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TOWARD THE SUNRISE 
 
 Hi 
 
 A (Guide 
 
 T" TIIK 
 
 SKACOAST KHSORTS OF HASTKRN MAINK 
 NKW BinJNSWICK, NOVA SCOTIA 
 ;. PKINCK HDWAKD ISLAND AND 
 
 CAPH BRHTON. 
 
 lIJ.rSTKATlvU 
 
 
 '••..••• 
 
 PUBLISHKD BY THK 
 
 INTrCRNAXIONAT. STKAMSHIH COMl^ANV 
 
 BOSTON. 
 
 1805. 
 
 ^ 
 
 i 
 
 ^ 
 
.^TP.- 
 
 INTERNATIONAL STEAMSHIP COMPANY. 
 
 J. 15. COVLE, Manager, Portland, Me. 
 
 E. A. WALDRON, General Agent, Hoston, Mass. ' 
 
 \ 
 
 ' ) 
 
 Tukils imii (hiienil liiformatioii may be ohtaincii at the foUo-aHiig A)ienci,-s of 
 
 the Company : — 
 
 HOSTON, Mass. 
 BOSTON, Mass. 
 PORTK.'XNU, Me. 
 EASTPORT, Me. 
 CALAIS, Me. . 
 ST. JOHN, N.li. 
 
 E. A. Wai.dkon, r.eneml Agent, Commercml Wharf. 
 
 A. J. Simmons, 211 Washington Street. 
 
 H. P. C. Hbrsev, Railro.ail Wharf. 
 
 .A. H. Leamtt, International S.S. Company's Wharf. 
 
 Jas. I,. Thompson, Frontier Steamlmat Company. 
 
 C. E. I.AEtHLEP, Reed's Point Wharf. 
 
 Also at offices of Sonthern and Western Lines; the Fall River, Providence, Sionvigton and 
 Norwich Line^ of Steamers: and in New Enslaml and the Provio'res. 
 
 a 
 
 ^ 
 
 S' 
 
 ^ 
 
 R. A. tt'1'PI.Y CO., PRINTERS, liOSTOV 
 309 
 
3MPANY. 
 
 Mass. 
 
 tjr A,^t'HL'it's of 
 
 ommercial Wharf, 
 reel. 
 
 L"ompany'.s Wharf. 
 
 )oat Company. 
 
 arf. 
 
 lence, Stonvigton and 
 
 _L 
 
 ^-^ 
 
 0.. 
 
 ! 
 
 t4 
 Q 
 
 - .> 
 
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 c 
 
 c) 
 -i 
 
 TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 
 PAGB 
 
 POKM, SUNRISK I.ANU 
 
 4 
 
 INTRODl'CTORY 
 
 KN VOYAGE - _ 
 
 7 
 
 THK NORTH .SHORK— BKACO.N'S— PORTL.V.NI) — K.VSTWARD FROM 
 PORTLAND— MAIXK COA.ST AT .SUN.SKT — .SU-VRISK. 
 
 PASSAMAyrODDY BAY - . . - ,q 
 
 KA.STPORT— CAMI'OHKI.LO— LUBEC— SrRROrNDINC. TOWNS. 
 
 GRAND MANAN ^ 
 
 ACROSS THE BAY — CLIFFS OK MANAN — SALINK TVl'ES. 
 
 THlv ST. CROIX -----... 
 
 ST. ANDREWS— ROBBINSTON — UP RIVER TO CALAIS AND .ST. 
 STEPHEN- LAKES VTOPIA AND ST. GEORCE. 
 
 ST. JOHN 38 
 
 CITY AND RIVER — THE PICTIRK-SQIE VOYAGE TO FREDICRICTON 
 — UPPER RIVER AND GRAND FALLS. 
 
 FISHING GROUNDS 
 
 4/ 
 
 THE TOBlyrE — MIRAMICHI— RESTIGOUCHE AND JACyiET— FISH 
 AND GAME LAWS— EASTWARD TO MONCTON. 
 
 PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND - ... ,8 
 
 THE GARDEN OK CANADA — SUMMERSIDE — CHARLOTTETOWN — 
 RU.STICO— SPORTS— RURAL TYPES— THE RETURN. 
 
 TO NOVA SCOTIA BY RAIL - 62 
 
 TANTRAMAR MARSHES — TOWNS EN ROUTE— HI.STORIC GROUNDS 
 — THE REGION OF MINF:S— STRAIT OF CANSO. 
 
 CAPE BRETON . . - . . . . gg 
 
 THE BRAS D'OR LAKES— SYDNEY- HI.STORIC LOUISBURG — BAD- 
 DF;CK — WHYCdcOMAGH — THE GREAT WILDERNESS. 
 
 NOVA SCOTIA - - - - g 
 
 DIGBY AND THK ANNAPOLIS BASIN — ANNAPOLIS AND THE 
 VALLEY,— EVANGELINE'S LAND— GRAND PRE— MINAS 
 BASIN — WINDSOR — HALIFA.V AND THK SOUTH SHORE- 
 CONCH'SION. 
 
 
 UliWW 
 
r 
 
 .(i-— i - -- . 
 
 i^Wl 
 
 Hy thv warm breath of Siniinier gently famied, 
 Awiiy from home and thoughts of care we steal 
 Within the wide-decked ship whose eager keel. 
 Spurning our shores, steers forth for "Sunrise I/.md. 
 N'ow vast and multitudinous on each hand, 
 The restless, surging ocean billows reel. 
 And o'er their foam-capped crests to us reveal 
 The outlines of a panorama grand,— 
 Passamaquoddy's shores and i-lands iireeu, 
 The rugged sea-girt cliffs of Grand Manan, 
 iMirever washed by Fundy's mighty tides, 
 Acadian fields, and Blomidon's steep sides. 
 And Breton's Cape whereon the sun to man 
 New rising in the western world is seen. 
 
 ' ♦ * 
 
net). 
 
 steal 
 
 keel. 
 
 rise I.iiiul." 
 
 veal 
 
 Mm^e-m^-:.,^:t>ts^ir^i^^ 
 
 
 /ATgOD^^ 
 
 VEXING question this, " How and where shall 
 I spend my vacation ? " when a hundred attrac- 
 tions offer themselves in tempting array. You 
 may have "done" resorts near home till the 
 desire for " something new " demands attention. 
 Then allow me to offer a few suggestions. 
 From the tourist's point of view there are 
 always new worlds to conquer, fresh fields to 
 visit, new experiences to live. The surprising 
 thing is that so much remains so near at hand and so rich in entertain- 
 ment. You may not appreciate how much lies in store for you " just 
 over the border," in that region " toward the sunrise," that landscapes 
 of unique and varied beauties wait to gladden your eye ; nor how novel 
 may be your experiences under another flag. Not alone a land of 
 strange and beautiful physical features, but also rich in historic memories 
 and bathed in the soft glamour of romance. All this, and more, is true 
 of that portion of Canada called the Maritime Provinces, the " Acjuod- 
 die " of the Indian, the Acadia of the pioneers of France in the New- 
 World. 
 
 Who has not conjured up legends and tales at mention of " Passa- 
 maquoddy," or felt a stimulus in the resounding names of " Grand 
 
Manan " or " Inindy " ? wliat sjiortsnian that lias not seen visions of 
 noble game and Indian guides with deft paddles, to the music of such 
 names as " Metapedia," " Restigouche," or " Miramichi "? 
 
 Certainly none could have read " Mvangeline " without a longing for 
 the fair fields of drand I'rt} and the mysterious forests of Hiomitlon. 
 All this becomes reality for him who reads, by means of the water route 
 of the well-established Intirnational Steamship Company, — a reality 
 l)refaced l)y all the delights of an ocean voyage sans discomforts, — a 
 voyage skirting the jjictured shores of more than half New Kngland, the 
 waters of I'assaniatiuoddy and Fundy Hays, having Boston for its initial 
 point, Portland and Eastport its intermediate landings, and St. John its 
 terminal. 
 
 'I'his company has three side-wheel steamers, the " State of Maine," 
 " Cumberland," and " New lirunswick," the two first named of about 
 sixteen hundred tons burden, anil the latter of about one thousand tons, 
 fitted with conveniences and luxuries of modern naval construction. 
 The cuisine and service have long been a matter of note to travellers, 
 and are kejjt at an unvaryingly high standard of excellence. 
 
 In connection with its steamship lines this company has established 
 a system of tourist routes and rates (see latter part of book), covering 
 rail and steamboat lines necessary for reaching the summer resorts of 
 Maine, as well as those within the Maritime Provinces of New Bruns- 
 wick and Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island and Cape Breton, famous 
 C.rand Manan, the charming Passama(iuoddy liay resting retreats of 
 Campobello Island and St. Andrews-by-the-Sea. 
 
 The reader will readily understand that the limited space afforded in 
 a book of this tlescription will not allow of an exhaustive treatment of the 
 many summer resorts reached by this company and its connections. 
 
 A resume of personal observations, combined with numerous im- 
 pressions of other and more careAil observers and writers, is all that the 
 author can offer on this most fascinating of subjects. " See it for your- 
 self" is the only perfect satisfaction. 
 
 r '. 
 
^ .1 
 
 Ti^tfm^fiti^iaaKii^'aAriii^i 
 
 seen visions of 
 ; music of such 
 '? 
 
 ut a longing for 
 s of Hioniidon. 
 
 the water route 
 my, — a reality 
 liscomforts, — a 
 ;\v England, tlie 
 on for its initial 
 and St. John its 
 
 5tate of Maine," 
 lanied of about 
 i thousand tons, 
 \\ construction. 
 )te to travellers, 
 ice. 
 
 ' has established 
 book), covering 
 nmer resorts of 
 of New Hruns- 
 Hreton, famous 
 ting retreats of 
 
 pace afforded in 
 treatment of the 
 onnections. 
 1 numerous im- 
 rs, is all that the 
 See it for your- 
 
 mr. NOKTU SHOKK- lii:AC()N'S-I'()RTI.ANI>- 
 MAINK. (OAST AT SINSKT- SINKISK. 
 
 l"rER an admonitory blast or two from the hoarse 
 throat of the whistle, the polite suggestion, " All 
 ashore that's going ashore," the heavy i)lash of 
 stern and bow line by the steamer's side, the great 
 |)iston plunges into the depths of the engine pit, 
 and the ponderous wheels begin their revolutions, 
 not to cease until two hundred and thirty miles 
 and more have been spanned, and twenty-one 
 thousand revolutions scored on the wonderfully human little register 
 below. 
 
 From the hurricane deck the roofs of the warehouses seem moving 
 slowly away, the voyage is actually begun ; we would not bespeak for 
 you any other than a balmy, sunny day, be it early or late summer, or 
 mid-season, the great steamer, in its holiday attire of gay bunting, re- 
 ceiving numerous little marine courtesies from small craft, glides out 
 among the exhilarating scenes of a great harbor at the height of the 
 season, and heads for the open sea. 
 
 Perhaps for the first time you will realize, as )ou look back, what an 
 evolution Boston is undergoing in its physical aspects at least, as the 
 half-dozen recent architectural achievements assert themselves, and soar 
 grandly heavenward. Wonderfully striking and picturesque it is, sug- 
 gestive perhaps also of the " Greater Boston " that is to be ; the gilded 
 dome sinks into a secondary position, dwarfed by the superior tow- 
 ers that stand before it. 
 
 The steamer is now swiftly leaving the city behind and bringing into 
 view the islands of the harbor, — (lovernor's, with il;i sullen, silent Fort 
 
 7 
 
i' 
 
 Wintlirop, on the left, Castle Island, with massive waiU ol" Fort Inde- 
 pendence on the right, tied to South lioston by a many-spanned bridge, 
 and fcjllowing the main ship channel, Spectacle and I,ong Islands glide 
 silently by. That large gr()n|) of buildings on the left is not a stmimer 
 resort exactly, although it is (|uite a favorite retreat for certain individuals 
 who frequent it at the invitation ami expense of the municipality '. A mile 
 or so and we are off the northern end of Long Island and Nix's Mate, 
 with (Jalloui^e's and I.ovell's beyond. It is just here that our course is 
 brcjuglU around to N. K. by K. and we are Iieaded straight for Cape 
 Ann ; on our right, again, the striking group of the I'.rewsters swings into 
 view, (Ireat, Middle, and Outer; just beyond and over the Middle, 
 looming white in the morning sunlight, stands the tower of Boston Light. 
 
 "Though if a cloud-shade chance to dip 
 Upon it a moment, 'twill sutklcnly sink. 
 Levelled and lost in the darkened main, 
 Till tlic sun liuilds it suddenly up again 
 As if with a rub of Aladdin's lamp." 
 
 The broad waters of Massachusetts Bay open up before, sprinkled 
 with many a flying sail, the line of smoke from a distant steamer deli- 
 cately pencilled along the soft summer sky. Nahant, first to appear of 
 the group of headlands along the North Shore, lifts itself as a kind of 
 promise of much that is to follow. Behind it a golden thread moors it 
 to the land, then melts away on either side in glistening, shining strands, 
 — the beaches of Revere and Lynn. 
 
 The moving panorama shifts again, and another bold peninsula 
 stretches out along the northern horizon, flanked by the white beaches 
 and glowing bits of ledge of Swampscott on oiie side, the dim out- 
 lines melting into mist on the other. It is Marblehead Neck ; from it 
 to the many spires of Lynn a chain of summer colonies, basking in the 
 mellow light, close on our port the tiny light on Egg Rock. As the 
 light on the neck comes into full view, 
 
 " Xot far aw.iy we see the port, "• • 
 
 The strange, old-fashioned, silent town, , 
 
 The lighthouse, the dismantled fort, ^ ! ■ 
 The wooden houses, quaint and brown " 
 
 of Marblehead itself, that delightful old town of song and story, gnarly, 
 knotty, loyal, and conservative. Salem, scarcely less interesting in its 
 picturesfiueness, modestly retires to its snug harbor behind Marblehead, 
 and is scarcely discernible through the haze of an early morning, dim 
 
 • 
 
 8 
 
1 
 
 VJ, ..-^■JBMIW'V-."- 
 
 i of Fort Iiidf- 
 ipanncd bridge, 
 ig Islands glide 
 not a siiminer 
 •tain individuals 
 ipality : A mile 
 md Nix's Mate, 
 It our course is 
 aiglit for Cape 
 ters swings into 
 er the Middle, 
 if Boston Light. 
 
 efore, sprinkled 
 t steamer deli- 
 st to appear of 
 If as a kind of 
 hread moors it 
 ihining strands, 
 
 bold peninsula 
 white beaches 
 , the dim out- 
 Neck ; from it 
 basking in the 
 Rock. As the 
 
 I story, gnarly, 
 
 teresting in its 
 
 id Marblehead, 
 
 morning, dim 
 
 and >liadowy like the tales that Hawthorne wove from the witc hery of 
 Salem's olilen time. Indeed, how saturated with the glamour of 
 romance and tradition is all this northern shore, from I'.oston I5ay to 
 I'ortsmouth town I How many names dear to New England's heart, or 
 written on fame's fair scroll, are suggested to the mind of the beholder ! 
 
 From Salem to Cape Ann's rocky verge is an almost continuous i)ro- 
 cession of country villas ; creations of many of the first architects of our 
 day; homes of elegance, luxury, and refinement. Heverly, Manchester, 
 Magnolia, all of them backeil by mile upon mile of bronze green 
 verdure. Eastern Point, another of our favorite haunts, supporting on 
 its bald front a light, marks the entrance to Cdoucester and its ami)le 
 harbor, from whose remote shelter a score of sail are lazily drifting. 
 
 For some time jjast two gray towers have l)een growing out of the 
 distance, like the dim portals to some mysterious haven, out there be- 
 yond Cape .Ann, — 
 
 " 'I'wo pale sisters all alone. 
 On an island hleak ami hare," — 
 
 the Cape Ann lights of Thatcher's Island, first to the eye of the trans- 
 atlantic pilot, first, also, in their classification and importance, their twin 
 columns rising a hundred and twelve teet skyward, constituting, with 
 Boston Light, the Shoals, and Cape Elizabeth, the great guideboards, as 
 it were, from Boston to Portland. It is just here that the steamer's 
 course is shaped, either for Portlaiul or Eastport as the case may lie ; if 
 for the latter, east by north, to Matinicus Light, if the former, as our pres- 
 ent purpose requires, then it is for Cape Elizabeth Light, and within 
 sight of the Isles of Shoals, those " half-dozen fragments of wave-worn 
 rock, thrust up from the bottom of the sea, like the cast-off remnants of 
 a continent," that wonderful, sunny archipelago, like 
 
 "A string of pearls they lie c)n Ocean's bre.ist, 
 Steeped in a languor brought them from afar." 
 
 They, too, have been sung by poets and limned by artists as no other 
 island group along our coast. It seems (juite apropos that the light- 
 keeper's daughter should possess a poet's soul, should be the annalist 
 and idealizer of its charms and mysteries. 
 
 The indefinite and misty shore line that reaches in a vari-hued are 
 from Cape Ann to Cape Neddick we know to be the boundary of three 
 States on the ocean side, the strands to which so many thousands flee 
 for their breath of salty air and cooling bath ; Agamenticus only, the 
 storied hill of York, standing out in strong relief, a sort of beacon to 
 
 ^ 
 
 11 
 
 is 
 
guide the sailor to a salt- JKuiior. Ibis liiii iiad iit.'( iiliar fascinations to 
 tiic Indian, a tradition averring tlial St. Aspfiniiiid. a propiiet and saint 
 of tliesc |ii'o|(lo, was interred wilii sasage jionijjof fniierai rites upon its 
 summit ; let us be tliankful thai its sonorous name still lives, tiv.ugli 
 Charles I. sought to distinguish it with the name of lioston. Moon Island 
 and its light, that romes just in line with .\gauienti( lis, stands out in soli- 
 tary isolation, some ten miles from shore or neighbor. It is about this 
 time when blue roat and brass buttons, assisted by a bell, aimounces 
 diiuier, and an opportunity offers to discover that one (an get as perfect 
 service on a steamer as on shore, // he is on the present steamer. 
 
 Returning to our picture gallery on deck, nearly three hours of c(jn- 
 stant ilelight is exjjerienced prior to arrival off ('a])e I'lli/abeth, //v',-7(/(</ 
 you have not violated the laws of nature by unceremoniously rushing 
 through the bill of fare I Just here we review the fair summer land> of 
 Scarborough antl Old Urchanl beaciies, curving gracefully around to 
 
 westward and Wood Island Light farther still to Cape Porpoise and dear 
 old Kennebunk, fifteen miles or so away, every inch of it mouldy with 
 the history of two hundred years and more. Pathetic history, too, some 
 of it, that of decadence from the palmy days of shipbuilding to be 
 awakened again by the advent of " improvement companies" with their 
 jingling ducats. 
 
 The twin lights ot l^li/.abeth, range lights they are called, one a 
 " first-order fixetl," the other a flashing light, are among the finest of 
 our exceptionally fine lighthouse service. We seem to be competent to 
 Airnish guidance at any rate, if other powers furnish ships, — something 
 to be grateful for ! The High Head of Cape Elizabeth might more 
 aptly be called Cahbagdicmi ! for aside from lighthouses and rock it lUiu 
 to cabbages, six thousand tons of them raised in one year ! Another 
 croj) also seems indigenous to this spot, one not as profitable or pleasing 
 to contemplate, one " sown Ijy the tempest, reaped by the whirlwind " 
 
 lO 
 
I nitfr 
 
 I tlllrffltfe 
 
 -,>n.^=r{,-u'-^^3aljaia^Y- 
 
 .JsJ^iao:^ 
 
 ig^ 
 
 ^SlmK^tSiU^ 
 
 fascinations to 
 )I)iiet and saint 
 \\ rites npun its 
 11 lives, tlv.ugli 
 1. lio(in Island 
 andsont in soli- 
 it is about this 
 hell, announces 
 n get as perfec t / 
 steamer, 
 e hours of c(jn- 
 '.aheth, proviiiiii 
 )niously rushing 
 uninier lands of 
 jfully arounil to 
 
 
 )rpoise and dear 
 it mouldy with 
 story, too, some 
 [)l)uilding to he 
 nits" with their 
 
 i called, one a 
 iig the finest of 
 be competent to 
 ps, — something 
 ;th might more 
 and rock it runs 
 
 year ! Anotiier 
 table or pleasing 
 
 the whirlwintl " 
 
 as it were, for periiaps no one locality Maine coast-wise has seen so maiiv 
 wrecks. One jiage alone from the marine diary will suffice, its date 
 Sei)temher 26, 1889, when several h()|icless wrecks strewed Kli/ai)eth 
 and Scarborough shore I 
 
 liut tliese are not congenial sui)jects. an<l while we are retrospecting, 
 Portland Mead has "hove insight," its light the fust to shine on tiiis 
 (oast, dating from 1790, and marking one extreme of Casco Hay, Seguin 
 the other, and Half-Way its central point, or nearly so. Passing Kam 
 Island, which looks jierfectly harmless, we are confronted by the rather 
 imposing Ottawa House, charmingly placed on (bushing's Island, the 
 most imi)ortant resort perhaps on the bay. Passing House Islan<l on 
 which Fort Scammel solemnly stands, with Fort (lorges beyond, and 
 historic l''ort I'reble on our left, we are fairly in Portland Harbor and 
 before the fair citv itself. 
 
 1 1 
 
 ^^^ 
 
 ii 
 
Tfe\J 
 
 " The jircatest scai)()rt in the world could not have a more splendid 
 or n)ore imposing approach," says Drake; and certainly none is more 
 worthy of it than the Forest City, tiueen of Maine's municipalities, seated 
 on her noble hill, the proud monarch of fair Casco Bay and of a harbor 
 unexcelle<l on the Atlantic seaboard. 
 
 Her streets, lined ami arched by stately elms, fronted by no less 
 stately churches and colonial mansions, suggest her hii^toric i)ast, or 
 recall the memory of her beloved poet, Longfellow ; with her numerous 
 handsome civic and commercial buildings, her " inalienable freehold in 
 pure air, generous sunshine, and the most ex(|uisite of sea-scapes," it is 
 natural that Portland should prove attractive to a stranger, and on closer 
 acipiaintance a most " livable " town. 
 
 Po[)ulated by some twoscore thousand souls, the terminal of several 
 railroad lines, the very heart, indeed, from which numerous railway 
 arteries radiate, north, east, and west to the great seaside resorts of 
 Maine, the White Mountains, and the woods, lakes, and streams of the 
 north, and of course the first maritime city east of Boston, the temptation 
 is strong to dwell on such a congenial subject much more than our 
 limited space allows. Portland has a history, too, a rich and savory one ; 
 dating from its incorporation as Falmouth in 1658, re-incorporated as 
 Portland in 1 786, known also to the savage as Machigonne. Such 
 names as Munjoy, Bramhall, Preble, Cleves, and a score of others keep 
 alive the memories of those whose valor or greatness has made history. 
 Of course every one will wish to find the old house of Peleg Wadsworth, 
 he of Castine fame, and grandfather of the poet, standing near the hardly 
 less venerable Preble House, and the birthplace of the poet on Fore 
 Street. 
 
 The antitpiated eastern cemetery will furnish material for a good 
 day's rummaging among its moss-grown stones and tablets. 
 
 Some hot naval engagements have taken place off Portland, that of 
 the "Boxer" and "Enterprise" in 1814 leading the list. She also 
 enjoys the distinction of being the only Northern port visited by rebels 
 
 12 
 
.^•v 
 
 more splenditi 
 
 none is more 
 
 palities, seateil 
 
 11(1 of a harbor 
 
 letl by no less 
 ■torir i)ast, or 
 i her numerous 
 )le freehold in 
 a-scapes," it is 
 , and on closer 
 
 inal of several 
 iicrous railway 
 side resorts of 
 5treams of the 
 the temptation 
 nore than our 
 id savory one ; 
 ncorporated as 
 igonne. Such 
 3f others keep 
 i made history, 
 eg Wadswortli, 
 lear the hardly 
 ; poet -on Fore 
 
 al for a good 
 
 jrtland, that of 
 list. She also 
 sited by rebels 
 
 i«ir-iirri»atiiii 
 
 i i irn i iMl i iiiartatr' - •i«t tT i 'fr ; 
 
 dunn;; the C.'i.il War. s.k rilit in;; 1)\ lli.il (l.uiiij; feat here utter " Cu^liing." 
 Portland, too ii.i> been tried iiy fire, that famous disaster of July 4, 1H66, 
 wipini,' out nearly one iialf the ( ity, and esiilaining the air of newness in 
 its western section, enhancing perhaps the value of tiie iiislori( remains, 
 revealing, too, the signitlcance of its seal, the phd-nix rising from ashes and 
 bearing the legend, " Kesurgam." 
 
 liut the views, yes. and sinh views ! those of liramhall's and Mun- 
 joy's hills, or " Western and Eastern promenades," as they are now 
 known , from one, — 
 
 " 'I'liu ^WLLp of ;i lii»l 111 iniMiiU.iiio, 
 riif ll.isii iif \\ liiiiuliid lilN " J 
 
 Stroudwater and Presumpcott v/inding through their evergreen beds, and 
 the White Momitains scarce sixty miles away ; and from the other, the 
 fairy archipelago of Casco Bay, — no, it is not strange that our ])oet 
 often recurs to the fair home of his youth : — 
 
 "Often I think of the heaiitiful town 
 That is seated by the sea ; 
 , Often in thought go up and ilown 
 
 The pleasant streets of that dear old town, - ' 
 
 And my youth conies back to nie " ; 
 
 n 
 
 riawiK-asi.-. -<i-nwa»^i^!^s5' ' 
 
1 1 > TiW i ■ '■ ■sx^a^api 
 
 H 
 
 nr lli.it iii.my of (.iir writers fi-lt drawn to its iiuilinK siuidcs. C.miI.I 
 iIhtc Ik- iiifiiti..iH'(l .iny .jiy ,,f \o\v KnK'iaiul iiK.rc di'siral.k- a>> a siim- 
 inir roM)rt? A tfm|HTatiiri- always mil.l ; a hroatli In.ni t lie sea ever 
 innviiijr; an incxhaiistil.lo list nf cvnrsion trips always in hand ; a social 
 lift- tiiat is eminently <liarniinK and desirable; and a i'ui)lii: Library nf 
 ^reat valne. 
 
 It is bnt twelve miles fnini the < ity of Portland to Old Orchard 
 l!ea<h. and the train delivers its passengers directly in the midst of one 
 of the liveliest seashore scenes in the worl.l. The beach is but a hnndred 
 yards distant, its great combing snrf line making itself known at once- 
 The largest hotels upon the coast of Maine are here, and invite a sojourn. 
 
 Old Or.hird ranks with Cape May and Atlantic City in |)opidarity 
 with sinniner guests. It may be reached on the day of departm-e frnn'i 
 Boston, in season for a six-o'clock tea. by the ocean day line in con- 
 nection with trains at the I'ortlan.l rnion Station. 
 
 The reader may fmd all this ;ind a IionI of other valnablo suggestions 
 in i:i well's (Miide to the city. 
 
 
 MITEHCflO 
 
 •4 
 
■ Iiadcs. ('(Mild 
 mIiIc as a siiin- 
 II the si-a ever 
 hand ; a social 
 l)lii' Library ot' 
 
 Ol.l Ordiard 
 c midst of oiif 
 liiit :i liiindri'd 
 noun at oiuc- 
 vitL' a sojourn. 
 
 in |)o|)iilarity 
 I (.'part II re from 
 ly line in con- 
 
 )lc sii},'j,a'stions 
 
 ilTEHCflO 
 
 » 
 
 •;H ■v.'-V:',''" 
 
 K.VSnVAKD IKDM I'ORJI.ANjP. 
 
 JOSSIMLN' oil k'aviiig I'ortland tlio tide will allow us to ^I't 
 a view at short range of that niagnill<ent old sentinel. 
 White Head, that stands guard on the northeasterly end 
 of C'ushing's Island ; if so, it is easy to understand why it 
 filled the imagination of L(jngfellow's youth, insjjiring his 
 pen as well as others. .\ momentary jpassage hclwcen the gray walls on 
 the starl)oard and the green banks on the i)ort side of Cushing's and 
 I'eak's Islands, and we are met l)y one of th(we visions of beauty that 
 only the coast of Maine reveals, — 
 
 * " Mays rcsi)lcn(leMt as the hcavLii, ^ 
 
 Starred and gf nimtd hv thousand isles, 
 (lire! thee; t'asco with its islets, 
 Quoddy with its dimpled smiles," — 
 
 melting into the golden distance of a late summer afternoon. 
 
 Drake, in his " I'ine Tree Coast," uses the apt illustration of a 
 ploughed field for this remarkable bay, the ocean having filled the fur- 
 rows, and proiluced a cro]) of some two himdred and twenty or more 
 isles, all trending like the furrows in a northeasterly direction. It would 
 be madness to attempt to name all the islands in sight, the more prom- 
 inent beyond Peak's Island !)eing Long, Creat Chebeague, Hope. 
 Jewell's, and the two tiny specks of inner and outer (Ireen, near which 
 latter rises a bare rock known by the euphonious title of " the hunk of 
 l)ork." 
 
 The commander of one of the steamers tells us of a gunner who, 
 deprived of his boat by the rising tide, found very scant sustenance from 
 this same jjorcine morsel during a long November day and night. Hy 
 the way, how much the enjoyment of a sea trip is enhanced by a cheery 
 and communicative captain, such, for instance, as will be found on the 
 steamers of the International line ! 
 
 »5 
 
 ill 
 
 I tsg 
 
 \i 
 !i 
 
 ! SI 
 Iff 
 
 :^- 
 

 
 u \ :ii 
 
i> 
 
 • Hut to renew our Icssuii in geography, after passing the (ireen Islands, 
 Broad Sound opens on the left, and beyond, Merriconeague Sound with 
 Harpswell's Neck on its left, IJailey's and storied Orr's on the right. 
 This brings us to Half-Way Rock with its granite shaft and light, sup- 
 posedly e(iuidistant from Portland and the Kennebec, init actually " half- 
 way from nowhere," as the pilot i)uts it. 
 
 Our course is now made east by north, and from Half-Way to Seguin 
 Light is fifteen miles. Northward lay Harpswell's historic shores, and on 
 the other hand, 
 
 " Far out at sua. 
 
 The ships that tlee 
 Along the dim horizon line, 
 Their sails nnfuKI 
 Like cloth of gold, 
 Transfigured l)y that light divine." 
 
 After i)assing Cape Sinall, Seguin, which has been growing steadily, 
 looms proudly before us, just a trifle to jjort, lifting its head two hundred 
 feet in air, marking most appropriately the estuary of the Kennebec. 
 
 The labyrinthine coast line stretches away into purple distance, flecked 
 with brilliant touches of sunlight on the myriad summer houses that 
 throng the shores of Popham. 
 
 It is eiTiinently fitting that " M'nhiggin," as the old salts call it, bathed 
 in sunset glory should mark the close of day. Historic, romantic, 
 delicious old Monhegan, beloved by pirate, trader, fisherman, and artist 
 as well, for wellnigh three centuries ! Its light guiding the storm-chased 
 mariner, its tiny harbor, just inside Monanis, a refiige for many a belated 
 fisherman. 
 
 Monhegan is in actuality two islands, the little Monanis separated by 
 a few rods only from the iiiain island ; its fishing settlement oflering a 
 unique study for the socialist and a perfect " find " for the artist. It is 
 almost an annoyance to be called to supper when absorbed in the glories 
 of a sunset at sea, were it not for the whetted appetite that clamors, and 
 the table which i)resents a menu that is a work of art in itself. Then 
 satisfy the physical, that the a;sthetic sense may the more freely enjoy 
 the feast oflered from the hurricane deck later. 
 
 The long twilight of summer lingers caressingly along the horizon far 
 astern, and 
 
 " Looking across where the line of coast 
 Stretches darkly, shrinking away from the sea, 
 The lights spring out at its edge." 
 
 All the tints of opal and pearl shell play in the steamer's seething 
 
 »7 
 
 / 
 
 I 
 
M 
 
 I 
 
»WWIi !■ UWBBi'iMWW 
 
 :1 
 
 wiikc ; Monlicgan's watchttil eye sparkles ami fleams tnnii its s<)nil)re 
 throne t;ir to the northward; thirty miles away t'aniden's noble moun- 
 tains may l)e descried ; Matiniciis, scarce distinj,'iiishal)le from a lesser 
 star, beckons us on ; while out to sea the billows are crooniiij; their cease- 
 less lullaby. We are off IVnobscot Hay, where the great river " comes 
 to meet and mingle with his own bright bay." 'i'his is the land of the 
 Norseman, the region of shadowy Norimibega, the favorite vantage 
 ground of early discovery, of Jean I'armentier, Ramusio, Jean Alfonse, 
 Roberval, and Chamiilain, the scene also of the romantic adventures of 
 old liaron Castine, whose name still lives in the ipiaint town named for 
 him on the Magadnce. 
 
 'i'his is a time for reveries, when sjjeech is useless and silence golden. 
 Onward, still onward, "toward the sunrise," through the vast areas of 
 time and space, and the long restful hours of a night at sea, past Mt. 
 Desert's blue-black forms ami the stately beacons that guartl the i)ine- 
 tree coast. At early morn one is awakened by call of the bell boy or 
 the light of a])proaching ilay, and looking out finds far to the north the 
 sharp blue line of the Eastern Maine hills. \Ve are off Machias, the l)old 
 headlands of Cutler, rock-rilibetl, and defiant push boldly out against 
 the brine. The peculiarly sharp jieak is Bool Head, and near at hand 
 Eastern Head. Eastward, and still fixrther away, looms Grand Manan, 
 crowned with the flaming tiara of a matchless sunrise. An hour or more 
 of steaming in the ilelicious ozone and West Quoddy Light is saluted, its 
 striped sides standing in sharp contrast against the green background of 
 Quoddy Head ; a moment later our pilot directs, " North, northwest," 
 and a sharp turn discloses the southern entrance to Quoddy Roads, and 
 the fair village of Lubec, crowning a hiil, gleaming white in the sunlight. 
 
 On the right at close range is Campobello, that coveted spot of 
 many charms. At last we are at the " end of things," the extremity of 
 Uncle Sam's domain. It is not diflicult to realize the pilot's skill as we 
 note the tortuous course of the great steamer 'mid fish weirs, buoys, and 
 jutting points, till at last the Eubec narrows with its ferocious currents is 
 passed and the landing at Lubec reached. 
 
 One recognizes on coming out into Friar Roads, that lie just before 
 Lubec, what it is that attracts the hundreds, and is destined to call its 
 thousands to Passamaquoddy or " Quoddy " Bay, as it is more commonly 
 known. Its glistening waters are alive with schooners, trim yachts, busy 
 ferry steamers, and countless small craft of every kind ; islands float in 
 smiling content, revealing atween their evergreen summits distant glimp- 
 ses of mountain, and reaches of Quoddy Bay. 
 
 19 
 
» '^mt -aiiii^ijaA^ViririiiiiTi 'iwii- 1 lii 
 
 Mi 
 
 i:~ I 
 
 i I 
 
 I 1- 
 
 KASirokl - KKSOUIS ON THK IIAV - MKK(HNIilN(i 
 roWNS-CKANlt MANAN. 
 
 ■J' is (.■viilcnt Iniiii iIk- inoiiicnt o( arrival at Eastport lliat 
 it is an intcnsuly active and luistling town, a sort of 
 ( ondcnsed Yankct' land, inti-nsified as an object lesson 
 to our more easy-gonig Canadian neighbors. 'I'iiis 
 ,1^ being the very centre of the great Kastern resorts, the 
 ,1 ■ fotal point from whence tourists radiate to the score of 
 hotels and small towns that cater to stmimer travel, it is 
 (juite ai)propriate that it should receive first attention. 
 I'lie first thing that imjjresses a stranger (via his nostrils) is the herring 
 and sardine industries, whose i)acking houses line the water front, each 
 with its fishing boats in attendance. To be literal, the output of smoked 
 herring is two million boxes or more, and of canned sardines (so called), 
 three hundred thousand cases, of which the International freights the 
 major part. Wandering up from the landing tiirough the main street, 
 the evidences of the fire of 1887 are omnipresent in the new structures 
 bearing that date. 'I'he handsome new library building, erected by private 
 be(|uest recently, heading the list, the substanial granite government 
 building flanking the farther end. 'I'hroughout tlie town many (|uaint 
 old homesteads remain to keep alive the memory of the past, which for 
 its situation Eastport has little of importance to show. 
 
 it is to the hill back of the town and back of Fort Sullivan, where 
 now is placed the water tower, that the visitor's feet should turn, for it 
 is just here, if we mistake not, that all the matcliless beauty of the 
 Quoddy region unfolds itself as at no other point. The eager eye drinks 
 in a mosaic of land and water in every direction. Northward into the 
 heart of the St. Croix and the Chamcook Mountains ; easterly, upon the 
 fair bosom of Quodily Bay, set with a hundred isles ; easterly still and 
 southward across the noble mass of Campobello and old ocean ; still 
 farther, to Grand Manan, that lifts its purple wall along the horizon, — 
 
 ao 
 
(>rNiiiN(; 
 
 at Eastpoit tliat 
 town, a sort of 
 an object lesson 
 ji},'lil)ors. This 
 stum resorts, the 
 e to the score of 
 nnier travel, it is 
 ■ first attention, 
 s) is the herring 
 vater front, each 
 utpiit of smoked 
 lines (so called), 
 nal freights the 
 the main street, 
 new structures 
 reeled by private 
 lite government 
 .vn many (juaint 
 : past, which for 
 
 : Sullivan, where 
 louid turn, for it 
 s beauty of the 
 eager eye drinks 
 rthward into the 
 isterly, upon the 
 tjasterly still and 
 M ocean ; still 
 ; the horizon, — 
 

 -. - ^j^i^Qunn L'q^TPoRT'.j 
 
iMiSia^mtmm^mifm 
 
 
 1 ! 
 
 i ; 
 
 I ti 
 
 t 
 
 cvcrywlu'iv, in .ill iliiri ti(iii>. lu'w in\>Urii^ nl' l.uul .iml w.iut fii.y.i^t' 
 and I ,iiiii\,iti' the ItilmltUr. Tlii-. nulilr i'1h« I.iuiIm .ipi' i^ lrnl\ K.ist- 
 |Miil'i niii-t jiiii i()ii> li'^.ii \ . 
 
 "WiIMIk ri.iiiti'i- km« Imw Htriini;lv 
 WoiUs tliv fiiriii oil liiiiii.iii tlll>ll^l1l ; 
 I iiiii«r wliiil ^iinl iiiirpiiM' liiid 111' 
 'I'll (li.iw all l.iiii if^ 111 llii- -|nit." 
 
 .\> any ono will not in.' >\'>\\ lo discuvcr, Ka>>i|)()rt is on an islaiul, 
 MociM.' Wy naini. wliosc ( ()nnf<'ti(in with tlu' niainlanil is liy a bridge, 
 spanninji tiu' narmw sliiji ot" watfi' Howinj,' rmni ('olistuok liay, whirl), 
 with NW'st (Jiuiddy liay, ( om])lctL's tlu' cm iidin^,' nirdk'. Hourly 
 sloanicr (onncMtiun with ( 'anil Id! ii'llo. i.ulicc, and Ndrth l.nlitc. half as 
 olU'n with I'cnilirokc or Dcnnysv ilk', daily with St, Andrews, Koliliinston, 
 Calais, Cirand Manan, andSt. John, — what nu-rc enticing list of pleasure 
 trips ( onld one a>k? , 
 
 CAMPOBELLO, 
 
 being nearest, would naturally demand attention, its twin hotels of 
 a-sthetic Imild, T'yn-V-foed and Ty'n-V Mai's ("The house in the 
 wood" and "The house in the (lelil"), placed high on the hill, flanked 
 by the magnificent Friar's Head, and the .piaint settlement of Welsh- 
 pool. You will visit, of course, the old ( )wen Manor House, the home 
 of the Admiral iMt/.william ( )wcn, to whom the island was grantetl in 
 1767, and whose burial by candle-light in tiie tiny family chapel was the 
 fitting close to an eccentric life ; will then run over to the Friar's Head, 
 and across, by one of the most romantic bits of woodsy road in all 
 Canada, to the lovely Cove and Lake of C.len Severn, Harbor de Lute, 
 and among the hundreil aljiine paths that cover like network the stupentl- 
 ous Eastern Head. And then, our kindest service would be, to advise 
 a sojourn at the model hotels mentioned, allowing you to wander, tancy 
 free, in search of the numberless and ever-new retreats that cover this 
 Eden of an islan<l. Campobello is some eight miles loiig by three in 
 width, is iK)pulated by about twelve hundred souls, mostly fisher-folk, 
 many of whom retain the (juaint flavor of their Scotch and \Velsh 
 ancestors, and is owned princajially by an American stock company. 
 Mrs. Kate Ciannett Wells has written an api)reciative little book on the 
 island, and Arlcj Hales makes it the background for his story of " A Lad's 
 Love." 
 
 From its natural ramparts for-reaching and exhilarating views open 
 
 , .-at : . . '^^^"'' . .: " • ^ 
 
ind w.itiT I'li^.i^i' 
 ,i|ii' !•> truly K.inI- 
 
 t is on an islaiul, 
 i<l is !))• a hriilfif. 
 Itsrook May, wliidi, 
 ; ^irilli'. Ilimrly 
 nil) l,iil)c( . liair as 
 (Ircws, k(il)l)inst()n, 
 L-ing list of pleasure 
 
 its twin iu)tcls of 
 'I'lic iioiisc in tlic 
 jn the hill, flanked 
 •ttlLMuent of W'elsh- 
 r House, the home 
 land was granted in 
 iiily chapel was the 
 o the Friar's Head, 
 voodsy road in all 
 , Harbor de Lute, 
 stwork the stupend- 
 vould be, to advise 
 t)U to wander, fancy 
 reals that cover this 
 les long by three in 
 , mostly fisher-folk, 
 Scotch and \Velsh 
 an stock company, 
 e little book on the 
 s story of " A Lad's 
 
 arating views open 
 
T 
 
up, to landward and seaward, upon Quoddy's dancing, merry waters, 
 and St. Croix's sweeping course, while it would almost seem superfluous 
 to sjjeak of its wonderfully tonic air. 
 
 " Here as \vc mount and leave the coast below, 
 Lake leads to lake, sea opens into sea, 
 Great waters hidden in the land and linked 
 Together in a somiding labyrinth." 
 
 LUBEC. 
 
 The same stanch little steamer that plies to Cam])ol)ello also touches 
 at Lubec, where, as the reader will remember, the International steam- 
 ers make a landing at their new pier. This quaint and altogether 
 picturescjue village is also given up to fish and fishing, and smokes and 
 boils and oils its herring that come up in silvery basketfuls from the fish- 
 ing boats by her wharves right merrily. It is striking in perspective, it 
 is quite fascinating at short range, and, with its original characters, would 
 seem to be only waiting for the pen of Miss Jewett or Miss VVilkins. 
 
 Its history is quickly told ; having been set ajjart from Eastport in 
 1811, its setdement dating from about 1772 to 1780, and augmented by 
 accessions of citizens who objected to British rule, under which East- 
 port chafed till 1817. There are two comfortable hotels in the town, 
 and numerous private houses where summer guests are entertained. 
 
 Four objective points in Quoddy Bay region give typical and entirely 
 distinctive views. Of these, Lubec is one, from whose heights a less 
 extensive but thoroughly satisfying view in its unity and arrangement is 
 found. Looking northward, Eastport, with its huge water tower high 
 above it, slopes gracefully to the bay; beyond it the islands, Deer, 
 Indian, and Cherry, with the Canadian waters and mountains stretching 
 flirther away. On the right, Campobello. On the left, Cobscook Bay 
 leads the eye behind Ssw.ird Neck or North Lubec, and meanders for 
 
 24 
 
 ^Mn 
 
y:, merry waters, 
 jeni supertlnoiis 
 
 .*!Io also touches 
 rnational steam- 
 ami altogether 
 mi smokes and 
 from the fish- 
 perspective, it 
 laracters, would 
 ss Wilkins. 
 jm Eastport in 
 augmented l)y 
 er which East- 
 s in the town, 
 tertained. 
 cal and entirely 
 heights a less 
 arrangement is 
 ter tower high 
 islands. Deer, 
 lins stretching 
 Cobscook Hay 
 meanders for 
 
 many a mile ami many a reach to the towns of Pembroke, Dennysville, 
 and Whiting. Small craft can penetrate for eighteen miles inland, north, 
 west, or south, among curious intricacies of coast line. 
 
 One of the most interesting and instructive excursions from Lubec is 
 by carriage to West Quoddy Light, the most eastern in the States, sur- 
 rounded by magnificent coast scenery and surf effects. W'estward 
 some eighteen miles lies Cutler, with its summer colony. Northward, 
 by the bridge spanning a tiny inlet, or by the ferry-boats. North Lubec 
 is reached, notably a summer camp-ground, and site of the Ne-mat-ta- 
 no Hotel, the property of the New England Young Men's Christian 
 Associations and North Lubec Land Improvement Company, — an ideal 
 sjjot for its purpose, imder the fostering care of a Christian manage- 
 ment. 
 
 PEMBROKE, PERRY, DENNYSVILLE. 
 
 On the mainland, north of Cobscook Bay, reached by its penetrating 
 waters ami the small steamers that follow it as well as by road from East- 
 port and the towns of the St. Croix River, lay the peaceful and contented 
 villages above named ; the former being largest of the trio. It is 
 here one should wander when desiring perfect quiet and immunity from 
 social excitement. The delightful mingling of pastcral and maritime 
 occupations, in their appropriate and natural settings furnishes a sufficient 
 amusement for the idler, to which may be added the same host of 
 attractions before mentioned that offer themselves. 
 
 These towns are convenient to the beautiful roads that follow the St. 
 Croix, or penetrate to the woodsy shored lakes, Meddybemps, Magur- 
 rewok, Pennamaquan, and others of Indian tradition ; convenient also 
 to the network of bays and creeks, through which one may float or sail 
 with the favoring tides. Life among them is primitive and simple ; the 
 cost of a summer outing, therefore, small. 
 
 as 
 
■■ i.»i.-lL »A.-^Jii.d^m.t^-..^« V, Ma.-aM.)u.^^f^^^ -^^-^ ^ 
 
 ;i' 
 
 H' 
 
 
 ^RANdNANXN' 
 
 ALkoss THK i;av-ci.uis ok manan- 
 
 S A I. INK TVl'KS. 
 
 IKK tinto a might)- fortress is Craiid 
 Manan ! its inviilncraljle walls looming 
 purple in the distance. A name to con- 
 jure with, a spot fit for deeds of chivalry 
 antl daring, a challenge to the painter's 
 l)rush, an invitation to the naturalist, and 
 to the worn and jaded body a haven of 
 rest, home of the eagle and the gull, fog 
 factory for all Fundy and Ivistern Maine, 
 playground for nature's moods, unspoiled 
 l)y the conventions of modern summer 
 resorts, this remarkable island demands 
 attention. 
 
 Steamer " Flushing " lies at Kastport 
 on arrival of anti connecting with the 
 International steamers, and in a short 
 hour and a half lands passengers at Flagg's 
 Cove. 
 
 The trip is sure to arouse the enthu- 
 siasm of the most stolid, every mile of 
 approach revealing fresh details of the 
 stupendous cliffs that botmd its whole 
 northern side. The gray sails of the fish- 
 ing fleets stand forth in strong relief 
 against its sombre mass, and great clouds of spotless gulls swirl and float 
 above its inaccessible eyries. Perchance you may see the Indians who 
 dwell on Manan, |)erforniing their ingenious feat of shooting porpoises 
 from their birch canoes, as unconscious of danger as the gulls dancing 
 on the wave near l)y ! 
 
 26 
 
 ii. 
 
tJf^^iUamtatUtiM 
 
 N- 
 
 OK MANAN- 
 
 ortress is (Jrand 
 
 1)1l' walls hjoming 
 
 A name to con- 
 
 • deeds of chivalry 
 
 e to the painter's 
 
 the naturalist, and 
 
 i body a haven of 
 
 ■ and the gull, fog 
 
 ind Kastern Maine. 
 
 moods, imspoiled 
 
 modern summer 
 
 le island demands 
 
 " lies at Eastport 
 
 nnecting with the 
 
 and in a short 
 
 issengers at Flagg's 
 
 arouse the enthu- 
 lid, every mile of 
 :sh details of the 
 
 bound its whole 
 ay sails of the fish- 
 I in strong relief 
 ,nills swirl and float 
 e the Indians who 
 shooting porpoises 
 5 the gulls dancing 
 
 jsan 'iTm'.^-»:«i.- 1 
 
 -poUPojt Si« 
 
 ^Ji.' 
 
 A few little grt)Ups of silvery gray huts, built by daimtiess fishermen, 
 maj- be seen clinging to the bits of pebbly slKJ'e that here anti there 
 border some indenting cove, settlements full of picturesciueness, and — 
 ancient and fish-like smells. Al)out midway of the north shore is Indian 
 Head, the highest point on the island, and near it the curious little Dark 
 Harljor, separated by a sand bar or peblily dike from tiie ocean, which 
 rushes in through a narrow sluiceway, furnishing a natural traj) from 
 which the fisiiermen take vast (juantities of herring. Money Cove, a 
 little farther west, is another of the traditional haunts of Kidd ; poor 
 Captain Kidd, he did not believe in |)Utting his wealth all in one bank ! 
 On passing the fog station, wliich stands !;> ar a snug farm or two 
 adjoining the jagged bulwarks of 
 
 Northern Head, whose sliadow • '. .. -^ 
 
 actually crosses the deck as we 
 run close to shore, IJishoj) Rock 
 stands forth prominently from 
 the cliff, and just beyond lie the 
 ugly reefs of Pemberlon Point, 
 named after the noble vessel 
 that was driven to its doom here , 
 on a l)itter January night. A ' 
 moment later and a great wall —- 
 of vertical cliffs bursts on the 
 astonished beholder ; these (the 
 " Seven Days' Work" they are 
 called) give the first real glimpse 
 
 of Manan's strongest characteristics ; after them, the Swallow 'I ail Heatl, 
 which we round on coming into harbor, seems quite insignificant. 
 
 The impretentious hotel here offers comfortable entertainment, its 
 walls hung with souvenirs of the many artists who have frequented tiie 
 island for years past, its one-time mariner proprietor a mine of informa- 
 tion and entertainment. 
 
 It is not easy in a few lines to mention half the points of interest to 
 be seen. Suffice it to say no one should fail to visit the stupendous 
 basalt cliffs of Southern Head, which is reached by a three-hour sail or 
 drive and a few minutes' walk. Better yet, follow the entire shore from 
 Southern to Northern Head, with its constant surprises. The dense 
 woodland landscapes in the interior of the island, over which glimpses 
 of distant shore and water are caught, are stimulative and suggestive in 
 the highest degree, and to the true nature lover will \no\c one of the 
 strongest attractions. 
 
 27 
 
^. I 
 
 ( »nc shoiikl also cultivate the lisiicniR'H. saline t\|.es„r yivat Kem.iiu- 
 ness and (.li^inaiity, men wiiu have l.een attracted here partlv l.e( aiise 
 ol tlK- freedom from competition, possii.ly l.y the romantic nature of the 
 island itself. 
 
 I'he liKhthouse-keepersof theislan.l are men whom one wishes to 
 know, well informed, sagacious, full of sea yarns, and full of courtesy as 
 well. The one at Swallow Tail would attract attention anvwhere for his 
 splendid i.l,ysi,iue and military bearing. Horses are a rare beast on the 
 island, and, as some one has noted, you will be known l.y the animal 
 you drive, the horse serving as a letter of introduction wherever vou may 
 go. Potatoes seem to be about the only vegetable tliat is reasonably 
 successlul. which, with the varied species of fish, constitutes a novel and 
 i.alatable staple on the bill of fare. The numerous smaller islan.ls King 
 south and east have become noted as the resort of .Audubon, in iiis I'.ird- 
 stuilies of North .America. 
 
 
 \ 
 
 I 
 
 29 
 
i 
 
 ^r* 
 
 ^^*^-^ :-^^„,a^^ 
 
 iAAi 
 
 --■.■ili|.-Hifr.r^^^i.%t-:v-.^-^a^. , p^.^.-^„- 
 
 rcFirt rrtlUffiTI 
 
 WStsm 
 
 
 THE ST. CROIX. 
 
 ^^^^^ 
 
 ri' rill. sr. ( koix to sr. aniirkws- Kor.iiiNvrDN, 
 
 ( AI.AIS, ANII ST. MKI'HKN, 
 
 ^^ 
 
 f%. 
 
 --J 
 
 ^^ 
 
 
 M 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 Vri 
 
 
 H V fc J 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^^>My^ 
 
 
 ^JF* 
 
 </v^ 
 
 E have alivady foniid so imicli in this (lt.'lt.'(lal)lL' 
 rugiun, it would seem that it must he wcHnigh 
 exhausted. Far from it I St. Croix still remains ; 
 rich in lore, richer still in (harm of landscape and 
 water-scape, significant as the water boundary 
 between two i^reat powers. 
 
 At Eastport, again, one steps from the deck of 
 one steamer to that of another, well known in 
 Massachusetts waters, the " Rose Stamlish," of the Frontier Steamboat 
 Company. The course lies north by west l)etween the Jiritish islands, 
 Indian and Deer, on which is a consiilerable settlement of remnants of 
 the Quotldy Indians, opposed by Kendall Head and Pleasant Point on 
 our mainland. \ four-mile run brings us into the fair estuary of St. 
 Croix, and still fairer (Juoildy Hay, the na/ Quoddy, sweeping twenty 
 miles into the north, the river leading the eye even farther, to Oak Hay. 
 
 .'Vgainst the bold mounds of the Chamcooks is faintly seen a spire 
 or two, and on a hill still higher a castle-like building which grows in 
 prominence and detail as we approach, until recognizable as a summer 
 hotel of fine proportions and ample size. 
 
 It is the AlgoiKpiin, and the picturesciue town lying at its feet, with 
 its crumbling wharves and tiny lighthouse basking in the sunshine, is, as 
 you will guess, 
 
 * * 
 ST. ANDREWS. * 
 
 A sleepy old town it is, (juaint and self-satisfied, its streets laid out 
 with distressing regularity, but dotted here and there with relics of the 
 past, suggestive of colonial days and the Royalists who founded it. One 
 would naturally expect much of interest, historically, in this little town. 
 
 30 
 
mmm 
 
 ■(iiiP^ 
 
 »^;3ft-'^->?*f^,. ♦■ 
 
 
 NSTilN, 
 
 in this (Iflfctable 
 must he \vcllnij,'ii 
 !n)ix still remains ; 
 1 of lanilscapc and 
 ' water l)()un<larv 
 
 from the ileck of 
 r, well known in 
 rontier Steamboat 
 he liritish islands, 
 nt of remnants of 
 Pleasant Point on 
 air estuary of St. 
 , sweeping twenty 
 her, to Oak Hay. 
 lintly seen a spire 
 ng which grows in 
 '.able as a summer 
 
 ng at its feet, with 
 lie sunshine, is, as 
 
 s streets laid out 
 with relics of the 
 founded it. One 
 in this little town. 
 
i, . T"^TJV • Joe s ri. 
 
 So. 
 
 JpbbinstonA 
 

 P ZLj^.Robbinsron*"""'"^^^ 
 
' II M\,»} if ^ ii^ffH0m*mmmmmmmim<m 
 
 •m 
 
 , 
 
 / 
 
 but will be disappointed. It was once quite a slii])ping port, but otiicr 
 cities seem to have stolen its prestige awa\'. 
 
 Its principal stock in trade at present is its marvellously pure and 
 dry atmosphere, of which there is an inexhaustible supply of the jjurest 
 and tlriest kind. Gen. Greely is (|Uoted as ample authority in this ccm- 
 nection ; his reports showing that curiously enough, small areas, at the 
 extreme southwestern and northeastern limits of our coimtry, possess the 
 most jierfect climatic- conditions, a mean summer temperature of 6.S", 
 and an atmosphere remarkably free from humidity. This is quite note- 
 worthy, considering the close proximity of Grand Manan and its 
 reputation. 
 
 Another and eciually desirable article is its pictures(iue environment. 
 — I'assamaquoddy, beautiful Chamcook Mountains, and no less beautiful 
 Chamcook Lake, among the mountains and flowing into the bay by a 
 short stream. 
 
 It is characteristic of American enterprise that the St. Andrews Land 
 Company should have selected this particular place for improvement, 
 should have erected on one of the four hills mentioned previously as 
 view points of this region the splendid hotel, known everywhere as " The 
 Alg6n<iuin," a house of perfect appointments, and having that enviable 
 reputation of st/cicss, five seasons of " ten strikes " as a hotel man 
 expressed it ! 
 
 Good roads reach inland, fine bathing near at hand, fresh and salt 
 water recreations, mountain climbing, and e%'ery possible out-of-door 
 sport are the fitting accompaniment of this ideal resort. " Immunity 
 from hay fever " is the legend, par excellence, inscribed on its card ! 
 
 From St. Andrews, running out under the striking headland of Joe's 
 Point, another excellent observation point of the town, the steamer 
 immediately enters St. Croix River proper, the little town of Robbinston 
 on the opposite bank laying snugly and comfortably under the protect- 
 ing shoulder of an evergreen ridge, which runs out and abruptly drops 
 into the river just above. 
 
 ROBBINSTON. 
 
 Not a village of any great importance, nor with any especial historic 
 significance that we could discover, but certainly a very attractive and 
 typically American town, with a few of the omnipresent sardine factories, 
 and a sort of hands-in-the-pockets air, that is very inviting to one who 
 seeks to "loaf and invite his soul," Whitman would say. There is all 
 the fishing one could ask for, of every kind, salt or fresh, with some of the 
 
 31 
 
 'I 
 
i i 
 
 5* .i. ! 
 
 wn pn I 
 
 !T» en 
 
 m 
 
 \Er, 
 
 'm 
 
 I :4^ 
 
 m-f-jk 
 
 r-1-m-z 
 
 ~^-^i 
 
most cxiiuisite drives along the river and inland to be founil anywhere 
 in the region. An artist is naturally a little tastiflioiis in matters 
 pictures! |ue, and from his point of view there is no jilace to compare 
 with little Rohbinston from which to study the varying moods of the 
 Chamcook range or the dreamy perspectives of the river. Certain it is, 
 many have summered there, and a more enthusiastic lot of missionaries 
 for it could scarce be found 1 
 
 Rohbinston may |)roperly claim as its own the intensely interesting 
 annals belonging to this immediate vicinity, of which Doucet's or 
 "Dochet's " Island, three miles above, is the i'/>ifi>mt\ 
 
 It is just here that Acadia, by the hands of Champlain and the 
 Sieur de Monts, began its history, when in 1604 they planted a colony 
 and a garden, on this speck of dirt. In sjiite of Gen. Greely's asser- 
 tions as to climate, the garden proved a failure, winter came, and with it 
 suffering and absolute isolation from the land, so near at hand ; sickness 
 and death did their work, and spring saw the remnants fleeing to Port 
 Royal. 
 
 Champlain's faithful 
 pen picture did not pre- 
 vent acontinuous bound- 
 ary dispute, for not till 
 1 796 did a commission 
 discover the " Isle of 
 Champlain," the St. 
 Croix of the discoverers, 
 and the true boundary 
 of Acadia. It is in- 
 teresting, then, as we 
 steam up river to look 
 upon the little island mid-stream, with its history fresh in the mind, its 
 sole resident, the lightkeei)er, in his white tower, with his cow, his garden 
 (which yields), and the miniature forest at its edge. 
 
 This may be a proper time to mention briefly a few of the names 
 that will figure in our narrative, and serve to keep in mind in outline the 
 later history of Acadia. Next, then, is Fort Royal, with La Tour's set- 
 tlement at St. John across the bay, Fort Cumberland near Amherst, 
 Windsor in mid Nova Scotia, and Louisburg in Cape Breton. 
 
 Beyond Doucet's Island, the stupendous summit of Devil's Head, 
 bristling with lance-like forests, exchanges frowns with Chamcook hills 
 opposite, and marks with decision a sharp turn in the river, as well as 
 the entrance of fair Oak Bay. It is the formation of the waters just 
 
 i 
 
 Zi 
 
K i i8 i«i *a^gaisr-r ». ii' virm -t itt 
 
 Hsaa 
 
 inf. 
 
 named into the semblance of a cross that gave to the French a name for 
 the river, 'rnrning the corner under the green-hlack head, the course 
 changes to northwest, and the shores narrow very perceptibly. 'l"he 
 lighthouses of Spruce and Nfark Points, set with their forest background, 
 resemble playthings, and recall the " Noah's ark " period of our baby- 
 hood I 
 
 Uald Head, on the Canadian side, overlooks some ])retty farms and a 
 tiny hamlet called '• 'The Ledge." 
 
 A |)astoral and thrifty-looking landscape bortlers the stream as we 
 api)roach Calais and St. .Stephen, where every suggestion is of lumber. 
 luml)ering. and imnufactures, which will explain very adequately the 
 existence of such a considerable city. ' 
 
 m 
 
 CALAIS. 
 
 Ciood hotels, attractive streets, fine churches, and a gem of a library 
 make Calais, with its activity and eight thousand residents, the most im- 
 portant town on our eastern boundary, the " border city," if yon please, 
 of the Pine Tree State. Its village green or common is one of the most 
 charming we have ever seen, lined with conservative and comfortable- 
 looking mansions of a good old age. Howells might find here a bit of 
 his .\ltruria, for Calais and St. Stephen refused to ([uarrel during the 
 international disputes of 1812, so closely are their social and commercial 
 interests united. To be sure, a customs official is stationed at either end 
 of the covered bridge between them, and sonwtimcs looks into your grip, 
 but the many little smuggling incidents are regarded more a., a joke than 
 an offence evidently ! As Calais is the head of navigation, so is it the 
 beginning of a water-power on the St. Croix. At Milltown, just above, 
 extensive lumber mills fill the air with the sound of buzzing saws, the 
 savory odor of green sawdust, and turn out finished lumber by the 
 million feet, the raw material coming from the Grand Lake region beyond 
 Princeton, to which point extends a railway, and the unmeasured forests 
 along the rivers tril)Utary to it and the St. Croix. There is still good 
 fishing among these tributary waters of the Grand or " Schoodic " Lakes, 
 the lower or " big " lake containing pickerel, which of course have driven 
 out finer species, and the upper or Grand Lake and its stream, brook 
 and lake trout and land-locked salmon. It is of the smaller lakes north- 
 westerly that best results may be expected, for which Indian guides a 
 plenty are available at Princeton. Edward A. Samuels may be quoted 
 as having had " great fishing " in these waters. 
 
 Aside from the lumber industry, quarrying is of some little import- 
 
 34 • ' 
 
-■ l'"rcncli a name tor 
 ( k head, the course 
 ,■ perceptibly. The 
 r forest l)a(kgroiin(l. 
 ])erio(l of our haby- 
 
 .' pretty farms and a 
 
 rs the stream as we 
 sstion is of huiil)er. 
 ery adequately the 
 
 1 a gem of a library 
 idents, the most im- 
 :ity," if you please, 
 1 is one of the most 
 e and comfortable- 
 it find here a bit of 
 quarrel during the 
 ial and commercial 
 tioned at either end 
 ooks into your grip, 
 iiore a.i a joke than 
 igation, so is it the 
 :illto\vn, just above, 
 f buzzing saws, the 
 led lumber by the 
 [^ake region bejond 
 unmeasured forests 
 There is still good 
 ' Schoodic " Lakes, 
 " course have driven 
 1 its stream, brook 
 smaller lakes north- 
 ch Indian guides a 
 lels may be quoted 
 
 some little import- 
 
 ance, the red granite of Red Ileach, which we passed near Doucet's 
 Island, anil of the St. (leorge quarries being quarried by companies 
 located here. 
 
 ST. STEPHEN. 
 
 What is said of Calais is also ])ra( ticauy true of this border town of 
 New linmswick, with the exception of its pojiulation, which is some 
 three or lour thousand less. In addition it has a large cotton mill, and 
 also railway connection with the outer world ; with St. John by the Shore 
 line, with the vast areas of Northern Maine and New IWunswick and 
 Quebec by the Canadian Pacific, St. .Andrews to the south, as well. Il 
 would be a (juite uni)ar(lonal)le error to leave this corner of New llruns- 
 wick without a glimpse of the wild beauties of 
 
 LAKE UTOPIA AND FALLS OF ST. GEORGE, 
 
 which lie some thirty miles eastwaril. This lake is especially rich in its 
 color variety, the bold ledges of red granite throwing up huge towers 
 from the forests, or reflecting themselves in the dancing waters below, 
 proilucing effects that are uni(iue and striking in the extreme. The lake 
 flows through a small outlet into the river Magaguadavic, near the station 
 of same name on the New Brunswick Railway, and tUlwiu-liis into 
 Passamatpioddy at St, CJeorge, rushing between narrow walls, forming a 
 cascade of great splendor. The Magaguadavic, also reached by small 
 steamers and boats from Eastport and vicinity, has been of late a favor- 
 ite excursion of its denizens. For more than a century after the Doucet's 
 Island incitlent this stream was accepted as the St. Croix, and christened 
 such with the crucifix of the Jesuit explorers, until the discovery as 
 mentioned by the boundary commission of conclusive evidence to the 
 contrary. The pretty town of St. Cleorge, of some four thousand popu- 
 lation, just here, is engaged in lumbering and tpiarrying, and proves a 
 convenient stopping place for fishermen of Lake Utopia, where good 
 trout fishing is assured. 
 
 Returning again to our starting point at Eastport, let us continue 
 onward again toward that Ultima Thule of our travels, 
 
 "EASTWARD AGAIN." 
 
 On steaming out from Eastport between East Quoddy or Head 
 Harbor Light on one hand, and Deer Island on the other, one is intro- 
 
 35 
 

 '^-^.': ■■^'' f" 
 

«'4T«Y m 
 
(lured forinally to the Hay ot' Fiiiuly, that irri'itrcssiUlc luxly of water lliat 
 Ih at OIK e the terror an<l ileliKlu of tlie lieliolder. Of course, every one 
 who has Icmied his j^eograiihy lesson knows about tlie "tides of Kinidy," 
 tl\at ( hnili thirty Icet more or less lwi( e a day nearly the year rounil, 
 and create or wipe out whole river systems with each ebb and (low. Its 
 impetuous currents ( rowd in by F-ast (Juoddy as ti)ounii hunj;ry for the 
 land whose estuaries and streams it fills so nobly. The view from this 
 point takes on an entirely new and ( haracteristic llavor ; ac ross the 
 yellow-green and llashing expanse of the l»ayloom Grand Manan and the 
 wooded, savage-looking islands, the "Wolves"; to landward. Passama- 
 (|uoddy's gateway and hundred islets ; while New Hrunswick's shores lift 
 their jagged and ruddy headlands against an everchanging and undulat- 
 mg wall of mountain blue. 
 
 It is just here that the key is found to the peculiar geological forma- 
 tions of lower i\'ew Hrunswic k. 
 
 From Chamcook Mountains at St. Andrews to a point beyond St. 
 John extenil the rugged walls of what geologist^ assure us is a spur of 
 the .Alleghany Mountains, of distinctly volcanic character, ctmiposed of 
 trap rock, with feldspar, basalt, porphyry, greenstone trap and the like, 
 whose jjractical value is demonstrated in the numerous granite and 
 gypsum <|uarries. A glance at the map shows this same marked north- 
 easterly trend in all the maritime ranges, — the <:liffs of Manan, North 
 and South Mountains, and Cobequid's range in Nova Scotia, the grand 
 hills of Cape Breton, and the Northern New Hrunswick mountains as 
 well, that end so strikingly at Bay Chaleur. 
 
 The variety of color along the entire shore of Fundy is particularly 
 noticeable, al)ounding in deep reds contrasted with purplish grays, with 
 here and there a splash of white, where the veins of gypsum crop out. 
 After passing Point Lepreaux and its banded lighthouse, flanked by 
 Mace's Bay and Dipper Harbor, comes the first intimation of our 
 approach to St. John, when Partridge Island, which guards the harbor, 
 stands out from the ha/y distance, almost immediately followed by the 
 clustering houses of Carleton, with the ancient martello tower high above 
 it, relieved against the sky ; the long gray wall of the breakwater extend- 
 ing far out from the shore ; and finally, the picturesque beacon in mid- 
 harbor gleaming white before the city walls. Every one must be struck 
 by the extremely effective grouping of the city of St. John, its Gothic 
 spires clustered on the hilltop, and solid commercial buildings sloping 
 toward the water, where a perfect forest of shipping is gathered from 
 every corner of the earth ; the mystery is, how so many vessels can be 
 accommodated in so small a harbor. 
 
 37 
 
 J- 
 
'I ' 
 
 THE RIVER VOYAGE -FREnERICTON- 
 (iRAND KAI.I.S- UPPER RIVER. 
 
 F New Brunswick, the first city, of Canadian shipown- 
 ing cities also the first, with a population of some 
 fifty thousand, and a history dating from the early 
 seventeenth century, St. John is not distinctively 
 English or, intleed, Canadian, in its characteristics 
 or outward ai)pearance. It is even denominated the 
 American city, in contrast with Halifax, which is quite English ; but for 
 all that, the visitor from " the States " finds much that i;. new to him in 
 the minor details of life, perhaps nowhere so markedly as in the uni- 
 versal courtesy of its people, of whatever class, and the good quality of the 
 language one hears everywhere, not alone here, but throughout English- 
 speaking Canada. 
 
 There are a great number of hotels in St. John, — a fact which is true 
 of nearly all Provincial cities. There are also among them some very 
 comfortable ones. 
 
 Your " Appleton " or "Ticknor ' will direct you, first of all, very 
 properly, to see tho falls and graceful suspension bridge, which are the 
 great " show pieces" of the town. St. John can boast of at least one 
 novelty without duplicate, — the "reversible fall," as it has been happily 
 called, — a phenomenon for which the Fundy tides are responsible. 
 Novel, indeed, it is to behold a vast torrent of water flowing through a 
 
' Canaiiian shipown- 
 popiilation of some 
 ting from the early 
 is not distinctively 
 n its characteristics 
 en denominated the 
 ite English ; l)iU for 
 liat io new to him in 
 :edly as in the uni- 
 s good quality of the 
 :hroughout English- 
 
 a fact which is true 
 )ng them some very 
 
 u, first of all, very 
 idge, which are the 
 jast of at least one 
 it has been happily 
 es are responsible, 
 r flowing through a 
 
 narrow, rocky passage toward the sea ; halt an hour later a i)lacid stream 
 upon which laden vessels come and go ; yet another half-hour tiie same 
 turbulent waters again, but rushing in the opposite direction ! Wonder- 
 fully fascinating is this tidal freak, as the writer can testify after having 
 spent a half-day studying its moods and caprices. Here, in the winter of 
 1S93, was witnessed one of those tragedies more dramatic than fiction. 
 The ferryman, who for years had safely piloted human freight, who half 
 a score of times risked his own life to rescue othci,^ from this treacherous 
 maelstrom, in sleet and storm himself was swept heljjlessly into eternity. 
 From the banks of the river on the Carleton siile, near the bridge, 
 and a hundred feet and more in air, is obtained a striking and effective 
 view of the distant city, the scores of lumber mills and yards that line 
 the river just here, and mid-stream the island where that plucky bit of 
 femininity, Madame La Tour, held the fort of her lord against the 
 
 assaulting forces of D'Aulnay. Those were stormy times, indeed ! when 
 feudalism, transplanted to the wilds of the New World, mingled with the 
 savage strife of the red man, St. John's architecture is well worthy of 
 attention, notably the fine residential portion about King's Square, and 
 the new banks of New Brunswick and Montreal, City Hall and Custom 
 House, the latter, with fully a third of the city, built since the great fire 
 
 of 1877. 
 
 The English Church service is finely rendered in several churches, 
 especially so at beautiful Trinity, while the chanting at the " Old Stone 
 Church " at head of Germain Street is quite exceptional. The 
 
 39 
 
•at'itdPtfTt' 
 
 r 
 
 '#^ 
 
 many hills about the city afford fine vantage points for views. From 
 Fort Howe on Portland Heights is altogether the most striking one, the 
 harbor and city, the grand expanse of Fundy, as well as the charming 
 landscape lying back of the ridge. From the ancient martello .ower in 
 Carleton also a glorious view is unfolded of the bay, the coast east and 
 west, as also the environs of St. John. 
 
 The business interests centre around the shipping, as one might 
 imagine ; lumber in vast quantities from the river country northward is 
 exported, lime is also an important item when trade relations are favora- 
 ble with the States. Naturally this is a trade centre for all Central and 
 Southern New Brunswick, and the types of lumberman, Indian, farmer, 
 or fisherman that one often meets are striking and picturesque to a degree. 
 
 Of course no one would think of leaving St. John without first taking 
 the charming steamer trip to Fredericton up the river, nor any less the 
 
 trossach-like waters of Kennebecasis River. When one does leave, there 
 is always the choice of following the Intercolonial Railway to the eastern 
 Provinces, Prince Edward or Cape Breton Islands, or of crossing the 
 bay to the land of Evangeline, Annapolis Valley, and Halifax by the Bay 
 of Fundy Line. 
 
 RIVER ST. JOHN. 
 
 While very charming and soothing in its pastoral meanderings, it is 
 a trifle far fetched to call this stream the "Rhine of America." To say 
 that a river has an individuality and charm all its own is the greatest 
 praise one can bestow. It seems that this can be said very truthfully, in 
 that the St. John cannot be compared to any other. If the valley of the 
 Annapolis is the "garden of Nova Scotia," then is this also the garden of 
 New Brunswick, and a very large garden at that. 
 
 40 
 
 ssswf<n!W!Ksw«- ~«i^iR{-- ■■'r^mgsseftffimm^m^gsmmmmem^s^^smBsm^imsmma 
 
i for views. From 
 ist striking one, the 
 ?11 as the charming 
 It martello .ower in 
 the coast east and 
 
 )ing, as one might 
 )untry northward is 
 eiations are favora- 
 for ail Central and 
 lan, Indian, farmer, 
 iresque to a degree, 
 without first taking 
 ?r, nor any less the 
 
 e does leave, there 
 way to the eastern 
 )r of crossing the 
 ■lalifax by the Bay 
 
 meanderings, it is 
 merica." To say 
 i^n is the greatest 
 very truthfully, in 
 f the valley of the 
 also the garden of 
 
 Leaving the quaint landing at Indiantown, just above the bridge and 
 falls, the comfortable steamers of the Star Line push out and against a 
 strong tide, under the towering cliffs that flank the narrow passage, past 
 the gray lime-kilns and lumber mills that cling to their sides, sharply 
 rounding a jutting ledge, then turning again till her course lies about 
 northwest. Nature has been very accommodating to her dependents 
 hereabouts, where the waste from the sawmill can be immediately utilized 
 in heating the kiln, the kiln in turn receive its raw material from the 
 gypsum cliffs overshadowing it, and immediately transfer the finished 
 product to the hold of the schooner which lies alongside, and is swept 
 out by the tide to an open sea and the ports of the world. 
 
 Having shaped our course northwest, and left behind the narrow 
 gateway to the Grand Bay, which opens here, and leads the delighted 
 eye for ten miles over its smiling surface, to rolling hills and fair farms, 
 which line the banks here on either side. On the immediate right- 
 hand shore, standing defiantly at the entrance to Kennebecasis Bay, is 
 Boar's Head, its bristly summit justifying ivs name. Geologists explain 
 that the river in prehistoric times founa the sea by two channels, 
 one through the South Bay over on our left, the other, via Kennebecasis' 
 loveb' reach and the valley between St. John City and Portland's Heights. 
 The last-mentioned bay, as described elsewhere, is in picturesque charms 
 fully up to the promise it gives as seen from the steamer's deck. 
 
 The river craft encountered on this tidal lake upon which we are 
 sailing is entertaining and even amusing to a great degree, for it is not 
 uncommon to meet or pass here a half-dozen or more schooners of 
 varied model and rig, some in tow and some under sail ; old relics in 
 the way of steamers wheezily tugging long rafts of logs from the upper 
 river, with now and then a hay barge lazily sauntering down with the 
 tide, and half a score of tugs and pleasure craft that are always in 
 attendance upon such a nautical assembly as we have mentioned. 
 
 The Star Line thoughtfully issues a very good outline map of the 
 river from its mouth to Fredericton. With this in hand one can locate 
 every detail of the picturesque trip. The names are more interesting 
 and surprising than those of a directory. The every-day names of the 
 farmers or early settlers are offset by the wild Indian nomenclature, 
 furnishing such morsels for ihe tongue as Washademoak, Musquash, 
 Nashwaak, Otnabog, and others. 
 
 We find on our map as souvenirs of a former visit to Fredericton and 
 the voyage thereto many shorthand notes and hieroglyphics which we 
 venture to interpret for the reader. At the head of the Grand Bay is 
 a most attractive little hotel and cluster of cottages, known as Belyea's, 
 
 41 
 
 miitimimmmtSmM 
 
iti 
 
 a resort of many St. John people, and, we are told, a very comfortable 
 nook for a summer rest. It is just here the river makes another turn 
 and a great sweep directly northeast, revealing the "Long Reach," with 
 its new variety of scene, bold hills and golden marshes alternatin;,'. The 
 tiny white lighthouse at lielyea's places itself, with almost conscious 
 effect, very sketchably in front of the noble " Devil's Back, ' though why 
 the devil got his back up so high as four hunilred and fifty feet is not 
 explained ! That dark person is resjionsible for some very striking scenic 
 effects, here as elsewhere. 
 
 The eight landings between Kelyea's and Sterret's are not all landings 
 so it would ap|)ear, for the interesting method of leaving mails or passen- 
 gers obviates that formality ; here, the signal from steamer calls from 
 the shore a wherry or rowboat, which draws uj) by the slowing steamer, a 
 folding pair of steps is dropped, the transfer is made, and we are on our 
 way in a moment. This is only one of many primitive and quaint 
 customs met with all the way of the journey. Cireenwich Hill or Pitts' 
 Landing is another spot to lure a saunterer. Oak Point, with its "grassy 
 island " floating on the full stream, is cjuite characteristic of the river. 
 The " Mistake " is best explained by the pilot who has sailed three 
 miles behind its marshy point only to retrace his course again. The 
 glimpses both fore and aft, at this point, are es|>ecially pleasing, not to 
 say beautiful. The course now changes to north, the river narrowing 
 and growing more and more tortuous, threading its way among islands, 
 and bouniled continuously by the most exquisite hill slopes, whose 
 generous sides are spread with fertile fields of vari-colored produce, the 
 fruit of the hajjpy farmers who are so fortunate as to possess them. The 
 landscape is decidedly English in flavor, and i)erhaps justifies the 
 enthusiastic native in his highly colored comparisons. 
 
 Long Island, just above, is ty|)ical of all the islands in the river, a 
 broad intervale, with here and there a gray barn for its crops, and many 
 a graceful elm, so suggestive of our New England villages, bordered by 
 luxurious growths of willow, birch, and alder, whose waving branches cast 
 cool reflections below. This island marks the entrance to the Washa- 
 ilemoak, a river that is more lake than river for thirty miles of its 
 course ; a very " ducky " looking spot it is, which guess is well verified 
 by the game bags that come out of it in the fall. After tying a few 
 knots about the islands, the steamer touches at Gagetown, actually 
 touches, and ties up at this lethargic spot, where there is 
 
 " Nothing coining, nothing going, 
 Locusts grating, one cock crowing, 
 , Few things moving up or clown, 
 All things drowsy — Drowsytown." 
 42 
 
 
 >i.- 
 
1, a very comfortable 
 makes another turn 
 'Long Reach," with 
 es alternatin .5. Thie 
 h ahiiost conscious 
 1 Back, ' though why 
 and fifty feet is not 
 .' very striking scenic 
 
 > are not all landings 
 ing mails or passen- 
 
 steamer calls from 
 e slowing steamer, a 
 ;, and we are on our 
 rimitive and quaint 
 enwich Hill or Pitts' 
 oint, with its "grassy 
 teristic of the river, 
 ho has sailed three 
 course again. The 
 ially pleasing, not to 
 the river narrowing 
 ; way among islands, 
 ! hill slopes, whose 
 olored produce, the 
 possess them. The 
 erhaps justifies the 
 >ns. 
 
 lands in the river, a 
 its crops, and many 
 dllages, bordered by 
 vaving branches cast 
 ance to the Washa- 
 
 thirty miles of its 
 juess is well verified 
 . After tying a few 
 Gagetown, actually 
 re is 
 
 % i 
 
J^^ 
 
 ;^"i3''Jori]fJ. ?yrtr. 
 

 "-vmmam>- 
 
 Oppositf is (Irimross Island, the mouth of Grand Lake, which stretches 
 away northward for forty miles, and the site of ancient Jemseg. Here, 
 in 1640, the French pioneers built their fort, which the English, of 
 course, captureil a little later, andtossed back again in 1670. Under 
 Villel)on it became a consideraljle settlement, the capitrl, indeed, of 
 Acadia ; a few irregular mounds, only, now remain to keej) alive its 
 ancient name. 
 
 The character of the land here is like all that lies above for thirty 
 miles, — flat, productive, and rather uninteresting from a scenic point of 
 view, after the variety and contrast of the lower river. Passing Sheflield, 
 Maugerville, Oromocto, and Oromocto River, whose upper waters 
 abound in trout, the lower in pickerel, the land of logs is reached, and 
 " Glaziers," where rafts are composed from the great booms on every 
 hand, and towed down stream. Here one sees the long- pointed bayous 
 or "dug-outs," of the lumbermen, the raft huts and curious stern- 
 wheelers of the upper river, and catches refreshing sniffs of the odor 
 from new lumber, that leaves a narrow passage only for the steamer as it 
 threads its way and brings into view the spires of lovely Fredericton. 
 
 ■1. 
 
 FREDERICTON. 
 
 It is doubtful if in all the Provinces there is a more delightful town 
 than Fredericton, — city, we should say. The impression first received is 
 abundantly confirmed by closer acquaintance. Its streets are beautiftiUy 
 laid out, shaded generously by the American elms that grow so prodi- 
 gally all through the valley, its public, educational, and ecclesiastical 
 buildings are numerous and especially handsome. Its hotels are well- 
 nigh perfect ; and a charming environment ot natural beauty combined 
 with numerous avenues of access and egress make it in all ways goodly 
 to look upon. 
 
 It is the centre of a vast farming country, the distributing point for 
 great lumber tracts, the centre of numerous rail lines, a noted cotton 
 manufacturing town, and the seat of Provincial government, as well as 
 normal school, university, and militia. The social atmosphere is naturally 
 of a high order, and a generally progressiva idea seems to pervade the 
 residents. ** 
 
 Points of especial note are the New Brunswick University, crowning 
 the hill west of the town, and commanding a matchless panorama of 
 river scenery for miles in three directions; the village of Gibson, a 
 model manufacturing community, founded and supported by the sagacity 
 
 44 
 
kf, which stretches 
 ;nt Jemseg. Here. 
 :h the P^nglish, of 
 n in 1670. Under 
 capital, indeed, of 
 rj to keep alive its 
 
 es above for thirty 
 m a scenic point of 
 Passing Sheffield, 
 nose upper waters 
 ogs is reached, and 
 it booms on every 
 )ng- pointed bayous 
 and curious stern- 
 snifis of the odor 
 or the steamer as it 
 'elv F'redericton. 
 
 lore delightful town 
 lion first received is 
 reets are beautifully 
 hat grow so prodi- 
 , and ecclesiastical 
 Is hotels are well- 
 al beauty combined 
 in all ways goodly 
 
 istributing point for 
 ;s, a noted cotton 
 jrnment, as well as 
 osphere is naturally 
 ;nis to pervade the 
 
 niversity, crowning 
 chless panorama of 
 lage of Gibson, a 
 ted by the sagacity 
 
 of Alexander dibson ; the site of the ancient stockade of Villebon, 
 dating back to 1692, and directly opposite the city ; and the < urious 
 little settlement of Mulecile Indians at St. Mary's. The frequent 
 reveilles and bugle calls from the barracks on the public sipwre give a 
 touch of militarism that is (|uite in keei)ing with the (juaint surroundings. 
 The beautiful little Anglican cathedral is a model of (;othi(; archi- 
 tecture, antl every one expresses surprise at the abundance of tine build- 
 ings generally. The piscatorially inclined will fnnl here a good outfitter 
 and rod maker, and across the river the veteran canoe builder, Jim 
 Paul, known through all the Province. 
 
 The tourist here makes choice of returning to St. John by rail, of 
 continuing on by the curious " stern-wheelers " (if it be high water) to 
 Woodstock, of branching off by rail along the wilds of the Miramichi to 
 Newcasde, there meeting the Intercolonial Line, or of continuing north 
 by rail to Woodstock, the regions of wild Tobiipie, mentioned elsewhere, 
 or the sublime scenery of Clrand Falls and the upper St. John. The 
 scenery along the upper river is varied by many rugged jjeaks and wooded 
 hills, attaining its greatest novelty at the mouth of the Pokiok River, the 
 outlet of Lake St. George, where a wild cascade comes tearing through 
 rocky walls for several hundred feet. At Canterbury is the portage to 
 Chiputneticook lakes and the St. Croix, at Kent a portage to Miramichi's 
 waters, and at Andover the headquarters for canoeists about to take the 
 Tobique trip. 
 
 GRAND FALLS. 
 
 The concentration of grandeurs and picturesqueness is most em- 
 phatically here, where all the pent-up aggregations of a thousand wild 
 streams leap through strong walls to dash in a great cloud of spray on the 
 bowlders below. It is a spectacle worthy of the noble river St. John, 
 worthy of the journey hither to witness, worthy of a more facile pen than 
 ours to describe. The fall is a perpendicular one of seventy-three feet, 
 and is set in a landscape of peculiar effectiveness, dull rocks and deep 
 evergreens everywhere making a contrast to its flashing lights. The 
 gorge below, through which the river rushes in ceaseless turmoil, is 
 marked by many curious evidences of the torrent's power, — the 
 " Coffee Mill " beside the channel grinding eternally, the " Wells," worn 
 drill-like into the ledge, and finally, the huge basin at the lower end 
 receiving the troubled waters into its placid depths. 
 
 The little village of Grand Falls is a study in itself; the quaint hotel, 
 
 45 
 
wliic h. Ity tlic way, is coniroit.ililc if ynii i arc to tarry, the iimsy l>\it 
 hniail strri't < DiiiU'ctinj,' railway and catarai t, anil a liL'tiTogcni-oiis |)()|i- 
 iilition (if Imlian, I'lvm li. and ddiilitt'iil kinds, who (an turn their hands 
 to several callinj^s. t'roni wood-i hopiiinu to ( anoeinj;. A two hours' ride 
 by the Canadian I'acit'ic and Riviere dii Limp is reached, with thej,'reat 
 reso'-tsof the St. Lawrence near at hand,.nid tiie inii(|ue antl pirtn!es(iiie 
 lite of tlie iMench habitat in thi>-. hit of new l-'raiiie ; if desiralile. a 
 thoroughly di'lij^htl'iil round tri|) to Momton or St. John can be made, 
 alonj; the ^reat river of C'anaila and tliroiit,'h the heart of the ^reat fish- 
 ing country of New IJrunswick. 
 
 The reader may be reminded that abo\e and westward the waters of 
 St. John reach their octojiusdike arms for two hundred miles and more, 
 interlaiing with those of l'enol)scot, Kennei)ec, and the lakes of .Nfaiiii-'s 
 wilderness; that not so very far away the head waters of famous 
 Restigouche almost intermingle witii its own, and the Lake Madawaska 
 emjities its full cii|) into the gathering currents. To Iiim who has tired 
 of the unrealities of the urban life, these invitations of the woods and 
 stream that speak on every hand come like a revelation of a purer life ; 
 let him take to his bircii an<l grasp tiie yielding jjaddle. 
 
 46 
 
ic prosy but 
 ,'i'iK'cins |>o|)- 
 
 II tlu'ir liands 
 () lidiirs' ride 
 vith the great 
 1 |)irtiirc'S(iiie 
 
 (Ifsiral)lc'. a 
 
 III l)f made, 
 ic great tlsli- 
 
 tlie waters of 
 's and more, 
 .'s of >raiiie's 
 < of famous 
 Madawaska 
 ilio has tired 
 ; woods and 
 a purer life ; 
 
 
 THE Tolin^tUE-MIKAMUm- KKSTICdll UK AND JAKJlEr. 
 KISII ANI> CAMK LAWS. 
 
 "( )li, the I)iave fisher's life, 
 1 1 Is tliu liLsl i)f aiiv, 
 'T is full iif pleasure, void of stiifr, 
 And 't is beloved of many ; 
 Other joyes 
 Are but toyes, 
 duly this 
 , Lawful is, 
 
 For our skill 
 Urceds no ill. 
 Hut content and i)leasure." 
 
 Walton. 
 
 HK Hterature of the piscatorial art, from Walton 
 down, is exceedingly good reading. Iviually 
 true is it, tiiat the ways of the fisherman are 
 " ways of jiieasantness, and all his jiatlis are 
 ])eace." Pisces leads him through nature's 
 choicest jiaths and byways, close to nature's 
 heart. Tiie writer makes some huml)lj; preten- 
 sions as a disciple of Walton, so it \%Qoii anion- 
 that he speaks of some of the more nimous trout and salmon streams of 
 New Hrunswick and Quebec, reached by the International Line and its 
 connections. Of course it is well known that New Brunswick contains 
 some of the finest fishing of Eastern America. 
 
 Beginning with the St. John and tributaries, the Canadian Pacific 
 Railway from St. John reaches the great bend of the river above (Irand 
 
 47 
 
 1 
 
K.ill^ ,mil till' lu'iwurk '<( niliiilarics. tliat witli tlu'ir tiny lakc^ ilcs(ril)U 
 ilili( ,iti' Ir.ii crii's oviT NortliiTii M.iiiu-, ami iiitiTiniiiKlc with llio lioad 
 watiT^ of the i<fstig(>iul\L', Ncjiisimiit, Miraiiiirlii. ami others ot" iipiicr 
 Nt'w Ilrtiiiswirk. Nearly ail of these small streams are full of trout, and 
 ^'ive good returns to the rod that reaches them. 
 
 The rejjions beyond these streams, and hut a few miles from the rail- 
 way, .ire essentially an unexplored wilderness, full of large game, antl llic 
 wildest jMissihle scenery. 
 
 THE TOBIQUE 
 
 River, penetrated lor fifteen miles by a branch railway, has certain ele- 
 ments of the granil and pictiiresiiue not possessed by any other I'rovin- 
 cial stream. It runs throiij;h a mountain group of astonishing grandeur, 
 a portion or connection of the Alleghany system ; they seemingly assert 
 their relationship by appearing in abru[)t and striking forms. 'I'he Mine 
 
 Mountain range on the lower 
 side attains an altitude of 
 eighteen hundred feet. 
 
 .Sixty miles from its con- 
 tinence with the St. John, 
 'l'obi(lue '• forks " into four 
 small streams. At this point 
 is a huge salmon pool in 
 w h i c h fifty-four l)eauties 
 have been actually counted 
 at one time. The right and 
 left branches have good fish- 
 ing, the latter more espe- 
 cially in trout. 
 
 Some twenty miles below Perth, at the little station of Kent, one 
 can secure guides, and in fifteen miles of driving reach the tributaries of 
 the Miramichi, where some of the best salmon fishing of the Province 
 may be enjoyed. The Southwest, Northwest, Little Southwest, and 
 Savogle branches are all good. The fish are not large but exceedingly 
 gamy. These streams are said, by Mr. Philip Cox of Newcastle, N. B.,to 
 be early, fish entering them last of May and continuing till late Septem- 
 ber. Eighteen thousand seven hundred salmon were taken from these 
 streams in one year, and that within five years. Fishing privileges on 
 these streams are mostly held by the owners of the lands. 'I'he Nash- 
 
 
 48 
 
,L's (Icsrril)e 
 til tlu' Ihm(I 
 .•r^ (if \\\)\)vr 
 )f trout, and 
 
 om till' rail- 
 IIK-, ami the 
 
 certain do- 
 her I'rovin- 
 ig grandeur, 
 iunj,'ly assert 
 , 'I'he llhie 
 )!! the lower 
 altitude ot" 
 1 feet. 
 
 om its ron- 
 ■ St. John, 
 " into four 
 Vt this i)oint 
 lon pool in 
 lur Ijeauties 
 illy counted 
 le right and 
 e good fish- 
 more espe- 
 
 f Kent, one 
 tril)utari(.'s of 
 he Province 
 thwest, and 
 
 exceedingly 
 tie, N. B.,to 
 late Septem- 
 1 from these 
 privileges on 
 
 'I'he Nash- 
 
"p" 
 
 
 ^/////-'^ i^/V.y/////. 
 
 Mt 
 
waak River, entering St. John just above Fredericton, contains some 
 fish, hut is scarcely to be ratetl as a first-class stream, although any of 
 its small tributaries are good trout waters. 
 
 Coming down to civilization, many small streams west of St. John, 
 along the Shore Line, are well stocked with trout running up to four 
 and \]vii poimds weight. The same may be said of the brooks entering 
 Kennebccasis Bay, easterly from St. John. Two streams, the Upper 
 .Salmon and Big Salmon, on the Fundy shore between St. John and 
 ^[oncton, furnish moderately good salmon fishing, considering their 
 nearness to large cities. 
 
 MIRAMICHI. 
 
 Following the Intercolonial Railway, which is the great /is/i line of 
 Canada, the next river of importance is the famous Miramichi, which is 
 crossed at Newcastle. This remarkable stream is said to have over a 
 hundred tributaries, which would certainly seem reasonable on studying 
 
 its appearance on the 
 map. 'I'his river lias 
 l)een a great salmon 
 water in its day, and is 
 still so, though laws for 
 its protection imtil re- 
 cently have been poorly 
 enforced. The govern- 
 ment is doing much 
 toward restocking it, 
 and it is possible to 
 make it what it once 
 was in course of time. 
 At Red Bank, less than twelve miles from Newcastle, and at Big Hole 
 and Dennis's pools, which are free fishing, there is fine sport, grilse may 
 be taken in almost any of the smaller tributaries, and sea trout are plenty 
 in most of the streams entering Miramichi or Kouchibouguac Bays, east 
 of Newcastle. Shipping can penetrate nearly fifty miles inland, by the 
 Miramichi, and c inoes for two hundred or more. 
 
 -.-upj^Soii*^--, ■• 
 
 CHALEURS BAY AND JACQUET RIVER. 
 
 Following the Intercolonial through fifty miles of uninteresting coun- 
 try to Hathurst, we are introduced to the Bales de Chaleurs, that magnifi- 
 cent arm of the ocean around whi(i-i cling so many legends and supei- 
 
 50 
 
ntaiiis some 
 lOugh any of 
 
 of St. Johr, 
 ; up to four 
 oks entering 
 , the Upper 
 t. John and 
 lering their 
 
 t Jish Zinc of 
 :hi, which is 
 have over a 
 on studying 
 lice on tiie 
 i river lias 
 eat sahiion 
 day, and is 
 igh laws for 
 3n initil re- 
 been poorly 
 rhe govern- 
 loing much 
 stocking it, 
 possible to 
 hat it once 
 -se of time. 
 It Hig Hole 
 :, grilse may 
 It are plenty 
 c Bays, east 
 land, by the 
 
 ER. 
 
 esting coun- 
 
 liat magnili- 
 
 anil siipei- 
 
 stitions. I'.athurst itself is a most inviting looking town, and has one 
 hotel, at least, that may well claim to be a summer resort, ha\ing a 
 charming situation on the very edge of the bay. The Ncpisiguit River 
 finds the sea here, another good salmon stream, but better salt-water 
 trouting, its estuary alive with them early in the season. .About the 
 middle of May great numbers are taken, weighing from six pounds 
 downward. This is true of the Tabucintac and Tracadie Rivers, a few 
 miles south. But for sport with the gun commend me to this place 
 indeed ! for did not the writer see the harbor black with geese, and the 
 delicious blue-wingetl duck, one stinging October morning? American 
 sportsmen come here for moose and caribou, as well as the smaller game. 
 
 The Jar([uet River, at station of that name, is just above Hathurst, 
 ranks as a wonderfully good sea-trout stream, and furnishes very good 
 small salmon or grilse fishing. For pure gaminess, the sea-trout, when 
 caught with the fly in these rapid waters, is closely akin to the salmon, 
 showing splendid fighting (I'lalities and immense activity. 
 
 The Millers at Sunnyside are good guides and canoeists, and will 
 mdicate to the sportsman such holes as are free on the river, from Big 
 Hole Brook down the twelve miles to Barclay's, where is foimd a cozv 
 seashore hotel. The scenery along this stream is wild and romantic. 
 
 Charlo River, a few miles ferther north, is another sea-trout and 
 brook-trout stream, the fcjrmer of five-pound weight antl under, the latter 
 from four pounds down to one-half pound. In fact, nearly any of the 
 small rivers flowing into Bay of Chaleurs are good fishing from May until 
 September. 
 
 DALHOUSIE. 
 
 .A short spui of the railway at Dalhousie Junction leads to the great 
 watering place, 1 )alhousie, and the large siunmer hotel. Inch Arran. 
 Fine bathing is enjoyed here, magnificent views across to the (,)ue'\.c 
 shore, the glorious mountains of Bonaventure, and out over the hn^ niful 
 Chaleurs (that bewitching expanse) the towering cliffs of Tracadiegash 
 at (Jaspt^. Steamer trips are made to the bit of France out yonder, 
 where all the quaint customs and dress of the Breton fishermen are 
 retained, to a large degree. 
 
 The Indian name for this bay is Ecketuam Xeniaache, meaning " a 
 sea of fish " ; exceedingly ai)roi)os it is, too. Dalhousie is practically at 
 the mouth or estuary of the famed Restigouche. At Campbellton, a kw 
 miles above, and, in fact, all the way along the rail route is ha<l an inspir- 
 
 51 
 
f 
 
 uv view of ihc waters, an almost i)riineval mountain forest Iving hevond, 
 the little settlement of Indian Point sleeping at their feet, near the historic 
 ruins of i'etite Rochelle. 
 
 The Intercolonial have chosen this view, (jiiite wisely, as tlie subject 
 for a picture, whose reproduction has recently been accomplished. The 
 same good taste selected the (juite ideal " meeting of the waters ' just 
 above for a similar jjurjiose. 
 
 I 
 
 THE RESTIGOUCHE. 
 
 ^Ve could scarcely do better than to take bodily Mr. Kilby Reynolds's 
 descriptioriof this king of salmon streams and reprint it here, containing, 
 as it does, so much of fact and suggestion ; we shall beg his in lulgence 
 for a little " cribbing." Briefly stated, this river is two hundred miles 
 long, draining with its tnl)utaries more than two thousand square miles, a 
 land of mountain and vale, ])rimeval forest and smiling meadow ; flowing 
 from silent spring lakes and leaping cascades, jjursuing a tortuous course, 
 full of " runs " and torrents, to wander with silent content out into the 
 "reen leagues of Chaleur. Its swift currents are lashed by a tliousand 
 tiiousand leaping trout, its silvery bed mottled by the silent shadows of 
 lusty salmon. 
 
 There are many conflicting interpretations of this Indian name, one 
 with imaginative taste making it " Five-fingered River," approi)riately ; 
 another, quite jjositively, quoting ol 1 missionary chronicles, " River of 
 the Long War." Whatever it means, it is a noble streams, and the 
 ecstasy of a true sportsman. 
 
 Regarding its fishing, nearly all the best pools are held by lessees, 
 l)rinci]>ally the Restigouche Salmon Club and a few other American 
 gentlemen. The river is not leased above Quatawamkedgwick, as these 
 upper waters are not especially good fisliing. Proper letters of introduc- 
 tion will secure the privilege of casting on most any of the large pools. 
 Salmon of fifty pounds weight are often taken, the average usually run- 
 ning from twenty-two to twenty-four pounds. In the numerous lakes 
 near Campbellton " plain fishing" may be had any time, trout of a half- 
 pound to four pounds l)eing abundant. Large and small game for the 
 gunner are everywhere hereabouts, l)oth lond and water. 
 
 From Metapedia to Newjiort on the north shore of the bay are a 
 half-dozen superb salmon streams, the Grand Cascapedia being the best, 
 yielding fish u]> to fifty-six pounds ; and farther over, the York near 
 Gaspe. whose fish run from fifteen to forty-five pounds weight. Splendid 
 
 52 
 
I 
 
 ying licyond, 
 r tlie liisUnic 
 
 s the sul)jc('t 
 lislie<l. 'Ilic 
 waters ■' just 
 
 )y Reynolds's 
 ;, containing. 
 is iivluigencc 
 indred miles 
 |iiare miles, a 
 low ; flowing 
 tuous course, 
 out into the 
 y a thousand 
 It shadows of 
 
 in name, one 
 pi)roi)riately ; 
 s, " River of 
 ims, and the 
 
 Id by lessees, 
 er American 
 v'ick, as these 
 i of introduc- 
 e large pools. 
 ; usually run- 
 merous lakes 
 out of a half- 
 game for the 
 
 ;he bay are a 
 ;ing the best, 
 le York near 
 It. Splendid 
 
r 
 
trotit fishing prevails in tliL- streams entering the south shore of St. 
 I,awrence Kiver, the St. .Anne's ranks iiigh as a salmon stream also. 
 
 .\t C'acoiina is the great and popular resort of St. J.a\vren<e Hall. 
 perha])s the most famous watering place i'l Canada, with its splendid 
 beaches, noble St. Lawrence panorama, and pure bracing air. M Riviere 
 (hi Lou]), near by, steamers of the Saguenay and St. Lawrence River lines 
 touch, afl'ording another n'rc excursion uj) either of these famed waters, 
 and even to the wilds of Lake St. John in the far nortli. Here also is 
 connection made with the Canadian Pacific for Crand Kails and other 
 jioints of interest along the river and to the city of St. John, or back to 
 St. Andrews and St. S'.ei)hen mentioned heretofore. 
 
 Some forty-five miles or more eastward from Riviere dii Lou|) and 
 two or three miles from St. Fabicn station is agrouj) of lakelets, contain- 
 ing (juantities of trout which are said to accept bait or fly from early June 
 till late August, and at the next station is Hie, -'little Hie." the acme of 
 all an artist t)r wonder seeker could desire, with its great cliffs, ]>icturesque 
 islands, antl entrancing vistas of St. Lawrence scenerv. 
 
 54 
 
hoR' of St. 
 
 11 also. 
 
 irncL- Hall. 
 
 ts splendid 
 .\t RivicTf 
 River lines 
 
 ned waters. 
 
 I ere alsi) is 
 
 i and other 
 or back to 
 
 i Lou]) and 
 ts, contain- 
 1 early June 
 he at me of 
 |>i(tinvs(iiie 
 
 FISH AND GAME LAWS. 
 
 Close season, (Juehec, spi'c kled trout, October i to |)ccenil)er ,^i ; 
 salmon, .\iigiist 15 to l'Vl)riiary 1 ; New Itrunswick, s|)eckled trout. 
 September 15 to May i ; salmon, August 15 to February i. 
 
 In New Brunswick no license is re(iuired of non-residents ; but in 
 (Quebec this is required, and can be obtained of the fish commissioner. 
 
 The regions about the liead waters of tiie streams we have mentioned, 
 as also the forests of Cumberland, Colchester. Halifax, and Ciuysborough. 
 Nova .Scotia, or Victoria and Inverness in i'ix\)c iireton,are noted moose 
 and caribou grounds, and with i)roper guides will not disappoint tlie 
 gunner. The close season on these is, Nova Scotia, Febniary i to Sep- 
 temlier 15 ; New Brunswick, February 15 to August ,^i, on deer as well ; 
 in (^)iiebec, February i to Sejjtember i, and of deer, January i to 
 October i. No one jjerson is allowed to take more than two moose 
 and four caribou in any one year or season. The flesh is to be carried 
 out of the woods within ten days after killing, and game killed during 
 the latter part of January shall be carried out during the first five days 
 of February. The penalty for the violation of these provisions is from 
 530 to $50, and a fine of $25 is imposed for hunting with dogs. Wood- 
 cock must not be killed before sunrise or after simset. Blue-winged 
 duck must not be taken between the first days of April and August. 
 The annual licenses for non-residents expire on the ist of .August. 
 They cost $^0 each. 
 
 There are, also, other details regarding rpiantity, manner of killing, 
 dressing, etc., which the interested can find from the Intercolonial and 
 Windsor and Annapolis Railway guides, or the government i)ublications. 
 New Brunswick is doing much of late to enforce her laws on seining and 
 spearing, as well as restocking her streams, but Nova Scotia needs a 
 vigorous stirring up on this question. At present there are in the latter 
 Province but one or two really good salmon streams, while there are 
 very many good trout and sea-trout streams along her coast line. 
 
 I 
 
 ! i 
 
 55 
 
EASTWARD AGAIN 
 
 I laving dc'cidcd uin>ii the "all rail" imitc to reach the far hlast ul' 
 (iiir amic ipatioiis, the \\i\c station ot" the Intercolonial Railway of Canada 
 will 1)0 our startinj; point and may lie accejjted as im indication of the 
 proj^ressive niana},'e!uent of " the people's own " line. This is our intro- 
 diK tion to Canadian railways; and if anyone has hail doul)ts as to the 
 conilort or s])ee<l of sue h service, or the feasihilily of gosernnient nian- 
 aj^enient, let them he dispelled forthwith. 
 
 :X: 
 
 KENNEBECASIS. 
 
 '{"he track follows the supposed former bed of the St. Jolin for 
 two or three miles, when it skirts the shores of lovely Kennehecasis. 
 There is somethint{ bewitching about this name, and the waters them- 
 selves are none the less so, retaining as they do the wiklness of their 
 primitive state to a great degree. The stations, like the scenery, are 
 suggestive of the Scotch Highlands, for there is Torryburn and Rothesay, 
 and a few miles south the fair waters of Loch l.omond. 
 
 For upwards of twenty miles liie rail clings closely to the shore of 
 KeiMiebecasis, the simnner homes of St. John's best i)eople lining the 
 route almost continuously. .\t Rothesay is the Rothesay Hall, a very 
 comfortable summer hotel, and the best point from which to enjoy or 
 explore the bay and triljutaries. Nearly o])posite, across the water, lies 
 the charming village of Clifton, in every way fitteil to the lovely setting 
 of landscajjc provided for it. 
 
 Beyond Hampton the bay narrows to a stream, and the stream, 
 meandering among lovely meadows and confining hills, is in turn lost in 
 little brooks that here and there send out a gleam of silver, then follow a 
 few miles of hojjelessly barren and unattractive country, redeemed later 
 by the quaint French settlements that line the Anagance River, leaving 
 their impress on nomenclature as well as landscape. 
 
 Very cm-ious and entertaining is the study of the time tables along 
 these Canadian railways. Indian, French, and Scotch names blend in 
 a gooil-natured medley, and indicate the character of the early settlers, 
 if notiiing more. In many instances the result is a blending of French- 
 Indian, as in Feticodiac or Petitcodiac, It is also very interesting to 
 r.j*e how the early settlers have influenced the contours and general 
 aspect of the country they have settled ; this is most notably true in 
 
 S6 
 
(^(iiilici ;m(l [i.irls oi' I'.MstiTH Nova Scnti.i .md ('.i|if I'.ri'toii, wlxiv 
 primitive ( omlitioiis |iivv.iil to an iiiiiiMial (k'uri'f. 
 
 This little Aiiagaiu c River is tyiii( al of nearly all streams enlerinn 
 tlie Hay of Finidy, in that it exists, and then a^ain does not, it may lie 
 full and ovcrllowing with a tt)o generous tide at one hour, and a very few 
 hours later a muddy pish in the landscaii.-. its sides reeking' with ^'listen- 
 ing slime. We must coiitess to a strange t'as<i nation in these tidal antiis, 
 a fascination not li'ssened li\ a several weeks' intimai v. 
 
 MONCTON. 
 
 Su( h |ii( lures(|ue names as I'lumesweep, I'enolisiiui''. ami Anaganc e 
 greet the ears and lead to Salisbury, where detours can be made to the 
 famous tlshing grounds of Toilet or ("anaan Rivers, and on to the great 
 railway town of New llrunswick, the < entre of the Intercolonial system 
 of railways, and a thriving progressive city of more than ten thousand 
 souls. 
 
 It may not be considered a compliment by a .Monctonian, but to an 
 American the city is perhaps more like those of his own country than 
 almost any he will find in Canada. Its rapid growth in a few years, from 
 a provincial hamlet to the hustling city of the jiresent time, is also 
 suggestive of the .\nierican idea. The fine and imposing office bnililing 
 of the Intercolonial is at the left of the station on entering from the west. 
 The great sjiectacle of Monkton is its "bore," a most astonishing effect 
 of the I'undy tides, which come tearing uj) the Fetitcodiac River bed in 
 an impetuous wall of water from four to eight feet in height ; this is truly 
 worthy of a stop for the express purpose of witnessing, and adds one more 
 to the already numerous phenomena of Fundy. 
 
 Moncton is also the great distributing point for tourists, northward, 
 eastward, and southwaril : northward to the great fishing streams, the 
 Bay of Chaleur, the St. Lawrence and Quebec, which have been 
 mentioned elsewhere ; eastward to the I'rince Kdward Island ; south- 
 ward to Nova Scotia and the noble Island of Cape Breton. We shall 
 endeavor to suggest briefly to the reader a few of the allurements of all 
 the latter sections in the following pages. 
 
 57 
 
ih 
 
 ■ijti^^'\ 
 
 
 "' » , . I. 
 
 rillO • (.AKDl'.N 01' CANADA' -MMMKUMPi; - 
 ( HAKIOlTKroWN-Kl'Sl U()-M'()KTS- KISII- 
 IN(;-Kl'UAI. I'VI'KS-I'HK KI-.Tl'KN 
 
 \\V. Iiitcrcolonial Riiilway carries the traveller Uvelve or 
 tiiirteen miles eastward to the landing of the I'rince 
 I'ldward Island Navigation Company, at Point du Chene, 
 where coimnodions new steamers cross the Straits of 
 Northumlierland. \Ve pass on ;he way tlie attractive 
 town of Shediac, where bathing can actually be enjoyed 
 in mikl waters, and oysters of most lielicate (juality served 
 galore in every style. 
 
 l'"rom Point dn Chene to Snmmerside it is thirty-five 
 niiles of delightful sailing, and it is hard to imagine the 
 nearly insuperable barrier that separates these two points 
 in winter, in the form of ice-floes that shut off communi- 
 cation almost completely. At times the only means of 
 conveyance is by open boats from Cape Tormentine, 
 N. P., to Cape Traverse on the island, which are pushed 
 through or dragged over the floating ice cakes at great 
 peril. It is not unnatural, then, that the Island Province 
 siiould have its separate existence and legislature, the 
 
 S8 
 

 
 
 
 
 
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 IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
 1.0 
 
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 bs Ijtt 12.2 
 
 I.I 
 
 
 
 1 '-^ II-'-* 
 
 1.25 
 
 PhotDgraphic 
 
 Sciences 
 
 Coiporalion 
 
 
 23 WEST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 
 
 (716) 872-4503 
 
 m 
 
CIHM/ICMH 
 
 Microfiche 
 
 Series. 
 
 CIHIVI/ICIVIH 
 Collection de 
 microfiches. 
 
 JR-- 
 
 Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques 
 
I <!tt\WWi\nf tc \Vriiwnrari 
 
 smallest of the confederation. This tight little island, liie "Carden of 
 Canada " it is called, is thirty-four miles liy one hundred ;\nd fifty, and it 
 would seem that not a foot of its area was un]>rodu(tive, for it has no 
 lofty hills, no rocks, and little forest, with a rich red loam that resjionds 
 generously to the hand of the c ultivator. 
 
 It is evident why the natives should he dubbed " Redfeet." but not 
 as explainable that New-Brnnswickers are called " I'.uckwheats." or 
 Nova-Scotians " Bluenoses.' but they have all ai < epled their nicknames 
 philosophically as becomes the true Canadian. 
 
 'l"he island has evidently been appreciated from the fust, for it has 
 suffered an almost ceaseless disjnite over the land ([uestion for nearly a 
 century. Discovered by Cabot, who named it St. John, the English 
 ftxiling to take possession, it was claimed by the l-Yench in 1523, who 
 established fisheries. The treaty of I'oiUainebleau gave the island to 
 (ireat l>ritain, who gave it its jjiesent name. 'I'he two millions or more 
 acres were divitled into sixty-six lots and awarded to as m.ui)- grantees ; 
 the usual difficulties between a local government and a king's governor 
 followed, resulting in a drawn battle. 'J'he jjurchase by colonial govern- 
 ment and redistribution of lands under dispute only partially solved the 
 ])rol)lem. which now seems decided l)y the conditions required since the 
 island joined the confederation. .Since the union with the Provinces in 
 1873, and the building of a railroad through the island, prosperity seems 
 to have grown ai)ace. 
 
 Of course, agriculture is the one great industry, its products exi)orted 
 to the amount of over a million dollars ; its fisheries next, with an export 
 of nearly a half-million dollars value. A stay of however short duration 
 reveals the (iict that the " Redfeet " have garden i)rcHlucts in quantity 
 and quality unexcelled anywhere. Oysters, also, of a peculiarly delicate 
 flavor, are raked from the shores of many bays, having a reputation all 
 over Canada. ' , 
 
 SUMMERSIDE. 
 
 As the steamer approaches the island, the first land sighted is the 
 headland of Cai)e Egmont, in the far north, after wliich the course leads 
 into Bedeque Bay and the busy shipbuilding town of Summerside. In 
 this harbor lies a picturescjue little island at the mouth of the Dunk 
 River, which has been for several years ([uite a resort, with its hotel and 
 woodsy roads. Prince Edward Island is but three miles wide just here, 
 the bay of Richmond penetrating to that point on the other side. A 
 little trip by rail to Tignish will reveal the quaint settlements inland and 
 alongshore of Scotch and Irish origin, and the pastoral beauties so char- 
 acteristic of the whole island. 
 
 59 
 
 
 m 
 
' CHARLOTTETOWN 
 
 is tlif important city of the island, is attractively anil generously laid out, 
 and has a iioimlation approaching; twelve thousand. Its sipiare full of 
 
 P>5T«R,rtl.<StlMt.' 
 
 - P.L.I.sl.flri% 
 
 
 flowering plants and well-arranged walks is surrounded by substantial, 
 not to say hanilsome buildings, tiiat might do honor to a more important 
 city. \\'ith all of its local attractions, Charlottetown offers a series of 
 delightful land and water excursions and a host of fishing waters that 
 are truly remarkable. Steamers run three times a week to Orwell, on 
 the eastern shore of Hillsboro' Bay, twice weekly to West River, a goo<l 
 
 do 
 
y laid out. 
 uc full of 
 
 J 
 
 y^: 
 
 >•■ 
 
 4. 
 
 Ik. 
 
 substantial, 
 ; important 
 a series of 
 rt'aters that 
 Orwell, on 
 ver, a good 
 
 ii If iiiwriifiumi iii]i!inimit»M 
 
 sea-trout fisliing water, and nearly every day to Rocky Point. All ol 
 these trips reveal singular beauty of land and water-scajie. The hills, 
 though not high or abrupt, arc gently undulating, and fresh with the 
 colors of thrifty farm jiroduction, slope gently to the shores, where often- 
 times the eye is eaught by glorious i)al(hes of the bright orange and red 
 of the red sandstone, ami rises abruptly in jjlaces to a height of fifty or 
 seventy-five feet. 
 
 C'harlottetown's i)osition at the head of a great bay ami at the junc lion 
 of three considerable rivers gives it a great advantage as a reiort, and its 
 hotels in two or three instances are such as to encourage a jirotracted 
 
 stay. 
 
 RUSTICO, 
 
 a town on the north shore, is a most delightful little resort, with good 
 l)athing and boating, and if jiossible better fishing along the Hunter 
 River. The eastern section from Douglas to Souris is composed largely 
 of (".aelic settlements, where the names, the customs, and all the little 
 details in life are thoroughly iirimitive and enjoyable. At St. Peter's 
 some good salmon or sea-trout fishing may be enjoyetl,and in f;ict nearly 
 all the rivers along the coast line are noted for their good fishing. 
 
 The hospitality of the " Redfoot " is proverbial. .\ journey across 
 country on foot, or a i)addle up any of the numerous canoeable streams, 
 with rod or gun, will bring one in touch with the warm hearts and sim- 
 ple manners of the Scotch settlers, as well as the haunts of feathered 
 game that inh.abit the island generally. The western end of the island 
 is the favored locality for the gunner, Cascumpeque Harl)or in particular 
 should be mentioned. 
 
 'I'he possibilities for a roundabout route, taking in other attractions 
 upon the return, are great. For one may, instead of retracing the route 
 via Summerside and Point du Chene, leave the island at Charlottetown, 
 crossing by steamer to Pictou on the Nova Scotia shore of the mainland. 
 We are now upon the true peninsula of Nova Scotia, in reaching which, 
 without the tour of Prince Edward Island, the route is from Moncton — 
 the junction point to which we first came from St. John — by rail of the 
 Intercolonial through Painsec Junction, where the detour was made to 
 Point du Chene, the point of embarkation for the island. 
 
 'J'ruro is the junction point for Halifax, needless to name as the 
 metropolis of Nova Scotia. Here the main line of the railway tips 
 sharply down to the Atlantic, while the Pictou branch turns in the opi)o- 
 site direction to find us just landed from the Prince Edward Island 
 boat, or steaming down over the intervening eleven miles from Pictou 
 Wharf to meet the train from Moncton, and through Moncton, St. John, 
 at New ("ilasgow. 61 
 
 ■V siavtpii'Jrtitt**^ ■ '.J 
 
i^^mmMm^ 
 
 SOMK. TOWNS KN KOl'TK — IllsH )KK CKOUNUS — 
 I'HK KKIilON OK MINKS -M KM r OK CANSO. 
 
 To reacli Nova Scutiii and Ca])e Breton l)y rail one leaves Moncton 
 by the Intercolonial, passes through I'ainsec Junction, and then is carried 
 with a swirl southward along the Memranicook and out on the great 
 marshes of the same name. It is not too much to declare this marsh 
 land the most impressive on Canadian territory, if not on the continent. 
 Near Memranicook station and frou) tiience to Dorchester it reaches 
 its full grandeur, the broad antl simple planes, broken here and there by 
 the tidal river, or the clustering haystacks, and beyond the (|uite 
 European stctlement of St. Joseph's College, on a low hill dominating 
 the picture. 
 
 At Dorchester, Shei)ody 15ay is encountered, the upper extremity of 
 Chignecto Channel, an arm of Fundy. It is here antl also at Amherst, 
 a few miles farther beyond, that the tides ])ile themselves to such tre- 
 mendous heights, sixty feet being the maximum ; here also the Petitcodiac 
 and Memranicook waters meet. I )orchester is an attractive old town, is 
 possessed of much wealtii and stately homes, but at present seems to be 
 taking a somewhat lengthy na]) ; this is rather pleasing than otherwise, 
 however, to a tourist. Sackville possesses what is lacking in Dorchester, 
 — much push and activity, less attractiveness and (luaintness; shipbuild- 
 ing is the all-absorbing occupation, the ring of the mallet re-echoing 
 from the hillsides all along the north shore of Cumberland Basin, which 
 lies to the southward. 
 
 From Sackville a branch railway runs across the fertile country of 
 Westmoreland County to Cape Tourmentine, on the Northumberland 
 Strait, the winter port of Prince Edward Island boats. From Sackville, 
 also, the train glides out on the great marshes of Tantramar, the Tinta- 
 manc of the Frencli, -ignifying " a hubbub," a name well illustrated at 
 the incoming or outgoing of the tide. This vast area is reclaimed by 
 dikes, anil at the head of the marsh is one of the greatest plover grounds 
 in Canada. 
 
 6a 
 
 J 
 
3 
 
 J 
 
'I'liis ii'j^ioii is liistoiic j;i(iuii(l, the si I'lu- of tl\<)se stirring' cxcnts so 
 fascinatingly iiictunil l)y I'aiknian. '\'Uv littli- Missiguasli Rivt-r just 
 lii'y(in<l AuIk station was made liy tlic I'riMK h, (he dividing line lii'twcen 
 tliL'ir territory and tliat of tin- llnglisli, planting old I'ort licaiiscjoiir, now 
 Fort ('nnil)i'rland, just lurf to dctVnd their claim. A little l)elow are 
 the remains of the opposing Fort Lawrence, hack of which stood the 
 Acadian settlement of Jiiitii/'iissiii. 'I'he tin\ stream still serves as the 
 hounilary of two provinces, and as we cross it we enter the land of the 
 " Hluunose," the storied soil of Acadia, and shortly after jiuU up at 
 Amherst station. .Amherst, aside from rich agricultural and mining 
 interests, is noticeable as the western terminal of the great Chigneito 
 Marine Railway that was to he, and whose interrupted works are i)asse(l 
 a mile or two before entering the town. From here also runs a funny 
 little mining railway to the Joggins, on Cumberland Flasin, the same of 
 Joggins raft fame, and even more notable to geologists for its rich fossil 
 remains along the cliffs that line the shore. 
 
 Evidences of coal mining are frequent about here, for this is the 
 renowned Cumberland coal district, one of the richest among Nova 
 Scotia's rich mining jjossessions. Of the nearly two million tons of coal 
 mineil annually in Nova Scotia, these mines contribute some half million, 
 or about one-fourth. Along the line, at numerous points, spurs of rail- 
 way runoff to mines in either direction ; while at Sjjring Hill Junction, 
 the Cumberland Railway runs across to Parrsborough and the Hasin of 
 Minas, into certainly one of the most romantic bits of country in all the 
 i'rovinces, indeed, we should name it among four or five sections as 
 espeenally worthy the traveller's attention. A further description of 
 Minas .vill be found, under the head of Noi'a Sco/ia, elsewhere. 
 
 At Oxford Junction again, another branch railway of the Intercolonial 
 runs out over the rich country of 'latamagouche and I'ictou, returning to 
 the main line at New Glasgow. From Wentworth the train begins a 
 long climb of several miles up the slope of the Cobequid Mountains, 
 that line the northern shore of the picturesciue bay of the same name. 
 The outlook, which has been monotonous and limited, now opens into 
 a landscape of irresistible beauty ; one of (iniet pastoral charm, as seen 
 from a high mountain ; stretching away for miles toward the strait, reach- 
 ing its climax with the enthusiasm of the beholder near F'olly Lake, a 
 little eye set in its ileep mountain socket six hundred feet above the sea. 
 
 From FoUeigh the locomotive and its followers enjoy a toboggan 
 coast for some ten miles out into the open country, overlooking the 
 extremest eastern waters of Fundy. 
 
 64 
 
; cxx'iits su 
 
 Rivor just 
 
 ic hi'twcfii 
 
 ^L'joiir, now 
 
 l)cl()w arc 
 
 stood tho 
 
 ACS as till' 
 
 and of tlu- 
 
 ])till ii|) at 
 
 iiid mining 
 
 Cliij,'in.'(tt) 
 
 are jjasscd 
 
 lis a funny 
 
 lie same of 
 
 rich fossil 
 
 this is tiie 
 long Nova 
 ons of coal 
 lalf million, 
 lurs of rail- 
 11 Junction, 
 le liasin of 
 •y in all the 
 sections as 
 cription of 
 re. 
 
 itercolonial 
 eturning to 
 n begins a 
 Mountains, 
 ame name. 
 
 opens into 
 rm, as seen 
 trait, reach- 
 illy Lake, a 
 jve the sea. 
 I toboggan 
 looking the 
 
 TRURO, 
 
 which is at the head of (■()be<iuid May, is a charming town ; large, pros- 
 perous, aristo< ratic looking, in fad, to Nova Scotia what Kredericton is 
 to New IJnmswick, the most attractive of its size. It possesses a remark- 
 ably pretty park and the most varied assortment of drives across moun- 
 tain or UKirsh. and needs, we must add, a i^ooi/ hold. It is here that 
 the lines diverge, running along the fertile valley and capricious waters 
 of Shubenacadie River, (Irand 1-ake, and lledford Masin to Halifax ; 
 or reaching out to that bree/.y isle of Cape llreton, wliither we ai-e 
 journeying. 
 
 NEW GLASGOW 
 
 is an intensely practical mining town, possessing many strong reminders 
 along its streets and lanes of its Gaelic founders. Their stamj) is upon 
 it as upon all the country from here eastward to Scatari Islanil. The 
 mines here and at Stellarton are extensive and valuable, and to those 
 who have never seen such, interesting and accessible. 
 
 ANTIGONISH. 
 
 From New Glasgow to .\ntigonish are stations whose names are 
 either Scotch or Indian, little towns among fertile fields or along marshy 
 streams j with now and then a glimpse across to the Antigonish Moun- 
 tains. We are in the suggestively named townships of Maxwelton and 
 
 Arrisaig. 
 
 Approaching the fair town of Antigonish, the striking twin towers 
 of the Scotch Cathedral of St. Ninian attract the eye and dominate the 
 scene, acting as a foil to the prevailing horizontal lines of the landscape. 
 We recall how grateful Warner found the sight of this town in his quest 
 of BaM-ck. The American elm grows plentifully here, combining with 
 other fair features to make it an alluring retreat for " the traveller who 
 desires nothing but unrestricted lotus-eating." 
 
 One of the leading products of Nova Scotia is gypsum, of which 
 Antigonish quarries, that honeycomb the great cliffs on George Bay a 
 few miles northward, yield a very large proportion. Some most remark- 
 able contrasts of color are seen in a drive or sail from Antigonish to 
 Cape St. George, the dazzling white cliffs of gypsum rising in places two 
 hundred feet above the turquoise-hued waters of the bay. It is here, 
 too. that a journey southward may be made into the forest wilds of cen- 
 tral Nova Scotia, with their herds of moose and deer ; a wilderness that 
 
 65 
 
 i 
 
 ii 
 
 aimmmmmKMm0imimm 
 
r^ 
 
 rtMchfs with tew intorr 'ptions from (liiyshoroii^h tMstcrly to Halifax 
 westerly. Still fartluT art- the primitive fishing hamlets that line tiic 
 irregular shores of the southern coast. 
 
 •About the only thing of interest between Antigonish and Mulgrave is 
 the 'I'rappist Monastery near 'I'racadie, at a station calleil Monastery, a 
 very ancient and peculiar institution, whose intent is evitlently to give 
 object lessons in farming and simple living. The close observer will 
 hardly fail to notice on tiie left a most pictures(|ne cluster of silvery gray 
 buildings, over which i)eeps the ijuite foreign-looking spire ami cross of 
 a chajjel. It is another ancient establishment, a nunnery, and a relic of 
 "Id Acadian days. 
 
 ^^r^^^w^m^..^. 
 
 
 From this point on. the fre<iuent outcropping of brilliant white patches 
 of gypsum indicates the character of the soil, afforiling also enlivening 
 contrasts to the deep green of the forests on either hand. Beyond 
 HiUbor ail Boiiche the bristling head of Cape Porcupine looms up over 
 the wilderness, a glimpse of far-away (ieorge Bay is caught, then the 
 train swings sharply to the right and with applied brakes we glide down 
 into 
 
 MULGRAVE, 
 
 with the glorious Strait of Canso, across it the Ultima Thule ot our 
 travels and expectations, the fair island of Cape Breton. Canso. or 
 Canseau, is said to be the French derivation, as in so many instances 
 hereabouts, of the Indian word Kainsok, " steep blufls." The name is 
 apt, for on either hand the fine cliffs of Porcupine or Pirates' Cove drop 
 precipitately from an altitude of nearly five hundred feet into the strait, 
 holding between them the curious little Scottish settlement of McNair's 
 Cove. Along this great waterway moves a never-ending procession of 
 
 66 
 
 •1^. 
 
to Halifax 
 It line tiu' 
 
 tliilnravc is 
 Diiastery, a 
 tly to f,'ivt.' 
 server will 
 iilvery K'ray 
 1(1 cross of 
 I a relic of 
 
 lite patches 
 enlivening 
 Beyond 
 ns up over 
 , then the 
 jlide down 
 
 ule ot our 
 Canso, or 
 y instances 
 le name is 
 Cove drop 
 the strait, 
 f McNair's 
 jcession of 
 
 the conuuene from every nation of ( ivili/aiion. for it is the short cut 
 lielween the cities of the north ami the outer world. 
 
 In approaching the island of Cape IJreton from this point, two main 
 avenue> are offend, one by the ferry of the Intercolonial to its railway 
 terminal at llawkeshury, just opposite Muigrave, (ontinuiuK directly 
 through the island to Sydney ; the other, by the steamers of the IJras 
 d'Or Navigation Company via St. I'eter's Canal anil the lakes to the 
 same pla( e. If the traveller wishes spee<l and comfort, the former route 
 is conunendeil ; if to realize to the full the marvellous beauty and variety 
 of the inland sea, then, by all odds, choose the latter. .\ combination 
 of the two is still better, taking steamer for Crantl Narrows via St. 
 Peter's, thence to Sydney, returning by steamer via liaddeck and Why- 
 cocomagh to the Narrows, thence back by rail to .Mulgrave. 
 
 67 
 

 :TOT^ 
 
 IHE HRAS P'OR LAKES -SYDNEY- HISTORIC I.OUISHURG — 
 ISADDECK., AND THE GREAT NORTH WILDERNESS, 
 
 N leaving Miilgrave by Bras d'Or steamer, we steam down 
 the strait past the mysterious Pirates' Cove, i)ast the 
 expectant hamlet of Melford — for this is the spot where 
 "Terminal City" is supposed to have made a beginning. 
 While we are rounding Bear Head on the left, and 
 approaching tlie Lennox passage, it may be opjiortune to generalize a 
 little on this remarkable island of Cape Breton. Its history begins 
 practically with the Portuguese colony, which in the early fifteen hun- 
 dreds was established in the little bay of St. Peter's, then Port Toulouse, 
 and whose memory is kept alive only by the names that have come down 
 from them intact through the years of subsequent history. The sturdy 
 Bretons who succeeded them have left their imi)rint on every part of the 
 island, the name of which itself was given by them. The complicated 
 struggles for possession of this valued spot by French and English, realiz- 
 ing its importance as a strategic jjoint in North America, constitue ,one 
 of the most intensely interesting chapters in New World history. 
 
 At present the island is essentially a new Scotland, large portions of it 
 being inhabited by the (iaels, while a few settlements are almost wholly 
 French, as at Cheticamp on north shore and Isle Madame, which we are 
 now approaching, and between which and the mainland is Lennox Pass- 
 age. The tenacity with which the customs and traditions of the mother 
 
earn clown 
 , past the 
 spot w!iere 
 beginning. 
 ; left, and 
 jneralize a 
 ory begins 
 fteen hun- 
 Toulouse, 
 ome down 
 rhe sturdy 
 part of the 
 Dmplicated 
 lish, realiz- 
 istitue ,one 
 ry. 
 
 rtions of it 
 lost wholly 
 lich we are 
 inox Pass- 
 the mother 
 
 countries are retained among these people makes the human interest of 
 the region especially marked. 
 
 Not less remarkable, however, is the physical aspect of Cape 
 Breton, a trifle over one hundred miles in length, nearly eighty in widtli, 
 and all but divided through the middle by the waters of the famous 
 Bras d'Or lakes, the division having been completed by the fine canal 
 of St. Peter's, making an exceeilingly attractive route for steamers 
 between St. Pierre Island, Newfoundland, and Halifax. These lakes 
 also form the natural boundary between very distinct and opposite land- 
 scape features, that of the northern l)eing mountainous and exceedingly 
 romantic, the southern low and comparatively uninteresting. 
 
 The mineral resources have recently been brought to our notice 
 through the great enterprise of the Dominion Coal Company, with 
 H. M. Whitney at it head. 
 
 Gypsum is also a staple and important product as well as a striking 
 feature in the landscape. Of the nearly ninety thousand inhabitants, 
 over ten thousand are engaged in fishing. We cannot but believe that 
 when Cape Breton becomes better known it will rank as one of the 
 great summer resorts of America. Increasing railroad and steamer 
 facilities are making this possible, while the unrivalled climate, uniciue 
 land and water-scape beauty, and unlimiteil opportunity for sport and 
 recreation make it more than probable. 
 
 By this time we are fairly within Lennox Passage, with evidences on 
 every hand of the French who inhabit Isle Madame, and cruise up and 
 down the shores in their Frenchy- looking schooners and fishing smacks. 
 
 BRAS DOR LAKES. 
 
 Passing through the great government canal of St. Peter's, the course 
 lies cjnong closely bordering shores and irregular coves and headlands 
 for some six or eijht miles. The large and quaint settlement of the 
 Micmac Indians is passed midway, its white Catholic Church standing 
 out as a landmark for some miles. It is on these islands on St. Anne's 
 day that the Indians hold a religious encampment, with ceremonials and 
 processions of a very unique kind, — a pilgrimage to keep alive the 
 faith among the faint-hearted. 
 
 A tiny white lighthouse at Cape George marks the entrance to St. 
 Peter's Inlet, or, in our case, the exit. Spread before the delighted 
 eyes are the flashing waters of the Great Bras d'Or. Nearly twenty 
 miles across, on the right, reaching its golden arm far into the island, 
 lies East Bay ; on the other hand, the island-studded waters of West 
 
 69 
 
Bay ; the two making a salt inland sea of fifty miles in length, and some- 
 lliing like three hundred square miles area. 
 
 Directly ahead is the nohle hill of Henacadie, at its left the Strait 
 of Barras, or (Irand Narrows; over West Bay, Marble Mountain stands 
 majestically, while along the shores frecjuent gleaming plaster cliffs 
 accent the view, and green islands stand at anchor. A more jjeriect 
 sheet of water for canoeing or yachting could not be imagined, for 
 among its many virtues is that of a scarcely perceptible tide, six inches 
 being the maximum rise and fall. Salmon, cod, mackerel, lobsters, 
 oysters, smelt, and many other kinds of fish abound in their season ; 
 while water fowl fretiuent the coves and estuaries in great numbers. 
 
 u 
 
 .' I- 
 
 GRAND NARROWS. 
 
 The great iron bridge, nearly a mile in length, spanning Barras Strait, 
 carries the Intercolonial Railway, and connects Sydney and the interven- 
 ing towns with the outside world. At this point a little setUement has 
 sprung into existence, centred about the hotel and two or three stores. 
 The natural beauties of the place, its accessibility and central location 
 in relation to the whole Bras d'Or region, good boating and bathing as 
 well, are destined to make Grand Narrows one of the ^rs/ resorts ot 
 Cape Breton. The hotel is one of the best on the island, the views in 
 every direction full of variety and charm. 
 
 From this point one can make with comfort trips up, down, or across 
 the lake, by rail or boat. Northward are the noble lines of the Bad- 
 
 70 
 

 1 
 
 
 •^^ 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
 **• 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 *i 
 
(Lj,nT;fe>of^'&ilgr»H 
 
k 
 
 i : 
 
 f, : 
 
 deck Mountains, eastward the sweeping iii)lanils of Honlarderie Island, 
 l)etween these and the l)ehoider the ever-varied and always beautiful 
 waters of the Little Bras d'Or. 
 
 We will leave the steamer here in jiursuance of our plan as suggestec', 
 and take to the rail again, following almost continually the shore from 
 (Irancl Narrows to Sydney. It is after leaving Shenacadie that the 
 glimpses of lake and mountain begin to arrest attention ; at Boisdale a 
 magnificent line of hills skirts the shore, and the grand outlines of I-ong 
 Islanil burst on the view, separated l)y a narrow channel from the main- 
 land. For several miles the eye will be held l)y a succession of entranc- 
 ing vistas, all the while surrounded with the luxuries of a modern railway 
 service. 
 
 Little Bras d'Or Lake is very remarkably connected with the Atlantic 
 by two narrow channels, between which lies Boularderie Island, the 
 southern or St. Andrew channel we have been following, and continue to 
 do so till after passing Long Island, when the rail turns southward, cross- 
 ing and skirting arms of the Sydney Harbor, finally entering the town of 
 
 If , 
 
 '^, 
 
 SYDNEY, 
 
 the largest on the island and the centre of a vast coal region. The 
 immense piers running far out into the harbor, the numerous steamers 
 and vessels of all types, the long trains, coal laden, all speak of the one 
 
 72 
 
Icrio Island, 
 xys beautiful 
 
 as suggestet', 
 shore from 
 die that the 
 .t Boisdaie a 
 ines of I-ong 
 n the maiii- 
 n of entranc- 
 idern railway 
 
 the Atlantic 
 
 Island, the 
 
 I continue to 
 
 liward, cross- 
 
 t the town of 
 
 egion. The 
 3us steamers 
 c of the one 
 
 great industry. The town is not especially notable, being on the \)w- 
 gressive stage, with every prosjject of a brilliant future. One or two of 
 the older streets are very quaint, and contain frecpient hints of the days 
 when the French were more numerous. .\ large and motlern hotel has 
 just been erected here, with the intent to satisfy tlie demands of the 
 constantly increasing tourist patronage. 
 
 This is the eastern terminal of the Intercolonial, and the most eastern 
 point to which any railway extends in America ; a coal railway runs 
 trains of a mixed character southward to the coal mines and to Louis- 
 burg. The Bras d'Or steamer line also has its terminal here. 
 
 Sydney's importance as a port may be judged by the fact that in one 
 year, that of 1892, over fourteen hundred vessels, mostly steamers, 
 entered and cleared, also that her export of coal amounted to over two 
 hundred thousand tons. Estimates of experts, based on former tests of 
 duration of seams, indicate that Sydney district has /wo billion tons of 
 available coal ! The seams vary from three to twelve feet in thickness, 
 and ninety to four hundred in width, extending in many instances far 
 out under the .Atlantic. 
 
 HISTORIC LOUISBURG. 
 
 To him who has a fondness for history or anticpes, to the American 
 especially, the annals of this fortress of the east must be particularly 
 fascinating. Of the twenty miles between Sydney and Louisburg little 
 can be said ; it is intensely uninteresting. 
 
 Over the portal of Gore Hall at Harvard College ^ 
 is fixed a quaint wrought-iron cross, brought by the 
 colonial troops from Louisburg 
 as a trophy; in the grounds of 
 a well-known physician of Syd- 
 ney stands a curious cannon of 
 the swivel pattern, rescued from 
 the waters of Louisburg Harbor ; 
 so far as known these are all the 
 existing relics of the once-power- 
 ful stronghold. 
 
 Standing on the few remaining 
 earthworks at Louisburg, looking around on the grassy mounds that 
 indicate the oudines of the once massive walls, " curiosity is lost in won- 
 der, wonder gives way to reflection, and reflection leads straight to the 
 question, 'What do all these miles of earthworks mean?'" Drake, in 
 
 73 . -r.r" 
 
his "taking of Kouisbiirg," gives a concise history of this remarkahlc 
 fortress, which is more than the space or intent of this httle volume 
 permits. 
 
 " In creating l-ouishurg the court of Versailles had far more extended 
 views than the building of a strong fortress to guard the gateway into 
 Canada would of itself imply." We read from Parkman's fascinating 
 pages of the ambitions and hopes of the French in .\nierica, of the 
 importance of (Quebec, that (jueenly city of the north, and the intended 
 relative jjosition Louisburg was to hold on the southern limits of .\cadia. 
 It was after the treaty of Utrecht, in 1713, that action began, and in 
 thirty years was created at an expense of nearly five millions (of present 
 money value) a fortress that was known as the Dunkirk of .America. 
 
 The taking of I.ouisburg by a raw army of recruits and vohuiteers ot 
 New luigland in 1 745 is one of the marvels of military history, a sur- 
 jtrise to the world, an everlasting memorial to the valor and pluck of 
 sturdy Capt. Pepperell and his New England yeomen. 
 
 !■ 1 
 
 BRAS DOR AGAIN. 
 
 If there is one tri)) to be named above another on the island, it is that 
 of the steamer from Sydney to Baddeck, Whycogomagh, or Ckand 
 Narrows via (Ireat Rras d'Or. Leaving Sydney at a comfortable hour in 
 the morning, the " Marion " crosses to the thriving rival town of North 
 Sydney, and then puts out to sea past the red cliffs of Cranberry Head, 
 with its great smoke-stacks and colliery elevators, the works of the Syd- 
 ney mines, and around the giant blocks and columns of Point Aconi. 
 
 Then the course lies southwest into the narrow portal of Great Bras 
 d'Or, jiast the sandy bar that all but closes the entrance, and up close 
 under the shadow of Kelley's Mountain, which here rises twelve hun- 
 dred feet above the cove bearing the same name. 
 
 There are many conjectures as to the origin of this " Jrm of Gold." 
 We prefer to accept it as an evidence of the imaginative (lualities of the 
 Breton settlers who gave the name ; its appropriateness is manifest to 
 him who for the first time looks upon the " greater arm." From the 
 entrance to the end of the channel near Baddeck, the waters seldom 
 exceed a mile in width, in one place less than a half-mile and are over- 
 looked by the wild summits of the Englishtown Mountains, and dotted 
 by many wooded isles. In two or three instances the stui^endous chalk 
 cliffs disclose themselves from their [forest surroundings, like marble 
 palaces in a primeval wilderness. 
 
 74 
 
 :j. -U..yi;iiii.i)«i ifimi'ii ----fTniigr~^"r"— 
 
rcmarkaldc 
 ttlc voliinif 
 
 re cxtcndctl 
 [atc'way into 
 
 fascinating 
 rica, of tliu 
 he intenik'il 
 s of Acadia. 
 :gan, and in 
 
 (of present 
 nierica. 
 ohmteers ot 
 story, a sur- 
 nd pluck of 
 
 •nd, it is tiiat 
 I, or (kand 
 able hour in 
 in of North 
 berry Head, 
 of the Syd- 
 iit Aconi. 
 ■ Great Bras 
 nd up close 
 twelve hun- 
 
 m of Goldr 
 alities of the 
 
 manifest to 
 From the 
 Iters seldom 
 id are over- 
 , and dotted 
 indous chalk 
 
 like marble 
 
 BADDECK. 
 
 At tile broadest portion of Little Bras d'Or Lake a l)ay nnis up into 
 the hills, at the entrance of which stands the finest residence on tiie 
 island, tlie summer home of Prof. liell, the inventor of the American 
 telephone ; on the other side, behind a forest-covered island and its 
 lighthouse, a straggling town with spires outlined against <lark hills ; it 
 is Baddeck, known to all well-read Americans through Charles Dudley 
 Warner's " Baddeck and that Sort of Thing." 
 
 To this out of the 
 way, jiriniitive, i)ictur- 
 escjue town have come a 
 few cultured .Americans, 
 who are forming a social 
 nucleus to which will be 
 aikled the choicest spirits 
 of the resort that is to 
 be. Perhaps not a great 
 and fashionable resort, 
 but such as will attract 
 and hold the lover of 
 Nature for her own sake. 
 The motto of this pio- 
 neer settlement seems 
 to be, "Once Baddeck, 
 always Baddeck." 
 
 The origin of this 
 odd name is the Indian 
 " Bedek," adapted by 
 French as Bedeque. The 
 town itself is not alluring, 
 but its environment may 
 be described in most ex- 
 travagant .v.rms. Within 
 easy distances are most 
 glorious mountain and 
 lake scenery ; a score of 
 
 mountain streams and rivers fill the air with singing and roaring, and 
 yield lusty trout and salmon. The famed Margaree River, first of 
 Nova Scotian salmon streams, lies twenty miles away ; St. Anne's Bay. 
 most beautiful of all on the island, but ten miles northeasterly ; and 
 
 I 
 
 75 
 
in- 1 
 
 ^■--^^•^ ^ ■iiM f ii ff in a U tii u 
 
 lieyund, the wild iiorllicrii sliorc slretdKs away to Int,Miiisli, buunil 
 l)y a line of stiipciitlons cliffs and mountains, back of tlicni the vast 
 tal.lelands of Victoria County, lovered with iniineval forests, over 
 
 which roam tnidisturbed great 
 herds of caribou. A drive along 
 this coast, or, better, a journey 
 afoot, depiudiiig on the warm and 
 homely hosjiitalily of tlie Ciaelic 
 settlers, reveals a mode of living 
 that for absolute primitiveness is 
 nowhere e(inalled on our continent. 
 Here are seen grinding of corn 
 by hand-stones, timber hewn in a 
 similar crude manner, or sawn by 
 mills, home made ; while from 
 every door comes the sound of 
 spinning-wheel or click of shuttle 
 in the family loom. Not less 
 interesting are the Micmac In- 
 dians, who pitch their wigwams on the hillside at Haddeck, their per- 
 manent settlements being at Indian Cove and at Kscasoni near drand 
 Narrows. 
 
 WHYCOCOMAGH. 
 
 Leaving Baddeck and following the steamer route through St. Pat- 
 rick's Channel and Little Narrows leads one to the western extremity of 
 the lake, and into the trossach scenery of the bay and town of Whyco- 
 comagh. If its name is a stumbling-block, let nothing else deter from 
 finding it out. It is a gem of purest quality, a bit of Scotland, it would 
 seem, imported with the hardy Scot as a reminder of his native bens 
 and lochs. 
 
 From here are reached the inland lake of Ainslie, and the trout 
 streams that flow from and into it ; more distant are the Gulf shore 
 towns and coal areas soon to be reached by rail of Fort Hood and 
 Mabou, and away up north in for Inverness County the French Acadian 
 fishing port of Cheticamp. It may not be amiss to add that in this 
 town, which the natives call " Hogomah " for brevity, is a comfortable 
 and attractive hotel, that provides all the game delicacies in their season. 
 
 Having briefly hinted at the wealth of good things that nature has 
 bestowed on "this land whereon the sun first shines," we reluctantly 
 
 76 
 
nish, bound 
 LMU tlic vast 
 'orcsts, over 
 rhetl great 
 
 drive along 
 . a journey 
 ie warm anil 
 
 tlie Ciaelic 
 Ilk' of living 
 iiitiveness is 
 urrontinent. 
 ing of corn 
 ■r hewn in a 
 
 or sawn by 
 
 while from 
 le sound of 
 k of shuttle 
 . Not less 
 Micmac In- 
 k, their per- 
 
 near drand 
 
 lugh St. Pat- 
 extremity of 
 1 of Whyco- 
 i deter from 
 uid, it would 
 native bens 
 
 nd the trout 
 
 ; Gulf shore 
 
 t Hood and 
 
 :nch Acadian 
 
 that in this 
 
 comfortable 
 
 their season. 
 
 it nature has 
 
 e reluctantly 
 
 leave it l)y the portion of railway whidi we omitted in our steamer 
 detour through the lakes. From ('.rand Narrows, then, to Mawkesbury, 
 we ( rossed first the great iron bridge of the government, through whi.h 
 vessels are allowed to i)ass at all times ex. ept wiien dosed for trains, 
 and along the irregular shore, catching aggravating glimpses of bay and 
 island, distant mountain an.l broad lake ; past stations that seemingly 
 have no excuse for being, till we learn tliat scores of little settlements 
 inland find through them an outlet from their isolation. 
 
 Orangedale is the station for that town whose name we fear to speak, 
 Whycocomagh, and the terminal of the railway imder construction that 
 is to tap the great coal areas northward, to oi)en also the wonderfully 
 beautifully country of the .\inslie region. From Orangedale westward 
 the view is tame and uninteresting, till Cape Porcupine breaks upon the 
 view again, and the aninuited panorama of Strait of t'anso. and busy 
 Port Hawkesbury, where our transfer steamer is waiting to bear us across 
 to the Scotian mainland, to scenes of old .Xcadia, — • 
 
 " Wlicie lilomidon's blue crest looks down upon the v.illcy land, 
 And the nre.it waves of Kundy lap the gray stones on the strand ; 
 Where sunny Gaspereaux sweeps on amid the upple-trees, 
 And the blue waves of Minas chant a rcc|iiiein to the breeze." 
 
 77 
 
liliillV \N1> HIE ANNAHOl IS IIAnIN -ANNAPOLIS AND IHK VAI.IKV 
 1 VANdKI.INKS I.AND-MINAS llASIN — HAI.H'AX, AND 
 THK SOI Til SHOKi;. 
 
 \v the traveller has Ni)va Scutia for the objective pointy 
 the voyage i)ar excellence is by the shore route we have 
 tlescribecl to St. John ; thence across the Hay of Fundy, 
 by steamer " Monticello," through the Digbydut to 
 (juaint old I)igl)y town, aiul through Annapolis liasin to 
 Annapolis. 
 
 The above steamer lies at its wharf adjoining that of the Interna- 
 tional Company, thus obviating disagreeable transfers across town. 
 
 Many unpleasant things are said of Fundy's temper, but in its sum- 
 mer moods it gives them all the lie, whatever its actions may be in other 
 seasons when the elements combine with the tides to try men's souls; 
 inileed a more charming sail than that across to .Annapolis could scarce 
 be imagined ; in miles it is sixty, in time four anil one half hours. 
 
 The Acadian shore first reveals itself in little purplish mounds that 
 rest like cK .diets along the dim hori/on, then a long line of cliff-bound 
 shores melting away into nothingness at either end, finally as a great 
 mountain wall, into whose sides a narrow i)ortal opens, and toward which 
 our good steamer steadily ploughs. .Xs we run between the rugged 
 shores. I'oint Prim and its light on the one hand, the little fishing town 
 of Lower (Iranville on the other, a scene of (piite opposite and entirely 
 unifpie loveliness opens out. This is the foir land and placid waters 
 that greeted Champlain and De Monts, wooing them to its shores, and 
 giving to the world those leaves in history inscribed with the romantic 
 annals of Port Royal. 
 
,'AI.I.KY- 
 [D 
 
 jectivc point 
 oute we liave 
 ay ot" Fiimly, 
 )igl)y (lilt to 
 )olis IJasin to 
 
 the Interna- 
 i town, 
 t in its sum- 
 y be in other 
 men's souls ; 
 could scarce 
 hours. 
 
 mounds that 
 )f cliff-bound 
 ly as a great 
 toward wiiich 
 1 the rugged 
 fishing town 
 and entirely 
 placid waters 
 s shores, and 
 the romantic 
 

■ari.rtrJUmm^ 
 
 v&ra'liraiufcli fc-w 
 
 a-i*"- •'-lilB'jMiVir 
 
 DIGBY AND ANNAPOLIS BASIN. 
 
 l-'roiii Hryer Island, fifty miles southwest, to hoary Cape Hlomidon, 
 eighty miles northeasterly, stretches a mountain bulwark sheltering from 
 fog and tempest St. Mary's Bay, Annapolis Basin, the fruitful valleys of 
 Annapolis and Cornwallis, the broad acres of Grand Pr^, and the green 
 banks of the Avon. 
 
 M the foot of the basin little Digby sits in the sunshine and spreads 
 its ruddy beach along the tide, surrountled by towering hills, except 
 where well-tilied slopes give place. It is a quaint, homy town, old 
 colonial houses here and there, a cluster of gray and mossy fishing huts 
 nestling by the cove and guns that never roar on the bluffs that face the 
 pier. Two gooil and (]uiet houses entertain the traveller ; a half-dozen 
 picturesque roads lure him out into the country, and the railway leads 
 to far western Yarmouth town along the beautiful bay of St. Maiy's, 
 and out again in view of Fundy ; back of it, a little way only, stretch 
 illimitable forests, with silent lakes and all that live therein to attract the 
 rod or gun. The rail also skirts the bay if one chooses to go that way, 
 through Bear River Village, Pleasant Cove, and half a score of thrifty 
 hamlets to Annapolis. 
 
 Continuing by steamer, we pass Bear Island mid-basin, and up the 
 gradually narrowing bay lined with farms that teem with fruitfulness and 
 plenty, overlooked by the slopes of the North Mountains and the spires 
 of Granville's churches. .After twenty miles of delightful sailing we 
 approach the storied old town and huge fortifications of 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 ANNAPOLIS, 
 
 tile Port Royal of ye olden time, and the focal point around which 
 clusters more history than any town in this Acadian Valley into which 
 we are entering. Founded by Poutrincourt in 1604, to whom it was 
 granted, it was soon abandoned, to be resettled by the Jesuits later, 
 demolished by the English in 16 13, and again partially rebuilt by Bien- 
 court, who kept alive a fur-trading post till Acadia's restoration to the 
 French in 1632. 
 
 For a century and a half Port Royal was tossed back and forth 
 between the rival powers, till its final capture by the New England 
 colonists, after which it became Annapolis Royal and the English strong- 
 hold of Acadia. The discontented Acadians and Indian allies main- 
 tained a petty siege for forty years after, until that tragic but necessary 
 event which we have learned more generally from Longfellow's idyll than 
 
 80 
 
le Blomidon, 
 altering from 
 fill valleys of 
 nd the green 
 
 and spreads 
 
 hills, except 
 
 ny town, old 
 
 y fishing huts 
 
 that face the 
 
 a half-dozen 
 
 railway leads 
 
 f St. Maiy's, 
 
 only, stretch 
 
 to attract the 
 
 go that way, 
 
 are of thrifty 
 
 , and up the 
 litfulness and 
 nd the spires 
 111 sailing we 
 
 iround which 
 ey into which 
 whom it was 
 Jesuits later, 
 juilt by Bien- 
 iration to the 
 
 ick and forth 
 Mew England 
 nglish strong- 
 1 allies niain- 
 but necessary 
 )w's idyll than 
 
 from other sources, and which brought peace, to be broken only by tiiat 
 saucy and si)unky attack by Americans in 1781, who spiked the guns, 
 locked the villagers uj) in the block house, and proceeded to decorate 
 with vermilion whatever the town contained. 
 
 From tiie grassy ramparts which are seen on approaching the town 
 now are heard the mellow blast from browsing kine, whose rustic forms 
 replace the dismounted guns. The old block house but recently suc- 
 cumbed to the destroyer's hand ; the French magazine and ancient 
 barracks will doubtless follow them, unprotected as they are by a care- 
 less community. 
 
 The present .Annapolis invites the loiterer, with its shady streets and 
 quaint residences, its air of anticpiity and the indefinable sentiment that 
 always clings about such spots. The Dominion .Atlantic Railway 
 here extends to the landing, its trains waiting to speed the tourist into 
 Acadia's heart, the land of Evangeline, " The Tourists' Paradise," as its 
 dainty little guide-book calls it. 
 
 If a few days can be given to this fair region, a drive or climb over 
 North Mountain down to the rugged cliffs on the Fundy shore should be 
 taken, another through the marshes and orchards of Annapolis, for — 
 
 " Fair is I'ort Koyal River 
 In tile Acadian land ; 
 It flows through verdant meadows, 
 Widespread on either hand "; 
 
 and again along little Lequille River to the village of legendary fame ; 
 while to the fisherman and gunner no words can fitly tell the treasures 
 that lie along the wilderness road all the way to Liverpool and Port 
 Metway. Lakes, streams, virgin forest, all are there in primal condition. 
 The companion of the idle hour should be Miss McLeod's " Stories of 
 the Land of Evangeline," many of whose scenes are laid just here. 
 
 ANNAPOLIS VALLEY. 
 
 From Annapolis to Windsor is the trtte Evangeline land, " the land 
 flowing with milk and honey" ; in May a garden of apple-blossoms, in 
 October an orchard of ripening fruit, and always radiant in a climate fit 
 for the gods. One is carried in the luxurious cars of the " Flying Blue- 
 nose " express, drawn by " Basil," the blacksmith, or " Gabriel," the 
 lover, is disappointed not to see an Acadian peasant collecting fares, 
 instead of the gentlemanly conductor in regulation uniform, and looks, 
 as did Warner, for the signboard reading, " Look out for Evangeline 
 while the bell rings .' " How little our gentle poet knew what potent 
 advertising he was doing for railroad managers ! 
 
 81 
 
If" 
 
 ■- l?.«fc^ai?SrS!T't£?*^TB 
 
 m ■ 
 
 n 
 
 I 
 
 
 The beautiful marshes, bordered by solid masses of bronze-green 
 foliage, and varying with the ever-changing cloud shadows from gold to 
 purple, serve as a ground on which the tidal stream executes silvery 
 patterns for miles, until lost in thread-like rivulets among the hillr. 
 
 North Mountain always fills the background, its broad slopes covered 
 with an applique of patches of woodland green and tawny fields, with 
 now anil then a bit of winding road or gleaming farmhouse adding a 
 touch of light. 
 
 Bridgetown is the only considerable town en route to Kentville, and 
 looks for all the world like a smart American village, with its covered 
 bridge and Gothic spire. At Middleton the Nova Scotia Central Rail- 
 way, the only one except that by which we are travelling to reach the 
 
 82 
 
;s of bronze-green 
 tlows from gold to 
 m executes silvery 
 long the hillr. 
 ■oacl slopes covered 
 i tawny fields, with 
 irrnhouse adding a 
 
 • to Kentville, and 
 e, with its covered 
 Scotia Central Rail- 
 elling to reach the 
 
 •^i--" 
 
 :^'^. 
 
 south shore, branches off for Lunenburg, IJridgewatcr, and the regions of 
 beauty in their vicinity, chiefest of which is Mahone Hay, with its mul- 
 titude of islands, silvery beaches, and rocky iieadlands. 
 
 Leaving Middleton, the river gra<lually dwindles, settlements become 
 fewer and smaller, then the Cornwallis begins, leading onward to Minas 
 Basin district, its dike lands and Acadian villages. 
 
 KENTVILLE, WOLFVILLE, GRAND PRE 
 
 The railway centre of the " Land of Kvangeline Route," as much also 
 the commercial centre of Kings County, the terminal o. the railway 
 running to Kingsport, the beautiful valley of the Canard River, and old 
 Blomidon's territory, convenient to the beautiful C.aspereaux Lakes and 
 the Blue Mountains just south, is Kentville. 
 
 More attractive, less commercial, pre-eminently scholastic, and 
 nearer the Grand Pr6 fields is VVolfville. It staniis on the edge of the 
 marsh, partly on a lovely hillside, which overlooks the Basin of Minas 
 and Blomidon on one side, the fairyland of the Gaspereaux on the other. 
 The handsome buildings of Acadia College and two or three prei)ara- 
 tory schools occupy the most commanding site in town, whose outlook 
 is a liberal education in itself. 
 
 Here one can wander at will over the fields reclaimed by the .Acadian 
 peasants, follow for miles the dikes that stay the tides in their mad 
 advance, and live under the spell that poesy has woven about these 
 waters : — 
 
 " A grievous stream, that to and fro 
 Athrough the fields of Acadie 
 Goes wandering, as if to know 
 Why one beloved tace should be 
 So long from home and Acadie." 
 
 Standing on the dikes at high tide, on one hand are glassy miles of 
 flood, on the other rippling fields of ripening harvests, or contented 
 herds which crop the rich sward, — a contrast unique and strange, whose 
 strangeness lessens not after many visits. 
 
 Three miles away is the dreamy hamlet of Grand Pr^, nestling 
 among elms and apple-trees, keeping alive the name bestowed by those 
 people whom history has proven not undeserving of their fate, but 
 whose memories live in romance like dream faces, undyingly ; best 
 described in the poet's own lines : — 
 
 " In the Ac.idian land, on the shores of the Basin of Minas, 
 Distant, secluded, still, the little village of Grand Pre 
 Lay in the fruitful valley. Vast meadows stretched to the eastward 
 Giving the village its name, and pasture to flocks without number. 
 
 83 
 
 1 
 
West ami s.mth there were fields ..f tlax. and orchards and crnhelds 
 Spreading alar and nnfence.l oVr the pUun ; and away to tlie northward 
 ISIoM.idon rose, and the forests old, and aloft on the mountanis 
 Seafo«s pitched their tents, and mists from the mighty Atlantic _ 
 Looked on the happy valley, but ne'er from their station descended. 
 
 Close bv the railway are the imlistinct remains ..f the ancient town, 
 willows ma;king the line of the street, an old well, the village s.inare ; 
 over the meadows at Barton Landing is the shore whence sailed the 
 exiled band. Passing through the village, with here and there a home 
 built bv Puritan settlers. an<l their .luaint colonial church, one soon 
 reaches the stimmer home of Judge Weatherbee, "St. Kulalie," grace- 
 fullv named, where Gaspereaux River again is seen, and .ndistmct traces 
 of the highway of the Acadians, winding down to the vale •' Amitl its 
 yellowing sea of flowers." a few gnarled apple-trees preserved by loving 
 hands, remnants of broken homes. 
 
 " Ye exiled sons of lily France ! 
 
 This is no more your dwelling place ; 
 
 But oft as purple eventide 
 
 Mathcs all these hills in fire and dew. 
 Some wanderer by the river-side 
 
 Shall drop a tear and dream of you." 
 
 MINAS BASIN. 
 
 If the \nnapolis Valley is a spot to lure and detain for indefinite 
 periods the traveller, then the Basin of Minas with its northern shore, 
 amazing, striking, exhilarating, calls loudly for an equal share of atten- 
 tion Accessible by the steamer leaving Hantsport, or the Evangeline 
 Navigation Company's line from Kingsport to Parrsboro', the finest and 
 most awe-inspiring views of Blomidon from all sides are obtained. The 
 latter company's steamer runs out under the cape, and around it into 
 full view of the entire basin. .Across the bay are the noble Cobequid 
 Mountains, Sugar Loaf dominating the range ; at their feet the glowing 
 reddish and white masses of the Five Islands, and great cliffs of Frazers 
 Head, especially interesting to an artist or geologist. Following the 
 shore westward the eye rests on distant Parrsboro' first, then on Par- 
 tridge Island, Cape Sharp, Ram Head, fully sustaining its right to such 
 a name, and far away the receding curves of Greville B^)'- ^om out 
 which looms the majestic headlands of Cape Spencer and Cap D Or, 
 terminals of the great Peninsula of Cumberland County. 
 
 When midway of the basin, Blomidon discloses all the columns of 
 its basaltic formation, clothed, as befits a 'dngl/ form, in purple hues ; 
 
 84 
 
[1 cnniliflds 
 tlic northward 
 tains 
 tlantic 
 Ifsccndcd." 
 
 le ancient town, 
 e village s<niare ; 
 hence sailed the 
 ml there a home 
 hurch, one soon 
 ;. Kulalie," grace- 
 :l indistinct traces 
 e vale " Aniid its 
 eserved by lo\ing 
 
 
 tain for indefinite 
 ts northern shore, 
 lal share of atten- 
 or the Evangeline 
 iro', the finest and 
 ire obtained. The 
 md around it into 
 le noble Cobequid 
 ir feet the glowing 
 :at cliffs of Frazer's 
 it. Following the 
 first, then on Par- 
 g its right to such 
 alle Bay, from out 
 :er and Cap D'Or, 
 
 mty. 
 
 all the columns of 
 m, in purple hues ; 
 
 
 ^^%-^"^ 
 
 adjoining it is 
 still another 
 gigantic freak of nature, 
 Cape Split, a detached 
 column of rock like a 
 monument to some 
 fallen aboriginal war- 
 rior, defying all time 
 and elements. Between 
 it and Cape Sharp, less 
 than three miles away, the 
 savage currents of incoming 
 and outgoing tides snarl and roar. 
 Everything here is on a inagnificent 
 scale. Little wonder that it should 
 have been the home of Gluska]), 
 to the Indian's fancy, and the 
 scene of many of his wondrous 
 carousals and feats 1 Arriving at 
 Parrsboro', the visitor will find a 
 comfortable hotel, and should spend time enough to drive along the 
 truly remarkable shores to Economy on one side and Advocate Harbor 
 on the other, and the great coal mines inland. Rail connection is from 
 here made with the Intercolonial — as noted in a former section — at 
 Spring Hill Junction. 
 
 85 
 
 : 
 
 I 
 
 
 \ 
 
WINDSOR. 
 
 Leaving Grand I'rc^ or Wolfville the route loa<ls tlirough the Inisy 
 little shipbuilding town of Hantsport, where one may see oftentimes a 
 score of vessels reclining at various angles on tiie muddy banks, or float- 
 ing well up to the level of the marshes, as the tide may determine, 
 crosses the broad waters of the Avon and stops at one of the most 
 interesting and beautiful towns in Nova Scotia, Windsor. 
 
 Of course every guide-book ever written telis you that " Sam Slick " 
 lived here, that on the hill near the station stand the block house, maga- 
 zine, and barracks of Fort Kdward, with Annapolis' ruins — the possession 
 of the Crown ; that King's College, oldest of B:ngland's colonial univer- 
 sities, is here, dating from i 790, and that it was one of the oldest and 
 largest of the Acadian settlements ; but it cannot convey to you the 
 subtle charm of the landscape, attaining its fullest expression as seen 
 from the college grounds, nor put into adequate Knglish the foreign air 
 that pervades the place ; in the latter respect it approaches Halifax, 
 from which it is distant forty-six miles. 
 
 One's first impression of Windsor may not be pleasing, as the old 
 portion near the river is more picturesciue than tidy ; its post-office and 
 court house are promises of better things to come. It will be a matter 
 of surprise to learn that this is third among ship owning towns in Canada, 
 and that its gold mine, a few miles south, is actually a paying invest- 
 ment. The most novel effects of the tides are again seen here. Warner 
 remarked that he " never knew before how much water adds to a river ! " 
 It may not be amiss to mention that bne of Canada's first poets, widely 
 read in the United States, C. G. D. Roberts, has his home here, occupy- 
 ing the chair of English Literature in King's College. 
 
 The journey hence to Halifax is not interesting although brief, leading 
 through wilderness and flat lantls. 
 
 HALIFAX. 
 
 This interesting city deserves a long and complete chapter by itself, 
 and it is fitting that it should serve as a climax to all that has gone 
 before. Its chief interest to the visiting American is its decided English 
 tone and aspect ; in this particular it is perhaps more individual than 
 any other Canadian city, save Montreal. 
 
 Possessed of one of the finest harbors of the world, finer than any on 
 the Atlantic coast at least, and with a system of fortifications most com- 
 
 86 
 
rough the Inisy 
 ;e oftentimes a 
 banks, or float- 
 may determine, 
 ic of the most 
 
 It " Sam Slick " 
 :k house, maga- 
 — the possession 
 colonial univer- 
 
 the oldest and 
 vey to you the 
 iression as seen 
 
 the foreign air 
 oaches Halifax, 
 
 sing, as the old 
 
 post-office and 
 
 will be a matter 
 
 owns in Canada, 
 
 I paying invest- 
 
 II here. Warner 
 idds to a river !" 
 •St poets, widely 
 le here, occupy- 
 
 igh brief, leading 
 
 chapter by itself, 
 
 1 that has gone 
 
 decided English 
 
 individual than 
 
 finer than any on 
 itions most com- 
 
 plete and redoubtable in the New World, Halifax is easily .pieen of the 
 northern seas and secure from the attacks of any maritime power. 
 
 Though less ancient than the i)ort of La Have on the southern shore, 
 and less rich in history, Halifox had the advantaj^e in 1749 "f l>eginnmg 
 its existence with a colony of over twenty-five hundred, which m six 
 months had grown to five thousand, aiul in 1894 something like ten 
 times as many souls. It is beautiful for situation, overlooking its harbor 
 and the Bedford Hasin in either direction, and graced by many solid 
 and noble civic and ecclesiastic buildings, with streets that strongly sug- 
 gest corners of London or Edinburgh. 
 
 The Haligonian, when approached by proper letters of mtroduction, 
 is one of the most delightful entertainers possible, otherwise he is 
 inclined to be exclusive One sees on the public thoroughfares numer- 
 ous well-dressed men and women, anwng whom the reilcoat of the regu- 
 lars mingles in pleasin? contrast of color. The Public Ciardens are 
 noteworthy and famous :ll through the north, and at times, when the 
 fine military band plays, with the accompanying illuminations and listen- 
 ing crowds, is a scene of great brilliancy and animation. 
 
 It is seldom vouchsafed a stranger to enter the ramparts of the cita- 
 del or the works and batteries in the harbor, lest he be especially 
 favored, but it is possible and very interesting to attend the military 
 services at Garrison Chapel, to visit the old church of St. Paul's, the 
 Cathedral, the Parliament buildings, the Point Pleasant Park, the Ter- 
 race; and on early morning of a Wednesday and Saturday, the Green 
 
 Market. 
 
 The opportunities for getting away from Halifax by water are numer- 
 ous, whether for Europe or the States, Newfoundland, Cape Breton, St. 
 Pierre, or Quebec ; or the fair bays and resorts that line the still fairer 
 South Shore, St. Margaret's Bay, incomparable Mahone Bay, Chester, 
 Lunenburg, La Have, Liverpool, Shelburne, and a host of other towns 
 equally attractive. Chester is a favorite resort of Haligomans and 
 people from the Southern States; Lunenburg is large, thriving, and 
 almost exclusively German ; Bridgewater on the La Have is rich in 
 history and legends of the Acadians, and offers great inducements to the 
 canoeist or fisherman in its rivers and lakes inland. 
 
 IN CONCLUSION. 
 
 We have omitted much, regretfully, necessarily have left unsaid that 
 which we ought to have said, and said that which we ought not to have 
 
 87 
 
 I 
 
 ] 
 
 i 
 
li 
 it 
 
 \\- 
 
 --■ f .- 
 
 said, — jicrhaps. This much should lie said : travel to the Provinces and 
 through them is not what it onie was, a matter of labor and tribulation ; 
 the genius of modern jjrogress has followed the exile of the Acadian 
 anil the songs of the poet. Transportation has become notetl for 
 " sjieed and comfort and safety." In the land of the " Uluen.)se " and 
 " Ituckwheat " the vacatum fund can be made to go a long way, for 
 board -verywherc is reasonable, exceedingly so, and in most cases good, 
 although plain. A constant improvement in all these particulars is taking 
 place. Sincerely hoping this little book may fulfd its intended mission 
 among vacation planners, it is sent on its way. 
 
 
 Wi'ii I iirrtii 
 
 88 
 
ic Provinces anil 
 anil trihuhition ; 
 of the Acadian 
 ^onie noteil for 
 ' Hlucn )se " and 
 a long way, for 
 nost cases good, 
 ticulars is taking 
 iitended mission 
 
 5^- 
 
 f 
 
 Local Passenger Fares. 
 
 
 
 
 ONE WAY AND RETURN. 
 
 
 I-KOM liOSTON. 
 
 
 • 
 
 ONI 
 
 : WAV. 
 
 KEIIJKN. 
 
 Boston to Annapolis, \.S., via Si. John .... 
 
 56.25 
 
 5ri.oo 
 
 Calais, Me 
 
 J. 00 
 
 9.00 
 
 nigbv, N.S., via .St. Jolin 
 
 6.00 
 
 10.50 
 
 Eastport, Me 
 
 4.25 
 
 8.00 
 
 Portland, Me 
 
 1.00 
 
 2.00 
 
 R()bl)inston, Me • 
 
 5.00 
 
 9.00 
 
 St. Andrew.s, \.U 
 
 5.00 
 
 9.00 
 
 St. John, N.ll 
 
 5.00 
 
 9.00 
 
 FROM roRTLANl). 
 
 
 
 I'ortland to .Xnnapolis, N.S., via St. John 
 
 56.00 
 
 510.50 
 
 Calais, Me 
 
 4- so 
 
 8.00 
 
 Digby, N.S. . . ... 
 
 5.50 
 
 9-75 
 
 " Eastport, Me. 
 
 3-rs 
 
 7.00 
 
 '• Robbinston, Me 
 
 4- so 
 
 8.00 
 
 " St. Andrews, N.H. . . . • • 
 
 4- SO 
 
 8.00 
 
 '• St. John, N.IJ. . » . , i 
 
 4.50 
 
 8.00 
 
 FROM OTHKK POINTS. 
 
 
 
 Calais to St. John, N.B. . .... . 
 
 $1.50 
 
 52.50 
 
 Robbinston to St. John, N.H. . . . . . 
 
 1.50 
 
 2.50 
 
 St. Andrews to St. John, N.B 
 
 t.so 
 
 2.50 
 
 Eastport to St. John, N.B 
 
 1.50 
 
 2.25 
 
 7|y~ The above one-way rates are for limited tickets. Unlimited tickets are 
 sold at an advance. Return tickets are good during the year in which they are 
 purchased. 
 
 The same passenger rates will be in force from July ist to September 2d, via 
 the Boston & Maine R.R. to Portland, thence by steamer, as by steamer direct; 
 and tickets reading "'by steamer" will be accepted via the Boston & Maine R.R. 
 Also, tickets reading "via the R.R." to Portland, thence by steamer, will be ac- 
 cepted by direct steamer from Boston. 
 
 89 
 
r 
 
 n^ 
 
 TAKIFI< OF RATES. 
 
 Ai thl» book goes to preii prevloui to publication of the Company's Summar Rat* 8h««ti, thaw 
 may l)« illght changes In Ih* ratei namtd balcw. Th» right It resarvtd to maka such changes. ^ 
 
 KKSTINATION. 
 
 KkOM IIohTON. KkoM I'.iUTI.ASO.^ 
 
 iUnumitid. Limited. „UHiiMitKi.. I.imukk. 
 
 6.35 
 
 10. 50 
 17.65 
 
 12. uo 
 
 AMIII'.kST, N.S >8-75 
 
 " and return 5I4-65 
 
 Andovir, N.ll 9'30 
 
 " and return IS'45 
 
 Annapolis, N.S T-^S 
 
 " and return ' II -00 
 
 Antigonish, N.S 
 
 " and return 
 
 Aulmrn, Mt!. (M.C. K K.) 2.00 
 
 ((;. T. K'y) a. 00 
 
 Augusta, Me 3'°° 
 
 Aylesford, N.S 
 
 " and return 
 
 BADDIXK, r.ll 1350 
 
 " and return 23.25 
 
 Hath, Me 3. 25 
 
 H.ithiirst, N.H '0'0° f 
 
 " and return 16.45 
 
 Berwick, N.S 7-45 
 
 " and return 12.85 
 
 Bridgetown, N.S 6- 5° 
 
 " and return 1 1 • 50 
 
 CALAIS, Me 6.25 S-°° \ 
 
 " and return 9-oo 
 
 Caledonia, N.S , 
 
 Cambridge, N.S 1 7 -SO 
 
 " and return i3'io 
 
 Campbellton, N.B "00 
 
 " and return 18.00 
 
 Campobello, N.ll S.50 ; 4-50 
 
 " and return 8.50 ■ 
 
 Caribou, N.B. (via River and Rail) 10. oc 
 
 " and return 16.50 
 
 Cliarlottetown, P.E.I «oSo 
 
 " and return I79S 
 
 Chatham, N.B ; 9-50 
 
 " and return 'S'7S 
 
 Crawford House, N.ll 4-50 
 
 DALHOUSIE, N.H 10-95 
 
 " and return 17 '95 
 
 Digby, N.S 700 
 
 " and return 10.50 
 
 Dorchester, N.B • 
 
 " and return '3'^S 
 
 EASTPORT, Me 5-5 
 
 " and return 8.00 
 
 FALMOUTH, N.S 
 
 " and return 14.00 
 
 Fort Fairfield, Me. {via River and Rail). 9.70 
 
 " and return 16.05 
 
 Fredericton, N.B. (via River) 6 00 [ 
 
 " and return 11. co '. 
 
 GRAND PRE, N.S 8.50 750 
 
 " and return 14.00 
 
 6.00 
 
 ■8.25' 
 
 4.25 
 
 7.50 
 
 90 
 
 *8.2S 
 
 la.45 
 
 6.50 
 10.50 
 10.35 
 
 17.40 
 
 $6.00 
 
 7 80 
 11.10 
 
 7'.^o 
 
 9.50 
 IS4S 
 
 795 
 II 35 
 
 7.00 
 10.00 
 
 8.00 
 9.50 
 8.10 
 11.60 
 
 17.00 
 5.00 
 
 7-50 
 9.50 
 
 1 5- 50 
 
 17.25 
 
 9.00 
 
 14 75 
 
 7-4S 
 6.50 
 
 4.50 
 
 10.50 
 4.00 
 
 9.50 
 
 10.45 
 
 16.95 
 
 6.50 
 
 9-75 
 
 'i'2'.k's 
 
 4-75 
 7.00 
 8.70 
 
 14.00 
 9.20 
 
 1505 
 5-50 
 9.50 
 8.50 
 
 13.45 
 
 S-50 
 7-75 
 3-75 
 8.20 
 
 8.00 
 
TARIFF OF RATES. -Continued. 
 
 taU Sheeti, thtrt 
 I luch change). 
 
 K.IM I'llKTI.ANP. 
 UlTBll. LlMITai). 
 
 i\ ::::::::■ 
 
 .80 
 
 • 45 
 
 .50 $6.00 
 
 ■50 
 
 ■»5 
 
 •40 
 
 80 i 7.30 
 
 .10 
 
 I-50 
 
 145 
 
 •95 7-«S 
 
 •35 •••^ 
 
 .00 6.50 
 
 ).00 
 
 ,•75 4-5° 
 
 i.oo 
 
 ).So 8.50 
 
 i.io 7.60 
 
 1.60 
 
 10.50 
 
 7.00 
 
 5.00 4.00 
 
 '•50 
 
 ^•50 ! 
 
 5^S0 
 
 9^S0 
 
 ?-2S 
 
 3.00 
 
 4 75 
 
 0-45 : 
 
 69s ' 
 
 6.50 s^SO 
 
 9-75 i 
 
 7-75 
 
 2-85 \ 
 
 4^75 3-75 
 
 7.00 
 
 8.70 ' 8.20 
 
 4.00 I 
 
 9.20 i 
 
 505 ! 
 
 5-50 I 
 
 9.50 ...^■••. 
 
 8.50 i 8.00 
 
 2-45 
 
 TtESTINATION. 
 
 IUmumitid. 
 
 KhoM I'iiMTLAND. 
 
 HALIFAX. N.S. (via I. C. U'y) Jii.oo f^ifi 
 
 ** iinil return i^.S" 
 
 » (vuT \V. A. K'y) II. OS ; 8.50 
 
 " and return 16.50 | 
 
 Hantsport, N.S 7 -50 
 
 " and return 14.00 
 
 Har. Au liouchc '' ii.6o :........ 
 
 Harcourt, N.H 8-55 
 
 " and return '4'3o 
 
 Heatherton, N.S 10.85 
 
 9.25 
 7.00 
 7.50 
 
 7.05 
 
 LiMITBO. rUNUMITKD., LiMITBD. 
 
 59.00 
 
 #9.50 
 14.50 
 
 9. 30 
 '5. 50 
 
 8.70 
 ia.85 
 1 1, to 
 
 8.05 
 '3'30 
 10,00 
 
 9.00 
 
 8.35 
 
 12.00 
 
 755 
 •0.75 
 
 7.20 
 10.25 
 
 7.70 
 8.20 
 
 14.15 
 
 Hopewell, N.S 05© 
 
 ir.mlton. Me 8.75 | 7-oo 
 
 KKNTVIM.K, N.S 
 
 " and return 13. 5© 
 
 Kingston, N.S 
 
 " and return 12.25 
 
 LAWRKNCETOWN, N.S ; 6.70 
 
 " and return. I1.75 1 
 
 Lewiston, Me 2 . 00 j 
 
 Liverpool, N.S 9-00 
 
 Londonderry, N.S 8.85 
 
 " and return ' I4'65 
 
 MECHANIC FALLS, Me 1 2.30 j 
 
 Metapedia, N.lt ".ao 
 
 " and return '8.35 
 
 Meteghan, N.S \ 7 ■ 'o 
 
 Middleton, N.S 6.85 
 
 " and return 1190 1 
 
 Moncton, N.H 7-65 
 
 " and return 1300 
 
 Montreal, r.Q. (G. T. R'y) 1 »-.50 \ 
 
 (viaP. &0. R'y)....| 8.50 I 
 
 Ri'ulgrave, N.S ' 1 1 . 50 
 
 " and return 18.75 '7'7S 
 
 NEW CASTLE, N.B 930 " " 
 
 " and return ; 15.40 
 
 New Glasgow, N.S 
 
 " and return 
 New Mills, N.B 
 
 " and return <7-4S 
 
 North Conway, N.H 1 3-45 
 
 OLD ORCHARD, Me 2.35 
 
 Oxford, N.S I I 8.7s 
 
 and return \ 14.80 
 
 6.50 
 7'75 
 
 7.05 
 6 70 
 
 10.70 
 
 ■3-3S 
 
 7.25 
 
 7-35 
 10.50 
 
 7-15 
 12.00 
 
 »5'75 
 
 9.25 
 10.60 
 
 11.00 
 
 8.80 
 
 14.40 
 
 9.00 
 
 15-50 
 10.10 
 
 16.45 
 
 PARADISE, N.S 
 Peticodiac, N.B 
 Pictou, N.S 
 
 and return, 
 and return, 
 and return. 
 
 Poland Springs 
 
 Portland, Me 
 
 " and return 
 
 " and return (Kail).. 
 
 Presque Isle, Me. (via River and Rail) 
 
 7.60 
 II. 10 
 
 12.00 
 
 •5-75 
 2.75 
 1.00 
 2.00 
 4.00 
 9.90 
 
 6.60 
 7.00 
 9 25 
 
 Profile House, N.H ! 6.55 
 
 " and return 11. 10 
 
 91 
 
 8.80 
 14.50 
 
 7.10 
 10.10 
 
 6.50 
 11.00 
 
 9.00 
 •5-50 
 
 9.40 
 
 9.50 
 9.00 
 
 6.75 
 6.85 
 
 6.60 
 
r 
 
 TARIFF OF RATES. -Continued. 
 
 
 DESTINATION. 
 
 Pt. Du Chene, N.B. 
 
 Fkom Boston. 
 
 Unlimited.! Limited. 
 
 Fkom Portland. 
 Unlimited, Limited. 
 
 and return. 
 
 $8.00 
 
 513.50 ; $i»-h° 
 
 11.25 
 
 14-35 
 12.40 
 
 5.00 
 
 'siCo' 
 
 7-30 
 
 '93s 
 
 11.60 
 
 9--S 
 6.30 
 
 Pt. Hawkesbury, C.B \...\ i "-fio 
 
 " and return j 18.95 
 
 Pt. Hastings ! i "-65 
 
 " and return ] 19.05 | 
 
 kOBlilNSTON, Me , 6.00 
 
 " and return 9.00 
 
 Round Hill, X.S 
 
 " and return 
 SACKVILLE, N.B 
 
 " and return 
 Salisbury, N.B 
 
 " and return 
 Stewiacke, N.S 
 
 " and return j 15.50 
 
 Straits Canso, N.S. (Pt. Hawksbury) . ■ 
 
 " and return | 19.05 
 
 Summerside, P.E.I | 
 
 " and return I 15.75 
 
 Sussex, N.B 1 
 
 " and return 1 1 . 00 
 
 Sydney, C.B. (all Rail) I 
 
 " and return I9-7S , 
 
 THOMPSON, N.S 8.85 i 
 
 " and return 14.65 : 
 
 Tracadie,N.S i : ii-'o 
 
 Truro, N.S t o-^S 
 
 " and return ; 14.65 ! 
 
 WATERVH.LE, N.S I 7 5° 
 
 " and return > 13.00 
 
 Wentworth, N.S I ! 8.85 
 
 " and return 14-65 1 
 
 Wevmouth, N.S | 6.65 
 
 Wh'ycocomaugh, C.B 14-00 
 
 Wilmot, N.S 
 
 " and return. 
 Windsor, N.S 
 
 " and return. 
 Wolfville, N.S 
 
 " and return 14.00 j 
 
 \VooQ-,tock, N.B. (via Calais) 8.75 j 7-oo 
 
 YARMOUTH, N.S ' 9.<x> ; 8.co 
 
 II. 10 
 
 «7-95 
 II. 15 
 18.10 
 
 5.50 
 8.00 
 
 6.75 
 10.00 
 
 6.80 
 
 11.40 
 
 9.00 
 
 15-50 
 11.10 
 
 17-95 
 
 12.50 
 
 10.00 
 12.00 
 
 18.75 
 8.85 
 
 14-50 
 10.85 
 
 9.50 
 15-50 
 
 7-50 
 11.50 
 
 9.00 
 14. So 
 
 7.88 
 
 $7 50 
 
 4-50 
 6.25 
 8. 10 
 
 12.05 
 14.00 
 
 6 95 
 
 "7-50 
 
 7-5° 
 
 7-45 
 10.55 
 
 8.50 
 14.00 
 
 8.50 
 12.30 
 
 8.25 
 
 7-9S 
 
 5.80 
 
 9.00 
 7.00 
 
 6! 80' 
 
 6.95 
 8.20 
 8.00 
 
 6.50 
 6.00 
 
 and return. ; 13.85 ii.75 
 
 9a 
 
"kom Portland. 
 
 IMITED, 
 
 Limited. 
 
 i.50 
 I. 10 
 
 7'95 
 1.15 
 8.10 
 
 5-50 
 8 00 
 
 $7 50 
 
 
 
 
 4-50 
 
 6.75 
 0.00 
 
 1.40 
 9.00 
 
 5-5° 
 1. 10 
 
 7-95 
 
 6.25 
 
 8.10 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 0.00 
 
 5.80 
 
 
 8.75 
 8.8s 
 4- SO 
 0.8s 
 9.50 
 5-50 
 7-50 
 •■50 
 9.00 
 [4.80 
 7.88 
 
 
 
 
 9.00 
 
 7.00 
 
 6.80 
 
 7-45 
 10.55 
 
 8.50 
 14.00 
 
 8.50 
 12.30 
 
 8.2s 
 
 7-95 
 11.71; 
 
 6.95 
 
 8.20 
 
 8.00 
 
 6.50 
 6.00 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS TOURS. 
 
 No. I. 
 No. 2. 
 No. 3. 
 No. 4- 
 No. 5- 
 
 Nr 6. 
 
 No, 7. 
 
 No. 8. 
 No. g. 
 
 No. 10. 
 
 No. II 
 
 No. 12 
 
 Annapolis and Return. 
 
 Boston to St. John by International S.S. Co.; .St. John to Ann.ipolis by liay of 
 Fundy S.S. Co.; return same route. 
 
 Antigonish, N. S., and Return. 
 llostontoSt. John by International S.S. Co.; St. John to Antigomsh by Intcrcolo- 
 nial R'y ; return same route. 
 
 Calais, Me., and Return. ,,,. , ., . _ „ 
 Hoslon to E.-.5ti)ort by International S.S. Co.; Kastport to Calais by brontier S.I.. 
 Co. ; return same route. 
 
 Campobello, N. B., and Return. 
 Hoston to Kastport by International S.S. Co.; Kastport to Campobello by Canipo- 
 bello S.r.. Co. ; return same route. 
 
 Charlottetown, P. E. I., and Rettorii. 
 
 Ho..ton to St. John by International S S. Co.; St. John -.o Point Du^Chene.by Inter 
 colonial R'y; Point Du Chene to Siimmcrside by Charl 
 • iL .- f'u^,\^,t»tn^ijn Uv P v.. I. R v; return s 
 
 colonial ivy. luiui .... v-. .>...-..■•■■■■■•---■ --- 
 Summerside to Charlottetown by P. K. 1. K y 
 
 rlottetown Pteain Nav. Co. 
 return same route. 
 
 No. 13. 
 No. 14. 
 No. 15. 
 No. 16. 
 
 No. 17. 
 
 No. 18. 
 
 Charlottetown, P E. I., and Return. 
 
 Boston to St John by International S.S. Co.; St. John to Pomt Du Chene by Inter- 
 colonial K'y; Point Du Chene to Summerside by Charlottetown Steam Nav. Co , 
 Sun mers¥e to Charlottetown by P. E. I. R'y; ^''f "''"X„"iM RV Halifax .0 
 lottetown Ste.->m Nav. Co.; Pictou to Halifax by Intercolonial Ky. Halitax to 
 Boston by Canada Atlantic S.S. Line. 
 
 Dieby, N. S., and Return. ^. , , „ , .. , 
 
 Boston to St. John by International S.S. Co.; St. John to Digby by B.ay of Hindy 
 S.S. Co. ; return same route. 
 
 Eastport, Me., and Return. . 
 
 Boston to Eastpo.t by International S.S. Co.; Eastport to Hoston by International 
 
 *''^' ^°' Fort Fairfield and Return. ^ , . , „ , . 
 
 Boston to St lohn by International S.S. Co.: St. John to Fredericton by Star Line 
 sleamers; Fredericton to Fort Fairfield by Canadian Pacihc R'y; return same 
 
 '■°"''' Halifax and Return. ,■ u n r 
 
 Boston to St. John by International S.S. Co.; St. John to Annapolis by B.ay of 
 
 Fundy S.S Co.; Annapolis to Halifax by Dominion Atlantic Ry; return 
 
 same route. Halifax and Return. „ ,, , , , ., 
 
 Boston to St. John by International S.S. Co.; St. John to H.alifax by Intercolonual 
 R'y ; return same route. . _ . 
 
 ' Ht. if ax and Return. , ,., ,^ , , , 
 
 Boston to St. John by Internationai S.S. Co.; St. John to Halifax by ln'"™l™!f' 
 rV: Halifax to'^Annapolis by Dominion , Atlantic Ry: Annapo is to St John 
 by Bay of Fundy S.S. Co.; St. John to Boston by Internation.il S.S. Co.. or 
 
 rice versa. Halifax and Return. „ ,, , , , ., 
 
 BostontoSt.Joh„byIntern.atioii.-,lS.S Co.;.St. John to Halifax by Intercolonial 
 
 R'y; Halifax to Boston by Canada Atlantic h.S. l.ine. 
 
 .fil.oo 
 
 17.65 
 g.oo 
 8.50 
 •7-95 
 
 ao.35 
 
 Kentville and Return. i u u „f 
 
 Boston to St. John by Intemation.al S.S. Co.; St. John, to Annapolis by Hay of 
 
 Fundy S'S-! Co.; Annapolis to Kentville by Dominion Atl.inlic Ry; return 
 
 same route. Montreal and Return. 
 
 Boston to St. John by International S.S. Co.: St. John to Montreal by Intercolonial 
 
 R'y Montre.al to Boston by Canadian Pacific R'y, via Newport. 
 
 Montreal and Return. , , ,■ j- 
 
 Boston to St. John by International S.S. Co.; St. John to Montreal by t-^nadian 
 
 Pacific s'horrUne: Montreal to Boston by Canadian Pacific R'y, via 5,ewport. 
 
 Mulgrave and Return. ■ , . i „ ,i 
 
 Boston to St. John by International's.S. Co.; St. John to Mulgrave by Intercolonual 
 R'y; return same route. 
 
 Newcastle, N. B , and Return. , , , , 
 
 Boston to St. John by International S.S. Co.; St. John to Newcastle by Intercolo- 
 ni.il R'y ; return same route. 
 
 93 
 
 10.50 
 
 8.00 
 16.05 
 
 16.50 
 
 16.50 
 18.00 
 
 16.50 
 13.50 
 26,50 
 2650 
 18.75 
 15.40 
 
MISCELLANEOUS TOURS.— Continued. 
 
 No. 19. Pictou, N. S., and Return. $>S-7S 
 
 lioslon 10 Si. John by Inlernalion.il S.S. Co.; St. John to Pictou by Intcrcoloni.il 
 K'y ; rcmrn s.inie route. 
 No. 30. Portland, Me., and Return. a.oo 
 
 Hoston to Portland by International S.S. Co.; Portland to Hosloii by International 
 S.S. Co. 
 No. 21- Portland, Me., and Return. 4 00 
 
 lioston to Portland by International S.S, Co.; Portland 10 Hoston by lioslon ^ 
 Maine R.K.; if limited ticket, $3.50. 
 
 No. 22. Sidney, C. B., and Return. 23.75 
 
 lioston to St. John by International S.S. Co.; St. John to Mulgrave by Intercolonial 
 R'y; Mufgr.ive to Sidney by Hras d'Or Lake S S. Co.; return same route. 
 
 No. 23. Sidney, C. B., and Return. 19.75 
 
 lioston to St. John by lntern.->tional S.S. Co.; St. John to Sidney by Intercolonial 
 k'y; return same route. 
 No. 24. St. John and Return. 15.50 
 
 lioston to St. John by International S. S. CV ; St. John to lioston, all rail. 
 
 No. 25. Summeriide, P. B. I., and Return. 15.75 
 
 Boston to St. John by International S.S. Co.; St. John to Point Du Chenc by Inter- 
 colonial K'y; Point iJu Chene to Summerside by Charlottetown Steam Nav. Co.; 
 return same route. 
 No. 36. Truro, N. S., and Return. 14.05 
 
 Boston to St. John by International S.S. Co.; St. John lo Truro by Intercolonial 
 R'y; return same route. 
 No. 27. Three Province* Excuriion. 25.00 
 
 Boston to St. John by International S.S. Co.; St. John to Annapolis by B.ay of 
 Kundy S.S. Co.; Annapolis to Halifax by Dominion Atlantic R'y; H.ilifax to 
 Pictou by Intercolonial R'y; Pictou to Charlottetown by Charlottetown Steam 
 Nav. Co.; Charlottetown to Summerside by P. E. I. R'y; Summerside to Point Du 
 Chene by Charlottetown Steam Nav. Co.; Point Du Chene lo St. John by Inter- 
 colonial R'y; St. John to itoston by International S. S. Co. Tins tour m.iy be 
 reversed, if desired, at same rate. 
 
 No. 38. WindKor and Return. i4-oo 
 
 Boston to St. John by International S.S. Co. ; St. John to Annapolis by Bay of Fundy 
 S.S. Co. ; Annapolis to Windsor by Dominion .Atlantic R'y; return same route. 
 
 No. 29. Yarmouth, N. S., and Return. 13.85 
 
 Boston to St. John by International S.S. Co.; St. lohn to Digby by H.iy of Fundy 
 S.S. Co. ; Digby to Yarmouth by Dominion Atlantic R'y; return same route. 
 
 No. 30. Yarmouth, N. S., and Return. 1950 
 
 Boston to St. John by International S.S. Co. ; St. John to Digby by B.iy of Fundy 
 S.S Co.; Digby to Yarmouth by Dominion Atlantic R'y; Yarmouth to Boston 
 by Yarmouth S.S. Co. 
 
 GENERAL INFORMATION TO PASSENGERS. 
 
 Return Tickets are on sale to all principal points, and a large saving is made 
 by purchasing the same. 
 
 Staterooms and Meals.— Rooms may be engaged in advance upon application by 
 letter or telegram to the local agents of the company. Stateroom berths are 
 not sold by this company. Rooms are Si.oo, S1.50, and $2.00 each. There are 
 also several bridal and family rooms on each steamer, varying in price from 
 $3.00 to $4.00. Meals are served on the American plan, at the following prices : 
 Breakfast or Supper, 50 cents; Dinner, 75 cents. 
 
 Children's Tickets.— Children between the ages of five and rwelve, half fare ; 
 under five, free. 
 
 Redemption of Tickets. — In the purchase of tickets, passengers are reminded 
 that any portion of a ticket not used will be redeemed at its value at the 
 General Agent's Office, Boston, either by mail or upon personal application. 
 This will apply to tickets issued by this company over its connections as well 
 as over its own lines. 
 
 Steamers' Landings. From Boston, the steamers of the St. John line leave the 
 south side of Commercial Wharf. At 1'ortland, the steamers leave Rail- 
 road Wharf, foot of State Street. At Eastport, the steamers of the Inter- 
 national S.S. Co., the Campoljello steamer, the St. Croix River steamer for St. 
 Andrews, Robbinston and Calais, land at same i)ier. At St. John, the com- 
 pany's pier is at Reed's Point. 
 
 94 
 
ntercolonial 
 
 itcrnational 
 
 liosion ^ 
 
 niercolonial 
 ■me. 
 
 ntercolonial 
 
 nc by Inler- 
 » Nav. Co. ; 
 
 ntercolonial 
 
 by Hay of 
 Halifax to 
 :own Steam 
 to Point Dii 
 tin by Inter- 
 lour may be 
 
 ly of Fundy 
 ame route. 
 
 y of Fundy 
 route. 
 
 y of Fundy 
 I to Boston 
 
 $«5-7S 
 z.oo 
 
 400 
 
 !i3-75 
 
 «9-75 
 IJ.50 
 15-7.5 
 
 14-65 
 35.00 
 
 14.00 
 13-85 
 19.50 
 
 ^GERS. 
 
 saving is made 
 
 m application by 
 room berths are 
 ;ach. There are 
 ig in price from 
 Eollowmg prices : 
 
 velve, half fare ; 
 
 rs are reminded 
 its value at the 
 jnal application, 
 nections as well 
 
 hn line leave the 
 iiers leave Rail- 
 :rs of the Inter- 
 r steamer for St. 
 . John, the com- 
 
 Connecting Lines East of Boston. 
 
 SPECIAI. NOTICE. 
 
 The time-tables given below are substantially correct at the time this book goes 
 to press. Changes mav, however, occur when the Summer .\rrangements of the lines 
 go into effect, and passengers are respecttuUy referred to the official publications of 
 the several lines, also to the Pathfinder Railway Guide, published at Boston monthly, 
 and to the Traveller's Official Railway Guide, published monthly at New York, 
 which contain time-tables of all lines in the United States and Canada. 
 
 BOSTON & MAINE RAILROAD. — Trains leaving Boston at 12.30 P. M. 
 (Eastern Division) and i. 00 P.M. (Western Division) connect with the steamers 
 of the International Steamship Co. at Portland. Trains for Boston leave Port- 
 land (Western Division) at 7.CX) A.M., 12.40 and 3.30 P.M., and ( on the Eastern 
 Division) at 2.00 and 9.00 A.M., i.oo and 6.00 P.M. 
 
 WESTERN DIVISION LOCAL TRAINS, FROM PORTLAND, 
 For Old Orchard Beach, Saco, Biddeford, Kennebunk and intermediate stations, 
 7.00 A.M., I' 40, 3.30, 5.15 and 6.20 P.M. For Wells Beach, 7.00 A.M., and 3.30 
 and 5.15 P.M. For North Berwick, Great Falls and Dover, 7.00 A.M., 12.40, 3.30 
 and 5.15 P.M. For South Newmarket Junction, Exeter, Haverhill, Lawrence and 
 Lowell, 7.00 A.M., 12.40 and 3.30 P.M. For Rochester, Farmington, Alton Bay and 
 Wolfeboro, 12.40 and 3.30 P.NL For Manchester and Concord, 7.00 A.M., and 
 3.30 P.M. 
 
 EASTERN DIVISION TRAINS 
 
 Leave Portland at 2.00 A.M. for Boston ( night Pullman ), stopping at Biddeford, 
 Kittery, Portsmouth, Newburyport, Ipswich, Salem and Lynn. 
 
 Leave Portland for Boston and important way stations at 9.00 A.M. 
 
 Leave Portland i.oo P.M. for Boston, stopping at way stations to Portsmouth. 
 
 Leave Portland 8.45 A.M. for Cape Elizabeth. 
 
 Leave Portland at 6 P.M. (express for Boston), stopping only at principal points. 
 
 BOOTHBAY, MOUSE AND SQUIRREL ISLANDS. — (Twenty-five 
 miles.) (Eastern Steamboat Co.) Steamers leave Bath, Me., daily (except 
 Sunday). 
 
 95 
 
_ L 
 
 CONNKCTING LINES KAST OF ISOSTON - Cc////««t'./. 
 
 BAY OF FUNDY STEAMSHIP CO.— (Foit\ five miles.) (St. John, 
 Digby, Nova Scotia Line.) Steamers, iluring July and August, leave St. John 
 every day (except Sunday) at 7.30 A.M., local St. John time, for Digby, connect\ig 
 for all parts of Western Nova Scotia. Returning, leave Digby same afternoon, 
 arriving at St. John about 5.00 P.M. 
 
 BAY DE CHALEUR, N. B. — Steamer " Admir.il " leaves Dalhousie 
 (north shore of N. 15.) every Wednesday and Saturday morning for (;asi)e, N.H., 
 calling at intermediate ports. Returning, leaves Gaspe Monday and Thursday 
 mornings. 
 
 CAMPOBBLLO STEAMBOAT CO. — (One and one-half miles.) 
 Steamers of the Ferry companies for the island of Campobello leave E.istport at 
 frequent intervals during the day. 
 
 THE BRAS D'OR STEAM NAVIGATION CO., Limited. Steamer 
 " Marion" leaves Sydney at 9.00 A.M., North Sydney at 10.00 A.M., Mondays and 
 Thursdays, for St. Peter's Canal, calling at New Campbellton, Hig Bras d'Or, 
 Boularderie, Baddeck, Grand Narrows and Irish Cove, connecting with the "Blue 
 Hill" at St. Peter's for Mulgrave. Returning, leaves St. Peter's Canal, Tuesday 
 and Friday mornings for Sydney, calling at the above-named points, and calling at 
 Whycocomagh and Little Narrows Friday. Leaves Sydney 3.00 P.M., North 
 Sydney 4.00 P.M., Tuesdays for Whycocomagh ; leaves Whycocomagh Wednesday 
 morning for Sydney. 
 
 Steamer "Blue Hill" leaves Mulgrave daily (Sunday excepted) after arrival of 
 train from the west, for Grandique and St. Peter's, connecting with "Marion" Mon- 
 day and Thursday evenings for Sydney and above points. 
 
 Steamer " May Queen " leaves Baddeck, morning and evening, for Grand Nar- 
 rows, connecting with express train to and from Sydney and Point Tupper. Leaves 
 Grand Narrows Tuesdays, after arrival of train from Sydney, for Big Pond and 
 East Bay, and Wednesdays and Fridays for Irish Cove. 
 
 Steamer " Peerless " makes four trips daily between Sydney and North Sydney. 
 
 FRONTIER STEAMBOAT CO. — (Thirty miles.) (Eastport, St. 
 Andrews, Robbinston, Calais — opp. St. Stephen.) Steamer "Rose Stan- 
 dish " runs in regular connection with the steamers of the International Steamship 
 Co. from Eastport, touching the above-named points on the St. Croix River. 
 
 GRAND TRUNK RAILWAY. — For Auburn and Lewiston, 7.10 and 
 8.00 A.M., 1. 10, 1.30 .ind 5.15 P.M. For Gorham, N.H., 8.00 A.M., 1.30 and 
 5.15 P.M. For Montreal and Chicago, 8.00 A.M., and 1.30 P.M. 
 
 SHORE LINE RAILWAY. — ( Between St. John, St. George and St. 
 Stephen. N. B. ) Trains leave Carleton ( ferry from St. John) daily (Sundays 
 excepted ) at 7.50 A.M. 
 
 INTERCOLONIAL RAILWAY. — Trains of this road leave St. John 
 morning and afternoon for Moncton, Campbellton, Amherst, Truro, Halifax, and all 
 important stations on main line both north and south of Moncton. For hours of 
 leaving, see official time-cards. 
 
 96 
 
 ■MMtiMIM 
 
inueJ. 
 
 s.) (St. John, 
 , leave St. John 
 gbv, coiinect'iig 
 same afternoon, 
 
 aves Ualhoiisie 
 or Gasi)e, N.H., 
 ■ and Thursday 
 
 )ne-half miles.) 
 ive Eastport at 
 
 lited. Steamer 
 [., Mondays and 
 Hig Bras d'Or, 
 with the " Blue 
 Canal, Tuesday 
 ;s, and calling at 
 
 00 P.M., North 
 agh Wednesday 
 
 after arrival of 
 " Marion " Mon- 
 
 for Grand Nar- 
 I'upper. Leaves 
 • Big I'ond and 
 
 1 North Sydney. 
 
 (Eastport, St. 
 
 ler " Rose Stan- 
 tionat .Steamship 
 oix River. 
 
 dston, 7.10 and 
 A.M., 1.30 and 
 
 3eorge and St. 
 
 daily (Sundays 
 
 leave St. John 
 , Halifax, and all 
 . For hours of 
 
 CONNKCTING LINKS i;Asr OK liOSToX — t'.v/// ////,■,/. 
 
 LUBECAND EASTPORT FERRY. —(Three miles.) Kerry steamers 
 leave Eastport for Kubcc at fre(|iient intervals day and evening. 
 
 LUBEC AND MACHIAS STAGE. — ( Twenty-eight miles.) Leaves 
 Liil>ec daily for Machias. Returning, leaves Maeliias daily for Luliee. 
 
 MAINE CENTRAL RAILWAY.— Trains leave Portland as follows : 
 
 K<«r Aiihurn and Lewisloii, 8.30 A.M., 1.15 and 5.10 P.M. Lewisttm, via 
 Brnnswiek, 7.00 A.M., 5.05 and 11.00 l'..M. Kor liath, 7.15 A.M., 1.20, 5.05 and 
 11.00 P.M. Kocklar.d and Knox & Lincoln Railroad, 7.15 A.M., and 1.20 and 
 11.00 P.M. Brunswick, Gardiner, Hallowell and Augusta, 7.15 A.M., 1.20, 5.05 
 and 11.00 P.M. Farmington, via Lewiston, -S.30 A.M., and 1.15 P.M.; via Bruns- 
 wick, 1.20 P.M. Monmouth, Wiothrop, Lake Maranacook, Readficld, Oakland and 
 North Anson, 1.15 P..NL Waterville ami Skowheg.in, via Lewiston, 1.15 P.M.; 
 via Augu.sta, 6.40 A.M., i.co, 1.20 and 11.30 P.M. Belfast and De.xter, 1.15, 1.20 
 and 11.00 P.M. Bangor, via Lewisttm, 1.15 P.M.; via Augusta 1.20 and 11.00 P.M. 
 Ellsworth and Bar Ilarlior, 1.20, 11.00 I'.M. Vanceboro", St. Stephen (Calais) 
 Aroostook County, St. John, Halifax and the Provinces, 1.20, 11.00 P.M. 
 
 WHITE MOUNTAINS LINK. — For Cumberland Mills, 8.45 A.M., 1.25 and 
 5.55 P.M. For .Sebago Lake, 8.45 A.M., 1.25 and 5.55 I'.M. For Bridgton, 8.45 
 A.M. and 1.25 P.M. Fryeburg, North Conway, Glen Station, Crawfords, and 
 Fabyans and Montreal, 8.45 A.M., and 3.30 P.M. Jefferson and Lancaster, 8.45 
 A.M. and 3.30 P.M. 
 
 NOVA SCOTIA CENTRAL RAILWAY.— Trains of this railway connect 
 at Middletown (1). A. R'y) ft)r New Germany, Lunenburg, Bridgewater, Malonc 
 Bay, and other points on South Shore, including Liverpool. 
 
 CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY. — (St. John to Fredericton, Grand 
 Falls, Vanceboro', St. Stephen, St. Andrews, etc.) Trains leave St. John for 
 Fredericton, St. Stephen, St. Andrews, lloulton, Bangor, etc., at 6.10 and 8.55 A.M. 
 For Fredericton at 4.40 P.M. For St. Stephen, St. Andrews, Houlton, Bangor, etc., 
 at 8.30 P. M. 
 
 PORTLAND AND NEW YORK LINE. — (Three himdred and forty 
 miles.) ( Maine Steamship Co.) Steamers leave Portland for New York, 
 calling at Martha's Vineyard, every Monday, Wednesday and Saturday at 6 P.M. 
 Returning, leave New York every Monday, Wednesday and Saturday at 5 P.M. 
 
 PORTLAND AND BOOTHBAY LINE.— Steamer leaves Portland 
 Tuesdays and Saturdays at S.oo A.M., for Squirrel Island, Boothbay, Heron Island, 
 South Bristol and East Boothbay, and for Pematiuid every Thursday at 8.00 .V.M. 
 Returning, leave Boothbay every Monday and Thursday at*8.oo A.M. for Portland 
 pnd intermediate points. Also leaves Pemaquid for Portland Fridays at 7.00 .\.M. 
 
 MT. DESERT AND MACHIAS LINE. — The new steamer, "Frank 
 Jones," makes tri-weekly trips between Rockland, Bar Harbor and Machiasport; 
 leaving Kockland Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays at 6.00 A.M., and returning 
 from Machiasport, Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. 
 
 97 
 
C'0.\Nt:cTIN(; LINKS KAST oK IIOSTON — CV////««.</. 
 
 PORTLAND & ROCHESTER RAILROAD. — Trains leave I'ditl.iiul 
 as I'dHows : For WorccsUr, < linton, Ayer Junction, Nasinia, Windliam anil Kppin^ 
 at 7.30 A.M. antl li.jol'.M. Kor Manchester, Concord and points north at 7.30 
 A..M. and IJ.30 I'.M. For Rochester, Springvale, Alfred, Waterboro' and .Saco 
 Kivcr at 7.30 A.M., 12.30 and 5.30 P.M. For (Jorhani at 7.30 and 045 A.Nf., 
 12.30, 3.00, 5.^,0 and 6.20 I'.M. Foi Westbrook (Saccarappa), Ciimberiand Mills, 
 Westbrook Junction and Woodford's at 7.30 and 9.45 A.M., 12.30, 3.00, 5.30 aiul 
 6.20 l'..M. 
 
 PORTLAND & BOSTON STEAMERS. — ( One hundred and ten 
 miles.) (Portland Steam Packet Co.) Leave Portland at 7.00 P.M. daily e.\cept 
 Sunday. Returning, leave Boston 7.00 p.m. daily, e.vcept Sunday. In summer, 
 special Sruiday evening trips arc made in both directions. 
 
 CHARLOTTETOWN STEAM NAVIGATION CO.— Steamers of this 
 line form a daily connection (except Sunday) to and from Point du Chene and 
 Summerside. Arrangement of steamers is such as to connect with I. C. R'y train 
 to and fron\ St. John. This line also runs daily (except Sunday) to and from 
 Pictou and Charlottetown, forming direct connection to and from Halifa.v. 
 
 STAR LINE STEAMER leaves Indiantown at 9.00 A.M. weekdays. Re- 
 turning, leaves P'redericton at 8. A..M. week-days. 
 
 DOMINION ATLANTIC RAILWAY. — Trains leave Yarmouth daily 
 (e.\cept Sundays) for all points between Yarmouth and Ilalila.x. 
 
 «L 
 
 ,;S 
 
TT" 
 
 illlhllli d. 
 
 ins leave I'ditlaiul 
 ulluun aiut Kjtpin^ 
 ints north at 7.30 
 lcrl)i)ro' anc' Saco 
 ;o and 045 A.^f., 
 oiiml)ciiaiul Mills, 
 ,30, 3.00, 5.30 ami 
 
 iiuiKircil and ten 
 3 r.M. daily except 
 iday. In summer, 
 
 — Steamers of tills 
 oint (hi Ciiene and 
 ivitli I. C. R'y train 
 nday) to and from 
 1 Halifax. 
 
 I. weeiv-da\> 
 
 K 
 
 ve Yarmoutli daily 
 
 Connecting Rail Lines out of Boston. 
 
 TlinOlKill TKAIN9-srB.IK<T TO IHANtiK. 
 
 Mnriiini; tniins ami ilii; 
 I J. 10 ami I .u«> P.M. trains 
 amiiLci at I'drtlaiul witli 
 stfaniurs. 
 
 i\ti Ni) transfer ilurinu the 
 Siiinmer. 
 
 Boston & Maine Railroad— Kastern Division. 
 
 1 nr POK ri..\M'-7V'anil .;.oo .A.M., 1230 ami 7..K) P.M. 
 " WHllE .MOl NIAiNS-7..i;o.\..M., .i.jo P. .M. 
 
 Boston & Maine Railroad— Western Pivision. 
 
 Kiir l'()Rl'l..\NI)— S jo.\.M., u.joaml i-4i l'^'- 
 
 Boston & Maine Railroad— .'^niiiliern Division. 
 
 I'nr MONTKK.M., P. (J.— via Ctnlral VeriiiDnt Kailruail— y.oo ami 11. ju .\..M.,ancl 7.J0 P„M. 
 • • " " —via Canadian Pacific Railway— 9.00 .\.M. 
 
 • WIIITK MOUNTAINS-9.00 A.M. 
 Bokton & Maine Railroad— Central Mass. Division. 
 
 I'or HLllSON, \V.\KE ami NORTH.AMPK »J-3.i5 .A.M., 1.30 ami .(.41' I'-M- 
 
 Boston & Albany Railroad 
 
 F(ir NEW Y()KK-9.t» ami 11.00 A.M., 4.00 ami 11.00 P..\I. -• 
 
 " .M-P.ANY— 5.00, 3. JO, 10.30 .itnl ii.ouA.M., 2.00 ami 7.15 P..M. 
 " THE WEST— 1030 A.M., 2. CO anil 7.15 P.M. 
 
 Fitchburg Railroad— Hoosac Tunnel Route. 
 
 F(ir MONTREAI., P. 1^).- via Central Vermont Kailn).->cl— 8.00 ami 10.30 A.M , ami 7.00 I'.M. 
 " TKOV, N. v.— 6.45, y.oo ami 11.30 .A..M., 3.00 antl 7.00 P.M. 
 " THE WEST— 3. no ami 7.00 P.M. " ' 
 
 New York & New England Railroad. 
 
 i'or NEW Y( -KK-S.jo A.M., 12.00 noon, 3.00 and 3.30 P.M. 
 '« " *' —via Sound Steamer — 600 P.M. 
 
 New York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad. 
 
 For NEW YORK.— via Fall River l.ine-6.00 P.M. 
 
 " " —via Shore Line; all rail— lu.oo and 10.03 A.M., i.oo, 3 00, 3.00 and 12.00 P.^^. 
 
 .1 " " —via Providence l.ine—Opens in Jnne — 6.30 P..M. 
 
 " " " —via Stnnington Line— 6 30 P.M. 
 
 Boston and Portland by Daylight. 
 
 (Omitted during Snminer S chedule .) 
 
 RATES. 
 
 Boston to Portland, Me .... 
 " Auburn, Me .... 
 
 " Augusta, .Me.... 
 
 Hath, Me 
 
 lielfast, Me 
 
 " Pirunswick, Me . 
 
 •' Crawford House, New Hampshi 
 
 " Fabyans, N. H 
 
 " Farniington, Me. 
 
 Glen House, N. H 
 
 Gorham, N. H 
 
 " CJardiner, Me 
 
 Hallowell "" 
 " I.ewisU'1, Me 
 
 Mon'.eil, P. Q . ... 
 
 Montreal, P. Q 
 
 " Worth Conway, N. H 
 
 Old Orchard, N. H 
 •' Poland Springs, Me 
 
 *' Skowheaan, Me 
 
 " Waterville, Me 
 
 " m- Steamers do not make the d.iy trip between Boston and Portland" from July 1 to September : 
 
 99 
 
 ,:: I 
 
gfMSiiam 
 
 _ 1. 
 
 Stage Conner .ions. 
 
 Ai Amiikksi- with triweekly Sta.ucs for I.imlfn and Tij;nish. 
 M SHn.KNA.'Al.iK vvitl. Sta,,cs .laiiy for Mai.lan.l, ( lav". Kivu a.ul .M.>s.,uo,lo1.it. 
 
 iri weekly for Stuet llarl.oiir, ami on Saturdays for Kennutcook ami Noel. 
 A. Woyv.wv.l. with Stewart's Sta^e Line for Springvillc. Ilridueville, St. I'ai.!, 
 
 Uoper and Lower Caledonia, Sniillilield and Melrose. 
 At TRlRO, daily, with Stages for Clifton, Ulaek Roc k and Maitland.and tri-weekly 
 
 for Karltown and West I'.ianeh Kivei John. 
 At London. .KKKY with Stages for Aeadia Iron .Mines. Great Village, Keonotny 
 
 ami Five Islands. 
 At SllKDl.AC with Stages to and from Cocigne and Bnctouche. 
 At ILvRfoUKTwith Stages for Kichibucto, Kingston, and other places on North 
 
 Shore. 
 At NKW.ASll.K with tri-w.ekly Stages for Ued liank and Whitneyville. 
 
 Cape Breton Connections, 1895. 
 
 Intercolonial trains run through from Mulgravc to Grand Narrows and Sydney. 
 
 At the time of going to press full particulars of navigation lines had not been 
 received, the summer time-tables of local railways will give full particulars. 
 
 Steamers of the Hras d'Or Navigation Co. connect with trains of Intercolonial 
 Railway at Mulgrave, for Svdnev, calling at Grandi<iue Ferry, St. Peter's, 
 Grand Narrows, ^Haddeck and Boularderie Islands. Returning, leave Sydney 
 for above points connecting at Daddeck with steamers for Whycocomagh, 
 Little Narrows and Little Bras d'Or. 
 
 Steamship "Ramouski" will leave Mulgrave .mi arrival of east-bound train, for 
 Arichat. Canso. and Port Hood, and on two days per week for Guysboro. 
 Returning from above points following mornings, so as to connect with west- 
 bound trains. 
 
 100 
 
 ■itiaMib 
 
ami Miisiiuoilobit, 
 oiik Hiul Noel. 
 
 igfviiic, St. r.ui:, 
 
 iiul.aiul tri-wcekly 
 Villagf, r.cciniimy 
 
 r places cm North 
 ifvvillc. 
 
 95- 
 
 ws aiul Sydney. 
 
 lines hail not been 
 full particulars. 
 
 ns of Intercolonial 
 Ferry, St. Peter's, 
 ning, leave Sydney 
 for Whvcoconiagh, 
 
 ast-boiind train, for 
 
 ,cek for Gnyshoro. 
 
 connect with west- 
 
 Th« n«w Hot Aberdeen, recently opened, 
 was Inadvertently omitted from the list of St. 
 John Hotels. Their advertisement may be 
 found elsewhere In this book. 
 
 -Itr-- 
 
 Ciiv UK I'cm. 
 
 Namk l>l- lIcTHl.. 
 
 Amher-i, N. S.. 
 AiiiKipolU, N. S. 
 
 Aylesfiml, N. S... 
 li.i.l.lc.:k,C. H.... 
 lictwi. k, N. S. . 
 llri>l)'ctown, N. S. 
 
 l;ilai*, Me. 
 
 Cainimlicllo, N. 11 
 nalliniiMc. N. II... 
 
 Pigby, N. 
 
 Kiisipiirl, Mc- 
 Kreilerictiin, N. H. 
 
 (iram' N.irrows, (.' 
 Halifax, N.S. ... 
 
 Kcniville, N. S... 
 
 Kingston, N. S .. 
 I „iwrencetown, N 
 
 lailwc. Me 
 
 MIdilleton.N. S.. 
 Moncton, N. B... 
 
 New Glasgow, N. 
 loint Hastings, C 
 Portland, Me 
 
 St. Andrews, N. H 
 St. John, N. H ... 
 
 Summerside, P. K, 
 Truro, N. S, 
 
 Walerville, N. S.. 
 Weymonth, N. S.. 
 Windsor, N. S. . . . 
 
 , . IVrraie Hi>tcl 
 
 Aniliursl Hotel 
 
 .. I'lifldii lliiiKi' 
 
 Anieriran Hniisi' ..■ 
 I'linnnercial House. 
 .. Ayloforil llmise.... 
 .. 'I'elegr:i|)ll llou-e.... 
 
 .. French Villa 
 
 .. tirand t'enirai •• • 
 
 Revere House 
 
 .. Border lily Hotel... 
 St. L'roix Kxchange. 
 .AnieriL-an House.... 
 
 . . Ty'n-y-roed 
 
 . .. Inch .\rran House. .. 
 Muri)hy's Hotel ... 
 
 , .. Myrtle House 
 
 Royal Hotel 
 
 Short's Hotel 
 
 Ilurnhani House 
 
 OiKhy Hotel 
 
 . .. Ouoildy House 
 
 ... Barker House 
 
 (^)ueen Hotel 
 
 .1!. • 
 
 . .. Oueen Hold ■ 
 
 Halifax Hotel 
 
 ... Mcl.eo<rs 
 
 Kentville House.... 
 
 Porter House 
 
 Revere House 
 
 American House. . . 
 Victoria Hotel.... 
 .. Kingston House.... 
 
 S. Kim House 
 
 V.illey House 
 
 . . Merchant's Hotel . . 
 
 Hillside House 
 
 ,. American House... 
 ,, Brunswick House 
 Commercial House. 
 
 ^ . Vendome 
 
 B. ; Caledonia Hotel .... 
 ... Falmouth Hotel . . . . 
 
 , United States 
 
 ! Preble House 
 
 iCity Hotel 
 
 i Kt. Julian Hotel.... 
 
 Algonquin 
 
 Puflerin 
 
 [ Victoria 
 
 i Koy.tl •••••,. 
 
 I New Victoria 
 
 Belmont 
 
 Queen 
 
 ;. I. Clifton House 
 
 Hotel Russ 
 
 Pr. of Wales Hotel 
 Victoria Hotel .•••■ 
 Learment Hotel.... 
 
 rUOl'UMilllK. 
 
 N. C. Calhoun 
 
 (ieo. Ml Fariane 
 
 Wm. M.lelland.... 
 Mrs. I. H. M. leod. 
 Mrs. "1. H. Salter.... 
 
 M. N". Craves 
 
 J. Oiuilap 
 
 Mrs. Vaughan 
 
 W. I. ( ilenrn)ss 
 
 Mrs. Russell 
 
 1). M. (lardnei 
 
 J. K. I'uran 
 
 \. ('•. Hamilton 
 
 Write Manager 
 
 'I'hos. .Murphy 
 
 J. I.'. Morrison 
 
 I. Daley 
 
 Airs. M. Short ■ 
 
 Xirs. J. Burnham... 
 
 Nliss Smith 
 
 Kenney & liucknam. 
 
 F. B. Coleman 
 
 J, \. FUiwartls 
 
 McDougallA McNeill 
 
 A. B. Sher.ilon 
 
 H. Hesslein 
 
 D. McLeotI 
 
 J.as. Lyons 
 
 Rufus I'ortcr 
 
 Mrs. W. Redilcn.... 
 
 J. Mcintosh 
 
 ]C. E. Farren 
 
 R. E. Davidson 
 
 !A. I'. I'hinncy 
 
 jN. H. I'hinncy 
 
 Wolfville, N. S. 
 
 Avon House 
 
 Victoria Hotel 
 
 Windsor House . . . 
 
 Acadia House 
 
 Centr.al Hotel 
 
 Wolfville House... 
 
 Kent Lodge 
 
 American House.. 
 
 , I). Peind.al 
 
 . Cico. McSweeney.. 
 
 . 1). McDearmid 
 
 !:j.K!*Maiii'i! !!!."! 
 
 ■ rt'oss & O'Connor. . . 
 . IM. .^. (Jibson 
 
 V. H. Sweet 
 
 . W. R. Underwood.. 
 
 Albert Miller 
 
 . F. .A. Jones 
 
 .il). W. McConnick 
 . Thos. F. Riiymcnd. 
 . |J. I.. McCloskey... 
 
 . John Sime 
 
 .,). C. Rickie 
 
 E. Mawley 
 
 . J. B. Russ 
 
 Mrs. A. 1.. McKenzie 
 
 . N. A. Ross.. 
 
 . A. H. Learment 
 
 W. H. Risteen • . 
 
 . Forbes Jones 
 
 . John Cox 
 
 • Thos. Doran 
 
 . Thos. Gibson 
 
 .J. L. Franklyn... • 
 . Mrs. C. R. tJuin.... 
 
 . H. I). Farrell 
 
 . Mrs. Haliburton 
 
 .J.W.Harris 
 
 3.< 
 
 .(o 
 
 ao 
 i8 
 
 >5i 
 loo 
 
 50 
 
 50 
 
 40 
 130 
 300 
 
 18 
 
 30 
 
 38 
 
 32 
 16 
 13 
 18 
 8 
 
 8 
 50 
 50 
 'i 
 SO 
 30 
 ....] 
 
 350' 
 
 150. 
 
 138 
 86 
 50 
 
 200 
 
 50 
 
 681 
 
 761 
 50 
 331 
 39 1 
 30 
 '.S 
 45 
 
 i 33 
 20 
 II 
 
 «4 
 
 3.50 to 4.00 
 t.SO 
 
 3.,H1 
 
 1.5.1 
 I 50 
 1.50 
 1.50 
 
 2.00 to 3.t» 
 3.00 to 3.50 
 ■J. 00 to 3.50 
 1 .^o to 3.00 
 
 •J.CVI to J. 00 
 
 a.iKi to 4.00 
 1.50 
 1.50 
 
 1.25 
 
 1 .00 
 
 1.35 
 
 1.35 
 
 1. 00 
 
 1.35 
 
 1.00 
 
 a. 00 
 1.50 to 2.00 
 
 1.50 
 3.00 to 3.00 
 1.50 to 2.00 
 Special. 
 
 1 .00 
 2.00 to 4.00 
 2.00 to 2.50 
 2.50 to 3.00 
 2.00 to 2.50 
 1 .00 to 3.00 
 3.00 to 5.00 
 
 3.00 
 
 3.00 to 3 50 
 
 I 3-°° 
 
 I 3.00 
 
 I 3-°o 
 
 3. 00 
 1.50 
 I 50 
 1.50 
 1.50 
 1. 00 
 1.50 
 1.50 
 1.50 
 1.35 
 1.50 
 1.50 
 1.50 
 1.25 
 1.35 
 
 S|iecial. 
 
 C).0" 
 
 7.1K1 to 10. IX) 
 
 5.00 to 7.o'> 
 ^.(•o to 7. '."I 
 j.ooto 7.K1 
 5.00 to 7.'"' 
 
 Special. 
 
 10.00 to 14. uo 
 
 10.00 to i4.t>o 
 
 7.00 to 10.00 
 
 10.50 to 16. CO 
 
 lo 00 to 16.00 
 Special. 
 
 5.00 
 
 S'oo 
 3.00 
 i 5.00 
 
 I 5.00 
 
 i 4-00 
 
 3.50 
 7.00 to 10 00 
 7.00 to 10.00 
 j 5,00 and 6.00 
 Special. 
 
 4.00 to 5.00 
 10.00 and up. 
 io.c)o and up. 
 ecial. 
 
 Spec 
 
 15.00 .and up. 
 Special. 
 
 5.i» 
 6.00 
 
 Special. 
 7 00 
 7.00 
 7.00 
 
 Speci.ll. 
 
 5.00 to 7.C 
 Special. 
 
 6 00 
 Special. 
 
 6.00 
 Special. 
 
 5.00 
 
 lOl 
 
I -, 
 
I _ 
 
 
 It 1^: 
 
 irt^V^'rW^^ 
 
 
 I 
 
THE RHINE OF AMERICA -_-__:!._ 
 
 T^IVBK SAINT JOHN. 
 
 ST. JOHN. FREDERICTON mud WOODSTOCK. 
 
 FARE: FREDERICTON, $1.00. FREDERICTON TO WOODSTOCK, $1,50. 
 . THROUGH TICKET, $2.00. , 
 
 Inlil further iioiici:, one of tlii: uplcniliil Mail Stuvmkks of ilii» line will leave 
 
 INDIANTOWN FOR FREDERICTON, 
 
 Anil full riiii-iliat,- /.iiiiiiiiigi, 
 
 Kvcry morning (Siiml.iyi exccpleil) al nine o'clock (local time), ami will leave 
 
 FREDERICTON FOR ST. JOHN (INDIANTOWN), 
 
 And liileriiiiiiiiilr l.iiiniitigs, 
 
 Kvery morning (Simd.iy* excepted) at eight o'clock (local time), due at Indianlowii al three v.s\. 
 
 Leave FREDERICTON FOR WOODSTOCK, 
 
 Tueiilayi, Thuridjy*, and Saturdays at nix a.m. Return alternate day», leaving 
 
 .}, WocxUtnck nt eight a.m. -- ; 
 
 CONNECTIONS ARE MADE WITH TRAINS OF THE 
 
 CMHiDIMN PACIFIC RM ILWiY, 
 
 FoK Woodstock, Ahoostock, Ckanh Fau.s, Ed.mindston. kti'. 
 
 CMHADA EASTERN JiAILWMY. 
 
 For Uoaktown, Chatham, ktc, and with 
 
 STEAMERS OF THE IHTERMATIORAL STEAMSHIP CO. 
 
 FoK AND rHOM PoKTl.ASD, HosTdS, AND OTHKK POINTS IN THK UNlTttD STATES AND CANADA, 
 
 THEOCOH TieSKS, SltTSLX A»D 8ITCr.iI, 138UID TO ALL 8IATI0H8 AT 
 8FICIAL USUCIB SATIS. 
 
 Connections made with the electrics of "St. John City Railway," which run to and from 
 steamboat landing. Fare only five cents to any point in St. John or Portland on their route. 
 
 For further information, see folder with map of River, to be obtained at offices of the 
 iNTKKNATioNAi. Stkamship Co,, .It railroad stations and at hotels. 
 
 Geo. F. Baird. Manager. 
 
 Head Office at Star Line Wharf, Indiantown, ■ - ST. JOHN, N.B, 
 
PORTLAND STEAM PACKET CO. 
 
 I<INK OF FXRST-CX^ASS STEiliMFKS 
 
 BOSTON AND PORTLAND. 
 
 /^NE of the steamers — Porii.and or Trkmont — will leave India 
 ^^ Wharf, lioston, for Portland, every evening at 7.00 p.m. (except 
 Siuidays), connecting, on arrival, with Maine Central, Knox & Lincoln, 
 (Irand Trunk, and Portland iV Rochester Railroads, and with steamers 
 for points on coast of Maine. Direct and desirable route to Lewiston, 
 Auburn, Bangor, and all points East and North. Through tickets at 
 low rates. Leave Portland for Boston every evening at 7.00 o'clock 
 (except Sundays), connecting, on arrival, with the earliest trains on 
 all diverging lines. 
 
 Sunday trips from middle of June to middle of September, leaving 
 each port at 7.00 p.m. 
 
 This line affords a most desirable route to the Rangeley Lakes, 
 through by daylight from Portland. The standard route for comfort 
 and pleasure to Lewiston, Poland Springs, Mount Desert, Bethel, 
 (Jorham, N.H., North Conway, Crawford's, Fabyan's, itc. Close con- 
 nections at Portland with all diverging lines, and through tickets to 
 points North antl East. 
 
 J. B. COYLE. Manager. J. F. LISCOMB, Gen. Agent and Treas. 
 
 C. F. WILLIAMS, Agent, India Wharf, Boston. 
 
 f 
 
 GENERAL OFFICES: PORTLAND, MAINE. 
 
 
:et CO. 
 
 VIEKS 
 
 .AND. 
 
 ill leave India 
 oo P.M. (except 
 Jiox iV Lincoln, 
 A with steamers 
 ite to Lewiston, 
 ough tickets at 
 at 7.00 o'clock 
 rliest trains on 
 
 tember, leaving 
 
 angeley Lakes, 
 ite for comfort 
 Desert, Bethel, 
 tc. Close con- 
 3Ugh tickets to 
 
 jent and Treas. 
 
 \n. 
 
 AINE. 
 
 MAINE STEAMSHIP COMPANY. 
 
 TRI-WKEKLY LINE BETWEEN 
 
 PGRiLANDiNEWYORK. 
 
 I^^l^:;?!!^^' 
 
 9MiBL'V1.0W,—m%S, 
 
 f>tE\N 
 
 MANHATTRN,!sTEfli»isHips^ 
 
 2.000 TONS. 
 
 
 i COTTAGE CITY, 
 
 2,000 TONS. 
 
 Leave Franklin Wharf, Portland, every Tuesday, Thursday and 
 
 .Saturday at 6.00 p.m. 
 Leave Pier 38, East River, New York, every Tuesday, Thurs- 
 day and Saturday at 5.00 p.m. 
 
 T/w Steamers touch in each direction at Cotta^^e City, Martha^s Vineyard. 
 
 pafes (in Statepooms). 
 
 Between Portland and New York $5-co 
 
 Round Trip Tickets 8.co 
 
 Between Portland or New York and Martha's Vineyard 400 
 
 Round Trip Tickets from Portland or New York to Martha's Vineynrd and Return, 7.00 
 
 MEALS EXTRA. 
 
 Freight received and forwarded to and from all points .South and West of New 
 York and East of Portland. For Freight or Passage apply to 
 
 J. F. USCOMB, GenTal Agent, 
 
 HORATIO HALL, Agani, 
 
 ofkice: fkanklin whakf, Portland. hfuce: tier 38, east kiver, nf.w york. 
 
 J. B. COYLE, Hanagor, Portland, HI: 
 
To NOVA SCOTIA vit ST. JOHN, N. B. 
 
 AM) TIIK 
 
 DRYoF pUNDY g TERMSHIP Q OIPANY 
 
 (LiiMrrET).) 
 
 '• o o 
 
 TIIK I'inc Iron Sttamer " City of Monticello " runs legiihu!;, in conneLtion 
 with International Steamship Co. lutwccn St. John and Digby, tlicie 
 connecting with th" Western Counties Railway for Yarmouth and 
 points West. From Digby the steamer proceeds to Annapolis, sixteen miles, 
 through one of the most picturesque rivers in North America, connecting with the 
 Windsor & A.^napolis Railway, which traverses the far-famed "Land of 
 Evangeline " to Halifax and points East. 
 
 t'onneclion matle at St. John with the "All Kail Line" to llangor, Portland, 
 and Boston, with the Steamers of tlie International Steamship Co. to Eastport, 
 I'ortland and Boston, with Canadian Pacific for Montreal, Intercolonial to Moncton, 
 Quebec, etc., the Crand Southern U. R. for St. George and St. Stephen, Canadian 
 Pacific to Bangor and points West, and the New York, Maine, and New Brunswick 
 
 Steamship Company. 
 
 © © . ■ 
 
 PROPOSED SAILINGS 1894. 
 
 Jniiuary aiul Pfbruary. 
 
 From St. John, Wedncsd.iy and Satiird,-iy. 
 From Annapolis and Digby, Wednesday and 
 Saturday. 
 
 Harrh niid April. 
 
 From St. Jcihii, Monday, Wednesday and 
 Saturday. 
 
 From Annapolis and Digby, Monday, Wednes- 
 day and Saturday. 
 
 May. 
 
 From St. John, Monday, Wednesd.iy and Fri- 
 day. 
 
 From Annapolis and Digby, Tuesday, Thursday 
 and Saturd.iy. 
 
 June. 
 
 From St. John, Monday, Wednesday, Thursday 
 and !• riday. 
 
 From .Annapolis and I 'igby, Tuesday, Wednes- 
 day, Thursday and Saturday (until 2olh, 
 when daily trips will be made.) 
 
 July and August. 
 
 From St. John, daily trips (Sundays excepted). 
 From Annapolis and Digby, daily tri|is (Sim- 
 days excepted). 
 
 Septriuber. From St. John daily until 9th. 
 
 Italance of Month. 
 
 From St. John, Monday, Wednesday, Thurs- 
 day, Friday. 
 
 From Annapolis and Digby, Tuesday, Wednes- 
 day, Thursday and Saturday. 
 
 October. 
 
 F'rom St. John, Monday, Wednesday and Friilay. 
 From Annapolis a'>d Digby, Tuesday, Thursday 
 and Saturday. 
 
 NoTcmber and Decembt -. 
 
 From St. John, Monday, Wednesday and Sat- 
 urday. 
 
 From Annapolis and Digby, Monday^ Wednes- 
 day and Saturday. 
 
 TROOP & SON, St. John, N. B., Managers. 
 
 . • © 
 
 AGS-ENTS. 
 
 CHAS. M. L. TROOP, 
 
 St. John, N. It. 
 
 H. P. SHORT, 
 
 Digby, N. S. 
 
 I. S. CARDER. 
 
 Annapolis, N. S. 
 
B. 
 
 mm 
 
 in connection 
 Digby, there 
 armouth and 
 sixteen miles, 
 ecting witli tiie 
 d "Land of 
 
 Igor, Portland, 
 o. to Kasti)ort, 
 ial to Moncton, 
 ihen, Canadian 
 >e\v lirunswick 
 
 undays excepted), 
 daily trips (Sun- 
 daily until 9th. 
 
 ednesday, 'I'hurs- 
 
 Fiiesday, Wednes- 
 day. 
 
 lesday and Friday, 
 'uesday, Thursday 
 
 ;dnesday and Sat- 
 Monday, Wednes- 
 
 [ers. 
 
 CARDER, 
 
 nnnpoIU, N. S. 
 
 FRONTIER STEAMBOAT COMPANY. 
 
 ^.^.^.^.^.M..M..^.^ 
 
 1895-SUMMER ARRANGEMENT— 1895. 
 
 44 
 
 ROSE STANDISH" 
 
 Leave-s Calais every morning (Sundays excepted) touching at Robbinston 
 and St. Andrews. Connecting at Eastport with the "International 
 
 Steamers " for 
 
 St. John, Portland and Boston. 
 
 Ferry at Eastport for Lubec and Campobello. 
 Stage at Lubec for Machias. 
 Stage at Eastport for Pembroke. 
 
 RETURNING, leave Eastport about noon, or on arrival of International 
 Steainer, touching at St. Andrews and Robbinston. Connecting 
 
 at Calais with 
 
 St Croix and Penobscot R'y ior Princeton and Grand Lake Streams. 
 
 Canadian Pacific R'y for Hamilton and Woodstock. 
 
 Shore Line Railway for St. George. 
 
 For further inforniation see weekly time cards, or apply to following local agents : 
 
 JOHN PENDLEHURG, Agent, Sr. Aniirews, N.H. 
 
 A. H. LEAVITT, Agent, EAsri'ORT, Me. 
 
 JAS. L. THOMPSON, ^f.inager, Calais, Maine. 
 
The Dufferin, 
 
 - - ST. John, N.B. 
 
 DOOIH BV THE SEAT 
 
 THE ONLY IIOTEI. IN THK rROVINCKS HAVING (iKOUNDS 
 FOR RECK HAT ION AND OI'EN-AIR CONCERTS. 
 
 Strictly First Class. 
 
 New Management. - - - 
 - - New Heating (hot water). 
 
 Thoroughly Renovated and Improved for Business or Pleasure. 
 The Most Conveniently Situated Hotel in the City. 
 
 The Cuisine is under the management of E. M. Trek, a 
 Club Steward and Hotel Man of twenty-two 
 years' experience. 
 
 
 TERMS 
 
 $2.00 to $3.00. AMERICAN PLAN. 
 
 E. LK ROI WILLIS, Proprietor. 
 
N.B. 
 
 (JUOUNDS 
 
 <TS. 
 
 /VATER). 
 
 • Pleasure. 
 City. 
 
 VI. Trek, a 
 twenty-two 
 
 
 «!ta«ia.-«»^-.:',-ja«M;>«r<>i 
 
 PL/fN. 
 
 >r. 
 
 T 
 
 Y'N-Y-COED HOTEL, 
 
 :-: :-: CAMI'0HI':LL0 ISLAND. :-: :-: 
 
 THIS ATTRACTIVE SUMMER RESORT WILL BE OPEN FROM 
 JUNE 2m TO SEPTEMBER 30th. 
 
 effo-^TV^fiS \ (otitic 
 
 
 The Hotel, with its annex, is pleasantly situated near the water's edge, on a 
 bluff seventy-five feet ai)ove the level of the sea. It is provided with all the 
 comforts of a refined home, and beautifully furnished throughout. 
 
 Access mav be had bv the fine steamers of the International Steamship Com- 
 pany, leaving Commercial Wharf, lioston, during July and August, every Monday, 
 Tuesday, Thursday and Friday at s P.M., and Portland, Wednesday and Saturday 
 at S •'•M- Connection can be made with the latter steamers by taking the 12.30 
 or I 00 P.M. trains on Boston & Maine Railroad, "Eastern and Western Divisions." 
 
 For other Time-Tables of the Company see first pages this book. 
 
 Baggage checked through to Campobello. 
 
 Applications for Rooms for the Season of 1895 may be made, 
 until fune 20th, to 
 
 lOHN A. SHERLOCK, 1 '^^ ^^Tn^rnM"" ^'''""'' 
 
 HOTF.L AliHOTSFORl), I BOSTON. 
 
 Post-Office and Telegraph Address, 
 
 TY'N-Y-COED, EASTPORT, Maine. 
 
Royal Hotel, 
 
 ST. JOHN, N. B. 
 
 KING STREET. 
 
 RAYMOND £ DOHERTY. 
 
 Prophietoks. 
 
?TK 
 
Kill-- Strc^et. S'l\ JOIIX. N.li. 
 D. LU. IVIeCORlVIACK, Proprietor. 
 
•I^e Q6odd^, # « 
 
 5}J 
 
 ICASTPOW'l*. Ml 
 
 A NEW HOTEL WITH ALL MODERN IMPROVEMENTS. 
 
 Steam Heat, Electric IJfrhts, 
 Bath Rooms, Etc. 
 
 TIllC LARC.KST HOTKL IN KASTKKN MAIN!:. 
 
 T. H. BUCKMAN, Proprietor. 
 B. W. BOWMAN, Clerk. 
 
 
 1,, IS, m^imMMAW & CO., 
 -« COAL DEALERS, ^ 
 
 WHARVES AND BRANCH OfFIOta: 
 
 144 Charles St. and Sfrtt St. (.finirtiuii af Ma».'<achii.-<iUK An-.,) lioKtmi. 
 f/ J.J J I ill. Wanhinijton Ai^f.nwlGranHf^M.^ Sii. Huston. 
 Ct I-* J X. ^,^,^ Urhlif Street, KuM Cdmhrhlije. 
 
 86 STATE STREET 
 
 BOSTON & GLOUCESTER 
 
 BOSTON. 
 
 # STEAMBOAT f OMPANY. 
 
 FOR FREIGHT AND PASSENGERS. 
 
 M.iking Connection with all Railroad and Steamship Lines out of Hoston. 'l hmugh Uates 
 and Bills oir Lading Given to all points West and South. Steamers Leave liosli.n ami 
 Cloucesier Daily During the Year, Sundays Excepted. 
 
 See Daily papers for Thiie-Tablt. 
 HCNRY M. WHITNEY. PmmaiomNT. 
 
 E. S. MERCHANT, Trbas. and Agent, BOSTON. 
 
 ABBOTT COFFIN, Agent, GLOUCESTER. 
 
r. Mi:. 
 
 EMENTS. 
 
 JAIN!:. 
 
 , Proprietor. 
 
 CO., 
 
 '.,) Ihisliiii. 
 
 lOSTON. 
 
 PANY. 
 
 :s. 
 
 Ihriiugh Rates 
 e Itostim a\u\ 
 
 ;STER. 
 
 jlRPISTROIIIi pHKSFEB (jOPIPIIIIY. 
 
 Tlt€' carriafTi's of this Company will he in 
 waiting on the arrival of the steamers of 
 the INTERNATIONAL STEAMSHIP 
 COMPANY at B oston to t ransfer pass- 
 engers to all connecting lines of steam- 
 boats and railroads, and also to hotels 
 and private residences. 
 
 
 J. V. Fletcher & Sons, 
 
 66, 68, 70 A 72 Faneui/ Hall Market. 
 
 . - - DIRECT RECEIVERS OF - - - 
 
 SWIFT'S WESTERN DRESSED BEEF, PORE AND UMB. 
 
 Ilotc-lx iincl Sti'iiiiii<)il|ii> Hii|i|>llril. 
 
 I'lirvfyom for till' Intkiinatiiinai, Htkamniiii* Co. 
 
 CORTICELLI SILK. 
 
 Prudent purchasers save time and mental 
 friction by careful discrimiuaiion in their 
 5elt:ction of sewing materials. 
 
 This group shows Silk, Hutton-Hole Twist 
 and Worsted Koll Draid, each bearing the 
 name Curticelli, which if a guarantee of excel- 
 lence. The reputation of this brand has been 
 secured by 55 years of effort, attended by un- 
 interrupted success. With this name on Silk, 
 Twist and liraid, all of one shade to match the 
 garment and each other, no thoughtful buyer 
 hesitates. 
 
 NONOTUCK SILK CO., 
 
 18 Suminer Street, Boiton, Mais. 
 
 Ask /or Cortiielli Sil/c and Braiti ami see 
 
 that yoii get it. 
 
 ;W.: 
 
ONE 
 
 OF THE OLDEST 
 OF THE BEST 
 
 :V 
 
 MOST 
 
 POPULAR AND 
 RELIABLE 
 
 Judson & Co.'s personally conducted parties leave 
 BOSTON EVERY TUESDAY AT 3.00 P.M. 
 
 r-'OR KANSAS. COLORADO. OREGON. WASHINGTON, CALIFORNIA 
 AND ALL POINTS WEST. 
 
 New Upholstered Pullman Tourist Sleeping Cars. Best Service. Lowest Rates. 
 
 REMEMBER t'n<li exc-urslon Is In charge of .a competent luaimtfer. 
 
 INFORMATION COSTS BUT THE TROUBLE OF INQUIRY. 
 
 rOLDEBS AMD ILLUSTRATED GUIDES FREE. 
 
 NO 11-;.— Iiiliiimtliinul Sli'imu'rn U'livliiu Si. .lolili M Iii.v iiuikc cIIiitI (Diiiioilldiif.. 
 
 JUDSON I COMPANY, m WASHINGTON STREET. BOSTON. 
 
 Brasoh or 1805. 
 
 Boston and Philadelphia Steamship Company. 
 
 Forty Hours at Sea. EXCURSION TR ' P TOP"' LADELPHIA . 
 
 A capital clianve to enjoy the cooling breezeH 
 of the ocusn, by the Itoiiton and l'hUii<l«lphla 
 Stenmahlp Company's SteamabipK, Indian, 
 I'akthian and Hpaktan. 
 
 Stesnitm leavi' Boston from the South Side 
 of Ccntnil Wharf every Wedn^iday and 
 Saturday, at 3 p.m. Due In Piiiladki.puia 
 Friday and Monday a.m. 
 
 Leave Phii.adbu-iiia from I'lor SO, South 
 Wharven, foot of Tine Street, every Tues- 
 day and Friday at 3 p.m. Due la Bos'Ton 
 
 Thursday and Sunday a.m. 
 
 Aocuramuilatlona Hnt-claa*. Fare for 
 AiIiiHm, SIO RmcIii Clilltlren under ten 
 years of atce. •.) each ; .Meals, and Berth lu 
 Btatorooni Included. Exiiursloii tivketH to 
 Philadelphia and return by either Steamer, 
 •IH. No pasiage secured until paid for and 
 number of berth and stateroom entund on 
 ticket. For further particulars, apply at 
 the otUce of the Company. 
 
 F. P. WING, Agent, Central Wharf, Boston. 
 
 GEO. C. ECKHARDT, Agent, 338 So. Del. Ave., Philadelphia. 
 
i<ii>lii<w>iii<iriPn<wMawfc>ai* 
 
 AR AND 
 lABLE 
 
 ipagles. 
 
 ties leave 
 P.M. 
 
 N.CALIFORNIA 
 
 Lowest Rates. 
 
 iiipL'tciit iimiiafrcr. 
 
 NQUIRY. 
 
 IIIIIM'tlllllK 
 
 REET. BOSTON. 
 
 ly- 
 
 Sbasom or 189S. 
 
 I PHILADELPHIA. 
 
 y a.m. 
 
 ■tclMi. Fare for 
 Clilltlren under ten 
 ; Muiila, and ttvtth tu 
 excursion tivketH to 
 rn by either Slenmcr, 
 jred until paid fur and 
 stateroom entund on 
 particular*, apply at 
 ny. 
 
 ,, Philadelphia. 
 
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Cliarlottetown Steam Naviotion Co., Limited. 
 
 PHIHCE EDWHHD ISL0ND 
 
 l//a POINT DU CHENE and PICTOU. 
 
 ®^mmmWL ARRAllGEMUSftT— 1895. 
 
 The fine twin screw steamer " Northumberland," of this comiiany, will leave 
 Sumnierside at 8.00 a.m dailv, Sundays excepted, for Point du Chene. Keturnmg, 
 will leave Point du Chene on arrival 'of morning train from St. John. 
 
 The steamer " St. Lawrence " will leave Charlottetown at 6 a.m. daily, Sundays 
 excepted, for Pictou. Returning, leave Pictou daily on arrival of morning train 
 from Halifax. 
 
 Passengers for St. John and intermediate points leave Charlottetown at 7.00 a.m. 
 by rail, connecting with steamer at Sumnierside for Point du Chene, arriving at St. 
 John same evening. 
 
 FRED W. HALES, Manager, Charlottetown. 
 
 LONG ISLAND, 
 
 NEAR LUBEC, ME. 
 
 One and one third iniles long and one third mile wide, com- 
 prising about 550 acres. The Island is rich in natural beauty, the 
 surface being pleasantly diversified between hilly bluffs, gentle un- 
 dulations and level land. 
 
 Building lots for sale. Inquire of 
 
 PAS8AMAQU0DDY LAND AND IMPROVEWENT CO. 
 
 F. G. DAVISON, 266 Washington Street, BOSTON. 
 
- -. -■>-—.^---,^.l-f,jp.,»)»»^ .-.^f f-- 
 
 )., Limited. 
 
 ND 
 
 595. 
 
 ipany, will leave 
 enc. Returning, 
 )hn. 
 
 n. daily, Sundays 
 of morning train 
 
 etownat 7.00 a.m. 
 le, arriving at St. 
 
 harlottetown. 
 
 D, 
 
 lile wide, coni- 
 ral beauty, the 
 uflfs, gentle un- 
 
 EMENT CO. 
 
 STON. 
 
 The Ne=mat=ta=no, 
 
 AT NORTH LUBEC, ME. 
 
 This popular hotel will open for the season July ist, 1895. 
 
 One hundred feet above the sea level. 
 
 Large Concert Hall in connection with hotel. First-class 
 Bowling Alleys, Tennis Courts, Boats and Caf^s. 
 
 Within easy distance of St. Andrews Bay, Magaguadavic River, 
 Mahar Falls, Campobello, Grand Manan, Quoddy Head, and other 
 places of note. 
 
 The New England Y. M. C. A. Summer Encampment is held at 
 this place in July and .August. 
 
 There will be Tournaments, Excursions and Concerts. 
 
 For hotel rates, address 
 
 R. M. ARMSTRONG, Manager, NORTH LUBEC, ME. 
 
■l >^ iia.iMmi1|- |Ml Tr1Hwt«F ili r-- I I 
 
 ^ilUide 
 
 v.,.v 
 
 Merchant 
 
 PLEASANTLY LOCATED NEAR LUBEC, - - MAINE. 
 
 STEAMBOAT LANDING. W. B COTfLE. Proprietor. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS LIVKRV STABLE 
 
 IN CONNECTION WITH 
 
 THE HOUSE. 
 
 TERMS MODERATE. 
 
 W. J. MALLMAN, 
 
 Proprictor. 
 
 PERMANENT AND TRANSIENT 
 
 BOARDERS ACCOMMODATED 
 
 AT REASONABLE RATES. 
 
 Hot and Cold Water. 
 
 Electric Bells. 
 
 Flr»t-elasR Mvery stable In connection. 
 
 LUBEC, 
 
 MAINe. 
 
 W. B. MOWRY. 
 
 IF YOU WANT 
 
 DEALKRIN 
 
 READY-MADE CLOTHING. 
 
 (1ENT8' FURNISHING GOODS. 
 
 HATS AND CAPS. 
 
 PUT THE LUBEC HERALD 
 ON YOUR LIST. 
 
 COVER THE TERRITORY YOU 
 WANT TO COVER. 
 
 ADVKBTISIKG KATES, 00 (TS. PKB INCH, 
 CASH IN ADVANCE." 
 
 WATER STREET, 
 
 XitrSEC, - - - StC^ZXTS. 
 
 All kinds of pluin and fancy Job printing 
 at City prices. 
 
 Mail orders receive prompt attention. 
 Circular work a specialty. 
 
 LUBEC HERALD, 
 
 LUBEC, ME. 
 
Hotel, 
 
 MAINE. 
 
 Proprietor. 
 
 TRANSIENT 
 IM MO DAT ED 
 .E RATES. 
 
 ir. 
 
 ctric Bells. 
 
 Iv in connection. 
 
 :C HERALD 
 LIST. 
 
 RITORY YOU 
 :OVER. 
 
 BO (TN. PKB INCH, 
 VAHCE. 
 
 I fiincy jolj i)rintlns( 
 
 ompt attention, 
 iilty. 
 
 ERALD, 
 
 LUBEC, ME. 
 
 '-trf^'"-"" *^-^'i».n^'"^-^---.-H ■ .-JT,i---,-i^^sfci< 
 
 WOODBRIDGE BAGGAGE TRANSFER, 
 
 Dice at Mentioiial SteanM; Coviy's Ml, 
 
 Authorized Agents of the above-named Express are in wait- 
 ing at the landing of the steamers of the International 
 Steamship Company to forward baggage to all 
 parts of the city and suburbs, also to all 
 trains and steamers. 
 
 J. S. WI'^'SLOW. 
 
 E. W. CI.ARK. 
 
 .AA»^A».>^^AA. 
 
 J.S. 
 * & CO. * 
 
 SHIP 
 BROKERS, 
 
 -AND DEALERS 1N« 
 
 SHIP STORES AND CHANDLERY. 
 
 ■ AGENTS ■ 
 
 Nos. 135 and 137 COMMERCIAL STREET, 
 
 Portland, Maine- 
 
 V 
 
\., -w -rr^ 
 
 ' 300 Series." Hot Water Heater. 
 
 QURNEY 
 
 HOT WATER HEATERS, 
 
 Steam BoOers and Radiators, 
 
 For Heating Churches, Public Buildings, 
 
 Offices, Apartment Houses, Residences, 
 
 Green Houses, Etc., 
 
 By HOT WATER and STEAM. 
 
 "Ourncy" Radiator, 
 For H(it Wate'. 
 
 " Double Crown " Hot Water Heater. 
 
 The Acme of Perfection for their 
 Respective Requirements -- •• 
 
 Send for • ' How Best to Heat Our Homes, ' ' a valuable 
 treatise on Hot Water or Steam Heating. 
 
 durney Heater Mamifacturlng Co., 
 
 W3 Frank/in Street, Boston, Mass. 
 
 * (iiirney " Steam Hoiler. 
 
HY 
 
 ■ATERS, 
 
 :adiators, 
 
 lie Buildings, 
 Residences, 
 c, 
 
 STEAM. 
 
 ^aler Heater. 
 
 p their 
 
 's," a ¥aluable 
 Heating. 
 
 irlng Co., 
 
 1, Mass. 
 
 3kA^<^^2UK3il<l«««<^!* ; .«VC'M-«f.Urc»r>»3 ^ 
 
 "The Franklin" 
 
 AMERICA'S BEST TYPEWRITER. 
 
 A USEFUL GIFT FOR YOUR MINISTER. 
 
 A STANDARD MACHINE WITH UNIVERSAL KEY-BOARD, AT A 
 
 POPULAR PRICE. 
 
 
 _ jk 
 
 
 $75. 
 
 i^^^^^S^BnttSfl^^HflBH^I^^^^BP 
 
 $75. 
 
 H/IS NO EQUAL FOR BUSII\IESS OR PROFESSIONAL USE 
 
 Writes in Sioht, = = = = . 
 = = = Always in Aliontvient, 
 
 \nA challenges comparison with any other, especially in the most 
 essential points of simplicity, durability, speed, economy, alignment 
 and good work. Don't buy until you have seen and tried the 
 LATEST machine. Respectable Agents Wanted. Catalogue Free. 
 
 FRANKLIN TYPEWRITER MANUFACTURING CO., 
 
 i 
 
 BROOKLYN, N.V. 
 

 mmmm 
 
 \Vm. I). WiNHoii, I'ri'Klilfiil. S. T. SNDW, 'I'ri'iiHiii-fr. .Ia!<. K. Hkown, .\m>iil. 
 
 REVERE COPPER CO. 
 
 S' 
 
 P 
 
 369 ATLANTIC AVENUE, BOSTON, 
 
 242 SOUTH STREET, NEW YORK. 
 
 MANUFACTURERS AND DEALERS IN 
 
 COPPER AND YELLOW METAL SHEATHING, BOLTS, COM- 
 POSITION, COPPER AND YELLOW METAL NAILS, 
 COMPOSITION SPIKES AND SHIP FASTENING, 
 YELLOW METAL PUMP RODS, BRAZIERS' COP- 
 PER AND DIMENSION YELLOW METAL, 
 COLD ROLLED, AND PATENT LEVELED, 
 IN STOCK AND MADE TO ORDER. 
 
 I 
 
 SmTHDili COFFE FOR YACHTS A SFECIALTT. 
 
 Importers of Sheathing Felt. 
 
HdWN, Aifcnt. 
 
 30. 
 
 YORK. 
 
 TS, COM- 
 
 NAILS, 
 
 [NG, 
 
 P- 
 
 CIALTY. 
 
 BOpi^ iiTV BIDTEL, AJIERlGAJl HOUSE, 
 
 Calais, Maine. 
 D. M. OAnoNmit. pitoPHieroH, 
 
 A A 
 
 Conches to and from nil 
 traliiR nod atejimerB. 
 
 A A 
 Hotel Heated by Steaixi. 
 
 OALAfS, MAINE. 
 
 -Hlc First-class *-^ 
 Livery Connected. 
 
 J. G. HAMILTON, 
 
 PROPRIETOR. 
 
 I NSURE WIT H, 
 
 WHITLQGK, 
 
 ? 
 
 ST. STEPHEN, N. B. 
 
 FRED. S. HARTFORD, 
 
 « 
 
 LIVERY 
 
 AND 
 
 HACK 
 
 Calais, Maine. 
 Coaches to Steamers and Trains. 
 
 MARTIN CONE 
 
 Livery aod Sale 
 
 STABLE, 
 
 Main Street, 
 CALAIS, - MAINE. 
 
 HILL, PIKE & CO., 
 
 Wholesale 
 
 . . . DiHICT IMFORTBBS OF . . . 
 
 Molasses and Tea and Jobbers 
 of Flonr. 
 
 CALAIS, MAINE. 
 
 ^S- siell good, at Boston prices. Xo goods 
 at Retail. 
 
■ iziufcjgir- -a *^^ -^>^^* rtfcj v."itn -a i l ■ ff t.^jafcfefte*'^^^^*^'^ 
 
 Z.£/?i9//VG MERCANTILE HOUSES OF ST. JOHN. 
 
 MANCHESTER, ROBERTSON k ALLISON, 
 
 THE LARGEST DRY GOODS HOUSE IN THE MARITIME PROVINCES. 
 
 SII.KS, MANTI.KS, MII.I.INKKV, DRESS COi HiS, KUKS, 
 
 C.l.inKS, HOSIERY, UMHRKM.AS, Cl.OTHS, LACKS, 
 
 UNDERWEAR, WATERl'ROOKS, GENTLEMEN'S KURNlSHLNdS, CARPEI'S. 
 
 P^acaulay Bros. & Co. 
 
 VIcltoiM to llic city nre hoIIcIIciI to lli»|ii'ct our Htock of lilutielanc Dry Ooodn XiK'cliiltU'n : 
 
 DRESS GOODS, SILKS. LACES, VELVETS, FINE KID GLOVES, 
 
 . GENTLEMEN'S FURNISHING GOODS. 
 
 65 to 69 King Street, St. John, N.B. 
 
 LIMITED. 
 
 W. H. THORHE & COMPANY, -^ ==• 
 
 Fishing Tackle, Salmon Rods, 
 Forests' Flies and Lines. 
 
 WHOLESALE AND RETAIL. 
 
 40 TO 46 PRINCE WILLIAM ST., market square. 
 
 ST. JOHN, N.B. 
 
 FERGUSON & PAGE. C. & E. EVERETT, ji 
 
 JSWBIE,SR8. 
 
 .MANlKACTUREIiS OK 
 
 F^INK FURS. 
 
 DLimonds, Fine Jewelry, Watches, Oper.i ^^ ' — 
 
 LADIES' SEAL COATS, MADE FROM 
 Classes, also Souvenir Spoons, Silver Novelties. ! „gg.p LONDON DYED ALASKA SEAL 
 
 ' SKINS, A SPECIALTY. 
 
 43 King St., - ST. JOHN, N.B. 
 
 II King St.. St. John, N.B. 
 
IHN. 
 
 IISON, 
 
 (riNOES. 
 
 s, 
 
 ,ACKS, 
 
 ■i, CARPK IS. 
 
 mIh Sin'eltiltli'F" .' 
 
 s, 
 
 OODS. 
 
 I MIT ED. 
 
 lARE, 
 
 JRS._ 
 
 MADE FROM 
 LASKA SEAL 
 
 hn, N.B. 
 
 MiM . i ^ia K W a^ p^t^^ K ift ^tf afli< tw <^ ^ >i m il 
 
 Eiiitei Boilers anl laMis 
 
 . - - FOR HEATING - - - 
 Residences, Churches, Schools, 
 
 Stores ami Pnltlic Buildings by 
 
 —\ 
 
 STEAM AND HOT WATER. 
 
 , At Exeter, N. H., we make the •' Exeter' 
 I Heating Apparatus for Steam and Hot Waterl 
 I in a line that covers every possible requirement.! 
 I Here we simply make a prefUction.vig. : l 
 I If you contemplate the purchase of any such I 
 I apparatus— be it trifling or extensive— you willl 
 I err in failing to Srat inveatigate what we 
 I have to offer you. Our large illustrated Cata-' 
 lloguc is yours for the mere asking. 
 
 \% 
 
 SM^^ 
 
 [-fiqS. 
 
 EXETER Machine Works, 
 
 SALESROOMS. 3a OLIVER ST.. BOSTON. 
 
 WORKS: EXETER, N. H. 
 
 The past mo years have considerably modified 
 
 " Exeter" heating systems. 
 
 X)(t(!& 
 
 8*»L 
 
 The only heating Apparatus Com- 
 bining Safety, Economy, Efficiency 
 and Durability. 
 THE FIVE REQUISITES OF A PERFECT APPARATUS. 
 
 MANUFACTURED BY - - - 
 
 EXETER MACHINE WORKS. 
 
 WORKS: EXETER, N.H. 
 
 (32 OLIVER STREET, BOSTON. 
 SALESROOMS:], ^3 centre STREET, NEW YORK. 
 
THE 
 
 Intercolonial Railway 
 
 OF CANADA. 
 
 
 
 
 rite 
 
 Popular 
 Line. 
 
 Route. 
 
 Betuieen Montreal, Qaebee, St. John, Halifax, Sydney, C. B., and 
 
 Ppinee Edaiard Island. 
 
 THK I'KOPLE'S RAILWAY 
 
 makes fast time and low fares. Its equipment is of standard excel- 
 lence. Trains brilliantly lighted by electricity. Westinghouse .Automatic 
 Air Brakes. 
 
 A PERFECT TRAIN SERVICE. 
 
 No other route in America presents to tourists, pleasure seekers and 
 invalids so many unrivalled attractions. Pure air, splendid sea bathing and 
 a perfect panorama of delightful views. 
 
 The Intercolonial Railway traverses for 200 mdes the south shore c» the 
 majestic St. Lawrence, thence through the famous lake, mountain and vai;<;y 
 region of the Metapedia and Restigouche Rivers, unequalled for their mag- 
 nificent scenerv, and along the beautiful and pictures(iue shores of the Ik.ie 
 des Chaleurs and Gulf of St. Lawrence and the " Scenic Route through 
 Cape Hreton. Tourists should be sure to include its famous resorts m their 
 
 summer tour. , t ^ 1 • 1 
 
 Sportsmen will find the rivers, lakes and woods along the Intercolonial 
 
 unequalled. 
 
 SAFETY, SPEED AND COMFORT 
 
 Round trip tourist tickets, summer excursion and sea bathing tickets, 
 o-ood for passage between the 1st of June and last of October, are for sale 
 at all the principal railway and steamship agencies in Canada and United 
 States, 
 
 Guide books to the Intercolonial Railway, maps, hotel lists, books of 
 summer tours, also time tables can be had on application to city agents, or to 
 
 D. POTTINGER, General Manager. MONGTON, H.B. 
 JHO. K. LYONS, Gen' I Pass. Agent, MOHCTON, N.B. 
 
my 
 
 Route. 
 
 , C. B., and 
 
 ;:inflard excel- 
 ise Automatic 
 
 ; seekers and 
 ea bathing and 
 
 ill shore c' the 
 tain and valley 
 for their maj;- 
 ;s of the IJr.ie 
 ante " through 
 resorts in tlieir 
 
 e Intercolonial 
 
 lathing tickets, 
 cr, are for sale 
 la and United 
 
 lists, books of 
 :v agents, or to 
 
 , H.B. 
 M.B. 
 
 3Ucmovaurtum. 
 
 I 
 I 
 
iUcmovaudum. 
 

 PUBLISHED BY THE 
 
 NTERNATIONAL SlEAnSHIP Go 
 
i'|ijl »ll i y i' |w i n ' . i r.^ — 
 
 ■*^i 
 
 -' j^^6-^"i 
 
 Boston,, '^Ass, 
 r Portland, ■ 
 
 Eastport, 
 LuBEC cg Calais, Ae. 
 
 Campobello.StAndrcws 
 
 AND 
 
 5T. JOMN.N.B. 
 
 AND BEYOND. 
 
 \ 
 
 
A 
 
 i: >: 
 
 \- 
 
■H