh at the fame time. The marble quarry is within two hun- dred yards of the mill ; nnd thuugh it is not varie- No, 47, gated like the Italian, it is faid to bear is fint > polifli* and to be no lefs durable. Four miles north of Kilkenny Is Dunmore cave, fituated in the middle of a fpacioui field. The en> trance to thit cave is diftinguifhed by ■ mondroui flight of birds of different fpeciet, whof* number! darken the horizon. DUBLIN. The county of Dublin it bounded on the fouth by VVicklow } on the wed by Kildare j on the north by Ead Meath ; and on the ead by the Iridi fea. The capital of this county, and of the whole kingdom, is Dublin, fituated in fix degrees thirty minutes of weft longitude, and in fifty-three degrees fourteen minute* of north latitude. It Hands at the mouth of the river Li(Fy, which divides the city into two partt. Over the river are five bridges, among which that named Efltx bridge it the mod worthy of notice. It confid* of five arches of done, the chord of that in the mid- dle being forty-eight foot. It hat raifed foot-paths, alcoves, and baludradet, of a white done, coarfc but hard. The length of it it two hundred and Mtf foot, and the breadth about the fame with that of Weftminder, Here the tide rifet on an average about ten foot. Queen's bridge is alfo very neat, and con- fids of three elegant arches. At the end of Efl<;x bridge is the elegant new build- ing of the exchange. The whole is of white (lone, richly embelliflicd with femicolumnt of the Corinthian order, a cupola, and other ornaments, with a ftatue of his prcfcnt majedy. Near the exchange, on a little eminence, it fituated the cadle, the rcfidcnce of the lord-lieutenant. It confids of two large courts, called the upper and lower cadle yard ; in the latter of which are the trea- fury, and fome other public offices. This caftle, though not very fumptuous, is upon the whole far fuperior to that of St James's, Here arc two cathedrals, and eighteen parifh- churchcs, befidcs feveral chapels, meeting-houfes, &c. Neither of the cathedrals is rcmaikable foe archite£ture ; and in refpciSl of the parifh-churches, except on the front of three or four of their (leeples, external cmbelli(hments have been but little ftudied. One of the cathedrals is named the Trinity, or Chrifta church, and the other that of St. Patrick. The for- mer is the more beautiful, but both contain man/ monuments. The modern built churches in Dublin have neither fpircs r.ordceples, but two or three of them are adorned with elegant (lone fronts. The round church, on the fouth fide of the LifFy, is, as its name imports, really circular, and very convenient for the perform- ance of oatorios. The bifhop's palace, or St, Sepulchre, is very old, and fituated not far from St, Patrick's cathedral. The parliament-huufe on College-green, begun in 1729, and finifhcd in ten years, at tiie expence of forty thoufand pounds, is a magnificent building. The houfe of lords is as elegant as any public room in 7 A Great iim IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^^ // ./> 1.0 u IL25 HI 1.4 S^i |2j2 lit 140 1 2.0 m Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14SS0 (716) S72-4S03 564 THE MODERN [Europe* Oreit Britain. The houfe of coiMBDnt !l oAuguUr and very capacioui, infinitely fupcrier to that at Weft- minftcr. This'noble edifice is one of the priocipil ornamerd of the city. The front it a portico of the Ionic order, and in genctal, well cseciitcd, in the form of the Greek IT, fupported by lofty columni of Portland {lone. Near the parliament-houf': (lands Trinity college, which conflitutes the whole of the univerfity. It confifti of tvro fquares, compriflng thirty-three buildings, of eight rooms each. The edifice has twenty-three windows in front, is of white flonr, and four florin in height. It was begun in 1591. College-green, which is the name of the ftrcct leading to itc front, regularly widens in its approach, and terminates in a triangular opening. On the right is the parliament-houfe, and in the centre of the tri- angle an equeftrian ftatue of William III. I'bree fides of the farther fquarc of the college are built of brick, and the fourth is a fuperb library, which, be- ing conflruAed of very bad flone, is mouldering to ruin. The Infide is commodious and magnificent, embellifhed with many bufls of ancient and modern worthies. The new fquare, three fides of which have been built within twenty years, by parliamentary bounty, and thence called i'arliament- fquare, is of hewn ftone, of a coarfe grain, but extremely hard. The front next the city, i* Tinamented with pilafters, fefloons, &c Near the college, in the fame line, is the ProvoA't houfe, a handfome building of free flone. The new ball, where the members dine, is a fpacious room. The mufeum contains few obJeAs to entertain curi- ofity, excepting a fet of figures in wax, reprefenting females in every ftate of pregnancy. In the ana- tomy houfe of this college h a human fkeleton, be- tween feven and eight foot high { part of the body of one Macgrath, an orphan, born in the neigh- bourhood of Cloyn^. The child fell into the hands of the famous Berkley, then bifhop of that fee ; who being defirous to afcertain the poffibility of increafing the human flature by art, made the experiment on this orphan. The confequence was, that the latter became feven foot high in his fixteenth year. He was carried throu(^h various parts of Europe during the laft years of his life, and exhibited as the Irifh giant. So difproportioned were his organs, that hecontrafied an univetfal imbecility both of body and mind, and died fuperannuated at the age of twenty. His under jaw was monflrous, yet the Ikull did not exceed the common fize. In the fame repofitory is the fkeleton of one Clerk, a n tive of Corke, whom they call the offifkd man. This perfon became almoft totally offified in his life- time, and exifled in that miferable condition feveral years. He is faid to have f^tt the firfl fymptoms of this furprifing change fome time after he had lain all night in the fields fubfequent to a hard debauch. By flow degrees every part grew into a bony fubflsnce, ex- cepting his (kin, eyes, and entrails. His joints be- came fo rigid as to be utterly incapable of the fmillefl notion. His teeth were joined, and formed into one large bone. The tongue loft iti uCe, «nJ hii fight left him fome time before he expired. This fcminary was founded and endowed by queen Elisabeth, of whom, however, it contains neither ilatue, bufl, nor piAure. The provoflfhip is com- puted to be worth three thoufand pounds a year { the place of a fenior fellow about feven hundred a-year ; and that of a junior fellow a hundred, befides com- mons, and the inftrui^ion of pupils. I'he num.'ir of fenior fellows is feven, of junior fifteen. There are fcventy fchoiars, and thirty fibers. Among the ftudents are three different ranks, via. fellow-com- moners, pcnfioners, and fixers, who dine by them- felvfj according to their clafies, and are diftinguifhed by a difference in their gowns. The number of ftu- dents is variable, but generally about four hundred. Near St. Stephen's green is the manfion houfe of the lord mayor, a brick building of two ftorics, with five windows in front. Here arc, however, fome magnificent flrudui-es of modern date j fuch as the duke of Leinfler's, near the manfion-houfc, and lord Charlemont's, on the oppofite fide of the river. MofTe't hofpital, or the lying-in hofpital, ii fituated in Great Britain-ftrcet, near the northern extremity of Dublin, and is remarkable for the beauty of its arcbiteAure. It was founded in 1745, by Dr. Moflr, and is now fupportcd '>y grants from parliament, pri- vate bcnefafiions, wit'> the profits arifing from con« cert;, and its public gardens. The latter are fituated behind the hofpital, and contain a large circular room called the Rotunda, built in imitation of that at Ra- nelagb near London, and about a third as large, but without any pillar in the centre. Here thejr have an organ and orcheftra for concerts, in the wet evenings of fummer, and for balls in winter. At the weft end of the city, on the north fide of the water, near the Phoenix park, ftands the barracks, which are capable of containing three thoufand foot and a thoufand horfe. The whole is of rough ftone, ornamented .viih cornices and window cafes of cu( ftone. It confifts of three fquares, or rather im- perfefl fquares, each wanting its fouth fide. Nearly oppofite, on the fouth fide of the river, is Dr. Ste- vens's hofpital for fick and wounded objeds of cha- rity ; in the neighbourhood of which ftands St. Pa- trick's hofpital for lunatics and idiots, founded by the late celebrated dean Swift in 1745. Near the barracks, on Oxmantown-green, hai very lately been ere£led a new blue-coat hofpital, a beautifal fljne building, not yet entirely finifhed, but which will be one of the nobleft about Dublin. Weftward of Stevens's is the hofpital of Kil- mainham, or royal hofpital, anfweriog to our Chel- fea, and built in 1695. ^' contains about five hun- dred men. Befides the hofpiiais already mentioned, here are ten or twelve others, ufeful, but not ornamental (lru£lures. Almoft every parifh in the city has proieftant fchools, fupported by charitable donations, collcfled principally in the churches at charity fermons The parliament Ireland.] 0£NERAL TRAVfeLLER. i65 parliaownt grintt u untial fum to a poor houfe, for receiving and fupporeing foundlingt from every part of tbt kingdom. To tkii hotafc it i* not un- Hfual to fend children even from England j and they are alwayt received without dificuity. In ihia metropolis are two theatrct { one in Smock- alley, and the other in Crow-ftreet. The latter is nearly of a fice with that in Drury-lanc, and is one «f the moil elegant and heft conftrudled theatres, for the advantage both of the afiors and audience, of any in the three kingdoms. From the badnefs of the ftreeti, hackney-coaches are here more frequent in proportion »han in London, and fedan chairs are every whereas common as about St. Jamcs'a. Here is an odd kind of a fingle horfe chaife, called a Noddy, which it a very dangerous vehicle. The fare of it it half that of a coach. Goods are conveyed about the city on two-wheeled cartt drawn by a fingle horfe. The wheel i are thin round blockc, about twenty inchet in diameter. They aie frequently ufed at vehicles for the common people on their parties of pleafure ; when a bed or mat is placed on the car, and half a dozen people fit on it, with their legs hanging a few inches from the groand. They are generally dragged a foot-pace. The city cohtaina about thirteen (houfand five hun- dred houfct, and it is compated that the inhabitants amount to a hundred and fiaty thoufand. It it remarkable, that in this large and populous city there (hould be an almoft total want of good innt for the accommodation of travellert. This de- feA obliges every body that is acquainted with the place to get into private lodgings as foon at poffible, or to ufe the hotels lately fet up, fome of which are elegant. A penny-poft office hat lately been eftablilhed for tlie carriage of lettert in and about Dublin ; and there are about twenty ftage-coachcs for the convey- ance of paAengen to variout parit of the kingdom. There are, however, no ftaget for horfet, excepting on the road from Dublin to Belfaft ; fo that the only convenient method of travelling it to hire a carriage and horfet by the week or month. The roads of the country are univerfally good, but near Dublin ex- tremely bad. The bay of Dublin it about three or four miles wide, and fix or feven deep. The bar of this harbour is vtry incommodious, but the entrance be- ing at leaft eight miles from the city, is extremely beautiful and pldurefquc ; diverfilied with hills and promontories on cither hand, and exhibiting a fpacious amphitheatre, bounded by a high fliore, contiguous :o which is interfperfed a number of villas. Ail the outlets of Dublin are pleafant, but chiefly that which leads through Leixllp, a neat little village, about feven milct up the Liffy ( the banks of which being prettily tufted with wood, and enlivened by gentlemen's feats, afFord a variety of landlkips, beau- tiful beyond defcription. EAST MEATH. The county of Eaft Meath is bounded on the foiith by Rildate and Dublin ; on the weft by Wtit Mcath I and Longford t oh the north by Caran and Louth | and on the eaft by the Irifh Channel | extending in length thirty-fix milei, and in breadth above thirty. It contains a hundred and thirty-nine parifhe;, fix boroughs, and fends fourteen members to parliament. The chief town it Trim, fituated twenty-three miles from Dublin. Thii place had formerly a caftle^ the rulni of which, with thofe of an abbey, remains Mere it now a barrack for a troop of horlb. Kellt it a fhnall town, with a round tower in the church-yard. In the market-place it a ftone crob with bafTo relievoi, reprefenting ftags and dogS} and near it the remnants of three other crofTcs. WEST MEATH. The county of Weft Meath it bounded on the eaft by Eaft Meath ; on the fouth by King's county ^ on the Weft by Rofcommon { and on the north by Longford. It contains fixty-two parifhei, with four boroughs ; fends ten members to parliament, and it one of the moft fertile and populous countiet in the Iclngdom. The chief town it Mulingar. L O tJ T rt. The county of Louth it boanded on the north hf Vlonagban and Armagh i on the eaft by the Irifh Channel ; on the fouth by Eaft Meath ; and on the welt hy Cavan. It extendt twenty-nine miler in length, and thirteen in breadth { containing fifty pa> rilhes, with five boroughs, and fends ten members to parliament. The chief town is Drogheda, fituated on the river Boyne, about a mile from t'M fea. It confifts, moftly of two ftrcilt, which interlbft each other at right anglet. The tholfcl or town-houfe il a handfoffl* tkont building. About two milct front the town is ■ ftoni obelifk, twenty foot fqnare at the bafe, and about a hundred and fifty foot high. Il ftands on a rock on the edge of the river iioynf\ and bears an infcription, celebrating the viAory gained of king William over the forces of Jamet II. At Cluan Mac Nois, in this neighbourhood art feveral remaint of ancient grandeur, particularly ftately crofTei curioufly carved in flone, with ver^ ancient Irifh infcriptions. Eighteen milet north of Drogheda llet Dundalk, which had formerly been a fortified town, as appeart from the ruins of walls, and a caftle deftroyed in 1641. (t hat an open bay, but a very mean harbour, being fo thallow at low water, that people walk ovef it dry fhod, and it is little ufed but by filhing boats. Eight miles diftant from the preceding lies Car- lingford, fituated at the mouth of the river Newry* on the fouth fide of a large bay, where the road ii exceeding good quite to the fea. The harbour is ca- pable of corrtaining the whole royal navy of QreaC Britain ; extending nine miles in length, two in breadth, and having from ten to twenty fathom v^ater. The town, though not large, is populout^ ai^d i fiTrnlfhed with fome dock-yards for building fhips. On the fide towards the fea, it is fiot defti* tute 5«6 THE MODERN [Europe. tute of ftrtngth t and here likewife ire btrrackt for infantry. At this place • very narrow long caufe. way hai been Bade over a great bog, that had for< mtrly been impaflablc. L O N G F O R. D. The county of Longford ii bounded on the eaft and fouth by Mcath j on the weft by Rofcommon j and on the north by Leitrim and Cavan. The chief town it Longford, which fend* two members to parliament. OF THE PROVINCE OF ULSTER. C A V AN. The county of Cavan ia bounded on the north by Monaghan i on the eaft by Louth j on the fouth by Longford j and on the weft by Leitrim, The chief town is Cavan. MONAGHAN. The county of Monaghan is bounded on the fouth by Cavan j on the weft by Fermanagh; on the north by Tyrone ; and on the eaft by Armagh. It is thir- ty-two miles in length, and twenty-two in breadth j containing twenty-four patiihn, and one borough, vis. that of Monaghan. ARMAGH. The county of Armagh is bounded on the weft by Monaghan j or. the north-weft by Tyrone j on the north by Anuim ; and on the eaft by the county of Down. The chief town is Armagh, which, tho* an arrhbiflioprick, and the metropolitan fee of all Ireland, contains only one churcli, and the ruins of fome abbeys. The archbifliop of this fee has not only (decorated his cathedral, but built for his refi- dence one of the beft houfes in the kingdom. He has alfo ereScd and endowed a fumptuous diocefan li- brary. In the market-place of this town is a crofs of two ftones, with old bafib relievos, reprefeniing Cbrift on the crofs between the two thieves, and Tome ingenious fret-work. W N. The county of Down is bounded on the weft by Armagh ; on th^ north by Antrim t and on the eaft and fouth by the IriOi Channel. It extends in length forty-two miles, aud in breadth thirty-four { contain- ing feventy-two pariflies, and fix boroupht. The chief town is Down- Patrick, fituated on the fouth- weft branch of Lough-Coyn, or the Lake of Strang- ford. It is reckoned one of the moft ancient towns in the kingdom, being noted in hiftory before the arrival of St. Ps:>ickin ITeland. At prefent the town ii of confidcrab ' vXtent, and it compofed chiefly of four long ftreeti, which meet each other in the centre. It is diftingui I nerable in its ruins. The roof was fupported by five handfome arches, which compofe a centre aile of twenty-fix foot broad, and two lateral aiflei, CKh thirteen foot wide. The whole length of the ftru£iurc is a hundred foot. The heads of the pillars and arches, the tops of the windows, and many niches in the wqIIs^ have been adorned with variety of fculp* ture in Inne, fome parts of which yet remain. Over the eaft window, which is very lofty, are three handfome ancient niches, where are the pedeftals on which it is fuppofed the ftatues of St. Patrick, St. Bridgid, and St. Columb formerly Rood. Adjoining to the eaft end of the cathedral are two fquarc columns, one of which is folid, and the other hollow t and in it arc twenty winding fteps, which are fuppofed to have led up to the roof. On a ftone over the eaft window is a very ancient infcription. At the weft end is an ancient high pil- lar, which has lately been repaired. The church and monument were deftroyed by Leo- nard, lord Grey, lord deputy of Ireland, in 1538 ( the profanation of them being one of the articles of , impeachment laid to his charge { in confequence of which he was Lwheaded three yeara after. There are no ancient monuments remaining in the old abbey t but at the diftance of about forty foot from the cathedral, ftands a round tower, fixty-fix foot high. The thicknefs of the walls is three foot, and the diameter within, eight foot. On the weft fide of it is an irregular gap, about ten foot from the top i near a third of the whole circumference being broke off by the injury of time. The entrance is two foot and a half wide, and placed on a level with the fttr< face of the ground. In this particular it is pretty fingular : for in others the door is placed from eight to twelve foot above the ground, without any ftairs ; fo that thofe buildings can be entered only by means of i ladder. It is indeed not improbable, that, in refpefl of this tower, the above mentioned circum- ftance is owing to the raifing of the ground by the rubbilh of the old cathedral near it. There are in Down Patrick the remains of no left than five religious houfes. Befides thofe buildings, and the prefent church, which is ninety foot by forty, the town is adorned with fevcral other handfome flruAure;, as a diocefan fchool, a lar^jc market-houfe, a horfe-barrack, and a prefbyterian meeting-houfe { but particularly a fedion- houfe. On the declivity of the hill, leading from the old cathedral to the town, is an hofpital. It extends in length two hunJred and forty- five foot, and confifts of a middle range, with two projciSling wings. Over the gateway, in the centre of the houfe, is a hand- fome cupola, of free-ftone. About a mile fouth is a noted horfe eourfe. The hills overhanging the town, on the road leading IrblaniT.] ■ leadigg to St. Patrick*! wclU, command many beau- tiful profpeAi, From the feveral fummiifs arc no kh than fourteen diiFerent views of the lake of Str tti^rurd, with many pcninfulas and iflands interlporcJ. Tiic fca at Killough is in full view, and the iflc of Man viflble from end to end. In clear weather, there is alfo a'diftiniSl profpefl of the Scotch coall. On the north wed fide of the town is a fort or rath of confiderable extent, comprehending at ieaft three quarters of an Englifli mile within the circuit of the works. The circumference of it is two thou- fand one hundred foot, the conical hcigh^ixty foot, the diameter at the top bearing a propoffton to the other parts. It is furrounded by three great ramparts, the moft confiderable of which is thirty foot broad. Oppofite to the old cathedral of Down, in the ifle of Inch, or Innis-Curcey, in the weftern branch of Lough-Coyn, are the ruins of the abbey and abbey- churcb of IjicIi, which were tranflated thither from Carrig, near Lrynach. The church of this abbey was trc£icd in tht form of a crufs, part of which ' remains ; and on the fuuth fide feems to have ftood a ilecple, fupported by an elegant arch. At the eaft end of the church are three large arched windows, upwards of twenty foot high j and on each fide, in the north and foutb walls, are two windows, compofed of two arches, little inferior in height or elegance to the great window on the etd. Thofe windows, for light and ornament, muft have had a grand eiTe^l, when the church was in its fplenJor. In the fouth wall may yet be feen three tops of ftalls. In the 'ame ifland, near the entrance to it by a caufeway, is an old church, which perhaps was a chapel to the great abbey. Over the fouth door is a piece of fculpture rcprefenting the image of Chrifl on the crofs, and a perfon kneeling, with his hands elevated, as in the a£l of adoration. From Down Patrick the paflage to the iflatid of Inch is by Coil-bridge, compofcd of fix arches. About a quarter. of a mile below this bridge, and a mile fiom the town, is the quny for (hipping to the port of Down Patrick. Ships of fifty tons and up- wards can come up to it ; and here ate created good fturc-houfes. From the town a road leads caftward to Caftlc- ward and Strangford, keeping the diAance of about a mile from the (horc of the lake. In this Journey, about a mile from the town, lies the abbey of Saul, perhaps one of the firfl inonaftcries in the kingdom, having been ercAcd by St. Patrick in the year 432. Of this abbey large ruins remain. Here are two fmall vaulted rooms of Auiie yet entire, about feven foot high, fix foot long, and two foot and a half broad, with a fmall window placed in one fide. Thofe fmall chambers were probably confefilunals, or places for private devotion. One of them is now clofed up, and ufed by fome families fur a tumb. At fome diilance . from the church, on the fouth-wcft fide, (lands a 'aftle, with battlements, and two fmall towers. Strangford, five miles call of Down Patrick, is a fm^l ancient trading town. It is feated on the weft fide of Strangford river, or rather on the entrance No. 47. GENERAL TRAVELLER. 567 into Strangford lake, which is h;re half a mile broad. This it properly the port-town of the whole lakr. Here is a church, and a prefbytcrian nieeting-houfe. l''rom this place to the ifle of Man the diftancc is onlv thirty miles. The extent of Strangford lake from Newton in the north, to Strangford in the fouth, is upwards of thirteen miks. The fliape bears in the whole a con- fiderable refembjance to Italy ; that part of it extend- ing weftward from Audley road to Coyne-bridge, near five miles, being like the foot of the boot, and the entrance of AnguiUi rocks to Audley road like the heel. Near Coyne- bridge it becomes narrow for a fliort fpace, after which it fpreads into a branch irre- gularly triangular. The lake is in fome places three, in fome four, and in others, almoft five miles broad. The tide flows to Newton, and is reckoned to rife in fpring tides about four foot at a medium ; but at other times the fwell is very ioconfiderable. There are in this Jake fifty-four iflands, fmall and great, befidei many others which have no name. I'owards the weft fide of it, is a numerous group, that go by the name of the Scatetick Iflands ; fome of which are noted for fattening lean, and reftoting diftempered horfes. Many of ihem are inhabited { moft of them well watered, and profitable boih in grain and grafs. They abound in lime-ftone, and afford variety of wild fowl. The great manufac- ture carried on in thofe iflands, and on the flat ftone/ coaft furrounding the lake, is the burning of fca-weed into kelp, which employs more than three hundred hands, and is faid to produce to the proprietors up- wards of a thou fand founds a year. Four of thofe iflands are called Swan iflands, from the number of fwans that frequent them. The boro'jgh of Killeleagh is fituated on an arm of the lake of Strangford, near five miles northcaft of Down. It ftands on a rifing ground, and has a commanding profpeA of the lake, the Ardes, and St. George's channel. At the upper end of the ftreet is an old caftle, now converted into a gentleman's feat i and at the lower end of the ftreet is a fafe bay, where (hips lie (hcltered rrom all winds. In the towa are fome good houfes, a market- houfe, a horfe bar- rack, and a prefbyterian meeting-houfe. North of Killeleagh, on the fide of Strangford lake, is RinghaJdy, noted now for its oyfters, but formerly for its caftle, which, with another caftle erefled on the ifle Scaterick, not far off, formed two places of defence for thofe parts. Portaferry is fituated near the rapid ferry of Strang- ford, and is a market-town, but irregularly builr. Three miles north-eaft of it, in a field, is an artificial cave, formed in the manner of a fpiral walk, and about fifty yards in length. The entrance is about three foot wide, but fo low, (occafioncd by ftones and cnrth tumbled in) that it muft be crept into on the belly. With the entrance, it confifts of five dcfcents, at each of which is a ftep two foot deep, where probably flig-ftoncs were placed to ftop the pafTage of purfuers. It is terminated by an oval chamber twelve foot long, eight broad, and five high. 7 B The . »' 568 THE M N [EuROPt. The whole fpirti walk, with the chamber, ii formrd of large flat ftonei, built without cement, and roofed with long flag' (tones, placed horizontally, and fup- ported by other projeAing about fix inches from the fide walls. Newton ftands, as was formerly oblbrveJ, on the mod northern point of the lake of Sirangfotd. The ti'le flows up aa far as the town, whither the lake is navigable : yet the principal trade of the place con- fids in the linen manufailure ; and the town is par. ticularly in repute for the fale of great quantities of fine diaper linen. The quakers have here a faAory, and the prefbyterians two meeting-houfes. The old church of Newton is a large building, divided into ailes, by four elegant ftone arches of the Doric order. The market-hocfe is a handfome ftruc- ture. On the wefl end of it is ercAed a cupola with a public clock, and before it ilands a neat o£lagon building of hewn ftone, adorned with a flender ftone pillar, which ferves the town for a market- crofs. At Molville, about a mile north.eaft of Newton, flood a monaftery of Auguftine canons, founded in 550. Part of the ruins of the abbey church yet remains. Bangor was anciently famous for an abbey of can- nons founded by St. Congal, about the year 555. The ruins of Malachy's building ftill remain, and the traces of the old foundation evince it to have been of great extent. Donaghadee is fltuated on the coaft, oppofite to Port Patrick in Scotland. It has a good market, and is the port whire the Scotch pacquets land. The town confifts of two principal ftreets, befidcs lanes. Of the former, one is open towards the fea ; and at the back of it lies the other, which is well paved. The quay is built in the form of a crefcent, of large ftones, without any cement. It is a hundred and twenty yards in length, and about twenty-one or twenty- two foot broad, befides a breaft wall about fix foot broad. The diflenters have here a large meeting-houfe, and the non-conformifts a decent church, which, though an old building, is in good repair, and creel- ed in the form of a crofs, with narrow Gothic arched windows. The church ftands on an eminence at the north- weft end of the town, and may be feen in clear weather from Port Patrick in Scotland. The rath at Donaghadee ftands on the norih-eaft fide of the town, on a natural hill, of a pretty con- fiderable height. It is encompafled by a dry fofs, thirty-three foot broad in fome places, in fome twenty- feven, and in others lefs. The circumference at the bcKtom of the trench is two hundred and nine- teen foot, .::::' the conical height on the north a hun- dred and forty foot. The mount Is afccnded hy feve- ral narrow paths, which arc carried about it fpirally. Three miles fouth of Belvoir, on the hill of Drum- boe, are the ruins of a church, forty-live foot long, and twenty broad ; near which ftands an old round tower, about thirty five foot high, forty-fevt-n in circumference, and nine in diameter. It is conjec- tured that a fmall fortified town formeily ftood at this place. Near two miles north of the tower of Drumboe, is the Giant's Ring, an artificial rath, two thoiifand five hundred and twenty-fix foot in circumference. Near the middle of it Is an ancient Diuidical monu- ment. ANTRIM. The county of Antrim is bounded on the fouth by Down ; on the weft by Londonderry ; and on the north and eaft by the fea. The chief town is Antrim, fituated within a mile of Lough Neagh, on the banks of the Six-mile-water, over which it has a bridge. The town fends two memb:rs to parliament, Carrickfergus is a fea-port town and a borough, fituated in a bay of in name in the IriOi channel. It is walled and fortified. The bay Is fafe and fpacious, and here Is an excellent harbour, with a ftrong caflie on a high rock, artd an ancient palace, now convert- ed into a ihagacine for arms. Belfaft is fituated nine miles weft of Carfickfergus, in the fame bay. It is a port town, and fends two members to parliament. The bridge here over the Lagan is one of the moft ftately in the kingdom, confifting of twenty-one arches. The town is regu- larly built, and the ftreets are broad and ftraight. The number of Scotch in this town is very confider- able, and they carry on a great trade with their own country. Proceeding northward :-< Ballamenab, at Tome diftance from the road is a round tower ; a liti ie be- yond which is Fairhead, whence the coaft ftretchea weftward. Continuing our route three miles, we ar- rive at the Giant's Caufeway, clofe by the fea, into which it runs out in a direflion very nearly north, from the foot of a lofty cliff between two fmall baya about half a mile wide. The fituation of the caufe- ways between the two bays, 00 rocky lofty amphi- theatres, on either hand, has fomething peculiarly ftriking. The principal or grand caufeway, (for there are feveral lefs confiderable and fcattered frag* ments of a fimilar appearance,} cunfiflt of a moft ir- regular arrangement of many hundred thoufand* of columns, outwardly of a whitifli free-ftone colour, but internally a black kind of rock, or bafaltes, hard as marble. Thofe columns are of unequal height and breadth. Some of the higheft, vifible above the lurface of the ftrand, and at the foot of the impend- ing angular precipice, may be about twenty foot. How deep they are fixed in the ftrand, has never yet been difcovered. This grand arrangement extends vifibly at low water about two hundred yards into the fea ; but how far beyond is uncertain. The breadth of the principal caufeway, which runs out in one continued range of columns, is, in general, from twenty to thirty foot } at one place or two, it may be nearly forty, for a few yards. The higheft part is narroweft at the very foot of the impending clift*, whence the whole projedls, and where, for four or five yards, it is not above ten or fifteen foot wide. The columns of this part incline from a per- pendicular a little to the weftward; forming a floprf •n Drumbof, 'O thorifiiiij :umferenct. "cal monu- the fouih I and on ' (own ii Ncagh, on ich it has a larJiamenf. borough, annel. Jt Tpacious, rong caflle converc- tRELAND.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 569 we ir- on (heir (ops, by the very unequal height of the co- lumn! on the two fidei. At the didance of fix yards from the clilf, the caufeway obtains a perpendicular pofition, and lowering in iti height, v/idens to be- tween twenty- and thirty footi which part, for near- ly a hundred yards, is always above water. The topi of the columns for this length being nearly of an equal height, form a parade, rather inclining to the water's edge. But from the high Water mark, as it is waflied by the furge on every return of the tide, the platform lowers confiderably, and becomes more and more uneven, fo ti not to be walked on without the greateft precaution. At the diftancc of a hundred and fifty yards from the cliiF, it turns a little to the call for twenty or thirty yards, and then finks into the Tea. The figure of the columns is in general pentago- nal { but a few of them are of three, four, fix, and feven fides. What it remarkable, however, there are not to be found in many thoufands, two columns, that either have their fides equal among themfelves, or the figures of which are exaflly alike. The compofition of thofe columus or pillars is no Icfs worthy the attention of > curious fpeiftator. They are not of one folid Hone in an uptight pofition, but confift of feveral fhort pieces, curioudy joined, not with flat furfaces, but articulated into each other i the one end having a cavity, into which (he convex end of the oppofite is exaAly fitted. This conflruc- tion it not vifible except by disjoining the two Hones, The depth of the cavity and its correfponding con- vexity is generally about three or four inches. What ia farther remarkable, thofe parts are not conformed to the external angular figure of the column, but ex- 9.(\\y round] and as large as the diameter of the co- lumn will admit. The rnglet of the columns being in general extremely unequal, the circular edge of the joint is feldom coincident with more than two or three fide* of the pentagon ; and from the edge of the circular part of the joint, to the exterior fides and angles, they are quite plain. It is likewife remark- hble, (hat the articulations of thofe joints are fre- quently inverted } in fome the cavity is upwards, in others the reverfe. The length alfo of the flones, from joint to joint, is various. In general, they arc from eighteen to twenty-four inches long j being for the moft part longer toward the bottom of the columns than near the top, and the articulation of the joints fomewhat deeper. The thicknefs of the co- lumns is as difl^erent as their length and figure. In general, they are from fifteen to twenty, and twenty four inches diameter. No traces of uniformity or defign are difcoverable throughout the whole combi- nation, except in the mechanifm of the joint ; nei - ther are there any marks of a finifhing, either in height, length, or breadth. If there be here and there a fmooih top to any of the columns above wa- ter, there are others juft by, of equal height, which are more or Icfs convex or concave. This fhows that they were originally joined to pieces, which have been wafhed away, or by other means removed, Notwithflanding the univerfat dilEmilitude of the columns, both ai to figure and diameter, and though they be perfeflly diftinft from top to bottom, yet the whole arrangement is fo clearly cemented at all points, th.it hardly a knife can be introduced between them, either on the fides or angles. The clifl^s at a great diOance, efpectally in the bay to the eaftward, exhibit, at many places, the fame kind of columns, figured and jointed in all re- fpe£ls like thofe of the grand caufeway. Sor : of them are feen near the top of the clifF, which, in general, in thofe bays, to the eaft and wed of the caufeway, is near three hundred foot high j others appear about mjdway, and at different elevations from the firand. A confiderable range of theih may alfo be obferved at the bottom of the bay to the eaftwarJ, where they appear in a perpendicular pofition, fuf- taining a cliff of diflVrent firata of earth, clay, rock, &c, to the height of a hundred and fifty foot or more above them. Some of thofe columns are between thirty and forty foot high, from their apparent bafe ; the longeft filling the centre of the group, and di- minilhingon either hand. This arrangement is called The Organs, from a fancied rude likenefs to the tubes of that inffrument. The fubftance of that part of the cli/f which pio- je£ls to the point, between the two bays on the eaft; and weft fide of the caufeway, feems to be compofed of the fame kind of materials. For, befides the many pieces that are feen on the fides of the clifF, particularly the eaftern, there Is at the very point of it, and direflly above the narrow and higheft part of the caufeway, a long colleflion of them, the tops of whir'i juft appearing beyond the floping bank, plaiil- ly fhew them to be in an oblique pofition. Their tops likewife are of mixed furfaces, convex and con- cave, and the columns appear to have been removed by the rifing or falling of the cliff, from a perpendi- cular, to their prefent flanting direflion. Various conjeflures have been formed concerning this celebrated obje£t, the origin of which has by fome been attributed to art, while thofe who think more juftly, confider it as a natural produfiion. The opinion of the latter is confirmed by the difcovery of fimilar maflet of (lone in other parts of the world. Mr Banks informs us, that a (lupendous colle£)ion of thofe bafaltic pillars may be feen in the ifland of StafFa, one of the Hebrides ; and that Boo-fhala, another of the Hebrides, is entirely compofed of them, without any covering of earth. Numerous and extenfive groups of the fame ftone, we are told by Mr. Demareft, are fpread over the French provinces of Auvergne and Velayj and Mr, Strange has defcribed two ranges which he lately dif- covered in the Venetian territory. The ftruflure, fituation, and other properties of all thofe different colleAions, fufficiently correfponding, leave no room to quefiion their common affinity to each other. So that the only doubt remaining is, by what mechanifm or operations of nature, a phenomenon fo fingulat and a4oni(hing has been produced. The moft plauf- ible theory feems to be, that it is a crjftalljzation, or concretion of a very particular kind, and of vol* cini« 570 H M R N [EOROPI. canic origin. We find that nature hai moulded a great variety of falti and cryftalline rubaaiicei into prifsiatic figurei, but they are, it ii true, of minute dimenrioni. The bafaltic columns are of incom* parably great magnitude j they are irtcgular polygon! i and the feveral pieces which compere their fliafta, are held firmly together by m infertion of the cndi, different from every other known procefs of nature refpe£ling inanimate bodies, but fomewbat refembling the general firu£lure of animali. LONDONDERRY. The county of Londonderry ii bounded on the eafl by Antrim ; on the fouth by Tyrone { on the wefl by Donegal } and on the north by the ocean i ex- tending in length thirty>two miles, and in breidth thirty. It contains tbirtyeight parifhes, three boroughs, and fends eight members to parliament. The chief town is Londonderry, fituated near the mouth of the river Mourn, a few miles fouth of the lake or bay of Loughfoyle. It is the cleaneft and bed built town of any in Ireland. It confiAs chiefly of two ftreets, that crofs each other ; in the centre of which ftands the exchange. This town is fur- rounded with walls, and is memorable for the fiege it fuftained during thirteen weeks, in the reign of king William. The whole ground plot of this city and its liber- ties belongs to the corporation of London ; from which circumllance it has obtained in our maps the name of Londonderry, but among the natives it is commonly called by its original name of Drrry. TYRONE. The county of Tyrone is bounded on the eaft by Armagh and Lough- Ncagh j on the fouth by Mo- naghan and Fermanagh j on the weft by Donegall ; and on the north by Londonderry; extending in length forty-fix miles, and in breadth thirty. fcven. It con- tains thirty parifhes, four boroughs, and fends ten members to parliament. The chief town is Omagh. DONEGALL. The county of Donegall is bounded on the eaft by Londonderry and Tyrone j on the fouth by Ferma- nagh i and on the weft and north by the fea j ex- tending in length fixty eight miles, and in breadth forty-four. It contains forty parifhes, five boroughs, and fends twelve members to parliament. The chief town is Donegall, fituated on a bay of the fame name, on the weflern coaft of the kingdom. Here is a good bridge of fix arches, and the ruins of a large caflle. In the midfl of a fmall lake called Derg ; a few miles hence, is St. Patrick's purgatory. At prefent there remains little of this holy place, except the name. Ballyflunnon is a linall town, fituated near ibe fea, with a bridge of fourteen arcl)cs, over a river that runs out of Lough Eine, which a little lower fails down a ridge of roclis, about twelve foot, and at low w»ier forms a very pi£lurcT(|ue cafcadc. It is rendered )'et more fingular and intcrefling by being the principal falmonleap in Ireland. 7'his plies carries on a tolerable trade, and is well inhabited, confidering its fituation among bogs and lakes. FERMANAGH. Fermanagh is bounded on the north by Donnegall and Tyrone j by another part of Tyrone and Mo- naghan on the eaft ; by Cavan and Leitrim on the fouth ; and by another part of Leitrim and the ocean on the well i extending in length thirty-eight miles, and in breadth twcnty-tlirce. It contains nine pa- rifhes, one borough, and fends four (nembcrs to par- liament. The chief town is Innifkillen. Delleck is a fmall village, about Hve miles eaftwatd, on the wcftern extremity of Lough Erne. Frnnt Caftle Caldwell, on the north, is a fine profpefl of the Lough, and its iflands, which are beautifully dlf- perfed in the two lakes, and exceed four hundred. It is not eafy to determine whether the number be greater in fummer or in winter. During the latt;r feafon the water rifcs eight or ten fuot, and tb^a many low i/lands arc oycrfiown, as well as new ones formed, by the water encompalCng rifing grounds. In fummer, when the waters fubftde, thofe head-lands are re- united to the fhores, or to other iflands, and new ones appear. Many of them are of a confider- able fise, well planted with trees, and inhabited. The gteated depth of the lake is about forty yards. This Lough is divided into two parts nearly equal* which arc termed the upper and lower lake ; each about twenty miles long, and nine in the broadcfl part. On a fmall iiland, at the place of their junc- tion, ftands the town of Innifkillen, famous for pro- ducing that brave and gallant regiment of its namft in the wars of king William againft James in Ireland. This is one of the mofl confiderabic inland towns in the kingdom, and likewife the moft beautiful in rc- rpe£l of fituation. It is joined to the i.iain-land by two bridges, one of fix and the other of eight arches. About three miles hence, in the ifland of Devnifk, is the moft perfect round tower in Ireland. It is ex- actly circular, fixty-nine foot high to the conical co- vering at the top, which is fifteen foot in height. The circumference is forty-eight foot, and the thick - nefs of the walls thiee foot five inches. The diame- ter within is nine foot two inches. Befides the door, which is elevated nine foot above the ground, there are feven fquare boles to admit the light. The whole tower is very neatly built with ftones of about a foot fquare, with fcarcely any cement or mortar i and the infide is almoft as fmooth as a gun barrel. Near it are the ruins of an abbey, which was built in the year 1449. THE UROPI. f Ibe fca, wet fallj • and ac It i, 6y being hii phco nhabiteJ, Ci. Irbland.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 57 i THE PROVINCE OFCONNAUGHT. L E I T R I M. Tb« enunty of Leitrim ii bounded on the north by Donegall > on the eaft by Cavan i on the fouth by Rorcommon i and or. the weft by Sligo. The chief town ii Leittim. S L I O O. The county of Sligo is bounded on the caft by Lcitiim } on the fouth by Rufcommon ; on the weft by Mayo | and on the north partly by the fca, and partly by the county of Fermanagh ( extending in length twenty-five milea, ind neatly the fame in breadth. It contain! forty-one parifhei, one bo- rough, which puliament. CHAP. ir. is Sligo, and fends four members to MAYO. The county of Mayo is bounded on the eaft by Sligo s on the fouth by Rofcommon } and on the weft and north by the fea ^ extending in length fixty- two miles, and in breadth fifty-two. It contains fe- venty-three parifties, one borough, vie, Ballinrobr, and fends four members to parliament. ROSCOMMON. The ccunty of Rofcommon is bounded on the north by Leitrim, Sligo and Mayo ; on the call by Long- ford and Mcath ; on the fouth by Gal way i and on the weft by Mayo and another part of Galway i ex- tending in length fifty miles, and in breadth twenty- eight. It contains fifty-nine parifhes, three boroughs, and fends eight members to parliament. The chief town is Rofcommon, which h fortified with a caftle. Near it ftands an ancient moni>.ftery, where is now remaining, in fine Irifli marble, a monument of Fei- detn o Connor, Icing of Connaught, vhodied in 1253. GALWAY. The county of Galway is bounded on the north by Mayo, and part of Rofcommon i on the eaft by another part of Rofcommon, Pieath, and King's county i on the fouth partly by Clare, and partly by th« bay of Galway ; and on the weft by the fea ; ex- tending in length eighty- two miles, and in breadth forty- tv'o. It contains a hundred and thirty-fix pa- riflies, thirteen boroughs, and fends eight members to parliament. The chief town is Galway, ftanding on the bay of the fame n.-tne, in the wcflern ocean, a hundred and ten miles weft of Dublin. It is a good port, and well fituated for foreign trade. CLARE. The county of Clare is bounded on the north by Galway, and Rofcommon } on the eaft by Queen's county, and Tipperary ; on the fouth by Limerick ; on the weft by the fea. The chief town is Knnis. No. f 7. 0/ the nalivti tf Irtland, tltalhi, habitat Itrit, l^e, ' I '■ H E IriOi are in general a large, well made, ftrong, and comely peoplf, but frequently in- dnbnt, and reputed liable tu particular blunders in converfuticn. The common people are fur the r.iaft pirt clothed fo ve y indifferently, that it impiefTct every ftrangcr with a ftrung idea of univerfal poverty: (hues and ftockings ate fcarcely ever found on the feet of children of either fex ; and great numbers of men and women are without them. A change, how- ever, in this refpef), as in moft others, is of late be- come obfervable. Women are oftcner without flioei than men ) and by wafhing their clo.iths no where but in rivers and dreams, the cold, efpccially as ihc-y roaft their legs in their cabbins till they are fire- fpotied, fwclli them to a wonderful flee, which is al- ways attended with a bhclc and blue colour both in young and old. In general they are not ill drcfTed on Sundays and holidays ; and black or dark blue is .ilmoft the univcrfal colour. The cottages of the Irifh, which are called cab - bins, are the moft wretched hovels that can well be conceived. They generally conflft only of one room. Mud kneaded with ftraw is the common material of the Walls, which are feldom above fevcn foot high, and fometimes not more than five or flx. They are about two foot thick ; and the only aperture they contain is a door, which ..'Imits light inftcad of a window, and fhould alfj ferv :' for a chl: ^ ; but they rather keep in tiie fmoak, than allow it to fly olF. This cuftom keeps them warm in winter, but is injurious to the eyes, no Icfs than to the com- plexion of tne women. The roofs of the cabbins are rafters, raifed from the top of the mud walls, and the covering varies in dilFcrent parts. Some are thatched with ftraw, potatoe flalks, or heath, while others are covered only with fods of turf. The furniture of the cabbins is as rude as the architc£lure. In many, it conflfts only of a pot for boiling potatoes, a bit of a table, and one or two broken ftuols. The ufe of beds is not univerfal ; the family lying on ftraw, which is fre- quently Ihared by cows, calves, and pigs. This is a general defcription, but exceptions are numerous. Many of them contain much ufeful furniture, and fome even fuperfluous. In general, the food of the common Irifh is pota- toes and milk. The potatoe bowl being placed on the floor, the whole family flts round it upon their hams, and devour a quantity almoft incredible. The beggar alfo often feats himfclf to it with a hearty welcome ; nor is a fhare of the repaft denied to the hens, turkies, geefc, the dog, the cat, or the cow. No perfon has witnefTed thofe meals without being convinced of the plenty and the chearfulnefs that attend them. There are three races of people in Ireland, fo dif- tinA as to ftrike the leaft attentive traveller, Thofe 7 C are 57* H M O R N (EUROH. trc ih( Spinifti, which are found in Krrry, an pirt of Limerick and Cork*. Th« pcciple of ihi> race are nil, thin, well made, with a lung vilM^r, dark eyci, and long black lank hair. The limc i> not remote when the Spaniardi had a kind ui feiilc mcnl un the coaft of Kerry, which fccmcd to l>t overlooked by governmrni. The Scotch race it in the north, wheie are to be Tound the feaiurci mufl common to that people, with ihcir accent, and many of their cuftom*. In a diOriiH near Dublin, but par- ticularly in the baroniei of Bargic and Forth in the county Of Wexfnrd, the Saxon tongue ii fpoken with out any mixture of the Irifli, and the people have many cuftomi which diAinguifli them from their ncighbouri. The reft of the kingdom ii compofed of mongrels. The Milcflan race of IriO), which may be called native, are fcattcred over the ifland, but chiefly found in Connaught and Munfler. The principal divifloni obfcrvable by a traveller who pafled through the kingdom, without makinj; any rcfidence, would be the people of confiderablc fortune and the mob. The manners and cuDoms uf the former are nearly (he fame with thofe of the fame rank in England. But the circumnancei mod con- fpicuoui in the common With are vivacity, and volu- bility of fpeech. They are infinitely more chearful and lively than the populace in England, and have nothing of that incivility and I'ullen filence fo ufual to the latter. Lazy to an exceft at work, but fo fpiritedly aAive at play, that at hurling, which is the cricket of the common people, they difcover the greateft agility. Their love of fociety is as remark- able as their curiofity is unfatiable i "nor are they left diAinguiflied for hofpitality. Warm friends, and vindiAive enemies, they are inviolable in their fecrefy, and inevitable in their refentment i with fuch a no- tion of honour, that neither threat nor reward would induce them to betray the fecret or perfon of a man, though an oppreflcr, whofe property they would plunder without ceremony. They are hard drinkers, quarrelfome, and addicted to lying, but civil, fub- miflive, and obedient. Dancing is founiverfal among them, that there arc every where itinerant dancing- maflers, to whom the lower people pay fix pence a quarter for tesching their familes. BcfiJcs the Irilh Jig, which they dance with remarkable expieffion, they are taught minuets and country dances, and fome even cotilions. The ancient cuftom of howling at funerals begins now to be difufed. It is a kind of fong, compofed on the actions and polTcffions of the deceafed, which is fung by fome women to no difagreeable tune. At the end of each flanza, a chorus of women and girls raife a melanchoUy howl, which is called the Irifli cry, and fometimes ufed without the fong above men tioned. There are at prefent in Ireland forty-four charter working- fchools, where two thoufand and twenty- five boys and girls are maintained and educated. Thofe fchools are fupported by an annual bounty from his majefty of a thoufand pounds, by a tax upon hawkers ■inJ pedlars, and by fubfcriptiont and legacies. The children adniiilcd arc thofe born of popifli patenii or fuch as would be bred papifti, if neglciSed, and »re of found limbs. Their age muft be from fix to (en. The boys at fixteen, and the giili at fuurtcm tr« apprenticed irtio protcftani families. Five pounds aie given to every pertm educated in tbofit fchools, upon his or her marrying a proteftant. 'i he return of houfes in Ireland forth* year lye^ WAS three hundred aod ninety five thouland four hun* y tu*»: vnMig«t> t ■mong which ii faid lo bt • IpcciM uf (Mtirui, Jif ferrnt from (hoft of ihe Indict in ihur want <>l dnci lit)'i and in ha>lig wcbbid r<-'ct> Thireit no anpvai- •nce uf mincrili of any kind, nor uf any vulcjntici. The harbi u of Smccrcnterg hai good »iuliiit4gc in thirictn faihum water. The flouc hi;rr.tbourt n chiefly a kind of niatblc, wliiih difliilvrj eerily in the marine iC'l. Chile tu the harbour it an ill.iiiil, called AmOcidim Ifliind, where the Dutch ufed tgi merly to boil their whale oil ^ and ihcy llill nluii thither toMnrdi the latter feal'un of the whale fiflu-ry, MufTrn IllaiiJ liit in twelve Jigrco eafl longiiuJr, and eight degrees uf north latitude. It ia nearly of a circular form, about two tniiei in diamatir, with a lake, or \irgc pnnd of water in tbe middle, 'I he ifland i> covered vvnh gravel and linall nonrs, wiiliout the lead vitdure or vej;etation of any kind. Upon it were feen three heart, with a number of wild duikt, gecfe, and f^a-fowl. Seven IflanJs lie in eighty-one degreea twcnty.onc minutri of nnith latituJc, and fecm to be furroundol with ice. Capt.iin Lutwidgc, and another of thr voyagers afcendeJ a high mountain on one of thofr iflindj, whence they commanded a prufpe£l to the eall and noith-c.-ift ten ur twelva leagues, over a conti- nued plain of fmouih ice, bounded only by the horizon They alfo faw land itrctching to the fuuib-eaft, laid down in the Dutch ch.iiis as iflands. This was on the 30th of July, and the weather was then exceed- ingly fine, mild, and clear. Some officers of the lliip vifited an ifland which lay in eighty degrees twcnty-feven minutes of latitude. They here found fetcral large fir-trees lying on the {hore, fixtecn or eighteen I >ot above the level 0/ the fea. Some of thofc trie* n;cafuted fcveniy foot in length, and had K^n torn up by the roots. Othiri. had been cut down with the ax, and were notched for twelve foot lengths. This timber was no ways de caycd, n<. r the ftrokei of the ha;chet in the fraallcfl degiee tf.accd. I'hcrc were likewile fume pipe-fiuie» and wood fafhioned for nfe. The beaeh was formed of old tiiii'-ir, land, ani whale bones. The ifland is about fcven miles lon(,, flat, and formed chiefly of fiones, from eighteen to thirty inchci over, many of them hexagons, and commodioufly placed for walk- ing on. The middle of .he ifland it covered with mofs, fcurvy-gr.^fs, forrel, and a few ranunculul'eii, then in ilu.ver. Two reindeer were feeding on the mofs. The voyagers alfo faw a light- grey coloured fox, and a creature foinewhat larger than a weafel, with (hortears, a long tail, and a fkin fpotted white and black. 1'hc ifl.ind abounds wirh fmall fnipes. Ducks alfo were feen hatching their eggs, and many wild geefe feeding by the water fide, GREENLAND. Greenland, otherwife called Old Greenland, comprehends the vafl tii& of land extending be- tween ihirtern and fifteen drgren 0.' weft longi. ludr, and between fixlv-thic* and eighty degrees of mtrih latitude. It is baund«d en the eiK an4 fuuth by the ocean, and on the well by Hndfun'i ftraioi w'lieh frpaiaie it from America ) but lowardi iht iHiiih ill boundaries are unknown. Tl i« (outtiry, ihoujih extremely birrrn and inhof. pit.it'ie, it not dtfliiuie of iiihahitantt, who are re. pr< IciiMrd to be well made, and of an olive complexion. Their iluMhing eonfifti of the fkint of fca-calvci tacked together with the fmewtof beafit. The wo< men and men drift nearly in the fame manner, each weaiinit a fort of brecchet with many pockets, which they llutV with knives, nrcdlei, yarn, looking glaflci, and Inch uihcr toy»Bi thiy pick up on the fhore after It fliipwreek. They llain theiri facet blue, and tliilr lung hair hangs floating down on their fhouMer^. AIniull iht only implonitnit thry have are bows a,ij arrows, wiih which they can fhoot fifhet as they Iwim 1 and they have boats made of the fea-calt'« iVin, fiitcd to hoM one perfon. Their larger vtf. Ids, however, will accommodate twenty perfons, Ihofe are ma le of wood, covered with whale fkin, •ind lurnifhcd with fails nianuf.idtured from the intef- lines of fifh. Here being no horfei, the natives h.ive their lledk liiawn by brge dogi, which are faid to ' be very tradable. The principal food of the people IS fillt i iind Ihe country yielding no fnflj fpringt, ihcy are forced to ufe melted fnow for drink, Greenland is faid to have been difcorered by th« inhabitantb of Norway, fo early at the eighth cen- tury ; and feemt to have been well known when tbe Daiilfh kings firft became Chriflianij it being men- tioned as in the diocefe of Anogariut, bifliop of Bre- men in the year 835. The ecclefiaflical jurifdiaion of it afterwards devolved upon the bifhop of Dron- thtim, and it was governed by a viceroy appointed by the king of Norway, The revenues of Greenland being appropriated to the fupport of the king of Norway't table, it was death by the law for any perfon to vifit the country without a fpccial iicence j and this prohibition, joined to the extreme rigour of the climate, has conuibutcd to render our information very impetfei9 concerning it. By fome voyagers we are told that the foil pro- duces corn, and by oihcri that bread it wholly "n* iinawn 10 the inhabitants. The kingt of Denmark and Norway have frequently, without fucceft, fitted out fhips for difcovering >e northern parta of thia country, from a fuppofition that they yielded gold^ filvcr, and pnclous (tones ; but their informatioo on thin fubje£l appears to have been ill founded. The only produce derived from Greenland it the whales, which abound on this coafl ; and in this trade the Dutch, as well as the J^ritifli, employ many velTcIs, notwithflanding the Danes have often remonllrated to the States General, concerning the encroachment on their property. With refpeifl to the territory of Greenland, it is of fo little import- ance, that in all probability the acquifition of it will never be difputed, AMERICA. ■ikl/df B ("t/^ Y i^^i^y ('/.^/mff /.n r/r,r/t Pategonia.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. S7i M £ R A. AMERICA, (o fir as it has been traced, ii firuate bc(w;cn filty-eight degrees of fouth, and eighty degreer of north latitude, and between thirty- five and a hundred and forty-five degrees of weft lon- gitude ; but whether it extends beyond thofe limits, towards the north, has not yet been determined by navigators. It is bounded on the eaft by the Atlantic Ocean, which feparates it from Europe and Africa, and on the fouth and weft by the Pacific Ocean, ufually called the South Sea. Its length from fouth to north is computed to be upwards of eight thoufand two hundred miles, and its bieadth in Tome places near three thoufand. This immenfe continent remained entirely unknown to the other p-rts of the world, till it was difcovered by the celebrated Columbus in the end of the fifteenth century. Whence it had obtained its firft inhabitants, is a fubjeA on which various conjedtures have been formed : the moil probable opinion, however, feems to be, that it was peopled from the northern parts cf Afia, with which it has been imagined to communicate. It confifts of two large tra£ls of territory, diflinguiflied by the name of North and South America, which are united by the ifthmus of Darien, in about ten degrees of north lati- tude. The mountains of the Andes, which ftretch from fouth to north along the latter of thofe divifions, at the diftance of fome leagues from the Pacific Ocean, are reputed the higheft in the world. In the northern divifion, the Apalachian mountains run in the fame direAion, almoft from each extremity, but nearer the middle of the conti.'ient. In this quarter of Ame- rica are alfo fevcral lalcc? of great extent t and in both are fome rivers of amazing magnitude. The moft confpicuous in South America are La Plata, and the river of li.? Amazons ; and in North Ame- rica, the Miffifippi, the Ghio, the Delaware, and the St. Lawrence, befides manv others. In delineating this in'..'.,cnfe continent, we ihall begin at Cape Horn, its fouthern extremity, where rvc ciiter the land of Patagonia. PATAGONIA; BEGINNING our furvey i f America at the fouthern extremity, or Cap*. Horn, the firft country that we meet with is Terra del Fuego. This is properly an ifland, but being feparated from Pata- gonia only by the ftraits of Magellan, the breadth of which, in fome parti, is not half a league, it is ufually comprehended under the name of Patagonia, The couiury underftood by this general denomina- tion is bounded on the north by Chili and La Plata, and on all other fides by the ocean. It is fituate be> twcen feventy and eighty five degrees of weft longi- tuJe, and between forty, five and fifty-feven degrees odd minutes, north latitude. I'he country is in ge- No. 48. neral mountainous, and covered with fnow during great part of the year, efpeciully the fouthern divifioi^. On the twenty. firft of Deceniberi 1769, which ii the middle of fummer in thofe parts, the ciew of the En- deavour experienced here fuch exceflivc cold, accom- panied with a great fall of fno-.v, as is unknown even in Norway and Lapland ; and fliows the fallacy of forming fyftematical notions rcfpefiing the tempera- ture of a country from the knowledge of its fituation on the globe. Towards the north, the cl.imate ap- pears to be more favourable to vegetation. Commo- dore B< on informs us, that th; ground was covered with flowers of various kinds, which perfumed the air with their fragrance ; and among them thera were berries almoft innumerable, where the bloflbms had been flied. The grafs was good, and it was in- termixed with a great number of peas in bloflbm. The country, however, produces no corn, and very little fruit, but abounds in fowls .'.nd animal* of various kinds } and on the coaft the feals are very numerous, as are alfo the fea-lions. Mr. Byron aflures us, that on the fides of the river Sedger, near Port Famine, there arc the fineft treei he ever faw ; and he doubts not that they would fup- ply the Britifl) navy with the beft mafts in the world. Some of them are of a great height, and more than eight yards in circumference. Among thofe trees there are innumerable parrots, and other birds of the moft beautiful plumage. The inhabitants of Patagonia are generally of a large ftature and well proportioned. Among the crowd of natives that aflTembled on the fliore, on the arrival of captain Wallis in the Dolphin^ one of them was fix foot feven inches high, feveral more were fix foot five, and fix foot fix inches ; but the greater pa<-t Jieafured from five foot ten to fix foot. They are well made and robuftj but their hand* and feet remarkably fmall. Their complexion is of a dark copper colour, like that of the I.vMans in North America ; but they paint their faces in various forms. The orbit of the eye is in general white, and the other parts of the face are daubed with ho- rizontal ftreaks of red and black. Their apparel confifts only of theflcin of a guanicoe, or feal, thrown over their (houlders, exaftly in the ftate in which it is taken from off the animal ; a piece of the fame (kin being drawn over their feet, and the women wearing a fmall flap as a fubftitute for a fig-leaf. On their heads, the men wear caps of fkins decorated with feathers, but the women wear no other covering than their hair, which in both fexes is .ong and black ; and they adorn themfelve* with rings and bracelets round their arms and necks. The people in general appear to be exceeding ftupid, and, toward* the fouth efpecially, the moft forlrrn of all human beings ; fpending their lives in wandering about the 7 D dreary ! i [ 57* T H E M O R N [America, dreary waftei, where even in fummer the cold is intolerable to ary European conftitution. Their ha- bitations confift of wretched hovels, or wigwanii, made of ftiiks and grafs, which not only admit the wind, but the fnow and the rain { and they are al- moft deftitute of every convenience that is furniflied by the rudeft art. Their diet is chiefly fifli, of which they feem to be provided with thoft of the fliell kind. Their weapons are the bow ana •..:■•', the latter of which is barbed, and well fitted with a point, which '5 made either of glafs or flint. Their langi age is faid for the moft part to be gut tural i and they pronounce fome of their words by a found refembling that which we make to clear the throat. Some words, however, they have, which we are told would be reckoned foft in the more elegant languages of Europe. The ftraits of Magellan, which forms the divifion of Patagonia, were difcovered by Ferdinand Magellan, a PoriKgiiefe, in the fervice of Spain, in ij2o. The Spaniards foon after built forts, and fcnt thither colo hies ; but moft of their people perifhing, they aban doned the country, and no European nation has (ince taken poflTeHion of it. H I I, f^ H I L I is fituate between fcventy.five and eigh ^^ ty-five degrees of ^veft longitude, and between twenty.five and forty-fice degrees of fouth latitude ; being bounded on the fouth by Patagonia, on the weft by the Pacific Ocean, on the north by Peru, and on the eaft by Paraguay, or the country of La Plata, It is in length from north to fouth twelve hundred miles ; and in breadth, in fone places, fix hundred miles, but generally not more than two hundred. The mountains of this country are the Cordilleras, or Andes, otheiwife called (he Sierras Novadas. They run from the province of Quito in the north, to the ftraits of Magellan in the fouth, above a .hou- fand leagues, aud are reputed the highcft mountains in the world. They are generally forty leagues broad, intermixed with a number of habitable valleys, Thir chain of mountains forms two ridges ; the lower f>r the moft part covered with woods, but the higher barren, on account of the excefljve cold, and the fnow which lies on it. The paths> into the moun tains are fo narrow that a fingle mule can fcarce pafs them. The afrent begins near the f:a (hor:, but to reach whac is calUH the top, requires a journey of three or four days, Thofe mountains are paflable only in fummer or in the beginning of winter; and there ar: frightful precipices and deep rivers at the fides of the narrow pafles, which frequently occa fion the lofs both of the travellers and mules. The irkfomenefj of the road, however, is alleviated by the beautiful cafcades, which the water naturally formi in its fall from the rocks and mountiins; and in fome of the val'rys the water fprings np 10 a great height, in the fotir. of jets d'eau, among odoriferous plants and flowers, forming a moft delightful prof- pe£t. In this chain of mountains, are r.xtcrn volcanoes, which fometimes break out with dread- ful e(Fe£)s. The air of Chili is temperate, but variable, and violent hurricanes fn . icntly happen in the fouthern part of the country. The foil is generally fruit- ful, producincr, corn, wine, and almoft all forts of fruit. The chief rivers are, the Salado, or S.'lt River, Copiapo, Guafea, Coquimbo, Gavanuador'., Chiapa, Valparifla, Mapoca, Matile, Italta, Bobio, Imperial, and Baldivia ; all which run from eaft to weft, but falling precipitately from the mountains, are not na> vigable much beyond their mouths. The indigenous animals are, the pecaree, a little, black, fliort legged quadruped, refembling a hog ; the oppoflum, remarkable for a cavity under iis belly, into which its young retire on the apprehen- lion of any danger, or for the convenience of being carried, until they have attained fufRcient ftrength ; the moufe-deer, refembling the red-deer, but al- moft as large as an ox; the armadillo, fo named from its (hell refembling armour; the guanoe of the (hape of a lizar<', but as big as a man's log; the flying fquirrel, v^iih a fmall body and a loofc (kin, which he extends like wings, on which he is buoyed up by the wind for a confidcrable time ; the floth, a creature about the fize of a fpaniel, which feeds on the leaves of trees, but fo flow either in climbing or defcending, that he will be eight or ten minutes in moving one of his legs ; the racoon, refembling a badger; the beavers, which will cut down trees, and make dams acrofs brooks to catch fifli. The fifli on the coafts of the Pacific Octan are chiefly the mantee, which is as large as an ox, and efteemed excellent food ; the paracood, about an ell longj and well tafled ; the gar-fifti, of nearly the fame length, with a (harp bone at the end of his mouth like a fpear. Of thr; tortoifes there are five or fix fpecics, fome valuable for their ficfli, and others for their (liells : the female lays about two hundred eggs in a feafon, which ftie buries in the hot fand, where (he leaves them to hatch. The birds pfCL'liar to thofe parts are the macaw, refembling a parrot, but much larger ; the quam, the curafoe, the cardinal, and the humming bird, all furniflied ivith beautiful plumage. The moft reu-.irkable infeifls are the migua and CO hincal fly : Tnc former of thofe is fo fmall that it cannot eafily be difcerned. It ufually attacks a man's leg, which it often penetrates to a great depth, dcpofiting its eggs, which encreafe to the fize of a pea. If the part be fcratched, it immedi- ately fetters and endangers 'he lofs of the limb. The cochineal fly is bred in a fruit that grows on a flirub about five foot high. When tiie truit opens, thofe infers take wing, and hover a little while over the tree, after which they fall dead on the fliccts that are fprcad to receive them. Among the reptiles is the poifonous ferpent named the rattle.fnake, which gives the traveller notice of his danger from a rattle in its tail. Here Chili.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. m Here arc feveral mines of geld, fil -er, and cop- per, as well as in Peru. Chili is ufually diftlngtiinied into two grand di- vifions, viz. Chili Proper, extending from twenty- five to forty-five degrees of foulh latitude, and Cuyo or Cuito, lying cad of the Andes, between thirty- two and thirty-eight degrees of fouth latitude. The capit.ll of Chili is Sr, Jagu, fiiuate in thirty- four degrees of fouth latitude, in a /ruitful plain, near the ocean, at the mouth of the river Valperifo. It is elegantly built, and has canals cut from the river through the principal (Ireets. It was founded by the celebrated Peter de Valdivia, who reduced this part of Chili to the obedience of Spain, in 1541. Coquimbo is fltuatcd on a river of the fame name; about two miles from the fea, in thirty degrees of fouth latitude } and in thirty-feven degiees of fouth latitude ftands Conception, both which were alfo founded by the fame commander as St. Jago, Baldivia is fituated in forty degrees of fouth lati- tude, on a peni.nfula formed by two river-, which, with the iflands before it, renders the harbours one of the moft commodious in Chili. In the neighbour- hood of this town a great deal of gold dud is to be met with. Other towns of note in this divifion of the coun try are. Imperial, Oforno, Caftro, Copiapo, Guafca, and Angol, all flanding near the fea coaft ; with Villa Rica, fituated upon a lake iifar the foot of the Andes. The chief towns in the province of Cuyo, are, Mendoza, fituate in thirty-fire degrees north lati- tude, in a pafs of the Andes ; St, John de Fronti- era, (landing on the confines of La Plata 5 and Oro- mante or St. Louis, in thirty. fix degrees of fouth latiiude. The inhabitants of Chili are of a middle flature, and firong limbed, with tawny complexions, and long blacic hair. Their features are tolerably good, but for the mod part they appear of a deje£ied coun- tenance ; and like the reft of the Americans, they pull the hair o(F their chins and other parts of their bodies, as loon as it appears, with tweezers or nip- pers made of (hells. Thofe who inhabit the province of Cuyo, betwetn the moi'itains of Anuca and the Atlantic ocean, a.-e of a larger ftature than the na- tives of Chili Proper, and have alfo a darker com* plfxion. The men of Chili Proper wear a loofe garment made o'' the wool of their country (heep, and reach- ing down io their kness, or lower. It has no (Ireves, and not being open longitudinally, is put on as a furplice. They wear a kind of open drawers and doublets, but neither (liirts, (hoes, nor ftockin-s, only a kind of buflcin, or half ftocking on their 'e; s The covering which they ufc on their head is a (lilF hat or cap, cocked up before ; and they fometimes adorn the crown of it with a beautiful plume of fea- thers, dyed wool, or a nofegay of flowers. The habit of the women difFers little from that of the men, only they ufc no covering on their heads, except a kind of cotunet of wool of fcvcral colours. which binds their temples. Their hair is partly cm led and braided, and the reft flows down their bicki to a great length. They wear alfo « fort of fa(h, with which they fwathe their bodies from the middle up- wards, and when they go abroad, throw a cloak or mantle over all. On feftivals their cloaths a ? finer and of more beautiful colours than at other times; and ai they decorate their heads with feathers or flowers, they then alfo adorn their necks with chains of beautiful (hells or precious (tones. The inhabitants of the province of Cuyo are not near fo well cloathed as thofe of Chili Proper. They are contented with leaves to hide their nudities, and inftead of a cloak or mantle, make ufe of the (kins of wild beafts. Their ornaments are fome glittering trifles, which they hang upon their lips, by holes bored through for that purpofe. The inhabitants of Chili, the Spaniards excepted, do not live in towns, but every tribe extends itsfelf on the bank of fome river, their houfes ftanding re- gularly at a diftance from each other. Thofe are flightly built of .wood, and confift of three or four rooms only, which are fo contrived, that they can eafily be taken afunder. Their doors have neither hinges, locks, nor bolts, their furniture being fo mean, though they live in one of the richeft coun- tries in the world, that they fear no robberies. Their beds are the (kins of wild beafts laid upon the floor. A block or a ftone ferves them for a pillow ; and they lay over them a coverlet or two made of 'he wool of their country (heep. Their difhes are made either of wood, or of fome calaba(h or gourd. For boi'mg or ftewing their meat, they make ufe of earthen pots. A rough unhewn block ferves them for a feat, and another of the fame kind for a table. Their lances, fwords, and other arms, are the principal ornaments of their houfes. They feldom remain long in one place, but remove for the convenience of pafturc, fometimes into the higher, and at others to the lower grounds, as bed fuits the feafon of the year ; and for this itinerant liic their houfes, which are portable, and have very little furniture, are well calculated. In the province of Cuyo, fome of the inhabitants live in caves, and others have only a flight tent, made of the (kins of beafts. Along the maritime parts of Chili, the inhabitants, bcfides fruits and vegetables, live much upon fi(h, as well as other animal food. Their common drinic is water ; for though the country produces wine, this article is engrofled by the Spaniards. The ancient form of governmenrin Chili refembled that of the patriarchal, every tribe or family acknow- ledging obedience to its refpe£tive chief, who was al- ways fucceeded either by his eldeft fon or other neareft relation. On the breaking forth of any war, it was ufual to choofe for their leader the man who was moft famous for his courage and military (kill. The firft invafion of Chili by the Spaniards, was in 15351 when Don Oiego de Almagro undertook an expedition againft it, after the reduAion of Cufco, the capital of Peru. In this enterprize he was af- 4 fifted 57« H M R N America.] fifted by the Inca Paulla, who put him in poflenion of fuch parts of the country ai had long been Tub jcAed to the dominion of the Peruvian cmperurs. Almagro aftervards fubdued feme of the more fouthern provincea of Chili, but was obliged to abandon the profecution if his defign, in order to return to Peru, where his prefence became necclTary towards oppof- ing the Pizarros. The next SpaniOi commander that attempted the conqueft of Chili, was Valdivia, or Baldivia, who had ferved in the wars in Italy, and was confidered as an officer of great experience. He entered on this enterprize in the year 1540, and met with licde op- pofuion from the northern part of Chili ; but on ad- vancing farther, he was frequently encountered by the natives. He penetrated, however, the valley of Marocho, which he found extremely fruitful and well peopled. Here he built the city of St. Jago, for the proteflion of which, as well as the gold lands in the neighbourhood, he erefled a cadle. After meeting with a variety of obftacles in his progrefs, he puflied his conquefts fo far as thirty-feven degrees of fouth latitude, where he founded another city in the year 1550, to which he gave the name of Con- ception. Next year he advanced yet farther, and built the city of Imperial, four leagues call of the Pacific Ocean, and forty to the fouthward of Con- ception. Thence marching to the mountains of An dcs, and, fixteen leagues to theeaftward of Imperial, he laid the foundation of another city, which he named Villa Rica, from the richnefs of (he mines in th^ neighbourhood. 7'he rapid fuccefs cf the Spaniards was not n little facilitated by their artillery and fmall arms, the firing of which the Indians at hrft imagined to be real thunder and lightning ; conceiving likcwirr that thofc who difchargcd them were rather gnds than men. What rendered the invaders yet more terrible to the natives was, that both the horfes and men being defended with armour, they fctrnied in great meafure invulnerable. Thofe imprcflions which had been excited by the novelty of the objcds abated however in time, and the Chilcfiai.s recovering from their adonifliment, dc:eiinincd to molcc a bold effort for expelling the enemy ; to which attempt they were farther ilimulated by the tyranny of the Spaniards, who compelled them to dig in the mines. While therefore Baldivia had marched farther fouthward, the Ataveans, one of the braved nations of the Chi- leflan;, and who had oppofed the Spaniards with the greateft fuccefs, entered into a confpiracy againft the European invaders, and made choice of Caupolican for their general. Valdivia receiving intelligence of the intended in- I'uireollDn, returned In great hafte to the valley of Aravca, where thirteen or fourteen thoufanH of the natives were alTembled in arms. An atStion imme- diately cnfued, in which the Spaniards had the ad- vantage, but the Chilefians rallying, and renewing the fight with great obftinacy, the Spanifli army was totally cut fo pieces, and the general Valdivia made prifoner. Various accounts are related of the man* ncr in which he was facriftcd to the refentmcnt of the cafpcraicj Indians. Some atfirm, that they poured melied gold down his throat, defiring him ti> fatisfy himfelf with that metal which he had fo vio< lenily ihiiftcd afccr. 0(hcr« relate, that his btaint were beat out with a club by the hands of a private liidan. It is univerfally admitted, however, that they made trumpets and flutes of his bones, and pre- I'erved his (kull as a memorial uf that impoitdnt I tranfaiStion, in remembrance of which they inftituted public fports and excrcifcs, to be annually obferved in the country. F< dcr the line, enjoys a temperate air. The foil of this province is alfo the moft fruitful, abounding with cattle and corn t *nd, like the two others, af- fording mines of gold, filver, quickfilver, and copper, as well as emeralds and many fpecies of medicinal drugs. Among thofe, one of the moft Valuable, ia the Peruvian bark, which grows on the mountains near the city of Loxa, in five degrees of fouth lati- tude. The plant which yields this excellent medi- cine is about the fiae of a cherry-tree. The leaves are round and indented, and it bears a long reddifll flower, from which arifes a pod with a kernel like an almond. This fpecies of plant grows alfo in the mountains of Poton. The animals in Peru are moftiy of the fame kind with thofe in Chili. One fpecies peculiar to this country is th'; Pacos, a kind of flieep, refembling a camel, and about the fixe ot a ftag, covered with a fort of coarfe wool, and their flefh is held in great efteem. This was the only beaft of burden in Peru, when the Spaniards arrived in the country, and would carry a weight of fixty or feventy poundi. The Vicuna is an animal refembling the Europeaii goat, and in it is found the bezoar ftone, as large as a walnut. Gold is found in every province of Peru, waflied down from the mountains in the rivulets, and is ge- nerally of eighteen or twenty carats.' The capital of the province of Qiiito is a (owri of the fame name, fituate in thirtv minutes of fouth latitude, and in feventy-eight dcgiecs of vreft longi- tude, almoft furrounded by mountains. It is a rich populous city, built after the Spanifh model, having in the centre a great fquare, whence a number of fpacious ftreets diverge iin every fide. A canal runs through the middle of it, over which are feveral bridges. This city has a great tnJe in woollen cloths, fugar, fait, and cattle ; but its chief riches proceed from the gold that is found in the rivers. Here is an 7 E univetfityj THE MODERN [America. aniverfiiy, and th« fee of a bifliop, TuFragin to the archbifliop of Lima. It is alTo the rcfiilence of the governor, and feat of the courts of juAice. Tho' the city be flourifliing, it is however, not healthful, being fubjcA to periodical rains and floods, as all other countries near the equator. This place was the refidence of the former kings of the country, be- fore the arrival of the Spaniards ( and there yet may be feen the ruins of feme of their piiUces, and of the temple of the Sun. In one of the adjacent moun- tains is a volcano, the eruptions of which have often endangered (he city. The other towni in thii province are St. Jago de Puerto Veijo, Guiaquil, Tombcs, Thomebamb-ij, Loxa, Zamora, St. Michael'ii, and Payta. The chief town of the province which lies fouth- ward of the preceding, is Lima, the capital likewifc of Peru. It h fituate in feventy-eight degrees of weft longitude, and in twelve degrees fifteen minutes of fouth latitude, on the banic of the river Lima, fix miles eaft of the Pacific ocean. This city, which is alfo buiit in the Spanifh manner, is rw« miles in length, and near a mile and a half in breadth. The ' - ntral fquare is furrounded on every fide with piazzas ; . d here fland the cathedral, the Viceroy's palace, the trcafury, the town-hall, the armory, and a uni- verfity. There are alfo in the town a great many pa- rochial and conventual chsrchei, with monalleries «nd nunneries of every order, and five or fix large hofpitals. The houfes make but a mean appearance on the outfide. They are generally built with bricks dried in the fun; but many have only clay walls, and they are fcldom more than one flory high. The roofs for the moft part are covered with reeds and mats, but fometimes only • cloth ; one reaibn of which is, that the country is fubje£l to earthquakes, and another, that the fun never heats ihofe roofs, as is the cafe with tiles and flate. Befides, as it never rains on this coaft, they have no occafion to provide againfl that accident ; nor are they ever difturbcd by florms or tempefls. The weather is conflantly ferene, and the beats are much abated by the Tea and land breezes. The dreadful earthquakes, however, to which it is expofed, more than counterbalances the various advantages of its fituation. One terrible inflance of this calamity happened in 1586, and an- other in 1687. At the latter of thofe periods, we are told that the fea retreated fo far from the fhore, that no water was to be feen, and after difappearing a confiderable time, it returned with fuch violence as to carry the fhips into the harbour of Callas, the port of Lima, a league up into the country, overflowing the town and forts of Callas, though fituited on an eminence, and drowning both men and cattle for fifty leagues along the fliore. Another earthquake happened at Lima oh the 17th of Odiobcr, 1746, by which feventy-four churches, fourteen monalleries, fifteen hofpitals, feveral magnificent buildings, and upwaids of a thoufnnd private houfes, were deAroyed. Fiffen hundred perfons pcrifhed in the ruins, with a prodigious treafure, whicii lay ready to be fent to Europe. At the fains time Callas, which flands about four or live miles from it, was fwa'IowcJ irp by the fea, and many fhips in the harbour cnriicd fume leagues over the land, Of fevcn thoui'.ind inha- bitants, only two hundred efcsped. Were it not for thofc terrible difafters, the fituation of Lima would be one of the happieft in the world ; for it aboumls in fruits and other produce of various kinds, and is perhaps the only country between the tropics that af- fords excellent wine. Three hundred and fifty miles eaRwarJ of Lima, in feventy degrees of weiUrn longitude, and in thir- teen degrees odd minutes of fouth latitude, flaaJ:, the city of Cufco, the ancient metropolis of Peru, during the reigns of the Incas. It is built on an eminence in the midfl of a fpacious plain furrounded by mountains. The climite here is exceeding tem- perate and healthful ; and on account of the drynefs of the air, the natives are exempted from mufquctof, and all thofe noxious infe£ls which prove fo troublc- fome in other countries fituated fo near the equator. The principal ftreets of the old town pointed to the four winds, and the houfes were generally built of flone, covered with reeds, or thatched. The chief edifices in it were the temple of the Sun, the palace of the Inca, and the caflle. The firft of thofe ilruc- lures, which was built of hewn flone, is faid to have been extremely magnificent, and in every part lined with plates of gold It was divided into feveral cha- pels, cloyfters, and apartments, in the principal of which, towards the eaft. Rood an image of the Sun, refulgent with gold and precious flones. On each fide were placed the bodies of the deceafed Incas, cu- rioufly embalmed. They were feated on thrones of gold, fupported by pedeflals of the fame mctaf, all looking to the weft, except the Inca Huana Capar, who fat dire£)ly oppufite to the image. The temple had feveral gates covered with gold, the principal of which op<.ned towards the north ; and round the top of the building, on the outfide, was a cornice, a yard deep, confifting of gold plate. Befides the chapel in which ftood the image of the Sun, there were five others of a pyramidal form. One of thofe was dedicated to the Moon, deemed the filler and wife of the Sun. The walls and doori of this building were covered with filver j and vfithin was the image of the Moon, with the reprefentation of a woman's face in the middle of it. She was called the Mama Quilea, or Mother Moon, being reputed the mother of the Incas, as the fun was held to be the father. On either fide of the image were placed the bodies of their deceafed emprelTes, ranged in or- der ; that of Mama Oello, the mother of Huana Capac, fitting with her face towards the Moon. The third chapel was appropriated to Venus, called Chnfca, the Pleiades, and all the other flars, Venus was much efteenied as an attendant on the Sun, and the reft were confidcred in the rank of maids of honour to the Moon. This chapel alfo had it* walls and doors plated with filver. An adjoining chapel was dedicated to Thunder and Lightning, which the natives efteemed not as gods, but as fervants of the Sun ; and thofc were repre- fented Peru.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. iSi Tented by Tome fanciful image or pi£ture. This apart- ment, however, was eniirely lined with gold plates. Another chapel wai dedicated to Iris, or the Rain- bow, as owing its original to the Sun. This alfu was covered with gold, and contained a reprefcnta- tion of the objeift to which it was devoted- There likewife was a chapel equally magnificent, for the ufe of the high-prieds, and the reft of the facred order who were of the blood royal. Here they gave audience to the Sun's votaries, and confulted on the fubjcA of their facrificcs. Though there was no other image worfliipped in this 'emple but that of the Sun, yet it was furniflied with the figures of men, women, and children, and of all kinds of animals, in wrought gold, as large as the life. It being the cudom at every great fcfti- val for the people to prefent gold and filver at the fhrine of their deity, the goldfmitbs belonging to the temple formed the metal into fuch figures as were mod agreeable to the perfon who made the offering ; fo that the number of thofe images increafing annually, and becoming more than fufficient for ornament, they were piled up in large magazines appropriated to that purpofe. Great quantities of the precious metals werealfo formed into the fhape of various utenfils, and depofited in the treafury of the temple. No particular account has been tranfmitted of the palaces of the Incas at Cufco, It appears, however, that they were vaflly large and magnificent. Some of the halls are faid to have been '.wo hundred paces in length, and fifty or fixty in brcidth. The ftones of thofe buildings were generally laid fo clofe to one another that they needed no cement, but in fome of the palaces and temples, for the greater magnificence, they were joined by melted gold or filver ; a circum- flancc which operating upon the avarice of the Spa- niards, prompted them to raze the greater part of thofe edifices, in the hope of finding treafure. The palaces, like the temples, were decorated with the reprefentation of various animals caft in gold ; and on the walls, inftead of tapellry, were the figures of plants and flowers of the fame metal, interfperfed with thofe of ferpents, butterflies, and other infe£ls, all delineated in the mod lively manner. We do not find that chairs were any part of houf- hold furniture among thofe people. The Inca, how- ever, fat on a (tool made of gold, without arms or back i but having a pcdcllal of the fame metal. They ufed no other bedding but carpets made of the wool of their fheep, which alfo ferved them for covering ; and in fome parts of the country they lay in hammocs. The palaces were furniflied with bagnios and cif- terns of gold, and every utenfil in the royal houfe- hold was made of the fame metal ; with which, formed into the (hape of various animals, even the gardens were richly ornamented: The fortrefs of Cufco flood upon the top of the hill on which the city was built, and towards the town Was defended by a perpendicular rock of great height. The flones in the walls on the other fide, confiding of feveral rounds, were fo large that it was impo/fible to conceive how the Indians could ever have hewn them out of the quarry, or tranfported them thiiber. Acoda relates that he mcafured a ftonc in the walls of an Indian cadic, which was thirty- eight foot long, eighteen broad, and fix in thick- nefii. Thtfe however, bore no proportion to the ftonej in the fortrefs of Cufco, noiwithdanding the latter had been dragged by the ftrength of men, ten, twelve, and fifteen leagues over hills and valleys, and the mod difficult ways to that place. The apparent impoflibility of tranfporting luch huge mall'es of rock, without extraordinary knowledge in the fcience of mechanics, might induce us to imagine, that they confided not of one piece, but were formed of feve- ral, joined together by an excellent cement, which the Peruvians are faid to have generally ufed in their buildings, £very nation of this extenfive empire had quarter* afTigned for their refidence in the royal city rf Cufco. The vafTal princes of every province were obliged to fend their eldeft font to court, where they built themi a palace, contiguous to Which all the natives of the fame province, refiding in Cufco, had their houfes. The modern city of Cufco, built by the Spaniards, confids of large fquares furrounded with piazzas,' whence fpacious ftreets extend on every fide, which are crofled by others at right angles. Here is a great number of churches, monaftcries, and nunneries, as well as noble hofpitals, both for Spaniards and In- dians, The principal inhabitants of the town have generally country houfes in the valley of Yuca, one of the mod pleafant fpots in Peru, and which ij now planted with almoft every kind of Indian and European corn and fruit. The other towns in the province of Lima are, Cox- amalea, Guanueo, Truxillo, Pifca, Guamanga, and Ariguipa, The province of Los Charcos comprehends the fouthern part of Peru. The chief town of this dif- tri£t is Potofl, fituate in fixty-four degrees twenty- five minutes of wed longitude, and in twenty degrees forty minutes of fouth latitude, at the foot of the n-ountiin of the fame name, Notwithd^indinc the extreme barrennefs of this country, which hardly af- fords any vegetable produce, the rich filver mines have drawn thither fuch a number of people, that Potofl is become one of the larged and mod popu- lous towns of Peru, Neither is it ill fupplied with provifions, which are brought to the market every werk from the country within thirty or forty leagues round. Several thoufand perfons are condantly em- ployed in digging and refining the filver at this place ; but fo great is the ardor with which the work has been profecuted, that though the hill which contained the filver is of no fmall extent, it is now almod ex- hauded of its treafure, being reduced to little more than a (hell } nnd the .Spaniards ate now in daily fearch of new mines, Porco is fituated ten leagues north-weft of Potofl,' and was confiderable on account of its filver mines before the dilcovery of the latter, Ariea 582 Ariu \m a hundred Icaguei north>we(l of Potofi, and ii tht port town where raof. of the treafure is embarked for Lima. The other towni in th« province of Lot Charcot are Santa CruB, La Paa, Chinquita, Tiagunico, and Killo, or Ylo. Before the arrival of the Spaniardi, every province contained but one great town, the reft being only nean villagei. In each of thofe capital! wai a pa- lace belonging to the governor, or vaRal prince, a temple dedicated to the Sun, and a convent of felefl virgini. There were alfo four royal highways which run through the whole empire, and centered in the market-place of Cufco. On the fide of thofe high- ways were eie&ei magasinei and flore houfet fuffici- cnt to afford proviiioni to all the forces in tho pro- vince. The Indiana had alfo noble aquedu£)s, by which they conveyed water to their great towns and corn-fields, many miles. In the nunneries of Cufco, there were no left than fifteen hundred virgins, all of the blood of the In- cas, or emperors j and in the provincial convents, the nuns were the kindred of the vaflal princet, or of the lordt of the refpeAive provinces. Thofe fe- males, however, were itot intended for the fervice of the temple of the Sun, which they never were per- mitud to enter. The Peruvians are of a middle flaturc. Their complexion is of a deep copper colour, but no blacks were found, even under the equino£)iaI, till the Eu- fopcant imported them into the country. Their hair and eyes are black. They pull up the hair of their beards and other parts by the roots. On the arrival ef the Spaniards feme wore the hair on their heads, but others cut it off. The feveral nations were dif- tinguiflied by their head-dreffes. Some wore large pieces of cotton, wrapped feveral times round, in the manner of turbants : others ufeJ a fingle piece of linen { Tome wore a kind of hats, others caps in the form of a fugar loaf. Several other modes were alfo ufed, but the drefs of each tribe remained inva- riable. They anointed their bodies with oil, or fai, and fome of them alfo ufed paint, like mod of the Americans. Some girt a piece of cotton about their waifts, but the greater part of the people went en- tirely naked. Their chief ornaments were rings and jewels in their ears, which they ftretched to a monftrous fize i and they alfo wore chaint of jewelt and (hells about their ni.cks. The food of the Peruvians, when the Spaniards took j poffeffion of the country, was chiefly maize, or Indian | corn, which they formed into cakes, or fometimet boiled | into a fort of haDy- pudding. Where maize did not grow, they had a fmall grain or feed, produced from a plant refembling fpinnach, which they ufed in the fame manner j and in other parts, their bread was made of the root caffavi. They were likewife accuf- tomed to eat of almoft every fort of vegetable. The Incas and great men of the country being mafterj of all the cattle- and game, the common people feldom tafled any R-li, Once a year, however, a general 7 MODERN [Amehica. hunting was appointed by their princes, at which all the venifon and game that was taken, was dlftti. buted to the populace, Ihis, with the flcfli of the tame cattle, alfo given thrm annually, ihcy prcfcrvcd through the year by f.ihing and ilryiiig it. They only made two meals a Jay, which were ufually between eight and nine in (he morning, and again about fun fet. The common drink of the lower clafs of people was water, but pcrfons of condition often ufed other liquors, in which many were even intemperate. One of their liijuors was made from Indian corn j another from the Maygey tiee j and they made a fort of wine of almoft every fruit, by boiling or infufing it in water. The Peruvians adored the great Creator of heaven and earth, whom they denominated Paca Camar, that intelligence which animated the world. They felJnn built temples or offered facrilices to him, but wor- (hipped him in their hearts. One temple, however, dedicated to TJ/ Mttiniwii Cud, the Spaniards found at their arrival, eredled in a valley, thence named the valley of Paca Camac. The facrifices infti- tu^ed in honour of the Sun confided chiefly of Iambs i befidei which they offered all forts of cattle, fowls, and corn, and even burnt their fined cloths on the altar by way of incenfe. They had alfo drink offering!' made of maize or Indian corn, deeped in water. Nor were thofe oblations the only aiSs of adoration in general ufe among them. When they firft drank after their meals, they dipped the tip of their finger into the cup, and lifting up their eyes with great devotion, gave the Sun thanks for their liquor, before they prcfumed to take a draught of it. Befides the wordiip of the fun, they paid fome kind of veneration to the images of feveral animals and vegetables that had a place in their temples. Thofe were generally the images brought from the conquered nations, where the people worfliippcd all forts of creatures, animate or inanimate ; it being the cufloni, whtn a province was fubdued, to re- move all their idols to the temple of the Sun at Cufco. Kxclufive of the folemnities at every full moon, four grand feftivals were celebrated annually. The firft of thofe called Raymi, was held in the month of June, immediately after the fuminer foldice, and was kepc not only in honour of the Sun, but of their firft In- ca, Manca Capac, and Coya Mama Ocia, his wife and fifler, whom the Incas confidered as their firft parents, defcendcd immediately from the Sun, and fcnc by him into the world to reform and polifti mankind. At this fcllival, all the viceroys, generals, governors, and nobility, were afli^mbled at tiie capital city of Cufco, and the emperor, or Inca, officiated in perfoit as highprieft ; though on other occafions the faccr- dotal funRion was difcharged by the regular pon- tiff, who was ufuully either the uncle or brother of the Inca. The morning of the feftival being come, the Inca, accompanied by his near relations, drawn up in or- der, according to their feniority went barefoot in pra- cefliun, at break of day, to the market-phce, where they remained looking attentively towards the ead. Pbru.] lEmCA. Pbru.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. S93 in expe£laiionof the rlfing fun. The luminary no fooneri vpprared, than they h\\ proftrateon their facet in the moft profound veneration, and univerfally acknow- ledged It to be their god and father, I'he ralTal princes, and nobility, that were not of the biood royal, alTembled in another fquare, and per- formed the like ceremony. Out of a large flock of flieep the priefts then chofe a bUck lamb, which they offered in fncrifice, firll turning itt head towards the cad. From the entrails of the viiHim, on thia oc- caflon, they fuperftitioufly drew prognoftica relating to peace and war, and other public eventi. That the Peruviana believed In the immortality of the foul, appears from the practice of the Incaa, who condantly inculcated to the people, that, on leaving this world, they ftiould enter into a (late of happl- nefs provided for them their god and father the Sun. Before the arrival of the Spaniards In America, the Peruvians were acquainted with fome points of aftro- nomy. They had obferved the various motions of the planet Venus, and the diflfi!rent phafes of the moon. The common people divided the year only by the feafons, but the Incas, who had difcovered tlie annual revolution of the fun, marked out the fummer and winter folllices by high towers, which they ere^cd on the eaft and weft of the city of Cufco. When the fun came to rife direAly oppofite to four of thofe towers, on the raft fide of the city, 4nd to fet againil thofe of the weft, it was then the fum- mer fulftice i and in like manner, when it rofe and ttt againft the other towers, it was the winter folftice. They had alfo erefled marble pillars in the great iowt before the temple of the fun, by which' they dbferved the equinoxes. This obfervation was made under the equator, when the fun being direflly ver- tical, the pillars call no bade. At thofe times they crowned the pillars with garlands of flowers and odo- riferous herbs, and celebrating a feftival, offered to their adored luminary rich prefents of gold and pre- cious ftones. They diftingiiiflied the months by the moon, and their weeks were called quarters of the moon ; but the days of the week they marked only by the ordi- nal numbers, as firft, fe:ond, &c. They were afto- nifbed at the eclipfes of the fun and moon. When the forrtier hid his face, they concluded it was on account of their fins, imagining that this phenome- non portended famine, war and peftilence, or fome other terrible calamity. In a fimtlar ftateof the moon, they apprehended that (he was fick, and when totally obfcured, that (he was dying. At this alarming cri- fis they founded their trumpets, and endeavoured by every kind of noife to roufe the lunar planet from her fuppofed lethargy ; teaching their children to cry out, and call upon Mama Quilla, or Mother Moon, that (he would not die and leave them to perifh. Tlicy made no preJiftions from any of the ftars, but confidercd dteams, and the entraiU of beafts which they oflFered in facrifice, as inftniiJlive obje£ls of divination. When they faw the fun fcf, they ima- No. 48. gined that he plunged into i!.j eenn, to ippeir ntxt morning in the eafl. Among • people wholly void of letters, the fpe- culative elTays of the underOanding mud have been very rude and lmperfc£l. They had however, amon,>; them amentas, or phliofopbers, who delivered moral precepts, and likewife cultivated poetry. Comediet and tragedies compofed by thofe bards were lAed on their feftivals before the king and the royal family, the performers being the great men of the court, and (he principal officers of the army. The amentu alfu compofed fongs and ballads 1 but if we may judgt from the rudenefs of the mufic with which they are faid to have been accompanied, they were far from being agreeable to a polilhed ear. That the Peruvians were not unacquainted with painting and (latuary, appears from the furniture and ornaments of their temples and palaces \ but in all the implements of mechanic arts, they were extremely deficient. Though many goldfmiths were conftantly employed, they had never invented in anvil of any metal, but in its (lead made ufe of a hard Aone. They beat their plate with round pieces of copper in place of hammers { neither had they any files or graving tools, Inftead of bellows for melting their metals, th:y ufed copper pipes, of a yard long, al- moft of the form of a trumpet. Having no tongs to take their heated metal out of the fire, they mada ufe of a (lick or copper bar. Their carpenters had no other tools than hatchets made of copper or flint, nor had learned the ufe of iron, though the country aftbrds mines of that metal, Inftead of nails, they faftened their timber with cords or the tough twigf of trees, A thorn, or a fmall bone, ferved them for a needle, and inftead of thread the finews of ani- mals, or the fibres of fome plant. Their knives were made of flint or copper. According to the tradition of the Peruvians, their anceftors, till five hundred years before the Spartilh invafion, lived in woods and caves, ufed promifcuout copulation, devoured human fle(h, and were fubjeft to no form of government. At length a great legif- lator arofe among them, who called himfcif the def- cendant of (he Sun, to whom he firft ere£ted tem> pies, and inftituicd divine honour. He drew his coun- trymen from their wild abodes, to live in cities, and conform to the laws of more civilized fociety. He was fucceeded by a fcries of princes, diftinguifhed by the title of Incas, the twelfth of whom was named HuaynaCapac, the fatherof Athabalipa. On the arrival of Pizarro, with the Spanifh army in Peru, Athabalipa, who had impriforted his eWrr brother, was found in the city of Quito, at the head of near forty thoufand men, armed with darts and long pikes of gM and filver. Pizarro, by his interpreters, made an overture to treat with Athabalipa, who, after feveral me(rages, accepted the propofal. Previous to an interview, however, the Spanifh general difpatched father Vincent de Val- verda, to harangue the Inca upon the benefits of the Chriftian religion. While this expedient feemed to produce no cfTeA on the mind of the Inca, a tumult arofe, on account of the Spaniards attempting to feize 7 F an *»♦ H M E N Ambrica.} •II idol tdorntd with gold tnd precioui flonti. TUe crofi and breviary being thrown to the ground in lh« confufion, the Spaniaidi becatn* enraged, and ex claiming that thofc holy ihingt were profaned, they immediately fell upon the Indiani, whom they maf- Ucied with incrcilible fury. Pitarro with hit own hand pulled tha Inca ffom hii litter, and made him prifoner. A moft enormoui ranfom wai demanded for the royal captive, which failing to pay, be wai on varioua pretencei condemned to be burnt, but ob- tained the favour to be firft ftrangled, on confenting to be kiptised, and owning himfelf a CbriOian. After the death of Athaballpa, many difputei atofe ■bout the fucceffion, which fell at laft upon Manco Ca|.ae, under whom the Peruvian empire waa totally fiibveried by the Spauiarda. PARAGUA, or LA PLATA. PA R A G U A, or La Plata, ii bounded oi> the fouth by Patagonia, on the weft by Chili and Peru, on the north by the country of the Amaconi, and on the call by Brasil { lying between fifty and feventy-five degree* of weft longitude, and between twelve and thirty>(even degreet of fouth latitude. It it about fifteen hundred milei in length from north to ibuth, and not much inferior in breadth. This country receive! iti name from the great river which run* the whole length of it from north to (buth, and deparatei it nearly into two et^ual parti. It it divided into fix proviocu, vie. La Plata Proper, Tucuman, Uragua, Parana, Guayra, and Paragua Proper. La Plata Proper ii bounded on the north by the river Plata, which here turni to the eaftward ^ on the eaft by the Atlantic Ocean v on the fouth by Patagonia ; and on the weft by the province of Tu- cuman and Chili. The chief town is Buenos Ayret, fituate in Cxty degrees five minutes of weft longitude, and in tbirt^five degrees fifty-five minutes oi* fouth latitude, on the fouth fliorc of the river Plata, about fifty leagues from its mouth. Notwithftanding the diftance from the ocean, the river here is feven leagues broad. This town is a place of confiderable trade, a great part of the trcafures and merchandise of Peru and Chili being conveyed thither down the rivers, and thence exported to Spain. Here are five churches befidca the cathedral, with feveral convents and nun- neries i and .he town is defended by a caftle regu- larly fortified. The two other moft noted towns in this province are, Santa Fe and AiTumption. Wcftward of the preceding, and towards the north, lie* the province of Tucuman, the chief town of which is St. Jago, fituate midway between Potofi and Buenos Ayres, about two hundred and fifty leagues from each. It is a bifhop's fee, and is the feat of an univerfity. A hundred leagues fouth of this town» ftands Cordova, which is alfo the fee of a bifhop. The province of Uragua lies in the fouth-eaft part of the country, on the north of the river Plata. The chief towns are Uragua, fituate in twenty, nine de- gree! of fouth latitude, and La Capia, or Tapia, in thirty-two degrees odd minutes of fouth latitude. The province of Parana lies northward of the pre* ceding, and ha* for its chief towns, Stapoa', fituate in twenty (it vers degrees of fouth latitude i and St. Ignatio, a little farther to the fouth-eaft. In the province of Guayra, northward ol Parana, the chief towoa are, Guayra, fituate in twenty-four degrees of fouth latitude i and 8t. Xavier, lying a hundred leagues farther eaft, Paraguay Proper ii the moft northerly province of the country ( but at yet we are not infoimed of any town that it contains. Several of the river* in this country rife in the mountains i>f Andes, and running fouth-eaft, fall into the great river Paraguay Othera rife in the mountain* which divide La Plata from Braiil, and direAing their courfe fouth-weft, fall likewife into the river Paragua. This great river derives its fource from the lake yarayes, in fifteen degrees of fouth h< titude, and running almoft due fouth unite* its wa- ters with the Uragua. From this place to the At- lantic Ocean, all the united ftreams obtain the name of La Plata. The river properly called the La Plata rife* near the town of that name in Peru, and running fouth- eaft fall* into the Paragua. in twenty-eight degreea of fouth latitude. After which it lofet the name of Plata, and the united ftteam i* called the Paragua, till it join* the river Uragua, when it refume* the name of La Plata, till it reaches the ocean. The third confiderable river is that of Uragua, which rites in the mountains that divide Brasil from this province, ind running almoft due fouth, unites its waters with the Patagua, in thirty-four degree* of fouth latitude ^ before which it is navigable for fhips feveral hundred miles. Out of the fame mountains, northward, rife* the rivei Parana, another very large ftream, which run» ning almoft paullel to the former, falls into the Pa> ragus, in twenty-eight degrees of fouth latitude. The river Salado, fo named from the faltnefs of Its waters, rifiss in the Andes, and tunning fouth-eaft, falls intp the Paragua, in thirty-three degree* of fouth latitude. The Tarcero rifes alfo in the Andes, and run- ning almoft due eaft, falls into the Paragua, in thir- ty-four degree* of fouth latitude. Befide* thofe, there is a number of other rivers which fall into the Paragua, and render the country exceed- ing fertile. The rivers which life within the tropics, particularly La Plata, Paragua, and Parava, overflow their banks annually, like the Nile, and greatly con. tribute to this purpoCe. That part of the country which lies weft of the river Paragua confifts of large plains, extending two or three hundred leagues ; and on the other fide, which borders on Brasil, there is a variety of hilla and valleys, woods and champaign, In the north part of Paragua, which lies within the tropic of Capricorn, they have annually in No- vember Paragua.] GENERAL TRAVELIER. 5i$ vember tnJ December, vcrf hetvjr raini, accom- panicd with (lormt and ienip«fla. At ihii feal'on, all the fljt country ii overflowed | and the nativet Who live not near riven, replenKh their ciftrrni and refetvoiri of water, which I'rrve them during th« re- mainder of the year. The beginning of the rainy fca- fon ii the lime of fowing and planting i and the fair feafun which fucceedi ii their harvcft, Dcfure the arrival of the Spaniard*, the iohabitanti of the plaint lived in tenti or flight hut*, and wan- dered from one part of the country to another, like the nativea of Peru. I'hofe who occupied the terri- tory lying between the river Paragua and Braail, lived moftly in wooda or cavci ) but neither the one nor the other had any town, till they were taught by the fcuropeani to build. The native! are generally of a middle flaiure, and their complexion of a deep olive colour. They have round flat facet, thick legi, large jointi, and Itriing black hair. The common people often go naked, but among thofe of condition, the men wrap • piece of fkin round their middle, which hangi be- low their knera, and they throw a doe-fltin over their fhoulJeri. Round their necki they wear collari of coloured feathers, flicking the fame kind of ornament*, or fifh bonet, in their ear* and chin, which are per- foruted for that purpofe. The women ufe no other covering than a girdle round their waift. On their neck, hand* and arm*, they hang chain* of fifh-bone*, or of mother of pearl, and a triple crown of flraw diftinguifliei the wife of one of their cacique* or petty prince*. When a child i* born they wrap it in a fkin, and immediately give it the brcaft i but this nourifhment ii foon after changed for raw flefli, which the infant i* taught to fuck. At the death of a near relation, the men chop a finger off the left hand, and if a handfome daughter diet, her (kull i* preferved as a drinking cup. Thi* country produce* rice and Indian corn in great plenty, a* well a* European corn and fruit*, which the Spaniard* have introduced. Here alfo are innumerable herd* ot European cattle, vie. horfe*, cow*, fheep, and goat*, which from a few of each fpecie* imported by the Spaniards, have prodigioufly multiplied. Black cattle are often killed merely for the fake of their tongues, hides, and tallow, and their carcafes left a prey to the wild beafls and bird*. A fat ox may be bought for two or three needle*, or a two penny knife j and a horfe for trifles of about two (billings value. The woods abound with deer, wild bears, goats, and fuch flocks of partridges and wild pigeons, that they may be knocked down with a flick. They alfo produce peaches, almonds, figs, and almoft every fort of fruit, in great quantity. Vines thrive fo well in the foil, that were it not for the number of pifmires, which fwarm here, and deftroy the grapes, the vintage would be extremely plentiful. The wine is generally of an agreeable tade, but is apt to four very foon, unlefs it be well limed. The Jefuits have long been in poflVlfion of that 7 pari of the country lying tall of the riv:r Parigua, which they have not only improved, but greatly ei« viliicd the inhabitant*, and taught them the Chrif- lian religion. The method of cultivation which lhid thry art commonly mafttri of fuch wtll-iimcii li- btraliiy, ai effcAualty to prevent the Spanifh govei- ■ori from en<|uirlng into the worth of their poflef- foni. Befidei, their inlueiKe over lh« iiibabiianti ii now become To greati and the country To populoui> that it might prove difficult for the court of Spain to cxaA more than a nominal fubmiffion of them. The Pwlugucfe were the firft Europeana that in> vaded the country of Paragua. In the year 1524, Aleaiui Gucla, by the command of the governor of BrMil, pafltd the mountaina with a fmall parly, and marched crofi the Plata to Peru, where he found a great deal of filver 1 but being attacked by the Inhabitanta on hit return, ko was cut olF with moll of bit men, as well ai another of the Por- tuguefe who had been fent to fecure hii retreat. In 1516, Sebaflian Cabot w»> employed by the Spa- niarda to penetrat* the country. He failed up the river of La Plata, a* far at the place where the I'or- I'uguefe bad been defeated, and there meeting with fh« treafurt that Garcia had polTcfled himfelf of, and which the natWei had left untouched, not know- ing ita value, he returned with hii prise. Imagin- ing the filver he had found was the produce of Pa- ragua, he reprefented the country to be exceeding rich { In coAf'-uence of which opinion feveral gen- tlemen of the ueft families prepared to viflt the coafl, accompanied with two thoufand land forces, befidei fcamen, under the command of Don Peter de Men- dosa. Arriving at the mouth of the river La Plata, in 1535, they built the town of Buenos Ay res, but not without great oppofltion 1 James Mendoza, the commander's brother, with two hundred and fifty men, being killed by the natives. In §553, general Baldivia fent two hundred men from Chili, under the command of Francis de Ac- quire, with whom he pafled the Andes, and penetrat- ing far to the eaftward, built the city of St. Jago. Two years after, John Gomes de Zarita, detached alfo from Chili, built Corduba, and made a conquell lb far as the great river Paragua, Jefuit miflionarica were fent at the fame time to the eaft fide of this ri- ver, with the view of inducing the natives to fubmit to the SpaniOi government, and as a reward for their fcrvice, the country between the river Paragua and Brazil was conferred on thofe fathers, whofe fuccef- fbrs continue to be fovereigns of it at this day. We cannot fuppotie, however, confidently with the inten- tion of this grant, that it was meant to convey to the fkthert any other right than the territorial poflellion of the country, under the implied jurifdi£lion of the Spasifli crown. AMAZONIA. Amasonia, or the country of the Amazons, is fituate between fifty and feventy degrees of weft lon- gitude i and between the equator and fifteen degrees 7 D E R I^ [Amirica. of foulh latitude 1 being bounded on the fouih by La Plata, on the wed by Peru, on the north by the pro- vince of Terra Fitma, and on the ealt by Bratil. With refpeAto the n;tiion of the Amatons, which wai faid to give namt to this territory, it is at prefcnl not to be found, any mora iban the giants and cani> bals mentioned by the firil adventurers ihither. It appeara that thofe various objeAsexifted only in ims- gination, and perhaps were feigned by the natives, to dcicr the Spaniards from penetrating farther into the country. This is generiMy a fiat region, abounding in woods lakes, rivers, bogs, and moraflirs. The chief river, and one of the largeA in the world, is that called the river of Amatons, or the Orellana, which it form- ed by two large rivers, the one rifing In the province of Quito, a little fouth of the equator, in fcveniy three degrees of weft longitude, and the other, named Xauxi, rifing in the lake of Bouibon, near the An- des, in ten degrees of fouth latitude. I'hufe two ri« vers uniting on the confines of Peru and Amazonia, in three degrees odd minutes of fouth latitude, .iflrume the name of Amazon 1 whence running eaftward up- ward of two hundred miles, and afterwards inclining to the north, they fkll into the Atlantic Ocean by eighty-four channels, which in the rainy fcafon over* flow the adjacent country. Refides the two ftreama mentioned, a multitude of others, both on the north and foulh fide, contribute to the formation of this extraordinary river. As it runs almoft acrofs the broadeft part of South America, it is computed to be between four and five thoufind miles in length, including all its windings. Its channel from Junta de los Reyot, about fixty degrees from its head, to the river Maranhon, is from one to two leagues broad ; it then widens from tliree to four, and becomes gradually broader as it approaches the ocean. Between the places Inft mentioned, its depth is from five to ten fathom ; but from Maran- hon to Rio Negro, it increafes to twenty fathom ; after which it is fometlmes thirty, and fometimes fifty fathoms, or more, till it comes near the end of its courfe. It has no fand banks, nor does the fl)ore (helve fo as to render it dangerous for vemis. Tlic manctu and tortoife abound both upon the banks of this and the other rivers ; and the fifiiermen muft be upon their guard againft the crocodiles, alligators, and water ferpenle, which alfo fwarm here. The air, as in the countries under the fame parallel, is obferved to be ne. rly as cool under the equator as about the tropics, on account of the rains continuing longer, and the flcy in that feafon being clouded. Befides, an eafterly wind fets from the Atlantic up the river, fo ftrong that veiTels are carried by it againft the ftream. The produce of the country is Indian corn, and the cafTavi root, of which they make flour and bread i tobacco, cotton, fugar, rarfaparilla, yams, potatoes, and other roots. They have alfo plenty of vcnifon, fiftl, and fowl. Among the latter are vaft flocks of parrots, of all colours, the flefh of which firves for food, and the feathers for ornament. All Brazil.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 587 It «!*' ir rfU «» J» J^ .tU JJ .y jA*V^^^U"»J Z«iU«» \ n JSW^v JSmft /rvnt Zcndm both polygamy and concubinage. The country affbrdi neither gold nor filver mines, only a fmall quantity of the former it found in the rivuleti which fall into the Amason near itt fourcci in Peru. While the Spaniards imagined that it con- tained ihofe mrtali, they made great effiorti from Peru to reduce thii territory to fubjeAion, till being at length undeceived, they abandoned the deHgn. B R Z I T} R A Z I L is fituate between thirty-five and fixty •*-* degrees of weft longitude, and between the equa- tor and thIity-Ave degrees of fouth latitude ; being bounded on the north by the river Amazon and the Atlantic Ocean ; -on the ead by the fame ocean \ on the fouth by Paragua, or La Plata ; and on the weft, partly by Paragua, and partly bv the country of the AinaEons. No. 49. iieragippe, Babua, or the Hvj of All E I'nts, nhrni, Porto Seguro, and Spirito SanAo. Tlie fouth d'vi- fion contains Rio Janeiro, Si. Vincent, and Del Rey. The chief rivers are, Siara, which runs from th« fouth- weft to the north eaft, and falls irto the Allan- tic Ocean, in four degrees odd minutes uf fouth la- titude, near the town of the fame name ; Rio Grande, which runt from weft 10 eaft, and falls likewife into the Atlantic Ocean in three degreet odd minutes of fouth latitude I Paraiba, running in the fame direc- tion, in fix degrees odd minutes of fouth latitude { Tamara, running parallel to the preceding 1 Rio Real, which falls into the fea a little north of the Bay of All Saints t Rio St. Antonio, difcharging itfelf into the ocean in fixteen degrees of fouth latitude ; Ilbeos, running parallel to the former, in fifteen degrees fouth latitude ; Rio Dolce, in twenty degrees of fouth latitude ; with the river of Crocodiles, the Ale- qua, St. Michael, Partba, and Rio Janeiro t to 7 G which J II ijm ^^1 i" \ '1 fl \ ' Bif su THE MODEftiil [America, tl W il tl M Ml O^'l i ^(•■•'•■k, ^i r < I S,^'' \ . \ A .,^< .>' •f •A -A Two years after, John Uomex de :£arita, detached alfo from Chili» built Cokduba, and made a conquefl ib far as the great river Paragua, Jefuit miflionaries wersfeiit at the fame time to the eaft fide of this ri- ver, with the view of inducing the natives to fubmit to the Spaniflt government, and as a reward for their fervice, the country between the river Paragua and Brazil was conferred on thofe fathers, w:iofe fuccef- fbrs continue to be fovereigns of it at this day. We cannot fuppofe, however, confidently with the inten- tion of this grant, that it was meant to convey to the fkthers any other right than the territorial pofleflion of the country, under the implied jurifdiAion of the Spaaifh crown. AMAZONIA. Amazon!*, or the country of the Amazons, is fituate betvipven itfty and feventy degrees of weft lon- gitude J and between the equator and fifteen degrees 7 courfe. It has no fand banks, nor does the fliore (helve fo as to render it dangerous for veni'is. Tlie manctu and tortoife abound both upon the banlcs of this and the other rivers ; and the iifliermen muft be upon their guard againft the crocodiles, alligators, and water ferpentt, which alfo fwarm here. The air, as in the countries under the fame parallel, is obferved to be nearly as cool under the equator as about the tropics, on account of the rains continuing longer, and the fky in that feafon being clouded. Befldes, an eafterly wind fets from the Atlantic up the river, fo ftrong that veflels are carried by it againft the ftream. The produce of the country is Indian corn, and the calTavi root, of which they make liout and bicad j tobacco, cotton, fugar, farfaparilla, yams, potatoes, and other roots. They have alfo plenty of vcnifon, fi(h, and fowl. Among the latter are vaft flocks of parrots, of all colours, the flefh of which firves for food, and the feathers for ornament. All Brazil.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 587 All the trees here are ever-green: j ind frii'ti, flowers, and herbage are in perfe£tion all the year round. The principal fruits are cocoa nuts, ana- nas or pine apples, guavas, bananas, and fuch others as are uTually found between the tropics. The foreft and timber trees are cedar, Brasil wood, oak, ebony, logwood, irun-wood, fo called from its weight and hardnefs, the cancla, arid feveral forts of dy- ing wood. The natives are of the common (lature, with good features, a copper complexion, blarU eyci and hair. It is computed that there are of them about a hun- dred and fifty different tribes or nations, and the vil- lages are fo numerous as to be within call of one another. Among thofe the Homagues, a people near the head of the river, are famous for their cotton manufadutcs ; the Jurines, who live between five and ten degrees of latitude, for their joiners works ; ■nd the VVrofiiTarei for their earthen ware. The To- pinambes, who inhabit a large Ifland in the river, are remarkable for their flrength. Some of thofe nations frequently make war upon each other. Their armour confifts of datts, javelins, bows and arrows, and they wear targets of cane, or fiOi-fkin. They make flaves of their prifoners, whom they otherwife ufe very well. Every tribe is g6verned by it* refpe£live chief or king, the mark* of whofe dignity are a crown of par- (ot* feathers, * chain of lions teeth or claws bung round hi* neck, or girt about hi* waift, and a wooden fword, which he carrie* in his hand. Moft of thofe nations, except the Homagues, go naked. The men thruft piece* of cane through their cars and under- lips, as well as through the fkin of the pudenda. At the griftle of their nofes they alfo kang glaf* beads, which wag to and fro when they fpeak. They are fuch flcilful markfmen, that they will (hoot filh as they fwim | and what they catch they eat without either bread or fait. They worOiip images, which they always carry with them on their expeditions ; but they neither have temples, nor any oroer of priefts j and permit both polygamy and concubinage. The oiuniry affords neither gold nor filver mines, only a fmall quantity of the former is found in the rivulets which fall into the Amazon near its fources in Peru. While the Spaniards imagined i*)at it con- tained thofe metals, they made great effcrts fropr. Peru to reduce this territory to fubjeAion, ti!l being ' .'* length undeceived, they abandoned the deflgn. B R Z I L. T} R A Z I L is fituate between thirty-five and fixty ^-^ degrees of weft longitude, and between the equa- tor and thirty-five degrees of fouth latitude ; being bounded on the north by the river Amaaon and the Atlantic Ocean ; -on the eaft by the fame ocean i on the fouth by Paragua, or La Plata ; and on the weft, partly by Paragua, and partly bv the country of the i^inazons. No. 49. The fea coafl is generally flat, from north to fouth) it is about three hundred and fevcnty-five leagues, intermixed with woods and favannahs, or meadow grounds ; but the inland part of the country is moun- tainous. Towards the weft in particular, on the con- fines of the Spani.li territories, there is a long chain of mountains, in wiiich are fome of the richeft mines in Amvirica. Here alfo are feveral exienfive lakes, whence ilTue innumerable rivers, which either fall into the rivers Amazon and La Plata, or, running crofs the country fron weft to eaft, difcharge themfelves into the Atlantic Ocer.n ; the latter of which is of great ufe to the Portuguefe in turning their fugar mills. The north part of Brazil lying near the equator, the lovi' lands are annually flooded, as in other coun- fies fituated under the fame parallels s but in the .outherr provinces, the air is temperate, and con- ftintly refrelhed by fe» breezes, or the winds from the weftern mountains It is obfervable, that the winds and feafons are the very reverfe here, to what they are in other parts of the world in the fame latitudes. For whereas in other places fouth of the equino£lial, the dry feafon comes on when the fun goes to the northward of the equator, and the wet feafon begins when the fun re- turns to the fnuthward { here the wet feafon begins in April, when rhe fouth-eaft winds fet in with vio« lent tornadoes, thunder, and lightning : and in September, when the wind fhifts to the north-eaft, introduces a clear fky and fair weather } and this ia the time of their fugar harveft. Only the two winds mentioned blow upon this coaft, viz. the fou'.h-eaft from April to September, and tha north-eaft from September to April again. But thirty or forty lea^'ues out at fea, they meet with the con- ftant trade-wind, which blows ir, the Atlantic Ocean all the year round, from the eaftward, with very little variation, Brazil is divided into fixteen captainfliips or pro- vinces. In the north are »hofe of PaWa, Marignan, Siara, Petagnes, Rio Grande, Paytaba, Tamara, and Pernamboco, The middle divifion comprehend* Seragippe, Babua, or the Bay of All Saints, Ilheos, Porto Seguro, and Spirito Sanfio, The fouth divi- fion contains Rio Janeiro, St Vincent, and Del Rey. Thr i.hief rivers are, Siara, which runs from th« lou'h-weft to the north eaft, and falls into the Atlan- tic Ocean, in four degrees odd minutes uf fouth la- titude, I ear the town of the fame name ; Rio Grande, which runs from weft to eaft, and falls likewlfe into the Atlantic Ocean in three degrees odd minuteti of fouth latitude i Paraiba, running in the fame direc- tion, in fix degrees odd minutes of fouth latitude ; Tamara, running parallel to the preceding ; Rio Real, which falls into the fea a little north of the Bay of All Saints { Rio St. Antonio, difcharging itfelf into the ocean in fixteen degrees of fouth latitude ; Ilheos, running parallel to the former, in fifteen degree* fouth latitude } Rio Dolce, in twenty degrees of fouth latitule ; with the river of Crocodiles, the At«- qua, St, Michael, Pariba, and Rio Janeiro i to 1 G which 588 THE M ODE R N [America. Terra which may be added the river Plau« on the fuuthern boundary of Brazil. The chief towns in the province of Paria arc, Paria, or Belem, fituate near the mouth of the river Amazon; and Corufla, about fifty leagues fouth- weft of the former. The capital of IVlarignan is St. Lewis de Marignan, fituaie in a fine bay, formed by the mouths of three great rivers. The capital of Siara bears the fame name with the province, and is fitu- ated at the mouth of the Siara. The chief town of Rio Grande is Tiguares, lying on the banks of the river Grande ; that of Paraiba is of its own name, and fituaie on the river Paraiba ; and the chief town of Timaia has alfo a cognominal defignation. 'J'lic chief town of Pcrnambuco is likcwifc of the fame name, fituate on a peninfula in feven degrees thiriy minutes of fouth latitude. This was the capital of all the feltlements which the Dutch formerly pof- fefled in Brazil, and was taken from them by the Portugueze in 1647. The chief town in the capiain- fliip of Bahia de Todos Santos, or the Bay of All Saints, is St. Salvador, fituated on a hill above the harbour, or Bay of All Saints, in thirteen degrees of fouth latitude. This city is the capital of the whole country, a diftinflion to which it is entitled, not only by the extent and elegance of its buildings, but likewife by its riches and trade. The harbour of St. Salvador is capalle of receiving ihips of the greateft burthen, and the entrance is guarded by a ftrong fort, called St, Antoniu. It is alfo commanded by other fmall forts, one of which is built upon a rock, about half a mile from the fliore, Clofe by the fort all (hips that anchor here are obliged to pafs, and they muft likewife ride within half a mile of it at fartheft. Another fort {lands upon the fame hill with the town, and fron:s the harbour. The town confifts of about two thcufand houfes, which are generally two or three ftories high, built with (tone, and covered with pan-tiles; many of them being likewife furnifhed with elegant balconies. The principal ftreets are large, and all either paved or pitchci; with fmall (tones. There are alfo parades in the mod eminent places of the town, and feveral gardens within it, as well as in the environs, well ftored with fruit-trees, flowers, and all forts of efcu lent vegetables. Here are fcvcral churches, chapels, hofpitals, and monafterics, with one nunnery. There are four hundred foldiers conftantly in garrifon, who are de- cently clad in browit linen, which in thofe hot coun- tries is far preferable to woollen. The merchants here are chiefly Portuguefc, and for the moft part reputed rich. The principal com- I fix miles from the coaft, in 20 degrees odd minutes modities which the European (hips bring thither arc : of fouth latitude. linen-cloths, both coarfe and fine, fome woollens, I The capital of Rio Janeiro is St. Scbaftian, filu- hats, (lockings, both filk and thread, bifcuit, wheat \ atcd o.-, the river Rio Janeiro, two leagues from its flour, wine, oil, olives, butter, chcefe, &c. They I mouth, in 2 j degrees of fouth latitude, likewife import iron, and all forts of iron tools, and | The pr.ncipal towns in the captainfhip of St Vin- pewter veflcls, lookingglafles, beads, and other toys. | cent are St. Vincent, fituated on a fine bay, in 74 The exports from St. Salvador are chiefly fugar, degrees odd niiiiuti-s of fouth latitude, near which and tobacco, either in roll or InufF; befiJes which have lauly been difcovered geld fands ; St. Paul, a 7. hundred :hcy fend abroad raw hides, tallow, and feveral funs of dying wood. It is remarked of the fugar, that beijii; icliiicd with clay, it is m':.h better than what we bring home from our plantations. The European (hips commonly arrive here iji Fe- bruary or March, for the moft part by quick paf. (ages, finding at that time of the year biilk gales to bring ilicm to the line, little trouble in crolTing it, and afterwards call- north-eaft winus which waft them expeditioufly thither. I'hey ufually quit the port on ■ heir return about the end of May, or in June. 'J'hc fmall craft belonjjing to the town are chiefly employed in carrying European goods from Uahia, the centre of the Brazilian trade, to other places 011 tlie coafl, bringing back thither fugar, tobacco, lie, I'hey are manned nioftly wiih negro flavcs, wlio, ahout Chriflnias, are employed in whale-killing, a fmall fpccies of this fi(h being very frequent upon (he coall. 1 he fat of them ii boiled to oil, and the lean is eaten by flaves and poor people, Thofe t)iat ftiike them have their licence for it of the king, who is faid to receive by this article thirty thoufand dollar* a year. The negro flavcs at :his place are fo numerous, that they conflitute the greater part of the inhabi- tants, there hardly being a family of any condition that has not fome of both fexes. The .icher fort, befides thofe whom they keep for fervile work in their houfes, have alfo men flaves, who either run at their horfes fides, when they ride out, or carry them on their (boulders, when they make (liort vifits neai' home. The vehicle for this purpofe is a large cot- ton hammock hung on a bamboo about twelve or fourteen feet long, by which it is carried on the (liouldcrs of two negroes. The hammock being co- vered with a curtain, the perfon who is carried may be concealed, if he pleafes ; but they generally have a ptide in being obferved in this fituation, and there- fore not only often falute one another from tiieir hammocks, but likewife hold long conferences in the ftreets ; the vehicle refling all the while upon two poles, which the flaves alfo carry for the pur- pofe. The chief town in the province of Ilheos is of the fame name, fituated on a pronontory, at the mo'ith of a cngnoniinal river, and i.'> confidrrabic (or its fu- gar mills. The chief towns in Porto Seguro are Porto Sc- guro, feaied on a rock near the coaft, in 17 degrees of fouth latitude ; Santa Cruz, three leagues to the fouthwarJ, and Sania Maria, a little farther. The chief town in Spirito bears the fame name, and is fituated alfo on a cognominal river, twenty- Terra Fir' ja.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. hundred miles north-wefl of the former, and Santo;, fuiiated north of St. Vincent, on the fame hay. 1 . the province of Del Rey is fituated another town named St. Salvador ; and feveral forts have been ere^ed on the north fide of the river Plata, for the defence of the Portuguefe frontiers againfi the Spaniards, who occupy the other fide of the river. The perfons, habits, and cultoms of the Indians in Brazil, as well as the produce of the country, animal, vegetable, and mineral, rrfemble fu much thofe of Peru and La Plata, lying under the fame parallel, that they require no particular defcription. Brazil, however, abounds more in gold than ,-iny of the Spanifli provinces; as well as in diamonds, eme- ralds, and other precious (tones. To mark their age the Brazilians lay by a chefnut for every year j and they compute the revolution of this period by the rife of a certain ftar, called Tolcu, Portuguefe, who remained in Braz'l almoft without a rival till the year 1623. The latter being at this time under the dominion of the king of Spain, with whom the United Provinces were at war, the Dutch Well-India company fitted out a (irong fleet with a good body of land forces on board, with orders to fail fur Brazil, where they attacked and took the city (if St, S.lvador with very little lofs. But the king of Spain fending thither a itrong armament in the year 1625, recovered the city, and drove the Dutch ouc of (he country. The Hollanders, however, conti- nued to fend f(]uadruns to the coaft of Brazil every year, where they greatly harrafled the Portuguefe (cttlements, and took many prizes. In 1629, mak- ing a dclcent near Olinda, they made thcmfclvcs maflers of that city, vviih the fortrefs of the Receif, and being joined by fo:ne nations of the Indians, at length poinni'd tbemfelves of the whole province of or the Rain Star, which appears in the month of j Pcrnambuco, where they ercfied many fort* The May. government of this new .lequifitiun was conferred on Count Maurice of Naflau, who remained in th,-it charafler from the year 1637 to 1644, during which time he deprived the I-jrtuguefe of three more of their northern provinces. But the Dutch Weft- India com- pany not fupplying him with fuch a number of forces as he judged necellary to maintain the conqueds h"; had made, he returned to Holland in difguft, in the year 1644, from which period the Dutch affairs in Brazil gradually declined, till the fubjc£ts of that nation were entirely expelled the country in the year 1654. The Dutch, hov'ever, perfevcring in their pre- tPnfions to Brazil, and committing continu^il depre* • I itions on the Portuguefe at fea, the latter agreed, at a treaty of peace made between the king of Por- tugal and the States-General, by the mediation of England, in the year 1661, to pay the Dutch eighty tuns of gold, in confiJeration of their relinquilhing all intercft in Brazil ; fince which time the Portu- guefe have reiTiaincd in the peaceable polTeinon of the country. :i I li : ■'■':-v''! :' .T u:, TERRA FIRM A. The inhabitants of the inland parts hardly know any thing of religion, or a Supreme Being ; but they have an obfcure tradition of the general deluge, and are acquainted with the do£irine of a future ftate. They believe that the fouls do not die with the bodies, but are tranflated to pleafant regions, where thsy en- joy perpetual happinefs. This ftate of felicity, how- ever, is confined to thofe perfons who have performed meritorious a£iions ; all others they fu, pofe to be tor- mented by devili, whom they diftinguifli by various name*. I'hey are much afraid of apparitions, in the exiftence of which they firmly believe ; and there is a nation, called Petiguaras, accounted fo fkilful in forcery, that they can bewitch their enemies even to death. Brazil, fo called from the wood of that name, with which it abounds, was difcovcred in 1493. by Americus Vefpuclus, then in the Spanifh fcrvice. At this lime, however, he failed no farther than the 5th degree of fouth latitude ; but being employed in the year 1500, by the king of Portugal, he then ex- tended his difcoveries to fifty-two degrees. In con- fequence of the accounts received of the richnefs of the country, feveral private Portuguefe adventurers went over to Brazil with their families ; but moft' of them bei.ig deftroyed by the native.^, no efFeiSlual fettlement was made till the year 1549, when John III. king of Portugal, fent thither a fleet with a thoufand foldiers on board, under the command of Thomas de Sofa. At the defire of pope Paul III. many jcfuits alfo embarked on the expedi.ion, with the view of converting the natives. On the arrival of the fleet, the Portuguefe find- ing the country divided into feveral petty kingdoms or Hates, and the inhabitants at war among them- fclves, they artfully fomented thofe inteftine quarrels, and by aiTifting ooe nation againft another, they at length eftablifhed their own power on the conqueft of the natives, whom they reduced to a ftate of flavery, and built the citv of St. Salvador, in the Bay of All Saints. The f'rench alfo made fome attempts to plant colonies on this cpaft, but were repulfed by the TERRA Firma is fituate bctwicn fifty and eighty- two degrees of weft longitude, and between the equator and twelve degiiees of north latitude; bounded on the north and eaft by the Atlantic Ocean, on the fouth by Amazonia, and on the weft by the Pacific Ocean. 7 1 jfe pans which lie on the Atlantic, efpc cially towards the north, are mountainous ; but the weftcin coaft is flat low land, and overflowed great part of the year. This extenlive country is divided into fen pro- vinces, viz. Popayan, New Grenada, Caribbiana, New Andaluzia, Comana, Venezuela, Rio de la Hacha, St. Martha, Carthagena, and Darien, or Ten a Firma Proper. The province of Popayan is bounded on the north by Terra Firma Proper, on the eaft by New Grenada^ on the fouth by the audience of Quito in Peru, '.id on the wc(l by the Pacific Ocean; extending in length from 590 H M D R N America.] from north to fouth four hundred mil«>, and in breadth three hundred. A chain of almoft impalTable mountains runs thrcjgh the country fiom nonh to fouth } fome of which are volcanoes, and in one the load-ftone is found. Towards the fliore of the fouth Tea the land is low and flat ; and as the rainy feafon continues near three quarters of the year, innumerable rivers fall from the mountains into the ocean, in the fand of which is found a great quantity of gold duft. This circumftance induces the Spaniards to refide in tho I'e parts, notwithftanding the great heat and moinure of the climate render it extremely unwholefomr. The chief town is Papayan, fituat: in three degrees of north latitude, and feventy-flx degrees of weft lon- gitude, in a fruitful plain at the foot of the mountains. It is a large town, .> place of good trade, and the fee of a bifliop, fuffragan of Santa Fe. The other towns are Agreda, or St. John de Pafto, and Madrigal, The province of New Grenada is bounded on the wed by Popayan ; on the north by St, Martha, Venezuela, and New Andaluzia ; on the eaft by Caribbiana; and on the fouth by the country of the Amazons ; being ;.bout fix hundred miles in length from the north-eaft to the fouth- weft, and five hun- dred in breadth. This large inland country, which is efteemed as fruitful as any part of Terra Firma, aflfbrds a variety of hills and fruitful valleys, watered with navigable rivers. The chief of thofe are the ri- ver Grande, or Magdalena, which rifing in the fouth, runs diredtly ctofs the province, falling into the north fea, to the northward of Carthagena j and the river Oronoque, which rifing in Popayan, runs dire£ily eaft, and turning to the northward, after pafling the bounds of the province, falls into the nurib fea, near the ifland of Trinadad. The chief town is Santa- Fe de Bagota, fituate in feventy-four degrees weft longitude, and in four de> grees odd minutes of north latitude, on the lalce Gugtavita, in a plentiful country abounding with corn and cattle. This is the moft confiderable town in Terra Firma ; the feat of the governor, of the courts of juftice, and alfo toe fee of an archbiftiop. The other towns are Tocama, Pampeluria, Velez, Trinadad, Palma, Tunia, and St. John de Lanos, The province of Guiana or Caribbiana is bounded on the fouth by Amazonia ; on the weft by Gre- nada ; and )n the north and eaft by the Atlantic O- cean, along the fiiore of which it extends upwards of twelve hundred miles. This is the only province of Terra Firma not occupied by the Spaniards alone, the French and Dutch having alfo fettlements in it ; but the natives are yet in pofleflion of the greater part of the country, and arc not fuhjeft to any of the European powers, except upon the fea coaft. I'he Englifti had formerly fome fettlements here, which were yielded to the Dutch by the treaty of fircda, in the year 1667. The fettlements of the French and Dutch arc chiefly near the mouth of the rivers, where they have built feveral forts. The principal commo- dities which they export thence are, fugar, tobacco, ••tton, flax, peltry, drugs, and dying woods ; for it does not appear that any gold or filver mines have yet been difcovered, as was expe£led by the firft adven- turers. The chief French feitlement is that of Cayenne, (ituated on an ifland at the moulh of a river of the fame name, in five degrees of north latitude. The ifland is about feven leagues long, and three broad, well wooded and watered with rivulets, and has fe- veral good French towns upon it, befides villages of Indians, It produces fugar, tobacco, Indian corn, with other grain and plants, the fame as in the neighbouring continent, than which it is reputed more healthful, on account of its lying open to the fea. breezes. The property of this ifland was long dif- puted by the French and Dutch, but at laft was yield- ed to the former. The chief Dutch fettlement is'that of Surinam, which is the only confiderable acquifition they have made in America; fituated five leagues within the ri- ver of the fame name, in fix degrees odd minutes of north latitude. They occupy the country round this fortrefs for feveral hundred miles, and have numerous plantations, producing coffee, cotton, tobacco, and fugar. Part of this territory they took from the Englifh, in the reign of Charles 11. and it was after- wards confirmed to them, in confideration of their re- linquifhing all pretenfions to New York, and fome other places in North America, of which they had been divefted by the former nation. The province of New Andaluzia, in which may be comprehended Comana, and the diftriA of Paria, is bounded on the eaft by the river Oronoque, which feparates it from Caribbiana ; on the fouth by Ama- zonia, on the weft by the provinces of Grenada and Venezuela, and on the north by the ocean { extend- ing in length from north to fouth upwards of five hundred miles, and in breadth between two and three hundred. The chief river that waters this country, is the Oror'.'.^ue, which rifes in the mountains of Andes in Peru, whence running dire£)ly eaft for almoft two thoufand miles, it turns to the north, and continuing that courfe above a thoufand miles more, falls into the north fea by feveral channels, between eight and nine degrees of north latitude. The chief towns are, Comana, Varina, and St. Thomas. The latter was the place which Sir Walter .Raleigh's people at- tacked, when he went in fearch of a gold mine, and for which he was afterwards beheaded. The province of Venezuela is bounded on the eaft hy New Andaluzia, on the fouth by Grenada, on the weft by Rio Je la Hacha, and on the north by the fea ; extending four hundred miles in length from eaft tc weft, and in breadth about three hundred. The chief town is Venezuela, or Little Venice, fo called from its fituation in the waters. It ftands in fixty-nine degrees of weft longitude, and eleven of north latitude, upon a peninfuta near a gulf to which it communicates its name, Befides being the refs- dence of the governor and the courts of juftice, it i» the fee of a bifliop, fulFragan to the archbifliop of St. Domingo, in Hifpaniola, Other confiderable towns in this province arc, Caraccs, Miracaibe, Gibraltar,. & St. [Terra firma. GENERAL TRAVELLER. 59t St. lago de Leon, New Segovia, Tucuyo, Trugillo, Laguna, and Maricapano, The province of Rio de la Hacha is bounded on the £afl by Venezuela, on the fouth by G'enada, on the wc{l by the province of St. Martha, ind on the north by the Tea, It is but a fmall province, and frequently comprehended under that of St. Martha. It abounds in corn and cattle, and has a pearl-fifhery upon the coafl, with fomc fait works. The chief towns are, Rio de la Hacha and Roncheria. The former is fltuated near the north fea, on a river of the fame name, in eleven degrees odd minutes of north latitude. It has been (o often plundered by enemies and buccaneers, that the Spaniards abandoned it for fome time, but have again taken pofleilion of it. The province of St. Martha is bounded on the ead by Kio de la Hacha, on the fouth by New Grenada, on the weft by Carthagena, and on the north by the fea; being about three hundred miles in length from eaft to weft, and near two hundred in breadth. This country is mountainous, and fome parts of it fo high as to be feen at the dift,anceof almoft two hundred miles at fea. Here commence the Andes, which run quite through South America to the Streights of Magellan. 7*he capital of this province is St. Martha, fituated on a bay of the Tea, in feventy-four degrees of weft longitude, and eleven degrees odd minutes of north latitude. Here is a bifhop's fee, with the feat of the governor and courts of juftice. There is a large har- fiour, farmed by the continent and two iflands which lie before it. The other towns are, Ramada, Ba- ramca, Cividad de los Reys, and Tanialamaque. The province of Carthagena is bounded on the tafi by St. Martha, on the fouth by Popayan and New Grenada, on the weft by the gulf of Darien, and on ihe noi'th by the fea. It is computed to be , three hundred miles in length from north to fouth, and a- bout two hundred in breadth. The capital is Cartha- gena, fltuated in a peninfula on a bay of the north fea, in feventy-fix degre'-^ fifty minutes of weft longi- tude, and ten degrees thirty minutes of north lati- tude. This lying one of the beft harbours in Spanifh America, great part of the treafurei of Terra Firma is lodged here, to be exported to Europe by the gal- leons. Though the harbour be capacious, the en- trance of it is fo narrow, that not more than one (hip can enter it at a timej and it is ftrongly de- fended by caftles and platforms of guns. The other towns are Madre de Popa, Cenu, and I'olu, Darien, or Terra Firma Proper, is bounded on the north by the fea ; on the eaft by the gulf of Darien, which feparates it from Carthagena ; on the fouth by Popayan and the South Sea ; and on llic weft by the fame fea, and a part of Mexico. It is about three hundred miles in length, and fixty in breadth from fea to fea ; lying in the form of a crefcent on the bay of Panama, a part of the Pacific Ocean. As this province is one of the moft important, and has been the fcene of more tSt'ian than any other in America, it deferves to be particularly defcribed. Along the Ifthmus, which is beautifully diverfified with hills and fertile valleys, a chain of mountains No. 49. runs foaring above the reft, of unequal breadth, but feldom more than twelve or fifteen leagues from the north fea, towards which it gradually declines, in an almoft co.^tinued foreft. Though the rivers that water this tra£l are pretty large, yet few of them are navigable, their entrance being generally obftruflcd by ihoals and fand-banks. The river or gulf of Darien, the eaftern boundary of the province, rifcs in the fouth, and running direft- ly north, upwards of a hundred miles, falls into the north fea, near Golden Illand, It is fix or feven leagues wide at the mouth, but its depth bears no proportion, there not being about fix foot of water in a fpring tide. Within the bar, however, it ig deep enough for large fliips, and navigable almoft a hundred miles } but as vefTels of burthen cannot get over the bar, very little traflic is carried on upon it. The river of Conception rifes about the middle of the great ridge of mountains, and running precipitately north- weft, falls into the fea oppoflte to an ifland called La Sounds Key, This river, like the former, is broad at the mouth, but has alfo a bar, which prevents any fhips of burthen from getting admittance. In the channel at the entrance, however, there is fine rid- ing, between the Janbalas iflands and the mai-< land, which form a pretty good harbour. The river Chagre rifes near Panama, in the fouthern part of the ifthmus, whence taking its courfe to the north-weft, it winds through numerous valleys, and falls into the north Tea ten leagues to the weft ward of Porto Bello, This river is the moft na- vigated of any in the province, and upon it is em* barked all the merchandize that is fent from Panama to Porto fiello for the galleons, except the gold and fllver, which are carried dire£lly over land upon the backs of mules. The river of Santa Maria, or St, Mary'), rifes from the mountains in the north-eaft part of the pro- vince, and running weftward, falls into the gulf of St. Michael, on the fouth fide of the bay of Panama. This is a large navigable river, and is joined by many rivulets, in the fands of which is found a great quan- tity of gold. To one of tbofe, called the Golden River, the Spaniards come with their flavea from Panama, and other towns in the dry feafon, to ga* ther this metal. The brooks being then not more than a foot deep, the flaves take up the fand in little wooden diflies, and collefl fo great a quantity of gold, that in fome feafons, it is faid they carry off no lefs than eighteen or twenty thoufand pounds weight of the pure metal, form the Golden River alone. The river Congo has its fource in the mountains on the eaft part of the province, and running towards the fouth-weft, almofl parallel to the river Santa Maria, falls likewife into the gulf of St. Michael, to the northward of the preceding, L is a large river, navigable for great vefTels within the bar, but fo (hal- low at the mouth, as to be very difficult of en- trance. I'he river Cheapo rifes in the mountains near the north fea, whence bending its courfe weftward, and then turning to the fouth, it falls into the bay of 7 H Panatba, JM H B M O E N [America. Pinama, Teven leaguei weftward of that city. This is airo a large river, but liable to the Tame inconvenience ai the others, of having a bar at its mouth, which denie* all accefs to large vefleli Thli province being very narrow, and lying be- tween two great oceans, viz. the north and fouth feaa, ia more expofed to wet weather than any other plac« within the torrid eone. The rainy feafon annually begins in April or May, and continues very violent during June, July, and Augufi, accompanied with great heat, which, when the fun happens to Ihine out, is almoft intolerable, In September the rains begin to abate, but it is fometimes January be- fore they entirely ceare. They are, however, neither totally uninterrupted, or nor uniformly violent, during the period in which they prevail. They generally commence with a fudden fliower, lilce our April or thunder fliowers; then follow perhaps two or three in a day; afterwards one every hour ; till at lad they continue the whole day ; accompanied with violent thunder and lightning, and the air impregnated with a faint fulphureous finell. It may perhaps rain in- celiantly for a nionth or fix weeks without any thun- der or lightning, when fometimes there fucceeds a week of fair weather, with now or then a tornado or thunder-fliower, which refreflies the air ; but the dropping of the trees at this time is as troublefome as the rain. The floods aiid torrents caufed t>y thofe rains fre- quently overturn trees, which dam up the rivers, and produce an inundation of all the neighbouring plains. After every heavy (Iiower, there is generally a dif agreeable concert of the hifling of ferpcnts, the croak- ing of toads, and the humming of gnats ; the latter of which,. though not fo frequent here as in other warm coiintries, ate however very troublefome In all the fwampy grounds. The moft temperate feafon is about Chriftmas, when the fair weather approaching, the air is refrefli- ed with a cooling breeze. The foil of this country is good in the middle of the province, but the fliores both of the north and fouth Teas are generally either a dry barren fand, or drowned mangrove land, that will hardly produce aiiy grain { add to which, that in thofe parts the air is very unhealthy, being exceiGve hot and wet for tW9 thirds of the year. The neighbourhood of Panama, the capital city, is fo exceeding poor, that the provifions of the inhabitants are imported from places at a diftance. And if their communication with thofe were cut ofF for only a few months, the city would unavoidable be ftarved. This dependent (late is not the confequence of the nature of the country alone, bitt is owing in gieat ipcafure to the indolence or inattention of the inhabitants, who neither clear it of wood, nor beftow fufficient pains on its cultivation. The Indians, who are not very nu- merous, clear no more ground than is necefla^y to afford them ■: little corn, which, with the produce of their little gardens, and what they take' in hunt- ing and iifliing, furnilhes a poor fubflftence for their families ( and with refpefV to the Spaniards, they hate an averfion to the toils of agriculture, both in the old and new world. Among the great Variety of fruit and trees produ> ced in this climate, one is the cntton-trce, which is not only the largefl-, but the niotl common tree upon the ifthmus, and much ufed by the Indians for mak- ing their canoes. On the north coafl are plenty of the mod (lately cedars, frequently applied to the fame purpofe. The maccaw-tree is a fpccies of palm, growing in moid grouhds, and rifing (Iraight up to the height of about ten foot, where it flioots out its branches to the length of twelve or fourteen foot. The flem is furrounded at certain diftanccs with protuberant rings, which are thick fct with long prickles. The leaf, which is of an oblor.g form, broad at qne end, and almoft as thick as a man's hand, is alfo covered with the fame, and greatly jagged' about the edges. The fruit grows in large clufters. Its fliape refembles that of a pear, and the colour, when ripe, is either a yellow or bright red,, the outfide being ftringy and flimy, and contaihing. a ftone in the middle. The fruit has a (harp tafte, but is extremely palatable. 1 The bibby is a ftraight {lender tree, hardly thicker than a man's thigh, and grows to tne height of fixty or feventy foot. The branches fprout near the top, and roun4 the root of each branch the berries grow ia the form of a garland. The Wood la clofe graii^ed and black. The Indians top it when yot^ng, and priScurq from it a wheyifli. liquor of ^ ihatp buit pleasant taile. The berries are ' about the bignefs o/ a nutnieg, of a pale colour, affording an oil, on being boiled, with which the Indians paint themrelve:, ^he calabafh is a Ihelt-frdit, of a globular (orat^ very hard, and containing from two to five q;uar.ts of liquor, ivhich, though frequenjlly iifed by the Tht dians on a march, is not very' pleafant. Qf thole there are two kinds, the fweet and the bfttei, the lat- ter of which is medicinal. It is faid to be a fpecilic in tertians ; and a deco£lion of it, adminift'ered, by way of clyfter, is accounted an admirable remedy in the dry gripes. ' The (hells are ufed as drinking veflTels, being almoft as hard as the cocoa (hell, but not quite fo thick. The Darien calabafh, when painted, is greatly valued by the Spaniai'ds. The mangrove-tree conlifta of fevcral thin (lema, (hooting from different roots that rife a foot or more above the water, and i^iting one with another form a body conflderably thick. The mangrove is reddifh, and ufed in tanning leather. (^alFavalikewife thrives well here. It is a root rr- f^m^Iing parfnip, and of whir;h there are two kinds. The fweet fort they roaff and eat ; and of the other, often preflingout the juice, which is reckoned poifon* bus, they make bread in the manner of oat cakes. The country likewife produces plenty of tobacco, but as the inhabitants are ftrangers to the method of cultivating the plant, it is not quite fo ftrong as that of Virginia. Having dripped and cured the leaves, they lay feveral, one upon another, and afterwards roll them up Tideways, leaving a hollow in the center ; the RICA. Terra Firma.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 593 the length of the roll frequently extending to two or three f. Their method of fmoaking is peculiar : a boy having lighted one end of a roll, blows the finolce with the areath of his mouth through the whole length of the roll into the faces of the company. They receive it, fitting on forms, in the hollow of their hands, inhaling it with great eagernefs, and feeming to be in raptures at fo agreeable a refrefli- ment. Among the animals, the pecary, whicii is frequent in other parts of South America, is alfo a native of Terra Firma. It refembles in ftiape the Virginian hog ; is of a black colour, with fliort legs, and ex- tremely fwift i remarkable likewife for having its navel not on the belly, but on the back. The pecaries ufually go in herds of one or two hundred together. The warnea is another kind of hog, with little ears, large tufks, and ftrong bridles covering the whole body. It fights with every creature that comes in its way ; but feems to have a peculiar enmity to the pecary. They are excellent food, and the Indians hunt and barbicue them, as well as the latter. The woods are full of various forts of middle^flzed monkeys, which are reckoned good eating. Moft of them are black, and have beards, but others are of a white colour, and without that appendage. Though there be plenty of red deer in this country, the Indians never hunt them, but they pick up the horns that are found flied in the woods, and hang them by way of ornament in their houfei. Here are no hares, but a few rabbits, almoft as large as hares, with little fhort ears, long claws, and no tails; neither are there any bullocks, fheep, cows, goats, afles, or horfes. Cats alfo being un- known, the country is over>run with grey rats r\nd mice. The fpiders are large; but not poifonous, green and red fpeckled lizards are very frequent, and permitted by the Indians to run about their houfes un- molefted. In the woods is found a large- bodied bird, called by the Indians chicaly-chicaly. Its plumage is beauti- fully variegated with the fineft red, blue, and other lively colours. It feeds on fruits, flies from tree to tree, and rarely lights on the ground. The corrofon is alfo a large bird, and lives among the fruit-trees. It is of a dark colour, and the cock has on his head a crown of yellow feathers, which he moves at picafure ; with gills like tfaofe of a turkey. The Indians either bury the bones of this bird, or throw them into the river left they fliould be eat by the dogs, in which animal it is faid they produce niadnefs. Here is alfo great variety of beautiful parrots, which are efteemed good food, u well as the two fpecies of birds before mentioned. The macaw bird is juftly reckoned the moft beaur tiful in the country. Its feathers are an alTemblage of the moft delightful colours that can be conceived. Its tail is bufhy and contains two or three red or blue feathers, much longer than the reft. It is (haped like a parrot, but is twice as large. Here is alfo found the pelican, a large bird, fiiort legged, with a great beak, and a long neck, which it carries upright like a fwan. It is wcbb-footed, and its feathers of a dark grey colour. Udder the throat hangs a membrane, in which the bird carries its pre* vifion. The bats on the iflhmus are as large as pigeom, and have very long wings, the extremities of which are armed with v'awi. Among the flies, the moft remarkable is the flsiMing fly, which is of the nature of the glow-worm. Various kinds of fifti are alfo found upon- the coaft, as well as in the rivers, and in general thty are excellent food. The Indians are moft numerous towards the north fide of the ifthmus. The men are generally near fix foot high, and the women fhort and plump. Both fexes are well made, of an orange tawny, or copper colour, and have good features, but their nofc ia (hort and fnu'jbed. They pride themfelvet much in long hair, which is black, lank, and ftrong. On the men it hangs perfectly loofe, but the woiMtn tie their's clofe to the head with t ftring, whence it flows down on their backs. They pluck all their hair from their eye-lids, eye-brows, and beards } and this operation is ufually performed bjr the women, , ' ■ t There is a fpecies of people fcattered up and dowa the ifthmus, perhaps not exceeding three hundred, who differ entirely from the common inhabitantl. Their complexion is a milk white, and their bodies are covered with a ftiort down of the fame colour. The hair of their heads and eye-brows alfo is wbiw» growing to the length of fix Or eight incha, and in' dining to curl. Thofe people arc left in ftwuie tHaa the other Indiai^s. Their eye-brows likewife ar& dif« ferently formed, bending in the fliape of a erafcent.- They cannot fee in the funfliine, and therefove bardt^ ever go abroad in the day-time, except in dark cloudy weather. They are noc a diftinft 'ace, but prdeewl from lawny parents ; and as they are obfervcd to bff fhorter-lived than the other Indians, it is probable that their difcriminating marks a^e the ofhSk of foittc peculiar deviation of their conftitution from the ftatid- ard of health. The natives of Terra Firma hardly make ufe of any cloathing. The women have only a pteee of oot- ton tied about th.:ir middle with a cord, and hanging down to their ancles ; nor do the men conceal any part but their privities, which tbcy cover either wttb a plantain leaf, or if they can afibrd it, a piece 6t gold and filver, formed like the extinguifher of a can- die. This they tie very hard upon the penis, and faften it to their waifta with a ftring. They are in general a cleanly modeft people, and even the men> turn away from one another, when they are about to make water. For which purpofe they flip off their funnel, replacing it nimbly when they have done. They have not, however, any firnfe of fliame with 6 re/peA f 594 T H MODERN [America, refpe£l to (hewing their hinder ptrti, and it i« the univerfal praflicc to eafe themrelvei in the river. But though they generally ufe no other covering than what hat been mentioned, there are fume oc- cafion* on which they wear long fringed garments reaching down to their heeli i fuch, for innanc.-, ai attending upon their chief, going to a wedding, or ■ny other feftival. Even at thofe limei, however, they do not drcfa at home, but at the place of ren- dcBvoui, whither they are followed by women who carry thier ornament* in a baflcet. The men wear upon their nofe a crefccnt of gold, filver, or other metal, which reachei over their lips, the extremitiea being fattened to the noftrils { and the women inftcad of plates wear ringi run quite through the noflril, which is therefore often drawn down to the !ip, efpecially in old women, Tbofc crnaments are generally removed when they fit down to their meals, though they foinetimes only raife them with their left hand. People of condition adorn their cars with large gold pendants, the weight of which often ftretchei the part to a great length. They alfo wear braccleti of teeth, (hells, or beads, hanging from the neck down upon the breaft. She is reckoned a poor woman who has not more than (ifteen or twenty pound weight of thofe ornaments about her on any folemn occafion. When the Indians go to war, they paint their faces red, and the reft of their body with black and yellow fpoti, or fuch colours as they like heft ; which they always wa(h off in the river every night before they go to (leep. The houfes in Terra Firma are compofed of mud and timber, the foundations generally finking two or three foot into the ground, and the roof, which is made to (lope, and near twenty foot high in the middle, being covered with lar(,e palm and other leaves. They are for the moft part ereded near a river fide, in a fcattered manner, without any difpofition of fireeti or rows, but within call of each other, In- ftcad of chimnies, the fmoak paflfes through a hole made io the roof for that purpofe. There is no di- vifion of apartments, but every perfon is furnifhed with his own hammock, which hangs from the roof. Their feats are blocks of wood, and they have nei. ther doors, (helves, nor tables. In the fides, or at the ends, are holes made at random, through which they annoy their enemies with (hooting arrows. They fet maize round every houfe, by making a hole in the ground with their fingers, into which they throw grains, and cover them with earth. For the celebration of any feftival they (leep twenty or thirty bufhels of this grain in a vclTel of water, which in a (hort time begins to grow four. Then feveral women chew grains of maize in their mouth, fpit- ting them afterwards into calaba(hes, with which they are furnithed for the purpofe, and latlly empty them, fpittle and all, into the four water, which has previoufiy been decanted from the maize, and is put into fermentation by this mixture. When the procefs has been completed, they pour the liquor off the fediment, and preferve it for ufe. The only taflc of the men i< to clear the plantation!! by cutting down the trees, the women pcrforniing all other wotks, both within and without doori, brfides attending in the character of ^Icivan'.s, when ihcir hufbands go abroad, NatwithHanding this fljvcry, tbey go about every thing witli fuel) readincfs, that their labour feemt to be eiiiinly the cfTcdt of choice { and it is common to obferve the greaielt harmony fub- fift between the men and their wives. Almoil immediately after a child is born, a wo. man carries the mother and infant upon her back, and wafhes them in the river. I'he child is after- wards kept for a month tied by the back upon a (Iraight piece of maccaw wood, from which it is re- moved only for the purpofe of being cleaned, the mo- ther lifting up board and all when (lie puts it to the bread. When a man is about to difpofe of his daughter in marriage, he invites all his acquaintances for twenty miles round, and provides a great fead to entertain them. The men that attend his invitation bring their axes to work with, and each of the women about half a bu(hel of maize. The boys bring fruits and roots, and the girls eggs and fowls. They lay down their feveral burdens at the door, and retire till all the guefts are arrived ; the hod in the mean time dif- pufing of the gifts as he thinks proper. On their return, he prefents each perfon with a calabafh of Hrong liquor, fending them afterwards into an area behind the houfe. In this manner the male vifitors are firft received, the women next, and afterwards the boys and girls; The fathers of the bride and bridegroom then ap- pear to the company, each leading his refpedive child. The father of the latter, makes a fpeech, and having danced with that of the former till they are perfe£lly fatigued, he prefents his fon to the bride, who is held by her father kneeling. The young couple hav> ing joined hands, the bridegroom is returned to his parent, and the ceremony concludes. The men then run with th' :r axes, hollowing and hooping, to an adjacent tra£l of land, which they clear from the wood, continuing perhaps at work for fix or feven days. As they clear the ground, the women plant it with maize, or whatever elfe is in feafon. This being done, they join to build a houfe for the new married couple, who enter it on the eighth day, when a courfe of fellivity begins, generally accom> panied with hard drinking and rioting, that lafls for feveral days, after which the company difperfes. The men here are allowed a plurality of wives ; and before a new married bride is prefented to her hufband, (he fpends the firft feven nights with her father, or the next male relation. This cuftom is intended to (hew that her friends are unwilling to part with her. , „ The men drink to one another at meals, reaching the cup to the perfon to whom they have laft paid the compliment. The women who ftand by to at- tend them, rince the cup when it is empty, and fill it again ; retiring, when the meal is concluded, to cat and drink by themfelve^. ^ When Terra Firma.) GENERAL TRAVELLER. ni When the men are neither cutting wood nor hunt- ing, their dometlic occupationi, if their natural in. dolcncc ulluwt them to fubmit (o any, are the mak- ing bows, atrovvi, lances, b.i(kcci, and cups. Some- time! they notch a hullow cane, with which, by blowing Ihongly, they produce a kind of whinin;', lioife without any niclddy. chapels with feveral monafteries and nunneriei. It ii the feat of the governor and courts of juftice,- and alfo the fee of a bifliop, who is fufTragan to the archbi- Hiop of Lima in Peru. Dut what renders this place moll confidcrable, are the trcafurcs of gold and filver, and the rich merchandize of Peru, which are lodged here in m^igazines till they are fent to Europe ) a* At other times thirty or loriy of them will dance well as the merchandize Tent over by the galleons together, forming a ring, and Ihaking all the joints of their body in an antic manner. Their merriments generally conclude with drinking; which is alfo the praiHice of the women, who dance in the fame man- ner by themfcwcs, They have no idea of the divifions of the day into hours and minutes, but to exprefs that any thing from Old Spain, to be tranfported to Peru and Chili. Porto-Bcllo is fituatu in a hundred and twenty degrees five minutes well longitude, and in ten de- grees thirty minutes of north latitude } about feventy miles north of Panama, on the narrowed nart of tho illhmus. The harbour has a narrow entrance, but is large, fecure, and commodious, defended by a fort happened fo majiy nights (ince, they lean their head i on the left hand going in, an on their hand, as if alleti, repeating the aftion (o often as they would cnu'iierate nights. They com- pute their zras by the moon, being entirely Grangers to any other planetary revolution. They reckon by units to ten, which in their lan- guage is called anivego. At this number they clap their hands together, and for every fucceeding num- ber, Urikc the fingers of the left hand one by one with the fore-finger of the right, exprcfljng the quan- tity by repeating it thus, viz. ten and one, ten and two, &c. till they come to twenty, when they clap their hands together twice, repeating this ceremony with the addition of a clap at every fcore, till they count a hundred, which feenis to be the ne plus ultra of their bell .trithmeticians. Stealing and adultery are here puniflied with death, except the woman fwcars that fhe was forced to be falfe. If othcrwifc, flic is burned. The manner of puni(hing him who deflowers a \irgin, is by thruding into the penis a briar, which is turned round ten or twelve times, This operation is ufually followed by a gangrene of the part } but the conviiSl i; at liberty to cure himfclf if he can. All pofitc on the other. At the bottom of the harbour lies the town, bending alfo in the form of a crefcent. In the middle, on the fhorc, is a third fmall fort ; and at the well end of the town, upon an eminence^ another Arnng fort, which is, however, commanded by a neighbouring hill. In all thofe forts there are ufually about two or three hundred men in garrifon. The town lies open towards the country, without walls or works. On an eminence, near th: great fort at the weft end of the town, (lands the gover- nor's houfe, and at the call end is a long Anble for the king's mules. This quarter of the town is fitu* ated in low fwampy ground ; and the fca, at low water, leaving the ihoie within the harbour bare, a great way from the houfcs, the mud emits a very noifome vapour, which added to the heat of the climate, renders the place extremely jinhealthfut. I'owards the fouth and eaft the country rifes gra-r dually in hills, which are partly woodlands, and partly favannah or padure ; but there ate few fruit- trees, or plantations near the town. The inhabitants confid chiefly of Indians, Mu- lattoes, and Negroes, no Spaniard of any condition thofe fa(Sls mud be proved hy the witnefs fwearing choofing to refide in fo unwhoiefome a place. But at \>y his own tooth The natives of Terra Firma have a great venera- tion for the Sun and Moon, though they never pay divine honours, nor apply in didrefs to thofe lumina- ries, but to inferior demons, from whom they ima- gine that all human calamities proceed. 1 he chief towns of Terra Firma, are Panama, Porto BcUo, Venta dc Cruz, Cheapo, Nota, Con- ception, Santa Maria, and Schuchadero. The city of Panama is fituate in eighty-one de. grces of wed longitude, and in nine degiecs of north latitude. It dands in the form of a crefcent in the mod capacious bay in the South Sea, and is built with brick and done j fiirroundcd by a done wall, fortified with badions and other works, and planted with great guns both towards the fca and land. Tho' fmall vcflels lie clufe to the walls, the water is fo ihallow near the town, that great fliips cannot come up to it, on which account the port to the city is the ifland of Pcrica, didant about three miles, Pa- nama is reckoned to contain fix thoufand houfcs, eight parifli churches, bcfidcs (he cathedral, thirty No. 49. the time of the fair it is fo crouded with rich mer- chants, that above a hundred crowns arc given for a poor lodging, and a thoufand crowns for a (hop, during the fliort time that the galleons day here. The place is fo i ibjefl to pedilential fevers that five hun- dred perfons have been known to die of the diftemper during the continuance of the fair only. This incon- venience of the climate was particularly experienced in 1727, by the Britifh fquadron, of which not only the commanders, admirals Hofier and Hopfon, periflied, but thediip's crew of almod every veflel, twice over. Venta de Cruz is fituate in eighty one-degrees thirty minutes of wed longitude, and nine degrees twenty minutes of north latitude, about thirty miles to the northward of Panama, on the banks of the Chagre, where the river begins to be navigable. Here the merchandize brought from Panama is em- barked for Porto-Bello, in order to be fent to Europe. The town of Cheapo is fituated on the river of the fame name, about twenty- five miles north-cad. of Panama, and twenty from the fca. It is but a fmall place, of no confidcrable trade, 7 J NdU 596 THE MODERN [America. Old Ml Not* ii • port-town on the weft fide of the bajr ofi Panama, about feventy milei routh-wed of the city ' of Pinam*. The chief depenJance of ihe inhabit.ini» | ii en the Utter, which they fupply with cattle, hog% : ■nd poultry. | Conception l> a fmall town near the mouth of the j river of the fame name, 1 Santa Maria is fliuaied Ax leagues from the fca, on the fouth bank of the livcr to which it givei name, in i fcven drgrees forty minutes of north Utiiuili?. It i« ' ■n unhcalthful place, and confiderable only on ac- count of the gold which is found in the neighbour- hood. Schuchadero is a fmall town, fituated on the north fide of the fame river, near its fource. As it (lands on a dry foil, on the gulf of St, Michael, a...' it thence refrelhed by breezes, it is reputed a healthy place, but is otherwifc nut confiderable. The fituation chofcn by the Scots, when they at- tempted to make a I'ettlcnient in Terra Firma, was one of the moft advantageous in the country. It was on the continent, near the north-weft point of the ■>ulf of Darien, in nine degrees of north latitude. The harbour of the city which they intended to build was about a league in length from the north weft to the fouih-eaft, half a m''e broad at the entrance, up- wards of a mile broad within, and large enough to loiitain five hundred fail of (hips, untouched by any wind that could blow. The fort ftood upon a pe- ninfula, almoft furrounded by the harbour and the north fea, and the accefs to the pcninfula fo defended by rocks and precipices, that a very little art would have rendered it impregnable. The water of the place was fwect, the air temperate and healthful, and there was fo much land within the fcttlementas might have produced ten thoufand hoglheads of fugar yearly. The peiiinfula likcwife abounded in venilbn and poultry, as did the feas with the bed fi(h ; and what rendered it ftill more important, it ftood in the neigh- bourhood of the richeft gold rivulets In America. The parliflir.ent of Scotland pafl'cd an aft in the year 1695, for erefling a company to trade to Africa and the Indies. By thii a<3 they were authorized to plant colonies and fettlements in the Eaft and Weft Indies under his m.-ijefty's letters patent, which they alfo obtained ; and both the Englilh and Hamburgh merchants contributing very largely to the entcrprizc, (evera! (hips were equipped, which failed for the iilhmus of Darien in i6g8, with forces on board, and every thing requifite to plant a colony. They landed '"■rft on Golden Ifland, at the taouth of the river Darien ; but afterwards abandoning this fitu- ation, th;y went over to the continent, and built the fort of Edinburgh with the pcrmifllon of the natives, calling the country, which they procured from Ihe Indians, New Caledonia. The Indians who favoured this fetilement pofTefled that tradl of the iflhnius which extends along the north fea, from the gulf of l^arien to Port Scrivan, being about a hundred and forty miles i and from Caret Bay, in the foi-th weft pirt of the gulf, to the head of the river Cheapo in the fouth, about a hundred and fifty " iles : the breadth in fome placet was fixty milei, and in otheu upwards of a hundred. 1'h( Indian princes within ihofe limits, who wert eight nt Icall, and all of them then at war jvith the Spaniard!, received the new fetilert with great joy, in hopes of obtaining their afTiftance againft their an- cient enemy, the Spaniards. For fome time the 4d- vanccment of the infant colony wai fuitable to the fangiiinc cxpcflatiuiia that had been formced of its furcrfy ) but the Spaniards remonllrating to the court of Kngl.ind on the fubje£V, as an invafion of their properly, and the Lngli(h Eaft-India company like- wife complaining that it was an infringement of their charier, the Englilh parliament thought fit to inter- pofe, and addrefs king William to recall his patent to the Scotch company. The. Scots immediately fent their agents to the court of London, to reprefent, that the fettlement of this colony was no invafion of the rights of the Spanilh crown, becaufe the fubjefls of the latter had never been in polTclTion of that part of the Ifthmus, or, if they were, had been driven from it by the na- tives, who were, then proprietors of it, and at afiual war with the Spaniards. Such, however, was the influence of the court of Spain, and the Englilh Eaft- India company, tiist every meafure was taken by go- vernment to impede the fuccefti of the colony. The Englilh miniftry prevailed on the Hamburghers to draw their money out of the flock, and the parlia- ment of England threatened the London merchantt, who had any (hare in it, with their difpleafure, if they did not immediately Withdraw their alHftance from the fettlement. Orders, at the fame time, be- ing fent to Jamaica, and the Englifli plantations in the Weft-Indies, prohibiting them from furnifhing the Scots either with provifions or alTiftance, the lat- ter were reduced to the nece(rity of abandoning the enterprize, which muft otherwife have proved equally advantageous to the Britifh dominions, and preju- dicial to the interefts of Spain, Many fmall idands are fcattered along the coaft of Terra Firma, both in the north and fouth fea. In the fo'iner, at the entrance of the gulf of Darien, lie three iflands almoft in a triangle, which form a very commodious harbour. The firft of them, to- wards the eaft, is Golden Ifland, a barren territory> but naturally adapted for dcfenc:, as being almoft furrounded with fteep rocks. The ifland next to the preceding is marfhy ground, and fo befet with mangroves, that it is difficult getting on (hore. It lies near a point of the ifthmus, which is the fame fort of ground for a mile or two. It is hardly parted from the main land but at high water, and even then (hips cannot pafs between them, Ihe third, called the Ifle of Pines, is a fmall ifland north of the other two. It is covered with tali trees, fit for building, or any other ufe, and has in it a fine rivulet of frefh water. Three leagues norlh-wcft of thofe lie the Samballes Iflands, which arc very numerous, and at dilTerenc diftances from the (hore. They are generally low, flat, fandy ifland;, but have great variety of fruit and forcft lERlCA. [in otiieii Old Mbxicu.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 597 fured trte>, and (he fliorei tffbrd good fhell fiffi. 7'hcy ire however not inhabited. Wefiward rroni the Sitnballei, are filuated the iflindi of Uaftimenio, of which there are four nr Ave, lying about a mile from the continent. I'hey arc moOly high land, covered with wood. Farther wed. ward, oppofite to Horto-Bello, ar: two tmall flat illandi without wood or water, and ihcy lie (o near the continent, that there ii but a very narrow chan- nel between them. The other idands on the coall of Darien lie in the bay of Panama, in the Pacific Ocean. I'hii bay ii of a fcmi-circular form, made by Point Garrichina on the fuuth eaft, and Punta Mala in the fouth- wefl i kciiii; about a hundred milei over, and three hundred in circumference, including the gulf of St, Michael. Almoll in the middle of the Hay, lie the Kmg's or Pearl Jflands, which ;ire numerout, low, and wuoily, flrt-tching fiom the foulh-eaO ih the north-wed, Some of them are occupied by the citi- cens of Panam.1, who keep negroes here to plant and cultivate them. The fruit* which ihcy afford arc chiefly plantains and bananas, and in a fi'w there is rice. M.uiy of ihcm, however, efpecially the I,irgc(l, ■re wholly uncultivated, though the foil appears to be fruitful. 7'hofe unplanted iflands (helier the fu- gitive negroes, who lie concealed in the woods in the day>time, and in the night rob the Spanifh planta- tions . The picafanteft In the bay of Panama, ii the ifland of Chepelio, fituated feven leagues eafl of Panama, and a league from the continent. It is about fcven miles in circumference, partly high land, and partly valleys, the latter of which are planted with the bell Indian fruits. The three fmall iflands of Pcrico lie before the city of Panama, about three miles from it, and are properly the port of the town, all great ihips lying here, on account of the fhallownefs of the water between thofe iflands and the continent. We formerly cut logwood in the bay of Campeachy, on the northern fide of the peninfula of Jucatan ; but being expelled by the Spaniards, the logwood-cuttcri> fettled upon the gulph of Honduras, on the fouthcrn fide of the fame peninfula, where they were proteAed by a fort, now demolifhed, agreeable to an article of the late peace. Thofe logwood-cutters are moftly fugitives from all parts of North America, who a- mount to about five hundred, and go always well armed. The country they inhabit is extremely marfliy, the air much infefled with mufquitoes, and the water full of alligators ; yet a life of licentioufnefs and large gains has reconciled them to the unhealihinefs of the climate. In the dry feafon, when they cut logwood, they advance a confiJerable way into the country ; and in the wet feafon, when the ground is overflowed, they convey the wood into the river, down which it is Irought to the port where the (hips lie that come to receive it. This trade is generally carried on by veflels from North-America, which purchafr their goods in Jamaica. In fome years it employs near fix (houfand tons of (hipping, and ccnfumei a large quantity of Briti(h manufafluresi the value of the returns being computed at not Icfs than Axty thoufand pounds a year. OLD MEXICO. ENTERIN Darien, TERING North America by the iflhmus of we arrive in Old Mexico, othcrwife denominated New Spain. I'his country is bounded en the north by New Mexico, on the north>eafl by the gulf of Mexico, on the fuuth-eafl by Terra Fif- nia, and on the fouih-weft by the Pacific Oc^an. It is fituate between eighty-three and one hundred and fixteen degrees of weft longitude, and between eight and twenty. eight degrees of north latitude ; extending upwards of two thoufand miles in length, and from fixty to fix hundred in breadth. This country is for the moA part encumbered with mouiilains a huge chain of which runs nearly the whule length of the cnall from the foulh-eafl to tbt north- well. The inferior hills, however, are gc> ncrally covered with wood, and between them are ' fine fruitful valleys, but hardly any of confiderable extent. I'he lands near the coafl, efpecially on the north-fea, lie under water great part of the year ; and upon thofe morafles are thickets of bam> bno-canes, mangroves, thorns, and briars, fo clofcly interwoven, that it is almoft impoiTible to penetrate them without cutting a way through with the hatchet. The mountains on the wefl fide of Mexico are moft of them volcanoes, whence fire and finoalc ai« perpetually ifTuing. They abound however with great variety of excellent timber, and hardly piuduce any underwood { but on the eafl coaft, the forefts are full of bufhes and copfe. The air of Mexico is very hot and unhealthful in the eaOern coaft, but much more temperate and fa> lubrious on the high land. Earthquakes, occafioned by the volcanoes, are not unfrequent, and fometimes whole towns are deftroyed by them. The feas of Mexico are the north-fea, and tbe Pa> cific Ocean. On the former are the gulfs of Mexico, Campeachy, Vera Cruz, and Honduras } and in the latter are the bays of Nicoya, Acapulco, and Sali> nas. The chief lakes are thofe of Mexico and Nicaragua i and the chief rivers are, the North River, Panueo, Alvarcdo, Tobafco, Xagua, and Yara, all which fall into the gulf of Mexico and the north fea. The year is divided into the wet and dry feafon;, the former of which continues during the greater part of the time that the fun is on the north fide of the equator. Near the coaft, in the Pacific Ocean, they have moonfoons, with fea and land breezes, as in the Eaft Indies ; and in the gulf of Mexico, and tbe adjacent feas, there are ftrong north winds from Oflobcr to March, ubout the full and change of the moon. The animals and vegetable produce of thii coun* try are fo much alike to thofe in South America, that they require no defcription, Mexico 5»8 H M O R N A.MIR IC4] Mexico il divided into thrrc ludirncrs, namrly, 0«!icia, Old Mexico Proper, iiid Guj>liil.i|{iirra. I'hc capital of the country ii Mexico, fituate iii one hundred and two dr^'rcri ihirty-five minutes of weO longitude, and iwenly decreet of nurili btiiude, Thii city (landi upon an id^nd, in a laiir, which liii in the middle of a valley, furroundcd by mouniaini, at about ten milet diAancc, I'he town ii of a fquare I'orni, about two leagues in cirrumfcrence, with a grand area in the middle of it, in which all the Dreeti center. Some part of it ft.inJa upon a mnriirii .ind as many rivers difcharge theml'clvea into the lalce from the adjacent mouniaini, it is fubjcfl to inunda- iioni, notwithOanding the vaft expence that hai been beftowed in making canalt, dyltei, and (luice?, to carry off" the water. This inconvenience of the ft- tuation is however compenfated by two advantngis. One is, the agreeable coulnefj occafioncd by the bree7.cs from the lalcc) and the other the natural ftrength of the city, which can be approached only by caufcways, that have been made between il and the main land. This circumftance was regarded as fo great a fccurity by the ancient Mexicans, no lefs than the Spaniards, that they never inclofcd it with walls. When the Spaniards firft came thither, the town was divided into two pans, the one inhabited by the court and perfons of diftin£)ion, and the other by Ihofe of inferior rank. The former was much the largeft, and contained many fpacious ftreets. The houfes were built of hewn ftonc, one ftory high, and had flat roofs, adorned with batlii-nients, The ciei- ings were of cedar, cyprefs, or other odoriferous wood i and their hangings were either made of f.jrs and beautiful feathers, or cotton, painted with various figures of birds, beads, and plants. Their beds, however, were no better than mats, and the- chairs only of wood. The principal buildings were, the palace of Montezuma, the emperor, and the temples, of which it is to be regretted that more accurate and copious defcripiions have not been prcfervcd. The palace was fo large that it opened with thirty gates into as many different (trcets, the principal front forming one fide of the fquare in the centre of the city. This magnificent edifice was built of po- lifhed jafper, black, red, and white ; and over each gate, in a large fliield, were the arms of Montezuma, which was a griffin, with wings extended, and hold- ing a tiger in his talons. I'he ftru£ture conliftcd of feveral fquare courts, fo vaftly extenflvc, that it con- tained apartments for three thoufand of the emperor's women, and a proportionable number of other do- miftics. The palace afligned to Cortez and his army con- tained accommodation for five hundred Spaniards, and for feveral thoufand Tlafcalans, his Indian allies; the whole being furroundcd by a thick flone wall, and flanked with {lately towers, at convenient dillances. Montezuma had alfo feveral pleafure-houfcs in and about the city. In one of thofe were galleries fup- ported by pillars of jafper, in which were every fpc- ciri of lind-fowli and birds that Mexico produrid, Sci-fuwls were prefcived and led in rcfeitoirn of Uit- water i and ihufe that were bred in lakes and livm, in others of frcfh water. So numerous was the rny«| collr^ion of fowls, iliat it is fa.d to have been the bufmefs uf three hundred men to attend them. In another fquare of the palace were kept all kinds uf be-ids, in their refpeinivc dens and cages | nor wcie there w.initng apartments for dwarfs and mon- Dcru, of the human fpceio, with fools and idioli, who wirr. conO.intly retained for the f|H)rt and fcr- vire of the court. All the palaces had fpacious and elegant garden], laid out in fine fliady walks, and parterres of beauti> ful (lowers, with magnificent fumnicr houfei, b.ignion, irltnurf, and fountains, which equalled or exceeded any thing of the kind in Kurope at th.it time. One building in particular, in the mofl fcqueflcrcj part of the gardens, drew more the attention of the Spaniards than any thing they had fccn. This mai)- lion was called ihe Houfe of Sorrow, and thither the emperor ufed to retire, on the death of his near rcla< tions, or any calamity, public or private, th.it af- feiSled him. Its flrudlure was peculiarly calculated to excite melancholy thoughts in all who entered the walls. Every apartment was covered with black, and no more light admitted than was fuAicient to difcover the difmal obfcurily. The moft remarkable of the Mexican temples w.ns dedicated to Vit-Liputzli, i.ic god of war. I'his Hood in a fpacious fquare, furroundcd by a wall of hewn Aone, which was wrought on the uutfidc with various knots of twiflcd ferpcnts. At a little diHancc from the principal gate was a place of worfliip, bulk of ftonc, .-uid afcended on the outCde by thirty Dcps. I'he roof was flat, and the front of the edifice h.ilf covered with the (kulls of men who had been facri* ficed to the deity. On either fide of the fquare was a magnificent gntc, with four flatuei over each, fuppofed to re- prefcHt fome fubordinate deities, which feemcd to be objccls of veneration to all that entered the gates. Under the wall, on the infide, were ranged the apait- nicnts of the prielis, and their houfchold i yet fo cxteiifive was the area, that room was left for eight or ten thoufand pcifons to dance on folcmn fcftivals. In the middle of the fquare flood an edifice of .1 pyramidal form, three fides of which were fmooth, and on the fourth'were a hundred and twenty (lone fteps, by which tliey afcended to the top, where was a flat of forty feet fquare, laid with jafper of various colours, The baluflradcs which furroundcd the roof, were of a fcrpcntinc form, covered with a ftonc as black as jet, and joined with a red and white cc- inent, which was very ornamental. Within the ba- luflradcs, on each fide, w.is a marble ftatuc, fupport- ing a vafl candKlHck, and between them a green ftone, five fpans high from the roof, and terminating in a point. On this ftone were thrown on their backs the human viiSlims facrificcd by the piiefts, who, after ripping them open with knives made of flint, tore out their hearts and ofl"crcJ them to their 7 'do' } \r '\ lo- "*L-»- '/w-vi '«^^'i'' J# » ^w /* /4» C/l /*,«.-Vi >:fc a^. or H r s s I A 111 IT ]( O 1* H TBowni 0*a»-\ m »s^:. rl^ Ull lf,>iu\r Miut p'l'fn /latufirn oi ctmpcaehy. Thither tlie Rotillk arrlvei annually | from Siiiin, to receive the treafurei of Mexico, which ' are brought to thii port for exportation. A great fair is lield here at that feafon, but the air being un- wholfome the town contain! few inhabitants at other timet, except Mulattoes and Blaclci. It ii about two miles in circumference, and furrounded on the land fide by a wall of no great ftrengih. I'he ordinary garrifon kept here by the Spaniard* confifts only of a troop of fixty horfe, and two regiments of foot. In their pcrfons the Indians of Mexico refemble thofe of Terra Firma, In fome placet the men wear their hair (hort, and the women lung ; but in others it is jull the reverfc. Particular tribea take much pains to render tlieir countenances deformed, for which purpofe they not only prcfs the nofes of the'r new-born infants, but fqueeze their heads between two boards, to render them flat and oblong ; while others mould their tender fkulls into the fliape of a fugar-loaf, At prcfent it is not unufual for the Mexicans to go almoft entirely naked, but this appears not to have been the praiftice of the principal people, efpecially at the arrival of the Spaniard;, We arc informed, that Montezuma, the emperor, when he met Cortex at bit entrance into Mexico, was cloathed in a robe of No. 50. tne tiae iwetticf , the lime or fbch ilTue ) the Tere« croont det Indies, the children of the latter inter- married with pure Spaniardt j and the Quarteroon det Indies, whofe pofterity enjoys the fame privilegel as pure Spaniards. Befldei all thofe, the Blacks ure alfo very nume* rous, who have been imported hither from Africa, and by fome meant or other obtained their freedom. The iflTue of a Spaniard (or other European) by • female negro, is called a Mulattoe. The defcend" antt of thit iflfue, though again intermarried with Spa- niards, can never enjoy the privileges of that nation, unlefs they conceal their defcent, which they fre- quently do by removing from the place of their nati- vity. There it alfo • mixed breed of Negroes and Indians, whofe defcendants are excluded from the privileges of Spaniards, till their ar.ceftors are for- gotten i and fome commonwealths of Blacks, in fe- veral parts of Mexico, that acknowledge no fubjeAion to the Spaniards. Thofe confift of the Negroes and their defcendants, who have run away from their mafters into the woods and mountains. Thefe aro become fo formidable that the Spaniards are obliged to enter into treaties with them, in order to avoid their depredations. m \ fr The 59 Oi Tl hu ioi cil tb ab foi gf cei as frt tic b« cat tu; Oi bri fir by th< fo thi wa CO th< lar ' ho hai inf wc an' fig however, were no oetter than mats, and their chairs only of wood. The principal buildings were, the palace of Montezuma, the emperor, and thr temples, of which it is to be regretted that more accurate and copious defcriptions have not been preferved. The palace was fo large that it opened with thirty gates into as many different flreets, the principal front forming one fide of the fquare in the centre of the city. This magnificent edifice was built of po- liflied jafper, black, red, and white ; and over each gate, in a large (hield, were the sirms of Montezuma, which was a griffin, with wings extended, and hold- ing a tiger in his talons. The ftrufture conlifled of fieveral fquare courts, fo vaftly extenfivc, that it con- tained apartments for three thoufand of the emperor's women, and a proportionable number of other do- mi-ftics. The palace afligned to Cortex and his army con- tained accommodation for five hundred Spaniards, and for feveral thoufand Ttafcalans, his Indian allies j the . whole being furrounded by a thick flone wall, and flanked with (lately towers, at convenient diflances. Montezuma had alfo feveral pleafure-huufcs in and about the city. In one of thofe were galleries fup- potted by pillars of jafper, in which were every fpc. covered with the (kuUs of men who had been facri- ficed to the deity. On either fide of the fquare was a magnificent gate, with four flatues over each, fuppofed to re- prefcnt fome fubordinate diities, which lecmcd to be objeifls of veneration to all that entered the gates. Under the wall, on the infide, were ranged the apart- ments of the priefls, and their houfchold ; yet fo extenfive was the area, that room was left for eight or ten thoufand peifons to dance on fuicmn fcflivals. In the middle of the fquare flood an editice of a pyramidal form, three fides of which were fmootb, and on the fourth'were a hundred and twenty flunc fteps, by which tliey afcended to the top, where was a flat of forty feet fquare, laid with jafper of various colours. The baluflrades which furrounded the roof, were of a ferpentine form, covered with a flone as black as jet, and joined with a red and white ce- ment, which was very ornamental. Within the ba- luftrades, on each fide, was a marble flatue, fupport- ing a vafl candicllick, and between them a green flone, five fpans high from the rooi, and terminating in a point. On this ftone were thrown on their backs the human viJlims factiticed by the piicfls, who, after ripping them open with knives made of flint, tore out their hearts and ofl'crcd tli. in to their i Old Mexico.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. W iJol ; which was placed on an altar in an adjoining chapel of exquifitc materials and archite£ture, Thii image was of huma.i form, and fet on a throne fuf- rained by an azu;e globe, which thejr called Heaven. On the head was a helmet adorned with plumes of various colours. Its countenance was fevere and ter- rible, and much deformed hy two blue bands which bound the forehead and the nofe. In the right hand it held a twining ferpent, and in the left four arrows, which were revered as the gift of heaven : it alfo bore • ffaield, adorned with fine white plumes in the form of a crofs. Oppofite to this chapel was a fimilar building, in which was the image of Tlalock, another of their gods, refembling the former in every rcfpeA. Thofe two deities were cfleemed intimate friends, and poneiTed of the lame attributes. The walls and altars of the chapels were immenfely rich, covered with precious ftones, fet on feathers of various colours^ There were '.n Mexico eight temples of the like archite£iure, and equally rich, befides two thoufand lefs confpicuous, dedicated to as many gods, every fireet having its tutelar deity. Every d'ilrefs or ca- lamity had alfo its particular altar, to which votaries bad nccafional recourfe in their feveral complaints. In feveral of the ftreets were canals with bridges over them, and many thoufand boats piied upon the water, fur the fervice or pleafure of the inhabitants. Two vaft aqucduiSls were alfo made by the emperor MonceBuma, which fupplied the city with frefli wa- ter from a mountain at three miles diftance. The oihei chief towns of this province are, Aca- pulco, fituate in one hundred and two degrees twenty- nine minutes of weft longitude, and feventeen degrees two minutes of north latitude ; and Vera Cruz, lying in one hundred degrees of weft longitude, and nine- teen degrees ten minutes of north latitude, in the bay of Campcachy. Thither the flotilla arrives annually from Spain, to receive the treafures of Mexico, which are brought to this port for exportation. A great fair is held here at that feafon, but the air being un- wholfome the town contains few inhabitants at other times, except Mulattocs and Blacks. It is about two miles in circumference, and furr: unded on the land fide by ?, wall of no great ftrength. The • .dinary garrifon kept here by the Spaniards confifts only of a troop of fixty horfe, and two regiments of foot. In their pcrfons the Indians of Mexico refemble thofe of Terra Firma, In fome places the men wear their hktir fliort, and the women long ; but in others it is juft the reverfc. Particular tribes take much pains to render their co'intenances deformed, for which purpofe they not oniy prefs the nofes oi' their new-born infants, but fqueeze their heads between two boards, to render them flat and oblong ; while others mould their tender fkulls into th« ihape of a fugar-loaf. At prcfent it is net unufual for the Mexicans to go almofl entirely naked, but this Appears not to have been the praiStlce of the principal people, efpccially at the arrival of the Spaniards. We are informed, that Montezuma, the emperor, when he met Cortes at his entrance into Mexico, was cloathed in a robe of No. 50. fino |>ainted cotton-linen, which trailed upon the ground, and was almoft covered with jewels and pre- cious ftOnes. That he wore a crown of gold in the form of a mitrcj had liioes of hammered gold, and a kind of RomaA bufkin about his legs. That the high prieft wore on his head a crown of beautiful feathers of various colours, his ears adorned with emeraldt, fet in golden pendants ; and that he had on a veft, over which was a fine fcarlet robe. The genius of the people feeins vo have greatly de- clined fince the fubverfion of their empire, before which period they made cdnfiderable progrefs in fe- veral of the elegant arts. If we except the horrid pra£lice of offering huma 1 facrifices, into which their fuperftition had led them, they appear tb have fur* pafTed, in point uf hurr.Anity, thofe of their defcend- ants who are rendered fubje£l to the Spahiflt power. It is remarked, that the Indians who yet retain their liberty, difcover much better difpofitions, and are tainted with fewer vices, than thofe who live in ha* bitual intercourfe with the Europeans. Immoderate drinking, however, is the common vice of both. The fpirit they ufe is diftilled from the plant called magoy, of a very intoxicating quality, the excife of which, we are informed, amounted to one million one hundred thoufand pieces of eight per annum in the city of Mexico. On account of the many out* rages committed by the Indians when Intoxicated with this liquor, it was prohibited for fome time by the Spanifh government ; but this reftraint was after- wards taken off. The inabitants of Mexico are diftinguiOied into feveral clafles, viz. the native Indians ; the Spaniards and other Europeans j the defcendants of the Spa- niards unmixed, who are called Creoli ; the Meftices, or Meftics, the iflue of a Spaniard and an American ; the fiae Meftics, the iflTue of fuch iflue ; the Tere- croons des Indi'.s, the children of the latter inter- married with put'<; Spaniards j and the Quarteroon des indies, whofe pofterity enjoys the fame privilege* as pure Spaniards. Befides all thofe, the Blacks are alfo very nume- rous, who have been imported hither from Africa, and by fome means or other obtained their freedom. The ilTue of a Spaniard (or other European) by a female negro, is called a Mulattoe. The defcend' ants of this iiTue, though agi.in intermarried with Spa- niards, can never enjoy the privileges of that nation, unlefs they conceal their defcent, which they fre- quently do by removing from the place of their nati- vity. There is alfo a mixed breed of Negroes and Indians, whofe defcendants are excluded from the privileges of Spaniards, till their ar.ceftors are for- gotten ; and fome commonwealths of Blacks, in fe- veral parts of Mexico, that acknowledge no fubjeAion to the Spaniards. Thofe confift of the Negroes and their defcendants, who have run away from their matters into the woods and mountains. Thefe are become fo formidable that the Spaniards are obliged to enter into treaties with them, in order to avoid their depredations. The 6oo H B M N [America. The great quantity of th« precious metals in this country, was the inducement of the Spaniards to fix in Mexico., as well as in Peru and Chili. By much the greater part of the gold is found in the fands of their rivulets, in the feparating of which many thoufi>nd Indians art anmially employed. Some veins of gold are found in hard ftone, particularly the lapis lasuli. With refpe£l to the filver mines, they are chiefly difcovercd in barren rocks and mountains, though fometimes they are found in the plain fields. All the filver dug in the mines of Mexico, is brought to the Spanilh exchequer in the capital city, and there entered, except what is run and concealed, which amsunts to a great deal. It is affirmed, that in moft years, two millions of marks, of eight ounces •ach» are entered ; out of which they coin annually, in that mint, feven hundred thoufand marks into pieces of eight. Any peifnn who difcovers a mine of filver in Mex- ico, is at liberty to work it, paying dii- tenth of the produce to the king of Spain, whofe officers af- fign the difcoverer fixty yaids round the place where .he choofes to dig. Beyond this boundary another may open a mine, leaving five yards between them as a partition : and as they fink into the ground, one may work iiito another's diviflon, till be meets with his workmen, but no farther. The revenues which the king of Spain receives from Mexico are very conftderable, and arife chiefly from three fources, viz. the royal ihare of the treafure dug out of the mines, the duties of excife and cuf- tom, and the rents and fervices by which the pro- prretors hold their eflates. The king has only a tenth of the filver in Mexico, though he has a fifth of that in Peru ; becaufe in the former, the charge of purchafing quickfilver to refine the metal, is very great, whereas the Peruvians have mines of quick- filver in their country. In both thofe provinces, how- ever, the ciown receive: a fifth of all gold. , The annual amount of the cuftoms and excife muft be very great. The duty paid by the Manilla (hip, from the Ealt Indies, is computed to be little fhort of a hundred thoufand pieces of eight ; and the fhips which arrive from Peru and Europe annually, alfo pay very great duties to the crown. The ex- cife on magoy, already mentioned, is efleemed at one million one hundred thoufand pieces of eight in the city of Mexico. The third branch of the i-evenue, viz. the rents and fervices due to the crown, is reckoned to be equal, if not fuperior, to either of the former con- tingents. The pooreft married Indian pays four, fix, and in fome places eight rials (four fhillings} a year to the crown > and others in proportion to their eftates. Befides which there are lands held immedi- ately of the crown that pay very great rents. The traffic of Mexico is admitted to be among the riched and moil extenfive in the world. They trade with the Philippine Iflands near the coafl of China, through the Pacific Ocean ; with Peru and Chili, through the fame fea ; and with Old Spain and the Spanifh Iflands, through the North Sea and Atlantic 7 Ocean { all which trades are held lawful. There is alfo a very confiderable clandefline trade mitatained by the Mexicans and Indians on one fide, and the Englifli, French, and Dutch, on the other. I'he cargo of the Manilla (hip alone is of immenfe ve!u:. ic confifls cf diamonds, fapphires, rubies, and other precious flones, found in the Eafl-Indii. ■ of cinnamon, cloves, mace, nutmegs, and pepper ; of the rich carpets of Pe'fla ; the camphire of Borneo i the benjamin and ivory of Peru and Cambodia ; the filks, mullins, and callicoes of India s with the gold- dull, tea, china-ware, filk, cabinets, &c. of China and Japan. The town in Mexico to which this vef- f.-l fails, is Acapuico ; and it is computed that the Spanifh merchants make of profit a hundred and fifty, or two hundred per cent, by the voyage. The city of Acapuico, though the chief mart of the South Sea, is an exceeding mean village, the houfes confifling of nothing but wood, mud, and flraw. It is feated at the foot of high mountains, which cover it on the Eaft fide. The unwholefome temperature of the air, and the barrennefs of its en- virons, oblige the inhabitants to procure their pro> vifions from a diftance, which renders living very dear. The place, befidcs, i« fo dirty and inconve- nient that it is inhabited only by Blacks and Mulattoes. Very little maritime traffic prevails on the coafl of Mexico ; all goods being carried by mulei and pack* horfes from Acapako to the city of Mexico, whence they are tranfporred in the fame manner to Vera Cruz, on the North Sea, in order to be (hipped for Europe. The trade between Old Spain and the Spanifh do> minions in America is carried on by thirty or forty large vefTels, called galleons, which ate of good force. They fail in fleets annually from Cadiz, laden with the merchandize of almod every country in Europe ; the property of which belongs to almoft as many dif-. ferent nations, but chiefly to the Englifh, Dutch, Italians, and French. In this commerce the Spa> niards may be confidered only as faflors t for when the galleons return from America with the treafure for which thofe efFecSls have been fold, the greater part of it is diflributed among the merchants of the four nations lad mentioned, which is faid to be done with great fidelity. A clandefline trade is frequently carried on between Mexico and the fettlements of other European powers in America, particularly the Englifh, French, and Dutch, extremely advantageous to the latter, who are always paid for their merchandize in pieces of eight. The cutting of logwood in the Bays of Campeachy and Honduras, both fituated in the fouth of the gulf of Mexico, has proved the caufe of frequent difputes between Britain and Spain, which have been deter- mined by the latter acknowledging the right of Bri- ti(h fubjeils to fuch a privilege in the Bay of Hon- duras, if not in the other. Thofe two bays ate formed by the North Sea, in the fouth fide of the gulf of Mexico, and are feparatcd from each other by the province of lucatan, or Yucatan, a promontory of Mexico, fituated between eighty nine and ninety- four degrees of weft longitude, and between fixteen and New Mexico, &c.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. (hi and twenty-one degrees of north latitude. It is generally a flat level country, except towards the jlllimus ; and the land near the coafl being ufually flooded, as well as the air exceflive hot, it is thinly inhabited. The chief town in the Bay of Campeachy is a place of the fame name, lying in ninety-three degrees feven minutes of weA longitude, and in nine- teen degrees twenty minutes of north latitude. It is defended by a wall and forts, but has been repeatedly taken. The chief town in the Bay of Honduras is Valadulid. In this bay the Spaniards have neither any towns nor forts ; and the Mofquito Indians, who V.vr in the eaflern part of this province, are not only independent of the Spaniards, but have entered into treaties, and maintained for feveral years an amicable correfpondence with the fubjeiSts of Great Britain. Mexico, like Peru and Chili, is governed by a viceroy, appointed by the king of Spain ; but notwith- Handing the great importance of the province, fo in- conli<.-rable is the body of regular forces kept for its defence, that in the metropolis there are hardly five hundred foldiers ; and at Vera Cruz, the port of the greateft confequence on the North Sea, they have not half that number ; to which may be added, that their fortifications are as contemptible as their garrifons ; to that the Spaniards maintain the pofleOion of this vaft empire with as much facility as they acquired it. The conqueror of Mexico was Hernan Cortez, who failed thither in the year 1519, with fix hun- dred Spanifh troops and a few pieces of cannon on board, the country having been already difcovered, and called by the name of New Spain. In this ex- pedition, a Spaniard, who had been for fome time prifoner in Mexico, ferved him for an interpreter ; and he alfo derived confiderable fervice from an In- dian lady, whom he caufed to be baptized by the name of Marina. After a variety of adventures, he penetrated as far as TIafcala, then a republic, where he firft experienced any material oppofition. But proving fuccefsful in his encounters with the Indians, they formed an alliance together, and the latter af- fifted him in fubduing Mexico, of the grandeur of which they were jealous. After fome timefpentin negociation with the emperor Montezuma, Cortez at length advanced towards his capital, which he not only entered without any refiftance, but was e\'en received by the emperor with an afFe(3ed Coniplaifance, and both he and his men were lodged in the city. A fuccecding event however difcovered the real difpofition of the Mexican monarch towards the Spanilh adventurers. Some difpute arifing between thofe and the Indians, feveral of the former were flain on the road to Mexico, and the head of one of them fcnt to Montezuma, whofe approbation betrayed the authority by which the a£l had been perpetrated. As foon as this tranfa£lion was known to Corte'< . he obliged Montezuma to furrender the aggreiTorc, mak- ing him at the fame time a prifoner in his own palace, and conftraining him to acknowledge that he held his empire of Charles V, The unfortunate em- peror did not long furvive this humiliating incident, being killed by a (lone, thrown by one of his own fubje£ls, while he was endeavouring to appeafe an in- furreAion which had broke forth among them. On the death of Montezuma, the people elefted Guatimo7,in their emperor, a prince of a warlike dif- pofition, and who make great efForis for delivering his country from the power of the invaders. After feveral obAinate ingagements, the Spaniards were forced to quit the city, and retreat towards TIafcala, where rallying their troops, they not only routed the Mexicans in a battle at land, but were alfo vi(3orious in an aflion upon the lake, in which nine Spaniflt boats, with three hundred foldiers on board, defeated five thoufand veflels of the natives, containing ten thoufand men. Thofe repeated fuccefles confirmed to the Spaniards the fovereignty of Mexico, and their triumph became complete by taking Guatimozin, as he was endeavouring, by the way of the lake, to make his cfcape from the city. Their treatment of this unfortunate prince, however, was diftinguiflied by an aft of barbarity, among the moft attrocious upon record. Being accufcd of concealing his own gold from the invaders, be was inhumanly burnt alive, by order of the king of Spain's treafurer. NEW MEXICO, CALIFORNIA, and LOUISIANA NEW Mexico, including California, is fituate be* twcen one hundred and four and one hundred .and thirty-fix degrees of weft longitude, and between the tropic of Cancer and forty- fix degrees of north latitude. It is bounded on the north by unknown lands, on the eafl by Louifiana, on the fouth by Old Mexico, and on the weft by the Pacific Ocean. The country is faid to be temperate and fruitful, and a- bounds in rich filver mines, the moft confiderable of which are thofe of St. Barba, The chief city of New Mexico is Santa Fe, fiiuatcd feven hundred and fifty miles north of the city of Old Mexico, and feven hundred miles weft of the river Miffifippi. Sir Francis Drake, in the year ffS, on hi* voyage round the world, took pofleflion of Califor- nia in the name of queen F.lizabeth, and gave it the name of Nova Albion ; but the EngliOl never availing themfelves of this tranfadion, the country has hither- to beci confidered as part of the Spanifti dominions. Though it was the height of fummer when the ad- miral arrived on this coaft, the weather was extreme* ly cold. The houfes of the inhabitants were built near the water fide ; the fire was made in the middle, and the people lay round it on ruflies. The women wore about their waift a covering of buU-ruflies, manu- fa£iured in the manner of hemp, and they had com- monly a deer (kin flung over their fhoulders ; but the men were quite naked. They fent the admiral a prefent of fome featheri and net-work cauls j after which a larger body wait- ed on him with another prefent, confiding of fcvera! curious feathers and fome bags of tobacco. Then one of them having, from the top of a little hill, at the bottom of which the admiral had pitched fome tents. 'm i 6oa H M D R N [America. ttnti, made : long harangue, which feemed to be addrefled to the commander, he dercciiJed, accom- panied by a numeroui aflembly, who, after laying down their arms, paid obedience to the admiral. The women however remained above i and by feveral firange ceremoniea, fuch as tearing their hair, and howling hideoufly, it was inferred that they were at fa- crifice, which proved to be th' cafe. In the mean time the admiral ordered divine fervice to be celebrated, with the folemnity of which the natives feemed to be much afTefled. A few days after, two perfons, in the chara£)er of ambafladort, waited upon the admiral, one of whom made a fpeech for near half an hour ; from which it was underflood that the king intended to pay him a vifit, provided hij majefly might, by fome par- ticular fign, be aflured of a peaceful reception. This being promifed, the king foon made his appearance with a large train, which fupported a rude, yet tefpeAable dignity, the common people fhouting round him the whole way. I'he king, who was a well made man, of a noble afpe£t and majeftic deport- ment, was preceded by a perfon of comely appear- ance, bearing in his hand a fceptre, to which were appended two crowns, made of net-work, curioufly wrought with feathers, and three chains of a bony fubftance, which were efleemed by the natives marks of honour. He was furrounded by a guard of tall well looking men, adorned on this occafion with rabbit (kins. Then followed the common people, in a promifcuous crowd, fome with their faces painted black, fome white, or other colours, every perfon, even the children, bearing fomething by way of pre- fent. The admiral drew up all his men in military order, to receive them, and (locd within the fences of his tent, at fome diftance from which the proceiEon halted, and obferved a profound filence. Then the fceptre- bearer, having made a fpeech of about half an hour's length, ftruck up a dance, and at the fame time began a fort of fong, in both which he was fol - lowed by the king and the whole alTembly. The king then made feveral fpeeches to the admiral, who perceiv- ing that they harboured no hoftile intentions, allowed them to enter the bulwarks which he ere£led for de- fence. At this interview the king furrendered to Drake his dominions, with the unanimous confent of his people, putting his own crown upon his head, and invelling him with other enfigns cf royalty. The refpefl which the people (hewed for the ad- miral's men, proceeded fo far that they even offered them facrifices, efpecially to the youngeft j nor was it without difficulty that they were reflraincd from this profanation. Louifiana, or New France is bounded on the weft by New Mexico ; on the north by the river and lakes of Illenois i on the eaft by Florida, Georgia, the two Caroliiias, and Virginia } and on the fouth ^y the gulf of Mexico. This vaft tra£l is interfe£)ed by the Mi/nfippi, a large navigable river, rifing in Cana- da, and running fouthward into the gulf of Mexico. The country received its name from the French, who claimed the property of it for feveral years ; but by the peace of 1763, they ceded to Great Britain all that part of it which lies eaft of the Miflifippii and iit the year following, relinquiflied to Spain the territo- ries on the weft of that river. It is faid to be a fruit- ful province, but moflly uncultivated, and thin of in- habitants. To conclude our account of the Spanifh provinces in America: the eflential maxim which runs through the whole political oeconomy of the court of Spain, in refpe£l of thofe territories, is the keeping them in abfolute dependence. The natural- born Spaniards are fulely vcfled with command throughout all the Spanifh Indies, and they alone enjoy all pofts of honour, emo- lument, or truft. 7'his plan of adminiftration, how- ever greatly weakens their European dominions, by the frequent draughts of fubjedls fent thither for the purpofcof government, at the fame time that it occa- fions an irreconciieable antipathy between the Euro- pean Spaniards and the Creoles, or thofe born of Spanifh parents, in the Weft Indies. The former not only difcourage agriculture and manufa<£tures, as much as lies in their power, but endeavour to en- creafe idlencfs, and even luxury among the natives, with the view of rendering them yet more dependent on Spain. If we add to thofe confiderations the ex- treme rapacity and oppreifion exercifed by the Spanifli governors, the American provinces under their jurif- diiElion afford an example of the moft wretched flavery^ and jarring interefts, that ever fubfifted within fo r%- tenfive an empire. WEST FLORIDA. QUITTING the Spanifli dominions in North America, we arrive in thofe of Great Britain, the firft of which, in our route, is the country of Florida. This name was originally given by the Spaniards to all that part of the continent, which lies north of the gulph of Mexico, but it is now rcftridl- ed to the territory on the coaft of that fea, fo far north as Georgia, and between the river Miffifippi and the Atlantic Ocean. It is divided into two pro- vinces, vix. Weft and Eaft Florida, which are fe- parated from each other by the river Apalachiola. The face of this country is for the moft part level, but extremely well watered. About twelve miles from the mouth of the river MifTifippi, a branch of it runs eaftward, which, after a courfe of a hundred and fix- ty miles, falls into the north-weft end of the bay of Spiritu San£io. At (irft it is very narrow and of little depth i but afterwards, by the accelTion of other flreams, becomes navigable to the largeft boats and (loops, and forms feveral pleafant lakes, particularly that of Pontchartrain. Eaftward of the Mi/TiUppi, this province is watered by the Coza, otherwife called Mobile, a large river, rifing in the Apalachian mountains, or that great chain of hills, which extends from north to fouth, on the back of our fetilements in North America. The country East FloIuda.] I GENERAL TRAVELLER. 603 country lying on the fides of the river ii reckoned the mnll iileafant and fruitful of the province, and is alfo very populous. Here prunes grow naturally in the iields, better than can be produced in Spain by cul- ture i and though there are fomc vines that creep on the ground, there are others, in almod all the places near the bank uf any rivulet, which mount to the tops of the trees. The piincipal harbour on the coaftof Weft Flori- da, is Penfacola, fituate in cighty-feven degrees twen- ty-four minutes of weft longitude, and in thirty de- grees thirty-five minutes north latitude. It is a large port, well fheliercd from all winds, having four fa- thom of water at the entrance, and deepening gra- duiilly to '"even or eight. On the weft fide of the har- bour (lands the town of Penfacola, the capital of the province, A fine rivrr, which comes about a hun- dred miles out of the country, enters the bay of Mexico on the caft fide of this harbour. The foil here is a barren fand, but produces many pine-trees, fit for fliip mafts. Thirty leagues eaft of Penfacola lies Apalache Co- la, another good harbour. Along the coaft of this province there are vaftbeds of oyfters, that produce pearls. Ambergris alfo is often found ; and, cfpecially after high winds, a fort of ftone pitch, which the Spaniards often mix with greafe, and ufe for careening their veflels. They confidcr it as preferable to pitch for this purpofe, in hot climates, on account of its not being apt to melt with the heat of the fun. On both fides of the Miflii.,!)' :here are many fprings and lakes, ^hich produce excellent fait. The country abounds in rich mines of copper. Iron, lead, pit-coal, and quick- filver ; and in many parts, there are great quantities of orpiment and fandarach. The land in the interior parts of this province is reckoned very fertile, and its fituation for trade ex- tremely good, efpecially towards the Miflifippi. The number of inhabitants are computed at about eight thoufand, and they continue to increafe faft fince the peace. They carry on a great tiade with the Indians, and export large quantities of deer (kins and furs. From the climate, and the variety of tropical as well as northern produflions, that are natives of this coun- try, there is reafon to expeift that cotton, rice, and indigo, not to mei.tion fugar, might thrive here ex- ceeding well. EAST FLORIDA. Tj' AST FLORIDA is bounded on the north ■*-^ by St. Mary's river, on the eaft by the Atlantic Ocean, and on the fouth and weft by the Gulph of Mexico. It flretchcs from north to fouth in the form of a pcninfula, about three hundred and fify miles in length i being .near two hundred and forty miles broad at the northern extremity, and at the fouthern, or Cape Florida, between thirty and forty miles. Fur fcveral miles towards the coaft, the country is low and flat, interfered by a great number of rivet*} No. 50. but in the more interior parts it becomes a little hilly, and in fome places rocky. The foil in genera! is a light fand. This country differs materially from the other parts of America in one circumftance, which is that almoft all the uncultivated traifls of the continent ate covered with a thick foreft ; but here the trees are at a dif- tance from one another, and the ground is clear of under-wood. The temperature of the air in Eaft Florida is the moft equable of any in the Britilh dominions, Tho' lying between the twenty-fifth and thirty-firft degrees of north latitude, yet the peninfula not being broad, the climate is more ccol, and oftener refreflicd with rains, than on the continent ; befides that the heat is mitigated in the day-time by a fea breeze, and at night by a land-wind, the winters are h mildj that the tendereft plants of the Weft Indies, fuch as' the pine- apple, the banana, the alligator pear-tree; the plantain, ice. are hardly ever hurt by any incle- mency of the feafon. Fogs and dark gloomy wea- ther are here unknown. At the equinoxes, efpecially the autumnal, the rains fall very heavy every day, from eleven o'clock in the morning till four in the afternoon, for fome weeks fuccefltvely ; but at thd ceftation of thofe periodical rains, the (kf always clears up, and the fun (hines out again. This country is reckoned fo wholefome on account of the mildnefs of the feafons, and the purity of the air, that many Spaniards refort thither every year from the Havannah and other places, for the benefit of their health ; confidering the climate in the fame light as the northern nations of Europe regard the fouth of France, The produflions of the northern and fouthern la- titudes ilourifh here together, and in no part of the Britifh dominions is there found fo great a variety of trees, plants, and (hrubs. Among many others, are the white and red pine, the fpruce fir, the ever-' green oak, the -hefnut oak, the mahogany, red bav, walnut, hickory, black cheny, mapple, oak, locuft, and logwood-trees ; the red and white mulberry tree, of which the forefts arc full, and which grow to i larger fize than in any other part of America. Here ate alfo the fuftic and braziletto, fafTafras and balfami of Tolu trees, the magnolia, tulip-laurel, and tufTe- low trees, fo much admired for their beauty. All the fruit- trees, except an indifferent fort of plum, and a fmall black cherry, have been imported from Europe, and thrive exceeding well. The orange here is larger and better flavoured than in Spain or Portugal, and is fo well adapted to the climate, that it grows with great luxuriance. Lemons, limes, citrons, pomegranates, figs, apricotSj peaches, &c. grow alfo in great perfefiion. The myrtle-wax Oirub is found in all forts of foils, in fuch plenty, that were there hands enough to ga- ther the berries, they could fupply all England with wax. The procefs of obtaining this commodity is very finiple. They bruife the berries, and afterwards boil them in v/ater, (kimming off the wax, which is naturally of a bright green colour. It may, how- ' 7 L ever, 6o4 H M R N AmericaJ ever, be Ucacbcd like beei-wax, and, on account I of ita hardncfs, ia wrU adapted fur candles in hot countrici. Th? feet flirub, farfaparilla, china root, wild in- digo, v.'ater and mulk melons, are alfo injjigenoui plants of this country. The domeAic animals are in general the fame here as in Europe, and there is plenty of all kinds of game that is common to the climate. Here is alfo a great variety of birds, numbers of which migrate hither in winter, to avoid the cold of the northern la- titudes. The woods abound w!ih wild turkeys, bet- ter tafted as well as larger than thofe in England ( nor are the rivers lefs plentifully lored vt' It their peculiar produce. Notwitbftanding the deOitute ftate in which this country has remained for fcveral years, fince the na- tive Indians were exterminated by the Creeks, it is molefled by few infc£is or reptiles of a noxious qua- lity. For the Creek Indians, who are difperfed over the province, are conftantly fetting the grafs on fire, for the convenience of hunting ; by which means not only the infects, but alfo their eggs, are deftroyed. There is here, however, an infect unknown in other parts of America. This is a large yellow fpider. The hind parts of its body is bigger than a pigeon's egg, and the reft in proportion. Its web refembles a yellow filk, and is fo fl.ong as to -atch fmall birds, upon which the infedl feeds. The bii; of this fpider is attended with the fwelling of the part,, and great pain, but never produAive of any more da.-igcrous confequence. Hert is likewife a great variety of harm- lefs lizards, fome of which are very beautiful, and change their colours like the cameleon. The number of inhabitants being at prefcnt but fmal), no great degree of improvement car, as yet be cxpefted to take place ; but fome good fettlements are begun ; and it is probable, that in a few years longer the exports of this province will be confiderable. In both the Floridas the lands arc not fold as in the ceded iflands, but given upon certain conditions, whiwh it is the interrA of the grantee to perform. The refervation made to the crown is only a half- penny an acre, after the expiration of three, five, or ten years, according to the extent of the grants. Thofe two provinces were ceded to Great Briuin by the peace of 1763, fince which time they have been formed into diftiniSl fettlements, and have each their rcfpeAivc governor. England has an undoubted right to Florida ever fince the reign of Henry VII, by whofe commiflion Seballian Cabot, in 1496, difcovered all this coad, fixteen years before it was vifited by any other Eu- ropean nation. Afterwards indeed the Spaniards made frequent defcents upon the continent, towards the flraits of Bahama, but theif cruelties fo much exaf- perated the natives that they were totally expelled. From this period Florida remained neglected by Europe till the reign of Charles IX. king of France, when the celebrated admiral ChatilloR procured two veflcis to be fitted out for difcoverics upon this coaft, in 156}. In two months the adventurers artired in the province of North C.irolina, near the river now called Albemarle. I'hc French giving the lndiui«i co undcrftand, in the bed manner they could, that thry were enemies to the Spaniardr, obtained a fiicnilly reception, but were in no conditibn to make any fet- tlcment at this time. In two years after, however, the admiral fitted out five or fix fliips, curryinc; as many hundred men on board, with the view of cDa. blifhing a colony. They directed their couife tu the fame place at which they had landed in the former expedition, where they built a fort about two miles up the river May, now called St. Johii'!>, which they named fort Caroline. Next year the Spaniards difpatched a confiderable force, under the cunmianj of Don Pedro Menendcz do Avilcz, to attack the infant colony. Not fatisfied with reducing the furr, they put all the poor garrifon to the fword, after quarter had been given, and farther exafprrated tho natives by fucceeding i£is of cruelly. The new in> vaders, however, took Foit St. Augufline, and once more took pufleflion of the country in the name of the king of Spain, The French admiral had by this time fallen a fa- crifice in the horrible maflacre at Paris, and with him expired the projefl of eftablifliing a colony in Ame- rica, But a private gentleman, named M. de Gor« ques, fitted out fume (hips at his own charge, with the view of revenging the outrages committed by tho Spaniards on his countrymen and their allies. I'he Indians eagerly embracing the opportunity of indulge ing their refcntment, joined their forces with thofe of the French, and immediately laid fiege to fome forts which the 'Spaniards had creifled j which as foon as they had reduced, they put the garrifon to the fword without mercy. Satisfied with having accomplifhed the delign of their expedition, the French adventurers returned ; and the Spaniards, in fome time after, fortified and improved the fettlement which they had begun at St. Augufline, In 1585, fome private adventurers in England fitted out a fleet of twenty fail of fliips and pinnaces, under the comma.id of Sir Francis Oiakc and Martin Fro- bifher, who attacked Fort Caroline, now called Kort St. Juan, which being in a defenceicfs condition, was abandoned by the Spaniards. In this place Drake found fourteen pieces of brafs cannon, and about two thoufand pounds in cafh, which fcem to have been all the fruits of this expedition againfl Florida. The Spaniards conflanily maintained their garrifon at St. Auguftine, in fpite of feveral attempts to reduce it, by the Carolinians, and afterwards by general Ogle- thorpe, till the conclufion of the laft war, when the whole territory of Florida, including Louifiana, tho town and ifland of New Orleans excepted, was ceded to the ctown of Great Britain. GEORGIA. /'^F.ORGIA ic bounded on the fouth bj Florida; ^^ on the weft by the Indian nations towards the MifTifippi ; on the north by South Carolina, from which Geokcia.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. m which it it feparaled by the river Savannah ; and on the call by the Atliintic Oct-jn. This is in general a level country, though intcrfperfed with numerous gentle rifings ; and where the ground has not been cleared by the planters it is covered with trees, but hardly any underwood. Near the Tea, its extent from fouth to north is about fixty miles : but in the inland parts it widens to about a hundred and hfty. Its length from the coalt to the Apalachian mountains is near three hundred miles. Like mod of the countries in America, the climate is liable to fudden and violent changes, which obliges the inhabitants to be particu- larly cautious in their drefs. Thunder and lightning alfo happen frequently, and fometimes hurricanes ; but the latter are not near Co formidable as thofe in the Weft-Indies, From about the middle of March till that of June the weather is extremely agreeable} but in July, Auguft, and the greater part of Sep- tember, the heat is intenfe. The winter is generally very mild i and though the air is fometimes (harp, cfpecially when the north-v/eft wind blows, this hap- pens only in the mornings and evenings, feldom rifing to fuch a degree as to freeze water of any conflderable depth. The foil of this country varies in diiFerent parts of the colony, but in general it produces rice, indigo, cotton, Indian corn, wheat, oats, barley, potatoes, pompions, melons, cucumbers, peas, beans, and fallads of all kinds, throughout the year. NeiSatines, plums, and peaches, grow naturally in great plenty, and by cultivation might be rendered equal, if not fuperior, to thofe of Europe. Grapes grow wild, and ripen in June, Apple and pear trees thrive well, as does likewife the apricot. I'he white and black mulberry-trees arc in gieat plenty, and might afford excellent nouriflimcnt for worms, the propagation of which was one of the principal inducements for fettling this colony. Orange a.id olive trees arrive at perfc£lion, efpecially in the fouthern parts of Georgia. The chief timber trees are oaks, of fix or feven fpe- cies, pines, hiccory, cedar, cyprefs, walnut, fafla- fras, and beech, befides many other trees unknown in Europe, and a great variety of flowering fhrubs. From the beginning of November to March game is very frequent. It confifts of a fmall kind of wood- cocks and partridges, large wild turkeys, turtle- doves, wild geefe, ducks, and teals, with immenfe quan- tities of wild pigeons, and other birds peculiar to the country, 2)uring the fummer the inhabitants kill deer and fummer ducks. Tigers, bears, and the opolTum, are common here ^ and the woods abound with cattle, wolves, racoons, and fnakcs ; but none of them are venomous, except the rattle- fnake. The rivers, however, are full of alligators and (harks. The chief town of Georgia is the Savannah, fuuated on the river which forms the northern boundary oi' the province, in one hundred and one degrees twenty minutes of wcfl longitude, and in thiity-two degrees of north laiiiudc. It {lands about ten miles from the Tea, and the river is navigable for large boats '.wo hundred miles farther ; at which place is Augufta, the fecond town in the colony, lying in a fertile fpot, and commodioully fituated for the Indian trade, I'he bordering Indian nations are, the Upper and Lower Creeks, the Chickefaws, and the Cherokees } fome of the moft powerful tribes in America. Th* trade of (kins with thofe people is the greaiefl we hnvc. We alfo deal with them for furs, which are of an inferior quality to what are produced in the provinces farther towards the north. At the hiA fettlement of this colony fanguine ex- peflations were formed with rclpoTl to the cultivation of vines and filk t and in 1739 a fpecimen of Georgian filk was fent to London, and declared by two very eminent merchants, who dealt in that com- modity, to be as good as any raw filk imported from Italy. The inhabitants of the province, however, being then but few, and their attention chiefly directed to the cultivation of the ground, this manufaflure, which might prove fo beneficial, was neglefled, nor has any attempt hitherto been made towards reviving the projeft. This province emerges very flowly from the difHculties which attended its firft edablifhment, and is Aill but indifferently peopled, though fettled upwards of forty years. It exports fome corn and lumber to the Weft- Indies; raifes fome rice, and has lately applied much to the cultivation of indigo. There is no commodity from which a planter, with a fmall capital, derives fo great profit as from the manufadlure of indigo. The plant, or rather weed, of which this dye is made, is, when young, hardly to be diftinguifhed from lucern-grafs, but when come to maturity has much the appearance of fern. It generally grows to the height of about two foot, thd leaves are round, of a green colour, inclining towardt brown on the upper fide, but underneath of a filver colour, and pretty thick. I'he flowers are red, re* fembling thofe of peas ; and from them proceed long crooked pods, containing a fmall feed like that of radilh, of an olive colour. The manner of planting it is as follows ; the ground being firft cleared of all other vegetables, holes are made .: the diftance of a foot from each other, in every one of which ten or twelve feeds are thrown, and then lightly covered with earth. In three or four days, efpecially if there has been rain, the plant will appear ; and in fix weeks, or two months, be ready for cutting and making indigo. I'hc time of fowing is commonly after the firft rains which fucceed the vernal equinox^ and confequently the firft cutting, for there are fome« times three, muf be about the beginning of July ; the fecond is towards the end of Auguft ; and if the feafon proves favourable, the third and laft cutting is obtained about Michaelmas, During all this time the plantation muft be attended with the greateft care, the land muft be weeded every day, and the plants carefully cleanfed from the worms. To a plantation of fifty acres about twenty-five negroes are allotted. Every acre, if the land be good, produces fixty or feventy pounds weight of indigo i the medium is com- puted at fifty. The whole apparatus ncceflary for the manufaiflure of indigo confifts of a pump, and vats or tubs, made of cyprefs wood. The firft vat, called the fterper, is from 6o6 H B M O D R N [AmerVca. from twelve to fourteen feet fquare, ami abmit four feet deep. In this the indigo plant in laid to the height of fourteen inches | and in about twelve or fixteen hours, after the water has be»n let into the vat, it begins to ferment When this procefs has attained its due pitch, (he liquor Is conveyed, by means of a cock, into another vat, called the beater. The dregs remaining in the deeper are ufed for ma- nuring the ground, and new cuttings arc put in a> long as ihe harveft continues, The liquor in the fecnnd vat becoming ftrongly impregnated with particles of indign, next undergoes the operation of what is called the beating, which i> performed with a fort of bottnm1cf» buckets, with long handles. During the fpace of twenty or thirty minutes, more or lefs, according to the temperature of the air, the liquor is ftrongly agitated by means of thofc machines, till it rifes above the ri n of the vat; but fliould the fermentation thus occarioned prove too violent, it is indantly allayed I working tools, ftnrcs, and fmall arms, above one hundred labouring people, who offered thcmfelvcs by the beginning of November following, and were im- mediately fent over, under the care of ' . Ogle- thorpe, one of the trudees, who gener^ ,y bellowed his time and pains, without any reward, fur the im- provement of the colony. The new fcttlers ar- rived at Charles Town in Carolina, the 15th of Ja- nuary," 1733, where they were received bv governor Johnfon, and the inhabitants with great marks cf kindnefs, and were prefented by the aflcmbly with a hundred breeding cattle, twenty-five hogs, and twenty barrels of rice. Departing thence with a fmall body of rangers and feveral fcout boats, they foon reached the river Savannah, on the bank of wliii h Mr. Ogle- thorpe fixed upon the fpot for building their town, in a place originally Inhabited by a nation called Yamacraw, of which Tomo Chichi was chief. As foon as the town was creeled, they began to clear the ground, and in a (hort time fowed it with wheat. The truftces, refledling that many of our colonies had been endangered, by fuffering the negroes to rx- ceed the whiles fo much in number, prohibited the Importation of negroes into Georgia, not only with the view of inuring the planters to a habit of Induftry, but of exciting a fpirit to defend thcmfelves againft any incurfions of the Spaniards, agreeably to their fi- tuation as a frontier province. It was imagined like- wife, that the introduiHion of negroes fo near a Spa- nlfli fort, would have facilitated the defertion of the Carolinian negroes to St. Auguftlne. The truftces likewifc obferving, what great mif- chiefs had arlfen in other colonies, from vaft grants of land, which the grailtees either Jobbed out again, to the difcouragement of fcttlers, or fuffered to lie uncultivated j affigned only twenty-five acres to each inhabit.int ; and none could by any means arrive at the pnfuffion of more than five hundred, Neither were thofe lands granted in fee-fimple, or to the heirs. general of the fcttlers, but were inheritable on- ly by the male iftue, confiftcntly with the military plan on which this colony had been founded. The importation of rum was alfc nrohibited, to pre- vent the great diforders obfcrvci. >o happen in other colonics, from the abufe of fpirituous liquors. The Lower Creefc. nation, confifting of eight coii- fedcratiil mon. Carolina.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. feclerjtcd tribes, hearing of thii new colony, Tent a numcroui deputation, compofcd of their cliieft inJ w:irriotd, to treat uf an alliance with it. At an au- dience given them by Mr. Oglethorpe, Ouceka- cluimpi, in the name of the whole nation, clulmcd all the lands from the river S;ivannah as far as St. Au- gulline, and up Flint River, which falls into the bay of Mexico; but he .ifknowledged the fuperiority of the Engl'.fh, whofc arrival in that part he cun- fidercd as a happy event; ami declared that they wcic welcome to the lands which the Creeks did rot ufe for their fubftnence. Soon after the conclufinn of this treaty, Mr, Oglethorpe returned to Charles Town, in order to embark for England. After his departure the fame of the new colony reached the Natches, who like- wife made an alliance w'(h the inhabitants of Geor- gia. In the middle of May, a fhip arrived at the Sa- vannah with paflcngirs and ftores, and foon after another with fifty families ; the whole embarkation amounting to fix hundred and eighteen pr in- cluding women and children. From th ^cs ac- counts, in March 1734, it appeared, tiiat they had received, towards fettling the province, near fifteen thoufaiid pounds, of which they had expended about eight thoufand two hundred. In 1734, the (hip in which Tomo Chichi, who had vifitcd England, embarked for Aincrica, carried over likev/ifc a number of German proteftants from Saltfburg, who, with others of their countrymen that afterwards arrived, were fixed at a fpot on the Sa- vannah, where they built a town called Ebeneeer, which, by their induftry and fobriety, foon became a confidcrable fcttlcment. The planters of Georgia now made rapid progrefs in clearing their lands, and the Britifh parliament a- gain granted them a fupply of twenty-fix thoufand pounds, which, with very confidcrable private dona- tions, was expended upon (Irengthcning their fouth- ern frontier. For this fctvice the trudccs procured a hundred and flxty Scotch Highlanders, who were fent over in 1735, and fettled upon Alatamaha River, (ixtccn miles, by water, from the ifland of St. Si- mon, where they built a fort, mounted with four pieces of cannon, which they named Darien, and n fmall town, called New Invernefs. In February, 1736, Mr. Oglethorpe arrived a fecond time at Sa vannah, with about three hundred more emigrants ; forty- feven of whom being Englifll, were fettled on the Ifland of St, Simon, which, with all the adjacent iflands was voluntarily ceded by the Creek Indians. The remainder of this emigi;»ion built another town, called Frcderica. In September the fame year, u was ftipulated be- tween Mr. Cgtethorpc and the governor of St. Au- guftine, that the Britifh (hould evacuate the fort built upon the ifland of St. George, forty miles north of Augufline, near the influx of the river St. John ; but that thic evacuation (hould not afTcfl his Bri- tannic majelly's right to the faid ifland, or any other of his claiihs upon the American continent. ■ ' No. 50. 60/ Theinhnbiinnti of Ebcnezer difliklrg Iti fltuation, lequefled to be Icttled nearer the river, where a town was accordiii|ily maikcd out for them. Mr. Oiglft. thorpe next turned hii attention towards completing P'ort Frcdciica, upon the ifland of St. Simon, which, including its out-works, fornii a regular fquare, with four baflioni, furrounded by a ditch. He afierwardt marked out another fort, on an illi>nd ac the mouth of JehoH'i Sound, which he ninned Cumberland ifland. - I 1 In 1737, (he deprtJationa daily committed by tha Spaniards on lh«> Uriii(h by fea, threatening a war between the two nations, the Britifh i^overnincnt, in confequenco of advice that the Spaniards were medli> lat'ng an attack on the infant colony of Georgia, and at the requcfl of the trulteci, fend thither a rciriinentof fix hundred men for its protection. As an encourage* ment to this body of troops, they granted each foldief five acres of land, for his own ufe and benefit during his continuance in the country, with permiflion to quit the fervice at the end of feven years, if defired« and an additional grant of fifteen acres of land. The parliament this year voted the colony a frefh aid of twenty thoufand pounds, which enabled the truftcei to fend over another embarkation of foreign pro* teftants. It was now found by experience, that foinc errori had been committed in framing the conftitution of the colony. The regulation* concerning inheritance, negroes, fpirituoui, liquors, and the quantity of landt affigned lo each perfon, though well intended, fecmcd neither to anfvver the nature of the country, nor thd difpofition of the people, who openly exprefled a ge« neral difcontent at all thofe reftri£lions. They re« monftrated on this fubje^ to the crullees ; but meer« ing with no .ititfadiion, many of them quitted (Tcorgia, and retired to fome of the other colonies 1 fo that, of above two thoufand people, who had mi- grated from Europe in a little time, not more than feven hundred remained in Georgia. At length the government revoked the charter, and took the pro* vince into their own hands, annuliiig all the regula* tions that had been made, and leaving the country exaftly on the fame fjoting with Carolina. •> ni CAROLINA. THIS country is bounded on the fouth Vf Georgia, on the weft by the Indian nations to* , wards the Miflifippi, on the north by Virginia, and on the eaft by the Atlantic ocean ; lying betweeit feventy-fivc and eighty-fix degrees of weft longitude^ and between thirty-one and thirty fix degrees of north latitude. It is divided into two provinces, vib. South and North Carolina. Together they are wa* tercd by ten navigable rivers, which run a long courfe, and are joined by innumerable fmaller ftream>« all abounding in fifli. About fifty or fixty mile* from the fea, moft of the great rivers have catara£ts| which become more frequent the nearer we advance 7 M towards 6o8 T H M N [Amrrica. towudi th«ir fourcei t •* it th* c«rc with almofl ill the American riven. At thole ralli, thr traderi land their goodt, and conveying them by horfcs or waggont bejond tlie obftru£)ion, afterwardt leOiip them. The climate, face, and produce of the country are nearly the fame with thofe of Georgia t and the quality of the foil, in the diffierent parti, may be known from the fpcciei of treea which it the moft pre- valent. The ground! which bear the oak, the wal- nut, and the hickory, are extremely fertile. They confift of a durk fand, mixed with limei and ai here ■II the land abounds with nitre, the planters never ufe any manure The foil dilliiiguifhed by the name of the pine-barren, it the worft, being almoll entirely a white fand i yet it naturally bears the pine-tree, which yields good profit in tar, pitch, and turpentine. When cleared, this kind of land, for two or three years, produces tolerable good cropt of Indian corn and peafe, and when flooded, anfwers well for rice. It alfo affords one of the forts of indigo, which is fo profitable a commodity in thofe countries. There ia another kind of ground which lies low and wet, upon the banks of fome of the rivers, called fwamps, which, though almoft ufelefs in fome places, proves in others the richeft of all the lands. Thofe grounds confift of a black fat earth, and bear rice in the greateft plenty and perfeAion, which is the greateft flaple of this province, and requires a rich moift foil. The country near the fea is the lead fruitful, moft of the land thereabouts being a fpecies of the pale, light, fandy-coloured ground { but the fell i'liproves in proportion to the diftance from the coaft j and a hundred miles beyond Charles Town, where the country grows hilly, it is extremely fertile. Here like, wife the air is pure and wholefome, and the furtimcr heats 'ouch lefs intemperate than in the flat country. Wheat grows well in the back country, and yields an extraordinary increafe ; but in the other parts of Carolina it is little cultivated, being apt to mildew, and fpend itfelf in ftraw. Thofe evils the planters take very little pains to prevent, turning their atten- tion chiefly to the culture of rice, which is much more profitable ; and they are fupplied from New York and Penfylvania, with the wheat they want, in exchange for this grain. The land is every where eafily cleared, there be- ing little or no underwood. The ufual method is to cut the trees at about a foot from the ground, and then faw them into boards, or convert them into fiaves, headling, or other fpecies of lumber, accord- ing to the nature of the wood, or the demands at the market. If they lie too fat from a navigable river, they are heaped together, and left to rot. The roots foon decay ; and before this happens, little or no inconvenience is found from them, where land is fo plenty. The animals natural to the country, are deer, which are very numerous; a kind of tygers, bears, wolves, extraordinary thing to ponefs above three nr four cows, but fo amasingly have black cattle niultiplic.l, that it is nut uncommon for a planter at prefcitt (o have a thoufand, and in North Carolina many more. Thofe ramble all day in tho forclli j but their calves bring kept in fenced pafturcs, the cowt return to them every evening, where after lieinjj milked, kept all night, and milked in the morning, they are again let loofe. The hogs, which arc vaftly numerous, range in the fame manner, and like them return, by having {heU-.t and food provided fur thViu at the plantation. The woods alfo contain many wild cattle, hurfcs, and fwine, though at the firll efta> blifliment of this colony, none of thofe animals ex- ifted in the province, Tlie capital of the province is Charles Town, fi- tuate in fcventy-ninc degrees twelve minutes of weft longitude, and thirty-two degrees thirty minutes of north latitude. It (lands on a pcninfula furnied by the rivers Alhley and Cooper, the former of which is navigable for Hiips twenty miles above the town. The harbour has no inconvenience, except that of a bar, which prevents vcfll-ls of above two hundred tuns from entering. The city is well fortified both by art and nature, and the houfcs make a hindfome appear.ince. The church, which is large, is built in a good tafte, and exceeds every thing of the kind in North America. The town contains about eight hundred houfcs, and is the feat of the governor, and the place where thi; afllmbly meet. Several hand- fome equipages are kept in the city. The prople ia general are vain, gay, and cxpenfive in their dreft and way of living ; and the place may be confidered as one of the politeft, as well as the richcfl, in all Dritifli America. The beft harbour is Port Royal, on the borders of Georgia, formed by an ifland in eighty degrees ten minutes of wed longitude, and thirty-one degrees furty-five minutes of north latitude, capable of re- ceiving the largcfl fleets. The mouths of the rivers in North Carolina form but indifferent harbours, and, except one at Cape Kear, .idmit no veflels above eighty tuns ; fo that larger fliips are under the neceflity of lying oif in a found, called Ocacock, between fome iflands and the conti- nent ; an inconvenience which lays a weight upon their trade, by the expence of lighterage. Edenton was formerly the capital of North Caro- lina, if a mean village can deferve that appellation; but a late governor projected one farther fouth, upoti the river Neus, which, though more central, is by no means equally well fituated for trade. No town, however, in North Carolina, can be reckoned con- fiderable in any degree. The trade of Carolina, befides lumber, provifions, &c. in common with the reft of America, confifti in three ftaple commodities, which are indigo, rice, and the produce of the pine tree, viz. turpentine. foxes, racoons, fquirrels, w''d cats, and the opof- tar, and pitch. The two former of thofe are the fum. All European animals are likcwife here in gre prudent indulgence hai had the cfFedl of reviving the trade. In Carolina, the turpentine ia obtained by inci- fions made in the pine tree, from as great a height as A man can reach with a hatchet. 'I'hofe incifions meet at the bottom in a point, and hence the tur- pentine runs into a veflel placed to receive it. Tar requires a more confiJcrabIc apparatus, and great trouble. For the purpofc they make a circu- lar floor of clay, declining a little towards the cen- tre, whence is laid a pipe of wood, which reaches ten foot beyond the circumference. Under the end of this tube, the earth is dug away, and barrels are placed to rceive the tar. Upon this floor they eredl • large pile of pine wood, Iplit in pieces, and fur- lounded with a wall of earth, a fmall aperture be- ing left at the top, where the fire is fird kindled. V/hen the (ire begins to burn, this aperture is like- wife covered, to prevent the flame from ilTuing out, and to leave only fufiicient heat to force the tar duwnw.irds to the floor. The heat is regulated at pleafure, by running a flick into the earthen wall, and thus admitting air. Pitch is made by boiling tar in large iron kettles, fet in furnaces, or burning it in round clay holes, made in the earth, Ikforc the prefent war with America, the import trade of the Carolinaa from Great Britain and the Weft India iflands were very great, and likewifc their trafiic with the Indians in a flourifhing (late. Both the Carolinas have made frequent efforts to- wards the cultivation of cotton and filk, and the excellent quality of their produce of this kind ought to have encouraged the prufecuiion of two branches of trafiic, which feem fo well adapted to the climate. The paper-currency of South Carolinia amounted fome years ago,, to two hund-ed and fifty thoufand pounds flerling i and that of ^^'irth Carolina to fi.''ty- two thoufand pounds. The quantity of Britifli coin in either provii/ce is very inconftderable, the current cafli confifting almoll wholly of Spanifh dollars and piftoles. The firft attempt towards eftablifhing a fettlement in Carolina, was made by fir Walter Raleigh, near the end of the reign of queen Elizabeth ; but the ad- Venturers meeting with oppofltion from the natives, the project was at that time abandoned, and no de- fign of refuming it ever formed, till after the rcfto- tstion of Charles II. when tha miniflry, induced by a favourable repiefeniation of this part of America^ prucutcd a gram ol it from the crown to themlclve the MilTifippi, receiving in iis pifTigc the rlvrr Ou. b.iik on the north, and the Climkii on the I'uu li, with feverul other fmjlicr IhciiDi. Thofe rivtri are not only nwigable fur Ur^e vcdi.!* a prodigious way into the country, but have lu rii.)iiy crceki, and receive fuch a number of fm.ill riven, likewife navigable, at renders the coinniunicaunn l)c> tween all parts of the province infinitely more c.ily than in any other country in the world. Tlic I'o- lowmack is navigable al nod two humlrcd nulei, is nine miles broad at its cnlr.mcc, and for a v.i/t w.iy not lefs than fi:vcn, Uy thofe niimiroui nuTi ilic planters are enabled to load and iinliaJ vcfTtls uf gnat burthen at their own doors, which Ii a fortuiutc Lir- cumftance, eonfidcting that their comnioditics are bulky. The heats in fuminor arc very great, though not without the allay of rcfrclhiny fca breezes j but the weather is changeable, and the changes not only fudderi but violent. Terrible thunder (?oims frequenlly happen at this feafon, but are feldom produflive of niiicli mifchicf. The north and north W( ft winds arc ex- tremely cold 1 the Touth and foulh-cafl hur.y and fultry hot. The winter frofls, in general, ctune on very fuddenly j after a warm day in autumn fo intenfc a cold frerjuently fucceedj, as to frceic over the largell rivers in a night's time i but thofe frolU, as well us rains, are rather violent than of long continuance % and in wi. ;cr there is for the moft part a clear and dry air, which renders it very pleaf.int. Snow falla rometimes in great quantities, but fclJom continues above a day or two. Their fpring is about a month earlier than in England. In April they have rfcqucnt rains : in May anil June the heat incrcafcs, ar I is much like our fuinmer, being mitigated with gentle breeze.', that rife about nine o'clock, decrcafing from this period till the fun is in the meridian, after which they again Iiineafe. In July and Auguft, however. longitude, and between thirty-fix and thirty-nine de- | rliofe breezes ceafe, and the air becomes fldgnant, ac grecs of north latitude i being in length from north to fouth about two hundred and forty miles, and in breadth a hundred and twenty, if we comprehend only the lands which are planted. The face of the country is fo extremely low towards the fea, that even within fifteen fathom foundings land can hardly be diftinguifhcd from the mad head ; but fixty or feventy miles to the weftward it rifes into hills. It is interfered by the Bay of Chefapeak, one of the fineft in the world, which entering between Cape Charlet and Cape Henry, runs near two hun- dred miles north within land. This bay is for a confidcrabic fpace about eighteen miles in breadth, and fevcn in the narroweft part, the water being nine fathom deep in moft places. It receives, both on the eaftern and weSern fide, a vafl n imber of na- vigable rivers, the chief of which are, James River, York River, Rappahanoc River, and the Potowinack, 8 companied with a heat which is uppreflive. In Sep> tembcr it is common for the weather to break fud- denly ; and great rains happening at this lime, the inhabitants are much expofed to cachexies, fluxes, fcorbutical dropfies, and gripes. The foil is of great variety in dilFcrcnt parts of the province : in the low grounds it is a dark fat mould, which for many years, without any manure, yields plentiful crops. At a diftat.cc from the rivers it is light and fiindy, but by the warmth of the climate, yields tobacco and corn extremely well. The foicft-trces arc oak, poplar, pines, cedars, cyprcfs, and trees which produce fwcct gums. There is alfo a variety of evergreens, the holly, the myrtle, and the live oak, whicli during three quarters of the year is conftantly dropping its acorns, at the fame time that it is budding and bcniing others in their ftead. Here aic likewife elm, afli, and walnut, pro- ducing * 'J / Dm Husr Miirr JJMi . ULM Win 71 SCOTLA nr Tit of KUrb the plan in the let them tobacco- convenii month I off, am Here among' the can colour, yet unl are aln fpecics Th are aln Hoi thougt mals 9 nor a wild ( two k VlKOlNIA.I n V \i V o A 1 TD -EZZKZznzrz \n M t) -J Ilrliii#y 7 /WxAyi I-Mirm SJMm H » f *) Id* ['fj' U' wVwM jiji'V''*'^*^ If .>«.i/i 4yi Mull -^V* JtJm ■♦^M,** .^' RAM** j n M I T I < H ■». SCOTLAND^ Thof Kilcltiu. lUVl JblMfll s o c r. A » f^^^S^^ I H r. 1. ^ X n^ tiritAfityiu . Dw**m I.M ...... .iwvttlllK, V« IIVK »!•«* «•« »«••«•* «V IIIAtUlltyi the planter* cut them down, and, after leaving them in the field for half a day, heap them up, and let them lie a night} carrying them next day to the lobacco-houfe, where the plants are hung up at a convenient diftance from each other, for about a month or five weeks. The leaves arc then flrJppcd off, and laid afide for exportation. Here is a great variety of fpontaneous flowers, among which are the fincft crown imperial in the wurld, the cardinal flower, fo much extolled for its fcarlct colour, the moccafin flower, and numbers of others yet unknown to the botanifls in Britain. The fields are almufl perpetually adorned with flowers of one fpecics or other, and the woods are remarkably fragrant. The quadrupeds, birds, fifh, he, of this country are almofl the fame with thofe of Carolina. Horned cattle and hogs have multiplied incredibly, though the country was totally deftitute of thofe ani- mals at its fiffl fetilement. Deer arc very numerous ; nor are tigers, bears, wolves, foxes, racoons, and wild cats, unfiequent. Of fqulrrels thrre are here two kinds } one larger than a fox, and grey, which Mo. SI. leaner, green, and gold. It is fuppofed to live b/ fucking the dew which adheres to the flowers, anu «l 11 .1 1 , / 1 ■/ < »"<:'■: .?». rir in>. \ HtHtlHt. f- •^A '».//. .J i ^. .^>i: i» I. I W-^..: :>«t*»«»r-'»iij;-ii!7 : rirrr5»i i~rj:i ''C7IRG1NIA is bounded on the fouth by Carolina, * on the weft by the Indian nations, on the north by Maryland, and on the eaft by the Atlantic Ocean. It lies between feventy-four and eighty degrees of weft longitude, and between thirty-fix and thirty-nine de> grccs of north latitude i being in length from north to fouth about two hundred and forty miles, and in breadth a hundred and twenty, if we comprehend only the lands which are planted. The face of the country is fo extremely low towards the fen, that even within fifteen fathom foundings land can hardly be diftinguifhed from the mail head j but fixty or feventy miles to the weftward it rifes into hills. It is interfered by th^ Bay of Chefapeak, one of the fineft in the world, whi h entering between Cape Charles and Cape Henry, runs near two hun- dred miles north within land. This bay is for a confiderablc fpace about eighteen miles in breadth, and feven in the narrowed part, the water being nine fathom deep in mod places. It receives, both on the eaftern and weftern fide, a vad n imber of na- vigable rivers, the chief of which are, James River, York River, Rappahanoc River, and the Potowmack, 8 much like our lummer, being mitigated witn gcimc breezes, that rife about nine o'clock, dccrcafing from this period till the fun is in the meridian, after which they again increafe. In July and Auguft, however, thofe breezes ceafe, and the .nlr becomes flngiiant, ac- companied with a heat which is uppreflive. In Sep- tember it is common for the weather to break fud- dcniy ; and great rains happening at this lime, the inhabitants are much expofed to cachexies, fluxes, fcotbutical dropHes, and gripes. The foil is of great variety in difFcrcnt parts of the province : in the low grounds it is a dark fat mould, which for many years, without any manure, yields plentiful crops. At a diftancc from the rivers it is light and fandy, but by the warmth of the climate, yields tobacco and corn extremely well. The forcfl-trces arc oak, poplar, pines, cedars, cyprefs, and trees which produce fwcct gums. There is alfo a variety of evergreens, the holly, the myrtle, and the live oak, whicii during three quarters of ihe year is conftantly dropping its acorns, at the fame time that it is budding and bearing others in their ftead. Here ate likcwifc dm, alh, and walnut, pro- ducing Virginia.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 6it H'icing no bough to a confiderable height, with beech, hazle, elder, willow, ralTafras, and (arfaparilla. Among other fruits they have grapes that grow fpontaneoufly, and the European grape, which comes to great perfeflion ; befldes plums, great quantities of large peaches, and three forts of cherries, one of which grows in bunches like grapes. No country abounds more with apples and pears, but oranges and lemons do not agree with the foil Quinces are fu plentiful that they make a great deal of marmalade, and liquor of them. Here is a fruit, called the chin- quamine, refembling a chefnut; the macoquer, much tike an apple ; with the fig and the muttacocks, which is a fpecies of flrawberry. The chief produce of the country is tobacco, an aboriginal plant in America, of very ancient ufe, though neither fo generally cultivated, nor fo well manufaflured, as fince the arrival of the Europeans. This plant, at its full height, is as tall as a common fized man. The {lalk is llrait, hairy, and clammy, with alternate leaves, of a fdded yelluwifh green, The feeds of tobacco are firfl fown in beds, whence they are tranfplanted, the full rainy weather, into ground difpofed into little hillocks, in the manner of a hop-garden, Touacco it diftingutihed b traders into two forts ; one called fweet-fcented, the bell of which comes from James's and York Rivers, in the fouthern parts of Virginia ; the other named aranookoe, from the northern parts of Virginia and Maryland, is ilrong and hot in the mouth, but fells well in the inarkets of Holland, Germany, and the North, In the courfe of another month, being grown a foot high, the planters top th?m, and prune off all the bottom leaves, leaving only feven or eight on the ftalks, with the view of rendering them larger. In fix weeks thofe leaves arrive at their full growth ; and when, from being green, they begin to turn brownifh, and to fpot and thicken, it is a fign of their ripening. When they are come to maturity, the planters cut them down, and, after leaving them in the field for half a day, heap them up, and let them lie a night; carrying them next day to the tobacco-houfe, where the plants are hung up at a convenient diftance from each other, fur about a month or five weeks. The leaves are then dripped off, and laid afide for exportation. Here is a great variety of fpontaneous flowers, among which are the fineil crown imperial in the world, the cardinal flower, fo much extolled for its fcarlet colour, the moccafin flower, and numbers of others yet unknown to the botanifts in Britain, The fields are almoft perpetually adorned with flowers of one fpecies or other, and the woods are remarkably fragrant. 7'he quadrupeds, birds, fi(h, tic, of this country are almoft the fame with thofe of Carolina. Horned cattle and hogs have multiplied inciedibly, though the country was totally deftitute of thofe ani- mals at its fitft fettlement. Deer are very numerous ; nor are tigers, bears, wolves, foxes, racoons, and wild cats, unfiequcnt. Of fqulrrels there ati her* two kinds ; one larger than a fox, and grey, which No, 51. is reputed to be good eating ; the other, the flying fquirrel, which is lefs than the Engliflj. The (kin on each fide of his belly is fo large, that it afliUs hint in flcipping from one tree to another, on which ac- count he is diftinguiflied by the epithet of flying. A reptile fimilar to the water rat is common here* called the mufk rat, from its fmelling flrong of thai commodity. The beavers are not fo frequent as in the more northern parts of th-*. continent ; but there are both fea and land tortoifes. The frogs are ten times as large as thofe in England. Lizards are exceeding numerous, and are ate by the inhabitants, Tho opoflum occurs in many places, and the rattle.fnake is alfo an indigenous reptile in this provinue. Here are three forts of eagles, the largcft of which is called the grey eagle. The fccond is the bald eagle : this fpecies is of a dark brown colour, and has the upper part of the neck and bead covered with a while down, from which it has received its appeU lation. The third kind is the black eagle, refem- bling that of England, They frequently fit on foms tall tree by a river's fide, whence they may have a view of the fifliing hawk. When they fee this bird ftrike a fifli, they immediately purfue it, till the hawk, to make its own efcape, lets fall its prey, on which the eagle frequently lays hold before it reaches the earth or water, Thofe eagles will often kill young lambs, pigs, and other animals. The woods abound with wild turkics of a very large fize. The white owl of thi: province is alfo much larger than the fpecies known in England, and is alt over of a bright filver-coloured plumage, except one black fpot upon the bread. The Virginia nightingale is a beautiful bird, with blue and crimfon feathers. Tiie mocking bird imitates the notes of every other bird, and is judged to furpafs all in its own fong. Here is likewife the humming bird, one of the fmalled and moft beautiful of the feathered race, arrayed i'.t fcarlet, green, and gold. It is fuppofed to live iy fucking the dew which adheres to the flowers, and is too delicate to be brought alive to England. In the month of June, annually, there rife up in the falts vaft beds of fecdling- worms, which enter (he fhips, or boats, wherever the .-}at of pitch, tar* or lime, is worn off the timber, and by degrees eat the plank into cells, in the manner of the honey- comb, Thofe worms continue upon the furface of the water from this time until the firft great rains after the middle of July, fubfequent to which period they do little dam.nge, and never penetrate farther than the plank upon which they fix. The damage occafioned by thofe worms may b& prevented four different ways. The fiift is by keep- ing the coat of pitch, lime, and tallow, or whatever elfe is ufed, whole upon the bottom of the veffel. The fecond, by anchoring the large veffels in the ftrength of the tide, during the worm feafon. The third, by burning and cicanfing immediately after the worm feafon h over : and the fourth, by running up in the frelhes, with the (hip or veffel, during the five or fix weeks that the worms are above water. 7 N Virginia 6i' H B M O E R N [America. Virginia it divided into the following counties, viz. Richmond, Stafford, Weftmnrland, Rapahanoc, Eflex, Northumberland, Lanca(hire, and Middlefcx, all lying upon, or between, the rivers Potowmack andRapahanocj New William's county. New Kent, Gloucefter, Prince George county. King and Queen county, Charles county, James county, York county, Warwick county, Elizabeth county, Henrico county, Surry county, Ifle of Wight county, Nanfamund county, Princefs Anne county, and Norfolk county, lying upon, or near, York and James Rivers } with thofc of Acomac and Northampton, fituated between the Bay of Chsfapeak and the ocean. The only towns in Virginia, built by the Englilh, are James-Town and Williamfburgh. James-Town, once the capital of the country, is fituate in feventy-feven d'^grces thirty minutes of weft longitude, and in thirty -feven degrees thirty minutes of north latitude, on a peninfula, on the north fide of Jp.mes River, forty miles weft of its mouth. The number of houfes is not above a hundred, and thofe chiefly for the entertainment of fcafaring peop/e. Williamfburgh, the prefent capital. Hands fcvcn miles from James-Town, between James River and Y^.it River. Notwithftanding this be the fcqt of the government it hardly contains fifty houfes ; the Vir- ginia planters choofing to live upon their lands. It is comr-ited that Virginia contains upwards of a hundred t'jiuand white people, and that the number of negroes, cxclufive of fervants, is conGderably greater j the latter being obferved rather to incrcafe than diminifti here, from moderate labour, wholfomc food, and a healthy climate. Many French refugees are likewife fettled in this province. The inhabi- tants an: generally chearful and hofpitzble, but vain i and oftentatious, and for the greater part ti.embers of the church of England. The eftablifhed religion here is that of the church of England. Every parifh has its minifter, who has a houfe and glebe, with about the value of eighty pounds per annum, paid in to- bncco, which the church-wardens collefl for him. There are, however, no bifliops, the infpeflion of the clergy being committed to the ecclefiaftical com- miflary, or fuperiniendant ; and though a full liberty of confcience be allowed to all perfuafions, the only places of worfhip, not parochial, are a few meeting- houfes of prefliytcrians and quakers. The country between James River and York River is the befl in- habited and cultivated. The conftitution of the government in this province refemblcs that of the mother-country, and is called a royal governinent. The governor reprefcnts the king; the council anl'wers to the Iioufe of peers ; and the reprefentatives, whc are chofen by the freemen of every county, are their houfe of commons. fiefides the governor, there are three public officers who have their commilfions immediately from the king. Thofe are, the auditor of the revenue, the receiver-general, and the fecretary, in whofc office the public records are kept, and where all deeds and other writings arc proved. The ecclefiaftical com- milTary receives his authority from the bifhop of Loa- 8 don ; a.id the trcafurer of the province is appointid by 'he general alTembly. The public revenues are, i. A rent rcfcrved hy tliL- crown of all landa granted by patent. 2. A duty at' two (hillings a hogfhead on all tobacco exported. j, A duty of fix pence a-head for every paffcngcr brought into the country, 4, Fines and forfeitures. 5, Dd- ties on foreign liquors, and on flaves and fcrvar^ts imported, Laftly, money raifed by afls p.ifl'ej in the alTembly, befides the duties laid upon tobacco in the counties that produce it. There are no other forces in Virginia but militia, of which the governor is lieutenant-general hy his commifllon ; and in each county he appoints the co- lonel, the lieutenant. colonel, and the major. Every freeman, or all who are not fervants, from fixtccn to lixty years of age, are lifted in the militia, and niuf. tcrcd once a year, at a general muftcr, befidcs four times a year, by troops and companies, in their re- fpe(5live counties. The number of the whole is reckoned to be about twenty thonfand men. Though there are not many planters very rich in this province, few perfons arc fo poor as to be re- duced to ; .'. i'e of beggary ; but if any one happens to be di" b!i. ■ from working, by age or fickncfs, he is naarf^rtJ uj,on fome fubftantial planter, where he is plentifully provided for at the public charge. The county courts have a power of punifhing a!l maftcrs that do not proviJe their fervants good and wholcfome diet, clothing, and lodging. On founding the town of Williamfburgh a propnfal was made to build a college at that place, for the education of youth, towards which, in the year 1692, king William and queen Mary gave about two thou- fand pounds, endowing it with twenty thoufand acres of land, and the revenue of one penny in the pound on all tobacco exported. A power was alfo given to certain gentlemen, and their fuccelTors, to build a college, and give it the name of William and Mary college i in which there was appointed a prcfident, with fix profefTors, and a hundred ftudents. The truflecs were empowered to take eftates to the yearly value of two thoufand pounds j at,d a large donation was likewife made by the k^ion. Mr. Boyle to this college, for the education of Indian children. Before the commencement of the prefent war, Vir- ginia carried on a great trade with the Weft Indies, in lumbe.-, pitch, tar, provifions, &c, and fent to England flax, hemp, iron, ftaves, and walnut and cedar plank j but of all their exports hither tobacco was far the moft confiderable. The ufual quantity in a year was forty thoufand hogflieads, each hogfhead containing eight hundred weight. It is computed that the revenue drew near three hundred thoufand pounds annually from this fingle article ; and the to- bacco re-exported from Britain brought almoft as large a fum every year into the kingdom. To thofe ad- vantages ought fo be added, the employment of two hundred large /hips, and a proportionable number of feamen, in this trade, Notwithftanding the great benefit derived from this province by the mother-country, the planters were Mica. IppointiJ ^1 '))• tt-,- duty (if Itcd, J, 1'. roll;; lit 5. ih,. I'fJ in tlie in the It militia, l^il by hig the co- Evury [lixtccn to land ni uf. Ifidcs four I their re- Iwhole is Virginia.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 6*J far from being in a flourifhing condition. As they generally lived to the full extent of their fortunes, any failure in the fale of their tobacco brought them heavily in debt to the London merchants, who got mortgages on their ellates at an eight percent, ufury. The manufactures of Virginia are fo infignificant that they hardly merit being mentioned ; for the in- habitants were accudomed to take from the mother- country every article either for convenience or or- nament. Though North America was difcovered by Sebaf- tian Cabot, for the Engliih, in the reign of Henry VII. it remained for almoft a century unclaimed and uncultivated, till fome (hips were fent out thither, with the view of interrupting the Spanifh trade with America, and intercepting their galleons. This ex- pedition took place in the year 1584, when the ad- venturers landed on an illand nearthe ccad of America, and foon afterwards pofleilion was taken of the con- tinent, under the name of Virginia, a title bellowed upon it in honour of queen Elizabeth, No attempts however were made to eftablifli any colony in thofe parts, until the reign of king James, who by his letters patent, in 1606, authorifed fir Thomas Gates, fir George Summers, Richard Hackluit, prebendary of Weftminfter, and other adventurers, to plant the coaft of Virginia (at that time the name of the whole eaftern part of the American continent) between thirty- four and forty-five degrees of north latitude. The patentees fitting out three fmall fhips, gave the com- mand of them to captain Chriflopher Newport, who in 1607 arrived in the bay of Chefapeak, and failing up the river Powhatar, now James river, landed on a peninfula, about fifty miles from the bay, where they built a fort, and afterwards a town, which they called James-Town, in compliment to the king from whom the patent had been obtained. Some fkirmifhes happened between the Engliih and the natives at landing; but the latter appre- hending that they fliould not be able to maintain their ground, againll a people furnifhed with fire- arms, pretended a reconciliation with the ilrangcrs, till a convenient opportunity of indulging their re- fcntmcnt (hould ofl'er. The fort being linifhed, in little more than a twelvemonth, captain Newport returned to England, leaving a hundred and four men in the fcttlcincnt. The gariifon foon finding thcmfelvcs in want of provifions, and the natives rcfuling to furnifli them with any, notwithflanding they oH'ered the full value, the Englifli were reduced to the necelTity of commit- ting depredations, upon which an open war commen- ced between the two parties. But frefh fupplies and reinforcements, commanded by Lord Delaware, foon r-'iving, the Indians at length were glad to enter in- to a treaty of peace. Mean time the Englifh finding a great demand for tobacco in Europe, began to en- courage the planting of it, in which they fuccceded beyond their mofl fanguine expectations. A mode of government being eftablifhed, the firft general aflembly met at James-Town, in May, 1610, and the fame year negroes were firft imported to Virginia. The natives the country, confidering the colonial eflablifliment a> founded on the violation of their rights, entered into a confpiracy to maflacre uil th« Englifh, on the twenty-fecond day cf March, i622t about noon, when the people were abroad at work, in their plantations without arms. The defign fo far fuccceded, that three hundred and forty-feven of the planters fell a facrifice to their fury, moft of whom were killed with their own working tools j but an In- dian difclofing the confpiracy to hi» mafler, one of the Englifh, a little before the execution of it, the latter gave notice to the reft of the planters, who not only faved their own lives, but cut off a great number of the Indians, The planters foon after falling out among them- felves, the natives took advantage of their divifions, and making another effort towards recovering their country, attacked the Englifh by furprize, of whom they killed a great number, Thofe misfortunes being imputed to the mal-admi- niftration of the company, king Charles I. dilTolved it in the year 1626, and reduced the government of Virginia under his own immediate direction} hiinfelf appointing the governor .ind council, ordering all pa- tents and procji'^ to ifTue in his own name, and re- ferving a quit- rent of two (hillings for every hundred acres of land. The firft governor aftt- the difTolution of the com- pany was fir John Harvey, who became in a fhort time fo obnoxious to the inhabitants, from the rigour of his adminiftration, that, in 1639, they fent him prifoner to England, But though the charge againft him was fupported by two gentlemen, fent over by the Virginians for that purpofe, he was reinftated ia his government, without their being admitted to an audience. Being removed, however, in a fhort time after. Sir William Berkeley was appointed to fucceed him in that ftation, Thofe difputes between the governor and the co- lonifts encouraged Oppecancanoug, one of the fa- chems or chiefs of the Indians, to meditate a frefh war. Having complained of many encroachments upon his lands, contrary to the public faith, with- out any regard being paid to his remonftrances, col- leiling a body of the natives, he ordered them to at- tack, the out-fettleinents, in which encounter the/ mafl'acred near five hundred Englifli, But purfuing the advantage he had gained within the limits of the colony, and at a diftance from his own refidence, fir William Berkeley furprifed him in Henrico county with a party of horfe, and propofcd to have fent him to England ; but a brutal Englifhman wounding him mortally in the back, he almoft inftantly expired j an incident, however, which the governor improved by making a peace with the Indians. At the time the civil war broke out in England, the fettlers of Virginia were computed to amount to fifteen thoufand, exclufive of women and children j but a fatal difference then arofe between the gover- nor and planters. Berkeley, a man of great refolu- tion, fided with the king, and prohibited all inter- courfe between the Virginians and the prevailing party 6i4 H M in Ent^land, to the no fmall prejudice of the colony. Their ftiple commodity, tobacco, of which vaft quan- tities had for fome time been taken off in £ngUnd, lay upon their hands ; and though they did not want for provifiona, yet being deftitute of manufafiurers, and the benefits of commercej they were unable to fupply themfelves even with tools for agriculture. The Englifh parliament refolved to reduce this colony, as w,-.. . T-. ■---.: r. river, Pensvlvania.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 6,5 river, which, running from north to fouth, falls into the mouth of the river Patowmac. Mod of thofe rivers are navigable for large (hips. The air and fcafons are the fame here at in Virgi- nia, and tobacco h alfo the liaple commodity of this province. Maryland is divided into ten counties, of which fix lie on the well fide of the bay of Chefapeak, and four on the eafl. The former are, St. Mary's county, Charles county. Prince George county, Cal- vert county, Anne Arundel county, and Baltimore county { and the latter, Somerfet county, Dorchefter county, Talbot county, and Cecil county. The feitlrment of Ihi* colony was made, under the dire£lion of lord Baltimore, by l.ii brother, and about two hundred perfons, Roman Catholics, and mod of them of good familiei. Thofe adventurers met with an amicable reception from the natives of the country, with whom they continued to live upon good terms, till fome ill-difpofed perfons in Virginia infmuated to the Indians, that the Baltimore colony had defigns upon them. The nev.' planters being in- formed of thofe fuggeilions, and apprehenfive of what might be the confequence, built :: vood fort with all expedition, and took every other meafure that feem- ed to be nccefTary for their defence, continuing how- ever to treat the Indians with their ufual kindnefs j by which prudent behaviour, joined to the awe of their arms, the defigns of their enemies were de« feated. The papids being at this time fevercly treated in England, numbers of that perfuafion migrated to the infant colony, which lord Baltimore, the proprietor, who was himfelf a Roman catholic, encouraged with all his power, and at confiderable expence ; till the ufurpation overturning the government at home, de- prived him of his new acquifition. From this time Maryland remained under the governors appointed by the parliament and by Cromwell, until the Reftoration, when the proprietor was reinftated in his former pof- fcflion, which he continued to cultivate with the fame afliduous attention as before. He promoted an tQ of affcmbly, for allowing a free and unlimited toleration to all who profeflcd the Chriftian religion, whence a great number, not only of the church of England, but of prefbyterians, quakers, and all kinds of dif- fenters, was induced to fettle in thr new colony, which before this time had been almoft wholly in the hands of Roman Catholics. Hitherto Maryland was a proprietary fettlement, but at the Revolution, lord Baltimore was deprived of the power of appointing a governor and other officers, and the government of this province fell under the ftme regulations as thofe of other colonies. The fa- mily of Baltimore was likewife in danger of lofing their property, on account of the aft requiring all Roman Catholic heirs to profefs the proteftant reli- gion, on pain of being deprived of their eftates { but changing their religion to elude the forfeiture, they have ever fince continued in the poflelCon of this va- luable eflate. The profirietor, btfiJes a duty on every hogfhrad of tobicco experteJ, enjoys feveral No. 5t. fine manors, and has a rent paid him by eve.'/ planter, excluftve of other perquifites. The governor, as has been already obfervcd, is now appointed by the crown, as are alio the members of the council. The aflembly is chofen by the ..ee« holders of the refpe£live counties, as in Virginia; an4 in the governor, council, and afTcmbly, the legillative power is lodged. The governor has a negative voice, as the crown has in Great Britain, and every a£l of the provincial afTembly mud be confirmed by the king} till whofe pleafure be known, they continue in force from the time they have been enacted. The colonels and other officers of the militia, ill every county, are empowered to enlift all perfons to ferve in the horfe and foot from fixteen to flxty (cx' cept negroes and daves), who are obliged to muder in their refpedlive counties from time to time, at fuch places as the governor fliall appoint ; furnifhing their own arms and horfes, and maintaining themfelvet during fuchmuder. But if they are employed on a£iual fervice, their arms, &c. are to be provided out of the public magazines, and they are to be regularly paid by the counties to which they belong. Any foldter, being wounded, has a provilion from the public ; as alfo the wives and children of fuch at are killed in the fervice. The people of Maryland have the fame edabliflied religion at thofe of Virginia, viz. the church of England ; and the clergy are decently provided for. The exports from this province are alfo of the fame kind with thofe of the latter. The quantity of to< bacco, their daple commodity, it about forty thoufand hogdieads. The white inhabitants are computed at forty thoufand, and the negroes upwards of fixty thoufand. PENSVLVANIA. PENSVLVANIA is bounded on the fouth and v>e& by Maryland, on the north by the county of the Iroquois Indians, and on the ead by the Jer- feyt. It it fituate between fevcnty-four and feventy« eight degrees of wed longitude, and between thirty- niue and forty-two degrees of north latitude ; being about two hundred miles in length, and near the fame in breadth. The rivers of this country are, the Delaware, which rifet beyond the limitt of the province, and, running nlmod due fouth, falls into the Atlantic, between Cape May and Cape Henlopen { the Saf- quahannah, which rifmg in the country of the Iroquois, and running fouth through the middle of Penfylvanit, difcharges its waters into the bay of Chefapeak; and the Sbuylkill, which iOtiing from between the fourcei of the two preceding rivers, and running fird to the fouth, and then eadward, falls into the Delaware ac Philadelphia. The fird two of thofe rivers are navi> gable a great way for large (hips, and the latter is na- vigable fa high as the city lad mentioned ; a circum» dance which rrnders the province extremely convc-. nient for foreign trade, 7 O Philadelphia, 6i6 H Philadelphia, the capital of this province, is fi- tuate in feventy-five drgrees of weft lonfjitudr, and in forty degrees fifty minutes of nor.th latitude ; upon a tongue of land, iitiiiiediately at the confluence of the rivers .Delaware and Shuylkill. This bitutiful city ii difpofed in an oblong form, defigned to extend two miles from river to river ; uut the buildings arc hitherto not ereAed ab'ive a mile and a half in length, on the weft fide of the Delaware, and not more than half a mile in breadth, where the dimcnfions of the town are greateft. According to the original plan, eight parallel ftrcets were to be built, each two miles in length, which were to be interfe£ted by fixteen others, each a mile in length, broad, fpacious, and even ; with propi-.t areas for public buildings, and market places. In the centre is a fquare of ten acres, found which moft of the public building are difpofed. The two principal ftreets of the city are each a hun- dred foot wide, and moft of the houfes have a fmall garden and orchard. From the river are cut feveral canals, equally agreeable and commodious. I'hc quays are large and well built. The principal one is two hundred foot wide, and to this a vefTel of five hundred tuns may lay her broadfide, 7'he warchoufes arc alfo large, numerous, and commodious, and the docks for (hip-building every way well adapted for their purpofes. The city contains about two thou- fand dwelling houfes, moft of them of brick, and well built. The inhabitants are computed to be about fourteen thoufand, A univerfity was eftablifhed here a few years fince. The town of Briftol Hands on the weft (hore of the Delaware, twenty miles north of Philadelphia ; and near the mouth of the fame river ; likewife on the well fide ftands Newcaftle, which is a fine port, and has the brifkcft trade of any town in the province, next to Philadelphia. This part of America being difcovered by Mr. Hudfon, a native of England, who was about to plant a colony at the mouth of the river which now bears his name, the Dutcji purchafcd his intereft in that plantation, and in the year 1608, toc!c pofleffion of it. In virtue of this tranfafiion they confidered themfelves as rntitled to all thofe territories now de- nominated New York, New Jerfey, and Penfylvania. But there ftill remaining fome part of them, which tlie Dutch had ncgleifted to plant, the Swedes fent thither colonies of their countrymen, a meafure which the people of the former nation were fo far from tolerating, that they fell upon the Swedes, and compelled them to acknowlege the Hollanders their fovereign ; permitting them however to enjoy the plantations they had fettled, and the privileges of the reft of their fubjefls. King Charles J I. however, not admitting the claim of either of thofe nations, becaufe part of the fame coaft, both on the north and fouth of thofe pro MODERN [Amtrica, York, who fent over Sir Robert Carr, with a fquadton of men of war, and land-forces to reduce them. On the appearance of this armament before the city 01 New-Amfterdam, fince called New-York, the go. vernor, in confequence of a fumn-.ons, furrendcrcj the place, and this example was foun followed by all the other townt in the country. The Duke of York parcelled out tl;c territory to under-proprietors, among whom w.ns William I'enn, fon of Sir William Pcnii, admiral in the Duteh wars. The reft of thofe proprietors, fome time after, fur- rendering their charters to the crown. New- York, and New-Jerfey became royal governments, while Penn remained proprietor of that part of the country which had been granted to him. In the year i6bo, he obtained from Charles II, an additional grant of that part of the country wiiich at prefent conflitutet the reft of Penfylvania, in confideration of money due to his father, Sir William Penn, from the govern- ment. To the whole territory which he had obtain- ed, he gave the name of Penfylvania, and proceeded immediately to planting colonies j the Dutch and Swedifh inhabitants choofiiig ftill tu remain, as they did in New- York and the Jcifeys. Penn, however, notwitliflanding thofe jjrants, did not look upon hinifclf as the real proprietor of the lands he had obtained, till they fhould be connrmt.d to him by the Indians, in confequence of his paying to them what he cfteemcd a valuable confideration f the piinciplcs of his feft (he being a quakcr) not per« mitting him to make ufc of force in the eftabliflimenc of the colony. On his arrival in America, therefore, in 1681, hi» firft objeiSl was, to procure a conference with the In- dian fachems, or kings, to treat with them for the purchafe of the lands. The number of the natives being fmall, and hardly making any other ufe of the country than to hunt in it, they readily embraced the propofal, and he purchafed countries of many milei extent, for a very moderate fum, which he paid in cloaths, tools, utenfils, and toy). The land thus bought was entered upon by the under-purchafers, who purchafcd by the hundred and thoufand acres, what the proprietary had bought by miles. The government of Penfylvania is proprietary, the heirs of the grantee appointing the governor and coun- cil; and the reprefentatives are chofen by the freemen of the province. The territory was fome years fince mortgaged to Mr, Gee, and others, for fix thoufand fix hundred pounds Serling, In the year 1713, Mr. Penn, by agreement, made over all his rights in Penfylvania fo the crown, in confideration of twelve thoufand pounds fterling; but before the indrument of furrender was executed, he died apoplciSlic, and the country ftill remains with the family of the Penns. The produce and traffic of Penfylvania confifts of vinces, had been planted by the fubjefls of England, horfes, pipe-ftaves, pork, beef, and fifti, falted and under a charter from James I, in which the countries barrelled up, fkins and furs, all forts of grain, viz. in queftion were comprehended, transferred the fe- 1 wheat, rye, peafe, oats, barley, buck-wheat, Indian veral provinces which had been occupied by the Hoi- I corn, pot-aflies, wax, &c. In return for thofe com- landers and Swedes, to his brother, the duke of I modities, tlipy- ifipott from the Caribbee Illands, and I other Nbw-Jer8eV.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. ISi^ other placet, rum, fugar, molalTcj, filver, pfgroei, fait, and wincj and from Great Britain, houlehold goods, and clothing of all kinds, liardwarf, tools, and toys, as the other American colonies. The Penfylvanians are generally an induflrious peo- ple, and mod of them are fubltantial, though only a few of the landed men can be confiJered at rich. The inferior peoole manufacture mod of their own wear, both linens and woollens. It is computed, that the number of inhabitants is about twenty thoufand, of whom not above the fortieth part are blacks. The iirft planter! were chiefly quakersj but there are now churchei, of the eftablifhi-d religion, in different parts of the province, whither mifTionaries are fent by the focicty for the propagation of the gofpcl. NEW. JERSEY. NEW-JERSEY is bounded on the wed by the De- laware bay and river, which feparate it from Penfylvania; on the no-, by Hudfon's River, which divides it from New- York, and on the eaft and fouth by the Atlantic Ocean. It is fituate bef.veen fcventy. four and feventy-fix degrees of north latitude; being about a hundred and forty miles iii length from north to fouth, and in breadth near fixty. This province was formerly divided into two parts, by a line drawn almod through the middle of it from north to fouth, and diftinguiflied by the names of Eaft and Weft Jerfey; but the proprietors of both having furrendered their charters to the crou n, the whole now conftitutes one royal governmen", There arc feveral chains of mountains in this pro- vince, but of no confiderable extent. The principal livers are the Delaware, and Hudfon's river. The courfe oS the former iias been already defcribed : the latter rifcs near Lake Champlain, in Canada, and run- ning fouthward, falls into the Atlantic Ocean, a little below the town of New- York, fiefides there are fome other ftreams of lefs note. The province is divided into feveral counties, and has for its chief towns Pcrth-Amboy and Bridlington, commonly called Burlington, diftant fifty miles from each other, and at which the general adenibly alter- nately fits. Perth Amboy is pleafantly fituatcd at the mouth of the river Karitan, and had it been built according to the plan originally intended, would have been one of the fineft towns in North America ; but the planters have never rcforted thither, as was expcfled, though it is fo commodioufly fituatcd for trafHc that (hips of three hundred tons may come up in one tide and lie before the merchants doors, Bridlington, or Burlington, is fituated on an illand in the river Delaware, to the north of Philadelphia, This town is handfomcly built with brick, and laid out into fpacious ftreets, with commodious quays and wharfs, to which fltips of two hundred or three hun- dred tons may come up, Here is a good market- place, with a town-houfe, or guild-hall, where the courts of juftice were formerly held. There are alfo 8 two bridges over the river, one called London Rridgf, and the other York Briilge ; and the town hnving aii eafy cummunicatjun wiih Philadelphia and the occnn, by the river Delaware, it carries on a brilk trade. Elizabeth-Town, fituaicd northw.uJ of Perth- Amboy, has alfo a flouridiing commerce j bcfidcs which New-Bru 'wick and Trent- rowii are places of confiderable i ate. At the furmer of th-.lc a col- lege was eftablifhed for llie iiiftruftinn of youth, in 1746, with power to confer all dt'jjrces, as in othct ■iniverfities, New-Jerfey abounds much in corn, and is faid to raife more wheat than any other of the colonii-s. The planters likewife raife fome flax and hemp rhcir chief trade is with New- York and Penfylvania, wlii- lh?r they fend moft of their grain. They have alfo for fome years had a confiderable trade far prnviCmni with the Antilles ; and they export to Spain, Portu- gal, and the Canaries, tobacco, oil, fi(h, grain, ,iad other proviftons. They trade to England alfo witM furs, flcins, and other produce, taking furniture and clothing in return. By means of employing negroes, as the neighbouring colonies do, in cultivating their lands, tliey have . ' late more than doubled their va- lue i and they now work a copper ore mine, and manufacture iron ore into pigs and bars. The province of New-Jerfey conftituted part of New-Holland when taken .''rom the Dutch, It was, however, not inhabited by the Englifh till long after the country was difcovered, and the firft Europeans that fettled here feem to be the Swedes, who chiefly feated themfelves on the fide of the Delaware, towardj the frontiers of Penfyivania. Here they built three towns, Chriftina, Gottenbourg, and Elfunbourg, of which the latter yet retains its name. The Dutch almoft entirely planted the north parts of this pro- vince by the name of Nova Belgia, and about the year -.665, Rizing, the Swcdifli gener.il, fold to them all the pofleflions which had been occupied by his countrymen. When the reJu£tion of this province was refolved upon by Charles II. he made a gnnt of both the property and government of it to his brother, the duke of York, by a deed dated March 12, 1663, and the duke afligned it to the Lord Berkeley and Sir George Carteret ; the former of whom obtained the wcltern ' vifion of the country, and the other the caftcrn. A dil'pofition of the territory was afterwards made by thofe grantees, with the approbation of the duke of York ; and the province fell into the hands of a number of proprietors, who being unable to agree among themfelves, cither about matters of pro- perty, or the right of appointing a governor, deter- mined to refign to the crown the government of the country, refcrving only their title to the lands. Ac- cordingly, in 1702, a furrender of the executive power of the province was made to queen Anne, who appointed the lord Cornbury their governor. For many years the government of the Jerfeys was an- nexed to that of New- York, by a diftinft commiflionj but of late they have been afligned to different per- fons. The conftitution of the Jerfeys, both in church and ii 6i8 THE MODERN [America ■nd flatc, ii now the fame ai the other colonies, of which it is at prefcnt one of the moft flourifhing. N E VV - Y O R K. ^JEW-YORK is bounded on the fouth by Jerfey, ^^ on the weft by Penfylvania and the country of the Iroquoii, on the north by Canada, and on the eaft by New-England. It is fltuate between feventy- three degrees thirty minutes of weft longitude, and between forty-one and forty-four degrees of north U- titude { being upwards of two hundred miles in length from fouth to north, but hurdiy iixty broad in any part. The foil of this pro ince is exceeding fertile. All kinds of black cattle ate in great numbers, and the breed of horfea is much valued. The chief towns are, Mcw-York, ScheneAida, and Albany i to which may be added Weft-Chefter. New- York, the capital of the province, is fituate in feventy-four degrees thirty minutes of weft longi- tude, and in foity-one degrees o^ north latitude. This city, which, when the Dutch were in poflTeilion of the country, was called New-Amfterdam, ftunds in the ifland of Manchattan, in the mouth of Hud- ibn'a River } an ifland about fourteen milr< long and three broad. The city contains upwards of two thou- fand houfes, built of brick and ftone i and the ftreets, though not regular, are well pared. There is one large church appropriated for the eftablifhed worftiip, befides three others, a Dutch, a French, and a Lu- theran. The town ftands on an eminence, and is furrounded by a wall. The harbour is commodious, and the trade of the city very conAderable. Schene£lida is fituated on Hudfon's River, a hun- dred miles north of New- York, and is defended by a fortrefs. Withi^i this province are the two forts of Ofwego and Ticonderoga ; the former of which is fituated in feventy-eight degrees of weft longitude, and in forty- four degrees twenty minutes of north latitude, on the fide of the lake Ontario. There the Britifh trade with the diftant Indians for fkins and furs. Ticonderugi i& fituated at the northern extremity of lake George, in feventy-three degrees twenty mi- nutes of weft longitude, and in forty-three degrees fifty minutes of north latitude. Albany ftands likewife on Hudfon's River, about a hundred and fifcy miles north of New- York. This' town is more confiderable for its trade with the Indians than for its extent. The commodities received by the people of this province are furs and (kins, for which they barter coarfe woollen goods, guns, hatchets, knives, hoes, kettles, powder, and (hot, befides (hirts, and fcveral other articles. At this place the fachems, or kings of ^be Iroquois, meet the governors of the Britifh plantations, when they enter into any treaties with them. The trade of New- York confifts in wheat, flour, fkins, furs, oil of whales and I'ea calves, iron and copper, of both which the province affords very rich mines. The inhabitants not only maiiuain a traflic with Britain, hut with Spain, Portugal, Africa, and the Weft iirlia Idandi, and even with the SpaniQi continent in America, by which means they are en- abled to pay in goiu .;.'id filvcr for the manufactures which they impoit from tiie mother-country. The internal trade of 'he province is chiefly car- ried on by waicr-rarrlsge, on Hudfon's River, which is one of the 'ineft in America. It Is navigable up- wards of two *iundred miles, and the tide flows a hundred and fifty. The inhabitants of this country are between eighry and a hundred thoufanJ. There is here a general toleration of all religions ; and conddering the health- fulnefi of the cli.r:?'.*;, and the frtility of the foil, the province is inferior to none ot the Britifh plan, tations. It is a royal government, and admioidcrcd like others of the fame clafs. On the arrival of the armament fitted out in 1664, by the duke of York, to take pofTcfTion of this terri- tory, in virtue of his patent, Nicholls, the com- mander, marched dire£lly againft the town of New- Amfterdam, now New- York, which khe Dutch go- vernor being unuble to defend, furrendered by capi- tulation. AH, the Dutch inhabitants, who were wil- ling to fubmit to the Britifh government, were per- mitted to remain, and proteAcd in their perfons and cfTedig. Above half the number accepted of thefe terms. Soon after the furrender of New Amflerdam, Ni- cholls marched to Orange Fort, which likewife ca- pitulated ; and all the flraggling plantations in the country fell under the power of the Englifli. The Dutch, however, recovered New- York in 1671, but refiored it a few months after, by the treaty of peace. After the Revolution, the French found means to excite the Hurons againft the inhabitants of New- York; and colonel Benjamin Fletcher, then governor of the provinec, was ordered to cany thither from England fome land-forces for the protection of the colony. Meanwhile, in 1690, colonel Peter Schuyler, an inhabitant of New- York, raifed three hundred Britifh fubjeifls, and as many Indians, with whom he marched againft Qtiebec. This expedition appears to have been ill concerted, as it was entirely dcftitute of heavy artillery. Schuyler, however, advanced into Canada with great intrepidity, and was oppofed by a fuperior army of French, which he engaged ; but after killing three hundred of the enemy, perceiving that his force was too fmall, he returned to New- York. A fimilar til of hoftility was in a fhort time after carried into execution by the French, who invaded the province of New- York, took and burnt the town of Scheneftida, and put the inhabitants to the fword. Fletcher not arriving, the government of New- York was at this time in a ftatc of anarchy, when colonel Leflie alTumed the direCllon of the affairs of the province, in conjunCiion with one Mr. Jacob Milbourne, both vainly imagining that they would j be continued in the government, or at leaft be ftrong enough to hold out againft the governor who had beets appointed by king William. ^ While Virginia.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. While iiffaifi were in thii fituUion Fletcher arrived | wiih his troops. He immediately fummoned Lcflie and Milb'.urne to furrender the fort, which ihey not only refufed to do, but killed one of his (oldiem. The governor, however, reducing the place in a (hort time, they were both tried for high treafon, and exe- cuted accordingly, Btfidcs the ifland of Manahattan, on which the city of New- York ftands, there are two other iflandi contiguous to the province, and comprehended under its government. One of thofe is Long-Ifland, called by the Indians, Matowacks, and by the Dutch, Naffau. It is in length from eaft to weft about a hundred and twenty miles, and, at a medium, about ten miles broad. Its fliorc is a fandy flat, as is all the eaft coaft of North America, from Cape Cod, off New England, in foriy-two degrees ten minutes of north latitude, to Cape Florida. Upon the (hore of Long Ifland are few inlets, and thofe very fliallow. Between it and Conneaicut there is a found, the wideft part of which, near the town of New Haven in that pro- vince, docs not exceed eight leagues. Two-thirds of this ifland is a barren fandy foil. It is divided into three counties, viu. Queen's county. King's county, und Suffolk county, and pays more than one fourth of the tax'ss of the province of New-York. The caftern parts of this ifland were fettled from New England, and the weftern by the Dutch, where many I for. Farm, and Windham This country is divided into four diftinft govern* ments, vie. New Hainpfhirr, or I'lltiitiiway, on the north ; the MafTachufct colony in the middle ) Rhode- Ifland, and Providence- Plantation, on the fouth | and the colony of Cunnedicut, on the weft. CONNECTICUT. The colony of Conneiflicut, which comprehends New-Haven, is bounded on the north by the MalTa* chufet colony, on the eaft by another part of Mafia- chufer, and Rhode -Ifland, on the fuuth by an arm of the fea, which divides it from Long-Ifland, and on the weft by New- York; being about a hundred miles in hngth, and eighty in breadth. It is divided into the following counties, vie. New-London, Hertford^ New-Haven, and Fairfield county. New-London county is fituated on both fides of the river Connecticut, and contains the fubfequent towns, namely, New-London, Saybrook, Lyme, Stonitnn, Pi'cfton, Danteick, Norwich, Lebanon, and KiU lingworth. The county of Hertford is contiguous to that of London on the north, and lies alfo on both fides of the river Conneaicut. It contains .e towns, of Hertford, FaTnin^fton, Glaftonbury, Hadham, Mid- dletoiN Simfbury, Waterbury, Weathersfield, Wind- families to this day underftand no other language but that of the latter. The confluence of the eaft and weft tide, in Long-Ifland found, is at Hell-gate, about twelve miles from the city of New- York. In the middle of this ifland is a plain, fixteen miles long and four broad, to which they give the name of Saliftjury-Plain, having, as is faid, as fine a turf as that on Saliftjury-Plain in Old England. There being in the ifland an excellent breed of horfei, there are races here every feafon, to which there is a great refort of company from New-England and New-York. Staten-Ifland is fituate about a league weftward of Long-Ifland, and is foparated from Perth-Amboy in Jerfey, by a creek about a mile over. Thii ifland is near twelve miles long and fix broad, and makes one county, called Richmond, which pays not fo much as a twentieth part of the provincial tax. It is all one parift), but contains an Englifli, French, and Dutch congregation. The inhabitants are moftly of the former nation, and there is only one confiderable village, called Cuckold'* Town. * NEW- ENGLAND. New- England is bounded on the weft by New- York, on the north-weft by Canada, on the north- caft by Nova Scotia, or Acadia, and on the eaft and fouth by the Atlantic Ocean. It is fituate between fixty-feven and feventy-three degrees of weft longi- tude, and between forty-one and forty-five degrees of north latitude ; being about three hundred miles in length, and from one hundred to two hundred broad. No. 51. New-Haven county is bounded by that of Hertford on the north, by London county on the eaft, the fea on the fouth, and Fairfield county on the weft. The towns in this county are, New- Haven, Braiiiford, Darby, Guilford, Milford, and Wellington. Fairfield county alfo lies upon the fea, between the county of New- Haven on the eaft, and the province of Nev/-York on the weft. The towns are, Fairiield> Danbury, Greenwich, Norwalk, Rye, Stamford^ Stratford, and Woodbury. The conftitution of this colony is that of a charter government, the people having the choice of their own governor, deputy-governor, council, and afTembly. r R H O D E - I S L A N D. Rhode-Ifland is fituated in Narrnganfet-Bay, on the fouth-eaft of the province of New- England. It is about fifteen miles long, and fix broad, and has fe-- veral fmaller iflands annexed to it. This colony has alfo a charter government, under which is compre- hended Providence Plantation, containing a diftridl about twenty miles fquare on the neighbouring con- tinent. The chief town of Rhode-Ifland is Newport, fitu- ate towards the fouth-weft, in forty- one degrees odd minutes north latitude. It has a very fecure and com- modious harbour, defended at the entrance by a re- gular fort, on which are planted thirty pieces of large cannon. Providence-Plantation has two port- towns, one of which is called Providence, and the other Warwick. Rhode-Ifland and Providence-Plantation are alfo > charter government. 7 P MASSA. ¥ 630 II M O R N [America. M A S S A C II U S E T DAY. THE Mall'ichtifct colony, is bnunJcd on the weft byConnriflicut and Niw Y'urk.on the north by New Hampshire, and on the ea(l and fouth by the Atlantic Ocean i bvin|r about a hundred miiei long, and fo ty broad. i his colony is dininguKhed into Maflaciiufet Proper, Maine, and Plymouth i the firl) of which ii n^nin fubdividcd into the c< unties of Suffolk, Middlcfex, and Kflcx, all fituatcd on the Alaffachuret Bay. The chief towns in Madachufct Proper " , Bodon, Bruintree, Dedhum, Dorchd'er, Kinghorn, Hull, Medfield, Menden, IVIilton, Roxborou^h, Wey- mouth, Woodftoclc, Wrcntham, Brooklin, ; nd Need- ham. Boflon, the capital of this colony, and of all New England, is fituate in feventy one degree five iTiinutes weA longitude, and in fcrty-two degrees twenty-four ininutes of north l.ititudc. It rtands on a peninfula, about four miles in circumference, at the bottom of a fine bay. In the entrance of the bay are feveral rocks, that appear above water, and a dozen foiall iflanil fomc of which are inhabited. The harbour can be approached only by one fafc channel, fo n.irrow that three ihips can hardly fail through abreafl; but within the harbour, there is room for five hundred fail to lie at . iiclior. The en- trance is defended by tlie caftle of Fori Willianr;, mounting a hundred guns, twenty of which lie on a plaiforni, level with the water. To prevent any fur- ftife,, a guard Is placed on one of the rocks, about two leagues dif^ant, on which alfo is a light houfe, whence a f:gnal is made to the caflle, when any (hip comet in light. There is alfo a battery of great guns at the end of the town, which commands the harbour. At the bottom of the bay, is a pier, or mole, near two thoufand foot in length, with the merchants warehoufes on the north fide of it; to which (hips of the greatefl burden may come up, and unload without the help of boats. The town of Boflon lies in the form of a crefcent about the haibour. There are in it feveral flreets not much inferior to the beft in London, the chief of which runs from the pier to the Town-Houfc, or Guild' Hall, a handfoiiie building, and rendered more commodious by containing walks for the merchants. Here are alfo the council-chamber, the houfe of re- prefentatives, and the courts of juflice. There are ten churches belonging to people of different pcr- fuafions. Six of thofeare independents, which is here the eft^blifhcd church. There is befides an cpifcopal church, handfomely built and adorned. The number of inhabitants is computed to be about twenty thou- fand. Behind the town, the country rifcs gradually ', tliofc is fitu^.ted in an ifland of the fime name, lyinjj foulhciift of the main lamJ, near which is one of the mod confiderable fifheries in New Lngl.md, which renders this town a flourifliing place. The towns in th« county of Plymouth, which is the Chelmsford, Concord, Lexinston, Grotton, Lan- cafter, Marlborough, M,ilden, Franiingham, Mcd- ford, Newton, Oxford, Riading, Slierbutn, Stow, Studbury, Eaft-Waterton, W'eflon, VV'oburn, and Worceftcr, The principal of thofe is Cumbiidgr, commonly called Newton, fituatcd on ihc northern biaiieh uf Charles river, about three miles from lioHon, llcrc are feveral wc'il-built fircets, but it is mull cun- fidcrable for iii univcrfiiy, confiding of three col- leges. There was ulfo a college built for the cduca- tinii of Indians ; but this is now converted into a priniing-houfc, the education of the Indiana in the learned languages being found impradlicable, Thtf univerfity is governed by a prcfidcnr, and five fel- 'ows, with the treafurer, who have each a competent Oipend. The number of fludrnts rcfilent in all the colleges may be about a hundred and fifty. Their vi> fitors, or ovcrfeers, are the governor, ar.d deputy- governor, with the magiflrates of the province, and the miniftcrs of fix adjacent towns. The inoft northerly county of Maffachufct Proper is Efl'cx, which contains the towns of Salem, Amef^ bury, Salifbury, fiavcrhill, Newbury, Boxford, Row- ley, Ipl'wich, TopsficlJ, Bradford, Gloucefler, Man- ihefter, Beverley, Marblehead, Lynn, Wenham, and Andover. The chief of thole is Salem, which flands in a plain, near the confluence of two rivers, by which it is watered on each fide. It has cwo harbours, one called the Summer, and the other the VVintcr har- bour. A little northward of this town lies the pro- montory called Cape Anna, cflcemcd a good fiation for fifhing ; and farther north (lands Newbury, plea- fantly fituated at the mouth of Mcrimack river, where they take a great quantity of flurgeon, and pickle them in the fame manner as in the Hiliic, Between this town and Salifbury, which lies on the oppofite fide of the Merimack, there is a condant ferry, half a mile over. The feccnd divifion of the Maffachufet government is that of Plymouth, which lies fouth of Maffachufet Proper, and contains the counties of Plymouth, Barn- flable, and firidol. The nioft foutherly of thofe is the county of Bridol, which contains the towns of Bridol, Swan- fey, Rohoboth, Norton, Dartmouth, Taunton, Dighton, Little Compton, Attlcborough, and Free- town, Bridol, the principal town, is fituated on a ccmmodious harbour, at the entrance of which lies Rhode Ifland. The county of Barnftable lies contiguous to Ply- mouth on the fouth-eafl. In this divifion is the pro- montory of Cape Cod, which forms a large commo- dious bay, capable of containing a thoufand ,ail of fliips. The chief towns of this county arc, Darndaple, Faftham, Manimay, Truro, Rochefler, Sandwich, Yarmouth, Harwick, and Nantucket, The latter of into hills, and affords a moft delightful profpc(5l from the fea. Middlefex county lies north of that of Suffolk. Its ch^ftcwns are, Cambridge, Biilcrica, Charles-Town, New Hampshire.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. fnt the mod northfrlv, are, New-Plymouth, Bridgewater, Duxbury, Marftificid, Scitiiate, Middlcbliry, Pem- broke, and Plymptoii. The chief of thofe ii New- Plymouth, fituatcd on the fourh fide of a large bay, and ii the oldcft town in the province. The third gr^ind diviflon of the MafTachufet go- vernment is Maine, contiguous to Nuva Scotia in the northeaft. The chief towns arc, Falmouth, Jjco or Scarborough, Wells, Ilcdcck or New- dftle, Edger Town, York, Kattercn, Berwick, and Biddeford. The government of the Maflachufct colony, in- cluding its feveral diverfions, is • compound of the royal and charter governmenti i the king nominating the governor, but the aflembly of reprefentatives ap- pointing the council, or upper houfe. NEW HAMPSHIRE. THE province of New Hampfliire, or Pifcataway, is bounded on the fouih by that of the Mafla- chufrt's Bay, on the weft by New- York, on the north by Nova Scotia, and on the eaft by the Atlantic occ<>n. The foil of this province is not fertile, li.: greater part of it being yet foreil. The chief towns are, Dover, Portfmouth, Exeter, and Hampton, all fituatcd near the mouth of the river Pifcataway. Be- fid ;s thofc, there are many towns in the inland coun- :ry, though not of great note. The country of New England, towards the coafl, is generally low, but in the other parts it becomes gradually elevated, .^nd in the north-eaft is rocky and mountainous. The weather here is not fo variable as in Old England, but the feafons are much more intem- perate. The north and north-weft winds blowing overa long trafl of frozen country, render the winter very cold 'i and the ground is not only covered with fnow during feveral months, but the navigation on the coaft is totally obftru£led by the ice. The warmth of the fummcr compcnfates the (hortncfs of its du- ration, and is proportionable to the rigour of the preceding feafon. The climate however appears to be as healthful as that of any of our plantations in North America, Round Maflachufet's Bay, the foil is black, and as rich as in any part of England, The uplands are lefs fruitful, being for the moft part a mixture of fand and gravel, inclining to clay. But even here a fufiicient quantity of corn, and culinary vegetables is produced for the fubfiftcnce of the inhabi- tants. Few colonies are better watered with rivers and lakes than New England, though the latter are not fo confidcrable as thofe to the weft and northward. Seven of the rivers are navigable, all abound in fi(h, and many of them anfwer every purpofe cf com- merce. Conne£)icut river, in particular, is navi- gable a great way by the iargefl veflels. It rifes in the northern frontier of the province, and runs di- rc rival of the Europeans. The ear of this corn is a« bout a fpan lung, compofed of eight nr more rows of g.ain, according to the quality of the foil, and hav- ing about thirty grains in each row. By this calcu« lation, every ear, at a medium, produces about two hundred and forty grains, which is an aftoniftiing in* cteafe. It is of various colours, red, white, jelloWt black, greer, ate, and the divcrflty often appears not only in the Tame field, but in the fame ear of cornj though white and yellow be the moft frequent. The ear is included in flrong thick hulks, which defend it ' from the cold, la many of the provinces in North America, the ftalk grows feven or eight foot high, and proportionably ftrong and thick. It is jointed like a cane, and is fupplied with a juice as fweet as that of the fugar cane } but from the experiments which have been made, it feems not to be accommodated to any ufeful purpofe. Every joint is marked with a long leaf or flag, and, at the top, flioots a branch of flowers like rye bloflToms. The ufual time of fowing, ' or, as it is heic called, of planting, is from the middlo of April to the middle of May ; though in the northern countries, the corn is not put in the ground before June. But on account of the extreme warmth of fummer, the harveft arrives in due feafon. This corn the Indians boil till it is tender, and eat with fifli, fowl, or flefli, as bread. Sometimes they previoufly bruife it in mortars, but the moft ufual preparatory method is to dry the corn high, without burning. The Englifh bake it into bread in the fame manner as flour. But the bcft food made from it is famri. This is procured by fteeping the corn in water for half an hour, after which it is beat in a mortar until it is thoroughly cleared of the hufk. It is then fifted, and boiled, and eaten with milk, or butter and fugar, like rice. Good ftrong beer may alfo be brewed from it green, without ufing the ex- penfive European method of malting. New England produces great variety of fowl.i, fuch as geefe, ducks, heni, turkeys, partridges, &c, with plenty of all thofe quadrupeds which are more imme- diately neceiTary to human fubfiftence and conveni- ence. All kinds of European cattle thrive here, and multiply exceedingly. The horfcs of the province are hardy and mettlefome, but fmall. Here alfo are elks, deer, htref, rabbits, fquirrels, beavers, otters, nonkeys. 1% 6»t HE MOD ir.onkeyt, ricooni, (Me», bears, wnUri, Inxcf, (iiiiKC!, with many other (|iiadrupcJi, both vvilii anU lame. '1 he mod extraordinary of thofe aniiti.ili li the moofC'ilerr. The body of this fpec':! ii about the fizc ol' a bull. 'I'hc buck fumetiinri mcalurci fnur- tecn fpans in height from the wiiheri, reckunini; nine inches a l|)an. The moofe patli the hoof, chrws the cud, and is faid to have no gall, Iti cart aie l.irgc and ereiil. The horns, when full grown, are aboii' five foot front (he head to the tip, having branches to each horn, and they generally fpread abuut fix fuui. This fpeciri of deer dues not fpring ur rife, in gnin^', as the other kinds, but (huves along lijcways, throw- ing out its feet like a horfe in • rocking pave. I'hc flefh of the moofe deer is reputed excclle-it food, though not fo delicate as the conimom venifon, and will bear falting. The New England whales are of fcveral kinds, The right, or whalebone whale is very bulk) , mea> Turing fixty or feventy foot in length. In Ac. I of fciles, ic has a foft, fmooth (kin. On e;uii Tide is a iin, from fiv** to eight foot long ) which they ufc only in turning thcnfelves, unlcl's when young, and carried by the dam on the flukes of her tail, at which time they clafp their fins about her, to hold themlclves firm. This fifli, when brought forth, is about twenty fuot long, and of little valu<-, but then the dam is very fat. At a year old, when they are called fhort heads, they are very fat, and yirld fifty barrels of oil i at which time the dam, though ot grcnter bulk, will not yield more than thirty, At two years old they receive the name of flunto, being Hunted after weaning, and will then yield generally from twenty- four to twenty-eight barrels. After this they are termed fcull-fifli, their age being unknown, and only guefl'ed at by the length of the bones in their mouths. The eyes of the whale are not l.nrger than thofc of an ox, and arc placed in the back part of the l:c.id where the animal is broadefl. In place of e.irs, it has two fmall holes, hardly perceptible; but within the head, immediately under thofc, are organs well formed, by which it has an acute fcnfatiun of found. It has two pipes on the top of the hc.id, that fervc the double office of breathing, and difcharging the water it has fwallowed, which is thence often fpurted to a confiderable height, and in great qunntit/. The mouth is between four and fivi; fatho.-ns wide, and the lips broad and thick, of enormous weight. The animal has no teeth, and its gullet is very nar- row. The tongue is about eighteen foot long, and ten broad, covered with thick hairs, like thofe of a horfe, and fattened to thofe bones in the upper y.\w, which are called the whalebone. The privities of the male arc on the outfide, as in quadrupeds ; the yard is near fourteen foot long, and one foot thick. The female feldom brings forth more than one young at a time; the male is between fixty and feventy foot long, but the female of a larger fize. The finback whale is dillinguifhcd from the right whale, by having a fin on the back, from two fuot i R N Amkrica] and a half, lu four fuot long ; and ih* bunch or humpback whale, by having a bunch, in place wf tli« Hn in the preceding kind. The fpermaceti whalo is nearly of the fame dimcn* fions, but IS of a greyilh colour, whereas tlu othirt arc black. This fpecies has likewif* a hump on the back, but no whaleboia in lh« mouth | Inflcad of which there are rows of fine icctli in each jaw about five or fix inches lung. 1 he whales in general are gregarious, but the dif. I'erent fpecies keep fcparate, I'hey arc fomciimci fi>iin(i to the number of a hundred in a fl(ull or ihoal i and they are great travellers. In the autumn, the whalebone whales go wellward, and in (he fpring call ward. New F.ngland abounds in excellent timber, oak( .ifli, pine, fir, cedar, elm, cyprefs, beech, walnut, chcfnut, heial, fafl'afras, fuinach, and other woods ufid in dying, or tanning leather, capenteri woik, and (Iiip-building. So great was the havock made in the fureHs, that an t£k of parliament was pafl'ed to re* flrain It, by infliiling penaltiet on thofe who cut down trees of a certain kind, before they were ar- rived at a fpecified growth and age. The pines are equal to thofe of Norway in growth and ftraitnefs) but the oak is reckoned inferior in quality to that of England. On the firfl .vrival of the EngliOi, this country was inhabited by twenty different nation! or tribes, independent of each other, and commanded by their refpcdive chii.fs. In the year 1606, king James I, by Ictteis patent, ereded two companies, which were empowered to fend colonies to Virginia, the name aC that time of the whole notth-caft coaft of America. One of thofe companies was called the Plymouth company, which fur fume years traded only with the natives of North Virginia, or New England, for furs, and (iflied upon the co.ill. In 1614, two fliips were employed in this fifher/, comni.mded by the captains Smith a ul Hunt. Th-; former of thole returning to England, left orders with Hunt to fail Tor Spain, and there difpofe of the filli which he had taken. But previous to performing this voyage. Hunt enticed twenty- feven Indiats on board his fhip, whom, failing to Malaga, he fold for flaves at the rate of twenty pounds a man ; an a{k of treachery which was fo much rcfented by the Indians, that all commerce with them was broken ofF for fome time. About the year 1619, fome pcrfons of the independ- ent pcifiiafioi), who were uneafy at their being re- quired to conform to the church of England, pur- chafed the Plymouth patent, and at the fame time obtained another from the king, for fending colonies fo America. A hundred and fifty emigrants of this clafs arrived at Cape Cod in New England, in i6ao, where they built a town to which they gave the name of New Plymouth, and eleiSled one Carver their go- vernor. The Indians being engaged in wars among thcm- felves, gave thofe ftrangcrs no difturbance ; and Mafiacoit, prince of the Mafliichufet nation, learning from one Quanto, an Indian, who had been carried New England.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 10 Europe, whti ■ powerful people the EiikIiA) were, ■ ' II... .„., i_,in™ am) riircrcd 6ij treA forirtAfi, *nd extend iheir retelemtnli wtfl- ward. without the Invt of ih« naiivei AUrmtd once on the point of tranfporting thcmlelve) thither, with Oliver Cromwell, Sir Arthur HaOerig, and others, when they were prevented from it by a procla- mation, which prohibited people from quitting the kingdom without a licence. Thofe patentees after- wards fold their inlered in the plantations Other adventurers planted New Hamplhire, Provi- dence, and Rhode Ifland ; the laft being chiefly qualceri, driven out oF the MalTachufet colony by the independents, from whom they had long fufCered perfecution, for not conforming to their fc£l ; and fuch was the iittolerant fpirit of thofe zealots, that they hanged fome of the quakers on thii account. All the provinces of New England were planted in the fpace of twenty years, reckoning frorr the ar- rival of the Rid colony at New Plymout'.i, during which time they met with little interruption from the Indians; till the planters u Connecticut began to No. 52. rhofJBtrkiH SrHtfi . temptible that is to dc iuumu m im ■iiiiai9 ui niin« kind. An unaccountable frenzy poflefled thofe puri« tans, that they were under the power of witches and evil fpirits. The ftrange infatuation began at the town of Salem, towards the end of the year 1691. A per« fon named Paris was the minifler of this place. Ha had two daughters, both children troubled with convulfions, which being accompanied with fome of thofe extraordinary a|^pearant.ii. .■.■•''") .^■'' > Tjimt;— r-r-*- ■ - - ■ ■ ' » ■ ■ iVit^ .... [ ^'»- ■ -^ .,„«vS. ^■' r -sis..-, ^A/. .:^v;i.Y the head, immediately under thofe, arc organs well formed, by which it has an acute fcnfation of found. It has two pipes on the top of the head, that ferve the double office of breathing, and difchargihg the water it has fwallowed, which is thence often fpurted to a confiderable height, and in great quantity. The mouth is between four and five fathnms wide, and the lips broad and thick, of enormous weight. The animal has no teeth, and its gullet is very nar- row. The tongue i> about eighteen foot long, and ten broad, covered with thick hairs, like thofe of a horfe, and faflened to thofe bones in the upper jaw, which are called the whalebone. The privities of the male are on the outfide, as in quadrupeds ; tiie yard is near fourteen foot long, and one foot thick. The female feldom brings forth more than one young at a time; the male is between fixty and feventy foot long, but the female of a larger fize. The finback whale is didinguifhcd from the right whale, by having a fin on the back, from two foot previous to performing this voyage, i.iu... .. twenty- feven Indiats on hoard his fhip, whom, failing to Malaga, he fold for flaves at the rate of twenty pounds a man ; an ad of treacheiy which w>j fo much rcfented by the Iiiiians, that all commerce with th-fm was broken off for fome time. About the year 1619, fome perfons of the independ- ent perfuafion, who were uneafy at their being re- quired to conform to the church of England, pur- Lhafed the Plymouth patent, and at the fame time obtained another from the king, for fending colonies to America. A hundred and fifty emigrants of this ciafs arrived at Cape Cod in New England, in 1620, where they built a town to which they gave the name of New Plymouth, and clei^ed one Carver their go- vernor. The Indians being engaged in wars among thcm- felves, gave thofe Grangers no difturbance ; and NialTacoit, prince of the Mafiachufet nation, learning from one Ci;ianto, an Indian, who had been carried to ICA.} New England.] GENERAL TRAVfiLLER. 62j ^VA,«i^^; :; 1 f '■^'•^i »V\. failing wcnty ^^-! fo : with peud- g re- pur- time onies thit 1620, rume r go. dem- and ning rried to Europe, what a powerful people the Engliifh were, made Carver a vifit the following fpring, and entered into an alliance offenfive and defenfive with the fettlers, by whofe afllflance he hoped to conquer the Nar- rsganfet nation, with which he was then at war. He agreed to acknowledge the king of England his fovcreign, and made a ceflion of part of his country to the new planters. Other fachrms, or princes, foon followed the example of Mafl'acoit, and defired the prote£iioii of the Englifli againd their enemiei, pro- feffing themfelves alfo fubjedls to the Englifh crown. More emigrants frequently arriving, the colony foon became well eftablifhed ; but religious diflxrences broke out among them, which had nearly proved fa- tal. The independents, who were the mod nume rous, not allowing a toleration to any other fedl, feveral adventurers removed to other parts of the coun try, and fome returned home } by whii.h defeflion the colony was fo much weakened, that had not the Indian* been occupied with intelUne divifions, the '\ngli(h muft have been expelled from this part of A- mcrica. In the year 1627, another fet of adventurers pur- chafed of the Plymouth company all that part of New England, which lies between the rirer Merimack and Charles river } and having procured a confirmation of this grant from Charles I. they nominated one Cradock their governor. This new company fitted out fix (hips, with three hundred planters, furniflied with live cattle, and all manner of neceflary (lores and provifions ; and ar riving on the Maflachufet coaft, built the town of Salem, between the promontory of Marblehead and Cape Anna. The governor who had been nominated refufing to go, they appointed one Winthorp in his room; and in 1630 built Bofton, the prefent capi. tal of the province. The fame year Charles I. granted part of the country of Conne£licut to the Earl of Warwick, which was afterwards purchafcd of the patentee by the vifcount Say and Scale, loid Brook, Sir Nathaniel Rich, Charles Fiennes, John Pym, and John Hamp- den. The two latter of thufe were the moll ftrcnu- ous oppofers of the king, and are faid to have been once on the point of tranfporting themfelves thither, with Oliver Cromwell, Sir Arthur Haflerig, and others, when they were prevented from it by a procla- mation, which prohibited people from quitting the kingdom without a licence. Thofe patentees after- wards fold their intereA in the plantations Other adventurers planted New Hamplhire, Provi- dence, and Rhode Ifland ; the laft being chiefly quakeri, driven out of the MaiTachufet colony by the independents, from whom they had long fuftered perfecution, for not conforming to their fc£i ; and fuch was the intolerant fpirit of thofe zealots, that they hanged fome of the quakers on this account. All the provinces of New England were planted in the fpace of twenty years, reckoning from the ar- rival of the firft colony at New Plymouth, during which time they met with little interruption from the Indians; tiU the planters at Connecticut began to No. 5a. ereA fortrefles, and extend their feltlements wefi- ward, without the leave of the natives Alarmed at this encroachment, the fachem Metacomet, fon of Mafl'acoit, difpatched meflengers through all the tribes of the Indians, exhorting them to take up arms in defence of their country. A general ihfurre^lion en- fued, and the natives proved fuccefsful ih fevtral eh> counters } btit Metacomet being (lain, the Englifh dt length prevailed. Great numbers of the Indians were) maflacred, while others abandoning the country, joln« ed the French in Canada, who received them under their protection. Towards the clofe of the reign of Charles 11. im- mediately fubfequent to thofe events, a writ of quo warranto was ilTued againft the colony of New Ply- mouth, and judgment was entered iri Chancery. Iii 1683 and 1684, it met with the fame perfecution ; but when the quo warranto was fent againft Connecticut and Newhaven, their governments were given to uii« derftand, by a letter from the king, that if they quietly refigned their charter, they might have it in their option to be aiTociated either with the colony of New York, or that of Maflachufet j upon which they chofe the latter. About the fame period, Rhode Ifland refigned its charter, as did alfo the colonies of New Hampfliire and Maine ; fince which time their governor and council have been named by the king, but the governor has generally been the fame with that of the MalTachufet's, The affairs of New England remained in a flate of tranquility henceforth till the Revolution, when the Indians began to complain of being interrupted in their fiihery upon Saco river ; that their fields were trefpafTed upon by the Englifh cattle, and that the government of Bofton had given away their lands. It appears that thofe complaints were not made without fufficient ground, and they proved the foundation of a courfe of mutual hoftilities between the planters and Indians for fome time. Soon after the Revolution iii 1688, a number of non-conformifts, who had been turned out of their livings by the Bartholomew aCt, reforted to this pro- vince, which they filled with theological difputes | the prelude to a delufioh the mofl ridiculous and con- temptible that is to be found in the annals of man* kind. An unaccountable frenzy poflefTed thofe pur!* tans, that they were under the power of witches ahd evil fpirits. The ftrange infatuation began at the town of Salem, towards the end of the year 1691. A per- fon named Paris was the minifter of this place. Ht had two daughters, both children troubled with convulfions, which being accompanied with fome of thofe extraordinary appearan(!e« not unfrequent in fuch diforders, he imagined they were bewitched. This being taken for granted, the next objeCt was to dif- cover the perfon who had bewitched them. He im- mediately fixed his fufpicion on an Indian woman named Tituba, his fervant, and two others } whom he frequently beat, and ufed with fo much feverity, that Titub7, at laft confefled herfelf the witch, and wa* committed to jail, where fhe lay for a long time. Authorifed by this fuppofed confirmation, the frenzy 7 Q. foon 6a4 THE M D N [America. Canada foon fpread its pernicioui contagion over the pro- vince. The next ubje£l of accufation was one Mr. Burroughs, a man of unbleniifhed chara£ler, who had formerly been minifter of Salem ; but upon fome of the religious difputes which divided the country, ie differed with his flock and left them. This man was tried with two others, for witchcraft, by a fpecial commiflion of oyer and terminer, dircAed to fome of the gentlemen of the beft fortunes, and reputed to be of the beft underftandings in the country. The wit- neflrs againft him were five women, who pretended to be bewitched by him, and eight confefling witches ; the latter fwearing he wat the principal niXoT in their nightly revels, and was promtfed the fceptre of fatnn's kingdom, then about to be created. This evidence was corroborated by that of the perfons bewitched, who unanimoufly depofed, that a fpc£lre refembling the prifoncr, but inviflble to others, tormented them in their fits. One of the witnefles fwore that the pri- foner preflied her to kt her hand to a book, and in- fliiSled cruel pains on ner when fhe refufed. Others depofed, that he founded a trumpet for the witches to rendezvous at a facrament, and tempted thofe whom he tormented to partake with them. Another fwore that he carried her to the top of a high mountain, and (hewed her glorious kingdoms, faying, he would give them all to her, if Ihe would fign his book. The confelEng witches depofed, that he gave them puppets, into which they were to flick thorns, which he alfo gave them, for the purpofe of afHifling all the people cf Saiem. Some perfons of credit depofed, that he had the Arength of a giant, and inftanced his lifting great weights i but the defendant urged that an Indian in court had done the fame. Others t. \\f\ed he had been cruel to his wives, who often complained to the neighbours that his houfe was troubled with evil fpirits. The prifoner denied the whole charge, which he farther invalidated by declaring it to be his opinion, that never any perfon made a forma! contraiSl with the devil. He was however convicted, and fcntence of death patTcd upon him. Being brought to the fcaffbld, he made folemn proteflations of his innocence, and behaved with fo much compofur; and devotion, that the companion of the people was excited. It was expelled that the magiflrates who attended him would have refpited his execution ; but his accufers crying out that he was afSfted by the devil, he was turned off, and the body afterwards dragged into a hole, without being per mitted a decent burial. Upon fifflilar evidence, in a little time after, twenty- eight perfons received fentence of death ; the greater part of them in fentiments of the moft exemplary piety, and with the flrongefl profefllons of their innocence. One man, refufing to plead, fufFered in the cruel manner the law direfled on that occafion, by a flow prelTure to death. Reafon and humanity feemed to be extinguiftled by the frantic infatuation of the people, and the mofl ordinary and innocent anions were interpreted into magical ceremonie;. Even children of eleven years old were committed to prifon upon the charge of forcery. Women were flnppcd, in the moft fliameful manner, to fearch them for ma- gical teats. The fcorbutic fpots common on the (k\n of old perfons, were affirmed to be thedcvil'b pinches: this was confidered as evidence of the moft indifptitable nature. As fuch they alfo admitted every idle re- port, and even (lories of ghofls, which they diOin- guifhed by the name of fpedlral evidence. To fo unaccountable a degree di.' the dcluficn operate, thac fome women acknowledged they had been lain with by the devil. The unhappy perfons who fufFered the torture, being not more prefTed to own themfelves guilty, than to difcover their accomplices, unable to give any real account, named people at random, who were immediately taken up, and treated in the fame cruel manner, upon (his extorted evidence. Some preventing accufation, charged themfelves with witchcraft, and thereby cfenpcd death. Others fled the province ; and many more were preparing to fly. The prifons were crowded, people were exe- cuted daily, yet the number of the witches and the ■ bewitched increafed every hour. A magiftrate, who committed forty perfons for this crime, fatigued with fo difagreeable an employment, and afhnmcd of his condudl, refufid to grant any more warrants. He was hin-.fcif immediately accufed of forcery, and with difficulty faved his life, by making his efcape olit of the province. A jury, flruck with the afFecling manner and fo- lemn protellations of innocence of a young Woman brought before them, ventured to acquit her; but the judges refufed to accept their venliift, and forced them to find the woman guilty ; in confequence of which determination (he was immediately executed. The magiftrates and minifters, whofe prudence ought to have been employed in alTuaging the public infa- tuation, ferved only to render it more obftinate. They encouraged the accufers, they aflifled at the examina- tions, and they extorted the confeflions of thofe who were the vi£lims of the popular fury. Upon this occafion, none flgnalized their zeal more than Sir William Phipps, the governor, a native of the province, of mean birth r education ; with In- creafe Mather, and Cotton Mather, two fanatical members of the New-England church. Several of the moft popular minifters, after twenty perfons had been executed, addrelTcd the governor with thanks for what he had done, and exhorted him to proceed in fo laudable a work. The people began at length to ac- cufe the judges themfelves, The nearefl relations of Increafe Mather were involved in the charge of witch- craft, and even fome perfons in the governor's own family were criminated. It was now high time to flem the torrent The accufers were difcouraged by authoiity, and one hundied and fifty perfons, who lay in prifon, were difch.irgcd. The people became afliamed of their infatuation j a general fafl was ap- pointed J and the purif.ms pr.iyod (icd to pardon all theerron of his people in a late- tr.igedy, raifcd among them by fatan and his inftrumcnts. Such Such wa which thre and had w< fentiments to abolifh had hithertt bitants, th( forth a gre: experienced lony. Canada.] Such was the cnJ of this extraordinary madnefs, which threatened defolation to the whole province, and had well nigh extinguiflicd in every bread the fentimcnts of nature and humanity. By its tendency to abolifli all religious diftiniHions, however, which had hitherto excited much animofity amoni; the inha- bitants, the people of New-Engl.ind enjoyed hence- forth a greater degree of internal quiet than they had experienced fince the earlicft fettlcment of the co- lony. NOVA SCOTIA. ■ NOVA SCOTIA, or Acadia, is bound oji the weft by New-England and Canada, on the north by the river of St. Lawrence, on the eaft by the bay of St. Lawrence and the Atlantic Ocean, and on the fouth by the fame ocean and the bay of Fundi j extending betwien fixty-threc and fcventy degrees of weft longitude, and between forty-three and forty- fix degrees of north latitude. This country is one extcnfivc foreft, in which are numerous lakes and rivers. A chain of mountains extends along the fouth bank of the river of St. Lawrence, called the Lady mountains, whence iffue feveral ftreams, which difcharge thcmfelves into the northern boundary of the province. The rivers of St. John, Penobfcot, and St. Croix, run to the fouthward, and fall into the bay of Fundi, The firP of thofe, which is the largeft, is navigable for fmall velTels .ilmoft through its whole courfe. The weather in Nova Scotia runs upon extremes, the fummers being very hot, and the winters ex- ceffively cold, the latter of which is likcwife of long duration. The ground is generally not fertile, and produces fo little corn, that the inhabitants are obliged to fupply themfelves with this article from other parts. Timber, however, is plentiful here, as well as all forts of game, and there is an excellent cod- fifliery on the fand-banks near the coaft. The chief town is Annapolis, fituate in fixty-four degrees five minutes of weft longitude, and in forty- five degrees ten minutes of north latitude. It flands on a fine bay, and has an excellent harbour, capable of containing a thoufand vcflcls. Canfo is fituated on an ill.ind near the fouth-eaR point of the pcninfula. Other town? in the province are, 'Nuremberg, inhabited chiefly by Germans, Minncs, Chcncdo, and Hiilifax, the latter of which hp.s alfo the advantage of a fafe and commodious har- bour. In the year 1621, James I. king of Great Britain, granted this counrty to Sir William Alexander, fe- cretary of flate for Scotland j giving it the name of N w-Scolland, and ordaining it to be governed by the laws of that kingdom, of which it was to be con- Julcrcd as a fief. Sir William Alexander in mediate ly began to cflahlifli a fettlcment ; but Charles I. marrying the princefs Henrietta Maria, daughter of Henry IV. of France, ceded Nova Scotia to the crown. A war fonji after breaking out between that two kingdoms, Sir D.iviil Kirk w.is fcnt by king GENERAL TRAVELLER. 625 Charles with an armament to recover the country, who not only reduced Acadia, .but made a conqueit of the territory north weft of the river of St. Law- rence, and took the town and cattle of Quebec, of, which be was conftituted governor. At a fubfequ^itt. treaty the province was again ceded to the FrcncU crown i but recovered by Oliver Cromwell in 1654. Charles II. at the treaty of Breda, in 1667, re« ftored Nova Scotia to France It was again taken by Sir William Phipps, gove.-nor of New England^ in 169O ) but relinquifbcd by king William at the peace ofRyfwick. By the treaty of Utrecht, how- ever, in 1713, it was finally furrcndercd by the French, and has fince continued to form a part of the Britifl) dominions in America. N D A. CANADA is bounded on the eaft by the river of St. Lawrence, which divides it from Nova Scotia and New England; on the fouth by the Huron and other lakes, which feparate it from Louifiana ; on the weft by parts unknown ; and on the north by the country of the Efkimaux, or New-Britain, and Hudfon's Bay; extending from fixty-five to one hun* dred degrees of weft longitude, and from forty to fifty degrees of north latitude. This country abounds in fpacious lakes, the chief of which are the Huron and Illinois, each of them meafuring feveral hundred miles in extent. The principal river is that of St. Lawrence, which rifes out of the great lakt Ontario, or Frontenac, in forty- five degrees of north latitude, and fevcnty-elght of weftern longitude, and running to the north-eaft, difcharges itfclf into the bay or gulph of St. Law- rence i being navigable for large ved'cls as high a$ Montreal. The principal fifli inhabiting the river St, Law- rence, from its gulph to the lakes, are a great va- riety of fmall whales, particularly the foufficur. For- poifes, dolphins, and fea-cows, are innumerable, Tho latter is an amphibious animal, of the fite of anoxj its (kin refembling that of a fea dog, and having a mouth like a cow, with two projeAing teeth, crooked, and about half a yard long. The fore-feet are like thofe of a cow, and the hinder feet webbed in the manner of geefc. This animal is ftrong, wild, and very difficult to be taken un (bore. It is f^iid to eat neither flefh nor fifh ; its food being fuppofed to con- fift only of a f^bmarine weed, known by the name of fea forrel. The inhabitants catch thofe animals by the follow- ing ftratagem : they tie a bull to a ftake, fmcd near the fhorc, in the depth of tjvo foot water. They beat and torment him, by twifting his tail, till they make him roar; when, hearing his cries, the fea- cows crawl about him, and are taken. Here arc alfo falmon, eels, bafs, mackarel, her- rings, haddock, turbet, &c, 7'hc capital of Canada is Quebec, fituat: on the weft fide of the river of St. Lawrence, in /ixtynine degrees 686 '^ H E MODERN [Amekica. degrees forty-eight minutes of weft longitude, and in fbrty-fix degrees forty-five minutes of north latitude. This city confifts of two towns, diflinguiflied by the nimes High and Low Town. They are feparated from CKch other by a fteep clifF, which is a natural fortification to almoft two thirds of the Upper Town, at the fame time that it ferves for a ihelter to the Lower Town from the cold north-weft winds. The houfes are in general well built, of a durable greyifli fto.-^e, of which there is great plenty in the province. The fireets of the Higher Town are broad, but un- even, running upon a declivity from the fouth to the north. Thofe of the Lower Town are narrow, ftanding on a confined fpot of ground, which is commonly overflowed by the tide to the foot of the precipice. Here are feveral public buildings, which make a handfome appearance. The citadel, the re- fideoce of the governor, is cutioufly ere£)ed on the top of a precipice, whence there is a delightful profpe£t of the river downwards, and the country on both fides. The cuftom-houfe, which is a fplendid building, ftands in the Lower Town, and is the only houfe in that quarter which efcaped being damaged by our ihells, during the fiege in 1759. The general hofpiial ftands near a mile from the town on the north-weft fide, and is a ftately building. It is agreeably fituated on the fouth fide of the river Charles, which meanders under its walls. In this houfe is a convent of Auguftine nuns, who have lands appropriated for their maintainance. The ftrength of Quebec confifts chiefly in its lofty fituation. Ship-guns cannot have fufficient elevation to do it any confiderabte damage, and it is too ha- zardous an undertaking for bomb- ketches to attempt to deftroy it : becaufe they muft be expofed to a fu- rious fire from the feveral batteries ere£ied above each other down the water's edge 5 and any fliips brought againft it muft run up with the flood, fiand off and on until the tide of ebb, aud then retire. The ramparts, or line of fortification towarils the country, confift of a wall } there being no batteries here, ex- cept a few flank-fires ; nor is there any ditch round the town. The ground within the walls, however, is fo advantageous for ereding batteries, that this place may be rendered as impregnable on the land- iiJe, as it is naturally, by its fingular fituation, in- acceffible towards the river. Montreal is fituated on an ifland in the river of St. Lawrence, fixty leagues fouth-weft of Quebec. This ifland is about fourteen leagues in length, and live in breadth, and is full of fine plantations. The town is ftrongly fituated, and the fortifications have of late been much improved. The river of St. Law- rence is not navigable above this place, on account of fome catarafls, and the rapidity of the ftream. Trois Rivieres, a town fo named from its fituation on the confluence of three rivers, one of which is that of St. Lawrence, lies almoft midway between Quebec and Montreal. The town Is well built, and is a great mart for the trade with the Indians. The firft European that vifited Canada, was Se- baftian Cabot, who failed towards America, under a comraiflion from Henry the Seventh of England. This monarch not availing himfelf of the difcovcry, and the accounts of it fpreading over Europe, the French bfgan in a (hort time to form the projeA of eftablilh« ing a fettlement in the country. After the profecu- tion of this plan had continued for many years ex* tremely flow and languid, they at length accom- pliftied the defign, and feemed even to meditate the reduction of the Britifli Colonies in North America. Their preparations for that purpufe gave rife to the laft war, at the conclufion of which all the French dominions on the continent were ceded to the crown of Great Britain. The lower part of Canada, from the mouth of the river St. Lawrence, is wild, uncultivated, and on the fouth fide covered with inpeneirable woods, moftly of pine and dwarf fprtice, with ftupendous rocks and burren mountains, which form a moft difmal profpe^. The north part, for feveral leagues, is low, marfliy, and covered with ftrong reeds, and rufli-grafs. The firft fettlement, towards the frontiers of Nova Scotia, is St, Barnaby, on the fouth fhore, about thirty leagues within the g'llph. Here the fight is enter- tained with the profpe'il of an open, and feemingly fertile country, but it tcrmixed with feveral barren fpots. The fields prodi ce corn, flax, and vegetables of various kinds ; and the country is flocked with cattle. It is wcl! watered by innumerable rivers and rivulets, which empty themfelvcs into that of St. Lawrence, and are plentifully ftored with falmon, eels, and other fifli peculiar to thofe waters. The appearance of the northern part of the country is not fo promifing. The firft fettlement here is the King's Farms at Mai Bay, near the river of Saguenny, and haven of Tadourac. Where the lands have undergone cultivation, the foil is moderately fertile, but the country eaft and north-eaft of thefe farms re- mains in its original ftate, with lofty and fteep banks to the river. The lands on the north fide alfo are gradually high and fteep, after clearing the wood/ ifland of Anticofty, with trees and underwood on the fides of the declivities; and the appearance of the country is for the moft part the fame on both fides of the river, all the way upwards. From Mai Bay to Cape Tourmcnte, not lefs than thirty miles, the land is mountainous and barren. At the laft men- tioned plnce, however, the eye is agreeably furprifed with a pleafant fettlement, called St, Paul's ; from which parifti upwards, the country iv in general clean, 'ertile, and well improved, and likewife interfered by numerous Areams, that run into the river of St. L.i vrence. The lands along the river, from Montreal to Lake Franci?, are very woody, with a cold and fpungy foil J but from hence to Lake Ontario they become much better, producing good grafs, wiih a variety of excellent timber ict fliip-building, and little or no underwood. The •.ii",!"r, for about fix months, is extremely cold. The vaft river of St. Lawrence is early frozen over, to a gi'*i depth, The atmofphere is generally clear New Br: New Britain.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 627 clear and ferene, except during a fall of fnow, which feldom continues above twenty- four hours. The fummers, though fliort, arc plealant, unlefs in July and Augufl, when the heat is very great, and sccompanied with violent thunder-ftorms. Such, however, is the influence of this feafon on the fruits of the earth, that, as in other northern climates, the farmer reaps his harveft within four months after the feed is fown ; and the quiclcnefs of vegetation is fur- prifing. Canada produces various kinds of timber, fuch as red, white, and ever-green oalc, and white birch, fir, and pine-trees of different fpecies, maple, elder, cedar, bitter cherry, afli, jrhefnut, beech, hazel, blacic and white .horn, apple, pear, and plum-trees, with an infinite number of non-defcripts. Here is alfo great variety of flirubs, particularly the capillaire, which grows like fern, and is found in great plenty in the woods. The merchants of Quebec exported great quantities of its fyrups annu- ally to France. The Canadians have variety of ^:.\m, both fowl and quadrupeds, in the greateft plenty ; Rne poultry, vaft flights of wild pigeons, and an excellent breed of black cattle, fheep, fwinc, and horfes, with which the farms in general are plentifully {locked. The inhabitants have hitherto raifed no ftaple com- modity, to anfwer any confiderable demand.. Some tobacco has indeed been planted, which is ufed by the meaner fort of people; but, from not being pro- perly manufactured, it is fo infipid as to be unfit for fale. Their trade with the Indians produces all their returns for the European market ; and thofe confifl chiefly of the furs of beavers, foxes, and racoons, with deer-fkins, and aii the branches of the peltry. Fuis indeed are more plentiful towards the fouth, but not fo good a ilaple. Thofe articles, with corn and timber, which the inhabitants fend to the Weft India iflands, furnifh what is fufficient to render life eafy and agreeable in a plentiful country. The adminiflration of Canada is in the hands of a governor, who is appointed by the king, and has his refidence at Quebec. The conftitution of this pro- vince is different from that of all the other Britifh colonies, the inhabitants, agreeable to the articles of the peace in 1762, being permitted the free exercife of the Catholic religion, and to be governed by the laws of France. , , NEW BRITAIN. New Britain, Terra de Labrador, or Efkimaux, including Hudfon's Bay, is bounded on the fouth by the river and bay of St. Lawrence, on the weft by parts unknown, on the north by Hudfon's Streight, which feparates it from Greenland, and on the eafl by the Atlantic Ocean. It is fituate between fifty- nine and ninety-three degrees of veft longitude, and between fifty and fixty-four degrees of north latitude. The coaft from Hudfon's Sircight to iifty-feven de grccs is much incommoded in the beginning of fnm- mer by ice, which comes in great quantities from the No, 5a. feveral adjacent inlets ; but the weft of the coaft to the fouthward, from fifty-feven and fifty-two degrees, is free from this obftruilion. One of the chief fettlements here is Fort Nelfon, fituate in ninety-one degrees five minutes of weft lon- gitude, and in fifty-feven degrees twenty-five minutes of north latitude, on the weft fide of Hudfon's Bay, and the mouth of Nelfon River; in an ifland of which river ftands Fort Yoik, boih which are occu- pied by the Hudfon's B.iy Company ; rs is alfo Fort Churchill, fituated on the eaft fide of the Bay, The winter, which begins here about Michaelmas, and continues till May, is extreme!;' feverc; but there is feldom any fcarcity of provifions, as hares and partridges arc in great plenty. One year, when the French had eighty men in garrifon, they killed ninety thoufand partridges, and twenty-five thoufand hares. At the end of April, the gccfe, buftards, and ducks return thither in fuch numbers, tb •; they kill as many as they pleafe. They alfo take great num- bers of cariboua, or rein-deer, in March and April. At this feafon thofe animals come from the north fixty leagues along the river, and return thence in the months of July and Auguft. For catching them, the natives make hedges with branches of trees, in the openings of which they place fnares; and when the deer fwim the rivers in returning north, the people kill as many of them as they pleafe, with canoes and lances. In fummer, the employment of the people is fifh- ing ; at which time, with nets they take pike, trout, and carp, with a white fifli refembling a herring, and reckoned excellent food. They preferve thofe, as well as the flefh, by putting them in fnow, or freezing them; and they alfo keep geefe, ducks, and buftards in the fame manner. The country about Fort Nelfon is very low and marftiy, and abounds in woods of fmall trees. There generally come thither every year, to trade with the Englifh, near a thoufand Indian men, and fome women, in about fix hundred canoes. In per- forming this voyage, they arc obliged to go afhore every day, to hunt for provifions, which greatly re- tards their progrefs ; for their canoes are fo fmall, holding only two perfons, and a pack of a hundred beaver-fkins, that they can carry witli them only a very fmall quantity of provifions. The Indians weft of the Bay lead an erratic life, and fubfift entirelv upon game, feldom flaying longer than a fortnight in one place, and hardly miffing a day from the chace, even in the greateft florms of fnow. At night they return to their temporary huts, which are made of the branches of trees. The fmaller game got by traps, or fnatcs, is generally the employment of the women and chiUircn ; fucli as the martins, fquirrels, cats, ermins, Uc. While the elks, ft.igs, rein-deer, bears, tygers, wild beeves, wolves, foxes, beavers, otters, &c. atlord e.nployment to the men. When the latter kill any g.ime for food, they leave It on the fpot, and fend their wives next day to carry it home ; ftrowing the road from pla e to place with branchs of trees, or mofs, to fcrve as a direil'on. 7 R In 6x8 T H MODERN [America. In winter, betbre they go abroad, tlicy rul' them- felvca p'l over with bear's jrreafc, or that c beavers. Their covering is made of beaver's ikin, fr i which the fur has been taken ofF. They alfo wea ;i Kind of boots, or ftockings of beaver's fkins, with the fur in- wards, well rubbed with the oil of :hit aniiual, which never freezes, C er thofe is an oiled fkiii, laced about their feet, which not only keeps out the cold, but likewiie the vater, when there is no ice, nor fnow. In fummer they <;o naked, but always rub thcm- felves with oil or greafe, to prevent then being fcorched by the fun, or molcfied by the mufijuitoes, which would otherwife be very troublcfome. The foil and climate differ greatly in the feveral countries adjoining to the Pay. 'i lie Eaft Main, from Slude River to Hudfon's Streight, is the leaft known, there being no faflories eftabliflied here for trade, although the country abounds with the bcfl fable and black fox-fkins. Here the Nodway or £(ki- maux Indians live, who are almofl perpetually perfe- cuted by the more fouthern Indians. They are of a white complexion, not copper-coloured as the other Americans, and have beards growing up to their eyes. In winter they live in caves under the fnow ; they feed upon feals and dried fifh, and drink of the fame oil that they ufe for their lamps, with which they alfo anoint their bodies; The Hudfon's Bay Company has alfo a fettlement at Rupert Fort, fituatcd at the bottom of the Bay, fix hundred miles fouth-eaft of Fort Nelfon, and three hundred miles north-weft of Quebec. This place {lands in a much better climate than the other fettlements. There are fine woods of all kinds of large timber for fbipping and building ; with plenty of all forts of fruit and grain, as well as tame cattle, and fowl. In this country the fnow and froft breaks up in March, and does not begin again till No- vember. In this country, coronae and perhelia, commonly called halos, and mock- funs, appear frequently •bout tbtfun and moon. Round the former, they are feen once or twice a week, and about the latter once or tivice a month, for fouror five months in the win- ter. If the weather is clear, the perhelia are always accompanied with the corona:, of which there are fometimes five or fix, all concentric with the fun. Thofe rings are of various colours, and about forty or fifty degrees in diameter. The Aurora Borealis is al-Oa much oftcner feen here than in England ; feldom a night pafling in the winter without its appearance. The eaftcrn coafts of this country were dlfcovered by Sebaflian Cabot, in the end of the fifteenth cen- tury, and were afterwards vifited by Davis, and others, in their attempts to difcovcr a notili-mft pafiij^c to China; but captain Hudfon, who has ccmmunicated his name to the Bay and Streights, furroundid almoft the whole coafl, and went on ftiorc in fcveriil places. This adlive navipa'ir made four voyages to the north upon difcovcry. The firft of thofe was in 1G07, wh..n he fet fa 1 from Engliind in the month of May, and having proceeded fo I'ar as the latitude of eighty- one decree? thirty minutes, return.d thitticr in th« middle of September the fame year. In the year 1608, he attempted to difcover a north- caft pafl'age to China ; but coming into feventy-five ik'grecs thirty minutes north latitude, on the Qih of June, he found the fea fo much obdrufled with flioals of ice, that he returned home. The year fol- lowing, he repeated :he fame attempt, but was again p evented by ice on the coaft of Nova Zenibla. In 1610, Sir I'homas Smith, Sir Dudley Diggcs, Mr. Woftcnholme, and other adventurers, fitted out Mr Hudfon again, with inArui5)ions to attempt a paflage through Davis's Strelghti to the Pacific Ocean. He accordingly fet fail in April, and on the 4th of June arrived on the coaft of Greenland, whence pro- ceeding to the ifland of Defolation, he fteercd almoft due weft, till he difcovered a part of Terra de La- borador, in the latitude of fixty degrees, and foon after entered the Streights, which have fince been denominated from him. Then failing through fields of ice to the north-weft, for upwards of thn.c hun- dred leagues by computation, he came to a fmall ftreight two leagues over, and very deep water, through which he palTed betwtvn two promontories, one of which he named Cape Woftenholme, and the other Digges's Ifland, the latter lying in fixty- four degrees forty- four minutes of north latitude. Coming now into a fpacious fea, in which he failed a hundred leagues fouth, he imagined he bad foun'' i (.::fTliga into the Pacific Ocean, but afterwards pctieived, by the /hallow water, that he was embayed. The fea- fon being too far advanced for attempting to return before next fummer, he was now under the ntccflitjr of remaining all winter in this frozen country. Ha therefore brought the vefTel to an anchor in a finall creek, on the fouth-weft part of the bay, where be- ing in great diftrefs for want of provifions, he wal plentifully fupplied with wild fowl during the winter, and afterwards in the fpring with fifli. So intent was he in profecuting the objeil of hit voyage, that leaving his men to take and fait up fifh, and vi£lual the fliip, he fearched every creek and corner of the (hore in his floop, for a pallage to the South-fea, During his abfence, however, his men not only negleflcd to catch fifh, but entered into a confpiracy to run away with the vefTel, and leave him with the reft of their ofHcers behind ; and foon after his return, they carried this projedl into execu- tion ; putting a fmall ftock of provifions into a boat, they forced him and eight more on board, to en- counter the dangers of the ocean j in which it is probable they all periflied, having never afterwards been heard of. The reafon adigned by the marine-s for this a6l of barbarity was, that the captain had threatened to fet part of the crew on fliore, for not furnifliing the (hip with fifli, when it was in their power, Theconfpirators brought the fhip to Digges's Ifland, where, all their provifions being fpcnt, they went on (hore, and furnifljed theinfelves with a great quantity of wild fowl $ but Greyi| the captain of the muti- neers. Indian Nations,] GENERAL TH-AVELLER. 629 neers, with three or four more of the ringleaderii were cut in pieces by the natives. One of the crew, named Pricket, then took upon him the charge of the veflei, and brought her home on the 6th of Septem- ber, 1611 I thn crew being all fo weak, that they were not able to navigate the (hip without the af- fiftance of fume fifhermen, whom they met in their courfe ; and j^art of them were ai^uaily (larved :j ieath in the paflage. The year following, Sir Thomas Button purfued the Difcovery. Entering Hudfon's Bay, he fleered I -'ay from the Touth of it, which the former navi- ga ir had viflted, and failing fome hundred leagues to the weftward, arrived at a large continent, which he named New Wales j but unfortunately lofmg his velTel at thii place, he returned in a floop which he built in the country. The next adventurer that entered Hudfon'a Bay was captain James, who performed the voyage in 1631. He failed to the bottom of the Bay, and wintered on Charlton Ifland, in fifty-two degrees odd minutes of north latitude ; on which account the fouth part of the gulph is ufually called James's Bay. The hazards which he fuftair>ed in this voyage, from the ice, pre- vented any other navigator from profecuting difcovc- ries in thofe parts till 1667, when the Bay was again vifited by captain Gillam. He failed to a river near the bottom of it, in fifty-one degrees of north latitude. This he judged to be a proper place for iettling a f^flory, and called ii Prince Rupert's River, Upon his .'eturn, the pcrfons who had employed him, applied to king Charles II. for a patent to plant the country, which was obtained in 1670, the chief priprielur being prince Rupert. Since that time the company has carried on a fmall but profitable trade to thofe parts, with fome interruptions from the French in Canada, before this province was ceded to the Britifh crown, '1 liu firft Englifh governor fent thither was Mr. Betty, in 1670. He built a fort on Rupert river, to which he gave the name of Charles Fort; and foon after caufcd a faflory to be fettled at Port Nelfon, on the wtd fide of the bay ; but this place was in a fhort time betrayed to the French in Canada, by two of their countrymen. In the year 1682, however, the fame two traitors, again changing fides, rcftored the fort to the Englifh. under the command of the chevalier dc Troy?, who invaded our fcttlements, and made hinifcif mudcr of Hayes Ifland, Fort Ripcit, and Albany, in 16S6, though we were the', at peace with France, The Fnglifh, however, liWl remained in polTcnion of Port Nelfon, and, in 11)92, recovered their other fcttic- ment in the Bay. During the war, in the reign of queen Anne, the French again reduced nil our fcttle- ments except Albany j but ihcy were rellorcd to Great Britain by the peace of Utrecht, in 1713, iitui we have ever fincc been in poflllTion of them. With rclpedl to a north-weft pafTagCi which was the objca that led to the difcovery of HuJfon's bay, it fcems to be the opinion of navigators that it is ab- folutely impraflicable. Captain James obferves, that a tide conftantly fits into Hudfim's Strcighs from the eaftward; that the fea produces hardly anyfilhj that it is covered with ice, which, in his opinion, is ge- nerated by fhoals and bays. He thinks it probable, that this ice would have been broken, if there were the free ocean beyond it ; as he found this to be the cafe in pafling through the flrtights into the fea to the eallward. He likewifc obfc^ved that the ice always drives out to the eaftward at Hudfon's bay. Evca admitting that a north-wefl pafTage were praiSicable, he is of opinion that it could not anfwer any ufeful purpofe J becaufe the great quantity of ice and fhoals in thofe latitudes, make it unfit for a vcdll to try them with any valuable cargo. He farther obfervcsj that to the fouthward, a thoufand leagues may be fooner made than a hundred in thole feas, and with lefs hazard ; befides, that to the fouth, and about the Cape of Good Hope, there are fine opportunities of re- cruiting the fick, while in the north there is not the flighted refrcfhment to be obtained. He obferves, that even if thofe ftreights were free from ice, this circum- ftance would prove but of little advantage ; as the winds, which in Auguft and September are wcfler- ly and very boifterous, would caufe the veflel to be longer on her voyage than if fhe went the commaii courfe. Captain Middleton who made many voyages to Hudfon's bay, and failed thither twice with the viev^ of difcovering a north-weft pafTage, gives it alfo as his opinion, that there is no hope of fuccefs from any farther trial between Churchill and the latitude to which navigators have already proceeded ; and that Two years afterwards the chief faflory of the I northward of this latitude, the pad'age muft be im- Englifh was removed to Chickwam river, and called j praftable on account of ice, of which he imagines Albany ; for the defence of which a fort was eteftcd ' the fea cannot be clear one week in a year, and many on the fouth- weft part of the b.iy. It was intended alfo to have fixed a colony on Charlton Ifland, and to have built warehoufes there for their furs; but the place being found incommodious, this projc£t was abandoned. The company was now in polTeflion of five fcttle- ments, \\t, thiifi- nn Albany river, Unyca Ifland, Rupert (jytf, P((ff Nfl/'ifl, »nd New Sever//, heiwefli Port Nel/b/1 ilt^ hlhtni/i and their trade was In a flouriniilig cnndiliiiii, wiHlt ill* I'iciich, Hiipreheiiflve ihitl (III ^lijillf?) w< hid draw nil the upland Indiana lu ihi \Uj/, IVIH » i(«lD«|lii)»nl iif troops from Cnnidi, years, as he apprehends, not >lear at all. Of thh INDIAN NATIONS im NORIH AMERICA, THE interior and weflem parts cf the continent of North America are occupied by the Indians, the original inhabitants of the country, who are di- vided info an infinite numbe/ of different tribes or na- linns ; fuch as the Chaiftaws, Creeks, Chcrokoes, Iroquois, Hurons, Algonquins, (!litio!s, &c. Ex- cept t 630 H MODERN America.] cept the Eflclmaux, they are generally fimilir in (Iict perfoni. They are tall and Arait in their limbs, beyond the proportion of mod nations. Their bodies are ftrong, but rather httcd to endure much hard- ship, than to continue long at any feivile work, by which they arc foon exhauflcd. I'heir bodies and headi arc flattifli, the cfFcift of art i their features are regular, but their countenances fierce. Their hair is long, black, lank, and as ftrong as that of a horfe. They deprive thcmrelves of their beards by pulling them when they begin to appear. The colour of their (kin is a reddifh brown, rendered deeper by the con- flant nfe of bear s fat and paint. When the Europeans fi'ft arrived in America, they found tb- Indians i ite 1 akcd, except thofc parts which I ' •! :ht (• ...icuiti ated people ufually con ceal, S' I— *'i-j* . ne, however, they generally ufe a coarfe b.. , ■!•» w!;;t: they buy of the neighbouring planters. Their huts ^n cabbin) .. -^ade of flakes of wood driven into the ground, and covered with branches of trees or reeds. They lie on the floor either on mats or the fkins of wild beafts. Their diflies are of timber, but their fpoons are made of the fkulls of wild oxen, and their knives of flint. A kcttli; and a large plate conflitutc alniofl the whole utenfils of the family. Their diet confllls chiefly in what they procure by hunting; and fagamitc, or pottage, is likewife one of their moft common kinds of food. The moft ho- nourable furniture amongft them is the fcalps of their enemies ; with thofe they ornament their huts, which are edeemed in proportion to the number of this fort of fpoils. The only occupation of the men is hunting and war, agriculture being left to the women. In eating and drinking, they obferve neither dccenry nor bounds. Before they were acquainted with the Europeans they had no fpirituous liquors ; but thofe are now the principal inducement to all their treaties with us, and the greater part of their time is fpent in a ftate of in- toxication, as often as it is in their pow'.-r to afford the means. They arc extremely grave in their deportment upon any ferious occafion ; obfervant of thofe in company, and refpeftful to the old. There is no people among whom the laws of hofpitalily arc more facrcd ; their houfes, their provifion, even their young women, are not enough to oblige a gueft. To thofc of their own nation they are likewife very humane and beneficent ; but to the enemies of his country, or thofe who have privately ofFended, the American is implacable. No length of time is fuificient to extingiiifh his refent- ment ; L Jt he conceals his paflion till a convenient opportunity occurs j when he exercifes the moft (hocking barbarities on the obnoxious pcrfon, even fo the eating of his flcfh. Liberty, in its full extent, is their darling pnlTion, and their education is direflcd in fuch a m.iiiner as to cherifh this difpofition to the utmofl. Children are never, upon any account, chaftifed with b.ows, and they are fcldom even reprinjandcd. Kcafon, tlicy fay, will guide their children when they come to the ufe of it, and before that time their faults cannot be very great ; but blows might damp their free and martial Ipirit, by the habit of a flavifh motive to aiHion, When grown up, they experience nothing like com- mand, dependence, or fubordination i even flrong perfuafion is indufliioufly with-hcid by thofe who have influence among them. On the fame principle, they know no punifhment but death ; and this capital retribution, which they fumetimei inflidl, it rather the confequence of a fort of war declared againd a public enemy, than an a£l of judicial power executed on a citizen. This free difpofition is general; and, though fome tribes arc found with a head whom we call a king, his power ii rather perfuafive than coercive, and he is reverenced as a father, more than feared as a monarch. He has no guards, no prifons, no officers of juflice. The other forms of government, which may beconfidercd as aridocratical, and are mod common in North Ameri- ca, have no greater power. Among fome tribes there is a kind of nobility, who, when they come to yearu of maturity, are entitled to a place and vote in the councils of their nation. But amongd the Five Nations, or Iroquois, the mod eminent commonwealth in North America, and in fome other nations, the only qualifications abfoluteiy neccfTary for their head-men, arc age, experience, and ability. For the mol^ part, however, there is in every tribe fome particular d' mily, which is the object of peculiar refpeA, Their great council is compofed of thofe heads of tribes and families, with fuch others whofe capacities have raifed them to the fame degree of conflderation. They aiTemble in a houfe, which they have in each of their towns for the purpofe, upon every folemn oc- cafion, Thofe councils are open to the public, and here all fuch matters concerning the date are propofed, at have already been digeded in the fecret councils, at which none but the head-men adid. The chiefs feldoni fpeak much in public aflTemblies, thinking fuch a pra<£iice beneath their dignity ; but on th.-fe occafions, they employ a perfon, who is called their orator. The addrefs of this delegate confids muHly in giving an artful turn to afl^airs, and in exprclTing their thought in a bold figurative manner, accompa- nied with fuitable aiSlion. When any bufinefs of confequence is tranra(5lcd, they appoint a fead upon the occafion, of which al- mod the whole nation partakes. At thofe feads, if they do not confume all the vifluals, the remainder is thrown into the fircj for they regard this clement as facred, and in all probability thofe feafts were ancient- ly facrifices. Before the entertainment is ready, the principal pcrfon begins a fong, the fubjedt of which is the fa- bulous or real hidory of their nation, any remark- able events that have happened) and the reft fing in rotation ; the company meanwhile all joining in a dance to the mufic. No folemnity or public bufinefs is conduiSed without an entertainment of this kind. To afTift their memory, they have belts of fmall diells, or beads, of difi'erent colours, each reprc- fenting a particular objeft, which is marked by their colour Irica.] I be very martial aiHion. |(c com- ftrong Iho have Indian Nations.] GENERAL tRAVELLEft. 631 colour and arrangement. At the conclufion of every fubjcfl ou which they dircourfe, when they treat with a foreign (late, they deliver one of ihore belts j for if this ceremony fliould be omitted, all that they have faid pafles for nothing, Thofe belts are care- fully depofited in each town, as the public records of the nation | and to them they occafionally have re courfe, when any public conted happens with a neighbouring tribe. Of late, as the material) of which thofe belts are made, have become fcarce, they often give fome (kin in place of the wampum (the name of the beada) and receive in return prefents of a more v.iluable return from our commiflioners ( for they never confider a treaty as of any weight, unlefs tvery article in it be rati(ied by fuch a grati(ication, The calumet, or pipe of peace, is alfo an inftru- ment of great importance in public tranfaflions. It it intended (or fmoalting tobacco, or fome bark, leaf, or herb, when they enter into an alliance, or on any other folemn occafion } this ceremony being confider- cd by them as equivalent to the moft facred oath. When they treat of war, the pipe and all its orna- ments are ufually red, or fometimes red only on one fide, The fize and decorations of the calumet are for the moft part proportioned to the quality of the per- fons to whom they are prefented, and to the impor- tance of the occafion. This inftrument is regarded by the Indians with the moft fuperflitioui veneration. They confider it as the arbiter of life and death, and the god of peace and war. One who carries it may venture among his enemies in the hotieft engagement; for they will immediately lay down their arms before the facred pipe. The calumet of peace is different from that of war. They make ufe of the former to feal their alliances and treaties, to travel with fafety, and to receive ftrangersj but of the latter, to proclaim war. It confifts of a red ftonc, like marble, formed into a cavity tefembling the head of a tobacco pipe, and fixed to a hollow reed. They adorn it with fea- thers of various colours, and name it the calumet of the fun, to which luminary they prefent it, in expec- tation of thereby obtaining a change of weather as often as they defite. They dare not wa(h themfelves in rivers in the beginning of fummer, nor tafte of the new fruits, without performing the ceremony, which is called the dance of the .alumet. This dance is performed in the winter time in their cabins, and in fummer in the open fields. For this purpofe they choofe a fpot among trees to (hade them from the heat of the fun, and lay in the middle a large mat, as a carpet, fetting upon it the monitor, or god, of the chief of the company. On the right hand of thii image they place the calumet, as their great deity. ..i^iSting around it a kind of trophy with their arms. Things being thus difpofed, and the hour of dancing come, thofe who are to fing take the mod honourable feats under the (hade of the trees. The company is then ranged round, every one, be- fore he fits down, Paluting the monicor, which is done by blowing upon it the fmoak of their tobacco. Each perfon next receives the calumet in rotation, and holding it with boih hands, dances to the cadence of Ko 52. the vocal muflc, which is accompanied with the beat' ing of a fort of drum. During this exercife, he givei a fignal to one of their warriors^ who takea a bow^ arrow, and axe, from the trophies already meniionetl, and fights him { the former defending himi'elf with the calumet only, and both of them dancing all tht while. This mock engaj^ement being over, he who holds the calumet makei a fpeech, in which he crives an account of the battles he has fought, and th* ^' '!• loners he hat taken, and then receives a cloa, it fome other prefent, from the chief of the b^: . '-Je then refigns the calumet to another, who 'ing aAed a fimilar part, deliveri it to a third, who afterwards gives it to his neighbour, till at lafl the inftrument returns to the perfon that began the cere* mony, who prefents it to the nation invited to the feaft, as a mark of their frienddiip, and a confirma* tion of their alliance, when this is the occafion of the entertainment. Though the Indian women generally bear the la* borious part of domeftic oeconomy, their condition is far from b' ' ' fo (Iavi(h as it appears. On the con« trary, ih ;car efpe^l is paid by the men to the female 'x^. 1 women even hold their councils, and ha' ;heir t .; - in all deliberations which concera the '}*':% ^olfgumy is praflifed by fome nations, but is .. : (en*;. I. In moft, they content themfelves wit!' on: .' fe 1, but a divorce is admitted in cafe of i.d' tery. No nation of the Americans is without A r ' n riage, in which there are many ceremo« niei. i tilt principal of which it, the bride's prtfenting the bridegroom with a plate of their corn. The women, though before incontinent, are re* markable for chaftity after marriage ; but they are not prolific, feldom producing more than two or three children. No mar 7mong them is held in great elleem, un« til he has ircreafed the ftrength of his country »itb a captive, o adorned his hut with a fcalp of one of hit enemies. When ihe council refolves upon war, they do not immediately d'xlare what nation they are determinetl to attack, that the enemy may not be prepared. The war-kettle howe\'er is fet on the fire ( the war fongi and dances commence ; the tomohawk, painted red, is fent to all the villages of the nation, and its allieSf with a belt of wampum. The melTenger throws the tomohawk on the ground, which is taken up by the moft expert warrior among the people to whom it it fent, if they choofe to join in the war ; but if not, it is returned, with a belt of wampum fuitable to the occafion. The men and women then join in hideous exclamations, lamenting thofe whom they have loft either in war or by natural death, and demanding their placet to be fupplied from their enemies, thus ftimu- lating the young men to adlion in the caufe of their country. When by thofe means the fury of the nation is raifed to the highcft pitch, the war-captain prepares the feaft, which confifts of dog's flefh. All that par- take oF this entertainment receive little billets, which are confidercd as engagements to be faithful to each 7 S other, .il 1 IM 632 THE MODERN [Ambrica. other, ind obedient to their commander. None are I that dreadful weapon, the fcjiping knife, hangi bv a forced to the war 1 but when any perfon hai accepted I ftiing from their necic, t billet, it is death to recede. All the wiirriuri in Their principal motives for WAr arr, either the the alTembly have their facea blackened with char> 1 glory of victory, or the bcucltt iif the llitves which it coal, intermixed with ftrcaki of vermillioni and ihcir may enable them to add to du'ir n.ili(iM ; and ihejr hair it pi>iied up with feathers of variuui kiiidi, The chief begini the war-fong, which having con> tinued fome time, he breaki forth with abrupt voci fcration into a fort of prayer, invoking the god of fcldom take any pains to give iluir wars even the colour of julticc, It is not uncuiiirnoii for the young men to make fcafti of dug's- flilh, and dances, iu the midfl of profound peace ; and wantonly fall upoa war, whom they call Areflconi, to be favourable to fnme neighbouring nation, or rurprlfc the J- hunters, their ctiterprice, and to pour deDruAinn upon the whom they fcalp, or liring home as priloneri, I'he tner.y. All the warriors join him in his prayer with fliouts and exclamations. The captain then renewn bis fong, (Irikes the tomokawk againd the Hakes of hit cottage, and begins the war-dance, accompanied with the (bouts of the whole atTcmbly. The day appointed for their felting out on the ex- pedition being arrived, they take leave of their friends, and exchange their cloatbs, or whatever moveables they have, in token of mutual friendlhip t after which they proceed from the town, their wives and female Fklations w.iJking before, and attending them to fome difiance. The warriors march all drelt in their finefl appatcl, and mod fhowy ornaments, without any or* der. The chief walks flowly before them, finging the war-fong, while the red obferve the mod pro- found lilence. When they come up to their women, they deliver them all their finery, and putting on their word doaths, proceed on their expedition. Every nation has its peculiar enfign or ftandard, which ii generally fome bead, bird, or fifh. Thofe among the Five Nations are the bear, otter, wolf, tortoife, and eagle ) and by thefe names the tribe> are ufually didinguifhed. They have the figures of thofe animals pricked and painted on feveral parts of their bodies ; and when they m.irch through the woods, they commonly, at every encampment, cut the reprefentation of their enfign on trees, efpecially after a fuccefsful campaign ; marking at the fame time the number of fcalps, or prifoners they have taken. Their military dref.; is extremely fingular. They cut off, or pull out, all their hair, except a fpot stbout the breadth of two Englifh crown-pieces, near the top of their heads, and entirely dedroy their eyebrows. The lock left upon their heads is di- vided into feveral parcels, each of which is difFened, and adorned with wampura beads, and feathers of various kinds, the whole being twided into a form much refembling the modern pcmpoon. Their heads are painted red down to the eye-brows, and fp.inkled over with white down. The gridles of their ears are fplit almod quif; round, and didended with wires or fplintert, fo as to meet, and tie together on the nape of the neck. Thefe are alfo hung with orna- ments, and generally bear the reprefentation of fome bird, or bead. Their iiofei are likewiCc bored, rnd hung with trinkets of beads ; and their fares painted with various colours, fo as to make an awful appearance. Their breads are adorned with a gorget, or medal of brafs, copper, or fome other metal ; and 6 (I'd men overlook ihol'c afis of hodility, as tendiii); 10 keep up the ni.iriial r^iirit uf ihrir p':ople, and inuring them to harJihip. The chief qualities in an Indian war are vijniance and attention, to give and avoid a furprice ) with patience and drength, to endure the fatigues which attend it. Fur thofe nations being at an immcnfe didance from each other, and fcparated by a va(k dcfart frontier, of almod boumllcfs foreds, thefe mud be traverfed before they meet with their enemy. They never fight in the open field, but upon fome very ex- traordinary occafions ; delpiflng this method as un- worthy of an able warrior, and as an affair which i« not governed by prudence fo much as by fortune. What chiefly affids in diliovering the enemy, is their tracks, and the fmoak of their (ires, which they fmcll at a didance almod incredible But as the nationi that are attacked have the fame kiiowlege, their grwt addrefs is to baffle each other in thofe points. Oa their expeditions, therefore, they i^enerally light no (ire to warm thcmfelves, or prepare their vidluals, but fubfid on meal, mixed with water ; lie clofe to the ground all day, and march only in the night. As they ufually march in files, he that clolies the rear diligently covers with leaves his own tracks, anti thofe of all that preceded him, If any dream occurs in their route, they march into it a confiderable way, to foil their purfuers. When they halt to red and re- frefh themfelves, fcouts are fent out on all fides to reconnoitre the country, and beat upon every place where they fufpe£l an e^iemy may lie hid. In thii manner they often enter a village, when the drcnglh of the nation is employed in hunting ; where they maflacrc all the old men, women, and children, and make as many prifoners as they can manage. When they difcover the enemy, their way is to throw themfelves flat on their faces amongd the withered leaves. They generally let a part pais un- moleded, and raifing themfelves a little, take aim, being excellent markfmen. Then fetting up a moft tremendous (hour, which they call the war-cry, they pour a dorm of mufkct balls upon the enemy : for thofe nations which have commerce with the Euro- peans, have long fince l.iid afide the ufc of bows and arrows. The party attacked returns the fame cry j and every man immediately covers himfcif behind a tree, from which they continue the engagement. After fighting in this manner foinc time, the party which has (he advantage, rudies out of its cover, bearing in their hands fmall a. ii fi.i'i decided, and the conquerun faliate ' their tavaj^e tury with the mod (hocking infulti and barbari'iei to the dca-^. The fate of their prifunert ii dreadful. During the greater part of their journey homewardi, they fufFcr no injury | but when arrived in the territoriei of ilic ciin(|iierln^ Date, or thufe of its alliet, the people fiiim every villi, ',<: come out to meet them, and think that I'ley (how atiachnient to their friends by the inhuman treatment of the unhappy prifuneri, whom they bruife and wound in a (hocking manner. The conquerors manage their march fo at not to erter their to*n till towards the evening. Next morning, at day-break, they drefs their prifoners in new clo.iths, adoin their heads with feathers, paint them with various colours, and put into their hands • white flaft', talTelcd round with the tails of deer. The commander of the expedition then gives as many yells as he has taken fcalps, or prifoners, and all the in- habitants of the place alTemble at the water-fide, if fituated near a river. As fonn as the warriors ap- pear, four or five of their young men, well clothed, gt' into a canoe, if they come by water, or other- wife maich by land ; the two foremuft carrying each a calumcr, and finging all the while, advance to- W.irds thi; prifoners, whom they lead in triumph to the village. 'I he war captain then waits upon the hejd men, and in a low voice delivers an account of the expedition •, which having done, the public ora- tor relates she whole to the people. Before they re. fign thcnifclves to the joy which the viftory occa- fions, they lament the friends whom they have loft. TKe parties moft nearly concerned, arc apparently affliiacd with deep forrow ; but, as if difciplined in their grief, upon the figiial of rejoicing, in a moment all teurs are wiped from their eyes, and they break forth into marks of the moft extravagant joy. Mean while the fate of the prifoncr remains unde- cided, until the old men meet. It is ufual to offer a (lave to each houfe that has loft a friend. The perfon who has taken the captive attends him to the door of the cottage to which he is delivered, and with him gives a belt of wampum, to (how that he has fulfilled the purpofe of the expedition, in fupplying the lofs of a citizen. The people belonging to the family take a view of the prefent which is made to them, and according to caprice, the rcfentment for the lofs they have fuftaincd, or their natural barbarity, either receive him into the houfe, or fentcnce him to death. If the Utter be his fate, they throw away the belt with indignation, after which it is beyond the power of any perfon to Uve him. The whole tribe is then affembled, a fcafFulJ is erciScd, to which they tie the piifoiicr, who opens his ileath-fong, and prepares for the cnfuiii j; fccne of cruelty with aftoiiifhinj; forti - tiiJe. The tormentors laying hold of the devoted vielim, bei;iii to cxccifc their brutal fury on the ex- tremities of his body, .ind gradually approach the t{unk. One plucks out his nails by the roots } an- other takes a finger or a toe in his mouth, and teart ofF the Oe(h with his teeth i a thiid ihrufti the mangled parti into the hole of a pipe made icd hot, which he fmokci like tobacco. They next pound his tuei and fingeri between two ftoncsi they nuke circular in« ciflons round his joints, and large gafhcs in the flcfhy parti of hit limbs, which they afterwards fear with red-hot irons. Then pulling ofT the fle(h, bit by bit, they devour it with great greedinefi, befmearing their faces at the fame time with the blood, in a frenzy of enthuflafm. They next proceed to twift the bare nerves and tendons about an iron, tearing and fnap- ping them, while others are employed in pulling and extending the limbs, in every way that crni.increafe the torment. This fcene of hoirur often continue* five or fix hours. They then frequently unbind him, to give a paufe to their fury, and to refrefh the flrength of the fufTerer. After this interval he ii again faftened to the frame, and they renew their cruelty. They ftick him all over with fmall matches of wood, that eafily take fire, but burn (lowly ; at the fame time running (harp reeds into every part of his body. They drag out his teeth with pincheri, and thruft out his eyes. After having fo mangled the body that it is all but one wound, after having multi- ated the face in fuch a manner as to carry nothing human in it, and after having peeled the (kin from the head, and thrown red hot coals, or boiling water on the (kull, they once more unbind the wretch, who ftaggering with pain and weaknefs,and affaulted on every fiJc with clubs and (loncs, runs hither and thither in all the anguifh of torture, until one of the chiefs, either out of compadion, or weary of cruelty, puts an end to his life with a club or dagger. The body is then put into the kettle to be prepared for a favaee feaft, with which this (hocking tragedy concludes. If none of the bye-ftanders are inclined tu lengthen out the torments of the prifoners, he is either (hot to death with arrows, or indofed in dry bark, to which they fet fire. On the evening fucceeding the fcene, they run from hut to hut, flrikihg with fmall twigs the walls, the roof, and the furniture, to prevent his fpirit from remaining within their dwell- lings, to take vengeance of their cruelty. The prifoners who have the good fortune to pleafe thofe to whom they are offered, are immediately adopted in the family, and fulFer no other reftraint than that of not being permitted to return to. their own country. Rut if they have been unfuccefsful againft their ene- mies, things wear a quite difFcrent face. They then enter the village without ceremony by day, with grief and melancholy in their countenances, keeping a profound filencc ; or if they have fuftaincd any lofs, they enter in the evening, founding the death whoop, and naming thofe they have loft, either by ficknefa or the enemy. The village being aflembled, they fit down with their heads covered, and all weep to- gether, without uttering a word for a confiderable time. When this filcnce is over, they lament aloud for their companions, and every one wear* the »p- pcaiancc of mourning during fcveral day*. The 6i4 T H B M E N [America. Tht lofi of injr perron, whcihtr hj ntiard death or war, ii UnMnnd bf the whole town to which he belong!. On fuch an occaTion, no bufineri ii tranfaAed, however prelBng, till jtll the pioui cere* moniei due to the dead are pcrforfflcd. 7'he body ii vaflicd, anointed, and painted. Then the women laik'enc the lofi with hideoua howlingi, intermixed with (ongi, which celebrate the great aAioni of the decafad, and hit anceftora. The men mourn in a lei'a a.':tr»vagant manner. The whole village ii prefent at the interment, and th« corpfe ii habited in their rood rumptuou* ornamenti. Clofe to the buJy ul the defunfk are placed hit bowi and arrowi, witli what- ivcrhe valued mod in uiilife, and a quantity of pro- vifion for hia fubfiftence on the journey which he ii fuppofed to take, Thii fulemnily, lilcu every other, ii attended with feaAing. 7'he funeral being ritded, the re- lationi of the deceafcd confine ih'mlilvcs to their liuta for a confiderable time, to inJiil^'c ilu-ir grief. After an interval of Tome weeks ihcy viiit tlie grave, rep rat thtir forrow, new clothe die remnini of the body, and aA over again all the fulcmiiiiiei of the funeral. Among the varioui tokens uf their regard for their deceafcd friendi, the mofl retnarkable is what they call the feaft of the dead, or the feiA of fouli. Th« day for thii ceremony ii appointed in the council of their chiefs, who give orders for every thing which nay enable them lo celebrate it with pomp and mag nificence} and the neighbouring nations are invited to partake of the entertainment. At this time, all who have died fince the preceding feaft of the kind, arc taken out of their graves. Even thofe who have been interred at the greatefl didancefrom the villages, are diligently fought for, and condudted to this ren> dezvous uf the dead, which exhibits a fccnc of hor- ror beyond the power of defcription. When the fead is concluded, the bodies are drefled in the fined (kins which can be procured, and after being expofed fur fome time in this pomp, are again committed to the earth with great (olemnity, which is fucceeded by fsneral game*. The Americans hold the exidence of a fupremc Being, eternal and incorruptible : but fatisfied with acknowledging this do£)rine, which is traditionary among them, they pay him no fort of wordiip. Some nations pay a religiou* homage to the fun and moon ; and mod of them believe in invifible beings and demons, who they fuppofe intermeddle in human affairs, and to whom they make an oblation of their fird fruits. They univerfally hold that the foul is inmortal ; but that the happinefi which it enjoys in the next world ia of the fenfual kind. In this aflurance, they meet death with the greated Indifference and compofure. They are great obfervers of omens and dreams, and eager priers into futurity ; abounding in diviners, augurs, and magicians, upon whom they rely much in all their affairs, and who alfo difcharge the ofEces of pried and phyfician. Almod every difeafe is here treated in the fame manner. The practice mod univerfal is to inclofc the patient in a narrow hut, in the midd of wiiioh is a done red hot. On this they f^uinkle water, till he is well fuaked with the warm deams, when they hurry from the bagnio, und plunge him fuddenly into the next river. This pruccfs is rvpcuicd is often aa they judge neceffiiy, and extraordinary cures are fomclimca performed by it | but it frctjuendy happens likcwifr, th«t the pel Ton dies under the upeiaiiuu. I'hey have alfu the ufe of fome Ijircificf, faid lo be of great efficaiy, but the power of which they chiefly alcribe to the magical ceremonies that accom- pany their adminiOratiuii. Controvcrfies among the Indians are few, and quickly decided. When any criminal matter is fu fligiant as to become a nalioiul concern, it is brought under the jurifdi£tion of the great council ( but in ordinary cafes, the crime is either revenged or com- prumifcd by the parties concerned. If a murder be eommiiied, the family which has lod a relation pre> pares to retaliate on ihnt of the offender. They often kill the murderer i and when this happens, the kin- dred of the lad perfon flain look upon ihenifclves la be as much injured, and to have the fame right to vengeance as the other party. In general, however* the offender abfents himfcif | the friends fend com- pliments of condolence to thofe of the perfon that hu been murdered. The head of the family at length appears, with a number of prefents, the delivery cf which he accompanies with a formal fpeech. The whole ends, as ufual, in mutual feadings, foogs, and dances. If the murder is committed by one of the fame fa- mily or cabin, that cabin has the full right of judg- ment within itfelf, cither to punidt the guilty with death, or to pardon him, or to oblige him to give fome recompenfe to the wife or children of the ilain. Indances of fuch a crime, however, very feldom hap- pen i for their attachment to thnfe of the fame fa- mily is remarkably drong, and is faid to produce fuch frienddiips as may vie wiih the mod celebrated in fa- bulous antiquity. Such, in general, are the manners and cudoms of the Indian nations i but every tribe baa fomeihing peculiar to itfelf. Among the Huroni and Naichcs the dignity of the chief is hereditary, and the right of fucceffion in the female line. When this happens to be extiniE), the mod refpe£lable matron of the tribe makes choice of whom die pleafes to fucceed. The Cherokees are governed by feveral fachems or chieft, cle£led by the different villages ; at are alfo the Creeks and Chadlaws. The two latter punifh adultery in a woman by cutting off her hair, which they will not fuffer to grow till the corn is ripe the next feafon ; but the Illinois, for the fame crime, cut od' the women's nofes and ears. The Indians on the lakes are formed into a fort of empire : and the emperor is defied from the eldell tribe, which is that of the Ottowawas. He has the greated authority of any chief that has appeared oil the continent flnce our acquaintance with it, A few years ago, the perfon who held this rank formed a defign of uniting all the Indian nations under his fo- vereignty ; but he mifcarried In the attempt, Jn all the vad extent of Canada, there are only three ( \ '^r ////7 ////,■/ "/'■,f/<•/^/^yfrf//<^a///r ,',, //f//,[ American Islands.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 635 % three radical tongues, viz, the Sioux, Algonquin, and Huron. With refpe£l to the firft, it ii impof- fible to fay how far it extends ; nor are we much acquainted with any of the nations that fpealc it. By means of the Algonquin and Huron languages, a per- fon may travel a thoufand .ind five hundred leagues in this country without an interpreter. For though he may vifit above a hundred different nations, each of which has a particular diale£), he can hold con- verfation with them all. It is obfervable, that the three radical languages which have been mentioned, have different properties, 'i he Sioux, fo far as the Europeans are acquainted with it, is rather a hiffing found than a di(lin£l arti- culation. The Huron tongue is diftinguifhed for its energy, pathos, and elevation ; but is exceeded by that of the Algonquin in fmoothnefs and elegance. Few or none of the Indian nations contain above fix thoufand people, many not two thoufand. A tra- veller may wander over thoufands of miles on banks of the fined lakes and rivers in the world, without meeting with any human creature ; and thofe he does meet are generally fo ftupid, fo barbarous, and fo averfe to fociety, that they hardly merit that deno- mination. The AMERICAN ISLANDS. NEWFOUNDLAND. BEGINNING our furvey at the north, the firfl American ifland that attracts our attention is Newfoundland, fituated in the Atlantic ocean, be- tween 51 and 58 degrees of north latitude. It lies in the mouth of the Bay of St. Lawrence, and is fepa- rated from New Britain, or Efkimaux, by the narrow fireight of Belleifle. It is of a triangular form, about three hundred and fifty miles from north to fouth, and its greateft breadth two hundred. In winter, the climate here is much colder than ir England, and the ground is covered with fnow to a great depth for almofl half the year ; but the fum- mers are proportionably hotter. It is a mountainous country, producing great quantities of pine and fir trees, but very little corn or grafs. Its importance, however, is chiefly owing to the cod-fifhery on the fand-banks along the coafV, where matl'y hundred vef- fels are loaded every feafon with this commodity. The principal bank lies about twenty leagues from Cape Riche, or Cape Race, the moft fouthern pro- montory of the ifland, about a hundred leagues in length, ami twenty-five in breadth. The fifhing- fea- fon begins in March, and continues till near the end of September, The ifland has feveral commodious harbours, to which the fhips refort for curing the fifli. The chitf towns are thofc of St. John, Bonavifta, and Placcntia ; the firft of which is the capital. It flands ill the fouth-cafl part of the ifland, in 47 de- grees of north latitude. Exclufivc of the garrifons in thofc towns, and in a few other forts, there are not above four or five hundred families remain on the No. 53. ifland in winter ; but in the fifliing- feafon, the num- ber of pcrfons may be a thoufand. Few Indians re- fide here, though many come over the Streights of Belleifle from New Britain to hunt. This country was firfl difcovered by the Englifh in the reign of Henry VII, and fome voyages were mads thither in the fucceeding reigns. During feveral years the Portuguefe and French traded thither for furs, and fifhed on the coafl, but were afterwards ex])elled by the Englifh. King Charles II. however, permitted the French to fettle at Placentia, and they took the towi' of St. John in the reign of Queen Anne ; but by the peace of Utrecht the whole ifland was fur- rendered to the Britifh crown. The ifland affords the inhabitants plenty of venifon, fifli, and fowl ; but they receive moft of their provifion, as well as cloaths and furniture, from England, at the return of the fhipping. The inhabitants of this ifland, till lately, had no clergyman among them ; but now th« fociety for thr propagation of the Gofpel fend thither a mifTionar'.. who refides chiefly at Bonavifta, but occafionally vi- fits the other fettlements. Between Newfoundland and the mouth of the river St. Lawrence, lies the ifland of Anticofte, which is fubje£l to Britain, but is a barren country, and con- tains no fettlernent. CAPE BRETON. Cape Breton is fituate in the gulph of St, Law- rence, between 61 and 62 degrees of weft longitude, and between 45 and 47 degrees of north latitude. It is about a hundred miles in length, and fifty in breadth, a barren country, producing little corn or grafs, but a great deal of wood. In winter the cli- mate is exceffive cold, and it is fubje£t to great fogs in fummer } but here are feveral good harbours, and an excellent fifhery on the coaft. This ifland, on which ftood the fort of Louiftiourg, was taken from the French in 1745, but reftored by the treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle. It was, however, retaken by the Britifli forces in 1758, and entirely relinquifhed by its former mafters at the fubfequent peace. In thofe parts lies likewife the ifland of St, John } but it is a place of little confideration. Thk BERMUDA loLANDS. The Bermuda Iflands are fituated in the Atlantici ocean, in 5 degrees 10 minutes of weft longitude, and 32 degrees 30 minutes of north latitude They are a clufter of very fmall iflands, lying in a femi- circular form, and containing about twenty thoufand acres of ground, almoft entirely furrounded with rocks, which render them inacceflible to ftrangers. No part of the world enjoys a purer air, or a more temperate climate, the heat being moderated by con- ftant fea-breezes, fo that the whole year refemblcs the end of a fine May in England. They abound in beef, mutton, poultry, and garden-ftuff of all kinds j the fea likewife fupplying them with variety of cxce;. 7 T Itnt :t 6^6 'THE MO lent iifli. The employment of the natives is the making joiners work, and hats of palmeto leaves, as well as building of floops. They alfo raifc corn, which, with other provifions, they export. Here is one capital town, called St. George, after (he name of the principal ifland, in which it (lands. It is one of the fined towns in our plantations, con- taining above a thoufand houfes, built of a beautiful white free-done, peculiar to thofe idands. It is, be- fides, very flrong both by nature and art. The har- bour is inacceflible to flrangers, without the alTiftance of pilots, and is at all times extremely dangerous. It is alfo defended by feven forts, mounting I'cventy great guns, all which could be brought to bear upon any vclTcl that (liould attempt to force an entrance. Thcfe iflands now conftitute a dlrtiniSl royal govern- ment ; the governor and council being appointed by the crown, and the alTembly chofen by the people. Thefe iflands were difcovered by John Bermuda, or Bermudcz, a Spaniard, in 1522. In the year 1609, Sir George Summers being caft away upon them, found them defcrted, and they have fince been in pof- feflion of the Englifli. Here Dean Berkeley, after- wards biOiop of Cloyne, intended to found a univer- fity for the education of Indians ; but the captain of the Blip midaking his way, carried him to New Kng- land, which frudrated the projec'^. The LUCAYOS, or BAHAMA ISLANDS. Thefe iflands are fituatcd in the Atlantic ocean, between 73 and 81 degrees of welt longitude, and bc- twecen 21 and 27 degrees of north latitude. The number of them is upwards of forty, but of thofe only twelve are of confiderable extent. Bahama Proper, which gives its name to the reft, is fituatc between y8 and 81 degrees of wed longi- tude, and between 26 and 27 degrees of north lati- tude. It lies about thirty leagues ead of Florida, and is about fixty miles long and twelve broad. The idand of Providence, which is fortified by the Britifb, is about twenty- five miles long, and nine broad. It ii the mod inacceflible of all thcle iflands, and thither the Znglifli fettlers on the adjacent iflands retire, with their effefls, when they arc in danger of being attacked. Lucayo, the largcft and mod northerly iflanJ, which lies ead of Bahama Proper, is about eighty miles long, but fcarce twenty broad, and, like many of the red, is not inhabited. R N [Amtrica. principal ornament was a thin gold plate, (haped like a crcfcenr, which hung over the upi>cr lip ; and their arms were fpears, pointed with the koncs of fifties. They were an inoftcnfive, hufpitabic people, and brought the Spaniards fuch piovifioiis as the country adbrded. They had no other nierchandife to exchange for European goods but cotton and prrois t and there were no four-footed beads in thefe iflands, except a fpecies of cur dot;. On their fird vifit, the Spaniards remained here only a fljort while; but difcovering afiernards that there were pearl-fidieries in thofe Teas, and finding the inhabitants of the Bahama iflands were c.xcdltnt divers, they employed them in diving for pearl oyfters, and obliged them frequently to continue in the wa- ter beyond their ftrength. By this barbarous oppref- fion the natives were in a few years deftroyed, and the iflanf^s continued for a long time deditute of in-, habitants. Providence, and the neighbou;ing iflands, afier- wards became the refuge of privateers and buccaneers ; but about the year 1667, Captain William S.ivle, be- ing drivi;ii thither by drcfs of weather, and acquiint- ing the proprietors of Carolina with the commodiouf- lufs of the dation, they obtained a grant of the ifl ind from Charles II. and a fcitliniont was foon made upon it. But the i9|>aniards and 1-rench uniting their forces, demoliflied the forts which had been erciSed by the colony, carrying olf, at the fame time, a great many of the inhabiianti and their negroes. Thofe two powers, however, quitting the ifland afterwards, the Englifh who efcaped rebuilt their forts, and receiving a reinforcement, made the ifland dronger than ever. Providence is now a royal government, and ii com- modionfly fituatcd for commanding the navigation of thofe fcas. Thcfe ina.:ds, through which our (hips return from Jamaica, form what is called the Windward Paflage, and is very dangerous on account of the rocks and (helves. The other paflage is by the Gulf of Florida, which is farther about, and more in the way of Spanidi crullers, which makes it to be avoided in time of war. U B Cuba is fituated in the mouth of the Gulf of Me- xico, between 65 and 83 degrees of wi.d lonziiude, and between 20 and jj degrees of north latitude. It is the largcd of the American iflands, being eight Thcfe iflands were difcovered by Columbus in hundred miles in length, and upwards of a hundred 1491, who gave to Guanami, or Cat Ifland, which 1 broad in mod places. A chain of hills runs along the was the fird he made, the name of St. Salvador, in I middle of the country from ead to wed, whence ifl'ue memory of his deliverance from his mutinous crew, ' fiv-ne fmall dreams, but there is hardly a navigable who had confnired to throw him over board, for engaging them 'n fuch an enterprizc ; and were pre- vented only by his providentially difcovering a light on (liore, the very night which had been fixed for carrying their defign into execution, They found th'. illund well Inhabited by people of a middle da- liirc, and olive complexion, who went perfeiStly naked. Some of them painted their bodies red, Thcl.- river in the ifland. The produce here is the fame as in the neighbouring toniinent ; and European cattle art vadly multiplied, but European grain docs not thrive in t+iis country, on which account the inhabi- tants make their bread chiefly of caflavi root. The town of St. J'gn, in the foiith-ead part of the ifland, is cftetmed th^ capital; but the Havan- nah, in 'he ponhwcd, i; nuuh moie confiderable on American Islands.] G E N E R A' L TRAVELLER. 637 on account of its trade, anJ the rendezvous of gal- leons annually from Carthagena and Vera-Crue, on their return to Spain, The harbour, which is of difficult accefs, is fecure and fpaciuus. The town contains about two thuufand inhabitants, befides the garrifon. Here the governor of the ifland, the biftiop, and mol^ ^F the men of figure and bufinefs refide. There arc feveral other harbours in the iHand, par- ticularly at Santa Havannah ; and at the town of liaracoa, in the north-ead part of the ifland. Were it not for its commodious harbours, this ifland would probably have been long fince abandoned by the Spaniards, to whom it belongs i for it is not fertile, and on account of the great heat, and the periodical rains in the fummer, the air is very un- hcalthful. Cuba was difcovered by Columbus in the year 1492 ; but in all his voy.iges he never found that it was an ifland. JAMAICA. Jamaica is fituate between feventy-fiv? and feventy- nine degrees of weft longitude, and between fcventeen and eighteen degrees odd minutes of north latitude, about t lirty- three lengues fouih of the ifland of Cuba, The le.igib of it, from caft to weft, is near a hun dred and forty miles, and the breadth about fixty. A chain of mountains, as in the ifland laft mentioned, extends along the middle of the country from well to eaft, named the Blue Mountains ; the hightft of which is called Monte Diaboli. Thofe hills are rocky, but covered with woods of tall and ftrcight timber. According to Sir Hans Sloanc, there are more than a Hundred rivers in the ifland, but none of them na- vigable; falling precipitately from the mountains, and difcharging thtmfelves into the fea, either on the north or fouth fide They are well ftored with fi(h of va- rious kinds, thougli thiy contain none of the Euro- pean fpecies, except eels and craw-fifli. In dry years, frelh water is very fcarce near the on every fide, and its leaves refemble thofe of the bay-tree. The flowers arc formed at the ends of the twigs, each ftalk bearing one. The berries are rather longer than thofe of the juniper, like which, when ripe, they become black and fmooth; but before they reach maturity, they are picked ofFthe tree, and dried in the fun. This tree grows moftly upon the moun> tains. The ifland alfo produces the wild cinn:imon-tree, the bark of which is much ufcd in medicine; the manchineal, which bears n beautiful apple, and af- fords a fine wood for cabinet-makers ; but the apple and juice are poifonous. Here arc alfo the mahogany- tree, the cedar, and the cabb.igc-trce ; the latter of which grows about a hundred foot high. This tree is remarkable for the extreme hardnefs of its wood, and it bears upon the top a fubOance, which in tafte and appearance refembles cabbage. Here grows the palm, whence is drawn an oil much eftccmcd by the negroes; the white wood, never aflx-dled with the worm in which thofe fens abound; the foap-tree, the berries of which anfwer all the purpofes of wafhing ; the mangrove and olive-bark, ufi-ful to tanners ; the fuflick red - wood ; and, lately, the log wood, em- ployed in dying. The forcfis alfo produce the aloes, and cochineal plant, with guaiacum, farfaparilla, china- root, caOia, and tamarinds. Salt is made here in ponds, into which the fea has accefs. The moiflure exhaling by the heat of the fun, the fait is left at the bottom, in great plenty. It is not perfeiSly white, nor in fmall grains, but in large lumps. The ftaple of the ifland is fugarcane, befides which it produces the cocoa-nut, oranges, lemons, citrons, cotton, indigo, tobacco, and fome other ar- ticles. Jamaica lying feveral degrees within the tropic, enjoys the trade-wind, which on the fouth-fide of the ifland is called a fca-brecze. It rifes about eight o'clock in the morning, and increafes till twelve ; after which it gradually abates, till at four it totally ceafes. About eight in the evening begins the land-breeze. fea, and at a diftancc from rivulets. At Port Royal, blowing four leagues into the fea. It continues in- particulatly, the well-water is brackifh, and occafions jcreafing till twelve at night, and decreafes till four. fluxes, which have carried off^ many thoufands of our This is the ordinary courfc ; but fometimes the fea- feamen. The river-water alfo taftes of copper, and proves very unwholefome, unlefs it (lands to fettle, before it is drank. There are fome fprings and ri- vulets that putrify in their courfe, and flop the chan- breczcs arc unufually violent, efpecially at new and full moon. As the trade- wind between the tropics comes not direilly from the eaft, but varies from the north-ealT: nel ; and many falt-fprings under the hills, about two 1 t* the fouth-eaft-, according to the pofition of the miles from the fea, which uniting their ftreams, form ' fun ; the fea-brecze here has the like variation, not a (alt-river. At Port Morant, near the eaft end of learning always from the fame point. The land- the ifland, is a hot-bati), the waters of which is j breezes, however, come always from the ridge of drank, and likewife ufed externally for the gripes, hills, and from the fame point of them, both on the the common difcafc of the iflanJers. ] north and fouth fides of the ifland. The natural produ«3ions of this ifland are as nii- ! The land-wind blowing in tnc night, and the fea- rrerous as jjcrhaps in any fpot in the world of the ' breeze in the day, no fliipping can come into the fame fize. The tree which bears pimento, or all- 1 port except in the day-time; nor go out but fooii fpice, commonly called Jamaica pepper, rifes to the I after break of d.iy. height of above thirty foot, is ftreight, of a mode- rate ihicknefs, and covered with a fmooth, fliining, ^rey bark. It (hoots out a valt number of branches 2 The winds called the norths come in when the fun is near th-? tropic of Capricorn, This wind i» very cold and unhealthy. It is mtire violent in the night. I ;i» 63« H M N America.] night, having then the additional force of the land- wind. It checks the growth of the canes, and all vegetables on the north fide of the ifland, but ii hin- dered by the ridge of mountains from doing much damage on the fouth, where it feldom raini with this wind. As at (ea, within the latitude of the trade-winds, one meets with tornadoes ; fo there happens fome- times here s violent weft wind, dire£)Iy contrary to the monfoon ; but this does not occur often, and is only of (hort duration. The fea- breeze, when it blows hard, is thought to hinder the rain from coming to the plains, it for the mod part then raining on the hills. On this ac> count, there arc many fprings and rivulets in the mountains, but few or none in the plains } and the rivers fometimes fuffer great inundations in the latter, when no rain has fallen in the neighbourhood. The rains here are more or Icfs violent, and fome at difl'crent fc.-ifons, according to th-- fituation of the places. In general, however, the two great rainy feafons are in May and Odlober i in which months, at new or full moon, they continue inceflantly for a fortnight ; fo that all the low grounds are laid under water fome inches, and the roads are almoft im- paflable. Rain is alfo ufual in the month of January, but it is neither fo violent nor of fo Inn^ continuance as in the two other feafons. The dews here are fo great within land, that the water drops from the trees in the morning, as if it had rained j but there -are few if any fogs in the plains, or fandy places near the fea. Neither froft jior fnow is evtr feen in this climate, but fometimes hail, which is very large. This comes with the .lorth winds, which blow with great violence. Earthquakes are percei <„ {.r.;'^ almoft annually, and there is hardly a day in v:h\^i\ tV- i ii, does not accompany the rain in the mounti: ■■ as in other places, is for t' • iioft pan ; ■, ic-.' J-;': ti/ light- ning j and if it be fair weather, .ij^ ,ialjy in the hotteft feafons, it lightens almoft the whole night. The ifland is divided into ninetien parifties, whi^h fend each two members to the afTembly. The chief towns are, St. Jago de la Vega, or Spanifli Town j Kingfton; Port Paflage; and Port Royal. Spanifli Town, the capital, is pleafantly (ituated in a fine plain upon the river Cobre, in the fouth-caft part of the ifland. It confifts of near a thoufand houfcs. Here the governor refides, and the general aflembly and courts of jufticc are held. Kingfton is a port- town, fituated on the north fide of the bay of Port Royal, ten or twelve miles fouth- eaft of Spanifli Town. Since the repeated misfortunes of the town of Port Royal, it is become a large and populous place, ruch frequented by merchants, and fea-faring people J ort i'afl'ige is alio a fea-port town, fituated at ihe mouth of t'lR river Cobre, i" -en miles fouth-eaft of Spanifli Town, It obtained its name from being the greateft thoroughfare in the ifland, at leaft between Port Royal and Spanifli Town. It is not large, but conlifta chiefly of houfes of entertainment, and has a fort ere£)ed for its defence. Port Royal, before its deftruAion by an earthquake, in the year 1697, was fituated in the fouth>ea(t part of the ifland, at the extremity of a large flip or point of .. '.d, running weflcrly about twelve miles from the main ifland ; having the ocean on the fouth, and a fine bay of the fca, which forms the harbour, on the north, well defended by feveral forts «iid platforms of guns. Tlve harbour is aboat three leagues broad in moft places, and fo deep that a ftiip of fcven hun- dred tons may lay her fiJe on the fliore ; nor does there want good anchorage in any part of it. The town contained above fifteen hundred houfcs, and was greatly frequented by merchants and planters. This was the ftate of Port Royal in the year of tiie Revolution ; but fince that epoch it his been alm(^ft totally deftroyed three times; firft by an earthquaks, in 1692 J next by a fire, in 1702; and laftly, by a violent ftorm and inundation of the fea, in 1722. The fiift of thofe c- ■. lities was accompanifd with extraordinary horror. The earth fuddenly opeiing, fwallowed up a great number of houfes and people ; and water at the faiie time gtifliing from the openings of the earth, overw!rcim"d a multitude of the inha- bitants J fome of V'hoi ': ad afterwards the good for- tune to be favJ.i! by -jOii.. Several ihips were caft awa\ In the h- lour ; r 1 the Swan Frigate, which lay in the ao.'.. to cr.n'.n, was carried over the tops of the finking l.fiv'---. ir. fome places the earth opened ,»nd .^uic y <• quick. Several perfons might the middle, and others appear- ..'ft above ground, were fqucezed wl ich WT. clear before the eartb- quakt, Ucarae, in a ininute's time, as red, and as hot, as 1.1 oven. It is computed that fifteen hun- dred perfons periflied by this cr'amity, and as many more by ficknefs, fuppofed to ^e occafioned by the noifome vapours th.it proceeded '••om the openings of the earth. The earthquake was ge-srally felt all over ^h« ifland, and the noife in the mountains was fo ter- rible, that many flaves, who had before run thither, returned to their mafters. Tv/s mountains lying be- tween Spanifli Town and S'xteen-miles Walk, unit- ed, and ftopped the current of a river, which over- flowed feveral woods and favannahs. On the north fide of the ifland, above a thoufand acres of land were funk, with the houfes and inhabitants. At Ytllows, a f.reat mountain fplit, and deftroyed fe- vera! plantations, with the people on them. One plantation, in particular, was removed a mile from the place where it flood. The food cf the inhabitants of Jamaica is generally fuch as in England. There are in the favannahs great plenty of cattle, but beef, though faltol, can- not be kept many days, and frefli beef is apt to cor- rupt in four or five hours. Butchers therefore al- ways kill in the morning juft before day, and by feven o'clock the markets for frefli meat are over. They likewife have feveral kinds of turtle, with the manatea, or fca-cow, and a fmall quadruped, named tb« be kin funk dov i' ifig with 'leii iier to dc.'.*'\, .i )T-j, American i-Asns.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 639 the racoon. Rats are fold by the dozen, and >rhen they have been bred among the fugar- canes, arc ;aten by the negroes ; as are alfo fnalccs, and culii, a fpecies of worm. The moft common drink is water. The wine, which agrees bell with the climate, is madeira. Befides which, cyder, beer, and ale, arc alfo brought thither from the northern colonics, or from England ; but thofe do not keep well. The principal commodity of this iflund is fugars, of which they export twenty thoufand hogfhcads a yep.r, fome of thofe weighing a ton. The moft of this produce is fcnt to the mother-country, but a fmal' part of it goes to North America, in exchange for beef, porlc, cheefe, corn, peafe, (laves, planks, pitch, and tar. Of rum the planters export about four thoufand puncheons, which is efteemed better than that of the other Weft India iflands. They alfo export mulalTes, in which they make the greateft part of their returns for New Knglai\d ; and likewife cot* ton, to the amount of two thoufand bags. Indigo was formerly much cultivated, but the quantity now made is inconfiderable. Some cocoa and coffee are alfo exported ; but the latter not much efteemed. Sefidcs thofe articles, the inhabitants of Jamaica fend to Britain a confiderable quantity of pimento, ginger, drugs, fweetmeats, with mahogany and manchineal- plank, and log-wood ; the latter of which is pro- cured from the Bay of Honduras. The trade which is carried on between Jamaica and the Spanifh main, is yet more profitable than that of log-wood, efpecially in time of war. It it conduced in the following manner : the veflel from J.imaica being furnifhcd with negroes, and a proper aflbrtment of goods, proceeds to a place c. lied Monkey Key, within four miles of Porto Bello. On its ar- rival, a perfon underftanding the Spanifh tongue is immediately fent afhore, to give notice to the mer- chants of that town. Information is likewife given, with all poflible fpecd, to the merchants of Panama. The traders inftantly fet out difguifed like peafants, and carry their filvcr in earthen jars, covered with flour, to deceive the officers of the revenut. When they come on board, they are handfomely entertained, and at their departure take with them either negroe- Jlave:., or dry goods, packed up in fuch a manner as to be carried by one perfon, for which they make payment in dollars. They are furnifhed by the Ihip with provifions fufficient to fervc them on their re- turn. This traffic commonly lads about five or fix weeks. If the whole cargo is not difpofcd of at this place, they fleer to a harbour called the Brins, about five miles diftant from Carthagena, where they quick- ly find a vent for the reft of their goods. Thofe aie the two principal but not the only places where this trade is carried on. The Caraccas, and many other ports upon the coaft, have likewife their Iharc. Neither is tlic Britifli the only nation con ctriied in it. 1 lit inhabitants of Mifpmioh, and the Dutch from Curafiba alfo interfere ; and have with- in thcfe few years alrnoll cut out the Lnglifh. This trade it prohibited by the Spaiii.irds under fivere pc- No, 53. nalties j and the guarda coftas, when they catch any of thofe interlopers, tret them little better than i( they were pirates. They alfo frequently feize, and otherwife iialtreat the iiir traders, under the pre. tence 0*° their being coi. 'kerned in this contraband fafflwlc; a caufe from which frequent difputes have arifen between the courts of Great Britain and Spain. The commerce at all times, and the prizes that are carried into Jamaica in time of war, draw thither a vaft influx oftreafure, which induces the inhabitants to live in a llate of luxury almoft exceeding what is known in any other place. 7'his ifland was difcovered by Columbus in his fecond voyage to America, and he entertained fo fa- vourable an opinion of it, that he niarkcd it out as an eftate for himfelf. Notwithftanding the ingratitude of the court of Spain to Columbus, the government and property of Jamaica was granted to his family j and his fon was the firft European governor of the ifland, with the ti'lc of Duke de la Vega. The descendants of the great Columbus, howevc, dege- nerated from his virtues^ and having no idea of . ny Wt" Indian acquifition that did not produce go/d and filver, negiedled the impro.emr..i ot '.ne colony, and ftudied only to raife the rents, and opprc's the planters. Columbus had preferred tlii^ ifland on ac- count of its fituation and populoufnefs ; but his pofte- rity, or their fubftitutes, murdered fixty thoufand of the natives, under the moft exquifite tortures. Jamaica came into our pofleffion during the ufur- pation of Cromwell, by mean^ o.' a formidable arma- ment, fitted out with a view to reduce the ifla.i.l of Hif- paniola, under the command of colonel VemUc, and admiral Penn, who failed fro.;, E..^land with (even thoufand land forces on board, Beinji; joined by many of the inhabitants of Barbadoes.. as in no good pofture of defence. ' )n the fecond of May the troops were landed 011 Jamaica, and laid fiege to St. Jago, the capital, Tho inhabitants not being in condition to oppofc fo ftrong a force, would have furrendered immediately, had it not been for the unaccountable delays of the Englifti generals and commiflioners. At laft, however, the town capitulated ; but not until the inhabitants had fecreicd their moft valuable etFech in the mountains ; ar. ; he whole ifiand foon fhared the fate gf the capAal, The Englifli immediately began planting the fouth and fouthcjft parts of the iland, of which colonel d'Oyky was left governor, with three thoufand met 7 U Mcaa \'i ■ 4'A ■}y\ -i. "^": '.' .'- ■ ' 11. ■*■: ■ 1- ■.:-:r-;; .. .1 ;'■' t- '■a... ^« T H E MODERN [America. Mean while the Spaniards at St. Cherenes, having , been reinl'urced with thirty companies, befides artil- lery and Drovifions, from Cuba and the continent, had thrown up fcveral formidable works at Rio Nuibo, in , the precindl of St. Mary's. D'Oyley attacked them, j drove them from their works in a few days, with ' great lofs, and dL-moli/hcd their intrenchmcnis. i They next attempted to make a ftand at Point Pedro, ' from which they wer<^ iikewife driven, and were obliged at laft to return to Cuba, leaving the Englifli in quiet pofleflion of their new conqucft, which w .s confirmed by a fubfcquent treaty between the tMo nations. The common diflempers in this ifland are fevers, fluxes, and dry gripes -, but notwithftanding the great heat of the climate, thofc of the inhabitants who carefully avoid expofing themfclvcs tg the .tight dews, are in little danger of incurring any fatal difcafe, and the climate admits of great latitude in the drinking of punch. The government of Jamaica Is reputed the bcfl in the gift of the crown, that of Ireland excepted. The fianding falary is two thuufand five hundred pound3 a year. The afTcmbly votes the governor as much more; and this, with the great perquifttes annexed to ihc ofiice, m^kes the whole near the annual value of ten thoufaiii' pounds. The religion of the church of England univcrfally prevails, and the chief ecclcfiaflical magi (Irate is the i;ihop of London's commiflary. HISPANIOLA, OR St. DOM "TGO. Hii'paniola is fituated twenty leagues call of Cuba. It is a large idand, being fix hundred miles long, aiut two hundred broad. A ..iiain of mountains run a;^iig the middle of it, from which gold fand was formerly walbcd down into .ic nvukis ; but the ifland has nut afforded f'^ of t.-i- commodity for feveral year'. The air iiiJ I'eafons here are the iamc as in other places between the tropicj. The capital is St. Domingo, fituated in th« fouth fide of the ifland, in fixty-uine degrees fifteen mi- nutes oi weft longitude, and in ten degrees twenty- five minutes north latitude. I; is built after the Spanifh model, and contains fcveral line churches and monaflcries. Here is the fee of an archbilhop, to whom the bifliop of St, Jago, in Cuba, is fufFragaa ; and at this place the SpaniOt goicrnor refidcs. The ifland is divided between the Spaniards and French, the former occupying the fouth-eall part of it, and the latter the north-weft. Pefides the capital, the . ;Ber towns fuhjc(5l to Spain are, Higney, fituated thirty leagues eaft of St. Da- mingo i /ibf), 'wcnty leagues eaft of St. Domingo ; Cotuy, at the call end of the ilbnd ; Azua, eight leagues weft of the capital i and Conccpiion t'e la Vc; ., about 'i,4hty miles Iiorth of St. Domingo. The towns fiilijeft to the French are, Petit Guaves, a port-town fituated on a great bay at the weft end oT ^he ifliind ; Logane, another port-lown in the fame Way ; and Port Lewis. At the difcovcry of this ifland by Columbus, the number of the natives v/as cumputed at two millions i but thefc were extirpated in a few years by the cx- :::f"e fcverity of the Spaniards, who thcnifelvcs aban- doned I'le ifland, after the gold und pearls, which they found 0.1 their arrival, were exii.uifled. The cattle which V ere brought from Europe being vaflly multi- plied, and running wild, after the emigration of the inhabif.ints, the bucc.innccrs, or free- hooters, began to fettle here. The Spaniiinls finding their foreign traflit much interrupted by this people, and jcaloui that .fornc other power mi(jht take pofleflion of the illaad, fent hither colonies again, 7'hcy took the ca- pital city of Domingo, and alinoft the whole foutli. eaft coaft of the ifland, but could not entirely difpoflefs the buccaneers of the north weft part. The latter be- ing chiefly natives of France, ihey were fupported by the French king, who fent thither a governor, obliging the buccaneers to cultivate the lands, and live in fub- jei^lion to the laws of France. Uifpaniola may be confidcred as one of the moft va- luable acquifitions which the French have in America, particularly with regard to their fugar plantations, and the many excellent harbours and forts in this ifland, which gives them an opportunity of greatly annoying th% comoiercc of other nations in time of war. There are feveral fmall iflands neir the coaft of Hifpaniola ; the chief of which are, Savona and St. Catalina at the fouth-eaft part of the ifland ; Navaza, at the weft end; Guanabo, in the bay of Leoganc ; and Tortuga, on the north-weft coaft. The laft of thefe iflands is between twenty and thirty leagues in circumference, and has an excellent harbour, of diflicult acccfs. Here the buccaneers and free-bootcrs of all nations bad their firft rendezvous, and fortifying the ifland, bid defiance for fome year* to all the world. They confifted chiefly of the French hunters of Hifpaniola, who were afterwards joined by ; i.imbers of Englifli, Dutch, and other feamen. Thty continued for fume time to be very formidable, and committed depredations in ihofe parts, both by fea and I land i till at length they became fubjeft to the crown ! of France, in the manner which has beep men* tioncd. PORTO RICO. Porto Rico, or Juan de Porto Rico, is fituated between fixty-fivc and fixty-eight degrees of weft loii- gitudc, and in nineteen degrees of north latitude, fifty miles eaft of Hifpaniola, This ifland is about a hundrcti and twenty miles long, and fixty broad. It is agreeably diverfified with hills and vallics, woods and open fields, and is plentifully watered with rivu- lets, T he fcafons and produce are the Lime here as in the three iflands laft mentioned, namely, Cuba, Jamaica, and Hifpaniola, which, with Porto Rico, are denominated the Great Antilles. The town of Porto Rico, or St. John, ft.inds in a little ifland joined to Porto Rico by a caufcvvay. It is defended by forts and batce/ics, and has a capacious liatbour, This IIERICA. American Islands.] GENERAL TRAVELLER, thoufand whitet, and twenty thoufand negroes. This iflaiid, on account of its being extremely mountain-* ou! in the middle, is lajd to lontain not more than twenty four thoufand acres fit for fugar, of which it produces ten thoufand hoglheads annually, and rum >n the ufual proportion, which is that uf three to five. By an uncommon accident, the Englifh, under Sir Thomas Warner, and the French, under M, Dcf- nanibue, arrived on this ifland the fame day, in the year 1626. They made an amicable divifion of it be- tween them j agreeing, however, that the fifhirig and hunting, the mines, fajt-ponds, and mofl valuable timber, (hould remain in common to both nations. After this they fell to planting ; in which the Eng. and the principal in the poflbfTion of the Britifh is \\(h, being more regularly fupplied from home, fuc- This ifland wai difcovercd by Columbus, in 1493, but it WIS not planted by the Spaniards till the year 1 5 10, w'jcn they arc faid to have cxercifed extreme barbarity on the inhabitanti in eftablifliing this fettle- men t. Th£ caribbee islands. Southward, and to the eaft of the Great Antilles, lis the Caribbee Iflands, of which there is a great number, The firft that we meet with is the Virgin Iflands, fiiuated on the cail fide of Porto Rico, and which ar« very fmall. Of thole, the ifland of St. Thomas is a Danifh fettlement ) Saba and Euflatlu belong to the Dutch ; This Tortola. 7 his ifland is very unhealthy, its chief pro- duce is cotton, faid to be of the bed quality of any that is raifed in thofe parts of the world. Barbuda is fltuated in eighteen degrees of north la- titude. It is abou: twenty miles long, and twelve broad. This ifland is the properly of the Codrington family, and produces the fame fruits as the other Ca- ribbecs i but the inha itants, inllcad of cultivating fugar-c-nes, apply themfelves to breeding of cattle, and raifing proviiions, for which they meet with a very good market in the other iflands. St. C HRISTOPHER'S. One of the Caribbee Iflands of greater import- ;u; i^ St. Chriftopher's, vulgarly called St. Kitt's, fitu. d ■•1 fixty-four degrees ten minutes of weft longitude, and in feventeen degrees thirty minutes north latitude. This ifland is about i'evcnty-five miles in circumference, and has in the middle a very high mountain, whence idue fomc rivulets. The principal commodities arc fugar and rum, the former of which is faid to be the befl of any that our iflands produce. The towns of greateft note, are Bafle Terre and Sandy Point. There is not 3 harbour in the whole ifland j on account of the ihore being fandy, and a continual furf beating upon it, which makes landing always inconvenient, and fometimes dangerous. To fupp'y this defedf, the inha- bitants are obliged to adopt a very peculiar method of (hipping and unloading their goods ; ufing for that purpol'c a fmall boat, of a particular conftruflion, called a mofes. This comes from the flilp, manned with the mofl expert rowers. When they fee what they call a lull, or any abatement in the violence of the furgc, they pufh afliore, and lay the broad-fide of the mofes to the beach, from which the hogfhead is rolled in. In this tedious and inconverjient manner the fugar is carried aboard by fingie hogflieads j but accidents frequently happen by which they are lofl. Rum, cotton, and other commodities which will bear the water, are generally fwam o(F or afhore. The f.ime method of leading and unloading is, for the fame caul'es, ufed it Scv'a and Montferiat. The air at St. Kitt's i* accounted wholefomc, and not fo hot as that of Jamaica, being qualified by the fea-brec£e. The inhabitants arc computed tt> be feven ceedcd farter. Three years after the full fettlcment, they were diflodgcd by the Spaniards, who beheld with jcaloufy their progrefs in the Caribbee Iflands j but the latter evacuating the ifland, the fettlers of the two other nations returned, and tooV pofTeflion of iheir former habitations. The Englifli built for them- felves elegant and commodious houfcs, whilfl the French were contented to refide in huts, after the manner of the naiive Caribbeans. The two coloniei feem to have lived together in great harmony, till the war in the reign of Queen Anne, when the French part of the ifland was conquered by the Englifli, and ;he whole was finally ceded to Great Britain by the treaty of Utrecht. N S. Nevis is feparated from the eaft end of St. Chrifto- pher's by a narrow channel. It is about fix leagues ia circumference, appearing to be one continued moun- tain, with the plantations lying on the fides of it, near the bottom. Small as it is, it was once in a very flourifhing ftaie, containing about ten thoufand white, and twenty thoufand black inhabitants, which, however, are now reduced to half the number. It produces fix thoufand hogfhcads of fugar, with rum in proportion. A N T E G O. Antego, or Antigua, is fituated twenty leagues caft of St. Chriflophcr's, in fixty two degrees five minutes of well lougitude, and in feventeen degrees thirty mi- nutes of north latitude. This ifland having norivera, and but few fprings, or fuch as are brackifh, the inha- bitants are obliged to preferve the rain-water in cif- terns. The air here is not fo wholefomc as in the neighbouring iflands, and it is more fubjeif to hurri- canes ; but it has excellent harbours, particularly Engllfh harbour, which is capable of receiving the largeft man of war in the navy. Here is alfo a dock- yard, fupplied with all ftores and convcnicncies for repairing and careening (hips. The principal trade* however, is carried on in the harbour of St. John's, the capital, fituated in the north-wcfl part of the ifland, and which has water fuificiently deep for mer- (<_ chant W rt 642 II B M O D N [America. Amf. ohant velTels. The town of St. John's was once in a very flourifhing condition, as may be judged by the lofi fudained at the late fire, which was compuicd at the amazing fum of four hundred thoufand pounds. This ifland was firft attempted to be fettled by Sir Thomas Warner, about the fame time with St, Chrif- topher's arid Nevis : but no cftablifhment then took. place. It was afterwards granted by Charlci. II, to lord Willoughby, then governor of Barbudocs, who fettled a colony upon it in the fpace of a few years. In a (hort time, but by what means is not evident, it became again the public property. It ralfcs, at prefent, about fixteen thoufand hoglhcads of fugar, which was at firft of a very bad quality, unRt for the £ngli(h market ; but the planters have greatly im- proved their flaple fince, and it is now as good as in any of the other idands, MONTSERRAT. Montferrat is fituated ten leagues fouth-weft of An- tego, and fo named by the Spaniards, from a mountain in it, refembling that of Montferrat in Catalonia. This ifland is about eighteen miles in circumference, and iilccwife produces fugar and rum. Thcfe four iflands, of St. Chriftopher's, Nevis, Antigua, and Montferrat, are all under the govern- ment of one captain-general, who enjoys a very con- fiderable appointment, amounting to three thoufand five hundred pounds <. year. His refidencc is generally at Antego. Each of thcfe illands has its feperate council and afTembly, and a dillincfl governor, whofc falary 1$ about two hundred pounds a year. St. BARTHOLOMEWS, and St. MARTIN'S. St. Bartholomew's is a fmall ifland, fituated ten leagues north of St. Chriflopher's ; and St. Martin's is another fmall ifland, a little to the northward of the former. They both belong to the French, and pro- duce rum and fugir. GUADALUPE. Guadalupe is fituated in fixty-one degrees twenty- five minutes of well longitude, and in fixteen de- grees twenty minutes of north latitude. This is one of the largefl of the Caribbee Iflands, being forty-live miles long, and thirty-flx broad } but ought rather to be confidcred as two iflands, divided from each other by a fmall arm of the fca, not above three hundred foot over in the wideft part. One of thcfe is called Grande Terre, the other Guadalupe. The former is alr.iofl deflitute of frefh water, but in the latter not lefs than fifty rivers empty themfelvcs into the fca, many of which are n.ivigablc for boats nine miles up the country. No place in the Weft Indies affords more agreeable and romantic fcenes. It has many high mountains, one of which, that far overtops the rcfl, ib a volcano, and producer confiderable quantities of fulphur. The ifland alfo produces hot baths, of great life in medicine. The la in the valleys is extremely fertile, and produces the ufual Weft Indian commodi- ties, vix. fugar, indigo, cofFte, cotton, ginger, &r. and the mountains abound in game. The air is more temperate and falubriuus than it is in general between the tropics, and the country is populuos and flou- rifliing. The French began to fettle this ifland fo early as 1632 i but the colony rcm.iined lung in a lan[;uifhin{; condition, and did not emerge from its difficulties till after the peace of Utrecht. This ifland was reduced by the Britilh forcei in the lafl war, but wiis rcflurrd to the French at the fubfequent peace. The fmall adjacent iflands of Dorcada, Santos, Petite Terre, and Marigalante, belong alfo to the French, and arc under the fame govcinnient with Guadalupe. DOMINICA. Dominica is fltuated in flxty-one degrees twenty- four minutes of weft longitude, and in fifteen degrees of north latitude. The property of this ifland was dif- puted by the Britifh and French, but by the laft peace it was finally ceded to the former nation. Since that time it has been cultivated with fuccefs ; but was taken lad year by the French. M A R T I N I C O. Martinico is fituated in ftxty-one degrees of weft longitude, and in between fourteen and fifteen degrees of north latitude. The fituation of this ifland is very advantageous for defence, the fhore, on every fide, being indented with very deep bays, called Cul de facs, and the fands, difcovcrable only at low water, form* ing in many places a hidden, and almoft infurmount> able barrier. A ridge of lofty mountains runs north- weft and fouth eafl, quite through the ifland ; and both fides of the country are interfei^ed, at fmall dif> t..nccs, with deep gullies, throLgh which, in the rainy feafon, the water rufhes down with great impetuolity. In other refpefls the ifland is picafant and fruitful. ' The two principal towns are St. Pierre and Port Royal, both which are confiderable for their magni- tude, trade, and ftrength. This ifland belongs alfo to the French, and the produce of it is the fame with that of the other Caribbees. St. L U C I A. St. Lucia is fituated in fixty-one degrees of weft longitude, and in thirteen degrees thirty minutes of north latitude. It is about twenty-two miles in length, and near half as much in breath. Some por- tions of it are hilly, but the greater part is a rich foil, well watered wi'h rivulets, and futnifticd with timber. It has feveral good bays, and coiiinioJious harboHfs. To this ifland the Englifh in B.irbadocs formerly re- forted to cut timber, and fiipply ihomklvcs with other ncccfljrics ; and it was reputed to much the property of Great Britain, that it has been conftantK included in the comtnifllon of the governor of B.ubAdocs. In the year 1722, king George I. made a grant of it to the du |iruvi>: but th when biUinj; lif wh Mont ixpcd t'oiirt Lucia but a pl.\iil thcni America. an commodi- gingcr, Scr. e air is more 'cr.il licuvccii ' aiij ilou. to carl/ m 'j"U;uifliin/; iScultics till was reduced Win rtdorrd 'lie fmall etiic Terre, and arc ch I'"!! twcnfy- tpcn degrees ind vfas dif. 1= laft peace o". Since iccef] J but D. Jes of weft ecu degrees and is very every fide, -uldefacj, It", form- ifurmount- U'ls north- land i and Anall dif- 1 tlie rainy ipetuofity. uitful. and Port r magni. ongs aifo inic with of weft minutes miles ill me por- ich foil, timber, irbouis. ;rly rc- h other roperly icliidcd ". In f it to liK American Islands.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. the Juke of Montn^u, who fent thilhcr feveral fliipi (iruvidrd with iiec(.n°arie9 for eltjbliiliiiig a fcitlement ; but the planters had hardly begun their oper.iiionii when they were expelled by a party of the French belonying to the ifland of Martinico ; in tonfi.queiicc of whuh "he projert was fruftrated, and the dulte of Montagu loft all the expence he had been at in this ixpediticin, amounting to forty thoufand poundi. The court (if Citcat Britain not refenung this outrage, St. I,ucia w.n henceforth confidcred as a neutral ilUiid j hut ajliir the peace of Aix la Chapelle the French pl.iiucd and fortified it, and it was forninlly ceded to them at the peace in 1763. 6i3 St. V I N C K N T. •St. Vincent i> filuatc in fixty one desjreos twenty niiiiu!c3 of weft longitude, and in thirteen degrees of norili l.ititudc. 'I'his ifland was alfu comprehend- ed in the comniifTion ot the governor of Barbadoes, and (h.iMil the fame fate wiih bt. Lucia, in the tr infailion mentioned in the preceding; article. It was ceded to Great Britain by the treaty of peace in 1-63 1 but was taken by the French laft year. Its produce is the fame with that cf the other Caribbcc iHands, BARBADOES. Barbadoes ia fituate in fifty-nine degrees of weft longitude, and thirteen of north latitude, about feventy miles eaft of St, Vincent. It is nearly of a triangular form, being in length twenty-five miles, from fouth to north, and at its greateft breadth fifteen miles. It is for the moft part a plain level country, except a few hills, of eafy afcent. The whole ifland appears like one continued plantation, interfperfed with a vaft number of gentlemen's houfes. The air isrookrand more healthy than in the large Weft In- dia iflands i it being fo fmall and level that it gene- rates no laud wind, and the fea-breezc, or trade-wind ucrpitually blows. In the funimer months, however, it is, like the other idands, fubjeiS to tornadoes or hutiicanes, which are very dcftruflive to the (hipping. For here aie no harbours to ftielter themfthcs, but only bays, where they lie at anchor ; and in tlic piin- cipal one, named Carlifle Bay, in the fouth weft part of the ifl.md, there is no good anchoring ground, it being foul, and apt to cut the cables. At the bottom of this bay, when; are very com- tttodiuus wharfs for the ftiipping and landing of goods, Hands the chief town, called Bridgetown, whieh was once a very floutifliing place, confilling of above twelve bundled houfes; but a few years ago, it was alnioft entirely deftroyed by two fires, which committed dreadful devaftation on account of the houfes being binli of wood. An acl of alTenibly has finre pafted, prohibiting fuch builJings in the town hereafter, and ordering that they fhall be of brick. /li tins plaee is a college, the only inftitulion of that n t.iic ill the Weft Indies. The founder was colonel C'l.drinuton, who endowed it in a very liberal man- No 53- ■ tier J but it (icms not tu have fully anfwered the bo* iievoleiit intentions ol the donor. 7 he produce of this ifland is fugar, rum, cot« ton, indigo, pimento, oranges, citrons, limes, and a variety of fruits, Hence we receive ftrong waters, called Citron-water, or Barbadoes-watcr, the fined that are any where to be met with, Huifcs and other cattle are imported to Barbadoes from the northern colonics ; but of thofe the number is not great, their being but little food for them. The white people in the ifland have been computed at forty thoufand formerly, but at prefent they are fuppoled not to exceed the half of that number ; though the iiegroe flaves are faid to amount 10 a huii- tirely covered with wood, their attempts, at firft, were far from being attended with fucccfs. In the year 1625, the property of this ifland being granted to the earl of Carlifle, by king Charles the firft, feveral perfons purchafed plantations of that nobleman, and endeavoured to raife tobacco; but this produce not turning to account, they tried cot- ton and indigo, which yielded them confiderable pro- fit. It was not till the year 1647, that fugar, their prefent ftaple, became the principal objedt of cultiva- tion. At this time, many gentlemen of rank and fortune, who had been adherents to the royal caufc, went over to Barbadoes, to avoid the perfecution of their enemies; and from this period the ifland made great advancement, both in produce and population. In the fpace of about twelve years, the inhabitants were computed at thirty thoufand, and the Indian or negroc flaves at double that number. The trade was then in the hantis of the Dutch ; but foon after, un- der Cromwell's government, it was confined to the mother-country by a£l of navigation. The colony continued to improve, and in the year 1676, reached its highcft pitch ; the white inhabitants, at that time, amounting to fifty thoufand, and the flaves a hundred thoufand. Four hundred fail of ftiips, at an average ot an hundred and fifty tons each, were employed ia the trade ; and their annual exports were reckoned to umuuiit to three hundred and fifty pounds. Since that time, however, the trade and population of the ifland have greatly declined. The firft caufe afligned 7 X for i|4 . "T H E MO for this event, is the TudJcn inctc»re of the French illands, and the feiilemrnt of others, by the Englifh, patlicula.ly Jamici, which drew away many of the inhabitant! from Barbadoes. The next caufe ii j contagioua diftemper, which bioke out in the ifland in 169a, and continuing fome yean, carried off vaft numbcri jf the people. To this may be added the impoverifiiment of the land, by which, notwith- itanding the mofl afliduoui culture, the produce of the ifland hat diminifhed. Soon after the Reftoration, king Charlei the fccond having purchafed the property of the ifland from the Earl of Kinnoul, heir to lurd Carlifle, it became faenceforth a royal government } for the fupport of which, and of the fortificaiioni, the colony has granted a duty of four and • half per cent, on their produce, amounting, one year with another, to above ten thoufand poundi. The falary of the governor, including perquifltrs, is computed to be not lei's than five thoufand pounds a year ; and all the other officers of the civil eflzblifhrnent, which it maintained with great credit, have very handlome appointments. The eftablifhed clergy, who here, as well as in the other Weft India iflands, are thofe of the church of Kngland, bave alfo a liberal jirovifion afligncd them, GRENADA. Grenada is fituate in fixty-one degrees thirty-nine minutes of weft longitude, and in twelve degrees of north latitude, fifty leagues fouth-wcft of Barbadoes, and diftant about thirty fVom the Spanifh Main. It is about thirty Englifh miles in length, and its breadth fixteen. The natural heat of the climate is greatly tempered by a conflant fea-breeze. The dry and rainy feafons are remarkably regular in their pe- riods ; the blaft has not hitherto been known in the ifland ; and what is the happieft circumilance of all, it lies out of the track of hurricanes, which, with re- fpe£l to the fecurity of the fettlements on (hore, and the fafety of the navigation, it an incftimable benefit in this part of the world. Excepting a few mountains, the country confifts of plains and gentle eminences, which are capable of cultivation to the very top. It is extremely well watered by feveral rivers, which proceed in different dire£lions from a large lake at the top of a high mountain in the centre of the ifland. Moft of the hills likewife furnifli fmaller dreams ; and there are almolt every where very fine fprings near the fea. River and fea-fifh, turtles, and wild fowl, are here in great plenty. But the chief excellence of Granada confifts in its convenience for anchorage, and in its harbours. There is good anchoring ground all along the coaft ; and on the eaft and weft feveral fmall bays and creeks, commodious for vefTels, and for landing and (hi})ping goods. Two of its harbours may be faid to be the fineft in the world. The firft of thofe lies at the fouth-eaft extremity of the ifland, and is divided into the outer and inner port. The entrance to the former is three quarters of a mile broad, but becomes gradually wider, and is about a R N [Amfrica. mile extent within. The entrance to the inner-port ii about a quarter of a mile in breadth, mJ .ilfu be- come! gradually wider. It ii for the moft p.irt kvcii fathom deep, and is excellent holdmg-grouod, bcinj; every where a foft ooay bottom. The (hips here may be alongfide of the ware-houfes, and take in thiir loading with great eafe ; after which they may, wiili very little trouble, be towed into the outer hjibour, which enjoys this peculiar advantage, that vtttiU cn\ fail either in or out with the common trade-wind. The other harbour is fitiutcd at the nurili-Hcn end of the ifland. It is a quarter of a ii.ile broad m the entrance, and fo capacious, that ir can cuiiuJn, in the utmoft fafety, a large fleet ut line of battle ftiips. Between Grcn.ida and St Vincent, In a nDiili- caft dircAion, lies a cluftti of fmall iflandi, calli.l the Cjrenadilloes. Twenty-three of them arc laid to be capable of cultivation. One of tlic largill of thofe is named Cuutiacou, It is of a circular fu;ni, about feven miles in diameter, .ind has an exccilcnc harbour. This ifland, which is now pretty well fet- tled, produces cofire and cotton, and fends three members to the alfembly of Grenada. The ifland of Bequia is alfo reckoned among tho Grenadilloes, though only two leagues fouth-weft of St. Vincent. This is the largeft of tliem all, being about twelve leagues in circumference, and is alfo faid to be the moft fruitful. It has alfo a good port. Except Jamaica, Grenada is the only Weft Indift colony which the Engliih obtained by right of con- queft } being ceded by the French, to the crown of Great Britain, at the peace of 1763, At prefcnt, how- ever, it is in the pofli:inon of the French. Grenada is recko.;cd extremely fruitful in fugati and the other commodities of the Caribbces. It is, like the other iflands, a royal gnvcrnmcnt, under which are alfo comprehended the Grenadilloes, witb Dominica, St. Vincent, and Tobago. B O. Tobago is the fouthernmoft ifland of any belong- ing to Great Britain, being fituate in eleven degree* fifteen minutes of north latitude, and in fixty-one degrees of weft longitude. It is about fifty miles long, and twelve broad. In the year i6a8, king Charles I. granted this ifland to the earl of Pem- broke and Montgomery; but no fettlement appears to have been made in confequence of this donation. During the time of the civil wars, therefore, the Dutch took pofTefTion of it, and began to clear the woods, when the Spaniards and favages from fome neighbouring iflands, entirely extirpated the new co- lonifts. From this time the ifland remained a defart, till 1664, when it was again fettled by other Dutch adventurers, who were extremely fuccefsful during the firft fourteen years, and had made it one of the moft flourifhing of the iflands. In 1678, however, they were expelled by the French, who entirely de- moliftied the plantations, and though the ifland was reftored at the treaty of Nimeguen, yet the Dutch never after made any attempts to fettle it. From g this Aembican IitANDs.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. ftH tliii liiiie it wji coDnJered ii a iKtiiul illjnd, b«- twecii ihc French vnii litiliOi, (ill l)y the peace in 176J1 it wai ceded to the Utter. 1 he foil it (eriile, and capable uf producing the fame commodities ai the «iihrr Catibbeci. The i^ovcinmcnt, as h.is bci-n men- tiuiiei} ill the preceding article, it annexed tu that af yteiyJa. TRINIDAD. Trinidad, or Trinity Idand, is Atuatc between fixty and fixty-two degrees ot well longitude, and bttwccn nine and eleven degrees of north latitude i frparatcd from the province of New Andalufu in Terra I'lrma, by a narrow fircight, called Uocca dc Oiago, about three milci over. Thii ifland is about ninety miles long, and fixty broad. The foil in fertile, producing Indian corn, the various kindi uf tr0pic.1l fruits, fugar, cotton, and tobacco of the bell quality ; but the air, like that of the neighbouring continent, is uiihcalihful. Trinidad was difuovcicd by Columbus, and appears to have been fettled by the Spaniards in a (liort time after. It was taken Uy Sir Walter Ralfigh, in the year 15951 but quitted again, and became the objcifl of a French iiivafiun in 1676. Thofc vifitants having extorted a heavy contribution from the inhabitants, alfo quitted the illand, and it flill continues Co be the property of the Spanifli na- tion. MARGARETTA. Margaretta is fituated in fixty-flve degrees of weft longitude, and in eleven degrees thirty minutes of north latitude, fixty leagues wcdward of Trinidad. It is about fifty miles in length, and near half as much in breadth, producing Indian corn, and the ufual tropical fruits, but affording a very fmall quantity either of wood or water. This ifland was alfo difcovered by Columbus, and belongs to the Spanifh crown. JUAN FERNANDEZ. Juan Fcrnandcs is fituated in the Pacific Ocean, in righty-thrce degrees of wed longitude, and thirty- three degrees forty minutes of foutb latitude. When viewed at a diftance, it appears to be furrouiidcd with craggy broken piecipices; but upon a nearer approach, the pTofpe£l changes into a landfcape the mod delightful that can be imagined ; fields of the lovelicft verdure, intermixed with groves, and watered with numerous Aieams, which in miny places iftue in the form of beautiful cafcades. The northern fide of the ifland is compofed of a range of craggy hills, covered with aromatic trees, none of which are of a fize to yield any confiderable tinber. The largeft is the myrtle, the top of which grows in a globular ihape, with as much uniformity as if it was clipped. Piemento, and cabbage-trees, alfo grow here in great plenty. The climate of this ifland is fo mild, that the trees continue green all the year round. The winter lafts no longer thin June and July, and is not then fcviir, there being only a llight Irnlf and a little h.iil, but , ■Kliines great rains. The heat of the lunmier it c(|iially moder.iie 1 nor is there much thunder, or temprlluoui weather. Some ot the hills in Juan Fernandez rel^'mblc thofe in Chili, which ibound in gold ; and there are others of a bright red foil, more beautiful than vrrinilion. This ilUnd is aliout fifteen miles long, and ne.ir fix broad, and produces a ^re.it var ety of antifcorbulic vegetables, which hare ulten afforded great relief to the iiavi|(jtors in thofc feas. When the Ccnturio.i lay at this place, commodore Aiifoii fowcd fevrral kinds of garden feedi, and planted the lionet of plutns, apri* coil, and peaches, which, according to the accounts of thel'u who have vifited the ifland fince that time, have tbriuen in an extraordinary manner. The con- veniences ali'orded in this ifland for thofe that fail in the South Sea, have lately induced the Spaniards to fortify it, I'hc only fafe harbour is on the north fide. Juan Fernandea wan formerly a place of refort lor the buccaneers, or American rovcis, who thence an- noyed the wedorn coafl of the Spanifh continent. It then alHiiindcd in gnats, which have fince been greatly diminilhcd by the Spaniards, whopurpofely fet a num- ber of dogs afliorc, to deprive the buccaneers of Chat refource. Two men are faid to have lived ffcveral years atone on this ifland, at different rimes. One was a Mofquitff Indian, and the other Alexander Selkirk, a native of Largo, in the county of Fife in Scotland, He be- longed to a (hip called the Cinque-Ports, commanded by one Stradlin);, who, upon fome difference, fet him afliorc here, where he had been before to wood and water, leaving him a firelock, with a pound of pow- der, ball, a knife, a hatchet, a kettle, fome mathe- matical indruments, a biblr, and two or three othei hooka, with a fmall quantity of tobacco, bed, bed- ding, &c, Ac fird the folitude of the place rendered him extremely unhappy, but by time and habit he lic- came reconciled to his fituation. He had erected twd huts, one of which ferved him for a kitchen, the other for a dining-room and bed- chamber. They were made of piemento wood, which fupplied him alfo with fuel and candle. The roof was of long grafs or rufhes, and his wainfcotting the fkins of goati, of which he killed near fire hundred during his refidcnce on the ifland. When his ammunition was cxhauded, he catcheJ the goats by running, in which he became fo prac- tifed, that the fwiftcd of thofe animals was hardly a match for him. W^ien his deaths were Worn out, he made for himfetf a covering of goat-fkin, joined with thongs. After living in this folitude during almoft four years and a half, he was at length taken up by a vefTcl which actidenlaHy touched at the ifland. Oil his return to Englarfd, he put his memoirs into the hinds of Daniel Defoe, in order to diged them for publication ; but the latter bafcly defrauded him of his cxpeficd emolu.nent, by converting the matethtit into a novel, under the title of Robinfon Crufoe. '^fl\f 1' 11 i'i! M A^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I UilM |Z5 ■U lii |22 £ U& 12.0 li& '^' 1 ' ^ u^ ^ 6" ► $% ^ -y. v; '^' 7 Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 145M (716) 872-4903 646 THE Masafuero. MODERN [America. Tbirtjr-one leagjes wcftward of the preceding ifland, liei ihit of Mafafucio, fometimrs diftinguiflied by the name of the left Juan Fernandex. It it very high and mountainous, of a triangular form, and about feven or eight leagues in circumference. Here alfo are many goata, and the coaft abounds with cod, caviU liers, ballibut, and crayfifli, befides feveral other kinds. Captain Carteret's crew caught here a Icing- fifbtr that weighed eighty-feven pounds, and was five foot end a half long. The fljarki were fo ravenous, that in taking foundings, one of them fwallowed the lead, by which they hauled him above water ; but he regained his liberty by difgorging his prey. By the captain's account feals are fo niimerous, that if many thoufands were killed in a nigh .< they would not be mi fled next morning. EASTER ISLAND. This ifland, which is faid to be varioufly denomi- nated by the natives, lies in 109 deg. 46 min. of weft jngitude, and in 27 deg. 4 min. of fouth latitude. It is nearly of a triangular form, its greateft extent from north-eaft to fouth-weft, is about four leagues, and its gieateft brec.Uh about two. It is for the moll part barren, and it fome places a bare rock, without auy covering of earth. From its appearance it is fuppofed to have lately Cuffered violence by fubterra- neous force. When vilited by captain Cook in the Refolution, the ground was befprrad with rocks and %nes of various fices, and which feemed to have been cxpofed to great fire, by which they had acquired a black colour, and porous texture. Towards the north was obferved a lump of black melted lava, which ap- peared to contain fome iron ore. The foil of the ifland is a dry hard clay, and though an infinite number of fiones is fcattcrcd over it, there are feveral large trails {)lanted with potatoes and plantains, but no fruit was obferved on the trees. The potatoes are of a' yellow colour, and as fweet as carrots. The country pro> duces only a few ihiubs, and not a tree that exceeds feven or eight foot in height. Here are fugar-canes, bananas, and yams, which thrive extremely well, con- fidering the quality of the ground. The fugar-canes •re about nine or ten foot high. The only quadruped found on the ifland was black rats, which are common to all the iflands in the ^outh Se.>. There are a few domeilic fowls, of a fmall breeo, and dull plumage j with two or three noddies, fo tame as to fettle on the (boulders of the natives. The water here it generally braskifb, there being «nly one well that is pvrfc£lly frefh ; and this is at the weft end of the ifland. I'hither the natives re- pair to flake their thirft, and likewife to waih them- lelves all over ; which, when the company is large, they perform in fuccefTion, The moft remarkabU curioftty in this ifland it a number of Coloflal ftatues, but of which very few are entire, and to be feen only on the coaft. On the eaft fide of the ifland are feen the ruins of three platforms of ftone-work, on each of which had flood four of thofe ftatues, but feveral of them were fall.n down. One whirh lay in this fituation mcsfurcd fif- teen foot in length, and fix in breadth acrcfs the flioulders. Each had on its head a large cilyndric ftone of a red colour. Others were found th:it mra- fured near twenty.feven foot in length, and upwards of eight foot over the fhoulders. A yet larger one was feen ftanding, in the fhade of which a company, confifting of near thirty perfons, fhcliered themfelves from the rays of the fun. The workmanfhip of ihofc ftatues is rude, but the features of the face are faiJ to be not ill cxprefTed. The ears are long, accord- ing to the diftortion praflifed in the country, and the bodies have hardly any thing of the human figure about them. How thefe iflanders, totally unacquaint- ed with any mechanic power, could raife fuch enorm- ous figures, and afterwards place the large cylindric (loncs on t.ieir head is naturally aflonifliment. The moft probable conjeflure, doubtlefi is, the ftone is faAitious, and that each figure was gradually crc£led by forming a temporary platform around it, and raif- ing the fcafFold as the work advanced. The inhabitants of this ifland are of a middle fta- ture, and generally thin. Their complexion is « chefnut brown j they have biack hair, which curls, and is remarkably ftrong. The men go entirely naked, and have their bodies maiked with pun£lures, a pra£iice more or lefs common in all the iflands of the South Tea. The lobes of their ears almoft reft on their fhoulders, by the weight of the ornaments which hang from wide holes bored through them. Thofe ufually confift of large rings made of the leaf of the fugar cane, which is very elaflic, and is rolled up like a watch fpring. The rings are covered either with the white down of feathers, or with a kind of bright cloth, of an orange colour. One of the na- tives that came aboard the Britifh veflel, wore a belt round his waift, from which a fort of net- work hung down before, but of a texture too thin to anfwer the purpofe of concealment. Round his neck was tied a firing, which fufpended a flip of flat bone about three inches in length, that hung down on his breaft. Being prefented by the fhip's crew with nails, medals, and firings of beads, he deftred to have them faliened round his neck. The women are fmall, and flender limbed, and have punAures on the face refembling the patches fome- tines ufed by the European ladies. They paint their face with a reddifh brown ruddle, over which they lay a bright oiange colour, extraAcd from the tur» meric rootj or, inftead of this fafhion, they variegate their faces with ftrokes of white fhell-lime. Their apparel confifts only of a fmall bi: of cloth wrapped round their loins, and another over their fhoulders ; they fometimes wear their hair tied on the crown of the head. To defend their heads from the violent a£)ion of the fun, they have invented feveral forts of covering for that part. That which it moft ufed by the men Americ/ peared. oW/c //urn /I (•/•(>/ //le 0.iy/t////^ff. American Islands.] is • round fillet, adorned with feathers } and by the women a ftraw bonnet that bears fome refemblance to a Scotch one. Many of the men wear a ring about two inches thick, ftrong, and curioufly plaited of grafs, and fitted clofe round the head j being likewife ornimented with the long feathers of the man of war bird { others wear huge bufhy caps of brown gull's feathers : befides this, fome alfo wear a hoop of wood, decorated with the feathers of the gannet. By the moft exaiSt calculation, the inhabitants of this ifland do not amount to above feven hundred, and the number of temales amounts in no proportion to that of the males } uniefs we fuppofe that many of the former were reftrained from appearing, during the (lay of our voyagers upon the ifland. That this was the cafe, however, is probable, though the men difcovered no figns of a jealous difpofition, nor the Women any fymptoms of a fcrupulous chaftity. Such of the latter as appeared are faid to have been very liberal of their favours. It is conjedured by the na- vigators, that all the married and modeft females had concealed themfelves in the recelTes of the ifland ; and what ftrengthens this fuppofition is, that many of the inhabitants, inftead of huts, retire during the night into caves, which are very common in the lava currents of all countries where an eruption of any volcano has happened. The few women that ap- peared, are faid to have been extremely lafcivious. Their houfes are low wretched huts, conftrufled of fticks fet upright in the ground, at fix or eight foot diftance, and being bent towards each other at the top, ■re there tied together. To thofc flicks others are failened horizontally, and covered with leaves of fugar- cane. The dimenfions of the hut in the middle are greater than at the ends { and in this part is the door- way, formed like a porch, and fo low and narrow, as juft to admit a man to enter on all fours. The Jargeft of the hovels that were feen, feemed not to be mou than fix foot long, eight or nine foot high in the middle, and three or four at each end } the breadth, at (b« different places, being generally the fame as the height. The natives appear to be of a mild difpofition, and hofpitable, but much addi^ed to thieving. No kind of mufical inflruments was feen among them. Their offenfive weapons are (hort wooden clubs, and fpears about fix foot long, crooked, and armed at one end with pieces of flint. They have likewife a weapon made of wood, and fhaped like a pointed battledore. Only three or four canoes were feen in the whole ifland, and thofe very mean. They were conflruded of many pieces of wood, fewed together with fmall cord, each piece not mors than four or five inches wide, and two or three foot long. The length of the canoes is about twenty foot. They feem not to be capable of carrying more than four perfons, and are furnifhed with out-riggers or balances made of three (lender poles. Each of the men works it with a pad- dle, the blade of which i: compofed of feveral pieces of wood. The iniiabitants of this ifland have a king, whom they flyle arcr, or hareekee. He wore about his waift No 5+. GENERAL TRAVELLER. 647 a piece of cloth made of the mulberry bark, quilted wiih threads of grafs, and ftained yellow with tur- meric : his head was covered with a cap of long , (hining black feathers, Thofe were all the marks of diflintSion which he polTeired ; for the people feemed to pay him but a fmall degree of homage, and the poverty of the ifland could not admit of any fpiendor. Concerning the religion of thofe people none of the late navigators received any information ; and with refpeA to what is delivered on this fubje£l in the voyage of Roggevein, the detail is blended with fo many circumftances which have been difproved, that it is hardly entitled to the fmalleft degree of credit. THE MARQUESAS ISLANDS. " The Marquefas confift of five iflands, viz. La Magdalena, St. Pedro, La Dominica, Santa Chriftina, and Hood Iflands, occupying one degree of latitude, and half a degree of longitude. They were all dif- covered by Mendana, a Spaniard, in 1597, except the latter, which was firfl defcried by captain Cook, in 1774. La Magdalena is about five leagues in circuit, it is fuppofed to lie in 10 deg. 25 min. of fouth latitude, and in 138 deg. 50 min. of well longitude; being only f-en at the diftance of nine leagues. La Dominica, called by the natives Hiievaroa, it t mountainous ifland, about fifteen leagues in circum- ference. The north-eaft part is fleep and barren ; but farther to the north are fome valleys covered with trees, among which a few butts are fcattered. Here are many rocks (hooting up in the form of fpires, and in the center of the ifland the.e are feveral excavated, as if they had fuffered violence from volcanoes and earthquakes. The whole eaftern fide is one continued rock, of great height, and almoft perpendicular, form- ing a (harp ridge (battered into fpires and precipices. St. Pedro, called by the natives Onateyo, lies about four leagues and a half fouth from the eaft end of Do- minica. It it of a moderate elevation, and about three leagues in circuit. St. Chriftina, named by the natives Waitahoo, is the moft weftcrly of the clufter, and lies under the fame parallel with the preceding, in 9 deg. 55 min. of fouth latitude, and 139 deg. 8 min. weft longi. tude. It is about feven or eight leagues in circum- ference. A narrow ridge of hills of confiderable height ftrikes from north to fouth the whole length of the ifland, and is joined by other ridges rifing from the fea by a gradual afcent, and interfperfed with deep valleys, which are enriched with feveral ftreams of excellent water, and adorned with fruit and other trees. Under the mould, in thefe valleys, were found feveral volcanic productions, or different kinds of lava, fome of which are full of white and greenifli (hells. Hood ifland is the moft northerly of the clufter, five leagues and a half diftant from the eaft end of La Dominica. According to Captain Cook, the inhabitants of thofe iflands in general are the fincft race of people in the 7 Y South 1 ' !'■'• I 54^ T H M N America.] Ambrk South Sea i being in Tynimetry of fliipe^ and regularity of feature!, perhapi fuperior to all other niitioni. The men are from five foot ten to five foot fix inchei liigh, and the women inferior in ftature. They are of a tawny complexion, with countenances pleafing and open i but their eyes not fo lively, nor their teeth fo good, at thofe in many other countriei. Their hair ii of many colours, but none red. Some have it long, but the mod general cuftom it to wear it (hort, except a bunch on each fide of the crown, which they iie in a knot. The men wear no other drefr but a fmall bit of cloth about their loint, and their bodiei are almoft covered with punAurea, which are difpofed with great regularity. No pundures were obferved upon the women, and they wear a piece of cloth made of the mulberry bark, which covered them from the ihoulders to the knees. The principal head-drefs of thofe iflanderi it a fort of broad fillet, curiouHy made with fibrci of the hufti of cocoa-nuts. In the front is fixed a mother- of-pearl (hell, wrought round to the fize of a tea- faucer ; before which are placed, alternately, a fine tortoife-fltell of fmaller dimenfions, perforated into curious figures, with another round piece of mother- of-pearl, about the fice of a half-crown, and alfo a fecond piece of perforated tortoife-fliell, of the fixe of a (hilling. Befides thofe ornaments in the front, fome are likewife decorated in the fame manner on the fides ( and all arc adorned with the tail- feathers of birds, placed in an upright direction. They wear a fort of necklace made of light wood, the outer fide of which is covered with fmall peas, fixed on with gum. They alfo wear fome bunches of human hair faftened to a firing, and tied round the legs and arms. Thefe dif- ferent ornaments, however, arc feldom wore at one time by the fame perfon, and that which they moft efteem il the bunch of hair, though it be frequently infcfted with vermin. From the particular predileAion for thofe ornaments, the voyagers think it is probable that they are either wore in remembrance of their deceafed relations, or are the fpoils of their enemies. All the inhabitants have their ears pierced, though none were fcen with ear.rings. The weather being extremely hot while the voy- agers were in thofe iflands, the inhabitants cooled themfelvea with large fans, which were made of a kind of tough bark, or grafs, firmly plaited, and fre- quently whitened with (hell lime. Some ufed the large leaves of a fpecies of palm, in the manner of an umbrella. Their dwellings are in the valleys, and on the fides of the bills near their plantations. They are built in the fame manner as thofe at O-Taheitee, which will be afterwards defcribed ; but ihcy are much meaner, and covered only wiiii 'iie leaves of the bread-fruit tree. They are commonly ereAed on a fquare, or oblong pavement of ftone, a little raifed above the level of the ground. Of this kind of pavement there is likewife a fmall area adjoining to each houfe, on which the inhabitants fit to eat, and amufe themfelves Their canoes alfo refemble thofe of O-Taheitee, but are not large, and oiie end is generally ornamented 6 with a flat piece of wood, on which the human face is rudely carved. Their fails are made of mats, of a triangular (hape, and very broad at the top. The paddles are of heavy hard wood, fliort, but (harp- pointed, and with a knob at the upper end. I'heir weapons are either clubs, or fpears, about eight or ten foot long, both made of the club- wood, or camarina. They ufe flings, with which they throw (lones to a great diftance, butnot with a good aim. The language of thofe people is faid to approach nearer to that of O-Taheitee than any other dialc£k in the South' Sea, except that they could not pronounce the letter r. No quadrupeds were feen in thofe iflands but hoga and rats. Fowls alfo were obferved, and in the woods were feveral fmall birds, the nates of which are faid to be extremely melodious. The diet of the inhabit- ants is chiefly vegetable, though they fometimcs cat of hogs and fowls, and alfo of fiQi, which fecnis to be very plentiful upon the coaft. Their only drink it water, cocoa-nuts b«ing here very fcarce. Of the cuftoms of the inhabitants in other parti- culars, and of their religion, we have no account ) but are informed that they alfo have a king. THE LOW ISLANDS. Thofe iflands lie between 133 and 134 dcgroes of weft longitude, and between 14 and 19 deg. i 8 min. of fouth latitude. They form a flring of low iflands, connefled together with a reef of coral rocks. Some of thefe are named the Iflands of Difappointment. They were difcovered by commodore Byron, in 1765, and fo named from the (hores aflxirding no anchorage for his (hips. They are fituate in 1 4 1 deg. of weft longitude, and in 14 deg. 10 min. fouth latitude. The inhabitants appeared on the beech bearing in their hands fpears, which are faiJ to have been at leaft fix- tecn foot long. Their manner was hoftile, and feemed to threaten death to thofe who were in the boat, if any of them (hould come alhore. Thefe iflands were obferved to produce cocoa-trees in great plenty, and the coaft abounds with turtle. King George's iflands, confiding of two, lie in 144 deg. 56 min, of weft longitude, and in 14 deg. 28 min. of fouth latitude ; difcovered alio by commo- dore Byron in 1765. The voyagers, upon landingi faw many houfes or wigwams of the natives, which were entirely deferted, except by the dogs that kept a conftant howling all the time the crew were afhore. The wigwams were mean hovels, thatched with cocoa-nut branches, but delightfully fituated in a fine grove of ftately trees, many of which were cocoa- nut, and feveral of a fpecies quite unknown. Clofe by the houfes were buildings of a different kind, which the commodore fuppofes to be burying- places. The fides and top were of ftone, and 'in their figure they bore fome refemblance to the fquare tombs with a flat top, which are in our country church- yards. Near them were found many boxes full of human bones ; and upon the branches of the trees which (haded them, hung a great number of the heads and bones American Islands.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 649 bonei of turtle, with ■ variety of fifli inclored in a kind of bafkec-woric of reedi. On examining thofe, *«iotbing appeared to lemain but the (kin and teeth i the bonei and cntraili feemed to have been extra£lcd, and the mufcular flefli wafted away. The mod eafterly of thofe iflandi, called by the na- tives Tiookea, it of an oval form, and about ten league! in circuit. The iiihabitanti are of a much darker colour than thofe of the higher idand«, and of a hoftile difpofition, which is fuppofed to be the cafe of the inhabitant! of all the low iflands. Their bodies are generally punflured with the rude figure of • fifh. When fome of the voyageri went afhore, the iflanders faluted them by touching nofes, a mode of civility ufed in New Zealand, which is diftant nine hundred leagues. The foil of Tiookee is extremely fcanty, the foundation confifting of coral, but very little elevated above the furface of the water. The other ifland is two leagues to the weftward, being twelve miles in length from north-eaft to fouth-weft, and from three to five miles broad. Pallifer- Iflands, confifting of four, lie in 140 deg. ao min, of weft longitnde, and in 1 5 deg. 26 min. of fouth latitude. The greateft diftance of one from the Dther is about fix leagues. The largeft is feven miles long, and not above two broad. Here alfo the natives were armed with fpears 1 and the voyagers obferved huts, canoes, and places for drying filb. Thefe iflands are fuppofed to be the fame that were vifited by Roggewein in 1723, and which he named the Pernicious Iflands. on account of lofing one of bia fliips in this dangerous navigation. Dog-Ifland lies in 15 deg. 11 min. of fouth lati- tude. It was difcovered by Le Mair and Schouten, in 1616, who gave it this name from having feen three Spanifli dogs on the ifland. Queen Charlotte's Ifland is fituated in 19 deg. 18 ■Din. of fouth latitude, and in 138 deg. 4 min. weft longitude. It waa difcovered by captain Wallis in 1767. Here ia good water, with plenty of cocoa- nuts, palm-nuti, and fcurvy-grafs. The inhabitants are defcribed to be of a middle ftature, and well made, with dark complexions, and black hair, which hangs loofe over their flioulders. They cover them- felvet with a kind of coarfe cloth, or matting, which they fatten about their middle. Lagoon-Ifland, difcovered by captain Cook, lies in 139 *'^E* ^^ *"'**■ '*^ ^'^'^ longitude, and in 18 deg. 47 min. fouth latitude. It is of an oval form, with a lake in the middle, which occupies the greater part of it. The huts of the natives were feen under fome clumps of palm-trees, which formed very beautiful groves. The inhabitants of this ifland are tall, and their weapons are poles, or fpikes, about twice the length of themfelves. About feven leagues north-weil of the preceding, lies Thumb-Cap, a low, woody ifland, of a circular form, and not much above a mile in compafs. Here was no appearance of any inhabitanli, but the ground was covered with verdure of diflFerent hues. Bow-Ifland is fituated in 141 deg 12 min. of weft longitude, and in 18 deg. 23 min. fouth latitude. It waa difcovered in 1769, by captain Cook, who gara it this name on account of its Angular figure. It ap- peared to be about three or four leagues long, iiaving at each extremity a large clump of cocoa-nut trees, and the greater part of the arch being covered with trees of various kinds. From the fmoke that was feen in different parts, it is fuppofed to be inhabited. Twenty- five leagues weft of Bow-Ifland are fituated the Groupes, which are long narrow ftrips of land, running in all direAions. Some of them are ten miles, or upwards, in length, but none more than a quarter of a mile broad. They abound in trees of various kinds, particularly the cocoa-nut, and are inhabited by peo- ple who appear to be well made, and of a brown com- plexion. Moft of (hem carried in their hands a flender pole, about fourteen foot long, pointed like a fpcar, and likewife an inftrument fhaped like a paddle, about four foot long. Their canoes were of diflFerent fices 1 fome fo fmall as to carry only three perfons, others fix or feven, and fome of them hoifted a fail. BIrd-Ifland, fo named by captain Cook on account of the great number of birds feen upon it, is fituated in 143 deg. 35 min. weft longitude, and in 17 deg. 48 min. fouth latitude. It is about four miles in cir- cumference, with a piece of water in the middle, but no inhabitants were obferved. Forty-five leagues farther, weft-by-norlh. Ilea Chain- Ifland) which feemed to be about fifteen miles long, and five broad. It had the appearance of being a double range of woody iflands, joined together by reefs, fo as to compofe one ifland, of an oval form, with a lake in the middle. Upon it were woods of large trees, whence iflued a fmoke, that aflTorded pre- fumption of its being inhabited. Captain Wallis, who difcovered this ifland, faw likewife others, which he diftinguifhed by the following names, vie. Whit- Sunday, Egaont, Glouceiler, Cumberland, and Prince William-Henry. Befidea thefe. Captain Cook difcovered other five, which he named Refolution, Doubtful, Furneaux, Adventure, and Chane. South-eaft of the preceding lies Ofnaburg Ifland, called by the natives Maitea, and difcovered by Cap- tain Wallis in 1767. It is a high round ifland, not exceeding three miles in circuit. Some parts are only naked rock, but others are covered with trees. Pitcairn- Ifland is placed by Captain Carteret, who difcovered it in 1767, in 133 deg. at min. of weft longitude, and in 15 deg. 1 min. fouth latitude ; but Captain Cook could not fall in with it in 1773. O-TAHEITEE. ' O-Taheitee, called by Captain Wallis, King George the Third's Ifland, lies in 149 deg. 13 min. of weft longitude, and in 17 deg, 46 min. of fouth latitude, being about forty leagues in circumference. This ifland confifts of two diftin^l kingdoms, united by a narrow neck of land. The larger of thefe is called by the natives Tierrabou, or O-Taheitee-nue, and the fmaller, Opourconu, or O-Taheitee-ete. I'his ifland is flcirted With a reef of rocks, which af- ford a moft beautiful profpeft. From the top of thefe, to I 6jO T H B M G to the diftincc of three milei from the Aon, !t ii level, and covered with fruit-trcet of various kJndi > but within thii boundary it rifei into lofty hilU, that ■re covered with wood, whence fcveral large riven derive their fource. On the declivity of the hilli are planted, in row*, the bread-fruit and applC'trrck i and the cocoa-nut and plantain, that require moifture, are cultivated on the level ground, which it every where rich, and producei plenty of graft, but no under- wood. Even on the topi of the mountaine, in fome parti, vegetation ii faid to be luxuriant. The ftonei on thii ifland have univerfally the ap- pearance of being burnt i and the opinion of iti hav. ^ng been produced by fubterraneout fire, it rendered the more probable, ai Mr. Forfler obferved a rock of the bafaltea, which ii generally fuppofed to be the produAion of volcanoes. Though thii country lies within the tropic of Capricorn, yet we are told that it ii one of the moft healthy, at well at delightful fpoti in the world. The heat ii not oppreOive, and the air ii fo pure, that frefh meat will keep very well for two dayi, and iifh one day. The windi do not blow GonAantly from the eaft, but generally a pteafant breeze from eaft to fouth-fouth-eaft. The earth here producei a variety of excellent fruit*, almoft without any culture { fuch as the bread-fruit, cocoa-nuti, bananas of many forts, plan- tains, potatoes, yams, a fruit known by the name of jambu, and rec.'toned moft delicious j fugar-canes, which the iababitants eat raw, ginger, turmeric, a root of the falop kind, called by the natives pea i a plant called etbee, of which the root only is eaten i a fruit which grows in a pod, like that of a large kid- ney-bean i a tree called wharra, that produces fruit refetnbling the pine>apple ; a fhrub called nono, an- other named theva, with the morinda, which alfo yields fruit s and a fpecies of fern. Befidcs thofe, there is a great number of other plants,, among which is the Chinefe paper mulberry-tree, of the bark of which the natives make their cloth. Here is alfo a fpeciei of fig, the branches of which bending down, take frefli root in the earth, and thus form a congeries of trunks, which being very dofe to each other, feem as one trunk, and meaftare not lefs than fix yards in circum- ference. There are no quadrupeds in the ifland but hogs and dogs, except rats t for the latter of which, we are told, the inhabitants have fo great a regard, that they will not kill them. But Captain Cook having turned loofe fourteen cats, the number of thofe vermin will probably be foon reduced. Here are domeftic poultry, as in Europe, with wild ducks, green turtle-doves, and large pigeons, of a deep blue plumage, and excel- lent taAe. There is a fmall kind of paroquets, re- markable for the mixture of blue and red in their fea- thers s and another fpecies of a greenifh colour, with a few red fpots. Here is a king-iifher of a dark green, with a white neck, variegated by a collar of the for- mer hue I alfo a large cukoo, and a blue heron. The fruit-trees abound in a variety of Imall birds, that have a very agreeable note. By the account of Aitourou, a aative, who embarked with M. de Bougainville, there N [Amehica. are on the (here of the ifland (t»ht,kt*, the b!ie of which is mortal > but none of thofe sppe.ir to have been feen by any of the voyagen. Excellent fifh of various kinds is in great plenty, to catch which is the chief employment of the nativei. The inhabitants of O-Tahrjtee are of a {rood fix- ture, and well-made. The common Hze of the men is from five foot feven inches to five foot ten. The tailed man feen by cspisin VVallli meafured fix foot three inches and a half: and captain Coolc, in his fe- cond voyage, defcribes the king of the ifland to be of (he fame height. The women in general are much fmaller, efpccially thofe of the lower rank, which is imputed to their early and promifcuous intercourfe with the other fex i but fuch of the females as are not fo diflblute are above the middle Aature of Europeans. Their nofes are fomewhat flat, and their mouths ra- ther large { but their teeth are fine, and their tyes, which are black, remarkably full of expreffion. The moft common complexion is a pale brown, but the men that are accuftomed to go upon the water have a colour more red. In the children of both fexes the hair ii generally flaxen ( but in adults it is often of other colours. According to the accounts of all the voyagers, they are a very comely people, and particu- arly graceful in their motions. Both fexes ftain their bodies in a manner which they call tattowing. Their loins, and the hinder part of their thighs, are marked very thick, with black line*, in various forms, which are made by perforating the fltin with the teeth nf an inftrnment fomewhat refem. bling a comb, and rubbing into thepun£lures a kind of pafte, compofed of foot and oil, which leaves an in- delible ftain ; but none undergo this painful operation before they are twelve years of age. A few men, who apppeared to be of fuperior rank, had their legs marked in chequers by the fame method. The drcfs of thofe iflanders confifts of two pieces of cloth. One of thofe, which is fitted with a hole in the middle, to put the head through, hangs down from the Ihoulders before and behind, to the mid-leg. The other, which is between four and five yards long, and about one yard broad, they wrap round the body in a carelefs manner. The drefs of the better fort of wo- men confifts of three or four pieces of cloth ; one of which, about two yards wide, and eleven long, thoy fold fcveral times round their waift, fo as to king down like a petticoat, as low as the middle of thi: leg. Their cloth is not woven, but is made of the inner bark of a fhrub, macerated and beaten together, and very much refembling coarfe China paper. Its texture difpofing it to be injured by rain, in fuch weather they cover themfelves with malting. Their ornaments are, feathers, flowers, pieces of fhells, and pearls i the latter of which are worn chiefly by the women. Their dwellings confift only of an angular roof, re- fembling that of the thatched houfes in England, not quite four foot (rqm the ground, erefled over a fpace in the form of an oblong fquare, and fupported by three rows of pillari, one on each fide, and another ia American Islands.]. GENERAL TRAVELLER. d5i in the miildlt. The materials of the thatch are paltn- leavrs, and the floor is covered with hay, over which they fprcad mail. The fise of (he (hcd ii proportioned 10 the number of pciiuns in the family. But though thit be the general form of their awel- lings, a few, conflrudlcd lor greater privacy, are in- clofed with a wattling of reedi, connected together by tranfyerfc pieces of wood. The entry to this kind of houfes is by a hole, which they fomctimei clofe with • board. Almoft the only furniture in thefe ere£)lons ii a lew blocks of wood, which they ufe as pillows, their ordinary apparel alwayj ferving them for a cover in the night. Some, however, .ire furnifhed wi^h a ftool, which is appropriated folely to the ufe of the mafter of the family, Thofe houfes are all built in the wood between the fea and the mountain i and, unlefs It rains, are ufed for no other purpofe than rcpofing in the night. The general cuftom is, for the mafter and his wife to deep in the middle { round them are ranged the mar- ried people i in the next circle the unmarried women; from whom, at a little diftance, lie the unmarried men ; and in the extremity of the flied the fervantt ; in fair weather the latter fleep in the open air. They commonly retire to reft about an hour after it ii dark. Their candles are made of the kernels of a kind of oily nut, which they flick one over another on a flccwer. They burn a confiderable time, and afford a pretty good light. The food of the common people connftt entirely of vegetables ; but the better fort eat of hogs, dogs, fowls, and fiOi I and the appetite of all is voracious. In ge- neral, their principal fupport is the bread-fruit, of which they make three forts of diflies, by putting to it water, or the milk of the cocoa-nut, then beating it to pafte with a (lone, and afterwards adding ripe plantains, )>ananas, or a pafte compofed of all thofe ingredients, that has undergone a fermentation, and diftinguiflied by the name of mahie, in the making of which they are fuperftitioufly attentive that no perfon touch it. The flefh of dogs, which have been fed upon vege- tables, is here preferred to pork, but that of the fowls is not well tafted. They generally eat the fma!ler fifh raw i and every produce of the Tea, even that which is called blubber, they devour with great falisft£lion. They kill the animals they intend for food, by fuffbcating them, which is done by ftopping the mouth and nofe with their handt. They next finge off the ha^r, by holding the animal over afire, and fcraping it with a fliell. In order to drefs their food, they dig a pit about half a foot deep, and two or three yards in circumference, the bottom of which they pave with large pebble (lones. Here they kindle a Are, by rub- bing the end of one piece of dry wood againft the fide of another ; uflng for fuel the fame materials, with leaves, and the hufks of cocoa-nuts. When the flones are fufficiently heated, they remove the embers, covering the flone* with a layer of green cocoa-nut leaves, and wrapping up the meat that is to be dreffed in the cover It with the hot ember, over which art laid ■ bread, fruit and yams, alfo wrapped up in the leavm of the plantain, This being covered with the remain- der of the embers, and fome hot ftones, to which an added fome Iraves of the cocoa-nut tree, the whole it overfpread with earth. They are totally unacquainted with the method of boiling water, having no veffels among them that wjl bear the (ire, Inftcad of knives, they carve their meat with (hellit which they are faid to ufe very dexteroufly. The com- mon fauce to their food is falt-water, which thofe who live at a diftance from the fea keep in large iiamboot fur the purpofe. Another f.)uce likewife frequently . ufed, is made of the kernels of cocoa-nuts, beaten up with fome fait water, and wrought into the con- (iftpnce of butter. Their gener.il drink is water, or the milk of the cocoa-nut. They have a plant called ava ava, from which is procured a liquor of an intoxicating qua- lity ; but this they ufe with great moderation, and (hewed a diflike to all the (Irong liquors with which they were prcfented by. the voyagers. Except in wet weather, they always eat in the (hade of a fpreaJing tree, with no other accommoda- tion than broad leaves fpread upon the ground. The men and women eat feparately, and always alone, or with no more company than a (ingle gueft. If a perfon of rank, he is conftantly fed by his women, who feat themfelves round him. Be ore he begir" his meal, he wa(hei his mouth a'.id h .ds, and thi. operation he frequently repeats during the time of the repaft { often drinking a fmall quantity of fait water, either out of a cocoa-nut (hell, in which it is placed by him, or out of the palm of his hand.' He concludes his repaft by Tipping a quantity of bread-fruit pounded, and mixed with water, till it is brought to the confidence \.f an unbaked cuftard. He again wa(hes his mouth and hands, and the difhes are removed by his attendants. The quantity of food which thofe people eat at a meal is prodigious. Captain Cook faw oiie man devour two or three (i(he» as big as a pearch ; three bread-fruits, each larger than two (ids ; fourteen or fifteen plantains, or bananas, each fix or feven inches long, and four or five round, with near a quart of pounded bread-fruit. The women not only eat apart from the men, but have their victuals feparately prepared by i)oys kept for that purpofe, and by whom they are attended at their meals. After meals, and in the heat of the day, the mid- dle-aged people of the better fort generally fleep. Thofe of a greater age are lefs drowfy, and the younger are kept awake by their natural fprightlinefs and aiSiivily, Iii general, however, the people are greatly difpofed to indolence, taking very little exer- cife, and having no orcalion for labour, Notwith- ftandihg this way of life, it is obferved that thofe amongft thetn who fleep in open huts, are remarkably healthy and vigorous^ The moft frequent dlfeafei in the ifland are colics, and cutaneous eruptions of leaves of the plantain. Being placed in the pit, (hey the leprous kind, BotB which it probably owing to No, 54. 72 their 65a THE MODERN. [AMtlllCA< thfir intcnpciuicc in eating. Coughi *re ilfo not unknown, And fomt of thofe who fare the moft luxuriouOy are fHbjcA to an arthritic inflammation of their lege. The general method ufed to reftore the ficic to kealtb) U by pronouncing a fee form of word*, after which the cxorcift aj>pli«t the Icavci of the cocoa- tree plaited, to the eBtremiiiei of the patient. With the cute of weundi, however, they feem to be better ac- quainted. The venerral difcafe it f Banks and his vifitants, the laHy, whofe name was Oorattooa, ftepped upon them, and taking up her garments all round her to the waift, die with an air of great fimplicity turned about three tin^^. wificb having done, (he dropped the veil. Three othe^ pieces being fpread, fhe praAifed the fame cerem(^ny ; which (he alfo repeated with the three remaining pieces. The cloth wu then rolled up, and delivered to Mr. Banks, as a prefent from the lady, who, with her attending friend, came up and faluted (lim. Thofe iQandert waOi their bodies three tjmes a-day, and are very cleanly Iri their cloaths, which are ge- nerally perfumed. Both fexe* alfo are remukably expert at fwimming, to which they are accuftomod from their childhood. One of thq mpft common di- verlions is wreftling, belTdei which they have mufic, ditncet, and fliootiiig with the bow, as well as the exercife of throwing a lance. With the bow they ilioot not at a mark, but for difiance i and with the lance, the reverfe. This weapon is about nine foot long ; the mark is the bowl of a plantain, and the diftance about twenty yards. Their flute hat only two (lops, and therefore found nq more than four nptes by half tones. It is founded as the German flute, only the performer, iuflead of applying the in- flrument to his mouth, blow* it with one noftril, flopping the other with hii thumb. To the flop* they apply the fore-flngcr of the left hand, and the middle Anger of the right. Thofe flute* are made at hollow bamboo, about a foot long. They have alfo a kind of drum, made of a hollow block of wood of a cylindrical form, folid at one end, and covered at the other with (hark** flcin. Thi* inftrument i* beaten with their hand> inflead of flicks. Both the flute and drum are accompanied with fong*, which are generally for the moft part extempore, and in rhime. One of their dance* is called timmdii, and it per* formed by eight or ten young girls, who are in* duflrioufly taught it from their childhood. It con- fifts of the moft lafcivious attitude* and geftures, ac- conpanied with the groflieft language \ but the rrgu* larity of their motions are faid to be hardly inferior to that of the beft performers upon the flagcs of Eu- rope. A confiderable number of the principal people of 0-Taheitee have formed themfelvea into a fociety, in which all the men and women are common to each other. In this infamous aflembly, which is diflin- guiflied by the name of Arreoy, the paiSons are flu> dioufly excited in the moft indelicate and brutal man- ner, and indulged to the greateft excef*. If any wo- man fbould prove with child by thi* promifcuous commerce, and flte cannot procure a man to adopt ilie infant a* hi* own, flie inhumanly fmother* it aa foon a* it i* born. But fliould any man be found to co-operate with the mother in rcfcuing a child from death, they are henceforth excluded from the focitty, and conficiered a* man and wife, the woman being ever after diAinguiflied by the appellation of whaHHcwiuw, or, *' bearer of children," a* • term of reproach. Notwithftanding the extreme depravity of thofe af- femblies, wc are informed that the member* of them enjoy fcvcral privilege*, and are greatly refpcdied in all the Society- ifland*, a* well a* at O-Taheitee. It i* obferv-d, that the government of O-Taheitee bears fame r>...:mblance to the ancient feudal fyftem in Europe, the people being diflinguiflied into four order*. The firft of thofe, named Earee-rahia, anlwen to that of king{ the fecond, or Earee, to that of baron i the third, termed Manahouni, cor- refpondk to the rank of vaflalt and the fourth, or Tow-tow, to th.t of villein. There are two earee- rahias, or king* in the iflend, who are the refpeAive fovereign* of the peninfulat of which it conGfts. Each of thofe i* treated with great deference by all rank* of the inhabitants, but they feem not to be inveftcd with fo much power as is exercifed by the Earees in their fcveral fubordinate diftri^s. Of this clafs there are forty-three in the larger peninfula, who parcel out their territories to the Manahounis, under whom the Towtows, or lower order of the people, cultivate the ground, as well as perform all other menjal fervices. Each of the eareea keeps • fort of court, and has a great number of attendants, confifting chiefly of their relations. In this ifland a child it no fooner bsin than ha fucceedi Amikican Iilands.] general TRAVELLER. 653 fucceedi ro his futhtt't ties ind authoritjr. Thtre- fore when fuch in eveni happcni in the royal f»iiiily« a regent 11 chofen, and ihe fiither, who ii ufually lh« perfon nominaied, rctiini hii power only under that liile, until hit child becofflei of age. The kingi have no military hut, nor any guard for their defence, even the few eaicei that attend them never being feen to go armed. The kings and the nobi- lity have liveries for their fervanti, who wear their falhea more or lefs high according to the rank of their maAer, The fervants belonging to the two former wear this faOi clofe under their arms, and tbofd of the latter round their loini. All marriages are pro- hibited between the children of chiefs and the com- mon people. Adultery is reckoned criminal, and may be puniOted with death by the huiband in the lirft emotion of his ragei but in general tht woman only undergoes a fevere beating, and the gallant paflci unnoticed. Few anions here are denominated crimes, and with refpcA even to thofe, the execution of juftice is not committed to'any particular perfont, every man being allowed to tike vengeance of an oflFender in what manner he choofcs, except in extra- ordinary cafes, whera the chiefs interpofe. When any perfon dies, all the relations imme- diately rcfort to the houfc of the deceafcd, and join the people of the family in the expreffion of their for- row, which is generally tcflified by loud lamenta- tions. Thofe, however, who are in the neareft de- gree of kindred, and are really affeAed by the event, ■re often filent, when the reft are alternately pouring forth paffionate exclamations, and laughing and talk- ing without the Icaft appearance of concern. This inconfiflent behaviour is continued till next morning, when the body is Ihroudcd in cloth, and conveyed to the fea-Ade upon a bier, fupportcd by the bearers upon their flioulders, and attended by the prieft, who having prav-< over the body, repeats hit fentcncet dnringthep.. iflion. When they arrive at the beach, the body it fet down, and the prieft renewing hit prayers, fprinklet with hit hands fome water from the fea towardt the body, but not upon it. It it than carried back to the diftance of forty or fifty yards, and foon after brought again to the beach, where the prayert and fprinkling are repealed. It it thut re- moved backwards and forwards feveral timet t during which ceremonict a houfe of corruption, or tupapow, hat been built, where the body it placed upon a bier, and rcmaint in this fituation till the flefli it wholly wafted from the bonet. The bier it a frame of MTOod, like that on which the fea-bcds, called cots, are placed, with a matted bottom, and fupforted br four pofts, at the height of about four foot from the ground. The body is fi'ift covered with a mat, and over which is laid a white cloth. Clofe by its fide is placed a wooden mace, one of their weapons of war, and near the bead of it two cocoa-nut (hells. At the feet, which are placed towardt the open end of the flied, a buoch of green leaves, with fome dried twigs, all tied together, are ftuck in the ground. Near thofe is laid a young plantain-lca{» ufed as the embleni of peace, and clofe I in the mora! 6 I by it a ftone ax. At the open end of the Aitd alfo is hung a great number of palm-nuts, in feveral (Iringf. Without the (hed is ftuck in the ground a ftem of a plantain- tree, about fix foot high, upon the top of which is placed a cocoa-nut ftiell full of freOi water. AgainQ the fide of one of the pofts hangs a fmall bag, containing a few bits of bretd fruit loafted, which is defigned as an offering to their gods. Thofe houAt of corruption are of a fiae proper- tloned to the rank of the perfon whofe body they con- tain. Such at are allotted to the loweft daft are Juft fuflicient to cover the bier, and are open all round. The largeft that wat fecn meafured eleven yardt in length. They are ornamented according to the abili« tiet and inclination of the furviving kindred, who never fail to lay a profufion of cloth about the body, and fometimet almoft cover the ouifide of the houfe. Garlandt of the fruit of the palm-nut, and cocoa- leavet, twitted by the prieft in myfterious knots, with a plant called by them itbH-ni'mirai, appropriated to funeral folemnitiet, are depofiied about the place 1 proviiion and water being alfo left at a little diftance. At foon as the body is depofiied in the tupapow, the mourning is renewed. The women aflemble, and are led to the door by the neareft female relation, who ftriket a fliark't tooth feveral timet into the crown of her bead. Having thut eaufed the blood to flow co« pioully, file carefully receivet it upon piecet of linen* which are thrown under the bier. The other wo- men follow her example, and the ceremony it re* peated at the interval of two or three dayi, at long as the parties are difpofed to tetUfy their forrow. The tears alfo which are flied on thofe occafions, ar« received upon plecei of cloth, and offered ak obla- tions to the dead. Some of the younger people cut off their hair, which it likewife laid under the other offcringt. I'his cuftom is founded on a notion, that the foul of the deceafed it hovering about the place where the body it depofited, and it gratified by fuch teftimoniet of their affeAion. Wbilft thofe ceremoniee are carrying on by the women, the men ftem to be wholly infenfible of their lob, but two or three dayt after, they alfo begin to perform a part. The chief mourner carriei in hit hand a long flat ftick, the edge of which is fet with ihark't teeth. At if rendered frantic through grief, he violently runt at all he ftet, and whom he happent to overtake he firikei moft 'unmercifully with thia inflrument, which often weundt them in a dangeroua manner. The proccffiont continue during five moont at intervalt, which become gradually lefs frequent towardt the clofe of that period. When the time it expired, what remaint of the body it taken down from the bier, and the bonet, having been fcrapcd and wafiied very clean, are buried according to the rank of the perfon, either within or without a morai, which are placet ufed for interrment, at well at for worDiip. If the deceafed wat an earee, or chief, hit (kull it not buried with the reft of hit bonet, but being wrapped up in fine cloth, is put into a kind of box made for that purpofe, which it alfo depofited The mourning theh ceafes, unleft any 654 H M N [America. anjr of Iha women continut to b« iflliAed with the lofii in which cif* ihty wound ihemfelvei occifion- •lly with the tttuk't trcih. The ccrcmoniei, how- ever, do not tcrminttc with the mourning t for priycrt ir« (till repeated by the pried, end offeringi made at the moral. , 8ome of the thinga dcpoGted at iha place of in- tcrrment are cmblcmalleal. For inftancc, a young plantain ia faid to rcprefcni the deceafcd, and a bunch of feather! the deity which ii invoked. The prieft, accompanied by fome of the relation*, who are fur- nifhed with a fmall offering, place* himfelf over* againd the fymbol of the god, and repeat* hi* orison in a fet form, confifting of I'everal fentence* i at the fame time twifting the leave* of the cocoa-nut into various Oiapei, which he afterward* lay* upon the ground where the bone* have been interred. The deity i* then addrefled in a fliriek, which i* ufed only upon ihi* occafion. When the pried retire*, the tuft of feather* is removed, and the provifion* left to putrify, or to be devoured by the rati. The mourning worn here i* a head-drcfs of feathers, the colour of which ii confecrated to the purpofc, and a veil over the face. This habit i* called ttva. On the death of a king, the whole nation appear* in this drefs. The mourning for fathers is very long. The women mourn for their hulband*, but not the l>' braces of her father, produced the thirteen months i which months, in conjunQion with each other, gene- rated the days. By another intrigue which Tettow Matatayo had with Tepapa, they fuppofe fome flars were produced, which afterwards propogated other ftar*. To other fubfequent amour* of the fame partie* they sfcribe the production of an inferior order of deitie*, called Eatuu; fome of which being male, and others female, they alfo became fruitful, and two of them inhabiting the earth, were the parent* of the human race. The iirft man, when born, they fay, wa* round like an apple, but that bis mother with great care drew out his limbs, and having a length moulded him to the prefent form of mankind, fhe called him Eotha, or finiflied. ThisEotha, out of gratitude to his mother for her plaftic art, begot on her a daughter } but afterwards, leaving the embrace* of hi* mother for thofc of hi* own offspring, he begot on the latter many daughters, and at length a fon, who, in con- junAion with his fillers, peopled the world. Their Supreme Being is fuppofed not to have finifli* ed hit labour till he had begotten a fon, whom they call Tane, to whom they d'lteA their worfliipj with- out believing, however, that the good or bad con- dud of mankind here on earth makes them more or lefs acceptable to this divinity. ThL-y believe the exigence of the foul after death, 8 and that various degrees of happincft In prnportion to the rink which individuals hold on the eiiih, will then be enjoyed i but they fecm to have no cuncr))* tion of any future puniOiment. We are, however, not informcil of the idea they entertain refpeiflin^ the nature of his happipefi, whiili it ii probable Ihry fuppofe to confid in *ho enjoyment ol fciilual plearurt's. The pricfthuod feemi to be hrrcJitiry in one fa- niily or tribe, and ii a numcroui body. 'Micir learning confifts in being »ci|uaiii(cd with the names and rank of the diftcrent Euluiii, or I'liburJiiiate di- vinities, and the traditional opiiiiuii:i coiicrrning (lie origin of things which they relate in a phrarci)l(i|{y unintelligible to the common people, whufe aJniira- lion of their knowledge it on this account grraily in- creafcd. The priefts are likewil'e the only perfon* who praAife the medical art, by which, with the exclufive right they have to perform the operation of lattawing, and a fort of circumcifion which the male* undergo, their employment i* lucrative. They are alfo accounted to have fome (kill in altronomy and navigation. It appears from the account delivered by Omai, the native of an ifland adjacent to O-Tahciice, who was lately in Britain, that on fome occafiuns, they facrifice to their gods a human vii5lim. The unlmppy. perfon that is to undergo this fate, it finglcd out by the high piieft, who, after retiring alone into the marai, or place of worihip, and flaying foinc time,, under the pretext of cotiverfing with the great God, comes out, and informs the people that the great god ha* afked for a human facrifice, whom he alfo name*. The word* are no fooner fpoken, than the devoted wretch, who had probably rendered himfelf, obnoxious to the gboftly father, it put to death. The people of 0-Tahcitee ofler up their prayera regularly morning and evening, and praClife man/ fuperAitious ceremonies to conciliate the favour of the evil genii, who they imagine have an influence oa human affairs. On this ifland was feen the figure of a man con« flruAed of bafket-work, rudely made, but not ill defigned. It was fomething more than fevea foot high, but bulky in proportion to its height, and completely covered with feathers. This image was called manioe, and was a reprefentation of one of their eatuas, or gods of the fecond daft. They did not however pay it any divine honours, and feemed to have no vifible objeAof woffhip among them} but both in O-Taheitee and the adjacent iflands, the/ difcover a particular regard for a certain bird, fome a heron, and others a king- fifher, concerning which they entertain many fupcrflitioui notions. The number of inhabitant* in this ifland, accord- ing to Captain Cook's computation, amounts to two hundred and four thoufand, including women and children. THESOCIETYISLANDS. Thefe are a duller of fix iflands, lying near each. other, and which received this general ^n»nie from Captain Amkrican IsLANDj.l GENERAL T R A V E L L F R. IICA. ?l Captiiii Cook in 1769 ( but «mong the naiivri ihcy bcir the iiamci of (.''kit* or Riiie'lcj, Oiaka, lioU boli, Mualiinf. 'I'ubai, iiid M.iuiica, 't'licy Jie fi- tuiud bet >nr liutidfctl an be levelled at one of the company, who was fo much alTefted with the repiefentatlon that (he died tears. Otaha contains nothing remarkable. It lies about two miles from Ulii^ca, like which, it i. inclofed wit'' a reef of coral rocks. Bolabola is fituated north- wed and by wed of O- tahc-itee, about four leagues didant. It is alfo fuiround* cd by a reef of rocks, with feveral fmall iflands. Tubal produces nothing but cocoa nuts, and is faid to be inhabited only by three families. The coall however abounds with fifli, on which account it il frequently vifiied by the natives of the other iflands. Maurica is a fmall ifland, furrounded like the other! with a reef of rocks, and without any harbour for (hipping. In the middle of it rifes a high round hill, which may be feen at the didance of ten leagues, THE FRIENDLY ISLANDS. Thefe iflands amount to more than twenty, exclu- flvc of a number of fand hanks and breakers, with which they occupy about three degrees of latitude, and two of longitude. They are the fame that were named by Tafman, Middleburg, Amdcrdam, Rot- terdam, and Pyldart} and received the general ap- pellation from t : Btitifh voyagers, on account of the amity which feemcd to fubfid among the inhabi- tants, and their courteous behaviour to drangert. Middleburg, called by the natives Ea-oo-whe, ii flxteen miles in length from north to fouth, and about eight miles broad in the wided part. I'he dcirts of the ifland, efpccially on the wed flde, arc chiefly laid out in plantations, the interior parts being little cultivated, though capable of it. The face of the ifland is delightfully variegated with groves of cocoa- nut trees and lawns, and the air is extremely fa!u. briousj but, unfortunately, water is very fcarce. Be- fides yams and bananas, here are feveral odoriferous trees and (hrubs, particularly « fpecies of lemon ) with a few hogs and fowls. The natives are of a middle fizc, well made, and of a clear brown complexion, with fhort frizcled hair. The men in general go almod naked, with only a piece of cloth round their loins. This cloth is of the fame kind with that of 0-Taheitee j but being over- rpread with a drong glue, it refifts the wet. The women cover thcmftlvcs from the waid downwards. They inoftly wear loofc necklaces, confiding of fe- 8 A veral ii;l 6^6 H E M N [America; «eral Aringi of fmall fliells, reedi, fiflies teeth, with » ihell in the middle u large as a crown piece. I'he men likewife often udorn iheir necks with a ftring, from which a piece of mother-of-pearl hangs down upon the breaft Some of the women had their car:, perforated with two hoi*:, ',r. both of which wat f^'ick a cylinder of lortoif.'-fliell, or >one. It was obf«rved, that mofl of ihii people v.^nted the little finger on one, ^nd fprnetimei on both hands. Another fingu;;r:*j' rrr.siked by the voyager,', was a round fpot on each cheek, which appeared to have been liqrnt or bliftered. The women here are faid to be mote refcrved than in tne other iflands. The iflund of Amilerdam, called by the natives Tongotab'i, is about twenty miles long, and thirteen broad, lying fix leagues to the wed of Middleburg, in twenty -one degrees eleven minutes of fouth lati- tude, and inone hundred and feventy-five degrees of weft longitude. This ifland is entirely laid out in plantations of cocoa-nut trees, plantains, bananas, yams, and other roots, with fugar. canes, ind a fruit re- fembiing a neAarine, befides many oti-.ers. The only domeftic in>mals fe^n here wrr: fowli and hogs, the former of which are as b ge as any in Europe, and their flcfh equally (^ood, if not better. The land birds are pigeons, turtle-doves, paraquets, par- rots, bald roots with blue plumage, and a variety of fmall hirds. There are alfo many bats, fome of Which meafured from three to four foot between the expanded wings. The inhabitants are of the common fi?* of Euro- peans, and their colour is that of a lightilh copper. They are well fhaped, have regular features, and are very aftivc. The women in p:irticular are remark- able for mirth and loquacity, but in general they appear to be modeft. The drefs of both fcxes confifts of a piece of cloth or matting, wrapped round the waift, and hanging down below the knees. From the waift upwards they arc generally naked. The praAice of tattowing, or pun(5iuring the (kin, prevails here, as in O-Taheitee. The men are tattowed from the midale of the thigh to above the hips; -ut the women only on their arms and fingers, and but (lightly. 1'heir ornaments are amulets, necklaces, und bracelets, made of bone, mo- ther-of-pearl, torto'.fe-fhells, &c. which are worn by the men ai well ;s women. Thr '.ntter wear alfo on their fingers ne .t rings maa>. ut tortoife-fliells^ with pieces of the fa'.ne fubftance, about the fize of a final' quill, in their cars. They likewife iiave a curiou apron, made of thv out feathers of the co'oa-nut fhell, wrought into various forms. Their clotn and utenfils are much the fame here as in O-Taheitee. Befides a large flute, vf Rotterdam lies in one hundred anJ feventy-four degrees thirty-one minutes of weft longi- tude, and in twenty degrees fifteen minutes of fouth latitude. It is of a triangular form, each fide about four miles in length, and has in the middle ii fait water lake. The produ£iions of this ifland, and the natives, refemble thofe of the preceding, only the people feem to be much poorer in cloathing and or- naments. The ifland of Pylflart is about two mile* in circum- ference, high, ftecp, and barren. About eleven or twelve leagues from Rotterdam lies an ifland, named Amattafoa, near which is another remarkable for a high peak. The former of thofc is fuppofi:' to have a volcano. They arc both inhabited, hu: appear not to be fertile, .;. THE NEW HEBRIDES. Thofe iflands are fituate between one hundred and fixty-fix degrees forty-one minutes ai.d one h-'ndred and fevcnty decrees twenty-one minutes of weft longi- tude, and .ictwec fourteen degrees twenty-nine mi- nutes and venty degrees four minutes of fouth lati- tude 3 extending a hundred an 1 twenty-iive leagues in the dire£iion north-north-weft. anO fouth-fouth- eaft. Some of the mofl northern of thofe iflands Were difcovered in i6o6, by de Quiros, who con- fidered them as part of a fouthern continent. They were next vifited by M, de Bougainville, and after- wards by captain Cook, who gave them the gener.'l name of the New Hebrides. This dufter confifts of the following iflands j viz. Tierra del Efpiritu Santo, Mallicolio, St. Bartholomew, Ifle of Lepers, Aurora, Whitfunude, Ambrym, Immer, Apru. Three Hills, Sandwich, Montagu, Hinchinbrook, Shepherd, Eor- ramanga, Ir-onan, Annatom, and Tanna. Tierra del Spiritu Santo, the mofl weftcMi, is alfo the largcft of thofc iflands, being fixty miles long. The land on the weft fide is high and r.iountainous { but, except the clift and beaches, evrry other part is either American Islands.] GENERAL TRAVELLER. 657 cither covered with wood, or laid out in plantations. The inhabitinti appeared to be numerous. They were Orong made, uf a daric complexion, and had woolly hair. They ufed no covering but a belt round their loins, fro.-n which two flips of matted work hang down to the r kneel, one before, and another behind. .Some of them h^u a bunch of feathers on the top of their head ; others wore a white (hell tied on the forehead} and on their arms they had brace- lets of (hell-work. The next moft conflderable ifland is Mallicollo, upwards of fifty miles long, and near half as much in breadth in the wideft part. It appeared to be fertile and well inhabited. The foulh coaft, which was the part examined by Captain Cook with the greateft atteniion, is covered with luxuriant wood and other produ£lioni ; fuch as cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, bananas, fugar canes, yams, addoes, and turmeric. The domeftic animals are hogs and poultry. The natives of this ifland are defcribed as ugly and ill proportioned, diflfering in every refpeA from the other iflanders of the South Sea. They are of a fhort ftature, with long heads, flat faces, and monkey countenances. Their complexion is very dark, and their hair, which is generally cither black or brown, it Ihort and curly. They wear round their waifts a rope as thick as a man's finger, which is tied fo ex- tremely tight, that their belly protrudes confiderably boih above and below. From this belt a piece of matting hangs down, in the fame way as has been mentioned of the preceding ifland. Many of them paint their faces and breads of a black colour \ and fome wear on their heads a fmall cap of matted-work. They ufe bracelets of black and white (hells, which prcfs the arm fo clofely, that it was imagined they muft have been put on at an ea.-Iy age. Some of the women (fuppofed to bethofe who are married) wear a piece of matting round their waiAs, reaching almoft to theic knees ; but others were ob- ferved to have only a (Iring round the middle \ under which, before, was a wifp of ftraw ; and none of ihe female fex appeared to ufe any ornamenf:, either in their ears, or on their necks and £r>iis. It is here a common pra<^ice, however, to perforate the cartilage ofthe note between the noftrils, and wear in it a piece of white (lone about an inch and a half long, in the form of a bow. The houfes of the natives were generally like thofe in the other iflands ; but fome were inclofed with boards, and had » . one end a fquare hole, which ferved as an entranc*. Their weapons are bows and arrows, with a club of cafuarina wood, about two foot and a half long, well poliflied. The latter they hang on their right (houloer, by a thick rope made of a kind of grafs On the left wrift they wear a circular wooden plate, about five inches in diameter, neatly covered with (traw, which is intended to guard their arm from the violence of the recoiling bow-ftring. As they apply themfelves to agriculture, their food is chiefly of the veget!)ble kind) but they alfo eat of hogs and fowls, and, it is fuppofed, likewife of fi(h. St. Bartholomew is about twenty miles in circum- ference, fituate in fifteen degrees twenty-three mi« nutes of fouth latitude. Aurora prefented to the voyagers the profpeft of a fine beach, and luxuriant vegetation. The ifland .-.ipeared to be woody, and a beautiful cafcadc was feen to precipitate itftif through the foreft. It is upwards of thirty miles in length, but not more than five broad in any part } the midJIe of it lying in one hundred and fixty-eight degrees twenty- four minutes of eaft longitude, and in tiftcen degrees fix minutes of fouth latitude. Whitfuntii'e Ifle lies about four miles to the fouth- ward of the preceding, and is ne.-.'ly of the fame fixe, but appears to be better inhabited, and con- tains more plantations. The Ifle of Lepers, io called by M. dc Bougain- ville, from the number of people that he faw here afflifled with the leprofy, lies between Efpiritu Santo and Aurora, at the diftancc of eight leagues from the former, and three from the latter. It is of an oval form, very high, and about fixty miles in circum- ference. Here were feen many beautiful cafcadcs pouring down the hills. It was obferved, as an un- common ciicumftancc, that in this ifland the palmt grow even on the hills. The natives are of two co- lours, fome being black, and others mobttoes. They are of fn-.all ftature, ill proportioned, and ugly, with thick lips, and woolly hair, which is fometimes of a yellowidi caft. Noni; of the men have any beards. They generally wear fome ornament in their nofe . on their arm, in the form of a bracelet, they carry the tooth of a babyroufa ; and their neck ia orna- mented with pieces of tortuife-fhell. Their weapons are bows and arrows, with clubs of iron-wood, and ilones, which they ufe without flings. Ambrym is fituatcd two leagues and a half from the fouth end of Whitfuntide ifland, and is about fifty miles in circumference. Its (hores are low, but the land rifes by a gradual afcent to a mountain in the middle, whence iflued a great fmoak, which gave the voyagers reafon to conjecture that it was the feat oi a volcano. Apru is about fixty miles in compafs; it of con- fiderablc height, and has an uneven furface, diverfified with woods and lawns. Sandwich is upwards of feventy miles in circuit, and round it arc feveral fmall iflands, to which Cap- tain Cook gave the names of Shepherd's Iflands, Three Hills, Two Hills, the Monument, Monta- gu, and Hinchinbrook. Eighteen leagues to the fouthward of Sandwich Ifland, lies Eorramanga, about feventy miles in circum- ference. The middle of it is fituatcd in one hundred and fixty-ninc degrees nineteen minutes uf ead longi- tude, and in eighteen degreee fifty-four minutes o^ fouth latitude. The natives of this ifland are of a middle fize, well (haped, and have tolciable good features. Their complexion is very dark, and they paint their faces, fome of a black, and others of a red colour. Their hair is fur the moll part trifp and curly. The men wore only a belt about their waift, with a bit of cloth or a Uaf appended. The f;ur w<.."\ien .f' T H B MOD 6i|8 women t were ken were not near fo handfome as ' the other liex. They wore a petticoat, made of the leavei of fome plant. The natives live in houfes covered with thatch, and their plantations, which are regularly laid out, are lilcewife fenced round, Tanna lies fix leagues fouthward of Eorram^nga ; It is upwards of twenty miles long, and about half fo much in breadth. The foil, in fome parts, is a rich black mold} in others it feemed to be compofed of decayed vegetables, and the aflies of a volcano, which was fccn burning wi h great fury. The coun» try is, in general, fo covereii with trees, (hrubs, and plants, as to choalc up the bread-fruit and cocoa nuts. The houfes and inhabitants are thinly fcattered. The plantations on this ifland confift chiefly of bananas, yams, eddoes, and fugar-canes, with a variety of other plants unknown at the Society and Friendly Iflands. The bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and plantains, are not fo good here as at O-Taheitee, but the fugar canes and yams are not only more plen- tiful, but larger, and of fupsrior quality. Here are plenty of hogs, but very few domefiic fowls. The natives are of a middle fize, and tolerably well proportioned, with large features, brnad nofes, ar.d full eyes. Their complexion is a dark brown, and their hair, which is commonly of the fame co- lour, grows to a confiderable length. This the men feparate into fmall locks, which they cue with the rind of a (lender plant ; but the wot^ien wear their hair cropped, as do the boys, till they attain the age of manhood. They carry in the middle cartilage of their nofe a piece of alabailer, two inches lung, in the manner of the natives of A^aljicollo. With a bamboo, or (harp (hell, they make incifions on their iirms and belly, applying to them afterwards a parti- cular plant, which forms an elevated fear in the (hape of the incifions, which are made to reprefent (lowers, or other fanciful (iguies. Their ears are loaded with tortoife (hell rings, and necklaces of (hells hang down on their bofom, They aUo wear bracelets, and iiok jewels i and it was obferved, that the number of thofe ornaments is generally increafed with the per- fon's age. The women here, as in fome others of thofe iflands, perform all the laborious work, the men, for the mo(V part, indulging themfelves in eafe. Their houfes relembie the rocf of a cottage : fome were open at both ends, but others partly clofed with reeds, and all were cove.ed with palm-thatch, A few of them were thirty or fc-rty foot long, and four- teen or f'xteen broad ; but tiie diinenfions of the greater number were much more finall. The mufic of thofe iflanders is faid to be in greater perfeflion than any in the South Sea, though their in- ftruments are nearly of the fame kind; but their wea- pons are inferior in point of neatnefs. Among others they ufe darts, with three bearded edges, which they threw by means of a piece of flifF plaited cord, vibout fix inches long, with an eye in oiiecni., and a knot in the other. The eye is Axed on the forefinger of the right hand, and the other end is hitched round the dart, at the middle. They hold N f America.' the weapon between (he thumb and t!te remaining fingers, which ferve only to give it diie£lion, Circumcifion is praflifed in this iHand, and the in- habitants gave ftrong indication of ihcir enting human ficfh. They cither roall or broil eir viuliialu, like the people of O-Taheitte, having lui vcfli'h in which water can be boiled. They leem to ufe no other drink than water and tliL-juice of the cocoa-nut. They appeared to have chiefs among thcin, but fuch as had little authority. Of their religion nothing could be learned J only every morning at da;-brcalc was heard a (low folcmn fong or dirge, fung on the eaflcrn fide of the harbour, and which laihJ more than a quarter of an hour. As this was fuppofird to be a religious aft, fome of the voy.igers were exciied by curiofity to inform ihemfclves more particularly concerning it; but upon advancing towards the place, the natives crowded about them, and intrcated them with the greateft earncftnefs to return. Their impor- tunities not beinf; much regarded, they at lafl made figns, that if the voyagers pcrfiftcd in their purpcfe, they would kill and eat them ; on which the latter returned to the (hip. On all other occafions, how- ever, the natives conducted thcmfrlves with great ci-' vility. When they happened to meet any gentlemen belonging to the (hip in a narrow path, they always ilepped afldc into the buihes or grafs, to make wa/ for him. If they knew his name,, they pronounicd it with a fmile, which was undcrllood as a falutation i and if they had not fecn him before, they commonly- enquired his name, that they might diflinguilh hint again. Immer is fituated four leagues from Tanna, and it (ho moft eaftern of all thofe Hebrides. It appeared to be about five leagues in circuit, of a coniidcrable height. The moft foutherly of this clufter is Annatom, fi- tuate in twenty degrees three minutes of fouth lati- tude, and in one hundred and fcventy degrees four minutes of eall longitude, twelve leagues from Tanna, ,^ NEW CALEDONIA. This ifland, which received its name from Cap- tain Cook, is the largcli that has been difcovered in the Pac'/ic Ocean, 1 Vw Zecland and New Holland excepted. It is fituatc bei<,vecn one hundred and fixty- three degree... thirty-fcven minutes, and one hundred and (ixty-fcven degrees fourteen minutes of eaft longi* tude, and between nineteen degrees ihlrty-feven mi- nutes and twenty-two degrees thirty minutes of fouth latitude ; being about two hundred and forty mile* long, hut not more than thirty bro-.d in any part. This ifland is beautifuHy divcrlirieJ with hills and plains, and well watered with rivulets, which render it extremely fertile. The winding Itreams, the va- riciy in the woods, with t!;e ilra^rgling villages and plantations, render the whole delightfully romantic ; and this ifland diftVrs from all the others that have yet been difeovered in the South Sea, by being en- tirely df.flitute of volcanic prodiu'lions. Several Several vy'/ ■ a/Wp^a //rman p/ '///,• /tiA^rif/yut/Ai <>/'(_ h./// . '/„„,/ro American Islands.] GENERAL TRAVELLEk. 655 Several new Tpecies of planti were obferved here by the voyagers, bcndea thofe which had been feen in the other iHands ; and alfo a great variety of unknown birdi. Among this clafs is a beautiful kind of parrot unknown to zoologies. The coaft abounds with tunic, but hogs, goats, dogs, and cats, arc animals of which the natives had no conception. The people of this country are of good flature and proportion. Their hair is black, and fo much friz zled in fome individuals as to be almoft wpolly. In others, however, it is long, and they wear >F tied up to the crown of the head, though fome permit only a large luck to grow on each fide, which they tie up in clubs. Some men, likewife, and all the women, wear their hair cropt fliort. Many ufe a kind of comb made of hard wood, trom feven to nine or ten incjies long. Of thofe near twenty faftened to- gether at one end, and fpieading at the other like the flicks of a fan, arc generally wore on the fide of the head by fuch as have their hair of confiderable length. Some had a black cap, (lifF, and of a cy Jindric^l form, which appeared to be a mark of dif- tiniSlion, and to be ufed oply by chiefs and wriors. The men go naked, only tying a (Iring round their neck, and another round their middle, whence hangs • ta\i\\ piece of brown cloth made of the bark of a ^g-iree, but which they wear tucked up as often as |>endulous. Coarfe garments were feen among them inade of a fort of patting, but thofe they never wore except in their canoes, and unemploy.erl. The drefa of the women is a fhort pettlcpat, Rr fringe, confiding of fmall cords about eight inches in length, and faftened to a firing which goei feveral times round their waift. The fringe is formed of a nui^ber of layers^ of which thofe on the outfide are coloured black, the reft being grey. Both fexes hare ear-rings and bracelets, with orna^nents of Ihells and nephritic ftones; and fome had thrpe bl>c)i lines longitudinally from the under-lip to the chin, yvhich had been pun£iured according to the method praflifed at the Friendly and Society Iflands. The women here, as in Tanna, perform every fervile employment, and feem to be held in great fubjeflion. The houfes, or huts, here are circular, refembling a bee- hive in figure, as well as in the clofenefs of iheif texture. They are made of fmall fpats, reeds, &c. and both the fides and roof are CQv;red with a thatch of coarfe long grafs. The fidep are aboi^t a foot high, but the roofs lofty, and terminate in a point at the top ; above which is a poft, generally ornamented with carving and (hells. The entrance to the hut is by a fquare hole, juft big enough to admit a man bent double. In the infide are fet up pods, to which crofs beams being failened, platforms are made. Some houfes have two (loors^ )>o.t|i fpread ' with dried grafs, over which are laid mats for the principal people to fleep or At on. In moft of thofe dwellings was no fire-place, as there being no palTage for the fmoke but the door, they were intolerably TufFocating and hot. It has been conjeflurcd that the fmoke is meant to drive out the mufquetos which fwarm here. Two or three of thofe huts generally fland near each other, under a duller of lofty fig- tiees, whofe foliage ia impervious to the rays of th'e fun. Thofe iree^ are remarkable for Oiooting forth roots from the upper part of thb flem inttt the ground, ten, fifteen, or twenty foot from the trunk. The only mufical inftrument feen here was a kilid ' of whiflle, of a peculiar conRru£lion, It was of brown wood, poliflied, about two inches long, fhaped like a bell, and apparently folid, with ft rope fixed at the fmall end. Two holes were made in it near the bafe, and another near the infertion of the rope, all which had a mutual communication, and by blowiiig the uppermoft, « flirill found, like whiftling, wai produced. Their weapons of war, canoet, and utenfils, werie almoft the fame a* in the other iflandt. The people of this country depofit their d^ad in the ground. The grave of a chief who had been flain in battle refembled a large mole-hill, and was decorated with fpears, darts, paddles, tic. all fluck upright in a circle encompafCng the verge of the grave. The Ide of Pii)ei lies to ihe (buth thread of yarn, being likewirt lied round their waift, Bcfidci thuCe, fome had gorgeti of flicUi hanging round the neck, fo ai 10 reach acrufi the breaft. They paint their bodiei while and red, and draw • circle of red round each eye. Thry have holei In their eari, Sut were not fcen to wear any thing in them. They were fo at- tached to their own ornament! at to prefer them to any beadi and ribboni that were offered them by the voyageri, The bodiei of many were marked with large fcari, apparently occafioned by woundi which they had aflliAed on themfelvei with fome blunt in- ftrument, and which they fignified by figni to be me- morial! of grief for the dead. There wa» no appearance of • town or village in the whole country, and their houfc! are formed with- out any art. They are made of pliable rods about the thickncfi of a man's finger, formed into the fhape of an oven, by fticking the two ends into the ground, covering them afterwards with palm leave! and broad piece! of bark. The door is nothing but a large hole ■t one end. Thofe huts are jud fo high as to let a oian fland upright, but not to admit of his extending on the ground in any dircflion i and under them three or four perfons will deep together, coiled up with their heels to their head. I'owardt the north- ward, as the climate becomes hotter, the iheds were conftru£led much more flighily, one fide being entire- ly open, and none of them were more than four foot high. Thefe hovels are ereAed occafionally by a wandering hord, in any place where they can procure a temporary fubfiftence ; but when they mean to con- tinue only a night or two on any fpot, they feck no other fhclter than the bufhei and grafs, the latter of which is here near two foot high. To fetch their water from the fprings, they ufe a TcflTel made of bark, only by tying up the ends with a withy, which not being cut oflF, ferves for a handle. Another piece of furniture is a fmall bag, about the fize of a moderate cabbage- net, which the men carry upon their b»ck, by a firing that paflles over their heads. It generally contains a lump or two of paint and refin, fome fifli- books and lines, with a (hell or two, out of which their hooks are made, a few points of'darti, and their ufual ornaments. This is an in- ventory of the whole treafure of the richefi perfon a- nong them. Their filh- hooks are neatly made, and fome of them extremely fmall. For ftriking turtle they have a peg of wood, about two foot long, and very well bearded, which fits into a focket at the end of a ftaff of light wood, about feven or eight foot long. To the ilafF is tied one end of a line about three or four fathom in length, the ether end of which is fattened to the peg. I'o firike the turtle the peg is fixed into the focket. One entering his body, where it is retained by the barb, the ftafF flies olf, and ferves fur a float to trace the motion of the fifli, which it alfo contri- butes to fatigue, till thofe who are in purluit of the prey can overtake it with their canoes, and haul it afiiore. Their lines are made of the fibres of a vegetable, and are from the thicknefi of a half inch rope to the finenefi of a hair. They are totally unacquainted with the ufe of nets in filhing. They bake their proviriuni by che help of hot flonei, like the inhabitants of the bouihSea Iflands i and to produce fire, which they do with great eafe in lefi than two minutes, they rub two pieces of wood a- gainfl each other. Th''r weapons are fpears or lances, fome of which have four prongs pointed with bone, and barbed. To the northward the lance has but one point : the (haft is made of cane, very light, and from eight to four- teen foot long, confifting of feveral pieces firmly con- ne£ied together. The points are either of hard heavy wood, or bones of fi(h. The former are alfo fome- limes armed with (harp bits of (helli. The canoes to the fouthward are made of bark, but in the northern parts, of the trunk of a tree probably hollowed by fire. The only tools feen among them were, an adze, wretchedly made of (lone ) fume fmall pieces of the fame fubftance in form of a wedge { a wooden mallet, with fome (hells and fragments of coral. It is difficult to account for the fmall number of the human fpecies difperfed in this extenfive country. If the increafe of the inhabitants is not prevented by fome natural caufe, perhaps it arifes from the horrid iippetite for devouring each other, which prevails in New Zeeland. From the extreme ignorance of the natives, however, with refpefl to thofe arts that are generally found to be more or lefs cultivated by the mod uncivilized people, there is reafon to place them among the lowed of the human kind. The mod fouthern point of land difcovered by Cap- tain Cook, he fuppofes to lie in thirty-eight degrees fifty-eight minutes of fouth latitude, and in one hundred and fifty degrees of ead longitude. To thii he gave the name of Point Hicks, but he could not determine whether it was joined to Van Diemen's land. Some of the Indians here made a fingular ap- pearance. Their faces feemed to have been duded with a white powder, and their bodies were painted with ftreaks of the fame colour which palTed oblique- ly over their breafts and backs, in the manner of the crofs belts worn by our foldiers. Streaks of the fame kind were alfo drawn round their legi and thighs. Each man held in his hand a weapon refembling a fcymeter, about two foot and a half long. The place where the (hip had anchored was abreaft of a fmall village, confiding of about fix or eight houfes; and while the boat was hoifting out, the voyagers faw an old woman, followed by three children, come out of the woods. She was loaded with fuel, and each of the children had alfo its little burden. When (he reached the huts, three more children, younger than the others, came out to meet her. She often looked at the (hip, but expredcd neither fear nor furpriae. In a (hort time (he kinded a fire, and four canoes came in from fifhiiig. The mrn, upon landing, hauled up tiicir boats, and began to drefs their din- ner, without difcovering the fmalled concern at the fight of che voyagers. They all were entirely dcfti- tute of any covering. When f M6 T H M O B N [America. Whrn Cipfjln Cook flrft ItnM it 0<»»ny B«y, in thirty- fnur ilrgriei nf routi) latiturir, ind nut hundicd and lifty two dcgrrri thiriy-fevcn mirmtei ol cift lungiiuilc, two ot ihe ntiivct cinie tow»fdi ihr vrflcl, each urnied with i Itnce about ten font lung, >nd a Ihutt flick which (ppcired lo b« ufed in throw- ing that weapon. Th«y fccmed d«termin«d to ilefrnd the coafl, though the party that landed confifUd of forty perroni. The voyagcri addiefTed ihem by fi^ni for about a quarter of an hour, at Ihe fame time throwing them nails, beadi, and other triflci, wii.. which they Teemed to be much pleafed. The captain then made figni that he wanted water, and endea- voured to convince them that they Oiould fufTer nu harm > but on putting the boat to the (hore, the na- tivei again oppofcd hit landing. One appeared lo be a youth about nineteen or twenty, and the other a man of middle age. The captain having now no other refource, firrd a mufket bctvreen them. The younger immediately dropped a bundle of lancet upon the rock, but rccullc'fling hiiiifelf in an inftant, he fnatched them up again. A ftone being then thrown upon the voyagcri, the captain ordered a mufket to be fired with fniall (hot, whith ftruck the older upon the legs, who immediately ran to one of the huts, which was diflant a hundred yaidi. Imagining that the centeft W31 now over, the voyagers landed, which they had no fooner done than the man returned with a Oiield or target for his defence. Upon hit coming up, he threw at the voyagers a lance, and his companion another, but happily no pi m was hurt by them. A third muflcet with fmall (hot was then fired at the aflaiiaiits, upon which ope of them threw jinother lance, and both immediately ran away. The voya- gers now repaired lo the huts, in one of which they obfetvcd fome children concealing themfelvct behind a (hield and a fmall heap of bark, whom they did not diftutb. At coming away, they threw into the hou!e fome beads, ribbons, pieces of cloth, and fome other trifles, to procure the good-will of the inhabitants when they fhould return ; but took with them the lances which ihey found lying, to the number of a- bout fifty. They were from fix to fil\een foot long, all armed with prongs in Ihe manner of a fifli-gig, each pointed with fiOi-bone, which was very (harp. They were fmeared with a vifcous fubftance of a green co- lour, which Teemed to favour a fufpicion of their being poifoned ; bnt this conjeflure was afterwards found to be groundlefs. The canoes which lay upon the beach were the worft the voyagers had ever feen. They were between twelve and fourteen foot long, and made of the bark of a tree in one piece, which was drawn together, and lied up at one end, the middle being kept open by (ticks placed acrofs. There was feen a tree, the fruit of which refembled a cherry. Only two forts of timber-wood were obferved, both which were fully as large as the Englifh oak, and one of them had a iimilar appearance, The latter of thofe is hard and dark coloured, and yields a reddifli gum refembling fanguis draconis. The other grows tall and Areight, fomething like the pine, but the wood of it is alfo hard and heavy. Here are a few fhrubt, and fcveril kinds of the palm. Mangroves likewid- (-row in great plenty near the head of the bay. The country in general, as far as it waa obferved, ii Itvel, low, and woody. The woods at^oiind wi'h birds of cx« qtrifite beauty, pariicuhrly the pirrot kind. Here ■re alfo crowa eaa^lly of the lame kind as thofe in Kngtand. About the head of the harbour, where are large flats of find and mud, great plenty of WJier- fowl, moAly of unknown fpecies, v/m obTervcd, One of the mod renxrkabic whills, fome of which are fix or eight foot high, and twice as much in circumference. The country is well watered by rivulets and fprings, and the woods confift tiiicily of the gum-tree man- grove. NEW GUINEA, NEW BRITAIN, NEW IRE- LAND, and NEW HANOVER, with other Islands. New Guinea is a long and narrow ifland, very impetfefily known. It was fuppofed to be conneifl- cd with New Holland, until Captain Cook difcovered Ike ftreight which feparatet them. Including Papua, iti norih-vveftern part, it reaches from the equator to the twelfth degree of fouth latitude, and from one hundred and thirty-one to one hundred and fifty de- crees of can longitude, in one part its breadth appears not to exceed fifty miles. When Capt. Cook made the coaftof New Guinea, heobferveda bojy of the Indians, to the number of between ftxty and a hundred, on the ihnre, as they rowed the boat along the coaft, who made nearly the fame appearance as the New Hollanders, being quite naked, and their hair cropped fliort. They No. 5J. were all the while fhouting defiance, and throwing lumclhing out of their hands which burnt cxaAly like gunpowder, but made no report. What thofe fires were, or (ur what purput, but when boiled, is fuperior to the bed parfnip, >nd proves a moli powerful anti- fcorbutic. For every one of thofe cabbages ihcy were obliged to cut down a tree. The navigators alfo re- ceived great benefit from the fruit of a tall tree that refembies a plum, and particularly from that whicli in the Weft j'ndies is called the Jamaica plum. The fTiorc at this pFace is rocky, and the country high and mountainous, but covered with trees of various kinds, fome of which are of enormous growth. Among others the nuinicg-tree was found in great plenty. The nuts were not ripe, and did not appear to be of the oeft fc. , but this circumftance Captain Carteret im- putes lo their gro^ring wild, and being too much in the (hade of the taller trees. Here are many fpecics of the palm, with the bectle-nu( tree, and various kinds of the aloe, befides canes, bamboos, and rat- tans, with many fiirubs and plants unknown to the voyagers ; but no cfculent vegetables. The woods abound with pigeons, doves, rooks, parrots, and a large bird with black plumage, which makes a noife fomewhatlike the barking of a dog. The on!v qua- drupeds fecn were two of a fm?.ll fize, fuppofed to be dogs, which were very wild, and ran with great fwifjnefs. Here alfo were feen centined«, torpions, and a few ferpents ef different kinds, but no human inhabitants. The voyagers, however, met with feve- ral deferted huts, about which were fcattcred fhclls that feemed not to have been long taken out of the Water, Thofe hovels are faid to have been the moft Wretched that the navigators had ever feen. In the harbour of Englifli Cove Captain Carteret took pofTcflion of the country in the name of his Majcfly, and nailed upon a high tree a piece of board, faced with lead, on which was engraved an Englifh Union> with the name of the fliip and her commander, as well as that of the cove, and the time of her coming and failing out of it. About a twelve-month afterwards M. de Bougainville happened to touch at the fame harbour, to which he gave the name of Port Praflin, Here he found part of Captain Car- teret's infcription, which h^d probably been taken down and maimed by the natives. To the animal pro- duflions of the country enumerated by the EngMii: commander, the French officer adds, thr.f five or fix wild boars were feen. They killed fome large pigeons of great beauty : their plumage was green and gold i their necks and bellies of a greenifh colour, with a fmall creft on the head. Here are alfr^ turtle- doves, widow-birds larger than thofe of the Brazils, parrots, and crown-birds. Enormous ants are faid to have fwarmcd in fuch numbers ab/ut the thatch-palm and cabbagi'-trccs, as to oblige the people to quit leveral trtcs after they had felled them. Heie was found a very extraordinary infe£l of the mantis genu;, about three inches long : almofl every part of its hidy is of fuch a texture as to apprar like a leaf, even when clofcly viewed. It has two antennx, and fix legs. Here is a prodigious cafcade precipitated over vaft rocks. While M. de Bougainville remained onfhore, on the 2 id of July, 1768, feveral fljocksof an earthquake were felt, which lafted about two minutes. In the wcrtern part of St. George's Channel lies Sandwich Ifland, on which coaft the Swallow anchor- ed. Soon after ten c;!noes put off from New Ire- lam', with about a hundred and fifty men on board. They exch.'inged fome trifles, but none of them would venture upon the fide of the fliip. One of thofe canoes was not Icfs thin ninety foot long, and formed of a fingle tree. About it were fome carved ornaments, and it was rowed or paddled by thirty- three men. The Indians were black and woolly- headed like negroes, but withojit their flat nofes or thick lips. They were all nnfced, but had ornaments of fhells about their legs and arms. Their hair, as '.veil as their beards, was profufely covered with a white powder. They were armed with fpears and long flicks or poles. They had with then? fome fifhing-nets, which, with their cordage, feemed to be very well made. Having reached the weflern point of New Ireland, a large illand prefented itfelf, to which Captain Car- teret gave the name of New Hanov-.-r. The land is high, and well covered with trees, among which are many plantations. About e'ght leagues to the well- ward appeared fix or feven fmall iflands, which te« ceived the name of Duke of Portland's Iflands. Admiralty Iflands lie in about two degrees eighteen minutes of fouth latitude, and one hundred and forty> fix degrees forty-four minutes of ealt longitude. Be- tween twenty and thirty iflands of great extent are faid to be fcattered hereabouts. The largefl is near lixty miles in length, in the direction of eafl to weft. Capt. Carteret, by whom thry weredifcovered,defcribes them as clothed with beautiful woods, which are lofty and luxuriant, interfperfed with fpots that have been cleared for plantations, groves of cocofi-nut trees, and huts of the natives, who feemed to be very nu- merous. The difcoverer thinks it highly probable, that thofe iflands produce feveral valuable articles of trade, very probably 'fpices, as they lie in the fame latitude with the Moluccas ; and he is the more in- clined to this opinion, as he found the nutmeg-tree on a foil comparatively rocky and barren, upon the coaft of New Ireland, INDEX, I N D E' X. A. ^ByJJit'ia, its fituaiioii Hcfcribed, 126 ,^X /ii'o, the city of, dcfcribeil, 109. Remarks on the anecdote fclatinj; to it, ibid. jtdaman, iHaiid of, dcfcribed, 38 Mniralty iiUni.\, derc;ibed, 668 ^tiia, mount, iis ililliiift regions pointed out, 303 Africa, its fituatiun defcribed, 114. Dillinguiflied into feveral divifions, ibid. Principal iflands on the coaft of, j6i Agra, the city of, defcribed, 57 Agrkuhurt, the higheit veneration paid to it in Chinsi, 10. Annual rolemnities relating to it, 1 1 Air, the town of, in Scotland, (the anc!.:nt Erignne) noted for a treacherous murder of mar>y noblemen and gentlemen, 504 Aix la Chaptllt, defcription of, 215 Akthar, an Indian prince, an account of his military ex- ploits, 67 Albania, defcription of. See Bulgaria. Albuquerque, the I'liiiuj^uefe general, takes two cities, and >lif|iatchi-.s an otFicer in fearch of the Spicc-lflands, 34. Demolifhcs the iipanKh fa£\ory on the ifland of Tydore, ihlil Enjoys the trade of the Spice-Hlands till the arrival of fir Francis Drake, ibid Aldtrnty, defciiptinn of that ifland, 489 Akppa. city o', dtfcribed, ic8 A.cxandria, one of the principal cities in Egypt, a par- ticular account of it, 107 Algicn, a Iketch of the revolution which happened in that govertiment, in 1516, 156 Almond, a river lo called near Perth, memorable for hav- ing two ticighbouring beauties buried on its bank, 519 Alphabet, Chincfe, irregularities relating to it, 18 Alps, the defcription of them, 288 Amazonia, defcription of, 586 Ambiijfailor. the ceremonies attending one at the Turkifli court particularized, 195 Ambopia, the ifland of, defcribed, 32. Cruel proceed- ings of the Dutch there, 35 America, general defcription of, 575 Amphitheatre, the remains of Vcfpafian's defcribed, 297 Author-Hill, a fortification, remarkable for its antiquity, 460 Andros. See Turkijh Iflandi. Anglefca, defcription of that ifland, , ■ • 485 Angola, defcribed, 1 j6 Amiparos, a defcription of that remarkable rock, 187 Anttu:rp, city ol", defcribed, 267 Apollo, ruins of the temple of, in the ifland of Delos, de- fcribed, 186 Arabia, its fituation, defcribed, 92. Towers, moun- tains, riveis, cities, and towns, 97, 93. Soil, pro- duce, trafllc, government, perfnns, habits, diet, di- verfion, and method of travelling, 93, 94, 95. Lan- ;;uage, learning, hiflory, 95, 96 Arhela, fituation, of that territory, memorable for the battle between Alexander and Darius, 99 Archery, the moderti Perlians remarkable for their dex- terity in that ancient exetctfe. Argot, city of, deftribtJ, Arininiiins, account of their religion, Arraciin, a Ikctcli of that kingdom, Arran, ifli of, defcribed, Arfinoe, the prefcnt appearance of that ancient city, Afcenfun, ifl.ind, defcription of. Alia, a general view of that part of the terraqueous globe, 1 Afia Minor, defcribL-d, with its feveral divifions, i, 8,9, 10. Aftatics, their extreme luxury and eflemlnacy accounted for, I Afiali'.Tuihy, it fituation defcribed, 18. Divifion of its territories and provinces, ibid. Ajlroicn, the kingdom of, defcribed, 22. Particularly annoyed by locufts, ibid. A/irohgy, judicial, a favourite fludy among the modern Perfians, 82 AJironomy, much fludied by the Chincfe, 19. The Clii- nefe attend to the liomii'h inifTionaries for the refor- mation of their kalcnda<°, ibid. Atiai, defcription of tjut mountain, 14} 70 '75 81 55 542 123 162 Ava, a flcetrh of that kingdom, 55 Aiigjhurgh, fome account of that city, 222 Aujirian Nelliirlands, a general view of them, 267 — 270 B. Bacchus, remains of his temple in Ionia, 105 Babylon, a copious defcription of that celebrated city, 87 Bagdat, defcription of that city, 98 Bahama, iflands, defcribed, 636 Bajaztl, advances to meet Tamerlane with a numerous army, 24. Is taken prifoner at the battle of Stella, ibid. Is put into a cage, and cxpofed to the ridicule of the fold-ers, ibid. Lingers in captivity two years, and then Deats out his brains agaiiWl the bars of the cage, ibid Banda, the iflands of, defcribed, 32 Bank, at Amfterdam, its fecurity, 256 of Londm, defcribed, 372 Barbadoes, defcilptioii of that ifland, 643 Barbara Fa, the celebrated Turkifli corfair, invited by Se- llm ici ig of VIglers, to aflif^ him againll the Spani- ards, 156. Is rec'-ived by him with the greateft de- monflrations of joy, and lodged in the prince's palace, ibid. Privately aflairiiiates his royal ally, takes pof- feflion of '.he vacant fcepire, and gives his new fubjeifls the moft convincing proofs of the cruelty of his difpo- fition, ibid. Farther particulars relating to him, 157, 158 Bariar^f, general defcription of, 153 — i6o Barra, ifland of, defcribed, v 537 Bartholomew fair, origin of, 375 Bavaria, defcription of that circle in Germany, 224 Bath, defcription of that rity, 357 Beggar's Bujh, a tree fo called in the road from London to Huntingdon, 417. Conjeftures concerning the origin of the name, ibid. Belly-Duff, the tumulus of Macbeth, 517 Belmont, on the borders of Perthfhire, monumental cu- riofities in its environs pointed out, ibid. Belts, thofe made ufe of by the North American Indians in their converfaiicn-pleces, defcribed, 631 Benbecula, ifland of, delcribed, 537 Benguela, defcribed, 135 Berkeley, Sir '"Villiam, particulars relating to his conduit as governor of Virginia, 613, 614 Bermuda, iflands of, defcribed, 635 Bethlehem hofpital, account of that edifice for the recep- tion of lunatics. 376 Bias, the philofopher, remarkaW'" anecdote of him, 104 Bithynia, a view of the ancient and pi ^fent ftate o; that country, 107 Bohemia, divifion of that kingdom, its fitration, rivers, chief towns, &c. defcribeil, 205 Bihcmia::' paiticulars relating to their p'.-fons, charac- ters, diverfions, &c. 206 Bontikoe, Dr. a Dutch phyfician, his op'nioa with regard to the drinking of tea, /^ Borne, ifland of, delcribed, 38 Bofria, See Bulgaria, Bofton, ir. America, defcription of that town 620 Bourboi, thelfleof, defcribeil, 162 Braiiiins, or Braciimans, curious particulars relating to them, 64 Brazil, d:fcription of, 587 BWi/ftt'f//, defcription of, 174 Bridge, a remarkable one in China, ■ 5 London, defcribed, 370 Brunfwick, the duchy of, defcribed, 212 Bulgaria, with all its divifions, defciibed, 167 — 171 Bull featt, the Spanifh one, defcribed, 316 Burials, in Chin.i, conCdercd as matters of the highefV importance, 17 Bute, defcription of that ifland, 542 Caerphilly caftle, in Glamorganfliire, defcription of it, 474 Ciiffiaria, the country of the Hottentots, defcribed, 129 Cairo, the capital of Egypt, copioufly defcribed, 117 — 121 Calumet, or pipe of peace, a defcription of that important inftrument, among the North American Indians, 631 Cambridge, I" N D Cambridgi, account of the colleges !n the univerGty, 411) Cartiil, a particular fpecies of, in China, defcribed, 2 Canada, dcfcriptioii of, 625 Canary Iflands, defcribed, 163 CtmUrkury, the city of, defcribed, 331 Cantm, defcription of that city in China, 6 Capt Brtltn, defcribed, 635 Capt Titon, account of Dutch Settlements there, 13s Caprta, iPe of, defcribed, 306 Cap-ul, a fruitful ifland defcribed, 30 Carlow, in Ireland, county of, defcribed 561 Cartlina, defcription of, 607 Cartbagi, a retrofpe£liTe view of that ancient and very memorable city, 159 Ctyltn, ifland of, copioufly defcribed, 44 Chalcidtmans, curious anecdotes relating to them, 106 Cbaribbit'xRiviAs., the defcription of, 641 Charlti-Tiwti, the capital of Carolina, defcribed, 60S Ciatftutrlh, a (hort defcription of that magnificent llruc- tare, 440 C'/^a hofpital, defcription of, 3K5 Cbtflir, defcription of that uncommon city, 437, 438 ChUbifltr, city of, defcribed, 3^7 Chiti, defcription of, 57(3 China, its fituation and boundaries, pointed out, with a great number of curious particulars relating to pro- vinces, climate, &c. 1 — 12 Chint/t, their perfons, dr^fs, diet, &c. defcribed, 15 — 10 —— — government, the difterent department in a pointed out, 7 ■ — Tartary, defcribed, 20 Chriji'i tiofpital, a fliort hillory of it from its origin, 373 Cireajfu, the kingdom of, defcribed. 23 Climait, peculiarities belonging to that of China, 2 Cleevtt, defciiption uf that duchy, 215 Ctthin-China, defcription of, 5 1 Cat, ifle of (in Scotland), defcribed, 541 C«/«|>i', fome account of that electorate, 219 CtUnfay, ifle of, defcribed, 541 Ctlumius, Chtiflopher, difcovers Jamaica in his fecond voyage to America, 6^g. The property of it granted to his family, ibid. Comes into our poflcifion during the ufurpation of Oliver Cromwell, ibid. Ctmmom, houfe of, modes of proceeding there with re- gard to the bills brought into it 495 Ctn/uciui, a flcetch of his domeftic and religious cha- rafter, 1 7 CoHgt, defcription of it, 136 Ctnnaughl, the province of, defcribed, with its ftfcral diviiions, 571 CnmtCiicul, defcription of, 619 CtnftaHtinopIt, the ancient Dyzantium, particular defcrip- tion of that city, _ 169, 170 Ciplii, curious particulars relating to that fe£t, 125 Cniillirai, the defcriotion of thofe American mountains, 5-6 Ctffi callle, defcription ,if^ 345 Ctrimh, city of, defcribed, 175 Ctrki, county of, defcribeil, 553 — 555 Ctrfica, defctiption of that memorable ifl.ind, 316 Ctvtnlry, curious particulars relating to that city, 409, 410 Courthopt, Cxfar, account of his proceedings in the tad Indies, 3O Crtrfui, king of Lydia, condemned by Cyrus to be burnt alive, 88. baved from the funeral pile by his conqueror, and afterwards treated with paiticular refpe£t by him, ibid. Criirinalt, irregular modes of punifhing them at Siam,54 Crim Tartary, defcribed, 1 66 Crtatia, the province of, defcribed, 204 Crufadii, particulars relating to them, 19S Cucirw-Bujh, at Gotham, the origin of its name pointed out, 443 C'ibo, the ifland of, defcribed, 636 Cyprut, the ifland of, defcribed, 184 D. Danti, a North American one defcribed, 631 Dbiw, particulars of various kinds relating to them, 250, 251, 2S» Daniifcui, defcription of that city, no David, the la(t independent prince of W.dts, 486 Diad Sta, a tradition with regard to its noxious water, exploded, no Dim forcfl, defcription of it, 402 Del Cam, ] Ethiopian!, defciiption of them, 126 Euripus, the fides of that river in the ifland of Negrc- I pont, very remarkable, 188 i Europe, a general defcription ' if, 165 Exhibilioni, theatrical, among llic Chincfc, defcribed, 13 Eyes, foie, a diforder alinod univcrfal an:ong the Hgyp- I t'lns,. , laj I F- I Fops, the celebration of a remarkable one in Perfia de- I fcribed, 80 f Fejlival, I N X. Tifi'ivaU a rtmarli.ible one in Egypt, deferibed, 123 /■/«, tlicii'y ol, ill MoiuCfd, ilclciibedi 146 Filbiils, rciii.iik.iblii ontM in Mbcri "npire, 229 Ciant'i Caufcway, in Ireland, curious particulars con- cerning it, j68 Giirallar, deferibed, 312 Ginf'igt a remarkable plant among the Chinefe, fuppofed to contain the virtues of every other Ample, 5 Cleiciirst the, of Savoy, defcription of thofe immenfe mafTes of ice, 288 Glii^iu; defcription of that city, 509 ^l^oniu.y. curious particulars with regard to its ancient and prefent Ihite, jgi Chuctjitr, hiflorical account of that ancient city, and its cathedral, 402 G'tl'iiiiihejltr, curious anecdotes relating to that town, 416 Greek dutdi., in the I'urkifli empire, particulars relating to it, ,8j Greeks, various particulars conferning them, 177 — 183 Grenada, ifl.iml of, deferibed, 644 GrtenliiH/l, defcriptiun of, 17^. Grtnln^ei; the piovioce of, deferibed, 258 ^uaJatjujie, dcfriiplion of that iO.md, 6^2 Guam, one of the Ladron illands, defcilbed, with its in- hnhilants, 28 QntUerlundf the province of, with its fubdivIGons, de- feribed, 25q Clienif-y, ifland uf, dcfciibcd, 488 Guitilha:t, various particulars relating to it, 377 Guilieti, particulars relating to its fituation, feafons, air , negroes, vegetable produce, minerals nnd animals, 137, ^ I {8. Its goretnnicnt, laws, arms, rt'ligion, marriages, difrafeSiphyliLians, funerals, 139 — 141. Its garrifons, ports, mufic, language, and trade, 142, 143 H. Hefz, a Pcrfian poet, tranflation of one of his odes, 83 J-ialifat, in Yorkdiiie, a remarkable law there with re- gard to thcfi, 455 Hambu'gh, particulars relating to thjt city, 2li llumptsn Court, a fliort rlefcription of that ancient pile, 386 Handfifiing, an ancient cur„,Ti, deferibed 503 fLmver, the duchy of, defciibcd, j.ix N' 55- Hny, ifland of, deferibed, 541 Hiad-drefs, a Chinefe lady's, deferibed, 13 HibriJti, or Weflern Ifles, defcription of them^ 536 H/Ji, curious particulars relating to that burning moun- tain in Inlanil, 249 Heidithurg, remarkable for a velTel of a prodigious fize, 2.9 Helm wind, a remarkable phenomenon in Wellmorland, 462 Helvelians, account of the anclc.it, 287 Hexham, reniark:^ble anecdote of that town, 469 Highlanders, curious particulars concerning them, 524 Huropolis, the ruins of that celebtated city, the capital of Lydia, 102 Hifpaniola, defcription of, 64O Hcamka, a remarkable river in China, called the Yellow Rivtr, a Hjly-Lnnd, (Iriking particulars relating to the romantic expedition to that memorable fpot, 198 Holy-Rood houfe, defcription of that ancient palace in Scotland, 506 Hotlentoti, defcription of their petfons, habits, diets, hunting, fwimming, artificers, and traffic, 130, 131. Of their marriages, 1 33. Of the expofure of their female infants, and fuperaiinuated pertons, ibid. Of their burials, religion, and govenmient, 134, 135 Hudfin, captain, particulars lelating to that advcnturoub navigator, 628 Huifjar;, a general view of it, 201, 202. Provinces contiguous to it, deferibed, 204 Hiingariani, an account of the! ■ perfons, drefs, govern- ment, revenues, forces, mode of travelling, bridges, and religion, 203 Hurlers, the twelve circular (tones in Cornwall fo called, conjeflurcs concerning them, 356 Hymcuus, the hill of, deferibed, 172 I. Jamaict, defcription of, 639 yame!-7own, in Virginia, the firft general alTembly of the Englifh there, 613 'Jampadan, the fitll *own which the Dutch took from the natives of the Spice Iflands, 33 Janifaries, TurkiQi, particulars relating to them, 158 Japaiiefe, defcription of the iflands comprehended under the till' of 25 Java, ifland of, deferibed, 'u.-";.- . 4S- Iceland, defcription of, 249 Ida, mount, in Candia, (the ancient Crete) deferibed, Jerufalem, the capital of the Hoiy Land, a view of it in its prefent (late, 109 Jerfey, defcription of that ifland, 487 India, or Hindoftan, a general defcription of it, 56. The way to it by the Cape difcoveied by the Portuguefe, 34 Indian!, North American, defcription of them, 630 — 635 Indigo, a particular account of that valuable plant in Georgia, 605, 606 Inoculation, the curious mode of it in Hindoftan deferibed, 66 John of Gaunt's chair, a fquare tower on a hill near Lan- cailer, 4S9 Ireland, its fituation, provinces, climate, foil, manufac- tures l^ltcs, bogs, foreft.s, rivers, &c. deferibed, 552 Irene, a Greeic virgin, a remarkable anecdote relating to her, JOO Irifli, their perfons, cloaths, habitations, &c. deferibed, 57'. 572' 573 IJIe of France, defcription of the, 272 Ifpahan, defcription of that memorable Perfian city. 70 Italy, its fituation, mountains, rivers, air, and produce, deferibed, 287, 288, 28l>. Dcl'cription of its fubdi- vifionsi Sivoy, 2go. Piedmont, ibid, Milan, 291. (Jcnoa, ibid. Parma, 2g2. Mantua, ibid. Venice, ibid. Modena, 294. Lucca, ibid. Tufcany, 295. The pope's dominions, 296 — 298. Naples, 299, 300 Italians, chara£ler of them, 301. General biftory of Italy, 30* Jura, the ifland of, deferibed, J4t Ivica, defcriptioa of that ifland, tt2Q St X SP K. X Ss^t 5S7 Kiam, a remarkable river in China, fuppofcd to have no bottom, a Kilitnny, county of, dcfcribed, 562 Kirhnml, a town in Scotland, rcma^'cable for the bury- ing-place of Ellen Irwinc, 503. A remarkable anecdote of that lady, ibid. KnUi, or the golden hen, a Chinefe bird, remarkable for the elegance of its form, and the fplendor of its plum- mage, 2 LadroHt Iflands defcribcd, ^ 25 ' Lama, the great, remarks oii' the adoration paid by the Tartars to that idol, 20 Langaagi, Chinef., obfervatlons on it, 6 Laitiharns, an account of the great feflival of China fo called, 14. Another fellival defcribcd, 15 Laodicta, one of the feven churches, its ruinous condition defcribcd, 100 Liipftg, one of the moft trading towns in Germany, 21 1 Ltuiis, ifle of, defcribed, 536 Ltin/lcr, the province of, defcribed, 562 Libuffa, a Bohemian princefs, remarkable anecdote re- lating to her, 206 Liththcuft, the, in the ifland of St. Agncsi defcription of it, 490 Lima, the city of, defcribed, 580 Limtrici, the county of, defcribed, 558 Limfing, a remarkable burning mountain in China 2 Li/more, ifle of, defcribed, 541 Livadia, the province of, defcribed, 172 Londsn, a copious defcription of 370*~379 Ltndondtrry, in Ulfter, defcribed, {Sti Ulfter) 570 Longford, county of, defcribed, 566 Z«n/ ^oni^ defcribed, 619 Lorttti, defcription of that celebrated city, 296 Lt'di, houfe of, modes of proceeding when bills are brought into it, 496 Louth, county of, defcribed, 565 Low Ijhnds, defcription of them, 648 Lovuer Rhine, defcription of that circle, with the arrh- bifliopricks, &c. contained in it, 218, 219, 226 Zu^^r, Ibme account of that city, an M. Jihijgafcai, iOand of, defcribed, 161 Aiiid degs, a certain fet of men in China fo called, 8 Maatidir, defcription of that celebrated river, 104 Idagillan, employed by the Spaniards to difcover a way to India by the Welt, paffes the Straits in South Ame- ' rica, 34. Is killed, ibid. Mahomet, curious particulars relating to that remarkable impodor, 96, 97 Majorca, fome account of that ifland. Maize, or Indian corn, the cultivation of it in Hampiliire defcribed, Maldiva Ijlandt defcribed, Malta, the ifland of, defcribed, Man, ifle of, defcribed. New 621 48 307 492 Account of their 64s 647 642 614 646 620 162 Meaa, the capital of all the Arabias, defcribed, 92 Merlin^ the celebrated prophet, the fuppofcd place of his buiial, 504 Mq'.incz, defcription of that city, where the court cl Morocco now refules, 146 Ahxuo, Old, ilcfcription of, . 59; Manila, the people of, defcribed, 29. trade, Margaretta, Ifland of, defcr'.bed, Marquefas, defcription of t'. efe iflands, Marlinico, ifland of, defcri'jed, Maryland defcribed, MaJ'afuero, ifland of, defcribed, Majiiihuffets Bay, defcription of, Mauritius, ifland of, defcribed, New, 601 57.7 Milfotd Haven, defcription of. Military drefs, a fnigular one among the North Ameri can Indians, 632 Mill, a curious one for filk defcribcd, 441 Afi.iii, t' i famous Egyptian lake, defcribed, 16 Mtgul, the Great, his ofllcial Juiies as a fovercign patti- cularly delineated, 62 Mtldavia, defcription of. See Bulgaria, Molucca, ifland of, defcribed, 31 Monlferrat, defcription of that mountain, 310 , ifland of, defcribed, 642 Monument, the, defcribed, 371 Morea the, defcription of, 175 Moricci, the empire of, its rivers, mountains, climate, and chief towns, defcribed, 145, 146. Defcription o£ the inhabitants, and of their drefs, 147. Of their' dwellings, entertainments, manner of life, mufic, marriages, funerals, religion, government, trade, &c. I47> 14S Morfi-dttr, a curious American animal, defcribed, 622 Mountains, a chain of very high ones on the eaftern bor« ders of Merionethfliire, called the Alps of Wales, 48 1 Mull, Ifland of, defcribed, 540 Munfter, (in Ireland), the province of, defcribed, 353 — — , (in Germany) the city of, defcribed, 214 Mufa, Manomet's fon, killed at the battle of Stella, 21 Mufquito, curious particulars relating to that troublefome infe£t, 60 N. Nanking, one of the capitals of China, defcription of that city, 6 Naplii, an hiftorical iketch of that city, 301 Naltlla, or Afia Minor, defcribed, 100 Naxos, a remarkable conteft between two fe£t> of Chrif- tians there, 186. A curious female procelCon de- fcribed, ibid. Negroland, defcription of, 144 Ntthtrlttnis, the, (or Low Conntries) particularly con- fidered, with refpeft to its Ctuation, rivers, dykes, arts> 253—257 641 • : 658—664 ■ m 621 668 656, 657, 658 €64* 665, 666, 667 617 668 370 618 38 57S 573 chieF towns, &c. Nevis, ifland of, defcribed. New Britain, defcription fAf New Caledonia, New England, Newfoundland, New Guinea, ' New Hamfjhire, • New Hanover, New Hebrides, New Hollanel, New Jerfey, New Ireland, . ' New River, account of its riffr' '' New Tori, defcription of, Niiobar, ifland of, defcribed, North America, a general defcription of itt North Sea, iflands in, def ribed. North Uijl, ifland of, dwicribed, 537 Norwich, particulars renting to that city and its cathedral, 424 Neva Scotia, defcription of, 625 Nova Zimbla, S7S Nubia, contiguous to Abyflinia, defcribed._ ii5 Nuns, the uncommon refolution of a certain number, to avoid the violation of their chaP-'ty, 109 O. Obelifi, Cleopatra's, at Alexandria, defcribcd, 117* Olympus, Mount, defcribed, 171 Oratifay, ifland of, defcribed, 541 Orkney, _ 53O Ofnaburg, fome account of that biflioprick, 2 1^ 0-Taheite, defcription of, 649 Oxford, defcription of that city and univerfity, 39S— 399 Palanquin, a particlar account of that vehicle lor (ravelling in India, 61 Palmyra, a particular account of that celebrated city, 1 1 1, 112, iij Panama, The city of, defcribed, 395 Paraguay, or La Plata, defcription of, < 375 Patagonia, defcription of, 51^4 Peak, the, in Dctbyfliire, its feveral wonders enumer- ated, 44« Pegu, A fkctcli of the king('oiii of, SS Pikinip I N I Piilig, confiHered as the capital of China, defcrlpiioii of, 7 Ptnn, Mr. obtains the grant of Penfylvania, for the pay- ment of debts due to his father, 616 Ptnfylvania, defcripiion of, 615 Ptrfifttii, a particular defcription of that once celebrated cily, 69 Pirfia, hiftory of, under the following divifions, viz. Ctuation, boundaries, face of the country, feas and rivers, air, winds and fcafons, public and private buildings, 68. 6q, 70, 71. Produce of the country, manufaftures, tiaffic, 71, 72, 73. Confliiution, go- vernment, laws, cuftoms, farces, revenues, haiam, 73. 74. 75. 76 — , A general hiftory of, 85—90 Pirfiani, their habits, food, falutations, diverfions and perfons defcribed, 78. Charnfler of them, ib. Their religion, feftivals and pilgrimages pointed out, 78, 79. rhcir language, fciences, arts, marriages, di- verfions, funerals, ami mourning confidered, 82, 83,84 Pitirbtrough, a concife account of the cathedral there, 4 1 2 PiUrJburg, the capital of the Ruffian empire, a defcription of that celebrated city, 236 Piru, defcription of, 579 PtrHviam, tlieir perfons, diet, drefs, &c. defcribed, 582, 583 Philudilphia, the capital of PenGlvania, defcribed, 616 Philippini IJlands defcribed, 29. From whence they de- rived their name, _ 31 Pillar, the, called Pompey's, in Alexandria, defcribed, 117 Pcland, an accoimt of its fituation, rivers, air, provinces, and chief towns, 230—232. Its produce, animals, . tfade, language, religion, money, government, &c. ■ defcribed, 23*— »34 Poleit defcription of their perfons, drefs, diet, diverfions, and way of travelling, defcribed, 232, 233 Population, in China, accounted for, 4 Porto Belio defcribed, 525 Port Royal, in Jamaica, an account of the earthquake there in 1692, • 683 Portfmtuth, defcription of that town, 343 Portugal, its fituation, air, produce, provinces, chief towns, and iflands defcribed, 322 — 325 Portuguefe, an account of their cuftoms, way of travelling, government, revenues, forces, nobility, religion, learn- ing, &c. 3*5—239 Prim, remarkable for being the birth-place of Bias, 104 Printing, in China, the ufual manner of, 15 Prihntrs, dreadful ftate of among the North American Indias, defcribed, 933 Privy Counfillory his duties pointed out. _ 497 Problma dtliacum, an explanatory account of it, 186 Pyramids, Egyptian, defcription oi them, 119. Dr. Shaw's opinion with regard to themj 120 X. ^ito, the capital of that province defcribed. 579 Rokigh, Sir Walter, makes the firft attempt towards eftablifliing a fettlement in Carolina, near the end of the reign of Queen Elizabeth, 609 Rath, a remaikable one near Lifmore in Ireland, of great antiquity, 5^' Ratiflmit fome account of that city, 223 Ritdi, remarkable ones near Ephefus, 105 Rici Fields, in China, peculiar manner of watering them praclifed with an hydraulic engine, 10 RtUn Hood, a curious old infcription to his memory 456 Roman Plate, a curious piece of, found in the year 1734, near Corbridge in Northumberland, now in the pofl'ef- fion of that duke, 473 Royal Exchange, defcribed, _ 392 Rujpa, Its fituation, air, feas, lakes, rivers, provinces, and chief towns defcribed, 235 — 238. An account of its produce, revenues, forces, trade, religion, nobi- lity, conftitution, &c. 238 — 241 Ruffians, their perfons, drefs, chara£ler, food, oathing, method of travelling, &c. 238, 239 S. Salem, in New England, curious particulars relating to a charge of witchcraft there, by the minifter of the place, 623, 624 Salijbury, account of that city, and its cathedral, 363 Salutation, the ufual modes of, in China, 14 Samoieds, (peo(i!c inhabiting the northern part of Siberia) their mode of living, 24 Sardanapalui, particulars relating to the death of that un- military monarch, 83 Sardis, defcription of that celebrated city, the capital of Lydia, 103 Sarke, ifland of, defcribed, 4V9 Scilty iflands, defcription of them, ibid. Sciffari, applied by the Chinefe to the clipping of gold and filver, 16 Sdovoma, the province of, defcribed, 204 Scotland, its fituation defcribed, and its divifions diftin- guiftieH, 501. Berwick, Roxburgh, Selkirk, Dum- fries, Kirkcudbright, and Wigton, 501, 502, 503. Air, 504. Peebles, ibid. Haddington, ibid. Edin- burgh, 505. Linlithgow, 508 Lanerk. 509. Ren- frew, 510. Dunbarton, ib, Stirlingftiire, ib. Clack- mannan and Kinrofs, 511. Fife, 512. Forfar, 515. Perth, 517. Argylelhire, 523. Invernefs, ibid. Kin- cardine, 526. Aberdeen, ibid. Scots, an account of their religion, learning, conftitution, &c. 343 — 352 Scott, Margarit, a remarkable infcription to her memory, 508 Seism, fovereign of Algiers, folicits the afliftance of Bar- barofla againft the Spaniards, 156. VVelcomes his de- liverer, and lodges him in the prince's palace, ibid. Is privately airaOTmated by him, ihi,]. Sitines, the capital of Livedia, the ancient Athens, ' -• fcribed, 172, 173, 174 ^heip, a fingular fpecies of, defcribed, 72 Shitland, ifles of, defcribed, 530 Sian, a copious defcription of that city, 49~~53 Sibiria, defcription of, 23 Sidon, the iirft city that attempted a foreign trade by fea, 109 Siltfia, the province of, defcribed, 205 Sipylus, a remarkable mount, in Afia Minor, 103. Its pre- fent ftate defcribed, ibid: Skeletons, remarkable ones III Trinity college, Dublin, 568 Siy, ifland of, defcribed, 538 Socitty IJlands defcribed, 654 Solan Gtefe, defcription of them, 50J South /imirsca, a general defcription of, 589 South XJift, ifland of, defcribed, 537 Southwell, remarkable ecclefiafticnl particulars relating to that town, 444. Sovereigns, a lift of Perfian, 87 Spain, its fituation, produce, air, mountains, rivers, bays^ and capes defcribed, 308. Provinces and chief towns« 309—314 Spaniards, defcription of their perfons, habits, charaSer, diet, vifits, diverfions, foundling- hofpitals, way of travelling, &c. 315, 316 Spict Iflands, defcription of them, 32 Spitzltrgen, ifland of, defcribed, 373 Staffe, ifland of, defcribed, C4O Staten Ifland, defcription of, 619 Statues, coloflal, curious ones in Eafter-Ifland, defcribed, 646 St. Barththmtw, ifland of, defcribed, 642 St. Chriflopher'a, 641 St. David's, in Pembrokeftiire, defcription of Its cathe- dral, 476 St. Helena, defcription of, 162 St. Kilda, ifland of, defcribed, 573 St. Lueia, 6^j St, Martin's, 94a St. Paul's, defcription of its cathedral, 373 St. Fintent, ifland of, defcribed, 043 Sumatra, 38 Sunda Iflands, defcription of them, ibid. Swabia, defcription of that circle in Germany, 220 Sweden, a general view of that kingdom, 242, 243, 244. Switzerland, I 1 N D r. X. \}>l Siiilzi'ilanil, its fitu.ition, fcifon', rivers, proiliuc, c.iii-' toiia, ami chief towns iliftrilicH, 27(1, iKoi 281 ! Switzfii, ail accDuiit of ilicir government, an>l ielij;iiin,' 281, 282. Ol llie territory fubjifl to tlu-ni, ;.»«, i8,i Syria, its litiutun ilefctibedi loU. Its fevirai divirimis ' niaiketl out, 108, 109, no T. 7a/'// entertainments nmong the Chinefc ticfcribed, i . 7tihr, moimt, one of the moil beautiful in tlie world, dcfcribtd. IC9 Tiiliipaiiis, or prierts of Siam, defcription of them, 54 Tiitiiirlaih; tlic celebrated I Mlitc Tartar, makis his full appearance in a diflinguilliing light, by repulfiiig tht Kuflians, who had invaded his country, 21. h equally fucccfbful againit die Chinrfe, ibid. Keccive^ amballadnis to implore his allillance .ngaiiill fi.ijazet, eniperor of the 'lurks, ibid, lidlens to their propofals, and ll-ls out upon his military expeilition, ibid, l)i rcc\s his route through the countries north of the I'al- plan f-'a, ibid. Continucii his maiLli througli Liicaf-j lla, Gi:orgia, and the terriioriis lituate between the Cafpi.in and Euxine feas, ibid. .Summnns the ci'y ol j bebadia in Armenia to furrenri, ibid. Teiiedi s, ibid. Me- tali.i, ibid. iScio, ibid. .>amos, 191. I'atnios, ibid. Tu'pt'itine, the manner in whiih it is prrcured in Caro- lina, delciihed, 6c() Tyr-lty, illand of, defcrilicd, 541 tyre, a Iketeh of it, in its prefent (late, 109 IT. Ulfiir, province of, defctibcd, 566 U',iii:l fu'vincei, ccpioiilly confidered, 160— 2t)4 li'pper Rhine, dcl'cription of that circle, 2 I 7, 2l8 (///>.<■ Sa.rory, the fiiuation of that circle, with its pro- vinces deleilbed, 208, 2C9, 210 !'//'ei '/ait.ry, del'eribcd, 20 Uirciht, the provinec of, defcribed, 230 Tripoli, the chief town in one of the divlfions of Syria, defcribed, 108 Treja NjtJtt, curious conjeiflures with regard to its topo- grajhical fituation, by Mr. Ward, iCO Twiii'it. the TurkiHi, defcribed, jgi Tunsmonia, defcription of that country, 98 Turky in Kurope, a general account of it, 165. The provinces dclcribeil, _ ibid. 7(4i/tj, their perfons defcribed, 191. Their dicfs, diet, tliverfions, method of travelling, and chaiadler, 191, I'a'ais, the republic of, d;lcribed, 284 I'' ej to: ins, delciipiion of that celebrated mountain, 299 W. Kales, its bounds defcribed, and its provinces enume- rale;in of the name, 3(57 K'ight, lile of, defcribed, 486 j //'/Wiliieks, the manner of catchirg them in China dc- ! feiibe. |ii|).irn^, ibi.l. |yi-)t ib. Siiro, ibid. 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I,'. -• 1 ;v». I y .f ,'• . I - v^ I* 1; A K of the W d It K. IN tbMW(Brfc€l»«DfgreciorLen|it)idciiii|.LsatiidcorUt PlMMof Nc;3in ll4iltti %in be iMikcd i illid ih€ Vtemb of iivery conANCoout Ktv« tneed ff«m th* IsgliDiinKM i|>»SMt of iu CbtirAh the CUfflue >nd 8eal^ oJF «jch Coumiy witt a«(f be dilcrlbMi, (hi Nanife of the Ml cxtmiued, iiid in vartoiA Procfiiee, whether Aoiuuil, YMetiblei or Mineral^ wilt b«diftinAt|r (|iecjfied. the Inhabinnti of ihe dil^rcni pwu «f tiw Wprld will be drtiRMted iccofdmg u> their peculhir Chari^rUUcs in Face. Peifon, TemperMlctm and Oeniui» a parlicolat A«couat wiii be deiivcredof their virioiu Ways of Life, Diet, Ortok, £Mtcift, wd Oiterfloni . their OccypatioM in Peace, and their Method of condudira War. \An interefling View wiCbe exhibited of iM Maaneri and Cuftonu of every Nation, uodw the (b- veralHeadf of Direfi, Salutatioai, Marriag«-<, Punertit, ^c. A copioaa Account will b« given of the CoNlHttitirioiM Supcrftitiont, at well a« thl|«At<- bllQied Kcligion of every Fcopie, pticed in the ckareft Point of View. ' the Chic? towns, and all eminent Public Buildings wiUl^twifebc the Ob)«a« df Dcferipciopi and a particular Account wili be given of the ctlebraMd R^tnain* of Antiquity, to all whteh.|r.ill bit added an accurate Hiftory of every Nation from the etrlieft-Periodi. 'vy To the P U fl I C. .■■W.1' NQtwithftanding the varJoua ai.d extenfjve Informaticn relative to Foreign Countrici, communiiated bydifftfreni Authora, no Work has hitherto heetjpublijfbeo, that com* ptiies an Account of the UBiverfe ufgaa focb a Plan as is calculated to convey an adtfqiiate Mea of the Subjeft. Book* of Travels ahd Voyages, thungb the greet Repoljtoriea of ufefal Olv fervation, generelly abotind with tediooe and oninlercfting Detaib, which, at tlM iiidle 'Tun* that they ptccWile,lhe Entertainment of *the Reader in ow of the moft delightftil Provinces of human Incjuiry, never fail to imprefs his Mind with fuch a Dlftttft, as, if it does not ex- linguifh the Ardour of Rcfcarch, atleaft relaxes his Effort* in the Purfuit of Improvcflient. While the Narratives of Travellers and Voyagers confift of a Profufiort of Materials inju* dlciooflycollcdtcd, tbofe Writers who have abridged their Works, have not jjroved more happy in their Compilations. Averfe, for the cnQft Part, to the Duty of examining Fafts, and of collating the Recitals of different Travellers witb caeh other, tbeyoften l'a«rifiee Truth ihtUf- criminatcly to the Illttfion of plaufible Error j and if they fometimci ventore to w^edfc iJw Marvellous, they fi-equei«ly exclude effential Objefts of Attention^ by c^dniehting themfeMi . witb the Information of a fingle Authority, and even that perhaps i»<>» the theft reftteda^e. But neither Redundance nor DefeA, neither Prejudice nof Inaccnnicy, aiift tboottly Faults confpicuous in Works of tLis Kind. The Arrangement ivofttm no lefs coflfijifed pad defttltofr than the Materials are frivolobs, if not likewife liable to tlefutatiou. Add to which, that the mofl Unimportant CIrcumftances frequently form the chief Subjeift of the Narrative, while the Government of the various Nation^ their Polity and commercial Interefts, as notbcii)|fb obvious to Inquiry, arc pafftd over with very little pJotice, or at leaft fo im JntrfedUy twated^ *» . to afford only faint and onfatisfaftory Informetipo. From thefe Greiwiiflances the great End of Obfcrvation is almoft entirely fniftrate*), «nd th* Relations of Travellers and Voyagers, from being rendered a valuable Mifcellany of Ififtruflfcfl and Entertainment, are degraded to Ve- bidea of inaccurate Defcription, unauthentic Intelligence, and ufaefs and impertinent Detail. To lay before tht Public a Work free from thefe ObjieaionB, is the Obje^^ of the pSifW Universal Teavei,ler, the Publication of whicHmight have commenced tv^oTwwego, and thereby have anticipated the feveral Produaionf of tHc Kind which have apl^redin that Time{ but the Inientiojfl of the Editor being to render it fuperi^t to all t)therSKh:e was defir- 0U8 to avail himfelf of the Informatics of fomeTVavdlers whofeNarrjat'W, were then pre- - paring for the Prefs. From t^fe Publications he has been enabled to give a fuller Acccunt of the ^forthern Countries in particular, than any preceding Writer could obtain » ind be has alfo, during that Interval, greitly enlarged bit Fond of Obfervationf, refpcftine the other Parts of the World, upon Authorities of the highcft Credit ih regard' bofth to Vei?acity and . Jadgment.' - ■ .-',v ■■.-.;,':.....-.•-■:..'. :::-■.■■ ■■■■'■■--•-_.-»' '■: Upon the Whole, if the rooft extenW, the mfra cwious, wd the moft 'i»«efeftmg lnf<^ mation, relative either to Foreign Countries or the Dbminions of Great Britain, in the varfo^JB departments of elegan:; and ornamental, or of foSid and tifcful Knowledgey^W fecomtj^* any Work tothe narttcuri Attentioii of the Pdblic, the UiiiyiNkiikt. TRA^xtik^tttifte- (nmed, will boa^itted tfc*'aveiiiii uiiqueftibo«*leClai|»t6t|lrir App*obafi^ ■'^. :i-';w.<: