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LUBEC t5^ A f^ -i \ 6 OR AND 0MANAN ID '.: ^/M««^«n ^'^jfeiy^*^* '#.-^ .HALIFAX ^ -:i'>%^ *UJNeNBUff& O O i> r fAfiMOUTHX f '^^^^m \LI\fePPOOL 'vtocxpour MernatioaaL#!g' ■^ND PRINi niTiiniii'i'i'Miiii rj5A Ti TOWARD THE SUNRISE Hi A (Guide T" TIIK SKACOAST KHSORTS OF HASTKRN MAINK NKW BinJNSWICK, NOVA SCOTIA ;. PKINCK HDWAKD ISLAND AND CAPH BRHTON. lIJ.rSTKATlvU '••..••• PUBLISHKD BY THK INTrCRNAXIONAT. STKAMSHIH COMl^ANV BOSTON. 1805. ^ i ^ .^TP.- INTERNATIONAL STEAMSHIP COMPANY. J. 15. COVLE, Manager, Portland, Me. E. A. WALDRON, General Agent, Hoston, Mass. ' \ ' ) Tukils imii (hiienil liiformatioii may be ohtaincii at the foUo-aHiig A)ienci,-s of the Company : — HOSTON, Mass. BOSTON, Mass. PORTK.'XNU, Me. EASTPORT, Me. CALAIS, Me. . ST. JOHN, N.li. E. A. Wai.dkon, r.eneml Agent, Commercml Wharf. A. J. Simmons, 211 Washington Street. H. P. C. Hbrsev, Railro.ail Wharf. .A. H. Leamtt, International S.S. Company's Wharf. Jas. I,. Thompson, Frontier Steamlmat Company. C. E. I.AEtHLEP, Reed's Point Wharf. Also at offices of Sonthern and Western Lines; the Fall River, Providence, Sionvigton and Norwich Line^ of Steamers: and in New Enslaml and the Provio'res. a ^ S' ^ R. A. tt'1'PI.Y CO., PRINTERS, liOSTOV 309 3MPANY. Mass. tjr A,^t'HL'it's of ommercial Wharf, reel. L"ompany'.s Wharf. )oat Company. arf. lence, Stonvigton and _L ^-^ 0.. ! t4 Q - .> «r c c) -i TABLE OF CONTENTS. PAGB POKM, SUNRISK I.ANU 4 INTRODl'CTORY KN VOYAGE - _ 7 THK NORTH .SHORK— BKACO.N'S— PORTL.V.NI) — K.VSTWARD FROM PORTLAND— MAIXK COA.ST AT .SUN.SKT — .SU-VRISK. PASSAMAyrODDY BAY - . . - ,q KA.STPORT— CAMI'OHKI.LO— LUBEC— SrRROrNDINC. TOWNS. GRAND MANAN ^ ACROSS THE BAY — CLIFFS OK MANAN — SALINK TVl'ES. THlv ST. CROIX -----... ST. ANDREWS— ROBBINSTON — UP RIVER TO CALAIS AND .ST. STEPHEN- LAKES VTOPIA AND ST. GEORCE. ST. JOHN 38 CITY AND RIVER — THE PICTIRK-SQIE VOYAGE TO FREDICRICTON — UPPER RIVER AND GRAND FALLS. FISHING GROUNDS 4/ THE TOBlyrE — MIRAMICHI— RESTIGOUCHE AND JACyiET— FISH AND GAME LAWS— EASTWARD TO MONCTON. PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND - ... ,8 THE GARDEN OK CANADA — SUMMERSIDE — CHARLOTTETOWN — RU.STICO— SPORTS— RURAL TYPES— THE RETURN. TO NOVA SCOTIA BY RAIL - 62 TANTRAMAR MARSHES — TOWNS EN ROUTE— HI.STORIC GROUNDS — THE REGION OF MINF:S— STRAIT OF CANSO. CAPE BRETON . . - . . . . gg THE BRAS D'OR LAKES— SYDNEY- HI.STORIC LOUISBURG — BAD- DF;CK — WHYCdcOMAGH — THE GREAT WILDERNESS. NOVA SCOTIA - - - - g DIGBY AND THK ANNAPOLIS BASIN — ANNAPOLIS AND THE VALLEY,— EVANGELINE'S LAND— GRAND PRE— MINAS BASIN — WINDSOR — HALIFA.V AND THK SOUTH SHORE- CONCH'SION. UliWW r .(i-— i - -- . i^Wl Hy thv warm breath of Siniinier gently famied, Awiiy from home and thoughts of care we steal Within the wide-decked ship whose eager keel. Spurning our shores, steers forth for "Sunrise I/.md. N'ow vast and multitudinous on each hand, The restless, surging ocean billows reel. And o'er their foam-capped crests to us reveal The outlines of a panorama grand,— Passamaquoddy's shores and i-lands iireeu, The rugged sea-girt cliffs of Grand Manan, iMirever washed by Fundy's mighty tides, Acadian fields, and Blomidon's steep sides. And Breton's Cape whereon the sun to man New rising in the western world is seen. ' ♦ * net). steal keel. rise I.iiiul." veal Mm^e-m^-:.,^:t>ts^ir^i^^ /ATgOD^^ VEXING question this, " How and where shall I spend my vacation ? " when a hundred attrac- tions offer themselves in tempting array. You may have "done" resorts near home till the desire for " something new " demands attention. Then allow me to offer a few suggestions. From the tourist's point of view there are always new worlds to conquer, fresh fields to visit, new experiences to live. The surprising thing is that so much remains so near at hand and so rich in entertain- ment. You may not appreciate how much lies in store for you " just over the border," in that region " toward the sunrise," that landscapes of unique and varied beauties wait to gladden your eye ; nor how novel may be your experiences under another flag. Not alone a land of strange and beautiful physical features, but also rich in historic memories and bathed in the soft glamour of romance. All this, and more, is true of that portion of Canada called the Maritime Provinces, the " Acjuod- die " of the Indian, the Acadia of the pioneers of France in the New- World. Who has not conjured up legends and tales at mention of " Passa- maquoddy," or felt a stimulus in the resounding names of " Grand Manan " or " Inindy " ? wliat sjiortsnian that lias not seen visions of noble game and Indian guides with deft paddles, to the music of such names as " Metapedia," " Restigouche," or " Miramichi "? Certainly none could have read " Mvangeline " without a longing for the fair fields of drand I'rt} and the mysterious forests of Hiomitlon. All this becomes reality for him who reads, by means of the water route of the well-established Intirnational Steamship Company, — a reality l)refaced l)y all the delights of an ocean voyage sans discomforts, — a voyage skirting the jjictured shores of more than half New Kngland, the waters of I'assaniatiuoddy and Fundy Hays, having Boston for its initial point, Portland and Eastport its intermediate landings, and St. John its terminal. 'I'his company has three side-wheel steamers, the " State of Maine," " Cumberland," and " New lirunswick," the two first named of about sixteen hundred tons burden, anil the latter of about one thousand tons, fitted with conveniences and luxuries of modern naval construction. The cuisine and service have long been a matter of note to travellers, and are kejjt at an unvaryingly high standard of excellence. In connection with its steamship lines this company has established a system of tourist routes and rates (see latter part of book), covering rail and steamboat lines necessary for reaching the summer resorts of Maine, as well as those within the Maritime Provinces of New Bruns- wick and Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island and Cape Breton, famous C.rand Manan, the charming Passama(iuoddy liay resting retreats of Campobello Island and St. Andrews-by-the-Sea. The reader will readily understand that the limited space afforded in a book of this tlescription will not allow of an exhaustive treatment of the many summer resorts reached by this company and its connections. A resume of personal observations, combined with numerous im- pressions of other and more careAil observers and writers, is all that the author can offer on this most fascinating of subjects. " See it for your- self" is the only perfect satisfaction. r '. ^ .1 Ti^tfm^fiti^iaaKii^'aAriii^i seen visions of ; music of such '? ut a longing for s of Hioniidon. the water route my, — a reality liscomforts, — a ;\v England, tlie on for its initial and St. John its 5tate of Maine," lanied of about i thousand tons, \\ construction. )te to travellers, ice. ' has established book), covering nmer resorts of of New Hruns- Hreton, famous ting retreats of pace afforded in treatment of the onnections. 1 numerous im- rs, is all that the See it for your- mr. NOKTU SHOKK- lii:AC()N'S-I'()RTI.ANI>- MAINK. (OAST AT SINSKT- SINKISK. l"rER an admonitory blast or two from the hoarse throat of the whistle, the polite suggestion, " All ashore that's going ashore," the heavy i)lash of stern and bow line by the steamer's side, the great |)iston plunges into the depths of the engine pit, and the ponderous wheels begin their revolutions, not to cease until two hundred and thirty miles and more have been spanned, and twenty-one thousand revolutions scored on the wonderfully human little register below. From the hurricane deck the roofs of the warehouses seem moving slowly away, the voyage is actually begun ; we would not bespeak for you any other than a balmy, sunny day, be it early or late summer, or mid-season, the great steamer, in its holiday attire of gay bunting, re- ceiving numerous little marine courtesies from small craft, glides out among the exhilarating scenes of a great harbor at the height of the season, and heads for the open sea. Perhaps for the first time you will realize, as )ou look back, what an evolution Boston is undergoing in its physical aspects at least, as the half-dozen recent architectural achievements assert themselves, and soar grandly heavenward. Wonderfully striking and picturesque it is, sug- gestive perhaps also of the " Greater Boston " that is to be ; the gilded dome sinks into a secondary position, dwarfed by the superior tow- ers that stand before it. The steamer is now swiftly leaving the city behind and bringing into view the islands of the harbor, — (lovernor's, with il;i sullen, silent Fort 7 i' Wintlirop, on the left, Castle Island, with massive waiU ol" Fort Inde- pendence on the right, tied to South lioston by a many-spanned bridge, and fcjllowing the main ship channel, Spectacle and I,ong Islands glide silently by. That large gr()n|) of buildings on the left is not a stmimer resort exactly, although it is (|uite a favorite retreat for certain individuals who frequent it at the invitation ami expense of the municipality '. A mile or so and we are off the northern end of Long Island and Nix's Mate, with (Jalloui^e's and I.ovell's beyond. It is just here that our course is brcjuglU around to N. K. by K. and we are Iieaded straight for Cape Ann ; on our right, again, the striking group of the I'.rewsters swings into view, (Ireat, Middle, and Outer; just beyond and over the Middle, looming white in the morning sunlight, stands the tower of Boston Light. "Though if a cloud-shade chance to dip Upon it a moment, 'twill sutklcnly sink. Levelled and lost in the darkened main, Till tlic sun liuilds it suddenly up again As if with a rub of Aladdin's lamp." The broad waters of Massachusetts Bay open up before, sprinkled with many a flying sail, the line of smoke from a distant steamer deli- cately pencilled along the soft summer sky. Nahant, first to appear of the group of headlands along the North Shore, lifts itself as a kind of promise of much that is to follow. Behind it a golden thread moors it to the land, then melts away on either side in glistening, shining strands, — the beaches of Revere and Lynn. The moving panorama shifts again, and another bold peninsula stretches out along the northern horizon, flanked by the white beaches and glowing bits of ledge of Swampscott on oiie side, the dim out- lines melting into mist on the other. It is Marblehead Neck ; from it to the many spires of Lynn a chain of summer colonies, basking in the mellow light, close on our port the tiny light on Egg Rock. As the light on the neck comes into full view, " Xot far aw.iy we see the port, "• • The strange, old-fashioned, silent town, , The lighthouse, the dismantled fort, ^ ! ■ The wooden houses, quaint and brown " of Marblehead itself, that delightful old town of song and story, gnarly, knotty, loyal, and conservative. Salem, scarcely less interesting in its picturesfiueness, modestly retires to its snug harbor behind Marblehead, and is scarcely discernible through the haze of an early morning, dim • 8 1 VJ, ..-^■JBMIW'V-."- i of Fort Iiidf- ipanncd bridge, ig Islands glide not a siiminer •tain individuals ipality : A mile md Nix's Mate, It our course is aiglit for Cape ters swings into er the Middle, if Boston Light. efore, sprinkled t steamer deli- st to appear of If as a kind of hread moors it ihining strands, bold peninsula white beaches , the dim out- Neck ; from it basking in the Rock. As the I story, gnarly, teresting in its id Marblehead, morning, dim and >liadowy like the tales that Hawthorne wove from the witc hery of Salem's olilen time. Indeed, how saturated with the glamour of romance and tradition is all this northern shore, from I'.oston I5ay to I'ortsmouth town I How many names dear to New England's heart, or written on fame's fair scroll, are suggested to the mind of the beholder ! From Salem to Cape Ann's rocky verge is an almost continuous i)ro- cession of country villas ; creations of many of the first architects of our day; homes of elegance, luxury, and refinement. Heverly, Manchester, Magnolia, all of them backeil by mile upon mile of bronze green verdure. Eastern Point, another of our favorite haunts, supporting on its bald front a light, marks the entrance to Cdoucester and its ami)le harbor, from whose remote shelter a score of sail are lazily drifting. For some time jjast two gray towers have l)een growing out of the distance, like the dim portals to some mysterious haven, out there be- yond Cape .Ann, — " 'I'wo pale sisters all alone. On an island hleak ami hare," — the Cape Ann lights of Thatcher's Island, first to the eye of the trans- atlantic pilot, first, also, in their classification and importance, their twin columns rising a hundred and twelve teet skyward, constituting, with Boston Light, the Shoals, and Cape Elizabeth, the great guideboards, as it were, from Boston to Portland. It is just here that the steamer's course is shaped, either for Portlaiul or Eastport as the case may lie ; if for the latter, east by north, to Matinicus Light, if the former, as our pres- ent purpose requires, then it is for Cape Elizabeth Light, and within sight of the Isles of Shoals, those " half-dozen fragments of wave-worn rock, thrust up from the bottom of the sea, like the cast-off remnants of a continent," that wonderful, sunny archipelago, like "A string of pearls they lie c)n Ocean's bre.ist, Steeped in a languor brought them from afar." They, too, have been sung by poets and limned by artists as no other island group along our coast. It seems (juite apropos that the light- keeper's daughter should possess a poet's soul, should be the annalist and idealizer of its charms and mysteries. The indefinite and misty shore line that reaches in a vari-hued are from Cape Ann to Cape Neddick we know to be the boundary of three States on the ocean side, the strands to which so many thousands flee for their breath of salty air and cooling bath ; Agamenticus only, the storied hill of York, standing out in strong relief, a sort of beacon to ^ 11 is guide the sailor to a salt- JKuiior. Ibis liiii iiad iit.'( iiliar fascinations to tiic Indian, a tradition averring tlial St. Aspfiniiiid. a propiiet and saint of tliesc |ii'o|(lo, was interred wilii sasage jionijjof fniierai rites upon its summit ; let us be tliankful thai its sonorous name still lives, tiv.ugli Charles I. sought to distinguish it with the name of lioston. Moon Island and its light, that romes just in line with .\gauienti( lis, stands out in soli- tary isolation, some ten miles from shore or neighbor. It is about this time when blue roat and brass buttons, assisted by a bell, aimounces diiuier, and an opportunity offers to discover that one (an get as perfect service on a steamer as on shore, // he is on the present steamer. Returning to our picture gallery on deck, nearly three hours of c(jn- stant ilelight is exjjerienced prior to arrival off ('a])e I'lli/abeth, //v',-7(/(</ you have not violated the laws of nature by unceremoniously rushing through the bill of fare I Just here we review the fair summer land> of Scarborough antl Old Urchanl beaciies, curving gracefully around to westward and Wood Island Light farther still to Cape Porpoise and dear old Kennebunk, fifteen miles or so away, every inch of it mouldy with the history of two hundred years and more. Pathetic history, too, some of it, that of decadence from the palmy days of shipbuilding to be awakened again by the advent of " improvement companies" with their jingling ducats. The twin lights ot l^li/.abeth, range lights they are called, one a " first-order fixetl," the other a flashing light, are among the finest of our exceptionally fine lighthouse service. We seem to be competent to Airnish guidance at any rate, if other powers furnish ships, — something to be grateful for ! The High Head of Cape Elizabeth might more aptly be called Cahbagdicmi ! for aside from lighthouses and rock it lUiu to cabbages, six thousand tons of them raised in one year ! Another croj) also seems indigenous to this spot, one not as profitable or pleasing to contemplate, one " sown Ijy the tempest, reaped by the whirlwind " lO I nitfr I tlllrffltfe -,>n.^=r{,-u'-^^3aljaia^Y- .JsJ^iao:^ ig^ ^SlmK^tSiU^ fascinations to )I)iiet and saint \\ rites npun its 11 lives, tlv.ugli 1. lio(in Island andsont in soli- it is about this hell, announces n get as perfec t / steamer, e hours of c(jn- '.aheth, proviiiiii )niously rushing uninier lands of jfully arounil to )rpoise and dear it mouldy with story, too, some [)l)uilding to he nits" with their i called, one a iig the finest of be competent to ps, — something ;th might more and rock it runs year ! Anotiier table or pleasing the whirlwintl " as it were, for periiaps no one locality Maine coast-wise has seen so maiiv wrecks. One jiage alone from the marine diary will suffice, its date Sei)temher 26, 1889, when several h()|icless wrecks strewed Kli/ai)eth and Scarborough shore I liut tliese are not congenial sui)jects. an<l while we are retrospecting, Portland Mead has "hove insight," its light the fust to shine on tiiis (oast, dating from 1790, and marking one extreme of Casco Hay, Seguin the other, and Half-Way its central point, or nearly so. Passing Kam Island, which looks jierfectly harmless, we are confronted by the rather imposing Ottawa House, charmingly placed on (bushing's Island, the most imi)ortant resort perhaps on the bay. Passing House Islan<l on which Fort Scammel solemnly stands, with Fort (lorges beyond, and historic l''ort I'reble on our left, we are fairly in Portland Harbor and before the fair citv itself. 1 1 ^^^ ii Tfe\J " The jircatest scai)()rt in the world could not have a more splendid or n)ore imposing approach," says Drake; and certainly none is more worthy of it than the Forest City, tiueen of Maine's municipalities, seated on her noble hill, the proud monarch of fair Casco Bay and of a harbor unexcelle<l on the Atlantic seaboard. Her streets, lined ami arched by stately elms, fronted by no less stately churches and colonial mansions, suggest her hii^toric i)ast, or recall the memory of her beloved poet, Longfellow ; with her numerous handsome civic and commercial buildings, her " inalienable freehold in pure air, generous sunshine, and the most ex(|uisite of sea-scapes," it is natural that Portland should prove attractive to a stranger, and on closer acipiaintance a most " livable " town. Po[)ulated by some twoscore thousand souls, the terminal of several railroad lines, the very heart, indeed, from which numerous railway arteries radiate, north, east, and west to the great seaside resorts of Maine, the White Mountains, and the woods, lakes, and streams of the north, and of course the first maritime city east of Boston, the temptation is strong to dwell on such a congenial subject much more than our limited space allows. Portland has a history, too, a rich and savory one ; dating from its incorporation as Falmouth in 1658, re-incorporated as Portland in 1 786, known also to the savage as Machigonne. Such names as Munjoy, Bramhall, Preble, Cleves, and a score of others keep alive the memories of those whose valor or greatness has made history. Of course every one will wish to find the old house of Peleg Wadsworth, he of Castine fame, and grandfather of the poet, standing near the hardly less venerable Preble House, and the birthplace of the poet on Fore Street. The antitpiated eastern cemetery will furnish material for a good day's rummaging among its moss-grown stones and tablets. Some hot naval engagements have taken place off Portland, that of the "Boxer" and "Enterprise" in 1814 leading the list. She also enjoys the distinction of being the only Northern port visited by rebels 12 .^•v more splenditi none is more palities, seateil 11(1 of a harbor letl by no less ■torir i)ast, or i her numerous )le freehold in a-scapes," it is , and on closer inal of several iicrous railway side resorts of 5treams of the the temptation nore than our id savory one ; ncorporated as igonne. Such 3f others keep i made history, eg Wadswortli, lear the hardly ; poet -on Fore al for a good jrtland, that of list. She also sited by rebels i«ir-iirri»atiiii i i irn i iMl i iiiartatr' - •i«t tT i 'fr ; dunn;; the C.'i.il War. s.k rilit in;; 1)\ lli.il (l.uiiij; feat here utter " Cu^liing." Portland, too ii.i> been tried iiy fire, that famous disaster of July 4, 1H66, wipini,' out nearly one iialf the ( ity, and esiilaining the air of newness in its western section, enhancing perhaps the value of tiie iiislori( remains, revealing, too, the signitlcance of its seal, the phd-nix rising from ashes and bearing the legend, " Kesurgam." liut the views, yes. and sinh views ! those of liramhall's and Mun- joy's hills, or " Western and Eastern promenades," as they are now known , from one, — " 'I'liu ^WLLp of ;i lii»l 111 iniMiiU.iiio, riif ll.isii iif \\ liiiiuliid lilN " J Stroudwater and Presumpcott v/inding through their evergreen beds, and the White Momitains scarce sixty miles away ; and from the other, the fairy archipelago of Casco Bay, — no, it is not strange that our ])oet often recurs to the fair home of his youth : — "Often I think of the heaiitiful town That is seated by the sea ; , Often in thought go up and ilown The pleasant streets of that dear old town, - ' And my youth conies back to nie " ; n riawiK-asi.-. -<i-nwa»^i^!^s5' ' 1 1 > TiW i ■ '■ ■sx^a^api H nr lli.it iii.my of (.iir writers fi-lt drawn to its iiuilinK siuidcs. C.miI.I iIhtc Ik- iiifiiti..iH'(l .iny .jiy ,,f \o\v KnK'iaiul iiK.rc di'siral.k- a>> a siim- inir roM)rt? A tfm|HTatiiri- always mil.l ; a hroatli In.ni t lie sea ever innviiijr; an incxhaiistil.lo list nf cvnrsion trips always in hand ; a social lift- tiiat is eminently <liarniinK and desirable; and a i'ui)lii: Library nf ^reat valne. It is bnt twelve miles fnini the < ity of Portland to Old Orchard l!ea<h. and the train delivers its passengers directly in the midst of one of the liveliest seashore scenes in the worl.l. The beach is but a hnndred yards distant, its great combing snrf line making itself known at once- The largest hotels upon the coast of Maine are here, and invite a sojourn. Old Or.hird ranks with Cape May and Atlantic City in |)opidarity with sinniner guests. It may be reached on the day of departm-e frnn'i Boston, in season for a six-o'clock tea. by the ocean day line in con- nection with trains at the I'ortlan.l rnion Station. The reader may fmd all this ;ind a IionI of other valnablo suggestions in i:i well's (Miide to the city. MITEHCflO •4 ■ Iiadcs. ('(Mild mIiIc as a siiin- II the si-a ever hand ; a social l)lii' Library ot' Ol.l Ordiard c midst of oiif liiit :i liiindri'd noun at oiuc- vitL' a sojourn. in |)o|)iilarity I (.'part II re from ly line in con- )lc sii},'j,a'stions ilTEHCflO » •;H ■v.'-V:',''" K.VSnVAKD IKDM I'ORJI.ANjP. JOSSIMLN' oil k'aviiig I'ortland tlio tide will allow us to ^I't a view at short range of that niagnill<ent old sentinel. White Head, that stands guard on the northeasterly end of C'ushing's Island ; if so, it is easy to understand why it filled the imagination of L(jngfellow's youth, insjjiring his pen as well as others. .\ momentary jpassage hclwcen the gray walls on the starl)oard and the green banks on the i)ort side of Cushing's and I'eak's Islands, and we are met l)y one of th(we visions of beauty that only the coast of Maine reveals, — * " Mays rcsi)lcn(leMt as the hcavLii, ^ Starred and gf nimtd hv thousand isles, (lire! thee; t'asco with its islets, Quoddy with its dimpled smiles," — melting into the golden distance of a late summer afternoon. Drake, in his " I'ine Tree Coast," uses the apt illustration of a ploughed field for this remarkable bay, the ocean having filled the fur- rows, and proiluced a cro]) of some two himdred and twenty or more isles, all trending like the furrows in a northeasterly direction. It would be madness to attempt to name all the islands in sight, the more prom- inent beyond Peak's Island !)eing Long, Creat Chebeague, Hope. Jewell's, and the two tiny specks of inner and outer (Ireen, near which latter rises a bare rock known by the euphonious title of " the hunk of l)ork." The commander of one of the steamers tells us of a gunner who, deprived of his boat by the rising tide, found very scant sustenance from this same jjorcine morsel during a long November day and night. Hy the way, how much the enjoyment of a sea trip is enhanced by a cheery and communicative captain, such, for instance, as will be found on the steamers of the International line ! »5 ill I tsg \i !i ! SI Iff :^- u \ :ii i> • Hut to renew our Icssuii in geography, after passing the (ireen Islands, Broad Sound opens on the left, and beyond, Merriconeague Sound with Harpswell's Neck on its left, IJailey's and storied Orr's on the right. This brings us to Half-Way Rock with its granite shaft and light, sup- posedly e(iuidistant from Portland and the Kennebec, init actually " half- way from nowhere," as the pilot i)uts it. Our course is now made east by north, and from Half-Way to Seguin Light is fifteen miles. Northward lay Harpswell's historic shores, and on the other hand, " Far out at sua. The ships that tlee Along the dim horizon line, Their sails nnfuKI Like cloth of gold, Transfigured l)y that light divine." After i)assing Cape Sinall, Seguin, which has been growing steadily, looms proudly before us, just a trifle to jjort, lifting its head two hundred feet in air, marking most appropriately the estuary of the Kennebec. The labyrinthine coast line stretches away into purple distance, flecked with brilliant touches of sunlight on the myriad summer houses that throng the shores of Popham. It is eiTiinently fitting that " M'nhiggin," as the old salts call it, bathed in sunset glory should mark the close of day. Historic, romantic, delicious old Monhegan, beloved by pirate, trader, fisherman, and artist as well, for wellnigh three centuries ! Its light guiding the storm-chased mariner, its tiny harbor, just inside Monanis, a refiige for many a belated fisherman. Monhegan is in actuality two islands, the little Monanis separated by a few rods only from the iiiain island ; its fishing settlement oflering a unique study for the socialist and a perfect " find " for the artist. It is almost an annoyance to be called to supper when absorbed in the glories of a sunset at sea, were it not for the whetted appetite that clamors, and the table which i)resents a menu that is a work of art in itself. Then satisfy the physical, that the a;sthetic sense may the more freely enjoy the feast oflered from the hurricane deck later. The long twilight of summer lingers caressingly along the horizon far astern, and " Looking across where the line of coast Stretches darkly, shrinking away from the sea, The lights spring out at its edge." All the tints of opal and pearl shell play in the steamer's seething »7 / I M I »WWIi !■ UWBBi'iMWW :1 wiikc ; Monlicgan's watchttil eye sparkles ami fleams tnnii its s<)nil)re throne t;ir to the northward; thirty miles away t'aniden's noble moun- tains may l)e descried ; Matiniciis, scarce distinj,'iiishal)le from a lesser star, beckons us on ; while out to sea the billows are crooniiij; their cease- less lullaby. We are off IVnobscot Hay, where the great river " comes to meet and mingle with his own bright bay." 'i'his is the land of the Norseman, the region of shadowy Norimibega, the favorite vantage ground of early discovery, of Jean I'armentier, Ramusio, Jean Alfonse, Roberval, and Chamiilain, the scene also of the romantic adventures of old liaron Castine, whose name still lives in the ipiaint town named for him on the Magadnce. 'i'his is a time for reveries, when sjjeech is useless and silence golden. Onward, still onward, "toward the sunrise," through the vast areas of time and space, and the long restful hours of a night at sea, past Mt. Desert's blue-black forms ami the stately beacons that guartl the i)ine- tree coast. At early morn one is awakened by call of the bell boy or the light of a])proaching ilay, and looking out finds far to the north the sharp blue line of the Eastern Maine hills. \Ve are off Machias, the l)old headlands of Cutler, rock-rilibetl, and defiant push boldly out against the brine. The peculiarly sharp jieak is Bool Head, and near at hand Eastern Head. Eastward, and still fixrther away, looms Grand Manan, crowned with the flaming tiara of a matchless sunrise. An hour or more of steaming in the ilelicious ozone and West Quoddy Light is saluted, its striped sides standing in sharp contrast against the green background of Quoddy Head ; a moment later our pilot directs, " North, northwest," and a sharp turn discloses the southern entrance to Quoddy Roads, and the fair village of Lubec, crowning a hiil, gleaming white in the sunlight. On the right at close range is Campobello, that coveted spot of many charms. At last we are at the " end of things," the extremity of Uncle Sam's domain. It is not diflicult to realize the pilot's skill as we note the tortuous course of the great steamer 'mid fish weirs, buoys, and jutting points, till at last the Eubec narrows with its ferocious currents is passed and the landing at Lubec reached. One recognizes on coming out into Friar Roads, that lie just before Lubec, what it is that attracts the hundreds, and is destined to call its thousands to Passamaquoddy or " Quoddy " Bay, as it is more commonly known. Its glistening waters are alive with schooners, trim yachts, busy ferry steamers, and countless small craft of every kind ; islands float in smiling content, revealing atween their evergreen summits distant glimp- ses of mountain, and reaches of Quoddy Bay. 19 » '^mt -aiiii^ijaA^ViririiiiiTi 'iwii- 1 lii Mi i:~ I i I I 1- KASirokl - KKSOUIS ON THK IIAV - MKK(HNIilN(i roWNS-CKANlt MANAN. ■J' is (.■viilcnt Iniiii iIk- inoiiicnt o( arrival at Eastport lliat it is an intcnsuly active and luistling town, a sort of ( ondcnsed Yankct' land, inti-nsified as an object lesson to our more easy-gonig Canadian neighbors. 'I'iiis ,1^ being the very centre of the great Kastern resorts, the ,1 ■ fotal point from whence tourists radiate to the score of hotels and small towns that cater to stmimer travel, it is (juite ai)propriate that it should receive first attention. I'lie first thing that imjjresses a stranger (via his nostrils) is the herring and sardine industries, whose i)acking houses line the water front, each with its fishing boats in attendance. To be literal, the output of smoked herring is two million boxes or more, and of canned sardines (so called), three hundred thousand cases, of which the International freights the major part. Wandering up from the landing tiirough the main street, the evidences of the fire of 1887 are omnipresent in the new structures bearing that date. 'I'he handsome new library building, erected by private be(|uest recently, heading the list, the substanial granite government building flanking the farther end. 'I'hroughout tlie town many (|uaint old homesteads remain to keep alive the memory of the past, which for its situation Eastport has little of importance to show. it is to the hill back of the town and back of Fort Sullivan, where now is placed the water tower, that the visitor's feet should turn, for it is just here, if we mistake not, that all the matcliless beauty of the Quoddy region unfolds itself as at no other point. The eager eye drinks in a mosaic of land and water in every direction. Northward into the heart of the St. Croix and the Chamcook Mountains ; easterly, upon the fair bosom of Quodily Bay, set with a hundred isles ; easterly still and southward across the noble mass of Campobello and old ocean ; still farther, to Grand Manan, that lifts its purple wall along the horizon, — ao (>rNiiiN(; at Eastpoit tliat town, a sort of an object lesson ji},'lil)ors. This stum resorts, the e to the score of nnier travel, it is ■ first attention, s) is the herring vater front, each utpiit of smoked lines (so called), nal freights the the main street, new structures reeled by private lite government .vn many (juaint : past, which for : Sullivan, where louid turn, for it s beauty of the eager eye drinks rthward into the isterly, upon the tjasterly still and M ocean ; still ; the horizon, — -. - ^j^i^Qunn L'q^TPoRT'.j iMiSia^mtmm^mifm 1 ! i ; I ti t cvcrywlu'iv, in .ill iliiri ti(iii>. lu'w in\>Urii^ nl' l.uul .iml w.iut fii.y.i^t' and I ,iiiii\,iti' the ItilmltUr. Tlii-. nulilr i'1h« I.iuiIm .ipi' i^ lrnl\ K.ist- |Miil'i niii-t jiiii i()ii> li'^.ii \ . "WiIMIk ri.iiiti'i- km« Imw Htriini;lv WoiUs tliv fiiriii oil liiiiii.iii tlll>ll^l1l ; I iiiii«r wliiil ^iinl iiiirpiiM' liiid 111' 'I'll (li.iw all l.iiii if^ 111 llii- -|nit." .\> any ono will not in.' >\'>\\ lo discuvcr, Ka>>i|)()rt is on an islaiul, MociM.' Wy naini. wliosc ( ()nnf<'ti(in with tlu' niainlanil is liy a bridge, spanninji tiu' narmw sliiji ot" watfi' Howinj,' rmni ('olistuok liay, whirl), with NW'st (Jiuiddy liay, ( om])lctL's tlu' cm iidin^,' nirdk'. Hourly sloanicr (onncMtiun with ( 'anil Id! ii'llo. i.ulicc, and Ndrth l.nlitc. half as olU'n with I'cnilirokc or Dcnnysv ilk', daily with St, Andrews, Koliliinston, Calais, Cirand Manan, andSt. John, — what nu-rc enticing list of pleasure trips ( onld one a>k? , CAMPOBELLO, being nearest, would naturally demand attention, its twin hotels of a-sthetic Imild, T'yn-V-foed and Ty'n-V Mai's ("The house in the wood" and "The house in the (lelil"), placed high on the hill, flanked by the magnificent Friar's Head, and the .piaint settlement of Welsh- pool. You will visit, of course, the old ( )wen Manor House, the home of the Admiral iMt/.william ( )wcn, to whom the island was grantetl in 1767, and whose burial by candle-light in tiie tiny family chapel was the fitting close to an eccentric life ; will then run over to the Friar's Head, and across, by one of the most romantic bits of woodsy road in all Canada, to the lovely Cove and Lake of C.len Severn, Harbor de Lute, and among the hundreil aljiine paths that cover like network the stupentl- ous Eastern Head. And then, our kindest service would be, to advise a sojourn at the model hotels mentioned, allowing you to wander, tancy free, in search of the numberless and ever-new retreats that cover this Eden of an islan<l. Campobello is some eight miles loiig by three in width, is iK)pulated by about twelve hundred souls, mostly fisher-folk, many of whom retain the (juaint flavor of their Scotch and \Velsh ancestors, and is owned princajially by an American stock company. Mrs. Kate Ciannett Wells has written an api)reciative little book on the island, and Arlcj Hales makes it the background for his story of " A Lad's Love." From its natural ramparts for-reaching and exhilarating views open , .-at : . . '^^^"'' . .: " • ^ ind w.itiT I'li^.i^i' ,i|ii' !•> truly K.inI- t is on an islaiul, i<l is !))• a hriilfif. Itsrook May, wliidi, ; ^irilli'. Ilimrly nil) l,iil)c( . liair as (Ircws, k(il)l)inst()n, L-ing list of pleasure its twin iu)tcls of 'I'lic iioiisc in tlic jn the hill, flanked •ttlLMuent of W'elsh- r House, the home land was granted in iiily chapel was the o the Friar's Head, voodsy road in all , Harbor de Lute, stwork the stupend- vould be, to advise t)U to wander, fancy reals that cover this les long by three in , mostly fisher-folk, Scotch and \Velsh an stock company, e little book on the s story of " A Lad's arating views open T up, to landward and seaward, upon Quoddy's dancing, merry waters, and St. Croix's sweeping course, while it would almost seem superfluous to sjjeak of its wonderfully tonic air. " Here as \vc mount and leave the coast below, Lake leads to lake, sea opens into sea, Great waters hidden in the land and linked Together in a somiding labyrinth." LUBEC. The same stanch little steamer that plies to Cam])ol)ello also touches at Lubec, where, as the reader will remember, the International steam- ers make a landing at their new pier. This quaint and altogether picturescjue village is also given up to fish and fishing, and smokes and boils and oils its herring that come up in silvery basketfuls from the fish- ing boats by her wharves right merrily. It is striking in perspective, it is quite fascinating at short range, and, with its original characters, would seem to be only waiting for the pen of Miss Jewett or Miss VVilkins. Its history is quickly told ; having been set ajjart from Eastport in 1811, its setdement dating from about 1772 to 1780, and augmented by accessions of citizens who objected to British rule, under which East- port chafed till 1817. There are two comfortable hotels in the town, and numerous private houses where summer guests are entertained. Four objective points in Quoddy Bay region give typical and entirely distinctive views. Of these, Lubec is one, from whose heights a less extensive but thoroughly satisfying view in its unity and arrangement is found. Looking northward, Eastport, with its huge water tower high above it, slopes gracefully to the bay; beyond it the islands, Deer, Indian, and Cherry, with the Canadian waters and mountains stretching flirther away. On the right, Campobello. On the left, Cobscook Bay leads the eye behind Ssw.ird Neck or North Lubec, and meanders for 24 ^Mn y:, merry waters, jeni supertlnoiis .*!Io also touches rnational steam- ami altogether mi smokes and from the fish- perspective, it laracters, would ss Wilkins. jm Eastport in augmented l)y er which East- s in the town, tertained. cal and entirely heights a less arrangement is ter tower high islands. Deer, lins stretching Cobscook Hay meanders for many a mile ami many a reach to the towns of Pembroke, Dennysville, and Whiting. Small craft can penetrate for eighteen miles inland, north, west, or south, among curious intricacies of coast line. One of the most interesting and instructive excursions from Lubec is by carriage to West Quoddy Light, the most eastern in the States, sur- rounded by magnificent coast scenery and surf effects. W'estward some eighteen miles lies Cutler, with its summer colony. Northward, by the bridge spanning a tiny inlet, or by the ferry-boats. North Lubec is reached, notably a summer camp-ground, and site of the Ne-mat-ta- no Hotel, the property of the New England Young Men's Christian Associations and North Lubec Land Improvement Company, — an ideal sjjot for its purpose, imder the fostering care of a Christian manage- ment. PEMBROKE, PERRY, DENNYSVILLE. On the mainland, north of Cobscook Bay, reached by its penetrating waters ami the small steamers that follow it as well as by road from East- port and the towns of the St. Croix River, lay the peaceful and contented villages above named ; the former being largest of the trio. It is here one should wander when desiring perfect quiet and immunity from social excitement. The delightful mingling of pastcral and maritime occupations, in their appropriate and natural settings furnishes a sufficient amusement for the idler, to which may be added the same host of attractions before mentioned that offer themselves. These towns are convenient to the beautiful roads that follow the St. Croix, or penetrate to the woodsy shored lakes, Meddybemps, Magur- rewok, Pennamaquan, and others of Indian tradition ; convenient also to the network of bays and creeks, through which one may float or sail with the favoring tides. Life among them is primitive and simple ; the cost of a summer outing, therefore, small. as ■■ i.»i.-lL »A.-^Jii.d^m.t^-..^« V, Ma.-aM.)u.^^f^^^ -^^-^ ^ ;i' H' ^RANdNANXN' ALkoss THK i;av-ci.uis ok manan- S A I. INK TVl'KS. IKK tinto a might)- fortress is Craiid Manan ! its inviilncraljle walls looming purple in the distance. A name to con- jure with, a spot fit for deeds of chivalry antl daring, a challenge to the painter's l)rush, an invitation to the naturalist, and to the worn and jaded body a haven of rest, home of the eagle and the gull, fog factory for all Fundy and Ivistern Maine, playground for nature's moods, unspoiled l)y the conventions of modern summer resorts, this remarkable island demands attention. Steamer " Flushing " lies at Kastport on arrival of anti connecting with the International steamers, and in a short hour and a half lands passengers at Flagg's Cove. The trip is sure to arouse the enthu- siasm of the most stolid, every mile of approach revealing fresh details of the stupendous cliffs that botmd its whole northern side. The gray sails of the fish- ing fleets stand forth in strong relief against its sombre mass, and great clouds of spotless gulls swirl and float above its inaccessible eyries. Perchance you may see the Indians who dwell on Manan, |)erforniing their ingenious feat of shooting porpoises from their birch canoes, as unconscious of danger as the gulls dancing on the wave near l)y ! 26 ii. tJf^^iUamtatUtiM N- OK MANAN- ortress is (Jrand 1)1l' walls hjoming A name to con- • deeds of chivalry e to the painter's the naturalist, and i body a haven of ■ and the gull, fog ind Kastern Maine. moods, imspoiled modern summer le island demands " lies at Eastport nnecting with the and in a short issengers at Flagg's arouse the enthu- lid, every mile of :sh details of the bound its whole ay sails of the fish- I in strong relief ,nills swirl and float e the Indians who shooting porpoises 5 the gulls dancing jsan 'iTm'.^-»:«i.- 1 -poUPojt Si« ^Ji.' A few little grt)Ups of silvery gray huts, built by daimtiess fishermen, maj- be seen clinging to the bits of pebbly slKJ'e that here anti there border some indenting cove, settlements full of picturesciueness, and — ancient and fish-like smells. Al)out midway of the north shore is Indian Head, the highest point on the island, and near it the curious little Dark Harljor, separated by a sand bar or peblily dike from tiie ocean, which rushes in through a narrow sluiceway, furnishing a natural traj) from which the fisiiermen take vast (juantities of herring. Money Cove, a little farther west, is another of the traditional haunts of Kidd ; poor Captain Kidd, he did not believe in |)Utting his wealth all in one bank ! On passing the fog station, wliich stands !;> ar a snug farm or two adjoining the jagged bulwarks of Northern Head, whose sliadow • '. .. -^ actually crosses the deck as we run close to shore, IJishoj) Rock stands forth prominently from the cliff, and just beyond lie the ugly reefs of Pemberlon Point, named after the noble vessel that was driven to its doom here , on a l)itter January night. A ' moment later and a great wall —- of vertical cliffs bursts on the astonished beholder ; these (the " Seven Days' Work" they are called) give the first real glimpse of Manan's strongest characteristics ; after them, the Swallow 'I ail Heatl, which we round on coming into harbor, seems quite insignificant. The impretentious hotel here offers comfortable entertainment, its walls hung with souvenirs of the many artists who have frequented tiie island for years past, its one-time mariner proprietor a mine of informa- tion and entertainment. It is not easy in a few lines to mention half the points of interest to be seen. Suffice it to say no one should fail to visit the stupendous basalt cliffs of Southern Head, which is reached by a three-hour sail or drive and a few minutes' walk. Better yet, follow the entire shore from Southern to Northern Head, with its constant surprises. The dense woodland landscapes in the interior of the island, over which glimpses of distant shore and water are caught, are stimulative and suggestive in the highest degree, and to the true nature lover will \no\c one of the strongest attractions. 27 ^. I ( »nc shoiikl also cultivate the lisiicniR'H. saline t\|.es„r yivat Kem.iiu- ness and (.li^inaiity, men wiiu have l.een attracted here partlv l.e( aiise ol tlK- freedom from competition, possii.ly l.y the romantic nature of the island itself. I'he liKhthouse-keepersof theislan.l are men whom one wishes to know, well informed, sagacious, full of sea yarns, and full of courtesy as well. The one at Swallow Tail would attract attention anvwhere for his splendid i.l,ysi,iue and military bearing. Horses are a rare beast on the island, and, as some one has noted, you will be known l.y the animal you drive, the horse serving as a letter of introduction wherever vou may go. Potatoes seem to be about the only vegetable tliat is reasonably successlul. which, with the varied species of fish, constitutes a novel and i.alatable staple on the bill of fare. The numerous smaller islan.ls King south and east have become noted as the resort of .Audubon, in iiis I'.ird- stuilies of North .America. \ I 29 i ^r* ^^*^-^ :-^^„,a^^ iAAi --■.■ili|.-Hifr.r^^^i.%t-:v-.^-^a^. , p^.^.-^„- rcFirt rrtlUffiTI WStsm THE ST. CROIX. ^^^^^ ri' rill. sr. ( koix to sr. aniirkws- Kor.iiiNvrDN, ( AI.AIS, ANII ST. MKI'HKN, ^^ f%. --J ^^ M ^ Vri H V fc J 1 ^ ^^>My^ ^JF* </v^ E have alivady foniid so imicli in this (lt.'lt.'(lal)lL' rugiun, it would seem that it must he wcHnigh exhausted. Far from it I St. Croix still remains ; rich in lore, richer still in (harm of landscape and water-scape, significant as the water boundary between two i^reat powers. At Eastport, again, one steps from the deck of one steamer to that of another, well known in Massachusetts waters, the " Rose Stamlish," of the Frontier Steamboat Company. The course lies north by west l)etween the Jiritish islands, Indian and Deer, on which is a consiilerable settlement of remnants of the Quotldy Indians, opposed by Kendall Head and Pleasant Point on our mainland. \ four-mile run brings us into the fair estuary of St. Croix, and still fairer (Juoildy Hay, the na/ Quoddy, sweeping twenty miles into the north, the river leading the eye even farther, to Oak Hay. .'Vgainst the bold mounds of the Chamcooks is faintly seen a spire or two, and on a hill still higher a castle-like building which grows in prominence and detail as we approach, until recognizable as a summer hotel of fine proportions and ample size. It is the AlgoiKpiin, and the picturesciue town lying at its feet, with its crumbling wharves and tiny lighthouse basking in the sunshine, is, as you will guess, * * ST. ANDREWS. * A sleepy old town it is, (juaint and self-satisfied, its streets laid out with distressing regularity, but dotted here and there with relics of the past, suggestive of colonial days and the Royalists who founded it. One would naturally expect much of interest, historically, in this little town. 30 mmm ■(iiiP^ »^;3ft-'^->?*f^,. ♦■ NSTilN, in this (Iflfctable must he \vcllnij,'ii !n)ix still remains ; 1 of lanilscapc and ' water l)()un<larv from the ileck of r, well known in rontier Steamboat he liritish islands, nt of remnants of Pleasant Point on air estuary of St. , sweeping twenty her, to Oak Hay. lintly seen a spire ng which grows in '.able as a summer ng at its feet, with lie sunshine, is, as s streets laid out with relics of the founded it. One in this little town. i, . T"^TJV • Joe s ri. So. JpbbinstonA P ZLj^.Robbinsron*"""'"^^^ ' II M\,»} if ^ ii^ffH0m*mmmmmmmim<m •m , / but will be disappointed. It was once quite a slii])ping port, but otiicr cities seem to have stolen its prestige awa\'. Its principal stock in trade at present is its marvellously pure and dry atmosphere, of which there is an inexhaustible supply of the jjurest and tlriest kind. Gen. Greely is (|Uoted as ample authority in this ccm- nection ; his reports showing that curiously enough, small areas, at the extreme southwestern and northeastern limits of our coimtry, possess the most jierfect climatic- conditions, a mean summer temperature of 6.S", and an atmosphere remarkably free from humidity. This is quite note- worthy, considering the close proximity of Grand Manan and its reputation. Another and eciually desirable article is its pictures(iue environment. — I'assamaquoddy, beautiful Chamcook Mountains, and no less beautiful Chamcook Lake, among the mountains and flowing into the bay by a short stream. It is characteristic of American enterprise that the St. Andrews Land Company should have selected this particular place for improvement, should have erected on one of the four hills mentioned previously as view points of this region the splendid hotel, known everywhere as " The Alg6n<iuin," a house of perfect appointments, and having that enviable reputation of st/cicss, five seasons of " ten strikes " as a hotel man expressed it ! Good roads reach inland, fine bathing near at hand, fresh and salt water recreations, mountain climbing, and e%'ery possible out-of-door sport are the fitting accompaniment of this ideal resort. " Immunity from hay fever " is the legend, par excellence, inscribed on its card ! From St. Andrews, running out under the striking headland of Joe's Point, another excellent observation point of the town, the steamer immediately enters St. Croix River proper, the little town of Robbinston on the opposite bank laying snugly and comfortably under the protect- ing shoulder of an evergreen ridge, which runs out and abruptly drops into the river just above. ROBBINSTON. Not a village of any great importance, nor with any especial historic significance that we could discover, but certainly a very attractive and typically American town, with a few of the omnipresent sardine factories, and a sort of hands-in-the-pockets air, that is very inviting to one who seeks to "loaf and invite his soul," Whitman would say. There is all the fishing one could ask for, of every kind, salt or fresh, with some of the 31 'I i i 5* .i. ! wn pn I !T» en m \Er, 'm I :4^ m-f-jk r-1-m-z ~^-^i most cxiiuisite drives along the river and inland to be founil anywhere in the region. An artist is naturally a little tastiflioiis in matters pictures! |ue, and from his point of view there is no jilace to compare with little Rohbinston from which to study the varying moods of the Chamcook range or the dreamy perspectives of the river. Certain it is, many have summered there, and a more enthusiastic lot of missionaries for it could scarce be found 1 Rohbinston may |)roperly claim as its own the intensely interesting annals belonging to this immediate vicinity, of which Doucet's or "Dochet's " Island, three miles above, is the i'/>ifi>mt\ It is just here that Acadia, by the hands of Champlain and the Sieur de Monts, began its history, when in 1604 they planted a colony and a garden, on this speck of dirt. In sjiite of Gen. Greely's asser- tions as to climate, the garden proved a failure, winter came, and with it suffering and absolute isolation from the land, so near at hand ; sickness and death did their work, and spring saw the remnants fleeing to Port Royal. Champlain's faithful pen picture did not pre- vent acontinuous bound- ary dispute, for not till 1 796 did a commission discover the " Isle of Champlain," the St. Croix of the discoverers, and the true boundary of Acadia. It is in- teresting, then, as we steam up river to look upon the little island mid-stream, with its history fresh in the mind, its sole resident, the lightkeei)er, in his white tower, with his cow, his garden (which yields), and the miniature forest at its edge. This may be a proper time to mention briefly a few of the names that will figure in our narrative, and serve to keep in mind in outline the later history of Acadia. Next, then, is Fort Royal, with La Tour's set- tlement at St. John across the bay, Fort Cumberland near Amherst, Windsor in mid Nova Scotia, and Louisburg in Cape Breton. Beyond Doucet's Island, the stupendous summit of Devil's Head, bristling with lance-like forests, exchanges frowns with Chamcook hills opposite, and marks with decision a sharp turn in the river, as well as the entrance of fair Oak Bay. It is the formation of the waters just i Zi K i i8 i«i *a^gaisr-r ». ii' virm -t itt Hsaa inf. named into the semblance of a cross that gave to the French a name for the river, 'rnrning the corner under the green-hlack head, the course changes to northwest, and the shores narrow very perceptibly. 'l"he lighthouses of Spruce and Nfark Points, set with their forest background, resemble playthings, and recall the " Noah's ark " period of our baby- hood I Uald Head, on the Canadian side, overlooks some ])retty farms and a tiny hamlet called '• 'The Ledge." A |)astoral and thrifty-looking landscape bortlers the stream as we api)roach Calais and St. .Stephen, where every suggestion is of lumber. luml)ering. and imnufactures, which will explain very adequately the existence of such a considerable city. ' m CALAIS. Ciood hotels, attractive streets, fine churches, and a gem of a library make Calais, with its activity and eight thousand residents, the most im- portant town on our eastern boundary, the " border city," if yon please, of the Pine Tree State. Its village green or common is one of the most charming we have ever seen, lined with conservative and comfortable- looking mansions of a good old age. Howells might find here a bit of his .\ltruria, for Calais and St. Stephen refused to ([uarrel during the international disputes of 1812, so closely are their social and commercial interests united. To be sure, a customs official is stationed at either end of the covered bridge between them, and sonwtimcs looks into your grip, but the many little smuggling incidents are regarded more a., a joke than an offence evidently ! As Calais is the head of navigation, so is it the beginning of a water-power on the St. Croix. At Milltown, just above, extensive lumber mills fill the air with the sound of buzzing saws, the savory odor of green sawdust, and turn out finished lumber by the million feet, the raw material coming from the Grand Lake region beyond Princeton, to which point extends a railway, and the unmeasured forests along the rivers tril)Utary to it and the St. Croix. There is still good fishing among these tributary waters of the Grand or " Schoodic " Lakes, the lower or " big " lake containing pickerel, which of course have driven out finer species, and the upper or Grand Lake and its stream, brook and lake trout and land-locked salmon. It is of the smaller lakes north- westerly that best results may be expected, for which Indian guides a plenty are available at Princeton. Edward A. Samuels may be quoted as having had " great fishing " in these waters. Aside from the lumber industry, quarrying is of some little import- 34 • ' -■ l'"rcncli a name tor ( k head, the course ,■ perceptibly. The r forest l)a(kgroiin(l. ])erio(l of our haby- .' pretty farms and a rs the stream as we sstion is of huiil)er. ery adequately the 1 a gem of a library idents, the most im- :ity," if you please, 1 is one of the most e and comfortable- it find here a bit of quarrel during the ial and commercial tioned at either end ooks into your grip, iiore a.i a joke than igation, so is it the :illto\vn, just above, f buzzing saws, the led lumber by the [^ake region bejond unmeasured forests There is still good ' Schoodic " Lakes, " course have driven 1 its stream, brook smaller lakes north- ch Indian guides a lels may be quoted some little import- ance, the red granite of Red Ileach, which we passed near Doucet's Island, anil of the St. (leorge quarries being quarried by companies located here. ST. STEPHEN. What is said of Calais is also ])ra( ticauy true of this border town of New linmswick, with the exception of its pojiulation, which is some three or lour thousand less. In addition it has a large cotton mill, and also railway connection with the outer world ; with St. John by the Shore line, with the vast areas of Northern Maine and New IWunswick and Quebec by the Canadian Pacific, St. .Andrews to the south, as well. Il would be a (juite uni)ar(lonal)le error to leave this corner of New llruns- wick without a glimpse of the wild beauties of LAKE UTOPIA AND FALLS OF ST. GEORGE, which lie some thirty miles eastwaril. This lake is especially rich in its color variety, the bold ledges of red granite throwing up huge towers from the forests, or reflecting themselves in the dancing waters below, proilucing effects that are uni(iue and striking in the extreme. The lake flows through a small outlet into the river Magaguadavic, near the station of same name on the New Brunswick Railway, and tUlwiu-liis into Passamatpioddy at St, CJeorge, rushing between narrow walls, forming a cascade of great splendor. The Magaguadavic, also reached by small steamers and boats from Eastport and vicinity, has been of late a favor- ite excursion of its denizens. For more than a century after the Doucet's Island incitlent this stream was accepted as the St. Croix, and christened such with the crucifix of the Jesuit explorers, until the discovery as mentioned by the boundary commission of conclusive evidence to the contrary. The pretty town of St. Cleorge, of some four thousand popu- lation, just here, is engaged in lumbering and tpiarrying, and proves a convenient stopping place for fishermen of Lake Utopia, where good trout fishing is assured. Returning again to our starting point at Eastport, let us continue onward again toward that Ultima Thule of our travels, "EASTWARD AGAIN." On steaming out from Eastport between East Quoddy or Head Harbor Light on one hand, and Deer Island on the other, one is intro- 35 '^-^.': ■■^'' f" «'4T«Y m (lured forinally to the Hay ot' Fiiiuly, that irri'itrcssiUlc luxly of water lliat Ih at OIK e the terror an<l ileliKlu of tlie lieliolder. Of course, every one who has Icmied his j^eograiihy lesson knows about tlie "tides of Kinidy," tl\at ( hnili thirty Icet more or less lwi( e a day nearly the year rounil, and create or wipe out whole river systems with each ebb and (low. Its impetuous currents ( rowd in by F-ast (Juoddy as ti)ounii hunj;ry for the land whose estuaries and streams it fills so nobly. The view from this point takes on an entirely new and ( haracteristic llavor ; ac ross the yellow-green and llashing expanse of the l»ayloom Grand Manan and the wooded, savage-looking islands, the "Wolves"; to landward. Passama- (|uoddy's gateway and hundred islets ; while New Hrunswick's shores lift their jagged and ruddy headlands against an everchanging and undulat- mg wall of mountain blue. It is just here that the key is found to the peculiar geological forma- tions of lower i\'ew Hrunswic k. From Chamcook Mountains at St. Andrews to a point beyond St. John extenil the rugged walls of what geologist^ assure us is a spur of the .Alleghany Mountains, of distinctly volcanic character, ctmiposed of trap rock, with feldspar, basalt, porphyry, greenstone trap and the like, whose jjractical value is demonstrated in the numerous granite and gypsum <|uarries. A glance at the map shows this same marked north- easterly trend in all the maritime ranges, — the <:liffs of Manan, North and South Mountains, and Cobequid's range in Nova Scotia, the grand hills of Cape Breton, and the Northern New Hrunswick mountains as well, that end so strikingly at Bay Chaleur. The variety of color along the entire shore of Fundy is particularly noticeable, al)ounding in deep reds contrasted with purplish grays, with here and there a splash of white, where the veins of gypsum crop out. After passing Point Lepreaux and its banded lighthouse, flanked by Mace's Bay and Dipper Harbor, comes the first intimation of our approach to St. John, when Partridge Island, which guards the harbor, stands out from the ha/y distance, almost immediately followed by the clustering houses of Carleton, with the ancient martello tower high above it, relieved against the sky ; the long gray wall of the breakwater extend- ing far out from the shore ; and finally, the picturesque beacon in mid- harbor gleaming white before the city walls. Every one must be struck by the extremely effective grouping of the city of St. John, its Gothic spires clustered on the hilltop, and solid commercial buildings sloping toward the water, where a perfect forest of shipping is gathered from every corner of the earth ; the mystery is, how so many vessels can be accommodated in so small a harbor. 37 J- 'I ' THE RIVER VOYAGE -FREnERICTON- (iRAND KAI.I.S- UPPER RIVER. F New Brunswick, the first city, of Canadian shipown- ing cities also the first, with a population of some fifty thousand, and a history dating from the early seventeenth century, St. John is not distinctively English or, intleed, Canadian, in its characteristics or outward ai)pearance. It is even denominated the American city, in contrast with Halifax, which is quite English ; but for all that, the visitor from " the States " finds much that i;. new to him in the minor details of life, perhaps nowhere so markedly as in the uni- versal courtesy of its people, of whatever class, and the good quality of the language one hears everywhere, not alone here, but throughout English- speaking Canada. There are a great number of hotels in St. John, — a fact which is true of nearly all Provincial cities. There are also among them some very comfortable ones. Your " Appleton " or "Ticknor ' will direct you, first of all, very properly, to see tho falls and graceful suspension bridge, which are the great " show pieces" of the town. St. John can boast of at least one novelty without duplicate, — the "reversible fall," as it has been happily called, — a phenomenon for which the Fundy tides are responsible. Novel, indeed, it is to behold a vast torrent of water flowing through a ' Canaiiian shipown- popiilation of some ting from the early is not distinctively n its characteristics en denominated the ite English ; l)iU for liat io new to him in :edly as in the uni- s good quality of the :hroughout English- a fact which is true )ng them some very u, first of all, very idge, which are the jast of at least one it has been happily es are responsible, r flowing through a narrow, rocky passage toward the sea ; halt an hour later a i)lacid stream upon which laden vessels come and go ; yet another half-hour tiie same turbulent waters again, but rushing in the opposite direction ! Wonder- fully fascinating is this tidal freak, as the writer can testify after having spent a half-day studying its moods and caprices. Here, in the winter of 1S93, was witnessed one of those tragedies more dramatic than fiction. The ferryman, who for years had safely piloted human freight, who half a score of times risked his own life to rescue othci,^ from this treacherous maelstrom, in sleet and storm himself was swept heljjlessly into eternity. From the banks of the river on the Carleton siile, near the bridge, and a hundred feet and more in air, is obtained a striking and effective view of the distant city, the scores of lumber mills and yards that line the river just here, and mid-stream the island where that plucky bit of femininity, Madame La Tour, held the fort of her lord against the assaulting forces of D'Aulnay. Those were stormy times, indeed ! when feudalism, transplanted to the wilds of the New World, mingled with the savage strife of the red man, St. John's architecture is well worthy of attention, notably the fine residential portion about King's Square, and the new banks of New Brunswick and Montreal, City Hall and Custom House, the latter, with fully a third of the city, built since the great fire of 1877. The English Church service is finely rendered in several churches, especially so at beautiful Trinity, while the chanting at the " Old Stone Church " at head of Germain Street is quite exceptional. The 39 •at'itdPtfTt' r '#^ many hills about the city afford fine vantage points for views. From Fort Howe on Portland Heights is altogether the most striking one, the harbor and city, the grand expanse of Fundy, as well as the charming landscape lying back of the ridge. From the ancient martello .ower in Carleton also a glorious view is unfolded of the bay, the coast east and west, as also the environs of St. John. The business interests centre around the shipping, as one might imagine ; lumber in vast quantities from the river country northward is exported, lime is also an important item when trade relations are favora- ble with the States. Naturally this is a trade centre for all Central and Southern New Brunswick, and the types of lumberman, Indian, farmer, or fisherman that one often meets are striking and picturesque to a degree. Of course no one would think of leaving St. John without first taking the charming steamer trip to Fredericton up the river, nor any less the trossach-like waters of Kennebecasis River. When one does leave, there is always the choice of following the Intercolonial Railway to the eastern Provinces, Prince Edward or Cape Breton Islands, or of crossing the bay to the land of Evangeline, Annapolis Valley, and Halifax by the Bay of Fundy Line. RIVER ST. JOHN. While very charming and soothing in its pastoral meanderings, it is a trifle far fetched to call this stream the "Rhine of America." To say that a river has an individuality and charm all its own is the greatest praise one can bestow. It seems that this can be said very truthfully, in that the St. John cannot be compared to any other. If the valley of the Annapolis is the "garden of Nova Scotia," then is this also the garden of New Brunswick, and a very large garden at that. 40 ssswf<n!W!Ksw«- ~«i^iR{-- ■■'r^mgsseftffimm^m^gsmmmmem^s^^smBsm^imsmma i for views. From ist striking one, the ?11 as the charming It martello .ower in the coast east and )ing, as one might )untry northward is eiations are favora- for ail Central and lan, Indian, farmer, iresque to a degree, without first taking ?r, nor any less the e does leave, there way to the eastern )r of crossing the ■lalifax by the Bay meanderings, it is merica." To say i^n is the greatest very truthfully, in f the valley of the also the garden of Leaving the quaint landing at Indiantown, just above the bridge and falls, the comfortable steamers of the Star Line push out and against a strong tide, under the towering cliffs that flank the narrow passage, past the gray lime-kilns and lumber mills that cling to their sides, sharply rounding a jutting ledge, then turning again till her course lies about northwest. Nature has been very accommodating to her dependents hereabouts, where the waste from the sawmill can be immediately utilized in heating the kiln, the kiln in turn receive its raw material from the gypsum cliffs overshadowing it, and immediately transfer the finished product to the hold of the schooner which lies alongside, and is swept out by the tide to an open sea and the ports of the world. Having shaped our course northwest, and left behind the narrow gateway to the Grand Bay, which opens here, and leads the delighted eye for ten miles over its smiling surface, to rolling hills and fair farms, which line the banks here on either side. On the immediate right- hand shore, standing defiantly at the entrance to Kennebecasis Bay, is Boar's Head, its bristly summit justifying ivs name. Geologists explain that the river in prehistoric times founa the sea by two channels, one through the South Bay over on our left, the other, via Kennebecasis' loveb' reach and the valley between St. John City and Portland's Heights. The last-mentioned bay, as described elsewhere, is in picturesque charms fully up to the promise it gives as seen from the steamer's deck. The river craft encountered on this tidal lake upon which we are sailing is entertaining and even amusing to a great degree, for it is not uncommon to meet or pass here a half-dozen or more schooners of varied model and rig, some in tow and some under sail ; old relics in the way of steamers wheezily tugging long rafts of logs from the upper river, with now and then a hay barge lazily sauntering down with the tide, and half a score of tugs and pleasure craft that are always in attendance upon such a nautical assembly as we have mentioned. The Star Line thoughtfully issues a very good outline map of the river from its mouth to Fredericton. With this in hand one can locate every detail of the picturesque trip. The names are more interesting and surprising than those of a directory. The every-day names of the farmers or early settlers are offset by the wild Indian nomenclature, furnishing such morsels for ihe tongue as Washademoak, Musquash, Nashwaak, Otnabog, and others. We find on our map as souvenirs of a former visit to Fredericton and the voyage thereto many shorthand notes and hieroglyphics which we venture to interpret for the reader. At the head of the Grand Bay is a most attractive little hotel and cluster of cottages, known as Belyea's, 41 miitimimmmtSmM iti a resort of many St. John people, and, we are told, a very comfortable nook for a summer rest. It is just here the river makes another turn and a great sweep directly northeast, revealing the "Long Reach," with its new variety of scene, bold hills and golden marshes alternatin;,'. The tiny white lighthouse at lielyea's places itself, with almost conscious effect, very sketchably in front of the noble " Devil's Back, ' though why the devil got his back up so high as four hunilred and fifty feet is not explained ! That dark person is resjionsible for some very striking scenic effects, here as elsewhere. The eight landings between Kelyea's and Sterret's are not all landings so it would ap|)ear, for the interesting method of leaving mails or passen- gers obviates that formality ; here, the signal from steamer calls from the shore a wherry or rowboat, which draws uj) by the slowing steamer, a folding pair of steps is dropped, the transfer is made, and we are on our way in a moment. This is only one of many primitive and quaint customs met with all the way of the journey. Cireenwich Hill or Pitts' Landing is another spot to lure a saunterer. Oak Point, with its "grassy island " floating on the full stream, is cjuite characteristic of the river. The " Mistake " is best explained by the pilot who has sailed three miles behind its marshy point only to retrace his course again. The glimpses both fore and aft, at this point, are es|>ecially pleasing, not to say beautiful. The course now changes to north, the river narrowing and growing more and more tortuous, threading its way among islands, and bouniled continuously by the most exquisite hill slopes, whose generous sides are spread with fertile fields of vari-colored produce, the fruit of the hajjpy farmers who are so fortunate as to possess them. The landscape is decidedly English in flavor, and i)erhaps justifies the enthusiastic native in his highly colored comparisons. Long Island, just above, is ty|)ical of all the islands in the river, a broad intervale, with here and there a gray barn for its crops, and many a graceful elm, so suggestive of our New England villages, bordered by luxurious growths of willow, birch, and alder, whose waving branches cast cool reflections below. This island marks the entrance to the Washa- ilemoak, a river that is more lake than river for thirty miles of its course ; a very " ducky " looking spot it is, which guess is well verified by the game bags that come out of it in the fall. After tying a few knots about the islands, the steamer touches at Gagetown, actually touches, and ties up at this lethargic spot, where there is " Nothing coining, nothing going, Locusts grating, one cock crowing, , Few things moving up or clown, All things drowsy — Drowsytown." 42 >i.- 1, a very comfortable makes another turn 'Long Reach," with es alternatin .5. Thie h ahiiost conscious 1 Back, ' though why and fifty feet is not .' very striking scenic > are not all landings ing mails or passen- steamer calls from e slowing steamer, a ;, and we are on our rimitive and quaint enwich Hill or Pitts' oint, with its "grassy teristic of the river, ho has sailed three course again. The ially pleasing, not to the river narrowing ; way among islands, ! hill slopes, whose olored produce, the possess them. The erhaps justifies the >ns. lands in the river, a its crops, and many dllages, bordered by vaving branches cast ance to the Washa- thirty miles of its juess is well verified . After tying a few Gagetown, actually re is % i J^^ ;^"i3''Jori]fJ. ?yrtr. "-vmmam>- Oppositf is (Irimross Island, the mouth of Grand Lake, which stretches away northward for forty miles, and the site of ancient Jemseg. Here, in 1640, the French pioneers built their fort, which the English, of course, captureil a little later, andtossed back again in 1670. Under Villel)on it became a consideraljle settlement, the capitrl, indeed, of Acadia ; a few irregular mounds, only, now remain to keej) alive its ancient name. The character of the land here is like all that lies above for thirty miles, — flat, productive, and rather uninteresting from a scenic point of view, after the variety and contrast of the lower river. Passing Sheflield, Maugerville, Oromocto, and Oromocto River, whose upper waters abound in trout, the lower in pickerel, the land of logs is reached, and " Glaziers," where rafts are composed from the great booms on every hand, and towed down stream. Here one sees the long- pointed bayous or "dug-outs," of the lumbermen, the raft huts and curious stern- wheelers of the upper river, and catches refreshing sniffs of the odor from new lumber, that leaves a narrow passage only for the steamer as it threads its way and brings into view the spires of lovely Fredericton. ■1. FREDERICTON. It is doubtful if in all the Provinces there is a more delightful town than Fredericton, — city, we should say. The impression first received is abundantly confirmed by closer acquaintance. Its streets are beautiftiUy laid out, shaded generously by the American elms that grow so prodi- gally all through the valley, its public, educational, and ecclesiastical buildings are numerous and especially handsome. Its hotels are well- nigh perfect ; and a charming environment ot natural beauty combined with numerous avenues of access and egress make it in all ways goodly to look upon. It is the centre of a vast farming country, the distributing point for great lumber tracts, the centre of numerous rail lines, a noted cotton manufacturing town, and the seat of Provincial government, as well as normal school, university, and militia. The social atmosphere is naturally of a high order, and a generally progressiva idea seems to pervade the residents. ** Points of especial note are the New Brunswick University, crowning the hill west of the town, and commanding a matchless panorama of river scenery for miles in three directions; the village of Gibson, a model manufacturing community, founded and supported by the sagacity 44 kf, which stretches ;nt Jemseg. Here. :h the P^nglish, of n in 1670. Under capital, indeed, of rj to keep alive its es above for thirty m a scenic point of Passing Sheffield, nose upper waters ogs is reached, and it booms on every )ng- pointed bayous and curious stern- snifis of the odor or the steamer as it 'elv F'redericton. lore delightful town lion first received is reets are beautifully hat grow so prodi- , and ecclesiastical Is hotels are well- al beauty combined in all ways goodly istributing point for ;s, a noted cotton jrnment, as well as osphere is naturally ;nis to pervade the niversity, crowning chless panorama of lage of Gibson, a ted by the sagacity of Alexander dibson ; the site of the ancient stockade of Villebon, dating back to 1692, and directly opposite the city ; and the < urious little settlement of Mulecile Indians at St. Mary's. The frequent reveilles and bugle calls from the barracks on the public sipwre give a touch of militarism that is (|uite in keei)ing with the (juaint surroundings. The beautiful little Anglican cathedral is a model of (;othi(; archi- tecture, antl every one expresses surprise at the abundance of tine build- ings generally. The piscatorially inclined will fnnl here a good outfitter and rod maker, and across the river the veteran canoe builder, Jim Paul, known through all the Province. The tourist here makes choice of returning to St. John by rail, of continuing on by the curious " stern-wheelers " (if it be high water) to Woodstock, of branching off by rail along the wilds of the Miramichi to Newcasde, there meeting the Intercolonial Line, or of continuing north by rail to Woodstock, the regions of wild Tobiipie, mentioned elsewhere, or the sublime scenery of Clrand Falls and the upper St. John. The scenery along the upper river is varied by many rugged jjeaks and wooded hills, attaining its greatest novelty at the mouth of the Pokiok River, the outlet of Lake St. George, where a wild cascade comes tearing through rocky walls for several hundred feet. At Canterbury is the portage to Chiputneticook lakes and the St. Croix, at Kent a portage to Miramichi's waters, and at Andover the headquarters for canoeists about to take the Tobique trip. GRAND FALLS. The concentration of grandeurs and picturesqueness is most em- phatically here, where all the pent-up aggregations of a thousand wild streams leap through strong walls to dash in a great cloud of spray on the bowlders below. It is a spectacle worthy of the noble river St. John, worthy of the journey hither to witness, worthy of a more facile pen than ours to describe. The fall is a perpendicular one of seventy-three feet, and is set in a landscape of peculiar effectiveness, dull rocks and deep evergreens everywhere making a contrast to its flashing lights. The gorge below, through which the river rushes in ceaseless turmoil, is marked by many curious evidences of the torrent's power, — the " Coffee Mill " beside the channel grinding eternally, the " Wells," worn drill-like into the ledge, and finally, the huge basin at the lower end receiving the troubled waters into its placid depths. The little village of Grand Falls is a study in itself; the quaint hotel, 45 wliic h. Ity tlic way, is coniroit.ililc if ynii i arc to tarry, the iimsy l>\it hniail strri't < DiiiU'ctinj,' railway and catarai t, anil a liL'tiTogcni-oiis |)()|i- iilition (if Imlian, I'lvm li. and ddiilitt'iil kinds, who (an turn their hands to several callinj^s. t'roni wood-i hopiiinu to ( anoeinj;. A two hours' ride by the Canadian I'acit'ic and Riviere dii Limp is reached, with thej,'reat reso'-tsof the St. Lawrence near at hand,.nid tiie inii(|ue antl pirtn!es(iiie lite of tlie iMench habitat in thi>-. hit of new l-'raiiie ; if desiralile. a thoroughly di'lij^htl'iil round tri|) to Momton or St. John can be made, alonj; the ^reat river of C'anaila and tliroiit,'h the heart of the ^reat fish- ing country of New IJrunswick. The reader may be reminded that abo\e and westward the waters of St. John reach their octojiusdike arms for two hundred miles and more, interlaiing with those of l'enol)scot, Kennei)ec, and the lakes of .Nfaiiii-'s wilderness; that not so very far away the head waters of famous Restigouche almost intermingle witii its own, and the Lake Madawaska emjities its full cii|) into the gathering currents. To Iiim who has tired of the unrealities of the urban life, these invitations of the woods and stream that speak on every hand come like a revelation of a purer life ; let him take to his bircii an<l grasp tiie yielding jjaddle. 46 ic prosy but ,'i'iK'cins |>o|)- II tlu'ir liands () lidiirs' ride vith the great 1 |)irtiirc'S(iiie (Ifsiral)lc'. a III l)f made, ic great tlsli- tlie waters of 's and more, .'s of >raiiie's < of famous Madawaska ilio has tired ; woods and a purer life ; THE Tolin^tUE-MIKAMUm- KKSTICdll UK AND JAKJlEr. KISII ANI> CAMK LAWS. "( )li, the I)iave fisher's life, 1 1 Is tliu liLsl i)f aiiv, 'T is full iif pleasure, void of stiifr, And 't is beloved of many ; Other joyes Are but toyes, duly this , Lawful is, For our skill Urceds no ill. Hut content and i)leasure." Walton. HK Hterature of the piscatorial art, from Walton down, is exceedingly good reading. Iviually true is it, tiiat the ways of the fisherman are " ways of jiieasantness, and all his jiatlis are ])eace." Pisces leads him through nature's choicest jiaths and byways, close to nature's heart. Tiie writer makes some huml)lj; preten- sions as a disciple of Walton, so it \%Qoii anion- that he speaks of some of the more nimous trout and salmon streams of New Hrunswick and Quebec, reached by the International Line and its connections. Of course it is well known that New Brunswick contains some of the finest fishing of Eastern America. Beginning with the St. John and tributaries, the Canadian Pacific Railway from St. John reaches the great bend of the river above (Irand 47 1 K.ill^ ,mil till' lu'iwurk '<( niliiilarics. tliat witli tlu'ir tiny lakc^ ilcs(ril)U ilili( ,iti' Ir.ii crii's oviT NortliiTii M.iiiu-, ami iiitiTiniiiKlc with llio lioad watiT^ of the i<fstig(>iul\L', Ncjiisimiit, Miraiiiirlii. ami others ot" iipiicr Nt'w Ilrtiiiswirk. Nearly ail of these small streams are full of trout, and ^'ive good returns to the rod that reaches them. The rejjions beyond these streams, and hut a few miles from the rail- way, .ire essentially an unexplored wilderness, full of large game, antl llic wildest jMissihle scenery. THE TOBIQUE River, penetrated lor fifteen miles by a branch railway, has certain ele- ments of the granil and pictiiresiiue not possessed by any other I'rovin- cial stream. It runs throiij;h a mountain group of astonishing grandeur, a portion or connection of the Alleghany system ; they seemingly assert their relationship by appearing in abru[)t and striking forms. 'I'he Mine Mountain range on the lower side attains an altitude of eighteen hundred feet. .Sixty miles from its con- tinence with the St. John, 'l'obi(lue '• forks " into four small streams. At this point is a huge salmon pool in w h i c h fifty-four l)eauties have been actually counted at one time. The right and left branches have good fish- ing, the latter more espe- cially in trout. Some twenty miles below Perth, at the little station of Kent, one can secure guides, and in fifteen miles of driving reach the tributaries of the Miramichi, where some of the best salmon fishing of the Province may be enjoyed. The Southwest, Northwest, Little Southwest, and Savogle branches are all good. The fish are not large but exceedingly gamy. These streams are said, by Mr. Philip Cox of Newcastle, N. B.,to be early, fish entering them last of May and continuing till late Septem- ber. Eighteen thousand seven hundred salmon were taken from these streams in one year, and that within five years. Fishing privileges on these streams are mostly held by the owners of the lands. 'I'he Nash- 48 ,L's (Icsrril)e til tlu' Ihm(I .•r^ (if \\\)\)vr )f trout, and om till' rail- IIK-, ami the certain do- her I'rovin- ig grandeur, iunj,'ly assert , 'I'he llhie )!! the lower altitude ot" 1 feet. om its ron- ■ St. John, " into four Vt this i)oint lon pool in lur Ijeauties illy counted le right and e good fish- more espe- f Kent, one tril)utari(.'s of he Province thwest, and exceedingly tie, N. B.,to late Septem- 1 from these privileges on 'I'he Nash- "p" ^/////-'^ i^/V.y/////. Mt waak River, entering St. John just above Fredericton, contains some fish, hut is scarcely to be ratetl as a first-class stream, although any of its small tributaries are good trout waters. Coming down to civilization, many small streams west of St. John, along the Shore Line, are well stocked with trout running up to four and \]vii poimds weight. The same may be said of the brooks entering Kennebccasis Bay, easterly from St. John. Two streams, the Upper .Salmon and Big Salmon, on the Fundy shore between St. John and ^[oncton, furnish moderately good salmon fishing, considering their nearness to large cities. MIRAMICHI. Following the Intercolonial Railway, which is the great /is/i line of Canada, the next river of importance is the famous Miramichi, which is crossed at Newcastle. This remarkable stream is said to have over a hundred tributaries, which would certainly seem reasonable on studying its appearance on the map. 'I'his river lias l)een a great salmon water in its day, and is still so, though laws for its protection imtil re- cently have been poorly enforced. The govern- ment is doing much toward restocking it, and it is possible to make it what it once was in course of time. At Red Bank, less than twelve miles from Newcastle, and at Big Hole and Dennis's pools, which are free fishing, there is fine sport, grilse may be taken in almost any of the smaller tributaries, and sea trout are plenty in most of the streams entering Miramichi or Kouchibouguac Bays, east of Newcastle. Shipping can penetrate nearly fifty miles inland, by the Miramichi, and c inoes for two hundred or more. -.-upj^Soii*^--, ■• CHALEURS BAY AND JACQUET RIVER. Following the Intercolonial through fifty miles of uninteresting coun- try to Hathurst, we are introduced to the Bales de Chaleurs, that magnifi- cent arm of the ocean around whi(i-i cling so many legends and supei- 50 ntaiiis some lOugh any of of St. Johr, ; up to four oks entering , the Upper t. John and lering their t Jish Zinc of :hi, which is have over a on studying lice on tiie i river lias eat sahiion day, and is igh laws for 3n initil re- been poorly rhe govern- loing much stocking it, possible to hat it once -se of time. It Hig Hole :, grilse may It are plenty c Bays, east land, by the ER. esting coun- liat magnili- anil siipei- stitions. I'.athurst itself is a most inviting looking town, and has one hotel, at least, that may well claim to be a summer resort, ha\ing a charming situation on the very edge of the bay. The Ncpisiguit River finds the sea here, another good salmon stream, but better salt-water trouting, its estuary alive with them early in the season. .About the middle of May great numbers are taken, weighing from six pounds downward. This is true of the Tabucintac and Tracadie Rivers, a few miles south. But for sport with the gun commend me to this place indeed ! for did not the writer see the harbor black with geese, and the delicious blue-wingetl duck, one stinging October morning? American sportsmen come here for moose and caribou, as well as the smaller game. The Jar([uet River, at station of that name, is just above Hathurst, ranks as a wonderfully good sea-trout stream, and furnishes very good small salmon or grilse fishing. For pure gaminess, the sea-trout, when caught with the fly in these rapid waters, is closely akin to the salmon, showing splendid fighting (I'lalities and immense activity. The Millers at Sunnyside are good guides and canoeists, and will mdicate to the sportsman such holes as are free on the river, from Big Hole Brook down the twelve miles to Barclay's, where is foimd a cozv seashore hotel. The scenery along this stream is wild and romantic. Charlo River, a few miles ferther north, is another sea-trout and brook-trout stream, the fcjrmer of five-pound weight antl under, the latter from four pounds down to one-half pound. In fact, nearly any of the small rivers flowing into Bay of Chaleurs are good fishing from May until September. DALHOUSIE. .A short spui of the railway at Dalhousie Junction leads to the great watering place, 1 )alhousie, and the large siunmer hotel. Inch Arran. Fine bathing is enjoyed here, magnificent views across to the (,)ue'\.c shore, the glorious mountains of Bonaventure, and out over the hn^ niful Chaleurs (that bewitching expanse) the towering cliffs of Tracadiegash at (Jaspt^. Steamer trips are made to the bit of France out yonder, where all the quaint customs and dress of the Breton fishermen are retained, to a large degree. The Indian name for this bay is Ecketuam Xeniaache, meaning " a sea of fish " ; exceedingly ai)roi)os it is, too. Dalhousie is practically at the mouth or estuary of the famed Restigouche. At Campbellton, a kw miles above, and, in fact, all the way along the rail route is ha<l an inspir- 51 f uv view of ihc waters, an almost i)riineval mountain forest Iving hevond, the little settlement of Indian Point sleeping at their feet, near the historic ruins of i'etite Rochelle. The Intercolonial have chosen this view, (jiiite wisely, as tlie subject for a picture, whose reproduction has recently been accomplished. The same good taste selected the (juite ideal " meeting of the waters ' just above for a similar jjurjiose. I THE RESTIGOUCHE. ^Ve could scarcely do better than to take bodily Mr. Kilby Reynolds's descriptioriof this king of salmon streams and reprint it here, containing, as it does, so much of fact and suggestion ; we shall beg his in lulgence for a little " cribbing." Briefly stated, this river is two hundred miles long, draining with its tnl)utaries more than two thousand square miles, a land of mountain and vale, ])rimeval forest and smiling meadow ; flowing from silent spring lakes and leaping cascades, jjursuing a tortuous course, full of " runs " and torrents, to wander with silent content out into the "reen leagues of Chaleur. Its swift currents are lashed by a tliousand tiiousand leaping trout, its silvery bed mottled by the silent shadows of lusty salmon. There are many conflicting interpretations of this Indian name, one with imaginative taste making it " Five-fingered River," approi)riately ; another, quite jjositively, quoting ol 1 missionary chronicles, " River of the Long War." Whatever it means, it is a noble streams, and the ecstasy of a true sportsman. Regarding its fishing, nearly all the best pools are held by lessees, l)rinci]>ally the Restigouche Salmon Club and a few other American gentlemen. The river is not leased above Quatawamkedgwick, as these upper waters are not especially good fisliing. Proper letters of introduc- tion will secure the privilege of casting on most any of the large pools. Salmon of fifty pounds weight are often taken, the average usually run- ning from twenty-two to twenty-four pounds. In the numerous lakes near Campbellton " plain fishing" may be had any time, trout of a half- pound to four pounds l)eing abundant. Large and small game for the gunner are everywhere hereabouts, l)oth lond and water. From Metapedia to Newjiort on the north shore of the bay are a half-dozen superb salmon streams, the Grand Cascapedia being the best, yielding fish u]> to fifty-six pounds ; and farther over, the York near Gaspe. whose fish run from fifteen to forty-five pounds weight. Splendid 52 I ying licyond, r tlie liisUnic s the sul)jc('t lislie<l. 'Ilic waters ■' just )y Reynolds's ;, containing. is iivluigencc indred miles |iiare miles, a low ; flowing tuous course, out into the y a thousand It shadows of in name, one pi)roi)riately ; s, " River of ims, and the Id by lessees, er American v'ick, as these i of introduc- e large pools. ; usually run- merous lakes out of a half- game for the ;he bay are a ;ing the best, le York near It. Splendid r trotit fishing prevails in tliL- streams entering the south shore of St. I,awrence Kiver, the St. .Anne's ranks iiigh as a salmon stream also. .\t C'acoiina is the great and popular resort of St. J.a\vren<e Hall. perha])s the most famous watering place i'l Canada, with its splendid beaches, noble St. Lawrence panorama, and pure bracing air. M Riviere (hi Lou]), near by, steamers of the Saguenay and St. Lawrence River lines touch, afl'ording another n'rc excursion uj) either of these famed waters, and even to the wilds of Lake St. John in the far nortli. Here also is connection made with the Canadian Pacific for Crand Kails and other jioints of interest along the river and to the city of St. John, or back to St. Andrews and St. S'.ei)hen mentioned heretofore. Some forty-five miles or more eastward from Riviere dii Lou|) and two or three miles from St. Fabicn station is agrouj) of lakelets, contain- ing (juantities of trout which are said to accept bait or fly from early June till late August, and at the next station is Hie, -'little Hie." the acme of all an artist t)r wonder seeker could desire, with its great cliffs, ]>icturesque islands, antl entrancing vistas of St. Lawrence scenerv. 54 hoR' of St. 11 also. irncL- Hall. ts splendid .\t RivicTf River lines ned waters. I ere alsi) is i and other or back to i Lou]) and ts, contain- 1 early June he at me of |>i(tinvs(iiie FISH AND GAME LAWS. Close season, (Juehec, spi'c kled trout, October i to |)ccenil)er ,^i ; salmon, .\iigiist 15 to l'Vl)riiary 1 ; New Itrunswick, s|)eckled trout. September 15 to May i ; salmon, August 15 to February i. In New Brunswick no license is re(iuired of non-residents ; but in (Quebec this is required, and can be obtained of the fish commissioner. The regions about the liead waters of tiie streams we have mentioned, as also the forests of Cumberland, Colchester. Halifax, and Ciuysborough. Nova .Scotia, or Victoria and Inverness in i'ix\)c iireton,are noted moose and caribou grounds, and with i)roper guides will not disappoint tlie gunner. The close season on these is, Nova Scotia, Febniary i to Sep- temlier 15 ; New Brunswick, February 15 to August ,^i, on deer as well ; in (^)iiebec, February i to Sejjtember i, and of deer, January i to October i. No one jjerson is allowed to take more than two moose and four caribou in any one year or season. The flesh is to be carried out of the woods within ten days after killing, and game killed during the latter part of January shall be carried out during the first five days of February. The penalty for the violation of these provisions is from 530 to $50, and a fine of $25 is imposed for hunting with dogs. Wood- cock must not be killed before sunrise or after simset. Blue-winged duck must not be taken between the first days of April and August. The annual licenses for non-residents expire on the ist of .August. They cost $^0 each. There are, also, other details regarding rpiantity, manner of killing, dressing, etc., which the interested can find from the Intercolonial and Windsor and Annapolis Railway guides, or the government i)ublications. New Brunswick is doing much of late to enforce her laws on seining and spearing, as well as restocking her streams, but Nova Scotia needs a vigorous stirring up on this question. At present there are in the latter Province but one or two really good salmon streams, while there are very many good trout and sea-trout streams along her coast line. I ! i 55 EASTWARD AGAIN I laving dc'cidcd uin>ii the "all rail" imitc to reach the far hlast ul' (iiir amic ipatioiis, the \\i\c station ot" the Intercolonial Railway of Canada will 1)0 our startinj; point and may lie accejjted as im indication of the proj^ressive niana},'e!uent of " the people's own " line. This is our intro- diK tion to Canadian railways; and if anyone has hail doul)ts as to the conilort or s])ee<l of sue h service, or the feasihilily of gosernnient nian- aj^enient, let them he dispelled forthwith. :X: KENNEBECASIS. '{"he track follows the supposed former bed of the St. Jolin for two or three miles, when it skirts the shores of lovely Kennehecasis. There is somethint{ bewitching about this name, and the waters them- selves are none the less so, retaining as they do the wiklness of their primitive state to a great degree. The stations, like the scenery, are suggestive of the Scotch Highlands, for there is Torryburn and Rothesay, and a few miles south the fair waters of Loch l.omond. For upwards of twenty miles liie rail clings closely to the shore of KeiMiebecasis, the simnner homes of St. John's best i)eople lining the route almost continuously. .\t Rothesay is the Rothesay Hall, a very comfortable summer hotel, and the best point from which to enjoy or explore the bay and triljutaries. Nearly o])posite, across the water, lies the charming village of Clifton, in every way fitteil to the lovely setting of landscajjc provided for it. Beyond Hampton the bay narrows to a stream, and the stream, meandering among lovely meadows and confining hills, is in turn lost in little brooks that here and there send out a gleam of silver, then follow a few miles of hojjelessly barren and unattractive country, redeemed later by the quaint French settlements that line the Anagance River, leaving their impress on nomenclature as well as landscape. Very cm-ious and entertaining is the study of the time tables along these Canadian railways. Indian, French, and Scotch names blend in a gooil-natured medley, and indicate the character of the early settlers, if notiiing more. In many instances the result is a blending of French- Indian, as in Feticodiac or Petitcodiac, It is also very interesting to r.j*e how the early settlers have influenced the contours and general aspect of the country they have settled ; this is most notably true in S6 (^(iiilici ;m(l [i.irls oi' I'.MstiTH Nova Scnti.i .md ('.i|if I'.ri'toii, wlxiv primitive ( omlitioiis |iivv.iil to an iiiiiiMial (k'uri'f. This little Aiiagaiu c River is tyiii( al of nearly all streams enlerinn tlie Hay of Finidy, in that it exists, and then a^ain does not, it may lie full and ovcrllowing with a tt)o generous tide at one hour, and a very few hours later a muddy pish in the landscaii.-. its sides reeking' with ^'listen- ing slime. We must coiitess to a strange t'as<i nation in these tidal antiis, a fascination not li'ssened li\ a several weeks' intimai v. MONCTON. Su( h |ii( lures(|ue names as I'lumesweep, I'enolisiiui''. ami Anaganc e greet the ears and lead to Salisbury, where detours can be made to the famous tlshing grounds of Toilet or ("anaan Rivers, and on to the great railway town of New llrunswick, the < entre of the Intercolonial system of railways, and a thriving progressive city of more than ten thousand souls. It may not be considered a compliment by a .Monctonian, but to an American the city is perhaps more like those of his own country than almost any he will find in Canada. Its rapid growth in a few years, from a provincial hamlet to the hustling city of the jiresent time, is also suggestive of the .\nierican idea. The fine and imposing office bnililing of the Intercolonial is at the left of the station on entering from the west. The great sjiectacle of Monkton is its "bore," a most astonishing effect of the I'undy tides, which come tearing uj) the Fetitcodiac River bed in an impetuous wall of water from four to eight feet in height ; this is truly worthy of a stop for the express purpose of witnessing, and adds one more to the already numerous phenomena of Fundy. Moncton is also the great distributing point for tourists, northward, eastward, and southwaril : northward to the great fishing streams, the Bay of Chaleur, the St. Lawrence and Quebec, which have been mentioned elsewhere ; eastward to the I'rince Kdward Island ; south- ward to Nova Scotia and the noble Island of Cape Breton. We shall endeavor to suggest briefly to the reader a few of the allurements of all the latter sections in the following pages. 57 ih ■ijti^^'\ "' » , . I. rillO • (.AKDl'.N 01' CANADA' -MMMKUMPi; - ( HAKIOlTKroWN-Kl'Sl U()-M'()KTS- KISII- IN(;-Kl'UAI. I'VI'KS-I'HK KI-.Tl'KN \\V. Iiitcrcolonial Riiilway carries the traveller Uvelve or tiiirteen miles eastward to the landing of the I'rince I'ldward Island Navigation Company, at Point du Chene, where coimnodions new steamers cross the Straits of Northumlierland. \Ve pass on ;he way tlie attractive town of Shediac, where bathing can actually be enjoyed in mikl waters, and oysters of most lielicate (juality served galore in every style. l'"rom Point dn Chene to Snmmerside it is thirty-five niiles of delightful sailing, and it is hard to imagine the nearly insuperable barrier that separates these two points in winter, in the form of ice-floes that shut off communi- cation almost completely. At times the only means of conveyance is by open boats from Cape Tormentine, N. P., to Cape Traverse on the island, which are pushed through or dragged over the floating ice cakes at great peril. It is not unnatural, then, that the Island Province siiould have its separate existence and legislature, the S8 ■i ' ■ ' i \ . 1 % \ ■ ii .7 r V IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1^ ■so 1^ ii^ bs Ijtt 12.2 I.I 1 '-^ II-'-* 1.25 PhotDgraphic Sciences Coiporalion 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 m CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHIVI/ICIVIH Collection de microfiches. JR-- Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques I <!tt\WWi\nf tc \Vriiwnrari smallest of the confederation. This tight little island, liie "Carden of Canada " it is called, is thirty-four miles liy one hundred ;\nd fifty, and it would seem that not a foot of its area was un]>rodu(tive, for it has no lofty hills, no rocks, and little forest, with a rich red loam that resjionds generously to the hand of the c ultivator. It is evident why the natives should he dubbed " Redfeet." but not as explainable that New-Brnnswickers are called " I'.uckwheats." or Nova-Scotians " Bluenoses.' but they have all ai < epled their nicknames philosophically as becomes the true Canadian. 'l"he island has evidently been appreciated from the fust, for it has suffered an almost ceaseless disjnite over the land ([uestion for nearly a century. Discovered by Cabot, who named it St. John, the English ftxiling to take possession, it was claimed by the l-Yench in 1523, who established fisheries. The treaty of I'oiUainebleau gave the island to (ireat l>ritain, who gave it its jjiesent name. 'I'he two millions or more acres were divitled into sixty-six lots and awarded to as m.ui)- grantees ; the usual difficulties between a local government and a king's governor followed, resulting in a drawn battle. 'J'he jjurchase by colonial govern- ment and redistribution of lands under dispute only partially solved the ])rol)lem. which now seems decided l)y the conditions required since the island joined the confederation. .Since the union with the Provinces in 1873, and the building of a railroad through the island, prosperity seems to have grown ai)ace. Of course, agriculture is the one great industry, its products exi)orted to the amount of over a million dollars ; its fisheries next, with an export of nearly a half-million dollars value. A stay of however short duration reveals the (iict that the " Redfeet " have garden i)rcHlucts in quantity and quality unexcelled anywhere. Oysters, also, of a peculiarly delicate flavor, are raked from the shores of many bays, having a reputation all over Canada. ' , SUMMERSIDE. As the steamer approaches the island, the first land sighted is the headland of Cai)e Egmont, in the far north, after wliich the course leads into Bedeque Bay and the busy shipbuilding town of Summerside. In this harbor lies a picturescjue little island at the mouth of the Dunk River, which has been for several years ([uite a resort, with its hotel and woodsy roads. Prince Edward Island is but three miles wide just here, the bay of Richmond penetrating to that point on the other side. A little trip by rail to Tignish will reveal the quaint settlements inland and alongshore of Scotch and Irish origin, and the pastoral beauties so char- acteristic of the whole island. 59 m ' CHARLOTTETOWN is tlif important city of the island, is attractively anil generously laid out, and has a iioimlation approaching; twelve thousand. Its sipiare full of P>5T«R,rtl.<StlMt.' - P.L.I.sl.flri% flowering plants and well-arranged walks is surrounded by substantial, not to say hanilsome buildings, tiiat might do honor to a more important city. \\'ith all of its local attractions, Charlottetown offers a series of delightful land and water excursions and a host of fishing waters that are truly remarkable. Steamers run three times a week to Orwell, on the eastern shore of Hillsboro' Bay, twice weekly to West River, a goo<l do y laid out. uc full of J y^: >•■ 4. Ik. substantial, ; important a series of rt'aters that Orwell, on ver, a good ii If iiiwriifiumi iii]i!inimit»M sea-trout fisliing water, and nearly every day to Rocky Point. All ol these trips reveal singular beauty of land and water-scajie. The hills, though not high or abrupt, arc gently undulating, and fresh with the colors of thrifty farm jiroduction, slope gently to the shores, where often- times the eye is eaught by glorious i)al(hes of the bright orange and red of the red sandstone, ami rises abruptly in jjlaces to a height of fifty or seventy-five feet. C'harlottetown's i)osition at the head of a great bay ami at the junc lion of three considerable rivers gives it a great advantage as a reiort, and its hotels in two or three instances are such as to encourage a jirotracted stay. RUSTICO, a town on the north shore, is a most delightful little resort, with good l)athing and boating, and if jiossible better fishing along the Hunter River. The eastern section from Douglas to Souris is composed largely of (".aelic settlements, where the names, the customs, and all the little details in life are thoroughly iirimitive and enjoyable. At St. Peter's some good salmon or sea-trout fishing may be enjoyetl,and in f;ict nearly all the rivers along the coast line are noted for their good fishing. The hospitality of the " Redfoot " is proverbial. .\ journey across country on foot, or a i)addle up any of the numerous canoeable streams, with rod or gun, will bring one in touch with the warm hearts and sim- ple manners of the Scotch settlers, as well as the haunts of feathered game that inh.abit the island generally. The western end of the island is the favored locality for the gunner, Cascumpeque Harl)or in particular should be mentioned. 'I'he possibilities for a roundabout route, taking in other attractions upon the return, are great. For one may, instead of retracing the route via Summerside and Point du Chene, leave the island at Charlottetown, crossing by steamer to Pictou on the Nova Scotia shore of the mainland. We are now upon the true peninsula of Nova Scotia, in reaching which, without the tour of Prince Edward Island, the route is from Moncton — the junction point to which we first came from St. John — by rail of the Intercolonial through Painsec Junction, where the detour was made to Point du Chene, the point of embarkation for the island. 'J'ruro is the junction point for Halifax, needless to name as the metropolis of Nova Scotia. Here the main line of the railway tips sharply down to the Atlantic, while the Pictou branch turns in the opi)o- site direction to find us just landed from the Prince Edward Island boat, or steaming down over the intervening eleven miles from Pictou Wharf to meet the train from Moncton, and through Moncton, St. John, at New ("ilasgow. 61 ■V siavtpii'Jrtitt**^ ■ '.J i^^mmMm^ SOMK. TOWNS KN KOl'TK — IllsH )KK CKOUNUS — I'HK KKIilON OK MINKS -M KM r OK CANSO. To reacli Nova Scutiii and Ca])e Breton l)y rail one leaves Moncton by the Intercolonial, passes through I'ainsec Junction, and then is carried with a swirl southward along the Memranicook and out on the great marshes of the same name. It is not too much to declare this marsh land the most impressive on Canadian territory, if not on the continent. Near Memranicook station and frou) tiience to Dorchester it reaches its full grandeur, the broad antl simple planes, broken here and there by the tidal river, or the clustering haystacks, and beyond the (|uite European stctlement of St. Joseph's College, on a low hill dominating the picture. At Dorchester, Shei)ody 15ay is encountered, the upper extremity of Chignecto Channel, an arm of Fundy. It is here antl also at Amherst, a few miles farther beyond, that the tides ])ile themselves to such tre- mendous heights, sixty feet being the maximum ; here also the Petitcodiac and Memranicook waters meet. I )orchester is an attractive old town, is possessed of much wealtii and stately homes, but at present seems to be taking a somewhat lengthy na]) ; this is rather pleasing than otherwise, however, to a tourist. Sackville possesses what is lacking in Dorchester, — much push and activity, less attractiveness and (luaintness; shipbuild- ing is the all-absorbing occupation, the ring of the mallet re-echoing from the hillsides all along the north shore of Cumberland Basin, which lies to the southward. From Sackville a branch railway runs across the fertile country of Westmoreland County to Cape Tourmentine, on the Northumberland Strait, the winter port of Prince Edward Island boats. From Sackville, also, the train glides out on the great marshes of Tantramar, the Tinta- manc of the Frencli, -ignifying " a hubbub," a name well illustrated at the incoming or outgoing of the tide. This vast area is reclaimed by dikes, anil at the head of the marsh is one of the greatest plover grounds in Canada. 6a J 3 J 'I'liis ii'j^ioii is liistoiic j;i(iuii(l, the si I'lu- of tl\<)se stirring' cxcnts so fascinatingly iiictunil l)y I'aiknian. '\'Uv littli- Missiguasli Rivt-r just lii'y(in<l AuIk station was made liy tlic I'riMK h, (he dividing line lii'twcen tliL'ir territory and tliat of tin- llnglisli, planting old I'ort licaiiscjoiir, now Fort ('nnil)i'rland, just lurf to dctVnd their claim. A little l)elow are the remains of the opposing Fort Lawrence, hack of which stood the Acadian settlement of Jiiitii/'iissiii. 'I'he tin\ stream still serves as the hounilary of two provinces, and as we cross it we enter the land of the " Hluunose," the storied soil of Acadia, and shortly after jiuU up at Amherst station. .Amherst, aside from rich agricultural and mining interests, is noticeable as the western terminal of the great Chigneito Marine Railway that was to he, and whose interrupted works are i)asse(l a mile or two before entering the town. From here also runs a funny little mining railway to the Joggins, on Cumberland Flasin, the same of Joggins raft fame, and even more notable to geologists for its rich fossil remains along the cliffs that line the shore. Evidences of coal mining are frequent about here, for this is the renowned Cumberland coal district, one of the richest among Nova Scotia's rich mining jjossessions. Of the nearly two million tons of coal mineil annually in Nova Scotia, these mines contribute some half million, or about one-fourth. Along the line, at numerous points, spurs of rail- way runoff to mines in either direction ; while at Sjjring Hill Junction, the Cumberland Railway runs across to Parrsborough and the Hasin of Minas, into certainly one of the most romantic bits of country in all the i'rovinces, indeed, we should name it among four or five sections as espeenally worthy the traveller's attention. A further description of Minas .vill be found, under the head of Noi'a Sco/ia, elsewhere. At Oxford Junction again, another branch railway of the Intercolonial runs out over the rich country of 'latamagouche and I'ictou, returning to the main line at New Glasgow. From Wentworth the train begins a long climb of several miles up the slope of the Cobequid Mountains, that line the northern shore of the picturesciue bay of the same name. The outlook, which has been monotonous and limited, now opens into a landscape of irresistible beauty ; one of (iniet pastoral charm, as seen from a high mountain ; stretching away for miles toward the strait, reach- ing its climax with the enthusiasm of the beholder near F'olly Lake, a little eye set in its ileep mountain socket six hundred feet above the sea. From FoUeigh the locomotive and its followers enjoy a toboggan coast for some ten miles out into the open country, overlooking the extremest eastern waters of Fundy. 64 ; cxx'iits su Rivor just ic hi'twcfii ^L'joiir, now l)cl()w arc stood tho ACS as till' and of tlu- ])till ii|) at iiid mining Cliij,'in.'(tt) are jjasscd lis a funny lie same of rich fossil this is tiie long Nova ons of coal lalf million, lurs of rail- 11 Junction, le liasin of •y in all the sections as cription of re. itercolonial eturning to n begins a Mountains, ame name. opens into rm, as seen trait, reach- illy Lake, a jve the sea. I toboggan looking the TRURO, which is at the head of (■()be<iuid May, is a charming town ; large, pros- perous, aristo< ratic looking, in fad, to Nova Scotia what Kredericton is to New IJnmswick, the most attractive of its size. It possesses a remark- ably pretty park and the most varied assortment of drives across moun- tain or UKirsh. and needs, we must add, a i^ooi/ hold. It is here that the lines diverge, running along the fertile valley and capricious waters of Shubenacadie River, (Irand 1-ake, and lledford Masin to Halifax ; or reaching out to that bree/.y isle of Cape llreton, wliither we ai-e journeying. NEW GLASGOW is an intensely practical mining town, possessing many strong reminders along its streets and lanes of its Gaelic founders. Their stamj) is upon it as upon all the country from here eastward to Scatari Islanil. The mines here and at Stellarton are extensive and valuable, and to those who have never seen such, interesting and accessible. ANTIGONISH. From New Glasgow to .\ntigonish are stations whose names are either Scotch or Indian, little towns among fertile fields or along marshy streams j with now and then a glimpse across to the Antigonish Moun- tains. We are in the suggestively named townships of Maxwelton and Arrisaig. Approaching the fair town of Antigonish, the striking twin towers of the Scotch Cathedral of St. Ninian attract the eye and dominate the scene, acting as a foil to the prevailing horizontal lines of the landscape. We recall how grateful Warner found the sight of this town in his quest of BaM-ck. The American elm grows plentifully here, combining with other fair features to make it an alluring retreat for " the traveller who desires nothing but unrestricted lotus-eating." One of the leading products of Nova Scotia is gypsum, of which Antigonish quarries, that honeycomb the great cliffs on George Bay a few miles northward, yield a very large proportion. Some most remark- able contrasts of color are seen in a drive or sail from Antigonish to Cape St. George, the dazzling white cliffs of gypsum rising in places two hundred feet above the turquoise-hued waters of the bay. It is here, too. that a journey southward may be made into the forest wilds of cen- tral Nova Scotia, with their herds of moose and deer ; a wilderness that 65 i ii aimmmmmKMm0imimm r^ rtMchfs with tew intorr 'ptions from (liiyshoroii^h tMstcrly to Halifax westerly. Still fartluT art- the primitive fishing hamlets that line tiic irregular shores of the southern coast. •About the only thing of interest between Antigonish and Mulgrave is the 'I'rappist Monastery near 'I'racadie, at a station calleil Monastery, a very ancient and peculiar institution, whose intent is evitlently to give object lessons in farming and simple living. The close observer will hardly fail to notice on tiie left a most pictures(|ne cluster of silvery gray buildings, over which i)eeps the ijuite foreign-looking spire ami cross of a chajjel. It is another ancient establishment, a nunnery, and a relic of "Id Acadian days. ^^r^^^w^m^..^. From this point on. the fre<iuent outcropping of brilliant white patches of gypsum indicates the character of the soil, afforiling also enlivening contrasts to the deep green of the forests on either hand. Beyond HiUbor ail Boiiche the bristling head of Cape Porcupine looms up over the wilderness, a glimpse of far-away (ieorge Bay is caught, then the train swings sharply to the right and with applied brakes we glide down into MULGRAVE, with the glorious Strait of Canso, across it the Ultima Thule ot our travels and expectations, the fair island of Cape Breton. Canso. or Canseau, is said to be the French derivation, as in so many instances hereabouts, of the Indian word Kainsok, " steep blufls." The name is apt, for on either hand the fine cliffs of Porcupine or Pirates' Cove drop precipitately from an altitude of nearly five hundred feet into the strait, holding between them the curious little Scottish settlement of McNair's Cove. Along this great waterway moves a never-ending procession of 66 •1^. to Halifax It line tiu' tliilnravc is Diiastery, a tly to f,'ivt.' server will iilvery K'ray 1(1 cross of I a relic of lite patches enlivening Beyond ns up over , then the jlide down ule ot our Canso, or y instances le name is Cove drop the strait, f McNair's jcession of the conuuene from every nation of ( ivili/aiion. for it is the short cut lielween the cities of the north ami the outer world. In approaching the island of Cape IJreton from this point, two main avenue> are offend, one by the ferry of the Intercolonial to its railway terminal at llawkeshury, just opposite Muigrave, (ontinuiuK directly through the island to Sydney ; the other, by the steamers of the IJras d'Or Navigation Company via St. I'eter's Canal anil the lakes to the same pla( e. If the traveller wishes spee<l and comfort, the former route is conunendeil ; if to realize to the full the marvellous beauty and variety of the inland sea, then, by all odds, choose the latter. .\ combination of the two is still better, taking steamer for Crantl Narrows via St. Peter's, thence to Sydney, returning by steamer via liaddeck and Why- cocomagh to the Narrows, thence back by rail to .Mulgrave. 67 :TOT^ IHE HRAS P'OR LAKES -SYDNEY- HISTORIC I.OUISHURG — ISADDECK., AND THE GREAT NORTH WILDERNESS, N leaving Miilgrave by Bras d'Or steamer, we steam down the strait past the mysterious Pirates' Cove, i)ast the expectant hamlet of Melford — for this is the spot where "Terminal City" is supposed to have made a beginning. While we are rounding Bear Head on the left, and approaching tlie Lennox passage, it may be opjiortune to generalize a little on this remarkable island of Cape Breton. Its history begins practically with the Portuguese colony, which in the early fifteen hun- dreds was established in the little bay of St. Peter's, then Port Toulouse, and whose memory is kept alive only by the names that have come down from them intact through the years of subsequent history. The sturdy Bretons who succeeded them have left their imi)rint on every part of the island, the name of which itself was given by them. The complicated struggles for possession of this valued spot by French and English, realiz- ing its importance as a strategic jjoint in North America, constitue ,one of the most intensely interesting chapters in New World history. At present the island is essentially a new Scotland, large portions of it being inhabited by the (iaels, while a few settlements are almost wholly French, as at Cheticamp on north shore and Isle Madame, which we are now approaching, and between which and the mainland is Lennox Pass- age. The tenacity with which the customs and traditions of the mother earn clown , past the spot w!iere beginning. ; left, and jneralize a ory begins fteen hun- Toulouse, ome down rhe sturdy part of the Dmplicated lish, realiz- istitue ,one ry. rtions of it lost wholly lich we are inox Pass- the mother countries are retained among these people makes the human interest of the region especially marked. Not less remarkable, however, is the physical aspect of Cape Breton, a trifle over one hundred miles in length, nearly eighty in widtli, and all but divided through the middle by the waters of the famous Bras d'Or lakes, the division having been completed by the fine canal of St. Peter's, making an exceeilingly attractive route for steamers between St. Pierre Island, Newfoundland, and Halifax. These lakes also form the natural boundary between very distinct and opposite land- scape features, that of the northern l)eing mountainous and exceedingly romantic, the southern low and comparatively uninteresting. The mineral resources have recently been brought to our notice through the great enterprise of the Dominion Coal Company, with H. M. Whitney at it head. Gypsum is also a staple and important product as well as a striking feature in the landscape. Of the nearly ninety thousand inhabitants, over ten thousand are engaged in fishing. We cannot but believe that when Cape Breton becomes better known it will rank as one of the great summer resorts of America. Increasing railroad and steamer facilities are making this possible, while the unrivalled climate, uniciue land and water-scape beauty, and unlimiteil opportunity for sport and recreation make it more than probable. By this time we are fairly within Lennox Passage, with evidences on every hand of the French who inhabit Isle Madame, and cruise up and down the shores in their Frenchy- looking schooners and fishing smacks. BRAS DOR LAKES. Passing through the great government canal of St. Peter's, the course lies cjnong closely bordering shores and irregular coves and headlands for some six or eijht miles. The large and quaint settlement of the Micmac Indians is passed midway, its white Catholic Church standing out as a landmark for some miles. It is on these islands on St. Anne's day that the Indians hold a religious encampment, with ceremonials and processions of a very unique kind, — a pilgrimage to keep alive the faith among the faint-hearted. A tiny white lighthouse at Cape George marks the entrance to St. Peter's Inlet, or, in our case, the exit. Spread before the delighted eyes are the flashing waters of the Great Bras d'Or. Nearly twenty miles across, on the right, reaching its golden arm far into the island, lies East Bay ; on the other hand, the island-studded waters of West 69 Bay ; the two making a salt inland sea of fifty miles in length, and some- lliing like three hundred square miles area. Directly ahead is the nohle hill of Henacadie, at its left the Strait of Barras, or (Irand Narrows; over West Bay, Marble Mountain stands majestically, while along the shores frecjuent gleaming plaster cliffs accent the view, and green islands stand at anchor. A more jjeriect sheet of water for canoeing or yachting could not be imagined, for among its many virtues is that of a scarcely perceptible tide, six inches being the maximum rise and fall. Salmon, cod, mackerel, lobsters, oysters, smelt, and many other kinds of fish abound in their season ; while water fowl fretiuent the coves and estuaries in great numbers. u .' I- GRAND NARROWS. The great iron bridge, nearly a mile in length, spanning Barras Strait, carries the Intercolonial Railway, and connects Sydney and the interven- ing towns with the outside world. At this point a little setUement has sprung into existence, centred about the hotel and two or three stores. The natural beauties of the place, its accessibility and central location in relation to the whole Bras d'Or region, good boating and bathing as well, are destined to make Grand Narrows one of the ^rs/ resorts ot Cape Breton. The hotel is one of the best on the island, the views in every direction full of variety and charm. From this point one can make with comfort trips up, down, or across the lake, by rail or boat. Northward are the noble lines of the Bad- 70 1 •^^ 1 i **• ^ *i (Lj,nT;fe>of^'&ilgr»H k i : f, : deck Mountains, eastward the sweeping iii)lanils of Honlarderie Island, l)etween these and the l)ehoider the ever-varied and always beautiful waters of the Little Bras d'Or. We will leave the steamer here in jiursuance of our plan as suggestec', and take to the rail again, following almost continually the shore from (Irancl Narrows to Sydney. It is after leaving Shenacadie that the glimpses of lake and mountain begin to arrest attention ; at Boisdale a magnificent line of hills skirts the shore, and the grand outlines of I-ong Islanil burst on the view, separated l)y a narrow channel from the main- land. For several miles the eye will be held l)y a succession of entranc- ing vistas, all the while surrounded with the luxuries of a modern railway service. Little Bras d'Or Lake is very remarkably connected with the Atlantic by two narrow channels, between which lies Boularderie Island, the southern or St. Andrew channel we have been following, and continue to do so till after passing Long Island, when the rail turns southward, cross- ing and skirting arms of the Sydney Harbor, finally entering the town of If , '^, SYDNEY, the largest on the island and the centre of a vast coal region. The immense piers running far out into the harbor, the numerous steamers and vessels of all types, the long trains, coal laden, all speak of the one 72 Icrio Island, xys beautiful as suggestet', shore from die that the .t Boisdaie a ines of I-ong n the maiii- n of entranc- idern railway the Atlantic Island, the I continue to liward, cross- t the town of egion. The 3us steamers c of the one great industry. The town is not especially notable, being on the \)w- gressive stage, with every prosjject of a brilliant future. One or two of the older streets are very quaint, and contain frecpient hints of the days when the French were more numerous. .\ large and motlern hotel has just been erected here, with the intent to satisfy tlie demands of the constantly increasing tourist patronage. This is the eastern terminal of the Intercolonial, and the most eastern point to which any railway extends in America ; a coal railway runs trains of a mixed character southward to the coal mines and to Louis- burg. The Bras d'Or steamer line also has its terminal here. Sydney's importance as a port may be judged by the fact that in one year, that of 1892, over fourteen hundred vessels, mostly steamers, entered and cleared, also that her export of coal amounted to over two hundred thousand tons. Estimates of experts, based on former tests of duration of seams, indicate that Sydney district has /wo billion tons of available coal ! The seams vary from three to twelve feet in thickness, and ninety to four hundred in width, extending in many instances far out under the .Atlantic. HISTORIC LOUISBURG. To him who has a fondness for history or anticpes, to the American especially, the annals of this fortress of the east must be particularly fascinating. Of the twenty miles between Sydney and Louisburg little can be said ; it is intensely uninteresting. Over the portal of Gore Hall at Harvard College ^ is fixed a quaint wrought-iron cross, brought by the colonial troops from Louisburg as a trophy; in the grounds of a well-known physician of Syd- ney stands a curious cannon of the swivel pattern, rescued from the waters of Louisburg Harbor ; so far as known these are all the existing relics of the once-power- ful stronghold. Standing on the few remaining earthworks at Louisburg, looking around on the grassy mounds that indicate the oudines of the once massive walls, " curiosity is lost in won- der, wonder gives way to reflection, and reflection leads straight to the question, 'What do all these miles of earthworks mean?'" Drake, in 73 . -r.r" his "taking of Kouisbiirg," gives a concise history of this remarkahlc fortress, which is more than the space or intent of this httle volume permits. " In creating l-ouishurg the court of Versailles had far more extended views than the building of a strong fortress to guard the gateway into Canada would of itself imply." We read from Parkman's fascinating pages of the ambitions and hopes of the French in .\nierica, of the importance of (Quebec, that (jueenly city of the north, and the intended relative jjosition Louisburg was to hold on the southern limits of .\cadia. It was after the treaty of Utrecht, in 1713, that action began, and in thirty years was created at an expense of nearly five millions (of present money value) a fortress that was known as the Dunkirk of .America. The taking of I.ouisburg by a raw army of recruits and vohuiteers ot New luigland in 1 745 is one of the marvels of military history, a sur- jtrise to the world, an everlasting memorial to the valor and pluck of sturdy Capt. Pepperell and his New England yeomen. !■ 1 BRAS DOR AGAIN. If there is one tri)) to be named above another on the island, it is that of the steamer from Sydney to Baddeck, Whycogomagh, or Ckand Narrows via (Ireat Rras d'Or. Leaving Sydney at a comfortable hour in the morning, the " Marion " crosses to the thriving rival town of North Sydney, and then puts out to sea past the red cliffs of Cranberry Head, with its great smoke-stacks and colliery elevators, the works of the Syd- ney mines, and around the giant blocks and columns of Point Aconi. Then the course lies southwest into the narrow portal of Great Bras d'Or, jiast the sandy bar that all but closes the entrance, and up close under the shadow of Kelley's Mountain, which here rises twelve hun- dred feet above the cove bearing the same name. There are many conjectures as to the origin of this " Jrm of Gold." We prefer to accept it as an evidence of the imaginative (lualities of the Breton settlers who gave the name ; its appropriateness is manifest to him who for the first time looks upon the " greater arm." From the entrance to the end of the channel near Baddeck, the waters seldom exceed a mile in width, in one place less than a half-mile and are over- looked by the wild summits of the Englishtown Mountains, and dotted by many wooded isles. In two or three instances the stui^endous chalk cliffs disclose themselves from their [forest surroundings, like marble palaces in a primeval wilderness. 74 :j. -U..yi;iiii.i)«i ifimi'ii ----fTniigr~^"r"— rcmarkaldc ttlc voliinif re cxtcndctl [atc'way into fascinating rica, of tliu he intenik'il s of Acadia. :gan, and in (of present nierica. ohmteers ot story, a sur- nd pluck of •nd, it is tiiat I, or (kand able hour in in of North berry Head, of the Syd- iit Aconi. ■ Great Bras nd up close twelve hun- m of Goldr alities of the manifest to From the Iters seldom id are over- , and dotted indous chalk like marble BADDECK. At tile broadest portion of Little Bras d'Or Lake a l)ay nnis up into the hills, at the entrance of which stands the finest residence on tiie island, tlie summer home of Prof. liell, the inventor of the American telephone ; on the other side, behind a forest-covered island and its lighthouse, a straggling town with spires outlined against <lark hills ; it is Baddeck, known to all well-read Americans through Charles Dudley Warner's " Baddeck and that Sort of Thing." To this out of the way, jiriniitive, i)ictur- escjue town have come a few cultured .Americans, who are forming a social nucleus to which will be aikled the choicest spirits of the resort that is to be. Perhaps not a great and fashionable resort, but such as will attract and hold the lover of Nature for her own sake. The motto of this pio- neer settlement seems to be, "Once Baddeck, always Baddeck." The origin of this odd name is the Indian " Bedek," adapted by French as Bedeque. The town itself is not alluring, but its environment may be described in most ex- travagant .v.rms. Within easy distances are most glorious mountain and lake scenery ; a score of mountain streams and rivers fill the air with singing and roaring, and yield lusty trout and salmon. The famed Margaree River, first of Nova Scotian salmon streams, lies twenty miles away ; St. Anne's Bay. most beautiful of all on the island, but ten miles northeasterly ; and I 75 in- 1 ^■--^^•^ ^ ■iiM f ii ff in a U tii u lieyund, the wild iiorllicrii sliorc slretdKs away to Int,Miiisli, buunil l)y a line of stiipciitlons cliffs and mountains, back of tlicni the vast tal.lelands of Victoria County, lovered with iniineval forests, over which roam tnidisturbed great herds of caribou. A drive along this coast, or, better, a journey afoot, depiudiiig on the warm and homely hosjiitalily of tlie Ciaelic settlers, reveals a mode of living that for absolute primitiveness is nowhere e(inalled on our continent. Here are seen grinding of corn by hand-stones, timber hewn in a similar crude manner, or sawn by mills, home made ; while from every door comes the sound of spinning-wheel or click of shuttle in the family loom. Not less interesting are the Micmac In- dians, who pitch their wigwams on the hillside at Haddeck, their per- manent settlements being at Indian Cove and at Kscasoni near drand Narrows. WHYCOCOMAGH. Leaving Baddeck and following the steamer route through St. Pat- rick's Channel and Little Narrows leads one to the western extremity of the lake, and into the trossach scenery of the bay and town of Whyco- comagh. If its name is a stumbling-block, let nothing else deter from finding it out. It is a gem of purest quality, a bit of Scotland, it would seem, imported with the hardy Scot as a reminder of his native bens and lochs. From here are reached the inland lake of Ainslie, and the trout streams that flow from and into it ; more distant are the Gulf shore towns and coal areas soon to be reached by rail of Fort Hood and Mabou, and away up north in for Inverness County the French Acadian fishing port of Cheticamp. It may not be amiss to add that in this town, which the natives call " Hogomah " for brevity, is a comfortable and attractive hotel, that provides all the game delicacies in their season. Having briefly hinted at the wealth of good things that nature has bestowed on "this land whereon the sun first shines," we reluctantly 76 nish, bound LMU tlic vast 'orcsts, over rhetl great drive along . a journey ie warm anil tlie Ciaelic Ilk' of living iiitiveness is urrontinent. ing of corn ■r hewn in a or sawn by while from le sound of k of shuttle . Not less Micmac In- k, their per- near drand lugh St. Pat- extremity of 1 of Whyco- i deter from uid, it would native bens nd the trout ; Gulf shore t Hood and :nch Acadian that in this comfortable their season. it nature has e reluctantly leave it l)y the portion of railway whidi we omitted in our steamer detour through the lakes. From ('.rand Narrows, then, to Mawkesbury, we ( rossed first the great iron bridge of the government, through whi.h vessels are allowed to i)ass at all times ex. ept wiien dosed for trains, and along the irregular shore, catching aggravating glimpses of bay and island, distant mountain an.l broad lake ; past stations that seemingly have no excuse for being, till we learn tliat scores of little settlements inland find through them an outlet from their isolation. Orangedale is the station for that town whose name we fear to speak, Whycocomagh, and the terminal of the railway imder construction that is to tap the great coal areas northward, to oi)en also the wonderfully beautifully country of the .\inslie region. From Orangedale westward the view is tame and uninteresting, till Cape Porcupine breaks upon the view again, and the aninuited panorama of Strait of t'anso. and busy Port Hawkesbury, where our transfer steamer is waiting to bear us across to the Scotian mainland, to scenes of old .Xcadia, — • " Wlicie lilomidon's blue crest looks down upon the v.illcy land, And the nre.it waves of Kundy lap the gray stones on the strand ; Where sunny Gaspereaux sweeps on amid the upple-trees, And the blue waves of Minas chant a rcc|iiiein to the breeze." 77 liliillV \N1> HIE ANNAHOl IS IIAnIN -ANNAPOLIS AND IHK VAI.IKV 1 VANdKI.INKS I.AND-MINAS llASIN — HAI.H'AX, AND THK SOI Til SHOKi;. \v the traveller has Ni)va Scutia for the objective pointy the voyage i)ar excellence is by the shore route we have tlescribecl to St. John ; thence across the Hay of Fundy, by steamer " Monticello," through the Digbydut to (juaint old I)igl)y town, aiul through Annapolis liasin to Annapolis. The above steamer lies at its wharf adjoining that of the Interna- tional Company, thus obviating disagreeable transfers across town. Many unpleasant things are said of Fundy's temper, but in its sum- mer moods it gives them all the lie, whatever its actions may be in other seasons when the elements combine with the tides to try men's souls; inileed a more charming sail than that across to .Annapolis could scarce be imagined ; in miles it is sixty, in time four anil one half hours. The Acadian shore first reveals itself in little purplish mounds that rest like cK .diets along the dim hori/on, then a long line of cliff-bound shores melting away into nothingness at either end, finally as a great mountain wall, into whose sides a narrow i)ortal opens, and toward which our good steamer steadily ploughs. .Xs we run between the rugged shores. I'oint Prim and its light on the one hand, the little fishing town of Lower (Iranville on the other, a scene of (piite opposite and entirely unifpie loveliness opens out. This is the foir land and placid waters that greeted Champlain and De Monts, wooing them to its shores, and giving to the world those leaves in history inscribed with the romantic annals of Port Royal. ,'AI.I.KY- [D jectivc point oute we liave ay ot" Fiimly, )igl)y (lilt to )olis IJasin to the Interna- i town, t in its sum- y be in other men's souls ; could scarce hours. mounds that )f cliff-bound ly as a great toward wiiich 1 the rugged fishing town and entirely placid waters s shores, and the romantic ■ari.rtrJUmm^ v&ra'liraiufcli fc-w a-i*"- •'-lilB'jMiVir DIGBY AND ANNAPOLIS BASIN. l-'roiii Hryer Island, fifty miles southwest, to hoary Cape Hlomidon, eighty miles northeasterly, stretches a mountain bulwark sheltering from fog and tempest St. Mary's Bay, Annapolis Basin, the fruitful valleys of Annapolis and Cornwallis, the broad acres of Grand Pr^, and the green banks of the Avon. M the foot of the basin little Digby sits in the sunshine and spreads its ruddy beach along the tide, surrountled by towering hills, except where well-tilied slopes give place. It is a quaint, homy town, old colonial houses here and there, a cluster of gray and mossy fishing huts nestling by the cove and guns that never roar on the bluffs that face the pier. Two gooil and (]uiet houses entertain the traveller ; a half-dozen picturesque roads lure him out into the country, and the railway leads to far western Yarmouth town along the beautiful bay of St. Maiy's, and out again in view of Fundy ; back of it, a little way only, stretch illimitable forests, with silent lakes and all that live therein to attract the rod or gun. The rail also skirts the bay if one chooses to go that way, through Bear River Village, Pleasant Cove, and half a score of thrifty hamlets to Annapolis. Continuing by steamer, we pass Bear Island mid-basin, and up the gradually narrowing bay lined with farms that teem with fruitfulness and plenty, overlooked by the slopes of the North Mountains and the spires of Granville's churches. .After twenty miles of delightful sailing we approach the storied old town and huge fortifications of i ANNAPOLIS, tile Port Royal of ye olden time, and the focal point around which clusters more history than any town in this Acadian Valley into which we are entering. Founded by Poutrincourt in 1604, to whom it was granted, it was soon abandoned, to be resettled by the Jesuits later, demolished by the English in 16 13, and again partially rebuilt by Bien- court, who kept alive a fur-trading post till Acadia's restoration to the French in 1632. For a century and a half Port Royal was tossed back and forth between the rival powers, till its final capture by the New England colonists, after which it became Annapolis Royal and the English strong- hold of Acadia. The discontented Acadians and Indian allies main- tained a petty siege for forty years after, until that tragic but necessary event which we have learned more generally from Longfellow's idyll than 80 le Blomidon, altering from fill valleys of nd the green and spreads hills, except ny town, old y fishing huts that face the a half-dozen railway leads f St. Maiy's, only, stretch to attract the go that way, are of thrifty , and up the litfulness and nd the spires 111 sailing we iround which ey into which whom it was Jesuits later, juilt by Bien- iration to the ick and forth Mew England nglish strong- 1 allies niain- but necessary )w's idyll than from other sources, and which brought peace, to be broken only by tiiat saucy and si)unky attack by Americans in 1781, who spiked the guns, locked the villagers uj) in the block house, and proceeded to decorate with vermilion whatever the town contained. From tiie grassy ramparts which are seen on approaching the town now are heard the mellow blast from browsing kine, whose rustic forms replace the dismounted guns. The old block house but recently suc- cumbed to the destroyer's hand ; the French magazine and ancient barracks will doubtless follow them, unprotected as they are by a care- less community. The present .Annapolis invites the loiterer, with its shady streets and quaint residences, its air of anticpiity and the indefinable sentiment that always clings about such spots. The Dominion .Atlantic Railway here extends to the landing, its trains waiting to speed the tourist into Acadia's heart, the land of Evangeline, " The Tourists' Paradise," as its dainty little guide-book calls it. If a few days can be given to this fair region, a drive or climb over North Mountain down to the rugged cliffs on the Fundy shore should be taken, another through the marshes and orchards of Annapolis, for — " Fair is I'ort Koyal River In tile Acadian land ; It flows through verdant meadows, Widespread on either hand "; and again along little Lequille River to the village of legendary fame ; while to the fisherman and gunner no words can fitly tell the treasures that lie along the wilderness road all the way to Liverpool and Port Metway. Lakes, streams, virgin forest, all are there in primal condition. The companion of the idle hour should be Miss McLeod's " Stories of the Land of Evangeline," many of whose scenes are laid just here. ANNAPOLIS VALLEY. From Annapolis to Windsor is the trtte Evangeline land, " the land flowing with milk and honey" ; in May a garden of apple-blossoms, in October an orchard of ripening fruit, and always radiant in a climate fit for the gods. One is carried in the luxurious cars of the " Flying Blue- nose " express, drawn by " Basil," the blacksmith, or " Gabriel," the lover, is disappointed not to see an Acadian peasant collecting fares, instead of the gentlemanly conductor in regulation uniform, and looks, as did Warner, for the signboard reading, " Look out for Evangeline while the bell rings .' " How little our gentle poet knew what potent advertising he was doing for railroad managers ! 81 If" ■- l?.«fc^ai?SrS!T't£?*^TB m ■ n I The beautiful marshes, bordered by solid masses of bronze-green foliage, and varying with the ever-changing cloud shadows from gold to purple, serve as a ground on which the tidal stream executes silvery patterns for miles, until lost in thread-like rivulets among the hillr. North Mountain always fills the background, its broad slopes covered with an applique of patches of woodland green and tawny fields, with now anil then a bit of winding road or gleaming farmhouse adding a touch of light. Bridgetown is the only considerable town en route to Kentville, and looks for all the world like a smart American village, with its covered bridge and Gothic spire. At Middleton the Nova Scotia Central Rail- way, the only one except that by which we are travelling to reach the 82 ;s of bronze-green tlows from gold to m executes silvery long the hillr. ■oacl slopes covered i tawny fields, with irrnhouse adding a • to Kentville, and e, with its covered Scotia Central Rail- elling to reach the •^i--" :^'^. south shore, branches off for Lunenburg, IJridgewatcr, and the regions of beauty in their vicinity, chiefest of which is Mahone Hay, with its mul- titude of islands, silvery beaches, and rocky iieadlands. Leaving Middleton, the river gra<lually dwindles, settlements become fewer and smaller, then the Cornwallis begins, leading onward to Minas Basin district, its dike lands and Acadian villages. KENTVILLE, WOLFVILLE, GRAND PRE The railway centre of the " Land of Kvangeline Route," as much also the commercial centre of Kings County, the terminal o. the railway running to Kingsport, the beautiful valley of the Canard River, and old Blomidon's territory, convenient to the beautiful C.aspereaux Lakes and the Blue Mountains just south, is Kentville. More attractive, less commercial, pre-eminently scholastic, and nearer the Grand Pr6 fields is VVolfville. It staniis on the edge of the marsh, partly on a lovely hillside, which overlooks the Basin of Minas and Blomidon on one side, the fairyland of the Gaspereaux on the other. The handsome buildings of Acadia College and two or three prei)ara- tory schools occupy the most commanding site in town, whose outlook is a liberal education in itself. Here one can wander at will over the fields reclaimed by the .Acadian peasants, follow for miles the dikes that stay the tides in their mad advance, and live under the spell that poesy has woven about these waters : — " A grievous stream, that to and fro Athrough the fields of Acadie Goes wandering, as if to know Why one beloved tace should be So long from home and Acadie." Standing on the dikes at high tide, on one hand are glassy miles of flood, on the other rippling fields of ripening harvests, or contented herds which crop the rich sward, — a contrast unique and strange, whose strangeness lessens not after many visits. Three miles away is the dreamy hamlet of Grand Pr^, nestling among elms and apple-trees, keeping alive the name bestowed by those people whom history has proven not undeserving of their fate, but whose memories live in romance like dream faces, undyingly ; best described in the poet's own lines : — " In the Ac.idian land, on the shores of the Basin of Minas, Distant, secluded, still, the little village of Grand Pre Lay in the fruitful valley. Vast meadows stretched to the eastward Giving the village its name, and pasture to flocks without number. 83 1 West ami s.mth there were fields ..f tlax. and orchards and crnhelds Spreading alar and nnfence.l oVr the pUun ; and away to tlie northward ISIoM.idon rose, and the forests old, and aloft on the mountanis Seafo«s pitched their tents, and mists from the mighty Atlantic _ Looked on the happy valley, but ne'er from their station descended. Close bv the railway are the imlistinct remains ..f the ancient town, willows ma;king the line of the street, an old well, the village s.inare ; over the meadows at Barton Landing is the shore whence sailed the exiled band. Passing through the village, with here and there a home built bv Puritan settlers. an<l their .luaint colonial church, one soon reaches the stimmer home of Judge Weatherbee, "St. Kulalie," grace- fullv named, where Gaspereaux River again is seen, and .ndistmct traces of the highway of the Acadians, winding down to the vale •' Amitl its yellowing sea of flowers." a few gnarled apple-trees preserved by loving hands, remnants of broken homes. " Ye exiled sons of lily France ! This is no more your dwelling place ; But oft as purple eventide Mathcs all these hills in fire and dew. Some wanderer by the river-side Shall drop a tear and dream of you." MINAS BASIN. If the \nnapolis Valley is a spot to lure and detain for indefinite periods the traveller, then the Basin of Minas with its northern shore, amazing, striking, exhilarating, calls loudly for an equal share of atten- tion Accessible by the steamer leaving Hantsport, or the Evangeline Navigation Company's line from Kingsport to Parrsboro', the finest and most awe-inspiring views of Blomidon from all sides are obtained. The latter company's steamer runs out under the cape, and around it into full view of the entire basin. .Across the bay are the noble Cobequid Mountains, Sugar Loaf dominating the range ; at their feet the glowing reddish and white masses of the Five Islands, and great cliffs of Frazers Head, especially interesting to an artist or geologist. Following the shore westward the eye rests on distant Parrsboro' first, then on Par- tridge Island, Cape Sharp, Ram Head, fully sustaining its right to such a name, and far away the receding curves of Greville B^)'- ^om out which looms the majestic headlands of Cape Spencer and Cap D Or, terminals of the great Peninsula of Cumberland County. When midway of the basin, Blomidon discloses all the columns of its basaltic formation, clothed, as befits a 'dngl/ form, in purple hues ; 84 [1 cnniliflds tlic northward tains tlantic Ifsccndcd." le ancient town, e village s<niare ; hence sailed the ml there a home hurch, one soon ;. Kulalie," grace- :l indistinct traces e vale " Aniid its eserved by lo\ing tain for indefinite ts northern shore, lal share of atten- or the Evangeline iro', the finest and ire obtained. The md around it into le noble Cobequid ir feet the glowing :at cliffs of Frazer's it. Following the first, then on Par- g its right to such alle Bay, from out :er and Cap D'Or, mty. all the columns of m, in purple hues ; ^^%-^"^ adjoining it is still another gigantic freak of nature, Cape Split, a detached column of rock like a monument to some fallen aboriginal war- rior, defying all time and elements. Between it and Cape Sharp, less than three miles away, the savage currents of incoming and outgoing tides snarl and roar. Everything here is on a inagnificent scale. Little wonder that it should have been the home of Gluska]), to the Indian's fancy, and the scene of many of his wondrous carousals and feats 1 Arriving at Parrsboro', the visitor will find a comfortable hotel, and should spend time enough to drive along the truly remarkable shores to Economy on one side and Advocate Harbor on the other, and the great coal mines inland. Rail connection is from here made with the Intercolonial — as noted in a former section — at Spring Hill Junction. 85 : I \ WINDSOR. Leaving Grand I'rc^ or Wolfville the route loa<ls tlirough the Inisy little shipbuilding town of Hantsport, where one may see oftentimes a score of vessels reclining at various angles on tiie muddy banks, or float- ing well up to the level of the marshes, as the tide may determine, crosses the broad waters of the Avon and stops at one of the most interesting and beautiful towns in Nova Scotia, Windsor. Of course every guide-book ever written telis you that " Sam Slick " lived here, that on the hill near the station stand the block house, maga- zine, and barracks of Fort Kdward, with Annapolis' ruins — the possession of the Crown ; that King's College, oldest of B:ngland's colonial univer- sities, is here, dating from i 790, and that it was one of the oldest and largest of the Acadian settlements ; but it cannot convey to you the subtle charm of the landscape, attaining its fullest expression as seen from the college grounds, nor put into adequate Knglish the foreign air that pervades the place ; in the latter respect it approaches Halifax, from which it is distant forty-six miles. One's first impression of Windsor may not be pleasing, as the old portion near the river is more picturesciue than tidy ; its post-office and court house are promises of better things to come. It will be a matter of surprise to learn that this is third among ship owning towns in Canada, and that its gold mine, a few miles south, is actually a paying invest- ment. The most novel effects of the tides are again seen here. Warner remarked that he " never knew before how much water adds to a river ! " It may not be amiss to mention that bne of Canada's first poets, widely read in the United States, C. G. D. Roberts, has his home here, occupy- ing the chair of English Literature in King's College. The journey hence to Halifax is not interesting although brief, leading through wilderness and flat lantls. HALIFAX. This interesting city deserves a long and complete chapter by itself, and it is fitting that it should serve as a climax to all that has gone before. Its chief interest to the visiting American is its decided English tone and aspect ; in this particular it is perhaps more individual than any other Canadian city, save Montreal. Possessed of one of the finest harbors of the world, finer than any on the Atlantic coast at least, and with a system of fortifications most com- 86 rough the Inisy ;e oftentimes a banks, or float- may determine, ic of the most It " Sam Slick " :k house, maga- — the possession colonial univer- the oldest and vey to you the iression as seen the foreign air oaches Halifax, sing, as the old post-office and will be a matter owns in Canada, I paying invest- II here. Warner idds to a river !" •St poets, widely le here, occupy- igh brief, leading chapter by itself, 1 that has gone decided English individual than finer than any on itions most com- plete and redoubtable in the New World, Halifax is easily .pieen of the northern seas and secure from the attacks of any maritime power. Though less ancient than the i)ort of La Have on the southern shore, and less rich in history, Halifox had the advantaj^e in 1749 "f l>eginnmg its existence with a colony of over twenty-five hundred, which m six months had grown to five thousand, aiul in 1894 something like ten times as many souls. It is beautiful for situation, overlooking its harbor and the Bedford Hasin in either direction, and graced by many solid and noble civic and ecclesiastic buildings, with streets that strongly sug- gest corners of London or Edinburgh. The Haligonian, when approached by proper letters of mtroduction, is one of the most delightful entertainers possible, otherwise he is inclined to be exclusive One sees on the public thoroughfares numer- ous well-dressed men and women, anwng whom the reilcoat of the regu- lars mingles in pleasin? contrast of color. The Public Ciardens are noteworthy and famous :ll through the north, and at times, when the fine military band plays, with the accompanying illuminations and listen- ing crowds, is a scene of great brilliancy and animation. It is seldom vouchsafed a stranger to enter the ramparts of the cita- del or the works and batteries in the harbor, lest he be especially favored, but it is possible and very interesting to attend the military services at Garrison Chapel, to visit the old church of St. Paul's, the Cathedral, the Parliament buildings, the Point Pleasant Park, the Ter- race; and on early morning of a Wednesday and Saturday, the Green Market. The opportunities for getting away from Halifax by water are numer- ous, whether for Europe or the States, Newfoundland, Cape Breton, St. Pierre, or Quebec ; or the fair bays and resorts that line the still fairer South Shore, St. Margaret's Bay, incomparable Mahone Bay, Chester, Lunenburg, La Have, Liverpool, Shelburne, and a host of other towns equally attractive. Chester is a favorite resort of Haligomans and people from the Southern States; Lunenburg is large, thriving, and almost exclusively German ; Bridgewater on the La Have is rich in history and legends of the Acadians, and offers great inducements to the canoeist or fisherman in its rivers and lakes inland. IN CONCLUSION. We have omitted much, regretfully, necessarily have left unsaid that which we ought to have said, and said that which we ought not to have 87 I ] i li it \\- --■ f .- said, — jicrhaps. This much should lie said : travel to the Provinces and through them is not what it onie was, a matter of labor and tribulation ; the genius of modern jjrogress has followed the exile of the Acadian anil the songs of the poet. Transportation has become notetl for " sjieed and comfort and safety." In the land of the " Uluen.)se " and " Ituckwheat " the vacatum fund can be made to go a long way, for board -verywherc is reasonable, exceedingly so, and in most cases good, although plain. A constant improvement in all these particulars is taking place. Sincerely hoping this little book may fulfd its intended mission among vacation planners, it is sent on its way. Wi'ii I iirrtii 88 ic Provinces anil anil trihuhition ; of the Acadian ^onie noteil for ' Hlucn )se " and a long way, for nost cases good, ticulars is taking iitended mission 5^- f Local Passenger Fares. ONE WAY AND RETURN. I-KOM liOSTON. • ONI : WAV. KEIIJKN. Boston to Annapolis, \.S., via Si. John .... 56.25 5ri.oo Calais, Me J. 00 9.00 nigbv, N.S., via .St. Jolin 6.00 10.50 Eastport, Me 4.25 8.00 Portland, Me 1.00 2.00 R()bl)inston, Me • 5.00 9.00 St. Andrew.s, \.U 5.00 9.00 St. John, N.ll 5.00 9.00 FROM roRTLANl). I'ortland to .Xnnapolis, N.S., via St. John 56.00 510.50 Calais, Me 4- so 8.00 Digby, N.S. . . ... 5.50 9-75 " Eastport, Me. 3-rs 7.00 '• Robbinston, Me 4- so 8.00 " St. Andrews, N.H. . . . • • 4- SO 8.00 '• St. John, N.IJ. . » . , i 4.50 8.00 FROM OTHKK POINTS. Calais to St. John, N.B. . .... . $1.50 52.50 Robbinston to St. John, N.H. . . . . . 1.50 2.50 St. Andrews to St. John, N.B t.so 2.50 Eastport to St. John, N.B 1.50 2.25 7|y~ The above one-way rates are for limited tickets. Unlimited tickets are sold at an advance. Return tickets are good during the year in which they are purchased. The same passenger rates will be in force from July ist to September 2d, via the Boston & Maine R.R. to Portland, thence by steamer, as by steamer direct; and tickets reading "'by steamer" will be accepted via the Boston & Maine R.R. Also, tickets reading "via the R.R." to Portland, thence by steamer, will be ac- cepted by direct steamer from Boston. 89 r n^ TAKIFI< OF RATES. Ai thl» book goes to preii prevloui to publication of the Company's Summar Rat* 8h««ti, thaw may l)« illght changes In Ih* ratei namtd balcw. Th» right It resarvtd to maka such changes. ^ KKSTINATION. KkOM IIohTON. KkoM I'.iUTI.ASO.^ iUnumitid. Limited. „UHiiMitKi.. I.imukk. 6.35 10. 50 17.65 12. uo AMIII'.kST, N.S >8-75 " and return 5I4-65 Andovir, N.ll 9'30 " and return IS'45 Annapolis, N.S T-^S " and return ' II -00 Antigonish, N.S " and return Aulmrn, Mt!. (M.C. K K.) 2.00 ((;. T. K'y) a. 00 Augusta, Me 3'°° Aylesford, N.S " and return BADDIXK, r.ll 1350 " and return 23.25 Hath, Me 3. 25 H.ithiirst, N.H '0'0° f " and return 16.45 Berwick, N.S 7-45 " and return 12.85 Bridgetown, N.S 6- 5° " and return 1 1 • 50 CALAIS, Me 6.25 S-°° \ " and return 9-oo Caledonia, N.S , Cambridge, N.S 1 7 -SO " and return i3'io Campbellton, N.B "00 " and return 18.00 Campobello, N.ll S.50 ; 4-50 " and return 8.50 ■ Caribou, N.B. (via River and Rail) 10. oc " and return 16.50 Cliarlottetown, P.E.I «oSo " and return I79S Chatham, N.B ; 9-50 " and return 'S'7S Crawford House, N.ll 4-50 DALHOUSIE, N.H 10-95 " and return 17 '95 Digby, N.S 700 " and return 10.50 Dorchester, N.B • " and return '3'^S EASTPORT, Me 5-5 " and return 8.00 FALMOUTH, N.S " and return 14.00 Fort Fairfield, Me. {via River and Rail). 9.70 " and return 16.05 Fredericton, N.B. (via River) 6 00 [ " and return 11. co '. GRAND PRE, N.S 8.50 750 " and return 14.00 6.00 ■8.25' 4.25 7.50 90 *8.2S la.45 6.50 10.50 10.35 17.40 $6.00 7 80 11.10 7'.^o 9.50 IS4S 795 II 35 7.00 10.00 8.00 9.50 8.10 11.60 17.00 5.00 7-50 9.50 1 5- 50 17.25 9.00 14 75 7-4S 6.50 4.50 10.50 4.00 9.50 10.45 16.95 6.50 9-75 'i'2'.k's 4-75 7.00 8.70 14.00 9.20 1505 5-50 9.50 8.50 13.45 S-50 7-75 3-75 8.20 8.00 TARIFF OF RATES. -Continued. taU Sheeti, thtrt I luch change). K.IM I'llKTI.ANP. UlTBll. LlMITai). i\ ::::::::■ .80 • 45 .50 $6.00 ■50 ■»5 •40 80 i 7.30 .10 I-50 145 •95 7-«S •35 •••^ .00 6.50 ).00 ,•75 4-5° i.oo ).So 8.50 i.io 7.60 1.60 10.50 7.00 5.00 4.00 '•50 ^•50 ! 5^S0 9^S0 ?-2S 3.00 4 75 0-45 : 69s ' 6.50 s^SO 9-75 i 7-75 2-85 \ 4^75 3-75 7.00 8.70 ' 8.20 4.00 I 9.20 i 505 ! 5-50 I 9.50 ...^■••. 8.50 i 8.00 2-45 TtESTINATION. IUmumitid. KhoM I'iiMTLAND. HALIFAX. N.S. (via I. C. U'y) Jii.oo f^ifi ** iinil return i^.S" » (vuT \V. A. K'y) II. OS ; 8.50 " and return 16.50 | Hantsport, N.S 7 -50 " and return 14.00 Har. Au liouchc '' ii.6o :........ Harcourt, N.H 8-55 " and return '4'3o Heatherton, N.S 10.85 9.25 7.00 7.50 7.05 LiMITBO. rUNUMITKD., LiMITBD. 59.00 #9.50 14.50 9. 30 '5. 50 8.70 ia.85 1 1, to 8.05 '3'30 10,00 9.00 8.35 12.00 755 •0.75 7.20 10.25 7.70 8.20 14.15 Hopewell, N.S 05© ir.mlton. Me 8.75 | 7-oo KKNTVIM.K, N.S " and return 13. 5© Kingston, N.S " and return 12.25 LAWRKNCETOWN, N.S ; 6.70 " and return. I1.75 1 Lewiston, Me 2 . 00 j Liverpool, N.S 9-00 Londonderry, N.S 8.85 " and return ' I4'65 MECHANIC FALLS, Me 1 2.30 j Metapedia, N.lt ".ao " and return '8.35 Meteghan, N.S \ 7 ■ 'o Middleton, N.S 6.85 " and return 1190 1 Moncton, N.H 7-65 " and return 1300 Montreal, r.Q. (G. T. R'y) 1 »-.50 \ (viaP. &0. R'y)....| 8.50 I Ri'ulgrave, N.S ' 1 1 . 50 " and return 18.75 '7'7S NEW CASTLE, N.B 930 " " " and return ; 15.40 New Glasgow, N.S " and return New Mills, N.B " and return <7-4S North Conway, N.H 1 3-45 OLD ORCHARD, Me 2.35 Oxford, N.S I I 8.7s and return \ 14.80 6.50 7'75 7.05 6 70 10.70 ■3-3S 7.25 7-35 10.50 7-15 12.00 »5'75 9.25 10.60 11.00 8.80 14.40 9.00 15-50 10.10 16.45 PARADISE, N.S Peticodiac, N.B Pictou, N.S and return, and return, and return. Poland Springs Portland, Me " and return " and return (Kail).. Presque Isle, Me. (via River and Rail) 7.60 II. 10 12.00 •5-75 2.75 1.00 2.00 4.00 9.90 6.60 7.00 9 25 Profile House, N.H ! 6.55 " and return 11. 10 91 8.80 14.50 7.10 10.10 6.50 11.00 9.00 •5-50 9.40 9.50 9.00 6.75 6.85 6.60 r TARIFF OF RATES. -Continued. DESTINATION. Pt. Du Chene, N.B. Fkom Boston. Unlimited.! Limited. Fkom Portland. Unlimited, Limited. and return. $8.00 513.50 ; $i»-h° 11.25 14-35 12.40 5.00 'siCo' 7-30 '93s 11.60 9--S 6.30 Pt. Hawkesbury, C.B \...\ i "-fio " and return j 18.95 Pt. Hastings ! i "-65 " and return ] 19.05 | kOBlilNSTON, Me , 6.00 " and return 9.00 Round Hill, X.S " and return SACKVILLE, N.B " and return Salisbury, N.B " and return Stewiacke, N.S " and return j 15.50 Straits Canso, N.S. (Pt. Hawksbury) . ■ " and return | 19.05 Summerside, P.E.I | " and return I 15.75 Sussex, N.B 1 " and return 1 1 . 00 Sydney, C.B. (all Rail) I " and return I9-7S , THOMPSON, N.S 8.85 i " and return 14.65 : Tracadie,N.S i : ii-'o Truro, N.S t o-^S " and return ; 14.65 ! WATERVH.LE, N.S I 7 5° " and return > 13.00 Wentworth, N.S I ! 8.85 " and return 14-65 1 Wevmouth, N.S | 6.65 Wh'ycocomaugh, C.B 14-00 Wilmot, N.S " and return. Windsor, N.S " and return. Wolfville, N.S " and return 14.00 j \VooQ-,tock, N.B. (via Calais) 8.75 j 7-oo YARMOUTH, N.S ' 9.<x> ; 8.co II. 10 «7-95 II. 15 18.10 5.50 8.00 6.75 10.00 6.80 11.40 9.00 15-50 11.10 17-95 12.50 10.00 12.00 18.75 8.85 14-50 10.85 9.50 15-50 7-50 11.50 9.00 14. So 7.88 $7 50 4-50 6.25 8. 10 12.05 14.00 6 95 "7-50 7-5° 7-45 10.55 8.50 14.00 8.50 12.30 8.25 7-9S 5.80 9.00 7.00 6! 80' 6.95 8.20 8.00 6.50 6.00 and return. ; 13.85 ii.75 9a "kom Portland. IMITED, Limited. i.50 I. 10 7'95 1.15 8.10 5-50 8 00 $7 50 4-50 6.75 0.00 1.40 9.00 5-5° 1. 10 7-95 6.25 8.10 0.00 5.80 8.75 8.8s 4- SO 0.8s 9.50 5-50 7-50 •■50 9.00 [4.80 7.88 9.00 7.00 6.80 7-45 10.55 8.50 14.00 8.50 12.30 8.2s 7-95 11.71; 6.95 8.20 8.00 6.50 6.00 MISCELLANEOUS TOURS. No. I. No. 2. No. 3. No. 4- No. 5- Nr 6. No, 7. No. 8. No. g. No. 10. No. II No. 12 Annapolis and Return. Boston to St. John by International S.S. Co.; .St. John to Ann.ipolis by liay of Fundy S.S. Co.; return same route. Antigonish, N. S., and Return. llostontoSt. John by International S.S. Co.; St. John to Antigomsh by Intcrcolo- nial R'y ; return same route. Calais, Me., and Return. ,,,. , ., . _ „ Hoslon to E.-.5ti)ort by International S.S. Co.; Kastport to Calais by brontier S.I.. Co. ; return same route. Campobello, N. B., and Return. Hoston to Kastport by International S.S. Co.; Kastport to Campobello by Canipo- bello S.r.. Co. ; return same route. Charlottetown, P. E. I., and Rettorii. Ho..ton to St. John by International S S. Co.; St. John -.o Point Du^Chene.by Inter colonial R'y; Point Du Chene to Siimmcrside by Charl • iL .- f'u^,\^,t»tn^ijn Uv P v.. I. R v; return s colonial ivy. luiui .... v-. .>...-..■•■■■■■•---■ --- Summerside to Charlottetown by P. K. 1. K y rlottetown Pteain Nav. Co. return same route. No. 13. No. 14. No. 15. No. 16. No. 17. No. 18. Charlottetown, P E. I., and Return. Boston to St John by International S.S. Co.; St. John to Pomt Du Chene by Inter- colonial K'y; Point Du Chene to Summerside by Charlottetown Steam Nav. Co , Sun mers¥e to Charlottetown by P. E. I. R'y; ^''f "''"X„"iM RV Halifax .0 lottetown Ste.->m Nav. Co.; Pictou to Halifax by Intercolonial Ky. Halitax to Boston by Canada Atlantic S.S. Line. Dieby, N. S., and Return. ^. , , „ , .. , Boston to St. John by International S.S. Co.; St. John to Digby by B.ay of Hindy S.S. Co. ; return same route. Eastport, Me., and Return. . Boston to Eastpo.t by International S.S. Co.; Eastport to Hoston by International *''^' ^°' Fort Fairfield and Return. ^ , . , „ , . Boston to St lohn by International S.S. Co.: St. John to Fredericton by Star Line sleamers; Fredericton to Fort Fairfield by Canadian Pacihc R'y; return same '■°"''' Halifax and Return. ,■ u n r Boston to St. John by International S.S. Co.; St. John to Annapolis by B.ay of Fundy S.S Co.; Annapolis to Halifax by Dominion Atlantic Ry; return same route. Halifax and Return. „ ,, , , , ., Boston to St. John by International S.S. Co.; St. John to H.alifax by Intercolonual R'y ; return same route. . _ . ' Ht. if ax and Return. , ,., ,^ , , , Boston to St. John by Internationai S.S. Co.; St. John to Halifax by ln'"™l™!f' rV: Halifax to'^Annapolis by Dominion , Atlantic Ry: Annapo is to St John by Bay of Fundy S.S. Co.; St. John to Boston by Internation.il S.S. Co.. or rice versa. Halifax and Return. „ ,, , , , ., BostontoSt.Joh„byIntern.atioii.-,lS.S Co.;.St. John to Halifax by Intercolonial R'y; Halifax to Boston by Canada Atlantic h.S. l.ine. .fil.oo 17.65 g.oo 8.50 •7-95 ao.35 Kentville and Return. i u u „f Boston to St. John by Intemation.al S.S. Co.; St. John, to Annapolis by Hay of Fundy S'S-! Co.; Annapolis to Kentville by Dominion Atl.inlic Ry; return same route. Montreal and Return. Boston to St. John by International S.S. Co.: St. John to Montreal by Intercolonial R'y Montre.al to Boston by Canadian Pacific R'y, via Newport. Montreal and Return. , , ,■ j- Boston to St. John by International S.S. Co.; St. John to Montreal by t-^nadian Pacific s'horrUne: Montreal to Boston by Canadian Pacific R'y, via 5,ewport. Mulgrave and Return. ■ , . i „ ,i Boston to St. John by International's.S. Co.; St. John to Mulgrave by Intercolonual R'y; return same route. Newcastle, N. B , and Return. , , , , Boston to St. John by International S.S. Co.; St. John to Newcastle by Intercolo- ni.il R'y ; return same route. 93 10.50 8.00 16.05 16.50 16.50 18.00 16.50 13.50 26,50 2650 18.75 15.40 MISCELLANEOUS TOURS.— Continued. No. 19. Pictou, N. S., and Return. $>S-7S lioslon 10 Si. John by Inlernalion.il S.S. Co.; St. John to Pictou by Intcrcoloni.il K'y ; rcmrn s.inie route. No. 30. Portland, Me., and Return. a.oo Hoston to Portland by International S.S. Co.; Portland to Hosloii by International S.S. Co. No. 21- Portland, Me., and Return. 4 00 lioston to Portland by International S.S, Co.; Portland 10 Hoston by lioslon ^ Maine R.K.; if limited ticket, $3.50. No. 22. Sidney, C. B., and Return. 23.75 lioston to St. John by International S.S. Co.; St. John to Mulgrave by Intercolonial R'y; Mufgr.ive to Sidney by Hras d'Or Lake S S. Co.; return same route. No. 23. Sidney, C. B., and Return. 19.75 lioston to St. John by lntern.->tional S.S. Co.; St. John to Sidney by Intercolonial k'y; return same route. No. 24. St. John and Return. 15.50 lioston to St. John by International S. S. CV ; St. John to lioston, all rail. No. 25. Summeriide, P. B. I., and Return. 15.75 Boston to St. John by International S.S. Co.; St. John to Point Du Chenc by Inter- colonial K'y; Point iJu Chene to Summerside by Charlottetown Steam Nav. Co.; return same route. No. 36. Truro, N. S., and Return. 14.05 Boston to St. John by International S.S. Co.; St. John lo Truro by Intercolonial R'y; return same route. No. 27. Three Province* Excuriion. 25.00 Boston to St. John by International S.S. Co.; St. John to Annapolis by B.ay of Kundy S.S. Co.; Annapolis to Halifax by Dominion Atlantic R'y; H.ilifax to Pictou by Intercolonial R'y; Pictou to Charlottetown by Charlottetown Steam Nav. Co.; Charlottetown to Summerside by P. E. I. R'y; Summerside to Point Du Chene by Charlottetown Steam Nav. Co.; Point Du Chene lo St. John by Inter- colonial R'y; St. John to itoston by International S. S. Co. Tins tour m.iy be reversed, if desired, at same rate. No. 38. WindKor and Return. i4-oo Boston to St. John by International S.S. Co. ; St. John to Annapolis by Bay of Fundy S.S. Co. ; Annapolis to Windsor by Dominion .Atlantic R'y; return same route. No. 29. Yarmouth, N. S., and Return. 13.85 Boston to St. John by International S.S. Co.; St. lohn to Digby by H.iy of Fundy S.S. Co. ; Digby to Yarmouth by Dominion Atlantic R'y; return same route. No. 30. Yarmouth, N. S., and Return. 1950 Boston to St. John by International S.S. Co. ; St. John to Digby by B.iy of Fundy S.S Co.; Digby to Yarmouth by Dominion Atlantic R'y; Yarmouth to Boston by Yarmouth S.S. Co. GENERAL INFORMATION TO PASSENGERS. Return Tickets are on sale to all principal points, and a large saving is made by purchasing the same. Staterooms and Meals.— Rooms may be engaged in advance upon application by letter or telegram to the local agents of the company. Stateroom berths are not sold by this company. Rooms are Si.oo, S1.50, and $2.00 each. There are also several bridal and family rooms on each steamer, varying in price from $3.00 to $4.00. Meals are served on the American plan, at the following prices : Breakfast or Supper, 50 cents; Dinner, 75 cents. Children's Tickets.— Children between the ages of five and rwelve, half fare ; under five, free. Redemption of Tickets. — In the purchase of tickets, passengers are reminded that any portion of a ticket not used will be redeemed at its value at the General Agent's Office, Boston, either by mail or upon personal application. This will apply to tickets issued by this company over its connections as well as over its own lines. Steamers' Landings. From Boston, the steamers of the St. John line leave the south side of Commercial Wharf. At 1'ortland, the steamers leave Rail- road Wharf, foot of State Street. At Eastport, the steamers of the Inter- national S.S. Co., the Campoljello steamer, the St. Croix River steamer for St. Andrews, Robbinston and Calais, land at same i)ier. At St. John, the com- pany's pier is at Reed's Point. 94 ntercolonial itcrnational liosion ^ niercolonial ■me. ntercolonial nc by Inler- » Nav. Co. ; ntercolonial by Hay of Halifax to :own Steam to Point Dii tin by Inter- lour may be ly of Fundy ame route. y of Fundy route. y of Fundy I to Boston $«5-7S z.oo 400 !i3-75 «9-75 IJ.50 15-7.5 14-65 35.00 14.00 13-85 19.50 ^GERS. saving is made m application by room berths are ;ach. There are ig in price from Eollowmg prices : velve, half fare ; rs are reminded its value at the jnal application, nections as well hn line leave the iiers leave Rail- :rs of the Inter- r steamer for St. . John, the com- Connecting Lines East of Boston. SPECIAI. NOTICE. The time-tables given below are substantially correct at the time this book goes to press. Changes mav, however, occur when the Summer .\rrangements of the lines go into effect, and passengers are respecttuUy referred to the official publications of the several lines, also to the Pathfinder Railway Guide, published at Boston monthly, and to the Traveller's Official Railway Guide, published monthly at New York, which contain time-tables of all lines in the United States and Canada. BOSTON & MAINE RAILROAD. — Trains leaving Boston at 12.30 P. M. (Eastern Division) and i. 00 P.M. (Western Division) connect with the steamers of the International Steamship Co. at Portland. Trains for Boston leave Port- land (Western Division) at 7.CX) A.M., 12.40 and 3.30 P.M., and ( on the Eastern Division) at 2.00 and 9.00 A.M., i.oo and 6.00 P.M. WESTERN DIVISION LOCAL TRAINS, FROM PORTLAND, For Old Orchard Beach, Saco, Biddeford, Kennebunk and intermediate stations, 7.00 A.M., I' 40, 3.30, 5.15 and 6.20 P.M. For Wells Beach, 7.00 A.M., and 3.30 and 5.15 P.M. For North Berwick, Great Falls and Dover, 7.00 A.M., 12.40, 3.30 and 5.15 P.M. For South Newmarket Junction, Exeter, Haverhill, Lawrence and Lowell, 7.00 A.M., 12.40 and 3.30 P.M. For Rochester, Farmington, Alton Bay and Wolfeboro, 12.40 and 3.30 P.NL For Manchester and Concord, 7.00 A.M., and 3.30 P.M. EASTERN DIVISION TRAINS Leave Portland at 2.00 A.M. for Boston ( night Pullman ), stopping at Biddeford, Kittery, Portsmouth, Newburyport, Ipswich, Salem and Lynn. Leave Portland for Boston and important way stations at 9.00 A.M. Leave Portland i.oo P.M. for Boston, stopping at way stations to Portsmouth. Leave Portland 8.45 A.M. for Cape Elizabeth. Leave Portland at 6 P.M. (express for Boston), stopping only at principal points. BOOTHBAY, MOUSE AND SQUIRREL ISLANDS. — (Twenty-five miles.) (Eastern Steamboat Co.) Steamers leave Bath, Me., daily (except Sunday). 95 _ L CONNKCTING LINES KAST OF ISOSTON - Cc////««t'./. BAY OF FUNDY STEAMSHIP CO.— (Foit\ five miles.) (St. John, Digby, Nova Scotia Line.) Steamers, iluring July and August, leave St. John every day (except Sunday) at 7.30 A.M., local St. John time, for Digby, connect\ig for all parts of Western Nova Scotia. Returning, leave Digby same afternoon, arriving at St. John about 5.00 P.M. BAY DE CHALEUR, N. B. — Steamer " Admir.il " leaves Dalhousie (north shore of N. 15.) every Wednesday and Saturday morning for (;asi)e, N.H., calling at intermediate ports. Returning, leaves Gaspe Monday and Thursday mornings. CAMPOBBLLO STEAMBOAT CO. — (One and one-half miles.) Steamers of the Ferry companies for the island of Campobello leave E.istport at frequent intervals during the day. THE BRAS D'OR STEAM NAVIGATION CO., Limited. Steamer " Marion" leaves Sydney at 9.00 A.M., North Sydney at 10.00 A.M., Mondays and Thursdays, for St. Peter's Canal, calling at New Campbellton, Hig Bras d'Or, Boularderie, Baddeck, Grand Narrows and Irish Cove, connecting with the "Blue Hill" at St. Peter's for Mulgrave. Returning, leaves St. Peter's Canal, Tuesday and Friday mornings for Sydney, calling at the above-named points, and calling at Whycocomagh and Little Narrows Friday. Leaves Sydney 3.00 P.M., North Sydney 4.00 P.M., Tuesdays for Whycocomagh ; leaves Whycocomagh Wednesday morning for Sydney. Steamer "Blue Hill" leaves Mulgrave daily (Sunday excepted) after arrival of train from the west, for Grandique and St. Peter's, connecting with "Marion" Mon- day and Thursday evenings for Sydney and above points. Steamer " May Queen " leaves Baddeck, morning and evening, for Grand Nar- rows, connecting with express train to and from Sydney and Point Tupper. Leaves Grand Narrows Tuesdays, after arrival of train from Sydney, for Big Pond and East Bay, and Wednesdays and Fridays for Irish Cove. Steamer " Peerless " makes four trips daily between Sydney and North Sydney. FRONTIER STEAMBOAT CO. — (Thirty miles.) (Eastport, St. Andrews, Robbinston, Calais — opp. St. Stephen.) Steamer "Rose Stan- dish " runs in regular connection with the steamers of the International Steamship Co. from Eastport, touching the above-named points on the St. Croix River. GRAND TRUNK RAILWAY. — For Auburn and Lewiston, 7.10 and 8.00 A.M., 1. 10, 1.30 .ind 5.15 P.M. For Gorham, N.H., 8.00 A.M., 1.30 and 5.15 P.M. For Montreal and Chicago, 8.00 A.M., and 1.30 P.M. SHORE LINE RAILWAY. — ( Between St. John, St. George and St. Stephen. N. B. ) Trains leave Carleton ( ferry from St. John) daily (Sundays excepted ) at 7.50 A.M. INTERCOLONIAL RAILWAY. — Trains of this road leave St. John morning and afternoon for Moncton, Campbellton, Amherst, Truro, Halifax, and all important stations on main line both north and south of Moncton. For hours of leaving, see official time-cards. 96 ■MMtiMIM inueJ. s.) (St. John, , leave St. John gbv, coiinect'iig same afternoon, aves Ualhoiisie or Gasi)e, N.H., ■ and Thursday )ne-half miles.) ive Eastport at lited. Steamer [., Mondays and Hig Bras d'Or, with the " Blue Canal, Tuesday ;s, and calling at 00 P.M., North agh Wednesday after arrival of " Marion " Mon- for Grand Nar- I'upper. Leaves • Big I'ond and 1 North Sydney. (Eastport, St. ler " Rose Stan- tionat .Steamship oix River. dston, 7.10 and A.M., 1.30 and 3eorge and St. daily (Sundays leave St. John , Halifax, and all . For hours of CONNKCTING LINKS i;Asr OK liOSToX — t'.v/// ////,■,/. LUBECAND EASTPORT FERRY. —(Three miles.) Kerry steamers leave Eastport for Kubcc at fre(|iient intervals day and evening. LUBEC AND MACHIAS STAGE. — ( Twenty-eight miles.) Leaves Liil>ec daily for Machias. Returning, leaves Maeliias daily for Luliee. MAINE CENTRAL RAILWAY.— Trains leave Portland as follows : K<«r Aiihurn and Lewisloii, 8.30 A.M., 1.15 and 5.10 P.M. Lewisttm, via Brnnswiek, 7.00 A.M., 5.05 and 11.00 l'..M. Kor liath, 7.15 A.M., 1.20, 5.05 and 11.00 P.M. Kocklar.d and Knox & Lincoln Railroad, 7.15 A.M., and 1.20 and 11.00 P.M. Brunswick, Gardiner, Hallowell and Augusta, 7.15 A.M., 1.20, 5.05 and 11.00 P.M. Farmington, via Lewiston, -S.30 A.M., and 1.15 P.M.; via Bruns- wick, 1.20 P.M. Monmouth, Wiothrop, Lake Maranacook, Readficld, Oakland and North Anson, 1.15 P..NL Waterville ami Skowheg.in, via Lewiston, 1.15 P.M.; via Augu.sta, 6.40 A.M., i.co, 1.20 and 11.30 P.M. Belfast and De.xter, 1.15, 1.20 and 11.00 P.M. Bangor, via Lewisttm, 1.15 P.M.; via Augusta 1.20 and 11.00 P.M. Ellsworth and Bar Ilarlior, 1.20, 11.00 I'.M. Vanceboro", St. Stephen (Calais) Aroostook County, St. John, Halifax and the Provinces, 1.20, 11.00 P.M. WHITE MOUNTAINS LINK. — For Cumberland Mills, 8.45 A.M., 1.25 and 5.55 P.M. For .Sebago Lake, 8.45 A.M., 1.25 and 5.55 I'.M. For Bridgton, 8.45 A.M. and 1.25 P.M. Fryeburg, North Conway, Glen Station, Crawfords, and Fabyans and Montreal, 8.45 A.M., and 3.30 P.M. Jefferson and Lancaster, 8.45 A.M. and 3.30 P.M. NOVA SCOTIA CENTRAL RAILWAY.— Trains of this railway connect at Middletown (1). A. R'y) ft)r New Germany, Lunenburg, Bridgewater, Malonc Bay, and other points on South Shore, including Liverpool. CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY. — (St. John to Fredericton, Grand Falls, Vanceboro', St. Stephen, St. Andrews, etc.) Trains leave St. John for Fredericton, St. Stephen, St. Andrews, lloulton, Bangor, etc., at 6.10 and 8.55 A.M. For Fredericton at 4.40 P.M. For St. Stephen, St. Andrews, Houlton, Bangor, etc., at 8.30 P. M. PORTLAND AND NEW YORK LINE. — (Three himdred and forty miles.) ( Maine Steamship Co.) Steamers leave Portland for New York, calling at Martha's Vineyard, every Monday, Wednesday and Saturday at 6 P.M. Returning, leave New York every Monday, Wednesday and Saturday at 5 P.M. PORTLAND AND BOOTHBAY LINE.— Steamer leaves Portland Tuesdays and Saturdays at S.oo A.M., for Squirrel Island, Boothbay, Heron Island, South Bristol and East Boothbay, and for Pematiuid every Thursday at 8.00 .V.M. Returning, leave Boothbay every Monday and Thursday at*8.oo A.M. for Portland pnd intermediate points. Also leaves Pemaquid for Portland Fridays at 7.00 .\.M. MT. DESERT AND MACHIAS LINE. — The new steamer, "Frank Jones," makes tri-weekly trips between Rockland, Bar Harbor and Machiasport; leaving Kockland Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays at 6.00 A.M., and returning from Machiasport, Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. 97 C'0.\Nt:cTIN(; LINKS KAST oK IIOSTON — CV////««.</. PORTLAND & ROCHESTER RAILROAD. — Trains leave I'ditl.iiul as I'dHows : For WorccsUr, < linton, Ayer Junction, Nasinia, Windliam anil Kppin^ at 7.30 A.M. antl li.jol'.M. Kor Manchester, Concord and points north at 7.30 A..M. and IJ.30 I'.M. For Rochester, Springvale, Alfred, Waterboro' and .Saco Kivcr at 7.30 A.M., 12.30 and 5.30 P.M. For (Jorhani at 7.30 and 045 A.Nf., 12.30, 3.00, 5.^,0 and 6.20 I'.M. Foi Westbrook (Saccarappa), Ciimberiand Mills, Westbrook Junction and Woodford's at 7.30 and 9.45 A.M., 12.30, 3.00, 5.30 aiul 6.20 l'..M. PORTLAND & BOSTON STEAMERS. — ( One hundred and ten miles.) (Portland Steam Packet Co.) Leave Portland at 7.00 P.M. daily e.\cept Sunday. Returning, leave Boston 7.00 p.m. daily, e.vcept Sunday. In summer, special Sruiday evening trips arc made in both directions. CHARLOTTETOWN STEAM NAVIGATION CO.— Steamers of this line form a daily connection (except Sunday) to and from Point du Chene and Summerside. Arrangement of steamers is such as to connect with I. C. R'y train to and fron\ St. John. This line also runs daily (except Sunday) to and from Pictou and Charlottetown, forming direct connection to and from Halifa.v. STAR LINE STEAMER leaves Indiantown at 9.00 A.M. weekdays. Re- turning, leaves P'redericton at 8. A..M. week-days. DOMINION ATLANTIC RAILWAY. — Trains leave Yarmouth daily (e.\cept Sundays) for all points between Yarmouth and Ilalila.x. «L ,;S TT" illlhllli d. ins leave I'ditlaiul ulluun aiut Kjtpin^ ints north at 7.30 lcrl)i)ro' anc' Saco ;o and 045 A.^f., oiiml)ciiaiul Mills, ,30, 3.00, 5.30 ami iiuiKircil and ten 3 r.M. daily except iday. In summer, — Steamers of tills oint (hi Ciiene and ivitli I. C. R'y train nday) to and from 1 Halifax. I. weeiv-da\> K ve Yarmoutli daily Connecting Rail Lines out of Boston. TlinOlKill TKAIN9-srB.IK<T TO IHANtiK. Mnriiini; tniins ami ilii; I J. 10 ami I .u«> P.M. trains amiiLci at I'drtlaiul witli stfaniurs. i\ti Ni) transfer ilurinu the Siiinmer. Boston & Maine Railroad— Kastern Division. 1 nr POK ri..\M'-7V'anil .;.oo .A.M., 1230 ami 7..K) P.M. " WHllE .MOl NIAiNS-7..i;o.\..M., .i.jo P. .M. Boston & Maine Railroad— Western Pivision. Kiir l'()Rl'l..\NI)— S jo.\.M., u.joaml i-4i l'^'- Boston & Maine Railroad— .'^niiiliern Division. I'nr MONTKK.M., P. (J.— via Ctnlral VeriiiDnt Kailruail— y.oo ami 11. ju .\..M.,ancl 7.J0 P„M. • • " " —via Canadian Pacific Railway— 9.00 .\.M. • WIIITK MOUNTAINS-9.00 A.M. Bokton & Maine Railroad— Central Mass. Division. I'or HLllSON, \V.\KE ami NORTH.AMPK »J-3.i5 .A.M., 1.30 ami .(.41' I'-M- Boston & Albany Railroad F(ir NEW Y()KK-9.t» ami 11.00 A.M., 4.00 ami 11.00 P..\I. -• " .M-P.ANY— 5.00, 3. JO, 10.30 .itnl ii.ouA.M., 2.00 ami 7.15 P..M. " THE WEST— 1030 A.M., 2. CO anil 7.15 P.M. Fitchburg Railroad— Hoosac Tunnel Route. F(ir MONTREAI., P. 1^).- via Central Vermont Kailn).->cl— 8.00 ami 10.30 A.M , ami 7.00 I'.M. " TKOV, N. v.— 6.45, y.oo ami 11.30 .A..M., 3.00 antl 7.00 P.M. " THE WEST— 3. no ami 7.00 P.M. " ' New York & New England Railroad. i'or NEW Y( -KK-S.jo A.M., 12.00 noon, 3.00 and 3.30 P.M. '« " *' —via Sound Steamer — 600 P.M. New York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad. For NEW YORK.— via Fall River l.ine-6.00 P.M. " " —via Shore Line; all rail— lu.oo and 10.03 A.M., i.oo, 3 00, 3.00 and 12.00 P.^^. .1 " " —via Providence l.ine—Opens in Jnne — 6.30 P..M. " " " —via Stnnington Line— 6 30 P.M. Boston and Portland by Daylight. (Omitted during Snminer S chedule .) RATES. Boston to Portland, Me .... " Auburn, Me .... " Augusta, .Me.... Hath, Me lielfast, Me " Pirunswick, Me . •' Crawford House, New Hampshi " Fabyans, N. H " Farniington, Me. Glen House, N. H Gorham, N. H " CJardiner, Me Hallowell "" " I.ewisU'1, Me Mon'.eil, P. Q . ... Montreal, P. Q " Worth Conway, N. H Old Orchard, N. H •' Poland Springs, Me *' Skowheaan, Me " Waterville, Me " m- Steamers do not make the d.iy trip between Boston and Portland" from July 1 to September : 99 ,:: I gfMSiiam _ 1. Stage Conner .ions. Ai Amiikksi- with triweekly Sta.ucs for I.imlfn and Tij;nish. M SHn.KNA.'Al.iK vvitl. Sta,,cs .laiiy for Mai.lan.l, ( lav". Kivu a.ul .M.>s.,uo,lo1.it. iri weekly for Stuet llarl.oiir, ami on Saturdays for Kennutcook ami Noel. A. Woyv.wv.l. with Stewart's Sta^e Line for Springvillc. Ilridueville, St. I'ai.!, Uoper and Lower Caledonia, Sniillilield and Melrose. At TRlRO, daily, with Stages for Clifton, Ulaek Roc k and Maitland.and tri-weekly for Karltown and West I'.ianeh Kivei John. At London. .KKKY with Stages for Aeadia Iron .Mines. Great Village, Keonotny ami Five Islands. At SllKDl.AC with Stages to and from Cocigne and Bnctouche. At ILvRfoUKTwith Stages for Kichibucto, Kingston, and other places on North Shore. At NKW.ASll.K with tri-w.ekly Stages for Ued liank and Whitneyville. Cape Breton Connections, 1895. Intercolonial trains run through from Mulgravc to Grand Narrows and Sydney. At the time of going to press full particulars of navigation lines had not been received, the summer time-tables of local railways will give full particulars. Steamers of the Hras d'Or Navigation Co. connect with trains of Intercolonial Railway at Mulgrave, for Svdnev, calling at Grandi<iue Ferry, St. Peter's, Grand Narrows, ^Haddeck and Boularderie Islands. Returning, leave Sydney for above points connecting at Daddeck with steamers for Whycocomagh, Little Narrows and Little Bras d'Or. Steamship "Ramouski" will leave Mulgrave .mi arrival of east-bound train, for Arichat. Canso. and Port Hood, and on two days per week for Guysboro. Returning from above points following mornings, so as to connect with west- bound trains. 100 ■itiaMib ami Miisiiuoilobit, oiik Hiul Noel. igfviiic, St. r.ui:, iiul.aiul tri-wcekly Villagf, r.cciniimy r places cm North ifvvillc. 95- ws aiul Sydney. lines hail not been full particulars. ns of Intercolonial Ferry, St. Peter's, ning, leave Sydney for Whvcoconiagh, ast-boiind train, for ,cek for Gnyshoro. connect with west- Th« n«w Hot Aberdeen, recently opened, was Inadvertently omitted from the list of St. John Hotels. Their advertisement may be found elsewhere In this book. -Itr-- Ciiv UK I'cm. Namk l>l- lIcTHl.. Amher-i, N. S.. AiiiKipolU, N. S. Aylesfiml, N. S... li.i.l.lc.:k,C. H.... lictwi. k, N. S. . llri>l)'ctown, N. S. l;ilai*, Me. Cainimlicllo, N. 11 nalliniiMc. N. II... Pigby, N. Kiisipiirl, Mc- Kreilerictiin, N. H. (iram' N.irrows, (.' Halifax, N.S. ... Kcniville, N. S... Kingston, N. S .. I „iwrencetown, N lailwc. Me MIdilleton.N. S.. Moncton, N. B... New Glasgow, N. loint Hastings, C Portland, Me St. Andrews, N. H St. John, N. H ... Summerside, P. K, Truro, N. S, Walerville, N. S.. Weymonth, N. S.. Windsor, N. S. . . . , . IVrraie Hi>tcl Aniliursl Hotel .. I'lifldii lliiiKi' Anieriran Hniisi' ..■ I'linnnercial House. .. Ayloforil llmise.... .. 'I'elegr:i|)ll llou-e.... .. French Villa .. tirand t'enirai •• • Revere House .. Border lily Hotel... St. L'roix Kxchange. .AnieriL-an House.... . . Ty'n-y-roed . .. Inch .\rran House. .. Muri)hy's Hotel ... , .. Myrtle House Royal Hotel Short's Hotel Ilurnhani House OiKhy Hotel . .. Ouoildy House ... Barker House (^)ueen Hotel .1!. • . .. Oueen Hold ■ Halifax Hotel ... Mcl.eo<rs Kentville House.... Porter House Revere House American House. . . Victoria Hotel.... .. Kingston House.... S. Kim House V.illey House . . Merchant's Hotel . . Hillside House ,. American House... ,, Brunswick House Commercial House. ^ . Vendome B. ; Caledonia Hotel .... ... Falmouth Hotel . . . . , United States ! Preble House iCity Hotel i Kt. Julian Hotel.... Algonquin Puflerin [ Victoria i Koy.tl •••••,. I New Victoria Belmont Queen ;. I. Clifton House Hotel Russ Pr. of Wales Hotel Victoria Hotel .•••■ Learment Hotel.... rUOl'UMilllK. N. C. Calhoun (ieo. Ml Fariane Wm. M.lelland.... Mrs. I. H. M. leod. Mrs. "1. H. Salter.... M. N". Craves J. Oiuilap Mrs. Vaughan W. I. ( ilenrn)ss Mrs. Russell 1). M. (lardnei J. K. I'uran \. ('•. Hamilton Write Manager 'I'hos. .Murphy J. I.'. Morrison I. Daley Airs. M. Short ■ Xirs. J. Burnham... Nliss Smith Kenney & liucknam. F. B. Coleman J, \. FUiwartls McDougallA McNeill A. B. Sher.ilon H. Hesslein D. McLeotI J.as. Lyons Rufus I'ortcr Mrs. W. Redilcn.... J. Mcintosh ]C. E. Farren R. E. Davidson !A. I'. I'hinncy jN. H. I'hinncy Wolfville, N. S. Avon House Victoria Hotel Windsor House . . . Acadia House Centr.al Hotel Wolfville House... Kent Lodge American House.. , I). Peind.al . Cico. McSweeney.. . 1). McDearmid !:j.K!*Maiii'i! !!!."! ■ rt'oss & O'Connor. . . . IM. .^. (Jibson V. H. Sweet . W. R. Underwood.. Albert Miller . F. .A. Jones .il). W. McConnick . Thos. F. Riiymcnd. . |J. I.. McCloskey... . John Sime .,). C. Rickie E. Mawley . J. B. Russ Mrs. A. 1.. McKenzie . N. A. Ross.. . A. H. Learment W. H. Risteen • . . Forbes Jones . John Cox • Thos. Doran . Thos. Gibson .J. L. Franklyn... • . Mrs. C. R. tJuin.... . H. I). Farrell . Mrs. Haliburton .J.W.Harris 3.< .(o ao i8 >5i loo 50 50 40 130 300 18 30 38 32 16 13 18 8 8 50 50 'i SO 30 ....] 350' 150. 138 86 50 200 50 681 761 50 331 39 1 30 '.S 45 i 33 20 II «4 3.50 to 4.00 t.SO 3.,H1 1.5.1 I 50 1.50 1.50 2.00 to 3.t» 3.00 to 3.50 ■J. 00 to 3.50 1 .^o to 3.00 •J.CVI to J. 00 a.iKi to 4.00 1.50 1.50 1.25 1 .00 1.35 1.35 1. 00 1.35 1.00 a. 00 1.50 to 2.00 1.50 3.00 to 3.00 1.50 to 2.00 Special. 1 .00 2.00 to 4.00 2.00 to 2.50 2.50 to 3.00 2.00 to 2.50 1 .00 to 3.00 3.00 to 5.00 3.00 3.00 to 3 50 I 3-°° I 3.00 I 3-°o 3. 00 1.50 I 50 1.50 1.50 1. 00 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.35 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.25 1.35 S|iecial. C).0" 7.1K1 to 10. IX) 5.00 to 7.o'> ^.(•o to 7. '."I j.ooto 7.K1 5.00 to 7.'"' Special. 10.00 to 14. uo 10.00 to i4.t>o 7.00 to 10.00 10.50 to 16. CO lo 00 to 16.00 Special. 5.00 S'oo 3.00 i 5.00 I 5.00 i 4-00 3.50 7.00 to 10 00 7.00 to 10.00 j 5,00 and 6.00 Special. 4.00 to 5.00 10.00 and up. io.c)o and up. ecial. Spec 15.00 .and up. Special. 5.i» 6.00 Special. 7 00 7.00 7.00 Speci.ll. 5.00 to 7.C Special. 6 00 Special. 6.00 Special. 5.00 lOl I -, I _ It 1^: irt^V^'rW^^ I THE RHINE OF AMERICA -_-__:!._ T^IVBK SAINT JOHN. ST. JOHN. FREDERICTON mud WOODSTOCK. FARE: FREDERICTON, $1.00. FREDERICTON TO WOODSTOCK, $1,50. . THROUGH TICKET, $2.00. , Inlil further iioiici:, one of tlii: uplcniliil Mail Stuvmkks of ilii» line will leave INDIANTOWN FOR FREDERICTON, Anil full riiii-iliat,- /.iiiiiiiiigi, Kvcry morning (Siiml.iyi exccpleil) al nine o'clock (local time), ami will leave FREDERICTON FOR ST. JOHN (INDIANTOWN), And liileriiiiiiiiilr l.iiiniitigs, Kvery morning (Simd.iy* excepted) at eight o'clock (local time), due at Indianlowii al three v.s\. Leave FREDERICTON FOR WOODSTOCK, Tueiilayi, Thuridjy*, and Saturdays at nix a.m. Return alternate day», leaving .}, WocxUtnck nt eight a.m. -- ; CONNECTIONS ARE MADE WITH TRAINS OF THE CMHiDIMN PACIFIC RM ILWiY, FoK Woodstock, Ahoostock, Ckanh Fau.s, Ed.mindston. kti'. CMHADA EASTERN JiAILWMY. For Uoaktown, Chatham, ktc, and with STEAMERS OF THE IHTERMATIORAL STEAMSHIP CO. FoK AND rHOM PoKTl.ASD, HosTdS, AND OTHKK POINTS IN THK UNlTttD STATES AND CANADA, THEOCOH TieSKS, SltTSLX A»D 8ITCr.iI, 138UID TO ALL 8IATI0H8 AT 8FICIAL USUCIB SATIS. Connections made with the electrics of "St. John City Railway," which run to and from steamboat landing. Fare only five cents to any point in St. John or Portland on their route. For further information, see folder with map of River, to be obtained at offices of the iNTKKNATioNAi. Stkamship Co,, .It railroad stations and at hotels. Geo. F. Baird. Manager. Head Office at Star Line Wharf, Indiantown, ■ - ST. JOHN, N.B, PORTLAND STEAM PACKET CO. I<INK OF FXRST-CX^ASS STEiliMFKS BOSTON AND PORTLAND. /^NE of the steamers — Porii.and or Trkmont — will leave India ^^ Wharf, lioston, for Portland, every evening at 7.00 p.m. (except Siuidays), connecting, on arrival, with Maine Central, Knox & Lincoln, (Irand Trunk, and Portland iV Rochester Railroads, and with steamers for points on coast of Maine. Direct and desirable route to Lewiston, Auburn, Bangor, and all points East and North. Through tickets at low rates. Leave Portland for Boston every evening at 7.00 o'clock (except Sundays), connecting, on arrival, with the earliest trains on all diverging lines. Sunday trips from middle of June to middle of September, leaving each port at 7.00 p.m. This line affords a most desirable route to the Rangeley Lakes, through by daylight from Portland. The standard route for comfort and pleasure to Lewiston, Poland Springs, Mount Desert, Bethel, (Jorham, N.H., North Conway, Crawford's, Fabyan's, itc. Close con- nections at Portland with all diverging lines, and through tickets to points North antl East. J. B. COYLE. Manager. J. F. LISCOMB, Gen. Agent and Treas. C. F. WILLIAMS, Agent, India Wharf, Boston. f GENERAL OFFICES: PORTLAND, MAINE. :et CO. VIEKS .AND. ill leave India oo P.M. (except Jiox iV Lincoln, A with steamers ite to Lewiston, ough tickets at at 7.00 o'clock rliest trains on tember, leaving angeley Lakes, ite for comfort Desert, Bethel, tc. Close con- 3Ugh tickets to jent and Treas. \n. AINE. MAINE STEAMSHIP COMPANY. TRI-WKEKLY LINE BETWEEN PGRiLANDiNEWYORK. I^^l^:;?!!^^' 9MiBL'V1.0W,—m%S, f>tE\N MANHATTRN,!sTEfli»isHips^ 2.000 TONS. i COTTAGE CITY, 2,000 TONS. Leave Franklin Wharf, Portland, every Tuesday, Thursday and .Saturday at 6.00 p.m. Leave Pier 38, East River, New York, every Tuesday, Thurs- day and Saturday at 5.00 p.m. T/w Steamers touch in each direction at Cotta^^e City, Martha^s Vineyard. pafes (in Statepooms). Between Portland and New York $5-co Round Trip Tickets 8.co Between Portland or New York and Martha's Vineyard 400 Round Trip Tickets from Portland or New York to Martha's Vineynrd and Return, 7.00 MEALS EXTRA. Freight received and forwarded to and from all points .South and West of New York and East of Portland. For Freight or Passage apply to J. F. USCOMB, GenTal Agent, HORATIO HALL, Agani, ofkice: fkanklin whakf, Portland. hfuce: tier 38, east kiver, nf.w york. J. B. COYLE, Hanagor, Portland, HI: To NOVA SCOTIA vit ST. JOHN, N. B. AM) TIIK DRYoF pUNDY g TERMSHIP Q OIPANY (LiiMrrET).) '• o o TIIK I'inc Iron Sttamer " City of Monticello " runs legiihu!;, in conneLtion with International Steamship Co. lutwccn St. John and Digby, tlicie connecting with th" Western Counties Railway for Yarmouth and points West. From Digby the steamer proceeds to Annapolis, sixteen miles, through one of the most picturesque rivers in North America, connecting with the Windsor & A.^napolis Railway, which traverses the far-famed "Land of Evangeline " to Halifax and points East. t'onneclion matle at St. John with the "All Kail Line" to llangor, Portland, and Boston, with the Steamers of tlie International Steamship Co. to Eastport, I'ortland and Boston, with Canadian Pacific for Montreal, Intercolonial to Moncton, Quebec, etc., the Crand Southern U. R. for St. George and St. Stephen, Canadian Pacific to Bangor and points West, and the New York, Maine, and New Brunswick Steamship Company. © © . ■ PROPOSED SAILINGS 1894. Jniiuary aiul Pfbruary. From St. John, Wedncsd.iy and Satiird,-iy. From Annapolis and Digby, Wednesday and Saturday. Harrh niid April. From St. Jcihii, Monday, Wednesday and Saturday. From Annapolis and Digby, Monday, Wednes- day and Saturday. May. From St. John, Monday, Wednesd.iy and Fri- day. From Annapolis and Digby, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturd.iy. June. From St. John, Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and !• riday. From .Annapolis and I 'igby, Tuesday, Wednes- day, Thursday and Saturday (until 2olh, when daily trips will be made.) July and August. From St. John, daily trips (Sundays excepted). From Annapolis and Digby, daily tri|is (Sim- days excepted). Septriuber. From St. John daily until 9th. Italance of Month. From St. John, Monday, Wednesday, Thurs- day, Friday. From Annapolis and Digby, Tuesday, Wednes- day, Thursday and Saturday. October. F'rom St. John, Monday, Wednesday and Friilay. From Annapolis a'>d Digby, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. NoTcmber and Decembt -. From St. John, Monday, Wednesday and Sat- urday. From Annapolis and Digby, Monday^ Wednes- day and Saturday. TROOP & SON, St. John, N. B., Managers. . • © AGS-ENTS. CHAS. M. L. TROOP, St. John, N. It. H. P. SHORT, Digby, N. S. I. S. CARDER. Annapolis, N. S. B. mm in connection Digby, there armouth and sixteen miles, ecting witli tiie d "Land of Igor, Portland, o. to Kasti)ort, ial to Moncton, ihen, Canadian >e\v lirunswick undays excepted), daily trips (Sun- daily until 9th. ednesday, 'I'hurs- Fiiesday, Wednes- day. lesday and Friday, 'uesday, Thursday ;dnesday and Sat- Monday, Wednes- [ers. CARDER, nnnpoIU, N. S. FRONTIER STEAMBOAT COMPANY. ^.^.^.^.^.M..M..^.^ 1895-SUMMER ARRANGEMENT— 1895. 44 ROSE STANDISH" Leave-s Calais every morning (Sundays excepted) touching at Robbinston and St. Andrews. Connecting at Eastport with the "International Steamers " for St. John, Portland and Boston. Ferry at Eastport for Lubec and Campobello. Stage at Lubec for Machias. Stage at Eastport for Pembroke. RETURNING, leave Eastport about noon, or on arrival of International Steainer, touching at St. Andrews and Robbinston. Connecting at Calais with St Croix and Penobscot R'y ior Princeton and Grand Lake Streams. Canadian Pacific R'y for Hamilton and Woodstock. Shore Line Railway for St. George. For further inforniation see weekly time cards, or apply to following local agents : JOHN PENDLEHURG, Agent, Sr. Aniirews, N.H. A. H. LEAVITT, Agent, EAsri'ORT, Me. JAS. L. THOMPSON, ^f.inager, Calais, Maine. The Dufferin, - - ST. John, N.B. DOOIH BV THE SEAT THE ONLY IIOTEI. IN THK rROVINCKS HAVING (iKOUNDS FOR RECK HAT ION AND OI'EN-AIR CONCERTS. Strictly First Class. New Management. - - - - - New Heating (hot water). Thoroughly Renovated and Improved for Business or Pleasure. The Most Conveniently Situated Hotel in the City. The Cuisine is under the management of E. M. Trek, a Club Steward and Hotel Man of twenty-two years' experience. TERMS $2.00 to $3.00. AMERICAN PLAN. E. LK ROI WILLIS, Proprietor. N.B. (JUOUNDS <TS. /VATER). • Pleasure. City. VI. Trek, a twenty-two «!ta«ia.-«»^-.:',-ja«M;>«r<>i PL/fN. >r. T Y'N-Y-COED HOTEL, :-: :-: CAMI'0HI':LL0 ISLAND. :-: :-: THIS ATTRACTIVE SUMMER RESORT WILL BE OPEN FROM JUNE 2m TO SEPTEMBER 30th. effo-^TV^fiS \ (otitic The Hotel, with its annex, is pleasantly situated near the water's edge, on a bluff seventy-five feet ai)ove the level of the sea. It is provided with all the comforts of a refined home, and beautifully furnished throughout. Access mav be had bv the fine steamers of the International Steamship Com- pany, leaving Commercial Wharf, lioston, during July and August, every Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday at s P.M., and Portland, Wednesday and Saturday at S •'•M- Connection can be made with the latter steamers by taking the 12.30 or I 00 P.M. trains on Boston & Maine Railroad, "Eastern and Western Divisions." For other Time-Tables of the Company see first pages this book. Baggage checked through to Campobello. Applications for Rooms for the Season of 1895 may be made, until fune 20th, to lOHN A. SHERLOCK, 1 '^^ ^^Tn^rnM"" ^'''""'' HOTF.L AliHOTSFORl), I BOSTON. Post-Office and Telegraph Address, TY'N-Y-COED, EASTPORT, Maine. Royal Hotel, ST. JOHN, N. B. KING STREET. RAYMOND £ DOHERTY. Prophietoks. ?TK Kill-- Strc^et. S'l\ JOIIX. N.li. D. LU. IVIeCORlVIACK, Proprietor. •I^e Q6odd^, # « 5}J ICASTPOW'l*. Ml A NEW HOTEL WITH ALL MODERN IMPROVEMENTS. Steam Heat, Electric IJfrhts, Bath Rooms, Etc. TIllC LARC.KST HOTKL IN KASTKKN MAIN!:. T. H. BUCKMAN, Proprietor. B. W. BOWMAN, Clerk. 1,, IS, m^imMMAW & CO., -« COAL DEALERS, ^ WHARVES AND BRANCH OfFIOta: 144 Charles St. and Sfrtt St. (.finirtiuii af Ma».'<achii.-<iUK An-.,) lioKtmi. f/ J.J J I ill. Wanhinijton Ai^f.nwlGranHf^M.^ Sii. Huston. Ct I-* J X. ^,^,^ Urhlif Street, KuM Cdmhrhlije. 86 STATE STREET BOSTON & GLOUCESTER BOSTON. # STEAMBOAT f OMPANY. FOR FREIGHT AND PASSENGERS. M.iking Connection with all Railroad and Steamship Lines out of Hoston. 'l hmugh Uates and Bills oir Lading Given to all points West and South. Steamers Leave liosli.n ami Cloucesier Daily During the Year, Sundays Excepted. See Daily papers for Thiie-Tablt. HCNRY M. WHITNEY. PmmaiomNT. E. S. MERCHANT, Trbas. and Agent, BOSTON. ABBOTT COFFIN, Agent, GLOUCESTER. r. Mi:. EMENTS. JAIN!:. , Proprietor. CO., '.,) Ihisliiii. lOSTON. PANY. :s. Ihriiugh Rates e Itostim a\u\ ;STER. jlRPISTROIIIi pHKSFEB (jOPIPIIIIY. Tlt€' carriafTi's of this Company will he in waiting on the arrival of the steamers of the INTERNATIONAL STEAMSHIP COMPANY at B oston to t ransfer pass- engers to all connecting lines of steam- boats and railroads, and also to hotels and private residences. J. V. Fletcher & Sons, 66, 68, 70 A 72 Faneui/ Hall Market. . - - DIRECT RECEIVERS OF - - - SWIFT'S WESTERN DRESSED BEEF, PORE AND UMB. Ilotc-lx iincl Sti'iiiiii<)il|ii> Hii|i|>llril. I'lirvfyom for till' Intkiinatiiinai, Htkamniiii* Co. CORTICELLI SILK. Prudent purchasers save time and mental friction by careful discrimiuaiion in their 5elt:ction of sewing materials. This group shows Silk, Hutton-Hole Twist and Worsted Koll Draid, each bearing the name Curticelli, which if a guarantee of excel- lence. The reputation of this brand has been secured by 55 years of effort, attended by un- interrupted success. With this name on Silk, Twist and liraid, all of one shade to match the garment and each other, no thoughtful buyer hesitates. NONOTUCK SILK CO., 18 Suminer Street, Boiton, Mais. Ask /or Cortiielli Sil/c and Braiti ami see that yoii get it. ;W.: ONE OF THE OLDEST OF THE BEST :V MOST POPULAR AND RELIABLE Judson & Co.'s personally conducted parties leave BOSTON EVERY TUESDAY AT 3.00 P.M. r-'OR KANSAS. COLORADO. OREGON. WASHINGTON, CALIFORNIA AND ALL POINTS WEST. New Upholstered Pullman Tourist Sleeping Cars. Best Service. Lowest Rates. REMEMBER t'n<li exc-urslon Is In charge of .a competent luaimtfer. INFORMATION COSTS BUT THE TROUBLE OF INQUIRY. rOLDEBS AMD ILLUSTRATED GUIDES FREE. NO 11-;.— Iiiliiimtliinul Sli'imu'rn U'livliiu Si. .lolili M Iii.v iiuikc cIIiitI (Diiiioilldiif.. JUDSON I COMPANY, m WASHINGTON STREET. BOSTON. Brasoh or 1805. Boston and Philadelphia Steamship Company. Forty Hours at Sea. EXCURSION TR ' P TOP"' LADELPHIA . A capital clianve to enjoy the cooling breezeH of the ocusn, by the Itoiiton and l'hUii<l«lphla Stenmahlp Company's SteamabipK, Indian, I'akthian and Hpaktan. Stesnitm leavi' Boston from the South Side of Ccntnil Wharf every Wedn^iday and Saturday, at 3 p.m. Due In Piiiladki.puia Friday and Monday a.m. Leave Phii.adbu-iiia from I'lor SO, South Wharven, foot of Tine Street, every Tues- day and Friday at 3 p.m. Due la Bos'Ton Thursday and Sunday a.m. Aocuramuilatlona Hnt-claa*. Fare for AiIiiHm, SIO RmcIii Clilltlren under ten years of atce. •.) each ; .Meals, and Berth lu Btatorooni Included. Exiiursloii tivketH to Philadelphia and return by either Steamer, •IH. No pasiage secured until paid for and number of berth and stateroom entund on ticket. For further particulars, apply at the otUce of the Company. F. P. WING, Agent, Central Wharf, Boston. GEO. C. ECKHARDT, Agent, 338 So. Del. Ave., Philadelphia. i<ii>lii<w>iii<iriPn<wMawfc>ai* AR AND lABLE ipagles. ties leave P.M. N.CALIFORNIA Lowest Rates. iiipL'tciit iimiiafrcr. NQUIRY. IIIIIM'tlllllK REET. BOSTON. ly- Sbasom or 189S. I PHILADELPHIA. y a.m. ■tclMi. Fare for Clilltlren under ten ; Muiila, and ttvtth tu excursion tivketH to rn by either Slenmcr, jred until paid fur and stateroom entund on particular*, apply at ny. ,, Philadelphia. L-U ui E >s .5 (/T 1 "• 1 ■ c/) <D O c O i c CO 0) (D k- -♦-• C/) t a. Q_ o CO > F § tr (fl < ^ > J Q LU ^ -Q Jf> "J < 1- 1fl r X 4) <a '• O X OL _J c .=§ „ cfl 9 >* Ul ^ 1 X q: (J o ^ ^ 4..^ CO UJ p«4 s >, o -Q « V O "C •s cc tlfl d _l e e ■ Cliarlottetown Steam Naviotion Co., Limited. PHIHCE EDWHHD ISL0ND l//a POINT DU CHENE and PICTOU. ®^mmmWL ARRAllGEMUSftT— 1895. The fine twin screw steamer " Northumberland," of this comiiany, will leave Sumnierside at 8.00 a.m dailv, Sundays excepted, for Point du Chene. Keturnmg, will leave Point du Chene on arrival 'of morning train from St. John. The steamer " St. Lawrence " will leave Charlottetown at 6 a.m. daily, Sundays excepted, for Pictou. Returning, leave Pictou daily on arrival of morning train from Halifax. Passengers for St. John and intermediate points leave Charlottetown at 7.00 a.m. by rail, connecting with steamer at Sumnierside for Point du Chene, arriving at St. John same evening. FRED W. HALES, Manager, Charlottetown. LONG ISLAND, NEAR LUBEC, ME. One and one third iniles long and one third mile wide, com- prising about 550 acres. The Island is rich in natural beauty, the surface being pleasantly diversified between hilly bluffs, gentle un- dulations and level land. Building lots for sale. Inquire of PAS8AMAQU0DDY LAND AND IMPROVEWENT CO. F. G. DAVISON, 266 Washington Street, BOSTON. - -. -■>-—.^---,^.l-f,jp.,»)»»^ .-.^f f-- )., Limited. ND 595. ipany, will leave enc. Returning, )hn. n. daily, Sundays of morning train etownat 7.00 a.m. le, arriving at St. harlottetown. D, lile wide, coni- ral beauty, the uflfs, gentle un- EMENT CO. STON. The Ne=mat=ta=no, AT NORTH LUBEC, ME. This popular hotel will open for the season July ist, 1895. One hundred feet above the sea level. Large Concert Hall in connection with hotel. First-class Bowling Alleys, Tennis Courts, Boats and Caf^s. Within easy distance of St. Andrews Bay, Magaguadavic River, Mahar Falls, Campobello, Grand Manan, Quoddy Head, and other places of note. The New England Y. M. C. A. Summer Encampment is held at this place in July and .August. There will be Tournaments, Excursions and Concerts. For hotel rates, address R. M. ARMSTRONG, Manager, NORTH LUBEC, ME. ■l >^ iia.iMmi1|- |Ml Tr1Hwt«F ili r-- I I ^ilUide v.,.v Merchant PLEASANTLY LOCATED NEAR LUBEC, - - MAINE. STEAMBOAT LANDING. W. B COTfLE. Proprietor. FIRST-CLASS LIVKRV STABLE IN CONNECTION WITH THE HOUSE. TERMS MODERATE. W. J. MALLMAN, Proprictor. PERMANENT AND TRANSIENT BOARDERS ACCOMMODATED AT REASONABLE RATES. Hot and Cold Water. Electric Bells. Flr»t-elasR Mvery stable In connection. LUBEC, MAINe. W. B. MOWRY. IF YOU WANT DEALKRIN READY-MADE CLOTHING. (1ENT8' FURNISHING GOODS. HATS AND CAPS. PUT THE LUBEC HERALD ON YOUR LIST. COVER THE TERRITORY YOU WANT TO COVER. ADVKBTISIKG KATES, 00 (TS. PKB INCH, CASH IN ADVANCE." WATER STREET, XitrSEC, - - - StC^ZXTS. All kinds of pluin and fancy Job printing at City prices. Mail orders receive prompt attention. Circular work a specialty. LUBEC HERALD, LUBEC, ME. Hotel, MAINE. Proprietor. TRANSIENT IM MO DAT ED .E RATES. ir. ctric Bells. Iv in connection. :C HERALD LIST. RITORY YOU :OVER. BO (TN. PKB INCH, VAHCE. I fiincy jolj i)rintlns( ompt attention, iilty. ERALD, LUBEC, ME. '-trf^'"-"" *^-^'i».n^'"^-^---.-H ■ .-JT,i---,-i^^sfci< WOODBRIDGE BAGGAGE TRANSFER, Dice at Mentioiial SteanM; Coviy's Ml, Authorized Agents of the above-named Express are in wait- ing at the landing of the steamers of the International Steamship Company to forward baggage to all parts of the city and suburbs, also to all trains and steamers. J. S. WI'^'SLOW. E. W. CI.ARK. .AA»^A».>^^AA. J.S. * & CO. * SHIP BROKERS, -AND DEALERS 1N« SHIP STORES AND CHANDLERY. ■ AGENTS ■ Nos. 135 and 137 COMMERCIAL STREET, Portland, Maine- V \., -w -rr^ ' 300 Series." Hot Water Heater. QURNEY HOT WATER HEATERS, Steam BoOers and Radiators, For Heating Churches, Public Buildings, Offices, Apartment Houses, Residences, Green Houses, Etc., By HOT WATER and STEAM. "Ourncy" Radiator, For H(it Wate'. " Double Crown " Hot Water Heater. The Acme of Perfection for their Respective Requirements -- •• Send for • ' How Best to Heat Our Homes, ' ' a valuable treatise on Hot Water or Steam Heating. durney Heater Mamifacturlng Co., W3 Frank/in Street, Boston, Mass. * (iiirney " Steam Hoiler. HY ■ATERS, :adiators, lie Buildings, Residences, c, STEAM. ^aler Heater. p their 's," a ¥aluable Heating. irlng Co., 1, Mass. 3kA^<^^2UK3il<l«««<^!* ; .«VC'M-«f.Urc»r>»3 ^ "The Franklin" AMERICA'S BEST TYPEWRITER. A USEFUL GIFT FOR YOUR MINISTER. A STANDARD MACHINE WITH UNIVERSAL KEY-BOARD, AT A POPULAR PRICE. _ jk $75. i^^^^^S^BnttSfl^^HflBH^I^^^^BP $75. H/IS NO EQUAL FOR BUSII\IESS OR PROFESSIONAL USE Writes in Sioht, = = = = . = = = Always in Aliontvient, \nA challenges comparison with any other, especially in the most essential points of simplicity, durability, speed, economy, alignment and good work. Don't buy until you have seen and tried the LATEST machine. Respectable Agents Wanted. Catalogue Free. FRANKLIN TYPEWRITER MANUFACTURING CO., i BROOKLYN, N.V. mmmm \Vm. I). WiNHoii, I'ri'Klilfiil. S. T. SNDW, 'I'ri'iiHiii-fr. .Ia!<. K. Hkown, .\m>iil. REVERE COPPER CO. S' P 369 ATLANTIC AVENUE, BOSTON, 242 SOUTH STREET, NEW YORK. MANUFACTURERS AND DEALERS IN COPPER AND YELLOW METAL SHEATHING, BOLTS, COM- POSITION, COPPER AND YELLOW METAL NAILS, COMPOSITION SPIKES AND SHIP FASTENING, YELLOW METAL PUMP RODS, BRAZIERS' COP- PER AND DIMENSION YELLOW METAL, COLD ROLLED, AND PATENT LEVELED, IN STOCK AND MADE TO ORDER. I SmTHDili COFFE FOR YACHTS A SFECIALTT. Importers of Sheathing Felt. HdWN, Aifcnt. 30. YORK. TS, COM- NAILS, [NG, P- CIALTY. BOpi^ iiTV BIDTEL, AJIERlGAJl HOUSE, Calais, Maine. D. M. OAnoNmit. pitoPHieroH, A A Conches to and from nil traliiR nod atejimerB. A A Hotel Heated by Steaixi. OALAfS, MAINE. -Hlc First-class *-^ Livery Connected. J. G. HAMILTON, PROPRIETOR. I NSURE WIT H, WHITLQGK, ? ST. STEPHEN, N. B. FRED. S. HARTFORD, « LIVERY AND HACK Calais, Maine. Coaches to Steamers and Trains. MARTIN CONE Livery aod Sale STABLE, Main Street, CALAIS, - MAINE. HILL, PIKE & CO., Wholesale . . . DiHICT IMFORTBBS OF . . . Molasses and Tea and Jobbers of Flonr. CALAIS, MAINE. ^S- siell good, at Boston prices. Xo goods at Retail. ■ iziufcjgir- -a *^^ -^>^^* rtfcj v."itn -a i l ■ ff t.^jafcfefte*'^^^^*^'^ Z.£/?i9//VG MERCANTILE HOUSES OF ST. JOHN. MANCHESTER, ROBERTSON k ALLISON, THE LARGEST DRY GOODS HOUSE IN THE MARITIME PROVINCES. SII.KS, MANTI.KS, MII.I.INKKV, DRESS COi HiS, KUKS, C.l.inKS, HOSIERY, UMHRKM.AS, Cl.OTHS, LACKS, UNDERWEAR, WATERl'ROOKS, GENTLEMEN'S KURNlSHLNdS, CARPEI'S. P^acaulay Bros. & Co. VIcltoiM to llic city nre hoIIcIIciI to lli»|ii'ct our Htock of lilutielanc Dry Ooodn XiK'cliiltU'n : DRESS GOODS, SILKS. LACES, VELVETS, FINE KID GLOVES, . GENTLEMEN'S FURNISHING GOODS. 65 to 69 King Street, St. John, N.B. LIMITED. W. H. THORHE & COMPANY, -^ ==• Fishing Tackle, Salmon Rods, Forests' Flies and Lines. WHOLESALE AND RETAIL. 40 TO 46 PRINCE WILLIAM ST., market square. ST. JOHN, N.B. FERGUSON & PAGE. C. & E. EVERETT, ji JSWBIE,SR8. .MANlKACTUREIiS OK F^INK FURS. DLimonds, Fine Jewelry, Watches, Oper.i ^^ ' — LADIES' SEAL COATS, MADE FROM Classes, also Souvenir Spoons, Silver Novelties. ! „gg.p LONDON DYED ALASKA SEAL ' SKINS, A SPECIALTY. 43 King St., - ST. JOHN, N.B. II King St.. St. John, N.B. IHN. IISON, (riNOES. s, ,ACKS, ■i, CARPK IS. mIh Sin'eltiltli'F" .' s, OODS. I MIT ED. lARE, JRS._ MADE FROM LASKA SEAL hn, N.B. MiM . i ^ia K W a^ p^t^^ K ift ^tf afli< tw <^ ^ >i m il Eiiitei Boilers anl laMis . - - FOR HEATING - - - Residences, Churches, Schools, Stores ami Pnltlic Buildings by —\ STEAM AND HOT WATER. , At Exeter, N. H., we make the •' Exeter' I Heating Apparatus for Steam and Hot Waterl I in a line that covers every possible requirement.! I Here we simply make a prefUction.vig. : l I If you contemplate the purchase of any such I I apparatus— be it trifling or extensive— you willl I err in failing to Srat inveatigate what we I have to offer you. Our large illustrated Cata-' lloguc is yours for the mere asking. \% SM^^ [-fiqS. EXETER Machine Works, SALESROOMS. 3a OLIVER ST.. BOSTON. WORKS: EXETER, N. H. The past mo years have considerably modified " Exeter" heating systems. X)(t(!& 8*»L The only heating Apparatus Com- bining Safety, Economy, Efficiency and Durability. THE FIVE REQUISITES OF A PERFECT APPARATUS. MANUFACTURED BY - - - EXETER MACHINE WORKS. WORKS: EXETER, N.H. (32 OLIVER STREET, BOSTON. SALESROOMS:], ^3 centre STREET, NEW YORK. THE Intercolonial Railway OF CANADA. rite Popular Line. Route. Betuieen Montreal, Qaebee, St. John, Halifax, Sydney, C. B., and Ppinee Edaiard Island. THK I'KOPLE'S RAILWAY makes fast time and low fares. Its equipment is of standard excel- lence. Trains brilliantly lighted by electricity. Westinghouse .Automatic Air Brakes. A PERFECT TRAIN SERVICE. No other route in America presents to tourists, pleasure seekers and invalids so many unrivalled attractions. Pure air, splendid sea bathing and a perfect panorama of delightful views. The Intercolonial Railway traverses for 200 mdes the south shore c» the majestic St. Lawrence, thence through the famous lake, mountain and vai;<;y region of the Metapedia and Restigouche Rivers, unequalled for their mag- nificent scenerv, and along the beautiful and pictures(iue shores of the Ik.ie des Chaleurs and Gulf of St. Lawrence and the " Scenic Route through Cape Hreton. Tourists should be sure to include its famous resorts m their summer tour. , t ^ 1 • 1 Sportsmen will find the rivers, lakes and woods along the Intercolonial unequalled. SAFETY, SPEED AND COMFORT Round trip tourist tickets, summer excursion and sea bathing tickets, o-ood for passage between the 1st of June and last of October, are for sale at all the principal railway and steamship agencies in Canada and United States, Guide books to the Intercolonial Railway, maps, hotel lists, books of summer tours, also time tables can be had on application to city agents, or to D. POTTINGER, General Manager. MONGTON, H.B. JHO. K. LYONS, Gen' I Pass. Agent, MOHCTON, N.B. my Route. , C. B., and ;:inflard excel- ise Automatic ; seekers and ea bathing and ill shore c' the tain and valley for their maj;- ;s of the IJr.ie ante " through resorts in tlieir e Intercolonial lathing tickets, cr, are for sale la and United lists, books of :v agents, or to , H.B. M.B. 3Ucmovaurtum. I I iUcmovaudum. PUBLISHED BY THE NTERNATIONAL SlEAnSHIP Go i'|ijl »ll i y i' |w i n ' . i r.^ — ■*^i -' j^^6-^"i Boston,, '^Ass, r Portland, ■ Eastport, LuBEC cg Calais, Ae. Campobello.StAndrcws AND 5T. JOMN.N.B. AND BEYOND. \ A i: >: \- ■H