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Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre fi!m6s d des taux de reduction differents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour Atre reproduix en un seul clich6, il est filmd d partir de Tangle sup6rieur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'Images ndcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 « 5 3 --^*' I .1 I.I.«|||BJII«PW A JOURNEY BEYOND THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS ■■••■/i IN 1835, 1836, AND 1837. BY THE REV. SAMUEL PARKER, A.M. CORRECTED AND EXTENDED IN THE PRESENT EDITION. •.#•" 11 8 a(l(.>, ' )U11- . for- ting I rtib- I Biid i ; an } tlie rc- I 111(1 I ba- ' Uie igs icn "cli ^11 iri- ted r a of \ us j \)r ;ey \ ill ed It i.a !?; 1 ■.,:■.: EDINBURGH: PUBLISHED BY WILLIAM AND ROBERT CHAMBERS. 184L ^..^gi^i^^S^iiiii r^3 "ei 1^ J.^N %\ ADVERTISEMENT TO THE PRESENT EDITION. Tm: .Toiu-niil nf Jrr I'nrlicr, originally produced in the United States (Ithaca, New York, IfVif)), seemed to the present PuWishera to contain so iniicli interesting and vaUiablo matter, as to bo wortliy of being laid before the piil)lio of this coinitrv. As was justly observed, however, in the Xiirth American Kcview, the work had defects both r.s regarded " method and literary cxccntion." ^Moreover, as the same autliority, an impartial one in all respects, remarked, Sir I'ai'ker had " marred the value of his geographical and geological details by mixing up with them sundry inaccurate and supcrfieial speculations of his own, concerning the general doctrine of the history of the globe's fomiation," and other jioints. In tlie present edition, pains have been talien to remove these blemishes. The inaccuracies of language have been rectified, a number of needless cxelamatidiis modified or deleted, and the crude disquisitions upon geology, in which the author had most imnecessarily indulged, have been, as far as was possilile, expunged from the work. As hero given, tho Publishers conceive that it will be held a useful and agreeable addition to the literature of the day. In tho preface that follows, the progress of discovery in tho interior of Nort); America, previously to the time cf Jlr Tarkcr, has been brielly detailed, with tho view of rendering the work more complete. Thk vast portion lyiiis between the shores of the Pacil ffithin the last thii to have been open till the conclusion tish and French ir fortmiately for th According to the powers at Paris in Britain should be 1 North America to north and west of IS the Hudson's Bi itself into the interi immediate results British and Anglo tory journeys into iiiou of Britain, an of the Rocky Mou explorers was Jor American officer, in the Canadian w ivest and north-w two years and flv( Boston in Octobei he River St Frant edge, for the first ind customs of tli ic .adjacent to th- ereat river IMississ •ewardcd for his la Icscriptive of his jf science, howevc Carver had mere! ivorld that lands, lay west of the ]Vi rich one for the di scribed the geners :>}' the name of thi jf tliese mountain [uture Columbuse lakes and countric ries of life ; and," luence of his Anf fenerations may f ;heir country by :eligious persecui •cmedy the incon' lant increase of in )y these, or allur ages, there is lit )e fully gratified ii The disposition cnown, which lu nanner of supers brce in regard to ind it is not to be rcr, bearing with sromisc of both ■hould have speed * These lie nearly i lio Canadian and Ur Pacific, and give orig le mentioned tho Col inako River, tho PI rith nimiberlcss otln lent Btreanis. The ! 8tU to tho 54th degri lorth-west to the sou crritories in the lattc EDITORS' PREFACE. Tiii: vast portion of the Nortli American continent, lyiiiff between the valley of the Mississippi and the ihores of the Pacific, was almost aii unkno^vn land till (irithin the last thirty or forty years, and cannot be said to have been opened to the investigation of travellers till the conclusion of the war waged between the Bri- tish and French in Canada, in which the former were, fortiuiately for the cause of civilisation, victorious. According to the treaty between the late belligerent powers at Paris in 1763, it was determined that Great Britain should be held possessor " of the north-west of North America to the Mississippi, and of the country north and west of the sources of the Mississippi, so far as the Hudson's Bay Company might be able to stretch itself into theinterior of the continent." Oneof the more immediate results of the treaty was, that numbers of British and Anglo-American travellers made explora- tory journeys into the territories so ceded to the domi- nion of Britain, and which included, in part, the region of the Rocky Mountains. One of the earliest of these explorers was Jonathan Carver. He was an Anglo- A.merican officer, who had served the mother country in the Canadian wars, and started from Boston for the irest and north-west in June 1776. After a tour of two years and five months' duration, he returned to Boston in October 1778, having gone as far west as he River St Francis, and having acquired some knoAv- edge, for the first time or nearly so, of the " manners md customs of the Indians inhabiting the lands that ie adjacent to the heads and to the westward of the jreat river Mississippi." On visiting England, he was •ewardcd for his labours, and published a small volume ieseriptive of his discoveries. Being neither a man jf science, however, nor of great natural capabilities. Carver had merely the merit of telling the civilised world that lands, extensive, cultivable, and populous, ay west of the Mississippi, and that the field was a •ich one for the display of future enterprise. He de- scriljed the general course of that vast chain, known oy the name of tlie Rocky Mountains.* " To the west rf these mountains," says Carver, "when explored by \iture Columbuses and Raleighs, may be found other akes and countries, full fraught with all the neccssa- ies of life ; and," he proceeds to say, under the in- luence of his Anglo-American origin, " where future" generations may find an asylum, whether driven from :heir country by the ravages of lawless tj'rants, by :eligious persecutions, or reluctantly leaving it to •cmedy the inconveniences arising from a superabun- iant increase of inhabitants ; whether, I say, impelled )y these, or allured by hopes of commercial advan- ages, there is little doubt but their cxpecitation will )e fully gratified in these rich and unexhausted climes." The disposition to dive into the mysterious and un- cnown, which has led man so often to commit all manner of superstitious follies, operates \nth equal brce in regard to the physical secrets of the globe ; md it is not to bo wondered at that the hints of Car- eer, bearing with them, as they did, the additional promise of both national and personal advantage, 'hould have speedily stimulated others to enter upon * These lie nearly in the centre of tho great expanse between ho Canadian nnd United States territories and the sliores of the ?ncific, and give origin to many hirge rivers, among whicii may !0 mentioned the Colorado of tho West, the Arkansas, tho Groat inako River, tho Platte, tho Yellowstone, and tho i"M.>isoiu'i, lith numberless othera, forming either tributaries or Indepen- lent Btrenms. The Rocky JNIountalns extend nearly from tho 8th to tho 64th degree of north latitude, and stretch from the lorth-wcst to tho south-cast, ontorliig tho centre of the Mexican crritoricB iu tho latter airoution. the same track pursued by him. Jlr Jefferson seems to have been one party peculiarly anxious to follow up the course of north-western discovery in America. He suggested a tour of this description to Jolm Led- yard, the famous New England traveller, but the plan required the consent of Catherine of Russia. Ledyard went, in consequence, to St Petersburg, and, after being buoyed up by promises of the most flattering kind, set out on his journey for the Russian colonies at Behring's Straits, whence he proposed to penetrate through North America to the United States. The empress, however, changed her mind. Poor Ledyard Avas seized on his route, and brought back in custody to Poland, where he was liberated, and left to pursue those other adventures in which he afterwards won reputation and met a premature death. The next attempt to pass the Rocky Mountains was made by Mr (afterwards Sir) Alexander Mackenzie, in the year 1792. Under the ausj)ices of the Hudson's Bay Company, then combined with the North- West Company, JMacken/.ic, who had been a clerk in tlie head office of the copartnery at Montreal, undertook a journey, in the first place, to the sliores of tlie Arctic Sea, in order to advance the trading interests of his employers among tho Indians. From Fort Chepe- wyan, in latitude 58 degrees 40 minutes, on the Lake of the Hills, he set out in June 1789, and passing along Slave Lake and Mackenzie River, readied the nortli^ru seas, in latitude C9 il.grees, thus making a discoverj" of great importance to the question of the north-west passage. After his return to Fort Cliepe- wyan, he set out on a new journey (in 1792) to tlie |! westward, and crossing the Rocky Mountains in lati- ^1 tude 54 degrees, met with the Tacoutche Tesse and Salmon Rivers, by the aid of which, in part, he reached the Pacific Ocean near King's Island, in latitude 52 degrees. He returned by the same route to Fort Che- pewyan. With the maps before us, which were founded on such discoveries as these, Ave are apt to undervalue the amount of information resulting from them. In reality, however, theyAvere of the highest consequence. Mackenzie Avas the first Avho distinctly showed that the transit across the Rocky Mountains was practi- cable I or, in other Avords, th.it it was possible to pass from the Atlantic to the Pacific in this part of the Noav World. A great increase of internal trade Avas the re- sult, and, moreoA'er, confidence was given to the suc- ceeding traA'cUers Avho adA'entured on the same course, and Avlio have filled up the outline presented to them by their predccesso»s. The next expedition Avhich thrcAv light upon the geo- graphy and inhabitants of the precincts of the Rocky Mountains, Avas one more important, by far, than any of the preceding ones. It Avas that of LcAvis and Clarke in 1804. Mr Jefferson, Avho had never ceased to entertain an anxiety on this subject, Avas the sug- gester of the tour, and the parties Avhom he employed in it Avere officers of tlie United States. Captains LcAvis and Clarke made their preparations on the Wood River, o]iposite the mouth of the ]\Iissouri, and their first object Avas to explore the course of that stream. They spent a year upon that task, tracing the stream to its source ; and, in August 1805, they prepared to cross the Rocky Mountains, and reach the Pacific by means of the Columbia River, a great stream pre- viously discovered, or mentioned, by Vancouver and other naval explorers of the Avestern coast of North America. After making many important geographical observations respecting the rivers of the country and its gcucrol features, the party reached the Columbia, ado, )U11- ifor- ting mh- gist rty, and I an the ro- and ge.s ba- the igs len Tvh •Ull Ti- led r a of lis 'or ey iu ed lit a Kl i: J EDITORS' PREFACE. passed down to its mouth, . iid wintered there (1805- 1806). Dividing into two hands on their return in the following spriiiff, tlioy examined the Yellowstone and other rivers, and finally reaehed the United States in safetj', in September 1806, having explored many thousand miles of eountry, and made most important additions to American geograjjhy. These great points in the outline of the picture being completed, and the range of the Kocky Mountains, With the streams flowing from them, being observed and described, succeeding adventurers stept in to extend and make use of the knowledge already ac- quired. It being decisively ascertained that the Pacific was accessible at mapy points from the eastern districts of North America, Mr John Jacob Astor, a naturalised citizen of the United States, conceived and carried into execution a great trading project, of which Washington Irving has favoured the world with an admirable account, in his work called Astoria. Mr Astor's scheme consisted in planting a line of trading posts along the Missouri and Columbia, to the mouth of the latter, which was to be the chief mart of the trade, and where Port Astoria was in consequence built. Furs and peltries were to be collected in the interior at the scattered posts, and to be conveyed to Canton for sale, whence the rich goods of the east were to be returned to the United States in exchange. It was proposed, in fact, to concentrate .ill the Pacific trade at the mouth of the Columbia. The scheme was altogether a magnificent one, and merits to be noticed in detail. Mr Irving's book sujjplies the means for our doing so. The first step in the enterprise taken by Mr Astor, was to dispatch a vessel, the Tonquin, by sea, under the command of Jonathan Thorn, an upright and active man, but unfortunately of an unbending and somewhat irritable disposition. An annising account of the vojage, which began in September 1808, is given by Mr Irving, and a narrative of the planting of Fort Aistoria succeeds. Steering northwards, the Tonquin now proceeded to Vancouver's Island, and there, in consequence of an atf'ront given by the com- mander to one of the native chiefs, an onslaught was made upon the vessel by the savages, and the whole crew were murdered, with the single exception of an Indian interpreter, who by chance survived, and made his escape to Astoria to tell the melancholy tale. The loss of the Tonquin was a grievous blow to the infant estal)lishment, and one that threatened to bring with it a train of disasters. The intelligence of the loss was not received in New York till many months after- wards. It was felt in all its force by Mr Astor, who was aware that it nnist cripple, if not entirely defeat, the great object of his ambition : he indulged, however, in no weak and vain lamentation, but sought to devise a prompt and efficient remedj'. In 1810, the party destined for the settlement of the viirious inland posts, set out under the charge of Mr Hunt, one of the partners in the concern. This gentleman had taken care to secure the services of a number of voyageurs and coiireurs des bois (scourers of the woods), a very remarkable class of persons, by means of whom the trade with the Indiiins had been long maintained. "These men," says Mr Irving, " would set out from ^Montreal with canoes well stocked with goods, with arms and ammunition, and would make their way up the mazy and wandering rivers that interlace the vast forests of the Canadas, coasting the most remote lakes, and creating new wants and habitudes among the natives. Sometimes they so- journed for months among them, assimilating to their tastes and habits with the happy facility of Frenchmen : adopting in some degree the Indian dress, and not un- frequently taking to themselves Indian wives. Twelve, fifteen, eighteen months, would often elapse withotit any tidings of thcin, when they would come sweeping their way doAvn the Ottawa in full glee, their canoes laden down with packs of beaver skins ; and now came their turn for revelry and extravagance." The kindred class of voyageurs, who also sprang out of the fur trade, form a fraternity who are employed as carriers and assistants in long internal expeditions of travel and traflfic, proceeding by means of boats and canoes on the rivers and lakes. " Their dress is generally half-civilised half- savage. Thej* wear a capot or sur- coat made of a olanket, a striped cotton shirt, clotli trousers or leathern leggins, moccasins of deer-skin, and a belt of variegated worsted, fnnn which are sus- pended the knife, tobacco pouch, and other implements. Their language is of the same piebald character, being a French patois, embroidered with Indian and English words and phrases. The lives of the voyageurs are passed in wild and extensive roving.s, in the service of individuals, but more especially of the fur traders. They are generally of French descent, and inherit much of the gaiety and lightness of heart of their an- cestors, being full of anecdote and song, and ever ready for the dance." Of these hardy and erratic classes of beings, Mr Hunt hired a sufficient number for present purposes, at Montreal, and having laid in a supply of ammuni- tion, provisions, and goods for the Indians, embarked the wliole on board a Large canoe, measuring between tliirty and forty feet in length, constrrcted of birch bark, sewed with fibres of the roots of the spruce-tree, and daubed with resin instead of tar. The party took their way up the OttawaPiver, and in due time arrived at ^Mackinaw, an old French trading post, situated on an island of the same name, at the confluence of Lakes Huron and Michigan. At this place, in which the traders and trappers belonging to the Mackinaw com- pany usually centred, from their expeditions abo'ut Pake Superior, the Arkansas, Missouri, and other regions of the west, ^Ir Hunt engaged additional assistants ; and the party, thus augmented, proceeded onwards to St Louis, on the Mississippi, where the complement of hands was completed. t)n the 21st of October 1810, we behold the final departure of the expedition from the abodes of civilised man. The party was distributed in three boats, of different sizes, under the sujjrcme command of Mr Hunt, and the subordinate direction of two or three fellow-partncis of tlie concern. In this way did the party set out from St Louis, to explore the country as far as tlie shores of the Pacific, a distance of several thousands of miles, and through territories inhabited by Sioux, Plackfeet, and other malignant races of Indians, who waged an incessant and treacherous war with the whites. Soon after departing from St Louis, the boats reached tlie mouth of the JMissouri. In the month of April 1811, the encampment was broken up, and the party, now consisting of nearly sixty persons, embarked in four boats on the ilissouvi, the largest boat being mounted with a swivel and two howitzers. The early stages of the voyage up the mighty Missouri were exceedingly pleasant. During the day, the boats were carried forward by a strong wind impelling the sails, or the oars were merrily plied by the expert voyageurs, to the music of their old French chansons. " Encamping at night on some beautiful bank, beneath spreading trees, which afforded shelter and fuel, the tents were pitched, the fires made, and the meals jirepared round the evening fire. All were asleep at an early hour; some lying under the tents, others wrapped in blankets before the fire or beneath the trees, and some few in the boats, moored to the margin of the stream." Our narroAv limits do not permit us to recount the adventures which were encountered by this roving band of hunters and traders. Suffice it to say, that they met with various parties of Indians, by whom they were considerably annoyed, and occasionally robbed. With one of the tril)es, Mr Hunt exchanged his boats for horses, intending to proceed the re- mainder of the journey by land. The contemplation of the prospect of the land journey struck a chill into EDITORS* PREFACE. 8 c kindred f tlie fur s carriirs of travtl nd canoes Rcnerally )<)t or sur- lirt, eli)th deer-skin, h are sus- iplenients. cter, beiuK id Englisli igeurs are '. service of ir traders, nd inlierit f their an- ever ready leings, Mr ; purposi's, f aniniuni- , embarked ig between ;d of bireh pruce-tree, party took ime arrived situated on ce of Lakes wliieli tlie kinaw coni- :ions alio'ut and other additional I, proceeded , where tlie the 21st of ture of the man. Tiie ferent sizes, and tlie partners let out from tlie shores ids of miles, IJlackfeet, waged an litcs. ^oon cached the pmcnt was of nearly 10 ^lissouri, el and two igc lip the During )y a strong re merrily sic of their ht on some ich afforded fires made, ■; fire. All under the the fire or ats, moored •ccouiit the this roving say, that by whom ccasionally exchanged ed the re- itemplatioii a chill into the hearts of a number of the party. The wilderness they were about to enter " was a region almost as vast and trackless as the ocean," and, at the time of which wo treat, but little known, oxcejiting through the vague accounts of Indian hunters. A part of their route would lie across an immense tract, stretching north and south for himdreds of miles along the foot of the Hocky ^lountains, and drained by the tributary streams of the ^Missouri and the ^lississippi. The journey of Mr Hunt and his party over this trackless desert was exceedingly distressing. All the horses except one were stolen by the Indians; andjn'o- visions at last failing, the pangs of hunger were added to the miseries which had to be endured. Sometimes halting at favourable spots to recruit the strengthof the weakest of the party, and again making an effort to penetrate the rugged defiles of the Hocky Mountains, now covered with deep snows, the wanderers at length attained the western declivity of this high-lying region. Here they were still disappointed of finding any living animals, which they might slaughter for food. All traces of game had disappeared, and the dispirited party, hardly able to crawl, subsisted for a time on strips of beaver skins broiled on a fire kindled for the purpose. After having spent twenty-one daj's of ex- treme toil and sufl'ering, in penetrating the mountain passes from their eastern barrier, they arrived at a tributary stream of the Columbia. This, the first sight of water fiowing in a westerly direction, was hailed with a joy it is impossible to describe. "With the assistance of some friendly Indians, they procured a couple of canoes, in which they pleasantly dropped down the stream, and in a few days arrived at their place of destination, Astoria, haggard in their appear- ance, and, it seems, perfectly in rags. Of course, the whole party — or rather its remnants, for several had parted comiiany by the way — were received with every demonstration of joy and friendship by the band of adventurers at Astoria. The distance which the party had travelled from St Louis was upwards of .3500 miles, a wide circuit having been made to avoid cer- tain districts inhabited by dangerous tribes of savages ; and the time occupied in the journey was nearly eleven months. Most unfortunately for ^Ir Astor and the other part- ners of the company, neither this nor several subse- quent expeditions were of any practical benefit. The loss of the Tonquiu was a disaster which was never altogether recovered; and some ulterior errors of judgment, in not implicitly obeying 'Mv Astor's in- structions, jiroved to lie equally ruinous. The break- ing out of the war betwixt Great Britain and the United States was the final blow given to the con- cern. Fort Astoria fell into the hands of the British ; and the American Fur Company thereupon partially breaking up, the trade in peltries was forthwith en- grossed by the North-^\''est Company and other asso- ciations. The North-West Company of fur traders, however, did not long remain lords of the Kocky Mountains. They had had a fierce competition to maintain with the Hudson's Bay Company, and, in 1821, the hall-ruined partners of the former body gave way before their opponents, and were glad to make a compromise, by which the relics of their establishment were merged in the rival one. The Hudson's Bay Company did not make anj' additions to (mr knowledge of the geography and peculiarities of the Rocky Mountains. The first person who published fresh matter on the subject was a private American gentleman. Major Joshua Pilcher, who had engaged in the inland fur trade. His expedi- tion took place in 1827. In 183.'5, Jlr H. J. Kelley, another American gentleman, also visited and crosseil the Roclty Mountains ; but, as in the case of Major Pil- cher, his object was entirely of a commercial character. The memoirs pul)lislied by them contained valuable information of a practical kind, but were of less im- portftiicu in a general point of view, though still throw- ing light on the courses of the Columbia, Colorado, and other large rivers, arising from the Rocky !Moim- tains. Mr Irving's narrative embodies all tlie infor- mation resulting from these exjieditioiis. A much more interesting work, howivor, respecting the interior of Xorth America, was aftcrwarcls jmb- lished by Mr Townsend, an enthusiastic ornithologist of the United States, who accompanied a trading jiarty, headed byCa])tiiin Wj-eth, to theColunil)ia River and the adjacent districts. The party intended to form an establishment in the far west, in connexion with the Columbia Fishing and Trading Com])any. Tlicy re- paired to St Louis on the .Missouri, in March ls;!4, and soon after wore ready for the route. Some i>avsageri are worth quoting, for the insight given into the cha- racter of the country and its inhabitants. On the 28th of April, at ten o'clock in the morning, idl things being jireparcd, the caravan, consisting of seventy ineii and two hundred and fifrj- horses, began its march towards the west. All were in high spirits, and full of hope of adventui'e; uproarious bursts of merri- ment, and gay and lively songs, constantly echoed along the line of the cav;dcade. The road lay over a vast rolling jn-airie, with occasional small spots of timber at the distance of several miles apart, and this was expected to be the complexion of the track for some weeks. For the first day and night the journey was agreeable, but on the second day a heavy rain fell, wliich made the ground wet and mudd\', soaked the blanket bedding, and rendered camping at night any thing but pleasant. Proceeding (mwards, the party passed through .a friendly tribe of Kaw Indians, with whom they traded a little. Some parts of the prairies are described by !Mr Townsend as beautiful : — " The little streams are fringed with a thick growth of pretty trees and bushes, and the buds are now swelling, and the leaves expand- ing, to ' welcome back the spring.' The birds, too, sing joyously amongst them — grosl)eaks, thrushes, and buntings — a merry and musical band. I am particu- larly fond of sallying out early in the morning, and strolling fround the camp. The light breeze just bends the tall tops of the grass on the boundless prairie, the birds are coinmencing their matin caroUings, and all nature looks fresh and beautiful. The horses of the camp .are lying comfortably on .their sides, and seem, by the glances which they give me in passing, to know that their hour of toil is approaching, and the patient kine are ruminating in happy unconsciousness." Having reached the Platte River in ^lay, and passed it, the party arrived at a remarkable jilatforni of sandy desert ground, of immense extent, and occupying the central region of the continent, in about latitude 42 degrees north, and longitude from 100 to 10.) degrees west of Greenwich. In this region, scarcely any thing of a living kind, either animal or vegetable, is to be seen, with the exception of swarms of ferocious gnats, which torment the traveller beyond endurance. It is necessary, however, to pursue a route in this direction, in order to iind accessible passes through the Rocky Mountains, which are impenetrable more to the north- west. Making the best of their way over the inhos- ])itablc desert, and fortunately escaping any roving liands of unfriendly Indians, the cavalcade struck through a range of stony mountains, called the Black Hills, and in a few days afterwards came in sight of the Wind River mountains, which form the loftiest land in the northern continent, and are at all times covered M'ith snow of dazzlmg whiteness. From the great height above the level of the sea which the party had attained, the climate was found to be cold, even al- though in summer ; the plains were covered only by the scantiest herbage, and frequently there was great difl[lculty in obtaining a supply of water for the camp. The painfulness of tlie journey, therefore, was now extreme, both for man and beast. In June, the party crossed the Green River, or Colo- rado of the west, and encamped upon it for a short n. PREFACE— CONTENTS. time, proving onwards, they reaclied and crossed the Bocky Mountains, and came upon Snake River, a noble tributary of tlie Cohimbia. The Indians of this remote rejjion of tlie far west, are, with tlie exception of tlie Blackfeet and their hereditary foes tlie I5an- necks, penerally more simple and docile than the trilics nearer the settlements, a circumstance ai)i)arcntly aris- ing from their extreme poverty, and the difTiculty of procuring siifficient sustenance. Wolves, i)rowling around tlie camp at niplit, formed the {^rcat annoj'ance of the part}- in this rcgio!i; but the travellers, after havinj? separated into various de- tached parties for the purposes of the expedition, at length reached the noble stream of the Columbia, or Oregon, which gave them emotions not unlike those of Bruce on discovering the Nile, or I'ai-k at the first glimpse of the Niger. Proceeding down to its moutii, they attempted, though with but sliglit success, to fulfil the ulterior trading objects of their journey, and Mr Townsend, with a rich store of ol)jects of natural history, returned, by way of the Sandwich Isles, to his home in the United States. This brief account of the expeditions to the western and inland districts of North America, will prepare the reader, in some meastire, for understanding and appreciating the narrative of Mr I'arker, here re- printed. Though in some points faulty, as elsewhere alluded to, it seemed to the present publishers to con- tain much valuable and pleasing information regarding a region of great interest, and relative more particu- larly to the tleld of enterprise offered to the Christian missionary in the countries of the " Tar West." CONTENTS. Pago Conunencement of the Journey.— Towns on the Ohio ami Mississippi, Voyage up the Missouri. — Fiu: Company's Caravan, Tribes on the Missouri. — Life in the Prairies, . - - Buffalo Dance.— Grizzly Bears. — Geology, ... Indian Tribes. — Profligiicy of the American Hunters, Trois Tetons. — Fight of Pierre's Hole. — Desire of the Indians for Religious Instruction, ..... Journey over the Salmon River Mountains. — Arrival at Fort WiUla-WaUa, Hudson's Bay Company. — Cayuse Indians, ... Fort Voncouver. — Departure for Astoria or Fort George, - Fort George. — Mouth of the Columbia.— Pacific Oceiin, - Review of Journey. — Voyage up the Willamette. — Methodist Mission, ......... Obstacles to Christianity. — Description of Vancouver Fur and Forming Fstablishmcnt. — Hardships of a Hunter's Life, Page Induui Population. — Diseases. — 5Iort.ality. — Rescmblnnco between Indian and Jewish Customs, - . - 43 The various Animals beyond the Rocky Mountains, - 4^ Fish. — A'cgetation. — Soil and Climate, .... 47 Character and Condition of the Indians of tho Plains, - 40 The Indians of tlio Lower Coimtry, .')- Numbers of the Indian Tribes, 55 Departure for tho ITppor Countrj'. — Arrival at 'Walla- Walla, ."i? Paloose Indians. — P.ivilion River. — ^Fort Colvillo, - 01 The Ncz Perce Countrj-. — Industry of the Indians. — Colville, ft) Indians of the Upper Countrj-. — Journey from Walla- Walla to Fort Vancouver, (iO Gencr.ll Remarks. — Omithologj-, ..... 09 Sandwich Islands. — Description of Oaliu. — Jlissionary Suc- cess, 71 Homeward Voj-.ngc. — Society Island."!. — A.rrival at New Lon- don.— Conclusion, ....•■• 75 to its moutli, it SUC'CC'SH, to journey, and cts of natural .'h Isles, to his :o the western , will prepiiro •staiuliiif? and ■ker, here re- , as elsewhere iishers to eon- tion regarding more particu- tlie Cliristian r West." Pnge ttesemblnnce . 43 lins, 4-1 . 47 lains, - 40 . ri-2 ■ 5". 'alla-AValln, r>7 ') (51 3.— Colvillc, ft) rt'aUa-Walla . m . 09 lioiiary Suc- - 71 t NcwLon- ■ ■ 73 PARKER'S JOURNEY. COMMENCrMENT OP THE JOTJnNEY.-TOWNS OX THE OHIO AND MlSSISSIPl'I. The wide extent of country heyond tlie ^lississippi and the liocky Momitains, with its inhabitants and phj-sical condition, has been a subject of interesting inquiry for the last thirty years. Many things re- lating to the possession of the country, its future pro- biible importance in a political view, its population and trade, have occupied much attention. The public have not been inattentive to the interests, moral and religious, of those placed in these remote regions, and who are without tlie blessings of civilisation and Cliris- tianitj\ The American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, appointed an exploring mission to that country, to ascertain, by personal observation, the condition and character of the Indian nations and tribes, and the facilities for introducing the gospel and civilisation among them ; and upon this expedition I was selected to proceed. Tliat difficulties and dangers would be incident to •a journey through a country of such extent, xuiinlia- bited except by wandering bands of Indians, wliere no provisions could be obtained besides uncertain game, could not be doubted. It was not a conscious- ness of imdaunted courage, or IndifTerence to suffering, or the love of romance, wliich fixed my purpose ; but it was tlie importance of the object on which I shoidd require to be engaged. It was a trial to leave my family, not knowing what might occur during my absence ; but when the time came for the eonmience- ment of my journey, I committed myself to divine pro- tection, and, with as cheerful a mind as could be assumed, set forth on the journey. I departed from Ithaca, state of New York, on the 14th of March 1835. The next day, which was the sabbath, was spent at Geneva ; and the following day, continuing my journey, I proceeded by way of Buffalo to Erie, Avliere I arrived on the 19th. Erie is a verj' pleasant village, of considerable busi- ness, situated upon the soutli shore of the lake of the same name. It has a good liarboiu- for steam-boats, which pass up and down the lake, and for the accoui- modation of which wliarfs have been built at very con- siderable expense. The country around is fertile, and pi-escnts much agricultural promise. On the JOth, took stage for Pittsburg, which is 120 miles south; and on the morning of the next day breakfasted at Meadville, a very pleasant inland village, situated near French Creek, forty miles south of Erie. Here is a court- house, and a college of which the Eev. T. Alden, DD., was the first president, and took a very active part in its establishment. The college edifice is situated upon jin eminence facing the south, and commanding a fine prospect. There are also in this village two churches, and several other public buildings. From this place to Mercer the roads were v^xtremely bad, on account of the depth of the mud ; bat the difficulties were over- come by the usual methods of profuse Avhipping, un- loading the vehicle, and applying rails to the wheels : at length we arrived, late in the night, at Mercer, where we got an opportunity for a little rest, which was very accei)tablc, having liad only one niglit's rest out of seven. Here I remained till Tuesdas morning, when I again took the stage, and after passing tlirougli Centreville and Butler, both small pleasant villages, arrived at Pittsburg on tlie 2,jth. Pittsburg is situated at tlie conlhicnce of the Alle- ghany and Monongahela Kivers, IHJi) miles aliove tlie moutli of the Oliio River. Its location is judiciously chosen. The country around, agreealtly diversified with hills and valleys, together witii meadows and bluflTs wliich skirt tlie rivers, adds much to its cliarms. In point of manufactures, pojiulation, and wealtli, very few places in tlie valley of tlie Mississii)pi eijual this in importance. Among its manufactories are many large iron-foundries, rolling-mills, and nail factories ; also large establishments of glass-works, in some of which is manufactured flint-glass of an excellent (lua- lity and good workmanship. The materials for making this are uncommonly good. The best of granular quartz, of loose texture, is obtained from a location some little distance up the Alleghany Kiver, where there are inexhaustible quantities. It is more purely white than is often found. On this account, this place has an important advantage over most others for manu- facturing the above-named article. There are also several large cotton, and many other factories, of vari- ous character. There are such immense quantities of excellent pit-coal about this place, that there is no I'cason to fear it will ever be exhausted or become expensive. The city is well built ; but has rather a gloomy appearance, caused by the smoke of the bitu- minous coal so much iised in the factories and dwell- ings. While Lowell is the Manchester, Pittsburg is the Birmingham, of America. There are in this city thirteen houses of worship, and many public institutions for literature, justice, and commerce. With the name of Pittslnirg will always be associated Braddock's defeat, which took place when he was sent to take possession of Fort l)u- quesne ; and with this event will also be associated the skill and prudence of AVashington in conducting the retreat. Towards the evening of the day of my arrival here, took passage in the steam-boat Ohioan for Cin- cinnati, 455 miles from Pittsburg by the river, and calmly descended the Ohio, which winds its way through a fertile country, diversified with forests, cultivated fields, and flourishing villages. On the morning of the 26th, stopped at Wheeling, nuiety-two miles below Pittsburg, situated on the south side of the river, upon elevated ground, surrounded by high and steep hills. The great Cumberland road crosses the Ohio here by a ferry. Cumberland is a manufac- turing town of growing importance. Passed Marietta, seventy-six miles below Wheeling, situated on the north side of the Ohio, a little above the confluence of the Muskingum. It is surrounded with a fertile country, and was one of the first settled towns in the state. The first waggon arrived from Massachusetts in 1788, and Cutler's and Putnam's names arc still remembered here. It is a place 6 PARKKR'S JOURNEY l| ' of (.'onsideriiblc business; has a coiirt-liouso, two churclies, aiul an acadenij' ; ami, from the obsurvation I could iiiaki' of it in the evening, I should think it a handsome town. I'assed I'ortsmouth, situated uiion the east bank of the Seiota, near its junction with tiic Ohio. This is a flourisliin!,' villaKc, and has tiie advantage of being upon the great Ohio Canal, where it enters the river. The morning of the 27tii, we stopped at Maysville, Kentucky. Tliis is a compact, well-built town, situ- ated a little below Limestone ("rcelv, si.\t3'-five miles above Cincinnati. There is but a narrow strip of land, on wliich the village is built, between the river and a chain of high hills close in the rear of the village. Manufactures ami considerable trade are carried on ; and its location is favourable for business witli the interior of the state. Arrived at Cincinnati on the 28th. On our way to-day, near the town of Hipley, the boat took fire in the hold. There was a very stiff head-wind, which blew the fire back from the furnace down the hatch- way, which, after taking out some goods, luid been carelessly left ojicn. It caused great alarm. The captain at once rounded the boat to the shore, and ran it in among some trees. As soon as the boat reached the land, many threw their baggage on shore, and leaped from the upper deck. The hold contained many combustible cotton goods. Hut the fire was subdued, and after considerable diflioulty the boat was again under way. Cincinnati is a large city for so new a country, situ- ated in the south-west corner of the state, on the north side of the river, upon two plains, one about si.\ty feet above the other, both of which appear formerly to have been washed by the river. The lower plain is about fifty feet above the bed of the river at low water. The streets run parallel, and cross each other at right angles ; the principal ones are paved, as well as the bank down to the water in the business part of the city, in order to afford acconmiodation for the loading and unloading of steam and other vessels. The town is well built, and to a considerable extent the buildings are of brick. One would hardly think, from the ma- ture appearance and from the quantity of business going forward, that the first settlement was made so lately as 1789. It is not only a conunercial, but also a manufiicturing place, to a large extent. The popu- lation is composed of emigrants, and their descend- ants, from New England, and the middle and some of the southern states, and also from various parts of Europe ; and consequently not of a very homogeneous character. The city is well supplied with schools and seminaries of learning. There is a medical college in the city ; and two miles back, upon a pleasant hill, is the Lane Theological Seminary, which promises much towards helping forv rd the interests of reli- gion in the west. Good n. rals and religion are as ■well sustained in this city as in any in our land.* * [The rapid .-ind Riicccssful incrc.iso of Cincinnati lias been fiirtlieiri by its excellent situation on tlio Ohio, wliioli is at once saiuDrious and favourable for commerce .ind manufactures. The two chief articles of native produce eximrted from Cincinnati are flour and pork. The quantity of pork which is prepared and sent off annually is immense. Various travellers describe the pork trade of Cincinnati in very graphic language. It appears that there are certain large establishments where the animals are killed, cured, and barrelled, with finished skill and inconceivable speed. " The minute division of labour (observes Jlr Hoffman), and the fearful celerity of execution in these swinish workshops, woidd equally dcliglit a posh.a and a political economist ; for it is the mode in which the business is conducted, rather than its ex. tent, which gives dignity to hog killing in Cincinnati, and im- parts a tragic interest to tlie lost moments of the doomed porkers. In one compartment you see a gory block and gleaming axo ; a seething caldron nearly fills another; and the walls of a third bristle with hooks newly sharpened for impalement. There are forty ministers of fate distributed throughout these gloomy abodes, each with his particular office assigned him." The same writer quotes a letter of a Cincinnati correspondent in a Baltimore paper, Took the steam-boat Chien, Captain Reynolds, for St Louis, M-hich by water is 690 miles from Cinciimati. Arrived on the ;«)'th at Louisville. This is a nourish- ing city, situated near the falls of the Ohio, on the Kentucky side of the river, IM miles below Cine iii- nati. It is a growing jilace. of nnich conunercial and niainifacturing business. The falls of the Ohio are twenty-two feet, and can be passed over by boats in high water only ; which, however, ilocs not happen move than two months in the year. To save exi)ense and delay of portage jiast tin; falls, a canal lias been constructed on the south side of the river, at great laboin- and cost. It is two miles in length, fifty feet wide, and forty feet deep, and is cut part of the way tlirough solid limestone. The water l)eing high, we passed over the falls. It was a sublime scene. The water about Louisville moves slowly and smoothly; but as you draw near to the falls, it increases in velocity iind power. You soon lind yourself in an irresistible current ; and you are anx'ous to know whether your jiilots are well skilled in their profession: you look tit them to see if they betray anj- fear; you find, while their attention is fixed, their countenances are serene. Your fears give way to the pleasure of the sublime. The boat shoots forward with amazing force and velocity, and very soon you find yourself gliding along in the widc-spreail calm below. The Ohio is a noble river, affording in its whole course romantic and beautiful prosjiects. It flows in a smooth and easy current, antl is diversified o.i every side with rich bottom-land, rolling hills, and precipi- tous bluffs. These hills and bluffs, in many j)laces, rise abruptly from the shore of the river, in other places they recede some miles, but in every part are in view ; and so varied is the scenery, that there is no weariness caused by monotony. Nowhere has the hand of industry been wanting to add interest in pass- ing through this part of the great western valle}'. which gives a few interesting particulars of this extensive trade. " The whole mnnber of hogs killed last year (says this corre- spondent) in the city and its vicinity, is ascertained to be above one liiimlrcd ami twentiz-tlirce thotuand. From the sliuighter- houscs, the hogs are conveyed in large waggons, tliat hold from twenty -five to forty, to the various packing houses, where they can pack, and have ready for shipment, two hundred midjiftii biirreh of pork in one da;/. It is indeed astonishing with what rapidity they put a hog out of sight, when once they get fair liold of him. As at the slaughter-houses, a perfect system is kept up ; every man has his allotted duty to perform, ond there is conse- quently no interference with each other ; every thing goes on like ' clock-work.' 'When the cleaned carcasses an received, tlioy are first weighed by the weigher, then passelcasantly situated upon a bluff on the west side of the Jlississippi. It has a fine prospect of the river, and might, under the hand of industry, become a desirable place; but the French who have settled in it arc not an enterprising peoi)le, and it has the appearance of decay. We moved but slowly against the wind and current. Witnessed this evening a very striking scene — the fires of the prairies coming over the bluffs. The bluffs arc 200 feet high, and extend one or two miles along the river. At a considerable distance they looked like an illuminated city, but as we approached and had a nearer view, the illusion was dissipated. The fires had got nearly over the bluffs, and curtained them with a moderately as- cending blaze, drawn up on the elevations and let down in festoons in the ravines ; uw\ the counterpart reflected from the smooth waters of the broad Mississippi, added much to the beauty an:) grandeur of the prospect. Made a short stf.y on the 3d at the landing of St Genevieve. The village is situated a mile back from the rivci-, on the west side. It is inhabited almost entirely by French, who, in their custon^s and man- ners, are slow to depart from those established by their forefathers, who have Ion- since pa.ssed away. It is amusing to see the manner they yoke their oxen, and to learn the reason +hcy assign for so doing. The yoke is composed of a straight I'.iece of wood, fastened to the back side of the horns by straps of leather. They say, that in this way they save the whole power of the ox ; but that the yoke, bowed to the neck, and drawn back to the shoulder, loses the power of the head and neck. Their reasoning may satisfy them- selves, but would hardly coiivinee the thorough-going New England farmer. To day had a view of Ilerculaneum, which is situ- ated on the west side of the river, thirty-five miles below St Louis. It is almost surrounded by high pre- cipitous hills, having only a narrow space for the village. There arc here several shot -towers, placed on the blink of high blufl's, in which coiisidcriible business is done. Large quantities of lead, whieli is brought from the mines, are sold and carried to dis- tant markets. In voyaging upon these waters, it is ])ainf'iil to "■cc how tew books of any value there are on lioanl thi' steam-boats. Some novels are found. l>ut the most of them are of .i licentious character. It gave gvcat ofli'nei' to many, that wc should havi' ri'ligioiis worship in the ladii's" caliiii. as we had i)y invitation, (.'om- jilaints of obtrusion were iiiadi — " Obtruding religion —no place for sucli tilings." Ihit profanity and gam- bling ate a))i)arently no ubtrusion ; they art always in time and always in place. tJamliling is practised on board the steam-boats upon these wati'rs to a very great extent. It is a favourite amusement Avitli those whose minds are not snfliciently cultivated to find satisfaction in reading or intelligent conversation. The iiumher of blacklegs who make gainblintr tiieir business of lite is great, and they are adepts in their i)rofcssiou. Their success (k'liends very much upon their skill in cheating, and in decoyiug the inexperienced.'" Arrived on the evening of the 4tli at St Louis. This is a flonrisbing business place, situated on the west side of the Mississippi, two hundred miles above the mouth of the Ohio, am' twenty miles below the mouth of the Missouri, in latitude o8 degrees M minutes north, and longitude 8'J degrees ."iO minutes west. St Louis very much resembles Albans, New York. The ground ascends for about half a mile n-om the river, and then spreads out into a widely extended i>laii), partly covered with shrubbery, behind which are open ])rairies. This place was settled by some French jicople before the year 17G5. That year St Auge de Belle Rive, with a company from Fort Charles, took possession of the place. t)ii the 4th of May 1780, the inhabitants were violently attacked b}' about one thousand Indians, and many were killed. The same year the first American-born citizen (!ame into this place. In the year 178,;, the Mississippi River rose twenty feet higher than usual, and did much damage. This river does not rise so high usually as those of less extent ; and one reason, and jirobably the jirincipal one, is, on account of its spreading over widely ex- tended bottom-lands. In 1702 the first honey-bees ever known here ciinie from the east. In 1814, the first steam-boat, the General I'ike, ascended the river * THE OAMnLBns' CONSTITI'TION-. Whereas it is admitted by political economists and by some wealthy individuals, that employment of labour, even upon things which in themselves are useless, is praiseworthy, in that it iir- nishcs cmpki.\inent for multitudes ; smd whereas this country is so fruitful, that should all be employed in iirnductivc p.irsuits, there would be more thiin a supply for om' markets ; and whereas we would bo as gioat philanthropists as those who advocate useless laboin- to give employment to the lower classes of the community, and to keep up our markets ; therefore resolved, that we, whose n.amesare hereunto subscribed, do form ourselves into a society under the following constitution, viz.— Article I. This society sh.iU be called the Fraternal Gambling Society. Article 11. This society shall be composed of all shrewd or silly men, who, to the fortunes of chance, guided by cunning deceit, are willing to risk their money and speiul their time in getting rich by short methods. ^)((tfelir. It shall be the duty of this society to siiend their time in gambling in any such way as they may chcose— by cards, dice, billiards, lotteries, horse-racing, i:c. &c. Article IV. It shall be lawful and honourable for any person belonging to this society, to cheat and defraud as much as he pleases, provided always he conforms to rules of honour and regu- lations specified in the by-laws which may be made from time to time. Article V. Any person may withdraw from tliis society when he has lost all, to try his fortune in theft, highway robbery, or to commit suicide, but not to enter upon any labour wh! '■ mii^ht overstock our markets, under the penalty of receiving -he scorn and ridicule of all whose interest it is to promote gimib'.Ing ; for it is a principle with us to grow rich by taking from each other's ixiekets, or in any way except productive labc jr. r 8 PARKER'S JOURNEY ' i ;•! to this place. It was a novel t'ling, and excited great admiration. In the parts of the town built by the French, tlie streets are narrow. This may have been done to accommodate their propensity to be sociable, so as to enable them to talk from the windows across the streets. The French popidation, with a few excep- tions, are Roman Catholics, noted fur their indolence and dissipation. Gambling is their favourite amuse- ment; and they have houses devoted to tliis object, with signs up, like the signs of whisky-venders. As gambling docs not increase wealth, there are but a few rich, enterprising men among the French popida- tion. Drunkenness is not common hero, and to abolish what exists, the temperance cause is doing nmch good. Eastern enterprise and influence are gaining gi'ound since the town has been brought ^^nder the laws of the United States; and a new impulse is given to business. 'I'll is is the central place in the west for the fur trade, Avhieh is carried on by the American Fur Company to a considerable extent ; and also much business is done in lead, which comes from Galena. A great number of steam-boats and other water craft of various descrip- tions and destinations, arc seen here at almost all seasons of the year. Adventurers, of almost every description of character and nation, come here, sucli as trappers, hunters, miners, and emigrants, as to a starting-point, to go into the still far west, many of whom seek a miserable fortune in the Rocky ^foun- tains. The local situation of this town is such, that it will inidoubtedly continue to be one of the first places for trade in the great valley of the Mississippi. There are Ave houses of worshi]!, four Protestant and one Roman Catholic. The Catholic cathedral is built of stone, and is a large, expensive building. The Pro- testant influence is increasing, and there are here many active, devoted Christians, who exert a salutary influ- ence upon the town and vicinity around. The popu- lation is fifteen thousand. Found Dr Marcus Whitman here, who is appointed by the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions to be my associate. He came through the central parts of Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois, and ar- rived a few daj's before me, On the 7th we had an interview with !Mr Fontenelle, who takes charge of the caravan sent out by the American Fur Company. Tile caravan goes a very little beyond the Rocky Mountains, for the purpose of carrying out goods f(jr the Indian trade, and for the supply of their men who are engaged in hunting and trapping in and ibout the njountains, and to bring back the frrs Avhich they have tifken during tlie year. There are about three hun- dred men constantly employed in and about the moun- tains, and more than sixty who constitute the caravan. With a much less number it woidd not be safe to per- form this journey, as there are hostile tribes of Indians on the way, naniel}', *:he Arickaras, the Crows, and the Rlackfeet. !Mr Fontenelle kindly offered to accom- modate us with such advantages as may be afforded in his caravan. We found it necessary to leave this place to-day for Liberty, which is one of the most western towns in the United States. We were very tusily employed in making preparation for the jour- ney, and in calling upon and bidding farewell to Cliris- tian friends. There Avas a fire last night, which de- stroyed a very large livery-stable, in which we lost a horse, saddle, and bridle. The old cathedral, which was used for a store-house, was also burnt, and a very large quantity of crockery contained in it was de- stroyed in consequence. VOYAGE UP TnE IMIS.SOUni.— FUR COMPANY'S CARAVAN. At five o'clock I'.ir. went on board the steam-boat St Charles, Captain Shellcross, and ascended the river twenty miles ; ancliorod at the confluence of the Mis- souri and Mississippi, and lay by till next morning, it being dangerous to proceed in tlie night, on account of the many snags and Siind-oars in the Missouri. On the 8th, proceeded up the ^Missouri by rather slow progress, and made our first stop at St Charles, which is twenty miles a1)()ve the confluence of this river with the ^Mississippi, and the same distance north-west from St Louis. This is a pleasantly situ- ated village, upon the lurth side of the river. The country around is interesting, and the soil of superior quality. An enterprising intelligent population would make this one of the most desirable places in the west. Soon after we left the shore, a boy six years old fell overboard. The curren being swift, and the boat inider full waj', there was no opportunity to save him. He was seen floating a short time ; but before the yawl could be loosed from its fastening, and manned, he sunk and was seen no more. His mother was a widow, and with her family was removing from Kentucky to Franklin. The mother and the children lamented greatly and loudly. Near the middle of the day, on the 9th, we struck a snag or rock, so deep beneath the turbid water tliat we coiUd not tell Avhich-it was, and it became neces- sary to repair one of the wheels of the boat, which was much injured. Tliis gave us an opportunity to go on shore. Several of my fellow- voyagers and myself ascended one of those high bluffs which fre- quently skirt this river. This was done by climbing on all-fours up an elevation of several Inmdred feet. Here we had a delightful A'iew of the surrounding country, with its intenningled prairie and woodland, its cultivated spots, and its hills and dales. But in attempting to return, a new difficulty interposed. I said we ascended on all-fours — could we return in the same waj'? We were compelled, in fact, by descending backwards, to use much caution : and let- ting ourselves down by the grass, or sometimes by a slirub or tree, and assisting each other, we came safely to the shore. We also went to a place, some distance below this, where Lewis and Clarke lay by tliree days, waiting a better state of water. Tlicy encamped under a shelving rock, which is composed of white quartose sand, of excellent quality for making flint-glass, equal to that found above Pittsburg. Saw many wild tur- keys along the uninhabited shores. Stopped, on the 1 1th, at Jetl'erson City, the capital of the state. It is situated on the soutli side of the riv?r, ujion a high eminence, a little above the Osage River. It has a great name for so small a place. The State-house is of a size which would be decent for a small academy; and the governor's house would do very well for a common farmer's house in the country, but is hardly such as we should expect for a governor in Jeflerson City. But the state of jNIissouri is com- paratively new, and this place may in tune support its name. Salibath, 12th. — Kept in my state-room, and en- deavoured to observe this saered day in a becoming manner. iSIonday. — P:- 'sed Boonsville and Frjinklin, small villages, with ■ c' tntry of rich land around tliein, which, when iirc'-Jit under good cultivation, must raise these villages in importance. The scenery up tliis river is sulTiciently diversified to excite interest and to charm. The trees along the shores are mostly oak and cotton wood, with some hacklierry and buckeye. Tiie soil is free and rich. The river is constantly wasliing away and forming islands. Sand-liars and snags are so common, that, by becoming aeLiistonied to them, wo hiinlly think of danger. It is interesting to see how easily and how deep tlie trees take root in tlie rich soil along this river. Fre(|uently, where the banks are washing away, fbo roots of the trees are exposed to full view; and gei.. rally there is only a large central root, descending ten or twelve feet, with small ones branching out, presenting the appearance of an inverted cone. Found the steam-boat Siani, Captain L. at Chariton, on pn dii wl ra ab qn av in wc foi rei M BEYOND THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 9 ^fllt. on nccoimt le ^Missouri, soiiri by rather p at St Charles, iiflucnce of this same distance pleasantly situ- the river. The soil of superior ipulatiou would ices in the west. ix years old fell , and the lioat ity to save him, before the yawl nd manned, he er wiis a widow, ni Kentucky to Idrcn lamented 9th, we struck rbid water that ; became ncces- hc boat, which opportunity to '-voyiicfors and lulfs wliich fre- ne by climbing il hundred feet. lie surroundini;- I and woodland, dales. But in ■ interposed. I we return in I'd, in fact, by ution : and let- sometimes by a we came safely some distance by three days, ncainped under white quartose nt-glass, equal my Willi tur- ty, the capital til side of the >VQ the Osas'e a place. Tlu; e decent for a )usc would do n the country, or a fiovern(,r ssouri is corn- time support •ooni, and on- n a becoming anklin, small iround them, ivation, must 'cnery up this interest and IV mostly oak mil buckeye, is constantly and-liars and i aLciistomed is interesting take root in ly, where the the trees are s only a large ■t, with small arauce of an , at Chariton, on board of which the St Charles put her freight and passengers, and returned; both boats having so far discharged their freight that one could proceed with what was remaining. Having got under way, the boat ran upon a sand-bar, which gave it a sudden whirl about, ajiparently threatening a disaster; but the quicksand of which the bar v%'as composed soon washed away, and wo went ahead again, llunning aground in this river is a very different thing from what it would be in most waters ; for the bars arc so generally formed of quicksand, that in most instances the cur- rent around the boat sets all clear. Soon after getting under way, on the 1 6th, we ran upon a bar where we were detained two and a half hours ; and so frequently were we upon bars, that we made only live miles before one o'clock p. rr. Called at Lexington. Tlie village is pleasantly situated one mile back from the landing, and is surrounded by a fine country. We made only about fifteen miles head- way to-day, which is so slow, that it would be more pleasant travelling by land; more especially as we should then bo free from imprisonment with such shockingly profane swearers and gamblers, most of whom are intemperate. 19th. — Another sabbath on board the steam-boat, llow great a contrast to the sacredness of the day when it is enjoyed in the Christian family circle, or in the manner prescribed for its observance ! While continuing our voyage, about the middle of the day, the captain and his men appeared to be given up to blind infatuation. The Siam was a new, well- built boat, had four boilers, and it was her first season. There was therefore no reason why she should not have performed her voj^age steadily and in safety. But, from a disregard for any thing but extreme speed, the captain set no bounds to the raising and applying of steam, and, as I observed that ardent spirits were lavishly used, I apprehended the worst consequences. Soon tiic disaster came, but it proved less extensive than I feared : the main shaft, which was largo and miule of iron, broke, and in an instant our progress was interru])ted. Monday, 20th. — Tliis day was spent m endeavouring to find some remedy for the disaster, but in vain. It only remained to discharge the cargo of the steam- boat upon the shore, let her passengers shift for them- selves, and return with one wheel, like a cripple-winged fowl. Two miles above us lay the steam-boat Nelson, upon a sand-bar, high and dry. She ran aground upon tile sabliath, and being left by a freshet in the river, is waiting for r.nother to take her off. Our captain remarked at diimer to-day, that most of the accidents which happen to steam-boats take place on the sab- bath, and that ho did not believe it would be long before they would not run on that day. We engaged a man to take tis in a waggon to Liberty, and towards evening went out into a small neighbourhood of Mor- mons, where we lodged. They had fled from Jackson county, vbich they call their promised land, and to which they say they shall return. Rode on the 21st, twelve miles to Liberty, through a vcy pleasant and fertile country, thinly inhabited, Avell nin)plied with woods, and sufficiently undulating and hilly to render it healthy. It was at that opening season of the year, when nature, arousing herself from the sleep of winter, appears with renovated beauty. Not only man, but flowers, and trees, and birds, seemed to enjoy the season and the scene. I was much charmed with the wood-duck {A. Sponsa), which here were numerous — the variety of its colours seemed adapted to the beauty of the scenery ; while the nimble deer alternately cro])ped the rich herbage, or frolicked about in mingled timidity and delight. Liberty is a small village, situated three miles north of the river, and is the county town of Clay. It has a court-house built of brick, several stores which do considerable business, a rope-walk, and n number of decent dwelling-houses. Continued at Liberty about three weeks, waiting for the caravan to get in readiness. At this place it forms ; men, horses and mules, and waggons, are col- lected and equipped; and here commences the long journey for the distant west. While we remained here, we had an opportunity to collect much infor- mation from those who have been to and beyond the Rocky Mountains, in regard to the country, mode of travelling, and concerning the various Indian tribes on the way. Saw Captain Ford and Lieutenant Stein from Fort Leavenworth. They are both professors of religion, and appear to be well acquainted with the Indian country. liieutenant Stein has been much among the Indians — was out with the dragoons tho last year — was nnong the Pawnee Picts, of whom he gives a very favourable account, and thinks the way is prepared to establish a mission among them with fair prospects of success. He also thinks the way is pre- pared, or is preparing, for a mission among the Camaii- ches, who heretofore have been hostile, but now wisli for peace and trade with the Americans. Saw also a Mr Vaun of this place, a Baptist professor, who has made two trips to Santa Fe, and has resided two jx'ars in that place. He gives a very favourable account of tho Navahocs, a tribe who mmiber about two thousand Avarriors. Their country lies between the head waters of the Rio Del Norte and the L-astern branches of the Rio Colorado. They carry on agriculture to a very considerable extent; have large herds of cattle and horses, and flocks of sheep ; they do much in domestic manufactures ; .and have houses of good construction. They are friendly to the Americans, but not to the Spaniards. He also speaks well of the Puches, or Apaches, a small tribe on the Del Norte, towards Old Mexico. These have been at war three years with the Spaniards. Saturday, May 9th. — Rode twenty-six miles to Can- tonment Leavenworth, which is situated on the west side of the Missouri River, nearly twenty miles out of the United States. The way is through a fertile sec- tion of country ; part of the distance is an open prairie, other parts are beautifully wooded, and the whole is well adapted to cultivation. I preached three times on the sabbath, and most of the people of the garrison assembled, n id gave good attention. There are a very considerable number of professors of religion attached to this station, but they liave no chaplain to teach and lead them in their devo- tions, which is a deficiency in our military establish- ments. Colonel Dodge and some of the otlier ofKcers appear disposed to maintain good order, and I should think they exert a salutary influence. I had an oppor- tunity, before I returned to Liberty, to take a view of the fort and adjacent country. There is much here to captivate. The buildings of the Fort are situated within an enclosure, around a large beautiful square, ■w'lich is covered Avith green grass and adorned with shady trees. The whole is on an elevation of a few hundred feet, and has an interesting prospect of the majestic river flowing on silently below. Tho fertile country around presont| a wide and fine prospect, and when settled by an industrious population, will equal the most favoured parts of the earth. Liberty, and the countrv around, is inhabited by people of considerable en' 'se, and when it shall be brought under Christian nee, there will be few places more inviting, Tli' is but one Presbyterian minister in this county, the Rev. J, S, ¥,, a man of talents and very respectable attainments, and who is exerting a good influence. The Baptists in this section of the coiuitry are unlike thoso of the east. They arc opposed to the benevolent operations of the day. Elder H., the pastor of the church in this place, invited the Rev. Mr Merril, a Baptist missionary, located among the Otoe Indians of the Platte, and myself, to preacli for him tho first sabbath after our arrival. His people objected, for fear Mr Merril would say something about the causa of temperance, or missionary cfibr; 10 PARKKR'S JOURNEY I 1 IS i 1 and i;i(ler II. had to withdraw his invitation. They profiss to act from Cliristian principles in rcfusinj,' to }fivf tlicir minister any tiiiiijr for snpport, lest tiiey sliDiild make liim a hireling'. It is aMni>in^ to observe the provincialisms which are common in tliis jjart of tiie conntry. If a ])ers()n intenils to commence ajonrney some time in the month, for instance, in May, iic says, " I am {{oinf,' in all the iiii>n( li of May." For a lar^e assembly of peopli', they sity, "A smart sprinkle of iJcojile." The word "ba- lance," comes into almost e\ery transaction: "Will von not have a dessert for the balance of your dinner ':'' — " to make out the huhtticv of his niuht's rest, lie slept until ei^lit in tiie morninfi." If your bareading branches. Sabbath, 24th. — I'assed over a brook near which we had encamped the evening hefore, and remained for the day, while the caravan went on. The move- ments of the caravan ai'c so slow, that we felt confi- dent we could overtake it without any ditHculty ; and there being no danger from hostile Indians, we considered it our duty to rest on this holy day. The day was very warm for May, the thermometer stand- ing, at two in the afternoon, at 88 degrees. Alonday, S.'ith. — Overtook the caravan before night. Crossed the south lu'anch of the Neslmabotana on a raft. Some of the men of the caravan, if not all, were much displeased because wc did not travel with them on the sabbath. To express their displeasure, they cut some of the harks with which the rid't they had made was bound together,^ and sit it adrift. Frovi- dentially, it did not drift far before it lodged against a tree, and, witlanit much loss of time, we repaired it and passed over. On the iiGth, came to the main branch of the Xe.di- nabotana, and conunenced making a rai't, the finishing of which and crossing took most of the following day. The soil of this j),irt of the country is rich, and the grass for an" horses excellent ; but there are none here to till the ground, nor to gather in the ten thousand tons of hay which might be made from the sjionta- neous growth. This ])art of the country does not .yet answer the end for which it was created. The time ."^- BEYOND THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 11 rst for iinlont iciplc'il men on II, will supply 1(1 (li'striKtion. to J{liii;ksnakv; injfs, and shall Vt IJhicksiiake iiitl an mu'oni- tlie Missouri f of land, liav- e than a tlioii- lonjj down the rtially covered DUght without [tie uuel other s they choose, fields for cul- le of disposing !ifrht feet high, ly constructed ; in the house, many kinds of fniilk. )ecurred. On with a raft, to , took most of t a niimher of iide with hark swim across a rope, while en shoved olf, • pullinj,' u])on considerahly uid upon the I'ossed and re- over. Then ses, which is )f men, snort- imd stones to the way over, o wary to he d our hunters any. They on, make a y found their ere four feet 3. lear wliich md remained Tile movii- we felt coiifi- ly ditKcnlty ; Indians, we ly day. The imeter staiid- hefore night, iihotana on a not all, were el with them easure, they I'f't they had rift, Provi- a;ed against a L' repaired it of the Xe.di- the finishing llowing day. icli, and the ire none here ten thousand the sjionta- (loes not yet . The time will onnic, vhen a dense jiopulation will cover this country, v. ho will render the sacritice of prayer and praise to our (iod. On tlie 2Hth, we rode eleven miles, and came to the north hraiich of the NeslinalKJtaiia. After we had made a raft, we had a very difficult time of crossing. The water was continually and rapidly vising, and hefore we had got across, the hanks were overflowed to a considerahie depth : the alluvial soil was ren- dered too soft to sustain our horses, and they sunk so deej) that they could not get along. After searching for a long time, a ])lace was found siifHciently hard to hear up our animals when unloailed. AVe had to carry our haggage upon our shoulders about fifteen rods, part of the way up to the middle in water, going for- ward and returning, until we arrived at better ground ; and then we had to ridi one mile to the dry ])rairie in water one and two feet deep. We rejoiced to find ourselves once more on firm footing, and encamped by a stream of clear water, which is rare in this jiart of tlie country, and especially at this season of the year. The waters of all this jiortion of countr}', especiallj' of the Missouri Kiver audits large tributary streams, are very turbid, owing to the nature of the soil over which they pass. A paili'ull of water, standing half an hour at the seasons of freshets, will deposit three-eighths of an inch of sedhnent ; and yet the water, when settled, apjiears to be of good quality. Our mode of living, from day to day, had already necessarily become uniform. Dry bread and bacon constituted our breakfast, dinner, and supper. Om* bacon we cooked, when we could obtain wood for fire; but when " out of sight of land," that is, when nothing but green grass could be seen, we ate our bacon with- out cooking. A very few of the simplest articles of fin-nitiirc were sufficient for our culinary pin-poscs. The real wants of life arc few, artificial ones are nu- merous. oOth. — Drew near to Council IJluiTs, and passed down from the liigli rolling prairie, through a vale two or three miles long, and half a mile wide, into the rich alluvial and widely extended valley of the Jlis- .souri, through a section of country of uncommonly interesting scenery. The mounds, which sonic have called the work of unknown generations of men, were scattered here in all varieties of forms and magnitudes ; and thousands in number, and perhaps I may say ten thousands, yomo of these mounds were conical, some elliptical, some square, and some Avcre parallelograms. One group of these attracted my attention more than any others. They were twelve in number, of conical form, with their bases joined, and twenty or thirty feet high. They formed about two-thirds of a circle, with an area of two hundred feet in diameter. If these were isolated, who would not say they arc artificial? But wlien they are only a group often thousand others, which have as much tlie appearance of being artificial, who will presume to say they are the work of man ? But if they arc the work of art, and attest the num- ber, the genius, and perseverance, of departed nations, whose works have survived the lapse of ages, we would interrogate the authors ; hut no voice replies to ours. All is silent as the midnight grave. " The nund seeks in vain for some clue to assist it in unravelling the mys- tery. Was their industry stimulated by the desire to jirotcct themselves against inroads of invaders, or were they themselves the aggressors ?" Are they the monu- ments of V extern Pharaohs, and do they conceal trea- sures which may yet be brought to light ? There is nothing plainer than that they were never designed as works of defence. But some, wliile they admit they were not designed for oH'ensive or defensive operations of belligerent powers, supjiose they were erected as " mausolc'ims, and that the difl'erence in their size was intended to convey an idea of the difll'renec in the relative importance of those whose bones tliey cover." If this theory be true, the La Trappe on the Missis- sippi, wliich I had nn oi)portunity of examining on my northern tour, which is as nnicli as one hundred and fifty feet high, and covering about six acres, must enclose mighty bones, or the bones of a mighty nio- nanh. I would not be understood to dissent from the iK'lief that there are any artificial nioiuids in the great valley of the west, but I believe there is a gnat mis- take upon this subject. It is said, by those who advo- cate the belief that they are the work of ancient na- tions, that they present jjlain evidence of this, from the fact that they contain human bones, articles of pottery, and the like, wliich evince that they were constructed as burying-pli...s for the dead. That some of them have been used for burying-i)laces, is un- doubtedly true : but may it not be (luestionable whether they were made, or only scUvkd for burying jilacis. Mo one, who has ever seen the thousands and ten thousands scattered through the valley of the Jlissis- sii)pi, will ever be so credulous as to believe that a five-hundredth part of them are the work of man. Crossed the Alaragine Uiver, which, though very deep, was not so wide but that we constructed a bridge over it. Made our waj' many miles through the rich bottom lands of the ^Missouri, and crossed this noble river over against Bellevue, in a large canoe, and swam our horses and mules aiiross, which, considering the width of the river ai '. the strength of the current, requireil much effort. Went to the agency hou?e, where I was haj)i)y to find brethren Dunbar and Allis, mi'isionaries of the Tawnecs, under the direction of the American Boanl of Commissioners for Foreign ?.lis- sions. There is a Baptist mission here, composed of the Bev. Moses ^lerrill and wife, Miss Brown, and a Christian Indian woman, a descendant of the Bev. D. Brainard's Indians. They arc appointed by the Ikip- tist Hoard to labour among the Otoe Indian'', about twenty-five miles from this place, on the Biver I'lattc. These Indians arc away from their intended residence, about half the time, on hunting excursions. A little more than half a mile below the agency, the American Fur Company have a fort, and in con- nexion with which, they have a fanning establishment, and large numbers of cattle and horses, a horse power- mill for grinding corn, &c. w% w^^ix-*- X' INDIAN THIBES ON THE MISSOllil.-T.U'K IN THE PllAIKlKS. Wk continued in this place three weeks, waiting the movements of the caravan, which were long in get- ting prepared for their mountain-journej'. During our stay here, I frequently walked over the hills bordering upon the west of the valley of the INlis- souri, to enjoy the pure air of the rolling ; -airies, and to view tlie magnificent prospects unfolded in the vale below. From the summit of those ])romiiiences, the valley of the ISIissouri may be traced imtil lost in its winding course among t:ie bluffs. >^ix miles below, is seen therapillon, a considerable stream from the north- west, winding its way round to the east, and uniting with the ^Missouri, six miles above the confluence of the I'latte, coming from the west. These flow through a rich alluvial plain, opening to the south and south- west as far as the eye can reach. I'luin these meadows are seen feeding some few hundreds of horses and mules, and a herd of cattle ; and some fields of corn diversify the scenery. The north is covered with woods, which are not less important than the rich vales. But few places can present a prospect more interesting, and when a civilised population shall add the fruits of their industry, few will be more desirable. In respect to efforts for the religious instruction and conversion of the Indians, I am convinced, I'rom all I can learn of their native character, that tlie first im- pressions M'hich the missionary makes upon them are of paramount importance in their bearings on successful labours among them. In things iibout which they are conversant, they are men ; but about other things they 12 PARKER'S JOURNEY :| I", I 1 arc children, and like children, the announcement of a new Hubject awakens their attention, their curiosity, and their energies ; and it has been remarked by a Methodist missionary wlio has laboured among the Indians, that many seemed to embrace the gosjiel on its first Ixiing offered, and that those among the adults who failed to do so were rarely converted. If from any motives, or from any cause, instruction is delayed, and their expectations are disappointed, they relapse into their native apathy, from which it is difficult to arouse them. AVe had an opportunity, whilst we continued in this place, to collect much informatiou about tlic Indians in tlie Sioux country from Major P., the agent ap- pointed bj' government to tlie Yanktons, a band of the Sioux, lie appears to be not only intelligent and can- did, but also well disposed towards Indian improve- ment. The following is the substance of the infor- mation which he gave us in regard to several tribes to the nortli and north-west of this place : — That the Omahas are situated uj)on the ^Missouri, about one hundred and fifty miles above this place, and number about two thousand. Tliey have been well disposed to- wards the whites, but, owing to tlieir intercourse with traders and trappers, and injuries which they have received from tliem, they are becoming more vicious in their habits, and less friendly. And yet, kind treat- ment would conciliate their favour ; and there can be little doubt that a misaion might be established among them with fair prospects of success. The. Yanktons are an interesting band of the Siuux, of about two tliousand people. Their village is to be located on the Vermilion Kiver, where it miites with the Missouri from the north. Major P. thinks this woiUd be a very eligible place for a missionary station, and says he v.'ill do what lies in his power to aid su-^h an enterprise. Tlie Ponca Indians on the south side of the Mis- souri, at the confluence of the L'eau-qui-coure, number six or eight hundred, and speak the same language as the Omahas. The region of country, from the mouth of the Big Sioux ISiver, and tliat on the south of the L'cau-qui- coure, as high as the country of tlic Iklandau Indians, may bo classed under the general head of the Sioux country, and is inhabited by tlie following bands of Sioux — namely, the Yanktons, already mentioned, Santas, Yanktonas, Tetons, Ogallallahs, Siones, and the llankpapes, who course cast and west from the IMisslssippi to the Black Hills, and sometimes as far south as the River Platte. The real number of the relative bands cannot be correctly ascertained, but pro- bably it is from forty to sixty thousand. Their habits are wandering, and they rely exclusively upon the chase for subsistence. Their principal trade is in buffalo robes. The traders have for many j'cars main- tained a friendly in t( rcourse with them, and, generally speaking, they are much attaclied to wliitc men. Tlic Atandans are a much more stationai'y people than almost any other tril)e in this whole region of country, and the opportunity to establish missionaries among them is good ; but on accoimt of repeated ill treatment whicli they have experienced, they are beginning to grow suspicious, and are losing confi- dence in white men. Our stay in this jjlace was jirotracted much beyond our expectations. Two weeks after our arrival, the spasmodic cholera broke out Avith a great degree of malignancy. The weather was very warm, and there were showers from day to day. The habits of the men, and their imperfect accommodations, probably liad a tendency to induce the disease. Three died, and undoubtedly the mortality woidd have been greater, had it not been for tlie blessing attending the assiduous attention of Dr AVhitman, ray associate, and the free use of powerful medicines. And had it not been for his successful practice, the men would have dispersed, and the caravan would have failed of going to tlie place of rendezvous. This was plainly scon and frankly acknowledged. God in mercy provided the remedy ixifore he inflicted the scourge. This alarming disease was the means of urging our departure from this place sooner than we otluirwisc should have done. It was necessary to move forward to the prairies, as tlie only prospect of escaping the further ravages of the disease. Not a single new case occurred aftor we reconmienced our journey. Whilst we remained at Bellcvue, a man named Garrio, a half-blood Indian chief of the Arickaras, was sliot under very aggravated circumstances. Garrio and his family were residing in a log-cabin on the PapUlon Kiver. Six or seven men went down to his house in the night, called him up, took liim awaj- half a mile, and shot him witli six balls, scalped him, and left him unburied. The reason they assigned for doing so was, that he was a bad man, and had killed white men. If he was guilty, who authorised them to take his life? The Arickara nation will remember this, and probably take revenge on some innocent persons. This, I apprehend, is the waj' Indian wars are pro- duced. Wliile we charge the Indians with invete- rate ferocity and inhuman brutidity, we forget the too numerous wrongs and outrages committed upon them, which incite them to revenge. Tliey cannot apprehend and do justice to such offenders. Or, if they could, woulil it not be published as a gross Indian murder and aggression, and a war of extermination be commenced against them ? When Indian offences are proclaimed, wo hear only one side of the storj', and the other will not be heard uutil the last great day. ^Monday, June 22. — After so long delaj', we recom- menced our journey for the west. The Black Hills are to be our next stopping place. The caravan started yesterday. We passed over a rich extensive prairie, but so poorly watered, that we did not find a stream of water through the whole daj-. In the aftev" noon wo liad to ride in a heavy, cold rain, in conse- quence of which I became much chilled. Overtook the caravan, and encamped before night on a high prairie, where we could find but little wood, and it was difficult to make a fire. We had some coarse bread made of corn, and some bacon, for supper. The change from the comforts to the bare necessaries of life was trying ; but when I had wrapped myself in my blankets, and lay down upon the ground to repose for the night, I was comfortable, and felt thankful to God for his goodness. Being now beyond all white inhabi- tants, in an Indian countr}', and not knowing what tlie eventful future might unfold, I thought I coiUd give up all my private mterests for the good of the jjcrishing heathen, if ..coiddbe instrumental in promoting their temporal and eternal welfare. Come life or death, I thought I could say, " Thy will be done." Fi'lt strong confidence that God would protect and provide for us, and derived great consolation from the promise, " Lo, lam with you always." The very pelting of the storm upon our tent had something in it soothing, and cal- culated to excite the feeling tliat God was near. On the 23d, the storm still continued, and we did not remove our encampment. Towards noon on the 24tli, went forward on our way, and crossed the Papillon lliver, which occasioned much delay to get our bag- gage, waggons, and animals over. We did not find a suitable place for encamping until about sunset, where! we could be accommodated with wood and water ; and before we could pitch our tent, a thunder-storm, whii'h had been gathering for some time, came down upon us with great violence, accompanied with wind and hail. The animals of the caravan fled in difrcrent directions, some packed and some unimcked. I had barely time to unpack my nnile and let him go, and it was with much difficulty I could hold my horse, which had become almost frantic imder tlie beating hail, nor did I escape without some contusions. The lightning was very frequent, and the thunder was almost one contumal roar. After awhile, the fury of BEYOND THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 13 II and frankly ^d tlie remedy irniinfc disease from this place done. It was OS, us the only I of the disease, recommenced I man named \rickara8, was inccs. Garrio -cabin on tlie it down to his him away half Iped him, and Kneaec in tlie centre for our lodgings. My bed is made by first spreading doAvn a bufl'alo skin, ujion this a bear skin, then two or three Mackinaw blankets, and my port- manteau constitutes my pilloAv. We proceeded to-day a few miles up the Eoups I'ork, and crossed over at a good fording place, such as we did not expect to find. The river here is nearly a mile wide. After going a few miles up the river, Ave halted for the night. The manner of our encamping, is to form a large hollow square, encompassing an area of about an acre, having the river on one side ; three Avaggoiis forming a part of another, coming doAvii to the riA'cr ; and three more in the same manner on the opposite side ; and the packages so arranged in parcels, about three rods apart, as to fill up the rear and the sides not occupied by the Avaggons. The horses and mules, near the middle of the day, are turned (mt under guard, to feed for two hours ; and the same again to- Avards night, mitil after sunset, Avhen they are taken up and brought into thehoUoAV s(iuare, and fastened Avith ropes tAVclA'C feet long, to pickets driven firmly into the ground. The men arc divided into small compa- nies, stationed near the several parcels of goods and the Avaggons, Avhere they wrap themseh'cs in their l)laiikets and rest for the night ; the Avhole, howcA-er, are formed into six divisions to keep guard, relieving each other every two hours. This is to prevent hostile Indians from falling upon lis by surprise, or from coming into the camp liy stealth for the purpose of plunder. We Avcre permitted, by favour, to ])itcli our tent next to the river, half Avay between the two Avings, which made our situation a little more retired. Nothing important on the 2d. On the M, passed tho village of the Tapage and Kepublican Pawnee Indians. These Indians have buildings Avhich appear substantial and adapted to conifovt.* ^ftlany of the I'aAviiee Loiips came to us, and received us Avitli great civility and kindness. Big Axe, their second chief, had charge of this party. He is a man of dignified appearance, and his countenance is cxpressiA'c of intelligence and l)enc- A-olencc. He is A-ery friendly to Avhite men. These Indians Avere going out upon their summer hunt, and ujion the same route Ave Averc pursuing, and Avere not Avilling Ave should go on before them, lest avc should frighten away the buirdocs. These Indians manifest their friendship by inviting us to feasts ; and as avc may attend half a dozen in a day Avithout being surfeited, an explanation maj- not be out of place. Big Axe gave the first invitation. It * [" The Piiwiico village stands in .a prairie, .it the foot of a long ranpc of liills, and witliin about fifty janlH of the Hivcr Platte, which, at this plaee, is .ibout two miles broad, and very slinllow (as the river's name imports), being constantly forded by tho squaws, who visit the different islands, andobtftin from them tho only fu( 1 and building material whieli the country hero alVords. The loiines in the town are numerous, and built close together, w ithout the least regard to regularity ; arc Iicmisphorical in shape, and covered with earth to the thickness of several feet. They vary in licight from twenty to thirty feet ; and some arc nearly ninety feet in diameter. Tho large circular or dome-lilvo roofs of the buildings, arc supported from the interior, by pillars formed from tho upright trimks of trees ; and large berths, or cribs, for sleeping, arc ranged around the interior, against the wall of tho building. In the centre, n hole is dug to contain tho fire, the smoke of which is permitted to eildy through the apartment, and escape at its leisure by n perforation in the roof, which at onco serves as a chimney and a solitary window to let in the light. On account of the scarcity of wood, several families congregate to- gether in the 8.imo lodge, and are seen, throughout tho whole day, lounging and sleeping before the (ire, or gorging themselves from tho large kottlo, fillotl with buffalo flesh , which Is perpetually over the fire. Upon entering the village, wo found tho tops of tho lodges completely covered with women and children, whilst tho area in front of tho chief's dwelling was equally crowded. AVhcn wo reached tho front, tho chief, who had ridden in advance of the party, stepped from the dark passage, Avhich formed the cn- trnnco to his abode, to meet \xa."—fyaihington Irving-} ■r 14 PARKER'S JOURNEY is not customary for those who provhle the feast to sit down witli Ihtir j;\ic'sts ; therefore Big Axe and his associates sat in difiuilied silenee on one side of the lodge, wiiik' those of us who partook fif tiie feast oe- i'ui)ied the centre. Tlie ihiughters of Jiig Axe served us on tliis occasion, and liouiitifully heljjcd us witli ))oiled corn and heans. Sudi are tlieir customs, that, to avoid giving otlencc, we must eat all tluit is set before us, or take it away; and JMr rontenelle took what remained, (ii the evening we were invited to two others. 'I'lie first consisteil of boiled corn and dried pumpkins, and the other of boiled buffalo meat. 1 took away what remained. We also gave the principal ciiiefs a feast, setting before them all the variety which our haeun and coarse bread could fur- nish, having it in our power to add a dish of coifee, of which luxury we partook for this time only on our whole journey. Amidst the uniformity of the ])rairies, there is some agreeable variety. It was interesting to see the various lieds in wiiich the river has run, and which it has forsaken while it has formed ncAV ones. Fornierly, perhaps but a very few hunilreil years ago, this river ran a hundred feet higher tiian at present ; and it is this process which renders these rivers so very turbid. The water of Loups Fork, however, comparatively speaking, is quite clear. The botany of this section of country is very interesting. Since crossing the Elkhorn, I have noticed nine difl'erent siwcies of grass, most of which arc entirely new. The flowering plants are very numerous and beautiful, and especially the rose, which is found of almost every hue. Thernio- nieter, at noon, 'JO degrees. July 4th. — This is a da^- of great noise and bustle in the States. t)rators speak of the deeds and achieve- ments of our forefathers ; their audiences catch the spirit of patriotism. Xot so with our company. Hav- ing almost expatriated themselves, they had forgotten their nation's birth-day ; and knowing that their days of indulgence would be seasons of revelling, I forbore to remind them of it. How suitable would be a ra- tional religious expression of gratitude to Heaven, in- stead of the confusion and riot which are the eonnnon demonstrations of joj' on such occasions. Sabbath, 5th. — The caravan went forward a few miles and encamped. The Indians were constantly calling at our tent through the day. It was painful to witness their j)oor degraded condition, ignorant of God and salvation ; while we, not knowing their lan- guage, were not able to point them to tlie Saviour, nor to teach them their obligations to their Maker, and their duty to turn to him with their whole heart. I sincerely hope that the I'awnee mission may pros- per ; that the system which Messrs ])unbar and Allis have adopted, of following the Indians in their wander- ings and living with them in their own fashion, may be persevered In, until their teaching and influence are felt, and the Indians shall locate themselves upon their lands, under the influence of Christianitj- and civilisa- tion. The mode which Jlcssrs Dunbar and Allis have liitherto practised, appears to be the right one, and must be generally adopted, to bring the numerous wan- dering nations and tribes to the knowledge of Christ. It is all important that the missionary be able to speak to the heathen in the language wherein they were born. It is also important that the Indians settle down and eidtivate the soil : but how can they be in- duced to do this before they are taught? Do -.ny say, by an interpreter? An interpreter nuiy be c.nployed for a while, but the missionary must become, as soon as possible, his own interpreter. And why can he not learn the Indian language as well as the trader and liunter ? He can, if he will exercise as much self-denial. On the Cth, left the Loui)s Fork very early in the morning, in company with the I'awnees, and directed our course south-west for thel'latte River. Towards night we had a thunder-storm with heavy rains, which continued through most of the ni ,;Iit; but under our tent we kept dry, and sle])t so soimdly, that we had our meat stolen from us without being awakcnc d. Though only about six pounds, it was, in our circumstances, a sensible loss. After we came to the Platte, we pursued our way up the river, which is broad, but not very deej), as its name indicates. The country begins to diminish in fer- tility, but still is very good. We were prevented from making the progress we might have made, if the In- dians would have permitted us to leave them. The men of the caravan began to find fault with the delay, and had reason to do so, on account of the want of food, having nothing to eat l)ut boiled corn, and no way to obtain any thing else before finding buH'aloes. The intellectual powers of these Indians are very good, but need cultivation. They are fond of orna- ments and variety, and not having the means of gra- tifying their vanity, as eiviliswl people have, they resort to almost any thing to decorate their persons, such as porcupine quills, beads, wreaths of grass and flowers, brass rings upon their wrists, birds' feathers, and claws of wild beasts ; the claws of a grizzly bear are an ornament of the first order, and the tails of white wolves are in high estimation. But their most universal .and particular ornament is painting their faces with vermilion. These tribes, though possessing many amiable traits of character, are, like most nations unenlightened by Christianity, cruel to their old men and women. The women are compelled to do all the work — the men only hunt and go to Avar. Having but few horses, when they travel they load their old men and women, and even the blind and lame, as well as their dogs. I did not see among these Indians a single person having ail}' natural ileformity, nor any one who appeared to be deficient in common sense. .July 'Jth. — To-day Big Axe came to my tent and sat by me a long time. Never did I so much wish to con- verse with any man, and tell him about the Savioar ; and from the expression of his countenance, I thought he felt the same. But the gift of tongues was not im- parted to me, and we could only converse by the lan- guage of signs, which can be used far better than I had anticipated. By Mr Fontenelle's making a largo present to the Indians, they agreed to let us go on to-morrow without them. Our men could hardly have been restrained witliin subordination if they had not consented. Towards the night of the 10th, we had an uncom- mon storm of thunder, hail, r.ain, and wind. The horses and mules could not bo controlled, and they turned and fled in all directions before the storm. The. whole caravan were scattered ; but wlr : the storm abated, they were again collected without much dilH- culty. and nothing was lost. If any hostile band of Indians had ' ecu about us, it would have been easy for them to have made us a prey. But the I^ord not only rode upon the storm, but was also near for our defence. The scene was alarming, and yet grand and truly sub- lime. Sabbath, 12th. — We are in a land of dangers, but God is our preserver ; and how desirable is it, that his mercies should be had in grateful remembrance, and that portion of time which he has set apart as holy should be observed as such ! The caravan travelled a part of the day, but was under the necessity of stoj)- ping in consequence of rain, which wet the packages. It is worthy of notice, that there have been various providences, which have thus far ])revented the cara- van from traveUing much upon the sabbath. But this day has been one of great confusion and wickedness. In cnnseciuence of the men being drenched with rain, whisky was dealt out freely, to keep themfixMn taking eohl. Most of them became much excited, and one of the men, who took an active part in killing Garrio, stabbed a man with full intent to have jiierced his heart ; but the knife, by striking a rib, turned aside, and only made a deep flesh wound. UEYONJ) THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. Id I we liiul our {(I. Thoiit;Ii imstanct's, a 1 our way up tlei']), as its linisli ill I'cr- tVL'iited from e, if tlie Iii- ni. The men le (k'laj-, and ■ant of food, id no way to loes. ms are very jud of orna- leans of fjra- ! liave, they lieir persons, of grass and rds' feathers, grizzly bear 1 the tails of nt their most ainting their imiable traits diglitened by ronien. The the men only horses, when women, and ■ dogs. I did ersoi'. having appeared to y tent and sat I wish to eon- tho Saviour ; lee, I thought s was not ini- ic by the lan- tcrthanlhad •csent to the rrow without n restrained iseuted. d an uncom- wind. The ed, and they e storm. The ■. the storm iG nmeh dilH- itile band of been easy for Liord not only r our defence, lul truly sub- dangers, but is it, that his nbrance, and jiart as lioly in travelled a ssity of stop- he packages, been various ted the cara- iith. But this I wickedness, ed with rain, I from taking :1, and one of illing Garrio, u pierced his turned aside, July 13tli. — Wo arc not travelling through forests, or a solitary di.'serti but, so far ii« Ijoundless meadows are concerned, the country has thv, appearance of being mider good cultivation. We see no fields of grain secured from the beasts of the eartli by fences, nor habitations of civilised men, but meadows adorned with a great variety of plants, some of wiiieh appear to be gregarious. C)ften some acres are diversified witli a great variety of colours and species. There are two s])eciefiof plants which are said to be a sovereign remedy against the i)oison of the rattle- snake, the virtue of one of which we had an oppor- tunity of testing. One of our men was bitten in the foot, and before we knew his situation, the jioison had so far progressed, that his foot and leg had become much inflamed, and were verj' painfid. t)ne of these plants was apjjlied to the jiarts affected, and at once the man became convalescent, and in a few hours was well. Tlie jtlant resembles the blue flag in its leaves, but dittL'rs in having them serrated. 'i"he root, which contains its healing i)roperties, is pounded and applied to the aflected ])arts. Kattlesnakes, though common, are not numerous. These and other reptiles are prevented from nndtiplying by the fires which every year run over the prairies. On the 14th, the aimouncenient of bufl^does spread cheerfulness and animation through be whole cara- van ; and to men whose very life depended on the cir- cumstance, it was no indifferent event. From the inmicnse lierds of tliese wild animals, dispersed over these beautiful fields of nature, we were to derive our subsistence. Although several were seen to-day, yet our hunters were not successful in obtaining manv. I had heard of the prairie horse-fly, but was not aware that it avouUI be so very annoying, or, I may say, so very tormenting to our horses. Its bite is like the thrust of the point of a lancet, and when the fly is surfeited, or is brushed off, the blood immediately gushes out. When the caravan is in close ccmipany, there being about two hundred horses and mules, the flies are so divided in number that they are not much felt : but when for any purjiose a horse is separated from the company, be is severely tormented until he retiu'ns. On one occasion, when I rode forward to find a crossing i)lace over a deep muddy stream of water, these flies came round my horse in such swarms, that they ])ut him in an agony, so that he became frantic, and I was obliged to return in full s])eed, otherwise I could not have kept ujion my saddle. 1 have no doubt that a horse left alone any considerable time in this section of country, in the season of these flies, would be killed. Tlie next day, we journeyed as usual, and about noon arrived at the Forks of the I'latte. AVe saw a large herd of buffaloes, from which we obtained ii good supply of excellent meat. Tlie buflidoes present, witii their shaggy shoulders, neck, and heads, a very ma- jestic appearance ; and to one ignorant of their dispo- sitions their appearance is truly formidable. But they are timid and inoffensive, showing nodisjiositiou to in- jure any person, except in self-defence, when woiuuled and closely pursued. Their strengtli is great; and although they look clumsy, they rim very swiftly. It requires a horse of more than ordinary speed to outriui them for any considerable time. The section of country about the Forks of the Platte is very pleasant, without any high nu)untains in sight ; but at a distance, beyond the widely extended rich bottom-lands, blutts of various forms present pietu- rescpie scenes. The entire want of forests in a large space of country around, is a desideratum which can- uot be easily supplied ; but probably forest-trees might be cultivated to advantage. Is it not highly probable that mineral coal will be found here as well as upon the prairies in the western states? We found no wood yesterday, nor to-day, and probably shall not for some days to come, and therefore we have been tmder the uecessity of making our fires witii the dry dung of the bufliilo. The most thoroughly wcather-lioaten is selected, and jirovi'S to be a better substitute for com- mon fuel than we had autici])ate(i. Although we are in the section of countrv v lure we had feiirs of finding the Aiickara Indian •■. the deatli of \vhc>-t' iliief has Ir'cii mentioned, and who have ijci'ii residing m;ir this place for several months past, yet we have seen no Indians since we left the Pawnees. It is supjiosed tl.e'V have gone fur up tJU' soutli Fork of the PiMtte, to avoid tlie l'nite the nortli-west Fork of the I'latte, and towards niglit encamped u])on its l)ank in our usual form, using particular caution * i be jirepared for an attackof the Arickaras. should any of their war parties be at)out us. livery man was re(|iiire(l to see that his rifle was in good order, and to have a good supply of powder and balls. V.'e all slept with our clothes on, so that, if I'alied with tlie seutiiiel's fire, we might in less than a moment lie ready for action ; but the night passed away in (luietude, and at tiie first breaking of t!ie day, we were awakened witii llie cus- tcuuary call of the guide. Saw, on tlie lOtii, the buflidoes in greater numbers and in nearer view than previously. Tliey are less shy than those we first found. Tiiey arc more majes- tic than the elk, but less beautiful. The antelojies, some of which we liave seen for several days jiast, are becoming very numerous. 'J'iiey are riglitly named; for their speed exceeds ai',y animal I have ever seen. Our hounds can , and ex- changed salutations of jieace. They were ( )galla]lahs, liead near the fort, in our usual form. ^^^vvvA. v^.lN x/\A,NA<>> INDI.VN BUIFALO DAXCK.-GRIZZI.Y BEAnS— OKOLOGY. TnKRK is nofliing in the colour of the soil or rocks of f'e Black Hills to give them this name, but they are so called from being covered with shrubby cedars, wliich give them a dark appearance when seen at a distance. Thealhivial soil ui)on t'e rivers and in the valleys is very good, l)ut upon the higher lands and hills the soil is thin and rather barren, and in ma y parts full of stones, which are worn smooth by the action of water, and are of various kinds and forms. One spur of the Bocky ^lountains is seen from this place, which is forty or fifty miles distant, and is pro- bably .'iono feet high. A day of indulgence was given to the men, in which they drink as nnieh as they please, and conduct them- selves as they may choose. It was, as usual, found that ardent spirits excited so many evil spirits, that they may be called legion. A Mr G. shot at a man of the name of Van B., with the full intention to kill him. The ball entered the back and came out at the side. "Van B. exclaimed, " I am a dead man!" but after a pause, said, "No, I am not hurt." G. on this seized a rifle to finish the work, but was prevented by some men standing by, who took it from him and fired it into the air. 2Sth. — The day of indulgence being jiast, a quiet day followed. The exhilaration was followed by con- sequent relaxation, and the tide of spirits which arose so bigli yesterday, ebbed to- that of flattening, or mashing in the whole front of the skull, from the superciliary ridge to the crown. Tlie apjicar- ance produced by tliis unnatural opcraticm is almost hideous, and one would suppose that the intellect wouhl bo materially af- fected by it. This, however, does not appear to be the case, ns I have never seen, with a single exception (the Kayusesl, n race of people who appeared more shrewd and intelligent. I had a conversation on this subject, a few days since, with a chief who speaks the Knglish language. He said that he had exerted him- self to abolish the practice in his own tribe ; but, although his people would listen patiently to his talk on most subjects, their ears were firmly closed when this was mentioned : ' They would leave the council tire, one by one, until none but a few squaws and children were left to drink in the words of the chief It is even considered among them a degradation to possess a round head ; and one whose caput has happened to be neglected in his infancy, can never become even a subordinate chief in his tribe, and is treated with indifference and disdain, us one who is unworthy a place amongst them. The flattening of the head is practised by at least ten or twelve distinct tribes of the lower country— the Klicatats, Kala- poo.'ihs, nud Multnomahs of the Willamet and Its vicinity ; so PAUKKR'S JOURNKY While wo continu(;ieal and medical aid were constant every hour in the day. After s])en, PLC ilays' joiir- j)avt\ of Crow • some of tlicir tiy loved; Imt io ulad hy our ntiiijli, but iiu -(luin-wa-lisli, nun a little liis ears ; lie lown into liis I'll his iieojjle. they all made l)rcseut a jiro- h is white for lie rrovidenco iety to obtain rious eireum- consideration, lie eonelusioii, ions might Ix) ilid this objeet ,'turn "itli the ome out with ning caravan, leojile, and by ing the fjospel if the object, I il to go alone joiu'iicy. Dr some niisgiv- h the Indians, he should be 1 him to give !ct ; and, with to the under- 1 his good pro- ne. inent, -iiid had '. I stated to tor Whitman. 1 to assist me, eir country to River. They ;n for my par- e need of him, voymjenr, who CO sTifficiently s and to ex- lioly religion, no "with these the Shoshoncs lissions among s which would cautious upon ikc an Indian roposal and a nerous nation, he most desti- Indians west south-west of .md is said t") untry in these d Snakes and ese resorts to suflTer greatly squalid tlnn crty does not Christ. The .•e, and their rnnntry, which is towards Santa Fc, is said to be tole- rably almiiihmt. A few (lays after onr arrival at the ])larc of ren- di'/vous, and when all the mountain-men hail assem- bled, another day of indulgence was granted to them, in which all restraint was laid aside. These days are tlie climax of the Inniter's liaiipiness. I will relate an occurrence which took place near evening, as a si-eci- men of mountain lite. A hunter, who goes technical" by the name of tiie Great HiiUy of the Mounta, .s, iiioinited his horse with a loaded rille, and challenged any Frenchman, American, Spaniard, or Dutchman, to liu'ht him in single combat. Kit Carson, an Ame- rican, told him, if he wished to die, he would acci'pt the challenge. Sbiiiiiir defied him; Carson mounted his horse, and with a loaded pistol rushed into close con- tact, and both almost at the same instant fired. Car- son's ball entered Shunar's hand, came out at the wrist, and passed through the arm above the elbow. Shunar's ball passed over the head of Carson, and while he went for another pistol, Shunar begged that his life might be spared. Such scenes, sometimes from passion and ponietimes for amusement, make the jiastimc of their wild and wandering lilc. They appear to have sought for a jilace where, as they would say, Innnan nature is not oppressed by the tyranny of religion, and plea- sure is not awed by the frown of virtue. The fruits are visible in all the varied forms to which human nature, without the restraint of civil government and cultivated and polished society, may be supposed to yield. In the ab.scnce of all those motives wi iich they would feel in moral and religions society — ri dneinent, pride, a sense of the worth of character, and even conscience— they give way to unrestrained dissolute- ness. Their toils and privations are so great, that they are not disposed to take upon themselves the labour of climbing up to the temple of science. And yet they are proficients in one study, namely, profnseness of language in their oaths and blasphemy. They dis- dain the commonplace phrases which prevail among the imjjious vulgar in civilised countries, and have many set expletives, which they apjiear to have manu- factured among themselves, and which, in their im- precations, they bring into almost every sentence .and on all occasions. Hy varying the tones of their voices, they make them cxiiivssive of joy, hope, grief, and anger. In their broils among themselves, which do not happen every day, they would not be tmgenerous. They would see " fair play," and would " spare the last eye ;" and would not tolerate murder, unless drunkenness or great provocation could be pleaded in extenuation of guilt. Their demoralising influence with the Indians has been lamentable, and tbcy have imposed upon them in all the ways that sinful propensities dictate. It is said they have sold them paoks of cards at high prices, calling them the Bible ; and have told them, if they should refuse to give white men wives, God would be angry with them, and punish them eternally : and on almost any occasion when their wishes have been re- sisted, they have threatened them with the wrath of G(k1. These things may be true in many instances ; yet, from personal observation, I should believe their more conmion mode of accomi)lishing their wishes has been by flattery and presents. The most of them squander away their wages in ornaments for their women and children. The Indians with whom I proposed to travel, having appointed the 21st to commence their journey for their country, a few days were occupied in writing to my family, the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, and other friends; and also in m.iking preparations for my journey to Walla- Walla. ■^^'hile we continued hare, though in the middle of the day it was warm, yet the nights were frosty, and ice frequent?^ formed. ^/w^AfVV%^ vww^ THOI.S TF.TOXS.-lliMT nV I'lF.nilF.S lIOT.F.-nr.SIUK OF Tin; l.NUlANSFOll UiaUilOIS IN.STHUtriON. AfcfsT 2Ut. — Commenced our journey in company with Cajitain Ilridgir, who goes with about fifty men six or eight days' journey on our route. Iiistcail of going (town on the south-west side of I.iwis Hiver, we decided on taking our course nortiierly for the Trois Tetoiis, which are three very high mountains, covcrcil with perpetual snow, separated from the main chain of the IJocky Mountains, and are si'cn at a very great distance; and from thence to Salmon Hiver. Went only about three miles from the place of ren- dezvmis, and encarijied. On the 22d, I parted with Dr Whitman, who re- turned with the caravan to the ITiiited States. My anxious desire was, that the Lord would go with him ami make his way jirosperons, and make him stead- fast to the object of his return, until it should be ac- complished ; and that, with next year's cara k-an, he might come with associates into tliis promising field, and they together reap a i)lentifiil harvest. To-day we travelled twenty miles, through a somewhat bar- ren country, .and down several steej) descents, and arrived at a valley called Jackson's Hole, where we encamped ujion a small stream of water, one of the upiMjr branches of the Colmnbia Hiver. It was inte- resting to find myself, for the first time, upon the M'iitcrs of this noble stream. The Indiiins were very .attentive to all my wants — took the entire care of my p.icked anim.ils, cooking, &c. They preserve parti- cular order in their movements. Tlie first chief leads the way, the next chiefs follow, then the common men, and after these the women and children. The place assigned me was with the first chief. Found some buflidoos to-day, of which our men killed a small number. These were a timely sujiplv', as our jiro-i- sions were becoming scarce. The principal cliie' of the Flatheads kindly furnished me with a horse to relieve mine. Sabbath, S.'id. — Had an opportunity for rest and devotional exercises. In the afternoon we made public worship with Captain Lridger's conijuMij-, who under- stood English. The men conduct'. ■mselves with great propriety, and listened with ai. "on. I did not feel any di'sjwsition to upbraid them i. ■ )nie distance we came to a red mountain of similar enaracter, ex- eei)tint; that the strata diiiped to the east, at an angle of -lO digrees. Jnone jilaee, whiiv tlie strata of roiks and earth were in waves nearly horizontal, a section a fuw rods wide, of a wedge form, had its waving strata in a peri)eiuliuular position, :is tlmugh the mountain had been rent asunder, and the ehasm tilled with the peipendieular wedge. A great diver;- y of the strata of rocks and earth prevailed in every part. IVwards the last part of the way through this narrow detile, we came to what a])pearedto bemagnesian liniestone, stratilied, of a brown colour, and very Iiard. As we passed on, we came to dark brown gypsum, like the gypsum found in the western jiart of the state of New York. Here, for some distance, 1 was nmcli anno^'ed with the strong scent of suljihuretted hydrogen, and soon saw at uie foot of the mountai'i, liuder the bed of gy])sum, a large sulphur si)ring, which sent uji about thirty gallons of water per minute. Around this sprnig were large quantities of encrusted sulphur ; and so strongly is the water saturated, that it eomniuni- cates to the Avater of the river, on the side next to the spring, a greenish-yellow tint for more than amile below. AVo passed more wooded land to-day than we had done since wo left Koek Independence; among which is Norway pine, balsam tir, d(mble spruce, and com- mon i)oi)iar ; some dwarf cedar and mulberry trees, and various siiecies of shrubbery which are not found in the United States. The Indians were verj' kind, .and seemed to vie Avith each other which coidddo the most for my comfort, so that they more than antici- pated my wants. Two little girls brought nie a quart of straNvberries, a rare dish lor the season of the year ; and an Indian brought me some service-berries, which iire pleasantly sweet, and somewliat resen)ble whortle- berries. AVe encamped upon a fertile jilain, surrounded by mountains, where, three years befor'', three men were killed by a small war party of Ulackfeet Indians. There were seven of the wliite men. and when they saw the Ulackfeet, they all tied in diderent directions, and by so doing emboldened the Indians to the pur- suit. Had they stood firm and combined, it is probable they would have escajied mihurt. We travelled fo\ir houis on the ii.")th, to another br.aneh of Lewis or Snake Kiver, and encami)ed in a large pleasant valley, conniioidy called Jackson's Large Hole. It is fertile, and well watered with a branch of Lewis l?iver coming from the south-east, and another of considerable magnitude from east-north-east, which is the outlet of Jackson's Lake, a very considerable body of Avater lying back of the Trois Tetons. There are .also many very large springs of water, of uncom- mon clearness, Avhich issue from the foot, of the sur- rounding mountains. This vale is well supj)lied Avith grass of excellent ((uality Avhich Avas very grateful to our horses and nudes. Flax is a spontaneous production of this country. In every thing, except that it is perennial, it resembles the Hax Avhich is cultivated in the Unit'.'d States — the stalk, the bowl, the seed, the bine flower, closed in the daytime and opened in the evening and morning. The Indians use it for making fishing-nets. Fields of this flax might be nauiagcd by the husbandman in the same manner as meadoAvs for bay. It Avould need to be mowed like grass ; for the roots are too large, and run too deep into the earth, to be pull.'d as i)nrs is ; and an advantage Avhich this Avonld liave is, that there Avould 'oo a s.aving of ploughing and sowing. Is it not worthy of exj)eriment by nw agricultural societies? Kentuc, my Indian, i)rought me to-day some very good currants, Avhi'di Avere a feast in this land. Theri- are several species yellow, jiale red, and black. T'iie yoliow and pale re. I were the finest Hiivoured. We continued in this encampment three days, to giv ir anim.als an oi)portunity to recruit, and for Capt.iin Bridger to fit and send out several of his men into the mountains to himt and trap. When I reflected upon the jirobability that I should not see the:n again in thi.^ Avorld, and .also that most of them would never return to their friends again, but wouhl find their graves in the mountains, my he.art Avas grieved for them, and especially at their thoughtless- ness about the great things of the eternal Avorld. I gave each of them a few tracts, for Avhicli they ap- peared grateful, and said they Avould be company for them in their lonely hours ; .and as they rode away, I coidd only lift up my heart for their safety and s.alvation. While Ave continued here, I took an Indian and AA-ent up to the top of a A'ery high mountain to take a vicAv of the scenery around. The prospect Avas as extensiA-e as the eye could reach, diversified Avith mountains, hills, .and plains. Most of the mountains Avere clothed Avith Avood, but the hills and ])lains Avere coA'ered Avith grass, presenting less of bright green, hoAvever, than might be expected, if the sunnners on this side of the mountains Avere favoured Avith rains as on the east. The Eocky ^Mountains, at the east, presented the ap- l)earance of an innnensely large bank of snoAv, or large luminous clouds skirting the horizon. The Trois Te- tons Avere in full vieAv, and not very far distant, in a northerly direction. They are a cluster of pointed mountains, not less than 10,000 feet high, rising almost perpendicularly, and covered Avith snoAv ; they are five in mmiber, but only three of them are so A'ery high as to be .seen at a f/reat distance, and hence their name. Here I spent much time in looking oA'cr the widely extended and varied scenerj', sometimes filled Avith emotions of the sublime, in l)eholding the toAvering mountains ; sometimes Avith pleasure, in tracing the Avindings of the .st'-eams in the vale boloAv ; and these sensations frequently gaA'e place to astonishment, in viewing the courses in Avhich the riA-ers floAv on their A\ ay, unobstructed by mountain barriers. After some hours occupi( d in this excursion, I descended to the encampment, nnich gratified Avith Avhat I had seen of the Avorks of God. The soil in this valley and upon the hills, is black and rich ; and the time Avill come, Avhen the solitude Avhicli uoav prevails Avill be lost in the loAving of herds and blea*'ng of flocks, and the plough Avill cleave the clods of these hills and vales, and from many altars Avill ascend the incense of prayer and praise. Tai-quin-Ava-tish took me to his company of horses, and gave me one in token of his friendship, probably not Avithout the motive to enlist me in favour of his tribe. The horse Avas finely mtide, and of a beautiful internnxed cream and Avhite colour. f)n the 28th, Ave removed our camp, and passed over a n.ountain .so high, that banks of snow Avere but a short distance from our trail. When Ave had aocended two-thirds of the Av.ay, i, •..iniber of buffaloes, Avhich Avere pursued by our Indians, came rushing doAvn the side of the mountain through the midst of our com- pany. ( )ne ran OA'er a horse, on the back of Avhich was a child, and threw the eiiild fardoAvn the desei.-:t ; but it providentially v.-as not nuiterially injured. Another ran over a packed horse, and Avounded it deeply in the shoidder. The buffaloes are naturally timid, yet Avhen they have laid their course, and by being affrighted are running at full speed, it is seldom they change their direction, let what will dc presented. I noticed nothing partiMiiarly new in geology, ex- cepting granite of very light colour upon the highest parts of the mountains. Our descent Avas through Avoods nunv dense than those on the other side, and more so than any Ave have seen since avc left ' he Avaters of ihe Missouri. Many parts of the descent Avero of almost impassable steepness ; and jiart of the Avay led down a rcmgh, deep ravine, in Avhich a stream of Avater connnences, Avhicli, increasing from springs and rivu- lets to a considerable magnitu through our encamp- ment and harangued the people, tlie ol)jcct of wjiicli was to iircpare them for defending themselves against fiu attack, should any enemies appear. Wo were mercifully preserved in safety through the night ; and arose on the morning of the 2d and went on our way, and performed a journey of twentj'-two miles over a very barren section of country. Tlie surface is com- posed of quartosc sand, intermixed with disintegrated amygdaloid, basalt, and obsidian. In some places were larire excavations, plainlj' indicative of ancient volcanoes, which had not assumed a conical form, but had spread out their melted contents in a level plaiii of hard lava or amygdaloid. In some places there were conical rocks, of different magnitudes at the base and of different heights — none perhaps ex- ceeding the diameter of three rods at the base, or more than sixty feet higli. They were universally divided in the centre, as though an exjjlosion had taken place after they were hardened. At some distance from us were some very interesting hills, rising in high cones many hundred feet; two of them I should judge to bo not far from three thousand feet high. I had no opportunity, however, of examining them. Wc arrived at a sn:all bninch of the Salmon River, which was the first water wc came upon throughout the dn^, upon the banks of which we found good grass for our horses. Hero, after encamping, Kentuc, my Indian, caught me some excellent trout, which was u very grateful change of food. We travelled on the .'5d four hours and a half, over a barren tract, as j'csterday, on which there is no vcge- tati(m except wormwood, which grows very large. We found no water imtil we came to the place of our en- campment, which was by a marshy vale, through which a small stream runs sluggishly. AVc found no wood, excepting v.illows ajid wormwood, in this and our last cncanipuieiit. Tliermometer, at noon, 0,5 de- grees. We travelled on the 4th five hours, and encamped upon a stream of water in Cote's Defile, which comes out of the mountains and is lost in the barren ])laiiis below. Cote's Detile passes through a range of high mountains, some of the topsof which are covered with snow. IMost of the day was uncomfortably cold : some snow-scpialls. Tlu'nnometer, at noon, 54 degrees. deceived a letter from Fort Hall, containing an invi- tation from Mr A. Haker to spend the winter with him ; but the object for which I liave p'lssed the Rocky Momitains re(iuired me to ])ursue my tour, and, if pos- sible, to reach the Pacific Ocean, and to return to Fort Vancouver before winter. We Ic rned to-day that a large band of Nez Perces was a few luiles lielow us, and would come to us to-morroiv. The Indians had become almost destitute of provisions, but to-day they killed a few buffaloes. The morning of the Hth was very cold. AVe con- tinxied in our encampment to-daj% to give the band of Nc^ Perces an opportunity to join us ; and about the middle of the day they came, theitrincipal chief inarch- ing in front, with an attendant carrying an American flag by his side. They all sung a march, while a few beat u sort of drum. As they drew near, they displayed columns, .and made cpiite an impr>oingappearanee. The women and children followed ii. liie rear. Tai-quin- wa-tish, and our other chiefs, arranged their people in the same order, and went out to'meet them ; and when we had approached within ten rods of each other, all halted, and a salute was fired, in which I had to take the lead. They then disnuuuited, and both bands formed into single file, and meeting, shook hands with each other in token of love, and to express their joy to see one come among them to teach them things per- taining to God and salvation. The principal chief of the other band, who is called Charle, and who is tlie first chief of the Nez Perce nation, is a good-looking man, his countenance rather stern, but intelligent, am' expressive of much decision of character. I never saw joy expressed in a more dignified manner than when he cook me firmly by tlie hand and welcomed me. In the afternoon I took Kentuc and rode five miles to see a prominence of interesting iippearance, which I found to be a mass of A'olcanie rocks. It is detached from the main mountain, stands on a plain upon the cast side of Cote's Defile, is .'.bout a mile in circumfe- rence at the base, and rises up abruptly, having most of the west side perpendicular. It is more than two hundred feet high, has a level horizontal summit, of cightj' rods long, north and south, and twenty rods wide. It furnisiies plain evidence of having been fused and thrown up by subterranean fires. In the evening I met with the chiefs and as many as could assemble in a lodge, and exi)lained to those whom I had not seen before the object of my mission. Charle, the first chief, arose and sjioke very sensilily for a consiik .'able time; mentioned his ignorance, his desire to know more about God, and his gladness of heart to see one who can teach him; and said, "I have been like a little child, feeling about in the dark after something, but not knowing what; hut now I hope to learn something which will be substantiid, and which will help me to teach my ])eople to do right." 1 told them that to-morrow wcmld be the sabbath ; and ex- plained to them the nature of the institution, and their obligation to remember and keep it holy. They ex- presi ■»4if-. BEVOND THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 2^ pr, Kcntuc, my t, vliicli was it (1 a lialf, over ii icro is no vcfje- very larfxe. Wc ilace of our en- vale, throutjU Wq found no 111, in this and at noon, 05 du- and encamped L', which conies e barren jdains , rancto of high re covered with ably cold: some 54 degrees, tainingan invi- le winter with issed the Kocliy )ur, and, if pos- ) return to Fort 1 to-day that a niles l)elow us, ic Indians had but to-day they old. Wc con- ive the band of and about the )al chief march- ig an American ch, while a few , they displayed [ipearance. The L'ar. Tai-quin- l their people in lem ; and when each other, all li I had to take nd both bands ook hands with ress tlieir joj- to C'lii things per- incipal chief of 111(1 who is the a good-looking intelligent, am' er. I never saw ner than when .'Icomed nic. rode five miles learance, which It is detaclicd plain upon the ilc in cireumfe- y, having most more than two ital summit, of id twenty rods i'iiig been fused and as many lained to those of my mission. ;c very sonsilily ignorance, his his gladness of I said, " I have I the dark after it now I hope to tial, and which rigiit." 1 told bbatli ; and ex- ntion, and their oly. They ex- pressed their desire to obey, and said they would not remove camp, but attend to the worship of God. Pro- videntially, tiiere came to us this afternoon a good in- terpreter from Fort Hall, so that to-morrow wc can have pubiic worship. Sabbath, Ctli.— Earl}' this n.orning one of the oldest chiefs went about among the people, and with a loud voice explained to them the instructions given them last evening; told them it was the sabbath day, and they must prepare for public worship. About eight in the morning some of the diiefs came to me and asked where tliey should assemble. I asked them if they could not bo accommodated in the willows which skirted tlie stream of water on which we were cn- cain])ed. They thought not. I then inquired if they could luit tak'e the poles of some of their lodges and eoiistnu*^ a shade. They tiiought they could : and without any otlier directions went and made prepara- tion, and about eleven o'clock came and said they were ready for worship. I found them all assembled, men, women, and children, between four and five hundred, in what I would call a sanctuary of God, constructed with their lodges, nearly one hundred feet long and about twenty feet wide ; and all were arranged in rows, through the length of the building, upon tlicir knees, with a narrow space in the middle, lengthwise, re- sembling an aisle. The whole area within was car- peted with their dressed skins, and they wore all attired in their best. The chiefs were arranged in a semicircle at the end which I was to occupy. I could not have believed they had the means, or could have known how to have constructed so convenient and so decent a place, especially as it was the first time public wor- shiii had been celebrated among them. The whole sight, taken together, sensibly affected me, and filled me with astonishment ; and I felt as though it was the house of God and the gate of heaven. They all continued in tlieir kneeling iiosition during singing and ])rayer, and when I closed jirayer with Amen, they all said what was equivalent in their lan- guage to amen. AVhen I commenced sermon, the}' gunk back u]ion their heels. They gave the utmost attention throughout, and entire stillness prevailed, excepting when some truth arrested tlieir minds Ibr- citily ; then a little humming sound was made through the whole asscmlily, occupying two or three seconds. I never siioke to a mcjre interesting assembly, and I would not have changed my then audience for any other upon earth ; and I felt that it was worth a jour- ney' across the Uocky Mountains, to enjoy this one opiiortunity with these heathen who arc so anxious to come to a knowledge of God. If Christia;is could have witnessed this day's service, th"y woulil have /c//, and they would be willing to do something adequate to the conversion of these perishing souls. An Indian boy about sixteen years old, who belonged to tlio liaiid who joined us yesterday, died this morn- ing. He was speechless when he was brought here. AVe attendeil his funeral in the afternoon. They buried liim in a very decent manner, without any heathen rites, exceiiting that they buried with him all his clothes and lilankets. I addressed the people at the giave ujioii the subject of the resurrection and of the judgment. This was entirely new to them, and very interesting. Tai-iiuin-wa-tish came to my tent towards evening, and said tiiat what I had told him was " tois," it was s|)iritual, and now he knew more; about (!od. After I had gone to rest, they sent for me to meet with them again in one of tlieir tents. IMoiiday, 7tli. — We travelled five hours to-day. The Indians make but slow progress in travelling with their village. It takes them a long time to iiaek and unpack, and to set up and take down their lodges. This is, however, of but little eonseiiueiice to them • for wherever they are, it is their home. They are very kind, and manifest their kindness in anticipating all, and more than all, my wants which tliey have the power to supply. They consult me upon all their important businc 5, and are very ready to follow my counsels. They are attentive to furnish little comforts. If the sim shines with much warmth into my tent, they will cut green bushes and set them up for shade. A few days since, wc encamped where there were some very fragrant plants of a species of mint; and the wife of Tai-qnin-wa-tish, with a few- other women, collected a considerable quantity, and strewed them in my tent. Passed to-day mountains of volcanic rocks, and over a rich black soil, where we found a good supply of grass for our liorses at night. Pursued our journey, on the 8th, as usual. Felt somesoienossin my breast, arising from a cold, which began yesterday. My licalth thus far on the journey has been very good. The Indian mode of living is very precarious, and yet they arc not veiy anxious about the future. When they have plenty, they are not sparing, and when they are in want, they do not complain. The Indians at this time were almost destitute of provisions, and wc were approaching the Salmon Elver mountains, to pass over which occupies between twelve and fifteen days, and in which there are no bufl'aloes ui.d scarcely any otlier game. I felt a prayerful concern for them, that (Jod would send them a supply before we should get beyond the range of buffaloes ; and was confident that we should experience the truth of God's word, that he provides for all their meat in due season ; and as the cattle upon the thousand hills .ire liis, so he would not withhold from these Indians a supply in their need. Continued to pass basaltic mountains ; and also passed some very white marl clay, which the Indians use for cleansing their robes and other garments made of dressed skins. Their mode of doing this is by making it into a paste, and rubbing it upon the gar- ments, and when it becomes dry, they rub it off, wliicli process leaves the garment soft, clean, and white. We encamped to-day where they had before made an en- campment, a 1" ' ">clow a steep bank. Near night I was alarmed by snouts of Indians and a general rush up the bank. I hastened up, and saw great numbers running towards our camp. It proved to be a foot- race, such as they frequently exercise themselves in, for the purpose of improving their agility. September 9tli. — Very unwell. To-day we unex- pectedly saw before us a large herd of buffaloes. All halted to make preparation for the chase. The young men and all the good hunters prepared themselves, selected the swiftest horses, examined the few guns they had, and also took a supjily of arrows with their bows. Our condition wan such, that it seemed that our lives almost depended upon the result. And while they were prejiaring, I could not but lift uji my heart in prayer to God, that he would in mercy give them judgment, skill, and success. They advanced towards the herd of buffaloes with great caution, lest they should frighten them before they could make a near aiiproach ; and also to reserve the power of their horses for the chase, when it should be necessary' to bring it into full requisition. When the bufl'aloes took til 2 aliirni and fied, the rush was made, each Indian selecting for himself a cow with which he happened to conic into the nearest contact. All were in swift motion scouring the valley ; a cloud of dust began to arise ; firing of guns and shooting of arrows followed in close succession ; soon here and there buttiiloes were seen prostrated ; and the women, who followed dose in the rear, began the work of securing the valuable acquisition, while the men were awaj' again in pursuit of the flying herd. Tliose in the chase, when as near as two rods, shoot and wheel, expecting the wounded animal to turn upon tiiein. The horses appeared to understand t^lc way to avoid danger. As soon as the wounded animal files again, the chase is renewed ; and such is the alternate wheeling and chasing, until the bufi'alo sinks beneath its wounds. They obtained be- tween fifty and sixty on this occasion. I ^i. 26 PARKER'S JOURNEY ll lath m fm It was interesting to see how expertly the Indians used the bow and arrow, and how well the women fol- lowed up the chase, and performed their part in dress- inf? those buffaloes which were slain. After travellinfj six hours to-day, we encanii)ed in a good i)lace, on the eastern branch of Salmon liiver, where it is of con- siderable magnitude. Tlie pain in my breast changed, and seated in my head, on tlie right side. On the lOtli my healtli was no better, and I was obliged to resort to medicine. I could say with the Psahnist, " I laid me down and slept, for Thou art with nie." We did not remove to-daj% time being neces.^ary for tlie Indians to dry their meat by what is called jerkimj. The process is to cut the meat into thin pieces, an inch thick, and to sjiread it out upon a fix- ture made witli stakes, upon wiiich are laid poles, and upon these cross sticks, and then a moderate fire is placed beneath, which partly smokes, cooks, and dries it, until it is so well freed from moisture that it can be packed, and will keep without injury almost any length of time. Here we made preparation for the remainder of my journej' to Walla- Walla, whici' will probably occupy about twenty days. September nth. — To-day the mostof the Nez Perces and Flatheads left us to continue within the range of buffaloes, that they might secure a larger store of provisions before winter, leaving, however, about one hundred and fifty to go Avitli me towards Walla- Walla Before they h'ft us, I experienced another token of their regard, in a very valuable present of twenty fine bufl'alo tongues, which are a great delicacy, together with a large quantity of dried meat. I reciprocated the kindness by making such presents as were in my power to bestow ; among which was a Britannia cup to the first chief, which he highly valued, and some writing-paper, requesting that this article might be presented to those "nissionaries whom 1 had encouraged him to expect next year. After travelling three hours, we encamped upon the same branch of the Salmon lliver, to give the Indians an opportunity' to dry tlieir meat more thoroughly. Pursued our journey on the 12th down the eastern branch of Salmon River for five hours. The valley through which this river runs is generally fertile, and varies from one to three or four miles in width ; but as we advanced towards the Salmon River mountains, the mountains upon each side increased in height and con- verged towards each otlier. They presented some noble prospects. It is a custom with the Lidians to send out numbers of their best hunters and warriors as scouts, in different directions, especially when they are appreliensive that any enemies may be near. We had evidence, from tracks recently made, that Indians of some other nation or tribe wore about us, and there- fore more than usual numbers of our men were out in flanking and advanced parties. On the bunks of the river down which we ..ere travelling, there was a dense growth of willows, extending, however, oidy a few rods into the bottom-lands. About two in the afternoon we were all very much alarmed to see our men who were out as hunters and guards upon the hills running their horses full speed in an ol)ii(iue direction towards us. Two of them were our principal chiefs. We knew that they had discovered something more than ordinary, but wlutt we could not conjectiwc. Being in a country where war parties of Blackfcet In- dians often range, • ar thoughts were turned upon dan- ger, and soon our fears were increased by seeing on tiie sides .t ' .a mountains at our left clouds of dust arise, and in i.ie obscure distance were seen men descending ns swl. tly as their horses could run. Tney were so far off that we could not determine who they were. At the same time our two chiefs on tlie hills halted and made signals which we did not understand. To add to our fears, some of the Indians said they saw Black- feet Indians in the willows, not far off, between us and the chiefs ; and our belief was confirmed tliat it was so by two deer rushing from the willows towards us, and when they saw us, instead of returning, they only declined a little to the left and passed before us. \\'e immediately halted, and made what preparation we could for battle. As we did not know in what jiart of the willows to make the attack, we were waiting for our enemies to commence tlie fire, and were ex- pecting every instant to have their Imlls poured in upon us. It was a moment of awful sus{)ense. We sent out a few men upon an eminence to our right, who returned without Iiaving seen any enemies. The two chiefs upon the hills, who were now joined by those who rushed down the mountains, and wlio proved to be some of our own men, applied their whips to their horses, and came to us at full speed ; and Cliarle, the first chief, rode up to me, and smiling, reached out his hand and said, " cocoil, cocoil" (linflalo, I uffalo.) This explained the mystery ; and the remainder of the day was spent in killing and dressing buffaloes, a much more pleasant occupation than fighting Ulackfeet In- dians. This made a desirable addition to their stock of provisions. Wo encamped in this place, which sup- plied plenty of good grass for our horses, and where there was no want of fuel. The inflammation in my head still continued, with throbbing, pain, and fever — my pulse beating one hun- dred a-minute. Bled myself and took medicine. Ther- mometer, at noon, 73 degrees. Sabbath, 13th. — ^ly health not improved, and my strength failing. I felt that all was right, and that I needed this trial to lead me to an examination of my spiritual condition, my motives for engaging in this mission, and whether I could give up all for the cause in whicli I was engaged. I felt, however, as though it was desirabl(! to finish my tour, and return and make mj' report, and urge the sending of missionaries into this field, which is white for the harvest, and to the bosom of my family and friends ; but still I would not have any will of my own, but say, Tlie will of the Lord be done. The Indians persevere in their kindness, and are very respectful, and ready to oliey as fast as I can impart to them instruction ; and tiiey say tliat wiiat I say to them is ditt'erent from any thing they have ever heard, being spiritual, and that they wish to have Sueapo (American) teachers. If tlie American churches will not send them teachers, criminality must rest upon tii 'iii for disobedience to Christ's authority. Are there any heatlien more anxious than these to be taught the way of salvation? and where are there so i'itw hindrances to the introduction of the gospel? They have no idols, no sacrifices, no power of caste to combat; and as yet, not the destructive influences which exist upon the frontiers. September 14tii. — ilecommei c. ■! our journey, and ](roceeded five hours down the river, and stopped a few miles above the main branch of Salmon River, wiiich comes from the south, and has its origin in two small lakes in the mountains north of Henry's Fork. For some distance on our way on the 1.5th tlie moun- tains came down near the river, rendering the valley through which it runs narrow. Some of these moun- tains terminate in high blufl's, which in many places present uncommonly interesting strata. Tlie lowest jiresented to view was white marly earth, about twenty feet in deptii, nearly horizontal and somewhat indu- rated i u])on this a green strata of aiiout four feet thick- ness ; next a strata of brown of about ten feet ; upon this a strata of red about the same deptli as the green ; over this a mould of decomposed lava. This marly eartli slightly efli'rvesces with acid. The rocks in most lilaces are basalt — ^in some places very fine wacke. Noticing some miusual appearances in the condition of the earth near the foot of the mountains on the left, I rode to the puic(>, and found a c'uster of volcanic erup- tions, which, tlumgh ancient, ajipeared more recent than any I had seen. A little way down the descent into one of the craters, I observed a petrified stump standing in its natural position ; its roots and the grain of the wood entire. I think it was cedar, and about BEYOND THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 27 iiig, they only ifore us. W'l- rt'iiariition wo ' ill what piirt ! were waiting mil were vx- alls poured in usponsf. Wo our rijiiit. who ios. Tlie two )inc(l by thoso ivlio proved to whii)s to tlieir lid Charle, the eached out his luffalo.) This der of the day "aloes, ii nmoii IJlackfeet In- to their stock ce, which sup- es, and where )ntinued, Avith ating one hun- edicinc. Tlier- "oved, and my ht, and tliat I lination of my paging in this il for tlie cause vvr, as tho;ig!i turn and make ssionarios into st, and to the ill I would not lill of the Lord kindness, and IS fast as I can say that what lini^' they have they wish to the American iniinality nuist ist's autliority. nm these to be re are there so f the gospel? wer of caste to tive inliuences • journey, and and stopped a Salmon River, 9 origin in two Icnry's Fork. .Oth the moun- fing the valloy )f tliese moun- 1 many places ,. The lowest 1, about twenty mewhat indu- "our feet thick- :en feet ; upon I as the green ; , This marly J rocks in most y fine wacke. lie condition of s on the left, I volcanic erup- l more recent ■n the descent L'triHed stump * and the grain lar, and about eighteen inches in diameter. This stood, undoubtedly, upon what was the natural surface of the earth, and the mound above and around was thrown up by vol- canic fires. While time is mouldering the lava into dust, the wind is scattering it over the country around, to renew the soil which was destroyed by the great cciillagration which once fused the whole of this west- ern region. This petrifie •, -wliile in otliers lie would PS and slide down ; and I I could not walk on foot, ion Ids 1 .ick. Frequently re won':'. l)e space enough if the i)nrest water to find e side of which would tcr- mountain, anpeared to be afraid to ascend higher. Attempts Avere made to obtain it, but without success. Saw in these monntains a new variety of strijied scpiirrel, only about half as large as those found in the United States ; also another kind, in every respect resembling tlio red squirrel except in colour. It is nearly black, excepting its under parts, which are reddish yellow. I observed, also, a kind of pheasant, which is smaller than the common species, somewhat lighter coloured, and more spotted: its habits are gre- garious, like those of the common quail. They were remarkably tame, as if unacquainted with enemies ; and when iissailed with stones by the Indians, appeared to bo amazed, and made scarcely any effort to escape. Their flesh was very good, and furnished an additional sujijily to onr waning stock of provisions. Sa1)b;ith, 27th. — Continued in our encampment. iMy health no better: perspired profusely last night, and j-et the inflammation was rather increasing. Took from my arm a iiint of blood, which, while it weakened, gave me relief. AVc had religious services in the fore and after part of the leasant weather in our passage over. Frequently heavy gales of wind sweep through these mountains, and njiroot the trees in the forests ; but avo had none to endan- ger US. ( In the 29th we proceeded down this branch nioro than half the day, and found the soil black and good, well covered with grass, which, howevr, was dried into hay by the summer drought. Here, as on most prairies, there is much want of wood, there being but little besides what is found along the streams of water. This country continues to be volcanic, as is evinced by the abundance of lava and basalt. Came at noon to six lodges of Indians, who welcomed nswith the same friendly expressions as did those where wo encamped the last night. Left the branch of the Cooscootske, and ascended wcsterl}' to the upper prairies, which are as fertile as tho lower, and do not sutler any more with the drought. After a long fatiguing ride over these jirairies, we descended into a deej) gulf almost enclosed with perpendicular walls of basalt, in the bottom of which we found a copious spring of water, by which we encamped. Arose very early on the.^Oth, set forward, and made good pi'ogress considering the exhausted state of (nir horses. Found most of the ■-trcams dried up, and one, which is generally large, and where we intended to have arrived last night, was wholly destitnte of water and grass. Ascending out of this gulf, we found, towards the summit of the high prairie, a good spring of water, with sufficiency of grass, where we refreshed ourselves at noon. The horses, contrary to my expec- tations, preferred the dried to tho green grass. In the afternoon we went through a section of country well sujijilied with woods, consisting chiefly of yellow pine and white oak, wdierc also much of tlic soil appeared to be good. Towards night we came to a stream of water running west, where we encamped. Thermo- meter 82 degrees at noon. Thursday, October 1st. — Arose early, with decidedly Tietter health, for which I cannot be too thankful. After travelling a few miles wc came to several lodges of Ncz Perces, who gave us their kind welcome, and seemed, as also at the other lodges, pleased to see their first chief. They manifested much the same feelings, on learning who I was and the object of my coming into their country, as did their countrymen whom we met at the rendezvous. With these Indians I left two of my horses which were too much exhausted with the fatigues of my long jourtiey to jiroceed anj' far- ther. I had fears that they would not endure the privations of the coming winter, without any shelter from the cold and sttirins, and with nothing to eat ex- cept what tliey could find U]ion the prairies. Arrived, two o'clock in the afternoon, at the Lewis branch of the Columbia River, near the confluence of the Cooscootske. Though this is a large river, yet, on account of the summer's drought, there is less water flowing down its channel than I anticipated. A squalid-looking Indian took us over tho ferry in a canoe which appeared as weather-beaten as himself, and reminded me of thefabled Charon and his cerulean boat. This country differs very much from what I had expected ; for while the .soil is generally good, and furnishes a supply for grazing, yet there is such Avant of summer rains, that some kinds of grain could not flourish, especially Indian corn. The crops sown in the fall of the year, or very early in the spring, would probably be so far advanced before the severity of th.o drought should be felt, that they would do well. In general there is a great want of wood for building, fencing, and fuel ; but at the confluence of these rivera a supply may be brought down the Cooscootske. This place combines many advantages for a missionary station. 30 PARKER'S JOURNEY ?ii i I iK'gan to doubt the correctness of the statements of some travellers, in regard to the great numbers of wild horses, and the immense multitudes of wolves, which they say they saw on this side of the Rocky Mountains ; for as yet I had seen no wild horses, and only a very few wolves. Encamped upon the west bank of Lewis Kiver, or, as it is more commonly called, the Snake Kiver. On the 2d we arose early, but were detained some time before all our horses could be collected. Set out abnging to the Hudson's liay Comjiany deserve connnendation for their gentle treatment of the Indians, liy wliich they have obtained their IViendsJiip and confidence, and also for tlie etforts ■which some few of thein have made to instruct those about tlicm in tlie lirst principles of o\u' holy religion, especially in regard toe(iuity, humiuiity, andnKjrality. This company is of long standing; tliey have origi- nated a vast trade, which they arc anxious to pre- serve, and tlierefore they consult tiie prosperity of the Indians as intimately connected witli tlieir own. I have not been informed as yet of a single instance of any Indian being wantonly killed l>y tlie men belong- ing to this eomiiany ; nor have 1 heard an\- boasting among them of the satisfaction taken in kiUing or abusing Indians, too frequently observable elsewliere. Tlmrsday, 8tli.— My three Walla-Walla Intlians having got all things in readiness — mats, provisions, &e., furnished by tlie kindness of ^Ir ranibnm — and he having given them tlieir instructions, I Avent on board the canoe at nine o'clock in the morning, and having given the usual salutations, we slioved oil" and gently glided down the river, wiiich here is three- fourths of a mile wide. I felt my.sclf in a new and strange situation : I was in a frail canoe, upon the wide waters of tlie Columbia, abounding witli rai)ids and falls, at the mercy of the winds, and among stranger Indians, two hundred miles by water before I could cxiieet to find white men ; and having to pass througli a territory inlial)ited lij' tribes of whose languages 1 was entirely ignorant. Yet the cliange from riding on liorsel)ack fiir months, over mountains and plains, through defiles and ravines, was anticipated witli satisfaction. Aly three Indians were well acquainted with the river and witli tlie art of managing tlie canoe. One of them understood tlie Nez IVree language tolerably well, was very loquacious and vain, and wished to lie thought a man of importance. lie told me he was to do the talking, and the otlicr two were to do as he .should direct. On account of his important and loqua- cious habits, I called liiin miiorutur. One of tlic other two, wlio took the stern ami steered the canoe, was a stout, brawny, savage-looking man, excei)ting the ex- pression of Ills countenance, wliicli was indicative of intelligence and good nature. The third, who took the bow, was an al)le, well-disposed j-oungman. The channel through the volcanic mountain a little below the fort is one of tlie Avonders of nature; it is formed tlirough solid basaltic rocks, which arc excavated, as it were, to the deptli of about three hundred feet, and for the distance of two or tliree miles. Ihit my at- tention was so nmeli taken up with tlie boiling eddies and the varying currents, that I diil not take tliose ob- servations wliieli, under different circumstances, niiglit have been made, and which the scenery and pheno- mena demanded. In one place, as we passed out of the mountain chamiel, the river ran so rapidly over a rocky bed, and tiie water was so broken, tliat I felt it unsafe to continue in the canoe, and retiuested the Indians to put me asliore. My talking Indian said tois (good.) 1 told him, u-uiilii tois, /lapscis, not good, but bad. But still he said, tois tois, and I concluded that they would not decline putting me on shore if there were any particular danger. The man at the Btern put off into the middle of the river, where the water was tlie smoothest, but where the current was ecpially strong, and, witli his keen eye fixed upon the varying eddies, ai)plied liis brawny arms to the woi'k ; and whenever a change of his paddle from one side of the canoe was necessary, it was done in the twinkhng of an eye. Any failure of right management woidd c have been disastrous; but they kept the canoe in tlie riglit direction, and we shot down witli siicli velocity, as. together with tlie breaking in of some water, was calculated to excite some little alarm. Hut this served to make tlie smooth jiarts nioiv ideasant, and my mind more traiiiiuil in regard to future dangiTs. At two o'clock in the afti'rnoon, we called at an en- caiiipnient of Cayuse Iiidiaiis, of aliont a dozen lodges. My orator, when we had come within hearing, an- luiimced our approach, and infijrmeil them who I was, and tlie object of my tour, and that tiiey must prc- jiare to receive me with all due respect; that I was not a trader, and that I had not come with goods, but to teacli tliein how to worship (Jod. They arranged tlieniselves in single lili', the cliiefs and jiriiicipal men first, then the more comnion men; next the women according to tlieir rank — the wives of ehiels, the old women, the young; and tlieii tlie children according to age. All things biing made ready, tlie salute was fired, and 1 landed and shook hands with all, even tlie youngest ehiliheii, many of whom, when they pre- sented the band, would turn away tlieir t";ues througli fear. I made them some presents, and liought of them some dried salmon and cranberries. These were the first cranberries I liad seen west of the Hoeky ^loun- taiiis, !ind their fiavour was most agreeable. The Indians expressed much satisfaction at seeing me, and with the object of my coming among them. I told tliein I could not exidain to them what 1 wished, but they must meet me next sjiriiig at Walla- Walhi. where I should have an interpreter, and then I would tell tlieni about God. After again shaking hands with tliem, wc went on our wiiy. At five o'clock we landed upon the north shore, and encamped near a large party of Nez I'erce Indians, who came about me with tlie same tokens of friend- liness wITuh uniformly characterise their nation. Among other acts of kindness, lliey lironght me wood, which in this section t)f the country is scarce, and gatliered small bushes and grass to make my bed upon. In return I made them some presents. October iitli. — Arose liefore day, and as soon as any liglit appeared, resumed our voyage down the river. The morning was pleasant, the eountrv around open, and diversified with rolling prairies iiiid distant nioiin- tain tops, mellowed with the opening beams of the rising sun. It was a time for pleasing contemplations, such as Ijanished all feelings of solitude, Jilthougb no sound Ijroke up-cin tlie ear but the regularly timed strokes of the paddles of my Indians, who were urging forward the canoe with an accelerated velocitv, greater than the current of tlie river would have carried us. The great fields of nature were spread out in silence. About the middle of the day, the stillness was inter- rupted b^' the roar of a distant rapid, the sound of which continued to increase, until the white breaking water was presented to view. For several miles the bed of file river was filled with rocks, and several rocky islands and shoals, iiniong which the whirling and foam- ing water was ioreing its way. Tlie only part of the river which presented any appearance of safety, was along the south shore. Tliis had somewhat the ap- liearance of a wake. My Indians made no movement for landing, but kept near the middle of the river. ( )n my expressing some apprehensions of danger, they jiointed toward the wake, and said, tois. 1 jiointed forward and towards tlie north shore, and said, hiiiscis, bad. They answered, tii, //o/iscis ; and, with tlie lan- guage of signs accompanying their words, told me t\wy woukl keep the canoe in the good water, and it w(nild not fill nor be drawn into the brealcers. My confi- dence in their skill of manageini'iit being well esta- blished, I made no objection to llieir going forward ; and in a very short time we had passed the apparent danger, and were gliding along over the smooth snr- fiice, on the south side of a large island, about six miles long. During the day, the country around was compara- 32 PARKER'S JOURNEY P t ll' tivcly level, covered Mith a Mack soil, wliich appears to Imve been formed by atmospheric agents deeom- posing the voleanic snbstances which so generally abound. Tiiis section of the country is well supplied witli grass, which during the summer drought is con- verted into hay. Wlio can calculate the multitudes of cattle and sheep wliich might be kept here summer and winter, with no otlier labour than the care of a few herdsmen and sliepherds ! Encamped upon the north side of the river, among some sand-hills, r little below several lodges of Walla- Walla Indians, to whom wo gave the usual formal salutation. I was pleased to find Indians belonging to different tribes scattered all along this river, living in harmony, without any feuds or jealousies. It speaks much in favour of their kind and peacealjle dispositions. On tlic lOtli, arose before day, after a night's com- fortable rest, and by the first breaking light we had our baggage on board and were under way. Towards the middle of tlic day wo came to a more mountainous tract of country, and at a place where the mountains crossed the river there were very rocky rapids ; but by winding our way among islands near the north shore, we made a safe descent. About noon, a head wind, which connnenced in the fore part of the day, had become so strong, and tlie waves began to multi- ply tlieir w'.;itc eai)s, that it was dangerous navigation for our canoe, and we had to land and wait for nun-e favounible weatlier. "We encamped on the north side of the river, under a very high and romantic basaltic mountain ; in some parts near us tlie rocky walls were more tlian two liundred feet in perpendicular height — in one place lianging over. In some places, and at different altitudes of this immense wall, there were cavitiesofeonsideral)lo magnitude, and in others wide and deep fissures, througli one of which passes tlie road travelled i)y pedestrians and those on horseback. This place is ten miles above the Falls of the Colum- bia, wliich the Indians call tlie turn tiiiii; the same exjiression they use for the beating of the heart. About a mile above us were encamped some Walla- Wallas, many of whom came to my tent and wished to enter into trade with me, offering nie beaver at a low price. I told tliem that trading was not my busi- ness, iuiy fartiier than to buy salmon, &c., for food, lly orator told me one of them was a iiwolidf, or chief, and would expect a present. As a trial of their disposition, I told him they had not brought nie any wood for a fire, and I would not give them any thing xnitil they showed their kindness. Hut he said I must make tlie eliief a present and buy of them wood. I replied, " Waiiiu ; if lie is a chief, let him show tlie generosity of a chief." Very soon they brought wood, and a fire was made, and I rewarded them with some presents. Sabbath, 1 Itli. — Continued in the same encampment, and had my heart's desire much excited for the sal- vation of these poor lieatlien. Tiiere were a sufficient number here to have made a decent congregation, had I had any medium of commimication. Their language diflijrs from the Nez Perces', so that I could have no communication with them except by my orator, who asked me if he sliould teach these Indians what he had learned about God and his worship. I gave him jier- mission, though I had fears he was influenced more by love of distinction than any higher motive ; but still, if any true light should be imparted to them, I would rejoice in it. I arose the latter part of the night of the 12th, and the weather being calm, and the moon shining plea- santly, we took our departure for the falls, where we arrived some time before day. Above the falls there is a large island, with a commodious bay at its south- ern extremity, near which, and upon the River De Shutes, which here unites with the Columbia, there is a village of the Fall Indians, of about thirty lodges. Here we landed, and my tiilker raised his oratorical voice to such a note as aroused the whole villiige, calling upon the cliicfs to arise, and with their people receive the personage with him in duo form. Their lino was soon formed, the first cliicf leading the way, and others according to their rank and age following ; and the ceremony of shaking hands being performed, all retired to their lodges again. There is a great want of neatness among Indians in general, but more especiidly among those on this river, who live by fishing. Here we left our canoe, and took horses and pro- ceeded by land, upon the south side of the river, by the falls, and down the La Dalles, six miles. From the lower end of the island, where the rapids begin, to the perpendicular fall, is about two miles ; and here the river contracts, when the water is low, to a very narrow space, and with oidy a short distance of swift water it makes its plunge twenty feet perpendicular, and then, after a short distance of rapids, dashing against the rocks, it moves on ii. a narrow passage filled with rapids and eddies, among volcanic rocks called the La Dalles, four miles ; and then spreads out into a gentle broad channel. At the falls and the La Dalles below, there are several carrying places, where boats and canoes as well as baggage have to be transported. The geological formation along this distance is singular. With the exception of a few high hills and bluft's, tiio shore and lands ai-ound are but little above the river in the freshet rise; and yet the clianncl of the river is through the hardest basalt and amygdaloid. Has this channel been worn by the water in this solid rock for- mation? If so, at what time ? There is no appearance of the channel having worn perceptibly deeper, since these rocks, from their melted state, assumed their present condition, which must have taken jilace many centuries ago. As I have no confidence in theories founded upon conjecture, nor in Imlian traditions, I leave it for others to discover how these tilings took place. At all events, tlie falls and La Dalles furnish a situation for water-power equal to any in any part of the world. Here, also, is one of the best locations for salmon-fishing, and where great number of Indians collect in the season of taking them, which commences at the end of April or beginning of May, and continues a few months. At the lower part of the La Dalles, I found Captain Wyeth, from Boston, with a small com- pany of men, going up the river to Fort Hall. Captain Wyeth, who is an intelligent and social)le man, had the charge of the business of a company formed in Boston, for salmon-fishing on the Columbia, and for trade and trapping in the region of the mountains. The plan of the company was to send a ship annually around Cape Horn into Columbia Hiver, to bring out goods for trade and to take home the salmon and furs which should be obtained through the j-ear. It was expected that the profits on the salmon would defray all ordinary expenses, and that the proceeds of the furs would be clear, and yield a handsome income. But thus fiir the enterprise has been attended with many disasters, and the loss of many lives: several of the men were drowned, and some killed by Indians. Here I dismissed my Walla-Walla Indians, and Tilki, the first chief of the La Dalles Indians, en- gaged to furnish nie with a canoe and men to carry me to Fort Vancouver. Encamped with Captain Wyeth, and obtained from him a short vocabulary of the Chenook language, to enable me to do comiiKJU business with the Indians residing along the lower part of this river. Tuesday, 13th. — I left this encampment at nine o'clock in the forenoon, in a canoe with three men furnished by Tilki, iind made good progress down the river, which flows in a wide and gentle current. Many parts of the way, the river is walled up with high and perpendicular basalt. At the La Dalles commences a wood country, which becomes more and more dense as we descend, and more broken with high hills and precipices. Noticed a remarkable phenomenon — ti'ces standing in their natural position in the river, in many places where the water is twenty feet deep, or even m a five: the! are r are < BEYOND THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 8S fl . TliC'ir lino the wiiy, imil 'ollowiiij; ; and [)orfornied, all ms Indians in ; on this river, rsc'9 and pro- e river, by the 'S. From tlie i betrin, to the and here tlie a very narrow swift water it liar, and tlien, g afrainst the go tilled with ' called the La t into a gentle Dalles below, icrc boats and e transported, lice is singular, and blufls, tlio bove the river of the river is iloid. Has this solid rock for- no appearance Y deeper, since assumed their en i)lace many ice in theories m traditions, I se things took Dalles furnish y in any part best locations liber of Indians ieh commences , and continues lie La Dalles, I th a small com- : riall. Captain able man, had )any formed in mibia, and for the mountains. I ship annually n; to bring out almon and furs I j-ear. It was n would defray ccds of the furs ; income. Hut ded with many several of the r Indians. I Indians, and 's Indians, en- . men to carry with Captiiin t vocabulary of to do common long the lower pmcnt at nine rith three men )gress down the current. Many ,1 with high and OS commences a ,nd more dense high hills and lomenon — trees e river, in many t deep, or evea more, and rising to high or freshet wntcr-inark, whiih is tifteen feet above tlie low water. Above the freshet rise, the tops of tlie trees are decavcd and gone. 1 de- ferred forming an opinion in regard to tiie cause, until I should collect more data. About the nii(l ''iches long, somewhat in the shape of a thorn, ' nrough the lower part of the cartilaginous division of the nose. I called at this village to obtain men to carry our canoe by the portage of the cascades. They wished to engago in trade with me in several articles of small value, wliich I declined, informing them that my business was of a difl'erent nature. Whilst detained here, tho daughter of the chief, fancifully decked out in orna- ments, and in all the pride and haughtiness of savago beaut.v, walked to and fro, to exhil)it to the best ad- vantage her fine, erect, and stately person. After considerable delay, I obtained four Indians to carry the canoe ahout one hundred rods past the prin- cipal r:i|ii(ls or falls, for which I gave each five charges of powtler and ))alls ; and an additional reward to one to carry a part of my bajgage a mile and a half past tho most dangerous rapids, to a basin just below another rapid, formed by large rocks confining tiie river to a very narrow passage, and througii which it rushes with great impetuosity. jNIy Indi.ans ran tho canoe over this rapiil. I vas much concerned for their safety ; but they chose to do it. Two years before this time, the men of the Hudson's IJay Company conW/crf seve- ral bateaux down this rapid — part of the men going in the boats, and part on the shore conlelling. Tlic ropo of one broke, and the bateau, in spite nf the elforts of tho men in it, was hurried out into the surging and whirling waves among the rocks — overset, and all were lost. I walked about four miles, until I had passed all tho rapids of any sjieeial danger. About three-fourths of a mile below the uppermost cascade, following an In- dian path, I came to a pleasant rising ground, ujion which were several houses of a forsaken village, which were both larger and more commodious than any I had seen in any Indian country. They were about sixty feet long and thirty-five wide, the framework very well constructed, and covered with split planks and cedar bark. A little behind these houses, thero is a small lake, in which a number of wild-ducks were sporting about. As I continued down the Indian path, .at no great distance from the village, I came to several depositories of their dead. They were built of planks split from balsam fir and cedar, about eight feet long, six wide, and five high, and well covered. At one end is what nniy be called a door, upon Avhich are paintings of various devices, which do not appear to be designed for any other purpose than that of ornament. Some had painting upon the sides as well as upon the doors. I h.ad witli me two Indians, who paid no par- ticular attention to them, more than we shoidd in passing a bnrying-ground. They pointed me to them, and made a short, solemn pause, without any actions which woidd indicate their paying homage to tho pictures or any other object. The number of these depositories I did not ascertain, as many of them were so far decayed as hardly to be distinguishable ; but of those in good condition there were eight or ten. Below this we passed several smaller houses than those above ; the floors sunk about four feet below the level of the groiuid, and the walls rising only about three feet above M PARKER'S JOURNEY I it. It wmiM Rconi that those were dosiprncMl for winter liahitiitioiis. hut at this timi' tiiuir ()ccii|)aiit.s wxrv ah- Ficnt. At tiiL' liistiiiicL' asaltic formation, situ- ated on the north side of the river, a i\w rods from the filiore, on a narrow strip of rich l)ott(jm-land, wholly isolated, risinj; noofeet perpendicular on the riverside, aiivi(rnin for j;ltMl;iy lor till' id iiiul siiiri'ily ('li:tn;;i' iiiul a : in nocasi' sity ■ i'.\iK<-'niy (iod iitiiblf. I ASTORIA Olt irtli side of till' lif sliore. upon irroiiiidi'd with {jrcat (listaiii'ii •ud with licavy LTsi'd, and pri'- th latitude 45 •22 di'firL'i's 50 linndivil niik'S iri' is stronuiy (.•if^iitwn rods lit one hundrt'il iliini'nt, and an ; small coinijass iitial buildiiifis nibcr of small 1 apiH'arancc. t in this fort, 1 lie miles below inbia with the L's by the name ■c that 1 mi^^ht sea-eoast, and oinnieneo ; and May J)acre of ',\ual)batli, OctolKT IJ^tli.— Tart of tlic day I retired to a small i)rairie back from the river, to lie free from the noise of labour in whicii the nun were inpiLred in prejiaiin;: for tbiir voya^'e; and |)art (if it I i>assid in the tate-rooni whicli was assiH;iu(l me. There is much reason to lament the entire disre^'ard manifested by many towards CocTs holy sabliath. His justice will not always be deferred. Those who will not sub- mit to divine authority must reap the fruit of their disobedience. Moiie can slight and abuse the mercy of (iod wiih imimnity. Monday, liitli.— The brif,' fell down the river with the fide about three miles, but anchored from the want of wind. In the afternoon 1 went on shore for exercise, taking' with nie a /i''(«(//'(/, that is, a Sandwicli islandiT, for assistance in any daiifjer. I made a lonu excursion tlirouf.;h woods and over i>rairiea, and found the country jileasant aixl fertile. The grass on the prairies was green, and migiit furnish subsistence for lierds of cattle. When will this widp-sprjading and fertile country be brought under cultivation and be filled with an industrious ])opulation? From time inuneinorial the natives have not stretcheil forth a liand to till the ground, nor made an effort to raise a single article of ])rodnce more than what sjjrings up spontaneously; nor will they, initil their minds are enligliteneil by divine truth. It is unlikely that any philanthroiiist, not uiuk.'r the influence of Christian principles, will ever engage in the self-denying work of enlightening their minds and anaising them from their indolence. As on our frontiers, so on these western shores, the work of destruction, introduced by those who slionid lie the friends of the Indian, is rap,' going forward. Tlie Indians in this lower counti^, , that is, below the cascades, arc only the nmiiants of once numerous and jiowerful nations. The evening was clear and pleasant, which gave us an oiiiiortunity of observing the comet which was dis- covered by Ilallcy in the year H)S2, and which was seen again in 1759, and now in 18.')5, proving its time of revolution to be about seventy-six and a half j-ears. Its train of liglit was very perceptible, and about twelve degrees in length. We had a favourable wind on the ^Oth, which, with the current of the river, enabled us to make ra])id pro- gress on our way. Among the many islands with which the lower part of this river abounds. Deer Island, thirty-three miles below Fort Vancouver, is worthy of notice. It is large, and while it is sufficiently wooded along the shores, the interior is chiefly a prairie, covered with an exidterant growth of grass and vines of diffe- rent kinds, excepting the grape, of which there is none of natural growth wx'st of the llocky Mountains. In the interior of the island there arc several small lakes, which are the resort of swans, geese, and ducks. This jbland was formerly the residence of many Indians, hut they are gone, and nothing is to be seen except the remains of a large village. Among some intcrc .ting islands of basalt, there is one called Coffin Kock, twenty-three miles below Deer Island, situated in the middle of the river, rishigtenor fifteen feet above high freshet water-mark. It is almost entirely covered with canoes in which the dead are dejiosited, which circumstance gives it its name. In the section of coimtry from Wappatoo Island to the Pacific t)cean, the Indians, instead of committing their dead to the earth, deposit tliem in canoes ; and these are placed in such situations as are nu)st secure from beasts of prey — upon such precipices as this island, upon branches of trees, or upon scaflblds made for the pur- pose. The bodies of the dead arc covered with mats, and split planks are placed over them. The head of the canoe is a little raised, and at the foot there is a hole made for water to escape. A few miles below Cofiui Island, the Cowalitz, a riverofconsiderablemnpnitudo,coniin(? from the north- cast, flows into the Colnmtiia, which Is about thirty rods wide, deep, and navigable for lioats a very con- sidiralilc distance. The country ii|> tliis riviT is said to c(|ual In richness of soil any part of tlii' ( )i'cgon ter- ritory, anil tube sodiversifii'd with woods and prairies that till' farmer coidd at once reap the fruits of his labour. Anchored for the night, on account of nnmcrous sand-bars and the windings of the navigable channel. Till evening was cloudy, and there was tlu' apiicarance of a gathering storm ; Imt we were so surrounded with high hills that the situation was considered safe. The wind on tlie -J 1st was light, which rendered our )irogress slow. This section of the country is moun- tainous, the ranges rmmiiig from the south-east to the north-west, and covered with a very dense and heavy growth of wood, mostly fir and oak. A chief of the Skilloots, w itii a few of his ]uo]ilc, came on board. He was very talkative and sjiortivc. AVIien he was about to leave, he told Ca]itain Lambert, that, as they had been good frieiuls, and were now Hbout to separate, he wished for a jiresent. The cajitain told his steward to give him a sliirt. The cliief took it and \nit it on, and then said, "Ilownnich better woidd a new pair of ]>antaloons look with this shirt." Cai)tain Lamliert ordered him the article asked for. " jN'ow," said the chief, "a vest would become me, and increase my influ- ence with my people." This was also given. Then he ad''cd, " Well, Tic,* I supjiose we shall not see each ifbi r again ; can you see mc go away without a clean blanket, which would make me a full rorTn or THE COLVMBIA.- PACIFIC OCEAN. When we arrived in the small bay upon which Fort George (Astoria) is situated, Captain Lambert manned a boat to take me on shore, in which lie al^io f mbarked to pay his respects to the ^'ovcrnor, who had the polite- ness to meet us at the landing, and invited us, with iiearty welcome, to his dwell! us- After having inter- changed the customary salutations and made a sliort stay, the captain re-embarked and made his ^vay for Cape Disappointment; and the Avind and tide br .j; favourable, without any delay he passed the dan^Acrous bar, and shaped his course for lioston. Fort C Jorge is situated on the south side of the bay, ten n.iles from Cape Disappointment. It consists of only two small buildings made of :iewn logs ; and possesses about two acres of cleared land, a part of wlii. h is planted with potatoes and garden vegci \l)les. It is occupied by two white men of the Hudson's Bay Company, for the pur- pose of trading witk the few remaining Indians who reside along these shores. Though this is the present condition of Astoria, yet the time mvst come, when at the mouth of this noble river there will be a busy commercial city, especially as this bay atfords the onlj good harbour for a long distance on this coast. I > iOuld think the north side of t:ie bay, u little above the cape, adjoining what is called Baker's Ba; , would bo the most desirable location for a town of this de- scription, as that is the safest place for ships to ride at anchor ; and the country is there more open and better adapted for th^ purpose. On the south side, where Astoria was. located, the mountains or high hills come down very near the shore, and are rocky and precipitous, preventing- a southern prospect; and in the short winter days of a north latitude of 46 degrees 17 minutes, they almost exclude the sun. A Hfficulty of such a nature as is not easily over- come, exists in regard to the navigation of this river, namely, the sand-bar at its entrance. The bar is about five niiics ..cross, from Cape I.^isappointniunt (,i't to sea. In no part of that distance does the water ex- ceed eight fathoms in depth ; in one place it is only five, and the channel is not more than half a mile wide. A heavy swell sets in constantly from tlic ocean, and ivhen the wind it above a gentle breeze, there are breakers quite across the bar, so that there is no passing it except when the wind and tide are both favou/aljle. Without the bur there is no anchor- age, and there have 1)een instances in the winter sea- son, of ships lying off and on thirty days, Avaiting *br an opportunity to pass ; and a good pilot is alwi.j's needed. Pf -.haps there have been more lives lost here, in proportion to the number of vessels wh,ch have entered this river, than in entering almost ary other harbour in the world. But these calamities hav? been less frequent for art of America of which I have any 1 o«]?dgc. Tlie trees are almost all of the pine genus, but I saw noni' of the species commonly cidled pine any Avhcrc below the cusciidcs. The balsam-firs, of which there are throe species, are Iiy far tlie most numerous of the forest trees. White cedar, spruce, hemlock, and yew, are interspersed. Three species of oak, of which tlie white is the most common, arc scattered in smal' dumps ; and in some low bottom-lands, the specie.^ of poplar commonly called the balm of Gilead, and by some, bitter cotton- >vood, is most general. The balsam-fir ^rows very large — not unfrequently four and six feet in diameter, and two Inmdred feet high. I measured one which was eight feet in diameter, and about two limdred and +it'ty feet higli; but as I do not here intend to enter upon tlie dendro'.ogy of this country, I leave this sub- ject for the present. There are some tracts of good land, which might easily be brouglit under cultivation, in difl'ei.at parts of this niuuiitainous and iron-bound coast. One about Young's Bay, extending down to and around Point Adams, would be a favourable location for a mis- -ionary station, as from thence accesis coidd he had to the Clatsop and Killamook Indians, who arc said to be numerous. At this season of the j-ear, few Indians reside in the vicinity of this trading post. They find it more CO-' Jucivo to their comfort to retire into the forests during the rainy season of the winter, locating them- selves upon small prairies along rivers and streams, where fuel is easily obtained, and where some game is found to add to their winter stock of provisions. During my continuance in this place, it was my in- tention to cross the bay to Chenook I'oint, and proceed from thence down to Cape Disappointment, which it is said affords a very extensive and interesting pro- spect. But from day to day it rained, with high winds, which created such a sea in the whole bay, that it was not safe to attempt the jiassage. On the 24th the wind was high, and tlic weather very uncomfortable ' and in the afternoon the storm increased, accompanied with snow, which, however, melted as soon as it fell. The sea-fowl appeared to T o alarmed by the severity of so early and unexpected a storm of snow, and came in from the ocean in great members, flying and screaming, as if in oeareh of a safe retreat. The btorm being somewhat moderated on the f Gth, Mr Dunn, the superintendant of the fort, and myself, for exercise, took our riiler to go back into tlie woods to hunt deer. But so den» ; was the forest, so filled and interwoven with various vines and shrubbeiy, that it was next to Impossible to make anj'' progress. In fact, we had not advanced above a mile, before wc gave up the object and turned our course back, which, notwithstanding.'' diligent etforts, occupied some hours. If a luxiu'iant growth of tree= and shrubbery is indi- cative of a rich soil, then no part of tlie world can sur- pass the country about these shores. The morning of the 27th was pleasant and inviting for a water excursi' n ; but, on account of the sudden changes of weather wiiic". . re common at this season of the year, I did n. t think it i^afo to cross the wide bay, but took fmr Chenook Indians, and a half-breed named Tiiomas Pish Kiplin, who could speak English, and went in n large canix; down to Clatsop and I'oint Adams, nine miles from the for*-. There was a gentle wind from th" east, which enabled us to hoist a small sail ; and we rwepr along pleasantly, at the rate of eight miles an hour. Bv this lime ti;e waves had so in- creased, and ic ,vhite Cfips wero so numerous, tha*- to one not acquainted with nantieid adventures, the dan- ger in a canoe appeared considerable. We could do nothing except to run before the -"'ind ; and when wc were upon one wave, it seemed the next plunge would swallow us up. Fears were of no use in tiiis situation, and I therefore kept up such conversation ns was cal- culated to suppress any which might a ise in the minds of the men. It was interesting to sec how the Indians would take the waves M'ith their paddles, so as to iivvour the safety of the canoe. But our rapid r BEYOND THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 87 vec species, are it trees. White 'e interspersed, lite is tlio most s ; and in sonio iliir commonly ;, bitter cotton- fir ^^rows very jet in diameter, ired one wliieli ro limdred and intend to enter leave tliis sub- I, which might I ditt'e;.-ut jiarts last. One about 1 around Point ion for a mis- could be had to vho are said to dians reside in ley find it more into the forests locating them- 's and streanis, e some game is irovisions. e, it was my in- int, and proceed :inent, wliich it nteresting pro- 'ith high winds, bay, that it was id the weather loon the storm liich, however, I appeared to ] o d unexpected a ocean in great in (iearcli of a red on the ''Gtli, art, and myself, into the woods forest, so filled shrubbery, that y progress. In mile, before wc •so back, which, lied some hours, •ubbery is iudi- ? world can sur- jit and inviting t of the sudden II at this season cross the wide nd a half-breed I speak English, itsop and I'oint ere was a gentle to hoist a small tlie rate of eight vcs had so in- merous, thu- to itures, the dan- We could do ; and when wc :t jilunge would II this situation, tion MS wascal- it aJsc in the to sec how the leir paddles, so But our raiiid progress soon brought us to the shore ncr Point I Adams. Here a new ditliculty, and unexpected tr .iie, j arose, which was, how we sho'ild ' uul in the high surf; but mj- skilful mariners w: telien an opportunity to shoot the canoe f(irward as far as possibl- "ii a flow- ing wave, and as socn as it broke, they leaped into the water, seized the janoe, carried it quickly over the returning surge, and drew it up beyond the reach of the waves. Tins management was an ocular demon- stration of the skill of Indians on dangerous seas. I took Kiplin with me, and walked several miles on the hard and smooth sandy beach, so far arouud to the south that I had a view of the coast north and south, as far as the ej'e could reach. Higli, and in most parts perpendicular, basaltic rocks lined the shores. Who but that Being who sets bounds to the sea, and has said to the proud waves, Ilitlierto shall ye come and no farther, reared these volcanic walls? This vast expanse of ocean and these stupend'jus works of God naturally fill the mind with awe. In returning, I walked several miles fartl.er than the place where wc landed, along the shores tcwards Young's Bay, und went ou board the brig Lama, Cap- tain M'Xiel, which was on its way up to the fort. In my excursion about Clatsop and Point Adams, I saw several canoes containing the dead, deposited as I have already described. I have mentioned Sand Island and the bar at the mouth of the Columbia as dangerous to those who are not well acquainted with the entrance into this river. In tlic year 1828, the shii) William and Ann was cast away a little witliin the bar. All on board, twenty- six in number, were lost ; and it could not be ascer- tained what were the circumstances of the lamentable catastrophe, as no one was left to tell the story. It was generally supposed, that, after the ship ran aground, the Indians, for the sake of plunder, had killed the crew. This is only conjecture ; but it is certainly strange, as they were not far ^'rom the shore, and the beacli was sandy, tl.at none escaped. The Indians carricT off and secreted whatever of the goods they eoulJ find. The gentlemen of the Hudson's Bay Comjiany sent to the chiefs to deliver up what they had taken away. They sent'lDr IM'Laughli i at Fort Vancouver, two small articles of no value. Dr M'Laughlin, with an armed force, went down to the Cheiiooks, and demanded a surrender of the goods. The cnief with his warriors put himself in tiie attitude of resistance, and fired upon the men of the Hudson's Bay Company. They re- turned the fire with a swivel, not to injure them, but to let them know with what fo'^ce they had to contend ifthe' persisted in their resistance. Outhis thclnutans all fled into the woods. The doctor landed witli his men and searched for the goods, many of which they found. Whilst they were searching, the chief was seen skulking and drawing near : he cocked his gun, but before he had time to fire one of the white men shot him down. None besides were hurt. ThisAvus done, as the people of the Hudson's Bay Company eny, not so much for the sake of recovering the property, as to teach the Indians not to expect profit from sucli disasters, and to take away tenixitation to murder white men for the sake of plunder. On the 23d of IMay 18.30, the ship Isabella was cast away upon a sand-bar projecting from Sand Island, which is a little within the capes. As soon as she struck, the men all deserted her, and without stopping lit Port George, made their way to Port Vancouver. It is thought tliat, if they had remained on board and waited the tide, she might have been saved. The cargo was mostly saved. In 1811, me Tonquin, sent out fron. New York by Mr Astor to form a fur trading estallishment at or near the mouth of this river, lost eight men in crossing the bar. The calamity resulted from Captain Thorn's ignorance of the dangers, of the navignticri, and his great ^vant of prudence. About thirty miles south of this river there arc the remains of a ship sunk not far from the shore. It is not known bv whom si.e was owned, nor from what part of the world she came, norwlicn cast away, .ilie Indians frequently get bees-wax from her. It is not im])robable that she was from some i)art of Asia. A Japanese junk was cast away fifteen miles south of Cape lla^tery in March 183;5. Out of ^.eventcl:n men, only three were saved. In the fi;lIowiiig May, Captain Jl'Xei.' of the Lam;., brought tiie three sur- vivors to Fort Vancouver, where they were kindly treated by tlie gentlemen of the Hudson's Bay Com- pany ; 'uid in the fol'owing October they were sent in one 01 cheir sliips to England, to be forwarded to their own country and home. This junk was laden with rich China ware, cotton cloths, and rice. In the same year, eleven Jajjanese, iu distress, were drifted in a junk to Oahu, Sandwich Islands. It is not very un- common for junks and other craft to be found by whale-ships in the great Pacific ( )cean, their crews in a state ot .starvation, without the nautical instru- ments and skill necessary to enable them to fnul their way to any port of safety. Undoulitedly, many are entirely lost, while others drift to unknown shores. May not the above i'r.ois throw liglit upon tin., ori- ginal peopling of America, which has eni: d the attention of men for a long jicriod. While onc^ muii demonstrates to his own satisfaction that the first in- habitants of this continent must have crossed from the north-east of Asia, because of the reseml)laiice of the people to each other, and the ease with which tlie strait is passed in canoes — another, witii no less cer- tainty, provis, from the diversity t.f languages, from the impossUiility of tracing their origin, and from other reasons, that an equinoctial union of Africa and Ame- rica must have existed in some age of the world since the universal deluge, and that some violent convulsion of nature has since dissevered them. Others would con- fine them to tlie descendants of the Jews, and indus- triously trace in their customs the ancie:it woisliip and rites of God's ]K'culiar jieople. But on this jioint, their own traditions and the histories of more civi- lised nations are alike silent. Physical causes alone are sufticiently adequate to account for the many fea- tures of resemblance which they jiossess, even though tliey might at various and distant jieriods of time have been drifted, or in any other manner found their way from difierent and remote countries. About this time of the year, water-fowl of various genera and species begin to visit the bays and lagoons, and as the season advances, they gradually iiroceed into the interior of the country, and the rivers and lakes abound with them. Geese, swans, ducks, and gulls, wing their way over us, and their screams, par- ticularly those of the swans, are at times alnn.st deafening. The swan is not the one common in he United States. It is the Bewick's swan ; but is cha- racterised by the same unsullied plumage, its attitudes and motions, while sailing over its liipiid element, arc equally graceful, and its voice even louder and more sonorous. Of the geese there are four kinds — the white, the white-fronted, the Canada, and Ilutchin's. Of the ducks, there are the black or surf duck, tlie canvass- back, the blue-bill, the loig-tailed, the harle(iuin, the pin-tail, and the golden-eyed. The numbers J these water-fowl are immense. They constitute a large item of Indian living and trade, and find a consi»icnous place upon the tidiles of the gentlenion engaged in the fur business. Wednesday, October 28th.— Captain M'Xeil of the Lama, which vessel has been on a northern voyage to Queen Charlotte's Island, having occasion to send a canoe with an express to Port Vancouver, I cm- braced the opportunity of returning. The canoe was large, carrying about fifteen hundredweight, includ- ing men and baggage, and manned by three wliite men and three Indians, The day was pleasant, more so than any we had had for some time past, which was a I favourable ciix'unistancc for passing through the bay r — »'^ 38 PARKER'S JOURNEY 1111(1 around Tonj^iie Point, wliere tlie current was so stronjf, that it required the full exertions of tlie men to double it. Ten miles fartlier we passed I'ilhir Hoek, a few miles aliove wliieli we eneaniiied, on tlie north shore, where the inoiintaiiis eanie down so elose to the tvater, that there was hardly found room to jiiteh my tent above hiicli tide mark.' The men made a eoiii- fortable fire, and proceede; shelter was very desirable, to protect us from the storm and to give tlie men an opportunity to dry their clothes. Whilst wc were jireiiaring and eating our breakfast, th': flowing tide, which elevates and slackens the current, but does not stop it, floated our canoe from its moorings, an have been pleasant and full of interest. So diversified has been the couiitry through which I have passed, so varied the incidents, and so few the real hardships, that the tiuie and dis- tance have both appeared short. Although this mission was thought by the secretaries of the board to be one whidi would probably he attended with as great if not greater dangers and privations tlian any whieh they have sent into any part of the world, yet my suffer- ings have been .so trifling, and my mercies so great, that I can say, if this is taking up the cross, let none lie dismayed; for surely Christ's yoke is easy and 111.1 burden light. I had thought much on the prospect of having an o])portuiiity to see whether I could " rejoice in sullerings" for the heathen, " and fiU up that which is behind of the afflictious of Christ, ia my flesh, for -la; BEYOND THE ROCKY iMOUNTAIXS. 39 il and to give the 2S. AVhilst V (.■ st, til'.' ttowini>' J current, but I its inoorinffs, lown the river, pthe Cowalitz, 1 their c.inoes, ['turned with it et of lngii generally very rainy at this season of the yeai , anc' ■ isliing to explore the country up the Wil- lamette Kiver, 1 embraced an ojiportunity of going with a Mr Lucier and family, who were returning in a canoe to their residence, about fifty miles up that river. Doctor Jl'Laughlin fiirnisiied and sent on board a large stock of provisions, three or four times nun-e than 1 should need, if nothing should occur to delay us, but which was a wise jirecaution. We left Fort Vancciver about one o'clock in the .afternoon, and proceeded five i".iles down the Columbia to the entrance of the Multnomah, and about fifteen up the Willamette, before we encamped. The name Multno- nah is given to a sMiall section of this river, from the name ol' a tribe of Indians who once resided about six miles on both sides, from its contluence with the Co- lumbia to the branch which flows down the southern side of the Wappatoo island; above this section it is called the Willamette. The tide sets up this river about twenty miles, to within a few miles of the falls, and through this distance the river is wide and deep, art'ording good navigation for shipping. The country about the Multnomah, and also some miles up the Willamette, is low, and much of it :s overflowed in the June freshet ; but as we ascend, tne banks become higher, anil are more generally covered with wood. Mr Liicier told me he was well acquainted with the country around ; that a little back from the banks of the river there are fine tracts of rich prairie, suffi- ciently interspersed with wood for all the purposes of fuel, fencing, and lumber. As we advanced, ii chain of inoinitiiins, runir ly; from thesouth-east to the north- west, and which crosses the Columbia River below Deer Islanil. runs some distance near and below the falls along the west shores of this river. There are probably as many Indians on this river as on anv in the lower country, many of whom I had an opportu- nity of obser viiig to-day in their busy jiursi.its, the strokes of their ])addlcs every now and then breaking in upon the general silence, ('"c company overtook us towards evening, and encamped with us njion the elevated shore on the cast side of the river. ( )wing to the dampness of the day and previous rains, we had some ditticn'tj- in making a fire, but at length it was accomiilished, and the wood was unsparingly a])i>lied. With my tent jiitched before it, under the cano])y of wide-branching trees, I partook of the stores of my large wicker basket with as iiiucli satisfaction as could be felt in any si)lendid mansion. The blaze of dry crackling fir threw lirilliaiicy around, softened by the dark forest, like the light of tl;e astral lamp ; and the burning balsam perfumed the air. The latter part of the night I suttered more from the cold than at any time during my journeying, not having taken with me as many l)lankets as the season ren the surrounding trees, produced one of those ]ii(> turesquc scenes, whicli works of art may imitate but which are only seen jierfect in nature. Soon after re- suiningthe labour of the day, we passed several liasaltic islands, some of them of sufticicnt magnitude to enclose a few acres, others only rocky points, between wliicli the current was strong, requiring much effort to nnike headway. Fart of the way from our last encampment to the falls, which was six miles, I walked along upon the jiebliled shore, where I found tolerable specimens of calcedony, agate, jasjjcr, and cornelian. Two miles below the falls there is a large stream which comes in from the south-east, culled I'uddingKivcr. Its entrance makes a strong current, which we found difficult to stem ; at first we were drifted back in spite of all our cfl()rts, but on the second attempt wc succeeded. Wo arrived at the falls of the Willamette at one o'clock in the afternoon, and hired eight Clough-e-wall-hah Indians to carry the canoe past the falls, tlie distance of half a mile, and proceeded aVtoutfive miles farther and encamped. These falls, with the scenery around, have much to charm and hiterest. The river aliove spreads out into a wide, deep basin, and runs slowly and smoothly until within half a mile of the falls, when its velocity increases, its width diminishes, eddies are formed, in which the water turns back as if loath to make the plunge, but is forced forward l)y the water be- hind ; and when still nearer, it breaks upon the volcanic rocks scattered ac"oss the channel, and then, as if re- signed to its fate, smooths its agitated surges, and is precipitated down an almost perpendicular height of twenty-five feet, in the form of a whitened column. It was a delightful day, the rising mist formed in the rays of the sun a beautiful bow, and the grass aiiout the falls, irrigated by the descending mist, was fresh and green. The rocks over which the water falls, and along the adjacent shores, are amj-gdaloid and basalt. The opportunities here for water-power are eipial to any that can be named. There cannot be a better situ.ation for a factory-village than on the east side of this river : a dry wide-sjiread level extends some distance, and the shores form natural wharfs for shipping. The whole country around, particularly the east side, is pleasant and fertile. Andean the period be far distant when there will be here a busy population? I could hardly persuade myself that this river had for many thousand years poured its water constantly down these faUs, without having facilitated the labour of man. Absorbed iu these contemplations, I took out my watch to see if it was not the hour for the ringing of the bells. It was two o'clock, and all was still, except the roaring of the falling water. I called to remembrance, 4" ! 11, 40 PARKER'S JOURNEY si f that in the year 1809 I stood by the falls of the Genc- BC'u River, and ull was still except tlie roar of tlie cata- ract. But it is not so now ; for Kochester stands whei'e I then stood ! Wednesday, 25th. — As soon as the day da\vned, we ■went on board the canoe, and pursued our way nj) the river, which runs for thirty miles in an easterly di- rection ; and at half-past one we arrived at jVl'Key's settlement. This and Jarvis's settlement, twelve miles above, contain about twenty families. The men are mostly Canadian Prenchmen, with Indian wives. There arc a very few Americans. The Frenchmen •were labourers belonging to the Hudson's 15ay Com- pany, but have left that service, and having families, they have commenced farming in this fertile section of country, which is the best of the Oregon territory which I have as j'et see... It is wel' 11 versified with woods and ])rairies, the soil rich ani i '" ir'itly dry for cultivation, and at the same tiuu: '> atered with small streams and springs. These rs, re- cently become farmers, cultivate the most v^ommon useful productions, particularly wheat, to as great an extent as their wants require ; and a grist-mill has just been finished. They have a common school in each settlement, taught by American j'oung men, who seem zealous in the performance of their impor- tant task. The forest-trees are mostly oak and fir, the latter growing remarkably tall. The n)istletoe is seen every whore, attached to the trunk and large branches of the oak, its beautiful dark green foliage relieving the nakedness of the winter prospect. On Thursday the 26th, I rode twelve miles to the upper settlement, and was delighted with the appear- ance of the country. For richness of soil and other local advantages, I do not know where to find a spot, even in the valley of the Mississippi, superior to this. I saw on the way a large numljer of horses, lately brotight from California, fattening upon the green luxuriant grass of the prairies. Near this upper settlement, a short distance iip the river, the Methodist Church of the United States has established a mission among the Calapooah Indians, of ■whom there are but a few remaining. The Rev. Messrs Jason Lee and Daniel Lee are the ordained mission- aries, and Mr Shepard is teacher. Their principal means of usefulness for the present, is by the school attached to the mission, at which fourteen Indian children are now maintained and educated, with the prospect of obtaining others as fast as they can be accommodated. Their facilities in this respect are great, as they can cultivate as nmch excellent land as they wish, and raise the necessaries of life in abun- dance, with little more labour than what the scholars can perform. The nassionaries have an additional opportunity of usefulness, namely, in endeavouring to establish a Christian influence among the people of these infant settlements. Mr J. Lee preaches to them on the sabbath ; and they have a very interesting sab- bath school among the half-breed children. These children generally have fair complexions, active minds, and make a fine appearance. In all likelihood, this mission will lay a foundation for extensive usefulness. There is yet one important desideratum — these mis- sionaries have no wives. Christian white women arc Tery much needed, to exert an influence over Indian females. The female character must be elevated, for until this is done but little improv '^nt can be ex- pected ; and females can have access to and influence over each other, in many departments of instruction, to much better advantage than men ; while the model ftirnishcd by an intelligent and jiious family circle, is that kind of practical instruction which, whether at home or abroad, never fails to recommend the gospel. At the time of my continuance in this idace, an epidemic of a somewhat singular character prevailed among the Indians, of which severid persons died. The subjects of the complaint were attacked with a Beverc pain in the ear, tdniost instantaneously, wliich soon spread through the whole head, accompanied with great heat in the part aflccted, while the pulsu became feeble and intermittent. In a short time the extrenuties became cold, a general toi-j'or spread through the whole system excejit the head; stupor succeeded, and in a short period the patient died. In some cases tlie attack was less sudden and severe ; the I)atient lingered, and after some days convalesced, or continued to sink, mitil death put an end to his sufl'er- ings. Friday, November 27th. — I rode out with ^[r J. Lee several miles south, to see more of the country. The same rich black soil continued, furnislnng nutri- tive grass in abundance ; and also the same diversity of wood and prairie. This valley is generally about fifty miles wide east and west, and extends nortli iind south to a great distance. Towards evening we attended the funeral of an Indian boy who had belonged to the school, and who died last night of the epidemic. ]\Iost of the children of the school and sabbath school at- tended, and conducted themselves with propriety. On Saturday I returned to ^M'Key's settlement, to fidfil an appointment to preach to the inhabitants on the sabbath. I lodged with Mr Edwards, who is tem- porarily attached to the mission, and is now teaching the school in this settlement. Almost the whole of the inhabitants of this settle- ment assembled on the sabbath, and made a very resjiectable congregation; but not more than half could imderstand English. After service I was called to see a Mr Carthre, who had been seized severely with the epidemic. I bled him, which gave him im- mediate relief, and applied a blister ; and, as I after- wards learned, he recovered. I'^arly on Monday morning (the 30th), M'Key fur- nished me with two young Indians to take me in a canoe to the falls, wliei'c we arrived safely at three o'clock in the afternoon. Here I engaged two men belonging to a small village of Clough-e-wall-hah Indians, who have a permanent residence a little below the falls. AVanaxka, the chief, eainc up to the falls, where I was about to encamp alone for the niyht, and invited me to share the hospitality of his house. I hesitated what to do — not that I imdervalued his kindness, but feared such annoyances as might prevent my rest. On the other hand, the night threatened to be cold and stormy, very little firewood was to be had ; and, alone in my tent, I should be exposed to ravenous wild beasts — the latter consid'j- ration, however, I scarcely regarded. Rut believing it would i)lease the chief should I accept his invi- tation, I went with him to his dwelling, which was a long perma7icnt building on the west side of the river, upon an elevation of one hundred feet, anor spread lieiid ; stupor ticnt died. In id severe ; the lonvalosced, or 1 to his sufl'er- t with :\rr J. f the country, nisliing ii'.itri- same diversity [illy about fifty )rtli and south c attended the longed to the idemic. Most ath school at- propriety. settlement, to inhabitants on Is, who is tem- now teaching of this settlc- niado a very >re than half :e I was called eized severely gave him im- nd, as I after- ), JI'Key fur- take me in a lafely at three iged two men gh-e-wall-hah e a little below p to the falls, the niuht, and his house. I dervalued his les as miglit id, the night little firewood t, I should bo attcr consid'j- lUit believing 3ept his invi- ig, which was it side of the ired feet, and I of iibout the of t\v? chief, le building, in cd from each These houses The Indians lildings below 10 Indians do s of the ciiiefs ic roof more United States, 'alls, only the Duly one door the front side, smoke, but a Inch is in the riiis answers here is much I witii smoke, as sunk a foot et square, se- G spread upon •ir dormitories bui" feet abovo the floor, with moveable ladders for ascent ; and under then the.v stow away their dried fish, roots, berries, and )ther cffc'cts. There was a great want of neat- ness within, and a still greater without. Tlie Indians in the lower country, who foUow fishing and fowling for a livelihood, are far from being so tasteful and cleanly in their habits as those in the ui)per country, who depend more upon the chase. The latter live in moveable lodges, and frequently change their hal)ita- tions. But tliesc Indians were equally kind and hos- pitable. They gave me most of one side of tlie fire- place, spread down clean new mats, replenished thi^ir lire, and were ready to perform any service I should wish. I let them "fill and boil my tea-kettle, after which I sjircad out my stores, so bountifully ])rovided l)y l)r ]M'Laughlin, and performed n\v own cooking. During the evening, the chief manifestcc' a disposition to be sociable, but we had, of course, to converse almost entirely by the language of signs. When- the hour of rest arrived, I endeavoured to fort:'/ myself against the numerous vermin which swarm in these Indian houses. I wrapped myself up as securely as I could in my tent cloth and blankets, and should have slept comfortably, had not my apprehensions been too fully realised. As soon as daylight appeared, on December 1st, I left tlic hospitable habitation of Wanaxka, and with my two Indians proceeded down the Willamette about sixteen miles before we landed for breakfast. Since coming up the river, the number of swans and geese liad greatly multiplied upon the waters and along the shores. Their cries, and especially those of the swans, echoed through the woods and prairies. Seals, also, are numerous in this river. It is very difflciUt to shoot them even with the best rifles, as they dive imme- diately on perceiving the flash. I had a fair opportu- nity to shoot one to-day ; but with one splash he was out of sight, and did not again appear. When I came to the north-western branch of the Multnomah. I proceeded down four miles to Fort AVil- liam on the Wappatoo Island, an establishment which belongs to Captain Wyeth and Company. The location is pleasant, and the land around is of the first quality. Some months ago, a man named Thornburgh was killed here by another named Hubbard, both being from the United States. A quarrel arose between them about an Indian woman, whom 'I'hornburgli was deteniiined to take from HuV)bard, even at the ri'-k of his own life. He entered Hubbard's cabin in tlie mglit, armed with a loaded rifle. The latter, however, instantly shot luin through the breast, and pushed him out at the door. Thornburgh fell, and expired almost immediately. A self-created jury of inquest sat upon the body of Thornburgh, and lirought in a verdict that he had been killed by Hubbard in self-defence. The man Thornburgh had an insatiable appetite for ardent spirits. Mr Townsend, the ornithologist, whom I have before mentioned, told me he had encamped out for several days some miles from Fort William, in pursuit of his favourite study ; and that, in addition to birds, he had collected rare specimens of reptiles, which were preserved in a keg of spirits. Several days after his encampment, he went to his keg to deposit another reptile, and found the spirits gone. Mr Townsend, knowing that Thornburgh had been several tiines loitering about, charged him with having drank off the spirits. He confessed it, and pleaded his thirst Cvo an apology. On AVedncsday the 2d I returned to Fort Vancouver, much pleased with my excursion. The weather had been generally pleasant, free from winds and heavy storms. There are no high mountains, nor hills which would not be capable of cultivation ; and when this valley shall be filled with inhabitants, aud farms spread out in cultivation, it will be inferior to few parts of the Avorld. I found the people of the fort in their usual active business pursuits, and I received n renewed cordial welcome. 1 OnSTACT-KS TO cnniPTIANITY. - BKSCnTrTinx OP VANCOUVER FITU ANDFARMINT, KSTAllLISIIMENT. -IIAniJSHlPS OF A nUNTKHS LIFH. SAP.nATH, Gth. — I attended three services, morning, afternoon, and evening, and expect to continue them during my residence in this place. Through the week there will 1)e but few opportunities to do much for the spiritual benefit of the common labourers ; for in this high northern latitude, the days in the winter are so short, that the men are called out to their labour be- fore day, and continue it until near dark ; and as their families do not midcrstaud English, I have no direct means of benefiting them. There is another circumstance which 0])crate9 against tlie prospects of benefiting many of tiie po- pulation here — tlie common practice of their living with their families without being married. They do not call the females with whom tiiey live their wives, but their n-onicn. They know they are living in the constant violation of divine prohibition, and acknow- ledge it, by asking how they can with consistency attend to their salvation, while they are living in sin, and are not willing to break oflT their sins l)y right- eousness ? I urged the duty of entering into the mar- riage relation. They have two reasons for not doing so : one is, that if they may wish to return to their former homes and friends, they cannot take their families with them ; the other is, that these Indian women do not understand the obligations of the mar- riage covenant, and if they, as husbands, should wish to fulfil their duties, yet tlieir wives might, through caprice, leave them, and they should hn i)ound by obligations Avliich tlieir wives would disregard. There is no doubt but that this subject is attended with real difficulties ; but are thej- insurmountable ? Has God given a law, which, if obeyed, would not secure our greatest and best good? Is it preferable " to enjoy the pleasures of sin for a season," to denying ourselves to all imgodliness, and taking up the cross by wiiich eternal salvation may be obtained.' And what would the enjoyment the whole world can give profit a niiui if he should lose his soul? But I could not believe, that if these men should marry the women with whom they live, and do all they could to instruct them, and treat them witii tenderness and respect, that there would be many cases of their leaving their husbands. And, whatever might be the results, they had liettcr suffer wrong than do wrong. If the Holy Spirit should convince of sin, what would they not do to flee from the wrath to come! But their social comforts arc so strongly bound with the cords of sin, that they feel, as thoy express themselves, that it is useless to make ar.y efforts to obtain spiritual freedom until they shall be placed in different circumstances. As much of my time through the week was occupied in Ktudy, and in digesting facts coimcctcd with tlie naturiil science of the country west of the llocky ]\[ouiitains, and the character and condition of the Indians who came under my observation at diflcrent times and places, and also that which I had obtained from persons whose testimony could bo relied upon, I shall give them without particular dates. I have already mentioned my agreeable disappoint- ment in finding so many of the comforts of life at difle- rent trading posts of the Hudson's Bay Cu..ipany ; I have also given a brief description of the local situa- tion of Fort Vancouver. Tliese were taken from such observations as I could make in a hasty view, as I was prosecuting my journey to the shores of the Pacific Ocean. This establishment was commenced in the year 1824. It being necessary that the gentlemen who are engaged in trarisactinp the business of the company west of the mountains, and their labourers, should pos- sess a better and less precarious supply of the neces- saries of life than what game would furnish, and the expense of transporting suitable supplies from England being too great, it was thought important to connect c*^ 4d PARKER'S JOURNEY 1 » B I> 1 the business of ftirming with that of fur, to an extent equal to tlieir necessary demands ; and as this fort is tlic central ])lace of husiness to which shippiuK come, and from which they depart for different parts of tlu' nortli-west coast, aiid to which and from which liri- pades of huntin}? parties come anrovisions are now produced in preat al)\indance. There are large fertile jirairies which they occujiy for tillage and jjastnre, and the forests yield an aniple supply of wood for fencing ami other imrposes. In the year 18.'55, there were at this post 450 neat cattle, 11)0 horses, 200 sheep, 40 goats, and 300 hogs. They had raised the same year nooo bushels of wlieat, of excellent (piality; l.'JOO bushels of potatoes, 1000 of barley, 1000 of oats, 2000 of peas, and a great variety of garden vegetal)les, Thiscstimate does nOt include the liorses, horned cattle, grain, &c., raised at the other stations. But little, however, is done elsewhere, excepting at Colville, tiie ujipcrmost post on the northern branch of the Columbia. The garden of this station contains about tive acres, and is laid out with regularity and good taste. While a large ])art is appropriated to the common esculent vegetables, ornamental plants and flowers are not neglected. ruit of various kinds, such as apples, peaches, grapes, and strawberries, considering the short time since they have been introduced, flourish, and prove that the climate and soil are well adapted to the purposes of horticulture. Various tropical fruits, such as figs, oranges, and lemons, have also been in- troduced, and thrive as well as in the latitude of Phi- ladeli>hia. In connexion with their farming establishment, the company have a flour-mill worked byox-po"er, M-hicIi is kept in constant ojieration, and produces flour of an excellent (juality ; and a saw-niill with several saws, which is kept in operation most of the year. This mill, though large, does not with its several saws fur- nish more lumber than a common mill would, with one saw, in the United States. There being no pine below the Cascades, and but very little within Ave Inmdred miles of the mouth of the Columbia liiver, the only timber sawn in this mill is fir and oak. Besides what lumber is used in the common business about this station, one and sometimes two ship-loads are sent annually to Oahu, Sandwich Islands, and is there called pine of the north-west coast. Boards of fir are not so durable, when exposed to the weather, as those of pine, nor so easily worked. One-half of the grain of each annual growth is very hard, and the other half soft and spongy, which easily absoti)s moisture and causes speedy decay. There is a bakery here, in which two or three men are in constant employment, wliich fm-nishes bread for daily use in the fort, and also a large supply of sea-biscuit for the shipping and trading stations along the north-west coast. The-e are also shops for blacksmiths, joiners and carpenters, and a tinner. I lere is a well-regulated medical department, and an hospital for the acconuiiodation of the sick labourers, into which Indians who are labouring under any diffi- cult and dangerous diseases are received, and in most cases liave gratuitous attendance. Among the large buildings, there are four for the trading department: one for the Indian trade, in whieii are deposited their peltries ; one for provisions ; one for goods, opened for the current year's business, that is, to sell to their nv a and to send off to va- rious fur stations; and another for storing goods in a year's a«ew Year, when labour and toil are again resumed. As these holidays are thus generally abused, and are become days of vicious revelry, the friends of iiiety should cease from their observance, and do all in their power to obviate their evil etl'ects. The idea that the Indians are descended from the .Tews, though fre(iueiitly advanced, seems to be en- tirely imaginary. I'"roni all the personal observations and examinations which I made, I could not arrive at any thing conclusive niion the sulijeet, but am very much inclined to believe that their origin will remain as prolilematical in future as it has lieeii in time past. There are some jioints in their lielief and customs, doubtless, which may be thought to re- semble those of the Jews. Their entire freedom from idolatry is a peculiar characteristic, by which they are distinguisheil from all other heathens. It will be reniembcred, that the ]iropensity of the Jewsto idolatry was entirely subdued from the time of tbi'ir cajilivity in Habylon. Among the Indians lieyond the moun- tains, I found no idols, nor any ai)i)earance of idolatry They believe in only one God ; and all their worshii), so far as they have any, is oflered to Him, whom they denominate tlie Great Spirit. Tiiey believe in the immortality of the soul, and future rewards and punishments. They have no sacrifices ; and their minds are perfectly open to receive any truth iu re- gard to the character and worship of God. Thej' have their superstitions, ■which I shall mention in another place. Their custom of punishing the crime of murder, if it does not dilU'r from that of all other heathen nations, yet coincides with what was the (!ustom of the .lews. The nearest relatives of the murdered person are the " avengers of blood," the executioners, or "pursuers of blood." They kill the murderer if they can find him ; and in their own tribe and nation, they do not extenil the punishment to any other jierson ; so that " the fathers are not put to death for the children, neither are ilie children put to death for the fathers; every man is jmt to death for his own sin." As the Jews did not regard other nations with the same benevo- leiiee as their own, so the Indians make a distinction between their own tribe or nation and others. If one is killed by a person be'ongiiig to another nation, if they cannot obtain and put the murderer to death, they will take the life of some of the relatives of the murderer; or, if they fail iu this, some one of his nation must atone for the crime. And if this cannot be done immediately, the debt of blood will still be demanded, though years may pass away before it is cancelled. There is also some resemblance in their marriage- contracts. The negotiation is commenced, if not completed, Avitli the parents of the intended bride, as in the case of Isaac's marrying Bebecca. The bride- groom negotiates with them, and the approbation of the daughter being obtained, the stipulated commodi- ties are paid, and the man takes his wife. Hut as much or ijiore is given in dowrj' to the daughter. The pre- sents and dowry are proptu'tioned to the rank and wealth )f the contracting parties. Wanaxka, the first chief of the Clough-e-wall-hah Indians, has refused i 44 PARKER'S JOURNEY ■%;» ; iiinrc than one hnnilred dollars for a beautiful daugh- ter, Avhoin I saw when I shared the hospitality of liis house. A chief at the La Dalles has refused two horses and six blankets, together with several other articles of smaller value. It is not, however, to be un- derstood that marriage is a mere mercenary trans- action ; for fancy and choice have their influence with them, as well as among more refined people. Another resemblance may be traced in tin estimation in which their females are held. No doubt, the degradation of Indian women is to be attributed in a great degree to their heathenism, and that uncivilised and savage state in which we find them ; yet in their respective occupa- tions, we find some features which are not dissimilar. Among those nations and tribes who do not possess slaves, the women cut and prepare wood for fire, as well as food for their families ; they pack and unpack the horses, set up and take down lodges, gather roots and berries for food, dress the skins for clothing, and make them into garments. So Jewish women drew water for the flocks and camels, and watched over them ; they gleaned the fields in harvest, ur.d i)cr- formed the work of grinding in the mill. iSlaveiy was suffered among the Jews ; but to steal and sell a man was punishalile with deatli. If a man bought a Hebrew servant, the time of his service was not to exceed six years, intermarriages took place between these servants and the families of their mas- ters ; and the betrotlied maid was to be dealt with after the manner of daughters. The same restrictions were not, however, enjoined in relation to those bondmen who were bouglit of the heathen, until thedpys of the prophets, when they were conmianded to break every yoke and let the ojjpressed go free. So, also, slavery exists in a modified form among the Indians west of the mountains, not generall}', but only in the nations in the lower country. Slaves arc bought ; taken pri- soners in war; taken in payment of debts, if they ai'c orphans of the debtor ; or taken in pledges. They are put to the same service which women perform among those Indians who have no slaves. They are generally treated with kindness, live in the same dwelling with their masters, and often intermarry with those who are free. Polygamy is practised among the Indians, and with nearly the same regulations under which it was prac- tised among the Jews. Though they do not write bills of divorcement and put away their wives, yet they send them away on slight occasions. But this brings no disgrace upon the woman's character, and generally she is soon married to another, and often as advanta- geously as before. Another resemblance between the Jews and the In- dians is the division of their nations into tribes. The tribes of the children of Israel were the descendants of distinguished families, and tlieir government was patri- archal. The tribes among the Indians are constituted much in the same way. Some important personage gains an influence, numbers become attached to him, and though they do not separate from their nation, nor at once become a distinct tribe, yet tlicy are deno- minated a band, and these bands in many cases grow up into tribes. Tliere are two considerations M-hich should not be passed over, and which are against the supposition of the Indians being of Jewish origin. ( )ne is. that they have no sacrifices. In this they not only difler from that nation, but also from all other nations of tiie earth which are not under the influence of the light of the gospel. If they are of JewisJi descent, it is strange that they have not continued the practice of ottering sacrifices, and especially when there is so general a pro- pensity among men, particularly among the heathen, to resort to sacrifices to atone for their sins. What- ever truth there luay l)e in tlie statements that the Indians east of tlie Hocky Mountains otter up sacri- fices, yet I have not found the least trace of evidence that the Indians of the west do so. The other consideration is the Avant of evidence in their language. There are several entirely distinct languages among the different Indian nations. Thcso languages are more entirely distinct than the differei.t languages of Europe; for in all the difl!ercnt languages of Europe there are words derived from Eatin, com- mon to each, and which prove a common relation. Now. if the Indiiins are descended from the Jews, and of course once liad a common language, the Hebrew, then, notwithstanding their departure by different dialects from their original, might it not be expected that there would still remain wortls and idioms indicative of their conmion origin ? Hut it is not so. In their languages there are some words in common with Latin, Greek, and Hebrew, but these aroused in an entirely difl'erent sense from that in which they are used in those lan- guages. As far as it respects language, the proof of a Jewish, or even of a connnon origin, is not only doubt- ful but highly improbable.* ^^^■w^ Ni-^^vw-ww THE VARIOUS ANIJIAtS nF.YOXD THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. It is generally supposed that wild animals are nume- rous in the Indian countries, especially in the regions l)eyond the Kocky Jlountains ; but, in fact, excepting within the buffalo range, which is becoming more and more circumscribed, game is scarce. In giving an account of animals beyond the momitains, I sliall avoid entering into a n)inute description of those which are familiar to all classes of persons. There are four varieties rif bears, though it is sup- posed there are only two distinct species. These are the white, grizzly, brown, and black. The white bears arc ferocious and powerful, but their numl]crs arc so small in the region of the Oregon country, thiit they are not an oliject of dread. Tlie grizzly bears are far more numerous, more formidable, and larger, some of * [Wc recommend those who wish for information on tlic Ian- guascs of tlic American Inr on tlie subject in tlie Amcriciui Encjelopedia, which is partly drawn up from tlio able Report of Mr Du Ponceau to the American Philosophical .Society, li)l!). It is there stated that the Indian languages are.; oh in words, and regular in their forms, in both which particulars they do not yield to any other idioms. Tiiey possess tlie singular property of combining parts of different words to express the ideas to which the separate words would refer. " One example from tlie Delaware language, will convey a clear idea of this process of compounding; 'and I have chosen,' saya Jlr Du Ponceau, ' this word for the saUc of its euphony, to wliich even tlie most delicate Italian ear will not object. When a Itcla- waro woman is playing with .1 little dog or eat, or some otlicr young animal, she will often say to it, Kiiliijntschis, whichlwould translate into English— f;/iv vie i/nur pirlli) liltle paw, or, IVIiat a jircit;/ liWc fiate you have! This word is compounded thus : k is the inseparable pronoun of the second person, and may be ren- dered Ihou or Ihii, according to the context ; uU (pronounced oolcv) is part of the word inilH, which signifies hanilsonw. or pretty (it has also other meanings, which need not be here specified) ; gat is part of the word wiehflut, whidi signifies a leri or paiV! scliis (pronounced .s//i't'.v) is a diminutive termination, and conveys tho idea of litllene.iii : thus, in one word, the Indian woman says, tlii/ pretty tittle paw ! and according to tlie gesture which slie makes, eitlier calls upon it to present its foot, or simply expresses her fondling admiration. In the same manner, pilupe. (a youth) ig formed from pilslt (chaste, innocent) and leiutpe (a man). It is diflicult to find a more elegant combination of ideas, in a singlo word, of any existing idiom. I do not kno ■ ><'- ^' language, out of tliis part of the world, in whicli words .', • :;i)mpoundetl in this manner. Tlie process consists in putting togctlicr portions of dif- ferent words, so as to awaken, at tlie same time, in tho mind of the hearer, the various ideas which they scjiarately express. Hut this is not the only manner in whieli the American Indians com- bine their ideas into words. They have also many of the foims of the Iiingiiages which wo bo much admire — tlio Latin, Greek, Sanscrit, Slavonic, (Sic. — mixed with others peculiarly their own. Indeed, the multitude of ideas, which in their languages are com- bined witli their verbs, has justly attracted tho attention of tho learned in all parts of tlio world."] of evidence in itircly distinct ations. Tlicso n tlie differei.t rent languages in Latin, coni- relation. Now, : Jews, and of Hebrew, tlien, ferent dialects cted that there ieative of their iieir languages Latin, Greek, tirely diflerent I in those lan- , the proof of a lot only doubt- HE ROCKY lals are nume- in the regions fact, excepting niug more and In giving an s, I shall avoid lose which are ugh it is sup- !s. These are he white bears miljers arc so try, that they ' bears are far arger, some of ation on tlio lan- «ceUcnt jiajxT on li 13 partly drawn :o the American that tlic Indian ir forms, in botli T idioms. Tliey if diti'erent words rds would refer. II convey a clear ivo chosen,' saya phony, to wliieh . When a Dela- t, or some other s, which I would ■paw, or, Whal a mnd various other articles. Tlicre are three kinds of squirrels — two of ivhich I have already dcscriljcd. The third is the grey, which diflers from those in the United States in being larger, and its colour more beautifully distinct. 1 saw nuuiy of their skins made into robes, and worn by the Indians aixnit the cascades. Of the feline or cat tribe, there are the p.anther, tho long-tailed tiger-cat, the common wild-cat, and the lynx. The panther is rarely seen, and the difference of climate and country produces no change in its ferocity and other habits, from those foimd in other p.arts of America. The long-tailed tiger-cat is more connnon, very largo, and of a duU reddish colour. The com- mon wild-cat is also eonunon. It is nuich smaller, its tail is short, and its colour like the .ibove named. I can only name the lynx, as it did not come under my ol)servation. it is found in the lower wooded ctnmtry, and, as the Indians affirm, in considerable numbers. 1'hcre arc five different species of wolves — the connnon grey wolf, the black, blue, white, and the .small prairie wolf. The eonunon grey wolf is the same as that found in the United States, and has all its usual habits. The black wolf, which I did not see, as described by !Mr Ermitinger, a gentleman belong- ing to the Hudson's Hay Companj', is larger than the grey, and more noble in its appearance, and is the strongest of the wolf tribe. That which the same gentleman called the blue wolf, is but rarely seen, as idso the white ; and, so far as their habits are known, they do not materially differ from the others. The small prairie wolf is the most conmion ; it bears a strong reseml)lance to the dog, and has been called the wild-dog. The colour is imit'ormly of a dull reddish grey ; the hair always long, blended with .a brown fur .at its roots; and, like otl'jr wolves, its habits are al- ways prowling and cowardly. They are more nume- rous than the other kinds, and follow the caravans in considerable numbers, to feed iipon offal. Although we frequently heard them howl and bark around our encampments, j-et they never attempted to disturb us. Notwithstanding all that has been said about the immense number of wolves beyond the rocky moun- tains, they are far less numerous than might be ex- pected. I do not make this assertion solely from the fact that I saw or heard only a few, but from the tes- timony of those whose long residence in this country entitles them to credit. The fox, which is so generally dispersed through the world, is found here in three different kinds — the red, grey, and silver. They do not differ from those found east of the mountains. The silvei'-grey fox is scarce, and highly esteemed, and its fur takes tho highest raidc among the furs of commerce. Its colour is dark, sometimes nearly black, the ends of the hairs tipped with white ; and in addition to the inicommonly fine texture, the fur presents a beautiful glossy appear- ance. ]\Iartens arc not abundant ; some arc found about the head-waters of the Columbia, in woodj- mountains ; but they arc more numerous and of superior quality farther north. The inoffensive, timorous luirc, in three different species, abounds in aU parts of this country. Its n.atural instinct for self-preservation, its remarkably prominent eye, its large active car, and its soft fur, are its characteristics in this as in other regions. The three species are — the large common hare, which is generally known ; the sm.all chief hare, with large round carsj and a yery small species, but five or six ^-i»jfr 46 PARKERS JOURNEY 1 I , ! In , •! t?i incites loiifr, with pointcil cars. If the first-nanu'd (lilliTs ill any partii'ular frtiin those in the UnittMl States, it is in its manner of ninnini,', and its speed. Its bound is not re;rular, lint its nioti(jns are an alternate running and leapin;;, which it ])ert'iirnis with such swiftness and to so incredible a distance, that I fre- quently mistook it, at first view, for the pmirie hen, which I sui)posed was (hinir near the surface of the ground. Its tlesh, when used for food, is tender and of a pleasant flavour. !Many of the Indians wear dresses made of the skins of these animals, patched together into a scanty robe. There is a small sjiecies of the marmot, of which I have seen no description in any work on natural his- tory, which is prol)al)ly peculiar to this country. It is called hy the Xez I'erces, elnct; is five inches lon.t; from the tip of its nose, exclusive of its tail, which is two in lenjJith ; its body is one inch and a third in diameter, the colour is brown, beautifully intermixed with small white spots upon its back. It has eight long hairs projecting from the nose on each side, and two over each eye. Its habits resemble those belonging to its genus. It is remarkably nimble . its uiovements. The Indians esteem its flesh a luxury. Among the animals of the deer kind, the elk is the largest and most majestic. It exists in considerable numbers east of the Kocky ^Mountains, but less nume- rous on the west side. It combines beauty with magni- tude and strength, and its large towering horns give it an imjrasuig appearance. Its senses are so keen in appre- hension, that it is difficult to be approached ; and its speed in flight is so great that it mocks the chase. Its Hesh resembles beef, but less highly flavoured, and is much sought for by the Indians and hunters. Its skin is esteemed, and much used in articles of clothing and for moccasins. I saw no moose, but it is said they are found farther north, in the more cold and woody regions. There are three species of deer — the red, the black- tailed, and the common American deer. Like those found in other countries, they are of a mild, innocent, timid aspect; elegant in form, with slender nervous limbs. When any object or noise alarms them, they throw np their heads, erect and move their cars in every direction to catch the sounds, snuff up the wind, and bound off with great celerity. The deer west of the mountains are more lean, and the flesh less palat- able, than that of those found in the United States. This may arise from the nature of the food to which they are confined, there being but very few of the saccharine plants found in their pastures. The red deer are generally f(jund about the Eocky ^Mountains and upon the head waters of the Columbia. The black- tailed deer, Avhile they are of a dusky sallow colour, like the common American deer, are somewhat darker, ind tncir tails are larger and nearly black, wliicli gives them their name. Their eyes are large and prominent, their ears large and long; and, judging from those I saw, they are smaller than the common deer. When pursued, their motion is a leap or bound. Antelopes, which I havo already described, are numerous in the upper and pr.iirie country. It is hardly necessary to say, that the beaver, so noted for its valuable fur, for its activity and perse- verance, its social habits, its sagacity and skill in con- structing its village and preparing "its neat and com- fortable dwellings, is an inhabitant of this country. It has been sought with avidity, and has been a source of wealth to main-, but also to nuiltitudes, of poverty, misery, and death. Its flesh is very good for food, and the trapper and hunter depend almost entirely upon it for subsistence while in its pursuit. Al- though I ate several times the flesh of the beaver, yet I discovered no evidence of the truth of the asser- tion flften made, that while the flesh of the fore parts is of the quality of land animals, its hind parts are in smell and taste like fish. I should think it would re- quire much assistance from imagination to discover the flshy taste. IIere,also,thcotter is found in considerable niimhors, and is esteemed next to the heaver, by the hunter and trader. The shades of its colour vary from a light to a fine deep brown. Tiie fur is rich and in great de- manil; and tla.i! is none found in any country of l)etter (piality than those skins I saw at difl'erent trad- ing posts of the Hudson's Uny Company. The forma- tion of the otter is adajjfed to land and water, having short and nuiseular legs, so articulated that it can l)ring them horizontal with its body, and usi' them as fins in the water; and its toes are weblied like water- fowl. It subsists ijrincipally upon fish, frogs, and other aquatic animals. It has a peculiar habit of as- cending a high rimetinies an old blind one is seen alone from all others ; and it was amusing to sec their coiisteniation when they apprehend the approach of danger. The natural instincts of fear and prudence lead them to fly alternately in every possible direction for safety. I was pleased to find our most thoughtless young men respect their age and jiity their calamity ; for in no instance did I sec any abuse offered them. They are fond of rolling upon the ground like horses, whicli diversion is so much indulged in by them, that large jilaces are found without grass and considi rably ex- cavated. The use of their skin for buffalo robes, and the woolly fur with which they are covered, are so universally known, that a description is entirely unnecessary. Another peculiarity which belongs to them is, that they never raise their voice above a low bellow; in no instance were we disturbed by their lowing, even when surrounded by thousands, and in one of our encampments, it was supposed there were five thousand near by. It has been said they do not visit any of the districts formed of primitive rocks. This is said without reason, for I saw them as frequently in those districts, in proportion to their extent, as where other formations existed. It is also said, that as they recede from the cast tliey are extending west. This is also incorrect; for, as I have before said, their limits are be(!oniing more and more circumscribed. And if they should continue to diminish for twenty years to come, as they have during the last twenty years, they will become almost extinct. riSII.-VEGETATION.-SOIL AND CLIMATE. I PASS to a brief notice of the fish found in the waters of the Columbia. The salmon, sturgeon, anchovy, rock-cod, and trout, arc all that I shall mention. The sturgeon, of good quality and in very considerable numbers, commence running in the fore part of April, and give relief to the suffering Indians. I say sufler- ing ; for, before the opening of the spring, their stock of provisions is consumed, and they are seen search- ing for roots and any thing which will sustain life ; and though I do not feel authorised to say what others liavc said, that in the latter part of the winter and fore part of the spring, they die of starvation in great numbers, yet they are brought to great want, and look forward with much solicitude to the time when the sturgeon shall come into the river. I do not in these remarks include the Shoshones or Snake Indians. A small fish, \\\'<^ the anchovy, about six inches long, very fat and wtU flavoured, comes into the river in great numbers abv,nt the time, or a little before the I) slurgeoii. The Indians obtain Lirgo quantitit's of oil from tlu'Mi. by pnttinii them intoa netting. -trainer and exposing them to a gentle heat. Tlie rock codfish were not known to inb.iliit the waters about the nv uth of the ColunilFi;!, until the present year. Tluy are very tine, and easily lanubt. The salmon is by far themost numerous and valuable fish found in these watirs, and is of excelknt flavom". It is well ascertained that there are not less than six ditrerent species of the true salmon that a.-ceml these waters, commencing about the 2(»tli of vViu'il. Their muscular jiower is exceedingly great, which is niaii- fested in their clearing the falls and rapids, wbidi apiiear impassable. Tluy are never known to return, but are constantlj- jiressing their way upwards ; so that it is not uncommon to find them in the small branches of the rivers near the very sources. We found them in ISeiitember near the Kocky ^lountains, where they are said Ui be found as late as Xovimber and December. I saw some with parts of their heads worn to the bone, whicli iii)pears to be the result of their unceasing ell'orts to ascend. Late in the season, great numbers are found dead, furiiishingfood for crows and even Indians, whom 1 have seen drive away the crows and ajipropriate the remnants to tlieiiiselves. "When the sahi'on liccome much emaciated, their tlesh loses its rich redness, and it is seen in the skin, which gives the fish a beautiful aiipcarance ; but when in this state it is hardly palatable. It is worthy >>f notice, that the salmon has its preferences of water, sikcting some branches of the Columbia Hiver and jiassing by others; and those taken in some of the tributary streams are far better than those taken in others. While those which ascend the rivers never return, their young are seen in Septendier descending on their Avay tr he ocean, in immense numbers. It is believed these return the fourth year alter their descent; Imt this may be only eonjeeture. It is diflitult to estimate how many salmon might be taken in these rivers, if projier measures were pursued: and also Avhat would be the results upon the numbers which would con- tinue to enter and ascend. I think a feasible plan might be devised and adopted to carry on a salmon fishery in this river to good advantage and jirofit. The experiment was made by a comisany from the United States, which failed, for it contained the ele- ments of its own overthrow. The company sent out large quantities of rum to exchange for iish, probably calculating on the fact that Indians are fond of ardent spirits. Whatever their object might have been, the Indians were highly pleased with receiving rum in pay for their salmon. But when they had tlius (]l)taiiied it, they would become intoxicated and disqualified for labour, and more time was wasted in drunkenness tlinn employed in fishing. Ik'sides, their salmon were often suffered to lie in the hot .sun until they were luuch injured, if not wholly spoiled. The result was, that the company, as I was informed, obtained only about four liundre(l barrels of salmon, and made a losing voyage; and the snperintendant of Fort \'ancouver tofdme, that when the company abandoned their busi- ness, they stored many barrels of rum at his fort. ^ly information was not wholly derived from those who had been in the employment of that company, and gentlemen of the lludscnrs 15ay Company, but in part from the Indians. The Indians often spoke to me ujion the subject by way of praise. They ^^■ould say, " Close, Idas him," signifying, "Good, plenty of rum." Having frequently made mention of the trees and shrubbery Avest of the great mountains, I shall in this place only enumerate the principal, describing a few. I have said there are three species of fir, and that these constitute the greater part of the forest-trees, and are very large. The three kinds are the red, yellow, and white. They not only differ in the colour of the wood, but also in their foliage. The foliage of the red is scattered on all sides of the branchlets, in the same form as those foiuid in the United States; the yellow 48 TARKER'S JOURNEY ^ ii 1 , only on tho upper side, or tho upper half of tlic twins; tin' vliifi' is (i|)|Hisitily ]iiniiiit('il. 'I'lic l)iiNMtii is iililwn the rich plains below Fort Vancouver, where there are trees scattered about like shade trees upon a well-cultivati'd farm, I measured a white oak, wliicli was eijrlit feet in diiimeter, continued large about thirty feet high, and then branched out immensely -wide, Tinder which ^Ir,F. K. Towiisend and myself, with our horses, found an excellent shelter during a shower of rain. There are two kinds of ash, the common white nsh and the broad-leaved. The latter is very hard. There is also alder, which I have mentioned as growing very large, aii, which is found in some of our gardens, grows here wild, and in great abundance. Uesides the common rasiiherry, there is another species which grows in the fon'sts, the berry of which is three times as large as the common, witli a very deli- cate rich j'ellow tint, though tlii' tlavour is less agree- able. There is also a species of sweet elder, which I have already described. The vining honeysuckle is iimong the most beautiful iiroductions of nature. The sweet tlowering-pea grows siiontaneoiisly, and in some jilaces ornaments large jiatches of grouiu' ii some small .sections red clover is found, ditlerin the kind cultivated by our farmers, but not less and beautiful; white clover is also found in the upper and mountainous j arts. Strawberries are indigenous here, and their llav air more delicious than that of anv I have tasted in other countries. Sun-tlowers are common, but do not grow large ; a species of broom corn is also found in man}' iiarts of the bottom-lands of the Columbia and other streams. To this list may be added a wild grain soniewhav resembling barley or rye. Among the nutritive roots, I have mentioned the wappatoo and the camnias. The wappatoo is a bidlious root, being the common MKjittdfolia or iirrow-head, and is found only in the valley of the Columbia below the cascades. It becomes .soft by roasting, and, forming a nourishing and ])alatable food, is much used by the Indians, who make it an article of trade. It grows in shallow lakes, and in marshes covered with water. The Indian women wade in search of this root, grope it out in the mud and disengage it with their feet, when it rises to the surface of the water and is collected. The eammas, a tunicatcd root, is one of great importance to the Indians, and grows in moist, rich ground, in the form of an onion. It is roasted, pounded, and made into loaves like bread, and has a liqwulce taste. The cowish, or biscuit-root, which grows on dry land, is about the size of a walnut, or eonsidcralily larger, tastes like the sweet potato, is prepared in the same manner for food as the eammas, and forms a tolerable substitute for bread. To these may be added the rac'nic amcir, a bitter fusiform root, which grows on dry ground, and though not pleasant to the taste, is very conducivo to healtli ; also the common onion, and another, charac- terised by its beautiful red flower, which often grows upon patches of volcanic scoria where no other vege- tation is seen. Although a description of the Oregon territory has been necessarily interwoven with the narrative, yet a condensed account of its geography may with propriety be given here. In comparing the country west with that east of the mountains, and especially the great valley of the Mississippi, we are impressed very power- fully with the contrast which tluir distinguishing fea- tures present. The valley of the Mississippi may be called the garden of the world— every part of it abounding in rich soil inviting cultivation. We see no barren or rocky wastes, no extended swamps or marshes, no frozen mountains. No prominent land- marks catch the eye of the traveller : he sees in tho wide distance before him only almost horizontal lines of level or rolling meadow. No one points out to hira the peaks of dim mountains, and tells him that the range divides two sisf^r states, or separates two noble % IIKYONO Tin: ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 40 rv ; (111(1 tlic pam- •filS (if till' miosc- kly, which yrows nail whiti', wliidi 'X' Miiootli fiiiriilc, so of lino tliivoiir. ;urit_v, and those lerior. 'I'lu'rc aru If rcil, tlu'vcllow, :. Tliouirh these not so |iroliti(' oi' ikr the liand of called the snow- ir gardens, gi'ows there is another he lierry of which I, witl; a very deli- •our is less ajiree- ■et elder, which I ijf lioneysuekle is IS of nature, lontaneoiisly, and iesofnroun(' ii lid, dillerin mt not les> itnid in the ii|i|ier U es are indiKfnous ;)us than that of not grow largo ; 111 in many i)arts inl)ia and other ted a wild grain ■e mentioned the patoo is a bulhous r arrow-head, and Innihia below tlic ig, and, forming a uch used by the ido. It grows in red witli water, f this root, grope I their feet, when is colleeted. The great importance L'h ground, in the nided, and made orice taste. The s on dry land, is ibly larger, tastes the same manner leralile substitute the racirie aiiwre, I dry ground, and ery eonducive to luiother, eharac- hich often grows e no other vege- jon territory has ! narrative, yet a ly with propriety luntry west with eeially the great ssed very power- 5tinguishing fea- ssissippi may bo very part of it vat ion. We see ided swamps or prominent land- p : he sees in the ; horizontal lines oints out to hira Us him that the aratcs two noble rivers, lie sees no clouds resting nn the shoulders of [ lofty I'utes, and lilciiding their neutral tint with the ; hazy blue of tlie landscaiie before him; no Tctoiis rearing their heads into the region of pi rpctualsnow ; but, day after day, he jiursues his journey «iliiont any thing to crt:ite in liis iiosom emotions of the grand and sublime, unless it be the simple vastness of the 'x- panse. Ueyond the Rocky . '^ountain^ , again, nature appears to have stuilied variety on the largest scale. 'I'mvcr- ing mountains and wide extended prairies, rich valK'vs and liarren jilains, and larj;e rivers, with their rapids, cataracts, and falls, present a great diversity of ]>ro- speet. Tiie whole country is so niouiitainous, that from every little elevation a person can see some of the innnense ranges which intersect its diflerent jiarts. On an eminence at a short distance from Fort \'an- couver, five isolate(l conical mountains, from ten to fifteen thousand feet high, whose tops are covered with jierpetual snow, may l)e seen rising' in the sur- rounding valle\'. Three general raii":is, wi'st of the rocky chain of mountains, run in no' ..orn and south- ern directions — the first idxive tlie falls of tlu' Colum- bia River; the second at and liclow the cascades; and the third towards and along the shores of the I'aeitie. From each of these, branches extend in dillerent diric- tions. Resides these, there are hills in diilerent ])arts which are largo and high, sui'h as the lilue ^loun- tains south of Walla-Walla ; the Salmon Hi-er moun- tains, between the Salmon and theCooscootske Rivers; and also others iu tlie regions of <.)kanngan and Col- ville. Retwecn these mountains are wide-spread A-allcys and plains. The largest and most fertile valley is in- cluded between Deer Island on the west and a ])oint within twelve miles of the cjiscades, stretching in all to a width of about fifty -fivemiles, and extending north and south to a greater extent than I had the means of definitely ascertaining — probably from I'uget's Sound on the north to the LTmbiqua River on the south. The Willamette River and a section of the Cohnnbia are included in this valle\'. The valley south of the Walla- Walla, called the Grand Round, is said to be remarkable for its fertility. To these may be added Pierre's Hole and the adjacent country; also Racine Amcre, cast of the Salmon River moun- tains. Others of less magnitude are dispersed over different parts. To these may be added many cxti;n- sive plains, nost of which are prairies well eovered with grass 'The whole region of country west of Salmon River mountains, the Spokein woods, and Okanagan, .""• far as the range of mountains which cross the Columbia at the falls, is a vast prairie, covered with grass, and the soil is generally good. Another large i)lain, but which is said to bo very barren, lies to the south-west of Lewis or Snake River, including the Shoshoues' country ; and travellers who have passed through this, have pronounced the interior of America a great barren desert. But this is drawing a conclu- sion far too broad from premises so limited. So far as I have had opportunities for observation, I feel warranted in saying, that while some parts of the Oregon territory are barren, large sections of it are well adapted to grazing; and other parts, though less extensive, to both tillage and grazing. As regards forests, I would only observe, that a large proportion of the country west of the moun- tains is destitute of wood, while other parts are well supplied. 1 have already mentioned the lower country, from below the falls of "the Columbia to the ocean, as being well wooded, and in many parts, especially near the ocean, densely. The mountains north of the Salmon River, and the country about the Spokein River, and so on still farther north, are well furnished ■with trees. In some other sections there are partial supplies. The country in general is well watered, being inter- sected with lakes and many large rivers with their tributary streams. This might be inferred from the fact that there are so many mountains. ui>on tlie sides of wliich are multitudes of tlie lincst springs. Xo country t'lirnislu'S water of greater purity and I'lear- ness. As the sjiring and smniner heat comnuiices. the snows of the mountains unit, and begin to swi'U the rivers in the early jiart of May. which increase eon- tinnes unlil .lime, when the freshet is the greatest, and large sections of the low lands of the valli-ys are inundated. Some p;n-ts jireseiit the aiipi'arance of inland seas. No part of the world furnishes superior advantages for watiT-jiower. The seasons here may be divided into two: ^'.c rainy ]icriod commencing in Novi'mber and te-' . nating in May; the dry season in the smnnier, vl. r is entirely destitute of rain, and during which t.,..o the atmosiilure is remarkably serene; while the daily ]irairie wiiuls relieve the heat of the sun, and the season is most delightful. T'ho climate is far more temiierato and warm to the west of the Rocky Mo\n> tains than in the same latitude on the east, there be- ing a dillerincc of at least eight degrees. There were only three il ys in the whole winter of my residence in the coniihy, during which the thermometer sunk ft) 'Ii degnes Fahrenlu'it, at Fort Vancouver. Snow does not fall to any great dei)th exceiiting u])on the inountains; in the valleys it rare'y continues more than a t'i'w days, ( '• at the farthest only a few weeks; and liy the latter part of February or the first of ^larch, ])loui:hing iiiid sowing are comnu'iiced. And not only is the eliniate unconi.'ionly delightful, but it is also healthy, tb.ere being scarcely any iirevailing diseases, except tlio U'ver and ague in the lower coun- try, which, as hiis been stated, comnionced in 1829; aiKl ophthalmia, which is very general among the Indians of the ])lains. It is wortl.y of notice, that thunder is seldom heard west of the mountains, while in the valley of the Mississippi it is very frc- (pient and unusually loud, CHARACTER AND CONDITION OF THE INDIANS OP TIIE l'LAIN.S. Ah it was the principal object of my tour to ascertain the character and condition of the Indians beyond the Rocky Mountains, their numbers, and the prospect of establishing the gospel among them, it will not bo nnimportant here to give a sunnnary of the informa- tion I obtained on these particulars. In doing this, while I shall avail myself of the aid afforded by men of intelligence and integrity, my statements shall be confined to facts which have been corroborated by or have come under ni}- own observation. This is the more necessary, from the manj' fabulous accounts which have been given of Indian character and customs. I shall first describe the Indians of the i)lains. These live in the upper country, from the falls of the Colum- bia to the Rocky ^Fountains, and are called the Indians of the plains, because a large proportion of their coun- try is prairie land. The ])rincipal tribes are the Ncz I'erces, Cayuses, Walla-Wallas, Ronax, Shoshones, Spokeins, i'latheads, Cocur de Lions, I'onderas, Coo- tanies, Kettlcfalls, Okanagans, and Carriers. These do not include, probably, more than one-half of those east of the falls, but of (khers I have obtained but little definite knowledge. They all resemble each other in general chiiracteristics. In their persons they are tall and well formed ; with complexions somewhat fairer than those of other Indians. Their hair and eyes are black, their cheek-bones high, and very frequently they have aquiline noses. Their hands, feet, and ankles, are small and well formed, and their movements easy and graceful. They wear their hair long, part it upon their forehead, and let it hang in tresses on each side and behind. There is a great similarity in their dress, which 50 PARKER'S JOURNEY li; iJ U'M i h ,i generally eonsists of a sliirt. worn over lonp close icirjiin!!, with nioceasins for the feet. These are made of the dressed skins of the deer, antelope, mountain goat, or sheep ; and over uW is thrown a hlanket or bufliilo rolK", ornamented wiih long fringes. They are particnlarly fond of ornaments, decorating their heads and garments witV feathers, heads, buttons, and poretipine quills — the latter dyed various colours, and worked with great skill and variety of design. 'I'liey r.jipear to have less of the propensity to 'idorn them- selves witii i)aiiit than the Imliuns east of the moan- tains ; nevertlales.), they use vermilion, mixed ' ith red clay, upon their faces .ml tlieir liair. The dress o*" the women does not dilfer nuich from that of the men, excepting that, instead of the leather shirt, thej' have what may he called a frock, coming d'jwn to the ankles. JEanyof them wear a large cape made of the same material, which is often highly ornamented with large oblong beads of blue, red, purple, and white, ar- ranged in curved lines covering the whole. Some of the daughters of the chiefs, when clothed in their clean white dresses, made of antelope skins, with their fully ornamented capes coming down to the waist, and mounted upon spirited steeds, make an appearance that would noc lose in comparison with equestrian ladies of more polished lands. Their horses are not less finely cajiarisoiied, with blue and .scarlet trim- mings about their heads, breasts, and loins, hung witVi little brass bells. The want of cleanlinesb characteri.:<'ic of all barba- rians, is less conspicuous among the mdians of the prairies, who an- much more tasteful in their habits than those of t ic lower country, towards the Paciflc. Their wealth consists principally in their horses, th^'r consequence depending in a great degree upon the number they possess — some owning several hun- dreds ; and that family is reckoned poor which is un- able to provide a steed for every ni-m, woman, and child, when they are travelling from ])lace to place, and also to carry their effects. While horses are thus h'ghly prized, they derive but little from them for the support of themselves and families, for they do not emjloy them to cultivate the earth, and the market for tliem is so low that they comriand but a small price. A go jd horse will not seii for more than the viUue of a blanket, or a few small articles of mer- chandise. For subsistence, they necessarily depend upon hunting and fishing, and gaiiiering roots and berries. Their \.v\\c of cooking is of course p' i and simple. !Most of their food is roasted, and they excel in roasting fish. The jiroccss is to Iniild in the centre of their lodge a small lire, to fix the fish upon a stick two feet long, and to place one end in t'^o ground so as to bring the lish pn'-tly over the Are ; and then, by a .slow process, it is most thoroughly roasted, without any scorching or scarcely changing the colour. The principal art consists, in taking time, and our best Ci'oks might improve by following their example. The habits of the Indians are usually believed to be indolent. As a gcr.oral remark this may he true, though I must confess I saw Imt little to confirm it among the Indians of the plains, v .0 were alw;iys engaged in some active pursuit — ".ot tlu most produc- tive perhaps, but such at least as enli lod tlielr atten- tion and occupied their mental and physical powers. In disposition they are ■•heerful, and often gay, sociable, kind, and affectionate; and anxious to re- ceivv. nstruction in whatever may conduce to their happiness here or hereafter. It is worse than idle to speak of " physical insensibility inwrought into the animal nature of the Indians, so that their bodies ap- proximate to the insensibility of horses' hoofs." The influenc , of such remarks is to produce, in the iHisonis of all who read them, the same insensibility which is charged upon the native character of the Iiulians. To represent their characters and their restoration to the common feelings of humanity as hopeless, "s to steel the heart of even Christianity itself, if it were possible. against all sj-mpathy, and to paralyse all exertions for their moral and spiritual elevation. Is this the reason why Chri..tians are sitting in sueli supineness over their condition, regardL..3 of the heart-Huilling ap- l)eals from them for teachern to enlighten them ? Is this the reason, why those who are .sent to teach them the arts of civilised life, are sitting quiet on the borders, in the enjoyment of govermnental salaries, while the Indians are still roaming over t'lc prairies in .search of uncertain and precarious '^anic ? If so, I beg sol' Minly to protest agaiu.st all such theories. Let the Inuian character receive the justice of a fair trial — let zealous and devoted Christian missiouanes and teachers be sent among them — and iione need fear that their improvement wouhl lie such as to reward amply the exertions of those wlio should so befriend them. The .arts of life among the Indians arc of tiie most l)lain and simple description, not extending nnich lieyond drissing the skins of animals, an*, making them into clotliing; forming bows iud arrows, and some lew articles of furniture. In dressing skins they never make any use of bark, or tai.nin in any way. T'leir process is io r" novo the hair and flesh from the skins by scraping them wi*^'i a hard s^one or piece of wi h1, or, wiien it can be obtained, a piece of iron hoop; and then, besmearing them with the bu.l.iij of some animal, they smoke th ;m thoroughly, and rub them until tliey are soft, and after tlis bleach them witli pure Avliite clay. Their mode of smoking them, i" ^o dig or excavate a small hole in the ground, alxnit a loot deep, and over this to construct a fixture a iV •" feet wide at the base, and brought to a point at the top. Then they build a fire in the centre, and place the skins around upon the framework, so us to make the enclosure almost smoke tight. Tl'.e process K-cupics about a day. Their mode of divssing bufl'ai'j rolics is diiferent. This 's done by stretching the sk n upon the ground, with the flesh sidj up, and fastening it down with pins a.'ound the bonier, Thci., with an in- strument formed somewhat like i cooper's adze, made of stone, or wood overlaid with a piece of i.on, brought to ii blunt edge like a currier's knife, they clear from it all remaining flesh, and let it thoroughly dry. After this, with the same inst'-ument, they wcn-k upon it until they have brought it to a suitable thickness and rendered it soft and white, in the same conditit)n as our b\n!alo robes arc when brcniiTbt into market. It is a W( rk of great labonr, performed by the women. We little think how imuh toil it costs a woman to prepare one of these rolx;s, imd then how little is paid for it by the purchaser: a pound of tol)aeco or a bunch of beads is as much as the Indian generally receives. Their bows are made of the most elastic wood, strengthened with the tendons of auimab glued upon the back side, and a string made of the same sub- stance. Their arrows arc made of heavy wood, one end being tipped with ;: sharp stone ,ir i)ointeil iron, and the other end pinnated with a feather. Their bows and arrows perform astonishing execution, and they manage th 'n witli great dexterity. ]\Iost of the cocking utensils which they now use, arc obtained from traders. These do not often extend beyond a brasa i.v'^*:t!e, a tin pail, and a very few knives. They manufiictuio bowls very ingeniously from tlie horns of the bufl'alo; and sometimes larger and more solid ones, from the horns of the big-horn or mountain sheep. Spoons of very good structure are made of buffalo horn.s; they have alsovarimis kind:' of baskets of rude workinans'hin. Their saddles are rude, some- what resemblinf,- the Spanisli saddle, having i\ high knob forward, and rising high on the back part; generally sitting unea.\v upon the horse's back. Their bridles arc only a rope made of hair or the shag of the buflalo, fastened to the under jaw of the horse, so long as to form a lasso ; this is so coiled in the hand as to ibrni a noose when thrown over tlie horse's head, which is done very dexterously ; and when they are BEYOND THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 1 «c all exertions for | Is this tlic reason !i supiiieiiess over I iciirt-*liiilling ap- iglittii tliein? Is ieiit to teach tliein lieton the borders, salaries, while the prairies in search c ? If so, I bcj,' theories. Let the :e of a fair trial — niissitmanos and d iione need fear iich as to reward ihould so befriend IS are of tiic most extending; nnich iials, anw niakins^ ,' nd arrows, and n.ssinfT skins they inin in any way. and flesh from the I s*one or piece of piece of iron lioop; le bi..l.i.i of sonic ly, and rvib tliein hleach them with loking them, i" f^o oii'ul, about a toot fixture a u ■' feet , point at the top. re, and place the so. iis to make the i process r)ccupies img bufl'al'j robes ing the sk n upon , and fastening it The.., with an in- loper's adze, made ;e of i.on, brought ;. they clear from )ughly dry. After ley work upon it ble thickness and ame condition as into market. It d by the women, osts a woman to how little is paid obacco or a l)unch nerally receives. >st elastic wood, imali: glued upon jf the Slime sub- heavy wood, one ,ir ])ointed iron, feather. Their g execution, and •ity. ['h they now use, not often extend I very few knives. niously from the irger and more lorn or mountain ure are made of kinds of baskets s are rude, ^^ome- , having i\ high the back jiart ; se's back. Their ir the shag of the of the horse, so i)iled in the hand the horse's head, 1 when they are mounted, the rope, or leather thong which is often used in its place, trails along upon the ground. This is ometinic's left upon the horse's neck, when he is turne' lOr a short time to feed, for the conve- nience of more easily catching him. Tiieir can.n.-!, before they obtained iron hatchets from the traders, Avere, with great labour and patience, made with hatchets of stone; and even now this is a W(jrk of great labour. A eanoe of ^ood construction is valued as high i's one or two good horses. Their fishing-nets are also well constructed, formed of wild f ix, and in every particular like cir scoop nets. As regards the religion of the Indians, we have already .stated tliiio they believe in one God, in the immortality of the soul, and in future rewards and punishments. But while these are the piominent points of their belief, their definite idtis of a religious nature appear to be extremely limited both in number and in compvobensi^-eness. As much as this, however, appears to be true: — They believe in one Great Spirit, w J ; lias ceaied all things, governs all important events, and who is 'he author of all good, and the only object oi religious homage. They believe that he may be displeased with them for their bad conduct, and in his displeasure bring calamities upon them. They also believe in an evil spirit, whom they call ciiiim kericki mcohot cinmo-c'imo ; that is, the black chief below, who is the autlior of all evils which befall them \mdeserved as a purishment from the Great Spirit above. They believe in the immortality of the soul — that it enters the future world with a similar form, and in like circumstances to those under which it ex- isted in this life. They suppose that in a future state, I'-e happiness of the good consists in an abundance and enjoyment of those things whicli they value here; that their presc- .' sources of lr\ppincss will be carried to perfection ; and tliatthepunishmentof the bad will con- sist in entire exclusion from every source of happiness and in finding all causes of misery here greatly mul- tiplied hereafter. Thus, their ideas of futme hajipiness and misery are fi)imd to vary according to their diffe- re it situations and employments in life. It is difficult, if not imjiossible, to ascertain any thing of their reli- gious lielief beyond these general notions. The number of words and terms in their l.inguage expres- sive of abstract and spiritual ideas, is very small, so that those who wish to instruct them in these subjects, are compelled tii do it by means of illustrations and circumlocutions, and tht introduction of words from foreign languages. Besides, ctnscious of their igno- rance, they are for the most part unwilling to expose it. by revealing the little knowledge which liiey pos- sess. Indeed, wherever a feeling of ignorance upon any subject prevails, we fin., that jiU endeavours to elicit the true amount of knowledge are repelled or evaded. Thus, even men of talents and education, who converse fluently upon most subjects, are oft'Mi silent when religious topics are introduced. I am far from belii" .ng the many long and strange iraditions witli which we are often entertained. It is more than proliable, that they are in most instances the gratuitous olferings of designing and artful traders and hunters to that curiosity wliicli is ever awake and attentive to subjects of this description. The Indians themselves would often be as much surprised at the rehearsal of tliese traditions as those are for whose amusement they are f ibricated. My own opinion is confirmed by that of several gentlemen of integrity and veracity, who stand at the head of the Hudson's Bay Company, who have long been resident in the Indian country, and who have become extensively uccpiainted with their languages. The Indians west of the great chain of mountains have no wars among themselves, and appear to be averse to all war, and do not enter into battle except in self-defence, and then only in the last extremity. Their only wars are witii the Ulackfeet Indians, whose country is along the cast border of the llocky Sloun- tains, and who a"e constantly roving about in war parties, on both sides of the mountains, in quest of plunder. AVhcn the Indians on the west meet with any of these war iiarties, they avoid an eneimnter if possible, but if they are eonii)elled to fight, they show a firm, undaunted, unconquerable spirit, and rush ujion their enemies with the greatest impetuosity ; and it is said that one Xez I'erce or Flathead warrior is a match for three Blackfeei. The only advantage which the latter liave over tiie former consists in tlieir imm- hers, there being nu>iv tlian twenty thousand of the Blackfeet Indiiuis. When an enemy is discovered, every horse is driven into eani]), and the women take charge of them, while every man seizes hi.>= weapons of war, whatever they may be, mounts his horse, and waits fir n and undismayeil to sec if hostilities must ensue. If a battle cannot be avoided .leii they rush forward to meet their foes, throwing then. selves flat upon their horses as they draw near, and fl-e, and wtieel, and re-load, and again rut-li fnll speetl to the second enc muter. Tliis is co'itiimed until victory is decided, w.iieli is as often l)y the faiiure of ammuni- tion as by the loss of men. Very frequently, when, the Blackfeet see v^hite men with the Nez i'erces or Flatheads, they decline a battle, though tliey them- selves may be far superior in mmibers, knowing that the white men can furnish a large snp])ly of ammuni- tion ; and in such cases they will raise a flag, and come in to smoke the pipe of iieace. The Kez I'erce or Flathead chief, on such an occasion, will say, " We accept your offer to smoke the pipe of peace, but it is not in ignorance that your heart 'is war, and your hand blood ; but •••q love peace. You give us the pipe, but blood always fi.llows." ^ut +V.cse Indians arc not without their vices. Gambling is one of the most prominent, and is a ruling passion, which thej' will gratify to the last extremity. It is developed in running horses, and in foot-races by men, women, and children ; they also have some games of chance played with sticks or bones. When I told the Nez I'erces that gambling is as much a violation of the tenth conmiandment as stealing, in as f;'r as it is a coveting of the property of another, and taking it witlKmtc'mpensation ; they said they did not know this before, 'out now they knew that God for- bade it, they would do so no more. Jlost of the tribes of the plains are remarkably free from the crime of steal- ing. It is scarcely known at all, except among the Shoshones nation, where it is practised to a consider- able degree, ut less so tiian in former times. Drunken- ness is a sti'anger vice among these Indians ; l)ut what they would do, if ardent spirits were introduced among them, is a diffc'ent tiling, and it is most devoutly ^o be dcLiired that the trial may never be made. How- ever, it is only the expense of trans])ortation that prevents its introduction. A man from the United States attempted to construct a distillery upon the Willamette Hiver, but fuiled in his oliject Irom the want of suitable materials. The moral disposition of these Indians is very com- mendable, certainly as much so as that of any })eople that can be named. They are kind to strangers, and remarkably so to each otiier. While among tliem I saw no contentions, nor did I hear anj' angiy words from one to another. They manifest an uncommon desire to be instructed, that they may obey and fulfil all moral obligations. Harmony and peace prevail in all their domestic concerns. But in ease they have any diHicult subject, wliich tliey do not know how to dispose of, they go to their chiefs, and if it involves any important principle, tin; chiefs bring the case to any white man who may be among them, to obtain his opinion, which is generally followed. They are scrupulously honest in all their dealings, and lying is scarcely known. They say they fear to sin against the Great Spirit, and therefore they have but one heart, and tlieir tongue is straight and not forked. And so correctly does the law written upon their U t' \ 62 rARKER'S JOURNEY hearts accord with the written huv of God, that every infraction of the seventh command of the d'.'culogue is punished ^vith severity. I have not witnessed many things indicative of their being very superstitious. ThepraeticcoftlieSliosliones, in cutting themselves as a token of grief for tlie dead, I have already mentioned. Tiie Carriers burn their dead. When a person dies, all the relations must ho assembled, to do which often occupies many days ; and if a husband is deceased, the wife must sleep witli the body to show her affection for him ; and when the body is laid upon the funeral i)ile, she must, during thehurning, freciuently put her hands upon his bosom. Their first chief lost bis wife. He was asked if he ■would show the atfection for her which was required of otiiers. He thought, on accoimt of his station, he might he excused. The people were urgent, and he consented ; but, on account of the pain he endured, he was willing the practice should be ameliorated, and it is hoped it will soon be abolished. They have no unlucky days ; but, as a substitute for the white man's Friday, they pay attention to the liowliiig of a large wolf, whii;h they call the medicine wolf. If they hear this when travelling, a sadness is at once visible in their countenances, as foreboding some calamity near. Among their superstitions may be classed tlieir mode of curing diseases. They have what arc called medicine men, who make no pretensions to any know- ledge of diseases or skill in medicine ; but they have a bag in which is_ deposited various relics, not to be administered to their patients, but to operate as charms. The patient is stretched upon the gi-ound ; a number of persons encircle him and sing the medi- cine song. The medicine man enters the circle and commences his magical incantations ; uses nmch ges- ticulation, and utters inarticulate sounds ; he pats or kneads the patient with his bands, beginniny very softly, and gradually increasing to a considerable degree of severity — blows into the patient's ears, and practises other like ceremonies. By the process employed, the patient is often much fatigued, and thrown into a free perspiration, and his imagination is much excited. When the iriction has been sidHciently em])loyed, tlie imagination well wrought upon, and the medicine bag has invisibly imparted its virtues, the medicine man exhibits some trifling article, such as a small bone, a stick, or pebble, and says he has taken it from the body of the patient, in which it had beeii the cause of the disease ; or be gives a heavy puff upward, and saying that the disease has come out of the patient and gone upward, asks him if he does not feel better. The patient says j-es ; for he certainly feels better in being relieved from tlit cura- tive process. And often the effect is iiernuuient ; for the friction may have been beneficial, and the ima- gination performs wonders. The medicine man stands responsible for the life of his patient. If the issue be fatal, his own life is not unfrequently taken l)y some of the relatives of the deceased. He makes a heavy charge for bis services, ofteP demanding a horse; and why should he not? for who in such cases would en- danger his life without being ^\v\\ paid? In some parts of the country, but more especialh' in the lower country, the lives of medicine men are short, and it might be supposed that this w(nild deter others from entering into the jirofession. But the love of fame ami wealth is powerful among heathen as Avell as among civilised communities, where there are those who wili sell their souls, as well as their iiodies, to gratify tlieir sinful propensities. Undoubtedly the me't wappciiii, twelve ; ncep't tit, twenty ; and in like manner to one hundred, and so on to a thousand by hundree pendulous; and, at im early age, they utimmmm tmpvm^ " "m" i j »i M'iir wBii8iw jn"ni > nir'?"• practised in the upper coimtrv, tint has been long sill r iibnlished. The Walla- Walla »:il» are descended frdiii shncs 1'ormerly owned and iitiented by the Kez I'err.' Ii iians, and are now a resiiectable trilie. Gambling isalsoprai sed among tli lower Indians, and carried by them to peiii would not deserve commiseration. The Indians, however, do not set their semis upon the hazard of the game, as civilised gamblers do, when they inijirecate the eternal ven- geance of God upon the ir souls if they are not suc- cessful. The Indian ga.nbles away his rights for tiniu only. It is a imiversal practice to indulge in smoking; and, when they saturate their bodies with smoke, they do it in a dignified manner. They use but little tobacco, mixing with it a ])lant which renders the fume less oficnsive. It is a social luxury, for the en- joyment of which tluy form a circle, and only one jiipe is used. 'I'lie princijial chief begins by drawing three whifl's, the first of which he sends upward, and then passes the ])ipe to the jierson next in dignity ; and in like manner the instrument passes around, until it conies to the first chief again. He then draws four whiffs, the last of which he blows through his nose in two columns, in circling ascent, as through a double- fined chimney. AVhile thus employed, some topic of business is discussed, or some exploit in the chase or story of the battle-field is related; and the whole is con- ducted with gravity. Their pipes are variously con- structed, and of dillercnt materials. Some of them arc I I J' .f^ 54 PARKER'S JOURNEY M '8 I i' I' I. ■.. IN^ l«! ,;|J'.ij: v.rought, with much labour and ingenuity, of iiu arjjil- laceous stone, of very fine texture, found at the north of Queen Charlotte's Island, and of a bhie-hlaek colour. The same kind of stone is fcmnd upon the head-waters of the jNIissouri, except that the colour of the latter is hrick red. Tliese stones, when first taken out of the (luarries, are soft and are easily worked with a knife, l)ut on beinn' exposed to the air they become hard, and take a jrood iiolish. 'ilie Indians in ihe lower country arc more indolent than in the ui)per; and the conmiou motives for in- dustry operate reversely from those in civilised com- munities. Tlic more they can get for their labour, the less they will do; the more they can get for an article of sale, the less they will liring into market. Their want-* are but few, and when tliese are supplied, they will do no more. They have no disposition to hoard up treasures, nor any enlarged i)lans to execute, re- quiring expense and labour. If they have any par- ticular i;resent want to su])ply, they will do only what is sulficiert to satisfy it, and make no further effort unti! urged by a recurring necessity. To make them industrious and provident, you must induce them to set a liiglier estimate upon the comforts of life, and show them that these are attainable, as well as that there is an increase of liappiness growing out of in- dustry ; and this they must be taught by exiierience. Abstract reasoning and theories are of no avail with tlie Indians. They must be taught experimentally, at their own houses, and upon their own lands. An Indiiui may be taken abroad and instructed, and con- vinced of tlie advantages of civilisation above bar- barism ; yet, if sent back to his country alone, he will become discouraged, and return to his former habits. Experimental farmers and missionaries must go among them, and make it the business of their lives to do them good, identifying their personal interests with theirs. Charges of indolence, insensibility, and cruelty, will never make them wiser or better. He is the true phi- lanthroiiist, who, instead of passing by on the other side, goes directly to them, and does all in his power to raise tliem from their degradation, and bring thein to God and to heaven. The Indians of the lower country, although less anxious to be instructed in the things of religion than those in the prairies, yet express a readiness to receive instructors. I have not found among them, nor among any Indians lieyond the intiuence of frontier settle- ments, any thing like what has been stated to have taken jilace in other sections of oiu' country, and in other times: I have not found it true that they will listen to statements made by missionaries, give their assent to what is said as very good, and then state their own theories of religion, expecting the same cour- teous assent in return. Neither have I seen any dis- position manifested on their part, to say the Christian religion is very good for white men, but that red men need a dilferent religion and mode of life. They are conscious of their ignorance of God and salvation, and of tlie various arts and sciences. AV' hile an indifference and apathy cliaracterise some, wliicli is discouraging, yet tliere lias been nothing manifested which is for- bidding. Though gratitude is a general characteristic of In- dians, yot they have in some cases their peculiar way of expressing it. An Indian liad a son labouring for a long time inider a languishing and dangerous coin- ])laiiit. Tlieir medicine uien had done all they could for him, but without success. Tlie father brouglithis son to the hospital at Fort Vancouver, and earnestly desired to have him treated with care and witii the best medical attendance. The sick son was received, and in about six months was restored to good health. AVlien his father came to take liiiii home, he remarked to Dr IM'Langhlin, " My son is a good boy, he has been witli yon a long time, and I think you must love liini; and now, as he is about to leave you, will you not give him a blanket and shirt, and as many iW other small things as you think will be good ? AVe shall always love you." The lower Indians make their medicine in some par- ticulars diflerently from those farther east. Their pro- fessed object is to obtain present relief, if not a radical cure ; to assuage the sorrow of the relatives if the patient dies ; and to make sure that he die easily, and that his soul may be rendered more capable of per- forming its journey to its far distant and liapjn' country. The process is simple, but occupies five or six hours. The iiatient is laid upon a bed of mats and blankets, sometimes a little elevated, and surrounded by a frame- work. Two medicine men place themselves upon this frame, and commence a chant in a low, long-drawn tone, each holding in his hand a wand three or four feet long, with which they beat upon the frame, keeping time to theirtune. They gradually increase the loudness and the movement of their medicine song, with a cor- respondent use of their wands, until the noise becomes almost deafening, and undoubtedly, often worries the patient out of the world. During this time, the near relations appear to be perfectly indifferent to the con- dition of the sick person, lest their anxiety should affect the influence of the charm ; and they are gene- rally employed about their common business, the women nuaking mats, baskets, and moccasins, while the men are loUing about, smoking, or conversing upon common subjects. In some cases, especially if their confidence in the medicine man is slight, they mani- fest much affliction and concern, and in all cases, after the person dies, they make great lamentation. I have ''-eady mentioned the practice which the lower Indians have of flattening their heads and jiicrcing their noses. But another reported custom, of having pieces of sea-horse's tusks, or oval pieces of wood an inch and a half long and an inch wide, in- serted into a hole in their mider lip, made for the purpose, is not correct in regi>"d to any of the Indians in this section of country. Captain Beechy mentions this as a common practice from Norton's Island and northward. Deshnow, as long ago as 1648, noticed the same ornament to be worn hy men and by women about Prince William's Sound ; and the same custom, Captain Beechy says, is common along the western shores > f America, as far as California. I saw some spechnLiis of this ornament, or rather deformity, which were wdi n by the Indians at IMillbank Sound. The wealth of the low jr Indians is estimated by the number of tlieir wives, slaves, and canoes. Every Indian of any distinction takes as many wives as he is able to support, and his wealtli is supposed to ac- cord with tlie number. They are (^nite destitute of horses, and their general mode of travelling is in canoes; for tlie fiu'csts are so dense that they are nearly impenetrable, and they do not construct any roads. As the ujiper Indians excel in horsemanship, so the lower excel in tlf management of their canoes. These are uncommonl well made, and of various sizes, from twelve to thirty feet long; the largest will carry as much as a good bateau. They are generally made of the fir-tree. Tlieir bow and stern are raised high, so as to meet and ward off the boisterous wave?;, and the bow is sometimes decorated with figures of animals. Slaves are employed in propelling tlie canoes, but not exclusively; for often the chiefs will perform their part of the labour, and the women are equally expert with the men. Their manufactures arc much the same as those of the upper country, only with the addition of hats and baskets of uncommonly good workmanship, made of grass of superior quality, equal to the Leghorn. The native hats are a flaring ccme. Their baskets are worked so closely as to hold water, and arc used for pails. Some of them are interwoven with various cohmrs and devices, fancifully representing men, horses, and flowers. The government of the Indian nations isin thohands of chiefs, whose office is hereditary, or obtained by ll be good? ^Ye icine in some par- ■ east. Their pro- jf, if not ara(liciil 1 relatives if tlic lie (lie easily, and ! capable of per- id happy country, five or six hours, its and blankets, nided by a frame- nselves upon this low, long-drawn nd three or four ie frame, keeping rease the loudness song, with acor- lie noise becomes often worries the is time, the near erent to the con- • anxiety should id they are gene- )n business, the moccasins, while conversing upon specially if their ight, they niani- in ail cases, after lentation. ictice which the their heads and lorted custom, of )r oval pieces of m inch wide, in- p, made for the nyof the Indians Beechy mentions ton's Island and 1648, noticed the and by women he same custom, mg the western ia. I saw some leformity, which 'a Sound, estimated by the canoes. Every my wives as he supposed to ac- lite destitute of travelling is in that they are construct any n horsemanship, of their canoes, and of various the largest will oy are generally stern are raised oisterous wave?!, with figures of propelling the the chiefs will the wonn.li are same as those of tion of hats and inship, nuide of Leghorn. The eir baskets are nd are used for n with various ingmen, horses, IS is in the hands or obtained by BEYOND THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 55 ■ some special merit. Their only power lies in the influ- ence derived from their wisdom, benevolence, and cou- rage. Tiiey exercise authority by persuasion, stating what in their judgment they believe to Ik; right and for the greatest good of their trilje or nation, or of any family or community. The chiefs have no power of levying taxes, and they are so much in the habit of contributing their own property for individual or public good, that they are not generally wealthy. Their influence, however, is great ; for they rarely ex- press an opinion or desire which is not readily assented to and followed. Any unreasonable dissent is subdued by the common voice of the jieopk-. Probably there is no government upon earth where there is so much personal and political freedom, and at the same time so little anarchy ; and I can unhesitatingly say, that I have nowhere witnessed so much subordination, peace, and friendship, as among the Indians in the Oregon territory. The day may be rued, when their order and harmony shall be interrupted by any instru- mentality whatever. There are exceptions, liowever, to the general good conduct of the chiefs, and the respect which is eiv^n to them. Cazenovc, the first chief of the Chenook nation, is one instance in pcjint. He was a great warri(jr, and before the desolating sickness, wbi'^h commenced in the year 1829, he could bring a thou- sand warriors into action. lie is a man of talent, and his personal appearance is noble, and ought to repre- sent a nature kind and generous ; but such is his cha- racter, that his influence is retained among his people more by fear than by affection. I saw him often, and several times at my room, while at Fort Vancouver. On Tuesday, February 2d, I attended the funeral of his only son, and the heir to his chieftainship, a young man, who had lingered under a protractt.'d dis- ease. Cazenovc departed from the long-establishod custom of his nation and fathers, of depositing Uieir dead in canoes, and had him buried in th cemetery of the Fort, in the decent manner of civilised people. He had the cofiin made large, for the purpose of putting into it clotliing, blankets, and such other articles as he supiiosed necessary for his son's comfort in the world to which lie had gone. Every thing connected with the ceremony of his interment was conducted with great propriety. I was not at the time furnished witli an interpreter, but addressed those present who under- stood English. Cazenovc expressed his satisfaction that an address was given, considering it an expres- sion of respect for his sou ; and he appeared solemn in his affliction, indulging in tears only, and not in any loud lamentations. Had he conducted himself with equal propriety subseciucntly, he would have been worthy of commendation. But he did not ; for when he retur led to his dwelling that evening, he attempted to kill the mother of this deceased son, the daughter of Cor .nly, and formerly the wife of Mr M'Dougal. The chiefs say, that they and their sons are too great to die of themselves ; and, although they may be sick, decline, and die, as others do, yet somebody, or an evil spirit instigated by somebody, is the invisible cause of their death ; and therefore, when a chief or his son dies, the supposed author of the deed must be killed. Cazenovc, on this occasion, fixed on the mother of this .son as the victim of his rage, notwith- standing that she had been most assiduous in her at- tention to him during his protracted sickness. Of the chief's several wives, she was the most beloved ; and his misguided mind led him to believe, that the greater tlie sacrifice, the greater would be the niani- fi'station of attachment to his son, and the more jiro- pitiatory to the departed spirit. The wife fied into the woods, and the next morning, when the gates were opened, she came into the fort and implored jirotec- tion. She was secreted here for several days, until her friends at Chenook Hay heard of her situation, and ciimc and secretly took her away. Some diiys after this, a woman was found killed by the luuid of violeiiee, and it was supposed to have been done by Cazenovi', or at his instigation. NUM15EK.S OF THE INDIAN TRinKP. Maiicji 1st. — AVe have many indications of the pre- sence of spring. The mildness of tlie climate, and the soft temperature of the season west of the moun- tains, render this one of the most deliglitful portions of our Continent. The sudilen extremes of lieat and cold to which the eastern portions are subject, are almost unknown here; and while the climate is more agree- able to our feelings, it is also more favourable to health. Those Avho have tlie charge of the farming establish- ment at this place, have coinnieiicoy sick- ness, as the other nations of the lower country have, it is probable that their whole number of men, women, and children, woidd not now amount to more than eight thousand. Near the mouth of the Columbia, along the coast, are the Killamooks, whose numbers are great, but not accurately known. South of these, and at the iiicith of the Umbaqua River, are the Saliutla, and iwo other tribes, supposed to number about two thousand per- sons. This estimate of the Indians in tlie lower countrj', makes the number of those known to be about twenty- five thousand. This is probably a low estimate. It may safely be concluded, from facts now collected, that there are, between the 42d and 47th degrees of north latitude, in w hat we term tlic lower country, as many as twenty-five thousand more, making in all fifty thousand, who at the present moment would gladly receive teachers. Gentlemen of the Hudson's Bay Company gave the following statements of the number of Indians north of I'uget's Sound. At Alillbank Sound, three tribes, numbering two thousand one hundred and eighty-six. At llygana Harbour, five tribes or bands, amounting to upwards of two thousand. At Queen Charlotte's Island, eleven trilies, numbering eight thousand six hundred persons. About Hanaga and Chatham Straits, there are nine tril)es, containing six thousand one hun- dred and sixty persons. Thus, the whole number of inhabitants, at and about these phices, between the 47th and UMi degree of north latitude, may be esti- mated at upwards of nineteen thousand. At Queen Charlotte's Island, there is a field of nnich promise for a missionary station, where the necessaries of life could be easily obtained ; and for that high northern latitude, the climate is very mild. Their summer and winter residences are built; of split plank, in nearly the saniemaniier as those of the Chenooks. It is said tliey are well supplied with fish, fowl, oil, berries, and potatoes of superior quality and in great abundance ; and wild meat is sometimes ob- tained. Tlieir dress is much the same as what has already been dcseriljcd. Polygamy prevails, and also slavery. They do not treat their slaves so kindly as the Indians in the lower country of the Oregon ter- ritory treat theirs. They think no more of killing their slaves than as affects the loss of propcrt.y. Some- times, when one chief becomes offended with another, instead of fighting a duel, he goes home and kills a certain nimiber of slaves, and challenges the other to kill as many. The challenged jierson, if he can, kills as many or more, and notifies the challenger of the number; and thus they proceed, until one or the otlier gaini the victory, and the one who fails in this mode of combat ceases to be a gentleman. " The point of honour" with these barliarous gentry is fixe(l higher than in our Christian country ; for the life of one satis- fies the powerful principle among enlightened men, wliile among the Indians, blood nnist fiow profusely to quench the nol)le fire of high-minded revenge. They are not unfrequently cngjiged in Avars, Avhieh are often very l)loody. They are nnu'h addicted to gambling, singing, and dancing, and it is said their voices are of a superior order. The country is mountainous, and is generally covered with dense forests, consisting mostly of fir. On and about jM'Kenzic Kiver there are six tribes of f!:;'.i:'.ns, making a poimlation of alu)ut four thousand two hundred and seventy-five. Tlie clin\ate is very cold and mipleasant ; but, cold and iminviting as it is, the Hudson's Bay Conijiany have found men who are willing to reside there in sufficient muubers to make six establishments, for the purpose of obtaining the peltries which the Indians collec't. Their jirincipal establishment, which is Fort Simi)son, is on the upper part of the river, and is a iilaee of much resort for the Indians. March 2Gtli. — Kodc down once more to the lower plains, as they are called, and was delighted with the freshness of the wheat fields, whicli are lieginning to wave in the gentle breezes, !Uid the forest-trees are begiiming to show the'" leaves, and tiie plants then' fiowers. The sea-fo(vl which through the winter covered these fields, are gone to their summer resi- dences, and the little feathered tribes are tuning their melodious voices. The question whose country f'.iis is, has been much agitated in the Parliament of Great Britain an ' in the Congress of the United States. The native; ilaim it as fii^irs, and say they only permit white men to re- side among them. But tlie governments of Great Britain and of the United States have both assumed a right to parts of the country — that of Great Britain BEYOND THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. «7 country, as nianv ikiiif,' in all fifty leiit Mould gladly , 'ompany gave the of Indians nortli mild, three tribes, cd and eighty-six. band?, amounting Invcn Charlotte's ght thousand six Ciiathani Straits, housand one hun- wliole number of ices, betuecn the ide, may be esti- ^and. At Queen iiiueh jjromise for sarios of life could lortheru latitude, ices are built of er as tliose of the upplied with fish, erior quality and is sometimes ob- iine as what has )revails, and also ives so kindl}^ as the Oregon ter- more of killing projierty. Sonie- ed with another, ionic and kills a ges the other to I, if he can, kills hallenger of the one or tlie other siils in this mode "The point of ' is fixed higher ' life of one satis- nligliteiied men, tiow jirofiisel^' to revenge. They which are often ed to gambling, eir voices arc of ntainous, and is nisisting mostly are six tvil)cs it four thousand climate is very inviting as it is, id men who are imbers to make r obtaining the riicir jirineipal is on tiie upjier h resort for the e to the lower H'lited with the e lieginning to brcst-trees are lie plants their 4h the winter summer resi- re tuning their lias been much tain an Mn the itive; ^laim it ite men to re- lents of Great loth assumed a Great Britahi claiming the Columbia IJiver for their southern boundary, and the United States the 49tli degree of north latitude for their northern boundary. The two governments have discussed the question, but post- poned it until 1838,* when it is to Ix- again taken up for discussion. The United States claim the 49th de- gree, on the ground that, as that i)arallel is established on the east side of the Hocky Mountains, so, by parity of reasoning, it should be continued to the I'aeifie Ocean. Great IJritain claims tlie Cohnubia Hiver for her southern boundary 1)y right of discovery, Captain Broughton of tlie ship Cliathani having ascended the river with two boats, as far as the point where Fort Vancouver is now situated, and having formallj'' taken posscssitm of the river and country in the name of his Britannic Majesty, on the 31st of October 1792. Cap- tain Bnmghton was associated with Captain Van- couver of the ship Discovery, on an exploratory voyage in the North Pacific and around the world. I'osscs- sion was taken in his Britannic Majesty's name, in due form. A friendly old chief, who did not understand a word of their language, nor they a word of his, was in- vited to join in the ceremony, and todrink his majesty's health. Captain Broughton saj's the chief appeared much pleased with the transaction. But it may be a subject of inquiry, with what the friendly old chief was best pleased — with the rum he drank on the occasion, or with the ceremonj' which was so full of import ? And farther, did the chief, by partaking of his ma- jesty's rum and joining in the ceremony, concede all this country to be the l)07m fide property of a foreign nation ? These deep and intricate questions I leave for learned diplomatists to decide, retaining my pri- vate opinion tliat the Indians have a priority of claim. The time has arrived wlien I expect to resume tlie work of exploration. The weeks and months which I have spent here have fled rapidly away, while I have been feebly endeavouring during the winter to hencfit the people of the fort, and the Indians, and to embrace all the opportunities that should present, to collect information on those points which pertain to the direct object of mj' tour. I shall yet wander for a length of time among the wild scenes of nature, which have so gratified and delighted me in traversing the Avilderness of forest and prairie ; but my heart looks back to a variety of the interesting scenes of civilised life and cultivated society in my own far dis- tant land, and I ardently desire to see the wide field lying beft)re me brought under the same beauty and cultivation. All the social tendencies of our nature strongly desire the happiness which refined society alone can give. A feeling of solitariness and of deso- lation comcb over the mind, as you stand on the banks of the noble Columbia, while perhaps for weeks, it may be for months, no whitened sail becomes visible to your watching eye. At length a ship enters its waters, and the Indians hasten fiftj' miles to tell "you that the white man's great canoe, with its three up- right sticks, is on its way, to bring a new supply of blankets, beads, and tobacco. The most unimportant incidents become interesting events, where so much monotony exists. IVIonday, 11th April. — Ilavuig made arrangements to leave this jilace on the I4tli, I called upon the chief- clerk for my bill. lie said the company had made no bill against me, but felt a pleasm-e in gratuitously conferring all tliey had done, for the benefit of the object in which I was engaged. In justice to my own feelings, and in gratitude to the honourable company, I would bear testimony to their uniform politeness and generosity ; and while I d( this, I would express my anxiety for their salvation, and that they may be rewarded in spiritual blessings. In addition to the civilities I had received as a guest, I had drawn upon their store for clothing and goods to pay my Indians, * [It Is iierlinps iinneccssnry to state, that this question still re- nrnins unsettled. Murelt lU-d.] whom I had einidoyed to convey nie In canoes, in my various journeyings, for hundreds of miles ; to pay my guides and interpreters ; and I had also drawn upon their provision store for the support of these men while in my employ. DEPAnTURE FOR THE UPPER COUNTRY.-ARRIVAL AT WAI.LA-WALLA. April 14th. — Having exchanged farewells with the gentlemen of the fort, whose kindness I shall ever re- member, I took passage in a canoe of an Indian chief belonging to the La Dalles. Our company consisted of the chief and his daughter, another Indian who took the bow, a half-blood named Baptiste, who took the stern, and two white men, who, with the chief, helped to projiel the canoe, making seven persons in all. These, with the baggage of several hundredweight, loaded the frail craft so heavily, that its sides were only about seven inches above water. This, upon a river averaging about a mile in width, with many rapids, find subject to winds, was not a pleasant un- dertaking. But at this season of the year, when the Indians are about to commence fishing, another canoe could not be obtained. We proceeded up the rive, about twelve miles, to what are called the tipper plains, on the north side of the river, and there we encamped upon a rich and beautiful prairie of some miles in circumference, which, at this early part of the spring, was covered with a coat of fresh green grass, five or six inches high. A little back from the river tliere is a beautiful lake, which is the resort of water-fowl, sailing about, exhi- biting their unsullied plumage ; and in the rear are forests of fir, whither the deer which crop the grass of the prairie flee, when they .see men ascend the river's bank. A gathering s^orm rendered the night dark, cold, and dreary ; for as yet no friendly habita- tions have been reared ujion these fertile fields, for the resort and comfort of man. The rain continuiufj, with some wind, we did not decamp on the morning of the 15th, until a late hour; after which we passed up into the mountainous part of the country below the cascades, and encamped near the high Pillar-Kock which I have mentioned. Soon after leaving our encampment this morning, we met Captain AVyeth, with a small company of men, in two canoes lashed together, on their way to Fort William ujion Wappatoo Island. They were wet with the rain of the morning ; and their meagre countenances and tattered garments did not speak much in favour of the happiness of mountain life, or announce that they had found the hunter's elysium. But they were in good spirits, and passed merrily on their way. The basaltic rocks, which wall up the shores, in some places two and three hundred feet in perpendicular height, and extending for miles, do not lose in inte- rest by review. For more than half a mile the basalt presented regular pentagons. Near these rocks, where the shore was inaccessible, we found a d(;er almost exhausted with swimming in the cold water. Its con- dition, and its mild, large, black eye, excited by fear, pleaded for the exercise of humanity ; but our men, instead of rendering it that assistance which it needed, shot it, and stained the pure water of the river with its blood. I could not help feeling a sympathy for this poor beautiful animal. While the men, on the morning of the ICtli, were engaged in taking the canoe up the rapids and the cascades, I walked five miles, sometimes along the shore of the river, and sometimes climbing over pre- cipices ; and so laborious was the task to get the canoe above all the rapids and fiUls, that it occupied most of the day, giving me time for examining the scenery around. Almost every variety of volcanic production was to be seen, mostly basalt and amygdaloid. Large I W 58 PARKER'S JOURNEY m qiiantities of potrified wood wore scattered along the shores, some of which preserved its natural appear- ance, Imt on being broken presented the appearance of nihieral coal. The scenery around is grand ; yet such was the misty state of tlie atniospliere about the tops of the mountains, wlii''h were at tliis time covered witli snow, and so chill v s the air, that the enjoy- ment Mas less than would lave been felt under other circumstances. After Jiaving finished tlie portage by the cascades, we launched out ui)on the gentle current above, jn'oceeded uj) the river two miles, and encamped upon tile nortli side. Several Indians came to our encampment, and manifested a kind and sociable dis- position. Tliey told us tiiat Captain Wyeth, the day before, in co.iklliiHi his canoes down the cascades, lost one, and with it baggage, of which they had found some artic;les, and which the}' intended to deliver to him when he s.hould again pass this way. The Indians are coming in from their winter retreats, and are en- gaged in catching sturgeon. The 17th being the Sabbath, we did not remove. It was a wet day, during the fore part of which the rain came down in torrents, which is common about these mountains through the rainy season of the year. We were not able to make a fire for preparing food until after twelve o'clock, when the rain began to abate. On ^Monday the weather was more pleasant, though chilly, and we made very gooil progress up the river, through a country of diversified scenery. Though less mountainous, yet there were some mountains of interesting forms : we saw one almost a perfect cone, a thousand feet higli, rising at an angle of 45 degrees, beautifully smootii, and covered with grass. We passed, a few ndles above this, a blufl'rock, presenting a jierpendicular semicircle, regularly'' stellated. In diflerent places there were red hills of the colour of well-l)urnt brick. We encamped on the north side of the river, upon a pleasant spot just above a small In- dian village, where we found a good supply of dry wood, which added both to our comfort and conve- nience. A wind which blcAv very fresh throtigli the night abated on tlie morning on the 10th, and we proceeded on our way with a gentle breeze, before which M-e spread a sail made of a blanket. The wind continued to increase until the middle of the day, rendering our navigation rather dangerous. We came to a large bend in the river, and to save the labour of coasting around the bend, the men who rowed the canoe wished to pass over to the south side of the river, which was here more than a mile wide. This seemed a dangerous experiment, because the wind and waves were too high for our deep-laden canoe ; but as they were anxious to save labour, I did not jiersist in my objections. We had not got more than half-way across, before the in- creasing wind raised waves which rolled and broke three times as high as our canoe, and threatened to overwhelm us. At length, the men were unable to keep the head of the canoe to the waves, and it turned sidewaj's to them. It seemed that nothing short of a miraculous act of Providence could save us. After some tinie, however, by exertion, and by some abate- ment of the wind, we got our canoe ujion her course and across the waves, and safely arrived at the soutli shore. Eut our greatest danger was not over. After coasting a few miles along the south shore, we came to a promontory called Cape Horn, a name given it on account of the danger of passing it. It is of basaltic formation, rising two hundred feet, as I afterwards found by measurement, in perpendicidar height above the water's edge, extending about a mile in length, and the lower end projecting several liundred feet into the river. Tlie wind had so far lulled, that we did not apprehend any danger in passing it. When we had passed the Horn, the wind veered round and increased to a gale. The foaming, breaking waves ran high, and we could not return against the wind, while to go for- ward was to add to the risk of being swamped or dashed against shoreless rocks. Such was the force of the wind, and such the efforts required to keep the canoe across the waves, and away from the rociis, that, in the same instant of time, the bowman aiul the steers- man both broke their paddles, and the sail broke away from the left fastenings, whirling over to the riglit. It seemed that all hope was gone. There were only three paddles left, two of which were immediately put into the hands of the steersman and bowman. It was im- jiossible to return, and to make progress against the current with the remaining means appeared eciually impracticable. A watery grave seemed inevitable; but so it was in the protecting mercy of God, that when th- waves broke it was just without the canoe. As it was necessary to our safety to be collected and fearless, WG cleared the sail, and gave orders as tlKjugh no danger were near. Contrary to even our highest expectations, we continued to make headway against the current, assistetl probably by one of those large eddies which abound in this river, until we came to a bay with a sandy shore, where we put our frail bark in safety, and waited until the winds and weather became more favourable. Indians came to us, of whom we bought paddles ; and, being again equipped for our voyage, we proceeded up the river towards the La Dalles, as far as we could safely go, and encamped near a large eddy, where, two years before, nine men were drowned by being drawn into it, and their bateau capsized. Only one escaped, which he efTected by laying hold of a bag containing some empty kegs. He was carried some few miles down the river, and taken up by Indians who were passing the river in a canoe. A number of Indians came to us with horses, whom we engaged to take us and our baggage to the navigable water above the falls. The 20th was occupied in passing the La Dalles and the falls, above which we encamped. The Indians, in great numbers, were making their preparations for fishing. This place afTords a favourable location for missionaries. The Indians resort here in large num- bers, and remain usually through the summer, and some of them through the year. An intercourse would be always open with surrounding tribes; and facilities exist, both for disseminating the truths of the gospel, and for obtaining the means of comfortable !:;u))sis- tence. As soon as we had encamped, the Indians came around us, and their first inquiry was for pi-pi (tobacco). I am nmch disgusted with this noxious plant, and am resolved to dismiss it from the list of articles necessary to conciliate the Indians. If an Indian is sufFering from hunger and nakedness, his first request is tobacco. As we had parted with tlie Indians who came with us from Fort Vancouver, wo here engaged two others to assist us as fivr as ^^'alla- Walla. On the 21st we took a bateau which was left here, and made slow progress up the river, against the cur- rent and frequent rapids. Our progress >vas much the same on the 22d. This morning, while encamped for breakf\ist, and while the men were making preparation, I went into a little village near by, and called at a lodge, where I found an elderly and yotmg woman with four little girls. I spoke to them in the Chenook language, but they did not xmderstand it. I then aske;;i, his irted M-ith the ''ancouver, we 1 far as A\'alla- was left here, ;ainst the cur- tvas much the encamped for g preparation, lied at a lodge, nan with four ook language, 1 asked them, lose children, ivere hers, but i had taken to ceeded to tell idition. The put in a few poll her hand, ng the sound he narration, of their lan- y nod assent. Their tenderness appeared to increase by having a stranger's sympathy; and it was with reluctance that I had to leave them without being able to point them to Ilim who is touched with the feeling of our intir- inities, and who binds up the broken heart, and saves from sin. ( )ur encampment on the 24th was on the south side of the river, at a ])lace of much resort for Indians, but who had not come in from their winter retreats. There were here many canoes drawn up at a short distance from the shore, and left "•ithout any apprehensions of their being stolen, showing the confidence which the Indians have in each other's honesty. They do not need guards, or bolts, bars, or state prisons. To secure ourselves from a strong cold wind, we selected a place covered densely with wild broom corn of last year's growth, yet standing, and in the rear of willows which here skirted the shore of the river. Two Indians came to our encampment, who were as mi- serable olijeets as I have seen. They were not more than half covered with tattered skins of rabbits patched together, and they were emaciated with want. To relieve tlie sufferings of such Jjjects of pity, the tra- veller needs to carry with him a store of clothing and provisions. It is distressing to see them, without having the means of furnishing them with substantial su])iilies. On the 25th we made slow progress against the strong current with our jioorly manned bateau, and failing of arriving at AValla- Walla as we had hoped, Ave cncam])ed under the high basaltic rocks, where we found a small spot of soil, furnishing some wood. The next morning we arrived at the fort, where I met, at the landing, a number of Nez Perce Indians waiting my arrival. I felt much satisfaction in seeing them, and in witnessing their tokens of allection. It was like meeting old friends ; and there appeared to be so much unfeigned sincerity in the reception they gave me, that it inspired the hope that the disposition wbiih they express to acquire religious knowledge is '.jased on a foundation more permanent than a mere love of no- velty. I had told a band of the Cayuse Indians last October, on my way down the river, that I would meet them here in the spring, and talk to them about God and the wiiy to worship him. Many of them were now ready to attend to the fullilment of my promise ; and, undouiitedly, my arrival at the ajipointed time con- firmed their confidence. Mr ranibruii manifested his usual friendship. As it was yet early in the season, I judged it expe- dient to continue here two weeks, aud improve such opportunities as might oHer for instruetingthe Indians residing near this i)lacc, and such as might come here from more remote places ; making the best use of such facilities as .'an be obtained, witliout waiting for a 1 borough knowledge of their language, which tlie siov> ]irudence of some persons would consider indispens- al)le to the commencement of teaching them the way of eternal life. Their anxious curiosity to know what the religion of the Bible is, cannot be kept awake while its gratification is postponed. The risk that delay will induce indifference or disgust is as great, as that an carl^- attempt to impart instruction may be marred l)y imperfections. During iny continuance in this ])lacc, I pretfched on the sabbath to the white people belonging to the fort, in the morning, and in the afternoon to the Indians of the Cayuse, \Valla-AValla, and Nez Perce tribes ; and also improved other opportunities with the Indians besides on the sabbath. They always gave great at- tention, and some apjjcar to be much interested. May ad. — I walked down to the passage of the Columbia through the basaltic mountain two miles below the fort, to take a more particular view of the scenery than could be done in a hasty p.ossage up the river. I ascended the mountain, from the top of which I had a fine prospect of the country around, opening; in every direction as far as the eye could reach. All parts were covered witli tlu; Aesli green of spring vegetation. Very few forests wer,' to be seen in any direction, cxceiJting upon the Ulue Moun- tains at the south; but their distance ])resented more of the ha/v blue ;:f the atmospliere than tiie clear outline of forests. Even at this distance, the i)erpe- tual snows of Mount Hood at the west could be dis- tinguished, and on the north-west. Mount Rainier, near Puget's Sound ; and on the north and east, various parts of .scattered mountains. After some time eni- ployi'd in looking aromid upon the vast expanse. I ap- proached the perjicndicular walls between which tlie Columbia descends, and which are about three hun- dred feet higli, as I ascertained by the number of .seconds occupied in the descent of large stones from the brink of the jirccipicc. The sounds of these I distinctly heard when they struck u])on the shore below. I found a great variety of scoria and lava, the latter varying much in colour and density; sonic snlfieiently l)orous and light to swim upon water. Two-tliirds of the way down this dee]) chanuel, are two high emi- nences called the Pillars, to which I descended. Tiiey stand upon conical liases, eighty or a hundred feet in heiglit above tlie river; and above these l)ases rise nearly a hundred feet in perpendicular altitude. They are a curiosity ; but there are so niiiny singular for- mations in this volcanic country, that curiositiis bad become common. I returned, much fatigued \^ ith my long walk over prairie, in-ecipice, and mountain, yet much gratified with the examination of the works of nature. jNIy horses and mule, whicli I had left with the Xez Perce Indians, and which were kept in their country, one hundred and thirty miles east of this place, were in April liroughttothis neighbourhood. To-day, ^lay 5th, they were caught and brought to the fort. I Mas surprised to find them in fine order, with their coats shed, and in high spirits. They had run out on the prairies without any shelter from the storms, and nothing more to eat than Avlnit the remains of the previous summer's growth afforded. AVlio would have supposed, considering their worn-down condition when I left them in October, and with no other fare, that they would have fattened during tlie winter? This fact shows the superior mildness of the climate, and nutritive quality of the prairie grass, even after its being dried up with the summer drought. Another evidence of the truth of this remark may be seen in the condition of the cattle kept at this fort. With nothing more to feed upon than what they find upon the prairies, they now are not only in good order, but some of them are actually fat, and in as good condition for market as oxen driven fro' , the stalls of Kew England. Kode with Mr Pambrun ten miles up the river, to the confluence of the Lewis, or, as it is called, the Nez Perce liiver, with the Columbia. They are both noble rivers; the Columbia near three-fourths of a mile, and the Nez Perce half a mile wide. The ])rospect around is very pleasing; the soil is good, as evidenced by the fresh verdure, which is springing up luxuriantly at this early season. A large band of horses, beKing- ing to a "Walla- Walla chief, are feeding at this place. It is a curious fact, that the Indian horses do not often stray from the place where they are left ; habit, how- ever produced, is as good a safeguard as enclosures. Along the shores of the river I found calcedony and cornelian. Tlie sixth was a very warm day, the thermometer standing at noon at 84 degrees. Distant thunder was heard, which is an nnfreciuent occurrence west of the great mimntains. Through the night the wind blew very strongly, and so shook the bastion Mliieh I oc- cupied, that it seemed about to he prostrated to the earth; but such winds are common in this particular section of the country. ^AMV-i^w^^«M^v«^ 60 PARKER'S JOURNEY 1. I j) ■ 1 : ■ '(11. t i' iriui il<' ' ■Slil' ll'l Hi >!'•!! I iJ* ft THE NF,Z PERCE COUNTRY.-INDUSTRY OF TIIR INDIANf^.-COLVILLi:. In company with severiil Ncz Perce Indians, who liad coniu down from tiicir own country to escort nio, I commenced my journey on the Otli, and pursued tiie same route by which I came hist autumn. Nothinji eventful nuirked oiir journey, an,di as the ]iillar», and Ki-adnally sloiiusofF in hills and dales. Hy whatatfenej- this e.seavation was formed, no rational aeeoinit, per- haps, can he fjiven ; for tliere is no appearance, as in nianv othi-r jjlaces, of volcanic craters, and no sij;iis of till' action jf water. Tliat these walls of basalt wure forced np in dykes, is rational; hut this leaves still lui- explained the mystery of the excavation. May it not have hten a snl)Hidencc ? I passed thronj;l» it leisurely, and surveyed with admiration these huj{e crystals, which show so dearly that fixed laws govern the mineral worM. as well as ttie aniniid ov vegetahle. AVe passed to-day several small villaf^es if the Nez Perce and S])okein nations. Tiiey all man fested a friendl}' disi)osition, hut they appeared to lie poor, evidently in want of a comfortable subsistence. We stopped for the ni;;ht, after a ride of fifty miles, near one of these villages of Spokeins. Their language (litters almost entirely from any tribe or nation 1 have yet seen. One of my Indian guiiles was, however, sufHeiently ac- quainted Avith it. to inform them of the object of my tour through tlieir country, in which they manifested a great interest. We took an early departure on the morning of the afitli, hut had travelled only a few hours before my Indian guides lost the track they sliould imrsue. Becoming confident tliey were not right, 1 alighted and set my pocket compass, and discovered that, instead of a north-east direction, they were going west. In(iuiring of them if they knew where to find our course again, a young chief put his hand to his head, and with gestures expressed the confusion of his mind, answering " Wdiifiten xoko" (I do not know). Our situation was rather embarrassing. We had very in- judiciously left our rifles behind, and were at aliout equal distance from Walla- Walla and Colville, on a widely extended prairie, witli provisions adequate to our wants oidy for two days, and no probable means of obtaining more until we sliould arrive at the fort : to be lost under these circumstances was no pleasant affair. The point of a high mountain wc had passed was in view ; wc might retrace our path, and there- fore I was determined not to lose sight of this land- mark, until we sliould find the trail leading to the iSpokein lUver. AVhile my guides went oil' in search of it, I could hardly fail to find, even in our circinu- stauces, some amusement in the apathy of my two Frenchmen. They are so conlident in the ability of the Indians to find tlieir way through any coimtr}-, as if by intuition, that they will sing or go to sleep when lost in a wide wilderness, with the same heedless in- ditlereuce as when launched upon the waters of a well- known river or pcrfornnng the duties of the fort. They appear wholly unconscious of the approach of hunger and starvation, until long after the last morsel is consumed, and never borrow from futurity to add to the evils tliat afflict them to-daj'. On this occasion, these men spent the time of our detention in calm repose. After some time our guides nsturned, and told nie that they had found some Si)okein Indians about a mile distant, who were travelling towards tlie south, but had stopped to refresh their horses. We i)rocceded to the place, and I engaged one of them to assist us in finding the way to the main trail, or to the Spokein liiver. He was a taU, intelligent-looking man. He mounted his horse, and set oflf with such sjieed, that, jaded as our horses were, it was with difflculty we could keep up with him. After going at this rate more than an hour, he stopped, and i)oiuted to a lake, saying we should find the great trail on the east side. Lest we should again lose our way, I was anxious that he should conduct us to their village on the river, but could not i)revail upon him to go any farther, although I ofiered him a large compensation. His only and unvarying answer was, that he had done for us all that I was needed, and why should he perform an^* unneeca-l sary labour for us and take pay. It appeared to t)e al principle with him, that it would be wrong for him t) take pay for what we difortnne led him, may easily ucconnt for the greater abnndanec of these ani- mals which he describes. Sir Iloss Cox was in thci^pokein woods with his jiarty. ITc fell aslrop, and awoke to the discovery that he was alone. " I ran to the place where the men had made their lire : all, all were gone, and not a vestige of man or horse apjieared in the valley. Jly .-enscs almost failed me. I called ont in vain, in every direction, imtil I beciime hoarse ; and I could no longer conceal from myself the dreadful tiuth, tluit I was alone in a wild uninhabited country, without horse or arms, and destitute of covering." lie wandered on for the rest of die day in tlie direction which he thought likely to bring him to his p.arty, but at last was forced by the night to lie down among some long grass. In the morning he arose, and piusued his solitary journey for the whole day. " I had turned into a northerly course, when, late in the evening, 1 observed, about a mile distiuit, two horsemen galloping in an easterly direc- tion. From their dresses I knew they belonged to our party. I instantly ran to a hillock, and called out in a voice to which hunger had imparted a supernatural shrillness ; but they galloped on. I then took off my shirt, which I waved in a conspicuous manner over my head, iieconipanied by tlie most frantic cries; still they continued on. I ran towiu-ds the direction they were galloping, despair adding wings to my fliitht. Rocks, stubble, and brushwood, were passed with the speed of a hunted antelope — but to no purpose ; for on arriving at the place where I ima- gined a pathway would have brought me into their track, I was comjiletely at fault. It was now nearly dark. I had eaten nothing since the noon of the preceding day ; and, faint with hunger and fatigue, threw myself on the gniss, when I heard a small rustling noise behind mo. I turned round, and, witli horror, beheld a large rattlesnake cooling himself in the evening shade. I instantly retreated, on observing which, he coiled himself. Having obtained a large stone, 1 advanced slowly on him, and, taking a proper aim, dashed it with all my force on the reptile's head, which I buried in the ground beneath the stone." On the next day, the '2!)th, he pursued his route, with swoln feet, and almost without clotlios ; and, in the evening, stopt again, having tasted no food for forty- eight hours, which deprivation was rendered the more distressing by the numbersof edible fowl continually in his sight, but which, having no arms, he could not touch. On the 2()tli, he walked on in a deplorable state. " The rattlesnakes were very numerous this day, with horned lizards, and grasshoppers ; the latter kept me in a constant state of feverish alarm from the similarity of the noise made by their wings to the sound of the rattles of the snako when preparing to dart on its prey. I suffered severely during the day from hunger, and was obliged to chew grass occasiunally. Whc rods y> keeps two Wl jileasai the lat us that would at sum heard them would gaye. strengt Wl \ BEYOND THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. (i3 (Ifncforiisiill tlmtl form any iiiineces- t iiiipeiirc'd to Ik; :i| ! WTdiii,' for liliu ti)I I was astonislicdl 1 Iiis steadfast ad-f >\v many tlifru aru id, wouldlt'n.i,'tlicnj , and who would ( iL'lifve it vtry ini- oriusty, I not only |, )i», but afterwards f lis, urtick'S highly I te arrived at tiie | I. A fuw miles t :cin woods, wiijcli cllow, pitcii, and and fir, tojjetlicr esc are tlie woods x)ut tlie circum- very interesting e had as yet an fiins far nion.' fic- f growli!.^ bears, nakes — of wliich — may yet come Ciix'a .lournnl, will iman in tlie (Spoljein ) i\v I'mkcr, wo be- 3trutli. Air Parker 111 rattlesnakes, not ids as tlio wolf, and Dx's niisfdrtune led dance of these ani- I Iiis party. He Ml s alone. " I ran to ; uU, all were gone, in tlie valley. My in every direction, inceal from myself inhabited country, 1K-" Ilewanilered ho thought likely od by the night to ning he arose, and " I had turned ;ning, I observed, J an easterly direc- 'il to our party. I a voice to which but they galloped in a conspicuous lost frantic cries; rection they were Hocks, stubt)Ic, I liunteil antelope lace where I iiiia- heir track, I was lad eaten nothing with hunger and il a small rustling horror, beheld a hade. I instantly "laving obtained inga proper aim, , which 1 biiried it day, the 2<)tli, without clotlu's; 10 food for flirty- more distressing light, but whieli, II, he walked on very numerous the latter kept similarity of tho ties of the snako severely during is3 occasionally. When wc ramc to the river, which is nl)out thirty rods wide, we liall(xa'd a loun time for (lie Indian who keeps a canoe ferry, luit witiiout success. At kMi>;tii two women came to tlie river, and with unconnnoidy ])leasant voices, tojjether with the lantfuavfe of sijfns, the hitter of which only I could understand, informed lis that the ferryman was jfone upon a short hunt, but would return in the eveninjj; and that next morninp, nt sunrise, he would come and take us over. 1 never heard voices more exjiressive of kindness. I i'ei|uestcd them to paddle the eaniH! over to us, and my men would iH'rform the labour of ferryiiifj over our l)a,ir- fjage. They declined, on account of the rajiidity and strength of the current, the river lieing in full freshet. Wi bad therefore to encamp and wait till morning. riiis is 11 very i)leasant ojien valley, thouj^h not Avide. The North-West Company had a trading-])o8t here, one bastion of which is still standing. These woods present a line range for the ornithologist. The magpie is seen in great numl>ers, flying from tree to tree, and vociferating its chattering notes. Thrushes, warblers, and wrens, are also numerous, and cheer those otherwise solitary wilds with their .delightful songs, grateful to the weary traveller. Their carols which allayed it a little." He got a meal of wild cherries on this iiii;li mil next day moved onwards. " I had armed myself with I 111.,' htick, with which during the day I killed several rattle- si; '.cs. 'laving discovered no fresh tracks, I returned lato in the evening, hungry and thirsty, and took possession of my litrtli of tlie preceding night. I collected a heap of stones from the water hide ; anil just as I was lying down, observed a wolf emerge from the ojiposite cavern, and thinking it safer to act on the oflensive, lest lie sliould iiiiagiiie I was afraid, I threw some stones at him, one of which struck lihii on the leg : he retired yelling into his den ; and after waiting some time in fearful suspense to se<- if he would rcajipear, I threw myself on the ground and fell asU'eji." Wild cherries served him for his onlj' diet during the 2'M, :i4th, and a'itli. Still he was able to pursue his joyless and almost hope- li';« journey. " About dusk an immense-sized wolf rushed out of a thick copse a short distanco from the pathway, planted him- self directly before nie, in a threatening position, and appeared detcrinined to dispute my passage, lie was not more than twenty feet from me. My situation was desperate, and as I knew that the least symptom of fear would be the sienal for attack, I pre- sented my stick, and shouted as loud as my weak voice would permit. He ajiiiearcd somewhat startled, and retreated » few steps, still keeping his jiiercing eyes tiniily fixed on me. I ad- vanced a littr , when he commenced howling in a most appalling manner ; and supposing his intention was to collect a feiv of his comrades to assist in making nn afternoon repast on my half- famished carcass, I redoubled my cries, until I had almost lost the power of utterance, at the same time c;illing out various names, thinking I might make it appear I was not alone. An ol'' and a young IjTix ran close past me, but did not stop. The wolf re- mained about fifteen minutes in the same position, but whether my wild and fearful exclamations deterred any others from join- ing him I cannot say. Finding at length my determination not to flinch, and that no assistance was likely to come, he retreated into the wood, and disappeared in the surrounding gloom. The shades of night were now descending fast, when I came to a verdant spot surrounded by small trees, and full of rushes, which induced me to hope for water ; but, after searching for some time, I was still doomed to bitter disappointment. A shal- low lake or pond had been there, which the long drought and heat had dried up. I then pulled a quantity of the rushes and spread them at the foot of a large stone, which I intended for my pillow ; but as I was about throwing myself down, a rattlesnake coiled, with the head erect, and the forked tongue extended in a state of frightful oscillation, caught my eye immediately under the stone. I instantly retreated a short distance, but ussumiiig fresh courage, soon dispatched it with my stick. On examining the spot more minutely, a largo cluster of them appeared under the stone, the whole of which I rooted out and destroyed. This was hardly accomplished, when upwards of a dozen snakes of dift'ercnt descriptions, chiefly dark-brown, blue, and green, made their ap- pearance : they were much quicker in their movements than tlieir rattle-tailed brethren, and I could only kill n few of them. This was a peculiarly soul-trying moment. I had tasted no fruit since the morning before, and after a painful day's march under a biuning sun, could not procure a drop of water to allay my feverish thirst. I was surroimded by a murderous brood of E ipcar designeil to animate each otluT in tlicir inter- vals (if laliour, wliile constructing tlu' fabric so admi- raiily adapted for the habitation of tln'ir tender off- spring ; on an examination of which, the most infidel ]iliili'S(>pher must In- astonished, and must Ih' coii- stiniiieil to acknowledge, that (iod has manifested him.self in supplying, instead of reason, a mysterious, unerring instinct, always suflicient for the end to bu accomplished. On the 27th, about the time in the morning men- tioned by the two women, the liulian ferryman came, and crossed the river in his canoe. His ajijieariuice, together with that of his canoe, reminded me of yl'.neas' ferryman, who carried him over the Stygian Lake. " t'anitios inculta jacct ; .SirdidiiH ex liiimoris nodo dcpcnilet amictus * * * Ctrrulcam advertit pu|ipim, ripaMpie propmquat.'' [And there doth Charon stand, A sordid god; down from his hoary chin A length of heard descends, uiicoiubed, unclean ; lie turns his azure prow, and nears the land. fiiyil, Honk K/.] After passing the river, we crossed tho valley, which consists of level alluvial soil, and is here upwards of a serpents, and ferocious beasts of prey, and without even the con- solation of knowing when such misery might have a probable ter- mination. I might truly say with tho royal psalmist, that ' the snares of death compassed me round about.' Having collected a fresh supiily of rushes, which I spread sonio distanco from the spot where I massacred the reptiles, I threw myself on them, and was iiermitted, through divine goodness, to enjoy a night of undisturbed repose." On the 2(ith, he reached a small stream, and, with the water, hips, and cherries, thought his comforts great. " On looking about for i place to sleep, I observed, lying on the ground, the hollow trunk of a Large pine, which had been destroyed by light- ning. I retrcited into the cavity, and having covered myst'lf completely with large pieces of loose bark, quickly fell asleep. My repose was not of long duration, for at the end of iibuut two hours I was awakened by the growling of a bear, which had re- moved part of the bark covering, and >v.is leaning over nie with his snout, hesitating as to the means he should adopt to dislodge me, the narrow limits of the trunk which confined my body pre- venting him from making the attack with advantage. I instantly sprung up, seized my stick, and uttered a loud cry, which startled him, and caused him to recede a few steps, when he stopped, and turned about apparently doubtful whether he would commence an attack. He determined on an assault ; but feeling I had not sufficient strength to meet such an unequal enemy, I thought it prudent to retreat, and accordingly scrambled up an adjoining tree. Sly flight gave fresh impulse to his courage, ami he com- menced ascending after me. I succeedtHl, however, in gaining a branch, which gave me a decided advantage over him, and from which I was enabled to annoy his muzzle and claws in such a manner with my stick as effectually to check his progress. After serai •■ '8 the bark some time with rage and disappointment, he gave up the task, and retired to my late dormitory, of which he took possession. The fear of falling oil', in case 1 was overcome by sleep, induced mc to make several attempts to descend ; but each attempt aroused my ursine sentinel, and after many inefl'eo- tual eftbrts, I was obliged to remain there during the rest of the night. I fixed myself in that part of the trunk from which tho principal grand branches forked, and which prevented mc from falling during my fitful slumbers. On the morning of the L^th, a little after simrise, tho bear quitted tho trunk, shook himself, ' cast a longing lingering look ' towards me, and slowly disaiipcared in search of his morning repast. After waiting some time, ap- prehensive of his return, I descended and resumed my journey through the woods in a nortli-north-east direction." At last, after spending fourteen days in this awful condition in the wilderness, serenaded nightly by wolves and bears, Mr Cox fell in with a party of Indians, who told him that his friends had been long in earnest search of him. They put him upon the right track, and came up with his party, some of whom were cutting timber. They did not know him, but, when they recognised their lost companion, "away went saws, hatchets, and axes, and each man rushed forward to the tents, where we had by this time arrived. It is needless to say that our astonishment and de- light at my miraculous escape were mutual. The friendly Indians were liberally rewarded ; the men were allowed a holiday, and every countenance bore the smile of joy and happiness."] fi^'" I .54 PARKER'S JOURNEY «; [II mile wide ; tho oast side is cspeciiilly fertile. Here the village of the Spokeins is located, and one of tlieir number has conmienced tho cultivation of a iniall field or garden, which he has planted with jiotatoes, jieas, and beans, and some other vefjetables, all of which were flourishing, and were the flrst I had seen springing up under Indian industry n-e. •■ of the moun- tains. Our ferryman conducted us through tho v.-iUey, to the foot of the mount^un on the east, and pointed out tlie trail we shoidil pursue. As v. e wound our way U]y the mountain, I looked down into tho vale we had crossed, and which stretches along the winding river, and I drew in my hnagination a picture of what this valley ■vN'ill be, when the people are brought under the influence of Christianity and civilisation. This section of country presents fewer traces of volcai.ic action ; and in several places I found granite in its natural ^orm and position, resembling that found in tlic eastern states, When wo had arrived at the sum- mit of the moimtain, we came to a sandy plain several miles wide, covered with yellow pine, forming an open wood. Over parts of this plain were scattered volcanic masses, of singular formation. Hundreds of regiflar cones were seen, of various magnitudes, from a few feet in diameter and height, to a hundred in diameter and sixty feet of height. They all had tUe jame ap- pearance, only dift'ering in magiiitude ; and were com- posed of broken granite, in angular pieces, some as small as six or eight inches in diameter, and on the outside nciU'l}' black, as if coloured with rising smoke. They had more the appearance of being broken by manual labour, and jiiled up for future use in con- structing roads or wharfs, than of being tho result of internal tires, though no other cause but the latter can be assigned. Tlie sandy plain around them was undis- turbed, with largo pine-trees growing a. mt, as in other places. On tho south of these were large rocks of granite, and in one p!"'c a basaltic dyke, extending for a hundred rods or more. After passing this plain, wc descended and came again to the Spokein liivor, which makes a bend around to the north-east. In this place the valley is less extensive and the mountains more precipitous. AVe again ascended the mountain, upon which granite and mica- slate abound, without any volcanic appear- ances. From this avo descended into a rich valley, whieii was covered with a luxuriant growth of grass, though but just springing up. This valley has the appearance of having been a lake, filled \ip with moun- iain dejiosits. In the centre is a small sheet of water, from wiiieh a small rivulet passes out at tho south- west. Leaving this place, we wound around amotm- tain in a northerly direction, down a valley less fertile but. more extensive, and at foiu* in the afternoon we came to a stream of water, flowing from tlie mountains on tho east, where our guides said we nmst slop for the night. Near evening, many Spokein and some Xez Vercc Indians came riding into the place of our encampment, and turned out tlieir hin'.ses with ours in the half-wood and half-prairie ground. Tho Spokeius, who had soon me on my way, and had l(>arned who I wis, sent out information to tho various hunting ])arties, that a niinisttu' was passing through their cmmtry, and, as it was the flrst time any one was ever among thom, they wished to see him, and hear what he had to say to them. They brought with thein a good interpreter, a young man of their nation, who had bei'ii to school at the Ked Hivcr settlement on the oast side ()f tho nioimtain, and who hai' a very good knowledge of English. M'e hiul pubHc worship that evening in tho Spokein and Noz I'erce languages. One of tho Nez Perjos, a eiiief, understood tho Spokjin language, and coUoct'jd his peoiilo a little back of the Spokeius, and translated the disciairst', as it was delivered, into tho language of his people, without any intorru]>tion to the service. This was a plan of their own devising. All the eircimistanccs combined were to me very inte- resting. If I had not been delayed three several tlmeS; they would not have had time to collect their people and overtake me. Some of them had been engaged in the business of assembling and following a day and a half. Many of them were unwi!'ing to return, and expressed their determination to go witli me to Col- ville, where they might receive religious instruction. The morning of tho f 3th was cloudy, and some rain fell ; but this did not prevent our taking an early depar- ture, for it was necessary to be on our way, as my men had the evening before consimiod their entire stock of provisions, and let what would take place, wo could obtain no more imtil we reached Colvillo. AVe could not obtain any game ; fir, being advised by tho supcr- intendant of Walla-AValla not to encumber ourselves with rifles, we had unwisely left them behind. After travelling a few miles in an easterly direction, wc came to a very fertile valley, extending north and south at least fifty miles, and of various extent in width, from hi'lf a mile to two miles. It is well adapted for cultiva- titm. This valley is an open prairie, well sui>])lied with grass, and, even in this high latitude of 4.S degrees, cattle could live well through the whole year, without the labour of cutting hay. The hills on each side are covered with woods. As wc jiroceeded down this valley, wo came to villages of Indians who understood tho Spokein language, but belonging to another tribe, probal)ly to the Ca3ur d'Alcne. Near tlieir principal village, we camo to Mill Kiver, then in full freshet. They had no canoes, and we found difficulty in getting my baggage across. But the Xez IVrce chief took part of it upon his shoidders, m(mnted his hors(>, and swam over, and crossed and I'ocrossed until all was upon the other side. 1 then crossed upon a i)ole, which was not tho most desirable method, but still it was jirc- ferablo to a cold bathing on horseback. After pur- suing our course a few miles farther, I divided my remaining stock of eatables with my destitute Krench and Indian attendants, leaving tho anticipation of ouv next meal to the time when, after a long day's indus- trious travel, we shouldfind ourselves safely at Colvillo. Towards the lower jiart of the valley through which we were passing, tho land is remarkably fertile. A missionary located hero would have easy access to tlie Spokein, Sapwell, Sintou-too-oidish, Kettle -Falls. Lake, Cccur d'Alene, and Pondera Indians. I know not of so important a field within two hundred miles, or one so presenting the natural advantages of mild climate, good soil, and forests, all combined. AVo arrived at Fort Colvillo late in the afternoon, after a weary journey of sixty miles. The situation of this fort is on an elevn*'od spot, aliout fifty rods from tho river, surroimded by an alluvial plain of rich soil, and opening in every direction upon an extended pro- spect of mountain scenery. Half a mile below are tho Kettle Falls, above which the river spreads out widely, and moves slowly, until just above the precipice, when it contracts into a narrow channel, and disap- pears from the view of tho spectator, who beholds it from tho fort Avinding its way among rocks below. This establishment is built for defence, and is well stoccaded; but so friendly have the natives always boon, that no wars have over (jceurred among them. It is occupied by some half-dozen men, with Indian families, and is well supi)lied with tho useful animals and fowls common to farming establishments. The winter and summer grains, together with garden vege- tables, are cultivated with ."'.'.ccess and in profusion. This place does not sutfor from summer drought, as many other parts of this couniry do, rains being of frequi'nt occurrence. 1 was disappointed in not finding ilr ^['Donald, tho superintendant of the fort, at home. He had left a few days before, with a brigade for Fort A'^ancouver; but the kindest attention was paid me by those who had the ('hargo of tho fort. I found here an old man, who, thirty years before, had accompiuiiod Lewis anil Clarke across the continent, and hud for several years imUiSnrS' BEYOND THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 65 •ee several times, lect their people been enfjaged in ving a (lay and a I !^ to return, and with nio to Col- ious instruction. .y, and sonie rain \g an early depar- ■ "vvay, as my men iir entire stock of place, we eoul( ville. We could sed l)y the super- :umher oiu'selves II beliind. After irection, we came irth and south at t in width, from ipted for cultiva- X'U suii])lied with le of 48 degrees, ole year, without on each side are I'eded down this s wlio understood to another tribe, .r their iirincipal 1 in full freshet, fficulty in getting I'erce chief took ?d his horse, and sed until all was pon a pole, which it still it was jire- ick. After piu*- ;r, I divided my destitute I'Yench iiticipatioM of ouv long day's indiis- safely atColville. y through which vably fertile. A asv access to the 1,' Kettle -Falls, idians. I know o hundred miles, uitages of miki ibined. n the afternoon. The sitiiation ut fifty rods from ilaiu of rich soil, m extended pro- lile below are the reads out widely, 2 the pre('ii)ice, imel, and disa])- , who beholds it ng rocks below, nee, and is well natives always d among them, en, with Indian useful animals lishments. The ith garden vege- nd in profusion, mer drought, as J, rains being of ; ]Mr ]\rDonald, le. He had left •'ort Vancouver; le by those who lere an old man, anied Lewis and for scverul years past taken up his residence in Tort Colvillc. lie is in the employ of the fur company, and acts as interpreter to the neighbouring Indians. On sabbath, 29th, the people of the fort who understood English assembled, and we worshipped that Being who had protected us hitherto, anel from ditlerent nations had collected us in a little group in this end of the world. The Indians, too, came about me, and expressed great anxiety to be taught the re- vealed will of God. They endeavoured to make me xmderstund what their former traditionary belief and practices had been, and to let me know that wluit they had learned from me was so reasonable and satis- factory to tiiem, that they wished to know all that related to so important and momentous a subject. Ihit our medium of comnnmication was inade(juate to a full disclosure of the interesting truths connected with the scheme of Christian redemjition. "Wherever I have met with the natives of this distant region, they have invariably, Avith earnestness and with importunity, asked the gift of the gospel from the hands of Chris- tians. On IMonday, the 30th of May, we conmienced our journey down the Columbia. The brigade having taken all the boats from this place on their late passage to Fort "Vancouver, we were compelled to take horses for Okanagan. T .'hanged my guides for two others — one a Spokein, and the other a I'aloose — retaining my two voyageurs. As we left Fort Colville, we had a fine view of Kettle Falls. The t.'olumbia was in its freshet, and as it rolled down in a broken cataract for a distance of one hundred feet, it formed a sublime spectacle. The whole scenery, as we proceeded down the river, was marked by variety, wildncss, and ro- m . tic grandeur, as if nature, in decking these re- mc regions, had indulged for her own annisemcnt in jome of her most playful and tasteful fancies. The mountains around are constructed on a scale of great magnificence, presenting almost all the varieties of elevation, precipice!, and forest. This is the coun- try which, by more than one of my predecessors in travel, has been celebrated as the abode of wolves, bears, ami rattlesnakes, to an extent that renders it almost impenetrable by ordinary coiu'age ; but wo found no indications of the presence of these animals before this evening, when the distant barking of prairie wolves for once interrupted the universal silence by which we were surrounded. After a few hours' ride, on the morning of the 31st, we recrossed the Spokein Hiver just above its entrance into the Columbia. This large valley is capable of supporting a much moi-e numerous i)()pulation than now obtain a subsistence in it by himting and fishing. The Indians residing here afibrded us very cheerfully all the assistance we needed in crossing the river. In the neighbourhood of this place I discovered a moun- tain of rich and very beautiful marble, situated on the south side of the Columbia Kiver ; some sections are pure while or saeeharine, while others are beautifully clouded with blue and brown. It eli'ervesced freely with sulphuric acid. This will in time l)ecome very valuable, for being upon navigable waters, it can be transported into various countries. Several miles below this mountain, I was interested by a remark- able juxtaposition of granite and basalt. It was on an elevated piece of land, one hundred and fifty feet above the river. Near the river there were large (luantities of solid granite, not having the appearance of ever having undergone an igneous infiueiiee; and near by, to the left, A\'is a stujieiidous dyke of basalt, rising two hundred feet, iiresentiiig the appearance of having been thrown up by several successive volcanic erup- tions. The earth on the back side gradi";!!/ rose to n mountain. At this place we left the river, to save tniversing a great bend, and took a W(!sterly course, expecting to arrive at it again before night. We pursued our way over an elevated prairie, destitute of wood and water. It was evident night would ovcrtuKC us before wo could reach the river, unless we should urge forward with all the speed that humanity towards our horses would permit. Before five o'clock we came near to a great gulf, walled up with basalt, which, we sup- posed, embosomed the deep-fiowing Columbia. Our next object Avas to find a place Avliere we could des« cend to its shores. After ranging along for two or three miles, we found an entrance by a ravine ; but. to our disappointment, it was the Grand Coule, which was undoubtedly the fnriner channel of the rive:'* AVith considerable difiieulty we descended into it, and found it well covered with grass, and by searching, obtained a small supply of water. This quondam channel of the river is nearly a mile wide, with a level bottom, and studded with islands. Its sides are lined, as the river itself is in many places, with basaltic rocks, of two and three hundred feet in perpendicular height. This coide separates to the left from the present channel of the Columbia, about one hundred miles below Colville, and after a bend of about one hundred in length, again unites with the river. The basaltic ajipearances are exhiliited hero as in other places, furnishing evidences of eruptions at diftereiit periods of time. A peculiarity in this instance was a stratum of yellow earth, eight or ten feet in thick- ness, lietween the strata of bas;ilt. Those who have travelled through the whole length of the Coule, repre- sent it as having the same general features throughout, while the whole distance of the river, around to the place where it again luiites, as I know from personal oliservatioii, has not the peculiarity of a deep channel cut through the rocks. We left the Grand Coule early on the morning of the 1st of June, and with diffi- culty ascended the western bank. Before noon my guides lost their way to Okanagan, and wandered far out upon the wide prairie, where there Avas no water. Losing my confidence in their knowledge of the country, excei)t on some frecpjented track, I directed my course for the river, and perceiving a Siiow-topped mountain in the distance, I concluded the river must lie between it and ourselves, and accordingly made it my hindmark. I'm'suing this direction a few hours Avith rapid speed, Ave came to a slope, Avhich gradually narroAved into a ravine, and introduced us at length to a spring of Avater. Our thirsty horses rushed into it, and it Avas Avith difiieulty Ave could control their excess in drinking. We followed this ravine, the Avater of Avhicli eontiiiually gained accessions until it became a large stream, with a rich valley of alluvial bottom, and united its Avaters with the Columbia, a fcAv miles aboA^c Fort Okanagan, the place of 'HP" destination. Fort Okanagan is situated on the north side of the Columbia. aboA-e the confiuence of the Okanagan Uiver, from Avliich, and from the Indians residing in its vicinity, the fort takes its name. It Avas first built by Mr David Stuart, a partner of the American Fur Company, in 1811. There is an ojien space of con- siderable extent around, lint the soil is of an inferior quality, hard and gravelly, but producing grass to supply the cattle and horses belonging to the station. A few fertile spots of alluvial soil are found in the vicinity. The Columbia does not appear to have con- tinued so long in its ])resent channel, after leaving the (iraiid Coule, as to form those extensive alluvial bot- toms Avliieh exist in many other parts of its course. After leaving the Spokein Avoods, there is very little forest to sujiply timber for fuel, fencing, or building. They are deiieiulent on flood-wood, which descends the river, for their ordinary fuel, and the freshets generally furnish a large supply. Not far distant, at the north, there are snoAV-topped mountains, but the country here is not remarkably mountainous. At this place I had an opportunity of seeing some of the Okanagan tribe. Their iiersonid appearance is less noble tlian that of the Spokeins, but they are not less peaceable, friendly, and honest in their dispositions. This is evident i'rom the fact, that the charge of the fort, in cf^'' V 66 PARKER'S JOURNEY i". vp. r ; i. ml \ ( ■ tlif absence of Captain Ogden, tlie supcrintemlant, was committed temporarily to a Frenchman and seve- ral of tiie Indians. Tills tribe, witli the Slioosliaps, numl)er about two tliousand persons. Tliey are nnieli employed in the salmon-fishery, and lartre quantities are prepared by drying for tlieir winter's use. Their country does not abound in game, and hunting oc- cupies but little of their time. The climate here, as in other jjarts of the Oregon territory, is very mild and F'dubrious. Wishing to pursue my way down the river, I hired two Indians to assist my two Frenchmen in navigat- ing a bateau wliich we ()l)tained at tliis place, and committed our horses to my Indian guides, to take tliem across the country to Walla- Walla. My confi- dence in the honesty of these men was without any suspicion, and I could trust them with our six horses. Baddies, and bridles, to go on any enterprise within their capacity to accomplish. Tiiey have so much self-respect, that they would not on any account com- mit a crime which would expel them from their peojile, induce them to seek concealment, or abridge their liberties as freemen. We embarked in our boat, June i2d, to perform a voyage of four hundred miles, with the river in full freshet, and its strong current, increased by high ■water, secured to ns a velocity beyond the ordinary rate. We passed several rapids, and dashed over the breaking surges, wliere tiic least mismanagement would have been inevitable submersion, without any chance of escape. But my voyageurs showed, by their adroitness at tlie oar, that they were upon their fa- vourite element; and their gaiety and songs began to revive on being relieved from the rough and to them unpleasant journey on horseback, over hills, down ravines, and through forests. The elasticify of their native character was almost inmiediately apparent, and we glided on with celerity, making a voyage of one hundred miles before it was necessary to seek our safety for the night on shore. The country through Avliich we passed to-day was ratiier mountainous. I saw many locations of granite in its natural state, but as we proceeded, volcanic eruptions began to appear. and the granite cxhit)ited the effects of intense lieat, until it wholl.v disappeared, and breccia, amygdaloid, basalt, and hiva, took its place. In the iifternoon we passed a section of rock, two liun(h-ed and fifty feet in perpendicular height, half way to the toj) of which a petrified tree of considerable magnitude is suspended. It appears to be retained in its place liy having its roots inserted in the crevices of tiie rocks, between the layers of different eruptions. 1 low it came to oc- cupy so elevated a situation is inexplicable. It could not have vegetated there, unless, at the time of its growth, it was sujiported by a surface upon which to rise ; and, taking the present condition of the rocks into view, it could not be deiiosited there by any floods of the river, as certainly it could not in such case in- tertwine its roots in the crevices of the rocks. (Jen- tlcnien of the Hudson's Bay Company, and others who navigate this river, have amused themselves by shoot- ing offpieces with their rifles, and they assured me that it was wholly a petrifaction. Our encampment this evening was a few miles above the Long Hapids, which extend nine miles. On the 3d, as we approached the Long Flapids, they presented, about fifty miles above Walla-Walla, the appearance of waves rolling under a strong breeze of wind, and their distant murmur broke U])on the still- ness of the morning. To jiass them unscathed is an undertaking which retpiires courage and self-])os- session; but knowing that these inland navigators are experienced in all the dangers of boating excur- Bions, I had but little drawback upon the pleasure which I anticipated from a swift descent over them. With much care and exertion on the part of the men, we safely outrode them, for a distance of nine miles, in forty minutes. It is this variety of falls, cascades. and rapids, together with the ever- varying scenery of nature's wildest and grandest forms, that keeps the mind from wearying, and awakens almost perpetually some new emotions and energies, while performing a voyage of several hundred miles in open bateaux or light canoes. Not unfrequently, in the stillness and solitude of the river, when it assumed its more placid features, such a sense of security is enjoj'cd, tiiat a resort to books, to assist in a profitable disposition of time, is jiracticable. The hundred miles of ground which wo passed to- day are level and destitute of wood. I observed a bank of clay, in laj'ers of diversified structure, resem- bling the basaltic strata which I liavc often noticed. The different sections were of various colours — some dusky red, some yellow and blue, and others white, making often an upright elevation of one hundred feet or more. Salman are ascending the river in great numbers, and groups of Indians are scattered along the hanks, pursuing the employment of catching them. Wherever we passed them, the^' came off in their canoes, bringing salmon to sell, some of wliich were roasted in the best manner, and served up on broad pieces of bark, which answered a good purpose in the absence of plates ; and often large leaves of plants were spread neatly upon the bark. JNly vo3'ageurs f()und sufficient employment in the graciflcation of their appetites, to interrupt for a while their anecdote and song. We arrived at Walla- Walla in the evening, just in time to find a .shelter from one of the most vio- lent thunder-storms, acccmpanied with wind, which I have witnessed in this country. Hncli storms are of rare occurrence west of the mountains. INDIANS OF TIIT5 UPPEU COUXTRY.-JOURNKYFROai WALLAWALLA TO FOHT VANCOUVER. Having travelled over the most important parts of the upper country, and collected the facts of its phy- sical condition, together with the location, character, and condition of the most numerous tribes of Indians, it may be proper, before leaving this section of tue territory w-est of the Kocky Mountains, to give a con- nected summary of these particulars. On the south part of tlie Oregon territory, aucli storms arc lins. JOURNKY FROai fCOUVEH. portant parts of facts of its phy- ition, character, ribes of Indians. s section of tue IS, to give aeon- . On the south ng Upper Cali- Snake Indians, of their delinite >, that they are itry is decidedly ins ; most parts t'olcanic produc- as terms indica- nurees, they are 5. Some of them s, and they very ■ason of fishing, es. When they lisplay, advunc- inost fantastical lents of feathers, nnials, arrai- 'd te. Their war- ; and those who fond of showing md through tlie y dismount, and ' hands. I luid f the Utaws at 1 to the east and head M'aters of elf into the (Jidf four thousand and peaetalile !e to strangei-p, They live l-y its and berries. Their dress is plain, and their manners are unassum- ing. Their country is warm, of tine climate, and good soil. Proceeding northwards, we come to the country of theNez Perces, which has many fertile jiarts adapted to tillage, and all of which is a line grazing country. They number about two thousand five hundred ; but they have been so often mentioned, that I need not add to what has been said of them. The Cayuses are situated to the west of the Xez Perces, and very nmch resemble them in person, dress, habits, and morals. They are equally peaceable, honest, and hospitable to strangers. Tiiey numi)er more than two thousand persons. Their wealth con- sists in horses, which are unusually tine and nume- rous ; it being no unconnnon thing for one man to own several hundred. Their country, especially about the Grand Kound, is imcommonly fertile, producing spontaneouslj' canunas in great abinidance, \\\mi\ which, witli fish and some game, the}' principally subsist. Their anxiety to be instructed in the way of salvation is as great as that of the Nez Perces and Flatheads. The Walla-Walla Indians inhabit the country about the river of the same name, and range some distance below, along the Columbia Kiver. The number of persons in this tribe is about five hundred. In their character, employments, and moral hal)its, they do not materiality diHer from the last-named tribes. The Palooses are properly a section of the Nez Perces, and are in all respects like them. Their resi- dence is along the Xez Perce Kiver and up tlie I'avi- lion. They number about three hundred. Tlie four last-named trilios speak the same language, with a little dialectical difference. North-east of the Pahjoses arc the Spokein nation. They number about eight hundred persons, besides some small tribesadjoining them, who might be counted a part of the .r nation. I have so fully described them, that it is uiniecessary to enlarge upon their charac- ter. The'.r country is very uuich diversified Avith mountains and valleys, prairies and woods; and a large part is of primitive formation ; some parts are very fertile. They denominate themselves the Children of the' Sun, which in their language is called spohein. Their main dependence for subsistence is upon fishing .-lod iiunting, together with gathering roots and berries. I have stated that a connnencement is made in agri- culture, which, it nuiy be hoped, will be generally adopted, so that their present precarious mode of liv- ing may give place to that which will be beneficial. They possess a considerable number of horses. East of these are the Cieur d'Alene Indian':,, whose numbers arc -ibout seven hundred, and who are clia- raeterised by civility, honesty, and kindi.ess. Their country is nmre open than the Hpokeins', and equally if not better adapted to agriculture. The country ■>♦' the Flatheads is still farther east and south-east, and extends tc the Eocky IMountains. They are a very interesting tribe, dignified in their persons, noble, frank, anil generous in their disposi- tions, and have always slio«n a firm .attachment to white men. They uumlter aljont eight hundred per- sons, and live a wandering life. For subsistence thej' follow the butlidoes uiion the waters of the Clarke ai.d Salmon liivers, and often pass over to the head waters of the Missouri They have liecome a small tribe by constant wars with the Ulackfeet Indians, tliough tlu-y themselves are not of a ferocious or hostile disiKisition. IJeing averse to war, they wish to settle upon their lands, and are only waiting, to be instructed in the arts of civilisation and Ciiristianity. Their country is mo\nitainous, but intersected with pleasant fertile valleys, large portions of wliieli are prairie. The mountains are cold, but in the valleys tlie climate is mild. An anecdote was related by a chief of this nation, which illustrates their native character, and the pro- peuuty of Indians to imitation. He said tliat he first saw white men when he was young. It was summer. He said, These are a new iieople, they look cold, their faces are -white and red ; go, make a large fire, and I will ask thein to come and warm tlieniselves. In a short time his jieople had made a fire, and brought new buHIilo robes. The white men came into his lodge, and he wrapped them in the robes and seated them by the fire that they might be warm. The robes slipped ott'— he rejilaced them. Soon the white men made signs to smoke their jupe. The chief thoutrht they asked for food, and brought them meat. The white men gave him the ])ipe and they smoked; and after this tliey loved smoke and the white men, and said they were good. U'lie I'oiideras are so like the Flatheads in person, maimers, and character, that a particular description of them nun- be dispensed with. 'I'liey number about two tliousaiid two hundred, and live on the nortli of Clarke's Kiver, and on a lake which takes its name from the tribe. Their country has many fertile parts, and would soon lie put under cultivation if they could obtain instructors to teach them agriculture and im- part to them a knowledge of those things which ai'e necessary to constitute a hapi)y and jirosperous com- munity. Their language is the same as the Sjiokeins' and Flatheads'. The Cootanies inhabit a section of country to the north of the Poiideras, along M'Gilli- vray's Kiver, and they are represented as an uiieoni- nioiily interesting jieople. They speak a language distinct from all the trilns about them, open and so- norous, and free from gutturals, which are common in the language of the surrounding tribes. They are neat in their jiersons and lodges, candid .and honest, and kind to eaeli other. I could not ascertain their numliers, but probably they are not above a thousand. There are several other tribes of Indians, wiiose countries are situated upon the waters of the north- east branch of the Columl)ia l{iver ; but they resemble one another so uearlj' in their customs, morals, man- ners, and mode of living, tliat it is uimeeessary to go into a particular description of each sejiarately. I will mention the names, locations, and numbers of some of the pripr-ipal trilies. North of the Cootanies arc the Carriers, whose number is estimated to be foiu- thousand ; and .south of these are the Lake Indians, so named from their ])lace of residence, which is about the Arrow Lakes. The}' arc about five hundred in number. At the south, and about Colville, are the Kettle-Falls Indians. Their number is live hundred and sixty. West of these are the Sinpauelish, one thousand in number ; and below tlicse are the Shoo- shajis, havinga population of tiveluindred and seventy- five. At the west and north-west, next in order, are the Okaiiagans, numbering one thousand and fifty. To the north and west are several tribes, about whom I obtained no definite information. Between ( )kaiia- gan and the Long Kapids are detachnients of Indians, who appear poor, and deficient in tliat manly and active sjiirit which cliaraeterises the tribes above named. South of the Long Kajiids, and to the con- fiuenee of Lewis Kivei with tlie (,'olumbia, are the Yookoonians, a more aevive pcojile, iiumlicring about seven hundred. The whole number of the above- named Indians is thirty-two thousand five hundred and eighty-five. Tiiis is jirolialily a low estimate, and in the number are not included tlie Fall and La Dalles Indians, and many other numerous tribes residing at the north and south of the falls of the Columi)ia, whose mniiber« 1 could not with certainty ascertain. We might ir.ore thiii double this number, and jiro- bably stili come bekiw the population of the upper country. The Indians to whom our horses were intrusted, came in safely, ;is I exincted. After resting on the sabbath, we re.iewed, on ]Monday the (Itli, our voyage down the river, having Fort Vancouver for our next destination. We exchanged the bateau for a hirge ♦58 PARKER'S JOURNEY ^■"4ui : i .1 m 'liij: canoe, retaining the men wlio attended me from Okanagan. Assisted by tlieliigh water, we made rapid progress until three in the afternoon, when a strong head-wind compelled us to take to the land for the remainder of the day, having gone seventy-flve miles. The Indians, as usual, came to us in their friendly manner, offering us salmon, and asking tol)acco, which they esteem more highly than cither gold or silver. They have been accustomed to traffic in this commo- ditj% until they expect it of every passing traveller. Tlie morning of the 7th was more calm, and we got under way at an early hour ; but with the rising day the wind again increased to such a degree that we were obliged to suspend our voyage. After a stremious endeavour to effect a landing on tlie nortii, we were at length driven across to the opposite shore ; and here, for the first time in all my travels, I fomid it im- possible to pitch my tent, such being the strength of tlie wind that it would have been carried away. The canoe was drawn upon the shore, and, wrapjiing my- self in my blankets and buffalo robes, I laid me down in safety by its side. ^Yc had here, as at all our other landing-places, the usual friendly visit from the neigh- bouring Indians. On the following day we were able to resume our journey, and passed the rapids, which, in tlie tempest of 3X'sterda}', looked so forbidding. A little caution on tlie part of my experienced Frenchmen, in regard to the numerous islands and eddies, enabled us to effect the passage in perfect safety. In a short time we approached the falls of the Columbia, which, in low water, are twenty feet in perpendicular height, and are followed by raging rapids IjcIow, but now, in the high freshet season, these are passable by the de- scending boats when not heavy laden. IloushcaTi, mj- steersman, proposed to run them, and while I was re- volving in my mind the chances of safety, and thouglit of going on shore, we were between lireakcrs on the right and on tlie left, and onward we must go, let tlie consequences be what they would. We kept near the middle of the river, which was free from breakers, though not from high surges. !Soon, Avith amazing velocity, avc went over the cataract of tlie mighty waters, and made our way into a bay at the head of the first ])ortage of the La Dalles. The accumulation of water from those stupendous mountains above, was so great that the falls were almost lost in the deptli. Such were the eddies and the surging of the water among the rocky islands in the naiTow broken channel of the La Dalles, that we had to make three portages. Our canoe was so large, that twenty Indians were not too many to carry it safely. Tiieir mode of carrying is to invert it upon their heads and shoulders, and then it is with difflcnlty and danger that they pass the steep and rocky ravines. When we came to the last portage, the Indiuns were not willing to take hold again unless we would pay them in powder and ludls ; and although their demands were reasonable, yet our stores were not adequate to meet them, and tluy would not perform the labour without the required article. I engaged Sopelay and another influential chief to in- duce their men to perform the labour of making tliis last portage, and promised that I would send them their demand from l\)rt Vancouver. For tlieir securitj' I M'ould also give them ii UilkiiKj paper. TlR'y stated to their jieople my proposal, and were about to suc- ceed, when Tilki, tlie first chief, Avho had become fa- miliar with an American trader, laughed at their credulity. Sopelay, however, stateil to tlie peo])le, that he had seen me at the fort, and that he heanl uie teach the Indians good things, and did not believe I would deceive them. Ho ]irevailed, and the men Bet to the work; and in four hours from passing t':.; falls, we were beyond the r.ging waters, wli'.o we made our morning repast upon very fine '■uinion. Our passage during the; rcmaiiuf"i of the day was pleasant: we passed Cape I'-.in without difficulty, and lauded for the night i,»velve miles above the cas- cades. In this high state of the water, very few of the | trees of the submerged forest were to be seen. On the morning of the 9th we passed the cascades, by hiring Indians to cordelle the canoe down them, and make one short portage, over a distance of two miles, to the great basin, or riither the great whirlpool, below. This laliour is attended witli some danger, and cases, though not numerous, have occurred of tlie loss of lives and property. As I walked along the shores and over precipices, I saw the wrecks of several canoes and bateaux strewed upon the rocks. We em- barked ujion the great basin, at the lower part of which we passed into a rapid, wliere the main current took a diagonal course, from the north towards the south shore. On both sides of this current there were heavy breakers, and as the only course of safety we took the middle. We had not jiroceedcd far before a large whirlpool, M-ith a deep devouring vortex, formed almost directly before us, and as we were going forward very swiftly, it seemed im])ossible to avoid its circling cur- rent. I said to my steersman, " Bear a little to the right." " Oh, don't speak here," was his reply. As we approached the vortex, it filled after the manner of smaller eddies, and we soon felt the influence of its waters rolling out from the centre, and all our strength was rccjuirod to resist them, lest we should be tlirown upon tlie lireakcrs. We passeil with the rapidity of the wind, and in a short time were upon the smooth surface of the tide waters below. The sensations ex- cited in descending these cascades, are of that peculiar character which are best understood by experience. The sensation of fear is no sooner awakened than it subsides before the power and magnificence of the rolling surges, the circling vortices, and the roaring breakers. Let those whose dormant energies, either of body or mind, need arousing, trj the navigation of the Cohnnbia, and their powers will be invigorated for almost any future enterprise. Such is the fasci- nating power, I had almost said magic, of these scenes tliat those who are accustomed to tlie employmen'. thongli far away from home and kindred, become at- tached to it, and are reluctant to abandon it for any other. Each time the scenery of these interesting cascades is beheld, new wonders unfold themselves. Niagara itself, if we except its unbroken fall of one hundred and fifty feet, cannot hear a comiiarison with the grandeur of nature's works here. Nor are these things created merely to draw out momentary admiration. Science, in very many of its deiiartments, may hero find subjects for investigation, WJiile the ornitliologist listens to the songsters of tlie forest, and in these enchanting solitudes follows them with his eye as they dart from bough to bougli, his attention is arrested by the noble and majestic white-headed eagle, as he takes his favourite perch upon the loftiest point of some leafless tree, or as ho darts thence U])on his prey ; or his attention may be arrested l)y the daring fisli-hawk, in his rapid de- scent upon the finny tribe. An amusing occurrence took place in my view. A fish-hawk seized upon a fish of such magnitude, that the contest for a long time was doubtful, as the splashing water indicated, which should excliange its native element. Tlie resistance was so great, that, finally, a disengagement was deemed the best policy on botli sides. Here, also, the 'lotanist, while he forbears to ascend the lofty mount. lins, which for liini jjrcsent an aspect of too much areariness, may retire into the narrow receding v.ili'vs, or wind his way over sunny hills, in search -~^ BEYOND THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 69 T ter, very few of the to be seen, [issed the cascades, canoe down them, a distance of two he great, whirlpool, cith some danger, have occurred of I walked along the i wrecks of several ic rocks. We em- ower part of which main current took owards the south i t there were heavy ; safety we took the ar before a large tex, formed almost oing forward very (1 its circling cur- L'ur a little to the as his reply. As [tor the manner of e influence of its id all our strength should be thrown h the rapidity of upon the smooth lie sensations ex- •e of that peculiar : >d by experience, i iwakened than it \ gniflcencc of the j and the roaring energies, either I the navigation of II be invigorated ucli is the fasci- ', of these scenes the eniploymen' drcd, become at- )andon it for any these interesting ifold themselves, •oken fall of one comparison with ely to draw out very many of its 'or investigation, he songsters of solitudes follows bough to bough, lie and majestic favourite i)ereh ss tree, or as he attention may in his rapid de- sing occurrence { seized upon ii it for a long time ndicated, which Tile resistance lent was deemed ■l)cars to ascend •esont an aspect iito the narrow : sunnj' hills, in ast new species, and to add to he stupendous bin), may also ig more minute s ar(( scattered and cornelian. inienso masses of amygdaloid, the columnar basalt, and the moun- tains shooting up their dentl;'ulated forms and needle points. His attention will be drawn to the examination of the lava, breccia, and ti'achyte, and the many inte- resting petrifactions scattered every where around. As we passed out of the mountain country about the cascades, we found the wide valley below so inun- dated as to present the api)earance of an inland sea. I arrived safel}' at the fort, found my friends well, and exclianged kind congratulations. Sabbath, June 1 2tb. — 1 preached twice to the people of tlie fort. In the evening mo had a third service, in which, as heretofore, an opportunity was given to those present to propose questions on any subject of religion about which they wished information. I was particuhiily gratitied to find, that during my absence put)lic worship had been maintained, anu that an effort had been made to bring the French Canadians to attend upon religious instruction. They are as- sembled twice on the sabbath, and a portion of scrip- ture and a sermon in French, are read to them by l)r !M'Laughlin. 1 was favoured with an opportunity to send to Sope- lay the promised powder and balls by Captain Black, ii gentleman of the company, who was to leave Van- couver for his station north of Fort Okanagan in a few days. On the 14th we took a water excursion down the Columbia, in the steam-boat Beaver, Captain Home, to the confluence of the western branch of the Mult- nomah, up this river into the Willamette, and then into the middle branch of tlic Multnomah, and through it into tlie Columbia, and back to the fort. All the low lands were overflowed witli the annual freshet, and presented the appearance of an immense bay, ex- tending far into the country. The day was pleasant .and our company cheerful. The novelty of a steam- boat on the Columbia awakened a train of prospective reflections upon the probable changes which would take place in these remote regions in a very few years. It was wholly an uiithought-of thing, when I first con- templated this enterprise, that I should find here this forerunner of commerce and l)iisiness. The animation which prevailed on board was often suspended, wbile we converse.l of coming days, when, with civilised men. all the rapid im])rovements in the arts of life siioiild be introduced into this new world, and when cities and villages sliould spring up on the west, as tiiey are sitringing up on the east of the great moun- tains, and a new empire be added to the kingdoms of the earth. The Columbia is the only river of magnitude in the Oregon territory, and is navigable for sliips only one hundred and thirty miles, to the cascades : it is the oidy stream which attbrds a harbour for large ships on the coast, from California to tiie 49th degree of north lati- tude. For bateaux and other light craft, the Columbia .and its branches are navigable a tliousand miles. The internal navigation might be nnich improved by canals around the rapids an was freriuently lighted, the piiies inisscd round, ami the destiiilcu of the iintion delibcrntcil upon. GENERAL REMARK.«i.-ORMTIIOLOGY. IIavixo explored the most important parts of this territory, and gained all the information within my reach, as to the several objects iiroposcd in my in- structions from the Board of Foreign Missions— and esjieeially h.aving ascertained to my entire siitisfac- tion the two most prominent facts, namely, the entire practicatiility of penetrating with safety to any and every portion of the vast interior, and the disposition of the natives in regard to my mission among ihem — it remained that the most feasible and exiieditimis mode of returning should next be thonght of. I could expect to acquire but little additional knowledge in traversing the route to rendezvous ; and the neces- sary delay of several months, it seemed, could be avoided by a return by water. The Hudson's Hay Conqiany were about to send a ship to tlie .Sandnicb Islands, in whicii I was kindly oflered a gratuitous passage. On the other hand, my friendsbi]) with gentlemen of this establishment, my regard for the spiritual welfare of the I)eniglited men for whose good I had for many a weary day pin'sued my oliject, over mountains and rivers, hills and valleys, through all the vicissitudes of climate and weather ; and esiiecially a desire to see, in this whitened field, the returning labourers I expected, and to be aide to give them per- sonally, instoad of by letter, the residt of my collected War was declare 1 against neighbouring tribes ; the deadly toma- hawk was lifted, and not buried until it was red with the blood of the savage; the bounding deer was hunted, killed, and his .intlers ornamented tlie wigwam of the red man ; the scalps of the Indian's enemies hung drying in the smoke of his lodge, and ho was happy. Now, alas ! whore is he ?— gone— gatheicd to his fathers and to his happy hunting-grounds— his place knows hlin no more. The spot where once stood the thickly peopled village, the smoke curling and wreathing above the closely packed lodges, the lively children playing in the fi out, and their indolent parents lounging on their nuits, is now only indicated by a heap of undis- tinguisliablo ruins. The depojailation has been truly Vearful. A gentleman told me, that only four years ago, as lie wandered near what had formerly been a thickly jicoplcd village, ho counted no less than sixteen dead, men and women, lying unburicd and festering i.i the sun in front of their habitations. Within the houses all were sick ; not one had escaped the contagion ; upwards of a luuidivd individuals, men, women, and children, were writhing in agony on the Moors of the houses, with no one to render them any assistance. Some were in the dying struggle, and clenching with the c of death their disease-worn companions, shrieked imd howled in the last sharp agony. Probably there clocs not now exist one. w here, five years ago, there were a hundred ImMans ; and, in sailing up the river, from the cape to the cascades, tin, only evidence of the existence of the Indian is an oi'casional miserable wigwam, with a few wretched, half-starved occupants. In some other places, they are rather more numerous ; but the thoughtful observer cannot avoid perceiving that, in a very few years, the race must, in the nature of things, become extinct; and the time is probably not far distant, when the little trinkets and toys of this people will be picked up by the curious, and valued as mementoes of a nation jiassed away for ever from the face of the earth. 'J'lio asiiect of things is very melancholy. It seems a.s if the flat of the Creator had gone forth, that these poor denizens of the forest and the stream should go hence and be seen of men no more. In former years, when the Indians were numerous, long after the cstablisliment of this fort, it was not safe for the white men attached to it to venture beyond the protection of its guns with- out being fully armed. Such was the jealousy of the natives to- wards them, that various deep-laid schemes were iiiactiscd to obtain jiossessiim of the post and massacre all w hoiii it had har- boured. Now, however, they are as submissive as children. 8omo have even entered into tho service of the whites, and when once the natural and persevering imlolence of tho man is worn oil', hu will work well and make himself useful. About two hundred miles southward, tho Indians are said to bo in a mucii more flourishing condition, and their hostility to tho white people to be most deadly. They believe that wc brought with us the fatal fever which has ravaged this portion of tho country; and the consequence is, that they kill without luerey every white man who trusts himself amongst them. f^ PARKER'S JOURNEY 9lfm information, as a guide to them in tlieir incipient labours — all this held me riveted to the spot, and kept me undecided as to uiy course. At li-njrtli, after con- sultation with my most judicious friends, 1 resolved to take passage in the barque Colunihia for Uahu, in the ho])e that a speedy opportunity would present itself for my return to the United States. In taking leave of this comitry and tlie work in ■which I have so long time been engaged, a train of re- flections crowd ujjon my i.iiiid. 'J'lie future condition of this noble race of men is a subject of interesting in(iuiry to many others as well as myself. Whetlier the Indians are to pass away before the increasing power and numbers of white men, or whether, enlight- ened and imjjroved by the philanthropy of the latter, they sliall arise in the scale of human existence, is a question which, at the present time, is attracting at- tention and inviting investigation. I entered on the ■work of exploring this field with no preconceived bias; and, from critical and pei'sonal observation, I hesitate not to say, that I can see no reason existing in the nature of things, which necessarily dooms the race to annihilation on the one hand, or on the other, necessarily makes them objects of apprehension, as the future liordes who shall, in coming time, like the northern barl)arians of Uoman days, be reserved as the scourge of an overgrown and decaying republic. If to do good be an object worth}' of humanity or re- ligion, I see not why a ctmsistent and persevering attempt to raise a race of freemen from their depres- sion, and to i)lace them in the rank of intelligent beings, should not be an undertaking fraught with as much promise and encouragement as it was in earlier daj's to raise our ancestors to their present elevation. In favour of this opinion, we have the docility of the Indians in every thing pertaining to their improvement, the sprightliness of their youth and children, and the aniiableness of their native tempers and dispositions. I take nothing of this upon testimony. In ail my hi- tercourse witli then), I saw, with only one exception, no angry or malevolent passions in exercise in their little communities. AVhy shall any h)ok down upon the Indian with contempt, doom his race to annihi- lation, and judge of the whole by those who have learned the vices of white men, and had those vices stinndated and strengthened by the cupidity of those who liave excited them? Why shall not a redeem- ing inrtuenee be exerted to bring the Indians to an elevated condition, to which their independent and ambitious dispositions aspire, and for wliich, as a part of the family of man, God unquestionably designed them?* * [Mr I'arlvcr's repeated notices of the willingness of certain tribes of 1 ntliiins to be instructed in the linowIedKe of Christianity, though liable to the suspieion of being exaggerated, seem to agree with the account given by Mr Townaend in different parts of bis narrative. That gentleman describes the N'ez I'crees, C'lic- nodks, and Kayuscs, as possessing a most amiable spirit of sincere piety, and their toleration of the creed and religious observances of thewhito men might well teachulesson to civilisation. " After supper was concUidod," says Sir Townscnd, " we sat down on a butt'alo robe at the entrance of the lodge, to see the Indians at their devotions. The whole thirteen were soon collected at the call of one whom they had chosen for tlieir chief, and seated with sober sedate co\mtcnunces around a large fire. After remaining in perfect silence for perhaps lif teen minutes, the chief conunenced an harangue in a solemn and luipressive tone, reminding tbeniof the object for which they were thus assembled, that of worship, ping the ' Circat Spirit who made the light and the darkness, the tire and the water,' and assured them that if the., oll'ercd u|i their prayers to him with but ' one tongue," they would certainly bo accepted, lie then rosc^ from bis sipiatting position to his knees, and bis example was followed by nil thcothers. In this situation be commenced a prayer, consisting of short senlenees, utterek^ countries, jjrobiiblv e gniin and fruit o )VL'S are ni so com Rut tliey .ii-o sufti- thologist one year's ion is particularly :his, as in otiicr de- ls until lately beeiii l)erson haviuf; been a and species, or to MrJ. K. Townscr.il, Id, and will pive toj and to whom I ami ng summary. [ race are mifrriitor3-, < ic year; there are durintr the \hole estie white-healed ks, two species of ids of ravens and rrows, and two or II partridge of the )Use of the IJocky species of the dip- the latter are very liat of descending • running streams, 1, remaining under | 'ing which time it i ' bottom, with as [ in as if upon dry | md the robin con- s of the latter arc er. . lumber of swans, 5 Iready made men Jad bont to Iiis breast, ;, in wlikh the wliole k simple expression of ttereil. It resembled Mieing in a low tone, lid beautifully modu- ?d hands of the woi'- ■ast, and their bodies le music. The cliiof which was echoed ii- and the same routine occupied perhaps an dcd, after wliiih each ired in the daiknoss 1 think I never was he liunible, subdued, 3eings who were call- Mr sins, and continue 1 heartfelt sincerity truly aft'ecting, and Dod missionary, Sfr with which hooblig- was selected in tho men, as well as tho e Indians, attended. lo which 3Ir J.oe is owed by a brief but at Kentleninn. Tho and the Indians sat t one of them could rthelcss maintained ? when tho preacher itli a view of paying h their own notions worship might have ship in the Itoclcy arance of a herd of liaps never preached the whole scene— it ing of the salutary tion of these water-fowl. The black cormorant is com- mon upon the river, and there are other species of the same genus, seen about the shores of the cape, which do not asci lul the river.^. The loon, or great luirthern diver, is \iry iilentiful in this river. (JuUs, terns, auks, and petrels, in great numbers, visit this river to seek shelter from the violent storms which agitate the ocean during the winter. The s;>ring, with rising vegetation and opening flowers, brings its hosts of lovely feathered tribes, which remain for ditl'erent periods of time — man}- of them only a few weeks — and then retire to other parts for niditication. There are, however, great numbers that remain through the summer, and their delightful songs adil to the charms of the fine mornings in April and ^Ia3'. Among these are hundreds of warblers, wrens, titmice, and nuthatelies. Of the warblers there are eleven species, six of which are new. the other five are common in the States. Several of the siiecies are but transient visiters, but the most of them remain through the season. Of the wrens there are six species ; three of the titmice ; and two of the nuthatches. And in the tram follow the thrushes, of which there are seven species, two of which are new ; the fly-catchers, numbering eight species, three of which are new ; and thirteen species of the finches or sparrows, three of which iire new. These are a large and musical band, among which are several of the finest songsters known in the world. The Wilson's thrush is pre-eminent in this respect, though it hardly exce - a new species of bullflnch, of the richest and most delicate plumage, which visits this section of countrj' in the spring. If these latter were domesticated, they would form a valuable addition to any aviary. There are eight species of woodpeckers, four of which are new ; and of the swallow tribe there are five species, one of which, already described, is new, and the most beautiful of the family. I pass over many genera and species of the difl'erent birds of this region, its it is not my design to attempt a history of them, but merely to give a passing sketch, from which some idea may be formed of the ornitho- logical treasures of this interesting country. SANDAVICII ISLANDS.-DESCHIPTION OF OAIIU.— MISSIONARY SUCCESS. On the 18th of June, according to previous arrange- ments, 1 took passage in the steam-boat Beaver, for Fort George, to join the barque Columbia for the Sandwich Islands. We had a good passage down the river, and anchored for the night a little above Tongue Point ; and the next day we arrived at the fort. I went on shore on the 20th, and in an excursion along the shores below, I found some very large petrified bivalve shells, embedded in calcareous sandstone of the tertiary formation. They are very perfect, and have all the lustre of living shells; the largest which I have as siiecimens measure longitudinally four inches and a half from the hinge, and five inches transversely, being beautifully scalloped. For a considerable dis- tance around the jilace where these shells are f of Honolulu, and for devotion, near a beautiful cool grove of oliia and kukui- trees,* on an eminence com- manding a view of the valley below. Near this dwell- ing, she caused a house to be built for the accommo- dation of the missionaries, wlien they should wish for rest, and to be refreshed with the invigorating air of the mountains. The evidences of her Christian cha- racter were convincing. Her piety was active. She travelled through all the islands, from lime to time, to see that the people attended the means of religious instruction, and the schools ; anil to recommend tlie religion of the Bible to all classes of her subjects. Her example, as well as her autliority, was powerfnl in suppressing intemperance, and the many vices which threatened the ruin of her country. Her influence was felt not only by her own people, but also by fo- i^igners who visited these islands. ' ore far gone .o decay, but the cherished memory of her ,>'ety and philanthropy was not lost. Tlie place presenied a very pleasing view of the high and preci- pitous ..lountains around on ever\' side; excepting on the •outh side, which is open to the cooling breezes of ' he ocean. The many cascades around iipon the mountain sides added to the beauty of the scenery. Among the variety of shrubbery, Ave found the coffee- tree, with its fruit in various stages of maturity ; tlio arrow-root, and the brake fern, growing in many in- stances to tlie height of twenty feet. From a bulb, near the root, is taken what the natives call hapuu, a silky down, which mak(!S excellent beds and cushions. Honolulu is situated on the south side of the island, on a bay of the same name, and is the capital and busi- ness place of all the islands. The land around the vil- lage is a dry, barren plain, excepting on the north-west, wliere it is moist, and cultivated with taro patches, with some cocoa-nut trees interspersed. The buildings generally are in the native style, thatched ; many are built with (loba walls, after tlic Spanish manner on the coast of INIexico and IYtu, that is, witli large sun-burnt bricks, made about two feet long, eighteen inches wide, and ten inches thick. 1'lie clay is mixed witli cut straw to strengthen them, after the fashion of the ancient Egyptians. Their enclosures are built in the same style. There rre several good l)uildings! made of rock coral, in English st^yle, some of which are sjiacious and well finished. Tlie village contains about nine thou- sand inhabitants, three hundred of whom iU'e English and Americans. ]Most of the commercial business is carried on by foreigners, and is of large amount, being increased by the resort of whale-ships, in the spring and autumn, for repairs and fresh supplies, ])articu- larly vegetables; it is the phiee at which all other shipping touch Aviiich navigate this ocean from Euroite and America in the Chinese and East India tra(le. This place is ('onstantly growing in importance, and must continue to do so from its local advantages. I'our miles south-east of Honolulu is the pleasant na- tive viUage of AVaititi, on the bay of the same name. It contains five or six hundred inhabitants, and is situ- ated in a beautiful grove of cocoa-nut trees, which adds very much to its ajjpearance and comfort. This place, if tiie cultivation were jiroiiortioncd to the richness of the soil, might be made one of the most delightful .spots in the island. About two miles east of this village are the remains of an old heathen temple, in which human sacrifices were ofl'ereil ; a part of the walls of the enclosure is still standing. Various methods Avere enqjloycd to obtain victims ; one of which was to lay a taboo on all the jjcople in the whole region around, that no one, for a certain period of time, should go out of their dwell- ings, or make any fire in them, upon pain of death. If any violated the taboo, they Avere apprehended and sacrificed to the idols. If they Avere unsuccessful in obtaining victims in this Avay, they Avould send out * Thokiikui-troe bearM ii nut as Inrge as ii black wiiliiut, ii 8triiig nf \vliiili is used for t:unllos, and liciieu the tree iseuUud thucaniUC' Inc. DEYOND THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 73 111 eminence coni- Ncar tliis dwell- 1 or tlie accommo-l y should wish for I ivisxoi-ating air of I er Christian cha- f ■was active. She Dm time to time, leans of religious recommend the ler subjects. Her was powerful in lany vices which Her influence but also by fo- ot, the buildings •ished memory of lost. The place W high and preci- ™ le ; excepting on cooling breezes around upon the i' of the scenery, found the eoffee- if maturity ; tlie •ing in many in- :. From a bulb, tives call hnpuu, eds and cushions, idc of the island, capital and busi- d around the vil- n the north-west, th taro patches, d. The buildings died : many are h manner on the 1 large sun-burnt teen inclies wide, ■d Avitli cut straw 1 of the ancient lilt in the same )g.s made of rock are sjiacious aning of considerable magnitude. Tiie largest, Koanahunianui, is on the east side, and runs parallel with the ocean ; the highest part is 4000 feet above the level of the sea. This range of mountains is without many cones, is very pointed, and has several paries. At the Great Pari, the upper end of Nuuaiiu, the main chain turns to tlie west, and terminates towards V/aialua. Tiie north side of the range, west of the Pari, is very precipitous, having many spurs projecting to the north, including deep pit like ravines. The other range, on the Avest side of the island, is called Kaala, running north and south, separating AVaianae on the west, from the valley of Eva on the east. The highest point is .'iSoO feet above the sea. There are many conical hills of diflTerent magnitudes in various parts of the island, which evidently were ancient craters ; one, six miles south-east of Honolulu, called Diamond Hill; and another, a short distance north of Honolulu, called Fort Hill. They are open and concaA'C at the top, Avitli high grooved ridges doAvn the sides, which appear to liaAO boon formed by streams of lava, and by the action of Avater, cutting ravines. There is abundance of lava and other vol- canic prodi'ctions about these hills. The salt lake, four miles Avest of Honolulu, bears a resemblance to the crater of a volcano. It is a great curiosity, as Avcll as source of trade. It undoubtedly has a connexion with the ocean, near Avhich it is situ- ated, by some subterraneous passage. Its depth is unknoAvn, being nearly filled Avith excellent crystallised salt. The quantity Avhich it contains is immense, and it is taken out in large quantities for sale. The lake has the appearance of being coA'cred Avith ice, a little sunken beloAv the surface of the Avater. This island, and all the others in the Pacific Avhicli I saw, or concerning Avliich I obtained information, are volcanic and coraline to a great extent. Some have supposed that these islands liaA'ebeen thrown up in the first place by internal fires, and then enlarged by coraline additions. There is too much argillaceous soil to faA'our this lieliof ; and, to say the least, the sup- position is Avithout the least evidence, more than Avliat theorising men invent. IMuch of the soil is formed by disintegrated and decomposed hiA-a. The reefs lying ott' from the shores, and in some places immediately upon them, are coral. The coraliiies arc divided into ancient and modern, the latter still increasing. Be- tween these formations is a volcanic deposit. The ancient coralines are found in many places forming the surface of the plains, elevated some six or eight feet aboAC the present level of the sea. As the polypi, Avhich form coral, never Avork above Avater, these islands must either have been elevated hy some sub- terranean or submarine power, or the ocean is sub- siding ; and as this recession of the ocean is seen in various parts of the Avorld, in nearly if not the same degree, is it not probable that the Avaters of the ocean are gradually diminishing? Of the modern coral, there are many grades, from the rock to the most beautiful kinds resoinbling trees and plants, and of various colours. Tlie volcanic formations do not differ materially from those in the Oregon territory. Cellular lava is very common, often bordering upon pumice, and of various colours — brick-red, ash-coloured, orange- yellow, and green. No primitive rocks are found, nor any silicious sand — the sand upon the shores being formed of either disintegrated lava, scoria, or coral. The Sandwich Islands possess a great variety of vegetable productions, of Avhicli, lioAvever, I cannot attempt a minute emuneration. Among the most valuable and interesting are — the cocoa-nut tree, bread- fruit, coa-treo, Avliich furnishes lumber nearly equal to mahogany ; hybiscus, candle-nut tree, mulberry, fig- tree, cotton-tree of very fine quality; coffee-tree, grape vines, oranges, lonions, limes, pine-apjiles, melons of If 74 PARKER'S JOURNEY i «' r'!,: superior quality, squashes, sufiar-canc, arrow-root; indijro i)laiit, whi li ^tows fiiitly without care; the guava, a fruit rt'seuiljling maudrakus, hut not so ngreeal)li; to tlie taste of tliose unaccustomed to it ; taro, sweet and conunou potatoes, hanana, a great variety of ferns ; vast nunihers of most hcautiful flowering phmts, sueli as tlie orien* '1 hlac, eiglit difle- rent species of mimosa, tiie i)ride of Barbadoes, several varieties of convolvulus and niirabilis, passi- flora or passion-flower, roses, Spanish ])ink, Mexican pea, and many others ; also garden vegetables of various sorts. The animals of these islands, when discovered by Captain Cook, were very few ; the most of thpse now found upon tlieni have been introduced since. There are now tlie horse, the mule, neat cattle, goats, hogs, dogs, fowls, a few birds, but among the few, tlie erow ami raven, which are eonnnon in almost all parts of the world, have not found their way iiere. There are hut very few reptiles — no snakes ; but the green lizard is very common, and was worshijjped in the days of the idolatry of the islanders. Such is the influence of superstition upon the human mind, that they can hardly dismiss all feelings of reverence for this insig- nificant reptile. If one comes into their dwellings, they choose to let it take its own dcparti'"e rather than to molest it. The scorpion and centi xm have, ■witiiin a very few years, found their way here by vessels. The musquito was not known here imtil recently, and now they are numerous and very annoy- ing. The government of these islands is ahsolute and hereditary, heing administered hy the king, queen, and chiefs, whose will is the supreme law; the common people are a nation of slaves. The lands belong to the government, and are leased to the people at liigli rents, and even then the people have no security that they shall enjoy th"^ fruits of tiieir labour ; for, hesides the stipulated rents, the government make any addi- tional demands they please, and tlie people are taught to obey without complaining. The persons of the chiefs are remarkable for their extraordinary si/e, towering quite ahove the height of the common people, and, in point of corpulency, preserving corresponding dimensions. The king secures his house and person by lifeguards. Very frequently, on a Saturday morn- ing, the queen-regent, attended by her train and ser- vants, in equestrian style, visits her garden some two miles from Honolulu. Their appeavance is fine, and they are well skilled in horsemanship, ller ordinary mode of riding in the street is in a small, low- wheeled carriage, drawn by twenty servants. The Sandwich Islanders, or kanakas, as the common people are called, have less activity of body and mind than the Indians of our continent, and yet a phrenologist would say that their intellectual organs are well develoi)ed. In their present political condition, they cannot be ex- pected to he otherwise than indolent and improvident. In their dress, mode of living, and habitations gene- rally, they have made but little advance upon their days of heathenism ; some in the interior, especially', wearing little more clothing than their maro, and hav- ing their dwellings in holes and eaverii , in the rocks. This, however, is not true of all ; for the chiefs, and some of the people, have good houses, dress in good fashion, and live comfortably. Theking, queen-regent, and chiefs, gave a tea-party, to which, with afewotliers, I had the honour to be invited. They were dressed richly and in good taste ; their table was splendidly arrayed with silver plate and china; the entertain- ment was both judiciously and tastefully arranged and prepared, and all the etiquette ind ceremony of such occasions was observed. The conversation was cheerful and intelligent, without frivolity, and nothing occurred embarrassing to any one. At a suitable early hour we were invited into a saloon well furnished, where, after a performance of music, both vocal and instrumental, the queen proposed that prui/er should conclude our agreeable visit ; which was done, and tlic company retired. An entertainment, however, is sometimes transaeti i in a diflirent: style hy some of our cfmntrymen iiml other foreign^ rs in tliese islaiuls. A dog-feast, as it is there called, was given hy foreign resident gentlemen, on the aotii of Sei)teml)er, at the country seat of tW American consul, in lionoiir of the ortieersof tiie Aiiu- rican sciuadnm, the I'eacoek and Enterprise, then in the liarbour of Honoluhi. I extract from the account published in the Sandwich Island (iazette at the tinu. "Food in native style was bountifully served up— hahtd (Uhj was among the dishes, and it was not to lie despised. Songs, toasts, cheers, lunnpers, and speeclus, all came in their turn. Among the toasts were 'Com- modore our commodore.' Commodore's rejtly, ' May you all live a thousand years, and may we always meet here.' Doctor of the United States sliip Peacock, ' Populaticm and prosperity to tlie Sandwich Islands, and an end to all oppressive taboos.' The party separated, teeminu with good sjiirits." The populatii'' f these islands has been decreasing ever since an ui intance has been made witii them. Captain Cook estimated the people at 400,000. The present population is about one hundred and ten tliou- sand. A variety of causes have conspired to bring abcmt this declension, and yet no one so prominent above the rest as wholly to satisfy inquiry. It is ac- knowledged by all observers, and it has Itecome evi- dent to the government itself, that a change of tilings in the internal structure of their national affairs, is necessary to the prosperity of the jieople. During my staj' at Oaliu, the heads of liie nation had frequent meetings to discuss the subject of reform and improve- ment, and to adopt some new mode of administration which will give to the people the jirivileges of freemen, and thereby stimulate them to industry. To ett'eet this, the lands must be distributed among the ])eople, a more equal mode of taxation must be adopted, in- dustry must be encouraged, and progressive prosperity will follow in train. The perpetuity of the independence of this nation, and with it their existence, is very problematical. A disposition to possess these islands has been manifestetl by foreign powers. Whether the paw of the lion, or the talons of the e.agle, shall first m.ake them its prey, or wlicther they shall be mutual checks upon each other, and thus prolong the existence of this feeble state, is not known. The manner in which the king and chiefs are often treated by the officers of foreign nations, and the insults they meet with, would not be borne with patience by a more powerful people. In fair and honourable negotiations, regard is had to mutual rights, but here foreigners assume the style of dictation ; " You shall, and you shall not ;" — and as- sertions are made respecting things existing in the laws and practices of England and America, which neither government would tolerate. Lord Kusrel, the com- mander of the Acteon, a British mai of war, obtained signatures to a certain instrument, by assuring the Ilawaian government, that if they refused any longer to sign it, he would order all the English vessels to leave the harbour, and request all the American shipping to withdraw ; and then bring his armed ship before their ft)rt, batter down the walls, and prostrate their village. The king signed the instrument ; and then he, together with the queen and chiefs, like some other people who feel their feebleness before a mightier nation, had only the poor resort of a public remonstrance. They ac- cordingly sent a rcnionstranee to the King of Clreat Britain, in which they say, that " on account of their urging us so strongly ; on account of said commanders assuring us that their communication was from the king ; and on account of their making preparation to fire ui)on us — therefore, we gave our assent to the writing, without our being willing to give our real approbation ; for we were not i)leased witli it." They feel incompetent to contend with naval strength, and s (lone, nnd tlio UK'S tniiisartti iiiitryinen mnl if-fcast, iis it i, lilt {ft'iUli'iiicn, try seat of tin. rs of tilt' Aim- rprise, tlicii in )in the account tteat the tiim. yf served up— t was not to Ik: !, and sjjceclu s, !ts were 'Com- lodore's reply, may we always ed States sliip tile Sandwicli )os.' The party icen (locreasinK ide witli tliein. 400,000. Tliu 1 and ten tliou- pircd to briiiij So proniinoiit my. It is ac- ts become evi- laiifje of tliiiifis onal aH'airs, is ?. Dnring my I liad frequent 1 and iniprove- adniinistration ges of freemen, ry. To effect >ng tlie i)eople, e adopted, in- sivc prosperity of this nation, jlematical. A een manifesteil of tlie lion, or tiiem its prej-, .'ks upon each of tliis feeble 'Inch the king cers of foreign , woidd not be ul people. In ard is had to ne the style of o*:;" — and a.s- in-finthelaws wiiich neither »rol, tlie coni- war, obtained assuring the sed any longer I'cssels to leave in shipping to p before tlieir .' their village, n he, together er people who tion, had only M. They ac- ting of Great -■ount of their 1 commanders was from the )re]iaration to issent to the give our real thit." They strength, and T IJKYONI) THE llOCKY MOUNTAINS. V therefore submit to indignities from which their feel- ings revolt. Much has been said of the character of the foreign residents, and of the counttracting inliuciice whicli they exert Hi)on the laVionrs of the missionaries in that fiilil. The cause nf the bitterness and opp:)sition to them is well understood; and lest my own ol)MTvations shoiilil seem partial to the missionariis, and invidious towards those who opiuise them, I will embrace all 1 have to say on the siiliject in a (|Uotation from ^Ir J. N. Reynolds' Account of the Voyage of the Poto- mac, an American man of war. //c certainly can- not l)C accuseil of ])artiality to the missionaries who reside on these islands, for his renuirks respecting them are somewhat acrimonious ; but in regard to the foreign residents, he says, " They are generally devoid of all religions jjrinciple, and practis(! the greatest frauds n]M)n the natives in their dealings with them, which tends to corrupt their morals, and to preclude all lio])e of fairness in trade among them. It cannot be denied, and no one can regret it more than we in the Pacific. January 12tli, 1837. — Through the whole of to-day we had strong gales from north-north-east. Our top- sails were close reefed, our maintopsail split. Headed to the east, close on the wind. Very bad sea — not able to take any observation of our latitude or longi- tude. These gales continued on the 13th until idmost every sail was taken in, and we lay to on the wind. The latter jjart of the day was more temperate, and we headed south. By observation tiiken to-day, our lati- tude was 14 degrees 47 minutes south. Sabbath, IStli. — The winds subsided, and the weather was warm. In the morning M'e came near Tetaroa, a small island of the Society group. It is low% rising but little above the level of the sea, thinly inhabited, and covered in jiarts with groves of the cocoa-nut tree. Like all the islands of this ocean which I have seen, it is surrounded with coral reefs, lying at a little distance from the shore, and upon which the sea constantly breaks. In the afternoon we approached the harbour of Papeeti in the island of Tahiti. The pilot came ott'to us, and made an effort to get the ship in, but did not succei'd, the wind being too light, and we had to bear ott'till the morning. On Monday the Ifitli, we got safely into the harbour, where we found the Daniel Webster, Captain Pierson, from Sag harbour, on board of which were the Rev. W. Richards and family, passengers for the United States. We continued in this port four days, during which time I made several excursions about the island, and became acquainted with the English missionaries, of whose successful labours I had of'itn heard and read, the Rev. Messrs Wilson, Pritchard, and Darling, and their families. They appear happy in their work, and devoted to it. The Christian religion is the only re- it f 70 PATIKKR'S JOURNKY ligioii acknowlctlgt'd in tlioso islnnds, and its intliicicf is uiiivLTsally apparent. Idsides jircailiinK dm tlif !Siibl)atli, tliu iiiis8i()uarii.'9 liavu. rt'liKious .survices (ni other ilaj'H of tlie week. At sunrise every nioruiiiK tliey liave a puldie i)rayer meeting. They are duiiii; much l)y means of their scIrkjIs and tlie press; and most of the ])eoplu ean read. Tiie performances of the natives in vocal music pleased nii', tlieir voices beinfi very soft and musical, thouj^li less cultivated than tliosi; of the Sandwich Islanders, whom tiiey resemble in jiersonal ajipcarance, comjilexion, lan- f,'ua),'e, and dress. Their advances in tlie arts and in agriculture are less than miuht have been expected; l)ut, in ii climate where so many fruits vc'j^a'tate spon- taneously, the necessity of cultivation is not so impe- rious. Tiie harbour is not so good as that of Oahu, and less is done l)y way of whartint; or otherwise to facilitate business, or aid in repairinj^ tlie shipping which visit this island. A ^ood puijlic road had i)een commenced, to extend around the island; Imt it is now iiefjlceted, and all the bridges are broken down. Tiie government here is much the same as in the Sandwicii Islands, but in some respects more free and systematised. Their judiciary is well organised, and justice is tolerably well achninistered. Tlieir legis- lative body is composed of tlie (jueeii, governors, chiefs, and two repress, "^i'tives from each district of tlie islands of Taliiti and Eimeo; the laws, when framecl, are canvassed by the peo])Ie, and, if ajjproved, receive the queen's signature. Tlie young queen, I'omare, is of very prepossessing appearance, talented, and has decision of character ; but her views of civilisation are not so enlarged as those of Madam Kinau. The American consul in these islands resides at Papeeti ; ho is a Dutchman, and, as he informed me, a native of Antwerp. His English is hardly intelligible, and his knowledge of the duties of his office has yet to be ac(iuired. The islands of Tahiti and Eimeo, like the other large islands of the raeiflc, are volcanic and coraline. They are mountainous, many of their hills being Iiigli and steep, while the valleys are deep ami narrow, extending far into the interior. To a considerable extent the soil is rich and productive ; oranges and all the other tropical fruits being abundant, and re- quiring little labour or care in cultivation. Such is the indolence of the inhabitants, that they cultivate little besides sugar-cane and a few vegetables. Tliese islands are well supplied with forests, in which are several kinds of wood eipial in value, for cabinet-work, to niaiiogany. Although these islands are in many respects pleasant and inviting, yet they come much short of the paradise which some journalists have described them to be. The heat durhig great part of tlie year is very ojipressive. I should not fail to mention the khid hospitality of the liev. G. Tritehard and family, and an agreeable excursion which I made to Point Venus, the eastern- most port of the island, which is uncommonly de- lightful ; anartan, near the liui', on the other side of the continent. It is ditlieult to imagine how ])Uasant it is to see and s]H'ak a ship after having lieen mouths at sea. A iuw hours aftt r, we saw an- other East Indiaman, but did not speak her. Hy full- ing in with these shij)s, we found that we were so near Africa, as to be in the track of shii)s from Europe to the Cape of (iood Hope. On the same day we buried in the great deep Ben- jamin Hamilton, a si'ainan. It is a solemn transac- tion to commit one of lair fellow-creatures to a watery grave. The colours were raised half-mast, the corpse, with weights at the feet, Avas laid on a plank at the gaugAvay — all hands Avcre gathered around ; and, after some remarks suggested by the occasion, and a ]irayer, the i)lank Avas shoved over tlu^ side of the ship, and the dead sunk to be seen no more. (Jn the 2(1 we made Martin Vass Islands, Avhich are five in ninnber, comjiosed wholly of volcanii' rocks, Avithout any soil ; some of them are cones, shooting up to a height of fern* or five hundred feet. Two are very small md ne'ille-pointed. They are all so pre- cipitous, and the se;i constantly breaking against them, that there is im Iwiding. Their forms are fantastical — one of them liaAing the appearance of a fortiticatiou Avith bastions, alxmt Avhich are needle-i)oints resem- bling men on guard. They are in 20 degrei's 31 i.ii- mites south latitu