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Les diagramme' suivants illustrent la mdthode. 1 2 3 4 5 6 \ \ \ ' KAMBLTNGS IN CALIl ORNI A u V ( c RAMBLINGS IN CALIFORNIA; CONTAIMNU A DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY, LIFE AT THE MINES, STATE OF SOCIETY, &o. INTERSPERSED WITH CIIARAOTERISTIO ANECDOTES, AND SKETCHES FROM LIFE, BEING THK FIVK YEARS' EXPEIIIENCK OF A GOLD DKiOKll. BY PRINGLE SHAW TORONTO: JAMES BAIN, 37 KING STREET EAST. T U R o V T • ''3 VO\OE .-^TRKKT. ER, PREFACE. In tlie goud old times, that is beforo a voyage round the world was a mere trip of pleasure, the adventurous traveller who then gave his experience of foreign lands, was a rarity, and his work might well serve as good authority for half a century to come ; and indeed, in such sleepy times, when ^ a hundred years performed but little change on a country or its people, the audacious scribbler who added another V(»lume of travels, on the same ground, might well be punished l)y neglect, fur his impertinent repetition of the threadbare theme. But now, great portion of the world are in a " fast" age, and in them more changes occur in twelve months, than in others in twice the number of years ; but in none that ever existed, has the hand of civilised man performed so much, in as short a space of time, as it has within the bounds of ibis mysterious land. This must be my best excuse, for attempting to add a new leaf to the many already published on California VI. J'HKJ'ACK. ''■'" ""•'■■'■• «'■« !'""« contain witl,i„ , „ "'oi.- n,a„„o,s, eu»t„,„. ,„,, '*'." ■^''^''•''» "• "-^ people, Jev.tod e..el„.,ivelv ,o ili„ ' ' '''" '"'' P"' '-^ -> eounto- offers a better field. ' '' "'^''^' ^b biisine,s.s i„ Califovr.ia w,. . i^ -•''-'- ... ou^nL J ',: 1:;:": 77. --"^ -y ''"■■«p-od :,, ilj;;j :'";'-"-'. '■.-«™u.. 'c, coupled for pryin« ' Produced )r the in- '•^pace, 1 eountrjr^ •^ people, ' part is r which n ; and y other tly my and if on, in 2t that ?n did ^ CONTENTS PART J. THE COUNTRY AND HER SOVEREIGNS ''"';, TART 11. THE MINES ,., • •\^^ TAKT ill. FACE OF TIfE (dl-NTRY, AGRICTETURE. AM) LAI!0[; :;• J AKT l\". ANECDOTES AND SKETCHES FROM LIFE i;;i How I Jl'MI'ki) a Claim 13 j A FiKLi) Okfickr 23- TiiK Si'K( ri.ATua 24., A Ti;ii' TO Til]: SoniiiMiN Mi.\k> ]4(, An Oi!at!0\ ,-., Tm: SiaciEuN's Rihk ,-- i. I ( -^■^ 181 ThK AuCTIONKi:ii jg , '^'^'"^ '...Z'.'ZZ. U.0 The VoYACib; Ij.,r, TllK Saltei! .,j^. SKIiASTlilM)!, IS TaKJ N 922 War IX China ,,0- - w 1 THE CONCLCSIoN # I KAMBLINGS IN CALIFORNIA. PART I. THK COUNTI{V AND HER SOVEREIGNS. It comes not, properly, witliin the limits of these j^kotches, to dwell upon the wouders of that half-way land — the Istlmuis of Panama — whose torrid scenes, so start- ling, novel, and gorgeous, so utterly at variance with the panorama of his native land, enchain at once the imagi- nation of the fresh voyager from the temperate zone, and leave an impression that after years can hardly erase. These have long since been delineated by able and truth- ful pens; though much still remains unsaid of Chngres. its harbor, and its people, its densely wooded hills, and dismal feverish vallies, the grim dismantled fortress of San Lorenzo, rising in solemn, though burlesque majesty, as the protector of the mongrel native population at its base, — of the white man's shelly camp right opposite, sus- tained in those by-gone days by the Californian emigra- tion, and the indiscriminate abode or shelter of speculators, blacklegs and boatmen,— of native beggars, with leprous skins and jiggery feet,— of the long, tedious row, up the B liiffti-'::: JO lUMBUNliS I.N- <ALI1-0P..MA. <^l »n,l .I„..^„.h ,,tr.„„, j,„j,,„^j -and .1., „n ciaWished «„o-vario<l o.,ly In- ut "fh '«-<:,.._ when nnpojoj ia thoir „r„,re.s, by tl o rcT f 3 r'uiec.,soi.s-,.f parrots and parror.ucttes scrcm . ^^^"'^"^ ^»^J tlic ehutterin- of the «„,(!,, while no* ,, zophjr'.s ri„i„n stir, amidst th^ gross , ,.o™ vo„ot.i„„ of the i,„„e„ot™ble t -o coci , ; ''' '"'""'^ "f '■™'>ecile pre- « -.Itl., t t lly „„ada,„o,i to thoi,. antoccdents, or tboir present abtl.ty, aud indeed we ,„i.l„ safciv add race w]^u.h ,% • ^ ^ »ai^iy aaa. tiieir race Ml„ h ,. ,iu,st now a disagreeable medley of red black, and dirty white —of n>o i . . "^ ' boo huts of r.,. \ '^•^' '^''^' ^""^'^ ^^'^^ '-'^^J"- hut.s of Gorgona, where a - five " eouhl .careely nrocur.. a -eagre lunch of mould, biscuit and jerjte; f'IiUiltl\o lll(tlint;Mn frir.l- ]r,., T . 1 -1.1. .Ill nacJv Jeadnii; to the wr^f^vi, and it !'ivr fi, , ? , , , '^ \\c.'-tern ocean, "-..... <-a;on'ba.;::,::r.r;^::::^jrr''" and windows .re dispensed v-^f> ^ ' ;;^'e''^ <^'or.s --™...v-.be. .Ls.;t :;:;;::;:;: ;::,j^; *' "^^■"' '••^^ ^^'^ r-und.—where table.s are of I W ilAMBLlNGS IN CALIFORNIA. 11 tly by rcpub- ■eaking ditty, J^J uncouth ' tJiG acres of Clients of our ttcs, scrcain- n-ied by the latterinir of sun blaziuf o amidst the forcst,—of I' of inertia ibecile prc- c eoniniou- s, or tlieir athl; tiicir ey of red, i the baui- 'h procure beef, — of ck; on the 'I'll ocean, I'anajjui, niULio tiie 'Ore door.s ion is a (Hvded by xodus, — .sing all ies staud ailed by 3.S are of M stone and canoes of mahogany, and where clean water is worth sixpence a glass. These sights and sounds are even now fast fading before another, I may not say a better era; and many an inter- esting relic of Panama's acadian days must die unnoted through the continued stream of strangers, and the unwel- come innovation of the iron horse. I too must bid adieu to it, and transport my reader at once through the peaceful waves of the Pacific, and safely land him on the shores of California, where a new panorama, unexampled in history, soon obliterates all the minor incidents of the journey. Perhaps no country, in her dawning efforts of existence, ever moie suddenly or successfully leaped into life, or started on a more propitious career, than California; pre- destined, as she certainly seems to be, with her twin sister Australia, to wake to life and develop the long slumber- ing energies of a hemisphere, every way capable of sup- porting tlu'ir millions of intelligent and taught beings. The full blaze of the nineteenth century has shed its clear light upon her priujary exertions ; the lustre of improved science i.-^ able and willing to guide her every power of invention or appropriation, while no antiquated prejudice of political or religious bigotry, ur ancient animosity of locai classes need be any obstacle in her onward course. lOvery nation, not only of Christendoni, but we may say the universo, has tendered its quota of youth, determina- tion and talent ; her mineral, agricultural and commercial attributes stand unri^alled, and her prominent position on the map as an invincible operator for good or evil on the Pacific's countless legions of barbaric tribes, gives her an influence, which if riabtlv annroTtriated, nr.\y allow her supremacy for centui'ies to come. All these have, of •vAMj:i.I.\(, Ar.IFoRNj^ themselves, contributed state, suffi'3i Jating philosoph ><> iaj the loundation of ont to realize the day-dream of m a model ^ny a specu- Tlc «>° i" "'"" "'■^" ''^ '''"^'> '» "'-rd with to the ocfupatioii of (liose whn ,1 .li i . . subtler ael.l „f ,„of,„h ti " '" ''''"' '" ""' ":r t'::r '"t.^" r "-" '-- -^- ^ '" loss <.>.,c ,!,»„ ,|,e proli,„i„ari,... w„ulr hrt" ''"'^1 leai object, nnivorsailv: for monev i ) ' ' Y' . arc of too esscMti.) v.Jn. i. 7,' ' '""^ ^"''''^ of f..n , . "^' ^" ^'" ^-^-Pcnded for mevo freakB ot tancy, or m pleas „.r the ev nf t1, • Ti,; 1 X. . ^ ^"* '.^'- "t t!ie coririoissenr. I UAMULINOS IN CALlFOilNIA 13 'on of a model many a specu- O'lmllj fulfill y the iJiutlier'8 to accord with solution, and patience to ee for inspec- =0'^ and effect* rove in the ('ortain it ia voliiptuariea II the van of ig pointed to ignitude are il operation, have been It hyperbole, iHist be the itered upon. f' it a public the irrand 1' .uid time more froake Jcur. int for the iivc sprung I'nod aside ads graded he echoing in 4 '1 Tlio .-tafo of ih'- Pro.-s may ?crve a?; a valuable eritiTiou tu typifv the pro.-pority and uoiwral tastes of tlifi poople in iiioi^t cuiintrics — wl!'.'rf such a thijig exists — an-i as th(! ('alifoniia iicwsp;ipv;x. in nuineri'-al value, in (■oinparison to tlu; population, arc far alioail of ail o'tlicr State.--, so are thoy in .'Ml\';mce i.-f tlu'. ( liief |,ni-t in t;iste. diuiiitv and jud^iDenl. Many, f'l be sure, ;ire jiuerile and linie-stTAinu' tra.-li, niiide u;. of .-l-rii:;' and r!iildi.-b bravado, or v.-itli profuse selci-iii)!!-; from the '•y;ill('r kivored " ]r.ol;s i.f tiie Ned Huntline .-ehool. oriuimdly manufictiu'ed (u -uit the t;!:-tcs and cjipjieities of the iaetoy girls, or tin:' ••;ibie t .• read lolks" tliat i'nrin >ueh an iniportnnt item in the Xew England census. Hut as niaiiy incubi of t!ic .--a.nie trenViS liavc lon'r di.-^L-'ra.eed tiie older States — e^De^v room becom- ini: :«i/aa-ee — sonic liuve no doubt, to the superlative deiiuht of their more inteliiucnt readers, moved tlieir location t-> the I'a.eiiie shore, and Inflicted the euvsc of their jiresonee on t][o uiiibitunato gohl seekers. But it is a cross thcv are bound to cndur". and ii will no dou1>t be mitiiratcd in TI<'a- vcn's own ;;ood tiini\ San Francisco, at the jirescnt time, issues nu>re than thirty; most of them ton, are conducted by talent('<l iirMl disecrnip.ir men. and more than one. indeed, rcsondjlc iii their editnrials. the calm diuaiityand unflinch- ing imh^peiidence of such a pnpor as the London TlDia, than could be (wpeeted in an Americiui journal, devoted, as they te'o commonly are, to the vilest purposes of p^artv. and buuiul in all thinus to the beck uf the liiu'lie.-t bidder. But lierc, taste and education exist in a vcrv laru'e propor- tion, and as often are the properly of inoleskin as of bruad- clutli ; in consequence a proper reward has before been 2iven editors of a suuerior tone, who could thu« '!^-<^ b" '■ ' 'J the Ic'jitiniato proceed.^ of their intellectual labnr, witliout i; J u RAMIU.lMl.v iv t,ll.ll.',>.!.NIA. dceeuJi,,,, to ,1,0 ,lo,-|,i.a.Ie .ricl.s of .o.,lji„, ,,„j .„ff -ns ..uhv.cluuk, and lvi„„ ,„ „3e ,n,Ma. a. l.,.;. ^ pi- d tlici 1^- lo"t oyo„ „,„o„. ,|,e „„,,, ,■„„,„,,„, .„„, ,,^^ ^ '.c.r most ,e.,K.et.blo ...oln<.v,.,„oo,., i. ,„o ,l„„..oro,„ ,/ «. bout th,, d,,.u.^„„g aniflcial Mi,„ul„s. It ,„.„. '"<)«'l, a„ „u-«nt,ov.,rtil.l,. „..i„„i, with ,I,c,h: .atcr™ of body pol,„.-like n„ auto^.d-oao d„ ,„ „r„„i • o .'hL Wl. .1,.. couc-odc-l po,„t,, ,l,c ,„u,.l, ,.re,,„r .onvon e„c« .ccap,ta„„„ a ..li,,,,,. ,„„„,,„, ,„ „„„ „,, ,^ J; I'onnnoro Cooper, to ,vIh.,„ Atuori,..,,- ■„,. ,' indebted for provi,,.- t., ,be„ n, \ '""■''' eo.dd he r„. I n " '■■' """ •"' -\"'<^'if.->n book '■ "■""""' "•"'"■"••''' ''•>"■•- -■'•ti^.an.i eul .0 ,u„ a pertee, iitera.y ..auMtlet. be.ide. bein. arr ,,,„„ ,„,„^, ,„^^^ ..„„„„„„,,„^^,^ ^^.,,^ ,_. ,^ « uid aflord to l,e ,„.t to the ,„o,ives and aetion. of a b 1= o„e,t,v, w,tbo,.. deteriorating. ,>„„ .1,0 bonor of hi., ".Unc land „,„„en, at rare intervak«en:H,o .brow ■^^'"'^'■'"''"'^'•■"'^■^■U:.,:...„U,,.,, Z niiliviMble republie. Thi. unsafe sy.K.n „,■ ,ia,t,,-in,u ^ell-enee,„. is, to bo ^ ".-e, pronnncntly observable i„ ,bo IVifie IVe.ss, and i, -Uo bo wondered at, ,vb<n.eb„o.,b«tthoele,„„: t::: I ": ^"' ■"""*'''^- "-'-«' ""•■' '>'•• -oient '" '" ^-'■- '^''''■'" '"''-'''^ '•' ncfoni.m'o with their I liA\i;MN(J.S !\ (AI.IKOllMA. If) 'ing ;u)J puff, trgf. '> I'i'iic'uluu.ily •ind iinproju- tlio lustre of l;niocroii3 sya- '<--i)i lonccordl, ki-'loped quito (' tatlicrland, it seems, ^e caterers of .'piiblie, jKs a g; ovcrlook- (3' unhitppily (.'OMvcnienco .'I iimititude. <■ '•«> luuob icrlean book • critics, and f^i<Io8 being b bis Jearn- v'^ of fiction '(.•tidnf- of a lonor of hi^ d (o tbrow ''' "lit.' and . is, to bo ■es!<, and i« « (doineote bs^ ancient With their S ■I ;1 iVauclii.M' system, can mise ri barrier ugiiin.it tlvi f^ross fnaids and outrage,-* openly professed and practiced by ber tinic-r>crvin;;- and ini(juitou.s government, tbe I'ros.s will \no>t as>!u\dly be prominent, provi(K-d it retain tbe su- periority it biis ah'cndy obtained in advance of tbe sister States. It bas not been witbuut a n..(Vt-crrul stru-julo. tbat diuse pajicis ba\t: maintained tbeir iiuUipcndcnee and iVeedoai. M«»re tbnn one lias paid bis life for liis princi- ples, and soreral liave undergone tbe, unpleasant process of being c<)\vbided in tlndr s:inctun!s for telling tbe trutb unpolitely, and tbus lacerating tbe feelii;gsof certain tbin skinned gentlemen, t<;o (diivalrous to trust tbe redress of tbeir grievances to nn impartial jurv of tbeir (Mmntrvmen Tbe total population of tbe State, bas been estimated to range at tbe present time in tbe neigbl)orbood of .'iOO.OOO, allowing for tbe average increase since tbo census of '52; tbe incvea.se niostly accruing from tbe plains — as tbe dif- ference between tlepartures and arrival, by tbo ocean steamers is luit trifling, tbougb leaving a small balance- mostly of tbe fair sex — in favor of tbe countrv. Tb<^ ligures in tbe census, were, probably, as near tbe trutb a,4 could be expected ; but, bowever, no great dependence can be placed in thy' official returns, wben we consider tbe extremely fre*; .and easy manncf. in wV.ieb a lar'^o portion oi" tin- p, ople fancy to exist. Tbousands arc literally b.nneless. Largo bodies of miners keep in per- j.ctual motinn from bar to guleb. and guleb to canon, in pursuit of variety, or paying dirt. (.)tlicrs are out career- ing on ilie boundle.-s prairies, in jmrsuit of game, leaving no better luilf at borne, to provide tlie :i].},licant witb tbe recjuisite information. Orlwv.M i,u^ a^^ c.-.,t.-,>f,, j ,... ran^bes. fur ofT in secluded vdliey. tl 'ir wIi^reaboutH a ii; llAMBLI\(;s IN CAI.il OllNiA. ■".v.«tor3. ,„ .„, ,„,, u,e,„,Hlvo., or . oha,,.-,. ,v...,,Wvr wi,„ .-■--."....Ihlv „s„, ,„ „„„.. „„„, ,, ,^„. I „ ,■ -^V- ;--m,, t,,i., ,h. pn:,v,.n,ial vn..,i,v .„,,k4 t^ '•"^ •' tiiitvlv and ilK^'al l,ri).,. i.' ,. ■ . ' ,-'^'<u.! ii,h iu tncron.-us. worearonunf...] r ,. ;, 1"^.. .1.1,0,1,; ,„,L , |,.|. ,.,,„|,| I . <^^'^v „„o, „]„,„ it i, ,^, ., ■;" '•" *' '" ■- "'^ "^ 1- .-^.l-cod iV„,„. Alk., ti,c. oi.i.e„., l,„li,,„ -K g.n,,e,..,, or Ar,.u.,, o,.i,i,, ,,,,„„,„„, ^^..;, ; ; -,«,.,.,. oo,.„„„,p.,U,B,,,v tho ex.,.e,„e ^ i; '':~''''l' ''■-■"■ -'■■-10- «.. 1.0 1, ■,,o..,l.u-;.i,o„ti,...„-,,,, plOXlOM. ''•■ l"-'""'"iuato. Tl,o r',.o„ol,. „iso, to,-,, ,„ ."''^"'-" |,„bi, I • ■'" '•'l'>.i"Jlu-r.. liiuol, lo ti,oir„w„ I' b..lk ot tl,o,„, ,„ <.o„se,|„c.„oo, 01,00.0 Umn. for ,|.eir <lwo ling plaoos, „horo ,,n oxi.tonoo ,„nv bo piokod „, b ^■"""' ""■ """"''•' ''"'l totally „,or,opoli.o,i (1,0 -4 -». i!.^^ll^],l^^.> IN (A 1,1 KOI? N I A . 17 (•^' wajfaror who '- "'Je the hoards Jitary mountain i'xeo],t in their ^ui( of ".i'ruL," ty ;ui(l oaroh'-.-- offiei'tls. roniJcr lii^'h to ,'pri)i a ■'■'t L'Mvcnniicnt JiH'iir, by means •■^1 t'ormiii^i t];o •I' in -,[ .separate tlic'ir )-c5;t)oc- 'J tar fn.rn an i'o<rineous olc- i>'-^''is, .Indian^ hccn honoroi] ^'"omc facility -hout iuiporti- ■r(.'>< and <■:,)]]- u'ui>. ("hinose, '!t re- publics, u important t<' their <nvn filled ao-;;iij.<|; tion nf fJieni ■'^ avocatidns tvn.s fur their ickod up, by its of others. 'p'">li'/ed the m boot-black iiiii' plofessioii. but now it a[.jiears about ciiually divided with the negroes, thoy are uenerallv found in cvowd.s round the priticipal hotel-; in San Francisco, brush in hand, asking eniploynient. They likewise cry all the fish — manufacture liot de,u<dinuts, with a portable cookinr^ apparatus, at the street corners — orind knives, aiul jteddle cheap citrnrs. calces and frn.it. The mouicd classes uene- rally invest their capital in restaurants, uand^ling saloons. ;ind drinkiu';- shops, which are extensively patronised by all nations, from their ;^reat sliill in culimiry affairs, and the univ(Msal taste they manifest in adorning and "gettin'^ up," eoui»!ed with a i:re;;t spirit of ])olit''ness. and inclina- tion to e.\eel in the art oi' pleasing'. The Spanish .\meric;ins are hold in soverciL'u contempt by citizens, ami arc stigmatized with being filthy, ignorant, lazy and vicious. But this report mu.st be received with great caution on account of the antipathy between the races, engendered by th. Anunican war, and constantly fed by little acts of aggression by both parties, and. in truth, it must be owned that the poor Spaniard has been more sinned against than sinning. Hundreds have been murdered, or ruthlessly driven from their homes, for acts «>f dcjo'cdation committed by Americans. No s,u,,m>r is a crime committed, than su.^picion falls immediately on some unfortunate Mexican or (,'liileno, and as is often the case, where the people bcconu' the executive, the accusers are by no means expected to prove the victim guilty, but he i.s commanded to establish liis innocence, and but little time is allowed for the operation. They have, in nuuiy cases, suffered more persecutions, even tlian the Chinaman, from the simple cause that his natural liaiightiness leads him to resent oppression, and his heart burn?^ for revenge, which 18 KAMiiLINUS IN CALIi-'UKM A. m IS often fVarfully ubtairuMl. They huvc apparently come, not for tlio imrposc of aocumulating woaltli, but to live easily a.ul enjoy life. IJut when compelled to work, no more skilful or industrious miner can be found than the ffambnsino of .Sonora. When the cxehe.iuer is flourishing they dress like hi.lal-os, and puff their n);,n'iioe,, iuter^ minably, au.l are found with tastefully adjusted wanfo, around their darling monte table, a uiatter of necessity to them at such times ; as a people they are extremely qriu r- ous nnd polite, thouo-h very reserved, and seem happy and contented when supplied with melons and cards, with something to play for, The Germans, as is usual with tlu^m in other countries, .-•re industrious, orderly and contented, and appear to be! with the Anglo-Saxon, the only people well adapted to bo the progcuitc rs of new nations. They are, in the main, very unpopular with American and Irish laborers, because no reduction of witges, will tempt them to pluck up a spirit and strike for a higher remuneration. They .-seem satisfied also, when in business for themselves, with slow, but constant returns, which, together with the essential gift.s of economy and sobriety— except, perhaps, a strong pen- chant for %.v />;>>•— in most cases, even here, are surely conducive to prosi)erity. The extreme facility with wh' ^h they ac(juire the Knglisli to.iguc, and the habits of the ruling people, conspire to hopeful success in localities, where mendicancy would alone present itself to the thrift- less minds of many others, who look with contempt upon German thrift. As for the Italians— who are fortunately not veiy numerous, they are .-hiefly of tiie lowest ela.ss, and manage to slide through, in the round of existence, as that classic M: FiAMBLINC.S IN rA[,iri)nNl A. 19 i1 ntly come, 5ut to live > work, no I than the flourish inpj foes, inter- L'd mantoA ccessity to elj gviif r- em happy ardri. with t'Oiiritric.';!, ear to be, 1 to be the lain, very 'cause no p a spirit 1 .satisfied ^low, but tiul giftji on<,' pen- re .«urely th wli' ^h ts of the oealitics, bo th)-it't- npt upon !0t It] it classi*; very f people arc wont to do, in their own sunny land. That is, tliey beL'. sleep, or grind Imrdy-gurdys. It has often been a -juery with inquirutive persons, and those fond of the marvellous, by what stroke of fortune the dark-eyed sij^uors were eonveyod liither, and what could be their object y The most reasonable soluti(ni to the problem, seems to be, that they had some shadowy idea of lazzaroni, wliite mice, and tambourines, being up in the market, and essential to the well-being of (,'aliiuniia society. r>ut the most sfciiking feature in all this varied crowd — at least to a freshly arrived stranger — are the Chinese residents. Evt!ry .spot where their presence is tolerated >ecms oeeu}iied, and they appear particularly attached to their own select society, for it is an extreme rarity when a ,-ulitary .specimen is discovered straying from the fold of iiis brrthrcii. The emigration was a perfect rush during the years of T)] and '52 ; for the next two years, most probably from the evil eye with which they w^ie regarded, it sensibly declined, but has again commenced as briskly as ever. The pictures on the tea-boxes, grotesque as they may a])pcar, are in many rcsjtects good resemblances of the (tri^inal. but it must be (.wned by their greatest :.dmirc:-s tluit tlie fitney sketches have most wickedly naiterrd the undt'\ iatiiig coarseness uf the celestial coun- tenance. A dreary sameness exist.s throughov', both in form and feature, and both experience and perspicacity are rceuisite in (»rder to puint out onaJoJin from another, with any degree of accuracy. They have all the same angular features, almond shaped eyes, coiidcal cues and ridiculous inexpressibles or petticoats ; the article in question having about an equal claim to either the masculine or feminine tegument. They don't wall:, but ( ontvivc to scuttle alontr 20 UA.MIW.INCS IN fAUroilNIA, orncwhat afto,- ,l,o fi.l,!,,,, ,„• ,,„ „|„,,„„, „„„,. ,„„,.,^,, for wat,.,-, .In,,.,.;,,,- tl,c fcH al,.„. i„ ,|,c „,„., „,„„„,i; ">""...■.■ ,v,H,.„t .aisinjr flKm, ; ,l„.ir .•!,n„.v, ,l,iol<.s„|o.l ^Ime, hnwovor, ,„ay ..wiallj- u.,hI ,„ .!»• .1„.,„ „,i, ruliculous nppcaniucc. Miners and .,(1,.,. ,„„.,i,„ «.|,„ ,,„,, ,,|,,,||^.,| ,|^^,^^^ ^.^.^^^^^ va™u.s places i.ave ,eeeive,l stro,,,- ceusure fV,,,,, some pMlam „-„p,s,,s f,„. the oonto,.pe „„.l „fte„ worse usa,.o TThu-h ".f„l,„ _„s tl,e Chinaman is li liaHy ter.nedl .as recen,,, ,„ „,eir l,an,ls. Anih.mt a,.on,p,in. to ,iu« .fy those par„os i„ ,l,eir unwarmntabh. pr.,eee,lL..s Wll, ., «-e nnpartially ,la„ee at the suhjeet, >vc shall fin,! ^ome cause for this apparently ernel anin,osity. |„ the tot place, every thin, in connection wiH, then,, s„ en- P .a .cally n,arb then, out as a ,,:.,,,,.. ,„,,,, ,, „^ ,, '. .-an,,y fron, ,l,e Oe„r,iu,n Si.lns, had the p„w " ioco,not,on already obtained access to that rcn.ote planet rh,s e.rcumstanee is rp.ite sufficient to excite the prejudice o many „. ,t ,s a reeo.ni.cd fact, the anta.onii, illnt: ad a Ifo, ,,n ,n„ovat,ons. lin, „ ,„ore logical and seri: ""^, "''•'.«"°"' »- "'■■^^'i h tlH.' opponen; to Asiatic c-.u«ra,n,n. It .as publicly l.nown ti.at , ,y of the r specs f,„ , ord.nary arrivals Iron, other countries, who "0 to cn,.,cl. tl,e,.,selvcs individually, and very often to powe. o the .state, a-ul in the end, perhaps, to becon,c bench , ^ ^^ theVconteude <o«ld never be hoped for from the Chinese. for-t„ .J ™tn,„g of mutual scorn between the ,„o raecslfhc .3 •lAMlU.IN<iS IN TAT.IKOKNIA 'Zl Lirdo n);ikin<r •O'^t uncouth ', tliit'k-solod f llx'iii this 1 them from iVoiii some worse usajre Ij termed — empting to >roeeccHngs, e f^h.'tll find tj. In the lem^ so eni- p, that they ;)ecimens of powers of lote planet, e projiidice lism almost ) parvenus, il and sori- to Asiatic; y of these t'd in all tries, who y often to vealth and to become on tended, )r til am7 "■ J aces — the priiuiji.il anivals in tho^.' days, cunsi»tcd of nomin.ii freemen, but absolute jitona in reality, attended by keen- witted masters, who krpt tlicm earefuil) alo<»f, and assidu- ously endeavored to prevent ;til coiumunieatioii witb whiten, (( la Ci no/ ill II So II //I. It was a>>erted that th(y Were ori^iiutlly enuaiied in their own ('(nuitiy for u eertain small sum pai<l in advaneo, the said sum to be li(|uid:ited by a few dollars paid month- !}•, which was barely suiheient to furnish their wardrobe riu! proceeds of their labor meanwhile bein^- dej)osited in the hand> uf the oHieer in ehar!;e. The disbursements alsd were liiiht in tlie extreme, as a ear<;n of riee i:cnerally aeeompanied thttii. -utheient for their consumption during; theirsdjourn in the uiiconi;cnial land of the "outside bar- barians." MS thev rat})er unpolitely designate all poor fel- lows iHit natives of the celestial empire. This state of affair- was not merely an evil, but an outrage of serious import, eallini: haidly for redress, both fn.m it« inconsis- tency with the institutions of a free country, and the prohtlcss (Iraimige of treasure tu enrich the coffers of a foreign and barbarous dcspotisjn. As this trade in Coolies lias now ceased, together with importing for theniselven, merchants arc now tlu.'ir best friends, and miners treat them with much less active hostility than formerly— but not less contemptuously — and John has learnt to take all scurrilous jests on his anatomical structure, and all oppro- ))rious epithets, with grinning affability, as the surest method of preserving a sound Chinaman. Ju the town.s their main occupation consists in washing for the public, and trading with each other, and many of their merchants, short as their residence h?s been, have already aceuiriu- lated handaonu? fortunes. In r}i,- different uiiuiug se«!tion8, (J * 22 RAIIHLINOSJ IN CALIFORNIA. -wlicrc thoy arc foiirul in the greatest numbers, they gene- rally work earth which has been eonsidered unpayable by white men, and seldom reject it, while it produces a daily average of one dollar per man. Often, too, wh^n they accidentally .stumble on a spot where the pro.spects are favorable, they are summjuily ejected, by any lucky indi- vidual who fancies to claim the ground, or else pay u handsome price for the privilege of non-interference In large camps where laws exist, a right of purchase is gene- rally respected, but in ob.scure diggings, it is not so," and too often the new-comers succeed each other so fast, that the actual discoverer, is at last obliged to give up his ground in despair. This is most likely a reason wliy a contempt for veracity is imputed to them, for on ques- tioning a Chinaman as to the paying properties of his claim, the invariable reply is "No good, John— two pans, hap cent— no hab got— no make licey,"— (Rice.) Thej rarely attempt a legal action, even with each other, which is no small sign of sagacity and prudence, for although the law would very willingly go through the form "of dealing the commodity out to them, it would, very aptly, be the monkey system— and they generally excuse the court the trouble of stripping them. They have striven hard, at various intervals, to be allowed the practice of jurisdiction among themselves; but as bad precedent has occurred in Java, and other places, where this privilege was conceded to them by the Dutch, and afterwards retracted, from the abuse of the power thus granted to them, it has been concluded, here, to deal them out law, when required, after the ftishion of barbarians. Expensive as the most frugal fare has always x>eeu in tliis country, the Chinaman contrives to subsist 4 '* ^ HAMULI N08 IN CALIFORNIA. 23 r.i, they gene- unpayable by tluces a daily h whin they prospects are y lucky iudi- r cbe pay a 'fcronce. In base is gene- not so, and so fast, that give up his 3ason wliy a for on fjues- rties of hi.s — two pans, ice.) They >ther, which or although he form of very aptly, excuse the vals, to be heniselves ; and other 'lem by the 'Use of the ided, here, ftishion of has always to subsist ■i -'X on a very trifling outlay of the circulating niediuiu. Their diet chiefly consists of pig and vegetable!, the lat- ter, with the e.\ception of rice, being greatly aided by the spontaneous productions of the country, for they are excellent herbalists. These they cook with great skill and complexity, and handle their slender chop-sticks with dexterity and despatch, keeping up a constant colloquy with each other during the busiest and most interesting periods of the feeding process. Every thing possibly edible, however, is aceptable to the Oriental palate ; the coarsest of ofTal and small fl.sh, lizards, rats, fat puppies, and all such abominable contributions, are gratefully accepted by John's capacious, and ostrich-like stomach. But rough as the raw material may have been, there is nothing disgusting in the appearance when served ; indeed, nothing can exceed the neatness and cleanliness of their cooking arrangements. But much as others may contemn, there are doubtless many good points, worthy of imita- tion, that act as a heavy counterbalance, to the more disa- greeable phases of this extraordinary compound of civili- zation and barbarism. They are, without exception, the most law-abiding class in the community; it is a great rarity when one of them cuts up a freak worthy of the recorder's notice, and even then he is seldom the aggressor, but merely acting in a becoming manner of self-defence. Bu. ' V, ti rliis latter becomes a crime in the eyes of the la's ■ • u Chinaman's evidence is worthless against a citizen. They are temperate in the use of alcoholic liquors, extremely economical, and industrious as bees. Although well satisfied with a small compensation for their labors, there is no injury to other ouerativts, on the score of competition, as they mostly keep aloof, and live and 1 f w 24 W fUMHLIA'.^s [X CAI. [FORMA. trade with each other fn avocations nn<i localities that would be utterly de.orte.l hut for their nntirin. patience .'ind per,«everanee. It is to be deeply r.-trictted that the ritrht hand of fel- owsh.p and Christian charity ha. not been n.ore freely -Klered to this .-tefuland deeply thinking peopled ^\ho can tell the astounding effect such a course niiUt bavc ultin.ately had on the destinies of the world, a^ul the march of the only true civilizer, ti.e Christian relioion ^ Let ,t be ren.embered that this inoeni.us race, end>ncino a^ they do such a huge proportion of earth's inhabitants^ ^■^>^ remam steeped in the darkest night of idolatry, and notwuhstanding tho clou<l of nnssionaries who have'noblv gwen their talents, fortunes and lives, fV>r thedod-like motive of heathen conversion, their efforts have almost Oten as naught, and treasure^ of worldly wealth, and, What ,s worse still, treasures of human intellect and vir- tue, uave been hopelessly s,|uandered as worthless thinos t-ut.t would actually appear as if the Deity himself l^^d blued h,s own good time, and h,>re, on the sho,os of the once lonely J'acilic-where the oldest race n.ay e.nbraee .M>u fratern.se with the newest-had placed his holy stand- ■-^■^]^ ="Hl n.arked it ,mt as a grand rallyintr irround and urnversity, to provide the whole heathen woHd with in- Flructors, of potent and lasting infiuencc-preaehers of ih, gospel a.ul men of their own language and kindred ^^•S th.s ,s of all others the most effective field in the world to make converts, whose future efforts mi-ht well be crowned with sueeess on their return to the\nd of then- nut.y.ty ; but, alas ! such a consummation ean scarcely bo looked forbythemostenthusiustie. wher<^ brutal it- ind c^ontetiipt are exercised, instead of Christian forbea'rance aud brotherly love. M i W m KAMBLl.NOS IN CALITORMA. 25 loealiticf; fhat 'ir\n<y patioiici' Iiaiid of fel- moro freely Ivin^' people, course luioht ? world, and i.'Ki religion ^ \, embracing inhabitants, idolatry, and » bave nobly be (Jod-like bave almost caltb, and, • ct and vir- iloss tilings, liniself had 10)0^ of tlie ay embrace holy stand- nvMind and d with in- ■eachers of d kindred, old in the might well Ke land of n s-ijarcely itaiity and •rbea ranee t 51 Of the hist, thougli not least, the famous Anglo-Saxon, a title uuw monopolised by all who claim the English for their nutivo tongue. lie is here, as be appears determined to be in all places eventually, the head, heart, and tonguo of all ; and if he has somewhat misapplied his genius, and degenerated in the observance of the moral code, and in some of the nobler applications of his intellectual nature — by comparative estrangement from the society of virtuous females — exertions for the accumulation of wealth liave been proportionably stimulated, and his native daring and iiiternal strength have been multiplied four-fold. The most numerous and important of this section of tlie (jenna homo, are, of course, the citizens of the United States. The native American presents himself to the foreigner visiting the Atlantic States, according to the provincialism of his birth place, and some of the most h-ublinie blunders have been perpetrated by European tra- vellers, by setting down the peculiarities of an individual, or even of a State, as a national sample of the whole, seeming to overlook the fact that Connecticut, for example, may not in all instances set the fashions to commonwealths having the most trifling connection with her, scarcely an idea in connnon, and more than a tliousand miles off ! 'i hey might, indeed, almost with the same show of reason, exhibit a " broth of a boy" from the wilds c^ Connemnra, for a staid citizen of Whiteehapel — or a Cossack of the t'on, for a Baltic fisherman. But here we may speculate on the characteristics of an individual representative, from what portion we please, and shall thus obtain a juster criterion of them, as a total, than we could by the minutest inspeetion from Maine to Texas. The genuine Yankee, from the land of "fixins," C2 "% 2C RAMBL!N«;.s £N rAUFORNJA. ^^^.^.I^ dctoaod by hi. bu.,li„g habit,, „a,ai intoua.iou, ..d ecc.„„u-,. .,,„.uatio,.s: the, will often manufacture: the „ea„s ,,, a hvehhoed, and hy even the foundation of .. f^.rtune, rom the n.o.t ineou.prehen.ihie, unthoupht of "'^ '"'.'"''"r """''' »"'" "l"'«"«l' their expemuents woo,„,. ,he li,.l.!e ,..Jde,s. are frc,ue„t failiros like • - < --1- spuler, the, return a,„in ,„ the har.e, un- it"'' T, "' '^ ""'''""^ '' ""'^"^ "■"-'-' -"■ success. Lhey are ,n u,o.«t eases the instiirators of every -•■"*.■ permanent and ,o„d. Churches and Schools, Hos- . ,a,s and Asjlnrns, and „,„„beriess institutions of benefit, ..« oeeply .ndcbted to their exertions in the cause of hu --.,,, wh,le the low .rogueries already n.anifest disgust "d u„cas,„ess at their presence. Though e.vtre.nely p"." sp,nted ,n their gifts, they are trcn.endously attld.ed ^•tht^;, ° ^^'"»"--7f-w''ilc petty thefts are viewed Will. upe,la ,ve contnn.ely, j;ig„„tio ,•,.„„,,, ,,, ,,„,^.^^, too often w,th u„,,uali(ied approbation. 1 our b'hoy of New Vorl- i„ .. m- , . h-iif „f .1, , , ' --"^ rollicking fellow— fi.'it "t them arc dentists— drcssv if he ,•■„, . ff i •. "-vch adicted ,0 heavv Viti , , ' "'"' ;;;-;' •■-;^ many things W. „,„,/,,/,./>,,,.,,. ,,„,, ■';■■"■'': ■■■''■l;;-'«-tlK- nia.erial, will i,,,,s, ,,,,., ,;,,,,,,,,„ -™,.en.,ior,K„„.i.Qu:,t.e, the last ,„iarter .o'es ij r;,'":'"'^ ■?'' >— trothcr.inhin:,,: -;d physiognomy, bu, is I'ar in advaneeof bin, i., his ideCs « -nifet destiny, bniggadoeia and filibusterism. ;. .beral patronucr of the theatrical corps, spouts .< N ' v .Mhe winter of our discontent." and „„,;,' .„ ,,;„"'^ fouudest tnystery of the green room, ..uotes T I t, e """ '^''' ' '*'"■ ••' "-"-■'-, and Calculates wh e -:Ci s i ■ t RAMBf,iN(iS IN rAIJFOHMA. 27 li intouatioii, Uianufaoturo oundatioQ of iithought of, experiments itilures, like •liarjie, un- 'wiicd with n-H of every hools, Hos- '^ of benefit, lu.se of hu- t'est disoust enieJy pub- Ij attaclied are viewed looked on 1' fellow — >i'd it, and lers, lie 'i/i's. and iiil\- sport iioi's free He h:is laii»u;(iie bis ideas I Hois ■, "Now tlie pro- ! I*aine, ^ben be hidf; adieu ttj this Jrublunary spliere, to a'o soiiiewbere, and bill into the arms of Munroe, the grestt oriiiinator of liis ' iilitieal opinions, and the most renitukablt' man the world ever produced. Tbc Kentuckians I'ennsvlvanians and lUu-k-<-ves, are a tbrivinu prudent race, and a]iproaeb the Vankee mode! much in tbeir ideas of thrift and persistence. But their spheres of action differ widely; for whib; the latter eschews bom; and sinew practict', and develops his per- ceptive facidties to the most ample stretch, in the my.stc- riou.s doctrine ot speculative chances, the former plod industriously at e-tablished avocations, and are anionj'' the mo.st industrious and well-doinij; of American citizens. 'J'he South and S. West — to judpe from that biriic nor- tiorj here, amply displayed for perusal — are far — very far, in tlio rcai'ward, in comparison with those ii; mod, in almost all the essentials that constitute refinement and enlightenment. The curse of slavery with both, and the .semi-barbarous, unrestrained frontier life of the latter, have left an indelible and unplea.sant mark upon tho present ueneration of the workin-j' classes of whites, and desj.ite thv bootless l)oast of free citizen.sbiji, and much as ihcy \,it:\ vaunt their symiiathy for the (biwn trod(h-n masses of Euro].e, the Kus^iaii peasant is fully their c<|Ual in knowledL'e, and their superior i?i intciirity. Tbc F. I'"s of the S(»utli. seem to po,<vess all the Jiauub- lincss of (he little (Jernian Prince, minus urbanity ami respect to the laws of tlieir c<nintry ; and it is a sad truth, (bat oven in this countiy. most of tlu; trnoedios enacted have taken their oriein in Southern principles, said prin- ciplc'ir conHistin;^ in tlie higiiwayman's coat of arms, — " mieht (^or money') ii,akes riiibt." ii0 28 KA.MBUNUS IN CALli'OKNIA. tonstant commuuicatiou with .laves has done iucedible CV.1 wuh the lab„m,g ela..s of .outher.ors; having it con- M^ntlybdoro their cjes, that their on,plojn,ent i^pi-eoisely HMular to that of an inferior race, and e.vtren,ely unre.nu nerafve besides it can hardly, he supposed, in a country where the moral rein i., held so loosely, that virtue and mdastry can long hold out in the struggle-he resigns iu Jespan. and the sole desire remaining is to calmly loaf hi., clays away. '' l-he most poverty-stricken, know-nothing gangs of the bouth, I have n,et with, are the Georgian miners, and dirt eaters rom Carolina. A large nu.nber of the Ueorgians origmally found their way here on tlie Coolie system But on one point they diftered materially from the Asiatics- hat IS, they invariably repudiated all indebtedness on the.r arrival, and after thus whitewashing then.selves connneneed geulogie;,! excavations on their own hook ■ndepcndent as the fourth of July, They are e..tremei; dissipated, and slovenly in their apparel, but good-natured and coninmnieative, while all of them seen, to have an inveterate j„ „,../„„„ f„,. t^^less boots, and crownlcss hats. i he Carolinians are only distinguished from the Georgians by the great delight they manifest in ina..ticating earth but as this i.. an article of consumption, free to all parties,' I don t see that we have any particular right to interfere rrovdcd the ground be not auriferous. From this odd propcnsuy they have been nicknamed Wrteateis or Dirtikins. The Loui.ianians fro.u the Crescent City have ideas of the largest dimensious, and boast that the banks of their " Fatber of Waters." caves in more dirt, annually, than wuuia manufacture a better island than Great Britain I RAMP.LINGS IN <'A IJFOBNIA. '2U )ne iuercdibic aving it con- it is precisely lely unreiuu- iu a country t virtue and e resigns in Ini ly loaf his angs of the miners, and e Georgians stem. But ! Asiatics — ' ted n ess on themselves, own hook, extremely od-natured ■0 have an nless hats. Georgians, iug earth, ;ill i)arties, interfere, this odd eaters or e ideas of s of their illy, than Britain. They .'tr*' brimful of pity and contoiuiif for Nigueri*, Northerners, and Abolitionists from everywhere, are full of «trangc oaths, carry long knives, and patronize brandv- hraa,4i and mintjuleps to any extent, toasting confusion, with all the honors, to Sunday laws and Sons of Tempcr- aneo. The Sharp-shooters, ory///.Y>', from the mighty ^iissouri and its tributaries, are often made the butts of their better provided fellow-citizens, and they are, in sooth, commonly speaking, rough and unpolished as their own westein land. They have an instinctive antipathy to salt water, ;ind in (•onse<|uence, the major portion of them wlut have refi-eshed California bv their attendance, are iiilLirims bv I he land vnutc. They are extremely lo([uacioas on the earliest ac({uaintanceship, and woo betide the luckless "stranger" upon wliom they inflict, with their barlmrous dialect, the lights and shadows of life on the plains, for as this soli- tary journey in the wilderness — which they term travel- ling — has been the tirst from the paternal ro<if tree, their memories arc most disagreeably green, ;ind tenacious of the smallest circumstance of adventure. Durinu' the sum- mer of 'oO, a. certain county — far aw;iy in the wilds (»f Missouri — yclept Pike, was taken — without any premoni- tory s)'mptoms whatever — with a wholesale e*netic, and fairly inundated the desert — thick as Pharoah's frous with shoals of youthful, long-legged, hungry Pikes. To the common query of returners — who met them on their march — of '' Whence come yc ?" the invariable counter- sign was Pike county, and as they brought for their sole heritage, a profounder shade of verdure even than their predeees.sors frotu the same State, their brethren got incongruously classed with them, and th«' biicf coi?non)en 80 RAMBLINQS IN CALIFORNIA. of Ftke IS now familiarly applied to all. They are a fine- iooking, corn-fed, hardy set of varlets, straight as Indians, and have the aboriginal distaste to aught that savors of drudgery,, but when he snuffs the tainted gale, the puke ;s thar, and ten cent dirt, pick and shovel are dropped in disgust, when the track of a grizzly or antelope is near, for they are all -lost monsters" that come within sight of nis unerring rifle. They are a whiskey-loving lot, adepts at the fashionable games of poker and scen-xcp, but are otherwise intensely Ignorant, and are easily directed in their votes by any ^mall politician from their own state, for they are clannish in the extreme, and faithfully attached to their own section of the republic. All these varieties are only to be found collected together in tae wonderful menagerie of San Francisco, from whence proceed the different streams of fortune hunters, big with higli hope, and again receives them on their backward route, with spirits exultant or crestfallen, as their varied rates may be. The city occupies the north-eastern extremity of the pemnsula, formed by the bay bearing its name on the one side, and by the Pacific on tlie other. The harbor has been materially injured by what has been termed the ex'- tcnsion policy, or sale of water lots by the .^overnn.ent to private individuals, for the professed object of forminc. a Mnkmg fund-an appropriate name, by the way-i„ order to meet the liabilities of the State. But the real use of t^iese ots has been to form palatable tit-bits from his obese l^xcellency to his parasites. So well satisfied did the rulers become with their former experiments in this nlan of 1..k1 making, that a fre.h Bill was formed for the^ purpose" of 9. RAMIJLINGS IN CALIFORNIA. 31 ey are a fine- it as Indians, at savors of lie, ihe puke are dropped lope is near, iliin sight of fashionable se intensely )tes by any ire clannish own section ed together t'oni whence 's, big with ' backward leir varied ity of the on the one Jarbor has ed the ex- rninent to forming a —in order 3al use of I his obese the rulers n of land Lirpose of ■I rescuing another mile from the clutches ef old Neptune. But the former recipients of the bread and fishes being rather impulitically excluded from the next meal, were in- dignant that their rivals should obtain peaceful possession of the city front, while their own wharves and warehouses already existent were contemptuously thrown in the rear — they became in consequence horribly patriotic, denounced the schemers and their nefarious machinations, and openly acknowledged their own delin(iuencies in times gone by ; the press also joined in the crusade against the proceedings, and the city delegation resigned their seats, but were im- mediately re-elected — a democratic principle said to test the will of the majority. The plan was therefore reluc- tantly abandoned for a season, but will doubtless be again agitated on the first propitious opportunity. The poor expectants had to weep over departed hopes, and seek for drier diggings, after making the disagreeable discovery that si'overnment patronaLre and water lots arc both fleeting and unstable things. Much uiischief has been already done, for the great business portion is, even now, outside the high water mark, and nearly fills up the crescent which originally existed between the protecting points of the harbor. In a south- fast gale, the position of the residents in many places is much more romantic than comfortable, for the houses un- dulate gracefully to the howl of the tempest, and the surging billows down in the cellar, and form no bad emblem of republican " institutions" in general. Many a reverend old tub of a ship, that has been crowded oflf to make way for the splendid race of clippers that now sw.arm upon the ocean, is here laid up Ijig]', and dry, with a mile of street between her and her native element. — 4 •••> KA.MMLI\(;.s IS <:AIJK()H\/a. ■l«''li."K house. :.„,! ,.>•,.„ cliua-hcs; a,„| cu-ollem tcno -, w„l. ,|„„. ,„„„.|„,i„„, ^^^, ''"" """""«-".V"l'afli,„>j,vo,„l..„l„„.|,, " •'" '•• -. ..il I.Mf:„,,,e,s, „„d.n colors, JMSlIc .u-l, o,l,or "" '.'" "'!"■ ,"»■" "'"■'■-' i»"-i, -Hi i,„cdio». of ,iu.i; » ankee, wi h stare lod c.II n- -., i i . * ■ -von,., u, ,,,. I,. ..,,„,, p,, ,„,,^^_^,,, ^,H A u, c „„.,x ,„„,, .s,„, a„. ,.,i.,i,i„, i„ ,^^,..|,., ^^^^.^^^ ^^ ^' m,s „■„„,„ ,,„,, „,„j ,,,„,., ,„^,^,^,,,._^|^,^ ^^ ^. ^1^^ _^^^ ... vcnaho..„u,,,e,,«.«on,is..,,,,.o,,,,,.. Si,,, ■,,.,„,,,,„,,„. ; -1 Jun„, ,l,„ Chun d,„,,s,,, „,„„..,„,,. of v..„ „..,. n,eo,,t|,„.,,„.,l,v.Mo.i. lH.,Ibo„„l i„ l,i.|, ,„,,„,;.j <•"'<■> 1" •■ vnlk i„ .•„,(| ..|„,c ,0 t„„t,| IllOtI I'.-l.-..-. I..du,„.s, l,.i,|„„„„, l,,|„„,j,„, ^. « .tlc.,„e,. ,,i eol,,,.. lit.,,,,),, ev.,., „.,i„„ „„J„ ,„,,,,„_ ■ ^-,1-. .i.vuM h.acujors :uui ou.stou.s iuaiutaia their due !•" Oil moves the 1 i RAMl.I-INGiJ IN rA'TFOHNlA. as 'Xfollent tone- ''•>*>. >triiL-turos •<■»' the finest hy .spots, two 1 shelter funii- '■iiJti III) iidur '.•stiiiH on tho 'i«><' ])lankcMi iit't". Crowds 'c eacli otJier, !Ies.s of their I tnidolovifia I'vc-pipe. en- tile .solemn <'t .stockin,f>i!, fiithoiii.s. A '. who fliiur- t' \\dlH nirn. li^h culorecl. hiippily ual- Here, too, 1. lifting up -in .^ulicita moves tho ►rituiid jijul 'iiiaiis. an,i " heaven — » their du«? preponderance, and others must gradually adopt them, even tor the motives of !-elf-defcnee and cumtbrtuble exist- once. Whole cargoes, of two ur three thou.sun(i tons, are dis- charged and placed upon the wharf with a celerity and punctuality elsewhere incomprehen.sible. Drays loaded with rich freight from every climate, and pulled by sleek and powerful horses, freijucntly blockade the ill-conditioned street.^, to tlut Ji.smay and choler of hurried pedestrians, notwithstanding the prai.seworthy exertion.s of their pro- fane (Iriver.s, every epithet, holy and unholy, often failing to extricate them. One good reason for this every-day chaos in the wholesale streets, is the common liberty enjoyed by the merchants of depositing their wares where they may think best, and as all arc, of course, emulous of exhibiting their stock in the most alluring position to the public (^ye, it i.^' not unusual to di.'-cover a respectable stock-in-trade, nearly midway of the street, while the capacious lirick store to which it appertains, is merely garnished with a beggarly account of empty boxes. When we have tired our eyes with the teeming streets and wharves, and evening compels reluctant trader.s to adjourn, we may step aside and survey at a respectful dis- tance, the worshippers at the shrine of chance — at least as it was a year since, for, alas I its palmiest days are over. In 'r)2, a broken down old roue — who had won and lost within a week $50,000 — in lamenting the degeneracy of the present times, informed me, with tears in his eyes, that the then doings were but childish tricks in comparison with the dashing days of old. It might be so, but faith tn A lITAl*!?' en nip 0(i ^^ Cff\ ni*** vnliT r\if\ c* + i!l nr»/« t¥ n \tt H fi»»-fc\ri*^ ^ might be hazarded, from the immenfic numbers who nightly 34 HA.Mn,,rN,;s ,.v v^uronsl^. ''■■'"'■"■'"I i'-i..«,, .,.,, , , """"•; ■■'w'"^<' '■"•■ 'i,i., „„- ""Pl'lii'd f,„,„ n„, , ,,. I'"^''' ^y <lio way, ,ra» T'-i-...-.flun.n,:, ,;V''''•''''^^^•'''''-"%• '<"^'M,.,l, „n,i„ b„„ r„, , ■': "■"■"' '" «»ec-t sounds l^uiWin,, b,,,,,„ , , j ""I" '-«<!. of the „„,i,,o ^^'-c,l„-...s., „„, ,,:„■,.•!,. 1;':,; f ;'■%-"' ""'-s of ,,!,„ seo.notl. best „„,„ ,„■„, fll'l ^f *'>'^"'Cvo,,,so whiel, lent of two bit, „ ,„,, ' "'f . '^"'- "><•' ""iforu, orjuiva- bcauty-all of H,e Ae ^h ,1b T? ""'■'"'•" "^ '■-""'<' "«'o «ti„ ,i,.hf,v,„„„ , , "'"^ "'°^"^- i'«loli«.t.>~ roul... and ,„.„,;, .^'^^ ,.f '"'^ --^'b' fn>pe,y, .be consirtent with the ,„„, „,„„,/ """''" '" •''" '«l.".t. Order i, ,,„id t„ fc, „^,, ^ q^cnoe, „,a„-, „eee.s,ity • ,„d ,1 , ' '" " "'"'•''-■■ ■'ol'i Rood initsapplie,/' '^J"^" '<""=" will ,eo,„ to ^- they too havot :' : ;, r;; r ,t:;^."'^«''^'-'"".v-- the sun. .■,,„!„ , '^ ' "" "" things else nnde- ■—■""'■«"<■»-'* oveu bore the name of SIAVIILINUS IN CAM FORMA 35 f -tin conductod ^^ find painted y to ni;iK-o the ' ^'o'" thin nn- llod in fjplen. 'lit'eiit nfrair,s. "' (-'i'ch, day- ■ Ji<^ way, was "1 nmncrous leii- radiance 1 noon day. tt'cot sounds ■'1 wa.s tliero vino. TJie tlie aniplo 'Jai.s of the ^iistidioiiH i'<'ge which ' straight" 'HI equiva- of female lolieate- — ■ niirrorw, stay'cs of ciy, the J'OS])(H:ts 'I conse- seein to liquity : * under lanie of ft '&■ »' witness on the niurdevor's trial, who pronounced tbo prisoner respectable, for tlio very satisfactory reason that he kept a ^iii;. The gamblin^L^ houses demonstrated as Huch, UHc only the time-honored and substantial ,Lnvnu:!fl of iMonte, U'uijrc et Noir, Faro, c"s:c. ; but in the lower regiona, whore the spicy pasliuics of .Uoulettc, iM'om-h Monte, and the LiltU' Ji»ker (lourislud, not a shadow of a chance ex- ibtcd in favMi- of the deluded pilgarlit- who dared to te.st the JKizanls of the ;:aiM<'. Kaeh tabl;; had its ad<Mpuitc nuinb.'i' ^A' r(ij,i>n\-: — a nuMiiicel nu-c of bankrupt _u;aniblcra and pI^kiM.ckuts. Thesf bank einpli»yces would win or lu-e lai'-c >ums ni.iihtly, trimnilnLi- th''ir <ails to suit the tastes of tlie uninitiated — more (-specially the fresh youthfl wlio v.ert' ciiiuh.us of :iuiassing a little pile on the spot, from the b'llance of the home supply, minus the di.-anrcc- ble eoiieuuiitants ..f ihc i)iek and shovel. So gku'ing, even at that time, did the legali/,(Ml robbti'lrs and outn'.gea be(<i:iie, that the patirnal law makers t-ondescended to fi;'.uic ami cUM-t a bill fir the suppression eif the smadler specie.-; of swindlini;- ; Imt as .saving appearance was its only object, it was easily evaded, ;iiiu the light amusements were abiKist immt-diaiely renewed^ with a trifling elmngo in externals, but in all resp.eets eoineiding in substance. As an iliu.-ii-ation of bureau gullability, 1 will endeavor to describe one trick which was played in the houstvs on the most itublie streets, night after night, for thwu} or four years. A fi'esh importation from the -\tlautie :-Uates, or a suc- cessful miner di termiuedly bfuiiid for Inj^^linj, irf inuuc- diately detected by tht^se e\p(#ieneed physiognoraiats, the moment he crosses tlie threshold. As soon a.s pricked, tho tyro is gradually trustlod up to the ten^pting precincts of .']6 i^AMni.lMis IN ('AMKonNlA. Ix'in;:; rr,prrf„hfr, thdugli this word it is now well known may be adnii.s,s;iblo to much f|ualificatiou, illustnited by tho the A n r tabh tho name of the oimie— where the banker, in an easy ehair, reposes in all the majesty of wealth, in rear of a table on which is a ^^reat displny of mi-i,'ets, slu-s. and dollars. The table has an ornamental eovcrin- — :i spaeo in front of which, enclosed by :i crescent, is marked by the famous introduction t<. all book learninu'. An animate.] scene now c(.iiimences between the jolly- banker and his auxiliaries, who occupy his ri-ht and loft wina, with a rcscrye in front for emergencies. He of tho slu-s and specimens has, to all appearance, liijuored oyer- mueh— his fine shinino hat has received a dingo, and topples grofXi;iIy from his brows— he bra-s of his bank, and uuich witty repartee passes between him and his amia- ble eollea-ues, who with shirts of fanciful patterns, pistols, and beard, are excellent fac-similes of miners, well to do, <Mi a visit to the nu-tropolis. They are sharp-looking miners too. exeeedinoly wide-awake, and apparently re- scdved on stripping the inebriated gan»bler of his entire capital. After much amusing dialogue, the banker in a bungling .sort of .style, rattles the die and inverts his box oil the table, he then reHU)ves his hand from it and solicits bets— at the same time, the troublesome miner on his left apparently endeavors to divert his attention, by handing him some awkward coin toexeliange. While the bankcr'n eye is turned off, the deed is aceompli.shed. The confede- rate on the right perceives his advantage, and, with a eat- like motion, slightly raisesThc box, which plainly discloses the winning letter to all the spectators, his associate thou eeases his aim()y:inc(\ ;ind d( bags on t;ie siini|;ir tnlij.' let own th(>y plumj) tlieii- lieuvj th I, ter llAMHMNtls IN fAllFOllNIA. 0( *11 kn!)wn ted by tho ^hcro tho lajcsty of ilispliiy of 'nainontui od hy -,i > all book tho jolly and loft le of tho rod over- igo, and is bank, liis amia- S piHtols, .'11 to do, i-looking ■ntly re- is entire ker in a iiis box 1 solicits his left liaiidinp: )ankor*H xmfede- h a cut- lisolosos t*' thoa lieuvj Now. ill this little hy-i.lay has l-oou acted exi-n-s Iv to .ly a arouse Hostin^'s ac.iuisitivoness, and has been attentively watched, both by that verdant one and the other by-stander> —the "reatev portion of whom are aware of its object, but rvcn iahey werr so inclined, they dare not utter a syllable <,f warnin- to the dupe, for summary and unpleasant ejec- tion from'the pren.ises surely follows such an ollenee.- As this is most probably IJostin-'s iirst introductn.n tu such a scene, he has naturally enou-h some conscientious scruples, touchino. the propriety of thus defraudm- the .M,od-natured i:and)ler. Uut lie a.-ues to hiniselt, that others will do it, and wliy should not he have his share; besides to double his linances in a moment is a splciu.id idea, so he concludes to repent at leisure, and with a ner- vous jerk he stakes the buckskin ba- which contains his all, exelaimino- in a voice shakey with the excitement, '' The Mines or Bostin-." The die is instantly exposed to the view of all present, when lo 1 his favorite letter has inconceivably disappeared from the top, havin- indee.l been dexterously capsized, previous to uncovcrin-. If the pluckc-d keep frigid, he is kindly permitted tu depart in peace, and perhaps invited to imbibe ; but if he exhibit intractability to his fate, he instantaneously dis- covers himself bewildered in the -utter, from whence he is seen slowly to emerge on a prospecting tour to " mur- derer's bar" or '' Sears's diggings," as the case may be, while the old formula begins anew as a fresh g.josc is le.l to the table. Contemptible as these resorts may seem, large sums were daily realized by these authorized rogues, and the l.ankers were far from being thought lightly o^', even among the highest society the city could aflbrd, for many of the tables IIAMIMJNCS rx I'AlJFdUMA. W'vvc uun.'d hy .lu-lovs and (u'iior;i!>. wIk. thus prnfitably li,i,lit(MK'<l the liibors of law and warfart — and one victim f'olI()W(Mlaiiotlieriii(inicksucce>.si()ii, carniiio^ his experience dearly to he .nire, hut in tlie end perliaps safer to hiin tlum wonhl be a tenip(»r:iry sueeess, whieh. niio-ht delude him on to a life of infamy and perhaps a disuracefnl death ; but llie.se unfortunates, smartinu' ui- ler a first severe eas- ti.u-ation, are apt to look with continued horror on u-aniblint;, and mentally determine to abjure it forever. Public f>]>inion lias however turned against the knavc.«. .Sunday play was first prohibited, and finally all were de- clared unlawful ; and althou-h niucdi of it is still ea.rried on, they are at least prohibited from exiiibitinu' their enormitie.^ to the public ua/.e. which saves inany from falling:' into tlieir clutches. Many other callings were, and are even now, followed m the r>ay ("ity, not a whit more honest than those above- mentioned ; such as mock auctions, watch stuf!inos, and other swindling' tricks, incidental to a much larger city. One reason may be that operative labor is here certain 'V'calth, and money is comparatively speaking-, easily earned, and in most cases is apt to be valued in proportion. This circumstance, in conjunction with the miserable police department, liolds out a stroma: inducement toblack-lecrs of every jirade, t-. say nothiuo- of the political dislionesty of those to whom has been entrusted the protection of life and property. It has herjtofore been an inviolable rule — cheat on the grandest scale, cow hide the servant of God at the altar, or pistol your opponent for injured honor; tlie invincible dollar will vindicate you, and carry you scathe- l0S< tbl'''11'>l' t1inMV/ln<i] .i.v.iin^* -i ''l/^ii<l r-^--U-> i- 1 -1^ » IV... S.I.. .., ..,.,.,, I .j^anj.-i i( vioUu Oi \-. it iU'.-^.--Cr^, iKicKcii hy all e.xislin- statutes. As a proof we may cite in ac- 9 AMIil.lNt.S IN (-AT.U'CUNIA. •>n ii'iifitably victinj :pcricnce ' to hiin t delude il tloJttHi ; vcrc cji?- ambliiit;, knavo.«f. ivcro <\o- 1 cjirricd lu' tlioir II V from rbllowod above- <i,'S, and city.— certain earned, . This ' police :-]c^9 of esty of of life rule — of Ood )r ; tlie seathe- 1 1, 1 UJifKCli ' in a(r- iS:S 1 i count, the hundreds of murders connnitted within tho ,.ity. and how nuiny un.lerwc^nt the last penalty of the law ? Just tliree, one of whom was an unfortunate insant^ Spaniard, and the other two were poor, unknown, penniless vaurants. IJut no other result could possibly accrue, where beardless boys, and unprincipled shoulder-strikers sat in hi-h ].laces, owin- their elevation whi(di was but temporary, and therefore the nn.rc abused, not to their r.Ttitudc'ur tu their -cuius, but to tlic insaue cry of party ;,nd the -rossest humbu.ti-ing of the -reat unwashed demo- iracy. Hut there are many si-hts and sounds both pleasin- and instructive t.) the lover of his kind, which are already takin- deep root in this -reat mart of heterogeneous and conflictinu items. The Sabbath bells calling to the house of praver, the work iu most instances of the pcvsevcnng sons of New Kngland ; the happy, noisy urchins, loosed from school restraint ; the lu.sts of news-boys vending the latest papers from the east; the tearing, ranting red republican steam paddy, scooping a ton of sand at each inspiration of its mighty lungs, he is your true and im- partial leveller, a.ul gives to the valleys the superfluity of the hills -, already have its efforts graded dozens of streets, and performed of itself the labor of an army of spadesmen. IJut tlu' great mafuifaeturing district of the city, occupie.^ the soutirern portion, which bears the pleasing chimerical name of " Happy A'allcy." Hut few branches of mechanical industry are now, or are ever likely to be of e<iual importance with iron manu- facturers, in this State. The inconvenience of importing ^,],,^5,oy 5,^f,,.i,;ij(M'v. wl'.ich was Until recentlv a matter Ot necessity, was undoubtedly a dead wei-ht to such m- ^ II 40 U AMBLINGS IN CALII'OUNIA. vestments u.s re(iiiireJ them fur their thurouirli develop- ment. In many cases a slight misunderstanding on the part of the manufacturer, witli regard to the proportion of the article, or injury received in the long voyage, has cost thousands of dollars, besides the immense loss of time resulting from such a casualty. Practical men shortly perceived this imperfection, and an early encouragement was in conse<|uence given to the pioneer foundries in Happy A^alley, their numbers have under this fostering influence vastly increased, and at the present time, the tall chimneys, pufling off bellows, and discordant dang of hammers, make up a pandemonium worthy of Brummagem^ herself, and constant employment is thus given to num- bers of skilful w^orkmen, at wages unprecedented perhaps in the world. The trade to be sure is yet in its infancy, but the brat is a lusty one, and a glorious manhood is before it. Many ocean steamers of vast nuignitude already di:;turb the peaceful bosom of the Pacific. Every lonely bay will ere long be ruffled by the restless paddle, which will recjuire existence or at least constant aid from the busy cyclops. Commerce also will most si.rely pry into each navigable stream, but San Francisco must still be as she is now, the great force-pump. Her commercial advantages must still continue imperative, both from her central position, and fror; the fact, that it is almost the only harbor worthy of the name on the Western coast of habitable North America. Already indeed there is an export of machinery to the home ports, the islands and western Mexico, the quartz, grist and saw mills, are also supplied with tlioir c'car, with more convenience, and in tlie orvl much cheaper, than they possibly could by the best system of i ine asp the be i ■'"<iy MV.Mlil.lNliS IN ( AlilFORM.V- 41 dcvolop- L^ oil the )ortioii of , has cost of time I shortly 'agement dries ia fostering me, the ehing of 111 m age m^ to nuni- perhaps ofimportntiun. A uniform increase and success is the inevitable result, and despite the bleak and uncomtortablo aspect of the region apportioned to the sous of Yulean, the adjective of Happy, is not so nml apropos as might be superficially imagined. le brat is . IMany ;iirb the will ere reciuire Cyclops. avigable low, the lust still ion, and 'orthy of ! North port of western supplii'd the end t system is I ■ -n f r-i-" -iinaiiTiMMriBrini ^/-vr^i'-W:, r^'n-rip/--^- -r-^ -%.\i^- **A**«£ill . ■ \k k' rART li. T HE MINES. f 'M Foil the reason that the mines were the great acquisitive principle that led to the permanent occupation of (*aii- fornia, they are too apt to be considered by the new comers, as well as the "old folks at home/' the leading feature, and, indeed, only powerful point of attraction worthy of a separate notice. Without pretending to deny that their influence is now, and long will be the most potent of any one, in directing the destinies of the state, it must .'^till be acknowledged that their material impor- tance has been much overrated, and all must allow that every ounce exported tends to exhaust their s'^ oriority over other less pretentious, but more solid and lasting 6elds of investment and labor. It is somewhat surprising too, that the richest Placers, as well here as in Australia, were the earliest discoveries ; in fact, what at the present day would be trumpeted forth flo v«lnahl«' rlirrrrivic-o wmild sn!irr^f>lv liaVG Sufficcd tO dcfraV running expenses, during the never-to-be-forgotten years ;Tf;-7 :;""?t:c:^"7r-~""«~""''"^'r^^T3Bi^S^.r KAMT'-LINCS IN ('AMKinMA. 4:; (tf '4S fvml '41'. Milling liiis ihav settled down in the old loc'uli'.irs — not ^ct exliau.stcd — to a regular and Ic^itiinutc (inploynicnt, r{M|nirin^ skill and <\\]icrionco !is well as strcni^th ; and a froh hand, CNeii ae'(.'ii>tonied to lahoriuus empluynient. ranmit ox]»("ct w;iuc'S with the t'xporicnecd drifter, tiny more than to >hip as an abh; seaman, ignorant of the stern or stem <tf ji sliip. Althouuh proverbially nn unecrtain employment, gold is still disscminatt:d in the soil with a strange system of regularity: and while we admit it to be more fluetuating than most honorable <'m- ployments, the priee of labor is mostly aft'eeted by the average suecess at the mines. To give a synopsis or history of every mining eamp would prove neither useful nor interesting to the general reader, ev^•n if it were possible, whieh it is not, both from the vast territory to be explored, and tli(> difficulty of pro- curing eorieet ,-talistics. tVoiu the lM):i<ting propensities <)f the over stuiguine, and the doleful complaints of the des- pondent and lionicsick. Ncitlier can we place absulute dependence on the editor's '' Facts of the day," or their correspondents lengthy epistles containing the latest " News from the JMoun tains." Such stuff is mostly treated with sovereign contempt by the \eteraus, and well may it be so, for it is often a mere ruse oi' stagt; or steamboat proprietors as an indueement for tyros to patronize their favorite line ; but as caniors on other rivers and roads are well posted on these tricks of the trade, their covert advertisements arc e'lually stuffed with " astounding dis- coveries " and "big lumps," so much so, that a balance of attraction is perfectly establibhed, and the would-be nabob i« onU' '^uz'h'd — Uko tbn d'^'ukev botween the bundles of provender — as to whieh of the*EI Dorados he had best 4:; RAMBLINCS IN CALUOllN lA. 45 1 patronize. Nor eun we trust much to the hoards ut un- successful ,^eoh:.psts, always to he found in the larger cities Their views are most likely to be tinged with the bleak retrospect of their disappointment, stupidity, or shameful prodigality, and the thoughts of their varied afflictions, induce them to look on the mining districts with other than rose-colored spectacles, and fervently to dispatch them with all their ct cctcras to his Satanic majesty, forgetting that whatever their occupation may be, its essential support originates in the stalwart arms of the .old-hunter. The truth is-the adventurer's wisest plan is to jump in, haphazard, wherever fortune may p^^ease to ouide his footsteps, and should his acciuirements fall below Lr, he may watch the flight of birds like the soothsayers of old, and pitch his tent by the guidance of their wing. Such a proceeding may prove cjually propitious, as the best directed scheme derived from the wisdom of his pre- decessors. He may rest assured, however, that in every undeserted mining locality, capable of supporting a store or liquor shop, gold is still in the soil, and if all c aims be not already occupied, his prospects are probably ,,^ ..ood as any other, that is, in surface diggings, whJi-e a short probation is suffi(nent to acquire the requi- site skill ; for experience has proved, in spite of modern geology, that no amount of skill or sagacity can at all times point out a gold lead, be its hue, consistency, or position as it may. Mining at the present time may bo classed under four great heads, each differing from the other in many im- portant features. They are, the surfoce diggings, deep diggings, river and quartz mining. The surface diggings, 1 T — „ io^r»n ar«^ '^f nmirse nearlv where the aeposiia nave wccn la.^^, ar.. — f 'i 4<; KAMlUJNr.S IN CAMKORMA. exiiau-tcfl, ;iiu! cvfii tlio.-o that have ]):ii(l ;iii»i!rrato wac;0H, aro liccdiMinu' cvf^rv ilav innn- dilVn'ult td find, in those places where wafcM' has heeii preeurahh" \)\ natural or arti- ficial means. There are vast tracks still, however, that have unlv heen di.-covci'e'l (liirini!' the dry seasons past, that w.iulii -iipjnirt — ww-X most jirohalily will vet — (luiusands u\ miners, v.lien wr.tei can he eonve_\ 'd to iheni at reason- a'ole rail's; this cannot |,o>sihly he until the value oi' labor is depreciated, and a nii>n> moderat*^ income expt-eted c»n oriu'inal oulhiv, or until ri<du'r uronnd eoiumanded hy a ditch already existing' is inipo\ crished, when the Avater not (lem;\nded el-ewheri' may he turned, rather than wasted, into a more umderatcly jiayinii- (diannel. Thci'o are many district-; too, whero it will always lie .".n im])ossihility to convey watei- on account of their altitude, that iia\e been v,'orked durinu' several \ear>. wdnnu'ver there is rain water sidhcii'Ut for tlu' purpose. It is ni'edless to say such a.rc not vi ry desirable, for they cannot be worked except in a rain storm, and of coursi> must — under common circiim- ^t.^,^.^,^ — [lo idh> nine-tenths of the year. Diii'ii-ino-s of this descri])tion to l)e luld or valued at any thin;;' must, when in operation, pay exceedin<i^ly well. W here th.e >tra;a is ri(di and the field extensive, water can generally be tonveyi'd, from some of tiie mountain streams or rivers, by means of a dit(di or flume, and in such cases, an amph' sujiply may be provided for the greater part of the year. l>ut as water i.s very expensive when delivered by those means, the inferior places as be- fore said, must lie fallow, until the winter rains supply the necessary fluid without money, but m^t without price. Indispensable it is, as the existence of the ore itself within the soil, to prosecute the business of mining, for there is I ■? 11 IlAMBLlN(ii4 IN CALIFORNIA. 47 ■5 a i « nb««lnt,.I,v, !-■ .-'th.l .1 wash,,,,, by «ln, , u, f.w ^l.im..'^ s,K:..ks ,.,„ Ik. ox.nu.fa, Iruu, tho v.. pr, ■ portion or s I ...,t ,,-av,,.l .Uh wh-u-l, U .s onvo ,h^^ L-,e h>o„«< to 1,0 .u,-c a, ■.o,M-l<.;'l"I'.;'"'lt" - ,„„; old .li../n„s «l,o.v ,„uvi, 1...S boon lound bj p.ck- i„..sbtob..l3-,a.ol.lo|ioo.i;,,. oHtho oyo, bul .-uob |U-e I- ,■ il.,.v -no ,li""in-s of tho oiost llo^u■!l- |,lo kin.l, wlo.ro tho :..oM oau bo .blo.toj „. ihr ..,/ ..Itor tin; !ti(i.-t- tiiiiiute ocular lost. • ,i ,,„, ,,,.,,, ,li,,h„s, whiob MV now last bocotn.n, tb „„|o ,lo|,on,U.ooo or tho toioo,., ;,,-o ^voAod >n two atllovon i. iviou. tb.t tlo. only w.,y to lo-o.,oot Ibo Wgo o,- boa- „r , i|,„, is by .b,ki,o, . ,-baa in tho Tirst .o.t.o.o and ir,.voblo,torno„.totbo„-on„ar,o,otbo.b.t..ond,ng ..v'i^thio^ .0 Ibo su,i;oo or Ibo oaab in tubs, oxooj.t v.loJv t'no .voHol is not of n -o-.t doioh, ov ot n vory 1 :odo.on,,tion,ibutv.onldno,koitnH.,ro.ounJ,.vo,,no ,;,,,„„„, „r,his n.tnro is ,„l ot, n.o.vly, by t:uan,, the «.o.Vnloss l.n...,ion oil- .nd byin;. tbo p.y dirt too, wblon i. 0,00 piokod up and ...look Tbis i,. denon.no.tca ,„.,;,,,„•„,/, bat it is r.roly tbot ..round w.ll 1-y l" >^"¥ inoro tlooi rnin, twooly to thirty foot. ^ .|V ,,,,u,,ndo . bill it is o.ot :.onov.lly ro.,uis,to to s.nk ., lo,lo nt .11. it is usUid to cooUK'noe ut a lio.nt supposed 'to bo at loast snllioiontly low to drain olV all tho water, and opon a tnnnol. Sotootirnos it is essoutial to out tbvo.ugh ^vbat is tovnrorl tho nm lodoo, and follow tbrougb wl h just suBioiont i-iso to drain olV t.ny springs tbat may be stvuck-. b-or it is orton tho case that tbc bod-vock wtl rise up, ctuiiciding vviiu me ma im =uu.c ..... va -_, ■-■'--■""-ii(teA^T>ffl-inif'g''«^«f-'tf*Mfii^ 48 RAMin,I.N(i.S IN CAl.lKOllNIA. s . again dooliiio or jn'fch tow.'irds its centre. The ledge most conunonly lies in such a .shape in the best tunnels. .Some- times the tunnels liave been eommeneed at a point too high for drainage, as it i.s found on cro.ssing tlie rim ledge that it still continues descending ; and no resource re- main.s but to retreat and commence anew at a point suffi- ciently low. ]Jut when the tunnel lias been started and followed too low for the paying gravel in tlie liill, it can be obviated by penetrating upwards to the proper distance, and going on with another one above, the old one still answering the purpose of a drain and as a means of entrance and exit. When the excavation is made through the solid rock or very compact ground, it is not neces.sary to protect the top or sides, but when unsafely loose, it is in- di.spcnsable to line both with timber to prevent them tumbling in. Many lives and immense labor have been sacrificed from carelessness in this particular. "When the distance is much, it is fr<Miuently necessary to sink a shaft in the interior to cause a current of air ; but when this is impracticable from the rapid rise of the hill or the com- position of the soil, it can be ventilated by means of fans. Even after auriferous earth is found, the tunnel is con- tinued straight ahead until the lead is crossed or dis- continues suflficicntly paying. A series of cross drifts then commenced at right angles with the main one, the breadth of the claim, or if not claimed, a In ilUcretion. All the empty space behind is then filled up with stones or waste dirt to keep the roof solid, and cross drifts cut parallel to the others, and as close as safety will warrant. In this w^uy an expert drifter will strip almost every inch of the ledge, and work himself gradually backwards until the lead is exhausted, leaving the ground above as solid as when he first commenced operations. If UAM15LIN(iS IN CALli'OUNlA. 49 Nut th. most ai>tant nppvoximatiun can be maac to tlic >vcalth of the hills in ('aliloruia, fur every month teems with fresh (liscuv.ries in this system of n.ining, but it is it that will .vadually brin,^ the eallin.u^ eompletely under the enntrol uf eaint:di.ts, or at least of lav,e euiupames; both from the heavy risk that atUuds pn.l,eet,n, and the o.pen.e of workin, after the .old is founu ; the thousands of prosneet holes and deserted tunnels scattered through- out the len.th and breadth of th. land, tell a sad tale ot ,.any a small Ibrtune's wreck, and may well act as beacons to deter others iVom venturing their little all m an adveu- ture so ha/.ardous. . Tl,c vivor oiMv.t di,;/.n;.rs oceury the cl,u«,.cl.s ul nvov., ,,„1 thusc r»rtio„s c-.lkHl Uu-., ^vh•K■l. have und.mbtcdly bcon fovMK.a bv the eavtl, «ush«l from the n.ounU.ms by ,vi„tov tVcslu-t;. At tbose b.vs the riv.v often .ppoa,-s to U,vo been tuvned IVom its orighud course, by the aee„.,,«- ,„tion or aeiK.u,iu its bed, and fonns a spee.es of flat peninsub., and s„n,etb,,es even a„ island that d.v.des tl« river into two eluumels. The goUl on tl^ese plaees i, .nostly fnu, wldeb eireun>stanee .ill aid to verdy the theu.y fit. bein..- a de,H,sit-tbe .rowtb of eentnnes It ts L ,lwou:U-i-i-'''^';-"r'':.;"tr n,ountains, or in rrofessional parlance less si»tt d f it «ill n>ostly pay a per eenta.e fron. tlje su.*>ce to tbc bed rock, a deptl, varying in difterent places iron, a bun- d ed feet downwards. When the bod rock as found ba c, - it is n,ostly worthless, utdess perhaps it U. oc.n.ptcd the bod of a s rean, where large deposits have often been found secreted in the crevices or " pockets," after the water ha. l>ni>n +!i1:on off. , ■. "■ yooTaft<:r the first discoveries of the precious metal, tlie if' 60 RAMBMNOH IN CAI.IKORNIA. mountain rivers were suspectod to contain the hirgcst quantities, and some of tho earliest fornied conipaniw ^ero organized, for the grand object of giving another direction to the river, and to lay its unknown and long concealed trea.^ures open to the light of day. The very formation of the bars tlieniselves, offers a powerful induce- ment to such a project, and renders the undortakin- com- paratively an easy one. Where the river i.s .su.spectcd to have swerved, a "sink" mostly exists near the neck of tlie peninsula, where the ancient stream took its course centuries ago, before it was blocked up and compelled to sock another outlet. This sink is deepened sufficiently to form a race— and often the earth taken from the race has proved much richer, than that afterwards ac(]uircd from the actual river bed. At its upper end a dam is thrown across the stream, wliich is thus drawn through the artifi- cial channel, leaving its bed completely dry for a distance often of two or three miles, or whatever iength the race may be. River mining is always a costly work, and the risk a heavy one. Some, indeed, after an outlay of more than a million of dollars, have not paid wages even after- wards, and even where the prospects were favorable, one night in an early winter has suddenly swept away dam and all. Many of them have however paid their enterprising companies a thousand times over, and those who once engage in it seem to prefer it to all other mining. This wholesale drainage is likewise of vast benefit to those who hold what are termed bar or bank claims, that is from tlie low water mark back to the hills, and varying in breadth in different districts, but thirty or forty feet may be a general average. By the removal of t];o water, they are enabled to sinkj their shafts below what before RAMRLiNOS IN CALIFORNIA. 51 constituted the water level. Thiw could not be managed formerly, with any degree of success unless the pay was exceedingly good; from the great labor rcfjuired in pumping out the water, that constantly filtered through the gravelly banks of the river. The quartz leads form an entirely independent feature in the art of mining, totally distinct from the others. They can only be worked advantageously by monied men, from the great (quantities of machinery reciuisite to separate the gold from the rock. This can only be accomplished thoroughly, by crushing it to a powder, although very rich (juarti! has repaid individual effort, sometimes very hand- somely, merely by burning and then pounding it with a pestle and mort^ir. The greater part of the ([uartz com- panies for so far, have been failures, arising in part from want of thorough prospecting in the lirst instance, and in the second from inexperience, imperfect management, and irresponsible defaulters. IJut no doubt can exist of its ultimately becoming a permanent and profitable branch of mining, when expectations are moderated, and when men of integrity and skill are permitted to guide their manage- ment. The existence of these (quartz leads is very singular ; and their contiguity to almost all hill diggings, and the immensity of gold actually contained in many of them, hold out confirmation strong to many, that quartz is the original mother of the precious metal. And that flats and bans are freqiiently found rich, at great distances from any quartz lead, but contain quantities of quartz gravel, only shows that these places have been formed by the passage of water from the hills, and even the trold in the rivers is frequently found with small particles of that rock attached to it. >■ .1 ' ?! t 52 UAMHLINOS IN CALIFOIIMA. .Main ([uartz leads <2;euoralIy run parallel to each other, althi>.,uii (hey hnve spurs or braiiehes in every dircetion. The lead ean often be traced for many miles, ihrou|i;h hill and valley, and oven across laroje rivers. Sometime it to- tally disappears from (he surface and auain emerges clear and distinetas ever, lookimr at a distance like flocks of snow white sheej), and adds on-at variety and interest to many an other\vis(> monotonous landscape. iMininu; maidiiiiery has undernone ureat chanjzes and im]»n»vements since (he early days, and just in i)roportiou as tlu' uold beca'iic more dillicult to procure, so have the means for fai-ilitadiiLT its extraction increased. Duriii"- the j)eri(id of the early discoveries — a knife to scrape the crevices and a tin cup to receive tlie pnteeeds, were con- sidered sullicient implements ; wlu'ii it beuan to be found mixed with the earth, a tlarim;- tin or iron })an bepin to be used, and is used still for prospectinu' and cleansimr purposes by the whites, and even as a means of livelihood by (Jreasors and Indians; many a snui,^ fortune, too, has been made by the simple ])rocess of *-i)annini!: out." The operation is performed by insertin;; the pan (wluLdi con- tains aliout a common ])ail-l'ull of earth,) in the water and keepinti; it constantly ia motion, at the same time pickini^- out the laru-e stones. As the pan flaps backward.s and torwards, the liuht sand uradually works off, and the u'old naturaVy settles to the bottom and by continuinii' the pro- cess the jiold is left completely by itself; the fiftieth part of a cent can thus be saved, and is })erfectly visible. A Mexican ean ])an from fifty to a liuiulred pans per dav, and make small waires out of earth paying; two or three CvHic 10 III!.- ifiKKeiiUi. ,\iLLr iiic [laii came rue rocKcr, and finally the long torn, sluice and hvdraulie, together J'.AMHLlNdS IN I'ALlfOHNlA. '}0 I with tlie process of -round sluicing and tl.e nooessary •accompiiniiiifiits of ditches luid Humes. The rocker us its name implies, consists of a box some- what in the form of a child's cradhs with the rockers at- tached, but shallower, and sometimes without a footboard. At the upper end, when in operation, is a piece of canvas on a slight wooden frame, moveable at pleasure. This is inserted, angularly from the top nearly midway to the bottom at the head of the rocker. Over this rests a box about two feet square and four inches deep, with an iron bottom punched with holes a (juarter of an i.ich in diame- ter, it too is moveable as well as the canvas or " apron." When a bucket of " pay-dirt " is deposited in this box, the machine is set in motion backwards and forwards by means of a handle attached to the body, and water poured on by a dipper holding about half a gallon. This carries througli all substances of less diameter than the holes, and wlien this is accomplished, the box is lifted or swung off on a kind of hinge, to dispose of the gravel that re- mains. In the meantime all the light earth, gravel and sand, have washed completely through the rocker— which is so phued as to have a small declination from head to foot— leaving the gold and heavy sand on the canvas. The apr.)!! is not removed until what is called a run has gone through, which consists of 25, 50, or 100 buckets, according to the richness of the earth or the judgment of the operator. When this is done, the apron is carefully scraped into the head and taken out, while water is again applied and the rocker shaken smartly. The gold, from its superior specific gravity, is thus left behind, mixed most commonly with heavy black sand, which is separated by panning or blowing, if tolerably coarse, but the very ;» 54 IlAMBLINdS IN CALIFORNIA. %^ U' J.1 fine can only bt' thorouglilj saved by uiixing witli quick- silver, which aiiKil,nu;uates soon with the guld by rolliiit; the pan round. The sand is then easily washed vn\ and the quicksilver containing the gold is deposited on a piece of buckskin, and tightly s(juezeed s.j as to let the <|uick- silvcr run through. The volatile metal is driven off in fumes, by exposing (he aniaigau to a strong heat ; when the quantity is large it can be s ived fbi- future use by means of: >tort, which condenses the fumes like tlie worm of a suii. In light samly soil, two good hands may sometimes wash six liundn'd buckets per day, when close to the water; but generally speaking, three or four hundred is a good days work. The long t^-m was a great improvement on the rocker, nnd altliough diil'ering j-mch in appearance, acts jn-ecisely on ihc ^ame principle, b;it with jnucli greater des])alch and eco!iomy,and tlie reason it has not completely M!i)frsL'ded the rocker, is, tiiat itrc(p' <'s a smart running stream of at least >ix cubic iticlus, and a fall of one fo(»t in twenty to work successl'ully. Its principal advantage is, tliat the running water performs the work of rocking itself, and whde two hands keep busy in feeding the machine, o'lc can, by working industriously^ keep it clear of tlie refuse gravel, simjily by sliovelHng it out, aiid no inte'rruption is requisite in the matter of cleaning up, before the conclu- sion of the days' work ; when one or two thousand buckets of earth is found in the " riffle box," concentrated into one panful. The sluice was the uext improvement in the art of kbor-saving, but it is ofteu impossible to apjdy it, in ground where either the rocker or torn may be advantageously used. It wants a much heavier stream than the torn, i) RAMBLINGS IN CALIFORNIA. 55 'g requiring the same fall for a much longer (Vi>:tancc. A ''string;" of sluices, frcuerally consist of a sueecssiun of boxes, like a trough twelve feet in lengtii, having two sides and a bottom, and tapering at one end so as to tit snugly into each other. The length of the '' string" vaiies, act;;'-ding to the tenacity of the wa^h-dirt, fr<»u> hfty fjet to a thou.-and. The gold is saved in these boxes after the earth is shovelled in, in a variety of ways. As the water rushes through, it carries all the light earth off, and also the gold for a short di.-tanee, until it meets with a " riPiie,"' which is some sort of an obstruction in the boxes belov/, where the precious metal may have the means of settling down to the bottom. Sometimes, the riifle consists of light slats of wood or iron, running crosswise or longitudinally, and sometimes of a board fnll of auger holes. But tlio varit'ties arc lc"ion, for there is not on(; essential in the whole n.ining craft, upon which exists so much diversity or o])iiuon ; and indeed it is a favorite method among the uiiscliievous boys, who wish to set a pair of cranky old fellows by the ears, to introduce and compare the resiiective favorite of each. It is, no doubt, from this that the California proverb is derived, wiierein we illustrate^ a man's success in some fa- vorite project, by saying " He has inade the riflle." The hydraulic h.ose is perhaps the most wlu^^esale sys- tem of all, but so many natural advantages reciuire to be united for its prolitable use, that many n;ay be resident in the mines for years, without ever having the opportunity of seeing it tested. It re(juires, in the first instance, a very steep bank of earth, either to be strippedoff for a sub- Strata, or to be auriferous in itself. This field must also be of considerable extent, for the various items used become # li 56 RAMIUJNOS [N fALlKORNMA. very expeii.sivo, :md unles,'^ the claim holds out for Ji lon<i- time, it would not be prudent to attempt the operation. The work is })erfonned ])y turninu the water on the face of the bank, throufj^h a nozzle attached to very strong hose — srenerally No. 1 canvas doubled — similar to the way water is forced from a fire engine, only, thiit instead of being forced out by hand, it is done by the pressure or weight of the water itself, which is of course powerful in proportion to the height it falls. With a fall of forty or d^ fifty feet the effect on a bank is tremendous, for no strata of earth is so compact as to resist it. It will even tear up the common sand: tone ledge, and lava melts before it, like snow. I have seen dogs intentionally killed by it, in a few seconds, and accidents have occurred, where men have lost their lives in a similar way. I knew of an instance where a drifter — in close contiguity to a hydraulic — was accidentally buried, by a cave of more than forty tons of earth, and before his three companions could return from a distance of three hundi-ed yards, whither they had gone in pursuit of shovellers, the hydraulic had released him, and although he looked quite damp and uncomfortable at first, he returned to his labor <|uite philosophically in a few minutes. (j round sluicing is never a finishing work of itself. It simply rethices the ([uantity of dirt, to be afterwards sluiced by the u.'-ual mc;.ns. Jtis done by allowing a very heavy stream to rush over the ground, which requires to be very steep in consequence, and thus carries off a very large per centage of the refuse soil without any shoA elling at all, but the constant application of the pick tends ma- t.priallv to fxncdito thp niattor. more esneeiallv if the quantity of gravel is material. KAMTUJNOS IN CALIFORNIA. 57 Tlie capital invostocl in ditches would appear almost fabulous. More than one has cost a million of dollars, and some of tham in their various ramifications are over a hun- dred miles in length. In many places a single mile has cost twenty thousand dollars, and there is now scarcely a camp of any importance in all the northern or southern mines, where water is not procurable by artificial means, for a greater or less portion of the year. Although em- bracing such an enormous portion of the capital of the country, there is not probably a more uncertain invest- ment in the whole range of this uncertain country. Tt is next to impossible to put a valuation on your stock even after a year's experience. And instances are not rare where a dividend of a hundred per cent has been paid at the end of si k months, and at the very same time the stock a drug in the nuirket at fifty per cent below par.— Instances of this kind occur where the strata has been completely superficial, and paying well while they lasted, were of course soon exhausted. But again the stock may take an upward tendency— after being almost aban- doned—from the discovery of deep diggings commanded by its waters. ' The speedy exhaustion of the mines was early foretold, and even so lately as '52, the erector of a brick building in a mining town, was generally ridculed as a visionary. But at the present day there is not a town worthy of the name, that has not several substantial fire-proof buildings of brick or stone, and notwithstanding that the diggings- in the immediate vicinity are for the most part worked out, new habitations are constantly in the course of erec- tion for concentration is now more fashionable than of yore— and the large camps have chiefly swallowed up the F 68 RAMHLrNOS IN CALIFORNIA. ^uirH ones. And the practical miner in spite of the cou- etant improvements, has actually to go farther for supplies, than ho had in the earlier times. What a contrast do these funny little villages present, io the eye of one habituated to the sleepy agricultural towns of other countries ; built of all kinds of possible materials, shapes and sizes, and in any spot, no matter how inconvenient, where the first store-keeper choose to pitcli himself. Sometimes they are found on a ])road flat with no suburb visible, squeezed together as though the and had originally been purchased by the inch, the little Btreets «o crooked and confined, a wheelbarrow could scarcely be made to go through them ; sonjetimes again, they aro made up of detached buildings, forming an ex- tended village two or three miles long, a great inconveni- ence to every one, and to politicians and gossipers in par- ticular. Some, too, are quite invisible until you discover them at your feet buried in a deep chasm, and unap- proachable, unless you be pleased to make your mfrec like an otter. Many of them placed on an apparently sheer hill side, resemble in the distance some native ex- crescence, and on a nearer approach, appear to ha\ e been thrown proniisenou.sly from some gigantic lumd, and stuck — like bird lime to the naked rock — forever beyond all reach of humanity in general. But for all the forlorn appearance that many uf them present, they are to all intentvS and purposes " towns as are towns" — real go-a-head marts for trafiic, living on tjade, and the constant turmoil of demand and supply. They were never intended by their founders for aught else, and business men, not pleasure seekers are the owners. Independent citi'ions enjoying life on patrimo- i UAMHLlNaS IN CALIFORNIA. 59 nics, or annuities arc not to be scon, and but rarely, old men, women, or children. The chief ingredient is vigor- ous and sturdy manhood, brimfull of life and expectation, always excepting the eternal lounger of the hotels and billiard saloons, that indigenous plant of American soil. I do verily believe if the whole catalogue of the free institutions—from independence day down to stuffing a ballot box— were exposed to the inspection of an un- prejudiced judge, with the view of obtaining his opinion as to what constitutes the most original native invention— the pure unadulterated ' dead-head ' would most assuredly bear the palm. Yes! Envious foreigners may strive, and that successfully, to snatch the honors of steamboats and forced servitude, telegraphs, piracy and mint juleps— but the loafer is incomparably- an established United States fixture— in short, an iiistitution. He has no sec- tionalism about him. lie is a federalist, a part and par- cel of Uncle Sam himself. Kansas may be gained by Shavpe's rifles, or ruffian guns— foreign citizens may be stripped of their franchise— chewing tobacco may be- come unpopular— but the loafer is a permanence. As he is at the Astor House, so is he in Kl Dorada, his means of livelihood the queerest problem of the day. But there he is, in lank dyspeptic flesh and blood— day after day, and year after year ; in salubrious weather on the piazza of the best hotel— or in bad, at the box stove, picking his teeth or lazily puffing a fragrant Havana, his heels up- lifted, his upper lip negligently curled, and the very cut of his hat betraying a languid contempt for the whole raoo of the uninitiated. He has no fellowship with the P^uro- pean sot of o, gin slion nr wine cellar — no synipathy with such, for a gulf is between them. The}j are humility'* ■ 1! 60 RA.Mj;i-l\(i.> IN CALIFOHNIA. self in pursuit oi' an invitation— he drinks at your rtrjuest with the solenm dignity of a Pacha. They arc dirty— his linen is faultless. They get drunk when they can- he is never incbrintcd— liis appreciation of the glorious cxhdaration of alcohols is much too profound, to be rashly sacrificed for the unpleasant consequences of over indul- gence. Once a year, however, they awake from their torpor, and durin«;- the whole turmoil of an election, ap- pear gifted with astonishing powers of ubiquity, as well as ability and inclination to treat their fellow-townsmen indiscriminately, on the smallest pretext. But after the excitement, their unwonted exertion and munificence in- stantly collapse like the baseless fabric of a vision, and they calmly betake themselves to the natural and orderly functions of a dead-head, until again resuscitated by the cries of their country. ^ Too many tyros get discouraged on their first introduc- tion to hard knocks and indifferent placers, ar d desert at at once, indignant and disgusted. Such persons, if possi- ble, return home by the first steamer, and of course relate to sympathizing friends, the doleful catalogue of their wrongs and misfortunes while in the mines, interspersed with shrewd guesses, as to the ultimate fate of the unfor- tunates who remain ; and all this elaborate knowledge has perhaps been acquired in the experience of twenty-four hours. The unfortunates whose finances will not permit an immediate exodus from the country, must seek employ- ment in cities for bread, and a reconstruction of their wardrobe, they will tlierefore be obliged to labor for a trifling remuneration — often, indeed, merely for their board. Such has been the fate of thousands, who with the diseased fancy of becoming immediate nabobs, have IlAMBLIXdS IN CALIFORNIA. (51 in the Iir.<t rovulsion of fueling, boeu liurriud into the uppo.sitc extreme, and tlieir crushed spirits have submitted, and bowed to the lowest depths of degradation and vice, where a moderate independence might have been acquired, in three or four years, by the use of a moderate share of industry and thrift. There is another class worthy of mention, from their great numbers and the powerful influence they wield. — These good natured people take things as they come with the stoicism of a Turk, but are not in the end in any more affluent circumstances than those just mentioned. — They are, nevertheless, as independent and perhaps to the full as happy as lords. As they erect their own shanties— rent, fuel, and water are free — and their only remaining difficulty is to li([uidate the weekly store-bill, which they manage by working their ground one, two, or more days, according to its productive powers. Those who are not fortunate enough to be proprietors, perform the same object by working for others. Another half day, or day — according to the individual's imbibing (quali- ties — will pay the tavern bill, and the "balance" of the seven days is at the gentleman's own disposal. Thia is expended according to varied tastes, the free and easies in drinking, sleeping, and eucre, while those of a literary turn spend theirs in the questionable improvement of their minds, to be derived from translations of obscene French books, and the odd novels that chance throws in their way. It must not be supposed that the hard laborer — even in the mines — is always the most successful, although it certainly is the place, of all others, where tiie prudent exercise of bone and muscle meets with its surest and F2 i'f^ l{.VMI!LI\<iS IN rAurOHNIA, Diost :i«l((juatc rewanl. Tlicr.' :u-c mu.ibcrs of porson.s, liowevcr, who niaua-o by vaiiuus inireiiious plans, and adroit niann.uenient, to elude labor, while at the same time they eontrive to serape the ('iisl tooether in a wonderful nianner. Besides tlie leo-itiniate ofiiees of stores and board- in.U' houses, there are many whose sole occupation consists injmnjn-u;/ or locatin- claims, and tlien diKjiosin- of tlicm in the most advantageous way possible by sale or barter. As a body their respectability is more tlian doubtful.— They are obliged to prevaricate and double in every con- ceivable way, to carry out their plans with success, which are, for the most part, executed on fresh arrivals from the agricultural districts, and foreigners, more especially the Chinaman, who is commonly considered lawful game, even by the wild but cunning aborigines, who have actually had the aptiiess, to palm themselves on the unsuspecting Asiatics as foreign tax collectors, and thus swindle them out of their dear bought earninu.s. One of the most suc- cessful tricks heretofore in vogue among the mining spec- ulators, was happily denominated salfin;/. This consisted in shooting small portions of gold dust into a bank from a. shot gun, where it was likely to pass through the ordeal of prospecting in the pan of the intending purchaser, who discovers when too late the rluin^r to be liis sole remu- neration. From the vast influx of foreigners into the mines, they were early deemed by the lords of the soil, as excellent sources for revenue, and a law was soon in operation, enti- tied " An Act for the protection of foreigners," but '' An Act for the spoilation of foreigners" would have been a much more applicable title to its spirit and intention.— From many causes, it has not worked so glibly as hoped UAMJtM.NdS 1\ < ALIFORMA. 03 tor, not the lo;ist of which is the unjust principk' of nia- kinu; tho tttxes themselves ;i reality, while the so-ealleil proteetii»n. in the way of eompensatioii, is(|uite ina(le(|uat(i and visionary. Uesidcs, the law was a copious bungle of itself, and althouirh a larue sum was, and still is raised monthly, it docs little more than enrich the persons em- ployed in its collection. A ureat animosity prevails against it by all foreigners, and in diggings where they are the prevailing poi)ulation, it is a dangerous and often impracticable feat, to raise a dollar. As the oidy alterna- tive in ease of non-compliance, is to take the body, as tho law enacts, the tax at the present day is rarely enforced, except on the inexhaustible Celestials. Even so late as '51, when the fiats of the legislature were more respected than they have ever been since, the collector could often make a per ccntage, even from speakers of the English language. But from that date it has got gradually into disuse — principally from the risk of collection — although the attempt is sometimes made, even at the present day. In the Summer of 1853, there was a eom^jauy consisting of three persons, on a bar of the main Vubea, called Ousley's, of which 1 was a member in reputable standing. Like all diggings in the foot-hills, the gold was extremely fine and very sparingly sown besides, and for more than a month, our industry had barely sufficed to extort civility from the dirty little Dutch storekeeper, who for some time previous had stuck up in his den some badly executed and worse spelt placards, purporting that " Trust has just vamosed the ranch, to look for new diggings," or perhaps containing a pleasant little fiction — that if we paid to-day we would be quite welcome to trust to-morrow — the un- n 01 ILVMDLINdS IN (AUroUNIA. kiinlest cut (it the jest being in the snrpvisiuf,' tact, that to-morrow never conies. IJut us we never pretended to sec the prints tit all, things liad not yet reached a climax, and pork and slap-jacks still continued to smoke upon our liospitable board. I was one noontide endeavourini- to doze in the hot blast beneath a spreading live oak, after an unsuccessful morning's hard labor, and in a humor quite the reverse to agreeable, with no safety valve by which to expend it, for my companions were at the same time — if possible — more disagreeable than myself. I was suddenly startled by the api)arition of a little sallow Mississippian, with a bald head and two revolvers and a rifle as long as himself. " Friend," said he (juietly, " jidgin from your overall.*?, your a nnncr I reckon." " Yes," I exclaimed iiercely, in spite of the formidable array (»f my <iucstioncr. " Poverty must bear its uniform, I suppose, but I have yet to learn that we must endure the gibes of bummers and blacklegs in conse([Ucnce." " Darn your overalls," he replied, in so bland a tone 1 could not for the life of me penetrate whether it was a malediction, or sage advice, touching a very unseemly rent that existed in my garment. However, as his remark called for no direct reply, I merely cocked the tatteied rim of my hat more proudly than before, and relapsed into as di' nified a silence as I could possibly assume. " Stranger," he resumed at length, " can't you disciver who I be ?" " I have no curiosity sir, to penetrate into your private affairs." '' Wal I've jest got you now whar 1 want you. I ain't private you see, nor never was private, nor none of our I l!A.Mi;i.l.\<l.S IN CALIFOHMA. ()5 tolk.s, since the time my uncle sijot tlie schuulmaster in old Kentuck, we couldn't .sweat in private, we was allers boun to do somethino; for this free country of ourn. My brother Bob, he's a judge, and the youngest — that's (.'aractacus — he's his constable, we all go snucks, and I'm for'n tax c'lector at your sarvice. And now, whose your pardners ? for I won't insult you by axin if yuu be a citizen, you talk too good Amer'kin for that. IJut whose your pard- ners ? Air they Amer'kins or air they for'ncrs ?" As I felt at the moment in a misanthropical mood, I was seized with the idea of annoying my companions, and knowing well that there was not a grain of dust, or the President's face in the cabin, I promptly informed him where he could tind two, one Irishman and one Canadian. The little man pondered the subject for a few minutes, patting his head with a flaming bandana, and then ob- served with the aspect of a Solon, ''I reckon I'll put down to the Chinese can»p, I kin 'elect thar, any how, and it mightned be much keount to try that thar cabin of yourn, for I've found in my expe- rience, an Frishman is allers a citizen and a good democrat, and as for the Canuc — why the unfortunite critters, they want to be bad enough, and mayhap bymby when they larn something, we'll allow 'em to annex — so I'll jest travel do ami whar it will pay on the ledge." For miles down the Western slope, below the highest peai.s of the Sierra Nevada, gold is rarely to be found. About one-third of the whole disttiuce down, the first placers begin to make themselves \ isible. Loose pieces of quartz interspersed with slate, and a loose red loamy soil, are the first sure indications, and there are but few ravines — containing compact gravel in their beds — in which the <56 HAM BUNGS IN" CALIPORMA. colour of gold may not be detected, by the use of the pan. The pmspect gradually improves for another third, and then they decrease proportionably, until finally lost in the great valleys of the Sacramento in the Northern, and the San Joaquin in the Southern mines. A few placers have been discovered in the coast range but so meagre, tlu.t in few localities have they defrayed the expense of collection, although, in the very important article of quicksilver, portions of this range have proved exceedingly productive; and where it exists, the ground is valued at immense sums, but from the great outlay re- quired in the commencement, the mines are only worked by chartered companies. The main lead of the gold fields appears to run midway on the Western slope, and parallel with the ran-e, froi the interior of Oregon to the State of Sonora in Mexico ; although vast tracts intervene of small value, and for the remainder of the mountains, south of the river MariposH —although containing small leads— few of the placers are of sufficient importance, to induce parties to form any im- portant settlements. A great excitement was raised a few years back, by the announcement, that an extensive mining country was dis- covered in those regions, at a place called Kern liivor, and some thousand miners deserted the Northern dis- trict in the pursuit. But after incredible fatigue ard expense, in a journey of four or five hundred miles, thej made the withering discovery, that the river was nearly dry, and the diggings, except in a few spots, already oc- cupied by the first adventurers— of the most inferior description. Many died of inanition and exhaustion, and ^ ' ' ^^---rv luuiid tiu-niselves bankrupt; jo RAMRr.lNOS IN CALiyuKXH, 67 pocket w,th „„ ,,r„«poot of renewal. ludiRnnnt at their delusion, enq-.„ries were set on foot, with the view of fer- ret, „p „,.t the deeeiver, and it „.« fi,,^,,^, ,,jj,,,j ^„ ^,_^ pr.ne,pa »torelieeper of the di.triet, who had alreadv absorbed the entire funds of tl,e eonnnunitv, by «.lli„; «hem provision., at an exorbitant rate, and wils just then on the eve .,f taldnn; his final leave. An indignation meeting was the result of this enouiry wh.eh ended .„ the arraignn.ent of the aecusod before the bar of tho .njured j.rospeeters, and after an i„,partial trial the unfortunate merehant was eondenu.ed to the gallows, »d h,s ,ll-g„t,on gaiu eonfiseated fertile purpose of assist- mg the people to return. Justiee was pron.ptly e.eeuted 0" the dehn,,uent, and the ea.np becun.e almost deserted ■ -d f^n that date to the present, no explorations of 1 importanee have ever been n.ade south „f the so-ealled f?outheni Mines. Rven in that wide auriferous region eontaining the l.-re- -ont patent, in the Maripo,SH district, mining is very far from being a prosperous oceupation, owing in part to the ^eare.ty of water, beeause the ehief part of the river -out of u, Tuolumne are dry at uJt half of the yr »nd their is,,ia,„„, ,„al<es it a eo..t!y and proOtless journo; ■ Ko oil anJ return during the ,hy sea.son , and all persons ■» all intimate wiM, the mines, the manners, h.' it,, and ae.|U,red propensities of .ho.sc who follow the ,voeatioii. w; own that a permanent settlement in some plaee that will alloru constant if even slow returns, is the only way -with isolated exeeptions-by which the work can he advantageously prosecuted and money eventually saved IJut the majority of gold-hunters are either men of gfon.^ sanguine temperaments or reeHcss advulur.-rs, and many 68 RAMBLINOS IN CALIFORNIA. of the former class will toil in the i.K.st industrious way for a yoAiv at a ti.nc, sustaining life on the coarsest edibles and at the end be as far fron, the consumation of their dearest hopes, as they were at the commencement ; the cause of tliis is easily explained. Two men probably locate a claim in a ravine that will produce three or four dollars per day to the hand ; they then erect their cabin, work a few days to lay up a stock of provisions, and then commence prospectina^ by dicrgin- holes in the hills contiguous, with the view of discovering a richer lead. Shaft after shaft is sunk without success', until beans and tlie usual savory accompaniment have dis- appeared from their habitation. Necessity again compels them to apply themselves in their despised gulch. They are again resuscitated, and the prospecting commences afresh, until the year expires and finds them head and ears m the ledger of the merchant, and their despised claim confiscated to liquidate the debt. But had they used the same amount of industry in working their gulch, as they did in excavating the hills in fruitless searclies 4 a fortune, they would both have acquired a thousand dollars each. This mode of working makes tlie average amount an- nually earned— to the ma)i— but trifling,' although the semi-monthly exports by the steamer, make the aggregate appear large. ]Jut the truth is— between this speculative system of applying their labor, and travelling from place to place, together with much idleness, intemperance, and reckless waste— at least two-thirds of the mining operatives live in a state of constant poverty, although a hope of final success supports the one class, and a firm resolve to amend lOrae indefinite period, the otl le r. And so they drudge RAMBLINGS IN CALIFORNIA 69 along, much happier than might be imagined, under such disastrous circumstances. Many persons in reading over the various casualties to life and limb — to be found in California newspapers — and observing that the people, in the majority of cases, revenge their own wrongs in open defiance of the legal tribunals, are apt to imagine the country in a position of complete disorganization and lawlessness ; but essentially bad, as the state of society undoubtedly is, in no other country within the universe, could the rights of property and human life be equally respected under a system of government nomi- nally invincible — but in reality incapable of executing its smallest mandate without an extreme physical majority. Republicanism, here, may be literally said tu have run mad, so ridiculously incapable is it of exercising control over the masses ; for even among the most enthusiastic admirers of the so called popular principles of govern- ment — the law, its makers, and all its complicated ma- chinery are laughed at, and treated, not only with derision but often with marked hostility. It is undoubtedly the good sense and natural love of order and of justice, inherent in the Anglo-Saxon and his descendants, that makes the country habitable at all, and safer than many that have their laws respected and enforced; and the popular outbreaks that in France or Italy would lead to wholesale murder, debauchery and robbery, merely repair the social fabric, and are in truth but the enforcement of the law itself, which in the letter at least is founded on just principles, and respect for the rights of all. The San Francisco Vigilance Committee in 1856, may serve as a striking illustration of this. For although Q 70 RAMBLINOS IN CALIFORNIA. nearly ten thouBund able-bodied men (a force that in an old country would represent u population of a quarter of a million), were in arms against the government itself— and that of their own creation— the rights of good citi- zens were uniformly respected ; and their worst^ enemies mast own, that the whole turmoil had the desired effect of purging the State of a nest of desperadoes, who levied blackmail on all outside their clique, with the keys of office and the treasury under their control. It was not the existence of the thing itself, merely, that created for it such a great amount of local attention and world-wide notoriety, for such risings had been long foiniliar not only in the metropolis, but were, and still are, matters of daily occurrence throughout the length and breadth of the land, and rarely excited more than , momentary attention It was simply the e .tent of the rising, its monied influence, together with its grand conceptions, vitality, and political bearing that won it notice, not only from the local au- thority but even from the general government, although the latter even, would have bee» perfectly imbecile in quell- ing the outbreak, with the whole of the standing army ; for noble-looking and effective as the volunteer companies of the ITnited .States undoubtedly are, when pleased to act on the outside eueiuies of their country, it would take much patriotism indeed, to imagine the shadow of o,,llant- ry or bravery, t.. hover around the scrubby looking blue- coated gentry, who promenade with the U. «. upon their knapsacks. The greenest company of supes, in a provin- cial theatre, acting as "guards," look like veterans in com- parison with these parodies of soldici-s. Many of them walk literally wide between the legs like Falstaff's— "a,s if they had gyves onf and there is little doubt but they WMmmmi^. RAMBLINGS IN CALIFORNIA- 71 have been mostly intimate with such appendages. So diffi- cult is it to find professional food for powder, in every part of the Republic, that neither physical nor moral blemishes, need be any damper to the ambition of the military can- didate. The truth must be told, however, that the na- tive Americans to be found amono; this motley rabble, are extremely few, and the "repjlars" are here held in as sove- reign scorn, as in despotic eountrios they are looked on with hatred and dread. The authority given to a mii)er's meeting, looks like a tacit understanding between the government and people, that while the former is allowed to swallow the revenues without question, the latter may govern themselves, in their own small cornmunities, as they may think best, with- out fear or favor from the higher powers. Without grant- ing the philosophy of paying for nothing, still the miners themselves have shown themselves much more capable than their repre.-^entativcs. They are authorized as a corpora- ration, with the power of forming their own bye laws, but so much is tlie commission stretched, that in many camps the whole code — from stealing a shovel to a premeditated murder, is administered promptly, without consulting other courts than their own ; and so simple is their method, that the variation of punishment between the two erinies, is of small moment, when characters are both bad, for a high gallows and short shrift are the usual satisfaction of the law. Their proper power, however, does not extend beyond making laws to govern the tenure of property, and they are n allowed any power of administration ; but a decision from a miner's meeting is rar«,'ly appealed from, and would nearly always be nsejess, for the verdict of a iury from the county town would be little respected when the physi- Sfl 72 RAMBLINviS IN CALIFORNIA. cal power of tlie comrnii.iity would bo in direct opposition. In the summer of 185G, wliile residing on the Stanislaus River, in tlic Southern mines, a new ditch— which com- manded the ditrgings and provided a good supply of water- caused a great influx of strangers, hardy laborers, gamblers, salters and Chinamen. So large did the community become, that our old laws became incapable of managing us, and a new code— the work of an eminent member of the bar, from Philadelphia— was passed fur cur future good beha- vior. According to the provisoes of the document, a stand- ing committee and recorder were the only officers, and the recorder the only allowed recipient of a fee. I was the fortunate candidate for the latter office, and really, the pocket money came in very pleasantly for a good little time, and so li-ht were the duties, that they did'i^ot mate- rially encroacli upon my other occupations. They con- sisted merely in making a record of each site, occupation, or tra.nsfer of claims, at a fee of one dollar, and none were considered legal without this formula, which had the clfoct of making the occupiers of the ground all known, and vacant ground could thus always be^ found, by consulting the books of the recorder. In many camps Chinese and Spaniards are excluded, but as our bar liad many from tlie free states and many foreign citizens, charity for color triumphed, and a Hot- tentot was admitted to e(iual rights with a born citizen of Washington itself. Shortly after the recognition of the new laws, one of the miners disposed of his claim to a Chinese company, and a bill of sale was given, and the whole formula of the laws rigidly complied with. The Chinese went diligently to work, and all went smoothly until the forenoon of the RAMBLINGS IN CALIFORNIA. 73 next day, wlien I was disturbed at my work by a sound like the roaring of many waters, and looking up, I per- ceived on the bank about lifty pigtails streaming in the wind, and fifty gutteral accents, and a hundred tawny arms in violent motion. I waited patiently until weariness caused a dead silence, and tlie interpreter stepped forth and commenced an explanation. "Some 3Ielican men good — some no uood, some bad — Chinaman likey good Melican — likey licey, n likey tighty — Chinaman buy claim — he pay money — he go workey — by and by, tree bad Melican men come and say to China- man, vamos I clear I or trow in river. All oe go work China claim; Chinaman no likey, he come see you. You go fighty tree bad Melican men. Chinaman likey you vcly much, good I You go fightey — he pay you ten dollar." There was a death-like stillness during the interpreta- tion, out of which I picked sufficient to inform, me that three men had taken possession of the claim which had been sold the previous day, and had won a bloodless vic- tory by routing the fifty rightful owners. Feeling it my duty to interfere, I posted down to the disputed territory, the Chinamen following in Indian file, but at a most respectful distance. 1 found three gaunt long-haired fellows, each with a pistol in his belt and shovelling away in the most commendable style. They paid no attention as I approached, and I was obliged to open the business myself, by informing the lankest of the party that he had committed a blunder, by going to work on ground, the property of another party. He stopped his shovel slowly, and measured me leisurely from head to foot for a full minute before he condescended to reply. " Whar's the party ?" said he m 2 74 HAMniJ.VOs !N CALIFOIINIA. J replied by pointing towards tlie distant Oolestiuls. He looked attcQtivoiy where I pointed for a moment, and turned his gay.u on me more in(|uirinoly tlian before, then with a faee of tlie bhmkest surprise, he loudly addressed his nearosl partner, — " Oh, Andrew J. Pearns, como here, will you ; here's a Yankee says them dratted little yallerehap.s is a party, but et J ever hcarn any thing 'ccpt a corn-huskin go by that name afore, mny I never be lost in the streets of Littleroek agin, and that's in blessed Arkansaw." As Andrew J., found just the same difficulty in ex- plaining, T was obliged to make them understand as well as I was able, the necessity of their giving possession again, immediately, to the expelled ..ties. IJut when my object was really made known to their muddy intellects, their indignation arose to its heiglit, and I almost quailed at my own temerity, in venturing aIo)ie among such savages. They berated me soundly for '- Irmging up with colored fellers agin white folks," and concluded by telling me,— "We'll skin you like a 'possum, and fat our liar with your taller, ef you don't clar in a bee line whar you b'long." Not having any peculiar desire to experience the sylvan sport of Arkansas, performed upon my delicate frame, I withdrew a little faster perhaps thau was commensurate with dignity, but not half so fast as my copper-colored friends. As I had now undertaken the affair and had received much insult, I was determined to push the case to the utmost limit, and with this resolve proceeded to the chairman of the committee, who sent round a messenf'er and at noon the whole white population were mot in solemn conclave— except the filibusters. RAMBLINOS fN OALIFORNTA 75 A committoc of throe was then dispatched, bearing orders from the meeting for the jumpers to withdraw, but they returned also at a rate if possibk^ more accelerated than the recorder, bearing a refusal, coupled with an im- pertinent challenge to any Freemonter, to go down if they pleased, and have a free tight at rough and tumble. This was the signal for a general turmoil, and in twenty minutes upwards of a hundred men were armed and equipped, and proceeded in regular military array to the scene of coiifiict. The men of Arkansas received them with eool <iisdain, and it was not until they were summoned twice by the burly voice of the cliairman, that they condescended to cease their labor. He commenced by reading the article from tiie code, having a direct bearing on their case, and informed them of the resolution passed at the meeting. He then pulled out liis watch, and told them, that if one of their party remained on the claim at the conclusion of live minutes, he would assuredly be shot down, and ad- vised them to collect their traps at once, and leave in peace. Minute after minute was called out by the chair- .uan as they expired, and still the desperate fellows con- tinued to stand their ground, without an eye (juailing, amidst a profound and deathlike stillness, only broken at intervals by the loud voice of the leader as he called out the minutes of life. My heart ))eat wildly as the fourth was solemnly called out, without a motion on the part of tlie victims — fur I knew as surely as that powder would blaze — they were dead men at the conclusion of the call, if they still retained their stubborn position. A part of the last Uiinute liad passed, when my iirst antagonist coolly addressed his compeers, thus : •' Tottenham Pearch 76 RAMBLINOS II* CALIFORNIA. and ycou, Andrew .1. Pearns, we have stud our ground like free Auierkins, but fortin's agin us— three timog six IS eigliteen shots, in our shootin irons, anii t^n rr' . ten times ten of the sneakin nigger-worshippers ; we can't conic it respectable, let's travel I" and uracefully hoistin- their picks and shovels, they left the ground just as the last moment expired, with the air of men that had achieved a victory rather than a defeat. The Ciiinamen were thea put into possession, and held and worked their ground without interruption. A theft rarely occurs in the mines themselves. The great numbers that usually occur throughout the wliole State, are perpetrated in the larger cities, and on travel- lers in unsettled districts. A lock is seldom used at all on a miner's cabin, for a burglar could penetrate the chief part of them as easily as a carpet bag. Petty larceny is commited by squaws, who trusting on the great privilege al- ways allowed to the wearers of the petticoats in this country, sometimes take extreme liberties with flour, sugar, and pro- visions in the owner's absence. Their husbands are very cautious about such things, for the same indulgence is rarely accorded to them as to their wives, and indeed did not fear prevent them from such a venture, laziness would of itself, be every way sufficient to keep them passably honest! Many philosophers contend, that the reason for the superior energy of people in Xorthern climes, over those of the tropics lies in the circumstance,that spontaneous productions engender indolence, and that the very necessity for indus- try, in an unproductive soil, for the simple requirements of existence, stimulates to increased exertion and taste for the superfluities of life. But the theory is at fault, sadly, among the natives uf California, both with the aborigines RAMBLINOS !?} CALIFOllNIA. 77 11 themselves, find the superior descendant of the Don. The natural irrowths of the country fur man's food — in the mining countries in particular — are extremely limited, al- though in almost all places where irrigation is practicable, the soil will yield moderately, nearly every variety of pro- duction. The sustenance of the Indians appears to be now, as it always has been, principally grasshoppers, clover, ncgrns and the nut of the sugar pine, varied with fish when in season. Wild animals have, of cours(!, been plen- tier before mining commenced, but their miserably con- structed bows and arrows, plainly show, that they could never have materially depended on the chase for support. Their method of trapping and cooking grasshoppers at the same time, shows much ingenuity; and is, to them at least, a pleasing and exciting pastime, and very amusing for an outsider to look at. Half a dozen holes are dug in a clover flat — where the game abound — as close to each other as possible, and about the shape and size of an inverted beehive. They then place closely around the holes, a ring of dried brush, which they set fire to, and then commences the ]i^xnt — the oldest patriarch of the tribe, condescending to v.'ork witli the squav/s, and ^'fights his battles o'er again" with rdl the oithusiasm of sixteen. They commence by forming a circle round the fire, at a distance of some hundred feet. Each is armed with a bush, with which they drive their victims before them, as they gradually contract the circle and approach the fire. One hop through the fire, and the wings, horns and claws, are stripped off, and they drop into the holes, unable to escape from their pursuers, who then clear away the circle of flame and have a luscious banquet on the crispy crickets. In the thick of the season, they dry the superabundance for winter use i- t.'i 7M RAMBLINOS IN CALIFORNIA. and the«c, to;:,.ther with flour ananufacturcd from ncorna — poimdod in a huge mortar .scooped out of a solid granite Icdgc-are the staple articles of the lodge, during the un- productive seasons of the year. The squaws are often despatched with their pans, and a large horn spoon, c.jled a cuchara, to find gold dust; but the proceeds of their success in this empk.yment are never w.sted-except on feast days-for eatables, but are ex- pended in adorning the persons of their lor.ls, and moistening their interior, with tlie rankest description of cheap whiskey. It is not considered safe generally, to leave much gold in the sluices at night, in the district where Indians are plenty, for it is said that the ladies prefer prospecting in a riffle box, to trying their chances on a natural bank; but they are often blamed for such little tricks, when, if the truth were known, the real perpetrator resides at the best hotel, wears kid gloves, and carries a six ounce gold chain on his vest of French velvet. rART III. FACP] OF THE COUNTRY, AGRICUL- TURE AND LABOR. The history of California has of late years become familiar to most readers, through the American newspapers, and it would be in exceeding bad taste, for nie to make a repetition of the infliction upon my patient readers, by giving them State extracts, from narratives founded on fact at best, after deluding the gentle creatures with the idea of hearing an interesting retrospect of wanderings, through the longth and breadth of this romantic land. Deeming, nevertheless, that a little statistical and descriptive infor- mation, concerning the principal localities ;.i;d towns, individually — places heretofore unknown almost, except in name — may prove interesting and probably more instructive than a general topographical sketch ol" the whole — always, and necessarily, vague and contradictory; I will endeavor to do so v/ith as little prolixity as possible, and those who deem the subject dry or unprofitable, may either skip .l*art the Third, or devoutly ask for patience. -:' ■■■„■ ■^■*i'|^*--.A*"r-.., ?2p8r- 80 HAMBLlNciS IN CALIF(»KMA. It will be (.bserved by any one who takes tlie trouble of consultinii; a iiki|i, ainl comparing the statistics of a,t:rieul- tiire, 111 th.- various counties north and south, toirother with the nuniber(.f inhabitants in eaeh— that the southern portion of Alta California, possesses an overwhelniino- ad- vantaire, in the production of every description of vegeta- bles and domestic animals, as well as, in the important item of females and children. This criterion, though, of Itself, will not be sufficient to form a solid judgment upon their respective merits— for the reason that the people of the south, with fe- r exceptions, are employed in farm- ing occupations, the o her resources being but of seeondary consequence, while the vilages are wide apart and unim- portant in .size. In the north— on the contrary— at least one half arc residents of towns, and the chief portion of the other lialf are i.iiners; so Itiat the proportion eni-- ployed on farms— or ranches as they are termed— is but trifling, and the proportion of productions to the indi- vidual, with its high value, will show an exceedingly satis- factory reward to the tiller of the soil. It would thus seem, that the upper portion of the State was thrice blessed, with a fruitful soi|^ mineral and commercial ad- vantage ^ together with an ample supply of timber, botli . )r home consumption and foreign supply. But, if we examine more minutely into detail, we shall' become fully convinced, that the North can never rival the South as an agricultural producer, and that the latier is especially , and providentially intended, to become the feeder of the former. It may appear a matter of no im- portance in a genera] sense, as to which portion has the advantage in this respect, the whole territory being con- ■olidated under one government. But I have been thus RAMTU.INOS [N CALIFORNIA. 81 induced to toucli upon the relative powers of the two portions, on account of the dissatisfaction and angry dis- cussion formerly raised between them, and sure to be re- sumed on every possible occasion, pending the policy of a separation. And when it is considered, the different— not to say contradictory — legislation required for each and the great territory, separated so much by wastes, there is but little doubt that such a course will finally be adopted and become mutually advantageous in the end; at least it will be much mon^ satisfoctory to the population south of a line running east of San Francisco. For as the majority are emigrants from the Slave States, thei. great desire could then be accomplished, of introducing slavery into the new State, a desideratum, which, however devoutly wished for by them, at the present time is a moral impos- sibility, on account of the enormous number of opponents to the ''peculiar institution," to be found in the mines and cities of the north. The mining counties are never likely, indeed, to sup- port themselves with their present inhabitants, because that, in the aggregate, the amount of arable land is very scarce— and the consumers bear a very disproportionate majority to the producers— and as the farming land is principally confined to river flats, whore the air is rank with miasma, and liable to flood each winter, the process of settling goes on but slowly, and it is not considered by the wise ones, as a very safe or profitable investment for capital or labor. Vast tracts of land still remain available to operative farmers, and the market is mostly a fair one, while but little difficulty is likely to exist on the score of title, for the Spanish grants are but few, and present pos- session is almost certain to secure an undisturbed title u 82 RAMIJL!N'(iS IN CALIFORNIA. wlic.i the land is in tlic market— by the occupant takinj? it at government valuation. But on the whole, however, the lower portion of tlie State offers by far the ojreatcr inducements to families intendin- to settle, when the Mexican irrants are con- firmed, or rejected; for good land is abundant still, at nominal prices, and although produce ranges much lower in value than in the mineral country, the market is gone- rally good, and the labor of tilling the rich virgin vaFleys, is comparatively light. On account of the large compact tracts, settlements and society are fast improving, and communication by rapid means of transport, will grow apace on tliese rich level plains. The climate of the main portion of California, may be reckoned, at least, as among the most delightful on the globe. For, except on a few overflowed grounds— where bilious diseases are prevalent— consumptions, rheumatism, fevers, and every sort of epidemic, are almost unknown' except through undue exposure. Bright suushijie in a sky like Italy's, and healthy breezes, are sureties for three- fourths of the year. The remainder of the season is variable, but since the heavy freshets of '52, it has never rained in one winter, more than sufficient to nioderately moisten the soil and supply the minoi's with water for sluicing. Early in March, the bleak summits of the hills begin to clothe themselves with the richest verdure, and the cattle hie to their tops, where the first fresh grass begins to spring. They then gradually descend towards the plains, as the sun makes hay on the high grounds, and at last are driven to the swails and tules. But they in their turn scorch and wither, buueath the uninterrupted glare of the sun, and the t jntinued months of unmoistened liAMlJLlNMiS IN CAIJFORNIA. 83 winds. For a (juartcr of a year this natural liay is the only provender to be found ; but crisp, dry, and tasteless as it appears, it is, in reality, nourishing- and palatable, for flocks of all kinds cat it with much apparent relish, and keep nearly in C((ual condition as when it is fresh, for it still retains niucli of its juices, inconsequence of never being wet by a single shower of rain. A large party of us once arrived at a lonely valley, in the county of Los Angeles, at which we intended to remain some days. Tiie horses were tired and hungry ; so, after watering them, we made each fast to a picket, stuck in the ground — with a rope twelve feet in length — and supplied them with a small quantity of barley, for the ground looked bare, and black as a freshly ploughed field — offering I thought one of the most discouraging prospects imagin- able to a famished horse. In the morning, I proceeded to my steed, with his breakfast, but was extremely surprised at the manner in which he kicked up his heels, and the ineffable scorn with which he treated my hospitable ad- vances. The ground was covered witli something that looked iike coarse black dust, and as I watched the incli- nation of my companion's nose, I saw him move his lips, as though he was going through the form of eating, in ac- tual mockery. Surprised at his actions, I seized a handful of the dust, and after an examination of its nature, found it to be a very superior description of clover seed, and for many miles in every direction, the ground . literally covered — to the .^epth of nearly an inch — with this excel- lent provender, the straw having completely crumbled into powder, under the influence of the \r < . summer. herd of Spanish cattle, that I saw immediately after, proved their good cheer, by their sleek hides and rumiuationH, 84 RAMBMNGS IN CALIFORNIA. an.] we found it unnecessary to remove the pickets but twice during the week of our stay. I saw the same valley in the ensuing spring, and so rank and tall was the clover --all then m blossom-that it was a matter of extreme difliculty to pass through it on foot. There is great similarity in the regular variations of the seasons throughout the State, and the great apparent dif- tcrcnces to be found, owe their origin much more to local causes than to latitude. The southern valleys have of course the least changes in temperature, and preserve an extraordinary degree of iiiildness the major portion of the year. The coldest season i. in March, about the first cessation of the rains. The^ lands lying west of the coast range, and those bordering on the extensive bay of San Francisco, are greatly subjected to cold N. W. winds throughout the summer season, and strangely enough, the winter is gene- rally pleasanter throughout. Many portions of the north have great extremes of heat and cold, occasioned by the great and sudden elevation of the hills ; and it is not un- common, to see the herbage springing up in the valleys, green and fresh, while twenty miles up in the mountains, ditches are frozen, and all mining operations brought to a stand, with snow ten feet deep. I append to these short remarks— touching the climate —a few meteorological observations I made at San Luis Obispo, during part of the months of January and Febru- ary, 1^54 ; and as this place is nearly midway of the State, the table may give some idea of a California winter-^ although, as a general thing, the climate inland is more Jiable ^o sudden changes, and greater extremes of heat and cold. r RA>U$L[NGS IN CALIFORNIA. 85 are DATl'; Jan. 20.M 21." '22.011 23.0t> 24.011 2y.M 2f).0H 27. M 28.08 29.0 K 30.M 31.0i^ Feb, I.OR 2.M ;j.os 4.0U r),M 7. OS 8.0 K 9.M WINDS. : 1 nAiii >M. TltlillMOM. Direc. Force. Inch. Dec. 27 Air. 40 Uiit 45 Wet 39 .SK 1 30 N W 4 li 14 41 45 39 N .( ii 2S 47 51 45 S K .) 02 r^■2 53 51 U 1 u 03 'A 52 51 >■ \v t> 14 :,H 53 i' ( ii ;! ii 24 4S 51 41 a 1 ■> 3t) 70 54 50 NE 1 ;( 19 6S 34 54 ii ;j '• 19 05 53 511 N ^y 1 •• 20 M 54 53 a 1 2',t 9S 59 50 50 ., 1 .1 70 50 53 49 SK 1 30 00 i 50 50 51 N \V 3 .( 04 55 .Ji 23 i< 2 ii 05 1 53 •JO 52 8 K 1 U OS ; 60 50 58 t> •; 12 ! 0.3 50 50 a 1 ti 11 i 55 54 51 i. o u 0.") I 05 56 54 CLOUD". WEATHER. ■;triit. Cir. C. S. Kur: From.' K.C. uont' Cir. Ivuni Cir. S F. :!'■< ■v.t.-t t'cntlts S '■' .>.,iii.lly& tliroal'ng .V ,( Drizzly rain. •• ;Slln'Vfry. " iMmp iiiul fuggy. SE Mild and I'lcasant Clear and bracing Very tiuo. '■^ky n.Ml it low.-riii^ I'leasant. Foggy. Liiworin^;- Small rain. Very iiut. Rnin. As to the ([uantity and <juality of horticultural pro- duction.s to the aero, they arc seldom equalled, and probably never excelled elsewhere ; and most descriptions of fruit — where a trial has lieen made — grow with all the luxuriance of a tropical climate ; amongst the vegetables that grow with peculiar excellence, may be mentioned particularly — barley, potatoes, onions, cabbage, melons, cucumbers, tomatoes, <S:c., and indeed, almost every de- scription of garden vegetables. But a regular and com- plete system of irrigation, is imperatively required to conduct horticulture with success, except on the low un- healthy intervals of the vSacraniento river. Santa Clara is perhaps the most important agricultural county in the country, for great progress had already been made, under the surveillance of the old Mexican priests, prior to its annexation to the American Republic. Its productions are already extensive, but a serious drawback to its prosperity exists in the large Mexican grants that a 2 86 RAMHL1NGS IN CALIFORNIA. cover much of its surface. These wide ranches-oftea covcnng many leagues-will continue to be no man's land, until a final decision has been made by the U. S. Court. For even among those confirmed by the board of commissioners, the chief part have been appealed from by tnc squatters ; and when the final decision is made, the next job will be the act of dispossession. This will be the most difficult feat of all ; for, assuredly they will not move an inch for the Sheriff— they are the militia themselves,— and as for the regular troops, why, if they unite— and they certainly would— they are better soldiers, and more numerous, than the whole standing army ex- isting in the State. Some of the shrewdest of the Mexi- cans are gradually granting deeds to the residents at low prices, and this is the only plan, possible, for them to escape complete robbery, for they have already discovered in more ways than one, the inefficiency of the govern- ment to protect the weak against the encroachments of the strong. It must be acknowledged, though, that many of the peo- ple have conscientious scruples touching the propriety of taking possession of that which is not theirs, and in con- sequence, great tracts of the richest alluvial deposit, con- tinue to be a wilderness, except at intervals where some hardy Ishmael has dared to pitch his tent, and shelter his household gods, in defiance of all prohibition, with his stout heart and brawny arms his only title. lu those portions where the titles arc indisputable, by coming into the possession of Americans, whether by pur- chase or matrimony— the latter seems in most favor— the amount of improvement is wondrous and beautiful. The tillable land— like most in the State- consists of a val- mm^. RAMBLING^ IN CALli'ORNIA. 87 ley, sometimes gently undulutiug, but in general, level almost as a billiard table, between two ranges of moun- tains, and studded with oak trees, like an English park. The valley varies in breadth^ from twenty miles to a few yards, where the two chains contract, and again expand it; and these valleys of variable breadth, running in length nearly north and south, and extending to the Mexican line, constitute nearly the whole of the farming land of the country. A mission was early made in Santa Clara by the tirst settlers, and as whites as well as Indians began to occupy the attention of the worthy fathers, two chapels of ease were soon erected for the accommodation of distant wor- shippers, during the severities of the winter season. There are now two bustling little towns at these chapels, and the chief part of the settlements are in their immediate neigh- borhood. The road from the little town of Santa Clara, to the city — or Paella of San Jose, a distance of four miles — is one of the most delightful imaginable. The ground is hard and smooth, and shaded through its whole extent by large trees on each side. They have been planted at regular intervals of five or six feet, and meeting above, they totally exclude the sun. The planters of these veterans, have long since mouldered into dust, for these kindly monuments of their benevolent labor, already bend to the march of time, and have the full appearance and bulk of centenarians. There are many vineyards in this county producing grapes of delicious flavor ; pears and peaches, too, are plentiful, but there are other places much excelling it in this branch of agriculture. Its population exceeds 10,000, and its greatest productions in 1855, were the follow- 88 ilAMBLlNGS IN CALIFORxNIA. ing:— onions in pounds, 800,000; eabbarre, (100,000; grape vines, 2r),000; barley in buslicls, 700,000; wheat' 100,000; potatoes, 500,000. \ have seen melons from this place, Aveighing over GO pounds, and cabbages 30 pounds. Santa Cruz county i.s divided from Santa Olara, by a long spur of the coast range, about ten miles in breadth. This ridge provides excellent pasture, and supplies in profusion, building and fencing material for both counties. The principal timber consists of pine, and a giL'antic species of cedar, called red wood. It is extremely light when dry, takes a very smooth finish, and scarcely shrinks at all, but it is rather soft, and too easily split, to make very good floors or furniture. Santa Cruz has probably the most uniform climate in the State, and although in close proximity to San Fran- cisco, might almost seem in another State. It is very small, and consists merely of a narrow strip upon the coast, from three to ten miles wide, and above 30 in length, but contains more arable ground than others of ten times its extent, [t has been styled by all admirers of California scenery, the garden of the world, and it really does appear to bear upon its youthful face, the world's first fresh fra- grance, as it came from its creator's hand. Flowers, blue sky, and sunshine, continue almost in an endless cycle, and th. :uild breezes of the Pacific, temper the harshness of every season. This circumstance gives it a great pre-eminence over all the other great agr-uiiural valleys, the principal of which are— Suisun, Napa, ^un Juse, Los Angeles, and the long reaching flats of the Sacramento -nd San Joaquin. A frost is rarely seen at any season, and snow is unknown, RAMBLINGS IN CALIFORNIA. 89 except when seen on the distant hills of the coast range, at rare periods. Thousands of acres in this valley are covered with luxuriant crops of wild oats, and large herds of half wild cattle are to be seen revelling on the luxury. Although owned and branded with the name of their proprietor, they are wild as deer, and frequently danger- ous to solitary footmen, who have often been gored to death by them, when without arms, or a tree in reach to escape to. Nearly every plant that is good for the food of man, the earth appears to bring forth kindly, and with the most trifling degree of cultivation, and things that in other less fortunate lands, would seem in the strongest contrast with each other, here grow amicably side by side, like a happy family ; grapes, and potatoes, currants, strawberries, and raspberries, with peaches, apricots and oranges, all flourishing as though indigenous to the soil. Art has done but little yet for this lovely valley, but na- ture has prepared it for much, and few who have labored in its generous soil, would willingly leave it for the sterile and harsher climate of the Atlantic seaboard. Santa Cruz, the county town, was a populous mission, but the coarsely built old church is now almost in ruins, and a great por- portion of the simple inhabitants, scattered or destroyed, through the unceasing persecutions of the American squatters. The county of San Joaquin, occupies a portion of the great valley of the same name, which lies between the mountains of the Sierra Nevada, and the Cast Range proper, running in length nearly N.W. and S.E., and averaging in breadth, aboul 40 miles. The soil for a mile or two back from the rivers, is extremely fertile, but the intermediate spaces are gravelly, and chiefly untit for 00 HAMHIJ.NdS LV I'.V UFORM A. cultivation. Dry Cvok, a s.null l.rnnch of the Mcxju- Iunni<«, divides this valley from that of the Saeramot.to, and tli(> important San Joaquin river runs for a loni^ dis- tance nearly in the centre of the valley, after its efflux from the mountains. The eonti-uity of the auricultural lands to the richest portion of the Calaveras and Tuolumne, .secures an unfailino- niarlcct to every spocicH of its varied productions ; all articles bcarin- nearly double the price that they would in Santa Cruz, or Santa Clara; but the pre- valence of fever and a-ue on the best land.s, deteriorates much from their value. The carrying, trade to the main portion of the southern mines, is of vast importance to this county, and the roads and bridges are the best in the State, the oravclly nature of the soil being a great ad- vantage in tlie lieavy rains of winter. Teaming is carried on in the grandest system, some of the waggons will hold upwards of eight tons, and are drawn by twenty mules, and the proprietor of even one team and waggon requires to be a man of some capital, for large team mules are worth 300 dollars each, and a waggon, about 81,500. The mules used arc of a very superior breed, and are much preferred to horses, from the fact that they require less attention to their wiints, and their powers of endurance beneath a hot sun. Earley, for feed, is the staple production on the river flats, and eiglity bushels to the acre is by no means an un- common crop. Potatoes weighing 81b, floury and sound, are plentiful; and cabbages and onions are grown in profusion, and sold at moderate prices, but the teamsters' and retailers' profits more than treble their value before they come into the hands of the consumers in the mines. Salmon and other fish arc caught in abundance in all the I RA.MlJLlNdS IN CALIFOKMA. 01 rivcTB, an<l tlio i»lains aro covered with wild liorses, elk, door, antelope, and ninnberles.s varieties of feathered jrauie. And although hunters are numerous, they have not mate- rially doereased their numbers ; hut so wild are they, that it rccjuires threat skill and ex[»eri(!ne(! to prosoeute the callin<^ with success. Many native Californians and Mexicans, employ themselves in eatel.ing wild horses, or Muataiujs, by driving them into traps or corrals — a sort of pound — where they lasw them, and then dispose of them to farmers and others, for S40 or §50 each. They can be broken to harness in u few weeks, but they are generally light, and apt to be treacherous for the whole their existence. The principal streams arc the San Joa<iuin, xMofjuelumne, Calaveras, and Stanislaus. The San Joaquin is navigable to Stockton, and much higher, during freshets, and is the grand trunk that receives nearly all the rivers of the coun- try, south of San Francisco bay. The Stanislaus, which separates this county from Tuolumne, has been very rich in its upper portion, and contains much profitable mining, even ten miles from its mouth; paying regularly in fine gold, so low as the foot hills, from %'l to $4 per day, to the hand. Stockton, Ca.storia, and Knight's Ferry are the only towns. Stockton was at one time the third in the State, but now contains only abcmt 400U inhabitants. It was at one time a depot of a fur company, and then occupied by a Mr. Webber, but was not permanently settled until the first your of the gold discoveries. It has been a great sufferer from fires and freshets, and it is most likely from this cause that few importing merchants reside in it ; and goods from the interior pass through from Sau Francisco, ( 'I IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) V. // {/ y. •^^ A y>- Q, i/.x fA 1.0 I.I 1.25 If iiM m ^ IM |||||22 '-■■ "■-■ ''"12.0 1.4 !l.6 m. <^ i?^ -# /# <>* ^^N J^A m /^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716) 873-4503 :\ \ % .V O .^^ #S %^ "C*" ^'^% '%"■ if M^ ^ Q, i/.x r /. 02 RAMBLINGS IN CALIFORNIA. without profit to any except the carriers. It is situated one mile from the San Joaquin, on a sluggish but deep stream, called Stockton Slough, and possesses the public Lunatic Asylum, which is one of the finest buildings in the State. Castoria— sometimes called French Camp— is also on a slough, and was an old post of the Hudson Bay Company. It is small but very lively town, particularly during the rainy season, from the great superiority of its roads. The whole population of this county is about 8000. The County of Napa is convenient to San Francisco, and contains the most beautiful and healthy valleys of the northern counties. It is fast settling up, though the In- dians as yet fdrm the greater moiety of the population.— They are, however, principally domesticated, by employing them on ranches, and very useful they prove as herds.— Their remuneration is not very much, for as none of them are troubled with the luxuriant ideas of their brethren in the gold fields, they have never had the opportunity of making themselves useful at other employments. Napa supplies the markets in San Francisco bay, with large quantities of produce— barley, wheat, and beef are the most important About $40,000 are invested in quicksilver mining, but the gold placers are not very pro- fitable. There is a mountain of very strange appearance near the coast, standing quite aloof from any range— it is visible more than 50 miles off. There are great numbers of hot sulphur springs in Napa, many of which are said to possess extraordinary medicinal powers, and are much re- sorted to, by invalids, from all parts of the country. The Napa river, after running in a southerly course through the centre of the valley beari)ig its name, empties RAMBIJNGS IN CALIFORNIA. 93 into Pablo bay. It is navigable nearly 12 miles. Putas takes its source in the North, and after watering the de- lightful little valley Berryesa, courses its way rapidly through a narrow mountain gorge, all trace of it is finally lost in the vast tule marshes of the Sacramento. There are great numbers of romantic looking caverns ; but the most interesting curiosities, by far, are the geysers, or hot sulphur springs, situated a few miles north of Napa city, in the interior of the mountains. Their diameter varies from nine inches to twelve feet. They are perpetually boiling, and the water frequently spouts upwards more than twenty-five feet. Powerful streams of burning gas issue from great fissures in the rocks, and the sound it makes in its exit, is louder than the escape of steam from the largest boiler. The water is all strongly impregnated with sulphur, and the smell of the gas is extremely pun- gent. Napa city and Suscol are the chief towns, and the whole population, ranges near 3000 — 1600 of whom are Indians. Sacramento, which contains the second city in the State, is bounded on its Western side by the river of the same name, which is second in importance to but one on the entire western coast' of North or South America Its resources are completely agricultural^ for there are no mines within its boundaries that will defray the cost of working. It has 10,000 head of horned cattle, and 5000 mules. Horticulture is carried on much more extensively than elsewhere, and its productions of onions, cabbage, carrots, parsnips and turnips, are nearly equal to all the rest of the State. Even so early as 1854, there were 307 acres in melons alone, and their value, together with the other productions in the market, amounted to more than I 94 RAMBLINGS IN CALIFORNIA. half a million of dollars. The arable land is low and rich, requiring no irrigation ; but the air is extremely un- wholesome. The city of Sacramento, to which the river is navigable for large ships, is intended for a perfect checkerboard, as the streets have been surveyed, but in consequence of the dilatoriness of the people in building, when compared with the expertness of the engineers, the whole board was completed before the former had filled up a decent double corner. The city as now existing forms a T ; a few streets parallel with the river and levee, forming the top, and these, bissected by two main streets of great length, complete the figure. The streets are all numbered eastwardly from the levee, 1, 2, 3, &c., but although laid out to nearly a hundred, they exist only in a fertile imagination after 12th street, which consists of a pig-sty and hay stack placed tete-a-tete. North and South they are named alphabetically, and although they are all particularly short, they already nearly consume the twenty- six letters. J, is a noble street, a mile and a half long; both it and the levee, or 1st street, were at one time de- corated with live oak trees through their whole extent, but during the universal license enjoyed about the periods of flood and fire, 8onie of the free a»d enlightened ones took the liberty of appropriating them all for culinary purposes. There was something very refreshing in their appearance, particularly in Hummer, ai- they dotted and cooled the surface of the thirsty prairie. Greenly, and luxuriantly, they spread their gnarled and scraggy branches over the fevered citizens that hurried past. Each whispering zephyr that faintly winged its flight along the thirsty soil, seemed revivified and rustled once more into life by the hardy old veterans, The city seems to have almost owed RAMBLINGS IN CALIFORNIA- 95 its existence to these trees.. The weary pioneer from the far off banks of the Mississippi, rested and refreshed him- self, his family, and his cattle, beneath their kindly shel- ter. A sense of home grew up in his bosom, and an attachment to the spot was engendered. He pitched his tent on the flower-covered banks of the noble river, and other rough but sympathizing hearts, that clung instinc- tively to nature's loveliness, followed in his train, and soon, each tree sheltered a canvas hut, and smiling faces. Trade gradually pushed itself in, and during the first year of the gold mania, the fairy city arose like a fungus. It is still progressing in spite of its disasters ; and the num- ber of its fire-proof buildings, is only equalled by the neighboring city on the bay. The original Contra Costa, lies immediately opposite the city of San Francisco, on the north side of the bay. It has more than doubled its population in the last three years. It has been lately divided into three counties, and their fruitful soil, together with their admirable position to a good market, hold out great expectations for its future advancement. The arable land all lies on the slope, be- tween the coast range and the bay, and is of a very supe- rior description. Settlers keep pouring in, probably faster than in any other of the agricultural counties, and villages are springing up on every point of advantage on the bay open to steam navigation. The hills on the background are filled with redwood, where shingle makers and rail splitters have heretofore found lucrative employment, but they are now thinning it out very fast. The land, although good, is not adapted to fruit, or the more delicate species of vegetables, on account of the harsh winds that blow constantly from the bay during the summer. The prin- 96 RAMBLINQS IN CALIFORNIA. cipal Streams are the Jacento, San Ramon, San Pablo, and San Leandro, but they are all unimportant. The towns are Martinez—the seat of justice— Squatter Town, and Oakland. Oakland is delightfully situated en a little harbor of the bay, and in hourly communication by steam, with the metropolis, a dwelling and watering place for the wealthier citizens, as Brooklyn is to New York. It is by no means uncommon to see several hundred acres in one potatoe-patch, and forty or fifty men employed in ex- tracting from the soil the dry, and bulky excrescences. Monterey, which joins San ,a Clara on the South, is altogether agricultural and pastoral, but it is much cov- ered by old Spanish grants. It has about 4000 inhabi- tants, two thirds of whom are white, and its surface covers about 400 square miles. It is naturally divided into three districts — separated from each other by ridges of mountains, but they all communicate by passes, and constitute portions of the main valley, that extends the whole length of the State. Salinas and Carmel extend to the coast, San Juan is in the interior. Each of these contained a mission for many years, orchards of pear trees were planted, and much land brought into a state of culti- vation by domesticated Indians. The towns are San Juan and Monterey. The former is a very sleepy little place in the midst of plenty. Monterey, 80 miles south of San Francisco, was at one time the capital of both the Cali- fornias, and the largest town, but has made very little progresj since annexation ; and its adobe houses and muffled nuns, seem not yet fully aware of the fact, that they have the supreme felicity of being an actual portion of the free and universal nation. The bay and scenery of Monterey is the prettiest on RAMBLINOS IN CALIFORNIA. 97 the coast. The harbor, though small, has tolerable shel- ter, and is a port of entry. But the grass grows in the bonded stores of the custom house ; the collector's time is consumed amidst the click of billiard balls ; the doctor's, in prescribing cogniac — to himself; the Nantucket har- bor-master's in watching the sjyarm spout in the offing ; the lawyer's, in creating dog fights ; and the commander of the fort sits on a rotten gun-carriage, watching with a placid and gratified eye, the process of incubation per- formed in the rusty bombs, by his Shanghai liens. San Louis Obispo, lies south of the county of Monterey, and borders on the Pacific ; it has no mines, and agricul- ture is in a very backward state. Of a surface of nearly 600,000 acres, only 50,000 are unclaimed, and the white inhabitants number but 400. The ground is held in 37 Ranches under Mexican titles, and is fit for little except pasturage, to which it is best adapted. It is so inconve- nient to market, that the rightful owners have not been much annoyed by squatters, and the name of American is much less detested by the native Californians, than in other counties, where they have experienced a greater share of persecution. It contains 50,000 head of cattle and horses, and has a port or rather a roadstead on the coast, but no harbor. The heavy sea that continually thunders in from the wide reach of the ocean, even in the calmest weather, makes the calls of the steamer rare, on account of the extreme danger of landing freight through the rolling surf. There was a mission formed here at an early period, nine miles from the coast in a very pretty locality. The lands pertaining thereto, have, of course, been confiscated, but a small village — the only one in the county — has sprung up around the ruins of the ancient chapel. 1 2 98 RAMBLINQS IN CALIFORNIA. Santa Barbara-containing, chiefly, portions of the coast range-extends to the coast, and is extremely mountainous. It has a pretty little town bearing its name, on a small roadstead, at which steamers touch in their weekly trips between San Francisco and San l>ie<.o The soil IS not generally well suited to cultivation, nor even susceptible of irrigation, from its extremely rough and uneven surface. It is called, however, one of the best grazing counties, and supports enormous herds of cattle, but it is capable of feeding, naturally, five times IS present amount. It ha« several streams emptying into the ocean from the mountains, but so near does the range run to the coast, that none of them has length or volume, sufficient to dignify it by the name of river. The Santa Barbara is the largest, which, after running a length of fovty-hve miles from its source, discharges itself into the ocean. San Buenaventura has a course of thirty-two miles, and enters the Sea, not far from the ancient mis- sion of San Buenaventura. Santa Inez is upwards of sixty miles in length, its mouth is within a few miles of 1 oint Concepcion, the principal land mark and light house on the whole coast. The mountains in this county, frc quently attain the height of 4500 feet, and one of them contains a small volcano, which smokes at long interval. Ihe sea in this neighborhood abounds with many varie- ties of excellent fish, among which may be enumerated corvinas, blackfish, mackarel, crawfish, sardines, clams, and oysters. But little improvement can be hoped for in this region. Ihe Spanish grants cover a great surface, and their old habits and customs predominate over all others. Even the settlers from the land of enlightenment have retro- RAMULINGS IN CALIFORNIA. 99 m graded in their ideas of morality, and descended to the barbarous amusements of bull baiting and cock fightinc a favorite Sunday recreation— whore whiskey, profanity, and fipjhtinr^ abound, as a natural result. It is really astonishing to witness the extreme interest taken by every class in the community, and the money that changes purses, on the result of au engagement be- tween two mean looking speckled fowls. From the richest Kanchcro to the humblest peon— the priest, and his hearers, all throng to the soul exciting combat. The padre has most commonly a notorious sporting taste, and great celebrity for his judgment, in the cut of a comb, or the curve of a spur; and on those sweet 8abb:ith even- ings Ms rusty cassock may invariably be seen, surrounded by a knot of sporting men, whose dark eyes gleam with fierce delight as he details his experience and opinions of the gentle craft of cock fighting. The inhabitants of this county number 4000, more than one half being native Californians. San J)iego, although of small mineral or agricultural value, is nevertheless possessed of many interesting and important points of attraction. Embracing, as it does, within its boundaries, the southern extremity of the State, and in absolute contact with the lower peninsula it is therefore the most thoroughly Mexican, of all the counties in Alta California. The face of the country may be set down as three- fourths barren, sandhills in the front, reaching to the coast, interspersed with some fertile valleys of no great extent; and in the rear of a great sandy desert, many miles in length, reaching to the river Colorado, which empties itself into the Gulf of California, at its extreme northern I !l 100 RAMBLINOS Iff CALIFORNIA. terminus. The bleak hills in the front, have not a single tree upon their slopes to give variety or breAk the uni- versal sameness of the landscape. The only appearance of vegeiAblc life, are two or three varieties of dwarf bushes, or chajypnrel, that grow around their bases, forming in some places an impassable thicket, and make very desirable covers for Grizzlys and California lions. There are only about 500 acres of land in cultivation, and yet it supports quite a respectable number of beeves and other domestic animals. The town of San Diego ontemptible as it now appears, was at one time the second in importance, and although possessing a fine little harbor for the reception of small craft, it has deceived less accession by emigration, than any other of the small towns on the coast, between it and San Francisco, a distance of 600 milec. On examining the town, the increase makes itself plainly visible, the light airy Yankee style of architecture, con- trasting strongly with the heavy jail-like adobes of the natives. An air of primitive simplicity still hovers around the old town, and the good folks of the place still seem to retain, that easy comfortable way of letting the morrow look out for itself, so refreshing for a lazy person to con- template, and so strongly characteristic of the Spaniard, be it in the old world or the new. By the way— although in possession of all the less pre- possessing attributes of their ancestors, as far as haughti- ness, idleness, and bigotry, are concerned— they possess but little of the heroic disposition and fine features of the old Castilian. And, indeed, they approach so much nearer, in manners, features, and complexion, to the aborigines themselves, as will lead to the conclusion that i RAMBLINOS IN CALIFORNIA. 101 but little of the unadulterated Spanish stock remains among them, and the same may be "aid of nearly all the Spanish settlements, both in North and South America, particularly among the lower classes ; and this hypothesis may serve as a very excellent a.id sufficient reason for the semi-barbarism, into which the chief part of all the Spanish Americas have fallen, since their separation from the mother country. The old town of San Diego, with a population of not more than 1500, can still boast of its plaza, &nd its priest. The latter, when I saw him, was a fine looking old specimen of a race now nearly extinct. His broad, bow- window figure, showed a strong partiality for the good things of this life; but the kindly and reverend expres- sion of his handsome countenance, bespoke the man with conscience unsullied, and mind at peace with his maker and fellow men. It was quite a pleasing and interesting sight, when the padre chose the great square of the town for his lecture room, and gathered around him his bare- legged and youthful disciples. Wild, and uncouth, as they were, his gentle, though perhaps superstitious teachings, seeined to exercise a strong and humanizing influence over their half savage natures, no way improved, I must say, by their recent intercourse with the pink of progress, in the person of Uncle Sam ; for bad and false as their tenets may be, which enthral them, they are infinitely to be preferred, to the broad Atheism, openly acknowledged by the chief part of the intelligent strangers who have cast their lot in the midst of this simple people. San Diego is a favorite resort for horse stealers and suspicious looking rprasers, or half-breeds, chiefly from its remoteness and the uncertain communication with the r^., 102 RAMBLINOS IN CALIFORNIA. more civilized districts, besides its convenience to the wilds of the neighboring republic. It is also a depot for cattle and sheep, wliich are purchased in small droves in Mexico, and collected here to be driven or taken by steam to San Francisco or the mines. The climate is delightful and regular, and bears a strong and favorable resemblance to the balmiest portions of Italy, or Sicily, but it is even less oppressive and much more uniform, the thermometer ranging at summer-heat with little variation through tho entire season. In '54 but one physician existed in the place, and he died of a broken-heart, occasioned, it waa said, by a want of practice. He complained to me in the most affecting way, of the citizens' obstinacy in adhering to robust health. " And," said he, " old age itself, will not procure me a solitary patient ; for in place of expiring in a christian- like manner, in the respectable bosom of pills and phials, I believe the unconscionable heathens gradually contract themselves into a dry rattle box, and take wing on a south- easter." There are plenty of shrivelled up Indians to be seen tottering along, who have forgotten their age, but who were men and women, and took instruction under the Mission priests, more than seventy years ago, and look like the dried corpses, from the Capuchinf- of Palermo, revivified to rebuke and warn the people of this wicked little town. But emigrants — however delighted at the salubrity of the climate — are mostly in search of something more, even though the Heavens were laughing gas ; and as there is little else to offer here, the mushroom settlement, made during the '49 excitement, has remained with little in- I \ 1 f a ^J RAMBLINdS IN CALIFORNIA 103 '1 crease, and a dullncHs that lasts the whole year is rarely or never disturbed. The main prop of the pliice lias been the quarter-master's station, which maintains a lar^^e num- ber of people and mules. They are constantly employed in transporting provisions and military stores across the desert, to the fort on the Colorado— a distance of more than 200 miles. This, together with the Texian emigration, through New Mexico, and the trade of Los Angeles and Monterey, is sufficient to support two large-sized steamers, that call here weekly and proceed North to San Francisco. The whole population of the county is about 4000 — only one-fifth of whom, under the most liberal construction, may be called white. Los Angeles— .inf/^ice. The Angels— is about the oldest settled mission in California, and possesses ground in the highest state of cultivation of any in the State. Still, the amount of American improvement has been but trivial, for the same cause which has been such a bug-bear in nearly all the southern counties, viz : the Spanish grants, which cover more than three-fourths of the whole surface ; and as the leagues of land have been doled out with no un- sparing hand, by the Mexican government, the number of proprietors is comparatively small— except in the imme- diate neighboriiood of the city of Los Angeles, where land is laid out in the .smalle*it possible lots, like a patchwork quilt, for the purpose of forming vineyards. It is fully expected that land will soon be purchased at moderate rates ; for to effect this object, the legislature will— it is thought— lay on a heavy tax. This will most likely compel the Bancheros to dispose of their property, from their inability to pay liigh rates, on vast tracts which are used only for pasture. It is generally the extremity ri f) 104 RA.MBLINGS IN CALIFORNIA. of foolishness for people to place any dependence, or make any cal' ilations, founded on the good intentions of the people's representatives, in California. But men of expe- rience believe this, from the nature of the obligation itself — arguing from precedent — that the government had never been known, since its formation, to shirk the promise of a tax, and indeed, in some instances graciously doubled it — without even receiving a vote of thanks from the favored people. Nearly the whole of the country is applicable to agri- cultu^-' ad much of it is extremely rich, and it will doul ( become in time, of great iuiportaoce as a producer. At int present time, vast herds of stock roam at large over the great treeless and undulating plains. The soil is deep, and free from stone, and produces an excellent and un- limited supply of wild clover of an exceedingly nutritious nature. But the vineyards and orchards in and around the city, are the main support, and their productions are the staple exports of the region. The city of Los Angeles contains a population in the neighborhood of 6000 — more than half the people of the county — and is at the present time, the most respectable and flourishing of all the Spanish towns in tlie State. It has — like all the rest — a large plaza or sfjuare, from whence runs the main street, which finally forks and becomes two — leaving a block of build- Jnj^s between, ending in a point like the delta of a river. The remainder of the streets look as though they followed the sinuosities of cattle tracks, and are often concluded by a dead wall, or the impenetrable leafy screens of a vine- yard. The houses are, with few exceptions, built of mud-brick, roofed with asphaltum, and are extremely oool and com- RAMBLINGS IS CALIFORNIA. 105 fortable during the lioats of summer. There is a small mount in rear of the town, a few hundred feet high, and as there is no other elevation to interrupt the view to the coast — a distance of twenty-seven miles — the prospect is extraordinary, and possesses much both of interest and beauty. Far away to the west may be seen the distant ocean, con- stantly covered in the dry season by a thin white haze, that gives distant objects an indistinct and spectral appearance. The broad open plain between, is dotted with countless cattle but no habitation of man is visible for miles on miles, save a small mound like a molehill, from whence issues a thin column of smoke, near a fringe of wood that borders on the far off river. A long "bull team" guided by ome strapping hoosier, flounders along, with freight from the port of San Pedro, half hid at intervals by the clouds of dust raised by the hoofs of his wearied cattle. The smart stage passes him like a whirlwind, rattles through the town in slashing style and deposits its occupants at the door of the hotel ; the miserable wretches unrecog- nizable by their nearest and dearest, beneath the thick coating of red dust they have acquired in their transit which seitles impartially on every thread, and fills each pore of their tender cuticles. But the change from the shrivelled country to the fresh greenness and sparkling brooks of the vineyards con- tiguous to the city, is like the spell of an enchanter. Every sylvan scene of rural felicity would appear realized^ when first entering the green and shady lanes, that com- merce to show themselves within a radius of four miles. These lanes intersect each other in every possible direc- tion, like a llosumond's bower, and experience is essential K lOG RAMBLINGS IN CALIFORNIA. I': II to thread their mazes with success. They are delightfully shaded by the close willow fences on each side, so thickly matted that a bird could scarcely find ingress, and the sight over the gate, after fifty dogs are pacified, is a per- fect wilderness of every description of luscious fruit- grapes of every variety, figs, peaches of mammoth dimen- sions and downy softness, apricots, pineapples and oranges, and great bell-like pears show themselves by thousands in ever corner. Little streams glide through and lave the sides of enormous melons, that topple with their weight and crush the defenceless pomegranate; while birds of pretty plumage and musical throats, keep flitting from branch to branch. And this is not one scene, but a sam- ple of hundreds, nor hardly of a season, for it may be found nine months in succession; and even in the bleakest of the winter season, the hardier vegetables of a northern latitude flourish in the greatest luxuriance. The number of vines in Los Angeles and its suburbs is 750,000, and the average yield is 51bs. of grapes to each vine. About two million pounds are annually shipped to San Francisco, from the port of San Pedro. The remain- der are partly consumed in the neighborhood, and partly in the manufacture of wine and brandy ; large quantities of which arc made annually, but are as yet principally kept in store to acfjuire age. The Champagne is famous for its eff'ervescence, fruity flavor, v'\d elevating properties. Beef cattle are worth from 320 to $80 per head, and pay well for driving in large droves to the northern mar- kets. Hemp and tobacco were formerly raised to some extent, and shipped to Mazatlan and San Bias in Mexico; but of late years their chief attention has been turned to articles of home consumption. There is a very extraor- I RAMBLINGS IN CALIFORNIA. 107 I dinary sprinir of Asphaltum within a few miles of the city, where the pitch boils up incessantly, the whole covering two acres of land. It is much used for raaking roofs for the houses. The roof is flat and excludes the rain sufficiently well, but has a very dirty and slovenly appearance, during the hot weather of July and August j for it runs down during the warm portion of the day, and congealing at night, each house is adorned with black icicles hanging from the eaves, more than three feet long. There are many salt and sulphur mines; the latter chiefly exist on a tract of country owned and occupied by a Mor- mon settlement. It is called San Bernardino, and has hteiy been set apart to form another county. Monte and San GabAvi'i are two thriving little towns in fertile dis- tricts, and arc fast filling up with emigrants from the old western States. There is a little island twenty miles from the coast, in a south-westerly direction from San Pedro, named Cata- lina. It is very barren except in a few scattered valleys, and its productions little more than a coarse stunted grass, {Mid its general uninviting surface would seem to mark it out as afflicted with perpetual sterility. Yet some experimentalist unknown, but supposed to be Captain Cook, lauded a, few goats on the stony and inhospitable island. For many a long year they existed and increased their numbers, free and uuharrassed by dogs, and the knives of butchers. But, alas, for them ! A speculating son of Esculapius, finding time hang heavily on his hands, took a trip from the neighboring coast to see if something would " turn up," and as his eye fell upon the bearded fathers of the flock, the desire of dominion grew up in his breast, and he at once constituted 108 RAMBLINOS IN CAMFORNIA. ii himself sole " monarch of ;tll he surveyed." He resided sufficiently long to establish some color of a claim, though his friends regarded the project with ridicule, as the evi- dent proof of deranged intellect. But subsequently, events in the shape of a comfortable independence, proved the adventurer's sanity, as well as sealed the fate of the whole goat fraternity ; for, in a few months he made a transfer of his interest in them, to a San Francisco house, at the rate of $4 per head, and as they numbered 20,000, he was soon enabled to abdicate his throne, and retire to the calm en- joyment ol private life. Tulare is a large territory in the south, extending from the coast counties to the eastern limits of the State. It is, generally speaking, a vast and dreary wilderness, cov- ered with a thick coarse rush called Tv^r, from whence the county derived its name. It is the grand rendezvous for wild horses, cattle, and game in every variety ; anS the white inhabitants--wlio only number about 300 — prin- cipally occupy themselves in the chase. Grrizzlies have been caught alive in this region weighing 2,600 lbs. ; and wild cats, lions, and cayotas, abcand. Tulare lake is the largest in the State, and receives the tribute of many mountain streams, but has no apparent exit. The county of 31arin is agricultural, and contains about 1500 persons, 1000 of whom are white. The amount of its productions and invested capital, will compare favor- ably with many containing a much greater population. The amount of capital invested in brick-making and lum- ber alone, may be estimated at $300,000. About 3000 acres are in cultivation, and the climate proves very kind to yams and various species of fruit, of which latter it will soon be an extensive producer. There are no minerals, RAMBLIIS'GS IN CALIFORNIA. 109 but more than two thirds of the soil may be cultivated, and immense quantities of wild oats are cut for hay, and exported. San Francisco county, although of medium extent, con- sists mainly of the Metropolis itself, there being but 2000 inhabitants in the county, outside the city limits. It is but proper to observe though, that the fathers have had no cramped idea concerning the future dimensions of the infant city. The map to be found in the various land agent's offices, may well challenge comparison with the proudest of anti(|uity. It might not, however, eventually be injurious to the interests of a purchaser, to take a look at the premises in question, before he ratify the bargain — that is, if he can find it — for lots at moderate rates, are, not improbably, outside the anchorage ground, or perhaps three or four miles back in the sand hills of the interior. Mission Ward, which consists of the old Mission Dolores, contains 70 or 80 houses, with the usual quantum of hotels. It is a neat little village and is mainly supported by the rich gardens in the neighborhood. In reality, it is nearly thee miles from the city, although contained within the corporation limits ; and its old church, green glades, flowery hedges, and prattling brooks, form an enchanting contrast to the dusty jammed up streets of the city, and the bleak sand hills that intervene. With these advantages, and an excellent plank road, it is, of course a great resort of pleasure seekers; and on Sunday, in particular, the road is a perfect stream of omnibvsses, gigs and horsemen. The latter are chiefly supplied by livery stables ; and the gallant greys are taxed to their utmost, in order to v.u\\:o. the conscience of the rider per- fectly clear that good value has been received for his cash. 110 RAMBLINOS IN CALIFORNIA. It is the only leading road into the country, and is on the direct line to San Jose and the southern counties. The bridging and filling tu San Francisquita creek on the county line — a distance of 80 miles — cost more than $50,000, but three-fourths of it was swallowed by the managers. The range of mountains, commonly called the coast range, runs lengthways of this county. The Mexicans gave it the more poetical name of Sierra Morino, or Brown Mountains. The highest portion of this range commences at a point about twelve miles to the southward of San Francisco, and they retain their ide itity to the very southern exttcmity of the State. In mi;ny places they rise upwards of 2000 feet above the level of the ocean, and form a noble shield to ward oif the raw N. W. winds from the rich farming lands that line their eastern slope, on the great bay of San Francisco. There have been large quantities of redwood in different parts of this county, but it is now much used up for rails and shingles. There arc about 3000 acres employed in cultivation, and the taxable property has been estimated at thirty millions of dollars ; but value of real estate fluctuates so strangely, it is very difficult to form a correct standard. Solano is a noble agricultural county 5 and its conve- nience to the bay gives it advantages of no mean impor- tance, in the matter of shipping to the most advantageous markets, with good despatch. More than 10,000 acres arc in cultivation, and farming pays well ; stock of various kinds is plentiful, and more than $50,000 are employed in (juartz and placer mining, in the coast range. The principal towns are Yallejo and Bcnicia. Tb.e former was at one time the capital of the State. The legislature first UAMBLINGS IN CALIFORNIA. Ill sold their presence to the lord of the soil, for a large sum ; but the lord not finding their honorable presence so lucra- tive as he had fondly anticipated, bogged to be released from his engagement, and his prayer was humanely granted by them, as soon as they became fully aware that the miserable village lots comprised the chief of the (reneral's possessions; and had they been brought into the market, under the happiest circumstances, would not have produced one-tenth of the stipulated sum. Benicia was then made head-({uarters, and finally Sacramento, where a good State House is built, which will most probably have the effect of making it the permanent seat of government. Benicia is a half dead little town at the mouth of the Sacramento, where there are dry docks ; and the large ocean steamships coaling, and refitting, aid materially in keeping it in existence. There are four very rich valleys in this county, that contain the chief portion of the arable land, viz : — Suscol, Sulphur Springs, Green, and Suisun. Suscol lies west of a range of hills, bearing the same name, and extends to the northern boundary of t'.e county; from Vallcjo it is rich, and contains more than thirty square miles ; it is washed by Napa bay, and wild oats at present cover a great reach of its surface. Sulphur Spring, running from Suisun bay through the Suscol hills, is both well watered and fertile. Green Valley, as its name implies, is covered much of the year with verdure ; it contains ten square miles, and is a rich clover pasture. Suisun, the richest and most extensive, contains forty square miles, but is completely covered by a Spanish It opens out on the cast into the Sacramento grant. valley, and hi\-- the most salubrious climate on that un- wholesome river. 112 RAMBLINGS IN CALIFORNIA. ^' Mariposa covers au immense extent of territory, coutain- inp; within its boundaries tho present limit of the southern mines, as well as a great surface of tillable land. Its re- sources as yet, however, have been but sparingly developed, principally because its streams are small, and are quite dry for a large portion of the year. And besides, its mines are not of so rich a description as to counterbalance the expense and loss of time incurred by travelling from place to place. It probably contains the greatest number of quartz leads of any other county, and great numbers of wealthy companies, have lately engaged in the enterprise, which to all appearance is very flattering. Mariposa is the county tcJvn. Siskiyou is both an agricultural and mining county, but neither are of any great importance. It is awkwardly situated, and its resources but little known. Its popula- tion may be estimated at 3000. Mendochino has a population of 500, but only 300 are white. It has little good land unoccupied, but has great resources in lumbering, and possesses many excellent saw mills. Yolo is separated from Sacramento county, by the river Sacramento, and extends along its banks a distance of forty miles. Its northern boundary extends to ten miles above its junction with the Feather Iliver. It consists mostly of tule land back from the river, and very difficult of being reclaimed. The land along the river bank con- sists of intervales, and is a very rich deposit. It has great advantages for raising stock ; but the large freshets that occur annually, anii sweep away houses, cattle, and all descriptions of property, liinder greatly the dcvclopnicr.t of its resources. But the baneful misama which pervades RAMBLINflS IN CAl.lFORNIA. 113 every portion of its surface, during'- -the summer, is its worst enemy A great portion of the people are con- stantly prostrated with fever and ague, and the residents of a year or two, have a very enervated and dejected ap- pearance. And what spell enchains the large population to this noxious region, it is difficult to conceive j for what- ever the wealth may be that is concealed in the soil, a lusty arm can alone develop it ; but these poor ghosts can barely crawl, and the luxuriance of the vegetation only conduces to distil for them a rank and loathsome poison. Several little towns have been laid out, but they have all fallen short of the projectors' ideas ; the only one hav- ing the least appearance of prosperity, is Washington, immediately opposite to Sacramento city, to which it communicates by a steam ferry. Cache Creek, in the north, is on a small river of the same name. Fremont, Cottonwood, Merrit, and Putah, never were of any impor- tance, and are now almost deserted : and the great barn- like hotel, with which each is graced, calls up no romantic sympathy for its decay, for these horrid little towns are withered before they ripened, and antiquity aloue can give sublimity to a ruin. The population of this county is mostly native Ameri- can, from the Western States — a class, that are, perhaps, the best adapted of any, to endure the trials and vexations of a dismal swamp. The population was three years ago 1500, but will now scarcely number 1000, ten per cent of whom are females. About 5000 acres of land are culti- vated, and the capital employed in gardening, boating, and other purposes, exceed $100,000. The mountains are the coast range ; and there are three romantic little 114 RAMBLINOS IN CALIFORNIA. Ai lakes, named Washington, Clear, and Tule Lakes; Clear Lake»has a surface of thirteen square miles. Calaveras, in the heart of the southern mines, has not more than 320,000 invested in agriculture; but is so well timbered, the saw mills alone have cost $100,000. On account of the large mining population which it contains, coupled with its own non-productive powers, merchandize is a heavy and lucrative business ; no less a sum than one mil- lion and a quarter of dollars being invested in this channel. About half a million is employed in quartz ; and the money invested in other descriptions of mining is veiy great, for it possesses within its boundaries, perhaps the richest portion of what are called the southern mines. Moquelumne Hill is the county town, and issues a rabid little democratic newspaper, that has been the means of inspiring the people morr than once, to destroy water ditches and flumes, when rates were not sufficiently moderate to meet their views. The town lies one mile south of the river, whose name it bears, and divides it from the neighboring county of Amador. It is built on a hill, at the head of a ravine, which extends to the south many miles, and has proved very rich. But the most important diggings, have been the bed of the river, and the hills in the immediate neigh- borhood. On one in particular — overhanging the town — the shafts have been sunk so close to each other, it strongly resembles an enormous grave yard; and is completely drifted out on the ledge, a depth in many places of more than a hundred feet. Ten miles south of Moquelumne Hill, is the pretty village of San x\ndreas, on the main road leading past the Big Tree, to Utah and the Mormons. The diggings in the immediate vicinity of this place, have been worked out chiefly, as they were originally shallow ; RAMBLINGS IN CALIFORNIA. 115 but its central locality, between the branches of the Cala- veras, helps to support the town, which contains 20 stores, 42 liquor shops, and 3 places of worship, together with a little blue journal of Conservative principles, named the Indcjyendcnt. A deadly feud of course exists between it and its rival of the hill, touching the County Seat ; but the democrat has the advantage of present possession, and belabors the other with the all prevailing argument, that its tendencies are nionarchial. The town consists of a triangle, formed by its three streets ; one is occupied by French, Spanish, and other natives of Continental Europe — one by the Chinese — and the main one by Americans, Jews, and Britishers ; and the stores and saloons in each, are chiefly patronized by their own people. Vallecito, south of San Andreas, is well supplied with water, and produces much gold during the summer season. Murphy's Camp is a thriving business little place, and is situated nine miles north of Vallecito. Angel's Camp has taken a great start lately, on account of tremendous quartz discoveries^ which have been the means of drawing in much capital from other places, and it bids fair, from pre- sent ajtpearauces, to totally eclipse all the other camps in the county. Want of water has been a great drawback to the resources of this county, but the ditch', are now numerous and good. The principal one is named the Table Mountain Ditch, which commands all the camps just mentioned, and gives a plentiful supply for eight months in the year, at the rate of $6 per day to the sluice stream. As the diggings are now principally quartz and tunnels, the miners can employ themselves advantageously in piling up earth, in readiness ^ur the rising of tho stream. 116 RAMBLIiNU8 IN CAMFOEINIA. a I There are many i^ood ditches around Mo<iuelumne hill, but tlieir njost profitable days are over. There is another large ditch which takes its source from the Stanislaus, and gives a plentiful stream for the whole year. It supplies all the miners on the lower portion of the river, and is calculated to irrigate the plains of the San Joaquin, as soon as the mines along its course are ex- hausted ; but this cannot occur for many years to come. The principal bars on this river are, Byrne's Ferry, Six Mile Bar, Two Mile Bar, and Knights' Ferry, and indeed the banks of this stream pay small wages, the whole way through the foot hills, and even far into the plains. Some of the trees in this country are supposed to be the largest in the world. A ba'-k section of one veteran was packed and despatched to the Now York Crystal Palace. Its dimensions are as follows : — circumference at the tiTound 9G feet — 4 feet above the ground, 84 feet — 14 feet above the ground, 64 feet — height 307 feet, and the bark 13 inches thick, and its age estimated by the number of rings, 3000 years. The county of Amador on the north, originally a portion of Calaveras, contains some excellent farming valleys, as well as good mines, but as yet they have not been much worked, from the extreme scarcity of water. Jackson, Dry town, ^'oleano, and Butte — situated at the foot of a remarkable conical hill — arc <|uite lively places, during the rush of the winter season. Tuolumne county, lying south of Calaveras, is divided from it by the large river Stanislaus, and is bounded on the south by the Tuolumne river, which rivals the Stanis- laus in size and richness. It is next to Calaveras in ininortanee and contains the two largest towns in the HAMllLINfl.s r.\ CAIJi-'ORMA. 117 southern niinos. It lias a poimlation vei-ning on .10,000, and 2000 acres in cultivation, l)ut aoriculturo is of very secondary importance, and nevci likely to be very profita- bio: The annual value of its auricultural productions do not exceed 3100,000, while the money invested in mining, cannot be less than three millions. The principal towns arc Sonora— the county town— Columbia, Springfield, Jamestown, Shaw's Flat, and Chinese Camp— all of^them included within a radius of five miles. Sonora is a large, straggling, ugly place, on the bank of Wood's creek, whi'^ch was, at an early period, very rich, but it is now exhausted, and the chief of the ravines are too high in the mountains to pay well. It is, nevertheless, rather a flourishing place, earning its success partly by being the seat of justice, and partly by its convenience to numerous groves of excellent timber ; and the saw ujills of Sonora and its neighborhood, supply the chief portion of the people throughout the country. (.\)lumbia, four miles from Sonora, is a large, well built, flourishing place, and the deep diggings in Its district will make it important for years to come. "" Spring- field, two miles from Columbia, is a small but very prosperous village. Shaw's Flat is an extended village, nearly two miles long— all deep diggings, and pay welL Jamestown, on Wood's creek, was at one time of some importance, but h^ rather retrograded in the last three years. Chinese Cimp is tlio head quarters for natives of the Celestial Empire, but has also many white inhabitants. The mining laws of this camp, are the most peculiar in the State and are the glory of all monopolists. The paying ground con- sists of surface diggings of many hundred acres, varying in depth from one foot to ten, and the size of a claim is only 20 feet square, or 400 square feet-a space that in 118 RAMBLINOS IN f'ALIFORNIA. many cases could be worked out in a day. IJut the beauty of the law lies in the proviso, that you are not necessarily confined to the diuiensions of one claim, but may locate as many as you please, simply by diguing a small trench round each, and this duty performed, your title is recoo^- nizablo to all eternity. !>y this moans, there arc several holding more than a tiiousand claims each, which they let lie, fi-om year to year, either for the purpose of speculation, or to work them at some future time, when the price of labor will be more moderate. The table mountain is the greatest natural curiosity in this country, and has excited much attention for the two last years, both from miners and scientific men, from some rich discoveries of placers in its interior. It first commences to show itself at a point above Columbia, and retains its name and natural characteristics, clearly and distinctly, to its termination, in a steep bluff at the foot hills wliieh border the valley cf the San Joaquin. The length of the mountain is about 40 miles, runnin«» nearly due east and west, and it varies in breadth from five miles to a hundred yards. Its surface is a perfect plain, chiefly elevated above the surrounding hills, through which it takes its course, meandering like a river. The top is strewed over with loose rock, extremely hard, and strongly resembling sea coal cinder, and the strata or crust surface is a solid mass of the same material, more than fifty feet thick, at many points. In many places it crosses tlie river, and again returns, leaving great chasms many hun- dred feet deep, through which the river hurries in its fury. Its face, whether to the river on the north, or the low hills on the south, presents a perpendicular wall, often from five to seven liundred feet high, excepting at u few well RAMnLINCS IN CALli'UllMA. 119 known points, where its surface is sufficiently inclined for the passage of an empty wauo-ou. Every conceivable form of architecture may be traced in imagination on it^j sheer sides— high tower, balcony, and pillar, and turned with all the regularity and precision of a structure, formed on the nicest rules of geometry, yet varied in its excellence to every conceivable form of a crystal, and its agreeable trans- formations throw at defiance the faintest idea of monotony. It is most particularly its contrasts that stamp it so with wonder and sublimity — so tame upon its green top — so wild upon its grim sides — its surface flat as a lake — and its pitch the sternest of precipices, destitute of one kindly branch or b(mgh, to break the fall on the relentless bould- ers of the distant current. ]>ut our interest in Table Mountain, ends not here — a theme of greater wonder lies buiied in the donjons deep of this 'mighty tumulus — what imagination could have eon- ceived, that at the foundation of this tremendous mass, there rolls a silent yet rapid river — cool and clear, unmo- lested by aught that breathes ? No fishes glide amid its pearl;y depths, nor on its ripi)le docs wild bird dip its wing, nor look its food. For ages has the still stream pursued its course, hundreds of feet beneath the ken of living thing, and fed the ocean secretly from its uTdvnown source. But a p'-ospecting miner broke the spell by making rich discoveries in a tunnel. Great excitement followed • and in a short time many hundred tunnels were in opera- tion, and large sums were expended; but as yet, little has been achieved, though tiie chief portion of them con- tinue sanguine, and claims are valued at large sums. Stanislaus county, south of Tuclumne, is small and un- important, but some new ditches hitely introduced, have 120 HA.MHL[N<JS IN CALIFORNIA. 'fit ji gTDatly added to it.s coijsc'(juciico, Tlic most important camp is low in tlio foot liills, and boars tlic name of La (^'.'((Nf/e, or French Bar, on the Tuolumne river. It is now the seat of justice, which was originally fixed at Empire City, and was, two years ago, a portion of Tuolumne. It is situated on the south fork, and has a population of loOO, m a distance of one mile. The upper or new town, the smallest but now most prosperous portion, has two respectable hotels, twenty stores, and a shoal of lawyers and <loctors, who appear a mild and subdued race, and easily approachable, oven by the vulgar, through the prevailing medium of a fancy drink. The town is built on a broad level shelf that projects into the river, and altogertier presents a most eligible position. There are very rich diggings on the s.;cond table from the river; in some j.laces it actually has paid 25 cents to the pan, from the surface to the bedrock, a distance of 50 feet. A man with a hydraulic power and sluices properly placed, could in such gnmnd, wash out 82000 per day; but diggings so rich, rarely hold out for any length of time. Tunneling is going Oil very extensively. The </irf is procured from a lead more than two hundred feet in the interior of the hill. It is all a river gravel, mixed with white cement, and contains lieavy deposits. There is a petrified tree at La Grange, with a trunk 14 feet in diameter. It makes its appearance in the mouth of a tunnel, and grain, growth, and outlines, are unmis- takeably and distinctly visible. The remainder of this county is only adapted for farming and grazing, and much good soil borticrs on the main river, Mercedes is the county south of Stanislaus, and contain- ing some placers, but they are not generally considered val- RA^ I>Ll\(;s JN CALIFOUNIA. 121 uable. The priiiL-i|i,iI river i« the Mercedes, which empties into the San Jo;u|uIn, iuul the point of their confluence is called the best ►"^alnion lisiiing' in California. Indian Gulch and Mercedes Falls, are the principal camps. The latter place is remarkable for its sublimity and beauty, lle- moteness from market makes agriculture rather an un- • profitable business, for the miners are mostly poor and sparse. Sutter county, on tlie Feather river, is all a plain ; much of it is unreclaimablc tule, but the banks of the river are a rich botto/n, and pioduccs a larac return; I have seen peaches brought from Hock farm, wei"'hin«' half a po\ind, grown on trees oidy three years old. The population is only about 700; more than half of whom arc Indians, in a state of semi-civilization, that is, they wear white men's old breeches, and driidv firewater when- over it comes in their way. Placer county, in the nortiiern mines, has a population of more than 20,000, and contains some of the oldest mining camps in the country. Although some have of late years "caved in." fresh discoveries have been made, even faster than the old ones have become exhausted. Illinois Towi\ and Michigan Bluffs, are the most important new towns. They are constantly increasing, and the deep diggings v»'ill support a further increase for numy years. Coon Creek, Auburn, Ophirville, and Kattlesnakc, have been among the richest camps in all the mines ; but they are now like dozens of the old towns, gradually dyinir a natural death. The county lies on the American river, which joins the Sacramento ; some attempt at farmiuL' has boon made, but it is extremely trifling, -iud U'-vcr can be of any material importance r si 122 RAMBLINOS IS CALIFORNIA. »■ I I I f \ uha i.s anotlior iiorthorii county, and po.vscs.scd at one time, tlic ureatest amount of bar digirinos of any in the State. It is watered tlirougliout ])\ the river Yuba, cniptyino- into the Feather. Tlie red soil of the former river, for its wliok; extent tlirougli tlie mountains, contains gokl, and the river is ydlow as tlu; classic Tiber itself. Many too, like (';\3sar have crossed its waters, and achieved the object of their search in plenty; but too many, alas! have closed their eyes forever, in the hardships of the early seasons ; and many a breaking heart at home, still weeps and watches in solitude, for those who will ever sleep soundly, to the rude river's requiem. 1'here is little attcnipt at agriculture, except some barley and melons, but the good prices — from the expense of pack- ing — make the most indifferent crops, tolerably remuner- ative. The ri\er in its upper portion is formed by num- berless small tributaries, but the three principal ones are termed; the north, south, and middle forks ; they all contain gold, and the very minutest of them, at one period sw'armcd with busy miners. The most important districts are Mill Creek, Hampshire Creek, Deadwood Creek, Slate Creek, Canon Creek, Ousley's ]?ar, Long's and l^irk's Bar. The gold on Mill Creek is fine and in moderate (juantitics, the lumber is excellent. Hampshire Creek abounds with excellent lumber, and supplies a large country with boards for sluices. The soil of headwood Creek, was at one time thickly impregnated with gold, and still contains good diggings; there is plenty of good pine and an excellent saw mill. 81ate Creek approaches close to the Sierra Nev.'ida ningt^, and fontains imicli coarse gold, but it lies very deep, and the labor of extracting it is very great, a« KA.MIJM.VO.S IX CAJJFOKNJA. ]23 it is mostly doposited in deep fissures of tlie bed ruck, riuion Creek luis very coarse gold and has been consid- ered at one time, the most profitable diggings in the northern mines, the best portion of it liowever, extends into Sierra county. Ousley's Bar is quite an extensive village, and Ims a pictures(|ue appearance; as the walls of all tlie cabins are constructed of logs or boards, with white cotton roofs, it appears from the summits of the adjoinintr mountains, like a flock of sheep in a poor pasture field, while the busy miners, burrowing in the banks, might well be mistaken for industrious moles. The gold on this bar IS so very fine, that (juicksilver is always required in its perfect preservation, and great (juantities have been ex- tracted, paying witli extraordinary regularity. Tt lies on the main Yuba, ];] miles from the city of jlarysville, and has about 750 inhabitants. Park's Bar is the next in .size, and there are upwards of fifty more of a similar size, vvhich are still more or less worked. • The City of Marysville is in a very flourishing condition, and its central position for convenience to the mines, and being the head of navigation, unite to increase its impor- tance. It is built on the Yuba, one mile above its influx with the Feather River, and although a good business locality, the climate is weakening and unwholesome. The smaller streams are Bear Biver, which is the county line on the south, and empties into the Feather Uiver 81 miles below Marysville. Dry Creek, No. 2, empties into the same river, G miles above the mouth of Bear. There are ex( client fanning and grazing lands on both of these rivers, with fine grass at ail seasons. Dry Creek No. 3 empties into the Yuba, and receives many small streams of itself, it is 40 miles lung, has nine saw 124 HAMHLlXdS I.\ CALII-ORMA mills upon it, and -(.Id in small (numtities. Indian Creek empties into it 22 miles tVoni its mouth ; has a o-uod steam saw mill, and -old in payino' (|uantities. (lark's Pain emi.ties into the Vuba, 20 miles al.oNv .Marysville and omj.loys upwards of 700 miners. The hi-hest point of the middle Vuha to the mountains, has hoeti estimated at about oOOO i'eut. Sierra eounty, joining:' Vuba, is a small minin-- eounty. It has a population of ()000, and nearly a million dollars invested in various ways, of which placer minin- takes one half. It contains live bustlino' little towns, Downieville, rineorove, Windsor, Coxe's Bin- and (ioodyear's ]Jar.' Downieville on the Vuba is the laruest, containinu- 1500 inhabitants, and the mines in the vi dnity are deep and pay lumdsomely. Nevada is a larp' and populous county, containing' about 25,000 inhabitants, one-third of whom are citizens, one- third (Jldnese, and the renuiinder specimens from almost every race. .Mining and grazing are tlie chief occupation of the people, and it contains 700,000 liead of horses and horned cattle. The amount employed in mining amounts to five million of dollars, and in merchandize half a million. Nevada is t!ie principal city. Butte, so called from the mountains of the same name has a population of 15,000, and possesses extensive resources, botli in agriculture and mines. Although farm- ing has not been much attended to, there arc upwards of 5000 acres iu cultivation, but the systcni is bad in the extreme, and the productions, as a consequence, form but a poor criterion of the land's capabilities. Half a million dollars are employed in ouartz ininiuL!'. but for so far tli^ •• have not been very remunerative. Tlicre is mucii placer iiaii ('reck :()()d steam ik"s Piun 'Villc and t pitiiit of imate<l at 'j: county, ill dollars ing takes .vuievillc, ar'.s ])ar. ii.ti- 1500 deep ami ng about en.?, one- II alnio.'>;t cupation irses and aiLiount.-s million. ic r.ame, xtcnsive :h farni- t'ards of 1 in the 3rni but million '■■■' ^'"-7 1 placer RA.MLLl.XC.-i IN (".\I.IFOK.M.\. 125 mining, and the returns arc very satisfactory, (ircat quantities of lumber of an excellent description are pro- duced — the united work of tifteen powerful saw mills. The mines arc of goKl, ,silv(>r, lead, phitina and -luicksilver, but gold and (-juicksilvcr are by far the most abundant. There is much sublime and beautiful sciuiery in the Butte mountains. Table Mountain near the Feather Kivcr— or Jiio </(' /»s j,/,r/iios, ;is the Spaniards beautifully term it — strongly resembles a work of art, and a close ins})cction will alone convince one that it is not a counterpart of some ancient llhenish Castle. Mount Hood, with its head cov- ered over with ]KM]Mjtual snov/, towers far above its surround- ing fellows, and is visible in clear weather more than a liundred miles. Between the mountains are many exten- ,*!ive valleys of surpassing loveliness, as yet no more than casually looked at by the eyes of civilized men. The principal camps are Oroville, the county seat—Bidwcll's Bar, and Forbes Town, l^idwcll's Bar on the Feather Ixiver, vras at one time the county town, and a very flourish- ing place, but after the exhaustion of the riverbed, judge, ardiivcs. lawyer,^ and new.^paper, all removed to the younger and more thriving to'.vn, and the Cayotas will soon play hide and seek, through the streets of this deserted villao'c. (Vilusi has no mines, and has oidy about lUOO inhabi- tants, the chief portion of whom are congregratcd in, and ai'ound the litth^ towns of Oolusi and 31unroevil!e. Colusi IS at the head of summer navigation on the Sacramento, and forn.is a depot for goods, from whence they are packed on mules to Shasta, I'itt Biver and other mines in the north. Teliama bluffs, higher up, answers a similar pur- pose during' the freshets. Munronvillc is th.c couK-ty seat. Very little is known of this region yet, for the interior ia 12fi JtAMJJMNGS I\ CALrFORNIA. C'oinc a ' i almost n pathless wilderness, but it is likely to Leco... « ^'ood country, liavinj,^ more late and earl/rains than the counties farther south. Hunibolt, encdosing the bay of the same name, lies on the Pacific coast, ,iorth of San Francisco Bay. It supplies a M'roat part of the country with lumber, and is slowly but surely pro^jressint^. Khmiath, north of Ilumbolt, is a small county, with about loOU of a population. It lias but little land under eultiyat.on, and the anjount of capital employed i. nat lai;^'0. It all consists of a narrow strip on the coast iiye inilcs wide and twenty long, which is of a yery superior description. The riyers are, the Klamath, Trinity and Salmon, all of them contain gold in payin-M^uantities, and are extensiyely worked. The Klamath empties into tlie 1 acihc and is next to the Sacramento in size. The prin cipal mountains are called Salmon and Prospect, they are of great height, and are crowned with snow more than eight months in the year. Timber is plentiful and of magnihcent growth, plenty of redwood measurimr upwards of 20 feet in diameter. Trinity in the extreme north, has a population, supposed, oi oUUO whites and Indians. Its mines and other resources are but little known, they are extensiye and rich, at least on the riyer bearing its name. The natiye Indians are the most fierce and warlike of any in the State, and haye given great trouble and expense to the general goyernmeut. El Dorado was the great theatre of operations durin- the first gold excitement, and although still possessing a lam-e population, its palmiest days are oyer. The surface has been all exhausted, where payable, and the deep dio-dn-s -which are all nearly clalmed-are now the only'^^nes RA.MBMNCJS IN CALIFORNIA. 127 become a IS than the ne, lies on Tt supplies slowly but lit J, v/itli iHid under ed is not coast five ^ superior ■inity and :ities, and into the riio prin- . they are lore than d and of upwards apposed, resources , at least lians are ind have )rnnieut. ring the : a laro-e "ace has liairinffs ilv ones worked. The principal camps are Placerville, El Dorado, Auburn, Coloma, Fiddletown, (Jrizzly Flat, and Indian IHirgings. Placerville is an old town, and «ne of the largest in all the mines. Sliasta, the last of tiio list, is far north, and attained much notoriety for some time, on account of tlu; Indian hostilities. They were, indeed, almost the only red men who showed a martial spirit, in opposition to the march of t\iii invaders, though their pigmy resistance was much overrated and magnified, by the hireling press, in the ser- vice of the self-dubbed heroes; who won gold and even a species of glory, fur the feat of driving a few Imif starved breechless savages, from their hunting and fishing grounds, to perish among the snowy hills of the interior. The cli- mate is the severest in the State, and much destitution has occurred, during the first three winters after its first occupation, from the extreme difficulty of convevin.-- -pro- visions at that season. Large deposits of gold were found in the region around the town ; but of latu years the(iuan- tity has greatly decreased. Mining in summer is much retarded by scarcity of water, and in winter froin a super- fluity of snow, but for so far, little has been done to ob- viate the inc(invenience, by ditches or flumes. Shasta is much too higli in the mountains to make farmino- very successful; only about loUO acres are under cultiva- tion, and the proceeds are veiy small. Shasta City has a population rising near 3000, and the whole population of the county may be estimated in the neighborhood of 5000. The principal live stock consists in mules, of which there are upwards of 1200. They are chiefly employed in packing provisions through the mines, and conveying freight to Oregon for passengers ; for the great northern i !i I i •i r 1l'8 'lAMIi|.I.V.is l.v ( Al.lKuRN.A. ^s :,:,;;'■ ::;!:-v""'-^'"" ^''■^■-^'.•'^'■ abound in „ ' .""^' ""l"'-™'-'l wi.l, .„,,,,„„, cho,llic,l«. Til,. .„,h .,,,,1 1, . V.U-lnlls „t|i,,,- .1,.« i.,,lu, '• " '"''"'■'""^' "- "-''"l" StiUc with their first oeciinatiuii TIu. f ii • . "^ ''"^"'"".i.' 'ant:.,.e,,e,.^,,,XM ' ; ';":;:::^;-;-;"■'""^- wn..<e, (.... o,,o n„,,e To.,,:::!,: :',^ ;/.;::;;' ..',;,.,'""*""''"''■•""■" •■ »f tl.O ,l00p- '- HU I,..-,, 1111,1 ,,„,„ „„, |„.„|.^ ^^^_ ^,^^^ ^^^ I^ It has been beiausc 1 b-,v,. I , ""■'"""ant, d voi-silied surf.,r.o I. , '-"'ines, ot its wide ;ind . .or c.o„,U,.v of t„o .a,ne population, the,? '. '. 1" ^ "t or people, to whou, seating the biw i, ,„o disl ^ " ''• -^'^^' ^'^«« t^ whom the oric^inal ex- '»i>^ district. 'W'leapifal 'ill-', about » .^nlpliur, 'ions other iibuiidaiit, i^hite with • portation. 'J nniquG, •ittcndin^ »st impor- •>'■ Canon, iKi Town, cry grout i»c golden the deep- en iiieant, ortunitj^ 11 others, skeleton iliarfea- ide and •re eon- u'lt iiiaj iplato a ter pro- lan any aps no istaste- volved lal ex- nA.MBLI.\(;8 IN CALIFORNIA. 129 travagant visions of the gold tields, would naturally hold out the strongest inducements, were the highly sanguine, the despiser of drudgery, the lover of danger and adventure' together with the gambler, the bully, and the professional prig. Such a class exists in the smallest numbers, among the hard working, plodding community; and to them, as a whole, California presents herself, in preference to any •1 other, as their proper and sure field, to acquire within the ! shortest time, the means of independence and a comfortable home. ^ Among the first eniigrants, this uncongenial elen.ent most abounded ; for, besides natural inclination, they po.s- sessed the most money, and were best able to overcome the great expense incidental to such a voyage, when *he means of transport were so meagre and imperfect. The most respectable class consisted of patientless doctors, briefless barristers, book-keepers, superior mechanics, and the whole host of the shabby genteel ; runaway soldiers and sailors, formed another large portion ; and the rascals filled up the rear. Very soon the pick and shovel handles, irritated the tender palm of the eler/ante, and he sighed for his lighter and more familiar occupation. The bfack- legs, too, got disgusted with the degradation, and sought the more congenial occupations of office holders or ga'in- blers. In consequence, every possible channel that de- manded skill, education or light labor, was rapidly filled to overflowing, and were soon depreciated far below the calling they despised ; while the community was burthened with a host of non-producers, who fattened on the exer- tions of the industrious miner. Resources for mechanical skill. havA nf InfA tmovo a/^n^^_i.„x j.„ i i .. — j..,_^.:^ „.^.i„„„^jjj^ ucveiopea iiieuiselyes w well as fields for the professional and literary, and the 180 RAMnLINOS IN CALIFORNIA. present settlers are better adapted to their occupations, than the forty-niner ; but the self same forty-niner still re- mains, more abhorrent to toil than ever, and willing to give his services to any easy occupation, at the most nonii- nal value, provided that he can escape the. infliction of labor. Such being the case, the robust and persevering, can alone make a visit to California, a profitable one ; for to all others it is most miserably adapted to their condition, whether as a temporary or permanent home. The crowds of lawyers, small tradesmen, mechanics, and others, who swarm in every little camp, even of the most humble de- scription, soliciting the patronage of the public — of whom they often form at least one half — is truly astonishing, when every one of them can, if he choose, find plenty and independent employment for himself, and thus earn three or four dollars per day. But they prefer to waste their existence, in useless and hopeless competition, almost de- prived of the necessaries of life, despised by each other, and even by those whom they dare to consider inferiors — for the paltry privilege of idleness, and a white shirt. 1 ■ iipiitions, !r still re- rilling to Dst nomi- liction of ling, can e ; for to ondition, e crowds ers, who mble de- of whom )nishing, enty and irn three ste their most de- ill other, feriors — ihirt. 1 PART IV. ANECDOTES AND SKETCHES FROM LIFE. HOW I JUMPED A CLAIM. Never .shall I forget my introduction to the mysterious and exciting occupation of a gold-seeker. With what lofty aspirations did I don the red shirt and inexpressibles of dongaree I The glorious scheme of my childish years ; those fruitless, untold hopes of rivalling Aladin, or that experienced mariner 8iubad ; all those fleeting, and ridiculous, but not less blissful thoughts, that brightened my onvvard path to the world of life and action — thoughts, alas I long since smothered by unpleasant contact with a rough and jostling world, and the deep gulf of manhood's dull decay — all those lovely chimeras of my boyhood's verdant fancy, when I religiously believed in Santa Claus, and the vegetation of penny pieces, were again revivified in my mind's eye — not as fleeting goblins of the past, 132 RAMBLINGS IN TAUFORMA. 11 raised to lacerate n.y l.eart with the remc.nbranoo of dis- appointed hopes and .sorrows, long since mellowed to a pleasing sadness-but as tnie tangible facts of bright-eyed promise, leading through a flowery trail, and even now on the eve of fruition. The r^lorious panorama of flood, field and mountain, that greeted our every step on that bright summer morning might a n.ost awake a glimmer of romance, in the bosom of a radroad director; for even my stalwart, matter of fact fnend, Buckeye, who marshalled my presence to the promised feesame, seemed moved by its influence, to the spirit of song, and made the very old hills rejoice in their echo to '' Californy, that's the land for me." But, hum- hly do I confess, that much as I felt and appreciated the influence the beauteous scene, I can only now repeat, hat beautiful it was; for, not a hill, nor rock, no. water' fa , nor tree-not one of nature's innocent devices, to lull the heart from care to peace, retains a definite position 10 my memory-all remains merely as a bright hued chaos of views, but seldom seen, and hard to be forgotten. But my thoughts and conceptions were other than for landscapes -They were grovelling in the dust, aye, in the very gr.!v^el that lay wet and closely packed in the crevices of the bedrock; for on that never ^o be forgotten mornin..- I was to be ushered at once, without apprenticeship, i^to the full mysteries of the mining art, and all its respon- sibilities. Buckeye, my bosom friend, of two days ac- quaintanceship, volunteered his assistance in the act of initiation ; and sturdily we proceeded with shovel, pick, and pan, to .y.m^., or take possession of the claim of the redoubtable Cincinnatus Baggs. Baggs, we knew to be "~ "- '^''^ -r^'-'Aiud—a great desideratum, by tb.e way. 00 of dis- 'wed to a •iglit-ejed n now on tain, that morning, he bosom natter of 3e to the ), to the ! in their Lit, hum- iated the V repeat, )i* water- nces, to position sd chaos n. But dscapes. y gr,'ivel of the ningj I p, into i'e.spon- lys ao aet of , pick, of the ■ to be '.0 way, RAMBLINCs IN CALIFORNIA. 133 m such cases, for possession is generally a knock down argument— and as he was well known to hold three or four claims in the same district, we had great hopes of estab- lishing a right; for miners and mining laws, are in most instances in radical opposition to all monopoly. The task was one requiring a due proportion of nerve ; for Cincinnatus was a reputed buffer of six feet three, a Pike county man besides, and of course an adept in all the innocent recreations, of biting, gouging, and playing horse, so much delighted in by the primitive people of the '' Setting Sun." We picked and shovelled faithfully for two or three hours, until we had removed all the light depoists of the surface, on a space six feet square, and on this made a smaller hole in the compact sand and gravel, as low as the iTuba river would permit us, without bailing. A pan was then filled with the deepest earth we cou°d procure, and placed in the hands of my skillful and ex- perienced companion, to " prospect" or test the value of the ground underneath, from the sample already in our possession. We descended to the river which was close at hand, and peeping over the shoulder of the operator, I watched his manipulations with impatient but intense interest. Slowly did he move the pan, and gradually the lighter portions wore away in the tiny waves made by the agitation of the pan. He then carefully picked out the coarser gravel with his fingers, and commenced the motion afresh, the heavier particles slowly descending, and the lighter going off, until at last the filthy lucre was plainly discernible in shining specks, mixed with a small quantity of fine black sand. ''Well," said 1 endeavoring to look wise, and to spoak professionally, "what's the prospect ?" M 131 RAMBLINOs IN CALIFORNIA. ■) It 1 I He vvhirlci it munrl the pan for a .uinuto, without nay- ing any rej^ard to n.y keen inquiry, and after euTuin^ to an apparent conclusion he observed,— '' Jf this prospect was on the north fork of the Feather or even in the Colund.y digging-s, I would reckon on twenty-two cents; but this gold ain't ri.-ht familiar to mo 0^'ct, and 1 kind o' think it looks thin and Haky, and if so be, there ain't more than from eighteen to twenty cents • but It is easy dirt to get out, and we can n.ake two ounee.s a piece, to the day, like sn.oke, if the streak only holds out." "^ Here was a windfall for a penniless purse .' Thirty-five dollars a day, in regular payj wh; It was an independent fortune, ;in inexhaustible bank, of which I was cashier and director. To be su.. the money was locked up in the vaults, and there was no key, but tlien I possessed the means of pick ni^f the lock; and again we commenced with renewed vigor to throw up the earth, and bail out water. Pleasantly the work went on, for another half hour, when I was suddenly aroused from my day dream of bliss', by the low deep voice of Buckeye, as he rolled out the short but emphatic sentence : — 'MIe'sH eomin', the puke; mind your eye; vou b^ spokesman, he knows I've got a claim ; show' your .-law.i and bluft'him off." And before I could thoroughly comprehend the tenor of this hurried advice, [ found myself face to face with the notorious puke. I am free to confess, that T almost wished myself comfortably away " in some lone cot among the distant hills," for his appearance fully verified the reports I had received of his powerful well knit frame. lie h:u\ certainly been well described as a " roarer," and RAMr.MNMiS IN CALIFORNIA. 135 ithont pay- coming to do Feather, reckon on liliar to nie , and if so n\ty cents ; ;wo ounee.s only holds riiirty-five dependent IS cashier up in the messed the inmencod d bail out tialf hour, 1 of bliss, the short ; you bt? Dur f'law.i ) tenor of with the T almost >t among ilied the it franit\ i?r," and sadly did n.y mind misgive me, while 1 mentally conned over the results of a hand to hand struggle with this her- culean produetio.i of the mighty west. But the time for repentance had expired ; 1 thought scorn to beat a cow- ardly retreat, and an honorable one had now become im- possible. I therefore, agreeably to previous advice, shovelled away with more diligence than ever, apparently fiuite unconscious of the new comer's gigantic presence. But as the old song says, " My eye was upon him," and I have little doubt that the beat of my pulse betokened excitement, and no little fever. Our visitor soon seated himself on a boulder, and after an awful pause of a few seconds, he gave a snort to attract attention, and then opened his mouth and spoke. " iStranger," said he in a voice of great solemnity, '• is A soger a man o' war, or is he not V The pulse beat faster still, on hearing such a belligerent interrogative, and I feebly observed : " War, my dear sir, does certainly strike me, of all others, as being the occupation best adapted to the wants and natural propensities of a military man, and the one too, in which he could have the opportunity of spreading himself to the greatest advantage." " Wal, stranger, 1 knowed it all the time myself, but 1 kind o' wanted a uuijority in my favor, like a huU-souled ilopublican, as 1 be, for you see, the way of it was this," (pulse on the decline)—" You see, Dick the Whaler, and Whiskey Tom and nie, had been playin' a civil game of poker, and I lost the whiskies, and jest as I began to box the cards, for Td won the deal, you know-some newspaper man in stud-horse clothes, from VFris.o, cum in and begun to read the news— and he could read like thunder— and i ft 'Hi J <r?^ J - !*?*'- J 186 RAMHLINGS IN OAUfORMA. y I 2^ the new.,, .ez it, -The ,nH„-„-.„a,- fi„<l »ix shou at the mcrehnnt.nan without injurin' him,' „ud soz I_. The »0K.,- must have a darned poo.- mael.ine of a revolver, or el»e the pedlar handled his pin.- ri.lu .mart, anyhow.' And that l.ttle fiste of a whaliu' Oi„k up,, an' ,ez he- Reckon, P,ke you never ,ee a ,nan-o'-war.' Now, stran- ger, I m a modest feller ; 'taint easy to raise my eomba. but th,« was a rubbin' it i„ too strong, for I have travelled »ome, myself, /l,„ve; / have been to St. Louis; I have erossed the plains; I should judge I know a painter from a parrary heu, or a becgum from a horned toad. Did'nt I Bee droves of men-o'-war in Missury, when we lieked the eussed njens and Mexieans ? Didn't they axe me to be a man-o war, and hadn't I half a mine to jine 'em, only hat dodger in them parts was skeeree, and another youn' Baggs was shortly expected. So I ups and pounds Diek a smart ehanee, and before I'd eoneluded, thinks I, ■ there mayb o„ i ,^,,_,__^, j^^^^^ ^,^^^ ^^^^ ^^^ i II tote myself back now, and finish the job-f ,r he', t,M used up to travel '." ... a. Having thus soothed ,ny nerves, our unpleasant visitor posted off raptdly for a few paces ; he then stopped short, and turning on his heel, again hailed me : " Oh, mi.,ter l-you've told me suthin', and now I'll tell you suthin'-M.,„, M„,u,,. ,-, ,„,!, ,/,-^,,-„,., ,,„„'« '", '-y <■«. I tried it myself last winter, and thev prospected at first mor'n considerable, but they gin out so <imck they made my head swim ; but try your chance for a turn-up-Jack, and when you can't, come to me and I'll trade you a howler for eash-gi„oi„e five cent stuff-a hi- bank, and no water to n.ake you swear. If vou hunt for n.^ when the weather', n.odcrate, t ,„.,,, be „t work, and a-.in I RAMr,!J.\(KS IN CAMFOHMA 187 six shots at *ez I—' The revolver, or t, anyhow. ' i' sez he — N^ow, stran- iny combat, ve travelled is; I have linter from Did'nt I licked the e me to be 'em, only ;her young unda Dick 3 1, ' there you ; but )r he's too mt visitor ped .short, now I'll ^A' yoxC re :ind they ;ia out so bance for ; and I'll ff — a bi-' nt for me d :i,i?in, f mayn- be at the orocery ; but fur a gin'ral rule, when itn warm, look in the shade, for I'm allers binmd to be thar!" When he had concluded his harangue, I hypocritically tendered my acknowledonients, muttering at the same time something about sour grapes, which Cincinnatus heard or regarded not, for with an unwieldy motion of his big hand, he departed on his mission, singing '< Barbara Allan," with a voice like a Stentor. But if the illustrious traveller judged not wisely in the first instance, he did but too well in the second. The thin strata would not defray the expense of stripping, and we were forced to abandon the chum, as our predecessor had done. And thus ended my first jump. A FIELD OFFICER. His name was Breeze, and if true, what some persistently affirn, is the case, that names were originally o-iven to point out some peculiar characteristic of the individual then was my general a worthy descendant ■ for he inherited "» all punty the gifts of his ancestor in one respect nt least • tor a more "gassy" individual-as the Americans term \i -It never was my lot to be put in communication with He was one of the great men of the country in '5'^ at which period he had probably risen to the high'est pinnacle ot his fame, for from that time to the present, his star has been on the decline, chiefly from the h.no- cessation of hostilities, with the dark nations of the north. But mv connection with Imn was a peaceful one. No proud pran- cors insidted the slain, nor ghastly wounds upbraided us in cmr labor. The weapon wielded was the pen-the blood shed was the ink-and the tield, a neatly bound volume J l:5S RAMKLINOK IS TALIFORNIA. Mr of foolscap-ancl the subject, the hard founht battles of liis j^oneralship. I frankly avow, that it was a feeliu^^^ nearly akin to awe, whieh I experienced, when I heard my name announced and was ushered into the presence of this august person- a,ge. I had often read and heard about generals; nay I had often seen them at a distance, while reviewing troops seated on splendid chargers ; their aids-de-camp gallopino^ towards them like the wind, and spattering the mud in spectators' faces. But 1 had never even seen one afoot, much less in a room eight by twelve, with a large bed in it ; and —although I knew it to be impossible-like the ancient 1 oruvians, I could scarcely divest myself of the idea, that a general and a horse were inseparable. There was a deep solemnity, I inu.gined, attendant on my introduction a corporeal reality extremely trying to a nervous, bashful nature. Had it been a major, or even a colonel, my trepi- dation would have been much less, but a real live general of brigade was astounding; for the very name itselt>alled up pictures of Boney and hi>^ generals— feathers dancing- spurs jingling, and all the pomp and circumstance of do- rious war. But my military patron Aras quiet and courteou.s as I could wish, and— to use a homely phra.se— I soon found myself as easy as an old shoe. The general had three friends with him in his study— I might say bedroom and parlor too, for it answered all three purposes. The first was only a judge, and the second a major, but as neither had seen more than twenty sum- mers yet, they bid very fair, if they kept on proffressin<^ in proportion, to the age of three score and ten, of attaining quite dignified titles. The third was the county surveyor" ■■ '•!'<^-'v-^:U ma.i wiio enierea wiin me, and whom battles of Ilia akin to awe, announced, i;ust person- 'als; nay, I wing troops, ip galloping he mud in afoot, much Hn it; and the ancient idea, that 1 was a deep oduction, a IS, bashful , my trepi- ve general ;self, called dancinji* — nee of glo- [ courteous e — I soon s study — swered all the second enty suni- rogressiny attainine: surveyor ; nd whom RAMBLlNtiS IN CALIFORNIA. 139 they saluted as '' colonel/' was the surveyor's assistant. This was the wav of it— Mr. A , a merchant doing a flourishing inland trade, was elected to the ollice of county surveyor, un the regular democratic ticket. ]^ut, unfor- tunately, the successful candidate, if he attended to the duties of his office, would have been obliged to neglect his own private business, in a way most detrimental to his in- terests. And besides, although he received the enthusiastic voices of his constituents, it unluckily happened, that matheuwitics had been (juite overlooked, in the extreme haste with which Mr. A had been educated for the drama of life. But such little casualties will occur sometimes, where every office is in the hands of the rabble ; and he appointed a deputy in his stead— the youth above men- tioned—receiving half the fees, as a sleeping partner with his nephew. ]3ut the nephew, although in possession of a superfluity of time, didn't know a mjuare from a triaiigle, and was obliged to farm his office out again to the colonel, on the halves, who was making a fortune then, though per- forming the whole duties, and receiving but twenty-five per cent, on the original fees charged to the dear people. Next day 1 entered on my duties— which consisted in recording in a good plain hand, the incidents of flood and field, in which the brigadier and his allies were engaged, during the memorable battles of '50 and '51. with the iJigger Indians. Part of the copy from which I formed my records, were in the general's own hand, and the various officers under his command ; part were editorials, clipped from newspapers favorable to the prosecution of the war; bat by far the largest ingredient, was the oral narrative of the fight, from the lips of the general himself The-e re- cords were all to be depoaited in the archives of the Stete, H 140 HAMBLiXf.s IN CALIFORNIA. Mf1 li 1 il :'^ I: and (u,u.c V,,,,,,,- A,.,ericas will „„ ,lo„bt be iospircd to *ed. 0, vaW, bv ,-«,di,„ U„.o heroics of their „Ct«rr i .oy ...ust h„ve h„d . t,e,„e ,„„ ti.ne of it, such „,„r t and c.,untcr.,„arc.h,n,., ehargi,,,, a„d fallin,. back-thore -.s „„ re.roati„,_bl„wi„,. up of ,„ine.,, „„d who e o uiassaores of rod skins If l,.,lf t- •. '" "noiosale of i,„t„.i;t "* " "'"•'' "••"-•' ">« battle of Au.terl,tz was but a bar-roon. row in con,pari.,on Orders rou, the .-encral, tra„s,oitted by his aids seeded o % hko crackers o,. the fourth of Jul,' and wer I'd as .f they were the wand of a magician, and thirteen con'e cut.ve vetones were achieved, in as n.any days There was none of that nnlitary brevity, nevertheles, n,uch adn.ired in the hook-nosed fellow of Role atu^ they were al volununous docuu.ente, not a tittle of etl ("otte or t,tle was forgotten, and notwithstanding a vat -nounto. bad pen.nanship and orthography, and ILll made „ the n 'T ' " ^^" P^"-'" -ntion waa made ■» the plunder account, of the acorns and crickets Zrart" V -r " ''' '""■' ''""^ '-""- "« g 't m-iai:::; "zz'triXr '^^"-' ^^ '^» would „„» T " ' '"'' '*"'^^''* ">« "ticks thetv 1 ' " '""''"'' """ '" ""' ™"-. -J-ing i-ne severest season. '^ 1 have n,y old en,ployer now, in my „,i„d-,, ,,ye as he deposued h,s burly person on a low camp stool, hs' a" bi t.o«s heels resting on the balcony; calmly sur ey n! the passing crowds on the street. There he «. I Ms war stories, ruminating the ' W' L^TZ His little pig's eyee. half hiH Jn f.Uo .r ..__i. , - ••• •-'^ V2 iiuwuoiesonie fat ■ 4 IlAMRLINfiS IN CALIFORNIA e iospirod to 3ir ancestors, ch luarching back — there i(i wholesale e, the battle comparison, litis, seemed were obeyed rteen conse- 5. 2vertheless, ^ome, about 3 contrary, ttle of eti- iing a vast i magnani- u-^t at least ntion was d crickets being the 't by the e articles -s, durins: ye, as he his ambi- ying the icoursiog eed, and beneath, onie fat, 141 and h.s flabby hands, .supported by his thumbs in the arm holes of liis waistcoat. His heavy blue cloak was al- ways attached to his laruc nock, by massive clasps of brass, on winch was developed in large letters " Excelsior '' Whether this clasp was the gift of a grateful country, or a purchase from his own privy purse, T am sorry T cannot state, but I am certain at least, that it had some mytho- logical bearing on the connection of the land with its gallant defender. For hours have I listened to his dull monotonous drawl —spiced at intervals, during periods of excitement—with huge south-westorn oaths, which, however, he bashfully commanded me to suppress in the copy. I followed him m his details, sometimes thrice over, and copied much of his manuscript besides, but the subject to mo is still wrapped in the deepest obscurity. T merely know that Brigadier (Jeueral Breeze saved the country, and to use his own literal words, "gave the diggers particular, and infer- nal fitf." The situation at ten dollars per day, and a free lunch, was a good one; and I was visibly affected and grieved, that illness compelled me to resign, but I have no doubt, he had not long to wait, to find a candidate for my vacant chair. How much these victories have cost the public, has never yet been fully made known, but the aggregate must be enormous; and the wily field officer, despite his thirst for military renown, has been by no means forgetful of indirect "spulzie;" but has feathered his military couch so warmly, that he can calmly recline, in a green old a^e and expound to his loving femily, how fields and feather^ were won in the early good old days of Califorriiu N 142 RAMBLINCiS IN CALIFORNIA. THE SPECULATOR. V ii il: .1: Seth Brown was a born speculator, he could not exist without it. Though he professed to be a member of the Baptist (niurcli, yot the church was but secondary to him, for trade was his religion and his life. He was a thin, wiry, little red haired man, extremely nervous and bustling, with a sharp, kindly grey eye, and a person al- ways punctiliously neat and clean. He had three little sandy haired children, and a wife who was a regular tar- tar; for although burthened continually, with a compli- cated out of door business, the unfortunate Seth had to perform three-fourths of the domestic duties, legitimately attached to woman's sphere ; and when he failed to per- form the smallest trifle of his allotted task, the pointed method in which that injured gentlewoman would enlarge upon her wrongs, must have made him believe himself the most wicked and black-hearted monster in the uni- verse. In his usual routine, he was out of bed at daylight to prepare the morning meal, (for $100 per month, for a hired girl, was more than his circumstances could afford,) and when this was accomplished, and the children washed and dressed, he arou.^ed his better half, who came out look- ing bilious and cross enough, but at the same time prepared to do ample justice to the excellent cookery of her husband. When he had arranged the crockery, and made all things tidy, ho posted down town to his oflice, and his lady to her gossiping acquaintances; and when he returned to dinner it was sometimes cooked for him, but these were exceptions, for he had orpnomllv fV>of /^»^^«„i.: j. ^_- I RAMBLING8 IN CALIFORNIA. 143 \ not exist iber of the condary to He was a srvous and person al- :bree little Bgular tar- a compli- ith had to Jgitiniately ed to per- le pointed lid enlarge fe himself the uui- aylight to itli, for a Id afford,) 3n washed i out look- 3 prepared ■ husband, all things s lady to turned to hese were perform himself, and also the conclusion of the household arrange- ments for the day. ^ Yet did not his heart become discouraged, nor his am- bition flag, for although burthened with the whole care of such a family, still as prop after prop gave way, of his airy castles in the city, his inventive genius soon erected another; and if he could not manage to lay up funds, he still contrived to keep his head above water, and his wife and little ones respectable and decent. He had commi.nd of a small down-east schooner, in '49, and during that year had conveyed his family hither, and left off the sea, for the purpose of pursuing his favorite inclinations in the city of San Francisco. His acquirements in litera- ture were but meagre, and yet his first attempt was the management of a newspaper; how he got through with it Heaven knows, for he never read a book, and his language was the concentrated essence of provincial Yankee ; but most likely he received assistance from some of the shoals of unemployed lawyers who then infested the city. But people would not read his paper, und so he published a book for them— a Directory for the city— which contained a large amount of useful Statistical information, correctly and neatly drawn up. This was well patronized, and he made well by it at ^5 per copy, exclusive of advertisements. But when his edition was disposed of, he was again at leisure, and started an advertising agency, that is, he kept up a correspondence with all the principal journals, and procured the insertion of advertisements by canvassing, charging a per centage upon each. This at length bccan^e his fixed occupation, for he adhered to it for several years, and kept it always as a stand-by when other re- sources failed. 14 ( HAMULI. VMS IN fALIFOIlNIA. 1 if: i 'i His next operation was to take a contract from the cor- poration, to niunber each door within the city liniitH, at which ho made UO per day until tlie work was completed; but he was obliged to collect it himself from the tax-payors, and when he went round for that purpose, the tax-payers refused to comply, alleging that the edict was unconstitu- tional, and against their consent; for they all knew their own houses well enough, and some were no way solicitous for the public to know their whereabouts. Brown, justly indignant at such treatment, attempted to reason on the matter with them, saying that it was a great injustice for them to receive the benefit of his labor, without any remu- neration for him; but they ingeniously combatted this argument by granting him the privilege of rubbing the numbers out again, if he pleased ; such reasoning as that, was of course conclusive, so he calmly put the speculation down to profit and loss, and forthwith entered the ham- washing business. Previous to the year '54, California imported all her salted provisions, and the amount of bacon and hams, annually landed in San Francisco was very large. In the long voyage round Cape Horn— some six months— many of the hams lost much of their pristine freshness of appearance, wliich much deteriorated from their value in the )aarkct, when placed in competition with handsome ones, even if equally sound, f.,r good looks are objects of importance even to hams as well as to young ladies. The observant Seth soon perceived what was required ; so he collected his cash and built him a tall smoke-house, and took contracts from the merchants to repair the damaged articles at three cents per pound. He first stripped off and threw away the greasy cover ; he then scraped them with a knife, and Kcrubbed them thoroughly with soda and hot i Ill the cor- liniitH, at ompleted ; ax-payors, tax-payers inconstitu- new their solicitous 5vn, justly on on the ustice for any reinu- atted this bbing the g as that, peculation the ham- California t of bacon ery large, nonths — shness of value in landsome bjects of es. The d ', so he use, and damaged \ off" and lem with I and hot RAMBLINGS IN CALIFORNIA. i4r> ■ i water ; they were then smoked, inserted in new bags, and packed in barrels with fresh salt, the barrel was then headed up and sent oif to the storehouse, where they became A No. 1, and brought 50 cents per pound. "Ah," said he, in recording the transaction, " that ham-washing was a sweet business, and 1 cleared to^ a day at it, for four months in a streak ; but there was too many neighbors from my own 8tate for any good, and for all I had a board wall all round the yard, and a locked door with "No Admit- tance" on it besides, the 'tarnal critters found me out; for in two weeks after they suw what I was at, the business wasn't worth a rotten gasperaux, and vulgar at that ; for there was no less than thirteen smoke-houses all in a bunch, and I cleared out, for you could'nt see the sun once a week for smoke." His next vocations were to invent a machine for catchino- craw-fish, and to plant a bed of oysters, both of which failed, and then he tried the tin business in roofing houses; raising chickens; making tomato catsup, and other callings too numerous for detail, with various de<^rees of success; and when I last saw him he was busily at work on an iron riffle for sluices, which he intended to get patented, though he never had visited the minos in his life. Although so much addicted to trading and quaint speculations, which rarely succeeded, poor Brown had a hand "open as day to melting charity," and that, too often, most indiscreetly expended; so much so, that I was at last obliged to take him severely to task for his im- provident conduct, urging that, although it was a very commendable virtue in its place, it was scarcely just, or even generou —in his then precarious circumstances— to himself or hi:, family. ^v 2 146 RAMBLINOS IN CALIFORNIA. ^^ell, said he, you've maybe hit it, for all my own townsmen here, hint that way, though their 'pinions don't hurt mc bad, for I guess I know ^/..v. pretty well. They're Quampiackers I" J "= '' Quampiackers ! What is that y" -as it possible you never heard of Quampiac ^ Well p raps you ha'nt, and if not, you needn't want to, for it has, and no mistake, a lectle the meanest location, and has some on the closest fisted folks, on this side the herrin' pond. It's away down East so far, they can never make a raise, and they will freeze to a copper cent till their joints are stiff. Indeed, it's a slim chance to get alon^, anyway, and mayhap it's the natur' of the poor fellers' J3ut, strange enough, father was as free and open handed a chap-m his riper years-as you could scare up in a prospec-ting tower from Maine to the Colorado; and signs ou It, the Brown family were allers poor as No. 8 mackerel And the strangest of it was, he got turned to that way of thinking m one night. You see. Dad, till he succeeded at last, was the most inveterate office-«eeker known in them parts. He cared nothin' about politics-it was the office he wanted; and he always contrived to get a nomination on some ticket or 'nother. Sometimes on the hard-shell sometimes on the soft, or the locofoco, or the independent; and often on no ticket but his own. At it he went, tooth and nail, year after year, till his head grew fro.ty in the unsuccessful battle. I Idnd of wonder, too, someLes, at his bad luck, for a smart man was Dad, and his views were not onreasonably aspirin' nuther, for he gen'rally run for constable, or hogreeve, or something of that natur', that he was competent enough to fill. _-., -n... .,...^, , uxcary-eyed, fiypocritical old deacon RAMBLINGS I\ CALIFORNIA. 147 II my own lions don't I. They're 3? Well, to, for it iition, and le herrin* ver make till their ?et along )r fellers ! 1 handed up in a lud signs aackerel. It way of -icceeded I in them he office ni nation rd-shelL )endent, It, tooth f in the imes, at WK were run for ir', that deacon there, by the name of Zeb Skinkcr, that allers held the office of cordwood inspector, for he suited the citizens to a hair, on account of his skinflint dealins. feo this precious «on of the church keeled over dead one day, and by some mistake or onforseen accident, the revered author of my bein' got 'pinted in his stead; and if ever there was a middle-aged gentleman sprouted two inches higher, straight off the reel, that man was Dad ! There was quite a con- siderable jollification to hum that night, and next mornin' the old man was up, bright and airly, to attend to his dooties, While he was a drawin' on his boots, a neighbor came in to borrow fire—for they don't even buy matches there— and the neighbor asked him how does he do? ob- serving at the same time, that he looked a kind of scaly about the gills. And says Dad, '^ I estimate you'd do the same if you'd had such an allfired dream as I had last night :•' '^ Du tell !" says the neighbor. Says Dad—'' Yes, I do, and what's more, I'll never disremember it, nor the moril it has learnt me, nuther !" It appears that the clam- bake the night before was orful nice, and the old gentle- man, as was by no means oucommon, had rather a'leetle overfed himself, and in consequence, feelin' drowsy, turned into bed putty quick arter supper, and the first thing he knew he made the disagreeable discov'ry that he was in the infarnal regions of Beelzebub I " There was a promiscus monotony of areat roaring brimstone fires, and all sorts and any quantity'of in-eniou^ fixins for tortur'. There was lots of folks from our way, and some of 'em communicants at that, all a workin' and industrious as their boss in a gale of wind, and among the rest, who should be there, appcricntiy quite at hum, but the seed,/ vong cordwood inspector, Zeb SHnkcr, follerin' 4 148 RAMBLINGS I\ CALIFORNIA. I jest the 'dentieal same calling as on airth, only it was brijnstone 'stead of rock maple. "So, wliile Dad was obsevvin' minootly the varieties in this onpleasant landscape, a feller comes in a drivin' a whalin' big bull team, and Skinker he goes at it, as usual, with his nieasunn' rod, and says to the feller he won't p.-^ss it on account of its bein' two inches short. And the other fcllei-, who appeared to be from Pike, commenced a cussin, quite leisurely, but rather boisterous, and Skinner follerin' suit, cussed too, and they swore away at each other duri'.i' several hours in a most onchristian manner, until they were interrupted in their pastime by the old sin- ner of all sinners himself, who was rigged out in a Shanghai coat and a great pair of sideboards, with a pen stuck behind his ear; and, great king! his tail loomed out astarn like the Cape Cod sea sarpent. His face was on- visible to Pad fi ui his position, but he could hear him plain enough, when he axed, quite mild like, what they meant by disturbin' him when he was a settlin' his 'counts 'i And Skinker ups and explains about the short measure, and says the teamster — ' Look here boss I I've been a haulin' brimstone to you nigh on a thousand year, and was allers allowed for a hull cord, more or less, and now the fust day this chap's in office he commences chaffin' and iindin' fault I' Well, with that, Satan turns slap round, and .u'cs the inspector full in the face, so mad that his tail bristled out jest like a cat's when she's got her Ebe- nezer up, and he roars out, in a voice like a thousand airthquakes — ' Skinker I pay the man for a cord ! Xone of your Quampiac tricks in this place!' "The noise 'woke fatlier up, but he believed in that dream, and his last word to mo, on the joyful occasion RAMHLINOS IN CALIFORNIA. 149 nly it was arieties in drivin' a ;, as usual, ■ he won't And the imcneed a d Skinner y at each 1 manner, he old sin- Shan ffhai )en stuck omed out e was on- hcar him what they s 'counts ? measure, c been a year, and , and now affin' and ap round, I that his her Ebe- thousand •d! None I in that occasion of my leaving them parts forever, was — ' Seth, don't be mean t' " A TRIP TO THE SOUTHERN MINES. Some years ago T collected all the funds at my disposal, with the intention of making an investment in fruit, and hearing from those persons most experienced in the trade, that the city of Los Angeles, in the southern country, was the most desirable mart for purchasers ; I forthwith determined to patronize the city of the Angels. But as I had often heard it repeated, that " It is a poor rule that won't work both ways," I concluded to make a little ven- ture downwards also. After pondering the matter over, carefully, for some time, my disturbed mind gradually concentrated itself upon fish, and, by my friend Seth Brown's advice, I bought from him, a good many barrels of smoked salmon ; and shrewdly guessing that the ab- sorption of so much salt in the system, would cause a longing for effervescent drinks, I procured an antidote in the shape of many bottles of champagne cider, manu- factured on a now system, without apples, by a famous chemist of Sun Franeisco. Every thing being pi-epared, 1 and jny precious cargo were shortly on board of the coasting steamer, that, ac- c ording to advertisement, made a weekly trip to the port of my destination. During the rushing, crowding and general excitement, always incidental on the departure of the steamer, I observed two sporting chips of the law, whom 1 had known slightly, a year previous, in the Northern mines ; but fortune not being so propitious as they desired, were southward bound, as I was afterwards 150 KAMBUNOS IN CALIFORNIA. il i ill t {' given to iiiulcrstniid, with the intention of inflicting a new.^paper on the benighted native ('alifornians. Both were in an exceedingly lively humor, and had, to all ap- pearances, been dining out, for they were amusing tliem- selves at the expense of their fellow creatures, wherever chance favored their designs. When hausers were being cast loose, the fuss became ten times more fast and furious, oranges were flying thick as hail, and good-byes were shouted in every imaginable civilized language. '' Adieu, >lon(Vn';" " Cxood-bye, Jake ;" ''Frank, my boy, take care of yourself," were all mingled in discord with the wicked curses of the captain, and the roaring of the im- prisoned monster in the hold. One of the observant edi- tors elect, at this time, sneered at his companion, and threw out some caustic insinuation, touching the other's apparently friendless condition; and the accused in- dignantly placed himself in the most prominent position, for the purpose of proving to his opponent, his large pos- session of tlutt much coveted article, and bawled at the top of his lungs—'' Good luck to you, II. Smith, my dear fellow," but an attenuated shabby man, with a cotton umbrella for a parasol, was the sole response to this chris- tian wisli, and the discomfited friendless Juan, retired from the charge in disgrace. The other now mounted in ]iis stead, and taking his hat gracefully in his hand, ex- claimed-" Allons (ieneral-Iiye-bye, Judge," when in- stantly, at least a dozen shining stovepipes were raised aloft, dazzling the speaker with the reflection from their polished surface. IIu then retired in calm dignity from the scene, and rejoined his humiliated companion, who adjourned with him to the bar, and stood the juleps in token of defeat. RAMBLINflS IN CALIFORNJA. 151 iflicting a Qs. Both to all ap- ing them- wherever rere being d furious, >jes were " Adieu, boy, take with the f the im- rvant edi- lion, and e other's ;used in- position, arge pos- d at the my dear a cotton lis cliris- , retired unted in aiid, cx- vlicn in- e raised iUi their ty from i>n, who uleps in My cider was all stowed on the forward deck, on account of its airy situation, for I was fearful that the closeness of the hold, might have an injurious eft'ect on its exploding powers. Hut, alas 1 I never committed a more fatal error, for next moriiing we were clear from the fresli breezes of the bay, and the sun cast his rays tiercely down on the windless waves of the Pacihc. Towards noun the first gun was fired from tlie central hamper, and from that time until the sun fell behind the waves of the Pacific, pop, pop, went the bottles, every half minute, as loud as re- volvers. If over there was a literal ap])licatioii of the term "paying the shot," it certainly was then, and I was the victim, for every report cost a dollar, and I was forced to endure the lieartless jests of the passengers, on the unknown proprietor, with that "infernal fire" still ring- ing in my ears. Well, the champagne was a dead loss ; and perliaps the constitutions of the Los Angelites, might be grateful for the misliap ; but the fish were a failure also, for in hot weather, people do not hanker much after smoked Salmon, salt as brine; and so I was obliged to force them on the market at a very depreciated value. With the wreck of my fortune, I purchased an assortment of fruit, consistinu- of pears, figs, peaches, and apricots, convoyed them to the coast in barrels, and had them just ready for shipv:ent on the day of the steamer's expected arrival— a very impor- tant point, for despatch is peremptorily re(iuired to make the fruit trade profitable at all. But— begging Miss Edgeworth's pardon— there is such a thing as bad luck; for what human forethought could tell, that precisely on that eventful occasion, when my whole life's earnings were at stake, the refractory steamer would break down, I 152 RAMBLIN(JS IN CALIFOHNl A. m- m s I II ;n^ and (lolny me for another ten days ? Let us (Iraw a veil over the mehmolioly conclusion, for the ren.cn.hrancc har- rows n,y feelino-s, ovon to this h.te day. Suffice it to say, that my whole car-o was vui.uMl, and I f,mnd myself onco more on the streets of San Francisco, almost i,/that posi- tion so fashionable in California, and aptly denominated '* strapped." So much did n,y loss prey upon my spirits, that I prescribed chan.n;o of scene for Tnyself, and bavin.- a friend resident in tlio valh^y of Santa (>u/, from whon, I had been Ion- divided; J came to the conclusion to pay bun a visit, and try the experiment of rustication for a few weeks, to soothe my shattered nerve.s I therefore proceeded to the place, paid my visit, i^ot tired of my own idleness, and the Iloosiers besides, and attain my ambition was stimulated with the desire of ^' niakin- a raise." So, without having any very definite idea, with regard to my future proceedings; I shouldered my pack and journeyed eastward. A long spur of the coast ran-e' nine miles in width, divides this valley from the neighbor- ing one of Santa Clara, and towards evening I had "made the transit, and was entering on the broad plains of that fertile valley. Santa (^lara is at present one of the most productive counties in the State, but much of it was, at the tinu) I 8p<'Hk of. an alnuwt unbroken wilderness, more especMally, in the central portion where 1 now was. Trudging along in the bright moonlight, my eye was already scanning the plain, in search of the softest couch, when the loud clear notes of a bugle almost close at hand, startled mo ex- ceedingly. When my first intense surprise had partially subsided, at hearing such unwonted sounds in that vast aw a veil a nee Iiur- it to say, ■^olf on CO tluit ])osi- ouiiiiated S that I laviui:; ;i 11 whom usion to Htication ves. I cot tired lid again ' making ea, with ly pack, t rangOy jighbor- d made of til at 'liuctive time I oeially, g ah)ng ing the d clear me ex- artialljr at vast HAMUr,IN<;s IN (ALiroRNiA. 1 5:^ Holituch', I turiKMl oft" Hharpjo the riglit, with tlie inten- tion of alhiying my curiosity uix.n the suhjeet. A small mound (•outaining a level surface of lu.arly j,n acre, and apparently of volcanic; origin, lay between me and the Hounds, and on gaining the summit, my surprise was yet intensified .-.t the strange sights exjxised to view. The place was one of the little oak groves, so peculiar to the region, made bright as day by numbers of torches, and eongregate,! in .me mass, within the space, there could not be less than live or six hundred persons, who instantane- ously dispelled all snpernatural illnsions I may have formed, by all uniting in cd.orus, to the good (,ld hymn entitled " I am going to the land of {'anaan." This con- vinced me at once, of my pr(.pin.,uity to a camp meeting, most probably held in this lonely spot, both fron. its ro- mantic beauty, and its central position with regard to the three large settlements of .San dose, San duan, and Pajaro. Nothing c.udd be more perfect and tasteful, than' the arrangements for comfort and convenience, under the cir- cumstances. Seats an.l slu-ds were formed of slats, brou-dit fro.n the neighboring redwoods,-vNhile the central place'^of worsh.p was sh.Mlcd by an in.m,M,se sail, which had been procured tor the pur,)ose, by s..me industrious Christian iron, the wreck of a clipper ship, on the neighboring, coast. The sle<.pi„g apartments surrounded this, and in the rear, the long tables of redwood, together with the smoking stoves, and savory stean.of beef, pc.rk, venison, and game, plainly inforn.ed the nose, of the extensive refectory. At the conclusion of the benediction, all re- tired to the well overed tables, where the hospitality was unbounded ; visitors were invited to partake of the good cheer, not only for the present, but to remain and recc-ivo .:;.«iiE;.i^il;Ci:4:j I 't! 154 HAMBL1N(5S IN CAUFOHNIA. 1 |U. a continuation of the same favors for the whole week during; which the meeting was expected to continue. As my readers — from the confession of my circumstances — are no doubt aware, that I had no peculiarly pressing enf'ao-ement iust at that time, I was induced to remain for a few days ; and although [ have witnessed many meetings of this description, and in various places, I can positively aver, that for order and decorum I have never seen this exceeded. The affair was carried out at the sole expense of about a dozen individuals, and if obtaining converts was their object, they were most certainly amply remu- nerated for their trouble and expense, for more than a hundred persons, were induced to enroll themselves on the books of the church. The society was the Methodist Chur.-h South, completely divided from, and in direct hostility to the Church North, on that one grand subject of surpassing interest, over all others — the slavery question — a subject that bids fair, not only to separate the people on religious grounds, but eventually, to break up, politically, the whole confedera- tion of the States. The Northern church has an express article in its discipline against slavery, while the other, not only expun^-cs the offensive article, but allows slavery both to preacher and jxM.ple, and even openly recommends it from the pulpit. That the people of this 8tute, however, which is nomi- nally free, should so strenuously harp upon the patriarrhal institution— as they call it— may appear strange ; but one reason is, the continuation of their old habits, and the other, the hope of forming a new State, of sound Southern principles. Indeed, the preacher, although to appearances, a conscientious and sincere man, could not even iu his RAMBLIN08 IN CALIFORNIA. 155 olc week lUC. Linstances ■ pressing emain for meetings positively seen this e expense converts )ly remu- e than a ^'es on the onipletely ch North, , over all » fair, not inds, but ^onfedera- n express ho other, ivs slaver}- ;ommeu(Jy I is nonii- itriarrhal ; but one and the Southern pearances, ^en iu his homilieH, control himself from expressing his opinion on the all-absorbing topic. He was one afternoon calling on the people loudly, to repentance, with the energy and fervor of a Jonah, and to illustrate the horror of death in sin, more especially, he described the last moments of a victim to the fury of a mob, in one of the wild South- western States. "My dear hearers," he exclaimed, "my right arm would have been freely given, to rescue that wretched victim to the power of the evil one, froni the fearful judg- ment of an abused and insulted people. He was not tit to grapple with death, or to face his God, and with the sin that bears an express curse upon the perpetrator, by the Deity Himself, he dies, accepting not of any ministry, hard and impenitent to the fearful crime, yet with the consoling words of the blessed Savicmr upon his polluted lips. Ah: n)y friends, there is a devilish fortitude, as well as there is a Godly fortitude, and the evil one sometimes deserts not his ablest supporters, even to the last; for that worse than murderer— that violator of the express command (.f (lod, and our ever-to-be remembered constitution, that man-stealer, in short— that deadliest foe to the dear rights of a free people— that veriest enemy to heathen conversion, died with a front of brass, and an eye that quaikid not before the insulted majesty of his fellow-creatures— he died as he had lived, cursed by God and man — u deluded, hardened abolitionist !" ^ These prophetic remarks were received with much unc- tion and many groans by the sympathizing congregation, and I was mentally conning over its matter, together— I confess— with some quite irrelevant thoughts, 'rerr^rding my own position and future movements, when a heavy lo(i RAMBI.INUS I\ (^ALIFOUSIA. !i' slap upon the sliouldcr, brou^lit nic to my feet, and face to face with mine ancient chum, the prince of all good fcllowx, and companion in many a previous .scene — the stalwart Mac. Times had flourished with my frie*id, durin«; the early part of the year of our separation, lie had become the proprietor of a store, and did a Nourishing trade, until collection day came round, when there being no a.ssets in the hands of his customers, and his stock thoroughly ex- hausted, he had made up his mind to try his fate once more in the mines, with his head clerk and junior partner. And as our circumstances bore a striking similarity to each other, to ,say nothing of former friendship, I was easily in- duced to form one of the party, which was to commence its journey — by the land route — on the succeeding day. And now, I trust, 1 have made it sufficiently clear to my readers, the various causes which induced me to take this trip. So I shall proceed and relate, as they occ-urred, the most exciting sights and adventures, on this — to me at least — interesting "trip to the southern mines." The same evening I was introduced in due form to the third individual of our triumvirate. My first impressions — and they continued for some tiiiie — ^vere uf a confused assemblage, and undue propor- tion of legs and arms, with no body or face, worth speak- in..; of. lie hailed from the land of Boone, and the long rifle which he affectionately claspcvl, at once attested the votary of Nimrod. A brief consultation was now held upon the spot, as touching our several resources, and the various reciuisites for the long tramp— a distance of 200 miles. We found ourselves amply able to provide the simple necessaries, with a balance in the exchequer I RA.VnLINGS IN PALIfOUMA. 157 and face all good )ne — the the early come the tie, until assets in ighly ex- fate once • partner, ty to each easily in- ommence (ling (lay. ear to my take this irred, the -to me at I form to fov some le propor- th speak- I the long tested the now hold , and the ice of 200 •ovide the ixchequer together with a good supply of camp cooking utensils, blankets, and an aged California horse, that would pro- bably go his tAvcnty-five miles a day, carrying our traps and provisions. IJoone (contributed nothing to the general fund, barring his elaborate limbs and his riile, conteudinf^ however, on the right to all the privileges of a full part- nership, from the vast utility he was to be of, in providing the larder, through the great game country we had to cross. AVith regard to the victualling department, a sack of wheat flour was passed ncm. con. I then modestly pro- posed bacon, as an agreeable accompaniment to farinaceous food, but was indignantly frowned down by the hunter ; who proposed that the words powder and shot be inserted in lieu of the swine flesh, which was passed, I being in the negative. Our negociations were then brought to a close; and the next morning shone brightly and cheerfully upon us, as wc took a bird's flight course across the plain, for the Pacheco pass, in the main coast range. The blue hills, shrouded in a thin vapor, stretclicd along our front, and the pindc of Pacheco soaring far above the rest, at u distance of twelve or fourteen miles, formed an excellent landmark to lind the entrance to the pass. A more beautiful reality of a farming country, docs not exist, than the valley we crossed to attain the pass. Level as a board, and with a rich loamy soil, on which not a drop of rain had pattered for six months at least : it was still covered with rich clover, other grasses, and wild oats in profusion, and although dry as powder, was siill Hweet and nutritive in the highest degree, as the laro-e herds of Spanish cattle we passed, fully attested by their shining coats. Thou.sands of geese, sandblll cranes, 02 .1 r lo« RAMBLINOH IN CALIFOllNIA. ill ■! I'm'-' Ill-It plover, and curlew darkened the air at intervals, and the sharp report of the rifle far a-head, told that our pioneer was busily stocking the game bag, preparatory to our meridian bivouac. Noon found us all at the entrance of the pass ; our horse was released from his burden, and we set to work, with i\\\ the skill, bought by hmg expeiience, to prepare the noon- tide meal. A turnover was soon crisping in the frying pan, and I made a desperate onslaught at once upon the game bag, beside which the long slight figure of the owner was listlessly extended. I .shook out the contents with all the energy of appetite, and out dropped the most attenuated specimen of a woodpecker, I ever beheld I Comment was unneccs.sary, for although the wretch had the impertinence, to correct me in the name I gave the thing, by blandly terming it a " Peckerwood," if he had called it a goose it would not have made it one, so we had to dispense with animal food, and poor Boone received nothing but vinegar looks, as seasonin^^ to his dry cake. Having despatched our frugal meal, we were soon once more upon the road, audslowly pursued our course through this wild and sublime region. The range at this point averages about twenty-five miles in latitude, and com- pletely severs this valley from the neighboring one of the San Joaquin. The pass is a singular freak of nature. For the first five or six miles, the ascent is impciceptible, and it varies in breadth, from a hundred feet to a quarter of a mile, the soil rich and the vegetation luxuriant ; in fiict, in all respects, a perfect spur of the valley — if we may use the expression — flanked by hills of great height, and most forbiddiuo- exterior. The very genius of want, seems to rei^-n supreme upon their surface ; some consisting of and the pioneer to our iir horse with Jill je noon- B frying ipon the 3 of the contents ;he most beheld '. itch had ;ave the ' he had ) we had received cnko. oon once through his point nd com- ic of the uro. For iblc, and rter of a in fact, we may gilt, and tit, seems listing of KAMJir.lNUS IN CAMFOHNIA. 1;-)!) mere revolving sand, and some of naked Mand.stone, that form frightful precipices, hundreds of feet in depth, and some straggling dwarf oaks, that cling tenaciously in the moist nooks, are in many places the only appearance of vegetation. From the beginning of the first rise, the road be- comes irksome, and tiresome in the extreme, though the hills are depressed, in comparison with those that flank it; so much so, that even an empty waggon, has with great care and constant attention been conveyed through, but it is an operation requiring great skill and considerable risk. On we toiled, until the shades of evening began to throw a gloom over surrounding objects, when we bef'an to look around for a spring of water, for ourselves jis well as the horse, and by which we intended to encamp for the night. At last we arrived at a point where two trails united — both equally distinct — and we settled it that I should take one which slightly diverged to the left, and lead the tired beast, who now moved at a snail's pace — my companions to take the other, for we judged by the ap- parently small angle at which the paths closed, th;it they would again meet at a short distance ahead. I acknowledge that as 1 partf:d from my associates, my feelings were none of the most pleasurable nature ; and retrospect, calling up scenes of distant home and pleasino- rccollecti(msof the past, in no respect gave me consolation, in the unpleasant predicament I now found myself. I was alone and almost unarmed ia the heart of a dreary wilder- ness, said to be full of grizzly bears, tired, hungry, and parched with thirst. This was sufficient to induce de- spondency, but had I had a foresight of the niirht of terror I was doomed to endure, my unpleasant feelings would have been niuch more acute. ^ \ hi 'ill •I ■ IGO RAMRLINGS IN CALIFORNIA. I judged I had accomplished Homewliat more than a mile on my solitary courBe^ when darkness completely enveloped me. According to our compact I halloed until 1 was completely huarse, without receiving any answering signal, and the path had for the last half mile, become so very indistinct, 1 became much of the opinion that it only existed in imagination. To increase my difficulties, I soon knew that I was skirting the side of a remarkably abrupt hill, so very great indeed, w;»s the inclination, that the weary beast, though an old packer, could only be per- suaded to proceed, by constant tugging at the halter, and often I was brought to my knees, to prevent myself from rolling down the hill, which from its resemblance to those I had passed in the afternoon, 1 rightly guessed terminated in a precipice. 1 was Jievertheless peremptorily obliged to proceed forward, for the slope effectually prevented the possibility of turning the horse, with the object of re- treating. After a wearisoiue half-hour, spent in this way, I struck into a small blind ravine, where the winter rains had scooped out a little basin, in the sandstone ledge, about ten feet s(iuarc, the rock to the right and front rising up in a perfect dead wall, while away to the left the prospect was completely lost in a yawning gulf of darkness. As no alternative remained, I formed the prui nt resolve of remain':.; all night on that .solitary spot, and forthwith proceeded to unpack the tired animal. A scrubby little oak contrived to eke out an existence on each side of the channel, to one of which 1 fastened the liorse, and with the dry sticks that lay plentifully strewed in the ravine, I soon had a roaring lire, for the night was chilly and dark as pitch, i spread my blanket before the cheerful blnzc — UA.MHLINCiS IN rALI]-Y)RM A. 161 for I Wiis too thirsty to cure for food — and as tlic graceful wreathes of smoke, softly arose from my fragrant pipe, the soothing influence of the weed was gradually imparted to my mental vision, and I soon began to moralize and consi- der of the number of earth's inhabitants, who at that mo- ment would gladly barter their fates for mine. I was slightly aroused from my reverie, by perceiving a little animal crawl forth from the decayed end of the back log, and run directly under the blankets upon which I was seated. I sprang up at once, and despatched it, and exa- mination proved it to be a very vicious species of scorpion, the sting of which fre(|uently proves fatal. Tn hunting for the scorpion, 1 also caught a tarantula, a gigantic species of poisonous spider, about the size and form of a common door knob. Here was a delightful locality for a bedroom — in the midst of a den of scorpions, and without the pos- sibility of changing it for a better before daylight, which was nine hours ofl", at least 1 So nervous did this circumstance make me — for 1 had always an instinctive horror of vermin — that 1 kept my feet for two or three hours, at least, walking three paces forward and three back, such being the utmost stretch of my prison. Tired nature by this time, could endure it no longer, and after throwing a large quantity of fre-^h wood upon the fire, lay down to rest, but with the firm resolve not to sleep ; and so much were my hearing powers stretched, for the smallest rustle in the dry leaves, the feeling became absolutely painful. At last, in spite of my resolve, 1 fell asleep. How long 1 slumbered, it is difficult to say, but at length I awoke, with a cold chill and horri- ble shuddering sensations. I opened my eyes, but without the smallest movement of mv nerson. nnd the first obj( y person, a lect 162 RAMBLINGS IN CALIFORNIA. my glance fell upon— within about nine inches of mj face— were the glittering eyes, flattened jaws, and arched neck of the largest rattlesnake I ever beheld. The fire blazed up clearly and brightly at the time, enabling me to see, with the greatest distinctness, eveiy shining scale and each particular fold of the motionless venomous monster. 3Iy eyes gazed into his, with a species of stupid fascina- tion, and although I realized my imminent peril to its utmost extent, instinctive fear prevented me from moving a single muscle. I was fully aware, that should the reptile strike me, in tlie position I then was, my case was utterly without hope, and a few hours of excruciating agony would leave me a lifeless clod, on that desolate hillside, without one kind hand to minister, or one ear to receive my last sigh. IIow long tins fearful stare continued, it is impossible to say, for T took no note of time. It seemed like hours, but most probably it did not extend to many minutes, when I could perceive an almost imperceptible retrograde motion of the head, and uiy ear detected a faint whirring of the rattle. This token, which T knew foreboded an immediate attack, appeared instantaneously to endow me with all my hereto- fore powers of self-preservation. With all the energy of despair, [ threw myself vigor- ously backward — the snake striking the next instant — ray first spring was plump into the fire; from thence I made a complete summersc^t over the recumbent horse, and then I rolled away down the hill at an angle of forty-five degrees, but was fortunately saved from utter annihilation, by clinging fast to a small bush within a few feet of the precipice, experiencing no greater loss than the skin of my hands, and ;i largo parr, of my pantaloons. With great RAMBLINGS IN CALIFORNIA. 1C3 labor I again ascended to the scene of conflict, and having armed myself with a club, met my antagonist in nearly the same position as when L took niy departure, lie had followed me into the fire, and was now writhing in agony on the blankets, but I soon put an end to his suftbrin^s by some well directed blows on the head. His lengtl^was five feet two inches, and he had thirteen rattlers and a button suspended to his tail. It now becanje necessary for me to hold another consul- tation with myself, as to the manner in which 1 should pass the remainder of the night, for I judged that it still wanted some hours of day dawn, and some kind augcl in- spired me witli a simple idea, that afterwards caused me to reprove myself severely, for not sooner taking advantage of. 1 was in possession of several fathoms of rope, with which the pack had been lashed ; this I apportioned into what sailors call clews and lanyards, to which I attached the head and foot of the coverlet respectively, and fasten- ing the end of each rope to the little oaks, I had an excel- lent hammock at once, suspended four feet from the ground. I turned in gratefully, to my swinging bed, and although my head and feet were a trifle n)orc elevated than a nautical man would consider quite ship «hape, 1 was, two minutes* utter, utterly unconscious of all sublunary things. At daylight, 1 was aroused from my deep tv.^ice, by the «ound of a human voice, within a few feet of me, which 1 soon decided to be the Kciituckian. He was in a gloomv soliloquy, every syllable of wliich 1 could clearly distinguish' but so close was n.y hanging bed to the side of the steep blufi, that he was quite unaware of my contiguity " Wal," said he, - of this here aint a a prettv eon..i.^.ra- ble mesa of hot homminy, J aint Jeems Peitibone, nor '>:t* 164 RAMBLTNOS IN CALIFORNIA. Ij 'if 1 nobody else I Here am T at last, coino to years of destruc- tion — and six foot three in my mocassins at that — with ne'er a bit of hoecake. fomarty, or dodger to stick in my blessed head, this Chuesday mornin', AJ). one thousinp^, eight liundred, aiid fifty odd. Dirty water for supper, repeat for breakfast, and a white frost for a bed kiver. Wough I 1 could chaw this minute a chunk of a dead nigger; and there's that punkin-hcaded Mac, a snoarin' away, like Sent Antn'y's falls, and has no feelinx for a young growin' feller. An that other darned ignor'nt for'ner, must ampcrsan hisself an' his crow meat boss, clean over the bluff, jest to spite a feller, I du believe. Wal I we mought have spared him and the boss, wall enough, but what did the mean cuss take the grub over with him for ? He wont want that whar he's gone, sure, the nin- compoop I iSarvc hill) riglit. what business had he to be snickerin' at a free Auier'kin's legs, or a pokin' fun at his nosey (\\S3 em ! I'm a know-northin' from this day out, if I onlv get rid of this snarl." During the outpourings of this troubled spirit, I was busily engaged in arranging the traps, and when my well- wisher had relieved himself of the burthen on his mind, I apprised him of my existence and propinquity. I then proceeded to retrace the fanciful path I had taken on the preceding evening ; and if it seemed bad at night, it was absolutely fearful by daylight, running as it did, along by the brow of the precipice, to which we had unwittingly approached, nearer than six feet, several times, and one false step would have sent us thundering down the horrible gulf at our feet. When I rounded the hill, I met Jeems, who greeted me with every evidence of pleasure, that gradually heightened destruc- t— with in my iousin<^, supper, 1 kiver. a dead snoariii' IX for a ignor'nt ss, clean Wai : enough, ith him the niu- h(^ to be m at his day out, t, I was my well- mind, 1 I then n on the t, it was along by yittingly and one horrible 2eted me ightened RAMIILTNUS IN CALIFORNIA. 165 into a broad grin of exultation, as his longing eye felf upon the mess bag, safe and sound. We aroused Mac,, who was sleeping comfortably by a rather indifferent spring, and after partaking of some hot coifee and bread, we supplied our faithful Jim with some water and barley, and proceeded onward, inspirited and refreshed. This day was a momentous and wearisome one. It was up one hill and down another, constantly, in the early part of the day; and in the afternoon we found ourselves in the level pcn-tion of the pass, which extends into the mountains from the San Joaquin valley, somewhat resem- bling the opposite side, but shorter and wider. At dark we arrived at the western side of the valley, and finding a good spring, we took up our (juarters and spent a very comfortable night. It must not be imagined that Jeems was idle all this time, far from it, for although he had provided nothing for so far, excepting that ghost of a woodpecker, he had already blazed away the chief portion of the powder, and I verily believe, that he considered himself a very useful personage, and that we could make but a very indifferent fist without him. On the first day's walk in the plains of the San Joaquin, he, as was usual with him, preceded us a mile or two on the path, with the design, no doubt, of intercepting hares or antelopes, that might otherwise be ilarmed at the presence of so large a partv. The land, for this whole day's march, was slightly un- dulating, like a rolling prairie, and too light and gravelly,, fc iuceessful cultivation. No human habitation was risi- ble ; and in the distance could be seen immense herds of antelopes and wild horses ; the latter chiefly led on by some patriarchal stallion, would sometimes approach within a p mi ,1 : 4 I 166 RAMBLINGS IN CALIFORNIA. few hundred yards of us to reconnoitre, and then, evi- dently not relishing our appearance, would dash away to- wards the wide tules, with a pace like a whirlwind. Seventy miles off in our front, and at right angles to our course, rose the dim blue mountains of the Sierra Nevada ; and a long fringe of oaks halfway between, marked the serpen- tine course of the San Joaquin. The remainder of the plain was treeless, and destitute of grass, except in some low spots, few and far between, like an oasis in the desert. The wild things, though, seemed to enjoy it much, and our steed cropped the fragrant bushes that chiefly covered the surface, with every appearance of satisfaction. We had; been moving on very quietly for two or three hours, and had seen, nor heard any thing of our pioneer; we were getting slightly uneasy in consequence, when on gaining the summit of a small swell in the land, we per- ceived almost close to the road, the illustrious Pettibone himself, up to his elbows in blood and grease, disembowel- ling a fat antelope — a regular " heart of grease." " Ah, ha I" he crowed, '' I don't savy plugging ante- lopes, don't I ? Oh, no I I ain't a dead shot, nother, ain't I ? No, sir-r I I waste powder, too, do I '/ Tn course I do. Fetch along that frame of a boss, will you ^ right smart, and tote off this here venison." ''Look at that," he continued, pointing to a bullet hole in the hide, " thar's a wownd for you ; I sighted right for that white spot, onder the fore shoulder, and plumped him clean, whar he lived — aighty rod by Jackson — never kicked." " Be off, now ;" he concluded, with the air of a monarch, '' nack off vour meat, while I load sweet Nancy agin." A. V We started once more, taking wivb. us some of the I evi- R AMBLINGS IN CALIFORNIA. 167 choicest pieces, and left the remnant for the cayotas or prairie wolves, and made as many calculations about our prospective dinner, as ever did poor Oliver Goldsmith, over his famous hauiich. We had not proceeded more than two hundred yards in the van, when we perceived a horseman to our left, riding at a full lope, and approach- ing us at an angle, evidently with the intention of cutting us ofi". He closed on us rapidly, and ])is first salutation was a brusque in(|uiry, as to what might be our particular business with his meat. Surprised at the question, we indignantly informed him that it was our own property, and was shot by our other partner, who was now appr-oacl^ ing us with his rifle reloaded. When he arrived, the stranger firmly persisted in his demands ; affirming, that he had shot the animal out of a large herd; an hour previous, and he had merely alighted to cut his throat, as he wished another shot at the herd. lie also described to an inch, the locality where it lay, and added, that the bullet entered a white spot immediately beneath the left fore shoulder. This was proof positive to me, and I forthwith advised Jeems, to deliver up, with as good a grace as possible. He seemed no way inclined to comply with this advice— most probably from shame — but as he evidently feared the de- determined front of the stranger, he reluctantly complied, exclaimina,' : — " Wal, stranger, I reckon you can have it, but as sure as Old Hickory's in Heaven, I thought 1 shot it, squar in its tracks." This little incident, however, ended the hunter's occu- pation ; his title became for the remainder of the way merely honorary, and the honor consisted in luggino- along his clumsy twenty pound rifle, himself. I 168 RAMBLINUS IN CALIFORNIA. This night we remained on the phiins, and arrived the succeeding day on the banks of the river, close to the influx of the Mercedes. It was very low at this time, yet still a noble stream, and seemed fairly alive with small fish, principally bass, perch, and suckers. There was a hog and cattle ranch at the place, to which was attached a small store, for i.hc accommodation of the few farmers scattered along the intcval of the river. The land, for a mile or two on each side of the river, is very fertile, and not very inconvenient to market — but fever and ague are very pre- valent, in August and September. While hunting up some drift wood, for the purpose of cooking coffee, I observed an old superannuated seine, lying on the bank, that most probably had been thrown aside by some fishermen, during the preceding summer, as unscaworthy ; and proposed that we should borrow the punt, belonging to the ranch, and try our own fortune for a dinner. With the assistance of two travellers, whom we met at the ferry, we acted on the hint. Leaving two of the party with one line, we vowed out towards the mouth of the tributary ; we then paid out the net, made a sweep, and commenced hauling in. As the net gradually col- lapsed by our united efforts, the stiv in the water increased, until it actually seemed to boil, and it was only by dint of great exertion, that wc succeeded in hauling to land. Tie little fishes swarmed in thousands, but chiefly managed to escape, through the large meshes and rents. 13ut the larger fry were not so fortunate, for we contrived to cap- ture eighty-two splendid salmon, many of them more than thirty-five pounds in weight, and none less than ten. We threw them up on the bank behind us, which was probably five feet in height, perpendicular from the water's edge. ivcd the he influx fdi still a lull fish, I hog and 1 a small scattered a mile or not very very pre- urpose of ed seine, 1 thrown summer, urrow the »rtune for I's, whom Qg two of le mouth 3 a sweep, daily col- ncreased, )y dint of nd. Tie in aged to liut the d to cap- II ore than :en. We I probably ir's edge. HA.MBLINUS IN CALIfUKMA. 1G9 And after the fatiguing exercise— that had only occupied about twenty minutes liowevcr — we sat down on the beach to rest, and congratulated each other on our good fortune. The Kentuckian i)roposcd that we should go into the curing business at once, by drying the lish in the sun, and then sending them to the mines in Tuolumne or Stanislaus ; and the aole way that he looted the sum total up, reckon- ing 240 per hour— 12 hours to the day, and 25 cents per pound — showed that he knew something of the primary rules of arithmetic at least. J3ut we were suddenly inter- rupted, in the midst of our castle building, by the mangled remains of a fish, that tumbled over the bank, on our heads, accompanied by a squeak, and the sound of a scuffle. We were soon on the bank, and such a scene of carnaoe. it never was my fortune to witness. More than three hundred hogs had scented their prey, from afar, and pounced on the salmon like a hurricane. Hungry as death, they tore the lish asunder, while still wriggling in their jaws, and bit and mangled each other savagely, in the madness of their excitement. All attempts to drive them off, were ridiculous and unavailing, and it was only by much exertion and strong fighting, that we succeeded in rescuing four from their clutches, for our own consump- tion ; these we cleaned and hung up in the sun, for future use, reserving one for present purposes, and with the as- sistance of some butter and potatoes, that we procured at the ranch, we made a most appetising meal. Next day, we struck out for the Tuolumne river, which still lay between us and the mountains. This is a Uiuch more fertile country, than that we pa.sscd through on the preceding day; the interval or bottom land as it is termed in the West, extends to a much greater width on P2 f 170 RAMBLINGS IN CALIFORNIA. 1^1 r I • \. tho banks of the streams, and the intermediate portion, has a heavier soil, and produces spoutarn (-u is in srreater abundance. We reached the river 1 >ioic' n!},hlfall, en- countering nothing worthy of record ; and the succeeding afternoon, commenced the ascent of the foot hills of the Sierra Nevada; the increased number of roads and trails in every direction, plainly informing us of our neiirhbor- hood to the land, " Out of whose hills, thou mayst dig brass." This evening, wc were much puzzled at one point, to find the right road leading to the place we had intended for our destination ; and we consequently diverged slightly towards a ranch house we saw, for the purpose of making the necessary inquiries. The building itself, attested the nationality of its owner. Two substantial log houses under one roof, with the intermediate space, floored, but not closed in at the sides ; with a more unpretending structure, about twenty paces ofi*, proclaimed the dwelling house of the Texian, together with the pen for his " ser- vants." A very corpulent negro wench, of matronly appearance, sat at the door plucking a goose ; and beside her — with his hands stuck firmly in his pockets — was her wooly patcd son, I presume, aged probably eighteen years. He was watching, at the moment, with a very enthusiastic eye, a cat fight ; the animals being attached to each other by the tails, and then thrown over a clothes line, suspended a few feet from the ground. He was making a violent effort to appear unconcerned, by striving to pucker his thick lips into a whistle, but it would not do, for the young Sambo's eyes exhibited unequivocal signs of satisfaction, despite his demure face ; although he had only been the instrument in getting up this pretty pastime, for the ex- »M J 'g RAMBLINC.S IN CALIFORNIA. 171 press Himisemeiit of young massa— a red haired, freckle faced imp of eight or ten— whose happiness appeared com- plete. I propounded the necessary interrogatories to the young negroj respecting our dilemma, and while he was endeav- oring to enligliten me, making confusion more confounded, with one saucer eye on me, and one on the feline combat, a huge burly personage, some fifty years old— with his short .sandy hair combed straight over his eye brows, making his forehead villainously low— emerged from the middle porch, and strutting right up to where I stood, opened the conversation himself. ''Oh, stranger .' yeour from the east, I reckon." I made him a polite negative to this iniiuiry — though I knew well what he meant— by informing him, that I was last from Santa Cruz. '' Oh ! blast Santa Cruz !" said he, " I s'pose yeou was raised somewhar, warn't you ?" " Yes," I replied, " born to the eastward of this, most certainly." "Wal," he exclaimed, "yeou have, mayhap, heern tell, that Scriptur' says, the wise men conie from tharaway, and ef so be, the folks raised thar, air so darned wise, why they've got gumption tu, an. ef they've got gumption, they mought, sartin, be coaxed to take a hint ; an' ef they will take a hint, yeou'll oblege me, by tellin all the blue bellies yeou can skear up, not to meddle no how with a free Texian, or say one sylahle to his property, anyhows or anywhere's ; for by ./ce-hosaphat, I'd a leetie raither let daylight into a whinin, cantin, paper-faced abolitionist, than kick a cussed, lazy, wooly-headcd ni2<jer!" And suiting the action to the word, ho applied his 172 RA.MHLIiNOS IN CALIFORNIA. if I - ample cowhide boot to the property in que.stion, a poste- riori, and hmdctl him most suddenly and unexpectedly, on the tub of teatliers, which his mammy had just care- fully lille<l, this he inverted aloD<^with his maternal parent, and amidst the bellowing of boMi, the curses of the incensed owner, and the cloud of down scattered by the wind, I made my escape, without ac(|uiring the information I sought. We found the road ourselves, without much difficulty, and in two days more, were busy in prospecting a bar on the Stanislaus ; but as that opens new scenes and associa- tions, not properly belonging to the objects of this sketch, I shall here conclude my " Trip to the Southern xMines.'' AN OIIATION. :i*' For a few mouths prior to the election of President Pierce, the sole occupation of a large portion of the peo- ple was electioneering. 3Ioncy and time were squandered in profusion by both parties ; and no stone was left un- turned to encourage the vacillating, or to intimidate them as the case might be. Paid, and unpaid orators, har- rungn.-d each night in the streets of the cities, and even in the smallest villages, to attentive crowds. Transpa- rencies, with patriotic sentiments, paraded every thorough- faro. Ephemeral newspapers, of Lilliputian dimensions but high sounding tithes, such as " The Banner of Liberty," " The Jkilwark of the J3rave,'' " Freedom's Saviour," &c., rained over the country, and were perhaps paid for by some one; and the established press, thundeied out (ie- KA.MBLINGS IN CALIFORNIA 173 n postc- pectedly, just eare- il parent, incenyed wind, I ination I lifHcuIty, a bar on I as.socia- s sketch, Mines.'' 'resident the peo- uinderod left un- ite them )rs, har- md even iVanspa- loroujrh- tensions /iberty," IV," &e., I for by out (ic- nunciations ajjainst the one, and proportionate euhigi. .^ on the other. Every trifling action in the life of eithc p^' 'ate or public, from the cradle to their present pL t ,.i, was animadverted upon, in the strongest of ter;:is; .vid if one tenth part of what was printed of either, wa. co.ruct, they were both better fitted for the tender mercies of Jack Ketch, than to grace the most exalted position, within the gift of a powerful nation. It was certainly a great puzzle, to penetrate the caui*e, which induced people to neglect their private affairs so much, for the election of the Presi- dent, particularly in California, The idea of them all being office-seekers, was simply ridiculous, for independent of their great numbers, some of the most enthusiastic busy-bodies in the campaign were men to whom office was worthless and inconvenient. Patriotism might perhaps serve for a reason, but the hottest of these same politicians would openly acknowledge, the inefficiency and uselessness of their State government, as well as the general, to con- trol the people of this State, either in punishing the guilty, or protecting the innocent. But perhaps they acted on the maxim of " Try, try again,'' and it may be, a shadowy outline of some responsible system, already glared before their excited fancies. But be the cause as it may, all fought like heroes in the service ; and it was really interesting to observe, that, in spite of the lengthened apprenticeship to republicanism, the ancient veneration for hereditary honors, has yet far from become extinct, even here. Scott's ancestors, had each a little biography of his own, for two hundred years back, as giving him a sort of venerable right on the suf- frages of the worthy people, who were earnestly implored 174 RAMBLINGS IN CALIFORNIA. to " throw up their greasy caps/' fur this illustrious scion of a Ion- line of glorious ancestors. But the Scottites slightly overreached thems.ilves in this point, for the Piercites, fol- lowing in their train, showed themselves more skilled in genealogy, and carried us rearward to the days of the wizard (Jlendowen, tracing back from son to sire, until concentrated at last, in that mirror of ancient English chivalry, the ill-fated, gallant Hotspur. ^ There was a great gathering of the Scott clans, held in Sacramento one evening, outside a fancy saloon, gilded like a parrot's ca re, and bearing the Spanish cognomen of the Adobe; frou, the fact of its being built on the remains of an old mud euitice, supposed to be the oldest in the city. It has long since evaporated, with hundreds of its neighbors, in the groat fires to which the place has been so subject; but was, at the time I speak of, in all its pristine freshness and glory. When I approached, an orator was already on his legs, vexing the placid air of night, witli a voice like a pair of bagpipes, his auditors lining up the street on either side, within hearing of his nasal pliillipics. I knew he must have been a remarka- ble man, for the crowd applauded vastly, when he came ti such words as— -Lone Star," "Our Flag," ''American Ivigle," (.Ve. ^ but 1 liad lost much of tlio addre.ss by my late arrival, and in fact, only arrived in good time for the pororalioii, and hero it is, — •■ And now, to conclude, felow citizens, [ want yeou nothen more nor less, but to come up like what yeou are. and what yeou'r knowed, and feered to be, over the whole 'varsal creation—///.^ ."^prycst, fhc cutest, and far mo<t peowerful, and iVcest people on this everlastin almidity globe; I want yeou, [ say, to come up like what I've pic- [1 RAMBLINGS IN CALIFORNIA. 175 tur'd yeou to be, and vote for tlie great presarver of this blessed union — the hero of Churubusco, the con(juer()r of Chihuahua, the keeper of the keys of Montezuma, the great, the mighty General Scott. Of heroes, my friends, he is the lone star of all, in fact the very top notch, and ef yeou blind yeour eyes, and won't know it, why the Europeans will, for they know it well, and kalkilate thar motions by yeour'n. Don't yeou know that the nurses in Rooshay, try to still thar squiillin brats, with repeatin his name in full'/ Doesn't Boney even, found his hopes of enslavin the French people, on yeour rejection of your great general ? And doesn't the Britishers have no interest in this all-powerful o'er-masterin subject ? Think yeou gentlemen, that they have not thar eye on this great country, now 't Aye ! and her emissaries are even now in our midst. They envy us ; they hate us, but most perticerly they fear us; for she already begins tu know that we are the phwiiix that are to soar aloft upon her ashes ; she begins tu feel, that her ineasure of iniquity is full, and that our great Scott, if elected— and most sartin he will— will be the means of dashin' the pisened chalice from her polluted hands, so that in the eiuphatie words of Holy Writ — <sheshant rule over tlio nations no more.' " Yes; even th;,t small, but proud female. Victory, is a watchin' operations, is a watchin' the times from iier teower m London, an' a shakin' in her white satin shoes, for fear that you will not vote for Pierce, and why, i ask, should she not ? Was it not Scott that humbled the proud Lion in a hundred conflicts ? AVas it not him that stopped their encroachments, in Mexico, and gained to the Union this country, whose sands are gold. And was it not Scott that 176 HAMHMN(iS IN ('AI.IFOllNIA. \J' lit (if i •ii! *'f ■sent tlie British Lull Lack a rourin, with his tail atwixt his lo.irs. iVoiii the bloody hattlc fields of New York ^ Let niK-ient and lundern history ho hauled over, a)id Avhat will it present y )Vhy, it will tell ye.,u of a (!esar. a Alexander, and a Honey, that would have thrashed Wellinofon like a sack, only for JJlueher an<l his Prooshians— })ut where will you lind a .^cott r Whar's hin o.juals anion- the slaves of earth's despots y Nor, turnin' to the l..n,o' eataloouo of heroes, that font, and bled, and die<l, in a buildin' up the fabric of this tremendous confederation, can we lind a lit companion to tiiis, our present nation's pride and -lory. To the rally, and the rescue then, Wliius ! and suj)port, to a man, this greatest of the gieat, who alone of all the proud names ycou can muster, is able, durin' oiu; tarni of office, to bring the hull might of com})incd JOuropu, a. crouchin' at your indignant feet. " //r never got sick upon the lield ..f battle, and keeled over from his horse, wiien 8anty Anny was a coinin' down upon him, with his murderin' niggers, IJut it u-ns him, that sent them and their paper cigars a flyin', like corn- stalks and undjrellars in a lively hurricane. And I'll tell yeou wliat, my friends, a namin' no names, but hewnHiiof. the man that presented the boy with a cent, to purchase a stick of 'lasses candy. T say (.net; uiore to yeou, shove up the man that will make the haughty, antifjuated aristocrats of Kurope, cut thar very jug'Iars for spite, wheti they see the sun (.f liberty a mountin' in the west, and a spreadin' his alkilliu' rays over thar benighted lands. For the time is a sure comin', when, if we have this great con(]ueror at our head, the broad folds of the stars and stripes shall float gracefully over the Kramlin of Moscow, and an Amer'kin army shall march in good order over London bridge, to the Soul inspirin' notes of Yankee Doodle." Ill atwixt Let .- V Avliat will lexaiulcr, oil like a vliero will slaves of iiloiiuo of i' U}) the liiul a lit id -lory. ij)port, to )f all the ! tarin of lurope, a. d keeled ill' down ('({s hi in, ke corn- 1 I'll tell was no/ rchase a diove up is too rats they see prcadin' the time ueror at hall float iner'kin idge, to RAMT{MN<]S IN CALIFORNFA 177 Justus this delij^htful vision vras pictured so graeefully to the admiring patriots, the fire-bells clanf^od from every engine-house, and scattered them pell-mell, eacli to his own location, or, 1 do verily believe, he would soon have had the meek-eyed moon herself, branded with the [J. H. It afterwards transpired, that tlie alarm was merely a rase, got up by the loco focos for tlie purpose, who dreaded the sledge-hammer effects of the orator's ek)quenee, on the sympathising hearts of the people. THE surgeon's ride. He was a prominent member of our company (which was denominated the " Eureka," jnir ixaJhrnce, although we rarely found aught but good appetites and lame backs about sundown.) His name was unknown, but we called him Sawbones; for he was an M. I)., and held a paper which he often showed, and called a diploma. He was one of those vast shoals of doctors, annually manufactured in some of tlie States, and then thrown helplessly upon an unpitying world; half educated, but tho.'oughly licensed to kill or be kilhMl. Althougli a tender fledgling, he was constitutionally fond of his ease, and heavy potations were his weakness. The latter he gave as hi v<>nson for rarely volunteering his services to ])rocure provisl. is from the nearest grocery, which was six or seven miles from our camp; and as this road was a part", '"V dreary walk, being unfortunately neitlur planked Jiui macadamized, a foot journey was eciually distasteful to all of the party. The purchase of a stalwart horse was, therefore, the result of 'I 178 RAMBLIN(iS IN CALIFORNIA. . Si our cogitations on this important subject, who was hir<;c cnougli, to be sure, although Jiis prici; appeared very sus- piciously small. Ilis name was '' IJoneyj" but whether this title was an a])breviati()n, commemorative of the little corporal of Marengo, or from its bearing a direct allusion to llic (juantity of ossified matter contained in his system, must forever remain a mystery. Certain it is, that bones might correctly be said to represent his leading feature, so prominent they were, and so gigantic. This framework was tightly covered with an uncomfortable looking hide and the capacious regions enca-^ed by it had been the bourne of innumerable barley-lields, at ten cents per pound. But no doubt existing about his being " all horse," and as he was not procured for the sake of beauty, or for any particular benevolent designs cherished for him by his buyers, his capacity as a bearer of our burthens was shortly tested, without ceremony or respect for his gray hairs. Mr. Sawbones discovered immediately, by intuition, that some tom-iron was indispen.sably requisite, in order to develop more fully the resources of the Eureka company, and he handsomely tendered his services to procure it from tiie aforesaid grocery, with the assistance of Bon(>y. liis gracious ofier was vi' course accepted, and a great many other important comniissions w«!re entrusted to his charo-e. Among the heterogeneous items to he jtrocured were the following, to wit : one cwt. of flour, a (juantity of red paint molasses, butter, colfee, itc, with six pounds of nails, and a tea kettle; the whole of vrliich would comprise a heav} pack of itself, and the courier departed ainid,-t general good wishes, with a clcnin sliirt and a smiling countenance. Alas ! mucli may be comprised in the journey of a day. The sun — as he always does — luounttHl to the meridian. • f IIAMKLINOS IN TALIFORNIA. 179 was largo very sus- ; whotlicr tlic little t allusion is system, hat bones eature, so raniework nn<;' hide been the er pound. fse," and r for any in by his as sliortly hairs, tion, that order to company, le it from ey. His oat many s charfice. were the red paint lails, and .' a hoav} : j^enoral itenanee. uf a day, meridian, and his declining rays lit the weary miners to their lowly cots. ]3ut a gap was in the circle— Sawbones, where was he 'i' Echo iK.r anything else made reply, vhio darkness, coupled with a heavy rain storm, do -d over flood and field. In our disn)al, lealcy cabi ,, \irk forebodings br-an to beha/.anled— not only concon ..:,■ on,- own fate, but of the unfortunate nie.-senger, an<l the ugly beast that bore him company; and I shanu> to say it, ami bl.ish wImIc [ J write, nearly all .mr sympathy was expcmled on the latter, dust at dawn the ri.lerless steed was foun.l at tlie door in a very unenviable pickle. Xature, J had lliou-ht in one of her <,uaintest freaks, had done her worst for him long since, but the illustriou.< mare of (,)uixotte might as well ape IJueepJiMlus, as the present shajM'less thing attempt to vie with the sprightly animal that eoeked his tail .so jocundly on the j.revious morning. Still, it was he; there was no forgetting that Roman nose, ami those great'anatu- mieal eorners for whieh he was ,so f.mous. Ifis limj.ing legs wer.> encrusted with mud, and the ensanuuined si-n of despair was on his bridle; his whole body was parti- coIohmI as the map of Hurope, an<l he hung his classical head and droo])ed his tail with slianic aiul agoiiv. After a earefu! analysis „f ih,; various rainbow tints with wliieh ho was adorned, the groundwork was decided to eoiisivf ,,f -^uperfine flour, at ninety cents per pound, ami (he remain- der a nuMlhy compound of unknown proportions .,f red paint, molasses, butter, gnmn.l <,,f]'ee, Sec, (he whole formin;.; .piire an expensive pieture, though a very eoarsa daub. The lidless amd pipdess kettle, whieh eont-.ined a tew nails, still <-lnng to the saddle's apolouv, its battened -^ides mutely elo,^uent of the fearful ordeaJ it liad },a-ed • 9 180 RAMBLINffS IN CALIFORNIA. '■'f but, worthless as it was, it formed the silken clow by which we hoped to track the courser's flijj^ht, and trusted to find at least the last sad relics of the luckless practitioner. Nail following; nail, as they had bounded from their recep- tacle, guided our search, and fragments of the wreck strewed along, gradually prepared us for the horrible tragedy ; and on entering an abrupt defile, about three miles from camp, we were at once put in possession of all the circumstances relative to the disaster. Sawbones was discovered in a recumbent position, and still breathed j indeed, after a hearty shake, he slowly arose, when wc discovered to our amazement that he was (juite sound, and on being begged to explain, he ingenuously unbosomed himself. On his arrival at the store, he met with many congenial spirits — for members of the faculty Avere at that time much plentier than patients — and had, as was usual with him, imbibed an unlimited number of whiskey cocktails, and then proceeded to got his order filled, w^hich was promptly done. It then occurred to his frugal mind that wood was also required in the construction of a tom, and he procured one hundred feet of bonrds, whieh he lashed on the back of the alrcadv loaded beast, and then com- menccd his homeward journey. But the Monongahela sadly bothered hiui, and the road was soon lost ; he then determined, as a (hr)iirr rc^m-f, to nn»unt IJoney, trusting to his sagacity and propensity for ])arley as tlie surest method of finding his mountain home. Now, be it known, that Honey's appearance was a precise index to ))is char- acter, which had always been as wormwood, from colthood; and old age, joined to the vicissitudes of a mining career, had by no means tended to sweeten his temper. Me had RAMBLINGS IN CALIFORNIA. 181 by which cd to find ictitiouer. eir recep- he wreck horrible out three don of all bones was breathed j when we oimd, and nbosomed congenial that time isual with cocktails, 'hich was mind that torn, and he lashed then coin- nongahela ; he then ', trusting lie surest it known, > 1)is char- colthood ; ng career, He had already manifested his disgust to the general proceedings by sundry kicks and attempted bites, but this climax of injury was unendurable, and the ''Little Corporal" at once proceeded to resist the Allies. The last reminiscence of the disciple of Oaicn were: in the first place an ex- tremely elevated position, succeeded by the reverse, and a sound nap, from which we were the lir.-^t to arouse him. This was thc/i,ia/r' to our medical friend's gold seeking career. No persuasions could induce him to return, and he be(|ueathed his claim to the company, as an e(|uivalent for §200 consumed by his '' little spree." I have not since heard of him, unless my suspicions be correct, that I encountered him lately on the wharf in San Francisco, in the capacity of a hotel runner. He was at the moment employed in enlarging on the delicacies of his employer's larder, and depreciating that of his rival by dark insinuations of cold dry-hash being served up twenty-one times per week. JOE. And shall I banish thee from the recollection of those memorable days, my honest, gentle, little Joe ? Should I so far do injustice to thy memory, well might my nights of slumber in after years, be disturbed by a reproachful vision of thy (juaint four-feet-uine ligure, snugly appareled in butternut-dyed garments, from the loom of the thrifty helpmate, on the banks of the distant Ohio; and thy half sad, half comical features, anxious and energetic, would recall nw to a portion uf my duty yet utifuldlled. |i ls2 HAMBLIN<}S IN CALIFORNIA. My lirst ao<(a;iiiitancc with liiiii, occurred in a small mining; camp in tlio county Tuolumiu!, of which locality he had been a resident fur more than nine months, prior to my own arrival. He had not yet attained liis majority, but was already the protector of a wife and son, in one of the wc.^^tern states; and his features displayed that sub- dued and care worn expression, so often set down by the enemies of the sex, as ilic unfailinii' tjpe of heiipeckinti' ; and, to say the truth, a dauuerreotype which Ik' much treasured, displaying the ample bust and eommanding fea- tures of his buxom better half, served in no way to disprove the repcjrts, of his submission to a protracted system of petticoat li-ovennnent. Ik this as it niiji,ht, his search for i^old — lik(i tliousands of others — had been a vain oiu', and his bad luck, united to his eccentric system of labor, was a standinj^ jest to each lazy lounger of the grocery ; and harsh witticisms, touching his mortgaged corn patch at home, and the iron rule of his gigantic partner, were bro- ken unfeelingly, in the presence of the inoflensivc little man. doe, hov/ever, appeared to pay no attention to their im- pertinent inuendoes; he persevered industriously in his avocation as a diggei', injured no one, and calmly sank his shafts. His plan of labor, which he had strictly attached himself to, during his whole residence in the camp, was the most exciting, yet riskey, of any to which a miner can possibly apply himself. Ho could always, by working in the ravines, make small but constant wages, and thus, by frugality and ^ dustry, eventually save money — but he had niuch ambition, and he \vell knew, that the deep dig- irinss, although on the average presenting a dangerous lottery, were the ones in which the largest strikes were a small L locality -lis, prior uajority, n one of hat sub- 11 by the [tcckiiiu' ; K' much diug-fea- tlisprovo y.stcm of earcli for one, and ibor, was ;vy; and patch at ivcre bro- ive little their im- y in his sank his attached imp, wavS liner can )rking in thus, by —but he leep dig- angerous ves we re RA.MBLI\(i8 IN CALlFuHMA. 1S3 chiefly made; and he had, roasoning therefrom, come to the determination, of consecrating a year to the speculative fortunes of a prospecter. i':ach d:!y, regularly, ;is the sun lirst gilded the massive eastern brow of the Ta])le mountain, might his unobtrusive form be seen, treading his way amid the huge holders of scoria, that lay thickly over the wliuje district, ;is thev had rolled down in the marcli of time, I'rum tlie mountain summit— stooping beneath the weight of his pick and shovel on one shoulder, and his pan supported beneath the opposite arm ; his meek eyes bent upon the p;ith, beaten by his own constant footsteps, :ind his mind no doubt re- calling past scenes of his distant home. At the time I saw him, more tlian thirty holes had been sunk to the ledge, but as yet the proceeds had barely sufficed, to pur- chase for him life's necessaries. Hut still he toiled, through wind and rain, or scorching sun, as the seasons rolled on in their relentless course, and gradually the well worn butternuts exhibited unequivocal symptoms of decay ; for dark patches of a foreign color and material, already de- faced the original well-grounded dye. The last shovelful of the forty-fifth shaft, left him some dollars in arrears at the store, on a Saturday evening, and another three weeks would complete his term of probation. With astonishing pertinacity, he commenced a new one on the succeeding Monday, and on the same day at noon was master of 8500. The long wished for lead had been at length found, jind in four weeks )nore he departed for his home, with a purse of 812,000~leaving, with charac- teristic generosity, -S50 with a surgeon, to set the broken leg of a good-for-n. .thing scamp, who had unceasinulv made h-m the subject of his carse wit. Fiire thee well. Joseph \ 18+ UAMBLINCJS IN CALIFORNIA. And may thy bulky .spouse deal kindly by thee, and have charity to all thy failinfrs, for much did you endure and much accomplish, that you might give the lips you loved, unborrowed bread. • Vf THE ALCTIONKKiJ. 8ix Hundred and Forty Hod Bar, on the lower portion of a worn out river, had an evil reputation ; the place was, besides, very unprepossessing in exterior, and not a whit better than its looks would seem to imply. The gold was so very fine, that it was scarcely perceptible, and its proudest boast — for every camp has certain private annals of its own — was of a famous individual yclept ilardbrcad, who had, on one solitary occasion, according to tradition, fallen foul of a pocket on the ledge, and had he not been attacked with an unnatural fantasy to wash his shirt while in the very spring-tide of good fortune, would actually have acquired five dollars, between sun and sun. But the story is wrapped in much myth, for, though I shame to write it, the Six Hundred and Forty Rod Barrites were much given to lying. A generally unerring guide to judge the prosperity of a milling camp is the store, and probably few scurvier depots for merchandize ever existed, than the one that graced the most commanding position on our bar. For a hundred feet of a radius it was completely blocked up by a pcr^.ct chevaux defrizc of empty boxes and barrels, superannuated mining tools, and the leavings' of every broken minor who had shaken of!' the dust of his foot airainst the ])lai'>j, I RAMHLINGS IN CALrFORNfA. ISf) ind have Jure and uu loved, Portion of laco was, )t a whit gold was and its te annals irdbrcad, tradition, not been lirt while actually \u. But I shame •ites were crity of a er depots raced the hundred a pcr*^,ct annuated incr who he ]>la<'0, besides dirty hogs and dirtier, squalling, half naked children, with bleached hair and projecting eyes. Now, as all these trifling fixings were the reverse of nice, no visitor in his rational senses, would be prepared to find a boudoir in the main edifice itself, but here it was worse, if possible. The hole was about twelve feet S(|uare and accommodated the patriarch himself, his lean freckled-faced wife, and the aforesaid pledges of their mutual affection. It contained also a full supply of diggi.ig utensils, sour flour, beechnut pork and new whiskey, all jumbled together on the most methodical system of filthy confusion. When I first met the lord and master of all this delec- table property, I made an effort to rouse myself, feeling almost persuaded that I labored under a hideous attack of nightmare. I thought it might be a vision of Elshender the recluse, or maybe the old man of the sea, but it was actual bone and muscle, and that of the most substantial description, as I was often convinced of afterwards, by witnessing its effect, in chastising various delinquent debtors. He had followed the occupation of mining for nearly half a century, yet were his great square proportions still well developed, and his gigantic strength unimpaired. The bow-like form of his nether extremities, was occa- sioned by four or five breaks, both arms had becm disjointed and permitted to set themselves, and finally, a blow-up of gunpowder had disarranged his features— if 1 may use tlie term — promiscuously. But all these personal defects did not appear to disturb old Tom an atom ; he was remarkably industrious himself and strange as it may appear, he was the means of inducing others to follow his example, often under a penalty of personal punishment. The reasons were obvious, we all p /i <^ /a '/a '^A. % .y ^a ** ^ c?^; w IMAGE EVALUATIOCJ TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I '" IIIIM i||M If IM 1 22 12.0 .8 i.25 illl 1.4 1.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation 37 V \ \ «^ w:^ 'w 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 V^ ^ Vx 186 RAMBLTNGS l.V CAJJFORNIA. W '\ !l 'V# owed him money nearly, for hardly one in a dozen could more than settle his weekly dues. Tom's usual course of proceeding was this— when an unlucky wretch fell much into debt, he was apt to be attacked with bashfulness, and a disinclination to show himself at the store ; and in such cases, the freckled faced fair one was despatched with the bill and orders to tlie victim, eitlier to settle up on the spot or to come and labor for his creditor. Non-compliance with this ultimatum was surely followed by summary ejection from the camp, while Tom coolly possessed himself of tent, tools, claim and all things appertaining thereto, without the smallest consultation of either Blackstone or Lynch. For some 'weeks' time had gone on with me in mono- tonous poverty, and gradually the dreaded ultimatum lowered blacker and blacker in the horizon. One evening about sundown, while plodding homeward tired and dis" consolate, carrying the proceeds of a day's labour, comprised in the space of a spoonful of sand, I was attracted by a crowd in the grand plaza of our town and the tones of a .speaker, who with eloquent gesticulation and bell-like lungs, appeared — in his own opinion at least— t(j be pound- ing upon some subject of overwhelming import, to his whole clay-covered audience, if not to the entire family of man. Now I had often heard of conventions and caucuses, and indignation meetings, and squatter riots, and all such little ebullitions of popular feeling, characteristic of liberty and this free country in particular; but as yet, I was only one of the benighted, though burning with laudable thirst for knowledge, so I also approached, and aided to enlarge the number of attentive listeners. Ife was an Eastern man, Connecticut was on his tongue en could course of 3II much ricss, and 1 in such with the ) on the inpliance ■ ejection inself of thereto, :stonc or n mono- tiniatuni evening and dis- labour, ittractod he tones bell-like 3 pound- l, to his aniily of lucuses, all such 'liberty was only audable lided to ! tunnuo RAMBLJNGS IN CALIFORNIA. ]87 and in every twinkle of his sharp g.ey eye; he was crinkled, attenuated and dyspeptic, and to judge from his exteriors, the world had gone hard with Jonathan. His coat and nether garments of a snuff color, were ancient and tender, his shoes were razee'd boots of an old pattern and the breezes whispered lovingly through various aper^ tures in his venerable castor, which looked like a fossil reminiscence of some pious pilgrim forefather. I thou^^ht at hrst, as I approached, that he was some devoted street preacher, and feared much for his apostolical success, but on a closer survey of his intense shabbiness I partly settled It in my mind, that he was exposing his wretched person and seedy attire that he might attract the charity of the weak. But all my surmises were at fault, he was an Auctioneer ! The agent and representative of a powerful company, that only required-as he expressed it-- the sinners of war," to be launched wich, that they might be- come Croesuses themselves, and the manufacturers of any desired number of Ilothschilds; provided the candidates for the company's tavor, only received his disinterested advice, and hand out ungrudgingly. He had, literally, a pocket full of rocks, that he ex tracted so delicately from their capacious receptacle, they nnght have been eggs, but we knew better for nich an edible had never yet made its appearance on the bar. They were all bonajide pieces of quartz rock, brought from the ground for samples, and labelled to distinguish the repre- sentative of each particular lead. The chairman-as he called hin.self-of - The Grand Ophir Quartz Minino- Company, ' then arranged these tastefully on the head of a flour barrel, and with the aid of a cracked eye glass, that had long since done service on the plains, in igniting 188 RAMBLINGS IN CALIFORNIA. '■ . IM ii i I pipes — he commenced a keen scrutiny on their respective merits, that always concluded with an unlimited panegyric on the untold wealth, contained in the rock bound bosom, from whence they had been taken. "And," said he, "only for these sinners, which we must iraper'tively procure, sich a sacrifice would be even beyond the philanthropy of the Grand Ophir Quartz Mining Company. Now, gentlemen, I will expose to your inspection, this here most lovely individual of the quartz family ; it is number nineteen, from the Franklin Purse lead ; and if ever there was r ginooine no mistake article, kalkilated tu replenish the purse, and tu rejoice the bosoms of our free people, it is here. You can't but observe, gentlemen, by the assistance of this magnifying glass, how deeply it is coated, encrusted and thoroughly impregnated,, with the precious stuff. Du look, and jidge for yourselves ; and how much du you bid, fur the sale is a parmtory one, by express bye-law." There being no response to his most earnest solicitations, even after three-fourths of the poverty-stricken crowd, had vainly examined the geological specimen, he offered another, which he said had been a peculiar pet to the company, and been dedicated on its first discovery to a famous California character. " It is called the Long Mary Lead, and long will the lead endure to the spirited purchaser — who will find in its deep recesses, a plentiful supply of that which we all came here for." This failing also to receive any bids, he tried others. He had them in profusion, named from all the great men in the country, from Washington to Walker, but still his toil was useless, and his lungs began to fail him. RAMBLINGS IX CALIFORNIA. 189 respective panegyric iud bosoni;. which we Id be even ir Quartz )se to jour the quartz :Iin Purse ke article^ 'he bosoms t observe, glass, how pregnated,, ourselves ; itory one, icitatious, 3u crowd, lie offered )et to the )very to a ; will the 11 find in ich we alt ;d others, ^reat men it still his , \ Just at this time, a voice in the rear of the crowd ex-- claimed-" Hallo ! old Hardbread !" And the nam'e of Hardbread was resounded from fifty different throats, for he had become w. II known as an absconder, in the former yeai, from the clutches of the relentless storekeeper. The extreme diffidence and restraint of the recoonized auc- tioneer, was summarily relieved, by the powerful grasp of the injured Thomas himself, who approached and seized him in his grasp of iron, the victini'.s coat partino. like a cobweb in the first rough salute. ^^\h!ha!" said he, with the cliuckle of a Quilp, '' How's your health Mist.r Hardbread? You've oau.bled off your pocket on the ledge, have you ? And after swindling me, you come back to suck in ; ,, customers, do you, with stones you have picked up on the road, eh ? I've a notion to hang them round y.mr neck, when I put you in the dam. V'e atomy ! ye abortion ! Where's n,y beau- tiful flr.ur, and my pork, my overalls, my picks, and my pans? Oh! If ye were worth your beans, wouldn't I strap a hundred pound boulder to your leg, and work you like a mule for a year ? But it wouldn't "pay, for there's nothing of ye, so I'll just chastise ye, and let ye go. A handsaw was produced at his command, and applied vigorously and relentlessly, with it flat side, on the stoop- ing person of the culprit, on the system so much in vogue among mariners, as a punishment to slovenly cooks. When the cobbing process was through with, Tom twisted him as though it was a kitten, on his shoulders, and waddled off to the river, where he plunged him, hissing hot as he was, with the advice, to make for the opposite shore direct on pain of another application of the Shefiield manufacture' "And,- concluded Tom, adding wanton insult to injury^ R % 190 R\MBLINGS IN CALIFORNIA. << ye noedii't ptivticularly hurry yerself in crossing the riffle^ for there isn't the water in the ocean that could drown ye." He was right this time, for the old proprietor of the pocket on the ledge crossed in safety, after which he breathed out a few vain threats, and disappeared down the ravine, for parts unknown. Next day I was relieved from all present inconvenience, and Six hundred and forty rod bar besides, by the fortunate arrival of Hong Kong emigrants, Avho purchased my right for a small sum, and thus enabled me to square ac ;ounts, and proceed in the search of more profitable diggings. TOBIN. ''■f Tobin was a fat lymphatic young man of twenty sum- mers, with a large head, very unruly hair, and gifted with an extraordinary appetite. He was a judge when I first made his acquaintance, and practised law in the city of San Francisco. As the manner in which he originally obtained this high sounding title, was the same as th;' by which numbers of others obtained it, and as it may periiaps prove useful to those who thirst for the bubble honor, at a moderate outlay of capital. I will recount it, for their benefit, as I received it froni the lips of the lucky aspirant himself. For all that this county contains the largest amount of wealth and population, of any in the State, the settle- ments in the townships, outside the limits of the city, are, in general, extremely limited, containing neither gold nor a fruitful soil. A few days prior to the election of the I'ifflcy rown ye.'^ be pocket jathed out aviue, for ill present .r besides, ants, Avho labled me I of more ■enty sum- ;ifted with len I first he city of originally as th; ' by ay per naps lioiior, at a , for their ky aspirant amount of the settle- (i city, are, (ither gold election of RAMBLINOS IN CALIFORNIA. 191 county officers, the candidate proceeds to one of these wild townships, where a few Crusoes vegetate precariously, on the sale of lirewood and shingles ; but being allowed by the Constitution, the privilege of electing a magistrate, the gentleman makes himself gracious, and by his per- suasive elo(|uence, combined with a few gallons of liquor, 80 wins upon the hearts and sympathies of the free and independent electors, that he is appointed unanimously to the vacant post. He then ungratefully deserts his shingle- weaving constituents, returns to his chamber in the city, and ever after is respectfully addressed as Judge So-and- so. Formerly indeed, they stretched their commission so much, as to try cases on their return from this species of wildcat election ; but the plan has been discontinued for some time, chiefly through the envy of the magistrates within the bounds of the corporation, so that at the present time, the only advantage accruing from the outlay of so much spirits, merely consists in a lasting title, par courtesy. Tobin, it appeared, eventually got disgusted with red tape, and when I next met him, he was, with myself, em- ploying his talents in surveying the California coast, in the service of government. This suiTey has occupied the attention of the United States, ever since the acquisition of the territory; and surveyors, under the direction of officers from the engineer corps, have been constantly placed at the most important points ; but what they have achieved, as an equivalent for their heavy demands on the public treasury, I have never yet been able to find out. Our governor was amply provided with all the requisite means and appliances. Provisions, wines, mathematical and scientific instruments enough to pry into the most hidden recesses of nature, tents, tools, teems, assistants, m ^0 si f 192 RAMBLINOS IN CALIFORNIA. and ready mouoy ; all of which comprised the cargo of a small government vessel, employed for the purpose of ministering to the necessities of our commander and his followers. The captain belonged to that time-honored class, known throughout the length and breadth of the Union, and ir- reverently denominated Old Fogeys, in contradistinction to the spryer party, called Young America, and however much they may be admired, by those under their imme- diate control, it must still be allowed that they are rather unprofitable nephews, to their illustrious uncle. He had achieved laurels in Mexico by some means, but how they pitched on him, for this present duty, it would be hard to say ; for although sufficiently slow in discharge of his duty, he failed much in the proverbial accompaniment of sureness. All opinions with regard to his age, amounted to mere conjecture, for his funny little black eyes, and turn up nose, were alone visible of his features ; all else was a mystery, a dreary wilderness of coarse black hair, indignantly defying all impertinent interrogation. He was short in stature, very ignorant and self opinionated, and without more than the elenieiits of mathematical kiiowledge, his headstrong conceit, and unscientific ma- noeuvcring, eftectually precluded the least glimmering of light, to shine through the impenetrable fog of his reports, even with the hopeless exertions of his assistants. ]Jut, in sooth, the time wore on pleasantly enough, for the cooks and California wages, were good; and in dry weather, we mostly waited for rain to clear the atmosphere; and when wet, we had to postpone our work until it dried. So that the time was generally filled up both ways in shooting, fishing, and an inordinate quantity of sleep. A >f I RAMBLINOS IN CALIFORNIA. 103 cargo of a lurposc of r and his 9S, known n, and ir- listlaction 1 however eir imme- ire rather He had how they )c hard to ge of his niment of amounted eyes, and :i ; all else lack hair, on. He inionated, hematical itific ma- niering of is reports, s. uiigh, for d in dry uosphere; I it dried. I ways in ?lecp. A peculiar characteristic of our fogey captain, was the tena- city with which he contended for his own views, oven after nature herself, had unmistakeably proved his hobby to be a glaring absurdity. We had an excellent whale boat for our use, in which we made various aciuatic excursions around the beautifully sheltered, but shallow bay, upon whose smiling banks, our la/y canvas village reposed; and many a comical accident occurred from our soldier officer's innocence, not only of nautical tactics, but of the simplest natural results, familiar to most people from childhood. For instance, one fine breezy morning, our boat close hauled, and without ballast, we were dashing along in magnificent style, our lee gunwale slightly dipping in^he water, receiving it at intervals in bucketfuls. and giving a bailer sufficient exercise to keep her free; the captain beginning to feel rather nervous, and doubtless imagining some nautical expedient requisite, in what he considered a serious emergency, yet, too self-satisfied in his own resources, to solicit advice, he proceeded to act in con- sonance with his peculiar ideas in relation to ..latter and motion. I, at this crisis, was snugly ensconced in the weather stern shoets, and in that dreamy forgetful mood, which the monotonous pipe of the sea breeze is so apt to engen- der ; when I was aroused, by a polite request from him, to remove my person to the lee side, in order, as he said, to adjust the specific gravity of the boat. One glance at his eyes informed me that Ye was serious, and another to leeward told me Avhat would be the inevitable result ; but a clear pebbly bottom four or five feet deep, on a summer morning was no way distasteful to me, particularly when fun was attached to it, so I promptly obeyed, with aa R: fill 1^ i! > 1 194 RA.MBLINOS IN CALIFOHNIA. heavy a sway as possible. Ah I expected, the bout tilled at once, and wo soon found ourselves nearly to the neck in the little billows. Our hero bellowed most lustily for help, as his short stature <i^uve the briny element rather un- pleasant access to his stomach. The assistance was given, and we safely landed him, after an hour's thorouj^h soak- ing ; yet, strange enough, on the very next day, he gave a still more ridiculous order; for having discovered, when about a league from land, some water remaining in the bottom of the boat, he solemnly commanded one of the rowers to withdraw the bottom plug, for the purpose of draining her I The man's refusal to comply, nearly caused a mutiny, but we were all obliged to side with him, for this would most probably liave been attended with more disastrous consequences, than the former proceeding. What a higglety pigglety mess of triaiKjulation, did wc make upou that coast? Bluffs substituted for sand spits, and pretty little islands witli trees on them, placed in suitable positions, in order to fill up the landscape agreea- bly. But then the cliaiate is not subject to tempests, and should a vessel get ashore — as she surely must, if she de- pend upon our charts— she may, with some expense, be extricated, without having her brains knocked out, but a little premium on insurance, would undoubtedly be a safe investment to traders in these waters. Tobiii and I shortly united ourselves to another^ party further up the coast, where wc employed ourselves in the k'zy occupation of watching the tides rise and fall, by a graded staff. Many an hour wc passed in the little build- in", like a sentry box, which was erected on two strong sticks of timber, that projected from the steep rock, eter- nally beat by the long rollers of the ocean. The staff UA.Vni.INOS JN CALIFORNIA. 195 bout tilled le neck in V for help, •ather un- *va.s given, )ugh soak- ', he gave red, when ng in the ne of the )urpose of rly caused I hi 111, for with more ding. ■jn^ did we <and spits, placed io pe agreea- pests, and if she de- ;pense, be out, but a ' be a safe :her party ^es in the fall, by a ittle build- ;wo strong rock, eter- The staff was attached to a float, and enclosed in a long box, like a spout, with a small hole in the bottom, that admitted the tide as it rose, without being aftected by the rush of the sea; and our duty was to note in a small book, hourly, the height of the water as delineated on the stall". Tobin was extremely awkward and incorrect in his observations; and, only that no substitute could be procured within two hundred miles, the commanding ofHcer would undoubtedly have dispensed with his services at short notice. He would take to his retreat a Spanish grammar, and when deep in the mysteries of the verbs, would altogether for- get his present duty, and allow the period for noting the figures to pass, thus bringing confusion on the whole table. But it was found better to allow him his book, for when deprived of it, he comfortably betook himself to slumber, during the whole six hours of his watch. A few days previous to our departure for another dis- trict, we had all our tents removed to a point on the beach, about two miles from the staff, where it was acces- sible by the boats of the steamer, that made transient calls, at rare intervals ; and the watching proce.s.j was a particularly dreary affair, particularly at night time, for there was no habitation nearer than ten miles off, except- ing our one little camp upon the beach. I arrived one morning about six o'clock, from the camp, for the purpose of relieving my co-worker, who had kept the watch from the previous midnight, and who generally at this time was quite ready for his breakfast ; for eating was the only occupation he preferred to studying Castilian. A small platform of plank, had been placed among the rocks in front of the sentry box, for the purpose of a promenade, when our cramped limbs required relief, and upon placing 100 UAMItlJNOS IN CALIFORNIA. my foot upon it this morniriir, I was horrified to nr tico it «mcaro(l from oiid to end, with ^'oiits of hlood and hraiu.s, the door closed, and the stillness of (h'ath on everything, breathless with the fear of some dreadful eatastroplie, 1 cautiously pushed tlu; door ajar, and perceived To))in squatted in the corner, his face, arms, and chest, crusted over with blood, and perfectly naked from the waist up- ward. To my first hurried (|uesti()ris lu; mcndy replied, by pointini;- with his flnj^or to the ttpposite corner, where, stark and still' lay the massive proportions of a California lion, with its head completely beaten to a jelly, and n(>arly filliu->- up the half of the house. Tobiu was unable to move, and hardly able to speak ; I was therefore obliged to return to camp fur assistance, and we soon had him home, his W(mnds examined — which were all superficial — and the story of his prowess related, as soon as ho was capable of speaking v/ith fluency. About an hour previous to my arrival, and whih; day had just dawned, he was sitting on the bench reading by a lamplight, when he thought he heard a 8tep upon the platform. Surprised at such an early visit, he incautiously opened the door, and found himself close, and face to face with the lion. Now, Tobin, although as arrant a coward as ever breathed, was remarkably gifted with clum.sy strength ; and like many others of his calibre, would fight !ike H hero, when retreat was impossible, as in the present instance. The savage beast bounded on him as soon as it perceived him, and he had just sufficient time to drop his grammar, and grapple it by the throat in the first embrace. For a quarter of an hour the deadly fight continued, and for all the agile body of the wild animal, threw him round in every pos.sible direction, breaking the staff to pieces, a 1 tif tico it III (I l>raiii,s, vorything. •stroplio, 1 'cd Tobin Mt, cruHtcd wuiHt up- \y replied, or, whoro, Ciilif'ortiia ind ri(!arly unable to "c obliged hiid him )erficiul — !iK he waH vhil(! day jading by upon the cautiously uo to face a coward 1 cluniHy )uld fight e prcHcnt ;oon a,s it drop his embrace, ued, and im round piecos, a KAMHMNUS IN CAMKOHNIA. 107 barometer, and variou.s other meteorological inntrumentu, bcHidoH dragging him more than once to the very brow of tho cliff, and ripping his flesh with itH long nharj) claws; ho still contrived to maintain his desperate grip(! upon its windpipe, and fairly managi'd to strangle it, eventually, with no other arms than tlus extn'injdy awkward mms, that nature had gifted him with. N«.t contented with his vict((ry, when it lay a corpse at his feet, and wishing, probably, to make assurance doubly sure, he proceeded to uniko it (/xn/i r, by pounding th(> head to a mummy with a larg<> ro(;k ; for which ne(!(|le,%s labor Ik; refH'ivcd some <.'ensur((, to s(':is(MI the great praise his proW(^s,s had calhid forth ; for the nnitilation (ilfcetually pr(!vent(;d tlu! stuffing of the skin, and its exportation to the Smithsonian Insti- tute at Washington. A few months after this badle he was caslii(!r(M| (or incompetentM;. The eommandid" olliccr in <'ivii!<f lijn, advice for his future guidance, told him ho could not think of ntainiiig hiin in n s(!rvic(" totiijjy uiisniird to his talents. " •''""'," >-iid he, " I am a faitlifu! believer in bumps, ;in(l the doctrine that ' lutthing is made in vain,' and many a mglit have I lost my golden sleep, in vain .'pecu- lations as to the caii.sc of your creation ; but,, /'Jinr/.a .' I have got it, at last, (lo my l>oy, with iuy blessing, exer- eise your gifts in that calling, l\,y which nature has -;mphatically marked you out. Vou are a lion-slayer 1 go on, and prosper in your carccir— and you will, doubtlcHh, yet attain an honorable corner in tin; nielu! of fame." 'i'obm bade us a melancholy adieu, carrying his ward- robe uiuler his arm, which consisted of his grammar and a tooth brush, rolled carefully up in a seedy shooting jacket. Si . I 108 RAMBLINGS IN CALIFORNIA. Fill \\' %y .V# and notwithstanding the confidence with whirh the cap- tain had expressed himself touching his sure success as a hunter, I had much fear that he would yet encounter dis- tress ; for like the Italian beggar, laziness was a chronic disease with him, and his clumsy unbusiness-like exterior, was extremely detrimental to his probable success, in any mercantile or literary employment. Just one year from this, I again encountered my old friend, in the cabin of a coasting steamer^ and if ever a man might be said to have shed the old hair, in the com- pletest style, tltat man was Tobin 1 lie was attired in faultless black, his thick fingers clogged with precious rings, and his front adorned with gold chains and brooches innumerable. Hanging affectionately upon his arm, was the loveliest little pet of a Spanish woman imaginable, to whom with a proud and well satisfied air, he introduced mo. She was his v/ife, aye, actually Mrs. Tobin, was that sweet little Signora. In a country like this, where the coarsest of Eve's daughters, may make her choice among tlie gveatest in the land, ai)d superciliously reject the very flower of the lords of the creation, this hump- backed, useless creature, had won one of thu fairest and richest liciresses, among the landed proprietors of the State. He had (juietly marked out the beautifid Isabella long before, during a temporary halt at a rich ranchero's cam, in one of our surveying excursions, and mentally resolved to ac((uire her musical language, that he might woo and win her, and it was for this object alone that he had con- sumed so much midnight oil in the lonely tide-house. "But," concluded he, "my knowledge of the language would have been insufficient of itself, to bring matters to K the cap- iiccess as a ounter dis- ! a chronic cc exterior, ess, in any ed my old I if ever a II the com- attircd in h precious id brooches s arm, was i^itiablc, to introduced robin, was his, wliere her choice lusly reject :his hump- fairest and )rs of the il)elUi loni; IlAMiJLTNOS IN CALIFORNIA. 109 ero s ca)ia ly resolved it woo and e had con- tido-housc. [1 language matters to a successful issue, had I not gently intimated by reputa- ble witnesses, that 1 was a judge ; for, one of the greatest weaknesses of this people is their respect for titles ; and besides the worthy pafbr of the young lady, no doubt calculated on my connection with his family, i!s a sure preventative to the encroachments of ' El squatteros dcs los An-ericanos,' which I guess will be the case. It only now remained to convert me to the true faith, and this was happily accomplished in a twelve hour's sitting, with a very good-natured, and accommodating priest. 8o, that, I am now the sole proprietor of an excellent wife, nine square leagues of a fat soil, and some thousand he:uls of cattle and horses, branded with a ca -tal T." THE VOVAGE. Six or seven years ago, a trip to California, was a very different affair in expense, consumption of time, and risk of life and limb, to what the performance of the same feat is at the present time. Of the three great routes, viz : — the overland, directly across the continent, the long ocean voyage around Cape Horn, and the way by the isthmus of Darien or Panama; the latter, although ori'Jiially the most dangerous of the three, has gradually gained ground in the coniidence of the public, and is just now immeasur- ably in advance of any, for speed, comfort, econcmiy, and safety. The way across the plains at first, and even now, presents itself in the brightest colors, to the settlers along the banks of the Mississippi, and the vast regions watered ic river. They possessed !:i by the tributaries of that gigant 'IJ 200 llAMBLINGS IN CALIFORNIA. ^' I -i J ! - I;' «\| the advantage oi' more tlian one-third of the continent in the first instance over the eastern eniiarant, and besides u land journey would bo hy no moans so distasteful to people ac(iuaintod with no other moans of transport, and possessing' by tradition a chronic horror of salt water. The western, and more especially, the south-western, farmer, collected toi;ether his flocks and his herds, his wag- gons, his wife, liis little ones, and even his slaves, if he possessed any, and calmly commenced a journey princi- pally throut;'li a barren wilderness, peopled by hostile tribes of savages, warlike and cruel. Month after month, would he pursue his way, often until six or eight had e:::pircd ; his weary oattle worn to skin and bone, and perhaps the whole of his family fallen victims to tlie relentless hate of the aborigines, or the deadlier effects of fatigue and dis- ease. Numbers of such instances have occurred annually, yet still it is preferred by many tn the visionary terrors of a sea voyage ; but it is not much patronized now, except by the proprietors of cattle and horses, who often make the trade lucrative, and many indeed follow it, as a regu- lar employment, making annual trips, to purchase stock in the cheap markets of Missouri, Arkansas, and Texas, and finally dispose of them in the higher marts of California and Oregon. This is the only course upon which no improvement has been made ; fc. excepting at a few scattering posts, where bad provisions are sold almost for their Avoight in gold, the road is a natural one, and the main portion of the country still in the possession of the wild Camanchcs, Pawnees, and Sioux, Yet for all it has received so little improvement by the great trade between the iVtlantic and the Pacific, it is destined, eventually, — far above the i IlAMHLlXtiS TN CALIFORNIA. 201 )ntiucnt in I besides u tasteful to isp(»rt, and water, h-western, s, his wag- aves, if he cy princi- stile tribes itli, would I e::;pired ; erhaps the ess hate of }■ and dis- l annually. terrors of DW, except ften make as a regu- «e stock in Fexas, and. California 'cment has ists, w^here t in gold, ion of the [imanchcs, )d so little lantic and ibove the others — to receive tlie most; both from its directness, and its forming a portion of the common territory. Tt i.s highly probable that even during the late democratic ad- ministration — antagonistic as the platform usually is to internal improvement — assistance would have been granted from the federal government, for the construction of a railroad through this region, had not local jealousies be- tween the different rival states, in expectation of benefits to be derived therefrom, effectually prevented such a desirable consummation. Tt can hardly be expected though, that such a proverbially energetic people as the Americans, will long permit party politics, and the thun- derings of office-seeking demagogues, to divert the rich traffic — still yearly on the increase — from their own native, through a foreign soil, and three times the distance, in- cluding a transfer of passengers and merchandise, from ship to ship. The great labor and expen.se of stowing and discharging a cargo twice over, has, despite the desirable acquisition of the Panama railroad, made the ocean way around the southern extremity of the American continent, the fa- vorite one still, to the shippers of heavy merchandise; and the great improvement.':' in naval architecture, as exemplified in the graceful and light proportions of the new style of clipper .ships, aid niaterially in continuing it as the most practical means of transport. And notwith- standing that the distance is in the close neighborhood of 15,000 miles, from New York to San Francisco, the passage has been made in a less period than ninety days, little more than one third of the average time consumed in the transit by way of the desert and the territory of Utah. Six or seven years ago a large portion of the Cali- 8 t.l in 11 lis ,9' 202 KAMBLINCiS IN CALIFORNIA. # •!.# fornia emigrants were conveyed in clippers, and they principally arrived in the country safe, and in good liealth, but the quicker passage by the Isthmus, though more ex- posed to danger and sickness, has gradually monopolized the entire passenger trade. At the time I formed the determination of adding myself to the countless and motley crowd of gold-seekera who were pouring in, not only from civilized and enlight- ened, but also from the barbarous nations of the earth, the Chagres river was the main thoroughfare to the Pacific, and on my arrival in New York, I found that the berths in the expected steamors were monopolized for at least two mouths to come. Now, as backing out of a project ou the first rebuff, is not precisely my nature, I hunted diligently around the wharves for some days, with the hope of finding among the forest of masts some means of conveyance to the promised land, and at length suc- ceeded in making an arrangement with the master of a fine little Yankee bark, who was bound on a voyage to the port of Chagres, to convey our company — faur in all — to the port jf his destination. We were soon comfortably domiciled in the cabin of the vessel, and after a pleasant run of a month, through the sunny Carribbean, and ob- taining a splendid view of the black empire of Saint Domingo, and the much coveted " gem of the Antilles," we hove in sight of the bamboo houses of Chagres. A New York steamer had just arrived with passengers, and the rush for the river boats wa3 tremendous ; but we, along with some twenty others fortunately succeeded in securing a boat to convey us as far as the river was navi- gable, by paying a very exorbitant price. The first night we encamped upon the beach, some fifteen miles up, where , and they ^ood liealth, :^li more ex- nonopolizod I of addin<^ c^old-scekera uid cnliglit- f the earth, fare to the ind that the Dpolized for king out of ly nature, I E3 days, with some means length suc- ! master of a voyage to 'our in all — comfortably r a pleasant !an, and ob- re of 8uint c Antilles," grcs. 1 passengers, us ; but wc, uccecded in er was uavi- le first night 23 up, where RAMHLINOS IN CALIFORNIA. 203 wc spent a rather sleepless night annoyed by the fear of snakes and centipedes, and the heavy splashing of the crocodiles in the river, hard by. The next day we accom- plished another twenty miles, walking the entire way through thick brambles, for so shallow was the river, that our luggage alone was sufiicicnt cargo for the boat; and at the conclusion of the third day, arrived at the terminus (jf our river travel. The next day we made our cniree into Panama, and although New York ajid Chagres were sufficiently crowded with anxious en(juirers for a par.-age, the excitement here was ten times more intense. Thou- sands like ourselves failing in their object of obtaining through tickets originally, had ventured thus far in the vain hope that a vacancy would occur somewhere, and that, perhaps, fortune might be more propitious to them than to their neighbors, but instead of any such means of progress presenting itself, thousands even of those who actually covenanted for the through trip, were obliged by scarcity of room, to remain for more than two months, giving precedence to the early purchasers. More than ten thousand strangers it was supposed were congre- gated at this period, within the walls of this small and unwholesome city, crowds of them too, were sick and utterly penniless, foolishly depending on the chances of workintjf their passauics, when hundreds of men familiar to the sea from childhood were begging in the stret'ts. »Some wild and adventurous sailors after laying in a small stock of necessaries, proceeded on this long voyage through the pathless ocean in open whale boats, and some of them actually reached California by this fragile means of con- veyance, but the greater number of those who attempted it, either perished or were forced on the Mexican coast, 204 RA.MIJLINd.S IN' CALIFORNIA. tliuugli the latter jilternative would be iiiuch preferable to any, than a lengthened sojourn in this den of horrors, with food only obtainable at famine prices, and pestilential as the black hole at Calcutta. ,just at this time an extremely bold trick was executed by a piratical craft, and the only sailing vessel in the harbor. She was advertised to take passengers to San Francisco, and soon had engaged more than three hundred at a high rate. ]3ut the night previous to her expected departure, the anchor was weighed and next morning the dim tracery of her proportions was just visible in the distant horizon as she took her course seaward without a solitary pre-p ;id passenger on board. At last a schooner arrived from "Valparaiso, bearing the high soun- ding title of a Baltimore clipper. She was called " The Imhdia Ilcrmosa;' anglicc. Beautiful Isabella, but except in the name itself, it must have been a sharper eye than mine to perceive the least particle of beauty about the graceless little hulk. At what period the lovely Isabel left the stocks might have been a query worthy the atten- tion of an antiquary, for the form of her hull had the peculiarity of no precise age, nor did her present rig cor- respond to any recognized system of the present. She was nearly tlat-bottomed, registering about ninety tons and a small poop at one extremity, was the best guide by which to discriminate the stem from the stern. She was owned, manned and commanded by Italians, and a more awkward boat, managed by a clumsier crew, I trust never attempted to make an ocean passage. If she had been a New Zealander's war canoe, however, she could have no difficulty therein filling up with twice the passengers to which she was legally authorized, and in just three days from the time of her arrival she was ready for sea, with a com- I ferablo to rors, with ilcntial as 3xtrenicly the only d to take more than rcvious to and next ist visible ! seaward At last a igh soun- 3d " The lit except eye than bout the ly Isabel he atten- had the : rig cor- nt. She tons and >uide by She was l1 a more ist never i been a i!d have 3ngers to lays from h a com- RAMBLINGS IN CALIFORNIA. 205 plemcntin precisely that ratio, viz : 130 men and 7 women. Great delay and confusion were experienced in convey- ing us on board the vessel which lay about two miles away in the offing, for the small boats with native rowers were the only means, and the heavy breakers from the bay made it a hazardous undertakincr. We had made an arrangement with one boatman, but on our arrival at the beach we found ourselves superseded by a party bound for the steamer, which was also with ourselves just on the point of sailing. Chafing with the disappointment our only resource was patiently to await her return, but alas ! we had to wait in vain. A spit of sand extending beneath the water from a point had to be crossed with the object of shortening the distance, and as the water was extremely shallow, three heavy swells in succession broke over it at intervals with extreme violence. Whether by neglect or wrong calculation the boat passed the point precisely at the most dangerous time. She lifted her stern gallantly to the two first breakers, but the third, and by far the heaviest one, made a complete pall for the boat and her ill-fated passengers, every one of whom were swept into eternity. What made the scene appear with additional horror — at least in my eyes — was the cold-blooded indif- ference shown by the surrounding crowds to the catastro- phe, for although two boats were within at least one hundred yards of the spot where the disaster occurred, scarcely a look was cast in the direction of the drowning men, and not the smallest effort at assistance, attempted by any one. The waves rolled on relentlessly as before, the other rowers continued at their occupations, and a few scattered hats that floated on the disturbed water were the last mementos of that lifc-freidited boat. S 2 206 RAMBLINGS IN CALIFORNIA. f I She was ({uito a Republican .ship, was the JuaU/ Her- mosa, every one did nearly as he pleased on board, and privilege was at a discount, but the worst feature in this system was^ that one "gentleman's pleasure did not in all instances correspond with his neighbor's precisely, and as a consequence, several little lights occurred each day, cither with fire arms or nature's arms. And unfortunately for the cessation of hostilities, the principal weapons on board were the Allan revolver, or pepper box; this instrument was then comparatively a new invention, and few people were aware of the dreadful power it possessed of continuing a row for a month at a time, for although it would some- times go ofi, sounding rcvolverish enough, I never yet knew of an accident to occur from its use, even when the shot was flying about like peas. It was most likely this peculiar feature in the weapon that made our adventurers so partial to sharp practice, no doubt wishing to habituate themselves to stand fire, preparatory to the more serious business with Colt's pistol, on their arrival in the El Do- rado ] few were unprovided with two or three of these articles, with a bowie knife in reserve, but the latter was rarely applied to, except when the engagement became really serious. Our 130 men were divided into ten e((ual portions, each forming precisely a baker's dozen, the odd man holding the office of captain of tlic mess, and was elected daily. Each individual was provided with a plate and a half pint cup, made of tin, together with an iron spoon ; but as many lost these useful utensils, through carelessness, and had no delicacy in helping themselves from their neigh- bors, whenever opportunity occurred for the perpetration of the theft, great numbers had very shortly to perform I ibel Hcr- 3ard. and e in this lot in all y, and as ay, cither ily for the on board istrunicnt w people >utinuiug lid some- icver yet kvhcn the ikcly this venturers habituate c serious e El Do- of these atter was / became portions, 1 holdint^ xl daily, half pint ; but as less, and r ncigh- petration perform UAMBMNGS IN CALIFORNIA. 207 the nourishing,' process by the natural use of teeth and claws. The eatables were of the simplest kind, and I must do the chief manager the justice to say, that although he was a native of Paris, and mvred with all the volubility of a Frenchman, the cookery was by no moans complicated, for, to the best of my knowledge, he never iiiflieted a ragout or a kickshaw upon us, during the entire passage. Our staple food consisted of yams and jerked beef, pro- cured at Panama. The yam is a root, somewhat resembling a coarse grained potato, and is familiar to most persons — at least by repute— but the ''jerky," as we contemptuously termed it at first, may rcciuire some little explanation. The Spanish cattle are remarkably lank, raw}>oncd crea- tures, wild as deer. They are invariably captured for the butcher, by la^mimj^ and the calling of a vaquero^ as the cowhuntcr is termed, re((uires great skill and experience both in horsemanship and the use of ^the rictta or rope. He proceeds upon a horse trained for the purpose, and after selecting his animal from the herd, he commences to run it down. After being exhausted by the chase, the ereature at length stands at bay, and the vaquero cautiously approaching, throws a noose with great precision over its ample horns, often at a distance of twenty yards. The end of the rietta is attached to the high horn of the saddle, and the fatigued beast is submissively led to the shambles, where it is soon butchered in the coarsest fashion, blood rarely flowing to any extent, from the extreme heat of its system engendered by its arduous hunt. The flesh is cut from the bones, in tliin narrow strips ; it is then thrown over a pale to dry in the sun, and finally packed away in its own hide with some salt sprinkled among it, the whole carcase thus forming a moderate load t ^SBH^SMS^E^^aBti 208 RAMBLINQS TN CALIFORNIA. r for one man. In all the Spanish American towns, this is the only description of cured meat manufactured, and a yard stick is used in the retailers' shops, for precisely the same purpose as we use scales and weights. Now, I have no prejudice against the Spaniards. In fact, I rather admire theni; for their politeness, their hos- pitality, and their enjoyment of the luxury of ease, but candor compels me to admit, that the institution of jerked beef adds little to their favor in my eyes, for the recollec- tion of its mastication gives me the toothache to the present hour. It is not at all too palatable when taken fresh from the pole, but sweltering in its leather case, beneath a tropical sun, for months, sadly deteriorates from the original flavor, even without the usual accompaniment of worms. However, as we had nothing else particularly to occupy our attention, we had plenty of time to chew, and the exercise was perhaps rather salutary than otherwise, taking up such an important portion of the day ; for the interme- diate time was chiefly spent in quarreling with each other in word!3, or the eternal exercise of the patent pistol. Water and provisions had been laid in, on the estimate that the passage would be performed in six weeks, but at the end of a month we found ourselves just four hundred miles on our course^ which left the remaining twenty-eight hundred miles to be performed in two weeks. It had been almost a dead calm for the whole period, and and we knew not how long it might continue, yet at a council called by the master, for the purpose of learning our wish, it was agreed by tlie majority, that we should persevere in the attempt to reach California without putting back, and lengthen our time by reducing our rations one half. Then was the time to try men's stomachs 1 The black putrid RAMULINCS IN CALIFOHMA 209 s, this is !d, aiul a isely the rds. In heir hos- sase, but 3f jerked reeollec- present esh from 3neath a ; original ' worms. ) occupy and the e, taking intcrme- ch other tol. estimate i, but at hundred ity-eight had been we knew jailed by 3, it was in the ,ck, and '. Then c putrid water which had previously l)een despised, was now sought alter with avidity, and became sweet and palatable, while even the formerly despised >/•%, rose vastly in public esti- mation, and its unsightly tripelike appearance gazed on with admiration and respect. But thescarcity of water was the greatest discomfort; even whiskey was at a discount with the topers, when unaccompanied with the simpler element and numy a quart of Otard's best brandy was reluctantly spilled overboard, accompanied by many a sigh at the un- congenial dilution, for the purpose of securing the bottle to hold the daily pint ration of water. The bottle was suspended around the neck of each, by a cord, and remained there night and day, for should it be left a moment in any other position, unwatched by the proprietor, the contents would be unscrupulously swallowed by the first thirsty soul who got his eye upon the treasure. Our tempers, none of the sweetest previous to the scarcity, became if possible more crabbed than ever, and a spirit of contradiction and combativeness appeared to be nourished in every breast. The hold was so very shallow and close, that no one attempted to rest below, and in consequence, the entire deck fore and aft, was covered with sleepers each night, and so predominant is habit in the nature of man, under any circumstances, that each one was to the full as persistent in retaining his usual position on the dirty deck, as ho would formerly have been with regard to his chair at the family table. The right of first discovery was chiefly allowed, although many a bloody nose was the effect of a struggle for a coil of rope, or the greasy bilge of a pork barrel ; for from the contumaciousness of some, who persisted in lying in what form thoy pleased, many were obliged to take their nightly slumbers in a sitting posture, 210 R.VMMLINC.S l\ ("ALlI-'OriNIA. ■ thcro not bcinf^ room for all to recline, unless >villin^c,' to do tlio agreeable, by trying it spoon fashion. Oh, they were a sweet set of savages, the Ilennosaitea ! And T have often thought since, that the rotten old boat was only saved from the winds and waves, on account of the number on board, who were certainly born to be hanged. For more than a week after the allowance system had been established, we had fair fresh breezes from the south, and made good progress during that time, fcjr even a hay stack would sail before the wind, and our vcs.«-el was fully a match for that. But as we ncared the gulf of California, the raw north-west breeze so peculiar to that latitude, forced us to ^ail on a wind for another week, beating back- wards and forwards, without gaining an inch, until finally the dissatisfaction became so great, it was determined to bear up and make a fair wind for the harbor of xVeapulco in Mexico, twelve hundred miles north-west from Panama, at which place we arrived in fifty-two days from the time of our departure. Aeapulco is a beautiful, well sheltered liti^e harbor, easy of entrance, and in an excellent position for a flourishing trade, but the indolent inhabitants make but little use of the advantages they possess. Its intermediate position on the California route, together with its convenience to a rich iidaud country for supplies, have made it a great coal n-.- pot for all the steamers on the coast, that call reg,:\u'j- both ways. When we arrived in port, wc found three more vessels, precisely in a similar position to our own, filled with passengers, half starved, and nearly destitute. To our amazement and concern, we were here given to understand by these unfortunates, that the vessels were to proceed no further, the captains declaring, they had no RAMHLIXaS IN rAMFORNlA. 211 illinc; to )h, they d I have ras only number [cm had le south, n a hay ivas fully ilifornia, latitude, in"- back- il finally mined to tVcapulco Panama, the time bor, easy )urishing :le use of isition on ! to a rieh coal d';- rejTMlir'r nd three 3ur own, JcE^titute. given to sels were y had no fundfj to lay in frc^h .supplies fur the remainder of the pas- sago, and that the passengers mu^t shift fur themselves as they best could. Our American friends laughed long and loudly, at the idea of the Ilermosu's captain attempting such a trick under the very nose, as they said, of the stars and stripes, as they floated broadly from the United States consul's window. But the impartial Itah'an captain treated the free Americans as though they were no better clay than Britishers or Dutchmen, for the first night he spirited himself off, with all his valuables, and next morning we received a note, implying his intention, with the other cap- tains, of repudiating all indebtedness; granting his permis- sion, if we pleased, to sit out the last of the jerked beef, but accompanied by the significant hint, that if we at- tempted the capture of the vessel, or to injure her in any shape during our stay on board, we would be fired at by the guns of the fort, which commanded our position beau- tifully. The indignant citizens of the great republic posted at once to their Consul with the story of their wrongs, and when they were at last brouglit face to face with that official, after he had dodged them successfully until late in the afternoon, they received a flat refusal of any assistance from him, accuiiipanied with an insulting command to leave his presence. And this I have found to be the general character of these gentlemen in all unimportant ports, for their salary from government being quite insuf- ficient for their support, men of talent and respectability rarely accept of the office, and those who do, are only approachable by a bribe, which is their real wages. There was a poor young lad on board of the vessel a native of Indiana, lying very sick with the Chagres I 212 RAMliLIN(;s IN CALIFORXIA. \ I §>' If is "k* fever, which he liad contracted on tlic rstlinius, and a friend of miie who took a great interest in his case, endeavoured to persuade some of tlie Americans to inter- cede witli tlieir Consul for his removal to the hospital, for he was at the time dying by inches from unwholesome food and impure air, but they were much too irritated at their rebuff to attempt facing his highness once more. He then proposed to me that we should make the attempt of softening the heart of the United States representative, for the sake of the dying youth, to which I con- sented, and we proceeded at once to the great man's door. A smart negro wench responded to our summons, who left us to apprize her lord, of our request to see him, saying — "Law Massa, ef here aint two more starved Yankees a-wantingsummat." The inside door was then opened with a bang, and the fiery Consul strode into the hall to meet us, looking red as a steamboat light, from the combined effects of a(/ua dentr and indignation. " Hallo" said he, " more on you ? Didn't I tell the others to show their ugly faces no more, or I'd put them on board a man- of-war, as sure as there's niggers in Baton Rouge '^ Why don't you speak?" continued he in a voice like thunder, *' What do you want? Air you citizens?" The fervent "No tha!ik (»od," in reply, appeared to mollify our fierce questioner so much, that he heard our simple request patiently without interruption, and then replied, much cahucr — " Now ain't you a pretty considerable pair of green gawneys, I mought have known you were none of our folks. Du you know what you are, sure ? I'll tell you and no offence," then fixing his hand up to resemble an ear trumpet he applied it to his mouth, saying in a loud confidential whisper, " Yer f-fools ! AVhat on airth is it RAMBLINGS IN CALIFORNIA. 213 US, and a 1 his case, lis to intev- ospital, for iwliolesome irritated at more. He attempt of eseutativc, ich I con- reat man's • summons, io see him, re starved was then c into the t, from the " Hallo" *s to show ard a man- -e y Why e thunder, he fervent our fierce le request ied, much le pair of e none of .'11 tell you semble an ■ in a loud lirth is it your business if all our folks dies '( Uncle Sam is able to get them a coffin T guess, without applyin' to onnateralized forniers. Ciood day," and saying which, he presented a wooden wall between us, by slamnnng the door ii. our faces, just as my companion was doubling his fist up in a very significant manner. An iron hook on each side of the Consul's door inspired my partner with a bright idea, and our resolution was formed upon the instant. We proceeded back to our dirty craft and after informing the invalid of our intention we conveyed him ashoi'c, hammock and all, as gently as possible to the house whose door had been shut in our faces. We then suspended each end of it to the iron hooks leaving the body to hang directly across the door, at a height of three feet. The poor boy was visibly improved by the change of quarters, for the air was pure and refreshing to his emaciated frame, and the flaunting flag of his native laud, as it waved proudly over him, served one very useful purpose at least, by sheltering his person from the fierce rays of the sun. A crowd soon collected in the street opposite to the mansion, all gazing in wonder at the novel spectacle, and his Excellency, as he watched from the window, opened the door to find the cause of so many enquiring looks. One glance at the obstruction informed him of the cause, and our presence in the front ranks confirmed it. In speechless rage at the disgrace we put him to, he shook his clenched claws savagely, and fiercely shut out the horrible vision. A few minutes after, however, the wench was seen dodging beneath the hammock and posting rapidly towards the hospital, from whence she was soon followed by two stout men bearing a litter, who shortly after conveyed the invalid to comfortable quarters. x ■I' if \ WH i! 211 HAMRLIN«iS IN ( AMFORNIA. We then luiido our application to tlie IJriti.sh (\)nsul, who receivcMl us kindly, and advised us to retain our hold on the vessel for the present, promising to use his best endeavours to nial:e the Captain forward us to the desired port. The Captain had already sent us a supply of such provisions as the market alh rded, enough for a few days, and living partly on board and partly ashore, wcs contrived to pass a week or two in anxious expectation. The time though passed pleasantly enougli, for the novelty of every- thinir surrounding us possessed deep interest to those having a particle of observation or curiosity. The sombre piercing eyed natives, their sultry brows shaded by their broad grass hats, every niovemcnt rife with natural grace, even to the set of the tattered blanket on their slioulders — the sylphlike forms of the females poising great baskets of fruit on their heads, tripping to the nuirket, laughing and talking to each other in their own musical tongue — the broad fringe of cocoa nut and orange trees in perpetual verdure skirting the bases of the bleak rocky hills, that surround the haven — the never-exhausted cock and bull tights, and the ever- changing interest called fortli in the features of the looker on — the waters of the bay sparking in the sun.shine clear as crystal, filled witli strange and uncouth formed fislies — and tiny children of six years old, floating in luxurious ease upon its surface close to the ves.sels, watching the descent of a picayune from some kind hand, and ready to seize it o'er its descent to the flashing coral beneath. But the craving desire of reaching the land of gold, soon overwhelmed every other in my eyes, and tired of tiring out our Italian commander, I again took passage in an upward bound steamer, with a complement of 1500. The crowd was equally oppressive with the smaller vessel I our hold e Ins best lie desired y of such few days, contrived The time \f of cvery- osc having 'c piercing >road grass ven to the ?. sylphlikc it on their talking to oad fringe re skirting the haven 1 the ever- tlie looker ne clear as slies — and irious ease he descent to seize it d of gold, d tired of passage in t of 1500. lUer vessel UAMBLIN(;8 IN' nALIFORNlA. 215 I had just left, the few berths were of course all occupied, and as before I had to take my rest on the open deck. It of course oifered great attractions to an astronomer, to study the wonders of the starry Heavens, in the deep blue sky of the racific, or even to the lover who wished to make sonnets to his mistress' eye-brows; but I blush to own, a crib of straw in the dark hold hud much more attraction for me, and had I been able to procure it, I will venture to say that my projecting bones would have been no way injured by the exchange. The time consumed on board of this boat was only a week, but to me it seemed an age of horrors, Panama fever and cholera were raging on board, and every hour found a victim. The obsequies were of the simplest nature — the valuables of the deceased and the name were deposited with the Captain, and the body committed to the deep, live minutes after dissolution, and the shoals of sharks that followed in our wake told significantly their unerring fate; more than once I was aroused in the night by the grumbling sailors as they dragged corpses over my recumbent person, on their road to the gangway, and many a man on rousing himself found his bedfellow of the proceeding night to be a stiffened corpse. JJut Cape St. Jiucas and the long low sandhills of the lower peninsula are passed, the lung looked for Farallone Islands, and the deep fissure of the golden gate present them- selves to our hanging eyes, the cannon belches forth its flame as we round Clark's Point, and the (lueen city of the Western world shines brightly on the slopes of Ycrbu Buena. In two weeks more all the British and French subjects of the wretched huhel ILrmom — at least the living portion — arrived in San Francisco, for more than \ ii: 216 RAMBLIN<1S IN OALIFORNIA. one half fell victims to the pestilence. What became of the unfortunate Americans and others destitute of funds, whose governments were unable or uuwillinc: to protect them, I never learnt. Some inp^cnious fellows no doubt, contrived to make uood their through trip, but undoubtedly the greater portion of them met with miserable deaths in a foreign and unhospitablc land. THE SALTER. P,4 I have alluded once to the process termed "' salting," and the usual method by which it is performed by a shot gun, but various other ingenious plans are resorted to for the perpetration, all tending to the same object, viz: the change of funds, from the pockets of the green to those of tlie '' smart." But a great degree of acutcness is necessary at tlie present day, to cheat ajiy the least suspicious and possessing a moderate degree of experience. Alifk Ross, a tall raw-boned North Briton, had long Ix'on in the service of the Hudson's Bay Company, and was a vcsidoiit of (^\lifovnia for several xoars prior to the discoveries at Sutter's Mill. He had constantly adhered to mining, and being iiatnrally a slirewd fellow, had of course ;ie(juired much skill, as well as a correct judgment of the (jualityof ground from its consistence -iiid the value of gold in various districts, particularly as he bad tried his hand iti nearly every camp of the entire region. Our camp, which was on a branch of the Calaveras, contained very spotted digginus, und as a eonse(|Uenee, large strikes had been made at various times, that had the elVect of obtaining RAMHLIN'its IN CALIFORNIA. 217 became of of funds, to protect no doubt, doubtodly deaths in " salting/' 1 by a shot fted to for :, viz : the to those of ^ necessary )ici()us and liad lonii' ipany, and \vv to the ly lidhorod iw, had of judgment 1 the v:duc id tried liis Our camp, lined very , I ii\ v~ Jia'a ;' ol>t;unini»; for it isome favorable notoriety in the eyes of the public. We had some very skilful salters, who had plied their trade profitably for some time, resting on the reputation of the diggings, and so ably did they manage it, that they were not obliged even to abscond, the bad luck of the purchaser being always attributed to the irregularity of the deposits. Alick arrived one day, and soon had it gossiped round, that he was in search of a good claim to purchase, but as we afterwards discovered, he had not one week's board ahead, for although he had made money, he took care, like many cautious ones, to dispatch it home as fast as he ac- (luired it. \ le put up at the hotel, however, " showed out" handsomely at the bar, and in an extremely short space of time, had many tenders of great bargains. The fraternity tried him with several, but none prospected sufficiently well to meet his views until he was at last handed over to the guardianship of the most famous Salter in the whole neighborhood, that he might try his experience upen him. This man was well acquainted with all the principal leads, and at this time was the owner of the best claim in the camp, but he only performed sufficient labor upon it, as maintained his right according to the mining laws, trusting rather to his aptitude for swindling, than the exercise of his animal strength. It happened, unfortunately for him, that this really good claim was the only one over which he had control at that period, having just disposed of a worth- less one a few days before, at a high price ; but his cupidity could not withstand the temptation of plundering the re- putedly wealthy Scotchman, and he formed the resolution of makin"- it in the end a wor.so purchase than h' had previously sold. He seeded it down very thick, with the ■ 1 1 21 H RAMI51,1N(}S IN CALIFORNIA. \ 11 gold dust which had been given to him for his other claim, and then introduced the wily .Mick to the ground. A pick, pan, and shovel were presented to him, that he might try for himself, and he commenced to prospect in every spot where the proprietor recommended him to test. Nothing could be more satisfactory than the returns. The pay dirt was a strata six leet deep, lying on the ledge, over which was a sand bank of twice the thickness. I'art of this had been stripped ott', and the whole presented a face in an excellent position and good order for successful working. Every pan that was tried, produced four or five dollars, and in the course of three hours he had extracted more than a hundred dollars, which he deposited in a tin tobacco box of his own. "Well," said the impatient seller, at last, " I guess you've given it a pretty good sifting now. How d'ye like it V " Vera weel, vera weel," answered Alick, rolling his quid around leisurely, and examining with the eye of a connoi- seur, the sample in the tin box, '* An' what may be your price now, clear cash in your lif '/" "Six thousand scads, ne'er a red less," said the hopeful Salter. " It's a purty penny, a vera purty penny, but I'll nn gainsay't, the prospect's guid, though ane wee bit o' a phenomenon T canna get through my auld pate, and that's tins — Tfow in the name o' Auld Keekie, did Tuolumne gold get stuck in here ':"' The operator perceived at once that he was sold, and that instead of a victim, lie liau fallen in wilii a shark. All hope of a sale died away at <Hice, and he indignantly llAMr.MNdS IN CAI.IFORNIA. 219 ^hel• claim, ound. A it lie might , in every 11 to test, irns. The ledge, over . I'nrt of ited a face successful ve dollars, cted more ;in tobacco " I guess { d'ye like ig his quid f a connoi- y be your lie hopeful ut I'll n.. e bit o" a and tliat's Tuolumne Sold, and 11 a shark, idignantly demanded the contents of the tobacco box, but was foiled even in this. " Dinna try tliat, dinna try that," exclaimed Alick, " you will never handle a pi(;kle of it, and what's more, I'll advise you as a freen, to pick up your duds and tramp, for in twa hours iVom now, the boys will all kiiow't, and you'll have a hempen cravat on your scrag of a n(!ck before sundown, if they can lay their cloots on you." The foiled scoundrel knew this Avell, ami left on the in- stant, before liis last attempt became public, and Alick at once installed himself (jn the d(;serted premises, wheTe by hard labor and frugality, he soon accumulated a handsome sum. TV There was another deep old tactician in our immediate vicinity, who was familiarly named the " mariner." lie spake little to any one, and appeared so little cognizant of surrounding affairs, that it was said, his long aquatic ex- perience had caused his very brains to be encrusted with barnacles. To another old man of the sea, was he alone at all communicative, and from him v/erc afterwards gleaned facts, to prove the mariner rather a smart man than the reverse. He had worked long in solitude, and a very large hole was the result of niany months of uninterrupted labor. It was known that little had resulted yet from it, not even expenses, for he was slightly in debt at two or three ])laces. One morning, confused rumors were afloat, that the mariner had found a rich lead. It was said that he had washed out on the preceding evening, fifteen ounces of gold, from dirt he had thrown up on the banl:. Some showed joy, and some envy, at his success, and next Uiorniiig a iiTuaL ei'uwd of iiH(uIsili\ u pui'sons, Idlci's, ;Uiii creditors surnnuided him, as he plied his rocker assiiluously. '2-li) IIAMHLINUS IN CALIFORNIA. \ 'I ii His exprcssioiik'ss parcliiucnt euuntenancc betrayed no symptoms of triumph or tliankfulness at his sueccss. It seemed indeed, as thouiih fortune's gifts were fairly squan- dered on sucdi an unimaginative senseless lump of clay, and I dare say many of the lookers on thought within themselves, that had fate siiowcred ^ueh a blessing upon their shoulders, the boon would have been more worthily appreciated. A large quantity of pay dirt had already been thrown out on the bank on the previous evening, and the smooth small gravel of a blue color, mixed with a ten- acio\f^ lava, somewhat resembling gritty pipeclay, had a very flattering appearance. But a trifling casualty had occurred during the preceding night, from an embankment breaking in, which had the effect of filling the hole with water, though the disaster could be remedied by the use of a rotary pump, and the consumption of three or four days' labor. ]Jut it had the effect of preventing any one from trying the ground, till the water was removed. Still the old sailor plied his rocker, fast diminishing his pile of earth, and averaged three or four dollars at every bucket- ful. His merchant creditor was there with the rest, who handed him a letter which had just arrived by the mail, for he was also postmaster of the district. The old man stopped his labor, and after looking va- cantly at the superscription of the epistle, requested the storekeeper to decipher the contents for him, rs he was unable to perform that object for himself, having no ac- quaintance with book learning. The merchant complied, and they retired a few feet to one side, where he read the letter in a loud whisper, perfectly audible to a large por- sion of the bystanders. It was a sliort one, but it wa.s full of bitter words to the tempest tossed veteran. It purported RAMIlLlMiS IN rAI.IKORNIA rayed no Bcess. It I'ly s(|uan- P of clay, ht within ling upon i worthily (1 already ;ning, and dth a ten- ay, had a ualty had ban km en t hole with y the use !e or four o- any one ed. Still lis pile of •y bucket- rest, who the mail, oking va- csted the s he was ng no uc- complied, ! read the large por- li •.■V8.-5 Ian purported to be from a clergyman in San Francisco, who impl()re<l his immediate presence there, on matters of life and death. His wife and child, that he had long expected, had at last arrived — as too many did at that period — destitute, and prostrated with Panama fever. The hospital was the only resource, to which place they had been removed, and there in three days the child had expired. His wife was on her deathbed, and urgently desired him to come with speed, and cheer her dying hours The unfortunate man stood as if turned to stone for an instant, then suddenly striking his forehead with his clenched hand, ho fell heavily to the earth. Iinniediate assistance was rendered by the compassionate crowd, and he soon recovered, looking calm and collected, but with a deep conviction of his hopeless bereavement. He told those present that he must depart for the bay that very afternoon, and his only resource under present circumstances, was to dispos»> of his claim to the highest bidder, reserving a share to himself. By this means, he could thus retain a hold on tlie ground, but should he leave it entire, it would of course be jumped at the end of tliree days, according to the niining laws. Hiddors W(>vo numerous and co.upetition strong, for evei'vtliinL;' hiokt-d pn.pitiuns. A cniupany ])id SlOdO for it, and were dcclavcd tlio purchasers, after a very animated sale. Tlu' old man left for the city tliat very aftunm-jii with the cash in his pocket, to comfort her whom in his youth- ful days he had sworn lo protect and ehcrisli, and the pump was busily at work ne.\t morning in omptying the shaft, it took more than two days to perform this, and get rid of the waste earth tliat had caved in, but when this wa.s accon.H.'lisiied their lal'or was at an end, for a cent prospect was the l^est they could procure. The mystery as ,■ : I :ji'^4:^i-^s:^m!^vs-m^''^^'''-^^''^i^:''?- ', ■^^^gsassJi&^^H-asis-.t •>■>•> HAMI{MN(;S IN CAMFOKMA. 1^ to how ho itroeiircd the dust to salt the pile on the bank wa*) also shortly ex])lained to the dissatisfaction of his cabin mate, who on niakinfii; search found that the contents of his buckskin bag had taken wiufi;s, like the albatros with the ancient mariner. A deputation went in pursuit, but were just in season to be too late, for the steamer had already sailed, and on making enquiries for the reverend gentleman who had written so pathetically of the sick wonum, he was found to be a mere allegory got up for the occasion in the brain of the Salter. SEBASTOPOL IS TAKEN. Ine old proverb which says " Extremes in nature equal ends produce" never appeared more fully exemplified than in the sympathy shown, particularly by the democratic press and people, for Russia in its late struggle with the Allies, and in no portion of the world not directly inter- rested in the engagement, was the news more eagerly read and commented upon. The British and French residents of San Francisco are a very important item in the wealth and population of the place, and unlike the same people in other States but few of them calculate on a life residence in the country, and in consequence rarely ac(iuire the rights of citizens, but retain still a due affection for the land of their nativity, where they eventually intend to make their permanent homes. Now the native citizens can't understand how it is possible for people who have once tasted the sweets of libertv in such a hannv land, to sigh foi- nionarcliy. They will at first mildly expostulate HA.MIUil-Nd.S IN CAMIOHNIA. '2'i:i 1 the bank on of his ic coutents jiitroH with Lirsuit, but 3auici' had ; reverend f the sick up for the iture equal )lified than leniocratie witli the ctly inter- igcrly read 1 residents the wealth lue people 3 residence (juire the on for the iuteiid to 'c citizens who have y land, to xpoHtulate upon the subject, and tell from the depths of their srliool- boy lore, of how badly Henry VIII. treated his wives, of the iniquity of the Starchaniber, but their greatest fields are the enormities of that dreadful old tyrant (Joor^e III., with which they are most familiar, for the lir.st lesson in the school primer most likely contains a map of the spot where so many thousand " scarlet minions of despotism" uot cut into mince-nu'at by a handful of revolutionary heroes, or a review of the characters of Newton and Franklin, wherein, althon<;h much credit is p.ivcn to the talents of the former, it is nevertheless nnide sufficiently evident to any, having- a spark of patriotism, that the pedlar was a little ahead of anything ever produced in the olden world. But this hatred to anything savoring of a crown, will hardly be sufficient to account for the morbid fancy felt by the people, to see England thoroughly smashed by the Russians, and France also, like dog Tray, for being in such questionable company, for llu.^sia was unfortunate enough to possess the same hateful emblem. Undoubtedly the dislike to anything British, so grounded in their first school lessons, would account for the side taken, even by a portion of the conservatives, but a far deeper vein even than this, won the sympathies of the l^oco Focos for the Panslavist. It was the well defined similarity that existed between the worst features of llu.ssian policy and the present prominent essence of democracy, namely slavery and filibusterism, and the movement of mighty power uncontrolled by conscientious judgment. The feeling so prevalent in the metropolis, was equally rife in the little mountain towns, and many an ounce of dust and bottle of brandy exchanged owners, when thefall of the Malakoff became known in the mountains, and many 224 UAMllMNOS IN (AI.IFOKMA. \ 1 ¥ '1 K' a |)inm(U»f jtdWticr \v;is l.ivislily Idazcd iiway, )>y (Mitliusias- tic Fvt'iicli .-iikI I'liiLrlisli. fn (•iiiiiimMiKnati! tlic cNcnt, to the t'xdciiic (lisLiUst of Aiiiriicaiis in iiciicral. To say tlio truth, lioWt'ViT, oroiioiiiy was consulted even iu the ebullitions of joy at l!u' triumph, for the salutes were in our cam]), chielly perfornu'd hy blasfinu; lariro ro(d<8 tiuit lYMjuired removal from the diij;u;iuL!;s anyway, and many had as nuudi as thirty liole-^ drilled a month ahead, in anticipa- tion of the event. Nathan Suu^s was a fat <^()od-nature(l old Southerner, roasoiiabh" in most lhin<;s. excepting; slaveiy and thi; UusHJan war, with their collat(M-als. He owned a u,()od claim, and his nearest noiuhbor who held the adjoiiunj^ ground, was his diroctantipodos both iu body and iu politics, Ilia iiauiG was Louis, and his nation Canada East ; he was a mass of })onennd muscle, clumsily jiut to;j;ether, but posses- sing iu his constitution the eleuHMits of uucouuuoii ai^ility and endurance, althouii:;h slightly beyond the nnddle term of life. Louis's feelings were doubly enlisted in the great struggle that was convulsing Europe, he was both a clear descendant of one of the illustrious allies, and a subject of the other, yet his chief pride was iu the latter, for once a person while toasting Napoleon, with a view of pleasing the supi)osed J^'renchnian, was rudely int(!rrupted by the Canadian exclaiming, " l*eesh for Napolyaw ! me no care for France, me Anglicehomme." Each evening after work did the excited Canadian and Southerner light their windy battle, without a hope of mutual agreement, until they finally made a bet of six gallons of vhiskey, the Canadian affirming that the City of Sebastopol would be stormed -within a month, which Nathan Suggs persistently denied. A cessation of hostilities llAMIHilNdS IN rAMFKllMA. 2iir) iMitliUHias- I'VCllt, to lu say 'II in the s wi'ic ill (icks that many had anticipa- luthfiiirr, and tlic (1 a l;()()(1 adjuiniii}^ 11 politics, ho Mas :i ut pnssos- t)ii ability Jdlc tcnu the ^reat Lh a clear iubject of or once a pleasing hI by tlie e 110 care idiaii and ho])e of !t of six the City h, which lOHtilities foUowed the six <h»llar l)et, hut <;rcat anxiety was evinced for the arrival of the next mail, and one mornin<i', houis, who had his eyen constantly (tpeii for the arrival of news, Haw a courier with a Imndle of newspapers on tin; road approaidiiipj the camp, lie; met him hidore he arrived, and on learnint; the eonsiiinniation of his dearest hopes, jrallaiitly purchased the whole stuck, and sent tlu^ news- vender back rejoieinu, to i.nuure a fresh supply. His firHt visit was to his old oi.j)onent, to whom makiiiji; a low bow, h(i handed a paper, saying, [' Sar Monsieur Su<r}j;s, allow im- d(! extreme felicity of beinu; ue tirst to present you with de lati^st and de greatest news from tiie Crimea, l)e walls you said were inveenci))le liave crumbled into do Icetle <irains, by de powd(;r of <le -^reat allieH, and the Tri-oolour and Union .Jack tly from the Malakoff and Rodan." Nathan took the paj)er very sulkily from him and very smni convinced himself of the loss of his whiskey, and at once proposed to adjourn to his cabin for the purjxjse of cxtractint;' tin; precious fluid from the barrel, but Fiouis iuana<.^ed to commute it for a promise from Suggs, tliat he would treat the crowd at the bar of the hotel in the even- in"- when^ a miiuM-'s meeting was to be held for tlie adjustment of a claim. AVhen the business of the evening was concluded, Louis who had retained all the papers and thus prevented the circulation of the news, solemnly arose and informed the meeting — which numbered more than a hundred— of the great victory achieved, in a confused speech of French, Spanish and Knglish, " And now Men- sieurs," said he, "as this is the greatest achievement of modern times, my mooch respected amigo, Monfrere Signor Suggs, has kindly consented to treat all de gentlemen here u tSBBSSasimi 226 RAMBLINOS IN CALIFORNIA. ;n h to celebrate dc great prosperity of de grand nations of John Bull and La Belle France. So let us all now adjourn to de bar and liquor up." For all that, the news stunk in the nostrils of many and a hiss had been with great difficulty suppressed, thirst finally triumphed, and the conclusion of the Canadian's address was received with three times three and a tiger. The dis- comfitted Nathan had no opportunity of denying the sentiments imputed to him by his political antagonist, but his honour being pledged, he was obliged to disburse for the refreshment of the whole, to the unpleasant little sum of S2o. But the joy of the allies in San Francisco was to be celebrated in a more substantial manner. A banquet on a truly magnificent scale was prepared at their expense, to which not only the corporation was invited, but also all the principal Americans in the place, and iixleed so large were the supplies and so general the welcome, that the whole city was privileged to partake of the repast, which consisted of all the delicacies the bounteous market aflforded. A level space in a new park was chosen for the scene, and the day was ushered in by cannon, music and flags, in gorgeous profusion. The English and French vessels in the harbor were adorned with the flags of their respective nations blended together, but no American flag was visible except on the banquet ground, where it floated at an equal height with the others. All went on smoothly until the dinner was half concluded, when the suppressed feelings of the sons of liberty could no longer endure the desecra- tion. The allied flags were first depressed a few feet lower than the stars and stripes, but, even this failing to Boothe their feelings, they finally hauled France and England RAMBLINOS IN CALIFORNIA. 227 nations of >w adjourn lauy and a irst finally 's address The dis- lying the ;onist, but sburse for little sum was to be nquet on a cpense, to it also all (d so large , that the ast, which it aflforded. scene, and 1 Hags, in vessels in respective NHS visible it an equal until the id feelings 10 desecra- fcct lower y to goothe 1 England down by the run. Some foolish policeman, who attempted to dispute the will of the people by arresting the perpe- trators, was knocked down for his presumption and a general row was the result. The patriots won the day for they were prepared previously, and they made short work of the crockery and glass. The full bottles were spared however, and as soon as the ground was thoroughly cleared of the impertinent foreigners, they sat down and enjoyed themselves in the camp of the foe, singing Hail Columbia and the Star Spangled Banner, until daylight coming in with empty bottles, compelled them to adjourn. The law never even dared to notice the affair, and foreigners have no doubt learnt the lesson, that although Fourth of July may be celebrated in other countries and responded to by their authorities, the rule won't work both ways, as it is now a maxim that America is only for the Americans. WAR IN CHINA. In the same district where I held the office of Recorder of Claims, the rights of the Asiatics were well respected ; for as the new ditch did not make fortrncs for people, quite so fast as it was originally supposed, it w;is found particularly haudy to dispose of their claims for a con- sideration ; and as the Chinese are the easiest satisfied, with regard to paying ground, they were always the l^ost customers for these indifferent claims, and by these means rose vastly in public estimation. As is customary with them in all the other places, they arc perfectly submissive to white authority, and scarcely over attempt to resist even '■>•■> S( UAMHLINOS IN CALIFORNIA. \ ft. I s oppression^ except in expostulation, and their eUxiuence is sometimes very touchint^ and effectual in this line of oratory. IJut for all so submissive to the " red haired barbarians," the ease is ((uitc the reverse with each other, for people from different sections of their own wide spread empire, sometimes keep up an eternal feud with each other. Two rival districts were the candidates for public favor in this camp ; one party was from Canton, the other from Hong Kong, and really their undying rancour towards each other, could hardly find a parallel, unless perhaps between the Far-downs and Oorkonians, or the Yankees and Border RulRans in the Kansas Territory. Although they originally kept as far divided as possible, so fast did they pu chase, that the} ;uched at last on each other, and then com- menced that bickering between them that finally led to most disastrous consequences on the whole. Their nuiii- bcrs were about 150 in each^ ;md generally once or twice a week they hod a turn out to fight. When the fortunes of the day had turned, a runner from the defeated party would invariably proceed to me, and implore my assistance to <iuell the riot, with a five dollar piece in his hand. As this operation rarely consumed more than five minutes, I usually complied, unless very particularly engaged, as I seldom fell in with a more profitable and safe investment of time, for so afraid were they of general expulsion on account of their pugnacious spirit, that a truce invariably followed my presence on the battle field. There was a sort of mandarin on the weaker side, whom we called cajyfdin, on account of the power he seemed to wield. He was rather a gentlemanly good looking fellow, for one of his race, and did little besides ssnokc opium , which luxury cost him, he said, three dollars per day. HAMIJL1\(?S IN CALIFORNIA. eliMiuonce is line of ed haired acli other, ide spread ach other, ibllc favor )thcr from nn'ds each IS between ad Border oriojinally pu 1 chase, ihen cora- illy led to leir nuiii- 3 or twice c fortunes ited party assistance and. As iiinutcs, I igcd, as I ivcstment )ulsion on invariably ide, whom iicemed to u<^ fellow, ic opiuin , I per day. The captain lived by advancing money to his countrymen, on interest, for the purchase of claims, and was, as all cap- italists generally are, a man of peace, and much opposed to anarchy. Seeing the troubled spirit of his people, he consulted mc upon the subject, fur he spoke English pretty well, and wanted to know if a policcusan could be supplied to them, as they were .luitc willing to pay fifteen dollars a day for the use of such a functionary, armed with all the terrors of the law to the violators of the public peace. Pondering upon the subject, I recollected that our nearest magistrate, who lived ten miles off, had just resigned, and wa^ preparing to turn his attention to piracy in Nicaragua. I informed a' youthful friend of mine from the Eastern States, of the Chinaman's proposal, together of the vacancy requiring to be filled, for I knew Zaddock Green abhorred labor, most religiously, and a well timed application to the Board of Supervisors at the county town, would in all probability secure him an appointment to the vacant ofhco, for the unexpired time of his predecessor. A week bad expired, and I had almost forgotten the circumstance, wbcn one morning 1 was handed a billet by Zaddock, bearing an official look, which on opening, I found to my extreme surprise and humiliation, contained an appointment for mc to the judgeship. Shades of my ancestors, blush for your unworthy descendant 1 I who had always valued a good reputation, and conducted my- self ' dcrly and peacefully, to be thus disgraced. In what unguarded moment had I left myself open to such an in- sult, I could not recall. But I determined to decline, and returned an answer to that effect to the board, urging in palliation, that I was not qualified for the office, there beinti' no prospect that I should ever aequire the lionors citizenship. uj i t# 0[ 230 RAMBLINGS IN CALIFORNIA. Ifr SI !t! f i ■ Poor Zaddock was luucli ufieiided at my resolve, for he haVl taken the trouble, unknown to me, of carrying round the petition that finally led to the appointment, and he built his hopes on being made a speeial con>stablc; for as the judge and constable ;tre invariably partners, it would have been a good speculation, between the daily allowance of the mandarin, together with absorption of all fines and the profits resulting from transient business. I left this place a few days after, and did not return again for more than five months, but great doings had occurred during the first month of my absence. The Hong Kong and Canton riots burned with exceeding fury at first,, and so deadly did the animosity finally be- come, that a challenge to mortal combat was given and accepted. Couriers were dispatched to all adjacent camps for the respective friends of the belligerents, to make their appearance on a certain day oi a certain moon, ''armed and equipped as the law directs," and some thousands were shortly in motion carrying their rations of boiled rice to the Chinese stamping ground. The following is some- thing near a literal translation of the challenge from the one Chieftain to the other. " The high and mighty man of power, Sam Yap, con- descends to speak to the woman-hearted spotted dog, Ah Whop, to tell him that his people are nothing but as dung beneath the feet of Sam Yap's men of war; you think you can light us, and you are welcome to try. We will use our weapons to punish you, but we will not load all our muskets, for our bare hands would be quite enough if we liked, to chase such yelping curs. Your puny efforts will no more affect us than the ocean waves do a rock bound coast. You will smash as an egg, thrown from the n s' IlAMBLINtiS IN CALIFORNIA. 231 hand of a strong man against the walls of a fortress. You may tight us if you please, but we will exterminate you ; and, if like cowards as you are, you will not tight us, we will cut off your hair and make you work tor us; we will also take your claims, and your tools, and your large footed women, and feed you on snakes and the refuse of our tahles,— so you see we are generous, for we give you a choice, hut we would rather destroy you, for you consume meat that should be applied for the nourishment of better men, and we want to be benefactors to the world." Such a billet as that, was enough to irritate the people of Ques, to whom it was dispatched, and soon the rival armies met in desperate combat with all the panoply and imposing sound peculiar to eastern warfare. During the height of the preparations, an observant citizen got himself quietly installed into the magistracy, but bided his time to make it profitable. He made no attempt to interfere with the coming struggle, but along with some neighbour- ing brethren of the bench, secretly encouraged it ; and then with a few mounted constables, he and the others soon divided the armies and commenced to capture. This oc- casioned the most serious riot of the day, for, although the Chinese attempted no resistance, the different magis- trates fell out about the prisoners, one imagining the other had more than his rightful share; but as they had several hundreds each, they shortly came to an under- standing after a few pistol shots and a broken arm or two. Each conqueror then led his prisoners to his own home for trial, and fined them from $100 down to a dollar, according to their several resources, keeping the whole amount to themselves, and my honorable successor made the comfortable little thing of ^15,000 for his services in preserving the public peace. i :\ I. !i S CONCLUSION. Gentle Reader, who has followed me thus far in my wanderings, I will now release you, for my pleasant task is ended. No more shall we breathe together the life-giving atmosphere of El Dorado's shores, or pry into the deep mines, where the coarse gold lies imbedded in the cool crevices of the slaty bed-rock. No more shall we tread with each other o'er the far reaching flower covered prairies, and smile at national characteristics or quaint individual peculiarities. You will soon forget both these and me. The grim mountain, the water-fall and the brawlins river, with the careless lives of the generally happy gold hunters, which I have endeavoured to picture for our mutual amusement, will soon fade from your mind like an artificial panorama. More courtly drawings will -.soon obliterate the coarse daub from your recollection; but long must be my life before the scenes that called forth these Ramblings will be forgotten. But in truth, much as there is of the romantic in the wild vagaries of nature, I acknowledge that with me, the recollections of the lu- dicrous will loncv outlive the sublime, and the eccentric motions of animated nature, chiefly overshadow the IIAMI{MN(JS IN CALIFORNIA. \ 4 •..J beautiful thuugli scjloiun scenes of the iiiaiiimatc. 1 must still laugh when I think of the way my poor friend D sprained his ancle, and was lame for a month in conse- quence. He was a boarder with a fanner in Santa Cruz, who had a ranch close to the foothills of the Coast Ilanire, which at this point was a great resort of grizzly bears. The house was built near the brow of an elevated flat, from whence the ground gently descended to a broad bottom land; the wheat had just been taken off, and the cattle were feeding in j)leuty on the rich refuse of the stubble field, close to the fence of the garden which occupied a portion of the slope. One evening after the whole house- hold had for some time retired to rest, the family were aroused by the agonized bellowing of an unfortunate "critter" in the flat. So constant and severe were the sounds, that all were soon convinced a grizzly had made the milky mother Kate, liis prey, who was last seen quietly chewing the cud and surveying the good things within the garden fence. The farmer not being a sporting character, handed 1) — . the venerable flint-lock musket, which had been loaded but not discharged for three mouths previous, and accompanied him to tlie field to dispute possession with Bruin, who by the weaker complaints still growing fainter through tha pitcliy darkness, was evidently coming to the tender steaks. I.) — . cautiously approached the bloody ground, stealing along by the fence, his companion (jacking him, but a good way off, and on seeing the outlines of the struggling animals he boldly presented and blazed away at the centre of the lieap. The chief mischief was probably done by the rebound, for it knocked the musketeer flat, who on uaininu' his feet saw his backer makino- aroat nro- gress up the hill towards the bosom of his family, D — . RA RULINGS IN CALIFORNIA. 2n5 emulatca his example as well as he was able, still elin-ing tenaciously to the clumsy weapon, and the muscles of his legs were further strained to.their utmost capability by the sound of feet in pursuit. At length he reached the house and tumbled in through the doorway, just in time to shut out his grim follower, who fairly roared with the disap- pointment, and kept his head close to the door, as they could see through u chink in the temporary walls of the building. The farmer's nerves were so shaken, he was utterly unable to make the smallest exertion, and D— . de- termined in spite of his disjointed ancle to try another shot at the bloodthirsty beast. He took as accurate aim as the outward gloom would permit, and this time a loud roar, falling to a gurgling, sound, told that the last shot was more successful than the first. Another bullet was fired at the body to make all sure, and then he ventured along with his nervous companion, to limp out and examine the proportions of their spoil. At this ^ment the pain was unfelt, and the state of his feelings might be envied by the proudest monarch, for the objects of many a heart- felt wish was gratified on that eventful night, and he might now take his place among his fellows, to boast that he'too had slain a grizzly. Keenly did he approach and turn the lamp upon the prostrate monster to gloat upon the conquest, but alas ! the light but revealed a meek graniv- orous beast, being neither more nor less than the sucking calf of the murdered Kate, that had fled for protection to the very hand that slew her at the threshold. The cow and calf made fair veal and beef, the grizzly still roams in his native hills, and the wounded limb recovered, but the adventures of that night form an unpleasant theme for conversation to the would-be bear slayer, even unto this day. 230 RAMHLIN<;S IN CALIFORNIA. [ i'h s 1^. Nor can I fusily forLTc't tliat Sunday uiorniiif;', that wo lost all our rockers and tools, on tlic banks of Littlo John Creek, by the rapid risintr of this mountain torrent. The lari;e creek had declined to a rivulet during' a loii^' dry spell, and although a heavy rain had fallen on Saturday night, the rise was so imperceptible in the morning, we did not deem it e.'^scntial to remove Our implements any further from the waters ediie, than we had left them the night before. It had been noised around for a few day&, that a young lady had made her appearance at a neigh- bouring ranch, and as such commodities were rare in our parts, the greatest ladies' man in our company made up his mind to pay her a visit. He consumed four dollars in the purchase of a complete new suit at the store, consist- ing of a pair of cow-hide shoes and cotton pants, a shirt and a fifty cent stra\v hat, and being rather a good looking fellow when his hair and beard were oiled with some pork dripj)ings, it was generally supposed that the sucker girl's heart would be carried by storm. While the gallant was away, time hung rather heavy upon our hands, particularly as there were no shirts worth mending, and Uncle Ben — a funny little fisherman from some region contiguous to Cape Cod — was deputed to cross the river on horseback, in pursuit of a bottle containing something to cheer the drooping spirits of the party. The bed of the river, although so nearly dry, was up- wards of a hundred yards across, and Uncle Ben — who was rather deaf, by the way — had just entered it, success- ful in his mission, and on his return. While watching his progress, I detected the roaring of waters, and looking hin-lier un, saw a body of water lookincr nioro than five feet deep, rushing furiously down towards the old man, and IVAMUL[N(JS IN CALIFOUNIA. •J37 ;ilmidy within (ifty yards uf him. i haUued to him as loud as I was able, but idthDiigh my voice was drowuod by the rushing of the cataract, his inlirmity prevented him from hearin- either, and horse and rider were soon bat- tlin- with tiie iiercc clement. P»en nobly retained his seat for some time, but was iinally uidiorscd, and we feared his career was ended, f/ittle dohn was uui to master him, however, who, he said, had been once within the jaws of H living whale, and he reached land safe and sound, not only with his own little person, but the bottle of whiskey also, .luitc uninjured. The horse escaped, by grounding oil a high sandbar, but our implements, which embraced nearly all the capital we po.sscssed, were caught by the current, and were soon rapidly journeying on their road to Han Francisco bay. The whiskey sufi'ered severely by the disaster, but failed to comfort, and the luver who returned at night with a very sour visage, contributed but little to restore the usual eheerfulness of the party. "It was a most confounded bad road," said he, " for it t(;oi; me above the ancles several times, and llile<l my shoes with mud, and as the pants were short, and 1 had no socks, it sadly deteriorated from my general good appearance, but I stuck to it till 1 reached the cabin, which was nothing but an old patched mainsail of a fore and after, with the reef points still fast to it, thrown over a line attached to a couple of trees. As the place had no door, L rattled my stick on an old ^cracker tin, and a sharp voice sung out— ' Stop that, you V So I stopped, lifted up the rotten duck, and exposed myself and the occupant to each other at the same time. She was all alone, and rigged nut in the ye'^owest fui'iiituie eottuu dress you ever set \nur eyes on, which hung lMo>e on her \ 'S.iH HAMHI-irj(».S IN CAI.irOKNlA. liir^c porson, like, [ii Mcxic^an's scnippa, bat not half so i^rAooful. I [or hair was dono up a la Impt^raisc, I tliink they call it, which exposed lior piinpled rorcheiid, and a j)air of iiveat brass earbobs that liuiiu; down below her chin njost uid)eeoniin<ily. Slie was s(>ated on an old li(juor barrel, with two feet like brieks restinji on a tall oak .stunjp in the very nnddle of the tent. In her left hand .she held a little live cent circular shavinp;-^lass, and in hor right was a bowie knife, a good fourteen inches long, with whi(di she was pieking her delicate teeth. I bowed and bid her good day, but she would'nt look me in the face, my dirty feet had alone attraction for her, for she stared at them for a c(»uple of minutes before! she w<mld speak a word, then .siys ,she "(Marl We haint got nothin' for ourselves, and ef you don't dar right smart, I'll loose Tag on yon." So 1 " elared " as the angel commanded me, and I'm right sorry now (hi.t ! laid out so much money on dress, for it was only wasted on the meal-fed baggage, and besides it will all be wanted now to help in ju'ocuring a new lot, oi' tools. Hut it is too late to become locjuacious iu>w, for 1 am, as I said, at the eonclusion of these my recollections. I drop the pen with regret ; but 1 fear to weary in recount- inti' scenes, that Imwevcr amusing in their origin, with loeal circumstances attached, may fail to interest in the repetition, with no such accompaniments to give /est. My talc is t(tl(l, of California and the vicissitudes of its people, and much as 1 have endured of the \inpleasant in my experience, L lan truthfully say, that pleasing remem- brances most pvedomimite ; and whatever my after fate may be, in the great game of life at whit>i we arc all playing — some staking golden nuggets, and son»o copper RA.M1U<1N(JS IN CAMFUllNlA. 'SM pfiicc, aiul suiiic iiuTo I'iippiM-s, buckiiij,' fur show at the Olid of tlu! tabic — 1 fur one, shall hok not, hack with reirrct, on my voyauc to the healthy shores of the Nt»rth Pacific. THK KNl). TOUONT'):