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 4 56 
 
A 
 
 SHORT AMERICAN TRAMP 
 
 IN THE FALL OF I864 
 
 .^ 
 
 i''l 
 
friufrif/'v A- o- />', (■/„, 
 
 'ii> A- 
 
 FI'MO\Sl,,N AM. I.OUCJ.AS, KIMXurK., 
 
 I (■Mids 
 
 I AMI l;ili(,f. 
 
 I'l rir.iN 
 
 <.l \^r.(i\\ 
 
 1IA.MIM..N, MJAMS, A\-n CO, 
 MAC.MU.I, \\ ANIi Cii 
 M'1,1 N-,!! \s vxi, ,,,, , 
 .1 AMKs M \. I.I.IK>SK. 
 
 i 
 
UI 
 
 { 
 i 
 
 <».N 111- -M Ml, (nil. ■ Isc;};, ],l„,tu-ra],l, w-s takn. ^ftlir II.hIm, 
 't >t. .ImI,,,'-. Tlic api.aivnt -.'a liuii/,,,,, .Ij.iam tni inil.s ur 
 -. tVnni tlir >iM,t, was lii,l,l,.ii ]>y a -uli.l rait cf jMrk-i,.. i„ whirli 
 l.ii-r 1mi-^ w,.,v |ix,.,l ; tl„. iiam.w. aii.l the liail.air wnv full 
 "n.iuk>iil,iN. ()„ tlir l.racli urrat rnuiM.Ml l,l,icksuviv>trai,.l...l. 
 
 r.y .liawiliL^ |MlS]„.,tivi- ]\ur<\n tlir liMii/Mi, IV,. Ill tli...-r, ]Ki>t Fml 
 
 WaMfuiaw, ,liiiicii>i(.iis ran l.r inra>mv.l iii the iMrtur-, lor all 
 I'l'-t'-^iapli^ arr .hawii tn seal... Many uf the straii^lcl Mnrks 
 '■'1"''11''^1 th,' >i/c of tlu- -iuuiL'r.s' cutta-es. Tlir frouti.pi,.,... is 
 faithfully ivduccl from the jihoto-raph hy an ahlc artist, I„it no 
 
 ••nl>V ran CXprr^s tlR- .Ictuil ..f the Min-J.i.'t lUV. On thr Ml is a 
 llak,- at tlu. f ,ot of Si-nal-hill. On the top of that hill, whiel, 
 n-arlv ciuals the hei-ht of the opimsite hill on the rii^ht of the 
 I'lctur-, fre>h .i^haial stride, at a height of 540 feet, p.^nt o,,, to 
 ^ea. On the sky-line oi the hill to th, ri.^ht, perched l.lork> ran 
 '"• i".i'l'- nut in the plaUo-rai,!,, with a -.umI Irns. They aiv 
 Morks of nativ.- rock poise,! nj.on -h.ciuted weathered surtaces. 
 
 rh.'v are t,H, minute to he slmwn in a w lent, hut the camera 
 
 t">ni.l th.-m out an,l c.picl them, as it .li.l a small her- ten mih's 
 oil on thf hoiiz,in. 
 
 OLACIAL STUI.K COl'IKD I'.Y Rri>.I?IN(;.S. 
 
 Skyline ,,f Si<,riial-liill lelt. 
 ^^"''t^'f- Jiru, -1,111 livxw). 
 
 'West t,) Kast. 
 
 West ,, 
 
 540 f,Tt. 
 
 :3t50 ., 
 
 ISO f,M't. 
 
 X. 85'^ Wrst „ 
 H,i]lou near <,)ui,li Vi,li. 
 
 ! West 
 
 fiill-fa,,. l,ey,)n,l (,)ui,li Vidi, beliiii,! the coast-n 
 til ' T'n,-k-<''i'oove, 
 
 m^;,', ami in 
 
 •'^''''"'^•"^- I N. 42 W.,aii,l X. So- W 
 
 Th.'s,. Ia..t s,.,.,ii t,. run up-hill ^ ^ ,,ut ,jf U,,. o,,h,v,.. 
 
- ■ V ;: 
 
 V . . / /. 
 
 
 £Jij^iVvr=i 
 
 ^" f ()].(; Vr J k.. ?,i 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 
A SHORT 
 
 
 \.mi:rican tramp 
 
 1\ I III-; lAI.I. ol- 1864 
 
 T u 
 
 1 
 
 ; w 
 
 't 
 
 L A 
 
 ;i: 
 
 • .'■ 
 
 t 
 
 C - 
 
 • 
 
 1 — '• 
 
 H 
 
 3 ' i 
 
 
 "x -• 
 
 
 
 \'.\ 
 
 I HI: i.nnoK oi- ■ t.n i-. ix m^kmaxp)- 
 
 i:i)iNr,rK(iH : i:i)M()\sr()\ and doicilas 
 
 MDLICI.XV 
 
IC 7 
 
 c//- 
 
}l 
 
 'I'HESK I'AUE.S AKK DKUICATE 
 
 U TO 
 
 'nil-: WAM). KKi, 
 
 HY ONK (.[■ HIS CLA 
 
 ss. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 000—' 
 
 iNTUODLCTonY 
 
 CIlAl'TEK I 
 
 \'M.y. 
 
 CriAl'TKU 11. 
 
 l.ivKKi'ooL TO Halifax 
 
 W 
 
 CilAVTFAi HI. 
 Nova Scotia to Newfoundland 
 
 CllxVi'Tl'lf IV. 
 St. J(jiin',s to Straits of Uellelslh . 
 
 42 
 
 52 
 
 'i'liio Laijuadok 
 
 (•IIAlTi:i{ V. 
 
 
 Hi; Lauuadoh 
 
 (Jl lAlTl^: J i Vi. 
 
 I ID 
 
 AVALUN 
 
 ("IIAITHH VJI. 
 
 I _>.-) 
 
 rilAI'TKK \'Ili. 
 
 Newfoundland, etc. 
 
 I 45 
 
VI 
 
 ('•(NTl'iNTS. 
 
 <<^ 
 
 <'IIAI'TKI{ IX. 
 
 NlOW HUUNSWICK 
 
 PAor; 
 If)!) 
 
 <'l!AiTEU X. 
 
 rUL: SlATKS 
 
 I7<i 
 
 ClIAl'TKR XI. 
 
 I'lJl:; \\'1I1TE MlK'NTAIN.-J 
 
 CHAPTER XiJ. 
 
 M(JNTKi;.Vl, ■lO NiACARA AN|i IjLFFALO 
 
 CHAlTKl'v Xlil. 
 
 I'UFKAI.O To TIIK A\'ATEU«IIEr> 
 
 2 on 
 
 228 
 
 2{W) 
 
 CilAI'TER XIV. 
 
 ('HICAviO 
 
 276 
 
 <'11AJTER XV. 
 
 ( 'UKA(;o TO Si'. LoLJ.s 
 
 28: 
 
 ("llAJ^TKH XVI. 
 
 St. Loi'is TO Loui.svii.i.K 
 
 302 
 
 CHAPTER X\TI. 
 
 LouisviLi.K TO C'avk {'nv 
 
 CHAPTER XVJII. 
 
 LorisVlJ.I.E TO ClXCINNATr 
 
 ^'IIAPTKR XIX, 
 
 Pahtixc 
 
 341 
 
 '.nr.i 
 
 38 7 
 
i 
 
 r<L\r[:.\Ts, 
 
 \ii 
 
 ai'Im:xi.)|x. 
 
 No. f. Cr.I.IATK 
 
 N>'. II. Taju.kof Dihta\ci:s 
 
 Xo III, Tl-MPERATt-HK OF W.ATKH 
 
 Indrx 
 
 I'Ar.K 
 
 :>ii!j 
 
 4os 
 
 •no 
 
 4 1 a 
 
A\ 
 
 11 
 
 8 
 
 ^\' 
 
 sc 
 
-.?c 
 
 AN AMEPtlCAN TRAMP. 
 
 »♦♦- 
 
 CIIArTEIi I. 
 
 INTllODUCTOllY. 
 
 On llie fourteen til of June, l.oy.s, we -ot un.ler weigh 
 In 1]ie l)u].l Triiicess Roytil Ijounel for Americay, 
 And liftuen bold .sailors made our coni2)anee, 
 To the east and the west, and across the salt sea. 
 Oh, we'll g.j a cruising ; ,,h, we'll go a cruising ; 
 Oh, we'll go a cruising across tht^ salt .sea. 
 
 Sea Song. 
 Anxious to w a new country, and to test a glacial 
 theory forined and inatiirod in Switzerland, Scandinavia, 
 the British Isles, and Iceland, tlie writer of the following 
 pages started for a crnise in July 18G-1. 
 
 An ice-laden ocean-current now describes a south- 
 west clu■^•e from Spitzhergen, lat. 80°, to Cape Farewell 
 in Greenland, lat. 00° There, in the latitude of the 
 Slietlands, it eddies nortlr.vards, and turnini 
 
 L'nnig south- 
 
 ward 
 
 s again it coasts Labrador to 52°. l>art of it « 
 south-west through the Straits of Belleisle, near tin., h 
 
 B 
 
 .)WS 
 
 >ti- 
 
2 AN AMKiaCAX TUAMI'. 
 
 tiule of tile straits of Dover; tlie main stream flows 
 southwards outside of Xewlbuudland, over the banks, 
 and there it crosses the Gulf Stream uuout 40"'. Tlu^ 
 tail of this arctic current carries icebergs, 100 feet high 
 and a f[uarter of a mile long, to kit. 30" 10' at least, as 
 the following quotations show: — 
 
 'On the 27tli of April 1829, Captain Couthony 
 passed, in lat. :W 10' K, long. 39" W. (probably south 
 of tlie CUilf Stream), an iceberg estimated to be a quar- 
 ter of a mile long and from 80 to 100 feet high. It was 
 nnich wasted in its upper portion, which was worn and 
 broken into the most fanciful shapes.' 
 
 ' In 1831, at daylight on the l7th of August, lat. 3G° 
 20' N., long. 07" 4.")' W., upon the southern edge of the 
 Gulf Stream, he fell in with several small icebergs in 
 such proximity to each other as to leave little doubt of 
 their l)eing fragments of a large one, which, weakened 
 by the high temperature of the surrounding water, had 
 fallen asunder during a strong gale which had prevailed 
 from the south-east.' * 
 
 The icebergs which Hoat in this great Atlantic stream 
 are portions of glaciers which grow in Greenland at the 
 
 * SilHinau'rt Journal, vol. xliii. 1842, quoted in a memoir 
 (.)U d;mi,'ers in the Atlantic ; eleventh editiim, p. 15, New 
 York, E. and G. W. Blunt, 1849. 
 
(JAITAIN COL'THONY's ODSEUVATIONS. 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 •^.0° 
 
 tot' 
 
 lad 
 iled 
 
 'am 
 the 
 
 iieaivst, and they are often loaded with moraine^;, that is 
 to say, with hirgc stones and clay. 
 
 ' In September 1.822, Captain Couthony saw an iee- 
 biTg aground on the eastern edge of tire grand baidc, in lat. 
 43' 18' N., long. 48'' 30' W. Sounding three mik'S inside 
 of it the depth was found to be 10,") fatlioms (030 feet.)' 
 
 ' In the month oi" August 1827, tlie same observer, 
 while erossing the banks in Int. 40" 30', long. 48" AV., 
 passed within less tlian a mile of a large ir('l)erg which 
 was stranded in between 80 and 90 fathoms (.")40 feet) 
 water, lie ^\■as so near as to perceive distinctly large 
 fragments of rock and qujintities of earthy matter im- 
 bedded in the side of the iceberg, and to see from the 
 fore-yards that the water for at least a quarter of a mile 
 round it was full of mud stirred up from the bottom by 
 the violent rolling and crushing of the mass.'* 
 
 To the memoir al)0ve quoted a small chart of the 
 Atlantic is added, on which spots are noted where ice 
 has been seen, and the fact recorded in the 'Nautical 
 Magazine,' Purdy's ' ]\Iemoir of th(3 Atlantic,' news- 
 papers, or other publications, chiefly since 1832. It is 
 there shewn that floes, fields, and bt-rgs occur most 
 frerpiently between long. 44° and 02' W., occasionally 
 eastward of 40°, and westward of 60°. This region is 
 ■'■■ The luiul was probably moraine mud. 
 
AN AMERICAN TIIAMT. 
 
 m 
 
 iiL'Vcr wlidUy IVce ol' licavy i<r, and il is soiiietiincs 
 tliickly ciowdud l'<>r ''I'ual dUlaiicL'S hL'twucii hit. •40'' and 
 5(r, and fiutliui- iiortli. Sncli lacts, ])i(,'k('d u]) in a coiu'se 
 ol' I'uadinj^', a series of observations made in Europe dur- 
 ing twenty years, a set of exjjerinients, and a ti'ain ol" 
 tliouglit, liad led to tlie belief that an aretic cnrrent 
 once llowed S.AV. down tlie Baltic and over the Ihitish 
 Isles, and that siudi t'urrents were ani])ly suflieient to 
 account for many <ila('ial ])henomena in J'Jiro])e and 
 elsewhere. 
 
 ►Sea-shells of aretie types occur at Li,Teat elevations in 
 Western Europe. One bed occurs above 3000 feet on 
 Snowdon.*" Horizontal glacial stria- also occur on the 
 toj)s and shoulders of isolated hills in the Ih'itish Isles 
 at all elevations, uj) to 13000 feet, and their direction is 
 generally X.E. ami S.W., or thereby. Shells and high 
 stri;e tell of sea-watcr and heavy moving ice, and on 
 them a theory was built. As hn-ge islands of ice 
 are now carried by currents to latitudes which cor- 
 respond to (.Gibraltar in Europe, and to liichmond 
 and Cairo in Xorth America, simihir currents 
 may have carried drift to any sp(jt north of these 
 latitudes, and lower than ohl sea-margins. If ever 
 America was submerged, and the existing arctic cnr- 
 
 
 * l^inu'S, Sept. 20, 18G4. Letter from Mr. Daumgarten. ' A 
 cougloiufrato uf sliells, and casti^ of them, with sand and jH'lildes.' 
 
IS 
 
 ll 
 
 1)11 
 lee 
 itr- 
 lul 
 [its 
 3se 
 :er 
 lir- 
 
 A 
 
 i 
 
 si'OOUiNi:. 5 
 
 iviit llicii cdiiliiiucd its jircscnt soiitli-wcst course, tlic 
 s]>(i(»r (if it ()\\'j}\\ to li(> toiiiid aloiin' ii soutli-wi'st 
 ciirvL! ])n)ilucf(l from the Straits of I'x'llcisk'. So it ap- 
 Ijoavud ; luit tliis tlicovvluul to be tested 
 
 Tlic jilan foniicd t(» test this 'glacial tlieoiy' Nvas iirst 
 to study tlic ways of iccltt-rgs and tlie cliinate, on tlic 
 ctiast of Labratloi', in r>ritisli latitudes ; then to follow the 
 s]Mt()i' overland in North America as high u]) on hills, 
 and as far south as possihlc, and to learu focts from 
 the works ol' others, and from ull uvailahle sources. 
 
 Icehergs were seen, and ii spoor was followed to St. 
 Louis, on the Afississippi ; there it ended, aliout hit. 1)0°. 
 The hroad trail was crossed westwards at hit. 44"^ and 
 4.T' ; eastwards about hit. :Vr imd 41", and it was f..l- 
 lowed northwards to lioston, westwards to Albany, and 
 sMutliwards to Xew York. Iv confirmed the opinion 
 formed in iMiropc. 
 
 Whih^ thus spooring for some thousands of miles, other 
 things were noticed. A badly-ke]it journal may])erhaps 
 interest glaeialists and amuse readers who, like the 
 writer, tlclight in wandering to and fro under some [)re- 
 tcnce or other. 
 
 The first stc}) in such a tri]) ought to be an attempt 
 to gain some notion of the general shape of the country, 
 its jthysical g(^ograi)hy and geolog\-, so far as they seem 
 to bear on the subiecl to be studied. 
 
AN AMKHICAN 'IIJAMI'. 
 
 Ami;KI('AN PhYSIGAI, (iKOCHArilY. 
 
 ^•1 
 
 Tlic rollowiii,!^' arc a I'cw fhcls iioticeMl, picked up l>y 
 till! way, and gatlicrcd Iroiii vaiious scjurces : — 
 
 The Atlantic coast of North America is the low 
 shelvin,n' ed_nc of a l)r(ia(l slo|)e. It is iV(jni oO to 200 
 miles wide, and from /)(J0 to 500 I'eet high at the base 
 of the AUeghanics. These mountains Ibrm a chain 
 1300 mil(;s linig. The highest point is lUack Domi', 
 Korth Carolina, 0707 i'eet. The ridges are generally 
 continuous for h)ng distances, and run from X.E. to 
 S.W. They are more l)roken and worn to the uorth. 
 (-Japs in the White Mountains are about 2000 feet high, 
 and the higliest point is Mount Washington, 0288, ac- 
 cording to (Juyot.* From the h)\v sea-coast, westwards 
 to the uiountains, from tlie head of the ]5avof l\indv to 
 the I'otomac the slo2)e is generally a rolling plateau 
 covered with drift. It is furrowed in every direction 
 by branching watercourses of small de})th, and varied 
 by steps, terraces, and hollow^s, which, like tlu; coast and 
 mountains, trend N.E. and S.AV., or thereljy, or follow 
 zig-zag contour-lines on hill- sides, 
 
 Sindlar steps, ridges, and furrow^s are repeated under 
 
 * American Journal of Science, vols. xx.\i. and xx.xii. 
 
I'llVSKAl- (IKoCKAPUY. 
 
 l.V 
 
 (>r 
 
 water, and two great ocean-currents and strong tidfs 
 pasH u)» and down along the coast. Tlu; waters 
 move \.M !ind S.W. The lianks oil' sliore art' in con- 
 tinual movcnu'iit. An article on the del'cnt'es of Caj»e 
 Fear, aliout latitude o.V\ co]iic(l from a southern |»a])('r 
 ity the New York Herald of Xovciuhcr 4, ISiM-, says : — 
 ' Along the whole extent ol' the Xorth Carolina coast the 
 hays, inlets, and harl)ours ar constantly changing : the 
 sands shilling from ])lace to -[(lace, tilling up an entrance 
 here, antl oj»ening another there. Ahove jrattcras Swash 
 there is not oiuj inlet at the present time at all navigahle, 
 while no louijei- than twentv rears aiio there were three 
 or four. At this place there is the same change con- 
 stantly going on — the channcd mo\-iiig ahout from place 
 to plac(\ and the Jii]» tilling in with astonishing rapidity.' 
 According to the memoir above quoted,* two miles of 
 the western end of Sable Island, about latitude 44', have 
 been washed away since 1.S2S. Large ice-islands have 
 l)eeu seen near this spot, and an opinion prevails that the 
 whole island is becoming narrower ; that these chanu'es 
 have been going on since 1811, and that they are certain 
 to continue. About latituiU; 48" and 04', the sea, accord- 
 ing to fishermen, is grrtwing ><]tnU()i'-<r on the baid\s of 
 
 " Publislifd l.y I'], and CI. \V. JUunt, 17!) Water Streot, N\-\v 
 Vnik, 1S63, p. 4. 
 

 AN AMKUICAN THAMI'. 
 
 '<; 
 
 Ni-wioiindlaiKl. In llicsc sliallow ivj^ions, tlic liottitm 
 consists (iriinid, sand, coarse sand, uraA'rl, 1»n»kcn shells. 
 
 > o 
 
 and !aru(^ stones. Ice in idl sliajM-s aliounds, and the 
 nioveiuents of ocean-streams are constant and i'eL;nlar in 
 this re^^ion. The sea-coast, t'roni Ca[)e liace to (,'a)ie 
 Ifai'rison in Lahiador, is ro(d<.y, and it is slowly risiiii/. 
 Numerous rttcks and other dani^ers, which \vere marked 
 else\vher(f oil old charts ol' the iVtlanlic, have heen vainly 
 sought hy modern surveyors. These, if they ever ex- 
 isted, may liav(! suidv, or they have heen washed avay. 
 The coast-line and the sea-bottum are therelore in a state 
 ol'tiiinsition : the hed ol'tlui sea, is di'il't arranued hv water 
 and hy ice, and it is rising so as to become (Uy land in 
 time. II' the .Vtlantic shore of >iorth America were 
 submerged, currents and tides would llow in IkjUows, 
 which now contain bays and rivers, and they woidd cer- 
 tainly work in them as they do n(jw in hollows oil' shore. 
 
 The land on the eastern slope consists of nuid, sand, 
 gravel, pebbles, and large glaciated boulders i)acked in 
 layers u])on a foundation of solid rock, wliicli is striated 
 in many places ; the land looks like an old sea-bottom. 
 
 According to theory, every depression and elevation 
 of land would change the course of currents, the run of 
 tides, and the climate on shore. 
 
 A depression of 10(1 feet would make Newfoundland 
 
rilVSK AI- CF.OCItAIMIY 
 
 \) 
 
 iiii ;ir<'lii|M'l;i^n, and join tlu' ( Julf of St. Lawrence to tlu5 
 I»ay o|' ImiimIv. A lidf ol' 7'> IVfl, on one sidf of ii 
 |(t\v narrow isllmius, wonid I'f cliaiij^cd into a title of 
 1) I'rct if the harrier were reiiioveil. Tlu' cold stream 
 whieli iinw jiuins south-west tlnouuh the Straits of I'dh^- 
 isle w(»uM tlien ]i;iss throu^li straits in Xi'wfoundhuid 
 and enter the !>ay of Fund}'. Xova Scotia woidd then 
 l)eeonie a ran^e of low rocky islands, and the cold 
 conntrv of i'.lue X(»ses, about hit. 44" and dK'', would 
 ho chilled hy streams of iced watei- on hoth sides, in- 
 stciid of one. It seems ]>lain that a change would 
 result from a sli^lit rise of land a1 this s|(ol ; and the 
 ])riiicii)le, if estalilishe(l, may he a|>|>lied elsewheiv. 
 
 The same de[>ression would sink Li,i'eat ]iart of \ew 
 r^'unsw ick and a wide zone in the P^astern. States ; and 
 the change! would chill the climate of the coasts which 
 are now ]irotected from arctic waters hy Xova Scotia, 
 at least as far south as lioston. A dejirt'ssion of loo 
 feet would chill the climate of the Eastern slope of the 
 Alledianies. 
 
 A depression of GOO feet would sink most of the 
 land in the Ih'itish iiroviiices and in the Kastern States. 
 It Would fdl the valleys of the St. Lawrence, St. John, 
 Hudson, Sus([uehanna, and Shenandoah, and leaAe pa- 
 rallel ranges of low islands where [)arallel ridges now 
 
10 
 
 AN AMKUICAN TUAMI'. 
 
 cross IVoiii Xcw lUunswick into the Northern States, 
 ami IVoiii J'liiiisylvania into Viri^rinia, alnnit hit. 3!»". 
 
 One cross soiuid would l)c at the font of I'ctcr's 
 ^^(•ulltain, near Ilarrisbnru', al)out lat. 40", another at 
 tlio Viillev of tlu^ llndson, anotlier at the St. .lolin 
 iJiver in New Pirunswick. St. dohn New I»runs\vi(d<, 
 l'!ast|)(»rt, TorthuKl in Maine, iJostoii, New \'(»rk, Pliila- 
 (hdpliia, r)altiniore, Wasliinnton, K'iclunond, and the 
 liinla'st ])oints (in tlu' railways winch jdin these towns, 
 wonhl then Ite nmre tlian lifty fathoms under water. 
 Tlie land looks as if it had heen snl>nier;4-ed, and the 
 sha]>e of it lufiy indicate the fornier courses of existinj^' 
 currents, and climates which once ]>i'evailed, in conscs 
 ([ucnce of th(( distribution of hot and cold streams. 
 
 If the (le])ression of 'idO feet were general in America, 
 the sea W(ndd reach to Chicaiio, and cover the shores of 
 the <,n'eat lakes. 
 
 The central reL^ion of Nortli America consists of 
 two ^reat hasins. — oiu; drained hy the St. Law- 
 rence, the other hy the jMississijipi. A j^eneral de- 
 ])ression of 700 feet wouhl siidc the common edge of 
 these two shallow hasins in the wide tlat prairie near 
 Chicam The Belleisle stream minht then flow into 
 the (iulf of Mexico hehind the Alleghanies, and so chill 
 the climate <»!' all that t'cgion. 800 feet would sink the 
 connnou watershed at Fort \V;ivne. where I'ivers now 
 
I'lIYSICAI. CKOCUAI'IIY, 
 
 U 
 
 en, 
 
 of 
 
 ol 
 
 w- 
 
 .('- 
 
 of 
 
 av 
 
 ito 
 
 lill 
 
 the 
 
 flow ojiposilc ways witliin four miles of each other. 
 rjOU ftM'l would siiil< it at Civstliiie, and ri>])er San- 
 dusky, near lat. 41", in the centie of ( Hiio ; and at these 
 |ilaees stratitied water-drift ahounds. If the sea were 
 at Crestline, lonuj ran^ucs of islands erosse(l l>y sounds 
 would iviiiain, where chains of mountains nf)W (.'xtend 
 from New Ihunswiek into (leorj^iu and Ahdtania. (Ireat. 
 jiarl of Lahrador and (,'anada wouhl also rtMuain a cluster 
 of rocky hills to the north of a wide sea. \\\\\ the <'old 
 arctic south-west current wliich is now turned eastward 
 hy Lahi'ador, Newfoundland, Canada, New Urunswick, 
 and Xova Scotia, and which now carries icel)er<is 100 
 feet hi-h to lat. :3G° 10' in I he Atlantic, wi.idd surround 
 Lahi'ador, chill the cold climate of the land which it 
 now chills on one side only, and How south-west to St. 
 Loius on the Mississi]»[)i about lat. 30''. The case su))- 
 posed for X(jva Scotia, would he rcjieated on a larger 
 scale. St) I'ar, there is nothing' in the shape of the land 
 to str)]) the How of an arctic current 70<) fi-et dee})er 
 than the Atlantic. The waiiii ('([uatorial current which 
 now Hows westward into the (.Julf of Mexico, and turns 
 eastward towards Europe, niiL;h(, if the sea were at 
 Crestline, How on towards the north-west beneath the 
 liocky ^Mountains, and reach as far as it now does on the 
 coast of EiU'ope and about Iceland and SpitzberLien. 
 
12 
 
 AN AMKRICAN TRAMi'. 
 
 Accord in,u' to theory, all this would icsult IVoin a 
 i^oiieral di'2)ression of 700 to 1200 feet in North Ame- 
 rica. Oeeaii-curreuts would chau<>(^ their courses, and 
 they would cai'ry tlunr cliniaces to otlier longitudes, Init 
 to the same latitudes* 
 
 A depression of 2000 or 3000 feet would only 
 narrow tlie land still more, and widen, dee])en, and 
 multiply ga]>s in chains of American islands ; for many 
 points and \vide tracts in the liocky ^Mountains and in 
 the Alleghanies rise far ahove a level of 3000 feet. 
 
 If this theory he well Ibunded ; if currents like 
 those which now llow in the Atlantic have in fact 
 flowed over Xorth America in late LieoloLiical times, 
 ancient sea-margins ought to he found at old sea- 
 levels on hill-sides ; and drift arranged hy water 
 in various forms ought to cover the plains and low- 
 lands. The hed of the arctic current in the hasins of 
 the St. Lawrence and .Mississip})i should be scored hy 
 icebergs, or strewed with glacial drift at least as far as 
 the present known limit of Atlantic icehei'gs, namely, 
 hit. 3i)° 10'. The western coast (jf tlic American sea, 
 and the ancient bed of the etpiatorial current, the plains 
 
 * Miinv of tlic heights 'nvcn aw from olisoivatioiis t;ikrii 
 with a poi'kcl auoroid l>aroiiift(.'r, ami aic nicivly aiii)iM\iiiiati<>iis 
 
 In die trutll. 
 
J'lIYSICAL GEOGH.Vl'lIY. 
 
 13 
 
 roiii a 
 
 AllK'- 
 
 s, and 
 3S, but 
 
 only 
 I, and 
 many 
 nd in 
 
 3 like 
 1 lact 
 times, 
 sea- 
 water 
 lo^\'- 
 :ns oi' 
 :m1 In- 
 far ns 
 tnely, 
 I sea, 
 ilains 
 
 taken 
 at ions 
 
 about llii! foot (.f the Ifucky Mountains, ought to he as 
 clear of -lacial drift as the hed of the (Julf Stream in 
 llie Atlantic now is ; but if the equatorial current passetl 
 westwards at Pajiaina, the old arctic current and its 
 •Irift may have reached lat. 30° 10' m these western 
 regions also. The memoir above quoted says (]>. li))_ 
 'Perhaps too little consideration has hitherto been 
 given to the charac-ter and effects of the polar euri'ents. 
 These appear to be well worthy of the attention of both 
 the navigator and the philosopher. We have seen that 
 the moderate but unceasing How of these currents ...ften 
 interposes an icy barrier in one of the most common 
 routes of navigation. The observing geologist Mill als., 
 d:.--rn in the course of the great ice-currents of the 
 Atlantic, both before and after their contact with the 
 tropical stream, a striking coincidence with the direc- 
 tions of the two systems of stri.j which mark the 
 abraded surface of the continental rocks, the origin of 
 Mhich nnist be referred to the early and prolonged 
 period when these rocks were situated beneath "h.,' 
 ceaseless How of the ocean-currents.'* 
 
 Assuming that all Xorth America was sulnnerged 
 to a considerable depth, it seems to follow that clinuUes 
 
 ■^ Sillimairs .bmnml, vol. xliii. p. 150. ,.„i_ ^^^. .^,,^. 
 ^}anU'd in the nieiuoir, 
 
14 
 
 AN AMERICAN THAMJ'. 
 
 changed place when the sea was over tlie central dis- 
 trict. 
 
 Some fresh evidence of a general submergence was 
 found in Xorth America, and more was gathered from 
 recent books. In the first place, American rocks and 
 fossils prove tliat every part of the continent now 
 above water lias been repeatedly submerged and up- 
 heaved. Sea-shells are preserved in sedimeiitary strata 
 of all ages. Kegions on which land-plants grew in the 
 carbonilerous age were then above water, and yet sea- 
 fish are buried in rocks "which overlie coal-seams and 
 upright tree-stumps. Strata of vast thickness, wliich 
 are now crumpled and folded into ridges in the Alle- 
 ghany ]\rountains, cover regions of ancient disturbance, 
 and may therefore have been lately disturl^ed. They 
 may have sunk and risen again ; for land is sinking 
 or rising now in Scandinavia, Spitzbergen, Greenland, 
 Labrador, and Newfoundland. Volcanic phenomena, 
 earthquakes, etc., al)ound in tiie Eocky Mountains. 
 Areas which were sea-bottoms in Laurentian, Silurian, 
 Devonian, Carboniferous, Cretaceous, or later ages, and 
 wliich are now moving, may have formed the bed of 
 an American sea during some recent post-tertiary age. 
 Recent sea-shells, water-w^orn gravel, sand, and such-like 
 materials, packed in certain forms ; 'terraces of tleposi- 
 
I'HYSICAL GEOGKAPIIY. 
 
 15 
 
 ikins 
 
 I' age. 
 
 -like 
 
 3posi- 
 
 tion' — iimttor arrai^ed in the i'oriu of sea-iiiaroiiis, and 
 'temu'i'S (jf urosioii' — liorizontal shelves and clilt's — are 
 wat('i'-iiiarks ; and their position may he such as to provo 
 them to he sea-marks. These marks prove a possible case. 
 TliL'y ahound along the coast in Labrador and New- 
 foundland, and mark a sea-level there, liecent sea- 
 shells of arctic type occur at an elevation of 500 feet 
 above th(i sea, near Otta\\a, in the centre of Canada, and 
 the hills in that region are cons])icuously terraced, and 
 covered with drift. Similar shells occur above terraces 
 near (.»>uebec. Allo^\■ing these shells 7(* feet of water to 
 live in, this level carries the sea to Chicago. A bed of 
 cockles was lately found by an Irishman in digging a 
 well at Brockville, at the foot of Lake Ontario ; and the 
 l>ones of a seal, and of a whale, were found, together 
 with sea-shells, near ^Montreal. The bones of a whale 
 were found in Vermont. These marks carry the sea to 
 Hamilton, close to the Falls of Niagara, and through 
 the valley of the Hudson to Xew York, and prove that 
 it was a cold sea. Foreign boulders are jierched on the 
 top of ^Montreal Mountain, a rock which stands alone 
 in the wide river-plain ; and ^Montreal ^Mountain is 
 scored with glacial striie. These are authentic records ; 
 some of them are ])reserved in the museum at Montreal, 
 and recorded in books of authority ; others rest on jjer- 
 
16 
 
 AN AMEKICAN TRAMl' 
 
 sunal olrserviitioii : they scuiii tu provi' that a j^ivat part 
 of America was .subiiicrt'ctl duriiiL'' a iilacial period. 
 Other records less well authenticated have valiu; 
 when thus supported. An En^i^lish hunter wIkj now 
 lives at Wilnii.igton, near Chicago, asserts that coni- 
 nion oyster-shells are scattered on hills between 
 ]\Iadison and the Yellowstone liiver, somewhere be- 
 tween lat. 44° and 40° K, and long. 110° and 114° W. 
 They were ' as natural as on ji beach.' ljaltimor(3 
 oystei's are commonly eaten in all western towns to 
 which railways ext(3nd, and everyone knows an oyster ; 
 but no luxurious emigrant would be apt to carry l)ar- 
 relled oxsters to the far west. The hunter supposed 
 that Indians had carried the oysters to their hills, for 
 though moss-grown they seemed tpiite fresh. They were 
 found in great numbers, and at many places in the 
 region. If these be recent shells in dta, or washed out 
 of drift by the rains, they cany the sea to the foot of 
 the liockv ^Mountains, and drown the whole central dis- 
 trict of North America. The salt lakes of the Eocky 
 INIountains seem to carry it still further : they arc 
 su})posed to be remnants of a partially-dried-up inland 
 sea, for they have no outlets. 
 
 Eeturning to the Atlantic coast, a sick soldier who 
 had been a schoolmaster, and who had lately returned 
 
I'HYSICAL (iEOCUAPIlV 
 
 17 
 
 5, for 
 were 
 
 the 
 
 out 
 )0t of 
 
 (lis- 
 locky 
 
 are 
 iland 
 
 who 
 inied 
 
 from ' the front/ nssertcd at Wasliiii.nton that, in Orlolicr 
 1.8G4, he liad seen ;.• hcd of common sua-shells of many 
 sorts at a eonsidera])le lieight aljove the James Kiver, 
 near Kichmond. 
 
 According to Dana, Sir A\'. Logan, and otliers, who 
 are aWe geologists and skilled witnesses, recent sea- 
 shells of arctic type occur at many spots in drift, in 
 Canada, in central and eastern North America, and else- 
 where, c.fj., at JJoston and near New ^'ork. 
 
 The formations which arc associated with these sea- 
 shells — namely, stratified gravel-beds, rolled stones, etc., 
 arranged in plains and terraces — abound on both sitles of 
 the White ^fountains along the Grand Trunk Ilailway. 
 At Mount Washington a patch of drift occurs above 
 3000 feet, near the newly-made coach-road. Glacial 
 stria; at 2000 feet point horizontally south-westwards, 
 through a gap, and the watershed of the gap is 600 feet 
 lower than these strice. There is a drift-terrace in the 
 pass. Terraces and plains of water-worn drift abound 
 throughout this mountain region. On the Canadian 
 side they occur at 1500 feet, at the highest point on this 
 line. These were observed by Hitchcock. On the 
 Atlantic slope they occur at equal and greater 
 heights. They are conspicuous objects all along 
 this railway line, and similar shapes and materiah' 
 
 (' 
 
f 
 
 IS 
 
 AX AMKRICAX TKA.MI' 
 
 nciir ulioiil tlic saiuc k-NcIs <»ii tlic road liehvccii 
 liostou and Albany, and uii tlic Catskill iMoiin- 
 laiiis. Tlie nearest lands of equal height are eastwards 
 in Europe; northwards heyoiid the 8t. Lawrence, in the 
 Laureiitian chain ; and westwards beyond the ^Mississippi 
 and the great lakes, in the Kocky Mountains. At the 
 head of Lake Superior is a terrace 030 feet above tlu; 
 sea, and all the great lakes are surrounded by systems 
 of terraces at lower levels. If any of these high terraces 
 are in fact ancient sea-margins, the whole land has 
 risen pretty equally, for the variation in the level of 
 each terrace is small. Ihit if the land has risen equally, 
 the level of the terrace at the head of Lake Supcsrior 
 sinks the watershed at the foot of Lake Michigan, and 
 leaves no opposite shore to hold a lake. The northern 
 terrace is 930 feet above the sea, the watershed below 
 Chicago is G50. It is only 800 feet at Fort Wayne, and 
 1000 at Sandusky, a place more than 250 miles east of 
 Chicago. At all these places glaciated boulders, water- 
 worn drift, and stratified sand abound.* When sea- 
 shells are carefulh' sought, they will be found in the 
 
 * According to the survey of tlic ^lis.sissippi basin, the jiuiction 
 (if llie ]^Iississippi and Alissouri is 381 feet a^ ove high water ; the 
 utmost source of the Mississippi, 1680 ; mouth of the Ohio, 275 ; 
 Louisville, 3G1 ; Pitlshurg, 975 ; northern watershed towards 
 Lake Erie, 1503 to 10(55. 
 
(.;KOi/»(iV, 
 
 lU 
 
 weeii 
 
 loiin- 
 
 vavds 
 
 n tliu 
 
 isippi 
 
 .t the 
 
 ,'e the 
 
 stems 
 
 rraces 
 
 d lias 
 
 ^•el of 
 
 lually, 
 
 iperiov 
 , and 
 
 irtheni 
 
 below 
 
 e, and 
 
 ast of 
 
 Kvater- 
 
 [1 sea- 
 
 11 tlie 
 
 limction 
 
 H'V ; tin' 
 
 l», 275 ; 
 
 towards 
 
 }.raii'i(', it this i. "oiy lu- well luiiudiMl. Tims ancient 
 water-luvels aiv niaikiil 'Hi ••[•posite heiglits. In Murojic 
 bysliells oil Siiowdon at iiUDO leet ; on Mount Wasliiiii;- 
 toii by drift al)uut the same luvcl ; at (Jltawa l)y arctic sliells 
 in drift at :>(I0 feet ; at the liead of Lake Superior by a 
 terrace at •»:;() feet ; at the foot of Lake Michigan by 
 water-rolled gravel and stratified sand, beneath boulder- 
 clay, which contains scratched stones of northern origin. 
 A few links only are wanting to carry the sea-level to the 
 oyster-shells (jf the bulfalo-hunter, to the salt dominions 
 of Ih'ighani Young, and to the l*acitlc. 
 
 In this argument boulders have weight. They speak 
 from high phitlbrms in the White Mountains, from a ( 'hi- 
 cago ])latfoini of their own, and down south. lUit in order 
 to understand their drift, some explanation is necessary. 
 
 The chief features of Ameriean geology, as explained 
 by American getjlogists, are marked and simi)le. The 
 Laurentian chain t(j the north of the St. Lawrence is 
 from two to tliree thousand feet hhAi ; it consists of so- 
 called azoic rocks. The formation extends from Hamil- 
 ton Inlet in Labrad( )r, westward beyond Lake Superior ; 
 its northern limit is unknown, but, according to Dana,* 
 no rocks of the age occur at the surface between lat. 45" 
 and :>G" 10', except near Lake Superior and at the foot 
 * Manuiil ol'Geiilugy, iSG3. 
 
20 
 
 AN AMKlilCAN 'I'lJAMI' 
 
 of Lak<; Ki'ii'. Tlic Laiu'eiiliiin ionnatiou (;(jiisists uliietlv 
 of luird iiiL'iainorpliic ciystalliiio roclvs, gi'aiiitcs, ^^iK.'iss, 
 syenitos, scliists, s('r])entiii(.'s, marbles, (luartz, coarse 
 eoii.u'lomerates, etc. Tlie ]»ai'eiit rock, the oldest sedi- 
 mentary Ibrmation known, lias been nplieaved, sliat- 
 tereil, crumpled, contorted, aiid is so altered, as almost 
 to obliterate idl traces of life. Fossils lately discovered 
 in rocks of this age, by Sir William Logan in Canada, 
 and by Sir Roderick ^Mnrcbison in Scotland, were hard 
 oven to find and rGcoi>niso. These 'azoic' rocks au^ 
 hard, glittering, and siisceptibh; of high polish ; they 
 are striped, barred, and s])otted with consi)icuous bright 
 (colours, strongly contrasted and arranged in patterns 
 wdiich catch the eye. They resist weather, and retain 
 their shape and polish. 
 
 Iiocks to the south of this Laurentian region, in the 
 central districts of North America, between lat. 45" and 
 36" 10', belong to newer foi'mations — Silurian, Devonian, 
 Carboniferous, Cretaceous, etc. These have been less 
 disturbed, and are less altered, than the ' fundamental 
 gneiss ' on which they are supposed to rest, and from 
 whose debris they grew. They are not generally crys- 
 talline, and do not usually shine ; their colours are 
 sombre and uniform, they have numerous traces of life, 
 and thev are easilv scratched with iron or hard stone : 
 
"1 
 
 YANKEE BOL'LDEKS. 
 
 in 
 
 from 
 
 icrys- 
 Is are 
 life, 
 tone : 
 
 I 
 
 suiiie even ^vilh the nail. Tliey are not su.sei'ptililc of 
 a higli pulisli, and, \\\wn siuootlied, easily yicltl to 
 wcatlier. A bit of old Canadian azoie rock — a stiipcd, 
 jjolislu'd, scnljitured boulder, transported to Niagara, or 
 to the coal regions of the Ohio — is therefore cijnspicu- 
 ous from contrast in hardness, lustre, cohjnr, shape, and 
 ])olish. It is as renuirkable as a red coat is in iin army 
 of grayl)acks, or a tartan plaid in Philadelphia, or 
 threadbare broadcloth amongst shoddy ; to see it is to 
 know it as a tVjreign production carried from north to 
 south. These large cons])icuous stones have been carried 
 to great heights, and sonthwards in great numbers, from 
 lat 45" at the nearest, at least to lat. 3U", near St. Lonis 
 on the ^Mississippi ; and the phenomenon demands 
 sonic explanation. 
 
 It is admitted by all geologists who kncnv the facts, 
 tliat ice in some shape carried bonlders from north to 
 south; but there are two rival schools of 'Glacialists. 
 Like American politicians, they are rei)ublicans and de- 
 mocrats, both far advanced, and both determined to go 
 ahead and fight. The old tory party call both ice- 
 mad ; but there is method in such madness, and such 
 crazy folk are apt to lead wise men. 
 
 The views of the most advanced school are now held 
 by Agassiz, and are clearly stati^d by liini in tlie AUaiifie 
 
22 
 
 Ax\ AMKKIf'AN THAMI' 
 
 Mfi(j((\uu' for 1S(;4. 'I'lic iiutlior, who did so iiiucli for 
 sciuiicc ill Ill's own country, di'ScrilK's Alpiin' i^laciers, 
 tlicir nature, iiiovcnK'nts, action, and marks new and 
 old. iraAiii<4' clearly exjilaiiied tliat wliicli lie thoroughly 
 knows, he rel'ers to marks in tlie Ih'itish Isle.s, wliicli he. 
 studied ill ISdO. Those 'dressed rocks' were early 
 noticed by Scotch geologists, who could not ex])lain them 
 without the ice-key. They are well desciibed in a late 
 ])ani]th1et hy Mr. A. Geikie.* These and similar marks, 
 I'ouud and deserihed l>y others in Scandinavia and else- 
 where, led tlie Swiss i»hiloso})lier, lamiliar with ice in the 
 form of glaciers, to Ijclieve that during a late period, to 
 be called 'the glacial ])erird,' all northern lMiroi)e was 
 covered by one great com])ound glacier. It was a sheet 
 of ice which flowed down from all mountains and nionn- 
 tain-ranges, tilled and bridged over hollows which now 
 contain lakes and inland seas, covered and moved over 
 plains and low hills. It cruslied and ground rocks, 
 ])ushed and carried stones from centres of dis^Dcrsion, as 
 glaciers still do in Switzerland and Greenland. Vast 
 moraines in Lombardy and in Germany now mark spots 
 to which the .Vipine systinn once extended ; the Scan- 
 dinavian system I'eached Poland and England, and it 
 
 * On tlu' rhcnoiueuu of llu- CJlacial Drift of Scotland, l>y 
 Archiliald (Jrikic Olasuow. Jolni (Jray, !)!) Hutchison Street. 
 lS(i;5. 
 
 
IIIVAI. (;l.A( lAI.lSTS. 
 
 'j:» 
 
 Vast 
 ^pots 
 
 (1 it 
 
 'ft 
 f 
 
 jniiiiMl till' Scotfli, Welsh, ;iii(l Swiss syslcins. Many <»l' 
 llu' Italian lakes arc l)Ut jmx.Is ol' rain-walrr iH-liiiid uianl- 
 nioraiiH's (d' this I'au'n|)caii ' ^iacial iifiiud.' N'orlhciii 
 Ii<iuhlcrs, the (Jothsand Vandals of m'olnMy, invailcd 
 tht' south, ovcrmn and rcniodi'lh'd it; their liai'dy ic- 
 niains have caused a modern geological revolution, and 
 a sturdy iiL;ht, which still endures. 
 
 The July nundier of the Afhintir. Moii/hl// contains 
 the .growth of tliis Alpine ^ulaeial theory on American soil. 
 It is broadly stateil by Agassiz, tluit drift and othei- marks 
 of glacial action reach tlu^ l)anks of the Ohio, ami extend 
 to ()e(»i'L!ia and Alabama in tla: .Vllesjlianv Mountains. J f 
 so, they only reach latitudes which are now reached by 
 lloating glacier-ice in the .Vtlantic ; but these facts have 
 led the advanced party U) btdieve that a continuous 
 glacier covered the whole American C<jntinent, fiom the 
 Polar Jiegions to the limit of northern drift. Kurojiean 
 glaciers, and European and American tacts, together 
 form the base i»l" the glacial theory now explained and 
 adopted by Agassiz. lie holds that two ancient glaciers 
 (•(jvered gi'eat part of both heniis[theros ; their neve was 
 ir»,0()() feet thick at the poles, and grew chieily there 
 from falling snow ; the ice, foi'med by pressure, was G(MM) 
 feet thick about latitude 4-1: in the White Mountains, 
 and li),0(M) feet thick in the Al[»s. The two polarglaricrs 
 
 1 
 
'^ 
 
 24 
 
 AN AMKKKAN TKA.MI'. 
 
 iim»vlmI towards cacli otlu'i', and tuwaids tlit.' eijuator, 
 radiating every way IVdiii llie poles on meridians ; they 
 Hpread like lumps of jiiitty or dou^li, wliieli are eruslied 
 and i)uslietl outwards by their own weij^ht. This j^^eiieral 
 dirt'ct movement was sli.uhtly niodiliecl hy the slmpo of 
 tile ground ; and ice also spread I'roni loeul centres, as it 
 now does in (li'eenland. The northern glacier, it is said, 
 ]»assed over the low mountains of tli^' Laurentian chain 
 in I.ahrador and Canada, as snudl glaciers now pass over 
 smaller elevations ; it ground these mountains into 
 ' roehes nioutoinu'es' 2()(Hl or 3000 feet high ; and at the 
 same time a southern glacier of equal dimensions did as 
 much at the anti[)odes, and left its tiacks in South 
 America. 'The glacier was God's great plough, Mhich 
 left the land pri'pared for the husbandnuin.' The causes 
 wliicli cliangcul the climate of the whole world have yet 
 to be ex])lained by Agassiz in a i)romised paper. 
 
 A similar theory was less boldly advocated by Dana, 
 in his ^lanual of Geology, 18(1."). The ^^revalence of 
 long deep fjords, and the abundance of lakes and rock- 
 basins in high latitudes, are noticed as facts which sup- 
 ])ort the big glacier. Both these writers quote Professor 
 liamsay. Sir W. Logan, jind other eminent geologists, 
 who either hold similar views or incline towards them. 
 
 Mr. .Fohn de Laski also supports the glacier, and 
 
1 
 
 
 lUVAL TIIKOIUKS. 
 
 25 
 
 <,'ive.s an account of glaciated rocks about IVnobscut Tuiy. 
 AcciJidiii^' to his »lL'.-;crii)tioM, tlic amount of ^laciation 
 (.'([uals, l>ii( (Iocs not oxcootl, tl.at of Xcwlbundhuul, Xova 
 Scijtia, Xcw I'.iunswick, Canadii, Maine, New York, St-ut- 
 lau'l, Ireland, Wales, Iceland, and Scandinavia. Oni; 
 explanation nnist lit all tliesu countries or none. 
 
 On the other hand, democratic American glacialist.s, 
 ready Ibr battle but liankerin^' al'tt-r peace, have sup- 
 porteil more conservative views. Jackson, in his Geo- 
 logy of New Hampshire, 18-14, attributes glacial stria.' 
 and the transjiort of boulders to ice-mfts and tid(?s. He 
 ]>oints out the usefulness of the water-flood, which, as he 
 maintains, mingled the soils and augmented their use 
 for agricultural pui'p(jscs. He mentions the glacial 
 theories of Agassiz, published about that time, but only 
 to object to them. The American ex})lained the puzzle 
 by ice-rafts in <a shallow sea, with which he w as familiar 
 at home ; the Swiss, l)y his native glaciers. At page 
 1 l:j, Jackson describes a notable set of water-marks 
 near ]\Iount AVashington, wliicli is G228 feet high. At a 
 height of 1220 feet al)ove the sea, at a summit-level 
 which divides the tributary streamlets of the Connecticut 
 and ^Nlerrimac rivers, and from 900 to 1000 feet above 
 these streams, he found large i>ot-holes in hard granite. 
 One is 11 feet deep, and 4 feet in dianu'ter. AVhen 
 
 
20 
 
 AN AMERICAN TKA.Ml'. 
 
 first discovured, it wiis lull ul' siuootli round stones ; it 
 was smootli inside, and in all respects similar to pot- 
 holes in neiglibouring river-beds ; but no large stream 
 could possibly reach the s[)ot without some extraordinary 
 change in the physical geography of the district. ' Drift- 
 scratches,' running from N. 10° E. to S. 10^ W. (l)y 
 compass), were numerous on all rocks newly uncovered 
 in this neighbourhood ; and rows of smaller pot-holes 
 corresponded to this direction, which is al)Out N. and S. 
 true. In such a position, large pot-holes and stria' 
 seem to mean heavy streams of water bearing heavy ice 
 nearly due south (true), at a level which would sink 
 most of the hind in America, and, in parHcular, many 
 terraces in this region. 
 
 Those who uphold the glacier call such marks giant's 
 tubs, and attribute to them streams falling through glaciers 
 into ' moulins.' In this case no mere local glacier could 
 reach the s]»(jt. Stri;e noticed by this writer on the eastern 
 slopes come generally from X. 15" AV., and go to 8. 15" K. 
 They do not radiate from local centres as glaciers do. 
 Silurian Ijoulders have followed a similar course from 
 heights near the Canada road and Aroostook river to 
 islands in renoljscol \\\y. Conglomerate of Su^ar-Loaf 
 Mountain is found 100 miles S.E. in Eddin^ton. Iron- 
 ore froui Iron Mountain in (,'und»erland, It. I., has bfcu 
 
I'vIVAI, TIIf:0KIK8. 
 
 27 
 
 1 
 
 '''4 
 
 I 
 
 carvii'd 40 miles soiitliv/ard. ll<iw iiinch further stones 
 may have traveUeil I'lom these points, or where stones 
 really came from, it is liai'd to say ; for the Avliole eastern 
 coast is strewed with stones Mliich may have come from 
 Lihradoi', because they resemble rocks in that country. 
 Tliere are couLjlonu'rates in Xewfoundlaud, and iron-ore 
 is found in Xova Seotia. 
 
 The whole subject of surface-geology is treated by 
 Hitchcock, in pa[)ers in the Smithsonian Contributions 
 to Knowk'dge, 1S37. After ijuoting Chambers on 
 ancient sea-margins, Lyell, and othin- writers, he declares 
 liis own impression to be tliat old sea-bottoms may still 
 lie traced in many parts of America to the height of 
 lOiin to 2001) feet aljove the pres(mt sea-level. It has 
 been shown above that drift rises to 3000 feet at least 
 on the Hank of ]\[ount Washington. ]\laps, sections, and 
 a taljle of elevations at which ' terraces ' and ' beaches ' 
 were found bv this authoi' are added to his work. Two 
 beaches are marked near INIount Washington — in Wliite 
 Mountain notch, and Franconia notch — both of which 
 ar(3 high passes. They occur at 2GG5, 2449, 20To, \^JC)'A 
 feet above the sea in this region, according to this 
 author. Xo sea-shells had been found in the Alleghanies 
 in Xovember 1804, so far as known to the learned at 
 IiosOmi, though drift-shells had been discovered in low 
 
'2S 
 
 AN AMERICAN TKAMP. 
 
 liills noar Dostoii itself. Similar beaches were observed 
 by Hitclicuck at 2547 feet on Snowdoii, where marine 
 shells have since been found at 3000 ; and more 
 'beaches' were found at 2040 feet in Switzerland, where 
 shells have not yet been found. After 30 years of 
 experience in the study of surface-geology, this writer 
 says : ' It is hardly venturing l)eyond a legitimate con- 
 clusion, in view of the preceding facts, to say that all 
 the northern part of this (American) continent, at least 
 all east of the "Mississippi, has been covered by the 
 ocean since the drift period. The same reasoning, of 
 course, applies to Europe also. 
 
 The travelled American, familiar with Swiss glaciers, 
 and with American ice-rafts, and with the works of 
 other writers, appears to have hit the mark. Ke 
 supposes that the whole continent sank during the 
 period of boulder-clay, and rose during the period of 
 ' modified drift.' While sunk it was covered by an ice- 
 laden sea, which grew warmer as the land rose again. 
 The sea was then inhabited by shells. Xo reason for 
 the change in climate is given by Hitchcock. 
 
 The reason suggested above is the change in the direc- 
 tion of the Arctic Current, which would result from the 
 sinking and rising of the Laurentian chain. That block 
 of land now l>ars the wav, and sends ice and its climate 
 
 
1)IV1DKI> AFFECTIONS. 
 
 •JO 
 
 direc- 
 
 liii the 
 
 block 
 
 iniato 
 
 tu the middle oi' the Atlantic, iiisteud of the Western 
 States. Were it to sink 1000 feet, the stream \vould 
 lluw south-west to the Western States, instead of the 
 hind under the sea about lat. ?Af. 
 
 There are then two scliools of glacialists, — a small 
 ]iarty, who attiibute the phenomena of the drift almost 
 entirely to the action of enormous land-glaciers ; and a 
 larger party, who attribute them chiefly to icebergs. 
 According to some writers, a great elevation of land pro- 
 duced large local glaciers in low latitudes. According 
 to others, a general rise of land about the poles, which 
 confined the ocean to warm regions, intensified polar 
 cold so as to chanfi;e the climate of the whole earth. 
 According to some, the cohl geological period passed 
 away when land and sea were more evenly distrilnited, 
 as they now are. Others, again, explain the facts which 
 all nmst admit by assuming a change in the tempera- 
 ture of tlie solar system, or in the position of the earth's 
 axis. On the facts they found a glacial period, on which 
 they found their astronomical theory. 
 
 Admiring all theories, wedded to none ; attracted by 
 icebergs, attached to glaciers, and anxious to choose 
 between them, the writer set off for Yankeedoodledoi i 
 in search of cold hard facts. 
 
CIIArTEll II. 
 
 LIVERroOL TO HALIFAX. 
 
 i? 
 
 With divided affections, dragged forward by sympathy 
 wiili vagrant icebergs held by the big glacier and by 
 the strong men wlio stand by it, and anxious to steer 
 his own courses the writer started for Labrador in search 
 of facts to be added to a store gathered elsewhere during 
 twenty years. The following pages may help to swell 
 the pile on which truth must finally rest. So now for 
 the journal. 
 
 Steamer Europa, 
 Julv 10, 18G4. Off Ireland. 
 
 I found at the station in a state of mind about 
 
 catching me in America. He might as well hope to 
 lind a needle in a hay -loft. I shall leave him letters at 
 Halifax, and elsewhere, and if he chooses to follow me, 
 I shall be very glad to sec him. I got to Liverpool at 
 o.L"), and slept till eight. At ten, I got on board the 
 ►Satellite, and boarded the Europa with the rest of the 
 passengers, and all their luggage ; and thereupon we 
 sailed. The CJreat Eastern was getting up steam to go 
 
STKWAKKs' I'AKADK. 
 
 31 
 
 ipatliy 
 Liid by 
 D steer 
 search 
 during 
 ) swell 
 .CSV Ibr 
 
 reland. 
 
 
 1 about 
 
 '"''' 
 
 lOpe to 
 
 1 
 '1 
 
 ;ters at 
 
 1 
 
 ■fi' 
 
 ow lue, 
 
 
 p(3ol at 
 
 ,,y 
 
 id the 
 
 
 of the 
 
 yi 
 
 on we 
 
 
 1 to go 
 
 ■ S 
 
 I,. London luv tlie Atlantic^ cnhl.'. ^Ve ("X])('cti'd n race, 
 but slie (bd not start so soon as we did. The Liverpool 
 lads were fu'ing great guns at a taiget, .and we gradually 
 slanted across their line of lire as Ave |)assed out. The 
 shot came slapping across our bows, and then right 
 after us, within a couple of hundred yards. It was 
 curious to M-atch first the smoke, then the heavy 
 ]ilunge, and long afterwards the distant boom of the big 
 gun a couple of miles aM'ay. The Liverpool banks, and 
 the Welsh coast, were covered with haze, and we saw 
 notliiii" till we "ot near Holyhead. There is a haze over 
 tilt,' land now, and we can see nothing to-day, but the 
 weather is deliu'htful. The sun is shining, and a soft 
 breeze blowing right after us ; the sea blue and crisp, 
 and the lazy old ship rolling rpiietly along from side to 
 side with a quiver at every stroke of the paddies. Wind 
 and tide and all in her favour, she cannot make more 
 t)f it than nine knots. A stupid little brat of a steamer, 
 running to the Isle of ]\Ian, went past us yesterday as 
 if we were at anchor We are a numerous crew, with 
 nothing to do, and ten days to do it in. At eight a bell 
 rings, and till 0.30 we may breakfast. At one we have 
 a solid lunch ; at four we dine. Evervthinu at dinner 
 goes on as if by machinery. A row ol' stewards stand 
 in the doorway, and the dishes pass in to the steward 
 

 AN AMI^inCAN TltAMl". 
 
 wiio is at tlio Jicad oi' the coluiiiii, \\l>o drops uiicli 
 disli into its place. As the operation advances, so does 
 the cohinin of stewards, and tlie leader is at the end of 
 the cabin by the time the tiibles are covered. Thoi 
 comes a solemn pause, and then a wink, and all the 
 covers rise simiiltaneonsly, clatter like u flock of gulls, 
 pile themselves in heaps, pass down the line, and dis- 
 a]ipear. T]:ien in such weather as this, it is worry worry, 
 and tlio food disappears down the red lane. Dinner 
 over we smoke, and at seven we tea ; after that we 
 smoke, and at ten we drink night-caps. 
 
 I hear tliat it is very easy to get a small vessel at 
 St. John's, and that there are lotrj of steamers running 
 about in. the Gulf of St. Lawrence ; so I can get away 
 when I get tired of my ship. There are lots of Jersey 
 men established along the gulf, and generally it looks 
 very pleasant in the distance. And now for the cigar 
 of resignation on the quarter-deck of this great Noah's 
 ark. 
 
 One P.M. Here we are at Cork. 
 
 July 12, 1864 At sea. 
 On Sunday we landed at Queenstown, hired a jaunt- 
 ing-car, and drove for an hour and a half up towards Cork, 
 and round by tlie back of the town. I wanted to find 
 
4 
 
 
 ' A LIFK ON TIIK oCKAN WAVK. 
 
 
 '-, eiicli 
 10 does 
 end <»f 
 
 all the 
 [ gulls, 
 id dis- 
 wony, 
 Dinner 
 hat ^v(3 
 
 essel at 
 
 •unning 
 
 t away 
 
 Jersey 
 
 it looks 
 
 le cigar 
 
 Xoalrs 
 
 i- sea. 
 I j aunt- 
 Is Cork, 
 to find 
 
 ict'-iimi'ks ; and, tu my surprise, I saw iicitlicr IhiuKKt.^ 
 iiui' st'rat( Iifs. TIiL driver hkkK'sIIv asked liall'-a-erow ii 
 a lu^ad, ami got it ; t'or we were in a uood liiiiiinur. At 
 '"5.30 we started I'roiii the })ier, with the mails, in a small 
 steamer, and the hig one east louse as wc came along- 
 side. The two vessels, tied together, steanie(l out p;tst 
 Spike Island; and ^hen we got elear of the harhoni', 
 the little one cast loose and went home to Ireland. We 
 saw the old Head of Kinsale in the evening, and at 
 night M'e passed ( a}>e Clear, and made our course I'oi' 
 
 Caj)e liace. As Admiral ust'il to say, " in good 
 
 time l.)e it spoken," we have had glorious weather so 
 far. The wind has been steadv, northerlv and easterlv, 
 and we have carried sail all the way. The air is about 
 C2°, and the water G0°, the sun shining at inter\als, 
 and no swell to signify. Of all our numeroirs comjjany, 
 only half-a-dozen are absent at meal-times, and these 
 eat and drink merrily in bed. The most of us play 
 games of various sorts — draughts, chess, Ijackgammon, 
 whist, ecarte, yucca, etc. — in the saloon ; and on the 
 deck outside there are two games at shuflle-board con- 
 tinually going. Another entertainment is to throw 
 small bags of beans through hoops hung about seven 
 feet from the deck. Tliese are ])astimes ; the occupa- 
 tion of the day is eating. If any one wants perfect 
 
 D 
 
34 
 
 AN A mi; UK AN I'KAMl' 
 
 IVjMiSC (if liiilld iilld ImmIv, tliis ScclllS In lie lli;- rjuhl 
 sll(i|». 
 
 1 hiiVL' iUlleii in witli an old iVii-nd wliom I iiu;! 
 once, fifteen years a^o, af Trondlijeni. lie was u]t a1 
 Alten witli IJ()l)erl (Jliamlieis, and liel[)('(l liini to measure 
 terraces. Since then lie lias l»een a '^w/ai (K-al in South 
 America, and lie is now j^oin.n' f" liolivia. lie says that 
 terraces ahoiiiid in Cliili aloiiL; tliu coast, and U]» the 
 valleys there are Licnerally throe distinct steps at cor- 
 resjionding levels. There aic no ^laciei's, and no iee- 
 marks in any jiart of South America ; where he has 
 iteeii, iif least, he has seen none. lie is L^reat u])on 
 earlli(|uakes. lie says that lu; has often heard the 
 sound risiuLi u]) under his lied, j^etting nearer and nearer, 
 and then lie has felt his l)ed rise under him, as if some 
 imv had lifted it. So have I felt a eumhig outlmrst of 
 tlu! great Oeyser in Iceland. He gave me a curious hit 
 of inform.it ion about an observatory in (,'hili. It was 
 built on a conical hill of basalt, and the transit instru- 
 ment gave all sorts of unexpected results. At last some 
 one iliscovered that the intense heat of the sun made 
 the whole hill exjiand unequally, so as to move the 
 ol)servatorv, instruments ar ' ^1 ; so the light of tlu^ 
 sun is a mechanical ])ower. Except this friend, 1 never 
 saw one of our lot belbiv. 
 
A lIoMK (i\ TIIK KnI.MNi, liKI I'. 
 
 
 • Inly iSii-l. 
 
 ]\',i1„,-.,J(iil \:\. — The wciillicr, tlif siimc; Icnii'oratui'', 
 (lilto ; ciiipldyiiicnt, dilN*. It lias liccii discoviM'od tliat- 
 tlic lirst licuti'iiant and scviU'al of tlio crew ol' tlic * Ala- 
 liaiiia' aiv oii boai'd ; alsn a man wlmni llicy eauj^lit and 
 kept jtrisont']', on l>oard, lor six weeks, al'tei- Imriiinn liis 
 sliip ; also a man belonging to ihe ' Kear.sarge." They 
 kei'ii tlieniselves to tliemselve.s, and, generally, m<' an- 
 a very unsociable lot of mortals. 
 
 yjiursiJ'nj 14. — Yesterday we bad .^■c adventures. 
 We saw a rat. some por[Mii;^e.s, and the ' .MVira,' on ber 
 homeward voyage, about lat. T. 1 I'l*' N.; long. I'll i)~>' 
 W. We I'an 2;'l' nnh's Ix-tween noon and noon, and on 
 till! ll'tli, XV.K In the evening it fell dead ealm, and 
 then the wind shifted right round fi'oni X.K. to S.W., 
 and it beLian to Idow ui) a bit of a bi'eeze. It is now 
 
 O 1 
 
 blowing smartly, and we are s])inning along, making 
 more than ten knots, with lots of sail set. The eaptain 
 who wfis taken bv the ' Alabama' has b(>en confiding hi.> 
 sorrows to one of the (dlicers, who has retailed them to 
 me. lie says that it was unpleasant to lose liis elirono- 
 meter, his (jwn private pro])eity, and to see his wife's 
 dresses ]iut under a table to set the shi]) on lire. 
 
 Friihtii 1."). — Yesterday we saw a bird, a shiji, and a 
 rat. In the eveninu, the wiuil headed us, and then it 
 
 ^ 
 ^ 
 
30 
 
 AN A.MKKlt'AN I'ltA.Mr. 
 
 rdl caliii : iKiw tlif w'wul \< liiick tu S.W'., tlu; sea is 
 sinootli as a iiiill-iioiul, and there is a lliiek log. We are 
 making lO.j, all sail set. 
 
 if it were not for the trenihliiig (»f the shij), this lite 
 would be 'truly rural.' I am awakened by tli(3 crowing 
 oi' a cock and the lowing ol" a cow ; or rather I was, for 
 the cock has ceased to crow, and it is my firm conviction 
 that he was roasted. The Secesh lieutenant is very like 
 a big Llaribaldi. I have been striving to make a por- 
 trait of him, under the table, but T have not managed it 
 yet. This crossing of the Atlantic is a very slow pro- 
 ceeding, and 'that's a fact.' 
 
 Saturihtjj 1(). — In the evening it fell quite calm, and 
 the moon came out brightly. The air was soft and w^.rni, 
 and 1 stayed on deck till near midnight, smoking and 
 enjoviiiLi' the weather. I was roused in the morning by 
 the fog whistle, and found a wonderful change. The 
 water was a great deal colder yesterday ; t(j-day it was 
 only -l7i", and after breakfast we came in sight of ice- 
 bergs. Thei'e was a big one on the horizon, and we 
 passed close beside two small ones. They were beautiful. 
 The fog had vanished, but it could be seen resting on the 
 sea behind us. The sun shone on a bright, sparkling, 
 blue sea, and the icebergs glittered and shone like 
 polished marble streaked with Prussian blue. The 
 
K.fclBKHCs. 
 
 :r 
 
 The 
 
 was 
 
 ice- 
 
 l we 
 
 ti 
 
 ifiil. 
 
 the 
 
 ling, 
 
 like 
 
 The 
 
 "■V 
 
 
 lii^liest of the near ones was about 'M) feet above water, 
 at (iiie-seventh, 210 feet tliiek. About noon, we passed 
 ;i bin' one, distant about ■^iv miles. He looked about the 
 size of the l)ass Itoek, and, through the glass, the iee 
 looked like a sj»liutered cliU'. 1 eould make out veins 
 and strata ol" dark-eoloure(l diit, probably beds of gravel. 
 Uni' b('(l in ])avti(ular was veiy plain. I took the 
 o[>inion of several knowing liands on beard, and we all 
 agreed in estimating the lieight at more than 200 feet. 
 The visible length was about 200 to 300 yards. At one- 
 seventh, this lump was 1400 feet thick. As we are far 
 south of Kngland, in hit. 48" 44', long. 44" :^..V W., ?u\i\ 
 miles from the nearest land, and a long way from the 
 nearest Greenland glacier, this is a good case of transj)ort 
 of drift by sea-ice. There has been a deal of excitement 
 alxnit the bergs. Yesterday, we nearly had a dilVerent 
 excitement. A young Yankee, who seems to be a snob, 
 th(uight proper to talk loud about the late fight, lie 
 said that Semnies had surrendered his ship, and ought 
 to have surrendered himself, but that he had sneaked off 
 like a villain. The big lieutenant could have eaten l.im, 
 and some of the people advised limi to punch his head, 
 but he wisely sjxike to the capttiin, who took the young 
 offender into his cabin and gave him a bit of his mind. 
 1 found him on deck pullinu" at his gloves and fuming 
 
;;x 
 
 AN A.MKUK.AN TKAMI'. 
 
 ti'dut'iiduiislN . A IViciiil WMs iidvisiii;^ liiiii In liiy tlic 
 tiiatti'i Ix'lniv till! autli(»riti('s at Wasliiii^lnii. II<' lias 
 iiww i^rowii (iilin, and tlicic will In- no l>knKlsliid this 
 ImiiU. Now Inr aiiolluT icclicru. 
 
 Su mill 11 17. — W'c saw Iar_ii<' icrlici.ns till sunset, and 
 tlic water (.'(»ntinued cdld. Tlie liery near wliiidi we 
 passed looked like a small wliite spoek on the horizon, 
 and it was thii-tv I'eet hi,L;h at least, Those Mhieh we 
 saw at a distance looked like lar;j;e islands. ( )ne at 
 ahout (il'teeii miles looked very like Mont St. Michel 
 as it a|)pc'urs IVoin A \ ranches ; another was very like 
 .Vilsa Craiu ; a third was like the end of the Isle ol' 
 \Vi|4ht as seen rr(jm iUackiian.n Chine. I lirndy believe 
 that thc\ wer(! as larL;(^ as hills on the i-aiLilish coast. 
 At sunset thei>' e<dours were very heautii'ul, rosepink with 
 Trussiau blue shadows : l»ut tliey wvw. so tar away tlad 
 without a ut»od ulass no details were seen. 
 
 These ar(> sonn' ol' the shapes of the hi,u ones. At 
 one time we not amongst a cluster of small 1.»its. and had 
 lo turn out of our way to av<.>id ihem. They were as 
 l>i,Lt as haystacks, and melted into strannc shapes. They 
 were plnn_nin,Li and I'ockiiig, and the .>ca breakin^i;' over 
 them. II we had lun foul of ihem they would have 
 ■^unk us, or the paddles wouhl ha\e heen smaslu'd, I 
 am in luck thus to see hergs at once. iVs for weather, I 
 
 I 
 
 
t 
 
 si:a-1"<>(;s. 
 
 ;;•.► 
 
 At 
 
 luid 
 
 \v as 
 
 have 
 I 
 
 IC 
 
 r, I 
 
 am tiivd nf jiiiiisinu it. TIh- In^ wliistli- was '^u'nv^ 
 ill till' luoniiii'j, and I'ltu hanks aiv ivstiii^ on ilic 
 li(.ii/(iii licit' ami tlifiv, liul the sim is shining hii.ghlly, 
 and (111' si'a is snindth. The wind is cold and shaii», 
 and wc arc in arctic waUr. hiil it is vciv pleasant 
 suiliiiLf. 
 
 Moiidaij is. — It was (Miiiuus last iii,uht to watch the 
 t'otrs. It si'cmcd as if tin* rcuinii dl' clouds had hccn 
 luwcri'tl to the sea level. The horizon was hard as a 
 board, and tin- air qnitc chnir, hut every here and there 
 a ,nray ^vall of cloud rested on the sea. it came sweep- 
 ing down wind, and when it reached u> the how was 
 hidden from the stern in m moment. The melancholy 
 groans of the fog-whistle Wegun, and the old slii[i, shiick- 
 iiig and groaning every t\\<. minutes, plunged on her 
 way through the dense cloud. In ten minutes it ])asse(l 
 away to leeward as suddenlv as it (/ame ; the niodii 
 shone out, and the groaning ceased. Ahout gi'og-timc a 
 big steamer was seen, and we exchanged rockets and 
 hlue-li«'hts and such like marine civilities. We heard 
 no sound, so the i'og-whistle is of small use. The cap- 
 tain made for the ]>lace where Ca})e liace ought to he, 
 hut he could not see the light, which is [•laced high, and 
 lie held on his course. Thi^ nioininu we lia\'e not into 
 the Ice of Newfoundland, and there is a marvell"us 
 
 •S"Y' 
 
 % 
 
40 
 
 AN AMERICAN TRAMP, 
 
 4 
 
 rlinngo. Tlio water is seven degrees M'armer, and the 
 clouds arc up in tlie air where they ongjit to be. The 
 sun is bright and the air halniy, and the passengers 
 are hard at their usual games. 
 
 Ttnsday 10. — All yesterday very fine and warm. 
 The water getting warmer as we get under the lee of 
 the land. W(3 saw some whales spouting, and a JNIother 
 Carey's chicken, and tlial was the only excitement. 
 
 A gentleman told me part of in's adventures in the 
 evening, lie went up to the diggings in Australia and 
 worked with two otliers till they dug a hole sixty feet 
 dee]). They had then reached a layer of big stones, 
 ' common blue stones,' with the corners rounded oil', 
 and netitl}' packed as if laid by a mason. Tn the chinks 
 they could see the gold glitteiing, and they washed 
 some dirt aiul found it rich. Well plea':;ed, they left 
 their tools in the hole to keep po.ssession, and went to 
 sleep. In the night a pool of water brc>ke in, and when 
 they went to the mine the sides had fallen, and all 
 their tools were buried. All the money they had was 
 invested in the tools, so they walked bacK to INIelbourne, 
 sixtv miles, without 'a red cent/ and the .sailor went 
 to sea again. 
 
 In the night the fog-horn groaned two oi three 
 tiine>. .\(»\\ the sky is blue, and the sun white-hot 
 
HALIFAX. 
 
 41 
 
 id the 
 The 
 
 engeis 
 
 warm, 
 lee of 
 lother 
 t. 
 
 ;n the 
 ia and 
 ;y feet 
 ;toiies, 
 3d off, 
 ;hinks 
 ashed 
 y left 
 
 I'llt to 
 
 when 
 id all 
 1 was 
 ouriie, 
 
 went 
 
 and blighter tlian any sunlight that I have seen since I 
 was in tlie same sonthern latitudes many years ago. 
 Wlien this steamer stops at Boston she will be in the 
 latitude of Eome. When I get north to St. John's, I 
 shall be as far south as Nantes. 
 
 Wcdnrsihiy, July 20, ITalifcLv.—We got in last niglit 
 at a quarter to nine by the time here ; one in the 
 inoruing by London time. We got to this, Halitax 
 Hotel, and then wandei'ed about the streets till all hours 
 of the morning. 
 
 By all accounts here, it will not be easy to get to 
 Labrador, for all the fishermen are gone from Halifax 
 and Xewfoundland. Tf I can't get on I will come back, 
 but I will go as fiir as I can. 
 
 tliree 
 (p-hol 
 
OHAl'TKR III. 
 
 M 
 
 NijVA SCOTIA TO NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 W 
 
 .luly 20, ISlU. Ilalil'ax. 
 IIkkk wi' aiv ii1)uiit the lalitudt' of J>nnk'au\. Asked 
 almut siHii'tiii;4 and icebergs. It seems lliat tliere is no 
 (isliinL!' in Nova Scotia wortliy of tlie name. Ii -^eejiis 
 slriinne tliat so little should lie known ahout neiddxtui'- 
 ini4 colonies. ()idy a few wandering sportsmen know 
 anything altout the places to Avhich 1 am hound ; the 
 ways (tl' Xewl'oundland and Lahrador seem utterly un- 
 known to ' rduenoses.' TricMJ f'ov a chart ol' Lahrador, 
 and found that no good chart exists. 
 
 In the evening drove hy rail to Windsor, forty miles. 
 The route is thr(»ugh a country which is as nature made 
 it. The highest ))oint on the line is ahout 550 feet 
 ahove the st'a. The woods are chii'ily pine, with hard 
 wood and low hiush ; the ground a mass of houhlers 
 antl hai'c I'ocks. Lakes ahound ; and in owe of them, 
 tailed IJorky Lak<\ a <djnitany lia\c eslahlished an ic(>- 
 
■"^.J 
 
 (inlJ*. 
 
 43 
 
 iiilcs. 
 made 
 IVcl 
 liard 
 IdiTS 
 lieiii, 
 
 \v,n^v, with railway coinitlcti^ IV.r c'Xiiortiii'i ice to tlic 
 SlaU.'S and idscwlifiv. AIh.iiI lliirty iiiiK's IVoiii llir 
 • •astoni coast tlu- count iv <]iaii,ucs. TIil' rocks are sol'tcr, 
 and incluilc shales and simdstoncs, limestones and hfds 
 i.f (lav. The country is idcared and well cultivated. 
 The helt uf lorest and wild land extends about 
 twenty miles i'roni the eastern coast all alon,u' Xova Scotia. 
 The (iulf Stream runs nearly east, at a considerahle dis- 
 t;'.nce IVoni the coast. The cold strea.m runs westward, 
 near it. The tide at lEalii'ax rises only lour feet. In 
 lat. 4."" the look ol' the country is the same as in 
 lat. 71 in Norway; hut ln're .are willows, and other 
 such trees, which do iKjt i^row ahout the North Cape. 
 ( lold abounds, and the colonists are in a I'evei' about it. 
 At one j)lace, near the sea, lliey roiuid enouuh to make 
 it ]iav: now thi'V are ([uartx-minini;. Windsor is a neat 
 wooden town on a bran(di oi'the ]5ay of Fundy. It is 
 surrounded by L^ai'dens and ijreen fields; and when we 
 arrived, a \ ast plain of mud stretched as far as the eye 
 eouhl reach. W-ssels on the stocks were I'orty or lil'ty 
 I'eet up, and looked as if they ne\er could uet alioat. 
 After goinj4 to bed, hearil the lushinu of the tide, and 
 ihen ri'meuilu'ii-d ihat (he lide> are famous in this plaie. 
 .V tra\ellin,u uymnast was w alkiiiu iiial( he- auainsl lime, 
 baikwardsand foiward>, with a w heebbarrow and with 
 
 'A 
 
-L4 
 
 AN AMERICAN TKAMI'. 
 
 II ctirt-wliecl, and throwing 50 lbs. over liis heud. Oave 
 the ])0(jr d — 1 a sliilUng; for lie had only got a few 
 eoi)pers lor all his work. 
 
 July 21, 18G4. 
 Windsor, Nova Scotia. — Water 70°, air 80°, at 3 
 P.M. Heat ()p[)ressive after the cold of the sea. Walked 
 about six miles, and made a sketch from the bank above 
 the bridge. The Hood-tide was well worth seeing. A 
 broad j>lain of red mud stretching to the horizon, was 
 suddenly streaked with silver lines, and then the 
 'bor(\' a foot high, came rushing up the narrow lanes 
 of water. It came slowly, roaring hoarsely, and the 
 broad tide spread behind it. In half an hour the broad 
 plain was covered by a wide, red torrent, whirling like a 
 mill-sluice, Ijoiling, eddying, and sweeping everything 
 tliat would float before it. From the water's edge the 
 sea looked like a steep mound of water, a furious rapid, 
 pouring down from the horizon. ]>y 3 P.M. the tide 
 was up to the edge of the wharfs, and the muddy water 
 had cleared in the centre. IVnito came creeping out of 
 odd corners, and the sea was forty feet deep over the plain 
 of mud. According to the sailing directions the tides 
 in the P)ay of Fundy seem to result from the crannning 
 of the tidal wave into a narrow wedge-like oj»(.'iiing. In 
 
TIIK WINDSOR TI1>K. 
 
 4;1 
 
 few 
 
 lung 
 
 
 ! tlie 
 
 
 apid, 
 
 
 tide 
 
 M: 
 
 v^ater 
 
 ,-l 
 
 it of 
 
 
 )lain 
 
 
 tides 
 
 
 iiing 
 
 
 Til 
 
 ■'? 
 
 
 1 
 
 tlu' Jiay nC MiiR's tlu- water soiiietinies rises 7'* ft-et, 
 while the tide in the (lull' of St. Lawreiiee, beyond the 
 narrow isthmus, 10 miles wide, rises S feet. At 
 Windsor, where the tide has to turn round a point, it 
 rises 40 feet. In the wider part of the hay it rises o(l 
 feet only. In some parts of the hay are daiigercnis 
 \vhirl})()ols, where the stream runs nine knots. Tlie 
 bottom seems to be eomposed of the debris of the soft 
 roeks, and it seems highly probable that tlie sea will 
 break through, and make an island of Xova Scotia, 
 unless the land rises. About high-water mark the 
 shore is strewed A\itli ^■ery large boulders of coarse 
 granite, and numerous other stones foreign to this dis- 
 trict. It is evident that this creek is growing larger by 
 the wearuig of its banks. They are undermined at 
 high-water mark. The rock near the bridge is a soft 
 limestone full of fossils, interstratitied witli beds of 
 loose clay dipping at a liigli angle. 
 
 In winter the ]jay of Fundy freezes, and this great 
 tide packs the ice till it looks ' like the boulders on 
 shores.' No doubt the ice moves the granite boulders and 
 cuts into the grooved bank like a big siiw. Ice-marks 
 abound in this district. In Halifax I took several rubbings ; 
 and at the summit level, ooO/a'/, took some more. The 
 natives supposed that I was prospecting for gold, and 
 
40 
 
 AN A.MKUICAN TH.vMl' 
 
 wciv vt'iy much iut(.'r("^t((l in the ]»roceediiigs. Tlic; 
 (lii'(;ctitiii is about X. ,">."> W. to S. .V) K. Tlic tlircctioii ol 
 tiic dull' Stroam S. 7(i W. Tiio. trend of tlic coast S. 
 r»0 W. There are no hi<j;h mountains to account ior 
 local glaciers, and the marks on the highest tops corre- 
 spond in direction with marks near the sea-level twenty 
 miles away. The l)onlder-chav contains fragments of 
 sandstone, and the coal-measures are to the X. oO' 1']. 
 in Cape lireton, and X.W. in Xew Jhimswick. Saw 
 several Indian cam])s. The small l)oys came to the 
 train to stare antl sell strawberries. The men carried 
 guns, and dressed like English gamekeepers. The 
 women werf wild-looking, and very pictnrescpie : their 
 walk, a jieculiar stride like the gait of men who in 
 ►Sweden walk im snow-shoes. The wiii'wams were 
 made of l)irch-bark and lir-])oles, conical, with a hole 
 in the top. These peo})le are ^licnuics, and speak 
 Kn^lish and their own language. The forest was burn- 
 ing in a dozen places, set on lire by cinders from the 
 cuiiine. 
 
 In the evening went on board the steamer Delta, and 
 slept in a small cabin with five other big men. Conse- 
 (|uent mutual snlfocation considerable. 
 
 Ji'l// 22, 18(14— /•'/7V/r///.— Start at 1(». Coast bold 
 and hills roundeil, but weather hazv ; sea smooth, fair 
 
Tlic, 
 
 It ItoUl 
 111, fair 
 
 SYLtNKY, <A1'K UKKToN. 
 
 4 
 
 -t ( 
 
 u iiul, Vessel luUine- alM>iiiinal»ly all day. Lots ul' sliips in 
 sight. In tliu moruing in sight nf Flint Islands, im which 
 thi'vc is a lighthoiisu. Tlioiv is a ga]) ht'twccn these 
 islands. A tew years ago tliore was a ibot-bridgc across 
 the gajt, now it has bocoriK^ a wide doop passage. This 
 roast is therefore w<.'aring rapidly ; it is broken In" the 
 undermining of waves and the battering ol' ice. The rock 
 is sandstone, in beds nearly horizontal. Coal is seen 
 in the cliM's, dip X. Made Sydney at 10.15, twenty- 
 live boms IVoni Ifalil'ax. A fine section of the coal-nica- 
 siives is in the sea-clifl's. There is not a single i'anlt or 
 dyke in many miles, apparent di}) X. 10.° The hills 
 are about three or I'our lumdred I'eet high, t'ores^-clad ; 
 trees low, soil thin, and strewn with boulders of 
 granite and other hard rocks. The vegetation is very 
 lik(^ that of Scandinavia — stunted pines, birch, and 
 hard wood, nuiltiberries in the bogs, and strawberries 
 aliundant. One coal-mine is about live miles from the 
 sea, and has a railwiiy. The temperature of the water 
 at the bottom is 47^, air 08' outside; it is oGO feet deep. 
 The average temperature of the i)lace may therefore be 
 taken at 41' as marked bv iJove. It is near the lati- 
 tud(; of La Iioclielle, wheri; the average temperature is 
 "•.J . A similar cold temperature on the European coast 
 is found north of IJergen, and the isothermal line passes 
 
 ■■.■«-- 
 
48 
 
 AN A mi: UK AN THA.MI'. 
 
 near tiic sfjiith of Ict^Iaiid. TIil' ii})pc'uraiici! of tlie coviii- 
 try coincides witli thu ascci'taiued uliinati'. It is very 
 like Norway, very unlike La liocliclle, in sunny Franee. 
 The colonists are chiefly ]Ii«^l)landrrs I'roni Uist, Bavra, 
 Inverness, and other parts of the llij;hlands. Grown 
 men who wore born in the colony, children, and people 
 who came from the old country, all speak (Jaelic. ^Many 
 are nourishing farmers, others ^vork in the mines, and 
 earn as much as *ten shillings a day.' Asked many of 
 them if they thought more emigrants would succeed. 
 The answers were various; hut the substance is that young 
 men will find plenty of employment, and that a man 
 with a strong family is sure to succeed. The winter 
 cold is the great drawback. A cute Irishman o]i Ijoard 
 the steamer, who is said to be a famous farmer in New- 
 foundland, held the Cai)e Breton people very cheap ; 
 he pointed out that Yankees come all the wny from 
 Boston to catch the fish which none of these fellows will 
 catch themselves. The mines are worked by Yankee 
 companies, and the farmers allow themselves to be 
 cheated by hucksters, who buy their produce cheap and 
 retail it to the ships. At one farm he found a man uell 
 to do but a wretched farmer. He asked why he did not 
 lime his land, as there was excellent lime beside him. 
 ' Oh,' said the other, ' I did (jnce, but the grass grew a 
 
CAl'K nUETON I'AItMIN<;. 
 
 49 
 
 lieap ; 
 
 
 ' from 
 
 
 ;h will 
 
 
 'aiikee 
 
 
 to be 
 
 
 ip and 
 
 ■f 
 
 11 Mfll 
 
 T 
 
 id not 
 
 
 li him. 
 
 -1 
 
 jrew a 
 
 
 
 4* 
 
 yard liigli, and T was afraid tliat 1 would tidvc all the 
 L^ood out of it at (•uce, so I have novt'r hird it again.' 
 Why did he not put on the .sea-ware whieli was j.iU'd 
 upon the shore in vast mounds ? 'Oh, that burned ihe 
 urass riuht off.' ' In short/ said th(^ man, ' J don't want 
 to do better, I am well cuough.' This Mas an J^iglish- 
 nian; but the principle is very like that of the old coun- 
 try of ]\rrs. ^Taclarty. Went into sundry houses and 
 found the usual familiar untidy ways. ()ne fellow had 
 built a round end of loose .stones at the end of his wooelen 
 shanty. As this round-ended architecture is connnon in 
 the Hebrides, asked if he did not come from the 
 islands. He did, from Barra. The old fandliar High- 
 land manner here in the new world was polite as ever. 
 One fellow with a black face led me to an Indian camp. 
 Found scpmws making baskets ; the men were at work 
 stowing coals in the steamer, and doing such-like work. 
 One woman was really pretty. Tn winter there is a great 
 deal of ice in this harbour. The rocks at the water's 
 edge are ground and rounded. The beach was (juite 
 different from anything which 1 have seen on the other 
 side of the Atlantic. Searched in vain for bare rocks on 
 shore. So went on board the steamer and sailed. This 
 country is in a very primitive state. Directly the 
 town is left, the wild forest begins. It is a maze of 
 
 E 
 
 m 
 
50 
 
 AN AMKRICAN TIIAMI'. 
 
 taiiyhid plants growing in niiusliy hollows, and u wilder- 
 ness of i»in(' thickets on stony lock hills. In striving 
 to run a hce-line towards tlic^ coal-mines, which wo had 
 seen from t)\e steamer, we got faiily astra}, and only 
 made our point by steering so as to hit the railroad. 
 Plants and landsea])es resemble those of Scandinavia, 
 about 00°. The temperature of the ^^•ater in the coal- 
 liiine proves that the earth itself is no colder here than it 
 is in Europe, but the temperature of the sea is very differ- 
 ent. There is a cold current outside, inside in the Bay 
 of Fundy it is less cokl, and the difference in climate is 
 proved by the aspect of the countiy. On one side is an 
 English landscape with Indian corn added, on the other 
 •within forty miles is the bleak north. It is question- 
 able whether a farmer gains by moving three thousand 
 miles from a rocky sea-coast where the average tem- 
 perature is 50°, to another equally rocky sea-coast where 
 the temperature is 41°. If men will not fish and can- 
 not farm at home, wdiy should they farm and fish better 
 without help or instruction in a worse climate, and a 
 far wilder sea abroad ? The general feeling amongst these 
 men appeared to be strong regret for their old haunts, and 
 a yearning towards a countryman. ' These shores are not 
 like our shores,' they said. 'This cold, gloomy, bleak win- 
 ter is not like our own.' ]\lany who only knew of the old 
 
TUAN8PLAiNTKI» IIKIIILANDKUS. 
 
 r>i 
 
 ikler- 
 •iviiig 
 e had 
 only 
 Iroad. 
 lavia, 
 coal- 
 lan it 
 iiffcr- 
 ! Bay 
 ate is 
 is an 
 other 
 stion- 
 isand 
 tem- 
 ^'hei'ci 
 can- 
 )etter 
 md a 
 these 
 , and 
 e not 
 win- 
 le old 
 
 country from their gj'and.sires or their neigh lioiirs, asked 
 if the ot)ier side was not a very different land. Pliilan- 
 thro])ists wlio Itenefit tenants hy lielping tliem over the 
 sea, would do well to study Dove's isotherms, and the 
 effects (tf ice on climate. 
 
 ►Strong breeze, Ijright sun. 
 
 Smuhij, J til II 24.— At sea ; strong l.)reez(\ vessel 
 rolling fearfully, and n good sea on. llan nitlier close 
 to the Xewfoundland coast in a haze, and clawed off ; 
 then made for Ca])e liace, which we passed in the nioht 
 for the second time without seeing the light. 
 
CIIAPTEIi IV. 
 
 HT. JOHNS TO STRAITS 01" HKLLKISLR. 
 
 Monday, Jnhj 25—0.30 A.M.— Arado St. John's. Tlic 
 coast al)out Capo Spoar is fine, liills aliont 500 foot 
 lii^li, with bnisli and .stuntod |)ino j^rowing on thoiu. 
 The rocks are red sandstone, evidentjy veiT much 
 glaciated, dipping at liigli angles. The entrance to 
 tlio harbour is through a narrow ]»assage guarded hy 
 forts. Tlu! harbonr itself is in a hollow, Jit right angles 
 to the entrance. All the town turned out to see all the 
 military anthorities salute the general commanding, who, 
 with his aide, turned out in full fig — cocked hat and 
 spurs. The ' Ariel' was to start next day for ' the 
 Labrador ;' so went on board, and found a filthy stearaer, 
 stinking most villanously. A place forward, newly 
 painted, seemed the least bad, so chose a lierth. The 
 place in question was the forehold, roughly boarded 
 over, and with twelve bunks rudely set up at the sides. 
 They were too short for a man of ordinary dimensions, 
 too low for connnon shoulders to lie on edge ; to get in 
 
CIIEAJ' ANlJ NASTY. 
 
 r»3 
 
 i»y 
 
 was 11 Hyiuiia.stic Icat ; to lii- still, a violent t'Xtjrtion ; 
 lo jj;t.'t (Jilt, an i'\|tl(»it. To stand iqiriLilit on iIk' lluor 
 was iiM})o.ssil>lL'. The j)aint was wet ; l»iit tlicrc wjis a 
 (•oni[tanion-liutcii which could not be closed, so IVesh 
 air must circulate below ; the screw was aft ; the paint 
 would dry ; the blankets were new ; the sheets, though 
 coarse blown holiand, wcie i'resh from the sh(.[). It was 
 the least dij^nilied part <il' tht' ship — smoking was al- 
 lowed ; and so the ibreholdof the ' Aritd' was chosen I'or 
 a home on the ocean wave. Passage up and down, and 
 food ibr three weeks, £6 sterling ; cheaji and nasty. 
 
 \\'alked u[) to the top of the signcil-hill, and found 
 ice-marks very well preserved ; the direction nearly at 
 right angles to the coast. Tlidc docs not seem to be 
 anything })eciiliar in the water-line ; yet this harbour 
 freezes, and sea-ice drifts in and (Jut every year. Tlu; 
 marks on the hill were not made by shore-ice of this 
 descri[)tion ; on the other hand, tlujy p(.iint directly 
 across the main valleys and fjords of the i.sland, and 
 there is no higher ground from which local glaciers 
 could come, and yet the marks are perfect on the sand- 
 stone. This mu.st be the work of sea-ice, like that which 
 passes to the eastward in spring. We are here in the 
 latitude of Nantes. There is an iceberg now in St. MaiVs. 
 Karlier in the year, sailing vessels, which got into the 
 
M 
 
 04 
 
 AN AMEIUCAN TIJAMl' 
 
 ice far nortli, drifted down past 8t. John's, witli bergs 
 and |iack-ice, in one great moving mass, lo(.) miles wide. 
 The sea-coast consists of cliffs and round rocks at the 
 water-line. It is said that the land is rising now. 
 
 Jidij 20, Munddjj. — Sail at 10.30; very line and 
 warm, hright sun, wind off shore. Crowds on hoard 
 going to a regatta at Harhinir Grace, and to places all 
 down the coast. The coast is high as far as Cape St. 
 Francis. The section is very fine ; at one place the Leds 
 run in long folds, uhich are planed offal the top — a more 
 con.sjncuous instance of denudation could not be conceived, 
 and because of the marks on Signal-hill the [)lane was ice. 
 The outline of the upper country has nothing to do 
 with the geological formation below. It has been shorn 
 over by some great ice-engine, but the la.st movement 
 here was across the bays and valleys. Lauded at 
 Harbour Grace. Found great nuisses of terraced drift 
 resting on j)olished striated rocks. Here the direction 
 agrees with the shape of the country in some degree ; 
 but the stria', though perfectly well marked, do not run 
 down the harbour ; they cross it diagonallv, and seem 
 to run northwards. The marks on the shore where bay- 
 ice abounds do not resemble these in the least. A large 
 square island of ice, about eighty or one hundred feet out 
 of water, wjis aground in Conception Bay. The chart 
 
' BREAKERS AHEAH " 
 
 .'.)•■) 
 
 m 
 
 out 
 lart 
 
 givL'S 4') and 113 I'atliuiiis (270 and JO feet). At the rate 
 of oue-wseveiitli, lUO feet above gives GOO below. Sketched 
 the bi'iu' a.s we pas.sed it, but saw no sign of a stone on 
 tlie ic<'. It was of the colour of white marble, lustrou.-s 
 and shining, but .shaded with blue ; some veins looked 
 like brilliant la[)is lazuli, l)Ut we were too far olf to see 
 it well. A \\li(»le lleet (jf small pieces were drifting 
 from it out of the bay before the wind. In the middle 
 of the night there was a disturbance. A reverend ' bay- 
 man ' went on dock a-..! saw breakers, upon which he 
 shouted, 'breakers ahead!' The caj)tain, who took him 
 lor one of the crew, cursed him, and asked if he had 
 only Ju.st seen them. No one stirred in our l)unk ; Init 
 the fact was, that the vessel had nearly run stem on to 
 a cliff in a thick fog. 
 
 Wcdiicsdaij 27. — Landed at 5 A.M., and walked in 
 a tog to a hill-top. Perched blocks here and there ; 
 but the rocks were all weathered, though rounded. Came 
 down and Joined the crowd. Went to breakfast at a kind 
 of lodguig-house, where the pork tasted of lod-liver oil, 
 and the eggs were abominable. Got a wash and \\ent 
 on board again. The dip of the rocks 42 ' S. Steamed to 
 Catalina from Trinity. Landed again and walked to the 
 top of another hill. Rock yellow, shity ; dip 14 ' "NV.N.AV. 
 Cleavage E.S.E. o4", magnetic. At thi.s place the ice 
 
50 
 
 AN AMEKIUAN TKAMl' 
 
 in winter extended 14U niilcs from- tlic cua.st. It was 
 the mass in wliicli tliu sualcrs j^ot eutanglcHl. All the 
 cod have Liune awav, and some knowim*" cards attribute 
 their departure to tlie unusual (|unntity ot" iee. It is 
 said that fish were picked up dead, and that lumps of 
 ice were found in their stomachs. It is supposed they 
 swallowed the ice and died of cramp. Rounded Cape 
 Buonavista and sighted an iceberg. Landed at Buona- 
 vista, a large place in a port o[)en to the westward. The 
 town stands in a lioUow, on vast terraced masses of 
 glfieial drift, consisting of gray ela}', with large boulders 
 of gianite, black marble, and numerous otlier liard rocks ; 
 many of these are scratched and polished. The rock of 
 the cKuntry is sandstone ; the wat(!r-line is broken, and 
 the b(/ultler-(day undermined so as to leave a terrace. 
 The coast is like beaches elsewhere, but worn and 
 rubbed in s[)()ts. The hills are all rounded and of one 
 pattern. No striated rocks were found in the town, 
 and tlieie v,as no time to search fui'ther. Steamed to 
 King's Cove and anchored Ibr tlie niiiht. I'assed an ice- 
 berg aground l)elow a liouse. Tlie wliite mass con- 
 trasted strangely with the green hills, corn-land, and 
 while walls of the f.irm-house. Landed with a coni- 
 I'ado. This genius is wild about licasure-seeking. lie 
 pointed out several jilaces where treasure is bui'ied, and 
 
■<s 
 
 TIIK DIVlNINil-KUl). 
 
 0< 
 
 told no end of storius about his adventures, lie has 
 a divinin,L;-rod, which is a great secret, fur which many 
 would .i^ive him Large sums of money ; hut he knows 
 better than to tell them anything about it. A man 
 who taught him the art of using it, proved the value of 
 the article by finding a i)ose of silver. lie put two 
 pounds in silver in a liandk(;vchief, and hid it in a bar- 
 ren moor, ' where no man would think of looking.' They 
 went to the place, and the rod led the diviner to the 
 very spot. According t(j the account of the narrator, he 
 must have gone dancing about his pose like a hen part- 
 ridge with a nest, while the operator prowled round and 
 pretended to be dragged from his path by the rod. When 
 they got close together, the man -who hid the plunder 
 pulled it out himself in a transport of joy ; the other 
 sacked it, and he got the stick. An article in the Qn.ar- 
 ti'i'lij lu:cicii\ some years ago, attributed the phenomena oi" 
 biology, talile-turuing, and mesmerism, to 'suggestion.' 
 This is a case in i)oint. An olhcer in the navy had 
 given him some useful hints about making the engine ; 
 in particular, lie had told him to put mercury into it. 
 Seeing me at work with \arious glasses and instruments, 
 he attached himself to me, and we set off for a scrand)le. 
 Walked to the tops of two hills, the highest in sight. 
 <'iH' was !i regulai' scramble over lu'dken rocks, an<l 
 
 
 
58 
 
 AN AMERICAN TUAMP. 
 
 through very rough forest grcjund. Vegetation, ])erries, 
 ferns, and sniiill pines. The view was fine. On coming 
 
 down ^^r. spoke out ; * Well now, this is the 
 
 last time we shall b(i together ; you might as well tell 
 a fellow how to make a divining-rod.' ' Well,' said I, 
 ' I'll tell you all I know about it, but it is all nonsense ;' 
 and then I told him about the hazle rod, but the worthy 
 man was not half pleased. He said that he knew a 
 man who had found a great treasure lately. He had 
 seen a bit of the \erv box in which it was stowed. But 
 two fellows v.'cre beforehand with him. They went at 
 night and took the treasure, thii'ty thousand pounds, 
 with which they de])arted for the States. One bought 
 a mill, and the other a iarm, and they are both alive 
 and nourishing. Found a man who spoke Gaelic, and 
 reads a Gaelic bible ; and went to his house with a worthy 
 missionary from Xova Scotia, who is bound for the 
 Labrador. We had a sociable glass of cold spring water, 
 and then wandered down to the fish-stage, wdiere we sat 
 admiring the beauty of the night. In the midst of our 
 talk, a strange, low^, wild, cldrich whimpering yell, like 
 the howl of a wdld beast, startled me. '^Vllat's that?' I 
 said. ' Oh, it's only the dog,' said the Highlander. 
 ' Do you know what he's at ? All the dogs here have 
 something of the wolf in them, and at night they answer 
 
 4 
 4 
 
CANINE CrSTuM.S. 
 
 :.!♦ 
 
 oiR* aiiotljL'i', — li.sti'ii.' Aceortliiii^ly wc listened, and 
 froiii all sides <irtlie still harbour there sudilenly s])ran<;- 
 ail answer to the ehnlleiiL;e <>i" our du<4' ; it was a ehoriis 
 of howliiiLi', vellin-', and \vliinii)erinLi-, ^vlliell rose and i' 11 
 and di<'d away in the distanee, to he taken up a^'ain hy 
 still more (hstant country dogs. With the singing ol' the 
 niosipiitoes, the rip])le of the sea, and the still (juiet of 
 the nighi, it was a strange, wild scene. After a deal of 
 shouting got a hoat and went on hoard, and to hed. 
 Every one has heard of Xewfoiin ^and dogs, and every- 
 body wants to get one. They ought to be ]»retty large, 
 quite black, with rough waving shiny hair, black roofs to 
 their mouths, mild wi.se faces, and long tails, with a slight 
 curl at the end. There is hardly a specimen of the pure 
 breed h'ft in the conntry, and the few that remain are 
 prized. The small smooth black Labiiulor dog is not so 
 much valued. Packs of cross-bred brutes of all sizes 
 prowl about all these coast settlenient.s. They feed on 
 iish ofTal, and seem to be a highly independent ei.>m- 
 inunity. Venturing once to pat the head of a venerable 
 brown shaggy dog, who looked like a fat, slee])y, good- 
 natured bear, my hand got an ugly Sipieeze, which 
 was followed by growling and grinning, and gnashing of 
 teeth. Head and tail went down, and l)ristles went ujt. 
 and the old bnite looked perfectly savage and sulky as 
 
GO 
 
 AX AMERICAN TRAMP 
 
 lung as we kepi e tiii])any. Tliese dugs help the men to 
 drag blubber un the ice in .sealing times, and fatten un 
 dead si'als. Tliev are allies, rut slaves or hired servants. 
 Tlnirsddij 28. — Steamed tu Green's Fund, passing 
 several large ieeberL's agnjund. The island is a broad tor 
 about 180 i'cet high. There is very little soil on it, and that 
 little is peat. The vegetation is arctie ; rein mo.ss, Indian 
 tea, crow! terries, bake-ap[iles, and such like. The houses 
 are perched upon weathered granite, all ground into one 
 shape. jMany houses are on separate rocks, and cannot 
 be reached without a boat. At the end of the harbour 
 is the churchyard — surely the strangest that man ever 
 made. All the tombstones l(3an, except those which 
 have fallen d(jwn. One records the age of a girl who 
 died in IcSOS, and begs her parents U) weep no more. 
 It stands about three feet above the sea, and close to 
 the edge of a peat Ijank. On looking over, there was 
 the cullin in the sea, with the bones of the poor girl rol- 
 ling about in it. The sea has encroached on the 
 churchyard : but the inhabitants do not seem to care, 
 for their path from house to house skirts this grave, 
 and the bums are visible tu all who care to turn their 
 heads. Thi.s looks a.s if this jtart of the coast were not 
 I'ising but sinking. The cliurchyard, however, is still 
 used, audit is said that coJlins are scuttled and anchored 
 
A MARITIME ClIUnCIIYAIlI). 
 
 61 
 
 le 
 
 4 
 
 with stones in ju-at graves wliich lill witli sea-wuter as 
 soon as they are made. Tlie l)()g is the only soil on the 
 island deep enough i'or a grav(! : there is very little of it, 
 and hoats and vi'ssels rnn their prows against the bank, 
 and wear it away. Still the fact remains, that a peat- 
 moss is partly ul)merged. Unless peat was wasrhed 
 down, this spot has sunk with the plants uhich grew 
 in the rocky hollow. Stopped all day, as a fog came 
 on, and the next bit of the voyage is dangerous. 
 Walked about with sundry agreeable shijunates. Found 
 a curious plant, Indian cup by name. It has a yellow 
 flower like a waterlily, iind the leaves are like 
 small pitchers. These till with water, and nourish the 
 plant in dry weathei'. The root is said to bo a cure for 
 small-pox. l\)und a garden in wliicli potatoes and pot- 
 herbs were flourishing amongst a litter of cod-head.s. 
 The owner was fishing, but the wife did the honours of 
 lier cabin. Nine-tenths of these people seem to be Irish, 
 and the accent of tlie wholo colony is a decided brogue. 
 Studied the rocks at the sea-level, and found them very 
 smooth, but not striated. There is a wide sea-margin 
 above higli-water mark, upon which nothing grows, and 
 no sea-weed grows on the rocks below water. There are 
 no limpets, and very few shells of any kind. A few 
 small whelks crawl about, and in chinks a few white 
 
GL' 
 
 AN AMKUICAN TKA.MI'. 
 
 barnacles are to be found. It seems that l)ay-ice rubs 
 everything from the stone ; but at a short distance from 
 liigh-water mark, tlio lock is weathered. The trend of 
 the island is N.W. magnetic. A more dreary desohate 
 human camp it is liard to imagine ; but ]je(»]>le live here 
 all winter, and the sliops make fjrtunes. Got some tea at 
 a Uvjat little liouse kept by a lady, who gave us tea with 
 real cow's milk, dr; ' cr'ni, fried ham and rggs. Some 
 Indians from the fnt • lov, ;. nied with bows and arrows, 
 crossed to the sottlemeut, an i ''owled about the houses 
 and slumps buying stores and drink. Unfortunately they 
 depart(3d before I saw them. A pretty little girl at one 
 house had got a nest of young chickens in a l)ox ; but 
 they were ^lotlier Carey's chickens, and she was feeding 
 her pets with dainty bits of cod-liver. These strange 
 little webfooted sea-swifts breed here in great numbers. 
 This wild place corresponds nearly to the Seilly Isles, 
 where cacti flourish, and geraniums grow to be hedges 
 ten or twelve feet high. In winter the whole sea freezes ; 
 sometimes the drift is hundreds of miles wide, and the 
 sounds are roads. There is scarce a fragment of a shell 
 on the beach on one shore, on the other is shell-sand. 
 One great difficulty in exploring glacial drift is the ab- 
 sence of shells ; if shells be so rare on the beach in this 
 latitude now, their chance of preservation in old drift was 
 
Sl'OHT IN CORNISH LATITUDF.S. 
 
 63 
 
 small. Future goologists niiiy hunt ior tlirm in vain 
 Inre, as geologists do now olsewlieiv. 
 
 Friihnj, 2'.> — Air 48 , M'atcr 4G\— Sun sliiniiig, wind 
 N., 11 A.M. Steamed througli a l(jt uf reefs and small 
 islands. Passed Cap(! Freels and the "Wadhnms, and 
 ran into Fogo. This is a queer little harbour, with two 
 entrances ; a lu-avy sea was running, and as we came out 
 the vessel ran wrj near some nets. If the screw had 
 caught, we should have been wrecked to a certainty, for a 
 veiy heavy swell was setting us broadside on to ^^)o 
 rocks. The people ran out to look at us. 
 
 There is a low neck of rock here, and on it >.: in- 
 were well enough marked to take a rubbing. \\en' ;o 
 the top of a hill and found nothing but broken s^ ^te''od 
 sand.stone rocks. Han in to Toulinguet, and anchored 
 for the night. Laad<'d and went to a merchant's house, 
 where a young agent entertained us with baccy and 
 
 firotf. 
 
 n o 
 
 About thirty sealing vessels were lost this year. Tn 
 March, the whole spring fleet first tried to get outside the 
 ice, and, failing, tried to work up inside of it. Off Tou- 
 linguet, they were all jammed hard and fast. Fifteen hun- 
 dred men used to walk ashore from their vessel.s, and thev 
 were quartered on the inhabitants. Tlie place is neat 
 and well built, and about it there is a great deal of cul- 
 
G4 
 
 AN AMERICAN TFJAMI'. 
 
 tivation — potatoes aud pot-licrbs tlouiisli. Then; are 
 well-j,n"»i\vii llrs licrc and llicro ; and wild-roses, and such- 
 like plants, show a tolerable climate. In latitude, the 
 jdace corres])onds to the Scilly Tsles. The wood for the 
 hous(;.s .ind stages is ijol from the head of tlie l)iiy, al)Out 
 the liiver of Ivxjiloits. Some of the lo,us wi re tlnv(! feet 
 round, A few years a^uo, jireat lierds of seals came olf 
 this harbour, and many were killed. The men walked 
 six to ten nules out to sea, and killed the seals with 
 guns and clubs. 'I'he big ones are called ' hai'iis,' und 
 show fight ; the young ones are hel]»l('ss. As soon as 
 slain, tlio scjals are llensi'd, and the Ijlubber and skins of 
 five or six are made; i)ito a package. Dogs and men are 
 harnessed to this bundli', and the spoil is dragged homo. 
 Our host went out himself, and slew a lot of seals, with 
 which he was proceeding on his homeward march, when 
 a cry was raised of, ' Slip your seals and run.' The ice 
 was opening, lie .stuck to his .seals, but he presently 
 came to an o])en lane of water. Others joined, and they 
 broke oil' a piece of ice and ferried themselves across ; 
 but there was another lane before them. Here another 
 piece was freighted, but, this time, there was a man too 
 many on board, and the ice-raft began to sink. There 
 was a shout of ' Leap for your lives,' and one leapt into 
 the vater and swam. They all got safe to land at last, 
 
M.ll' VnllJ SKA1,> AND IILN. 
 
 U5 
 
 Ijiit thfiL' were liuii(liv<l?> uutsidc, aiid the whuif scu wna 
 opening'. Jt Mas a wild and Irarfiu scnu'. Distracted 
 woMicii, (t!i tliL' shore, wcri' shrifkin^u and wringiii;^' tlicir 
 hands; di)</.s were Jiowlini^' in all directions ; and nicn and 
 doj^.s were stru^'ulinn in the wv uulsiilc A sudd(Mi chan^i^e 
 of" wiml didvc the jiack aslioi-c aijain, and the men were 
 saved — all but two, \vho jx-ri^hcd. 'I'he ice l)reaks up 
 here in dune, sonietinies in ilie end ol' duly. The .sea 
 freezes to a thickness of ei^liteen inclies in the luirlxnir, 
 but tin: }iaik and hirgt; bergs come (hilling IVom the 
 nnrtln\cird, and j'ani on tins licadland. One berg came 
 in this year behind a hill, and the top was seen l'r<tni the 
 shore of ihu harbour. Thf hill is 270 feet high (by 
 aneroid), so the berg must have been over oOO feet higli. 
 It broke u[» on the shoi-c, and fell to pieces with a noi.se 
 like thunder, or like the liriiig of heavy guns. A 
 similar account of the death of an island of ice was given 
 by an old man, at King's Cove. The water there is deep, 
 and large bergs connnoidy drift to the mouth of tie- 
 harbour. There they ground, and pour d<jwn streams of 
 excellent pure fri'sh water. From time to time, the 
 island starts and groans ; moves and changes its line ol" 
 notation. At last, with a final roar, it bursts asuntler. 
 Like a dying whale, it makes a great Hurry, and then the 
 fragments set (df on separate cruises. How the peoph' in 
 
 F 
 
c.t; 
 
 AN ami: I! I (AN TUAMl'. 
 
 St. Ilclii-is (.r Faliiidutli would stiiri' if u tiling as big as 
 llif cliri' at tliL' cud olMcrscy or the Laud's Kud were to 
 sail in aud (•.Ni)lnd(' there! After wandering about in 
 the dark, for some time, got a boat, and went on board. 
 
 ,^»/<'nlfn/ no— Air 48^ wat(U' 40".— Off Little r.elle- 
 isle. L'ebergs in siglit when the tem]>erature was taken, 
 wind south ; long mlji rs from the noith. Passed near a 
 small berg, which rose abcmt 40 feet out of water. Made 
 a sketch, and got the i)ilot to steer close to it. It was 
 perfectly clean, aud looked like translucent white marble 
 veined with I'russian blue. Lhe vessel had hardly ])assed 
 when one of these Itlue veins opi-ned about a foot, and 
 the berg slid ,so as to jdter its line of flotation. It made 
 a Itaid, haish, rattling sound, like near thunder, aud 
 rocked to and fro. Then it gave a second loud gi'owl and 
 settled. The captain shook his head, and said we were 
 a great deal too near. This sound gave a better measure 
 of the si/(^ than the look of the thing. It must have been 
 400 feet thick and 200 long. ]*assed many others of far 
 larger size, but the ca]itain gave them all a M'ide berth : 
 some were guessed at 200 feet high, and they Wi^re cer- 
 tainly loO above water. ]\Iost of this day out of sight 
 of land, or nearly so ; passed Belleisle in the straits in 
 the night, and made ITndy Harhotn' at 5 A.M. 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 ,-.0 
 
 16 
 

 MAP 
 
 PRtSENT POSITION 
 
 MAiilM-: r.i.vriAi, 
 I' i: i: I n i> * 
 
 
 ( .ChitilfsXi^W''* 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 nLBinVABDI. 
 
 
 \ 
 
 \ 
 
 \ 
 
 
 i * ■•*A. . •■ /I'Ai 
 
1 
 
 t 
 
 
 
 t 
 
 a 
 
 F 
 
 ]i 
 
 a 
 n 
 1j 
 
 15 
 C 
 
 (1 
 
 w 
 
CllAPTKIi V 
 
 THK I,.\HI!AlH)l;, 
 
 SuikIkij, 31 — Air A'l\ wwiryW",^ — a.m., ri>l<l aihl cliccr- 
 k'.s.s. — Till' lir.st viiw n'i tlic I.alii'adnr coast i.s very liko 
 tlic west coast oj' Scotland ; lor instance, the Sound 
 • •r }s\\\\\ withdiit the \\\'j}\ liills ; out one strange con- 
 trast is tlie ice. Lar;^^' nias.ses were stranded every- 
 where in tile olliii'^r iind alon^ slioic. '|'lie\ looked pale 
 and "^liastlN in tlie vdlow ninrniii'' li'.dit. Tlidv were 
 patches ot' snow (»n the liill>, and ^reat Wct pillows of 
 Jiiist laid on their sides and toj»s. Tlie>e hills are not 
 ahove three or I'our hiindicd Icet hi-h, and all of one 
 round pattern, except a square hill ui' eolunmar hasalt, 
 ))L'side lleiil\- ilarhoiir. 
 
 Now, tlii> place is aliout the latitude of l.ciiidon, the 
 iJristol Channel, and the .south (.f Ireland. The water 
 is 37" in duly ; at the other side it is ne\er so cold, 
 even in the dead of winter. 'I'he ivason of the marked 
 (lillev.'Uie in veectatiou i- tlie (liniate. The ( liniate 
 iv.sults I'roni the dirueti(jn taken hy tiie Aictic Current, 
 which hrings a '' • jlhi of ice, It never ends. As fa.sL 
 
cs 
 
 AN A.Mi:i;l( AN THA.Ml'. 
 
 as •die isliiiiil <>{' ice tiiounds and liuists, aiintlid' takes 
 It- )>la(i', and in wintrr ihc wlmlc sti'ait is Idnckcd ii]» 
 liv a mass wlmh >uiiiL;-^ IkmHIv u|> aihl down, L'lalin^ 
 ahaiL; till' linitDni at all dcptlis. Ilay-irc a I'rw fi-cl 
 thick. ]iai k-icc, and I'lokf n Im ilis of all MUts and sizes, 
 willi anilhu-ii (• IkImw, all ino\ jnu Imdih- tJii((nL;h u 
 rocky clianiic!, imi>t wnik iintaMc di nudatiun at tlic 
 liiiiidni oj' ilir '.fa in this Sivait. Steamed im to ('ape 
 Charles. All th- low Kicks in the st laits aiv loiiinlcd 
 and siudotlicd, as it' \,\ ihr (nn-tant wtar anil tear uf 
 ice moved hy the cniivnt. Many hei'us were a^ionml 
 in the centic o| the stiait.and one seemed to contain 
 stones, hut it wa'^ too fai olt' to make sure. e\cn with 
 the erlass, (lot to Cape Chailes at S. :'.(), altef ]iassinn 
 Hattle llaihour. The ro( ks are |iiidx gneiss, or, |>erjiaj)s, 
 .syenite, lonlorted, with dark >la1e interst rat ilieil. Tlie\ 
 are all roinided. Theie are \ery few sIk lU at the watei'- 
 line, \eiy little M'a-weci| (\en in the most sh,|f(.i(.(| 
 corner^ ; Imt thon-h tlie>e harlionr> are all IVo/.en evifv 
 winter, the ro.ks at the watei-Iine aie not striated. 
 Picked u|i a >( rate! led stone on the heat h. Luni|'> of i.e. 
 the t'raumeiits oj jirokeii icrhcrus, are i'\er\\\ jicre 
 auronnd and alloat, in all di |.th-^; lait these l>i^' engines 
 eaii oid\ hit the rm ks at the waterdiiie where the ( oast 
 IS steeji, and the coa-^ ^hel\es everywhere; on|\ thin 
 
risiiiN(;-sT.\(ii:s. 
 
 r.'.i 
 
 I 
 
 i. ;. can Imitli tlic w at.T-Iiiic at |iivst'iil. AlM.ut -j<)i» 
 iiilialiitaiits arc scattcivd alx.ut Ih'Iv diiiiii',: ihr -^liiiinici-. 
 
 I lli'ir llnlISC'- aiv lIHTc \\nii(|('|i cailljiS |ii'l'cllcil uimhi 
 
 i''"'l<-^ A I'fw iiKii >t;iy all wiiiti T. 'I'lir tisliiii(4-staucs 
 aiv luiiM |iifi's Iliad-' (if small lir-|M.l('s, and iracli mii 
 
 ilitit di'c|» \\;iliT. wliciv JHiats (•;ili ccnic to tlic rlid. Tlic 
 
 \\a\-cs wash t lir(Mi'_|li the ]<\\<'<, and llir ||(h,i' i,\' llic sta-<' 
 i-^ niadc iif I'dund |.u!i's. lictwrcn wliidi ilic water shines. 
 \ root'Mr |M)l('s, witli lii-l.raiiclir^ \\,v lliMtdi, ii>\iy> \\u- 
 ulinlc. an<l tilde is jiitle pidvi-idii \\,y li'jiit. ( )|| this 
 dai'k sta;^v the lish are lamled iVuin the h.i;its with 
 I'ileh-jitrks. MJiieh are .luek iiil(. theiii as Highlanders 
 t'oik jicats. Alter Hie (ish are (deaiied, split, and -^alled, 
 they are dried nn •'Hakes.'" .Mude Murn'ifs Ihirhmir nf 
 iioi'ii. Tlii- harhiiiir was jijiifked with iee on the :Mith 
 "f ''nl\. The watei-liiie i-^ mhhe.l, ;.iid in -Miiir |,lne,'.s 
 striated. The heweh musists of hidkeii st.'iies, and 
 
 ^'•'■ins In diller ill ||(> re^).eet riMln like he, i. dies (dsi-- 
 
 uhcrc. Man\ rucks are shattered as iih ks arc li\' waves 
 nlonc, hilt all |i.iints are -■rniiiid .d|' within the iiilliini,.,. 
 
 "f the iee. Ill this ivs|ieet this I.ea( ll dilt'el-> Irnlil the 
 "''l''l -'"l''- '"^"11 !' the her-s li;id , ||ri.,i|s .shapes in 
 
 this neiuhhnmh.HMl. Wlui: their wa\ . weiv Letter 
 
 klmwii these shapes were ea>ilN lApIailied, Craiiite 
 \ eiljs idiiMind ill the luek. 
 
I 
 
 '0 
 
 AN AMKHK AN Tl.'A.Ml' 
 
 S(. F ■anils Jliirbdtn; at 2 !'.M. — This is a small hole 
 aiiion^^st 1]m' rocks, with a nicivhaiit'.s cstahlishiiiciit and 
 Malipon-lisiiciy attached. They arc now catcliiiiL^ ahout 
 til'ly ii day, and cdnijihiin that they are ditini; \ciy ill. 
 'I'hey ha\.' caught as many as SOD in a day. There is 
 a liscr ahmit thirty miics u|t the ediinti'y at the head nt" 
 a hay. These lisji ai'e \\(»ikinL;- alnii;_;- the <;{tast. and 
 tla-y are can^lit in a liaL;-nct. Thi' river is said to sive- 
 i'ag(! a (|uailcr d' a niilr in hivadth. Theri- are \k\\v.{ still 
 rearhc'^, t hen a iiortaLT*'. aicl more still rt'aelics. Hut it 
 is \cry ilillicull to Ljft anything;- likt- certain int'oiina- 
 ti'iii. and no chart nf (.idtradnr is i\(iilli anxthiiiL'. 
 Landed with I w n cliiiiii<. A Tul; had cuiiic m, and the 
 ca|»tain --aid Ic wcidd slay all ni;^lit ; so we \\alki'(l (.vcr 
 a hill, and ( aljcij ;it si'\iral Ikiusc-^ tn ^eck shelter jr'-ni 
 |ias>inu >hii\\ ers. « hie liejnii-id tu a Icarts old n:i!i\f 
 mC I )iiiselsliire, wIm iijleri d us tea, and id! iii.innei' e'" 
 hi\nries, Me s.iid that Ic had uic .• stioled I'lu^n S!. 
 Inhn'^ I'lir ( ';ii liiiic IV ill a smeJ! \ d .', '"th a e,ir'.;o of 
 rum, anil a hai'iel and a haj!' of !,■*•,,■(•!• <.rj ouai'd. It 
 came till td hhiw iVoiii the westward, and llie\- were 
 hlnwn (iir to sea. The lijst hiiul tiny liiadi' Was l-'al- 
 iiM'Ulli, and there the wlmle iniintry ( aiiie to see them 
 and tlieii till) NesM'l. The (iisi uni d KMi^e ofliceis camc 
 "11 hoai'd. aiil tlie\ iiiadi them all rnarinu drunk with 
 
I 
 
 bl. ll.'ANi IS' IIAIUSOI i;. 
 
 71 
 
 tilt-' niiii. Ill- nit tlial sliiji itinl went uj. thf Mctlitcr- 
 laiioaii, aii<l now he lias s(juanii| licivwiili In's wifr mul 
 iaiuily. TIii'V (ish in suiiniirr. and iii winicr l;«> u]> \n 
 fill' Iii'atl uf tlic liay liiiiihci'iiiL;. \\\\ in uiih an Imlian, 
 a liall'-lji'iMM!, and an Mnulislinian, win* wmk the salinnn- 
 nt'ts. Two (if thrin Innl iicnci' s.rii a stc;i:M.'i', so we 
 asked tlii'iii t(» ((tine Mil Ipiiaid. and fed tlifni nn t* a and 
 tii'cail and iMiti.i'. TIk-n' dcsriiiicd tlic intn iur nf tlic 
 (Muntry. wlndi lliry rivipirnt in winlci'. luii'in'.;- and 
 sliudtinu dcf'i'. It is Well wiiDiltd : the lives are lai'"e 
 and \vell-L;ri.\\ 11. The nld sailur had >aid, ' Theiv lie fives 
 there if ymi take a elialk in eadi hand and niaik, \iiii 
 
 Wnll't ^e1 mole than half IhUIkL' Twelve feel idiind, is 
 fnlir feet throiluh. Theiv W M v plenty at 'ihe looiii' 
 
 a foot thr(HiL;h, hut none of this si/e. In the-e woods 
 tin: 'fiinvrs' set their tiajis. 'It's aw (id WMik. sir,' 
 said the I'Ji'^Iishnian. ' It's no n-e s;i\ in^, 'j'his is a liaij 
 day; we won'* travel. Tra\e] '.nii nnist, and the e.il(| 
 i-^ tit to hum yoii. \i>\\ haw to eaiTy all \.iii want ; 
 and what with -un, and a.\e, ami -nih, and skins^ it's a 
 heavy lia(k-load. It's a hard life, sir.' The li m 
 was an l'',s(|niniaii\ — a little, luvad, fat fell,,w, I'lie 
 liidf-hieed h,id a moiintaiiiei r f.ir mother nnd lie 
 was Very i^ooddoi.kin-, dark with a Imok. ^ m.se 
 •'lid niarkecl eVrl.loW ^ III' h.id the heaiiiiu of iitl,. 
 
r2 
 
 AN A.Mi:i;I< A., IliAMI". 
 
 iiiaii, tlie a1i>ciii'(' of ii^t inint iiiid awkwardness — 
 an in-tinct whicli told him Ik.w to avoid vuluaritv 
 or coarsenL's^. I low many a man wiio ranks In'm- 
 si'lf a irontlcman i- Iml a sj.uih^d savage, with Lis loud, 
 ronuh. vuluai iMtlish o|' tdwn \i(t'. The •'•real fur 
 pri/c is a l)hick tox, worth £'2n Ii.mv, but tho Indian 
 liail nfVf'i' >rt'n oni-. Thf in\\ j.ii/c is a silvci- I'ox, 
 Morth I'l.'i to .C2ti. Tlii'sc also arc rare hut tlicy can 
 l)o<,'ot occasionally, llluk, silvci', and red may occur in 
 '•nc litter. 'I'lic Kick-^ aic contdiicl gneiss, with many 
 quait/ vciii^. Til.' liill-to|)s an' all rounded and much 
 wcallicrcd, so much that i( is not jiossihlr to make out 
 til'- dii'ccliou oj' vlaiiation. '["In- watcrdiiic is juuch 
 imMic!; .mo..ih, 1-ut not striated. 'I'' -w arc lew 
 ])orc)icd 1)1. k. at this j.lacc Thr hiLihcst hills aro 
 ahout KM»,,r "(HI r,.et lii-h. Th'- coast i- a ma/.(! iij' lochs 
 and i^landN :trn;< 'I' tic sea runnin'^ iti amongst the 
 
 hills in e\r|y JiovsiMe direetioU ; there seeUl^ to he IK) 
 
 symmetrical denudation. IceherLis aiv r-vciA wImtiv a 
 )•! iccs<ion of h.rnre o])- s is ])assine; out-ide. TIicm lacak 
 ii|t. and the hits arc canicd in hy wint-, atid tide. Tla-se 
 hits in theii' (urn L;found and hivak, and tiie little hits 
 '•'■d't into the ha\<. A laiM,. hlc.ck was hi,i',l .md fast, 
 
 close to Jl stecj. roek at the clltliincc of the hurhoUT. 
 
 it ua> tar lar^jer tliai< ih" hull of a tir-t-rate, and 
 
; ^ 
 
 sr. iHANcis iiAi;ii(i( i;. 
 
 ( ■• 
 
 fc 
 
 the size uiulfi' water was iiiuL' time-; as j^qeat. Krum 
 tliis mass, tVauiiifiits as lariii' as shijis' Ix.ats liad t'allcii, 
 ami Sdiiic (li'/i'ii-^ )l'1iit< as ln'j^ as lio^slicatls wvw, ))o])l)iii!4 
 about in. tlu' laii(l-\\a>li cl-isc to tlic wliaii'. In llic 
 harbfiui'^ t<» wliii Ii \\c walkcil wcit' Iktlis iiccimul; over 
 tlic liills and ln\\- puiiils. Accfirdinn- to a iiiaii whu 
 Iivf(l in ii small hut hcsidc wliicli one of thcsi^ Ixtlts 
 liail >traiirlf.|, it had (uiind ovri' sc\cral times, and 
 (h'0])i»('d a load (ff Miiues wlieic it lay. Skctehed this 
 one, hut eouM uot delect a sym[tt(Uii of a stone oi' a 
 'Main of saml in the ice. I( was casN' to trace vai'ious 
 ^\ alei'-lines on the ><i(h'< of the hei'LT. The mo>(|uitos 
 N.onld not let me sketch ; it came on to lain, and then 
 the sun came out, and --lione lielit in my eyes, I'ound 
 aiiothei' here- aeiouiid clo-e to ihi' rocks. !.evelle<l the 
 toj) v.ith a -]>irit-leve], and mea-ureij tlie iiei-dit with 
 the aneiiiid : made ii -jo i'eet IVom the wateidine. 
 This Was a jieakcd ]>eie, and a nieiv hah\' to manv 
 wlucli We have seen. It was np:i'ound, and the li>heinieii 
 saiil tli( I'e was IVom lo to L'li I'athoms '!M) t,, pjii fret) 
 
 at tlie |.]ace ll'll l»e]<;W aild lo alioVC jl'io feet of ice). 
 
 Tlieiv is then a |iowcifid engine at woik lieiv, and its 
 marks are set ii even a! the water-line. Ten da\s aijo 
 men wfre walkiuLjon ice in these hays, ami nowlhul the 
 haydce has di-aj'jieared, tlic lnoken liei;^-. lia\e come in. 
 
AN AMKKUAN TliA.Ml'. 
 
 Till' l»ay-i(.'t.' wuik.s at tlie water-liiic ; tlie bt'iy^^ in cU'epcr 
 water, wiiure tlirv arc cliivcii liv tin* tide. Tlie soil is 
 a brown ja'at, very thin. The vc^a'tatioii like Scaiuliua- 
 viaii ; hut ^ray mosses and lidicns arc not very abun- 
 dant. Ih'rds arc scarce : no j^'anaj was seen all day. 
 
 In the bottoms (»!" the bays, away IVom the cold 
 sticam, tiees are 'Idii Tcet hiuh.' Tlie soil is decj) and 
 flee of stoii(\s : tuniijis grow well, but 'the mos([uitos 
 aic so thick that yoii can't see tliioiinh them.' In 
 wintei', the siKtw is ' r. I'cet deep ill the woods strai^uht 
 uj) and ilown ; anil I", ;iyc "M led deep in drifts and 
 • rullics.' So sa\- the iidiabitants. 
 
 The latitude aL,'rees nearly with that ol' ('ardi^'an 
 I'ay, Waterlbrd, Yarmouth, aiid such-like jilaces in the 
 (»ld country ; and the climate e\ ideiitly results IVom the 
 cold stream which Hows down the coast. The air is 
 now t'lir w;ii'mer tli;iii the wider bcjdW il, and the 
 temperature rises imincdiutcly nu IiuxIul;' the coast. 
 'Hie immi'diate < oast-line is bleak :tuil baiicn ; the 
 sheltered botlonis inshore an- well wooded and com- 
 parat i\ely I'cit ile. 
 
 Auni'^-f I, I'-"'' I - Monihiy, H a.m. -.Air \7\ 
 watoV '^T . — Started early. I'inc. uoiiheii^ wind, and 
 clear weallicl' I 'oa.d ImiM :ind inckN', with hills 
 risinc .".(id tir li(»> I'eel. About \'\\\\v H^i>,(i, patches 
 
lilll 
 
 I-.\lii;AlM)i; (OAsi' 
 
 ut' snow wci'L' low ilowii uii tliL' liills. witliiii li)() fni. 
 ul" tlic scii. ("alli'd ill Vciiison Tickle. ()ii Tliiirsday 
 fortiiiglil }K'o[ilt' ddsscil tliis sdiuMi on i( c Tlic ciijitiiiu 
 was ill ji (IcsjK'riite Inirrv, (lr(»p])iii;^" tin' lttt(i-l)a<j;.s 
 into li^liin:_;-l)0iits, and stnj.|iiii;^- nnwlicic Watcliod tlio 
 I'dcks witli ii ti'li .si'oitf, and lailti' to make out stria- any- 
 where; liut llic wati r-liiir is cvciywlicn' nildicd sinooth, 
 and tilt' rocks lur a cniisidciaMt,' la'ii^lit arc jtcifcctly 
 jtarr. \o sca-warc, no slicjjs, n<i liiiijirts. nittliin;^' Imt a 
 I'cw liainaclcs in clefts. 'I'ln- tisjiinw' i^ had, lait iiiijiroN- 
 inj^ sinci' the ic' departed. A tln'ory that ice liasdri\rn 
 tlif lish oil' tli(^ cia-t I'lvvaiis li.iv also. At l'.:'.(l t he laiid- 
 aj)!' \N'as nia;4iiiflci'nl ; tn seawards live ennniKius liei^s 
 Idoiiied like i>land< tliroiiL;li a liaxe ; tlie\- jnokcd lil 
 
 sc 
 
 \e 
 
 raniiliar stacks and islainN in tlie old cniintiy — tlie 
 I'.as.s, Ail>a, ami >n(Ii-Iike. The suii >]ii.iir liiilliant ly 
 
 ill a hjllr sky .stre.ikcd with |1iim\ cImIIiJ-., jn tlir Inic- 
 Uround Were 'iicat masses ol' nid ulein idttcll aictie iie, 
 all watfi'-woin ; landward wa-^ a idii'_;h iimehnimd 
 
 CO 
 
 i>t, with small her<:s dotted ahoiit (do-^e iindiT the liill> 
 
 and far ii)i in the Ijnids ; and the.se sparkled and 'jlit- 
 ti'ied at Uie water's (mI^c liki' I'liililir maihle. it is\cry 
 dillicidl to net a nieaMiiv ol' lliesr lari^e distant hci'/s. 
 
 A small Ncs^el |ia,>sed ahi.iil hall' way In oiii' of tln'iii 
 The a|t|»arenl h«ij.dil wa^aliMiii tinin' tji.ii ol'ilic vcsmT 
 
7(1 
 
 A.N AMI.liK AN IKAMI'. 
 
 (list.-mt ;iIiMiit line.' iiiilrs. TIi.- mast buiii;,' alx.iil sii |,,.,'t 
 liij^Ii, I lie l.rig inu>i Iiiivr Imth over .".iKl. Tlio 
 stciiiiKT -Di'iiir si\ iiiiN-s ail li-Mir i 1 1 . .ii<. il i ivcl i( .li. aiid 
 
 tlic VoscI m.iiiM- alM.lit 111,. ,s,iii.. ill the (idler, We tnuk 
 
 two iiiimitf'^ ((. clear the Kern on tji,. Ii,,ri/nii. .Fiid-iii-- 
 
 I'V llills at aliuiit ihe ^;,|iie (li-laiiec, IJie l.er^r iiiiisl Iia\e 
 l.ceii riilly ;;ii() re<.| lii-l,, i,i„i peilini^ •'"<> '""U' : at oiie- 
 iiiiitli (.III ..I' water, il was ;;()(»() leel llii.;k ; and \vt ..Id 
 hands said it was shim! I l.. I.cr^'s wliieli aic seen liere in 
 '•"• -^I'liiiu'-. At l(l.;;() .liM|.|.ed l.tt.r. at S.<>/ /s/,n„/s, 
 iind diiiiii-- the i.au>e watdied a siiial! Lit ..j' i.'c |.(.lisli- 
 
 '"'-' a ^tolic. It seeliieil al.i.lll the >i/e (.f a li(.,u>liead, 
 
 and it wa> i'e->iiiiM ajimiind in a sinall l)ay. The waves 
 I'-cked il slowly like a white eradlc, and It se.-med f,, 
 lid. a,'aiii>t a iai^e I'nnnd >t(.!ie in the land-wasji. This 
 I'oli.diin^ ni(i\eMient c.iild ne\|.r |.riidn<'e ^t riatidii. and 
 '"' ^tiia' ale t(. I.e ^een at the iaiid-wa-li in th,-.. ^..iinds, 
 
 or Mil nj.eil sea-enasts Heal' the Jircselit Watel'dille. It is 
 
 silflieielidy evident that Lilaeial stria' all' lint i.h.diieed 
 
 li\ thin hay-iee, l.m the t....l-niarks (.!' tin- ].art (.f the 
 I'lii^iiie aiv ev.'ryuliei'!' (•(in>|.ieiiMiis in tlie miiiided !',.iiii 
 
 "1" the stmie, Sliia' nill-t he made ill dee|. water, h\- llie 
 hir^^O lllilSSCS Whieh >ee||| I,, pilixii,. the e\e|| teller (.1 
 
 their \\a\ in tin' steady (airreiit whieli Ihiws d.iwn the 
 '■"asl. Il her ■ niMVes at a rati- df from tw.. to three 
 
 
I I'llKAVAl, (•! I.AMIIAlHii;. 
 
 ( < 
 
 knots, lii«ti:!st in spring' antl lull, .ind it mcivt-.s • uth-ciist. 
 It i- ivniarUaltlf that u). i-t tlii^ tina' \\f liavi- only xcn u 
 lew (IdMlitl'iil stnni'-^ on l»t'i .■•^ w liidi Wf Iiavf jtassnl. 'I'litv 
 iii'u all worn, ami I'lnni tin ii- ntiimii'ii-^ watcr-linrs at all 
 an,L;lt'^ they lia\t' all Imch cap^i/i'l, i-i' tiny hayr 
 In ••■led s<i lai' as to capsi/c any |nn-.(' (jrck-jn.td, sin li as a 
 nmrainc, luit riHii\v-]>a>s( ngcrs liayr xcn -touts Ik./i'U 
 into liciy^^, thou;;li\\c liayr xin nunc \<> lie ui'' oCso lUi'. 
 All alon;^'lliis \o\a;j.it lia-lMcn >aitl that tin- land is risinir. 
 
 Tlif liank> of New I'oundland hil' >aid \<> Kc uftlin"- 
 shoal' 'T. 
 
 Al Hay Jlnlii'it>, in ( 'mit rptinn ('.a\'. ai loidin'; to a 
 ;;cntlfnian who liyc-^ thtiv, a n.ck whirh was h.iich 
 awa>h when he wa- a hov- .saV twt iii\ \(a!>> a<'o — is 
 •i"^\ lai out nf watcf. It was n.aik.d in ISi'U, mid in 
 IM.VI it had ii-rn !_' im hf> ^;;_' yrai> at I', jkt \ rar . 
 At Kiii'j's {\)\i- nnticcda iai.-<d Immi h t-i Iiai, whith 
 lii>t callfd iii\ attiiiiimi t,, ij,,. lii,!. Thriv wa- a small 
 iVL'sli-watci' hiki' lirhiiid it, and it w;i- inaiiilr^t >.a-\\nik 
 al'out Is Irrt hi-lii T tliaii ihf m;i Icyrl. Iliaix's and 
 stages ^y^,■H! Imilt (.n it. A ktd an old )ii;in il tln' wa\c> 
 ever canir o\ci' it in -t<inii-. Aii--wri. • .\c\i|.' 
 
 Al l'o;^o, a>kfd a iiian, w hu wa- luciidinu hi- n^ t-, il' 
 hi' had liMticrd an_\ i Imiilm' in the >ra |.'\i|. ' \ . -,' \u- 
 said ; * 1 h,i\f. 'I'hc hailM.ur i..ik ihiiv umiI to he \ri\ 
 

 <\... 
 
 IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
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 O 
 
 
 
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 I.I 
 
 1.25 
 
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 2.5 
 
 1.8 
 
 1.4 II 1.6 
 
 v^ 
 
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 v""^ 
 
 % 
 
 
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 7 
 
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 Photographic 
 
 Sciences 
 Corporation 
 
 V 
 
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 \\ 
 
 
 6^ 
 
 23 WEST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 
 
 (716) 872-4503 
 

 ^ 
 
 \\ 
 
 
 6^ 
 
7H 
 
 AN AMKltlCAX TUAMT 
 
 ranily r.ean at low \vatt.'r s[)riiig-tide.s. It is now so iiiudi 
 out of water tliat you luiglit build a I'ouin upon ii." It is 
 a Ijroad flat rock, and it was two foot out of water when 
 the steamer passed outwards. A merchant, who was 
 with us, pointed out a fresh-water marsh, and said that 
 they us(h1 to catch sea-fish in it not very long ago. 
 
 At Toulinguet the church is huilt upon a raised 
 beach of rolled stones. 
 
 Near the lliver of Exploits, recent sea-shells occur in 
 a raised beach. 
 
 At St. Francis' Harbour, asked a man, ^vho has worked 
 the salmon-nets for fifteen years, if he had noticed 
 any change. * Well,' said he, ' fifteen years ago. my boat 
 used just to ground at the end of the stage at low M'ater, 
 with the nets in her. Now she grounds when empty, 
 and that's a solid rock. There is a difference of a foot 
 at least.' 
 
 Say an inch a year, and that comes near the measured 
 rate at Bay Roberts. 
 
 Further north, at llolton Harbour, a man had no- 
 ticed that the bay had got shoaler ; but it was a sandy 
 bay, and lie thought the sand had drifted in. 
 
 Thus, for a distance of GOO miles, the coast-line is 
 rising about an inch a year. Of former rising, there is 
 abundant evidence in terraces and raisetl beaches. At 
 
 f, 
 
% 
 
 I.AXl] lilSIXC. -y 
 
 tin., mte of rising, ail tl.o lull-tops wore awash not long 
 "g'o, aiKl in ,lef|, ^^ alor at some time ur otlier. It is on 
 the hill-tops that marks of glaeiatiou by large bergs ou-ht 
 to be found. ° 
 
 A„ff,,d l.^A/ 2, pcmed Baieau:.; a settlement 
 amongst a lot of islamls. Men were catehing fish close 
 to the roeks. One was working four lines at onee. At 
 3 passd Domino. A great many boats fishing, bjit 
 catehing few. The wind cold; a few ,leej, snowdrifts 
 close to the sea. These islands are about 200 feet hi"li 
 and rounded ; the rocks veined with pink granite. xL.' 
 in to Indmn Idand, and anchored for the night, 5 ri, 
 rt is about the latitude of Westport and Droghedl Pres- 
 ton and Hull. It is at a corner in the coast, and if the 
 hdl-tops were sunk deep enough, they would be in the 
 run of the large bergs. Landed, and set off for a walk 
 The low grounds are covered with a terrace of boulders 
 on which are pools and bogs. The highest hill is of 
 black .gneous roek, 400 feet high, and on it are stones 
 which look like beach-stones. No shells were found 
 The whole of the high grounds ^v, rochc, mouiom^c. but 
 much weathered. Numerous large blocks of li^ht- 
 coloured granite were perched on the tops, and strewed 
 about in the lee of the dark black roeks. Strhe were made 
 out here ; direction, N. 35° W. magnetic, or nearly N 
 
80 
 
 AN A.Mi;i{ICAN TKAMK 
 
 h E. true. Twenty-two bergs w'vw counted from this 
 top ; tlie lai'gcst, far out at sea, moving southwards. One 
 of the blocks of granite measured G X 5 X 4 feet. Another, 
 of very coarse granite, gray, with large crystals of fel- 
 spar, was twelve feet long. The rock on which these 
 blocks were perched is a kind of hornblende (:'), of which 
 a specimen was taken. ]Madc a sketch at 13.1 feet. The 
 prevailing wind, as shown by scrubby bushes of spruce, 
 growing like juniper, is N. 22° E. mag., or X. G2° E. 
 true. Numerous deep snowdrifts we^-e lodged on the 
 sheltered or south-west side of these hills. 
 
 The lookout from the to}) of this island was a wide 
 one ; no higher ground was in siglit. Far as the eye 
 could reach, on a line evening, the same rollimi' sea of 
 low rocky hillocks and ridges extended landwards to the 
 blue horizon, \vith gleaming sea-lochs and fresh-water 
 lakes shining like polished mirrors set in a granite 
 frame. There could be no higher hill in that direction 
 for 50 miles at least. Three })arts of the circle were 
 boundctl l)y a sea-horizon, studded only with islands of 
 ice. The stria; on tlie r(jcks under fodt, and the axis of 
 the island, aimed north. The perched blocks stranded 
 on the hill-top might have come from any distant place 
 in that direction ; at all events they were wholly foreign 
 to the black <'litterinL! ii-iieous saddleback on m liich tliev 
 
nENUI)IX(; EX(;iXH8. 
 
 81 
 
 ^•'•'1^' in long procession. How cam. t],..y t. tl.c top 
 "f" the hi^licst point of a promontory, ll.rust out into 
 a circle boundrd only l.y the horizon^ Seated lu.si.h. 
 them, and lookin- out on this arctic landscape, near 
 the latitude of AVales, the answer appeared to he clearly 
 given. Though no bergs, M-ith stones on them or iii 
 them, have heen aj.proached during this vova<.v, many 
 on hoard the 'Ariel' have heen close to h.-rgr heavily 
 laden. 
 
 m. Drysdale states that, a few years ago, a lar-e 
 island of ice drifted into Conception IJay, in Xewfound- 
 Innd, and ran aground there. It was cov.re.l ^^•ith lam-o 
 stones, which lay cm the ice ; it hr..ke up in de^.-p watm-, 
 aud dropped the load. A large l.erg was seen hy Mr.' 
 M'Donald, somewhere off St. John's, with a very lamo 
 stone frozen info it. The hay-ice continually picks iip 
 stones about the water-line in winter. The main cur- 
 rent which carries all this ice moves southwards, and 
 trends westwards, hugging the coast; but everv'pro- 
 uiontory turns it eastwards, off the land, and makes an 
 eddy in the lee. In winter anchor-ice forms at th(^ 
 bottom, even in deep water ; it nmst also forni about 
 the base of stranded bergs, and these may thus gather 
 heaps of gravel, sand, and stones. .When bergs'^ turn 
 over they often lift stones, according to the fishern.en. 
 
 Cr 
 
82 
 
 AN AMKUICA.N TRAMP. 
 
 Ill deep water, high ])oiiits only are toiielujcl by the base 
 of lieavy bergs oi' the largest size ; but bergs of all di- 
 mensions fit sliallowcr water. If any ])oint rises towards 
 the surface, high enough to escape the bergs alto- 
 gether, it is then washed by waves in summer and 
 attacked by rafts of bay-ice in winter. This jjart of the 
 engine carries everything portable from the rock. If a 
 rivulet has managed to build a small delta of sand dur- 
 ing the summer, it turns to stone and gets fost to the 
 end of a rait of sea-ice in winter. On a c(»ast-line of 
 some hundreds ol' miles there is scarcely a snndy beach. 
 On a sea-bottom rising through a S(^a affected by such a 
 climate, no stones could remain but blocks of large size, 
 able to resist waves and bay-ice. Accordingly, on these 
 island hills few ])atches of gravel remain, Init large 
 stones were seen on every hill-top that came M'ithin 
 range of a powerful telescope thi'oughout the voyage. 
 Eocks awash and rising are touched Ity heavy bergs on 
 the sides onlv. Manv rocks were seen in this condition, 
 awash with stranded bergs around. But if a whole tract 
 of country ground do"\vn to one general level, and fifty 
 miles wide, is rising to the surface bodily, the main 
 current is thereby turned, and the action of ice islands 
 transferred to deeper water at once. If glacial stria? be 
 marks of sea-ice, they ought to coincide with the direc- 
 
 
 \ 
 
' 
 
 Til F.I U MAIJKS. 
 
 83 
 
 tiuii which the cuiTeiit would follow if the place were 
 snljiiKTOTMl. I[<,re the .stride do j.t.int up stream. 
 
 If this country were suhinerged and rising-, the 
 current M-oul. I iiow over this island in the directi.-n of 
 the striie f.nin.l on the hill-to], ; and small her-s 
 woul.l touch the hill-si(k's after the top had risen, as 
 .small her-s touch the sides of rocks in the sonml ; 
 finally, rafts of \ay-ice mi-ht oather and .Irop, an.l pack in 
 flat layers, the terrace of large houldei's, M-Jiich ivsts on 
 the shore side of the scored rock, as hny-ice now j.acks 
 the beach. If this land goes on lising, the sound through 
 whicli vessels and small l.ergs now sail and drift will 
 become a terraced isthnms of diM-ft, crossing the run of 
 the stream, joining a peninsula of glaciated rock to a 
 rolling country of like nature. In Scandinavia and in 
 Scotland similar forms abound at high levels. It is a 
 case of 'crag-ami-tail,' but in this case the tail crosses the 
 stream. Where the sea has full swing and the rock is 
 brittle, this coast-line breaks into diifs ; but these are 
 exceptions. The top of the country is very like the 
 top of Dartmoor and Cornwall; the edge of it, as a 
 rule, is unlike the broken water-line of the British coast. 
 The cause is the climate, which results fi-om the course 
 now followed by the Arctic Current. Because a stream 
 of cold water now passes along a rising coast, waves 
 
 I 
 
I 
 
 H4 
 
 AN AMEUICAN TliAMT. 
 
 only beat iii»i.»ii it in sununur. In Mintcv it is iji'otuctcd 
 ]»y u ])rL'<ik\viit('r (d' ice ; su cliris aiv laiv. lUit tlic 
 lloa1in.L; Idvakwalcr is a niovin,L!; engine wliicli saws 
 rock wlienevcr it moves : the edge of it is armed \vitli 
 tlio stone-dust wliieli it wears off, and picks u\) every 
 frost, and tlie mark of it is conspicuous in the lin}' ol' 
 Fundy, at Cape Ih'eton, and on liarder rocks along the 
 coast of Labrador at many exposed spots. In shel- 
 tered nooks ice I'oiins and melts, rises and falls, and does 
 not even stir the legs of tish-stages. Looking out then 
 from this advanced ])ost, 2)iirt oi' a greiit denuding 
 engine was seen at work. On the horizon were Lergs 
 of the largest size, probc'djly 2000 feet from base to 
 crest, moving steadily southwards at a rate of two or 
 three knots ; nearer in were smaller bergs in the eddv — 
 some moving, some aground. Still nearer were smaller 
 islands of ice, 40 feet out of water, and aground 
 amongst the islands ; and in the sound were a shoal of 
 'growlers' as big as sloo])s and boats and casks, bob- 
 bing in the waves, and all moving one way with the 
 stream, against the wind. Surely the spoor of the Arctic 
 Current was under foot, and surely the stones at the 
 shore-line and at the base of the hill were the chips of 
 the engine which ground the flat rocky country on the 
 western horizon. 
 
Till-: ARCTIC CIMIKKNT, 
 
 85 
 
 '•111 tlio iiioveniL'iits of solitary i(,"el)(.Tgs at tliis i)arti- 
 cular .season ai)iK'ar to l.f too erratic to account for 
 glacial stri;e wliicli keep rme ovncial direction over 
 whole tracts ..f countr\-. Floating hills, ..yen th.m..'h 
 2()()() i'cet thick, must give M'ay to lix-e.l rocks, and turn 
 aside ; hut slri;e often run over considerable hills. 
 
 The engine here working ai)[)ears to be the only 
 "IK' in existence aide t,. do sucJi heavy work. The 
 spring and winter drift has ])assed down this coast for 
 eountless ages. This year it was one yast solid raft ..f 
 floes and hergs. It was more than 150 miles whle, 
 perhaps 3000 feet thick at spots, IV.r some hergs were 
 oOO feet high; it was probably more than 300 miles 
 hjng. It has l)een driyen by a whole current bodily 
 over one definite course, year after year, ever since this 
 land was found. Nobody sees it in winter, so no one 
 knows its full power ; but the sealers who work their 
 perilous trade about the bi'oken edges of the shattered 
 mass, in si.ring, know to their cost how teiTible is the 
 inarch of this marble country of hill and plain, which 
 grows together and breaks up into scattered mountains 
 every year. If Ireland wei-e shayed off at the sca-leyel, 
 turned upside down, and set afloat in a shallow sea, the 
 highest mountains would about e(pial the dimensions of 
 tlie largest bergs, and the area woidd not exceed that of 
 
 V,^ 
 
SG 
 
 AN AMKUILAN TI.'AMI'. 
 
 till' icc-di'it't wliicli passed f'niiii Cajie llamsdii in ('a]»o 
 liacL' in 181)4. Islands ul" icu, with bases ol' tiu/.t ii drift, 
 IicuhikmI in l»y such a mass, driven (»ii by a whole sea, 
 ni(»\iii,^ at two (ir three miles an huui', seem to be 
 en^im s ol' greatei- ] tower than any glacier yet seen or 
 deseribed, and am])ly siinieient to account for iMii'ojtean 
 glaciation in similar lalitudi's. hikt; an army advanc- 
 ing in line, each part of the raf( mu.'^t take a lini; ami 
 keep it ; when the mass joins. The spoor oi" tliis current 
 nuist be ii wide one, with a general direction, and a 
 depth e([ual to that of the liugcst bergs. Off this coast 
 it may extend ;i()0() feel below the ]ti'esent sea-level, 
 and oOO miles from the coast, with a general dii'ection 
 from N.W. to S.E. 
 
 The stream begins at Spitzl)ergen, lat. 80", and ends 
 about lat. 3G", and its general direction is from X.E. to 
 S.W., wherever land does not tuni the stream. 
 
 Tried to retui'ii by the shore, and stuck fast in a cliff. 
 Scrand»led up again, and got down on the other side at 
 a place where a boat was haiding ca})lin. They shot a 
 seine in a rocky bay, and hauled it into the boat. They 
 ladled the fish out of the bag with a landing-net, and 
 got a vast haul. Another fellow w^as heaving a casting- 
 net, and got a great many amongst the stones. These 
 little fish come to land in mvriads. Thev ao in shoals 
 
CAl'LIN. 
 
 87 
 
 i 
 
 1 
 
 ol" liuilus and IV'iimle.s. (Jiiu luiul will luiidly pidduic ;i 
 ft'iiiiile ; iUiutluT l)ua1 will l)e luiidi'd with rciiiidrs (iidy. 
 They run iishorc to spawn, and it is said that twn males 
 and one rcniale run side hy side to land, the nudes 
 li('l[»in,Li to ])ri'ss the s|>awii IVoiii their nuite. This is 
 foninionly assorted hy soi-di.sant eyewitnesses. Joiiietl 
 company with a small im[» (A' a Ixjy ahout twcKc y'jars 
 old, who had heen fishiii,^ all day, and had all the liear- 
 in^U of an ex})erieneed old man. lie askeil us to come 
 in to the lanise where he live<i, and when I ,ua\e him a 
 (juid of baecy he stuck it into his cheek, and began to 
 chew with all his might. Picked n[) st;veral chalk- 
 flints, with chalk adhering to them. They looked 
 strange in this land of primitivi' rocks. Went to the 
 house of Mr. AVarren, who keeps a register of t(unpera- 
 ture, and a journal, and who lectures on Labrador. lie 
 says that in winter the temperature is sonu'tinu'S —oT, 
 and varies from 70" to 18" within twenty-four hours. 
 His glass is placed against the southern wall of the 
 house. At the bottom of SandM'ich Bay, turnips and 
 potatoes grow well, but cucumbers will not. On the 
 islands nothing grows. They keep a few sheep and 
 goats, and some cows, but these are brought in the ves- 
 sels in spring, and are slaughtered and eaten in the 
 fall. Here are some quotations from Mr. Warren's 
 
88 
 
 AN AMKiaCAN TUA.MI'. 
 
 journal CiM' ISG4, wliirli ^\•us kimlly placiMl at iny dis- 
 posal : — 
 
 JNlfinday, .Iiint' 11 th. — let- coiiiinii' in aLiain. 
 
 14tli. — Cove and liarlnmr lull of icu, Ik'twi'i-u lliu 
 pieces of ico the water froze so hard, I hat the seal-bouts 
 in the nu)rniu<^f with great dillieulty ibreed their way 
 through. Keen wind. 
 
 IGth. — -ThL'iiiu)UU'ter in shade G8°, 'J A.M. ; 95" noon. 
 
 28th. — lecberg grounded in cove, and broke u]), 
 having capsized. 
 
 The journal eliiefly relates ti) fishing, which was 
 ' vci'V had indeed' at first, and to the jjeliaviour of the 
 nu'n, one of whom seemed to be continually ' drunk 
 and abusive' — a state by no means rare in the.sc re- 
 gions. About 1000 sail passed this station, according 
 to Mr. Warren ; one of these, a Yankee yacht, has gone 
 north, and means to get as far as possible. 
 
 Went to see the splitting process. It was a strange 
 scene. The stage, a long low building of fir poles and 
 branches, is perched on the rocks, so as to project over 
 the sea. It is like a long windowless house on a wooden 
 pier. In this long room a number of double-beaked tin 
 lamps hung flaring from the roof. The day's take — per- 
 haps 1 500 fish to a boat — had been thrown up with pitch- 
 forks and lay in a heap at the sea (^iu\, where there is n 
 
 f 
 
.SI'MTTINC. Cnl>. 
 
 8'.» 
 
 I 
 
 ^ 
 
 (Iniillu ddor lur till' liouU. A* tlu: word ' Fish I'.js' u 
 shower of cotl-lish Wiis thrown tVoiu tin; hcii]* u])Oii a 
 talilis wliurc stood a mcrmaidrii clad in sailcloth, and 
 covi.'i'ud with lilood and sliniu. Seizing a fish hy the 
 '.skrull'' ot' till' neck, sh(! stuck a lonu knih; into his iniio- 
 ci'iit dead throat, and at one slice she riitjM'd him iij) IVoin 
 sti'iii to stern. A turn of tla^ wrist and the lish slid to a 
 dark-browed duine called the "header," wIkj tore his inside 
 out, l)roke his neck, andt wisted his lieailoif. The hody slid 
 over tothesplittei',an old rough bearded, brown-faced, gory 
 mariner; the head and offal slipjxMl through a hole into 
 the sea, and the fat liver fell ^vith a soft oil}' ])lump 
 through another trap-door into a vat. .Seizing the head- 
 less trunk with his left hand, one long teaiing slice by 
 the splitter cleared the backbone on one side, and then 
 with a tlourish of the knife a sccoud slice from tail to head 
 cleared it out, and down it went tlir(»ugh the table, after 
 the head, into the sea, plump. The sjdit body slid (tif 
 the table into a wheel-barrow, and by that time a second 
 headless trunk was ready to be boned. In one minute 
 7 bones were cut out by one artist, another extracted 9, 
 and a third 10 ; three gangs at this rate s])lit 1500 fish 
 in an hour at one stage alone. The barrow when filled 
 was wheeled along a plank, and the load stacked, back 
 downwards, \\ith lavers of salt shovelled over each bed 
 
^y) 
 
 AN AMERICAN TIJAMK 
 
 of fisli. After about ten days the salt-fish formation is 
 quarried, and kiid out on stages made of l)mnclies and 
 poles, called flakes, and on. Ijeaches of dry stones rudely 
 arranged. In the fall they are sent home 'green,' to be 
 euied and dried on flakes at St. John's and elsewhere. 
 In rainy weather the green fish are piled and thatched 
 with bark and old sails. After this bloody exhibition, 
 stumbled over the poles, through the piles of slain, and 
 went through another stage o the l)oa': and on l)oard. 
 
 Afiud 2. — Crossing Hmv.iUuii Inht, about the same 
 latitude as the Tsle of jMan— Air 42°, water 37'.— 
 Passinn; through a scattered fleet of broken bei'gs with 
 fresh fractures and strange shapes. One was like a 
 marble monument with a t-ij^antic figure laid out on 
 the top, and a leo])ard's head looking out to the sea 
 at the end. This strange sculpture of wind and 
 weather was 40 feet high at least. Another was like 
 a giant bust of the Duke of AVellington, 50 feet high ; 
 in five minutes it had changed into a tall obelisk over- 
 hanging its base. -Another was like a couchant hind. 
 The glassy sea was dotted with tlie>e olrange wlute 
 marble edifices, telling sharply ogainst L iw blue hills and 
 distant island;^ ; and here and there a dark round black 
 rock peered above the water like a sleeping whale. It 
 was a strange wald landscf pe, and very beautiful in its 
 
DWAKF FORESTS. 
 
 91 
 
 
 owu peculiar vay. Ran into Indian Harbour, and then, 
 after visitirig Mr. Norman, and ja\ving cod-fish for half 
 an hour, got a })iiot. Steamed on to Holton Harbour, and 
 anchored for tlie night, having .sighted Cape Harrison. 
 Landed and ^valked up the country, l-ound a series of 
 bogs and low round rocks, a shallow sea, and large stones 
 everywhere. The vegetation is peculiar: the forest con- 
 sists of a stunted scrub of spruce, betula nana, juniper, 
 etc., cut over by the wind. It is sonictinu's less than a 
 foot high, and spread so that it is easy to walk on the 
 tree-tops; it is sometimes six feet higli with thick stems. 
 In other respects the country was very like Hammerfest. 
 
 The prevailing wind is X.W. j\l fished in a lake, 
 
 and hooked a char. At night the sky l.iurned with a nuig- 
 niticent aurora. It seemed to rise from a point on the 
 horizon towards the magnetic north, as from a volcano, 
 up to the zenith ; and it streamed southwards, wavering 
 like a great downy golden iealher of yellow liie. 
 
 Our Indian Island pilot came into our berth to sleep. 
 The missionary cross-cnie.';tioned liim for a full hour, 
 while the rest of the inhabitants dropped sleepy remarks 
 plump into the conversation, and the old pilot snored 
 like a south-west storm. This pilot speaks Esquimaux 
 as well as English. He did speak the Erench language, 
 but now he mixes it with Indian. At the head of Ha- 
 
92 
 
 AN AMERICAN TRAMP. 
 
 iiiiltoii Iiilot, about 150 miles iq), is a larg(3 'room' (that 
 is to say, house), and a station of the Hudson's Bay Com- 
 pany. TIk! Indians cross tlie country in about a fortnight, 
 to ]\rus(iuarra, near Anticosti, where is another station. 
 Tlie route is a canoe-route. Each man carries a blanket 
 and a 'stand-by' — to wit, some food. They hunt, by the 
 w.iy, deer and partridges. There is a settlement in the 
 inlet. The man has been here for fifteen years, but he 
 has never been up to tlu^ end. The missionary's list of 
 animals inluded lemen aud marmot (whistler), white 
 owls, and no end of Inrds and Ijeasts, At a short dis- 
 tance from the sea-coast, the country is hilly, wooded, 
 and marshy. Trees j^'row to be 'three feet through.' 
 There are pines, ' aps,' and birch, but no hardwood. 
 The hills are very rocky. There are a great many 
 mountaineer Indians, who work for the Hudson's Bay 
 Company. They are tall well-made men, unlike the 
 Esquimaux, who are short, broad, s<|uat, brown, and fixt. 
 Most of them read and write. 
 
 So the interior, beyond the inlluence of the cold 
 current, has a different climate, and a vegetation less 
 arctic and weatherbeaten. 
 
 On the 24th of Jul v, the moutli of Hamilton Tnh't, 
 latitude of Donegal and jNIorecomlie Bay. was full oi' heavy 
 drii't, 'pan-ice.' The outer limit of it could not l»e seen 
 
 
HAMILTON INLET. 
 
 03 
 
 tVoiii tliu highest hills. On the 1st of August no clear 
 water wns visible, except inside the islamls, and this day 
 the inner edge was still visil)le, while the ice-hlink in the 
 sky marked th(> place where the pack had gone. Outside 
 of ITolton Harl)our, and to the north of the Esquimau x 
 Islands, largo hergs were seen at sea. Below the islands 
 small broken bergs only were seen ; but many wei-e 
 aground, and some in contact witli the rocks. It scicms 
 that th(^ ice here works south and westwards, and is 
 In-oken and shot off eastwards at corners. In the lee of 
 capes and clusters of islands, small bergs abounded in 
 the eddies ; but the large ones were at sea, on the weather 
 side or far ofi] The effect of this heayy ice on tlie water- 
 line is here conspicuous. A berg, about 40 feet out of 
 water, was aground, at the back of one steep island. It 
 seemed to have taken the form of the rocks, against 
 which it was ground by a heavy swell. The ice was 
 actually rul)bing the stone for thjit height above M-ater, 
 and for 400 feet under it. It was moved by all the power 
 of an Atlantic wave. Along the whole coast, for a height 
 of from 40 to 50 feet, an irregular zone of rock is thus 
 scoured Ijright and smooth. No seaweed is at the 
 water-line; no lichen colours the rock near it. It 
 is raw stone, smoothed and ground. Higher up, a 
 stunted vegetation begins suddenly, but luxuriantly. 
 
94 
 
 AN AMERICAN TRAMP. 
 
 The stone is blackened with lichens, and hollows are 
 filled with peat, covered with clondberiy, ci'owbeny, 
 rhododendron, and Indian tea, as tliickly as a Highland 
 moor is clad with heather. Gray reindeer moss makes 
 a soft carpet for the feet, and hides the soil, which is 
 the debris of this arctic vegetation. For a height of 50 
 feet, the rocks are polished by the ice-foot, and l)y frag- 
 ments of small beros ; bevond the actual mechanical 
 wearing of ice, the vegetation is nipped by the cold ; but 
 beyond the immediate iulluence of the cold stream, the 
 vegetation struggles with the cold, and successfully. 
 The climate of lat. 71" is carried to 55° at Cape Harrison, 
 and to 47° near St. John's, and 45° near Halifax ; but 
 inland, the cold breath of the Arctic Current fails to 
 blight, and the sun's rays have power enough to force 
 the earth to wear a coat of shrubs and a cloak of forest 
 trees. At Hamilton Inlet trees grow to a large size ; at 
 Colinot, in Newfoundland, the climate is better than it 
 is at Holyrood, 30 miles away, for trees are twice the 
 size ; at Windsor, in Nova Scotia, the western fields are 
 worthy of the old country ; at Halifax, 40 miles off, the 
 eastern forests lool: like Sweden, and the land has ' too 
 much bare bone' for farming. 
 
 At Wasliington pines grow near the coast. In the 
 same latitudes in the central district, no pines grow in 
 
MODKRX riLACIAL I'HIUODS. 
 
 Oi 
 
 thu Ibre.sts ufOliio and Kontuclv 
 
 y. The same tliiii'^ is re- 
 
 peated everywliere on tlie Atlaiit 
 
 ic coast. Wlierev 
 
 er 
 
 the Arctic Current flows, it carries an arctic climate. 
 AVherever the Eriuatorial Current lands, it cari'ic^s lieat. 
 Cape Ilarrisf.n is in lat. 54°, and therefore corresponds to 
 Achil Head, Carlingford Bay, the Calf of :yran, Lan- 
 caster, York, and Flamborough Head. An arctic cur- 
 rent may explain ghicial i)henomena in these rerrion>^ 
 
 Cape Eace is ahout the latitude of La Kochelle, in 
 France. One is a sunny fertile land; tlie other is oidy 
 I'crtilised with fish-offal, and scarce got a glimpse of the 
 sun in 18G4. 
 
 August 3— Air 42^ water 37°.— Fine day, X.W. 
 wind, bright sun, and clear sky. Passing southwards 
 across the mouths of PLamilton Ldet and Sandwich 
 Bays. At 1L30, off Partridge Harbour, a small nook 
 crammed with fore-and-afters going north with salt to 
 fetch fish. The IVIealy .Alountains, the highest land yet 
 seen, were in sight to the westward. The range seemed 
 to be about 1500 feet high, and a few patches of old 
 snow were dotted about. At about 10 or 15 miles 
 from the coast the low hills are covered with trees. The 
 whole coast is a maze of rocky islands set in a blue sea 
 studded with broken white bergs. At any moment a 
 dozen or more could be seen from the deck ; many of 
 
96 
 
 AN AMERICAN TKAMI'. 
 
 tliese were Htr.iiided on rocks ; and tliey were scattered 
 ill clusters where large bergs had newly broken np. The 
 shapes were fantastic in the extreme ; the new fractures 
 angular, like white sugar ; old water-lines rounded and 
 smooth, and pitched at every possible angle. Stopped 
 at Pack Idaiid. The rocks aie about 180 feet high, and 
 consist of a black hornblende (?) which weathers easily. 
 No striie could be found at the top ; but the water-line 
 in a narrow sound was polislu.'d and striated in the 
 direction of the sound about X.X.W. This seems to be 
 fresh work, done by heavy ice drifting from Sandwich 
 ]>ay ; but, on the other hand, stages, with their legs in 
 the sea and resting on these very rocks, are not swept 
 away by this ice. If this be old work, done by extinct 
 glaciers, hred upon the IMealy ^Mountains, then the sea 
 protects the old work, and the air destroys it. Ther- 
 mometer on shore, 62° at noon, and the sun very hot 
 on the rocks. The captain took it into his head to 
 start an hour before his time, and having started, to 
 make our boat row half a mile in his wake. General 
 growl from those who wanted to go and those who 
 wanted punctuality. At 4, stopped at Long Island. 
 Went to the top. The sand is decomposed granite ; 
 ripple-marked by the wind ; the prevailing wind N., 
 magnetic — say N.E. The rock is light-coloured granite, 
 
LONG ISLAND. 
 
 ICI 
 
 niomctcr, 
 OS iibiiii- 
 
 with lumps of daik mica-scliist eiiclosrd Tl 
 70° oil t]i(.' rocks ; CaY on the liill-top ; iiiosciiiit 
 daiit and Ijloodtliirstv. 
 
 V 
 
 The rocks at tlie water-Jinr are all sniootlied and 
 ground, the tops nibbed off hcrizontally. As the hind 
 is risinn-, this form is the result of marine glacial 
 denudation. 
 
 Passed a l)erg near Greedy Harbour, and ^^•heu the 
 busy and thirsty crowd had landed, went witli two chums 
 to see it. It was aground in 90 feet of water (1 o fat horns), 
 tlie height was about 18 feet, and the shape out of water 
 very irregular. A progeny of smaU 'growlers' were 
 bobbing about near the parent Ijcrg. Chjt alongside 
 one and tried to capsize him, ])ut he was too miudi for 
 us. The surflxce was l)arely a foot out of water, and the 
 mass was larger than our jjoat. The proportion of ire 
 above and l)elow was about as much as if the l)oat were 
 floating on end, ^^•ith a sciuare yard of the bow out of 
 water. Broke off a lot of ice, and with great trouble 
 hauled about a cart-load into the boat. It was like 
 glacier-ice, full of hollows and bubbles, and ^'ery hard 
 and cold. AMien melted the water was good t(j drink. 
 Cut out a cube and floated it in a tumbler of salt water, 
 and carefully measured the depth and height with a i)air 
 of compasses and a fine scale. The proportion was 9 
 
 H 
 
 
98 
 
 AN AMERICAN TRAMT. 
 
 below to I al)ovc'. The mass visible is therefore one- 
 tenth of the whole mass. A culjical lierg 300 feet high 
 is 3000 feet thick ; but peaked, prismatic, pyramidal, 
 and ja<'ged bits may lie far higher than this visible 
 Ijroportion, which depends on the mass and its sha]ie. 
 Many people on b(jard assert that ice occasionally sinks. 
 Off St. John's, and far south, one man was in a ])erfect 
 jam of pan-ice when he went to bed. In the morning 
 not a morsel of ice was to be seen anywhere, and the 
 watch said that they had seen the ice founder. If a 
 jam of rotten ice breaking in water at 37°, came sud- 
 denly into water at G9° or 70°, which is the temperature 
 in the Gulf Stream at the tail of the banks, it might well 
 crumble and melt in a few hours without sinking 
 bodily. Green says that he has seen ice go down 
 beside a wharf Many others assert that liergs founder 
 and sink. We had hardly left this berg when it 
 gave a loud roar, and sank considerably, Ijut it was 
 much worn and split, and it only slid do^vn and took a 
 new position. If it fell on a point of rock it must have 
 smashed it. A strong tide ran in the soimd, and this 
 great mass must have pushed with gTcat force upon 
 rocks and stones at the bottom. It was but a small 
 fragment, but it was as big as a large warehouse. 
 Greedy Harbour earned its name that night : thirst was 
 
LARGE UEKUS. 
 
 9U 
 
 ) 
 
 (iueiic'licd. A noisy stoker was thrust into the coal- 
 hole, where! he cursed himself to sleep. The missionary 
 put his head out ori)ed and said mildly, ' Is not that most 
 awful ! Did yon ever see such a (lisi^raceful seene in 
 your life, sir ?' I never did, and that's a fact. 
 
 Avf/Kst 4. — Fine day, N.W., strong Itreeze. The 
 bergg sketched on the way up are in the .same ])ositions. 
 Many of them 'e aground ten and fifteen miles from 
 the .shore, but some have departed. Tlie fcjrce which 
 worked on these rocks is the pressure of a whole current 
 of three or four knots u])on tluj area of ice suhmerged, 
 l^erhaps 200U feet square. Landed again at ln(han 
 Island. 
 
 Looking to the places which were ^■isited on the 
 way north, evidence of the rise of land is ]»lain. Close 
 to the water's edge are raised beaches of boulders, and 
 they have a definite shape. Terraces of erosion, tliough 
 very much weathered, are also seen higli u[), and the 
 shape of the land at the old sea-level is that of rocks 
 awash and under water. On the top are perched 
 blocks, where they must have been drfjpped. Terraces 
 generally are not so well marked as in Scandinavia. 
 
 Stop at American Tickle, a small island with a 
 sound full of vessels. Iiock, pink gneiss or syenite, 
 with bits of blue gray micaceous schist altered and 
 
](M) 
 
 AN AMKltH'AN THAMI' 
 
 iii(l<)SL'<l. A rniscd ]»eueli is ncnr tlie sen. A fjdod- 
 siziMl I)(in- ^vas agroinid close; to llic rocks. IV'iiclics on 
 this coast arc r.'irc : tlicy arc slioit, and icst in ludlows 
 in tli(( rock, iind llicy consist of very large stones of 
 niiiny kinds. In low islands these benches do not occur 
 near tlic tops. In hi.^lier islands they .^ieeni to occur 
 here iind there nt nearly the; same distance lielow tlic 
 top, and they recur elsewhei'e at a short di.stance 
 aljove the sea, forininif narrow necks of hoo-rry land, 
 points, bars, ten-aces, and occasionally an isthnuis. They 
 vSeeni to be deposits made in deep water, and preserved 
 only in spots Mhicli were partially sheltered from heavy 
 seas when the land was risini;. 
 
 Friday, Aiirjmt 5. — "Warm southerly wind, bri<^ht 
 sun, moscpiitos in clouds. They came on board at the 
 harbours, and took their pas.sa^c;e and meals on board, 
 paying with a fine nasal performance on tlie horn. 
 Called at several ports. At Ilawkes Harbour is an 
 isthmus of boulders and a raised beach. Lergs seen on 
 the way north are in the same position M'itli reference 
 to eacli other and the land ; so these are am'ound. 
 Some of the most di.stant have departed, so they were 
 afloat. The water-lines have changed in many cases, so 
 the whole have moved and worked on the sea-bottom. 
 ^Many of these, at the rate of ittS^!} water, must be as 
 
 
} 
 
 It'K-Cl.oLliS. 
 
 101 
 
 I 
 
 lai^'c as Artliur's Scut. Uiic was I'lillv O.'O lin't liiuli, and 
 irs([uare(l, it would si ill he \\\\\y lOO. At tlic nii.tunvd 
 rate il may liavi,' Ihh-u 'JOO IimA deep. It was in rnniact 
 with a rock nearly awash. I[;'r(j is a iiill of ice heat- 
 ing ii[)on the sido of a suhinL'i'gt'd hill of rurk, anil diivtn 
 by the whole loreo ul' tho stream which carried tiie rest 
 away; and in sprin^' and winter the lui'C(.' of a ral'i, (<[' 
 icu hnndreds of miles wide is added. Xear Venison 
 Tiekh; — air no"', water 44''. To seasvard were haid^s and 
 masses of cloud and low fog. These had a delinite shape, 
 and lay in the direction which the heigs must have iol- 
 lowed wlien they drifted southwards. Damp S.W. 
 wind at iJO", in contact with ice .at 32,,, must condense. 
 So these distant clouds ])rol)al>ly contained vanished 
 bergs. Passed Cape Bluff, when.' a cod-seine was at wijrk 
 amongst a lot of hand-line fishers ; and a lot of l)ergs 
 were bobbing about and resting aground On the hill- 
 tops large stones were perched. Tho water-line here is 
 a broken cliff. Han in to Dead Island, passuig between 
 a stranded berg and the shore. A number of boats wen' 
 fishing close to the ice. Stopped to ask the way, so 
 took an opportunity to make a rajiid sketch. The boats 
 gave a good measure of size, and wdien this mass was left 
 behind, distant bergs could be measured by it. Many 
 must be over 2<)ii feet, luin in to Ship Harbour, and 
 
m. 
 
 102 
 
 AN AMr'lICAN TUAMI'. 
 
 nnchoivd t'ni' llie iiij^lit. Tliis is a quiet calm sen-locli, 
 Avitli lii^^h liills vising' Kttji'|»l .' I'roui the water's ed^'e. Tlie 
 llakcH iiuil huts are ujxiu a well-marked terrace of 
 houlders. Two small her^s w(!re sailin;^ alxuit close to 
 tlic (lakes. Sat dowu to sketch them uuder an umhrcUa, 
 and i'ouud that they were uiovin;^ slowly at ahout a yard 
 a minute down wiiul and across the loch. The wind 
 does therefore act upon Ix'rj^'s ; hut very slightly. IMany 
 of our crew landed and went off to (jther harbours. Some 
 fell into difficult ies — over rocks and intoho^s ; but they 
 all appeared at various hours of the night. 
 
 Saturday, Av;iiist 11. — At 0.30 stop at [Murray's 
 JIarhour and sketched a stage. (lot some tish from a 
 shore-boat. This bay is studded with small bergs. 
 Thermometer — air 42", water 37'\ The sea like oil, 
 and the sun bri_,iit. The sea-ice is evidently working 
 westwards in-shore as far as it can. The harbours are 
 full ol" small pieces, the creeks full of little bits. Further 
 off are clusters of larger broken bergs — some higher than 
 the masts of small schooners which are l)ecalmed nea;* 
 them ; some twice the height. In the distance are 
 larger bergs, some with the light behind them telling 
 dark as hills and islands of trap ; others glittering in 
 the sun's rays like \\v\ chalk or polished marble. Yet 
 even these are but ruins, for they are split into peaks 
 

 KTIIN'Or/XlY IN LAItKADOH. 
 
 103 
 
 
 (111(1 (•bflisks wliicli look like the Mw dv (Uaci' nn it 
 is (111 tli(j way th the Col dc (It'init. at tin.' ^rciit ice-l'all. 
 
 Ill the (listaiiro was a line doulilc rclVaction, n scroiid 
 Ikji'Izoh with fi sccdiid Ik'L't (if iiivi-itcd ln.'i|j;s. As the 
 vi'ssol rose mid Tell on tiic swell the two horizons met and 
 parted, and their lierj^^s rose ami fell. A stratum of cold 
 iiir lay oil the water, and the layer above was a mirror to 
 rays falling' at a small allele. Air 42', water 37". 
 
 Ran ill to llallle Ilarlxtur, and found a lari;e lier^' close 
 to the stages. r>(\naii a sk( t<li, but the steamer iis usual 
 set off ill the middle of it. This, the entrance to the Straits 
 of r>elleisle, is erowd'Ml with ber;^s of ([Uaint shapes. 
 
 At tliis ])laf(' a boat niaiined, <tr, it may be, womaned, 
 by Esquimaux, came alongside. They were dressed like 
 other fisher-folk, rowed like sailors, and were steered by 
 a sturdy, rosy nie reliant, who looked very like a Scandi- 
 navian descendant of the Vikin^r out on a cruise in a 
 whale-lioat, Tlu; crew had never seen a steamer before, 
 and the steersman was kind enough to ex[)lain the 
 wonder in Es(|uimaux. That niellilluous speech is not 
 taught at English schools ; but the expression of the 
 auditors' faces, their lo(»ks and gestures, and Saxon 
 words introduced into the lectnre, made the meaning 
 pretty clear. The yellow-bearded commander was tell- 
 ing his brown dependants that the 'Ariel' was alive, and 
 
104 
 
 AX AMElilCAN TKAMP. 
 
 those Oil board were siniimoned to help to prove it. Tlie 
 l)lack-haire(l, half-tamed students of natural history- 
 were very niuch amused, but they were too clever to be 
 gulled, if there be truth in human expression. AMien 
 the ' Ariel' wagged her tail, and swam out of the harbour, 
 pantuig, they seemed ready to caper with delight. They 
 were a ])eople of very ([uaint shape — beardless, brown- 
 faced, black-haired, blubbery, flabby, seal-like, fish- 
 eating, sleepy, good-natured, savage Christians. They 
 are net like fisher Lapps in Scandinavia, who are bonnier, 
 soft-looking Christians, with similar complexions. They 
 are very unlike mountain liapps, who are tough, wiry, 
 liardy little mortals. These follow Banthig's rule un- 
 consciously, feed upon flesh and milk in mountain air, 
 and can walk like wild-cats and other carnivora. Like 
 them, the 'red-skins' and ' mountaineers' of this side, 
 who live by hunting, and feed on flesh, are tough and 
 stringy, well-featured and bright-eyed. Fisher Lapps 
 and Esquimaux, who feed on fish, are somewhat fish- 
 like; and the last groM' up within natural fat greatcoats, 
 like seals of the glacial period in which they live. 
 
 The arcliitecture which we liave seen is very like 
 that of cranoges and lake-dwellings in Ireland and 
 Switzerland. Though a very large, highly-civilized 
 population is busy on tliis coast, scarce a yard of 
 
M UDEK N K ITC H EX-MID Dl'X S. 
 
 10' 
 
 
 
 tf 
 
 i 
 
 niasoiiiy exists in Labrador. Wuodeii buildings are 
 placed as near tlie water us they will g,,. They are 
 cliiefiy built of rouo-h fir-poles, with the bark on; and 
 many of them stand upon stilts in the sea. Beside 
 them ;:re 'kitchen-middens:' piles of severed erania 
 and vertebrae of marine species, mingled ^ith gnawed 
 bones of terrestrial mammalia, amongst which Bus 
 Salinus and Porcus Chicagensis i\,mericanus predomi- 
 nate. A iL>w circular bone and meral ornaments, to wit 
 buttons, some glass beads worn l-y the merniaidens, 
 and some bn.ken bottles, might be found amongst 
 c.xls' heads and beef-bones. A few remnants of fur- 
 bearing animals, egg-shells, old rags, nets, dry biscuit, 
 and sucli-like, might be preserved, with some rusty iron ; 
 but as sea-water had almost eaten up a vrowel, used to 
 build the Skerryvore lighthouse, in about ten yrais. 
 the few iron tools carried to Labmdor have small chance 
 of preservation. ^>ry little crockery finds its Nvay to 
 hand. Human remains, and implements buiied witli 
 them, indicate a very low state of development and civi- 
 lization ; shells and scratched stones demonstrate the 
 existence of severe cold and a glacial period far south. 
 The Esquimaux still use bone instruments ; the In- 
 dians bows and arrows, and stone impleiiients ; and these 
 men are buried where their savage ancestors b^ed and 
 
I 
 
 lOU 
 
 AN AMERICAN TKAMP. 
 
 (lied ; but very few of the 50,000 strong healthy Cau- 
 casians who peo])le the sea in sunnner leave their bones 
 in Labrador. Their remains are buiied near stone 
 clmrches and flourishing- seaports in Newfoundland. 
 In siniilar latitudes are civilized conmnmities, who 
 speculate on stone hatcliets and human skulls. The pre- 
 sent state of things between lat. G0° and 54° may throw 
 light on the arclueology of Denmark and Switzerland, 
 
 I'an in to Henley Harbour, and anchored for the 
 night. Here is a large raised beach of big stones, about 
 forty feet above the sea. It rests on slaly altered gneiss, 
 which splits easily, and on this rests a square block of 
 coluniuar basalt about 250 feet high. It is part of a 
 sheet of which another block rests on a neighbouring 
 \toint, and the sound and harlxjur are ' denuded.' In 
 the warm evening light tlie view M'as very tine. Belle- 
 isle and tlie low coast of Newfoundland beyond the 
 blue strait might have been the coast of France seen 
 from Dover, but the blue strait was everywhere dotted 
 with islands of ice. Thirty-six large bits were counted ; 
 the small bits were numberless, and the temperature of 
 the water was o^J". The ground was clad in an arctic 
 dress of mosses, and Indian cup and berries ; but inland 
 a few forest trees showed tliat the climate was better 
 within a few miles of the sea. 
 
I 
 
 UOG-BKEAKING. 
 
 107 
 
 Exai jied the beaches and rocks at the water-line, 
 especially in sounds. Found tlie rocks ground smootli, 
 but not striated, in the sounds. Where the waves 
 break on points, tlie Ijrittle rock is l)roken liore as 
 elsewhere. Tlie beach-stones are like beach-stones at 
 home ; mussels, coral, and whelks, are the shells. The 
 crowd sent a dog into tlie water after a stone. The 
 dog's master pursued him with boulders, and belaboured 
 him with a l)oard. He explained that lie was a sport- 
 ing-dog, who woul.l be spoiled. Got on board and 
 went to sleep. Provisions reduced to salt beef and salt 
 pork, l)otli hard and lu'oli. 
 
 Sunday, Anrjust 1 ~ Bed i?ay/. — Landed half- 
 dressed and found some striic perfectly fresli at the 
 water-level, l)ut weathered out a short distance inland. 
 A great number of large stones were in the water, and 
 they were of many kinds— granites, and such-like. The 
 direction was E. half K mag., or nearly N.E. true. 
 There are no high hills, and by the cliart this direction 
 accords witli the run of tlie coast, and cuts diagonally 
 over a point. The tail of tlie Arctic Current has^ there- 
 fore made its mark, where it is now moving S.W. In 
 winter this whole strait is frozen. It is possible, though 
 dangerous, to pass it on tlie ico. The bergs are nume- 
 vous; many of them bring stones in the spring; many of 
 
108 
 
 AN AMERICAN TRAMP. 
 
 them ground. The wliole mass moves S.W., and with 
 tlie tide N.E., but most to the S.W., and the striiu are 
 found aindng 8.W., wliile the Land is terraced, and 
 rising slowly from the sea. Got to Lans-a-loup ; 
 anchored, and landed. The cliffs are sandstone, and 
 terraced. The strata arc nearly horizontal, and the 
 weatlier has broken out fantastic doors and windows. 
 The sailors find out a resemblance to forts and castles. 
 The prevailing wind seems to be N. mag. N.W. On 
 the hill-to])s are numerous large perched Idocks of stone, 
 like the rocks further north. The cliffs are crundjling 
 with frost. Tliere is a marked difference in the vegeta- 
 tion ; grass abounds. ^losquitos are furious. Found 
 no sign of any means of getting up the coast to 
 Quebec. So, nolens volcns, stick to the ship, and go 
 back to St. John's. Salmon are to be got here, but 
 there is no large river. A sporting parson has cauglit 
 a few small ones with 11 v. Our i)riest held a congrega- 
 tion, so attended. The first part was a sensible lecture 
 to the men ordering them to work for tl^eir master, who 
 reported that some did not do as much as they ought. 
 They are all working on credit, paying with labour i'or 
 food and gear ach'anced by the merchant or planter, A 
 man who does not work is therefore robbing his creditor. 
 As merchants tinive, these men must be honest workers, 
 
} 
 
 A SKRMON. 
 
 109 
 
 tlioiigli tliey are puor. The second part was a series 
 of short prayers, repeated a vast number of times, very 
 rapidly. The father's mission is to give the iaitld'ul a 
 dispensation to fisli on a coming saint's day if tliey will 
 give their earnings on that day to build a church in 
 St. John's, and so 'bring a blessing on their own la- 
 bours.' There is precious little to be got here now ibr 
 church or layman. After church set off again, and 
 steamed up the straits amongst the bergs once more. 
 As night fell, the old pilot i^ointed out to the captain 
 that Belleisle was on the starboard hand, whereas it 
 ought to be to port. The captain laughed him to scorn. 
 In the night the vessel ran stem on to a cliff in Xew- 
 foundland ; but hapi)ygo lucky they saw it through the 
 mist, stopped the engine, and got round the cape all 
 safe. This is the most experimental of navigation. 
 Twice we have almost touched the cliffs with the bows; 
 we have shaved rocks, of which we knew nothing ; 
 we have run into wrong harbours ; we have stopped to 
 ask the way; ^XQ have groped through dense fogs, 
 without a chart, to places where no one on board had 
 ever been ; but somehow we have got out of the mess, 
 and clear of Labrador, and now it is straight running 
 back to Newfoundland. Our captain deserves infinite 
 credit for his unwearied care of the ship ana crew. 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 THE LABRADOR, 
 
 Monday, Avf/vM 8. — According to experienced men on 
 board, the currents in the Straits of Belle isle are uncertain 
 and vary. When the wind is from the eastward the flood- 
 tide runs three or four knots an hour to the westward, 
 and during the ebb it is about slack water. The rise, full, 
 and change, is about six feet. When the wind is from 
 the westward the current from the gulf and river St. 
 Lawrence overcomes the ocean-current ; but generally 
 there is a constant set from the ocean westward. The 
 same current passes down outside of Newfoundland, 
 eddies round Cape Race, and has caused many wrecks 
 at St, Shots, Beyond the eddy the outer current meets 
 the current from the straits in the gulf, and the two 
 flow together down the coast of Nova Scotia, while the 
 Gulf Stream flows the other *vay outside. So say cap- 
 tains who know the place ; so say the chart and the 
 sailing directions. The water is getting shoaler on the 
 banks of Newfoundland. As the coast is rising, the sea- 
 
A MAltINK COMMOTKJN. 
 
 Ill 
 
 b(.ttom is probably rising i.lso. Jn tlie fall of this year, off 
 St. Shots and St. Mary's Bay, the sea retired suddenly t'o a 
 great distance. Several wrecks were uncovered, and the 
 bottom was dry for several miles. AMion the sea re- 
 turned, it came with such violence that the peojjle were 
 terrified and fled to the hills. Boats were swamped, 
 stages destroyed, and generally therc^ was a grand dis - 
 turl.ancc. Xo shock of an earthquake was felt, and 
 there was nothing peculiar in the weather, which was fine. 
 This looks like a submarine eruption. A man on board 
 says that he noticed Hying fish and gulf-weed off Cape 
 Eace this year. These are marks of the CJulf Stream, 
 and were several degrees farther north than usual. The 
 summer has been very bad, cold and misty. An un- 
 usual quantity of ice has been on the coast. It seems 
 that a shift in the warm Gulf Stream has dislodged 
 enough of arctic ice to bring down a fresh chargrof 
 cold. In Canada, away from the ice, the season" was 
 unusually hot, dry, and clear. A man who has had 
 some experience of ice has never seen a stone on a berg 
 in these latitudes. Captain Anderson, of the ' I'uropa/ 
 who is a geologist, has never seen a stone on a berg in 
 crossing the Atlantic. No stones were clearly seei^on 
 this trip ; but bergs do bring stones to the straits fre- 
 quently, according to men who live there. At Lan.s-a- 
 
112 
 
 AN AMKUICAN TliA.Ml". 
 
 loup, large blocks of granite and otliei" hard stones are 
 deposited on sandstone liills at 200 feet above the sea- 
 hivel, and there is no high gronnd from which n com- 
 mon glacier could come. 
 
 A fair take of fish for two hands in [i boat, during 
 June, July, August, and September, is about 200 
 quintals hereabouts. 
 
 Thermometer 48°, wind N.E., strong breeze, all sail 
 set. At sea passed some large bergs in a haze at 7 A.M. 
 
 In the evening the wind changcnl to a N.E. gale, 
 cold, rainy ; ship rolling, and many sick. 
 
 Tuesday, Avgvst 9. — Twillinget or Toulinguet. 
 Fine day, strong breeze KE., bright sun. The highest 
 hill about this place is 270 feet. Walked up, as the 
 captain did not like to face tlie sea. The landscape is a 
 wide stretch of low rolling hills, points, islands, straits, 
 lakes, and fjords. There is vegetation in plenty, and some 
 trees, chiefly small spruce, grow. The marshes and low 
 grounds are thickly covered with rhododendron and 
 Indian tea, berries and wild flowers, amongst which ai-e 
 wild roses and blue bells. There is a great deal of cul- 
 tivation, and the potatoes, etc, look well, and are good to 
 eat. The main diflerence in the vegetation here and in 
 Labrador is the absence of reindeer moss. The town is 
 built upon a raised beach. The hills have the form of 
 
SEALFRS' ADVENTrRF.S. 
 
 113 
 
 glaciation ; but the rocks aro s,. vveathored that n„ ice- 
 mai'ks wore foiuid away from tlio water-line. In the 
 spring of tliis year, about 150 sail of sealers w(>re beset 
 off this harbour. They were frozen in from Kast(M- Sun- 
 day (March 2) till May. The crews, l.V)0 men, used to 
 walk five or six miles over the ice to shon>, and the in- 
 habitants were obliged to feed them. A.lventures were 
 numerous, of course. A great man)- vessels were crushed 
 and wrecked. When the ice moved south, thev were 
 smashed and ground up. One vessel was forced up on a 
 Large pan of ice, and floated past St. John's ; a steamer 
 was sent after lier, an.d she was rescued near Cap,3 Kace 
 Few men lost their lives. Tliey arc so used to ice that 
 they skip on it like two-legged seals. IJoats are 
 launched and liauled over ice, and so the crews escape 
 though the vessels are lost. In 1848 the ice did not 
 leave this harbour till August. This year it did not 
 go till June. AValked three or four miles to a station with 
 shop and warehouse. The man has built liis wooden 
 liouse on a low rock in the sea, and a bridge to get at it 
 from the shore. He built one which the i-e carried 
 away ; this one has stood the brunt so far. The ice is 
 18 inches thick near the shore. This fellow had a fio]it 
 with the sealers, about grog of course. His son, who" is 
 a kind of giant, thrashed the rioters, and they in revenc^e 
 
114 
 
 AN AMIMMCAN TUAMT. 
 
 daniaj^'cd tlic famous brid^'o witli axes, neturncd to tlio 
 nppoint(!(l tiiiic, and loiind tlu3 captain with his mind 
 made up to stop all day, as tlie soa outside; was break- 
 ing heavily, and Fogo is l)t'tbro us. Some of the crowd 
 went to a i)irjnic : I went to Ix^d. Thermometer, 48°. 
 
 WcdnesJai/ 10 — Air 50", water 40". — Off Fogo. 
 Gray sky. No bergs in sight. The coast about Little 
 Fogo Island is all rounded ; there arc no cliffs here. 
 The weather this day is very curious. At one moment 
 the air is clear and the sun shining. A low bank of fog is 
 seen ahead, and the vessel's bow disappears when she 
 enters it. A thin fleecy veil comes first, and then she 
 Y^lu.nges into thick diirkness. In a couple of hours or 
 less she plunges out again into bright light and clear 
 air, and the fog bank is seen like a wall on the horizon 
 listern. It is a purple cloud on a dark-blue rolling sea. 
 A large shoal of porpoises came alongside, rolling and 
 leaping like mad things. Some of the party fired at 
 them, and missed of course. 
 
 ricked up a boat with a heavy cod-seine and four 
 hands in it, gave them a tow with a very long rope, 
 and dragged their bows under at every sea. It looked 
 very dangerous, but no one seemed to care. These fel- 
 lows were blowui off, and have not been in for three 
 days ; they were cold and wet and tired. Cast them 
 
OEYKIi VOr.Kl. 
 
 11". 
 
 looso off their Ji;irb(.iir, wlicn tlicy hoisted a n- of a 
 siiil and iniKic tor shore. Some purls of tliis day's sail 
 refjuired <.,k,(1 pijota-e. Th.' eoiirse lay hrtwc.-ii two 
 Ion--' reefs apj.areutly on the strike of thr rocks. Tlie 
 lon^' heavy sea.. f tile lal.- -ale roared aixl llmndcn-d nwr 
 these sunken liills, making a Icarrul din. Watched ll,e 
 breakers, M-liieli made tlir most extraor.liiiary lurmnil.as 
 there was a cross sea riinnini.- two ways at once. About 
 40 miIesoutsi<le lie the Funks. Hereuse.l to be great num- 
 hers of (b-y,.,. jog,,].* Their skeletons arc n..w brought t.. 
 St. John's with guano. Anchor at Green's 1 ond \\>i tiio 
 night. Stayed on board while the crowd went ..n a spree. 
 T/ntrsdaf/ 11/A.— Set oil' cai'ly. Strong breeze, 
 heaAy sea, air 48°, water 47° ; tc.(,k nim^ lioui-s to go 30 
 miles to King's CWe. IJaroiueter iiillen half an inch, 
 heavy rain. Two men who went foraging for the mess 
 were left behind, but they can walk ovei'Land. Steamed 
 to Bitona Vista and anchored. Barometer still falling, 
 nearly an inch down since last night. The wind sud- 
 denly lulled, and changed from S.W. to X.W., when it 
 blew harder than ever. It came howling and singing a 
 shrill chant amongst the rigging, while blue and yellow 
 lightning flared and flashed, and thunder rattled a ter- 
 rible bass. The rain came down in bucketsful, and 
 
 * The great auk. 
 
llii 
 
 AN AMKUICAN TKA.Ml' 
 
 tliL'ic was a regular sturin. It si'ciii.s a« il' we had got 
 into flic imMilIc ol" a small tonuidc). Stayed on ])oard. 
 Tilt! ei'owd had a roiiuh tiiin' of it coiiiiii'' oil" in the 
 iii^lit. One man tired of salt junk went to a dozen 
 houses kncK'kin^ up the natives. When the sleejiy mor- 
 tals eaiiK! to their windows the (|nestioii was, ' Have you 
 nny lamh ?' Tiiere was none, hut u man had some 
 chickens, so tli< y were hrounht oil" alivi; and crammed 
 into another Icllow's hed. Then cami; a shindy, Mhicli 
 suhsided towards morning'. Then the ehain-mang heyan 
 to hciive. Truly sleepin.L;' is a I'cat on hoard this ship. 
 
 Friilaji VI. — Tlier. 4S", Ijurometer down, sea rolling 
 overy way at once. Tliei'e are tw(» tame wild-geese 
 on board, a ho\ of live rahhits in the Ibre-cahin, a cat 
 in the men's In-rth, three sick men in the hold amongst 
 the coals, a wet dog running about the deck and seeking 
 rel'uge in the berths. There is a sick woman crammed 
 into a hole above the screw ; ai- our long-passage crowd 
 and several new hands, inidudiiig the jNI.P. for Toulin(|uet 
 and the Speaker of the House. Had some eggs brought 
 from the Funks ; they were good. IJan into Catalina 
 and Trinity, where we picked up a doctor, who was sick 
 innnediately, and so continued, llan across the bay to 
 Old Purliken, and took in another sick woman and her 
 lUuighter. The water at Trinity was 52° in the harbour. 
 
LAUUADOK U'XL'UY. 
 
 117 
 
 Hull in to Hiuboiir Grace aiul ancliorcil a;j;ain, as it \va« 
 Id'twinij; a wIidI*' >^i\h. The < lowd went on shore, ami 
 .soinc ol' tlit'iu tossed IV)V eliamiia;;ne t ill tlir small hours ; 
 one drank a i-iiit w ith a si'idlitz hef'ore hrcakl'ast. Several 
 verv damp ehccrful men warndv shodk hands with mo 
 in hed , hut 1 have a very dim recollcetion of the even- 
 ing, liaviiiLj accpiired the art of sleejiing under dillieulties. 
 
 It' any *A' these slii|»mates ha|t|ien to read this and 
 recognise the writer, let them accejit his cordial thanks 
 fur tlieir kindness durinu the vovulu*. 
 
 All on lioiird I'clt and constantly nientiianMl their 
 high a[>jti'oval ol' the ea[)tain"s skill and un\vearii'(l atten- 
 tion to his very arduous duties. I'air or I'oul he was at 
 his post ; day and night \u: was always av.akc, hright and 
 cheerful ; and on such a voyage he had to kee|) his wits 
 bright. With thick weathei-, no good (diart, and such 
 a coast, h(! had a hard time of it, 
 
 The way of our life of late was thus : — At some un- 
 known hour, a steward, housemaid, cook, ami house- 
 keeper — a num with a powerful Newfoundland-Trish 
 brogue, M'ho had been a sealer, and a traveller — an- 
 nounced that breakfast would be ready 'directly;' and 
 accordingly, in due time, those who sle]»t on tables and 
 chairs in the main cabin were turne(l out, and the rest 
 tumbled in. A single cabin-steward, who probably never 
 
118 
 
 AN AiMEIUCAN TUAMI'. 
 
 had washed himself, and wliose hair woiihl always curl 
 over his nose into his mouth at the most interesting 
 moments, <'i])])eared hearing the salt heef, and shortly 
 afterwards tlie salt pork ; and hy diving througli the 
 cabin lloor the same olHcial contrived to extract a supply 
 of biscuit. Tea, with or without milk, and salt butter, 
 complrtod the breakfast. Dinner was the same ; pork 
 and beef, with cask M'ater instead of tea. Tea was ditto 
 repeated, the pork and beef being cold for a change. 
 We who lived forward had a bowing acfpiaintance 
 with the beef and the i)ork ; they lived together in a 
 barrel of salt \\ater, and bolibed about us cheerfidly 
 as we clind,)ed out of our den. In the happy, lux- 
 urious days of our first start, when we had fresh 
 meat for dinner, the mortal remains of a tout>li 
 sheep, and the disjecta 'luciuhra of an ancient cow, lay 
 swathed in an old sail on the top of our companion- 
 Initch, Whoever j)ut his head out to see how the 
 weather looked, risked 'colliding' with sheep or cow, 
 as mutton or beef; but no one seemed the worse at 
 dinner-time. On Fridays we had salt fish, and occa- 
 sionally soup and pudding. Arrived opposite to some 
 landing-place, and the captain having announced that 
 he would stop ' two hours,' the passengers and the good- 
 humoured crew lowered the boats, and scrandiled into 
 
THE LABKADOK MAIL. 
 
 Ill) 
 
 them. At first we went anyhow ; but finding that 
 method objectionable, the port and starboard tables took 
 separate boats and raced. 
 
 Having reached the land, those who had business in 
 the place clattered and slid over the rocks and fish 
 offal into the nearest house, and the rest followed. We 
 were a goodly company— a priest, a missionary, se\eral 
 clergymen of various denominations occasionally, and ten 
 or a dozen hardy, active, young merchants learning their 
 work thoroughly by doing it themselves. Crammed 
 hito a wooden room, we filled it. T]io converse was 
 fishy. How many (juintals a man ? How many had 
 we heard of? Where was the best take ? What would 
 be the price ? It was a keen encounter of wits between 
 buyers and sellers, del)tors and creditors, capital and 
 labour, all eager for intelligence to be turned int(j gold ; 
 and yet the 'Ariel' is all that Xewfoundland turns out 
 in the way of steam-power applied to mails. 
 
 Questions and answers diy throats, and ere many 
 minutes had passed a bottle usually appeftred. He was 
 often the last of his race, ar. ' he bled for his country 
 freely. For half an liour the clergy did their duty, 
 while the merchants transacted tlieir Imsiness, and tiie 
 only real idler on board used his eyes. V>y that time 
 the captain had generally l)lown the steam-wliistle, and 
 
120 
 
 AN AMERICAN TRAMP. 
 
 the l)oats had to return. It was a hard race to get a 
 boat hoisted first ; and it often happened that the two 
 sliort hours allowed were g-rievously curtailed. Some- 
 times two hours lengthened into half a day, but the 
 passengers were tethered to the ship by this uncertainty. 
 When a gale or a fog came on we knew what to do, 
 and l)roke loose accordinulv. At ni-'lit some went to 
 bed, but some one always had business which kept him 
 awake, and many walked great distances in the dark. 
 At any liour a stream of damp mariners, headed by the 
 representative of some firm, might pour down our hutch, 
 pour porter down their own throats, chew, spit, and 
 smoke, while they talked fisli on boxes in the forehold by 
 the light of a tallow dip. When they came, they stayed 
 till the ship was ready to move, or the porter expended. 
 Great, strong, rough, sturdy, hearty, wet mariners they 
 were. It was pleasant to watch their weather-beaten, 
 brown faces, and listen dreamily to their long yarns, 
 and then gradual y to drop off and kick the bald head 
 of the old snoring pilot in the next bunk. When the 
 ship was about to move she let us know. First the 
 crew turned out, and they were only a plank off next 
 door ; then the engines l)egan to rumble in their insides, 
 and then to scream ; then some one rung a furious big 
 l)ell at the open hutcn, and then the whole crew dashed 
 
THE ABODE OF PEACE. 
 
 121 
 
 the whole iron chain, with all their pith, upon the 
 deck immediately over this abode of peace. In an- 
 other hour a phace, an iceberg, an ishmd, a whak', or 
 something else, made it absolutely necessary to get 
 up and go on deck. At first it was difficult to sleep, 
 at last ^VG all slept like tops and enjoyed the noise 
 amazingly. Xo one ever really enjojed the pork, but 
 constant foraging only produced a very little ediljle fish, 
 a do7»n or two of gulls' eggs, and one brace of small 
 chickens. Those who had brought strong liquor consoled 
 themselves, and while the stores lasted they offered fluid, 
 solid, and vaporous consolation to those who had none of 
 their own. :\Iay their shadows increase ! Those who 
 did not drink strong liquor did as best they could with 
 strongly-coloured water, whicli lived in a cask beside 
 the larder, near the hatch of the fore-hold. 
 
 We were the admirals and merchant-princes of these 
 seas, the very cream and top oil of St. John's, and the 
 best of bay-men, and so we fared in the best mail-boat 
 in the colony, specially chartered to visit tlie most im- 
 portant of her fishing-grounds, and carry news for 
 1 1 U,304 anxious people. Steamers, regular as clock-work 
 and comfortable as yachts, run round the Xorth Cape 
 of Norway once a fortnight, and a telegraph spreads 
 news of herring along the whole of that northern coast. 
 
109 
 
 AN AMERICAN TRAMP 
 
 The ice wliicli does so much harm appears to have 
 congealed the energies of the British colonists. 
 
 On the other h.'ind, there is energy enough and to 
 spare somewhere in the people. In jMarch they fight 
 seals and the pack, and it is a desperate battle. As 
 soon as the ice Avill ])('rniit, they flit nortlnvards to 
 'the Labrador' to fish cod. There they fight the 
 battle of life with cold and hardship, wa\'es, ice, storm, 
 and mist. They go to their ground in small vessels 
 crammed as the hold of a slaver is crammed. AVhen 
 they get there they live chieiiy in open boats, or 
 camp on bare rocks, in rickety wooden shanties that 
 look as if a pufi' would blow them to sea. Norwegians 
 who fisli in darkness, in the dead of winter, within the 
 Arctic Circle, have better lodging and w^armer weather. 
 AVhen the short summer of Labrador ends, the men put 
 the boats into the ships, and pile themselves and their 
 fish into the holds. ^Men, women, and children, sick 
 and sound, ship and gear, off they go down stream to 
 Newfoundland, and there they spend their winter in 
 running ui) a ItcsIi score, to be worked out in seals and 
 cod, blubber, li\'er, and men's lives, in jNIareh. No one 
 knows the number of this floating crowal. The fixed 
 population of the Labrador was about 1650 in 1857 ; the 
 lishers come from everywhere, and must exceed 50,000. 
 
'PLENTY OF FISH AT BKIG IIARHOriJ.' 
 
 1213 
 
 Sucli a Strang!.' lierd of inignitory aiiii.liil)ioiis crea- 
 tiiivs— men and seals— exists nowliereelse ; to see tlieni 
 was wortli tlie trouble of this trip ; ],ut wliy that trouble 
 should exist in a rieh J3ritish colony in 1804, is incom- 
 prehensible. There is no direct mail comnnuiication 
 with Enghmd or Canada, though tlie im]V)rts aud ex- 
 ports of Newfoundland exceed a million sterling, and 
 tiie i)ort of St. John's is very famous Ibr imported port 
 wine, which is earned in Labrador. Still in my dreams 
 there comes a loud drawling shout of — ' 1'le.nty of 
 Fisii AT Brig Hai;i5(juk.' 
 
 In 1803 the Sti-aitsof ]]elleisleM-er(! crannned with cod ; 
 so, in 1804, lots of vessels went there tor cargoes. ' When 
 they got there the cupboard was bare ;' so the fore-and- 
 afters went prospecting up the coast. Each crew, as the 
 steamer passed down, hailed for news. It so ha])pened 
 tliat Brig Harbour was near the furthest i)oint reached, 
 and the first ship met on tlie way Ijack was told to go 
 there. Thenceforth it grew into a liabit, and thially it 
 became a joke. Every ship tliat hailed was sent to 
 Brig Harbour, and every one altered course and set off 
 at once. There must ha\e been a large fleet there in 
 xVugust. 
 
 There were ' plenty of fisli in Brig Harl^our,' l)ut 
 (pute as many at other si)ots, and some of the vessels 
 
124 
 
 AN AMERICAN TRAMP. 
 
 were sent a fool's errand as far as from Dover to New- 
 castle. Surely it would pay to run a proper mail up 
 tliat strangest of strange wild coasts, ' the Lal)/ador.' 
 
 Satunhnj 13.— Off rt daylight. Thor. 48°. Blowing 
 very hard, and a heavy sea on. The vessel rolled so 
 that 1 had to hold on in my herth and jam myself 
 against tlie ends. One man, being very sick, fetched 
 way, rushed headlong over the cabin in his shirt, and 
 plunged into the priest's berth ; his fist took him under 
 the ear, and nearly brained him. The next lurch sent 
 him sprawling on all fours, feet foremost, back to his 
 own side, apologising witl> all his might. In another 
 minute he was successfully gick, and l)ack again to bed 
 quite well. Eose at 8, and watched the sea, which 
 was very grand. Eeached St, John's at i).30. It has 
 been a curious trip, unquiet and uncomfortable, but 
 good fun on the whole. Spent the rest of the day in 
 eating and washing, and reading the Times in the news- 
 room, to which a shipmate introduced me a stranger. 
 
I 
 
 CHAPTER VTI. 
 
 AVALON. 
 
 Monday 15.— AValkod round tlie liarbour down to the 
 lightlionsu. Tlie rocks at tlu; point are a very coarse 
 sandstone, made up of 2)ebbles of granite, white and red 
 quartz, jasper, and sandstones of sorts, in a matrix of hard 
 red sand. Joints in the rock pass through tliese pebbles, 
 and are filled with white (^uartz in crystals. No fossils 
 to be seen. In some beds, the round water-^\-orn peb- 
 bles are worn smooth, and to an even surface, as if the 
 beds had slid one upon the other in the process of up- 
 heaval. The dip 50° K To th(; north and westward are 
 slates underlying the sandstone. The valleys and lines 
 of hill correspond generally to the strike ; and in this 
 case the slate has been more worn than the sandstone. 
 The narrows are made by a gap crossing the sandstone, 
 and the glacial striae come from the high grounds 
 behind the town, and rise up and over the range of hills 
 which make the coast-line. Ice now comes in from the 
 sea. On the 2d of June 18G3, the harbour was filled 
 
12G 
 
 AN AMERICAN TRAMP 
 
 witli it, and tlio sea in tliu oiling was covered to the 
 horizon. Every wint(!r the liarbour freezes to 18 inches 
 or more ; and in Alarch vessels are cut out. This is the 
 glacial period at St. John's. The rocks at the water- 
 line are ground smooth, hut not striated. AVhen a 
 heavy st!a conu?s rolling in from the Atlantic, heavy 
 breakers beat over this point, and the narrows are tilled 
 with the broken water ; but the water-line is unlike the 
 clilfs of the opposite coast, where rocks are broken by 
 such bn^akers. Close jdjove the water-line the rocks 
 are weathered l)y frost, so that hard ribs project half a 
 foot beyond the surface, and pebbles stand out like stones 
 on a beach. There is nothing in these ice-marks of the 
 present like the fresh sharp stria^. which run over the 
 top of Signal-hill, 540 feet above the sea-level, and wliich 
 have resisted the weather so as to be perfectly clear. 
 "Walked up to the hill-top. Levelled the top of Signal- 
 hill, and made it 540 feet. The highest point on this 
 side is 030. The highest ridge inland is about 800, 
 distant about 4 miles. Looking down from this point, 
 the shape of the cour^^-v generally corresponds to the run 
 of the currents, X.E. and S.W. magnetic, al)out K 12° 
 E. true. The glacial striix? can only be accounted for by 
 supposing that the hollows wctg tilled with ice, so as to 
 overflow seawards. The heat ve y oppressive — 78° in the 
 
HKNT IN NRWFOUXDLAM). 
 
 127 
 
 sun, 70' in tlie shade. Sprang tliroe reipor ' partrid^^c.' 
 Lay under the shadow of a big perclicd block, panting 
 and smoking, and rejoicing in a breeze of north wind. 
 Lots of women and girls were gatliering partridge-lx-rries 
 on the hills. The tops are l)are tors, but weathered. 
 Every hollow contains a marsh or a small ])ond ; every 
 one of these has a fringe of scrub, thick and tangled. 
 On trying to return, got into o' nicket, and nearly stuck 
 there. Struggled through, and got hold (,f H,,. ,.iid of 
 a path which led to a small cottage with a [lotato-gar- 
 den and a tlock of goats. The owner was an old chat- 
 tering Irishman, with lame legs ; and he and three girls 
 were seated on a rock basking. Joined the partv, and 
 basked for half an hour, listening to the old man's ac- 
 couiit of himself and his ailments, and his faniih' history. 
 Asked him if he paid any rent. 'Faith and I do ; one 
 shilling ; and I pay it over there at the oiiice every year 
 regular.' On heaving, found some rocks newly laid bare 
 in the path. Stride, not well marked, seem to run j.aral- 
 lel to the harbour— E.N.E. mag, or nearly at right angles 
 to the strice on Signal-hill. There seems to have been no 
 general direction of movement here. IVfade a hurried 
 sketch of the harbour, and got back at dark. A\'rote till 
 bed-time, and smoked hard. Walked about 10 miles 
 only, and felt as if I had walked 30. 
 
128 
 
 AN AMERICAN TRAMP. 
 
 Tacschiy IG. — Walketl alxnit tlie town in tlie morn- 
 ing, and hired a man, and liis liorse and trap, for £1 cur- 
 ronoy per diem, to go to Colinct, and wliercvcr else I 
 chose. Got under weigh at 2, in a small donhle pluTton, 
 with .c chestnut nag ; driver, Ned Ih'cenan, in a steeple- 
 hat, looking as if he nu'nnt U) Ite a regular woodman 
 for this tri]). He wms a dark-liaired, hook-nosed man, 
 in a loose gray frock, and generally he looked like work. 
 Ther. 53", wind X., the air feeling sharp and chilly after 
 the heat of yesterday. I)rove over the hills and down 
 to Topsail, 030 feet, hy (his road. The whole country is 
 covered with glacial drift, the rock gray and yellow slate ; 
 the hill-tops are hare and much rounded. Farms are 
 numerous ; oats still green ; lots of raspherries ripe in 
 the woods. The valleys are clad with a dwarf forest of 
 spruce — black, red, and white. The descent to Placentia 
 Bay is in a glen, with glaciated rocks, moraines, and all 
 oth(ir ice-marks, strice excepted. These were not con- 
 spicuous ; at least none were seen from the trap. Walked 
 on ahead 7 miles from Topsail ; the country is a mass 
 of boulders of large size, heaped, and piled, and spread 
 about everywhere. Drove on to Holyrood — 30 miles in 
 all. Stopped at a little roadside inn, with a large chim- 
 ney in the kitchen. Two good-looking girls and an old 
 woman were the inhabitants, and pigs and poultry came 
 
TIIK WATF-n-nULL. 
 
 129 
 
 t'xl'lling in as if ll„. pla.-o woro their own. .^ui.p..! 
 witli tln> .Iriver, and slept in a small olosi.t ..I" a vonm, 
 IVoni uhich I coiil.l lu-ar all the rest of the ,.,>,.|,I,. n„i„u. 
 to bed. Jlad a h.ncr jaw with an eld skii.].,-.- who owns 
 the house : subject, the Labrador seals an.l cod. One 
 subject started was the 'sea-cow.' Tiiron-hout Die 
 British Isles the Celtic population lirndy believe in the 
 existence of an amphibious and very uncanny creature, 
 v.-hich, according to their account of him, is a little gray 
 water-bull. He lives in frc^sh-water lakes, comes" on 
 ■shore, breeds with tame cattle, and does no particular 
 harm ; but he has something supernatural in his imtmv, 
 and no one likes to venture at night to places haunted 
 by the Taral)h uisge. He frequents sea-lochs and the 
 ocean, where no large or deep fresh-water lakes exist. 
 This belief is so genuine, and stories told about the 
 appearance of * the bull' are so very circumstantial, that 
 many Saxons have adopted the popular creed. English 
 sportsmen have watched beside Scotch lakes for a'shot 
 at the monster ; proprietors have tried to drain ponds 
 and catch him, and, when that scheme failed, they have 
 whitened the water with .piick-lime to kill him by foul 
 means. An English nobleman, distinguished for his 
 learning and accomplishments, once took the trouble to 
 write down all that he could learn about this mysterious 
 
 K 
 
i:'.() 
 
 AN AMKIUCAN TI5AMI'. 
 
 crciiturc, and tliu ovidt'iicc cullccted l)y him would liiive 
 gone far lo provM! a case in any couit. Tlic lirli(!t" is not 
 peculiar to imy one l)raiu'ii ol' tli(! Celtic poitulation of 
 the Ili'ilisli Isli'S ; it seciins to i)rivad(! all \\lio dwell 
 near tin- Atlantic coast. Tlio very sanu! notion ])n'vails 
 in Iceland. A few years a^o a fanner described a water 
 creature which he had seen in a lake there, and some 
 En<;lis]i Kitortsnien set off in juirsuit. It was not .'i 
 horned specimen, but it was as bi^- as a cow. lu New- 
 foundland the same story is told, with more details and 
 circumstances. On board tlie ' Aricd' our nude liouse- 
 maid positively declared that he had seen a creature in 
 the ice whicli liad the head and front and forele^js of a 
 cow. It rose beside * a pan,' and scrambled half out 
 of water close to a lot of sealers armed with ^auis and 
 pikes and clubs. They were afraid to use their weapons, 
 and after a time the water-cow, horns and all, subsided 
 and disa[)peared. The hinder end of him seemed to faL 
 away something? like a seal ; but he was neither seal nor 
 walrus, for he had little crooked horns on his head, and 
 feet like a cow. With this yarn reeled up, the old 
 sailor-landlord was set to s])in another, and he spun it 
 ' right away' directly the bait was offered. He knew 
 all about the beasts. IMany of the sealers had seen 
 them in the ice, but they did not like to meddle w .th 
 
IKllUAlKti AM) IJKACHKS. 
 
 i:;i 
 
 i 
 
 tliL'in, and no one liad vw.v killed u hcu-cow, sf) far as lu' 
 knew, it' tlii.s Taral»li nisge ]>(> a creation of (.Nllic 
 brains, he ccrtaiidy is tiu! most material ' tarradiildlu' 
 yet born of linnian iniaeination. 
 
 Wednesday 17. — Uji early, ami walke(l down to tlu; 
 Siliore. The drift of yesterday S(!ems to be a vast ter- 
 race, risin;^- to loO feet alonj^ tla* bill-side, for 15 or 1(J 
 miles aloni;' tbe sbon; of Placentia i'»ay. The r<icks in 
 the land-wash, where sea-iee now works in wintei-, are 
 striatetl in the direction of the bay, bnt this seems to 
 be old ic(^-work not yet destroyed The rock is slaty, 
 gray, and mnch weathered where ex[iosed t(» the air. 
 The bill-tops : ,t! great tors, all ronnded and (piite 
 bare ; tbe low gronnds are eovered with thick forests 
 of small trees ; tbe coast oidy is cleare(l and settled. 
 All tbe able-bodied are n]> at the Labrador. (iot 
 under weigb at 10.20 ; drove down to one of these 
 fiuaint raised beacbes wbieli abound in this bay. They 
 are large ram])arts of rolled stones, about as l)ig as small 
 turnips, whicli run along tbe coast in swee])ing curves ; 
 sometimes they cross the nioutbs of small barbours and 
 rivers, and make brackish lakes. These bave no sort 
 of rosend)lance to tbe terraces and lieavy drift on shore. 
 Rose tbe bill again tbrougb fields manured witb tisb- 
 guts, and redolent thereof. Cabbages, carrots, potatoes, 
 
n 
 
 132 
 
 AN AMERICAN TRAMP, 
 
 Iiay, fine grass, and grain of sorts, growing well. Climbed 
 to the top of a great bare tor which rises at the very 
 end of riacentia Bay ; it is GOO feet high. The rock 
 seems to be felspathic ash, too much weathered for 
 stria? ; Init this hill is a tor. Looking down, it is mani- 
 fest tliat a glacier slid towards the magnetic K.E., down 
 into this bay from the hills, which here make an 
 isthmus about 25 miles wide, and only 550 feet high 
 at the watershed. Hills 1000 feet high are seen, and 
 from these the ice came. In short, thougli no striie are 
 preserved, the whole evidence points to large glaciers 
 following the general slope c " the land down the hills 
 and into the bays on the east coast. The piles of drii't 
 are the moraines. In passing along the road the loose 
 stones change. At one place granite abounds, and granite 
 is in the hills ; al another, slate is the prevailing rock 
 in the drift, and the hills are slate. On this tor numer- 
 ous very large blocks of coarse sandstone are poised on 
 the bare hill-top, isolated from all neighbouring hills ; 
 but the hills inland are sandstone, and higher than this 
 hill. The last glaciation of Newfoundland was cer- 
 tainly effected by a local system of glaciers, which were 
 high enough to cover hills now 600 feet above the sea, 
 and to grind the glens below them. 
 
 Drove on up a very l>ad road into a forest, which got 
 
A XEWrOUiNDLANlJ IJKEL. 
 
 133 
 
 gracliially thicker and liiglier, as the cold sea was left 
 and the wanner sea approacJied. The weather very hot, 
 and flies in clouds. Vegetation changing rapiu.y. 
 Rubus arcticus, dog-rose, rasj-herrv, strawherrv, sweet 
 gale, rhododendron, larch (called junipei'), and a thick 
 luxuriant scrub of other plants, hid the ground : the 
 trees grew so thickly that a man could hardly forci; his 
 way edgeways between the trunks. The lakes were 
 fringed with trees growing almost in the water, and 
 covered with yellow waterlily and water-plants. The 
 open leads which occurred here and there were wet 
 marshy nniir. 8toi>ped at the half-way house, and 
 sketched as well as the flies would let me. Hearing 
 music, went in and found a wandering mason dronin- 
 out a reel or a jig, and a driver dancing witli a pretty 
 wild-looking girl. He handed her over to me, and to 
 please them rather than to gratify myself, I also 
 capered. The old landlady, who looked like a bolster 
 tied in the middle, sat in an arm-cliair made of an 
 old herring-barrel, and applauded. Drove on down- 
 hill to Colinet, stopping for a few minutes at the 
 bridge at Salmoniere. This river is a succession of 
 sliallow streams and deep woedy ponds in the Ibi-est. 
 It was vain to fish there, so drove on, getting gradunlly 
 nut of the forest into a more open country. The (h-iver 
 
134 
 
 AN AMERICAN TUAMI' 
 
 proposed tisliiiig in a Aveedy loch Ly thu voad-side. 
 Would not insult my tackle l)y puttin,!;' it into such a 
 hole. Got ferried over tlie Colinct river l)y two pretty 
 little girls, and took up ([uarters in tlie house ot" Davis, 
 a noted deer-hunter and jjoacher, who was awny ' in the 
 country' with a party oi" deer-shooters. Asked the old 
 dunie, and Helen Davis, her pretty daughter, to get some 
 tea, and Avjtlked a mile to the otlier river, where is a fall 
 ahout which a [)iec(' of work is made. It is pretty 
 enough — a stream tund)liiig over the fudges of some 
 slaty rocks, the hcds making water-sli i'^s of great regu- 
 larity. The last slide is into salt watrr, but fish come 
 up nc'v ;.rtheless. 
 
 Tliursdoii 18. — Up early ; fine bright day. Went 
 a-fishing with Xed l»reenan, who pretended to know all 
 about the rivers and the country. Went first to the fall, 
 and tried all the holes, catching one little par. Gave 
 that np, and tried the other river, which was a mere rill 
 in a wide bed of stones. It was full of par and char ; 
 killed 100, and lost a great numy amongst the stones, 
 and while wading. Dined on the bank, by the help of 
 the kettle. Late in the evening went up about a mile 
 and found some dee])e]' holes, Mr. Ned having informed 
 me that there were none. Hooked a small salmon in one 
 of these pools, and broke the casting-line, which had got 
 
SALMON-FISIllNC;. 
 
 1 ') - 
 loo 
 
 worn amongst the stones. It was evident that all the 
 sahiion had gone np as far as tliey conhl. On retnrning 
 Ibund tlie luinters come liome IJaiik. Tlie sportsman is 
 a schoohriastv^r .at Placentia, and had come to Colinet 
 with an attendant to spend liis vacation in the woods. 
 They went about twelve miles inland to the second 
 ])ond, and there camped. When their fire was made the 
 salmon came plunging about in the deep water close to 
 the land-wash, ' large salmon a yard long.' They thought 
 they w ere deer, they th(night they would lea]) on shore, 
 etc. In short, there were plenty of fi.sh in the upper 
 pond, wdiere 1 wanted to go, and where Xed Ih-eenan did 
 not, as it now ap])eared. They had seen a gq'eat many 
 deer-tracks and one deer. He was in the river, but be- 
 fore the sport.-num could make up his mind to fire, the 
 deer had leaped into the forest, and there was an end of 
 him. Sat over the fire jawing till late. Old Davis is a 
 manifest poacher, but a nice old fellow. 
 
 Friday 19. — Set off for the first pond to try for 
 a salmon. Xed Breenan retired to the stable, and, as 
 it transpired, slept all day. Old Davis shouldered my 
 basket and his own gun, which was two yards long at 
 least. I shoukUu'ed my rod, and we marched off into ' the 
 country.' Our way lay through 'leads,' marshy land 
 overgrown with rein-moss, nmltiberries, and such-like. It 
 
13G 
 
 AN AMKKICAN TRAMP. 
 
 was muggy md liot, and misty and rainy , and at every 
 step my feet sank over the shoes in something like a 
 wet sponge witliout the spring. The old man, with 
 broad-soled shoes and his lighter body, scarcely sank 
 where I went far above the ankles at times. It was 
 very hot surely, and tlie Hies were bloodthirsty, venomous, 
 vicious, and numerous exceedingly. They were as bad 
 as in Sweden, and that is about as bad as can well be. 
 The armies were headed by horse-bees, creatures half an 
 inch long, with daggers in their noses. Then came 
 smaller pests, as big as large bluebottles; then gally- 
 nippers or n.osquitos, which bored holes in the skin 
 through stockings and trousers ; and the rest of the Hying 
 squadron was made up of small midges and black flies, 
 which bit and stung, and sang and buzzed, and tickled 
 every scrap of bare skin. l*ut a handkerchief under my 
 hat, and got along tolerably. Deer-tracks were pretty 
 numerous and fresh, but there was not a bird to be seen 
 for six miles of this plodding, neither bird nor feather. 
 By turning and twisting round points of forest, we kept 
 in this ground till within a mile of the pond ; here we 
 dived into the wood, following a path. It was merely a 
 track in which a few branches had been lopped oft' to 
 make head-room, and no stranger could have kept it. 
 The old man kept it, and led to sundry trunks laid over 
 
A beavp:k town. 
 
 137 
 
 deep streams, which we scrambled over by the help of 
 poles. He and his sons come here for birds and e<nrs 
 
 DO ' 
 
 and this is their path, used for many years, and still a 
 wilderness. Arrived at the pond, found a weedy hole, 
 with waterlilies close to the bank, so did not fish. All 
 this countiy now swarms with beaver, and we had 
 reached a settlement. A large pile of branches and mud, 
 about the size of a hayrick, was made at the water's edo-e 
 and in the water. It was an old beaver-house, and I sat 
 down on the top, and heard the old man hold forth, 
 while we munched biscuits and smoked turn about. 
 Opposite to us was a second house, and at the end of 
 the lake, in a Hat meadow covered with rank green 
 grass a yard long, was the top of a third house, now 
 building. It was on an island in a creek, and could not 
 be reached without a boat. All round us, in the soft 
 turf of the banks, were beaver-roads : canals, a foot 
 wide, dug into the land ten or twenty yards, and ending 
 in a path cleared to the trees. The canal had fui" 
 nished nmd for the house, the path was the road for food 
 and timber, and food and timber were piled on the 
 house. The food is 'white wood' and birch, about a 
 couple of inches thick. The branches liad been neatly 
 nibbled into portable lengths, and they were piled on a 
 turf opposite to the house. The old branches had been 
 
138 
 
 AN AMERICAN TKAMl'. 
 
 neatly peeled, and the marks of the tools used — to wit 
 the teeth — were on every stick. Beaver-root — the root of 
 the yellow lily — was nibbled and left about in scraps. 
 Followed the shore, and wcnit to the forest to look at the 
 work there. A couple of birch-trees had been felled for 
 the bark ; one stump measured two feet in girth, and 
 not a scrap of the trunk or branches was left. The 
 other lay where it fell untouched, and it was a goodly 
 birch-tree. It had been f(3lled late in the fall, and the 
 frost had come on before they could move the prize home. 
 There were the tooth-marks and the peculiar chips of 
 these strange little carpenters. We left their work, 
 and w^ent off back to an upper lake where they had a 
 dam. It was made, like the liouse, of small branches 
 and nuid piled at the end of the lake, and piled in the 
 very shape of Plymouth breakwater — broad below, nar- 
 row above, with the water oozing slowly through it, so 
 that no stream moved it and no fall undermined the base. 
 Now, is this instinct or design ? Long ago a boy made 
 a dam in a similar position, in order to sail boats in a 
 pond. It was a wall made of turf, and when it was 
 pretty high the water cut a hole in the top, which en- 
 larged, till the wall-dam went oft' with the rush. A second 
 attempt failed also. After working all day, the first diffi- 
 culty was mastered by placing a plank on top of the 
 
 
KNtHNKKKIXd. 
 
 139 
 
 turf wall fur the vvfiter to How over ; but when the lieatl 
 of water gathered and began to fall, the foil dug out the 
 foundation, and tin; wliole fabric was swept away in a 
 moment. Engineers of experience lately failed to dam a 
 lake effectually, and so drowned a town. The beavers suc- 
 ceed ; their phin i.s the very best that could be devised ; 
 and the youngest beaver works on the old plan which 
 the young hunia,; animal does not inherit from his an- 
 cestors, but learns from them, or i)uzzles out f^r him- 
 self. But here is the dilference between men and 
 beasts : — Xo beaver can do anything beyond his own 
 trade, but a man may be jack-of-all-trades, if master of 
 uone. Meandering about amongst the woods, we came 
 to a place which these little engineers had flooded. \V'3 
 had to grope about for a passage, and linally cut down 
 a tree to get ov>ir the old river-course. 
 
 It was queer walking amongst long drowned gxass, 
 old stumi)s, fallen trees, branches, and scrul), with water 
 up to the knees, and dee]) holes hidden somewhere. Old 
 Davis found his way, ne\ertheless, and we scrand)led 
 through another thicket to a new beave^-house, Avhich 
 he knew to be inhabited. We danced U]»on the roof, 
 and shook it ; and out dashed the [)eople under water, 
 leaving the long train of bubbles which also marks the 
 bolt of an otter. Presently the wiive of the sunken 
 
uo 
 
 AN AMERICAN TRAMP. 
 
 navigator Avas seen nearing some long grass, and then 
 the grass itself waved as the hrute workctl along tlie 
 shore. Old Davis spied him move than 200 yards 
 away, making for another old house on tiui oi)po- 
 site side of the lake, but I never got sight of him. So 
 there we sat down, and smoked and prosed, in a damp, 
 warm, foggy, gray, still atmosphere, with steaming lead- 
 coloured water before us, and a dank, drii)ping, half- 
 drowned forest of scrubl)y birch and pine all around. 
 The only cheery creatures about the place were a family 
 of chattering jays, who seomed inclinetl to taste the 
 flesh on which gallynippers were feasting royally. The 
 house is so bidlt tha^ th(i door is under water. If it 
 were not deej) enough, they would be frozen in ; there- 
 fore thev make the dam after the house is made, so that 
 the ice may form a roof over the hall-door. If the walls 
 of the house were thin, the frost w^ould freeze up the 
 water-way ; therefore they pile up = ach a heap that the 
 frost cannot penetrate, and having prepared for winter, 
 they dive out and dig waterlily roots under the glass 
 roof of their winter garden. The inside of the house 
 has an anteroom for shaking wet jackets, and a bedroom 
 neatly plastered with nmd, with every projecting stick 
 nibbled off The bed is of bark, and dry as a bone. It 
 seems a foul murder to slay such wise brutes ; but ' they 
 
DEEU-YAUNS. 
 
 141 
 
 are very good, aiul tliu tail makes tirst-rate sou}*.' To 
 
 trap tlieiii, a heavy traj) is laid on the Ikjusl' in the 
 
 water, with a long ehain. AVlicn the creature is caught, 
 
 he springs into deep water, and the weight drowns him. 
 
 An easy way to shoot them is to spoil the dam, and 
 
 watch the place. As soon as the water begins to ebb, 
 
 the colony go off to mend the works, and tht; enemy can 
 
 take them unawares. Old Davis once spoilt a dam, and 
 
 went away. When he came back, he found a log hud in 
 
 the breach, and a forkeil stick, with the root down-sti-eam, 
 
 planted against the beam. ' You see, sir, the bayvcr 
 
 thought it was de wAter that pushed down the dam, and 
 
 he put the stick that way to stop the force of it.' I have 
 
 no doubt this is quite true, for many of the old fellow's 
 
 yarns stood the test of examination : houses, dams, canals, 
 
 roads, trees, beaver-meat, and deer-tracks came true. 
 
 It was harder to swallow his yarns about deer. He spoke 
 
 of killing five or six at a shot with single ball. But 
 
 here again others told the same tale ; and it is possible 
 
 that a gun six feet long, loaded with three or four fingers 
 
 of powder, may drive a bullet through five or six bodies 
 
 in a large herd crowded thickly together. The deer are 
 
 the reindeer, better grown. In summer, they migrate 
 
 northwards to the barrens : wide tracts of bare ground 
 
 strewn with pebbles, where scarce a tree gi-ows, and 
 
142 
 
 AN AMKIllCAN TRAMP 
 
 niosquitos are not abuiulant. In thu fall, they return 
 .southwards, crossing the isthmus at Vlacentia, and else- 
 where. When a fj^rnnd driv(f is oi|;ani/e(l, three lines of 
 nit'ii, armed \'ith sealing guns, are stationed inland, 
 and thu !ierd is startled near the shore. In running the 
 gauntlet they lose ^irst thciv heads and then their lives. 
 They get luiddled *:ogether in dense erowds, and the 
 sealers' guns commit sad liav(;c. It is a point of honour 
 to kill nothing that is not wanted, and to carry out every 
 sera[) of venison. Some Englishmen who killed deer 
 wantonly, and left the me'it in the forest, are still men- 
 tioned with strong disa[)prol)ation. Tlu; taint of carrion 
 drives deer from the ground, and to kill them in scores for 
 the mere love of slaughter wjis not a sportsmanlike act. 
 Saturday, August 20. — Drove back GO miles to St. 
 John's ; start G.20, stop 0.20, at half-way house. Another 
 driver came with us, and having once run a hare down 
 in winter on this road, he was wild when a poor little 
 hare appeared. He set off at full gallop, but the hare 
 left the road and vanished. The old woman at the 
 half-way house was very fat, and seemed to sjiend 
 most of her time in the old barrel, into which she had 
 crannned a cushion. AVhen she rose the barrel was apt 
 to stick to her, so she had removed an extra stave ; the 
 drivers made a great row, measuring the old lady with a 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
A UlTTERN-HUNT. 
 
 143 
 
 tii]>('. Got to Holyrood ut I, slop till 2.45. An o\d 
 Ibllow who liiul bi'fii out .seeking iuv iiiinenils liere [)ro- 
 (lured liis store ; lie liad s])orim(Mis of lead and ro|i])er- 
 oru, and ont; stone whieh lie said contained minute sjjeeks 
 of gold ; lie had heen employed hy the American com- 
 panies, and was getting gradually drunk by constant 
 dram.s. A tall well-grown Newfoundlander ovcatook 
 us hero, and asked the old woman about a strange bird 
 which was sitting beside the road. She had no strange 
 bird she said. Then it mu.st l)e a wihl one, said the 
 new comer; 'it's sittin' dere und; v dc trees.' Away 
 went the whole lot immediately, miner, drivers, and 
 passenger.s, helter-skelter down the road — the big man, 
 with ids coat off, leading. Having reached ' de tree,' 
 he paused and pointed to a long-necked, browni.sh-yel- 
 low, shambling young bittern, sitting wdtli his head laid 
 back on his humpy shoulders, gazing out at the high 
 road. He had just walked out to see the world for the 
 first time. The ruthless coat was over him in a moment, 
 and the long sprawling green legs were speedily kicking 
 out of one end, while the sharp dagger-like beak and 
 the bright eyes peered savagely out from the Cfjllar of 
 the blue jacket. We carried him to Ilolyrood, and i)re- 
 sented him to the queen, who was frying eggs and bacon 
 in the kitchen. The poor debutant was very shy, and 
 
1 44 
 
 AN AMERICAN TUAMI'. 
 
 tri»'(l to hi(l(.' liimsclf iinywliciL' and everywlicrc, espe- 
 cially where lie ouj^'ht not to rrn Finally lie Wii3 packc*! 
 into a box, with a hanilkeirhiel' tied over his head to 
 keep him in, and by the time he got to the capital he 
 was a stifled corpse. 
 
 It appeared during dinner that weasels in New- 
 ioundland are i)eculiarly wise and vicious. A man 
 who was mowing in the neighbourhood found a nest of 
 young ones, and carried them off. The man and his 
 mate had a pail of milk for tlu-"r special benefit, and the 
 mate, who was wiser than his partner, noticed 'de ould 
 weasel come up to de ])ail and spit into it three times. 
 ' Ah,' said he, * you had better take de young ones and 
 put dem back where you found dem, or de ould one will 
 be sure to do us some hurt.' Well, de man took de 
 young weasels and put dem whar he found dem, and 
 dey went on wid dere work. When de ould one found 
 de young ones all right she came back to de pail, and 
 she never stopped till she overturned it, and split de 
 milk. You see she had spit into it, and she did not 
 want to hurt us since we had not hurt de young ones.' 
 
 Thereupon followed a w^liole cable of weasel yarns 
 of the same kind. Got to St, John's by dark, having 
 stopped at Topsail for another hour. It was a long 
 drive for a single mare, but she did it well and easily. 
 
CIFAPTEK VIII. 
 
 NKWK(jrNI)LANI), KTC. 
 
 Sinulaif 21.— After cliuivli diiiud witli a IVii'iul luid 
 fellow-passcnoer, who is jUso fi good sixjitsiiifin, and 
 with liim and a colonial magnate of like tastes walked 
 to a hill-top. Thick mist. 
 
 Uondin/ 22.— Air 58", water in the harl.our 50'\ air 
 near the hill-top 04^— Walked to Quidi Vidi over 
 the lulls. Thick mist, and a very heavy sea rolling in 
 against the cliffs. ]\[adc a sketch. Heat oj.pressive. 
 
 Tuesday 23.— Air 58°, St. John's irarl)our 50^ air 
 near the hill-to]) G4".— Walked to th(> top ol' a hill to 
 the westward beyond Quidi Vidi. Sprang some reiper, 
 and found a lot of Ijoys and girls gathering berries. 
 Made a sketch and some rubbings, and widked home 
 again. The stench of the fish-manure in the fields was 
 l)ortentous. I'eople hay-making busily. These hill- 
 tops are all ice-gronnd, but failed to disco\er striie, 
 though the rock is the same as on Signal-hill. In the 
 lower grounds found marks running up-hill in the old 
 
\A() 
 
 AN A.MKKHJAN TRAM I' 
 
 (linirtiuii, or ncaiiy. The result ot' all tliu oltscrvutioiis 
 points to large local glaciers passing seawards from the 
 watershed. 
 
 The fish-stages at Quidi Vidi are very good speci- 
 mens of their class, and exceedirigly pictures' [Ue. One 
 is perched beneath a stee]) hill of red sandstone, which 
 is hare enough to show the edge of every l»ed in it, hut 
 sufliciently clad with jdants to make it a decent respect- 
 ahle sea-cliff. The huilding is upon a low stage in the 
 (diff where the sea has broken the sandstone, and worn 
 the broken edges into strange clefts and dark iJTeen 
 hollows and humps. On this uneven base a scaffold of 
 rough firs makes an intricate ]'attern. Some few sticks 
 are ujjright, ■)ut the most of them lean, and have to hv 
 propped and stayed, bound togethei' and thrust aj^art, 
 and jammed against the broken red stone. On this 
 maze of poles of uneven length, a burnt-sit'iina network 
 of withered tir-branches is woven and l)ound, and on it 
 rest ])ilcs of lish and nets, old barrels, oars, sails, and 
 marine stores, piled in admirable confusion. At one end 
 of this edifice the fish -mansion is placed. It is of the 
 .same material, and nothing but a jihotograph could 
 ever convey any idea of the battered collectic^n (jf sticks 
 and boards and branches, which are nailed and woven into 
 the shape of a house. The fioor of it may be thirty feet 
 
A FLAKK. 
 
 U7 
 
 above the sea, and from it rickety stairs and ladders, 
 and stages of smaller dimensions, creep down to the 
 water. The last stage is in the sea, and is a rack of 
 [)ol<'s for men to climb out of the boats. Tlio particular 
 narrow cove in which this stage was bui't is open to 
 tlie Atlantic, and when a lieavy sea comes roHing in 
 amongst the broken sandstone reefs and points, it makes 
 a wondrous din and turmoil, and lights \i\) tlie picture 
 gloriously. Flakes of snow-vrliite foam settle in the dark 
 sea-green shadows, and fly up and over the liouse, to settle 
 upon tlie red sandstone and amongst the grass. With 
 sterns almost touching tlie rock, and bows fast moored 
 to heavy stones and rings, morticed into the rock out- 
 side, the shar]) fishing-boats struggle in the green seething 
 whirling water, which comes roaring in as if to tear the 
 boat to bits, and toss her into the fish-stage. Ihit Ifjiig 
 liractice has taught the men to moor their boats so that 
 no harm comes to them. They rush in and charge out 
 rock and plunge, like living things chained in a den. 
 Tlie figures are in keeping : wild-looking pretly Irish 
 girls clustered round a liandsome dark-liaired mother, 
 hang over the rail ; and a battered old Triton father 
 below ought to have webbod feet and a forked tail, if he 
 has not got them somewhere in his waterproof overalls. 
 They do not live in the stage, but they pass most of 
 
148 
 
 AN AMKIIICAN TKAMP. 
 
 their time about it in all the })ori'uiiies of the sea. All 
 this seen through a luminous haze, which veils every 
 near object and hides the hills, hut lets the hot f:'inli«;ht 
 fdter and flicker throuf^h so as to make tlie sea and 
 the rocks glitter and shine, with hright lights and bril- 
 liant colour, makes a very pretty object of this strange 
 maze of rotten poles and slimy l)oar(ls which is called a 
 flake in Xewfoundliind. The town of (^uidi Vidi is but 
 a larger Hake. It stands at the end of a long creek, into 
 which a small river brawls from a neighbouring lake. 
 Heavy rollers cannot get to the end ; they are broken 
 up to nuike rip])les before they get so far. The rivulet 
 ])urls quietly into a quiet still sea-pool over a beach (jf 
 bones and mud. The stages are over all. Carts and 
 carriages and i)edestrians move about on the beach under 
 a broad roof of fir-branches, slated with salt fish. The 
 pillars of the arcade are tall fir-trees, and they are painted 
 bright green and brown with lichens and slimy thmgs 
 whicii only grow in dark corners upon wet rotten wood 
 near the sea. Through the dim twilight of this long 
 arcade, the l)right sea and the boats and gear in the 
 pool seem to shine, and the sunlight leaks in through 
 the basket-work overhead to make sjiarks flicker upon 
 wet stones and fish-scales, and all the wet slimy oily 
 things that come raining down with the light through 
 
•MARINE ARCIIITECTL'RE. 
 
 U9 
 
 the stage. When tliis queer place is seen from the road, 
 it makes a picture unlike any that is to Le found in 
 Europe. The tangled confusion (.f lines ; the houses, 
 scaffolds, and stages ; poles, boxes, and boats; stones, sea, 
 and clilfs ;— all mingled and jumbled together in a New- 
 foundland fog, must be seen and smelt to be appreciated. 
 The city of 8t. John's is but a larger si)ecimen oi" 
 this peculiar style of marine architecture. Tn St. John's 
 East and West there were 30,47C people in 1857. They 
 live about a larger pool of the pattern of Quidi Vidi. 
 With some notabh^ exceptions, the houses are wood ; 
 the foot-pavement is a tioor of boards, and it is by no 
 means unusual to mount a house upon rollers, and 
 move it to some other street. The wliarfs stretch out 
 far into the sea, and hide the beach along the whole face 
 of the town. (See Frontispiece.) 
 
 Instead of small boats, the larger port is full of large 
 ships ; on the opposite side are the lai-ge flakes on which 
 tlie Labrador take is finally dried. These cover many 
 acres, and it is possible to walk for some miles under 
 and over the roof, which is tiled with cod-fish in good 
 years. Planted amongst these flakes are the S(!al-vats, 
 into which blub])er is tos.sed b. mult into oil by naturiu 
 chemistry; and from all tlicsc perfumeries a gale of 
 tangled sm.^Ils .swc-ps over n still sea to (ho fair citv r.f 
 
150 
 
 AX AMERICAN TRAMP. 
 
 St. John's. While waiuluring along this sea-shore, how 
 strange was the old familiar tinkle of a Spaniard's 
 'aiitar, and the swift ride back on the sound to the 
 orange-groves of Granada ! 
 
 Wcdacsdai) 24.— The steamer from Scothand in, but 
 sailing uncertain, so telegraphed and took the mail to 
 Halifax. Start 2.30 p.m., with a strong easterly breeze, 
 and a very heavy sea rolling in. The sea was breaking 
 heavily right across the narrows. The air was 60° in 
 the harbour, and fell to ^'6° on running out ; water 48^ ; 
 thick fog, cold and chilly. Thus, for a distance of about 
 GOO miles, the water is cold, and it carries a cold misty 
 climate wherever it goes. The cold stream was crossed 
 in the ' Kuropa,' and followed from Halifax to Cape Harri- 
 son. The warm stream was also crossed in the Atlantic, 
 and it was followed round the North Cape of Norway 
 some years ago. The vessel behaved well, and we 
 l)luiiged out into the haze, leaving Newfoundland in its 
 robe of perpetual mist, it is agreed by all tliat this 
 lias been the coldest sunmier on record ; it was agreed 
 by all Canadians and Englishmen that it was the hottest. 
 It really is a ])henomenon to find a country of this 
 size, in such a latitude, and settled tor so many years. 
 so completely unknown to lhf.se ^^]l0 live in it. An 
 Indian war was going on a few years ago. This year it 
 
 I 
 
BL'Ml' 
 
 151 
 
 is rumoured that a tribe of Indians have migrated from 
 the Labrador. A few of the fierce ohi redskins are be- 
 Heved to survive ; but no one knows anytliin<f certain 
 about the interior. It is far easier to travel in Icehmd 
 and Scandinavia. One or two men liave crossed on 
 foot or in boats, and they are wonderful men to the rest 
 of the people. The sea is familiar, the coast a danger, 
 and the land a myth. The old ' Avalon ' was scarcely 
 more mysterious Hum 'Avalon 'in misty Newfoundland. 
 
 Tharsday 25. — Air Ob'', water 05° — Hazy, and tliick, 
 lieavy rain, and nmggy. Off St. Pierre Mi(iuelen, nothing 
 worthy of note. 
 
 Friday 20— at 10 a.m.— Air 01", water 59°.— Off 
 Sydney, Cape Breton. Tlie difference in climate between 
 these two places is tlien due to the Arctic Curr(3nt. A 
 small stream only gets through I>elleisle,and it is mixed 
 with the warm water of tlie St. Lawrence. ( )lf St. John's 
 the water was 48° ; here it is 11° warmer. A tired water- 
 rail came on board and was caught. The fog still very 
 (hick, but the captain sighted the lighthouse and steamed 
 ahead. At last, liaving run as far as he dared, he W(>nt 
 slow. Presently, without luiy warning, the vessel ran on a 
 rock, and bumped heavily tlirec or four times. The 
 engines were lifted three or four inehes. TIic captain 
 sliouted ' P)ack hor!' The mate, a Frenchman. ^]'f>uted 
 
152 
 
 AN AMERICAN TRAMP. 
 
 that if he went ahead she woiikl go over, so the captaiu 
 shouted ' Go ahead full speed ! ' and we went ahead and 
 got off without 'huiuige. We were past the harbour, and 
 close to some coal-pits, where the people heard the steam 
 blowing off, but no one on board had a notion where we 
 were. The women on board behaved exceedingly well. 
 The boats were cast loose in a moment, and as the 
 weather was exceedin<dv line we were in no danger ; but 
 it was a very unpleasant feeling, and if there had been 
 any sea the steamer woidd have left her bones there. 
 Stopped the shi}), fished, and caught a whole lot of cod 
 and haddocks, which were very good for tea. 
 
 l^uturduy 17. — At G A.M., got into Sydney, and out of 
 the fog, which kindly lifted about daybreak. Coaled, 
 and sketched an Indian camp. The ' Delta* in the har- 
 bour. She had been to the West Indies, and two passen- 
 gers had died on board of yellow fever. Weather fine 
 and warm, with occasional showers on shore, thick haze 
 on the sea. Ran out into the fog, and lost sight of land. 
 The captain, being nervous after his bump, ran outside 
 Scateri so far, that by noon we did not know where we 
 liad got to ; so ran in for shore, sounding as we went. 
 Found laud in the morning, and made our course for 
 Halifax. 
 
 The beach at Sydnoy is strouctl with largo boulders 
 
A SMASH. 
 
 153 
 
 of granite and other hard rucks, like those of Labrador 
 I and Newfoundland. These are now broiiglit from Lab- 
 
 rador in the coast-ice every winter. Ice formed nbout 
 I'rince Edward's Island is easily known 1)y its red colour, 
 due to he nmd which it picks up along that shore. My 
 informant, a clever engineer employed about the coal- 
 works, has seen boulders in the bay-ice, and thinks that 
 they are frozen in along shore and Hoated off by the 
 tides. Amongst these are coarse conglomerates and 
 striped gneiss ; the latter like Lawrentian rocks, the for- 
 mer like Newfoundland rocks. A very short time ago 
 this ice demolished a very strong wharf. It was made 
 of pine logs nine inches through at the small end, planked 
 outside, strongly bolted, and filled in with large stones. 
 ' Clumps of ice weighing tons and tons,' were hurled 
 against this structure by the waves, and it was smashed 
 and demolished : 80 feet of it went in a single tide dur- 
 ing the stonn. This is the work of ordinary shore-ice, and 
 the sandstone rocks at the water-level record it. 
 
 28^7i. — At sea all day in a mist. - 
 
 29^7i.— At six A.M. made Halifax. The captain, 
 who is one of the best officers in this hard service — a 
 Kidlant little man, decorated with a great gold watch 
 f'>r saving n ship in the Gulf Stream— nearly fainted 
 irnin sheer exhaustion and want of sleep when he got to 
 
154 
 
 AN AMKItlCAN TRAMP. 
 
 I 
 
 land. The navigation of tlii.s misty gulf and the neigh- 
 bouring wintry coa.st is no child's play for those on 
 whom the responsibility rests. Jt is nnich to the credit 
 of all concerned that no serious accident has happened 
 to this line oi steamers during twenty years, though 
 other lines have suffered many heavy losses. Landed, 
 and : '<^1)^ 'ttevs and breakfast. Returned to the 
 ' Osprcy" .ifft'j ■•ailing on friends. At(! some biscuits, and 
 at 3.30 sla.tetl l>' nil to Truro. The watershed along this 
 route is less than 200 feet high. Tlu; land at the head 
 of the Bay of Fundy is a deep red soil, exactly like the 
 mud in the bay, and near the river it is terraced. It is 
 well cultivated, and the villages and farm-houses look 
 \ery nourishing. The f(jrest contains birch, pine, spruce ; 
 and the prevailing wind is 8.W. In some cuttings the 
 mud is fiUl oi' large stones, and in other places are beds 
 of gravel water-worn. Ther. about 80". The sun very 
 hot and tli(; weather very oppressive after the cohl of the 
 sunnner in the north. A large t>arty of })leasure-seekers 
 slept at the same hotel, bound in various directions. 
 
 Tuesday 30. — Walked out in the morning. The 
 land is Hat and well cultivated. Indian corn is in the 
 gardens, liidges of water-\\'orn stones rise up amongst 
 the soil ; these pebbU-s include gTanit(\ slate, and other 
 rocks. Ther. To", siui (Uit, haze in the monnn'^. Thus, 
 
NOVA 8C0TIA, 
 
 15; 
 
 ;> 
 
 directly the cold water is left, the climate and vegeta- 
 tion change. Start at 10 in a queer-loukin^f antedilu- 
 vian stage that looked like an insane Lord ^layor's 
 roach. ^let some soldiers and their wives who were on 
 hoard the 'Osjjrey,' and a Newfoundland lady; the 
 former going to London in Canada, the latter going my 
 way in my stage. Observed willow, poplar, and apple 
 trees nourishing. I'assed over a salmon river which runs 
 into the Bay of Fundy. Low hills to the north. The 
 most of the soil is red, like mud in the ■ v) hut large 
 stones, blocks of granite, and other hai- roi abound. 
 At Londtmdorry j)assed a rocky nice li* !.. i\ or. Thence 
 the road rises ; the rock red sandstoiK', dip E. Here is a 
 mine of brown hematite. In some -v .aniens the ore 
 hangs in stalactites, as if it had been so fused as to drii>. 
 It is worked and snudted with charcoal on the sj)ot, and 
 is very valual)le. Clold-mines are worked near Halifax, 
 and are said to pay pretty well. The hills are very 
 pretty, clad with hardwood f<jrests, including yellow 
 birch, mapk, and l)eech, ash and oak. The lady had 
 never seen anything of the kind in her native Xew- 
 fuundland, and exclaimed, 'Well, they do not look like 
 M'ild trees in the woods nt all ; do they now? they look 
 as if they had been cultivated.' Ibit still on this road 
 sledges run till May. The watershed is 000 foet above 
 
156 
 
 AN AMKUICAN TRAMP. 
 
 tlie sea. Oats were ^'reen in the eleaiijigs at the top. 
 
 Tl 
 
 from til 
 
 'li 
 
 3h 
 
 fim 
 
 le view troin llie inn where we ehangeu was very nne. 
 The sea and Prinee Edward's Ishuid were in the distance ; 
 and the foreground was a wide slope of forest-land, w ith 
 a clearing here and there. The bright corn and flowers 
 growing amongst the black stumi)s, and charred trunks, 
 and zigzag fences, looked strangely foieign. The new 
 driver spoke Gaelic, and was called MacLellan. Away 
 towards Cape lireton are numerous (raelic settlements, 
 where no English is spoken. At the last stage we 
 picked up a couple of girls, and for the rest of the way 
 we sang songs. Got to Amherst about dark. The aurora 
 was flashing to the nortli, and lightning gleamed as if 
 some cruiser were blazing away at sea. At Andierst 
 found the town in excitement about a concert which 
 was going on. Got some food, lay on a bench for a few 
 hours, and then started at 11.30 in another strange 
 stage — this time alone. Tried to sleep, but the bumping 
 was fearful. The isthmus at the head of the r>ay of 
 Fundy is low marshy land well cultivated ; the peojtle 
 are Gaelic, old-country folk of all kinds, and negroes. 
 As the tide on one side is the highest in the world, and 
 on the other only six feet, this seems to be a dam made by 
 ocean-currents or by n rise of land. Its removal would 
 alter the climate of Nova Seotia and New ih'unswiek for 
 
NKW lUa'NSWICK. 
 
 107 
 
 tlic worst'. At diiwu a tiilm of Vfiy lar;^'t' iiii<l cxcot'd- 
 ingiy vicious inosqiiitos awokt- and attacked iiic ; mist 
 was lian<,Mii«^' about in patches, croepin;,' over the luud 
 flats of the JJay of Fuiidy. In the midst of j^neen 
 meadows the masts and hulks of new and old vessels 
 rose up })eside solitary trees and houses. The forests 
 are far from the :;ea now, and as every river is a deep 
 muddy drain V, tlu» ])eople build their vess<'ls as far u]> 
 as they possil)ly can, and launch them in these creeks, 
 (ilacial boulders abound on the hills, prevailing wind 
 S.W. according to trees. CJot to ^fonkton, a large 
 town on a big river of red mud, houses and .ships mixed 
 in the strangest manner. Got some breakfa.st in a cloud 
 of llics, and got into the train for St. John. 
 
 Distances. 
 Hiilifiix t(» Truro — rail 
 Truro to Amherst — coach 
 Amherst to Monkton, 9 a.m. — coach / 
 Monkton to St. John 
 
 Total 
 
 i 
 
 108 
 
 60 mile.si. 
 
 (Olio „ 
 
 27H » 
 
 Up to a height of 270 feet the stones along this road 
 are chiefly red sandstone. Tn mud near ^lonkton, and 
 low down everywhere are large blocks of granite. 1'hese 
 are foreigners, and probably came over the isthmus. 
 The rail has very few cuttings. In one of these red 
 
158 
 
 AN AMEIUCAN TUAMl' 
 
 s.'iudsloue ti) ([tears, uiul it .slciulmI to Itu «jjr<nuitl from 
 N.E. to S.W., luirallt'l to i\w course of the railway. 
 Farther on strhx) are very ('l^'arly seen in a valley 
 through which the line passes. The hills on each side 
 niaylje from 800 to lOOO l(!et high. !Morain(i stuff and 
 drift ahound ; the valley has teiTaced sides, the rocks 
 everywhere seem to l»e conglomerates and sandstones, 
 tlie drift granites and liard primitive rocks. Arrived at 
 St. Jolm's at 1.30 p.m. ; went to the Waverley II' it el and 
 dined. Found striie in the town pointing up into the 
 ghni whence I liad just come, direction N. 15'^ E. true. 
 So this hunt has proved successful thus far. 
 
(MlAPTKi: IX. 
 
 Nrw r-uuNswicK. 
 
 As shown nl)()vi' (]>. 107), linos worn l)y \co \\\)on rocks 
 iiwasli ill the Stniit.s oj' I'dlfisU' jioint from N.K. to 
 S.W., Jind coin('i(I(^ with Ww. run ol" the Arctic Current, 
 wliicli there enters tlie (iulf <>!' St. I.awrenee tlirou<'h u 
 cliannel 25U feet doii]), and 10 miles wide at the nar- 
 rowest place. A dc]tression of 2r)() feet about lat. 
 4(')", long. (14:", would sink the Shediae and St. John 
 Railway line, and make a sea-strait tMpial in depth 
 to that of Ik'lleish', which is only six degrees further 
 north. According to theory, the current wiiich is 
 shmited in thu Gulf of St. Lawrence would ilow on 
 south-west, through the 15ay of Fundy, if the way 
 were open; and would carry borgs as far .south as it 
 now does. According to the chart of 'Dangers in 
 the Atlantic,' heavy drift abounds about lat. 4«V', be- 
 twcou long. 45" and 5(»", and there it moves from N.K. 
 to8. W. At St. John, New I>runswick, the ice-sj.oor is 
 pcrl'eei'y fresh. The grooves are as sharp as mouldings 
 
ICO 
 
 AN AMEIUCAN TUAMr. 
 
 newly cliisclKMl on u ])illar liy a sculj)l(>i', and tlio direc- 
 tioii is from N. 2.")" E. to S. 25" W. at liic Suspension 
 IJridge. There is no ap})ari'nl souree ibr a local glacier ; 
 the great jjolar glacier ought to have moved iVom nortli 
 to south ; near the sanui latitude in Nova Scotia, ice 
 moved ovi;r the hills from N.W, to S.E,, as shown above 
 (|>. 40). The only known engine left to account for these 
 various marks is the current which was seen at work on 
 'the Labrador.' Thermometer about 7.V' most of the 
 day. So went to bed considerably tired with heat and 
 .lust and want of sleep. 
 
 Thursilaii, Scpf. I. — The next ste]) in spooring sys- 
 tematically was to cross the icc-tiack near the same 
 latitude, and seek it on the highest grounds. The chum, 
 wlm was left lana-nting at Euston S(piare on the '.Kb of 
 .Inly, \»a.s rejoicing in a telegra])h at Ei'ederictoii ; sot(» 
 Fredericton ' 1 had to go,' as the Yankee ]ih)'ase is. 
 
 The day was very line and bright, the tem])eniturt' 
 about bS". The steamer was neat and clean, and last. 
 and the contrast in travelling very marked and very 
 pleasant. Having scramlded uj) several ladders through 
 various well-found cabins, 1 got to the highest deck and 
 foremost ]»lace; looked out for a shady coiner, where 
 th' iole«t wind wimldblow the strongest, lit a pi|'e, pulled 
 out a telescope, ami i»ri'pared tet enjoy myself on the 
 
HIVKH .ST. .JOHN, N.B. 
 
 (ii 
 
 riviT .St. Joliii like a civilised traveller, for 
 
 MIICC Ml il 
 
 UilV, 
 
 The river aiid the eoiintrv alxoit it are exroediii'Mv 
 like tlic Christiania Fjord in Norway ; the hills an- not 
 so hi,L;ii, hul they arc of the same fi^Muc, a!id ( lolhed 
 ill the same dress. The strata are nearly vertical. The 
 whole (M.uiitry is glaciated and terraced. Tl 
 chain of l.raneliinfT brackidi lak.s, in which a tidc(.f Idrty 
 feet ehhs and Hows. The area of this Ip.rd is enor 
 antl the ]tas,«a.t,^e thron,L,di which the water enters is nar- 
 
 le river IS a 
 
 nion«. 
 
 rouer than the Menai Strait. Tl 
 
 ic neck of this |)i< 
 
 iK.ttle can only he passed ill safety when t he .sea-level 
 outside nearlv coincides Avitli tli 
 
 e mean le\e| (if tll< 
 
 So lonir lis the lide-h'Vel is 
 
 ill, or out at th( 
 
 hranchinir fjord within. 
 
 above or below tli<' mean, water fall- 
 
 narrow.s, and then makes a raj. id like that which falls 
 
 past Connnl Ferry, near IhuLstalfnaev Ca.stle. in I,,,ch 
 
 \A 
 
 ive, in Arnvle. The river-steai 
 
 ners tlierefore set (ait 
 
 bom a ])oint above Mhe falls.' The tidal 
 at Ficdericton, distant si.xtv mih 
 
 wave is I'elt 
 
 as th 
 
 e clOW 
 
 lies. 
 
 In loJIowinLf tin" 
 
 S .S( 
 
 a-way the steamer i)a.s.ses throiieh 
 
 <'i uaii 
 
 1' '" "i seiics of i.arallel ridges, wIk 
 
 t'ld trend is In. in \.l-:. ti 
 
 S.W 
 
 aiiil 
 
 ill 
 
 »se j^ene- 
 
 llese |(i\s- 
 
 lilb 
 
 [tas.sed, the banks are j»ietiires(|iie. lierrmrl 
 
 this barrier of hills, the bank 
 
 s are low, flat, rich, and 
 
 M 
 
l(;2 
 
 AN AMKUK'AN TKAMl' 
 
 uiiiiiU'i'i'stiii" 
 
 11 
 
 u' vwvv narrows, 
 
 and it wituls about 
 
 tlir()u,uli plains of dril't. Tlic sliapc of this country is 
 then a rcix'tilion of Ncwloundland and is'ova Scotia. 
 'Pile eastern coast is i^uanlnl by ramparts of I'oldcd 
 crumpled beds (»f stratified rocks, with long i^roi.vcs atid 
 ridecs running from X.K. to S.W. on the strike, and 
 with occusional passes crossing the folds at right angles. 
 Through one such breach the tide ebbs and Hows at St. 
 duhn's in Newfoundland; u second is at Halifax in Nova 
 Scotia ; a third is the neck of the bottle which hohls the 
 river St. John. I'he north-east and south-west grooves 
 hold large ojien bays in Newfoundland, the T.ay of Fundy, 
 and endless sea-lochs, lakes, and glens further south. 
 
 Having ukkU' out the sha[K' of the country so far, 
 and having (Exchanged ai»i»les, sketch-book.s, and other 
 civilities, with a gentleman in a buggy on deck, retired 
 t(. fraterni/e with an Indian, lie was a good sam])le 
 nf a wil<l man. and this is what I got out of him : — 
 
 A ri;.\\ KI.I.KK'.S I'lIoNKTiC V(U'AI".ri,Al!V 
 
 1 Nirklil 
 
 •-; Till'" 
 
 ;i. Sist 
 
 4. N now II 
 
 .'i. N.m 
 
 It. (iillll.-K-lll^llill 
 
 7. I.iii'i^aiH'k 
 
 ^ (inuiiiiiililsliiii 
 
 'I Ksi'niunli'i' 
 
 \u. Tlfii 
 
 ■-'(). .VlsllCllH 
 
 no. Txinnk 
 
 40. A'ifoinsk 
 
 ;■)•). .Vi'iiiiisk 
 
 .11. L'lliinkn 
 
 \'>. .V.'.vank.i 
 
 i:i //(..aiikd 
 
 14. .V.i.'iiiiko 
 
 I.'). .V'iiiaiiko 
 
 lid. Hiiiiliu lilthin Kll Hillttk Hi. Hi'iiK'ihlahiunuk'^ 
 
 70. /.'xi/itnc/,- (,'« hIiinU 1". /.ii(i/(iiii/.iiiiki> 
 
 NO. f(;/(iMn/rANliiii nil Hiimk 1><. iiijitintirhiiiliiii ^^^' muko 
 
 'tfl /•.■..■(( iikWi'.' (.'11 sliisk l!» K.x-nnitilir nc Htxukn 
 
 imi (;u<lii<'lii loon (;ii<l,'ink.skuai lit 
 
TOUGH WORDS. 
 
 103 
 
 T]u'S(3 immerals, except Tien, cannot be Ix^rrowod 
 from Euroi)eans, and thoy are on a .system winch is 
 capable of oxtonsion in any direction. It is as easy to 
 make 0000 as to make and 10— say 19. 
 
 ("!,)..<1 
 
 Oloetz 
 
 , A oliuckling guttural, 
 ) like gul]»iiig good 
 ( litjUor. 
 , A set of rattliuj^ dcu- 
 
 Bad . 
 
 Mat.ikoen. . . . 
 
 tals, lik 
 ' llu- ivory 
 
 (' sliu 
 
 
 
 <li>ors. 
 
 Give me 
 
 AfKKLKE .... 
 
 Wkeoi's . . 
 
 ^ffat. 
 
 » 
 
 >) .... 
 
 Nkmes.s . . 
 
 Fi.sh. 
 
 » 
 
 » .... 
 
 SyUIT . . 
 
 Firi'. 
 
 » 
 
 >t .... 
 
 (Jeooxckle 
 
 W.mmI. 
 
 >» 
 
 >i .... 
 
 Sam A(; IAN . 
 
 Water. 
 
 Sua . . 
 
 Oksucfiks. 
 
 
 
 Moou . 
 
 Nkhouk.setue.sochks. 
 
 
 
 Man . . 
 
 Skedai'. 
 
 
 
 Woman . 
 
 ElIiMT. 
 
 
 
 (iirl. . . 
 
 Sl'ILSQUA.SEASIU. 
 
 
 
 Expecting- to see more of the instructor, no more 
 words were learned ; but with thi.s to stait uj.on, a 
 tiavcller nee(l not starve amon^^st these Indian.'^. 
 
 It is evident I'rom this one shoi-t le.sson that this 
 lan;^uage is nnlike (laelic ;ind Eapp. Tlie Kscuarra or 
 lia.siiue has some jtoints of resemiiaiice in .sound and 
 
1(54 
 
 AN AMEUUAN THAMT 
 
 rliytlini, and tho^so black-liaircd dark-visaged mortals arc 
 not unlike some of tliu 15as([ut'S who live in tlie Tyrenees 
 over tlu! water. 
 
 Found my chum waiting' for me at Frederictoii. 
 
 Fri(hn/. Srjtf, 2. — Therniomctcr i'rS'. (Jray eloudy 
 weatlier. Paid my i(S])ects to two bears, one 1 leaver, a 
 coon, and some llyin^' and <,n'oiind scjuirrels, wlio live 
 lia]»|)i]y in a garden. The Iwars eat «'h<»k('ch<'rries wlien 
 they ean get them, and jirowl round trees dt -rihing 
 cireles v.'ith tlicir ncek-ehains. They are apt to howl 
 and groan luguhri(»usly ; they sit u)) on tlieir s1"rns and 
 heg like wcll-traine(l dogs, and make Iddcous ep iths to 
 attract notice and gain t lie sour fruit wiiicli is out ' T their 
 rMieli. '{'he licaver di'votcs ids talents to ni!»t)ling 
 tunnels througli Ids house, and he too sit" n and eats 
 carrots nut <if his clasidMl fore-jiaws .v u. gi;t\ ty iud 
 decorum worthy "•' -.i great enuiucer ; .liuI w'lv-n he has 
 settle(l any hit o\' n»'\v v, ••!■, ;d)out his tuh, he gi\x-s i' a 
 liidsiung flai» \v th )ii* .Tf-Ui! .ail, like a great fr(*emason 
 who taps tile fnundat inu-stone which he has been 
 summoned to lay in state. The coon looks like a fjolish 
 fox, and is an idiot. The .s(|uirrels are the frisky 
 matrons and dancing damscds ot the society, for tlie\ 
 frisk and dance in their cages all night, and sleep all day 
 in cotton wool. 
 
Sl'lilNi; HILL, FKKDElULTdN. 
 
 U3.I 
 
 AftLT breakfast drove up the river, mid 14) to a lull- 
 top .serutch-liuntin^r. The whol<' ul" the low nroimds 
 near the ri ,er are tiiicklv strewn with drift. Amongst 
 the stones were various kinds of greenstone and ^a'anite 
 in Mocks three feet thi'ou<;ii. jtolisiiid and grooved. 
 These were «jf the same size and ])attern us Idocks on 
 the shores to tlu; north. There v.'ere also lari.re masses of 
 con^domerale and ^reat euhieal i)loeks of sandstone as 
 l)i^' as a eotta,ua' ; one, by no means the lai'^^cst seen, 
 was more than ten feet S(iuar('. Aino!":st tliese were 
 lar<,'e r<junded boulders like tla; fixed rocks of Labrador: 
 (juartx, and ,^ianite with broken fiiiLiuifnts n[' otlirr loek 
 encloseil. It would be too much to assert that tlicse 
 stones came from L:d)rador and Newfoundland, but thev 
 may have been <arried thence. 
 
 On the top oi' the iiill the roek is thiulv coveieil 
 with ,'arth and laid baiv iu uewly-cieared lie'ds. 7"];e 
 ice-sjK)or was ]>lain at spots, and the ^I'ooves .dmcd N. 
 :').")" AV.. at a iiei^ht of about i'.HO feet almNc the sea 
 iu that directi(»n n«i hiulier iji'ound was vi>i' le. 
 
 Laid down on a map ihe line pas- > near bake 
 Temiscouata. distant more tiian 1 lo mil' as the crow 
 Hies. It leads direeth' into the j.ass tli.oU'di wliicj 
 
 I a 
 
 nk on I lie St. 
 
 iinlway will some day join the (hand 
 
 bawrenee. at lliviero du Loup; and besond the St 
 
IGC) 
 
 AN AMEUICAN TUAMT 
 
 Lawreiict', the liiw pussi-s clitse to the dci'j) ^tuovc 
 wiiicli liolds tlic Sagucnay. Spring Hill at Krcdericton 
 is composed of (.'((iitortcd Iteds of saiidstoii('-L;iit, ground 
 into tlic form of i-oclics inoutonnrcs. On tlic toj) nt-ar 
 tho stria', at al)out ^50<» feet iilxtvc the sea, nw large 
 boulders of liorsetootli-granite, pink and gray granite, 
 (piartz and other erystalline rocks, wliiidi are said to 
 (Mjcur /// .sill' amongst the Tohiipie Mountains. These 
 rise to a height of 2000 to 5000 feet, and an- distant 
 more thiin 1(»0 miles. If tlu'si- marks wen' madi- hy a 
 glacier it was a hig one, and it may have come out of 
 the Sagueuay groove. 
 
 Laid down on a map, togi-thrr with lines found at 
 St. Johns and Halifax, these high grnoves .seem rather 
 i<j imlicatc the windings u, a hroad ocean-current llow- 
 ing Mito the St. I.iiwreuce groosc, and bursting mit 
 through breaks in the I'dge of the tiough in a south- 
 easterly dire* t ion. In any ca.se, grooves in this district 
 cross each otiier at right angles, and on this iiill-top 
 small cross systems occur within a lew yards. 
 
 Having linisluMl tli^ hunt and s;u'ked tlie game — to 
 wit, a rubbing taken from thi' rock — we drove back and 
 launidied a I'irch-l'iirk < anoe on the river. A great 
 lanv years ago a trieial sent one of these primitive arks 
 
 n 
 
 to a Sidtrli I'oy luit he was never allowed to i-nter it. 
 
INIJIANS. 
 
 ItlT 
 
 Till' I)iun])art(>n youth iiou ciiiliarked tui'tlu' tirsl time, 
 iind witli iiiiittluT HI! ^killed hand to hrlp liim lidt very like 
 a cat in a \vasliiii:^-iuh. lint patii'iicc and pi'iscvrranrt' 
 li;ul iheii' ivward, and llir livt-r was crossed \iy clci^ant 
 swet^liiiii^' cnrvix, We run aground IVcMjucntly, and liad 
 tht! c'lani}) in our Ic^s niosl of ihr way, hut we ^ot to 
 the Indian vi]hi;4e at hist. Tlie im-n were working 
 siUiillv at various johs. Cunuu-laiihh'n'.;', carpcntrv, 
 and hasket-niakin^f, were tlieir cliiet' ein|doynients. The 
 women wt-re making l»retty (h'licatc nick-knacks of 
 shavings and emliroidery. Thi- work, and some of the 
 workwomen, were very ]>retty ; tlicy are l»roader, and 
 cast in a hirgei' mould than Lapits. Tried the vocabu- 
 lary, found it act, added a lew viis, and acquin-d ii 
 hasket which could not ]»ossil)ly travel without the jtro- 
 tection of a strong l)o.\. The eo>t was Xeckhishilling- 
 andgamachtshinpence, and it was left IkIuikI lor lack of 
 luggage to stow it in. 
 
 It was very aggravating to sou a girl stand upiight in 
 her canoe, and shoot st might over the wide river, whih; 
 we punted, splashed, [»anted, and whirled about in \ain 
 I'llorts to show off. In course of time the slow boat "rot 
 safe liack; it was lifted tenderly, carried up the bank, 
 and laid bottom upwards on a shelf, and then the rowers 
 K'Ued on the gras.s and watched the sunset. As the light 
 
108 
 
 AN A.MKHUAN TKAMl'. 
 
 faded away, tlie hills turned orange and darkened to 
 purple; a fleet of gray elouds, hard and sharp as real 
 ships, anehored tlieniselves in a cold yellow sky, and 
 black boats and ilark cano<'S shot over a stream of orange 
 and gold, leaving lr;iils of light behind theni. Tenijtted 
 by the stillness and twilight, a bevy of nyni[)hs com- 
 jdeted the Claude lantlscaj)e by bathing as nymphs used 
 to bathe. Wiien the iwilight and th(,'nymi»hs were gone, 
 the northern aurora broke out ol" the cold northern sky 
 like a iiery fountaiu, and the Great Bear watled through 
 the pale light of the ' merry dancers.' 
 
 This river, which neaily corresponds in latitude to 
 the Ciar(»nne in France, is obstructed bv ice durin«' live 
 ni(tnths of the year. The whole fjonl is sometimes 
 frozen, so thai sledges drive on it from the hills to St. 
 dohn. When the ice 'goes,' there is wild work on the 
 banks. 
 
 The following description by an eyewitness of the 
 breaking up of a river in Hudson's JJay, agrees with the 
 New Ihunswicker's account of their southern s])ring : — 
 ' On the l-lh of May, Hayes river, which had been 
 cdVOl'cd for nearly eight months with a coat of ice up- 
 W!irds of six feet thi''k, gave wa\ liefovethe Hoods occa- 
 sioned by tlu' Uielliug sliow ; anil iill the inmates of tin* 
 fort rushed out to the lianks upon hearing the news that 
 
THE UIVKU 'liOlN(;. 
 
 IG'J 
 
 the river was 'going.' On reaching the gate tlie sub- 
 Hnjity of the spectach.' that met our gaze can scarcely 
 be imagined. Tiie nobk* river, here nearly two miles 
 broad, was entirely covered with huge blocks and jagged 
 lumps of ice, rolling auil dashing against each other in 
 chaotic confusion, as the s^-elling floods heaved them up, 
 and swept them with irresistibh; force towards Hudson's 
 Bay. In one ])lace, where the masses were too closely 
 i)acked to admit of violent collision, thev "round a•^^inst 
 each other with a slow but poweiitd motion that curled 
 their hard edges up like paper, till the smaller lumps, 
 unable to bear the [)ressure, were giound to jiowder, and 
 
 tl 
 
 with a loud crash the rest hurried on to renew 
 stru{,'gle elsewhere ; wliile the ice above, whirling swiftly 
 round in the clear sjiace thus found, as if delighted at 
 its sudden release, hurried onwards. In another place, 
 where it was not so closely packed, a huge lum]) sud- 
 
 den 1 
 
 V urounc 
 
 led 
 
 on a s 
 
 hall 
 
 ow 
 
 uid ill a nuuuent the 
 
 rolling masses which were hurrying towards the sea with 
 the velocity of a cataract were preeipitatccl on it with a 
 noise like thunder, and the tremendous pressure from 
 altove, forcing block upon block w ith a hnid hissing n(»ise, 
 raised as if liy magic an i( y castle in (he aii', which ere 
 its pit\Umh"< luid pointed for a se. oud lo the skv, fell 
 
170 
 
 AX AMKKICA.^ TKAMr. 
 
 with .stunning' vioU'iicL' into tlic boiling' flood from whence 
 it rcse.'*^ 
 
 In tliis ilL'Scripticjn notliin^f is sjuM of the work done 
 by this icu-cnginu ; but al'tur tlu; Hood, ishinds in mid- 
 stream were covered to ii height of twenty feet witli 
 hn<fe masses of ice, forced up-liill by the stream, and tlie 
 banks were strewn tliiekly witli similar lit'.'qis. 
 
 Itiver-ice carries stones into Hudson's Jiay, and into 
 the r»ay of Fundy. T\ut Arctic Current eariics iloats 
 down tlie coa'-t of Labrador. I'L-rhaps tlie stone whicli tlie 
 river St. Jolm now (b"<^s out of its own elay banks was 
 first du,u' from a hill near tlie river Hayes ; and carried 
 thence through the Straits of Jielleisle, over New Jlruns- 
 wick, to the governor's garden at Fredcricton. 
 
 S(ituri/((i/, Si/)f. :'). — A great deal of information al)()ut 
 this colony may l)e gleaned fi-om two recent l)0oks. One 
 is a small handbook, written by M. Jl. J'erley, H. M. 
 Emigration Ollieer at St. .lohii, N. !>., and published by 
 Kdward Stanford, Charing Cross, London, in 1<S."7 ; the 
 other was written by tlie Hon. Arthur Cordon, the pre- 
 sent governor. F>oth are well ac([uainted with the 
 wikls ; ami the first (juotes Profes.sor .Johnston, the well- 
 known writer on agrieultural subjects, who was em- 
 
 * Evcryilav lAi'v in tlu- W'uodH of North Anu'iica, tic liy 
 Knluit iJallaiilvii.. Blackwood, 1848. P. 1(58. 
 
NKW IJUUNSWICK. 
 
 171 
 
 plovod l»y Govorninciit in ISH) to inspect and ri'port. 
 The ])i'(»r»'s.s()r was struck witli the roscniMiinct! to Scan- 
 dinavia, wliich is sullicicntly iciMuikaMc ; hut lui also 
 jMiiuts out tliat nianv parts o[ the interior arc adniiridily 
 litted f(tr hushamlry. Th(5 (uuntry is well wooded and 
 watered ; acce.ssil)h! liy great rivers and by good roads : 
 it is ra])idly iinjtroving ; and whi.-n railways jniii it to 
 Nova Scotia ainl Canada, many of tlitj evils ot winter 
 will ]»e overcome. At [»rcsent, each colony is slnit up 
 and isolateil by ice. The St. Lawrence is closeil in 
 winter; hut the sea-way is open at Halilax and St. 
 .Fohn, N. r>. There is nnu'h sea-t'oi' on tlif shores of 
 the IJav ot t'undv during the summer, tai- less a few 
 miles inland. 
 
 Temperature has ranged at — 
 
 Mnx. 
 
 .Mm 
 
 St. Jdliii, Hay (if Kumly, rnii.st. 
 UicliiliMctu, (.luir of St. Ijiiwrfiuc, coa.st 
 Kretlfnctoii. interior 
 
 88^ -Ih 
 
 t>() 
 !i6 
 
 -20 
 -•24 
 
 Kiiri;.'! 
 
 lo(; 
 I lo 
 11!) 
 
 Xine inches of dani]) Kiiglish snow, wlieu melted, ])ro- 
 duce one inch of water ; it takes .se\enteen in( lies of 
 cold dry New i'.runswick snow to produce tin; same 
 iinioiint. The climate heiv in the latilude of southern 
 France is excessive. While the mih is high, and warms 
 the land, the summer heats efpial those which ri|M'ii good 
 
IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
 / 
 
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 O 
 
 
 i^A 
 
 ^.r 
 
 1.0 
 
 I.I 
 
 ltt|28 
 
 ImUi- 
 
 li 
 
 M 
 1.8 
 
 
 1.25 
 
 1.4 
 
 III.6 
 
 
 ■• 6" — 
 
 
 ► 
 
 v] 
 
 <? 
 
 /i 
 
 ^;. 
 
 
 <r^ 
 
 /S^ 
 
 
 v 
 
 Photographic 
 
 Sciences 
 
 Corporation 
 
 23 WEST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 
 
 (716) 872-4503 
 
 

 
172 
 
 AN AMERICAN TRAMP. 
 
 claret; when the sun is low, the cold breath of *tne 
 Labrador,' which is always felt at sea, chills the laud, 
 covers it with a thick white pall, and seals the rivers. 
 But the Bay of Fundy acts like warm water in a hot- 
 house, by storing part of the summer's heat for winter 
 use. The water is not chilled by a northern current, as 
 water is in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and some of it 
 comes from the Gulf Stream. The effect of this climate on 
 forest vegetation is to produce flourishing pines, birches, 
 and beeches, but stunted oaks, — trees which, in Den- 
 mark, were associated with the stone, bronze, and iron 
 periods of ancient human art. Pines predominate in 
 New Brunswick now, and are associated with the cudest 
 human implements in Danish peat. The ancient climate 
 of the Danish stone period is therefore carried south to 
 latitudes in which reindeer lived in ancient France. It is 
 a healthy enjoyable climate — one to favour hunting and 
 fishing, and life in the open air. Natives and settlers, 
 governed, governor, and guests, civilians and soldiers, 
 savages and civilised, run wild and live in the woods 
 every year. 
 
 If the Arctic Current which chills Newfoundland 
 got through the isthmus, the climate here would suffer. 
 It is proved by a profusion of recent marine shells and 
 plants buried in level tracts, at many places in the 
 
BURNING WEEDS. 
 
 173 
 
 colony, that it was submerged ; but to what depth is not 
 ascertained. A very slight depression, sufficient to sink 
 the shells, would convert New Brunswick into an archi- 
 pelago of long rocky islands, and join the St. Lawrence 
 to the Bay of Fundy in the deep lake of Temiscouata, 
 whose upper end is 18 miles from the St. Lawrence, and 
 317 from St. John. The shells prove that the land was 
 an archipelago, and ice-marks indicate a glacial period, 
 like that of the present sea on the banks of Newfound- 
 land. 
 
 For statistics, solid information, and amusement, the 
 books above mentioned should be read. 
 
 Started at 9. Thermometer 65°. Barometer very 
 high, and weather delicious. With nothing to sketch, 
 and little to do, a good steamer to do it in, a good book, 
 and a good dinner, this is an idler's paradise. Watched 
 the first step in colonial farming, which consists in burn- 
 ing weeds enough to pay for the land, if the timber were 
 in England and the land here. Surely this * wilful 
 w^aste,' which makes ' woeful want,' according to pro- 
 verbial philosophy, might be avoided on the banks of a 
 river which leads to a great ship-building town. In 
 every direction were vast clouds of rolling smoke, each 
 the funeral-pall of a forest ; and near at hand the red 
 
174 
 
 AN AMEKICAN TRAMP. 
 
 flames could be seen and heard, as they roared and 
 crackled about their prc^y. 
 
 Arrived at St. John ; drove to the Suspension 
 Jh'idgo and watched the ebl) and flood contending in 
 the narrows. Tlie great broad whirling rapid gradually 
 slack(ined as the tide rose to meet it, and ships and 
 boats l)egan to creep under the bridge till the stream 
 turned and the rapid flowed rapidly in. The bridge is 
 70 feet al)0\'e high-water mark, 100 abjve low-water, 
 and GOO feet long ; the piers rest upon cliffs. 
 
 At this spot, if anywhere in the world, river-ice ought 
 to produce striatior. The whok' drainage of a wide 
 basin, and one of the strongest tides in the wjrld, here 
 works continually in one rock-groove, and in winter this 
 water-p(jwer is armeil with heavy ice. There are no 
 stritie about the water-line. The sides of the trench are 
 shattered cliffs, with fresh fractures at many parts. Up 
 to a height of 50 feet the limestone surface, where it 
 has been long exposed to the air, is weathered as usual, 
 and worn into pits and hollows. But on the top of 
 the cliff, at a spot where a Ijcd of drift-clay was removed 
 in making a foundation for one of the piers of the 
 bridge, the old surface of glacial denudation is perfectly 
 fresh. The grooves point N. 27" E., true. The force wliicli 
 produced the movement crossed the present run of the 
 
A COASTING STF-AMEIJ. 
 
 / i) 
 
 and 
 
 ti.l." in the broken trench below. It follows that the 
 narrows were lately hrr.ken throngli an old rid-e of 
 glaciated rock, and that hea\'y ice moved from N.E. to 
 S.W., 70 feet above the present high-water mark of the 
 river St. John. The direction coincides with that of 
 the Belleisle stream. If not the spoor of a polar current 
 this must l)e the si:»oor of a polar glacier. Xothing like 
 it is now produced at the sea-margins visited furthei- 
 north, the sea-bottoms are out of reach, so ample room is 
 left for a glacial controversy. 
 
 Snndaij 4— Eeturned to the bridge and watched 
 the tide, smoked and loafed about, went to church, and 
 smoked and loafed again, visited friends who had shown 
 hospitality to strangers, and finally went to bed. 
 
CHAPTEK X. 
 
 THE STATES. 
 
 Monday 6. — Embarked for the first time in a Yankee 
 steamer. The general outward semblance of the vessel 
 was that of the Xoah's Arks which deli' -lit English cliil- 
 dren ; and the contents were as numerous and various. 
 All the stewards and stewardesses were ' free coloured 
 citizens of the United States,' and they were of every 
 shade, from yellow ochre to Ijurnt-umber and ivory 
 black. They all spoke remarkably good English with 
 little accent, and the head oooks and commanders were 
 infinitely better dressed than some of the swell passen- 
 gers. Of these, a motley crew, all anxious for state- 
 rooms, crowded round a window where the captain dis- 
 pensed keys. Having procured a key through the kind- 
 ness of an American gentleman, we took possession. 
 The room was tlie very natiest clean white wooden box 
 into which a traveller ever was packed. The berths 
 were broad and high ; the beds of the very best ; the 
 sheets snowy white, and tucked in with consummate 
 art and neatness. 
 
MA INK Llgroi; r.AW 
 
 I I 
 
 Of Ihe,.. nc.at double box,., th,,,,. „v,o ,„.,vo Ihai, a 
 InmdaHl, m,,,.a along a saloon as while an.l d,.an as tlio 
 i«t of the sin-,,, and fi.tod with sofas, stovos, tables, 
 
 '''""■' "'"' ■■' I' ■ The engine-roon. positively shone 
 
 "'""l"'l".lishof oil and elbow-grease. The inside of 
 
 II"' ■'iHl. looked like a new ivory toy with el v dolls in 
 
 It. When i;.,.ding time came we walked .lown stairs 
 I'k-' sontlen.en, instea.l of ' (unddin,' ,lown tl„. eon,- 
 Panioti' like sailors. We got to the third stor,.v under 
 
 ""'"• "'"' '■' '' « '"'".^i^'i- .saloon with thi.ee tie,.s of lofty 
 
 berths curtained off at the sides. Jt was lighted wiii, 
 '»mp.s, and a well-found table wouhl have groaned 
 under the load, if it had not be,.n too well tnade to 
 creak, and too well bred to turn. Here was no watehi,,., 
 '"■■ tl'c beam overhead, no diving for .salt ,,ork and 
 b.scuit. M-e walked i,t with the n,.,.ight carriage of 
 l>w ,nen, atnl sat down to table like e.dightetied eiti/ens 
 A sable y.utth, like a Itubens' nigger, presents a s|,a,k- 
 l"V goblet of pure water with a little iceb,.,.„- in it and 
 
 ""•" "•- 'liHcd. AVe did not bolt our r„o,l, we .li 1 
 
 ' longuonient, hirgenient, et eooi 
 
 'I'icure dill Xo sti.on" 1 
 
 ho.se who care<l for tl 
 
 laeirsenient, (rs the French 
 iiju.jrs were sold on Imard bid 
 
 man who had lorgotten to b 
 
 icin ca|.|.ii.d a supply. ()|„, ^reutl, 
 
 rsi 
 
 ring a store. Iand<.il at tl 
 
 l'"rt 111 Maine, and returned trinniid 
 
 le 
 
 pliant uith a lat 
 
178 
 
 AN AMElilLAN TKAAJT. 
 
 {^'liiss llask. IJki! ji wcll-coiidiliuiit'd travuller, liu oH'civd 
 to sliare tlic coiilcuts witli liis tricnds and iu'i;4ld)0ius. 
 Some di;cliiR'(l ; otliui's aecoi»tL'd ; and having filled tlicii' 
 glasses, proceeded to sip the illegal ueetar. l)Ut as they 
 sipped, their mouths hegan to tell a tale of woe, and ere 
 long their tongues began to utter it aloud. ' The darned 
 old euss of a pothieary had sold tive dollars' worth ol' 
 doc(oi''s stuir for Hollands,' so ai'ter one more sip it 
 went ovcrlioard, followed hy exi)letives. 
 
 The most of the passengers drank iced water, and 
 were content, as thev might well he with such cool 
 s])arkling drink. Amongst our crew were a lot of block- 
 ade runners ; men who talked openly of their exploits. 
 One who looked very like an ill-dressed stage sailoi' 
 talked loudly, chewed, 'turned his (pi id,' 'hitched his 
 trousers,' and did the whole business to such perfection 
 that he seemed a sham. He was an Englishman, and it 
 is just possible that he was a (;rimp, or some other pre- 
 daceous fish in disguise. H<} was always asking ques- 
 tions, scraping accpiaintance, and getting up political and 
 other discussions. 
 
 ' Such a crowd as we were on Ijoard that ship, 1 
 never did see ; all old nian-o'-war's-men, darned if we 
 M'ouldn't have robbed a temple and eat the plunder.' So 
 said the sailor. 
 
i:A«Tr(.>HTi':its. 
 
 IT'.i 
 
 lurs. 
 heir 
 liey 
 [ eve 
 nietl 
 \i of 
 1. it 
 
 and 
 
 C'UOl 
 
 lock- 
 loits. 
 ailoi' 
 
 his 
 ctioii 
 nd it 
 
 pre- 
 |iies- 
 l and 
 
 ip, 1 
 f we 
 
 So 
 
 With sucli ([ueer comrades time i)assed merrily. The 
 (lay was very fine and calm, the sea likt:: o'hiss, and 
 stained with drirtin^;' CluH-wecd lu-re and there. The 
 (lulf Stream docs eddy into the mouth of the Ray of 
 Fundy occasionally as it appears. Tlie coast was in siglit 
 all dav. It was low and forest-clad, extremely lihi; the 
 Swedish coast of the flulf of liothnia. l')Oats loaded with 
 fish to the gunwale passed close to us, and in the distance, 
 eanoes under sail with an Indian crew, were made out 
 with the telescope. It was hard to believe that we were 
 near tlie latitude of Dayonne. At East])ort, in jMaine, 
 the steamer stopped and kept her time to a moment. 
 Landed, and doffed my cap to Uncle Sam, having planted 
 mv foot on his territories for the first time. 
 
 Went scratch-hunting with a clever Yankee engineer 
 first met with at Cape Breton. The rocks are sandstone 
 with veins of ironstone. The whole country is glaciated ; 
 the hills are about 200 feet high near the town, and from 
 the highest point no hill more than 50() feet high could 
 be seen in any direction. Striie were found on rocks in 
 the town, and near it; the direction iST. uo'' W. true. 
 Laid down on a map this line aims at the common water- 
 shed of a lot of rivers, and so favours the glacier theory, 
 but it also passes near a gap in Ihe liills which may 
 have been a sea-strait. 
 
180 
 
 AX AMKIMCAN TUAMl'. 
 
 Thtj hunt I'lidrd, \vt* tuiiicd to the place and peupli!. 
 It is a clean, ilourishing sea))oi't tdwn, with ea[itiirud 
 ljlockade-ruiiiiei'S,aiid l)atteied, rusty. sliips,wli() limit Hiieli 
 game anchored in tlie oiling. Cuuld not Iicdp. surmising 
 that the ' bloc'kade-runners' on hoard had heen to Halifax 
 to pick up a trail. Such tilings are dom; in hunting. 
 
 The number ot maimed men hi the streets savoured 
 of war. Many strong young chaps, short of limbs, were 
 walking or hopping aliout on crutches. With this ex- 
 ception there a})peared to be no marked feature in the 
 Yankee popuLition. All the names on the shops were 
 familiar ohl-country names, the faces were familiar faces, 
 the accent very like neighbouring Jiccents. If these 
 Eastporters were poured into Scotland or Ireland, or 
 Nova Scotia, ov New Brunswick, and W(dl stirred up 
 with the people, it would be as diilicult to separate the 
 mixtuic, as to get hops out of beer, or doctor's stuff out 
 of llolhinds. They do talk through their noses, and reckon 
 and guess more than other people, and as they chew so, 
 they spit continuously ; but these slight peculiarities 
 would have passed unnoticed if tliey liad not been dinned 
 into these ears. The maimed men attracted notice as u 
 new feature in society. 
 
 The steamer kept time to a moment, and set off for 
 Portland. The sunset was magnificent. The clouds, .sea, 
 
I'OlMI.ANI). 
 
 1S1 
 
 ami hills were dark |»nri>l(', iiiid a wcilm.' (if uraiige and 
 yuUnw lire l)la/<'(l Iwliiiid the liills. Wliilc striving' to 
 lind some rr)loiir briL,dil ciioiiifli to iniitato tlio darkest 
 li^lit in tlic sky, a voice licliiiid obsorvod : ' I saw that 
 hehind an icebor" this year.' 
 
 The answer was ready : ' So did I,' ' Where ?' 
 ' Fn tile Labrador.' ' Were yon tlier(» ?' ' Yes.' ' So 
 was i; ' You don't say so?' ' Yes, Sm.' 
 
 And so we I'raternised. The otjier Labradoi'ite was 
 a Bostonian, one of the yacht crew who liad ]»asstHl 
 Ca])e Harrison to ;4'o nortli. 'reni])ted by a lliiniing 
 bogus advertisement ol' all that was to 1)6 shot, and seen, 
 and "ot, and learned in the Labrador, thev started with 
 
 an a 
 
 rtist. in it fbre-and-al'ter, and rued the dav 
 
 Thev 
 
 shot nothing, got ntjthing, saw nothing woi'thy of not(» ; 
 fed ill, sle])t worse, and cursed their captain. They 
 were blocked in ice, battered by storm, tossed by waves, 
 forced to work the ship themselves, and generally they 
 had a ' very bad time in the Labrador.' 
 
 They were smart, active, good-looking fellows, in 
 shooting-coats of English cut. It jtroves onr connnon 
 origin and taciturnitv, that we have been nuK'ting at 
 table for the Last few days, and that neither su.spected 
 the other till the spark of fire from the western sky 
 loosed the English tongues, and set them wagging. 
 
1S2 
 
 AN A.MKIMCAN TKAMI' 
 
 Thursiliiij, Siji/. G. — The .suuiisL' was if [lossililc tiiu-r 
 than tlu3 sunset. Stinvd up by attentive niu^uei's witli 
 loud l)ells, wo r(ille(l oir our luxurious shelves al'ter a 
 few hours of rest ; we dressed eondortably, walked 
 through the dr,'iwin,L;-rooni, and ov.t on to the balcony of 
 our float iiiif house. There wiis nothinj^' lik(> a eommon 
 KuroiM'an ship about it. Inside, the unfortunates who 
 had not i'ouiul slielves for tlieinselves were ])erched on 
 chairs and sofas, blinking drearily at the fires. They 
 looketl like i)eo]»le watching fir the morning train nt ii 
 station, or London s])arrows wiitching I'or crunil)S in a 
 frost. Outside, sea and sky lilazed with tires brighter 
 than anv of human contrivance. We were gliding 
 swiftly over a calm sea of glass andfiiv, through a crowd 
 of coloured ships to a city of pur])le and gold. The lirst 
 step on the first foreign shore is never forgotten. Kaeli 
 following stride in a march over the world leaves a fainter 
 trace; but the first step in any new country leaves the 
 deepest footprint in each se])arate tramj). 
 
 The picture of Portland is hung up beside a picture of 
 Vigo, which, though painted long ago, is still fresh. In 
 one picture are crow^ded wharfs, a glassy sea, a bright sun, 
 mantillas, black eyes, donkeys, green fruit, old battered 
 picturesque houses, old trees, old churches, old dirty 
 delightful ])avements and rocks, creaking carts of ante- 
 
STUKKT l.OLU.MO'nVKS. 
 
 is;; 
 
 ililuviaii sluiiM', IdacU ))ri('sts witli shovfl luits, iHcviiirics, 
 tuns, cij,'ar.s, ami suiulrirs. In the most (j()iis[)i(iU)Us 
 ])lncc tlu!rii stands a postillion in yellow Icntlior ^aitf-rs, 
 light brcuks, aiul a sliort jacket, on the back of which a 
 red cloth llo\ver-]>ot, with enibroiilereil llowors, blooms 
 luxuriantly. Near him is a (.liligence, ati'i])h» two-storie(l 
 (Mbfico on ycdlow wlieols drawn by some ten or a do/en 
 midcs ; and the dili^'onco drags out another mental i)ano- 
 rania, whicli rolls out till it stretches ov^er Spain. The 
 Portland picture is a contrast. The sun and sky are as 
 hot and bright, but there is an end of the resc^mblance. 
 On the ])ior .stand a crowd who might b(> i'ritisho'.'s, 
 many are in fact Irish ; there is nothing strange about 
 them. A custom-house oOicer of the common domestic 
 breed, civil and polite, chalks the luggage ; it is handed to 
 a bus-man, who put it on th(» to]) of big bus, and oif we 
 drive into a new town, with new rectangular .streets, new 
 houses, churches, and trees, no hills, few rocks, no ])ictur- 
 esque slovenly taterdemalions. Ikit with everything 
 span new, nothing is new to the old-country traveller at 
 tirst. 
 
 In the nio.st conspicuous corner there stands a (jiie- 
 legged man, and he is a new feature, liapjtily. The 
 bus lumbers up the street, and bum])S ovei' new-laid 
 rails; they are no sv features too. The old horse-cari'i- 
 
1.S4 
 
 AX AMKRICAX THAMl'. 
 
 ii;_;e goes joliiiig I'li, tiiul meets tlit^ newest feature oi' all. 
 It i,- a live loeoiiiotive of larj.fe proportions "svitli a long 
 tail of car^. Puffing, I'oaring, screaming, rattling, and 
 ringing a thing like a small cathedral l)ell, the fiery 
 monslev toddles slowly np the middle fif the street 
 amongst the other passengers, ([nite tame and harmless. 
 
 As all Spanish mental pictures contain old slow 
 ])ictures(|ue things like those which were setai at Vigo^ 
 so tame locomotives walk'iug abait streets amongst new 
 houses, maiiued men, and new rapid unpicturesque 
 nourishing people and things, characterise new mental 
 pictures of yanki".-(looledom painted in 1SG4. 
 
 Tlie hus landed the human freight at a new hotel, 
 and the l)us-nian denifindod a certain niunher of cents. 
 The Ih'itishers hiid no paper cents, but they had some 
 silver coin, and the driver kindly proposed to take his 
 fare in silver. An old hand who had paid his way 
 through Austria, and read the jjapers, was not to be done 
 in this fashion ; but the driver Avould give no c^iange, and 
 the clerk of the hotel was in bed. A fellow passenger, 
 scandalized at this " sticking," paid the fare, and could 
 hardly be persuaded to accept repayment. The old 
 virtue of hospitality has not become extinct in the new 
 land. To avoid this l)other, changed some English gold 
 and got 118G cents for 20 shillirgs. At this rate a 
 
J'Ui'''I..\){ l'OMT|(\r, KCOXdMV. 
 
 18; 
 
 .lollar is worth les. than Uvn slnllii.g,, un.I tlie ivs,;lt is 
 lii-lily a<Ivaiitag(^()us to t]io om-iiois of Ki^lis]! -old. ' It 
 1.-^ ail ill wind that hlows nobody good,' and Kn-li.sh 
 tra^cllers profit liy the wai, it no other class do. Prices 
 have not risen in i.roj„u.ti,,„ to rlie fall of paper ; hotel- 
 hills and railway-fares are paid in paper, and a man lives 
 at the l,est hotels for seven or ei-ht shillings a day. 
 
 Having settled these pivliniinaries, went in search of 
 something old, and found it. Close to the landing-place 
 a likely rock was marked down, and on closer ins])ec- 
 tioiithe ice-spoor was found upon it. TIh" old surface 
 liad been newly exp.ised in making a quarry, or in digging 
 the foundation of a new house. Ab.n'e it, wherc it 
 passed undei'ground, was a laver of rolled gravel aii.l 
 gray sandy clay, stratified and water-washed. Lai-ge 
 blocks of stone were scattered abou^ whicli had been 
 moved from the gravel ; nearly all of these were finely 
 I'-li^hed, and striated along the longest axis. These in- 
 c'luded granite, dark limestone, and many other hard 
 rocks. 
 
 The direction of movement at the spots examined, 
 was from X. 14" W., and X. 28° W. The AVhite 
 >rountains bear X. 57° W., distant UU miles. The 
 striated surface is fine enough to make good rubbings 
 ^vith paper and heel-l)all. The rock is a crystalline lime- 
 
J 80 
 
 AN AMKIMCAN 'IKAMl'. 
 
 stone in beds nearly vertical. According to Danfi's 
 map, tlie age is unknown ; according to Pro'^bssor 
 Rogers of Boston, and Keith Johnston's atlas, the 
 rocks are 'nietaniorphic,' somewhere about the Lower 
 Devonian, No fossils were foimd. 
 
 Having prospered thus far, walked u]i town to se(; 
 the sha]ie of the country and tlie lie of the land, and 
 fell in with some Irishmen who were diu^ing drains. 
 Tliey had never found any shells amongst the sand, not 
 they; did my honour think there was any gold in it? 
 No, there was nothing but greenbacks in this country ; 
 and then it appeared that cotton garments had risen il' 
 hotel-l)ills had not. After a word about C^alway and 
 Connemara, and a phrase or two in Irish, we blessed 
 each other and parted. Walked on through streets 
 planted, like some European towns, with elm, plane, asli, 
 and other trees, and found out the highest i^oint in the 
 neighbourhood. It is about 250 feet above the sea, 
 and a favourite promenade, to judge by walks and 
 benches. Here was another gang of Celts, who were 
 making a road of rolled stones du<4 i'rom banlvs on 
 the hill-top. They had never found any shells either, 
 but they too had found war prices unpleasant. 
 
 Phrenology will never teach where the shoe pinches. 
 It is hopeless to go t(» the heads of departments, to 
 
TAXED COTTON. 
 
 IS' 
 
 learn jjiactical, popular, political econoiiiy. The people 
 who suft'er most know most of the ills of the repiil)lic 
 which stands upon the wills of the peo])le ; so here it 
 appeared that her new fightino-boots pinched Miss 
 Columbia. Wages are paid in paper ; wages have not 
 risen very much, but pa})er has fallen desperately. 
 Ilonuj ])roduce has not risen much in nominal dollar- 
 value ; lb(td is cheap ; but wicked obstinate Ibreign foes 
 of the republic, and home shoddy traitors in AVall 
 Street, will not yive gold for greenljacks without a 
 ruinous premium. Because of iho war, the tbreign 
 nianufiicturer cannot get cotton chea]), and must raise; 
 the price of his cotton goods ; he will have dear gold 
 I'or his dear goods ; and they are taxed into the bargain, 
 to pay for the war. The American carrier and merchant 
 nmst have profit to pay for Irish or ( Jerman substitutes, 
 if drafted for the wcir. Celts used to run naked in the 
 days of Queen Bess, if all tales be true ; ItVit here they 
 wear cotton shirts, and navvies' striped smock-frocks, 
 socks, and other such cotton gear. Because of the 
 war, the Irishman (here synonymous with Ldxjurer) 
 has to pay cotton-famine, taxed, import, retail jjrices, 
 and pays dear for decency when green! )ack wages are 
 converted into muscular force. Moreover, he is liable 
 to the draft, and may be dragged off handcuffed to 
 
18H 
 
 AN AMKHKJAN TRAMP. 
 
 fl^nlit for eiiKURdpatioii, against tlie repeal of the Union, 
 and in figlitin'f lie may eliance to l)e maimed or am- 
 piitated. Tf the Celtic feet be so pinched, they will 
 kick some day, unless their nature is changed in the 
 New "World. 
 
 Though distant 90 miles. Mount Washington was 
 clearly seen from the hill above Portland. The chief 
 cluster of hills on the horizon was very like Ben 
 Lomond, as it appears through a ga]) near Dumbarton, in 
 steaming up the Clyde. To the right of the pyramidal 
 White Mountains was the Atlantic slope of the State of 
 Maine : 55 miles from the sea it is only 650 feet high. 
 To the left was ]\Iaine, with more New Hampshire hills 
 in the distance. The landscape seen from Portland 
 is a flat roiling base line, with several blue pyramids 
 planted upon the wedge-shaped block which makes the 
 Atlantic slope of America. 
 
 A 
 
 A 
 
 M 
 
 The foreground beyond the harbour is a rich cultivated 
 farming countrv, dotted with houses and trees, and ending 
 in woods. The whole is very like some parts of England : 
 the Vale of Chester, views in Staffordshire, and such-like, 
 
' HACCV IS III/..' 
 
 180 
 
 where the main features are ricli plains and isuhited eonieal 
 hills. J*ortland, about lat. 43° 4i)', is oi)i)osite to Corunna, 
 and in the latitude' of ^Marseilles. Cllaeial strite are per- 
 fectly fresh ; they do not aim at the lii<;li hills, but 29^ 
 and 43^ to the right or north of them. They do not 
 aim westwards at the Alleglianies, or up-stream into 
 river-valleys ; they aim at a distant lake in a gap in tlie 
 ridge of mountains which leads to Quebec and the Gulf 
 of St. Lawrence. To get thence, land-ice must have 
 travelled along the Atlantic slope, slantandicularly 
 from the • to Tortland. If tliese be marks of a land- 
 glacier, the other side of the glen wliich held it was 
 al)out Vigo, in Spain, where the rocks have the form ol' 
 glaciation in the old mental picture painted more than 
 twenty years ago. If these l)e marks of icebergs, tools 
 fit to do the work are now moving in d('e[) water over 
 the sea-bottom between Corunna antl Portland. 
 
 The next stage was to get to the top of the conical 
 pile of hills on the long rolling horizon, and seek the 
 spoor tliere. 
 
 In returning to the hotel, replenished tlie cigar-case 
 and tobacco-box. A notion that baccy is cheap and 
 good in the States lias long i)revailed at home. It may 
 have been so in former times ; now, war has l)een made 
 on the Southern States, and baccy has been taxed. A 
 
liK) 
 
 Ai\ AMi:iaCAN THA.Ml'. 
 
 coiniiioii cigar costs ten cents, amateurs sometimes pay a 
 dollar. Twenty, thirty, and forty cents are commonly 
 paid. ' Bacey is riz,' like cotton and broadcloth, so Paddy 
 the labourer is not so well (jfl' as he \vas led to expect when 
 he became an enii^^rant. Dined well and set off for the 
 station where the pulling' monsters are stalled. Here 
 was something quite new, and really good ; to wit, the 
 American luggage system. The story of a portmanteau 
 is l)rie{ly told, and may here be told once for all. The 
 y)assenger goes to the oflice of Ins hotel, and tells the 
 clerk there that he means to go at such an hour by a 
 certain line. The clerk strikes a bell, and the first of a 
 row of nii'i'ers or Irish call-boys attends, lie, or a ^n^, 
 porter, brings ihe portmanteau to the hall, where it is 
 stacked with other luggage. At the hour specified a 
 bus ap[)ears ; a porter shouts ' All alioard for the 
 west,' and the travelh-r departs, while the luggage fol- 
 lows in a van. The owner has nothing to do with it ; 
 he pays the porter in his bill, unless he is generous and 
 chooses to give him six})ence (fifty cents) ; the transport 
 is in his bus fare. Arrived at the station, he takes a ticket, 
 if he has not already taken one at some office in the 
 town, and, ticket in hand, he ])resents himself at the 
 baggnge-oftico. On showing his ticket and pointing out 
 the goods, a porter hitches a brass ticket to each trunk 
 
TIIH LUGO ACE .SYSTEM. 
 
 10 
 
 \\ itli a leathern stiaj), and IuiikIs a Iti'ass duplicate to the 
 uwiier, wlio goes his way, j inkling lii.s brass for hiek 
 of silver coin. If he cliaiiees to turn his eyes to^vards 
 the higgage-vaii, the disiiiiiyed owner may see brittle 
 goods Hying through the air ; foi* Yankee porters play 
 catch-hall with light and heavy parcels, and are apt to 
 miss the catch. The Itest ]dan is never to look, and t(j 
 hope for the best. On approaching a large town, a man 
 generally .appears from somewhere in the train and walks 
 through the moving street, ])encil in hand, muttering 
 ' Luggage ' — ' Luggage.' The traveller holds up his hand 
 and the wandering chief (jf porters stops. ' A\'hat hotel ? " 
 'The best ; Mhicli is it V 'The Linnel House.' 'That will 
 do.' 'Chetpies.' ' Yes, /S'/V-liEE.' Thebrassishandedout and 
 i^xchauged foi' ])ai)e]', a slip with a note of the number. 
 Arrived, the travellei' gets into a bus, gets out at the 
 hotel, writes his name in a Ijig book, gets a key and 
 becomes a number, gi\'es his paper equivalent for brass 
 and l)oxes to the clerk, and, if so disposed, licpiors. 
 lie has nothing earthly to do with his luggage; when 
 he goes to his room he linds it there, or he may leave 
 il in the hall. He pays the transport in his hotel-bill. 
 
 AVith some slight variations this system ]n'evails all 
 over America, and works well. A broken desk with 
 til'ty sovereigns in it, and a portmanteau without a hasp, 
 
l!)2 
 
 AN AMERICAN TRAM I'. 
 
 tnivulk'd tugc'tlicr iudcpciKlt'iitly IVuiii Porllaiid, tlii'ougli 
 tlie .Status, and never paid a red cent as extra luj^gage 
 till they got l)aek to Liverpool. Then they paid dearly, 
 ])assed throngli all sorts oi" dangers, and wei'e very hard 
 t(j liiid in London. A largi; and eonspieuons l)undl(' ol' 
 rods and tent-poles, hooked and paid lor at Halifax, 
 clearly directed to London, and sent home withont the 
 uwner, was taken to tlu; Adelphi Hotel in Liverpool, and 
 there remained till a I'riend who knew it chanced to see 
 it in a corner, carried it oil', and took it home. There it 
 was found, hut after a long correspondence with the 
 carriers, who had forwarded one of two hiuulles, l)nt 
 who were ' unable to tind any trare of the other' which 
 had the same direction. Loose packages of like nature 
 travelled alone fnjni Chicago to New York, cost very 
 little, and were found waiting for the owner at the 
 proper olYice. 
 
 In the matter of steamboats and baggage-cheques, 
 Dame Britannia might learn from her big daughter, 
 Columbia ; though she lias not got used to wear butcher 
 boots, and pay taxes for the fun of lighting her right 
 hand against her left. 
 
 H" the Noah's ark coasting steamer " New England," 
 
 was unlike a European steamer, a 
 
 Yanl< 
 
 ;ee train is 
 
 e( 
 
 |U 
 
 allv strano-e at first. A long car is a house upon 
 
TIIK RAIL. 
 
 193 
 
 cicrjit wheels ; it is about fifty feet lung, ten wide, 
 luiil ciglit liigh. Tlu! seats are in pairs, on hotli sides of 
 a passage two and a liali' feet wide. There is generally 
 sitting room for fifty people. Stoves and a washing- 
 cabin, a filter and ieed-water, are in eornors. Tlie seats 
 are of many kinds, but all are comfortable. The com- 
 monest kind have a back, \\iiich is fixed to a T iron, 
 turning on a nail in the arm of the chair, so as to fit both 
 sides I 1 of the bencli. Four peojde can sit to- 
 gether, and sometimes a tablo lets down for playing at 
 cards or reading. In some cars the seats are made with 
 S irons, which turn on a pivot in the centre, so as to 
 lean at any angle ; and when the back retreats above, a 
 foot-stool advances and rises below. To all these 
 luxuries spittoons are added on some lines, and sorely 
 needed where they are not provided. 
 
 The eight wheels are disposed in fours, and the 
 frames on which they are fixed turn on pivots near the 
 ends of the car, so that the machnie turns easily. In 
 consequence of the great length, there is very little side- 
 long movement, but considerable jolting, especially near 
 the ends. In the centre the spring of the long beams 
 makes a long car like a see-saw. The doors are at the 
 ends, and open upon railed, roofed platforms, with side- 
 steps. Between the platforms of two carriages an open 
 
]\n 
 
 AN AMERICAN TKAMI' 
 
 space of a couple of feet leaves room for turning, and on 
 some lines a drawbridge spans this nairow gulf, wliikf a 
 valance of Itoards hangs outsider the wheels to ke(!p down 
 the dust. Aceoi'ding to theory, everybody ought lo have 
 a conifortahle seat, and 'passcaigers arc not allowed to 
 stand (jn the ])latform.' Practically, all who can squeeze; 
 into the space inside, hang on to the rails when the jdat- 
 fornisand steps outside are full, and as many as will sit 
 or stand or lie on the roof, do travel. On some of the 
 western lincis a hundred noisy men occupied each car in 
 a long train, and the writer spent most of his time in 
 America on railway ])latfornis. 
 
 The object of tlu; j'ouruey was to see the country. 
 Accordhigly a seat was chosen near the door, if one 
 could be got, or standing room was occupied outside the 
 door. With a small pocket aneroid in hand, the (deva- 
 tion was easily read ; a small note-book served for 
 journal and sketch-book. It was easy to see and smoke, 
 and enjoy the air ; possible to write and sketch, and the 
 guards took a lively interest in the proceedings, and 
 shared the baccy. At first there was a strong mesmeric 
 or other attraction which fastened the hands to the iron 
 rail ; at last, by force of habit, the platform came to be 
 the most agreeable walk in the street upon wdieels, and 
 the hands returned to their native pockets. 
 
l'ASSKN(iEI{H. 
 
 id:. 
 
 This railway system has many a(lvaiita<,'es, hut all 
 that is new is not ^aiu, A trihc ..f i(in(!rant booksellers 
 and fruit merehants wauvler uhout, and sometimes loose 
 parcels are carried off. Acc(.rdin,- to the newspapers, in 
 October l«(i4a crowd of New Voik rowdies (o(.k forcible 
 possession of a whole train, and robbed the passengers in 
 ojicn dayli.u'ht. AFeetinfr a return train at a station on f he 
 Hudson, they took it by storm, and returned by it, lob- 
 bin<,' tlieir new fellow-travellers as they went. The 
 authorities telegrapluul to New Y(»rk, but the rougliswero 
 too cut(3 for the police. They seized the guards, worked 
 the brakes, slowed the train some miles short of the 
 depot, leaped oft; and went lutme with the swa.L;-. 
 
 ff single men are occasionally murdered at leisure in 
 English carriages, it would be impossii)le for a hundred 
 roughs to scramble into each fortres.s, and each num nn'ght 
 defend his own Thermopyhe by pulling up the glass. 
 
 Whether this tale l)e true or not, travellers are 
 forced to consort with all who use the cars, rough and 
 smooth, and all persons are not equally fond of stud\ing 
 the masses. One who is not over nice must enjoy the 
 fun of a Yankee car. 
 
 Women have a car to themselves, and extra com- 
 forts. No man, unless he is accompanied by a lady, 
 may enter the sacred car-ess, and even ' brutes ' of hus- 
 
riK^.m ""'^ " 
 
 1!m; 
 
 AN AMKIJK'AN TI.'AMI'. 
 
 liaiwls cainidt sinftkc thoiv. KIsi'wIkm'c tlicic is a fVoodoiii 
 iiiid iii(l('|)('ii(lt'ii(i' about the iiroctctliuLfs wliidi lias its 
 clianii. Mvciyoiu' is at lilxM'ty to br('ai< liis iicrk, or be 
 It'll Iw'hiiid, il" he thinks fit Men j'uiiil* oil' ami on 
 u'liilc the cars an; niovin"^, and no "uard intcrtV-ros. 
 The (Mij^inc stops and goos on aj^ain witliont tlic concert 
 of station bells which proclaims the fact clscwlu.'i'c. It 
 docs not whistle, but it t(»lls the bi|^r bell hung round its 
 iicck, and roars a sfranLje variety of notes and tones. 
 There is no fence. Ft is coninion for cattle to use the 
 path, and when a cow is seen alunul, the engine per- 
 forms a whole gamut of howls and snorts and roars, 
 till the tei'riried cow is (h-iven away. If she docs not 
 go, there is a })ro'"ision on every engine for shunting 
 cows, and as Ste])henson said to tlie ^l.V. who suggested 
 the (>vent, it is very disagreeable for Mh(^ coo' to be 
 shunted. In the prairies a dead 'coo' was hvqu in a 
 ditch with licr lieels in tlie air, where she was laid 
 l)rostrate by the iron horse. If the cattle won't go, the 
 engineer don't care, and he goes on. 
 
 The first day's journey was a sample of a lot. 
 
 The railway crosses from Portland to ]\[ontreal, run- 
 ning 20o miles about K 55° W. To Gorham, 01 miles, 
 it. passes through a well-cultivated drift country; the 
 soil is yeUow clay, containing large boulders of sand- 
 
i»KiKr. 
 
 li»" 
 
 «toiU' juid liaid M/oif rorkM. Tlir inck-toinhlution 
 kIiows occiiHioniilly in cuttiiii^s and clsi-wliciv ; tlii" sur- 
 
 tiicu is <^liU'iaUMl, ami it iiicltulcs Itcdsol" 
 
 iMJcii-scliist and 
 
 Siindstoiiu. Tli(! prevailing; wind, shown l)y the inid 
 tion (.r trues, is S.W. At a lifinlil ..f (i:,:) \W{ i 
 
 ina- 
 
 U'ar 
 
 1; 
 
 .ll'LlC! 
 
 West Taris, about oO miles iVoin Portland, is ; 
 and (•ons[)icu(JUs deposit of rollinl stones about tl 
 t>r small turnips. These are in a rocky hollow near a 
 
 le size 
 
 le groove are stron^Iv 
 
 small Iturn, and the rov)ks in th 
 
 glaciated up to a hei-ht of 800 feet at least. Uould 
 
 terraces are equally conspicuous at 800 feet furt 
 
 er 
 
 ler on. 
 
 in tl 
 
 le same 
 
 holl( 
 
 niountain-lal 
 
 )w. The rock near a very pretty 
 ke is a oray granite. At lUyant's Tond, 
 
 ('.2 miles from Portland, 835 feet ab(jve tl 
 
 le sea. 
 
 11 
 
 le 
 
 shore of the hike is fine sand, but the t 
 
 errace above the 
 
 lake is made of stones like those whi(di f( 
 
 »rm sea-beaches 
 
 in Newfoundland. At Locke's ^lills. ()5 mil 
 
 beds of sliingle ami sand 
 
 like water- work. Here the high mount 
 
 es, 1100 feet, 
 are packed in flats, which look 
 
 l)roached, and the outline clian«- 
 from the shingle-dats, lil, 
 lauds jutting out into fiords 
 
 ams are aji- 
 
 i'S. They rise suddenly 
 
 e a bold coast with steep head- 
 
 jords or seadochs with rocky 
 islands. At West IJethel, To miles, 810 feet, are ter- 
 mces of gravel on the banks of .mnall rivulets. Near 
 <:iiead, 80 miles, 'JOO feet, the rail cuts through a bank 
 
198 
 
 AN AMEKICAN TUAMl' 
 
 of gravel and sand, 50 feet liigli at least. It is a tei- 
 raco above a considcr.'ilile ri\'er. Xoir it similar water- 
 drift is packed in sluipcs known as 'kanies' in Scot- 
 land, and 'osar' in Sweden, and these rest np(^n 
 glaciated rocks in hollow grooves. The river is the 
 Androscoggin, A\hich liei'e ll<jws due east. At other 
 spots in this neighl)ourhood, shingle and sand are packed 
 ahove coarse drift, which rests upon the glaciated rock. 
 
 At Shell (onrne, 8G miles, 900 feet, the shingle is 
 ]mcked in tliits h.'side the river. At Gorliam, 91 miles, 
 ahoiit 900 i'eet, the same arrangement recurs. 
 
 Here is sulHcient evidence of the action of water, 
 l)ut the glens and hollows were not made by rivers, be- 
 cause the rocks are glaciated. Ice in the form of glaciers 
 does not so ]tack loose stones ; but the fjords of New- 
 foundland, where sea-ice dril'ts, and waves act on the 
 beach, closely rcsemlde these elevated glens. 
 
 With note-book in hand, the aneroid in a waistcoat 
 pocket, a railway-map, and a fresh mental picture of 
 coast scenery in Newfoundland aujl Labrador, it was 
 easy to ])ut the sea in the glens of the White IMountains. 
 It was not easy to fill them with glaciers, for lack of 
 moraines. 
 
 This system of sjiooring at railway speed was pur- 
 sued throughout this tramp. After fixing directions of 
 
 
A RFX'RUIT. 
 
 VM) 
 
 glacial inoveiiioiit at Fredericton, St. John, Eastpoiiit, 
 and Portland, an evening's drive of 90 miles u]) to 
 the watershed of Eastern America taught more than a 
 week's plodding. 
 
 This being occiipatioix, fellow-travellers ailbrded 
 anuisement. The majority were ' like itlier folk.' They 
 got in and out, ate apples, and talked to each other, and 
 left no trace but baccy-juice when they went away ; but 
 iiniongst this crowd were soldiers on furlough, and recruits 
 gouig to be drilled. xVs the first of their class, they left 
 a permanent impression. The soldiers — oflicers and 
 men — were ruddy, healthy, strong, and active ; roughly 
 dressed, but fit for work of any kind. They seemed on 
 ^.-rnis of familiarity that would amaze (31d-Country 
 soldiers ; but all were quiet, sober, and well-behaved. 
 They smoked ; as one of them renuirked, ' 1 am used to 
 smoke, and I am going to do it ; ' and he did it too, aiul 
 spat into the l)argain ; but he meant no ill, and 
 offended no one. One recruit was a strong contrast. 
 He was ' tight,' as the saying is, and very talkative. He 
 wanted to make a third on a bench where two well- 
 dressed civilians were estaljlished, and tried to wedue 
 himself in ; the others (piietly resisted, so he sat on the 
 arm and swayed about whih' he held forth. ' 1 am a 
 Queen Victoria num,' he said, with a \ery strong down- 
 
200 
 
 AN AMERIC.VN TKAMP. 
 
 east twang. ' T am a rock— in the ground,' with a very 
 lugiihrions quaver at the end. ' I drove Jeff Davis in a 
 stage ; I reckon I'll give him liell ; 1 am a rock in the 
 ground. Tliat darned old cuss, Ahe Lincoln, can't 
 manage this war ; T reckon I'll give him hell too. I am 
 a rock— in the ground, I tell you. These rebs must he 
 shot down ; we Avon't have old Ahe for President. 
 Hurrah for IM'Clellan ! I am a rock in the ground.' 
 And then the 'rock,' who was about eighteen, and rathei- 
 snuill of his age, chunijied his quid, and spat with great 
 dignity and force to show his manhood. Steady on 
 his ])ins, but maundering in his talk, this self-styled 
 boulder wandered to and fro, and perched ni)on odd 
 places, till the train whirled up to Gorham. The 
 last audible words he said were, ' I am a rock— in the 
 ground.' 
 
 He was a sanq)le ol' the raw American toiniovrou, 
 and the text upon which the following letter was written 
 after a longer experience: — 
 
 One phase of this American war strikes a wanderer 
 \ery forcibly ; it is the change in the bearing of those 
 who are engaged in it. * It is not good for man to live 
 alone.' Young swells in the Old Country are sent to 
 school to take the conceit out of them, and they soon 
 find their level in the crowd ; but in this vast country 
 
A ROCK IN THE GROUND. 
 
 201 
 
 iiien live much cviono, and solitude works ill in tlieir 
 liuiuan nature. Those who have trod tlie bypatlis of 
 pAirope know the manners of the people ; tlie ways of a 
 German heer-liouse, of an'lrisli whisky-sho]>, of an Kng- 
 lisli country tap ; and here in tlie west, a country devoid 
 of graveyards, a German boor from some wide plain, a 
 Norseman from his solitary glen, a Swiss, an Italian 
 organ-grinder, a Comiemara man, a Scotch peasant, or an 
 English labourer, takes up his abode in a forest, or on a 
 prairie, becomes a farmer, and lives alone. With all his 
 native roughness he settles down whcire his nearest neigh- 
 hour is miles away, and he learns that he is a sovereign 
 personage, one of the sovereign people, owner and mon- 
 arch of all he surveys. S(j he rusts and rusticates for 
 some years, or for half his life ; and solus children grow u]>, 
 good stuff, but rusty blades. Once in a while this country 
 class travels. A son who has swarmed from the parent 
 hive sets out to visit his parents, or a parent to visit a 
 prosperous child. From Eome to Vienna, from INlilan 
 to Paris, from Hamburgh to Madrid, or from the Land's 
 End to John o' Groat's house, are distances scarcely e(pud 
 to many of these visits. With travellers of this class a 
 vagrant in the Western States nmsi associate, and so he 
 learns their ways. They are rough countiy kings, right 
 j^ood stuff, independent, well-fed, well-clad, prosperous, 
 
202 
 
 AN AMERICAN TRAMP 
 
 and good himioured ; they come of tlie class wlio in Nor- 
 way say 'tliou' to the king, but tliey ar(3 very rongh dia- 
 monds here. In the old country they were used to kick 
 up their heels, smoke, chew, and spit freely; they hav(^ 
 done the same more freely in their new-country home, and 
 when they are jammed together, 100 in or^e car, they con- 
 tinue their home practice and spit pools, liecruits are 
 not the most polished members of any society, and a 
 crowd of recruits sifted from such a class is a rongh lot. 
 In the State of Maine I fell in with a recruit. 1 le was a 
 lad of eighteen or theiiiabouts, and was rather 'tight.' He 
 spoke of ' Old Jeff Davis' and ' Abe,' and what ha would 
 say anil do to them. lie had once driven one in a stage, 
 and he would tell the ' darned old skunk' how to rule the 
 nation and conduct the war. Every fresh burst ended 
 with the same chorus, ' I am a rock — in the ground.' Il(> 
 was a very rough geological specimen, but he was on his 
 way to the mill. Some weeks later a vagrant friend 
 happened to meet the same youth, and found him sad 
 and sober ; i\\l the crow was taken out of the game 
 chicken ; he had found his level in the ranks, and his 
 stitf neck had learned to bow to authority ; a drum- 
 major, more despotic than Jeff Davis, had dethroned the 
 sovereign, and he was tamed. Later I was crammed inl(» 
 cars with soldiers returning from the front, and theii 
 
THE TAMING PROCESS. 
 
 203 
 
 bearing was different; the *rock in tlie ground' be- 
 comes a granite bouldtn- 1)ydint of liai'd knocks, and the 
 soldier gets hacked and chipjied into form. In a crowd 
 of recruits men struggh' for life and elbow-room ; the 
 weakest go to the wall, and the strongest only holds his 
 place by sitting sturdily in it ; but in a crowd of soldiers 
 it is not so. One upright bronzed man, with stripes on 
 his well-worn jacket, rose unasked to let two friends sit 
 together ; another rebuked a waiter for kee]ung an old 
 man w^aitinsj. In endless nameless wavs cami) manners 
 outshine the country manners of rank and tile, for the 
 civilian is civilised by discipline. 
 
 The way by which the change is wrought is plain as 
 the change itself. An army of autocrats coidd do little 
 in the iield, so Liberty has to whip her nauglity boys. 
 She does not flog them, but she finds wiiys to tame her 
 rebellious cubs. The schoolmaster in Mlihliipman Easij 
 had found out that one caning was worth two floggings, 
 and the most stubborn Yankee scholar has to yield when 
 hung up by his thmnbs for a good spell. This cluuige 
 of demeanour appears in all grades. ]\lany green olUccrs 
 are noisy roystering blades, full of very strange oaths, 
 and bearded to their full [tower. Some * Captains' and 
 Colonels' are like escaped counter-jumpers; i)ut the 
 old hands are generally quiet, silent, courteoMs men, 
 
204 
 
 AN AMERICAN TRAM I'. 
 
 with the open steady eye find fixed gaze which men earn 
 face to face with death. The majority are old hands 
 tliongh young in years ; tliey dress the part ill, but they 
 act it well, nevertheless ; their clothes may he thread- 
 bare, torn, and dirty, but they have the bearing of 
 gentlemen who are good sokliers. Surely this adversity 
 has done some good. The traditional, cute, nasal boast- 
 ing, drawling, impudent, long-haired, offensive being 
 portrayed by ^Irs. Trollope and iJickens, appeared last 
 night on the boards of a Yankee theatre ; but the real 
 man, if ho exists anywhere, has not yet crossed the 
 devious path of — Your obedient servant. 
 
 8t. Louis, Ali.ssouri, OcLobei'. 
 
CIIArXEll XI. 
 
 THE wiiitb: mountains. 
 
 Arrived at Gorliam, u vfliicle appeannl wliieli was 
 soindliiiig (piite new. ^'cry few people in llie Okl 
 Countiy seem to have lieard of the White Monntains; 
 Iiiit nevertheless Gorhani is the landing-place of ii large 
 crowd of tourists. A niiip of routes to the AVhite 
 ^fountains is like a lattice-window of r.ulroads, laid 
 upon the Yankee side of the frontier, between the sea 
 and the St. Lawrence. It comes to a sudden end 
 in the British Possessions ; for the Grand Trunk is 
 the only main line north of ;Maine : it looks like 
 the handle of the gridiron which reaches from Quebec 
 to Xew York. But the New York corner is joined 
 on to a larger lattice-window, which opens America 
 lietween the sea and the jNIississippi. The class who 
 in England would visit 'the lakes,' here visit the AVhite 
 Mountains and similar resorts ; and for their conveni- 
 ence great hotels grow up in the wilds, roads scale 
 mountains many thousand feet high, and stages are pro- 
 vided to fit the traffic. The new vehicle was a ' stage.' 
 
200 
 
 AN AMEIIICAN TRAMP. 
 
 It was yellow, with openings like those in the (Queen's 
 state-coach, hung with curtains to koej) out the rain and 
 let in the vi(!\v. It Imng n\Hm very large C-springs, with 
 long leather straps and largi; l)uckles, and generally it 
 looked like the thing which a coiich used to l)e in England. 
 It was driven from the hox, and drawn Ijy three pair of 
 ])rancing, h)ng-tailed, good-looking gray horses. As {lie 
 train (h'ove u]), the di'iver ))erfornied a kind of circus 
 evolution round the Gorhani Hotel, and he afterwards 
 explained that his horses would stand anything hut 
 ' Tndjuns.' ' When they scream and smoke, my horses will 
 not stand still, 1 reckon.' I had seen no Indians in this 
 part of America, hut on c(jnsideration it seemed that 
 Jehu meant engines, and his inanceuvrcs were explained. 
 Mounted on the top of the stage, with a falling twilight 
 rapidly settling down, we drove into the gden which 
 leads westward to the Glen House. The driver managed 
 his team athnirahly ; they stepped out well, and at first it 
 was pleasant going. The road was good, and the first plank 
 bridge, over which we rattled merrily, was sound, though 
 it had no parapet or hand-rail. But as the night fell the 
 road became abominable. By force of j"olting and C-springs 
 we were thrown half a foot into the air, and droi)ped 
 down again with grievous bumps. Having travelled 
 much in many lands, I never was so jolted anywhere. 
 
A YANKEE STAGE. 
 
 2U7 
 
 It furtlier a])pL'aiV(l that some of tlu- plank Itridncs 
 ahead WL'i'u rotten, and hroken into holes ; S(j a halt was 
 called to light the lani})S and take the lares : one dollar 
 each paid J'or the wiiole turnont. With lamps lit, and 
 a volunteer running-lbotman ahead to hjok out for holes, 
 we got on well till a turn of the road showed a couple of 
 lamps advancing to meet us. To the right was a Inim 
 brawling amongst boulders, which I knew to be hard 
 though I could not see them clearly ; a thicket of birch- 
 trees rose to the level of the rijad, and a felled pine laid 
 lengthwise was the (jnly parapet. To the left Mas a 
 steep bank of red clay. 'I reckon it's a bad bit,' said 
 the driver. 'That's Tom with the other team. Go 
 along !' So saying, he gathered np his handful (jf straps, 
 stamped his foot, and, taking the ontside, went along, 
 touching the prostrate tree, as it afterwards appeared 
 from the wh.eel-marks. Tom, on his part, was driving 
 another empty Lord Mayor's coach with four pair of 
 bays. So fourteen horses and two stages met and passed 
 in the dark with scarce an inch to spare. There is a 
 Highland legend which portends woe and disaster from 
 gray horses, and it rose up like a warning ghost in these 
 American highlands ; but the day of the gray horse had 
 not come. Jehu took the compliments showered 
 upon him very composedly, and we got to the (ilen 
 
208 
 
 AN AMERICAN TIIAMI'. 
 
 Ifousc safe, somid, and cliilly. A l)i'i.L;'lit hull, I'lill nf 
 \v(!ll-(li'('ssc;(l (luict iM'(ij)li', ail c'\c(.'ll('iit meal, ami g(j(ul 
 quarters wv.va ready, ordered by telegrapli l»y a iirovidtnt 
 eoiiiradc, who had heard inueh of tlu; crowds at ilie 
 (}len House. So here we landed safely, at 1(132 fei't 
 al)ov(! till! sea, in the midst of an American forest, 
 loo miles from the steamer, in a mansion worthy ol' 
 the <^Teat cities whose tourists here deli<j;ht to .ahide. 
 Delta, Ariel, Osprey ; huts in Labrador and hotels in 
 the cai)itals of Newfoundland, Cape Breton, Xova Scotia, 
 and Xew Brunswick, oven the ' ibiir-iu-hand club' art; 
 sadly eclipsed by coasting steanu^rs, cars, country inns, 
 and eight-in-hand stages in YankeedootUedom. 
 
 Sqif. 7. — An adventurous American company have 
 constructed a road to the top of the highest peak of this 
 high cluster of mountains, christened by loyal citizens 
 after their greatest men. From various ' public houses ' 
 ill the district, stages, carriages, pony-phaetons, country 
 cars, ponies, and pedestrians, start for the ' tip-top house ' 
 at all hours. The stables at the top are crowded with 
 cavalry in tine weather. An electric telegraph orders 
 dinner above, in proportion to the number who start 
 from below. Vehicles are drawn up by four, six, and 
 even eiirht horses. 
 
 The American cockney travels by rail from his Lon- 
 
TlIK W'lIITK MolNJALNs. 
 
 2(1! I 
 
 «l'>ii or Liverpool to tlie foot ol' his ])vn Novis, or ' Dciiin- 
 na-niuieu-(liiibhu ;• drives to (lie lop in u eoacli-aiid- 
 si.k; dines, drives down again like a gentleman, and pays 
 in groenbaeks. 
 
 The distance from the (Jleii IToiise to the toj) of 
 Mount \Vasliingt(»n is 8 miles, the averagv grade is li' 
 feet in lOO, the asc(!nt from the plateau on \vhieh th.' 
 hotel stands is 4<>53 feet, aceording to the measure- 
 ments given. The road was begun in isr);"), finished in 
 18G1, and is a very creditable tourist's piomenade. It 
 is, in foct, good solid engineering, worthy of an Alpine 
 pass. Sketching and scratch-hunting are best puivsucd 
 on foot, so \ve scorned the coaclies and mounted 'shanks' 
 
 nagie. 
 
 The mountains are not very remark.able for beaut}- 
 of outline, but they are grand big hills. The ridge oppo- 
 site to the Glen House is of the shape which is called a 
 sierra in Spain, a scaur in Scotland, a scaw in some parts 
 of Engh^Jid, scarn in Gaelic. It is scarped, serrated ; 
 m short, it is like the sharp-toothed instrument whose 
 name comes from the same root,— a sa\\'. The points 
 of this saw are named after men who helped to shear 
 the States from their English root, and the top-sawyer is 
 Washington, of course. He is 6285 feet hiffh. 
 
 A 
 
lilO 
 
 AN AMKIJK AN TKAMI'. 
 
 These i'liniily i»f)rtrnits nmy l)C exprosscMl l)y Loid 
 Duirerin's sluirk-iootli diagnim of the Loibdeii Isles. 
 
 A A A A A 
 
 'Mount Clay, 54(10, rising over Hk; (ruir(»r Mexico: 
 th(3 stout, Mj[uare-8houl(lere(l Jellerson ; the syinnietrical, 
 sharp, and sjdendid ]>yraniid of Adams, ;")(S()0, and Madi- 
 son, o3()l, who completes the staff of Washington,' make 
 a resjxH'taijIe old saw, but the teeth ai'e Munted when 
 compared witii Al[)ine ai^^uilles, Norwegian s}>ik, and 
 Highland cathair. 
 
 American scenery is very grand, but the grandeur is 
 
 liorizontal not vertical. The nursery rhyme tells that 
 
 There was an old woman 
 Lived imder the moon, 
 And all that .^lie wanted 
 Was elbow-room. 
 
 She might have found it in America. There is so 
 much space, that land is spread oul in plains; but 
 in the Old Country the land and the people are piled in 
 heaps for want of elbow-room. 
 
 If the peaks of this North American sierra be 
 like a blunted saw, the back of it rests on rounded hill- 
 shoulders. Up to a height of about 4000 feet, the outlines 
 are curves .^-v, and the ground is hidden by dense forests of 
 tall trees. The foundation of the pile is rock, of course, 
 
« hii.L)Iu;n ur thk mist. 
 
 211 
 
 Itut sciircu u bit of rock i.s visible IVoiii below. Tiv«^h 
 need soil and a ceitiun jivonige eliniate, so Hk; vegetation 
 registers tiie climate and betrays the nature of the hidden 
 soil. These reeoi-ds arc marked in horizontal lines of 
 green and gray; they come out conspieiiuusly in sketch- 
 ing, and in good photographs the forest limits are clear 
 as ruled rays and horizontal washes of brown sunlight 
 can make them. The pedestals on w hieh ' the stalf of 
 Washington' stand have mouldings of boulder-terraces, 
 flights of giant steps, on one of which the (ilen J louse 
 Hotel is perched at 10:^2 feet above the sea. In the 
 morning the sunlight creeps down from the bald bare 
 sharp heads of the fathers of their country, to their 
 round shoulders, and it leaps from step to step into the 
 corn-fields in the M'ide strath. In the eveninf the 
 blue shade of Washington stalks out of the yellow 
 corn, up the steps of the green amphitheatre, into 
 the forest ; mounts over the ridge of Carter, and wraps 
 up his New-England children in a robe of blue 
 for the night. This in fine weather. As a rule, 
 the ancients wear damp sheets of mist and night-caps 
 of snow, and sit behind cloud curtains, with their 
 feet in cold water. What colds they must have in 
 their poor old stone noddles! Surely it is better to 
 call old hills by old native sonorous names, which 
 
212 
 
 AN AMERICAN TRAM I'. 
 
 have a natural or mythical meaning. ' The Abode of 
 Storm,' 'T]ie House of tlie Mist,' 'The Bear's Hill,' 
 or ' The White IMountain,' suggest appropriate trains 
 of thought ; but men's proper names, impropcaiy used, 
 suggest twaddle to those who write guide-books, and to 
 those who read them. 
 
 John Nokes, the father, or Jonathan Styles, the son, 
 is right to inscribe his name in Westminster Abbey, or 
 the Capitol at Washington ; in the I'antheon, or Val- 
 halla, or on Mount Parnassus — if he can get there ; if 
 he does not, no one else will. P.ut George Washington 
 has no need to be advertised in the highlands like 
 PLANTATIOX BITTERS. His name is conspicuous 
 on the page of history, on the map of the world, and 
 in the temple of Fame. 
 
 Up to a height of about 3000 feet the soil on the 
 hiU-side appears to be drift. Stones are rounded, and 
 packed in a matrix of clay. In this region the trees 
 are tall and well grown. Above 3000 feet the trees 
 diminish to the size of a Newfoundland forest. At 4000, 
 or thereabouts, they dwindle to the size of a forest in 
 Labrador, crouch down and crawl along the ground, as if 
 crushed by snow, scourged by wind, and cramped by 
 rheumatism. They point their blasted arms and crooked 
 fingers at the upper region, in which Jack Frost abides. 
 
HILL CLLMATES. 
 
 213 
 
 In this zone all the loose stones are angular and 
 natives ; the vegetation is like that of the coast near 
 Cape Harrison in Labrador, near the North Cape in 
 Norway, and about the perpetual snow-line everywhere. 
 There is a belt of berries and bushes, which fades into an 
 11. per belt of mosses and lichens. This belt is very like 
 the low coast country in Lapland, Iceland, Labrador, 
 and Newfoundland ; and the highest hills in Scotland, 
 drift excepted. The glacial period can be reached by 
 mounting, by moving north, or by seeking a sea-coast 
 near polnr water. 
 
 Tlie shape of the lower gi-ound is that of the amphi- 
 tlieatre of boulder-terraces which surrounds Conception 
 Bay in Newloundland : the materials also are similar. 
 The terraces are made of largo heavy hard rounded 
 stones, gravel, clay, and sand, and they do not seem to 
 be natives. It is clear that water had much to do with 
 the packing of the terraces, for sand and pebbles are laid 
 in beds and arranged about the larger stones, as water 
 only can pack such materials. 
 
 The highest point in the glen is at 'the Notch,' 
 where t\\-o rivers part. The ground there is a ruckle of 
 loose stones arranged in flat beds by running water, 
 possibly l)y streams which flow out of ' the CJulf of 
 .Mexico,' or Mhatever flic name of t],o hirrhest corrie 
 
214 
 
 AN AMEKICAN TKAMF. 
 
 may be. The st reams are insignificant in sunuiier, and 
 their rock-denuding work, measured at falls and sucli 
 places, nowhere exceeds a few vertical feet or yards ol' 
 rock-cutting. The drift at watersheds looks like foreign 
 drift arranged at spots now 2000 or 3000 ieet above 
 the sea. Hitchcock calls this an ancient sea-margin, 
 and it looks very like a ' tarl>ert' at the end of a couple 
 of long sea-lochs — a ])lace like the Labrador isthmus 
 above mentioned (p. 79). 
 
 Three hundred and ninety-eight feet lower than this 
 watershed, a couple of miles from it, in the bottom of 
 the glen, at the level of the hotel, and 1632 feet above 
 the sea, glacial striie near the burn point N. 35° E. and 
 S. 35" W., allowing O'' for magnetic variation. 
 
 If these were made by a local glacier, it came out of 
 the highest corrie, and went down-stream to Gorliam ; its 
 depth is to be found by nuirks on the sides of the glen V- 
 On the flank of Mount Washington, beside the new 
 road, at 1992 feet above the sea, and 38 feet lower than 
 ' the Notch; the stria^ point N. 30° E., and they are per- 
 fectly horizontal. 
 
 Higher up, beside the same road, at 2307 feet above 
 the sea, 675 feet higher than the hotel, and 277 feet 
 higher than 'the Notch,' stride perfectly horizontal by 
 spirit-level aim N. 30" E., or S. 30^' W. 
 
HIGH IfE-MxVKKS. 
 
 215 
 
 All these are so fresh that rubbings were taken from 
 the rock-surface. 
 
 If these marks were made by a local land-olacier, 
 tamiliar ])ictures of glaciers elsewhere make it easy to 
 map out the old ice. It must have come out of the hi.-h 
 
 o 
 
 corrie ; it was at least 700 i'eet dee}) opposite to the 
 hotel ; it must luive gone after the water to Gorham, and 
 thence along the Androscoggin river-course to the sea- 
 coast, 25 miles to the north of Tortland. The other 
 stream, which parted from it at 'the Xotcli,' nmst have 
 followed the other stream, whidi reaches the sea a little 
 to the south of Tortland. At I'ortland, 90 miles away, 
 glacial strite are as well marked as they are at ^Mount 
 Washington, but they point ^^. 28" W. at a mountain-pass, 
 diagontdl} across the rivers, instead of pointing up- 
 stream, as they ought to do, if made by local glaciers. 
 
 Either the whole land was covered by une vast 
 slidmg geological formation of polar land-ice, or it was 
 drowned in an arctic current like that which is now 
 passing the same latitude in the east Immediately 
 under the 'tip-top' house is a 'corrie' ealled by the 
 euphonious name of Tuckerman's Iia\ine. Ti:ckerman 
 was somebody, of course. In this temple of Tucd^er- 
 man's apotheo.sis, a snow-wreath generally survives the 
 summer, and forms an arch, which is a favourite 'lion,' 
 
21G 
 
 AN AMKIJICAN TltAMF. 
 
 tliuugli mtlier liiird to get at. The rocks iil)Out it have 
 the tbiin of rcK'ks about Alpine glaciers ; it is the very 
 sjjot ill wliich to plant a glacier. If tlie snow-wreath 
 be the last remnant of a departed race of giants, 
 tlu! last of them must have carried stones from Mount 
 Washington to Gorliam. But if the ice was sea-ice 
 drifting throuiih a narrow sound, from the north-east 
 towards the south-west, no loose stones from Mount 
 Washington could well reach Gorhani, though they might 
 reach Xew York, or any other place to the south. 
 
 At Gorham, 802 feet above the sea according to 
 guide-books, tlie rocks are all glaciated ; the bottom ol' 
 the valley is a plain ol dril't, the sides are conspicuously 
 terraced, and the rivers have not laid the rock bare, 
 liivulets higher up have done more work, so they are of 
 okUa- date than the lower rivers. 
 
 At Thomson's Fall, above the Glen House, tlie 
 rivulet lias smoothed a considerable breadth of rock, 
 nnd it has worn a trench in anciss " '" ' "" 
 
 o 
 
 36 wide ; the depth of water was 5 inches, the width 
 oi' the stream 18, and the height of the fall below this 
 liny spout is some G or 8 feet. The other lalls which 
 are visited have done about as much in proportion to 
 
 their 
 
 size. The river at (Jorliam has not cleared the 
 
 ib'ift out oi' the r(»ck-oroove in which it tk>ws. Th( 
 
GORIIAM TERRACES. 
 
 21' 
 
 terraces line tlie hills : one is fully 200 feet high, cind 
 as well preserved as any in Scandinavia. They contain 
 \ery large boulders of red, gray, pink, coarse and fine 
 grairied granite, granite witli dark slate enclosed, black 
 and red porphyry, black hornljlende, hard slate, and 
 others, similar to Labrador rocks and northern boulders. 
 Many of these are finely polished and striated ; but, 
 after a long search, no single scrap of the pecnliar 
 shiny mica-schist of Mount Washington was found at 
 Gorham. The base of the terrace on the north side has 
 been laid bare by a landslip ; the foundation on which 
 heavy boulders are piled is finely-laminated gray sandy 
 clay, arranged horizontally. "Where small rivulets have 
 washed the face of the terrace, beds, tliin as paper — 56 
 to an inch, and 50 feet thick at least — are seen. The 
 beds are evenly disposed al)0ut large stones, so they 
 must have been deposited in still water. Witli the 
 thermometer at 70 in the shade, it was very pleasant 
 to think of cool lakes and ice, and drink iced water. 
 No shells were found in these terraces ; even under a 
 strong microscope, nothing was found in the sand ; and 
 till something organic is found at some high level in. 
 American terraces, glacialists may continue to theorise. 
 While busily rubbing a bit of heel-ljall upon a sheet 
 of paper laid on a rock, witli the edges north iind soutli 
 
218 
 
 AN A.MEK1CAN TKA.MF. 
 
 by compass, a regular ])e(lestriaii in bloiisn and kna])- 
 sack, alpenstock and all, stalked up, t'ollovved by a 
 gentleman in spectacles, who said nothing. The guide, 
 if such he was, took a wriidvle from the stranger, and 
 told him in return that he had hunted strue on these 
 mountains for many years. He meant to write to 
 Agassiz; it is to be hoped that he will send heel-ball 
 co])ies of glaciated rocks to head-cpuirters at Boston. 
 So nnicli for the superficial geology learned during three 
 days in this region. 
 
 The natural history was taught by bears. Each of 
 these public houses keops a bear, chained by the neck 
 to a large post. The Itear at tiio Glen House was big 
 and black and lusty, and looked good-humoured. 
 Wishing to make acquaintance with every living thing, 
 walked down to fraternise with tJie Ijear. The brute 
 turned his back and walked off to the far side of his 
 worn ring, sighing and grunting, as if he were some- 
 what nneasy in his mind or body, and wanted comfort. 
 Having got to the end of his tether, he sat dov/n on his 
 hunkers and gazed abstractedly at Washington over the 
 way. But there was something indescribable in the 
 manner of doing this ; it was so like acting that sus- 
 picion was roused. Paushig at the edge of the ring, the 
 traveller tried to act his part and sell the bear a bar- 
 
 i 
 
KKATKHNITE. 
 
 2iU 
 
 guiij. Jiulging by tht' cliaiii-iiiarks liow far the bruto 
 C(juld reacli, the human actor took his phice \villiiii the 
 ling, turned his back on the bear, and gazed altstractedly 
 at Carter on tlie otlun" side. Botli were looking out oi' 
 the corners of their eyes. The bear, thinking he had 
 done it ratlier well, suddenly sprang up and charged, 
 running as fast as ever he could to catch the man ; Ijut, 
 as the stage directions might have it, enter bear L. ; exit 
 traveller R, witli a quick motion. The lirst act ended, 
 the second began by puffing and snullling, and whining 
 and fawning for food ; l)ut a visii.m of the brown, bushy, 
 Labrador dog, with the sharp wldte teeth, rose up, and 
 that mild dodge would not do either. So }5ruin rose, 
 and stalked off with a tragic, solenm, two-sided step, 
 and laid himself do\\Ti to bask in the sun. 
 
 The bear at the Alpine House was bigger, and fatter, 
 and better-natured, but evidently a very miserable 
 brute. Near him were a tribe of very happy big free 
 brown kingfishers. They made a noise like the sharpen- 
 ing of edge-tools, and delighted to sit swinging on the 
 telegraph wires, from which they dived headlong into a 
 still mill-pond. After each plunge they tlew round 
 tlieir domain, o"d then they sat in a row and sang t.icir 
 song of triumpJi over dead minnows. 
 
 If there be ' sermons in stones,' the rocks hen-abouts 
 
220 
 
 AN AMKiaCAN TRAMP. 
 
 are eloquent, and teach sometliing of American ethno- 
 logy. Tliere is a piifling tribe of bill-stickers in every 
 conuininity. Afoses Jind S(jn keo[) a poet ; here they keep 
 artists witli a good eye for the pictures(|ue. Londoners 
 used to read the virtues of Warren's Ijhicking from every 
 dead wall ; but llighlaniU'rs, wlio wear no boots, were 
 s})ared this blessing. American city highlanders do 
 wear Wellington boots when they stamp on the head of 
 Washington, and tliey (h'ink bitters ; so at every pictur- 
 esque spot in this their highland region, they learn the 
 virtues of the 'cherokee medicine,' 'golden bitters,' the 
 ' vermin exterminator,' or some other quackery. On every 
 picturesque foreground rock or stone which peers through 
 the tangled forest grass, hideous white letters a yai'd 
 long roused a strong wisli to exterminate some vermin 
 with their own drinks and drugs. Scriljbling on walls 
 is an English vice ; in America it has grown big, like 
 everything else. In this land of liberty, it is to be 
 hoped that citizens will be so free as to duck the bill- 
 stickers in their own pails of whitcM'ash. Tlie tourist 
 Americanus, whose sense of beauty is thus outraged, 
 seems to be a well-'/'^-^sscd, weli-cducatcd, good- 
 liumoured, prosperous mortal, pleasuring witli his wife 
 and bairns, witli plenty of spare cash to pay his way, 
 and fully resolved to enjoy his ho'idny. There seems 
 
 
HILL-STICKKKS, BKWAIJK 
 
 221 
 
 to be no shoddy lioiv. Tlie dillereiice is in the wider 
 region over wliieh this variety of a comiiioii human 
 migratory speeios deliglitg to wander. 
 
 Tourists from Cul)a and Soutli America, and the 
 Soutliern States ; Labrador and the North ; Canach'ans, 
 luiropcans, men from opjiosite ends of tlie cartli, make 
 a struggle to get to the ' tip-top house ' and get plioto- 
 graphed on tlie liead of Wasliington. Amongst tlie 
 Britishers wlio shared that he .r was one with a 
 handle to his name, and his advent was announeed l)y 
 telegraph. It so clianced tiiat the WTiter was the first 
 Britisher nji, and while standing on Washington's bum]) 
 of veneration, in the cool lireeze, he heard these words :— 
 ' Tliere he is— do tell ; look what a beautiful bag he has on 
 liis back ; that's the Lord.' Turning suddenly, a bevy ol' 
 girls were detected at the kitchen-door, so the sham lord 
 pounced amongst them, and routed tliem in emulation of 
 tlie black bear down below^ The real lord was called ' a 
 lone object,' and much and deservedly admired when he 
 arrived with his friend. Britishers and Yankees, lords 
 and commons, fraternised, dined, got pliotographs, and 
 drove down together in peace and good fellowship ; and 
 may they long stick to the same excellent plan. 
 As they used to say in France in 1848— 
 
 VIVE r,A iniPUTi DEMO(;_ .soc— 
 
222 
 
 AN AMFKICAN TUAMl' 
 
 The j)()iiits establisliud by this upward cast ni'o — 
 first, tliiit the Hanks ol" ihu highest niouiitaiu in eastern 
 Nortli America are striated horizontally, uj) to a certain 
 height at least, in a direction ])arallel to the longest 
 mountain-chains in that i-egion ; secondly, that stones 
 similar to Lahi'ador rocks occur at far greater heights 
 than 1000 feet in terraces at Gorham, at the hotel 
 1G32, at the 'Xotch' 2030, near the 'ledge' above 3000, 
 pnd elsewhere. Without a knowledg(i of tlu; luc.'d 
 geology of the whole district, it is imj)ossible to say 
 whence these stones did not come ; but stones like 
 them occur along the whole route descrilted so far, i^nd 
 they did not come down from ]\Iount Washington. 
 
 The geologist in the blouse referred to Dana's 'Geo- 
 logy' for information as to the age of the rocks in this 
 tract. The work, when consulted, gives uo certain in- 
 formation on this point ; l)ut the rocks themselves arc 
 sufHciently conspicuous. They are disposed in beds, 
 which are much uj^heaved and contorted. IMany of 
 these are sedimentary beds, which retain their original 
 texture ; others have been altered into a peculiar 
 crumpled mica-schist, which looks very like frosted 
 silver. When the sunlight streams through the forest, 
 and lights up a fallen block by the road-side, it glimmers 
 like a great nugget of virgin ore. Where this rock has 
 
IIKIII KT-.MAKKS. 
 
 2l'.". 
 
 i 
 
 wcallipred, Ijranclu's like silviT boughs sci'iii io Ix- spivad 
 nil tlu! .sLoUL", and sliaiics likf Ibssil-slK'Hs risi^ tip in 
 clusters elsuwluiiv. Other IkmU are hard m-av uneiss : 
 others have lar-v plates of mica; Imt ik. rocks like tho 
 louse Ixudders on >ronnt Wasliinnlon were seen in it, 
 and none ol' the mica was found in the terraces to the 
 iK.rtii ; plenty of nn'ca was fonnd at \ew York, 
 
 On leaving Gorham for Montreal l>y rail, on the 
 0th, the same system of spoorin^- was ]»ursued. It is 
 excellent ])astime while travelling through a new 
 country, but, like other hunting, detaihid description of 
 every run is a bore. The result is easily t(jld. The 
 same water-work wJiieh occurs on the Atlantic slope 
 recm\s in the middle and on both sides of the valley of 
 the Connecticut, and on the east side of the St. Law- 
 rence valley. At all the watersheds crossed by tho 
 Grand Trunk— at all heights up to 1500 feet at least 
 —beds and mounds of water-worn gravel are piled ; 
 but above a certain height— apparently alxnit 3000 
 feet— the mountains are bare rock. From Dana's 
 'Geology' it appears that glacial strire occur on the 
 summits of hills in the whole of this region 
 
 He says : — 
 
 ' Again the scratches are found on iieiglits as well as lower 
 lands. They occur to a height of 5000 feet on tin- Green ^ham- 
 tains (Hitchcock) ; on the top of Jay's Peak, 4000 feet liigh 
 
224 
 
 AN AMKinCAN TRAM I'. 
 
 (AtliiniH) ; (III tlu; tiip III" Mi)iiailiii)(k. Tn m»iii»' iiistanct's tlu' 
 wear and Hcratclu's are most (lecuU'd on tlu' imitli isidc of idcva- 
 liujjM. Pi'ol'cssdr Hitchcock has observed that Mnunt Mdiiadiiock, 
 in Ni;w llanipshiiv, 3250 led liij^di, in scaril'u'd I'lom lop to 
 bottom on it^ nortlifin and western sides, but not on the southern. 
 
 (Jroovin^'s over the hi^diest ]»avts ol" the summil-i 
 
 in the (Jreen Mountains on whidi they occur were more easterly 
 in their direction, according' to Ilitclicock, than those over tlie 
 ^'enoral surface beh)W. The followin*,' an; a few examples : — On 
 Manslield Mountain, 4848 feet liij^di, the course is S. 2(>'~' E. ; on 
 Jay's Peak, 4018 feet, S. 40' E. ; on Camel's Hump, HH.s feil. 
 S. 40° E. ; ^bmnt Holly, 1415 feet, S. Go" E. Several p.'aks in 
 the Iloosac ran^'e, in Massachusetts, S. 45' E. to S. 7o^ E. 
 Hitchcock also gives S. 40" AV. us another course observed on 
 Manslield Mountain.' 
 
 From tliis quotation it appears that the conr.S(! on 
 
 isolated peaks was not from iiortli to soiitli, as re(|uii'e(l 
 
 by the big-glacier theory, but from various directions, 
 
 which agrees with the movement of a current llowing 
 
 amouifst and over submerged hills. In vallevs, current 
 
 or local glacier must have moved in the big grooves 
 
 which still remain ; and accordingly scratches in big 
 
 valleys do sometimes coincide pretty well with the 
 
 shape of the land. 
 
 * In the valley of the Connccticiit the courses S. 8° E. to 
 S. 10° W. are very common, as well as over the country east and 
 west.' 
 
 Now, in reading of ' a valley' an old-country traveller 
 is apt to picture something like the Valley of Chamouni, 
 
I'UOHTUATK (JUANItKllJ. 
 
 
 nil 
 
 E. to 
 
 ist and 
 
 Iveller 
 louni, 
 
 nr till' couiitry iilxiut tlir Lake of (IcucNa, nr tln' Cale- 
 donian ("anal, uv tin; Vak- ulClytk'. In travelling from 
 Portland to Montreal, these old-lasliioiied notions arc! 
 driven awiiv. Tin; vallev of the Connecticut would itas.s 
 for ii wide, ho_u^y, sandy, gravelly plateau, overgrown 
 hy a dense forest, but with occasional hills rising- in 
 the distance. Without, a haronieter, it is .sonu'tinies 
 hard to tell wlieru the road crosses a vaUey ov sciiles a 
 rid^^'e. The deep gk'us are at right anj^les to the rid^i". 
 With the haronieter in liaud, a section can he made of the 
 whole of a day's route, and on(! was made accordingly. 
 
 After scaling the last of four ridges, at a point LIOO 
 foot above and IGO miles from Portlaiul, there is a dear 
 run down hill for lo-i miles to ^Montreal. The drift- 
 terraces on this side are more conspicuous than they 
 arc on the Atlantic slope. The Canadian side; is a rich 
 slope of well-cultivated land, with sleek horses and 
 cattle grazing ])lacidly in green fields, wliicli are watered 
 by still shining rivers of clear water, moving slo^\•ly 
 over beds of gravel and sand. Through these, glaciated 
 rocks and boulders peer out here and there. In the 
 midst of this Hat smiling land occasional rocky hills 
 stand out boldly upon the horizon like blue islands. 
 Montreal Mountain is one of these, and from it a very 
 wide landscape is seen. It is grand scenery, but 
 
 Q 
 
22t; 
 
 AN AMERICAN TRAMl'. 
 
 liorizontal grandeur. Tliu Adiruiidaks, lOU miles away, 
 and other mountains which make a figure on maps, 
 are too distiuit to make conspicuous features in Canada. 
 The Lawrentian drain is too lav off to be seen at 
 all. The river St. Lawrence looks like a strait ; the 
 'valley' suggests immensiiy, but it is the innuensity 
 (jf a wide green sea, with a few rocky islands on the 
 distant horizon. Upon Montreal ]\Iountain, which is 
 limestone and trap, are large blocks of gneiss and 
 granite, and striie, found about 200 feet above the sea 
 oji a trap-dyke, near a road, aimed N.E. magnetic, as 
 does the long axis of the ^nountain itself. So the spoor 
 left in the Straits of Belleisle (p. 107) was picked up at 
 Montreal after a long cast. 
 
 Nothing worthy of note occurred during the journey, 
 unless that we arrived in exceptional good time, and 
 without accident. The unfortunate Grand Trunk spent 
 its energies in building the biggest bridge in the world, 
 and has never recovered the effort. Permanent way, 
 rolling stock, and shares, are shaky. A train broke 
 down not long ago in the heart of the wild boggy forest 
 near the frontier. There was nothing to cat ' on board,' 
 and nothing but berries and birch-bark ' on shore.' 
 The passengers were almost starved, but they were 
 rescued at last. In winter, frosts are such that the 
 
i;aii)i:i;.s. 
 
 L>L'7 
 
 Kngli.sh system uf chairs will not suit Aniericau rails— 
 so it is said. They are hitched in souiehuw with hooks, 
 and play so that the ends move. Oi;e result is a peculiar 
 clanking sound, which is characteristic of American 
 travel. Another is an occasional smash. The pace 
 is everywhere slow, therefore a smash does little serious 
 damage ; but now and then it does a great deal, as in 
 the late Richmond accident, where a whole train full of 
 emigrants was decanted into a canal, by the simple 
 expedient of opening the drawbridge. 
 
 At the froiitier, baggage was chalked and dinner 
 eaten, and tliat was the only symptom of passing from 
 o]ie country to another. It was rumoured that se^'eral 
 Southern officers, l)ag and baggage, passed successfullv 
 into Canada; but who can tell a Southern from a 
 Northern, a State's man from a Canadian or a Britisher, 
 uidess he choose to reveal himself or betray his nation- 
 ality by some peculiar phrase or twang? Without 
 acting a part, I have passed for a nati^•e everywhere, 
 unless I chose to say that I came from the Old Country'. 
 One of our fellow-passengers was a Scotchwoman, 
 who had been a Canadian, and now is a Cuban, tra^-elling 
 as interpreter, maid, companion, and factotum to a Spanish 
 party out on ' the tramp,' as the phrase is. Xo wonder 
 that Southerns slip in and out in such a crowd. 
 
CHAPTER XIT. 
 
 MONTREAL TO NIAGARA AND BUFFALO. 
 
 Arrived at Montreal on Friday 9tli. On the 12t]i 
 travelled by rail and steamer to Ottawa city, about 120 
 miles ; on the 14th by rail to Prescott, 5 .: iniles and 
 down the rapids by steamer to ^Montreal, 113 miles ; 
 on the lotix by steamer to Quebec, 150 miles ; on the 
 iVtli to Montreal by the river, 150 miles ; on the lOtli 
 by rail to Brockville, 125 miles ; on the 20th left 
 Brockville by steamer, and a^iived at Toronto on the 
 21st, about 200 miles ; on the 22d travelled by rail to 
 Hamilton and Niagara, 80 miles. In all, with simdry 
 expeditions in carriages and on foot, more than 1100 
 miles in 13 days. 
 
 On arriving at a new place, it is a good plan to 
 mount to the highest attainable spot, and there make a 
 mental map for future use. The article is useful, port- 
 able, and easily made ; and when combined with other 
 maps and mental sketches, it becomes a portable model. 
 Like solid statues, which gi-ow out of a dozen photo- 
 
MENTAL SURVEYING. 
 
 9'X) 
 
 *d *d «/ 
 
 
 graphs, the lengtli, breadth, and heiglit, form and colour, 
 of a country, seen in a short time, grow int(j a solid 
 miniature image at last. 
 
 At Montreal the best attainable spot for a traveller's 
 survey is the top of 'the Mountain.' In the native 
 country of many Canadians a rock 550 feet high would 
 be ' a hill,' but in Canada it is high gn^ound. The view 
 from tlie :\rountain is magnificent. The Adirondaks are 
 clearly seen in one direction, and they are distant more 
 than 100 miles. A few pictures taken from such points 
 may include a large tract. For example, ten circles of 
 1.00 miles described about points visited in this region 
 approach each other or cross. 
 
 One horizon seen from a hill near Sydney joins 
 another seen from a hill near Halifax ; and those two 
 circles are linked together by a third seen from a hill 
 near the head of the Bay of Fundy. The horizon of 
 Springhill, at Fredericton, joins these three to the wider 
 eye-circle described by turning the head on the top of 
 Mount Washington. Five more eye-sketches, taken from 
 Quebec, :Montreal, Brockville, Buffalo, and High Peak 
 in tlie Catskills, carry this survey to Iie^v York. Broad 
 l)ands carried across and around the country ]>y lookinrr 
 out from steamers and railway cars, lea^-e few blanks. 
 In fine clear weather, by the help of steam, it is possihh^ 
 
280 
 
 AN AMERICAN TRAMP. 
 
 to see a large countiy so as to learn the shape of it in a 
 very short time. 
 
 The country seen from ^Montreal Mountain appears 
 to he a fair sample of a tract of greater area than l^ritain. 
 Itonghly, it is ahout as far from (^uehec to Lake Ontario 
 as it is from London to Edinburgh, and the whole rise 
 ('^P)4 feet) is less than the rise to a church weathercock. 
 Two t!Ood trees would measure it. Water is a levelling 
 insti'umcnt, and the level of Lake Ontario (234 feet) 
 may be carried from Hamilton past Brockville and 
 INIontreal, 500 miles to Quebec, where the vertical 
 scale may be read in the hill on shells and sea-mar- 
 gins. When Canada is fully mapped, the shape of it 
 will be like that Avhich the sea and a rivulet make in 
 sand when the tide ebbs through a narrow passage be- 
 tween two rocks, and a new-born streamlet follows the 
 track of the el)b-tide. 
 
 The view from the esplanade at Quebec takes in 
 the rock-pass through which the sea escaped when it 
 retired from Lake Ontario ; and through which that 
 young giant, the St. Lawrence, now follows the sea. On 
 a fine bright sunny autumn morning, the Quebec land- 
 scape is painted in brilliant colours. The land is 
 yello\\- with corn and spangled with white houses ; the 
 sea and the blue hills are like the fairy lobc wliicli 
 
TIIF DOORSTEP OF CANADA. 
 
 231 
 
 the good lady got from her godmother — *coiilcnr dii 
 temps ;' the foreground town is 'dirty box' and hriek- 
 diist gkzed with soot and sunliglit; and the picture is 
 worthy to be engraved on the niemoiy. Tn the centre 
 of it, about 9 a.m. in Septembei-, a spot of bhie 
 shadow is let into the yellow terrace which Ijounds the 
 blue St Lawrence on the left. It is a manifest notch 
 chipped out of a step on the hill-side. So much is 
 best seen from a distance of ten miles. 
 
 A drive of ten miles shows that the little blue chij) 
 on the edge of the door-step of Canada was made by the 
 famous fall of Montmorenci, whicli tumbk's 250 ieet 
 <lo\vn-stairs into the sea. When the sea-level was higher 
 than this threshold, there were no falls, so the notch 
 made by the fall records a date in the pre-historic annals 
 of Canada. If the rate at which the falls now dig shale 
 could bo ascertained, the date of the dynasty of l)oulders, 
 drift, and sea-shells could be fixed. The step is some- 
 what higher than the top of the fall, for the river has 
 cut a trench on the stone. At Queljcc one sea-mar«'iii 
 is clearly marked at about 300 feet above t]ie present 
 shore. The Chaudiere on th(^ opposite bank of tlic St. 
 Lawrence does not plungv at once int.. the nvv\v,\, but 
 h'aps 100 feet, and staggers on broken stones iho rest df 
 tlio way down 1o tlie strand. Xumerous smaller streams 
 

 AN AMKIUCAX TKA..rP, 
 
 run down in y grooves, Lut tlu'y all riui down-stairs 
 from shelving plains ; and a wull-niarkod sliolf recurs 
 at about 300 feet, at luany distant points abo.it (Quebec. 
 
 Upon some of these ()p])osite steps, comnujn sea-shells 
 are hurled in drift, at ahout 300 feet, and houlders of 
 large size ar(} perched in fields above the falls of ]\Iont- 
 morenci and to the west of (^)uebec. At Urockville, 300 
 miles away, the level of 234 to 300 feet is marked by 
 cockle-shells and boulders. The cockles were found by 
 a native of Wicklow in sinking a Avell, and he was very 
 nnich astonished. Big Laurentian boulders are piled 
 on the surface of a low hill, and fixed in a matrix of 
 yellow clay. Below them, in a well, were smaller stones 
 mixed with Idack earth, and lower do\vn is a bed of fine 
 sand, which yields ^^'ater. The cockles were 28 feet 
 from the surface, below beds of clay of various colours ; 
 and they were for all the world 'like cockles in ould 
 Ireland.' At the head of Lake Ontario, 500 miles away, 
 at Ilanalton, the level of 300 feet is marked by gravel, 
 boulders, and stratified sand ; but, accordhig to Dana's 
 ' Geology,' (r)49), the Ontario terraces are ' destitute of 
 marine remains' beyond Kingston. More searching 
 will probably unearth more shells. 
 
 On the hill-slopes seen from Quebec, higher steps 
 are visible to the left ; and to the right lower steps are 
 
TIIK AMPIIITHKATKK. 
 
 0'V\ 
 
 seen on tlie Isle of Orleans. Mental eyes look at the 
 model, and follow the terraces throngh the Straits of 
 Belleisle, np the Laljrador, round Newfoundland and 
 Xova Scotia, and from Portland to the sliilliiiu' nailery of 
 the aniphitlieati-e, 3U0U feet high, where Washingt.ni and 
 his staff sit gloating over the fair proportions of Canada. 
 
 At the head of Lake Ontario, 500 niik'S ir(nn (^iel)ee, 
 the land rises suddenly from 234 feet to tlie level of 
 Lake Erie, oG4 feet above the sea, or 330 feet above 
 Lake Ontario, nearly level with the top of JMontreal 
 ^fountain, with terraces seen at Quel)cc, and on the 
 flanks of the Alleghanies. 
 
 On the borders of Lake Champlain, sea-shells have 
 been found up to a height of 325 feet. On the opposHe 
 side of the country, more than 100 miles away to the 
 north, ou the banks of the Ottawa, sea-shells have 
 been found up to a heiglit of from 400 to 500 feet, 
 and they have also been found at lower elevations at 
 many places between New York and Cape Breton, be- 
 yond the Alleghanies, and in Canada. At Montreal, 
 according to Sir W. Logan, (pioted by Dana, they reach 
 450 feet al)ove the river, 470 feet above Lake St. Peter, 
 and the tide. From the habits of the shells found, the 
 sea was from 100 to 300 feet deeper Umu tlie places 
 where the 'shelly critturs' lived and died. The species 
 
2:u 
 
 AN AMKKICAX TKAMP. 
 
 found ave identical with those wliicli now inhabit tlie 
 Labrador Se.'is, and a wliale was found 150 feet above 
 the ocean-level, GO feet above Lake Chani])lain. A sea 
 more than GOO feet deeper than the present ocean is 
 thus carried from Quebec to Niagara Falls, and past 
 tlie whale's tondj through Lake Champlain to Albany, 
 past the foot of the Catskills, and to New York. It is 
 proved by sea-shells that a sea extended from Belleisle 
 ])ast Quebec to New York. As yet, according to the 
 books, the shell-scale reads no higher than 470, and 100 
 of water, 570 above the present sea ; but the terrace- 
 scale on the hills reads to 3000 feet at least, and the 
 old scratch of Jack Frost's claws is higher still. 
 
 Nearly 800 miles away from Quebec, the level of 
 570 feet is marked l)y the siioio of Lake ]\richigan. Tt 
 may be read on Lake Erie and elsewhere, for all the 
 upper lakes connuunicate and are near the same level. 
 Beyond Chicago is the highest step to tlv: westward. It 
 is a dead level ]^lain of drift at about 620 feet aljove the 
 sea. Tt corresponds in height to a hill fifty feet high at 
 Buffalo, where Lake Erie escapes, in order to tumble 
 downstairs at Niagara ; to the tops of trees on ]\rontreal 
 AFountain ; to boulders near Quebec ; to collections of 
 water-worn drift on both sides of the Alleghanies. 
 
 Judging by eve, l)v rough measurements hurriedly 
 
A CiEOLOtJlCAL I^ATH. 
 
 23r. 
 
 made, and by tacts culled from l)ooks, teiTaccs seen from 
 the esplanade at Quebec might be followed round the 
 St. LawTenco basin, in which Europa and John lUill 
 might bathe. 
 
 The Canadian rivers confirm this view. They are 
 large copies of Swedish rivers which enter the lialtic and 
 pour their waters through the Sound. If the bed of the 
 Baltic goes on rising, all the Swedish and liussian streams 
 will join to make one largo stream, and it will enter the 
 sea, and pour out of the Baltic basin at the lowest notch 
 in the lip of it, if the whole basin rises evenly. Elsinore 
 will be the Quebec of the Baltic when the sea is poured 
 out and rain pours through. The Canadian basin appears 
 to have risen evenly and gradually ; the sea has i)oured 
 out, rain pours through, and the river St. Lawrence 
 enters the sea at the lowest notch in the lip of the rock- 
 basin, which once held an inland sea largei- than the 
 Baltic. Quebec is the Elsinore of Canada, and the largest 
 Canadian rivers are new-born streams. 
 
 When shells lived at 120 feet above Lake St. Peter, 
 at the foot of Montreal Mountain, the sea-coast was 
 somewhere near Lachine Rapids, and there the old sea- 
 margin seems to extend inland from both sides of the 
 St. Lawrence. All the land below that limit was under 
 tidal water when the shells lived, and tho mvni ri\'cr 
 
2:^0 
 
 AN AMKiaCAN TRAM J'. 
 
 only Ixigan to cut out its groove when the sea ivtirtjtl 
 from Lticliine towards Quebec. Tlie Ottawa and St. 
 Lnwrence tlu'U lonnc^d a V» ii^^^^' thoy make a Y- The 
 saTiJ'j coast-foi'm is repc^ated higher u]). Shells ai'e found at 
 Montreal at 1 20, 220, 38G, 440, 490 feet above the level of 
 Lake St. I'eter.* At higlier rapids in the Si. Lawrence 
 and Ottawa, the ra])id f.dl in land is not confined to the 
 river-bed, l»ut extends a 3 far as the eye can reach and 
 judge. Each rapid marks the end of a step, the mouth 
 of a river, an ancient sea-margin, or the end of a sub- 
 marine delta. Near I'rescott, about 300 miles from 
 Quebec, is a rapid, and a corresponding fall of I'orty feet 
 is at Ottawa city, more than forty miles away. Ijctween 
 Prescott and Lachine are other rapids, which correspond 
 to rapids on the Ottawa. Ancient sea-margins, or con- 
 tour-lines made by the ebb, cross the fork of this Y* 
 When the sea reached so far, the two rivers were neigh- 
 bours, like the Lulea and Umea, but did not meet. Like 
 S vvedish streams, these and other Canadian rivers, which 
 now join in the St. Lawrence at (j)uebec, form long 
 shallow lakes, with short rapids between, throughout 
 their course. The flat M'ater-level of the lakes marks 
 the top of a broad bench, the ' portage,' ' rapid,' or ' fall,' 
 is at the edge of it. Like the rivers, the Grand Trunk 
 
 * Dann, p. .551. 
 
A MF.NTAL MODEL. 
 
 2:V 
 
 and other railways ini;! canals ni.nint luul dt'sirnd Hiv]> 
 ))y step, and each .step was plainly seen alon,-,^ tlic liill- 
 side, when the barometer marked a sudden fall. IJail- 
 roads, canals, rivers, terraces, and sea-shells, tell one tale 
 and help the model. 
 
 In the midst of this amphitheatre oi" grcjit jilains, a, 
 rock of trap and limestone has been left standing,' by 
 the demiding engines which shaped the low ground ; 
 shells left on the side of it make it a scale like a 
 nilometer ; but above all the shells, on the tup of it, 
 three large blocks of granite and gneiss are stranded. 
 They stand near the hn'el of ground near Nijigara, 
 Buffalo, and Chicago, at about 570 feet above Lake 
 St. riere, near tin; highest water-level marked by 
 Canadian drift-shells. The mountain seems to be a roche 
 moutonne, with hard trap to the KE., limestone to the 
 S.W., and the long axis of the hill pointing S.W. Stride 
 found on the ^lountain aimed up the valley ; they 
 abound throughout the whole district, according to the 
 Geological Survey, and aim all manner of ways. At the 
 foot of Lake Ontario, at Brock ville, a rock of gray cpiartz 
 in the town is so finely ])olished that lines on it were 
 invisible, and almost impalpable, till a heell)all rubbing 
 brought them out. Their main direction is X. 4.5° E. 
 (magnetic), and large polished grooves, in which sand- 
 
2.'^« 
 
 AN AMKKICAN TltAMl'. 
 
 lines (if't'ur, itrc ten I'l-ct wide. At ntlicr spots on the 
 MiuiKf rcjck", lines [nnui noitli, iin<l liiixc other lieiivin^'s, 
 l>ut the whole shapo of the rountry hears N.E. and 
 S.W. IJeyond IJroekville, " the thonsand isles " ol' Laki; 
 Ontario closely resemble <^froui)S of low rocks f)ff Hottcn- 
 huryli. The solid rock foundation of Canada, up to the 
 level of Lake Ontario, is glaciated, it is striated in 
 various directi(jns, hut the main lines observed aimed 
 from Ik'lleisle towards Niagara. Upon or near the rock 
 are l)eds of sand, shells, gravel, an(i clay, Avitli large and 
 small scratched boulders of foreign origin. Higher than 
 these l)eds of drift are more beds of sand, shells, gravel, 
 clay, and boulders, as high as up to tlie top of ^lon- 
 treal ^NFountain, and the top of Niagara Falls. 
 
 Surely this glaciated, striated, terraced, flat land of 
 drift and sea-shells, which looks like a green sea witli 
 l)lue isLuids in it, Avas once at the bottom of a gulf like 
 the Baltic, 500 miles long, in which bergs drifted, and 
 grounded, and sowed lioulders, as they no^.' do in the 
 same latitudes, in the bays and on the banks of New- 
 foundland. Surely no glacier could descend from the 
 North Pole, pass south into Canada, and cUmb over the 
 Alleghanics towards the Equator, and yet cut the low 
 grounds into hills and hollows bearing N.E. and S.W., 
 as do the Alleghanie.'j, Canadian hills and hollows, 
 
CuLD CUL'ST. 
 
 ii:ii» 
 
 \vitli 
 riike 
 , and 
 n tlie 
 New- 
 .11 the 
 ■r tlie 
 low 
 S.W., 
 Hows, 
 
 rivers, lakt-lia«iiis, strin', and sand-lines. 'Ihv sjMxir 
 fniiiid in the valh-y <>r the St. Lawrenee points towards 
 Niagara, so it liad to he followed there. 
 
 In winter the power of iee-lloats driven by water- 
 jiuwer i.s treniendou.s. The river freezes, and packs ice 
 till the How of water is obstructed. The rock-pass at 
 (.Quebec is like the Narrows at St. John's, Xowfound- 
 land, in the frontispiece. A photoj^raph was made 
 some years ago, when the river 'took' at (^Juebec. The 
 whole pass, about a mile wide,, was then paved with 
 great broken slal)s and rounded boulders •>!' worn ice, 
 as big as small stacks, piled and tossed, juid heaped 
 and scattered upon the level water below, and i'rozcn 
 solid. The upheaved and contorted crust appeared to 
 be at rest, and the camera was placed upon it ; but the 
 solid was shaken by ice-t^uakes, which resulted from 
 tides and waves in the water below. The camera moved, 
 and the picture was blurred. As a register of an ice- 
 quake, it has the more value. This kind of ice does 
 not produce striation at the water-margin at Quebec. At 
 Montreal, when the river 'goes' the ice goes with it 
 with a vengeance. A watchman sits in a box at the 
 end of the iron tube of the Victoria Bridge, some 50 
 feet above the river, on a solid stone pier. The river 
 once drove its broken crust up the side of the pier, 
 
240 
 
 AN AMERICAN TRAMP. 
 
 over the parapet, on to the railway and the watchman's 
 box. If a river can push ice over an impediment 50 
 feet out of water, the Arctic Current may do more, for 
 it is wider, and deeper, and stronger. The piers are not 
 yet striated by river-ice at IMontreal. At Ottawa tlie 
 river Hows along the foot of a cliff of limestone, which 
 is about 150 feet high. The river is frozen in winter, 
 and when it goes in spring the water is 18 or 20 feet 
 higher than it was in September 18G4. The rocks at 
 the high-Avater level have no trace of glacial stria-. 
 Horizontal beds are undermined, and project over the 
 water-line, as rocks do at the Bay of Fundy, and 
 further north. The upper water-line is marked l)y a 
 horizontal groove, sawed out by river-ice and waves ; 
 but this tool-mark is not the same as the ice-spoor. 
 In the dry autumn of 18G4, a broad rock-surface was 
 bare in the bed of tlie river, below the new buildings at 
 Ottawa. This rock is rubbed by river-ice every spring, 
 and always in one direction, but it is not striated. The 
 beds are shattered, and the fragments thrust from their 
 places down-stream. Large slabs have been moved 
 various distances, so that j(»ints are open from one to 
 three or four feet, and the last of a series has been 
 carried away. 
 
 These surfaces are all rubbed smooth, and the edges 
 
JACK FROST AT (iTTAWA. 
 
 2U 
 
 of broken beds are rounded where exposed to the ice, 
 Imt tliere are no stria?. Tlie limestone is ice-rubbed 
 and water-woi-u, sliattered with ice-wedges, and moved 
 by lev-crs of rixcr-ice worked Ijy water-power, and it 
 bears the marks uf these engines. An iskird below tlie 
 fall is made of .similar horizontal beds of limestone. 
 A stream, occasionally hjaded with heavy ice, is con- 
 stantly passing it in one direction, and the shape of the 
 island is the result of river-denudation. The ])lan of it 
 is like the water-line of a yacht or a fish : shai'p in 
 front, broad at th(» shoulder, tapering down-stream. 
 The elevation is a terraced mound rising by steps 
 to a small slab on the top of all, and each course of 
 masonry has taken the same fish-like plan to resist the 
 ice and the stream. The steepest end is up-stream. 
 This rock is a miniature of shapes in the Faroe Isles. 
 An ocean-current with ice-floats may sculpture rocks 
 into large copies of the Ottawa Island. On the toj) 
 of the cliff, the foundation of the new buildin«r is 
 (lug through beds of unstratified clay, which contain 
 many large striated Laurentian boulders. Where the 
 limestone rock beneath this boulder-elay was newly ex- 
 posed in a drain, it was not striated, liut apparently 
 water-worn. The striation of rocks is not universal, as 
 It would be if caused by a polar glacier ; but partial, as 
 
242 
 
 AN AMKHK'AN THAMl' 
 
 it would be if produced by ice-floats heavier than river- 
 ice, but similar in all otlier respects. 
 
 The water-line at Brockville, where the still river 
 or flowing lake forms an ice-bridge between Canada and 
 Yankeeland every year, is distinctly grooved. If the 
 lake were drained, the old water-level could be read on 
 a granite scale ; but the surface on which thin ice 
 works every year is coarse. It is neitlier polished nor 
 striated. A glaciated tor of quartz near the spot appears 
 to be made of sandstone, altered by the heat of wliin- 
 tlykes, or of the granite about it. ^Marks on it contrast 
 with marks made by river-ice, and prove that some 
 heavier engine sculptured the ship-like form of ^Montreal 
 Mountain, and the rocks in the street of Brockville. 
 
 Many of the colonists who now live at the bottom of 
 the old Canadian gulf are queer fish. Tt is very strange 
 to hear the fiimiliar accents of Norman French, and to 
 see crowds of old Frenchwomen in broad straw hats 
 craning over the edge of locks to sell apples and pears ; 
 screaming and chattering like their relatives over the 
 water in tiie market-place at Avranches, and scolding 
 like furies about 'sous.' Yoleur ! voleur ! voleur! rend 
 me les paires. In Hogarth's print of the gate at Calais, 
 a lot of okl tisli-fags are made like the skate which they 
 oiler for sale, and the old French-Canadian apple-women 
 
n river- 
 
 11 river 
 ada and 
 If the 
 read on 
 liin ice 
 lied nor 
 appears 
 f wliin- 
 :ontrast 
 it some 
 Fontreal 
 ille. 
 
 )ttoni of 
 strange 
 and to 
 nw hats 
 :1 pears ; 
 )ver the 
 scolding 
 ir ! rend 
 b Calais, 
 ich tliey 
 -women 
 
 gUKKli I'l.SH. 
 
 1^4: 
 
 
 were, if possible, stranger tish tiian they. The scene 
 rhanged when the l)oat was left for the car.s, and the 
 Irish element broke ont in a free liglit lictwc/n (hninkcn 
 lumberers. It was not the English Ijattle of lists and 
 fair play, nor was it Italian murder ; the fight was 
 a series of culls and kicks, like the ' knock-him-down 
 and-stamp-upon--him ' faction-tight of Ireland, with a 
 cross of French savatte and Scotch caution. It is told 
 that a Scotchman once mastered his f u; in a street tight, 
 and having done so held him. 'Let him up, you cow- 
 ard,' said th(i English crowd. ' U it had cost you as 
 much to get him down,' said the Scot, ' V(m would not 
 be so ready to let him u]).' Having floored his man, the 
 upper Canadian kicked him and pounded liim till it was 
 time to embark on a second boat. Amongst these rude 
 l)ony pike an Engli.sh maiden, uuih'r a bliu; umbrella, 
 selling tea and snowy bread and l)uttrr, with a broad 
 shady yellow .straw hiit and llowing ribbons above her 
 l)right curls, might have inspired Sir Joshua. For sweet 
 maidenly n^.odest beaut v, and fair rosv complexion, a 
 purer type of Anglo-Saxon beauty could not be found in 
 merry England. She was lissom as an eel, and fresh as 
 a trout. Close at hand was a picturesque brown ha.''^- 
 breed, with dark locks and a -vild loving eye, armed 
 with gun and powder-horn, bound for tlie backwoo.ls. 
 
244 
 
 AN AMKUrcAX TIJAMI 
 
 A stront' sulky stiliiio ferox of a man lie was — half 
 Indian, half habitant, French Celt and savaf^e. Then 
 came a well-known home (i,uure — the old Ilinldanddame, 
 with snowy cap and broad IHack ribbon, the taiian shawl 
 and short ^own, and the neat stron^i;' shoe and woollen 
 stockin<4' of the ilouri.shing farmer's wife. She had brought 
 her niece down to see the train for the first time. To 
 sec them and hear them was to think of herrings and 
 heather, and the smell of peat-reek and wet birches, far 
 away in Ariiyll. ITow stranae it -eemed to hear the 
 yery accent of Lome naturalized in a Canadian forest ! 
 She liyed in the strath, she said, close by, and she had 
 not been so far from home for many a day. Her speech 
 was Gaelic, and it is the common eyeryday s])eech of n 
 flourishing race of well-dressed proprietors, farmers, 
 and lal)ourers, who haye changed their sky — not their 
 natui-e. ' We had a ball here last week in the barn.' 
 said one of these Celts in broadcloth, whose twang be- 
 trayed him in the car ; 'and a better-looking set of lads 
 and lasses you would not find in all Canada. We kept it 
 up till gray daylight. We had the pipes and a fiddler, and 
 ]tlenty of good whisky; and a better-behaved, decenter 
 set of people there coidd not be. There was not vrtu 
 of them that was drunk.' In another place it was sug^- 
 uested long ago that Celts would never make sailors, 
 
< ONI l;.\HA.Mt (;(.»( il)S. 
 
 •J4ri 
 
 iH'cause the genius of the race hiy in fai-niing and ad- 
 venture on shore. 
 
 Here in Canada Highland emigrants Hourish. They 
 settle kindly to fanning, rejoice in a forest I'fe wliich 
 admits of a shot at the deer, make excellent lund)erers, 
 and in the backwoods earn large sums hy cute tradinii' 
 with wild Indians. Tf farmers must give ])lace to herds 
 on the Highland hills, it is better to send them here than 
 strive to drive them out of their element into the sea 
 after fish. As a (iaelic }iro\ -rb has it, ' The cat's delight* 
 is on the strand, but she will not no there to fetch it.' 
 The (iaelic region pass(?d, tlnie entiu's a mongrel, who 
 is neither tish nor llesh uuv good red herring, as it appears. 
 He is drunk as an owl, his speech is a jaigon of English 
 and French, with SOUK' novel ingredient inteiinixed : his 
 hair is woolly, his features most like those of a chim- 
 panzee, and his c(dour whitey-brown. As the midshij)- 
 man wrote in his log, under the head '^fanners and 
 Customs of the Natives' — This native 'has no m;inneis, 
 ;ind his customs are disgusting and o1)scene.' He is 
 supposed to bo a cross betwcM-n a slave and a slave- 
 driver, with a dash of the lledskin and habitant somehow 
 introduced. Then comes the lake-steanier, and from a 
 nondescrijjt crowd of everyday folk a group of Indian 
 
 * Fish. 
 
24<i 
 
 AN A.MKiMt'AN il.'AMI' 
 
 women wtiuid out in strong relief. Dark-sivinn<'d, <icirk- 
 eyecl, witli straight liair black as ni^ht, and graceful 
 figures (lra])e'1 iii Idue and russet hrown, tliey stand 
 alone in {\w crowd, nnalile to sjjcak the jargons of white 
 men. They avo out on the train]) with a store of em- 
 broidered m'ck-nacks which can be of no earthly use to 
 anybody, lait may tempi idle folk with more money than 
 brains. The nc.'it small i'c'ct of a i)ure breed come gliding 
 into the saloon, the .slender thoronghbretl liand presents 
 a coloured contrivance of bark and (piills, and a soft 
 musical voice suggc^sts 'Will you buy?' When night 
 comes they make their camp amongst the Ixjxes, roll 
 their neads and drape their hgures in some iiicturesque 
 gear, and lay them down to sleep on the boards in 
 graceful postures worthy of sculptor.^^' models. There is 
 no unseendy s[)rawling — there they rest with the native 
 grace of a healthy young savage, still as veiled ligures on 
 a bronze tond». ^\^len feeding-time comes, the figures 
 awake, the boxes o]»en, aird stores of wheatiMi bread 
 and ap[)le-i)ie appear and disa])pear with great decorum. 
 Old and young, the squaws are ]uctures, but they are 
 mute as iishes for want of a common tongue. N(jt so 
 the backwoodsmen bound tor home. Seated in ( lum]»S(»n 
 boxes and barrels, tlaiy gaze .silently first on the red-hot 
 sun. then at tiie red foxy sky, and then at tlie silver moon- 
 
I. 'lark- 
 ^n'acoful 
 ■f stand 
 )!' wliite 
 
 of eiu- 
 / use ti) 
 ley tliau 
 y <4liiliii<i 
 presents 
 d a soft 
 n nij^lit 
 jces, roll 
 ures(i^U6 
 jards in 
 Tliere is 
 e native 
 j;ures on 
 i fi^^ures 
 n bread 
 leeoruni. 
 :liev arc 
 
 N(jt so 
 nnipson 
 ; red-liot 
 fr nioon- 
 
 TIIE BATTLK <)V LIKE. 
 
 
 liglit on tlie calni lake ; liut wlion night has fairly eoine, 
 their deej) manly voiees awake, and there they sit hnd 
 chaiint Methodist hymns and forest melodies for houis. 
 
 How different from these natuial figures arc the 
 actors • n the stage ol society in large towns ! There the 
 life-drama is played out by kind, hospitable, well-bred 
 jteople ; by men and women who wtndd adorn any 
 station in any land ; but yeiy like well-bred, liospitabh', 
 kind peojile everywhere else. There also are ' fast young 
 ladies' and ' frisky nuxtrons,' jirudes and ' i»retty horse- 
 breakers;' careful matrons, mulls and nmflins; soldiers, 
 sail(jrs, tiidvers, tailors, apotliecaries, plougliboy.s, gentle- 
 men, iind thieves — all in active ])ursuit of each other, and 
 the ends which people like them pursue at home. They all 
 tight out the battle of life, like whales and shrimps, cod- 
 fish and caplin, off the Labrador. 
 
 The landscapes in which these figures ap])eared are 
 strongly m;u'ked. There is soj.'iething sti-angely weird- 
 like in the glimmering lustre of the bright tin church- 
 spires, shining with th(! rdlected glow of sunset against a 
 cold twilight sky. On the St. Lawrence, the foreground 
 IS clear smooth green water; the background, a line of 
 dark green firs, with a log-hut, or a big warehouse, or 
 a corn-field, or a white town, or a cloud of di;n smcjke. 
 ;t tin roof, or some such incident, tr. relieve the dead 
 
24S 
 
 AN AMEKICAN TKAMT. 
 
 llutue.ss of the lines. A rapid is uppioached, and the 
 banks begin tu heave and ndl like the water. The 
 vessel seems to accpiire new life, and speeds (jn like a 
 bird, while the niagniticent river rolls and tumbles like 
 the Iface of Alderney, or the flood in the Bay of rundy, 
 us wild and as w"de. 
 
 The J [i'i adi'd, the first picture rolls on again 
 like a rev. m. hi-; «'ircle of green water and fir trees, 
 passing continually, .»iit never ending. The marked 
 feature in every picture is vastness, clearness, and uni- 
 formity. There seems no limit to the country, no ])oint 
 from which to begin or end. The new incident is the 
 passing raft. Tho.se who have seen floats on the Ehine 
 or Danube may add up all they ever saw there in a 
 year to make one mental raft, and the sum will scarce 
 e(|ual one of many Canadian timber-lloats seen in a day. 
 it is an island of ^vood, Avith a large tloating population. 
 Theie are the log-huts, the tall spars for masts, the 
 axemen hacking and hewing timber as they go ; there 
 sit whole crews, working sweeps, and above all stands 
 the admiral or pilot commanding by signal, lie may 
 be some old Indian, wrapped in a builalo robe, still as 
 Nelson on his column in Trafalgar Sc^uare till the rapid 
 is near; then up goes the flag, and men and trees, wood 
 and waves, fiulit out tlieir battle with miglit and main ; 
 
J-r.MliEK. 
 
 24'J 
 
 .so 
 
 tlii-y luar, uiid struggle, and shout, till tliu raft is surd' 
 launched, or torn into little chips, which arc groat t rec- 
 ur large faggots of hi'. At (Quebec— the bourne of 
 many forests and the birthplace of so numy navies- 
 timber is gathered so as to cover some s(|uarc miles. 
 The road along the rivei'-side is paved with deals, the 
 footpatVis for miles around are like tl 
 offshoot led from the falls at Mont 
 
 u' road. An 
 
 niorenci woi 
 
 ks. tl 
 
 Hi 
 
 largest saw-mill in the world : and the .sol 
 
 e occupation of 
 
 the machinery is the making of planks, deu s . d ' tl 
 wood that is neither crookc.'d nor strain' ' 
 food for many .such mills, and for man* Vi'.st 
 at Quebec. The beach is laid with L,,; and shav 
 every creek is filled with spars and chip.,. Every 
 
 le 
 
 iiere is 
 
 o come. 
 
 mg.s, 
 
 man. 
 
 woman, and child, for three miles at least, seems to be 
 a carpenter, and fully employc.-il. Above this timber- 
 shore is the .steep fractured rock on which the fort 
 l)erclied at (Quebec. 
 
 IS 
 
 Landscajjes on the Ottawa ai-e mut'h tl 
 
 le same. 
 
 'J'l 
 
 le 
 
 Tl 
 
 water is brown and thick, instead of green and clear, 
 le river is far smaller and the banks .somewhat higher. 
 I'Ut the same endless ]ianorama of trees and water .seems 
 lo roll [)a.st the ship, as she paddles up (»r down. Ot- 
 
 tawa city is a marked feature. The landscape and th 
 hm'lding would be fine anvwhere. The banks nf i|, 
 
2*i 
 
 
 
 AN AMKIUCAN TKA.MP, 
 
 riviT an* low dill's, Iicmii into ItlufTs by small streuuis. 
 l-ails, Ibrty It'ct lii^li, niv. tbndly cunipanMl to Nia;4iira, ami 
 are in I'acl <!i'aii<l Jalls. Tlu.' nL'i<fliij(»uriii«' couiilrv swcU.-j 
 u]» into low, iollin,L,s jiiiioclad liills, somowliat like ilie 
 country ncai- Ascot and Wcllin^^ton Collc^^fc. On one of 
 the Muil's, abovo a river as wide and ns still as the 
 Thames at London, and with dark rollin^i hills and ibrcst- 
 l)Iains on cveiy sitle, the new Provincial i'arliamcnt 
 House is nrowint,' uj), a stately pile, worthy of iho I'liioii 
 whos(! interests are to be cared for within the walls. 
 
 Tt is little inferior to th(! palaei^ at W(.'stminster, and 
 the materials of which it is made are better and more 
 durable iJke the Capitol at Wasliin,u;ton, it stands near 
 the middle of the settled country, in a town which si-arce 
 exceeds an English villa^^e in commercial importance. The 
 railway scenery is like; that of the rivers, and the lakes are 
 like seas with the low American coast on the horizon. 
 
 About a. hundre(l years a_<:,'o, Ca})tain Carver travelled 
 throuL;h America, and of this region he wrote: — 'On the 
 north-west ]tarts of this lake (Ontario), and to the south- 
 east of Lake Huron, is a tribe of Indians called the ^lissi- 
 saug(\s, whose town is denominated Toronto, from the lake 
 on which it lies ; but they are not very numerous.'* 
 
 * Cavvi'i-'s Travi'ls thniii^'h the luttrior Pait^ ofXoith Anu-rioii. 
 Ill tlif Vf.irs 17()6, 17^7, ant! 1768, p. 172. 
 
CVI'l'AIN (AlCVKK. 
 
 '2ij\ 
 
 SiiK'i' these (lays yrcat ( Imii^^cs liavc lia[tj»('ii»'(l, and 
 one tliin;^' wliii-h strikfs a waiidi'iur isj, tliat the fuithir 
 west lio rr'Hvs tlie better thin^^s seem to ^j^row. St. Jolin's 
 is a l)iu' oilv lisli-uiavkct (Hi the hanks of Ma-'otlv (,'()ve. 
 Ihilit'ax, and St. dulin and I'oithtnd, are no nival sliakes. 
 Qiiehee is hclter, and hi^Her, and lieher, hut it is a dirty 
 old Freuch-lookiiiL; town, and the only Ix-Li'^ar seen in 
 Canada dweh tlieie. It is lair to add, tlial llie hei^uar 
 was an Irishwoman newly landeil. Montreal is a tar 
 liandsomer city, witli stone ehurehes, wide well-built 
 streets, and active commerce. Kin!jst<»n is a bri.dit 
 ^'ay lake-town, with \vl lite ships, forts and tisii-iiiarkets, 
 fruit and llowers, drums and lifts, and niilitaiy [larades. 
 lint Toronto lioasts a museum, a university, a uarri.son, 
 a review, shops worthy of (Jlasgow, banks, busses, 
 statues, garden.s, and railways, telegraphs, steamboats, 
 all the newest and best ]»ara])hernalia (jf a lieh llourish- 
 iu.i,^ new town. No wonder the jjroud sistei's ({Uarrelled 
 ahout \vho was to be (|ueen, and _ur(»\\le(l at the fa\(nir 
 iiostowed on the modest Cinderella Ottawa. But if the 
 • hief town (»f the scanty tribe of Missi.sauucs has "rown 
 to be Toronto in a hundi-ed years, the chief town of a 
 tribe of !>ritish colonies inav urow a bodv to lit the hi'' 
 head which is sproutinj,' at ()tta\\a. 
 
 If colonial senatorial M.T. P. brains oid\'jjro\\ to the 
 

 AN AMliHlCAN TKAMP 
 
 I»ioj)()rti(>n8 oi' the ((ilony and colonial Iniiltliiii^s, wliat 
 j) rod i;,M OILS wisdom and ^^n^fantic intellect will lloiuish 
 on tlii.s ancient sca-liottoin, lii-twccn C^)ncl)cc and l-akc 
 Huron! Tiiry have the svminithics of a countryman 
 who (iwes Ihcni a day in harvest, ior many a j^'ood turn 
 douf in a shoi't time. ISTay the provinces unite and 
 flourish, and take warning' I'rom their neighb(;urs. Kven 
 whales eonit' to ^riid' . sometimes. 
 
 The <;uttin;4 u|»-stairs i'rom Toronto to Nir^^ara is 
 sijon and easily accomjdished. At Hamilton, a red-coated 
 ser^'cant, armed with th(! traditional rattan, was keep- 
 in^f l^uard over r)ritish interests. It s])oke well for the 
 service, when one man was set to stop all deserters, and 
 even lie seemed to have nothin;^ to do. I'.ehind the 
 station at Hamilton is a ureeu terrace, broken down hv 
 a sand-i)it. Near the toj) are beds of sand so packed as 
 
 to indicate water tlowinLi towards the south. 
 
 Th 
 
 country between Hamilton and Xia^^ara is rich, tlat. 
 cleared, and well cultivated. It is a raised plateau: the 
 ed^a> of it is near the lake shore ; the other side of the 
 step is beyond ("hica<4o. Captain (.'arver, a hundicd 
 years aj^o, couhl lind nothing new to say about Nia;^ara 
 Falls, and his exam])le is worthy of imitation. It is now 
 a cockney I'csort f(»r all the world, and one of tiie be>;t 
 
 Morth visitniij;. ' >ne nistitutmn has uiti \et lu en >iti 
 
A I.ASlir.l; |»\T(|. 
 
 '2'j^ 
 
 cit'iitlypriiised. A load, liko a small mill- 
 sninll Itiirii i'lnin tlu; hig river tliroiml 
 kind nf stiniiiii'i'-liousi'. \W i 
 of the rapids oiilsidc is Inriicd 1 
 
 ra<'o. carries a 
 
 I a Ljanlcii jiasl a 
 
 aisiiiM- jt slmce a iiiiniaturo 
 
 oosf in a sinuuv woddcn 
 
 li'».\, and those m-Iio 1(iv(> a Iiearlv i 
 
 iii)iiiin<r sot-lo with a 
 
 stron.u' fresli (>i)i)onent, niav net in(,, tlic 1 
 
 )0 
 
 X and fi''lit 
 
 r()n<r 
 
 the fall. Then; is a mpe to hold on l,y, ami a st 
 man may strnu'.uli' t.. the npper end. When there lies!) 
 and mn.seles .soeni to flntterand (luiver against the liones. 
 like fni'led sails against a .ship's mast ; and if the hands 
 slip their ^rip, away u„l's the man, l.ody and hones, ♦ 
 the other end. 
 
 A l.reather of this kind calls np a wolfish api)etito, 
 
 lonrinLi- hotels. Then; 
 
 o 
 
 whicli can he satisfied at the nei,^hl 
 
 trihes of coloured gentlemen mini.ster to tl 
 
 crowd, which Hows in and out. 
 tlie river. 
 
 le motley 
 comes and 'foes, like 
 
 Tf any one wi.slies to study a crowd, his best i)L 
 
 m IS 
 
 to lay a trap for conversation, and hold his tonnuc till 
 the hait is swallowed. 
 
 One of the best baits for a tourist 
 There is something in drawing whicl 
 
 is a sketch-book. 
 1 invariablv draws 
 
 all the neighbourhood to stare over the draught 
 shoulder; and if he is willing to hear 1 
 
 sman .s 
 
 le mav learn a 
 
 srrcat deal from his critic 
 
254 
 
 AN AMEUIGAN TUAMl'. 
 
 ' E iiiolto bello questo (jUJidru, u inolto i)iu bcUo del 
 origiiicalc,' ^'>ud an Kiigli.sh lady to an artist at Jionic ; 
 and tlie same good-liunioiircd spirit is always u])|)t'rnH)st 
 v/lien |)('(»i)l(! arc anuisud. 
 
 Seated on a bencli on Goat Island, with pencil and 
 book, making danbs and enjoying the weathei-, was 
 pleasant occupation ; and the passing crowd who 
 stoppcMl to criticise were as good as a play. Dne pale 
 dark-eyed Spaniard, who took tla; bait greedily, preferred 
 to .onverse in French, and got ([uite excited, llr told 
 his own history. lie was a surgeon ; and, anxious to 
 study his profession, he had joined tlic Northern aniii<s 
 * en amateur.' His lualtli gave wav, and lie hiid been 
 sent to recruit at Niagara. 
 
 ' Monsieur,' he said, waving liis arm like CJavazzi, or 
 u immp-handle, 'nous avons eu dcs operations superbes 
 — su-i)erl)es, Monsieur, sujterbcs. Un seul liomme avnit 
 seize blessures, ligurez-vous, ^m Monsieur, seize blessures ! 
 Ah, c etait magnifique. Yes, sir, it was. Seize blessures 
 superbes, il etait criblc. Hon j'»ur, Monsieur, an }jlui>ir 
 de vous re voir.' 
 
 1 woidd almost as soon meet death on his pale 
 ch*" ,^r {)« that eidhusiast ; but he represented the 
 class whose work now goes liopping about in Yankee 
 towns. 
 
TIIF AMKRICAN I'K.i »IM.!:. 
 
 25;", 
 
 Ho del 
 
 Ilninc ; 
 cnnost 
 
 cil and 
 ■r, was 
 d wlio 
 i\v pale 
 •(.JV'vn'd 
 Ic told 
 ions to 
 arinifs 
 id been 
 
 ,'azzi, or 
 iiipovbps 
 ne avait 
 
 essurt'S ! 
 dessurcs 
 u ]daisii 
 
 his pale 
 
 lied tli( 
 
 Yankee 
 
 To him succeeded a cou],le newly married, and 
 spoonin^ir desi)erate]y ; a party from tlic uttermost end 
 of America doing tlie lions, a Californian. a liritish 
 officer, a university man, a lot of Xew Yorkers, some 
 shopkeepers, Canadian farmers, wounded s(ddiei-.s ; hut 
 the stock stage Yaidvce never came. The majority 
 s])oke through their noses, and reckoned ; hut they were 
 civil, quiet, h(diday Iblks, exceedingly like their class 
 at h(»me. 
 
 Having utterly failed to discover tliis antediluvian, 
 set oir scratch-hunting and had several good finds, 
 liehind Niagara House a hit of the rock-suiface was 
 lately cleared ui» to the verge of the cliff which makes 
 the American side oi' the river. It is ground, polished, 
 striated, and grooved in many directions. Siuall 
 remnants of very hard sand and clay are lelt in some of 
 the hollows. The following bearings were got within a 
 space of three sheets of fool.scaji :— N. f/ K, N. 10" R, 
 
 N. :^(r K., X :\rr K., x. l.v k. 
 
 It is plain that the ice that had made this uncertain 
 ■iiid di'vious s]ioor was moving southwards and west- 
 wards u]>-stream towards (ioat Island, r.ullalo, T.ake 
 Krie, and Chicago; and no glacier could well move in so 
 many o./ections at once. Near the end of the Siisj)en 
 '^loF! Fhidge is a very large boulder of ibreign rock 
 
') ~ t 
 
 AN AMKRHAN lltAMI'. 
 
 jKTchi'd about GOO feet above the sea, nearly level with 
 siiiiilai' l)li)( ks j)irclic(l on Moiitvetil Mountain. While 
 eontenijtlatin^ the stDUe. and wnndci'in;^ how it ^^lA 
 there, a ncit;hbourin_u' eotta^cr ealled out a (ladie .>aluta- 
 tion. r>y some rreeiiiasonrv he h.id found out a country- 
 man, and it" we had only been I'reneh, we would Irive 
 embraced then and there. I'lif man and liis wile eanif 
 from tlie Highlands to Canada, workeil uji beyond 
 Toi'oiito, and [f(\i to the States at last. Their son W'lit 
 to the wars, and they lost him ; and now they are s])en(l- 
 in^ their lives in a cottage very like a Highland bothy. 
 
 no better olT than thev were at hom 
 
 ('. 
 
 Tl 
 
 very dear 
 
 tl 
 
 lev sail 
 
 Suiee the war evervtliiii','' is 
 
 us pi 
 th 
 
 iU3e IS 
 
 •Id. 
 
 \. 
 
 raised, and we are liy our.stdves m this worh 
 their proverb says, ' y\r\\ nay meet, though hills will 
 not ; ' and so we nu't and jiartecl beside a wandering 
 }>loek at the end of Niagara Uridge. 
 
 .\t the ' \\'hirl|»ool,' shells are tbinid in a IxmI of gravel 
 whi(di is 30<) fct't above the ]>resent level of the liver. 
 A great many of them were ])ieked out of a bank, 
 newly cut in making a walk. They av«^ fresh-water 
 shells, like shells now living in neighhoui'ing rivers anil 
 lakes. A native, who is a sportsman addicted to suiter- 
 
 ficial geology, said that shells and striated rocks abounded 
 tliroiighout tliis district. On Luna Island, at the edge 
 
ICE-MARKS AT NIAUARA. 
 
 257 
 
 (1 witli 
 \Vliil»' 
 it ,!j;<jt, 
 .saint ii- 
 oiiiitry- 
 la liav.' 
 ft' can It' 
 
 llCVdll'l 
 
 mi \\ 'lit 
 
 p S])t'll'l- 
 
 1 iM.thy, 
 ])la(;t' i^ 
 tliin : is 
 
 i(i; As 
 
 ills Nvill 
 niU'viii;^ 
 
 .1 uvavil 
 lie liviT. 
 a bank, 
 si I -water 
 vers an<l 
 t(i sup«'i'- 
 ibdnndf'l 
 tlio o']''e 
 
 of tlio fall, is a large boulder of ,u;iieiss. The roek- 
 surfaee, ^vitllin a foot of the fall and in the water, was 
 cnn^fully examined for rerent marks of river-iee ; but 
 there were none, thongli iee is eaiTicil over the falls 
 every winter. 
 
 As (everybody knows. Goat Island is in the middle of 
 the river ; at one end it is nearly level with the water, the 
 other en<l is a elifl* capped witli drift. It is a bit of tlie 
 country hewn out by the river, and left stand in<f. At 
 the upper end, a corner of rock has been newly exposed. 
 It is jtolished like the top of the cliff beyond the o'ulf 
 inndt' by llie fall, and in a similar dirrction, X. L'."* I''.., 
 N and X. 2;")" W., magnetic, Vsiihin thf comjiass of a 
 sheet of pa[»er. At some shf)rt distance above the rock 
 h a iicd of tine red sand, disposed in layers, dipjiiii'.;- 1 .")'^ 
 S.K. uj)-" ream, rjioii tlu.' tlat surface of tlii.s bt'd rest tln'ce 
 feet of gi'avi'l, coar.se sand, and clay, containiuLC scratclu'd 
 .stones. These beds are disposed iiorizontally, and iiidi- 
 rnti' still water. U])on these rest Hat layers of still' (day, 
 conlainiuij scratched stones, manv of which are 'azoi(3' 
 rocks. Above these, near the surface, arc bed.s (^f graved 
 containing recent fresh-w:tt"r shells, and these dip X.lv 
 down-stream. In the talus, shells, bones, and othei- 
 things were mingled. The translation seems to be — 1st, 
 That when the rock was scratidied, it was under water. 
 
258 
 
 AN AMERICAN TRA.MI". 
 
 wliicli inuvecl towards Lake Erie, laden with lieavy ice, 
 lioiildcrs, and sand. 
 
 2d, Tliat after a time the water ceased to flow in that 
 direction, Imt flattened tlie sand-Led, and overlaid it 
 with <.;Tavel and clay. 
 
 '»d. That I'resh water began to ilow towards Quebec, 
 and rearranges gravel, clay, and boulders. 
 
 ir the sea were now G5(l I'eet deeper it niigh^ fl'^w 
 from S[)itzbergen ])ast Quebec and over Chicago into 
 the (lulf of Mexico. The TJoat Island document seems 
 to rei'ord that it did. 
 
 Having fmislKMl tht- scratch-hunt, went sti< •: inuit- 
 i'^'/ in the woods, and gathenMl u g;jo<ily jii/lcd of 
 cudgels, esjH'cially one for the original ' ' Vandercr.' 
 They were all duly liii[)ti/,(Ml in the r''"( ' /m . .er 'lie 
 edge of tht' fall. Sir C. Lyell hi.s vM'd tliis fall in 
 measun; geological u:>v', umI it is a chronometer if it> 
 rate of going w av kiso^vn. he watt-r in felling drives 
 the wind, antl the wind in return drives the spray ; so thai 
 a c(»nstant whirlwind whirls like a mill-wheel b. hind 
 the gi'cen curtain of Niagara. ( )ne of the things to do is 
 to go under the fall, and when there it is scarci'ly jiossihlc 
 to see anything for the storm. l»ut by dint of feeling 
 and iilinking, it is jKtssible to make out tiiat the clilf is 
 wt»rn into a hollow curve ) bv this revohing wheel. 
 
UKIIINI) I'lIK lAI,!-. 
 
 1\50 
 
 •avy ICC, 
 
 V in tliiil 
 crlaid it 
 
 QiU'bec, 
 
 iy}\{ il('\V 
 :ngo illtn 
 111 sci'ins 
 
 ick iiunt- 
 .riiiiiil <ij' 
 .'aniU'i't'V.' 
 
 ..sVt'l" till' 
 
 iS lull t.. 
 ■t(T if its 
 ii<,^ drives 
 r ; so til, it 
 el Ir.liillil 
 n's to do is 
 y possildc 
 of tei'linu 
 li(^ clilf is 
 
 wheel. 
 
 Die lorcc nt'aii ocouii-wavo i.s at work, and it under 
 iiM"nes the cl'll'. In winter, ice \\,r]u< in the ehiiiKs, and 
 lianas in festoons I'loni every clill' ;ind tree. Where it 
 loiins it is a M'ed<re, \vliere it ]ian.<;s it i,^ a wei.i-lit. The 
 lock l.ehind the lail is sliattered like shale in a JVost, so 
 that hits can he i.iekeil out with the linevrs. The ick 
 in the cliUs elsewhere is cracked hori/oiitally and ver- 
 tically. Water and ire ti.uethcr split nlf .slice-, (.f lock, 
 and these fall and hreak, and are fallen uiM»n and fuilher 
 hrokeii by all the power of this watei-haniiuer. A pile 
 of fallen (diir is under Tei'a])in Tower. Whi'U the sun 
 shines the cairn ol' stones may he seen thi'nu-h the spr.iw 
 The deep water in the Ilorse-shoe j-all is then eiu.'rald- 
 .uivcn ; the shallower water and foam next (h.at Maud 
 tells |mrj)le aeainst the rrreon. and the wet hunit si.nna 
 >ton.'s diine throuf^di the i)urple ha/.e. The pu.] h, low 
 lu'aves like a uiven sea after a storm in a ha.. With 
 :dl these water-])owers, this jairple aml^'reen en_<,dne iMts 
 hack into the land, n«.t -radually, hut hy 11' md starts. 
 It has eaten from the step near I.akeOnt,. , and it will 
 
 •/oes on 
 
 hurrou- up to iUillalo and drain the lake- t it 
 
 Tin; St. Lawrence is a hi-.t^cr stream, l)ni so lar it I 
 
 scarcely duj,' a trench hi- eiiouL^h t) ho i the water. 
 
 las 
 
 Tl 
 
 ic river Nia.irara is an older stream than it-, d, 
 
 scendant the jiver St, I, 
 
 iwreiice ; hecau e it has d 
 
 oie 
 
LMiU 
 
 AN AMKHICAN TKAMI'. 
 
 ludiv work with It-ss jiuwci', but tlie slicll jjickcd uiit ol' 
 tlic bank al)()V(! Ilic wlsirljxjol is (ddcr tliaii citlicr. 
 
 At Niatfara tliti ice-spodr iioiiitcd to BulValo ; so to 
 JiUlTalo we went ou llic L'»'>tli, after sjK'iKliiij^ tlireu 
 ideasaiit davs in dawdKim and sauiiteiiiiLi about tlio 
 falls. 
 
 At liuH'alo, Lake Krio i.s GG-i feet above therea. Tip- 
 town is l)iiiit on a jdain of sand paek(;d in lieds wliieli 
 diji 15" S.K in the Inundation of a new house in Main 
 Stivct. At l."0 fi't't above the lake, 714 feet id)ove tbc; sea, 
 aiid tlierefore lii;;lier than jiait of the wat<'rsbed of the 
 St. Lawjvnee l)asiii, on tbe lii^diest ground near the 
 town, arr lar^c boulders of gneiss, gray crystalline ([uartz, 
 ditto with black crystals, ;ind other hard ibreiun rocks. 
 Th r(»ck of tlie countr. is tiark limestone of i.owcr 
 Silurian age. At ' lilackroek,' near the railway, a siii- 
 face is cleared of drift in a tjuarry. The; liniestont? con- 
 tains bar»l nodules of eliert {'), wliicli will not yield to 
 the knile, and liave icsisUil the wearing i)ower which 
 ground the rock. They nro bn»ken, not ground. Macli 
 nodule is a 'cra<r' ^vith a limestone 'tail.' From this 
 
 sha]ie it is easy to make out tlic direct i( 
 
 )n in w 
 
 hicl 
 
 1 lee 
 
 moved — the head is up stream, the tail down. The ice 
 which made this ro<>k-S( idpture weut towards Toledo, up 
 Lake Krie. i Mi three slieets of icijier the following cross 
 
 
rtKIFT AT lUFlAlJ). 
 
 2r,i 
 
 kcd out 'it 
 
 iilo ; so to 
 Vnv^ thi'OL' 
 iiboul tlic 
 
 e .'-.(.'ii. 'Ill'' 
 )cds wliicli 
 so in Main 
 Dve tho s(!ii, 
 ^licd ol' the 
 
 I near tlu' 
 line (iuaitz, 
 rcijjin iTx.'l;?*. 
 
 (• of LoNVi'l 
 
 Wiiv, u sur- 
 icstont' cdii- 
 lot yii'ltl to 
 lowi'i' \vliiili 
 nnd. l''iicli 
 From this 
 
 II \vhirh i't' 
 II. Tho i«>' 
 sTohMo, lip 
 Inwiu'j cross 
 
 hcarin<,'s wore f^ot within a lew ynnU :— N. 25" !•:., X. liO" 
 K., N. 4o'^ K. (niagneticj. 
 
 I>e.>ide this j^round scored surface with cross iiiark- 
 inj^s are small pot-holes, like those which aiv louiid in 
 all limestone rocks over which water Hows. 'I"hc sur- 
 face is i)oth icr-groiuid and water-worn, and it is .hi. ted 
 as ifhy blows. On il,e i'(tek are bc(ls, of whidi sect ions 
 lire n-ot ill railway cuttings and at the (luari'ies. The 
 surface-beds are about thirty or Ibrty feet thick, and con- 
 sist of stiff reddish clay, eoutainini,' small aii-iilar .-tours, 
 wa'eT-woiii stones, and lar.ue blocks of a/nic rock, 
 s(M'atche<l and Ihiely p<dish(.'d. Amonnst these were 
 niiea-sehist, like ^Fount Washinj^loii j.ick ; gneiss ; 
 <inart/, highly crystalliiu; and trani. rent ; and many 
 other spe. iniens of a/(tic i-ocks. In some places the- 
 clay is largely mingled with stones, in others nearly 
 pure. Xo stratification could be made out ; but no 
 clean section was got, for rain had washed clav down the 
 
 iiaiiks. 
 
 onie broken sludls were found, but tl 
 
 lev mav 
 
 have been snail-shells from tiie toj). Tried piteliiii" 
 stones d..wn upon the loek, and found that dints made 
 
 ty throwing a stone towards th 
 
 e south-W(;st resembled 
 "Id dints. That niloineter. .Montreal Mountain, will not 
 fithom depths thus recorded at lUitl'.ili. ; but it the sea 
 Weiv here, the seaway Would be ojieii to the (iull of 
 
•>(•.•) 
 
 \N A Mi; UK AN THAMI' 
 
 Mexico, iiiid I lie I'lck-sculptvUL' st'c'ins to ivcoiil lliiil tlu' 
 Anlir ('ui'iL'iil jtasscii tliis way. 
 
 Ha hcavci's dam were coiistnictL'd licrc (A' ii tiiiiln r 
 rait, and ciiou^li ol" Imy und stoiuis and bnuldcr-clay tn 
 make a iiioiind rise Id'ty loct ultovu tlu' water I'or a i[uaitei 
 (if aiiiili', a deluge would result. 'I'lie river eseajx"; in 
 
 lii' li iiiiulit Iju corked. A rise oT liltv 
 
 a ro(k-<rroo\'e, w 
 
 1'(!et at Lake I'.rie would flood all tin,' upper lake.s, ant! 
 would be fell in seven of tlu' Western States, and in 
 ( 'anada. Inless a noteli somewhere I'lse is lower than 
 lil'ty leet, the waste would esea])e near ('lnoa<fo, Hood tiic 
 ^^i8sissi5•l•i, and ilrain the St. Lawrence. In the eve-nt 
 
 ( I 
 
 f a war, a IV.ilValo dam wouhl he worth consideration. 
 
 Newfoundland heavers have done «i;reater works in ]i:o- 
 portion to 1 heir size. 'I'he dam would do moie liarm than 
 all the Liuns that ever were niad(! ; and the work to he 
 
 • lone IS less i>y lar than many a Duteh dam-dyke ni 
 Holland. 
 
 hesecudin^ from these heij.^hts, went seekini; for 
 shells on the hcach ; and haviu}.,' gathenid a store e.\- 
 aetly likn llione wliieh were found above the whirlpoul 
 at Niagara, went to a i)irhire-gidlery and the play. Tin 
 i^alleiN eoiilaineil one e.xeellent picture of a scene in tlu 
 liock) .\b)unlains. ,\ vounu damsel opposite to it 
 fainted, but wa-^ revived with a glass of water. Sle 
 
A I>A.M-1)YKK. 
 
 liJ')!} 
 
 thill til.' 
 
 11 tiiiiliir 
 r-clny U> 
 I quiivtci 
 ca]i('s ill 
 • ul' iil'lv 
 ikc'S, and 
 s, aii<l ill 
 wer than 
 tloodthr 
 lie cvt'iit 
 iduratioii. 
 ;s in I'l"- 
 arni than 
 (»ik to be 
 i-dvk<' ill 
 
 t'kin^U It'V 
 I stiiio cx- 
 whiiliHtol 
 
 ilay. The 
 enc in tl>'' 
 isilr to It 
 itcv. Slu' 
 
 could not have paid the artist a better coiiiplinient. 
 The jday was a performance of poses pla.stiques, ni^^'t-r 
 melodies, comic dances, and melancholy nonsense. The 
 audience smoked and drank beer, and l)esto\veil their 
 applause on patriotic s.mgs and sentiments. Most of 
 tht'iii were soldiers or reer\iits. A couple of liritishers 
 wouM have heard sometliin<' to their disadvantaiie if 
 there had been any popular notion of war, but they 
 liranl nothing of the sort. They smoke(l and swigged, 
 and clapped their hands like the rest, and never fflt 
 a passing wish to build the beaver's dam-dyke at 
 lUiMalo. 
 
 All the central plain of America was now ojx'H to 
 choose a route, [f the sea were level with the bouldiTS 
 on the hill at iUirfalo, icr-ral'ts might lloat south-west. 
 Till' spoor at I)lackroek |iointi*d south and wi'st ; so places 
 welt' taken for ('hieago and the lij> of the St. Lawrence 
 basin, to sei> what could b(> seen there. 
 
 r.iilliilu tn Krif 
 Krit' l<» C'lt'ViiliUKl 
 ('k'voland to Tolt'dn . 
 ThIimIii tn Cliicago 
 
 Total . 
 
 88 iiiilfM. 
 
 95 „ 
 112 „ 
 247 .. 
 
 r)42 
 
 Tlu' disimire is attoui opial to a drive from London 
 b> Al»erdee!i, which in iMigland is done in ciohtern 
 
264 
 
 AN AMEKICAN TKAMi'. 
 
 luuirs. Tlie tiivit 2'J5 milt-.'^ skirl Lake Krie, the next 
 staj^'c; i»UM»i'a umt the isthimi.s t»f Miehi^aii, ami tin.* 
 fxtrt'inu points aii' at ojtpositc i-iidy of a ^Tcat .silver 
 Htar of inland seas, and within a few ft'i-l ol' the banie 
 Icvfl. 
 
C'lIAl'TKK XIII. 
 
 bl'FFALu TO Tin: WATKiiSHKlj. 
 
 Fridai/, Septnnhcr 27.— Very fine bright Iiot <lay. 
 Tii(,' amiitrv rich and well cultiviitetl ; grt-en lieMs and 
 tine njasses t.f hard-wuod .scattered about likf planta- 
 tions in the richest and best imrts of Kii^r|and. Th(,' 
 soil appears to be a thin bed of drill eveidy sj^read over 
 the wliole rolling country. The rock-tbundation shows 
 here and there, anil consists of . ■shales and .slates, which 
 lire weathered ^,■here exposed. A few sections are .seen 
 ui the banks of rivers, but the rivers hereabouts have 
 Mot dug far into the rock, though it is easily wi-athered 
 iiud worn. According U) American geological slan<', this 
 is tile 'Ciieiuung' formation; according to the original 
 Kjiglish slang, it is ' Devonian.' At all events it is some- 
 thing conspicuously dillerent from rocks in ('anaila and 
 Labrador. Boulders near the way-side are large, and 
 where gathered from liehls abuntlant. Tiiey are chielly 
 luunded, striated, polished, or weathered blocks of 
 'a/oir' rock. The prevailing direction (.f the wiml is 
 
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 Photographic 
 
 Sciences 
 
 Corporation 
 
 23 WEST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 
 
 (716) 872-4503 
 
200 
 
 AN AMEJUCAN TRAMP. 
 
 })lainly maikcd by trees at Buffalo, and along the shore 
 of Lake Jlrie it is S.W. If currents of wind thus keej) 
 a gener.'il direction in passing over these plains, currents 
 of water would jirobably hold to their prevailing direc- 
 tion if the plains were sunk low enough to let them 
 l)ass. The Arctic Current Hows from N.E. to JS.AV. as far 
 as it can. l*robably the Arctic Current carried the 
 Ijoulders to hit. 42'^ at least : 42° is near one northern 
 edge of the Gulf Stream in January and February now ; 
 and plenty of ice-floats aie working still farther south 
 along the xVtlantic coast. 
 
 Towards the upper end of the lake a few low hills, 
 from 200 to 300 feet high, are senn to the left, or 
 towards the Alleghanies. Amongst them are the 
 famous oil regions, where fortunes are made by boring 
 a hole and sitting still. It is narrated that country 
 damsels in these regions have grown so proud of their 
 oily greenbacks that they scorn their former admirers. 
 ' Vou needn't come bobbin' around here, I reckon ; dad 's 
 struck ile.' 
 
 Such is the way of the N\orld. One of a pair goes 
 down or up, and the uppermost nose turns snub, and 
 aims up at the stars above it. 
 
 F>esides oil, this country yields wine, and fatness in 
 tlie form of j)ig,s and Itnlldcks. Long trains full of 
 
TKN MINUTES TO DINK. 
 
 267 
 
 he shore 
 lus kee}> 
 currents 
 ig direc- 
 ,et them 
 X. as far 
 ried the 
 northern 
 try now ; 
 er soiitli 
 
 ow hills, 
 
 ! left, or 
 are the 
 
 »y boring 
 country 
 of their 
 
 admirers. 
 
 n ; dad's 
 
 pair goes 
 iiul), and 
 
 ixtness in 
 ; full of 
 
 corpulent eieatures, grunting and lowing, quarrelling 
 and S(iuealing, at the tail of an equally noisy eugino, 
 w(-re shunted to let us pass. Boulders, pork, and beef, 
 are abundant near Buffalo. Lake Erie is in a very well 
 lined ruck-basin. And 'that's so, Sin,' as the natives 
 say. 
 
 On this day's tramp we found out why British 
 tourists talk so much about Yankee haste in dinin^r. 
 Arrived at a country station, it was somehow commu- 
 nicated to us that we stopped ten minutes to feed ; 
 and by watching the crowd and a big bell we found 
 out wliere to go. Some hundreds of hungry mortals 
 clustered round a lot of small tables in a large wooden 
 room, and a corresponding number of country damsels 
 —whose ' dads hadn't struck ile,' it is to be presumed 
 —were condescending enough to wait. There was a 
 decorous pause to get a fair start, and then there was a 
 rush upon the dinner. Everyone t(jok his own line, and 
 \vent straight ahead. It was like the old mail-coach 
 dinner, which many are old enough to remember, but 
 the pace was htted to the railway cars. An old story 
 tells how a famous Scotch judge once travelled with 
 some reverend Scotchmen, and by dint of a white 
 choker passed himself off for one of the same cloth. 
 They had ten minutes to dine at some country inn near 
 
268 
 
 AN AMERICAN TRAMP. 
 
 the Kirk of Shotts. The padres were hungry ; the 
 Scotcli lawyer was sharp-witted, and though sharp-set, 
 he was going to dine at a country house hard by. ' My 
 brethren/ he said, ' let us ask a blessing.' Putting on 
 liis best judicial solenni face — which could look very 
 solemn when tlie owner chose — the sham parson asked 
 a blessing, and continued to ask it till the coacliman 
 blew his horn. Here, on the shores of Lake Erie, no 
 blessing was asked, but the signal given by one of the 
 damsels was followed by a vigorous attack upon ex- 
 cellent beef, potatoes, green corn, apple-pie, and other 
 smoking delicacies. It is always disagreeable to be 
 beaten at anything by anyljody ; nature had been kind 
 in the matter of teeth, and she abhors a vacuum ; we 
 said nothing, but we did all we could. Boasting may 
 be forgiven for once — we two Britishers rose first from 
 table, and we reckon we were ' crowded,' as a dis- 
 tinguished lady said to her hostess after dinner. 
 
 While smoking the pipe of peace in the cars after this 
 rapid act, a couple of gentlemen with note-books ^valked 
 up and asked whether we would vote for Lincoln or 
 jM'Clellan. Hurrah ! No one knew us to be foreigners. ' I 
 haven't got a vote.' ' How ?' exclaimed the teller who was 
 taking the sense of the meeting in the cars — ' How V It 
 was evident that he thought something must be wrong • 
 
A\ ELKCTION '. STRAW.' 
 
 26y 
 
 ry ; the 
 harp-set, 
 y. 'My 
 itting on 
 lok very 
 )n asked 
 3achmau 
 Erie, no 
 e of tlie 
 pon ex- 
 id other 
 le to be 
 en kind 
 UHi ; we 
 ng may 
 rat from 
 a dis- 
 
 tfterthis 
 1 ""A'alked 
 icoln or 
 ners. ' I 
 ,v]io wa.s 
 ^v V It 
 
 3 wrong ■* 
 
 about agrown m.-'nwitliout avote. 'I'm a Britisher,' I said. 
 ' Wal, stranger, if you had a vote, which would y,.u vote 
 for ?' ' Xeither; 1 said. ' I should only put your num- 
 bers wrong by voting ; so go along, and let us hear the 
 result.' Away they went, acting all the formalities of a 
 real election, and when they had finished one car they 
 walked through to the next, and so on to the guards' 
 box and the engine. The result Nvas a majority for 
 M'Clellan. This was the first of many similar elections, 
 and the only one that went for Georg.3 B. ; so the 
 probable result of the big election came to lie pretty 
 well known to a traveller long before the event came off. 
 Many of our fellow-passengers this day were young 
 men but old soldiers. One, who had seen nmcli service 
 and was minus a leg, explained that he would as soon 
 shoot a r.eb as a coon ; but on being further interro- 
 gated, the witness declared that the ' Oraybacks' fought 
 well. * We'll whip them,' he said ; « we've got to do It ; 
 and as we are the strongest, we'll whip them at last! 
 but it will take us a long time to do it, I reckon. The 
 Eebs fight well-yes, sir, that's so.' And then came a 
 long string of Yankee expletives which are unfit to 
 be recorded. 
 
 A Cincinnati man, the last and not the least 
 plucky of the arctic explorers, records tliat an 
 
270 
 
 AN AMKJIU AN TKA.MP. 
 
 Esquimaux Avoiiuiu iviuarked to liini that Ameriiaii 
 wlialoi's swear much more than Englisli ; nucl ^Ir, C. F. 
 Ifall records that he bhislicd \\)V his country. At tlic 
 famous fire-engine contest, held at the Crystal Palace," in 
 London, it was remarked that tlie Xew Yorkers, anIio 
 were beaten, * cussed ' so as to frighten tlie foe. It is t(^ld 
 tliat two wicked old Iligldanders once swore a match, 
 and the curse which won is recorded. A Highland 
 keeper once got his foot jammed l)etween two hig stones, 
 and cussed awful. AVlien he was extricated, a pawky 
 boatman quietly obstirved, 'I'm sure Hughy swore tli<" 
 worth of a new leg.' Tlie young soldier who had lost 
 his les swore ten times as much as lluuhy, without the 
 provM.)cation ; his cusses would have beaten the winnei' 
 of the match out of time, the firemen and whalers ; 
 perhaps a Billingsgate fishwife might have matched 
 him, but out of the States 1 never met his match at 
 cussing. There is a perverted ingenuity, an invention 
 de iiiecliancete, al)out American blasphemy, that would 
 be absurd if it were not disgusting. Swearing is an 
 obsolete English vice, still flourishing in an old English 
 colony. It is unfashionable, ill-mannered, senseless, 
 stupid, and wicked ; but it is not confined to the 'lower 
 classes,' if there be any classes in a republic which will 
 not admit a first-class car. 
 
 
A DOUBLE-DKDDED KOOM. 
 
 271 
 
 LiiR'viiaii 
 Mr. C. F. 
 
 At tlic 
 ['iilaci,' ill 
 :crs, Avlio 
 Tt is told 
 •d luatcli, 
 Tiglilaud 
 L<^f stones, 
 a pa\\k>- 
 wore tlie 
 had lost 
 diout the 
 e winiiei' 
 whalers ; 
 matched 
 natch at 
 invention 
 at would 
 no' is an 
 I Eno'lish 
 senseless, 
 le 'lower 
 hieli will 
 
 
 At ni-ht we had a ronoh time at Toledo. All the 
 iiotels were lull. At the Station Hotel crowds were 
 sitting about a largo hall (,n benches. sl,>e],ing, talking, 
 smoking, chewing, spitting drowsily, an<l waiting foi- 
 Ijcds or trains. By favour M-e were i.roniised the first 
 vacant room. 'Is it a double-bedded room?' said the 
 British lion. 'Well, I reckon there's a double bed in 
 it; said the clerk ; and there wer*,' two or thre.> ])eopl(> 
 in it then, as it ap],eared. When a morning train set 
 off for somewhere, the sleepers awakened and got out of 
 bed; fresh sheets were put on, and the Britishers were 
 put into a closet without a window at the top of a staii-. 
 They had slept in worse quarters many a time, and lay 
 heads and thraw.s, and sh'pt placidly ibr a few hours ; 
 but it was unusual to have to bundle in this fashion in 
 a grand hotel, with gas-lights, billiard-rooms, and a 
 capital table d'hOte ; and it was difUcult for two tall 
 men to bathe in one small basin. 
 
 28//^.— Between Toledo and Chicago the railway 
 passes for 243 miles over land which is near a water- 
 shed. It is rich green rolling land, with white houses, 
 and blue pools of water, and old forest-trees clad in all 
 the hues of the rainbow. It is very like England in 
 many ways— very unlike it in many others. Theiv are 
 110 old English gentlemen and no old paupers ; there is 
 
272 
 
 AN AMERICAN TRAMP. 
 
 no inoiuitaiii-peak or valley, no palace or liovel to be 
 seen. The country and the peo])le are on a pretty hi,L,'h 
 level. 
 
 The shape of the country is like many a waterslunl 
 in old Scotland near the same level. Eskar and osar, 
 mounds and ridges of stratified gravel and sand, are 
 ahnndant everywhere. The whole surface appears to 
 1)0 water-work ; but a large proportion of the loose 
 stones are of the old northern type. They are glitter- 
 ing, crystalline, striped, hard, azoic rocks. The peoj^le 
 and their soil have travelled in the same direction; 
 natives and native rocks are hidden alike by foreign 
 masses which travelled westward over the sea. 
 
 ]\Iost of the boulders scattered about near the rail- 
 way stations arc about the size of turnips, but many are 
 as large as haycocks and hogsheads, and some at least 
 are scratched stones. The highest point reached was 
 about 300 feet above Toledo, or 864 above the sea. 
 When this level is carried back to Mount Washington, 
 similar gravel-beds and boulders are found there, re- 
 marked while passing from the watershed of the 
 Alleghanies into Canada. By looking back, teniae es 
 at about this level are seen beyond Quebec ; but 
 Montreal jMountain and Buffalo will not reach so 
 high as the isthmus in Michigan and its boulders. The 
 
 
A COUNTRY WiTFrOUT OLD CRAVKYAUDS. 
 
 
 )vel to be 
 rotty liiLjli 
 
 watershed 
 and osar, 
 sand, are 
 ppears to 
 the loose 
 ,re glitter- 
 he people 
 direction ; 
 )y foreign 
 
 r the rail- 
 niany are 
 e at least 
 Lched was 
 ! the sea. 
 :ishington, 
 there, re- 
 :1 of the 
 [, ten'aces 
 :bec ; hut 
 reach so 
 [ers. The 
 
 
 nearest 'azoic' rocks are away nortli hc-vond Lake 
 Huron, or north-east about the A,lirondaks ; the roek.s 
 of tlie district are Devonian and ( "arhonifrrous. y^y 
 few rocks, and no striated rock-surfaces were se.m ; hut 
 according to Dana (p. 5;3<))— 
 
 ;hi western New-York the oourso i.s n.ostly south-wost ; in 
 no ^..nendly .south-easterly ; and the san.e in the lar.vr part 
 of Ma.h.gan an.l Illinois, in Lnva an.l Wisconsin, and .^er th. 
 <->"ntry to the Lake of the Woods fron. the northwanl. I„ 
 northern Michigan the courses vary between W. hy S. and S.W; 
 Either tlie hig glacier passed up-hill this way from 
 Quebec, or the Arctic Current flowed from tlie" polar 
 basni on both sides of the Labrador, as it now Hows on 
 both sides of Ch-eenland. So lar the drif^ boks veiy 
 like water-work, and very ttnlike a moraine. Our 
 comrades this day had nothing remarkable about tliei 
 or we are used to their peculiarities. There was 
 something peculiarly English about the look of the 
 country, and nothing un-English about the peoi)le 
 The zigzag fences, Lidian corn and pumpkins, the 
 charred stumps amongst the wheat-stubble and in the 
 green meadows, told of a new southern country. There 
 were no old churches or churchyards, but thJre was a 
 look of comfort and neatness about white houses peep- 
 ing out through glades of oak and groves of poplar that 
 was very English or very German, and tlie majority of 
 
'274 
 
 AN AMEIUCAN TUAMl' 
 
 tlicse peojile are I'luigruiits from Kiiglaiid and the j)laiiis 
 of (fcrinany. At one station a scliOdl treat was goinj^' 
 on ; it was a <,q'an(l oi»('n-air toa-party oC pretty fair 
 f'liildren, headed by masters and mistresses, all smiling 
 and ehattering, cheering and gobbling and speechifying, 
 as if there wen; n(j one-legged cnssing soldiers or black 
 slaves in the world. At another station an amateur 
 fire-brigade out on the tramp came on board with a 
 brass band, and made themselves merry with lugubrious 
 horn music. Tliey were dressed in fancy dress helmets 
 and uniforms, and were at first supposed to belong to a 
 circus. They left us to dine publicly with other fiery 
 spirits in some lake town. 
 
 And so we got to Chicago at last, after two long 
 days of pottering railway travel, through a country able 
 and willing to support ten times the population which is 
 thriving there. 
 
 The guard had announced that a message had just 
 gone down the lines to proclaim that Lee and 30,000 
 men had surrendered to somebody else somewhere. 
 Hungry for details of so great an event, we searched 
 the papers, and found many (jther crams, but no tele- 
 OTam to this effect. Thenoeforth we took no heed 
 of anything political, and waited for ne'W'S till we got 
 to a place, or within reach of English papers ; for 
 
'TIIM I'OOR MAN'S I5L00I).' 
 
 he ])l!iin.s 
 vas going 
 rotty fair 
 1 smiling 
 c'cliifying, 
 i or black 
 amatour 
 d with a 
 ugubrious 
 s holmets 
 'long to a 
 thor fiery 
 
 two long 
 mtry ahle 
 1 which is 
 
 
 amongst otluT crop,, tl„. W,..„ ,,,,„,. a 1,,,,,. ,,„,, „f 
 ^*h^ lies. ' 
 
 The echoes of the late Chicago nu..tiMg were still 
 gr,unhling in th. city. The walls were placanh-.l with 
 
 ""t.ees about 'the poor num's hIoo,l an.l th.. rielMnan's 
 gold/ and it was feared that the draft would be nsisted 
 by force. Many brave words were utf.-red, but there 
 wnsnohght. What could an unarmed population hop. 
 to accompli.sh against the military power arraved a-^aiust 
 them ? They mi^ht talk-for this is a land of lib.^t v_ 
 Init their only possible act was meek sulunission. Sulky 
 crowds attended at their several places of muster; anrl 
 those who were drawn cussed and went to battl. ,,'.a.-,>- 
 ably, if they could not pay for a substitute. 
 
 i had just 
 id 30,000 
 Dmewhere. 
 i searched 
 t no tele- 
 no heed 
 ill we got 
 ipers ; for 
 
CirAPTlvU XIV. 
 
 <'I11L'A(;0. 
 
 
 ir tlicrc bo saiiiL'iie.ss in Caniidian seciicry, hero il 
 uiuounts to uiiilbrmity. In running tlirougli Canadian 
 ])iains, occasional <flini]),sc.s of distant hills, or rising 
 grounds in the middle distance, relieve the eyes. The 
 dancing green water of the river is always something 
 Ijright and cheery ; but the * CJarden City ' stands upon 
 piles iu a swamp, between Hat water and flatter land. 
 The water has waves, but the land is as flat as new- 
 made ice ; and outside the gardens there is not even a 
 tree to break the horizon. Except in the middle of the 
 Atlantic in a dead calm, such another dead flat land- 
 scape is hard to find. Nevertheless, Chicago is well 
 worth a visit. About twenty-five years ago, the only bu ild- 
 ing there was a log-hut, in which bargemen used t^; liquor 
 when they came to fetch grain or pork from the farmers. 
 Itwas a place like the city in which Mark Tapley was jolly, 
 and Martin Chuzzlewit was chiselled and fevered. It is 
 now that which a city becomes when the site is well 
 
IIIK IIIITIIKU WKST Till': UKTTKlt. 
 
 
 , licrc it 
 Canadian 
 or rising 
 y-es. Tho 
 5ometliing 
 uds upon 
 tcr land, 
 as new- 
 t even a 
 le of the 
 lat land- 
 To is well 
 mlybnild- 
 d tv^ liquor 
 e farmers, 
 was jolly, 
 ed. It is 
 te is well 
 
 chosen. Ill llie streets of Cliiitigo a fVMil-]>assengt'r has 
 f(i look out sliar|i at the crossings, lie lias to watcli 
 lor a break in the long inucession of carts and Imsses 
 and carriages, and holt ovei-, as he nmsl in I'ai'is, or 
 ill any other eajtital. The main street is worthy of a 
 large Knropeau town — wide as Oxford Stn.-et, and with 
 far better houses on both .sides of a wide earriage-way 
 .some nules long. The farther west we go, the better 
 things will grow, and liere towns grow like prairie- 
 gras.s and mushrooms. On the (tutskirts of this western 
 growth are gardens and villas stretching far and widti. 
 Some of the railways had to go out into the lake and 
 walk on stilts, for there really was no more room for 
 them on .shore. Ships of large size, big steamers, tugs, 
 hoats, and all the paraphernalia of a big inland seaj)ort, 
 come straggling through tlui ttnvn in canals which open 
 to the lake; and street-cars and lo(;omotives come ratt- 
 ling, })antnig and hissing, roaring and ringing, through 
 the town. The whole is something unlike any other 
 place in the world. In its water streets it savours 
 of Amsterdam, and a veiy bad savour it is. In its 
 wharfs, it has something of Glasgow or Liverpool. The 
 main street, with the magnificent shop-fronts, is some- 
 thing like Argyle Street; the bustle is like Lord Street ; 
 the tame railwav enmnes unlike anvthiii<' to be fuund 
 
* ' 
 
 278 
 
 AN AMERICAN TRAMP. 
 
 out of ^America. The useful dnigoiis do no liariii. Why 
 should thuy not be allowed to snort about streets at 
 home? These tame railway engines travel on lines 
 which radiate from Chicago into the plains ; and wlier- 
 ever a line g<-)es, there a crop of farms and farmers 
 forthwith grows also. To the company who make the line 
 grants of land are sometimes given, and t.iese the com- 
 pany sell to enugrants. I;i each district a warehouse is 
 placed, to which : armers ' haul ' their produce, and there 
 they sell it, and have done with it. Corn and wliect 
 are tossed loose into railway cars, which look like horse- 
 boxes. The train speeds slowly over the plain, and 
 unless it runs foul of another train — which happens 
 occasionally — corn and train, engine and all, come snort- 
 ing and rattling through the city, and vanish at last into 
 a great tall brick magazine like a lofty Liverpool 
 warehouse. That is the ' elevator ;' the railway is 
 with.i]! it ; the wharf and the ships are beside the great 
 corn-bin, and it contains a steam-engine, whi(^h does a 
 great deal of work. The loo?: 3 grain is shovelled from 
 the cars into a wooden \vell, tinough which pass a whole 
 regiment of tin buckets. They move on the X)rinciple 
 of the engines which deepen rivers. A strap is passed 
 round a couple of rollers at the top and bottom of a 
 system of wheels, ard the buckets on the strap go dowu 
 
' FKOVI«l(jN:s.' 
 
 279 
 
 iriii. Why 
 , streets at 
 ;1 on lines 
 and wlier- 
 id farmers 
 ike the line 
 e the coni- 
 arehouse is 
 ', and there 
 and wheat 
 like horse- 
 plain, and 
 h happens 
 }ome snort- 
 at last into 
 Liverpool 
 railway is 
 ie the great 
 hieh does a 
 ,'elled from 
 iss a whole 
 e x^i'hiciple 
 J is passed 
 ottoni of a 
 \l> go do^Ml 
 
 head-foreuiost o.apty, turn u,, ami return lull „C ,,„r,. ; 
 at tne top they turn again, overt.iru. and tilt tlio .-rain' 
 into hoppero an.I spouts. Through tliese the grain is 
 turne,l into bins, where it is weighed to an ounce l,y 
 the maehinery ; ,„d when a ship is reudv for a caroo 
 a sluice is drawn, and the gr..in pours into the h Jd' 
 The whole operation seems to go on without h.iman 
 care. Labourers shovel giain into the maw oF the 
 elevator, and it docs tl,e rest like a brownie. It only 
 wants a fee,1 of coal and a drink of dirty water now and 
 then. 
 
 The trains which tlius haul grain from a circle <.f 
 hundreds of miles, also haul hogs and beeves. It is 
 quite impossible to convey any idea of the shindy which 
 goes on when a congregation of cattle-trains got to-other 
 near the station. The voice of a Yankee, engine has no 
 resemblance to the shrill yoll of an English locomotive • 
 the tones are all deep, and they are modulated to all 
 manner of notes and keys. When a gathering of iron 
 monsters takes place in a wilderness of rails, and in the 
 dark, each has something to say; and the result is like a 
 conversation of wild beasts with fiory eyes. Grunts 
 howls, roars, and yells, with gurglings, hissing, and 
 snorting, make a strange concert. But when the pas- 
 sengers are hungry country hog,, who liavo roamed at 
 
281) 
 
 AN AMEKICAN TKAMP. 
 
 large all their lives, and stout oxen us( «1 to gallop over 
 the wide prairie or feed at ease mi the barn, then the 
 music becomes discordant. The voices tell of sore dis- 
 comfort and discontent. On a still evening it seems 
 possible to understand all about it. Get out of the way 
 — Don't tramp on my hoof — Let go my tail — I can't get 
 out — Take that — Oh dear, my ear — Worry, worry — Yell. 
 Having seen an elevator, it was necessary to see an abat- 
 toir and the end of the hogs. In * Life in Normandy,' a 
 description is given of the making of country bacon ; a 
 whole family of Normans spend half the day in putting 
 a pig to death, and when they have done the deed they 
 spend the rest of it in salting him and talking over 
 their prowess. Here it is a very different thing. They 
 kill pigs by steam in Chicago. The talking engines de- 
 liver their noisy freight at warehouses. It is found best 
 to pack hogs and beeves together in railway travelling, 
 so they have to be sifted and separated. The hogs go 
 into square yards, and there they are left without food 
 for twenty-four hours. Now these are free and inde- 
 pendent pigs, and they do not take kindly to captivity. 
 Some go to sleep and try to be ouiet, but the most of 
 them spend their last hours in biting each other vici- 
 ously. One, without any apparent cause, takes the 
 nearest neighbour by the hind leg and grunts savage 
 
FIGS. 
 
 281 
 
 illop over 
 then the 
 sore dis- 
 it seems 
 f tlie way 
 ; can't get 
 xy— Yell. 
 an abat- 
 mandy,' a 
 bacon ; a 
 n putting 
 leed they 
 dng over 
 g. They 
 igines de- 
 )und best 
 ravelling, 
 e hogs go 
 loiit food 
 md inde- 
 saptivity. 
 } most of 
 ther vici- 
 akes the 
 
 :s savage 
 
 defiance. The neighbour generally accepts and turns to 
 battle. The champions clash their jaws and smite their 
 armed cheeks, hov/ling and screaming and foaming, till 
 one is vanquished, and then he charges over the lazy 
 sleepers, squealing, and each down-trodden hog howls. 
 The victor grunts content for a time, bu^ the battle 
 breaks out anew, at unexpected places, and the end of 
 the prairie-hogs is not peace. One spotted brute in 
 particular seemed to be furious or ravenous, and bent 
 upon eating somebody, for he kept charging open- 
 mouthed at distant dreaming hogs, trampling on every- 
 body, and biting viciously at ears, tails, and legs, and 
 anything that came in his way. But the hour of execu- 
 tion was at hand. It was the first day of some new 
 machinery, and it took time to get it into gear. 
 
 On the upper storey of the building were the exe- 
 cutioners. They were tall well-grown men, chiefly 
 Germans, probably used to sausages at home. They 
 were dressed for the work, in sailors' waterproofs, 
 leggings, and frocks, and each was armed with some 
 deadly weapon and a steel. To wile away the time, 
 while they chatted pleasantly they whetted their knives, 
 und felt the edge, and as they felt they smiled. At 
 one end of the building was a large trough, in which a 
 ^Leam-pipe heated water to the scalding point. The 
 
282 
 
 AN AMERICAN TRAMP. 
 
 grand invention, which was to work for the fir«t time 
 that day, was a great iron claw, which dipped undei- 
 water and rose again, like an iron hand with five 
 fingers. It was meant to hook out the pigs who were 
 quarrelling down stairs in the pen. iJelow this iron 
 hand was a long sloping table, and at the foot of it was 
 a gibbet, wdth hooks and turntables, wheels and rails, 
 for shunting split pigs along the rafters. When steam- 
 power had been applied to the wrist of the iron hand, a 
 signal was given, and the spectators scrambled out of 
 the way, up the rafters, and anywhere. Outside, a door 
 was opened in the long pen below, and a certain num- 
 ber were driven into a passage and up an inclined 
 plane, where they stood quarrelling to the very last. 
 The top door was opened, and two small pens were 
 filled with the combatants. Tlieir battles were nearly 
 done. A sweet smiling rosy dandy new hand, a youtli 
 in new yellow leggings, and armed with a hammer, 
 stepped in amongst them, and dead silence followed 
 him. A hutch like a rat-trap rose up, a fat body slid 
 down a way of rollers, and plumped into the tub, and a 
 second followed — plump. But by some mishap these 
 unfortunate brutes were only half killed, and thereupon 
 came a scene that was perfectly horrible. With heads 
 broke and throats cut, the scalded hogs dashed furiously 
 
POllK. 
 
 2S3 
 
 e first time 
 pped under 
 with five 
 s who were 
 ^v this iron 
 ot of it was 
 3 and rails, 
 'hen steani- 
 ron hand, a 
 3led out of 
 side, a door 
 ;rtain nuni- 
 m inclined 
 
 very last. 
 
 pens were 
 ^'ere nearly 
 id, a youth 
 a hammer, 
 le followed 
 t body slid 
 
 tub, and a 
 shap these 
 
 thereupon 
 Vith heads 
 d furious] V 
 
 to and fro, struggling to escape, while two Germans 
 tried to drown them by holding them down with long 
 staves. *You, Heinrich,' they cried, when the battle 
 Avas over, ' why do y.,u not kill the hogs ? Xo man 
 can stand this.' And then they rubbed their scalded 
 arms ruefully. Xo one seemed to care for the pigs but 
 one of the spectators, who felt very sick. 
 
 The two scalders now stirred the pot, and finally 
 pushed a pig into the iron hand. It turned its wrist, and 
 emptied the handful upon the table. Another followed, 
 and yet another; and the stream of pork, once set ag(jing, 
 flowed on. Out of the prairie the pigs drove at railway 
 speed into the hog-pen. Out of the pen they walked 
 up-stairs quarrelsome live pigs, and fifty were dead, 
 scalded, scraped, cleaned, split bacon, and liung in rowi 
 ready for salting, within an hour. Within a few days 
 they would be food for soldiers and sinews of war. 
 
 After the first few hitches, the whole machine worked 
 like a clock. Luckily it was seen after the 'Ariel' cruise, 
 for salt pork has become an abomination not to be borne. 
 It is said, in joke or earnest, that a pig is here put in 
 alive and conies out, packed in his own inside, a string 
 uf sausages. 
 
 Wishing to retain the power of eating beef, no more 
 Chicago lions of this kind were visited. 
 
284 
 
 AN AMERICAN THA.MI'. 
 
 The great boast of tlie natives is the lifting of liouses. 
 At first the town was built anyhow. A clever American 
 gentleman thus described the growth of a Western town : 
 — ' You see,' he said, * we are liberal people in the West. 
 Wlien a lot of people get together, they want their own 
 clergyman of course, and we give him a lot for a churcli 
 at once. He builds, and then more people come over to 
 join their friends, and a block gets filled up. No matter 
 what his religion may be, we give a parson a lot, and he 
 soon draws a congregation ; and so the town grows. We 
 are liberal people in the West, and so we go ahead.' 
 Now this process did not produce uniformity in the 
 growth of a town which only a few long heads foresaw 
 m the swamp. The churches multiplied, and the town 
 grew ; but the pavement was irregular, and the sanitary 
 regulations nowhere. The town had to be rebuilt or 
 lifted. It seemed good to the natives to lift it out of the 
 mire, and they assert that they lifted whole blocks at a 
 time. In particular, a large hotel was lifted, with all 
 the guests in it, and all the dining and sleeping opera- 
 tions went on. A man who went out in the morning 
 found the door-step higher when he came home, and that 
 was all he knew about it. A great number of men with 
 a great number of screw-jacks were underneath, and 
 when their ' boss' whistled they turned together, and \\\) 
 
rNX'LE TOM. 
 
 285 
 
 of liouses. 
 Aiiiericaii 
 ei'U town : 
 the West, 
 their own 
 r a chuicli 
 ne over to 
 No matter 
 [ot, and he 
 rows. AVe 
 go ahead.' 
 ity in the 
 ds foresaw 
 i the town 
 le sanitary 
 rebuilt or 
 ont of the 
 Dlocks at a 
 1, with all 
 ling opera- 
 ^ morning 
 I, and that 
 men with 
 leath, and 
 er, and up 
 
 went the Treniont House, hair-breadths at a time. On 
 telling tliis tah; to an old London builder, he utterly 
 refused to credit it. 'Did you see it yourself?' he said. 
 ' No, I did not ; but I believe it.' ' Well, 1 don't,' lie 
 said ; * you are younger than I, and you haven't been 
 taken in so often. It would have been far easier to bury 
 the lower storey and build one on top.' Tliat may be 
 so — the fact was so often repeated by so many people 
 that it must have some foundation. The city stands 
 sturdily in the marsh, and will probably flourish there 
 till the beavers' dam is made at Buffalo. It is one of 
 the queerest places in the world, and may become one of 
 the most important. 
 
 The people who dwell there are chiefly natives of 
 Europe — many of them are British subjects. The work- 
 ing population are chiefly Irish and German — many of 
 the richest merchants Scotchmen. The whole lot are of 
 European origin, and except that no beggars exist, and 
 everybody'' has plenty to eat who chooses to earn it, 
 populations might be exchanged with an English town 
 without producing any marked outward difference. 
 
 The play at Chicago was worthy of the town, and 
 some of the pieces acted were signs of the times. In 
 the first place, the sorrows of Uncle Tom wore enacted 
 nightly, with all the tragic bits selected and fully de- 
 
280 
 
 AN AMKIUCAN TRAMP. 
 
 veloped. Eva died by slow degrees ; Legree mur- 
 dered Eva's papa, and flogged everybody with a big 
 whip. The only redeeming feature in nil the misery 
 was a charming Topsy, who had just returned from 
 starring it in California, as the bills declared. It was a 
 sign of war when Uncle Tom was allowed to appear ; 
 but niggers were not popular, and scarce in the streets. 
 Another favourite play was in illustration of the !^^aine 
 Liquor Law, and it was well acted and much applauded : 
 but every one went home and liquored nevertheless. The 
 Ticket-of-leave ^lan was a special favourite, and ex- 
 ceedingly well acted. The bills published letters from 
 young men who had been saved from crime by the skill 
 of a charming actress. Here, and elsewhere throughout 
 the States, actors on the stage dropped their accent, and 
 spoke through their throats ; off the stage, they used 
 their noses like other people, and emigrants seemed to 
 acquire that art in a few years. It is hard to understand 
 why they do it or whence the twang came, for no other 
 part of the world has this proboscidal peculiarity. As 
 it is possible to speak otherwise, it is desirable to drop 
 the twang, and apply noses to their proper uses. 
 
3gree mur- 
 with a bi<' 
 tlie misery 
 irned from 
 . It was a 
 to appear ; 
 the streets, 
 the INFaine 
 ipplauded ; 
 eless. The 
 e, and ex- 
 etters from 
 )}" the skill 
 throughout 
 iccent, and 
 they used 
 seemed to 
 understand 
 )r no othei' 
 Parity. As 
 •le to drop 
 es. 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 CHICAGO TO ST. LOUIS. 
 
 It was here determined to vary the proceedings by a 
 Httle shooting. Tickets f..r Wilmington and a\ag of 
 shot were purchased, and on the 30tli of Septemberrthe 
 end of the month called 'poppy,' we started. 'tIig 
 clistances travelled in a short time may give some idea 
 of the size of the farm over which we had leave to 
 shoot. 
 
 Sept. 29. Chicago to Wilmington 
 » St. Louis 
 
 » Seymour 
 
 „ Louisville 
 
 Mammoth Cave and back, about 
 Cincinnati by river, about 
 Indianapolis . 
 Lafayette 
 Michigan City 
 Chicago 
 Oct. 21. Pittsburg 
 
 Total 
 'Scratch-hunting' can be combined with other sport. 
 
 58 miles 
 
 230 
 
 M 
 
 253 
 
 >» 
 
 49 
 
 '> 
 
 It 150 
 
 M 
 
 150 
 
 >» 
 
 112 
 
 » 
 
 64 
 
 » 
 
 91 
 
 )» 
 
 50 
 
 '> 
 
 468 
 
 >> 
 
 1675 
 
 M 
 
288 
 
 AN AMHUICAN TUA.MI'. 
 
 At Chicii^'o a scratched stuiu^ was foiiiitl on tlie boacli ol 
 Tiake Michi^'au, but no bare rock was discovered. The 
 Chicago and St. Louis raih'oad passes south-westwiuds 
 over a dead Ihit, aloii,L;sid(^ of a eanal with very I'tw 
 locks, for al)out 20 miles Tlu; surface beds in this 
 plain are stratiliiid water-worn gravel, with large scratched 
 stones. Where the rains have washed the rubbish on 
 the bank of the canal, large boulders occur in patches, 
 and smaller boulders abound at other places. "Wen; it 
 not for the canal and railway, the country would seem 
 to be a grass meadow, with black rich soil. At Le ^lout 
 the rock appears in a quarry. It is a yellow limestone 
 in horizontal IjimIs. Here the rail ascends ; and there 
 is a step in the plain, over the top of which the rail and 
 canal run to Joliet, 40 miles in all. The edge of this 
 step is a terrace of yellow limestone, with a cap of dril't, 
 and it looks like the ancient margin of a lake or sea. 
 The upper plain seems to be the level top of a bed of 
 limestone, washed almost bare, and large azoic boulders 
 are strewed about on the top of the limestone. This is 
 the summit-level — the common watershed of the St. 
 Lawrence and ]\Iississippi. The highest point is about 
 50 feet higher than Chicago, and 100 feet higher than 
 Joliet ; and the rock is so near the surface, that tlie 
 canal runs through a rock-cutting for many miles. If 
 
TIIK WATKHSIIKD. 
 
 •J.^'J 
 
 ic boiicli of 
 L'l'cd. The 
 -westwards 
 I vory I'fw 
 '(Is in tliis 
 5(^ scratt'lu'fl 
 rul)l>isli (111 
 in patches, 
 s. "Were it 
 would scoiii 
 A.t Le IVIont 
 \v liniostoiic 
 ; and tliei'c 
 tlie rail and 
 dw of this 
 cap of drift, 
 lake or sea. 
 of a l)ed of 
 \nc boulders 
 |ne. This is 
 of the St. 
 lint is about 
 ligher than 
 e, that the 
 miles. If 
 
 
 tlie rock-eiittiiii^ in wliiih llic NiiiL;;ii;i llnw s al Uiirfaln 
 were fiH('(l lo tilt' level (tf ulaeial stria- in tlie (jiiarrv at 
 iilaekroek, tin fresh-water lakes would dveilluw in tliis 
 
 direct ion, nidess tliere is a lower watershed elsewhere. 
 Here tlie limestone aji)>ears to be water-worn ; it no- 
 where seems to be uhu-iated. lieyond this latitude, and 
 in this region, no mention of striated roeks has been 
 found in any book on the subject. 
 
 '^^ore than lOOO miles away from this s))ot, a 
 whole jleet of icebergs are stranded ofl'tlu^ entrance lo 
 the Straits of l>elleisle. The biggest stand up like tie- 
 (.'aslle-roek at Ediidmrgh, and they are juished by a 
 whole ocean-stream. There tliey stick for months, bnl 
 they are e(Uistantly wasting; and as lliey waste away 
 abov(\ they rise like shi]»s relieved of their cargo, and 
 drift on. ily insensible degi'ees the draught of water 
 decreases, and the bergs advance towards the straits, 
 scra])ing tlu^ ground. The plane of the sea is lev(,'l, but 
 the b(jttoni of the sea is a rising ground u]) which the 
 bergs advance. If Arthur's Seat were thus to slide up 
 from Ediiiburu'h to tlu.' Kirk of Sliotts, it would leave a 
 spoor. Those who have; the taste may calculate tla^ 
 power of the tide on such a mass, in coui'se of time 
 the bergs olf Belleisle melt or l»reak so as to float into 
 th(> strait, and tlun' tinallv drift throuuh. JV.it having 
 
29(1 
 
 AN AMKKICAN TKAMI'. 
 
 imssed ovor the top of u ruh^f in t'orty t'utlioins, thcv 
 (.'iinnot ^tomikI hi dcopor water on tin; otlicr sido. 
 Tliou^li tlicy do not ;4i'oiiiid in flic (InH'ot'St. Lawrcuci', 
 icL'-ralls oarrv stones and mud to Cajx' Breton, and 
 fuitlier soutli. 'IMiorc^ is very little n'ud about the Straits, 
 but a creat d(!al at Cape; Ureton, Prince Kdward's island, 
 
 and tliG IJay ol' Fundy. Over this western w.'iter-\vorn 
 American watershed, some enj^ine has carried azoic 
 boulders, and they are exactly like boulders strewed 
 over Newfoundland. In size, shape, and material, they 
 are alike. The boulders and nuul are here to;;ether. 
 
 At Joliet the rail leaves the can.d, and mounts 
 ninety feet to tlu' up])er plain. It passes throuj^li 
 a cutting in yellow drift clay, which contains azoic 
 boulders ; and having regained the summit, the iron 
 horse gallojis over a sea of green grass, which has no 
 a[)parent limit but the horizon. At Wilmington the 
 prairie ' rolls,' as the saying is. It is not quite a dead 
 flat, but the rising grounds are insignificant. Accord- 
 ing to the accounts of those who live north of Chicago, 
 and the pul)lished works of travellers and surveyors, 
 the whole region between the jNIississippi and the 
 great lakes is like this tract. Along the Avatershed, 
 rivers crawl sluggishly and interlace. A beaver's dam, 
 or a delta made by a rain-flood, turns water into the 
 
l»(iLl.l>KIIS AM» Ml 1). 
 
 L'Ul 
 
 HIS, tln'V 
 lev sidi'. 
 
 .uwit'iice, 
 ton, and 
 ic Straits, 
 's Island. 
 ^tt'r-^V()l•n 
 iud azoic 
 5 strewed 
 'rial, tliey 
 ether. 
 I mounts 
 ^ tlirouj^h 
 lins azoic 
 tlie iron 
 I has no 
 ton the 
 te a dead 
 Accord- 
 Chicago, 
 urveyors, 
 and the 
 vatershed, 
 er's dam, 
 into the 
 
 (iiill of .\lcxi( 
 
 II () 
 
 r tin- (!nll ot Si. 
 
 I, 
 
 lU KMiri' 
 
 int 
 
 1 1 
 
 lludsou's liiiy oi- tlic ]mpImi' \>;\<\]) \\ Wilniin^ton 
 (iiic ol' (lirsc s|(»\v-n(»in,i,' rivers*, cidlcd tiic Kaidvakec, 
 lin.s <ln;j; thronuh tlic drift, down to tiir rorU ; Inil it. 
 lias o(,i IK) further. It lias waslied away (lie Ji^Iiter 
 materials, and lar^a; lioulilers are lel't un the Itank. ()iie 
 beside the bridge is of gTeenstone, H Iret long. 4 wide, 
 and 2 thiek. it is iioIIsIkmI and striated, so lliat a good 
 ruhi)ing was taken from the surface. v\t Niagara and 
 ihilfalo. limestone rocks iMiiicath such stones are striated ; 
 here the rock is limestone, full of fossils whicdi are ii(»t 
 far below the neighbouring coal-formatiitn ; Imt though 
 eveiy bare rock and (|narry that could be I'ound was 
 carefully examined, no trace of glacial work was found 
 here. These facts suem to record that the watersiied in 
 niinois was like tlu' sunken ridge in the Straits of 
 llelleisle, over which the Arctic Current carried northern 
 bouKlers on ice-raft.s. The mud ought to be found 
 beyond the boulders to complete the case. 
 
 The section of tlie drift, so far as it was made out 
 while shooting prairie-hens, ajijiears to be — 
 
 1. Surface. From one to three feet of black iiiouM, in wliidi 
 lar;4e <.^laciuted azuic boulilci','; arc |)Iaiit((l. Tin- larL^csi 
 fonnd was nineteen feet in (•irciniit'i'rcinc, and -i\ lii^'li. 
 It stands in a wide plain, fifty fret aliove tlif river Kan- 
 kakee. 
 
Of) 9 
 
 AN A.MF.HICAN TIJAMl'. 
 
 •1. In tilt! Iiiiiik ol' tlie KaiikakLc. Alxnit si.\ iVil df .■^lUid with 
 
 out any vi^^iLle stratification. 
 3. Same jilai't'. Alumt two feet ol' ^vavcl an'l ooarsL* sand in 
 
 l)e(ls (lijjping down-stream. A i'lw yi'ay Hints aiv in tin-. 
 
 gravel, liiit iiu shells v.cre I'ound. Thickne 
 l^ooks lik(! river-work. 
 
 ;s vaiif 
 
 4. S; 
 
 inie ]ilaci 
 
 Al)out twentv feet of clav, oontainin 
 
 angular gravel and s!;ratched stones. The u[i])er ])art of 
 this bed is roughly stratilied horizontally. The laigi- 
 stones are all foreigners. 
 
 5. Talus. About eight feet, hiding the l»ase of the bank. 
 
 6. Large l)oulders, apparently washed out of the elay. 
 
 7. Yellow limestone with a water-woin surface, from which 
 
 fossils i)roject in strong relief. The river h;)s nut ([uarried 
 a foot of stone. Numerous large shells abound in ilie 
 water, which is wide and shallow. Wherever land has 
 been disturbed, great numbers of huge boulders ai)pear 
 thnmghout this district, and all the s(>ctions and iocIl.- 
 discovered were much alike. The drift ^\■as cvmly 
 spread, and has not been much disturbed by rivers. 
 
 Here then ice eaii only be Iviicked by boulders ; and 
 the next tlihio- to be done was to limit llieni down. 
 
 Wilmington is a i'asliionable resort. It is wilhiii 
 easy reacli of Chicaoo, and Xew York'TS addicted to 
 iiunnino' uot into u, sleer)iiio-ear, and move llieniselves 
 and their batteri(»s to the west. The Tinus eorrespon- 
 dent was here arrested, and fined for shooting on Sun- 
 day, but really for wiitino about lUdl Kun. Natives 
 shoot on Sunday without fear of the law. ll.li. II. the 
 Prince of Wales went uuiiuinn- in this neiohbourhood, 
 
 It 
 
WILMINGTON. 
 
 21)3 
 
 .<iUiil will) 
 
 vsL' sand in 
 
 > ai'c in tin; 
 less vaiii"^. 
 
 containing 
 
 ipL-r part ol' 
 
 The lar-v 
 
 lit' bank. 
 i'lay. 
 
 from wliicli 
 lot ([uan'ii'(l 
 nnd ill tlic 
 (_'!• land lui^ 
 ik'i's appear 
 
 > and rnc]:.i 
 was t'wnly 
 rivers. 
 
 ders ; luul 
 
 own. 
 
 is within 
 
 Idioted Lu 
 
 ;heiiisolv(.'S 
 
 correspoii- 
 
 g on Suii- 
 
 NativL'S 
 
 l.iMl. the 
 
 ilxmi'hdud, 
 
 so now it is n favourito rosoit Oanio i.s al)nn.htnt, 
 hut will SMon 1)0 extinct. rrairio-hens aiv tho clii.d' 
 attraction; in .size and cohnir t hoy arc very like gray 
 hens, in nature they res.-nd.le -r(Hise. They eitlu-r sit 
 so cdose that no one enn tind tliem without a pointer, 
 or they pack an.I get .so wild tliat no one can get nmr 
 them. They are very good to eat, sell mvII, and the 
 railways open a large market. Then^ are no game-laws 
 in America, therefore sporting poulterers os'crrun the 
 country, and the race of prairie-hens will so„n he eaten. 
 P>esides these birds, great numhers of snipe frecpient 
 marshy l^ottoms and half-drained river-courses, (leese 
 pass to and fro ; the little russ..^: American woodcock 
 uiay be fonnd in send) ; and there is a ruck of iniscellane- 
 ous game, for all is game in the West. Owls, hawks, 
 grcenshaidvs, cranes, quails, prairie-larks, l)itterns, and 
 other creatures, may be shot in a morning tramp. Kven 
 deer are seen now and then. 
 
 A tough wiry Englishman, who has lieen to the I'eal 
 'lar West/ keeps pointers and manages the hotel at 
 Wilmington. lie is a first-rate shot, and one of the 
 chief attractions there Ife is Jiot th(3 sole repre.-'nta- 
 tive of his coinitry: a tidy J^nglisjnvnnian kei],s the 
 inn; and there an- so many Brit islicrs ahout. that the 
 I'lace is called J.ittlc Bi'itain. 
 
204 
 
 AN AMERICAN TKAxMF. 
 
 ,« « 
 
 Dogs, iiieu, guns, and prog, are packed into a tray on 
 wlieels, and olf they set, 11" tliere be roads they follow 
 them, if not, they go over the prairie riglit ahefid. There 
 is notliing to sto]) a mail-coach for a liundred miles, 
 unless it be a hospitable farm-house or a railway station. 
 The inhabitants are a flourishing, well-fed, solitary race, 
 who live the life of the last cotter on a Highland mooi". 
 They are a happy race, but the echoes of distant war 
 reach even here. 
 
 Having finished the prairie-hen season, set off for 
 boulder-hunting to St. Louis on the Mississippi. It was 
 announced and partially credited that General Some- 
 body had invested the town. He had made a vigorous 
 attack, but the Federals were so valiant that he was 
 forced to retreat ^v'ith the loss of a thousand men. The 
 Federal loss amounted to a dozen all told. But though 
 St. Louis was saved, no travellers could enter without a 
 pass, and no one was jiUowed to move about after sun- 
 set. Mentally cutting snooks, took a ticket, went to St. 
 Louis without a pass, and walked about the streets that 
 night without obstruction. General Somebody was 
 somewhere in the neighbourhood, and there had been a 
 fight at some place some forty miles away. The wild- 
 fowl are largt^ in the West. 
 
 IVoplf i\\ home kudw more ab(Uit the wnr than I 
 
THK HKKAK-BASKET OF THE W01U,I). 
 
 295 
 
 » a tray on 
 hey follow 
 1(1. TIr'I'l' 
 red miles, 
 ay station, 
 [itary race, 
 and moor, 
 istant war 
 
 set off for 
 )i. It was 
 iral Some- 
 a vigorous 
 at lie was 
 nen. The 
 kit though 
 without a 
 after sun- 
 vent to St. 
 itreets that 
 body was 
 lad been a 
 The wild- 
 
 nr than T 
 
 do, though I am near a field of battle ; but I see small 
 details. This is a great country, and there is room in 
 it fur all the spare population of Europe — room and 
 food, work and plerity. I have seen but one person ask- 
 ing charity, and she was a blind Irishwoman. As we 
 rush over these vast plains we see wide oceans of yellow 
 Indian corn, sugar-cane, wild grass, and wheat stubbles, 
 with occasional islands of green trees. Letive the rail- 
 road and take a stretch into tlie country, and it is still 
 the same. We drive wdiere we will, for this is a land 
 of liberty ; occasionally we meet a train of waggons out 
 on the tramp as we are, steering out into the wide world, 
 with a human freight and a lot of gear; they are farmers 
 who have sold their land, and are seeking new pastures 
 to plough. When they get to their new station, they 
 knock up a house with a few boards, plough up the 
 prairie, and, without more ado, sow and reap and prosper. 
 Xear Wilmington I measured stalks of natural grass over 
 eight feet high. I have walked through acres of it 
 higher than my head. The Indian corn is like a small 
 forest, each stalk hung with two or three yellow^ ears, 
 each yielding 700 to 900 fold. 
 
 When we stopped for our noonday halt a buffalo- 
 robe was laid on the ground, and the horse's mastei' 
 walked into the corn forest and returnetl with an arm- 
 
29G 
 
 AN AMEIUCAN TKAMP. 
 
 ; J • 
 
 full ol' yulluw Iruit. There were no owners in sight to 
 cry out ; und it they had seen us their only cry would 
 have been ' Welcome.' Pricking up liis brown ears, the 
 liorse watched the spreader of his dinner on the hide 
 tablecloth, and when it was ready he fell to. AVitli skill 
 which only long practice could give, he twisted the long 
 spiral ear of com, and scraped off the yellow grains till 
 nothing remained l>ut the white cob, the foundation of 
 the corn. A do/en of cars was a good feed for the horse, 
 and the Brobdignag corn-lield beside which we sat was 
 nearl}' a mile wide. 
 
 It is n(j wonder that birds abound in such stubbles, 
 that prairie-hens and wild geese, cattle and horses, are 
 fat and lazy as the quarrelsome pigs who arc executed 
 lor the crime of fatness at Chicago ; and tliere is a 
 market for everything close at hand. If there were a 
 hill to look at, this would be an earthly paradise, as it 
 seems. The people 1 have fallen in with aiv chietly 
 from old countries — Swiss, Gernums, Norwegians, 
 b^nglisli, Scotch, and Irish. Those who have strong 
 ai-ms use them and get on; those who have ))rains and 
 arms prosper. This is one side of this fair picture ; but 
 no landscape is complete without a shadow, and the 
 shadow ]\i'Yo is the black draft. One man has two 
 sons in the war, another has lost some near relation, n 
 
tliii'tl luis come 1 
 another lias lost a U 
 
 THt: HLACK DKAFT, 
 loiiie broken dow 
 
 and 
 
 297 
 n with haidshi'i), 
 
 ^•oes limpinn- about on 
 
 i<»n, ' cussint 
 
 At 
 
 uiy 
 
 ei'Utches, without p.'iy or jiens 
 moment a man who has spent his strength to make a 
 home IS liable to be drawn and sent to f.oht whether 
 I'o will or not, and dismay reigns in this 'bread-basket 
 "i" the world ' Pondering these things, watehing for 
 1'oulders, smoking, munching apples, and reading a 
 «tupid novel turn about, I whirled down the lip oi'tlH, 
 Mississippi basin from Wilmington in one of the long 
 cars. We stopped at a country station, and I wr" 
 overwhelmed by an avalanche of gray-eoated men 
 riicy tumbled in and filled the car to overflowing 
 One sat on my knee, another sat beside me, a thinl 
 made a pile of packs and sat on my feet, and a cduster 
 stood around us. All were sturdy, brown-faced, hard- 
 lianded men, but they did not seem to fit into the-ir 
 gmy clothes, and it soon appeared that they had been 
 'drawn.' The only ha])py face among the whole lot 
 ••olonged to a lad who Avas half-seas-over: he was a 
 substitute ; he had got a thousand dollars from a richer 
 nmi who couLl pay for his hide, and he was peribrming 
 ' Dixie ' on a Jew's-harp. • What have you done with 
 yuur money ?' said I-' drunk it V The Scotch-Yanke. 
 youth wiuked his eye. ' fvc put it where I can find it 
 
2'J8 
 
 AN AMKKICAN TKAMI' 
 
 a'fiiiii if I come buck 
 
 HI 
 
 ul il" 1 don't, tliciii that's at 
 
 lioHiu knows wlicrc to get it, 1 <;iil'Ss;' and then Ik- 
 resumed 'Dixie,' and worked awjiy till he wore a raw 
 on liis lip with his forefinger. ]My neighhour on the 
 right was grim as a signpost ; and he, too, was a horny- 
 hunded Scotch farmer. We got our mouths opened 
 with a pipe, and it soon appeared that he and tlu- rest 
 were ' bad ' — that is to say, exceedingly disgusted at 
 having to go to the war. His brother had his head 
 knocked olf by a cannon-ball, and he liad been drawn, 
 and he had not got a thousand dollars to i)ay for a 
 substitute, lie was of the class who posted placards 
 in Chicago about tlic rich man's gold. As we smoked, 
 his heart seemed to warm u]^ to his home. There was 
 the town, there the court-house, there the local insti- 
 tutions fo]' educating the children of citizens, free gratis 
 and for noticing, as well as they could l)e taught at 
 Edinburgh or (Uasgow. That was fine land off which a 
 man could get a 'turf-crop' the first year; and then 
 sorrow came over the honest brown face, and he seemed 
 1o remember that he was a prisoner going to be drilled 
 aiul shot at. It was evident why sentries with fixed 
 bayonets stood at the doors. By the aid of an apple 
 and a cigar, the nearest sentry was set agoing, and he 
 explained that this lot was ' ugly,' but that there wii? 
 
BOUNTY-Jl'MPING. 
 
 299 
 
 110 (Uiii,cr(M- „f aiiytlii),- unpleasant as he thought, and 
 tlien he puffed placidly and sj.at vigorously upon n.y 
 poor novel, which had fallen on the lloor. At the next, 
 station we stopped, and the conductor roared, ' All out 
 tor dinner.' ' Yes,' -rumbled n.y neighbour, ' for them 
 as can get out.' ' Let none of our men out of the cars,' 
 shouted a captain. I got out and dinc-d well and 
 cheaply, bought a lot of baccy for my neighbours, and 
 returned. I met my friend getting out, followed by a 
 soldier with his loaded piece. SUl right,' he said, 'I 
 have spoken to the captain,' and off they went towards 
 the refreshment-room. Ding-dong went the engine- 
 bell, and the train began t(j move. The captain 
 beckoned, and the train moved faster. He beckoned 
 harder than ever, and the recruit came hurrying slowly 
 over the boards. The train went on, and by tlu; tinm 
 the soldier of the Kei)ublic got to the step, it was goin„ 
 so fast that to leap in was a serious risk, not to be 
 incurred of course ; so the Scotchman looked at the 
 captain and made signs, and gradually faded away in 
 the distance. One of the institutions of this country is 
 a rope, which passes from car to car, and to the (mgine ; 
 the captain seized it and pulled, but by some acchlent 
 the cord was loose, and it came away till there was 
 'M"it.' a roil of it.' Then the captain looked .ound the 
 
 (r 
 
300 
 
 AN AMEIllCAN TllAMI". 
 
 ,♦ 
 
 coriH!!' and ' cussl!<1,' and tlic sentry, turning to nic, said, 
 with unction, ' "Well, now, that's awful ; them's thousand- 
 <lollar men.' 
 
 Now, whether the Yankee-Seotehman and his sentry 
 * skedaddled' together, or came on by the next train, 
 I do not know ; but no man moved a step afterwards 
 without a sentry at his heels, v. ith his hand on the 
 lock of his gun. A second human avalanche of Ger- 
 mans came down upon us at another station ; and 
 so, ])acked like cattle on a freight-train, we all arrived 
 at last. 
 
 Abolitionists arc apt to say that America sheds her 
 Idood freely to wash out the blot of slavery : this sort 
 of freedom is not the sort that suits people at home. 
 Scarce a journey M^as made in the Western States with- 
 out some such adventure. Nearly every squad of 
 recruits was guarded by armed soldiers with fixed 
 bayonets, and a pair of glittering handcuffs often 
 dangled opeidy from under the soldier's gray coat. 
 The natural pugnacity of the races who liave migrated 
 to the far West makes them fight when it comes to the 
 point ; but when taxes and service are so veiy un- 
 popular, it is a marvel how the war goes on. The next 
 rent in the Union will surely tear off this new Western 
 patch upon the Amovicnn ' luireach.' Arrived at St. 
 
.ST. LOUIS. 
 
 301 
 
 Louis, u tmiii uC oiniiibiissos-aua-luur di'ovt; up to tlic 
 side of the train, tn„k in tlie fVeiglit, iiiul drove on 
 Ijoard a .steamer. The .steamer snorted and j.addled 
 over, and tlie proce.s.sion of bus.ses drove out as they 
 drove in. We rattled up the streets, and dropped our 
 passengers at their re.spective liotels ; and 1 found niysell' 
 in a real pah'ce, beyond the .Alississippi, on the Oth of 
 October. The further I go the better things grow. I 
 have travelled more than OOUl) inih-s since I Mi Livei- 
 pool on the Oth of July, and here is a better hotel than 
 till! best T know in London. 
 
(J II AFTER XVI 
 
 ST. L(jriS TO LOL'ISVILLK. 
 
 The last boulder .semi on this line was near about 
 50 miles from 8t. Louis, and wsis like the rest in size. 
 shape, and material. According to the Mississippi Sur- 
 vey, the junction M'itli the Missouri, a little above; St. 
 Louis, is 381 feet above high-M'att'i'. Tin; aneroid made 
 it 430 r but after a journey of 288 miles from the known 
 point, and a week of varied weather, the diffei'ence (40 
 feet, or half a tenth) is not to be wondered at. The 
 height of the river-bank is nearly as much. At the 
 most the fall from the watershed is only 247 feet in ;is 
 many miles. The 'valley' of the ]\Iississippi is so!n(>- 
 thing very like a plain. 
 
 The 'valley' has nuich the same character as tlie 
 watershed of Hudson's Bay and of the polar l)asin. In 
 confirmation of this, and in illustration of life in the 
 West, a story told by an American gentleman may be 
 here retailed. The utmost source of the Mississippi is 
 only 1G80 feet above the sea, according to the American 
 Survey, Near it is the territory of Minnesota, and be- 
 
MINNKSoTA. 
 
 •MK\ 
 
 yoml it, ill Britisli terriloiy, is Lake \ViiiiiiiM-i,r, n.-iir 
 latitiule 50". It is in the liititiult' of tli.- Land's KimI, 
 iind tlio country about i.s said to be exceed inolv IVrfilf. 
 Tli(> winter i.s cold, l)ut Wu) cliinatc is licalthy and 
 agreeable. Wheat grown in Minnesota weighs liciivier 
 than any other kind that passes through the Chicago 
 elevators, and fetches a liigher price there. In the days 
 of Captain Carver, a liundied years ago, it was well 
 known that co].per and iron abouinhnl about Lake 
 Superior; ' th(3 copper district' and 'the in.n district* 
 are marked on the American ' ?>radshaw' maj). Of late 
 years it has been discovered that gold abounds in Ihitish 
 Columbia, and that the best, the shortest, and the easiest 
 way of crossing Xortli America is about latitude 5()\ 
 With gold at one end, copper and corn in the middle, 
 and energy at the other end of this chain of communi- 
 cation, a way must be opened before long, and the 
 .Alinnesotans knew it. In the first place, tliey set up a 
 line of stages to run over the prairie, without any road 
 at all, and the stages are running on grass at the old 
 English mail-rate, on English ground, paid by the 
 American Government. Then they started a steamer. 
 She was bnilt to run on American wat(^rs, but it 
 seemed to her owners that she would pay better on 
 the other side of the frontier. So thi^^ hauled her 
 
:'»(i4 
 
 AN AMKim'AN TKAMI' 
 
 t • 
 
 out (il tlic wiitc'i', iiKHiiitcd lior on ;i lot <»1 wliculs, 
 lull ii(ssc<l rour-aml-twcnly spiui ol oxen to tlic |H(»w, 
 1111(1 (Imvc the steamer over tlu; jdairi''. She Mas 
 lauuelied ill water which Hows to Jliulson's Hay, and 
 8hc5 is l>lyiii;^' now uimhi Lake Wiiiniii(% in l-ainlisji 
 hditudes, on Kn<^lisli territory, ii' 1 rightly luulerstijod 
 my iiil'ormanl. 
 
 In an old eounlrv a man takes n]) a laisinoss and 
 sticks to it, and liis son Follows in his father's j^roove. 
 Steamers stay in tla; sea. Here everybody turns his 
 liand to everything' that lia]>]iens to turn up, and goes 
 ahead his own way; and 'there's nac law ahoun tlii' 
 pass,' as the old Highlander said to the Saxon. ( )ld 
 Norse worthies were dragged in their ships oveiland, to 
 I'ullil the letter of a grant of all that they could snil 
 round in the Western Ishjs t)f Scotland. l»ruce followed 
 in his shi)) over a tarhert, as it is told. Perhaps Unch; 
 Sam meant to circiinuiavigate the Hudson's Uiiy terri- 
 tories, and the colonuii league, and circumvent his old 
 father John liull. If lie Avon't use uhat he has no 
 wonder. A Scotch lawyer turned Yankee, and too 
 energetic for the Eastern States, represents an accumu- 
 lation of energetic cuteness that may do a great deal ; 
 and such men abound in the north-west, amongst the 
 liritisli bison bulls. 
 
Mlssissii'i'i Ml 1 1. 
 
 \{) 
 
 iif.» 
 
 tin- prow, 
 
 She wa-i 
 
 s iJay, and 
 
 in I'ln^Iisli 
 
 uiidL'r.stcjotl 
 
 isincss and 
 
 LT's J^l'OOVf. 
 
 ,' turns his 
 >, and IDOL'S 
 
 uboon the 
 axon. Oh! 
 jverhmd, lo 
 
 couhl sail 
 ice followed 
 hups L'ncli! 
 s I'ay terri- 
 ^'eiit his old 
 
 lie has no 
 3e, and too 
 an accuinii- 
 great deal ; 
 inongst the 
 
 Ifose early from a ln\nrion> hrd. .\hove a Jnarlde 
 •asiri was a printed re.|i„..(, that n..tic,. nii-Iit he -iven 
 
 "I anything andss witli tl 
 
 le wateiworkv. Tnined 
 
 on 
 
 ll"' watei', and a stream of (diocfdat 
 
 e l!oWe(l ill. l;,.,.]^ 
 
 met! thai this was ami 
 
 ss, ami rang accordiiinlv, hnt 
 
 n ehoiiy ei'iitlenian 
 
 I Was 
 
 re(!kone(| witiiont my host. A 
 answered. ||,. loukrd hlandiy at the water, whiej 
 so thi(d< that an inch hid the whilo hasiii ; he dipp..,! 
 liis hlaek linovr daintily in, as if that would niake it 
 any(d<'aner; and then he smil,.,! eheoi fully and said, 
 ' 1 reekon there must ho a lot of .steamers in tho hash,.' 
 I thought he meant my hjisin, hu( it sconis he mraiit 
 th<- hasin of the .Mississippi,,,,' that part of it which 
 is oj.posit.i to St. Louis. IN.inting hiimhly t.. the 
 notiee. excused myself f..r my ignoramv, howed out 
 tla^ hiackamoor, and ,lid the he.sl I could with the 
 gohlen ^vater. The mu.l of this great y.dlow Hood is so 
 exceedingly tine, that it is next to impossihlo 1„ n,.t rid 
 "f it, hut after a few trials the water does as well as if 
 ■ t looked clean. Filled a glass, and loft it i,, setth"; the 
 Jiiud was still suspended after twenty-four hours. 
 
 As the river is muddy at all seasons, the f,uantity 
 carried hy it in a year must he something portentous. 
 A.'cording loth.' :^rississippi Survey, enough to cover a 
 square nnde to a depth oi so-iie feet (\ think ten) is 
 
 X 
 
;',!)(; 
 
 AN AMi:i;lC.\N I'KA.MI 
 
 t • 
 
 imiuially taken awiiy from Ainorina and uivcn i«) some 
 land iiiidcr tlic sea. P)iit a rivcv whose fall is 1G80 fret 
 ill ')(lOO miles, or about twenty inclies in a mile, could 
 never move a lioavy boulder. The denudatinn effected 
 hv this, one of tl)'> larL!;ost rivers in the world, amoiuits 
 to something like the scouring of a road by a shower. 
 The macadam is washed in the rut where the rain- 
 water accunnilates most; the road itself is not much 
 altered, but S(jme of tlu; mud is })acl<ed in the gutters, 
 and then; sr)rted into ]tarticular forms. Having got 
 through the muddy marbh^ basin of this magniticent 
 hotel, f(Ml like a ])rince in n hall of dazzling light witli 
 dark attendants, and \\'ent out to see what was to be 
 seen in St. Louis. At home I always skip the American 
 ]M)litical news; here American affairs are forced into 
 notice. The first thing worthy of note was the absence 
 of bustle and the presence of soldiers. The enemy really 
 was somewhere near, headed by a former State governor 
 who was very ])opular, and all the town was drilling or 
 being drilled. The sho])S were closed in the afternoon, 
 and the owners w(^re met in the streets learning the 
 goosestei» in pLain (dothes. They looked very like an 
 awkward squad of London volunteers on an undress 
 drill-day. It was rumoured that one-half of the town 
 men were 'secesh' at heart. Whv should Chica<jo 
 
 
SII.KNCK IN TIIF. I"I(;-Ma1;KI T 
 
 II io fiomo 
 
 i 1G80 t'r.'t 
 nilc, could 
 
 III cffecteil 
 1, aiiiouiits 
 
 a shower. 
 ' tlu.' rain- 
 not mucli 
 lie glitters, 
 Iavin'4 uot 
 naiii'iiiiiceiit 
 light witli 
 was to he 
 ' American 
 forced into 
 ho aliscncc 
 lemy really 
 te governor 
 drilling or 
 } afternoon, 
 •arning the 
 }vy like an 
 an undress 
 »f the town 
 Id Chicago 
 
 
 llourish and St. Louis pine ^ One is a hal-v in :i l^.g ; 
 the other an old ivspeetahle nieivhant-.-itv, seated nj.on 
 tlie higgest river, in the lu'art of the richest land in 
 America, and founded on a ro(dv. 
 
 This cruel war is the apiiarent cause ; but what is 
 the cause of the M'ar { 
 
 The chief commerce of this town lies u])-streiim and 
 down. The Northern Stat(^s have opened the river, and 
 hold New Orleans at the mouth, hut thev cannot guard 
 the whole hank. The enemy are alwavs ]^o])])ing nt 
 steamers. Sometimes a couple of guns get on the insiih; 
 of a curve in a hend, and follow the steamer, pitching 
 shot into her till she gets round the curve of the g, and 
 has tho inner curve. There is nothing for it hut to sit 
 on the safety-valve and go. As it is a service of danger 
 to trav(d, commerce is in a had way down-stream ; 
 up-stream the water is so low that steamers can hardly 
 make their way. A whole shoal of white Xoah's arks 
 were stranded and moored lik(^ herrings ])acked in a 
 harrel, witli their .sharp noses in the mud and their tails in 
 the water. It is an ill wi..d that blows nobodv "ood • and 
 the blast of war lias blown all the pigs to Chicago. p,„t 
 what evil power blew the ill wind that blasted the trade 
 of St. Louis >— that is tlie (i'lestion. As it ai)pears, Cliicag. . 
 is better placed for the provision trade than St. houis. 
 
Mm 
 
 AX A.Mi;i;i<AX ri;AMi'. 
 
 ,♦'■' 
 
 It is g(ju(l fur wiiif.' to sail round tlic world; it 
 is cspL'cially good I'or port-wine to be ('arried to 
 Xewi'oundland to ])o cooled in a sea fog — why or 
 wlierefoi'c nol)odv knows, Lut the iaet is so. It is 
 very bad i'or corn and Hour, salt beef and pork, to 
 be carried through the toi'rid /one past St. Louis 
 and New Orleans. On the other hand, it is impos- 
 sible to get out of the basins by way of (J^uebec in 
 winter, because of the ice-plug. At all times the lake 
 naviuation is difficult and dangerous : the shores arc 
 low and hard to see, nights are dark, winds are strong, 
 and tliere is a lee-shore close at hand in every ^vind. 
 To get to Ikiffalo from Ohicago, my friend the murdereil 
 pig must describe a ])ath like the letter 2. ]>ut tin- 
 rail on a flat goes straight as a dart ; and rails I'adiate 
 from Chicago in all directions. The dead ])ig and John 
 l>arleycorn may travel together by I'ail I'rom abattoirs 
 and elevators at Chicago, through cool climates, good 
 for ])rovisions and consumers, at all seasons, to seaport 
 towns on the eastern seaboard, aiid there end)ark I'ur 
 anywhere. For these reasons, as it is said in the West, 
 the Crarden City and the farm-states about her cannot 
 affortl to (piarrel with friends on the eastern slo])e of the 
 AUe<dianies. The Western States submit to the draft, 
 and sup])ort the war, which could not go on without 
 
•ArSA THTKIUilMA UKIJJ. 
 
 3U1 
 
 their lidp, bceaiisf of tlieir ])r.)visi(.ii tra.lc. In OuM 
 Trolaiid, tlu; pig pays the riut, and is tl 
 
 bust iricnd. JTei 
 
 ic poor man's 
 
 ■e, as it ap[)('ars, lie is Iiis dcadiv t 
 
 0(> 
 
 Tl 
 
 le poor' (Frislj) 'man's l.Iond' Ih.ws tliat 'the ricli 
 
 (nu'rc'liant) 'man 
 
 S Ll'O 
 
 Id' 
 
 may ho hoidod out of soahh'd 
 
 pigs and musli. On wliat strango 
 ^•vonts S(3om to tnrn ! The ohl son. 
 
 littl 
 
 I' ["ivots groat 
 
 savs- 
 
 'Buy luy caller luTriu' ; 
 Thuu-li ye may ca' them vul.i^^ar i' 
 Wives and mitln-r. 
 Ca' them liv 
 
 tirin 
 
 mai.st ili's].aiiin' 
 
 es o men. 
 
 w 
 
 lien We c 
 
 hned 
 
 01 
 
 I salt pig in the ' Ariel,' we lod 
 
 on 
 
 Irisl 
 
 1 nien, and supported the war by siiDDort 
 
 upporting the 
 
 ]'r..vrsiu]i trade ..f the Western States. For Uw sake of 
 
 dead 
 
 pigs the steamers are stranded at St. I 
 
 louis in the 
 
 e on getting np. The 
 
 agoing at lirst ? 
 
 iiHid, through whieh 1 had to wad 
 pigs k("e[) the war going, but what set it 
 Was it the ebony genthmian ^\•ho answered the bell 
 Or some other ^. 
 The banks of th 
 
 e river aie made of mud. Sceti 
 
 oils 
 
 i-ut by small creeks show beds of yell 
 and impalpabh' mud, all dippin 
 
 ow-gi';iv sand. 
 
 town-stream. Tlii,^ 
 
 IS rivei'-delta work, but it is paokod in a roek-i'oov( 
 The town is founded on roek, wliiel 
 
 the end of on,' ..f th- streets, and below tl 
 
 1 appears at 
 
 Inwn, 
 
::i(i 
 
 AN AM KIM (AN TIIAMI' 
 
 i)i u (juiiriy; it also appcnirs on tlie ()pj)Osite .side. 
 Ill winter tlii.s river freezes, so that earts can cross. 
 Ilouklcis abound Jiii^lier n[>. Here tliere is s(,'arce a 
 stoiK,' to be seen, (hi the cap of the (juarry, next to tin- 
 river and immediately above the river-phuii, a seclio^i 
 is got of the surface-beds. At about fifty feet above the 
 river, the beds are horizontal, and the rock l)eneatli 
 them is watei-worn limestone, with knots (jf j^'ray chert. 
 Tliis looks like the work of still water. About forty 
 miles below St. Louis tliere is a quarry of pink granite, 
 and aljout twenty-ii\'e miles below the town the river is 
 narrow and rockv, according to the account of boatmen. 
 If a delta of mud left there has been reniovt'd by the 
 river, it has drained a wide lake hereabouts. The 
 country looks like it, ami this looks like an ancient 
 shore. By the help of a strong lens, some minute 
 scratches were found on the cliert in this quarry, but 
 the shape of the surface was the sliai)e of limestone in 
 the bed (jf the Ottawa. It was full of pot-holes and 
 honeycombed. The caj) of the quarry is about twelve 
 feet of ^•ellowish earth and clay. 
 
 To the west rise low hills, and the) were selected for 
 a day's tramp, to see the country and the fortification.s. 
 
 Tiie river Hows in a limestone groove, at the bottom 
 of a larger gidove, whi(di is about 200 feet deep: thiil 
 
I'KNChATloN. 
 
 .-ill 
 
 j])Osite side. 
 s can cross. 
 
 is s(,'ai'ce a 
 ', next to the 
 ill, a scctio'.i 
 ;ct al)ovc! the 
 ock beneath 
 if gray cliert. 
 
 About ibrty 
 pink granite, 
 1 the river is 
 
 oi' l)oatmen. 
 ii()V(;d by the 
 ,boiits. Tlip 
 } an ancient 
 sonie minute 
 
 quarry, but 
 limestone in 
 pot-holes and 
 about twelve 
 
 e selected t<»r 
 :brtifications. 
 it the bottom 
 't deo]) : thill 
 
 is to .say, the highest Idlis about the town are 20(» feet 
 higher than tlu^ river, and from them no higlier ground 
 was visible in any direction. Ihit at 200 feet aliove the 
 
 river the ground is vei'v near the level of Cl 
 
 ucaLi'o, 
 
 and 
 
 not moi'e tlian oO ffct lieU)W tlie water.^lied of the basin 
 
 The river cannot liave been ,so Iduh, for I 
 there still. The rock si 
 
 o"' 
 
 loose ( 
 
 Irift 
 
 IS 
 
 lows at the brow of the hill, and 
 
 it has been cut thi-ouuh in mal 
 
 king roads and (|uarrie.s. 
 
 Fossils in the limestone jiroj'eet half an incl 
 and stand out like shells half-buried 
 
 1 or more 
 
 in sand. Accord- 
 
 ing to geoh)gical slang, this is unibral 
 
 O' 
 
 or vespertine, or 
 
 carboniferous limestone; and as the coal-i 
 
 neasures an* 
 
 close at Iniiid to the east and wesi. 
 
 some ( 
 
 h.'iiud 
 
 111''' eiiiJine 
 
 has ju-obably cut out a groo\'e in the ])rairie in whicli 
 the river now ilows. That 
 according to the niark.s. 
 
 enuiiie \\as not a ulacier 
 
 dl tl 
 
 le I'oek-surtaces are 
 
 weathered or water-worn. On this foundation are beds 
 of compact clay, with scarce a vestige of a h.-ose stone : 
 the few that were found, after a long search, were; small 
 bits of chert and limestone. Xo symptom of a boulder 
 was discovered, and }et the moraine of the big glaciei' 
 <»ught to be hereab(juts if it ever cxisttMl. The groove 
 does not look like river-work. Tluit kind of denudation 
 is well exemplitied in small water-cour.ses cut bv rains 
 in the swelling green hills al)ont St. Touis. Every sec- 
 
::ii^ 
 
 AN A.MKIMCAN TKAMI'. 
 
 tidii of ii tntiich ilni^ by running wuIlt iu the lUiy is 
 angular, like V, '^^^^^ the plan of it is like a gnarled oak- 
 Uraneli ; l)ut the wide trench fron; coal-measure to eual- 
 ni(!asure is liko the ])ay of Fundy when the tidi; is out 
 — a plain of retl niuu, with leads of shallow water here 
 and there, and a coast-line of rocks with a caj) of drift. 
 This is the shape of sea-work. 
 
 On leaving hSt. Louis on the 8th, the road passed 
 eastwards for 20 miles over a jjlain as ilat as a board ; 
 it then reached a low range of yellow limestone hills 
 capped with sand and clay, and about 150 feet higher 
 than the plain. This semblance of a coast-line bounded 
 the lower plain as far as the eye could reach on a clear 
 day. 
 
 The clay on the hill-top is more than twenty feet 
 thick, and had no apparent stratification. In a cutting 
 near a roarl, it stands firm, u])right as a wall ; but the 
 rain digs into the clay, and small streams have jnade 
 ti'encliL'S in it more than six feet deep. If these hills 
 had been long above water the clay would all be gone — 
 washed from the solid foundation into the Gulf ol 
 Mexico, or the wash-hand basins at the Linnel Hotel. 
 
 The results of this tramp to St. Louis so far co- 
 incided with former results, and supported the tlu'Oiy 
 founded upon them. The last vestige of (ireeidand ice 
 
Ai a cutting 
 
 AN li;'>N<l,Ali. 
 
 Ill tlu; xUUiutic was .seen about 37" lo' 
 
 last northern boukl 
 
 
 (•^ee j)iin(. 2) ; tliu 
 
 cast was thcrelbi 
 
 tl 
 
 cr was found about hit. :V.)'\ T\ 
 
 U' next 
 
 e or,L;anizcd 
 
 so as to k 
 
 i«-'c[) ah)nM' m,;,!- 
 
 lis hititu.lc by travelling eastwards to buLsvilh 
 the :\raniniotli Cave l'( 
 
 wit] 
 
 )Utl 
 
 Iventucl' 
 
 or a southern [.oint to aim at 
 
 in 
 
 :}■ 
 
 In wanderino' about St. Louis h)okin.. 
 
 otlier things intruded tl 
 On the river-ban] 
 
 »r Ijould 
 
 ers. 
 
 leniselves, and liad to ])e noticed. 
 
 K one on 
 
 centre oi' activ 
 
 ly I'l 
 
 ice a])peared to l)e 
 
 a 
 
 ^ worlc. It turned out to be 
 
 iactoiy, wlienee 
 
 an iron- 
 
 rivets in iron plates. Sent 
 
 came tlie ])eculiar e]ano' of eiincl 
 
 chin: 
 
 ries 
 
 mounted L;uard at 
 
 with sliouldered 
 
 arm; 
 
 enougli of a sliarp snout 
 
 every opening; but, nevertliel 
 
 ess. 
 
 was seen, to betray an ii'onehid 
 
 gunboat of small proportions. Perliaps ah 
 
 tended for tlie raid 
 
 ic m; 
 
 crs and bushwliack 
 
 ly be in- 
 
 pclt tlie peaceable wliite arks in the yell 
 slie may be intended for otl 
 
 Ivcrs iiud \v])H w] 
 
 lo 
 
 ow Uiud ; but 
 
 :\i 
 
 icr purposes. Onee iji tl 
 
 le 
 
 ississippi, a steamer may go anywliere— 
 
 l>rames, as it appears. 
 
 On the hill-tops were 1 
 
 'ortilicatio 
 
 very like other mud edifices of theii' ela,.s. N 
 
 -even over tlie 
 
 ns veiy imly and 
 
 ea 
 
 were soldiers. Tl 
 all the soldiei 
 
 r tl 
 
 s s 
 
 Tl 
 
 ley Were campeil under /r,(/c.s (Fah 
 oen encamped in these iv^i 
 
 lem 
 
 i(, a.- 
 
 ons were 
 
 ley were very .jolly, vei} noi.y, very L 
 
 aisy aliout endk- 
 
:\ 1 4 
 
 AN A mi; UK AX TllAMl' 
 
 iiij^f beef, ami mostly very youiin'. Not lar from Ur'HI 
 were a ganj^ of navvies working in tlici day cutting. 
 One of these — an Kngiishman bv his accent — advanced 
 and began: 'Friend, are you from ihe ( )ld ( 'ountry T 
 'Yes, I am,' I said. '1 thought so,' he exclaimed. 
 'Well, then, will you tell me how things are in Livei- 
 pool?' And then he opened tlu; llooilgntes of his grief, 
 and poured his sorrows into my ears. His cotton shiit 
 was egregiously dear. He got good pay, but what was 
 it worth when things were so di-ar;* lie thought he 
 would go back to England, for this was a bad phu^e to 
 live in now. There were the soldiers on the hill there 
 looking down at us. That one was an ollicer. Did he 
 look one in that sliabl)vliat ? — and so on. Not wishing 
 to be mistaken foi' a disguised reb taking a plan of the 
 new defences, I launched out in strong a})probatiou of 
 the ollicer and his costunu;, shook hamls with the 
 navvy, and de])arted. One (jf the soldiers was kind 
 enough to accompany me ])art of the way home, and we 
 conversed aniical:)ly till Me got to his destination, a 
 camp in the subui'b.;, and there we parted. Unless 
 these fellows were looking after suspicious characters, 
 no other creature in this besieged town under inilitaiy 
 law, swarming with spies, and inaccessible to ])eaceal)li' 
 travellers, took the ; mallest notice of ' dis here chiM.' 
 
sri'l'Ki; AT tAULlSLK. 
 
 'm: 
 
 Tlu.' result of the ])Oul»l('i'-liuut to tlu' eu.stwurd is 
 soon tt)ld. Tlioii^ili the roadside was keenly watched, 
 with the full expeetation ol' seeing the lanuiiar shapi; 
 of a l)ig striped stone, not one was seen hetween St. 
 Louis and Louisville, on ]ilain or in railway cutting. 
 The road crosses a nundtei' of riveis, which ilow south- 
 wards into the Ohio, and join the .Mississii)])i. As soon 
 as the old coast-lii' f it he one) is passed, tin; way 
 rises, winding thi..iigh well-wooded hills of sand and 
 clay, containing small water-worn stones. At 180 feet 
 above St. Louis (4i)0 above the sea), the ])rairie is 
 reached. It is a beautiful rolling' ciamtrv, like the 
 best parts of fertile England, with neat villages lu.'stling 
 among trees, and wide tracts of corn-land stretching as 
 far as the eye can reach. They extend to Wilmington 
 and Chicago. After a while the road descends to oU 
 fiMit al)ove St. Louis, and there it stays for a spell. 
 
 At Carlisle the engine broke down, antl there we 
 had to stay for a spell also, waiting Ibr a fresh horse. 
 We had taken berths in a Marni slee}>ing-car, and as this 
 was Saturday niiiht, no more trains were coming ; but 
 as we had no food (»n board, all adjourned to Carlisle 
 in search of su]>per before going to roost. The landlord 
 of a little country inn was rather taken aback by this 
 invasion of hungrv men : but he and a lot of .smart ^'\v\s, 
 
:^.i(; 
 
 AN AMKIMCAN TltAMI'. 
 
 \\\u) li;ul just I'cil ii lai'Lic couuli'V conipaiiy, set tlieii 
 sliduldcrs to their wliccl, mid their IkmkI.. to tlic IVyiii^;- 
 piiiis, and ill tell luiiiulcs twenty or iiiirly ravenous 
 travL'liers were niuneliin;^' as many uood l)eei'steaks, und 
 swilling hot tea. A hir^^c niaji o|' tlie county liung on 
 the Willi. The whole ol' it is roUing prairie, grass land, 
 and woodhind, disjM)Si(l in long strips, which lun X.K. 
 and S.W., as do the rivers. Hill and dale, and varieties 
 of soil Jiiid vegetation, all trend one way. According t(» 
 a sharp, good-natuii'd native, who clearly th(juglit 1 
 was a laud six-eulator, boulders ol' granite, and of a blue 
 stono, as big as a man's head, are found in the land. 
 If so, they nuist be rare, for f saw none. There is 
 good shooting iu this district. Prairic-heiis abound, 
 ducks and geese are numerous, and three de(,'r were 
 brounht iu this mornin<>'. The rivers are Hooded once 
 a year, generally in ]\Iay mid -lune. The bottoms are 
 very rich. The district is rich in coal. One pit was at 
 work at the lirst rise, and several more were seen at 
 work. A seam 7 feet thick was found at '2i)0 feet below 
 the surface, in boring an Artesian well near this place. 
 Larsje fortunes have been made bv purchasinu' land 
 with undiscoNcred coal-seiims hidden under the rich 
 prairie. An\ man who does not mind the chance of 
 being dra("ted, may here become proju'ietor (if a laig^' 
 
>rNsi:T ((ti.nrit' 
 
 317 
 
 •'oitl estate \\>v a sniiill sum, if lie jias siilli.-imi -.'..li.uiVal 
 
 knowlcdnt" Id select Iiis fai'lii ii 
 
 mark(,'t is Iiamlv. tli( 
 
 1 a h'oim! jiliic 
 
 |e (■(>; 
 
 ll- 
 
 cxct'lleiit. A ( 
 
 country l»rt;tty, and tlie cliiuati 
 
 from New ( Irlcans • 1 
 
 reiiiiaii passcngui' had lately e..me uji 
 
 K' came in a steamer between t 
 
 \V(I 
 
 -unl.oals witli guns I.m.I.mI and eoeke.l ready for 11-1 it- 
 iiu.;-; lint tlieiv was no fjuht this time. M, 
 steamers liad been lired at. He described tl 
 as moiK.toiKMis, and the \<>yage cn.st a week. 
 
 Having suj.j.ed and listened to a ])(iHtical d 
 till sulllciently sleepy, .strolled out into tlie frost 
 
 my other 
 le scenery 
 
 iscussion 
 \ moon- 
 
 light, and listened to th 
 
 le eaeklmg of \vil(l-g(>e.se in th 
 
 air, and all the slee[)y sounds of a eountrv-t 
 to I'oost. The sunset coloui's thi 
 
 own gome 
 
 beautiful. The skv 
 
 \\- 
 
 s evennig wire most 
 
 as perfectly clear, and elowed 
 
 with orange and green till the dark blue and silver of 
 a hard frosty sky sunk down u[.on the horizon, and 
 
 ling i)eeuliar 
 
 e aw 
 
 put out the orange light. There is sonietl 
 
 in these American sunsets in low latitudes. AVi 
 
 far enough south to note the rapid change from day to 
 
 night; but that is not the onlv i.eculiaritv. The 
 
 European sun goes down l)ehind a sea-horizon, and the 
 
 li'dit 
 
 is reilecter from the convex water- 
 
 mirror, and 
 
 shmes tlirough haze ; here the sun goes down behind 
 n dry ])lain Mdiich does not reileet. Tl 
 
 lere is a marked 
 
 y V 
 
:'.18 
 
 AN .\Mi:i;i( AN ri;\Mi'. 
 
 ililftTcncf' in the colour, wluitcviT tlir I'fusoii iiiuy In-. 
 Tlici'i' is less variety of sliiidc, and a iTcuiii'in'c ol' tim 
 Hiximt ctH'cts nit^dit after iiiulit. ImhiikI tiie way to the 
 railroad in tin; dark, Jind after stunddini,' over the 
 sleejuTs, found tlio ond of tlic sliii)\vre(d<ed train. (Jot 
 in, and walketl through tlie d('serte(l cars to the slecpin*;- 
 car ; turned in, and went to sleep. I)reanie(l of dancinj; 
 furious reels in a very small house, and of the cliaiii <>f 
 th(( 'Ariel,' and the f(»re-lioid of that ]ialac(i on the water ; 
 anil finally awok(\ to lind the sun shinin;^', and the train 
 crawlinf,'sh)wlythrou,i,di a rollinj^f country. The haronieter 
 was at the sanu; h'vej. It was a fine, sharj), frosty, 
 cloudless morning, hut there was no hreakfast to 
 he <^ot. Passed a cuttin,^' in which wei'e ImmIs of 
 sand dipi»ing opposite ways, a shape w]ii( h indicates 
 ehb and flow. Got into an empty car, toa.sted myself 
 at the stove, and thought how much I sliouhl like to 
 eat somebody if I really were the wolf who^. ap[tetite 
 liad fallen to my share tor breakfast. We got nothing 
 all that frosty Sunday but a slice of apple-pie late in 
 the day. The l>reakdown had thrown everything out of 
 gear. Near the White liiver the country is hilly, the 
 rock a coarse sandstone, which forms weathered cliffs 
 near the river. The hills are not more than 200 or 
 .'?00 feet high, but well-wooded and very p:etty. The 
 
J III; (nw-siirNTKi:. 
 
 M I \) 
 
 mil wiiulM tlirruii^l, th.. l.iHs likr an .vl „,. t,, ;'..ii) tbct 
 (740 i.l-.v,. tlir. sp;,\ ini.I tlioivtore l.iol,,., ,i,,,„ ,)„. 
 watersh.Ml nciir ('iiici.u,. For .'i distan.-n of 2\'A milos 
 there is ii„ syinptum of -lacial action, but cv.Ty si-Mi of 
 water-work- in all forms. An unforUinate won,an'"l.(.re 
 provcl (lu3 i,s,i of tin- fVan.o alu.nl of the en-ino. 
 She was seen l.y the enoine,,- sitting, on the trackfand 
 
 the usual staecal 
 
 o 
 
 niovenienf on tlic s(eani-l 
 
 perf(»rnir(l witli vit'-our. Tl 
 
 mni was 
 
 TI 
 
 H' Woman never stirred. 
 
 H" en,umc took her on the side of the head, an.l the 
 'Vame lifted Ikm- up and east lior into tlie ditch. Tlie 
 train stoj.ped, an.l all the passengers got down and 
 trotted h (ck a quarter of a nnde to the plac- where; the 
 woman lay. They ehistered round her, and then the 
 train thought it would go hack too. So it snorted and 
 screamed, and ran backwards into the thick of tl 
 Tliey scattered and nuule 
 
 lem. 
 
 one else was hurt. The 
 and lier hciid was cut and bleediixr 1 
 broken. So she was bundh3d into a b 
 taken on to Mitcliell, where she was left 
 landlady. No one knew anything about 
 
 er, no 
 
 room, and, for a W(»nd 
 woman was badly stunned, 
 
 »ut no l)ones wer 
 
 iggage-van and 
 
 in chai'ge of a 
 her, and it was 
 
 ■surmised tliat she had been liquoring freely somewher. 
 on Saturday night. 
 
 From Mitchell the line 
 
 runs southwards to tl 
 
:V2{) 
 
 AN AMKincAN TIJA.Ml'. 
 
 Ohio, and tli(' country is niucli tlic same. At Salciu, 451) 
 feet (S'.\0 i\])()\c, the sua), the I'oek is yellow sand- 
 stone, clear of drift, and weathered. The country ap- 
 pears to be a series of hollows scooped out of horizontal 
 beds of sandstone of the coal-measures. The shape may 
 be expressed by curved lines, thus — 
 
 A tongue of land like a low promontory extends out 
 into the [)rairies westwards from the Alleghani?s. The 
 Ohio is on one side of it, Lakes Erie and Ontario on 
 the other ; the ere l of it is al)Out lat. 41", and the end 
 of it near Chicago. The hollows are mere ruts dug out 
 of it, and we have been crossing the hollows thus far. 
 From Mitchell the road rises to G30 feet (1010), and 
 then runs down to Now Albany, on the Ohio, where the 
 aneroid marked 150 feet above St. Louis. According 
 to the survey, the difference between Louisville and 
 the junction of the ^lississippi and ^Missouri is only 
 20 feet. 
 
 On.dtting details, the present shape of the surface 
 which covers the coal-l)asin in the fork of the Y made 
 by the Ohio aiul ^Nlississijipi may be expressed by a 
 curve of 340 miles ^ — s long, and 0/50 feet high. The 
 rocks seem to be very little disturbed, so coal-mining 
 
1 tlAKt'. 
 
 :!l'1 
 
 ""gl>t to b. easy. A rc-fereuoe tu I'lul,- 8 in .l„l.„st„„'s 
 • I'Lysical Atlas' will .si,,,,,. „,„t tl,o torn, of tho cast ot 
 tlie Gulf of Me.xico is ,vpeated i„ „,i„iat„re aI,o„t fl,e 
 fork at Cairo. TI,e bI.,ok colour ou tl,c geological ,„ap 
 co,nc„],.s ,vitl, a rise like a coast uoar ,St. T,oui.s, a„,I 
 near Jiitchell. The i,ollows look like a,iue<.-,s denu.Ia- 
 tion ; an.l tl,c,-e is no .symptom of a gla,.i,.r, littl,. or l.i,,, 
 ill this veghm. 
 
 The Ohio i.s crossed in a .stoaiiior, and from t],o 
 landing-place busses carry passengers to tlie several 
 liotels. The water is cpiite as dirty as in the Mississippi 
 and the colour of the dirt is the same. The town is 
 crowded with soldiers and all that belongs to war. Th. 
 railroad which runs .south into Kentucky is new ; it 
 was not finished when my edition of Mitchell's ' duide' 
 was published; but, as the publishers of that useful 
 work wisely omit to date it, the date of the railroad 
 cannot be learned from the railway guide. In July tlu- 
 first thing the Halifitx pilot had to tell was that gold 
 was at some fabulous premium, and the next was that 
 a great Southern raid was threatening Washington. 
 When it was oyer, the armies near Richmond used to 
 chaff each other. Xi,e Kebs bellowed like bulls and 
 shouted, 'Ro! haye some beef. Yanks ?--Ba:' The 
 
 Y 
 
322 
 
 A\ AM KIM CAN TliA.MI 
 
 Yanks rctm-iicd hullcts, and tlic IJohs r('t(jrti'(l ; and so 
 men died for Ix'cf and cliafi'. 
 
 On ixitiivnin^c^- from tlic North, tlic war pendiiliini 
 liad taken another swiny'. Athuita had faUcn — so h;id 
 gold. Nobody knew where Athmta was, hut all were 
 agreed that it was a glorious victory. After some time, 
 Atlanta was fliscovered in a map, and it seemed pLain 
 tliat a, very disagreealde missile was in the sido of the 
 lieb. The bullet went in l)y way of Louisville and the 
 Kentucky railroad, and su])plies of men and provisions 
 followed through the wound. TJie most oljvious remedy 
 was to plug this liole, and extract General Sherman and 
 his anny. On this head nothing certain was to be 
 extracted from the newspapers, but it was gradually 
 drawn from fellow-travellers that the communicati<jns 
 with Atlanta were in consid(n\able danger ; that to 
 travel on the railway was now a service of great 
 peril ; and that the North had got a ])retty consideral)le 
 whipping somewhere near Salina. It further apjieared 
 that the Federals held the gromid on which they stood 
 in Kentucky, but little else even there. A gagged press 
 would not be a])t to insert stories against the rule of tlie 
 ruling power ; and lun-e are a few stories of daily life 
 taken from one paper one morning : — 
 
i'lfK i:OI{|)KI{S, 
 
 32;{ 
 
 Lotmi-ille, Kent I'd';/, Orloher 1:5, I8(;4. 
 
 Mrrn.Kii op an Enhclmnk OFFicKK.-Cai.tain M-("urtv, 
 """-'vof the 42d In.liM„a,ana ..nmllin,, ..lli.vr for K'..v;..' 
 t.'wnslni,, Danes. County, started, on Monday of last week, to 
 ^->^^y the <Iraftea men of the ton-nshi,>. L, the aften.oon, whil. 
 ••Hln.gulon^. the roa.l it. tlio south-east part of the coutitv, he 
 was slu.t hy n>eu in ambush, and, as it appears from the conf\.s- 
 sion o one of the conspirators, hy a detachment of .i^hteen who 
 '•auded together for this purpose. 
 
 'After killing M'Carty, they plac, I the hodv on a sh-d and 
 '■••aggod .t tlie distance of on,- and a half miles to Wliite KIv.t 
 and,tymg a Lu-e stone to the body, sank it in the river His 
 horso ratuo a honse not Dvrofnan.l was taken up, but not reco^nuse,! 
 On Tuesday, the family becoming alarm,.! at his proiracte,! 
 al's.nce, inqui.y was nmde in relation to his nu.ven.ents ; and hi. 
 horse was found, and traces of blood discov.-red on th. saddle 
 
 'One man was arrested on suspicion of having cotan.itted 
 •In- murder, but no proof of his guilt could be ad.luced, and he 
 was hoerated. On Thursday the place of his as assination was 
 •liscovered, and the track of the sle.l traced t..the river-bank 
 
 'The man who had been arrested accompanied the party o. 
 t .e search, and when the bo.ly was dragged from the wider 
 l^ncken witli remorse, he burst out eying, and de,.lared that! 
 though his hands were clear of .M'('artv-s l,lood, his heart was 
 "ot and then proceeded to make full confession of his 
 JJU3lt, and of the damnable conspiracy that had been set on 
 uot, and tluts cowardly executed. Eighteen had bande.l together 
 or this purpose, ami on Monday, knowing of the tnoven.ents of 
 taptam M'Carty, had divided int.. s.pxads and wavla.d the .lilh-r.-nt 
 '■"ads along which they supposed he wo.d.l pass. Five men 
 ••^■-^'-Itl.e S4uad that did the killing. IK- gave the nan,., of 
 "'" ^'"t"'- I'and, and seven of them have been anvsied and .-nt 
 
324 
 
 AN AMF.HICAN THA.MI'. 
 
 .<) Indiuiia]K)lis. Captain M'Caity is represented by all who knew 
 him as an excellent and estimable man ; and even the men who 
 murdered him su cowardly and cruelly bore this testimony to his 
 character.' 
 
 What a popular service it must be wlieu the people 
 thus welcome tlie recruiting officer north of the Ohio! 
 Xo wonder there is a cons])iracy and a political trial 
 now wing on in tin; Western States. 
 
 • 4 
 
 Murder Xo. 2. 
 
 * Murder in Putnam County, Ind. — We learn that on 
 Wednesday, the 28th ult., a most shocking' murd(n' was com- 
 mitted in the town of Cloverdule, Putnam County, Ind. An oM 
 citizen named George Young, who was residing alone, was nnir- 
 dered by some person or persons unknown, who entered his 
 house in the night time. The marks on the cor])se indicated 
 that he hatl received a blow on the back of the head with a 
 bludgeon of some kind, and that he had also been choked. The 
 horrible deed was not discovered by the citi/.ens till Friday iul- 
 lowing, when ho was found lying on the lloor of his housi', the 
 front door locked, and scjme article of furniture drawn up to th'- 
 back door to keep it closed. A coroner's jury was sunnnoned, 
 which elicited the above facts. Mr. Young bore the reinitatioii 
 of being a ])eaceable and quiet citizen. 
 
 * SeNcral persons of questionable standing have been missi-d 
 from tho neighbourhood since the murder, one of whom is known 
 to have belonged to Morgan's raiders wlum they entered Indiana 
 over a year ago. 
 
 Morgan is a ianioiis 'Oorilla' of great power and 
 
HOKDKKEJtS. 
 
 .SLT) 
 
 ferocity, according- to one side ; a sucking dove of great 
 suavity and polite demeanour, according to tlie otlior. 
 
 Mvrdcr A'o. 3. 
 
 ' Two Men Huno.— Last week two men were hung ut Paris, 
 Linn (bounty, Kansas, for robbi,,,,. a soklier's wile of over three 
 liundred dolkir.s. When the soklier returne.l liome, he raised a 
 party ol citizens and cauglit the r.^bbers. They were forced to 
 reveal where they had hid the stolen money, after which they 
 were hung.' 
 
 LyuL'Ii law seems to prevail in this region. 
 
 ' Snow.— Snow f.ll on Friday at Indianapolis, Lafayette, and 
 other places in the northern part of Indiana. This will account 
 tor the cool weather in this vicinity' 
 
 Pleasant weather for campaigning, and a good 
 reason i;,r carrying the war into the enemy's Marm 
 country ; perhaps this may account for the northern 
 liractice of Lurning everytliiu"- 
 
 This M-as the whipping which individual soldiei's 
 confessed, but the papers would not :— 
 
 ' General Burrridge's Expedition.— The following facts 
 Ki regard to the failure nf General Burbridge's expediticm into 
 Virginia were obtained from a gentleman uf Covingt.^n, who r.un- 
 versed with General Burbridge during his brief stay in tluit city 
 Sunday afternoon. 
 
 ' General Burbridge left Lexington Ky., about twu w.rks 
 MHce with a force of muunted men, for the pnrpose of ,b-stroyin.' 
 U.e e.t.n>ivc salt un.ks at SaitvilK.. Va. Tpou arriving tla..^ 
 
32G 
 
 AX AMKKICAN TKAMI' 
 
 lu! i'oiiiid llu- ]ilaL'(,' !^tl•(lngly lui'tilicd and deleiidud by a lai'gc 
 rebel force, under conuiiaud of IJivckinridge and Ecliols. (Jeueral 
 liiirbridge had two brisk skivniislies with the enemy, captuvinj: 
 two redoubts, one liundred and lifty prisoners, and a hir^'c nuniljei' 
 of horses, mules, and cattle. Our losses in the two lij^hts were 
 small. Colonel Mason, t)f the 11th ^lichii^an, was killed, and 
 Colonel Hanson, acting Brigadier-General, and a very brave olhcer, 
 was mortally wounded. 
 
 ' Finding the place too strongly fortified, and defended by a 
 superior force, Cieneral Burbridge withdrew in the night, leaving 
 his wounded at the farm-houses in the vicinity where the fight 
 to(jk place. The rebels pursued our troops about eight niih.-s, 
 but with what elfect is not known. General Burbridge and stalf 
 ai'rived at Covington on Saturday afternoon, via Big Sandy river, 
 and left immediately by special train for Lexington.' 
 
 Here lies one of the AVesteni wild-fowl — a tkinard 
 smivai/c ; but lie proves that nigger soldiers are in it 
 popular in this region, and that is true : — 
 
 ' Versailles, Oct. 9, 18G4. 
 ' 2'(j the Editors of the LouisviUe Journal. 
 
 ' The paragraph in yoiu- paper on Friday, the 7th inst., under 
 the caption of * A Uilhculty in Versailles,' is purely imaginary, 
 and without the slightest foundation in fact. 
 
 'There has been no collision between the citizens and negro 
 soldiers in Versailles, and no stringent measiu'es adopted by the 
 military authorities in consecpicnce thereof. It is not true ' that 
 negro soldiers are stationed at every corner of the streets, and 
 have orders to disperse all gatherings of the citizens, or that only 
 two men are permitted to stand and converse with each other un 
 the street,' as stated by your informant. 
 
 ' It is true that on ]\b)nday, the 3d inst,, a s<piad >>[' u>-y,V'> 
 
 
A I!KI:A('I1 of dkcoiji-m. 
 
 'V>7 
 
 sclcliers Willi arms in luuul, i.ara.lcd tho .u.its after iii-ht, to 
 the LM-eut unnoyance of pi'dcvstrians and rudely thrust asidi' ^mtlc- 
 nien, anduvt-u ladios, mIio hapi.tMKMl to W' in tliuir way. "n.,w, 
 there wa. uo aj.parent lu'cessity for this military dis].lay at sucli 
 a time— tlure was no threatened dani^er from any (piartfr. Upon 
 iii'iuiry, it was ascertained that these ne-ro troo])s were acting 
 midcr the orders of a major in command at this j.ost, who was 
 drunk at the time, and n(4 consci(nis of tlie cliaracter of his oHence. 
 The citizens, feelin- justly indi-nant at such a breach of decoium 
 an<l res]i,.rt, drew ii). a remonstrance to head-quarters at Lexinjr. 
 ton, settin- forth the facts in tlie case, and in a very short tiine 
 said olHcer was re quired to appear hef.^re his superiors and answer 
 fur tlie offence cliar«,'ed a.L^^ainst him. 
 
 * It is not tru(; that hostility exists on the part of the citizens 
 tnu-ard the negro soldier, f.>r, as a general thing, thvy are ohedic-iit 
 ■•nid civil ; but the cause of complaint is against those i)laced in 
 command, who are generally Dutch, rude and rustic in manners, 
 iievc-r looked into Chesterfield, with scarcely an idea above con- 
 verting a cabbage head int(j krout. Of course there are some 
 honourable e.Ycei>tions. 
 
 ' A\"ith all due deference to your informant, I am induceil, 
 from a sense of justice t.. all parties, white and black, to nuikJ 
 the above statement. c^. . 
 
 each other on 
 
 Here are the pleasures of war in a loyal State, and 
 close to head-cjuarters : — 
 
 'Glerilla Ophuatioxs neak the City.— The guerillas aiv^ 
 growhig extremely bold, as their operations within a few miles of 
 tlie dty plainly testify. We are inf..rmed that at an early hour 
 on Wednesday morning, a luuid .,f twenty-five armed men was nn 
 the Bardslown i)ike, a .dioit di.-tance from Lnuisviile, engaged in 
 committing .h'pivdatinns. La>t night seven nf tli<- scn,in,lrel> 
 
:<28 
 
 AN A.MEHICAN l.UAMl'. 
 
 .*■' 
 
 iiuidu a mid on the Twu-Mile-llouse, and rubbed several parties 
 livin<: near. One gentleman, whcse name we did not learn, was 
 lelieved ol" lii^i pocket-book, containing.' ]{)(K> dels. The toll-^Mte 
 keejier \VU8 rohl^ed of a small amount oi' money. We tru>t that 
 an en(!r<a'tic move will he made bv the military authorities, 
 which will result in the capture of the entire party of thieves. 
 
 ' At an hour later than the above writing, we learn that the 
 giierill'v scoundrels lorded it completely over the highway this 
 morning. Every person met on the road was halted and roblied. 
 A great commotion existed among the marketmen and milkmen, 
 as the robbers paid particular attention to them. Mr. I. M. 
 Hornsby was halted by five of the desperadoes, four and a half 
 miles from the city. They presented cocked jtistols at his head, 
 and forced him to hand over his purse, containing 300 dols., and 
 a line g(jld watch. They then unharnessed his horse, and left 
 him on the highway, (quietly .sitting in his buggy. The last he 
 saw of the thieves, tliey were riding down the Taylnrsville Koad. 
 From other parties we learn that they robbed the toll-gate keeper 
 on this road, and he (the keeper) says, threatened to kill him. 
 He is an old grey-headed man, and we would have thought that 
 his silver hairs would have commanded respect. The robbers 
 did not respect his age. He was beaten over the head with the 
 butt of a pistol, and otherwise roughly handled. 
 
 ' Five miles from the city, a the Taylorsville Road, Mr. S. 
 Gibson, of Shelby County, who was coming to Loiiisville on 
 horseback, was halted and robbed of 556 dols. in money. As he 
 neared the city he overtook men on foot, on horseback, and in 
 waggons and buggies, who reported themselves as victims of this 
 wholesale robberv. The guerillas addressed their leader as 
 Captain Furgueson. It is a shame that so daring a band of 
 robbers should be allowed to ap})roacli so near the city and 
 l»ractise so many outrages.' 
 
 So tho\v was in'italinii alxuil this wound in the sidf 
 
' GOHILLS.' 
 
 329 
 
 seveml |iaitit's 
 not learn, was 
 Tlu' t()ll-;,fat(' 
 Wi! tru>l tluit 
 v\ anthorities, 
 y of thieves, 
 learn that the 
 ' lii,L;li\vay this 
 I'd and mlilicd. 
 and niilknieii, 
 n. Mr. I. M. 
 ur and a half 
 Is at his head, 
 300 dels., and 
 lorse, and left 
 The last he 
 lorsville Tload. 
 ill-jirate keeper 
 i to kill hinj, 
 i thonght that 
 The rol^bers 
 head witli the 
 
 Roail, Mr. S. 
 Loiiisville on 
 onev. As he 
 jback, and in 
 •ictims of this 
 eir leader as 
 tig a band of 
 the citv and 
 
 ill th 
 
 (' side 
 
 of poor old Kentucky, and her Southern friends were 
 striving .0 plug tlie wound. 
 
 The state of niilitiiiy uflUirs, as it appeared, was not 
 then favourable for the North, or for travelling from 
 Xortli to South. The Atlanta raid was going the way 
 <d' the Southern raid— back again ; and the draft was 
 not going on quite as well as might be wished in the 
 Western States. 
 
 What is the cause of all this evil ; this making and 
 shedding of ill-blood ? If it is not the dead pig, tl; pro- 
 vision trade, and pelf, is it philanthropy and the live 
 nigger ? 
 
 The ladies of Louisville are famed for their beauty 
 throughout the States, as I am told. Knglish and 
 French damsels are as fair, so far as 1 have been able to 
 ascertain. Shortly before leaving England, a fair young 
 Englisli girl arrived from France with the French polish 
 of the most select French millinery added to her numer- 
 ous charms. The newest of the French novelties brought 
 to bear upon dazzled male liebs by this fair young 
 damsel arrayed for conquest, was a black silken coat 
 with a white lining, shaped like a man's evening 
 swallow-tail, but adorned with sundry frills and ruches 
 set round the borders, whicli made it a truly feminine 
 garment of great elegance. No such garment had ever 
 
a;}u 
 
 AN AMKliU'AN TKA.MI'. 
 
 (Icli^htcd nuile eyes bd'oro, and certainly no sucli ^ar- 
 niL'nt uvui- v.'as seen licliind the Alleghany Monntains, 
 as I siipjiosed. One oi' the lirst things seen in i.duis- 
 villo was the outward Inrni oi' the frilled swaUow-tail 
 eoat, whieh was new in London in July. This specimen 
 oj' art Wi'.s sky-hlue, and beautitully made ; so was a 
 silken gown, so was a JKjnnet with a garden oi' llowers 
 and a nod(iing i)lume, so was a i»arasol over all. The 
 wearer was slight and graceful, and carrieel herself and 
 lier silken train with a light tripping gait. It was 
 im])ossil)le to resist trying for a peej) at the face of the 
 most beautiful of the beauties of Louisville, in the 
 Parisian fashion of the fairest of London ladies. Slid- 
 ing olf the pavement not to seem impertinent, I str(xle 
 through the dust, got ahead, turned incidentally to 
 look at a shop windo^v^, and saw — a nigger. She was a 
 regular darky, with l)lul)ber li]>s, disguised as 'the girl 
 1 left behind me.' 
 
 As 1 was ;.,'oing down de stroi-t, 
 
 Down dc street, down de street, 
 
 A dark lair sex 1 chanced to meet — 
 
 and there she walked on, ogling, this 'dark gal dressed 
 in blue.' 
 
 Is this the triumphant Bellona, the type of her race, 
 ctmsd frfcrrimc hcl/i, the Helen of the American war- 
 
HKLKN. 
 
 [\'M 
 
 Arc free Jiioii (Irurtfd to tVi'f cuslavtMl iiium'is^ Tlic 
 ivL'onls ol' L'Vi'iy-day lil'u tell ;i. (.lUli'ivnt tiiK' — 
 
 ' Diabolical MruoKii in IIkndkuson Col'ntv. — Tin- Owens- 
 Imii'i) Monitor (if \\'i'iliii'><liiy says : — 
 
 ' Mr. ( 'liailt's Wiul'i'i'V, ii wcultliy ainl liij^lily ir>jir('tc(l ciii/i-n 
 lit' IloiiiU'isiin county, was nmrtlcictl lust week umlcr the I'ulldw- 
 in;,' circuiustiincfs, as rdatcil to us. — A iiarty ot" nine luru, who 
 liad bfun drul'tcd in Imliaiia, went to Mr. W'iut'nv's rc^idciici' 
 ami lric(l to persuade or .-teal iVniu tlu-ii niasti.-r a sutliricnt 
 nuinlti'i' (d' ui'i^'ro nu-n to ivlicvc tlieni IVtiui tin- dral't. Tiny 
 niad(; .several atteiiiiils to accomplish their ipiiriMi>e, lad the 
 
 ueL'Voes CO 
 
 uld 
 
 not 
 
 nidurrd In leave 
 
 Thev also tl'ied tt 
 
 iiiliuudate Mr, W, liy telliiii,' iiiui they had unorder iVoni Cnloiiel 
 Moon, who coinniands at this post, for the ne^ine.- I'nr military 
 ilulv, l)Ut this had no ell'ect. Thev then left. Mr. WiidVev 
 
 called his .servants together and told them that the>e m. :> 
 
 wiaiitl 
 
 make their 
 
 Jipi 
 
 •ear 
 
 ance a'Miii, and if thev did nut desin; I 
 
 o uo 
 
 thev Would have to assist him in defendin'' themselv( 
 
 Th 
 
 they readily asseided to do, and a sii^riml was to he ^dveii hy 
 which tlu-y would be called to the main lluildin,l,^ A noi.-e 
 lieing heard on the prendses the same ni;j;ht, Mr. Winfrey ;,'ot n\> 
 and ojK'iied a side di>or to ^'ivc the alarm, when he was shot iiy 
 a man named i'eyton formerly of Henderson county, \\ho was 
 concealed near the door, killin;,' him almost instantly. A man 
 hy the name of Pi])es, ami another named liohhr, were amon^ 
 the accom}dices. They immediately lied to the ojtposite side of 
 the river, and have not as yet been arrested. As an evidence of 
 attachment existing' between Mr. Winfrey and his servants, we 
 will state that at the be^dninn;; of the war Mr. Winfrey divided 
 a lar<fe f<um of money among his servants and bade them take 
 and conceal it, whicli they did, and after he was killed, a~ we aie 
 iidurnieil. (500() dols. in gold and silver were brought li\ these 
 
:VA2 
 
 AN AMKUKJAN THAMT. 
 
 • » 
 
 ('iiitlit'ul iii'grw.s and ik'livtTcd uvlt tu tin- prupur persuii t(» 
 receive his effects.' 
 
 Nigger ivcniits arc stolen or taken, luit tiiey would 
 ratlier l)e lionsehold rIuvcs tliau l)e shot. 
 
 It is sweet and dee(»rons to die lor eountrv, but dis- 
 agreealtle to lio made to diti lor a di'al'ted somebody else, 
 wlio, as tlie song lias it, ' doesn't want to go.' 
 
 Tlie()reticallv, tli(> North is ll-jlitinLj to free niiif^ers ; 
 practically, it is doing nothing of the sort. Here are 
 more crumbs ot dail y Mvcad : — 
 
 * PoLiCK Prockedinos. — Wedihsdaij, Oct. 11, 1KG4. — Thomas 
 Mooro, drunk and disoixU'rly condiut. Tliree dcdlurs fine. 
 
 ' J. K. McUl'i', drunk luid disorderly conduct. Three dtdlurs 
 tine. 
 
 ' William Demph, disorderly conduct. Three didlans fine. 
 
 ' Marv Ilenh'V, drunk and disorderly conduct. One hundred 
 dollars bond for two inonthf<. 
 
 ' Sarah Ganaghty, drunk and disorderly conduct. One hun- 
 dred dollars bond for one montli. 
 
 ' Butler Smith, charged uitli aiduig Bill, a slave of (jruntcher- 
 man, to escape. Continued. 
 
 ' James Manning and Julia Muninng, charged with stealing 
 towels, sheets, &c., from J. P. Xevbith, worth over four dollars. 
 James discharged, Julia three hundred dollars to answer. 
 
 ' Elijah Bremer, fast driving. Finci live dollars. 
 
 ' Thos. Kiuch(dow, shooting Mary l^olau with intent to kill. 
 Four Inuidred dollars to answer. 
 
 'William, a slave of John Sunnuers, stealing a horse and 
 wagon from Mr. Rogers. William being a drafted man was 
 handed over to the militarv. 
 
FRKi:iM)M. 
 
 :^33 
 
 til stL'iiling 
 
 uiit to kill. 
 
 horse iiiid 
 man wa> 
 
 ' .Idliii ('(H.^'iiJV, stalihiii^' I'at. Flalitity with inttiit t«> kill 
 (,'oiitiiiui'il. 
 
 • lU'urv, .»iavf >>[' Mr. Mar>hall, -tailinj,' u coat Irom u woKlii-r. 
 Di.soliargfd.' 
 
 ' Cii'luin lion iininiain iiiutunt ([ui trrms iniire curruiit :' 
 — poor Tilt is (liuiik iind (.lisonlcrly. i)iit tiirci' cii.srs o\' 
 slavery iu one iiKjniiii^L,' do ni>t look very IVre. 
 
 As 111 
 
 icrc arc no old sd'ati'lics iii this district, atten- 
 
 tion was directed to Mack men, and ii trip was ornan- 
 isud for till' Maiiuiiotli Cave aiulllie lower re;.,Mons. 
 
 Not wishing to ^et involved in ihc fioht which was 
 coniin<r, we went no lurtlier on Tom Tiddler's iiroiind. 
 
 Here is a sample of stories told hy men wlio had lately 
 travelled throiinh the con(iiiere(l country in Southern 
 hounds, ^vllicll all descrihed as a howling wilderness of 
 hlackened houses, burned fences, and ruined farms, with 
 a ])(jpulation of soldiers, guerillas, and ruin -tl angry 
 liunnTv men. 
 
 'The J{Ain on the Lkxingtox I^vilroad. — From a gentle- 
 iiian who was a pas.>ic'iigt'r on the Kc'iitucky Central Railroad, 
 captured ei<;ht inilcs fi'oin Lexington on Tuesday nioriiing, wt; 
 learn the particulars of th(! raid. About 7 o'clock in the niorn- 
 iii'' the train was thrown from the track hv an ob>tructioa 
 
 ilaced 
 
 upon 
 
 the road. The cars were imniediatelv surrounded 
 
 by thirty armed men dressed in Conl'eclerate uniform, under 
 the connnand of Captain Pete Everett. 
 
 ' Tlie passengers were ordered from the trains, and ]i(rmitted 
 lo secure their baggage. As ii general thing, private property 
 
'AU 
 
 AN AM KIM CAN TRAM I'. 
 
 .«•• 
 
 was rc'spoctc'd. Tlii.' Mail A^ent preserved llie nii>st I'l' iIk' mail 
 under his charge, and carried it safely In Lexington, lint one 
 bug, as far as our informant cuuld learn, was cut open and rilled. 
 One of the guerillas took a watdi from the conductor, hut as 
 .soon as the loss was made known to Everett, Pete ]iroiu]ttly 
 ordert'd ihe watch to l)e returned to the owner. 
 
 'The Exjircss .safe was opened and rol>l>ed of jtackages of 
 money to the amount of two thousand three hundred dollars. 
 The ]iiivate j)a]ters of Ihe Coiujtany were not molested. Everett 
 claimed that the roMiing of tlu safe was strictly against his 
 orders, and told the messenger that, if Ik; would ])oint out tlu- 
 man guilty of the act, he would midvc hini refund the money, 
 and would ])unish him lor disuhi'dience of orders. 
 
 ' The messenger was unable to point out the robber, and 
 therefore the jtassoigers could not di'termine N\liether Pete wa- 
 sincere in what he said (»r not. Everett claimed that he did not 
 capture the train for plundei'. He said that he expected to liiid 
 Oeneval Burbridge and statf aboard, which was the only induce- 
 ment lie had in making the rai<l. He said that he had bei-u 
 watcliing the road for three days, in hopes of cajituriiig the 
 General. 
 
 ' Th" cars — three passengei', and tlie e\jin>s and baggage — 
 were set on lire and burned to the ground. The lnc(ininti\c 
 and tender were uninjured. Three Eecleral ofliccrs wvw (a]i- 
 turetl on board the tiaiii and carrie(l oil' as jirisoners of wai'. 
 We did not learn their names. The guerillas left in the direc- 
 ii'in of Mount Sterling. They told the jiassengers, in taking 
 their (h^parturi', that they were the advance of a large force of 
 I'eliels under Preckinridge, who was now in the State. This 
 aunouiicemeut was made with an air of bravado, and, as a matter 
 of course, is regarded as nothing but a monstrous stretch of the 
 truth.' 
 
 Ilaviiio' o'oiu' its far iiiidcrgToiiiKl us possibK' — ]ia\ iiig 
 
t I'f ilii' mail 
 
 III. Jillt (lIR- 
 
 I'll and rilled. 
 nct(tr, l)Ul a-^ 
 I'tc jinuiijitly 
 
 ]iackaf;t"s of 
 drcd dollars, 
 t'd. Kvcri'tt 
 ■ a,L;aiii>l lii- 
 )oiiit out tl li- 
 the iimiu'V, 
 
 rolilici', and 
 her l\'tc Wa- 
 lt 111' did not 
 X'cti'd til find 
 nnly iiidiu'i'- 
 lie liad bc'ii 
 [i]>fniiiij,' tile 
 
 d Itay^Mui' — 
 ' lnriini(iti\ !• 
 is wiM'i' caii- 
 ni'is (if war. 
 in till' dircc- 
 is, in taking' 
 ir^fo forcr (if 
 State. This 
 , as a matter 
 liefeh of the 
 
 \v — li;i\ iiii: 
 
 Tl'K C.MSK (IF TIIK W.v |{. 
 
 3;i,j 
 
 reached tho Styx an<l Uthr wit], a Idaek man for ^<,mi(]e, 
 and luivinn- crot safe out of tlie mess, the eau.se of Hie 
 Ameriean war seemed deeper and (hirker tluin ever. 
 
 Tlii.s-reat country is shechlin-- white Ido.id to wipe 
 "Ut tlic (hark stain of l.lack slavery, as it ajipear.s. 1 
 Iiave now .seen something- of tlie result. Some days a.L,^. 
 r spent a long niorninn- witli a very intelhgcnt darky, 
 who luid a white twilight glinnuering through his shiny 
 skin. Having gained Ids confidence 'some/ I ventured 
 t.. ask if he was a free man. ' Xo,' h.> .said, with the 
 echo of sorrow in his voice, '1 I.elongto a man in Xa.sh- 
 villefa town now held hy the North); and whih- you 
 ai-chere, I l.elong to you. I am hired ,nit to (h) this." 
 ' And do they give you anything for your Mork ?' ' Xo, 
 sir, nothing' The answer made the hlood of a IVee- 
 I'orn citizen glow, and drew a tip of course. That ,sai:ie 
 day I .saw a s])irit-.stirring sight. At the edge of a tall 
 forest, just heginning to turn from green to scarlet, 
 hcside a .still pool of clear water, smooth as a mirror, 
 •iiider a bright blue .sky, with the glorious hot October 
 sun of these Southern regions glowing on the autumn 
 l«'aves, a nigger regiment had pitched a snowy camp, 
 and the bright sun glitt(Mvd o,i the steel .d' tlieir 
 Nveapons, as it might gleam from the helm .d' a knight. 
 The slaves had taken up arms to light for libertv. Th.- 
 
33G 
 
 AN AMEKK'AN TRAMP. 
 
 ♦•* 
 
 officer in command puked liis ebony pliiz out of an ivory- 
 wliito tent, wiien I doffed my battered tile, and ii;ave me 
 lenve to insjjeot liis troops tlius : — ' "^ou men, let dis 
 man walk about.' Hurrah for liberty and equality I 
 We were ' men' and brothers. I walked about and 
 looked. One fellow as black as my boot was i)layinf^ 
 Scotch reels on a fiddle ; another was strumming on a 
 banjo ; a great many were singing and j)laying at vari- 
 ous games ; some were hacking beef, others cooking it 
 round a glorious camp-fire ; everybody was munching, 
 and griiniing, and chattering. One onlv seemed out of 
 humour with his work, and he was s]>litting firewood by 
 driving his fi.xed bayonet into a log, and rannning it home 
 against tlu^ ground. It was a glorious ha])]n' picnic oi' 
 idle thoufihtless beini-s ; and, though tho lofM)ractice 
 was bad for th(^ weapon, it might teach the sohlier to 
 strike home for freedom. 
 
 It was a picturesque sight, and one to make Tee 
 blood stir. But this Eembrandt-brown picture, wiOi 
 the glittering high lights in the foreground, had dee]i 
 shadows in the background. All is not gold that 
 glitters. I thought of the drafted men who stole 
 niggers for substitutes, and of the slave in the police 
 I'eport who was handed over to tiie military authorities. 
 
 At railway stations it was ordered in large ])rint 
 
' IK'IISUN'.S CIIUICK.' 
 
 3;C 
 
 tliat 'jio ivbel ur disloyal person .should bo allowod to 
 ship stock or produce on any railway car or steamboat;' 
 ' 110 loyal person Mitliout a permit,' etc. So it appeared 
 that loyal persons, even in disloyal States, inay trade 
 and own slaves ; but disl.^yal persons, even in Border 
 States, may do neither. This treeing of niggers is con- 
 fiscation. 
 
 It turns out that the black cattle in the camp had be- 
 longed to * disloyal persons,' and they have been set free ; 
 but, being free, they have been ' impressed,' and tliey were 
 only waiting their turn for slaughter, as happily as the 
 other live stock penned near them for their rations. 
 
 An Irish story tells tluit two Irishmen came to a 
 river with a pig, and the wiser addressed his comrade 
 thus : ' You carry me, Tat, and I'll carry the pig.' Here 
 as it seems the Chicago i)ig carries Pat to battle, and 
 Pat caiTies the nigger; but few care more for the 
 nigger in the fight which ensues than for the Chica-o 
 pig. It is a question whether the slave who got no- 
 ^-hing for his work or the impressed soldier was in the 
 best condition of life. 
 
 The condition of the l)]ack knight is unpleasant in 
 tliis chefpiered game. Tlie Irishman hates ; .ini, and says 
 so openly. In ( )lii.. a traveller who was an orator pro- 
 tested against giving political rights to coloured men. 
 

 AN AMKUR'AN TRAMP. 
 
 4 • 
 
 
 ' If they do that I'll get upon every beech-stump in the 
 state — and I reckon I know them all pretty nigh — and 
 
 1 '11 tell the darned' etc. etc. 
 
 No white soldier will fraternize with the nigger. T 
 overheard a soldier's conversation at Indianapolis. One 
 asserted that he had seen a nigger in the ranks of a 
 white regiment ; the other, with a string of expletives, 
 denied the fact as perfectly impossible. * The man that 
 woidd say that is a . . . cuss.' In Kentuck}?- I 
 saw a very respectable woman, who had lieen head cook 
 at a large hotel, hoisted into the luggage-van with other 
 chnttels, and I rather envied her, liecause I was nearly 
 crushed, and partially choked, in my dignified place 
 among the white sovereign people. I see chihlren 
 black and white fraternizing everywhere ; I have frater- 
 nized with niggers myself in many lands. There is no 
 real antipathy of race ; that is sufficiently proved by 
 the complexion of three-fourths of the coloured people, 
 But here in the West strong political antipathy breaks 
 out eveiy\vhere. Among his allies a black soldier is 
 ill off when taken from a rebellious master in a Border 
 State, freed and impressed. He can hope for scant 
 mercy from Soutliern masters, if he gets to the front 
 and meets regular troops. He seems to have a bad 
 time of it everywhere. 
 
 
TIIK \VAH-( Lori). 
 
 :VM) 
 
 ^ But in the Uurd.r >Statt.,s--.Missuuri, Kentucky, an.l 
 West Virginia— he has to meet cruel fV.es. The whole 
 country is overrun l,y armed binuls, mIio are always 
 called 'gorillas' in this vernacular. They are a roui^h 
 lot generally. A worthy farmer told me that ho hid 
 been robbed of horses and cattle, and that he expected 
 to find aU he had 'swept,' for there harl been a rai<i near 
 his place. A young citizen remarked that he never 
 took his watch out fV,r a country walk. A stage-driver 
 'reckoned that staging was pretty nigh paid out in this 
 State.' He had only been stoj^pe.l once ; they took 
 the horses and harmed no one. ' (},) along.' At Louis- 
 ville, under the very noses of a small army, the raiders 
 robbed. ' Society is tundding to pieces in these States.' 
 'Gorillas' may be deserter.s, robbers, murderers, cut- 
 throats, hor.se-thieves, foot-pads-men who belong to 
 neither party: seme wear Southern unif,n-ms, and" are 
 ' l)ushwliackers,' waging irregular war; there are speci- 
 mens of all kind.s, of course, but they all destroy rail- 
 roads and shoot niggers. One chief has lately killed 
 near upon half a dozen black men, because, a.s he says, 
 'he likes to see them fall.' So, the j.icture of a great 
 nation shattermg the fettei's of slavery , which looked so 
 grand and bright at a distance, seems all shadow on 
 close inspection. The war seems to he one for the 
 
340 
 
 AN AMKHICAN TltAMP. 
 
 iiljolitioii of slavery by (.'xtcrniiiiating rebels and niggers 
 with ainiies of Western conscripts who object to fight. 
 Every Jnrk clond has a silver lining ; good may come 
 out of rM tliis ill, l)ut this war-cloud is a dense oiu', 
 and the silver as hard to see as Yankee gold, or the 
 dark reason of the war. 
 
 ' Sir,' said a Yankee to me one day, ' 1 should like 
 to know your opinion about this war.' ' Sir,' said 1, ' 1 
 hope you will not be oflended if I give you my true 
 opinion.' ' No, sir,' said the other ; ' it is always in- 
 teresting to hear the opinions of foreigners.' 'Well, sir,' 
 said 1, ' begging your pardon beforehand, you have the 
 finest country I ever saw, plenty of room, corn, cotton, 
 coal ; plenty to eat, and might be the greatest people 
 on earth : and yet you fight the biggest battles ever 
 fought, and do more harm to yourselves than any 
 people ever did to a foe in the same short time. T 
 think you are darned fools for fighting ; and that's my 
 opinion.' The Yankee scratched his head, and then 
 a smile came over his phiz, and he spoke : ' Wal, 
 maybe that's so.' 
 
CllAPTEK XVll. 
 
 LOUISVILLE TO CAVE CITY. 
 
 The countrv between Luuisville and Cave City is very 
 like parts of Devoiisliiie. Tlie railroad, like its Kn<,'- 
 lish brother in the Old Country, climbs hills and walks 
 ovi!r ravines on tall scaiTolds. After crossini.' a wide 
 l)lain near Louisville, it runs up the western side 
 of a large ravine, and crosses a number of lateral 
 gorges to an upper plateau, which is about 30U feet 
 above the Ohio. The rock is a blue-gray fjssiliferous 
 limestone, arranged in beds, which arc nearly horizontal, 
 and it is ranked as Devonian l»y American geologists. 
 It is the ][[) of the basin which liolds the coal of the 
 northern field. All surfaces are weatlicred. Upon this 
 upper plateau arc conical hills, ami on the highest 
 grounds the limestone is bare. The weathering of rock- 
 surfaces in tliis tract is very instructive. The limestone 
 is worn bv rain into miniature mountain-chains, with 
 valleys and ])caks iind ridges, whieh within the space of 
 a lew feet or inches mimic the shape of Alps. A s'ab 
 
342 
 
 AN AMKHICAN TKAMI' 
 
 of this weathered limestone might be taken as a model 
 of some mountain region. By lowering the eye to the 
 edge of a Hat .stone, so as to bring the horizon down to 
 the foot of a miniature mountain, the stone is seen to 
 have the same form as the country of which it fornis 
 part. Ijith seem to have been sculptured by falling 
 ilia tnd flowing waters. Upon this uneven weathered 
 linic^lune base some ten feet of reddish clay are spread. 
 These boat of clay contain very few stones, and no 
 scrap of azoic rock was found anywhere. The rivers 
 are muddy, for they are washing the clay off the lime- 
 stone. This country might sink and rise a dozen times 
 without changing the course of rivers. When it sank, 
 the river would be abolished of course ; when it rose, 
 the rain would begin again, and the rivers would follow 
 the old drains. The sliape of the country may be ex- 
 pressed by 
 
 • 1 
 
 u 
 
 u 
 
 u 
 
 u 
 
 '^' 
 
 straight lines for plateaus covered with mud; steep- 
 sided grooves, 300 feet deep, for river-courses ; and 
 cone.s, 200 feet high, fur bald limestone hills. According 
 to the barometer, Cave City is 200 feet above Louisville ; 
 and the liighest point reached, a bare hill-shoulder near 
 (lie station, wa.^ about b^O. Add the height of Louis- 
 
ML'L) AND MUKAINK.S. 
 
 343 
 
 ville 361, and 911, the level, carried northwards, passes 
 over the highest ground on the :\lichigan liaihvay. TI :• 
 nearest northern land of equal lieight is beyond U'h 
 Superior, in the land of azoic rocks. There is no 
 symptom of glacial action here; but the clay beds 
 spread over the rock have to be accounted for. They 
 cannot be old deposits ; if they were, the rain would 
 have washed all Kentucky as clean as the rock-road to 
 the cave, and the clay would be . '^e Gulf of ^Mexico, 
 or elsewhere, by this time. / nia v carries stones of 
 all sizes to its furtliest limit, >\ ^lere builds a breast- 
 work of cones and ridges of cla} , n.ud, sand, scratched 
 stones, and great masses of .. !\ and rubbish, all shot 
 together, heaped up in piles. 
 
 The terminal moraine of the polar glacier ought to 
 be somewhere, if it ever existed ; but it is not here. A 
 stream of water, laden with ice-lloats iind moraines, 
 carries the lieavy rubbish as far as the ice lasts, and 
 washes lighter stuff as far as it can after the ice melts. 
 Ice-floats oir Spitzbergen, Greenland, Labrador, and 
 Newfoundland, carry stones and mud to hit. 40° 30' 
 (see p. 3), and may carry them to 37° 10' (see p. 2) ; but 
 wherever the ocean-cun-ent flo^vs, it nmst carry sus- 
 pended mud, because rain-drops carry mud from ^lin- 
 nesota to ^lexico. The ]\Iammoth Cave is in 37° 
 
o44 
 
 AN \.Mi:i;i( AN ti;a\ii' 
 
 10', >villiin a ik><,a'eu of Uie lutitiuk' of the last of C'aiitaiii 
 Coutlioiiy's iccbiTf^'s; iiiul tlic Arctic Cunviit would 
 ^spread a slu. t of fine mud over Kcntuc '^y if icc-lloats 
 lucltcd about lat. 40°, over land now called Illinois, 
 Indiana, and Ohio. No boulders had been seen south of 
 lat. oO^ The next cast was northwards, about lat. 40°, 
 because the last bit t>f a northern rock was seen about 
 :^9" 20', near St. Louis. 
 
 The rocks thus far seem to recortl that America sank 
 deej) enouj^di for the Arctic (.'urrent to iluw over it ; did 
 not stav down long enou«'h for sea-shells to grow in anv 
 great numbers ; rose again with a top-dressing of mud 
 and drift, and rose so lately that the mud has not been 
 Nva.shed olf the weathered limestone of ( )ld Kentucky. 
 This region is like a rabbit-warren, in that it is full (tf 
 holes. About twenty caves are known, and one of them 
 has bcconH? famous. It has the unusual advantage of a 
 short guide-book, written (1800) by a clever man,* 
 instead of a tourist touting for inns. The jMammoth 
 is so called because of its size. Mammoths' bones were 
 found at some other [>lace in Kentucky, but bats' bones 
 are the biggest yet found underground. The cave is 
 \vater-scui[>tun' of the same kind as the sculpture on 
 
 * Charles W. Wright, M.[)., Piofessor of (."liemiMiy, otf., in 
 K( iituckv aiiil Ohio. 
 
.MAM.Miiril ^■\Vl:. 
 
 :u:. 
 
 the t.,p,s of thf hill., oiit.si.ks and in the W-ds <,f rivers 
 below it. lii-iiiniuu at the hutel, ul.oiit 200 feet hi-her 
 tlian Lnui.sviUe, oGO above the sea. and near the Tevel 
 of Chicago, tlie cave -(.es down— the following table will 
 show how much : — 
 
 iinruuifttr. 
 
 IMa.r. 
 
 DiirticriiM 
 o 
 
 F.M.f. 
 
 Ti'fal Initii Miit'iicf 
 
 2!)-4O0 
 
 PliltfJlU . . 
 
 
 o 
 
 O (l(i\\ li, 
 
 2U-')(U) 
 
 Mnlltll 
 
 
 lou 
 
 !J0 
 
 !»0 .. 
 
 2i*(;oo 
 
 iJicIiaiil.-uii's S[t 
 
 I'iiJ;; 
 
 200 
 
 !M 
 
 INO „ 
 
 2!)-7oo 
 
 J (Jivat IJ.liif 
 1 Ilarnii ( '||,,iiiIm 
 
 •I- 1 
 
 ;3oo 
 
 !M) 
 
 270 .. 
 
 2i>:.-)0 
 
 Li the IIJNtr 
 
 
 y.')!) 
 
 4.-) 
 
 ;5 1 ') u|i. 
 
 2!>-4r)0 
 
 Allii-rliair . 
 
 50 
 
 r> 
 
 -1.") (IdUii, 
 
 2!)-too 
 
 .Mnlltli . . 
 
 
 100 
 
 !>0 
 
 1"> „ 
 
 2!)-05O 
 20-2r»O 
 
 ( I'lccu HiviT 
 
 Until . . . 
 
 
 :ir.o 
 ino 
 
 22.", 
 1:55 
 
 2:^.") up. 
 
 Biivoinoter I'allm wliilu uii.hT-r.aiiKl and <lunn- the day 0-1 r.o 
 inch, cpial to 135 feet. Kaiu iu the evuuUK, and lu-aw lai,. 
 iif.xt day. 
 
 We .started at <J.2n a..m. At 10.7, a mile and a 
 qimrtc^r S.E., down ISO feet, we halted at Uicliard.son'.s 
 Spring, The Sidesaddle Pit, 110 fe.-t deep, has tine 
 ilutings above and Ixdow the hole throuoh which it i.s 
 seen ; it is very beautiful when liohtcj. Tin' bottom- 
 less Pit is Kio feet deep, nn<l is, like the other, a rilled 
 
:w, 
 
 AN AMKKICAN' TKA.MI'. 
 
 tube huivd in the yolid rock, with the ilillerent beds 
 .showing like courses of masonry. Fiit ^fiin's Misery is 
 an underground copy of streams near the Perte lUi IHione 
 in Switzerland, in Wales, in the Wiiite Mountains, and 
 in this country. It is a steep-sided trench U in a 
 plateau, but roofed with a Hat water-worn roof. Crreat 
 Relief is 270 l)elow the hotel, not quite a mile and three- 
 qnartin's from the mouth. Here the direction changes 
 to S.W. liiver Hall and Jiacon Chamber are specimens 
 of water-woik like Fat Plan's Misery, but this time in 
 the roof. Channels three feet deep have been cut, and 
 then the whole lloor has been cut away and down, 
 leaving the divisions hanging like bacon in a store- 
 room. 
 
 Inranduin Hcgina jubes ronovjire doloreiu. 
 
 Am I to be haunted by the shade of that scalded 
 Chicagtj pig even here ? 
 
 Course south, and down to Lethe, 315 feet bek>w 
 the hotel, and supposed to be level with CJreen Kiver 
 outside. The water runs south-east, two miles and a 
 ([uarter from daylight. 
 
 The rock in this chand.ter is worn like rock in the 
 su))terranean river which was cut through in Park j\Iine, 
 in Wales. No one knows where the water comes from ; 
 Itut wlicn the (Ireeii Kiver rises,, the Lethe does tiie 
 
i.r.TiiK. 
 
 :U7 
 
 saUR', and tliu mud in both i« iiiiul washod rrinii tlic to[» 
 Dut.sido, and droppod in the rivor. It is iR'i'idiaily still', 
 toui^li, sticky tiill'. A l)()at was in it swaniju'd by a 
 fall in tlu! stream. Tlio ^vat(■l• was thick as pea-soup, 
 and there was no chance of catcliinj; an eyeless fish. 
 The cave beyond I.cthe is but a rcju'tition of the first 
 part. We h.'ft the boat and Lethe in the mud, and rc- 
 turneil. Fossils are so wcathcri-d in this place that 
 )me were broken from tlie wall ; one was attache(l by 
 
 S( 
 
 a tenth of an incli of limestone, the rest of •*, ]»roJected 
 more than an inch, perfect as wiieu it was biirii'il ; 
 others wen' peeping,' out (tf the rock, others Mere half 
 out ; and so the river-mud must contain numbers of un- 
 nu'lted fossils, the iiisuluble refuse of disscdved lime- 
 stone rock. On the way baik branched ofl" into side 
 galleries to seethe Star-Chamber, theClothic Chapel, and 
 other lions, and eot to ^rass after lixc hours. Walked 
 six miles by pedometer, seven according; to the guide's 
 reckoning. AVent down-hill to fJreen IJiver Jind fcaind 
 the stream running S.W., at right angles to Lethe. The 
 long round is said to be a tramp of si.xteen miles. 
 
 r>y way of experiment, took the lead on the way 
 back, and told the darkv to follow and sav nothiii<j. 
 Though well used to underground work, and provided 
 with an ornau of localitv that seldom fail.->, and with a 
 
;U8 
 
 AN AMKUK AN 'I'lJAMI' 
 
 » • 
 
 <tiiiil)ii.s.s to Itoot, 1 was lust ill tun uiiiiiites. It is sup- 
 posed llint tills single euve has a total length oj" gal- 
 levies equal to KM) miles. ( )ni' hunilnnl ami lit'ty 
 avenues have heeii e\|tlore(l. No nia[> ol' it has hcen 
 adcinptcd, and generally it is still an unexplored natural 
 mini'. In all ])rol»al)ilit y all the eaves and all the riveis 
 ill Kentucky eonimunieatc.' with eacdi other, with tlu* 
 Mississijipi. and with the u])per air. The ventilation ol' 
 tliis mine is perfeel. It is said to hreathe i*uvv a year ; 
 liiit the salt-mines in ("heshire iln the saini; i'or the same 
 re;isiin. In summer, aeeording to the ducidr. when the 
 tempcirature of the external air is ahove that of tla; eave 
 the current st-ts out, when the temperature outside is 
 helow o'.i" the ciii'rent sets in ; in spring and fall, w hen the 
 temperature is liaiiinced, the air stagnates jnr a few days 
 or hours. As there is a current, there must also he a 
 jtassagi' through. In summer, when the tempi-rature is 
 Ileal' loo", the cold air at '»'.)" tumhles out at the mouth 
 with sucli fiirce as to hlow out the lamj)s in the narrows. 
 Kiirther in, the motion in larger halls is impereeptihle. 
 Tile air is perfectly ]iuri', perfeetly still ; no ray of light 
 ever gi'ts in no sound louder than the llap of a hat's 
 wing is lieaid in tla' dry galleries, and here --oini' M'ise- 
 acre thought lit to lodge consumptive patients. The 
 1 1' creature-- pimd and diecf ;iiid their houses arc 
 
''NliKlK.IMrxi) Koi.K, 
 
 34'.» 
 
 
 h'ft .standing' ivc.nls of an uiisiarcssrul niclical rxj-cri- 
 
 IllCllt. 
 
 In tlio eav(> arc bats, of coiirso ; rats a siz(. lur-cr 
 than N(3rvvay rats, witli licad and oycs like a rabbit and 
 back liair like a gray s(niirr('l— Icg.s and abdomen wliit.' ; 
 also cave-crickets. TIicsu are curious monsters, blind, 
 and api.arently deaf and (bnnb. Tlioy d<. not stir f,,r 
 noisG or liglit, but they iiave enormous antenme, far 
 hMiger than tluy are, aiul llie snudlest toucli on tli.'sc 
 awakens tlie sleoj.y cricket. ( 'ave-li/ards an- fr.mi thiee 
 to live inches lon.u', yellow, with black spots, and semi- 
 transparent. The eye is large and ].rominent, and tluy 
 arc shi.ugisli in their movements. Eyeless lisli und craw- 
 fish are Ibund in Kcho jlivcr. Tli(> jish an' vivij-arous, 
 have rudinK'Ulsol'cyus, I,ut no optic nerve. The lydess 
 crawfish spawn bke other crustaceans, and both aiv ])er- 
 fectly white. Ordinary hsh and crawfish are sometinu-s 
 washed in, and frogs may be heard croaking in this 
 ivgion. The eyeless hsh oat each otl 
 
 ler, and resembh 
 
 th 
 
 e Co 
 
 mmon catlish, but rarely exceed eight inci 
 
 10 
 
 in 
 
 length. Human patitmts who remained in the cave foi 
 three or four months i»resented a friglstful ai.pearance 
 The face was entirely bloodh-ss, eyes snnk.'U. pupil> 
 
 egree that the iris ceased to \>r visible: 
 
 dilated to such ad 
 
 so 
 
 that, no matter what tlu' oiiuinal colour of tl 
 
 le eyt! 
 
.>;> 
 
 
 
 AN AMI'.KKAN I'KAMI' 
 
 iiiiL^lit liavcj bt'i'ii, it soon apjR'uivil Mack. IT, instead ul" 
 living' lor soniu niontli.s, and dyin^f in a few days after 
 l('avin«]j tli(,' cave, ahcahliy tribe of tiiLi-^crs were tol»reed 
 tliore, and U^vd upon each other — as do the fisli, crawli-li, 
 crickets, lizards, l»ats, and rats — a new human species of 
 ' Undcrjordiske' nii<^lit peoph' Kentucky down-stairs. 
 W'lien warm water comes in, a fo;^ as thick as tlie fo|^'s 
 olf Newl'ouiulland setth'S on tlie dark waters of Letlie. 
 
 Til 
 
 he cave-world has its own system of atnio.-, iieric 
 circulation — its evaporation and condensation, clouds, 
 rivers, denudation ;ind de[)osition, chemical and mecha- 
 nical wcariuLjof rocks, its own fiiuna,and a tloi'a of fun^i. 
 Alto^'etiicr it is a very (pieer place to wander about in, 
 with a bkuk slave for innlns /net, ami a 'wonderful' 
 ])etroleum ' lam]>.' 
 
 In lh(^ Star-( 'handier an illustration of 'su^^'^^'estion ' 
 is cnactetl. The roof is hi<;h and black, ami peojde Imve 
 pelted it with stones, so that white spots are laid bare. 
 The otliciatin^ black ])ricst [ircjtares the toiM'ist mind by 
 lonj^f jtauses and preparations, and total darkness ; and 
 after a time he a.ssure.s his followrs that they see stars 
 and a comet, clouds and a storm. Mv obstinate eves 
 woidd see nothing but blackened stone, white chii)S,and 
 the shadow of a threat rock, or of a black blockhead 
 
 mi 
 
 niu'r over the darkness of the roof ; but these 
 
 Oil- 
 
A STATi: I'.AI.I.. 
 
 y.r.i 
 
 stinatc ])(3('])('is never will se(^ inesnieiic inurvcls — so 
 tlioy iire t<» lilnnie. 'I'lie iiiajniity wlio ^^o to the Star- 
 riiiiniber return deliL^^liled \vitli tlie view, wliieli is saitl 
 to rival tlie vault <A' u\'j}\\. The coal-liole, with iina^'i- 
 nation, would iiroduoo tho same ell'ect. 
 
 Thereare hut lew stalactites in the Maninioth Cave. ami 
 these jew are smoked and spoiled ; iiut within a mile of 
 it is another (ave, in which the limestone formalitois are, 
 il" |i(K>ili|c, more lieautil'ul than those of AdelsllerL,^ 
 An artist mi-^ht sit here I'oi- I. ours aiMon;jst the ca\e- 
 crichets, ami h-iirn design IVom nature. I'lndlc'^s curves 
 and hollows, eu|is and hasins, |ieiid;iuts and strange 
 hraiudun;^; erowths of puri' white alalia^ter, mij^lit havi> 
 sn<.,'ifesleil to Some AVestern stor\-telli'r the sil\( r ti'ees 
 and jewi'llcd iVuit oj' Aladdin's cave. That ( oul'duuiled 
 \'ank<'e custom ol" tackiu',^' men's names to natni'al curi- 
 osities has nicknametl this ^^rotto White's (.'ave ; and all 
 other cavos are temjile^ in which some snoh or other is 
 enshrined. 
 
 In 1.S4.") th<' (i)ueen of Mn^hunl ejive a state-ltall, at 
 which the f^uests a]i)ieared in the dress of 17 to I Mv.ss, 
 decorations, and dancin;^', were ol' the [Miiod ; imd some 
 ardia-oloi^dcal dancine-master disfovcred that in 1 7 1 "• 
 Srotcdi ]ieo|(le danced solenm straths|ieys. A lot of 
 Scotch ]ieo|»le, under the ejuidance ol' tlii> tcijisirhorean 
 
:\r>'2 
 
 AN AMKUKAX TRAMI'. 
 
 initi([Uiiry, got up a stra(lisj>ey, wliicli Nvas danced hiuli 
 and (lisposcdly bclorc tlic (,)iic('n. After 174.', ' Idval' 
 Scot ell peo])le were sent to AiiU'rica as a pnnisliinciit. 
 ill I.S1I4 one of the strathspey j)arty went to Anieriea 
 fi)i' a ploy, and the landlord of the hotel at tin; Mamniolh 
 ('ave ]»ropose(l that his guests should dance, and they 
 danced aecor lingly. The wliole company iiundiered 
 eight. Ilcfore tlie war, they often nuiulieivd hundreds. 
 Two ilritishers, the landlord and a ^' dikee, two ladi<'S 
 from Nashville, and two from down-stairs, com])OSed tiie 
 hall. 'i'he music was a tiddle, ai.d tlu' ])"vformer a 
 darky <lress('d like ,1 lord P.esidc^ h'i' sat an oniciiil 
 who was a, new (diaractei. In S<.otei.' ' hurches wliciv 
 
 peo])le cannot all read, the f. 
 
 on 
 
 fur tl 
 
 le preccnt(/r 
 
 to n']H>at a line hefoie it is sung, ^'cre was a man wli< 
 calli'd out tli(; ste])S hefore the ' er'.' danci d, foi peojih 
 
 w 
 
 ho did not all know h^w ^» do 
 
 Ife called them 
 
 o 
 
 ut in a , !? giM:- high key, like that of a L')ndon toa> 
 
 niast( 
 
 ai 
 
 id 'iiime i in with the Kddle as well as h 
 
 couhl. Then' was something irresis'ihly funny in th* 
 w'lole thing. A coujdo of very ill-dressed Knglishmen 
 
 nod 
 
 a very well-dressed niggvr ; a tall, W( 11-made, 
 humoured colonel <»f e ivalry turned imi-keej»er ; a little 
 Yankee, and four (diarming kdies, gravely ]K'rfoiniing 
 solemn dances, and making conver.sation in a vast 
 
:, 'luyal' 
 
 isliiiK lit. 
 
 Aiiicrir;! 
 
 laniiiiotli 
 
 niid llicy 
 
 luinltori'il 
 
 iuikIic'Is. 
 
 A'O liul!<'S 
 
 |)Oscd lilt' 
 ioriiH'V a 
 111 olVieial 
 ics will' re 
 preccnli'i" 
 mail Avlio 
 
 I ]>('()] ill' 
 ■d tlirin 
 )ii t(iasl- 
 
 II as hi' 
 V in tilt' 
 islnnrii ; 
 
 <>, 'j,nt)il- 
 
 , a little 
 rruriniiiL,' 
 I a vast 
 
 AN nl.l) KKMlt KV HKKl,. \^^>'-'> 
 
 wooden hall, likf a tl.'curatetl liani in tin' linkw U 
 
 At it we idl wi'Ut. Vl\l^T;j>)}f (n thr frnnt. [{uiii tidv 
 idy — rum titlv idv -rum tidv idv. lIlcHT Imnil to 
 
 j/ni'i' jtiirt)} 
 
 1 1 , 
 
 T 
 
 inn iuW it 
 
 iv -t 
 
 11)11 titlv niv --♦inn 
 
 titly idy. TritN fhr jir.^f hd/)/. Iluiii — , ami so on till 
 tlie eoiinlry dance was i-mled. At it we wi-nt, iininnuT 
 
 cw 
 
 aiitl tongs, ami at it we ki'jd for son-e lionis. I kn 
 the (laelie name of iit'arly cviTy tune tlic ni^'ufi" plavitl. 
 At last, by ^('iitTal eons.'nt, it was dctcnnim d to da;i< .* 
 somothiiiLj new ami ;iatioiial, ami it was eaii . d i>y 
 ac'(?laniiition that wo shoiiM tlanee an ( )ld Kinimky 
 reid. The tlark Orpheus tuckftl !iis hariiiton imkIci' Ins 
 
 ohin, rosined his bow, ami strntk n 
 
 strath 
 
 iSllCV 
 
 Til 
 
 master of revenionit'S shoutt^tl, Ai.i, r/r?//., fo tJn- ri(jht. .'P 1 
 ofl' we set at seore — cjents and la lifs— ri^dit and hi'', 
 
 toll 
 
 \o. Very t'i^Lilitsoim^ ri'el wliidi was tlaiiei 
 
 ti hi 
 
 disposetUy in 1 S tT* lu'lbiv the (,)iiei'n of Kmjl' 
 in 1.74."» at Ilolvronil ht'forc i'lim-e ( 'liavK'V., 
 
 am 
 
 In, alio 
 
 Are \\t' 
 
 not all men and hrtitlii'rs — llritislit'tv', Vaii- 
 
 ind ill 
 
 ivci'S, ami niLi'^er slaves f a 
 
 of Lethe in 18<'.4, bef.-iv tlit; bl 
 
 th 
 
 we (laiifi' on i lie rot> 
 
 eooiv 
 
 honit 
 
 'whi'iv in the wiM p .rii', a eountry damst'l, 
 
 wh^n asked to tlanee. njili 
 
 It I 
 
 s sail 
 
 1, • Voii 
 
 Iry up 
 
 and go along, tlt\ I rt-ckon 1 vi gotif four stpiares and a 
 loumhand I'm moist alreails ; miess 1 shan't dnii 
 
 ) f->' 
 
 ic'- again. 
 
 J A 
 
 .*•::■■: ^ 
 
 ]l^^,v ■'\l-^. 
 
:i:.l 
 
 AN AMI'lMt \\ I l; WW. 
 
 •■• 
 
 l.ikf III r. I ivi kiiii \\c wt'iv ( ousidcialils insist, mimI 
 liiul tn • li(|iii.r ii|. suiiir ' iiftci' the < )|il Kciituckv rrcl. 
 'CjiiitiiMt \ariui> (tii.iiu laliMiir viatnr." 
 
 Cave City cniisists nf tlifcc sliojis, three dwi'lIiiiLr- 
 litMisL's, .Iircc cat iiiu-li(»iist's, tlirt'c ln^ sliaiitirs, ami a 
 railway station ; Imt, like tlic |iri<'st, tlic I'l iar. aii-l fin' 
 silly iild mail, wli(» wint \n a uanltn uju re three |Mars 
 <^\v\\, titok <iiH' apiece, ami yet lel't two pears. ('a\e ('it\ 
 (•((iisists ul' three shanties, wliieh may he sariuiislv de- 
 seiihed. A ea ] »it al di iiiiel' i- to he ^nt tlaiv, aiid tin- 
 hnidiord is a fiuhl uood Icllow " ( ieiit h'liieii,' he said, 
 ^ have y 111 aiivthi' 'x \aliiahle ahniit ymi {' in an\ nth' r 
 eoiiiitis <i|" husliwliai'keis this wiiidd have ht I II a sii.s|ii 
 eious tju<'>t inn ; lure, the landlord's !aee \s as a ei It ilie.ite 
 ol' hi'ii'^sty, and the an»\\er was • \'es.' • \'oii had hettei 
 leave what yoii eai'e to lose with me,' >aiil the landlord ; 
 iUld so we nave him ,1 hail U'nl ol' loose ^ aiikee i^oid and 
 ihe uiilotdved p(ti t maiilea I with the Miiulish soveiciu;!!'^ 
 inside of It ( >u riliirniiiL;. we •,|,itliereil up our ucar, 
 and ihanked om hanker. 
 
 The Maninioth ( ';ive i-> a lavoinite suninier ic'^iai, 
 
 mileh rre<|Ue||teil 111 peart llll times hv liell citi/ellN I'l 
 
 rieh towns in tliis lieji ^t.ite; and the road to it may he 
 taken as a lair sample o|' i..iinli\' roails. It is a nieiv 
 traek III .1 hard wond (oicst, with a pretty thirk under- 
 
 
iiKcitrirs. 
 
 .>.) 
 
 •ky iTtl. 
 
 ■ (Iwi'lliii'i 
 tics, iiml a 
 ar. .lU'l til'' 
 thivf |>r:u'- 
 , Ciivi- «'it\ 
 U'inlislv <!'■ 
 
 IV, ainl til'' 
 I'll,' li<" saiil, 
 !ii aiiv -'ll!''i' 
 (11 a s>is|ii 
 , a ri'itiiiral"' 
 II liail lifltci 
 L' laiulliii'l , 
 
 I i| aia 
 
 ;i'i' i.i"i 
 
 1 SMVl'lCl'^llS 
 
 \ (lur ut'iii', 
 
 llUlliiT Vcsiill, 
 
 (•iti/.<'ii> "I 
 Itu il uiav !•«• 
 t is a iiM'Vf 
 
 huu 
 
 iiiiil'i 
 
 ^'i.iw I h .){ scnil» aiitl trailing i»laiits. ( 'r(i'|»cis liaiiu tu 
 th*' lii!.jlii'st liriuiclii's III' tall trees, ami it is liaitl !<• iiii- 
 
 (lel'stailtl !m>\V, ill lllr liailif uf rnrtllllr, tllcV L't't tllt'lV, 
 
 iiiili'ss l.rc«' ami cnM'iuT ui'nw tn^ct iici'. A tliiiiuas lliick 
 )is a iiipc, and as loii^^ as a tici-, • aiiihit stand ainiic ; and 
 yet sue h tliiiiLts have their l>ranelics inierlaeid with the 
 '(i|>!iiusl »\vius III' tall tree.v, and >\vmu lite i»t other snp- 
 jiort lioni runt to hratieh, Aecordiiiu to thi' aecoimts of 
 mm who toMuht with Sliiiinaii on !ii^ advance to At- 
 lanta, tiiis is t Ic kind o|' eouniiA iiiwliiih liattlfs Were 
 Inu^lit and a Ioiil; adsamc niadr. The i looji^ had no teiits. 
 
 ■tiuht- 
 
 hllt 
 
 made liowei's o! hranelio, ami lihl ifunlar imsli 
 
 in^. At siirh work, an Anii'ricaii arm\ urfath r\rc|s one 
 irernitcd 111 l'airo|H'. Tli> .,iiro|iiMii is 1m. m and hifd in 
 a house, and i'^ iisnl to have cv nvt liiiiL; done lor lnm. Il 
 a ineciianie is lodufd imdi r a Icilu"'. i>r il a |i;oi|m1' ^rts 
 
 aid Tare in Micdaiid, we hear ahoiit it. !'1\ ri\ \vl 
 
 a IV III 
 
 Aimrira, lAii'iit in tic laiuf Io\\m>, imii art' to kt ioiiiid 
 
 will* live I liiells on 
 
 t ol d 
 
 oor 
 
 Mild 1 \ III |il(lllr I 
 
 lit le 
 
 nl'lowii ladies think not Inii'.; o| i'ani|>in'_; mit lor a iicdil 
 
 or two 111 sumiiii'i. 
 
 W 
 
 It'll an I 'Id ( 'oiiiit I \ \Ma\ rv 
 
 down in hi'> link, enlists, ho e\|iect-! to hf well |Md<_;t d 
 III a I'ointoi lalil' w ''ll-Ni-nt iki'i'il room, with a Ixil in il 
 
 Il I 
 
 II' e> Jiol w !■ hi-a I a' unit it ajaili 
 
 W 
 
 Hii t Ic ^aim 
 
 iiid ol man I'liiC'iali- Ic soon li-.iins lo itiicjh it, \> htii 
 
'Ar>r, 
 
 AN' AMKUICAN TUAMT. 
 
 • ~ . * 
 
 t • 
 
 lie liMS lu do t'Vi'i'ylliiiiL; lor hinisi'lf, and i)ay lor it, lie 
 learns to do ^vitIl vciv littli' ; and when he eidists, and 
 eanips out, and ehojjs wood, and sleeps on tlie ground, 
 lie is (Ioiiil;- iiothinLj out of the ordinary routine ol" his 
 dailv life at home. A luiiilx'iiii'j; train of ba«'}'a«'e- 
 WMLjj^fons would find Anieriean hackwood ways rathe;* 
 niii'v and rocky ; hut the country carts which haul farm 
 |»roduce over these ways can also haul provisions. The 
 woods pro\ide fuel and shelter, the leaves make a hed, 
 and the hluc sky ii healthy roof in line weather. Thus 
 liush-hnhtinii; is Iml u jileasant })icnic. with some 
 vciy d;-aL;r('cal(l.' scasoniiiLi,- in the dish of jileasnre. 
 Then' i^ rathei- loo much ]»ep|)cr in il. Al Louisville 
 ai'c estahlishiucnls fnr ivuk ilyiii'4 the cvil cflrcls of lend 
 and steel taken iuwaidly. The military hospitals are 
 woithy of the arniy. When the war he^an, one ul' the 
 cliief (tllieers ill char.Li'e was asked to f,'o to Kuro]ie to study 
 the hti'-pital system tliei'C. As he says, it seeiiii'd to him 
 that lio-ipitals in old countriis were _ureat erections of 
 stone and lime, meant to stand for evei' ; sd he declined, 
 and asked leil\e to study w ithin his own circle of thonuht. 
 A L;reai sloiie eililjcc w.is not wanted in the West, where 
 ever_\ lldtiy yi'HWs flom the slumi*. Insteail, the woodcll 
 shanty archite( t ure nf the prairic> was twisted inii. the 
 form I'f a wheel, wnh the doctor's shop and kilcheii m 
 
iiosriiAi.s. 
 
 ,>.i I 
 
 ,' fur it, lie 
 iilists, ami 
 \v •^roiuitl, 
 ilH! nl" liis 
 
 avs ralhi'r 
 haul larm 
 ions. Till' 
 lake a 1><''1, 
 her. Thus 
 with SDiut' 
 .1" jilcasuiv. 
 Louisvilli' 
 
 ;(>ls nl' lead 
 
 sjtitals ill'*' 
 
 rilU! ol" tlli' 
 
 ijic to study 
 med ti) hiiu 
 •ii'('ti(»ns lit' 
 
 Ircliurtl, 
 
 111' I 
 
 () 
 
 r tluniuht 
 
 lVf<t, whfi'i' 
 Ithi' woinlv'U 
 (1 ill','* til'' 
 Uitrhi'U 111 
 
 tl 
 
 Ml. 
 
 w iniMiiii', am 
 
 il th 
 
 I' sifk-lit'ds ill till' spokes, am 
 
 d tl. 
 
 hos])ital was rciidy tnrartinii in no tiiiic. The iniiniry 
 prini-ijilc ot'doinLj t'or()m''s-s('lf was ado|it''d hy tin- doctor. 
 Til' K'arni'd vcryhody's work l>y doin^ it hiniscir liid'orc 
 lie si't others to ilo it : ami so the hosjtital acted well IVom 
 the lirst, and ads li-^lit well now. ihiiiuin'^f the doctor's 
 clu'inical knowlcd'^e to hear on tiic kitchen, the cook 
 
 \\ 
 
 as set to make decoctions and exti'ads; and the resnl 
 
 was exc( 
 
 •llellt 
 
 food, Ilo waste, no refuse, no matter in a 
 
 wroiiu' ]>la(M', which is a jiolite name for stinks and dirt. 
 AVith utter contempt I'or |ti'ecedcnt, the doctor went to 
 work ; and he found mit a new cure for liosjiital uaii- 
 
 ^UX.'IIC, w 
 
 hich 
 
 1 saveil inanv lives 
 
 lie ccitainlv (hd 
 
 not ]iivveiit hospital i^aii^renc, for he jiad a tcul lull of 
 jiatieiits. I-et those who eiicoiiraue war walk tIiron,L;h 
 a military hospital, and ask to see the patients alllicleij 
 V. 'th hosjiiial uan^u'ieiie. 'I'll'' Amei'ican people, army, 
 and hospital, are thiiiLfs niadi; not for ornament, hut foi' 
 practii'al ri.^c. They are all admirahle, and all woik 
 remarkahly well, hut as it seems lo me they are now 
 doiiiLf lor themsid\es as fast as they pos^ihly can. 
 My American politics are those of .Icaiincite : — 
 
 Il I 
 
 Wrlc killLJ "f Klilllif 
 
 ( >1', what i> hrlh-l', I'npi' <<{ H"llh', 
 
 'I'lit'If dit'iiM Im- u<> li^hlilip Iii« II ;il>|na. 
 
 N> 
 
 w I .•]iin^' maid- at h"iiii 
 

 1 1 
 
 \\ Wii l;l< \N II; WW 
 
 All till \v >>i |.| -Ii>iti|i| l.r ,tt pfiirc ; 
 < M, ll l\lll-> lllll-l -lln\\ lilt II nil-Ill, 
 W'llV, III llliix will' 'ii;iIm tlir i|U.il|i U 
 I'lf llic c.|il\ M||c^ \>. Ii,;lil. 
 
 H I wciv iiskc.l III • \|iivss iiiv \ii'\v-> nil tiiiii^ 
 ;ill;iiitir |M»lilirs, I slmiild |i|-ii|misc ;i i^iaml cuiicnf nl' 
 kiii.us, kaisers, and colitiiists, willi I In n Ira in — 
 
 Lit lIlUM' \V||H lll.lkr till' i|ll.lHrl>, 
 111 IJlc nllly n||i'- I'l li^lllt. 
 
 It scciiicil, III (JclnJM'r JSCil iliat ( iciicial Slicniian 
 was ill a mess. Tlir tail was Itiokcii sdinc way ijown ; 
 _i;uar(|s Mack ami wiiilr wi'ir at f\('iy spnt wliirc a 
 Itjackniianl nT a i^uciiiia cniild stuji tlic train liy sawini; 
 a iHist ill a scalliild luid^c. nr lt\ sawiii;,: down tin- 
 siuiial-|Mist at a statinii. It sccnifd ini]ins>ili|i' tliat tlic 
 (iciicral could linid Atlanta with such a train lichind 
 him iiiilis-^ t ill' Smith wcic fairlN dune Sditii al'lfiwai'ds 
 a Sdutlicin anus unt rmind Atlanta hctwccii Slicnnaii 
 and his wi'stcni rariii. aiitl a.> il apiMaivd in .laiiiiaiy 
 I Siirt t his aiiny ;^i»t a^nnd whi|t)tin^: hut the "cracker 
 line' wlii( h hound Slieriiiaii lo ihe Wtstein Slates was 
 cut, and lie was adrill. 1 1 they could not cru->h nr extract 
 him, the he>t thiiiL: the Snuthern doctors could do with 
 lliis hiillet -lieadid Liciicial was to s(juec/e liiiii oiit ; and 
 in sjiite of all t he I riiiiii|iliaiil sniiu> t hat lia\ c hccii siinii 
 d\ri Sheiiiiairs victor\, j still think that he was in a 
 
SI Ili.l.liV. 
 
 ;;r»'.t 
 
 (III tlilMS- 
 CdlMi'lt n| 
 
 1 Slii'iniiiii 
 
 viiv <li)\\n ; 
 
 it \sliiir ;i 
 
 hy siiwinji 
 
 (l(»\vn tin- 
 
 • |r that tlic 
 liii lu'liiiid 
 il'tt'iwai'ds 
 Slicniiaii 
 -laimarv 
 !• ■ (rarl\cr 
 Stairs was 
 (ir cxtrai't 
 i| (1(1 w itli 
 (lilt : and 
 licfii sunn 
 (■ was ill a 
 
 IIU'SS, out III wlilrli lir \\;is (lt\rrl\ l|r||icd l.\ |||-* Itiiv^. 
 
 Tln'\ L((»l lu'liiiid liiiii aijil mi luitli sidi-s ul' liini. '_:a\<' 
 liiiii Ids lirad and I<'t liitii <^n. and In- wi-nt lil\< a l>ird 
 1"> llir foast. II'' niadr tracks, and liis wrrr likf tla- 
 duck's iniirniiin track' riniu tlic rcc(liii^-miiiind <tii simic 
 l«i a rciii;^!' at sea at siinrisf. Willi a Wfll-ldimd ainiv, 
 ill cxctdlciil Inalili and ^ood riiiiditinii, mad*' <>| cmintrN 
 inalfiials, ami lit \'ny imi^di (uiintiv wnk it was rasy !•• 
 iiiaitdi. It was the intcrrst u| tlir Smitli tu ni.iivc a 
 ltrid;^c 111 .L;nld, In (111 a iVcsli wniind llirnii;.di lintiun 
 lilccdiii'Li sides, or to do anstliinu to ^ci ri(l of that 
 ti'irililo N'ankfc missile wiih the Mli s(|iiare head. lint 
 ir I lit- I Kit ir lit is exhausted. \\ li it a\ ails military suiu'Ty ( 
 Time will show the result. The Noilh will wlii|i the 
 South, as I lielieve. hilt nations li\r loii;^, and the South 
 will resent the hlow lor all tune. The end of the 
 \'ankee war has yet to coine, and when it does come 
 perhajis it will not he |ieace. 
 
 A Frcii(limaii was askcil his ii|iiiiion of the |)crl'V. 
 Ill' sjircad his |ialnis, shru'..:'_;i'i| his shoulder^, raised his 
 cyehrows. mid said — ' lleiv de\ eoliie ; dele de\ eo ; 
 
 pay nie one hundred iioiinds, Ma I'oi, voila lout,' 
 The Kreiichmairs \ iew was |iictt\ m .n t he truth ; hut 
 the lull ol' eoiiiu to and ((•iiiiii'.: rroiii a ^tiijiid lace i- 
 
Ai 
 
 ^?> 
 
 ^^^. 
 
 v^ 
 
 »o. 
 
 
 IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
 1.0 
 
 I.I 
 
 
 2.2 
 
 1.8 
 
 
 1.25 
 
 1.4 
 
 1.6 
 
 
 .< 6" — 
 
 
 ► 
 
 V] 
 
 <^ 
 
 /2 
 
 '<^. 
 
 A 
 
 
 
 d? 
 
 /J 
 
 Photographic 
 
 Sciences 
 
 Corporation 
 
 s 
 
 ^^ 
 
 \ 
 
 S 
 
 V 
 
 \\ 
 
 ^<b 
 
 V 
 
 
 
 Q> 
 
 23 WEST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, NY. 14580 
 
 (716) 872-4503 
 

 Q> 
 
360 
 
 AN AMEKRAN TUAMP. 
 
 • ■ ' ? 
 
 ♦•• 
 
 soiiietliing peculiarly enticing to all Caucasians. At 
 Louisville the Kentucky Derby was going on, so we 
 went to the races. Tlie fun of the race consisted in 
 seeing two niggers ride two screws two miles twice. 
 They would iiave done it again, but the lirst screw beat 
 tlio other botli times, and so the fun ended preniaturely. 
 Nevertheless, there was a great deal of excitement and 
 a groat deal of fun. Tlie betting was all managed by 
 an Irishman, who had invented a peculiar style of his 
 own, which took amazingly. It was managed in this 
 wise : — Standing up at 'the corner,' the Irishman spoke 
 out like an auctioneer, with a rich brogue ; and it was 
 rumoured that he had knocked down many things in 
 his day. The sound of the auction came floating to the 
 grand stand — 
 
 ' Eighty -five dollars in the ])Ool — Harper sold — Go 
 dollars bid, and (screw No. 2) gone to Captain Jones.' 
 
 In this, the simplest possible case. Captain Jones 
 bets 65 to 85 against Harper. The Irishman holds the 
 stakes, and sacks 5 per cent on 150 greenbacks — a sum 
 equal to 14s. — on this bet; and his interest is to pro- 
 mote the noble pastime of horse-racing by every means 
 in his power. So at it he goes again — 
 
 ' How muchi for this pool, gentlemen ? How much 
 for this ])ool ?" Somebody speaks. ' Kighiy-fivp dollars 
 
CiUJNG TO THE RACES, 
 
 361 
 
 siaiis. At 
 on, so we 
 ousisted in 
 liles tAvice. 
 screw beat 
 re maturely, 
 tenient and 
 lanaged by 
 ityle of liis 
 fed in this 
 man spoke 
 and it Avas 
 i things in 
 iting to the 
 
 y sold — 65 
 n Jones.' 
 )tain Jones 
 1 holds the 
 'ks — a sum 
 is to pro- 
 very means 
 
 How much 
 ■five dollars 
 
 bid for Harper. Any more for Harper ? No more bid 
 
 for Harper. Harper sold to Captain , and 85 
 
 dollars in the pool. How much for the next Iiorse?' 
 (There were Init two.) ' Fifty— thank you, sir. Fifty 
 bid for the next liorse— 55— 00— 60 dollars bid, and 
 85 in the pool-62-5_6-7. Any more bi<l for this 
 pool? Xo more. Gone to Mr. Mace for 67 dollars. 
 One hundred and fifty-two dollars in this ])0ol.' 
 
 At this rate an industrious man may pick up a 
 decent living ; and this was an industrious man. He 
 never stopped all day, and when night camo, he came 
 with it to the hotel, and went on again faster than ever 
 in the bar. The natives are fond of the turf, though 
 there is but little tiu-f to be seen. Prices occur fre- 
 quently ; and the Irish auctioneer is an honest fellow, 
 and has something like a monopoly of the per-centage 
 on all racing bets. More power to his ell^ow ! He got 
 nothing out of me. 
 
 We went to the races in a carriage and pair. A train 
 of trotting buggies and vehicles of all sorts streamed 
 along a dusty road, and a railway train i-attled along- 
 side of us, without even a hedge between. One trotter 
 raced the engine, and kept neck and neck with the fire- 
 box for a mile. The drive was fun ; as for the race, 
 put greenbacks for gold, and the Fronchmans aceount of 
 
302 
 
 AN .\.Mi:i;iCAN TIIAMi'. 
 
 the Deri))' titled tlic Louisville nwi'A to u Iiair : tliey 
 (•iiiiie 1111(1 went {uul ]);ii(l, 
 
 lietui'iied Iiy train, iiiid as tluf train 8toi)ped a very 
 
 lon;^ time, ,L;ot out and walked. ' Who tiie is that 
 
 tfliow r said a man in the horse-hox tVom wliieh 1 had 
 (escaped. 'Wal, 1 don't know,' said another; 'hut he 
 must be a Jhitisher, I reckon ; no other w^ould Ije such a 
 darned fool as to ])ay tor his place and walk home. I 
 Ltuess he must be a friend of the Consul's.' lie uuessed 
 ri^'ht, and the Consul sat lieside him ; l)ut he reckoned 
 wrong, for the walk was pleasanter than standing-rooin 
 ill a horse-box, and l)etter worth tenpence. 
 
 The small cross-streams which here enter the Ohio 
 hav(! only cut down to the rock ; the bed of the larger 
 river is but a shallow groo^'e. Since this great river 
 Ohio last began to flow, it has only cleared out a small 
 hollow in beds of water-drift. There are no boulders 
 herealjouts. Tluai! were no Ijusli whackers either ; but 
 they might have done a good stroke of business amongst 
 the betting men, if it had occurred to them to jiouncc 
 upon till' road to the Louisville Derlty. 
 
hail' : tiiey 
 
 )pe(l (I vei'v 
 
 is tliat 
 
 iiiic'li I had 
 T ; 'l)iit ha 
 (I 1)C3 sucli a 
 < lioiiie. I 
 He giR'SSt'd 
 le reckoned 
 luliiici-rooiii 
 
 or the Ohio 
 f the larger 
 great river 
 out a small 
 110 boulders 
 either ; but 
 ess aiuongsi 
 u t(.» ]iounc(' 
 
 <'HAI»TKIJ XVIII, 
 
 I.nriSVlLLK To CINCIXXATr. 
 
 Fkom Louisville tnok I,.,,! for Cincii.nal i. 1o s.e 
 whether the Ohio had been able lo lind a hnuhh-r ii, its 
 ••anks of gravel and r...! rlay. Th,. baid<s of th.. Ohio 
 above Lcuisville are \n^v hills, ubout 100 loet high, 
 sometimes ..nding in elilts of roek which I'is,^ out 
 of a plain of sand. The r<K'k is limestone, in horizontal 
 beds. Trees gTow luxuriantly, and were bcuinniiK.- to 
 tui-n. The prevailing wind is u])-stream, S.W. A great 
 part of the land on both sides ap])ears t., be unoccupied. 
 Why will the Yankees tight when they have so 
 much room to get away from disagreeable neighbours ^ 
 
 At some places the hills are far ajmrt, a mile or 
 more ; at others, tlu'v are close togethei-. For al)out 
 150 miles, the river winds between these low bluffs, 
 while small lateral gorg.vs j,.ii, at every half mile or 
 hundred yards. The de].th nf water varies from eight to 
 three feet. The l.cach between high and low water- 
 luark is terraced in iidniat iiiv. Thr water has fallen 
 
364 
 
 AN AMKUICAN 'I'liAMF. 
 
 .♦•.' 
 
 gradually, 80 a terrace does not iudicatti a sudden cliaiigo 
 or a long pause in a I'ise of land. The bank al)ove is a 
 steep wall of elay, a miniature of the limestone cliff 
 beyond the alluvial plain, which is level with the top of 
 the clay-bank. Above the cliif is the rolling prairie, 
 and tae cap on the cliff is loose drift. At first sight it 
 appears that the Ohio and its tributaries ha^'e sculptured 
 the country into this shape, which may be represented 
 by the diagrams at pages 320 and 342. On second 
 thoughts, the loose sand and clay on the top of the cliffs 
 could not well stav there, while the rain dug out a 
 valley more than 150 miles long, more than a mile in 
 average width, and more than 300 feet deep at Cincin- 
 nati. The Ohio and its predecessors, helped by the sea 
 at intervals, might do the work ; and the sand on the 
 top of the hills may record the last presence of the sea. 
 The day was fme, cool, and pleasant, the night 
 cold, with fog towards morning. The scenery was 
 pretty, something like the Rhine without the old 
 castles and the seven hills. The water is a reddish 
 yellow, the sky cloudless and blue as the sky of Italy. 
 and the high banks and low plains a blaze of autunm 
 tints and bright greens, mingled with yellow corn. It 
 is a bright and beautiful land on which the demon of 
 war has planted his fiery hoof 
 
A KIVEH .STKA.MKIJ. 
 
 36 
 
 a 
 
 uUk'ii cluinge 
 ik cibovc is a 
 iiiestone cliff 
 til tlie top of 
 lling prairie, 
 first .sitjht it 
 vii .sculptured 
 ! represented 
 Oil second 
 ) of tiie cliffs 
 II dug out a 
 an a mile in 
 Bp at Ciiicin- 
 ?d by the sea 
 sand on the 
 e of the sea. 
 t, the night 
 scenery was 
 out the old 
 is a reddish 
 sky of Italy, 
 ;e of autumn 
 ow corn. It 
 the demon of 
 
 The steamer 'General lluell' makes 12^ ndh?s au 
 hour up stream, and draws three feet of watei'. Tlu- 
 lower deck is about two feet above tlu; river. On this 
 th^ating foundation is the engine, open to all comers. 
 It is a deck-passenger working its passage, and has no 
 cabin. The next storey is a saloon, built upon a scaf- 
 folding of slender beams. It is al)out 2.J(J Ibet lon<^ 
 with 58 state-rooms and 116 beds arranged on each side. 
 It is painted white, and varnished to look like ivory. 
 On the roof of the saloon is a second storey, with a few 
 more rooms in it, and a liroad open deck to walk about 
 upon. Above that is a tower between two funnels, and 
 there the steersman and the captain look out for shoals, 
 and steer the ship. Theiv is room to stand on the to];, 
 and a Hag floats above all. It is a Xoah's ark in a big 
 butcher's tniy. 
 
 At meal-times we, the hungry animals, gather about 
 long tables, and stand with our fore-paws upon tln^ 
 backs of chairs. At the first sound of the iion^^ we sit 
 and for ten minutes th(^ worry is like that of a pack of 
 fox-hounds. When one set has fed, the board is cleared, 
 and a second pack rush in to feed in like manner. 
 When they Iiave done, another diinier comes from some- 
 where, and the stewards dine when the rest are stodged. 
 The dinner is paid for in the ticket, and the man who 
 
'MJi) 
 
 AN .\Mi:i{I('AN TKAMI'. 
 
 .*%• 
 
 does 111(1 look out for Iiis own iiiteivsts •^ct.s iiotliiii^'. 
 These urc tlic feeds that Americiiii tourists truly describe, 
 hut they are not like diiniers in gcnjd hotels, where there 
 is ])leiily to eat and })lenty of time to do it in. This 
 kind of thing is but an exjiggeration of a dinner on the 
 Rliiiie. It is better, bigger, and faster. 
 
 Passed another floating butcher's tray with a house 
 in it five storeys high, driven down stream by a single 
 mill-wlieel at the stern, and with a barge alongside. 
 This edifice and tender were crammed full of soldiers 
 going down to Sherman. They were clustered thick as 
 Ijees newly swarmed, and as we passed they set up a 
 chorus of wild whoops and yells. Now, there is some- 
 thing characteristic in a shout. It is not articulatt; 
 speech, but the human animal's natural method of ex- 
 pressing his feelings, and each variety of homo mjiirns 
 has its own natural note. An Kngli.sh cheer is like 
 the roar of a bull, or the sound of the sea ; this was the 
 terrible shout which friuhtened the soldiers ol' Queen 
 Bess. It was then ' Laun dearg abo,' ' red hand,' accord- 
 ing to Froude. It is Hurkoo at a wake ; it was a shrill 
 Irish yell on l)oard that butcher's tray in the Ohio, if 
 there l)e truth in discordant sound. 
 
 Passed jNIadison, wlunv steamers are made; and 
 mended, and wher<' a great many butcher's trays were 
 
l'i>l{Ki)l'ni,|.- 
 
 ,)!• / 
 
 <4('t.s Il()tllill«4'. 
 nily describe, 
 I, wliore tliere 
 it in. This 
 liiiner oil the 
 
 with !i house 
 11 by n single 
 L;'e alongside. 
 II of soldiers 
 ?red thick jis 
 hey set np a 
 lere is sonie- 
 ot articulate 
 letliod of ex- 
 'iir/ni> sa pirns 
 lieer is like 
 this was the 
 rs of (^ueen 
 and,' accord- 
 was a shrill 
 the Ohio, if 
 
 niad(j and 
 s trays were 
 
 Oil the stocks nv ill 111,' water, and got lo Cinrinnali in 
 the middle o|' the night. Hired a man and a thing like 
 a fishmonger's (ray ; put the luggage in and sat upon it. 
 and drove up in this guise lo the best hotel in the place. 
 (Jot a famous (dean double-bechled room, \\i(h two beds 
 and basins in it. Went to bed, and slept for a few 
 houi's before going out to .see Torkopolis. 
 
 The weather in the morning was gray and cool after 
 the most brilliant of clear, hard, moonlit nights. Cin- 
 cinnati is a pretty town, if one could see it for smok(>. 
 Above it rises jNIount Adams ; the top is about :'.(>() feet 
 above the river, and the rise from Louksville cannot be 
 great. The top of the hill is about 7()0 feet iibove the 
 soa, and level Mith the rolling prairie. The rock is fos- 
 silifcrous limestone, in horizontal Iteds, nndei- a caj) of 
 fine red sand unstratified. The surface undei the cap 
 is weathered, so that fossils project, and there is no 
 symptom of glacial action anywhere. The view is veiy 
 extensive, and devoid of any marked feature, the river 
 excepted. The town is in one of the side trenches, and 
 picturesque from the uneven ground on M-hich it stands. 
 The black smoke of numerous factories, the din of ham- 
 mering on ir(jn, the screaming of railway-engines, an.l 
 the music of giant steaiiil)oats on the river, mark the 
 neighbourhood of a coal-field and busy life. Wanden-d 
 
308 
 
 AN ami: Hie AN TRAMl', 
 
 >*.• 
 
 about the liills mid the river-bauks all day, and only 
 found a fow pebbles of porphyry and quartz, and some 
 larj;<'i' water-washed stones, whieh are used for paving; 
 went ('i,nht iind a half Jiiiles out, and returnc(l in a street- 
 car to the Sjiencer House. Had a l(tn,L,^ tidk with an 
 Irish labourer turned Yankee citizen, who declareil th;it 
 no jiower would induce or drive him to draw trigger in 
 this quarrel. Aftijr dining, drove off to rndianni)olis, 
 and got housed by midnight. 
 
 There is something rather startling in the bills <»f 
 fare. French names look odd in English, and curious 
 things arc to be eaten. For sheer curiosity asked for 
 ' An e])igTam of mntton, breaded and fried, })lain,' ' K(^n- 
 tucky middlings,' 'punch bi.scuit,' 'cold slaw,' 'mush,' 
 'squash,' 'fried egg-])lant,' and ' oyster-i)lant.' 
 
 The epigram was dry and stale, cold, old, and tough, 
 and seemed to l)e a scurvy joke played off by the coolc ; 
 the middlings were pork clippings of very middling 
 excellence ; the other things were good enough in their 
 way, and the last really tasted like an old oyster stewed 
 to pass for a fresli one. 
 
 At the Tremont Hotel, at Chicago, all the servants 
 are Trisli ; at the Indianapolis Hotel, the male servants 
 are black. At the one, everything goes like clockwork ; 
 at the other, everything goes wrong. Shown to a room 
 
ri;i:r, Niccrns. 
 
 ay, and only 
 tz, and som«^ 
 1 lor paving; 
 m1 in a .strccl- 
 alk with an 
 -Icclarcd tliat 
 w trigger in 
 Indianapolis, 
 
 tho bills of 
 and curious 
 ty asked for 
 plain,' ' Ken- 
 a\v, ' ' mush," 
 t.' 
 
 I, and tough, 
 by the cook ; 
 ry middling 
 ugh in their 
 yster stewed 
 
 the servants 
 lale servants 
 ! clockwork : 
 ^n to a room 
 
 :U,\) 
 
 lide at mght, ll„. h.-d was unmade; tho water-jug had 
 ebhed dry in the morning ; the shoes stood unhrushed 
 at the door; no towejs were to ho had : a luvatldess hoy 
 answered the hell ; an Irishwoman brought water an.l 
 linen, but the hoy lu^xov roturn.-.I till a [.eal had been 
 rung continuously h.r many minutes. JI.> only returned 
 1" announce that ' Im- said he had no time to l.ru.sh 
 boots, and that he said 1 must cona' down to the barber's 
 .shoj,, as it was b.vakfast time.' 'The stomach is a 
 good clock; says tho proverb. A b.^ll .nul an inward 
 monitor had announced that fact long bt-lbrc; but i.i 
 the \V St it is untashi.^nable to appear at breakfast 
 bootless. Donning the dusty shoos, .loscended, and 
 found [I grand saloon, with a bill of fare as long as my 
 arm, and a tall, goo.l-k.oking, well-dressed, coloured 
 gentleman standing attention at tho end of each of a 
 h^ng regiment of tables. Having selected tho desired 
 breakfast, sat down and waited, patiently at fn-t, im- 
 patiently at last. The Af.ican gentleman wiio conde- 
 scended to take my ordcv, took it with an abstracted 
 air, as if he were inwardly contemplating his own 
 admirable proportions, or nomr. othin- infinite pro- 
 position. His eye was aloft, and his mind absent 
 from this grovelling world, and so he returned at last 
 with a lot of cold dishes, apparently scraps left by 
 
 2b 
 
;;7(i 
 
 AN AMKUMAN Til A Ml' 
 
 
 jd'ccctliiin' L-iii'sts, ])ut iniiniif^st tliciii nil no sdlila-y disli 
 that M'ns ovdcri'd. 
 
 'I nskcd for a kidncv,' [said; 'you liave brouglit 
 nu! bacon.' 
 
 * I know you did,' said the nii^ger. 
 
 Was T to l)ito ofr my nos(! to spitu my faro, and thi'ow 
 my food at his woolly i)ati' ^ No. I ato my cold nasty 
 ])r('akrast, and went out in my dusty slioos to wander 
 ahout in the bright clear IVesh air of tlio jmiirie and 
 look for boulders; and as I wandered, I thought of 
 m'ggers and the war ; and since then tlie train of thought 
 has grown longer. 
 
 We are tohl on high authority that * here we sec 
 darkly as through a glass.' If a short-sighted man 
 sticks a dollar in his eye for an eye-glass, and winks, he 
 will see no sin. Tn the eightli volume of Fronde's 
 History of England we are told how^ a certain Captain 
 Hawkins and the good Queen Bess, who seem to liave 
 been a very bad lot, winked at each other and looked 
 at the situation through Spanish dollars. They saw 
 no sin in saving heathen niggers from perdition, 
 and in cheating Portugals, so they fitted out a kind 
 of man-o'-war free-slave-trading, piratical, smuggling, 
 coast-surveying, blockade-running fleet, which went 
 to the West Indies by way of the west coast of 
 
wii.i' Ni(.<;i;i{s. 
 
 371 
 
 ^dlita'-y (li^li 
 
 avc bniuglit 
 
 50, and throw 
 ly cold luisty 
 's to wander 
 ; prairie and 
 [ thonglit oi' 
 .ill of thou<^lit 
 
 ' here we see 
 
 sighted man 
 Lud Avinks, lie 
 of Fronde's 
 tain Captain 
 U3eni to have 
 r and looked 
 They saw 
 )ni perdition, 
 out a kind 
 , smuggling, 
 which went 
 est coast of 
 
 Afriia, and sningL,ded a lot nf slavr-^. Tlicy were iimI 
 tlie first, hnt aniongsl tlif first, wli'i liniitci! iiiuncrs. 
 The KiU'djK'ans found a "([iiiet, ])ea(eaMe, and cntilcnted 
 people basking in tlie sunshine in liai'iulcss jillciicss," 
 unsuspecting and trusting as the taine wild hirtis and 
 animals nf which Alexander Selkiik is made to say, 
 "they are so unaccustomed to man, their tameness is 
 shocking to in(\" 
 
 It certainly was slnteking barbarism to be so happy ; 
 and TFawkins civili/ed the heathen and took them over 
 sea. The natives laid a [ilau to entra]) and kill them, 
 "God, however, wIk) worketh all things lor the best, 
 would not have it so, and by him they escapml danger : 
 Kis name be praised." They were becalmed. " Al- 
 mighty God, however, who never .suffers his elect to 
 perish," sent a breeze in time, and the nigger carg(j was 
 safely run. Hawkins came home by way of the IJanks 
 of Newfoundland with sixty per cent prr)fit on the 
 voyage, and he and Queen Pjosa looked through their 
 golden eye-glasses and saw nothing wrong. This was 
 in loG4 Surelv it was the small end of the big black 
 wedge which rent the Indies from Spain, and has nrjw 
 rent the severed English plantations in twain. 
 
 After three hundred years here stands the American 
 nigger, ' quiet, peaceable, contented, harmless, idle,' fond 
 
'} —.1 
 
 AN AMKKIC.W TI.'AMi 
 
 ft^M 
 
 ■t^- 
 
 .♦'.• 
 
 'if Ijiiskiiii-- in tlie siiiisliiiR', tlicuijhtle.ss im I incrrv as 
 '•iiL uf tln! wiUl birds ; as fit to manage liiniseif or rule 
 otluii's as a l)ig black Ijaby newly caiigiit in tlie Biglit ul" 
 IJenin. 
 
 At the end of that week 1 arrived, late at night, at 
 Pittsburg, and heard the cheery sound of a fiddle and 
 the voice of the master of t)ie ceremonies shoutinij, 
 ' First gent to tlie right ;' ' swing corners,' and so on. 
 
 '"NHiat's up t" 1 said to the darky who was showing 
 1^1 •' ^c my room. 
 
 ' A dance of coloured people, sir,' he said. 
 
 1 looked out of a windov; and saw over the way a 
 brilliant room filled with neatly-dressed black lads and 
 lasses dancing quadrilles to reel time. The music was 
 excellent, the time perfect, and they went at it with 
 viu'cHir and skill that rivalled a gillie's ball. Thev have 
 music in their souls these children of Ham, and they 
 are jolly under adverse circumstances. On Sunday I 
 hunted out the black church, got into the darkest corner 
 I could find, and found myself conspicuous for the rest 
 of the day, for I wa.^; the only Caucasian there ; I might 
 have sought vamly in every other church in the town 
 for an African. The minister w^as black, but he spoke 
 good English, and good sense. His text wus from the 
 book of Job, and the gist of his sermon was trust in 
 
TAMK \l(;(;i;i;s. 
 
 .) ( .> 
 
 tless an 1 iiiciTy as 
 iif(i liimsui!' or rule 
 
 gilt ill tlie Biglit ul' 
 
 d, late at night, at 
 tid of a fiddle and 
 'enionies shouting 
 lers,' and so on. 
 who was showin 
 
 O' 
 
 he said. 
 
 LW over the way a 
 sed black lads and 
 . The music was 
 ' went at it with 
 s ball. They have 
 of Hani, and they 
 3S. On Sunday I 
 the darkest corner 
 licuous for the rest 
 an there ; I might 
 lurch in the to^^'n 
 ack, but he spoke 
 text Wcis from the 
 ■moil was trust in 
 
 
 Providence. [ have heard many a worse discourse 
 from the lips of white men. The serni..ii ended, a 
 younger, and, if p<.ssible, a blacker man prayed i'crveiitly 
 una lluentJy, and the congregation chimed in with 
 'Praise tlie Lord,' and deep groans. They prayed for 
 their brelliivii who were ' fighting the good fight'— that 
 they might be restored to their luaues and families ; 
 nnd tliey were in earnest, if there be truth in outward 
 signs of inward feeling. They can be roused by elo- 
 ciuence, they can feel enthusiasm, tli.-y can i.ray ;" they 
 are not so far down in the scale after all. They sang 
 truly, in parts, and made excellent music. The}- were a 
 motley congregation. Beside me was a boy ^ith straight 
 yeUow hair and blue eyes, a skin like chalk, and Uie 
 features of a negr... A little way off were Caucasian 
 features with a black skin. In a corner was a woman 
 whose face would draw children like a magnet ;— a quiet, 
 motherly, benevolent old lady she was, though she sat 
 in the nigger church. They were not siinply well 
 dressed : th.y were handsomely and expensively dressed ; 
 and they behaved themselves as well as any white con- 
 
 gregation could do— all but 
 
 one. Service ended, the 
 
 ure on the 
 
 minister announced that on such a day a lect 
 
 negro cLaracter would be delivered in this place I 
 
 Capt 
 
 iin 
 
 \vho commanded a lu 
 
 ;i'o regiment, it 
 
374 
 
 AN AMKKICAX TKAMI' 
 
 really was hardly fair to introduce the recniiting oliicci' ; 
 Ijut as this coiigTegatiun is protected and supported by 
 the North, it ought to tiglit. It had sent out iriends to 
 ' tight the good light,' and it probably will send more. 
 That subject disposed of, the ndnister gave his flock a 
 sound rating for eating chestnuts at the last lecture, 
 ' A good bushel of hulls had been swept out,' he said. 
 The white boy with the yellow hair turned paler and 
 yellower, and sat like a statue of innocence ; the cidprit 
 had a large pile of fresh chestnut hulls between his feet. 
 
 Later, I sat in a gig beside an old nigger for a whole 
 day, and found him a very agreeable, chatty, intelligent 
 companion. He had whitewash in his face, and spoke 
 with great contempt of newly-escaped plantation nig- 
 gers, who, as he said, were thieves and rogues. Still 
 later, I had a sinular drive with one of this black class, 
 and could get nothing out of his woolly pate. He knew 
 nothing about the country in which he lived. The 
 names of hills or rivers or trees were unknown mysteries ; 
 but as soon as he got his tip he spent it in cigars, stuck 
 one in his cheek, liquored up, and drove off like a 
 gentleman. 
 
 At rhiladelp^iia there was a demonstration in cele- 
 bration of Free Maryland. The nigger crowd asseml^lcil 
 
r.i,A(K M(;(;i;i;.s. 
 
 o , O 
 
 i)efbre an illuminated house, and orators addressed tlieni, 
 Imt no slioutinn or excitement re.sidted. ' 1 wish they 
 would show us some more pictures ; that wouhl be far 
 better fun,' said an old lady at my ell)ow. 'Jliey ore not; 
 easily roused. 
 
 There are ni^ugers and ni^Lr.t^'ers. Uncle Tom is a 
 portrait ; Ijut there are dark darkies, whose portraits 
 liaye not yet ap])eared. 
 
 About a hundred and tii'ty years ago, one wIkj became 
 M.V. for (Jlasgow in 1721-1724, dealt in niggers, and 
 saw no harm through his golden spectacles. The sun 
 ueyer sets on the English thig, or on the lineal descen- 
 dants of that man ; for they are scattered oyei- the whole 
 earth. Some are French sailors ; (.thers AW'Sl Indian 
 coloured people; some are in India ; others aiv, or were 
 lately, in Japan, at the Cape of Good Hope, on the 
 African station, in Australia, China, Jaya, the West 
 ludies, America. They stick together like Scotchmen 
 everywhere, and many of them describe m'ggers as 
 ' quiet, peaceable, contented, harndess, idle,' black 
 beings, utterly unfit to manage tliemsel"es. 
 
 One of this scatter(Ml Scotch tribe was lately in 
 Jamaica, and his mule having cast a shoe, his fiee black 
 gentleman-uslun- and groom was sent to the Ibige to get 
 him shod. His name was :\Iorgan, whi< h he j.rnnouncpl 
 
6 I U 
 
 AX AMKHICAX TKAMI'. 
 
 *• ♦ 
 
 
 Muuur«^aii. I'lik'ss llie title ' Mj,' Avas i)i'cli\c'd, the h^aMc 
 attendant nev r heard, and lie never nnderstood nnJess 
 his employer s])(ike t<» him in his pceidiar jargon o\' 
 English. The mule was wanted, and like the shoes at 
 Indianapolis, the mule did not come, so the master went 
 to do his own work, lie got on the mule at the forge, 
 and was ah(jut to take him home, when lie spied his 
 truant servant, and shouted ' ]\lorgan.' Morgan studied 
 the stars as tlie waiter did at hreakfast. 'Morgan.' 
 Morgan was stone-deaf and could not see. ' Mr. Mor- 
 gan.' ' Yes, sar.' ' Come here, sir.' * Yes, sar,' said 
 Mr. Morgan, advancing. '^Vhy did you lea\e my mule 
 at the forge?' Mr. ]Morgan's eye is iixed on a passing 
 cloud, and his hearing fails utterly. 
 
 ' Mr. ]\lorgan, I beg you da tell me why you da lea\'e 
 de nuile in da toon i ' 
 
 ' Me khaaau't say at all.' 
 
 ' I beg you da tell me, sir.' 
 
 'I tink 1 go for a leetle waaalk in da toon,' says Mr. 
 Morgan. 
 
 'AVill you have the goodness not to do so again?' 
 says the master. 
 
 ' Hi, hi ! what for? I tink I go lor a leetle waaaDv in 
 da toon ;' and off he goes, placidly gazing upwards. Off 
 he goes, and as he goes down the street, he meets a 
 
rstood unless 
 
 itir jargon of 
 
 till! shoes at 
 
 master went 
 
 at the forge, 
 
 he spied liis 
 
 jrgau stiulie<l 
 
 ' Morgan.' 
 
 ' Mr. j\Ior- 
 
 es, sar,' said 
 
 i\ e my mule 
 
 on a passing 
 
 you da leave 
 
 on,' says ^Ir. 
 
 so again ( 
 
 >le waaallv in 
 
 pwards. Off 
 
 he meets a 
 
 BLACK c;i;nti>i:mi:n. 
 
 377 
 
 couple of l.laek ladies of lii.s actiuaintanee. The master 
 hears the iirst of their conversation. 
 
 ' Hi, hi : I tnik de massa him craaass. \ thiidc when 
 'im craaass, 'im face dam oogly.' 
 
 The waiter said he knew I wanted kidney, and 
 brought me jjork ; and his look was the stolid look wliich 
 the massa wears when he acts the part of Maaargau. 
 
 Travelling in Jamaica one rainy day, a horseman 
 took shelter in a nigger's hut, and found the rain i)our- 
 ing through a big hole in the roof. 
 
 'Why don't you mend the hole, Sambo?' said he. 
 
 'Eh massa, it do da rain, I get wet — no can mend 
 'im.' 
 
 'But why do you not mend it in fine weather?' said 
 the other. 
 
 '0 massa, den 'im no da want mending/ said tlic 
 (••jntented Sandjo. 
 
 In Xova Scotia the complaint was that niggers 
 settled there would do nothing ; and in Canada most of 
 the crime committed was attributed, rightly or wrongly, 
 to lazy contrabands. 
 
 In the streets of London may be seen a big cane 
 upon wheels, in which a costermonger keeps a menagerie. 
 There is a sleepy owl, a pert magpie, a kestrel or two, a 
 great fat drowsy cat, some mice, some London sparrows, 
 
378 
 
 AX AMKIMCAN TKAMI'. 
 
 yr 
 
 ii I'iivcii, a r{ibl)it or two, nits, a terrier, and other crea- 
 tures wlio disagree when outside tlieir ])rison. TIk? 
 owner ' feeds 'em well,' and they do not take the troultle 
 to fight, though well-led Americans do. The original 
 Ai'rican niggers were well le(l, and did not taki; the 
 trovd)lG to fight, according to Froude ; luit it will not do 
 to trust laziness too tar. The present African is always 
 at war. The American nigger does not want to fight, 
 but when he is driven to it he is too lazy to stop, too 
 careless to care about his life ; and some of the wild 
 ones may do wild work. They are not all black, and 
 some may partake of their fathers' pugnacious energy. 
 
 Traditions are straws which show the way the wind 
 blows ; and nigger stories are full of horrors. 
 
 A AVest Indian lady, who lately died at the age of 
 eighty, used to terrify girls at her first English school with 
 stories learned from a nigger nurse. In one of these, 
 two white children get lost in a wood, and find the hut 
 of an old black crone, who puts them to l>ed. She puts 
 a large pot on the fire, sits down and sings, and, as she 
 sings, she rocks her body to and fro, and whets a knife 
 on the hearth-stone. The children wake and cry, 
 'Mammy, what a go so? Mammy, what a go so?' 
 ' Sliickety shack, shickety shack, shickety shack, shoo I 
 Vou go to sleep,' says the old dame. The gist of the 
 
A lil.AcK ()(;UK. 
 
 
 
 story is caimibalisiu, wJiidi mav be tract'd 
 
 111 OLiTO 
 
 stories nil over the world ; iuid tl 
 
 lese, black and white, 
 
 rue. 
 
 an^ I'ouiided on historical facts, if all histories be t 
 
 From the nursery to the play is an easy pk-asant 
 step, and sc.'ven-leagued boots are nothing to sti-ani, 
 telegraphs, printing, and memory On one side of ihi- 
 Atlantic here is II..p-o'-my-thund,. and the Christmas 
 Ogre— the very people who were going to eat the little 
 children— but in a different dress. Over the water, on the 
 Northern stage at least, stands Uncle loni. He is a quiet, 
 silent, patient, courageous, much-enduring, determined, 
 holy man ; and the fashion is to give him white wool, 
 and dress him like a parson in a white choker and a' 
 black coat. After the play a pipe and a book are good 
 before going to roost, liun over the leaves of Euro- 
 pean history, and by travelling Ihr enough into that 
 dark forest, the old Ogre's den is reached at last. Turn 
 to the last civil war, the French devolution of 18-i8, 
 and there stands a female savage with a string of eyes 
 and ears, and other trophies of men sawn in two be- 
 tween fir planks, and otherwise tortured to death in the 
 
 streets of Paris. She is one of "">— - — i-- 
 
 I'essed at the tinu 
 
 wnicn were su])]) 
 
 zation to be a mere varnish in I' 
 
 nie. They [)roved civili- 
 rance. Turn to the Irisli 
 
 papers during the ridiculous Irish rebel! 
 
 ion, and tlicri 
 
;^,8u 
 
 AN A.MKKK.AN T'lAMl' 
 
 • • . 
 
 
 •5 • 
 
 stalks the tallied savag(^ armed with vitriol and broken 
 glass, and other explosives which missed lire : he is in 
 America. Kun tlu; eve alon*-- the hook-shoU' and look 
 througli the titles into books of late Aiiican travel, Du 
 Chaillu, Gordon Cuniiuiiig, Burton, Mungo Park, Living- 
 stone, Grant ; and there in Africa sits the black Cannibal 
 Ogre whetting his big knife. ' Shickety shack' Xow 
 ])eep into the ' Ibrbiddcn book' which contains a record 
 of slave life in the Southern States, culled from Scnithern 
 daily papers, by abolitionists, all the evil sifted out and 
 made into oue hideous mess of horrible crime. Now 
 look at a Hie of daily papers Ijought at random this 
 year, kicking about in an arm-chair. Out of that heap 
 rises a train of horrible hideous crimes, the offspring of 
 civil war, and the face of a man with a buUet-hole and 
 hospital gangrene in his throat. Skip victories and 
 totals, look for once at units, for units suffer the horrors 
 of war alone. With these pictures in the 'baccy-reek, 
 listen to the voice of the people expressed in song. In 
 the last British civil war the British O^'re was far awav, 
 and the savage was a gentle savage, tender and true. 
 The burden of his songs were, ' Bonny Prince Charley, 
 wlia wadna fight for him ?' ' They were the lads that 
 wad dee for Prince Charley;' 'How beauteous and 
 sweet is the voice of my doggie.' Listen now. From 
 
 t 
 
Ills A NTH KM, 
 
 :isi. 
 
 and brtikeii 
 "G : lie is ill 
 'ir and look 
 1 truvel, Du 
 'ark, Liviiig- 
 ek Cannibal 
 lack.' Xow 
 ins a record 
 »m Scnitliern 
 'ted out and 
 dnie. Now 
 andoni tliis 
 f that heap 
 offspring of 
 [ct-hole and 
 ctories and 
 the horrors 
 'baccy-reek, 
 1 song. In 
 is far awav, 
 r and true, 
 ce Charley, 
 3 lads that 
 uteous and 
 ow. From 
 
 tlic S.nitli conu's „iie rheery martial :,ii of •The bunny 
 '•lue Ha- that bears a sin-lc star.' JUit tl..^ .liivnlry is 
 smothered by the all-pervading nigger m-lndies wliose 
 echoes rnml)le inside the barrel-organs of .nir own streets. 
 There they go, grotescpie and hideous as the piratical, 
 slave-dealing, fanatical sailor on board the 'Jesus' ..1 
 Lnbec — 
 
 Mass.i's run iiway. 
 Tlieiv'H wine aii.l liquor in de cellar, 
 
 And de nig^ors will hab some. 
 I guess urn all I.l- c.nfisicated when di- Lincuni guubout.s 
 
 conio. 
 I guess I think df kingdom coming, 
 
 And de year ob jnbalo. 
 
 Banjo in hand, there stalk murder and rapine, 
 dressed in psalms — 
 
 John Brown's body lies bui-ied in the grave, 
 
 But his soul goes marchin" ahju". 
 We'll hang Jeff Davis on the sour apple tree. 
 Chorus— Glory, glory, Hallelujah. 
 
 With this hideous nigger-concert ringing from New- 
 foundland to the Potomac— the only popular melodies of 
 the United States— take up the English daily papers 
 and read — 
 
 Lagos, Dec. 11.— Trade very brisk since the roads from 
 Abeokuta had been opened. A great (piautity of cotton was 
 
382 
 
 AN AMKIMCAN 'I'llAMI'. 
 
 daily iirriviii;;. 'riarc \\\iv at Icasl ITjOO liali'.- in tlif Idwn 
 wla-ii llic mail \^\{ ; 12(K» lialcswon' lnuii^'lit In- tlu- * Aniicnian.' 
 'I'lu'if wtii- ir)(M» slaves in iroiiH and itady I'm' slii|inn'nt at 
 Wliydah. HcV Majesty's ship Zclna was stationed dH" the jMivt, 
 and luitl her Itoats ciiiisin;^' in search ctf the vessel, which is a 
 lari,fe steamer, said Id l>e the one that has made several voyages, 
 with large cargoes, and tlu; one that has given our cruisers such 
 annovance on more than one occasion.' 
 
 > » 
 
 Turn the paf,'e and read again — 
 
 New York, Dec. 30.— Admiral Porter reports — that his whole 
 lleet bombardetl Fort Fisher, and was boat oil', etc. etc. 
 
 By the help of negroes the South may go on fighting for 
 years. 
 
 Driven hard, the u])lK)ldcrs of 'the bonny bhie Hag' 
 .speak very bitter words, and may yet do desperate 
 deeds. The savage is roused, and up and doing. If 
 they all sing loud enough and long enough tliey may 
 wake the ogres, black and white. Dahomey may 
 shari")en his Fan-knife, and chant the anthem of 
 ' shickety shack, shickety shack, shickety shack, shoo.' 
 
 The present performance may end in a blaze, to 
 \\hich all the red fire yet expended is nothing ; and 
 here, with eyes blinded with paper for lack of silver 
 dollar.s are slaveholders heaping fresh black African 
 savage fuel upon their own hearths. 
 
 AVhat is to be done with this everlasting nigger who 
 
A IMVINK INSTITlTInN. 
 
 Oyl.J 
 
 Spoiled my bivakfjist ' In I8.*i2 a very stiiinj^c luidk 
 was ]ml)lislK'(l at Cliarlcstoii. It is called the Tnt- 
 slavery Arnuiiicnt. There are 4'.M) [>a<j;('.s ol" it, and, 
 accordinj]? to it, slavery is n divine institution — one ol" 
 the {i^reatest ])lGssin^.s bestowed on the human race. The 
 ra])ping-spirit3 oi" Hawkins and (.^)ueen I'x'ss must 
 surely have guided the ])ens of these writers. Head- 
 ing history, sacred and ])rofane, through (htllar eye- 
 glasses, and winking hard at each other, these Southerns 
 saw no harm in slavery, and foresaw none to them- 
 selves ; and the Southern papers still go on quoting 
 Scripture as the companion of Hawkins did when he 
 wrote his account of the nigger-hunt three hundred 
 years ago. The abolitionist, on the other hand, still 
 hurls his texts at the foe, and with a nigger regiment 
 in each eye, the North falls to extracting niggers and 
 cotton from neighbouring eyes. ' liinc ilhe lachryma'.' 
 They all saw darkly, and down they went into the 
 trenches. ' He who is at rest thinks his own hand 
 best at the plough : ' one who has neitlier niggers nor 
 dollars may perchance see as far into this millstone 
 as those who wear it and have iheir own interests in 
 their mental eyes ; but this everlasting nigger problem 
 is too dark to see through. ' What do you want to do V 
 I said one day to a Scotch chartist turned American 
 
3R4 
 
 AN AMI'.I.'KAN ITWII' 
 
 i' . 
 
 .♦«,• 
 
 I 
 
 r.iil viiy |K)lih'«'iaii, after Mil lioiir's ili'^russinn. ' NN'rll, I'll 
 tell yoii,' siiid lie. 'First \\l''\[ \vlii[ith<' Sdiitli. We don't 
 want to livc! near tlic cushciI aristocrats ; we'll oxterini- 
 iiatc tlicm aiul t'onliscat(! tlu'ir lands. Fioni tlio iiioinciit 
 tliuy lii'L'd on the lla<^' there was no other course oj)en.' 
 ' Wliat next? what will voii do with the nijiwrsr 
 ' We'll put them bet'on; us, and drive the Froncli out ol' 
 Mexico.' 'And then?' 'Why, then, we'll turn them 
 round and take Canada.' 'And then exhibit the 
 French Emperor and the Queen of F'nL,d;nid at IJar- 
 num's,' 1 suggested. 
 
 ' The Queen's a lady, sir,' said this cutter of Gor- 
 dian knots, gravely. 
 
 T can't make anything of the nigger ; I can't under- 
 stand the war. It is all about the nigger, but not for 
 his dear ike. Like little Peterkin, I have waiiden^d 
 asking tlie Yankee, ' What did they kill each other for?' 
 * 1 'm sure I do not know,' said he, ' but (the last battle) 
 was a glorious victory.' 
 
 An astu'^e politician said, 'Grattez le Paisse, et vous 
 verrez le Tartarre.' There is bull-beef under Yankee 
 hides ; when the Great Bear scratched Taurus he 
 caught a Tartar ; when Eeb met Yank then came the 
 tug of war ; but we have yet to see what will come of 
 scratching Uncle Tom. Effects follow their causes ; 
 
II. 'Wrll. I'll 
 til. Wc don't 
 
 w<''ll oxti'i'iui- 
 
 I lilt' iiionicnl 
 coiu'so open.' 
 
 the niggers r 
 French out of 
 
 II turn tlieni 
 exhibit the 
 
 Innd at I'.ar- 
 
 .itter of Gor- 
 
 ' can't under- 
 r, hut not for 
 ve wandered 
 ih other for?' 
 LO hast battle) 
 
 'usse, et vous 
 iider Yankee 
 Taurus he 
 en came the 
 will come of 
 leir causes ; 
 
 N'fN.SKNSK AMi iiiMMuN SKN.si:. ".x.*) 
 
 1 1'" IVesidentlilcos .stories; a sfo,v;,nd •,.„„,„„„ >,,,...• 
 >nad.' his ,s..n ' IVinc.. uf IfaJk' At Hrhunl ^^r used b. 
 sing— 
 
 'I'.iki- ail old wuinini and \\a>li lirf. 
 
 •All'i >tli|» Ilcl U|> to ill,. 1<IH ,•>, 
 
 Ami lay her mui ui'l ..n a nM lidsiv iii;,'lii, 
 And ,1 Imii.liv.l t(. mir l,iit sli.'ll I'lvi./,.. 
 <'iirry h>-v in. and nd, Ii.i d.-ui, dis, 
 And ki\(r h, r iip i,, the jaw, 
 And lay Ii.t dnu ,i l„.t l,v a j,,lly -uud tiiv, 
 And a liiindnd t,, ,,nr l.m di, '|1 ilmw. 
 
 It \v;is a \ iil-jir .s(,ng, but c.uiun.u s.-usc. 
 
 <}ivea tamed savage a .stri[.ed hid.- fur battle-flag; 
 l'l'"b.gTa].h liiiu, writ.' alnm! liiui, put liiiu ..ii IIh- stage, 
 '" '^"' l'^''l''*- •" the trenches : give him a niu„..|..,ly of 
 l»'»j>ul:ir songs, hyinus, uiusir, aiid dainvs; uiore tlii.i, 
 his share of tjie worst laws ; njve hini no e.luealiou, the 
 woe.s and rank of a martyr, en. .ugh ndi-ioii to luake a 
 ''i""<'<''<li'ill ''Hough to mak.- a good s.ddi.-r of a man 
 with strong brute i.a.ssions nnd sound wiis in a s.,uinl 
 body— a man able to reason, cond)ine, Ibre.see, conspire, 
 and act in conceit with other .strong men uu.ljr a lead.-r ; 
 give him a bjiyonet and a log, .show him g.M.d rations ;— 
 and a hundred to one but he'll -ilare up and join the 
 Union"' in splitting its.df to ehij.s fo cook rations oj 
 Vankee beef. That bla(l< ogr ■ will _n,,bbh' up the.s..- 
 
 2 c 
 
38<; 
 
 AN A,.IKI{|rAN TI{A.MI'. 
 
 two wliite cliildivu in tin; backwotxl.s, unless tlicy take 
 care. Tlieir ciiiel uncle is that Uncle Tom, who j^ave 
 me cold bacon and sauce for breakfast ; and he will say 
 ,nrace, and sing his national antliems, if lie gets the 
 upper hand. One sings, 
 
 " We'll liiuiK .Tcfr Davis on dc sour a)>i>lt'-tr('t' ;" 
 anotlier answers, 
 
 "We'll liail.LC Abe LilTolii ;" 
 
 and a third has, 
 
 "Tln-po rousing clieers for tlie British grenailiers. 
 Ilallejujali !" 
 
 A feast of boulders in the prairie was better than 
 such grim thoughts. 
 
ciiAi'Ti;i; xix. 
 
 PAIiTIN.;. 
 
 Ti.f: mil fro,,, Ci,u.,,„„atf sl„,.|s a, M i;.,.,. .,u„„. ,|„. 
 nvf,., runs .Iou-„, ,„„| ,l„w,.-s(,-ea,„ alo,,. ||,, ,.iv..,-|.la,„ 
 
 !".■ so„>e ,lista„c., a„,lM,e,i |,nss,.salatc.,„l vall..v,l„. ,, 
 
 lM,ul. l.a,.k. „r.st,.atifi„l o,T,v.,.l. Tl„. .iv,.,. Ati i a.^.l 
 
 Wh.to Water are ,.,v,sso,l. ,)„e j, ,„|,„„.„.| ^^.j^^ ,„^,^^^, 
 '^'ay very like „„, „*„„ „,■ j,,,,,,,,,.,;,,.,,^ ^^^ ,_^_;;^^^_ 
 npol,. the harnmeter o„ly ,„arke,l 12.-, t..,-! al,.,v,. tl„. 
 
 <>I„o. l.^T ,niles away, a,„l tl„. I„,l,es, |,„i,„ ,„„,, 
 
 -as enly 450. Tl.e to,, of the hill ahove (■i„,.i„„a„ 
 IS th„s nearly a., high ,s the highest p«i„. „„ ih„ j„„,,„., 
 
 "'"'■""""■>• ^""^'"'-^ "'■ .-"■^Mlat allavial ,,lai„s, with 
 ''"'">'1"1 Ii>>K>«to„e i.,la,„l.s ,.i.si„. i„ ,|,.. ,„, „,■ ,,.„„„. 
 
 "'■■„. It .see„,s i,„|,o.,..il,h. thai rai„-«-atei- ,„„ have 
 'lone .,0 ,n„..h work without washi, , the .sa,„l oh 
 
 *'"■ •'"' "' t''"""'»'' At r„.lia, li,. „„,. „„.,.ee,l 
 
 '■'v--plni,.s were f,a„„l t ,„„(„ ,„„,, ,„„, ,,„sl,.„.al..,. 
 
 »l.-lls „,i.ve,l with ,i„,..a,„l,,|„.|„„.,„t „,,,,„.„ ,.„„.„„ 
 
388 
 
 .\\ AMI'HrC.W T1{AM1' 
 
 >: 
 
 » .' t. 
 
 upon bouUlcT-clay, in vliicli the rivers bad iliig their 
 beds. The rain-water lias washed and sorted gravel, 
 sand, and mud, and some of the clay has been cleared 
 from the l)ig stones. That is all the deimdation which 
 has been accomplished by rain-water since the drift 
 period. The engines now at work are unable to carry 
 one of the big l)0idders a yard. There is no fall, and no 
 great head of water can gather in such a jdain. 
 
 The solitary Sunday walk was amusing pastime, 
 but notes of it would be egregiously dull ; and heavy as 
 the boulders. 
 
 On ^Monday returned to Chicago, and on the way 
 saw things wdn"ch men very seldom se(! in the Old 
 Country. 
 
 At (Chicago parted from a pleasant comrade, who is 
 a cai)ital traveller. 
 
 What wandering animals men are 1 We, who stood 
 side bv side near the top of Eyriks Jokul in Iceland a 
 couple of years ago, chanced to meet in a London ball- 
 room in July. One had been to Egypt and Palestine, 
 the other a long way. 
 
 * Will you go to America V said one ; ' I'm going.'" 
 
 ' Well, 1 don't care if I do,' said the other. 
 
 Since then one had been to the Labrador, the other 
 into all sorts of queer places. We had scaled Wash- 
 
I)INL\(;. 
 
 389 
 
 I (lug tlieii- 
 ded gravf^l, 
 een cleared 
 ation wliicli 
 !0 the drift 
 )le to carry 
 fall, and no 
 n. 
 
 \g pastime, 
 id lieavy as 
 
 m the way 
 in the Old 
 
 'ade, who is 
 
 ington and dived to Lethe togetlier. Now, after a h.Dg 
 tramp here in the middle of Xorth America, amongst a 
 wandering race like ourselves, we parted ; hoping soon 
 to meet again, like a pair <.f scissors. One meant to go 
 through the Oulf of .Mexico to ^Montreal, tlie other 
 intended to go througli Washington and Jloston t.. 
 Albany, Xew York, and London. We are Ih-itons, and 
 like each other well ; but we neither wep^ nor embraced. 
 We dined and drank a bottle of Catawba, went together 
 to the dep.jt, took opposite ends of the broken port- 
 manteau and carried it to the car, and then we shook 
 hands and parted for opposite ends of the earth. After 
 London we ho])e to go to Greenland. One has so far 
 accomplished his object, and sincerely hopes that the 
 other may prosper in all his ways. 
 
 , who stood 
 1 Iceland a 
 ondon ball- 
 I Palestine, 
 
 1 going. 
 
 Gastronomy is not much in our line, but here is our 
 last bill of fare for the benetit of those who care to know 
 what a dinner is like in Chicago, where men pay four 
 >reenbacks a day, or about eight siiiUings, lor board and 
 lodging : — 
 
 ( 
 
 r, the other 
 lied Wash- 
 
MlHI 
 
 AN A.\li:i;|( AN TIJA.MI' 
 
 ■ » 
 
 
 TRKM OXT. 
 
 Five udock Ordianrii. Wetliusda//, (Jet. IS, 18(M. 
 
 Sdfl'. 
 
 ( 'orii. 
 
 I'lSlI. 
 
 Diikcd Wliite Fish, Stutii'il. 
 
 i;nll.r.l» DISJIKS. lldASI' DISUKS. 
 
 |)iillicl(r.s Siigar-ciirtMl jlain, I'uKl. Diillicld'.s Jlam, CliaiiiiiiigiieSuiicf 
 ( 'iiriird Href, Cabluigi', 
 
 Wi'vL 
 
 Tx't'l' Toiigiii'. Young rig, Stulibd. 
 
 lOl.U DIsHKS. 
 < 't)lil Huast I'laiiit.' Chiekriis. (.'old Koast Lamb. Cold Koast litrf. 
 
 SI UK Dl.sllKS. 
 
 Killi'ts of Hi'i'f ISroik'il, Mushroom Sauce. \'cal ('lio|is, a hi Jardinit r. 
 Harricot ol' Mutton. Boiled I't'lery with Ham, Egg .Sauce. 
 
 Worcestershire Sauce. 
 French Mustard. 
 
 KKMSlir.S. 
 
 Olives. 
 Horseradish. 
 
 Kaw Tomatoes. 
 Cold Slaw. 
 
 vi:(;ktai!I,ks. 
 
 Hoih'd Potatoes. Sijuash. Mashed Potatoes. Fried Egg- Plant. 
 
 New Beets. Ptoilecl Onions. 
 
 Boiled Kice. Stewed Tomatoes. Fried Sweet i'otatoes. 
 
 (;.\MK. 
 Koast Mallaivl Ducks. 
 
 (^hiin'H' Pies. 
 Floatiu"; Island 
 
 Tapioca Pudding. 
 A.s.sorted Cakes. 
 
 I'.VSTIIY. 
 
 ( 'ustard Pies. 
 Iiasplierry Tarts. 
 
 nr.ssKiir. 
 
 .Mnionds. Apples. Kaisins. English Walnuts. Hiekoiy Nuts. 
 
 Fillierts. Psabella drapes. Lemon Ice Cicani. CoH'et 
 
 ' y ■•**! 
 
 It is lime to ivcl ujt tlii.s lnii^ yuni. The Kaslcni 
 States aiv well known, and liave been described l)v ablei' 
 
KLUCTKJNKtlHINii. 
 
 •Mn 
 
 'old Koast Beef. 
 
 •icd K-r'^-riaiif. 
 
 <\veet Potatoes. 
 
 pens. Tlu. journal of u m.-re scmtch-Jmnt.r, pciiiiecl 
 while he was bored himseli; Nvoiikl be an atllietinn t,.o 
 gnevous to be borne. 
 
 The election was seen, and it was evident tliat a 
 working majority of tlie Xorthern p.-nple wanted t.. 
 fight by depnty, and meant to elect Lincln; while a 
 hirge minorityjiable to be deputed, did not want b. 
 light, and conl.I not manage to elect their camlidate. It 
 was evident that every possible electioneering dodge was 
 practised in order to swell the ma.jority. All the soldiers 
 sent home to vote aj.peared to be quiet s^ aly men, si- 
 lent and decided, determined to vote for Lincohuind fight. 
 1 never met one who said he would vote i'or little Mac. 
 As a man remarked one day, each was good for three 
 votes at home. On the other hand, all the noisy, royster- 
 ing, cheering, shouting, or sulky crowds, who were going 
 away from home to be drilled, about election time, roared 
 and shouted, ' Jfurrah for M'Clellan :' The army had as 
 much right to express an opinion as any other body, ,so 
 it was all i\uv, but nevertheless it was a dodge, and the 
 President is seated on bayonets, some of ^hich air. 
 lield by black men. It is to be hoped he likes his 
 place. It also appeared that free shouting is good for 
 the constitution. At Jioston two rival parties had 
 rival processions on ddlerent nights. They marched 
 with torches and lireworks. paraded the stnvls, luid 
 
'My2 
 
 AN ami; IMC AN TRAM I'. 
 
 •' ,. ' 
 
 • , •» 
 
 " J 
 
 yelled. One jtrucessiuii was almost exclusively Irish, 
 and the spectators were of the same persuasion. The 
 Lincoln procession was not so Irish, hut there! were 
 Irishmen in it, and it was rumoured that Southein 
 raiders were in ,'dl the towns ready to tire them. The 
 processions niet, shouted, and j)arted, without exchang- 
 ing a Itlow. In Belfast, rivals beat one another about 
 nothing, soundly, for three days. In the lioston crowd, 
 I Ibuud busy hands where revolvers or bowie-knives 
 are usually worn, and thought I felt the hand of the 
 l)olice rather than the pickpocket. r>ut if the police- 
 man was there at all he was in plain clothes, and he had 
 nothing to do. On the election day a deal of printer's 
 ink was wasted ; the day after, no sym])tom of excitement 
 remained. The people descended into the street.s, as they 
 say in Paris, but the people did no harm to the other 
 people, and they ascended to bed after their descent. 
 
 Ill New York it was the same ; rows and raids were 
 expected, none came. I heard street speeches made in 
 German and English, by Jews, and by all sorts of 
 orators. These and other fireworks exploded freely in 
 the streets, out there was no street fight. 
 
 Tired and bored I went to bed in the best marble 
 palace in the place. My door opened, and in walked a 
 stranger without luggage. ' Sorry to disturl) you,' he said, 
 ' but the hotel is very full, niid 1 am come to sloe[i here.' 
 
IIAIIt-MlUSillNC. 
 
 'Mr' 
 
 It was u double-btHldud room with two Ix-is in it, .,, ,,i 
 he rolled, :nu\ I tho,,uI,t n,, nioiv of him till mnnimn. 
 Ho rose early and donuvd his .L.thcs, and tli.ii a ven- 
 Uermau voice said—' Sar shall I use your l.rushes '.' 
 
 Not even in the far west had I m,'t with this l.ciii- 
 l)ut I had read of one like it in some hook ..r (^thcr, 
 and the tooth-hrush Hashed into my mind. 
 
 ' Sir/ 1 said from my l.hmkets, ' if you will kindly usr 
 the brush with the Ion- handle, I sliould j-refcr it.' 
 
 ' Thank you, sar,' he said, and diduse it ..n his frowsty 
 head. It was one specially bou-ht for l)rushin,i>- dusty 
 coats and shoes, and constantly used for that purpo.se 
 fnr some months. How I did inwardly urin at my bed- 
 fellow ! 
 
 Snobs and savages chielly reside in bi,L,r towns and 
 marble palace hotels like the Fifth A\rnue. Close 
 alongside of 'the upper ten thousand,' of whom 1 can 
 say nothing, f„r I know nothing about them, Knglish 
 travellers congregate and meet the lieings whom th.y 
 descril)e. The American peophi are to be found at 
 their own firesides, or at their several occupations, 
 and, so far as I am able to judge, they are remarkably 
 like people with whom T am accust.mied to e(.nsort 
 at home. I like them. I f,,uml no ill-feeling towards 
 Kngland amongst th.^n ; they did not seem to di.s- 
 like me. Knless snobs, .laves, d.,llai's, an^l sava-.^s 
 
:;!i4 
 
 AN A.MKIMCAN 'I'ltAMI'. 
 
 M 
 
 si't tliciii by tlic cars. I sec n(» icasoii why .I<iliii lUiU 
 should not livu in peace willi his laiiiilv ol' lii'litiuj' 
 giants. [[' any one of them tbrguts his ])atei"nal duty, 
 1 h(? rest will hack the old 'un, and he is not yet played 
 out I'or all that is come and g(jnc. 
 
 The result oi' the search after I'lacial murks is tohl 
 in the first chapter. 
 
 Houlders abound aljng the watershed of the Ohio 
 and St. Lawrence, between Chicago and Sandusky. 
 According to the survey it is about loGl3 to lOGo feet 
 above the sea. The bctulders on the watershed had got 
 over their greatest dilliculty, and might, like an old 
 wife, go down-hill to Pittsburg on the Ohio, which is 975 
 feet above the sea. A long search about Tittsburg failed 
 to discover a single specimen of azoic rock or a big 
 stone. No sign of glacial action wiis iletected in cross- 
 ing the mountains to llarrisburg. There, according to 
 Dana's ' Geology,' glacial strite are found on the top 
 of Peter's Mountain, so a day was devoted to a search 
 there in spite of the .ery unpromising look of the 
 hills. They are all sharp, broken A ridges of broken 
 sandstone beds, crumj)led up into long mountains, 
 with long valleys Ijctween. The rough walk up was 
 over fallen angular stones, through a forest. The top 
 had no symptom of an ice-mark, but there may be marks 
 elsewhere on tlie ridge. At Washington is a bed very 
 
 ->4 
 
•^('KAIVIIKS, 
 
 ;;:•;. 
 
 • .Icliii lUiU 
 
 of li<'litiii«' 
 
 ten 111 I (liitv, 
 
 t yet played 
 
 iirks is told 
 
 L)t' tlie Oliio 
 Scindufsky. 
 to 1003 feet 
 led liad got 
 like an old 
 .iiicli is 975 
 sburg failed 
 dv or a big 
 ed in ci'oss- 
 ceordiiig to 
 on the top 
 to a search 
 ook of the 
 s of broken 
 mountains, 
 dk up was 
 The toj) 
 y be marks 
 a bed ver\' 
 
 lil«* boulder-el 
 
 ly, Ijul after lliive dav 
 
 ^ M<» seratehed 
 
 
 boulder or n-.k was foun.l. (Joing nortl,, marks 
 ^^•cMv abundant near X.-w Vork, and all th.. way to 
 IJoston. Along ti,.- n ute to Albany, wlneh erosses the 
 Green Mountains, mounds of water-worn gravel wen- 
 <ound on the highest pass, at the end of a hollow where 
 no large river eould get. These eorrespond to similar 
 deposits on the same chain of mountains farther north. 
 Descending from these mountains, on a very line elear 
 afternoon, the Catskills, Adirondaks, and oth.-r dis- 
 tant mountains, were se.-n uj.oii a Hat blue horizon. 
 They suggested familiar eapes and headlands an.l well- 
 known sea-views. AVithout the shells and the whale, 
 the hills themselves suggested an ancient coiist. When 
 the watershed of the j.lains rose s., high as to make a 
 dam from the Alleghanies to the Uocky Mountains^ thr 
 Arctic Current would be shunted through this low 
 Iiollow. in ascending the face of the Catskill escai-p- 
 
 ment, above Catskill vill 
 
 ii tray, 1 found a I'oek whiel 
 
 igo, with a niggei-, a pony, and 
 
 I is very like the terracetl 
 
 I'cd cliff in the Straits of IVll,isle, marked with liori- 
 /ontal grooves exactly as .lescribc'd by l'rofess(jr 1 
 in May 1859. 
 The marl 
 
 tanisa\ 
 
 ks seem to follow the \cr\- 
 
 (.'"Ul'Se which 
 
 stream would follow if 
 
 '•iiiiic out of the Canad 
 
 lan 
 
 (,»uartrrlv Jdiinial n[^ the (.Jim,!,,..;,;,! >s; 
 
 IH'IctV. 
 
.'^ur, 
 
 W A.MKliK AN IIIAMI'. 
 
 * 
 
 » * 
 
 • i . • 
 
 ^ •., ^ * ! 
 
 biisiii, ;i!i(l was iij» to tlu' Iniiii ui" il. ( )i; tin- tojt, llic 
 marks, no longer lifM in l»,v lln- ^ivat wall of rock, break 
 loose, and ])oinl away down towards tliu soiitli-wcstcrn 
 valleys ahoiit I'eter's Mountain, in the valley of the 
 Sus([ne]ianna thei'e are many lai'^e stones which re- 
 SLMnhle rocks iicic ; and it may he that iee-ral'ls went 
 that way, tl'Mieh iceheres wen* shuiitud towards New 
 Vork. A ercat^ many of these rock-surtaces were eojtied, 
 and an expedition made to the top oi' Ilieli iVak to 
 look for more marks. None were found there. The 
 ground is covered with dense forest, underwood, and 
 hrush, so tangled that, after forcing a way through a 
 thi(d;et, guide and traveller found themselves on the 
 hriid-: (j1' an unex})ected precijtice, with the grandest 
 view seen hy them in America at their very feet. It 
 was not like mountain-views anywhere else — it was 
 the lookout over a wide ])lain, with low swelling ridges 
 and gleaming water on the distant horizon and in the 
 plain l)elow. It was such a view as a man nught get 
 from a halloon, it he were in Lond)ardy out ol' sight of 
 the High Alps. A fcnv flakes of snow told that winter 
 had come at last, and next day it was a white world in 
 the Catskills, with a thermometer at^ 22'. 
 
 At New York, glaeiation is cons]>icuous in Broad- 
 way and in the New Park, and the marks aim back 
 at the Catskills and the Lirave of the N'crmoiit whale. 
 
\i tlu' to]i, the 
 (if i(i('l\, lii'cak 
 soutli-wcstciii 
 valley ol' the 
 ics Mliicli IV- 
 icc-raris Weill 
 towartls N(,'W 
 ,'S wei'i! copied, 
 lii-li IVak t(i 
 (1 IIr'IW The 
 iderwood, ami 
 vay tlii'im^li a 
 selves oil the 
 the uraudest 
 eiy leel. It 
 'Ise — it was 
 welliiiii' ridijes 
 n and ill the 
 111 luij^ht get 
 Hit ol' sight (»t' 
 I that winter 
 hite world in 
 
 oils in Ik'oad- 
 I'ks aim baek 
 ■niiunt whale. 
 
 coMl.isioN. 
 
 •M)7 
 
 Beyond New V'ork, ahoiil the new loits w iiieh are seen 
 fVoni llu; steamer, itilos ol" the old houldcrs were seen 
 with a strong glass, behind the big guns wiiicli aro 
 |)laiite(l there to resist invadt^rs. The I'aets observed 
 entirely sui>[)ort the \ iew exjiressed in I'lnfcssoi' b'ani- 
 say's iiapei' above (|Uoted. The marks on 1 he ( 'atskills 
 are like marks tlmt would result IVom (he movements 
 of ieebeigs in M'in tor-drift nioveil by an oeean-eurrent 
 and by local tides. As a rule, they are horizontal, but 
 I found some which are vertical, and otlier^ which seem 
 U) ])liinge down into a r/'l-dc-sur, as stranded lu-rgs 
 might where the tide ebbed. On the watershed I found 
 drift containing boulders of the old pattern. 
 
 1 do not believe; that these stones were carried there 
 by a glacier whose source was at the North I'o'e, I do 
 believe that the Arctic Current, whose source is in tlu! 
 ])olar basin, carried them over America on ice-rafts, like 
 those which I have attempted to describe. 
 
 The journal from which thesi; leaves are taken w.as 
 not originally intended for ]»iiblication. For something 
 to do, Chapter I. was licked into .shape during a week of 
 wet weather at Boston, and a week at sea, and that 
 iimch was intended for a magazine article. The pub- 
 lishers sent back a .sheet, and, like < )liv"r Twist, asked 
 for more. Now they have got a volume. If wc' are 
 fortunate enouiih to find renders who will be eharitable 
 
I ' 
 
 :5!I.S 
 
 AN AMI'I.'K AN Tl;\MI' 
 
 to siicli liiinicd loiic^li WMiI<, \\r iiin\ nil Im- us t liiiiikriil 
 
 iis (illc i)\' IIS wiis w hell lie Ii:ii| ^nt tlll'(HlL;|i lijs A liP l'i<;i II 
 
 Triniii*.' 
 
 • lllj, tiiy |ili.|>|ii-lli'>iilir my mirlc' M ■A»/"'"'''i li"!'! T'lt, 
 
 ' I HilVt, a.< III lllll'IMIII allllllllll', 
 
 Till' luiliiiH'i' III till' liiiiil III Tliiii' . 
 ll'iTi';i»l mill Met In Ihmiii iiii|ii |i.|. i|, 
 Ami ilii) Hllli nil il^ li'iiir^ III' lUlit, 
 Wa-'.limlj ^iiikjiiu' Mill iifsii/lil. I.ii,i'if,ll'iii\ l-,M. 
 
 I III'! I III' "I' ill' till' Ik a. I |.llllll|i'll ^tniU'lit, 
 
 A II. I 111! II', I ll'i.M , » 1^ III. Ill '.I Wi'ljlil.' /(;./.,» li'll'l I, \ II "ll. 
 
 A sr\\si;i |.l'-('K( r. W I'lsjvx \t;l 
 
 ), ill) 
 
 Tiiiiik Mil iliiv «lh'ii vr 111..!,,. I,, I,. 
 
■ lis Hiaiiklul 
 is • All!' ri''iiii 
 
 A r p i: N I) I \ 
 
 Nn. I. ( 1,1. M ATI-: 
 
 As acui'i(tiis (■(iiitiast to Aiiiciicaii Wfallicr. |iarl ••! 
 tlic siuiiiiiary nl' Mii^lisli wrallicr, |iiilili^ln'il in iIm' 
 7'iiihs (if -laiiuarv 4, iiiav l>c adilcd. 
 
 In Mav. a lied of scalers wcic IVd/t'ii in. liaiil ami 
 last, (AX Tdulinu'Ut't, in Ncwluiunllanil, ami inan\ disas- 
 ters occurred. 
 
 .Icm:. 
 
 I'.aiMiiictiT >lc,iil\ , IirldW ;'a> ill., I'Mi'pt nil tl:r r.'tli ;iii(| l'ihIi. 
 Altlieii;^li lain WW mi 17 davs, tin it wiiv niilx i'> with aii\ 
 I'oiisidcraMt' aiiiniint ; a (|Uartri' u|' an imli lill on llic -J'AA and 
 
 i.stli. Scv.ic tVii>t- 
 
 K'clincd nil llic 1 ~t and lM, tlic iiii'miii" m 
 
 tciiqifi'aturc un tiir 1st lalliiiL; In ;',(i-") dr;^-.. ami "H the i^r.i-- in 
 '2'.V',] {\v'j.. ; tlic ttni|M-i'atmv iic\cr rcaclicii mi dv^. dining tlir 
 nioiitli. ("(iiisidt'i'al*!"' wind cliaiimv- occuritil nii the '.'A and Dili : 
 mi till' 1st tlici't' was ice at 7 a.m., and tlic damage tn icinlcr 
 plaiits was Lii'cat ; !»tli, tliniidci>tniiii : Kuli, >t raw licii ic- ripe; 
 1 Itli. vast nmid'cr n|' ,ulin-t mntli .. llmndt r ; 1 I'tli. riiiimi-. ^..lai 
 l)licniiiiiciiiiii ; I'Sth, '^alc ; :i:M, tliiindii'. 
 
■ass 
 
 400 
 
 ArpKNrtix. 
 
 t 
 
 >• 
 
 At Indian Tickle, (»n tlic Labrador ('oast, the sm 
 
 trozp in the liarljoiirs. so that fisliinn-boats could liardl\ 
 
 get out. Drift autl })a(d>: ice extended 150 ndlcs from 
 
 the shore. Icebergs alxninded. Some sounds were still 
 
 frozen over. 
 
 July. 
 
 Barometer tolerably steady at 29'S in. Rain fell on the 2(1 
 and otl. after which none till the 22(1, and then oidy four day.V 
 rain to tln' end of the month ; the whole montli oidy yieldcil 
 half an inch of rain. No frost orcmicd in July. The ti-m- 
 jjerature was hij^'li from tJie I4th to the 2 1st, hein.i;' 84'3 dej^-. 
 on the 17th, H:r2 de-. on the 19th, and .^4 di-. on the 20th ; 
 it was again hot from the 27tli to the 30th, reachin,t,' 80-(! ileg. 
 on the 30tli. The mean tempcratnre was above 70 dei;-. on the 
 li)th and 20th. The sky very free from cloud on the 14th, 
 15th, isth, 20th, 24th, and 29th. Great wind chancres oecurred 
 on the 6th, 7th, 14th, 1 7th, Ihth, 25th, an.l 27th ; 2bth, many 
 thunderclouds. 
 
 For teiu])erature in the Atlantic, see the table below. 
 On the Coast of I^aln-ador and Newfoundland the tem- 
 perature of air and water was about 37" to 47". Niinie- 
 rons icebergs and large ])ieces of ice an(i small pack were 
 drifting off the cojist. Narrow sounds and some har- 
 bours were still frozen over at the end of the month. 
 
 . ' ' 
 
 AuciUST. 
 P.arometer steady, with a rajiid rise on the niornin,, 4' tli 
 
1" Coast, tlic Si'a 
 ats could linr("(l\ 
 150 iiiilus iVoiii 
 rounds wore still 
 
 ain fell on the 2(1 
 tiu only fcnir days' 
 lontli only yields I 
 .hdy. The teni- 
 ;t, liein.i;' 84'3 dej^'. 
 !(•-. on the 2()tli ; 
 I'cai'hiiii; HO'O ileg. 
 ivc 70 <k\L;. on the 
 iiud oil the 14th, 
 I changes occnrred 
 Till ; 28th, many 
 
 :he table below, 
 dliiiid the tein- 
 :<) 47^. Xiiiiie- 
 miali pack were 
 and some liar- 
 ' the iiioiith. 
 
 iiiDiiiin^ if till' 
 
 i'AIN AN!) SlNSllINi;. 
 1 1th, ivarhin-' alnivf 3(i-5 in. 
 
 401 
 
 '.ICcil 1( 
 
 -1 
 
 fa-lc\r| ol 
 
 1 till' nmrn- 
 
 111- of the 1 nth, alter which falliii- t., 2!)7 in. hv ll 
 
 "f the l!)th, X,, ,..,i„ fell 
 21.^t, 23d, 2sth, a 
 
 le niiifniiii; 
 
 except on the 7th, .sth, !)tli, KMli, 
 
 H<I -2^1 ; 0-2 in. fell.,,, the 9th, aln.ve half 
 
 an mcli on the 2lst,an<l al.ovi 
 
 a (jtiartei' nf an inch un the 2Sth 
 
 the amninit ..n other days was scarcely nieasnrah], 
 "» *li'^ 1st, ir)th, and 17th. Oah 
 24th, 30lL, and 31st. Fn.st 
 
 M 
 
 iicii o/iini 
 
 'I' the 2d, Sth, loth, 23. t. 
 
 27tli ; and in the va^l 
 
 s nccurre.l ..n the 22.1, 2Gth, an.l 
 
 vy on the 12th, l,sth, an.l 2511). Tl 
 
 were 3 dv<^. of fr.ist ..n tl 
 
 lel'e 
 
 It' 2 7th. The weather 
 
 was hot .111 th. 
 
 3d to the 8th, ..n the 12th to the KUh, an.l .,n the 2!>th an.l 
 
 30th, reachii 
 
 l,^' m the .shade 84-5 d 
 
 the 13th, 83-G de- on the 14th, 80-2 <h 
 
 ee-. (in th.' oth, M)'7 dt 
 
 on 
 
 •11 the ICi] 
 
 )n tl 
 
 1, ami SI •■) 
 
 le 30th. Sky alni.<st free from cl.ai.l .,ii th.' 1 J th, I 2th 
 
 13th, 14th, IGlh, 18th, 22.1, 24th, 25th, 2nih 2] 
 
 On the Ulh n 
 
 ( th, and 
 
 301 
 
 lany nu^teors an.l li-htnin- ; 21>t, tlnin.l..r>l 
 
 oim. 
 
 water-spout at Brighton, an.l earth.iuake at L 
 
 storm ; 2(;th an.l 27th, poiat. 
 
 win.l cham/e 
 
 I'Wes ; 23.1, thun.ler- 
 H's in valley cut hv fr.ist. Ci.at 
 
 and 2. 
 
 <'U th.. 3.1, 12th, I4ih, ICth, iMh, 2(M],. 24th 
 
 )tli. 
 
 Anr,. 27— Twenty-two lar-e pieces of ic.^ Nvere seen 
 from one hill in the latitude <.f Cheshire, and great 
 ]iumbers of hw^s and other ices were seen as far fiiouth 
 as Cape Puice. The weather was f„o,o.v an.l ebilly at 
 sea, hot and nmgoy where tJie sun shone, on shore. 
 Thermometer in shade seldom above ."ir up to th.- 28d 
 ^" I^abrador ami Xewibun.JI.n.l. (Jah-s, 8tli t.. l.'Uh. 
 
 L' 
 
402 
 
 M'l'KNKIX. 
 
 Skptemhei?. 
 
 The lianmiftcr was liclnw :M) iiulii-- until tlic ^Htli, ami tlicii 
 aliovc ; it fill IVdiii tin- 1 2t1i fo tlir ICtli tVoiu •2!»sni to 2!)M)!)l 
 ill. ivaiii i'fll on 1 4 days, liut tlic wlinlc amount Ava-; only an 
 incli, ol' Avliicli nine-tenths ot' an inch I'lU on six days, and only 
 a tiMilli on lilt', ciulit n'liiainin.L; days. Frosts orcnircd in tiic 
 valley on the llJtli and ir)th. The t( nipeiature never reached 
 74 (leg. ; o/.oiie was in laiye amount ext'ep! on tlu' ?>d, 4th, 21st, 
 and 2r)th to the end. There was hut little eloud on the 1st, 
 12tli, Ihth, and IVom 2:)t]i to 2l>th. ()n 2d, thunder ami li-ht- 
 iiing, and a reinarkahle solar heani ; 3d, a thunderstorm. No 
 great wind changes. Cales on 1st. ."th, Sth. !Mli, and 14tli ; 
 that on the !)th Idew ofl oiie-lialt' ol' the apples ; on 1 Ith, hail 
 and lightning ; 21>t, hail ; i'og on 2.">th, 2(ith, 27th, and 2m1i. 
 
 Fn Cniiada tlio wcatltoi- was vorv flno, wnnii, and 
 (li'v, witli occasiniial cold uiiids. 
 
 
 (X'Toni'.K. 
 The harometer fell from '.)()■{) in. on the Ijth to 2!)'() in. on 
 the 20tli, rising in the evening to 2!)-r) in., and falling to 28*8 in. 
 on the evening of the 22d, rising to 2!)'4 in. on the evening of 
 tlie 24t]i. No rain lell till the Kith ; the amount fallen on the 
 22d, 23d, aud 27th together was J -I in., and half an inch more 
 in the rt'inaining nine days. Frosts occurred on the IHtli, 21st, 
 and 31st; the temperature reaclu'il (i7"7 ileg. on the l!>tli ; the 
 sky was nearly cloudless on the (ith, and almost oveicast from 
 the 21st to the 3(»th. (!reat wind changes on the 21st, 24lh, 
 aud 2.^th. C.des ou the 4th, oth, and 17t]i. 
 
KKosr AND sT((1;M 
 111 the WvsUmi states liu. 
 
 •lo;; 
 
 ^\^•iltll('l• was vc'i'v fine 
 
 *"■'■;'"' '""' '''■•^- '" i-"">"ivv.i W..S „„,„. ,„„i s„r, 
 
 •■"'<• III'.' I.w.iua only l„.o„„,„, urn „„il„.l-il, l;,,;,, 
 'ull once. 
 
 ', warm, mid 
 
 X(JVi;.\ii:].:i{. 
 
 -^•^ 111. uli thr isth, :.',s-.-, 
 
 '"• iiKaiu (III the :i.-)ili,;,ii.l •2s-7 
 
 111. (Ill 
 
 (111 
 
 ""'■ ««"-b -n- .,,;„ ,,„ „,„ 13,1, ;,■,,„„ „,,.„n,,| 
 
 ;' "'^'"■^- ^■""■'■>- ->' ■■' ■ 'ill n„. ,s„, ,;,,,„ „,„„, 
 
 ;i-«-""tiu. .., I,, r,i,.s;i, ,,-,,,,,,,,,,, o ,,,^ ^„^,^.,,^. 
 
 Mal^-of 12 II,. |„vssii,v ,M, 
 
 'I"' -»'ii> iiiiuih,.,- ,,r h, II, „„ ,1,,, 
 
 l-'-lli, ,.M,I ..iWi-S „„ ||„. i,i,|,, iMi,, „„| y, 
 
 '»"'''« '''-'^l^ill MonnU,i,,.s. now,, .11 „„, I,, i;5i,. 
 
 l...l.XKi,„.s, au.l y.,a„,,i|^. i, ,,,„ ,.,,„„,i„„.|^. ,,^,|,( ^,,_^, 
 ".any. At X.w Y„Hc .,„ d,e U.k .1.. w™.!,,.,. .va.s 
 "■"'■'uer. No lV«»t. At .,.,. tl,. tl„.nn„„.„te,. «u. rca.! 
 
 ^■v.iy lour W,. ;«,.,, table. Tla, .e,„i,era(,„,. wa. ,lis- 
 1—-1 ill lanes, ,vl,i,,.l, ,,..,, ,,,,,^^^,_ ,„„, „,_^^ ,,.,,. _.^^^^^^ 
 
 -« clearly ,,c.,v,^,„il,|,.,o all „nl,„a,,l. I In |,a.<..in.. the 
 
 Ai'cl.e (■aiivnl ,„.,li„a,.y „.,..,_„„„,„.,. „.,.a,l„.. aa. r,.,n.l 
 ">> H„. w,..st eua.s, "■rr,..e„|e..or«ari„,n,.,islu,M,| 
 
•u>- 
 
 .Mi'i:M»i\. 
 
 Taiu,!', No. <;. ({rkatkst Colo Druixt; iiii; i'ast 
 
 Six Vkaiis. 
 
 .laiiuaiv . 
 
 Fclnuarv . 
 
 :\Iaivli 
 
 Apiii 
 
 .May 
 
 .luiio 
 
 .Inly 
 
 SflitfUllirr 
 NdVrllllicr 
 
 Di'ccnitirr 
 Miiiinniiii 
 
 ISIil. 
 
 77 
 17 -J 
 
 110 
 
 :'.7-ti 
 •31-0 
 •27-0 
 1 .")•(» 
 
 iNt 
 
 :i. 
 
 
 2ii 
 
 It 
 
 21 
 
 II 
 
 
 •ii 
 
 I-J 
 
 •(1 
 •I 
 
 t>7 
 
 •1 
 
 ;!i 
 
 'T) 
 
 •27 
 
 
 •25 
 
 ■;') 
 
 iMi-J. !S('.I. i ISl'iO, ; IS.Mi. 
 
 IV.U'. 
 
 1 ).'.-. 
 
 \h-'/. 
 
 11l-(» 
 
 if.-r. 
 
 22 
 
 20 l 
 
 2:5'r. 
 
 llfS 
 
 IS-f) 
 
 2(;-r. 
 
 22(» 
 
 2< 1 ■ 1 
 
 2!") -5 
 
 21 (' 
 
 •).> ';> 
 
 2S'7 
 
 ;io-o 
 
 W-7 
 
 •i2r. 
 
 ;!;••') 
 
 WO 
 
 •llM) 
 
 11 1 
 
 ;'.(;•".» 
 
 .11-8 
 
 ;5;5 T. 
 
 ;!7-o 
 
 :?t)-2 
 
 ;)2-() 
 
 2 1 •'.» 
 
 2'J'S 
 
 20-5 
 
 20 m; 
 
 17-0 
 
 2S'0 
 
 ;n •(! 
 
 22-0 
 
 --- ^--0 
 
 I I 
 
 24-() 
 
 IS.') IG-f) 
 
 s -o 
 
 27 '0 
 27' I 
 
 2;' "2 
 21 -8 
 ;',0'S 
 
 1 1 ■;• 
 l.vc. 
 ii'i 
 .')7'r> 
 10 • I 
 18-0 
 7h) 
 
 7-0 
 
 fSiu'iiilii's ' hfliiw zi'i'ii 
 
 From this (able it appears that eight below /ero is 
 the iiiiniinuni, on one side ; on Ihe other, so far as ob- 
 served, lower tenipeiature.s coinnionly oceur every year. 
 
\vi:atiii:i; in I8i;i, 
 
 4(1.: 
 
 I K PAST 
 
 Taklk No. 10. 
 
 ISlIO. 
 
 ISM". 
 
 I),-. 
 
 I)«'.14. 
 
 22 
 
 27'(i 
 
 IDS 
 
 27 t 
 
 22i» 
 
 2;' '2 
 
 21 (' 
 
 21 \S 
 
 ;5()-(i 
 
 ;',0'S 
 
 ;!!! •;") 
 
 1 1 It 
 
 HI 
 
 tr.-o 
 
 \V.>, •;'. 
 
 ii't 
 
 32-0 
 
 'm:> 
 
 20 -r. 
 
 lO'l 
 
 2S'(. 
 
 18-0 
 
 - --'■{) 
 
 7'0 
 
 8 -Cl 
 
 7-0 
 
 jclow zero i.s 
 so far as ob- 
 r every year. 
 
 J 
 
 IIIIIIIIT 
 '"rliriiaiy 
 
 M 
 
 nvii 
 
 M.iy 
 .Iiiiii' 
 .Inly 
 
 All!;-lls( 
 
 Sf|ltclllll('|' 
 
 (•.•(i)li,.|- 
 
 N'ovciiilici' 
 Dcii-'iulicr 
 
 Mean , 
 
 Aixtrrr.i) Mka.v 'I'k 
 1M<» TO iMiJ. 
 
 Mi'i:i{ATI'i{K I'HoM 
 
 ►*" ;i 
 
 .•*<.|- 
 
 1 1 -s 
 
 I I 'S 
 
 r.n-i 
 r.;i-i 
 r.i 7 
 
 •llCiJ 
 
 ;3ii-7 
 
 ■18-2 
 
 H r 
 
 ;!s-i 
 •ir.-n 
 
 r.st 
 ori 
 (;o'0 
 
 18 -S 
 
 ■ll-o 
 
 ■18 11 
 
 '■>< '.'i 
 1 1 •.-. 
 
 i7'(; 
 r. I •;; 
 
 Ol)-',! 
 
 ;V.t7 
 
 r.r. -.s 
 •t7-i 
 •12 -s 
 
 48-(; 
 
 UKMARK.S O'S T}!!: VFAl 
 
 ;;s-(; 
 
 12 I 
 
 17;! 
 
 r.;!-i 
 
 r.s-7 
 
 oi;', 
 
 0(1 ■;{ 
 
 fiij-O 
 
 l!»f 
 
 12 1 
 
 ;)!V2 
 
 ■18 -8 
 
 crc 
 
 Ji i« cj 
 
 ;!s-(; 
 
 12 1 
 171 
 
 r.s -0 
 
 01-1 
 
 0i)'2 
 
 r.oi 
 ■iif.') 
 
 12-2 
 
 ;5i»'2 i 
 •187 
 
 '"S- 
 
 -2 '2 
 
 1-s 
 
 ■I (»•!• 
 
 f l-s 
 
 11 
 1(1 
 1-2 
 1(1 
 
 I ()■(; 
 
 (CD 
 ]-.'5 
 
 -0-0 
 
 Tlie temperatiuv l'„r i],,. yar Isci was ()•<; ,hMr. i 
 
 the avi'i'agc of tl)(> past 55 Vfur,- 
 oxct'pt Aj.iil, .May, aii-1 O.t. .!,...• ; April 
 
 llCIIl!. 
 
 cwi'i' than 
 
 I'oiilrr 111 r\r]\ liKHitlj 
 
 tl 
 
 U( average, and Mav I.s ,1, 
 
 I' 
 Marnier. 
 
 \\a~ 
 
 oo 
 
 z (leg. colder tiian 
 
 Tl 
 
 ic amount n\' raii 
 
 1 was s- 1 
 
 in. lielnw the a\era' 
 
 (in 
 
 ii^l 
 
m^ 
 
 AI'I'KMJlX. 
 
 '2V VL'iUs, iK'ing less ill all uiuiitlis cxooiil Jauiuirv, Ft'ltiiiaiy, 
 April, aikl NovenibcT. Tlinv was also a much k-ss miml)L'r dl' 
 Wft clays. 
 
 The lahle.s t'Xjdaiu tlu'iiiselvi*;% 
 
 E. J. Lowe. 
 
 OliSKIlVAIOltY, 
 
 lliijhjiehl House, Jan. '1. 
 
 Ill Canada the sciisuii was iiiiUHually dry. In New- 
 Ibuiidlaiid and Laltiadur, nniisiially Ibggy and cold. A 
 great deal of ice came down IVoni tlie northern regions 
 — tar more than usual. The Gult Stream appears to 
 liave come i'urther iKjrtli, as drift-Meed and tlying-tish 
 were seen in warm water, nearer to Cape liace than 
 usual. 
 
 *'.' 
 
 - ■♦'■ : * 
 
 To this comparison of weather on shore may he 
 added the temperatures of water in the Atlantic in 
 18G4, copied from the log of the ' Persia,' by the kind 
 permission of her captain. 
 
 If any one cares enough about the subject, the table 
 may be made into a diagram, by treating vertical lines 
 in a sheet of section ])aper as meridians in a map, and 
 lunizontal lines as the scale of a thermometei'. 
 
 The result is horizontal, or nearly lioriznntal, lines of 
 
ary, Fubiuary, 
 less iiuiubi'i' (if 
 
 E. J. Lowe. 
 
 i. Ill New- 
 nd cold. A 
 liurii regions 
 
 appears to 
 1 flyiiig-tisli 
 
 liacu than 
 
 \\'i:ATfri;i; [\ 18(11. 
 
 407 
 
 t-porntn.,.np,,,^,,,,,,^.,^,^.^ nt on. partin.lar r.- 
 
 ^^-"^ -Hi ns„.g .,,,,. ,,,,,,^.,,,.^^,^^^^^^^^^ 
 
 ^-Vi..K. Arctic Current..^ 
 
 lliocWtcsonoppositccoa.tsdcpcn.l,.ntl... ,...,,,.;.. 
 of these two, and tli.'v ar.' a 
 
 str 
 
 earn M-ith a suflieient d 
 
 as easily slmnted 
 
 as a jiiill- 
 
 ini. 
 
 I hel 
 
 bonlder-el 
 honlder-eli 
 
 iove tliat the 'gincial period 
 
 •y is lb 
 
 now exists, that 
 
 rinuig m the Allaiit 
 
 • ', and 
 
 ^y ^vas foriiK'il clsf.wli 
 
 111 
 
 currents, like the cold Atl; 
 washes the Labrador. T 
 
 •■•■'' in (.1,1 jn.eti 
 
 '"lie stivam whicl 
 
 I How 
 
 " ■'^ee it \/a,> 
 
 THK Kxn OF Tirr 
 
 :)re may be 
 Atlantic in 
 jy the kind 
 
 t, the table 
 rtical lines 
 a map, and 
 
 •^ TRA>rP. 
 
 tal, lines ot 
 
No. ir.— TAIiI.E OF DISTANCES 
 
 Tlic followiiii.- TA15LK ..I' 1)ISTAN(1^:S mnv liavc soiiio 
 
 o ■ 
 
 interest. 
 
 .»•.* 
 
 .lul 
 
 y 
 
 n 
 
 
 
 1!) 
 
 
 20, 
 
 21 
 
 
 22, 
 
 23 
 
 
 
 25 
 
 
 
 31 
 
 An- 1 
 
 ,2 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 13 
 
 
 10, 
 
 20 
 
 52 (lavs 
 
 24 
 
 at sea. 
 
 Sept. 
 
 ?> 
 
 Oct. 
 
 2!) 
 31 
 
 } 
 
 22 
 2G 
 
 28 
 
 !- ' Ax 
 
 •r 
 
 liivorpnol t(j Cape Rare } . „ 
 
 , ,,',.,. r'Lur<ii.; 
 
 ,, to llalila\ ) 
 
 To "VVindMiv and liack, rail 
 
 To Sy.lH..y 1 
 
 T.. St. J.-lni'sj '^ "'^ 
 
 'I'll Laliraditr 
 
 The Laljvadtii', up 
 
 do down 
 
 Lansiddii]) 
 
 IVllcisle 
 
 St. .John's 
 
 To Colini.. and back 
 
 At Cdlini't, about 
 
 At St. Jolm's, aliout 
 
 To Halifax, about 
 
 To St. John, N.13. 
 Fredericton and 
 St. John to Portland 
 To ]\Iontival . 
 
 \ 
 
 Hiite Mountains, about 
 
 In Canada, al)out 
 Niai^ara to Bull'alo 
 Eullalo to Chica_L,fo 
 Cliica^Lfo to St. Louis , 
 'it. Louis to Lduisvilh 
 
 Miles. 
 
 Miirs. 
 
 1 ,S Ti ( I 
 
 
 ()(jO 
 
 2,510 
 
 80 
 
 2,5!)0 
 
 330 
 
 2,!)20 
 
 540 
 
 3,4 GO 
 
 480 
 
 3,1)40 
 
 180 
 
 4,120 
 
 180 
 
 4,300 
 
 GO 
 
 4,3 GO 
 
 GO 
 
 4,420 
 
 480 
 
 4,!) 00 
 
 120 
 
 5,020 
 
 20 
 
 5,040 
 
 30 
 
 5,070 
 
 870 
 
 278 
 200 
 2G0 
 2!)4 
 
 50 
 1100 
 
 24 
 542 
 288 
 342 
 
 5,940 
 
 G,2]8 
 G,41S 
 G,G78 
 G,972 
 7,022 
 8,122 
 8,14G 
 8,GS8 
 8,9 7 G 
 9.318 
 
T\l;l,K or- KtSTANcK 
 
 |(>'.> 
 
 ES 
 
 V have sou in 
 
 Miles. 
 
 Mil.'s. 
 
 1 iS ,') ( ) 
 
 
 1 f ' » / ^ ' 
 
 ooo 
 
 2,510 
 
 80 
 
 2,5!)0 
 
 330 
 
 2,!) 20 
 
 540 
 
 3,400 
 
 480 
 
 3,040 
 
 180 
 
 4,120 
 
 180 
 
 4,300 
 
 00 
 
 4,300 
 
 OO 
 
 4,420 
 
 480 
 
 4,!) 00 
 
 120 
 
 5,020 
 
 20 
 
 5,040 
 
 30 
 
 5,070 
 
 8 70 
 
 5,940 
 
 278 
 
 0,218 
 
 200 
 
 0,418 
 
 200- 
 
 0,078 
 
 2!)4 
 
 0,072 
 
 50 
 
 7,022 
 
 1100 
 
 8,122 
 
 24 
 
 8,140 
 
 542 
 
 8,0^8 
 
 288 
 
 8,070 
 
 342 
 
 0,318 
 
 (h 
 
 >i)y 
 
 » 
 
 •>v 
 
 Tu ( 
 To ( 
 
 M 
 
 iii'N 
 
 1 
 
 15 T(. III,! 
 
 iivi- City aiiil l.aik 
 iiicimmti li\ rivt-r 
 
 M 
 
 III' 
 
 ■t 
 
 laiiajiii] 
 To La\ravftfr 
 
 is 
 
 ii-aii City 
 
 T(. Mid 
 17 j Tu ("hi(>a<,'(i 
 21 I T.. rittshiir- 
 
 At Pittsh,,,-, 
 24 ! To flanisliiiri 
 
 At llanishiii'"- 
 
 a I unit 
 
 2^ I To Biiltiinon' 
 T(i Wasliiii.rtoii 
 
 At A\'as]iiiij^rt 
 
 fill 
 
 •il I T(i UaltiiiKire 
 
 Tu I'liiludclphia 
 To Xc'w York 
 ' At New Ynvk 
 4 , To Boston, about 
 At Boston, al.out 
 K' ' To Albany 
 1 4 To Xc.\v Vork . 
 I At Catskill, about 
 
 ■2(; ^ I ''^ l.iV('ri)ool 
 
 The distance travelled 
 
 25o 
 15(1 
 
 1 
 !H 
 5(t 
 108 
 20 
 
 2i:» 
 
 4(1 
 N2 
 10 
 5(» 
 4(» 
 08 
 00 
 
 20 
 230 
 
 50 
 20() 
 144 
 
 50 
 
 3o()o 
 
 0,508 
 !».7I8 
 0,830 
 0,804 
 !»,085 
 lo,o;jr) 
 lO,r,o;i 
 
 10,:, 2 3 
 li',772 
 l<',M2 
 10, SO I 
 I 0,034 
 10,!)84 
 I l,(t24 
 I 1,122 
 11,212 
 I 1,232 
 1 1,402 
 I 1 ,5 1 2 
 I 1.712 
 1 l,s50 
 I 1,000 
 
 14,!)00 
 
 was more thaii U.,^0() mil 
 
 U2 days at a eost of £180. Nvhiel 
 l>.3tween London aiid Livorpool, aid sn„d, 
 
 <'S ill 
 
 1 '^Uiii iiK'liidcs the fill 
 
 purchase 
 
 cs 
 
 ■^ K 
 
• • . t 
 
 . • ! 
 
 No. III. — Tkmi'Kkatl'KE ui" the Watkh, takoii even Four H. 
 
 of tile Tl'llljKM'iltuif. 
 
 New V..rk, 
 April I). 
 
 Ajpiil •.'(>. 
 
 Air, S4°. 
 New Yiirk, 
 All;:. II. 
 
 X.nv York, 
 
 An.' -24 
 
 !•>' 4:<' 
 44 44 4:: 4-_' 
 
 OO" 24' 
 
 41 11 4(t 41 41 41 4-2 41 4il 
 
 70" :{.■)■ 
 ^^11 70 7."i 74 74 70f>l (',4 
 
 OS" '24 
 7S 7'J 74 7'.' .'iS I'll) fiC, rtS fiS 
 
 tl.V -Jit' 
 40 41 40 .".0 .'i-.'.'i'J 
 
 0:!° 07 • 
 
 M :,-2 r,] ,-,() -.4 
 
 (•).!" tiO' 
 111 t'iO 7i> 70 t)ti (1(5 
 
 C>r 07' 
 till 70 (!t5 07 07 04 
 
 I'aHsctl n jii( >f ii'f. I 
 
 t'l(Hii!\. 
 
 hut. 4:!° 40' 
 
 .joM.'>' ti 
 
 .'.,s" o;j' 
 
 .OO 4-J 41» 40 Its 
 i4:.t5.^9 02ri7.'irt 
 
 .'■i7" 10' 
 O'J 06 7 1 70 07 70 
 
 .0.-/ 40' 
 
 04 04 01 O'J 0] 57 
 Dense Fi)''. 
 
 4'J4ii4l.i:t:!lt44 44 U\ 
 
 I 
 M -is i 
 
 tlO 58 .'i7 .'iii 0-1 .VI ".-J 
 
 Lat. 4'J' jO' 
 
 50' 10' 4) 
 
 70 04 00 56 60 04 70 '^^'''M^ 
 
 Dt'iise Fog. j 
 
 
 49° 2;r 
 
 4'r^ 
 
 'iO .-.0 50 5;J 50 50 .'14 :a >n 
 Fug. 
 
 w 
 
takoii every F..ur Hm,, ,itli the Loiioituile 
 
 of the Teiiii.eraturJjVuiii tlie Log of the ' I'ersia,' 18G4. 
 
 at iiuoii ; to .sliuu tlie ApiToxinuitu Positiou 
 
 Sfll (I )lifcr (if jc- 
 
 Clomly. 
 
 1 Lat. 4:!' 40' 
 60' 45' 
 
 4rt ;{8 
 
 II .)(i 
 
 U 
 
 42 4ii4i;i;i:i0 44 44 p;:,i;4j,i 
 
 M 2.S' 
 
 '/(> 50,54 ,■)() :•{) 
 37° O.V 
 
 fio r,s :,7 ,-,t; s-.' 50 :ii; ;■: m y,i .'.o r.3 5:j r,4 50 
 
 Lat. 42' jn- 
 
 50' 10' 
 
 ao 5,s 
 
 50 50 
 29° 58' 
 
 38" l;r 
 
 2,V 17' 
 50 52 5150 
 
 22' 22' 
 
 52 52 
 
 50 50 51 51 
 
 14' 01 
 
 52 5;j 51 4ii 
 
 13" ly 
 52 53 53 40 45 
 
 ly04, 
 Manlj •.' 
 
 31° :iO' 
 
 7 -n J 70 04 60 56 60 04 70.;>.N.w|o«| 00 04 05 00 58 | 0., 0.. ,1,. ,;o 00 00 \ 02 ii 
 Dense Fog. 
 
 1 57 
 
 40° 2:i' 
 
 4L' 
 
 ■-0 50 50 53 50 50 54 :a 61 iftiJO 
 
 36' IS' 
 
 60 60 60 02 00 
 
 4!' 40 40 45 
 
 '-'"11 ANK'll.t J 
 
 CO 61 60 02 02 60 1 00 00 61 Oy 5S 
 
 2S^ .•).•{■ 
 
 ( 20' 02' iriy 
 
 B3 05 64 02 58 63| 0261 040157 04, 62 00 5^02 02 62 loi 62 0.04 02 01 
 
 .s«'iit. a 
 60 5y 
 
> • 
 
 >? 
 
 . *l 
 
IN 1) K\. 
 
 Aim I mill at ( 'liiciiKo, I'M ■..'"i i nmisi', m' ; c'ltiM^ nrclii' rliiii.itc, ii.". ; 
 
 Ari'iilclil { li;iil\\ ,|\ ) al Ulilllllnnil, '."'7 I HII|i1 n^'l'l| lil.llks Iclt liN.'.Ti 
 
 Ail.'iiiis ( Mount ), hih' i.|' IIic Wliili- .Mniiii | Alt;.vll, hi lUr rci'ullcil lij lli;;lil,iiii| w.'iin ii 
 
 liiilis, '.'ID j ill ('iiiiiicla, '.M I 
 
 Ailaiiis ( Ml iiiiit ), iii'.'h riiiciiiii.it i, :iiiT \ ' Arirl ' sliiiiiuf, li.ul iniiclitiiiii nf, ;,■.', ,i3 
 
 Ailiiiiinl.ili MniiiiiMiiis, •.".'I'l, -J'.".!, :\\i:, \\ iM,\ (.Viiifririiii) in ilir inid, :::,:, 
 
 Ailiniial 111' wimmI mIi un ( '.inailiin iivrn. ; .\l l.int.i, inws almiit tall nl, .'I_"J 
 
 'JIS i .\l l.int if, s|iiil.s ill Unit lui'ali wliiir ii'i' lia^ 
 
 • At'iira ' nil liiiinrw.iiij \ii\aj;i', ,'t.'i 
 Ariir.iii liaili', .isl 
 Al'iiran 'I'lavrl (l.ili' Hooks uf), mi lial.itH 
 o|' ii,'ili\t'>(, .';sii 
 
 A>{lissi/. nil views ol' lliost ailvaili'iil .■ii'linol 
 
 dI' ),'Iai'iali,sts, 'Jl 'J.'i 
 Alaliaiii.i, tiisi liiiiliiiaiit ami n-rw ul", ."..'i 
 .*lli';^liany Moiintuiis, iin^tli ol' tlir I'liaiii 
 
 ami lii;^'lii'st |iiiiiit.s, (i 
 Aiiii'iii a, [ilivsiral (4cii>.'raiiliy nl', <'< l'.» ; 
 
 .siiliiiiiT^;i'i|, tisliiiL; nl' till' tlii'iiiv, ,'> I J ; 
 
 lllllst liavr iii'i'll llnWril nViT liy Iirclif 
 
 ciiiirnl, ;u I 
 
 Allli'lii'MIIS ilii|irnvii| hy llir i|i,sri|i|inr of 
 
 liri'll si'i'li, .'1 
 
 Allaiilii' cna.-il of N Vnniira, tl 
 'Alliilitii' Moiillily .M.i-a/,iin'' fur jSdl, 
 (|iliilri| I'nr ii|>ininii n| Agassi/ nii ijlaiiiT 
 
 ai'tinii ill Ann lira, 
 
 M 
 
 Atnin.-<|ilir|-ii' rirrillalinli, tti 
 
 if Kill 
 
 III 
 
 I'UV raves, 
 
 III 
 
 e iiriiiv, 'jti:i 
 
 jn| 
 
 slan 
 
 Anieiieaii i'irUle, a siiiall i 
 
 raiseil lieaili, llHl 
 Aiiiiiliil>iniis eli.'ir.arli'i' nf inlialiitaiils nT Kail (Celt ie) in Caiiaila, 'Jl I ; in IMainnmili 
 
 Aiik (h'leat) lime Iniinil 'A I'link Isla 
 II. "i 
 
 .\lllnra nliseiveil ill I ,.ll il'ulnr, IM 
 Axi.H, .Sll|i|insei| eli.ail^;!' Ill eaitli'.J, 'J't 
 
 Azoie links III I lie Noli li o| St I. aw re 
 I'.i ; n.ilnie nf, 'Jo 
 
 Hai KWniihsMIN liollllil for linim', '.'lli 
 llaenii eliMlnliif, Kriillleky, .'1 I'l 
 
 Haenii em in;,' at ( 'liie;ii,'o, l'h:; 
 
 Newl'iiiinillaiiil, r.':t 
 
 ( 'a\e 
 
 Aiiisteiilain, ('liiea;^o in its watei si reels ; Hailaiityiie's ' Mvery day Life ill t lie Wnnils 
 
 reseinliles, •_', , 
 Ailelior lee, SI 
 Alnlersoli (L'a|it.) lias never seen fl stnlie 
 
 1)11 a lier^', 1 1 1 
 Amlrnseii;,'^;in Uiver, t'.'s 
 
 Alielniils (|ioeket), I'.M, lO*? 
 Aii;;ln-Sa>;on Keaiity in Canailn, '_'Ki 
 Aninials nf Keiilinkv 
 
 if N. America ' iimiUd, His ITii 
 
 l!altiniii|i 
 
 iiv...leis Hi 
 
 eaves. 
 
 ;(1'.». 
 
 Hanks nil N. .\lneiiiMli slmle in eoUstaiit 
 
 nin\ eiiielit , 7 
 Ualliaeles at tiiceli'.s I'nml, i',\ ; I.uliiailor 
 
 eoast , 7'i 
 namineler falliliK, a severe slnpiii, 1 1.", 
 liana, Mi,L,'laiiiler frniii, in ('ape Mreion, 
 
 ■I'.i 
 
 Antenna' (I"1ik) nf ea\e eriekets, :ii'.» 
 
 Arelia'oln;,'y nf I leiiniark uinl Swiizeilni.il li.isins nf Anieriean eentral rei,'inii, 10 
 
 illiistrateil Itv Laliiaijor, Uiil 
 
 Areliipelagd, Ni'W IJruiiswiek (iiiec one, ^ ii.isnui 
 
 iJasket, price of an Iiiilian, lii' 
 
 17:t 
 
 Arcliitectiire in T.,nl)rai|or, lti4, IO;'i 
 Arctic ice, ohi, 75 
 Arctic current, rcasnns wliy nn nnniont 
 
 current lloweil over liritisli Islainl.i, 4 ; 
 
 laiii^iia^c snii 
 
 le.wliat resrmliles 
 
 Imliaii laii^'iia^;!' nf New Mninswick, lii:! 
 I^ateaiix, lisliiii;,' settlement, 7'.' 
 Halli in ininialnie rapiils at Niagara, S'l.T 
 Uats nf Kentucky eaves, ;;4'.i ; Imlies fnlllid 
 
 in caves nf Kcntinkv. .".H 
 
 spoor of, 84 ; iiilliionce of, 8,'i ; its i Bnttlc lliirlioiir, I.alnailnr, tis, Ki.'i 
 
414 
 
 INDKX. 
 
 ISmII Ic of life ill (';illMi|;i, '_'I7 
 li:niiii;4Mrli'ii mi ;i ln'il of Arctic ^lii-lls u 
 
 SiMiWiliili, 4 
 H;iy ici'. LMliiinlor, 71; lioiijilcvs Minniit. 
 
 I'l." ; wliarrnt Sviliicv licstrdvcil liv, l.'j 
 
 ilciictuii, jirolialily fr^ui I.mIuimI.ii' fiii.l 
 
 Ncwl 
 
 <>iliMll;ili>l 
 
 ll). 
 
 It'll ; (l.aiirciitiaij 
 
 ill I'cds at Ottawa, •Jll ; in ciniiitr.v 
 iMtwciii 'J'olcdii aiKJ ('liica''(i, i 
 
 'I' Kaiiliaki' 
 
 c, 2;i| 
 
 •J.'J; on 
 want ol', 
 
 \U:u 
 
 ll-sfoM 
 
 ami slii'ils 
 
 at llciilcv liar- 
 
 it St. l.nllis 
 
 hour, Kit 
 
 Oiiici and St. Lawn 
 
 1, •'il'i ; on watcislicil oi 
 
 '.'I 
 
 UcaNiT, a taiiic one, its jialiits, l(M 
 
 JJcavci-housi's in Xcwloiin 
 
 I ml l:;7-l.'ir» ; 
 
 I5ca\i'r root, tlic root of tlic vcHo\v lilv, 
 
 l:;s. 14(1 
 Heavers ami their s. tf iiMiieiits, ].'t7-l.'!'.' ; linaklast on lioard tli 
 
 ! Bulllijer terraces mar West I' 
 aniiiii.u White Mountains, -Jl 1 
 
 ' lireail hasket of the Wdllii,' -.".li 
 Mreakers oil Newfoiimllaiiil, ll.'i 
 
 l'.i7 
 
 Aril 
 
 ii; 
 
 nioVeliients of heave: 
 
 !:;■.! 
 
 to 
 
 Mears, twii tame ones, their haltits, liU : 
 
 IJreaUuater (I'lyiiioiith), bea\ei' 
 
 k 
 
 taiii> 
 
 ]ia]ieil liKe, 
 
 'AS 
 
 it at I'lil 
 
 ;i;i 
 
 houses ill Wliite Moiiii- ; IJreeiian (Ned), a Newfoui 
 ; 1-JS; llsli with him. l:;l 
 
 idlaiid ilrncr, 
 
 l>e;_';;ar, the only o||e seen in (' 
 
 da 
 
 lie 
 
 (Mm') at I'oiilin.iiucl, 1 1'. 
 
 IJretoii (Cajie), \e;,'i'tation of, rpsemliles 
 that of Scandinavia, 47; fi-.lieiies and 
 
 l{ellei>le l|o||| llellleV llallponr, IH' 
 
 mines workiMJ li\ Vaiikc 
 
 4.S 
 
 IJelleisle (Straits of), currents in, I ]ll ; IJrid-c lietweell houses at Tolllinj,'net and 
 
 tcrraci' 
 
 red elilf il 
 
 1, one rest 
 
 iiililin 
 
 sliori 
 
 ania;;i'il 
 
 hv liiiters, 114 ; l)i;j 
 
 ;est 
 
 IMl 
 
 in world, "Ju'ii 
 
 l.oiii'iml, (duster of hills in 
 eliililill.L', iss 
 
 (West). .L'ravid terraces al, llC 
 
 L'.S. JJrid.L 
 
 I's, rotten ones on roail to Whit. 
 
 .Moiintaii 
 
 IS, -JO. 
 
 Iletl 
 
 |{ctiila nana in Labrador, !d 
 
 licttiii.i: at Louisville, maiia;,o'd hv Irish- I'.i ilain(Littl,.), Wilmin.uton, \\ li\ 
 
 I5ii^' llarhoiir, |ilcnly of lisli in, ori;.'ino| 
 saxiiiL:, l-J:i 
 
 man, ::i'0 
 
 IJills of fare at li .ana|iolis, 
 
 Chica.Lro, :w\ 
 liills stuck on ro(d<s, '."Jo 
 
 at lirockvil 
 
 ickles found at, I 
 
 ') ; I'oekit 
 
 sliell.^ and houldei 
 
 d, 
 
 !.'!•_' ; polislie. 
 
 rock of ^;ra\ i|nartz, U'.'i7 ; ice marks and 
 tor at, •.'4-J ■ 
 
 liir.di liar' camx', lt'i7 
 
 Milch trees used hy liea\-ers incoiistnicting Hriiee takes shi|i over a larbert, ;!04 
 
 their dams, l.'is 
 
 lirilil 
 
 nirds that niav he shot at WilmiiiL'toii, •J','.'! house at Ghii House 
 
 1, I'linnin;,' of one kcjit. at a iiuhli 
 
 .'i;t 
 
 Hitteiii, a yoiin;,' one cau^rht, M.f 
 
 Mlack l)ome, N. (';indinii, h'Muht of, (> 
 
 lilai k Hies (Siiii)iUtiin) ui .>'i\vfound'"nil, liiitlalo, ioid<s 
 
 Urvaiit's I'oiid, trrraee of heaeli stones al , 
 
 I '.'7 
 
 and tir 
 
 ifl, L'l;!!, -201 : dan 
 
 I {1,1 
 
 Hiitlal 
 
 at. Its etfeets in case of a war, 
 ]ii(diire .irallery, and jday at, -JiVj, '. 
 
 marks at, I'tio 
 iiiu'cniiilv aiiout IJiitlalo-rohe, use of, '.".i.'] 
 
 |{las|dli'ni.\', 1M1\ elti 
 
 American, '2~'> 
 I'.loek of ice, hrcakin.n uji, 
 Ulockade luniicrson hoaril steaniiM, 17S IJiionavis 
 
 li 
 
 lillll (water), existeliee of (Pile helieved in 
 iv the Celt.- 
 
 I!l 
 
 ocKS o 
 sea level, 1 
 
 Moiiktoii, 1.' 
 
 •-".I 
 
 a, .'ill; lij,ditnin^; and rain at, i" 
 
 f ;,'ianit.n at Laiis-a louji above IJnrbrid^ie's (ielieral) exiieditioii, troii 
 
 of uranite in mud at 
 
 news|ia|(er. 
 
 (f ^^niiistoiieand ^;raiiite liuridwiiiL; cHei t of water at Niagara, 
 
 near I'rederictuii, Ki'i; (i>(dislie(|)at I'dit IJiish ti.uhtinn in America, ;;ati 
 
 land, IS.i 
 
 Hilshw 
 
 lac 
 
 iers destidvini,' railroads an 
 
 liliih 
 
 if seals, I- 
 
 shotitiliLC lie;^roes, ','>.','.> 
 business (followiii,!,' a), ditference in old 
 and new countries ,",04 
 
 Hliill (('ajie), cod weiiic at work, luj 
 
 l?( lie instruments of I\si|uiiiiaii\, In.') 
 
 Hones on kitidiell niiddeiis, lll.'i 
 
 Mostoii, i'i\al iiroccssioiis at, .■;;'-' 
 
 Hottomless ])it, Kentucky, .■:4.'i 
 
 IJonldcr at susi>eiisioii bridge, Niaj^ara, frozen al (^indiee, 'J.'i!! 
 
 Butidiers (pi^;) at (. hi(api, •_'S^•J^.■! 
 C.v.Mr.it.A jiicture (111 ice when ri\('r was 
 
 it Luna island 
 
 Cani]> manners outshin 
 
 IJoulders near the ''rent Aiiicricaii Lakes,! '_'o:{ ; of NeL;ro re'diiieiit 
 
 lUiitrv iiiaiinei> 
 
 IS; their storv, in; of old t'anadian Canada, season of IsiVi verv hot. drv, and 
 
 (iziue 1 
 iihout. 
 
 •ock, verv 
 
 eonsincuons 
 
 il : liuht 
 
 (dear : once at the bottom of a ^'iilf like 
 
 (fZraiiite) oil shore of Hay of i the lialtic, I'lis 
 
 Kiiiidy, 4"i; in New I'oundland, ^zreat I Canadian ' azoic ' rock, fra.muent of, very 
 
 jiuiiibei> 
 
 at Svdnev, 
 
 li\ an engineer in bav ice. I.'';{: at I-'n 
 
 eoiis]ii<'iious iimoiif^st more receul rocks 
 •Jl ; c( 'oiiists, jieciiliarities of, 'Jl'-'; tn- 
 
INDEX. 
 
 41i 
 
 ; (Limrcntiiin 
 ; ill cinuitiy 
 
 I'M'xn, '>--l; on 
 •J'.i-J ; want of, 
 
 1 wati'isliiil of 
 
 ',•1 
 
 ■it Paris, w: : 
 
 iidlaii'l liriMM', 
 
 dl', rosiiiiMrs 
 ; lislu'!i''S aiiil 
 ■s, 4s 
 
 rouliii.i;ni't aini 
 s, in ; tii^-'.i^i'st 
 
 mail tu Whit.' 
 
 lisli in, (Hi.Ljiii "I 
 
 II, why Ml callril, 
 
 at, 1.') ; '•<M'!>if 
 
 'j;cj ; )i(ili-.lH'il 
 
 ; ice marks aiiil 
 
 iiic lirlii'vcil in 
 
 iiid vain at, I'' 
 iciliticii, liiiMi 
 
 ll'iicnrc in I'M 
 Jsl-'JS:i 
 ,iirli riviT was 
 
 i.Uiiifnt "I", vcvy 
 Ml' nccul nifks, 
 its (if, -J f.' ; It !■- 
 
 litory, cnltivati-'il siren's, 2 •_'■"> ; ri 
 Icssniis tlii'V tcac'li ^.'fiilDuists, •_':'..") 
 C.'iMiiilialisni, stiiiy (if a ni'Liru-nnrsc, 
 
 I'liili, ternciM almiL; 11 
 
 st, .•it ; ol. 
 
 siTvatiirv is all'ii'ti'il 1)\- lirat, ."I 
 
 rs, Cliiistiaiiia l'',i'i:i|, N'oiway, 
 uiitry in N. iiiiinswifk 
 
 iivi- anil 
 
 irr.l 1.1, 
 
 L'linii' 
 
 iruiidiiU'tor (^'L'(il(i.i,'ical), Nia.L.'ara I'alls 
 
 Caimi', a hinli haik inii', li'i!; an Iinliaii iiil 
 
 1,'iiTs iiavi;,'atiiin cit'oin', 1(17 
 Cape liliiir, l.alnailiir, 7 < 
 
 Cajif Cliaili's, I.aliiaiiii , OS Clniiclics aii'l j,'rav('yaiils, (•inintiy with 
 Cajic (Ifar passnl, :i:{ mit cM, 
 
 Cajii' Kcar, fxtiact ri<Mi arlirlo im (Icfciii't's Cliuiclivanl at (iri'i'iis rmnl ('iirrnachiil 
 
 if, 
 (Japi' Uaci', cliniati' cuiniiari'il with tliat ul ( 
 
 m liv tlu' si'M, i'i() 
 
 si (if, 1 1.1(1 
 
 I'MI', CI 
 
 La Kiiclic-Uc, it.'i 
 
 ('inriiiiiati, tsitnalinn of, .'iiV 
 
 (Jaiiliiis, lishiiit,' t'urv Sil, males .'uvl females City in Mamninth Cave, .'t.'i4 
 
 in sc 
 
 larat 
 
 e sliciHls, 
 
 ( IVll W 
 
 av. eiinies tlie uMsiirin^r "f, •'iSD 
 
 Captain taken by 'lie 'Alaliaii 
 
 li 
 
 .sorrows, .'(.■( ; 
 
 skill ami attention 
 
 ( 'i\ ilisati. 
 ;i7;t 
 
 1' 
 
 a mere vainisli in l-'raiiec 
 
 in 
 
 a ''a 
 
 llant one who sa\ cl a sliip in Clay (Mniint), one of Wliite Monntain 
 
 tlie Cnif stream, l.">:{ 
 Carpenters at (.^neliee, every man 
 ainl cliilil seem to be, •_'!'.• 
 
 Carl is 
 laiji 
 Caiiilii 
 
 , eii^'ine lireaks dnwii at, ;il.' 
 ml at, .';iii 
 
 ia(N 
 
 •hai 
 
 lues on, I 
 
 Clay near St. Ixmis, pei'iili.irities of, .■;!■.' 
 Clav-beils above weathi-n^.l limestone, 
 
 Cleri,'ym.n (Seolch) ami Scottish JuiIl,'!' 
 at a count r\ inn, -.'iis 
 
 Carrion, taint of, ilri\es ileer from .i,'roiiml, Clilf in NewtontnllMnil, steamer 
 
 onslv iie.ir. 
 
 ;• ; at Ni, 
 
 n-j 
 
 Carter Uiil;:e, White Monntains, L'll 
 
 Carvel's 'I'lavels in 17ti('>,' 7, S ; ipiofeil, Clills (faiita.^tie), at l.aiis a lotip 
 
 lu'aia, .•icli'ili of 
 
 water ainI ice on. 
 
 !l 
 
 Catalina, ice oxteiiileil 140 miles from 
 
 poast, -'lO I of Lahr.Hlor, <i 
 
 'Cats ileliirht,' a Tli-lilaml inoverb, -J^.'j 
 Catskill mountains, :!'.i.'p, snow on, .".','7 
 Cattle oil railway lines, how warni'd oil', | Cloiiils seeiinn;,'ly 
 
 Climate, how alfceteil by ilcpies-jon, !•_' 
 of N. .\meiica, sniijiosed cliaii.u'e of, -js : 
 
 pari 
 
 iciilai's o 
 
 f, 7t 
 
 I'.m; 
 
 Cattle trains on .-ailways, 270 
 Caves ;-i olil Kentucky, .'(44, .'!,'.i4 
 Central re^ziou o( America, two fjreat 
 
 basins, K) 
 Chalk anil chalktlints picked up, S7 
 
 of New Brunswick, 17i'; rc;.^isiered by 
 ve^rctatinn, '.'I I 
 
 IoWer<'d to sea level, .';'.' 
 Coal near Carlisle, .•tlti ; a hint to >pecu- 
 
 itoiN, m; 
 
 basin in fmU of dliii 
 
 d 
 
 Chamjilain (Lake), sea-shells on borders 1 Coast of l.abrad 
 
 Mississippi, ;i-J(i; ineasnres,('a]ie I'.ieton, 
 tine section, 47: mine. Cape liieton, 
 tenilieratuie of, .M) 
 (,'i>al]iils, Cai 
 
 IJictoii, I.'.'.' 
 
 or. ii^iic-'. 
 
 rate of, 
 
 it, •_';!;! 
 
 Chan;,'es (j^ivat) in Canada since Caiita 
 
 111 
 
 Carver's time. 
 
 ")0 
 
 Char hooked in ;i L.ilu.ador l.ike, 01 
 
 Ch.arred stumjis in lields, ■J7.i 
 
 Cliandiere river, ■_":;! 
 
 Cheer (Kn^disli) and Irish yell contrasted, ' in ili>.',L'i 
 
 risiii;,' from C.ipe l!ace In C.ipe llari 
 Son, s ; line (ancient ) t r.ai 
 
 ■f, :;r. 
 
 trai 
 
 if ;in ancient, .'t'.i.' 
 
 Coat, black silk coat with while liniii.:; at 
 
 Louisville, :'.-.'|.i 
 Ci)(d<lcs found bv Irisliiii.in at l!roik\ille 
 
 1.' 
 
 ;tii- 
 
 ChemuiiK formation, Di'Voiii.-in of Ln.ulish 
 
 ;,'e(duj,'ists, •Ji'i.'i 
 Clie(|ues for luj;t,'a<,'e in America, lol 
 
 Cockiiiy (.\mcrican) aiiion^' White Moiin 
 
 tains,' L'us, •j(i;i 
 Cod, disappc.ir.ince of attributed (o ii 
 
 'it') ; on Labr.'idor co.ast, splitt i 
 
 if, '<;'; 
 
 ,dii bo coiiied advanta^'eoiisly in i lished for oil' Labrador when ice breaks 
 
 IJritaiii, I'.fJ 
 Chester (Vale of), country rcscinblin 
 
 up, |-."J ; al 
 
 lUlldi 
 
 d in ."^traits 
 
 i! 
 
 isle in l.'^il.'t, scarce in isiU, \: 
 
 CoiLlishin'' boat ti 
 
 bv steamer, 1 14 
 
 Chica^ro, hij;hest s'c]) to tic wcstwiud, Cod- 
 
 :.'i4 ; echoes of meclinj,' about draft, 
 'J7-') ; situated in the sw.iiiip, 'J7ii ; ni 
 like any oilier jilace in the woil 
 
 potatoes jind jioi herbs lloiir- 
 
 ishin;,' nmon;r, I'l 
 Cod-seine at w.uk, bd 
 Cod and haddocks caiiLrht, 1." 
 
 ar has moved piovisioii trade Cold (;_'reatest) diiiiiit: last six yfiars, JO-.' 
 
 '.'.s.) ; w 
 
 from 1st. Loiii.s to, ;i07 ; bill of fare ,it, ! Coliiiei, 
 
 ;t()0 ; river, i:;t 
 
 1-Js, i:;.( ; fcrrv 
 
4io 
 
 Mti:.\. 
 
 if I ;i I II' liitl.iii, lli;;lil,ilii|«l>. Ilnlii M i.ssissi|i|ii iImt, .'II k". ; liy ;<ii|i|i(i>i('(| sia 
 
 ' » 
 
 « 
 
 .f"' 
 
 » " I 
 
 list, ilr . I- 
 ('dliMir ul' WMliT lit .\i;if,';irii I'lills 
 ('oiiiiiii'iTi' 111' Ni'W rniiiiill.-iiiil, I'J.'i 
 
 Colli 
 
 wiiik, .';i|.;tl'J; caii-rii lij' r.iiii w.iti 
 
 ;iss 
 
 •|ill'iii Itiiy, ii 
 
 >ini>l. 
 
 ill' islMiiil Willi i.'irui' .slmn's, nI 
 ('iiii:4liilin'|-.ili' hdiililiTS, l'!i|ilmL;t'iii, 'Ji'i 
 t'''ii),'i'rj:.'il inii of Ni'u'iiM's, :iT'..' 
 
 Cillllll'l'lil'lll (Mllll'V III'), "J'-'l, 
 
 ( lUivri'sMl iiiii oC \K\ 
 ('linn ii|- v: 
 
 Di'lHi'siiiili III' |i)l) I'l'i'l, I'M'i'i'ts nl", nil New 
 r.iuii'll.ilnl, ill'., '.I ; I'! iiiiii feel, I'lln'ts of, 
 I'M ltiili''li Nmlli Aiiiciii'ii, I'll' , ".t. Id; 
 nl Tun lilt, I'lliTis 111', nil .\iiii'i'ii;i, id, 1 1 ; 
 
 nl '.'niMi nl- :iilli|l I'li'l clliTlsnl', nil .\, 
 
 .\iiiii ir.i, r 
 
 ssi'li^'i'l's ;islinri' 
 111, II (,'11111' mil', ll'l 
 
 ll'.l 1 hllliV l.lri' ill srrilnil \i\ I'li'lllllll 
 
 IJllI, .'l.'i'.t 
 
 hi'vmii.'iii ii 
 
 Ml i;ii 
 
 In, 'JlM 
 
 T ili.stnrl, :'.o:i 
 
 hrvnllsllill', inl'Clll'\ ln'IWCl'U ljl)llis\ ill( 
 
 ('nil 
 
 an 
 
 llmr si'.'iii'lii's fnr tnit ilm's iinl ' ,iinl I ';i\ i' Cil', h'mmiIiIi 
 
 ;il 
 
 liiiil ii'i' luiii'ks iii'.'ii 
 
 Cnri ii 
 
 ill Wllili' Mnlllll lillS, 'Jl,' 
 
 ('nlimi iMXi'il, I.^T 
 
 ('niillimiy, l'.'i|il., ii'i'lirr.i;s si'i'ii liy, 2, :! 
 
 Cnws, ,i|i|iiii';ilus I'lir sliiiiiliiij^ llu'lii niil nf 
 
 till' w.iy nl' I r.iiiis, I'.m; 
 ' ('l'.'l^' .'11111 l.iil,' I'lisi' nl', ,><:( 
 Craw li.'^li, f\('lrs.s, nl' Kriitiirky cnvi's, "111 
 
 C'l'i'r|i(l.'; ill ll.llil wnnil tnl'i'st, KilllUi'kv, 
 
 ,' 1 . 1 ■ 1 
 Cirws of Vi'ssrl> rru^iii'ii liy ii'i', art' savtil, 
 
 I l;i ; nl' t'aiiaili.'iii w I r;ilts. '.'IS 
 
 Oicki'ls nl' Krlltili'k> I'.iVi'S, .'tl'.l 
 Crnssiii.LT .\!iii'iii-a, .slinilrst anil iW'i'st 
 
 \v;iy, ;:(i.'! 
 Cililurl.-; ri'niii wnnils at Nia.L;.'ii':,, 'J."iS 
 ' Ciiilivalril ' tii'i's in N'nv.'i Srn'in, l.'.'> 
 Ciiltivalinii in Nnva Si'ntia, l.iil 
 t iiiTi'iil, r.iti'ainl ilirri'linii nl', 77 
 Cnni'iits ilianu'i'il l>y rvciy ili'ini'ssioii .'iml 
 
 I'li'vatinii nl' l.iml.'s ; in" Straits nl' Iti'llr 
 
 i.sli', llii. Si'i' .\rrtir;inil In' cinii.'iits 
 Cnttiiiirs nil ll.ilil.ix r.'iihv.iy, '.i.'il 
 
 D.VM innstnirti'i! l>y lira\i'r.'<, l.'{S;lio\v 
 lliry I'lnii'i'l ilains. III ; ,it linllaln, liarni 
 it wniilil ilii I 1 an cin'iiiy, 'Jii'.! 
 
 Oanisrls ill nil ii'L,'ii)n.'< abniit i.aki' I'.iii', 
 ami I lirir iiiiswcr til .'iilinircrs, 'Jiiri 
 
 I)iiiia nil i,'lai'i,'il tliiniv, "Jl ; ' (icnlnjry' re 
 
 tViTi'ii in, •:■:■:, 'j-.';!, •.'.•I'J, -sm^, 117''! 
 
 Dance, story nl'an AiniTican rniintiy ilani- 
 
 si'l lit a, .'l.''.'t ; nl" Ni'u'rni's at ritlshin't,', 
 
 .'i7'_' ; in Maniiimtli Cave, 'Xi'l, li.')3 
 IV'inf,'!'!' nl' till' pm.-^ilit nt' srals, 04 
 hannlii' wnnii llnals nnlliini; to thosi' on 
 
 CalKulian rivi'i's, "J IS 
 l)ai'tnionr ainl Cnrnuall, cnuntrv vcsoiii- 
 
 MiiiK, .s;! 
 Davis, a ilt'iT liuntiT anil im.-ulii'i', his la 
 
 iiiily, l.'M ; liiinsrir, i:'..'> 
 Di'.ul Islaiiil, lishin^' Imats clo.sp to iff, 
 
 101 
 Di'.ils iiiaili' at sawmill in Canad.'i, 'J Id 
 Di'rr slinntin^; in Ncwl'niinillinul, 111 ; 
 
 tiai'ks in Ni'W riuiniUanil, i::ii 
 'Delta' stoaiiiiT, \i> : in Svilncy liailmnr 
 
 I'lnni W, Inilii's, l.'i'J 
 Donniark ami Switzcrlaml, anlianlnpy il 
 
 liistvatiHi liv l.aluadoi-, Idii 
 
 |V<5 
 
 Denuilatinn causiil hy iec, O.'' ; itVrrtrii li\ with lai'K<' ."stnnrs, SI 
 
 Diili^iii;,' l'ni'>."ilil ill .\nsliali;i, 10 
 
 Dining,', V.iPKir liasli' in, '..'i'.7 
 
 Diiiminn luanl tin' si ran mr ' I'.iirnjia,' :t'J ; 
 
 a nisli Inr, -jiiT ; n\ railway slatimi, 'J'.id ; 
 
 nil linanl O'lin sli'Mliirr, .':i'i.> 
 Diri'i'tinii nf 111 iiiiiMiiii Ml at I'm tl;nii|, 
 
 IS'i 
 
 Dis.iil\anta;,'('s, sniiii', nf .\Miriiraii rail 
 
 v.iy tia\i'lliii^;, Id.i 
 Disiijilini', i'i\ ilisiii;,' ill'i'i't of, 'Jii.'! 
 Disrolillnrts nil linalil slrallli'l'. Mil 
 Dis|iinsalinn In li.sii nii a Saint's il.iy, lO'.l 
 Dislaiiii'S, t, 1 1 lie nl', i^nlii' n\ I'l' ill this In ink 
 
 by till' aiithnr. Sre '{'.'ilih' at mil. 
 !>iviniii>; inil nl' a tir.'isurc si'i-krr, .'i7 
 Dnrlnr, .\iiu'iir,iii, ami military hns|iitals, 
 
 :;.".i'., .'i.'iT 
 Dn:, :i s|inrtiii:: mii', Id7 
 Dili's hnwlinj,' like wnjvi's, ."iS; Ncwfuiiiiil- 
 
 lainl line's, .'I'.i 
 Do.u' rose in Nrw rniiiiillain!, l.'l.'! 
 Dniiieslie animals, limu.uhl tn l.alirailnr in 
 siniiiL;, .'iiiil Uillril in ilir fall, ,^7 
 ' Dnlilinn, lin.ils lisllill^', 7'.' 
 I Dni'selshire man in l.alir;iilnr, hns|iil;ilit v 
 I of, TO 
 
 I ' Dniihle lieilihil rnniii' at 'I'lileiln St.il inn 
 I llnti'l, •.'71 
 
 I Draft, Irisliman liaMe tn the, l,s7; for 
 the war at Chie.mn, '_'7,') ; why siihinil toil 
 tn hy Western States, ,'iOS 
 
 DraininK(lirnlialile)nf the .\ine. le.iii Lakes, 
 •J.'iti 
 
 Di.iwiii.i,' ill a sketeli Inxik, a ^'ooil liait to 
 Ret infnnnatinii I'lnm niilookers, 'Jal! 
 
 'Drawn' men at Uailway Station, '.'117, 
 :t(io 
 
 Dress of Ne.!.'i'oes at elinreh, '27:i 
 
 ' Dresseil rocks' of Senteli ^:ci)liif;ists, 2'2 
 
 Drift, where e.irrieil In by ice, i ; section 
 (if between Chieano ami St. I.oiiis, 'Jdl, 
 '-".'•J; (lie;iv\ ) ill the .Mlaiitie, l,^d; stones 
 on Mniin, NVashin-tnn, 'JI'J, 'Ji;t 
 
 Drift terraee, Mniint \\ .■isliinj.'tnii, 17, ,'inil 
 on siiles nf (iiatiil 'I'liink U.iilwa.\, 17, 
 1"^; 1,,'ikr Siiiierior, l,s; mi t'.uiailiaii 
 siile, !!•_'.•. 
 
 Dri\ers, .\nicrieaii, '200, -207 
 
 Di'ivin;,' Heimleer in Ncwl'miinllaml, I I'J 
 
 Drvsilale (Mr) on an iee-isl;iml en\ereil 
 SI 
 
 i 
 
: l>y sii|i|Mis('il Sea 
 i'li liy r.iiii \v;itrr, 
 
 ■M'l'i'ts 111", (111 New 
 i'.(ll) iVft.rHii'lsur, 
 iriicji, clc , ;t, 10 ; 
 111 Atii('iii;i, 10, I I ; 
 illci'ls 111', nil N. 
 
 I'rciiiliiiijiii, :i.'i'.i 
 
 I'lWl'C'li Lnuisvillc 
 
 llVlli.'l, 10 
 
 I, 'Jt'iT 
 
 iiirr ' l',iir(i|i;i,' .'CJ ; 
 
 lw;iy st.itinii, i;;!'.! ; 
 
 r, :u\:> 
 
 Hill ill !"iirll;iriil, 
 
 if Aimiiiiiii niil 
 
 ■ct i.r, '.'ii;; 
 
 iMiiiir, I li'i 
 
 ;i SMiiil's ij.iy, lO'.t 
 
 I' over 111 tills luiiik 
 
 mIiIi' III ciiij. 
 
 re seeker, ,'i7 
 
 iiiilitaiN lidspitals, 
 
 's, 'iS ; Ncwfoiiiiil- 
 
 11.1, i:!.'! 
 
 ^lil to l.alirailnr in 
 
 lie fall, ST 
 
 
 
 railiir. liiis|iilality 
 
 at Tcilcilo Stalldii 
 
 to tlie, isT; for 
 a; wliv .siihiiiitteil 
 ;t08 
 V A me. lean Lakes, 
 
 )k, a t:dO(l bait, to 
 onlookers, 'Ja:! 
 vay Station, '2V7, 
 
 nil, 27:^ 
 
 I'll ^^colofjists, 2'! 
 liy ice, 4 ; section 
 III! St. I.oiiis, •2'.>\, 
 antie, IMi; sloiies 
 I, LM-..', -Jl;) 
 isliiii^rloii, 17, and 
 link Railway, 17, 
 IS; on c'aiiaijiaii 
 
 •J07 
 
 ivroiiiiiUaiiil, M'„' 
 ei'-islaml covered 
 
 i.M'i:.\. 
 
 417 
 
 '":ni;,,f r'd • ^:;;;:::;r!;:'- ...e,,, 
 
 I'Vl.o river, ,'yele.. Ilsl, and e,,,u I,. •. : '' '^'/^"-''^ (^"^" l^'"l)"'- • a h.u, Ian I cape. 
 
 '■','•'■' (sill ill),, |- |,ni,' hulian l,r, ,.,|,, ■.■ir, 
 
 Election (,f l'ivsi,|,.|i|, irviii- iaihva\ pa, 
 sellers, 'JiN ' " ' 
 
 l';iec|jipne,.iiim' in Anieiii-a, :;:i| 
 
 KIcvatioii ,,f lan.l sii|,i„,.s,.,| i,, i,,,\,. ,,,.,, 
 dllccj laiKc I,„mI -jaeii'is, -.l 
 
 ' I'.levalor,' CliiiM-,!, -.'Ts, -.iro 
 
 I;Imiioiv may y,i be il„. ()ii,.|„,. ,,|- ,|,,. 
 Hall !,■, ■..'.;,. 
 
 '•'",'-'•■'"'' f" C.ipc liivlon, \vl„, ||„.\ 
 sioui,| I,,., IS; (lli,..;l,lan,|) ||,,iirlsli in 
 t ana, I.I, ■:_\; 
 
 i:ii.-r,,acliin,nl ,,1' .s,m at Civ.n's |',,n,| 
 
 t',0, 01 
 
 lai-in,. al CM.'a-o r,,r killm- |,i;,.s, •,■• • 
 
 I 'idHV tl.i\( ll,'!^ ,,n .\nie||,:,|i lail j'l'l 
 
 i'ie|,| |.r,.,|in'.' Ill .\i'«|,,iin.|lan,|, I;;-.: 
 
 '■ Ml' l,|l;;,i.|e, ,111 aiiialeiir, ■_•',' I 
 
 ImIC ei,_;,|„. cut,', I al ('r\ .l.ll I'.al.ie,. 
 
 sweann- of New V,,ikei , al mi 
 nsh ciirin- in l.il.r.i,|,,r, i,:i/ ,,, ■ ,.| i-,,,. 
 
 ll.'llUt of, ll'J. lIllMII ,.ll ,•',,,-,1 '|,y ,,.,. 
 
 7.1 ; (eyeless) ,,1 K.iilieNv i :i\e .' ■.fi ' 
 -Idllliii.i,' on LaKiai|.,i r,'.,i-,t, ,vs ' s'l ■ 
 iiianiirc, sl,'ii,|| ,.|', |:;|, | | , 
 ■■'islieiinen lij.iu n olf e,..e,i, jj i |||,.|, 
 Ian, lees not a,l:i|,|r,| f,,,- n,',. |,|,.' -, , " 
 
 '■'':.'.""- ■•^'•'-'"<. l..ilo;id,,i, r,;i, ..',1 i.,,„|, 
 \ idl. III', I IS 
 
 KS::''r:;l;;:'^-i~^^ ii.n.n.,.,,,::, 
 
 ■■ ■ ' I'll'''. .1 llsll sl;i;4,. .s,. ealle,| m N,w 
 
 ' Il.'ilid. I IS ; lar-c Hakes, 1 l;i 
 
 liesli lee,|,Ts ,; , <•: ■: I'lsl, ,-a|,T',, |ll| 
 
 I'lii- 111 .N,ul.,uii,|l;ind, l:..; , ili,. \:,ri,.ii 
 
 '■■nj.'l,iiid, likeness and ilissiniilaiily ,,r 
 country het.wcen T,,!,-,!,, ami ('lii,a,L;'., I,., 
 
 '■■I'^'lisl, rrjrl al l„,nisvill,., :;:■;.; ni.ii,|,n m 
 • .•ilia,|:i, •Jli; lii-4a^;e .sysl,ni ha, I uje^n 
 eoiii|,arei| with .\iiicrican, Iv: 
 
 Knll 
 
 iiisiast, a Sp.iiiisli 
 
 Imic (Lake), 
 
 siirj;eon, •J.'il 
 
 l>iii,|s ,,| ii\ |„.sts 1.,,; 
 I'liiil Islamls, I7 
 l'',\iii,L,'-llsli .and ^'iilfu,'. 
 
 i^'lil aliii\esea, L'SII; elleet.s I |'',).r ,| 
 
 |.e If 
 
 lie, I I 1 
 
 diselM'il nil 
 
 of a rise of :,o feet, 
 
 Ijiiil'iioii, a jiiolialili 
 
 Ks,|nini;iii\ isiands ;i:i ; |i,,ai, jo,-; 
 
 Llil' 
 <iililiiaiini>, I I I 
 
 ■scriln'.j, 11 I 
 
 l''o^' whistle iin M 
 
 I' 
 
 i\-IL;e 
 
 iles,'iil„,| .aiiil 
 
 li'l ; lisher, 71 ; wm 
 
 •;,'o, liailioiir with in,, intr: 
 ell.ili;^',' ,,f sea |,\,-| al,, ,• ,■ 
 
 '•"m|.aie,l will, |„a|,|,s, | K,,.,, Maml ( lit I i,), ||| 
 
 .\i 
 
 iierie.iii wliali'is, -JTo 
 
 n.iii on swearin- of j \' 1 ,,f | 
 
 l';ilino|,,;;y(.\i 
 
 •-'L'o 
 I'liir, 
 
 ii'lieaii), t,'a,liiir_'s,,f i,,i'k 
 
 I'ood 
 
 or man and l,e:ist in ,in Iielia 
 
 ji.i,' I he St. 
 
 on lM,,'ir, 
 
 ;i, 
 
 ,i'i;.'r, ::ii ; arr.inu'eineiil - 
 aiiiiiseni. Ills, :;;i 
 
 ■•Uro|ie:iii -laeiati.iii mav !..■ 
 
 for, si; 
 
 ae. ..llnle.j 
 
 Ii. I.|, •_': 
 "I.', I on Mr,' fini 
 
 l..il,r;i,|,,r, ,L:r,,wlli .,f, i| 
 oi.'sis ,,|' 
 
 S<...|i,i, I.-, 
 
 lan , oi n 
 
 11 ell ;il;.' .■|ii.!"i,., I, 
 
 ni.'i|>l 
 
 ik 
 
 ■n W hit.' y 
 
 -;.'|-a ,,li al„.iil f. ,|er.-d l,,ss .'il 
 
 i;\a 
 
 I. 
 
 I'.'\|d,i:ls, Uiver of, i", 1 ; 
 
 .'I I 
 
 ■I.' , 111 \,,\,i 
 ..iinl.iins, •.:|ii. 
 
 '.'•I 
 
 "ssils .li-,,',,\ 
 r.i.'ks ,,f ( '.I 
 
 oeai'li, ,s 
 
 se.i sImIIs in lal.^, I 
 
 ■^1 l.,iiiis, :;i 1 
 
 ere, I in s,i ,'al!i ,| '.'i/,,!,' ' 
 I'l'l'i, '_'ii ; in liiiiest,,ii,- .-ii 
 
 KX| 
 
 iressi\ eiicss 
 
 ifoM 
 
 i:v 
 
 ;i'j 
 
 cless tisli ,,f Kint 
 
 iiaiiMs .ifiii.iiint.aiiis 
 
 ll.'li\ ia\e; 
 
 M'.i 
 
 l''o\ (Ma.'k) -real i 
 
 ~~ : ,>il\er |,,x, 
 I'laiii,' .die, I, I 1,1 11 
 
 li'-ar I.etl 
 
 !'■ 1 1\ er. :; 1 1' 
 or |iri/e ill l,:il.>Mi|,,i, 
 
 l.v, :,l'.i 
 
 !'• e||M|n,', U,i|ii,lll ,■ ,'l\,-,| 
 
 AirioN |.-ii;iir, ;in Iii-^l 
 
 •Jl,! 
 
 I "II.' ill < '.111,1,1:1 
 
 ' l''.-ill,' a mark L, (i,',,l,,:'|st s, •'. 
 '••'.•ills' (III,'), t{i\er SI .l,,|in, I 
 tawa, "JiO 
 se news alioiil 1 1|,. w ir, •_'; | 
 
 Id : .il ( i| 
 
 ■ i',iii.',.iii.i n..|, h, li,M,|i,.s ,.ii, 'j; 
 ■Ve,|.'ii.(,,||, \,.u |(Minsui,k', !i;i, Il 
 ■'lee hl.aek •.; r, „ iiii in .lam.ii,':i, ;;•;.,, ;:; 
 ■'i."/iii4 .'I >. .1 .: , 
 
 ■'i-'ii.-li (.\, 
 
 riiian) ;ie,','iil , ,,f Ci n.i.li.in 
 
 Kal 
 
 ••'.lie, omniliiis far,' /ii r 
 ' l'';iirn,' si/e of • t.uj 
 shot, 2S7 
 
 'II !in,|, I '- 1 
 
 l.'tiisl-. -.'I-. 
 
 Il u.il.i fi.ini i. . Il 
 
 II .'\ ,■!■ w I 
 
 li aulli.ii- I^'iDiit 
 
 Where SCI lish n^e.l t,, I 
 
 i,.>, '"i'. ; ni.'iidie 
 
 iticr of (' 
 
 aii-ht , Vs 
 
 in.ida ami Iniled Mati 
 
 arming; al ('.■i|„' liii t,iii. |s, i.i , 
 climate th.an ti,,. ii,i|i\,' ,., 
 ciiiiL'iants, .-,0, M , 1,1 \,,^\ ){|.| 
 
 I'limly, Ii; 
 
 llldr\ ,,| .J( ;■ f; 
 
 i\ "I, '.< . 
 
 'Hi^llill- ,if lele, I,- 
 
 th. 
 
 icc/iiil; ,.i. 111 wml,T, ti', . I. in, I at 
 
 .1 ..r, |.,t 
 
 mii.'li SI a f. 
 
418 
 
 IXDKX. 
 
 .slioii's, 171 ; iisrs of, ;is ;i .--tiiiflnni.sc cif 
 
 licit, IT-.' 
 Kiiiik IsIjiihIs oiicu ti'iiantccl liv ),'ii;ii niik, 
 
 1 1 -I 
 Fiirnrs aiicl tlnir traiis in Liibrinlnr, 71 
 
 Gai !.iii|rivri;niil ciiluiiists in NUva Scdtia, 
 
 1.-,.; 
 Gaily iii|i|ii IS 111' iiiii.s<iiiitiHS ill NfwfmiiRl- 
 
 laii'l, l.'itl 
 (iaiiM- laws, iiiiiic in AnniiiM, •J!i.'! 
 (Jan^'iiiic (lii'>|iii,il), ni'w ciiir (nv, 'A'n 
 (iap, I'lint IsJiinils, -17 
 (ianninf in l-'rancc, a river in N. H. cor- 
 
 ri>|Miniliii^ (d^ Iriixcn o\t'i' I'ur livt; 
 
 niiiiitlis, li'iS 
 (icfsr (will!) in air, :;17 
 Gi-ikii' (Aivliilialij) dii tlic jilirnnniena of 
 
 tlii'Klaeiai cliifi in SiMllaiiil. L'-J 
 (JO(iIii};iiMl IVatuiis (if iciiksat St. Jdlin's, 
 
 lii5 
 (itn|cii:ist in ,1 lilonse. -Jls, -Jl'-J 
 (ii'iiliij;y iif Aniciii'.i, its cliicl' fcatiuvs, l!i 
 (ifiijian at huli'l in Niw Vcnk, 'A'Xi 
 (it-xcr toj,'fl, or ;,'i(at ank, ski'lctuns of, 
 
 11-. 
 (ifVM'r in Icclaiiil, ciiniiiaiisnii, .'U 
 (iiants' tnlis, icc-maiks si> caUnl, •.'tj 
 (iilt-ail, t<)r:icf ,it, I'.'S 
 «!irl witli niiitlii'r (aify's cliiikciis, 01 
 filarial )iiricnl, '.'•_' ; woik, iin trace nf, un 
 
 wall rslieil (if Illinois, •.".'! ; striie not 
 
 |ii'o(liiceii liy Kay ice, 7'i 
 (ilaeialists, two rival seliools of, -Jl 
 Glaeiateil roek foiiiiilation of Canaila, •J;1S i 
 (tlaeier, Noitlieni lOnropc, aerolilin^' to 
 
 A;;assi/;, oner eoveied by a .ureaf, •_'- ; j 
 
 ancient ;,'laeier of America, its extent 
 
 ai-eoriliiiu' to A^;assi/, •_':{, •_'( ; marks of 
 
 Jill aiicieiil one, I'lai-eiitia Hay, l.'i'.';! 
 
 sjioor of a iiolar ^'laciei' or I'liireiit, 175; ' 
 
 local, traces of, on Mount Wasliinyton, I 
 
 •-'14, -jii; 
 
 Gl;isj;o\v .M.T. in 17'J1-'J4 ilealt in ne^'l•ocs, | 
 
 37a 
 Glen House anmns the White Mountains, i 
 
 •-'(iS; hotel, -Jll j 
 
 Goat Island, sketching' at, a Sjianish siir- I Hamilton, sei-gcaiit and lieds of sand at, 
 
 (irain as cairied into nia^,'azines at C'hi 
 
 r'a;;o, •_'7.s 
 Grand 'rrmik IJaihvay, energies spent in 
 
 lillildin;,' lilid;^'e, '_'-Jii 
 (iranite blocks, Indian Islanil, >S0 ; at 
 
 Monkton, l.i7 
 (irassat Laiis a-ioup, 1(18; lofty stalks of, 
 
 L'l'.'i 
 Graveyards, country without old, ■_'7;i 
 Giavci lieils on White Mountains, 17; 
 
 (uater-worn) beds and mounds, 'Ji';! 
 (iiay horses, lli^'hlainl U'^rend about, 'JOT 
 ' Graybaeks fou;,dit well,' opinion of l'"ede- 
 
 ral soldier, •Jil'.i 
 Gray-coated men, an avalanche of, at a 
 
 railway station, '-".•7 
 Great I'',astern at Liveriiool, 30 
 Great Relief, Kentucky, 341) 
 Greedy Harbour, icebei;,' ami 'growlers' 
 
 at, '.'7 ; adventures ;it, W) 
 Greenbacks and no gold, isO 
 'Green' cod sent from Labrador to be 
 
 drieil, IK) 
 (ireiii UiNfr, Kentucky, ;i4i', 347 
 (ireen's ToU'i, ictdiergs, tin : church\aiil 
 
 at, lio ; coirespiuids in hititinle to the 
 
 Scilly Isles, t;-.' 
 Growtii of towns in United States, •J7t'i 
 Gnaiio, ski'letons of great auk fouml in, 
 
 11.-. 
 Gulf stream outside eiirienf near Nova 
 
 Scotia, 110; marks of, 111; how it 
 
 would be all'ected by de]iression of 
 
 America, 1 1 
 Gulf weed, 171); observed oil' Cape Race, 
 
 111 
 Giinbojit (iron), one making at St. Louis, 
 
 ;!I3 
 (inns, tiring of great, at Liverjiool, ;{1 
 (iymnast at Windsor, 43 
 
 H.M.r URK.Kii Indian) in Canada, 243 
 Halifax, steamer arrives at, 41 ; ti(h' at, 
 
 4:{ ; rcsemhlance of conntrv to Xruwiiv, 
 
 43, 153 
 Hall (('. V.) oil swejiring of American 
 
 whaler*, 270 
 
 geon, etc. 
 
 il ; i. 
 
 rksat, 2:1 
 
 Ivantage of Knglish, in America, [ Hamilton Inlet, Labrador, !•() ; Hudson's 
 I.>^1, IS.'i ; in Nova Seoti.t, 43; author i Bay (-onipany't-' station, 
 
 supiiosid to be jiiospt cling tor, 4r 
 liiitish Columbia, :;o:! 
 
 (J 
 
 li- 
 
 •r in .\ustralia, 40 
 
 Hands (slender) of thoroughbieil Indians, 
 
 240 
 Hanging of two men .'it Paris, Kansas, 
 
 (lohl-miiies near Halifax, b' 
 
 Irom ncwsiiMiie 
 
 ;!2.> 
 
 Gordon, Hon. Arthur, on New I!rniis\vi(d<, ' 'Hippy Family ' street menagerie in Lon- 
 
 170 
 Gorham, eulti\ati'd drift 
 and the White Mouiilains 
 
 locks at, 210 
 
 Mintry, I'.iO; Harbour (irace, terraced drift, ."4 
 
 II'; giaciateil ' Hare on the road iiursudl by the driver. 
 
 ariiiecl bands 
 
 •GoriU.M 
 
 der states, ;!:i;i 
 Gotteiiburg, low 
 
 eallt d in bo]- 
 
 • tl, ' Thousand 
 
 4 -J 
 Har)< 
 
 call, d, 04 
 
 I> 
 
 IlS rex 
 
 nibk 
 
 Harrison (Cajie , Labradoi-, <il ; climati 
 
 at, 04 
 Haste of Yankees in diniii:,', 2t'i7 
 
 i 
 
INUKX. 
 
 ll'.» 
 
 iigaziiifs at C'lii 
 
 iiriV'ic^ spi'iit ill 
 
 Isliiuil, fSO; at 
 
 ; Idl'ty stalks (if, 
 
 lout old, 'J7;i 
 Miiuiitaiiis, 17 ; 
 iiiiiuiiils, ■_'•.'.'( 
 ;(ImI alidiit, "JO? 
 (>|iiiiioii (if Fudf- 
 
 alaiiclie of, at a 
 
 :iiii, ;!47 
 
 till : cliiirchyard 
 1 latitudi' to' tlif 
 
 cd States, ■J7r) 
 at auk found in, 
 
 nciif near Nova 
 [if, 111; how it 
 y (Iciircssion of 
 
 oil' Cajic Hact.', 
 
 nji at St. Ijouis, 
 
 .iviriMiol, lil 
 
 Canada, 243 
 at, 41 ; tide at, 
 mtiy to Xorway, 
 
 j; of Ainciicaii 
 
 lieds of sand at, 
 
 >r, iM» ; Hudson's 
 
 U};lil'ri'd Indians, 
 
 I'a;is, Kansas, 
 
 lunaycriL' in Lmi- 
 
 dvilt, .'.4 
 
 liy till' driver, 
 
 llatti'ias S\v:isli, inlets 
 
 lllluiu' 
 
 •1.1 
 
 nicd liv 
 
 ocean i-lli lent , 
 
 Hawk 
 
 llarli'Mir, i^tliiiiiis of ImmiIi 
 
 cause iijicnonieiia <<( drift, '.'.'i, -J'.i ; dii 
 
 ami raisci 
 
 licacli, lull 
 
 Hawkins (Caiit.) aiel C^ueOli lie 
 H, 
 
 Kiv 
 
 cr, oreaMii" up ol 
 
 111, H'lS, 
 
 lil'.t 
 
 ' H.'adci 
 
 llellljdr 
 
 if cod on |.;ilii;ii|..|- enast , S'.l 
 
 vii>a;,'e out, .':ii, ill ; culnur at sunset, 
 ;;s ; a.Lrroniid in ('oncc|itiiiii llav, 'pI, a.'> ; 
 at 'rouliiiLiUct , I'p'i ; lucakinu ii|i nf dUc, 
 (V, : a siii.ill one otf l.jtlle l!(ilci>.lc, I'.t'i ; 
 
 resciidilin^' 
 jHolialilo 
 
 icr.ic a'-'roimd 
 
 lia 
 
 Ailsa-CraL. 
 
 etc 
 
 •linialc III", lii'il'-r tJiaii tlial of size of, 7ii ; acted on sli-litly liy wind, 
 
 Cajie liret'ill, ."i:l, .',1 
 
 lii'J ; curious sliaocs (.!', '.lo ; ulisciAa 
 
 rowii), ;i ni:iii 
 
 if, in Nov. 
 
 Hcinaiile (li 
 
 Scdtia, l"."i 
 Henley HarliMiir, I'n'i ; raised lie.idi iilmM 
 
 sea, 1 1 111 
 Hi'^li l''- ik ; e>ccui>.ion to tiiid ice marks, li 
 
 .'I'.M'i 1 1 
 
 Hii-'liest s|Mit in a new jdace, ad\ antai^e of li 
 earlv \i>it 111, ■J.-l'.i 
 
 timis mi till' ice (if line, ji; 
 of diniensions 
 
 OS 
 
 a I ^1 
 
 llawl 
 
 II. 'I 
 
 ; c.dciil.itliin 
 
 lilies N. ,,f 
 
 ilf Stl.iils iif 
 
 licijeisle, Mclinll 111', 'Js;! 
 
 lats, iiiiwcr of, ill uiniir, •J;;'.! 
 
 iiise at Uiicky l.,ike, -\-j, 4;i 
 
 Limls, v,.in fnnii lleiilev li.iilinii 
 
 I mi 
 
 lli-lll.'ll 
 
 Id daiiie in ( 'aiiada, .4 1 
 Hiiilil.niilcr met witli at Ni!i'j:ara, -.'.'iii 
 
 111 II 
 
 lee-ni.irks neir llalif.ix and otlier jiarts ol 
 
 Hi-lilai 
 
 iders II 
 
 f ('aji!.' liretoii, 4s 
 
 iti(h 
 
 Niiva Sc.ilia, l."i ; St. Ji 
 
 Newriiiindl.ind, 1'. 
 
 i:i ; .-i* St 
 
 It Kredi 
 
 ay.- and iiiiliteiiess of, 4',' ; (two) swear- , rictnii, Iti.i ; at St. .lujin, New Hruiis 
 
 wick, 171 ; at Kas 
 
 irt. Main 
 
 I'lirtlalid, is.'i; mi Mmint \V,i.^liin:.:li 
 
 It iil 
 
 ini; a iiiatcli, •J7o 
 Hill tojisof Lalir.idiir, 7-J 
 Hills (iild should lie c.tllcd liy old nati 
 
 names, -.'I I 
 
 Hitclieock ( I'rof ), nil surface j;ci ilci^'y, 'J 
 
 of AiJiericin (.'mitinent, '-'s 
 Hoj;artli's ' (iate Ilf (';ihiis' referred to, "J I'J liii|iorts and eximrts nf New fiuuidlaiid, 
 
 •JI4, -Jl.'i ; at (ii.at ls!;iiiil, 
 ruck, Hiillal 
 
 _'(lii 
 
 li 
 
 •iiual. 
 
 a re;,'isli'r of mi 
 
 lee r.ift, il:in;,'i'r of, lit 
 
 H 
 
 ii;s C.I riled liv r.iil 
 
 L'SO : how tl 
 
 lL':t 
 Indi.'in 
 
 emu, -J, 
 
 a iliizeii ears a ^m 
 
 d fe 
 
 and cure tliciii at (.'hici^'o, ■Jsil -js:! 
 Holtiili ll;irliiiiir, hay ;,'etliii,:,' shoalci, ' 
 
 '.•1 ; lier;,'S seen out-ide, '.I.! 
 Holyrood, minerals found at, I4:{ 
 lliirlzmis linked, nient;il siii ve> in;.', '_'"_". 
 Hmlziiiital n.itiire of .Viiiericaii secnerv, Indian llmlimir, l,alii;ii|i 
 
 Ilk smiill finest, 'Jl'.'i 
 
 fur a hiii> 
 
 Indi.'in ciiii, a eiiiioiis [iLiut (Sitrraci-nin ^), 
 
 lil 
 
 r. ;'l 
 
 Indi.'in 
 
 and, L.'ilii'.'idi 
 
 lliir.- 
 
 dnZell e;n'> uf Indi.ili I'l'lU a ,^1111 
 
 ilisei'v.'itimi 
 
 feed f 
 
 or, -jiHi 
 Horses that would stand :iii>tiiln'.; hut 
 
 ellK'llie.s, -JDii 
 Hoise-lie 
 
 .,'iliiadiir, '.t| 
 
 liiiiodthirst v New rmindland 
 
 llles, 1 
 Hmsesh 
 water, 
 ^|lltal 
 
 r 
 
 Ni, 
 
 i;4.'iia, ciiluiir o 
 
 Hi 
 
 America, 
 
 (Military), in Miirniie and In 
 
 maile mi, I'.i, .so, i.i;i 
 Imli.'in te.i ([.nl II III I, 
 
 Tiiiilln-iiet, ll-J 
 Iliiliaii e.'ilii|is, Niiv.'i Scnli.i, |ii ; mi lin.'ud 
 
 steamer, vocalnil.'iiy, lii-J; nun and 
 
 women lle.ir I'lederietnll, hi 
 
 Newt'iinndlalid, l.'iii, j.'il ; liid 
 
 it SmIiicv, 
 
 war in 
 i.'iii eani|i 
 
 ■/li, ii.ii 
 
 Hosjiitallty of an American, 1^1 
 
 Hotel, disemiiforts of a crowded on(> at 
 
 Toledo, •_'71 
 Hotel lifted at Chicau'o, -'>^4 
 
 Indi.ins Winking' for 111 
 
 liany, '.ej 
 Ilidlairiiiolis, a soldier' 
 
 wmiieii in ( 'anada, 'Jlii't 
 Ill's I'.av Ciini 
 
 'iiiivi'rs.'itimi 
 
 aliiiiit nc^rro snldler, :i:is ; i/jUs nf tan 
 ai.S ; hotel at, .'Hi!* 
 
 lions 
 
 instructed hv hc-ivers, i:;',i, 140 ; 
 
 Inn, Newfmindlan 
 in New t'niinill.'in- 
 
 \■.^,^^ ; .'I i-n.'idsli 
 I -JS 
 
 lifting,' of, at (.'hic;iL.'o, -.'si ; (white), neat- 
 
 iiid 
 
 irtalile look of, about 
 
 Innkeeiier of hotel, M.'imniiith civi 
 
 (Mui'.'i;_'o, 
 
 ln^t liH'l or design nf 
 
 •ivi'is 111 cmistrui 
 
 Human oat lent s in caves fnr three nr fmir tioii of their dams, 1: is- 141 
 
 months, .'{4'.i 
 
 Inlerinr of Newfonndljind iinite unknown 
 
 111', mi I.; 
 
 ilil.lilor en. 
 
 '1st, ti 
 
 tiS. 
 
 thl> 
 
 I t 
 
 Iri 
 
 inh.ililtants, IMi, l.'il 
 
 ■ lonlsts in Can.'id.i, •_'4.'i ; I'liiniiv at 
 
 ness of, at rouliiiL.'iiet near shore, ll.'t; 
 from I'linee Ivlwaid's Island kimw n hv 
 
 (ireen's I'mid, til ; driM'r, modesty of, 
 .'i.i ; farmer, Newfrniiiilland, is; L'iilsaf 
 
 its red 
 
 ur, l.'i.'i ; iiiilishin;,' a stnm 
 
 tijuidi Villi, 147 
 
 71); lireakin.uMip nil a ii\ er ill Hiidsmi's li'ishiii.in, an nid 
 
 H.'iv, ltl<5, Iti'.i 
 
 Newfimndlaii 
 
 and Ills f.iniily in 
 and l.'iliiiurer, svn 
 
420 
 
 INDKX. 
 
 »•• 
 
 oiiyiiioiis tciiiis in ['. S , |n7; iiuiiia;^'iiit,' j 
 lictliiit,' at I, misvillc, .'itio, 'Ml ; diggiii',' 
 • liaiiis at I'oitiaiiil, ISO 
 
 [i(iii : district, '■»>:', ; ilncs iiut last long in ! 
 l.aliradcir, hij; t'aitniv at St. hotiis, yut 
 
 lii>ii-orc liduldiTs, "Jt'i, l!" 
 
 IslaiMl (if liiiicslunf sliaiKMl liy tlic ice into 
 tli(! outlinr (if ;i vMclit or a lisii, 24' 
 
 Isotlifrnial line ofCajpc liicton, 47 ! 
 
 I 
 
 Jackson on f^lacial stria- and transiiort of 
 lioiddi'is, -J.') ; on watLT-niaiks near 
 Mount Washing;! on, 2.') i 
 
 Jamaica, I'rci! liiaidv (.q-ooni in, .".7"', .'(70 ; | 
 liolo ill loot' of a free Mark's hut, ;;77 
 
 .lanicH IJivrr near Hiuliinoml, sca-sliells 
 abov(\ 17 
 
 Jays in N'cwfonndland, 14i) 
 
 Jcanncttr politics of , ,'l."i7 
 
 Jcir(Tsoii(.Mount), one of White Mountains, 
 •JK) 
 
 Joliut, railway at, 'Jim 
 
 Judge (Scotch), with white choker, storv 
 of, -JOT 
 
 Juni]u'r, larch so called in Newfound- 
 land, 13;i 
 
 ' Kamks,' water drift in, Id:? i 
 
 Kankakee, a slow-u'ojng river at filming- | 
 
 Ion, 'Jltl ' I 
 
 ' Kcarsarge' one of the crew, .'i.j i 
 
 Kentucky, feeling aliout war in, .'{'JS ; mud 
 
 carried liv old arctic current uver, 344 ; 
 
 caves of,':;44, ;i.".4 , 
 
 Kiiisaic, old Head of, ;i;i 
 Kiti-licii-iiiiddcns of [.a'lrador, l(i') ! 
 
 Kingtishcrs (brown), aiuoiig White Moun- j 
 
 fains, noise df, •_'!',> \ 
 
 King's (..'ovc-, iceberg, "ii") ; a treasure seeker, | 
 
 •■)7 ; raised beach at, 77, Hi 
 Kingston in Canada, 'J")l 
 
 l,A!i()i!i ill Labrador, how paid for, 108 
 
 Labrador, how a depression would atl'ect 
 it, 11; ancient m'm-IcvcI, 15; lirst view 
 (if coast, i''7 : inhabitants of, 0'.); chart | 
 of, wanted, 70; inteiiorof, 71 ; dogs, Mt ; ' 
 teiiipcrature of, 87, SS ; intetior has a i 
 inilder (liiuate than coast, !i:i-;i4 ; nu'ct i 
 with two jiassengcrs who had been in, isi j 
 
 La Chine rapids, ancient sea-coast, pro- 
 bably near, •_':{.') 
 
 l.dic steamer ill Canada, 24.") 
 
 Lakes, levels of Anierieaii, ■J"4 ; Sujierior j 
 anil Miciiigan, high teriaces on sides of, 
 
 IS [ 
 
 Lamb, a vain search for, at, ]5iioiia-\ista, 
 111! 
 
 Land .;la<'icrs cause phenomena of drift, ; 
 
 'J;i, •-'», 20 
 Land-ice, course of its travels near Port ; 
 
 land. ISO; (pnl.irX suiipnsccl marks' 
 
 causeil bv , -.'I'. 
 
 Landlady in Ncwfuiiiidland, i:i3; a. ver> 
 
 fat one and her barrel, 142 
 Landscaiic in Canada, 217 ; on the Ottawa, 
 
 24!i 
 Lans ;i-loui), fantastic clifls at, 10.'^, large 
 
 blocks of granite, etc., 1 12 
 La]ips of Sciiiidina\ia compared with Lab- 
 rador Lsi|uiiiiaux, 104 
 Laski Mr. John de). on glaciated rocks 
 
 .about Penobscot Day, 2.'j 
 Laureiiti.in ihain of a/oic rocks, P.> ; rocks 
 
 to south of, 20; sinking and rising of, 
 
 inlluence on current, 2S, 2!» 
 r.awyer Scotidi, turned Yankee, .'i04 
 Lecture on negro character, 273 
 Lenien in Labrador, 02 
 Lethe river, Kentuckv, 340; peciiliaritiesi 
 
 of, ;!47 
 LeV(ds of Anicrican hakes, 234 
 Lies, a laige crop of big ones grow in the 
 
 West, 27.0 
 Lii'Utcnant of ' Alabimia,' 30, 37 
 Lifting of houses at Chicago, 284 
 Light thrown on areliaology of Denmark, 
 
 etc., by Labrador, liiO 
 Lightnin.rat l{uona-^■ista, ll.'i 
 Lime, reason of a farmer of Cajie IJrcton 
 
 for not using, 4S 
 Limestone rock at Ottawa, iee-rubbcd, 241 ; 
 
 singalar wcitliering of, 341, 342 
 Lincoln, voters for, uol 
 Liverpool, 30 
 
 Lizards of Kentmky caves, 340 
 Loi ke's .Mills, shingle and sand-beds at, 
 
 107 
 Locomotives, a gathering of, on ;i wilder- 
 ness of rails, 270 
 fiOgmi Sir Will.) discovers fossils in so- 
 called azoic i-ocks, 20 
 Log-hut where Chicago now stands, 270 
 Londonderry, Xova Scotia, l.'i.') 
 Long Island, Labrador, observations made 
 
 at, 00 
 Lorne, accent of, heard in Canada, 244 
 Louisville, guerilla ojierations near, ;i27 ; 
 
 ladies of, :;20 ; niilit.iry hosjiital, 3.'ii) 
 Luggage system of America, its goodness, 
 
 loo 102 
 Luna Island, Niagara, bouhler at, 250 
 Lycll (Sir C.) on Niagara Falls as a 
 
 gi'ological chronunieter, 2J8 
 
 XrAcLKi.i.AN, a niajoiitv for, 2i'0 ; voters 
 
 for, ;ioi 
 Mailison, steamers made and mended at, 
 
 :i(iO 
 Madison (Mount one of White .Mountains, 
 
 210 
 Mail uji l,abrador coast wtinld pay, 124 
 Mail steamer, Newfoundland, 110 
 >Lainiedniennt Kastport, ISO; at Portland, 
 
 IS.! 
 .Maine. ..Vtl.-mtie slope of, Iss; liipior law 
 
INDKX. 
 
 421 
 
 id, i:i3 ; a very 
 
 ■I'J 
 
 ; uiitlie Ottinva, 
 
 Ts at, lOS, largu 
 
 [liired witli Lab- 
 
 j,'laciiiteil rocks 
 
 * 
 
 rocks, 10; ro(tks 
 
 •^ uikI rising; of, 
 
 , •.'!-• 
 
 aukuc, :JO-t 
 
 r, 273 
 
 ; peculiarities 
 
 , 11.') 
 
 (jf Caiie Hrctou 
 
 i('('-rulil)cd, 'J41 ; 
 :M1,:j42 
 
 of, oil a wilder- 
 fossils in so- 
 
 (.'ana.la, 244 
 oils near, 327 ; 
 )siiital, :i"ii) 
 1, its 1,'ooiluuss, 
 
 Icr at, 250 
 a I'alls as a 
 
 L'JS 
 
 ir, '.'t''0 ; voters 
 
 l iiioiult'd at, 
 
 ilf >[iniiitains. 
 
 illustrated in a [ilay, 'JSt' ; liciuor, an 
 
 nnlmtunate trial of, 177, 17S 
 Manmiiitli ttoiies I'niind m Kentinky, ,",ll 
 Manniii>tli eave, stalaetiti's in, 301 ; hotel ' Mnicliisdn (Sir K'lilirlek) disccivers frss 
 
 IJretoii, eti'., earried Iiy lee, '.'in); carried 
 liy ocean-etirients, :;»;( ; nf Hiver. Missis 
 siiiiii, ,'io.') ; i]f h.iiiks, I'.oii 
 
 Ml, 3J2 
 
 liniises in, 
 
 111 s.i callei 
 
 a/dic' incks lit Scotland, 'JO 
 
 .Manure ofli.-^li j,'Uts in Xewt'oundland, 131, ' .Murder of an en rolling' oilic r,' fioiii Ken- 
 
 14 J 
 Marine anliilecture, Qiiidi Vidi, 147, 1 is ; 
 
 tiicky jiaper, ;i'j;! ; in Putnam coui jy, 
 
 St. .Toll 
 
 14 '.I 
 
 .Maiincrs(ilaiiiii)oii1ioaid ' .Vriel,' and their 
 
 occU]ialions, rjn, 1-jl 
 Marmot (whistler) in l.aluador, 02 
 Masonry, none in Lrliiador, lo.', 
 M'ltonaM (.Mr.), sees an iceberg with a i .Musician (neLjio), MamnKpth cavt 
 
 Indiana, from news|M|> 
 
 14 ; (■diahnli^ 
 
 cul) III Henderson county, fioui iiews- 
 jiaper, :'..;! 
 Mnrrav's Karhour, I.alirador, (10, 1(p2 
 
 Ml 
 
 isic and ilaiicii|.' a 
 
 t an inn in Newfound- 
 
 iiid, i: 
 
 stone frozt'ii into it, M 
 Meals on hoard Ohio steaniei', :u'i') 
 -Mealy .Mountains, !•.'> 
 .Meat oil hoard Newfoundland ainl La- 
 
 hrador steamer, 118, 121 
 Metanior|iliic rocks at I'ortlaml, ist! 
 Methoilist hymns and melodies chauiited 
 
 liy hackwdodsmcii, 247 
 Miami ii\er i'ro>sed, 3s7 
 .Mica-schist of White .Mountains, 222 
 Miclii,ij;an (Lake), scratched sti 
 
 .Musquaiia, near .Vnticnsti ; route to, ivj 
 
 .\.\Mi:s of mountains, expressiveness of 
 
 old, 212 
 Na>hville, coineisation with a slave of. 
 
 Native names hest for ohi hills, 2)1 
 
 Natives, 
 
 aimers and customs' of, 24.' 
 
 .\avij,'atioii, a good idace for e.\perime>: 
 
 1 heaeh. 
 
 tal, lo:" 
 vvv, discourse ( 
 
 if one at St, Loll 
 
 Nc''i 
 
 o, what is to be i| 
 
 iiie with hill 
 
 is, 31, 
 3s'J 
 
 Micmac Indians in Nova Scotia, 4t) ; eiii- 
 
 |iloymcnts of, 4'.' 
 Mi},'iatioii of reindeer, 141 
 Millinery (I-'iciich), at Louisville, ;i20 
 .Mineials found near llolyro id, 143 
 Mines (Hay of rise o|' tiile in, 4."( 
 .Miniature rapids close to .Niaj,'ara, 2"i3 
 Mini 
 
 lesota, territorv of, :i02, wheat of, 3(i3 : 
 
 eiitcrpiisc o 
 
 f, 3o:i, ,!04 
 
 .Missionary for Labrador, "iS 
 Missisau.u'es, an cdd Indian tribe, 250 
 Mississijipi (Valley of), its (diaracter, 302 
 
 ■iild of river, 30.') 
 
 Mi.< 
 
 :\litcli.'ll, ;ilO, 320 
 
 iiri, junction with Mississijipi, ,'i02 
 
 Moii;.'rcl breeds in (.'anaila, 215 
 .Moiiktoii, Nova Scotia, 157 
 
 3>Stj ; ear.u'o, Cajitain Hawkins and his, 
 371; (diaracter, lecture on, 272, 273; 
 Kirl at I.oiii.sville in .^ky-bluc silken 
 swallowtail, ;f3o ; life, peiuliarities of, 
 
 375, 3S(;; life at I'ittsbtir; 
 
 inter- 
 
 course with ne;,'roes. :i74 ; ni(dodies (]jo- 
 fiiilar), ;!Sl ; nuisc, stories learned from, 
 37s; rej^inieiit e!ieani|iec|, ;!:!.'i, •.',:ii) ; sol 
 diers not ]io]inlar in Keutuid<y, .''.2t'i ; 
 wl'ite soldiers will not fraternise with, 
 3:iS ; wait. rat Indiaiiaiiolis liotid, •M\[i 
 
 Ne;4roes iirefer sla\ery to b •iiiK'shot, .332 ; 
 stick toficther, ;'.75 ; war with Sniith 
 iiiav be earried on for ve.ars by the help 
 of, ':;si 
 
 New Hrunswick, its icsemblanee to Scan- 
 ilinavia, 171 ; climate, 172 
 
 Montnioreiici Fall, as seen ten miles off, at 'New Ln,L;land ' stcanic'r, 102 
 
 yiieb. 
 
 !1 
 
 Montreal Mountain, scenery from, 225 
 
 Newfoiiudland, how a de]iression would 
 
 itfcct it, S, ;i ; Ice of. 
 
 : <loi:s, their 
 
 bl 
 
 ocKs on. 
 
 Klaei 
 
 'x\ stria' on the mountain 
 
 22i' ; bouhh'rs and cliaracteristii-s, 5'.t; banks Kcftiiig shoal- 
 
 Moraines on icebergs, ;{ ; of Lonibardv 
 
 lot! 
 
 11(1, 111 ; from Henley Harbour, 
 steamer too near a clilf in, inO; a 
 
 and (iciiuany, 22 ; I'lacentia Hay, 132 ! visit to, wurtli tlio trouble of author' 
 MorL;an (.Mr), a free bla<k j^'room in , triji, 123 ; ]ihaton and driver, 12s ; local 
 
 Jamaica, 375, 37('i 
 Morj,'aii, as describe(l by dilfcrcnt sidi 
 
 system of ^,daciers, 1.32, 14('p; i h.iiiKe of 
 liinate away from cold sea, 133 ; igno. 
 nice about interior, 150, 151 
 
 >rosipiitos of L.ibrador, 7:i ; so thii k iiat News about thi' war a' Chicaj:o not to be 
 
 von can 
 
 t see Ihiou'dl them. 
 
 trusted, 271 
 
 board steamer, liio ; furious at Lans-a New Vmk. idectioii spoeclies at, 302 ; ho 
 loiii>, ins; l.irs^'e and vicidus ones in td experience at, 303 ; ire-marks at, 3'.i7 
 
 .Niatrara Fal 
 
 iboltt, 
 
 ICC. marks, 2.).i 
 
 Nova Scotia, 1.' 
 Motlier Carey's ( hicki lis at Creen's Pnihl, 
 
 f.2, 40 
 Movement and otTeets of i-'i'''''>l j-'lacnr in than St. L.i\'rcnee, 250 
 
 ;4 ; iioiliiiiL' new to sav 
 
 action <'f 
 
 water .and ii'i> on clilfs, 250 ; river oldei 
 
 North .Vmerica, 24 
 Mild around titr.anded i'l bei-; 
 
 it ( .'ip 
 
 Nick naeks (enibroiileroi 
 women, 21t; 
 
 IV inilian 
 
422 
 
 INItKX. 
 
 f-: 
 
 Nnlilciiinn (l''.ii;,'li.sli) wioti' iliiwii history 
 
 (if watfr-liiill, i;ii> 
 NoiiiKiiis t:iki' li.ill'ii cl:iy Id kill ii pi;:, 'JSD 
 Nmlli IliciiiitJiMlly ll;,'litili;^' tn Irfc otluTS, 
 
 pr;ictii',-illy,iiiil. .'i.'ii.', '■''■i'l, :'M> 
 N'di'w.iy iiini Nrw Tniiinll.iiiil cuiiiiiarcd iii 
 
 llli'.ilis 1)1' I'limnillliiratjnii, IJl ; in Iml;,'- ] 
 
 m;,'iilic| wcatlni, I .'J ' 
 
 N'dsi', spcakiiiL; lliiiin;;li llic, 'Jst! 
 'N'lilrli' (111 Mdiiiil \Va-liin^;t(iii, '^lli; (if 
 
 .Miiiitmoniici fall alliii'ils a date In 
 
 Kf"Iii;:ist, i;.'!! 
 Nova Sciiti;', linw a di jircssidn wmild 
 
 all'cct it, !• ; likely soiiif day to liicoiuc 
 
 an island, I'); no lisliin^' in, J'.'; gold 
 
 in, Ci 
 
 ( »AKs (si iintcil) (if New Ml iinswick, l"'J 
 Ucfan '■nircnt, dircctinn of an ice-laden, 
 I, •_' ; lliiating into St. Lawrence hioonc, 
 Itii'i; cnirents carry snsiiunded nm(|, 
 ;m:i 
 Oliio liiver, nniddy water, .'!i'l ; its lied at 
 Louisville, ;iil-J ;' banks, ;i('i;i, :!ii4 ; deptli 
 of water, .'{I'.'l., ecildiir of waler, ;ii;4 
 Oil re;.'ions near Lake Krie, •Ji'itl 
 ( )nt,'irio terraces of gravel, sand, etc., 'J3-' ; 
 
 rise of land at read of lake, '_':!.'! 
 Open air lixiiig cniiinion in .\nieriea, li'i.'i 
 'Osar,' water-diil'l ]iaeked in, l'.»S 
 Ottawa, I'anada, arctic shells at, l."i; 
 liver fro/cn at, 'Jlo; water deeiier in 
 s]iiing, 'Jfd ; ra]ii(l.s of, 'J.'.Ci ; landscaiie 
 on, -SV.': city, •Jl'.t; line falls at, -J.'iU ; 
 ]irolia1ile L;i(iwili of, 'J.M 
 Oyster shells mi hills between Madison 
 and Yellow Stone Uiver, Hi 
 
 I'.KfK Island, oliservations made at, i't'i 
 ' I'an ice ' month of Hamilton inlet, !•:! 
 I'apcr cents and silver cohi, .an Anierican 
 
 driver, 1S4 
 I'apcr, wages paid in, IS7 
 Par and (liar in New I'oiiinll.ind, l.'l-t 
 I'aris (West), dejiosit of roUei' stones at, 
 
 V.I7 
 I'arlianicnt House at Ottawa, L'.'iO 
 l'artrid,i,'c-l(erries, women and girls gather- 
 ing, 1-J7 
 Partridge Harhonr, l*') 
 Passage, ' cheap and nasty,' r.:i 
 Passengers on hoard steamer, lit), 117, 
 
 110; on hoard a Yankee steamer, I7t''; 
 
 in railway trains, I'.'.'i 
 Penohscot Hay, glaciated I'ocks almnt, i!") 
 I'erchud Mocks on hill top of Indian 
 
 Islaml, SO : Indian Island, VO 
 Perley on New Uinnswick, l7o 
 Photograph.s taken on Mount Washington, 
 
 •J-Jl 
 Phrenology does not teach whcic shoe 
 
 pinches, ISii 
 Physical geograi)hy of Ameiit'a, ti-H' 
 
 Pig in Ireland i)ays lent, in Aiiieiica is 
 
 pii or man's foe, ;;(iii 
 Pigs Mid poultry at an inn in Newfound 
 
 land, IL'S 
 Pig ki ling at Chicago, 'Jso, 'J,s| 
 pilot of Wood-raft on Canadian rivcis, 
 
 U'ls; (Indian Island) ei-dss (|uusti(ined 
 
 liy misslDiiary, !•! 
 I'incs of New lirnnswi(k, 17'-' 
 l''acentia May, icuinaiks at, US; terrace 
 
 ( n shore, l:;l 
 I'liiins of Aiiieiira, iilenty of room. 'Jlo; 
 
 if Unitccl States, what traveller by rail 
 
 sees, '_",•.'') 
 
 Planks made at sawmill in Canada, 'Jl'.t 
 
 Platforms of railwav trains, I',i4 
 
 Play at Chicago, -Js"! ; at Miillalo, and 
 
 those jircseiii at it, 'jii:; 
 ' Plentv of lish in Urig llarbnur,' origin of 
 
 saying, l'j:i 
 Polar currents, tlicii- charaeter and elleets 
 
 shiiuld be stmlied, 1.''. 
 'police procee(lii,L;s,' from newspai>ers, 
 
 Oct. II, IStiJ, ICii! 
 Political economy to be learneil from 
 
 I pie, 1.S7 
 
 Population of Labrador, lixed and transi 
 
 tory, I'-"-' 
 Pork and beef, as well as bonlders, 
 
 abound about Mulfalo, '.'('17 
 Porpoises on vovage out, .'l.i ; a large shoal 
 
 of. Ill 
 ' Portage,' a mark to geologist, '_'.'lii 
 Portland, scenes at Isl Is.'i; views from 
 
 Iss ; ice niaiks at, IS>,( 
 Portmanteau, story of, I'.'l 
 Port wine imported into St. .lohn's, !'.':>; 
 
 iiiil)roved by being cariied to New- 
 foundland, .'It'S 
 Post-bags, delivery of, in Labrador, 7.'>, 7t') 
 Pot holes in granite, obser\c(l t)y Mr. 
 
 .lackson, 2.') 
 Prairie, shooting on, '2'M ; farming adven 
 
 turers (Ui, 'J'.i') ; fertility of, '.",••; ; .above 
 
 St Louis, :!l.'), .'ill') 
 Pr.iiiie liensat Wilmington, '2'Xi : Carlisle, 
 
 ;iUi 
 Prairie hogs, their end at Chicago, '_'S1 
 Prescott, r;ii)i(l at, •.':!(! 
 Primitive condition of Cajie Uretou, 4'.i 
 Prince lOdward's Lsland in the distance, 
 
 1 .-,(') 
 Prince of Wales at ^ViIlnington, 'IU'2 
 Processions at Hoston, .'ii*L' 
 ' Pi-o slavery Argument,' a book ])nblislied 
 
 at Charleston, ;i.S;; 
 Provision trade of Western States, '_'8.'!, 
 
 •.M<.) 
 
 Pumpkins, •27:i 
 Piuliken(old), llii 
 
 liiAniiv at St. Louis, :tlo 
 
 Quebec, .'irctic shells on terraces, 1">; 
 
iNi»r..\. 
 
 41';; 
 
 lit, l-JS; tiMiai'i' 
 
 ■it. .lolm's, 12;i; 
 miiil til Ncw- 
 
 r„ilii'iii|iir, 7"', Ti" 
 isciMil tiy Ml'. 
 
 t'.iriiiiiiK ailvcn- 
 if, '.".M,; above 
 
 1, ■:;•:( ; Carlisle, 
 
 Clii(Mj;:(i, L'Sl 
 
 lie Ihrlo'i, 4',* 
 ill tlie (listaiiee, 
 
 .'tun, •JUL' 
 » 
 
 linnk imlilistu'ii 
 Ml states, 'JS;i, 
 
 laiiilseMpf riiiiM i>|ilaiiatli;, •.';((); roek- 
 jiass at, '.'.'lit ; tlie Klsiinire of Caiiaila, 
 ■JH.'i ; iiiiiiieiisi' stoics of liiiilier at, •_'4'.'; 
 frozen ii|i ill winter, .ms 
 (iuiili Villi near St. John's, 14'); llsli-statjeM 
 at, Mil, Its 
 
 liAiiiiii's on linaiil steamer, llt'i 
 
 Kaee (Cajie), jiasseil witlioiit sceiiif! light, 
 
 :.! 
 Kaee at Loiiis\ilie liv two 7ie;.,'ioes, .'jOO, 
 
 :till 
 Kaeooli, II tame one, \<\\ 
 Rafts (woimI)oii Canailiaii rivers, 1:48 
 Itaiil on LexiiiLiton lailroail, .':.'i:i 
 Uaiileis (Aiiieiieaii) ill (anaila, •.'•J7 
 Uailroail from Halifax to Tinro, l.")4; 
 
 Cliiiajio ami St. Louis, ^;t'oloj,'ieal re i 
 
 liiaiUs, 'JSs 
 Hailway ears for Wdiiieii, jii.') 
 Itailways mi Hals, ailvaiitaj^es of, ."os I 
 
 Kain at' liiioiia Vista, 1 1 '> | 
 
 It.iili water, ileiiiiilatioii eanseil liy, since , 
 
 ilrift |ierioi|, .''.sS ■ 
 
 Kiisi'il liiaili or liar at l\iii^''s Cove, 77; 
 
 Henley Harliour, Inti; I'laeeiitia liav, [ 
 
 l.il 
 Haiseil heaeliesdf ImiiMers, Imliaii 1. -.la III, ' 
 
 !i'." ; .\merieaii Tiekle, 1(mi 
 Kanisay (I'lof), mi teiiaeetl reil I'litf in | 
 
 Straits iif lii'llri.sle, ;i'.m; j 
 
 Hai'i.l at ri\er St. Joliii, li'il ' 
 
 ' Uaiiid,' a mark to Keolo;^ist, -S-'Xi: effi'et | 
 
 on Ncssei, '.'IS; wiioilial't in mie, i-M'.t i 
 lias|ilieiiies in Newfoiiiiillaiiil, P-'Ji 
 Hat seen mi \oya;.'e, :i.'i 
 
 Hats fmiiiil ill Keiitileky ea\'es, .".!'. I ■ 
 
 [{easoiis wliv aiitlior visileil America, 'J!i, , 
 
 ;iii 
 
 Reliel, 'as sunn sliont a leb as a 'eooll,' •Jli'.l 
 Iteeiiiits ill America, a siieeimeii, liiej; 
 
 j^'ilanleil hy snlilicrs, -J'.is, :i(i(i j 
 
 Keil Hav, I.aliiailor, oliseivatimis maile 
 
 at, 107 , 
 
 Keefs iitf Newfi.niiillaiiii, II.-) I 
 
 Uefiaetimi iloiihlc) with a .secoiiil licet of | 
 
 invelteil lier.LZs, |o;i t 
 
 Heimlecr in Newfoiiiiillaiiii, Mi, Ml' I 
 
 Ueilnleer moss, cmiiitiy covered liy, 1(4; 
 
 aliseiice of, ;it Tmiliii^jiiet, 112 j 
 
 Kcilier ' i>artriil;,'e ' near St. John's, 127 
 Kemains on Kitiheii-midilciis, lo.'i ; 
 
 ftent in Nuwfmiiullanil imt very serious, , 
 
 1 •-'7 I 
 
 Ketiremellt (siulilen) of sea oil St. Shots ; 
 
 ami St. Mary's May, 111 
 Rhino wooil-tfoats nothing; to ihobt.' on , 
 
 Canailian rivers, i!ls ' 
 
 Rlioijuileiiilrmi, ;i4, 11.' 
 Uichaiilsmi's S|iriii;4 in Kentucky, :i4'> i 
 Itiehmonil railway aceiilent, i;'_'7 I 
 
 Riii,i;i! of mouiitains ainl the names of \ 
 
 their jieaks, 'Jo'.i 
 lii.se of laud at lead of L.ikf Ontario, ■_>:!:', 
 
 Itisiii),' (if eo.'iBt fioiii Ciipe Knee lo Cape 
 
 Harrison, s ; of l.alirador enast, 77, 7s 
 Hi\er, liieakin>,' ii|i of ice uii a river in 
 
 llndsiin's Hay, liis, it'.'.i 
 Ri\ei ice caiivin^; stones, I7ii; rock at 
 
 Ottawa ruin ,d liv, '.'in, -JIl 
 IJiMis in ( 'aiiada, 'J.'i.'i 
 Ri\er Hall, Kentucky, I'.li'i 
 RiMiletsmi White M.iuntaiii.s, -JM, •.'hi 
 Road, an alimiiinaMi' mie ; •.'Oii-*.'ii7 ; top 
 
 of Mollllt \Va.-.liin;,'tii||, -jini; to tup nf 
 
 lii>:liest peak of While Mmintaiiis, •.'iis ; 
 
 to M.immiith Cave, :'.'.l 
 Rolilieiie.s liy New York rowdies in train, 
 
 I'.i.'i 
 Rolii'i'ls (May), rock rising; mil of water, 77 
 ltiii-/i,.< M nil til II HI IS, Indian Island, 7'.'; 
 
 their ori^'iii, Hii 
 Roek of trap and limestone, with shells 
 
 oil it, •J:i7 ; semned liiij,'ht and smimth 
 
 liy ice, iCi ; steamer luimps mi. I.M 
 Rocks anion;,' While Mmmtains placarded 
 
 with hills, -j^jn, •j^jj 
 ' Itock in the j^rmind '— a talkiii;;- snldier, 
 
 ■jdii 
 Rock |i;i.ss at (.^in ee, •_'.i',i 
 Rocky Lake ice hmise, 4'J 
 Room for all Hie spare popiilalion ui 
 
 l';iiro]ic, -J!!,! 
 Roses (wild) and liliie hells at Toiilili'iuet , 
 
 111.' 
 
 S.Mii.K lsi..\sii, part of, washed away since 
 
 is-.'s, 7 
 Sa;4Uinay ;,'roii\e, h'.i". 
 Sail, niimlier of, uhieli ]iass a l.alirador 
 
 stalion, .ss 
 Sailors, Cells wmild lever make, 'J44 
 Saints' hay, dispeiisatimi In lish mi, 10'.» 
 Salmon at l.aiis a loiip, los: catch a small 
 
 one, 1:M ; plenty in upper puiid, Li.'i ; 
 
 I'ishery, Laliiadur, 7o 
 Salmmiiere, lirid;_'e at, i;;:! 
 Salt, ships caii\ im;, '.i.'i 
 Salt lakes of Rocky Mountains, remnants 
 
 of ancient inl tiid sea, hi 
 Saiid-licds dipjiiiij/ opposite ways, ;il8 
 Sandstone, laiL;e hlocks of, Iti.'i 
 Saiidiiskv, lioulders betueeii Chicago and, 
 
 :i',t4 
 Sandy beach rare in Labrador, SiJ 
 Sausages, a, joke abmil, at Chicago, •J8:i 
 Saw-mill at Monlnioieiiei the lai>,'est in 
 
 the world, •J4'.» 
 Scandinavia, New Hriiiiswiek ;,'i'atly re- 
 sembles, 171 
 Scaiidinavian system of Klaeicis, I'J 
 School treat near Chica^'o, •J7 I 
 Selioolniasler : a sportiiiK Newfiiiindlaiid 
 
 fine, b'i'i ; in ' Miiifhijniuni /■-'I'i'/,' his e.v: 
 
 lieiielice, 'Jii;) 
 Scotch farmer drawn I'm the war, '^'.'X, :io(i ; 
 
 mail and his foe in n stieet light, •J4.'t ; 
 
 woman, a Canadian and a Cuban, i;'27 
 
4--4 
 
 INhl.X. 
 
 JSciatuliliuiitiiiu iiliiiiit Niiigiira, - J'j ; ami Slims, ii.l\iiiil.i-i' nf lnoail -.nlfil slmcs in 
 
 shoiitiiiK' f'liMliiiii c|, '.'S" 
 
 Ni'Wli)imill.iiiil, 13(1 
 
 SciiptiTe, Siiiillicrii I'lipi.Ts f|iiciti', for Sl.oitcst iiihI ciisii'st w;iy oi" 
 .sliiVLTv now, in (.'ai'tjiiii Hawkins ilid ' Anii'iii'u, :in;; 
 
 i/iDssinn 
 
 ;kmj vt.Mi-H 
 
 !s:f 
 
 Sick 
 
 niiin, I '.'I 
 
 JSca, fict /.in^' ciT, (Vi ; a gnunl cjiu; oil' Nfw- | .Siilc sadillu pit, .'tl'i 
 l'c(nni|lani|, li'l; a liravv sra and the , iSii'iia (an Anniiraii), the Wliitc Munu 
 iMiats at C^niili Villi, 147 ; ci?i li rp ovrr t:iins. 
 
 (.'anaila, J;-! ; its |ii(pli;ililc> cdasl. 
 
 Sjiniian licinidc'is in rfnnhscot Hav, M 
 
 inaij-'in (an anciriit ), i>n .MonnI Wiishini; , Silver cnin and papiT ii'iits, isi 
 
 tun, •.'?■*, ni.ir;.'in (amiiiit), at (^ni'lirr, Silvi'r lux of |,al>radi>r a ).'irat iiri/.i', 7J 
 
 Z'tl ; marks ut anrient sia Icm! in I, alp- Sinkin;; nf ire, on tlic imiliali 
 
 rador, idi-., I'l; ictirinL' siiddeiiiv otl Skiti'li lunik, ad\aniai;i' nf tu a tourist, 
 
 y8 
 
 St. Shots, I II •-'.".,( 
 
 Suadioitoms (old) in N. Amtrifa, 'JT 
 Scai'ow, (dd skipper iiii tlin existence of, 
 
 I-.':. 
 Sfa sh lis found near Boston, -JS ; in drift 'Si-2-'M('> 
 
 Skippur(old I.nbrador), conversation with, 
 
 IJ'J 
 Slave hamleil over to militar\ autlioi ities, 
 
 neai t^nobei 
 
 I'C' ; 
 
 borders of Lake Slave trade rent the In 
 
 (-haniplain, 'JJ.'! ; i.t Miintrea', -'■'•'■i 
 
 lies from Spaii 
 
 and severed till.- Kn'^disli plantation 
 
 Sea -wan 
 
 rliy not nseil l>v tampers of statu of feelin;; aliont. 
 
 uiT 
 
 ;;i.s 
 
 Cape Breton, ll* 
 Seal islands, delivery of letter-lia^s. 
 Sealers frozen in oll"ronlini|net, ITi 
 
 Seals near 'i'oulini|net, lit ; pursuit of in i a cure for, til 
 
 Sl.ivery in Anieriea, instances of, SUS, 337 
 
 Slee)iin),'-ear on railroad. Ills 
 
 Smallpox, root of Indian cup said to Im 
 
 M.ir. 
 
 and whale, lioiies of, found , Smoothed rocks, 7 ; action of si;a-ice, 107 
 
 near .Montieal, 
 Seal vats at S . Johns, 119 
 Sealin;; vessels lost in the ice otf Toulii 
 
 gnet, (Vi 
 Seats in railway trains in I.'. S., I'.i.'i 
 
 Snipe and woodcock at Wilndn^'ton, '2'.Ki 
 Snow, depth of, in Lalirailor, 74 ; amount 
 of water produceil hy damp and dry 
 snow, 171 ; wreath in Tnckerman's 
 ravine, 21.') 
 
 Sentries with fixed bayonets over ' drawn ' Snowdon, bed of arctic shells on, 4 ; an- 
 
 men, -Jiis 
 
 cient sea beaiMi, 
 
 8cij;e:int KU.'irdinji British interests nt lla- i Soil of Labrador, 74 
 
 miltoii 
 Sermon in Labrador, l(i\ lOft 
 
 Solar system, supposed change in teni 
 licrature of, 'Jk 
 
 Settler in Aneiiia learns he is one of thi' ' .Soldiers (American), familiarity of oflicers 
 
 sovereign i)eo|ile, L'Ul 
 Settlers at Chicago, ehielly Kumpeans, 
 
 •J.S.'i 
 
 Shallow to a fair picture, war-draft, 29(3, 
 
 and men, l',".i ; at St. Louis, .•il.'i, .'il4 ; 
 
 on steamer goin 
 
 ' down Ohio to Sher- 
 
 man, ;i(io 
 
 Sol 
 
 ilier 
 
 with, 2i; 
 
 s Federal), wounded, one met 
 
 Shallowing of the sea olf Newfoundland, 7 i Sound, peculiar elankiti;., sound on Am 
 Shapes (strange) of icebergs, yo 
 
 Shelbourne, shingle Hats, I'.iS 
 
 Sludls, rarity of, on icy coasts, >V2 ; a lesson 
 to geologists of old drift, li:); none found 
 in teri-aces at (ioiliam, 217; (arct'c) at 
 (»ttawa and C^iieliee, l,"i ; and other 
 ]iarts of X. America, 17 ; arctic, at great 
 elevations in weslein Knrope, -i ; fresh- 
 water, in bed of giavel at Wliillpool, 
 Nia.gara, 2')ii ; among sand, a scandi for. 
 
 iican railways, 22i 
 Son]) ni;ide of tail of lieaver, 1 1 1 
 Source of Mississippi, height of, above sea, 
 
 ;i()2 
 
 Spain and Yankee land, contrasts, 1S2-1S4 
 Spaniard, a surgeon, enthusiastic over 
 
 oiieratioiis, 2'.4 
 Spear (t'aiie), character of coast about, 62 
 Spittoons in railway trains, l!);f 
 Splitting lisli on Labrador coast, 88, S9 
 IM) ; (land and fresh w.ilei), in terraced j Spoor of arctic cnricnt, si 
 ]dain.s at Indianaiiolis ; (marine, in j Spooring of icebergs,,'); for ice move 
 New Brunswick, ]iroving it was once | ments by rail, ll'S, 22'! 
 submerged ; identical with l^abrador Sportsmen (Knglish), watching for water 
 species found near Montrcil. etc., 2114 i bull, 12',i 
 Sherman's advance to Atalanta, kind of ] Spring llill at ?'reilericton, ir.r, 
 eo lUtry, 'A'lo ; helped out of a mess by ; Spruce buslu's attectcd by wiinl, SO; in 
 his foe's, ij.'iS, :i."iO " I Ncwfiiundland, 12S 
 
 Ship Harbour, ob.>ervntions nt, lo2 * S(]uaws (C/ipe Breton), mak.ng baskets, 
 
 shipsdragged overland by Norse worthies, j 40 ; (Indian), in ("anada, 2li"> 
 304 Squirrel.'^, tame, flying and ground. liU 
 
 • '■ 
 
; .■jolcil sli'ic's III 
 ly 111" (.iDsfiiiit; 
 
 ■ Wliito Muuu 
 
 ivcrsution witli, 
 
 aiy uutliiiiitics, 
 
 iis fi'iiii Spam 
 ilaiil;iliuiis,:i71 ; 
 :i7, :;;is 
 iicfS of, ;!;to, 337 
 
 i ('11)1 saicl to Im 
 
 I cif M^a-ii'i', li>7 
 illllill;.'tiili, ■J'.i.'i 
 
 liir, 74 ; aiiiiiiiiit 
 ilaiMp ami 'try 
 
 II ■ruckcniian's 
 
 ifUs on, 4 ; an 
 
 'lianf-'i! in teiii 
 liaritv of oflit ois 
 
 ,()uis, :ii;i, ;iU ; 
 (»hio to Sher- 
 
 uli'il, one nift 
 
 Isouiiil on Anie 
 
 ■1, 1 tl 
 
 lit of, aliovc sea, 
 
 liitvasts. 1S2-1S1 
 liM>iastic over 
 
 I'oast alMjut, 6- 
 
 (coast, 88, S9 
 
 |f(ii' ice move 
 
 |iiiii>,' for water 
 
 Ik.ii:,' baskets, 
 
 INl'KX. 
 
 425 
 
 SliilTordsliire, cniHitry li'^i'iiililtii^', |m;i Slnif liH|)ey at (iiiei n'.s siatc-lmll in isi'i, 
 
 8l»^;e, a Yatikii cue at (ioiliaiii, •.'ntl-Jiis ; ;(,'il ; in Maiiilliotli l'a\c, :!.']:i 
 
 I'oai'li, u ( iiiioiw line in Nova Sc.itia, Stiiaiiis, t nM ami waim, cio.ssiil in the 
 
 i: 
 
 ctlect on ^ta;;iiit.', ;!;;'.• 
 Stnlactites in .Manuimtli eavi 
 Wliiic's lavc, :iM 
 
 (liiviroii arnic.l lianiN, ami tlieir l'.iiio|.,i, I'.o 
 
 SIri els I't C'liicaj;ii, •.'77 
 
 il ; in Stiie (^laciai) on lulls in Mritisli isliimls, 
 their );eneriil iliici'tinn, 4 ; must li< 
 
 Stand liy,' what it nieniit in I.aln.-elor, : iiimie in ileep water, 7f.: on rocks at 
 
 Star-chamlier in cave in Kentucky, mi\>- 
 
 |iosc 
 
 ll 
 
 its Ml, ;i'io 
 
 I'ortliiml, Ihi ; mi White Mountains, 
 
 Striation, iiartlal, oi' i ks at Ott, 
 
 Stalc-riMiiii on hoanl Yankee steamer, I7t'. .•>! Si 
 
 Steainlioats, Aineiica Mii;.'lit ti'ach liiitain Siilinicij^inu' "( N. At 
 
 \va, L'll 
 ■iirretif causes wreck:^ :\i, I In 
 
 ll 
 
 lliolit, I'.ej 
 
 steamer to I'reiliiictnn, a neat, clean, ami 
 
 iiciica, proofs of an 
 cieiit, 14 111; of pari of New lininswick, 
 17.! 
 
 fast one, ir.u; ;i Viillkee one, 17tM77; Sulistitule, a liajipy one, 'J'.i" 
 
 Mieiieial lliieir on (»liio, :u\'i ; from Siilitenanean i a\e, a walk in, .'U7 ."..M 
 
 ScotlamI, arrival of, at St. .lohn's, l.")0; 
 
 ' SiifKcstioii,' plienomeii.i nf liiiilcj,'y, nies 
 
 how traiis|M)rteil liy .Minnesntaiis, ,';ii.'t ! nierism, etc., attrilmteil ti 
 Steamers run once a fortiii;:lit run ml Ninth ] Summer, a very coliI one, I'lii ; (I.ahrailur 
 
 Cape, Norway, I'Jl ; on Missi.ssipi'i shot enil of, resni't of llshermen, 1-Jl 
 
 nt, .'lOi'i, .'117 
 Steam whistle l.hcvii, IP.', IJO 
 Stcji (lirst), oil llrsi liirei;;ii shore, |S2 
 
 Mill s lie 
 
 It, how it allccteil l.asalt hill on 
 
 which ;i Chilian oh- erv.itm v 
 :t4 
 
 was place. 
 
 Stewanl on lioarl the 'Ariel,' 117, ll>< | Sunrise, a spleiiiliil one, isj 
 Slewaiils ami stew.'-ilesses on huaiil i Sunset, a iu,i;.'iiiliceiit one, isl 
 
 Vankee steamer, 17(1 
 St. Francis (Caiic), 51 
 St. Francis Marhoiir, Lahrailor, 70; risin.;,' ' Surface^:eoliij.'y, lljtehcock on. 
 
 ilours 
 at I'.irlisle, .•117; (lillcrenees lietweeii 
 l';nro| can ami AmeiieMii, ;!I7 :iis 
 
 )f coast t hen 
 Sliekhuutint,' in womls at Nianara, 'J'.s 
 
 Survey of a liiiye coiintrv, how to tak 
 
 'lie in a short tin' 
 
 .'•J'.i 
 
 Si John, New nruii>wick, iee^;rooves Siisiiciisioii hi i'u'e, St. .lohn, New Bruiis- 
 near, l.'iO ; New Hrmiswick, 174, 17.j ; | wick, 174; Nia;;ara, liouhler at, •J'J5 
 
 (river). New Hrunswiik, liU 
 
 St. .lohu' 
 
 irk 
 
 L'nalliill, .'>3; 
 
 I Susqllch 11111,1, lal;,'c stones ill valley, pro 
 
 h.'ilil 
 
 e source I 
 
 f, :i'.ifl 
 
 ru 
 
 laiul rising;, .'i4 ; chuich to lie built at, Swallow fail co.'it at f.onisvilh', ;!;in 
 means of raising; fuiiils, biit; 'the very , Swear, American wlialeis swear more than 
 cream ainl lop nil ' of, on boai'1 'Ariel,' i Kn;:lish, l'7o 
 
 b.'l ; NewfoiiuillaiKl, 1J4 ; loekn at Swearitii,', luevalence of, in .Vmerica, 
 lidithouse, iL'.') ; ice .-it, l^Jtl; ]io]iiilatiun ! Syilmy, Cape lireton, .17, |:,i ; Im,ii| 
 of, houses of. jioit, bl'.t I oil tile beach, l.'cj, l.'i.'! 
 
 St. Lawrence (Jiilf of , rise of tiilc in, 4."i ' 
 
 St. Lawrence (river), closeil in wii.ter, Taii, of beaver makes ;,'ooil souji, ] tl 
 
 171 ; from .Montre.il .Mount lo 
 
 strait. 
 
 rapuls o 
 
 f, 'j:;.; 
 
 on banks of, 'jr. 
 St. Louis on Mississijipi, iceberg's followed 
 
 to 
 
 j(il ; hotel at, ;to4 ; news am 
 
 like a 'raniiiiL,' of .Vmcricaii autocrats, •_'o:t 
 imlseajie 'I'arabh risj.'e, or w.itei-bull of Celts, 1-JO 
 'Tarberf of Scotch sen loclis, ilrift )e 
 I'd semblin^:, 'J14 ; IJruce takes sliiji over 
 ll- i one, :io4 
 
 dier.s at, iiUfl ; chief coiiiiucree of, :!(i7 ; ; Tele;.'rapli on Norweejan coast, liil 
 situation of, .'llil»; iron factoiy uiulforti- , 'reniiscouata (Lake), li 
 lications, :(i;{ 
 
 'reiiipeiatiire of Kentucky eaves, 34.S; 
 (.iil.iptcil mean), from im'o to |sr,i, .tii.'i; 
 
 of water 
 
 It New \< 
 
 i| k (see t,l 
 
 bible .'it 
 
 It end) 
 
 Stone inijileiiieiits of Indiatis, lO.'i 
 
 Stones brought by icebcr}.'s in spring:, lo' 
 few at St. Fjouis, :!|o; (loose), on Mount Teiapin 'I'ower, Ni;i;;,ira, fallen elill at, :;.'■!> 
 WashinLTlon, aiij-'ular anil natives above ; Ten.'icpil ami ^'l.aciateil cuuntry on St 
 3000 
 
 ■t, -Jbl ; lifted by ber^s when 
 thev turn over, SI ; on ber^s in Stiait,- 
 
 .Tohn Itiver, New lininswick, Itl 
 rock above Catskill vlllaL'e, :'.'.<'i 
 
 if Helleisle, 111 ; carried bv river-ice, ; Ternicis alon;,' the coast of Chili, .'14 
 
 70; 
 
 ieeberjis. 
 
 lioiiped by iceberg,'.'!, 73 ; stones on I Mount Washintrton, 'Jl.'i; at Gorhaii 
 
 HI 
 
 Storm of rain and li'^'htnin^ 
 
 Vista, ll.T 
 Story of the ' watcr-eow,' 130 
 Stove.s in raihvav trains, l'.i3 
 
 'JI7; round St. L.awrence fiasin, L':i 
 itT Buona i Thomson's Fall, White Mountains, L'lC 
 
 Thousand Ish 
 
 if Lake Ontario, 23.s 
 
 ' Tieket-of lea\e man,' a piny at Chicago, 
 
 2sr, 
 
420 
 
 INItKN. 
 
 J*".* 
 
 Tiilt' of Windsor, May of KuihIv, 4.1 ; rU 
 illK <>(, ill si'iilicil, II ; till' lii;.'iirst ill till' 
 Wnllil, l.'ili 
 
 Tiih's ill Stijiils uf Il.'lli'isl.', Ijii 
 TiiiiluT, WMHtrfiil liimiiii^' 111', ill N. IIhiiih- 
 wii'k, I7:i; tlmits on ('Miiniliim risri'H, 
 
 •J'JS 
 
 Tiiiii' (Ki'"Ii';;lriil) iiiciiHtircil liv Mii^'iiiii 
 
 ImIIh, I'.'iS 
 'TiiiH's' ('iiiri'.s|iiiii(|i'iit luri'-'tiil at Wil- 
 
 iiiiii;:lii|i, L".''J 
 Till I'liiiri'li .s|iii('s ill Caiiaila, 'JIT 
 TiiliaiTii laiM'il ill prill' in L'. S. , I Mi 
 ToIi'iIm, Imicls lull ;il, '.'71 
 ^'|ll)^>ail, Ni'wImiiihII.iiiiI, railiis ;it, I'J.S 
 ' T'lpsv,' a (•lianiiiii;4 mit' in piny nt 
 
 ( 'liii'MKi', ->>•■' 
 'I'm- iiiij 111' riai'i'iit ia li.'iy, I."-' 
 'rmiintii, iiiij liKtiaii town, 'J.'ii) ; llic 
 
 iiiimIi'iii mil', '.''il 
 'I'lMiliii;.'!!!'!, Hialiii;: vi'ssrls lust ulY, lil ; 
 
 I'lllll'i'll lillilt nil rt/Kni lirai'll, T'^ , liMlil 
 
 srapr MTii ri'.iiii I'lll at, IIJ; scali'is 
 
 l'i'i>;{(>ii in, I l.'t 
 Tmirist to Wliitc Mmintains, '.'iiS, •JnO; 
 
 (Aiiifiiiaii), ili'srriptioii of, L''.'l ; nut on 
 
 (Joat Islanil, •-'.■|"» 
 Town iili' ill Canaila, 'JIT 
 Tiai'U tliioM'.'h Niwfouiiillanil lovcst, i:iii 
 Tram, a VanUi'r, I'.i'J I'.'l; liirakiii^' ijowii 
 
 on (iraml Tniiik, ilisailvaiita^rs of, 'J'Jii 
 Trail to taki' lira\i'rs in, HI 
 Travi'lli'raiiil iiis lii;.'^;agi; in Anicricn, 1!>0, 
 
 ml 
 
 Travelling,' in Laluailor, 71 
 
 Tirasiii'i.' ui'ckiT anil liis ilivinin^ roil, 
 
 ,'iii, .'iT ; tii'Msiirc foiiuil, 'iS 
 Tri't's in llii' inti'iior of Lalmiilor, 71, 71 ; 
 
 K'ri wiii^: tliirkly in Ni'wfoniiiilanii, lu:!; 
 
 in slii'i'ls of rmtlanil, isii, on Mount 
 
 V\'asliiiij;toii, lMi.'; at Itiillalo mark jui'- 
 
 vailing' liiiirtioii of wiinl, •Jtii'i. 
 Trowi'l usiil in liiiililin^,' .Ski'.ryvorc 
 
 li:,'litlioiisf, l(i:i 
 Tiifki'iniaii's IJaviiie, Wliiti' .Mointuiiis, 
 
 •Jir. 
 Turnips iuhI iiotatofs i,'row at bottom 
 
 of Sanilwii'li May, S7 
 TwiUinjii't (Hce Toulingurt) 
 
 ' I'r.i.Y* lot of ilrawii men, "JfiS 
 
 I'mliral or larlionilVrnns limestone nt St. 
 
 Louis, :\\ 
 ' I'liele 'I'oiii ' aeteil at ('lii('a;,'o, L'.'^.'i 
 Cniteil Stales, first iilantint; of aiitlior's 
 
 foot on soil .'I', 17'.' 
 
 'Vai.lkv'— of oM worlil traveller nml 
 
 .Viiieriean very «'itlerent, ^I'^'i 
 Vevi.'tation at Tiinlint,'Ui t, (VI ; Labiailor, 
 
 74 : about Henley Haibonr, l.abrailor, 
 
 inf.; of Newfoiiiiillaiiil, l.'!.'! 
 V. iiison Tiekle, I-alirailor, 7.'>, 101 
 
 Venison, e\ery serajt I f, earrieil away in 
 
 NiwIiMinillaml, I I'J 
 \'i ntilalioii oi Ki iitueky eaves, .'ll.s 
 \. speitilie or eailitiiilleloiis liiiu >tii|ie at 
 
 St l.oiiis. ;tll 
 Ve.-iseU erilKlieil ami wieikeil alimnK'^t 
 
 iee, ll:i 
 View of I.Mbrailol' linm top of lliilillll 
 
 IslamI, Ml 
 \'i).'o, autlmr's laieliHK "I. eniiipaied with 
 
 lamliii).' at i'oillanil, IS'.' 
 N'oeMliiiiary fi'otii an liiili.iii on bonnl 
 
 stealiiei, 111'.', It;:; 
 Note I'ni' l.ilirojii 111 M'l.ellan'.' 'JiIS 
 
 W m;Ks paid in paper, I,s7 
 
 ' Walnliiei,' euil;^el for, flolii Niii'.'aia 
 
 W Is, -JV't 
 
 Wamleiin;; animals, men are I :;ss 
 W.iiiloii killiii;; of ileer leplobatiil in New 
 
 toiinillaiiil. I I'-' 
 War in Ameiji.i, elian'.re of bearing' in 
 
 tllose en;,'a;,'i'i| in it, L'nil, 'Jdl; ihalt, II 
 
 dark >li,ido\v, '.".m;, •j;i7 ; end of Yankee, 
 .';'i!t: Hews, ;iL'l, .'i'J'j ; priees, i.s'i; fiiiiml 
 by Irislinieii to be iiiipleasant, l.sr. ; 
 tiaeesofat i'lastport, Imi; al i'ortlaiid, 
 Is.'!; Irai'i s of, ;):;:(; wluit is tlie I'.insc 
 of the'.' :;l".' ; eaiise deeper nml darker 
 than ever, ,'i:;.'i ; Yankee asks atitlior foi' 
 liis o|>iiiioii about tliL war ,'iiiil ;jets it, 
 ;!4(i 
 
 Waricii (.Mr.), a liiturer on Labrador, .S7 ; 
 e\traels Iroiii Journal, ss 
 
 W.'isliinu'tol; ((ieo|>:e), liis name need imt 
 be ^;iM'ii to a liiouiit.'iin, •_'!•_' 
 
 Wasliiii.utiui (Mount I, its liei^jlit, (1 ; drift 
 and striie on, 17; water-marks on, 'J.') ; 
 visible from hill near I'ortlnnd, ISS; 
 road to summit of, -juii; why so called, 
 •.!(!!'; /ones as you aseeiid, -Jl'-J, 'Jb'i 
 
 Wairroii board 'Ariel,' IlM ; at St. Louis 
 hotel, very muddx, 305; (net ion of), evi- 
 dences, llLS 
 
 W.itcr bull, Cidtie i>opuIatioii of Uritisli 
 Islands belii \e ill the existence of, I'J'.i ; 
 and in Iceland, i;;(i 
 
 Water line at Ottawa, --'40 
 
 Water lily(yelhiw), in Ncwfoiiiidlaml, 1:;;; ; 
 root eaten by beavers. Ills, U(i 
 
 Water-marks near Mount Wasliintifcn, 
 .I.'ickson, on, •_'.') 
 
 Watcislicd. Nnv.'i Seoti.'i, l.V); of St. Liiw- 
 reiicc and Mississipjii, L'ss ; of Ohio and 
 St. Lawrence, boulders on, ;:'.'l 
 
 W'atcr Work, country between 'I'oledo and 
 Cliica^jo, i.'7--' : neardoat Island, '-'.'..s 
 
 W.'iler Worn limestone, Chicago and SI. 
 Louis railroad, 'jsit 
 
 Weasels in Newfoundland wise and 
 vicious, 114 
 
 Weather otV Newfoundland, 1 l4;(Kn-lislO, 
 in .llUie, .Inly, Allt,'list, Se|itcmber, Oc- 
 tober, and November, ;il»!», 401 
 
INKKX. 
 
 IL'" 
 
 riliriril llWliy ill 
 
 •MVi'H, ;ilH 
 
 illH Hint stnlK' III 
 
 I'i'ki'cl iiiiiiiiiK'^l 
 
 |o|i of lliillali 
 
 , iiiiii|iMH'il Willi 
 
 > 
 
 iiliiiii on Ixianl 
 lliin'.' 'jr.S 
 
 , frniii Niiisriini 
 
 Mir ! ."NS 
 iinlmtiil ill Niw 
 
 • 111' 1 It'll lili;,' ill 
 It, •Jill ; iliiilt, a 
 (•ml nl' Yiiiii%ri', 
 ■icts, js'i ; rmiiKl 
 ii|ilia>aiit, iMi : 
 Ml ; at rnrtiaml, 
 lat iH till' I'aiisi' 
 ■|ii'r ami ilaikrr 
 ' ii^ks aiillmr fur 
 war iuhI iivtn it, 
 
 T.aliiiiiliir, S7 ; 
 
 laiNi' lifi'il lii't 
 
 I -J 
 
 •ij,'lil, <•. ; ilrift 
 -marks mi, '.'.'> ; 
 J'cMtlnmi, iss; 
 
 wliv s(i calli'il, 
 
 al St. I.oiiis 
 (ailitiii (if), i'\ i- 
 
 tiiiii iif Urilisli 
 
 istclii-r 111', 1-".' ; 
 
 \Vi'iitlii'rint» iif viiik '*iirf;i"'i'H Im'Iwi'i'm Wljjrwiinii nf Mli'iiiai- liiiliaiit, IiI 
 
 uHvilli' ami I 'av>' ( 'il\ , :;il 
 
 \Vilmiii;.'fiiii, ' iiilliii::'"ir |iiairn', •.".'H; livi-i 
 
 Wli.ilf, Imhich lit', riiMii'l III "ir Mmil nvil aiiij al , •.".•! ; a t'a-dilniialiii' ii'snil, •.".•■.' ; li>>|i'| 
 ill Vi'iimuit, \:> , liiiiml in IhiU iin ticl kii'|iir al, a mral nIiuI, •Jii:i 
 
 alxiM' I. lUi' ('liam|ilaiti, 'Jit 
 Wliali s Miiiiuiiii:,', III 
 
 Wiiiil (|iii'Vailiii.;) imlirali'ij liv irrnulli lit' 
 si.iiiii', sii; arN >lit;lilly mi irilMii.'M, 
 
 Wliail 111 |iiiii' lii^rs ilrstiiiyi'il liy liay ill', lnj. at lliillaln, |i|rNailiii;i ilinilinii 
 
 |- 
 
 WliiiU ill railway larria^'i's, r.i.'l 
 Wliilk-. al (iiiTii's I'miil, I'll 
 
 lIMlklil tl.\ IllTH, -.'liii 
 
 WiiiiNm-, Suva Si'iilia, t.' ; jilaiii i.f ininl 
 w lull tiili' i'< iiiit, i: 
 
 Wlilrlwiml, a rniistaiil uiir, lirliinij Ma Wiiini'in';,' ( j.aki'), sliaiinT nii, ::iil 
 
 Kara I'alU, 
 
 W 
 
 iiii'iii mi 
 
 lail 
 
 Wliiilj I, .NiaKiini, siiclls fiiuinl in ln'ijnl ihc ihu'IIH', ;:|'.i 
 
 suViil 
 
 li\ I'laiiii' aluaij 
 
 >.'iav 
 
 •I, 
 
 Wliili' Mmiiitains iif Nmtli Aiiiriira, lii-'li Wumli 
 
 Wminn, iail\va\ rars fur, lli'i 
 
 it Wiiiiiiii^'lmi, 'Ju:! 
 
 t'st |iiiiiit, <i ; ^'ra\rl liiiU ainl nllii'i' Wiimlrii liiiiMiii;,'-! in Laliiailm , lo'i • Iihiih 
 iiiark'i uf sia mi, IT; piak^^ naiiuil altii al 'l'iiiilin;^ui'i nii imk in sia, ll:t 
 
 Aini'i ii'aii I'i'li'liiitirM, 
 ■dills uf aiillim-'s visit li 
 
 ■SMlll 
 
 til ll\ liilllisis, •.'ll."i 
 
 in till' 'jliiis, I'.is ; mail ti 
 
 .'II I. -'ON 
 
 Wliili' KiM'r, iiitr\ aliuiil, .'ijs 
 
 Wliili's ('ii\r, aiii| its liiiiistniii' furina 
 
 til Ills, .'I'll 
 Wliiti'vvash liil! stirkin^' aiiimij^ Wliili' 
 
 Mminlains, •_'-.'ii 
 Willi L'lTsr, t\M> mi liiiaril, I hi 
 
 ,'ii';il Wiiml rails mi ( '.ihaili.in iiviih, JIS 
 lllUi'll : Wli'^lll (l»l Cll.lllis), ^'liiilr liiiiik In Kill 
 
 I mi tiirk\-, .;l I 
 
 Vankki; Nti'aiiiri, ilir aiillim's llisl, iTi'., 
 
 I 
 
 177; |iiirlrayi'il li.\ Mrs Tiiilinii 
 liii'ki'iis alti'iiil, 'Jill 
 
 III. I 
 
 XlilZ.Mi I'l'ltl' 
 
 Tin; KNIt. 
 
 i; (if St. Law 
 ■iS ; (if Oliiti and 
 111, .'111 I 
 iTli 'I'nlcilu ainl 
 
 Islainl, •-'.-.S 
 liicapi ami St. 
 
 rriiiliil liii it. ,t |{ fi.AiiK, i'.iliiihin-'jli. 
 
m 
 
88 Pkincks SruKET, 
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