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Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre film6s d des taux de reduction diff6rents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clich6, il est film6 d partir de Tangle supdrieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images n6cessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 NORTH-WEST MOUNTEU POLICE REPORT OF TRIP TO THE YUKON 1897 I!V INSPECTOR W. H. SCARTH "^^Ce^J ^S?af^^5ife OTTAWA GOVERNMENT PRINTING BUREAU 1898 imi^^j. .1«=, 7i^ai>r: . ■iu f >^\ € 'i^^'^fel^S TRIP TO THE YUKON BY INSPECTOR W. H. SCARTH. The Officer Commanding Yukon Detachment, Fort Constantine. North-west Mouxted Police, Fort Coxstaxtixe, 17th June, 1897. ./^' ^ \ - •^u-' Sir, — I have the honour to submit herewith a diary of luy trip to this post from Regina, from the 8th April, to the 12th June, 1897, lx>th dates inclusive : — Thursday, April 8th. — Left Regina at 11 a.m.. Assistant Commissioner McIUree in command, with S. Sergt. Bates. Corporals Carter, Conway, Belcher and (Jreen, and Constables Sabourin, Healy, Snell, Carter, Graham and Stuart. At Maple Creek, Constable Donnelly joined party. Friday, April 9th. — The Commissioner. A. S. M. Davis and Constables Aspinall, Dundas, Broster, McCulloch. Good, Saunders and Smith came on board in eariv a.m. Delayed few hours east of Donald by mud slide. When crossing the slide the track slipped 18 inches. Commissioner left party at Donald. Encountered snow slide between Summit and Glacier House. Train delayed four hours. Raining all day. Saturday, April 10th. — Fine bright day. Arrived Vancouver at 6 p.m.; boat for Victoria had left. Found comfortable hotel for men. Sunday, April 11th. — Bright warm day. Left for Victoria on steamer -'Charmer" at 1.30 p.m. ; good trip across. Chief of Police Hussey met party at wharf. N.C. officers and constables were quartered at the Occidental Hotel. Monday, April 12th. — Fine day, very warm. Issued lined stable clothing to members of party. Tuesday, April 13th. — Fine day. Purchased slickers, gum-boots and sou'-westers. Wednesday, April 14th. — Fine day. Swc-n in as pttstmaster at Fort Cudahy ; gave bonds 8250 ; received .^50 in postage stamps, j^Iso mail for Klondike and Fort Cudahy. Thursday, April 15th. — Fine day. "City of Topeka" came in early a.m.; b«,iarded her at 10 a.m. L'niiorm ordered, and worn by men — line < sr 'aave port with 3f saloons in this ged to take our d in this carrying his spite on our aring he will not in then goes up ihrash him when )ut for $50 and d like sardines, I almost entirely efore good stiiF iscape on north iptain ran us on hi;>:h and dry a a f-hore close to 1 p.m. with aid in village here ; irge number of Men employed nissioner made tailed N. C. O, ;ep moving the pie. Schooner out in a.m.; team and 11 ssioner, Sergt. bad travel - huge boulders amped all the and it seems n. Assistant lu ; lands her len and other uflF to-day. I Corp. Carter camp. Party with them as ilt by Healy, ) with packs, nd from now ! the creek is jelow a mere 100 ft. or so en spent on ish and mud y falls are a frequent occurrence. As most of outfit is put up in 50 pound packs (this is the usual load, although some of the stronger members of the J'arty took 100 pounds every trip), the trip to Pleasant Camp and back takes about three hours. The Indians pack very heavy loads, some of them taking from 150 to 'JOO jiounds, they charge I'.^h'. per jiound from Dyea to the summit, about IG miles. Hear of a great deal of stealing farther up the pass. Tuesday, April 27th. — Snowed during night. Fine, bright morning. Herron arrived with remainder of outfit. Staff Sergt. IJates and party airivod from Dyea. Sent five men on to keep moving outfit on to Sheep Camp. Made six trips to-day, party very tiretl. Wednesday, April 2Sth. — Snowing heavily during night. Fine morning. A man packing over trail fell about 20 feet into a gulch running alongside of trail ; whs unhurt. Asst. Commissioner ariived from Dyea. Made six trips to-day. Thursday, April 29th. — IMoved camp right through to Sheep Camp this morning. Sleighing from Pleasant Camp to Sheep Camp, about two miles, very hard woik ; ground is bare in places and snow is soft. Assent very gradual. Trail runs very close t(j river in places, and slopes towards it, )naking it hard to keep sleighs from going in. Constable Donnelly had a nasty fall to-day. Big camp here. Friday, April 30th. — Rained all night, raining in morning. S. M. Davis and party left for Pleasant Camp to bring up remainder c* outfit. Everything here by 2 p.uj., just in time as sleighing has given out. Asst. Commissioner engaged Indian chief Lsaac to pack our stuff to the summit for 5c. a pound. Two thefts rep(irted this morning ; one man had all his bacon stolen, another had a pair of i-ubber boots taken. Large number of people here, see lots of horses going in, all look in good condilion. Some people on this side of the summit have been here since .lanuary. Saw American Customs officer to-day on his way to Dyea ; has been accompanying man named Sullivan through Ala.ska to the boundary line (the summit). Sullivan has a permit to take 2,000 gallons of whisky into British Columbia, and had his outfit bonded through U. S. Territory. Has 200 10-gallon kegs. Two saloons in this place. Saturday, May 1st. — Dull and cloudy. Send N. C. (). an'l 4 men over the summit man. Two thefts reported this morning, man had all his spare canvas stolen. Indians start packing, 20 of them at work, with instructions to camp at Lake Linde- Man named Knight had sled stolen, another Sunday, May 2nd. — Fine bright day. Indians packing. Sent eight more men over the summit. Asst. Commissioner went up to summit. Rained in p.m. Corp. Green returned from Dyea ; reported steamship " Mexico " had arrived with 47 passengers. Monday, May 3rd. — Fine bright morning. All up at 4 a.m. Asst. Commissioner handed over command of party to me, and we left at 5.30. Indians packing remainder of outfit. Asst. Commissioner remains at Sheep Camp. Timber gets much sparser and scrubbier as we get higher up the pass. Gradual ascent for about 2 miles, snow getting heavier and deeper as we go on to Stone House. Here is the end of the timber and the foot of the snow line. From now on to the foot of the summit, 1^ mile, very steep ascent. Pass narrows considerably near foot of summit. There is a sort of tramway running up to the top of the summit from here, which is run by horse power. It is only a sled let up and down by a rope which is passed round a dead man at the top. To the right of this is a place where the ascent is not r;aite so steep ; here most people go up. This is about a 1,200 feet sheer climb. A couple of hundred yards walk to the west, around a couple of peaks, brings us to where our outfit has been left by the Indians. At times the summit cannot be crossed for days on account of the severe storms which rage along the crest of the mountains. There is a steep descent from the summit to Crater Lake, which people say is the crater of an extinct volcano. Setting an outfit down on to the lake is easy, two sleds are lashed together, their loads being securely lashed also, and then they are started, the impetus gathered in the descent sends thera away out on to the lake. All our sleds got away safely. Crossing the lake and keeping the right side of the pass, we come to the Canon about five miles tioni the summit, to here the going is fairly easy, as wo can sit on the sleds and tohoggaii down the descents ; (two men to e ich sled with about 500 lbs. to eacii sled). From here to Lake I.indeman the trail is veiy bad ; the warm weather has softened the snow and ice, and has caused the trail to l)t> cut up fearfully. The tiail is very narrow, turns are so sharp, the descents so steep, and in places where the river is open it takes all that two men can do to prevent the sled from sliding down into it. Sometimes one or other of the party goes through the ice and snow into the river up to his waist or sometimes his neck. Arrive at Lindeman at 8.45 p.m., wet through and all aeud tired. Laige camp here. Man doing stealing about Sheep Camp was caught to-day. Tuesday, May 4th. — Fine day. Sent four men over to head of L ike Bennett, and 12 men back to sui-.unit for remainder of outfit. Party to liennett took 1,000 lbs. in p.m. S. M. Davis and Staff Sergeant Uates, Corporal Carter, and Constable Carter with two sleds, 1,000 lbs. on each, and self with 500 lbs. on a sled, crossed Lake Lindeman in p.m. about five miles across, easy going, lake is o])en at the foot, land our stuff and pile it on the shore, send word to Lake Bennett party to portage it over. Took five and a quarter hours for the round trip. Best time to travel is in the early morning, as the icf^ gets soft and slushy towards mid-day. Party to summit return about 6 p.m. Report Canon bieaking up very (juickly, no more travelling on it after to-day. People will have to pack round it. Ail our outfit here now. Corporal Conway reports that thief caught yesterday at Sheep Camp, was traced by a committee of miners, who confiscated all his govas cauyht to-day. e Bennett, and 12 1,000 lbs. in p.m. ihle Carter with Lake Lindeman nd our stuif and 3ver. Took five f* farly morning, urn about fi p.m. it after to-day. Conway reports of miners, who library," to be out of Canadian eets. No snow es, Sergt. Bates -Nine sleds have at a good pace, rig over to head small loads can w entirely gone yesterday are only drawback, building boats, the mouth of aw and is run pplied by the lilds boats and not supply the bnd has to be and sails for $4, as people ay down from lissioner's last •'^0 p.m.; blew I snow. Did large number start as men me to see me :a to take 200 British terri- . and not to i Friday, May 7tli. — All up at 3 a.m. Sun not up, made a start at 4.45, no wind. Travelling good as there was a frost last night. About live niiles down the liikr was open, started round edge, strong south wind came up, \\\n-n we put up our sails which hclpetl us along considerably. About 10 a.m. came to another open spot in the ice about 12 miles down the lake near Monument Island. Ice very soft and iiail to travel on by this time. .Made a eamp in a little cove opposite the islaiul on west side of lake. This seems to be place mentioned by Ins))ector Constantine in his diary on the 17th -luly, 1894, where he built his boat, (iood big patch of timber all around us. As ice is getting so bad will try and make pernuinent camp at Wheaton IJiver which we ought to reach to-morrow. As lake is open right across, .send party in p.m. to put snow on bare spots along the beach, about | mile from this. Two men camped here are going to build their boats here. Inttle creek come-: in f)pposite here tm east side of lake, litth; placer mining was done hero about three years iigo, but it did not pay well enough and was abandoned. ^ ery warm day. Saturday, May 8th. — All up at 2. .30 a.m. Chilly and snowing a little, not much frost last night. Uot away at 4.15, look us an hour and n quarter to make the | mile round point whifh I spoke of yesterday. From this point the lake widens consi(leral)ly. Ice soft and slushy, we keep near the west shore, but continually break through the upper crust, (there is good solid ice underneath) so take the centre (»f the lake where the ice is firmer. About 4 miles down we come to West Arm of Lake Bennett, meet a man with a dog team going south, ask if lake is safe across to Wheaton River, he said yes, that the centre is better than along the edge. (Wheaton River is about 5 miles from where we are.) On proceeding a little, the ice looks to me un.safe and I was on the point of giving orders to turn back, when my sleigh which was on the lead broke through and the others broke through, with the exception of three, fortunately only one runner of each sled broke through. I find we have only about two inches of rotten ice between us and deep water. The firm ice is about 100 yards back. We unpack the sleds and pack the stuff back to the firm ice, and then haul the sleds back, every step we take the ice can be seen bending under us. I keep the men from crowding together, and only one sleigh goes through altogether but this is close to the firm ice, and we haul it out with ropes. Const. Good went right through but pulled himself out by hanging on to the sled. I then make for the east shore wliich is nearest (about ^ mile) on a strip of firm ice with all possible speed, as the sun is getting very warm, and has a visiVile eflFect on the ice, and reach shore thankful that no lives or stores have been lost. For- tunately for us the ice was elastic, and not brittle. As there is a good camping place here, and plenty of timber, and as ice is getting so bad decide to make permanent camp here. People building boats all along the lake, patches of good timber all the way down. Wrote to Asst. Commissioner and the Comptroller, as I hear there is a man going down to Dyea in a couple of days. Bought another pair of snowshoes for .*4. The snow glasses used by ua are not suited for this kind of travelling, the mica becomes clouded over with the steam so as to prevent our seeing anything, and the heat from the face melts the glue and they come apart. Chilkoot Pass not by any means as bad as it is painted, earlier in the year we would have found the crossing easy. Sunday, May 9th. — Fine bright day, rain during night, by 10 a.m. ice unfit to travel on. Allowed men to sleep in late. Sharpened saws, and slung all the bacon out to dry, and generally made the camp comfortable. Spread everything out to dry. Routine for camp, as follows : Reveille, 6.30 Breakfast, 7.15 Work, 8. Dinner, 12. Work, 1.30 Supper, 6. This makes Si hours work a day. All blankets to be aired once a week, allow Saturday afternoon for washing, etc. Constable Healy detailed as assistant cook. Daily, except Sunday, when they like. when I allow men to get up 6 Motulny, lOtli May.— Fine day, no wind. Party of 12 niidfr Constahh' (lood started to get out tiiiiljer and t-iect sasv-jdt Man nainfd Aldiitlge came down lake this morning', was niakinp for weak ice when he was warned by S. M. Davis, (tot out about 14 logs, started whij) sawing in p.m. S. M. Davis making trestles, work hencl), etc. .Sent Corporal IJelcher iiack to juit up notice that ice was unsafe north of west arm. Tuesday, 11th May. - J'ine day, strong wind from south. Men whip-.sawing, S. M. Davis and StatT-Sergt. Bates making framework, of first scow. Have decided to l)uild threc! scows, '2 t ft. long on top l»y •") ft. ti in., and -' ft. in dejttli. Corporal (.'onway off duty. Man from foot of lake reports that Indians are catching lots offish ; detailed party to go down with three days" rations, taking the fish net. Sent party out hunting, returned with nothing. Man camped below us shot a lu-ar ye.-.^er(lay. Raining in p.m. Wednesday, iL'tli May. — Fine morning, rained during night. Wind from south. Party detailed yesterday (fid not leave, as we found that the meshes of the net were too big for any fish caught in the.se waters, 7^ i". mesh and net used is 3^ in. Our net is a salmon net, and they do not co.mc up ri%er until .lul\. Men whip-sawing, ot. ..is cutting tire-w(jod, etc., Corporal Conwuy to duty today. Lake open in ceiitre, raining in p.m. S. M. Davis and Staff-Sergeant Bates working on first scow. Pu*. out night line. Thursday, May 13th. — Raining this morning, wind from sou'h. Men wliip--awing. S. M. and S. Sergt. Bates prcpiring lumber and working on l;oats. Have al ait sixteen logs sawed up now ; build new saw-pit nearer camp, and get mr)re logs out. Const. Good invaluable at this kind of work ; place him in charge or all working jjarties. Corps. Carter and Green out hunting, returned empty-handed ; no fish on night line. Frida}', May Nth. — Fine day, wind from south ; snowed and f"oze last night. Men whip-sawing. S. M. and Bates at work on scow. Corp. Carter and Const. Sabourin out hunting. Corp. (ireen actl.i^' cook. Aldridge returned this a.m., had dinner in camp ; did not get to Dyea ; he hir^'l a man to take outfit down for !?!•'), who also took my letters. Man named Sam Healv brother of T. C. Healy, of the N. A. T. and T. Co., camped near us, represents an Lnglish syndicate. Corp. Conway off duty in p.m Hunting partv returned with one grouse and one rabbit. Saturday, ]May loth. — Fine day, wind from south ; hard frost last night. Lake opening up rapidly. Men whip-sawing in a.m. All blankets aired to-day. Climbed mountain behind us, and went back into the country a bit. Any quantity of timber where the country has not been burnt. Pitch pine, spruce, balsam, cottonwood and poplar. Wheaton River valley seems well timbered. Grouse and rabbit in the shape of bouillon a great treat after nearly a month of bacon. Saw fiesh moose tracks close to camp. Corp. Conway still ofi' duty. We tish every day and night, but catch no fish. Hear that there is lots of liquor at the head of the lake being sold, but that is in British Columbia. Sunday, May I6th. — Fine day, very warm, hard frost last night, no wind. Monday, May 17th. — Fine day, wi. ■ from south, very warm ; first scow ready for caulking. Men whip-sawing. Fatigue party cutting wood. Tuesday 18th May. — Fine day in the morning, ice beginning to move out of lake very rapidly, wind from south, started to rain about 10 a.m., men whip-sawing and cutting firewood. Corp. Green and Const. Saunders caulking first scow, Sergt.-Major and Staff- Sergeant Bates started building second scow. Wednesday, 19th May. — Pine day, very warm, no wind. Lake entirely open except at lower end, first scow finished and launched to-day. Men whip-sawing. Sergt. Major and men at work on boat No. 2. Thursday, 20th May. — Fine day, heavy wind in p.m. All timber cut is whip-sawed. Two more logs needed. Got them abou!t a mile back, put up saw-pit there and sawed them up. Sergt.-Major on No. 2 boat. Friday, 21st May.. — Fine day, strong south wind, icie running hard. No. 2 scow ready for caulking, erected small wharf. All lumber required is now cut, some planks .stable (UumI sturtecl II lake this morning', out al>out 14 logs, bench, etc. Sent west arm. ivhip-sawing, S. M. ve decided lo build i\ Conway off duty, detailed party to go hunting, returned iig in p.m. Wind from south, af the net were too h in. (hir net is a •ing, otl.rs cutting e, raining in p.m. t night line. Men whip -awing, lave al Mt si.xteen logs out. Const, ing parties. Corps, ight line. f"oze last night, id Const. Sabourin m., had dinner in Hi), who also took e N. A. T. and T. off duty in p.m. ast night. Lake to-day. Climbed uantity of timber Isam, Cottonwood md rabbit in the I esh moose tracks night, but catch g sold, but that is no wind. it scow ready for move out of lake wing and cutting •Major and 8taff- irely open except ig. Sergt. Major ut is whip-sawed, there and sawed rd. No. 2 scow cut, some planks we got 24 ft. by 12 in., and all the rest were good sized. Men caulking No. 2 .scow. Hergt.-Major and men on No. ;{. Man named Jack.son came to camp to try and borrow nailn, had none to spare. Saturday, 22nd May. — Fine day, calm. Lake elear of ice, two men left for Wheaton River with 2 days rations in Inflian canoe found near hen; to hunt. Number of siiiall boats passed down lake to-day. JJIankets aired. No. 2 .scow ready for launch- ing. Men cutting tirtiwood and cleaning up round camp. Sunday, 23nl May. — Fine day; party sent out yesterday return this morning; went up river al)Out 15 miles; .saw no game; but .say river is full of beaver, very shallow rapid stream, den.se growth on eacli side, ground swampy on each side. No. 2 scow launched to-day ; man who had permit for 200 galls, of whisky to Circle City called on me to-day ; told him same as I told his friend Weisner. Rained about 7 p.m. Another man tried to borrow n.' 1 1 /day. Monday, 24th May. — Rained idl night, wind from the .south, turned out fine. ' r veral people called to take a pattern of our scows. No. li .scow ready for caulking; rained in p.m., io" a few hours. In the evening the men built a huge bontire, toasted Her Majesty in a cup of hot tea, sang the national anthem, and gave three cheers and a tiger for Her ^Majesty. Tuesday, 25th May. — Fine day, strong south wind ; party of five sent out to gather pitch pine gum, rest of men making oars, sails, spars, etc., and caulking No. 3 .scow, three more men took dimensions of our stj . . Corps. Creen and Carter out hunting, but got nothing. Wedne.sday, 26th May. — Cloudy, wind frui^ south. No. 3 scow finished, all three rigged and laun<^hed in {).m. Large nrii 'jer o» boats ; i .sed down to-d.iy ; very great variety in style and make ,i boats bui.., one passed lown to-day 30 feet long by 4 feet H le. Several people have torn their boats to f>i<;ce8 and built similar scows to ours. Thursday, 27th May.— Packing jutfil, re.idj' to make a start to-morrow morinng. Large number of boats went down to-clay. Fine day, strong wind from south. We are the only ones who came up on the " Topeka who have got as far down as this. Friday, 28th ^lay. — Cloudy, but calm, very hot. no wind for fir t time in twenty days. Start from camp at 8 a.m., S. M. Davis .jid seven men in one scow, steered by Const. Carter, Staff-Sergt. Bates and six men in another steered by Const. Saunders, myself and six men in a third steered by Const. Good. An ex-policeman named Ross makes the twenty-second member of the party, he is travellinu' in with us. Lashed all three boats together at noon and lunched on board. S. M. Davis s boat is the cook boat. Al)Out tive miles down lake get a head wind. Got into Cariboo Crossing about 2 p.m., have had to row since we started (four oars to each scow, one man to an oar). Channt'ls very shallow and full of sand bars, ran .aground several times, to avoid this we should have kept close to the left bank in the left channel. Very shallow all through crossing, com- ing into " Lake Nares " find it very rough with strong head wind, have to go down to nearly end of lake before we can make landing, as shores on each side very shallov , Got into cam" about 4.30, boats all leaked a little to-day, good timber all the way down. Const. Sabourin off duty with sore eye. Saturday, 29th May. — Very hot day. Left at 8 a.m. ; mosquitoes bad lasc night. Out of Lake Nares into Tagish, where we fournl the water very shallow, especially along the north shore, pass that bugaboo of all travellers over this route, the " windy arm " and do not L'et a breath of wind ; very hard rowing in the hot sun, lunch on the lx)ats, supper at 5.30, after we make the turn of the lake, trolling all day, only got one fish, lost two spoons, nearly all had a swim at the supper camp. After supper start on again, cannot find a camping place, as it is too shallow to land untd we reach the foot of the lake, when we land under a small cut bank, lake only from two t three feet deep at this end. Made camp at about 11.30 p.m. Mosquitoes awful to-night. Smday, 30th May. — Raining this morning, left camp at 8 a.m., entrance to river very shallow and full of rocks pretty good current. Low flat country on each side, 8 mountains, away in the background, very swampy, country well wooded. About four miles down pass Tagish houses on east bank. There are five houses and a big shed, and several little houses, these latter are evidently burial places as they contain trunks with ashes in them, this tribe cremate their dead. The houses were well built, two being shingled, they contained all sorts of articles of a first-class quality, the place was deserted. One hou.se had the following sign on it : " Gon to Youkon for two year. White man leave alone. Sgd. Stevenson." Most of these Indians go down to the coast in the summer. At head of Lake Marsh, find a lot of people camped who saj' there is an ice jam down the lake. These people are camped on a swamp, so I decided to go down the lake farther. Go down the lake about 8 miles before a good wind, where I find a good camping place on east shore. Has been raining hard all day. .\bout 200 lioats are stopped at this end by the jam, two of party out hunting this a.m., saw nothing, we saw hundreds of wild fowl on the lake, but they were too wild. Sabourin better to-day, no mosquitoes to-night. All along these lakes the shores are shallow. Monday, 31st May. — Did not move out today. Four men out hunting, got one grouse ; cooks baking bread ; strong wind from south. Unloaded all the stuff to dry it out and reloaded boats again to-night. Have had fish net out every night and never caught anything. Tuesday, 1st June. — Fine day, wind from ."outh, m and was dashed 1 the rest safely, adiiig outfit with ff a whole corner had a horse and ing to pay duty s along the tiail, full of sunken ■ee times, but did he White Horse ?d them up on to ibout 300 yards, bhold along the than anything I else jumping from rock to rock. The chute is the worst part of the rapids. Made camp just below rapids. Two boats were wrecked attempting to shoot rapids, one man only slightly damaged his scow and wet his outfit, the other lost all his outfit, 500 or 600 lbs. and nearly lost his life, his boat was smashed to pieces. Two men took two boats down the rapids, making two trips and got through safely. These, T believe, are the only men who have run the rapids this year. They took 21 boats through the canon at I"). 00 a trip. Const. Donnelly slightly strained his ankle while lining scows down. River very muddy and full of small rapids, impossible to see the rocks. This is the only way to get through the canon, unless the boats are let go through alone, which is too much of a chance to take. Thursday, 3rd June. — Fine day, very warm. Pulled boats off the ice into the river again and were away by 10 o'clock. One party of men in a big scow whom we had helped at various times along the trail, sent a spokesman and presented me with a box of cigars for the party as a token of their gratitude for help rendered by our men. Lai-ge numbers of people camped at the White Horse. River below rapids very swift and full of boulders, iVrc, for about five miles ; current gets slacker and obstructions fewer. Stopped for noon below Tahkeena River, a wide river running into the Lewes, about 14 miles below White Horse. Indians told me Dalton has a trading post sixty miles up this river. Passed large number of bush fires in the last three day=, started by people leaving their camp fires alight. Head of Lake Lebarge at 6.39 ; camp on left bank of river : good camping place : unload boats and haul them out on beach. Mosquitoes very bad. Friday, 4th June. — Fine warm day. Re-pitching scows all day, loaded up boats ready to start in morning. Cooks baking bread. Put on three extra men. There is an Indian village about a mile across from the river, on Lake Lebarge, 'JOO Indians there in winter, all go hunting in suran)er. Chief of tribe very wealthy for an Indian, said to have about 82,000 worth of skins and furs. Traded some rations for ten good sized whitefish. Heard that man named Peterson, a big Swede whom Assistant Com- missioner will remember as helping Herron to pack at Dyea, came to grief in the cailon, and lost some of his outfit ; small boat passed down the rapids bottom up, no one reported lost as yet. Man named Uilkie informed me they had learned from Indians of the death of a white man on Marsh Lake, near the island. He understood them to intimate that the man had been shot. Indians took Gilkie to his grave, which had a rude head board cut from the stump of a ti'ee with the following inscription : — "Thompson, died 16th May, 1897," with the symbol of some order underneath. Indians said he belonged to party of six men fiom Nanaimo, who came up on the Mexico. Will inquire along road and report matters to Inspector Constantine. Four men out hunting to-day. Constable Donnelly to duty. Coiporal Green brought back a prairie chicken. Saturday, 5th June. — Fine day, wind from south. All up at 4 a.m., away at 5.10 ; moiith of river full of sandbars, middle channel correct one. Fair wind to Richtofen Island, nine miles, when wind dropped until we had rowed past islcnd, 3 miles, had lunch during calm. Strong wind came up then anil about 6 p.m. we made foot of lake and entered the river. Large fleet of boats on the lake, some put in on account of strong wind. Made supper camp two miles up river, sand bar across mouth. Good timber in patches all along lake. Two big valleys run north from left hand side of lake, Ogilvie and Richtofen. After supper made another twelve miles, where make night camp, very clear water, l)ut swift current and innumerable rocks, keeping us all our time dodging them. About 48 miles to-day. Trolled all day, caught no fish, lost nearly all our trolling spoons. Saw birch trees to-day. Mosquitoes very bad. Sinday, 6th June. — Fine day but cold, all up at 3.30 and away at 4.45, very bad water to mouth of Hootalinqua, current very swift, kept us all our time dodging rocks. About 9 a.m. saw two men on east bank who waved us into shore, we were on west side and in making crossing my boat was nearly wrecked, found that man named K— 2 i 10 Fitzgerald ar.d his partner had run on a rock and their boat smashed, they climbed on the rock and after two hours were taken oflF and landed by a passing l)oat, lost nearly all their stuff. Fitzgerald nearly told them of an empty boat them a frying pan and other a couple of sacks of provisions. lost lyinf his things on life, their boat was smashed to pieces , the bank up the river and gave They had saved their bedding and S. M. Davis's boat ran on a rock, no damage done, stopped at Indian camp, bought 16 tish (about 40 lbs.) for $2.50. We cannot catch fish ourselves, although we have tried every device ; nobody seems to, except the Indians. Heard Sullivan had been wrecked in the canon. Made Hootalinqua about 10 a.m., 16 miles from camp. Very wide river and very high, water muddy, making Lewes muddy and raising it to high water mark. This is the river running out of the Lake Teslin waters ; current very swift, but river free of boulders. Noon camp six miles below Hootalinqua, passed two men poling up the river ; 18 miles below Hoota- lintjua, on right bank, passed log cabin ; 13 miles farther on passed the Cassiar Bar. Great deal of placer mining done on this bar at one time, parties coming in intended to wash on it, but river was too high. Passed Big Salmon River, which comes from the east, seven miles farther on, Lewes widens out here considerably. Camped below river for supper; after supper made ten miles, hard to get good landing place, in trying to land the stove on cook boat, with camp kettles on it, was knocked overboard by boughs of trees, saved stove but lost camp kettles. Const, (iiaham nearly knocked overboard. Mosquitoes very bad all day, verj' hot day ; made 64 miles to-day. Current runs about 5 to 6 miles an hour. ^londay, 7tii June. — Fine day, very warm, mosquitoes bad ; up at 7, away at 8. Men wrecked yesterday came into our camp, had picked up more of 'their stuff, came down on borrowed boat ; they returned articles given to them. River still rising ; noon camp ten miles below Little Salmon River. Heavy wind in p. m., squally, river full of islands below Little Salmon. Camped on west bank one mile above Nor- denskiold river. Some log houi^es here, evidently traders' places, deserted now, pack trail well worn with horse manure, goes off in south-westerly direction Lots of Indians camped here at one time from Indian graves, drying stages, S:c. Passed some Indians on east bank. Mosquitoes, bull dogs and deer-Hies very bad to-day. Passed two or three more bush fires. Dr. Dawson's 1888 map has proved invaluable ; can tell every bend in the river. ^lade 73 miles to-day. Man told me to-day he had tried Cassiar bar and got good colours. Fitzgerald and partner came into our camp. Am writing, 12.30 a.m. Light as day. Took a photograph of camp ten minutes ago. Tuesday, June 8th. — Fine day. Mosquitoes awful. Took some of Fitzgerald's stuff on our boats for him. Left camp at 9 a.m. Passed Xordenskiold River at 9.30 a.m., comes in on left bank. Passed two more bush fires. Current getting swifter. About 12.30 came on Five Finger Rapids. Land on right bank and reconnoitre; decide that right channel is the best. Five bold, rocky islets or pillars of rock form five or six channels through which the water rushes. The left hand passage looks impassable. Had lunch and start out again. Got through with no trouble, keeping well to the right all the time. The channel should be entered from the right. The channel is 20 yards wide by about fifty long, and there is a fall of four feet at the entrance; water very rough. Five miles below, on taking a bend to the right see a reef of rocks right ahead of us stretching right across river, keeping right hand bank passed through rapids in almost smooth water. These are the Devil Rapids and un- less one knows of the channel to the right, are to my mind the worst on the river. Twenty miles below camped for supper; after supper went on until 1.30 a.m. ; camped near log house. Know we are close to Pelly. Log house here deserted. Little steamer called '' Pelly ■' run up in backwater here. Light as day all night. Heavy rain about 4 p.m. All soaked through. Came 78 miles to-day. Wednesday, June 9th. — Fine day. Left camp at 9 a.ni., and one mile down came to Pelly on south bank. Pelly River comes in from north. Stopped here. Trading post here owned by one Harper ; man named Pitt in charge. English Church mission here also, has been deserted for two years. There has been no steamer up as far as this for *xa 11 d, they climbed on ig boat, lost nearly smashed to pieces ' river and gave heir bedding and ' rock, no damage ^2.50. We cannot ems to, except the Hootalinqua about r muddy, making running out of the Noon camp six niles below Hoota- I the Cassiar Bar. >ining in intended vhich comes from • Camped below ? place, in trying ;ned on the 24th May. likely to be party who were with Thompson. Their names are Chas. Denning, John ^lellish, David Taylor, William Biggs and William Seaborne. Pitt says he heard Thompson was accidentally shot by one of the party. No sign of ruins of old Fort Selkirk. Log house at last night's camp was trading post established by Healy, but abandoned by him. Passed two men poling up river. Man named Dey going out with American mail, told us C)gilvie was two miles behind him on his road to Pelly and was on the lookout for us. About ten miles down came to his camp. Stopped here. Gave Mr. Ogilvie his mail. Tells me he is going to complete some survey at Pelly and then coming back to Dawson. Gave us wonderful accounts of Klouilike diggings. River very swift from Pelly down. Came 50 miles to-day. Thursday. June 10th. — Left camp at 4 a.m., Ogilvie not up, 50 miles down at 11 a.m., passed White River, 3 miles below came on large Indian camp, bought about 00 or 70 pounds of fresh moose meat for $6. Passed 60 mile post at about 5 p.m., delivered son.omail there. Post is on south side of an island right opposite Sixty Mile Creek and is very hard to make as current sweeps one right across, river still rising, is full of islands, very wide and swift current, supper camp about 5.30, 22J miles below Sixty Mile, come to Indian river, large number of men camped here, came to Klondike City at 2 a. m., right bank should be kept to make landing at the town, as the river is very swift here, and current would carry one away below if on left bank. Made 125 miles to-day, all very tirefl, ver\- cold during night. Friday, June 1 1th. — Fine day, very warm, let men sleep in, crossed to Dawson City after lunch, delivered Klondike mail, saw Mr. D. W. Davis and delivered letters to him. Mule came in this morning with 75 lbs. of gold on its back from diggings (813,000.00). Wages here are from 810 to 815 a day. Reported that party of live are lost, 2 women and 3 men, should have been in long ago. Const. Gowler here on pass, gave him permission to come down with me in morning. People anxiously waiting for Gold Commissioner. Hear that Thompson was accidentally shot by one of the party, who reported himself to Inspector Constantine immediately on arrival. It occurred as follows : Party were on ice in Marsh Lake with their boat on sletls, they broke through the ice and had to get their boat off the sleds. After they were all on board and the partv were over hauling their outfit, one of them ttX)k his revolver from the sled and thinking it empty commenced to snap it, there was, one cartridge, and this exploded, striking Thompson in the stomach and fatally wounding him. He died at 3 oclock the next morning. People seemed very glad to see us coming in. Was offeretl from S60.00 to $100.00 for a piece of moose purchased yesterday. Man drowned in Miles Cafion in early part of year while coming down on the ice, he was partially snow blind and went through a crack in the ice before his partners could warn him. Man who was camped about 3 miles above us on Bennett, has never been heard of since he stopped to dinner with us one day on Bennett, his tent and outtit remain there untouched. I have heard from parties who came down since. Hundreds of people here, money very plen- tiful, gold dust is the medium of exchange. Saturday, 12th June. — Left Klondike at 8 a.m., taking Constable (Jowler and two men who wished to get down to Forty Mile. Uame into Fort Constantine and reported to Inspector Constantine at 5.30 p.m. and handed party over in the best of health and condition. The N. C. O's and men of the party, one and all, have never shown a sign of grumlv ling at the work however severe, and have worked hard and cheerfully always, their conluct has been of the l^st and they won everybody's good-will by their readiness to help other travellers in their spare time. S. M. Davis has proved invaluable, and I cannot speak too highly of him. 12 I have the honour to be, sir, Your obedient servant, W. H. SCARTH, Inspector. il, and although the king cases. I heard 't if so, it was kept this route is unsur- ;he trip was over. ^ant. SCARTH, Inspector. ^7^J^ *"J;i'**.i