IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) '9 , (meaning "COI^- TINUED"), or the symbol V (meaning "END' ). whichever applies. Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: L'exemplaire film6 f ut reproduit grAce d la g6n6rosit6 de: La bibliothdque des Archives publiques du Canada Les images suivantes ont 6t6 reproduites avec le plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition et de la netteti de l'exemplaire film6, et en conformity avec les conditions du contrat de filmage. Les exemplaires originaux dont la couverture en papier est imprimde sont film6s en commengant par le premier plat et en terminant soit par la dernidre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration, soit par le second plat, selon le cas. Tous les autres exemplaires origiriaux sont film^s en commenpant par la premidre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par la dernidre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un des symboles suivants apparaitra sur la dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbole — ^ signifie "A SUIVRE", le symbole V signifie "FIN ". Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent §tre film6s A des taux de reduction diffArents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clichA. il est filmA A partir de I'angle supArieur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de haut en bas. en prenant le nombre d'images nAcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mAthode. 1 2 3 4 5 6 «Sr »-^'», ^ THE WORKS or HUBERT HOWE BAA^CROFT. THE WORKS OF HUBERT HOWE BANCROFT. VOLUME XXVII. HISTORY OF THE NORTHWEST COAST. Vol. I. 1543-1800. SAN FRANCISCO : A. L. BANCROFT & COMPANY, PUBLISHERS. 1884. rntorod acconling to Act of Congress in tljo Year 18^1, l.y HUBERT II. BAXCROFT, lu tliL> Ollico of tho Librarian of Congress, at AVasUingtou. AH ni'jhts Ji'eservtd. PREFACE. PnocEEDiNO northward from tlio more dofined vo- g-ions of Spanish iloniination in America, on reachiir^^ tlio forty-second parallel tlio hitherto steady course of our Pacific States History is interrui)ted, iuid attei" the earliest voyages of discovery we are referi-cd to Canada and France, and later to Anglo -America and England, for the origin of affairs, and for tlu^ extreme north to Kussia. The ownership of this region, always ignoring the rights of the natives, was at first somewhat vague; it was disputed hy the se\'- eral European powers, France, Spain, and England, and after the first two had retired from the' field' England and the United States held a bloodless quarrel over it. The original doctrine in seizing un- known lands was to claim in eveiy direction as far as those lands extended, even if it was quite round tlu; \vorld. Thus Columbus would have it, and Vasco Xuhez de Balboa thought that all the shores washed by the Pacific Ocean M'ere not too great recompense to his king for having so valiant a subject as himself France was disi)osed to claim from Canada west to the Pacific, and back of the English plantations down the valley of the Great River to the Mexican Gulf (V) vi rRKFACE. wliilo tlio Kiigll ;]i colonies on tlio Allaniic nieasnrcd their lands by tlie fronta^v, tluir (K'[){li ln'in^' tlio width of the eoutinont. ]>ut S[)aiii, sending' her navi- gators up the western coast, -was enahb-d hy discovei'v to secure a Ixstter title than could l)e made to rest ou the enthusiasm of a Columhus or a ]>alhoa, or even on the pope's o-enerosity. While (Ireat Britain and the United States relied on explorations and occupa- tion, sometimes calling the former discoveries, and also on enforced or voluntary concessions fiom Spain, France also sent an exploring expedition, followed now and tlun hy a trader; but she advanced no claims after parting with her bi'oad Canadian and Mississi})pi possessions. Obviously events afFecting this area as a wliole, before its division into separate domains, belong to each of the succeeding states; so tliat tlie Jlisfnr// of tlie Xor/hwcd Coast may properly be I'egarded as preliminary to and part of tlie JIisf(it\i/ ii. I was I'ortiuiato <'in>ii;.;'li to sccui'c! coiiii'sof ilic It'tters of Siiiioii l''rascr, and tlio original journals of Frasor and dolin Stuart; ;il.M» copies iVoni the oriufinals of the joiu'iials of dolin AVorlv and W. V. 'I'olniic, tin; private papers of John !McLougidin, and a n\umisci\[)t JL'stori/ (>/' ll/c XoHh- 'irrst Coast by A. ( ". Anderson. 'I'hrouich the kind- iiess of ^Ir John Charles, at tlie time chief of the Hudson's IJay (Jouipany on the Pacific coast, 1 wai^ •jiveii access to th le ai'c]ii\'es o f the fur com [)any <;'atherod at Victoria, and was permitted to make co]>ies of im[»oilunt I'ort journals, notahly thosc^ of Fort Lanj^'ley ain' Fort Simp.-^on. J]ut most im- poi'tnnt of all weio the historical and bioL;Ta[)hical dictations taken iVom the lij>s ol" .several hundred of t!ie pioneers and earliest furdiunters and settlers then living;', by a short-hand reporter wlio accom[)aiiied mo in mv travels, and which wore afterward written out, severaily Iv I jound and us(;( I in tl 10 usual wa 1 'y as material for history. It is scarcely possible to e\- agi>'erate the ini[)ortancc of this inforinatit)n, L;iven as it was by actor.s in the scenes represented, many ol' V, iioiii h.ave sine*.' departed this liie, and all of wlioin \\ ill oon DC Li'one 'i'o no small extent it is earlv hi^ torical know •led. ni al).>oU iteb d 1 v rescued irom oiilivion bli and which if lost no [)o\ver on earth could re})roduce. C'onspic'uous amon<.^ those who thus bi'ar testimony ar<( ^.Irs Harvey, who gave nie a biographical sketch of her father, Chief Factor ^IcLonghlin; John 'I'od, chief for a time of New Caledonia; .Vrchibald Mc- Kinlav, in charue of Fort V\'ailu Walla at tlie time of fC^SSH Vlll l'I!i:i'ACK. flic Wliitinan innrwanro; Ivodoriuk Fiulayson, onro In < li;n'<:((' of ^^lrt Victoi-ia; A. ('. Anderson, road-nuikur, cxploi'ei', and liistorian. T\\o jonrnals of explorers and the narratives of liaxellers enil)ody in a wilderness of useless matter iiiui-li valiiaMe information. These works arc (|nito rare; but even if tliey were at hand, one eould wade tliroujjfh them only at great loss of time. Of these, in this part of my History, I have sunnnarized several scoi'e. J^iitisli and Ameriean government documents are quite full at a later period, when JCngland and tlio United States carried on their hot dis[)utations on tlie subject of occupancy. Tlie freshness of tlie field has rendered it to mo exceedingly fiiscinating; of tlie manner in which my enthusiasm has taken form, and of the use I luue made of my opportunities, the public must judge. co]n-te:n'ts of this yolote. CIIAPTEPt I. INTUODUCTOUY TO .NOUTIX'tViiST (OAST KXPL0RATION-. r\r,r.. Primaiy Sii;nificance— Tho Subject in ita Wi.lost r .pc-Tlic Tronic of MyHtory— Historic anil Mythic Interest— Tho (onjeetural and the ];eal— Origin of the Strait Myth and of the Nurtiiern ^Fystery— "West Cua.st Theoriea— Statu of (Juograpliioal I.kiwIcu-o in ]."i -In tlio South-east— Nortli-oast, Explorations l.y the C.il.ots i.id Cortereal.f, by Aillon, Vcrra/ano, Clomcz, Cartier— In tlio Sniitli-west, by Ballioa, Iv;pinosa, Diivila, Cortes, Alarcon, Tllloa, f'ibriilo— Inland Wander- ings by Cartier, Soto, Cabczn. dc Vaca, Ga/niaii, Xiza.aiid Coronado— lo.'.O to 1000, Frobislier, llibanlt, Menendez, Ilal.i^i— Xow Mexican Kntradas—Urdaneta, Drake, Gali,Cerniunon—H)00 to l(;,-)n,A';/,raino, Onato— Canadian Fnr-liunters and Jesuits— Hudson and 13aflin— Kiui; to 1700, tlio Hudson's Bay Company, Marquette, La Salle, and Padre Kino— 1700 to 17o0, I'liilippinc (iailouns— English Freebooters— Verendryo to the Hooky Mountains— Arctic Discoveries— 17,J0 to ISOO, Hearno and I\Iackenzie— Escalanto iu Utah— Occupation of California — liussiau Discoveries i CHAPTER II. THE NORTHERN MYSTERY AM) IMAGINARY OEOGRAPnY. Ii500-lo95. Field of Conjecture— Mythic Geography— Strait or no Strait-Passage to India— Cabots and Cortcrcals— Ruysch and Schiiner— Amazon I,-:;res— Clavos and Esclavos— .Mai>s of l.^JO-l —Queen of California— Cana- dian lluniois— Xiza's Fictions— Ileal Explorations of lo40-.'5— Cibola, Tiguex, and Quivira— (Honiara's ]]1 under— lluscclli and Muuster— Pvainusioand Honicni— A Choice of Straits— Theories of Mencndez— First Trip through the Strait— Urdaneta-Salvaticrra's Tale— llibault— Tapia— Ortelius' Theatruni—Tolm—Anian— Origin of the Kanic— Ladrillero at the Strait— Meta Incognita— iMartiu Cliaekc— Drake's Pilot— Espejo's La' oand Hiver— Hakluyt— Lok's Map— By the Roanoke to the Pacific— i.i.. Gran Copal— Peter Martyr— Acosta on the Mystery (1«)' 32 X CONTEXTS. CHAPTER III. APOCUYI'IIAL VOVACKS TO THE XORTinVKST. Linit-IGOO. TAGE. Juan do Fuel's Protciiilod Diseovurios — Tho Story to Lok— PrcsuiTip- tioiis figniii.st its Tnitli— Writers on the Subject — Exann'iiation of Evidence, Ifistorical and rioo'.jrapliieal — Doubtless a Pure Fiction — .Mercatov — W'ytUiet — Tlic (ireat Xortlnve.st— Inia^udnurj- Coasts, Riv- ers, and Towns — Conrad Low's llemarkable Map — Closi; of the Cen- turj' — Captain Lancaster — ] ferrera — Vixcaiiio — Ai;uilar"s lUvcr— As- cension — Torcjuemada — Oilate — Lake Copalla— Ziuo;4aba and Queen Cinacacol.jla — Tidan — .John .Smith — ^faldonado's Pretended Voyage tlirongli the Strait of Anian — A Famous Lie 70 CHAPTER IV. THE NORTIIEUX MYSTEllY — CONCLr.SION'. lGlO-1800. Spanish .Tnnti — Carcia do Silva — A XewPIiaso — California once more an Island— Cardona — Dutch iMap — ]>rigi/s' Treatise — Salmeion — ])cl- gado's Voyage — Do L.-iet — "W'innepegs, or 'Mt.ni of the Sea — Xicolet^ Lotcllo and Casanate on XnrUiern (icugrapliy — D'Avity — Aclc— Mel- guor—.Vn JCxact Description— Ogilby — Manpiettc, Hennepin, and La Salle — I'cche — -Teguayo — Pa redes— Danipier — Luyt — La 1 Ion tan— Ivino and flange — Island or Peninsula? — ]\Iaps of Ilacke, T rcylyu, and Harris — Bartholomew do Fonte's Fictitious Letter — \h: L'js'ic and Buachc — Biljliograpliy of a Hoax — -Ilogers — ^'elardc — Xiel — Ugarte's Voyage — California a I'eninsula Again — Shelvockc— Coxe— IX/ulis — Scdelniair— Velaneurt — Ellis — Xew ^louth for tlic ('al'jiailo— Wue- gas — Jellevys — Engel— Carver — ]''nd of the ^lystery 100 CHAPTER V. UTSCOVEUY OF THE NOIITUWEST COAST. I.-JL'J-ITT.'). llartnloni'j Ferrclo — Did not Pass the Forty-second Parnlkd- -Fi'ancis 1 Hake — ilis \'oyage — Diilercnt Versions — The Famous Voyage — Tho World Ihicompassed — Fletcher's Falsehoods — The Limit cannot lie Fixed — Drake Possibly Reached Latitude Forty-three — And v.as tho Discoverer of Oregon— Call's Voyage not Extcniling to Xoi'dieni W.'itcrs — Sebastian Vizcaino andMai'tin Aguilar — PuintSt Ceiirge in 41 4ri', the Xorthcrn Limit — Itevixal of I'lxploration under Carlos III. — l-'xpedition of .Juan Perez to Lalitudo I'ifty-iive— Instruelious and Pcsidts — Xiinies Applied — Intercourse with Indians — Discovery of Xootka — The Whole Coast Discovered — Second Exploration nnder Lruno Ilcceta to the I'oi'ly -ninth Parallel — First Lamliiig in t )rcgon — • Seven Spaniards Ivilled by Indians —Discovery of the CVjlunibia — N'liyage of Jlodega y Cuadra, after parting from Ilcccta, to tho Fifty- eighth Parallel I.'}? CONTEXTS. CHArTER VI. EX1>W)RATI0X OF THE NOKTIIWEST COAST. 177S-I7SS. CaptnvnCook'sExpcaition-T„.tructi,..,s-Di,covcricsnn-mvon.onts of iv.ndrick and (:iv,y-Cruisc of tke Lady Uu.k„^;ton -Ilndof lk,.wells Biary-Tiio t'okunkia Goes toCku.aan.M,osto,.-Kc„dridcint!H.Strait.-Tradin^TripofT-.oa... las and l.untor->!cares in ('l-ina-A Xeu^ Partnerskip-Vova.a. of Conettand ITndson- Plans for a Pernuu.ent lvstakH,skn>ent Mrt- eail H \oyage-Spani..k J^xp.dition under Martinez and Haro-Sci- m-e of the 'Ipkiyenia'-Motives of Capture and ]lek.aso-A Spaui 'k I'ort at Santa Cruz de Xutka-Sei.ure of the 'Xortk AVe.t America' -rakn,g of tke 'Ar^^onaut' and 'Prinee«s Poyal '-Colnetfc versus Martn,ez-Pmcs Sent to San lUa. -Ik-^toration I,v tko ^•k..roy- Jl.o Spaniards Quit Xootka-Ameriean Poliey-Merils of tko Con- roverny-l ko Xews in I'urope-Spaia and l-n.^kuul-l )iph,n,aeN- ar.d In.penduig ^\ ar-Spain Yiekhi-Tko Xoolka Treaty. . . ! '...,_ :.m| Spa CHAPTER ^TII. EXI'LOni.N,; AND COMMKiaTAL EXl'I'.nmoNS. 17!K)-l7!i-\ ni '1 Rcoceupatinn of Xootka ky Klisa-Fidalu^.'s ]:xpk,ration in the JS..rtk-Quin,per iu tke Strait of Fnea-JIis Ckart-Coln, U and d.o ^.Vo,,a„t-Xo lMn-.trade_Kendriek's Seh..u,es-Kxp!,.ral s of I- )l-ihe'San(arloH'~Eli.a'sSurvcyoftkeStrait- Hi,s.\k.,p /1|„. Xootka Coast-Tke Transport 'Aranxa.u'-Malaspina-s l^xpeditiou m the 'Desenkierta- and 'Atrovida'-The (iarrison The P„.(on Iruders-CJray and nasMell-Kendrick-Ingrakan.-Marekands xii COXTEXTS. PAOE. Vi;sit .111(1 !^^ap — ricuiicu'a Essay — Voj'agcs of 1702 — The Trailers— The 'Culuinhia Itudiviva'— Building of the 'Adventure' — IlaswcU's 3g — .Miigec, Cooliilge, Brown, Stewart, Baker, Slicpherd, Cole — jrtuguesc Vessels— xV French Trader — Spanish Explorations — (Jaa- auo in the North — C.aliano ami Valdes on the 'Sutil' and 'Medi- na' — Tlirongli tlio Strait of Fuc:'. — Xavarrete's Sununary — Van- luvcr's Exploring Expedition '2?,0 CHAPTER IX. END OF C0^■TR0VI•.1^SY AN1> EXPLORATION'. 1792-1800. 'l"he Policy of Spain— Delay for Exi)loratiou— The Yieoroy's Ideas — In- stnieti(jns to tlic Commissioner — Cuadni's Investi^j'atifns— ^'anc()^l- ver's ^Mission — The Couimissionera at Nootka — luiglish Ckiims — S^ianish Olicr.s — Agreement to Disagree — Convention of ]~'X) — Dam- ages paid — lievilla Gigcdo's Report — Var.eonver's Second \'oyage — Tiio Garridon — .Saavedra Succeeds Fidalgo — The Trading riee'c of 17'.''l)— Cnadra Succeeded l)y Ahiva — Trip of the 'Aranzaiiu' to Cali- l'i,;nia — Captain John Kendrick — Vancouver's Tliird Voyage^ Traders of 1794— Treaty of 1791— Tlie Controversy landed— Akiv.i and i'ieice — Final Ahandonnieut of Xootka in .Nhii'cli 179.') — The Tilie — Tlio 'Wianiix' of 1795 — l'>roughton's Visit — Dorr, the Yankee 'i'r;;derof 170() — Rowan and the 'Elisa'of 179S— Cleveland's Criiitc — The 'Betsy' of 1800 -81 CHAPTEPi X. LAST OF THE EXl'LOREHS. 1S01-1S13. Boston Ships of 1801— Record of 1802— :Mishap of the 'Manchester'— Sturgis on tlic Coast — Loss of the 'Boston,' iSOo— Massacre of tlic Cn \v— Jewctt's Captivity— Rowan and Brown at Sau Francisco from the Xorth — List of 1801 — Smugglers — O'Cain and liis Xew Idea — Russian Contracts — Indians Attack the ' Atahiialpa,' 1305 — Lewis and Ckirke's List — Re;;anof and las Fkins, 1800 — Coiuing of tlic Winships- 'O'Cain,' 'Derby,' and 'Cuatinioziu' of 1807— 'Pearl,' 'Vaiieouver,'and 'IMercnry' of 1808-9— TlieFurdiunters of lSlO-11 — ^Vi::ship's ColuniLia Settlement — The 'Alhatrosn' — Yoya-e of the 'Toncpiin'— The 'Beaver' of 1812— EU'ccts of the War— The Traders Bloekaded--Seizuro of the 'jNIercury ' and 'Charon,' 1813— Captain Smith— II. B. il. Sloop 'Baecoon' Takes Astoria— The 'Pedler' of 1811 — The 'Isaac Todd' — The Xorthwest Con:pany's 'Colnmhia' of 181.')— Tlio 'Coloner in California, 1810— Last of tlic ' Albatross '-- Roipufcuirs Voyage in the 'I'ordckn'-,' 1817-18— Last of Maquiima and iwiolka — The Mtu-of-war 'thilaiio' and 'Blossom' — Ves.-els of 1819-10 310 i:yj :8i COXTEXTS. CHArTEPt XI. THE MAiamiK vvn.'in.wE. 1778-184(J. XllJ PACK. TI.e Sc.a.otte.^Conunontaric.3 „p„u lt_T)io Russian Lcdnni.r^s-Tho Uuncso Markct-Cptai. Cook's Discovencs-]>,lt; ]' Z.-ii- In l7^f' ;,'^^ I.Hlia-IIanna and ins Follou-..,.- In Lonlo„_Iortlock and Dixon-Frcncli Iiivestic,,tion-] t IV ^il^"? ut^n" "^ ^'-.^'-J-I-yH^lnnca versus A„K.icans- .j.c^..^a.h Lo.ni,anies--An,encan D.vieo.-D.dino of tl.o ]■•,... ;!4;{ CPIAPTEIl XII. Ni:W FIUNCE AXD THE FCn-TU.AllE. 1524-] 703. CIian;;c of Owncrsinp, in 17;50-G3, of Xortli Amcric;,-Di ...overv F,.,,, >o -S>.Uh V„,e,.icaan.l FloHda-Ti.o Fisi.nncn a. ll" ^e;; Pdl r: v':^ n";' ''" '^ ^-— -nisto,.y c. t.. i-.;:; .^^ tl.c .St Malo Mercl,auts-La Koclio-Tlie Forty Tlmves-l'o " ^•.v.^I,.uvm-Do Cl.astos-CiK.nplain-1.0 Ilont -i^..- W t Cut.c of 1.0 lur-tnuIe-Xcu' England and Xcw Y.rk ]'ut- t ado Condo do So.ssons-Tl.c Company „f 8t Ma!o and Eouon- C amplau. s M.sr„lo-Tho Franoi.soans CoLbrato Mass "., lrance--ri.o Caons-Xow Franco under liidu-Iieu-Tho ' .„d . jW,atc« N,r Willian. Alexander and tin, l.-uthers Ki ! T ' Huronsand il.o I.'o.juois-Trouldos in Arcadia-] )i.enve,v .nd xtw ," r ""', ""' ^''-•^■''^'-^-'J''- <''-'-t Fur il„n.,p„lie,s , Xew i^^e-Lrenei. and Indian War-Fn.al Condict-TLatios^ !7S CHAPTER XIII. F()I!i:ST LIFE AM. FI-U-JirNTINO. 310 lUIci.ST LIFE AM. Fru-JirNTINO. Xo.lJjcrn and An.te,n Fur Territ„ry-Ph,,ical l-eaturos-lTaLiUtH of l'u.d,eann.Ann„als-V.,va,r..urs-('oureur3 des J]oi._An.do. A uc^ -n rapper liis Cl.an.ctcrislics Con.parcd witl. Tlu^o ^ Uo B:::^F:;^s:i;!;r"'^-^"-"^-^^'-'^"^^^''-----^'- ° 404 xLv CONTENTS. CHAPTER xrV. THE FCR-TRADE UNDER BRITISU AUSPICES. 1607-1843. FACE. Eaily Knglish Discovery — Henry Hudson — Grosseliez antl Eabisson, Assisted by Prince Rupert, from the Hudson's Bay Company — Tlio Charter^Territorial Limits of the Company — The French Invade Ilupci-t Land — The Planting of Forts round Hudson Bay — Bounda- ries—The Treaty of Utrecht — Character and Policy of the Corpora- tion — Territorial Divisions — Material of the Hudson's Bay Com- pany — Inner Workings of the System — Stock — Furs — Cuirency — Trade — Intercoui'se between Posts — Profits — Parliamentary Sanction of the Crown Grant 437 CHAPTER XV. FORTS AND FOI^T LIFE. Application of the Term — The Erection of a Fort a Special Favor, and Occasion of Rejoicing,' — A Depot or Factory — Architecture and Con- struction — Examples of Several Forts — York Factory — FortGarrj' — Fort Williiini — Fort Edmonton — Fort Franklin— Fort Vancouver — • Fort Wallii Walla — Fort Rupert — Wyeth's Establishment on Wapato Island — Fort Hall — Fort Yukon — Fort Victoria — Ground Plan of Fort Simpson — Rendezvous — Life at the Forts 482 CHAPTER XVI. I TUE UNITED STATES FUR-TRiVDE. lCOo-1855. Shore of New England — ^Hollanders on the Hudson — The New Nether- lauds Comjiany — The Swedish West India Company on tlie Dela- ware — Henry Fleet on the Potomac — Comparisons between the Fur Business of Canada and the United States — I'ercolations through tho Alleglianies — The Fur-trade of Natchez — The Ohio Company — La- clede, Alaxan, and Company — Auguste and Pierre Chouteau — In- roads from Michiliniackinac — St Louis in 1803 — Trappers on the ^lissouri — The jMissouri Fur Company — Astor's Projects — The Amer- ican Fur Company — Tho Pacific Fur Company — The Soutli-west Company — 1'he Columbia Fur Company — The North American Fur Company — The Rocky Mountain Fur Company — Sublette, IJridger, Fitzpatriek, and Pierre Chouteau the Younger — James Pursloy and tho Opening of tho Santa Fd Trade — B. Pratte and Company — • Bent and St Vrain — Gaunt, Dripps, Blaekwell, and ]\)utenelle — Kit Carson, I'ileher, Bonneville, Walker, and Wycth — Thi' Rendezvous — The Colorado IJasin and Calit'ornia — The C'liina Trade — The Califor- nia Fur-trade — Jedcdiah Smith — Patlic 499 CONTENTS. zv CHAPTER XVII. EKLATIVE ATTITUDES OF FUR-TRADERS AND NATIVES. *'*°'^' Different Views of Savagism by Different Europeans, according to their , Several Interests — United States Policy — Humane Intcutiolis — Vil- lainy of Agents — Border Atrocities — Policy of the Northwest and Hudson's Bay Companies — The Interests of Gold-seekers, Fur Com- panii!s, and Settlers Contrasted — System of Wife-taking — Half- breeds — Intoxicating Drink — Missionaries , . . 5'-!9 CHAPTER XVIII. THE NOBTII-WEST COMPANY, 1783-1821. Character of the Montreal Associates — The French Regime Reviewed^ Trade at Michilimackinac — The Montreal Merchants Penetrate North-westward and Form a Commercial Coj)artncrship — Disall'ec- tionista form tlie X. Y. Company — Union of the Two Factions — Internal I'egulations of tlie Nortliwest Company — Tlie Grand Port- age — Early Voyages from Montreal to Lake Superior — Feudal Glo- ries of I'ort William — Wars between the Northwest Coiiii)any and the Hudson's Bay Company — The lied River Affair — Fusion of the Two Companies 551 CHAPTER XIX. EARLIEST OVERLAND EXPLORATIONS NORTH-WESTWARD. 1G40-1786. Unknown North-wests — The North-west of New France — Champlain — Brebanif — Mesnard — Allouez — .Marquette and Juliet — La Salle and Hennepin — Grosseliez and Radisson — La Hontan — The Story of Joseph La France — Vdreudryc, tlic Fur-hunter, I'roposes to Fit Out an Expedition — Character of Vcrendrye — Governor-gener:d Beauhar- nais Regards the Plan Favorably — Vc'rendrye's Copartnery and Route — Embarkation — Erection of Forts — Massacre at I^c des Bois of Young Vcrendrye, Pure Anneau, and Twenty Men — Discovery of the Rooky Mountains — Verendrye's lieturn and Death — Infamous Conduct of Canadian OHicials — Adventures of Moncacht Apii — Carver's Speculations — IJcarne's Journey — Pike's Exjicditions — Long's Explorations 585 499 CHAPTER XX. PASSES AND ROUTES. Historical Consequences of the Position of the Cordilleras — Pliysical Geography of the Mountain Region of tlio West — TIk? Roclcy ^Nloun- tain Passes between the Arctic Ocean and the Forty-ninth Parallel — Pusses through the Coast Range— Through the Rocky Mountains xvl CONTENTS. Tictwcon L.ititndcs 49° and 32° — Paths across tlic riatoau— The Sierra Nevada — San Dernardiuo Mountains — Tlio Colorado liegion — lloutes throuyli Mexico — Tlie .Sierra Madre — The Eastern llanyc — The LsthniUH and Central American I'asses — Historical and EUino- graphic Signiiicanco of the lloutes from the Atlantic to the Facilie — The Northwest I'assago — The North American Situation- lloutes to Asia Ethnograithically Considered — Historical Conclusions GIG CHAPTER XXI. Mackenzie's voyage. 17S9-1703. Origin, Occupation, and Character of Alexander Mackenzie — His Jour- ney to the Arctic Ocean and Return — Embarks at Fort Chopewyan for the I'acific— Proceeds up Peace River — Winters at Fort Fork — Continues his Journey the Following May — Arrives at the Finlay Lranch— Turns Southward into Parsnip River — Ascends a 13ranch of this Stream to its Source — Portage at the Great Divide — Descends Bad River to the Frazer, which tlie Party Follow as far as Qucsnclle — Return to a Trail al)ovc West Road River — Strike out Overland for the Wi-stcrn Ocean — Route — Arrive at Friendly Village — (Jreat Village — Rascals' Village — Reach the Sea at Bcntincli Nortli Arm — Observations— Traces of Vancouver — Return — Troubles with the Natives — Narrow I'^scapcs — Reach Eraser River — xVrrive ^t Fort Fork— Tlie Journey Completed COG AUTnORITIES QUOTED IN- TUB HISTORY OF THE NORTHWEST COAST. Aa (Pieter vander), Naaukciu'igo Versjimcling. Lcyden, 1707. 30 vols. Abbott (John S. C), Christoplier Carson. 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H. of Rep., Jan. 28, 1840, on Oregon Question. Washington, 1840. Thorne (Robert), The Booko made by the right worshipful. In Ilakluy t's Voy. , i. xxxii AUTHORITIES QUOTED. Thornton (J. Qninn), Oregon History. MS. Thurman (Allen (1.), Speocli in U. S. H. of Rep., Jan. 28, 1840, on Oregon Question. Washington, 18i0. Tiklini(5nef (!'.), Istoritcheskoii Obosranic. St Petersburg, 18G1. 2 vols. Tobar y Taniariz (Joseph), Informc sobre Acoutecimientos. In Viagcro Uni- versal, xxvi. Tod (John), New Caledonia. MS. Tolmio(\VilliamF.), Journal, 18.33. MS. Tolniie (William F. ), Piiget Sound and North West Coast. MS. loniline ((Jeorgc?), Memoirs of the Life of the Right Hon. William Pitt. London, l8--'l. 4to. 2 vols. Tonjuemada (Juan de), Monarquia Indiana. Madrid, 172.3. folio. 3 vols. Townsend (John K. ), NaiTative of a Journey across the Rocky Mountains. Philadelphia, 18.39. Tramp (.J. C ), Prairie and Rocky Mountain Adventures. St Louis, 1860. Trutcli (Joseph), Map of British Columbia, 1871. 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Douay, 1007. »vi ■ ■' //////: III/ V//,,): ''■%/i ^9". i ■/'■'mi. \ / 'I : I'll' ifWs V ^ ''m \r^ f 'V r;/* n HISTORY THE NORTHWEST COAST. CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTORY TO NORTHWEST COAST EXPLORATION. PRIMAHY SlOKTFICANCF. — TlIK SciWECT IN ITS WiDEST ScOPE — TlCE HoME or MvsTi.:vV— IIisTOKio and Mvti'ii; L.teuest — The CoNJEcmtAL and THE r{En, — OuuiiN OK THE Stkait Myth and of the Nouthekn Mysteuv— AVest Coast Theokies— State of Geoorai-hical Knowl- kd<;e in l.joO— In the SorTii-EAST — North-east, Exflokations dy THE CaIIOTS and CoRTEREALS, IIY AlLLON, VeRR^VZANO, CiO.MEZ, CaR- TiER - In the South-west, by Balboa, Esfinosa, Davila, Cortes, Ai.arcon, Ui.loa, Cabrillo — Inland Wanderinos by Cartier, Soto, Caheza de Va('a, Gfz.man, Niza, and Coronado — liV)0 to KiOO, P'ro- iiisHER, Rir.ArLT, Menendez, Raleioh — New Mexican Entradas — Urdaneta, Drake, Gali, CermeSon — IGOOto KioO, Vizcaino, OSate— Canadian Fi'r-hcnters and .Jesuits— Hudson and Baffin— ITmO to 17(K), the Hudson's Bay Company, Marquette, La Salle, and Padre Kino— 1700 to 17o0, Philippine Galleons — Enolish Freep.ooters— Verendrye to the Rocky Mointains — Arctic Discoveries— J 7r)0 to ISOO, I[i:ar:.e and Mackenzie— Escal>vxte in Utah— Occupation of California — Russian Discoveries. Every ago, as presented to us by history, displays some features better and some worse than the cor- responding churac'.eristics of our own age. Tiiere are so-called golden ages, in which hcHior is besnujarcd with vices such as times were never cursed with before; and there are bra-js as^es and iron ages, in which there is truth and heroism, if not so many of the comely and sweet humanities of life. Human progress is like the Vol. I X ^ ° .-rf >V>^'AV^'''"' — ■''. 1 1 -.I'M'' 5-3^ 01 111 till NORTHWEST COAST r ;/ ) ,/f ^-'^ y * f. St .►' "'"^Va, \ J /-•' ^""'. w„ .1 >• . . ..... vei 3) ^ t» / f" 'J. ■\ V.^ . .„ ' ,, , /, A A ,..»'' ' _ .;-rf' "' ' T^./^. ,s A NORTHWEST COAST EXPLORATION. waters of ocean, ever circulating between equator and poles, seeking equilibrium of temperature and a level, seekrnn; rest and findinjj none. A dominant feature in Northwest Coast discovery ana exploration is royal mendacity. Maritime lying readies the climax, and borders on the heroic. Enough is known of climates and configurations to form bases for endless imaginings, and not enough in certain quarters to render detection likely; the listener's mind once made up to overlook the audacious in- difference to truth on the part of navigators, and he will find their tales not always unpleasing. The term Northwest Coast, as defined for the pur- pose of this history, includes the territory known in later times as Oregon, Washington, and British Co- lumbia. Exploration naturally occupies the first place in its annals ; and the earliest exploration here, as in most ])arts of the New World, is maritime. The his- torian's first task is to present, in chronologic order, the successive voyages by which the coast of the western ocean from latitude forty-two to fifty-four north became known to Europeans, and on which Were founded divers claims, more or less conflicting, of national ownership. Later we will observe inland travellers, and follow them amidst their wanderings over the mighty western slope, and as far north as the Frozen Sea. In its narrowest limits the subject first presents itself in the form of the geographical ex- ploration of an unknown seaboard some seven hun- dred and fifty miles in extent. But it has a broader scope. Just as Prince Henry's southward gropings along the Aft'ican coast acquire their chief interest and importance as part of a grand scheme of doubling the cape and opening a way by sea to India; as the first discoveries of Columbus in the far west are fascinating, not only in bringing to light the position, outline, and products of certain islands, but in the idea of the great explorer's fancied ^A MANIFOLD WONDERS. 3 approach to the realms of the Grand Khan, and in the real but unsuspected nearness of a new continent; as the Isthmian coastings and plundcrings, a long chapter of outrage and disaster, are linked in the reader's mind with Balboa's grand discovery of a new ocean, and with the rich provinces located by Spanish imagina- tion on its shores; as Portuguese progress, step by stop down the Brazilian coast, was but a prelude to ^lagellan's voyages into the Pacific and round the world; as Ponce de Leon's name suggests not the marshes of Florida so much as the fountain of youth; as the plod dings of Cortes on and about the sterile Californian Peuinsnia were but commonplace achieve- ments for the conqueror of Mexico compared with what he hoped to achieve and what he sought, the isles of pearls and spices and Amazons, the estrecho, and the route to India; and as New Mexican Pueblo town realiti'js, wonderful as they are, pale into in- signiticancc before the imaginary splendors of the cities that Cabcza de Vaca heard of, the Cibola that ^Marcos d j Niza visited, and the Quivira built up like an air castle on Coronado's modest picture of a wig- wam town on the northern plains — so this northern coast ot the Oregon must ever bo less famous histori- cally for what was found there and for the adventures of those who found it, than for what was souijht in \ -im, and what ought by current cosmography to have ^K'xtl f(jund. Here opened into the broad Pacific the ^st' ait of Anian, by which ships, when once the en- a';inr,e on either side was found, mi'dit sail without hit.-ii^ranco from ocean to ocean. Hero, on either side iiie strait, manifold wonders and mysteries had their inaccessible seat for more than two centuries. Hero, at and about an island standing o])posite the eutranco of a strait that lacked only length to afford the desired intcroceanic communication, Russian ex- plorers came down from the farther north and met k5!)anish explorers from the south, while others,Enghsh and iVmerican, intruded themselves and gained for 4 NORTHWEST COAST EXPLORATION. their respective nations permanent pojj.iessions between those of Spain and Russia. Much historic interest attaches therefore to this portion of the western sea- board in comparison with other parts, independently of the mythic elements in the Northern Mystery which centres here, and of the fascinations naturally attaching to the discovery of new regions. I have to follow, then, the navigators of four nations whose vessels entered the waters of the northern Pacific States; and besides to make the reader familiar A\4th voyages in the same direction preceding nud leading to actual (hicovery. Moreover, since conjecture is to be recorder' i ^ '■•s than the known, theory preceding and overshaii >g knowledge, I have to note the rumors on whicii liieorics were made to rest, also many voyages which were never made, but only described by imaginative navigators. And finally, the mytliical strait had an opening on the Atlantic as well as on the Pacific, else it wore not worth searching for and theorizing about; and the eastern no less than the western outlet was sought for diligently in voyages which therefore become part of the matter under con- sideration. It will be seen that this topic of north-weptern ex- ploration in its broadest scope, and with all its prece- dent connections, might properly enough be made to fill a volume. There are circumstances, however, which will enable me to restrict an exhaustive pre- sentation of the subject within comparatively narrow limits. Chief amonof these circumstances is the fact that the exploration of regions south of the forty- second parallel, both b}'^ sea and land, has been fully I'ccordcd in every desirable detail in the preceding volumes of this scries; while like particulars of explo- rations in the extreme north, less essential to the pres- ent purpose, will be giv^en in a later volume on Alaska. Therefore brief and sunnnary allusion to matters with which the reader is familiar will often suffice, where otherwise more minute treatment would be re- THE NORTHERN MYSTERY. 6 quired. Hcpctition there must be in some pliascs of tJie subject, but only in those bearing directly on the general result. Again, I believe that in the case of tictitious voyages and groundless theories, respect- ing whose character modern knowledge leaves no possible doubt, most of the circumstantial evidence which fills the pages of earlier writers for or against their authenticity and soundness may now be wisely omitted. Detailed description may also profitably give way to general statement in presenting ex])edi- tions to the northern Atlantic coasts in the vain search for a passage leading to the Pacific. As in other parts '^f this series, detailed information con- cerniuLT the ajorijxlnal inhabitants of the regions explored is of coui'se omitted from the annals of exploration, for that has been presented much more completely than would be possible here in the Native Races of the Facijic States. It is well at the outset to state clearly, even though it involves repetition, the origin of the cosmograi)]iic mysteries in which the northern parts of xVmerica were so long shrouded ; for they dicf not result wholly from the fact that those regions were the last to be explored. The Xorthern Mystery was a western mys- tery at first, if, indeed, a mystery at all. Columbus set out from Spain with the expectation that by fol- lowing a westerly course across the great ocean he would reach the Asiatic coast and islands described by Polo and Mandeville. By a fortunate under- estimate of the distance to be traversed, the islands and coast were found to agree substantially in posi- tion and trend with the current charts and descrip- tions. The navigator's theories, agreeing in the main with the theories of his contemporaries and prede- cessors, were verified ; the enter[)rise was successful ; and all that remained to be done was to follow the Asiatic coast south-westward to the rich provinces of India. This task presented no difficulties; but I i 6 NORTHWEST COAST EXPLORATION". before circumstances permitted it to be executed a new land was found in the south, not laid down in the old charts, and too far east to be part of the Asiatic main. The conclusion was immediate and natural; the new land was simply a large island, separate but not very far distant from the main, and not known to Marco Polo and the rest. The new discovery, how- ever, offered no obstacle to the old theories or to the proposed voyage to India; yet in coasting south- westward the Spaniards would have to pass between the continent and the island. This passage must be a strait; and this was indeed * the strait,' although in its earliest stage of development not a passage through a continent, but between Asia and an oft- lying island. But as time passed and explorers converged from the north and south they could find no strait, only land. This wa.:i an obstacle indeed. True, the passage being narrow might yet exist, having eluded inade- quate search; otherwise geographical theories must be somewhat reconstructed, the old charts and de- scriptions being in error. The correction, though in- terposing serious difficulties in the direct navigation to India, was one that readily suggested itself The latitudes of the old writers were not very definite, and their knowledge of the regions farthest north was necessarily vague; apparently, then, unless the strait could yet be found, the new land — really South America — instead of being a detached island off" the coast of Asia, must be a south-western projection of that coast from a point farther north than any known to the geographers. As the years passed on and no strait was found ; as successive voyages developed the great extent of the southern projection; as the Isth- mian explorers brought to light the South Sea shores ; as the great Portuguese navigator crossed the Pacific and made known the immense stretch of waters sepa- rating the new lands from India; as Cortds and his men revealed the fact that Mexico also had its western DECLINE OF SPANISH EFFORT. 7 coast — the last conjecture became conviction and reality. More than this, it became evident that not only was the Now World a projection of the Asiatic maiti, but that all the new discoveries belonged to this New World projection, and that all the islands and main land of Columbus and the rest, were very far from the India which had been imagined so near. Yet there remained but little doubt that all was part of Asia, a projection still, though an immense one, from a region farther north. And the idea that there ought to be a strait somewhere had become too firmly rooted to be abandoned. There were those who thought the strait might yet with closer search be found in. southern regions ; most believed it would be found in the north just beyond the limit of explora- tion; while others, resolved to be fully abreast of future revelations, placed several straits at convenient intervals on their maps. Now the current idea among the most competent men of the time was for the most part accurate and well founded. All that remained to be done was to follow the western coast, at first north, then west, and finally south, to India, finding the strait on the way if any existed. The only error was in vastly underestimating the length of the route. It was not long, however, before exploration was pushed beyond the fortieth parallel. Meanwhile Spanish energy in exploration and conquest had greatly de- clined, though Spain's commercial interests in South Sea waters, over which she claimed to exercise ex- clusive dominion, had assumed immense importance. Spain had no strong desire for territorial possessions in the far north after the geographical relations of that region to India had become better known ; and it soon became apparent that the discovery of the strait would be no benefit but a positive disadvantage and menace to Spain. Nevertheless it was important, and even more urgent than before, to find the .strait — not as a shorter route to the Spice Islands, but that, I 8 NORTHWEST COAST EXPLORATION. in possession of Spain, it might be closed to the navi- gators of other nations. For the foreigners were dihgently seeking it; there were even current reports that they had found it, concealing the fact; and the ravages of freebooters in South Sea waters caused no little anxiety on the subject. Meanwhile theorizing went on, supplemented by exaggeration and falsehood. Each navigator to the north, on either ocean, brought back information true or false which served as fuel to the flame. The strait undoubtedly existed; each indentation on either shore must be regarded as its entrance till the contrary was proved; and that being proved, the indentation next north must be the right one. " It were a pity," thought the navigator when at or near a gulf, bay, or river lie was prevented by storms, scurvy, or other untoward circumstances from sailing through to the Pacific or to the Atlantic, " it were a pity that another should immortalize himself by the rediscovery of what I have found;" and forthwith he proceeded to protect his glory by an explicit description of what he had been on the point of seeing. Others required no actual voyage as a foundation for their falsehoods, but boldly claimed to have navigated the strait from ocean to ocean; and few interested in the subject but could find a sailor who had accomplished one of these interoccanic expeditions, or at least knew another who had done so. And the fables current did not relate wliollv to the mere existence of the strait, but ex- tended to the wonders bordering it on either side. Travellers by sea and land brought back tales of great cities and rich provinces, always farther north than the region they had visited. The natives caught the spirit of the times, and became adroit in inventing northern marvels for the entertainment of the strangers. There is much reason to believe that the famous and fabulous tradition of an aboriginal migra- tion of Toltec and Aztec tribes from a northern centre of civilization had no other origin. 1 the the Jra- itre THE STILUT OF ANIAN. 9 There were those who sought to utiHzo the Northern Mystery for the advaiiceineut of their own interests and schemes. Conquistadores were not wanting who stood prepared to dupHcate in the far north the acliievenients of Hernan Cortes; friars doubted not that there awaited the reaping a great harvest of northern souls; and explorers were ready to make new expeditions at the royal cost. There was a constant stream of memorials on the importance of northern occupation ; and the writers never failed to make the most of current rumors. Yet for all the real and imagi- nary urguucy of the matter, and the pressure brought to bear on the throne, so occupied were the Spanish rulers with other affairs, or so completely had died out the adventurous spirit of old, and so unproductive were the few weak efforts made, that for two centu- ries little or nothing was accomplished. Then, late in the eighteenth century, in the time of Carlos III., tliere was a revival of exploring energy. All the old motives were yet potent; and a new cause of alarm appeared, the fear of Russian encroachment from the north-west. A series of voyages was undertaken and carried out by Spain ; English and American explorers made their appearance on the coast; the llussians were tliere already; and soon but little of mystery was left. No strait of Anian was found. There were none of the marvellous things that had been so freely attributed to the latitudes between 40' and 00^; but there was a wealth of furs for those inclined to ad- venturous commerce, and there was a tijrritcny of sufficient value to inspire some petty national cpiar- rels. These discoveries, and others of about the sanio date in the northern Atlantic, practically put an end to the Northern Mystery so far as it related to a navi- gable channel in moderately temperate latitudes, as located by the navigators who had sailed through the continent from ocean to ocean; though many years had yet to })ass before belief in the old narratives and theories could be eradicated. V r* 10 NORTHWEST COAST EXPLOILVTION. And after all, the Northern Mystery was still a potent incentive to maritime endeavor. It merely took another step northward, as it had often done before. In Arctic regions the strait separating Asia from America was still sought as diligently as ever; and after many years it was found. One man has sailed through it, from the Atlantic to tJie Pacific, after the loss of hundreds of lives in vain efforts. And yet one more retreat has the mystery — in the famous 'open sea' at the north pole, where it even yet eludes the pursuit in which brave men are still losing their lives. Driven from the north pole, whither will the phantom betake itself? I do not know. Judging from the past, this is the only mystery about the matter not likely to be explained in the near future^ After this preliminary sketch of the whole subject, let us glance at the exact condition of North Ameri- can ex[)loration in 1550. All the material needed for the purpose is contained in the * Summary of geo- graphical knowledge and discovery from the eailiest records to the year 1540,' published in the first volume of my History of Central America, supplemented in later volumes of this series by more detailed accounts of such voyages as directly concern the Pacific States territory. Between 1492 and 1550 European navi- gators, with those of Spain far in the lead, had dis- covered a New World, and had explored its coast line for some thirty thousand miles, from 60° on the At- lantic coast of Labrador round by Magellan Strait to above 40" on the Pacific. It was a grand achievement, unparalleled in the past and never to be equalled in the future. On the Atlantic side, from Darien to Florida, the coast and islands had been visited by Columbus in his voyages of 1492, 1493-5, and 1502; by E?i«tidas in 1501; by Cosa and Ojeda in 1504-5; by Pinzon and Diaz in 1506; by Ojeda, Nicuesa, and other would-be rulers of mainland colonies since 1509; by EARLIEST DISCOVERIES. 11 Ponce do Loon in 1512 and 1521; by Vaklivia in 1512; by Miruelo in 1516; by Cordoba and Grijalva in 1517-18; by Cortds, Pineda, Garay, and Alaniinos in 1511); by Garay in 1523; by Olid in 1524; by Mon- tejo in 1527; by Pjlnfilo de Narvaez in 1528-34; by Soto in 1538-43; and by many other navigators who surveyed only such parts of the coast as had been already discovered. Farther north on the Atlantic, from Florida to Labrador, the exploration was less thorough, but it covered in a measure the whole coast. In 1497 John Cabot, from England, probably reached Labrador between 5^ and 58°, and coasted northward some hundreds of leagues. That land existed, and of great extent, in that direction was the only geographical fact developed by the voyage. In 1498 Sebastian Cabot made a similar voyage, in which he coasted from Labrador northward possibly to 67° 30', and then southward to the gulf of St Lawrence, and perhaps to Cape Hatteras. There is no reason to question the fact that these voj'-ages of the Cabots were made as claimed ; but the records are vague, and nothing is known of the cosmographical motives or the results. The Cortereals, Gaspar and Miguel, made three voyages for Portugal in 1500-2, in which they followed the coast from Newfoundland far to the north, perhaps to Greenland. Both brothers were lost; and of discoveries made during the last expedi- tion nothing is known. The Cortereals gave names to Newfoundland and Labrador, as depicted on ina)is of the time; they also left several local names. No contemporary narrative of the discoveries of eith' » the Cabots or Cortereals is extant. The Portugu;' t; fishermen are supposed to have continued their tiii)s to Labrador and Newfoundland — Bacalaofi, land t)f codfish — but no geographical results are known; and the same may be said of the voyages of the Bretons and Normans, including those of Denys in 1500 and Aubert in 1508, the former of whom is said to have 12 NORTHWEST COAST EXPLORATION. cxi)l()rc(l the gulf of St Lawrence. In 1520 Vazquez de Ailh^n sunt out an expedition from Espauola under Jordan, wlio reached a country called by him Chicora, on the present Carolina coast. In 1524 Giovanni Verrazano, for France, reached the coast not far from Jordan's Chicora, sailed southward some fifty leagues, antl then northward to Newfoundland. He was thus the first to explore a largo portion of the United States shore-line. Estevan Gomez perhaps c()mi)leted tliat line in 1525, when uoeking hi behalf of S])ain a strait between Newfoundland and Florida. Aillon in 1520 also sought the strait from Chicora southward, making at the same t'.me a vain effort at colonization. In 1527 John Rut, ai> English navigator, is said to have followed the '^j. st from 53^ down to Chicora. Jacques Cartier f(< .ance made three expeditions, in 1534, 1535-G, aiwl > i--2. Incited by Verrazano's narrative and -^haiv . .js main object was to find a passage to the Soutli Sea and Spice Islands. He did not find the strait, but he effected a very com])lete survey of the gulf and river of St Lawrence, New- foundland, and all the surrounding complication of islands and channels. From Carticr's time the names of Nouvelle Fiance, Canada, Newfoundland, St Law- rence, Montreal, and many others still in use became current, some of them having been applied before. French and other fishermen had long frequented tlieso waters; and maps of the time show many details not to be found in any narrative. The French possessions included all territory above latitude 40'. In connec- tion with Cartier's last voyage, a settlement was made near Quebec under lioberval as viceroy of Canada, Labrador, and the rest; but it was abandoned in 1543. And finally one Master Here, an Englishman, has left on record a voyage to Newfoundland made in 153G. This completes the list down to the middle of the century. For the purpose in view we may regard the Atlantic coast as fully explored from Darien to Hudson Strait in latitude 60°. Cj PRor.REs>* sourmv.vRD. 13 w «' novr turn southward, and with Vasco Nunez do lialhoa crosH to the South Sea in 1513. Hia j^raiid discovery made, he soon built certain vessels, in which, the Isthmian coasts and islands were ex- plored. And with these vessels in 1519 Gaspar do Es])inf ia pushed the exploration to the Costa Rican ir\\\\' < r' Nicoya, in 10°, visited already in 1517 hy Hurf tdo in canoes. In 1522 Gil Gonzalez Diivila, on »•( her craft transported across the Isthmus, sailed aira'a to Nicoya, and by land went on to Nicaragua, wli>l<' Andres Nino continued his voyaj^o by sea at "least to the gulf of Fonseca, in latitude 13', nud probably farther — even to Soconusco or Tehuan- tcpec, if we may credit the distances given by the chroniclers. Meanwhile Hernan Cortes, after con- quering for Spain the Mexican table-land f)f Aniihuac, had through Spanish agents discovered the western coast at three different points, thus determining its general trend, and adding from two to five degrees to knowledge of its extent. All this before the end of 1522. • The points were Tehuantepec, in IG", whence the native chiefs sent their allegiance; Tututcpec, in about the same latitude, but one hundred miles farther west, occupied by Pedro de Alvarado; and Zacatula, in 1(S', where Cortes simultaneously began to found a settlement, and constructed vessels for northern exploration. After long and vexatious delays, with which we are not at present concerned, the new vessels M'ere completed in 1 520, and another from the strait of Magellan, under Guevara, arrived at Tehuantepec, and was brought to Zacatula. This fleet was ordered to the Moluccas in such haste that it cuuu" not take the proposed route along the northern coasts, but sailed direct for India in 1527; not, how- ever, until three of the vessels had made a trial trip to the port of Santiago, in Colima, a port already dis- covered by Francisco Cortes' land expedition three years before. The coast now lay disclosed from Panamit to Colima. Five years elapsed before Cort(5s was able 14 NORTHAVEST COAST EXPLORATI^ to accomplish fi.nytliing on the northern coasts. The expeditions sent out by him were as follows: In 1533 Hurtado de Mendoza reached the Sinaloa coast, and was killed at the Rio Fuerte, while his associate Mazuela returned with one of the vessels to Banderas Bay, in Jalisco. In 1533 were made the voyages of Beccrra, Grijalva, and Jimenez, in which the latter discovered the southern part of the Californian Penin- sula, supposed to be an island. Beyond the revelation of this new land the expedition, and that of Cortes himself in 1535-G, added nothing to north-western geography. Finally Ulloa was sent out in 1539; and he not only explored the gulf to its head on both sides, but doubled the cape and pushed the exploration on the main coast to Cedros Island, in 29°. The viceroy Mendoza now succeeded the conqueror as patron of exploration, and despatched two expeditions by water. The first was that of Alarcon, in 1540, in whicli ho reached the head of the gulf and explored the mouth of the Colorado. The other was under the conmiand of Cabrillo, who in 1542-3 reached, as he thoaght, the latitude of 44°, determining the general trend of the coast, though not landing above Point Concejicion, in 34". No more attempts were made in this direction before 1550. ^Meanwhile maritime exploration had been sup- plemented to some extent by land expeditions and settlement, which, contributing niaterially to current knowledge of the continent, must be noticed here. In the north-eastern section, from Texas to Labrador, there was notiiing that could be called settlement, though tlie regions about Newfoundland were frequented by French ami I*ortuguese fishermen, and a Frencli fort had been maintained near Quebec for a year or two, till 1543. In the far north the only penetration into the continent was that of 153G-42, by CaHier, who wi'ut up the St Lawience gulf and river nearly fivo hundred miles, past the site of Montreal and to tho fall's of St Louis. Southward, only the coast outline INTERIOR EXPEDITIOXS. 15 sup- ancl rrciit In there ougli d by fort two, into who L' tivo I) tho itUno was known to Florida, where we have the inland wanderings of Hernando de Soto, contemporary with thoBe of Cartier. Landing with a large company in 1530 on the gulf coast of Florida, at Tampa J jay, Soto proceeded by an inland course to the vicinity of Talla- hassee ; thence north-easterly to the Savannah Kivcr, below Augusta; thence north-westward to the Ten- nessee line, near Dalton, Georgia; thence south-easterly to a jioint near the head of Mobile Bay; and again north-west to the Mississippi, not far from the mouth of the Arkansas. From this region in 1541-2 the Spaniards made a long tour to the westward. After their return to the groat river, Soto died, and was succeeded in command by Luis de Moscos(i, under wliom tliey attempted to reach Mexico by land, pene- trating about one hundred and fifty leagues to the westward, and coming within sight of mountains. But they were forced to return to the Mississippi; and from a point not far above the Arkansas they em- barked, July 1543, in vessels built for the purpose, reached the gulf in twenty days, and thence sailed to Pdnuco. In respect, to particular localities this ex- ploration leaves much room for doubt and discussion, but the general scope and direction of Soto's wan- derings through the territory of Florida, Georgia, Alabama, Arkansas, Texas, and Louisiana are well enou'j^h established. Least defined of all is the route in Texas; but seven years before, in 1535, Cabeza de Vaca and his throe companions, shipwrecked mem- bers of Narvaez' band, liad escaped from tluir long cai)tivity among the Indians^ crossed Texas from Esj)iritu Santo Bay to the region of El Paso, and had passi'd into Chihuahua by a route south o{' that of Soto, though gradually a))proaching it, and extend- ing farther into the interior. Fi»r the regions of Centnd America and s;)utliern Mexico I need not give, even iii resume, the dilfcrent ex])editions by which conquest and settlement were eii'eeted; sullice it to say that before 1550 both had » NORTirW^ST COAST EXPLORATIOX. been accomplished in a pfeneral way from Darien and Panamd, to Panuco on the gulf, and to Siiialoa on the Pacific. On the western side, the occupation from Michoacan to Sinaloa had preceded maritime explo- ration in the same direction, chiefly under Nuno de Guzman, who had conquered Jalisco and established a permanent Spanish garrison at Culiacan in 1531. From this advanced post Guzman's officers made ex- peditions northward to the Yaqui River in 1533, and north-eastward into Durango at an earlier date. It was in 153G that Cabeza de Vaca and his companions arrived at San Miguel de Culiacan, after traversing Texas, Chihuahua, and Sonora, thus completing the first transcontinental trip in northern latitudes, and the most famous since that of Vasco Nunez de Balboa. Cabeza de Vaca had heard reports of the New Mexi- can Pueblo towns, south of which he had passed; and those reports, exaggerated, kindled anew the zeal for northern exploration, resulting in the voyages of Ulloa, Alarcon, and Cabrillo, to which I have already alluded, and the land expeditions of Niza and Coronado, the last that come within the limits of the present sketch. Friar ^larcos de Niza advanced in 1539 from Culia- can to Cibola, as the Zuiii Pueblo towns in 35° were then called, and brought back most exaggerated re- ports of rich cities and kingdoms in that region. In the following year Francisco A^isquez de Coronado with a large force set out for further exploration and conquest in tlio north. Coronado, like Niza, went to Zuhi; ami from tliat point he sent out Tobar and Cardenas to the jMoqui towns in 3(1", the latter reach- ing tlie great cafion of tho Colorado in the north- eastern part of what is now Arizona. He also sent a purty bark to Sonora, from which region one of the officers, Melohor JJiaz, made an expedition to tho mouth of the Colorado, ascending the river nearly to the Ciila, jind crossing to explore a little farther west. J\leunwhilo Coronado proceeded eastward and 4 1 i SIXTEENTH-CENTURY PROGRESS. 17 passed the winter in the Pueblo towns of the Rio Grande del Norte, in New Mexico. In the spring of 1541 an expedition was made which carried the Spaniards some eighty-five days' journey north-east- ward over tlie plains of Texas to the wigwam town of Quivira, perJiaps in 40°, beyond the Arkansas. Coronado passed far north of Cabeza de Vaca's route, but very likely crossed that of Soto, or at least ap- proached it very closely. During another winter passed on the Rio Grande, exploration was pushed to Taos, in 3G° 30'; and then, in 1542, the expedition returned to Culiacan, leaving the great northern in- terior to its primeval savagism. Thus in the middle of the sixteenth century, the northern limit of inland exploration may be given as a line crossing the continent just below the thirty- sixth parallel from the Colorado to the Savannah; Coronado having passed the line in its central part, and advanced into the modern Kansas. The coasts on either side were explored to much higher latitudes, the Atlantic with tolerable accuracy to G0°, and the Pacific in a manner barely to show the shore-]* e trend to 44°. Miips of the time, which there is no occasion to specify in this connection, added nothing to the narratives of explorers in the west, and were eviai less perfect than they might have been made from those narratives; while in the east, and partiams ■:-• and i I by k San wa!4 , but Toni idro rion the ineo Russian discoveries from the north-west demand but l)rief notice here, the subject beinj^^ presented with full details in a later volume of this seiics de- voted to the history of Alaska. Before IGOO tlie Cossacks had crossed the Ural Mountains and occu- pied the valley of the Obi, in Asia. At the same date small Russian craft navigated the coast waters of tliat region in the Kara Sea; and the same waters had l)ceii reached by the English and Dutch in tlu^ir searcli for a north-east passage, toward which end but little additional progress was ever ma»le in later times. Between 1600 and 1G50 the Cossack;; traversed Siberia in search for sablo, crossed river aft'^r river as fresh huutinir-grounds were needed, suldued the inliabi- tants, and reached the Pacific in 1G39. The chief Russian establishment on the PaL'ific, which wa.s dis- covered at many points, wa:^ ot Okhotsk, on the sea of tbi' same name. Thus mor j than twenty-five huii- dre-- miles of unknown territory were explored and occupied by small bands of roving fur-hunters. The discovery of mines on the Amoor, and fossil ivory in tlie extreme north-east, was added to the incentives. During IGJO to 1700 nearly every part of the Asiatic coast up to the strait and including the peninsula of Kamchatka had been visited by one adventurous party or another, and only the fierce Chukchi of the north- east remained unconquered. Abundant evidence was found of the existence of land still farther east. Trees and various articles not of Asiatic origin were often washed ashore: and indeed the natives made no secret of their frequent intercourse with a jjcople from tlie cast who came iri boats or on the ice, and who spoke a language different from their own. Tlie Russian government became interested in the rumors of new lands; a post had been founded on tlie eastei'ii shore of Kamchatka; and in 1728 Vitus Jieiing was sent in a vessel built there to learn the truth respecting the current rumors, and especially to iind whether the eastern lands were part of Siberia or NORTHWEST COAST EXPLORATION. |i j i 1 separated from it by water. Bering in this voyage reached the strait between the continents to which his name is given, naming St Lawrence Island,, and observing the point in 67" 18', beyond which tlic coast turned abruptly westward, decided that tlie reported land not yet seen by any Kussian was not an extension of Asia. There is some evidence tliat in the earlier coastings Bering Strait had been passed through once or twice; and it somewhat vaguely appears that in 1730 Krupischef and Gwoz- def, following Bering, actually came in sight of the American continent, along which they coasted south- ward for two days. In 1741 Bering made his second expedition, during which his associate Chirikof first saw the continent, in latitude 55° 3G', near the later Sitka, where two boat-crews landed and were probably killed by the natives, as they were never heard of again. The commander then coasted northward four or five hundred miles before returning to Kamchatka. Bering meanwhile struck the coast a few days later than Chirikof, in latitude 58" 28', in sight of Mount St Elias. Thence he followed the shore westward and south-westward, named the Shumagin Islands, and was finally wrecked on Bering Island, near the Kam- c' atka coast, where he died. The presence of valu- able sea-otter on the American coast and islands — or rather at first on Asiatic islands in that direction — becoming known was the chief incentive to further eftbrts. In. 1745 Nev6dchikof made the first hunting trip to the nearest Aleutian Islands; and thencefor- ward one or more expeditions were fitted out nearly cv^ery year b} Siberian merchant companies, many of whicli proved profitable. Discovery was in this way pushed eastward until Kadiak was reached by Glottof m his trip of 1563-5. The obstacles encountered in the exploration of these northern seas, and the reck- less daring and energy displayed in overcoming these obstacles, are unsarpassed hi the history of American discovery. The Russian craft were small, hastily con- RUSSIAN NAVIGATION. 81 1 — or iting tofor- 3arly |iy of way ittof 3(1 in reck- these [•ican Icon- t structccl by men who knew but little of their task, and were often mere boxes of planks held together by leathern thongs, without iron. They were in every way inferior to the wo^-st vessels employed by navigators of other nations . any part of America. In these frail boats, poorly supplied with food, gener- ally without remedies against scurvy, these bold sailors did not hesitate to commit themselves to the icy waves and furious gales of the Arctic seas. Rarely was an expedition unattended by shipwreck and starvation; but sea-otter were plentiful. Notwithstanding the numerous voyages it does not appear that the conti- nental coasts, either above or below the Alaskan peninsula, were ever visited by the Russians after the time of Bering, and before Cook's survey in 1778. After this date such visits were frequent, resulting in permanent occupation at many points; but it remained for Cook to make known the general features of the entire coast to the strait. Subsequent local explora- tions by the Russians, English, Spanish, and French in !S(juth-eastern Alaska at later dates have no bearing on our present study. CHAPTER II. f 111 1 I : I THE NORTHERX MYSTERY AND IMAGINARY GEOGRAPHY. 1500-1595. Field of Cox.tecture— Mythic Geoorapiiy— Strait or no Strait— Pas- sack TO India — Cabots and Cortekeals — Rcy.scii and ScniiNER— Amazon Isles — Clavos and Esclavos— Maps of 15;}0-1 — Qcekn of California — Canadian Rcmous— Niza's Fictions — Real Exhlor.*- TiONs OF 1540-3 — CiuoLA, TiouEX, AND QciviRA — (Jomara's Blun- der — RCSCELLI AND MuNSTER — RaMI'SIO AND IIOMEM— A ClIOICE OF Straits— TiiEouiES of Menendez — First Trip throitou the Strait — Urdaneta— Salvatiekra's Tale — Ribai'lt— Tai-ia — Oktklhts' Tue- ATRl'M — TOLM — AnL\N — ORIGIN OF THE XaME — LaDRILLEHO AT THE Strait — Mkta Incoumta — Martin Chacke — Drake's Pilot — Esi'iiio's Lake and River — Haklu^t — Lok's Map — By the Roanoke to the Pacific — L.V Giux "opal — Peter Martyr— Acosta on the Mysteuv. In the preceding chapter, after an outline of North- west Coast ex[)lorations, showing how much of its interest and iinportanco is connected witli events which are geographically and chronologically outside the limits of this section, and presenting the mythical aspects of the matter in their origin and general scope, I have traced the progress made by Europeans toward the Northwest Coast before they reached the territoiy so designated and began its actual ex}>lora- tion. Deferring that exploration for other chai)ters, I propose first of all to treat the subject in its myth- ical, imaginary, theoretical, and a[)ocry})hal phases. It is an olla podi'ida of absurdities that is oftered, made up of quaint conjectures respecting a land that had never been seen, and the various approaches to that land; for it was not to the Northwest Coast proper that these conjectures were directed so much as to the broad border-laud surrounding it. (82) ASIA AXD AMERICA. In the middle of tlie sixteentli century, aa we have seen, the western coast was known northward to lati- tude 40' and l)eyond, the eastern coast ahovti <)0", and the intei'ior A.iguely as far north as tlu; Colorado and Arkansas rivers. All the hroad interior faither nortli, slii^litly encased, up to the limits named, hy u thin shell of coast discovery, was a tcri'fi incn^/nifa, if iiidccid it were a tcrro at all, and not [>ait of an ocean or an iidaiid sea. liespectini^ tliis region conjcctui-e had thus far heen partly reasonahle. The pi-ocess of development has already been traced; first the new discoveries as j)ai't of the Asiatic main to be coasted soutli-westward to India; next, the southern jjortion of those discovt'ries as a <;reat island separated from Asia by a 'strait'; then tiie strait an isthmus lather, and the island a threat south-eastern projiiction from the continent; and finally an extension of the ]>ro- jection so as to inchKk; the rejjfions noilh as well as eolith of the J^ananui Fsthmus, and to join the Asiatic main at a higher latitude than 40' at least, if at all. I do not say that this theoiy of geoo-raphical evolu- tion will satisfactorily account for every recorded statement or icL-a of eveiy eai'ly navij^ator, or cosmoijc- rapher, w map-maker; but the eX(jeptions ai'o so few and slijj;iit as by no means to impair the theory, or to alfoi'd a basis for any other. By laaOit was well understood that the new lands Were of continental }tro[)ortions, and very far from Asia in their southei-n ))arts. Whether they were also distant in the north was an open ([Uestion, for the Milution of which no real data existed. OlHcial chart- makers ;md the most conijtetent of <>eo_iL]fra])hers con- tented themselxes with recording' the results of actual e\|>loration, leavino- a blank on their maj)s for tlu^ country yet unvisited, while in the ti-xt they noted, without conunittintjf themselves, the various theories. Many still believed Noith Amei'ica to be a part of the Asiatic continent, and expected to find the coast- line turning- t«» the west nt)t .Ur beyond latitude 40', lliBV .N. W. CuABT, Vol. I. 3 8i THE NORTHERN MYSTERY. and thonee southward to India; Imt others — ahnost all in lator years — holii-vod in a strait separating the two continents somewhere in tlie north-west. This theory of a northern strait was somewhat incoherently huilt on the eircumstanee that a passaj^e had heeu vainly souij^ht in the central rei»ions, on IMji^j^ellan Strait actuall}' found in the far south, on statements of ancient writers respuctin*^ the lost Atlantis, which might have heen part t)f America and which had been described as an island, and on the discovery of certain unexplored inlets along the north-eastern coasts. Those who believed in the separation by water diti'ered widely about its nature. Some thouijht it to be a narrow strait, others a broad one; some placed it between two opposite capes, others made of it a long winding chamiel, or a succession of hdvcs, or a net-work of intertwining channels, or an archi[)elago; while there were many who regarded it as a broad expanse of salt water, reducing North Anunica to a long narrow strip of irregular form, which extended from south-west to north-east, and j..:;]v'.ps W!>«Jjt-:-^lf eut nj) by narrow interoccanic ])as.sages not yet discovered. It cannot be said that the ideas of one class on this .subject were in any respect su})eri(jr to those of another; all were but conjecture; nor do such maps as re[tresent the northern regions in something like their real position and })ro|)orti()n entitle their makers to credit. I now |)roceed to chronicle some of these conjectures which held sway for ujore than two centuries, and which bear more or less directly on north-western ge()gi'a[)hy, and are often entertain- ingly supplemented by falsehood. I shall treat the subject so far as possible chronologically. There were few if any of the voyages to America before 1550 the object of which was not to tind among other things a passage by water to India; but theie is no need of recapitulating these voyages for the sake of prosentiny; their common object and failure. For DIVERS CONJFXTURES. 35 tills oiilKJit period of maritime discovery, I have to notice tor the most \tart only such expeditions as Ciniiislied material for later argument and conjecture, such as not only sought the strait but found it, or at least sonu'tliing that might be deemed an indication of its existence. The Northmen, the earliest in the field of American discoveries, did not stop to theorize about the western lands, m)r did they care, so far as the records show, whether they belonged to Asia or Africa. They were bent on adventure, conquest, and settlement, and sought no passage to the Spice Islands of 1 he south or the cities of the Grand Khan. Doubt- less hud their adventures been known to the cosmog- raplurs they would have furnished much food for theory; but the records were for the time lost, and the .sv/f/^/.s therefore have no bearing on the Northern ]\[ysteiy. Of Columbus and his vagaries about the teirestriid paradise in South America as well of his associates and their ex[>lorations in southern parts enough has been said elsewhenr, likewise of the pre- C'oliniibiaii theories of wonderful islands in the Atlan- tic. F(»r these and other matters that have indirect bearing on the jiresent subject, I refer the reader to the tiist volume of the Ilisfori/ of Cent red America. There exist no contem}torary narratives of the voy- ages of the Cabots to northern parts of the continent in l4!l7-8, and the frajifments of a later date are as contradictory respecting the navigators' exact ideas as about the exact regions visited. "And understand- ing by reason of the S|thei'('," wrote Sebastian Cabot, "that if 1 should saile by way of the Northwest, I should by a shorter tract conu; into India. . .not thinking to tinde any other land then that of Cathay, and iVmii thencn to turne toward India, but after ct-r- taiiu- (iayes I found that the land ramie towai-ds the North, which was to mee a great displeasure"' — -why ' ffal-hiii/.'s F o//., iii. 4-11, with several ftccounts. For further references on the VDv.igus mentioned in this cluipter see licogriiphical Sumnmry, iu Jhtt. Cent. A/ii., vol. i, ehap. i. 30 THE NORTHERX ]SIY.STI:RY. is not apparent; but ho wrote at a time when it was clear that a new continent had been diseovered, !^[oreover, ho wrote to Kaniusio that in latitude G7' :'.0', "finding still tlio open 8ca without any manner of impediment, hoe thought vei'ily by that way to haue ]);issed on still the way to Catliaio, which is in the i'^ast, and wouldo haue done it, it' the mutinie of the shipmaster and niarriners had not rebelled."^ At first liiere was no doubt that Cabot had reached Asia, or later that he had discovered a strait leading to that coast. The expeditions of the Cortereals in 1500-2 were like the preceding, in that they are not descrilxMl l)y contemporary documents; but so nuich the better for later theorists. 1 do not sup])ose that citiier Cabot or Cortereal really sought a 'strait,' but only a ])as- sage, not doubting that they wei-e on the Asiatic main; but in tlieir reports there v/as no lack of ma- terial for a strait when needed — instance Coi'toreal's Itio Xevado, where his progr-ess was impeded by ice. In later times Cortereal was credited by many with not only having discovered the strait, but with having named it. I am not certain who originated this theory ; but we are told by Forstcr, Fleurieu, Burney, Hum- boldt,'* and others, that Cortereal found tlie strait, named it Anian, in honor of certain brothers with him, and was lost when returninf*' to utilize his discovery. The authorities differ as to whether there were two brothers or three, whether the name was that of tlie family or of one of the brothers, possibly that of (Jortereal's own brother; and they likewise differ respecting the identity of the strait with Hudson Bay or 8t Lawrence River. It does not matter, however; none of the earliest writers mention the circumstance. '^Jlfdlinil'a Divert Votj., 2">, from Rimupio. A letter nunouncin.t,' Cabot's return crtjdits liim witli 'Imving likewise di.scovcri'il the seven cities, four liiiiiilnMl leagues from Kngland, on the western |)iissii;.'<\ ;' aiul still anotlier Kiys thiit he hud visited ' the territory of the (Jrand Cham.' liniant's Hist. U. .v., i. i:!4. ^ I'hriiicr'n Hist. Foy., 400; Fb'uriev, \n. Mnrrhaml, I'lj/., i, vi. ; fiiinici/\i J)iMC(it!. Utiiifh Sen, i. .'">; Ihimhiihll, K^xai Pol.. .'UD. 'H prit son nom d'uii dca frercs cnilMirij^uda sur le vaisscau de Caspar de Corteral.' EARLY maps;. n? It is tolerably certain that the strait of Aniaii was not named tor more tlian iii'ty years after Corteivals V(ty- age, and I shall notice the matter again in (hie timi-.* Joliami Ruyseh in l.")()8 printed the tirst map that sliowed any part of the New World, whieh he [)ul)lished in l*tolemy's geography. It represents the mystery KtYwcii'd ^Lvr, 1508. of the strait in an early stage of development. As yr.t there was nothing to impede navigation to India. It is said tliat the Ptolemy ma}) of loll sej)arates llie Terra Corterealis from the Asiatic main. To (|U()te from an earlier volume of this series: "As long as the new lands were Ix^heved to be a part of Asia, tlie maps bore some resendjlanee to the actual coun- tries intended to be rei)i-esented, but from the iirst dawning of an idea of separate lands we shall sec the greatest confusion in tlie efforts of niap-makei's to depict the New World." Ponce de Leon's famous search for the fountain of youth in Florida might in * The London 0»f(/•^,•/// /,Vr;'H-, xvi. I.")4, tliinks tliat rortorcal, cnteriii.; Hudson Hay, tlum^'lit it \)iut of an opening on the I'acilic ahrady knov. ii (iM'forc l.">(K):) as the strait of Anian; and the Xorth Ami:r''riui Urncir, Janu- ary Isyj, lib, ducnw this not very brilliuut theory more probable than any I I 38 THE NORTHERN MYSTERY. a certain sense be cited as a phase of the present sub- ject; but this bubble soon burst, and so fur as I know had no effect on the vaj^aries of Jater days. The map in Stobuicza's Ptolcuii/ of 1512 is said to show the New World as a continuous coast up to 50°. A Portu- j:fuese chart of about 1518 exhibits for the first time the Pacific divided by an isthmus from the Atlantic; leaving s[)aces between the (xulf of Mexico and Lab- rador wliere the coast may not be continuous. "^ Schoner's globe of 15'J0 exjdains itself It was doubtless founded on mere conjecture, though in cer- tain lespects an approximation to accuracy, for as if j4 "A 0, a a vn. j-ERR*) Cflll'"'''' DC CUMfi T /^ (i'Q :__ S^ Cb O v^'^r^^-.c^^, hjto . _. ^_''»;y i\~ I— t, -J ""'""lOX-TlRRA \ SciioxEu's Glohk, lo'iO. yet there were no discoveries to suggest a broad sheet of water north-west of the newly found lands,* In the earliest land expeditions from Mexico to the * See IliM. Cent. Am., i. 133. * III lin/iiiif'H Ilisl. U. S., i. 140, it is stated tliat the Rio Jordan visited by Aillon in 1.V20 on the Carolina coast Wiis souyht as the 'sacred' Jordan of biblical tradition ! KSTliVAX GOMEZ. H iH'ar north-Avost of Mithoacau and Coliiim in 1522-4 niiu'li intorest was oxcitod by rc[K)rts of a [iiovincu of Ci^'uatan, or of an island sonio ton days' jouinoy be- yond, inliabitc'd by women, liko Amazons, who bcin'j^ visited at intiTvals by men from the mainlanhical relation of the New World to Asia.'* 1 find nothing in his re})ort to justify sui-h a conclu- sion, tiiough the name ' ^lar de Verrazano' is a})j)lied to the wistei-n waters (jii a later map. Estevan (lomez sou^^.it the strait in l;')2o between Florida and Xt'wfoundland:'-' and about his retui'n an amusing story has often been repeated. He brought hoi.ie a cargo of csc/ai'os, or slaves; and an enthusiast in the cause of discovery, failiuLT to catch the first syllable, luslucl to court with the news that Gomez had at last found the passage to the Spice Islands, having rc- turned with a cargo of claros, or cloves! Tlu; truth was soon known, nnich to the amusement of the court and the messenger's discomfiture. In those days the Spaniards little thought of sailing to tlie extreme ' ' Y Rsiinisino me tmjo Kelacion , \ cnu' en cicrtos tit'iiipo van de la Tierra-Finne ilomlirea, eon i(>8 «|iiaUs liaii atcsd, y las (|ui' rjiiedan ])refiadas, si ))arcn Mii;,'fi-i's la j.'uarilan; y si Mrcs his eclian de su Conipania.' L'oHiJs, Jtist. S. Espai'iu, 34'J-oO; Jj.aiinioiif. J/ixl. Mil/,., MS., «•_». "Ilriiunl'x IJhi. U. S., i. ISO. " ' It is also deeiei'd, that one Stcplianiia Ooniez, ■\vlio also himselfe ia a Bkillfull Xaui;,'at()r, shall goe another way, where liy betweene tlu' IJaoealaos, and Florida, loaf,' since our countries, he saith, he will linde out a wuye to Catuiu: one ouely sliijjpe called a Caniuell is furnished foi- him, and he 'shall liaue no other thing in charge, then to search out whether any jiassage to the gieat Chan, from out the diners windings, and vast compassings of thiu our Oceuu, were to be founde.' I'iUr Mufti/r, dec. vi. cap. x. THE NOIITHKRN MYSTERY. i ' Jiortli;'" hilt l{(>lK'rt Tlionic in ir)*J7 ur'j;'('l(', (hero is MO dotd)ti! Imt saylinu" Xorlhwardo Jiiid passiii''- tho pole, dcsccndiiiiL;' to tlu; ecjuiiiot'tiall l.viic, wee sliall Iiitti; these Ihiiides, and it shoulR, hoth mannscript and print, were of tlio .same type, representing North America abovy ^lexico '" Peter ^fartyr, dec. vii. cap. v., nlmiit tliia time wrote: ' Rut oonceminjj the 8ti'ayf,'ht tliere is little hope;' ami e.>i])icially had he no faith in north- ern pnisiHftM. 'To the south! To the soutli ! For the f^reut and exceeding; riclies of the /Kiniinoetiall, tliey that seeke riches must not goe v.uto the cold and fn)zen north.' See JSri/aii/'n Hint. C. S., i. I'K). " TUoriit'a Book, iu Uukhiyl'n Diitid Toi/., 4S; Jd., Voy., i. "Jl^-'JO. OUZMAX AXl) .inri'A'KZ. 41 as a naiiow codtiiu-iit fxti'iuliii;^' iioi-th-i'ustward to tlm ii'ui(»ii dl" ( inculaiid, scparutoil from ii|)|ifr linli.i l>y a witk' strait, iiiid nearly severed just ulntvt; l-'lurida l)V 11 l)r(>ad inlet I'roin the west. The oriiiiii ul it was |)rohahly loimded on certain Uiijinlihsht'd i'i'|»orts of Wiri'a/ano or ( lo- nwA. Orontius Fine, in his niaj* of If).'}!, adhered to J.'UIM< ^ tn^/,'>b ^-^'^ the oriL,''inal idea tliat the new i-c^ions were part of A^ia, disi\';,ardinL,f the conjectures of Ids contempo- raries, which, if accidentally more accurate tiian his, wei'c mucli less consistent with inal knowled^'j. Nuho de (jruzmaii's conijuest in l."»:5i, e\teiidin<^ to Sinaloa. did much to discredit earlier tales of a pi'o\ince of Ama/oiss; hut the discovery of a pLu-o cailcil Aztatlan seemed to fui-nish some conlirma- tion of su|>postMl ahorin'inal traditions ahout an Aztec min'ration from the nortli-west. In 1 ."):!;{ the efforts of Cortes ^^•el•e so far succ(!ssful that Jimenez, one of his connnaiidei's, discovei'ed land which was supposed to he an island and named Santa Cruz. Had Jimeticz heen able to explore more fully the eastern coast of his new land, the theory would doubtless have been on his return that he had reached a part of the 1 ! .Ill 4a THE NORTHERN MYSTERY. Asiatic continent, and had entered the mouth of the loiijjf Houi^Iit strait. Tliis would liave been natural, and niii^ht have had nuich influence in shapini^ later conjectuie and ex]»loration; but Cortes was intent not only on finding' the strait but rich islands on the way to India; therefore he was willinj^ to acce]»t the new discovery as an island, even after a fruitless at- tempt at occuj)ation and Hne()pled with black women, without any men amon<>; then., because thev were acx'Ustomed to live after the fashion of Ama/ons," Therefore the new island was ap|)r(t})riately named C^difornia, because of its position, its sui)poseJ wealth, and of the Amazons of nati\ e tradition. At the same time J)ie_i;-o de (iuzman made a trip fiom C uliacan to the Vacpii, to verity the re[)orts of the Seven Cities, and oi' a river four or live l.;aLfUes wide Howiii!^ into the South Sea, and havinjf an iron chain stretched across its uioutli to prevent boats juMH'tratiniLf tlie inti'rior." On the eastern coast J;i(ijurs ( 'artier wastjiiestioninin" the Indians of Canada al)out the w«sl. Jieferriim' doubtless to the yfreat lakes, they sai<[ tliat from the upper St Lawrence there " was IVtsh watt r, which went so I'arre uj)wards, that tiny had never lieard of any man who had ujone to the liead of it, and tliat tliere is no otl.er })assane but with snuill boatcs." Less intelligible, but e(|ually interestintj to the hearers, was their statement that fr(»m JIochela'>;a w.'s but a month's iourne" to a country of cinnamon and cloves.'^ Agnese's maj) of ^- (litziiinii, SfiiHiiiIa lii'l, AiiiUi. .10.1. The Scvon fitios may lutvo 1k' > an aftortliduulit lit tlie uutluit', an lio ilid nut wiiti' until HOiiie ycur.-i uft ;' tho evtints rlcsiTilx'd. ^■^ Ji'iiinutio, Viajiji, iii. 433; lluk!it)jl'» Vuij., iii. I'lS. VACA, SOTO, AXD ?aZA. » lo^G and a Portuguese map of the same year are iitially the same as tlie Ptt>lemy map ol' 1530, rth-western coast hue is for the esse except that the ik most ]xirt left vaj^ue and iiideiinitii, hvu\e houses,"** referrinjjf of course to the l*ueb]o towns. lUit this in connection with other I'umors of nurthci-n towns was sutKcient to kindle anew tlie ilame of adventure. While Soto was wanderin^j in tlM> Id'oad Mis.sissippi V'alley without contriitutiui^ anything' of importance to the marvels of the \ortheru ^lystery, Friar Miiicos de Xiza started northward I'rom C'ulia- ean, and went so iar pioliabiy as to come actually in si,L;'ht of on(-' of the towns at C'il)ola, oi* Zuhi; thou<^"ii Jlernan Coitc's and others reij^arded Niza's narrative as |»ure fiction. Friar ^larcos, however, jirefcrred I'alscliood or ufross cxaLTiJferation to the truth. He* ]»i'oved to his u s, ilislaction that California was an island, and that then- wei'o thirty otlu'rs i'i<'h in ]>carls; \\c 1 ;),rned that the coast turned abruptly to the west in iJi)"; he learned luuch of a countiy richer d and niore populous tlian 3l('\ic«», mcUKhi M» Ciboh 'ro*:ontciK', Abacus, and Maiiita: he saw Irniii a dis- tance Cibola, a town lar a ])eninsula; explored both shores of the gulf; discovered the Colorado in two places; exposed nearly all Xiza's misre])resentations; jiroclaimed in their ti'ue character the l*ueblo towns oi" modern Arizona and New Mexico; discovered the liio (ii'ande del Noiti-; and even e\j»lored the great ])laliis f;tr to the nortli-east. Indi'cd they made known substantially all tliat was to be known j'or ovi-r two centuries of nortliern geogra[)iiy; and they practi- cally coiivlnciid S])aln that in this region there was no tield i(»r coufjuests similar to those of Cortes and ]*i/,aiTo, though there might be a strait above the fortieth jiarallel. \vt es|)eclally In the I'ecords of Corouado's adve'U- tures wei'e left tlu^ seeds of mystery and perplexity. So fully was exploration suspiMided that the regions described became semi-mvtliical. Jt was not rare in lat vr years for I'ven S|)anlards to discuss the genei'a I topic of northern gvogra[>liy, without any ai)[)areut '"A'l'.ii, UvKeubrimkiito de las Skfc Citulail(S. QnVmA AXD TOTOXTEAO. # '"-'• • '■ 'i"v.-' .st,va„,;; n ," • ii";; J'"'^ ,«■'■- "»<■, '•'"■ Ifi" .1.1 N ,■ i,7 '^"'"■""'" '■■"in Tiun,,..;, , ""/';' •••"'™ti"M.s; ,„!.i , , : „.',,'',;:""" '/.' ""-• >•'■- '"I Ik'.'!. „,..st lil„,,il „,•,,„,•' '"" 'wliv,.. wl,0 '■IS .l,.V..|,fi„„. „,„ , ' ' ■ "I" . .,,t|„„, ,.„„(;.ssi,,r ••'>'","•"' "'-cunt. T ,;.,,. '"",''" '"" '"■"",' '■-/'"■•-iM.-. as ),i eJ '1, ' '"1.'"''"" "■""•■"•.. was "■■■'," ^■""' <" (l„. (;,,,', '//'■■'''■"■■'». «l..,r,,,|lv „ , ,t :;7'''''''''''''-'ii'm; :;t''n" '■'''' ''■■'' "'■'''••■«■' "I ,.i„A, ,., „ '•■"''■■'^' ■■""' s. Niza's Totonteac, as the natives told (yoronado, was a small town on a lake; and this mythic town, as we shall see, loni;' lived under one name or another, ^loreover, several items of really later origin were .sometimes dated hack to Coronado's time. Before Coronado undertook his exploration Niza's rmine the location of Cibola, and ac- cordinglv authoiized Vi('er((V jNfendoza to continue 1 us exp •lc(rati tl Kdis r((r the nrovmce 1» 19 inioa's V((yage left some doubt V\'hether there was a strait just ahove Santa Cruz s( parating the southern en or nud'i? 'old men' d tl usually accidupanied tiu^ ('((mmander m Jus v((yag(^ on (lie Ctdoiado, mIio did not fail to impose upon tlio ^^Onmnrn. Ilht. furf. . L'Tt>-4. It is repeated by Salmeron and other WTit^rs, vitli viuiiiiirt rmlwilisliiiHiits. ''•'y'roir^o Ud Atanjiii:^, aOO-408. ^Ill RUSCKLLI A\D MUXSTER. 47 crodiility of his visitor, tdliii'LC lilni ainoiijjf otlier tbiiigs of an old woman, (iuatazaca, who lived without cat- iniif, oil a laki!, or iiuar the sea, or hy a mountain, in the country whore copjjer hells were made. Cabrillo, be- yond heai-ini;- nunors of white men in the interior, contrihuted notliinif to mythic annals; in fact liis ex]>loration was well ni^^h I'or^^otten in later years. Most |)i(»miiKiitly to he remend)i'ied in connection with Cahrillo was that he is said to liave discovered and named Ca|)e Meutlocino — whii-h he certainly did not. Two maps of 1 a-lO and ir)4I repres(>nt very accu- ijitely tin; |)eninsula coasts, the ;inll", and the r^^aiidand shore; but tliey Icjave the interior a blank,'-'" lluscelli's m;i|» of 1544, which 1 i-eproduce, as indi-t'd. Xoj ..iilv ;iiv \.-\v Sjiain iin I Florida I'epresenti'd as j)art of Asia, but l>acala(»s IS ]»ictiuvd as a i-entral land coiinectod by narrow isthnuises on th(> west with Asia and (.nthe ea.st with JMir(H)e. A vt>ya<^e to India uccordinj^^ to thid •"Sw iniii>s in II!»t. Cent. Am., i. 1J3-4. 48 THE NORTHERN MY.STERY. map would luivu been attended with many diliiculties. Tlio niajt ill Munster's Co.siiiojjntjJtio of \i)A^) is, as^ / iNniA \ SVl'KKlOn ') Tr.i;l;A :.i.* \ AMKIIICAMKU BHAHt?. V MrNsTi;ji"s M.\r, I'A'). Avill ))(• observed, a eopy ol' ilie Pfo/ciui/ of In.'lO, so jar as the southci'ii ]iarts ol" T<-iiiistitaii, I'lnijda, I"'i-an- elsea, and ('orteical are coiiceriH'il ; hut it extent.-; Ihrtlier north. IJacalaos, or Xewioundland, joins Jlurope as in IviisfH'Ui's niap. hut it rracli-'s Tar to the wi'si, as does u|>jter India Inr to the east, until a strait is l»Tt Ijv'tweeii thcin, into tlie northern ocr.iii; wliilt' south of these lands is 'the st raii ,' w it h the insei iptioii, "Per lioe {'wAh iti-r j)alet ad Mohiea^.' As we ])ass 1.550 to recMrt'd the use that was made of the hrilliant (hseovcrics aehit \e'd itefon t'.ii dale, \\ ith the va^•aries fonn(K'd on tliosf n new ones, real or fictitious, we find in Uaiiinsio"-. iiiai) of iaad'" the tirst printed repr< -entation <»f Xorth America as it was Jictualiy known; that is, with iii tl. Tin- lir-it KJition nf ilun %iihnin- V'ii.s in ir).Vi. 1 am not curtuiu tliut it oimtaiiu'il tlu i^uiu iiiajt; but ii iimkca no iliUcnuce. Also ill AVti*e««' Solen, pi. i\ no. 11. M RAMUSIO AND HOMEM. m Fiaii- jct'ms ir t<» r.iitil ■I all ; I tllL! made ilalr, aMii ')t" , with hlaiik iiitt;- . volume rior a vapfuo reconl of Coronado's i-xpcditioii is g-Iven, hut with a curious transposition of east for west iu the l(K'atioii of CiI)ola, Tigucx, Cicuic, and Quivira respectively, all, it would seem, for the purpose of folic >win.-;-. liAMrsio'a Map, l.wO. was on tile western coast. And there Quivira ro- nuiincd lor many years. Tlu Sierra Nevada has het-n named hy Cahrillo. (California, not named, is a j)e- niiisuhi of pecidiar shape not <- ipied hy later map- makers; and heyond the limits of my <'<>pyi s«>me .'")()' West of California, lieis an island, (iiapam. There is no exjiressed ojtinion nspectiui;' the strait. In its main features this luap is of a tyjie often rej)eated. 1"he manuscrii»t map of the l*ortu.,aie.>e Honn'm, made in 1 .">.') M,'-'^ ilitfers widily in tin* north-west. Jl<»mem adh'.res to the old idea that North America is a very nair(»w continent, ext endinii- from south-west to north-east; and he ij;ives tlje naviy^ator his choice '•'- Taken from A''i/i/'« Hint. Ihncov., 377. Most uaiiics omittcil, as liuving iiu bcuriu'; on tliio Huiiji'Lt. I I'lT. h' W. CoAiT, Vot. I. 4 M) THE NORTHERN MYSTERY. of many ways by water to the Piieifie. As Kolil says: "Our author a])))cars to liavu had a t^rrat passion for islands and a stronj( belief in north-west - *•'!%" A(i liKL r. r, r' 'W'-'Vi'- -^, ''■> 7 —< :Lj^ "^/l ':p^ "^3- ' SKA DE FLORIDA V /^V^ **>l"l fi litis orviilii IfoMKM's Mai-, 1558. passniifes from tl)e Atlantic to the western oecan. Jlc cuts n|i tbe whole of iiDi'thiM-n New !^'r;in('(^ into lar^'f islands, and coiixcrts srxcral biMiiches of tho St I^Mwrence into sea-channels and strails. IK; puts down a strait in eveiy ])la('e Avhere Cartiei', in his report, had said he had l(»oked for one, even if hethd not lind it." From va^'ue rumois of the ufreat lakes and Hudson iJay ln' makers the ;L;r»'at UKirc Ic/nird- 'iiKifi'ifiii a name loi- the western ocean, the origin of Avhich is not known.-'' About laGO-;") some few nun in Spain became {^I'eady interested in lindiiiLj the northern j)assa'.^e, tiioui;h they did not succeed in arousing' the court to actual endeavor, l^rominent amonL? these was tho ■■'■' ]];nimsio, IVcf/;/'. iii. rt. Miitinj,' in 155:?, sccins to linvc liail liko i.liMH of ("aiiiiil.i. • Fi'iiiii wliicli |('iiilicr"s icjiorts| «i^ iirc nut yit ilciir \\ lil,iitl»; or wlu'tiuT it is jiossililo to pi l>y tlio.so [lart.-i to tl\o proviucc of Cutliiiy, us Stljustiuu Cabot wioto mc many ywira ago.' Mi:\i:XI>KZ AND rUDAN'IlTA. St A(l»l;Mitatli> l\>(li'(. ]\fc'm'ii(li'Z(lo Avilcs, famous in tlio annals of rioiida. Jlo wrote scvoral |»a]u'i-s on the suliject.and in oni' of tlieni stated that in l.').')1 he liad hron'j,ht IVom Xew S|>ain a man who elaimed to have heen on a Fi-enrli shi]), wliieh had sailed I'oui- hnndred jean'ues on a A/v." dr nun' running' inland iVom Xew- i'onndland t)V.ai-d Florida. The shij/s crew then landed ;unl a ((tiaiter of a lea'^'ue distant loimd anotlui eliainn 1, on v/liieh tliev hnih lour small vess'l, aiK I sail.d allot hei' three; hnndred len^^nes, to latitude 4H\ i\ort!i ol' ^[exieo, near the mini's of Zaeateeas and San ^lai'tin, whei-e were lar^'e and |»ros|ten)ns setil-iiients. 'I'hf channel led to the South Sea, towaivl China and the Miihiccas, thon.L;h it was not Tollowed so lar. The Fri'-.i'li .'hip on her return was wrecked, hut the nar- rator v.iih souk; others was saved hy a l*ortu;jfUi'SC vi'ssel. 'I'his was jierhaps tin; iirst deiinite narrative of a fictitious V(»va<»i? throii'di the famons sti'ait. The slor\' was often I'coea ted; an( I other like trii )s Were inventt'd, a ; \\i' shall sei'. jNTc^nendez douhtless told the stoi V in 1,^0(1(1 faith, hi'lii'^' deceived hy an adveu- tmvi' v.ho took advantaL;"e of his i nt husiii--m.'' Our of the Spaniai'ds wJio like Mi'iieiidiz was in- terested in the |ti'ohlem was ^Vndres de I'rdaneta, friar and naviij^atoi*, the man wIm) first cro.ssed tlu) Paciiic eastward and discovercnl the iiorthei'ii route. Unlanetii was ac(]uainted with ^Ei-nendez, and know- '■' Xfiritri'' '<', V'lvifs Ajiiii^rij'oii, W); lit., in Sufil if .U'.v., I'/'/'/c, x\xi';.-xl. It w;; 1 i;» l.")li'> lluit >rincliikz toll t!ii< ^Imy ; Imt, lir liml iipiMrriilly ]>riMciitfil aiiu'iiioriiil 1)11 tlu'iKissii'^i'MHiu niter |."i.it, Niivaiictc, in tin ■ I "';/' ■•• .1; "■ /f S.iiita. Maria, ill latiUlcle 117 , \\iiiill ';;i)e< tiiwaiils tlie W. N. W.. ami it i< nu^jiec teil tli:.t it g'les ti till' Siiiilli Sea; aiicl tlie linliaiis ivill many eiiw s like tliu.e of New Sjiaiii lliiiilaliiesl, wliieli ( 'iiroiiailu I'uuiiil in tim-ie |i'aiii.-i, aiul eariy the hiiles i'l eall'ies t.) ^ell tit the French lit New t'liiindlaiul ;' iiihI in a siiliieiiueiit y it to the South Sea, liiit tin y have pme l.y it over .".(HI h'a,mie-i W. N. W.. stiirtilii,' at 4'J anil leaeiiiii;,' 4'> , ."iKt lea:.'nes north of Mexieo, anil not ovi'r KM) lea;,'iies from tho .^oiiih Sea or from ('liina itself.' Aeosta, lli-'l. Xai. Im/., l.VJ-.'l, allmles t'» Ml lieniUv. iiml hi.s imsilive lieliif ill II ntliiit. ' I'.l A'lekllltailo I'eilro Meleile^ liolire tiV plutiou y excehti! ea la mar Alinuuiia, str eosa ciei'ta, cl uucr K-Htiveho,' Ml THE XORTIIERX MYSTKRY. in,i( Jill the current rujiorts aliout the strait and its discovery by lort'i^ner.s, dcomctl it of tlio utmost iui- portaiKv for Sjjaiii to ascerta'ii tli'^ truth. In a docu- iiiont i»f loGO \ui wroto of tlio rciJoit, current in Ni'W Spain al)out the French findinuf a [)assaiL!^o from N\;\v- foundhmd, l)eufinnin«^ above hititudo 70", extendiniuf west and soutli-west to below 50°, which atlorded open sea navi<;ation to China; also that on theii' re- turn they had foun bee farre from thence, and to l)ee situate within the lan, repciituil briully l)y uthui- writers, l-'orster givi's III) iiuthorities. -' ll'diuuU'H True and Last DlscoHcrie of Florida, iu Ifuklui/t'8 Dir. Toy., 102-3. ABRAHAM ORTELIUS. 53 n ncans Vs wo alk'd (»t to the riR'V I well )ates, Kiuii- |i:i, in (I his |vi.-xli. l'"or8tcr [. Vol/., associates jjcrsuadod tliomsolvos without any known rcasDM that they had found a grand and I'icli country, a second Mexico; and ho it was represented in the reports under th(! name of Cojjala. It is ))robahle, however, tliat this was dehl)erate deception rather than the enthusiasm of exijlorers.'^" I reproduce the map puhhslied by the famous geop^rapher Abraham Ortelius in liis Thcdtnim ( hhis Terrarum of 1574.'-'" It will be seen that this map combines the leading features of the Kannisio and I'tolemy-Munster ma[)s. From the latter we have tile strait, and even the indentation, though now re- duced to a small bay and not almost severing Canada from Florida, while as in llamusio wo have a bioad stretch of continent, and an attenipt to show tlio discoveries of Niza, Coronado, Ulloa, Alarcon, and slightly those of Cabrillo. The topographical features of the peninsula and gulf of California are nuich im- iirovod, also the course of the rivers Howing into the latter. Totonteac and other names are atldod from Niza, and those of Tuchano and Tolm from unknown sources. The Gomara-Kamusio transposition of tho Cil)(tla-Quivira towns is continued ; and Tiguex, with its river, really tho Kio (Grande del Norte of New ^Mexico, is transferred, as Cicuic (Pecos) and Quivira had been before, to the coast of what was later I'pper California. Finally the kingdom of Anian appears on tho same coast above GO'. This name of Anian, as ap})lied to a north-western kingdom and to the famcjus strait, apparently origi- nated during this decade of loTO-SO, but under cir- cumstances that have never biicn ex[)lained. There was a theory, of which, however, I hear ncjthinir be- ^'fliarra, Rihirion, .Vj.l-lit. '•"•'Ort'lirii, Tlnatrvm Orhis Trrrarrm, Antwerp, ir>74, gr. folio, text, 0!). Tlure \\>-vo curlier editions of I.ITO luul l.'iTl; and later ones, in (litleront lan«ii.i},'e> of l.l.SS, ir.!).'., l.VW, KiO.I, l(iO(i, and KWl ; also a Thy the early travellers and geographers."*" Anaiii, we learn that "An excellent learned man of I'oitiiigale, of singuler grauety, autlioritie, and expe- lit'iice, tolde nice [llakluyt, in 1582] very lately that one Aims Cortciral, [this being editorially explained as a form of ' loao,' 'loamies,' or 'John,'] Captayne of the vie of Tercera, about the yeere 1574, which is not aboue eight yeeres })ast, sent a Ship])c to discouer the X(H-thwest passage of America, and that the same ship[)e arriuing on the coast of the saide America, in lift it! (.yghte degrees of latitude, founde a great entrance exceeding deepe and broade without all inq)ediment ot" ice, into which they passed aboue twentie leagues, and founde it alwaies to trende towarde the South, the lande lying lowe and plaine on eyther side: And the}- perswaded them selues verely that there was a way oi)en into the south sea."^^ Hei'e, then, we ha\'e as elements the old po})ular belief in a strait, tlie Asiatic ])rovincc of Ania, the 'three brothers/ the voyages of the Cabots and Cortereals, the fact that there were several 'brothers' of both families, the name Amis Cortcreal, the reneM'ed intei-est in the subject at this junctiu'e, and the circulation of the name on Ortelius' nuijis. Out of all this was evolved the name strait of Anian, which early in the seventeenth cen- "I Iinvo not found nny mention of Ania iii niiy (Incunicnt or map of earlier date tliaii that of wliicli I am now trcatin,' ; luit IJai my, ///-/. l)i.i,-nr. Si'Ulh Si(ty i. .■>, iiiijilio.H tliat Mareo I'olo nieulion.-t the jiroviiiee. So , says i\\i\t Ani is Japanese for ' brother,' and suggests tliat the name may have originated from tlie Portuguese having told the Ja|i!iiieso of the discovery by tlie 'brothers.' In l'o/«;/r;< «/( A'o/v/, llcrw'il, f, Ehsii'i, 82, we read : 'On parla du Golfe iVAnkin, h travers ducjuel ies .la])()nois et eeux du Pais do Jcaxo assuroiont (ju'il y avoit un passage jusiju'i'v la Mer do Tartu lie. On alia au delii du Jajion, jus(iu"au 50'. On eutra dans iin Detroit fort commode, pour aller dans I'Oceau Septentrional.' '■^■^ Ayiano, i'otoiwuravhia, Auvers, l.")".!. The work is chielly theoretical; the description of the Aew World, fol. 34, seeiaa to be taken from Goniara ; the maps are on fols. 3'2, 3.1. ^' in Gillivrl'x JJinroitrsc of n Discoiieric /or a vrir Pa/iKctrjc to Cafain, London, lo'ii, is u map 'in which all inipedimuuts in the way of the north-west pas- t^; I LADRILLERO AND GILBERT. 57 light 1. At dr the ' 1570 iw his trans- doubt, )viiice, i Alius 3 strait nus, as 1575,"^ ► copy, resuiits jtached at may larger es fhe- inciit a .morica, d sepa- i island incut.'" the name tcieuct's to [licst maps I'olo, per- |)r'b map of ti it) otten le name oa )iot impos- tho iiiime -IJrun, iu Ltlicr,' ami [Hii luivin.^ an Soril, luiiuol k'S p'utra dans tcorctical ; Cjoiuai'a ; I, London, [west pas- In 1584 one Juan Fernandez de Ladrillcro made a sworn statement in Spain respecting the strait, of whose existence some eight hundred leagues north of Com[)Ostela ho was sure. He was over sixty years of a<'c, liad oone to America in 1535, and had navigated those waters as a pilot for twenty-eiglit years. The strait was said to lead to where the EngHsh caught codlish, or bacalaos; and ho with others once at- temi^ted to find it. Had lie been alone with one vessel lie would have gone on aiul made the discovery; but contrary winds and damages to the accompanying sliii)s Ibrced tliein to turn back, and they remained in the ( alifornias until the vessels were ordered to join Villalobos' ex[)edition to the Mc^luccas.^" A Portuguese had written to inform the emperor that he had been imjiiisoned by the king of Portugal because he had found the strait, and [)assed through it from one ocean to the other. The emperor notified the viceroy, and the latter therefore sent out the expedition which Ladiillero accompanied. He liad heard other pilots talk of this matter; and especially an Englishman who had sailed with him twenty-seven years, and who with his countrymen had entered the strait while fishing for liacalaos. Now therefore in 1574, when the English and French were believ^ed to be entering the South Sea by this codfish canal, Ladrillero, notwith- standing his age and infirmities, was willing to go and fortify the strait for Spain. '"^ Xaturally enough an old ]>ilot, desiring a position of honor and profit, found something in his store of old recollections to support a growing theory, and counted on his expe- rience in American waters to give him preferment. Sir Humphrey Gilbert's ideas on our general topic were set forth in 157G in A DiscoL'i\se Of a Discoucrie f'a;:iO arc clcare.l away in a most summary maimer.' Introd. to Hakluyt Soc. reprint of J/dl.liiyt'n Div. Voi/., I, li. " ' y illaloljos' voyage was in l.">42, vliich fixes the date of Ladrillero's txploitd. It is not unlikely tliat he may liave l.ceii with Alarcon or Ulloa. •" Ladrillero's Mcniurinl in the Spanish archives, consulted by XaviUTcte, Sutil 1/ Mt-c, xlii.-iii.; Viu'jca A^kjc, 41. u THE XORTIIERN MYSTERY. ■ I! for a new Passac/e to Cutaia.^^ His first chapter was clcsiiL?ii(jd "to prone l)y autlioritie a passa<:>'e to be on the North side of America, to goc to Cataia, Cliiiia, and to the East India," the authority beini^' that of the ancient writers hke Plato and Aristotle toucliini^ the old Atlantis, contirnied by all the 'best nK)deru geoi^ra})hers' like Frisius, Apianus, Munster, and the rest, to the effect that America is an island. " Then, if when no ])art of the sayd Atlantis was oppressed by water, ant! earthquake, the ccuists round about the same w^ere nauigable: a farre greater hope now I'e- maineth of the same by tlie Northwest, seeing the most part of it was, since that time, swallowed up with water, which could not utterly take away the olde deeps and chanels, but rather, be an occasion of the inlarging of the olde, and also an inforcing of a great many new: why then should now we doubt?. . . seeing that Atlantis now called America was eucr knowen to be an Hand, and in those daycs nauigable round about, wliicJi by accesse of more water could not be diminished," The writer adds: "What moued those learned men to atHrme thus much, I know not, or to what ende so many and sundry trauellers of both ages huue allowed the same: But I coniecture that they would neuer haue so constantly afiirmed, or noti- fied their opinions therein to the world, if they had not had great good cause, and many probable reasons, to haue led them thereunto 1" The second chapter is ' to prooue by reason' what had been so clearly established by 'authoritie' in the first. The reason was threefold: 1st, the deepening of the waters in the nortli, whereas "all seas are mniu- tained by the abundance of water, ^o that the neerer the ende any Iliuer, ]3ay, or llauen is, the shallower it wareth;" 2d, the facts that no intercourse is known between Asiatic and American peo[)les, that Paulus Yenetus travelling in Cathay never reached •" Gilbert's DiicoiDve, London, 1570; reprinted in IlaldinjC.t Voy., iii. 11-24. A DISCOVRSE OF A DISCOUERIE. 69 r was bo on ?hina, Kit oi' ichiug K)deni id the Then, ircssed )ut the ow re- Q'y the red up av the sion ot QO" of a ibt?... IS cucr iiigable •r could inoued low not, of both re that noti- oy had casons, [i what in the [jpcning iiiniii- iieercr ilU)Nver Lirt^e is Is, that leached ■i. ■m, 11-24. America, any more tlian Coronado, "wlio trauollod the Nt.^':iii by oxertiu;,' all his iiiiremuty ami loaniiu;^ to ilenouin.'o tlic seheme, to kIjow that the old writers were in erroi', or i^nioraiit on thu subject, tliat there was no strait, that it was iee-bloeked, that the I'ajiid cur- rent provinu' its existence worlil also prtsvent its na\i;;ation, and that if Imi- f,dislinii 11 eould pass the str;iit they niiglit not lie pi'miitted to trade. l'assa,i;,'es from L'toleniy, .Mercator, and Moletius are adduced ia favor of th' strait's non-existence. Ail tliis was but a device to give vei^dit to later ar'^unients by v.iiicli Mr \Villes showed that these olijeetions had no force. His vicw.s Were .similar to those of (Jilbert; but ho added the exiiei'ience of 'a I'ortugall' wlio passMl the strait ami was imprisoned therefor many years in Lisl)on; of Urdam-ta, 'a Fryer of Mexico, who came out of Mar del Zur this way into Oerm:mie;' of ('al)ot, who learned tluit the 'straii;ht lyetli neere tlie 'A\H Meridian, betweene (II. and (i4. degrees in theeleuation, eontinuin.L,' tiie samo biedth about ID degrees West, where it openeth Southerly more and more, until it come under the tropicke of Caucer, and bo ruimeth into Mar del Zur, 60 THE NORTHERN MYSTERY. From the narratives of Martin Frobislier's voyages of 1570-8 to the inlet bearing liis name, and to the Meta Incognita, as the regions of tlie far north were often termed from his time, we learn that "the 11. we found our latitude to be G3. degr. 8. minutes, and this day we cntred the streight," a sentence pregnant with meaning to the theorists, especially as we read of the people that "they bee like to Tartars." And again, "Tliis said streight is supposed to haue passage into the sea of Siir, which I leaue unknowen tis yet. It seemeth that either here, or not farre hence, the sea sliould haue more large entrance, then in other j)arts within the frozen or temperate Zone." Later the author sj)ea]vs calmly of crossing the inlet to the east shore, "being the supposed continent of Asia," and back to tlie "supposed firme with America." They were doubtless in the strait, but cosmography had to yield to the love of gold, believed to be [)lentiful in the black rocks around the ex[)loreis. Yet of the third voyage it is said that Frobisher con- fessed that "if it had not bene for the charge and care he had of the Fleete and fraughted ships, he both would and could have gone through to the South Sea."^» "I, Thomas Cowles of Bedmcstcr, in the countie of Somerset, Marriner, doe acknowledge, that six yeares past, at my being at Lisbon, in the kingdomt of Portu- gall, I did heare one Martin Cliacke, a Portugall of Lisbon, reade a booke of his owne making, wdiich he had set out six yeares before that time, in Print, in the Portugale tongue, declaring that the said Martin at the least 18. degrees more in bredth there, than it was where it first began ;' and of Krohisjior, wlio returned safely from the icy regions. Respecting the currents, 'Lay yon now tlie summo hereof together. The riucrs runne where tlie cliani'ls are most hollow, the sea in taking his course wareth (lee]icr, the Sea waters fall continually from the North Southward, the Northcasterno current striketh downe into the straight we speake of, and is there augmoitcd with whole mountaines of ice and snowe. . . . Where store of water is, there is it a thing impossible to want Sea, where Sea not oucly doeth not want, but wareth deeper, there can be discouered no land.' '^^' lliikhtjit'n I'oi/., iii. 30-3, 80-1, with au argument provijj the existence of the strait from the tides, etc. to the :li were the 11. tcs, ami regnant ^ve read " And passage L iis yet. nee, the in other ' Later „>t to the t Asia, .nicrica." lography ?d to b<3 sxplorers. sher co!i- and care he both le South ountie of |ix yeares ,f Portu- tngall of vvhicjh he IPrint, in \\ ^lartin i first began ;' tspecting the li-unnc where li deeper, the lorthcasterne lo augmoitoil liter is, there Ih uot want, Ihe oxisteuco I I FROBISHER ^VXB DRAI 61 ^4 Chacko had founde, twelve yearcs now ]iast, a way from the Portugall Inclies, through a guHe of the New found Ijanil, which lie thought to be in 59. degrees of the eleuation of the North Pole. By nieancs that hee being in the said Indies, with foure other Shippes of great burden, and lie himsolfe in a small Shippe of fourscore tunnes, was driuen from the company of the other foure Shippes, with a Westerly winde; after whicli, hee past alongst by a great number of Hands which were in the gulfe of the said New found Land. And after hee ouershot the gulfe, hoe set no more sight of any other Land, vntill he fell with the North- west part of Ireland; and from thence he tooke his course homewards, and by that meanes hoc came to Lisbone foure or tiuc wcekes before the other foure Shij)S c»f his company that he was sei)aratecl from, as l)cfore said. And since the same time, I could neuer see any of those Books; because the King com- manded them to be called in, and no more of them to be printed, lest in time it would be to their hindrance. In witnesse whereof I set to my hand and marke, the ninth of Aprill, Anno 1579."*'^ All of which explains itself. I, like Cowles, have never seen any more of those books. Francis Drake's voyage in 1579 had some indirect bearing on the present subject. It was the hope of finding a strait by which to reach home with his ill-gotten gains that carried him into the northern Pacific; and his failure in this respect caused England for a long time to confine her search to the Atlantic side. His presence and ravages in the South Sea made Spain realize more fully the importance of finding and fortifying tlie strait for her own i»rotection; and, Drake's hcmieward route being for years not clearly known, rumors were current that he hatl actually found the northern passage, and had returned. More- over, there appeared soon after a fictitious narrative *" Pitrcha.% Ifis P'lhjrmvs, iii. 849. The story is meutioued by Jeffcrys, Buruey, and many others tioiu this source. ''I' Ir t& TTir: Nor.THERx mystery. connected witii tliis expedition. Padre Ascension told the tale to l^idre Zaiate do Salnieroii, v.'lio Avrote of it in 1()2(). It seems that "a loreiii^n ])il()t, named N. de Moreno, who < Altered a/ in;;fcs'' — \v!iato\'er that may mean — "from the Sea of the North to tliat of the Soutli by tlie Strait of Anian," gave this account to llo(h'i<''o del IJio, tlien ixovernor of Xew Calicia: j\[orena was set on shore in the region of the strait of Anian "very sick and more dead than alive" hy Drake as the latter vv-as returning homeward.''' He- covering his health he wandered through diver;; lands i'or four years, over nujre than live hundred leagues of tlerrd /innc, until he came to a Ijrazo dc mar (Wy'uWn'j; New ^lexico i'rom a great western land. This hody of water ran north iuid south, and seemed to the ])ilot to extend northwai'd to the port where lie had landed. On its banks were many large settlements, including a nation of white people, wlio possessed horses and fought with lance and shield. "Padre Antonic^ [Ascension] says he believes they are ]\Ius- covitcs, I sav that when we see them we shall know who they are," writes Salmeron. On the coast where he was put asliore Morena saw many good ports and great bays, and fi'om thnt point he thought he could sail to Spain in forty days. He came out iinally in New Mexico, and went down t() Sombrerete, where he told his story to (lovernor Hio, He was n'oing to England to bring his discovery before the court, but was willing to guide the governor to the strait.'''^ JJrake s narratives do not record the putting-ashore ■" TIio a]ipavcnt meaning is that the pilot had entered tlio Pacific by the strait with Drake, and Avas landed near its entrance as hewaH alxnit toi-eturn Ijy the same route; yet the Spaniards ought to have known Aveli enongli the way by which Drake came, even if uncertain liow he returned. '- tSdliiwro)!, llclucioncx --asliorc Icific l)y the lut to return ^enough the Lo7.a -was i-l, Apitiita- lUver! 'Kse ZAratc no „ eso puerto ko tie Mon- li costa con Icientos chi- of any man in the north. ^lorena's story was doubt- less imre iiction; but it is probable that it liad an inlhieiice in funning the later behef that California was an island. liodi-in'o del Eio, to whom ^lorena made known hi.s adventures, i^iving his views in 1582 as an expert respeclinn" tlie pro])er outfit for a ibrce to explore New ^lexico, recoiiniHiids that material be furnished for IniildinLC a vessel, botli lor crossing hr(r.(>s dc nui.r idcely to be encountered, and perhaps f )r returning by water, lie understands that the country reae'ies to the strait near the (Iran China, in latitude 57", and })lausibly conchides that in a territory so broad there nnist bo notable things.^'' Espejo, in liis New INTexican travels of 1 58 l—T, found no occasion to build shi})S, nor did he reach the (Jran China; l»ut a Concho Intlian in northern Chihuahua told Jdni of towns having liouses of three and four stories situated on a gi"eat lake some iifteen days' journey to the west; at Zuhi and west of it I e lieard again of a great lake, now sixty d;iys distant, with great and I'icli cities, whose inhabitants wore golden fracelets; and iinally, in the region of the modern l*rescutt, lie was told of a miij^htv river behind the sierra, on the banks of wliich wvvo tovrns in com- ])arison with which those already seen were nothing, the inhabitants using canoes to cross the river and pass ii'oni town to town.''* And Vargas, writing just after I'lsjjejo's return, attaches no small importance to that gi'cat river, really the Colorado, suggesting that it might be tlio Estrecho do ]>acalaos. ^loreover, the re})orted lal;e towns might have a significance in con- nection with the fact that the ancient Culhuas came from those regions.*^ Thus did men tr}' to arouse the "I'l enthusiasm for northern discovery dormant since Coronado's time. **L'-^/, llcUtcion; Ildkluiji's Voy., iii. 385. *''J-li that rin«jf seen lia is still luilc autl shut Itc, that have 1 that none of lie degieea of % a pciiinsula, but is joined to tbe main by a nari'ow istlimus in 45°, where the coast turns abruptly east- ward to and past C'abrillo's Sierra Nevada. What 4/ ^r//\^s:^^t A* \| NP^ TV/,,. # i " r c" f' Lok's Map, 1oS2. foundation Lok Imagined himself to have for this geographical abortion I do not know." John Davis did not indulge in any very wild specu- lations respecting the Xorthorn Mystery ; yet, return- ing from his voyages of 1585-7, he wrote: "I liauo brought the passage to that likelihood, as that I am assure* I it must bee in one of foure i)laces, or els not at all;" and again: "I hane bene in 7:3 degrees, find- ing tlie sea all open, and forty leagues betweene land and land. The passage is most probable, tlie execution easie, as at my coming you shall surely know."*** To " HrdhiyrA Dh\ To//., .")".; Kohl'.'i Ifixt. Dhcov., 200. Between the two sliips ami ftlxn-c the hue connecting tlieni are the followuig inscriptions, in Latni: .1 k/iI/) vhU'h (lircrf/i/ lu'htrfroni the.Mohicmf!, and hence in tifiifo tin: .Uoliirm.-*, mild inlha year IJIS. A. Gcdmno. ^'./';.s/».s;— which seems sulli- ciontly ahsnrd; and Thw^ far th<: vo;/a;/es of thir Prirtu;iue.-«', LIM; < f thi Spaniards; l.ljO; offhr EiKjU'^h, iJ6'0— wlii'ch is not much liioro iiitelligiblu, *=Jhdl,ii/r.i Toy., iii. 108, 111, 110-'2O. Hist. N. W. Coasi, Vol. I. 5 G6 THE NORTHERX MYSTERY. 50 tlic English colonists of Carolina, 1580, the natives said tha' the Roanoke "gushed forth from a rock, so near the Pacific Ocean, that the surge of the sea sometimes dashed into its fountain; its banks were iidiabited by a nation skilled in the art of refining the rich ore in which the country alK)unded. The walls of the city were desciibed as glittering from the abundance of pearls," Governor Lane exjilored the river in a vain search for tliese marvels.''" To Raleigh in 1587 Haklu^'t wrote: "I am fully perswaded by Ortelius Lite reformation of Culuacan and the gulfe of California, that the land on the backe part of Virginia extendeth nothing so far westward as is put downe in the Maps of those parts;" and noting a report of Florida Indians to Ribault of a great interior city where King Chiquola dwelt, the same writer says: "This secmeth to be La grand Copal." The map in Hakluyt's edition of Peter Marfi/r, 1587, leaves the great north-west a blank, as unex- plored; yet it ])uts amaredulce at G0°, about midway of the continent, and by great rivers running north- ward from the interior indicates the probability of o[)en sea on the north. California is a peninsula, as in Ortelius' map; Quivira is on the coast, in 40'; in the interior just below latitude 40^ and over the name New IMexico is an immense lake some six hundred miles in length, comnnmicating by rivers perhaps with the (lulf and with the ocean just above Quivira. Drake's discovery of Nova Albion is shown for the first time just below 50 ; and the coast line seenjs to extend to 55° before trendinsf westward. The Cathay coast is about fifty degrees west of Nova Albion. If we disregard tlie great lake, and look upon the mare dulce as Hudson Bay, this is the *>> Ocorr/c naiin-ofr>^ Hhf. U. S., i. 09-100. '•" llakhi)jf.t Vol/., iii. 'M'.], .tl 1. In loS!) .lunn B. Lomas, iuaskinc^ a license to si'ttlu New Mexico, miiU'rutootl tliat ti'iTitni y ti) incliule eviTytliiu^Lf aljovo tlu! l!io (^)lR•llOH, and clainuMl tiie rii^'iit tf) fditify both coasts, and to linild sliijjs to sail both toward Spain and the i'liilinpiucs. Loiiuui, AnKiciitoi/ CapilU' lacloii. the natives 11 a I'ock, 8o of tlio sea banks were of refilling nded. The ig from the q)lored the To Raleigh •swaded l)y I the gidfe lv:e part of «'ard as is ind noting of a great , the same d Copal."=° 'r Martyr, '^, as unex- Lit midway ing iiortli- babihty of linsula, as in 40"; in ' the name : hundred 'haps with ! Quivira. in for the line seenjs ard. T]i(3 of Nova and look lis is the kili.i!; fi license lythiajf jibovu mill to Imild 'cjitoi/ Capita- IIAKLUYT. 67 uncertainty about the eiict d.U:e.=' ^^ ' "^"^^' Shlut of Amax, 1,100 ;'' I have oniy tli(^ very l)i,l 68 THE NORTHERN MYSTERY. In his great work of 1590 Acosta devotes a chap- ter to " the strait whicli some affirm to be in Florida." "As ^Magellan found that strait that is in the South, so others have claimed to discover another strait which they say there is in the north, which they place in the HoNDius' Map, 1595. land of Florida, a land stretching so far that its end is not known." He alludes particularly to the ideas of Menendez, and mentions as some of the hitter's reasons in addition to those already noticed, namuly, ]>ii>''es of Chinese vessels found floating in the At- lantic; and the presence of whales from the South Sea observed in a bay of Flovida; and besides 'the its end to ideas latter's uiiiiulv, ho At- Soiith js 'the ACOSTA. CO i.oitlifm ge.itllcs. An(lolsculw.,r^. ° gospel to y-nd CapS Mendocino "Swstli^r*/' '"'^'''- "^''- •haJ a L:;^tr™m'th- ''"''■"'"■' *''" '^'■"'. It runs."'-" I reproduJo I *'°'"«*'""S immonso ivliat about laOa. "''i"""^'""' " ""P i"ade by Hondiu« SO * , Acosta, Hist. Nat. Ind., 71, 152-3. ill:; CHAPTER III. APOCRYPH^n. VOYAGES TO THE NORTHWEST. lo9G-lG09. Juan de Frcv's Pr?:tended Discoveries — The Story to Loic — Prescmp- Tioxs against its Trptii — Writers on' the Si'iuect — Ex-vmixatiox of EvinENCE, Historical and (iEotatAviiicAi. — Docrtless a Pcre Fic- tion' — ^[ERCAToa — Wytkliet — The Great Northwest — Imacixary Coasts, Rivers, axd Towxs — Conrad Liiw's HE:MARKAiiLE Map^Closb OE THE Century— Cai'Tain Lancaster — Herrera — Vizcaino— Acri- lar's River — Ascension — Torqcemada — OSate — Lake Copalla — Zinooada and Queen CiSacacohola^ — Tidax — John Smith — ^Lvl- DOXADO'S PUETENDED VoYAGE THROUGH THE STRAIT OF AnIAN — A Famous Lie. In recording the fictitious voyages it seems most },i-oper and convenient to notice each, not under its own pretended date, but under tlic date when tho claim was first made. By this system the first of tho famous voyages, several anonymous and vaguely re- corded trips through tho strait having been already referred to, belongs here, under date of 159G, when Jnan de Fuca tokl his talc of having discovered tho Northwest passage in 1592. This is also tho only one of the a})ocryphal voyages the authenticity of wliich still finds defenders; but more on this matter [>resently. In April, 1590, ^lichael Lok, an Englishman well known for his interest in geograjdiical discoveries, met Juan de Fuca in A'^enice. Fuca had lately arrived in Italy from Spain, and in Florence had encountered an English pilot, John Douglas, with wiiom he came to Venice, and l)y him was introduced to I^ok. Fuca's story was as follows: He was a Greek, born in tho (70) JUAX DE rUCA'S STORY. 71 OS JT. ;— rRKSUMP- MINATION OP L I'ruE FlC- -Imacixarv Map— Close AiNO— Aori- 3 COPALLA— MITII — MaL- ? AXIAN— A 3ms most under its vlien tlio st of tho ••uoly rc- ali'oady |i)G, when cred the lie only ticity of s matter liian well Icoveries, V arrivetl buntered [lie oanie Fuea's |i in the 170) island of Ce])lml()nia, and liis real name was Apostol Valerianos. He had been forty years mariner and pilot in the 8[)anis]i West Indian serviee, and Avas n board of tlie oalleon wlien ca[»tured by Cavendish ff the point of California, November, 1587, havini; lost sixty thousand ducats on that occasion. Subse- (luently he was sent as pilot of three vessels and one hundred men despatched by the viceroy to find the strait of Anian and fortify it against tlie Englislr but by ]-eason of a mutiny on o th )ldi ers, f or the sodomie of their Captaine," the ships turned back from the Californian coast,^ and the captain was pun- ished by justice in Mexico. "Also hoe said, that shortly after the said Voyage was so ill ended, tlie said Viceroy of Mexico sent him out againe Anno 151)2, with a small Caraucht, and a Pinnace, armed with Mariners onely, to follow the saide A^)yage, for a discouery of tlie same Straits of Allien, and the passage thei'cof, into the Sea whicli they call tlie Xortli Sea, which is our Xorth-west Sea. And tliat lie followed his course in tliat Voyage West and North-west in the South Sea, all alongst the coast of X<>>i(' SfHinid, and Culifornia, and the Indies, now calletl North Aiiicrien, (all which Voyage liee signified to me in a great ^lap, and a Sea-card of mine owne, which I laied before iiim) vntill lice came to the Lat- itude of fortie seuen degrees, and that there finding that the Land trended North and North-east, with a broad Inlet of Sea, botw(.'en 47. and 48. degrees of Latitude, hee entred tliereinto, sayling therein more than twi'iitie dayes, and found that Land trending still sometime North-west and North-east, and North, anil also East and Soutli-eastward, and vei-y much liroader Sea then was at the said entrance, and that hee ])assed l)y diners Hands in that sayling. vViid that at the entrance of this said Strait, there is on 'the ' Im it portsil)l(! that Fuca might have hoard L'uhnlluro's Htory? It will 1)0 rumciuhcriMl that tliat jtilot claiinud t> havu bouu with a tlcut that turuuil back from California ut a muoli earlier date. 72 APOCRYrilAL VOYAGES TO THE XOIITHWE-iT. ■ I Nortli-wust coast tlioroof, a great Hodlaiul or Tlaiul, Avitli an exceeding high Pinacle, or spired liot-ke, like a piller thereupon. Also he said, that he went on Land in diners places, and that he saw some peo[)le on Land, clad in Beasts skins: and that the Land is vci-y fruitfull, and I'ich of (xold, Siluer, Pearle, and other things, like Nona Spania. And also he said, that he being entred thus farre into the said Strait, and boing come into the North Sea already, and find- ing the Sea wide enough euery where, and to he about tliirtie or fortie leagues wide in the niouth of the Straits, where he entred; he thought he had now well discharged his office, and done the thing lie was sent to doe." So he returned to Acapuleo before the end of the year, hoping for reward; and was wel- comed by the vicero}^ with fair promises, but after two years of vain waiting, by the viceroy's advice he Avcnt to Spain to seek reward for his services from the king. Even here, though welcomed at court "in wordes ai'ter the Spanish manner, but after long time of suite tiiere also, he coukl not get any reward tliere neitiier to his content;" and sf) at length "he stole away out of Spaiiie, and came into Italic, to goo home againe and line among his owne Kindred and Countrimen: lie being very old." He thought the reason of S[)an- ish ingratitude was occasioned by the belief that England had relinquished the search for a strait, and therefore there was nothing to fear. Xow he was disposed to ho revenged on the Spaniards by serving the noble-minded ([ueen of England, lio})ing also that she would make good his losses at the hands of Caven- dish. If provided with a ship and pimiace he would undertake to make the voyage through the strait in thirty days. Lok wrote to Cecil, Raleigh, and Hakluyt, urging them to furnish money to bring Fuca to England with a view of acting on his i)roposition ; but the money was not forthcoming, and in a fortnight Fuca started for home. In July Lok wrote to the pilot; and in LOKS NOTE IX rURCIIAS. 78 w so ro])lyroc'oive(lii letter (liiti'rl at ro])lial()nia in So])toM\- 1h r.'iii whicli Fuca declaivd liiinsi'lf still ready lor the undertakiiiL];- if money could he furnislu'd. Similar letters were excliaii!^''ed in laUT, and a^ain in l.lDS; l)ut Lok was busied with other mattei-s and unahle to raise the needed funds; iind receiviiiL,' no reply to a k'tter of 1G02 he inferred that the C^reek pilot was death" This account, in the shape of a note by Lok, was puhlislied by Purcluis in lO^a, and has been re- peated from this source by later writers. That it IS presented accurately and in jierfect Ljood faith iar as liok and Purchas are concerned there is no reason to doubt. There is some evidence that the Greek pilot gave his true name and birth|)lace.'' ]>ut there are indications that his claim of loss at the hands of Cavendish was ^•rosslv exai'-fn'rated, if not unfounded.* The fact that I describe Fuca's voyai^e in this cha])- ter shows that I rej^ard his story as fiction. ]\[any intelligent writers, however, believe it to be in the main true; indeed I think that such has been the })revaleut opinion in later yoars.^ Therefore something of argument becomes necessary. - Purchas, Ili.i Pilijriiwfi, iii. 849-.r2, with copies of one set of the letters aUuded to. ^lu I S,")4 Alex. S. Taylor had inquivies mailo in Cephalonia tlirougli a ITnited States consul. The most detinite .statement ol)taincd was one frimi a l)i(igfapli- ical work of Masarachi, i)nl)lisliei1 in N'enice in 1S4.'?, evidently made up, so far as Fnca was concerned, frcmi the story to Lok, and proving nothing; yet there were other items that seened t(j show that Foeea was tlie name of ;in old family there; that a hrnncli of the family lived near Valeriano, thus ILiitly acei minting for the name 'Apostolos Valerianus"; and tliat.lu.'in iiim- self was rememl)ered traditionally as a great navigat(jr. Jlufi-hiii'/s M(t/(i- ■Jiii: iv. ll(i-:>2, l(il-7. ^ In two sworn statements made at the time hy the captain and a ]iasscn- ger, thiiuih many persons are named wlio lost much less tliun (iO.OIIO ducats, l''uea"s Uiime does not a})pear. Xiinirrcle, Vki'ii't A/idr., lO-t. Tlieit; is nothing in t!ie narrative of ('avendish's voyage to indicate that he found a (ireek jiilot on tlio Sta Anna, as some have implied; liut the fact that lie did tind and retiiin a Spanish and a I'ortuguese pilot might pos^ihly indicate that lie dill (10/ tind the (ireek. Neither is there anything to support the statement tliat Vizcaino was on hoard the.'iJ^ri Anna. ■' Not much was sairappeil in niysteiy, have .■^ecn no r ason Vi by Fuca may not have made a voyage as well as Vizcaino and other;^, have deemed his description as accurate as that of many other early voyagers, and have drifted into a lukewarm support of the pilot's veracity. They have not appreciated Fuca's motives for falsehood, nor the fact that he was as likely to locate a strait, in mIioso existence nearly all believed, and which nuist be above 44', between 47' and M' as elscwliei'c, and that nowhere be- tween those limits could his error have been greater. (Jf course the strait would be wide, with islands, and probably trending in ditl'erent directions. ^Murray, Xke of the narrative as entitleil to nnich imlulgence, like other old writings, Fuca having probably entered the strait and felt sure it led to the Atlantic, while 1'ytler, J/i.tt. \"n ir, 7S-i», in 18151! declared the story to rest on apocrji)lial authoiity. The authenticity of the voyage is defended by the Xorlh Amcr. I'cr/cti) of .January IS.'iit, p, 12l!-(!, as also by (ireenhow, in his Jfint., 4'2-'A, of 1840, andhis J lixt. <>r. (iml ('a/., SOet.'ieq., 407 1 1, wiio pronounces tho geographical descriptions 'as nearly conformal de with the truth, as those of any other account of a voyage written in the early ])art of tlie seventeenth century. ' Most later writers have followed ( Jreenhow; and for a time doubtless Americana allowed themselves to be inlluenced somewhat by national jirejudices. They often pointed triumphantly to the fact tiiat the voyage was defended by ' lirst- class English authority' like the (Jiiarfcr/i/ Uiricir, xvi. For similar reason.s some J''iigii3hmcn like Twiss, itually telling falsehoods about the northern strait, ci'eates a prol)ability that Fuca also spoke lalscly. His temptation and opportunity were great. The JCnglish were eager to lind the strait; they sus- ])ected that Spaniards had made and were concealing the discovery. Accidentally through Douglas, a con- genial spirit, whether dupe or accomplice, the Greek pilot meets ^lichael Lok. Ho need no longer rely on the old tlieories and rumors. To an Englishman ho may safely claim to have made an actual discovery in government craft. Lok will credit the tale, because it agrees with the theoritis, desires, and suspicions of himself and his class. Fuca's reward will be an ample one — satisfaction for pretended or exaggerated losses at tlie hands of an English corsair, honorable and istcncc of tlio Focca family in Ccphalonia have removed every vestige of douT)t of till! antliciiticity ol all that Fuca, iiuiy (iver Imvc chiiiiieil to do. Pijilssiii, ('. S., j;!9; Dickinson, Sji'crhr.^, i. l(Jo-7 ; and Jiord, in liritisk C'oliimhld, 1. pp. vii.-:;i.. support Fuca, Lord introducing Hoiiioinia,:4inarydctail:< of his inter- view with Lolv. In later years Klwood Evans, I'luji t Soiniil, 1-.") ; Hi.»;^uiy voyage of labo:^^ C^uT '"^""^''^'^ J^'"''^', ^"'^•"'•••^t'n. ,si,eh expe ^V^^^"''''3' sent out tu-.. ^vas corrcs,,onding witJi Lok ' T ? •""" '"^"'^^ ^'"'''^ ••^ «"'gle circuuLstancc in wnf .i 1 '" '" ""^' '"'^^•^^'^■••. ^•".ya^i^os to inchcato t at he Vn "^ "^ ^'^^^"••^'•"o'. voyage; yet Padre A cens on "^T '^, '• '7 i^''^"^'- ''"'.' ^vas a vohnninous writer an 'n ^^'I'^^'y^ chronich-.^ -l^'r £Ca:S3tt ^'i ^"-'^ «tate- eortmnty bv a total absenc" o/ i" ''"" "''^^^^ ^^'^«-^"to "^^<^ « '!o reasonably accou l?]-^^^'^'"^- ^^^timony J^ypothesis. There LuaiuXu^ "' ^" '''"^^^ ^^hc;^- oi testnnony to sliake th . )""? i^^'^'^''^^^' •^our<.o o"n>resent accurae L^Wer^^^r^'^' ^"^'^ ^'^^^ i^ .^•0'>i,;rapliy. To suppo "t h s .^ • "^^ "orth-west coast ^""■-t describe tlie ph s L I f""' ^^^' ^^'^^^'^^ PiJ"t 'i-^'^tion more fnJlv and / ^'^"'"f ^^^' the region h ir'-iWowitJu^ut Ssc^I T'"?';''^^ tJi^n AVouId lo ^'-^^l than undergo ;!;V^^^^ fulJv i , -Pocted to do in a I ef ^^S""'^"^^- ^^^ could I L "lary statements den^ kI n'^! iT'?'^^'^- ^-^t^'''^--- ^^^^ props, but one, su iti Z^- ''^'' ^"''^ ^^'''^''^ •••H ^-^ i^H,cked down, ^T^ol" ^IT^ ^^'^'^J'^ ^'-o lc>lerab]y good gukssinl on Iw '' '^'''''^ ''"'-^-'- 7t ArOCRVPTTAL VOYAGKS TO Till-: NORTHWEST. .«rT , m-J C Cuut,on(-;r7«'"''*' '"J" C.S=ott(-.- % \^X^, / &.gook'^- ':^ '';•" '"lJ\ <. ■M> > - ":^- '^^t^ \^^""^# C.B8'llB?-,fi'l.>'"' \ c=. \ "" Bar :r^ C Fl!i'tt9ry(\ (?5 V, CEbThtCTION IS^V rMic;ih U,i.l.jr> Straits of Juan de Fuca. FUCA'S I'lLLAR. n we liiul ill the ciitraiicc to l^iLji't Scuiid cortaiii foa- tuivs that, with due allowaiicc lor the rxa^'ncration, aiul coiit'iisioii, and orror ooimnon iti siicli cases, may Ih' made to tit his narfativf; and aihiiittiiiL;' therct'ore that he discovered the strait, we can account more or less satisl'uctoi'ily lor the loss or su})i)re«sion ol' his original I'eport." Fuca claims to have entered a strait between 47" and 4H , ini|»lied]y just ahovu 47 , and even to have saili'd by that strait throUL>li to the Atlantic; hut there is no iidet within firty miles (»t" that latitude. Ninety miles f'-' iher north, however, in latituih^ 48" 'M', there is a strait leading- to the body of water which, under various names, sejjarates Van- couver Island from the maiidand. I iL?ive hei'ewith a map of these waters. Fuca's strait was thirty or forty leagues wide at the entrance; this one is twelve or twenty miles, accordin<^ to the j)lace and metliod of measurement. At the entrance (»n the north-western shore Fuca noted "a sj^reat Hedland or Hand, with an exceeding' high Pinacle, or s[»ired Kockc^, like a piller t]iereu})on;" but nothing of the kind exists in the locality indicated. It is true that opposite, on the s(>uthern shore, about Ca[)e Classett and the Tatouche Islands, are numerous detached rocks Avhicli the ac- tion of the waves has left in colunmar and fantastic forms; rocks which are not uncommon on ditfei'ent )>arts of the coast. Some voyagers have found nothing here to correspond with Fuca's ])illar; others have identitied with that landmark one of the rocks alluded to; and Wilkes has furnished a sketch which I copy, ('onnnander Phelps, on the contrary, has found the jtillar several hundred miles farther north, on Galiano Island." Obviously nothing but a veiy j)rominent •■' Phi'lp^'' Tli'minhrencoi of Smith', Pliil., ISSl, p. 40. lie thinks tliat Fnca's v.i(;no liingna,i,'e has huen misiuulorstood, iuid that thu pillar was at tiic supposed •Hitlit into thu Atlantic, whore is 'a reniarkaljlo promontory VM) foot high.' Hi3 admits that iiotliing of the kind is found near tlie south eml of Vancouver Island. Mearcs, Voij., 1.").'}, found ' a very remarkable rock, tli;it wore the form of an ohelisk,' not far from an island near the southern .shore. Van- couver, Voy., i. "JIT, did not liud Mearcs' ' Piuaacic rock,' 'or any other rock 80 APOCRYPHAL VOYAGE?; TO THE NORTHWEST. landmark — certainly not one of many and ordinary rocks on t!io Avroni^ side of the strait — can suffice for tlie ])urposes of this investigation. Fuca entered liis strait and sailed in it for twenty days, until he came to the Atlantic Ocean. Tliis has to be 'explained' by the thcor}' that he sailed round the island, coming out again to the Pacific in about 51'. A professional pilot cannot reasonably be sup- posed to have made such i\n error. As he advanced Fuca found the strait — one hundred miles wide at the entrance — to grow wider, im}>liedly throughout his ( -,;k^' JcAX iJE Puca's Pillak. navigation; but as a matter of fact the channel narrows to a mile in width long before the outlet is readied. Fuca found tho shores of the passage trending N. W., N. E., N., E., and S. E. — that is, naturally, he sailed those courses successively m his voyage to the Atlan- tic. The far-fetched 'explanation' is, that from a [)oint ijKiro congpicuons tliaii tlumsaiids nlniifr the coast, vai'ying in fcirni and t-izc; somo eoiiiual, ollici'.s wilh Hat wiilfs, Hat tops, ami almost uvury otliur sliauu that can lic li^iiicd l)y tho imagination.' Wilkcn, ^'. ,S'. K.c. J-J.ipi' /., iv. ")!!(, .')27, docs not till us where lie foiin-otcl,m,, «'"Hwdc.nee«, nor rcquiri, "tj *'''"'>' '■""""faiWo ;Hc.|t.. that the land'wa -vc'rT'?";';- Hi ".''^ «*"*'-- '"ve'^t;:;ri.f "'■'•-' ■ -^i''--" ti™ " '■ »"'' "* °'' t" <«vreo,ne tiie^str^S 2, '^'''-^ """""? '» (iction; „ot!,mg to prove B"'' v f "«''^ *«''« gjons: i.othiny tlmt «■ thout • v , 1 " r'"","^' *''"* >«- I"« e„ remark-ably !„ekvif ,"*'"""'• Fuea "I tlio future anv nronf „ •'' ' '"'' RUessinir u voyage to the .Jit "eL ^r * "' *'«'-''' "- '« » "overy of a strait, the a „I- •, ?'" ,'M'"rted the .h's- "1' t .at he reached the efct • "'ri';^' "''''^ '^« «ot a'Hl trusted to his ima-^Sfon V u"'"^" «° 30', ""'■- oan be said in his"&™r H "" "'"'"'■ N" 'ate however, than many wW^" '™' """■" «"■'«- t"'i'"n^r.':fT.^rTf"^^^ i'»ee. that of R • . ^' ^^it another Asinf,V. ! ;-[«!;.... tl.o coaJt'north" S T,^"""''-" •-"' , :}'"'■'" 's ajT'lied for tlic first I; ' "'""" ^'^ait northern passage but t„ , "'"' "»' *<> tliu Ion., ••'"'I '0°and le,,din.;f"nt1;'p •«'■■"" '""t":es its waters westward into a fjreat Ljulf near Anian Strait, and is no longer identitied with the circular mar chilcc, which we are told in an inscrip- tion is the body of water whose end is not known to tlie Canadians. Of the two great Arctic bodies of land, that on the east is said to be the 'best and most healthful in all the north;' while on the other it is explained that the ocean has broken through to the •* Liiir, Mecr O'ler Scehaiicii Duch, Dar'nm Vcrzfkhnft sflii'l die Winnlerfnirr, Gi'domkwurd'Kji' Itvhe, etc. Colin, l.")!>8. A collection of voyaged trauslutcd aud abridged from \arioua well kuowu sources. 86 APOCRYPHAL VOYAGES TO THE NORTHWEST. II 1 polo, forming four channels, two of which arc shown on this copy, which only includes half of the original. This map is in severrl respects remarkable, as the reader may convince himself by a comparison with the annexed rough sketch, which shows the regions mapped by Low in their true proportions, and on the same scale. The strait of Anian in its latitude and width bears a resemblance to Bering Strait which is really startling. • Note also the general likeness of Bergi and Anian with their great river to Alaska with its rivers Kwichpuk and Yukon. No less wonderful Map for Comparison. is the correspondence between the Cogib River, flow- ing north-west from Lake Conibas into the Arctic Sea just beyond the strait of Anian, and the Mackenzie River, flowing from the Great Slave Lake. Comjiaro the tmir dulce, its strait and island, with Hudson Bay and the corresponding features. Let us also bear in mind how little is known even yet of the region above 80''; and not forget the part played by ice in those latitudes. Suppose certain of the complicated chan- nels frozen, as they were likely enough to bo; and suppose an exploring expedition, as well equipped and observant as were the best in those times, to have sailed through from ocean to ocean in 1598, and to FURTHER ACCOUXTS. 87 have made this map as a record of actual ol^servations, and I liave no hesitation in saying that the map would under those circumstances be reL?arded to-day as a marvel of accuracy. I have no theory to rest on tliese facts; I have no doubt that the geography de[)ic-ted was purely imaginary, and the resemblance to reality accidental; yet to many intelligent men of the past and present these coincidences would be confirmation stronger than holy writ in su})})(>rt of whatever they might happen to be interested in. I shall not be surprised if even yet the accuracy of this ma[» as herein published is made to confirm the authenticity of one or another of the fictions. Felipe III. on his accession in 155)8 is said to have found among the papers of his father a narrative of certain foreigners who from the coast of Newfound- land were driven by a storm into a great bay, Jmd thence into a strait by which they passed into the Houth Sea, coming out at 48, and finding a river which l)r()ug]it them to a magnificent city. This report fur- nishod one of the motives for Vizcaino's expedition." About the same time Hernando de los Rios sent to the king from Manila a notice of two ways for a (juicker and safer navigation from Spain; one by a passage entering above Florida and penetrating to New Mexico, in latitude 45°, according to inft)rmation « )btained by the Jesuit Padre Sedcno and an Augus- tine friar who died at Manila; and the other by the strait of Anian, according to a written statement of Friar Martin de Racla, founded on information from Juan de Kibas to the efiect that certain Portuguese jiassed through it to India and China, and from Uclieo to Lisbon in forty-five days.^ 10 "•' Tonjueniada, Monarq. Iiid., i. G94, says the strait was that of Anian al)ovo Cape !Meuilocino. Navarrete, ]'laiir'H Ajxic, 41; hi., m Siitil ij Mcx., I'i'iijr, xHii.-iv., consulted a MS. relation of Padre Ascension in the arciiives. SahiuTon, liiditciones, \\-'i2, adds that one man, apparently of tlie same party, escaped after the rest had perished, reached Florida, and died at Vera Cruz, where lie had a priest write down his account and sent it to ex-(JuYcrnor Kio. '"Original in the archives of Seville, cited by Navarretc. Also alluded to in a letter of the kiuy, 1002. CoL Doc. Iiud. 83 APOCRYPHAL VOYAGES TO THE NORTHWEST. ! I hi: I ' ■ ! ! A postscript attached to the letter of Ca[)taiii Lan- caster on his East Indian voyage of 1(500-1, but of doubtful authenticity, states that "the Passa^^e to the East Indies lieth in 02.^. degrees by the North-west on the America side."" The historian Herrera, in his description of 1(101, gives Quivira its proper situation far to the eastward of Cibola; but his map is on a very small scale, without names lor the most part, California is correctly delineated, and a broad ocean separates that region from Asia; but in latitude 45°, just above Cape Fortuna, the coast line turns abruptly to the E. N. i:., extending in that directio?i to o.l>ovt inipos- f Great the sea rrom the land said [sar, since 3r it was jof Cali- ta which )haveacor- bcing on tho land Anion. corresponds to the North Sea and coast of Florida," thus clearly indicating not only the existence of a strait, l)ut that the gulf was either a ])art of, or at hast led to, that strait. These Indians also confirmed wliat had been learned before of Cojjalla and its gold. Silver and coral were likewise familiar to them, and were to be obtained not far off. ^lore wonderful still, the natives told of an island called Zinogaba, rich in pearls. It was one day's voy- age out in the sea, and reached in boats rigged with sails, all of which they pictured on the sand. And the island was ruled by Cihacacohola, a giantess, who had a sister of innnense size, but no male of her race Avith whom to mate. Another mysterious circum- stance was that all the inhabitants were bald. Onate's o1)servations at the head of the gulf, where he found a splendid harbor, did not disi)rove the statement of the natives that the gulf extended northward behind a sierra to where the sea made a turn toward Florida. It was well that Don Juan heard of wonders in this region; for when on his way to New Mexico a lew years before, the venerable Padre Diego do ^ler- oado had said to him at Tula: "B}' the life of Friar ]3ieg(j there are great riches in the remote parts of New ^Mexico; but by the life of Friar Diego the present settlers will not possess them. It is not for them that God holds that wealth in reserve;" and so it proved. Still more to the point, the venerable and famous Santa Madre de ]\Iaria de Jesus, abbess (jf Santa Clara de Agreda, had said, "It is very probable that in the exploration of New Mexico there will be found a kingdom called Tidani, four hundred leagues from Mexico westward, or north-west, between New ^lexico and Quivira; and if by chance there be an error, cosmography will aid the taking notice of other king- d(jms, of the Chillescas, or of the Guismanes, or the xVburcos, which touch on that of Tidam."^" '" .SV(/(HecoM, Relaciones, 30-8, 47-o5; Kiel, ApuntamknfoK, 81-6. Canlona and Cusunate heard from captains Man^ue'z and Vaca that tiiey had struck the 08 APOCRYPITAL VOYAOKS TO THE XORTFIWEST. John Smith wliuu ca[)turc(l and saved hy Pocahontas in 1G07 was cxj)loiinuf tlie Chickuhominy llivcr tor a passago to the South Sea." In 1 nOO Lorenzo Ferrer !^ialdonado in Spain made the claim that twenty-one years before, in 158H, lie had Bailed tlirongh the strait of Anian from the Atlantic to the Pacific. Why ho waited so long has never been explained. There is no reason to donbt that !Mald()nad(, was a real pers(^nago, or that ho wrcjte the document in wliicli the claim is made. Seventeen years later he published a cosmogi'a])hical work, in whic.'h, however, he neither claimed to have discovi'red the strait nor gave a description agreeing at all with that in the earlier document.*^ A reputable Spanish writer, (larcia do Silva y Figucroa, who took deep interest in the north-westeru problem, met Mal- donado in ^ladrid in 1G09. He was said to have been brought up in Flanders and the Hanseatic cities, clainu'd to have sailed throu'jch the strait, and was trymuf to interest certain jnrovernment ministers m his project. Being questioned, he said the entrance of the strait was in latitude 78°, the outlet in latitude 75°, and that he had sailed through it in thirty days in November and December. On hearing his story, observinix his maimer, and examining some of his pretended sketches of Anian, Silva deemed lum an rtivcr Tizou in ."G" ."0'; tliat the famous port was in tl't°; that the giant queen wan ■vvont to mix powdcrud pearl in her drink; and that south of tlic Tizon vus ii larger river, the Itio ^ici Coral. Paclwco and t'anlniux, <.'iil. Doc, ix. 24, .'!•_•-:!. ' Aocordin;^' to IMM'- / ■fount, KM-'), TrihaMus wrote to Ilakluyt in 1U05 that (Jfiato in u'AYZ disein'cred the great Northern lUver, and went from it to the 'famous lak. n'' t'onihas' — ^seu Wytllict's and Liiw's maps — 'where ho i)retendcd lie <;;vv ..City of vast Extent, seven Leagues long, and two wide, the llonsies separated from each other, and iinely built and orna- mented with fine* lardens. Ho said the numerous Inliabitants had all retired ut his Approach, and fortilied themselves in the Market-place or great Si juaro. ' In ]'ci/(ia. Hist. Ant. -Mrj., i. 140, the giant (piecu is called Cii'iacacohota, and the island Cinogualina, which may l)e tlie correct forms, ay Salnieron's typo- graphy is very doubtful. '' GV(/yv/f lianrrajVs llkt. IT. S., i. 129. The map in Jcffiri/s' Clnat Proh., 80, said to be tidscn from the 1st edition of Ton/nfMada, lliOS, id the ^J;anc as that uli'eady mentioned under pain mtulc II lo.SH, ho from tlio loiiu^ luis »n to doubt jr that ho 1 is mado. lographical ud to liavo aixroeiiiuf at L reputable I, who took i, met Mal- ) have been latic cities, t, and was tors in liis Imcc of the Ititude 7;")", |ty days in his story, no of his d him an Bio giant qiiccn |i of tlio Tizon Col. Dec, ix. ko to llakiuyt |\-or, aiul went Ijiw'.s maps — tuc-i loii',', and Lilt and orna- lad all retired n-cat Square.' bacoliola, und Inerou's typo- \(lreat Proh., Id the Kiiiuo as rmhuittcro, utterly unworthy of oredit." ry far the most important nutliority ou this topic ; and, indeed, on the general sul>ject of v.hicli it treats. The full title is: Exanutn htstorko-critlco dc lof I'lco/m >/ JJC'^ciihriiiui'iiloi Ajidc- rhhti till ('allium Lorenzo Ferrer Maldonado, de Jiiaa ileFiica, y del Almirante liurtnlomc da Fonte. Mcmoria comeiizwla jior D. Murlia Fcniandz d<' Xa- rrtrnle, y an-eijlwla y concluida por 1). L'tinkujuto Frriiaiidtz d'-. Kdrurritc. All') de IS.'/S, in I'ol. Doc. Iiicd. Hist. xv. 7-o03. This work contains much luatcrial on actual as well as apocryphal voyagc=<, including treatises on -Mala.spina's and other expeditions, not found elsewhere in prhit. It is an ela1)()Uition of the elder Navarrctc's introduction to the voyage of tho S 11/ il y Ml .cieaiia. Notwithstanding its great importance I do not liud that any late ^M•iter on these topics has cited this work. ■'^Muldonado, IMacion del dcsenbrbniento del Edreehode Aniaiu que luce yo, el cupHan Loreitcin Ferrer Mcddonctdo, elauolJSS, en laciiulistd la urdi a de kt iiHrc'jfir'toii y la dilc that lie had vague traditions from someljody who had actually penetrated tho frozen ocean. In III., xxi. ;i9;^-4, the French editor notices a newspaper reply of Amoretti lo I.indenau as foUows : ' Si MaldiMiailo a mal calcule lea latitudes et les longitudes dc maniere a fairc passer son vaisseau par-dessus Ic continent, c'est, scion .M. Amoretti, uno petite crreur pardoniiable A un niariii du seizicine sieclc. Si co jiiarin a evidemnicnt copio dc cartes anterieurcs i'v son voyage, avcc t(Jutes les fautcs, c"est unc prenve do la realite do son voyage. Si, par uialheur, sa de- scription pliysi(pie dcs lieux qu'il pretend avoir vus est contraire .'i tout ce qu'en disent h;s navigateurs incderiies, o'est parce (pi'apparciiunent ua tn iiditi - incut (Ic tcrrc en a elaunjc I'l'tal ! — Tout ccla est, conimc on voit, totalenient etranger a la gcogi'aphie critique do ims jours; line semblable maniero d'argumenter n'admet et n'exige aucuno reponse.' In Xoiivclten An. ilm I'-ij., xi. S-'28, Lapie defends ^Jahlonadc/s voyage, making wild work with uortiiern geography, as will be apparent from his map, which F shall have occasion to reproduce. The Qiiarltr/;/ Jii'vicir, xvi. Ml-.IS, of 1817 sho%V3 the Amoretti document — really the only one existing ou the subject, or a copy of the only one — to be an absurdly inaccui'ato forgery ; but at the same time has no doiil)t that ^Maldonado's narrative, as seen by Antonio, etc., wan a genuine account of au actual voyage to tho Pacific cia Capo Horn and up to Cook Inlet, which 3T. MALDOXADO'S STORY. 05 with the t to provo hstandinj^ , hi.s views voyage is I hfchx en IJSS Vritteu huforo CO Ccvallos id 17'JS. lilan, ]S11. I ■ la vicr Alldii- rtr h: Cdjiifidiiii Hsrrit. I'l^i'ifjiinl fi: I'laisaiK'c, /aye is on pp. Aniorctti. ouu- vavretu's woik tliu (Uicda ill". |;jl,4r)7-)S, cou- udenau. 'ilio iird'iijkcit , L'tc. Ircviewiiig the he latter that lloiuulo visitcil lie that he ha>l frozen oeean. if Anioretti to [U'slongitiiikri t'est, selon ^\. HiOcle. Si eu CO toutes le.^ ilhcur, ya tie- re h tout CO it un in nihil - It, totak'ineut bio niaiiiei'i! n. dm I"' ;/•> ith northern occasion t j ho Amoretti :.f the only lias no iloiibt iiinc account inlet, which ^laldonado's story was briefly as follows : In Feb- ruary, ir)88, having come from Spain or Portugal, guided by the notes of a Portuguese pilot named Joilo lilartinez, who it seems had made the voyage before, he entered the strait of Labrador in latitude (50 . His course after this entrance was 80 leagues x. w. up to latitude G4°; thence n. 120 leagues to latitude 72°; N. w. 90 leagues to nearly latitude 75°, where the strait ends, being from 20 to 40 leagues wide, Avith numerous ports, and its banks inhabited to 7.'V. Emeruinix into the Polar Sea at the beijinnino' of !March, he found the weather cold and stormy. Wate-r froze on the ship and rigging; but ice was not en- countered in any more troublesome form. The route was now w. [- s. w. for 350 leagues to 71°, where on the return high land was found, and supposed to be a ))art of Xew Spain; thence he sailed av. s. w. 410 leagues more, to the strait of Anian, in (50°^ He re- mained in this region during the months of April, \i.dy, and part of June, during which time he passed through the strait — fifteen leagues long, with six turns, less than one eighth of a league wide at the north entrance and over one fourth of a league at the south; coosted America for more than 100 lea<;ucs s. w, to 55 ; tlience sailed w. for four days, or 120 leagues, to a high mountainous coast; and returned north-westerly to and tlirouf Mahlouado's \ipj'a2feisei)ncernetl. Malte-lhuM, J'ircix d'd'j., vi. ■'{02 .'>, repeats his views .;s already cited, (ireenhow, Hist. Or. miil. Cal., 7!)-.SH, pionounces the story a iiction, hut deems it not iinprohahlc, as in the <^hiar>i r/;/, that snuie nnkuov.ii voyage made up the I'aeilic coast to (,'ook Inlet may hav(! sei-vcd as a found.i- tion. In lliinii ij's hixrur. Smith ■•^lu, v. l(i7-7.'{, is a ti'an^latinr. of tin; ini- n"-* uit parts of the narrative, with remarks thereon and references to various II orities. The document is rej,'arded as a fori,'ery hy sonii! Flennniii;,', wiio attributed the voyage to .MjJdonado. liiirroirx ('hrnii. I/ist. Voi/., IslS, 1S4S, contain! an Kn^lish translation of Maldon.'ulo's n iation with tlio maps. Iwiss, JJi.st. Or., G-t-U, gives a nuniiic from various authoriiics. 96 APOCRYPHAL VOYAGES TO THE NORTHWEST. selves understood in Latin, but were suspicious and not inclined to be communicative. They came from a j^reat city called Robr, Roba, or some such name, be- longing to the king of Tartaiy. Maldonado returned Maldonado's Stilvit ok Asian, 1009. by the same route in June and July, and not only was not impeded by ice, but found it — the suii never setting at all — hotter than in the hottest parts of Spain. MARKED DISCRErAXC'IES. 97 Tlie country round tlic strait of Anian is doscrilied in niuc-li detail. I annex the only one of the iive sketches wliich has any interest. It may be conipare ]iering Strait down to the time the argument was made. At ]ircsent the resemblances may be said to consist solely in tlie I'act tliat the Polar Sea actually aifoi'ds an interoceanic; ]nissagi; Ijy wa}' of ]>eriug Sti'ait. The most startling (liscrej)ancies are tliat ^Maldonado's strait, as described and pictured, bears not the slightest lik'eness in length, width, and general features to the reality; that it is located some three hundred miles too far south; that Alaska's mild tem- ]Hrature, with its corresponding fruits and animals, ha ; ill later tunes disappeared; that ^[aldonado's distances make the longitude of the strait some f!0^ too far «-ist — ^ju.st as did the maps of his time; that through- oiit. the vovage his distances and latitu. The real sti'ait of Anian, or ]>ering, leads into the frozen o('(>an nortli of Jviteguen, which is a western prolongation of (liveidand; while ^[aldonado's strait was not Anian at all, but a passage li>adlng fi'om Xi»rton Sound into a polar sea south of Iviteguen and connected in the lllsT. N. \V. Co.vsr, \ oL. I. 7 98 ArocrvrnAL voyages to the xortiiwest. Ill east witli tlic straits of Davis and Hudson! TIio route in the west is shown hy a dotted line. The reader lias no need of arguments in this mat- ter. Starting with a strong |)resunij)tion, arising from the nature of the pretended discovery and from the Lapie's M\p, 1821. spirit of the times, that Maldonado's claim is false, he will be led from presumi^tion to conviction when the time that elaj)sed between the voyage and the narrative is noted, and ])articularly when lie learns the man's reputation as liar and forger. On reading A MOST BUXGLIXG FALSEHOOD. ,3 tlio narrafivG he will nnf h,. ri i . "l'i.'io.i, if 1,0 con Lry* ,,;;:■'■. '°,^''""S» '"« over .sun,,y sea,s with tl c X"fl '""""•" '"'l' i" tl.c same waters. An,ir,,llv ,';:'>«'>to>« of ti.e „,a,,s that l^w b e 1 ^21,7"' ' ■''' lY""" p.iSes, wliich— or ethers of' '-i'" "''"'-■"' '" these i--o .iefe,K,:rthe'' :it]L ;t f :; '-i;^'.;"f ' -- llicro ,s not the slightest neen.!;* I "'^■"•'"• -.0 have ,iene, tiKat^hrl;r::;x,t;t:;'Ts " J/ay, or made a ovalaiisiblo cimnauK \ ■ ^''^ "»ao-ination, o. that 4io«t ::;];;«;; ^*'X™^—wi.j < CHAPTER IV. THE NORTHERN MYSTERY— CONCLUSION. IGIO-ISOO. SrAKisn Jr.vTA — GAnciA de Silva — A New Piiare — Califounia oxce MoiiE AX Island — Cahdona — Dctcii ALvp — Brigcs' Tkeatise — Sal- Mi:i:oN— Deuiauo's Voya(!E — De Laet — Wi.snei'i;(!s, on Men of the Sea — NicoLi/r — Botello and Casanate on Nokthkun (!i;iiouAriiY— D'AviTV— AcLE— Melcceu— Ax Exact Desceii'tion— Ooiliiy— Maii- qeette, Hennepin, and La Salee — rKciiE — Teoiavo — PAitEDEs— Dam- piEE— LtYT — La IIontan — Kinoand Mani;e — Islandou Peninsila? — JLu's OF IL'.l'KE, Heylyn, and ILvrris — Baiitiioloj'EW de Fonte's FicTiTiors Lettei! — De l'Isle and Bcaciie — EiEi-iO'inAiMiY of a Hoax — Rocees — Veeaude — Niel — Ugauie's Voyage — Caeuolnlv a PENINSri,A AGAIN — SlIELVOCKE — COXE — DoEBS — SeDELMAIU — VeTAN- ciET — ICllis— New Moeth foe the Coloiudo — Venegas — Jeffeeys— Engee — CAii\EE — End of tue Mystery. During these early j'ears of the seventeenth cen- tury so much alarm was felt in Spain lest South Sea supremacy should bo lost through the discovery of a strait lliat a junta was formed by the ministers of the court of IV'lipe III. with a view to prevent further search for tlie [)assago by the north-west, or north- (>ast, and to send an embassy to England to urge the matter. It would be interesting to study the discus- sions of this junta; but tlio records are not extant, nor do we Icnow how the embassy was received. It appears, however, that Garcia de Silva, and probably others, opposed all restrictive measures, urging that exploration should be encouraged, and expressing a behef that the finding of a strait in the far nortli would in no way injure Spain, since it would not open a (pucker or safer route to the Pacific, on account of (100) SP^VXISn IXACTIOX. 101 tlio clifficnltics and danger attending tlie navigation of the polar seas. It is evident that the prevalence of this opinion among those highest in authority and those best qualilied to judge in the matter was one of the chief causes for the official inaction of the next century and a half. There was no end of vague projects urged upon the government by private ad- venturers, oftener in America than in Spain; but actual results were confined for the most ])art to the pearl coast of the Californian gulf In the highest Spanish official circles the Northern Mystery had well nigh lost its charm. ^ Since, however, the work of actual exploration was confined to the gulf, a large portion of the ]\Iystery was transferred to that region, and had its home there for many years, so far as Spanish views were con- cerned. Since 1 540 for nearly a century the Californian peninsula and gulf had been described and mapped in very nearly their true positions and proportions; but all this was now to be changed. Lok in 15S2, for no reason that can be known, had almost sc[)arated the peninsula from the main at a point in about lati- tude 45 \ where he turned the coast abruptly eastward. Then Padre Ascension, in connection with the voy- age of Vizcaino in 1G03, had also given currency to llie eastward trend, and seems, in conversation and written memorials, to have fii\()red the idea that Aguilai-'s river was not only the entrance to the Aniau Strait, Ijut min'ht also be connected witli the 'ndf'' Next Onate, in lG04,from observations and i'roni In- dian re})orts at the mouth of the Cohjrado, concluded ^Xnmrrctr, V'ia)jcs Apdc, 20-4-.") ; /'/., in Snt'l // .}f(x., Vi'vjo, Ixviii. ix.; Si!f(i, Ci)iiii'ii/riri"-9, KiliS, wliioh seems not to I.avc lieeii luiuted until IT^J, in //'■v'. (1,1 (,'raii Tdinnrhin. Mmjiii, ll'ist. ('niu. (I(s /m/cs, l(ill, contain.-; thu ^Vytiliet-l'tok'I1ly niiipa thatliavo already been noticed and rt-'produwd fivnn t!ic originals of 15'J7. Matin's work is in tlio Meroantilo Lilirary of Saii Franeiseo, where is also a l(i2S edition of Liii^^r/iokii, loymjc, with ii niai) of the northern eountries, sliowin.i; no new features. -At any rate lu^ ele;irly anntiuneed this view of tlu! suhjettin UJJO, .l.srr,/- nioii, ]}(lwiQii, r)4;{-4, mying the occupa,tion of California as a step toward the eiju(|ucst of Auiau, Qui\ ira, etc. J-JO TIIK XORTHERX MYSTERY— CONCLUSION. ii'SS «f*ii llf ■ ■■" that tlio ji^iilf waters extemled iiortlnvard and east- ward to the Atlantic, thus confirming? Ascension's theory. And finally, in or about 1(117, Nicolas de Cardona, who had talked with some of Onate's oiHcers, and who in 1G15 had himselt' naviujated the oult' — he- lievinj^ himself to have reached 34", iK)tinL( deep open water stretchineis<)nally heaixl from tliu natives confirmation of the old tales about Quivira and the great lake towns. These rumors vrere convenient incentives for vovaixes which mii^ht alfoi'd opportunities for pearl-fishing. The idea of California as an island once conceived, it soon became deep-rooted and popular. The next thinsjf in order was for some adventurous Fuca or Maldonado to sail round it; and this seems to have been done in 1020. I have not been able- to trace this story, however, to a definite origin. The real soui'ce of the new geographical idea as I'elated in my text has not been known to modern wiiters.* From this ' Canl'Dia, Uc'achn (Ji'J (loacuhr'tmtrnto dd Ucino ilc hi ('aJ'fonihi ; mid similiir views in a (locuinout Avrittcn soiiio yciirs Liter. CcrdinKi, Mciiinrhil .inJjrc kii.< de-icnlirimit'n'o.i (11 la ('(I'ij'orn'ni ; botli in Pncha'n itml ( ''iii/iinis, C(l. J)o\, ix. ;}0-.">7. These arc memorials urging the importanee of ivnewed eil'orts. Tlio author )ie;i;iiiM: 'California is ;v far extemled kin;;ilom of wliieh the end is only known hy ijeo'p'aphical eonjeetures and demonstrative notices, whieli make it an island titretehing from N.w. to s. i:., forming a mediteri'anean sea adjacent to. . .the inct'ignita eontraeosta de la Florida.' In 44 , aeeording to Vizcaino and ^\acension, the coast makes a turn to the ea.st, 'y ha.stahoy no Be sabc A donde v;i d parar.' Ancient and modern writers have closed the sen in 28', but this seems an error. ' Luego la California es isla nuiygrande; y que oste ueno <') brazo de mar es el estrecho ipie Uaman de Anian.' 'The Imiians both of (.-'alifoniia and of the Florida main gave me many reports of a very g"eat lake with many towns, with a king w ho wears a ci'owu; and from the l.dce nnich gold is taken — and there are many cities with towr'rs, one of tiiem called Quivira; bearded men; horses,' etc. 'California is one of the richest laiuls in the world, with silver, gold, pearls,' etc. ^According to Oiji/hi/'.-t Aiiicr., .'{8!l-!t0, l/( i/li/ii's ( 'OfniKKirfi/Jiif, OdS.and some other works, some adventurers on the coast in Ki'JO accident;dly fell ui)on u strait, through which they were carrieil by the force of the current into tho CALIFORNIA AN ISLAND. 103 time many, but not all, mapped and dosciibod Cali- Ibiiiia as an island, extending to Cape ])lanco, in lat- itude 44 . l>ut from the same j)eiiod ma[»-makers lieo-an to nejxlect the extreme north, to forget for the most i)art the details introduced so freely hy Wytfliet, Low, and others, and to leave all north of the givat island a blank. I re[)roduce a ma]> published by Pur- chas in 1G25, Avhich is essentially the same as a Dutcli nuip of 1024.° It will be noticed that tlicre are many radical chanij^es besides that of chanLjing the i)iMiinsiilii into an island; and chiefly that the New ^Mexican names from Coronado no longer appear on the Cali- fornian coast, but only such as are found in the narra- tives of actual vovaixers. The name New ^lexico appeal's for the first time, and on a Rio del Xorte, tli.)Ugh the river still flows from the great lake and iiito western waters. Traces are seen of Drake's voy- age, though Xew Albion does not yet ap})ear; and of Oiiate's river discoveiies. Astablan should be ^Yztat- lan; but liey Coromedo, La(|ueo de Oro, and liio gulf of Ciilifornia, tlius breaking np tlio pcninsulnr thcoi-y. Accordin^^ to aa iii.sfriptii)U on a map of 1()J.> ia Piinlias, noticed lati-r, ("alifomia avjih ]rovi;d an island liy a Spanish chart taken l)y tlio l)iitch. This i i credited ti) J-o- iiiii.-t, Miiiiilf Jfi/n;i''s riii AO/i/, Itaiuil, iii. 127- •'{, wiio also relates that Ilia .sou rvas told by Fioger that he had Keen a pilot who as.aired liini he had Hailed louiid California, theenhow, 7//-'-'. Or. ((//0 h ■•'- -W^ Dutch Map, l(i24-5. in place of Herrora's — wliicli makes California a penin- sula, and is in fact substantially the same as those of Ortelius and Mercatoi-, except that the New Mexican .1 ;;4 SAT.MEROX'S STORY. 108 t;)V.ii« Clciiic, Tin'iicx, and Quivira no ]()nij;'or ap])ear oil the coast, or aiiywlK-rc else. (Quivira the province is however T'etaiiied. The strait runs nortli from Capo ]"'oituna, in latitude 55°." Ill KIiT) J*adre Ziirato Salnieron sj>okc concern in <^ the Xorthern Mvstery in connection with his historv ui' Xe\v ^fexico. lie tells liow two Spanish tishinij^- Ncsscls at Newloundland were carried hy a j^ale into the strait, oiu; hein!^^ driven into a river I'ar southward to a ^reat Mailed city, where the crow's adventures are niven in soino detail. Durinj^ the return most of them ])erislied from cold, but the ves.sel reached I'loi'ida, and one of the men came to Mexico in time to t<'ll his storv l)efore dviirj^.'' Salnieron has no (jouht that this was the city Coronado saw, that Au'iiilar would have seen had he entered the river, and "the same that Aiiian saw, and discovered, and Imported to his ^lajest}'"! The proper way to ex})loro ( Jnivira was either by land from New ^Mexico or bv water from Florida. The padre's idc^a was that the St ]jawreiicc extended to a point very near Xc^v,' ]\rexico; but he was sure there existed no strait be- tween the latter and l^'lorida. Th(3 St Lawrence is also called Strait of the Three ]3rothcrs, and was tlKUiii^ht to extend from ocean to ocean. He made inaiiy iiKjuiries among the natives about the lake of Cojialla, whence came the ancient Aztecs, and he had no doubt of its existence. It might be reached from Xew ]Mexico by Avay of the Ivio Chama and the X^avajo countrv, thence fijllowimjf a m-axt river throu'di a levcd and fertile country; or by way of Moqui, up the liio Buena Esperanza.** '' Punhci.i, //;.9 Pi'i/r!me>i, iv. S.")7. The gencr.Tl map on the fi-ontispiooo of vol. i. iilho iiijikos Califoniiii a peniimiilji. ' l'a'.]:\ all above; Capo ]\r(Miegs, or Od en of tho Sea,' with whom wore wont to trade not only tlie Canadian Indians but also certain hairless and beardless people who came in largo canoes upon tho '_<.;roat water.' There was much reason to sui^ ])oso these latter, really tho Sioux, to bo Chinese Ja})anese. And in ir):>4-5 Jean Nicolet was sent o^ Chamjjkiin to visit tho people of Ouinipog, and ])er- haps to reach tlio great water. Ho had no ditliculty in jionetratlng to the homo of the tribe be3'ond Lake Micliigan, on Croon Bay and Fox Rivor; and he went oven I'arlher, to a })oint whore, hearing of the 'great water,' tlio AV'isconsin ilowing into the Mississippi, ho believed himself to bo within three days of the sea.*" li' tho gulf was part of tho famous passage to tho Atlantic, it was obviously important that Spain should know it; and indeed some action was taken on tho matter in ]\rexico, in conscquenco of which a somewhat elaborate I'oport was made in IGoG by Alonso Jjotello y Serrano and Pedro Porter y Casa- nute, tho substance being repeated by tho latter in » f.act, Xoru.'^ Orl>!.<, 2!)1, .W2-«. >"Sco Until rjhhr.-< J fist. J)l.-('ctiii'.;' iiortht'i'ii |L''t!tn;r;ij)liy iiollii:);^^ was fx- taiitaiid acct'ssililc l»iit va!»;iU' and (-(Mitradictorv state- incuts, convcvini,^ no actual inrornuition; tliat it was oi' till! oroatcst iniportaiK-e tor tliu interests of both (iod and tlu; kin^' that the truth should ho learned hy ex])lorati()ii, (ispecially in the niulter of u not im- |>i()hai»K' interoeeani(3 eoininunieatlou hy the i^uH'. Yet no inunediate steps were tal;en in eoiLsetjUenco of this invest iLjation. One of tlie maps in Pierre D'Avitv's o-rand worl; of innT Avas decidedly hehind its time; for it not only made Califoi'nia ix peninsula, hut placed (^uivira on the coast, and ri'taint'd the olil western trend of the "/?o/(V/.) 1/ Sirrriiio mill Pmtir // Camnrilr, Dnrlitrnri'n i/iic hic'i' rmi cii 17 (h' ■"/., liiia — i!i'. fty-i nuif' iiicii'-'K.i ijiif n!^ fit'i/iri'ini ilc xi' count- iih'ii por la ('ill' I'd ni 'a «' I'lar ()()I;;< iiiul (locuiiieiitM cdujuII.mI, Bouiodf wliicli laUoriiro r.i lon^j't'i' txt.iiit. ('ii-iniia' ■, Mrmor'nd (il Alminni'c tt' /'<•;/, rv ■uuuikIuiI'Io 'i:ii(i 1)111 rii LuiK'dic'ioii li Id (Ad/Juruht, in Paclicco laid Cd.ilcinis, f.'ol. ])w., ix. '^ III past ropnrt.s, ','n-aiiil(i inccrticlinii1)ro, poe.a fl'<':^ coutradicrimics dc nnos :'i oti'os sin fiimliir.o lo.s uims, ui iijustar.ju a I'l. i circuiiitiuici.is.' 'Wo liiid (ipiiiiiins t > lie vari:)iis, iiiiil (U linitiom diverse r('s;;c'i,'t.iii'5 t!ii-i discnvory. SoMii! iiiid;('( 'alif'iniia a;i i.-laiid,()tlu'r;4 iiiainlaiiil ; f ;)in.i jiiit !■. titrait < f Aniaii, otliira di) iKit. ; u\w iii;ii1;:j <>iit a, ]ia.ssai;u to Sjiaiii l>y way <•? 1 loi ida, putlin;^ a Kt;\::t ill ( 'aliloiiiia i;i4;l ; aiiotlur indicates Jacal, v. itli iL.^ h;tiait and ll;o new invtlioni i'l'i. assuring; the iiavi'^'atiou t.) Spain. Otlii "s d :iid)t thi-i, !;ayiiij;lliat tluso iitraits k'ud tr,) to SI) iii;,'!ia, latitudo tliat t!ij ]);i;is.i;.;c! i ) inip:)s.sil)le, l)y reason of cold. Seine say iiii.s ciiki intda (the gulf';) ninn N. \v., otiieis x., olliei's N.]'.. ,!intl s'JMio that it cnd.s in three liver.s llowin'^ down from lofty (iievras. ^hlny ])Ut ( 'ape Mendocino in 40', or 42'; and one; modern siientilic author puts one Caiie Meii(h>eino in 41)' iind anotlier in ."/:* ; (jlliers, knowiny nu)hin','of latitudes, d(.,ei'ilio vast reaches of territory from ea^t to west not visited. . .^Ve Iind no iinit'orm com'se, no certain di. stance, no true latitude, soundin^,' to undeceive, nor perspective to enli;;hten.' 1 ho liudin;' of tho pa-: iejo Avill facilitate military and connnereinl eonnuunication with Spain; and in tlie opinion of diU'erent personn it will aii'oi d ii, mean i of succoring New Mtxico, reveal the dwelling-p'lac s of white ami clotlad men, liuid to the dis- covery of L/i. i/rnii. (Jiilr/r'l, the towns of the ci'ow ued kin %% i iland of the giantess, lake of f,'old, rivera Tizon and t'orrd. IW it t!:e f.io may lie liarassed 01 lioth s:as and forced to abandon daeal, and prevciitid from attacking Cali- fovuia a!id drawing aid from Morida. ' If tlu:re i.i a t-.trait, who can doulit that the foe know.! it'? The Coiide del\'allo says a ])iitcli vessel entiled the strait of Anian, and that the enemy is advancing fry r is vaguely re[)ortetl to have saik'd in ni Japan to liisbon through the strait t)f Anian and the frozen st'a." GiuJi\ Piiris. lO.'lT, {;oiicr.'il map of the, worM. In /•/., Discriiitioii Urmriih' tic r.liiir, liiii. , ;\liiult is j)t. ii. of tlio invc'iliiig, tlio innnof Aiiiiricit is iiiucli iiiiiniivcMl ; the coast ti'ciid is x. \v.; Qiiivira, find Ni'W .Mliiouai'o omittuil; tlioold lake with its seven cities is restored; iiiid t'lo lake froni wliieli t!i, Vuj. Muldoiidiln, 3!), 75. rnfsALOSA'S ILXPEDITION". 100 lie old i Xiiw copy, 'Avity on pen •dinury [ling to sold at 10 said But id ilcd, iO that Lo have Irait of ) from In /./., iliiiV', tlid liiviia iiml iiiiil Ihu It'Mstwnril. Is ill luuuy lo, 30, 75. Xcw ^iloxieo in 1002, of which Padre Freytas wrote the diary, and in wliich he ilaiined to have reached tlic original (}nivirn, far to the nortli-east of Santa Fe. A memorial seeking license for norllnrn con- (|uest was sent to the king with the narrative, which was therefore filled with every imaginary wonder of the Northei-n ]Mystery that might i'avor his enter- prise, ^lost of his statements were ftdse, c\cn if tlio whole account was not pure fiction. The Avlioje region was a veritahle paradise, ahounding in all desirable pi'oducts; and the city of Quivira was of great extent. Several thousand houses of from two to four stories were counted in the two leagues of streets traversed: and a l»arty sent to ex[>lore could not reach the end of the town. The natives told also of j)roNinces heyond, of Tliegiiayo, the province of the Ahijados, and others, so ricli that ordinary dishes were made of silver and gold— -to obtain which wealth the J'^n- glish, Frencii, and Dutch were straining every nerve. it bch(»oved Spain to act })roinptly. All the men from Fui'0[)e, Asia, Africn, and America who liad visited tliis Innd were waiting impatiently ior Don Diego to he made duke, mar(piis, and count, with com- mand over the new dominion. It was on the sea, not nioi'e th;ni two Imndrcd and fifiy leagues iVom Santa Fe on the west, north, and cast; and shi])s might visit it freely. Zaldihai's visit to the west in 1(118 is mentioned in coniirmation, tliougli he did not dare to penetrate to the mai'Vels reported to him, hy reason of te'.rihle giants to be juissed; at which cowardice l*adr(^ Lazai'o protested, as did nature, finding ex- pression in an eartluaiake.^^ ' ' /■>( »''r.i, J?(!tir'nn (til ilr' In <|iii! liast.i ny «'-'lii iinnnii.slado y )>ipli!iiilo ihluixo dil iHiiiiliir (If Ann rii-a <•>( Honilna I'li iiiiiijiai'acii.ii ilo lo <|ni; i la tloscaii, jiiaii|ili: in) 111 niiisi^'iiiran lis viio.s iii lim otnis, |icii(nii' i;_'i.ai'au < 1 Aiti^ do ••niii|\iirii.ii-.' [ luiAo iiiciiii t't s ly (if I'l'TialusaH cxiirilitidU mid I'.in'cr ilscwIiiTo. Xntliiii,^ Imt a full r(;ir(idin.iii)ii wouM dn jiistii'o to tho alj.iurdilics of tlio uairaiivo. no THE NOnXIIERX MYSTERY— COXCLUSIOX. An 'exact dcrscriptioii' of Amcrira M'as published in 1G55. The autlior admits that the qiu^stion of a separation or non-f;eparation I'roui Asia is too deep for him. The prevalent opinion seems to be that Aniei'ica is an island, separated from Anian, a province of Tar- tary, by tlie strait of that name. Noting the old reports about its havini^ been navii^ated, the writer says: "But of what credit these testimonies sliall be thoui^ht, for ou'jfht I know, the Header nnist iudn'c. I onely report them as I iinde them... I l(!ar the Proverb may somevv'hat prevail upon tbe English in "r, r:\ -./ o^ Ogiliiy'm Map, 1(17 1. this point, Quod vohunus facile credimus." Strait or no strait, liowever, California 'in its largest sense' in- cludes idl till) north-west I'egion, jind is divided into four j)rovinces: Quivirn, in tlu' extreme north — to tlu! sti'Mit, if there be one, or else to Tartary — with Acuco, '^riguex, and ('icuic, as its chief towns; f'ibola, lying bc'twoen (^>ui\ira and Xueva (lalicia; (California pi-oi )ei', that is, the southern part of the island below MARQUETTE AND LA SALLE. Ill lisliccl u of a !cp for inerica .f Tar- lic c)ld writer luill be jiul.ive. !ar the • li'^h ill •Philips/ y^'~ f/'tifituti I ,'N>-, s.«'" Tnllr [trait or lusc' in- le'd into Irth— to r— with C'ibola, lllforiua ll below nR°; and Now Albion, that part of the island above 08' uj) to Capo Blanco. The pcoplo of Cathay and China "doo trade with tlio Maritime parts and l*co[)lo of Quivii'a." The groat la];e of Totonteac is tho ni(x;irii]i/tiir Jt'/iri(ii>ir /'((/•-■ (Jr'iitti, (v( 1. y.'\. nf Iiin Atl:!S .M;i jori. Aim. t- l.;i!:'.iiii, lOli'J, givc-^ t') < 'alifmiiiii liu; t-.'.iiio Inniid ( \teut. '■0;/7''//| ,•( Ai/iirlcri, Lomloii, KiTI. ; ■ lur.-.l iiiaji, text, "JI'S it ic [., ■\v!i(,"-(' is tlio UfiUiJ ill nin^'ciiiuiit of tho jii-oviiu'cs c .t (Juivirii. ( 'iliolii, ( 'ulil'onii:i, iiml New All)iiiu; Imt llio aiillior seems to lie in iniu'li donUt aliimt tlnir rela'.ivo ito.si- tions. III tlio soiilhcru jiortions of tlio iiiaii, not oojiiod, tlio ro; ion ca .t ot tho l!io (111 Xoi'to is ciillod \. Moxioo; and 'I'iu'uas, Sooorro, and oiln r naiii'saro t'ivoii aloiii; tho rivor; whilo farthtv cast is X. (Iranada, Miih tho tnwii.i of Ziiiiy, Moi|ui, otc. Soo also Monluini.t, \iiiiiir ll'riril'/, '-'Ol ot s;of).; A/., /'/(• liiLiii:ti' \' i.i-il'rff, '2'\\ otHoi|.; all tlinn- workn lioinj; in siiliHtaiao ilio .'anio. '".S'/ia/'/.'.i' l,'/(> of Miin/iii'ilc; X. Aiiivr. llrriiir, .lainiary l.'i;'.), fi). Ill l()S')-_' IVi'c llonnopin wont \\\\ tho Mis-sissipi,! to tho falls of St Anthony, wliilo La h'iillo l.iniiiolf Mont down that livor to tlio j;ulf. ''•".jt/x'us y Loccra, Tiica^ro Aavaf, cited iu Jejj'tnji' Gnut I'rulj., 18-lU. 112 THE NORTHERN MYSTERY— CONCLUSION. lciii<^ having issued a cedilla on the subject in 1G78, Padro Alon«o de Paredes, ^vllo had been a missionary ill Now Mexico, wrote a report on the subject not cal- cuUitcd to excite enthusiasm, (^uivii-a lie placed somewhere in Texas, thougli it might extend far north- ward. There was no evidence of gokl or great cities there. Of Teguayo, or Teliuayo, a i'amous name now that had perha})s been current for a half century, nothing was known Ixyond Indian reports that it was a j)opulous kingdom containing a great lake.-" In IGSG also the English corsair 8 wan was on the coast. His chronicler, ])ampier, could not satisfy himself Mhethcr California was an island or a peninsula; nor did lie think the Spaniards desired to have the lake of California expk)red, lest foreigners should reach New jMexico, as Spaniards had escaped from New Mexico by that way at the late insurrection.-' IJaron la llontaii made his famous imaginary journey to the far west in 1G88. He ascended JA>ng iu\'er, a tributary of the ]\[ississippi, for some eighty days, p>assing natives more civilized than any at tlie east. He did not reach the head of the river, which was said to lead to a great salt lake, with populous ^"/'t(r(''/t'<, Ui'dcs ij Cnr'io-'n/i Xot'idas del ^ we ro- J/VuvVo, C'diola y oU'us vctrlojii't coil li till II /(■■•'. Ld (iiifiijiia trcdlr'toiK'e Cfjinf/i, c'c, 'JIl-'J-i. lie BJiys tluit I'lulrc Jjt'iiaviik'd in liii memorial (-f l(i;!Jh;iil riiolicu <:f the reportud pjkl lUKli-il^cr of To^uiiyi) ami (Jiiivii;i, aud cx-dovciiior I'mudiwa liinl i.jiiilo a, ]ii'(i[)i)sitioii to di:iC()Vi-i' iilul conqiKr tlioso proviucL'.;, c-illiu;,' To^ni.'i.vo '/'('td'jo. i'aroilcd fcaya that Tcj^uayo i.-i ISO Icayiics \. of Iho Ytita oounlry, v, hirh i^i G:) Ita;;iun X. of Santa l\'. 'J ho tstniit (jf j\niaii ii in T(*', tho pilf of the same iiaini! liciii;; N. r,. in tiie region of J.alirador. (,>uivira ia s. K. ^ E., toward tho Lay of Ksjilritn Santo. See nho J'n i//ii>i, JU/ncioii. ■^ /)'iii/ji'i r\-i X( ir Voijifjc, i. 'JtM, "Ji-. Oiio n,ap sccmn disposed to iiialio falifoinia a iieninsida, a« indeed he saya tho latest Spanish eliaita repicK nt it. liis general niaji, i. fnintisjiieee, niake.f Calitoinia an island, end ii I'oi tho most part like the ( );nl)iy map, save that thi^ north end of the island han three iironus, separated liy small liays. Tho scniree of the St Lawrence is li ft open m a way to suggest a sea or jiassagc to the sea. Lut a novelty i.i a va^jio eoast siretehiny between 111' and.")()'IVom ni'ar tlieeud of California \ve--t\Vin-d, named Compagnies I.;ind, and .sepni'ated from Asia jnst above Jaj-aii by a B^rait of I'rie.s. Tlii.s was published in KI'.i'.l. In Linil, J 11/ rod m/ in ad d'co- iini/i/iiiuii, (t[)2, T'M, are two mapsof KJD'J, whieh fn.in their reseml)lanee to the oiiiers need not bo eopied ; l)ut there are some ju'eidiar features. On the N. 1 :id of the island .Mie two l)ays and points with the nanu s 'l\ laiirjo ;;i:d /.'. ilc J. •!!< ''• ; while of islands in tlie strait lieiwo'en. {:<••' Aii's luap uf 1707, which is bimilur ill these respects.) In the iiitenor ror.nd the KDTO AXD S.VLVATIERRA. iia n 1G78, ;sionary not cal- placcd rnortli- at cities line now ceiituvv, it it was ivr' III iie coast. liiiiiself Ilia; nor llio lake ild reach oni New 21 ina!^,inary k-eri.ong iio eiylity ly at the , Vvliieh 1">1 luloiis :,-. I'lo saya hail i.sadc ;i liiayo T>:ttvj<>. ■, v.hii-h '\A CJ of I'.io wiiuo I, tcwaril tlio Iscd to malio I'ta rciivcuufc (ml i-i iVii llio |iul l'a;Ulr:VO is li ft o|n u ly in a va^uo a, \vc-t\\iir.l, .lapaii l>y ii \ii\o (ill (■<'"■ jlaiit'i'totli'! l)u tliL- N. I/O aiul /.'. ''" ^.clii a calK'cl (S,.' Aa's Ir ripuiul the cities and large vessels. His story was pure fiction in all that related to Long River and the far west.^" In the last decade of the century Padre Kino began his labors in Piinen'a Alta, Though his chief object was the salvation of souls, both he and Captain Mange took a deep interest in the Northern ]\[ystery, lu their tri[) to the Gila and Colorado in 1G99 they heard of a woman — perhaps the famous ^Nfaria de Jesus de Agrcda, wlu) was said to have travelled miiaculously in these parts — who long ago had pi'cached to them, and when shot had several times risen from the dead; they heard of white men who sometimes came to trade; but received no confirma- tion of Ohate's island of the giantess. Kino was inclined to disbelieve the tlieory that California was an island, and in 1700 from a hill near the head of the gulf he made some observations which strengthened his opinion, tliough they by no means settled the question, as has been erroneously claimed. In ^March 1701. padres Kino and Salvatierra stood with flange on the mainland shore of the upper gulf, in ^31° or o2', as they thought, and held an anwjahle dispata on the geographical problem. To the padres it seemed that the shores united some thirty-six kvigues farther north, in accordance with their mis- sionary desires; but Mange deemed appearances at such a distance deceitful, and from the currents chose to believe still in an entrccho. Later in the year Kino crossed the Colorado, and was still convinced that all was tlcrrafwme, tliough he did not go far enough to ])rove it. trnat lake are the now map names Aiwclics, Xila, Taos, etc. The other map (Units till! foatnn's ritod al)out the end of the island, liiit introdiioes otiiers e;|iially iinvcl. ( 'alifoi-iiiji is not oidy separated from tlii! main liy a strait, hut hy aiiiithcr strait on tlie west from t!ie 'J'( rrc tli.' Irs.'O ; ami north of ( 'alifornia, in ■">((', wlu'thcr on dry laud or in opi.'n sea is )iot apparent, ait: ( 'imihn^ and ''ihiihi! There is an ojiening from I'ort N'elsou of IIuay intoau Icy Sea. ill llii'b'.^Col. (triijiiKil I'oi/fiiiriuf KiU!) is a mapof the usual type, wliieh has thi; Mixr/mxijU J'. (Mississippi Kiver) very acenrately located, hnt exai.%'er- ntrd in len;„'th. Hetweeu this river and the strait of Aniaii, just above .">0', i^ the n;inic; .}fi mlo'iim, '■' Lfi. Ili)}it(uu Xoinrniix Vm/ni'c.'i, ITOi!. T have not seen thi' work, and iu current /•(.«"/.((( there is not the ;.lii;!itest resenihhmcc one to another, llisr. N. W. CoAHr, VuL. I. a Ill THE NORTHERN MYSTERY-CONCLUSION. E' ! In his map of this period he made Cahfornia a peninsula on the strength of his convictions. This map, a very accurate one of all these regions, too accurate for the present subject, may be seen in an- other part of this work. It was not published at the time, and was seen by but few cosmographers.^^ Hakkis' Map, 1705. ■Ufaiifje, IliM. Pimeria. 2fM), .*}01-'2; .T24, .131-3, .3.37; Apo.ofdficos Afhiic^, 28'2-r), '290-.'), 308-0; Snlmlkrrn, in CuUfoniia, KMuh. y Pro;/., 1*27-0, i.V2-3; I 'ciir;im, Xotlclax ( V(/. , ii. "tit-ii, 04- 1 OG ; A Injir, 1 1 inf. Vom/i. tie ,/f .s».s, iii. 117-18, 12-l-(i, 134-r>; Lorkmaii'x Trai: Jexitifn, i. SoO, 395; Map in Lettrea Edij'., v. 29. Sec ulso my UUt. Northern Mex. Utalcs, i. BARTHOLOMEW DE FOXTE. US rornia a 5. This ons, too n in an- d at the , 23 ^J ^^■ __r «. of B7-!), i'>-'-:5; Liii.l IT-IS, \ca Edlf., V. "% 11 The map pubhshod with ITarlrs CoUoct'ion of Voy- Ofjca ill IGO'J was reproduced l)y Heylyii in 1701 and by Harris in 1705.^* These have nameless streams flowing into the gulf of Mexico, which may be the Rio Bravo del Norte, with its mouth now trans- ferred to the proper side of the continent. Heylyn's text is similar to that of the 'exact description' of 1(!55 already noted. He is sure that California is an island, and explains how some have been led into the error of regarding it as a peninsula in the past; and he also adds that Quivira is by some placed far in the interior, by the ' back of A^irginia.' Harris has another map, which I reproduce in part. It shows La Hontan's fictitious discoveries ; northern California as in several earlier maps mentioned but not copied; and Santa Fe, on the Brave River, or Rio Bravo del Norte, llowinu: into the right gulf, but still out of the famous lake. The accoinpan^-ing frag- ment from Pieter vander Aa of 1707 explains itself so far as any explanation is l)racticablo. ^-^'^ ^i-""> i'07.- Padre Kino in 170G looked for the last time on the gulf waters and mouth of the Colorado, again CMiivincing himself, but failing to convince his com- ])auic)iis, among whom was Padre Niel, that the gulf there ended.^' In a London periodical, Monthhj ^fisccUani/, or }[('inoir>i for tlic Curious, in Ajn'il an])cared what purported to Ik.' a letter of Achniral l^aitholomew de Fonte, describing a voyage made by '■^/frj/li/n'ii r'o>.')?io.7rf(/)/j//.frontispicfe and jip.lHMJ-S, ] 1 nrri<,Xf I'lics on the Asiatic! slmri's, separating tlu; main from an oastfrn land, which, h(j\vt;vt.i',dot.'a jiiit ixtcnd eastward to Anierioa, as in Danipier's map. '■'Ajiiinfolieus Aj'iiia'-<, 3'2.'{-(i; Xiil, Ainiiituniifiiliis. 7S. The latter i)uta the visit ill 1705, and says that us there waa no proof, 'iiuedo la eosa en opinion. ' IP IIG THE NORTHERN MYSTERY— CONCLUSION. Lim in 1G40. It was partl,y in the first and partly in tlio third pcrscvi; no rotbronoo was niado by the editors to any original from which it might have been translated; but they mentioned an accompany- ing chart, not i)ublished and never heard (jf again. It was doubtless a deliberate hoax, prepared at the time by some one who had a superficial acquaintance with Spanish -American affairs; but, for the discussions to which it gave rise, the story must be noticed here, and is in substance as follows; Fonte sailed from the ' Calo' of Lima April 3, 1040, with four vessels, under orders from Spain and the viceroys, issued because of information that Boston navigators had been seeking the northern passage. Diego Penalosa was vice-admiral of the ficet; and tlie other two commanders were Pedro do Bonardye, t)r Baniarda, and Felipe de Ronquillo. They touched at various [)()ints, and took a master and six mariners at Comj)()stela. On this master's o[)inion that Cali- fornia was an island, Penalosa, son of the sister of Don Luis de Haro, resolved to learn tlie truth, and his vessel left the fieet on the 10th of May. Fonto with three ships went on and b}' June 14th reached the river Reyes, in latitude 53°. He sailed about two hundred and sixty leagues in crooked channels among the islands of the Archipelagus de St Lazarus; and on June 2'2d sent Captain Barnarda up a fair ri^•er. Barnarda sailed n., n. n. e., and n. w., to a great lake full of islands, named Lake Valasco. Here he left his ship between the island Bai-narda and the })eninsula Conihasset, and in three Indian boats sailed 140 leagues w. and 430 leagues k. n. e,, to latitude 77 . Meanwhile Fonte sailed up the river Ileyes north- eastward to a town of Conosset, on tlie south side of Lake Belle, where some Jesuit missionaries with hiiu had been foi- two years. In the same region there was a river do Haro. At Conosset the admiral ret!ei\ed a letter from Barnarda, dated June '27th, having entered Lake Belle June 22d with his two ships. July FRUITS OF PEfsALOSA'S STOItY. Ilf 1st lie sailed, perhaps in Ixmts, down tlio river Par- nientiers, passinj,' eight falls, until, July Gth, he reached lake Fonte, which was GO by 100 leagues, and well supplied with islands. Then he sailed, July 14-17, eastward through a lake called Estrecho de llon(|uillo to an Indian town, where he heard of a large shi}), which on sailing to it he found to be a Boston ship, Cajjtain Shapley, owned by Scinior Gil^bons, major- general of !Maltechusets. Instead of capturing this craft as a prize Fonte generously made presents to otHcers and men, and bought Shaj)ley's tine charts and journals. Then he returned, August (5-1 G, to Conosset, where on the 20th he received another letter of Au- gust 1 1th from Barnarda. That officer had gone so far as to })rove that there was no passage by Davis Strait, lie had reached 79'', and one of his men had been led by the natives to the head of Davis Strait, which terminated in a fresh-water lake in 80°, beyond which A\ere high mountains and ice. By a third letter liarnarda announced his arrival at ]Minhanset and the ])ort of Arena, on the river Rej'es, August 29th; and thither Fonte with great stores of salt provisions and one hundred hogsheads of maize returned from Lake ]]elle Septeml)er 2-5. From this point the tieet sailed homeward, having proved that there was no north- west passage. Absurd as all this appears related en resume, it is still more so in the details, many of which are unin- telligible. The story was founded i)robaI)ly, if it had any foundation, on something in one of I-^enalosa'.s ahsurd memorials. No such vovaijfc was over made, even if such a man as Fonte ever lived ;'^'^ no such '''' Antonio I'lloa in a letter to Xavarri'to in \~\)'2. X(triirtolonit5 de la ]''uente, who was ilespiitilied liy tlio \ii('r()y (,f IVvn iu eon.se(jueuce of a report that a Spanisli sessel liad fomi-, being i>rinted in the latter year. J)v I'lclc, Exiilicatioii 3. Tliey included Kussiaii and Jajvinesu discoveries. A rival geographer, M. Vangondy, (>h.ifrrufionn cr'itlquoK siir hs iioimttca ifcronrirtm (if. I'AiliHtml !)<• lit J-'uenti', I'aris, 17">3, took upon himself to refute De I'lsle's arguments at the time. These memoirs, translated into Spanish and supplemented by long editorial connnei:*.s in which Padre IJuriel expensed tlie lictitious character of tlic narrative, wei-o printed, 17.")7, in Vciieijas, Xotirinti ile Citl., in. 296-4.30. In 17(iS the autlior oi Jcfffi-jfit' (Irecit Proliuhiliti/ of a Northirc»t Pn-tmitit' , deemed neither the letter nor the «lefenco just referred to worthy of serious refutation. Clavigero, Storid dclla Vrtl., i. Iti3, also declared it a hoax in 17'.IS. ]>ut Fleurieu in I71I7, j1/w<7(rt;((/, Voi/mii', iutrod., xxi.-xlii., could not realize the force of Forster's argument, and was himself disposed to believe iu Fonte's voyage, or at least that he actually reached t)ie archipelago and entrance of a great river. This author ami many others are unduly iutlueuced by the absurd idea that Spain made secret explorations and kept the results a profound mystery. Navarrcte in 1802, SPANISH VIEWS. 110 A Spanish dcscri[)tioii of America in 1710 ilescribes tlio strait as discovcrod by Hudson and Frobishor; Quivira as called Now Albion, in latitude 40^, by l3rake; and Anian as reacliin<^ the Arctic circle, and even to Berg, the most northern kingdom of all; but udniits that these coasts are not well known.^** Ca])tain Woodes Rogers, after his cruise in 1709-10, inclined to the belief that California was joined to the main, notwithstanding the reports of its circumnavigation, for he saw Spaniards who had sailed up the gulf to 42 where they found shoal water. "But the Sjxm- itifds having more Territories in this Part of the Woild than they know how to manage, they are not curious of further Discoveries." The map in Kogers' work, however, is one of the usual type, making Cali- fornia an island.^' The French geographer De I'lslc discussed the question in 1715, reaching the conclusion that there were no means of deciding between island and peninsula, and announcing that thereft)re he had ill his own maps left the coast line broken at Mendo- cino and the Vermilion Sea.** Siifil y Mex.f Vlage, Ixxvi.-vii., declared the voyage apociyphal, and in hia yiai/in Ajxic, 134-01, gave his views at greater length ; yet lie made public the letti'i' of Ulloa already noticed, the only documeut that has ever appeared ti) even suggest a remote possibility that Fonte's story was founded on fact. Iiurnuy, (Jliron. JJixt. Vvi/., 184-9.'), 1813, does not luidertake to defend the narrative, which he prints in full, but is inclined to look at it with some indulgence and to consider the arguments in its favor worthy of some credit. Lahaipe, Ahriijc des Voijaijes, xvi. 30-44, also was disposed to credit the stoiy as nut altogether a fiction in 1816. The Chevalier Lapic in 1821, Nomrlles All. ill's I'oij., xi. 28-56, in turn became the champion of Fonte's cause. He makes the route of Fonte extend by channels, rivers — including a part of the -Mackenzie — and lakes, from the I'acilic coast, in about 58^ to Chestertield Inlet of Hudson liay. Bavnarda entered in tlie same latitude l)y the Linn channel, or Rio Haro, wen north into Lake Valasco, part of tlie Polar Sea, then eastward in that sea nearly to lialKn liay and back, and linally up into the ley Ocean and eastward nearly to HOT. The north-western porti(jns of IJiinuirda's route, according to tliis author, arc shown by on his map. And linally in 1839 the Xorth Amerienn I'irii'ic, Ixviii. 12!)-.'J2, was permitted liy its conscience to gratify its Americanism to the extent of hinting that there was at least room for argument in Fonte's favor. '^*'Ai)ii'rlcn, Detcr'qicion, MS., 73, 128-!), with reference to a treatise called }\oiii 11(1 ranntni trauiitim unjtru Amrrlrnm in ('hlnam JJiictiiri. '^'•' A'o>/f r,s' Crniihiij Voij. lioinnl the World, 312-13. The map has alsotheCom- pany's land separated by a strait from Asia, but not extending far eastward. ■'" I^i'th'e de M. De riKie toitchaiit la Cnli/oniie, in Voyaijes an Xord, RvriuU, iii. 268-71. This writer seems to have had no clear idea of the earliest ex- IJO TlIK NORTIIKRN MYSTKRY-CONTLUSIOX. ]^i(lre Luis Velarde, a i-ectorinissionai'v of iKirtlicni Soiiora, wrote his views of northern i^eo^rapliy about 1710, and very accurately so far as the known rei^ions wore concerned. Of tho (Colorado he savs: "We know not in what latitude it rises; some say in the sierra of tho Gran Teijfuayo; others in the (Iran Quivira — kinj^donis which many j^eoLrra))hers locate in this northern America Incognita, and about which many confused rumors are current in NtiW jNIexico; and others near the seven caves or cities from which canu! the jMexican nation." To the ([uestion of island or peninsula Velarde gave much attentitMi, j (lacing himself scjuarely on the record with Padre Campos, his associate, as a partisan of the island theory, in spite of Kino's belief to the contrary. The two had hitely returned from the guif coast, where they had .satisfied themselves that Kino's observations could not liave been conclusive; both had repeatedly questioned tho Pimas and Yumas, who insisted that there was a strait, and reported the washing-ashore on the gidf coast of many articles that must liavc come l)y tlio strait. Padre Velarde was wel^ acquainted with cur- rent theories on the Northern Mystery; had before him nairatives of real and pretended expeditions; and had seen some okl Dutch maps; but ho was not certain whether the strait joined the Pacific above 40', or turned eastward to Newfoundland or Florida; nor did he vouch for all Pima tales, as that of a country when^ men had only one foot and women two, though even this v.ere not in philosophy impossible. "Lo cierto OS (jue hay mucho incognito per esta America Sep- tentrional."''* plorations, ami of tho prevalent belief from ir)40 to 1010 that California was a iioiiinsula. lie says the earliest maps mailo it an islaiMl ; but no siieh maps arc extant, lie says tlie Spaniards of late tliink it an island, but tliat oilier^ di) not aeeept tliat theory, whicii is not true. Indeid, though no fault ciin l)o found with Ilia eonelusions, tliey were bunglingly founded on a very few of the authorities then existing. '•'^I'l/nrdi, jMscrijicioii. JJi.^f., .347, .1.")0-7, .3S8-0, with a map originally, which is not extitnt. The autiior refuses to eredit Drake witli liaving saileil j'ound California, llnding a lake of gold, a walled eity, and a crowned king! but thinks another English pilot may hu\'o ascended the strait to 'M'. lie SIOXIFICANT I\Cir)KNT.'=». m A scries of l)rief dt'tadu'd itoiuH is nil tliat our t(>[ii<' pi'tsents for several deciuK's, items the enforced j^i'oiipiiiii^ of which would servo no j^ooeiiinsula, notwithstanding the contrary oi)inion of Mange, Xiel, Campos, Velarde, and the rest.^* Not all the world at t)nco accepted this solution of the enigma; but a peninsula appeared on the best maps IVom this time; and even the great De I'lslo so made ui> his mind.''' Cai)tnin Shelvockc, who in 1721-2 found no end of iiold dust in California, had no means of deciding iintts tin; lilmulcr on mnny maps of niuking tho Rio del Xorte empty into the ,L;iilf i)f Cjilifornia. In 1715 tlic Mannu's do San ^liguel ilo Agiiayo souj.^lit liitii.sL' to txplori; < Ji'un Qiiivira, wliicii wa.s a, imiiitli's journey from some ])!uco ill 'i'cxas, lyinj,'on tlie slope of a liill that was liatiii'il liy a lake. This had heen Iriiiiu'd Ironi one .Jose Urnitia, who had lived in Texas. Dor. Ifist/J'cxni, AIS., l,).V;t. In ITISor thereahout I'adre .luun Anuuidi) Xiel wrote his A juinta- ///(■' //^ov,]ip.7S, SO-1, 87, HI, on the earlier work of I'adi-e Salnieron, wliieli he npriiiliiees. t)n the Mystery, however, ho is cpiite as much in the ilark as his predecessor, whom lie Itlames unjustly for not having cleared u]) some of its darkest points. Niel identities the mouth of the Kio C'armelo with JJrako I'liiy, iiiid iiliiecs it opposite the mouth of tlie ( 'olorado Kiver, in 41! lie ri,L;:ird.s ( 'aiil'oi'nia as an island, having made p;'rsonal ol)servatioiis on tlie sulijcit with I'adre Kino in 170r)-(5. IJcgardin'/ tlu^ (^hiivirans and .\ijaos as ilwiliiiig in the region north of Texas, he locates tin' l:uiious kingdom of Tiudiui still farther north, in 50', and the lake of Copula m the sumo latitudi' west of Tindan. •'- lliarnc'ti Joitri'cy, xxviii. ^'(V//-nr\- 7V.((v/.s 1!)2-.1. ^' .H>e Annals of Ikja Califoniia, in an earlier volume of this scries. "■' 1'wiss, Oreijoii (Jucat., 04, cites a map of De ITsle of 17-- with the peninsula. 122 THE NORTHERN MYSTERY— CONCLUSION. between island and peninsula, cither from his own observations or those of others, En^rlishnien having no "time nor power to go about the diseovery of it," and the Spaniards having grown " indolent and incu- rious." His ma]), however, is one of the old type, similar to that of Dampier and Rogers, showing an island. Shelvocke also believed "that America and Asia are joined l)y a tract of land to the northward."*' 1+ was in 1722 that Daniel Coxe let loose his powerful imagination on north-western geography, licferring to several otherwise unkn(Avn expeditions from New England to New Mexico and up the Missouri, lie de- scribes the northern branches of that river as " inter- woven with other branches which have a contrary course, proceeding to the west, and empty themselves into a vast lake, wliose waters by aiiother great river disembogue into the South Sea. The Indians affirm they see great ships sailing in that lake, twenty times bijiirer than their canoes." The Missouri "hath a course of 500 miles, navigable to its heads or springs, and which proceeds from a ridge of hills somewhat nortii of New Mexico, passable by horse, foot, or wagon in less than half a day," to the rivers running into the sj^reat lake. Besides there was Hontan's Jjonoi!iis' Mai\ 17U. l^iiglisli subsefjuently reached the lake. Coxe lias i>(»t been faii-ly tieated. Mis lank as a liar should lie near that of Fuca, ^laldonado, and the unknown author of Fonte's letter.'*^ "C'oxvj* Dtntrijition of the IhnjlUh province of Carolana, Loudon, 172*2; 124 THE NORTHERN MYSTERY— CONCLUSION. ]\I()ta Paclilla in 1742 s[»eaks of California as sup- posed to be an island''*' In 1744 Artlmr Dobbs pub- lished his views on a north-west passage in a work whose title, as aj)pended in a note, sufficiently explains its purport.^* JJobbs was less visionary than some earlier advocates of his cause, l)ut was disposed to credit the tale of Fonte's discoveries. "All nature •> *■ rcALIFORNl^y KrssiAV f'liAKT, 1741. iilso i-o]irinte(l in FirnrliK Ilisf. (\,!. Lmiinmiiii, ii. '2.10-3, 2.")3-fl. St:c iil*) /W,/,.' Ari-oinit 1 1(», l.".:{, ICIi; !iii.l .Vo/v7t Anur. Jtirinr, l.wiii. l(U-4. It i.sto lio iiDtcil, liiiwcver. that i''ri.'i!ili'.s i'(>|iy (Idcs not ai,'r(VM\ ith tliat i nothing at all nf ( dm 's own discoxciii's. In \f)lili>f, (iiOij. I'liir., I'aiis, 17-">, \ . ■'i!'"-'. (uiitoniiii is (lisi'iilpcil as dimlit- li'ss an island ; at wliiili dpinidn ."t that date surprise is cxpitsscd in J^'xk- iiKiii's 7'iiir. ./r'\///Vv, i. ;!JS !(. Ciiiiplii'll, Sjnifi. .\iii., S'.\, notos a Duttli liiap of IT-"!' in wliicli ( 'aliftitiiiu is n )ii'c,-.cnti'd as a peninsula. ■•.!/.-/.( J',tilil (I, ll'fHi. X. <;aii,-hi, 177, :!'•!. ^'■' hiihlis. All Arroiiiif of' III ■ CniiD/i'ii'i i((/Jtiiiiiiiii III Hinhnii'M rinij. . .irith on. (llistfiirl (./' Ciijif. Miililli >iri's .loiiridl/, dint Olisi irilfidii.'l 11/11111 li'< tti lul I'ioi' . . ..1 /»'/. r /rum li'irllnHinn.iii ay. I give a reduction of Dohbs' ma]), which ^\■as largely founded on leports of a Canadian Indian aanied Joseph La France, though it also contains Baron La Houtan's protended discoveries.*" The author firmly )>elievcd that !!Middlcton and others had by ignorance or negligence missed the strait; or, more likely, having found it, haied from the ori;rinal i ihv Itussiiui anhivis, shuws tho t ahovc! C'alitoinia as in the adjoined sketch. ])iil>l)S also cites the I'rencli writer .Icninic: ''I'he wivaL'es say, that after travelling .some Months to tho W. s. w. |im !i Ntrait froin JIud.so'; I5iiy| tiiey imiuo to tho Sea, upon vliich tlieysinv great \'eascls, with men who had ISeurda aud Ld\}s, who gather (juld oa 111" Shore (p. 1!)). " \''ii< :i(is. Xnf. Cni., ii. :m. '•I'X'hIiiitiii; litliuiuii, 6.W-8. 12G THE NORTHERN MYSTERY— CONCLUSION. l! ' I will, for the conversion of the whole continent as far as Japan, Yerclo, or Tartary!"** and Villa Senor y Sanchez, giving in 174S tlie first printed account of Consag's trij), and declaring the southern part of the mystery a^ an end, turned liis attention fartlier north, and by a process of reasoning satisfactory to liiniself showed that the American foast just above 44^ turned westward to the strait of Uriz, by which it was sepa- rated from the Asiatic land of Hezo, and through which the Dutcli had sailed on various occasions. What had been mistaken for the strait of Aniaii in past years was really tlie mouth of the great river of San Antonio flowing from the north and into the sea just above Cape ]\Iendocino, where tlie coast turns westward. This was certainly a novel theory, or rather a very old one revived." In 1748 Henry Ellis publislicd his narrative of the vovaLre of tlie JJohhs (jdllcn and Ca/itni'iu'a to Hud- son Bay; and he joined to it an histoi'ical account of previous attempts to find the north-west })assage, and a statement of the agreements on which the existence of such a })assage was founded. Tlie work was more com])lete than any earlier <>neon the subject; and tlie author, though somewhat too indulgent to tlie trav- ellers whose tales favored his theories, di1' i>y y .'SO in London who had met a Dutcliman wh having bt-en diiven to the coast of California had found that country to be either an island or peninsulji, aceorchng as the tide was high or low. AEoivover, the coast above California trended north-east, a verv stronir arirument in fa vol' of a iiassa''i know of the liussiau discoverie :i':ii IS (Ik I not 45 In 1741) another ■"■SciU'lniair's Irttcrnf Marcli'iO, 1747, in A)c. /f!rii|)iiiiniili-i|i0"l iiii-^iili rtJiiiii-'t (III till r, iur a ixnumv of Kll la Mori t i RUSSIAN DISCOVERIES. 187 worlv on the same tojiic was puMisliofl, the ari^umont beiiiu^ f'onncU^d mainly on observations of the tidal cuiTcnts/" Before 1750 the Russians had made from the north- west important American discoveries, whicli mate- liallv circumscribed the Xorthern ^lystery in tliat direction. Thev liad (Uscovered the real strait, and had proved the existence of a larj^e body of land east of northern Asia, which had been visited at several different j)oints. ]3ut l>etween these j)oints, and south of the southernmost, there was still room for many iiiteroceanic j)assages. Accordinirly in 17J0-.'{ Del'Islo and Ihiaciie took up the pretended discoveries of Fonte, [jresentini^ such facts and rumors as could bo matle to sustain their theory as alreadv noted, and coiicoctinu^ a map, wliich I append, and the alisurdi- tic.-> of which are sufficiently ap[)arent without expla- nation." Still had California a foothold for cosmofrraphical inystcjy; for in 1751 Captain Salvad(n* in a rejtort to tlie kinu^ statetl that the Colorado River l)efore reach- inn' tlie ifixW sent off a branch to the Pacific Ocean, which branch was in realitv the Rio de Filipinos or Rio Carmelo. Padre Xiel had made the Coloiado empty into the strait o|)posit(; the Carmelo, so that, iit»w there was no strait, Salvado)''s theorv was not A\itliout its plausibility. Tliis, with its subse(pient drvclopniejit of 1774, when Caj)taiii Anza wrote Irom the (Villi of a i'e[)ort of tile natives that a branch of "' III ii.'n lie In Ctirti', Paris, 17">-. I takt? a i'cii)y frtim tliat inililislicil ill 17(il liv .Iclli'iys in Miitln-'s I'n//. .Is/.i In .1 it n also iit Mt' ( Inn k(.f, III Willi h tl u- aiitlioi- s llllr «'\|«'ili hi'itluT jiartiiipiitiMl, is «lici\oi, hut lu't that of iH'riiij.', in tho si tiipii. Ciiats, 1, wivn: 'Tlifsi! MisiMita liiiliaim tell us siiiuu vi.sidiiary stoivyrtof Kliijisaiul iiu'ii ' a. dilii'iciit iiiakt;niiil fdiiiplcctiDii fivinii'iitiiit; tlu'iv sliiircM | Wiiii|n'L;gi)ii l.ak<'|, for tlifv aro i»)sitivo this lake is e»!ks, and sjiils, undi.tluT iimtturs, both tcdiotw und thcsoiiie, without wc Imd better giouuJs.* I II' il: I It ;! 128 THE NORTHERN MYSTERY— CONCLUSION. De i/Isle's Map, 1752. EARLY SAILING DIRECTIONS. 129 the C(^l(irado ran westward and northward, niakinjj^ tlie sn"'''./''(/(., iii. I!t0-1 ; Arririi-i/i(,Cri'iiii-'i,4')'2 '.i. Ini 'luircliiir.i<'i)l. I'o//., viii. (ii).'<, is 11 map latitude •}•"», inilmlin,' \i\v Allimn. (iiiistiniani's atlas of 17"'") jnakcs Califoiiiiaan i.-land rcaildiii; to latitudi^ '17 '. Mii,'(l in r7i)4 tries to pro\o tliat it is not true that ('alilmnia, uv\ inu to tho w inds and tides, is .sometimes ii ]ieuiasnhi and at oth Bpi'ko of a geoirraphy puhli.'-hed in London in 181',) ill whi.'li California i.s desorli)ed and mapped as an i^!:ili !. *'^ Ciihi-irn Jliiciio, SiiiT'jnyiini ]'.-i/i,i riftlivn. Manila, 17.*14. '•'"I'l III ijim, N- /'■ iiiii ill' Id < 'ill., ^iiidrid, 17.'>7; vol. iii. is devoted to >,'<'"!,'■ vaphy and a ictnt.iiion of eailii r llitions; m.ipat i ml. i;e;,'erl"s Xnr/iriihliii, 177-, also did i.iaih to ijrcnl.ile aeeiirute ideas of Culifuriiia geii^'nipliy, lUni. X. W. Lo.iar, VuL. I. U 130 THE XORTHERN MYSTERY-CONCLUSION. New ^Mexico towards the north for 50 deu^rces? Ex- ce})t what has hccii learned on our Atlantic side, and the little made known hy llu.ssian voya;LJ^es in the South Sea, I readily re[)ly in a word, which causes mo no shame nor ought to any good man, Ignoro, Nescio, Yo no lo se." Japanese Map, ITtil. With ^Tullcr's narrative of the Russian discoveries TJKHnas Jefferys, ge(\', while a possihle river runs I'artlier south to Pro de Anno nuevo; but in the otlier the <;reat river is called 8t Charles, or Assiniboels, terniinatini^ at tlu; mountains of Priu'lit Stones: while the southern river is called lliver of the West, beinii* doubtfullv con- nccted throu^di Pike's lake and INIanton's river with the Missouri. The lower course of these streams into the Pacific is not shown except as on tlio other ma}). The main coast above 50 is "supposed to be the Fou-Sanj.^ of the Chinese." A fourth maj) in this work is one that purports to be of Japanese origin, which I copy.'^^ In 17()8 the same Jeffervs published and furnished ma})s foi' another work, wi'itten perhaps by Theodore Swaine ])rage, and devoted to the defence of Fonte's voyage by an enthusiastic believer in the north-west ])assage. I rej)roduce the general map, which mt only shows De I'lsle's ideas of Fonte's discoveries as modified by the royal geogni])her, but also contains the genei'al features <-)f Jelferys' earlier maps, as already described. The western portions not shown on \uy cojiy are the llussian discoveiies, of which details arc given in another volume. It will be seen that in 1 7(]'^ it was easier to find the interoccanic pa.ssage than to miss it; but earthquakes or something have since changed the face of nature in that resjion."^ It was in 17()G-8 that J. Carver, the American traveller, made his visit to the upper Mississip})i and '•^Miil/ir'n Vo'ift'ji'H from Aim to Amfrlca. . . Trnwlnti'd from the l/i'jh /)>''. h of S. MiilUr. Ldiuloii. ITC'I. Loiiy the .stimdanl .nutliority on tlio Kusmuu iliscdvurii-:,. 'J'Ik' nv.xy is 'taken from a.lapuni'MO map of the world brou;,'iit over liy KcnijiiVr ami lato in tiiu Musii'uni of Sr Han^ Sloano.' "-i/r.'/i ;•//.■(■ Till' (I'rciit /'rnl,(i/ii/(/i/ (f <■ f'unfi. London, I'tiS. On this nia;>. as on .Foli'oiys' earliir ones, are marked the ' Mouutuiua of Bright Stoms lueutioned iu the nuiiiof the Indian Ochagach.' FACT SUCCREDIXa FAXCY. 133 the St Picrro; and in his hook, puhllshed ton years Intel', lie joined to liis adventures an account of tar wcstei'n <4'eo^ra|)hy, purporlini^ to he I'ounded on statements of the Indians to the author, hut which iiii'^ht with his maj) have been compiled from earlier traditions, texts, and maps, as the reader will per- ceive. Nor docs the map agree altogether with the Cauvek's Map, 177S. narrative. Carver's groat achievement, however, was the invention of a new name for the mythic 'liver of the Vtcst ' Ho called it the Oregon. The name sounded well, was adopted b}' the jtoet Biyant in his iiuiiiortal Thanatopxis, and became permanent.'^ •"' < 'iinrr\t TrrtrdH tlirnw/h the Inti-rior Parts of Xor/li-A tiifrira hi the i/pnrs !>;<:, nor, am/ j:gS. Loiulon, 177S. Scc csnecially i\. 7l)~7, 1 1 7--*2,' .U"-'. H(j nainca ' tho liiver Oreguu [elsewhere ealled Orcj^iinJ, or the River of the I 184 Tin; xonTHKnx mvsti:i:v roxci.iNioy. We liavc now tvuclwd the jK'iiod wlicii nctiiiil ('XiiloralKtii caint' to the nid (tf coiijcctin'e; and here, since it is not my |>reseiit )>uii»ose either to speaU of Alaskan discovi-ries or to I'ollow the seaivh I'lr th(! iioi-th-west pnssaife in Aretie waters, the topic of tin' Nortlurn .Nlystery may properly he (hop)**' I. 'I'he only connection hetwei-n the mystery and the voy- ages of the sncccedinn' ])ei'iod, to l)e noticed in t he next, chapter, is that the foiniei- was e of lindin^' ii( h kingdoms thei-e: hut if, as was helieved hy many, there was a stiait, it was of course im|)ortant f .r S])ain to coiiti'ol the l'aci!ic entrance; iind if thei'.- was no strait, thei-e min'ht he a <(reat I'ivir i^'ivin.;' access hy water to the regions of Ne'v Mexico. Thi.-i was till- last phase iA' the mystery in Spanish eyes; and on its deaiiniL;' u|> they ))romptly retiix'd, leavinijf the north to iCnylish, Americans, and Ixiissians. 11ie natnr<' of tlu- coast, with its complicati'd net-work ot' islands and channels, r^-ndered it necessary to eXj)lor(; every nook and corner beKa'o it could he ahstJutilv West, tli;it f.ills into tlic Pacilic Oci'iin at tlic straits nf Aiiiiiiiii' H'i one of tli(^ fdur '^n-At rixcrs whicli, lisiin; within a few icavni's nf cucli dIIht. iIhw ivspc'ctivi'ly into llnibon I'.ay, Atlanliu Oi.'can, (iiilf U(' of a j^i'cat laUr, lar;,'<'r than Sii|)( rior, n. \v. of WiniR'iUTJv, wliiili ( ':ii'\rr thinks to l)o 'the .\'i'hi|)( lajjoor Kniken wati'i's tlint form the eoiinntinicMtion lietween lludsoii'.s l>ay and the northciii parts of tlie I'acitic Ocean.' 'I'iic j,'rcat I'ange of nioiintains reached 47 oi'4S ; that part «»f tiie ranj;e west of the St I'iei'ie was called the Shiiiini,' Mountains, liein^' covered with laru'c ei'ystals, Jind douhtless rich u: f.;old ami silvii-; while some (»f tlu! nations farther west ' have ;,'old s(. plenty anioiij,' tluin that they ni:;ke their most eonnnon \itensils of it' — snpposed to lie Mexican trilies thai escaped nortliwaid at the coniniest. ' 'J'o the west of these moinitains, when explored liy fiiture Colnmhuses or l!aleii.'lis, may he found otiier lakanisli govei-unient vi'ssel. the, 2^orth<'rn ('roini, jiccurding to u Danish periodical cited l>y Niivarrctc, I'iaijcn Ajidc, 177. CERTAIN SUMMARIKS. MciUMl 1(1 llt'I'C, jic;ik «it r,)!- till! I' of till! I. TIh" lif voy- (lir nv\\ I 11 U|> I'V (ly MH-k- ; 1(1 timl WM-i the riicy hud If imrtli; lini;- ri( U )V many, rt.-.nt I'.r ir tli<-i'>' IT .u'ivii!';' CO. Tlli^ isli I'yi'^; Kaviivj;' iiis. Till' -work <»t" ) (Xitlon) )Si;lutt'ly 111" l\!i OIU" llf (ilhcr, llow anil I'.icil'n" lior, N. \v. of I waters lliMt •ni jiai-ts of ; that li:iit Itailis, 1)1 ili;^ wllilc snllir tiny iii;;li'- Iti'il'i-'M tli'"'^ ItaiiiM, wlirii (llu'S, V'W'VS, \,( lifi'; :iii4 this sL'iii'^. lajis that iif VrsSJ'l. till! I Niivurrctc, Ja.wiku's Map, 1782. 13G THE NORTIIERX MYSTERY-CONCLUSION. certain that no inland passac^c existed; therefore there was room for donl)t and discussion not only until I son, hut throui^liout tlie next <|uarter century, duriui^ which period a[»[)eared many of the works cited in this chaj)ter. The j^eiieral summaries of Forster and Fk'urieu appeared hefore IHOO; later ones wero those of Xavarrete in IHO'J and I84i), of Amoretti in 1 8 1 1 , of Burney in 1 S 1 :), (»f La[)ie in 1 Sii I, of tlie Xorlli, Aiiti'i'lciin J'rriein in IH'.V.), and of (ireenhow and Twiss in 184(5. ^Many maps miL;ht yet be cited to illustrate 1k)\v slow wero geographers to take full advantage of new iliscovcries; hut no new theories were evolved, and errors were either the resvdt of negligiMice or were of lo(\d signification only. I present Janvier's map, jjuhhsju'd in ]*aris in 1782. It is somewhat it- markahle, as anotlicr writer has said in uihstance,"' that in California, Xt^vada, Arizona, and Ftah, th ; ^■('ry regions iii whicli the wonderi'ul riches of Cihola, 0\ uvu'a, 'J eu'uavo, an( Itl le un at lal vc weri! ancien tly located hy hhmdering conjecture and groundless false- liood, should have been actually found in later tiuiea the PAnAiXF.T,— Fra>;- ciH Duam:— His VovAfiK— Dutkuknt Vkusioss— Tub I'AMors Vov- a<;r — TiiK \V(iiu.D K\coMi'As.si;i) — ri.KTCHK.u's I'ai.sk.iioous — Tun Limit (avnot hk I'ixkd — Draki; I'ossiiitA' IIkaciikd LATiTruK rnurv- tiii;i:k— And was tmk Discovkkkr of OuKiiox — Gau's Vovaci; mit KXTKNI'lNf! TO XoUTIlKitN WaTKIIH— SKIlASTtAX VlZfAIXO AND MaUTIV Aiirii.Ai PiiiNT St (iKfiitor, i\ 41' 4r>', the .Voutiikkn Limit - Ri;- VIVAI, or ICXIM.OUATION IMjF.K (AUU)S IIL — J^Xl'KMTION" OF JiAN I'liui:/. TO Ij.\TiTr:>K Firrv-FivE — IxsTurcTioNs and Uksi-lts — Xamks Ari'i.iKii— I\Ti;iu'nii:sF. wrni Inoianm— I>is((ivkuy of Xootka— 'I'iik Whom: CuAsr IMscovf.kkd — Sfcond Kai'i.ouatioN' r.NDKii IJursn IIWF.TA TO Tin, I'ollTVMNTII PAKALLF-L— FlKST LA.NmXc; IN OuECON — SCVKN Sl'AMAKUS KlI.I.KI) IIY INDIANS— 1 lIsr'OVEUY OF TIIF. CoLrMIHA — VoYAOK OF r.o|)i:(iA Y ClADUA, AFTKK I'AUTIXO FllOM lIlX'KTA, TO THU FlITY-lUtillTII PaUALLKL. Wi; now roino to iliv actual exploration of tlio Pacitic (.'oast above latitiule forty-two. The iirst epoch of that e\plorati<»n extends clironolojifioally down to 1774, and iii('l',!dv,>> four ex|)editions only: those of Ferrelo in l.Vi-'l, cf Drake; in I r)7!>, of ( Jah in laSt, nnd of \'i/(,iino and A^uilar in lOU;?. These are the only voy;iLj;'es, if we except the apocryphal one ean navii^ators rriM'Iud, or claimed to reach, with any de<>"re(! of iilinisihilitv, the Oreufon Territorv. All r,[' them he- loii<>- more doselv to the annals dl the south than o|' the iioith, and have therefore het-n fully descrii>ed in earlier Aohuues of this series, jjartolonn; Ferrelo, the successor of Juan liodri- g'liez Cuhrillo, conunanding two small vessels, the ^SalL i i: 133 DISCOVERY OF THE NORTHWEST COAST. S'flrcJo)' and }'icf(H'ii(, (Icsijatt'liud 1)V tlic Spanish j^oNi'i-iimoiit to explore! as I'ar northward as possiMo, \)L'\U'^ the first JCuropean cral't to sail on Califoi-nian waters, loft Capo IMnos, in latitude 31)^ as he l»e- licved, Fehruaiy 2"), l.Vlo. For three days lu; lau noi'lh- westward, one ni^'ht's sailinj^ meanwhile heinij southward, with a stron^^ south-w^'st wind, luitil on the !iSth he was in latitude 4;)'. ])uriniL,^ one niL;ht he kei)t on north-westward, hut on ^lai-ch 1st was struck by a jrale and riiitfr., xiv. |(i."> 111, aiul in //"riiln, <'', in .'^r'il i/ ^^l .ii'inifi,l'iiiiii\ xsix. xxxvi.; Jil., I'lmji x Aiiiii'.,',V2 4; Tiii/lnr'.t I'iixl Vitiimjo to I III' ( 'mitt 0/ ('ill . . Ill/ < 'ilhril/u ; Hni'lii >/'■■< Clhiiii. lii^t., i. '-'l'O-.'i ; uliil 7,'/Y(IM aiiil III ii^liiiic, TraiLiliiliiiii nml A'n'i «, in /'. S. Umi. Sun-., Wlm fii\ vii. arili., 1>I>, ■.!!».! ;n I. TIkio luv pli'iity uf lurtiu-r iTfiicnw!), Init tluy Iwul to nt) inlili- tiuual intorniatiou. I « . 1 i 1 i iii PHAKK.^ VOYAriR. 130 ■^ jis 1il CO nsid<-i'e(l the dis- coverer of ( )re!4'on ar<' in some i'(-vs;)ects hi-ttei" 'han those of the Le\antine pilot, though not heyoiid the ri'uch of douht. 'J'he IjiLili^h coi-sair, having;' enteied tlie Pacific Ity way of Mai;* 11a n Strait, and ha\in;4" Well lii'^ll loaded his vessel, the (inldri, Uni'l, \\'\\\\ Spanish plimder on the coasts of South and ('ential America, set sail fiom ( Juatuico, on the coa>t <»f Oajaca, in I.') lo', ou Aj>ril K!, Ia7'.). Jlis pui'|iose was to iind if |»ossiltK' a northern passao'e hy which he mi'fht return to I'Ji^iand, thus avoiding- not only the joiin' a.al st(.rniy south«.'ru route, hut aKo possihle risky eiicountt'rs with the Spaniards he ha la. thi« (tcrica, whiru ubu a V>i\a lint of ixfcr- 140 DTSfOVnRY OF THE XORTITWKST COAST. m port rcspuctiiii,' tliu identity of wliich I liavo Imrl miicli to say elsewliuru. In tlu! first jniiited iU'count, t]>at jmldislicd hy llak- luvt ill laHI), it was stati'd that tlu! northcni limit of Or iki's voya;jie \v as latitude 4'J , reached on June jth; and thei'e was an iiiseription to tliu same eilect on Jlondius' nia|), made hefoj-e the end of the century, which I Ikino already reproduced.* As (>arly as I.V.IJ the I-jiuflish annalist Stow, as <|uoted hy Twiss, wrote: "lie j)asse]itentrional latitU(K; of i'orty-eio-ht deiL^rees, heim;- on the hack side of Xewfoundland. L (iw m I ;V.).S Li'ave the limit as ti*', ))rol)al)ly followinuf 1 takhiyt, as did (v'anulen in Mil.")." In an anonymous discourse of the century, written ))erhaj)s hy one of Drake's asso- ciates, wi! lead: "IK'ic! Drake watert'd his shi|> and «leparti'd, sayliuLf northwards till he came to IS. i^r. of the septeiitrioiiall latitud, still lindiiiiif a very lardy'e sea treiidiniLf toward tlu' north, luit heiiiiif afraid to spend loiin" tinu! in seekint^ lor tlu! straite, hee turned haelie au^aiiu', still kepiiiy; aloiin" the cost as nere land as hee minht, vntill hee came to 44. j^r.," that is, Drake ^ lliilhiiif\ I'"//., Ticmdon. l.")S!). T liavc? not si\'ii tliiM edition, Imt take tlu! Htatriiuiit. of Tw j.s.s, ll'i-i. Or., •_'(! .">7. 'Sec tn:i|) iHlun" ;4ivcii, Tlif ilotti'il liiii- shows |)rak('"s route, iiml tin' iiisc'i'i|itioii, not fopinl, is opposite llic iioitlni'ii tiriiiiiiiition ot that line. I take the iiiali from tiie Makluyt StK'iet_, reprint of hniLi's W'mlil /■^mdiii/i'i^-i '', tiie editor ol uiiieli uoik states tiiat ii was originally iittiielieil to a l>ntili narrative of tin' voyai;e, Curlf liisr/iri/riiiii/ic. ete., apparently u eomleliseil translation of a doeiinient similar to tlu" li'url'l Kucoiii/itii.-i il. •'/ttiriK' \\'iirli/'s lljiilroij. /Ji-iror.. as eiteil hy (Jreenhow ami Twiss. '^ l.iiii\ Miir mil r Suhuiiin IJiu/i, 4M; Cuimkii, Aiiitulc.'< iivrviu Amj^i- currm, eiteil liy Twiss. PRAKirS I.YIXO PREACIIKR. Itl much Hak- ■ nit of H .' ath;' H H't Oil H nturv. H ^ \:)\yi H wrote: H ic lati- H it way H w'ukU H le line H 10 lati- H ), until H' f) .lolui H Drake H all the H »to the H 1-111-4 on H )S |j,ave p| as did :1 of the ■i asso- ii i)|) and ^1 1. v;!"- of lardiA'i' ii raid to 1 1 turned ■ '^ IT land Drake ii take tilt! . iiii.l til-' It liiu'. I 1, Duttli lollllftlMlll ill . I /(.'/''• Vuiv, oil tlie C;dIfornia eonst.'^ In liis edition of \i\{){) ll.ikluvt made a eliaii'^r in tiie latitutK' and wj'ote: "HfO he^annc to thinke of his lu'st way to the Mahicos, jiiid lindiiiL;; hiuisflle where hee now was he( ;dim'd, h I'C aw that of neeessitic hee must I »ce eiiforet'd to take a Sjianish course, naiiirly to sjiile sdiiifwliat Xoi'therly to oct a winde," Woe theri'foi-e set sailc, and sayled (JOO. leai^ut's iit tlio least for n <;(»o(l windc, and thus much we sailed tVom tlu; 1(5. <>\' A])ril, till tlie ."!. of .lunc. The 5. d;iy of ,! iinc, hcin^j in i;!. dei^ives towards tin' |)oi(' Ai'ctickc. wee found the ayre so coldi-, that our mdi hein^- ^rii^uously |>inched with the same, complained of the extreniitie thereof, and the fuither we Went, the more the colde increased u|ion us. Win riU])on we thoui^'ht it hest tor that tmie to seejw pkiine land, till wi-e came w 1 1 1 u n ;{s i\vj^ rees towards tlie l:ne llakluyt's account was folloN.'ed l»y l^invhas and hy most other early writers, except De Laet, who made latitude to the northern limit.'" The author of tlu! l)i,ii(iiis \'(>i/iiijr \^ not known; hut it is not imlikely that llakluyt himself compileil it from papers and Ncihal statements of Dral ie s cojiipaniol'.s. new ac \e s count was compiled and puhlished in K'.Ll.S h\ Dral nephew from thn(^r, Thr Wi'i'il A.'/i'V. »(/,(/«.■« ./ hif Sir /'innri^ l>rilki\ lliiii'l hi< III 1 1 r())/((;/(' /() I hill hi Xniiihri ill l)hii I'linm rli/ im/iriii/i il : I 'nn I'll 1 1 II inlln ful uiii uj' llir XiiliH III' Mil itl r l'\-iiiirii t'lihlti r, I'rmihir in /hit iiiijiliii/iii' nl, nml ilinir* ii'hi ri III ^ lull (lilt rs ill III! siiiiii. I'to. I.iiiiilon, Hi"_'H; hIniii'iIs. (i| Mi^i'Jiiinl l(i.'t">. Tlu' kiti'Nt mill Ik'nI iM tliat of the llakluyt Sncicty <<( iH."iJ, witii ii|i|"ii.li. im mill iiitiiii|iiftii)ii liy W. S. N\'. \'."ii\. 'I'lic ii|t|MniliriM iiuiiiJ"' tlu' /■'uiiiiim Viiilii'i'. li'Miii lliikliiyt. mill uKk ki'M'iiiI MS. naiiiitiv'' ; or liUfiiiaiila ou tiio (•ulijcut— ill filit 111! llic rviikiiii: (.M.^liii^ uli tlu: vu^.i,,'!,'. 112 DISCOVEIIY OK THE NORTIIWr.ST COAST. , i f I ' f ! the noi'tlicni ]);irf, (>xcc'pt a portion of the lonir dis- (jui. itioM on the chniati!: " l''roi!i (r'liituhi) wco ilopartcvl tlic div iollowiuLT, viz., Ajii'ill l(), scitinn' our coursr dircotly into the sea, whci'c'on woo saylud fiOO Iom'^-uos in lon^iludo, t(» u't't a ^vlnll^ ant 1 hot WOOllC that aiK I Jitiir .•;. I 100 Icauut-'S Ml a Ih till \\( cunK' into 42 of Xoi'tli latitude, whoro ill the ui_nht toll )\vinn' wo I'ound such ahei-ation of hoatt', into oxtroanio and ni|)pin;4' oold, that our men i;i jL^onorall (hd <;'ri(.'Uously coinjjlaint! thcr<';)l'. . .t hi- M'ly roapcs ot" our shi|> wort; stille, and tho raino whicli IMI wa-^ an vnnatui'.d coM'^tjali-d ;utd tVoj^i n sult- s!ans, oi- rather keep thenisehu's v.iihin their eoueits. . .()ur nieate. as soono as it wa-; I'oinoouod I'roni the 1iri\ would presently in a manner he iVozen \p. . .Tilt' land in that |)art of Anuii( a, hoai-iir^' 1';irthei' out into the West then Wl'O hel ore nna'jnied wo wore neeiei- (Mi it then woe werci aware; and y( t tho neorer sliil woo e.iino \ nto it, the more extnniilii' ol' e<»ld did seaso V|>on vs. The .") day of Inni', wc were foreitl hy contrary wI'kK's to runut' in with the shoare, which wee then tir:^l descrie.l, and to castaiichoi' in a had hay, the host roadii wee oouM for the pii^rut mooto with, wher.' wee were not, w iiht)ut s(»ni' dan^'ci' l»y reason of thi' niaii\ extreino i^iists and llawcs that l)eato vpon \'s, which if ihoy ooasod and were r^iill at any time, immediately upon their intermission there lojiowt'd most nil', thicke, and ^:tinki•.'4■ lo<_;'!j>-(«s, aii^^-iinst whii'h the si'a prcuailcd nothin'^', till i le ^vistsof winde a^aino i-emoucd them, which hrounht with thi ni such extron'.io and violence wIk'U tliey came, that there was no doalin.;' or ri'sistiuv;' aLfiiinst th« a. In this place was no aitidiui;" forvs; and to j^'o furl In i' Xorth, tilt? I'xtremitv of the coald, woiild not jiermit vs: an( I tho window dirootU' bout against v ■5, liauiiiy imi'-j grtHn.' 11 YR FALSEST KNAVK TITAT LIVKTIT. 148 ijX tils- .ic sen. ) O'i't it ioii ,! raiuc en sii!)- ll'JJ l>ut s(j, that msrliU's s it W!»- \iuu V l>»' lH'arin'4' laj^iiunl, and yit Irciiiili'' ith till' .•iiichi»r pri'^nit «laii'j;rr » s that :>lill at thiMi' |aLi:ih\4 wiiuK' ini such thcri' 11 thi- IXorth, .; ami I.xMIaU iU vs viuler sayu; an'am(\ <■<) )iMiiiaii(l»il vs to the Sonth- \varil whrthiT wcc wmild oi- no. r'-roni the lieiLiht of IS dci., in which now wcc wci;'. to .".s , wc Connd tho I iiid, l>y <*'>iistinL,^ aloni^st if, to hcc hut low and iva- sonal)l(! j)lainc; cuitv hill (whci'cof \\\' saw many, d th iiut nono vcric hij'li), tnouuli it wi-rc in Jmic, and iiit! .-^ninc in his nccivst appioch vnio thciii, l)ciii!jc ''oiicrcd Vvith snow. . . Wco coniccture, that cither there is no |)assa!jfe at all throU!.;'h these Northcrnc coasts (which is most likely) or it'th<'re he, that yet it is vnnaiii;4ahlc. Aflde hdvunto, that thon^di wee searched the coast (lili^'ntly, (Mien vnto the 48 den"., vet found wee not , and to conceal and ex- I'liiin siniihp" defi>cts in tin ollur, naming" also the c.niiient writei"s who h.i\e adoj>t*(l its statements. A^. in m(»>t discussions, a larij;e s[>a( e is al-o devoted '-'Sco //(.. iii., lliis 8. ics, for n full lii* nf iiiitliorition, "dr'Cii/f.ir'.^Dr.n,! I ' ,tl.^-\ :,; /./., .1/. hi../'/-, •.Ml 4: '//rwv 0,7 .;.,, m,<, ./;,)», -'!-"'7; //.. h'U. Or.. 'Jd !'>. Tuiss in soiiii- ri-s]MTt.< li;i.-< (Iniilcilly tip' lii'st • ■f tlic ar;;unui>t, fliiclly lK>i-a.tisi' of his iii!vanta;,'is in tlu' iiuuti'i- of liililio;^- iii;i|iv, iiihI i()iisr(|m 111 ,iliilit\ to ia|him- Ins ()|>i«inii tlu; aocuruoy ol' tlio (lis])utant's jiositioii on invlcvaut or uniinpor- t.int, (|U('stions. I liavu no :-!])at'e i'oi" the cxiuninatittn of each l>ctty })oint; but neither of the I'ival i;:nra- tives lias been [)rovecl s[>urioiis or wholly unrehable, or indeed free from serious delects. From the marked dill'erences in statements of writers V. ho wei'e contemporary with .Drake, an;l whose i^ood I'.iith ill this matter is not (juestioned, tlu! reader will ]Hiha]»s conclude with nu; that J)rake's eom[ianionsia theii" notes and verbal statements did not ajji'iee i'esj)eet- iiiU' the northern limit of the vova-^e; that observations in the north had been few and conti-adictorv; that ossibly tlie i-en'ular diai'V, if any had Irtii ke])t, was )st, and memory alone de[)ended on; and at ;iiiy rate that the truth cannot be known respectiii'^' the latitude ol" the iVeebootei's' landrail. l>ut when it comes to a 1 weiLi'hinj;' of the pi-obabililies between the J''((iii<>iis }'(>i/(((j'' and the War/d ./•utcnm/Kisscd, that is between latit udes 4. J aiK 1 -ia . ih ill le reader Mill note severa AveiL,Hity considerations in favor of the Ibrniei-. 1'lie lowest latitude was that iirst aiiiiouiici'd. Iiidiaid llakluyt was a compiler of threat re|>utalion; his Rt.atcniciit of M?- Vmiix, llu' clitor of tho IT.ikhiyt Sdp. ••ililioii, rj, a jiortiuu ui I- lutclitTH MS, va uii caiin'r ^nn a Jul III' HIS bctwcfU H'Vrial V. Tlx' Wlcliaf.l on; lii-^ )vr than latltnd.' (^ called of tin- nowii as llihclt'us to the lalitUiK' the ini- i'oi- tho I'Xpcvi- c'Uiai'.v. |,!duyt So<-. \ II'.'O llt'lU-i ahsiirdities of tlic iiari'ativc, l>y Ids (ik no ste[)s to profit hy I )rakc's disco\ ci\'. The lii'st is. what territtirial i-i^hts, if any, (h» tlie dis- i()\Hries of a jaivatc-er or outlaw conft;r U|)on his nation^ And tin- sei-ond, did not (*ahrill s VoVa"'"e, cxteiidinn to latitude 4:5 or \\ , according' to an olli- cial diary written in i;-ood laith, ,nive to S[)ain foi- the next two centuries and more the same territoi-ial rights a> if he had really ri-ached the latitude named, even thniiMJi we may now he certain that he ■(» so larf The third voyai^'e of the pei'iod, that of I'ranci^co de (Jali. rtMjuires hut u brief notici' here, sinci' the claim that it extended to tlu' Xoi-thwest Coa t and to latitude a? -lO' appears to have no othui' foinalation than the misrepresentation oi- hhmdei' of a i"an>lator. (iali came across from Asia in last and sighted tla <'oast in latitude .*]7' '50'. His narrative exists only in a Dutch translation hy Linschoten of I .V.KI, ofti'ii re- printed and reti'anslated. A French translator changed till' locality to latitude ."'7 30', and the coui'se of stiil- Uwi. N. W. CoAKi, Vol. I. 10 nc PIsroVHRY OF THE N'ORTITWEST COAST. iiicf to rorrosjiond. Xavarretc rcjx.'ated tlu' error, as (li(( otliers nlyliiL,^ on Ijis aiithoiity." ( )n .laiiiun V •», I ^>0;^, Schastian A'^izraiiio, in cnininaud of t\\i> S|)niii:;li cxiiloiiii^^' vessels, the Scit Dir^jn aiul yVr.s- liC'/rs, Iho latter l)ein«jf eoinmaiuled l>y Martin A;;'nilar, sniled from Monterey to the nortli.'" Jiist altove i*oint Keyes, on the 7th, the vesul; }i;ntrast, threatriiin^ d(>struetion. All hut six men v.'ere down with theseurxy; they dared not u'o I'artlier; an'e of the v/ind to the nortli-west, slu; was found tt> he in latitude I'J , at a white caj)i' near hii^h snowy mountains, v/hicli IVom the color of the earth and iVom the day was named ('al)o IManco de San Sehastian. Tluncc^ Vizcaino with a favorahle wind followed the coast si)uthward in search <*1" the consert. Meanv.hile Aj^'uilai", jmrtin;.'' from his commandei- on .lamiaiy 7th, was in latitudi' 41" when struck hy the sou(h-ia; t ji;ale. The Ti'cs J*(i/cs ran helbre the wind to a slultei- l)ehino Ulanco, from which tlu; coast heeins to run to tlie noi'th-west"' — or, as ]*adr(! Ascension savs, north- oast- an( I near it was found a very copi ous am '■^ For il''t.'ii!^< of (l:ili'H voynfjo «pc ll'int. Crd, i. chnyi. iii., this series. 'Tor N'izcaino's voyayu on the lower couuts ace JJiM. CuL, i. clmp. iii. TIIK COMIXC INTr.HVAL. 147 s(»un(lal)li' I'ivci', <>ii the l>;iiiks of wliidi Wci'c vciy lari^c aslics, willows, hrauiMi's, and other tvcvs of Castile; and wisliln;:,' to enter it the eiirn-nt w<»uld nn( permit it." Then AiLijiiihir and I'Moi-i-s agned, jis tin V iiad many sick, and liad ah'eudy gone fail her than the viceroy's instructions recjuiin-d, to turn Itack 1m Acapulco. ]>oth died on th«; way, oidy I*]ste\an !,(]»(■>'. and lour men surviving to relate their noitheru di. -cowries.''' Thus is given in text and noti' all that is known of this V(yage noi'th of San Francisco, from all oj" which it a:)])ears that, as in the earlier vova''es, there iire lanco of modern maj)s just l)rl(»w l;ill;udes 4- and 4:) respect ixcly. In the nan-alive no ( 'alirornian latituiles south of ^leudocino are "ilveu ' Ti>n/iii'iiiii'l(i, Moiirini. lull., i. 71'' -."). P.-xlro A'^i'dision, viiu was on ^'i,■c•;l•lll>^^ sliij), lurrivid fnnii Ldjif/ iiit nccmiiit of wluit liii|i|i<'iK d l.> Uio (it!ii r \t sil, iiiiil v.a.s 'I'diviuciiiacla't iiiitliDiitv, in lii< AV 'ncli'ii, .'i .S, hcciiis to I' iili'iiii'l the liiovciiicnt.s (if tlii> twii vi'.ssi'I.s. 1!(^ Fay.": 'On tlio coast wo saw the port \ liovo to, and, as hlic could not .steer, tlio cuneiit f carried licr slowly toward the land, runnin;; to tlio strait of Aiiiaii, uliii !i here liai it.s enlraliee; ;ind in ( i;;ht dayt ue had advain-ed more than on.' lie , lee ot lalitnde to AW , ill ^■iL;ht of ii point named .^an Sehastian, near w !iii!i ( I'.iMtiei ;i 1 i\\ r named S.in(;i Ims. Hire no one lamled, Ikc.mi. c all l>oor health, only fix jiersons lieim^ alile to Kt.'ind. 'I'he coast . anil laud turn i to the N. i:, d tiii:-! i-i the he. id and end of the mainland of Cali fiini.l.' Tlu n tliev tlinieil ahoiitaiid eNalliiiacl the coast tot! itliuard. Ill 11 oi'di'.lai f Aic'iist 1!», l(i(l(i, the k n alliiilin'' to V izcaiiio .s voyage, Kay:i: '.\!l that coa.st iiji to A() nin.i one jiint wi'.h another from .s. i:. lo N. v>., ••ml for the other two dc'/rees i!i> to IJ ic ruin almost due s. and s.' \'iiiiiiii.<, .\'rcr;i i.iieiio, in i::u, eriveil hi.-t iiiloi-ination manih tiom c::iiio's (Aploration, lint .I'so to sonu^ extent, pirliaps, from the oliseivalioiis of till' Manila shijis, lie;.'ins lii.s sailing directions with a e;ipe in 4'-''. iilioiit ei; ht I a e;ipe onth of vhich wa.s another point with .some white elitls, in 41 ',>\t', lied ("api! Ml udoeino, whence the coast runs s. I'., to ji jioint in ."!•' '.MY, ainl thence s. i;. .| s. to I'oint Jieyes, in .'IS .'{t)'. l!oth latitudes and coast til lid are very faulty, liut the central ])oint must lie I'oint Arena, .'!(>' too liij.di, lilic Point lieye.s; and the northern points, ei^;ht leajjues apart, must ap- jMiiiitly he ideiitiiicd, if at all, with the false ^Iendocino eight miles ulwjve aU'l the I'oint Gordu fourtoen miles below, thu rcul Mtndociuo. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 f, ^ m i'f IIIIM 2.2 " IIIIM — ..:. iiiis 2.0 mil 1 ft I.I 1.25 1.4 11111=^ 1.6 V] s^ //, '^A •c*i 'm a /a y /A Photographic Sciences Corporation \ 4^ LV ^ :\ \ #> Ci^ W^ ^v- 23 WEST MAIN STRIET WEBSTER, N.y. 14580 l7U" 872-4503 I * &p M 148 DISCOVEP.Y OF THE NORTHWEST COAST. to serve as a test; but Cabrera Bueno's latitudes, doubtless obtained from Vizcaino's log, show an excess of 00' at Point Reyes and Monterey, increasing both north and south to a full degree or more. This test would bring Aguilar back to Point St George and Viz- caino to Trinidad. Again, there can be little doubt respecting the identity of Cape Mendocino, which was put in latitude 41° 30', so that if we place capes Saii Sebastian and Blanco respectively half a degree and a degree and a half beyond ^lendocino we still ha\e Trinidad and St George as the points reached. If we turn to the description of landmai'ks we find plenty of difficulties, but very little to support either tlieory. Thei*e is nowhere in the region visited a larije river just beyond a cape.^^ Ascension's statement that tlie urposes an undiscovered ci^mtry. There is a strong ])robability that the Spaniards undt.r Ferrelo and Aguilar had not ])assed the line of lati- tude^ 42°; and the probability that Drake had done so is not a very convincing one— that is, it rests mainly on the lack of evidence to the contrary. There is much reason to sus})ect that if Drake'u observations of latitude had been more frequent, or if Fletcher '" Unless it bo the Uiii|v|ua, where the trees nre said to agree soincwhiit better with Aguilar's descnirtion tliaii jit other jioints; l>ut the river is in 4U" 4o', and thuiiu vuyugera uiiilunuly iiiudu tlieii' latitude tuu high. REVIVAL OF SPANISH ENTERPRISE. 140 had diverted a portion of liis zeal from the climate to the do.scrij)tioii of landmarks, evidence might not be wanting that the Englishmen did not reach 43°; while il' the Spaniards had abstained somewhat from sucli dcscri[)tions and observations it is very certain that their claim to have reached the same or a hi<>:hcr latitude could not be successfully disputed. Xothing was acconij^lished by Spain on the western coast beyond the gulf of California for one hundred and sixty-six years after Vizcainos return. During this period there was no lack of exploring projects urged upon the attention of the king, as we have seen in presenting another phase of this topic; but tile government could not be roused to action. There Mas no longer a hope, save on tlie })art of certain entliusiasts, of lindinu' m'viit and rich kini>'doms in the north; the finding of a strait was no longer de- siral)le to Spain. As before observed, the fear tliat it Avould be found and held bv foreiiJ'ners had 1)een somewhat allaved in official circles: tliere was in many respects a decline of Spanish power and energy, hrsidcs a multiplicity of more urgent matters tlian llic exploration of unknown coasts. But during the reign of Ciirlos III., wliich began in 1759, there was a marked revival of enterprise in all directions; and tliat monarch was not more fortunate in his choice of ministers at home than in that of a representative in the New Woi-ld, for which position lie cliose Jose' do (ialvez as visitador general. All the old motives t"i>r northern exploration remained in full force, the extension of territory, the conversion of souls, the ot( up.ation of ports for the Manila ships, the taking possession of a possible interoceanic sti-ait, and the pivveiition of foreign encroachments; and there was an additional motive in the repoi'ts of recent Jvussian (liseoveries in the far north. Pntler the intelligent and energetic su]x;rvision of Galvez, who later became iJiinister of the Indies, the Calilorniaii coast from San ISO DISCOVERY OF THE NORTHWEST COAST. I I Diego to San Francisco was promptly occupied in 17G9 and the following years, as fully recorded else- where in this history.^" It had been intended to include in the general movement an examination of the coast far above San Francisco; and that examination was hastened by new reports of Russian expeditions, which came by way of ]\Iadi'id from the Spanish minister in St Peters- burg.^" In 1773 an expedition was planned f )r the next year. The new transport Sant'uKjo, built ex- pressly for the Californian service, was deemed the liest vessel for the purpose ; and to Juan Perez, the officer who in the late expeditions had been the first to reacli San Diego and INIonterey, was given the command. Laden with a year's supplies for the northern mis- sions, and having on board also the returning presi- "Sco Hid. Cal., i. chap. iv. ct scq. ^".)f(iiirrne, Compendio de Xotickn adquirhlas en Ion defcuhrimienfon dc fa co-'ta septentrional de (a N. California, heeho por 6rden del £>:»'" Sr. I'irei/ Coiide. de /I'eril/a-d'iijedo con la prolixidad pot(indcncu en rc,iiiine is as follows; Feht-uuiy 7, IT?.*?, Coiido do La;ri, Spanish minister in Russia, to Manpii'^s dc Orimaldi: Has heard that tliu Russian Tschericow in 1 70'J-7 1 made u voyage to America ; the result tlioii!;ht to lio important, but kept a profound secret; will ti-y to unravel it. April 11th, Arriaga, minister of navy, sends the preceding to viceroy, with ordci.s to investigate. July "27th, viceroy's reply: Js'o foreign establishments Ijcluw ^lontcroy; aid needed to explore beyond; has ordereil Juan Perez to forai a plan. September 2.")th, Arriaga to viceroy: Sends by king's order three letters of Lasci: lirst, of March lOth, has succeeded in getting from a man who liiis read the secret archives an account of the voyage of Cwcliacow an. I Ranowbafcw in 1704; the new regions doubtless in California, and steps should b(! taken; second, of ^lay 7th, Russian ambition is so vast that it in- tends not only to invade China but to send an expedition against .Tapnn under an Knglishnian; third, of May 11th, the famous Haller has pro- piwcd to send a Russian si|uadron to the American an^hipelago. Dc;;c iilur 'J.'Jd, Arria;'a to viceroy: The king will send olliccrs, etc. .Tunc 1,"), 1771, /A ♦() /(/., with another letter from Lasci eonlirming the others, and includiii;,' a (\demhrio Ihtm) de Ji7.'/, which contains a muss of descriptive matter < u northern jjeography, mostly (pioted from ]Mullcr and Stiiehlin. August _'•">, 17711, viceroy to (A'lrdoba, general of the licet: lias resolved on an cxpcilitiou in 1771. September 1st, Cordoba approves, but is ignorant of nor.'ii'ni waters. .Tuly ISth, viceroy orders Juan Perez to form a plan. Septc aliir li't, Terc/,' plan: Ho proposes to strike the coast in 45' or 55', and tiienc • i .■ ploro down the coast M'ith the wind. The .SVo/Y/a./o is tlie boit vessel ; and V.[c best time from Deeomberto I'Vbruary. A year's supplies need 'd, aad .m order on the presidios for men in ease of siekneiis. September "J^Lli, vi.' "'oy a]i[)r. )ve3 plan, but Perez nmst go its far as (iO". Some other unimpo'tiat correapondenco about outlit, etc.; also two orders from Spain to this viceioy to dislodge the Ruiisiuns if found. THE UnSSIONARY VOYAGE. 151 lied in X clsu- rcno Till ve Sail by new uy way Petors- for tlie Liilt cx- tlic best c officer to read I mmaiul M-n niis- ig presi- lienfos ; nniaipi'i ; it the vic>i"y I (lent, Pacb'o Junipero Serra, with another padre and .sevoi'al oiiicials for CaHfornia, the *S«;(^A/r/o sailed from San Bias January 24tli, and having touched at San Uio^ijo, anived at Monterey on May 9th.^^ The nii;;sionaries Crespi and Peila were appointed by President Serra to act as chaplains and keep tliaries of tlie voyage in place of the chaplain IMugartegui, and surgeon Davila took the pkice of the regular surgeon. Tlierc were eighty -eight persons on board, ofiicers and men. On June 11th, after solemn public prayei's for the success of the expedition, Perez set sail fi'oin jMoiitercy. His instructions were to make the land wherever lie might deem it best, but at least as hiu'h as latitude G0° and thence to follow the coast southward as near as possible without risk. No settle- iiie!its were to be made, but the best places were to be noted; and the commander was to take possession of such ])laces for the king, erecting a cross at eacli and burying a bottle with the proper documents. If any foreign settlement was found, the fornuility of t'lking possession must be commenced above it. All su'jli estaWishments were to be carefully examined, but not interfered with; neither to the inhabitants of such places nor to vessels met on the way was the nature of the mission to be divulged; if met below ^Monterey, Pri'ez was to say his business was to carry su[)plies; il' above, tliat he had been driven out of his course by the wind."^ This voyage was well recorded, there beinn- no less than four distinct diaries extant.^'^ '-'' S;p JIh>. C,'u\i fxtci'diT las e^criijturus tie poscxion en Ion dr-icnhriinieiilus tie que (■■■< iltxriihrimicnto", ilS., in Mniinlli', ('(iiii/irKdio )7II-8."i. Sou iilso hrit^f aecounta of tlii.s voyajjc in N(i>'(rrr(t< , Sidif ;/ .U(.r., Vhi'jr. !)'2-.'?; Ilnm- Iwlilf, J'JmiiI I'oL, XM-'2; Mnfr(C-'<, Exjilnr., i. 107; Nm-drntc, Vkuiis Apdr., 5:5-1; (!,■(( II how' X Mem., G!)"; /(/., r\\, 1.S71, p. -!)!(; Tujilor, in ('(d. Fnrmi'r. August 7, ISfi.'l; Nirolfiii'.s Ori'i/oii Tcr., 'M)-'2; Fiiiil/(ii/'n ll'iri'dorii, i. 34!)-.")0; PoiiH-ih(im'n fJ/ehi Cid., iCi.S -7 ; M(ic(!r(art of the voyage. From Pen-,, Pclndon: 18th, sighted land in o.'C XY; trie\\v or five small rocks causing breakers visible from ufar. There arc also thrco small islands a gunshot from Point Santa Marga- PERlilZ VOYAGE. 153 confusion, but no more probably than mny b;) at- tribute;! to errors of copyists and printei-s. It is clear that tliis navigator struck the coast of Queen Char- lotte Island, and followed it up to its northern poii^t, Cape North, in latitude 54° 15', which he called l*oint rita. The coaat niiis s. from Santa Margarita to a liighsnowj-liill, ami thonce the land t;ills away to a tongue-shaped point, whence it turns s. k. North ot" Santa Margarita the coast runs low anil wooded to tlie east for ten It'agnes witli- out any heacli that can be seen ; and in this space is a k)w point fuiined liy a hill, with two rocks, the point forming apparently a shelterecl hight, hut not iucessilile on account of the strong current, the ships being kept six or seven leagucH oil' the coast. Jaght leagues X. of Santii Margarita they saw a cape called Sa iita Magdalena ; and between the two points is doubtless a largo gulf, judging liy the strong current of six or seven miles. It was also seen that seven leagues west of Cape Santii Magdalena (and not sixteen leagues, as in the Ttilila, perhaps l)y a copyist's error) was an island live or six leagues in circuni- fuivnce. called Santa Cristina, and x. w. from Santa Margarita al)out seven leagues. July "ilst, oliservation ttkken in 5,")^ All this agrees as well with tlio country about Dixon Strait as the best modern maps agree with each other, except that the latitude is too high. From Crcipi, J)'iario, .Inly KSth: Land .seen at a clistancc; no olxservation ; cn r. .\i., being three k:\gues from shore, saw that the coast continues low northward lio- yond the cape; tacked to get farther from shoi'e; "JOth, in morning fog and drizzling rain, with 1;. wind and lieavy sea, course x. ^ n.k. ; at !l a.m. tui-ned N. 1'..: at ID were three leagues from the point, which seemed to lie formed of three islands; at noon no observation; at 3 I'.^r. two leagues from the point, the three islands now appearing as one, and not very far from the c';:>.' t; by the said point was formed a good bight; at 4 i'. >r. tacked away froni slioii'; '21st, fog and drizzle; at 8 a.m. turned toward the point, named Santa Mar- garita, Irom yesterday, the day of its discovery; course 1:. :{ n.; at noon no oljservaiion ; one fourth league from the point which was coasted eastward, witli a view of reaching what seemed to be an anchorage, but they could not (loulile the point, nor find out if it was an island or a point of the main, be- cause the current was so strong; lay becalmed olF the point all the afternoon. 1 he point Santa Margarita is a medium hill (h)ma), lofty, cut ilown to the sea, civered witii liees like cypresses. It is about one league long, making two points, one to s. e. \ s. and the other to the s. K., from whicli begins a great liight (ensenada). From the point the low land stretches eastward ten leagues or more, also wooded. In the x. is seen, sixteen leagues oil' (whicli again shows a transpositiini in the T(Uila), a vei'y high wooded ea|)e, named Santa Maria Magdalena. Fiomthatcape the high wooded coast runs 1;. and W. as far as tan be seen ; and X. w. from that coast was seen a small island, named S.uitft Catarina (not Santa Cristina, as in tlie other accounts), although they were not sure if it was an island or connected with the main. (Jape Sant.i Mag- d:dena is \, (jf Point Santa Margarita, and between them there is something lil:o a large biglit, which could not be explored for the strong current to learn if it wa.s ni^i-iiuila, hol.son, or (Htncho; and if it is only an cnsoialii it may lie that BoMie great river causes the current. Cape Santa Maria MagT 4;i'; on the "jitli, Cr-21'; -jrith. 'hV2\'; on the '20th, .-)•2^■i^'; ^Tth, .VJ'II'; •J.Sdi, .-)J'i;j'; 2!)th, ."d ' 30'; 30th, JV oS'i 31st, 51' 33'; August 1st, 50' 20'; I'd, 40 124'; 3d, 4o' 52'; RETURX OF THE SANllAGO. 185 of* tlio C(iast (If)wii to about latitude 52°, always off QiR'uu Charlotte; Imt tlio fog and wind woulil not ])crnn't tlio oloso examination desired. Then lor five da^'s no land was seen, until on the 5th of Au- gust it reappeared, in 48° 50'; and on the 7th in the al'ternoon, after many efforts and jirayers, they ap- j)i()aehed the eoasf^" and anchored in 49° 30', calling their anehora'jfe San Lorenzo. The anchora'jfe was a *C'-s]ia])ed roadstead, affording but slight protection; the southern rocky point, extending three fourths of a leaLTue north-westward into the sea and causing' bi-eak- crs, was named San Estevan, for the pilots, one of wlioin was Estevan Martinez, while the northern l)oint was called Santa Clara, from the saint whoso novena was being observed.''''' San Lorenzo has been identified by modern writers with Nootka Sound; the latitude is the same; later Si)anish navigators had no doubt of the identity ; and the description agrees a;i well with this as with any other of the numerous iidets on this part of the coast — better, indeed, in respect of tlie distance between the two points than with the northern inlet. It is, ho\\'- e\'er, impossible to speak })ositively about the identity of an inlet on a coast where there are so many, the description being vague, and the latitude somewhat too accurate in comparison with that of other points as given by Perez. San Lorenzo may have been Es- perauza Inlet, north of Nootka Island,"^ or possibly an 4th, 4S' 34'; Tith, 48' .50'. These latitmlos are chiefly from the Tahla, hut til re ;ivo Home sli'.^ht variiitions in the other records, especially iuCrespi.who is Olio (lay lic'iiiul in tlio August liitituiles. -"('rcspi still is one day hchiiid in lii.s dinry. '-' in I'crpx, I'i'lacioii, Point Santa Clara is (leserihed as six leagues from tlio vessel and I'oint San Kstc'van two leagues. Civspi makes the distance Ix^twccu till! ]K)int;i four or five lejvgues. The lowliills near the shore were covered with trees; one loa','uo farther inland was a higher range, also W(M)de.d ; and in tlio iKirtli a still higher range, with snow-covered peaks. The shelter seems only from .'i \. w. wind. I'ena, says the sierra in the N. w. was also called San Loren.'.o; the name Point Estevan is refciined for its southern point. -'' I'jypecially if Point Estevan is the s;iine as Point Breakers, as ( Jreenhow, Findlay, ans to trade. Here, as farther nortli, they were friendly, liaving also some articles of iron and eo])per, A l)oat was lowered on the Stli^" to j^o to the sliore for Avater; but a sti'on_ij^ west wind sprang U}) suddenly, forcing them to cut tlie eal)le and ])ut to sea, dragging the boat and narrowly escaping the rocky point. Ke(>[)ing in sight of the land for seven days, but unal)le to approach it for the wind, fog, and rain, Perez ran down to latitude 44' 33', liaving seen on tlie 10th or llth a lofty mountain covered with snow in latitude 48° 7',^^ called Santa Rosalia, and supposed by later writers to have been the present Mount (,)lyni- ]ius of Wasliington. On tlie latli or IGth, l)elng in latitude 42° 37', they were nuich troubled that the fog jircvented their search for Aguilar's river and Cape Blanco, noting the fact that the latitudes of the earlier navigators W(;re too high. Land again appeared on tlie L*]st or 2'Jd for a short time, wJien what vras re- garded as Capo ^Mendocino, in about latitude 40° 8', was seen in the north; the Farallones were passed on the 2()th; and on the 27th the Sanilarjo anchored at ^lontercy. The voyage to San Bias lasted from Oc- tober Dth to November 3d. In this expedition Juan Perez, though ho had not reached latitude 00°, as instructed, nor discovered any good ports, nor landed anywhere to take possession 'Este parage cs jnstamento la boca do Xnca,' which is evidently Mnurel]e'.s interi"Kiliitiim of Inter date. Tlie Houtheni point at Xootka is still ealled Esti'vau on hitnno maps, I'oint lireakei's on others. Point Santa Clai-a must l>e tlie later I'oint Mucuhia, or at least cannot he Woody I'oint, as Greenhow states. '-'•' 1'he silver spoons found by Cooic five years later came from a place south of Nootka Sound. Cook's I'o//., ii. '2f>'2. '■'^ ( )n the ittli, according to Crespi and Pefia. My fragment of the hitter's diary Ix^gins witii August !)th. '•" Accoriliug to the Tahtu, on the 10th they were in 48" 9', and thought the mountain to be in 48' ">'; the liolarion has it that they saw it on tlie 1 1th, when tlicy were in 47' 47', and thougiit it to be in 48^ 7'. I'ena and Cres])i say they sawit on tile llth,beingin 48 0'. Tlie mountain was in sight both days. J'eua notes that at lirst it seemed a horrunra hlniicn close to the shore, Mitli high broken snowless land above it; but later they saw that it was sotoe distance inland, and that there were other snowy luuuutains. n REMARKS OF PEREZ. m ad not mI any llauroUe'.s In ciilk'il , iimst )'0 ('.•L'lniliow lico south liittor's for SiKiIn, nor found either foreign establishments or jii'oof of tlu'ir non-existenee, luul still gained the honor of having discovered practically the whole Northwest Coast. He had surveyed a large portion of the two great islands that make up the coast of ]]ritish Columbia, giving the first description of the natives; lie had seen and described, though vaguely and from a distance, nearly all of the Was) ingtou coast, and a large part of the Oregon. He had gi\en to his nation whatever of credit and territorial claims may be founded on the mere act of first disco ver3^ To give any degree of precedence in these respects to later navi,s dri\en back by thirst when he might easily have carried water for six months; who complained of the scurvy, when only one man w^as lost; who could find no an- chorage on a coast where many good ports existed; and who with his associates could write so many diaries with so little information.^'" And Mr Greenhow says : ' ' The government of Spain, perhaps, acted wisely in concealing the accounts of the expedition, which rciiected little honor on the courage or the science of its navigators. "^^ It seems to me, however, that the criticisms are severe, since the diaries contain a tolerably good account of all that was le.'irned in the voyage; and Perez, a bold and experienced l)ilot, Avas a better judge than I, possibly better than the writers named, of the difficulties in the way of learning more. It should be added that no account of this voyage was given to the world until the ap- ^- .Vmirelk, Compendio, 17iJ-7. "^ GretiiJiow's Or. and CuL, IIC. ir)8 disco\t:ry of the- northwest coast. pcarauco of Naviirrotu's resume in 1802, which con- tained only a very brief outhne of the fuct«. Tlie second explorini^ expedition of the epoch fol- lowed closely \\\M\\\ the lirst, bein<;' des|ttitched in 1775. Naval oflicers had been sent out from Spain, as prom- ised in correspondence already noted, to take cliargo of the San Bias dei)artment with its Californian and cxplorinLj service. They accordingly took connnand of the four vessels sailing to the north this year, two bound for California with mission and presidio sup[)lies, the others for the coasts furtlier north. Ijvuno I[oc(!ta, lieutenant and acting ca})tain, was commander of the expedition, and the vessel chosen for liis llag-ship was tlie Snntiwjo of the last year's voyage. Juan Perez went on her as p/'loto, or sailing- master, and second in connnand; Cristobal Revilla was his mate; and the chaplains were the Franciscan ])adres Campa arid Sierra, who became missionaries in California. The ship also carried a quantity of snpj)lies for Monterey. The schooner Sonont, alias Fdichlad, was selected as the consort, connnanded by lieutenant Juan Francisco do Bodega y Cuadra,^' with Alierez Antonio ]Maurello as piloto. Supplies for a year's cruise were taken, and Mie force of both vessels numbered one hundred and si., men. Hccota's instruc- tions were the same as had been those of Perez, except that latitude (55° instead of latitude G0° was named as the northern limit. They sailed from San Bias on ]\Iarcli IGtli, the schooner towed by the ship; but the winds were not favorable, and it was not until IMay 2]st that they reached the latitude of Monterey, wliore it was decided in council not to enter. They finally drew near the land in 42° on June 7th, and followed the coast southward until they discovered the port of Trinidad. Heceta's operations on the Californian coast, like those of Ayala and Quiros in ' ' Lieutenant Juan B. Ayala waar at first put in command, with Cuadra as his second; but he had to bo transferred to tlie San Curios. HECCTA AND CUADRA. 150 the other vessels of this year, have been ah'eady ru- oordtxl.'^' The Sanfiar/o and SonorriAci't Trinidad on Jnne 1 Otli for tho north, kc'o[)ingto<^ethor until the end oC July.'"' Littlu i)rogress was made northward in tlu- un- favoruhlo and variable winds; but by the end ol' Juno they were over one hundred leagues away iVoni tlie oast. Cuadra and Maurelle were in I'avor of 'Xoin., ^I'i., in I'/n/ct al S'orfc, No. "J. Tho . cliooncr'.i inovo'.ncnl. I r.ru of courso included down to tlio Huparuiiuii. Ilctiti, Dinrh, Vi Ilia c'jr.r.naudcr'.i narrative, .s\il)Mt.intially l)ut not literally thr :i nno i^s the p'.'cecding, of wliieli I have only an extract relaiing to the Coltriihia liivei" legijn, [;iven liy (rrcenhow. Jio(lc;i(i ij Cudilca, I'/n;/" dc /77 7, M.>., ill \'i :;j' :i cil A\>i'i', No. 2j, i.-i a narrative by ( 'uadta hiinseU of liie Soiimi's MdnrcUi', (d A'or.'c, No. 3, voya;;o from Atrjust 4l:h to November 20th. after tho scp:ir:ition. of the iJclioouer JJiiiflo (Id VtKji', (le li Sonord, 1775, M.S., in VkfjcM ia tlic second jiHoti'-t narrative of the vrliole voyM,"u and of tho nliip bo long ns they were together, with n^Ileelion-^, tables, etc., at t!io e.ul. MniinU 'n Journal of a Vui/iijc in //'7J, London, I7.>l,pub» li.i:-d lli!rr!ii;ilnii'.f j)l/.-irtl/,tiii's, is an English tniii;; )f a r.ilivo Kiniilar to but not identical with that last named. It contain.) a map, iut'.'oducod by tlio publisher to illustrate tho voyage. Hodi-ji // Caalra, ( '(j.:ir .t J d ■ hi '\ar:"fS, '2.")IV 7, is a narrative of tho voyage of l)jl.!i veriacb, probably founded on the ch;ip!ains' diaries, but inaeli con- fused in tlio printing. Tho original charts of this voyage, as of the preceding, if a:'.y v,t;'o ina.lc, have never been publitjlied and arc not kn:)\vn to be c>:tant. Such arc tho original authoritie? on llcceta's c^:podition. For minor rcfcvcnce.T to works tliat mention the voyage, but eontiiiu no additional i:if>)r:iK'.Lio:i, aoc tho references for I'oi-cz' voyage, note 'Ly of lliis c!ia;itcr, auil latir pages in oacli reference; also Flcnricii, in Jfirchand, I'ov., i. l::vii.- Ixx.;.; 2Ir.rr, Nachrichten, 401; Fariihuiii'n Hint. OrrL Xo. 101, pp. 42-7. 160 DISCOVERY OF THE NORTHWEST COAST. I ■' ■ '11 rccoo'iiizcd tlici:- proxiinity to tlio coast, sii])])osing tlieiuselvcs to be near tlie iiortlieni j)oiiit of Fuca Stmit, according to tlie Frencli niaj) of M. Bellin, and on tlic I I til sio'lited land in latitude 48 20'. Search- ing soutlnvard in vain for an inlet or ])ort, the vessels ancjiored on the KUh in latitude 47" 23',"^ tlie schooner behind a point and a line of shoals, M'hich proved a very diingcrous anchorage, and the ship outside some miles fai'ther south. The i)lace whero tlie Spaniards were now ancliorcd was the Point Grenville of modern ma{)s, in latitude 47" 20'. A barren island fai'ther north, which they discovered and named Isla de Doloivs, was Destruc- tion Island. They had })roved that Fuca's imaginary strait diil not exist between latitudes 47" and 48 ; and theii- landfall had been a few miles too far south to reveal the strait that now bears Fuca's name. To the anchoi'agc, which one diary at least calls Ilada de liucareli,'" accoi'ding to Navarrete, or to the point, as (jii'ceiihow says, the name of Martires was ap- plied, in consequence of the disaster to be mentioned })i'esently. I do not ihid any I'ecord of the name, howcM'r, in the original narratives. On July 14th Europeans set foot for the lirst time on the soil of the Northwest Coast. Captain Heceta, witli Padre Sierra, Surgeon Ddvalos, the second piloto, Cristobal Ilevilla, and a few sailors, landed in the morninu' to erect a cross and take formal possession, though the time did not permit the celebi'ation of mass. But few Indians were present at the ceremony, and they were altogether friendly; indeed they had bef(»re visited the shi[) in a canoe, carrying skins to barter and inviting the Spaniards to land. '" Tlii.s is tlio liititiidc given in Ifccrta, Expcillcion, and ^faiiri'f/r, Dhirio. In //i (■< f((. .s'l iiiiiidii L'.r/i/oi:, it in 4" ' -4', and in MdiirdU '.-i Jtiunial 47 ' -W In the talilf at tlic end iif /(/. tlio latitudes hy uhscrvation niA ivi'koninj,' rcsivct- ively art! ^iven as follows; .Inly )(th, 47 37' and 47 44'; lOtli, 47^ .'!'> and 47 '4.V; litli, 4.S '•_'(;' and 48' H'J'"; ll'tli, 47' :«>' and 48' T; Kith, 47' 28' and 47 ' 41': I4tli, 47' -0' and 47' -4'. Tlio variations arc no greater than would naturally result from the ohservation.s on two vessels. "** So Oiilluil ulso ill licvillu-'Gijedo, ln/ormc, I.' Abfil, 1700. ATTACKED BY THE NATIVES. ICl Tlio schooner, nncliored a few miles farther north, Avas also visited this day and the preceding' by large iiunibei's of Indians, vho were eager to trade, especially I'or articles of iron, and who were very demonstra- tive in their assurances of friendship, urging the strangers to visit their ranrhcria. After he succeeded in removing the Sononi from her dangerous position nniong tlie shoals, Cuadra resolved to send a ])nrtv iishore to obtain wood and water, lie trusted to the iViendly disposition of the natives and to past experience at Trinidad. Six men, under connuand ol' the boatswain Pedro Santa Ana, were accordingly sent to land in the boat. Tlie Indians, some three ]iun(h-ed in nund)er, were hidden in the vroixls near the landing, and no sooner had the Spaniards left the boat than they rushed to attack then). Two sjjrang into the sea and were drowned; tlie rest were immediatt'ly killed and torn in })ieci'S, the boat r.lso being broken up for the nails. CUiadra could all'oi'd no succor, iiaving no boat, e\'en if he had been al)le to man one. The savages even came otf in their caiioi's and surrounded the scliooner, as if to prevent her di'})arture; but one of the canoes venturing too near liad six of its men killed by the guns of the S])aniards. On rejoining tlie ship, Cuadra and some others desired to march with thirty men against the Indians to avenge the massacre, but a council decided that such an act would be unwise. Tlie council also discussi'd the e\])ediency of send- ing the Soiwi'a back to ^Monterey, on account of her small size — thirty-six feet long, twelve feet wide, and tight feet deep — the i-ough weather, and the dilHculty «it' kct'ping the vessels together. But Cuadra and ^lau- I'cUe insisted on bi ing allowed to procetul, urging that they were not likeiy to experience worse weather than ihat which they had survived; and lleceta, with the assent of most of the olKcers, decided in their favor. Six men were furnished to rejilace the seven lost; and nil the evening of the 14th the two vessels set .sail. Uiai. M. \V. CoAur, Vol. I. 11 ! 162 DISCOVERY OF THE NORTHWEST COAST. The course was westward, and losing slightly In lati- tude, by the end of the month they were over one hundred leagues fi-oni the coast. Meanwhile, on the 19t]i, Perez and the surn-eon in writin'j;' advised a re- turn soutlnvard, on account of sickness, contrary winds, and the lateness of the season; but Cuadra and jMaurelle again opposed such action, and tlie com- mander yielded again to their advice. On the 30th a wind i'rom the north struck the vessels and separated tliem. Let us follow Heceta and the Santkujo: On the morning of July 31st, in latitude 46° 42', tlie schooner being no longer in sight, a council was hehl on the shij), in which tlie officers favored a return to IMonterey, because tlie scurvy liad not left men enoug'i tit for dutv to manajj^o the vessel in case of a storm. Heceta yielded so far as to turn his course toward the coast, but in d(.)ing this he also sailed as far north as jtossible, and on August 10th they sighted land, being in latitude 49' 30', tliat is, in the region of Nootku. In the north-west was seen a mountain resembllnn' the peak oC Teneritl'e, in about latitude 50', and another farther south resembling the cuchillada de Roldan in Valencia. Next day the master, mate, and surgeon renewed their warnincjs, Perez claiminwerL(b or with safety t> man the launch. Xext day, in latitude 45' 4-')', a ])oinu ■"'The cliarts hIiow uinny riHiJill mclcs iiloii;;' tlio roast hetwccii I )i'stnicti()!i I ;liiiul ;ni(l (Japo t'lattciy. 'i'hosc islofi s may have Ik'cu Flattery linek.H or iiny el' tiie (ithcr.i. It is clour enoiiu'h that Jlt'ocla did not I'Xiiiiiiuo this part ni thu idd'.t fo closely as Wiis ))reteiideil. " AccordiiiL; to lleccla, A'sj.al. Mnrif., it was in 40' 11'. In //<''■< '(t, l>i((rif the entrance at its inidiUe is alioul l(i I.")'. '-l[eceta"s statement tJiat the points ran in the an^le of 10 nf tiie third iiuadcaat-ihat is, lU westof south —is uiiintcKiijdde, the true diri'ction heiu'^ aliiiut 40" of the second quadrant, or nearly s. i;. In Ilk h'--/,' 'JO'), hn- iin reason that 1 knovi-oi'. The bearings jriven aliive do not a;riee witli either jxiint. '■ Only nieiitioiied in the ,Srijii,i,lii jj.r/ilor. The latitndeniay bo acopyi.si'fi error, as llie di.seovery is mentioned alter lliat of tlie Mesa. '-' Jja Me.sa is on tlie (."oast Survey (."hai't in -1") ,">')'. (Ireenliow identities it witli the Claiko i'oiiit of Mew of l^ewis and ('!avke, in liSlt.'i. •'"Ad these ;,re varitiiisly de.scrihed as i <;o'( .-<, j'ui'dUnin'x, w /'led ran. I'e'-'haps tliose of ■!;{' were just beiow Capo llianco, in -12' oU'. Tiicso rociia are ninncr- ons all aioii'' the cuu.^t. MvOVLMENTS OF THE SOXOEA. IG'. and subsoqnontly iiso liis own judLjnicnt as to the (lircftiou ill wliieli ho should search I'or her.''' The httlc craft kept on to the west until August atli, when tlie navio'ators thou2^ht themselves one hundred a!i■/»'■/. Munt. '"4ii 47', iicuorUiii'' to llio tables in M' in search of Aguilar's river, of whicli no trace could be found.^^ Then they directed their course for San Francisco, but discovered instead the bay to wliicli the commander gave his name of Bodega, reacliing ^Montere}' on October 7th. As soon as the sick hud recovered, both vessels sailed for San Bias, wlicro they arrived November 20th. Juan Perez died two davs out from IMonterev. Thus the whole extent of the Northwest Const from latitude 42° to 55° was explored and formally taken possession of for S})ain by Perez, Heceta, and Cuadra, in 1774-5. The results of these most iui- j>ortaiit expeditions wei'e not published, as they ^;hould have been, by the Spanish go\'ernment, and I'or many years were known only througli the little- circulated EiiiTjlish translation of Maurclles Jonrnai, wdiich was not, however, so faulty a Avoi-k as it ha 4 generally been represented. The charts, which nuist have been tolerably complete, have unfortunately never been published, and are not even known to exist in manuscript. B}^ this mistaken polii-y on the part of their nation the Spanish discoverers lost nuich of the honor due them, but popularly given to later navigators, who in most instances substituted f.)r the (original new geographical names of their ovv'u choice. It does not appear, however, that l)y her error Spain eventually lost anything of territorial lights, or even [)ossessions. ^'■•Tlicre is no agreement l)ct\veen tlio difTcront accounts respecting tho latitudes at which liind -was seen on the sonthei'n tri]i, but nil agree on tlic r.eareh for Aguilar's river. Miiurelle, ./oiinial, notes that ou the 'Idth thoy were at the scene of the massacre of .luly ; on the 24th were close to hind, in 4"' '21', and searched for the river iains Cook, Vlerke, and (lore, in /(/s J/"j. , >.'/// ".v nhijui the liefolii- ti'iii (uid iJiaeovirij, in the Yictrs 1770-80. Lontlon, 1784; 4to, 3 vols., maps, (.hurts, aiul illustrations. Tlic portion of tlio narrative rtlatiiii; to the north- west eoast is found in vol. ii. pj). ■2,"iS-343; also tahlc (^f latituiles, route, vinilti, etc., in vol. iii. pp. 50G-'J. The oetavo edition of the same date, in t'lur vohunes, ia an aln'idgm nt of the original. 'J'herc were otiier editions iiiid translations; and there is hardly a collection of voyai,'e.s tliat has not a loiiixcr or shorter account of this cxjicdition. Ledyard'a A Jonnidl f. I iioL-.t lust voyaije to the Pacific Ocean, etc., Hartford, 17S.'5, is another account hy a man who accompanied Cook. Sjtark^i' Life of John L\ iC.Gref^nry 43 Cook's M.vr, 177S. contrary and variable winds. Tlie coast seen by him was between 44' oo' and 4;!' 10'; and lie nam(>(l capes ]'\)ulwcather, Pcrpetua, and (jlre^orv, which names were permanent, exce[)t tliat the last is also called Ai'a^-o." lie noted the absence of any strait like that whose discovery had been attributed to Aguilar; but '■ III liis pcncrnl chart, showing less (U'tail, wo find C flhtncn just hclow C\ Gi-i-jdrii; '('. Mi'zari seen l)y the Spaiiiardis in 177">," in -4i) ; .lud in ."i.'i 'Ijaiid seen l)y tlic Spaniards in Sep. I77">.' In llii^ map attached to Mi in nil (■'■■< ■lonriKt' wn \uA also ( '. M<:uri and <.'oo/Sh llaihonr, 177S. Tiio name Mczml i.; perhaps a lihinder for the Spani^ih Mdrt'n-cn. "Tile latitmh';* of tiieso capes wen; cnlcuhited l)y bearing's as H'oo, 44' 0', and 4;!' oO'; the true Uititudea are 41' 45', 44 I'J', and 43' '20'. 11 Hii m 11 170 KXPLORATIOX OF THE NORTHWEST COAST. iie did not sco the Unipqua Hivcr, tlio lur<:(Oftt on tho const c'xc('j)t tile Columbia. Ai'ter heing tlriven Jiway iVoni land down to 4iJ' 45', the naviy-ator aj;ain turned north-eastward, and sij^hted tho coast in 47" r>' on ]\rarch '22d, naminjjf and dcscribini^ Capo Flattery, in 48 15', thouoh unable to decide whether or not it wa.s an island. "It is in this very latitude where we now were," writes Cook, "that g'oogra] )hers have pla;'ed tho pretended strait of Juan do Fuca. But wo saw nothing like it; nor is there tlie least probability that over any such tliinuf existed." The Enghsh navi- gator Avas verv lucky in his conclusic^ns; for if when ofi* Ca])e Gregory he had seen tlie Unipqua River, or off Ca[)o FlatteiT lio liad seen the broad entrance just beyond that ])oint, he might have put himself on I'ocord as conlirming the discoveries of both Aguilar and Fuca. Driven away l)y tho winds, Cook sighted land again on ^larch 20th, in 49^ 29', at what ho called Hope Bay, with Point Breakers on the south and Woody Point on tho north, in 50°. Di-awino; nearer the shore, two inlets wore seen, into the lower of M'liich, bel(j\\' Point Breakers, the ships entered and found a tolerably good harbor, anchoring on tho shore of an island, within what was named Friendly Cove anil Shi]) Cove. This southern inlet — tho connection of which with tho northern, forming a largo island, was not discovered at this time — was called at first King George Sound ; but soon Captain Cook doomed it best to retain what ho understood to bo the native name of Nootka. The San Lorenzo of Juan Perez was either this same Nootka Sound or tho inlet immediately above or below it.' The natives came olf in their canoes to meet Cook, as they had met ' See Perez' voj-age, in preceding chapter. Cook has left a degree of con- fusion in h)cal geograplij' which has l)ecn reflected in later maps and writings. Woody I'liint is tho one which still retains the name. Cook's narrative gives the impression that Hope Bay was honnded on the south by Point Bi-eakcrs, ami included both inlets ; ami later writers have followed this in most cases, I )y identifying Point Breakers with tho mainland Point Esti^'van, south of Nor metal, hut not ca/ing for heads or oh>tli, Tiiey came on hoard the shi[)s witliout the shghtest timichty, icid L^ave no other trouble than tliat resulting i'rom tlieir ]>etty thefts, whieh the closest watch could not t.ntii'cly prevent. They were ready to fight with their neighlxn-s for the exclusive privileu'e (jf tradiuLT v.itli the strangers, and they expected tho latter to j)ay for the wood, water, and grass obtained from their country. Cook's long stay enabled him to give uu extended and accurate description of tho country and of its people, but this description, like tho earlier ji'.id somewhat less complete ones of Perez and Cuadra, has of course no place in these pages. Captain Cook noticed, as Perez had done before him, t.hat the natives had many articles of iron and copper, whit'h must have come from abroad; and he rightly . oncluded that all could not liave been obtained I'rom any one foreign navigator visiting the coast. Two silver spoons worn as ornaments by a native who came from a place south of Nootka, suggested an earlier visit by the Spaniards; and the failure of tho Indians to exhibit any surprise at sight of the ships ])()iute(l in the same direction; but it could not bo I'arned from the Indians that they had ever seen a sliip hefore, and their astonishment at the penetrative ])ower of a musket-ball indicated that the discharge of tire-arms was new to them. Accordingly Cook con- cluded, incorrectly, that the 8[)anish vessels had never i)eon at Nootka; yet it is not stated that he took pos- session of the country for England. Having made the somewhat extensive repairs re- t'.osL'ly examineil, shows that Point Breakers was on tho island — eitlicr the I'dint Pia j(j or Point Macuina of hxter maps, or Perez' Point Santa Clara, if ho V, a.s at Xootka Sound — and that the mainland point below was not named at iiil. M idcrn maps differ widely iu both names and coast contour on this part ot tlie coast. m nXPLORATION OF TUK XORTIIWKST fOASf. I qnirod l)y liis vessels; obtained full supplies of water, wood, fisli, L^rass, and spiiice-beer; and made soiiks toiU's of ox])loi'atioii round tlit; sliorus of the sound, of wliieli a cliai't was j»ul)lislied with Ids naiTative, (^aptain ('ook sailed on April "JOth from Nootka tor the north, to undertake ex[)lorations voiy much moi'e ex- tensive and important than those hei'e recorded, hut which l)i']oni^ to a later volume, the Illstorji of Al(ish:i. Of the Northwest Coast ho had seen much less than I'eri'/, Heceta, and Cuadi-a; nor, with tlio exception of Xootka Sound, had his descri[)tion of the i-ejjiioiis visited l)een more eom])li'te than theiis. J^ike t!ie Spaniards, he had missed the enti'ance of the strait; and like them he had not suspected that the nortiiei-n shores were those of islands, and not of the uiain. ])Ut (V)ok had established the loniL>'itude of the coast much more accurately than his predecessors hy mere dead-i'eckoniu!^ had been able to do; and by the acci- dental carryini^ away of a small collection of I'urs, whose threat value was learned in Siberia and CUiina, he orii^inated the u'reat fur-trade which l)ecame the chief incentive of all later English and ^Vmerican ex- peditions to these regions. jSloreover, the results of his voyao'o were fully and promptly made known to the world, as those of the Spaniards had not been; and thus were practically won for Cook and England the honors of discovery and of naming the points c-x- plored. S})ain, with her unwise policy of concealment, had no just cause for complaint, though to the real discoverers individually great injnsticc was done. Orders for .' new Spanish expedition to the nortli were issued in 17 (\ as soon as the results of the last one were know Delays ensued for various reasons, chiefly the lack ' suitable vessels, and it was not until the beginning < 1779 that evcrvthinsjf was readv. One vessel, the \iror>'ta, was brought up from Peru, and another, the Pn'iu-esd, was built for the voyage nt San Bias. Heceta had at first been named as com- n.vxxAS AnvKXTinins. J78 nniulcr, luit before tlu; ])ii'j)arati()ns \vh'1'(> <'()ii»])i;jt('(l J^icLitc'iiant Jgiiat-io Arteana was apjJoiiitL'tl in Jiis place. Lieutenant Ciiudra was, as bel'oio, second in fr»nniiaii(l, tlioULfii lio oui^lit to liave been lirst, in con- ^;i(lel•at ion of forinei' services. The expedition sailed i'rom San lUas Februaiy II, 177!), and letui'iied to the same port November 2 1st. The explorations of ^Vr- U'lv^ti and ('uadi'a in Alaska wore extensive, and in a sense, Cook's achievements being unknown to tho Spaniards, im|iortant; but they are not to be recorded here, for the J*n'nci'sa and Faroritu ilid not touch tlie coast hetween latitude^' !:2'and 5;") , nor even California until the return.** '^riio north-west coast was rej^-arded as Hlrea<'y fully explored, and as a lenitimato posses- sion of Spain. By a cedula of ^lay 10, 1780, the kint^' (jrdered that voyages dc allitra should cease.' It was seven years after Cook's departure before the Northwest Coast was visited by another European vessel. In 1785 a brig of sixty tons was despatched from China under Captain James Ifonna in ([uest of i'urs. It was an ICnglish ex»)edition, but it is not (|uite clear whether this pioneer craft of the fur-trade sailed under Portuguese colors or under the En<»'lish ilag with a license fix)m the East India Comj)any. Jlanna left China in April and reached Nootka in .Vugust. The natives attacked his small force of twenty men, but were repulsed, and thereupon became friendly and willing to trade. Having obtained from ^Artca;ia, Tinrra expJoradon lirrhit cl afin 1770 con las Fraf/afax (hi ivi/, la 'Priiircsa,^ iitaii'lfi'ld, par nl tciiiiiitf tie iiario ilon [iinnr'o A rh'Ujd, ?/ In, 'Favor'itu^ ]ii>r cl (!c la iiilnnia claie iluii Juan Fninctsro ih la Ho l",ia y i'limlra, dimlc V. .1/. en III C'lsfa Kcpfriitrloiiul dc (JaliJ'iriu, MS.; tlio saino diary ill il'iyv,^ .l/.y.y., No. i;S, and also in tlio I'inart coUectiou. As to the visit to Califiirnia in ivtm-niiisr. suo H'l^t. Cal., i. chap. xv. "liu-itla-UiijcJo, 1,'ijonuc, IJ Abril, 17'JJ, p. 1-J3. 174 EXPLORATIOX OF THE XORXmVEST COAST. them a valuable lot of five liumlrcd and .sixty sea- otter skins, which were sold for twenty thousand six hundred dollars, the captain proceeded up the coast, naming Sea-otter Harhor and St Patrick Bay, in 50' 4L', near the northern end of the island. Tlie fornirr name has been retained; tlie latter changed to St Joseph. Leaving Nootka in September, he reacihed Macao in December. Such is the only inforaiation extant respecting this first voyage of its class, di- rivod at second-hand fi'oni tlie statements of other voyagers. Of a second voyage l)y Hanna in the Sra Ottci' of one hundred and twenty tons, in 178(5, v.' know still less — barely the fact that such a voyagv; was made; and that he spent two weeks in Augusc at Xootka, obtaining oidy tifty skins, and fifty mor'.; on oth< parts of the const, which he left on Octobei- 1st. Hanna seems to have discovered and named Smitli Inlet and FitzhuLrh Sound.^" The famous Frencli navigator La Perouse, scttin;;- out in 1785 on a scientific ex-ploring expedition roun I the world, an expedition destined to be fatal to him, as was that of 1778 to Cook, was instructed to ex- amine such parts of north-western America as ha'I not been ex[)lored ])y Cook, to seek for an iuteroceani-.>' passage, to make scientific observations on tlie country, with its people and products, and to obtain reliable infarniation about the fur-trade. He was to learn the extent of the Spanisli establisliments, the latitude beyond which peltries might be obtained witliouC giving ofi'ence to Spain, and in general the induct - '"Also Vir;.'iii Island aii'l Ponrl llocl;/!, according lo Vrtiiroii:vi-''i I'l//-' '■ 3()9-70. l>i.v(iii .s' To//., pp. xvii.-wiii., xxii., 'l',\l, .'U,")-17,iind PnrI 'ork' i^ Voij.. S, luuko tlio earliest inenLion, in ITS'); tliat in J/ih/v.s' Vu'I., pp. l.-ii., of ITi' •, is foniewliat nioi'o extensive, tlii! author having seen llamia's original ionrn;il. 'lie di;eovci'eil .seveial Hounds, i.-^lands, and Uarh^inrs, which he naincil Fit/- Iiugli'a Sound, Lanec'ti Ishmds, and :jonu' ])articular ]iaits which lie named alter Ifcnry Lane, l'^s(j.; l)nt particularly an liarhoiir vvhicli Ik; called Sea, Otter's llarljour.' llanna's chart or sketcli of that liarl)i>r anil of St I'ah'iik J>ay i< puhlislicil liy .Mean's, WH'i. Dixon also ii ed Hanna's chart. I'crhaps tlio );t'oi^rapliical iliscoverics mentioned wi're niadTapliieal point of view, wen? neither extensive nor important, so far as theyaffeeted t'lese latitudes ;^^ and, thouL>'h the seientiiic observa- tions of himself and a tainted eorps of associates an? of un(piestioncd value, his information on connnercial ;>!id other practical topics was published t(Jo late to attract or merit much attention. Especially were his il'scoveries unimportant as touching the Xorthwcst ("oast.^- (A)ming from the Sandwich Islands on the ^isfro- I'hc and Boassole, the former itnder the connnand o1' rd. de Langle, the French navigator saw land on .lime 'I-], 1781), and spent a month and a half on tin' Alaska coast, below Blount St Elias, chietly at Poi't (les Francais, in 58° 37'. It was on August 9th that ]^a Fiiruuse entered the waters about the present biiundary. lie noticed, but Avas ttnable to explore, tile entrance which the S[)aniards had found before, and v/jiich Dixon a little later named. ITe followed the coast soutliward without landing, in haste to reach ]\[onterey after his long delav in the north. The southern extremity of the great island he named Cap(; ] lector; and he was the discoverer of the broad en- trance south of tliat })oint, believing, though unai>l(! to j)r()ve it, [hat lie was at the mouth of a great gulf like that of California, extending north proijably to r)7' He does not state deiinitely his opinion that the gulf conununie'itcd with the Dixon entrance, but ii;i[>lie(l tliat it did so, and with other entrances farther north — indeed, that the whole coast seen was that of a great archipelago. The names apjtlied " Ste l/ist. Cal., i. ch;.£). xxi., for liis visit to Califoruiii; jiIho I [!.■<(. Aiislit, tliis suriL's. '-/yii /'■■roiiDi', Voi/iiijc. . .n:itniir i/n uwiuh . Piiris, ITOS; Svo,4v(i!s. niiil foli;> alias. Tliut imi'tol' tlio naiiiilivc jKi'tiiiniiiL; to tii."> ami \'l is ill toiii. ii. ::.")4 7S. In toin. i. .'U.">-()4 is a translatoil extract from Maurdle'.s ■lii'irn'il of tlio Spanisli voyage of 177!K in tlio atlas, maps ;{. I.'), Ui, 17, l'!), aail ,'tl show ail or part of tin; territory, on diU'eruiit soalcs. I'luiv arc several t'litioiis hotli of tlie Freiicli original ami of an I'Jiiglisli truiislalioii. L. A. Milel-.Murcaii was the editor ul tlie origiiuil. 176 EXPLORATION OF THE NORTHWEST COAST. - hA I'euolsk's Mai', ITiSG. MEARES, TIPPIXtt, AXD STRANGE. 177 arc shown on the map which I ropy, and which is remarkably complete, if we consider the limited ma- terial on which it rested. Though far su})erior to any map made before 178G, its value was of course much impaired by the fact that it was not published until 1793. La Perouso's names were su[)erso(led by others which later English navigators ap[)lied before the French narrative was known to the world. The vovaijre was continued down past Nootka and the southern coast, with occasional glimpses of the coast as the fog lifted; the latitude of several points was fixed moi'c accurately than ever before, the English and Spanisli names being retained, and that of Xecker Island being aj)plied to the rocks oft* Cape Blanco; the lino of 42^ was passed on September Oth, and on the 14th they anchored at Monterey, 13 Rond 'oledo ICurda iida In 178G at least three distinct fur-trading expedi- tious were despatched to the Amei'ican coasts; one of them, consiriting of the Xootka and Sea Offer, under ca})t;iins ]\Icares and Tipping, was fitted out in ]>eiigal, and, its trading operations being conlin' the savai>'es with a native wife, well treated hut eiidurinj^ nuuiy hardships. Subse- cpiently Strange sailed on up the coast to Prince William Sound, and thence to jMacao. He seems to have discovered — and named, according to Caj)tain ])ix()n's statement — Queen Charlotte Sound; and he probahly named ca[)es Scott and Cox." The third expedition of the year was one fitted out the year before in England by an association (jf mer- chants called the King George's Sound Company, acting under licenses from both the South Sea and East IiuHa monopolies. Their ships were the Kinu (reoiyc and (^ticcn Charloffc, commanded by Nathaniel Portl(K.'k and George ])ixon. Both of tliese gentle- men had been with Cook, and each of them published a full account of their voyage; so that in this respect, as also in respect to the vessels' outfit, the expedi- tion bore much resend)lance to one of exploration. ] ligh ofiicials took an interest from a scientilic stand- })oint in the enterprise, and several gentlemen's sons Avere committed under tutors to Captain Portlock to be educated for a seafaring life. Leavino; Eni^land in August 1785, Portlock and Dixon sailed round Cape Horn, touched at the Sandwich Islands, as was cus- tomary in these voyages, and in July 1780 arrived at Cook River, in Alaska. Soon the navigators stai'ted down the coast, intend- ing to touch at several different points, and finally to winter at Nootka. Some of the Jiai'bors, however, were not found where sought, and others could not be entered by reason of bad weather, so that the vessels ilid not anchor at all. They were t)n the coast, gen- >■' Mvarrx'' Vol/., liii.-iv.; nij-on\i Vmj., 2.12. .117-lS, (ind other refciviuTS on ][:ii. ;;;.'« voyiigo in iioto 8. Shares saw MclCcy'^* jimi'liiil, and ho smvs S.ran';o iini'iril Friendly Cove. Dixon used Onisc's cliart fur lii-i i^cncr.il ni;ii'. t.> 111" cuj.icd jirivciitly, and hv. got uu account of Mclvcy's advcntiu'c^ fioiu iiarclay, wlio carried him away. rORTLOCK AND DIXON. 173 orally in sight of it at a distance, from 55" clown to Nootka, from tlio I7tli to tlio 2Stli of So[)temI)cr, but their work as explorers was limited to the naming of Split Hock, otf Cook's Woody Point. From this rc'-ion thev went to winter at the Sandwicli Islands, this lirst voyage being in most respects a failure.' 10 Portlock and Dixon repeated their vo^-age in 1787, with much success, both in respect to trade and geo- graphical exploration. Leaving the islands in ^larcJi, I'ley proceeded to Prince William Sound, where they met Captain ]\Iearcs, whose first voyage of 178G-7 has already been mentioned. The vessels parted com- pany in May, the Kiny Gcoiye remaining on tlie Alaskan coast and the Queen C/iorlofte })roceeding southward. It was on July 1st that Di.xon passed the boundary lino and was oif the 'deep bay,' whoso enri'cnts had baffled Juan Perez thirteen years before, and wliich from this time bore TJixon's name. IL« did not enter it, any more than the Spaniards am.. I'i'enclunenhad befoi'e hiia; but far within, to the east- ward, he saw a point of land to be remembered, and ]i:isse;l on down the coast. Keeping close to the shore, without landing, but trading cxtensiv(!ly with the In- dians, who came off in their canoes, he named several points, some of which had already been named b}-- La Perouse, though this was of course not known to the Englishman," '''/'orf/.ic/.% A rnj/fi'ic round tlic irorhl : hiil mori' jKir/iriihirfi/ lo /hr vorth- vr.-<', in the 'Khiij dionji'' uiid '(Jwiii C/iarlu/U',' L'(i/j/niiis J'diiloi'L- niitl lliroit. Lijiiiloii. 17M); ■tt'i. in.'ip ami twoiity coppcrjilntes. 'I'lic part ri'latiii!,' to tlio incsciit topic is on jiji. ll{.")-12, app., xxiv. The map does not covt'four territory. J)i.roi>, ^1 mi/ii'jt'. i-liiikI thv iriifld, etc. (as aliove). Loiitloii, ITS!); 4to, iimp ami plates; also a sniiiHl eilitioiiof the same year. The narrative is in the form of lettursas chap- ters, each Ijearin;^ a, tlato anil the initialn ' W. 1>. ' (Wm. llerresford). The pai'fc of tlie text relating to this subject i.s on pp. 7t)-S;i. The map will be nijticcd jirescntly. '' The names applied, most of them still i-ctaincd, were Forrestor'H Island (Santa ("ristina, ("atalina, or San Carlos of the Sjianiards an/',;()/r,s I'o//. , l!).S--JI:7, considerahle space being given to a description of the natives; Purllork'x I'o//., 307; Mcareit' Voy., liii.-iv, and appendix; Grcvii lioir'n Or. ami Cal., l(»!)-7(). '-'' hixoiix Iloimrkif on the Voi/nni'fi of John Jfeareri, Ex(/., in a Jitter tn thuf, robably seen at a distance; and, departing in Au- gust or early in September, he reached Canton in November. Mrs Barclay had accompanied her hus- band, and was, perhaps, the first European lady to visit this region.^'^ Captains Duncan and Colnett commanded the Piificc'Sfi lioyal and Prince of Wales, which wero fitted out by the same company that despatched Portlock and Dixon, loft England in September, and arrived at Nootka in July. Here, as we have seen, they met Barclay, and a little later Dixon. From the latter they learned that the best opportunities for ti-ado were to be found on Queen Charlotte Islands, and thither presumably they directed their course, instead of going to Prince William Sound, as had been intended. Of their subsequent movements wo know, from fragmentary references in the narratives of other traders, only that Duncan wintered on the coast, returning the next year to Nootka; that his trip was a successful one commercially; and that he sailed througli the strait between Queen Charlotte Island and the main. Whether this was in the autumn of 1787 or the spring of 1788 is not clear; but I deem it as likely to have been in the former, though Greenhow and ^leares inijdy the latter. At any rate, ho was the first to make this passage and prove the correctness of the earlier conjectures of La Perouse and Dixon. Qiieonhythe, that is. Quenaiult, the name of a stream farther south. Mearos tin; iiuxt year at Nootka found among the natives a seal that had Ijelonged t:> Millar, and also what was supposed to bo his hand or that of one of his nicn. Dixon, Itetnark'i, 33, gives the latitudes from Barclay's chart, as given oil a maji published by Dalryniplc in I7S[>, as fidlows : West point of Barclay Sound, 49"; south point, 48' 50 ; north point De I'Var's (De Fnca's?) entrance, 48'3.T; south point, 48" 2G'; centre of Tallock's Island (TatoucheVj 48' '24'; Tape Flattery, 48' 8'; Pinnacle, 47" 47'; Destnictiou River, 47' 43'; Point Fear (possibly Gronville), 47' 9'. '"irixofi's Voii., '231-3, 320; Id., liewarl.s, 9, 12, 18, 33; Jfrarcs' I'o//.,lv. 28, 124, 132, 172; Portlock'n Voi/., 307; ilrccnhow's Or. and Cat., 171, 4G0. 184 EXPLORATION OF THE NORTHWEST COAST. Dunoan also discovered, and named fur hin vessel, the Princess Royal Isles.*" In 17S8 the Spaniards sent another cxjiedition to tlie f'ai' north, which, however, concerns my present toi)ic only indirectly, since it did not touch the coast between 42" and 55\ The vessels were the Prineesa and S(i)i Cdrlds, connnanded by Estevan Jose ^lar- tinez and (Jonj^alo Lopez de Haro, whose njissiou waM to ascertain what the Russians were doin^'. The royal order was itisued in consequence of a repoi-t of La Perouse — on his visit to Chile before goinuf north — that the Russians had already four establishments, one of them at Nootka. The ])rcli'".iinary corres])()nd- ence on the expedition of Martinez shows very clearly the form that Spanish policy was boginnin;^ to as- sume. There was no objection to the occupati(Mi by Russians of the far north; but it was feared that by Russia or some other foreign power posts would be established farther south, not only encroaching on 8])anish territorial rights, but threatening Spanish settlements. There was of course no doubt respecting the right of Spain to the lands she had discovered up to the rejijion of G0°; she had some theoretical rights bevond that rcfjion, which, however, there was no apparent intention of attempting to enfcjrce ; and even the region from Nootka southward was be- gimiing to a})pear of slight comparative value, to l>e occupied only as a political necessity to prevent foi'cigu encroachment and secure the possession of any desirable strait, river, or port that might pos- sibly be revealed by new explorations. Accordingly Martinez was instructed not only to learn as much as '^Dixon's Vol/., 230-4; Id., Pemarbi, 8-10, 19, 28; Meares' Vo>j.,lv. 10."., 190-201; Greeiihow\i Or. and VaL, 170, 199. Dixoii says that Dmicmrs course was laid down in Arrowsmith's chart, and denies Alearcs' implication that Douglas prccedetl him in sailing throujjh the strait. According to Vancouver, To;/., i. 309-70, he also named Calvert Island and Port .Safety. Vancouver had his chart. KENDRICK AInT) GRAY. ISd ])()ssil)lo of Kussian operations in Alaska,^^ l)ut on his I'lituru to follow the coast anain niij^^ht therefore become necessary. The latter ]>art of the instructions, for no good reason that is kiif)wn, was not obeyed, the voyagers returning to ^Fontorey and San ]31as direct; I)ut they understood that the Russians, though they had no establishment at Nootka, intended to found one there; they learned something also of the operations of English tra1)ort (j!r;iy ('<)iniiian(U'(l tlio sloop T/ifhi Wosfiiii;/f-^ '% ■ V^-^.ic-Jf •hi ir - J i'l. k f^f J'BARllEIili, llfil J-DAnBY,C'HATCH, *^ H By JV^ J-M*PlNTARD. /^if The Colttmbta Medal. ment, not consulted hv any writer heforc mo. Indeed it does not apjiear that any other log of cither vessel has evei- heen seen; and consequently nothing but a brief mention of the expedition has been j)ublislied As a narrative of the first visit of an American vessel -'"So it is stntt'il Ly Grccnliownncl others, possibly without good authority. At «ny r.'ito tlio n witli n brief account of the voj'agc in (iieenhow's Or. mid < '<(!., 17!I-HI ; in I ' it/jiiich's Or. and El JJorado, l-(i. Tlie latter gives some details aboi.l, the ori;^in of the enterprise in a conver.siitinn at the residence of J)r Jhiltinch— iiei'iaps a, relative of the writer — in lioston. The voyagers also carried a iir,>ni-','i' of small copper coins i.ssued by the stati;. One fif the nic lals is preserveci ii, tiic office of the secretary of state at Sahiii. Dirijoii Itclirs, JIS., 1. See also //Lit. Miiday, October 1st, the start was made fi'om Xan- tasket Itoads, whither the guests had itoen cai-ried IVom l>oston Harhor. Progress southward in the Atlantic was attended by many delays, for which Caittain Kendi-ick is blamed by Haswell, as foi* other UMWiso iirocee(nn<'"s (luiinii' rnc vova-n th am I it was t!ie middle of Api'il 1788 before they rounded Capo J [orn into the Pacific, the sloop and ship beini^ jiai'ted in a gale a month earlier. Xootka was the rendezvous, and thither Captain Cray made all hasto in tlie Lad'i Wnshuhjfim, withrut touching on the coasts of South America or ^[e\ic(^. It was on August 2d that (iray, with *ineN])rcs- l.k snuo J^T. first saw the shores of New Albion, i II latitude 41° 28'; and on the 4th ten natives came off in a canoe to greet the strangers. Notwithstand- ing the latitudes and landmarks mentioned I iind it iiiij)()ssiblo to trace with any degrt.'o of ac(,'uracy the ]»rog)-ess made along the coast, almost always in sight of land; and it is not easy to understan.") iip. 'I'liis nuiiatiw, ami iinotlicf (if a later voyage, were f:;iveii me liy CapUiin llas\vell".s ilau^iitoi-, Mrs.Idlm.l. Clarke of IJoxbnry, Massachusetts. Tlie jouiiial extends from tli(! beL'iiiniiijj of tlie voyage to .Time 1780. Haswell stai-teil on tlie Coliiiiili/a, Imt was transferred to the Lailij Wcuhhiiilan liefore eiiteiing the I'aeilie. Ho names .losepii Iiigraham as second mate of the ''o'linili/'i, Ho've as Kendriek's ilerk, Itiiherts as surgeon, Trect as furriei-, and Niittiii as ast'Miioiiier. A Mr (.-'oolidge is often named, who was probably first mate of the A'"/// ]Vf the cape the bout was sent to explore the shoiv, the sloop sailing along about a mile awaj'; at '';.10 v. M. passed an ii-.let, in 44' 'JO', apparently the mouth of a very largo river, with not water enough foi-the sloop to enter. Natives appeared very hostile. |Tliis,afieordiiig to the latitude, nnist be the Alseya of modern maps.] In 45° two Indians of di'i'ereiit lan'jnages and of fi'iendly disposition came od'. August 10-11, lati- tude 4.") ' •!', 44 ' .'')S'; boat out in search for a landing ; slight trailc witli natives. August I'Jth, the Ixjat obtained two loads of wood from a small inlet. Au'rusfc l.'itli, latitude 4") ,")()' at noon; in evening j)assed ii tolerable harbor, with a l)ar. August 14th, returned to explore the hai'bor, which, after exploration by the boat, the sloop entered, anchoring half a mile from shore in two an' 10', where the current kept him for nine days from entering: and (Jreenhow, Or. and <'(if., LSI, '2.'t4, erroneously concludes that this .Murderers' Harbor 'was the month of the great river snice called the Columbia. . .because there is no evidence or reason to snjipose that ay anil Cray llarboi-.] August 'Jlst, at 7 a. m. Oi'cen Island bore N. four miles, and (,)ninelth N. \. K. seven miles; latitude 47' .'W. August •i'_*-4, con- trary winds; latitude 47' 4.'V. August '2.')th, craggy and detached rocks and reef.-i: Latitude 47' 57'. August '2(ith, some distance oil' shore, but in sight; latitude 4.S' 5'; 'to the i;. N. i;. lay a very dee|> bay. in whose entrance lie many islands,' named Company B;iy, and doubtless has good harbors. jTliis was liarclay Somid, .so that he missed the entrame of the strait named j"uc;i by Meares a little earlier.] August '27th, snowy monnfauns in the distance; latitude 4S^ I'.V. August '2.Sth, calm; latitude 48' 53'; visited by many natives familiar with English names. August '20-lU, narrowly escaping wreck on sunken rocks; reached Hancock':' Harbor, in 40' 0' [(^hiyoipiot Sound], wcio visited by the chief Wicanauish, and set sail. Septendjcr 1-2, a gale; driven s. to 4.S'"0'. Sciitendier H-5, to latitude 48' 50'. September (5-0, to sight ..f Point ilreakcrs ; latituile 50' '22'. September 10th, latitude 40' .'»:V. September 11-15, gales; in Hope Bay, fcieptember lUth, uiiuhurcd in Xootka Sound. FIGHT WITH THE NATIVES. 180 also purcliascd iM exchange for iron implements, though copper was more in demand. The natives freely gave up their furs, and took what was oftered in re- turn without the slightest complaint. Wood and water were obtained; and then, while waiting for a tide, the two mates, Coolidgc and Haswell, went ashore witli seven men for the benefit of their health, and to get a load of grass and shrubs for the vessel's live-stock. Tliis was on Saturday, August IGth. The Indians received them in a most friendly manner, invited them to tlieir houses, and anuised them with a war- dance and an exhibition of skill with arrows and spears. Presently, however, while the officers were searching for clams at a little distance, and the men were cutt ing grass near the boat, an Indian seized a cutlass whicli the captain's servant — a native of the Cape Verde Islands, named Marcos Lopez — had left sticking in the sand, and rnn away with it, Lo[)ez following in pursuit. The chiefs wei'e offered I'ewards to brinu' the boy back unliurt, but refused, urging the Ameiicans to seek him themselves. On the oiHcers and owi man doing so they found Lopez, who had caught the tliief, suri'ounded by a group of Indians, who at once killed Loj)ez with tiieir knives and arrov.s, and then attacked the tliree, as did another large body of sav- ages in the rear under the chiefs who had sent them that v^ay. The situation was desperate, but by a dili- gent use of their pistols the three Americans, iiWvr killing the boldest of tlioir assailants, succeiulcd in reaching tlie shore and '"'i wading oif to the lioat, all Wounded, the sailor v-rv seriously. The savaires pur- sued in canoes, but tin- boat reached the slooj), and a lew discharges of the swivel-gun di-ove the savages hack; but all night they kept up their whoops and howling on shore. Two days moiv [)assed belbi'e the Jak/i/ \Vas/iiii(jtun could leave ^Nlui-derers' Harbor, strik'- • dangerously on the bar; and meanwhile the swivci-gun had to be fired again. Proceeding up the coast and trading often with the ( I ll 190 EXPLORATIOX OF THE XOIITHWEST COAST. natives, the navio'ator.s rnot with iiothinsf rcmadaihlo in the way of adventure or discovery. Haswell writes : "I am of opinion that the straits of Juan de Fuca exist, though Captain Cook posii,ively asserts tliuy do not, for in the very latitude where they are said to lie, the coast takes a bend which very probably ini\y be the entrance." A little farther north they noted the entrance of Barclay Sound and called it Coni- j)any Bay. They found frequent indications of the Englishmen's visits; narrowly escaped shipwreck ; and, the last day of August, entered Hancock Harbor, as they named Clayo(|uot, where they were honored witli a visit from the chief Wicananish. Beyond this point they had gales and fog; and it was not until Septem- ber IGtli, almost a year from Boston, that the L'^r/y WoHliinijtoa was towed into Nootka Sound l>y tlie aid of boats from the vessels of Meares and Douulas lying at anchor there. Ca})tain Gray's intercourse \\\i\\ the Englislimen, ^vhose operations in this region will presently bu- noticed in detail, was very agreeable, and they showed him many polite attentions, besides permitting their smith to assist in certain repairs to the sloop. Yet Captain Meares did his best to discourage the Amer- icans from engaging in trade, and es[»ecially fi'om winterimjc on the coast, to do which he insisted was jnadness and sure destruction. He even went so far as to assure Gray on his word of honor, but most falsely, that his vessels had nt)t succeeded in obtiiin- ing over lifty skins during the s<.ason. During the stay of the Englishmen no trade whatever, either foi" furs or food, could be cairied on in the sound, the natives being una[)proachable. Hiiswell states that this was in consequence of ]\[eares' custom of taldng their property by force, preventing their escaj)e by a free use of musket-balls, and giving them in payment s».ch trilles as he chose. On Sej)tember IDth or 'JOlh the Americans witnessed the launching ^^'i ]\Ieai'es' new schooner, firing a salute; and on the 2iJd their QUESTIONABLE CONDUCT. 191 boats hclixxl to tow tho Felice out of tlio harbor.^ On \\v.i departure Ca[)taiii Meaivs oHei'ed to carry lettd'H to China; but by his consort's l^oats ri'turned the j)acket, on the plea that it was not certain at what ])ort in India he might touch, thus preventing Gray I'roni sending the letters by some of his officers or men 30 On Septeml)er 22d or 23d the Colnmhia and Captain Kendrick made their appearance. Nothing is known of her trip IVom Cajjc Horn save that it liad been a stormy one, tliat she had touched at Juan Fernandc;/, and had lost two men from scurvy. October 1st was cilebiated as the anniversary of departure from Bos- ton, (Japtain Douglas of the Iphiyviiia firing a salute, and the oflicei's of all four vessels dining on board tho C'llionhia. The two vessels under Captain Douglas Were towed witli Kendrick 's aid out of the haibor on October 2()th, bound for the Sandwich Iskmds. Ou thi' departure of the Englishmen the natives lost all thi ir lear, and su})[)lied all the ibod that was needed. Ivendrick decided to winter at Xootka, an»l made })reparations to build a house on slioro and to rig the sloop into a hivj:, thou!>-h both of tliese schemes were abandoned; indeed, if we may credit liaswell, Cap- tain Kendrii'k was nuich addicted to whims and ever varying plans never })ut into execution. The winter jtassi (i without other excitement than that arising i'lotn hunting and fishing adventures, the discussion oi' Kc! iriclv's vaiious l)etty schemes, the stealing of . l'i-rfiiniiiil ill l',Si'i,J'ritm Jii mjuf, in the nhip 'Xootka'; oh.'ii rnitiuiis on the pruhali'v cxiKlciiro ij' (t miiih irc-t jia.'< vo/c ; and .siniie arcoiiiit af the trade lietiirea the iiarlh VI si. roust vf Aiiierieii and ( 'hiini; and the latter coiiiitr// and tlreat BritMU. Jl'l ,/i>hii. Meiin.-i, L'.'iii. Lomlou, 17!)0; 4to, portrait, maps, and charts. 'J'lio ' Jiilroductoiy N'oyajje,' jip. i.-xl., contains the author's version of his trouhln Willi I'ortloek and Dixoii, with orijjmal correspondence. In the 'Observa- tions,' ]>p. xlii.-lxvi., the author argues that the north-west passage may yet betound, relying not on the old fanciful theories, but ehielly on the facts that lluilsoii r>ay iiiid not bei'ii completely explored, and that the late voyagers, including himself, had found on the I'acilic side a complicated net-work of islands and straits, solium of which latter might very likely allbnl the desired ])assage. 'J'hougii marked l)y some inaccuracies of statement, the argument is far s'ronger than most of tlios(! on this subject that I have noted in cariiir chai)i(.'rs; and tiie author introduces a brief sketch of the late trailing voyages. I'iie ' AccTi, arfc addressed to IVIeaies and ] louglas as eaptains; but in some of the documents lelatuig to the troubles of the next year ( 'avalho ami Comjiany are named ;;.i owners of one of the vessels; i;i onedoeunient Franeis.Josiplj Viana is namiil iis captain of tlie /jiliii/i'iiid, with J )ougla.s as supercargo; ^Icares, in his Minn- r'idf, once names \'iana as 'second eajitain'; Douglas, in hii\J(iirniril, once nn !i- (ions instnu'lio;;S iiithe Portuguese languag(,'; ( !ray nmllugridiani testitied in lateryeais to tin; fact tliat tlie vessels were under Pt)rtuguese colors, cai)taiiis, and papers; and I'ually Ifaswell found the vessels under Portuguese colors. All tiiis is Miliicieiit to support the conclusions in tlu! text, whieli are mainly i Icntical with those of Mr ( licenhow, Or. tnid ( 'al., \~-2-'A. 'J'his writer says; 'Tliere is no suli'icient jiroof that any other fthau the J'ortugueso flag] v.as (lisplajed by them during tlie ( xpedilion.' This is in a Kense true, bat his jiaitisanship is somewhat toil apparent in the statement that the J'ortaguc'io sulijeets iigure as the leal commanders ' in all the pa]ier);' and that 'tlie doc- uments aunextd to the J/('//(o/v'«/ eonelusively ])rove that all these diiccpti.e appearances were kejit up at TVootka ;' and he certainly has no reason to impiy, as he (loos, that the idea of this being an b^nglish and not a Portuguese expe- dition was entirely au after-thougiit, devised for the purpose of obtaining Englisli proteeiioa. MAQUIXXA ^^^D C.VLLICUM. 195 or- ! VL'I'.SL'is (ir itiim M'as !(>ri(if 111' niost i!;ivt Dciimcnts naiiicil ;■! i-i iiaiiK'd li.H J/ilio- OlICO 1)H!1- A'stilii'il in (■;Hitili;is, :■(; iiiiii:i!y ■itcrKMV^i: fla;/] i)^;;s ', liiit hi-f Dl'tUgllC'll (Icfl'pli.'C to im|ii,v, iK'so I'xpr- oljtaiiuii'ri tions to follow tl 10 coast soutlnvanl; and her movo- iiioiits will be noted later. The Felice, Captain ^leares, had a force of fifty men, crew and artisans, a considerable number of each class hein^' Chinese. Coniekela, a native chief of Nootka, brouLrht away by one of the eai'lier yoyai>-es, returned homo on this vessel, while the Tpltiyeiiia carried also Tiana, a younj^ Hawaiian chief, bound homeward to the Sandwich Islands by way of America. Especial pains is said to have been taken with the outiit; but the Americans state that the vessels were very poorly jirovided with everything except articles of trade. America was siglited on jMay 11th; and two days later the Felice anchored in Nootka Sound, liaving sighted, without speaking, the Pfincess lioyal, Captain Duncan, which had just left the har])or on her homeward trip.''' Coniekela, who is called a brother of Mat[uinna and a relative of Callicum, the two being the great chiefs of Nootka, was received by his countrymen with great festivities of welcome. The Englishmen had come prepared to build a small vessel; and their first occupation was to erect a house for the workmen and stores. INIaquinna, the chief, made no objections, but gave them a spot for tlie house, promised native assistance, and appointed Callicum as a kind of guardian to protect the strangers in their operations. In return for his kindness ]\Ia- quinna was given two jiistols, for which he had shown a fancy, an(l was promised the building itself when the builders should leave the coast. ^Meares, how- ever, chose to operate on the native fears as well as their gratitude, by explaining his power; and I'ound tlie r.cw house, which was two stories high, built of vroovl, he threw U]) a breastvv'ovk, and on it mounted a small cannon. There is notlilng in ]\leares' narra- tive or instructions to indicate an intention of ac- (piiring permanent possessions at Nootka, either for ^'' Tl\at part of Mcares' uairative relating to his experience iii Aincrioa be^'iutj oil p. 103. mo EXPLORATION OF THE NORTHWEST COAST. himself or any nation, but everything to show tliat the house was built for temporary purposes only. The circumstances of tlie case, and the testimony of men who arrived a little later, point in the same direction. In later years, however, when claiming the protection of England, Meares set up the claim that he had bought the land, and also stated that the English Hag had been raised over the building. It matters little Avhich version was true ; but obviouslv the narrative is to be trusted rather than the Memorial?^ On the shore outside the enclosure the keel of a vessel was laid, and the work was pressed forwaid with all due speed. The natives remained friendly, and many otter-skins wore purchased. At first the trtide was regulated by a fixed scale of prices; l)ut latei', so says the narrative, a system of mutual gifts was adopted — a system which, according to !Mr Haswell, as the reader will remcndicr, consisted in the Englishmen seizing all they could get their hands on, and giving the Indians such trill es as could best be spared. But this accusation nmst be taken witli much allowance, since Captain ]\Ieares was by no means so stupid as to i-uin his prospects for future trade by such wholesale theft. At some one of tlie later interchanges of gifts the savages may ha\o deemed themselves overieached, whence the dissatis- ^^ Haswell simply f.ays: Taptaiii Mcarcs, avrivinr; here some time beforo Captain Douglas, landeil his second oHicer, Mr Funtc-'r, and a jiarty of artili- »;ers, who first built a tolerably stron;; fjarrison, aud then went to work buihl- iiijj; Ji small schooner of al)out .SO tons.' Caj.tiiin Uraj' aud !Mr Ingrahani Bul)se(juontly testilied that * On the arrival of tlic Colnnibia, in the year 17SS, tliere wa3 a house, or rather a hut, couKisting of rough posts, covered wit'i bo:irds, made by the Indians ; but this Ca]itain Douglas pulled to pieces, prior to his sailing for tlie Sandwioli Islands, the same year. The l)oards he took on Ijoard the Iphhjenhi, and the roof ho gave to Captain Kencbick, which was cut up and used as firewood on board the Colmnhia. . .As to tho land Mr Meares saya he purcliased of Maquinna or any other chief, we cannot say furtlier than wo never heard of any; although wo remained among these people nine months, and could converse with them perfectly well. BcMides this, we have asked Maquinna and other chiefs, since our late arrival, if Captain Meares ever pui'chased any laud in Nootka Sound; they answercil Ao; that Captain Kcndrick was the only man to whom they had ever sold any land.' Gniji and Iixjniham^s Letter to Vuculra, li'J^, in Grecnhow's Oi: and CuL, 415-10. I may add that Kentlrick also, according to Haswell, built a small house for temporary use in the autunm of 17S8. ■U^CAXAXISH. 197 1 gifts :Mr tod in hands d l)est 1 witli by no t'uturo f the liavc satio- Ic lj(!f<>ra if artiii- [k ))uiM- |igrali:ini ar 17SS, led with I's, prior Ihu tiidk |, which liUKl -Ml- Inot say tho.iu iBi'si.Ius l-ival, if |lSW(,'lVcl Jw's Or. Ill, built faction noted l)y tho Americans. At any rate, they .stole a grindstone, were not admitted within the en- closure of the house, and linally retired to another hay to fish, returning, however, to steal tho shi[)'s pinnace, which was broken up for the nails. Maijuinna still protested his iidclity; and it was just before tlie vessel's departure that the final ownership of the house was promised him, as before related. On June 11th, leaving a force at Xootka to ■\vorh on the schooner, ]Mearcs sailed for the south, and sjxMit two weeks in Clayoquot Sound, which lie named Port (\)X, being lavishly entertained by Wicananish, tho el lief of that region. A valuable lot of otter- skins AVas secured, and dissensions between the chiefs were liealud by a treaty which gave to Wicananish, for siile to Mcares, all furs then in possession of the Indians, but allowed Hanna and Detootcho the rig) it to sell such skins as should bo taken later by their ])cople. The next day after leaving Port Cox, Sun- da v, June 2i)th, the navij^ator sighted a j>reat inlet in latitude 48" 39', reaching its southern shore and re- ceiving a visit from the chief Tatootche. The inlet was named for its "oritdnal discoverer, Juan de Puca,"' and has retained the name. ]\Ieares coolly assumes the honor of rediscovering this strait, knowing of no oilier navigator "said to have been this way" except ( 'ook and Maurelle, and i' Barclay's discovcrv, of wliich he was perfectly aware.^^ The boat was sent out to explore the island which still bears the name of Tatoucho. A near view was had of Classet village on a high steep rock; and there were also seen, on -luly 2d, Capo Plattery, (^>ucenhithc river and island, (jUceuuitett village, Saddle Hill, and Destruclioa bland. On the 4tli they named Mount Olympus, in latitude 47^ 10'; and next day Shoalwater Pay, with the capes Low Point and Shoalwa.ter at its entrance. '" ITo several times speaks of Barclay's voyage in his narrative; and in Jiii being <|iiite intelli- gible, and in what he called Jlostility ]>ay, perhap^^ False Nitinat, was attacked by the savages, who wounded him and several of his men, l)ut were re[)ulsed after a hard ii:eo- graj)hically somewhat vague to us, it presented no dilHculties whatever to the captain, who coolly says: 1'he boat " had sailed near thirty leagues u\) the strait, and at that distance from the sea it was about lifteen leagues broad, with a clear horizon stretching to the east for 15 leagues niore.^ — -Such an extraordinary circumstance idled us viith strauLje conjectures as to the extremity of this strait, which we concluded, at all events, could not be at any great distance from ] ludson's Jiay," He also writes : '' We took ])ossession of the straits of John de Fuca, in the name of the King of J>ritain," though Dufiin mentions no such act; and in his memorial of later date he claims to have ol)tLiined from Wicananish on this tri[) "the promise of a free and exclusive trade with the natives of the district, and also his permission to build any store- houses, or other edifices, which he might judge neces- sary; that he also accjuired the same privilege of exclusi\e trade from Tatootcho, the chief of the country bordering on the straits of John de Fuca, and purchased I'rom him a tract of land within the ■"' Duiiiu's Jnnrtiul i.s givon in !Mc:iros' appendix, as also his instructions. 'i"lu' followiu^' are tlic points licaiin;,' ou go(i;,'nipliy : July l.'Uli, small sandy liay; I4l1i, village of Attali on sandy l)ay; course K. and j;. N. E. aloni^ shore; Xittee Natt |NitiuatJ village ; Point I'hitrancu at noon ))ore i;. ))y s. 4 leagues, 'rutoMtehc Tiiland, s. E. ])y K. 10 leagues; ir)th, small sandy hay ; Xittee Natt, rivulet and har with surf; I'oint Kntianee hore s. l)y e. [supposahly IJonilla riiiiit|; Kith, sandy cove and village; passed I'ciint lluti'anee ; steered east into t lie strait; at noon entered a deep hay, a good harhor for vessels of U)0 or l/iO tons I Hostility IJay, or False Xitinat?]; 17th, light with Indians; 'tmiiod eut of the hay' and 'stood over to the other shore' [of the hay or s' ; i .r i; jilaet' called I'ort llawkeshury, 'J'atootche bearing s. \v. [which ii; ■■ ■ s San .hian, hut how did he get tlure?! ; ISih, 'wind s. s. w. ; at 4 I'.M. tackeil oil' tiio soucli shore four miles, and stood over to th(^ north shove of the stiaits; at 7 tacked again oil' sbore half a mile; at sunset the entrance of I'ort Ihiwkeshury n. by E. ; Tatootchc Island, s. ; I'oint Entrance, w. s. w., oir the latter (•( leagues, and from the former 3 leagues; sailed .v. w. hy w.,' and )•< turned to ship. Mearcs says the return was on the 2Uth. See, Meai-ea' map later. 200 EXPLORATION OF THE NORTHWEST COAST. I said strait, wliidi one of your Mcmoriiilist's officers took ])ossessi()ii of in the Kiiii4'.s naiiu', calliiiu;' tlio same Tatootcho." Avoidinj^ a harsher term, we ma}' call these statements <;;ross exai^u'eratioiis. Jietui-nin!"" to Xookta on Julv L'dth, it Mas learned that all had heen I'easonahly prosperous duriiiL;' the Fvl iiv s absence; but when she was ready to sail again for Port Cox a mutiny occurred to })revent embark- ini:;. The nmtineers, headed 1)V the l)oatswain, who had been disyraced for [)revious insubordination, were bai'ely [)revented from seizing the vessel; but all sub- mitted and returned to duty except eight, who, rather than submit to be ironed, having their choice, were turned on shore among the ^;avages, who for a whik! r.;at!e slaves of them. On August 8th ^leares sailed I'or l^)rt Cox, and just outside the harbor met again the J^riiiccs.'i Jidj/if/, Captain IJuncan, now nearly leadv to leave the coast. After a successful vovage he returned on the L'4th to I\ootka, where, on the L'7th, Ca[)tain J)ouglas arrived in the Ipliiijcnla from tile northern coast. Coming i'rom the Alaskan waters, it was on Angus L'Oth that JJouglas I'ound himself in Dixon, or, as he chose to rename it, JJouglas entrance; and thence he j)roceeded through the strait between Queen Char- lotte Islands anil the main, as Duncan had done belbre him, though ISIeares has the assurance to claim the honor for his associate.'*^ The only other namo ap- plied, so lar as the journal shows, was that of Point J lose; but Douglas returned through the strait the next year, as we shall see. Meares' map, which I I'e- })r()duce here, shows the route and names given for both tri[)s, and also the supposed ti'ack of the Ameri- can sloop round another great islantl hi 1789, of which 1 shall speak elsewhere.*'*' ■"Douglas' Journal of this part of liis voyage is found in Meares' Voij., 3'29 ft .se(]. Tor Meares' remarks sec /(/., Ixiii.-v. ami ■_*! 1-12. lie knew per- fectly well tliat Diiucau hail prece(le- oint the I'C- lor leri- licli \Voy., I' per- kucen bwiie 202 EXPLORATION OF THE XORTHWEST COAST. Tlie two vessels being now reunited, every effort was made to fit die Felice fur lier trip to China with the vahiable citrgo of furs tiiat had been collected. The exiled mutineers were received back for duty, except the boatswain, who was conlined in the houst\ and soon escaped. Work on the new and old vessels progressed ra])idh'. On September I7tli the Ladu WasJiiurjton, Cnidaiu (^Iray, made her appearance, as already related, in time to witness, on the IDtli or 20th, the launch of the new schooner, which was named the Xorth West America, the first vessel ever built on the coast. The launching was an event of much interest to English and American spectators, as well as to the Chinese builders, and one of great wonder to the natives. It 's made the subject of an engraving in ;Meares' book." A few days later the Felice, taking on board the Jphigenia's furs," and a lot of spars for the China market, sailed from Nootka. She touched at the Sandwich Islands, and early in December anchoretl at jNIacao. The Iphif/enia remained about a month at Nooilca after the Felice's departure, the time being spent in j)reparing the North ]Vest America for a trip to the Sandwich Islands, Avhere the two vessels were to winter. The (Jobunhia arrived on September 22d or 23d, the day after Meaics' departure, and the Ameri- cans, eager to get rid of their rivals in trade, gladly aided in the preparations for departure. The house on shoi'i!, if we may credit Gray and Ingraham, \vas demolislied, i)art of the material being put on board jind ("!uis(^ in 17S(). And in Mojircs' iiistruotions to DoughiH for tlio second trip tliroii;;!! tlu^ striiit. in .•qijicndix, wc luad: ' Vou iiav(! tli'^ credit of di.s- covring the tifcat Island, tin; iiortii-wcst si iiel I for the spring trade. On March IGth the LaJi/Was/t- iiKjtoii sailed for ('layojiuot, where she arrived next dav, and where she lay j'or ten days, the men eni>age(l Hi trading, hunting, and making a survey of what they called Hancock Harbor. *' I really think," writes Haswell, "there is a great inland communicatiou by (204) MOVEMENTS OF VESSELS, 205 rivers. The whole land %vc could sec I have reason to suppose to be islands."^ Then they sailed down the c(mst, noting Company Bay, or Barclay Sound, ])assing Nitinat village and Patchenat, or Poverty Cove, and entering wliat tliev were sure was the strait of Fuca, probably to about the same point reached by !Meares' boat, where on April 1st they "saw the sun rise clear from the horizon up the straits."^ It is evident that Meares had told them notliing of his own or of Barclay's discoveries. Noting Tato(^c]io Island, or Chandee, they were tossed by the winds below Cape Flattery for several days, and returned to Clayoquot on the l)th, joining Wicananish ill a successful whale-hunt. Subsequently Captain (:lray repeated his southern trip, exploring Cechasht Cove and Company Bay by means of his boat, and returning on A])ril 2*2d to Nootka, where he found Captain Douglas and the IpliiijCHki. The American vissels were anchored seven miles up the sound, at ]\lawinah, Moweena, or Kendiick Cove; and the ofli- cers made some explorations in the inland channels. Kcturning to Friendly Cove ready for sea. Captain (hay learned that the iVor/A WcsiAhicr'wii had ii,Lx'ived jind departed for northern wati rs. Leaving the sound on tile 3d of ]May, he met the Frincfsa, connnanded hy iMartinez. Gray was bound north, but for a week the winds prevented his <>'ettin^' bc'vond Ifoiie l^.n ; ' and before his departure on tlie 10th he sighU'd another vessel under S})anish colors, the San Cdrlo.^. This tri[) of tlie Lmhi Was/u'nrjton to the north is not so flearlv described bv Haswell as would l)e desirable, it lienig in-possible lo iix all tlie positions. They passed, ' //ii.s'i/v //"s I'm/., ^rS., 4I{ c't soq. Tlic author introduces quite a long (l('sr"i|itii)n >'S; and also that (irays journal mentions 'the lai'j;e river, called ))y the Inclians TaiiMitche, llowing into tiio eastern part of this [FucaJ sea, in latitude 4 J degrees;' that is, Frasi'r Itiver. ■' The wcsteniniost iulet of the Lay he says was called Chieklcsset. 2oa THE MOOTKA CONTROVERSY. however, between the continent and the groat island, and penetrated the maze of iskinds and channels beyond as far as oa^ 4.']'.* To Queen Charlotte, Gray o'ave the name of Washinjj^ton, apparently not aware that any other navigator had discovx'rcd its separation IVom the niainlniid. " Had we not met with the mis- fortune of running ashore in the storm our discov'eries would have been verv intt.'restinof. As it was, wo dis- covered that the straits of Admiral do Font actually exist. As far north as we went is a vast chain of islands, and the entrances between them may be taki-ri i'or guH's and straits; but when explored large rivers and lakes may be found. This coast can never be thoroughly surveyed until it is done at some national expense, whose commanders are interested by com- merce. "" Commercially the trip was successful, large numbers of skins being obtained, especially on the western side of Queen C/harlotte Isles, on the ivturn. jVt one place the unsophisticated savages gave two *]M;iy .111 to 1511), from Hope Bay pfisscd between C.ipe Ingrahnin and a pi'oiipof isl:inilH; iiovoss to opposite i^liuve fourteen leagues ; a large liay with a tiangerous reef on west ; fartlier west, eoast craggy, with low detached island^; latitude 52' ;i7' |ui) datej ; good open liay in ij'J" aU', with a renia'kablo liilge nf barren niountainn on x. shore ; Sivw land s. w. by s., far away. May Kitli, land {);) niilcs in extent and six miles from coast, x. N. i;. to continent; waitcil iMitil lUtli for Indians who promised fui's; this >ay fprobaldy that in 52' i')'.i\ iir.nied ])erl)y Sound, for oneof the owners. May '21st, 'Alargc inlet trending to the westward, 2)rol)idjly the entrance of Admiral do Font's Strait.s;' giiki juid c(ini]ilicated movements; the great island estimated to extend 170 nnles, fi'oni 52'' to 5-1' ;i()'. M:!y 22d, x. w. and w., 'edging into the continent;' lati- tude r>y ',H)'. May '24t!i, a terrililo g;de, which so strained the sloo]> that it vas rcsolveil to return to Xootka; place named Distress Cove, in 55'. M;iy '25tli and 27lh, ne:u- Distress Cove, generally in 55" 10'. May'JSth, latitude at IKHUX ,').y 4.")'; a cjiain of islands, which eould not bo explored; returned to \\'asliingtiin Island; Ciista, a villigo on a sandy bay [not far from ])ixon"s Cloak I'ayl under chief Cuneali; estimated latituile 54^ 15'; entrance of the titrait I Di\on l]nti'ance| in .">4' "20'; passed soutii in foggy weather. i ':\ S'. dune 10th, hititmhi o.T :W. June 11th, in an inlet and goi)d iinrlior, in 52 12', named ISiirrell Sound, for one. of tiu^ owners; eu 8h(i!'e fo'.uid a very curious fortilied roik, called Touts, with llat to]> and per- pendicular sides 40 I'lct hig!i. 'J'liene<' [no more dates givenj to the i.-Iauils oil' Cape Ingiahaiii; and to Xootka. ''Duncan and ])oug]as had preceded Cr.iy in the fitraits, as we have seen, ilreenhow, Or. ((ml <'ul., 100, says: ' (Jray explored the vliole east coast of (,hleei\ Ciiarlotte's Island, which Innl never Ijcfore been visited by tlie people of any civilizeil nation, though Duncan. .. had ... sailed through the pc.t, sepaniting it from the main land;' and then claims tliat Doughis did ii'it ]irccede (Jray. All this is wrong, to say nothing of tlie fact tliat (iray's exploration was of the main rather than the islunil ouast. VOYAGE OF THE COLUMBIA. 207 luiiulrod sea-f)ttor skins, worth about eicrlit thousand doll; \Y. for an ( dd 11 -on hi sol. C'a[)tain (h-ay arrived at Nootka shortly after Juno 1 4th, and as ho sailed up the sound to rcioin Kendrick at ]\Iawinali, he saw the two Spanish vessels at anchor, with the Princess lloijal, Captain Hudson, and noted tluit Martinez had fortiiied Hog Island near Friendly Cove. Hero, after relating brielly wliat had occurred at Xootka during the absence of the Ladtj Washinr/ton, Haswell's diary comes to an end. ]]efiJiiiiiitoi) loft Xootkii first, nml after a poutlicrn trip Tlict till," (')/l-9 and tn,!)!'."!; roc also map in Iireccdiiiy cliiiptor, ji. 'JOl. Tlie nainfs iqipliL'd (i!i thi-i trip, aocordin-; t) tlio JoiiriKi/, were ii.i idllows: lAn-t I'itt, J>;u,'L'Icngh Sound, C';ipc J'^rinor, ('iijii; Murray. Pctrii? luland. ^[oun; St liazaro. ]Iain»'.-i Cove, ('m;io Irving, Mclntyro r>ay, in ."i.S' 'I'A', I'ox Clianni'l, Tataneo viila;^^, Jind IVal llail)i)r. ".1/i'()vn' I'o;/., fciMt'H and documents in appendix. Toli.ir, fiiformo, snys, lio«cv('r, tliat she was sent under Narvaez to explore the strait of I'uca, C(H)lid^(' goii ;^ as interpreter; uud tiiia may be coulinned by Navarreto, Viaijvs Aink., 114. FORT riTT. 211 India Company. It was tlic intention now to es- tablish a permanent tni(linj^-[)ost or factory on tlie coast, with suitable buiklinLrs for the occupation of the company. Colnett was authorized to select the most convenient site for such an establishment, which was to be named Fort Pitt, and to be under the charge of ^fr ])uffin. Nootka was not mentioned in the in- structions as the site of tlio fort, though it would naturally have been placed there. Nor do v/e find in the instructions as printed any provision like tliat of the })receding year for troubles with vessels of other natio;is.'^ Seventy Chinamen were embarked as set- tlers for the new fort;" and a small vessel of thirty tons was carried to be launched on the American coa^t. The Princess Roijal was the first to reach Nootka, on June 14th, and after a few days of the most iViendly relations with both Spaniards and Americans Captain Hudson sailed for a trading cruise, on July '2d, caiTvinL; the skins taken from the schooner Xorfh West Auiet'ica?^ Next day Colnett came in with the Ai'ijoudut, which on July 4tli was seized by the Span- iards as a prize. Ten days later the Pn'iwess li<>i/ t!ie coast of America, wo look to ,i solid cstaiilishmcnt, and not one tlia*. is to lii-^ a'.iaudoiied at pleasure. We autliori/.o you to li.c it ut the mo-t ecnveniciit t;t itiut what became of them does not ajipear. "In Meares' apiiendi.^c is given Hudson's receipt *'or 'J0,'{ skins from Funter; it is dated July 'Id, Ho claims that there were a dozen skins missiujj. 1 21: THE NOOTKA COXTROVKRSY. Coliiott, Hudson, and their men as prisoners. They sailed, ilio Ai'f/(»i, with reforenees to Vaneouver, Jarvis, Ingrahani, ami to newspaper aeeonnts. ''Xiirurrtte, r«(;/c.'< A/id<\, (il M; Id., in Sii/H »/ ^^p.r., Viiifi<\ cvi.-viii.; Ji'crill< - riiiih nloH da Xidka, J7S/f; extracts in I'inncro I'nifirnal, xxvi. l,")7-<>9. This report contains (juite a full statement of the fur-trade and operations of Knglish traders, with a description of Nootka and its people; l)ut except iu a few points is not very full on tlie events attending tlio capture of vessels. Tobar returned to San IJlas in conunand of the A njoiuuit. as a prize; and his report WU3 tho first account of the capture that reached Mexico and Euro^Mj. PRIXCESA AND SAN CAKLOS. 21.1 othor ill. .Jarvis, viii.; IIKIIlff, This 10113 iif L:oj)t ill ^■fssclis. 11(1 liU uropc. sians and English on tlio Xorthwest Coast caused Viceroy Flores to resolve upon the oeeuj)ation ot' Nootka hel'ore it sliould he taken possession of hy any foreij^Mi power. For this puipose Martinez and ITaio wei'e sent hack to the north on the l*riiiccs(( and Sua CW'y/o.s sailinsjj from San Bias on Fehruary 17, I7S!). Their instructions were to conciliate the natives, i'or whose conversion friars wore sent; to erect buildings for the colony, and fortifications for its defence, as well as an indication of the Spanish sovereii^nty in that iVL^ion; if Russian or English vessels a})peare(l, to re- ceive them with all courtesy, but with a manifestation of the right of Spain, by virtue of discovery, to this establishment and others that M'ere to be founded; and after tlie foundation to send the San CVir/os on an cxi»loring tour, particularly to the coast between yU^ and 55^. Without touching in California the two vessels reached the latitude of Nootka earlv in ^lav. tlust outside the entrance of the sound Martinez met Oray on the Lcuh/ WasJiuKjtoti, and in a friendly interview made many intjuiries about the vessels within, an- nounced his intention, as Haswell says, of capturing the EnLjlish craft, and gave a stranjjfe account of his own ex})edition.^'^ It was on ^lay Gth that the Princes^. entered the harbor antl .found tlie J/)/ii(/('iu'(f under Portuguese colors, anxiously awaiting her consoi-t and in considerable distress, as Ca})tain JJouglas stated. Martinez treated Douglas with every courtesy, prom- ised to relieve his distress, and went up the sound to spend a few days "ith Kendrick. During his absence Haro arrived with the S((ii Carlos, on tlie i;Hh; nnd next day on his return he sunnnoned Douglas and ^^/faxiirir.H Vol/., MS., o6-~. Mnrtiiio?; saiil his ves.sel M-itli two others had hi;(.'ii litted out at Cdili/ for discovoiii's ; had touchod on thi; coast of .\\w N|iaiii, and lo.st most of Ids J'airoiii'an suaiiu'ii, supplying tludr |)lai(.s witli iKitnralizL'd natives of California, lie had been to Bering Strait, found nnuii su.iw, and parted with hi.-i consorts in a. gak'. Martinez told a siinilai- story ti' I )oiigi.is a litthi latf'r, and added that lie hail met the Lmlii Wonhuniliii to tim unrtli ward. and had supplied her with things she needed. JJouijlas' Journal, iii Miarcs' Voy., uppeudix. 214 THE NOOTKA CONTROVERSY. f Viana on ])oar(l tlie Princesa and (leni])any, the nomi- nal owners, an»l ivci'iviii;^ Captain Dou;^las' siLjnatnn^ to ;v statement that tlie vesst-l had heen found at Xookta in distress, tiiat her na\ i'^ation had not heen stopped, iind that she had heen supplied with all the stoi'es needed i'or her voyaiL^e. JJoujjjlas says that, notwith- standiuij this dctcument, which he had sij^ned at the entreaty of his men to ohtain release, the vessel had heen j)lundered of everythin;^ of valu(>, ineludiuiij articles for trade and his own [trivate })roj)(rty; an«l that the supplies were I'urnished in very limited (piantity at excnhitant ])rices. There is every rea- son to believe that this was a gross exaL^u^eration, thoUL|;h various articles may have been lost or stolen in the tr^Misfers of carj^o. Ho docs not <-laim that they were })ersonally ill-treated. Gray and In^raham testily that "they were treated with all ima^inahlo kindness, and every attention paid them,'"^' that ])oUL,das and his officers were perfectly satisiicd with the arrangement, and that "the Ij)Jiitr\i Or. anil Cal., 414-1."). -'- 'i;:i liii. k'j'is (Ic cxperinioiit.nr pcrjuioio iil^niin) il jia([Ucl)ot l;i, JJji'jnilii, BUS ()!ioi;ik;t y tiipuliicioii rofrcscarou sus vivcics, do (nu; sc liuUaliaii liieii I'scasiis, salii-'udu lilirulucnle ;i naM;.:ar, SDCdriila.s t-iiii yoiii'iDiiilail tudas tii.i lifuu.-i(lai., i. .Si!)-',lil, tlici'o is iiii'iitiimcd a d:(cuim>iit attaclicil to a letter of l»iMU';;ii y (.'na tlio gipiicl trcatiiK'iit cf liimsc'if aiul fi'llow-iiiioonerrf liy .Mai tiia;:, t > tlic ivs. oration (if vessel anil eai'-o. ;uid to the fiiniisliin;^' of all needed siapiilies. (Iroriiliow si lows that ^'ancouVL'l■ does iiijustico to Gray and la^'ruhiuu in his vei.siuii of thoLi- tcstimouy. ' 21G THE NOOTKA CONTROVERSY. New Spain should clocide the prize to have been law- fuL Still another dcx'Uineiit did Lieutenant ^lartint'Z obtain from the captain, a letter for !Mr Funter. H(j desiretl to })urchase the schooner North West AnK'rira at a ])rice fixed by the American officers. Douglas said that neither he nor Funter had any authority to sell. Martinez insisted on having \l letter for the master of the schooner; and at the last moment Douglas wrote one. Its purport was tliat Funter might act as he thought best in the riiatter; but tliere is some reason to believe that it was represented to ^[artinez as the desired order ft)r sale. Douglas himself says, "The moment I had finished my letter I gave orders to sli[) the hawser, and made sail out of the cove." ^leares says that in writing the letter ne "cautiously avoided any directions to the efilct de- sii'ed, availing himself of Don Martinez's ignorai.ce of the English language." And Martinez a little later claimed to take the schooner by virtue of an agi-ee- ment with Douglas. On June 2il the Ipliitjcnid sailed, bound homeward, as the Spaniards and Americans had been led to believe; but at midnight tacked t > the northward and engaged, as we have seen, in a very successful trade. She did not, however, as was hoped, meet the schooner consort, which it was in- tended to burn after taking off the men and furs. ]\[eanwhile the Spanish <'onnnander had taken for- mal j)ossession of the |)ort, which he called Santa Cruz de Xutka; erected barracks for his men, and formed a battery of six or ten guns on Hog Fsland, command- ing till! entrance to the sound and the an<-horage known as Friendlv Cove;''^* or possihlv thev had six- teen guns in two places. On the arrival oi' the Xnrfl Wist Aiiu'ric(( on June 9th Martinez took possession, ■•''rdliar says the fonniil act of ]h)8!i:si(lerable amount foi- sui)i>lies to the Ij)/u)j('nia were held by Martinez; and that oiHcer therefore jnst.lied himself in holdinn" tlie schooner as se 'Lirity I'oi' the debt, instead of paying' for her, as he had before deemed himself bo ind to do. The Ard, si^htiuL!;' the J^iu'itccss lioifid outside without speakiiii;'. ('aj)taiii Coliiett before elitt'iini;' leai'lied f/olii ^fr Hai'liett and others who came olf in a boat ine condition <»f thinj^s in tile liarboi', and was advise next day relations continued fric'iully: then the Vessel was seized and [)ut under Si)anish colors, otlicersj and men bein^' detained as prisoners. There is nothiiij^ to siij)[)ort the later ihar,iL>e that AEartinez treacher- ously eiitici'd the shij* into the harbor for l!ie purpose oi" seizure; but every reason to believe that he intended to treat tlu^ Aiyoiaiif as he had Just trt^ated her con- sort.-'' The true reason of the seizure comes out clearly -'■ III lii.H jmhlislicd imiTiitivcof a I'ltcr voyagf, Cillicti, Vtn/'nir to the Sfnith 'until' null riiiuiil ' >?//<• Ilarii iiiln /fir /'iirl/ir, LoiiiIdii. I7!'S, 4t(i, jip. j. iii., nml iiiit>' 1)11 |(|>, !((i IdJ, s;iy.s: 'I liiul no nodiiii' ri'fcivoill >mii . Martini/ in my ealiiii. tli.iii lie pffscntcil nil' ii li'ttiT tVoiii Mr llililsiin . . .'I'lic (■iininiuiluc thru iiifiirnicd nu'.that tlii'vi'ssrlsuiiiii riii.-iiM .1 i.tl iinintiiui well' ill ;,'!■( .it liisuvss. troiii tiio lit lit' |pi'()\ isiiins ami otliur ni'ii'-isancs ; ainl ri'^iii .t.'.! liiaiiiK r, to f,' I inti> |M)rt, in I'l k'i- ti> atliiiil liiiii till' in !i \ci V ui','i'iit ii»arv .>.ii|.|>!u'<. [ lu'>it;itr ofHcers of the Co/ttiithin accompanied ^far- tinez on liis first visit to Cohiett;^" and other American otHcei-s were present at subsequent interviews. 'J iiey state that they heard Cohiett inform tlie Sj anisli connnander of liis purpose to take possession, hoist the l^iiglisli flag, erect a fort, and settle a colony at Nootlva. ]\Iartinez re[)lied that he had already taken possession for Spain; and on ])eing [jresscd for a di- rect statement whetlier he would prevent the occupa- tion, declared that he could ]).i'mit notliing moi-e than the erection of a tent for tlie tem[)orary purpose of obtaining wood and water, afLer which he was free to depart." Tliis was just such an interview as would bo natural under the circumstances; and it is not likely that Colnett would have persisted in his pui-- l)ose, tliough in his disa]>pointment he may have used strong lanu^ua^-e. His decision would natuially Iiavo been to leave Nootka and select another site for his trading-post. In the afternoon of July 4th Colnett went on i)oard the I^n'ntrsa to ask permission to rail innnediately. ISIartinez: granted it at first, but on second thought dt^sired to see the Englishman's prners.-" ])oubtless it had occurred to him, or })er- Laps had bei-n suggvsted by his American friends, that Nootlwi WMs not the only available site for a colonv, ami that Colnett s desire to sail so soon was a sus- to sail whenever I pleiisetl.' So ho wont in. Xc\t ii'oriiin,'? lie got re;i'.sel out, Imt sent iii.sti'iid an order to ooine on liiaid, Ste eontiniMtinii in a lat; r note. -'• I Io\. (• ii nanieil in llie d< jmsii ion.< of the iiieiuif the .\'(>r/'i ll'i ■-/ Aii'irira nnd of Williiini (Jridiani, attailied to Mmri ^' ,1/r nuiinl. MrDulihi, Ih': t otiieer , \n his letter.s, hi., tells mh that ( 'olnett and hid vi.ntoiH had un inteivi.u in the enliin at \\lii< li he was not iire.sint. '■'i.r'ii/ mill I iiiirithiiiiiK Liltir. •^ /hijilii's l.ilUrs. The.-^e lettei-s, written iit the time by (' ihiet^'s liist liuiti', are hy far tlie nioMt ivlial'lv- authority on orrn-.n lire i conn'i'U' 1 willi the .seizure. ( 'o'nett"s o\\ n BUiteineat uf lutor jcui's is, un will be bhowu hero- after, iiuwortiiy of belief. COLNETT AND ^lARTINEZ. 210 pici< US circumstance. Colnett wont, liowevor, to liis own vessel and returned with Ins papers, having put on the C()ni[)any's uniform and sword. On readiu'^' tlie instructions, and i)erhaps desirins^ time to liavc; them correctly interpreted, Martinez informed the captain that he could not he permitte . S> sail that day. Then a quarrel ensued hetwcen the conunaiiders, in consequence of which Colnett was put under arrest and his ships were seized as [)rizes. The exact eircuin- stances of tlie cpiarrel are not accurately known, thoiii;'! 1 append some evidence on the subject.^'* From tiie **Dnffin, LcffiTx, writes: 'On which some higli words cnsupil hctwren them, and Captain (.'uhiett insisted on going out inimodiately, which he sai.l lie wouhl do unlesn the commodore tired a shot at liim ; if no, he Wiiiihl thcii haul down his colours, and dehver himself up a prisoner: iuirdly hail he littered tliis, hut he was put under an arrest, and his swonl taken from him, the vessel tieized . . . ; but what is most particular, he desired Captain Ivendrick to loaie;i el eo:nauda:ite de N'oolka apresal'lo iirreglado A la ordenanza, atendiendo ;l la madera do iniiitruccion (pie tniia iV bordo. ' Navarrete, .s>(//V _»/ ,)/..(•., eviii., on t!io aiitliuiily of Martinez states tluit 'Captain Colnett iierasteiitly refused t) sliow Martinez his instructions, using expressions («» inde>',)roii ( and lieitrcl tliat, having exiiausted tl'.' method f of pnichnee hitlicrlo ein|)l lycl, oar (nniaiander resolved to arrest the Hritish captain wi'diin tlie f!'ig,'.U;'M eubin, declaring all the men of the Ar,; m ik/ jji-isoners of war, an 1 t > s^etid the v»' .sel t'l Sail IJlaa at the disposition of the vici'my. Ite.illa-l li ;cdo"s iicc.iu:it, liih.i\iii\ 1_*7 ;■>: 'They eallKi under orders of .lames CoIiicVt t) t.dio ivissessioii of Nootka, to fortify it, and establisli a fact ny fir trade and iijitlcmcat, liriiiviii;,' f,tr tliis piiroose tlu' necessary aids, and •_';( !ian;,'leve i |< "iina'!ie:i | if (hll'eicnt trades. Colnett wished to pro 'd at on'C to tlie f )u;i'iiii'j of tlioso e- had ecd d to t'le London triidili'/ 1 " :ii;iany t'le right of first discovi'ry, if Admiral I'onte had liei :i t'l.' lirst dis- ( oviMir ; liut the commander of .iir exjn ditio;i deaioust^ated to t V Ka >isli eonnnauder his erroneous and iliioiuided designs. I'eraisting in tiieni,("olnett 220 THE NOOTKA CONTROVERSY. testimony and circumstances it clearly appears that on Martinez refusing' to i)crmit his instant (le[)artine, for wliich the Spaniard had tiie best of reasons, Col- nett lost liis temper, used languaj^e that the otlier deemed insultin<;, and in liis anLi'er insisted on liis ri^iit and i)urpose to establish an En;L,dish fort, which action it was Martinez' duty as a S})anish olHcer to })revent by the only means within his power, the seizure of the vessel. That Colnett claimed the rii^iit or expressed the intention (jf hoUUnj^ Nootka, tho 11:^11 Martinez tiirough iuter[)reters may have so understood ! refused to show liis patents ami instructions, explaining himself always with niui'li liiiuj,'litinc's.s; Imt as he tliou^'lit he couM not keep it u]i, he icsolveil to lea\e N'oolka, and net sail. l''or this piii"i)ose he asked the aid of a launi h to raise his aneliors, and hen Martinez, fearing that the Knglisli eaptain miu'ht o(t;il)lisli himself in an tiier |H)rt on the eoast, from which it would he dilii- eult to dislodge him, ag;. !n onlered him to show his pajjers. ( 'olnett eonliiiued liis persistent refusal, aeeompanying it with insulting aetions and expressions, BO that Martinez, his little patience heing exhausted, detjiined the Al•^|ln,,lnt and /'/•iii<'(ss liojiiil, sending Itotli vessels to San JJlas.' Colnett himself, I ■.//., !(S, says: ' I received an order from Don Martinez, to eome on hoanl his ship and hiing with me my papers, 'i'his onler appeareit strange, hut 1 complied Mitii it, and went alioard the /'riiicixa. On my coming into his cahin, ho said he wished to see my papers: on my presenting them to him, he just glaiiceil his eyes ever the'M, and although he did not understand a word of the language in which they were written, declared they were foi'ged, and thi-'.\v them disdainfully on the tahle, sa^ying at the .same time, I should not sail until he jileased. On my making some renumstrances at his breach of faith, and his forgetfuluess of tliat word and hoiuuir which he had pledged to me, Iw arose in ap]iai'ent anger, and went out. 1 now saw, but too late, the duplicity of this Spaniai'cl, and was conversing with the interpreter on the subject, wlicn having my back towards the cabin door, I by chance east my eyes on a look- ing-glas.--, and saw an armed party rushing in lH.Jiiii, like a criminal, rove a halter to the yard-arm, ami ire- queutly ihre-atened me with instant death, by hanging me as a. pirate. This treatnieut, at leiigtli, nearly cost me my life; and threw me into so violent a fever, that I was delirious for several ilays.' Then follows an aecotint of iiis cruel treatment on the May to San IJlas. Evidently his 'deliiiuiu" either beg.in at a very early stage of the (piarrel or permanently atVected his miml. Colnett's version t>f the whole all'air in conversation with \'anci>iiver is also given in the hittir's !'- lish no fort. The loss of their vessel and of prospective profits was very disheartening to the traders; but there is no reason to suppose that the prisoners were in any way ill-treated at Nootka or on the voyage to the south. Colnett, according to his own othcers, became tem])ora- rily insane in consequence of his excitement, requiring ciose watching and even confinenusnt. He thougbt he had l)een condenmed to death, and once nearly lost his life by jumj)ing out of his cai>in window.** It is only bv charitably taking account of his insanity or delirium that we can relieve him of the charge of wiiiid misre}>resentation in a statement nuide in later years and already cited.^' The Princess Roijdl re- turned to Nootka on July 14th, and, belonging to the same c(mq)any and engaged in the same enter})rise, was also ca})tured. Captain Hudson first enteri'd the harbor in his boat, leaving the vessel outside, but was taken, with four men; and tlu-n a force was sent to ■"' Tolmr, liij'onut'. 1(!1, who was in i'lmr;,'i' of Colni'tt, dosorihos liiaattcTiipt at sniciilu, and the givat dillicidty of ri'scuiii;,' liini : ' ll.'il!7\iiiliiiiii' al tiiiL;o do tsta pivsa, y uuii ilsaiido de toda.s la.s iii'ciatU'Hiiics j)or*il)U>s |iara 1.I irHLjiiiirdo t!r Iks Oiiciali'S prisionuros, no jmiK' iMiiicilii- (jue dicho Colnct hc ai'iMJa.-c ;;l a;,'tiii dfsi'sjM'radanicnti! ))oi' una ilo his vuntanas d(! hi ifnnar.-i rou intcnf.o ih' aho|,'iirst', jjiR'.s ohat'ivt'' i|Uo aun saliii'n niamhinih) pioar la.s aniariMs drl liotf, Idic :'i mis niarincios lu oii^'ii'si'n, J- api'uas pudicrun hai'iilo, sino a^aiTiindoh; jior h).s 1 ahvllos, y dcsde intuni'i'M procuru iiHeyurarlo, cnccrraudulu cu un caniai'oto con una cciitimla df vista.' "Iiiillin, in his lottiTs, riN'ordH (Vdnctt'.s insfuiity, and loarncd from a wer- vant tiiiit it was an liift'ilitary malady. This grwitly oll'cndcd Colnett, and ho olitaiiicil ffom Mi^aicH a Icttor, ilatvd .la., .iry I, IT'.U. in which ho contradicts ilic statement which had ap)>t!an'd in Ids Mi iiiDi-iul that tliufc Wiw iusuuity iii !n.i family. This kttur is publiahcd iu (,W/ie«'(f Voy., 10"2. 222 THE NOOTKA COMROVERSY. bring in the sloop. The Aiyonavt was sent immedi- ately, and the sloop a little later, as a prize to San Bias, under the oonnnand of Tohar. Of the voyage \ve know nothing beyond Colnett's doubtless exaLTijer- ated (•oni[)laints of inhuman treatment. At San ]^las, Colnett admits the prisoners were treated better, though they had been i)hmdered of all they had. 1)V encouragement liuil their detention ■would be brief, they were induced to repair the shi[), which was then eni}»loyed by the Spaniards in coast voyages and nearlv ruined, ^ileanwhile the men, after several had died of fever and one committed suicide,'"'^ were sent to Tuple and well treated, especially after tlie arrival of L'odega y C-uadra. Colnett went to Mexico, and was nuich j)leased with his treatment at the hands of Viceroy Kevilla-(j!igedo, who finally gave an order for the restoration of his vessel. On returning to San Bias the tained a great numl)or of skins on his return to Xootka." Viceroy Kevilhi-Cigedo confirms this with some additional details in his re- port of 179;5.''* '-'According to TdIkiv, fii/nrim', IGS, he cut liia throiit with a razor in his rage fit tiinlin i liiiiisvlf ii pristom-r. •'^'f V*/„w/".'* Ik//., !»i)-HK). ^'CiuKlra, ill \'inin,iu;r's Voi/., i. .ISS; Ih'r'lht-ahinln, Infnrmc, 127-0. in'2. Tho viceroy say.s: N'ioemy Klores urdercil ' that i\w two vessels shouhl he un- loaded ill the presence uud with iittcrventioii uf their cuptuins, uud that they OPIXION OF THE VICEROY. The viceroy bcliuved tluit ^lartincz' acts were Icfifallv iustilicd bvtho cireumstancos and l)vliis instruc- tioiis, as well as l)y various royal orders, l)iit thoiiLjht that officer had acted somewhat hastily in hiinjj^ing about a controversy in which it would be difficult to prove the exact truth, and which must cause consider- able ex[)ense to the treasury. He permittetl (,'olnett and Hudson to visit ]\Iexico and to [)n'sent their complaints; and though he reu^arded those complaints as tor the most part unfounded, he j^ave orders to be!4'in legal proceedings against Martinez. The action was soon dismissed, however, because the com))lain- ants preferi'ed to be released at once rather than await the issue of what promised to be a long trial. The alleged reason of their release and that of their vessels was the friendly relations (existing between tho two nations, and the probability that the traders had acted in ifjfuorance of Spanish rin'hts. It has been generally su[)posed from later di[)l;)niatic coirespond- ence that the viceroy in restoi'ing the vessels ai^ted on his own jud-ment; l)ut it a])[>ears iVom his own statement that he acted prob;ibly in accordance with orders from Spain, dated January "ifJ, 17i)0,'""' Of Martinc/c' operations at Xootka after tlie de- ])artiiro of his pri;:(-'S we have noihing in addition to the i'ollowing from Navarrete :''" "This (piestion being bIi()u!(1 si'.^i tlu> foi'iMiil iiivciitorios of everything, giviii-^ tliem ss. and daniaTc sliniild l)o sulil ist fair priix's, tho ri:>t 1)^111 ,' (U'i)(i;-itcil ii'para'iLly anil mimuiIv in tin: n yi'.l .• tiii-iii.jn k i. Ho al.;.) ili.:p<):;;'i| that tin: mi'iW anil sloop liciii;,' unlo.'iilcil : houM lie ;;ivi'ii tho ni'i'i.'s.^;uy ri'pairs, an c'-!l.i:nato if I'ust liiin',' fornit'il in ailv:i:n'v with fcrtilinl Ui'connts, a 1 liuin;,' iloiio v.i.h tin- knowlcilyc ami ciinML'ut of tin' .-•li'l lln'rlish captain. I'inally ho iinli.': fl V'ry parti"iilar!y that tlu- lattei- ami thiir news BJiiinlil lio L'ft iliili.scrcct lilicrty, :-!ionlil he giwn [joml tr''atuiiiiL ami loiljin^.-i, and that to tach ono ; lionld ln' ;^ivi ii th'' |iay i 'iriisponiUni; to iiis [iii.--itiuu uccnrilin;,' to tho rcynlation then in force at San llla.i.' '■^■' lii i''ln- 'I'V, sent a i-econd /I'/nf'i on the Schooner (.lirl niilli to explore, and tho strait w;is foinid '1\ miles wide, in 4S :il»'. It is jiossihle. lint nidikely, that Martinez, had heard nothim^ of the strait from Americans or l';n;i;lish. 'I'he nchooner w;;s the captured Xurfh IIVsV Anil rira, and tho trip may huvc been that nader Xarvae/. and (,'oolidge, already referred to. m THE NOOTKA CONTROVERSY. ! disposod of, ^lartincz caused to bo explored the rciijion about tlio port of Santa (Jruz, inteiidin*^ to extend his surve}' aloii!^ the coast; but believiuLjf tliis to l)e lisky with tlie Sxn CVti'/os, on account of her j^n-at (b-au^ht, lie ])roposed to build a schooner sixty feet long. Then b\' the frigate ^■irtoizaz'i^'^ ho received an order to re- tui'n to tlio department of San l^las. Before doing HO his second jtilofo ex])lored in a boat the western channel, and through it reached the bay of Buena Ksperanza,^" of which he took ])ossession in the namo of his majesty. Martinez also tooV the artillery from the fort; j)iled up the timber prepared fn- the con- struction of the house; delivered the small houses already built to Maquinna,"" chief of the district; and on Octolun' .'^st sailed M'ith the frigate and the new schooner,''" anch(jring at San Bias on ])ecember (Jth." It has already been noticed that throughout tin's whole affair relations between the Spaniards and Amei'icans were so i'riendly as to suggest a secret understanding. There was not the slightest interier- ence with the C(>/>imhia or L:z" ollicers in .FniK!. ^" Nothing; is said of the Saii C'lir'oi and Arniiznzii, hut it does not appear that any vt>ssel.-i were left. " l{eviIla-< livedo, /ii/nniie, l'J7, says: 'Martinez reconocio los pnsaportes de los hiiipies aineiieanos, y no Imllando motivos justos (pie le ol>li;,'aKen a (li'tenrrlos, riMpiiriii ;'i sus eiipitanes iiara ((Ue no volvii'c tlio soizuro of the Jj)/iH/('iii(i, as I liavi' said, caused Dou,i,das to susju'ct very naturally that the Anieric-ans had instigated tlie act, though Captain Kendrick denied it. Subse- quently a close intimacy c(jntiiuied; interviews were fi re(|Uen t; Ai nierican officers weri' coinpainons an( I M itnesses lor the Spaniards in all theii- tr.msactions with the JMiglish; ^Ir Coolidge took chaige of one of the })i'izes for a t::'ading cruise, presuniahly on joint account. ('a[)tain (Jlray willingly carried the ca})tivo nit-'U and stores to China; and the Americans became later most friendly witnesses in defi-nce of ^lartim-z' acts. It by no means follows, however, tliat the Americans toc^k any dishonorable advantage of the (juarrel. Their own interests and duty to their owners re(|uired them to get rid of I'ival traders and to secui'e S[>anish protection for their own enterprise; legiilly, tlie Spaniards wei'o j>n'iiia j'' in the )ight, and their o[)ponents in the wrong; and I know of no reason why imder the circumstances svmpathv should have been contrary to interest. Individually, and in the disposition of pro})erty, thei-e may have been instances of dishonorabhi action on the j)art of both Americans and Spaniards; but the testimony is not sufficient for a conclusion on that point. Having' thus narrated in full occurroncoa at Nootka in ITSI), it is well, before considering the international iis, (lisent-ils, la foiicniTi'iu'e »lu ri)rtuf.'iii.s ; sa iinlHtc lo NUivii: i[uaiit aiix Haiiiiioiis l)()stoiiiL'us, k's IvsjiayiKjls.criiign-iit'iit (^()!i'l•ll^;l.■^ l( s /■.'/iils-('n!s y ila iiu jmiivoiciit pa.s ouIjUlt (jiic cia Ktats Koiit liicii voisiiis 'li'^ iiilif.4 !'i)ss('ssi()iis lie la ('ouniiiin; iVK'^jftiiiue dans VAniirr/'it' i\\\ Xar'l.' J''' iifii II, in Miifi-hitiiil, l'(iii.,i. clxx i., witli ivfcruuce io Dulrijinidi', Ike Siiuiilah M(.iuui-ial i. EnLjhuul liad no shadow of a riij;ht to make ohjeotions." In sei/inj^ the I^thiaity, and took fonnal certificates to that effect. Latei- the AiyoiKtHf and Princess Jlo)/al arrived and were kindly received by the commander of a S[)anish ])oit. In not ])ermitting Colnett to establish his colony at Xootka, ^lartinez mu .t be justified even from an lOnglish point of view; and he had a peri'ect i-ight to seize the vessels if Colnett persisted in his puri)ose." The vessels were actually seized because Colnett in- sisted, with violent and insulting language as was alleged, on carrying out his instructions to found an English post eitlier at Nootka or elsewhere on the coast. If it was elsewhere, as I have no doubt it wa-^, though other writers have not taken tliat view of it, then Martinez still did his duty as a Spanish officer. To have permitted the erection of an English fort above or below Nootka would have ^-Mcaros in 17S8 had, with chief Maqninna's permission, built a honso (m shore for temporary purposes, wliicii was toni down on his anish Califor- nian dominion south of Prince William Sound; and ■"I cannot agree w-ith Mr Orcenliow, Or. fiml dil., lt)8, to wlioin. as to most writers, the real irssue, the eMtiihli.-^liiiiciit of an Kiiglisli post nc;ir N'ocjtka, st'i'iiis not to have occurred at all, wlieii lic^ says: 'The seizure of the . I /,'/"- Kdiit, the imprisonment of her other ollieers ami crew, and the sixiliatitm of her cargo, cannot, however, he dcftiided on thosi! (the violent l:iiigiiii;^e of <'iil!iett| or on any grounds allorded hy the evideni'c of .■my of the parties; for .\hirtine/ had no reason to apprehend an attack from the .1 /•'/())('(»/, and Vm had heen specially instructed l>y his iiinuediati' supcrioi-. the viceroy of Mexico, to suspend with regard to British vess»'ls on t\w north-west coasts tin' <\ei;u- tion of the general orders to Spanish comnMuidants, foi tlm i-ei/ure of toreiLTU M'ssels entering the ports of the American doniinions. Still less cNiusahlo vas the conduct of ^lartinez toward the sloop /'riiirrsa Itoijftl on her Mconil arrival.' This is all true, certainly, in the sense that Martinez had no right to Kci/.e the vessels merely liueuuse they entered a Spanish jKjrt or because their captain was iusolcut; but that was by no means uis I'casuu. I 2-28 THK XOOTKA CONTIIOVEIISY. ilit' Ihissinii }j^i)Vi'i-i>iii('iit rrj)li(.'(l tliut ordrrs an'aiiist 'd, (Icsiriiin the >SLU siifli ciici'DacIiim-iits had bri-ii Spaiiisli kiii;^- <(> put a stop ti) any siicli cstal)li.->li- iiu'iits that iiHL;"lit Iiavc hocii i'ouiidrd in his pos- M'ssioiis.^'' On rt!<'i'ipt (»r tlu; nc!\vs iVoiii Xoolka, S )aiii, a t'tlT 1 lavin!^' appai't'iitly si>ii it Old crs 111 .Jamiaiy fur thr ivlrasc of tlio cajitiiivil vessels, rcjxn'tcd the atlair to the En_i;lis]i <;<)Vennneiit on Fehniary 10, 17'.)0, tlirou<4li lier amhassadors in Loiulon, ut tlio same time asking- that the men who had [)lanned the expeditions sliould !•«' jtunished, in ordi-r to deter ' i-estored the vessels, the king was willing to look upon the all'air as coiicluded without '"'Tliisia the Spanish voi-sioii in corrosjunKlenco to l.e noticed presontly. It i-i nut iirolKihk'. howt'ver, t!iut Itiis^iii cuutinittod heruuif to uccupt tho pi'o- po^icJ boimdiiiy of I'liucf \V'jiliaiii. TRK MR ARES MOIOniAL. 229 onterinj:^ upon discussions or clisputos witli n friendly I would \)c coiitcnt with jui oi'dor that )0\VC1* un< Iritish suhjorts should iu futuro ivspcct Spanish [ lights on the coast in (lucstion. Ihit J'jiuland \va.^ by no means ready to issue such an oi'di'r or to rcLjard the ailair as concluded. Her answer was dated May r)th, and was a renewal of her remonstrances a^i^ainst the act of violence, juid of hi-r nliisal to consider the (jUestion of ri^'ht until satisfaction should he j;i\en: hut to it was joined the declaration that the govern- ment "cannot at ])resent accede to the pretensions of absolute sovereignty, commerce, and navinatio)!, which appeared to he the p'.incipal object of the memorials of till' ambassador;" and that the hin;^ would protei t his .'Uibjects in the riL;ht of continuing their iislierirs i:i the l^iciiic. ^leanwhile prt'parations for war wei'e hastened in l']iigland, and on ^Fay Kith a formal de- mand was pi-esented j'or the restitution of vessels and other property at Xootka, indemiiiiication for losses susu'iined bv ICu'dish subjects, ;ind an acknowledu- ment of tin ir riu'lit to free navi'j'ation, trade, and lishery, and to the j)ossession of sucli establishments it be fornu'd, with consent of the natives, \n as miTi jilaces not previously occujtied l>y other .Luroj)eaii nations. A re(|Uest was also made for a suspeii; ioii of armament, tii whicli the Sj)aiiish court amiouuced its V. illiiif^ness to accede, but only on princi[>les of reciprocity.*" Cnptaiu ^Jenros reaclu'd Tiondon from China at tills juncture, readv of course to furnish anv evidence tluit mi'^fht be re(juired of his wrongs at the hands of the Spaniards. His memorial was dated A[)ril l]()\\\, and was j^roseiitod to the house of commons on ^lay l:)th. I have already had occasion to refer to this document, which was, like most others of its class iu all countries and times, full of misrepresentations and *"V[i to this point till' onrro'^jMtiiiloiu'o is not, so far as T know, extant iu its o'i;inal form, but is ouly Unuwii from citations and rcfi'ivuci's iu later documcuta. 230 THE XOOTKA COXTROVERSY. exaijf'r'orations, \n wliicli ovorvtliinj^ is clainied in tlio liopo that sonu'tliiujjf may l)e olitaincd; l)iit it con- tained anii»le material for the national usi; that it mus intended to serve. His claim for 'actual and )>rol»- al)le losses' was $05^,4:?/] and more/^ On May 'JJth (JreoriDje III. made tlu; whole aifair kn<)\vn in outline to jtarliamejit, it havinuf been hitherto kept a .secret, and next day was duly thanked for his messaij^c hy the lords .spiritual and temporal, who offei'ed the most zealous and eifective support lor his majesty's warlike measures.^"* Mr Alleyne Fitzherbert was sent as am- bassaay a!iy loss(>s; and she would make' no claim to territory that did not justly beloni;' to her; but it was her ri<''ht to claim tiiat the nature of the satis- faclion, the amount (»{' the losses, and pai'ticulaily llie justice' of her teiritoiial claims, on the invalidity of v.hich alone depended tlieoH'ence complained '>f,slioiil I tlrst be setth'd by arbitration or otherwise, Jler posi- tion was altou'et liel' a just one 1 > if It was hunnlial 111'. to Spanish pride that the n.vtion was foi.-ed in her *'' Mirirrs' Mtninrinl . . .mi Cn/itiirr of n iixrln of .Voo^/.vf, 7',"'", \v;r) ]> 'ili-In'il \n l.oiul^ II, Hi'|iiiiiitrly, ill iliifc cilitidiis of I7II0 iiiul I^'^IO, Iwhidus l«iiij; lUtlU'llC 1 to .1/. (,;•., -i' I'd//. ^"i !ri'iiil>iiw , /' /,*'"'. Tlii.s tltlr I f'iv(! to 11 fillrction (if ilin'iiiiiciit^ |iiilili.slici| in liu" Aiiniinl /,'< i/iKlir, x' :,ii. ■,';,'». '{0(1, M'lfit of tliiiii nil' ic|iii.itti| ill (I'lii iilniir's (h'.niul <'(il.,4\h .'!'•. 'i'lu' ilinimiciits ari' ii>< fMllow*: Miyjiili, kin;,''M iik'ssjij^o »o imi'li.iJiHlit ; May 'Jdtli. iHJilrcKM of tiic lords ill n ply ; |M,iy l,'Uli|, Niilistiiiii'i of Minrii' Minm rill: .liiiM' nil, ili't i.'iiiilioii of kill;,' of Si 1,1 ill to;ill (In? Ki'ropi'iiii coiiits; ,liiii" IHtli. I'loiiija li!iiiic"i. iiiiliiorial to I'it/in ilifit ; |,lr.iii' Mi|, I'lt/lnlltfi !'.< iiimv.it; .liiiic IStli, l''lo -ida niain'a'.s it'ply; .Inly 'JJlli, dfrlar.i.tioii and < .Mii;r;-d('<'!ai;itiiiii of tlic ,)artir-; .liiiif liiiii, litter of < 'oiiiit I'ciii.iii N'lim/ to M. Moiitiiioriii, m'crrtai y of I'l'iiiU'c ; |.\iit;iHt (itli or •Jl)t!i|. iU'ctcc "\ l.ati'.n.d as.Mciiilily of l''raiiiv ; (K'toliiT 'JS(!i, Nootka loiiviiitioii ; '. .vcintur 'JUii.addiv.s.i of lord mayor I'tal. of Luiuloii tu kiii^j on the Nuotkiu jiim'JUioU. mem IS RiG^T. 231 weakness tt) appeal in humility to justice instead «»f li;iU''litilv assei'tiniT lier iiower. CVulos J\'. e\- plained jiis position, his ri;^hts, and especially his un- willinL!,'iiess to break the peace, in a declaration {<> the Eiiroj)t'an courts dated Juno 4th; he continueil the preparations hejjfun lor war, and on June Klt'i called n[)oii Fiance for the aid to which, under the laniily compact, Spain was ei ititled lui'jland.ctn the other hand, readv tor war and con- hdeiit that her rival must yield, maintained the atti- tude assumed at first; demanded satisi'action i"<»r an oulra'^'e on tlu; Jiritish lla^'; i-eiti-jd to discuss the (lUcstion whether or not any outraLfo had heen com- niittel; claimed the ri^ht of her suhjects to tiade or settle on the Xorthwest (>N)ast; and declined to admit any investii^Mtion, discussion, or aihitrati >n of S|i:ini>li ri;;hts. Of course there was no t'lement of jnsiicc or rii^ht in t!i(! i>osition a.-sumed: l)ut a i»owerful nation in tiiose times needed n!i i\\r. iiiterv'sts of oth 'V nations in a free fur-trade, and showing;' liie ^veaUu-ss of a mei'e discoverer's claim to e\( lusive possession of tei'i'itories which S|)ain had made no altempt t<> occnpy or nlili/,e. On the real merits of the case tlh-j'e wi-re sti-on^" arjj^unients to Im proented nil hotli sides; hut in this coiiirov eisv tlu; JIK •It; liad no plact On June lveniiiie!it to n<'c(pf, as a I'estoration of matters to their orii^inal state and a iieci-ssary precedent to friendly neL;''»t ialion, ill! oifer of the Spanish kiiiL,^ Ut yisc due satisfacliou • ' ; t Till!: yOOTKA CONTROVERSY. for tlu' insult, to restore tliu vcsst'ls, and to Indonniifv the o'vners. Tin; (juestion niiij^Iit also l)e lel't open whetlier i,lu' fp/ni/nii" ajid Xorf/t West Airn'rivd were justly entitlt'; treaties. Tlie IJritish amhassadoi- accepted a niodilied f »rm of the last condition; and hy a deelar.i- tion and counter-declaration siL;ne(l on July 'J4th the r<'(|uii'ed promises were 'L>i veil and ri'ceived hy I'deiida JMaiica and Fitzherhert, with the condition that these documents were not to affect the rights ol' either power to an <'stahlisliiiiciit at Nootka.'"'*' It is stated i>y Calvo that this atj^n^enient was vo- jected hy the Ihitisli cahliiet, and tliat prejtaratioiis for war were continued.''' From a reference in later nt'Li'o iatioiis to tlie document as still in force I c( m- •lude (hat such was not the case, lait that liciotialloiis m ac( ordanc<' with the dedaratiiMis weii- he !>un lt»r t!u' settlement of the I'eal (|uestioii at issue. Says AFr (h'ei'iihow: they wen; "coiitiiiue(l at Madrid lor 'i'wisH, 0/\ i^hiint.. Ill l-J, jiinfly I'l-itici.si's .Mr f luitii )ii /.'. ;/ (• contiiiii . .1 "/' -v ,/. y, I't.'.. I' IIOJ. 111. ,iit. !>. wlii.li lUlit ill S|iaais!i (if t!lr li(';,'(itiatii'll:A aini rfsi'.ll.-i. ilirhhiilij^ HotlU! of tllO i ;ii\i'll ill t!lc .1; ll l.'r'/'is/li iiUvi otlicrs not III t!iat t.f .lati i|!fi'tioii. Till' lattir ilirlmlr two li! ivato liott's of lloiiila l.iaiu.'.'i, i '(Kli to Count Muiitnioiiii in one re, iiMil the otlnT of .\|i,il (iili to Count I'l'iiiaii XiiMt/, iiotli cNiilainiii.; tiif liilliiiiltiis of Siiain'.-i ))o.-^iLion iiml the iijipari !it inipoi-isiliility of talviii.; a livni stand a;.;.iinst l!ii;;li.sli jin t^■n■ion^^. 'l'!u''c i :< also a ' jilan of \\ liat slioiiM lir done ill tin' acliial iiiviini,^tanii'.< of Spain w itii llii^lainl.' wliicli treats of military ami ilijilonialio i.if.isuivs of .-i If- luxjtfctiuti ; uUu uiiotitur iiiiiiorttint ducuinuat, to Imt lacutioiii. ' 1 u liltlc lutiT. IMPKXDTNT, WAR. 2r>3 throo months jifnT tlic iiccrptaneo of tho Spanish (le<'lar.ition; (hnin.;^' whidi iicriod coiirirrs wt-rr con- stantly Hyin;^' hftwccn that city and Fiondon, and tho uholc civihzod world was k('j)t in snspcnsi' and anxicly as to the i-osult."'^^ Mr Fit/Ju-rlK'i-t claimed for I'nij^- lishnu-n the right to trade and settle on any pait of iro- tho coast not actually occupied; J'lorlda IManca ] j)osed to admit tlie rii^iit ahove nl and for a di:;{anco of twenty lea-'Ues into the intei'ior. I'hen other loundaries wel-e sUi rLfestcd, tl o l]nLdi.;]i ambassador linrliy consenting- to the line of 40', from the Paeilic to t!u' Missouii, beyond which line the teiiitoi-y shouhl he free to l)oth nations, the suljects of each hayin;.:^ access to settlements of the other; hut tin; S[)anini-(ls declined the proi)ositi( n. Alread\', it will he ohsei'N'ed, ( Ireat Ih-itain had con- siderahly modiiied the spirit of hei- di'inands, because in the ever chan^in^^ dewlojiments of t!ie Kumpeau situation war seemed l(\ss and less to be desired as the (lavs and wet-ks i)ass(.>d on. It is not necrs. ai-y to de(i'il)e tlujsi' develo'inn'iits; biit the atliti 1- I'ance was a coi itroll in-'- ileuK^n t. 1 )U1 XVI la- <)| V,a;' re.-idy enf'U<>-h to accede to the demands oi' S[)ain for aid, but i-eferred tln^ matter on AuLiUst 1st to tho national assembly/'' which body on the 2'')th de- cided to yreatly increasi' t];e I'l-en**!! armament, and while promisiuL!,' to obsei-ve the defensive and com- nicrcial stij)idations of the Ibrnu-r treaty, clearly ini- pfu'd that l''i"ance desired pi-aceand could not be relied ell foi" aid in an oifensi\e wai-. Tlii - action made it the intc^rest of I'^n'-land nov. ;is it h.id 1 icell K! in from the tii-st. to avoid v,;;r. With l''ra l!i;;f of nee ell- lli'elv neutral, l''n';land would pi-obably havi' insisted :ld "11 a ru;)ture; with i'h'ai ice as an a lb >;!m Wo! '!r< I ,iliinf',i (>i: mil/ fill., "JllT ; Suriiii. •il' t/ii ,V. ;/( t'/ilt. a/i.s' {t'-f'fMmtl it I'll Uii ll'sii'ilv Inlii'i'ii Emiliiiiil ilinl Siiiiiii in Jl'.HI, Ijoli.toll O"'-"). ''V'S vi. <';ilvo, .'US, Bii\s the (IriiiiiU'l if SjiMiii Will iiiaili' fiftcr t !<• ii"n'('iiuii f uf •'i:ly -Ijli li;i 1 liecn njcrttil liy i;ii,^!.i!iil. Ariniiliii ,' t" I'lc dmuiiu iil lu lliii .r H,ii,l /;,■/ ,',,• it \\;i.s il.itiil .hiiio llitU. (.ircciiliow makuh tliu Ualu ul tlio iLNSLiiiljly (lutii'u August (itii. Ij 234 THE NOOTKA CONTROVERSY. jirobably not luivo yielded without a .striij^glo licr cliiiiiis to oxclusivo sovereignty in the nortli-west; hut with France insisting on })eace, an aniicahle set- tlement scorned desirable to both disputants."* Fit/.]ici"bcrt ac(n»rdingly subniitteil a neM i)roposi- tion, which aCtcr discission and niodilicalions was agrci'd upon l>y both plenipotentiaries. iJel'ore sign- ing it, however, Florida Blanca submitted it to a junta of high Spanish officials, together with a long argununt in lavor of its adojjtion."'* There was a bittci" op[)osition, for the concessions were humiliating to Spunisji pride; but it was necessary to sul)mit, choosing the lesser of two evils, and on ()cto))cr "JStli was signed the * Nootka c aoimil till! intciiliiiii.sof tliu Frt'iicli Assi'Uilily ; ami »ay:s that it \\i.s tiiri)ii;jrli tlio iiu'diiitiim (f iiit'iiilnTs of tliat liixly tliat now lU'jrotiatimiH wcic ojiciud. f'alvo, JiWiail, ;t4i), tells ua that the proposition came; fi-oiii tliu ijik'uu nf I'ortiigal. '■■"•'I 111! iloctimciit is j.'iv<^ii ill full in Cu'rn, I'cciiiil, IIM-'k nnd is a vtiy iiit( ivsti!i'4 oiii^ 'I'ht! author paints tho contlition of his loinitry in vi ry iLiik iMiloi-.-:, CAplaiiiin;^ tliat it has ni'itht't' money noi' ciidit fur a fuivi;,'ii \\:iv. lio takcM uji tho otlirr jiowtTs one hy one in (irtler to ishow the pro.peets of uaiiiiMH foreiun alliaiiee ; solium are hostile or liounil to the foe ; houk' are williim lint. iHit \\niih t'lc liaviiig; otiiel'H wonhl demand too gnat a [iliee. lU'.siii i< the most proiiii^ii!;; ally. 'I'he I'nitt'd States has lieen Houm'.ed aiid i ■ \m11 diNjiofied, laituoiild insist on tiie free navigation of the Mis>ii.ssi|ipi a:iil lu !\ lafe [.art of I'loiida. The I'eply of I'l'anei! siiows that she i.i ^ct he >\v- ))eiidiM| on. as there are a thousand definitions of a 'di'fensive' alliaiiee; and eviii if well dia|M)s»d her strenj,'th is nnmanaf,'eahle hy reason of Inteinal coiiiiiliralioiis. 'J'he eoiint admits that to yield will greatly wi'aUen Siiaui-li ijowir in America, and eneourago the pretensions of other powirs l)esil ''II 1.0 .!>•■ icc; mid iiU'iiiiil ;Uli
  • S{), liy tlic «iil»jirts of litlicr of till' iDiitractiiig [Kirties a^'jiiiiHt tlir Hiibjccts of tiiu otlicr; and tiiat, in ciiM- any L'U.s.itii>u hIiuII 1)1' iiiadi! to tlu'iii for the losses wliioii tluy have sustained. ' AiiT. .'{. And, in order to streugtheii the Iionds of frieiidship, iind to pre- )<(fve in future a jHirfect liarniouy, ete. . .it is a^ieed, tiiat tl. -ir ri'sjHetivo siiiijcets i^liall not he disturhed or molested, either in iie .igatin;,' or eairyiu:,' oil llieir lisiuiies in the I'aeilic Oiean, or in the Sonlii Suas, or in landliii^ on the eoasts of tliiwe seas, in jilaces not already oecupied, for the purpose^ uf eiiiryiii'4 on tluur eoniineiei; with the natives of the country, or of niakiiii.; settleiiit iits there; the whole siihjeet, neverthel ,'ss, to the restrietionsspicilitil ill tlie three following; articles: 'Ai;T. 4. Jlis Hritaniiie majesty engages to take the m'wt effectual meas- ures to prevent the navi;,'ation ami li.^hery of hLs suhjectsiu the I'aoilie Oeiaii, or i" l!ie South Seas, fi'om heiiig made a pretext for illicit tridr witli tiie Sl. U is aijreed, that as Mill in the places which are to he reston il to the Jiiitish hulijccls, liy virtue of the first article, as in all otln i parts of the nortii-wcHtiin coa.'^ts of North America, or of the islands adjacent, situ- ateil to the north of the parts of the said coast already ocic\ ii)u.-!y to comniit any violence or- act of fmc •. ?-hall lie ImiiiihI to ih.'.'im' an i'\:ict i-eiiur t of the alliiii', and of its liiciini'tanri-i, to tin ir respective courts, mIi'i will terniiriate such dilU ii'iices in an amicaMe niaiuiei', Ai;r. S. < 'onveiition to he ratilicd in si.\ weeks or BiNiner frinn ilate ol hiLrniilni'e, I'tc. Sieiit .\rticli'. [Unknown to li|-eenho\\, Twiss, et ill. I .\rticle it is to iii'iiiiii in force oidy as long as no setlleiinnt is made on tlio.se coasts li\ the nilijicts of any thir'd power'. To lie found in Ca/m, Ifi.ni il. .Vtd !•; Annniil Iti 'jiuli r, xxxii. .'{().". .">; '■'('n //- hiir'!^ (J,: null ('ill., 47<>-7; '/'"/'.is' >)i-. tjn.^i.. II,'! 17; md in many otler ^* "rl;s. .\ 'opy was sent at once to California, and ia found in Arch. Cal., MS., J'njf.s/. i'uj,,,i\. aoy 13. Tlli. \OOTKA CONTROVERSY. i If c'ViMi fiv»in npju'oacliiiiLj witliiii tt'U leaj^ucs of tlu)so (•••jisis uhviuly ()C('ii|>"k'(l l>y Spuiii; also to f(niiMl no [icruKiML'iit c'stablishiiR'iits below the Si)a!iish ])osscs- .sioiis in South Anu'rica. Lands and buildings taken from JJtiti.ili subjects in the Xootka region, that is if any had been taken, were to be ri'stored. The ratiiieations were iinally exchanged on N»)Veniber 'Ji'd, in ^ladiid. In December the matter came up in the Englisii ]»arliament, wheiv the o(»|)ositi(»n icgai'ded the treaty very much as it had been regaran- i>h jiglits; but thi; London view of it was that by the ;;ai;ic convention an ]']iiglishman's undoubted right to trade and settle in any jiar^ of America h;id bicn unjustL' ;:nd needlessly restricti'd. The average i'Jig- li-!i n;;:id coid j>ot deemed necessary v\v\i to explain the diiliculties sngg'estcd by the op[)osition.''''' \/hile the Nootka onxention was in one sense a 1riui;![)h for CJreat Britain, since ^lu- gained llr jM»int, at is iue, the rii-ht to trade and scltk on tl;e Xortli- \vest Coast, ana!:i than ■''' f/enisdrif'x Ptirfliiniftitari/ Thf»if<'y, xxviii.; >:rifnhnir^H Or. "»f Arlii'lr *_', tliat pruiH 'ry taki-ii huliMi|iU'iiTl\ tn .\]i?il slmuM Ik' I'l-dto- -l itf jyiihl /or: yi't, alllioiiiiii caii'li-HsiicsM in sinli a mattrr wnuM tAcm iKilikoly, it is im|iiissil)li> tn ilisiovcr any liidilcn |)in|>i)«i' in tlu' h' Kox's iil>|ci'tii)ii that tlir tvity li'tt niiini I 11 Kcvoral iioiiits tor ililleiciit iiiturpi'i!t5*tiou8 auil coum-ipicnt truiiliKs WHO of mure weight. is. SPAIN RETTRES. 'IV It i)y right lilies :si> a |i(iint |(.rlli- ^jKiiii, ■\rlu- |i tail" than 1/ Cnl., N<>iitk:ii ■ill w . Ii |slii>u''l \Vli\llwe\'ei', if she had Imu'U in c(»ndition for wai': thoug'i jiiideand i)o[)ular sentiment wouM prohahly have pre- vented it. l>y tlu» tn^atv Sj)ain must he deemed to have relin- quislicd forevei" all her claims to sovei'eigntv on the noi'th -western coasts as founded on discovei'v. 'i'lie rt'gion was restored to what may he termed a state of nature, with the exception of Nootka, which was already a legitimate Spanish possession, though siih- Withln it eilhei* s " jueiitly ahandoned, as we sh. pain or I'Jigland might form settlements at any ])oints not pre\iously occupied, and l>y this act might juiri> sovcj-eignty over extents of territory to In <|e- termined at the time or later when (|Uestiiins ef honndary should arise. I cannot accept the theoiies a(lvocateio\ided for w« re meiH' ti.-hling-posts lor temiiorary tise: oi- that, as ^Fr (Jreeuliow [>uts it, "hoth parties le liv the coiiMiition e(|ua!ly exchidt'il . . .froniexer- that juri>dicti(tn which is essi-ntial to political \\( cl-^lU'l sovereignty, over any Spot north of the most norihern Spanish settleim-nt on th racitic."'*'' It is not Uii- •''*'* il'fcnhow's hKsi is tlmt tin' frcr iHrcssdl' nuli to tlif (itlin-'s Hcttlciiiiiit-* wniilil (listjiiy tlu' sc>v«Ti,'i;,'iity. wlii' li siiiiis all iil)>ui'ilits . Me JiN'i woU't- 'Tlic riiiiM'iitioii, ill liiu'. «'st.il)li'-liril 111 « liiisi > t'nr the iiii\ I ;.iiiiiii iiinl li .ln'iy ii! llic 'csin'itixr |iiirtu's, ami tin ir • hIi' v iili tlii iiitivo ii ut' Aim rif.i. < \>.'|>t m> tar as it in:.} iiniily .'III iil>r(i;iiili()ssihle that the secret treaty of alliance, generally helieved to have heen signed ahout this time, <'ontaiiied a iiiiitual agreement not to found any permanent set- tlements on the coast. Tliis matter of sovereignty in the north-west under t]]r convention of October 171)0, nhout which Spain mid lOiiglaiid never foinid h^isure to (juai'i'el, or excn to interfeie with the ti'ading operations of a thiid party, the Americans, assunuul some importanci> in later discussions rcisptjcting the (piality of the title transmitted by Sj)ain to the United States; and another (piestion of interest in the same connection was whether the Nootka treaty was of such a nature as to 1)0 nullifitsl by subserpient war between the contracting parties. These phases of the to[)ic will reciiive attention in their proper place. M "■'Viooroy Rovillii fJij^'cilo. In/orme 12 Ahr'd t79.T, i;M-.'>, kcciiis ti> linvi' III) suspi('i<;ii tliiit till' Ndvtiiwost Coa^t wan tlirnwu oju'ii tu Mii'.'lisli tradiTs mill Hcttlcrs. He ri';.'an!s Artii'k's H iinil 4 of tlio treaty "f littlo iin jcirtiilicc, lierausf tlicro ai'c 'fi'W or no iliioccnintMl Hpots. . . w liifli ari3 imt Kiilijirt to Siiaiii.sli iloniiiiion.' Ami lie ineiitioiisii royal order of 1 KtiiiiIu'i- "J"), \~'.M, to tin; t'll'cct that tiic English conld only setth; north of Xootk^i, 'tiii dividiiif,' line lictwwMi our loi,'itiinute iio.ssessions and the regions open for thi: reciprocal use iind trade of hotli nations lieiug lixed at 4S'.' '■"Se])teinlier ((, ITS!). The viceroy writes to the governor of Cidifornia that liy the king's order llritish trading vesst^ls must not I>m niolestod ; hut if ihiv iir.kc Nettleinenta I'ontrary to the treaty they must he wjwiK'd and the Uinj,' imorniud. Arch. Vat., MS., Pruv. St. Pap., xi. 3(>-40. CHAPTER VIII. EXPLORING AND COMMERCIAL EXPEDITIONS. ITIK) ITitt. Spanish Puiotcrp atiox op Nootkv nv Ei.isv — Fidaloo's Expi.oiiaiiov in* Tilt Nitinii— Qrnii'Ku in tiik Strait ok IYca—Hh (Juaui- ('hiaktt ANI> TUB ' AutJONAIT' — No Frit-TKAIIK — KKNOUK'K'.S ScHKMKS -1-'\!'I,0- nAiiiNs KsrrillKKTA' AND 'AtkI'.VIDA' -TllK <1aII- nisoN — Tin: Poston Tkakkks — (Jkay ani> Haswki.i, -Kkni'Iihk - Inciiaiiam—Maiuiianii's Visit ami Mai- — Fi.Kri!iKi:'s Essvv Vi>VAt;i;.s OF 1702 — Tiik Tkahkiw — Tiik 'Coliimiua Ukiuviva" P.i ii.hinc op Tin: 'AovKNTruK' — Haswki.l's Loo — Maokk, ('ooi.iht;!:, i'.it'iwv, STKWAItr, PaKKK, SlIKI'IIKKO, ( 'oi.K — PoilTIOIKSK VlvSSKI.s A I'llliNilI TuAi>i:ii -Spanish Exim.ouations— CaamaSo in iiik NoiiTii (iAi.i \n<» ANli \'ALi)KS UN IIIK 'S|-TII.' ANIi 'MKXirANv' -Tlllini .,11 TIIK SiKAir iiK Flta — Navaurkte's Simmary — VANCOtrvKii's Exri.(»;:iN(i Exi'i'.i'iiinv. Vici:u()Y Flokes bad rosolvod to ()('(U[>y Xootka oil liis own ivsponsibiiity. Why he onlcix'tl Maitiiic/i to ahaiuloii the post is not known; [)(>ssihly he was iVi.s'htrni'il at thi' prosjujctivo results ol' his sulxn-di- iiatc's acts, or royal orders may simply ha\v i't'([nir('d llu' juvscnco of the vessels and oilici'rs elsewhere. ( )ii Oetohi'r IH, 17H0, however, the eonde de Hevilla (Ji'-edo fsueceeded Flores as viet>rov, and lie at oneo ti>ok steps to renew the occupation, (»rders iVnm the Isini^" to that etlect havini( been received too late to jiievent the recall of Atartinez. Similar oidirs were icnewed ai'ter the news of Xootka events had reacluil I'luiope. The new expedition was jiut under the t oni- iiiand of Lieutenant Francisco Elisa, who sailed on the shi[» Couci'iKioHy with the snow San (Jdrlos, or 240 KXPLOUIX*; ANP COMMEPCIAL KXPRDITIOXS, Filiiuiio, iindci' liii'Uti'iiant Salvjidor l""'i{l;ilLC<», juul tlip slodp I't'iitrc.^fi I'cal -{\\iii is, tin- faptuicd Prtinrss Jioijol — niulc-r Allurcz M.-mucl QuimiMi-.' TIi<' time vi'ssels salk'd from San JJlason Frl)j-uarv n, I7'.)0, Will litti'd and siijn)licd lor a year, rarryiiii;' also a conipauy of voIuiitciT soldins foi-^^aii'isoii duty,'-' to,%'c(Ii(.'r wlih ai'tllliTy and all tliu nt'ccssary war-stores lor the northern pres'nho. The voya'^'e was uneventfnl, and t!ie linst land sighted was at Woody Point. 'I'lie two Spanish vessids Jinelioi'ed at Xootka on Ajiril atli, and the loss speedy lin^lisli prize arrived two days later. l^^ oil; was at once l»ej_>un on the ivstoi'ation ot the old I'oililieation and harraeks, The formal act r j)ossesHion took placi' on tlie loth, MJien the lla;. was I'.nfiriled and saluted hy a o'eneral dischariJ'e of the nev.jy mounted j^ims. I)uiinL( tlie rest of the year notliin;^* is known to have ((ceui'i'ed to distuil* the peacei'ul moiKitoiiy of i^arrison life at Santa (Vu/ de Xutl;a.* TIk eliief ^fafpiinna had retired to sonu; distance fiom \\\v p(»rton account, of unt-xplained (hlll- eulties with ^lai'tinez; but on heinijr assured that a ('oniniaiidi'r I'.lisii whs iiiatruotiMl ti> fortify the fuit anil t'lvot tlio siinplu lU'l'OS:-;!' V lll'.l lll.-VS, llwi'llill •1 MCC thv f) (if the Inili.ins. t ciiliii'' tliem \\\ llislinp: li WHS t. til .1 iscictliili, l'l\ c, till .1 nniiU net' ; t:)(kfinil tin.' estiiljlisliiiH n^ fioiii cviTy insult, wliittlaT fiuiii tin: l!iili,ii!:i I'l' friim t!i".' siilijri'tH of iiiiy fi.iii.;ii jjowi r; not to insist on ii iiiiniili^ fxaniiiintioii of tlicir vrssfls, or on nioK'stin.L,' or m'i/iny tlicni, nor cviii to [iiiii.!i lli.^ vtssi t littiu'r times to farcfully oxplori" tlic coiists, iskinils, aii'l portM up to (is ( 'ook liiv 1 tlie straitof Juan de J'uia. /.'< rilln tlii/ali; liij'uniit tir J : ilr Alir',1 /,.'' /. I.'? ) 1. It will 111' noted tliat lliese instruelion< weic j.'iveu kefo tlic controverKV lu.'tween Spain and J'",nHland was known in Mexico. I'j'i Alk' 11.-5 eoiiijianv .seems to 1 lavo ,11 under tlie eomuiainl of |)oii Tedro lerni. w"!io n i.iiiiied kut a slmrt time, left lii.s name attaeln d peVMiallell! .y to an inlet in llarclay Sound, lieeamu very ])o|)ular witli \\w Indians, and linaliy .sei-ved until dealk in Calilornia. See 7//'.v/. Vol., vol. ii, eliap. i., t! series. •'L'/ini\ SaViila (/(.' /o.'( /rM fnn/nct piird ynthri, iiiio iio.si OS IIKll'lS ikk diidivus.' ItcviUa iiiijiUo, liijoriiie, lol. Xootka: .se formi'i una jiokkieion einiipeteiiti', ,l)Ie: se eoii»ij^iii('i la luiellll eorre.->poU(lelieiii de lios del ealiikalaeke 6 coliiereio, y de alguiiaa coriui FIDALOO A\T) QUIMrEPw'H MOVKMnXT!?. 2}| new f()iMiiiaii(U'r liiid l)c't'ii sent to rc'iiliuv \\U vuviwy liL' )'(!turM('(l and hccaino fVicndly." ]']x|il(»i'ati<)iis vrciv ill order ;is s)oii as ilic fort \va«4 cniupleti'd, and oil May -Uli IJi'iUciiaiit l''idal;4o \va^< ali()iis on the .\lasl;;ui co.ist, mainly in tlif ivuioii of l*rInco William Sound and ( 'las.° It v.as on the Mist of May that Elisa despa*^ched the I'riiiccsfi Ju'dl under Allere/, CJuimper to explore the strait of Fuea, which had heeii discovered, as we ha\(' seen, by ]^arclay, and explored i'or a short dis- tance from its mouth by J)ui!i!i and (Jray, jn-rliap; also by Jveiidrick and ]laro. (^iiumjier exjiloifd not only the strait ])roper, hut tlu; wlileiiinn' faitlier east, which he called Seiio de Santa Jlosa. J I is projJi'ress v.as slow and his examination a careful one. l>y tlu^ end of June lie had surveyed the iiorthei-n shore to the region of the modern A'ictoi'ia, and had discovered the main noi'thern channel, which still bears the nanu! he ^ave it in honor of his sailing-master, (anal de Lopez de l[aro; tlu'U lie crossed over to the south shore, and named for him ;elf what is now Si|ui:.i ]>ay. lEe surveyed Port JJiscoveiy, whicii lie luinied ^Qn'tn^per, Sliiiitmlo jvcnn. ilc Fin'ti, MS, ''Falii/i/o, I'lVf;/!' ill I P(('/i'i',ii/ ^/'i/i/iiiin'. , . ]irirn Irn* rrroiinr!l)li)':ltM ill I /'i;iii!/ii' (liiiUinnii y rinde Conk, li'j'i, MS., in WmiiM nl Xorti i/c 'W., N'o. S; iilso t'iil/i./i/o, TiOiIh que Vliililjiin/ii, vU\, Ms., in /(/., Nit. 1(t; /!,'ril/ I (Ir/nl' ■foi-iii<;, 1H)-1; Xm 'wir, tix.- xii. Dei nri'i'f. v I'l'JI-i A, (>4-('i; /!• IM 11 2.2 1.8 1.4 11.6 Photographic Sciences Coiporation 4n^ ■€-^ f '^xV <> > M2 EXPLORING AXD COMMERCIAL EXPEDITIONS. Boclcga y Cuadra; liut he mistook the nature of the main passaj:^e to southern waters, the mouth of which he named Ensenada de Caamailo. Sent northward in boats, his men discovered also the secondary northern channel, Boca do Fidalgo, now liosario Strait. The details of his survey arc best shown on the appended copy of his chart.' «^^ / ■9 :9 CO 4.(<, ^^ I'ur/.n '■■■-'■ Ik: >, Pta.de S.Ju^nN_7.V,v,-,,^i ' '^' ,.f ISL.D?. UA ROS4\^--{«/25pta.de Mcrano Je la Vl fi 'it J ^^^^ 'it _rV*^" ^O' 14 QcjiMrER's Mai'. Though Quimperwas the fir iiscoverer of all this region, the names applied by him were with a single exception not permanent; Squim Bay should bear his name rather than that of Budd ov Washington. On the 18tli of July he tifrned westward and followed the southern shore of the strait to the ocean, talking formal possession on the 1st of August at Port Xuilez Gaona, or Neah Bay, as he had at several points be- ' Chart mailo by the jiihto, Gonznlo Lopez do Haro; copy obtained l)y tlio United States ( rovefunient from Madrid, and ptd)li.shcd in li'rph/ -i/ tin' ('hUkI, Stairs. . .IS7.', in eonnectioii witli the San .luan boundary dispute. For ein- venience I have omitted in my copy the ■western portion of the strait. Tlie names on the part omitted in their order from the entrance eastward are as follows : North shore, Pla Bonilln, Pto de .S'. Jiirtn or Xarvaf., liio Sviuhrio, Pla Maijilalvna; south shore, Pta de Marthuz, Pta de Pada, li. de yuiliz (I'uoiin, Edx. de Poxas ; below the entrance on the Pacific arc Ptn. de IfiJoMi and ]}oca de --1/rtm. Jit Citnnelo anil sierr.a of S. Antonio are in tho north- cast uud south-east, just beyond the limits of my copy. rURTHER OF COLNETT. 243 fore.^ On leaving port the sloop steered for Nootka, but she could not make the port, ind was di'iven south- ward. Finally on August 1 3th she gave up the eftbrt and turned her prow toward Monterey, where she anchored on the 2d of September. Her consort, the San Carlos, as we have seen, arrived at the same [)ort on the 15th, and Quimper and Fidalgo reached San Bias together in November.* Only one vessel besides those of the Spanish expe- dition just described is known to have visited the Northwest Coast in 1790; that one was the Aiyo- ■naut, in which Captain Colnett after his release sailed I'rom San Bias, probably in August. He had on board the crews of both vessels, and an order for the de- livery of the Princess Royal at Nootka, but on reach- ing that port he did not find the sloop. He believed the Spaniards had deceived him intentionally;^" but v.'c have seen that unforeseen circumstances had com- ] )ell(j{l Quimper to sail southward earlier than had been intended, and he had probably passed Colnett on the way. It was said that the irate Englislmian, not- withstanding his distress, obtained a valuable lot of I'urs before he left Nootka." However this may have been, Colnett left the coast and, miraculously as he thinks, arrived safely at JMacao. The next year ho received his sloop from Quimper at the Hawaiian Islands. Thus, though the Spaniards had obtained a few skins in the course of their explorations, the fur- ''Tlic full act of possession is given in the diiuy. Xoah Bay is errone- ously xtatcil hy (Ircouliow, Daviil.iim, iiivX others to bo tin; Poverty Cove of the American traders, Ijut Cray's i'overty Cove was on the northern shore. See last ehapter ; also JiosirclC-i Luimper, and states that ho returned to Xootka, tliouyh this author seems to have seen the oriy- iual diary. '•'(Jiiliiijicr, Sf(jundo rcconocimkuto di' la entrndd do I'nra y msfa roinprcn- dida ddro tlla y la dc Xoot/ca, Iwc/to cl cii'io de I'lUi), MS., in V'kvji s (il Nortn df ('«/., Xo. 11, To this diarj' and table is added a long neeount of tho Xootka region, its people, language, etc., ineluiling an account translated from one prepared by Mr Ingraham of the Culnmbia in 17^!'. ^''(-'ohult'.i Voij., iOl. Ho says that the orders of tho Spanish commander ((Juimper), which he saw when ho met him later, showed tliat it had been im- possible to meet him at Xootka; but this ia not very iutelligible. " C«((c//«, in VuHCouver''s Voy., i. 388. s^ EXPLORING AXD COMMERCIAL EXREDITIOXS. trade had been practically suspended for the year. Captain Kendrick might have reaped a rich harvest in the Lady Washington, but he was never in haste, and lost the season by remaining in China engaged in other schemes." Commander Elisa had remained at Nootka with the garrison; and his ship, the Conceijcion, had wintered there.*' On February 4, 1791, the San Carlos was despatched from San Bias under the command of Alferez Ramon Antonio Saavedra y Guyralda, with Juan Pantoja y Arriaga as 2^iioto, arriving at Nootka after a long and stormy passage late in ]\Iarch. Elisa had orders to complete his exploration of the coast from IMount St Elias in the north to Trinidad in the south. ^* He accordingly transferred himself to the smaller vessel, left Saavedra in charge of the Concepcion and garrison, and sailed on May 5th. The San Carlos v/as accompanied by the schooner >Srtuto Saturnina,ov Ilovcasitas, under Jose Alaria Narvaez.^'' The winds compelled the explorers to direct their course south- ward instead of to the north, as they intended. About fittcen days were spent in a careful examination of '-'HaswcU, Log of the Cohimhkt, 5IS., 7, says he Micgan to make his vessel a brig. This operation being luuler his directions, took such a length of time that he lost his season. ' Greenliow tells us Kendrick 'had been engaged, since 1789, in various speculations, one of which was tlie collection and transporta- tion to China of the odoriferous wood called sandal, which grows in many of the tropical islands of the Pacific, and is in great demand tliroughout the Celestial Empire. Vancouver f)rononnced the scheme chimerical; but cxpe- I'icnco has proved that it was founded on just calculations.' Kelley, letter of •Tanuarj' 1, 1810, in Thornton's Or. Ifist., MS., 89, incorrectly states that Ken- drick had remained over from 1789, and in the winter of 1790 built a I'urt Washington at Mawinah, making a trip into tho Fuca Sea later. All this is a confused allusion to earlier and later events. '^Navarrete, Jwo'/cs Aydi'., 115, says that the two vessels suffered nuicli, until tho Princesa had to be sent south with 32 sick men, sutTering with scurvy, etc. But this does not agree at all with tho facts as sliown by ((.hiimper'a diary, since it is hardly possible that the sloop went back to Nootka in the winter after reaching San Bias in Noveml)er 1790. ** Particularly tho entrada do Bacardi, strait of Fonte, port Cayuela, boca de Carrasco, strait of Fuca, entrada de Heceta, and port of Trinidad. '■"'The presence of this schooner at Nootka is not explained; neither is it anywlierc stated what had become of the North Weft America, or i!ertrHdi< of 1789. Later the Hanta Satiirntna and Ilorcasltas are mentioned as distinct vessels. MOVEMENTS OF ELISA. 245 CatLul il9'Sfi_ Boca lie Canarcral ^ ;■'■> sVarchipielago de s-^-,'::/ nitinato'carrasco ^ , ° '' J^--\ A ^'Pia.de Araus\ ^ >^- ^ ^c •^Pt^.deArzj inlluca .(<; Moiuno ffS(iolM\ . ^ J. Jorilan I \ /Pta'de Sn.Eusevio -- Fto.AoNra.w t.^0 ^o^ • - x oVV \ ^ ■^^' ra I - '.*: . , - , M ^^\ t) NiuLAt ■-"..vF'fi"':'." 'c^^'^?. ■ r- Stiuura tie lol-r^, " 2?a.i K,° "'ll\ij:~^\-^?4 Elisa's Map, 1791. 9| 246 EXrLORIXG AND COMMERCIAL EXPEDITIONS. Cayucla, or Clayoquot, and the adjoining region.^' Then the snow entered the strait of Fuca, and on May 29th anchored in Quimpcr's port of Cordoba, while the schooner first explored the Boca de Car- rasco, in Barclay Sound. From Cordoba the boat was first sent out under the second ■piloto, Josd Verdia, to survey the Haro Channel; but the hostile actions of the natives, some of whom were killed, caused the ])arty to return. On June IGth, however, Narvaez having arrived, the schooner and launch, prepared for defence, again entered the channel, and continued their search in this and subsequent entrances until August 7th. What they accomplished is best shown by the accompanj'ing copy of their chart. In the south-cast Elisa added nothing to Quimper's survey beyond discovering that the bight of Caamano was the entrance to an unexplored southern channel; but eastward and north-westward a very complete examination was made of the complicated maze of ].4ands and channels, into the great gulf of Georgia, which was named the Gran Canal de Nuestra Sehora del Rosario la jSIarinera, and up that channel jiast Tejada Island to 50°.'^ Several inlets extending east- ward and north-eastward into the interior were dis- covered, which might afford the desired passage to the Atlantic, but their exploration had to be post- poned for a later expedition. Several names, such as San Juan, Giiemes, Tejada Island, and Port Los x\ngeles, are retained on modern maps as applied by Elisa, while others given by him and Quimper, such as Rosario, Caamano, Fidalgo, and Cordoba, are still 'Tnntoja, with the launch, from the 11th to the lOtli, explored what is callud the luu'th-west mouth (-i the port. The names apjilied were boca.s de Sdiircilra, gulf of San Jioni BnuHnld, canal de San Antonio, port >«/* laitiro, island San. I'cilro, bay Nan Jlii/ai;/, canal do San Francisco, Iwcas de San Siifurnino, canal de San Juan Xciioinnccno, and the great jiorts of Gi'ichia and Ctiraldc. Tlie schooner had meanwhile explored the northern mouth ami several branches, but no names are given. ''On Vancouver's map the name was applied to the channel between Tejada Island and the main, why is not known ; and for some equally niys- terious I'eason the name was again transferred in later years by English geog- raphers to the narrow southern strait that still bears it. ELISA'S NOMENCLATURE. 847 it i.s s ,1c Si HI. Elisa's Mai* of Nootka Coast, 1791. 248 EXPLORING AKD COMMERCIAL EXPEDITIONS. in use, but not as originally applied. The expedition left tlie strait in August, on account of prevalent scurvy among the men. It is not strange that on lii.s return to Nootka from the labyrinth, Elisa wrote to the viceroy: "It appears that the oceanic passage so zealously sought by foreigners, if there is one, cannot be elsewhere than by this great channel." I append here another part of Elisa's map, showing the outer coast from above Nootka down to the entrance of the strait. It includes not only his own surveys but those of earlier Spanish voyagers.^^ In Elisa's absence, perhaps before his departure, the Aranzazu, commanded by Juan B. Matute, ar- rived at Nootka from San Bias, presumably v»ith .supplies for the garrison. There was, however, a ])ressing need of certain articles which she had not brouglit, and to get these and also the men who liad been left sick in California, the vessel made a trip to Monterey and back, Matute leaving some of his mechanics in the north temporarily. He sailed about May i^Gth, was at Monterey June r2th to 28tl), and was back again in California before the end of August. All that I know of this trip is derived from frag- mentary correspondence in the California archives of tlie year, showing Matute's presence and the nature of his mission. He brought from the north despatches which were sent to Mexico overland; and he seems *^ The only sources of infoi-mation about this voyage, wholly nnkno^\^l to Greenhow aivl oMier writers on north-west discovery, are a resume of Pautoj;r.'j original diai'y in Nararrete, Vkujes Ap6c., 11-1-'21, and an extract from tiio same diary in Rcpl'i of the. United Slates, 97-101, from a cei-tified copy of the original in the Hydrographic Bureau in Madrid. The map wliich I liavu copied is from the same source. The parts not copied are the southern bhorc ct the strait and for a short distance below Cape Flattery, or Point Martinez, on tlie Pacific shore (as in Quimper'a map, already described); also sketch charts of Clayocuat, Los Angeles, IJuena Esperanza, Nuca, and San Rafael. Tlie only name in the extract from the diary not on the map is Zayas Island. See also mention of the expedition in lieviUa G'kjkIo, In/orme, 141: 'En el tercero (reconocimiento) practicado el aflo de 91, se interno la goleta Satuniiua (jue llevii en su conserva el Teniente de navio D. Francisco PJliza, maudaiulo el paquebot S. Cdiios hasta el gran canal que Uamaron de Nuestra Seftora dil Kosario.' A mention in the diary of Kendrick's arrival at Nootka on J uly l-tli may indicate that cue of Elisa's vessels returned before August. MALASPINA'S VOYAGE. 219 to t;!0 10 IVO f on l!0 ul. el I. a \o lei ■2th also to have brought despatches of some inipurtanco from Mexico to the northern comnuinder." Still another Spanish exi)edition arrived at Xootka, on the 13th of August, or just about the time of Elisa's return from the strait of Fuca. The corvettes Uescubierta and Atrevida, under the connnand of Akyandro Malaspina, engaged in a scientilic exploring voyage round the world, arrived at Acapulco at thu end of I7t)0 or beginning of 1791. Whether Malaspina had intended to visit the Northwest Coast or not does not appear, but here he received from the Span- ish government a copy of the memoir in which ^,1. Buaehe of Paris had lately attempted to support the genuineness of Maldonado's discoveries, with ordei-s to verify the existence or non-existence of tlie strait which Maldonado pretended to have found. The two vessels sailed from Acapulco on the 1st of May, the Atrevida being under the command of Jose de Busta- mante y Guerra; and land was first sighted on the 23d of June, in the region of Mount Edgecomlx;. (Jf their explorations on the Alaskan coast !j>ulfice it to say that no strait was found; and when about the 1st of August they entered the waters of the Xorth- west Coast, the weather permitted no observations until on August 13th tliey anchored at Xootka. The observatory was at once set up on shore, and fifteen days were spent in a scientific survey of the adjoining region. The only narrative extant contains not a word about the Spanish garrison or its com- mander, or any vessels except those of the expedition. The diaries and scientific observations of Ma]asj)ina's voyage have, however, not been published, and wo have only one account by an officer of the expedition.'" 'MrcA. Cat., MS., Prov. St. Pap., x. 1-2, 9, 22, .32, .39, 45-G, 140. Elisa's letters are dated April 20th, and Saavedra's ilay 20th, so that the Antiizcr.it sailed from Nootka, if she did not arrive there, after Elisa's departure for Lia exploring trip. September ijtli. The viceroy orders the governor of California to supply all demands from Nootka. '^"MakLyiina, Viage 17D1, in Xuvarrete, V'iar;es Apdc, 2G8-.320. It is an abridged diary by one of the oliicers, and so far as Alaska is concerned con- tains infonnatiou that is tolerably complete. In Id., Uo-8, is an account of 2.')0 EXPLORING AND COMMERCIAL EXPEDITIONS. If wc may credit Scilor Navarreto, tlic ori;:final raan- us('ri}tt,s Avcrc very coinplute, uiid their publication would have l)ccn a credit to the goveriniieut; still it is certain that their chief value would not have been in connection with what wc term here the Northwest Coast. Malaspina sailed on the 28th of August, and he made no observations of interest or importance until he icached California.^* Of Elisa and his garrison and vessels for the rest of the year nothing appears in the records, except that the San Carlos and Santa Satarnina returned to San ]-]las. Viceroy Revilla-Gigedo says: "Although various craft of England and the American colonies frequented the adjacent coasts and ports, some of them entering Nootka, nothing occurred to cause unpleas- antness or damage; and our new establishment was always respected by them, and provided with all that was needed by the other San Bias vessels, which brought at the same time the sup[)lies for the pre- sidios and missions of Alta California. "'^^ Some of the Boston owners wore not yet discour- aged at the comparative failure of their first fur- trading enterprise; and the Columbia Redlciva was fitted out for a new voyage, still under the command of Captain Gray, with Mr Haswell as first mate. The Columhia sailed from Boston on the 28th of Septem- ber 1790, and after an uneventful trip anchored at Cla3"oquot on the 5tli of June 1701. ''Thence she proceeded," says Greenhow, " in a few days to the eastern side of Queen Charlotte's Island, on which, and on the coasts of the continent and islands in its vicin- the original MSS., maps, plates, etc., and the reasons of their non-pnblica- tion. Malaspina fell into disgrace ■with the government in some political matters, and this caused a suspension of publication until it was deemed too late. All that was known to Greenhow and other writers on the subject came from a brief account by Navan-etc, in Sr til n Mp.i:, Viaf/e, cxiii.-xxiii., in Avhich Malaspina's name was not mentioned. On a map in Id. , atlas, No. .'}, Malas])ina's course abovo Nootka is laid down. -']"V)r Malaspina's visit to Monterey, where he arrived the 13th of Septem- ber, see Jl'ist. (!dl., i. chap, xxiii.. this series. *'- IiLviila Oiijfdo, LiJ'onne, 131. ^As^^'ELL^s loo. Ijlica- itical lI too bjout io. 3, itcm- ity, she remained until Soptoniber, engac^ed in trading and ox})l()ring. During this time, Gray cx])l(^red many of the inlets and passages between the 54th and the oGth parallels, in one of which — most probai)ly the name afterwards called by Vancouver the Portland Canal — he penetrated from its entrance, in the lati- tude of 54 degrees 33 minutes, to the distance of a hundred miles north-eastward, without reaching its termination. This inlet he supposed to be the llio tie lieycs of Admiral Fonte; a part of it was named by him Massacre Cove, in commemoration of the murder of Caswell, the second mate, and two seamen of his vessel, by the natives, on its shore."*^ My co])y of Mr Haswell's log begins on the 14th of August 1701, just before the shi[) arrived at what was called Hancock River, an indentation on the northern end of Queen Charlotte, or Washington Island.-* Here he met the Ilancoclc, Crowell master, iVom Boston.-^ The Culiimhki sailed on the IDtli, and touching at a few points for skins, direcited her course southward between the great island and the main without noticeable adventure,^'' except uiceting the Hope, Captain Ingraham, from Boston, on the 22d in 53^^ 2', and arrived at Clayoquot on the 29tli. As they entered, two Spanish vessels were seen passing southward, doubtless Malaspina's corvettes, which had "^ Crcenhmd'a Or. and Cah, 229-30. Ho cites the log of the Calnmhia from September 28, 1790, to February 20, 1792. He suya the disaster luippenecl on ,Vuj;nst 22(1, but it must liave been earlier. '^^JlatficeU's Log of the Coliinifiia I'cdivivo andAdv.nture, 1701-17, JIS. This eornpauion diary to the same officer's voyage of the Ijcuhj Wa.thbKjinn. in 1788-9 ■\vas obtained from the same .source ; sec page 187 of this volume. The lirst part of the log is missing, the entries beginning with August 14, 1791. It extends t) tlie arrival of the Columhia in China tlio 7th of December 1792, but a part is devoted to the movements of the Adventure, under Haswell's conunand. It i-i a document of great interest and value, and includes a number of eliarts. The original contains also views of several places, the author having uuich skill with the pencil. '■■Kelley, Jjiscov. N. }Y. Coaxt, 3, calls her the Hannah, and says sho arrived at lirown Sound, in itTt" 18', on August 13th. ^" The names used arc as follows: Port Tempest; MaxsaereCove; ^Furdrrers' Cape, 'A" 43'; Waxhlnijtoii Island, 54^ o'; Ilnneuek H'lvr, 54^ 5'; < 'ape IfnnrorL; 04' 18'; Cape LooJcout, ai' 'H'; t'o;;,'s«crt village ; Tuoeheoud'Jth, .^J' 37'; and Cojie llaswe.ll, 52" 5'. All arc on or about the north-eastern part of the island. 8S8 EXPLORING AXD COMMERCIAL EXPEDITIONS. wiilcd from Nootka tlio day before; aiul within tlie souiul they found Captain Kench'ick, their former connnander, leisurely cnga;Lijed in repairing his sloop at a place he liad named Fort Washington. A week later Gra}'' sailed again ibr a cruise to winter quarters, which it was intended to establish at liulfinch Sound, the year's trade having proved only moderately successful, because at the best places he had been preceded by Kendrick, or Ingraham, or Crowell. After being carried south by adverse winds, and narrowly escaping shipwreck near Capo Flattery, they returned to Clayoquoton the 18th of September, and resolved to winter there instead of making new attempts to reach a harbor farther north." Kendrick was still there, but soon departed. A spot near the native village of Opitseta was selected for winter- quarters; and before the end of September a house was built, cannon were mounted, and the frame of a small sloop was landed from the ship. The keel was laid on the 3d of October, and from that time the work was carried on as rapidly as the short dark daj's ami i-ainy weather would perniit. The natives w^ere very friendly; there was good shooting of geese and ducks for the officers, plenty of hard work for all in felling trees and sawing planks, and vo special excitement in camp until after the end of tl ■. year. Joseph Ingraham, formerly mate of the Lach/ TF^.s^- ii}gton,lci^t Boston in command of the hr'igllope'^^ before Gray, on September IG, 1790. "On the 1st of June, Ingraham left the Sandwich Islands, and on the 29th of the same month he dropped anchor in a harbor on the south-east side of Queen Charlotte's or Washing- ton's Island, to which he gave tlie name of jMagce's Sound, in honor of one of the owners of his vessel. On the coasts of this island, and of the other islands, " Kclley says ho returned on the 20th, and that on the 15tli he had anchored at the village of Ahshewat, on the north shore of Fuca Strait. ■■"* Fittcii out by Thomas H. Perking of Boston, who had been in Canton in 1787. Ijoxtoiiin Novth West, MS., 5. Perkins was also interested with Maguo in building the Manjartt. KEXDRICK ON THE COAST. sss and the continent adjacent on tlic north and east, ho s])cnt tlie Hiunmcr in tradin.uf, and colk'ctini^ intonna- tion as to the geography and natural history, and tho languages, n^ainiers, and customs, of the inhahitants, on all which suhjects his journal contains minute and interesting details; and at tho end of the season ho took his departure" witli lifteen hundred shins "for China, where he arrived on tho l.st of December, Captain Kendrick, on the Lady Washington trans- formed into a brig, arrived on the coast from China*^ on the loth of June. His landing was at Barrel Sound, where the natives attempted to c .; *:ure him, but were repulsed and many of them killed. Not bointr very successful in trade in the north, tho captain turned his course down tl' coast on iho 12th of July and entered Nootka. TiiO Span- iards .tided in towing the brig into ])ot, and were most hospitable in every way, but the Yimkee com- mander was suspicious, went on up to his old an- chorage of Mawinah, and having oljtainod about eiijiht hundred sea-otter skins, left the sound by the northern passage, preferring not to risk a second exposure to the guns of the fort.''^ He next Avent down to Clayoquot, where he was also fortunate in obtaining many furs before Gray's arrival. After some repairs, conducted, according to Has'vel!, in his usual leisurely manner, Kendrick sailed for China on the 29tli of September. ^^ During this visit the caj)- ^ Grcenhoio^s Or. and CaL, 22G-7. He cites Ingraham'a MS. journal and an extract from it in the Maanachuffelta J list. Co/., 179.3. Kcllcy, iJUcor. X. W. Vnast, 3, says Ingraham arrived, apparently at Clayoqiiot, on July ZV\. Haswell, Log, MS., 5, says that the Hope was almost ready to leave tho (■ last when her boat, with ilr Cru]), was mot on August '22d. Cnip liinted tiiut they had been very successful in getting furs, ilarchand, Voij., ii. 3S3, Wet Ingraliam at Macao. Ho mentions the 1500 skins. '"' Delano, Narrative, 43, aided Kendrick in fitting out hia vessel at Lark Bay, near Macao, in March. ^' This was Kendrick's version. In an extract from the diary of Elisa's voy- age, livpJy of the United States, 100-1, it is said that Kendrick entei'cd 'with lighted linstocks;' could not understand when hailed ; but later, wlion lie had reached his anchorage, and was ordered no> to trade or anch.or in Spanish ports, he obeyed, and departed next day by tiio northern passage. ^■llasivelVs Loij of the Columbia, MS., 7-10, 14, IG. 2.-)4 KXPLORIXG AXD COMMERCIAL EXPEDITIOXS. tiiiii sooins to liitv'o purchased largo tracts of land in tliu N(jotka rci^doH, i'l-oui tlio chiefs Ma([uiniia and \Vi(!ananish, ohtainint^ their marks on his decds.^' I shall speak a_!jja in of these land titles. Greenliow and others were })ei'liaps in error, as wc shall see, in statinLj tliat Keudrick never returned to America after this year."'* '''Kondiii.'k's deeds aro given literally hy ITall J. Kelley, J)!scov. A^. W. ('i)iinf, anil uvi: wortli reprodiicin,!,', as follows; July "iCt, 1701. Deed to Jolin Keiidiick. { I ). 'A certain Harhor in said Xootka Sound, called l, \\\l\\ all the land, rivers, creeks, harbors, islanils, etc., with all the jmo- duee of both sea and land a[)i)ertailiiiig thereto. Oidy the said J. Kendiiek does '^\"M\t and allow the said .M,i(|uinnah to live and lish on the said trrri- tory, as usual. The above named territory known by tiie Indian name ( 'lin.t- tai'tooa, but now by the iiiime of Snfc Itctrcitt llurlxif. [Si^^'nedJ Maijuiunah, his X mark |i.. .s.]; Warclasm;in, his x niai'k |i,. s.],' tand four other natives. 'Witnesses, .)ohn Williams, .Tohn lledman,' and eh^vcui other.s. 'A tnie copy fi'oni the orii^'inal deed. Attest, . I. Jlowell.' (•_*). Au;!^ust 5, 1701, 'Acertiin Harbor in said .Vluisset, called by the natives ( '/>ciifrkiiitini,ui which the bri'^ J.iuhi \y dc;^'. .■>() ni. N. and loni^. I"J7 , 1701, 'A certain Harbor in New Chattel, called by the natives Ilootsee-ess.but iiowcalliil Port Montgomery. . .in40deg. 4(! m. x. . . on tlu^ south side of the Soimd of Ahasset, now called Massachu.sctts Somal. . . eighteen miles square, of which tiie harbor of Hoot.sce-es3 . . . is the centre, etc. [Signed] Tarasson, his < mark |i.. .s.],' and three others. Witnesses as above. (I). August (!. 1701, ''i'he head of Nootka Sound, called by the na- tives T(in/iir.<:. . .with the land nine mih^s round said lashec.s, etc. |SiL.'ned| (Jaarshucornook, his x mark [i,. s.J, and Hamiopy.' {.'>). August 11, 1701, 'A territorial distance of eighteen miles north,' south, cast, and west from tlie village iif Opiii/iir as ;i. centre, in 40' 10'. 'The above territory known by the name of ('lyoi[not.' Signed by Wicananish and live others. Boston, October ;{(), ISIiS. Sworn eertilicates of Samuel Vendell and James Tremerc, sailor i on the ''ohiiiih'iit ;inil Jcjfcrsoii in 1701, to the ell'eetthat they knew personally of the purchases of lands. June "JO, IS;!."), sworn eertilieato of John Young at lliiwaii, that he had often heard Keudrick speak of hi.s purchase, and had seen his deeds. Witnessed by Henry A. Peirce and Hall J. Kelley. May 1 1, nOo, to .M,i3''JS, I70S, extracts from letters of J. Howell, Ca))tain Kcndrirk's clerk, transmitting and menliouing the deeds, ilareh I, 170;t, l(!tter of Kin- drick from the island of King Kong to Thomas Jellcrson. He mentions the imrehase, ami incloses copies of the deeds to renuiin in the department d state. 111! says titl e was recfjijui/ei I by the Spaniards, by being excepted in a ( Iced of lands at Nootka from Maiiuina to Cuadra. He thinks the , ie;|Ul- sition a most important one for the Cnited States. Kelley say.s another la tract between 47' and .")()' ^^•as purchased by Kendrick for his company, all th. le purchases ex tending some "J)-'.) miles. The company's territory embiaecd, according to Kelley, all of Cuadra's Island not .sold to Kendrick and to Sjiain. Of course Kelley deems this purchase tlie strongest possible foundation fir a title in the I'uited States. In a letter of .Fanuary I, 1S70, in Thornton's Or. ili.l, mi tlio y tlio hiri 1)11 ;illy of )Uii;^ ab nil liatl ■Slav II, f Ken- ilirt t'.lO IK'Ut llf Cl.'lltl.'il i aL;|iii- urlarL;!-' my, nil liracril, Sjiaiii. tioii I'm- )nii:iiu"s 111 ili'i'ild ;iai'"r ,.V .. ,' [. iv.oiio. Two otlior American tradinj^- vessels arc named by Greenhow as luiviiig visited the coast this year, the Jefferson, Roberts, from Boston, and the Mar- l/a n't, ^lagee, ircMU New York; but the latter was a Boston ship of the next year, and wc have no details of the othei''s voyage.^' It is probaljle that Eni^land was represented in the fleet of 1791^" l)y the Grace, Captain William Douglas. And now, for the first time since La Perouse's advent, the French appeared on the scene, in the person of Etienne Marchand, who sailed from ]\Iarseilles on December 14, 1790, on the SoUde. lor purposes of trade; first sighted the Northwest Coast in the vicinity of 57^ on the 7th of August, and on the '21st reached the northern parts of Queen Charlotte Islands. A careful survey and map of Cloak Bay and Cox Channel was made in the ship's boat by Captain Chanal; and by tlie same officer, aided by the surgeon Boblet, material was obtained i'or a long description of the natives and their customs. Success in trade was very slight, tlie Americans having left but few furs. A brig and boat Avere seen on the 2Gth, showing no colors, but thought to be Eng- lish.='^ From the 28th to the 3 1st Chanal made in the shallop an oxj)loration of the coast farther south as far as llennell Sound, as shown with the northern survey in the appended copy of his map. (Jbtaining few skins, Marchand sail, d for Barclay Sound, where he arrived on the Gtli of September; but before he could enter he saw a ship, doubtless the Columhio, '•■'(irccnliow, Or. and Oil., ?-2C,, cites the Mn'<.vtrhiisrff.i Iflsf. Col, 170."), .•IS ccmtaiiiinLC a ilcscription df liolnits' visit to certain islands in the Sunlii I'aciilc. In 183H .Jiiincs Tronioro ccrtilicd that he was on ihu, hil'cr.ion, I 'aptaiu Jtolnnson, which sailed from Boston in Xovcuiber 1780, and M'ns at J^ootku in 1701. '•^" J >(kuio\i iVnr., 4.1. The antlior'.s hrothcr accompanied Donj^las. Has- wcll tells ns that I'ouglas sailed from China in company with I\(?iidriek, hat that they afterward aoparateil, so that he may posHihly^ have vi'^iteil the coast. Tlie Indians at (Jlayoouot told I'.lisa in ^lay that Kendviek ami Douglas li.id lately left the sound, l)ut this could not liavc been true. Marchand, !''>//., ii. •VM\ was told hy Ingraham at ilacno that ho had left on the coast two liriija and a srhooner, the latter having had two of her men killed hy natives of the Sandwich Islands. Thcj^ had left a boat to collect likius on the > oast during the winter, and were to return in the spring. '' i'robably the Ameiican brig JJo^je, SoO EXrLORIXG AXD COMMERCIAL EXl'EDITIOXS. in whose log the sight of a ship in the south-west is noted, bound apparently down the coast, and was dis- couraged from further efforts to trade. He resolved ^ "J /I.DU NORD ■^■«irv.. i-V-- J; o ^ '~\^OrU3Ue d'Otari o3"J0' I.DU HIPPA'^^^^^^P)^ ):iU' Marciiaxd's Map, 1701. to make haste to China and sell his few skins for as much as the rival traders coming later would get for a larger quantity; and he turned from the coast MARCHAXD'S VOYAGE. 257 the night of tlic 8th, arriving at Macao by way of the Saiuhvicli Islands in November, and finding no market for his furs after all. The fruit of Marchand's unsuccessful trading voy- age, so far as my present topic is concerned, was a deseri|)ti()n of the north-western portions of Queen Charlotte Islands by Chanal and Roblet, considerably more complete and extensive than that of Dixon or any otlier earlier navigator, particularly in its presen- tation of the natives and their institutions. Tlie on/, ct 17'J.:, par i:t M'.rcl.uiid, inrvvdr d'uKti i id rod actio a hUlvrdpiv ; ampid (/ii IllBT. N. ^Y. Coast, Vol. I. 17 258 EXPLORIXG AND COMMERCIAL EXPEDITIOXS. Not less than twenty-eight vessels, and [)rohalily a few more, visited the north-west coast in 1792. More than half of the number were engaged in the fur-trade, under the flags of France, Portugal, Eng- land, and the United States.^ Five of ihem came cxi)rcssly to make geographical explorations. The rest brought government commissioners on diplomatic missions, or supplies for garrison and national vessels, or despatches to commanders. Let us first follow the movements of the traders: We loft Captain Gray with the Columbia in winter quarters at Clayoquot, hard at work on a now .sloop, the material for which had been brought in })art fi-om Boston. Fort Defence and Adventure Cove were the local names applied, most of the men living in the house on shore. In February a plot of the Indians to seize the ship was discovered, and kept the Americans in great anxiety for man}' days. Months of friendly intercourse had removed all fear of native treachery, and the plot might have been succcssiul had the Indians not attem^jted to bribe an Hawaii n servant to wet the primings of all fire-arms on a certain niglit. All but this boy were to be killed, was his story. By moving the ship to a less exposed ])osition, strengfthenin<]f the defences, and a ixeneral discharge of the cannon into the woods at random, the attack was prevented on the night apj)ointed; and a joint iffs rrrhfrches .s»r Ics tfrros am' rales de Drake, etc. Paris, an vi.-viii. (IT'.tS-KSOD), Svo 5 vols., 4to 1 vol. The Intniiluctiou is in vol. i. ]-2, 300-."); v. 100-88; vi. pi. i., general map; pi. iii., De ITsle's map of 17.'J2; pi. viii., Xorfolk IViy; pi. ix. , Cloak IJay and Cox Strait ; pi. x. , west coast of Queen Charlotte islands (copied on p. '2.")6, this chapter). '■''■'Ill Siitil If Me.vira?ia, Viage, 112, it is stated that the whole numher of trading vessels was 22, of which eleven were English, eight American, two Portuguese, and one French ; but this must be au exaggeration, so far as the English vessels were concerned. MEETING OF GRAY AND VANCOITV'ER. 2:).') thereafter a strict watch was kept, tlio friendly rela- tions of the past beint]^ broken off. On the 2:3d of February the new .sloop, named the Adventure, the second vessel built within the territory, was launched; and by the 2d of April both vessels were ready to sail for their spring harvest of furs, the new slooj) under the command of Mr Has well.*" The vessels parted at Clayoquot, the Cohtmhia going southward. On the 29th of April, Gray met Van- couver just below Cape Flattery, and gave that com- mander an account of his past discoveries, including the facts that he had not sailed through Fuca Strait in the Ladij WasihJngton, as had been supposed from ^leares' narrative and map, and that he had — just before the meeting in this same trip, I suppose — "been oif the mouth of a river, in the latitude of 4(5 10', where the outset, or reflux, was so strong as t<> prevent his entciing for nine days."*^ The log of the Columbia on this trip has been lost, with the excep- tion of a valuable fragment covering the time from the 7tli to the 21st of May.*^ On the former (.f these dates Gray discovered and entered the port in l;iti- tude 4G° 58', called at first Bulfinch Harbor, but later in the same year Gray Harbor, which name it has retained.*' On the lOtli he left this port, where he *'^Hami'elV8 Log of the Colnmhih, MS>, 2.3-.15. Benjamin Harding, the boatswain, died on Marcii '21st. " Vaiiconvcr'x Voy., i. iJl.'i-IG. Here also is mentioned the plot of the In- dians at Clayoquot, under Wicunanish. Haswell, Lo(j, MS., (i(i-7, in"ntinns the meeting with Vancuuver as told liini ))y Gray at their lirst meeting. I'Accpt this meeting with tlie English navigator, nothing is known of «!r;iy"s movements until May 7*^h; Imt as he may not liavc left Cl:iyoi|uot for some davM after April 2d, and nine days were spent off tlie river's mouth, it is not •jly that those movements were of any speeial importance. ''•^ This was an extract made in ISKi l)y >lr IJulfmcli, one of the owners, from tlie 2(1 volume of the log, which .sul)se(jiiently disappeared. The Ist volume, down to Febiiiary 1792, was consulted by (Jreenhow, Jis we have seen. The fragment was printed in 1839 in U. S. God. I)o<\,^oth (hmij., -id .V< m.. II. li( fit. Xo. Wl, and may be found in Gree.ii/iow'x Or. mid Co/., 2113-7, 41)4 -rcrion,JoHriiaf of Stiiiafi', 1800, npp., ,17-40; and this nifdal has (litcu liuL'U KiK)ken of in new.spnju'is, cti'. It was, however, tlic medal iiiailc ill copper ami l;ronze before »v//',s Lou, ^IS., (i()-7. A chart or sketch is gis-en of Btiljliirfi Soiiiid, "with ' '/itcldesct at the eastern point of entrance, XaypdOr or ('oliiinlila t'ove and Wed Point at the western point, and t'looiiwk at Um head, or north. 262 EXPLORING AND COMMERCIAL EXPEDITIONS. up the outor coast, into Dixon Entrance, and l)ack to Capo Scott; then up the strait to the same latitude as before, and hack, the wliole amounting to a douhle circunmavigation of Queen Charlotte Islands, with ;m examination of the mainland coast. Names from the log are ap[)ended.'"' *'■> /inmrcir.s Ln', long. 127' 24'; lOth- I'Jtii, still in sight of Nootka and AhaUett Sound [Esperanza Inlet; a chart is given of tho two sounds and couuectmg passages, which I reproduce] ; 13th, iclKltu Core Haswell's Map of Nootka, 1792. 50° IC; Woody Point, five leagues s. e. ; Port Lincoln, a largo sound with good harbors, in ")()" 2(i', long. 128° 30' [Quatsino Sound?]; 14th, 50° 40', .six le;ii;nos s. of ontwardmost island otf ('. Iniira/iam [Cape Scott]; 17tli, Washington Island and Cdjie Jlaxwill [CiipG St James], 52" 10'; Jiarrel Sound; 18th, 5;i .">'; Todxcondoltli tribe, subject to Cumnualt, on the strait dividing tho Lshind; another strait where the coast turns w., in about 53' 20' [Skiddegate Clianucl] ; l!)th, near Tmlcnln village [Cloak IJay and Cox Channel?] ; 21st, round the x. w. point of the island ; 23d, Shoal Inlet, or Neden, lat. 54" D', long. 132° 4.5', seven- teen leagues E. of 'I'adents; 0. Coolkije, seventeen leagues \v. s. w., in 54' 1.")', long. 134' 13' [?] ; C. Lookout, eighteen leagues E. n. e. [Cape Chacon on x. side of strait?] ; 24th, Jlancock Itiver, .'34° 5', long. 132° 18' [chief, Cottar; a chart is given, with names J/allhut Mend, Sand Point, and Mah.fhoet [Virago or Maza- I'odo Sound, or Masset Harbor, on n. side of the island] ; Lejonee is iu this GRAY TELLS VANCOUVER. 203 The two vessels sailed together from Xaspatee on June 24th, bound for the north; but two days later, when they had entered the great strait and were just above 52^, opposite Loblip Sound, the Colmuhia struck a rock and was considerably tUunaged. They went on, however, for Derby Sound, but l(jst each otlier on the 29th. The Jhlrenture went on and waited at Derby Sound for her consort, Haswcll fearing that she had sunk. Then she continued her trip through Dixon Strait and up the Alaskan coast to about 57°, in the region of the modern Sitka. Has- well touched at many of the j)laces visited in the former trips; obtained only seventy-five skins; met six otlier trading- vessels at difl'erent jjoints; and re- turning down the outer coast met Gray on the 3d of Se})tember at Port ^lontgomery, on the south-western shore of (^ueen Charlotte Island. Meanwhile the Colauihia, her leak increasing after the parting, had returned to Naspatee and attempted some repairs, with the aid of Captain Magee; then she went to Clayoquot and soon to Nootka. Here the Si)an- iards rendered every possible assistance and cour- tesy,^ and when his ship was again in condition (ii'ay sailed for the north to meet Haswell, as just related. Both sailed on the 13tli of September and reached Nootka seven days later. Here they met Vancouver region ; 28th-29th, past shoaloff C. Lookout; Spa-liou PocH .">4' .%', long. 1 .*J0°.55'; Cape Lookout w. by n. ; gales; Adams St nut near; SOtli, wind and haze al)oiit the shoal; !May lst-'2d,otl'Tadents; chief, 2' '25' [on w. siile of tlie islan Corr ; SOtli, Dowjkis Island, 54' 42'; .31»t, C. Lookout K. s. K. aiid Murdirtrs' <'upe x. i w. ; June 1st, 54" 27'; passed Murderers' Cape ; 2d, Port Tci.ijic-t and Caswell's grave; 7tli, Brown Sound; 8th-9th, coasted down to 5.T 15'; 1 1th, Barron IIUl Bay, 52° 59'; 15th, past Ingrnham Cape ami islands to Woody I'oint; 17th, met Gray, just out of Pintanf Sound; arrived .;t Xa.iji"l/i'. Ml j,\,j. ^vhieh, however. Gray and Ingrahaui fui-nislxed some valuable testi- mony, on events of 1789, iu their letter of August 3d. 2G4 EXrLORTXG A^^) COMMERCIAL EXPEPIT[OXS, aq'.-iin, and <]fuvo him an account of tlicir h- tained I'ew skins. In July ho was with (iray, for wliom he bi'()U_L;'ht letters, at Xas]>atee; and he is last heard of at Xootka late in Septeniher.''* li. J). C'oolidfj^e, perhaps the same man wIkj had been mate of the //'/fVy Washiinjtun in 1780, now connnanded the droxc of New York, lie came from China, and was in company with Haswell in the north in AuLjust.'"' C'a[)tains lloj^ers, Adamson, JJarnett, and Douglas were reported in July by the northern nati\es to be on the roast, but nothing fui'ther is known of them.'"'" William IJrown commanded the JJitffcrirorf//, ;\n Yav^- lish irader." The English bi'ig T/iree JJiot/icrs was eMiumanded by Lieutenant Alder of the navy. 'J'ho schooner Prince WlUkuti Ilennj, Ewen, tVom London, and the brig Ilalci/on, Barclay, from Bengal, arc named in Vancouver's list. He also names the Boston vessels Lad 1/ ]V( (sh i )}(jton ,J\.vn(\vic\i ; I la u cock, Crow cW; and Jefferson, Koberts; the iirst two were on the coast in 171) I, and i^erhaps again this year, though I hnd no other evidence. The English sloop Prince Le lion, Sharj) master, is mentioned as having been at Xootka."^ The cutter Jackn/, of London, Ca})tain Stewart, was on the northern coast in August, and at Xootka in September.'^" The brig Jennij, Captain James Baker, came fi'om Bristol, bringing two Sand- wich Island women to Xootka, and arriving on the 7th of October; sailing later for England, she was '•'^IfasHrlPa Lof), MS., 54-0, 8(i, f)l; SniU y Mfr'icnna, Vkuje, llrt. Green- how, (Jr. (iml C'al., 22(5, siiys tluit the MuKjnnf was from Now York, ami imi)lics that she made a trip iu 17!'0-1, uhieh seem:* im|)ossihlo. ■'■' I/asircirn Lo(/, MS., S;j-4. Vaiicouvur, I'oi/., iii. 4'J8, names Costiilge ud master of a hi'ig. ■"'Ifcuiirdl's Lorj, MS., 74-5. ''" Ureciihow, <>r. niul Cal., "223, names "Brown as one of the most cnter- pri-iingof the English traders, to whom Vaneouver was indelited lor useful iufoi'mation. In Siilil y Mrxicnia, li'inf, lUi, tiie IliilU'rirnrth i.s descrihod as an Ihiglish frigate of .'{() guns that brought despatches to Vancouver. '^' Vtnu-'iHVd'ii Voy., iii. 498; SkI'iI y Mex'icuna, Ikv/e, 110. The latter nmkes it the Prince Lou, Captaui Spar. '''■'IlusweU's Loij, MS., 83, 01; Vuitcouver's Voy., iii. 498. 200 KXPLORING AND COMMERCIAL EXPEDITTOXS. found by Broui^liton on XovcuiIkt Gih anchored in the CoKnnbia River."" The Venus, Sliepherd eoni- niander, iVoni Bent^al, was met by Vancouver in the I'hannel north <^f Queen Chailotte Sound on AuL,aist ITtli; she liad touched at Nootka.*'' The F/on'mfd, Tliomas Cole connnander, 'the most miserable thiiiLjf that ever was formed in imitation of tl»e Ark,' lel't Macao in Marcli, arrived on tlie coast in July, and was met next day at Tadents by Ilanvell, wlio found her overi'un by natives, who but for his arrival would soon have made her a prize."^ The Portuucuese Felice Arentiirero, formerly Meares' vessel, came back this year under Francisco Viana; she left ^facao in ]May, lost part of her crew at Prince William Sound, touched later at Queen Charlotte Island, and thenco came down to Nootka before Septendjcr/'^ A Captain Mear, possibly the illustrious John Meares, coni- mandin<^ an unnamed snow from Beni^al, was met in Dixon Strait in July/'* Another Portuf^uesc trader was the Fenix, Captain Jose Andres '^i'obar, or as Vancouver says, the Fenis and St Joseph, Captain John do Parros Andrcde; she was on the island coast in Auijust, at Nuiiez Gaona in Septcml)er, and sailed for China from Nootka. on the last of Sei>tem- ber. Her supercargo was j\Ir Duffin, formerly of the Aiyonaut, and she carried to China*'^ one of Van- couver's officers with despatches. Finally I have to mention a French vessel, whose business is not clearly explained; this was the Flavia, of about five hun- dred tons, commanded by M. Magon, Dupacy second ''" Vain-omrr'ii Vo'i., i. 41">; ii. 72; iii. 408. .'Jray, Hht. Or., 14, speaks of tlio JcHiHt, Captain Jakcr, IVoiii Ihistol, ' Rhode Islainl.' ''^ I'aiK'diirvr's I'l •, i. H'o; iii. 408. 'Cliepeus' is ilio captain's name in Sulil !/ J/< .ricuiia, ijc, 110. ''•J/nxiir/ri^ Lo'i, S., 70. '^Siiti/ !/ Mciira. Vinije, ll.VlO; ITanircir^ Lo;!, ]SIS., 74-80. He says Viana was iirst mate, 'gon, a Freiielinuin, being captain. Vancouver, To//., iii. 498, calls Viana's ip the Ij>/ii'j<'ii!ii. "* J/., SO. Mear had conic from Ala.ska, and had nut Viana's vessel in ilis ess. Pei'haps Mear was Vancouver's (iii. 498) ^loor, commanding a sno^v f m Cantim. '■5 yaiiroiirir'n Jo//., i. 40:?, 40(V10; iii. 408; I/ns-irrirs Loi/,^lS., 83-4,91. Gray Jiiet the Fenix at the Sandwich Islands in October, RPAXISII VOYAGES. to luii- )ihI Iks of li(3 ill [says 'oy., met llijor, , 01. captain, and Toivklcr suj)L'ri'argo; slio ari'ivcd at Xootka on the 'JOtli of ^tay, her mission huinL,^ as was ri'presonted, to liuy I'lU's for the Asiatic inai'kct and to sot'k news of the oxpeditio!! of IjH iV-rousc.'^ Moc^tiiiLj llaswtH on the north end of Qurcn Char- lotto Island in Auj^nist, Maj^nm repn^sented his vosscl as hound from L'CJriont Sound to Kaniclmtka with sup]>lies, intendin«4' to toneh at Unalaska. Tho supur- cari^o was n Russian; fi-(jm him the Americans re- ceived a very welcome gift of li(|Uors.'" It was deemed essential to Spani.sh interests, for reasons to he more ^ully noticed later, to comjdete as spi'cdily as possihlo the exploration hcgun hy Fidalgo, Quimpur, and Elisa in 1 7'.) I. Accordingly two expe- ditions were despatched early in 1792. The transport Aranzazu, under the conunand of Lieutenant Jacinto Caamano, carrying su])plies for California as wull as Nootka, sailed I'roni Sau Bias the 20th of March, and arrived at Xootka the 14tli of Maj'. Her California cargo was transferred to the Conci'p- cloii, which had l)cen in the north for two years, and which under 3'^lisa's command touched at Mon- teix'V the 9th of July on her way to San Blas.*^ Caamano had instructions to explore the coast up to Port Bucaroli, and to search for Finite Strait; he started on his trip the loth of June, arrived at Bucareli on the 25th,'"* and after a survey of that northern port he anchored on July 20th at tlie entrance of J^ixon Strait, wliich he very properly named Entrada de Perez. From this time until the end of August was made the first ofticial exploration of the northern end of Queen Charlotte Island, and of '" ' Estc puntc nos parociij imiy secumlario rcspecto fi la derrota que haljia cnipreiidiilo.' Siilll ij Mixlmnn, \'ia'j<\ '20. '■' Jltt-sH-iU's Ly Caamailo .June 20tli, at I'Drt Bucareli. He was tlieu seeking news of La lVruu.se. L'aumaiio, £xj,"l.. .S2(). '■'l/isf. Caf., i., cha^. xxiv., this series. "'■•/.Vr/V/.f (;;,,>,/o, Ii'/oniifi 1..' de Ahi-il 179,1 144. The other authorities are hopelessly coufusetl respecting these two dates. 208 EXPLorjxG AXD co:m:merci.vl expeditions. the cistern coaf^t of the strait dividing that island from tlie main. The Aranzazu was too large and un- Avieldy ibr such work, and the weather was not favor- al)le; yet the survey was a tolerably coni})lete one. Several of Caamailo's names have been retained; and iVom liis cliarts Vancouver derived much of his })ub- lished information about these i-egions.'" A copy of liis chart on a small scale is appended. On a chart that had l)een obtained from Colnctt, Fonte Strait v.as located just above 5:3°, at the entrance between Y\hat are now Pitt and Princess Po^-al Islands; but thongli Caamano did not reach the head of tho^^e cliannels, he was certain from the tides that the}' fur- nished no iuteroceanic passage, and ho changed the name from Fonte to i\Ionin(). Intercourse with tlie nativ '. is somewhat minutelv described, but the onlv noticeable adventure was the capture, by treacher}', of '"Ciiamnfio's exploration 13 sliown on a small scale on map Xo. .T, in Sufihj Ifr.v/cdiKi, \"kii/i', atlas. The followiiii; is a j^'eograpliical .summary of tlio voyage in the i^tiait: July "JOtli, I'urt Fliiriilahlauca [Cloak Bay], .">i' -ii', on tlu! north end of t^lueen Charlotte It^lanil, and south of Litii'jara Ixlaml [N'orth Is'andJ; an aneliorage east of tlio island seems to he called Ncrar o; 'J.'id- 2kli, on the northern or Alaskan coast of the strait; '2r)th, haek to tlio isl;ind; from I't fiirinihlr region sighted porta JJiitrmla and Mn-.arri 'In [all three names on Vaneouver's maj), called on sonic modem maps Massct Spit, !Ma iset llaibor, and Virago Sound; one of the latter was IIas\veU"s llanrock KivcrJ; '28t!i, in the archipelago of Oiicc Mil l'inii'iip<, on map I'ort AVic- vcm and Alia Island, s. nn(l x. of the archiiielago; also I'ort (Juini/nr; SOtli, entered the ('final del Prhic'nic [still so calletlj, between the islands ot ('(il(ij)ii-l(iil [Hanks] and J-^nri'/mz [I'itt]; past bay of Ooro.tt^za and Point Kniiui'iD |a port of Caiian rueen Charlotte Island, was followed eighteen leagues, and called - or the anchova'^e at its numth — port ClaMnn [(Irenville Channel |, with island (S'rr/( Miijuit [Farrant Island?] and brazo de Mnlihnado, on maps island Suii J.'n'rriiii [still so called; the island of (HI, k. of Coinpania Iskiud, on Vau- eonvcr's map, and still so called, was doubtless named by< "aamauo|; 7th-I -tli, further explorations; i;Uh-'2!)th, detained by bad weather; 3i»tli, through the I.arcilo channel, between Ari^l'r.dhal Island and the coast [nanus still r 'tained], the soutln'iii point of the island being called Sania (r'ilri''lis: .'iUt, J'd'tiif l'( n/i(ti.:ni, on maji boeas de ( 'icinija; September Ist, San Juaqttiii Island [Scott Island]; 2d, Brooks Bay; 7th, Xootka. ]SI ALDOXA DO'S OBSIT. V ATIOXS. 2G9 I itr- \l" I'! XUi'i lint lit ill tniit iiii.l Iv "f tlu; 1 tlio [hoy iiul two Bailors. They were rescued and restored l)y a I'aeliou of the Indians who would not consent to such an act in return for kind treatment by the Spaniards. In addition to the narrative, and to ^geographical de- scriptions, there were added to the diary sonic obser- cU aoo C.du S.Bn .gi« ►•< ' "^ -^'^'-^vso ^ ,1.1, Canal Jelieilllayii/edo •.vs; \ l^cl ^f;\WiAi I'l: I'Kui:/. ■:\.:z,,i}'u K, C.a/Margai;'.!"^ / - -^>'^ X 6, I OE ALVA yq.^ :>„ LOi ONCE MIL vinoENES P.Narvaez 'V, ^ rS-v IV'Al^E OA^l^aO, DE LACALAMIDAD sn.e;.ts:v«n\!^. ' j .'; A.iiSTJZAQALAVX,.^- o • JOCAS [)t. [• CIENiO^ CAAilASo'H Mai', 17'.'-. rations of animals and plants, by Jose IMaldonado. Emerging from the strait south of the great islands, Caan)ano anchored on the 7th of Se[)tember at Nootka, and ivnuiined tliere in t('m])orary conunand of the garribon until Tidalgo's arrival, sailing the od 870 EXPLORIXG AKD COMMERCIAL EXPEDITIONS. of October, touching at Monterey on the 22(1 of October, and arriving at San Bias Feburary G, 1793.''^ Viceroy Rcvilla Gigedo had already made prepara- tions for an expedition under Lieutenant Maurelle to complete the exploration of Fuca Strait when Malas- pina, returning from the north, proposed to make the new enterprise a branch of his own, furnishing officers and instruments. This proposal was accepted, and two schooners were transferred to Acapulco for outfit. They were the Sutil and Mexlcana, com- manded by Dionisio Galiano and Cayetano Valdes, with Secundino Salamanca and Juan Vernaci as lieutenants, Joseph Cordero as draughtsman, and a crew of seventeen men to each schooner. Thoy sailed from Acapulco on March 8th, and arrived at Nootka on the 12th of May, two days before Caa- inano. It was the 4th of June when they started for the strait, which they entered next day and anchored at Nuiiez Gaona, or Neah Bay. The survey of the inland waters up to the Tejada Island, or rather re- survey, for all this region had been explored by Quimper and Elisa, lasted until the 26th. On the l;3th the Spaniards first met a boat from one of the English vessels, and on the 21st Galiano and Van- couver met personally, showing to each other their charts of previous discoveries, and agreeing to carry on subsequent explorations in company. They worked together amicably until the 12th of July in the chan- nels about Desolation Sound; but Vancouver, while freely giving the Spaniards the benefit of his own labors, would not accept the results of their survey '^Caamnno, F.rpfdirion de la rorhcta Araiizazu al vmmlo •(/ rcronocer el Extrcr/io de Fuca; con una introduce ion, etc., Muilrid, 1S02; Svo, with small folio atlas. The atlas contains a general map of the vluilc coast, from liaja California to Alaska, in three sheets, tlie nortlicni sheet sliowinj; the explorations of earlier Spanisli voyagers; also, sheet No. 7, jiresintlng a plan of Cala De Amigos [Friendly Cove], at NootUa; No. 10, view (if a Xootka festival ; Xo. 11, view of Frienilly Cove ii nil Spanish fort; also jwrtraits of the chiefs Maijuinna and Tetacu, with Maria, wife of the latter. See also Hist. CaL, i., chap, xxiv., this series. '■' Several of Elisa's names arc omitted on (ialiano's map, but the additions are few. I'unta de Santa Saturnina becomes Island de Satiirna |as it has le- niained, proViably a typographical error, on the later ma])]. The islands of Cepeda and Liingara become points on a peninstda, north of which is fonnd the entrance to the Cannl de Florida lilanca, while tiie place of the southern entrance is taken by Fnsenada del Emidi'm. Seno de (liLtlun is a new name for the hay above Point Socorro ; and I'unta de Loera l)eoom(.'s Fnsenada de Loera. 'I'he Punta and Laguna del Garzon become an 'ensenada'of the same name. The 'bocas' of tiie Florida lUanca, Carmelo, and Monino, l)eing ex]ilored to their heads, become 'brazos'; and tlie name of the last is changed to Maytr- nilo. Poliel [an error] is clianged to Purlitr, and Cula de JA.scanfu is added to the boca de Wentuhuysen. "The map is No. '2 of the original atlas, and is also found on a larger scale in Ii(2ili/ of the United Stales. To the land north of the SuUda are given, ou 272 EXPLORING AXD COMMERCIAL EXPEDITIONS. Iill ) NUTKA iU ^ J I3LA DE PuntaC, ^//;-*'' Ju .Vi^cmsK ., • \ M.d&jJ Tluplananulg zv.Uc. ^-^^ {(iUJ.qUllUUUZ ^; A5:l'/J.J.If,inJ..;>.,-. ^C Runta.ria~"^eballo9 Cabo do Rdmolin'^^'^^fX^\''''-«;.oJ: .^ ^ Runta da fi Punta da MagalUnas'^^^' '•^'"V>l/~ Jitintanaiite 'iia ISLA DC CCNCH.\,--^ /^ ISLA( ^ lupl*'-' *" 1:50-1 1; Itlic I'ur- of Fnca, as had boon reported — a statement that caused much satisfaction, since it left a grand Held for discovery open to himself, as he incorrectly su])j)OS('(l. He also learned from Gray that the latter had found a irreat river in the south; hut this did not trouble hiiu, because Gray had been miable to enter it by reason of the currents, and because "I was thoroughly convinced, as were also most persons of observation on board, that we could not possibly have passed any safe navigable opening, harbour, or place of security for shipping on this coast, from Cape Mendocino to the promontory of Classett; nor had we any reason to alter our opinions, notwithstanding that theoretical geographers have thought proper to assert, in that s[)aee, the existence of arms of the ocean. . .and ex- tensive rivers." This record of failure to find the Columbia River was repeated ad nauseam (Brltanui- cam) by American writers in later controversies, and this chapter would perhaps be regarded as incomplete without it: ]Cnteiing the strait the last day of April, they f »1- lowed the southern shore to Port Discovery, which became a station for refitting and for explorations in the surroundinij reijion." From this station A"an- couver, Menzies, Puget, and Johnstone set out on the 7tli of May in yawl, launch, and cutter. In this and subsequent trips, lasting about a month, the wholo south-eastern extension of the inland sea was discov- ered, fully explored, and named, as shown by the annexed copy of Vancouver's map."" The record of adventures and observations, though full of interest ''' Xiw DiiniienrK.i, a sandy iioiiit rcscmljling Duncjeuess in the EnTliab Chan- nel ((i>uinipcr's I'oint Santa Cruz), and Mount /iaLxr in the far distance, dis- cDVun.'d l)y Lieutenant IJaker, wore the only new nuniea applied west of Vmt lijscovery; and //Of Anodes was the only Spanish name put Lterou Van- couver's map of tlio soutliem shore. '■■^The map also shows, besides Vancouver's southern discovcriea of A<1- vih-dlli/ fnlcf, IJoo'l C'diifil, and Puijit Snuiiit, the northern pai'ts cxphired before by VAisa, and Quimper. Sec map already given. Mount Jlnhiii-r, beyonil tlic limits of my copy, was so named for Rear-adniiml Rainier of the l>ritisU navy. Other names used in Vancouver's text, but not appearing on the map, ;iie Marruw-Htone Point, Ouk Cove, Fouhcc.athKr lllnjf', llazd Point, liestoiu- dun Putiit, and t'uprtss laland. 270 EXPLORING AND COMMERCIAL EXPEDITIONS. t, I !l I ■^-2=, /^^, eUtnijham ■m Vancouvek's Map, 1792. THE EXGLISH NAVIGATORS. 277 in its details, cannot of course be reproduced here, even en resume. On the king's birthday, the 4th of June, at Possession Sound, formal possession was taken in the name of his Britannic majesty of all the countries round about these inland waters, includinrthwest Coast and Alaska. The *'^Pohi( Brown, Point Hnnmii, and Point New -were the names applied. A chart; i.s given in connection with tiie general map. "■■■'J'hc survey histed from the iJlst ot C)ctol)er to the 10th of November. The names yiven were as follows: ]5akcr Bay, C'henoke Point, S])it ISiiiik, Tiingiie I'liint, Point George, Voting River, tlray Uay, OrcJiavd Rixm-, Paget Island, Manby River, Swaine River, Raker Island, Point SKeiiiK, Walker Island, Mount CoiHn, River Poole, Knight Rivei-, Urry Island, Oak Puiut, ]'"int Warrior, Ruslileigh River, Call River, Manning Rivci', l!eUe Vuc Point, Meuzie Island, Ikiring Island, Johnstone Island, Point N'ancouver (the eastern pi>liit ■'>, in /he 'Discoveriy slooji of irar, and unneil tender ' t'huthdm,' under the cntnmainl of ('aj)tuin (ieorije ]'ancuurer, London, 17!tS; 4to, 3 vols, and folio atla.s; also, Lon vols. ; rayifoHiv/-, Voi/UDedc i)Minrertlas. Elisa in the Conccpo'on left Nootka in June, anivino- at Monterey the Dtli of July, while Cuadra Monis to have acted as connnander of the j^arrisou (luriuiit up to Monterey from San Bias by the S((fiiniiH((.^'' ^T'vans, Jfltit. Or., MS., G7, tells us that pieces of masonry arc still found i.; 'I'.'ili J5ay. ^'' l!< Villa Gtijeilo, Iiiforini', VM\-Q\ Stiitil y Mc.rkmm, Vlniji, Ki, 'JO, 103, ll.T; Hist, ('ul., i., chap, xxiv., thiti iicrica; Jjiuwdl'n \'o>,'. Mi,, 6(> 7, 'J-; Vun- roiivi r's \'oi/., i. 408-10. CHAPTEK IX. ll V END OF CONTROVERSY AND EXPLORATION. 179*2-1800. The Policy of Spaix — Delay for Exploration — Thf. Viceroy's Ideas — IXSTRrCTIOXS TO THE COMMISSIOXER — CpADRA'S INVESTIGATIONS^ Vancouver's Mission — The CojniissioxERS at Nootka — Enclish Cl.\ims — Spanish Offers — Aoreeaient to Disagree — Convention- uf 1793 — Damages Paid — Revilla-Gigedo's Report — Vancouver's Sec- ond Voyage — The Garrison — Saavedra Succeeds Fidalgo — The Trading Fleet of 1793 — Cuadra Succeeded by Alvva — Trip of the 'AuANZ.\zu' to Californlv — Captain John Kendkick— Vancouver's Third Vovaije — Traders of 1794 — Treaty of 1794— The Controversy Ended — Alava and Pierce — Final Abandonment of Nootka in' March 1795— The Title — The 'Ph(ENIx' of 1795 — Brougieton's Visit — Dorr, the Yankee Trader of 179G — Rowan and the 'Elisa' OF 179£ — Cleveland's Cruise — The 'Betsy' of ISOO. Spain had in a sense been forced by England to reliiKiuisli her exckisive claims to territory in the north-west, or at least she had not deemed herself in condition to tight for what appeared likely to pnjve a mere matter of pride; for as wc have seen, Spain had no desire for northern possessions except as a means of protection for those in the f outh. If there was no interoceanic passfsge, then a broad frontier without good ports was all that was desirable; consequently an accurate knowledge of the coast was of the iirst importance, and wc have seen with what unusual energy the exploration was })ushed forward in 17U0 "J by the successive expeditions of Fidalgo, Quim[)ev, Elisa, Malaspina, Caamailo, and Galiano. Should the strait be found, then Spain had an equal chance with England to occupy the necessary points; and as for (284) JUAN FRANCISCO DE LA BODEGA Y CUADRA. 283 exclusive control, there was yet room for clii»lomacy, ami always for war as a last resort. IMeaiiwhile delay was essential and by no means difficult. By the spirit of the Nootka convention the whole coast above San Francisco, or at least above Cape ]\Iendocino, for there was an equitable right to a broad unoccu})ied frontier, was open for trade and settlement equally to Spain and England, each having also free access to the set- tlements of the other, though literally the limit fixed was neither San Francisco nor Mendocino, but the " parts of the coast already occupied by Spain," which might very jJausibly be interpreted to mean Nootka; and so the Spanish government decided to inter|)ret it, at least as a basis for future negotiations. It is not unlikely that many Spanish officials, and even the viceroy of Mexico, may have taken this view of the matter in good faith. ]:>v royal orders of December 1790 tlie carrying- out of the Nootka convention, so far as the restora- tion of property and the fixing of boundaries were concerned, was committed as a matter of foi'm to the viceroy, with a recommendation that Juan Fran- cisco de la Bodega y Cuadra should be the Spanish connniss^ioner, and that the boundary between the ex- clusive possessions of Spain in the south and the territory free to both powers in the north should bo lived at 48^, Nootka being divided between the two.^ i 'uadra was accordingly a})pointed and summoned to .\[<'xico to receive instructic^ns early in 1791. Quim- ] ' r's late explorations luul, however, furnished a more defi I'te idea of the northern strait than the Spaniards iiud before possessed, and Kovilla (ligedo took the lil>erty to introduce some changes in ih:^ royal reconi- ' 'Quo los inglcses ocupasen en Nootka los tcrritorios simados nl Norte, y iicisoti'ds liiH do la parte del Siir, lijiliidoHo en los 48 grados dc latitiid la liiiea divisoria de los cstableciniiontos de nucHtra legitima iK-rteiioncia. y de las ciiiiuinos para lu reciprocidad, uso y coniercio do unihas iiaciones. ' iJy Nootkik i-i iiii'Miit, I suppose, the region extending north and soutii from the (sound. ]5y tills iirrangemcnt eaeh nation would have an cstahlislnnent f)n Xootka Sound fi'trof aocess to vessels of the other, but the English could not trade or settle lie low ■in'. mii r.SD OF CONTROVERSY AST) EXPLORATION. mcndations; ho bolievod it would bo best to givo up Nootka altogether, and to make the strait of Fuca the dividing line, transtbrring the Spanish establish- ment to a convenient site on that strait. Cuadra Ava.s instructed accordingly, and the purport of his instruc- tions was made known to the home government.^ The viceroy took a deep interest in the matter, and made the fullest possible investigation respecting the occur- rences of 1789, closely examining all available witnesses on the points mentioned in Mcares' memorial, and communicating the results of his investigation both to Cuach'a and to the government. He was satisfied that, as 'b^ English had been dispossessed of no lands or buildi, ; Nootka, nothing was to be re!?tored, according t< '■ first article of the convention, and he flattered himself that the English would be theretbre tlie more ready to obtain the port of Nootka by ac- ceding to the terms proposed. Fully acquainted with the facts of the case and with the viceroy's views, Cuadra sailed for Nootka in March 1792, and at the same time Eidalgo was sent to found a settlement at Nunez (iaona, within the strait.^ At Nootka, while waiting for the English commissioner, Cuadra was able to make some further investigations about the controversy of 1789, and was so fortunate as to meet captains Cray, Ingraham, and Viana, who testilied in writing that British subjects had not been dispos- sessed of any lands or houses whatever, thus fully con- firming his own previous conclusions and those of his superior officer.* In his instructions of the 8th of March 1791 Cap- '•Tn .1 report of the '27tli of Marcli 1791. A reply in a roj\'il order of tlio 20th of June postponed a ilelinito decision on the changes, but led the viceroy to infer tlmt they •would bo appvoveil. Revilhi-Gigedo also favored a north and Houth line from some point on the strait up to (JO', to kccj) the iMiglisii from ])enetrating tlio interior and reaching New Mexico, but it is not clear that Cuadra's insti'uctions included this feature. "A clear though brief account of these matters is given in Tivv'ilhi-O'nicih), Iiifiivme, 1 .'!;$ et seq. , with reference to much original corrcspoudcnco that is not acccssil)le. ■* (//■((// ,o.m\ llfiHiiuU'.t Loij. ^,1S., {(!); alsi) an account l)y Howell, sniicrcavgo of the Marnurct, M'htj acleil aa translator, (juotcil from Iii(iraham'K Jiniriiul l)y Grccnliow, Of. uml Cy the Satnr- ■niiia, fearing it might bo too late, but it found Cuadra in ( 'alifornia, and was sent at once to Fidalgo at Nootka by the Ilrnvasitci^, which returned in time to accom- pany the Actlca southward early the next year. No details have ever been published of European negotiations on the Nootlca question after the sign- ing of the convention of 1790, but something is Iniown of final rosrilts. ])on Manuel de las lleras and Mr Rudolph Woodford were the commissioners ajipointed to dotormino the amount to be paid Britisli subjects as a comjxnisation for their losses caused by the seizure of tlicir vessels in 1789. The connnissioncrs agree>l upon the sum of two hundred and ten thousand dollars in coin in full payment of all claims, and a convention to that effect was signed at Whitehall on Eeljruary 12, 1793; it was ratified the same day by the British monarch, and presumably the money was paid without delay, greatly to the satisfaction of Moares and liis associates, Vv'ho if they ijot half the amount named, though their oriinnal claim" had been six hundred and fifty thousand dollars, had every reason to be conten c." SL'uvc, causing nocdlcsu (li.ljij's anfl great losses. In his flosiro to prevent :\. I'ujiturc, Ciiailrainay liavof;i>no Ipcyoiul lii.si)laiii iu'^truetioiH aii nji- poiient ^ was not one of Vancouver's characteiistics. lUistani.'.nte, Sini'i iii-iil'*, ItiJ, tells iistliat 1). Mariano Mozifio, wlioaomnnpanied the Spani.4i e\p' ditien a ; liotaaist, wrott; an ' histoiia dc ella do una manera iliyua de leerse,' not pal)- Hilled. ''The Spani.sli text of the convention of February 12, ll'M, is given iu Cairo, fticiu'il (!'■ Trf> !!''■■<, iii. o!J4-."). IIisT. N. W. CoAsr, Vol. I. 13 !., 2 200 EXD OF COXTROVERSY AXD EXPLORATION. It was on April 12, 1793, that Viceroy Ilovilla Qhfcdo dated the rei)ort which I have so oftoii cited. It is by far the best suiinnary extant of all the trans- actions pertaining to the Spanish occupation of the Northwest Coast. The author presents at the end his conclusions respecting the policy that S[)ain sliould follow in the future. The late explorations were, in his ()])inion, very nearly conclusive as to the non-existence of any interoceanic strait; yet the coast from Fuca south to San Francisco, and especially the Entrada do Hoceta, or Columbia liiver, required a closer exami- nation tlian had yet been made, and he had already taken steps to organize an expedition for that purpose. It was evident that British subjects desired to form establishments on the northern coasts, ostensibly for the profits of the fur-trade, but really, as he believed, with a view to interference with the Spanisli control of the Pacific and to the profits of illicit trade with Spanish settlements. He did not think the fur-trade would long continue to yield extraordinary proiits; and while it might be well to encourage Spanisli traders to enter the field as rivals of the ]"]nglish, Americans, and Portuguese, he did not favor the for- mation of any such great company enjo^'ing govern- ment support and exclusive privileges as had been recommended by Martinez and others. Neither did he deem it desirable or possible, by reason of the im- niense expense involved, to take and keep actual pos- session of the northern coasts merely to prevent such occupation by foreigners. What sliould be done i;i that direction was to strengthen the Californian ])re- sidios, and to occupj'- the port of Bodega, for whicli orders had already been issued.'' If another })ort should be found above Bodega it might be necessary to occupy that also; moreover, if the Columbia Biver should be found to aftord either the long sought pas- sage to the Atlantic, or even access to the province ■ For what was done in this direction, see Iliif!. Cal., i., chap, xxiv., this scries. riDALGO AT NOOTKA. 201 of New ^Mexico, that stream would of course have to 1)0 fortified by Spain, wliieh could 1)e most advan- tageously ctiected probably by a land i'oi'oc IVom Xew ]\[cxico, acting in concert with a maritime expodilion. If, as was most likel}', there was a long harborless coast above Bodega, the Californian posts alone would call for attention, and would furnish the best and only available safeguard against English or Russian encroachments. As to Nootka, the viceroy says: " I am, then, of opinion that we should cede to the English wholly and gencrousl}'' our establishment of N(wtka, since, so far as the way of thinking of the Enu'lisli commander Vancouver and his emissarv l)rouLrhton could be ascertained, it seems that thev desire and aspire to wave the British flag over that port without recognizing that of Spain, moved rather by the idea or vainglory of sustaining what by reason of opposition they liave made a [)oint of honor than by motives of interest or advantages which are truly prc^blematic in connection with the fur-trade."** Vancouver's vessels came back from the Hawaiian Islands in the spring of 1793; the Cliatluim, \\o\x commanded b\' Puget, after having s})cnt a week in Port Buenri Esperanza, anchored at Xootka on tho 15th of April, remaining there a month for repairs, and then departing for a cruise of exploration on the northern coast. Vancouver in the Discoccri/ sighted Cape Mendocino on April 2C)th, ancliored at Trinidad from May 2d to the 5th, and then ])rocee(led up the coast. He arrived at Xootka on the 20lh of ^lay, being received, as Puget had been before him, with every courtesy by Connnander Fidalgo. The San CdHos was at anchor there, and had brought letters from Cuadra and the vicerov; but there were as \vt no despatches from Euro])e, and Vancouver started for the north after a stay of only three days, joining ^JRevilla Gi'ji'do, fn/orme 12 < l-:„::,..ukr;l i:.H.-\l.urS-^ ( ^> ri< ^^.i%"^ jV;fe,„,,u,uJ ''', '"-^^^iim^ K %^ '. .. , . X~"> n V-: e ""-0.-1 I l'\ \ \„<.^ .Vv, " ''7/ I iH.iU|.iw-,v-5 \ M , "Cuii. .Sl.,lllH,.-; Vancouver's Mat, 1793. laid down from Caamaho's chart. The country from (iardner Canal, in 53° 30', up to ."7" was named New- Cornwall, while that extending southward to NeVv- Georuia, at about 50' 30', was called New IIano\ei-, formal jiossession being taken of course ni the name of the British king. On the 20th of September he turned southward, passing along the outer side of Queen Ciiarlotte Island, and anchoring at NootI;a on the 5th of October. No despatches from Mexico or Europe had arrived since his departure, and after a stay of three days ho again put to sea for Caliiornia, DECLINE OF INTEREST. 203 (> liis fancied wronj^s in wliich country liavc been do- .sci'ibed in another volume." Xo other narrative or log of a voyage on the jiorthern coast in 1793 is known to be extant; and therefore all that is known, which is very little, about the movements of other vessels, and Nootka events generally, comes from Vancouver's journal. Fidah and his men of the garrison had passed a most dreary winter, confined within doors by almost incessant rains, and shaken by a violent earthquake on the 17th of February; yet "notwithstanding the badness of the season, ho had found means to erect a small fort (111 Hog Island that mounted eleven nine ])ounders, and added greatly to the respectability of the es- tablishment." In ^lay tlie San Cdrlos arrived from San 131as under Alferez Ramon Saavedra, the vessel to replace the Princcsa at the Nootka station, and Saavedra to succeed Fidalgo in the connnand. The latter sailed soon for the south, and touched at San Francisco on his way to San Bias the 2 1st of June.^'* Exceedingly meagre is our information respecting the trading fleet of tliis and the following years. The era of exploration and diplomacy on the North- west Coast had, in a sense, passed away; there were no longer international :es and discoveries. The fur-traders had the tield to them- selves, and for the most part tliey have left no record. The Buttenrorth, Prince Le Boo, and Jackal — two of which vessels had been on the coast the yeov ^ndore, all belouixinsf to the same Fnuflish hous. , r.id all und(?r the general command of Captain Brown — were met by Vancouver in Chatham Sound in June; and Brown's name was given to the passage leading into Ta«ro«m-'s T'o?/., ii. 238-4.^.3. ^'^Arch. Cat., MS., Prov. St. Pap., xxi. 101; Vancouvcr'n Voy.,n. 2o2-4. '::o4 END OF COXXnOVER^Y AXD EXPLORATION". that Konnd." On liis return to X(iotka,A''{viicouvor was iiil'onnid by Saavcdra that duriiij^ liis al)sonr'o tlio jtoi't liaschatka, th(!ro to he dis- jtoscd of to the llussians foi- furs, with which a cargo of tea was to have been purchased in China; l)ut their expedition had not hitheilo answered their expecta- tions;" and, moreover, the crew were disposed to be mutinous. "Sonu^ few Americans had also arrived in our absence, but in a most deploral)le condition, totally in a want of j^rovisions, naval stores, and even such ar- ticles of mi'rcliandize as were necessai'y for tradinuf with the natives." Their names are not given, and tlie writer is almost sure to have exagi'crated their uver. Arr/i. Cat., M.S., Prov. St. i'i'j>., xxi. 1)4; I'rov. live, ii. IG'2; St. J'. .s-."'., ii. i;51--.'. ^•]'niiroiircr\i Voij., ii. 4'20, 3'24. In Tufh' LUt the sloop Union, Boyd Oiastcr, from Boston, is mentioned as jiaving been on the coast in 1 "!'•'(, besiilcs ihe ship Jiji'irnon, lloljerts, and brig //u:icor/:, Crowell, which left Boston in ITtI-. Tlie full title of this authority is as follows: Lltt of Aiiicricuii Tlsw/i e iijajril ill the Tnulii nf thi> \oith>rest Cvcist of America for Sea-otter SLiits fr'iiii i/W," to lSti:>, enmjiili'il Inj Williuin Tiifix, L'm/., from fiis oini Jlemoniiiihi, u III from the I'l'ri/ valuahle Ni'/oi kiiultji furnished lii/ Captain William Stiirfu, (f lioiitiin. Published in Swan's X. W. Cnast, app. , 4"J.'5-4. It was prepared in IS.")7, when the author writes: 'The foregoing list is nearly correct as it regards tlie vessels engaged in the early ti'ade in sea-otter xlinn by American » uterprise. The owners in all cases are not known. There may have Ijccn other vessels on the toast during the time who w(!re engaged in collecting the smaller skins and less valuable furs, but the above are the regular Nortii- v.est traders for sea-otter skins.' There are 04 voyagep mentioned; but >\ line well known ]5oston ships are strangidy omitted, possibly because their lAVjicrs were rivals of Sturgis and his partners. '■'/.'-(i, including 'Instruccioncs para el prolijo ivcjnociuiiento de la entrada do Ezeta y rio de lu Cjhunbia.' VICKROV 1M:V1LLA (ilCKDO. 20j bo noticed iircsciitly, ^vl^l(•1l in any sense ronioved tlio iiei'c'ssitv of such an ('.\[)l()i'ati()n, it was al)an(l(>no(l I')!' sonic niR;x|)lain(!(l reason, j)oilia]>s ai'isiiiL^ IVoin the wai"- liko aspct.'t of aiKrn-s in I'^ui'ope.'* Kaily in the spiini,', liowevei", the AninZdzn was despatehed under Josu Tohar Cor Nootka with tlie year's sui»i>lies. Orilei's from Spain re([uii\'d Jl(!villa (j!i<4'e(Io to send tht; coni- niissioner baek to Xootka for the completion of thi,' susj)ended l)iisincss witli Vancouver, an agreement havinj^ heen reached by the two courts rcspectinoints in dispute; but Don Juan Francisco de la Jjodena y Cuadra died in ^larcli, and the viceroy ap- ]t<»inted General Jose Manuel de A lava to succeed him, both as connnander of the San Bias establishment and as Xootka connnissioner. The nature of the new a;j^reenient was not yet known to the viceroy, or at least the commissioner's instructions had not an'ived; but Alava sailed in ^lav on the Priitccsd, Fidal<>'o in conmiand. His instructions Mere to be forwarded as soon as they should arrive.^'' Tile Aniifjiza beini; at Xootka in the middle of June, Saavedra, the commander of the j^arrison, resolved to send her to California for needed supplies, ])articularly medicines. He also wished to secure for his garrison the men that ]Matute liad left in Cali- fornia the year before ; and he sent a warning, brought by a trader from China, that a ]^ritish ship of forty guns was coming in October.-'" For some unexplained cause, instead of Tobar our okl American friend Ca})- h. A lit kn 111 Ji- ll t lir '*Ttis possible tliiit Olio of tlio tlircc iSpanisli vessels of the year mailc a survi'y uf tlie Columbia and clusily i.'.\.uliiinc(l the coast below, but tliere is no icet'nl of sueh a fact. '■ May lOth, virei'oy to governor of California, announcing Al.ava's mission, nnil bespeaking attentions in Califoiuia; the "JOth of August tliis oriler eoiu- r.iunienteil by the governor to jiresiilio coninianilers ; and iiplies of t!ie li'tter at various dates. Arch. CuL, MS., I'ror. St. I'aj)., xi. 171; xii. 101 •_', 11!); J'ror. L'l'c.iv. 117; I'aiu'diiirr'.i ro»/., iii. 301-2. The y^yiyjctsa did not toueli in California on her upward trip. ^'' Suarrdrti, Cnrtaa (il (loheriiudor ih CaVifornid nohrc Comitilc Xonlln, 17''.';, MS..inehiding also the governor's replies. Among the supplies demanded wiio '(iacetas para n;;ented to serxe as cha])lain on the Conccpvion, and (Joniez of the latter sailuii >vJth Kendrick.^*^ Ca})tain Vancouver came back to the American coast tliis year, for the last time, to complete his sur- vey of Miiska up to the head of (^o;>k Inlet, in about Gl'la'; al'ter this was accomplished he turned south- ward, and on the 2d of Se})tember the Dis('i)iri\i/ nud Clinfliam anchored at Nootka. A lava had arrived tlio day before on the PrinccKn. Neither connuissioner had any idea of liis official duties; and there was nothing to do i;i that direction l)ut await the instruc- tions that were to be sont to the Spaniard before the 15th of October. Vancouver \vas dee[)l3' grieved to learn tliat his old friend Cuadra was dead; but Alava I'ivalled his pi-edecessor in courtesy, an., xii. "Jl I. "' Ktiiilrirl:, ( 'itrrv^it'iiidcinia milnr ( 'o*r.t f/c Xoufbi, /,".''.}, MS. ; Cdlnh'i, Vart'% Kiiliri' Xuif//.-(i, nu.'i, MS. Tlif. AraxxazH, under 'I'dluir, li'I't \(«)tkii on tlio lltliof Si'jiti uiIk.'!', and again toiiclii'd at Montcny SoptoniljiT 'JJ<1 to 'JStU on lii'i- way to San ]]las. Vtiiicvuvirn Voij., iii. 30."); Arrlt. <'al., M.S., J'lvv. i.''. J'., .\ii. I JO, TRADING CRAFT AT XOOTKA. 297 [t't lio \vitli tlie customary salutes. The observatory was set up oil shore; tliere was plenty of work to he clone in i-eiittiirjf the vessels; and a visit was matle to tlio village of ^[aquinna, up the sound. ^'^ At Nootka Vancouver i'ound the follo\vinoston; and heard of the Jachd, Captain Brown, I'rom China, on the noi thorn coast. The English vessels had been very successful in their trade; and the American bris this to be all wroni]:, so far as the liate is concerned; and ^;till less accurate in this respect is the statement of ^Ir Sturgis that the accident occurred (tn Is'-ndrick's birthday, ill I71)l*." The fatal slutt was fired j^t'rhajts eai'ly in 1795, though the Luhj Wtis/n'nd in gi-and scIkmucs as to be behindhand ill th(^ ordinary aifairs of liie. It seems he could nob cvi'u die ' on time.'"'' I have already noted the possi- ^'•^I'ldwoiii'i r'n Voiiiiiji', i'i. 'Jilit-IlUi. '-" Mi's^rs Tufts iiiiil Stnigis iriv; mo iiamcR lu'twcoii IT'*'! junl 17'^'^ -^(iiifiili(i)i'\f Or. (iml Ctil., "JJlt. lie iilso s.'iyH, p. "JJ:!, that ('apUuu I'rown nils kilkiil \ty tins natives of the Samh ich Islaiuls in .lauuary 17;'">. "S/iirijIi fA'cltiri'. on t/ic Xnrtli-iCitl I'lir-friidf, 7,v/^', in // mil's M;!."). -'Aeniiriliii^' to the Xiirth Aiiifr. Itcficir, xv:. S"^."!, i\ sou of Kcndrii'U was with liis father iinil reiiiaineil some time nc Noolkii in the Spanish seivii e. la the Calilnrnia areliives a .lolm Kemlriek is iiunicil ! ; Mii.eteai;4o of the Lliiii, l!o\\an, Ijut this id very likely uii error, or at kajit another niau in 298 END OP CONTROVERI^Y AND EXPLORATION. bility tluit tlic Kendrick who visited California may have been a son oi' the orij^iiuil. meant. Accoi-dins to a report in C S. Oor. Doc, lO'h fon, Hays: 'Captain Kendrick wrote to his wife of this pu-ehase, also of de- positing the original title in Canton, and transmitting the duplieateto W'ash- iil^;ton. It was never seen l)y the family, and the letter in lelution to it wa.s lost. . .liy fire.' The representatives of the owners of tlie ves.sels ap])lied tritli-' U. S. government for a eoulirniution of the title, but l-' And tlnis were lost all Ids ellects, including journals and records. 'Tlicri; are proofs in the family that Captain Kendrick w.is on(i of the famous IJoston Tea I'arty in 1773, and that lie was with Captain Cook ill his last voyage (jf 1770.' Captain Ainasa Delano, XarriUif' cf I ''..'/";/' ■•i, liostoii, I SI 7, I'p. .'{',>!)-4'.M), who met Kendrick at (,'anton in 17'.'l, ainl who in 1801 at the Sandwich Islands hoard of his deatli, eulogizes him as a navigator with but few e(|uals, noted for his enterprising .sjiirit, good judg- ment, and courage. A man of rare merits, his faults being but fcM- comjiared Avitli his auiiablo qualities. In about l.S.'}l)-40 JIall J. Kelley became inter- ested in the Kendrick title, and was iu.strumental in bringing it liet'ore eon- jjress. From a pamphlet on the subject, Kcllii/'.i JJi.iror. S". IT. Con-^t, I have already citeil in the 'jreeediiig chapter, note li'.i, the title-deeds and F ".ne e.irvespondciKv^ Tiiis writer speaks of the attempt to sell the Luicls in I^ondon in 17'J(!, wlien advertisements in four langnagea wcvv, circulateil, liear- ing i!iiprcssi(>n of the Columbia medals. ^Ir Wardttrom, in a work on 'J'nii' ( '.tloiihal'mi, is said to have expressed conlidence in the title, giving also the ]>ieLured mi'dals. Kelley, Lflhr oi .January I, 1870, states that Kcndrick's ileavli was on the 4th of July 1793; but the correspondence above cited —if Mr Howell, as represented, sailed for China with the papers alter tlic laptain's death -seems to sL-ow tliat it must have been early in 1705; tvIuIc if it were nut for tlio date of llowells letters I should place it after I79!i. 'i'he follow- ing, in wliich tlie leader will note a few errors, is from the New York Trihinie, November 'J.'), 1.S7I: ' The name of Captain John Kendrick. the tirst .Vineiican exi)loier to the nortli-west I'aeilie, is one Mliich our history lan hardly iillord t.) lose. The yelling and daring men whcj are attached to tlie scieiititic ex))e- ditiou in tluit ipiarter to-day, could not aslj a worthier tigiire t(j liead their annals tliaii tliis njaight and fearle.is captain wliom tradition says alisnhitely knew liot the fear of savage or storm, whom no disaster could daunt or sfiller- ing sulichie. He commanded the e>;pedition sent out by u ci.mpany i>f IJoston mei'chants to tlie I'aeitie, wliieh was actually the first time that nn .Vmerican ship.saded round the globe, flu met witil incredible iiiirdships on dill'erent voy.'iges; two sons wens killed by In tlie northward. Forthishe received liually the j)ateiit of a large tract of land ecpial in extent to nearly tlie whole state of Oregiiii; but the papers M'ei'e lost with liim on his last voyage, niid liis fajnily, aftera fewediu'ts, gave np tlieir claim. He brought hoiiieniapsnf the ouscan 1 jtictures of savage costume, as well as the "icenery, paiiiied witii no suiall skill l)y tiic sliip's painter, a man who had talent beyouil his trade. ^ < t there is searcely a trace left of this gallant navigator, ami his name is barely lueutiuued iu any record of uyrth-westeru e,\plovutioiid. llis services were so i COLXETT'S ASSERTIONS. 299 ii On tho IGtli of Octol)er, no despatclios having arrived, the Enlorer died before his work appeared in print, but not before he ha>f histoi'ians anil otiie.s to get si'^'lit of tliini have yet i)rovid useless. The work of sutling tlie dauntless Keiidiiek liefore tlio counti'v wliiehowes liini .so muoli lias been undertakiii l>y loyal and loving liundH, but is widly hampered for want of authentic docu- ments.' '*'' In a note, p. .^^'2, Vancouver says this was not the fact, as the fresh iii- Btnu'tiims Were at first addres.sed to iiiin. ■'f'lr'llii (I'ii/pilo, hixtnirrloH V'Sfrrailn d mi S/iri'Dnr lirnnfiforto, ./<'.''/, a MS. in till! library of congress cited )>y Nreenhmv, states 'thatorders had been HI lit to tlie eoniniandant [at Ximtkal to abandon the jijace, agreeably to a royal il'i'liiiiirii:' anil also contains advice not to extend the Sji.iiiish establishiiieiit i beyond .N'ootka. The viceroy's annomieenniit that a new eouiiiiissiou liai belli issued isilateil the Kith of ,Abiy ITi'l and tlu -ovei'imr's receipt the I'Jth of Xovcniber. Anh.Cal., MS., i'ror. ."^ I'cj'., xi. 17-; I'ror. Jt(<:, vi. '29. I! HI iOfi END OF CONTROVEKSY AXB EXPLORATIOX. the latter "liad been extremely ill used, and that no dopenck'nce is to be placed on the accounts given to Senor Quadra, or myself, by the American com- manders, who are stated to have been eye-witnesses of most of the transactions. The documents and l)a[)ers whicli Captain Colnett has since })roduced to iiK', fully prove that the Americans wilfidly misrep- resented the whole affair, to the prejudice of his character, and the interest of his British majesty's Hubjects."^" Vancouvcjr was very willing to be con- vinced of American perfidy, and the reader already knows what weight is to be attached to Cohiett's testimony. Meanwiiile the Xootha controvcrs}'" had been defi- nitely settled by a convention signed at Madrid on the 11th (jf January 1794, by the British and Spanish ministers St Helens and the Duke of Alcudia. By the terms of this agreement the respective commis- sioners were to meet as soon as possible on or near the spot where stood the buildings formerly occupied by British subjects, and there to exchange declaration and counter-declaration as literally prescribed in the document. The former was p, final restoration of the buildings and lands of which British subjects had been dispossessed about April 1789, and the latter a foi-mal declaration that the restoration was complete and satisl'actoi-y. "Then the British officer shall un- fui'l the British flag over the land thus restored as a sign of possession, and after these formalities the offi- cers of the two crowns shall retire respectively their people from the said port of Nootka. And their said majesties have furthermore agreed that the subjects of both nations sliall be free to frequent the said port as may be convc;nient, and to erect there temporary buildings for their acconunodation duriuLir their rcsi- deuce on such occasions. But neither of the two f)arties shall make in said port any permanent estab- ishment, or claim there any right of sovereignty or '" Vancouver^a Voy., v'u 310 et scq., 491 ct acq. ABAXDOXMEXT OF XOOTKA. m territorial dominion to tlio exclusion of tlic other. And their said majesties ^-ill aid each other to nuiintain their subjects in free access to the said port of Nootka against whatever other nation may attempt to establish there any sovereignty or do- nnnion "27 General Alava seems to have passed the n-intcr in California. On the 13th of January 171);j the Actlca sailed from San Bias, commanded by Lieu- tenant Cosme Bcrtodano, and having on board Lieu- tenant Thomas Pierce of the marines, the newly aj»pointed British commissioner. One month later t!io brig touched at Monterey, and having taken Akiva on board sailed on March 1st for the north. We have few details of the acts of restitution on the 23d of March, chanixe of flau^s, and final abandfjnment of Xootka; but the formalities were clearly prescribed in tlic treaty, and were 0. 'J'lio last named writer dimply k'armil fnmi ii letter received .it Nootka in ITSMJ 'that the Spaniards liad •lelivered lip the port of Nootka, «^tc. , to Lieutenant I'ierco of the marines, agreeably to the mode of restitution settled between the two eourt.s.' '^'^(i'r<('n/ii'ir'n Or. ami C'll., '2'u->^y eiting Ilflnhn^i'-i Hist, (licut Ilrilnin, viii. .'^;i7. 1"he seeond elan.H! was (jnoted by nic from the edition c>f 1.S45; liiit ill tile later edition of 1S47 it reaot!i jiarties should al>aiidi>n the north-west eoast of Ameriea, than that eithrr should have persisti'd in its original demand at a, moment when their cordial niiion anil coo[)eriition was so desirable for both.' He abso (piotcs tlie follow- ill',' letter ficjin Lieutenant I'ierce from 'J'epie, in 17ll.">, which still, as will lie noticed, gives a wrong impression about the tinal .settlement: 'I hiive the honor of ac(piaintiiig your grace, that, in obudieiice to your instructions, [ jiroecedcd from Monterey to Nootka, in company with Brigadier-gcncr;il Alav:i. the ollicer appointed on the part of the court of Spain, for iiually ter- minating the negotiations rel.-itive to that jiort; where, having satislicd myaelf respecting the stiite of the country at the time of the arrival of the NATIOX-VL RIGHTS. 303 -iiulily Is had ariiu's, Twiss, on the other hand, deems the statements of ]h'ou^htoii, Koeh, and !Mofras as conclusive a^u^ainst tliat of ]3elsham, and beheves there can he no doubt t!iat the ])hice was restored to England.^ But neither champion had the least suspicion of the formal alxm- y the morniiiy of the "JSth, all the artiHcry ui'vc embarked, part on hoard of his Catholic majesty "ti sloii[) of var A'iin , and ])ait on hoard of the Sun Carlos guardsliii). ]'.iiu'adi<'r-;,'eneral .\lav;i and niys'.'lf then met, agreeably to our respective instructions, (.n tin' jilaco vlicie formerly the British buililings stood, where we signed and exchangtd tlu' declaration and counter-cUchirution for restoring tiiose lands to his luaji'sty, as agreed upon bet\\'een the two coui'ts. Alter wliieli eeremony, [ oidi led the Ihitish llag to be hoisted in token of possession, ami ihe general gave directions for the troops to embark.' '" Twix.i OrJ^iiext., llil-a, citiw^ Mo/rii.% l-'.vi>lor., ii. 1 l.'i, and K"i!i. Ifi-tui r Alirnii'r ihs TniitAi, 1., chap. xxiv. The latter saj's < f tin? explorations of restoration: 'Miles furent termiiieea le "JH Mai's ht- est clann to exclusive possession or to sovereignty; either might acquire such a claim, but only by actual occupation in the future. The old formalities of taking possession were now null and void; the Xorthwest Coast, thougli so fully explored, was open ftjr settle- ment to the whole world ; exclusive titles were matters for future creation. For some years no naticjii took steps to acquire such a title ; Spain never took such steps. The theory that the Nootka convention — especially as supplemented by the agreement of 1704 and resulting in official acts — was nothin-j: but a scries of tempoiaiy concessions by which during the con- tinucuK'o of peace Spain merely encumbered her ex- clusive title, seems to me, with due respect to the able men who have sustained it, an absurdity. Spain re- tained no title -which she could transfer to another nation; and this is equally true whether or m)t the treaties of 1700 and 1704 be deemed to have been ended by a subsequent war with England. The only trading-vessel of the year of which any- thing is known is the Phccnlx, Captain ]Moor, from Uengal, which has been noticed as one of the ileot of earlier years; and all that we know about her trip is that she touched on the California coast in August, leaving a 'Boston boy' in that country, and creating quite a ]'ip})le of excitement among the people on guard against an alLiek by Great Britain."^ Captain Broughton's visit to the coast in 170G has already l)oen mentioned. Ho came from the Sand- wich Islands on the sloop Discoverij, after a survey of the northern Asiatic coast, arriviuLr at Xootka Sound on the 15th of ]\Iarch, remaining two montlis for repairs, visiting Neali Ba}^, and thence proci^eding "//(.•*;. (.'«/., i., chap, xxv., thia scries. THE SHIP OTTER. 905 ig aiiy- froiii ot <.f ip is list, itin;^' uarel ccliug tf) California. There is nothine: further to bo said of Ills vi«it, except that he found the Lathj Wa.shiiKjton at Xootka.** The only other traders of the year of which we have any definite record were the snow Sea Otter, Hill master, and a vessel, perhaps the Dispatc/i, under Captain Newbury, both of which are named by Mr Tufts as having left Boston the year bei'ore, though there is no reason to suppose the trading fleet of this year was smaller than that of the preceding.'*' Tliere are, however, a few vague references to the northern traders in the California archives, reveal- ing also apparently that a Spanish ship was sent to northern waters this year, either to obtain some rem- nants of property at Nootka or possibly to make a secret examination of the Columbia, nothing but one indirect reference being extant respecting the voyage. On the ISth of July Governor Borica writes to his comandantes: "The American captain Dorr, who re- cently met Don Jose Tobar, commander of the Satil, at Xootka, reported to him that he had been tokl at Botany Bay by the English captain Barba that ho had orders to attack the [Spanish] expeditions, and that he had similar orders for Broughton, of the P)vridence"^ There is nothing more about the Sutif, but Captain Ebenezer Dorr, commanding the Otter of Boston, the first American vessel that ever anchored in Cali- fornian waters, made his appearance at jMonterey in October, doubtless coniini; from a fur-sokinif cruise m tlie north. She was possibly identical with the Sea Otter already mentioned, though {)robably not. Captain Dorr created some excitement by leaving in California, against the will of the officials, a number ^'Jlroiinhlon (iVUliam liohfrt), A voi/afjc of dixcnren/ to the Xorth Parific Oreaii, Lonilun, 1804, 4to. The m.-itter relatinj,' to our territory is on pp. -/S-JS, The foiiiinauiler of the Lnilij Waxhimjton is not nunied. ''' Ttiftfi' Lixt. Newbury's vessel is called a schooner and not nainod ; but in Nilis' ReijUter, xviii. 417, it is said that the Disjxitch, Newbury, Mith AVilliani Smith on Ixiard, sailed from Bostou ou the '28th of October 17t)4, retuniing in June 1 796. '^^Arch. Ciil., MS., Prov. liec, iv. 148-9. Hist. N. W. Coabt, Vol. I. 20 300 END OF CONTROVERSY AND EXPLORATION. of f'ouvict stowaways fi'oin Botany Bay, as related in another volume of this series.^' From 1797 we have but a meagre record of trading vessels that visited the Northwest Coast. It is not irolxible that the names even of half tlie number are ;nown. It is fortunate, from an historical point of view, that it is the latest rather tlian the earliest period of the fur-trade whost; annals are so incom- plete. In 1797 the Scd Otter remained on the coast, entered tlie Columbia, and it is said that Captain Hill v/as killed. The ships Disjtntch and Iiuliaii Pavkct, connnanded by Jonathan Boweis and by Rogers — Dorr and Sons t)wners — and the ship Hazard, Swift master, owned l)y Perkins, Land), and Company, are nanjed as the Boston ships of the year.''" The fleet of 1798 included five vessels wlilch cleared from Boston the year before with trade cargoes invoiced at from seven thousand to seventeen thousand dollars, as shown by the custom-house rec- ords. The Alexainkn', under Captain Asa Dodge, v. ith Charles Winship as supercargo and part owner, V. as the only one of the number whose invoice was less than thirteen thousand dollars. The Hazard, Swift master, which had wintered in the Pacific, ac- cording to Gray entered the Columbia. The otliei-s ^vere the Jcnnij, Bowers master; the Alert, Bov.'les njaster; and the Elim, connnanded ]>y James Rowan. Of the adventures and achievements of the fleet we know nothing.''^ The cutter Draijon, Lay mastei-, from China, was also on the coast this year or the year before.** In 1799 there was one voyage recorded in a printed •''See Hist. C'ul., i., chap, xxv., of this series, whioli ami the following chapters contain also information about the war between Spain and I'^ng- lanil as waged, on paper, in California. '■^*''Tiifl,s' Lint; Gmifsll'ist. Or., 14; XShs'' I}p;i!nfn; xviii. 417. ^'/JosfoH in the Northwvst, MS., 71; Custom-bouae record, in Id., 7(5-7. la TiiJ'ls' Lid no vessels are named for 1708, but the AV(>e is accredited ti> the next year, perhaps correctly; she was owned by Perkins, Lamb, und Company. =» C'leidand's 2far., 46, 04. !i!iSi CAPTAIN CLEVELAND. 107 :it'i', as ''I •dv- lers •Ics ■an. wo oni oar Le{ I 1111^ lited luib, narrative, that of Richartl J. ClovelaiKl, a young oouiniorcial adventurer from Salem, Massachusetts. He bouiifht tlie Drmjon at Canton, changed her name to the Caroline , and fitted her out for a fur-trading cruise. He sighted land on March 30th at Norfolk Sound, and most of his operations were on the Alaskan coast; but he finally came down to Queen Charlotte Islands, and with a valuable lot of furs he reached the Sandwich Islands in July, and Macao in October.^' Cleveland met five other traders. The Uhjsxics, Cap- tain Lamb, which left Boston with a cargo valued at fourteen thousand dollars, had arrived in February, "but the success which ought to have resulted from so early an arrival, was defeated by a mutiny of long and ruinous duration."*" The Elisa, Ca[)tain Rowan, had wintered probably at the Islands and had arrived on tlie trading-grounds in February. When Cleve- land met Rowan on the 9tli of April ho had been very successful, and "was on his way to the soutli- ward to complete his cargo, and then to leave tlio coast. He mentioned, that ten vessels would prob- ably be despatched from Boston for the coast this season." In INIay, Rowan made his appearance at San Francisco, the Elisa being the first American vessel to anchor in that port. She carried twelve guns, and John Kondrick — probably not our old friend of that name — was understood to be her supercargo. R1, (i'J-94 ; also A''. Am. liivicw, xxv. 4.'J8, in wliich tliu vessL'l is termed an P'uylish one. The names used by Cleveland, as ap- jilicd to tribes, ehiefs, and places are: Skittigates, Coneyaws, Cummasliuw, J'ytantes, Tatiskce Cove, North Island, Kiganny, Point Rose, North Island, I'^taigee, and Kow. *"(.7f;(v./a/»rx ^V«)-., 90; Boston in the Northwe«t, MS., 76. Owned by Lamb i.nd others. Tufts' List. ^Ulist. Cal., i., chap, xxv., this series; Ckcdand'n Nar., 74, 102; Tuftn'' if 303 END OF CONTROVERSY ANT) EXPLORATION. Two other Boston ships, the ILnwock, Crocker, and the Dispatcfi, Breirk, were met by Cleveland near Nor- folk Sound early in June, havinj^ arrived on the coast rather too late to insure successful voyaj^jes the present season." The Enjjflish ship Checifn/, Ca[)tain Beck, had also not obtained many furs, havin<:f nu^reover }jf rounded on a sand-bank and been attacked by tho Indians," And finally Mr Tufts names the Canton shij) Dove, commanded by Duffin. The fleet of 1 800, as named by Tufts, consisted of tho Alert, Bowles, owned by Lamb; tho Jennij, Bowers; and Rover, Davidson, owned by Dorr and Sons; tho Alexander, Dodd master, Bass owner; the ILcMrd, Swift, Perkins; and the Dove of Canton, connnanded by Duffin. The Betsii, a Boston brijTfantino under the com- mand of Caj)tain Charles Winshij), is the only otlicr trader of 1800 of which wo have any record. She had left Boston the preceding year, and after a tri[i in tho north, of which nothing is known, touched at San Diego for supplies, remaining at anchor in that i)ort — the first American vessel t( enter it — fr,! t:rr''ii,:;"ti "'■" ^s"' "'^ ""''i'"- «" rlockaded — Seizure or ti :. 'Meiuuuv' am> •CiiARoN,' 1SI3 — Cai'Tain Smith — H. B. M. f^; niii- ' Raccoon' Taki:s Astoria — Tiie 'Pedler'of 1814 — The 'L^aac Tddd' — The Inoi;tii- WEST Company's 'Columbia' of 1813 — The 'Colonel' in California, 18I(i— Last of the 'Albatross'— Roquefeiil's Viiya(;e in the ']>i)K- DELAis,' 1817 18— Last OF Maquinna ani» Nuutka— The Men-of-svak 'Ontario' and 'Blossom' — Vessels of 1810-40. TiiR vessels trading on tlio Nortlnvest Coast in 1801 from Anierioan ports were at least tliiitctii ill miinbcr. From Boston, l*erkin.s and ( \>mitany had despatched the (Jlohc, Captain Manj^ec, the Cui'd/iiit', (\iptain ])erl>y, and the C/i((rfof':r, Caj)taiu Ini^iTsoll: Lyman and Ct»mpany,the (iii<(ft)iitr.ii), Ca]»tain IJum- stead, and the Atiiltdaljxj, Captain Wildes; Dorr and »Son."i, the J)isjK(tcli and Litdlcr, each eomnianded !>y ojio of the J)on's; Cobb, the Lkci/, Pieipont niastii'; Coolidinfe, the ]}y BOSTON VESSELS. T)v Wolf of Bristol, I^IkkU' Island ; and tlio Entcrprisi', Captain Ezckid J[u1)1k'11, l»y Hoy and Thorn, of Xeu' York.^ Tlioir invoices ranged from 80718 to 5?20,2r):{, the amounts carried respectively hy Pierpont and !^[agee. Xone of tlie Heet has left any record of opi-rations in ISO! except the Entrr^i'ixe, about which Missel we know tliat she touched at San l^ieL>'o for supplier in Juiie, carry inj^ ten j^uns and a crew of tweiity-orio men.'^ The JIazanf, mider (^uptain Swil't, i< said to have entered the C'olumhia Kiver tliis year. The afterward famoi;s William Smith was on this vessvahia ; and the.//'//o, Captain Kendrick, owned by ])e Wolf of ]-Jiistol.* Tlie Miiiic/tcsfrr toucheu dii'd.' AcconHng to Mr Tufts, Captain Magei* (»f the ' Cii:.tciin-li in //,, Xorlln M> 711 7. II : '/'"h l.ixt. (';i|it,'iiM O'Cniii 81'L'iim til li,i\ (' liccii on tin' ■■Daist, liut iicrliaji.s not in iniiml of ii vi'sscl. M ,'■/(. (',./., MS., Pm>: /^ xii. II VI. .\';/,.v' /.', i/i'-ti r -wiii. 41.S; 0'/-(f//'.s llitt. .-(' Am/. ■'./, intTK Xfir., 00-1 : ' He ^'n\ r me a Ifiok in wlii -li T founil {he nanus of si'Vcn prisons iK'Ionyinii •la.k, to till' !-liii> Manrlicstcr, of i'liil.icliliiiiia, (' i'anifl Smitli. Lewis (iillon, .lames Tom, DaiU, .lojinsoii. t.l: .1 A most cruel deatJi it uas. as 1 was told oy one of tlie nati\e,s, fi 1 :eii lioMiii,',' one of tin III on the (.'roiinil, anil foi' ii,,' ojieii his moiitli, \viiile tliey I hoakeil liim liy raniiiiin;,' stones down liis tliniat. .\s to.laeU.., 1 was iiifiii'iiied liy the jn'iiioess I'lc/i/if, that lie was i|uite a small lioy, who ei'ieil ii irieat deal, luin,!,' )>ut to liaid lalmr l«>yond liis istrin.;tl! liy llie iiati\es, in euitin;; wood and In iiii.in;,' \\ i d that w!ie:i he lieaid of llie liimderof eiew, it hull bui'li uii cUvc't vn liiiii thut liu fell isick and died itliurtly iiftcr. 312 LAST OF THE EXPLORERS. (ilohe was killed tlurin;^ this voyajjjo. The Qiroliue wont to tho Hawaiian Islands, })rol)ahly to spend tliu winter there as the traders were wont to rys c»f Boston, having obtained a caru'o in Enu Hhip, which hi'iimi mamh'il, fni'ii tlic \(irtli\\ost('i)ii.st. ('harlcsuml I hail (Miik-il muiiy a thousiiini IcairucM to^'cthir, ami, li.!!ii;jf ;lit (Iowa to Califoi'iiiii Mas as follows; Tlio chief Quatla/aiM? was toM liy the Ainerieail eaptiiin 'that hi! was a iiieau fellow to traile with. 'I'liu eap- tiiiii tohl liini ho liatl met iiiuiiy e> aj)[)eai'anco of a chieftitin, aitu .-iipeureil a very low man. 'I'he chief i-c- lilieil, • I'ice(|Ue' [peshakj, whieii in their lan>,'nage means 'Imtl man;' ami tlio captain taking a nnisket threuteneil hint, ami onlereil him on sl>ore as aii iiisnit nt fellow, (ioing V- his ranehoriiv he siMnnioneil all the Imlians fmni Kiica .Strait to this n(;rtTi |;'.int of NiHitka, wiio ussenilile. I'n/i., Miin. uiid Cut., i. 8i)-01; t'aptuiu ivowuu's letter of August 12, 1803, to Argiiello. 314 LAST OF THE EXPLORERS. Avron<:js perhaps of earlier date ;'" and the story of wliat followed cannot be better t(>ld than by continuiiij,^ to quote the words of one who was present. "On the nioriiini^ of the 22d the natives came off to us as usual with salmon, and remained on board, when about noon Maquiima came along side witli a con- siderable nundjer of his chiefs and men in their canoes, who after going through the customary ex- amination wore admitted into the ship, lie had a Avhistle In his hand, and over his face a very ugly mask of wood representing the head of some wild beast, ap- j»(>ar('eing s]i<;rt, and the i-ibbon with which it was tied sli])|)ing, I I'ell iVom Ills hold into tiie steerage. As T was falling, be struck at me with an axe, which cut a deep gash in '"Miuiuinna toM .Tcwitt liitt-rtlmt In- liml ncvcnil titncs Itoon ill-tnvitcil !>>' forci'jii visitor. Ciiptiiii I'awiiiiiKtoii, (■iiiiimimiliiij^ a mIkidiici' vliiih \\\'.\- tciTil jit I'lii'lldly ('i)Vi', liiiil riittTcil .M;n|iiimi;r;i Iiounc ill Lis iiliscm-d ii'wl liiki'ii 40 lino Hitiiis, Itt'siilt's tViylitcnini; tlic woiiumi. Tlifti Miii'lim/ !i;i'l kiiliil f()\ir cliic'fs; uinl ttouii iiftiT, < 'attain U/.iintt of the .s'l ■(••Y/c;- liail linil niic II tlic (anoos and kilh'tl ovi-r twenty of tlw iiativi-.s, Mai|iiimia luiii>i!f lia\ iii;i to swim for his lif«i. Ilia ilcsirc for n-vonge wii« ivUiiulk-d liy ( 'apt liii Saltt r's iiKailt. "Ill till' ai'i (Hint given to !!o\van. tlie IndiaiiM are Maid tn have nlitaiiied in iidv;iiiie pel'ir.i.shion to liii\e a daiiee on liourd an a eeniiiniiial liiakiiiy-iip after tlie reeeut i.!i»iiute, till as imrt of a, plot to sieizc the vunacl. CAPTURE OF THE BOSTON. 315 a n 1 aiul li in |\\ in- iDwl lia.l litiiii ■a in lifUir my foivlicad, mul i)enotratcd the skull; but in consc- • jUeiiec of" his losing his hold, I luckily cs(';i})e(l the full force of the blow. I fell stunned and senseless upon the floor." When he regained consciousness he found the hatch closed and judged by their yells that tlio savages were in possession of the ship. Presently he was sunnnoned before Maquinna ami itroniisrd his \\l\) on condition of becoming a slave to make and re- jtair weapons for his master. On the quarter-deck ho was shown in a line the heads of twenty-five murdded (•oin[)anions, and was ordered to identify each In' name. After seizing the ship and killing all on deck, th( v liad sent a well armed force to brinijf back the heads of those in the boats." Til ' Boston was moved from her anchorage, beached at Filcndly Cove, strip[)ed of the more easily acces- sil)le })ortit)ns of her cargo, and a few days later ac- eidenhilly burned. ^Meanwhile another man, .bdni Thompson the sail-maker was found in tht' hold, wheie ho had concealed himself after I'eceiving a knife-wound in the nose. Jewitt's life was sjiai-ed because of his skill in making weaj>ons; and Thomp- son's at the intercession of Jewitt, who re[ircsentcd him as his father; though there were many who ^\i^^lK•d to kill btjth. The two survivors lived among the savages in ^laquinna's service for thi'ee years, ucnerally well enough treated, and suflering such har(l:in;{ oil. lit It nijnul fi-oiu tho eliiuf, a crowd f imtivos btiug cluijo al liaml in tlitir CUllUCD. % SIO LAST OF THE EXPLORERS. incnilation from Jcwitt as caused his iminodiato arrcijt as a liostago for tho ca|)ti\\.''s release. After a tradiiii^ cruise the two iiieii left the vvoast in Au<,mst 180C), and before the end of 1807 arrived in Boston cia China. Jewitt was an Englislinuin, only twenty years old at the time of his capture. He had shipped at Iluli Ini' this voyai^e, and kept a diary during his cai)tivitv, from Avliich a book was published on his return in 1807, and afterward in many different editions. The narrative is a fascinating one of the author's personal adven- tures, containing also much valuable information on the manners and customs of the Nootka Indians. For details of the captivity beyond what has been presented I have no space." A few tlays after the capture of the Boston two shi[)s were seen approaching the port at Xootka, but they were frightened away by the hostile denioii- f^trations of the natives, who opened fire upon tlKiu \v)th muskets and blunderbusses. "After firing a iVw rounds of grape shot which did no harm to any one, they wore ship and stood out to sea. These sliijis, ;is I ai'terwards learned, were the Mary and Juno of Bost(»n. They were scarcely out of sight wlien Mii- quinna ex[)ressed nmcli regret that he had permitted his people to fire at them, being api>rehensive tliut they would give information to others in what nuuuur they had been received, and prevent them from coming tt) trade with him."" : ".! nnrrnl'ire of tho ndvenfiirea niul miffirinrjs of John I?. Jrintt ; oiili/ mir- rlcnr <;/' l/w rreir of the Hhi/), Jioxtoii, diirimj a cu/itirilji of iivurl'i thm' iiiai\< ttinoiiij llii' siiniijii <;/' Xoo'k'd Siiiniil; irilh on (vruiii I if t/n' iiumniri. tiimli- if I! rill;!, iiii'l ri Hi /ions n/iiiiionnff l/ii' itntlnn, emhrlHnhnl irt/h ii plali' fi'jiri'ffii'inil tin- sh'iii 'lit III!' )ii>.i!»itnh,n if the "nruijix. \uw York, ISKi, I'Jmi), "JiWiii). This is iiiiiikt'il ',\i\ ('ilitii)U. 1 have l)of(ii'u me aiiotlu'i- of Ithaoa l7 ami New York l.SPJ, was entitled. A .Iniininl /.rjif at .\iii,fi:i .Siiiiiiil lii/Jii/iii It. -fi "■'''^ etc. ]{eals()iiote.s thirteen other editions, .statiiigth.it one \y (ioodrich, or ' I'eter I'arley.' Sproat, Sn iicn mi'/ Sfinriin, ."i, f;ivi's .some slight reminiscences of .lewitt's captivity obtained lieltl from an old Indian w iio had known the captive. "./( )C(7/'.i Xnr., 'Mi. 'I'he Juno was one of the precedinj' year's veshcls; tlir Alnnj was owned l>y (8ton and comioaudud by liowlcs, who is said tt> Lave died during the voyage. I'ufta' Lint. OTHER SHIPS FROM BOSTON. 317 Two other traders suffered this year from Iiulian liostilities, tlie Alexandet', Captain John Brown, and tlic IJiiziirif, Captain James Rowan. They nuule their ;ij)lH;arance at San Francisco on the 11th of Aut known. Captain Rowan, on tlie other hand, was well treated and allowed four (lays for refitting, having presented a written state- ment of his vessel's condition, the truth of which was veiitied by Comandante Arguello by a })ersonal in- spection. The JLizaril had been several times attacked by the natives in Chatham Strait, and had narrowly escaped capture, besides receiving damages fi'om striking on a rock. None of her men had been lost, but her hull and rigging were riddled with balls, the Indians having been well provided with hre-arms. On Ills way south Rowan had touched at the strait of I'uca, where he heard of the liostoiis disaster, anil Ijiought the news to California." The (fOdn, Captain Joseph O'Cain, sailed from ]>oston January 2:3, 1803, and reached Sitka before the end of the year. Jonathan Winshii», one of the owners, made his first visit to the coast on this vessel. It does not clearly aj)pear that she touched (Mi the Xortliwest Coast proper this year; but the voyagt; ' '.bv7i. Ciil., MS., St. Pap., Miss. aiidCol., i. 84-9. Sec ffiM. Cttl., ii. oliai). i., tliis series, fur mune tidditiunul pai'ticulurs ulMJUt the cxpuricnce of r.ruwii Mild lUiWitn in California. The IJn-.urd is said to huve hud .'(() men und '22 Minis. In Xili'n' Jx'vijiM) r, xviii. 418, she is said to havt- wuled from Ikjston lit Siptiiiiliir ISO'J, rctuniiug on the Oth of May 1805, under Swift us niasUran.l Smith us mute; so ulso in TuJ'tn' Lint; and ua the SiNiuiurds write the nuniu Asiir there i& u possibility that ilowaa cumiiuuidod aaother vessel. } 31S LAST OP THE EXPLORERS. lasted three years, and wc shall hear more of this crai't.'" Mr Gray names the Alert, conimanded hy Ehht'tts, and the Vancoucci'f by Brown, among tliu vessels tliat visited the eoast this year." William Sturgis, prol)ahly rommanding the Boston ship Caroline, arrived at Kaigan early in 1804. On a previous visit he had noticed the high value at- tached l)y the natives to the ermine-skin, and lie had obtained about five thousand of them at a cost of about thirty cents each in ]^oston. The result was that in half a day he purchased five hundred anr the command of Cajttain William 8halcr. ( 'oming from China, she arrived at the mouth of the Columbia on the 1st of ^Tav, but ibr ei-jlit days was ud'-.Mo to cross the bar, and finally jwo- eoedcd down the coast in search of a more acccssiMo l)ort, entering Trinidad the 0th of May." The J/plies at San Francisco in February, Captain Kowan sailed for the Northwest Coast. Of his operations there nrjthing is known, Imt in Sej)tember he reapj)eared in the southern ])orts, as usual in great need of [int- visions.'-" Smu'4'dinijr and an illicit fur-trade on llie coasts of up[)er and lower California were becoming much more attractive to the Boston men than the barter of old with the northern savages, who had "■•A'lw/ojf 111 the Xnrthiixsf, MS., 11-1*2. ^'(li-dil'x llisl. Of., \l. '",S'/»/;/m' yorfhirist I'll)' Trade, .">30; Tii/tn' List. ^"S/mli r'n ,/oiiniiil, l.SS-i). Tlio oiifi'iitioiiH of the Mia Bi/rd on tlio Cali- foi'iiiitn coast in ISd.'f-,") jirii n-lati'd in l/iit. Cnl., ii., clia|>. i.-ii., this Hfries. '"An-h. ('■., xviii. XM, IKil, 'Mli, ;<7(i !»; I'r-r. /,W., xi. 10:J; .St. I'ujK Siv., V. 70. (Jruy, llixl. Or., 14, tolls us that the IVikiiis C'oinpauy sent tlio l/itzunt umlor Swift to the (/'olmiihia in 1804; aUo that Tlicudurc Lyman sent the Uautiinouii, Cuptuiu Uuniateud, fruni Itostuu. CAPTAIN OCAIS. sto Oil tl..' s at sailt'tl thoro vi'd ill pi'o- lu the n tli»' ) luul Ihf. TiiU- \i: /.'<■•., lUo tliut lu. now acquired now ideas respecting the value of their fuis, had become hostile and revengeful, often with iiuich cause, and who had heconie somewhat too well supi)lied witli fire-arms. Captain O'Cain had the h()ii(»r of introducing a new development of the fui-- tiade this year. He was still prepared for haiter witli the Indians, and he was still alive to the cluirni ; and profits of smuggling; but his genius demanded a broader field. On his arrival at Sitka in the fall of 180:1, he induced the manager of the Russian estab- li.limeiits, Raninof, to furnish Aleut otter- hunters with their bidarhts for a hunting tour in the soutli, the product to be divided between the Russian com- j)any and the Boston owners. The result of this fii'st trip of the (JGiin was eleven hundred otter-skins carried from the Californian coasts, chiefly from those (f tlie peninsula, to Alaska in June 1804, the vessil thence directing her course to China and homeward.'* This new system of hunting on sliares was continued fur years with some profit to tlie contracting parties, I' pi'cially to the Americans; but it was at last ter- minated by the Russians when they convinced them- SL'hes that their Yankee partners could neither be trusted nor watched, besides arousing the enmity of Spain by their unlawful operations. The whole sub- jeet is fully treated elsewhere in this work, mainly coiicerninij: Califi)rnia and Alaska. Hunting under this iirw arrangement was chiefly confined to the southern (Masts, almost exclusively so far as the records show. Naturally the Spanish archives mention only coiii]»li- • at ions with the Californian authorities; the Russian records deal only with the contracts, outfits,and results; while but few loij-books are extant. Yet as these \ tssels passed each year u[> and down between Alaska and California, it seems necessary to mention them in • •oiinection with the maritime annals of the Northwest Coast, even if no records appear of their occasional laii(linj>s and adventures within that territory. ■'HwtoH in the Xoi-fhiresf, MS., 11-12: KIMmih/, Zapidi, 8; Tikhm>''iied in the bade iiiiJ('wHVx Xar., 154-6.3. Gray, Hist. Or., 15, speaks of the Li/dia as Kout from IJoston to theColumbia by Lyman in 1800. Tufts says she sailed in l.S()4. '^licztinqf, Zupixki, 203-4. She left Boston in 1804, being owned as well as comniauded by De Wolf. Tvjh' List. TYINSniP AND DARAXOF. m Tlic imperial inspector Tlcztinof from Alaska in ISOG iirj^eil upon liis t'ompany and his {^ovcrnnK'nt the importance of f'ountlinjjf a liussian estahlishment «»n the C'olumhia River, with a view of j^aininif exclusive ])<)ssession of the fur-trade. "To aecomplisli this it would Ix' necessary to huild as soon as possihle an aimed \n\ii; to (hive away the Bostonians from this trade forever. From the ( 'olund)ia we could i^radually advance toward the south to tlie port of San Fran- cisco, which forms the boundary line of California. I tiiiidv I may say that at the (' lunihia we could attract population from various localities, and in the course of ten years we should hecouie stroma enoui^h to mak<' use of any favorable turn in Euro[)ean poli- tics to include the coast of California in the liustsiaii possessions." "Captain Winship told Mr Baranof that last au- tumn sixty men had started from the Cnited States oveiland I.W settle on the Columbia Iliver, which V uld have been easier for us than aiiylxxlv else. The American states claim the right to thosi^ shoi'es, sayinu^ that the headwaters of the Columbia are in their territory; but on the same prinei]»le they could extend their possessions all over the world, wbcro tliere v.as no previous ]:An'opean settlement. ]^ui I think they have determined to settle there, because the S[)aniar(ls have opened to them four [)orts on the eastern sick' of America under the condition that llicy should not touch on their westei'U coasts.-^ This happened after Winshi[t's ik-parture from Bostoii, and is yet unknown to the American vessels Iici-c. Four ]joston .ships are at present cruisinu^ and tradin;^' in the sounds, namely: Captain lleale on the brig JJila;'^ Cajttain J*orter, brotlier of the one killed, on the shi[> Jldiiii/toii;'^'' Caj)tain JJrown ou tht.' ship ''' I j»osite Gray Harbor. We sent off a bidarka, in which I)r J jan!L»stain Kimball, said to havi> bi'eii a brother-in-law of ()'(*ain. Thouj^h l»ound for the north with sup- ])lies for the Russians, she attempted smugglinj^ — that is, applied for provisions — at several southern ports, and in conseijueir^-e lost four men, who were '"Kent out to meet Lewis niid Clurkc, but not arriving until after their departure, aceonling to *• _ Tile (f'Cai)i came back this year, havinj( left Boston ill Oetoher 1805, muler the connnand of Jonathan Winship, with Nathan Winship as mate. She had a force of thirty men, a co})peied l)ottom, not common in those days, and was sj)ecially fitted out for huntinLj a> well as trading. A hundred Aleuts with fifty hid.ii'kas were obtained at Xew Archaiigel in April, and .some attenn)ts at hunting were made on the way soiitliward. Winship's chief operations were confined, h(»\vever, to the Baja California coasts and islands, v.iiere he left his hunters and returned by the Sand- wich Islands to Kadiak with skins valued at .sf;o,000. '^ .\notlu'r vessel, not named, but conunanded by Cap- tain Cam})bell, possibly Kimball of the Pi'ucock, laade a contract in October for hunting on .shares, and came back to Alaska the next August with 12.30 skins.^ The Winships on the fJCani with a now party of fil'tv hunters left Kadiak in January 1807. Touchinijf at tlie Farallones, at the islands of the Santa Barbara Channel, and at San Pedro, Winshij) rejoined the hunters he had left on the })eninsular coast, where he rcTaained until April, and then returned to the north v.ith the whole force of Aleuts. There were over two hundred souls on board, two more at the end than at tlu' bcirinninsj: of the trii) northward, and the lo*' shows some narrow esca[)es from shipwreck on the wav. With a caru'o worth !?13G,000 the Odiin sailed ''■'Arch, ffj/., MS., Pror. St. P,ip., xix. l.%-8, 15:}-.-), 174-C; Prov. I,:,:, xii. 4(»; i'f'.i'i)iof\ Zniiiski, 'J7.'{. '••J ;•-■/,. ( V(/.", MS., /'/-oc. .SV. Pap., xix. liJO-SO, i:U-(>, Ul-.*}. The ciipUiiii's iiaiiie is cfillftl O'Ciiiii ami in ouo ))luce is written I'oeiiicar. '■ Jiostoii in the Northiri-st, MS., 1.V20 ; Khkbiiikof, Znpinki, 9-10, 137i Baii'iiiiij\ Sh'i-in'Ojii-isitHli', 107-8; Tikhmdnef, Ixtor. Obccrank', 1. 1G7. '"Khkbiiiku/, Ziqpiiiki, J). i 324 LAST OF THE EXPLORERS. iginnino of tlio for C'liina in October; and at tlio Ik next year started for }3oston in company wiili tlu Af(i/iH((/pft and Ai((fHstus, captains Sturi,ns and lliil.'"' Meanwliile the old commander of the ship, Josejjh O'Cain, was on tho J'Jcl ipse, a vessel chartered hy Uw. Ilusfsian company, which was wrecked among th»! Aleutian Islands in September of this year, the ( ap- tain and his men saving their lives after many hard- shi|)s.*" According to a Russian authority, ( 'aptain Swift in the Derhij made an otter-hantii>g trip to (California this year under an arrange nent similar to that of the Winships; but nothing further is known t)f the voyage except i\Ir Gray's statement that the Dcrhj/ e!itere«l the (\-)luml)ia ]liver the next yeai." Tht^ (iiKifiiiKizin, (illanville master, Lyman owner, l<^ft ]^oston in July ISO. J, and was on the coast *Vom March 1H07 to September 1H08. Slie entered t!i.' ( 'ohniibia, and her trading ojxrations extended i.p to !)\f .'{()'. On July 4tli the men had moose and sahi;on for dinner on the Columbia; and a pewti".- mi-dal \v;>.s found which Juul been given to the Indians by Lewis and Clarke." The Boston ships Pccwl, Captain Snter, and ]'(ii)- cofd'i't', Ca])tain Wliitteujore, owned and fitted out l»y l\'rkins, we»"e on the coast in 18()H- 9, according to Tufts and (irav- In tliesc vears also the Mrrci'ru, coinmaiided bv Geor WashiiiLrton Avri-s, was cii- gaged in hunting <»n shares under a <'ontract with the Kussiaiis. Captain Ayics lost some deserters in Caiilbiiiia; hut he obtained two thousand and eighty '"'/^.«^(/( hi thf Xortfni-rnt, MS., Vl-T,. TUc Atfihunl/xi is in 'JW'^' /.'>' for ISOT, "iwiifii liy Lyiiian. *"('niiiiilii ll'n I (///., !'(» ", 42 H. 'I'Ik' autlior Milfd on llii.s vcs-irl IV' wi Ciiina iiiiilrr tiic assuincil uiiiiu! of M'liiidi'. In .•j jmic < 7. I'.M. with n/ifxiiiii'i' 'if tlic irR'il:il ; '/'';(/'<' Li<>. .Mr TiiftM, who fmnishcil thf iitfuiiiiation imMisii' n liy S\v;iii, v.,m «iii|M'rcai-;;erienoed seaman and tra«ler, to make ohservations at vai' dus ])lii('es on the ncti'th-west coasts of America, and par- iiculaily at the liussian settlements, and to prep;n-o the way lor the. new estahlishments;" hut notIiin;jf further is staU-d ahout the V()ya_L?e." Captain Kuskof visited California in ISOU with a view to selectinjjf a sit(! for the proposed liussian settlement; hut he (Hd hot t(juch on the coast betwe.n Alaska and Tiinidad. In IS 10-1 1 four shij)s, the O'Gilii, Alhatros.<, h,t. hffld. and Mei'cm'ji, <'omn»anded respectively I>y Jon- ntlian and Nathan Winshi[», Williiim 11. Davis, and (jreoijjje W. Ayres, were engaged in hunting otters under JUissian contracts, Tiiev also did a very largo and proiitahle husiness in hunting fur-seals on the Farallonc's and at other i)oints. 1'heir hunting opera- tions were exclusivi-ly in soutjiern waters, and are recorded in another volume of this W(»rk/' Jt is proh- alfle that they traded to some extent in the north, hilt of their niovements on the Northwest Coast nothing is known beyond their trips to and iVo be- tween Alaska and Califoi-nia. Thern is, howevei-, one iinpi»rtant. exception to be noted in tlie case ol* this Afhafross. The \V inships had itlanned a permanent settlement oi *ra(nng-[)ost on the Columbia, and v.ith that end \n \'n ^^ Captain Nathan, on his first arrival fi'tini tlie Sandwii-h Islands, spent neai'ly two months, fioni May "Jiith to July I'Jth, in the river. A site was selected at a place called ()aU Point, on the sor.thi'rn haul:, alxait forty mile^; from the nioutli. .Xfter <-on- siderable ]»rogress had l»een made on a building, and in )tr('paiing land for planting, an inundation I'oiccd t hrm to move the foundation to ji higher spot nearby; and *' /liir(>; xii. 'js:M. 'Uiri< iihiiii'^M ih'. mill ''n/., -".(■">. *^!St;o //m<. VuI., ii., this HcritH. m LAST OF THE EXPLORERS. I, iH I' ; '.I 'I thon the liostilo attitude of the IiuHans orused the |>r(iijc"t to bo alKindoned alto;:fethor, .s'nice altlioiinli tlu' Indians nntain Ayrcs also entered the Cohnnhia in the Mcrcurif while Winship was there. It seems that Ayrcs took ten or twelye naiiyes from theNo()tka rcj^'ion to serye in the south as hunti'rs; and instead of hrinu^iiiL;' tiiem hack to their home, as he had jnomised, hi- left tliem on some desert islan«ls on the Californian coast.*" Kuskof starte«l this year on a new ex|)edition to (';il- ifoinia; hut touchinj^ at Queen Charlotte Islands he was attacked hy the Indians, who killed .seyeral <4 liis men and left hin> in such a <'ondition tliat he was forced to return to Alaska.*' liesid<>s th(^ four (»tter-huntin;j; craft in southern waters, fiye yi'ssels were seen in the sununer of Isl I at KaiiJ^an, in the north. These were the Ac/'* Jlnzuril, Captain Xyi-; the Li/ditt, (^iH)tain Hemiett; the Offrr, (*aptain Kill; and two ships, not named, imdei" captains l*oi-ter anii'ik"l\ /iiiiiiki, !( 10; ltiirtiiiiil\ Sfii:iiiiiiii ilii, MS,, 14. 'I'll"' writer'?! ^rutln'r, .luscpli, wiiv (.n Ifil. ( ',i|'t;iiii Hill is n|«iki'H of iirt father of tin' aetur \ known ita Viinktc liiU. I'lie liule \n uiven tut I61U. THE SHIP TOXQUIN. m The annals of tlie Pacific Fur Company and the foundation of Astoria on tlio (Columbia arc picscntcd fully elsewhere in this work; bare mention of the subject in its maritime jthases will suffice here. The ]>arty that actually founded the establishnuMit camo ill the shij) 7oin/i(iit, (.^aptain Jonathan Thoin, which left Xew York in Si'pteuiber 1810 and entered the river in Afarch 1811. After the crew luul .issisted ill the |>ieliininary work of the post, Captain Thorn sjiiled for the north to enj^aL(e in trade for the coni- p.iiiy. Two years later a native interpreter who had siiili'd on the vessel returned to Astoria with tho fdllowinjjf roj)ort, as quoted fron» (jlreenhow: "Tho Ti'iHfiiiii, after (piittin<^ the river, sailed northward aloiin" the eoast of the contin nt, and anchored, in tho middle «»'('. Fune, !8l 1, oj)posite a villaj^^e on the b;iy of Cl.iyocpiot, near the ontrarrce of the Strait of Fuca. SI le was tl lere immec liiitely surroun* led 1 )v trowus h of Indians in canoes, who continued for some d;iys to trade in the most pt'aceable manner, so as to disarm C.tptain Thorn and Mr McKay of all suspicions. At leip^th, either in conse(pience of an affnMit j^iveii by a ciiief to the captain, or- with the view of jihiiidering the vi'ssel, the natives embraced an ojiportunity when the men wt?re disi»ei*sed on or below the decks, in tl JO performance of their* duties, and in a moment |)ut to de.itli ever'\ one ol' tli«' er'ew and passengers, except the interpr"eter', who leaped into n canoe, and was saved by some women, and the eler'k, Mr- i^ewis, who re- ir-eati'd, with a few sailors, to the cabin. The sm\ ivors <»f the crew, by the eiiijiloynient of iheii- lir-e-arMiis, suc- ceeded in dr'i\in!^' the savaLil'es irom the ship; and, in tlic ni^lit, four of Ihtiii (|iiitted hc>' in a boat, leavinijf on lidard Mr Lewis and some other's, who w( re severely womided. On the Ibllowiiij;' tlay, the natives aLjain • •rowdi'd ar'oirrxl arrd on l>oar'd the Tnin/i'i'ii; and whiK; they wer-e eULfaj^ecl in r'illiiii;' hei', she was blown up, most probably by the wounded men left below deck. The seamen wl'o had endeavored to escape in tlio i 328 LAST OF THE EXPLORERS. l)oat were soon retaken, and put to deatli in a most cruel manner, by the Indian^ tlio»inter[)reter was pre- served, and remained in sla\ery two years, at tlie end of wliicli time lie was sutl'ered to dei)art."'''' It should also he stated here that a seh«>oner of thirty tons, the frame for which had heen l>roui,dit from New York, was laimche:'ems to have been his last visit to the western coas;, thoujj^Ii we shall meet the vessel au;ain.°^ Tlie onlv vess^jl known to ''U,'rfnilin,r'n Or. itinlCnI., .100; Imw/.i Asloi-hi, 4."» .S4, KW-Ki; (!;.l.ri.l Fraiiclii II' <:iiiii! nut oil till' Toiii/inii, unit in liis Xnrrnilrc of it, Vniiinji' j,'iv('i a full iK'i'diiMt of tlio ti'i)). TliiH IxMik, pp. I.Si) <), uIhd contains tlu; fuilt'st account of till! niiiMHiiciT, us rcportuil liy tiu; Intlian intt'r[nvtcr. ('i|il.'iiii Smith of t!n' . I ///•(/;-i).<.<, according,' to P'raiiclii-rc, attri))iit<-il tlic disaster iiiri^cly to tlio action of Caiitain Ay res of tlic Mii-niri/, who, as iilrfaily iioti'd, had taken ten or a do/eii natives of the Xootkii ri'^'ion a* htintci's, ami had laileil to return thcin to tlieir homes. I sliall tjive a full descrijition of llio voya^^^ ttlid captiiro of tlu^ '/'i/c/ii'// in coiini>ctioll with tliu Astol' expedilii HIS. '/•', i:i(). [ i|iiote from /»'o-.Vi/ l/ii' .\ort/iirinl, MS., |). TiS ct sec)., as follows: 'The i'a|ilaiii-> WiiiHliip retiir:ied to lioston diiriii;,' Isltiaixl ret in d from liio ■a. . ..Vnd now, in iiariin.L; \.'\iU the iiaiitical jNirt of Caittain ■lonathan Win nil as :i eommamlei lie '11 le writer wiis hliili's lilr, ti pasMiiii; trilmte u dm to I personally acijiMinted with him, and k>'^kte sta'^nation in maritinje all'aii's on the Northwest Coast. ( )nly two Vessels are known to have readied th ) Cohiiuhia ip ls|:5. Jt does not ai^ear tliat any lOnj^dish vessels !it this time were en.L(uii:ed in the i'ui--tra le; and tin; .\iiie»iean traders, reai'in;^' with much reason caj>tui-e hy l>riii>h cruisers, hastened to take rel'mji; in ncuti-al ports on receipt of the; news that hostilities ha San«lwieh J>lanf l»eing (•Mjitui'ed. and remained safely at Canton till tlu' war Was i>\fr, wlu'U he came home."'"" The (*'('ifiii ami Js(il)(//(i ai'e said to have heen hlockatled at the Sand- wii-h Islands for m-arly thre(> years, whih' the Clnmni was so unlucky as to fall into the hands of t'le foe.'* Another We^l knoV.n vessel of the lleef, elig;; ;;ed in the liussian, fur-hunt in^T, and contrahand mix ice, the i)f till' CDiitiiK'iit, lu' iftiinu'd tit tin' la («'iii. . . In liin native txwiiof r>ri;;lit>>n \'r laid - ilinii'fst jilatils iiinl :^linil>- l» r> . . . Hi < latiir Jiarn Wvw pciui tilljv >|m1i! aiii'Hi'; liiilsof lli, i ^ .. 11. ili<'<( mil ialile the life liiiw lieailtlli:! it-* eliru-.' -1 Ij.ij^ I '.IV \ tl !<• >>t II t-A ^ 1,11 t^.i I ', it rl ilitllil I}' III ii i>'iilt>l iillf iill lki'il>il III tl.i n> II (' .\ili'< iifiiii 1 I'll Ikr < 1111111411111 A'.'ci ;', eaaie ctut nil Ihianl nl tlii) iiti'i r. St'i) ll.Hil f I .h \lllV H I >l\ (till ic ■J!l.-| 'M\ AstHi'M letter, in A/., «4.»; t'l'iiii'lii ir'.i S'ir., I."il (il ; Irviiiiji* Axtitriiii 'Xi't S, KLVTH. A^t. letter ill 'irniiliiiir'.i Or. tlii'l < 'Hili|e that hIu' wuH ilutuiiieil iit tile IsIuikIh alter livr I e turn ti'uiu iliu L'oluiubitt iu li>l3. sno LAST OF THE EXPLORERS. I ^ Mftriii'ij, Jllt]l!)Unti seated as a snuiijj'lc'i'.'^^ Tin; <;ovei'innent at Washinj^ton oould send no protection eitlier for American sliip[»in«if in the western ocean or fortlie Aniei-ican tradinjL^-post on tlie ( 'olunibia, l']ni,dand increased the force of her Paciiic s(pia(b-on, and at last succeeded in capturinir tlie fri^Mte Esacx, Connnodore Porter, the only United States man-of-war in these waters. Meanwhile eaily in I H 1 .5 Mr Astor despatched the ship Lxi-k, laden with .supplies for the Columbia River; hut this vessel was V. recked at the Sandwich Islands, hoth Khi[) and cargo being a total loss.""* In June the AlhntrosH, Captain Winship, arrived at the Islands from the Indies with the news that war had broken out, and that fear of English cruisers had forced her and her three consorts — perhaps the Isn- hill<(, O'Ctiiii, anlumbia. She arrivv d at Astoria on the 4th of August, remaining in tlu' river until the end of tlie month. Meanwhile the n>sident ])artiiers and <»tlu'i-s liad determined to abandon thf |)ost in conse(|nen«e of the war. Mr Hunt was ;)blig.'d against his will to concur in tlii> K'soKc; and as ('aptain Smith's vessel was under tu- gagt^nents that did not ]H'i-mit her to wait and caiMV away the people and their etlUts as was •iesirecb the agent I'eturned on lier to tb Islands in search for anotiu'l- vessel to eiiect the r( luoval.'''' '•'For |particiiliirs sn' //^■^^ ''nl., iL, this xerius. ■^i\stiii's li'ttt r, as lii'tmo i-jtud. '•'^ I'm II 'III ri .1 \iir.; . nm»t FORT GKORCiR. 331 Besides the traders, most of wliicli manaufed to keep out of danj^er, the Columbia post v.as tiie only prize i'xj)()sed to ea[)turc by British cruisoi's. One of the several men-of-war sent to thf Pacific was lK.'rt MfXoill. innster, OctolitT I."), |SI7. I'lirjilxnit Hi'vc'ii yearsof tliin VDva.^'e lii' ciiuuiiaiiih'il f lio AIIkiU-c-', wliicli vissil w.is cmiiluvt'd iiltcxn, tour years of tlie tiim; in trauM|M)rtin,t5 snidal wood i\n\n tlic Sand\vii;Ii isla j Is to Canton, foi- cants Wni. H. |)u\i.s and .lima. Win- .sliiji . .Imt in consci|Ut'nce of tin- war. and tlif arrival of t!if Kn^Hsli ^sllK)|>;^(lf w.ir liiiirijiiii nui\ < 'III riih, tlio i-ontian tliiseiKist. Iv:.> ing gone ashoro in the lioat. he was taken prisoner \i\ the Spaniards with liis t-oiat's crew ,and after a iletention of two months wa.s released, uiid pioceeiled to tile Sunchsii'li Islands, w her«! he joined the shi|t "' 'mil, in which he came lionie.' (Hy the same authority it .Mpiiears that on his jiinth voyau'e on the /lunn n. which ii f* liostun in |S|7, he \> as wrecked .January '_'S. Islll. near Kaigan, among i lie Haidahs, losiuLrall his journalsof earlier \ oy- ages. lie returned to ImisIom mi IS'JO, ami sulisei(Ueiitly cai.ie to ('alifornia, whci«- he sjient the i>st of his life « hen jiot eng.iged in pleasure voyages on the l'aci!ic. Sonu'thing alMiut this man s lite u ill lie found in connection with the Itisliiriio/ i 'ii/ii'iiriiii. 'J"he author of linslun in llii Shi'Iiu'^I, MS., (»,'{ et se |., gives an .11 count ••( the s; nd.il Wood cont'';ict and the \\a\ it «as lii-oken. 'I'lie .[lliiilro.'.x ]ierhaps cari'icil the V\ inships hack to Moston in l>'l(i, and nevir Icturned to the I'aiitic. I ipi'le li oni this M>. a-i follow s ; 'The nierchants ot lloston sent out the fast sit'ling schoom-r '/'iniiii'iliiii'in/i to the I'jiiillc at the »Mmmencem»'nt of the war. to warn the .Vnierican ships on the north-west coast of their ilanger. The warning w.is a timely oui .ind those at the llns- sian ports, and at the Sandw i 'i Isl.'inds, mostly remained Jit the neutral jmi'tH uliere tile schooner found tin ■. Most of their furs and some ot then crews Were taken il«>wn to t'hina liy the 7'iii>i'--i/iiiiii'ili. under tin- commmd of e.ipt.iill I'ortei. The ship ./(f'()// ./«>;((.< was fitted out in Ivistoli, and sailed dining the war under tin- command of CaptuLa Holn-i-ts. .She was a heavily armed letter of laainue l>ouinl to (.'iiiiton." I f ■■ (1/. 332 LAST OF THE EXPLORERS. tradiii}^ craft lailcii witli rich furs as prizes."" From tlu! ('()lmiil)ia ihv If ticcoi HI ran down the coast, and ill the uiid[r Ifuntat the Ifawaiian Islands oh- tained the l)ri;;- Pcd/ci,^^ i\nd taUinj^ on hoard Captiiin Northrop with the survivors of the unf(»rtunate Aiuary IHI4, only to learn of tiuj transfer of the pi-oi>er(y to an English comj)any. lie accordin^^ly took on hoard a lew Americans who had not joined till' Noitliwcsf ('ompaiiy and pi'cferred a sea voyai^c! to tile ovi rland trip, sailin;^ early in Afiril for New York.'"' lie is saiii and other inen-of-war, hut jiarted from tlieiu hcfore entering the Pacific, and, having tonclie*! at .liian I'\'rnandez and the (;!allapagi>s, made her apjx'ar- ance at Monterey in .Tanuaiy IHI I, and suhsecjueiitly nut i\\v Hcurooii, perha|)s at San Francisco. The story (fi/ was iiii lOn-'lish merchantman l)ound to Manila 1"' )r a car* 'o of iva. She lost several deserters and left three men 1o ri'cover from the scurvy. Tlu' former wei(! ciirie'd ;i\vay hy thi> I'dccx^n; and one of the latter was dohn (Jilroy, the first permanent foreign resident of Cali- She finally reached l-'ort (leorge on tlu' 17th 1i>|-|||;|. "1" April, greatly to the relief of the comiKiny, several partners and cK-rks oi'whieli wei-e on hoard, as well .-is iiiueh lu'eded sii|)|.lies; and she Mxdi sailed lor China.'''' in I s I .') the Xoi't liwest ( 'onipany sent theirsehooner ('iiliiitil>n( down to ( aliioniia inidi'r the connnand of ( aptain .John Jennings. W'iiere this schoonei- canH; "'.I/./,. r,(/., MS,, I'm,'. SI. /'(I/... \\\. :ts:i; /,/., /;,„. .i///., xiv. :'. (i; J'l-iir. i;,,\, ix. i;!(); .I(v7i. Ar., MS., ii. Ktl. ''\l/v7i. I'ul.. MS., i'lor. SI. /'(ii>., xi\. .'UiS T'h /'n>r. /,Vf., \ii. 'J'.';! 7; Cn.r'n .|(/)v»., i. "J.S't (j; /•'ruiir/ii rr'.< S'ur., ItH. Cox j^'i\c< iiii iiiim.siii'.; m ciii'.nt I't' the iidvi'iit ' Inii.i ci;i the '/\i .'il, uiitl iliil licit tlie.vloiv liocoiut' a |>i.'riiiaiiciit ivnivkiit of tiio N' •nil west C'»iiHt. m i't LAST OF TIIK EXPLORERS. from (locH not appear, there hein^r a possiljility that it was the little />"////, purchased t'roin the Paeilic company with the other property. Jenninj^s had no trouble in j^ettintjf all the HUp[»lies he needed for his vessel, hut he failed in his ehief purpose, that of estai»lishin^ a rej^ular trade between Monterey and Fort (jleorj^e, and of leavin«^ an a^^ent in California. The Sj)aniards were suspicious that t'ontrahand and not le<,ntimate trade was the aim. (Governor Sola favoreil the traffic, hut would not pennit it without instructions from ^fexico; and those instructions, when they came, were unfavorable.*" Two Russian vessels, the Ch'u'ikof and I/iiu'ii, were in California this year, the latter beinj^ enijfaanish |)orts in these years, came at all into contact with the Englishmen of the Columbia, or even touched on the coast between the latitude of 42° and 55 . Notwithstandinuf the refusal of Governor Sola in 1815 to permit the establishment of trade between California and the Xoithwest Company at Fort CJeorijfe, it seems that the com])any's schooner was ex])ected to return in ISK't, and that the missionaries had promised a car<^o of })roduce in exchanjjfe for much needcid ^oods. The j^overnor indeed |)ermitted them to do so tinally, confessini^ to the Mexican authorities that he acteallv, but pleadim; urj^ent necessity. The Cohiiithia did not come, but in her place the Com- pany's bri«^ Coloiu'l, conunanded by Captain Daniel with McDoUi^all as su}»ercarjjfo. She arriv'ed at ^[()ll- terey late in August and obtained flour, wine, and otlur '•''Arrh. f'fiL, MS., I'rov. Si. I'(ii>., xix. ;W7 9, WS-O; /Vor. /.'"•.. i\. l.V>, \'.M; lhi,I.SI. /'(I/)., iv. l.")(i-S; dm rrii. Doc. Jllsl. Cul., MS., vii. II. Antonio Roclm, a l'iirtu},'ui'fie, was left in ('iilifornia on this trip. TIkj 8i'li(M)n(ir viijitcil lioilc^'a also. Ai'cunling to u statunicnt in Jtrnoks' ./(i/itui' sr Wniks, 10, till! Forn'stcr, Captain I'ickftt, was on the Californian iip;i-t tliis year; antl the Fonrtlcr is also nieutimieil as under the eonunanil of .luhu Jennin^'s in ISia. Tliere may bo some confusion of uume and vessels iiere. TIIK TUAVKLLKR. m a 111 Fort was iiii-'s mull ln'iii ities sity. 't)iii- lUH'l lOii- tlli'V III. 11. T1..3 \itiiii •"' l(lM>t '.lohu »r<)(Uifts to tlio valuo <»!' al>t)ut st'wnty tli(Misiin;<>liii«>' could not In; proved and the |)risoners were released, sailing on the /.i/dlti in March. The Afh<>frt. i. 0J-.">, 71, S7-1I7, I -JO I ; Arrh. Cil., MS., /Voc !!,<., ix. Ill "lO. '*AI/iiilriis.-i mill l.ijdiii. Colli II iiiriir'iiiint, «'to., M.S. A full uciount of tlio wlioK'all'air, svilli iiiiiiil'I'oiu iffi^i-ciicrs to original iiupcrs, isgivfii in lli»l. ('iil., ii., tlds sfiics. Si'f iioU' .V.lof llii.s c'liaiitcr I'ur luoiitiuii of Siiiilir« cai)tivity in u nuotatiou from A'i/w' IliyinUi: nsw IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I ^m m F liM |||m " 12.0 1.8 ■• 1.25 1.4 1.6 ^ 6" — ► Hiotographic Sdences Corporation ^ \^ « :\ \ lV €^ 6^ V ^'i%<^ #> 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER NY. 14580 (716) B72-'iiQi ^

    t in late years. It would seem that the Indians were as much in the dark on the subject as modern writers have been." ^^Wihox; Cartas Varia% 1817, MS. '"'Xoak [an inferior cliiet' willi whom tho Frenchman had much to do] gave nio iiii iioconnt of tho dcnth of ("anicnm [(\al!iciini], who v.iui killed ))y SlartiiieH, wlioiu he luul bitterly ro[)roiiche(l, enl'iiiij; him a rolibcr, on iiceninit of tho jilnnderinij; of .1 lint l)y his neojilc. Except this oflicer, tho iuitiVe3 speak veil of the Spaniards, and iiave adopted many words of their hni- gna«e.' i'o//., 2'J. '' 'Swanimilieh, . .lived at Tchinoidc, behind Cnpc Flattery,, .as'imcd 1110 that thei'c wero at that place four Americans, who were left by a ve.s.sel from New Yoik, lie nanu^d three very distinctly, Mes.srs Chirk, Lewis, and Kcaii. 'I'hcy luid a honaeof their own, in which they were to i)ass tin; winter: he ti Id me that sever;; I iiliipa came every year, and mentioned an l'"n ,liH!i ves-el c:ilk'd the (tirii)/.' Noiik told me that at Nootka 'the I']n,\;iisli foriiicilv had a lioune, that the .Spiviiiardu liud 11 larger one, but that both wereabandoUed. lie aildi'd thai thirty months l>cforu ni English N-easel had come into the cove, th<' captain M. CAMILLE DE ROQUEFEUIL. 'W ]w\, /(lis md ho ato lich ia\'o ll 1110 I'roiii \r;ili. t,M •;ill.-.l oil; L', (l.lr.l ptuiii After a trip to the Marquesas, wlicre lie met Captain Sowles, formerly of the Beaver, Roquefeuil came back to New Archangel in April 1818, where lie formed a contract to hunt sea-otters on joint ac- count M'itli the Russians. This enterprise having failed, the trading voyage was resumed, and the Bordelah coasting: southward reached the latitude of 55 about the middle of August. SI le entered Perez Strait under the American flag and otherwise dis- guised, in the hope of seizing Indians to be held i'or ransom, and thus avenging past wrongs at their hands; but this plan not being successful, Roquefeuil steered for Port Estrada and enijaijed in trade along the northern shore of Queen Charlotte, not with mucli profit for lack of suitable articles for barter. Passing down the strait between the island and the main, he arrived at Nootka on the 5th of September. !Maquinna gave his visitors a warm welcome, and though he had not collected the skins promised tlio year before, he showed an unabated willingness to t,' ' o receive [(resents. I append in a note some interesting items a1)()ut old-time happenings at this port as ob- tained from the aged chieftain." The southern ruler of which hail a wooden leg, and that he stopped only three days ; that before that, and after the departure of the Englisli and Spaniards, only two vessels hadeiiteail tlic 15ay, one English, tlie other American ; that they had anchored fit Mawina ; that at present, and for a long time since, liis countrymen sent tlio furs to Xnspati'- (iit the western extremity of the island), where they exclianged tiiem for liandsomer blankets than ours.' '^ ' He then explained, in a very intelligible manner, that he had concluded a treaty with the Spaniards, which he made us understand by signs, liiid been put in writing; tliat by tiiis convention he had ceded to them a piece of ground, on the coast of tlie Iwy, in return for a quantity of iron instruments, woollens, etc., which tiiey delivered to him at stated periods; that thvy lived together on the most friendly footing, (the Spaniards occupying one part of the cov(! ami the Indians the other); that tiiey had built large houses, and erected batteries upon tiie little Islands at tlie entrance ; that theii preseiico was very advantageous to liim, well as on account of the useful things which he reoeived from tliem, as the terror they inspin.'cl into his enemies. He ex- presseil great regret at their departure, sjioke in high terms of the com- luaudeis, Ciiadia, Alava, .•.nil Fidalgo, and gave to all the Spaniards in general, except to Martinez, praises. . .Maeouina spoke also in praise of Vancouver, liroughton, and the English captiiins who frerpicnted Nootka at tlie same time. He mentioned, among others, Meares, who, he said, had built a small house, in a place which he pointed out to me, in the western extremity of tlio village. I took this opporttuiity to ol)taiu, at tlu; fonntain-he:i'l, iiifoniiatioii on a subject which has liecomc interesting, on ace j«nt of the quarrel to which UiBT. N. W. Coast, Vol. I. ii 888 LAST OF THE EXPLORERS. Wicananish was understood to be still in power at Clayoqiiot Sound, but was not visited. Afhor a week's stay at Nootka, the Bordclais sailiid a<:fain for California, there to obtain with considerable dilficnlty a cargo of produce, whicli was carried to Sitka in Ov- tober; after which M. Roquefeuil, leaving the coast in December, sailed for the Sandwich Islands, China, and France, reaching home in November 1819, after a voyage of thirty-seven months around the world." In Alaskan waters Roquefeuil met two vessels which apparently had touched at ttifferent points below latitude 55° in 1817-18, though no particulars about their movements are given. One was the Boston brig Brutu.9, Captain Nye, which s(?enis to have traded on the shores of Queen Charlotte; and the other was the British brio; Cohnnhia, com- mander not named, which had left England in 1817, and had perhaps visited the Columbia River. The same vessel is said to have touched at INIonteroy in September, coming from the north.'^* Tlie oidy foreign trader of the year besides the Bordcla/s mentioned in the Californian records is the Clarion, Captain Gyzc- laar, from the Sandwich Islands, not known to have visited the northern ports, though she })robal)l3' did so." There are, however, both in Roquefeuil's narra- tive and in the Californian records a few van'ue alhi- sions to American trading craft not named, and which there are no means of identifying. it gave rise. The result of my inquiry was, that Mearea' house Iiad been built vith tlie jiermidsiou of Macouiua, liut that then; had not ))i'eu any actof ces- sion or treaty between them. These, then, are the buildings erectecl liy Means, and his riylita to ilistricta and portions of land, rights which JJugland pretends were tran.sl'en'ed to it by Meai'es, who went from ilacao to .Vnieiica, under tlu; I'ortuguesc flag, without any public character whatever. Such was t'.ic Buljject of the (juarrel, which was on the point of kiiidliuL; a war between tht;. three great maritime powers, in 1790, and for which France alone (itteil out 45 Bliipa of the line.' Toy., 90-7. '■Kl Voifiije round (he world between the years H^IG-ISJO. Jli/ M. Cinnilli>. . (1e Ho'iiiefi'iiil, in the shij) Le Jiordelain, Lcmdon, 1S23, 8vo, 1 12 pp. Tiiis work is printed in English as part of the A'cw Voi/ajen and Trcrdu, ix. The Frencli original, if any was published, I have not seen. M. Roi|Uefcuil gives inter- • csting deseri]itions of tlife various countries and peoples visited. '•lioiiuefend'n I'oi/iu/e, 81-2, 85, 107. ''■'Gtwn'u, Doc. hik. C'al., MS., iii. 110, 89-90. THE ONTARIO AXD BLOSSOM. 339 The United States sloop-of-war 0/j^«r/o, commanded l)y Captain J. Biddle, visited the Columbia in 1H18. ]^y the treaty ending the war of 1812 all places taken by either party during the war were to bo restored. Captain Biddle was sent as conunissioner for the United States to receive possession of Fort (Jeorge, which he did, in a manner not definitely de- scribed in any document that I have seen, on the Dth of August. Then the Ontario proceeded southward, touching at Monterey at the beginning of September.'^*' But Biddle's act not being deemed satisfactory iu all respects, the British frigate Blossom, Captain J. ]Iickey, sailed from Valparaiso for the Columbia, carrying also J. B. Provost as commissioner for the United States. These gentlemen, together with J. Keith of the Northwest Company, accomplished the restoration in due form on the Gth of October, the establishment remaining, however, as before, in tlio hands of the English company."^ The Blossom, like the Ontario, visited California on her voyage to the south, lier arrival at ^Monterey at the beginning of November bein.; Jjhi. Mil., xHx. 28, (fiirrra. Dm: Hist. ^''tl., MS., iv. 20-1. 'Vinoal ho Columbia con la comisioa du veriiicar su I'Utivga il los Americanos, ii cuyo fin conduce ;l los coiui.sionadoj por lo3 ll^itado.s Unidos, y Heguird su viage el 10 6 el 11,' writes (jlovernor Sola to Cuptaiu Guerra ou November 8tli. m LAST OP THE EXPLORERS. shore. The topic of the Oregon title also begins with 1818, the date of the first treaty between the rival claimants to this broad territory. Before proceeding to consider inland developments, however, I shall devote a chapter to the maritime fur-trade of past 3'ears. Herewith is appended a list of such vessels as have come to my knowledge that ui'o known to Iiave touched on the Northwest Coast from 1819 to li>40. It lias Ijeen niadi' up of such fragmentary records as could be found, many of them neither official nor accurate. The files of Sandwich Island newspapois were a useful source of information on this suhjcct after 1S.1G. Tlic C'nli- fornia arcliives also afforded some items not elsewhere appearing ; and it is IH'oliablo that others of the vessels named in the California annual lists — for which see another volume of this series — slioiUd be added to this, but there are no means of knowing which ones. Printed memoirs of the Oregon missionaries contain some names; the Hudson's Buy Company's archivis others; while I have a few old log-books or fragments; and for the rest mc are obliged to depend on the manuscript reminiscences of men who in those days went down to the sea- in ships. I do not include in the list the Rus- sian vessels iilying eacli year between Sitka, Ross, and the Spanish ports of California, often extending their trijis to Mexico, South America, Asia, oi- the islands; nor do I mention the whalers that visited the north Pacilic in great nund)ers, and are recorded as touching in California and the Sandwich Islands; though it is likely that some vessels of l)oth these classes touchdl from time to time on the coast, between latitude 42' and 5o°. I shall luivo occasion to present more details respecting many oi the vessels an-8.] Griffon, M.T. Pcirce, Boston brig, owned byBryantand Sturgis; engaged in trade on the Northwest Coast. Henry A. I'eirco, brother of the captain, was on board, and gives a full account of the trip in his Meinoraniia. fKS"27.] Cudhoro, Simiison, British schooner, from Columbia lUver; in California in December. [1SiJS-.jO.] Volunteer, Seth Barker, owned by Bryant and Sturgis. Adire, Cotting or Cotton, owned liy William Baker and Company. Louisa, Martin, owned by William Baker and Company. Ou-jihce, Kelly, owned by Josiah ^larshall. [1828.] William «fc Attn, Hudson's Bay Company's vessel; wrecked insiilb the Columbia bar. [1829-30.] Owyhee, Dominis, Boston ship; traded in Columbia lUver. Convoij, Thompson ; with the Oirijhee. [1830.] TmMla, Hudson's lisiy Company's brig; castawayinColum1)iaI!ivcr. [1831.] A Japanese junk wrecked on Queen Charlotte Island, according to Mr lirooks. [1831-2.] Dryad, English brig; in California from the Columbia Kivcr both years. [1833.] Another Japanese wreck near Cape Flattery. [1834.] Llama, or Lama, William O'Neill, Hudson's Bay Company's brig ; in California for sup})lies, from Columbia Kiver. M(ti/ Dacre, Laml)ert, American brig ; in Columbia Itiver for trade and Balnion. Europa, Allen, Boston trader on the const, according to KcUey's Memoir, [183.J.] Muij Dacre, still in the river; Wyeth owner and agent. Oani/nu'.de, Eales, Hudson's Bay Company's bark ; in Columbia River. Dri/iid, Keplin; left Columbia Biver for Sandwich Islands. [1330.] Joseph Peahody, Moore; arrived at Honolulu from Northwest Coast and Kaignn, sailing for New York. Cdhimhiii, Darby, Hudson's Bay Company's bark; at Honolulu from Co- luml)ia Kiver. At Honolulu again under Captain Royal in December, isiid sailed for London. N< riid. Royal, Hudson's Bay Company's bark; arrived at Honolulu fi'om England, and arrived at Columbia River in August. Llirma, McNeill ; in Columbia River and at Kaigan. Europa, Williau) WLnkworth ; from Honolulu to Northwest Coast and to Monterey. Lortot, Nye, Blinn, anack. Lii OraiKje, Snow, Boston ship ; at Ho jolnlu from Kaigan and other porta ou Northwest Coast. Jicdver, Holms, Hudson's Bay Company's steamer; iu Columbia River, the first steamer to visit the coast. [1S37.] Llama, Bancroft, Sangstcr, Brotcliie. and McNeill; from Colum- bia River to Honolulu and California. X< reid; still in Columbia River. Cwlboro, William Brotcliie, Hudson's Bay Company's schooner; made a trip from Columbia River to California. Loriot, liancroft; from Cohunbia River to California and Sandwich Islands; also a trip to Mazatlan under Captain Handlcy. Sumatra, Duncan, English bark; carried missionaries from Honolulu to Columbia River. Hamilton, 8. Barker, American sliip; trading trip from Honolulu to the Northwest Coast. Jj'iKva, William S. Hinkley, American brig; carried missionaries from Honolulu to Columbia River ; trip to Co,lifomia ; name changed to Kamamulu. iSiilphiir, Edward Belcher, H. B. M. ship; ou an exploring voyage round the world ; spent a week in Nootka Sound. StarliiKj, H. Kellett, H. B. M. exploring ."chooner; iu company with tlio Suliihiir, [ I .S;{8. ] Llama, Bancroft, later Robinson and Perrier ; hunting and trading trips to California and Sandwich Islands. Xd-dd, Brotcliie; at Honolulu from Columbia River, also in Califoruiu. Cadboro, Robbins ; in California from Columbia River, Jo.M'ph Pealioily; engaged in fur-trade, according to Kelley's Jfemoir. Cohtmliia, Humphries; from England to Columbia River and return via Sandwich Islands. [IS.")!).] Nereid, Brotcliie; trip fron; the Columbia River to the Islands aud back. Vanconver, Duncan, Hudson's Bay Company's bark; from London to Co- lumbia Iviver and back to Honolulu. Thomas Parkins, Varney; left Sandwich Islands for Northwest Coast to trade. Joseph Peahody, Dominis ; trading on Alaska coast and perhaps further south. Sulphur, Belcher; in Columbia River, July to Sijptember. Stnrl'nKj, Kellett; with the preceding. [1S40.] Columbia, Humphries; iu California, Sandwich Islands, and Cd- lumbia River. Foraijer, Thompson, English brig; left Honolulu for Columbia River and California. Lausanne, Spaulding, American ship; in Columbia River, California, aiu'. Saudwicli Islands ; settlers and missionaries. Maryland, Couch, Boston brig ; iu Columbia River, trading for sahnon. CHAPTER XI. THE MARITIME FUR-TRADE. 1778-1846. The Sea-otteh — Commentaries rrox It — The RrssiAN BEnivNixos — TiiK Ciuxe.se !Makket — Cai'Taix Cook's Dlscoveuies — Bolt.s' Kxteu- I'KISE— .lOHX LeIjYAUD AND HIS I'LANS — Ax EcX'EXTUlO YaXKEE— DlS- hkahtexixc Failpues — English Efeokts from India — ILvxxa and Ills l\)LI.O\VE]tS — Ix LOXDOX — I'ORTLOCK AXl) DiXON — FllEXCII InVES- TIliATIOX — La rEUOrSE — MaUCHAXD'S Exi'EUIEXl'E — iJEIilXXIXdS AT Boston — Kexdkick axd Gray — Roctixe of the Trade — Enclish- jien vkksis a.merit'ax.s — perils of the bcsixkss — character op THE Natives — ^^Ietiiods of Barter — Articles Desired — Statistics — The Trade in California — The Exglisu CoMrAXiES— .Americaw Devices — Declixe of the Fcb-trade. The liome of the sea-otter was in the waters of the Northwest Coast, Alaska, and the Siberian islands. Tlie fur of this amphibious animal, the most precious of all peltries, was the attraction that brought to these shores all the adventurous navigators whose exploits have been brieily recorded in the preceding chapters. A few did not engage directly in the fur-trade; but all such, with the possible exception of Captain Cook, came because of the operations of the fur-seekers. jMucIl has been said bearing on this branch of commerce in tlie descrii)tion of successive voyages; but it seems proper to devote a chapter to the general to[)ic, and to give the inlbrmation mainly in the words of the participators and writers, the same for the most part tliab hove been so often cited l)efore in this volume. Cook describes as follows the first sea-otter seen by him at Xootka, he having had some doubt before (343) |l III ■'!! J* m THE MARITIME FUR-TRADE. if the skins were really those of that animal : "It was rather youn«(, weighin_Lf only twenty -five pounds; of a shining or glossy hlack colour; but many of the hairs being tij)t with white, gave it a greyish cast at first sight. The face, throat, and breast were of a yellow- ish white, or very light brown colour, which, in many of the skins, extended the whole lengtli of the bcllv. It had six cutting teeth in each jaw; two of those of the lower jaw being very minute, and jJaced without, at the base of the two middle ones. In these circum- stances, it seems to disagree with those found b}' the Russians; and also in not liaving the outer toes of the hind feet skirted with a memljrane. There seemed also a greater variety in the colour of the skins, than is mentioned by the describers of the Russian sea-otters. These changes of colour certainly take place at the different ijradations of life. The very young ones had brown hair, which was coarse, with very little fur underneath; but those of the size of the entire animal, whicli came into our possession, and just described, had a considerable quantity of that substance ; and both in that colour and state the sea-otters seem t*^ remain, till they have attained their full growth. After that, they lose the black colour, and assume a deep brown or sooty colour; but have then a greater quantity of very fine fur, and scarcely any long hairs. Others, whicli we suspected to be still older, were of a chestnut brown; and a few^ skins were seen tliat had even acquired a perfectly yeUow colour."^ "A full grown prime skin," said Ca[)taiii William Sturgis of Boston, an old trader, '* which has been stretched before drying, is about five feet lonuf, and tw^uty-lour to thii'ty inches wide, c(^vered with very fhie fur, about three-fourths of an inch in length, having a rich jut black, glossy surface, and exhibiting a silver color when ))lown open. Those are esteemed the finest skins which have some white hairs interspersed and ' Cook's Voi/arje, ii. 29r>-C. An otter taken by La POrousc and apparcntlj full sized weighed 70 pounds. La Pc rouse, Voyaijc, ii. I7(i. THE RUSSIAN TRAFFIC. MT scattered over the wliolo surface, and a peifectly white liead. Mr Sturijis said that it would now _!;ive liim more j)lcasuro to look at a splendid sea-ottiT skin than to examine half the pictures that are stuck up for ex- ]ubiti()n,and })u{red up by pretended connoisseurs."'' There were other valuable furs in the country besides that of the sea-otter, and which wei'e piotit- ably exported in connection with the latter; but tliero were none which of themselves would in tlic early years have brouufht the world's adventurous traders on their long and perilous voyages to the coast. The j'ur-seal, however, was taken in largo numbers; and in later years yielded greater profits, on account of its greater abundance, than the sea-otter. On their first trips to the new continent and islands the Ilussians discovered the existence of tlie precious fur, and after 1741 these people, embaiking i'roni Siberia in their crazy craft, engaged actively in the hunti The product was collected in the Ka nchatkau ports, and transported by land, a ])art to llrssia, but most to Kiakhta on the frontier, where they were ex- clianged for Chinese goods, which were carried over- land to Europe. Notwithstanding the distances and consequent expense of transportation, making the price of a s'iin at least three times as much at Kiakhta as at Okhotsk, the traffic was a profitable one.^ "Furs '^ S/iirnin' Xorthwcit Fur Trade, .").'J4. 'They arc sometimes seen in;iny lc;i<,'uc.s from lantl, sleeping on tlieir backs, on tlio surf.ac of the v.ater, with their young ones reclining on their breast. . .Tiie euli.-i are ineapahlo of swiiuniiiig till they are several niontiis olil. . .She will not leave heryiuuig one;* in the moment of danger, and therefore shares their fate...Th(y are niialjle to remain under water longer than two minutes. . .Tiie male otter is, beyond all comparison, more beautiful than the female. . .Skins of tld:* animal talicn in the Corean and .Japan seas, arc superior to tliose of llunsia or the North Western Coast of America.' Mtarc.'i' I'oi/., "241-4. ' Xothing can bo nioi'c beautiful than one of these animals when seen sv.iinuiing, esiiecially when on the lookout for any object. At such times it raises its head fjuito above the surface.' JewUl's X^ar., 07. See full description, with tjuotatiuna from various authors, in ^[urchuml, Voywjf, ii. 29-.'i7. ' The llussian fur-trade of the extreme north will be fully treated in a later volume on the History of Alaska. Coxe'/i Iiunsian JJinnin ricn, Londun, IT-ST, is til!' authority by which this trade was made known to the woild. Coxe men- tions a specimen cargo of furs yielding about §."iO,()00 in Kamchatka. Ir\ ing, Aduiki, 33, takes the followiug view of the overland tiausit: 'The llusaiaua I MO THE MARITIME FUIl-TRADE. form llio j)iiiifiptil and favorite dress of the iuliabi- taiits of the Northern iiroviiures of China; and tlioso of the rai'ist kind and tiie hij^hest j)riecs are eaj^erly j»ur('has;'(l hy them. — From five hundred to one thou- sand ddllars, and even a larj^er sum, are frequently paid i'or a !-;inu;le suit of this i)reoious cloathing." In tlic southern provinces also everybody wlio can aflbi'd it has a sea-otter cape at a cost of $0. And after tlie nevv' system of importation had l)een introduced, "tlie repulalion of the sea-otter skins brouu^ht. . .the Northern Chinese and Pekin mcrcliants to Canton, a port Avhich they had never befin'C visited, and at the distance of near one thousand miles from the places of their residence. — Yet. . .they found it answered to their entire .satisfaction, from bein<^ able to obtain thi^ .same species of furs which they had been accustomed to purchase at Kiascha, at a price so much below tlie usual rate of that market. They arrived at Canton laden with teas, silk and ivory; and took back in retm-n furs and broadcloths."* Yet the Cliinese, with all their extravagant fondness for fur.s, by their peculiar commercial ])olicy involving many burdt'U- some restrictions, made the fur-trader's road to for- tune by no means a straight and pleasant one. Wliat "was learned from ,no works of Coxe and others respecting the Kussian trade with China, seems to have made no sensation in European commercial circles until veiilied and amplified by the reports of hail t!io iiilvnnta^o over their competitors in the trade. The hitter had to tiikc tln'ir iH'Urici to Canton, whicli, however, was a more receiving mart. . . Tiic ];ii;.-i;ins, on the contrary, carried their furs, by a shorter voyage \':\ directly li> the northei'n parts of the Chinese empire ; thus hein:^ able to allon I tliciii in the niailict witliout the aiUlitional cost of internal transportation.' Crccnhow writf.i: 'Tho trade in furs had 1)ccn conducted, ahnosfc wholly, by tlio liritirtli and tho liussians, between whom, however, there had lu'cn no opportunity for competition. Tho Russians procured tlicir furs chielly in the uorliicrn ]iarts of tlieir own empire; and they ex])ortcd to China, by huid, all such as were not required for tlieir own use. The British market w:i.s Buppliiil entirely from Hudson's Bay and Canada; and a great portion of the sjkuis there collected was sent to Russia, whence many of t'acni found their way to China, though none had ever been shipped directly for the latter country.' Or. iiiKlCdl., KJl. * JJmu Li'' Accvuiit o/'(/ie 'I'rade, etc, Ixxxvi, A PnOPER OUTFIT. 347 and fcreial an EiiLflisli voyager. Captain Cook's spoclal jjuiposo ill liis expedition of 1770-80, so iar as nortli-westei-u Anieiica was concerned, was to find a passage to tlio Atlantic, lie did not succeed in o[)eiiiiig a chaiiael l»y which Canadian and Hudson Bay furs niiL,dit ho ncut direct to China by water; hut ho found wliat j)i'oved to be a richer store of furs than that on the Atlantic coasts, and he eventually found a good market. The explorer and his men obtained from tho na- tives at Nootka and other points a quantity of sea-otter skins, of whose real value they hnd no pio[H r i,jea. ^Most of the furs had been injui'ed by being niiJe into garments; they were used for bedclothes on the voy- age and preserved with but little care; " o tliirds of tliose obtained were spoiled or given away in Kam- cliatkn. i!id it was thouijht that the full vah' 3 \.'as not obtamcd in China; yet the renniant was sold for about ( II thousand dollars. Little Avonder that, as Ca^)tain Iviug says, "the rage with which our seamen were })()ssessed to return to Cook's River, and, by another cargo of skins, to make their fortunes, at one time, Avas not far short of nnitiny; and I must own, I could not help indulging myself in a project," which was to have the work of exploration untlertaken in connection with the fur-trade by the ]i!ast India Company, in two vessels of one hundred and one hundred and hl'ty tons which could be fitted out at a cost of six tliousand l)()un(ls. "Each ship shoidd have five ton of un- wrought iron, a forge, and an expert smith, witli a jinuMieyman and apprentice, who might be ready to forgo such tools, as it should apjiear tho Indians were most desirous of. . .It is well known, that tlie fancy of these people for articles of ornament, is exceed in;,',ly capricious; and that iron is the only sure conunodii^y for their market. To this might be added, a few gross of largo pointed case-kni.os, some bales oi' • •oarso woollen cloth (linen they would not acco;)t from us) and a barrel or two of copper .aid glass ^f 343 THE MARITIME FUR-TRADE. tr-iiikots." This enterprise was to be directed eliiefly to the Alaskan coast." "The last voyage of that renowned l^ut unfortunate discoverer, Captain Cook, had made known the vast quantities of the sea -otter to be found along tluit coast, and the innnense ])rices to be obtained for its fur in China. It was as if a new gold coast had been discovt'red. Individuals from various countries dashed into this luci-ative traffic," says Irving; and Dixon, "A new and inexhaustible mine of w'calth was laid open to future Navigators, by trading for furs of th(3 most valuable kind, on the North West Coast of Amer- ica." The information gained by Cook "became gen- erally diifused before the publication t)f the jU-uii'if\'oi/0(jc,i). is. ; O'niii/iow'ii (Jr. uiilI t'al., 100-1. BOLTS AlH) JOHN LEDY^UID. 349 over, vor)^ little is known, was that of William Bolts, wlio as earl}^ as 1781 is said to have "iitted out the (.'ohciizcU, an armed ship of seven hundred tons, for tlie north-west coast of America. She was to have sailed from Ti-ieste, accompanied hj^ a tender of forty- five tons, under imperial colours, and was equally fitted out for trade or discovery; men of eminence in evei-y department of science were engaged on board; all tlie maritime courts of Euroi)e were written to in order to secure a good reception; yet, after all, this expedi- tion so exceedingly promising in every point of view, was overturned by a set of interested men, then in power at Vienna."'' John Ledyard was an eccentric American, a native of Connecticut, and educated at Dartmouth, who in his search for adventure had served as corporal of marines during Crook's vova2:e, an account of wliich he ])ul)lished. The prospective excitement and pi'<»iits (if the fur-trade in the new regions visited made a lasting im])ressi()n on his mind; and on deserting from the l^ritish naval service in 1782, being then thirty-one 3'ears of age, almost Avithout a dollar, he ])roceeded to devote himself with all the enthusiasm of his nature to "the greatest commercial enterpi'ise that has ever been cnd)arked on in the coimtry; and one of the first moment as it respects the trade of Ameiica"— that is, the fur-trade on the Northwest Coast in American vessels. '' It was clear, then-fore, in his mind, that tlu.'V, who should first en«jfaart of the cartxo," besides "an allowance of mon'v ;,uili{ient for his maintenance;" but Jones was calL\l away from ]*aris on otlier business and his ardor in the new en- terprise cooled with reflection. Alter an unsuccessful attempt to organize a. com- mercial company in Paris, writes Thomas Jeilerson, " I then proposed to him to go by land to F\am- cluitica, cross in some of the Russian vessels to Nootka Sound, fall down into the latitude of tlio :y 352 THE MARITIME FUR-TRADE. Missouri, nnd penetrate to and througli that to the TTiiited States. He eagerly seized the idea, and onh' asked to l)e assured of the pcriiiissiou of the Russian goveriuneiit." The desired permission was obtained from the empress after sonic delay. Meanwhile Led- yard went to London, where a more direct means of accomplisliing his purpose presented itself He actually emharked on an English ship for the North- west Coast. His plan was to land at Nootka and thence "pursue his course, as fortune should guide him, to Virginia;" l;ut "the vessel was not out of sight of land, before it was brought back by an order from the government, and the voyage was finally broken oft'." Then Sir Joseph Baid-cs and other prominent English- men raised a little money by subscription, and Led- 3'ard went to Hamburg, and started on a tri[) by land to Siljcria. He reached St Petersburg, after many adventures, in the spring of 1787. There he obtained his passport, and proceeded to Yakutsk, in Siberia. His usual ill-luck did not desert him, for while win- tei'inir so near his destination ho w^as suddenly ar- rested in February 1788, in accordance with imperial secret orders, and carried to Moscow and to the fron- tiers of Poland, the reasons for his arrest not being known. The empress claimed to have been actuated by humanity; but it is not unlikely that the explorer was stopped through the machinations of the Russian- American Fur Company. Ledyard reached London in IMay, and was soon reconnnended "to an adventure almost as perilous as the one from which he had returned," namely, the exploration of the African interior under the aus])ices of an English association. "When he returned to Paris," writes ]\Ir Jefterson, "his bodily strength was nuich im])alred. His mind, however, remained firm. and he after this undertook the journey to Egy[)t. I received a letter from him, full of sanguine hopes, dated at Cairo, the fifteenth of November, I78S, the day before he was to set out for the head of the ENGLISH EFFORTS. 353 Nile; on which day, however, he ended his career and hfe: and thus failed the first attempt t(j explore the western part of our northern continent."* "The Russians were the first to avail themselves of Cook's discoveries," says Grecnhow — that is, his dis- covery of the sea-otter to the south of Alaska — hy ori^anizing a fur company in 17»1, leading to Shelikof's expedition. Otherwise, and disregarding the vuisuc- cessful efforts of Bolts and Ledyard, the first to en- gage practically in the new branch of trade were Enuflish merchants residing in India and China. The chief obstacle encountered by them arose from the giout monopolies, the East India and South Sea com- panies; and they were obliged to resort to various more or less irregular expedients, notably that of sailing under other than English colors. Captain Hanna made the first trip in 1785 from China, and was followed by several others whose voj'ages have already been described. All, save one oi- two who were shipwrecked, seem to have 1 ocii successful from a conunercial point of view. Meares was tl/^ only one of the number who published an account of his adventures: and notwithstandinij: the disastrous ter- niination of his own enterprise, arising from Spanish intei'ference, he was very enthusiastic respecting the future benefits to be derived by Great Britain from the fur-trade.^ Captain Barclay also made a trading ".S'/OTr/i'.s' Life of Labjard, passim; Jefferson' i^ IJfv of LnrU, in Lnrh avd Cl'ir/.r't E.rped., i. "MoaiTj. Account ^ in this trade to a French com- pany. Such were his views as expressed in a memoir written in December 1786, on the way from California to China. He had no doubt that sea -otter skins might be obtained in unlimited quantities; indeed so plentiful was the supply that the Chinese market in his opinion could not possibly maintain prices on a profitable basis. Moreover, he feared that an estal> lishment on the coast might cause trouble with the courts of Madrid or St Petersburg. He gave, how- ever, an approval of private experimental expeditions undertaken by French traders. ^^ "ia Pdrouae, Voyage, i. 29-30; iv. 165-7; Fleurieti, ia Marchand, Voyage, cxii.-cxvii. ^'^La Pironse, Voyage, ii. 176. ''■^LaPirovse, Mdmoire sur lecommerce des peaitx de loutre de mer, in/d. , Voy. , 163-1 72. ' QuelqiiY'teuclu que soit I'empire de la Chine, il me parait impossible que les peaux de loutre s'y mantiennent & tr6s-haut prix, loraque les ditferentes nations de I'Europe y en apjiorteront en concurrence.' ' J'ai beaucoup rt5Hei:hi Bur le projet d'une factorerie au Port des Fran(;'ais ou dans les en%'irons ; ct j'y trouve de tr6s-grands inconvt^niens, h cause de I'immense 6loignemuiit ou cc comptoir se trouverait de I'Europe, et de I'incertitude des r^sultats do co commerce h la Cliine, lorsquc les Espagnols, les Russes, les Anglais et les Fran^ais y apporteront en concurrence ces peaux, qu'il est si facile de se pro- curer sur toute la cOte. On ne pent d'ailleurs douter que notre compagnie dfs Indes ne rdclamftt contre le privilege qu'il faudrait accorder aux armateurs f)our qu'ils pussent faire leur vente k la Chine. . .Ces privileges exclusifs tueiit e commerce, comme les grands ai'bres <5touffent les arbustes qui les environ- nent.' 'Ainsi, en resumant les diff(5rens articles de ce m(5moire, mon oi^iniou est qu'on ne doit point encore songer & I'dtablissement d'une factorerie. qu'il LA PliJlOUSE AND MARCHAND. 8S7 111 on a ;alj- tho liow- tions Vo;/., Dssible rentes) tSfltichi lis; ct emciit (le CO et lea le pio- ie lies ateurs tuent (Virou- inioii quil The papers of La Porouse's expedition not having been published, " French commerce," writes M. Fleu- rieu, " had not been able to engage in any enterprise of rivalry with that of other nations in the fur-trade. It would have been rash indeed to engage without preliminary examination in speculations which would require in order to be realized that vessels should make voyages round the world. Before embarking in this new career it was essential that our merchants should have been able to procure data nearly accurate, which on the one hand might put them in a condi- tion to form a plan on the conduct to be observed with the Americans of the north-west coast, and on the selection of merchandise necessary for barter with them, and which on the other hand might give them a glimpse of the profits to be expected from the second exchange of American furs for Chinese productions." But Captain Marchand met Portlock in 1788, and obtained from him such information as to induce a French house to make the venture in 1790-1." Marchand obtained a fair quantity of furs, but on carrying them to China in 1791 he found that an order had been issued prohibiting any further introduc- tion of peltries into the ports; therefore they were carried home and deposited at Lyons, where they were destroyed by worms during the siege of that city, involving the owners in a serious loss. Marchand confirmed the ideas of La Perouse as to the abun- dance of sea-otter skins ; but he also feared that the n'est pas mfime temps d'lJtablir line compagnie exclusive pour faire ce com- merce .'i ravcnture ; qu'on doit encore bien moiiis le confier k la compagnie des ludes, qui ne le ferait pas, on le ferait mal, et en d(?goflterait le gouveriienient ; luais fju'il conviendrait d'engager ime de nos places de commerce ^ essayer trois expeditions, en lui accordant la certitude d'un fret en Chine.' M. Mon- neron, chief engineer of the expedition, regards a French fur-trading post as inexpedient, and is ready to argue the case if the government so desires. He says also that La Perouse wrote a paper against such an establishment. 'II n'est pas difficile de pr6snmer que I'dprct^ de ce climat, le peu do resources de ce pays, son eloigiiement prodigieux de la metropole, la concurrence des llusses et des Espaguols, qui sont places convenablement pour faire commerce, doivent Oloigiier toute autre puissance europt-enne que celles que je viens de nommer, de former aucun 6tablissement entre Monterey et I'entr^e du Prince- Williams.' JiL, iv. 120-1. ^*Fleurieu, clxxxiv.-v. IP 889 THE MARITIME FUR-TRADE. i trade would not be permanently profitable, thouirli lie had no doubt the Chinese prohibition would l)o evaded, unless it could be regulated and systematized.'* There was another French trader on the coast in 17D2, but nothing definite is known of results. It was in 1788 that the Americans began their fur- trading operations on the coast by the expedition of Kendrick and Gray, fully recorded elsewhere in this volume. In the Coolidgc building, opposite the Revere House, Boston, writes Bulfinch, "was assembled, in the year 1787, a group, consisting of the master of the mansion, Dr Bulfinch. his only son Charles, and Joseph Barrell, their neighbor, an eminent merchant of Boston. The conversation turned upon the topic of the day, — the voyages and discoveries of Capt. Cook, the account of which had lately been published. The brilliant achievements of Capt. Cook, his admirable qualities, and his sad fate. . .these formed the current of the conversation ; till at last it changed, and turned more upon the commercial aspects of the subject. Mr Barrell was particularly struck with what Cook relates of the abundance of valuable furs offered by the na- tives in exchange for beads, knives, and other trifiing commodities valued by them . . , Mr Barrell remarked : ' There is a rich harvest to be reaped there by those who shall first The idea thus sucrsrested was go m. ^_ .^_ . .„^^. followed out in future conversations at the doctor's fireside, admitting other congenial spirits to the dis- cussion, and resulted in the equipping of an expedi- tion," by Messrs Barrell, Brown, Bulfinch, Darbv, Hatch, and Pintard.^*' It is not unlikely either that ^^Marchand, Voyage, ii, 308-72, 391-4, 521-2. He learned also that the year before the average price had been forced by competition down to tif- teen dollars. Nothing of the prohibition appears in the statements of otlicr traders of the year. 'Alais le commerce dca FouiTiires a des limites fixd'ea j):ir la Nature et par la Raison : . . II est aisi! de concevoir que la nouvelle intro- duction de I'elleteries par la voie de mer et lea Ports du Midi de la Chine, cii appelant les Anglais, les Ami'^ricains, les Fran(,'ais, les Espagnols et les I'or- tugais an partage de ce commerce, en les faisant entrer en coneuiTence et on rivalitt? uvec les llusses, doit faire descendro les marchandises qui en sont Tob- jet, il des iirix qui ne pn'senteront plus uil btinefice suiiisant,' etc. ^''liulJiucWii Oreijoii and El Dorado, 1-3. SOLID MEN OF BOSTON. S88 Lodyard's old-time enthusiasm had loft an infliicnco still more or less potent in the minds of Boston's solid men. Though figures are lacking, this first venture is said not to have been profitable, and some of the partners Avitlidrew from the enterprise; but the rest persevered, and others entered the new field with largo but vary- ing success. Perkins, Lamb, Dorr, Boardman, Lyman, and Sturgis are names connected with firms that are said to have made fortunes in the fur-trade. Down to 1788-9 there had been fourteen English vessels en- Cfaged in the trade; but from 1790 to 1818 there were one hundred and eight American vessels and onlv twenty-two English, nearly all before 1800, with three French, and two Portuguese, so far as recorded, though the list of all classes, particularly of the British craft, is doubtless incomplete. Indeed very little is known in detail of Enjjlish ventures in this direction after the Nootka controversy of 1789-95; but it appears that the trade was gradually abandoned by reas ^^Irviiu/s Atitorla, anclado en aquel ^mc. Potcncias con el fin de c todos t'stos A la crecida tiencn subre nuestras c valor no es mas que tres Fur Trade, 534-6. 'The direct trade between the •ina remained, from 179G to 1814, almost entirely, . . . IS of the United states. ' (.Irceuhow^nOr. and (Jul., -CO. -3. 'Desdo el afio de 1787, hasta el presento liun [Nootka] veinte y ocho cmlKircaciones de varias icrciar con los Imlios de totla lacosta. . .atendiendo didad que les promete el comercio clandestino que tas, pues por un pequefto pedazo de cobre, cuyo fales en Niieva-Kspafla, logruu comprar una j)iel de nutria, que venuida en ' Jiton asciende su precio -A, eieuto y veinte pesos, o A ciento y ochenta, segun la calidad que estiman los Chinos, siendo la mejor la mas grande y uegra, con la coudicion que tenga el hocico bianco.' Tobar, In/orme, 157-8. SPANIARDS LOOK INTO IT. 861 An EngliHli navi«rat()r of 1792 writes: " The vessels employed in coniniorcial pursuits this season on the north-west coast of America, have I belie ve found their adventures to answer their expectations: many were contented with the cargo of furs they hatl col- lected in the course of the summer; whilst otiiers who had prolonged their voyage, either passed tho winter at the Sandwich islands, or on the coast, where they completed small vessels which they brought out in frame. An English and an American shallop were at this time on the stocks in the cove, and when fin- ished were to be employ'-J m the inland navigation, in collecting the skins of the sea-otter and other furs; beside th'-se, a French ship was then engaged in the same ])ursuit," and the Spaniards were also collect- ing information on commerce.*" And a Spanish voy- ager of that year says, Dixon's profits excited the cupidity of traders, and thus, "although various cir- cumstances have caused a considerable diminution of the profits which this traffic yielded at nrst, twenty- two vessels engaged in it have been counted in 1792, eleven English, eight American, two Portuguese, and one French; and the American Mr Gray has col- lected by himself alone 3000 skins. Hardly is there a point on the coast from 37° to GO" which is not visited by these vessels ; so that, if we lack a detailed anil accurate map from the reports, explorations, and surveys of these navigators, it is because those who discover a port or entrance not known before, where tliey find inhabitants and an opportunity to procure skins advantageously, take advantage of the occasion and conceal the news of the discovery \vlth a view of doing an exclusive trade for a long time.'"'''' "TancoKt't'r's Voyage, i. 408. 'Ainsi V Europe, YAnie, ct VAmrri'/iie clu Koril-E4, par un inouvement simultoniie ont dirigcS leurs vaisseaiix vei-s les Cotea tl\i Nord-OwHt du Nouveau Monde, et ont multipliu i lY'iivi, sjina principea conimo sans nieaure, de spciculationa hasard(5es.' Marchand, Voywje, li. :«•!. '^'Sutil y Mexicaiia, Vlaije, 112-13. 'Sabemos tambien que la nacion iuglesa, ansiosa de extender sii comercio per todo el globo, oyd con gusto laa uotieias del Capitau Cook sobre cl traiico de pieles cu lau costaa al N. 0. de la ii THE MARITIME FUR-TRADE. "There are better ships nowadays, but no better sea- men," says one of the old Boston commanders;-^ and another, "The vessels usually employed were from one hundred to two hundred and fifty tons burthen, cacli. The time occujjied for a voyage by vessels that remained upon the coast only a single season, was from twenty- two months to two years, but they generally remained out two seasons, and were absent from home nearly three years."" "The American vessels, employed on the N. w. coast,"' says a writer whose patriotism was excited in 1822 by rumors of Russian interference, "are well armed, and amply furnished with the munitions of war. Separated from the civilized world, and cut off, for a long time, from all communication with it, they have been accustomed to rely on their own resources for p.utection and defence; and to consider, and treat as enemies, all who attempted to interrupt them in the prosecution of their lawful pursuits. To induce them to relinquish this conunerce, 'persuasion' will be unavailing; 'threats' will be disregarded," and force will be met by force — unless the odds appear too great. "^ English writers did not always greatly admire the American methods of carrying on the fur-trado, AmC'rica, quo lo emprcmlivriter scema to luive been Captain Sturgis. THE AMERICAN METHOD CRITICISED. 363 L's ([lie licil y ioiics: 11 lie their a, l)y in; this iirewil make /.c anil hat ail Iklauil i'tai.'h- lU thu l)()th '() fur bceiv though it nowhere appears that those methods dif- fered materially from those of the British traders, except in their greater success and more energetic application. Says Alexander Mackenzie in 1800: The Pacific trade "is at present left to American adven- turers, who without regularity or capital, or the de- sire of conciliating future confidence, look altogether to the interest of the moment. They therefore col- lect all the skins they can procure, and in any manner that suits them, and having exchanged them at Canton for the produce of China, return to their own country. Such adventurers, and many of them, as I have been informed, have been very successful, Avould instantly disappear from before a well-regu- lated trade" — such as Enijland is urged to establish by opening overland communication across America.-* Another writer describes the operations of the Yankees in a manner by no means so uncomplimentary to the latter as it was intended to be, as follow,-^: These "adventurers set out on the voyage with a few trinkets of little value; in the southern Pacific they [)ick up some seal-skins, and perhaps a few butts of oil; at the Gallipagos they lay in turtle, of which they preserve the shells; at Val])araiso they raise a few dollars in exchange for European articles; at Nootka tmd other parts of the north-west coast they traffic with the natives for furs which, when winter connnences, they carry to the Sandwich Islands to dry and preserve from vermin; here they leave their own people to take care of them, and in the spring enihark in lieu the natives of the islands to assist in navigating to the north-west coast in search of more skins. The remai]ider of the cargo is tlien madi^ up of sandal,, .tortoise-shell, shark-lins, and jicarls of an inferior kind,, .and with these and tlieir dt)llai's tiiey l)uiv]iase cargoes of tea, silks, and nankeens, and thus roniplote their voyage in the course of two or three years." -^ '* JftirlviKU's Vi'i/'TJC. tW. '^■'(Juarterlj/ Jitvicic, xvi. 84. 364 THE MARITIME FUR-TRADE. In reply to the unfavorable imputations referred to, Mr Greenhow says: "It would, however, be easy to show, from custom-house returns and other authentic evidence, that the greater number of the vessels sent from the United States to the north-west coasts were fine ships or brigs, laden with valuable cargoes of West India productions,, .and that the owners were men of large capital and liigh reputation in the commercial world . . . The American traders have also been ac- cused, by British writers, of practising every species of fraud and violence in their dealings with the na- tives of the coasts of that sea; yet the acts cited in support of these general accusations are only such as have been, and ever will be, connnitted by people of civilized nations, — and by none more frequently than the British, — when unrestrained by laws, in tlieir intercourse with ignorant, brutal, and treacherous sav- ages, always ready to rob and murder upon the sliglit- est prospect of gain, or in revenge for the slightest aftVont. Seldom did an American ship complete a vovauje throuifh the Pacific without the loss of some of her men, by the treachery or the ferocity of the natives . . ; and several instances have occurred of tlKi seizure of such vessels, and the massacre of their whole crews.""" Among the acts of hostility connnitted by the na- tives from time to time against the voyagers of differ- ent nations, as already recorded, may be mentioned the following: Seven of Heceta's men in 1775, landing in latitude 47° 20' for wood and water, were killed by tlio andiushed Indians for no other apparent motive than to obtain the nails which held the boat together. In 1778 the natives farther north made an absuid attempt to plunder one of Cook's ships and steal her boat. Hanna in 1785 inaugurated the fur-trade Ijv a tight with the Nootka people. Barclay had a boat's crew of five men murdered in 1787. Ca])tain (Cray's men were attacked in 1788 at Murderers' Harbor, or ''^Gieenhow'a Or. and CaL, 207-8. DIVERS DISASTERS. 895 Tillamook, and one man was killed, others escaping with serious wounds after a desperate resistance. In the same year Meares' boat was assaulted by the sav- ages within the strait of Fuca, and several men were wounded. Kendriok's men were attacked at BarroU Sound in 1791, and the same commander had several nii:!or conflicts with the natives, of which not much is known; and Gray lost his mate and two men in the north. The reader is familiar with the plot of the Indians to seize the Clayoquot in 1792. The Boston was seized, all her men but two beingf massacred at Nootka in 1803; and other trading craft were annoyed by hostile demonstrations about the same time. Eight men of the AtahiialjKi were killed in 1805 ; and the crew of the Tonquin was massacred in 1811. Thus it appears that the ordinary perils of long ocean voyages were not the only ones the traders had to encounter. Indeed I do not remember that on the Northwest Coast proper, or on the voyage to and from Boston, England, or China, there is any definite record of a shipwreck among trading craft in early times, though there were several on the Alaskan coast. There is hardly one of the voyages, however, whose log would not afford more than one thrilling descrip- tion of situations where wreck seemed inevitable and impending death was faced l>y the bold mariners. Besides what w^as suffered from the hostilities of north-western Indians, several vessels came to fjriuf at the hands of Hawaiian Islanders, or dwellers on other inhospitable coasts and islands of the Pacific. And the scurvy was an ever present scourge, that de- stroyed not a few lives in sj>ite of all precautions. IMoiity of molasses, sugar, and tea, as well as warm clothing, was deemed essential ; and a variety of vegetables and fruits was obtained from the Islands as a preventive. Spruce-beer was also a standard rtiiiedy and luxury to all who visited the coast, yeast Ijcing brought for the purpose, and the brewing of 1] ' ' It ^ 1^1 lilil £ ^f < 366 THE MARITIME FUR-TRADE. beer being as regular a duty at each anchorage as the obtaining of wood and water. Tliere can bo no doubt that in some cases the hostile acts of the natives were provoked by M-rongs committed by unscrupulous traders, though in most in- stances evidence respecting the exact causes is not ob- tainable. Englishmen accused Americans of frequent outrages on the Indians; Gray and Kendrick repre- sented that Mcares and his companions took i)rop- erty by force, giving in return what they chose ; and in turn the Americans were accused by the Indians of doing the same thing, in one instance killing seven of their number in order to get possession of tlieir furs.^^ Respecting the causes of these troubles, Cap- tain Belcher writes: "When offering objects fur sale they are very sulky if their tender is not res[)onded to . . . Upon mature consideration of what I Inixc seen and heard respecting this subject, I think many of the unprovoked attacks we have heard of hnvo originated in some transaction of this nature — refusal to trade beinrrll'ii Voyar/e of the Columbia, MS., 21. ^^/>/ao«'.s I'o'KKje, '201, 2*22. On Queen Charlotte Island, he saya, 'The chief usually truilea for the whole tribe; but I have sonietinica observed that when his method of barter haa been disapproved of, each separate family lias claimed a right to dispose of their own furs, and tlie chief always complied with this request.' And Haswell, Voi/., MS., 02, says that at Barrell Sound the chief bartered for all hia subjects. ROUTINES OF TRAFFIC. ic chief It when llaiiuod [th this le chief scribed as a ccrciiionial cxcliangc of presents diiofly. "Oil our arrival at the habitation of the cliiefs, where a great number of spectators attended to see the cere- mony, the sea-otter skins were produced with fj^reat shoutings and gestures of exultation, and then lanl at our feet. The silence of expectation tlien succeeded among them, and their most eager attention was cm- ])loyed on the returns we should make." One tribe would not sell a skin until the women permitted it."'* At one [)lace on the Oregon coast, says Haswell, " They would liand their skins on board without scruple and take with satisfaction whatever was given in I'eturn. This w'e very seldom found to be the case in any other jiart of the coast."""* "In all our connnercial trans- actions with this people," says INIeares at Clayoquot, '•we were more or less the dupes of their cunning; and with such peculiar artifice did they sometimes conduct themselves, that all the precaution we could employ was not sufficient to prevent our being over- reached by them. The women, in particular, would l)lay us a thousand tricks, and treat the discovery of their finesse with an arch kind of pleasantry that bafHed reproach."^** Iron, copper, and coarse woollen goods were, one year and one place with another, standard articles of hai'ter, while beads and gewgaws had less value than with savages in most other parts of the world. So far, however, as any one place at any one time was c(jncerned, the choice of a cargo to suit the taste of customers was a mere game of chance, so fickle and whimsical were the native traders, so peculiar and varying their ideas of value. ^^ Articles given by the ^MAr^rcv' r0.vrt.7c, 120, .•?24. ^'' /f(i.^iirir,f I'oi/iuje, MS., "24. '"''J/' ■or.'*' \'ni/mj(\ 148 ; Marrhand, To//., ii. G. 'On pent dire que, sous Ic r.ip- liiirt do I'intt'ret et dii tnitlic, ils out dcjii fait do grands pas dans la civiliza- tiiii, ot (|iie les Hebreux inodemea auroient peut-etro pen do chose.> .1 lour iqipvcndro.' ^' ' The iirst adventurers employed iron, beads, glass, and Indian gew- gaws as the medium of barter; but those who succeeded them udilod llritish Wdiillcus to the trade, and whole vdlages of American natives woio soon clad ill bluukets. . .After some time the IndiaiiH became so fond of wooleu articles, Hist. N. W. Coast, Vol. I. 2k I 4 I iji I 1; 370 THE I^IARITIME FUR-TRADE. ,1 ml Winsliips In 1800 averaged fi'om two to fifty cents eacli tor sea-otter skins. Captain Sturgis "liad seen prime sea-otter skins obtained for articles that did not cost tiftv cents at lionie, and had seen given for thi^ni articles that cost here twice as much as the skins would sell for inChina." " Such aswere drestjod in fui's," wi-ites another trader, "instantly stripped themselves, and for Ji m(jderate quantity of large s})ike nails, we receixetl sixty fine skins." It has already been recorded how Haswell got two hundred skins for one small cliisel on the shores of Queen Charlotte Island. An old woman on the same coast contemptuously refused all of Dixon's offers of axes or anything else for a curious li[» ornament, but when some bright buttons ap- peared she yielded to the temptatit)n. "Brass pans, pewter basons, and tin kettles," were the articles most esteemed at one place, while at another near by only 'toes' were i)rized. Yet Dixon found iron the staple connnodity, "everything else depending, in a great measui'e, on fancy and caprice." Sayn Captain Cook: "Six o{' the finest skins purchased by us were got for a dozen lartje, tureen, iflass beads." Elsewhei-e thev rejected all pieces of iron that did not exceed eiglit inches in length. Of the articles carried Ijy ^Marchand, co[>per and tin pots and kettles were preferred; also weapons, iron things generally not being cared for; but onlv for articles of clothinij, of which there M'cro none save those kej>t in stock for the sailors, they would give tlieir finest furs.'"'^ that IK) ti'iulo could lie carrieil on -without thorn. ' TIic fickleness tliat they at times tliscovere8, H)-2, '20.3, 208, 22S-9, 24.'), suys: 'Saws were not cared for. At our first trading the natives took toes and blue beads, but the toes iire held in the greatest estimation, a middling sized t off their fur cloaks and i-educe themselves to a state of nudity.'** In later years, when the Indians had learnetl to expect the t'radc>rs' regular visits, the furs were loss frequently damaged by cutting and b^^ being worn as garnjents; but in respect of vermin the improvement was less marked.** It is not possil)le from existing sources of infoi'- r.iation to form a statistical statenu^nt of the fur-trado south of Alaska. It was carried on by individual adventurers or private companies; and only fragmen- tary reports of prices, prolits, or (piantities of fui's obtained were incidentally made public in connection with special voj-ages. From 1785 to 1787, not in- cluding the operations of ]\Ieares, according to Dixon's '"'-:,fst. CooM, 4'24. ^'.V »/•(//.<' A'orthirrst Fur Tnnle, .')3G-7. *' Xnrth Aiiurtcim Ricii'ir, xv. 37-. ^^Voxi's liiisn. DUroi'., 13-14; La Pfivowc, Vo;/r.i;ic, iv. 174: Jfarchdinf, Voi/iiiii', ii. 30!l; S/ur:/ifi' Xort/nresl fur Trade, oM; JJitlell's Comiiurce and Lidadrku of (he Pavijic Coad, 331. m THK MARITIME FUR-TRADE. is ooinparativoly (>()in[)lote, hocauso tlio business wns cai'i'icd on by a ('oiiijtany with a systciiiatic orj^aiiiza- tioii: l)ut this iiiattcr is fully treated in other voluiius of tills work, there beiui^ nothinn" that ealls for sixjcial liotiee in Russian oj)eratioiis on the Northwest Coiist jo'oper. In IH'2'2, however, there were some feehlc pi'eHKtnitionsof an intention to extend Russian conti'ol over that coast down at least to the Columbia River, the northern hunters complaining not so uuicli of the rivalry of the Americans — who moreover were in several I'espt'cts very useful — as of their lial)it of sell- iii'L;' arms and aiunumition to the Indians, and makiuL,^ them in uiany casi'S more Ibrmidabh; foes to the forces of the Russian xVmerican Fur Company.''" On the Californian fur-ti-adi;, for the meagre items that exist on that subject in addition to what was (lon(.' bv the Russians, 1 may also refer the reader to other volumes. The native lumters emi)l(>yed by the com- pany and their Yankee j^artners did not quite anni- hilate the sea-otter in Calitbrnian waters, where that animal was very abundant, though producing a fur ^omewhat inferior to that obtained in the north. The Californian Indians succeeded in killing a few otteis each year, whose skins were collected by the padres and others, t>ither to be sold clandestinely to Amer- ican contrahdiuh'stas or sent to China via San ]ilas, by the yearly transport ships and Manila galleons.^' Enough were left on the coasts to em])loy a dozen or more trappers from New Mexico for a part of theli' *"A writur in tlio Xmih Avier. J'ericr, x\ . .3f4, atliuits that arms ainl iiiiiiiniiiitioii wei'c furiiislitvl to ' imlopi'iiiiiiiit i'li()i-i;.;inal iiihahitants,' but mi to natives buhjoct to liiissia. The Indians r(juo Wifaiiaiiisji ir. aihiuiiido lauchas anuas cii I'H caiuliiiw (Ic sii iieluteria con Ioh Eiivoiioi:.''; y ii estos d tlesto do la gaiiami:i lu.s ha iieclio caur cu la iinprudcncia do dar fonieuto y way of Manilla.' lf(l.^llrl^.•< To//., MS., 20. 'Tiio Spanianls within these two ytaivi havv' imported tlie sea-otter to (Jliina. : they collect their skins near their .suttlc- nit nt-! of Monteri^y and San Francisco. . .The I'adres are the princiiial con- ductors of tills traflic. In 1787 tlicy imported about '200 skins, and tlie l)cginnini; of this year near loOO. . .They are sent. . .to Acapulco, and theuce liy the annual galleon to Manilla. ' Dixou'n I'uijdiji, 320. CALIFORNIA TRAFFIC. 375 timc! down to 1840 aiul later; and even luitlvo Cali- loiniaiis I'Mi^iii^cd iniklly Jiiid ofciisioiially in tlu- hunt dnriiii^ the sanio perioil. ]^a Perousu luid t'oared tlio I'tH'cl on the C'liincsc' market of the 10,000 sea-otter skins tliat nii<>ht easily be obtained eai-h year at ^lonterey and San Francisco when tlieir value became known; but beyond discoursinj^ occasionally, in some orand connnercial scheme never carried into etl'cct, oil the inifrit as constituting an im[)ortant element in Calilornian wealth, the S[)aniards, and alter them the Mexicans, did nothing in the matter. Spain, as wo '11, attached no value to the Xorthwest Coast t' set hav by reason oi' its peltries. ^lartinez, indeed, on his re- turn from the iK^rth in 1780 proposed a fur-trading association under government aus})ices; but the vice- roy withheld his ap})roval. Ho believed the })ro{its umler the pr(jspuctive competition could not be long remunerative; and the extent of his recommendation was that Spanish traders be eiicoui-aged to secure a porti(Hi of those profits while they should last. While private English traders practically aban- doiu'd this field of maritime fur-trade early in the nineteenth ci'iiturv, yet in later years the English conii)anies, the Northwest and Hudson's Bay, in con- nection with their great hunt for fur-bearing animals in the interior, ennaijfed to a considerable extent in the barter for sea otter skins, as it was abandoned by the regular traders, despatching their vessels on lVe(|Uent tri])s from the Columbia uj) and down the coast. S(^ the Kussian compaii}' continued its efforts uninterruptedly until succeeded by the American com])any still engaged in this industry. In 1840, says Sturgis, "the wliolo business of collecting furs upon our western continent, without tlie acknowledged limib^ of the United States, is now monopolized by two great corporations, the Russian and British Fur C* "4') ompames. *^i)titnji^' Xorthwest Fur Trade, 538. Si 37G THE MAKITDIE FUR-TRADM Tlio Tlostdn luorclinnts not oiilv oarriod on (lie fi 11'- trndo ninch more extensively tlian those of ollui nations, but tluy continued tlieir o|)eT'ations lon^; al'trr otluTs luid abandoned th(^ tield - lonu^er, indcH>d, than tlie barter for skins alone would have been profitable. From time to time, however, they combined new- enterprises with the old, tlius largely increasiuin" iiifii- pi-otits. Not oidv did tlu^' buy otter-skins of thi' northern natives but of (^alilbrnian ])a(lres; and tlie goods given in exchange were smuggled with a most proiitablc! disregard I'or S[)anish and Mexican i-e\enue laws. Xot only did they barter for furs, but pro- curii'g native hunters from Alaska they obtained IVoui Calil orma JaiYe nun)bers of skins, half of which had to be ixiven to the Kussi; ui company; and some ol ;u' them made fortuiu's bv huntinj*; fur-seals on the F allones and othei' islands. Then they did a j)rofItabl( I )usmess in furnishiuLr the JIussiau establislmuiit' with Jieeded articles from Boston, (^hina, tlie Saiid- wi<*h Islands, and (^difornia; and it is e\en slabd that after ISlo they carried to the Columbia i'lvi-r all the stores riMpiired by the western ]>riiish eslab- lishments, carrying away also to C^uiton all the I'lus obtaiuiMl by the English com[)any.""* However this may have been, with the expedients named and others, including the sandal-wood trade at the Islands, the Americans were able to continue the fur-trade nuich longi'r (ban would otherwise hnvc been j)ossi- hie S: ivs Stui e'ls: Tl le (li lliculti ies and uiu ei-tamt y m nrocuriULT lui's l)ecame so serious. 1 that in ISiil) tlu' business north of Califoi-nia was abandoned. . .At tlu^ present time, (l.S-!(5,) the whole amount collecti'd aimu;;!1y within the same limits does not exceed two hmidrel, and those of veiy ordinary <|uali(y. 'I'lie noi th-west trade as far a s we are concerne< 1 1 las ceascMl to be of importance in a comnu'rcial view." And (Jreenhow, writing at the same date: "The i'ui'- trade has been, hitherto, very [trolitable to those eii- ^^KStiinjiK' Xorllinrtil Far Trade, MO. lie Ali-- .14' Jin CI- I, r tiu" 11(1 tlui 1 most Al'lUIl' I IVoiii h had 1110 of ital)K- llcilts iixU'd \l\vvv ;stal)- ar- t's Ihis and iiids, li-adf lossi- liiitv TriE (OXTrXI^XTAL ruR TR.Mir:, ■'U'«''I in it: l)iit it »ll'C||IlIIl< A t vvvvy mIio,v."'i '••^ now, from a variety of 377 causes. a ! 1 1 : '>P'<' Hosc.Iy alh\.,| to that of !S o f tl t\ ''•■^ <'lia)it('r, tl ] '.I nil's of dilK'iviit nat ';'.^ivuttnuisroMtii,entalni,-IumtI "i. 11)10 dotai! ions, will 1 )o rt 10 >y com- I'l .'i latof part of tliis v<.I (•0|'( Ictl ill ull di ■^JIK T v'lS'u'^n" O;-. „,a CuL, 41-2- IH; s, lime ii'iv (ire at tl «n;r.igo(l ill tlii.s tr;iil 10 ()rc.s(.nt time ah: 1111(1, (1 sca-iittfi- li "-'sf r^r Tn„/r. ;,;!,■!_,; sfls aiv (n *', I'Kiiiiiiiu •lit from the I'liittMl St 1 villi,' I 111(1 t\\ " -!XM,. I(>{) tons l,„r(l " Mitli tliat yarc risiiallyalioiit tl < illtoilof tile 111 '■^si'ls eii','ai'(i i'-*, .siiidal "■''•' years ii K'li, and carr I" tlio .Saii(|\,ii.| 'I'l'OIilC itcs t(iiirt( y troll I islaiK Wood to I 'I ill (lie tra(l( Di'liovo this trade uissiii. ^^o,■t/l A,Hir. /, "as lift 1 0(>lll|l|(.ti|,,, '•>'y>l tliitlu'itlin' Nli'irt of li.df 1 'j:> ( o ;;,) I 't ^■o\■aL,'(• 1st ■ Tl .•a'ari'f. . 'Oil \-cs;;(.I ><../l'll,.s, "I'll cacli "ill 1„. tlio,i-litto,.valiml.l season, l,y \ I iiiilliidi o|" d, !<■ \alii(. ,i(, liiericaii "•'<"', -w. ;t7J-;j, e to he ijiiiclly lel iiiiliiislied' At I'd el <\Vi> Tl lO Jias I'W. I'lir- 011- III ill CHAPTER XII. NEW FRANCE AND THE FUR-TRADE. 1524-1703. Change of OwxKnsnir, ix 17")!)-G", of North Ameiitca — DiscovEnv— Fr^vnce in Sijcth Ameura amj Flokiua — The Fisiieumen anu FfK-TKADKIlS t(F XeWEOINDLAM) AXU THE St LaWIIKNCE- IIlSTdllV Rocen — Chami-laix's Misuile- Tin; Fhanl'Iscaxs CELEnUATE Mass in New Fkanoe — The Caens — Xi;\\ FuAXCE rxDEU RicHELiEE— The Hr.NDUED Assoclvtes — Siu William Alexander axd the JJkotiieus Kirk — The llriuixs and the Itm- <,n(ii.'; — Troi'dles in Acadlv — Discovery and Occfi'ATinx of tin; ^Iississipi'i Valley in' De Soto, ^^AR(i^•ETTE, .Toliet, La Sali.k, HeXXEPIX, axd lllEKVILLE — TlIK GrEAT FlR MuXOl'OLIKS OF NkW France — French and Indian War— Final Conflict — Treaties— ]5oi:ndaries. Thus far iii tliis history wc liavc directed our atten- tion more especially to affairs i'<'lative to the seahoaid of the i;'n'at north- we.st, merely glaiiein<^ at exploi'.i- tions hy land in various (juarters. Let us now tuiii and review, still very briefly, the carl}' affairs nf FreiK'li and Kn_n'lisli in Canada, their gradual moNt- ments ^^'estward, and tinally the oeeupatioii as a manu' ]>reserve of the immense area to the north and wi'>l by the subjects of Great ISritain. All ]CnL,dan(l ranjjj i-ejoicinii^s, all save the litfle vil- lage where dwelt Wolfe's widowed mothei'. Scotland (37S) ^f: THE GREAT LANDHOLDER. 379 too was glad; for on the plains of Abraham the hay- oin'ts of her wild highlanders had unlocked o[>por- tunity for multitudes of her shrewd sons. Nor were Aii,L,do -America!? colonies displeased; for M'ith the re- duction of a foreign power perched since birth u^jou tlieir border, was removed a standing menace, which had made them hesitate to declare independence of their too severely protecting mother, as seventeen years later they did not fail to do. It w^as in Sep- tember 1759 that the citadel of Quebec surrendered; and one yoor after Canada, with all her possessions east of the Mississippi, i)assed to the British crown. Hitherto France had been the great landholder upon this continent. Nearly all that is now British America was hers; nearly all that is now the United States she claimed and held. Of all this continental triangh', from Darien to Labrador and Alaska, there only re- mained to other European powers the comparatively insignificant areas of Central America and Mexico, a few little patches on the Atlantic seaboard, a nai-row border round Hudson Bay, and the far-otf Russian American corner, together with what we call the Northwest Coast — all the rest belonged to France; tind of this, by the i)eace of Paris in 1703, and subse- f]uently following tiie conquest eal\C Bay, or Caryer landed on Plymouth Koek — Jaequc:s Cartier sailed from France under the au- spices of Philippe (le Brion-Chabot and found the St Lawrence, which the followiui^ year he ascended to ^lontreal. Erected into a viceroyalty under .lean l^^i-ancois de la Roque, Sieur de Iloberyal, La Xou- yelle France^ was again yisited by Cartier, with cer- tain exclusive rights, in 1541; in the year fbllowing came lloberval, but only to find himself the wot'iil follower r^' nreceding woes. Then i-ested colonizalin:! in this re, i r half a century; })erturbeil Frendi- men filling \ nterval with buccaneering and prot- estantizing. For while like a grim shadow the sixtcenth-centiuv superstitions of Spain hung quiescent oyer the grc^atcr jtart of Europe, France was alive with heresy, and iVom the burning t)f men and burying alive of wcmiicii for opinicm's sake, the Huguenots, with a sprinkling of restless orthodox adventurers, in 1555 under A ill.- gagnon, and again in 15G2 under Jean Ilibault, turned and souijht homes in the New World. Villeoa'Tnon landed his cohiny on an island in tin- harbor of Rio de Janeiro, and with an arrogance cliai-- acteristic of tlie adventurers of that day took p(f^- session of all South America for the king of France, calling it La France Antarctiquo. After quarrelUng fiercely with certain of his Calvinistic associates abnut the legality of mixing water with the wine of tlie eucharist, and making tlie sacramental bread of eoni- nu!al instead of wheaten ilour, he returned with all jiis followers to Europe, thus missing an oj)portuiiity which, but for the important theological issues that must be immediately settled, might indeed have given the continent to France. 'Cartier mistook the oritive wonl hinuta, which sij^nifics a oolli'i'li iii I't" lints, for the iiaiinj of the oountry, which in coii.sc(|Ui'ii(i! l)cciiiiic known LiIlT ad Cauudu, thou^'h fur ii century or t\\o culled New France. OFF XE^\TOUNDLA^^). 381 Florida Avas tlie landin,Lj-})laec of Ilibault; and wlieii Calviu's French disciples revelled in this iruitiul \\ ilderncss, there was not a European besides them iKirth of that Cibola whose seven cities with their unspeakable wealth, the natives assured them, were but t WLiity daj's distant, and that by water, Xext in 1 5() t, ] Jene de Laudonniere brought to this shore a com[)an y of French Calvinists, not of the stern stuff t)f which successful colonists are made, but rather pirates, des- tined to be massacred, nine hundred of them some say, by the Lutlier-hating' S[)aniards under IVdro de I\b'iu'ndez, liibault himself fallinu* with the rest. In ntaliation I)oi nnique de Gourgues in 1508, while Menendez was ui Spain, surprised and slaughtered tlie S})aniards, four hundred in number; after which lie abandoned to the natives for demolition the fort wliicli had been built. Thus died Huguenot effort in I'loiida. It was not for France to plant protestantism in America. The next we hear of New Fi'ance is in 1578, when, off Newfoundland, besides one hundred S[)anish, fifty T^)rtuL^uese, and fiftv Enulish vessels, there aie one liu.iidri'd and fifty French fishing craft and sometwenty- iWc Discayan whalers. Soon these fishermen find tlieir V, ay u[) the St Lawrence and ply a more lucrative trade, exchanging trinkets for beaver and bear skins. And here, it ma}' be said, begins the histe>ry of the I'ni-trade in America, whicli ibr two and a half cen- turies is indeed the history of Canada. Xot that tlie skins of wild beasts had not before this been bought mid sold, but now for the first time do we see the tiailic in peltries assuming under royal protection a iiiiuiai-y influence on colonization. In earlv times and indeed in some localities until a coni[)aratively recent n«i:the nobilitv, who reserved for themselves the choicest kinds. At one time skins were almost the only arti'.le of export of certain northern coun- ti'ies. They were sometimes em[)loycd as a medium of exchange and taxation. In this connnodity Jlussia received tribute from Siberia, whose wealth in funtd animals had alone made her an object worth the con- (juest. England obtained sup})lies from Russia and iioitliern Asia through Hanseatic and Italian traders, and notwithsi^anding the exjiense of this route tlie custom of wearing furs must have become prevalent, since Edward III. in 1037 thought fit to prohibit their use to those whose income was less than oin! lumdred iwunds a voar. Duriuij: the sixteenth ceii- tury the English opened direct trade with Russia, and a British company was allowed to establish ports on the White Sea, and a depot at Moscow for its com- merce with Persia and the Cas})ian region; but this promising trade was necessarily abandoned when Eliz- abeth issued a decree forbidding the use of foreign furs. The opening of trade with northern America proved most opportune for the European market. It was like finding a vast mine of gold; indeed in the EXC'LU.'=«n'K HIOIITS. 3S3 Xew World t'lirs were to the Ft-ohcIi what gold was to tlio Spaniard, and the ol>taining (»t' thcni fre- quently in exchange tor petty artieles of little cost or value was often easier than the workin'jfof the richest gold mine. Hero ii])on the St Lawrence at this time furs were ])lentiful and easily secured ; it is said that even the hison then inhabited these parts. Walrus-tusks like- wise hecanie an article of traffic, which, vvitii the other attractions, drew annually from St Malo Heets of ves- sels. Wrani^liniif with each other, and outra<'inn: the natives, the French fur-traders s})i'ead along the sea- hoard, coasted the islands of the gulf, and ascended the str(nims, plying their vocation by methods which led to subsequent disorder. l^pon the strength of their uncle's services, two nephews of Cartier, Noel and Chaton, whose success- 1'ul trafHc had excited the jealousy of their competitors to that extent that they seized and s[)itefully burned sevi'ral of their vessels, in l.")88 askud and obtaini'd fi'om Henri III. letters patent giving them the same ixclusive rights along the St Lawrence and its trib- utaries which were (;nce accorded C^artier himself l)ut s(^ great was the storm i-aised by tlie merciiants of St ]\lalo, by reason of this favoritism, that the grant was soon revoked. The ti'iumph of tlie St Malo merchants, however, Mils of short duration, for in ].")I)8 the domination vas indeed better than a state of agricultural inter- ference. Then came forward the great Richelieu, and took New France under his wing. Hating the Huguenots, he stripped the Cacns of their privileges, placed himself at the head of a hundred associates, under the name of La Compagnie des Cent Associes de la Nouvelle France, Avith a caj)ital of three hundred thousand livres, and obtained from the crown a monopoly of all connnerce for fifteen years, and a perpetual monopoly of the fur- trade. In return the company agreed to carry to New France during the year 1G28 not less than two hun- dred artisans; and within the next fifteen years four thousand men and women were to be conveyed thither, ^'A cette <5poque,' Charlevoix remarks, 'le Canada consistait dans le fort de Qui'bec, environnti do quel([uea in(5chantes maison?, et de quel(jues haracjues, duux ou troia cabiines dans Tile de Montri5al, autuut pent-utre i). Tadoussac et vn qiielques autres endroits sur le Saint-Laurent, pour le commerce des pel- leteries et de la peche ; eufin, un commencement d'habitation it, trois Rivieres. * See Kohl's HUt. JJlscov., 82-3; Raynal, Jlint. Phil., viii. 9G-10L 390 NEW FRANCE AND THE FUR-TRADE. iii and there supported at the expense of the company for three years. None but Frenchmen and Catholics should be permitted a residence in the country. Had these briUiant opportunities been embraced and the promises kept, we might see, through this feudal pro- prietorship of a commercial and colonization company, the whole vast domain of northern America become permanently French in thought, language, and insti- tutions as now it is English. About this time war broke out in France, and England helped the Huguenots. Sir William Alex- ander had attempted to colonize Acadia, and now, with the assistance of the brothers Kirk and other Calvinist rebels and refugees, he essayed no less a thing than to wrest from France her American pos- sessions. Appearing in the St Lawrence while famine reigned at Quebec, the English sacked the fort at Cape Fourniente, attacked and sank the vessels of the Hundred Associates, and sailed for home. The fol- lowing year the cross of St George was ])lantcd by Louis Kirk at Quebec. In the treaty which followrd, Canada was restored to the French, but only to f;ill again into the hands of the English one hundred and thirty years later. The treaty was of little moment unless enforced. Hence to Emery de Caen in lC}o2 was given a com- mission to clear New France of the English, fDr which service he was to enjoy a monopoly of the fur-ti;ulo for one year, after which exclusive privilege was to revert to the Hundred Associates. Cham|)lain meanwhile became saintly in his fanati- cism, and turned the trading-post at Quebec into a Jesuit mission, l^randy and debauchery were ban- ished, and (dvilized and savage vied with each other in prayers and repentance. Jesuit missions were estab- lished among the Hurons. In 1(535 Champlain died and was buried by the Blackfriars. THE MISSISSIPPI VxVLLEY. 391 The war of extermination between the Hurons and the Iroquois which now raged under Montniagny, originated chiefly from the presumptive hopes of traffic and revenge raised in the breasts of the Hurons by the Hundred Associates, following the envenomed policy of Champlain. The fruit of their evil example they were now made to eat. After spending more than a million livres in these disastrous struggles, the Hundred Associates were glad to relinquish their rights to the people for an annual seigniorial rent of one million beaver. By 1650 the downfall of the Hurons was complete. In 1648 fifty -one envoys were sent from New England to Quebec, and from Canada to Boston, having in view a treaty of perpetual amity between the two colonies, which were to remain neutral in all disputes of the mother countries. The negotiations failed. The Iroquois, after their dispersion of the Hurons, fell upon the French. Trade in skins meanwhile was much reduced, and so remained until the ratification of a treaty in 1662. The Compagnie des Cent As- socies had dwindled to forty-five members, when in 1663 the governor- o-eneral, Baron d'Avaugour, ad- vised Louis XIV. to dissolve it and himself to resume territorial jurisdiction, which was done, and Canada became a royal province of France. Serious contentions followed the treaty of St Ger- main, by which France was made mistress of Acadia. For fifty years jealousy was rife, and wars succeeded each other. In 1654 Cromwell seized Port lioval, and granted tlie province to La Tour, Temple, and Crown, as an English dependency; but by the treaty of Breda in 1667 Acadia was again restored to ]<>ance. For the first time since Fernando do Soto in 1541 vauntingly led his bedizened trnin from Florida to the Mississip})i, and the following year witli clijiped courage made his bed beneath its waters, the \alley 392 NEW FRANCE AND THE FUR-TRADE. ; r u of the Great River now takes a prominent place in history. No section of equal extent and importance in all the two Americas has changed permanent pro- prietorsJiip so often as this. Spain, in silken vesture and burnished armor, wi':h blood-hounds for huntinir natives, and chains with which to bind them, first found this mighty stream ; France with breviary and crucifix, in humble attitude and garb, first peacefully explored and planted settlements upon its banks; England first conquered it from a European power and held its eastern bank, while Spain claimed the western, and subsequently conquered from England the Florida j)ortion of the eastern; and last of all, thus far, the United States was the first b}^ honorable treaty to obtain possession. Several missionary and trading expeditions liad been made into the region beyond lakes Micliigan and Su])erior, and information of the Father of Waters given, when in 1G73 M. Joliet and Pere INIarquette crossed the narrow portage between Fox River and the Wisconsin, and embarking in two light canoes glided down to the Mississippi and descended the river to the thirty-third parallel, near the spot touched by Soto. Their provisions exhausted, and their mission, they retuined, ^Marquette to his missionary labois among the Indians, and Joliet to Quebec. To Robert de la Salle it remained to descend the Great River to its mouth and determine whether it discharged into the gulf of Mexico or into the Pacific Ocean. La Salle was a fur-trader, having a factory at Lachine, near Montreal, whence he made frecpient visits to lakes Ontario and Erie. To the governor and others he suggested that the Pacific might perhaps Itc better reached by ascending than by descending the Mississippi. In 1080, having received royal privileges, he sent Pere Hennepin down the Ilhnois to the ]\lis- sissij)pi, with instructions to ascend the latter stream as I'ar as he was able, which proved to be to the Sault St Antoine, while two years later La Salle himself ENGLISH JEALOUSY. 303 descended the Mississippi to its mouth and took pos- session of the country, calhng it Louisiane. lieturn- iiii^ to Quebec, La Salle embarked for Franco, where his report caused great excitement. To the bold dis- coverer was given the colonization of Louisiane, which term then embraced the whole of that vast tract drained by the Mississippi, and which now became a j)r()vince of New France. Sailing fnmi France for the Mississippi in July 1()84, with four ships and two hundred and eighty emigrants, La Salle missed the mouth of the river, lost one vessel, and finally in a sad plight struck the coast of Texas, where a colony was ])lanted, thus adding that country to his discovery. While seeking liis lost river, La Salle wandered into the basin of tlic Col(jrado, where he was traitorously shot by one of his company, leaving it with Lemoine d'Iberville to lay in 1G99 the foundation of the future colony. In due time, by posts and settlements up the St Law- rence, round the great lakes, and down the fertile valley of the Mississi})pi, the two extremities of French American domain became united.' Xow, more than ever, the jealousy of the English colonists was aroused. Their actual occupancy in North America was confined to a narrow space on the Atlantic .seaboard, while the French and Spanish claimed all the rest. Indeed, France had left but little footing even for Spain, the Mexican and Cen- tral AvK'i'ioan isthmuses, together with the lands drained by the llio del Ncjrte and the Rio Colorado, and on the Pacific the two Californias of undefined limits, being but a bagatelle compared with the vnst regions of the middle and north.* ' The lilies of Fi'anoc cut on forest trees, nml crosses erected on lilufTs of tlu' Mississipiii, ut length marked ;i chain of jwists from the Mexir.m gulf to lliidsdii's liay.' liurifii Kxoditi n/lli'' Wi-'iteni XulionSy i. HSii. 'Tout lo Nurd dn Missouri nou* est tofcilement inconnn.' Lf I'ajf dii /';•«/:, //'V. l.'iKixintii', i. HJ7. 'I'o the eNpoditJiin of La Salle are added the subsc(jueut adventures of JlcniHpin, in Am Antii/. tine, Tniim., i. (il 111. "' l.a J^unisianc situi'edans la partio Septentrionalc ilo rAn)eri(|U«', est horneo uu Midi pur lu Goifu du Muxii^uu, uu Lovout pur lu Cui'oliuu, Culuuie An^laisc, & 394 NEW FRANCE AND THE FUR-TRADE. When in 1682 Lefebvre do la Barrc assumed tlic governor-generalship of Canada in place of the Count de Frontenac, hostilities had broken out between the Iroquois and the Illinois. It was said that the people of New Netherlands, now New York, wishing to monopolize the fur-trade of that region, were con- stantly exciting the Iroquois against the French, and to the latter it now seemed necessary that they should assist the Illinois. Taking the field against the Iroquois, Le Barro failed to accomplish any important purpose; and his successor, the Marquis de Denonville, succeeded but little better in attempting to exclude the Iroquois and English traders from the St Lawrence, After a period of unwonted tranquillity, in August 1689 four- teen hundred Iroquois suddenly appeared at Lachine and massacred tb ; inhabitants. p t if* Following the dissolution of the Hundred Asso- ciates, in 1664 was formed for New France another withering monopoly, known as the West India Com- pany. Although exclusive trade was vested in the association for forty years, and tae Atlantic seaboard of Africa was given them as well as America ; and although Louis XIV., in addition to all the privileges formerly granted the Hundred Associates, placed a premium of forty livres on every ton of exported or imported merchandise, the company finally fell in pieces by the very weight of royal favors, for com- modities so rose in price that purchasers could not be found, and the importation of goods ceased. In 16()(» Colbert withdrew from the monopolists the peltry traffic, and at the same time relieved them from the ftartic (111 ( 'lumda, an Couchnnt par le noiiveau Mexiqiie, an Nord en partie par e Ciiiintlu: le ivste n'a point ilo Ix)riie8, & »V'xtenil juaipraiix Torres iiiconnues voisineM 7, France posse.ssed twenty times as niueh .Vniericnn territory as Kii;4land ; and live times as mucii as Knglaiiil and Spain togetlier.' ItiiliKilli'x ('. .v., l!70. 'I'nttinj,' aside tlic unteiial)le claims wIiilIi ''ranee nHserte4l ill the ]iatents j.'ranted to De Monts, she aetniilly possessed settle- ments ill all parts of North America, as far us Mexico on the south auJ L'aii- furuia ou the west.' Uury's Exodus, ii, 0. DIVERS MONOPOLIES. 305 Asso- [notlior Com- tho iboard ; and iced a ■ted or ell in coni- not 1)0 1 1 (')(')(') peltry Bill the |iai-tii' V'iT iicoiiiincfi ,-•, i. i:!s. UllKTii-lll Jogflllfl." |i, I'raiuo 1.(1 scttlf- liiml eaii- restriction of their trade to France. Still the insti- tution could not thrive; and with a hundred vessels employed, and with a debt of three and a half millions of livres, in 1G74, the company became extinct. These wise rulers had yet to learn of laisscrfairc, to learn that trade thrives best when let alone. The peltry monopoly in Canada now took an inde- pendent departure, and was hereafter less involved with other royal privileges, although to Oudiette, into whose hands from the West India Company it fell, were also farmed the duties on tobacco, which were then ten per cent. This continued until 1700, when the people again begged relief. Roddes was the next fur-king; and after him Piccaud, who paid seventy thousand francs per annum for the monopoly, and formed an association called the Company of Canada, with shares at fifty livres, of which any Canadian might take any number. With this association the Hudson's Bay Com}>any, whose history we shall trace in the next chapter, was con- cerned. The Canada Company falling into dissolution, Aubert, Nerot, and Guyot agreed to pay its debts — • 1, SI 2, 000 francs — for its privileges. With the ex- jMration of their term the monopoly cf Aubert and Company fell in 1717 to the Western Company, as the ]\Iississippi Bubble Scheme of John Law was at one time known. This was the grand epoch of the fur-trade in Canada under the old adventurous and lawless rr/iiii''. Ikaver-skins were the life of Xew France. It was all ir. vain that the jjovernment soui^ht to cv)nir()l this tiatiic; and what is strangest of all to us is that ai'tvv a century of failures rulers could not sec that it was not possible. No more than the Inited States with all her armies would have been able to guard the gold banked in the Sierra J)rainage, could France guard the wild beasts of the Canadian forests, or prevent her i)eoj)le from catching and skinning them. As one among the many preventive measures r*ii 39G NEW FRANCE AND THE FUR-TRADE. adopted by the king, an annual fair was ordered held at Montreal. It was at the opening of this commer- cial by- play that the arm-chaired governor- general, whom we read so much about in all the books, took his seat on the common, and midst nmch solemn smoking harangued the savages ranged round him upon the benefits accruing to mankind by reason of the peltry-packs which they had brought from distant forests to trade. The scenes enacted here, where the highest mer- chants erected booths, and huckstering savages stallicd the street, and half the town were drunk or nearly so, were conducive neither to connnercial prosperity nor to good morals. Infatuated with the trade, scores of young men every summer returned with the savagxs to their distant homes, and became almost savage thcin- selvt'S, paddling their canoes and ranging the woods, whence the clan of voyageurs and coureur.s des hois greatly nmltiplied, and became a striking feature of the century. For this forest traffic licenses were issued, but many preferred to take their chances without them. An illustration of the futility and absurdity of government protection and trade monopoly licre pre- sents itself While Oudiette and his associates held sway, the supply increased so largely as to ruin them. The hunters might sell to the merchants; but the merchants might sell only to Oudiette, and Oudiette must take all the furs olfered him at a tixed j)ricr. The consequence was that when from over supi)ly the market became glutted, and France refused to take them at half tlieir cost, Oudiette was obliijfed to succumb; and the only way out of the difficulty his successors found, was to burn three fourths of the stock on hand. And this was done more than once. Round the trading-posts planted by La Salle along the Mississippi, and the missions established l)y the Jesuits south and west of Lake Michigan, little set- THE MISSISSIPPI COMPANY. 307 lity of c pro- held Itboin. t tho liuttc ])iico. u[)[)ly led to >ligcd his stock luloiij;' ly the set- tlements sprang up, until in 1711, when England declared war against France, throujrhout the great valley were scattered fur-traders of every class, whose intercourse on the north was with Quebec, and on the south wnth the Isle Dauphin, in Mobile Bay. In 1712 Antoine Crozat obtained from tho French court the appointment of governor of Louisiana, with a monopoly for mining and trading in that region lor sixteen years. Crozat attempted to open commeicial relations with Mexico, and in 1713 despatched a vessel to Vera Cruz, but the viceroy ordered its im- mediate departure. Moreover, the Virginians greatly troubled him by interfering with his peltry trade among the Natchez and other native nations of the ]\Iississippi. Crozat was already a millionaire, and very grasping. By charging exorbitant prices for his goods, and paying the minimum rate for furs, lie soon drove hunters out of the country, when he threw up his ]>atent in disgust. It finally fell with others into the meshes of tho famous JMississippi Bubble scheme. New adventurers entered the field in 1717 under tho name of the Western or Mississippi Company, before mentioned, which was connected with the Bank of France, and whose charter was to run for twenty-five years. To this were added the dormant rights of the Santo Domingo Association, formed in 1G98, the Senegal and (xuinea Companies, tho Chinese Company of 1700, the Old West India Company, the Canada Com[)any, and Aubcrt and Com))any. The capital of the ^Tississippi Compan}'' was orii^i- nally one hundred millions of livres, based on a poj)- ular belief in the resources of that country. It was a colonization scheme invented by tho Scotchman John ]^aw to free the French goveinment from ' Bradstrcct, and Du Quesne was burned. Twelve million pounds were voted by the British parliament to carry on the war, and Andierst was placed in connnand of the British and colonial forces, which by midsummer 1751) nuni- PURCHASE OF LOUISLVXA. 401 bercd fifty tliousanrl men, while the Frciicli army scaicclv exceeded .seven ththin<^ else would sntisl'y Pitt. To this end three eamjuiiufns were |tl;iniied: Amherst, with the main division, was to iiiarcli a,i^ainst TiconderoL?a and Crown l^oint; Pir- (Icaux was to take Nia<^ara and ^[ontreal, while Wolfe was to capture Quebec. Each accom}»lished his pur- ]M»se. On the ocean the war limbered for three years alter ]\[ontreal had fallen, l)Ut tiie British wereiinally \ iiiorioiis, and hy tiie treaty of Paris, made the lo'ili (»f Fehruary 17G:3, half of the area of Xorth Aiiu) ica cluuiL^ed hands. To S[>ain, with whom Eni;'- laiid had also heen at war, France sinrendered that |)M]ti()ii of Louisiana lyin.n" west of the Mississi[)[>i, \\\\\\v Spain ceded to England all her domain east of that river. And thus it was made jjlain that decayiiiL? iii;(li;L'val institutions shoidd not stand before the en- linhtened and liberal proL'ress of the Xew World. \\\ the treatv (jf Paris, niade the ;jd of November 17M.'},*by which the inde[)endence of the United ►States Mas reco(rnized, Florida was ceded by (Ireat ]>ritain l)ack to Spain, and all I'^nijlish territoiy south (if tlie great lakes and east of the Mississip[)i fell into the hands of the American conicderation. The territoiy west of the Mississippi, called Lou- isiana, was held by Sj)ain until ISOO, when Xa])oleon causi'd a secret cession of that domain to be made to France, and [nepared to place an ariuy at Xew Hikans, which should there maintain his authority; l>ut the United States remonstrating, and affairs at li!»nie thickening, Napoleon finally authorized iiie sale • if Louisiana. Mr Jji»ingston andJanu-s Monioe wire ;ijil)ointed by the President to negotiate the ])Ui'chase. Terms were agreed uj)on by the .'JOth of April l.so;}, niid I'or Sll,-Jj(),000 together with the ])romise to pay certain claims of American citizens due from Kiance, not to exceed i?3,7aO,OO0 — .sla.OOU.OOO in all — Louisiana was added to the Liiited States. Hmt. N. W. Coast, Vol. I. 26 ,1 402 NEW FRANCE ANT) THE FUR-TRADE. P! ! () In determining tlie boundaries of tliis purelmse, Spain and (jreat Britain were concerned no less than the United States and France. The ]Mississippi River from the thirty-iirst jjarallcl to its source was tlie eastern hound, and the gulf of Mexico to the north of thu Sabine Kiver tiie southern without question. The thirty-first f)arallel from the Mississippi to tlu; Api)alacliic()la, and down that stream to tlio gulf, was claimed by the United States, France, and England as the south-east boundary. To this, however, Spain dissented, asserting Iberville and lakes Maurepas and I'ontchartrain to be the true line between Louisi- ana and west Florida. But she was finally overruled. On the south -west the line ran along the Sabine Kiver to the thirty-first parallel; thence due north t lied Iliver, and along that stream to the one huii- dfedtli deLjree of lon^j^itude west from (xreenwich ; thei»ce north to the Arkansas, and up that river to the mountains, following them to the forty-second parallel of latitude. Thus far the western limits were fixed after nmch disagreement; an' when the Ignited States would continue the boundary line along' tli(j forty-second parallel to the Pacific Ocean, Spain made but slight objection, and finally in the treaty of 1819 gave her consent. The northern limits of what should bo United States teriitory affected only that country and Great Britain, and the line of partition was finally made the forty- ninth parallel from the Lakeof thcWoods to the Pacific. Thus by the most momentous event of Jefferson's administration the possession of the great valle}' of the ]Mississippi fell to the United States. Out of the southern portion of the newly acquired domain was formed the territory of Orleans, while the remainder continued to be called the territory of Louisiana." "'IJetwccu the ycara 1803 und 1811) there waa some groiuul for I'oiitnv vei'sy, luit biiico tlic latter date nono whatever, exi,'ei)t as to the nortluiu line.' h'ii/jiat/i'K U. S., Hl'J, note; in American Stud' I'ttjin-.i see topics Tivi'ij of Paris, 170,) ; Drjinitc Treaty hitween Great Briluin ami the v. S., liS,>: Text (if the Loiiisiiiiia CesHloti, ISUJ; Jioiinikiri/ Coin'eiitioiw hetwteii the U. S, and Great lirilain, 1818 und 1840; Treaty of Wanhinyton, 1819. CESSIONS AND TREATIES. 403 By tlio treaty «»f Wasliinjxton of the 22(1 of Foh- ruaiy 1810, east and west Florida were eeded Iiy Spain to the United States; in consideration for which tile latter ])ower relin(iuished all chiini to Texas, and promised to pay her own citizens a sum not to exceed live millions of dollars damaj^'es done them by S[)anish vessels. Tiie Sabine Kiver at the same time was made the eastern boundary of Mexico. For many years in several ])articulars that portion of the partition lino between Canada and the United States extending from the Atlantic to Lake* Huron had been in dispute. At the treaty of Ghent, in 1 S14, it was decided to refer the matter to three com- missioners, but it was not until the Webster-Ash- burton treat} of the 9th of August 1842 tliat the question was finally settled, that portion of the treaty of October 1818 fixing the forty-ninth parallel from the Lake of the Woods westward as the dividing lino being confirmed." '-'It appears, ia their ij,'norancc of ■western geography, statesmen of that (luy .sii|ip()s((l tlio forty-nintli parallel crossed the Mississippi soiiiewhore, and it \v;is to tiiis point only, ]k)Uclietto nttinns, that partition should have liuen cairicd. ' I'lUt it was afterwards found,' he says, lirit. Dum. , i. H !l, ' that such a lin<' W(jnl(l never strike the river, as its highest waters did not I'Xtend l)e- yond lilt. 47' ;t(i' north, whilst the point of the Lake of the Woods, wlienco tile line was todi'j)art, strmd in lat. 4l>' 20' north, and therefore l()-t j^i'ographi- tid miles faither north than the source of the Mississippi. The fourth, article of tlio treaty of London in 17'.)-t provided for the amicable adjustment of this anomaly, hut its intentions were never carried into etlect; and tlie sub- ject cuino under the consiiha-ation of Lord Holland and the late Lord Auck- land, Oil one side, and Mr Monroe and Mr Pickering on the other, during the nciiotiations of ISIM). Tiie British negotiators contended that the nearest liui! iiom the I^iiko of the VVootls to the Mississippi was the boundary, ac- cording to the true intent of the treaty of ITS-'l; the Americans insisted tiiat the line was to run due west, .and, since it could never intersect tlio Missis- sippi, that it must run due west across the whole continent.' As I shall have occ.ision to disc'ias this mutter at length in uuother place, I will let it rest for tiie present. I I I I CHAPTEK XIII. FOREST LIFE AND FUR-HUNTING. NOKTUKRN' AVI) WksTKR.V Fcr TkKIIITOUY — PHYSICAL FEATrRES — HaDITATS Of Fi'K-i!KAitiNrairies, marshes, dry scranLjy undulations, and thirsty «leserts in (juick succession; })icture it a primeval wilderness, thickly inhabited l)y wild beasts and thiidy p(H)pled l>y wikl men, but w ith ci\ ili/.atitMi's latest invention brought to their border and kept for their present curse and tinal extint-tion in small palisaded squares fifty or three hundred miles apart by white men who ever and forever uvo-ed the Avild man aij^ainst the wild beast for the benefit of .he niii;kty and the cunninn' — imagine such a scene, and you liave before you tht dt)main and doin!j:s of the Honorable Hudson's Bay Company as it was iifty years ajjfo. For clearer conception, ])lace yoursilf ui>(»n the continental aj ex near the eivat National J 'ark and between the s[uings of the Columbia, the Colorailo, t*04j THE CONTINENTAL APEX. m >l . l\v ', and .r the lilty 1 th.- ; ami )liUli>, the Atliabasca, the Saskatchewan, and the Missouri rivers. The watci's of the first How westward, those of the second southward, of the third northward, of the fourth north-eastward, and of tiie tiftli south-cast- ward. Fi'oui v.hcre you stand, the continent slo])cs ill every direction. Britisli America sh)]>cs northward iVom the Ignited States border to tlie Frozen Ocean; the United States slopes southward from tlie ])i-itish American border to the Cahfornian and IMexicau gulfs: i'roni t.ie <^reat Rocky j\Iountain water- shed the continent slopes eastward to the Atlantic and westward to the I'ai'ific. J)y four main mountain systcn\s and a latitudinal divide of low taMe-land are forned the four hydro- gra|)hical basins of Xorth America, whence into tlio northern, western, and eastern (-ceans and thesoutlK-rn gull's is disehar<;ed one third of all the iVesh water that stands or Hows. TIk c^ four ranges, which cut + .ie continent intt) longitudinal stri[)s, are all jxirallel to tlie (veaii shore line, to whieh thev lie neai'est. Intween the Ajipalachian system of the i-ast and the lf,)cky Mountains of the west is the central ])]ain of the continent, which sweeps iVom the gulf of ^llcNico through tlic valley of the 3.[ississij)[)i round by the 8t Lawrencu to Ndsou River. iJeyond the 4'.)th paralK 1 dividi;, which, as from the east it a[)proa<'!ie.s the Kockv Moiuitains, is at once a ithvsieal as v.cll as ]>()liti('al jiai'tiiiou line, and on to the I'^rozen Ocean lies a broken f'Vil of transfixed billows seemingly limitless, and in its cold winter dress as silent as a iH't liiied sea. \Vestwai'(l of the Stonv Mountains, and until the Cascade and Snowv ramri's are reached, i^ ;i sandy basin, di-seit toward tlu! south but at tlu3 noilh fcJtiU;. Last of all, crossing the ( 'ascade -Nevada ridgo We conu; upon tiie warm garden-\alleyj'; of the i*aci1iv', tlu; Willamette of (Oregon, anreciseiy the lield, of all tlie wo»ld, a Ihr corporation miglit choo.se for a century or two ()t" exclusive dominion. StaiLinyr from the rujjged slK»res of Labiador, we PHYSICAL FEATURES. 407 lonvc without regret its bleak interior tal^le-laiid, cov- civil with stunted poplar, spruce, birch, willow, and aspen, and strewn with casibon-moss-covered bowMers, and })ass round throu<»;h Canada, with its irrei^ular plateaux, its wet wooded to v. ses and alluvial plains (•(»\ ered witli hard-wood forests, when we enter Rupert Land and Canada's north-west territories. Prominent here is frozen stillness, if it be winter, or if summer general wetness, with substrata of ice. Inlanegoos and Manitoba beside it. Deer, Wollaston, Athabasca, (jlreat Slave, Great ]"Jear, and scores of lesser sheets. By reason of these aqueous ^concatenations, this linking (>r lakes and rivers, one can travel from the Atlantic; to the Pacitic, from the gulf of Mexico to the Arctic Ocran, almost wholly by water. Throughout nmch of this domain the climate is divary, the country treeless, and game scarce. Tlu; w inters are extremely cold, the sunnners short, with idcntiful rainfalls along the eastern border, whose wialth is in its fislu'ries rather than in its furs. Tin; lichest of all that reuion, ai^riculturallv, is the fertile hilt extending from lied River to the Saskatclu'wan and the Rocky ^Mountains, at the threshold of which on the east lies the Laurentian wilderness. North of (10 vegetation almost wholly <'cases; and yet (Jods creatures are nowhere more boisterous in their Irolics than here. Notwithstanding so much general moisture, thei-e art' wide tracts sterile fr i tiryness. Rctwccn the (^hrA]»pt'lle and the Saskatchewan, west of tlu' looth nici idian, is along loni'ly waste of treeless jdain, lulling midst thicket-fiinged hills, while north of the chain <»t" lakes spreads an immensity of arid surface feebly 408 FOREST LIFE AXD FURHUXTIXO. U i supportinj^ a stunted ve<^ctation, often deolininiij into lUiseit absolute. West ot' this we find desert, |»raiii(', and forest; IV'acc River flows throuj^h niucli iu_iru(.,l countrv, l)etween high banks relieved in places hy wooded terraces, l)ut once upon the higher level l!i(3 indentations disaj)]>ear, leaving the eye to meet copses and j)rtiiiles in endless perspective. Although spring is tardy after the long cold winter, yet flowers are rpiick enough to l»l<)oin and grass to grow wlien once the snow melts, and summer with its rii)ening" sun and [)ure elastic air seems suddenly to dio}* upon the land, and finally to overspread the sur- face with a warm transparent haze, as if in tenderness to veil the land from such unaccustomed joy. Tn autunm nature assumes her most ooivrcMus draj>e]y. Even the shivering .shrubs tliat nesth- in some hollow or nervously ding to the base of liilh show color wlien tlu> frost strikes them, wliile i!ie luxuriant lon-sts revel in rainbow hues. A lortni;. !it later, and the gold and amber-leaved beech, the icd and yellow leaved ma[)le, and the copper-leaved o;ik, are strijtped of their gaudy drapery and stand nak. I upon an (Uidless sheet of snow. Then breatlies uposi them the moist breath of nature, and lo! every tv.l ;• is ji 'Welled, encased in ice which glitters in the s;m lik(^ a forest of glass. Pass over the mountains intf) British Columbii, and on tlu' rough, hilly plateau are found Mater, a;. I wood, and ))laiii, though there is no lack of v.il!, rolling nicuntains. bare and by no means pi-eposse- ;- ing. IJivt'rs juiv plow their (U>ep fmiows throu; !i the uneven suii'ace, and leap down the sides of t!ie plateau, 'i'liei-e are, iirst the ]*'raser, then Thomp.'.oii lliver, and Stuait, Jiabine,, Quesnelle, Okanagan, aiil C'hilcotin lakes and rivers. Almost all the tributaii-s of the great rivei's Iumc have a freak of becoming in- flate lakes. The rivers and lakes of tlie western shipe are less in number and extent th.iii SURFACE AND CLIMATE. 409 those of the eastern. With the ^rackenzie, Poaoo Eiver, the Athabasca, Saskatchewan, St Lawrence, Mississippi, Missouri, Yellowstone, ] Matte, Arkansas, anlateaux are barnai. A large level tract between Thoni[)S()n and Frnscr rivers is wooded. There are places in these high- lands of awful, uns[)eakable gi-andeur; towering cliils, yawning chasms; places where granite walls tower a tliousand feet and more abo^•e foaming water-falls, vvliich dash down cliffs and thuiulei- througli ravines, (l!(>\>;;ing the wild beasts' roar, and flinging rainbows tlirong'h the descending sjiiay up(»n the sky. Into the clear li(|uid blue, for example, of Stuart Lake, wlui'e the salmon after his wonderful journey from till' Pacific rests as a strange)-, foivst-clad ]>ronion- torics stretch themselves, while from its w"s((.i-n and nertlu'i-n shores tail mountains risi'. Near tlie lii<;hest l;ind that se[)arates the Arctic from the J^acilic is Miick-od Lake, whence to the Coast Range extends ;iii uneven plati'au, south of which are seas of grass with shores of ^()rl'.■^t. l'l\ce])ting north-western Alaska, the Pacific slojie is Avarnier, and toward the south drier than co;i('s|ioiiil- iiig latitudes on tlu^ Atlantic: and yet in j)laces it is fold enough. The coast of Ih itish ( 'olumbia is bi-okeii iiil ) island.-, and iidets which all'ird multitudes of e\- '•'•llint harbors. A'^anconver Inland is incky, inouii- t.iiiious, and wooded. Climate here is modilied by the ocean. The site of Victoi'ia is one of the most picl akc ol \n', the v.ostorn part only hoini^ densely wooded. Idaho and ^Montana consist of rollinj^ table-lands, with many nj,ang to the Great IJasin with no outlet for their waters, while the eastern part is drained by the Colorado. All this region is arid, with slugiLjish streams, brackish lakes, and sandy plains, interspersetl with small short ridges of mountains. The term prairie is apjilied to a variety of open h'vel surfaces. There are the alluvial jiraii'ies of til'.' ^lississippi Valley, the sandy praiiies of the ( >u'A])|)clle and Assinil)oine, with their saline [)onds h;df hidilen by willow and aspen Likewise parts of the low fertile belt of the Ked Kiver we minht call jiiairii'. The word jdains is also applied to innu- iiit'iablo localities; but what emiij^rants to Orejj^on and ("allfui-nia understood as the I'lains was the ceuntry tliey were obliged to cross with so nuich tedious labor Mliich sti-etches Westward from the ^tissouri along the l*latte, and far to the north anil to the south of it. Animals of various kinds, and fisli and fowl, were originally «listributed in prodigal ])r(»fusion through- out this region, though, as wi' have si'en, there were stei"il(^ places in which game was scarce. Almost eveiywhere beaver were pli'Utifnl: the shai|)-toothed otter, on whicli no otliei' beast, but man preys, likewise had a widi' range, ha\ing been seen in Mexico and ( V-ntral America; and on all the plains east of the liockv Mountains wire butlidoes: and indeed the bul'i'alo once found its way westward as far as the plains of the upper Columbia, but its residence there was of short duration. Mo(»se llour- ished about the Athabasca and IVace lliver country. 412 FOREST LIFE AND FURnUXTIXa. >■■ '■ In Arctic quarters were reindeer, herds of ton thou- sand hein_i( sonietinies driven from thickets to the shore of the ocean; also musk-oxen, white foxes, and pohir hears; brown, grizzly, and cinnamon I)ears were their neighbors on the south and dominated the foi-csts as far as Mexico. So numerous liere (hn*ing summer were geese, swans, ducks, pehcans, bustnrd, cianes, Jiiid cormorants as to cloud the sky, ann may l)e made of the walrus on Arctic shores, and seals, sea- unicorns, and black and white whales. ( Jcese and dut'^s were evt'ry where from the ^lexican gulf to the Ardic Ocean, and swans were plentiful in jdaces. Wolws were numerous at the north, and coyotes south. In the northei'n loresf • were also the raccoon, badger, and musk-rat; the gray fox I'ancied the prairie. l^etween the northern and southern extremes the elk ranged; likewise the black-tailed deer. The red deer or white-tailed deer enjoyed a wider range, cov- ering in fact almost the (.'utiiv continent. The ante- lope belonged specially to the great ]»lains. The mountain sheep and goats foimd their homes among the rocky crags of the continental range. Lewis aiid Clarke saw mountain shei'}) at the Cascades. The gi'izzly bear, tlie largest of Anujiican carnivora, lived in the mountains, though descending ev(>ry antuiiin to the plains for grapes and berrie:s. The Califoiiiia lion is little more tiian a huLje cat, but with st>nses exceedingly acute; the jtanther is his smaller brothtr. The wolverene spi-ead over the whole of northern North America, extending as far south as latitude ."'l* , or perha})s farther. The great interior valley bt'tweeu Hudson ]^av and the <>ulf of ^lexico was the habitat of the American badij^er; s(»uth-west of this limit was the Mexican badger. The special domain of the sea- DRESSING SKINS. 413 otter was tlio Xortliwest Coast, whoso shores and inlands it covei'cd from Ahiska t(» l^ower ( alif'ornia. Fish of all sorts aboiuidod in the lakes and rivers, the piscatorial feature of the Paeiiie slope huinjj^ its salmon. Over the phiins iiorthwaid and westward from the uulf of ^Nfexieo innumeraMc; hjinds of cattle and horses ran wild. Most marketable furs are [»ro- cured north of the fortieth parallel.^ It was the i)oliey of the fur companies not to ex- haust any part of the ct)untrv; hcnco when it is found tliat animals are on tho decrease, the district is ahandcjucd i'or a time ^rii lore wore places when l)e;iver were trapped but on-; season in live. Tlu! beaver was usually taken by means of a smooth-jawed steel-traj), fastened to a stake (h'iv(!n in the jtond near the (lam. ]\lost fur-bearinj^' animals were captured by a steel-ti;i|», poiseniuLC and shootiuL;' beinn' objection- able on account of injury to the skin. There wjis tli«. clumsy dead-fall contrivance, amony others, ^vhich the steel spring" trap suj)ersede(l. Vvlien stri[»|>ed, the skin was stretehed until dry, after which it was folded, with the fur inward. Ten (»r twentv made a bunritish American coni])anies were uiiilbrm in sixe and sh;)j)e, and were pressed by wedges or sci'ews into the smallest compass illK 1 1 lound wi til tl lonu's, th dl le smaller and tmei' sians I ii siKJi as \\\v. marten, musk-rat, and otter, of which there are oiti'ii four or live hundre(l in a bale, beinn' ]itit inside and incloseil by the c(nuser kinds, deer, ^vo]f, buii'alo, and bear. Iluiiteis commonly used the bi-ains of the aiiimal for (hess!iiL>' the skin. After the tlesh and i^rain were I /'r/W 111, 4:( : miui III I'ltjii r^. Hill llhrr S,lll< ninil, HJ; /h,U,.-i' //uls A i'ir/ii»i.ir n I rii jijii r K 1 1 T, M.'.; Jur/nirJs ■ I'liliir /I'liiii I til II, •_'.!, •-'7 t S4 ; Jliil^itiili/i.i's /liiil.-iiiii 1)1 11, (iO, (i(i; Sr< III < ill t/if I'liikij Mitiii'lu •JSS; \V,II., ill r /;. /;. '/. lU; / III II fl' I III s '/>.//vAs, 4:;i;; .lA oi-.j til , .1- ■-'IS- 17: f/i>in.<'sJiiiirii; /tiiniit/'ti /.'irul/ir/imis, MS., i. llS--_>(); Vii li. ,■'.■< Hi i-n-i'l' ir.,s7, <;-l-il; /,( V oik.s licloiigiiiy to hunting iiml iiuturul history. (/ < 'liir/.i'sJoiiriKi/, ,'{77; mi'l niaii} other 414 FOREST LIFE AND FUR-HUNTING. removed from tlio pelt it was sojjked in a decoction of brains and water, and rubbed with the hands as it dried. IJeiween 1812 and 1 841 the southern fur districts of tl»e J'acitic States, that is to sav the California eoun- try iyinjj^ between Oregon and Mexico, aside from in- dividual trappers and private tradiniij companies, was oceupicd by the llussians. l^ikewise at the I'xtreine north-west, fictm Simpson liiver to Berinj^ Strait, the llussians held sway; while from 1821 to IH-M, between these two distant [»oints the intermediate reLjion as well as the interior back of Alaska was dominated solely by the Hudson's Hay Company. The company then nund)ered among its servants many French Canadians, as well as Scotch, English, and Irish, though at first Orkney men were chitdly cm[)loyed as boatmen, lumters, and laborers. I will now endeavor to give the reader more complete knowledge of the origin and character of that singular class, the Canadian boatmen and fur-hunters, and tlicn proceed to institute some comparisons between them and the An ijlo- American wood-ranvd jjjiaduallv U) i)ress west and north. In a surprisingly short time the Fn^nch Canadian would heeome half savat^e, and so attached to his wil I life and associates that civilization with itsstiilini,' con- M-ntionalities and oj)pressive comforts became i'orever after rinci[)ally to traftickinLj with tlie natives; they were a »^o-between, assisting- both tlio iiunter an' the merchant. To the early Flench tratoek an( 1 labors in an adventure of six or twehe months, and ])enetrating the more distant paits they eitln>r followed the native's in tlnir hunting excursions, ur nieetiiiir theui on their return relieved theiu of their I 410 FOREST LIFE A\D FUR-HUNTIN'O. jn'c'cious Imrdtius in cxcliamn'c.' for Huch triHos as o;\j>ti- vatt'd the ivd nijin's cliildisli oyo. KettiiiiiiiL^' with lich carjLJfoc's, not unfixMiucntly at- t(ii(U'(l \>y a cttiicoiu'si' of savaL^c luiiitsiucii with lluir Avivfs and cliildi'di, tiicy wvn^ ^iVL-tcd witii snilKs anionic ircnc'ial I'ljoiciiiufs. Si'ttliiii^- tlu-ir arciaiiit \v"t!i tiic iiuicliaiit, thus insuriiiin' tivsh civiht, they l^iinc thciusolvcs up to plcasiu'i', and 'luickly s(|uand(ir(| .ill tlicii- ;4'ains. \ tV'W short days and nij^dits sulliccd to |ilacc iiair linancc's exactly whci'c tluy wi-rc a year or ten years In'ioiv- that is, at zero; and it is a (|ni'slion in whii'h they most delighted, the IVei- licentiousness of the I'oivst or thlishman, j)ossil)ly lie may not he so eiiduiiuL^. Jn this respect he is iKtt unlike the Indian: without a murnuu" he accepts sutferinn' as his late', heai'inn' ^M* ""^l^^'i" it with the utu'.ost j^-oodduunor: hut the apex of patience j)assed ••nd he at once su<'- cund)s. There is no wailing? over his fate; overcome l»y labor ami misfoi'tnne, or lost or starved in tin' forest, he lays himself down to deaili Avith tlii^ same nonchalance with which he hore life's heavy hurdeus. l>ut it was his Fi-eiich suavity of manner, his mer- curial li^ditdieartedness and soft winsome ways tlint ca))tivated the stern, staid Noilh American, and made the suvaLje love to have him near him. The Fuiili-h- 1 '■ ii TFIK FUFATIIMAN'. 417 iiiMM WMs ii luiiiLj to In- r('s|u'('t(Ml and (riirtMl, the l''itncliiiiaii to l)f cmlti'iicc'd and l<»V(d; luiifc, \vl> .11 I'loiii Monti'cal, soon at'tor ('artier liad loiiiid that Itl.lCC tl \r sons of s\V('( •t V raiifc, witli lioarts a> li-ht and huovant as tlu'iv littK' l»oats, ])addl('(| thrir way far up sli'f.nns nrw to I'iUi'oju'an eyes, and with the t't-arlt'ss playtuhu'ss of kittens sjMvad tluii" hiilliaiit trinkets lirt'ore eyes jj^litteriii*^ with adinii-ation, and roaX(.'d and cajoh-d thesi; dismal denizens of thi* forest, (|ui«kly I'allinLj into their ways, (piickly |iei'eei\ in^' all theii- weaknessi's, <|iii('kly throwini^ <»tr whatever re- niaininn' shreds ol" civilization nii^dit yet he haiinin-^ to themselves, and hecMnnini^ as tilthy an. .\nd so, eomini,'' and .i^'oin;^ hetween town and en- campment, lioatinn' streams and lakes, and trampiiij^" forests and prairies, workinijj, playiiiijf, buy in_<4', selling", launhin^, sinirin^', prayini;', sweai'in^', hut always cither sweatiiiL;' for nain or re\'ellino of heart, head, and natui'e. They easily aftected the weaknesses of their forest friends; adoptecl lon^' hair, which if liuht and curled (It li;;liti'(l ( lusl s; and if suiliciintly icnenadi- Mud Na^'raiit they did not ssive hy vermilion, i;rea am ochre, to receive theii- boiled butfalo meat and li_;hted l»ipe from the hand of an atiectionutc and admiring UUT. N. W. O0&8T, Vol. I. 27 -' ' i.!if i Mil 418 FOREST LIFE AND FUR-IIUNTINT,. native iiym[>li, or even to assist in the national scalp- takiiiL? 'nu'lr heaiitiful lanLTiuiLro irreatlv (kteii orated wli t !! broui^lit into such familiar contact with tho liarsh j^uttural of the Anierican al)orininal. In disposition and dailv intcrcourso with each other thi;v were iffecti out an( I ol>li dd iH'nii,% audressiiiL^ eacn otner as th 'cousin' and * bi'othei',' with constant intei'change of kind otKces. Excejit when under cuii^ai^enunit, at wliich times they worked fast and faithfully, thry wer-i' as lazv as they were imi)rovident. To their em- jiloyers they were respectful and sui>missive. In all his lon-^and perilous joui'neyin'^s, Mackenzie i\ienti<)ns hut oni' act of wilful disohechcnci', and that was a I'efusal to descend a fearful rapid in a crazy canoe, to Avhich any iVeeaufent in his s(!nses would liave ohjeeted. And although a \villini4", <"<'mpetent, and faitld'ul ma i. for this siiiL-le act he was stii'inatized hv his com- -h Ui d mandei" and iiis comi'ades as poltroon .''iid cowiir> his contentedness in lowly estates, lie seiuis to take to Scotc-h service^ as nat uiallyas to savaije domesticity. Altiioun'h he loves to talk, and dance, and sinti'. he does not disdain work, jiarticulai'ly ilail- minis(( ird spasn«odically ; ad in not too larL^o dosi's. 'JMiis willin^nt'ss always to remain the Scotchman's beast of liurdcn may he tracrd likewise from hisoiii^in t. His mother count rv a IK I A lurricjtn envuM.MUien and his Mncestors were a mixiui'e of I'eudalism and dt- inocrary, of popciT and j)roteslant Ism. The jieopk! w«'rc! nothinLT, the ;^(»verMn)ent e\i rythiiii^'. I'lirsts and princes divided hctwcon tiiem tlu' fruits of the pea.sant's lahoi-. So in the eai'ly s( ttliMuent ii/inii(j(', which made a stockade the necessary heiLjinniniLj of e\e» ' town. There the old system was continued; seiun jurs were [''■>H HALI- BRREDS. 41!) 1)0111 of scijxncurs, and serf's of serfs. Oovernment was not lor tile hottiycoisic; and the more liaULfhtily the J'ritislicr eari'ied hniiself, the more ()()r voyaufeur. The indei)endent life; wliich he lost with loss of eountrv, the aholition of the license system and <(eneral e^an^•e <»f customs, I will not say wvn) nut severelv felt. It was a sad hlow tt) the French Canadian when i'rom his unrestrainetl condi- tinii he was ohliujed to descend and take service with his country's enemies; hut being forced to it heyiehU'd L;racefully. lleligion, T must say, laid its ictters lightly upon the (iallic adventurer in the New World; i'or unlike thi' Spahish zealot or the Knglish puritan, tht^ mer- curial mind of the Frenchiiiaii, who at home was soiin'thii g of a I'ree-thinker, became emaneipate(l fifiiii traditional thraldom alm<»st immediately upon l.inding anndig the strange scenes of the western wilderness; so that while on thc^ St I^awreiice. Jesuit, I'l'anc'iscan, and ( alvinist fought lor the juomul- gation of theii' own peculiar faith, the tough coii- letiis des l>ois, delighting in adventure, cared lit lit; for eitht'l'. As the }>lood of the Frenchman mixed more and more with that of the native Anu-rican the oceuj»ation ef \oyageur fell into the hands of half-breeds, in whom \\;is imited to ^ome small <\tent the intilliu'eiice of (•i\ ih/.ation w Lh ti e instinctive cimning of sa\agism. IVmii tlu^ former they inherit a social disposition, tViim i\\v iattev gregarious liabits. Their home in winter is a lixed l(»g-hoase, in summer ;i nioval.l v> i^■\vam. Their la/y ell'oits at agriculture aiv usti.illy ned witii ill success; thougii where the bhtod is crow Ivb l>l'(iperly l)re\Ve( produced tine farms. il with suitable sun and soil they have }■ !IT '■>^vQ SHIiiihtii'ti Jimnitil, .\i\unnry \S'M, ',\\\ 'J!); IIhiiik'I, Ui'>t. I'lul.. viii. Siii.yiiiii ,H l/n< •')!)- I):t: iit'siili'M ii,;iil I'll,- l.iiiitl, M\ .'».">; Willi A'l nilir M,„i/li/ii..\i\\;mi-\ IsTtl; /'" I liist iirv iiii'l tiav( Is; //../,; Ill ,/,'x />, ■' r/M, i. '/., i\. 107. IIS |!l; Ml ri(k'/< .I'll'., -7 !S, Il'J; Ami' rsiin'o yoiihinHt Cvuet, MS,, '2'Ji-b, Irrni'i II '■l1 FOREST LIFE AND FUR-HUNTIXO. Altlioiiij^li tlio Ani^lo-Ainorioan wood-raniofprs hv- cauw (leinorali/.wl en()ii;^li in tluir iiitiiuju'v witli tlic natives, and althoiiu^h thvy were ]»orliaj>s coarst-r, more brutal and Moody in thcirstate of scnii-savajL^dsm than tlio b'roncli, the ti'a[)j)or upon tlio United States fron- tier never l)ecanie so a ]>art of the IncUan witli whom ]i(! assoeiated as did the Canadian; and for the very good reason that lie ('()uld not. ]5et\\een the English cohuiists and the American uhoriginals there was ever a deadly antagonism, which (li inner j»lo\v aircunmlation of furs and of hi"in;L^ini,^ tluni to market, then at hist ol" ai'riviiij^ at a ien(K.z\(ms, fort, oi- town; think of the whole cateh heinjjf every dnihir thi; |)(»or fool is woilh, except what he may cairy (»n liis back; think of tlu' results of all this i-isk and lalntr h> ini;" s(juander( (I in thiee days, in two days; or of the hunter after a .sin'jlu niyiil's levelrv iioinsj' hack to the forest as j)ooi- as when he lirst went there, an'ain to «;athi'r and to s(juandei'. I say thi' fin-huntir is, if jiossihle, more insane- in hi.s dissijiations tlian the L;.)ld-huntei-: for the former take's ^n-atcr risivs, and is suiv of nevei- secuiiiiLf a loi'tune, which the latter never forgets is within his raiii^e of ]»ossii»ilities. ►Since the discoMiy of yold in fnrdumtin^* districts llie two puisuits have often keen united. In IJritisii (ithunhia many mined duiiuL,^ sununer and trajiped ill winter. Nor were j)artners and proprietois iVee \'n>\\\ this propensity to prodiLjality. Nowhere was i\fr seen more lavish hospitality (hu-inj.*' the earlier \«;irs <»r this ceiitui'y than in the homes of the l''ro- I'isliers, the Mc( JiHi\rays, and the Mc'l\-i\ ishes of .Montreal, who vied with each othei' in luxurious osten- tation and convi\ ialitv. Wlu-n the fiU' kiu'^ tra\elle(f lie was, like the I'epresentative ('alifornian «•!' Is.")(), a marked man. Mi»re paitii'ulaily the jeweller knew liini. ( )nce haviiiLC fallen within the sui)tle inlhience of I'nrcst fascinations, few e\-ei' weri' content to retmn tit the stilliiiL,'' atmos|)here t>i' straitlaced e(in\«iit inn- .ilisms. Of all the thousands who left l(»\inL;' Ik arts and wendi'd their wav to the wilderness, ntit one in ten was evt-r heard of l»y his friends ai^'ain. Some perished fi<»m hunger or fatii^ue; >omi- uei-f stun-^ hy Miiomous J, tiles, or were torn in piecis l»y wild lieasts; some fell 'rom elitls and others were swallow rd i 42*2 FOREST LIFE AND FUR-HUNTING. 1)V treacherous waters; fever seized sonic and irv winter «)tliers; and finally there were those who w( ru tortured to death hy savay;es, and those who were shot l'i of LTold-s^atherinyf. JJoth were alluring in their risks no less than in their it - wanls. While holdin<'" their victim firndy within their giasp, both encouragt'd him with the peipetual hope of some day i-etui'ning to honu^ and friends, even hini- silf not knowing that he would not if he could. It is th(> fate of progressive humanity always to be wanting something; nor do f sei* that it matters much whether it be emi)ire, fame, or beaver-skins that inge men forward. As we are constituted, something with- in must prompt action, else were we already de.n!, though foi'tuiu' Hit us for yeais to come. Iler-e in the wildeiiiess we see comforts abandoned and life sys tematically risked for so poor a trifle that niaiiy would not ?-ea<*h out their hauil to obtain it. Without a inui- mui' we see hardships met befoie which brave in n might <|uail without dishoncu'; met and held in cheer- ful »'inbiace until violent death or |>remature old ;ige cuts short their cai'cer. As matters (»f course, Iniig, «liflicult,and dangerous jo\u'neys nre undi'rtaken my tradei-s, who hy retaininijf them near at Iiaml not oidy added to their strenjj^th and safety, hut to their profits, as witii tl'eir liquor and supplies it was seldom ditlicult to secure all the I'urs a hunter could gather, and keep him in debt besitle. Tn furdumtinuf i»nrlance the word voyage was ap- jtlicd to all terra<|Ueous journeys, and rui/(i'hry wei\i simply l)oatmen, that is to say, French Canadian boat- men, thougii tlieir duties weie vai'ious, and ;is such thev retained their neculiarities until their c; bnsli I'jiiigi'rs as tht'V art' sometimes called, wcie tlioso oiijinidlv bi'ou^ht into vet <'l(»sei' contact with the native's, eating, sleeping, and himting with tli- in, nnd so ({('generating int() savagism, (tidy tlie more (piickly to disappear with their savage fiiends, while the boat- men, ;is in(li\idu.d tralHc becam- less j»rofitaI)li\ took s(i'\ ice with t lie fin comiianies, an«l l>y pusliing fart her ;iiid i'artlier iii(«» the w ildei-ness, i-etaincd llicir indi \ iduahtv nil td til ( ir occupation was gone Tl ic w ood- rumier ol" ( 'an;ida was about on a par with thetiupper ol" the I'liited St;'t( »ne wlio hiintci citlicr for limscU' or Ibi an expedition or com|»any win the boatman proper ahnost necessarily took service either ^M 42t FOREST LIFE A\D FUR-HUNTIXO. for a longer or shorter ju'iiod, fsjtccially in later yiais. ^vitll a fiu-ljuntliiL!; conipaiiy. Tlic J^'i'dicli (';i!i;i have IxM-n cMlK-d tlir liiicst l)oatincii in tlu' world. This statt^nu'Ut, |K'rha|»s, is tnu' il* coiifim-d to white iiu'ii. Hut thei-e jire iiiMiiy tri!)(s of liier; ilal. and so li-jht a> ti' he easily cairied. In their constru»'d in>tead ot pitch. I)ischarn'ed Iriim an enLjaLrenient, the \'iyaii'eurs Were very much like sailois a>iiore. S«nue tew carried their earniuijfs to their wi\es, hut most ^>^' them la\ isiied theii" ^ains upon their swe» tliearts, huu^hi I'T themscK-es new finely, and ute, drank, and playttl until nothing- was T left. H'.ake up a company of Noya^eiu's t.»i- an expeth- lion »".as like enrollin;^' a eri'W of sailers fn- a voyage. They wtic usually enna^i-d tor a cci-tain time, and rectived part of their |iay in ad\anee, as they were prosc-i'hially p<-iiiile->, and n< -ded an enTiit. I^sides INLAND NAVICATION. 42.') linviiiLT <>M j^roi'cs to |>ay. Tlwn ilici'i' iviusf Ik- a iifcli- t ral ciroiisi' with tlu-ir iViiinls Ixlnrc iiuitiii^-, at wliicli they (liiiiU, li.u'lit, frolic, and tlaiiif imlil it is tiiia- lor lliiiii to take tliL'ir \t\iwv in the boat. It is a wild uiif'ittci'cd lil'f, a huoyant, joyous, rcv- iHiu^", rollickiiij;- lit'r, full of iH-aiity, with cvci- IVcsli and it'cuiriiij^ tascination. Sec tlu'iii as they sit at iii;;iit ratiii;^, sjiiokiiii^, and chatting; I'ound the iiidily (•aiiij»-lipc, with wt-ai'V liiuhs and soiled clothes, alter a day <»r many |»orta'4''s, oi- |terjia|»s aller a wreck in a )M|)id, or a heating' stoi'in, their dark luxuriant hair liillinn' in tan'uled Ui-isses i-ound their Kron/id laces, and theii' uncouth liLjuro ca'^tiii;;- weird shadows on the l)aek]:,n'olUlli>jic(l water, ^trikini;' up their morniu'^' s<»n'j^ to the soft, low- in thmic dip of theii paddhs, which rise :ind fall in iiiirNon as il I no\ >■( I 1 >v on hand he tleelieUMI''" thish Upon the sky, as fi: m some hui;-e heacoii lire, hidden l>eyond the distant hills, marks the ajiproach of all awakeniui;' day ; lirst sei-n Hooding;' Hie landscape with a iiacklin'^ li'^iit ani>u\ petrdaction mto respon>i\e hein;."'. Landing aiioul nine o'clock, hicakfa^t is hastily < ookcd and eaten : t hen 'ouio t he lon^-, >tron!4. h a\ v pllll of tlie d.i\ if it he up the >tr»am, or the llecjUcnt di ath (lod<;inn dcNceiit of rapid> if it he downward; a li\e-minute pipe of' tohacco e\i r\ two lii>ur.s. diams at staked intvi\iil>, usually thiiv or foui' a »lay if wm II, 1 !■ ^ffi ' rffi : k p H ' ^ HI ^ [ IBS < li' 420 FOREST LIFE AND FUR-IIUXTINTr. li(|U()r 1)0 i)lc'ntiful, and liiiiflicon in tlic boat at noon; and tlms the usual routine wears time away. One other ])icture, and <»nly one. may iittinj^lv l>e luniLT heside that of hyperborean morning', and that is summer's <^^ol(|(>n sunset. ]?aint .leJKtv.ih, Joy, and life with a liandf'ul of clay! Faintly, ah I how Taint ly to yeainiiiL? (tonseiousness nature's surjiassinj^ ladiance is t'elt; hut n<> toiiLTUe of man mav name it. Never- theless tlieso ])oor ij^noi'ant French boatmen felt it, were; thorou'ddv in svinnathv with it, were indeed a. |>ai-t of it ; and from their lips broke sjiontaiieous son-^', half ))i-ayi'i-, half praise, which brought them neai'cr heaven than mi<>'ht have done anv catliedral choir. The ])lay " can be more impressi\(; than natui'e's silent voit-e hit in tlic frai^a'ant air, breathed (t\er the jilacid lake by the avinn was sti-uck and tlie jdaintive paddlin;^' nu'lody, M'hirh the distiint listener mi_L,dit almost fancy to I»e the verv voice of mountain, wood, and stream united, SWi ■lied oil neaier ai>i>roa<-Ii int \\l o a iivmn ol dceo maniv lb exultation, and with tlourish of paddle kee[tiii;^- timt; to sonjjf and chorus they swept round bi-nd or point, nnd landei'd the timid di'ei" or ea^le j)oisrd «»n cloud-ti|t])i'(| moun- tain to pause and listen, or which mi<;lit ahuosl briii'j; to life tlu> tree-toj> l)nried mummy of their red-fai-;'d friend. It was a most brilhaiit and insp.iiitiii'. to stand upon the bank and wiln th ai'ii\a 1 of bii''ade of li''lit canoes, daslnii''' up with arrow swift- THE FLU llllIOADK 427 i' liiiiu'*!, luniilv iut, i)(> :UV-i'C(.'llf 111 ..r a ■;\v ill- ness to tlio very (mIij^c of the little* wharf hcfiiiv' the lort, then, like a Mrxican with his mnstanuc, eoniin;^' to a sudden stop, a«-coni|>lishe(| as if hy niiiatlc hy haekiiiLf water sinndtaneously, caeh witli his utmost strenufth, then rolling,' th<'ir paddles all tonctlur on the gunwale, shake fVoni their l>ri'>ht vcrniihon Mados a shower of s|>j'ay, iVoni which the rowers litj^htly cnii-ri^e as I'rom a eloud. At any of the forts aloni^ the r' ht 1 las heen fre(|uent and exhilaiatini^ at all the posts durin;^^ the )»ast century what shall we say of the numerous fleets that enlivened the solitudes during- the palmy (lavs of the Northwest Companv!* IVtween Montreal and Fort William not Kss than tt^n hriucadi-s of twenty •h .1 t canoes eaen used to j)ass and rej)as.s evi-iy summer, carryinn" suj»plies to the country al)ove' and briii;_;iii,n' se fantastically painted ;i:i I hrinht-j)addled hoats itisliin^- thi-oii;:h the water .it leindeer speed uiidei' a cloud of llyiui;- sju-ay toward their last landinu', while in the hi-east of every tu;- '.riii;4 oarsman t Iiere were t wenty ca^cd Iio/.a'inas which, 1 isiiiM- faintly tirst, wei-e poured in soni;' u|)on I he hree/e fi-oiii ti\-e hiuhlred tfiundous ton^Mies, until linally. oicakmo- all control, they would hurst loit li m ;.;le was a iUet of boats, some- !M If 42S FOnKST LIFK AND FUR riUNTIXd. times 11 (ijiiii of horses, and soiiictinu's a tiaiu n(' llUluh'ed horses, liideii eaeli with two paelva^cs of I'lirs, wintliiij^ with the narrow trail roinie whei-e one is hroiinht Tare to face witii the |»r(»hahihty of deatli in tile form of an attackiiii;; I'oe, niiin or heast, than thi; i'unnin'4' of i-apids, which in I he watercourses of hyper- l)or»'an America are a featur*'. {.ipids Were rnn nnder two conditions, nninteii tionally .ind intentionally. 'I'he explorer descending- ;in unknown stream mii>-ht lind himself suddenly in the toils of waters. An i»minons roar would lirst notify him ofdaiiu'er from which retreat was impossihie, the only coiUM' heinj.;' in directing' the Ixtat down the toi-rent. At sui h times thoui^ht and iiction must he simullaneons; for the hoidman, knowing* nothinin' of tin" current or what the next instant, would hriu'^' l"oi-th, had only his eye to Ljuide him, and should his frail cr.ift strike upon a rock it was dashed in pieces. It is dillicult tt> coii- cclNC of a place wliere coolness and tjUlcUness \\( l( jntire re(piisite, for hesides the tinnult. in which Ih d 1 oimd liimsell enyan'tM If h.-k new not the moment w Ihii II >th lie inii^'lil come upon a, |)erpen(l!cular lall or otlx r im- knowii passage to ine\itahU' dt stru<-tion. Such eases, Ik »ur\('i, weiT not i'onunon. There was iv;citt'nu'nt •iioUi^h in shooting- a rapid where kno\vl- elu'e was unitetl with skill and the veutiU'e was made deliherately, vapitis w» ■re rim with full or half-loaded hoal: sometimes part of the men wt.mld step out to liL^hlen tiie hoat ; or carjLjo and men, all .savi' the boatmen, mi^^ht he discharged, leaviiii;' tlu' canoe empty, A. th le rajiKl is approaclied tlie i>owinanai d ste ers- UrWIXC OF n.MMDS. 4J0 nioTi ris(» oroct and «jiiirkly cxdiinii,'!' tin ir oars lor slioi't |>a«lillcs; tlicii |irnt t'urth all their st relict h upon their «»ars that it may l»e the ltett( r Uuideil. Thus into the seethiiiLf tjoud the frail hark dowii- wai'd j»hm;^es. Now it i-iishes, as it' to iiievitalije destruction, towaid a rock; l»iit our stroii'^ siiiiul- taiieoiis stroke ot" hoNvmaii and steersman, who always ai't ill coiieert, sheers it f'o)-c and alt t<» iily to find itself instantly upon an- other, luitil tinally with loii'^-drawn hreath it reaches the (|uiet waters hrlow, if indeed it be not wrecked ill the perilous |)assaLje. h is interest iii'^' to maik the carriaLje resj>ectively of voyai,''eur and Indian in su«-h i-nierLjencies: one nier- lily chants his hoat soult, the other is stern as silent death. N'et as the i'linchiiian in inaiiy I'espects so readily hecaini' Indian, so the Indian in some few thiii'^^s hcsidc drinkiiij^, smokinL,^ sweariuLif, and tho like, hecauu! Kreiich. In due time the sava^je hoat- niaii so far foi'Ljot his taciturnity as to take up the custom of sinuin'4". wJiich eiialded him to |taddle nioii! >t<'adi!v ai Ml Kec » hrlter til lie It IS etKlllett*' now auioiii!^ the natives of l>iiti>li ('olumhia for the steer-;- nian to lead with the soni^^, the crew joining only in tl le c||(»l'US. Iletween the cauoeincn there was fpiite a distinc- tion. T\u' foreman and steeisman were th ose oil w lit >i' skill and iiei've the safety of life and carL,'o (IcpeUi I.mI; I lence their i>av was often twice o|- thrice MS much as the middk-uien, who merely [tro[>ellc'il the hoat. ,,f I U ill 1.6 fliotographic Sciences Corporation # r<\^ V :\ \ fN^ c.^ rv^ <^ as WEST MAkN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y H580 (716)872-4503 430 FOREST LIFE AND FUR-IIUXTIXG. --,■. i ■A ' I' ■ To mako these merry boatmen, who in the face of fatigue, hunger, or danger would strike into a Cana- dian barcarolle as they lustily plied their paddles, material was necessary different from that brought from the Orkney Islands, which was well enough in its v/ay, to be sure, staid steady Scotchmen, but slow, clums}^ without skill and without enthusiasm, and far from their border land of naturalness. While boats, horses, and sometimes carts were em- ployed in summer travel in many parts of British North America, only snow-shoes or sledges drawn by dogs could be used in winter, the streams being frozen over. A dog's sled, to which three or four intelligent brutes are hitched tandem, is usually about nine feet long by sixteen inches in width. It consists of two thin boards, of oak or birch, turned up in front and lashed toijether with deer-thonsfs, sometimes with sides, but often without. Sleds of double width are made, before which dogs, usually six in number, are harnessed two abreast. Four doars will draw from two to four hundred pounds twenty-five or thirty -five miles a day. Thus journeying as day dcpnrts and the crimson liiilit fro" 1 the western hori lushes the cold white solitude, the traveller look >out hnn for a restmg- place. Water and wood are usually the first con- siderations in selectinof a site; sometimes feed for . 1 • • animals and protection from savages claim attention. Quick work is made of it when each of the party has his special duty and knows how to perform it. An Indian woman will have her lord's tent ready while yet his animals are scarcely unladen. Camping in the forest in winter, while one is felling trees for the firo another spreads branches for beds; others prepare food, brought in by the hunters, attend to cargoes and boats, or wagons and animals, as the case may be. A fur- trader's tent or lodge on the United States frontier et)nsisted of eight, ten, or twelve poles, the lower ends of which were pointed and placed in the ground so as to DRESS AND FOOD. 431 ,cc of ddlcs, gli ill . slow, nd far ro em- 3ritisli Avn by frozen iUigent no feet of two >nt and ;s with dth arc bcr, arc kv from rty-fivc irimson white L'csting- st con- bed for cntion. rty has it. An while f in the the fire prepare oes and be. A Hfrontier ends of iso as to y describe a circle eight or ten feet in diameter, tlio l)lunt tf'ps being drawn together and fastened by thongs. Tliis frame was then covered l)y dressed bullalo-skins sewed together, but left open in one place for entrance. Xothing was more cheering than a blazing log camp-fire in the wilderness at night, and nothing more pictu- resque than a band of hunters in their long hair and fanciful costume flitting before the ruddy glow wliich threw weird figures upon the surrounding foliage, or reposing at full length after supper, smoking, laughing, chatting, and story-telling. Of the French and Scotch fur-hunter the ordinary dress was a striped or colored cotton shirt, open in front, leathern, woollen, or corduroy trousers, and a l)lue cloth or blanket capote, that is, an outside gar- ment made from cloth or a blanket, having a hood, and serving the double purpose of cloak and hat. This was strapped closely to the body by a scarlet worsted vest. Capotes were sometimes made of leather, lined with flannel and educed with fur, which made them very warm. The conhiroy pantaloons were frequently tied at the knee with bead gaiters. When the capote was not employed, head-dresses were as varied as they were fantastic. Some wore coarse cloth caps; over tlieir long black glistening hair some wound a colored liandkercliief into a turban; black beaver hats ainonsj the more foppish, and bonnets with gold and silver tinsel hat-cords were now and then seen, almost hid- den, however, under feathers and tassels. Ornamental moccasins covered tlu; feet; round their swarthy necks ])rllliant cotton handkerchiefs were tied sailor iasliion, and from their scarlet belt were suspended knife and tobacco pouch. Leggings were fretjuently worn; and when the cold was intense, two or three suits would be put on at once. The voyageurs loved to decorate any part of their dress with plumes and bunches of iHvers colored ribbons with the ends gayly floating in the breeze. 432 FOREST LIFE AND FURHUXTIXG. Somewhat similar was the dross of the United States trapper, though greatly modified. The blanket coat, often without tlie hood, the moccasins, and the deerskin pantaloons were there, though in place of ribbons, feathers, and tassels leather fringes answered every purpose. As an outside garment a shirtof leather or tiannel was worn belted round the waist. Kit Carson dyed with bright vermilion the long fringes of his soft pliable deerskin hunting shirt and trousers, not disdaining to ornament the latter with porcu- pine quills of various colors. A rich fur cap covered his head and embroidered moccasins his feet. On his left shoulder he carried his gun, while under his riglit arm hung his bullet-iiouch and powder-horn. At his belt were fastened sheath-knife, tomahawk, and whetstone. For food the fur-hunter took what he could get. As a rule his chief dependence was his rifle. His diet was principally meat, fresh or dried. Sometimes for months or even years he saw neither bread, salt, nor any vegetable. j\Ieat alone, fish, flesh, or fowl, was all his lardei' contained, and well contented was he always to have it full, cN'cn of his sole sustenance. To a cap- tive among the Indians living only on meat, bread becomes distasteful. But usually each fort had its little garden-patch, and in some instances even grain was raised. The rations a voyageur received, however, were very difl:crent in the several parts of the fur-hunting region. Thus in New Caledonia there miijht be ffiven him for his day's food a dried salmon or eiofht rabbits: at Atlui- basca it would be eiglvt pounds of moose meat; on the Saskatclicwan ten pounds of buffalo meat; at English Ilivei- three white fish, while in the far north his fare would be half fish, half reindeer. Rations, however, were by no means regular; when food was plentiful, all finvd sumptuously; when scarce, each contented himself with his portion, whatever that PEMICAX. 433 iTiii/lit be. Every cdiblo substance tliat came to hand was utilized. Roots were sometimes dug and berries dried. Geese and ducks were taken at Fort York in great quantities in summer and salted for winter use. Complaints were frequent at the fur companies' posts by the servants as to the quantity and quality of their food. Wilkes testifies that the men's ra- tions at Fort "Vancouver were not what they should l)e. When a little forethought and application were sure to bring abundance theie seems no excuse for a lack of plain healthy food. Men receiving seventeen pounds per annum, though board was included, could not ■sometimes with their wages thrown in obtain food and clothes enough to make them comfortable: and the fur-hunters' ideas of comfort were by no means extravagant. ]\Iuch, however, was the fault of the men themselves; for land was allotted them, and time allowed in which to plant and gather; or if that were too nmcli to expect, wives were furnished them of whom it was the fashion to make drudges. In preserved food the great staple is pemican — that is, dried meat pounded. The flesh commonly used is that of the buffalo, deer, elk, or antelope, and for long keeping, as in Arctic voyages, it ma}'' be prepared with fat, spices, and raisins. For it, as for many of their forest conveniences and comforts, the fur-hunters arc indebted to the Indians. Pemican is prepared by cutting the lean flesh into thin slices, and partially cooking or curing them in the sun, by exposure to frost, or by placing them on a wooden grate over a slow fire. When dried they aro pounded between two stones or with other implements. Often the sun-dried flesh-Hakes are baled. But this is simply dried meat; it must be broken into small ])ieces before it is pemican. When thus pulverized it is put into a bag made of the animal's hide, with the hair outside ; after being well mixed in about equal proportions with the melted fat of the animal, HIBI. N. W. Coast, Vol. I. 28 434 FOREST LIFE AND FUR-HUNTING. the bag Is sewed up, when it cools and hardens, and is ready for storage or transportation. In tliis state it will keep for years, but should it be massed in large quantities it is inclined to ferment in warm weather, in M'hich case it must be opened and aired. It is usually eaten uncooked, and without salt or other seasoninst no occasion while indulging himself in every excess to inculcate precepts of virtue and preach morality to others. The wrath of God and the suvu-'eness of Indian nature were alike th tei thJ pr: ab HALF-BREEDS. 545 The fur companies have generally acknowledged the claims of their half-breeds to protection and sus- tenance, and this class has never been forced into savagism. Attached to the Northwest Company in 1817 were fifteen hundred half-breed women and chil- dren; so many, indeed, that the company forbade their servants taking new W'ives from the forest, there being sufficient of tliis mixed element for all practical purposes. Several thousand dollars were about this time subscribed by the partners and clerks of the Northwest Company to establish a school at Rainy Lake or Fort William for the education of their chiklren. The liquor question was always one of no small moment to the fur-trader. The savage took greedily to intoxicating drink and tobacco from the first. His passion for rum and whiskey approached madness, and his only idea of happiness in the bottle was dead- drunkenness. Anything he had, his gun, his horse, his wife, he would give for a quart of bottled oblivion. Intoxicating drink was not only the strongest magnet for bringing hunters to the forts, but its pur- chasing power was greater than that of any other commodity. Hence the constant temptation to swell the profits by dealing out fire-water. But experience soon taught that the advantage thus gained was temporary; that the Indian would not hunt so lonf»: as lie could get drink; and that it was not only safer, but in the long run more profitable, to dispense entirely with the destro3'ing liquid in abo- riginal traffic. To collect furs the Indian must pos- sess his senses; to endure the winter's cold he must be fed and clothed; drink destroyed his energies, alj- sorbed his property, and left him hungry and naked. held up as a warning. In liis old age, overcome by jealousy, ho is said to have poisoned two of his young women. See Good\i Brit. Vol., MS., 1 lG-17 ; Ileartie'x Joiiriiti/, 62; li(il/anti/ne''g Hiulnon'n Bai/, 107; Tach-'n Xort/witit, 97-110; liiitler'ii Wild North Land, 45; Kaiie'n Wauderbifjs, 75-G; Gruitt's Ocean to Ocean, 175. Hist. N. W. Coast, Vol. I. 35 I 1 I •I 'li i I 546 ATTITUDES OF FUR-TRADERS AND NATIVES. Tlic great monopolies, therefore, had no difficulty not alone in reguhiting the trade within tlieir terri- tory to suit tlieniselves, hut in forming compacts with their neighhors prohihiting the traffic. It was only when opposition was rampant that prudential prin- ciples were thrown aside, and the fragrant forest air was thickened with the fumes of vile distillations. In 1742 by the French in Canada the traffic was forbidden, and to trade required license and passport; yet the governor winked at it, and the trader met with little difficulty when liberal with his profits to the officials. The missionaries affirmed that tlie devil, to pervert the gospel, had with the gospel sent rum. Therefore the}' bestirred themselves to thwart the adversary; and for a time the prohibitory order which they procured, seconded by their own watchiul exer- tions, stopped the traffic. Spiritual as well as temporal punishment followed the violation of the order; for not only were the privileges of trade withheld, but the rite of sacrament was denied ofi'enders, though some evaded the regulation by giving the Indian licjuur instead of selling it to him. Under later Fi'ench rer the United States after tl.'e evil had long been prevalent to pass |)rohil>- itory laws, but to enforce them was totally beyond the nation's strength or inclination." After the union of the Northwest and Hudson's Bay companies the sale of liquor ceased almost entirely, and Sir George S^impson in 1842 even prevailed upon the Russians to stop the selling of it to the natives. The American Fur Company were in the habit of obtaining annual jjermits to sell a limited quantity in order successfully to compete with the Hudson's Bay Company across the border. On the Pacific coast the natives obtained copious supplies at an early date from the masters of trading vessels, to whom the demoralization of the people was a matter of indifference so long as tluc^y were enabled to fill their ship with furs. In the Rocky Mountains, and in the dis^juted Oregon Territory prior to 1842, alcohol flowed freely. Tlie entire property of a village would sometimes be swept into the pockets of tlie traders during one debauch. Al different times and places the practice of the Hudson's Bay Company was quite different. In 1833 east of the Rocky Mountains it was the custom to deal it out sparingly but gratuitously, giving the voyager a regale, as they called it, on his arrival and departure, and the same to the Indian hunter when ho brought in furs to sell. Strange to say, the Chipe- wvans would not touch intoxicatinjjf drink, and at one time the Crows would not allow it to be brought into their country. They called it " fools' water." Heads of families were sometimes presented a few gallons of whiskey on Cliristmas. In 1841 wagon-loads of al- ct)]iol in barrels were conveyed openly from the Mis- sissippi River to the Roclcy Mountains, and sold everywhere, notwithstanding the laws then in force '" Tlie agents were not slow to profit by Una law, supplying the r itivcs, aa tlicy did, but making them i)ay enormous prices, while they por'-.eted the pruiits. .SchoolcrujVs Per. Man., 480. ! M8 ATTITUDES OF FUR-TRADERS AND NATIVES. acjainst the traffic. All the f^rcat companies north and south of the Canada line l)ewaile(l the necessity of dealin*,' out alcohol, affinnini^ that thoy would gladly discontinue it hut for their competitors. Later, in 1850 and 1851, the Hudson Bay servants grew lax, for we find complaints by the Russians on the one side, and the American government on the other, of their lack of ijood faith in selling alcohol to the natives.^"* The missionaries of the several denominations who ])layeil so prominent a part in the settlement of ()reg(m and of other sections of the Northwest Coast were, in the main, intelligent, honest, well meaning men, who sought to do the best for themselves, their families, their country, and their God. We should scarcely exj)ect those who were inspired with sufficient enthusiasm to enable them to brave the hardships and dangers of pioneer missi(mary life, to be wholly free from partisanship or fanaticism. We should hardly expect the highest practical wisdom from [)er- sons educated in closets, and from books and teachers regarding all human affairs from a single standpoint. We should hardly expect to find the most evenly balanced minds among votaries of a religion which i-ecognizcs no higher rights than those belonging to its dogmas. Nevertheless I am prepared to do honor to the pioneer missionaries of the Northwest, Catholic and Protestant, for I believe them to have been single-hearted men and actuated by the purest motives, though I m"st be permitted to take excep- 1 r of fi the 18-21 hy b, from croft's of Cor. ilixt. I n 1795 the Hudson Bay Indians Avero enervated and debased by reason ■ deadly drink. Wintirhnthnm's If Int., iv. 21; E. Elliee testifies bcf(jrc ouse of Commons, Ii'i'jif. Ifmlxoii's Bay Co., 326, that from 1811 to juor was used ■\vlierever rivalry existed, that is in territory occupicil I the great companies and on the United States border over which '.her side Indians were enticed for hundreds of miles. See Schoof- Man., 'S'lii-'J; Victor's Uivtr of the West, "ilo-Q; T. Rae, in lloiixi'. lions Kept. Iludmn's Bay Co., 37, 43-4; K. Kin-330; Swan's Northwent Coast, 156. MISSIONARY LABORS. 549 tions to such acts as appear to mo unwise, iinijolitic, or unjufst. In looking back upon their oa ly efForts we can hut rcj^ret that those whose zeal in their <:reat work was never wantinjjf to carry them throUiih any sutllriiii'S demanded, even unto death, and who hole their trials with a courage which claims our admiration, should not have met with the success which their mericorious services seemed to deserve. Several causes united to bring about the result. First of all, impossibilities were attempted. Speaking generally, r'' missionary effort is a failure. Such his- tory pronounces to be its fate. Missionary effort seeks to lift the savage mind from the darkness of its own religion, which God and nature have given it as the best for it, and to fix it on the abstract princi[)les of civilized belief which it cannot comprehend. It seeks to impn^vo the moral and material c»>nditions of the savage wlien its very touch is death. The greatest boon Christianity can confer upon the heathen is to let them alone. They are not ready yd to culti- vate the soil or learn to read, or to change their nature or their religion. These ends the xVlmighty accomplishes in his own good time and way, unfolding their minds as from a germ of his own implanting into the clearer light as they are able to receive it. Then the religious civilizers became too quickly al)- .sorbed in the acquisition and cultivation of landed possessions, which at best were to reduce the inhab- itants to a state of serfdom. It was indeed a hard task thus imposed upon the poor missionary, a task whose innate difficulties he him- self did not comprehend. Manfully he applied himself to the material as well as mental and moral improve- ment of the savage, all unconscious of the poisonous nature of the civilized atmosphere which environed him. As settlers came in, the bad examples of those of his color and faith tended to destroy his influ- ence with the natives. The simple savage reasoned 11 660 ATTITUDES OF FUR-TRADERS AND NATIVES, within himself that if drunkenness, profligacy, and dis- grace were the practical fruits of Christianity and civil- ization, they were better otF without these blessings. As regards the attitude of the fur companies to- ward the missionaries I should say, speaking broadly, that it has been indifltircnt or at least undemonstra- tive. The Hudson's Bay Company's charter required of it the encouragement of missionary effort. The company did not dare to throw impediments in the way of the missionary. And yet any interference o'f white men with their traffic or with the natives was unwelcome. Post commanders usually treated priests and preachers with jioliteness and consideration. If a missionary was stationed near a fort, he was usually installed as cha[)lain of the fort with a salary of fifty pounds per annum and free passage to and from the country.^'' We still read of the attendance of chaplains on the soldiers who go out to fight the natives, which calls to mind Cortes and Pizarro of old, who with their blood- hounds and Indian-killers carried their man of prayer to beseech the God who made the Indians, to give the white marauder the Indians' lands and ioin the in- vaderin the extinction of this wild race whose creation must assuredly have been a mistake. '* Douglas, Private Pnprrs, MS., latser., 82-7, gives some interesting iii- forinatiou respoetuig tlic natives Ijefurc their clenioralization. liieluirdson, Jniiriiul, ii. 5o-(], says that 'the Hudson's liay Company aid tlic clergymen of all the persuasions by free passages, rations, and other advantages, besides granting sdaries to those employed at tlieir fur-jmsts, wlietlier I'mtestanls or Komauratliolies.' See also .l/)-.sr<-ni-Z'fi, ISO; A/ni/in'iiJirif. tW., 305, ;U(t; l/ol- fninlti''s Siniiiiii )• than Fhiion, passim; Ilort'tzkii\-< Caiituld on tho l'nriju\ •_'(!, i;{8; Gn(!i''x IIM. Or., 100; Gniiit's Ocean to Octan, 140-1; Mackenzie's I'oi/., V. ; London Times, July '22, 1S58. CAPTER XVIII. THE NORTHWEST COMPANY. 1783-1821. ClIAnACTER OF THE MONTREAL ASSOCIATES — TlIE FrENCII KeGIME RE- VIEWED — Trade at Micuilimackixac— The Montreal MEntHA.\T.s Penetrate Nortii-westwaru and Forai a Commercial Copartxek- ship — Tin; Disafiectionists form the X. Y. Company— Union of the Two Factions — Internal Reoilationsoftiie Northwest Compan\ — The Grand Portage — Early Voyages from Montreal to Lake Slperior -Feudal Glories of Fort William — Wars between the Northwest Company and the Hudson's Bay Company — The Red River Affair — Fusion of the Two Cojipanies. Of all associations formed at any time or place for the purpose of obtaining the skins of fur-bearing ani- mals, the Northwest Company of Montreal was the most daring, dashing, audacious, and ultimately suc- cessful. Its energ}'- was surpassed only by the apathy of its groat chartered rival, which had been in exist- ence one hundred and thii'teen years. Canada had been twenty years in British possession when it was organized, without assistance, privileges, or govern- ment favors, by a few Scotch Canadians for the better ])roHecutiou of a business with which they were all more or less familiiir. Infusing into their traffic the spirit of enterprise, these asst)cin,tes pushed adventure beyond Lake Su- l)erior to Winnipeg, Saskatchewan, and vVtIiabasca, and finally overspread the then wholly new North- west. It was they who found the river Mackenzie, ' Somctinios called the Canada Comiinny, hocause it was organized in Ciinada, iu coutrtidistiuctiou to the Hudson's Bay Coini)any churtertul in I'lng- .Liud. ( 531 ) .11 m THE NORTH\VEST COMPANY. and followed it to the Frozen Ocean ; it was they who ascended Peace River, crossed the Rocky Mountains, planted posts upon their western slope, and traversed the country to the Pacific; it was they who by their Scotch shrewdness and resistless energy, after absorl)- ing the Canada trade, took poss^'ssion of the North- west Coast, swept Astor from the Columbia, and brought the monster monopoly itself upon its knees. We have seen how under the French rcf/une those forest pedlers, called coiorurs dcs hois, obtained from the merchant, perhaps on credit, the necessary store of goods, and set out in their birch-bark canoes for the great lakes and regions beyond, whence after one or two years of successful traffic they returned richly laden with their annual harvests, followed perhaps l)y crowds of Indians with furs to sell. We have seen how after settling accounts with the merchants those rovers gave themselves up to dissipation which shortly left them with little of their hard- won earnings. This licentiousness excited to jealous action the missionaries, who endeavored to suppress this prosti- tuted traffic by requiring every mon trading with In- dians to procure a license from government, which license prohibited the sale of intoxicating drink to natives, and was to be given only to men of good character. Pure men only were thus to be brought in contact with the tender savajje. The church was to furnish its quota as well as the state. Men made holy by hungei', by filth and fasting, by sleepless vigils, coarse gowns antl bead-tellings, should enter the forest only for good. In their trail there should follow no slimy serpents of civilization, no hissing flames of disease or deadly distillations; and more wonderful than all, honest servants of the government should be found who would deal fairly, humanely, with these rude niid defenceless forest -dwellers. Saturn should sup[»ly them. AFTER THE MISSIOXARIES. m And for a very short time the system worked well. The forests were exorcised of Christian demons; mis- sionaries salted souls without let, and merchants paid their own price for furs. It was heavenly. It was far too fine a state of thinjjs to last. The mission- aries bejifan discussing transubstantiation, whilst the traders fell to cheating, and so the devil was per- mitted to return, fire-water was used again, and civil- ization followed its beaten track. The establishing of military posts on the shores of the great lakes brought upon the border a better in- fluence than that of either missionaries or licenses, by bringing the traffic into more respectable and re- sponsible hands and checking improper policies. The chief officer of a fort at this time was regarded in the light of a commander rather than trader. This, however, did nt)t change the character of the estab- lishment; for call himself what he would, he com- manded that he or others might trade. Following the interruption of trade incident to the conquest of Canada by the British, Scotch merchants with purses as long as their heads located themselves at Montreal and assumed control of the fur-trade formerly enjoyed by the French. By employing sucli French Canadians as were friendly with the natives and attached to forest life, of whom there were tliou- sands, the new masters of the country were enabled in time to conquer the repugnance of the savages to everything English, v/hich aversion had been stren- uously instilled by the French. Indeed many French- men still took part in trade, for by the cession of Canaila in 17G3, they had become British subjects. Beginning in a small and prudent way in 17(!n, with Michilimackinac as their interior station, singly or in pairs, or parties of three or four, accom])anied by French boatmen, guides, and inter[)ret(!rs, the ^[on- treal Scotchmen entered the field, at first venturing scarcely thirty miles away from head -quarters, but quickly gaining confidence with success, until one 554 THE NORTHWEST COMPANY. Thomas Curry with four canoes crossed to Fort Bourbon, and returned the following spring with furs enough to supply his wants for the remainder of his life. James Finlay visited Nipawee, the farthermost French port on the Saskatchewan, and returned with four canoes fully laden with furs. More adventurers now entered the field, and com- petition became animated, not only among themselves but with their brethren of the United States on the south, and the Hudson Bay people on the north. In- deed the latter became more jealous of their fellow- countrymen than ever they had been of the French; and in 1774, aroused to the adoption of protectionary measures by constant encroachments, they established a post on the east bank of Sturgeon Lake, Gradually the nearer country became exhausted and remoter regions were sought. In 1775 Joseph Frobisher penetrated beyond Churchill Biver. A year or two later his brother reached He h. la Crosse, both meeting with success. In 1778 some traders on the Saskatcliewan Biver having surplus stock agreed upon a common venture, filled four canoes and sent them to the Athabasca country in charge of Peter Pond. The goods bought twice as many furs as the boats could carry; and having secured a portion in his winter hut, he returned for them the following spring^ This, however, was exception rather than rule, for througliout the country generally trade was falling into evil ways. Every possible artifice was employed to undermine competitors, and among others liquor was again introduced. The natives in consequence became troublesome, threatened to exterminate the traders, and were in a fair way to succeed when the small-pox broke out among them, committing fearful ravages. Tiaffic was brought to a standstill. The country was well nigh depopulated, for those who escaped the disease fied to the forests. Nor did the fur-hunters perceive very fiattoring prospects before them even ORGANIZATION OF COMPANIES. 555 when the scourge ceased. Satisfactory results could bo secured only by excursions of constantly increasing extent and danger, performed by parties of constantly increasing size and strength. More boats were neces- sary, more goods to fill them, and men to navigate them; forts must be built and Indians awed. Thus matters stood when in the winter of 1783-4 Simon McTavish, Benjamin and Joseph Frobishor, McGillivray, Recheblave, Fraser, and others, including the larger part of the wealthiest and most influential of the merchants of Montreal, together with the more able and successful of the traders in the country, associated themselves under the name of the North- west Company of Montreal, though sometimes called McTavish, Frobisher, and Company, and again McGil- livray, Thain, and Company. The number of shares originally was sixteen, but Peter Pond and Peter Pangman, able and successful traders, not being admitted by the association upon such terms as they deemed their due, left their busi- ness in the country and proceeded to Montreal, in- tending to form a rival company. Pond was at once admitted to the Northwest Company, so his opposition fell to the ground. Pangman won to his scheme two influential men, Mr Gregory and Mr McLeod. Shortly before this the famous Alexander ]\Iac- kenzie had been five years' clerk in the counting-house of Mr Gregory, and was then at Detroit with a small stock of goods intrusted him b}' his former employer. Without his solicitation or knowledge Mackenzie was made partner in the Pangman and Gregory Company, which now took the name of the X. Y. Com[)any,'' })rovided he would make an expedition into the Indian country in the following spring of 1785, which pro- posal was immediately accepted by Mackenzie. * Schoolcraft, Per. Mem., IS."), erroneously states that ^Mackenzie cstab- lislicd thu X. Y. Company. Mackenzie was at first opposed to the Northwest Company, and always dLilikcd McUillivray, who never spoke well of him. 656 THE NORTHWEST COMPANY. A severe struggle now arose between the McTavIsh Company and the Pangman Company, the bitterest hitherto expeiienced in those parts, arising from the attempt of the former to crush the latter. In the feuds which followed, one of Pangman's partners was killed, another lamed, and a clerk shot but not killed, the bullet passing through the powder-horn before entering his body. Hostilities were finally terminated by the admission in July 1787 of the plucky opposi- tion into the ranks of the Northwest Company, whose unequally divided shares were increased for that pur- pose to the number of twenty. The Northwest Company was now prepared to make its influence felt; and the partners purposed to do business. The association included the best men in the country, the very cream of the Canada fur-traders. It was a simple cr- imercial partnership, and none the less strong because not a dollar of capi- tal was required from anybody. Every partner must be a man, a strong man in souie one particular branch of the business. There were no two houses in Montreal of o-reater might or wealth than the Frobishers and Simon McTavish; these two distinct houses while continuing their regular business acted conjointly as agents for the Northwest Company in Montreal. They were to supply the necessary capital for conducting the business, the money actually employed to draw in- terest. They were to obtain supplies from England; have the goods made at Monti'eal accordinyf to the requirements of the trade, and packed and shipjied to the Grand Portage on the north-western side of Lake Superior, where the French Canadians had formerly a rendezvous, and where the Northwest Company now made their head-quarters, bringing there every spring the furs collected, and sending thence for the interior fresh supjdies. There two of the Montreal agents were to proceed every year to attend to the business, for which service the Montreal PARTNERS AND CLERKS. 557 partners were to receive a coiumissioii in addition to dividends on shares. The other proprietors were to spend their time in the Indian country managing the business with the assistance of clerks, and occupied during winter in the fur-tracHng districts, whereby they were called winter- ing partners. They were not obliged to furnish capital, but ability and energy, and even then such was the skill and influence of some of them that they held two shares, with one of which they might at any time re- tire from active service, each naming a clerk as his successor who should have the other. It was an ad- mirable combination of skill and capital, founded not on speculative theory, but on actual experience and practical necessity. To obtain admission into partnership was no easy matter. It could be accomplished only by long and arduous service; money was no object, ability was everything. It was what the candidate could do, not who his grandfather was, that spoke him favorably. Yet those admitted were generally of good family. Clerks succeeded to partnership after a five or seven years' apprenticeship, receiving one hundred jiounds sterling for the term, according to priority and merit. If at the expiration of their apprenticeship there was no immediate vacancy in the partnership, from one to three hundred pounds per annum according to merit was allowed as a salary until they could take their place in the company as partners. During their term ( )f apprenticeship some added to their duties the office of interpreter, receiving therefor extra pay. Shares could be sold only to servants of the company wliose admission as partners was secured by vote; the seller of a share received only its value based upon actual earnings irrespective of probable dividends. This held out to meritorious young men having served a five or seven years' apprenticeship the prospect of some day obtaining shares without the payment of a jjremium ; and if worthy they were seldom disappointed. Each C38 THE NORTHWEST COMPANY. share was entitled to a vote, and a two thirds vote was necessary to the carrying of a measure. Thus by a Hbcral and intelligent policy interest was arousod and emulation sustained, and the affairs of the com- pany were no less wisely ordered than efficiently exe- cuted. Forty thousand pounds was the gross return in 1788, increasing to three times that amount in eleven years. So signal a success was unparalleled in the annals of the fur-trade. In 1790, the term of jiart- nership having expired, the organization underwent a change. Some retired, while ne>y partners were ad- mitted and the shares were increased to forty-six. xV new firm was formed by the retired partners, who built a fort at, the Grand Portage and styled them- selves the X. Y. Company, and for a time there were again two powerful parties in the field; but in 1805, yielding to the dictates of iiiterest, the two factions coalesced. The company's business routine was as follows: No money was directly employed in the purchase of furs from the natives; Indians scarcely ever knew wliat money was. In October of each year the agents at Montreal ordered goods from London, which were, shipped the following spring and reached Canada in the sunnner. These goods consisted of coarse woollen and cotton cloths, calicoes, blankets, silk and cotton handkerchiefs, hats, hose and shoes, thread and twine, brass kettles, cutlery and other hardware, arms and annnunition, and tobacco. Liquors and provisions were obtained in Canada. The next winter the cloths were made into such articles as suited trade with the natives. The stock required was then put into packages of ninety poiinils each, and sent from Montreal the following May, and reached the wilderness market the winter following, two years from the date of ordering. Goods for the posts of the Pacific wxtc yet longer in reaching their destination. BUSINESS ROUTINE. 559 • This is not all. Goods wore frequently kept over a year or two at the interior forts, and the furs did not reach Montreal until the autunni fijllowinur the Avniter of their purchase. Then they were shipped for the most part to London and sold; but pay was not received until the succeeding s[)ring (jr summer, three years at least from the shipment from England of the goods with which they were purchased, and sometimes four or five years. The expenses attending the sale of the goods were about equivalent to their first cost. Allowing the Montreal agents twelve months' credit in London, they were still obliged to carry for two years the outlay for the goods and tlie expenses attending their sale. It is easily seen that when the traffic was £80,000 or £120,000 per annum, the amount required to be carried especially for those times was enormous; so that although profits were large, expenses, risk, and labor were likewise larcje. At first ijoods for the Pacific posts were transported across the mountains in boats and on men's backs, at fearful cost and labc ; later they were shipped round Cape Horn and taken up the Columbia and Fraser rivers.^ ^ There Avcrc employed in 1708 by the Northwest Company .'jO clerks, 1120 canoc-mcn, and .S.i guidea. Of these between Montreal and the ( U'and Port- age, sonio going aa far as L:ic hi Pluie, were employed during the mun'.ner live clerks, ciijlitecn guides, and 330 boatmen. These peoi:)lo were called 'purk- eatcrs,' aloO 'goei's and comers,' as they lived chielly on pork instead of the meat of wild animals, which was almost the oidy food of those in the foi-est, and spent their livej going and coming between Montreal and Fort ^Villialu. A j c>m- pensation for this trip the guides received, besides expenses and privileges to trade on their own account, .§1G0 and their equipment; foremen and steers- men, i;;'Jd; middlemen, .^70, and a shirt, trousers, and blankets. In trading they often made as much as their wages. Tliose who wintered at the upper end of the route received double pay. All other employes were engaged by the year, and for a term of years. A first-claims erpiipment consisted of four- teen pounds of tobacco, two blankets, two shirts, two pairs of trousers, two handkerchiefs, and some trinkets for trading; second-class, ten pounds of tobacco and the other articles; third-class, half the quantity of second-class. To the northmen, as the employes who wintered in the licld were called, were attached more than 700 native women and children, victualled at the company's expense. During the height of their power '2000 voyageurs were employed at un average wage of £-10 per animm. Nuvthwint Com- jiauiffi Niir., 77-87; E. EHicc, in Jfouse of Commons Report Iludxou'a Daij Vompnny, 32.3; SiUlmmis Journal, April IS'.yi; Macl:eitzl(''s Vo>j., iii. xliv. ; Harmon's Journal, 40; Dallanli/iic's l/udson's JJai/, 244; Franchrrv's Nar., 3,38-9; Dunn's Or., \ir--i2; Ron/ Fur lluntir:i,i.2'ni-1; Cox'yfol. J!hrr,i. xi.- xix.j Irviiii/a Anloria, 21; Ora/n Or,, 22-23. 'Employed at uue time not I H ceo THE NORTHWEST COMPANY. When the boundary line between Canada and the United States was determined it was found that the old fort of Grand Portage, situated on the north- western side of Lake Superior, and which from the date of their organization had been the rendezvous of the Northwest Company in that region, stood on United States soil, and the company determined to demolish it and build another forty-five miles to the northward, at the mouth of the Kaministiquia River, flowing into Thunder Bay, still on the shore of Laku Superior. It was in 1805 when the two unfriendly factions of the Montreal merchants, that is to say the X. Y. Company and the Northwest Company, were united that this was done, and the new estab- lishment, built upon a magnificent site, was called Fort William, in honor of William McGillivray, then chief agent of the company at Montreal.* Fort William became, as the Grand Portage had hitherto been, the grand depot for the interior posts, where every summer assembled the wintering parties from the interior and the agents from Montreal, the former to deliver the furs collected and receive new outfits, the latter to bring forward the necessary sup- plies, discuss the affairs of the association, and plan the campaigns of the ensuing season. Let us follow a brigade, as they called their little fleets, from Montreal to Fort William, and then look fewer than 2000 voyageurs.' Twisa' Or., 13; Greenhorn's Or. and Cal., .32"n British N. Am., 247; Lord Selkirk and the Northwext Cnmpanij, in London Quarterlji Review, October 181G. 'Tlio number of voyageurs in the service of the Northwest Company cannot be less than 2000. Their nominal wages are from 30^ to GO/, some as high as 80i or even 100/; the average cannot l)u less than 40^ and is probably higher; so that the sum total of w.ages must be 80,000/ or 90,000/. The gross return of their trade seldom exceeds 150,000/.' Selkirk's Sketch Fur Trade, 39, not tlie liest authority on Northwest Com- pany. Umfreville, Iliidson's Bay, 71-5, asserts that while the Hudson's Bay Company through a false sense of economy endeavored to make boatmen of tlie Indians, and ground their servants down to £15 per annum, the Canada merchants paid theirs £40. Yet the former stigmatized the latter as pedlors, tliieves, and interlopers, because they went where trade was instead of wait- ing for it to come to them. * McGillivray originated the measure which, first in the Northwest Com- pany and later in the Hudson's Bay Company, made every elficient clerk iu due time partner or shareholder. FROM MONTREAL TO FORT WILLIAM. SGI in upon thcni for a moment there; for it was a gay, dashing Hfo, in which creature comforts wore hy no means forgotten, thougli it was the boast of this com- pany, from the managing agent to the humblest voy- ageur, that ho was always ready to accept hardshij)s cheerfully, that upon emergency he could tramj) for- ests, buffet rapids, burrow in snow, carry burdens, bleep hard, and eat dog. The start is made from Lachino, a prettily situated yillagc on the bank of the St Lawrence, eight or nine miles aboye Montreal, and in the month of May, when the riyers and lakes are nearly free from ice. At a cost of about sixty dollars each the requisite numljer of canoes hayc been provided, say thirt}', in which case the squadron is diyided into three brigades, each haying its guide or pilot, whoso busi- ness it is to point the course, take charge of boats and property, attend to all repairs, and act as com- mander or admiral, to whom the voyag :urs stand in the relation of common sailors. In each boat are eight or ten men with their bag- gage, six hundred pounds of biscuit, two hundred pounds of pork, three bushels of pease — these as ship's stores, with sixty-five packages of goods as freight. The equipment of the canoe consists of two oilcloths M'ith which to coyer the goods; a sail and sailing tackle; an axe, a towing-line, a kettle for cooking purposes; a sponge for bailing, and some gum, bark, and watape for repairs. To the inexperienced ob- server of these frail craft, thus crowded with men and heaped with goods three or four tons in each, until the gunwale is within six inches of the water, it seems that destruction is inevitable, especially when winds and swift currents are considered. But so experienced and expert are these Canadian boatmen that loss of life and property is comparatively rare, although acci- dents are frequent. Two picked men, a foreman and a steersman, are placed, the one in the bow and the other in the stern of every canoe; those who simply Hist. N. W. Coast, Vol. I. 3G I 662 THK NORTHWEST COMrANY. ply tho paddlo arc oallod middlt'inon. A sail is hoisted wlu'Dovcr tiio wind is f'uvorahlt;. Abovu Fort Williaiii and tho Grand Portacjo the boats aro about lialf the sizo, and aro nianaj^od by four, fivo, or six nion. Thoy carry about thirty-fivo i)acka<^os, twonty-tlireo of whi(.'li aro for purposes of trade, and the remainder luiLj.i^ai^e and stores. A ])rayer and a vow to Saint Anne, a few confessions and cheap votive offerings, a farewell carouse to com- rade and f-'weetheart, and the vovajjfcur is readv. Then adieu for a time to civilizati(jn and dissipation, adieu to cliurch-bells and tutelar saint; for the white mis- tress uaw must give }»lace to tlie brown, the dusty cobwebbed vault of Saint Anne to the open ar-c of God's tenn)le, where the stars shall kee[) vigil amidst the companionship of wild men and wild beasts. ]Cmbarking, soon the rapids of Saint Anno are reached, when part or the whole of the cargo must be unladen. These ])ortages, from porter, to carry, though frequent and fatiguing, are not annoying, because taken as a matter of course. The vc^yageurs at these places vie with each other in displays of strength and celerity, and would as soon think of ctmiplaining because the sun heated them, or the water made them wet, or rum drunk. Tho advantage of ninety-pound packages, from long exjierience proved the most convenient weight, is now seen. The usual load for one man is two packages, but if the way be exceedingly rugged one suffices, though tho ambitious boatman will sometimes cany three. Thi.se are thrown upon the back and there supported in slings suspended from the head. The cargoes arc ilius carried to some point above the fall or i-apid, to wdiicli the canoes are either towed hj a str'ong line or carried on men's shoulders. The car- rying-i)lace passed, the boats are again loaded and the party proceeds. So methodical and expert have these boatmen become by practice, that a portage is made iii an incredibly short time, twelve or twenty of them ALOXf; THE LIQUID HIGHWAY. 5^3 l»L'injjf fr(>quciitly passed in a sitijjjli! day. Tlio loiijjfth of the poi'tuj^fs varies jjfreatly, exteiuliiii^ from sixty yards to six miles, or even twiee or thrice that lacid lakes, and wild untenanted shores come and go as in panorama. Hunters are sent out and bring in fresh meat; a liglit canoe, paddled by twelve picked men gt)rge(Hisly ar- rayed and striking in exact time, shoots past, carrying a director clothed in rich furs and surrounded by sovereign state for the grand council to be presently held at Fort William. Portage des Chats is passed; likewise Decliargc ^'The tract of a transport occupies an extent from three to four thou- sand miles, through upwai'd.s of sixty large lakes and numerous rivtM's, and the means of transport are slight bark canoes. It must also he ohsei'ved that those waters are intercepted hy more than two hundred rapids, along which the articles of merchandise are chiefly carried on men's hacks, and over ono hundred and thirty carrying-places from twenty-live paci's to thirteen miles in length where the canoes and cargoes proceed by the same toilsome u)>d perilous operation. ' Macktiaie's Voy., 410, note. 5fl4 THE XORTHWEST COMrANY, ties Sables, and ]\rouiitaiii Portage, and Lac Coulongc, and lifty other places with old-fiishioned names, sniaek- ing of the all-absorbing traffic of the times. Then, across the Nipissing Lake, past Huron, and to the upper end of Superior, where at Thunder Bay the centre round which the fur-hunting universe revolves is reached." Rightly to picture in our minds such an establish- ment as Fort William in the flush fur times, we must l)laco the feudal beside the original and mark the eftect of subservinix civilization to connnerce. As in the classical abnormities of California gold -seeking there were many phases of human nature never be- fore displaved, nianv scenes in social statics never again to be dramatized, so here we may see the blend- ing of savagism and civilization, a mercantile mixture of French volatility and keen-edged Scotch cunning, such as the world will never witness again. There are no more unguarded Californian valleys, gilt-edged with a gold -embosomed sierra; there are no more hyperborean planet-j^arks filled with various animals, l)easts, birds, and fishes, and hunted only l)y simple- minded savages; no more of these vast unappro- priated natural ti'easures in which ci\ ilized man may make display of his voracity. Within the palisades of Fort William, in the centre of the enclosure, stood the great coi-poration's great house which was both council-chand)cr and caravansary. In it were the rooms of officers, the spacious dining hall where staid revels were induhjfed in ; below was the ani[ile kitchen, stocked from Montreal. Surrounding the council-house, and still within the pickets, were subordinate tenements, eating, sleeping, and working houses, warerooms, and stores. Outside the stockade during the summer fortnight of business festivity were two encam[)ments, ccju- " For less than one fiftieth the cost by canoe transpoi'tation from Montreal, goud.s uru iiuw luiiduil at Fort Williuin iu tihips Uiruut fruui JOugluud, FORT WILIIAM. MS sisting of between three and four hundred men each, the one on the east side of the fort beini; the man- [/('}( )'s ihi lard, pork-eaters, comers and goers between Montreal and Fort William, and those on the west side the hii'crnanfs, or winterers in the field. Behind the fort were camped such Indians as were drawn thither by curiosity, love of liquor, or love of finery and display. The four groups afforded many contrasts. Prob- ably of them all, the least thoughtful, the least con- cerned about the here or hereafter, as indeed they were the happiest, the noisiest, and the greasiest, was the pork-eating company. They had not the reflective mclancholy-mindedness of the Indian, altliough they vied with him in filth and freedom. Next to the chiefs and their immediate followers who inhabited the fortress, and made pretensions to refinement anil even luxury, were the winterers, who were indeed the chivalry of the company. As a class they were entitled to the credit of some degree of intellectual rasping in addition to their s^dvan accomplishments. Across the liver from the fort was a small settlement of worn-out voyageurs, their little log-houses filled with native wives and children, who cultivated small patches of corn and potatoes, which with a few fisli and perhaps a tobacco pension from high quarters, sufficed to secure wliat kingdoms could not buy, con- tent. A busv bn'.zing characterized the day both within and without the tort. There were multitudes of ac- counts tit he settled, of old scores to be wiped out and newobhgatinns to be assumed. Expired engagements were renewed, and promotions made. Those who de- sired miglit send tlieir earnings to ^[ontreal or London l)v purchasing the conq)any's draft on those places. Always there was more or less barteiing going on between employes, accompanied by boistei-ous niiilli or sullen cursings, as the case miglit l)e. (jlames of chance and skill were indulL''ed in, Ijidians and Frencli- 56C THE NORTHWEST COMPANY. men alike entering into them with the keenest zest. Tims the gathering bore to some extent the a[)pear- ance of a ])lcasure Jii^rty no less than a business meet- ing. While the bizarre brotherhood of Canadians, Indians, and half-breeds without the fort were enga, en r<)i/(((j<', or at the rendezvous, of luxury and wealtli In the city they kept open house, and entertained like ^sni THE MONTREAL PARTNERS. 507 lords, and in the field, though they should sleep upon the ground, they slept soundly, and were attended like nionarchs. Thoui;h ranking no hiri reasons of their skiimings; instead, stories were t(»ld of youth- ful frolics in the dear old native land, and these com- pared with the life-defendings of pathless wastes, which often swelled in the recital to a diapason of dangers. And as the generous wine wont round and brim- ming bumpers were drank to loyal toasts, and I'ising impulse broke forth in highland song and chorus, makinu' the rafters of Fort William ring with hi-di hilarity, round the outskirts of this knightly wassail- 568 THE NORTHWEST COMPANY. in<]f were hoard the roarinofs of French and Indian bae- chanals, whicli were indeed a credit to lordly example. Such was Fort William, and such the magnificent Northwesters in the days of their popular renown. Slowly, slowly awoke the monster monopoly, as by their charter and self- affection they would wisli to be, well nigh dormant in their hyperborean dealings these hundred years and more, to a realization of their situation. These Montreal Scotchmen, with their constantly increasing wealth and independence, with their superior intelligence, enterprise, aiu^ pluck, becoming formidable. ' lat should be done? Inere was but one answer an Englishman could make to such a question: they must be driven out. Although they were planting themselves firmly enough in all tlie wide north-west, scaling the stony barrier which had so long obstructed the fur-hunter's path to the Pacific; and although the fiercer beat upon them the storms of rivalship the deeper and more firmly did they root themselves to the soil, yet they must be driven out. For every post they planted, another should be built beside it; for every inducement offered the natives to trade, double should be given; so the council ordered, and so the servants did. Now no hileasure. Heal- ing of it, McDonnell sent Pritchard an oi'der de- manding the surrender of the peniican, whicli order Pritchard refusing to obey, McDonnell seized the jjemioaTi and carried it off l)y force. The servants of tlie Northwest Company tlcw to arms, coming in from (juite a distance to recover their winter's provendei-, and but for the opportune arrival of one of tlie Northwest partners blood would tlion have flowed. Half of the pemican being immediately restored, the remainder was allowed to remain under protest. During the severities of winter part of the colonists liad joined the Northwest Company, but repudi- ated their obligation in the spring. The exasperated Northwesters, however, appeared among them, burned houses, killed one Warren, took Governor McDonnell prisoner, and ordered all settlers to r< ^ from the river. Thus it was, when in October the main body of colonists arrived from Scotland, starvation and the sutFerings incident to a shelterless winter in that i/egion stared them in the face. But Selkirk proved equal to the emergency. If M'ar was the cry, war it should be. Strengthening himself l)y a new purchase of shares in the Hudson's Ba}^ Company,^" he assumed active management of affairs, opened a general store at Fort Douglas where colonists were supplied on credit, won to liis service by promises of higher positions and pay several clerks of the Northwest Company discontented by reason of non-promotion, of which there were always some, and displayed on every side a determination to adopt extreme retaliatory measures. Fortunatcdy securing for his manager Colin Robert- '" ' For this purpose it is said, and wo believe truly, his lordship purchased at a price far licyond its value, about one third part of the stock of the Hud- son's Bay Comi)any, the whole of wliich is only jtlOOjOOO.' Loudon Quaricrly lievkw, October ISIG. WAR IN EARNEST. fiT: son, one of the Northwest Company's most shrewd and enterprising men, with him Selkirk obtained all the Canadians he recjuired, and throwing aside the traditional caution of the Hudson's Bay Company met his rivals, in the person of Mr Robertson, with their own daring policy. Trade with the natives was now opened; and know- ing .all the weak points of his late masters, Jtobertson carried the war into the enemy's stronghold, which was then the Athabasca country. Thither he made an expedition which proved eminently successful. ^lT Clarke, late partner with Astor in the PacHic Fur Con)[)any, was engaged and sent there. I^y paying higher prices for furs, the nearest natives were seduced from their late allegiance, and the loyalty even of the more distant was made to waver. The enemy visibly winced beneath these blows. Selkirk was jubilant. ! lis triumph, however, was of short duration. As wx-ll might he attempt to stop the eruptions of Mount iT:Ctna with his hat, as thus to quench the audacious fire of his opponents. Rousing themselves to action with their rising wrath, the Nortliwest Company prepared for the camjiaign of 1815 by raising the wages of their men, promoting clerks to proprietors, and doubling the usual quantity of goods sent to the interior. Co^te qiiil coilte, buy furs, was the order on both sides. It suenis a little strange to hear of actual war be- tween commercial companies of the same nationality on American soil, of attacks and repulses, of capturing forts, and )\olding business competitors as prisoneis; yet truth compels the utterance, for througliout this then practically limitless region arms were the only argument and brute foice was the ultimate appeal. Early in 181G the war began in earnest, and in tlie battles which followed, tlic Hudson's Bay Company and the colonists were the greater sufferers. Tlirue hundred half-breeds, armed, painted, and plumed, were mounted by the Northwest party and sent forth to Hist. N. W. Coast, Vol. I. 37 >78 THE NORTHWEST COMPANY. muraud in good old feudal fashion. First the settlc- iiicnt was destroyed and the colonists dispersed, some proceeding to Norway House and otliers. to different l)arts, though their fort on Red River yet remained. \t Athabasca Mr Clarke was besieged; and after losing seventeen men by starvation he capitulated. At Slave Lake the Hudson's Bay Company were more successful, though they elsewhere lost thirteen more by famine in June. Two of tlic Northwest Com])any's forts, with all their properties, were taken, Mr Cameron, proprietor, made })risoner, and the i'or- tresses burned. The keeper of the Northwest Com- pany's station on Qu'appellc River, who had been thr .'atoned with annihilation by the Hudson Ray people should he attem[)t to pass downward, growing anxious for the arrival of a party expected from the nortlnvard, d holdncsis i'urried all opposition. Selkirk himself" started to (piell the disturbance, but i)aused at Fort William, preferring discretion to valor. Proclamations were issued by the g( )vernor-general of Canada threatening [)eace-breakers ^viththe severest punishment, which fulminations were treated by the spirited fur-hunters on both sides with sovereign contempt. Connnissioners were then ap- pointed to proceed forthwith to the scene f»f action to investigate outraijjes and seize oifenders; but such a misf:;ion sniaeked of danger, and was easily postjtoned on account of the lateness of the season, thereby per- mitting the fur-hunters to fight through the winter of 18f()-f7 U'lUiolested by the busy, buzzing law. ^[eanwhile the war continued with unabated viii'or. IsVaw werj killed and forts cajttured on both siiles, the monopolists being as usual the greater sufferers. "The statijnients rcsiipctiiij.' tlio iifFray aro very conflicting. As ti)M by fliftcTunt iK'i'sons it can liaidiy l)o rccogiil/.t-il as tlio Kaiiiu stiii'y. Sonio .say t!i:it Siiiiplo was out in .search of thi.s liand; otht'i's tliat tlio Xorthwi'sti'tsj \voie .•(tjout to attack the furt. Kacli s-icUi accnscn the otiicr of liaving liivil the lir.st shot. ]'>y a cai'cful comiiaiison of all tlio authorities, my text cijii- vcy.s the faet.s as nearly as I iim alile to arrive at them. 'J'hat (Joveinor Seniplo was an iimiiihlo, nioilest, hninanenum, following' liis line of duty, tiieio cm 1)0 no ([«estionche opens the conference hy a]ijilyin,L; insultinj,' langu.i.u'e to tlie ^'o\ enioi'. I!(ji-s, llid U'lVi !• Si till hinif, iii., is obviously so biassed in tav(n'of the Hudson's ]>;iy Company that I lind myself un^dih? to follow him Mith any decree of conlidence. In desciibin:,' ihe attack lie goes fnrthi'i" even tlwin Selkirk hinisi'lf, and asxcrls thiit an arnu'd bund of (i,'> apin'oin'hed the foit to at- tjak it, when (iovernor Semple appeared at the liead of "JT Uien. iind .hat A\ Idle he was in consultation with his i)arty 'tlie Indians iind haU'ln 'ciLs diviiled themselves into t\,o bodies and instantly coumienced liriii;; from tlio shelter ullorded by u few willows; tirst ii shot or two and then a, nierciles.s Volley.' The Northwest Company in their otiieial version of the aliair, Sar- r'llirc of ( )rfiirri iin'.i, 'A, assert that in view of the fact, not even denied by the opposite part}', that they marched out and followed the Indians, and lircd lii'st upon thwu, 110 doobt can iciiiuin wiio were the uggrcasors. I i \ THE NORTHWEST COMPAXY. Trade was completely ruined. In their revengeful competition the natives were paid more for furs than their value at Montreal, while their expenses wero wonderfully increased. And when at last, tired of all this, Selkirk was permitted to bring his hundred sol diers up from Fort William and call back his frightened colonists, the charges and arrests which followed were little preferable to war." ^'' Ross Cox, Adv., ii. 225-42, gives the best aocount of any one there cluiiii'^ hostilities. Lord Selkirk's Sketch of the Britiah Fur Trade in. Xorfh Amirirn, publishuil in 181G, as well as the Statement J'especfhiij the Karl of SelL'ii//< SeftleniHiit upon the lied River, London 1817, are not so much historical and descriptive accounts, but rather bills of indictment against the North«ofst Company. They bear no comparison with Sir Alexander Mackenzie, IIM u-ii of the Fur Trade, in points of intelligent observation and fairness. In the Narrnt'irc of the Orcurreiiee.i in the Indian. C'ountriex of A merica, 50-5, publislu'd by tlie Northwest Company in 1817, we have tlie other side of the story, wliii li must be accepted with the sarr.e degrees of allowance. W^hen men became so crazed with anger as to resort to killing, little reliance was to be placed on (jaths and asseverations. From the minutes of a meeting of a council of Rupert Land held at Red River, 1845, Gray, Hist. Or., G3, quotes eight rules re.Lju- latmg the rights jf settlers. See also DouijUui' Private Papers, ^MS., 1st serii m, 79-80. In tlie Howe of /. Or., MS., lOi), gives a general sketch ( . Reil River aliiiir.s. See also Maedorndd's Ii. C, 247; Graifn Iltxt. Or., 21-0, Gl-0. Du 'ing the affray and for years thereafter those belonging to tiie Hudson's Ray Company were known as the ' IJIues,' Avhile the Northwesters were designated as the ' (irays,' from the officers iilFecting a uniform of those colors respectively. Andir^nn'ti Xorthtvext ('oant, MS., 53. The advanta;,'es and disadvantages of the Red River establishment over similar settlements are given at length by Sir James Oouglas in his Private Pa/ier.i, M.S.. l.st series, 7!*-80; Iiail(i>ilipie\ Und'ton'.i IJat/, 94-o; Hinds' lied River Ex., i. 172-5; Me inconvenient, were taken to Canada or England for trial; but money and influence seldom failed to hood- wink justice. Four years' fighting in courts followed criminations, prosecutions, and suits over titles, leaving matters exactly where they were originally. The atlventmcrs into Hudson Ray still held Rupert Land, and the Xorthwest Company still disputed their right to ex- clusive trade, anit''tlKT at vvory traitiiitr-in;.st ; eaili Jiarty siiUiiif,' to prcvoiit the otlii'i- tiom fiigaj;iii;^ tlio airt-ctioiii of the natives, and iiioiiopoIi/.iii;L,' the trade, ^^lleue\('^ a tseltleiiieut is iiiade l>y the one, tliuuilier iniiucdiutely follows, without cousideriiijj the eligibility of UXION OF THE COMPAXIES. S83 it then been concluded, would have saved great loss of life and property, besides a general • demoralization of the trade. Both companies possessed such international rights as they had the strength to maintain. The Hudson's Bay Company might plead their charter, but as they had failed to fulfil its conditions their better claim was prior possession. Tliis likewise was the title of the Xorthwest Company to the territory claimed by them, derived, through the conquest of 1759, from the French discoverers and colonizers of the country. At one time negotiations were entered upon for t]ie sale of the Hudson's Bay Company to the Northwe^st Company. In 1804 Edward Ellice, then a partner in the Northwest Company, offered Sir Richard Xeave, governor of the Hudson's Bay Company, £103,000 for the whole concern, that being the capital stock of the Hudson's Bay Company at that time. ]^ut part of the stock being the property of minors, the bar- gain was not consummated.^* In June 1819 the question of rivalries .and existing disputes between the Northwest and Hudson's Bay Companies was brought before the British parliament. Later by interposition of the ministry, a com[)romisu was effected and the two companies merged into one. In conjunction with this coalition an act for regulating the fur- trade and establishing a criminal and civil jurisdiction in certain parts of North America was passed by parliament the 2d of July 1821, whidi consummated the union. The capital stock of the united association was divided equally Ijetween iha late members of tlic two companies, and more than half of the oHic.'ers were secured by the former pai't- ners of the Northwest Company. Upon the ha})py consunnnation of these arrangements a grant was made by the sovereign of Great Britian to tlie repre- the place; for it may injure its opponent though it cannot huncfit itself, vliich is tiic lir.st iilijcct of all otliiT coniinerciiil bodies, but the aecoinl of the fm--tra(lei'rt.' Fraiikrni'K Xar., i. "JOO. ^■"Jluaiic o/ Cuinmoitis liipt, Jluddon'n Uuij Company, 34-1. 584 THE NORTHWEST COMPANY. sentatives of both companies, of exclusive trade for twenty-one years. The name of Hudson's Bay Com- pany was retained in preference to the other by reason of its age, respectability, and charter. la '* Simpson, L'ife, 40, says the Northwest Company's resources were well nigh exhtmsted by the huge expenses, particularly for legal processes. But if this were true, how could they bring the proud old Hudson's Biiy Company to such humiliating terms. See also Ureei>how''s Or. mid t'aL, 'A1\A). No less were the hearts of the Hudson's Bay Company turned toward recon- ciliation by reason of loss of dividends. Says one: 'The interests of tlie Huilson's Bay Company suffered so much that between 1800 and 18J1 their dividends were for the first eight years reduced to four per cent., during tiic next six years they could pay no dividend at all, and for the remaining eight years tliey could only pay four per cent.' liritixh N. Am., 249, note. Al- though tliroughout its whole career the Northwest Company labored under disadvantages, assuming risks and dangers wliich were declined by the Hudson's Biiy Company, and although they piid tlieir servants muuli more liberally, and were under many heavy expenses which their rival was not, and required a much longer time in which to turn their capital, yet l>y reason of superior energy the Northwest Company made tlieir business more jirolita- blc than the older and slower company. Sir CJcorge Simpson, in J/otim- Com- nioim li^port lluilmn\ Joi.iet — La Salle AND Hknnepin — Grosseliez AND ILvDissoN — La IIontan— Tiik (Storv 01' Joseph la France — Verendrye, the FcR-iUNTEii, Proi-oses to Fit Ol't an Expedition — Chakacter of Verendrye— (tovern(ii;-(;eneral IJEArilARNAIS IlE(iARI)S THE PlAN FaYORAHLV — VeRENDRVE'.S COPART- NERY and Rocte — Emrarkation — Erection of Forts— Massacre at Lac des Bois of Yoino Verendi:.ye, Pere Axneau. and Twenty Men — Discovery of the Rocky Mountains — Verendkye's Return and Death— Infamois Conduct of Canadian Officials — Adven- tures OF MoNCACiiT Ape — Carver's Speculations — Hearne's Jour- ney — Pike's Expeditions — Long's Explorations. The term North-west was orginally applied by Spanish, French, and Enghah colonists to the undo- lined regions of North America in the direction indi- cated. Later, both the United States and Canada had each within prescribed limits their North-west Territory, as the former had its South-western Terri- tory east of the Rocky Mountains. At the close of the revolution in 1783 the country south of lakes Huron, Michigan, and Superior, now comprising the states of Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, and Wis- consin, was organized as the North-western Territory. Fifty years ago Canada called all that jtortion of her domain west of Lake Superior and Hudson J^ay, except such portion as belonged to the liudson'ss Bay Company, the North-west Territories.^ As the Hud» ' 'By tlic North-west Territories, is geiK^rally Huik'rstooil all tli.it jiortion of country exteiulini,' from tlie heail of Lake Superior, wcstwai'il to the west- ern uhures of America, uortliward to the Frozen Oeeuii, and north -westwanl to (OUS) 686 EARLIEST OVERLAND EXPLORATIONS. son's Bay Company gradually absorbed its lesser rivals, and from the borders of its original Rupert Land spread its dominion over all unoccupied country, naturally such territory took its name; but when in 1870 the Hudson Bay Territory passeil into the [)0s- session of the Dominion of Canada, the term of Xortli- west Territories was again applied to this region, which to-day comprises all British North America except the provinces of Ontario, Quebec, Nova Sco- tia, New Brunswick, Newfoundland, Prince Edward Island, ]\Ianitoba, and British Columbia. It includes the surfaces drained by streams flowing into Hudson strait and bay, the Arctic Ocean, and Lake Winnipeg. The name Northwest Coast was given by early voyagers to that part of the Paciiic seaboard nortli of California. For the purposes of this volume I extend this designation from the sea-shore north of the fort}^- second parallel back to the Rocky Moun- tains, excepting only Alaska. It will be noticed that none of this domain has ever come within the appel- lation proper of the North-west Territories as it was applied to portions of their possessions east of the liocky Mountains, both by Canada and the United States; nor would it make any difference in this con- nection if it had. Between the years of 1776 and 1790, the white population of the United States over- spread her south-western territory, and from 1795 to 1804 her north-western. To the French in the north, as to the Spaniards in the south, are due the first attempts to traverse the continent from east to west. While yet in timid bands ])utch and English fur-hunters were percolat- ing through the chief Atlantic range into the valley the limits of the territory grantelorers that beyond the sources of the lliviere des Mis- sourir, there was another large stream which flowed 588 EARUEST OVERLAND EXPLORATIONS. westward. This the missionary was suro found its way to tlic South Sea, and he said God helping him he would find and follow that river. In his surmise ^Marquette was right ; but death directed his ex}jloia- tions elsewhere before he was permitted to prove his theory. Since he was a boy thoughts of a route from the Laurentian gulf to the Pacific Ocean had filled the mind of La Salle. His factory near Montreal was called La Chine, some said in derision, because the proinic- tor fiincied it one step on the way to China. Hence v/lien M. Juliet returned to Quebec, La Salle did not hesitate to express the belief that by ascending this river Mississippi instead of descending it, some means might be found of reaching the western ocean. It is not strange, therefore, that before undertaking his memorable journey to the gulf of Mexico La Salle should despatch Pere Hennepin to tracj the Illinois to the Mississippi, and to ascend the latver as high as possible. This the famous Recollet accomplished in 1G80, reaching the Sault St Antoine.^ To the westward of Hudson Bay in 1G82 we find Grosseliez and Radisson discovering the rivers Nelson and Churchill. Thus laboring side by side, piety and avarice slowly pushed back the curtain so long obscuring the setting sun. The temptation to romance about the unknown regions was not always withstoocl The Baron La Hontan appears to have been the Munchausen of the day. It is as impossible, however, to write unadul- terated falsehood as unadulterated truth; hence wc; may find shadows of history in the baron's mythology. In the account of his pretended journey up the '^ Father Ilcnnepin's piety was greater than his veracity. Notwathstandiii;,' liis vanity and love of exaggeration, hia Description dehtLouiKiaw, Paris, KW-S, contains niucli correct information, but his Noiintk dcroucerte U'uii tnn es pluralized, or if we imagine a distant reference to the pueblo- towns the exaggeration is loss gross. TIIK WESTWARD WAY OF FRKXC'IIMKN. 801 Ah (>arly as 1708, half a cvntAiry l)t.'totv Franco hail lost licr vast Aiiicricaii douiaiii, wliicli towartl tlio noi'tli-west was then of hniitless oi- unlcnown extent, attention was (Urecteil toward exploiations westward across the Rocky ^lountains. Some knowledjL^'o of this had been brought to the merchants of Montreal by their ajjents trathni' in that direction, wiiicli in- formation liad been oriijinally obtained from the natives. It was about tliis time that M. Jeremie, first Houtenant and afterward t^overnor of Fort Bour- bon, or as the English called it Fort Factory, at the mouth of Hayes River, and others made excursions westward. Among the more forward of tlio <'lergy to denounce the pretended claims of J^a llontan to a journey u[) ]jong River was a learned priest named l^abe, who on the loth of March 17 IG wrote from Versailles to l)e risle, geographer to the Academy of Science in Paris: "They tell me that among the Scioux of the !Mississip})i there are always Frenchmen trading; that the course of the ]Mississi})[)i is from north to west, and from west to south; that it is known that toward the source there is in the high land a river that leads to the Western Ocean. . .For the last two years I tor- mented exceedingly the governor-general, M. Randot, and M. Duche to endeavor to discover this ocean. If I succeed as I hope we shall have tidings before three. 3'ears, and I shall have the pleasure and the consolation of having rendered a good service to geog- raphy, to religion, and to the state." lKil)e's cU'orts were not wholly fruitless, for in 17 17, with a view of extending westward French explorations, lu; succeeded in having reestablished by Robertel de Laudue the post erected by Du Luth in 1G78 at the head of Lake Superior. When Crozat in 1712 obtained from the French king the monopoly o{' Louisiana for lifteen years, he looked forward not only to the discovery of mines but to a lucrative trade with Mexico, in both of which EARLIEST OVERLAXD EXPLORATIONS. he was disappointed. Sieiir Juchereau, whom Crozat sent overland to Mexico as his commercial agent, ou his arrival at the city of Mexico was seized and im- prisoned by the viceroy; and although he was subso- (|uently released, and kindly treated, and besought to renounce his allegiance to his country and become a Spaniard, and was given the fair Maria, daughter of Pedro de Velasco, commander of Fort Jean, to wife, with one thousand piastres as a wedding present, yet on taking a reluctant and affectionate leave the vice- roy's last words were: "I can allow no trade between Lousiana and Mexico."^ So that in this direction the westward way of the Frenchman was blocked. To Arthur Dobbs one Joseph la France, a half- breed, related a story, told him at Fort Factory by an old Home Indian, who about 172G went as ho affirmed at tlie head of thirty warriors "to make wai- against the Attimospiquais, Tete Plat, or Plascotez de Chiens, a nation living northward on the Western Ocean of America." Taking with them t!ieir families, they liunted and fished for two winters, and the fol- lowing sunnner "came to the sea-side on the Western Coast," where were "a great many large black fish s[)outing uj) water in the sea." Constructing some canoes, tliey left their families on a little island easily reached on foot when tlie tide was out, and coasted thereabout tlireo montlis in search of their enemies, the Flatheads, passing meanwhile a strait where the sea-coast lay almost east and west. Upon the bank of a river they found a large ti)wn of their enemies, which with whoop and wild halloo thev attacked, routin?' the inhabitants. But when the villajrers saw how fow were their assailants they returned and killed fifteen, the remainder being gbvd to escape with their lives. Of these, while attempting to return, all died save this one old man. Thus we see how reports reach eastern settlers, of the country beyond the mountains. •'('fiiirkmij:'.' Xuiivelle France, iv. 1"0; North Am. /{eciew, January I;).'!!*, p. 105-0. Vi:REXDRYE'.:; EFFORTS. 503 But not until 1731 was any signal effort made hy Europeans to roach the Pacific overland from Now Franco. In that year Pierre Gauthier do Varonnos, siour do la Yerondrye, who for many years ])ast had Iiold commercial intercourse with the western al)oriiit of it lonuf, and talked <»f it long. a?)d fi'om him his brother and his two sons Iiad caught tho insjjiration. Though a fur-trader in the wilderness of America, ho was of j>:ontlo blood aud much elevation of character. Tern- perate in f )riuiug [>lans, he was bold in their execution ; of broad views, pent'trating judgment, and intrepid eni'rgy, it iT(|uii'e.l no small o'tstaclo to turn h!ni tVoni his pur|)osc'. ^Vnd yet his scbcmes wore not wholly free from meivonary motives, Eow we're in tho.^o davs, or ai"e e\cn now. He was not a I'oli'nonist, and theri'foi'i- ma I'' no pretensions to pious zeal; he was a dt;aler in skin-;, and if sc>ized by intelligent as|»iiMtions sullieimt to incline him to I'orvgo a ))orti'!!i n\' his pi" ) the lustre that such an exi)edition, if successful, would j^ive his administration, and as Verendrye he^ixcd from him nothing, he felt in duty bound to give hiiu all he asked. Verendrye 's purpose was to form a trading copart- ner}' with certain ]\[ontreal mei'chants wlio should furiilsh funds with which to procure goods fV-r hai tir with the natives and equip the expedition. To avoid the territory of the Sioux he would ascend the Assini- boine and Saskatchewan rivers instead of the Mis- souri, which otherwise would offer su[>erior attracti»)iis; thence he would take any stream he should find flow- ing westward and follow it to the Pacilic. It was a i»leasing plan to one who knew nothing of what he was undertaking. Were such a stream there, and slumM he fijid it: were there no mountains to cr'oss, no cold to endure, no mouths to i\'Aid, no hostile tribes to encounter, he might estimate the chances of success more accurately. And vet Veri'ii- dr\e was experienced in forest affairs, and thoroughly com|)etent to accomplish any possibility. Having fo)'m(}d his ))artnerships and cquij)ped his ex[)edition, with a small fle(,;t of canoes, in company with a missionary, Pere jMessawr, ho embarked for Lake SuDerior. ()r well to observe. Yet this earnest Frenchman was wise and nohle accordini^ to his day. It is very easy for us, knowing the beyond, to point the proper way, saying that to cx}»lore, one should di'op fort-building and tra(hng, and with a company of tough reliable men ])ress rapidly forward to the end, and then return. Whatever risk of life miijfht have attended such a movement, the expense v/ould have been less. ]>ut all was as a wall of darkness to this explorer, one ste[) into which might plunge him to the foot of a precipice. As it was,Verondryo spent all his fortune and f )rty thousand livres besides. Then he returned to (Quebec an«^ asked govei'innent aid, which was denied him. The trutli is, tliere were those wlio wi.slu d to continue his (>\plorations, availing themselves of liis s[)ent foi'- tune and twelve years of efi'ort without return, hoping to reap tlie reward rightly his due. This is the (sld story in ])ioneering, whether in art, industry, lett<'rs, or (hscovery. Frowns are ])lentiful enough among disappointed associates. Maurepas circulated reports unl'avoraMe to Vcrendjye's character, and the latter Avas finally imhiced to remit his commissi(»n to Noyelle, who pur- posed to continue the exploration in bis own namo. As a cheap rewai'd i'." AV-ren- '(Jraiivillo Stiiiiit, in .Mniiiniiii, ll'ml. S ;lu' Mi-.-iinii i, « liirli In' liiiuhi'd jusi In !iiv>' vlicic siiicu waa IjiiilL i'lUt Bcitliulil. Tliciicc they a3C(.'UilLi.l the Mi.suini w RESULTS OF VERE\DRYE-S EFFORTS. 597 dryo's son and brotlior claimed the right, and very justly, to continue the discovery; but men lii^h in olKce now stepped forward and in the name »il' l)rog- ress prepared to tieece the state. Forming an asso- ciation composed of Joncpiiere the new governor, Breard the comptroller of marine. Captain Lamanpie de Marin, Lc Gardeur de St ]-*ierre, and otiiers, the Intendant Bigot placed himself at the head of it, and setting all other claims aside prepared to avail him- self of A\'rendrye's efforts. The scheme was for Marin to ascend the ^lissouri to its source, cross the bari'iers which so friglitfully presented themselves to the former explorers, and take! the tirst stream which should present itself, and lollow it to the Pacific. St Pierre was to set out from Fort de la Heine, cross the mountains farther to the north, and join Marin at a given latitude on the shoic of the Pacific. This project was entirely feasibli', being [)racticall3^ what both Mackenzie and Lewis and Clarke, though at different dates, and without acting conjointly, successfully accomplished later. Put mercenary motives interfered and cruslied what otherwise might have })roduced the gi-andest results. Once fairly eml)arked, with the public treasury to di'aw U])()n, these [)olitical ex[>lorers paused in their direct effort to traverse the continent, and eniployed the op- portunity for their personal projit, ])eltry -gathering at the eastei'n base of the Pocky ^lountains, where in ir.VJ they erected Fort Jon(|uiere. To tlieir ever- lasting disgrace be it said that these high oilicials, on the wrecked efforts of the truly noble Verendryc, by infamously diverting to their personal and pecuniary the t'ato/i of tlio inoiintaiiis near Ili'li'iia. Montana, tlio 1st st rl tv thi'. Mari/uin (le /ieaiihnni(iin ; F. X. (tarnvtm, L'flix'oirc du Cumvhi. toin. i. HI), vii. cap, 'J; Smitk's Hist. Cdiindd; AV(,v Yurk Uint. M(i"ai'C(l in Londuniu 17'>I5and antjther in 17<)4, the fonncr Vicing reprinted in 1774. a these translations the text is liadlj' nmtihited. The authur resided lil'U'i ii years in Louisiana, and it ia from hiiu that later writers derived their fidli'.st and most reliable information respeeting the Natchez and adjacent peojilcs. Though somewhat dilluse, like most writings of that day, nuich practical good Hcusf is displayi'il in tliese jMigcs. Tlie wi'itci- was well acquainted witli his Buliject, and the work may be considend reliable. MONCACHT APfi. 590 for those most ftiiniliar with tradition, that thoy iiiicflit toll him what he wished to know. At length am-s with black ignorance and mental (jbscui'ations. Thou'jfh strugijling in the darkness, his love for the sciences was not less than Plato's; his thirst for the enlightenments of travel was not exceeded by that of Herodotus.^'' How shall we rate a redskin who, prompted alone by the workings of inward intelligence, seeks from tradition to know what has been, and from what has been to dcstermine what shall be? to this end asking iirst his neighbors who and what they are, then tribes beyond, until in his eager thirst for knowledw he travels from the Mississippi first to the Atlantic, and then across the mountains to the verge of the l^icilic. "When I saw it," exclaims this American ]\rarco Polo, refening to his first view of the ocean, "I was so deliixhted that I could not si)eak. !My eves were too small for my soul's ease. The wind so disturbed the great water, that I thought the blows it gave would beat the land in pieces." •" 'Jo nc puis mioux Ic comparer (in'i'i ces premiers f!i-(''cn qui vnyacjcoiont priiiciiialeniciit dans TOricnt pour examiner les moeurs et Ics coiUuiuca ilcs diverfcca uatioiis.' Lc Pwjt du J'lutz, JiLlo called tlio Otters, who could inform liiin how to (U'fsc'uiul tho liver in a bout. I'l'csiiliodil Noit (.11 ,U- _ij mi;xique' Mai- ov Le r.uiE vu 1'uatz, 17"<7. wcstwaril is placoil in tlio north-wcsit ooriKT of tlic Curtf »/'■ fa f.nnisirme V(>luii}i Ffuiml-c lit' M. Lo I'au"! 7, <>i uiiicli iiixive it is wi'itton: Mi'tio l)ulle IJiviere vnt lepresL'Utt-o sans noiii il:in.H la L'aite c|iii fiit (loiiiU'c par iin Sauvagu a M. Uu la llmitau.' 1 /ijivo liui'uwitli a f'ac-ntmUe oi that bcctiuu uf tliu map. C02 EARLIEST OVERLAND EXPLORATI(»fS. "I ascondcd tlio ^lissoiiri for one month," continuos !Moiicac'lit Ape, **and although I had goih^ so far I did not turn to the right as thoy had di ectod inv, hceauso for some days past I had seen nuiny moun- tains wliich I dare not cross for fear of l)hsterini; mv feet." While hesitathig, not knowing what to do, lie presently saw a smoke, and thinking possihly it might arise from a camp of the Otters, he presented himself and to his joy found that it was so, the camp consist- ing of si)me thirty men and women bound eastward bulfalo-huntinu:. Their language Moncacht Ape did not understand, hut he himself understcjod by signs. The Otters were greatly sur[)rised with him, and they tarried there three days. Fortunately for the traveller it mean- while happened that one of the women complained of illness, aiid her husband, in a most un-Indian manner, offered to take her back to their village. Moncacht Ape accompanied them, and thus secured safe guid- ance over the worst part of his route. "Wc! ascended the Missouri," he goes on to say, "for nine short days, when we turned directly to the north and marched five days, at the end of which time we came upon a river of beautiful clear water, called for this I'eason the Beautiful liivcr." Fatigued and travel-stained, the man and woman plunged innnediatcly into the cool tempting streani, and signed their fellow-traveller to follow. With ])hilosopliic caution he replied that he needed bathing badly enough, but that ho was afraid of crocodiles. When informed that such monsters did not infest these northern waters, he bathed with ))leasure and l)rotit. Along the bank of the Beautiful River they marched the remainder of the day, when they came to a creek where the hunting party had cached their canoes. Taking one from the place of concealment, the travellers embai'ked, and reached the villa;xe of the Otters that same night. The fortnight our philosopher spent with this ADVEXTURKS ON THE RIVER. 003 friendly cou})lo was quite suHicieiit for liiin to learn somewhat of their lanuua- his stay, hut his i)rojeet hurned within him and oceuoieil his thou'^hts alwav. As some of the Otters were <;ointj; to smoke tlie calumet witli a kindred trihi directly on his I'outo, ISIoncacht Ape accompanied them, floating' delight- fully with the stream for eighteen days, stop[)ing now and then to hunt. Landing with the Otters at the village of tlieir friends, ^loncaeht A})e was persuaded to go no farther that season, because the heat was great, the grass high, and snakes to the lumter dan- gerous. Moreover, it was necessary he should learn the language of tlie people helow^" for it so hapj)ened, ' ho says, "that witli tliis knowledge! I sliould he al)le to understand all tlie natit)ns whieh I should iind, even to the Great Water which is to the west." From the counsels of the old men of this nation jMoncacht Ape derived great benefit, and lie loved them, for their heart was as their mouiii spake. When ready to depart they placed him in ac iiioe well stored with pemican and everything necessary for liis comfort, and sent him liappily on his way. "I soon arrived," contimies the ti'aveller, "at a small village whose people were astonished to sec me come alone. This nation wear the hair long, and regard all wlio wear it short as slaves, cutting it in order thus to dis- tinguish them. The chief of this nation, wlio found me on the bank of the river, called to me brusquely, 'Who are you; whence do you come; and Vvliat seek you here with your sjiort hair:'' I answered lilni, ' I am !Moncacht A]>e; I come from the nation of tlio Otters; I seek infoi-mation, and I come to you that you may give it me. !My hair is short tliat it may not embarrass me, but my heart is good. I ask no food; I have still far to go ; my right arm and my bow arc 004 EAKLIE'^T OVERLAND i:XI'LORATIOXS. nlwnvM (';|iia] to my iiccissitics. In tlu' winter T am thi' l)rai' and liu (l;»i-i:iant; in the sunnncr I am the eauli', vwv on tilt! win*'' to satisfy my curiositv. Slioiil.l you tear one who comes ah)ne and in the day'"' ^rumhUnLC that thouiih he came IVom the nation of tlie Otters he was not one of tliem, and \Vf;n!<•• ]|oehuck." Scarcelv were spoken these maulv>rized dried meat to carry in his hoat. In })artmg, the old man assured the stransj^er that to be well received by all the nations thence to the Great Water, he had Init to say that the ]>ig Koubuck was his friend. And so he found it to be.*- '- M. Lo T'anc (111 I'ratz licro questions Maii. ]iut us a matt';r of faet the lliissians liad at this time visited the coust but uuoe. uud tlieu not below lutituitu Mi". m EARLIEST OVERLAXl^ HXPLOR^iTIONS,. time of their annual arrival. All the fainil'K'S in tlio vicinity of their lantlin,ijj-])lace had retiiod from tho coast lost their youn<^ women should be oa[)tured. Our hero had smelt <^ampf)\vder aufl was not afraid. Leavini.^ their camp near the ]^eautiful Kiver tlio warriois journeyed live days to a [)oint on the coast wliere were two ;j^reat rocks, between which emptied into the sea a shallow stream on whose l)anks grev*' the yellow wood. It was between the two locks that the foreigners ran their vessel when the}' came ashore. Seventeen davs the warriors now waited, the arrival of their piev. All had been arrangid in council for t!u' attack, l^resently they espied the vessel in the distance, and hiding themselves they watched an ojiporfnnity fouc' ut off from the shij) and eii- ten-d th" little strcant between tlso rocks. When the t;tra!igers wert; we-ll scattered gathering wood and taking in watci', the natives fell upon them laid killed eleven, the ri'st escaping. Having siaughtei-ed tlie strangers like a savage, jMoncacht Ape examined their c )untry beyond was cold, barre/, and tenantles . Thereibre he returned to his own people by the rouie '^Xut uulikc tliu c'luthiui' uf tLu Alciita. 15 JONATHAN CARVER. 607 lie v/ont, having been absent on this western tour five years." Tt was not h)ng after the journey of Monracht Apd that Jonathan Carver, captain in the IJritisli provin- cial army, made his exph)ration of tlie interior of North Aiuerica." Setting out from Boston in Juno 17GG, he [>rocee(le(l to Fort Michilimackinae, whence he niadt- excursions round the lieadwaters of the ^[ississippi, reaching as liis farthest west a point on St l*ierre or Minnesota liiver, sixty mih^'s iVom the Falls of St Anthony. Tiiere he met a people whicli lie e reiiicnihereil, no other jierson, wiiite or red. !:o t'.ir as known, had ever liefoie jiert'ormed tlii.-i journey lietweeii the Missisitippi iind the I'aeilio Ocean liy way of the Colnnihia JJiver. 'Je liou sens qnt^ Je <()iiiiu A eet lionniie,' eoneludes the autlior, //int. ite fa LnniniiiiK. iii. KiT ><. 'i|iii iiavoit iii lie iioiivoit avoir aiieiin inteivt a inen iniiiost.r, iin' lit ajofiter t'oi ,'k tout ee im'il liie dit ; & je lie pills me ])ersiiadei' autre chose, siiion iin'il alia s;ir les liiiid.s iiiemes de la .Sler du Slid, doiit la i)j)ili(^ la plus Se]iteiitrionale |>eiit Be iioliiriier, nI Ton vent llier de rOuest. J.a l>ellt! Itiviere (lu'il a deseeinluo est lui (!( ■ v'e considi'ralile, (|iie Ton ii'aur.n, point de peine a di'c.mvrer, lorsiiii'- uiK lois on .era jiarveim aux sources du Missouri ; iS: je ne doiite jioint (pi'iino 8einl)ial-1e expi'ilition, si elle ctoit entii'prise, lie' lix/it enti>i I'lneiit iios iijre.s «i;r eette paitie do rAmeiii|Ue Septentrionale & sur la faiiien;>( Mcide I'thiest • lout o!i park' taut dans la Louisiane, & doiit il paroit ipie 1 mi lesire la ileeoii- Verte avec aideiir. ' ''(.'arver was liorn in Connecticut in 173'2, and died i;i iifndon in IT'^O. Owinj^ to the iiiterfereiii'e of goveriimeiit, the jmlilieation of his licmk wa.i delayed ten years: ami although the work ran tlii'>oii the (piestion of a liorth-wcsi passa:.'e, the BUtlior dt:;ived little luiielit from it, an-s, Mimltiiiii., //i.. ; I ,"1 "*Siiii'i' wli'ili tiiiu' L'NplofciN mill Hi'it litiHU liiivi' cilKil jitti'iitioii in tie fii't ii Kcorc of tiiiii t at liiiHl. cicli iijOiaii'nlly ha a (iiv,t liliKirvrr, wlu'ii ilm t4avai!<'s IiikI naiil as iiuu'li n IiuikIii'iI yc.'O'-^ lictiiit' llicm, '■'Tliis is till' r.i' t i:iriiiiiiii w • lia\.' 1 1 llii^ w.nl t ;,i -mi. ( 'arver lucnti nn it lirsl ill liis iiiti'iiilui'tioii, p. i\.. as a]>|plic ' t'l tin- < 'uliiiiiliia, 'tir.t t'.il!.* i.i'n till' raiilic ( )i'(aii at tlit' n1 rails nl Aiiiaii.' ( )ii |>. T'i tli.' Mtaltnuiit and wniil nrn araiii ri'iicatnl, aiiil nu en • cf tin' niaj". in latilii'li' 17 ami loin^itinlc !.;» wi.t fioni l.uniinn is p!ari cj ; la!.r, HlioDliii'.' Ii-nui v. Iiii li .■;;•.• twu ; Ina t Mtl\':uiu>, iind tlio wuiiU ■ liuuiUol Uiiijaii." hci) hiol, Ui;, i. 17, tluj ucnt;*. TITK sniXIXG MOUNTAINS. ooa Furtlior tliaii tliis, tlio Dacotiihs toll Carver of ccrtuin Shiniiii^ Mountains, whidi wi-rc pai't of a ran'^^j Itfi^'innini^ at Mcxict) and continiiinLf northward cast of (.'alit'ornia, and dividini^ the waters which flow into the jxult' of Mexico from those which flow into the eiilf of California.-'" On one <»f Carver's nuips we find laid di>wn in ahoiit latitude 4.')' a niinhty sticani whicli for five hundred uules from its mouth is twice as wid»; as the Mississij)|)i in a like location, and with dotted hanks and continuation, siL^nilyin;^ that its l>rea«lth anriliian(^v as to dazzle luiiolders, thoU'di \trv far west of the continental ridj^o m which were plucetl tho ShiniiijL;" Mountains. Other wony map-makei's to fill hlaidv sj)aces. lloun«l the head- waters of tlu! Missouri, if \\r may Im'I leve ( ;irver jUrew male and female mandiakes, that is to say, a spe- cies of root resemhliiiLf human heinij^s of hutli sexes. Jiut after America has heen «»hliL;id to make I'oom for l^acon's Atlantis, and (jlullivei- has founded here his l.iyi;dom of Hrol)digna;jf, we should not he disturheil hy trifles. ])oul)tless the Shininj^ ^fountains of tlie T)acotahs Were those white domes risiuLT IVom eintrald f'ori'sts I It woiilil licit ilo fii caii'v til"' l{c>it\v Midiiilaiii'* t'Hi fill- to tlic north r«) jiH t'l lilcifk till' Aiiiiiii Siriiil liifi st.iti il, tlioni.'!i til"- ^'roiiiid f">r it i-t not liiviii, »!■ ■! ' tiny ii|i|M'iir t'" ciul in alxnit forty scmii <>r tortyci)ilit lU-nni-!! of north ' .nlc, w l!(r"'ii niiiiil»'i' "if rixii-Marisf, uini inipty tli" iiiwlvts, .itlnr into thf ith Sfii, into lliiilson's llnv, ito tl IC Mllfll-* that •niniMiin.'itu lutwft-n tlicsf twoMi-as. AnioiiL,' thi'sf nniiintaini. tlms.- that In- to Ih"- wi't "if till' Ifivcr St I'ii'rrc allril till' Sliinim,' Mountain'^, fitint txu inliniUi iiunilxr of chryntiii stoni'.-t of an Miiia/.iu;^ »i/c, w ith « hi< h tin-y ml wliirli, u lull the HUH hliiinn full ii|iiiii tlicni, Hituikli- Very givat "liwtiini'i'.' t'lunr'H Tfun/K. |J1, . Uin. N. W. CoAKT, VuL, I. :n» to bt- "•0\ 111 (I, Dc-cn ul u J) !g|Q) EARLIEST OVERLAND EXPLORATIONS. Avliicli greet tlio woarv travelli'i-'s eye while yet. ftir awjiy over tlie hillowy jdain, wliicli jj^reet the mariiio's earnest j^aze wliile yet the sliore-liiie is iiivisihle ; I'nr we an; told that the pliosphoreseeiit waves <>t' thr Pncitir at iiiuht are lustrous uiKlerthe reliectioii of their ylisl- ejiini^ snows. To make the tale coin})lete, Carver ini|)ro<^'Tiate(l M'ith ,L(ol(l the Shininuf ^loiintains of the JJaeotahs; and lu'i-e aj^ain he was nearer right than ])erhaj)s Ik; himself susjtcctcd. So jilentiful was gold among the ])eo|)leof the Shining A[ountains, he had hecn assurt'd, that th(\v madi' their commonest utensils