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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mAthode. 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 ^m XSHERB^OOKB ^Mn/tHAM ^St.MLBAN&^f^gwKwf^ 1 ^^ \l9 si ^s:A r MVlv «^n",. e. X T BATHORST ^Jr .1 0^^ N£WCASTLe i Ml ^^' ^* CHf^THAM r? .CHATHAM JC ilfORL \mCHIBUCT :t\ "*^^V' ^ 4^' /^^ G£)>^1 fA^^/SZAA^OS ^^iNc ^>V^^. «» •OBecio lo c ORAND 0MANAN ID ,f ^ .HALIFAX *UJNeNBHR6 O i> r rAffMOUTHi XurefiPOOL \ LOCK PORT ^^£ \6HeRBH00Ki .^MAfHAM •«*^^ :ti*i^^ - — e: YS[^LBAft6^ Ncwi'omr WRUNOTONl rjom sBURTj, 'MONTPEUeH XBMGOIkX i&%TPORT l&f Vc*MPoeei.co lO fMcia, PK£JI!NNIP£SAUK£E^ .PORTLAND ...♦;; o i 1f» VLUBEC 0MAMAH ID ,#r^ .#• e> foi rptrti Zx -•••^ B'OSTON • 9/mfttu ,-•••' iv ^v i>- ^ -i \ c ^ O o i> r rAPMOU sfMATHAMJC ^^^ ^ wZ^ ^ F 'y^'^lj^ f^S^^^ S C' P^/ '^ **- ' i J^i--^ m^-M HBA_^^^^ .^^^^S »B»kT^ /_^=^ /r^»P^» ,i^^»"^^ B*'~j^_;1 -#-^^' --^"■11', ^^^—' 21:^7? i.'^ '■' '^L^^ ^ ffV' -^ r-- ' Wic^HMtPTOH^ ^^ . i *^-. - ~- ^ ^ Wi :y£ /? 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LUBEC t5^ A f^ -i \ 6 OR AND 0MANAN ID '.: ^/M««^«n ^'^jfeiy^*^* '#.-^ .HALIFAX ^ -:i'>%^ *UJNeNBUff& O O i> r fAfiMOUTHX f '^^^^m \LI\fePPOOL 'vtocxpour MernatioaaL#!g' ■^ND PRINi niTiiniii'i'i'Miiii rj5A Ti TOWARD THE SUNRISE Hi A (Guide T" TIIK SKACOAST KHSORTS OF HASTKRN MAINK NKW BinJNSWICK, NOVA SCOTIA ;. PKINCK HDWAKD ISLAND AND CAPH BRHTON. lIJ.rSTKATlvU '••..••• PUBLISHKD BY THK INTrCRNAXIONAT. STKAMSHIH COMl^ANV BOSTON. 1805. ^ i ^ .^TP.- INTERNATIONAL STEAMSHIP COMPANY. J. 15. COVLE, Manager, Portland, Me. E. A. WALDRON, General Agent, Hoston, Mass. ' \ ' ) Tukils imii (hiienil liiformatioii may be ohtaincii at the foUo-aHiig A)ienci,-s of the Company : — HOSTON, Mass. BOSTON, Mass. PORTK.'XNU, Me. EASTPORT, Me. CALAIS, Me. . ST. JOHN, N.li. E. A. Wai.dkon, r.eneml Agent, Commercml Wharf. A. J. Simmons, 211 Washington Street. H. P. C. Hbrsev, Railro.ail Wharf. .A. H. Leamtt, International S.S. Company's Wharf. Jas. I,. Thompson, Frontier Steamlmat Company. C. E. I.AEtHLEP, Reed's Point Wharf. Also at offices of Sonthern and Western Lines; the Fall River, Providence, Sionvigton and Norwich Line^ of Steamers: and in New Enslaml and the Provio'res. a ^ S' ^ R. A. tt'1'PI.Y CO., PRINTERS, liOSTOV 309 3MPANY. Mass. tjr A,^t'HL'it's of ommercial Wharf, reel. L"ompany'.s Wharf. )oat Company. arf. lence, Stonvigton and _L ^-^ 0.. ! t4 Q - .> «r c c) -i TABLE OF CONTENTS. PAGB POKM, SUNRISK I.ANU 4 INTRODl'CTORY KN VOYAGE - _ 7 THK NORTH .SHORK— BKACO.N'S— PORTL.V.NI) — K.VSTWARD FROM PORTLAND— MAIXK COA.ST AT .SUN.SKT — .SU-VRISK. PASSAMAyrODDY BAY - . . - ,q KA.STPORT— CAMI'OHKI.LO— LUBEC— SrRROrNDINC. TOWNS. GRAND MANAN ^ ACROSS THE BAY — CLIFFS OK MANAN — SALINK TVl'ES. THlv ST. CROIX -----... ST. ANDREWS— ROBBINSTON — UP RIVER TO CALAIS AND .ST. STEPHEN- LAKES VTOPIA AND ST. GEORCE. ST. JOHN 38 CITY AND RIVER — THE PICTIRK-SQIE VOYAGE TO FREDICRICTON — UPPER RIVER AND GRAND FALLS. FISHING GROUNDS 4/ THE TOBlyrE — MIRAMICHI— RESTIGOUCHE AND JACyiET— FISH AND GAME LAWS— EASTWARD TO MONCTON. PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND - ... ,8 THE GARDEN OK CANADA — SUMMERSIDE — CHARLOTTETOWN — RU.STICO— SPORTS— RURAL TYPES— THE RETURN. TO NOVA SCOTIA BY RAIL - 62 TANTRAMAR MARSHES — TOWNS EN ROUTE— HI.STORIC GROUNDS — THE REGION OF MINF:S— STRAIT OF CANSO. CAPE BRETON . . - . . . . gg THE BRAS D'OR LAKES— SYDNEY- HI.STORIC LOUISBURG — BAD- DF;CK — WHYCdcOMAGH — THE GREAT WILDERNESS. NOVA SCOTIA - - - - g DIGBY AND THK ANNAPOLIS BASIN — ANNAPOLIS AND THE VALLEY,— EVANGELINE'S LAND— GRAND PRE— MINAS BASIN — WINDSOR — HALIFA.V AND THK SOUTH SHORE- CONCH'SION. UliWW r .(i-— i - -- . i^Wl Hy thv warm breath of Siniinier gently famied, Awiiy from home and thoughts of care we steal Within the wide-decked ship whose eager keel. Spurning our shores, steers forth for "Sunrise I/.md. N'ow vast and multitudinous on each hand, The restless, surging ocean billows reel. And o'er their foam-capped crests to us reveal The outlines of a panorama grand,— Passamaquoddy's shores and i-lands iireeu, The rugged sea-girt cliffs of Grand Manan, iMirever washed by Fundy's mighty tides, Acadian fields, and Blomidon's steep sides. And Breton's Cape whereon the sun to man New rising in the western world is seen. ' ♦ * net). steal keel. rise I.iiiul." veal Mm^e-m^-:.,^:t>ts^ir^i^^ /ATgOD^^ VEXING question this, " How and where shall I spend my vacation ? " when a hundred attrac- tions offer themselves in tempting array. You may have "done" resorts near home till the desire for " something new " demands attention. Then allow me to offer a few suggestions. From the tourist's point of view there are always new worlds to conquer, fresh fields to visit, new experiences to live. The surprising thing is that so much remains so near at hand and so rich in entertain- ment. You may not appreciate how much lies in store for you " just over the border," in that region " toward the sunrise," that landscapes of unique and varied beauties wait to gladden your eye ; nor how novel may be your experiences under another flag. Not alone a land of strange and beautiful physical features, but also rich in historic memories and bathed in the soft glamour of romance. All this, and more, is true of that portion of Canada called the Maritime Provinces, the " Acjuod- die " of the Indian, the Acadia of the pioneers of France in the New- World. Who has not conjured up legends and tales at mention of " Passa- maquoddy," or felt a stimulus in the resounding names of " Grand Manan " or " Inindy " ? wliat sjiortsnian that lias not seen visions of noble game and Indian guides with deft paddles, to the music of such names as " Metapedia," " Restigouche," or " Miramichi "? Certainly none could have read " Mvangeline " without a longing for the fair fields of drand I'rt} and the mysterious forests of Hiomitlon. All this becomes reality for him who reads, by means of the water route of the well-established Intirnational Steamship Company, — a reality l)refaced l)y all the delights of an ocean voyage sans discomforts, — a voyage skirting the jjictured shores of more than half New Kngland, the waters of I'assaniatiuoddy and Fundy Hays, having Boston for its initial point, Portland and Eastport its intermediate landings, and St. John its terminal. 'I'his company has three side-wheel steamers, the " State of Maine," " Cumberland," and " New lirunswick," the two first named of about sixteen hundred tons burden, anil the latter of about one thousand tons, fitted with conveniences and luxuries of modern naval construction. The cuisine and service have long been a matter of note to travellers, and are kejjt at an unvaryingly high standard of excellence. In connection with its steamship lines this company has established a system of tourist routes and rates (see latter part of book), covering rail and steamboat lines necessary for reaching the summer resorts of Maine, as well as those within the Maritime Provinces of New Bruns- wick and Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island and Cape Breton, famous C.rand Manan, the charming Passama(iuoddy liay resting retreats of Campobello Island and St. Andrews-by-the-Sea. The reader will readily understand that the limited space afforded in a book of this tlescription will not allow of an exhaustive treatment of the many summer resorts reached by this company and its connections. A resume of personal observations, combined with numerous im- pressions of other and more careAil observers and writers, is all that the author can offer on this most fascinating of subjects. " See it for your- self" is the only perfect satisfaction. r '. ^ .1 Ti^tfm^fiti^iaaKii^'aAriii^i seen visions of ; music of such '? ut a longing for s of Hioniidon. the water route my, — a reality liscomforts, — a ;\v England, tlie on for its initial and St. John its 5tate of Maine," lanied of about i thousand tons, \\ construction. )te to travellers, ice. ' has established book), covering nmer resorts of of New Hruns- Hreton, famous ting retreats of pace afforded in treatment of the onnections. 1 numerous im- rs, is all that the See it for your- mr. NOKTU SHOKK- lii:AC()N'S-I'()RTI.ANI>- MAINK. (OAST AT SINSKT- SINKISK. l"rER an admonitory blast or two from the hoarse throat of the whistle, the polite suggestion, " All ashore that's going ashore," the heavy i)lash of stern and bow line by the steamer's side, the great |)iston plunges into the depths of the engine pit, and the ponderous wheels begin their revolutions, not to cease until two hundred and thirty miles and more have been spanned, and twenty-one thousand revolutions scored on the wonderfully human little register below. From the hurricane deck the roofs of the warehouses seem moving slowly away, the voyage is actually begun ; we would not bespeak for you any other than a balmy, sunny day, be it early or late summer, or mid-season, the great steamer, in its holiday attire of gay bunting, re- ceiving numerous little marine courtesies from small craft, glides out among the exhilarating scenes of a great harbor at the height of the season, and heads for the open sea. Perhaps for the first time you will realize, as )ou look back, what an evolution Boston is undergoing in its physical aspects at least, as the half-dozen recent architectural achievements assert themselves, and soar grandly heavenward. Wonderfully striking and picturesque it is, sug- gestive perhaps also of the " Greater Boston " that is to be ; the gilded dome sinks into a secondary position, dwarfed by the superior tow- ers that stand before it. The steamer is now swiftly leaving the city behind and bringing into view the islands of the harbor, — (lovernor's, with il;i sullen, silent Fort 7 i' Wintlirop, on the left, Castle Island, with massive waiU ol" Fort Inde- pendence on the right, tied to South lioston by a many-spanned bridge, and fcjllowing the main ship channel, Spectacle and I,ong Islands glide silently by. That large gr()n|) of buildings on the left is not a stmimer resort exactly, although it is (|uite a favorite retreat for certain individuals who frequent it at the invitation ami expense of the municipality '. A mile or so and we are off the northern end of Long Island and Nix's Mate, with (Jalloui^e's and I.ovell's beyond. It is just here that our course is brcjuglU around to N. K. by K. and we are Iieaded straight for Cape Ann ; on our right, again, the striking group of the I'.rewsters swings into view, (Ireat, Middle, and Outer; just beyond and over the Middle, looming white in the morning sunlight, stands the tower of Boston Light. "Though if a cloud-shade chance to dip Upon it a moment, 'twill sutklcnly sink. Levelled and lost in the darkened main, Till tlic sun liuilds it suddenly up again As if with a rub of Aladdin's lamp." The broad waters of Massachusetts Bay open up before, sprinkled with many a flying sail, the line of smoke from a distant steamer deli- cately pencilled along the soft summer sky. Nahant, first to appear of the group of headlands along the North Shore, lifts itself as a kind of promise of much that is to follow. Behind it a golden thread moors it to the land, then melts away on either side in glistening, shining strands, — the beaches of Revere and Lynn. The moving panorama shifts again, and another bold peninsula stretches out along the northern horizon, flanked by the white beaches and glowing bits of ledge of Swampscott on oiie side, the dim out- lines melting into mist on the other. It is Marblehead Neck ; from it to the many spires of Lynn a chain of summer colonies, basking in the mellow light, close on our port the tiny light on Egg Rock. As the light on the neck comes into full view, " Xot far aw.iy we see the port, "• • The strange, old-fashioned, silent town, , The lighthouse, the dismantled fort, ^ ! ■ The wooden houses, quaint and brown " of Marblehead itself, that delightful old town of song and story, gnarly, knotty, loyal, and conservative. Salem, scarcely less interesting in its picturesfiueness, modestly retires to its snug harbor behind Marblehead, and is scarcely discernible through the haze of an early morning, dim • 8 1 VJ, ..-^■JBMIW'V-."- i of Fort Iiidf- ipanncd bridge, ig Islands glide not a siiminer •tain individuals ipality : A mile md Nix's Mate, It our course is aiglit for Cape ters swings into er the Middle, if Boston Light. efore, sprinkled t steamer deli- st to appear of If as a kind of hread moors it ihining strands, bold peninsula white beaches , the dim out- Neck ; from it basking in the Rock. As the I story, gnarly, teresting in its id Marblehead, morning, dim and >liadowy like the tales that Hawthorne wove from the witc hery of Salem's olilen time. Indeed, how saturated with the glamour of romance and tradition is all this northern shore, from I'.oston I5ay to I'ortsmouth town I How many names dear to New England's heart, or written on fame's fair scroll, are suggested to the mind of the beholder ! From Salem to Cape Ann's rocky verge is an almost continuous i)ro- cession of country villas ; creations of many of the first architects of our day; homes of elegance, luxury, and refinement. Heverly, Manchester, Magnolia, all of them backeil by mile upon mile of bronze green verdure. Eastern Point, another of our favorite haunts, supporting on its bald front a light, marks the entrance to Cdoucester and its ami)le harbor, from whose remote shelter a score of sail are lazily drifting. For some time jjast two gray towers have l)een growing out of the distance, like the dim portals to some mysterious haven, out there be- yond Cape .Ann, — " 'I'wo pale sisters all alone. On an island hleak ami hare," — the Cape Ann lights of Thatcher's Island, first to the eye of the trans- atlantic pilot, first, also, in their classification and importance, their twin columns rising a hundred and twelve teet skyward, constituting, with Boston Light, the Shoals, and Cape Elizabeth, the great guideboards, as it were, from Boston to Portland. It is just here that the steamer's course is shaped, either for Portlaiul or Eastport as the case may lie ; if for the latter, east by north, to Matinicus Light, if the former, as our pres- ent purpose requires, then it is for Cape Elizabeth Light, and within sight of the Isles of Shoals, those " half-dozen fragments of wave-worn rock, thrust up from the bottom of the sea, like the cast-off remnants of a continent," that wonderful, sunny archipelago, like "A string of pearls they lie c)n Ocean's bre.ist, Steeped in a languor brought them from afar." They, too, have been sung by poets and limned by artists as no other island group along our coast. It seems (juite apropos that the light- keeper's daughter should possess a poet's soul, should be the annalist and idealizer of its charms and mysteries. The indefinite and misty shore line that reaches in a vari-hued are from Cape Ann to Cape Neddick we know to be the boundary of three States on the ocean side, the strands to which so many thousands flee for their breath of salty air and cooling bath ; Agamenticus only, the storied hill of York, standing out in strong relief, a sort of beacon to ^ 11 is guide the sailor to a salt- JKuiior. Ibis liiii iiad iit.'( iiliar fascinations to tiic Indian, a tradition averring tlial St. Aspfiniiiid. a propiiet and saint of tliesc |ii'o|(lo, was interred wilii sasage jionijjof fniierai rites upon its summit ; let us be tliankful thai its sonorous name still lives, tiv.ugli Charles I. sought to distinguish it with the name of lioston. Moon Island and its light, that romes just in line with .\gauienti( lis, stands out in soli- tary isolation, some ten miles from shore or neighbor. It is about this time when blue roat and brass buttons, assisted by a bell, aimounces diiuier, and an opportunity offers to discover that one (an get as perfect service on a steamer as on shore, // he is on the present steamer. Returning to our picture gallery on deck, nearly three hours of c(jn- stant ilelight is exjjerienced prior to arrival off ('a])e I'lli/abeth, //v',-7(/( of Scarborough antl Old Urchanl beaciies, curving gracefully around to westward and Wood Island Light farther still to Cape Porpoise and dear old Kennebunk, fifteen miles or so away, every inch of it mouldy with the history of two hundred years and more. Pathetic history, too, some of it, that of decadence from the palmy days of shipbuilding to be awakened again by the advent of " improvement companies" with their jingling ducats. The twin lights ot l^li/.abeth, range lights they are called, one a " first-order fixetl," the other a flashing light, are among the finest of our exceptionally fine lighthouse service. We seem to be competent to Airnish guidance at any rate, if other powers furnish ships, — something to be grateful for ! The High Head of Cape Elizabeth might more aptly be called Cahbagdicmi ! for aside from lighthouses and rock it lUiu to cabbages, six thousand tons of them raised in one year ! Another croj) also seems indigenous to this spot, one not as profitable or pleasing to contemplate, one " sown Ijy the tempest, reaped by the whirlwind " lO I nitfr I tlllrffltfe -,>n.^=r{,-u'-^^3aljaia^Y- .JsJ^iao:^ ig^ ^SlmK^tSiU^ fascinations to )I)iiet and saint \\ rites npun its 11 lives, tlv.ugli 1. lio(in Island andsont in soli- it is about this hell, announces n get as perfec t / steamer, e hours of c(jn- '.aheth, proviiiiii )niously rushing uninier lands of jfully arounil to )rpoise and dear it mouldy with story, too, some [)l)uilding to he nits" with their i called, one a iig the finest of be competent to ps, — something ;th might more and rock it runs year ! Anotiier table or pleasing the whirlwintl " as it were, for periiaps no one locality Maine coast-wise has seen so maiiv wrecks. One jiage alone from the marine diary will suffice, its date Sei)temher 26, 1889, when several h()|icless wrecks strewed Kli/ai)eth and Scarborough shore I liut tliese are not congenial sui)jects. an been tried iiy fire, that famous disaster of July 4, 1H66, wipini,' out nearly one iialf the ( ity, and esiilaining the air of newness in its western section, enhancing perhaps the value of tiie iiislori( remains, revealing, too, the signitlcance of its seal, the phd-nix rising from ashes and bearing the legend, " Kesurgam." liut the views, yes. and sinh views ! those of liramhall's and Mun- joy's hills, or " Western and Eastern promenades," as they are now known , from one, — " 'I'liu ^WLLp of ;i lii»l 111 iniMiiU.iiio, riif ll.isii iif \\ liiiiuliid lilN " J Stroudwater and Presumpcott v/inding through their evergreen beds, and the White Momitains scarce sixty miles away ; and from the other, the fairy archipelago of Casco Bay, — no, it is not strange that our ])oet often recurs to the fair home of his youth : — "Often I think of the heaiitiful town That is seated by the sea ; , Often in thought go up and ilown The pleasant streets of that dear old town, - ' And my youth conies back to nie " ; n riawiK-asi.-. - TiW i ■ '■ ■sx^a^api H nr lli.it iii.my of (.iir writers fi-lt drawn to its iiuilinK siuidcs. C.miI.I iIhtc Ik- iiifiiti..iH'(l .iny .jiy ,,f \o\v KnK'iaiul iiK.rc di'siral.k- a>> a siim- inir roM)rt? A tfm|HTatiiri- always mil.l ; a hroatli In.ni t lie sea ever innviiijr; an incxhaiistil.lo list nf cvnrsion trips always in hand ; a social lift- tiiat is eminently • Hut to renew our Icssuii in geography, after passing the (ireen Islands, Broad Sound opens on the left, and beyond, Merriconeague Sound with Harpswell's Neck on its left, IJailey's and storied Orr's on the right. This brings us to Half-Way Rock with its granite shaft and light, sup- posedly e(iuidistant from Portland and the Kennebec, init actually " half- way from nowhere," as the pilot i)uts it. Our course is now made east by north, and from Half-Way to Seguin Light is fifteen miles. Northward lay Harpswell's historic shores, and on the other hand, " Far out at sua. The ships that tlee Along the dim horizon line, Their sails nnfuKI Like cloth of gold, Transfigured l)y that light divine." After i)assing Cape Sinall, Seguin, which has been growing steadily, looms proudly before us, just a trifle to jjort, lifting its head two hundred feet in air, marking most appropriately the estuary of the Kennebec. The labyrinthine coast line stretches away into purple distance, flecked with brilliant touches of sunlight on the myriad summer houses that throng the shores of Popham. It is eiTiinently fitting that " M'nhiggin," as the old salts call it, bathed in sunset glory should mark the close of day. Historic, romantic, delicious old Monhegan, beloved by pirate, trader, fisherman, and artist as well, for wellnigh three centuries ! Its light guiding the storm-chased mariner, its tiny harbor, just inside Monanis, a refiige for many a belated fisherman. Monhegan is in actuality two islands, the little Monanis separated by a few rods only from the iiiain island ; its fishing settlement oflering a unique study for the socialist and a perfect " find " for the artist. It is almost an annoyance to be called to supper when absorbed in the glories of a sunset at sea, were it not for the whetted appetite that clamors, and the table which i)resents a menu that is a work of art in itself. Then satisfy the physical, that the a;sthetic sense may the more freely enjoy the feast oflered from the hurricane deck later. The long twilight of summer lingers caressingly along the horizon far astern, and " Looking across where the line of coast Stretches darkly, shrinking away from the sea, The lights spring out at its edge." All the tints of opal and pearl shell play in the steamer's seething »7 / I M I »WWIi !■ UWBBi'iMWW :1 wiikc ; Monlicgan's watchttil eye sparkles ami fleams tnnii its s<)nil)re throne t;ir to the northward; thirty miles away t'aniden's noble moun- tains may l)e descried ; Matiniciis, scarce distinj,'iiishal)le from a lesser star, beckons us on ; while out to sea the billows are crooniiij; their cease- less lullaby. We are off IVnobscot Hay, where the great river " comes to meet and mingle with his own bright bay." 'i'his is the land of the Norseman, the region of shadowy Norimibega, the favorite vantage ground of early discovery, of Jean I'armentier, Ramusio, Jean Alfonse, Roberval, and Chamiilain, the scene also of the romantic adventures of old liaron Castine, whose name still lives in the ipiaint town named for him on the Magadnce. 'i'his is a time for reveries, when sjjeech is useless and silence golden. Onward, still onward, "toward the sunrise," through the vast areas of time and space, and the long restful hours of a night at sea, past Mt. Desert's blue-black forms ami the stately beacons that guartl the i)ine- tree coast. At early morn one is awakened by call of the bell boy or the light of a])proaching ilay, and looking out finds far to the north the sharp blue line of the Eastern Maine hills. \Ve are off Machias, the l)old headlands of Cutler, rock-rilibetl, and defiant push boldly out against the brine. The peculiarly sharp jieak is Bool Head, and near at hand Eastern Head. Eastward, and still fixrther away, looms Grand Manan, crowned with the flaming tiara of a matchless sunrise. An hour or more of steaming in the ilelicious ozone and West Quoddy Light is saluted, its striped sides standing in sharp contrast against the green background of Quoddy Head ; a moment later our pilot directs, " North, northwest," and a sharp turn discloses the southern entrance to Quoddy Roads, and the fair village of Lubec, crowning a hiil, gleaming white in the sunlight. On the right at close range is Campobello, that coveted spot of many charms. At last we are at the " end of things," the extremity of Uncle Sam's domain. It is not diflicult to realize the pilot's skill as we note the tortuous course of the great steamer 'mid fish weirs, buoys, and jutting points, till at last the Eubec narrows with its ferocious currents is passed and the landing at Lubec reached. One recognizes on coming out into Friar Roads, that lie just before Lubec, what it is that attracts the hundreds, and is destined to call its thousands to Passamaquoddy or " Quoddy " Bay, as it is more commonly known. Its glistening waters are alive with schooners, trim yachts, busy ferry steamers, and countless small craft of every kind ; islands float in smiling content, revealing atween their evergreen summits distant glimp- ses of mountain, and reaches of Quoddy Bay. 19 » '^mt -aiiii^ijaA^ViririiiiiTi 'iwii- 1 lii Mi i:~ I i I I 1- KASirokl - KKSOUIS ON THK IIAV - MKK(HNIilN(i roWNS-CKANlt MANAN. ■J' is (.■viilcnt Iniiii iIk- inoiiicnt o( arrival at Eastport lliat it is an intcnsuly active and luistling town, a sort of ( ondcnsed Yankct' land, inti-nsified as an object lesson to our more easy-gonig Canadian neighbors. 'I'iiis ,1^ being the very centre of the great Kastern resorts, the ,1 ■ fotal point from whence tourists radiate to the score of hotels and small towns that cater to stmimer travel, it is (juite ai)propriate that it should receive first attention. I'lie first thing that imjjresses a stranger (via his nostrils) is the herring and sardine industries, whose i)acking houses line the water front, each with its fishing boats in attendance. To be literal, the output of smoked herring is two million boxes or more, and of canned sardines (so called), three hundred thousand cases, of which the International freights the major part. Wandering up from the landing tiirough the main street, the evidences of the fire of 1887 are omnipresent in the new structures bearing that date. 'I'he handsome new library building, erected by private be(|uest recently, heading the list, the substanial granite government building flanking the farther end. 'I'hroughout tlie town many (|uaint old homesteads remain to keep alive the memory of the past, which for its situation Eastport has little of importance to show. it is to the hill back of the town and back of Fort Sullivan, where now is placed the water tower, that the visitor's feet should turn, for it is just here, if we mistake not, that all the matcliless beauty of the Quoddy region unfolds itself as at no other point. The eager eye drinks in a mosaic of land and water in every direction. Northward into the heart of the St. Croix and the Chamcook Mountains ; easterly, upon the fair bosom of Quodily Bay, set with a hundred isles ; easterly still and southward across the noble mass of Campobello and old ocean ; still farther, to Grand Manan, that lifts its purple wall along the horizon, — ao (>rNiiiN(; at Eastpoit tliat town, a sort of an object lesson ji},'lil)ors. This stum resorts, the e to the score of nnier travel, it is ■ first attention, s) is the herring vater front, each utpiit of smoked lines (so called), nal freights the the main street, new structures reeled by private lite government .vn many (juaint : past, which for : Sullivan, where louid turn, for it s beauty of the eager eye drinks rthward into the isterly, upon the tjasterly still and M ocean ; still ; the horizon, — -. - ^j^i^Qunn L'q^TPoRT'.j iMiSia^mtmm^mifm 1 ! i ; I ti t cvcrywlu'iv, in .ill iliiri ti(iii>. lu'w in\>Urii^ nl' l.uul .iml w.iut fii.y.i^t' and I ,iiiii\,iti' the ItilmltUr. Tlii-. nulilr i'1h« I.iuiIm .ipi' i^ lrnl\ K.ist- |Miil'i niii-t jiiii i()ii> li'^.ii \ . "WiIMIk ri.iiiti'i- km« Imw Htriini;lv WoiUs tliv fiiriii oil liiiiii.iii tlll>ll^l1l ; I iiiii«r wliiil ^iinl iiiirpiiM' liiid 111' 'I'll (li.iw all l.iiii if^ 111 llii- -|nit." .\> any ono will not in.' >\'>\\ lo discuvcr, Ka>>i|)()rt is on an islaiul, MociM.' Wy naini. wliosc ( ()nnf<'ti(in with tlu' niainlanil is liy a bridge, spanninji tiu' narmw sliiji ot" watfi' Howinj,' rmni ('olistuok liay, whirl), with NW'st (Jiuiddy liay, ( om])lctL's tlu' cm iidin^,' nirdk'. Hourly sloanicr (onncMtiun with ( 'anil Id! ii'llo. i.ulicc, and Ndrth l.nlitc. half as olU'n with I'cnilirokc or Dcnnysv ilk', daily with St, Andrews, Koliliinston, Calais, Cirand Manan, andSt. John, — what nu-rc enticing list of pleasure trips ( onld one a>k? , CAMPOBELLO, being nearest, would naturally demand attention, its twin hotels of a-sthetic Imild, T'yn-V-foed and Ty'n-V Mai's ("The house in the wood" and "The house in the (lelil"), placed high on the hill, flanked by the magnificent Friar's Head, and the .piaint settlement of Welsh- pool. You will visit, of course, the old ( )wen Manor House, the home of the Admiral iMt/.william ( )wcn, to whom the island was grantetl in 1767, and whose burial by candle-light in tiie tiny family chapel was the fitting close to an eccentric life ; will then run over to the Friar's Head, and across, by one of the most romantic bits of woodsy road in all Canada, to the lovely Cove and Lake of C.len Severn, Harbor de Lute, and among the hundreil aljiine paths that cover like network the stupentl- ous Eastern Head. And then, our kindest service would be, to advise a sojourn at the model hotels mentioned, allowing you to wander, tancy free, in search of the numberless and ever-new retreats that cover this Eden of an islan truly K.inI- t is on an islaiul, i