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(Late of the Government Survey Staff of Britioli Columbia, anil of tlio International Boundary Line of North America) Autlior of ' What the Farmers may do with the Land,' • The Paris Exhibition,' • Decimal Coinage,' &c. I'CJf''- LONDON: LONGMAN, GREEN, LONGMAN, ROBERTS, & GREEN. , : 1863. Price One Shilting. i i r^ The following Lecture originated in the desire of the gentlemen forming the Council of the Egyal United Service Institution to lay before its members trustworthy infor- mation regarding the capabilities of British Columbia and Vancouver's Island as a field of emigration for Englishmen. A few corroborative statements have since been intro- duced ; and some, which from their nature could not be interwoven in the text, have been appended as foot-notes. LOMJON' riiiNTnn bt spottiswoode and ro. KKW-SIKKliT SQt'Aim BRITISH COLUMBIA AND VANCOUVER'S ISLAND. -ooj«ecause I oble pro- irces and ture — of ssess the n to dis- rrive at a rmed the '■ raaturer ly weight atements, is him to ision, and ct which iiions are i shaken by no wind of self-interest, or gust of blinded passion, — that his views are obscured by no mist of prejudice or error. I therefore trust that you will not attribute my giving some account of myself to any less creditable motive than a desire to satisfy you that you are not listening to a man who has never seen a blade of grass grow, or slept under the impervious shades of the eternal forests. From my youth upwards, I have been occupied in the study and practice of agriculture. I have, since 1848, prosecuted my calling as a civil and agriculturtd engineer with perfect success ; and under my imme- diate direction upwards of a million sterling has been expended on the drainage and improvement of agricul- tural lands alone. I have been taught every branch of farming, experimentally, practically, and scientifically ; and I have farmed extensively on my own account for many j^ars. I have received, in short, a first class agricultural education, without which no one is in a condition to form a just opinion of the pastoral and agricultural capabilities of any country, whether new or old. And I may also add that I have been employed professionally by the Chief Commissioner of Lands and Works of British Columbia, and by the British North- American Boundary Commission, as well as by ])rivate individuals in both colonies. In conclusion, I can safely affirm that I have no possible inducement to advance statements unwarranted by facts, or opinions which are not well grounded. Wliat I assert I have seen with my own eyes, or know of my own knowledge, and I have no interests to promote save those of truth, and the prosperity of intending emigrants. F, I i BRITISH COLUMBIA AND Although details of the discovery and early liistoiy of British Columbia and Vancouver's Island are inter- esting, they are unnecessary on the present occasion. I shall therefore proceed at once to give accurate in- formation as to the nature of these countries, the ciia- racter of their climate, and the extent of tlieir resources and capabilities ; and I shall also advert to some of the drawbacks of British Columbia as a colony for settlement. British Columbia lies on the western side of North America, between the 49th and 55th parallels of north latitude. The Eussian territory forms its northern boundary, the Eocky Mountains close it in on the east, the territoiy of the United States forms its southern limit, whilst the North Pacific on the west washes 450 miles of its coast. Its area, including Queen Char- lotte's Island, is computed to be 225,250 square miles, or nearly three times that of Great Britain. It was pre- viously known as New Caledonia, but has formed a colony under its present name since August 1858. The general appearance of the country is very pic- turesque, but gloomy in its grandeur, awful in its solitude. No bubbling brooks, no soothing shades, nu softly swelling hills, as in pleasant England: but in their stead streams white with foam, rushinj? filonu' between cliffs, down ravines, and over waterfiills, in deafening thunder ; tremendous precipices, yawning gulfs, and naked towering rocks splintered with the storms of- countless years ; boundless forests, fearful in their gloom, and fearful in their howling beasts of prey. Yet, when the vast masses of foliage glitter in the sun- light ; and above the overhanging cliffs and mountains. VANCOUVER S ISLAND. ally liistoiy d are inter- it occasion. Lccurate in- es, tlie cJia- ir resources to some of colony for 2 of North Is of north ! northern •n the east, } southern cashes 450 pen Char- are miles, was pre- brmed o 858. very pic- Vil in its latlcs, no but in ig along rfalls, in yawninir vith the 3arful in of prey, he sun- luntains, far up in the sky, glow pyi'amids of snoAV and ice ; these wilds furnish views of intense splendour. Inaccessible mountain ranges traverse the land, many of their peaks clothed with perpetual snow ; and its general surface is rocky and barren, except where covered with forest trees and brushwood. The territory is literally studded with long narrow lakes, some of them of great depth, and varying from five to fifty miles in length, in breadth from two to seven, with water extremely cold and clear. However, there is one exception to this clearness in the Liloost water, which is of a dirty green. On the other hand, I never beheld anything more lovely than the Lake of Chilukeneyuke, as I once looked down upon it by moonlight. Every star, in all its brightness, was mirrored in the translucent waters. The magnificent glacier of the lake resembled a mass of gigantic emeralds partially covered by a mantle of snowy whiteness ; the green ice at every crevice shining clearly in the sun, which year after year vainly strives to melt it away. The river Fraser is the great artery of the country, and the only river affording any extensive facilities, for navigation. It takes its rise in the Eocky Mountains, and after a course of 700 miles flows into the Gulf of Georgia, six miles north of the boundary line. Its current is broad and extremely rapid, and the melting snows of summer raise it some fifty feet, at which season it sweeps along with fearful velocity. During this period the navigation is very dangerous, owing to the great quantity of trees, stumps, roots, and logs Avhicli float down upon its surface ; and at other times the shallows and shifting sands, in which it abounds, render voyaging on its waters, except for flat-bottomed steamers, peculiarly hazardous. The river is also dilli- I ' I i I I 8 BRITISH COLUMBFA AND cult of entrance for large vessels, on account of its tortuous channel, and the numerous banks and shoals at its mouth, which change continually. It is navigable for vessels of considerable draught for thirty-two miles from its mouth, and flat-bottomed steamers have reached sixty miles farther ; but the lower portion only can be considered adapted for navigation, the upper portion being broken by foils and rapids. The forests are of vast extent, and sufficient to supply the wdiole world with valuable timber for ages to come. To the spectator, indeed, the whole territory appears to be one mass of wood ; and as Commander Mayne writes, page 50 of his book, ' some idea may be formed of it if I state that I have travelled for days in this country, where we scarcely advanced at the rate of one mile an hour.' At times these forests are set on fire by some straggling miner or packer ; and those who have not witnessed such a conflagration can scarcely conceive an idea of the fury with which it rages in the diy summer ;3eason, when the underwood, fallen branches, bark, and withered leaves are all so inflammable, the I'arefied air all the while how^ling through the trees like a hurricane. The coast is bold and rocky, exhibiting continuous chains of mountains broken only by the Fraser, and numerous and deep inlets, which drain the region stretching eastward from the coast range to the Eocky Mountains. No harbour exists north of the 49th parallel, with the exception of Berrard's Inlet, which lies about twelve miles up the coast from the mouth of the Fraser. Tliis inlet is difficult of access, but is well sheltered from the open sea,, so as to afford ample safety for vessels. Warm springs are found in British Columbia, one of VANCOUVER S ISLAND. [•.mint of its i and slioals is navigable ty-two miles lave reached only can be 3per portion ;nt to supply ges to come, y appears to layne writes, formed of it this country, one mile an fire by some ^lio have not ely conceive in the diy en branches, mmable, the [h the trees continuous Eraser, and the region o the Eocky the 49th Inlet, which le mouth of but is well imple safety mbia, one of wliich, about tw^enty-four miles northward from Douglas, discharges a stream of three square inches in volinne. The water is soft and agreeable to wash in, is perfectly clear and colourless, and its temperature 132° Fahr. A cursory examination into its composition detected chloride and sulpliate of sodium. The Indians resort to this hot spring under the persuasion that it possesses miraculous healing powers. They believe that in the night a spirit comes down to impregnate its waters with remedial properties ; and it is to them a holy spring, whilst to tlie white man who goes thither to slake his tliirst it is all but fatal. Such, then, is the general appearance of British Columbia. Let us now see what manner of men are the aboriginal inhabitants — ^what tlieir nature and cha- racteristics. The cradle of the red man will perhaps never be discovered ; philology alone could hope to do this, and the chances are slender : but his present con- dition is fully before us. The public mind has long been disabused of the pleasant fiction of the noble savage, a being who only existed in the imagination of dreamers, and who has received his most recent embodiment at the hands of American story-tellers. He has been drawn out of the haze of the novelist, and examined in the light of day, and he turns out to be a compound of sensuality, treachery, and cruelty the most revolting. Civilisation may have much to answer for, but there is nothing it has introduced at aU to be compared to what it has driven away. It would be more just to say that there are evils which civilisat>ion cannot eradicate, and which still remain amongst us, the residuum of the primal savnge. 10 BKITISII COLUMBIA AND i Tlic greater portion of Britisli Columbia is occupied by the Takalli^ or Carrier Indians, who are divided into eleven tribes, each numbering from 50 to 350 individuals, and all speaking the Athapascan language, with a few dialectical differences. They are, like all the savages of these regions, filthy in their habits, and extremely debauched and sensual. They feed chiefly on salmon, and the flesh of bears and other wild animals, some of them burrowing in the earth and • living like badgers or ground-hogs. They are, more- over, very superstitious. To the southward of the Takalli are the Atnahs, who hve in the region of the Fraser and Thompson rivers ; and below t.iese are the Flat-heads, numbering from 4,000 to 5,000, and occu- pying the country on the Columbia and about Fort Colville, between the Cascade and Eocky Mountains. These are the chief tribes of the interior. Of the Coast tribes the most northern known to English fur-traders is the 7im Ghaare, a small tribe of expert hunters inhabiting the south-east corner of the Prince of Wales's Archipelago. The Ilaidah, or natives of Queen Charlotte's Island, contrast favourably with the southern tribes ; I have seen some as fair as the people of the South of Eui'ope ; and they are very warlike, strong, and dangerous. The women invariably wear as an ornament a piece of ., wood about half im inch long, fixed in the lower lip by means of an incision made parallel to its length ; they refrain, however, from flattening the heads of their children. These Indians are remai"kable for their in- genuity. They fabricate most of the curiosities met with on the coast, and tliey raise potatoes for sale to the inland tribes ; but they are a most treacherous race. The Nootka Columbian group includes a greater VANCOUVER S ISLAND. n i occupied 'c divided to 350 language, e, like all }ir habits, Chey feed and other earth and are, more- [•d of the on of the ise are the and occu- bout Fort ^iountains. known to mall tribe corner of e's Island, I have f Europe ; langerous. 1 piece of ver lip by ^tli ; they of their tlicir in- sities met )r sale to caclierous a greatei' number of tribes than the Northern or Ilaidali familv. The flattening of the head is universal amongst them, and prevails along the north-west coast from the 53rd to the 46th degree of latitude. There are several other tribes, but they need not be enumerated, as the same description applies to all. The wild man of British Columbia is as savage as the scenes which surround him. The trunk of a tree forms his canoe ; strings of shells and teeth of animals form his ornaments, his record, and his coin ; fern and forest leaves furnish his couch ; bulrushes, lichens, and moss, his protection against the blasts of winter ; and wolves and bears his rivals for the lordship of the soil. They live chiefly upon salmon, deer, bears, dogs, and such animals ; and prefer their meat putrid, which may account for their abominable odour. Murder is no crime amongst these ferocious beings, who stab, shoot, and scalp, without pity, and are known to eat their enemies with the voracity of their companion wolves. They are revengeful, deceitful, and unrestrained liars, and, to crown all, get rid of their sick and aged by cruel and willful neglect. They are by no means stupid, but as inquisitive and observant as they are heartless. Their dress in Avinter consists of the skins of wild animals ; in summer of a strip of bearskin or deerskin round their loins, and in some districts even this is dispensed with. They paint their bodies hideously with every pigment they can lay their hands on, blood colour being their favourite hue. When dee])ly stained witli vermilion it is a sign that war rages among them, and it is then dangerous to approacli tliem. In genend tlie difTerent tribes entertain a bitter liatred asjainst each other, evinced by f''equent feuds, which often end in death. BRITISH COLUMBIA AND They have some idea of a Supreme Being, whom they fancy good-looking, always naked, well painted, and having pieces of fur round each leg and arm, and dogskin round his shoulders ; but they have no religious rites. Yet they are very superstitious, and are terrified by every unusual occurrence. I have seen tliem fall upon their knees, or throw themselves down upon the ground, and roll about, uttering the most frantic yells, upon seeing an eagle hover over their wigwam. I have also seen an old Indian look pen- sively at the track of some wild animal, and then return hastily to his cabin, where he would remain for the rest of the day, and for the following night, and would not stir out if the whole world were offered to him. Polygamy, stealing, lying, and gambling prevail to a fearful extent, and female chastity is unknown. Yet they seem very fond of each other and of their children ; and sometimes women may be seen sitting by the skull of a child, a husband, or a brother, pouring forth the anguish of their souls, and talking to it in the most endearing tones. In matrimonial matters the squaws propose to the men, and girls are contracted and paid for years before the marriageable age. Their slaves are horribly treated : they are made to do all the filthy work, and are cruelly lashed. Doubtless these slaves will one day rise against their masters, and avenge themselves for the atrocious barbarities inflicted on them. They seldom bury their dead, but either burn the bodies or place them in ornamented wooden boxes raised beyond the reach of wolves and dogs, and leave them to decay. When a married man is burned liis M'idow is placed on the pile beside the corpse, and VANCOUVER S ISLAND. 13 ig, whom I painted, and arm, have no tious, and I have ;hemselves g the most over their look pen- and then lid remain ing night, ere offered >revail to a lown. Yet ir children ; 3y the skull a forth the n the most the squaws :d and paid Cheir slaves ill the filthy these slaves and avenge iuliicted on 3r burn the )oden boxes 1 dogs, and an is biu-ned corpse, and not suffered to remove till her flesh is one mass of blisters. After the body has been consumed she collects the ashes into a small basket, which she con- stantly carries about with her ; and when three years have been spent in drudgery for her husband's relations she is permitted to marry again. The Indians hate the whites, because the whites hate them. They invariably take life for life ; and if a white man has been the aggressor, they will kill the first white man they meet, utterly regardless as to whether he knew anything about the murder or not ; and many a poor wanderer in British Columbia has tlius fallen. Such is their thirst for blood, that I liave been shown thirty scalps in one wigwam. Their modes of torture are numerous and horrible : some prisoners they scourge to death, others they roast at slow fires ; and I have seen four fiends seize a wretched captive, and, each taking a limb, swing him with all their force against the ground till they left him a mangled corpse. Contempt of pain is confined to the males ; the females are timid, and meet their torture in paroxysms of terror. Their villages are generally built upon natural slopes on the banks of rivers, or in sheltered nooks by the sea-side, with a precipitous bank in front to pre- serve them from the attacks of hostile tribes, while the outskirts are overspread with piles of fish, fish bones, and the accumulated filth of years. The wigwams vary from 100 to 300 feet in length, by from 50 to 100 in breadth, and are constructed of thick plank boarding and heavy logs ; one wigwam generally con- tains twenty or thirty families. The smaller wigwams or huts are formed of bark cut in lengths of from seven to ten feet, on which stones are laid to prevent their warpin it 14 BRITISH COLUMBIA AND in drying. These are fastened with twisted twigs to a framework of stakes driven into the ground ; and the roof is covered in the same manner, a hole being left to let out the smoke. The fire is in the centre, and tree stumps and large stones are placed round it to serve as tables and seats, on which men, women, and children sit, generally as naked as they v/ere born, and not un- frequently covered with a moving mass of vermin. The fur-skins worn by day form their covering at night, while their bed consists of a layer of deer- or bear-skins, or a rush mat. The whole family, and sometimes two or three families, live and sleep in this one unpartitioned apartment. I should be sorry to chill a single earnest feeling in favour of these poor barbarians, but it is to be feared that if any impression is ever to be made on them, it can only be done by going into their midst, living their life, and feeding on the flesh of wild animals, on grubs, roots, and grasses, like themselves. Their condition is the most deplorable that can be imagined ; many of them are puny and stunted, while they are rapidly decreas- ing in number, and must soon disappear altogether. The Indian will recede before the white man, as his fatliers have done. The lovely valley in which the wariiors stood forth in their triumphant gloiy, in which the young and sprightly listened with throbbing hearts to the chants of other days, in which the mothers fondly played with their tender offspring, will soon know him no more. But, as he turns to take a last look on the tombs of his race, he will shed no tear, he will heave no groan ; for there is in his heart that which stifles such indications of emotion. It is savage courage absorbed in despair. Tliere is in the fate of these unfortunate beings i VANCOUVER S ISLAND, 15 gs to a md the : left to nd tree erve as hildren not im- The t night, ir-skins, mes two :titioned eling in )e feared m, it can lieir Ufe, bs, roots, 3n is the r of them r decreas- jether. an, as his diich tlic , in which ing hearts 3 mothers will soon I last look iir, he will hat which Te courage ite beings much to awaken our sympathy. What can be more melancholy than their history ? They fade away at our approach, and mournfully pass by us never to return. We hear the rustling of their footsteps, like that of the withered leaves of autumn, and they are gone for ever. In a few years the smoke will cease to rise from their wigwams, and the ashes will be cold on their native hearths. Poor human beings ! if they have the vices of savage life, they have the virtues likewise. If their revenge and insatiable thirst for blood are terrible, their fidelity to their kinsmen is unconquerable also. Their love, like their hate, goes with them to the grave. Although there are some handsome women to be met with amongst the northern Indians of America, there are none comparable to the tropical belles. In the native beauty of Panama, the grace which pervades the whole figure is wonderfully brought out. Tliere the female form is full of ease, delicacy, and beauty. The day w^as sultry as I turned into one of those snug retreats so frequent in the isthmus, and scarcely visible through the luxuriant verdure, to get a mouthful of cold water. The heads of the family had doubtless gone to the trackless woods to gather the wild fruits so pleas- ing to the eye and so grateful to the taste, for no one was visible but a young Indian m.aiden, who, fawn-like, st'irtled at my approach, and would have fled into the thicket had I not made signs of peace and friendship. P.. " jing my hands in the form of a cup, the woodland beauty was instantly reassured, and led the way to a shady grotto where a crystal mountain spring flowed gently from the rifted rock, whilst I followed in speech- less admiration of the vision of loveliness which floated onward in such bashful coyness. This charming nymph was attired in a loose covering of the purest white, down |i ii. I 'Ml t BRITISH COLUMBIA AND which her plenteous black hair hung to an almost in- credible length. Her complexion was soft -tinted olive, so delicate that the slightest emotion gave a crimson hue to her tender and simple cheeks. Her forehead was exquisitely chiselled, and her features Grecian in their contour ; but how shall I describe those glorious dreamy eyes, or those long drooping lashes which ever and anon came gently down like silken curtains ! Could an artist place on canvas the picture there pre- sented, — the shady dell, the tropical fruits and flowers, the limpid spring and mossy rocks, the emerald skies and purple mountain peaks, that sweet sad face and faultless form, — he might lay down his pencil and live upon his fame for ever. As she stepped on the slippery rock, with a quaintly fashioned gourd, to dip up the clear water, there was disclosed a foot whose polished outline had never been warped by the rough shoe of civilisation, and which her native innocence had never been taught to hide. She was indeed exquisitely beautiful, and recalled the lines of a great poet : Art thou a thing of mortal birth, Wliose happy home is on the earth ? Or art thou what thy form would seem — The phantom of a fairy dream ? 13ut I must leave these sunny lands and their plea- sant memories, and return to the snows and storms of British Columbia. " ! I Unquestionably a suitable climate is a consideration of the greatest importance to the emigrant, as it has a marked influence on production. A hot climate ener- vates the body and enfeebles the mind ; and, by render- ing houses and clothing less necessary, removes one VANCOUVER S ISLAND. 17 most iii- ecl olive, crimson forehead irecian in glorious es v^hich curtains ! lere pre- 1 flowers, raid skies face and 1 and live e slippery ip up the 3 polished ;h shoe of had never 3xquisitely let : their plea- storms of tisideration IS it has a mate ener- by render- moves one great spur to industry and invention. In a very cold one, on the other hand, the powers of nature are be- numbed, and the difficulty of preserving life leaves but little time for rendering it comfortable. Climate exercises, also, a direct influence on the durability of buildings, and on everything connected with agri- cultural operations. Its vicissitudes are so variously estimated by difierent persons, that it is difficult to describe the atmospheric condition of any country so as to avoid the imputation of undue praise or unwar- ranted reprobation. Doubtless, however, the most eligible climate is that under which one can live the longest, work the hardest, be least dependent on arti- ficial comforts, and have the fewest ailments. To any- one seeking a home at all approaching this standard, the climate of British Columbia would not be alluring. The winters are long and cold, the summers short and liot, the spring sudden ; and the powers of animal and vegetable nature seem to compensate themselves by extraordinary vigour and activity in the short respite allowed them from the long torpor of winter. Exaggerated accounts have been spread in Europe regarding the climate of British Columbia. It has not the clear skies and fine bracing atmosphere of Canada, as snow, sleet, rain, and fog visit the settler in rapid succession, and the winter takes up eight months out of the twelve, commencing in September and lasting till May, while the temperature is severe, the thermometer at times falling 30° below zero. The summer heat much resembles that of Canada, averaging, according to report, 80° at mid-day ; but all well-informed travellers agree in representing the weather as extremely variable at this season, and the transitions as remarkably sudden — the common cliaracteristics of an Alpine country. At B i ft I V ^ Kl w r • i I M ill ^' ^^.. n if : , ' :■ : 1 IJ h ' 18 BRITISH COLUMBIA AND Stewart's Lake, in the month of July, every possible change of weather was experienced Avithin twelve hours, — frost in the morning, scorching heat at noon, and then rain, hail, and snow. The winter season is subject to the same vicissitudes, though not in such ex- tremes. Mr. Anderson, late chief trader in the Hudson's Bay Company's service, a gentleman personally known to me, and on whose evidence I would rely, states that snow begins to fall in the mountains early in October ; that the summer climate about the forks of the Thomp- son river is dry, and the heat great ; that during winter the thermometer indicates occasionally from 20° to 30° below zero of Fahrenheit, but that such severe cold seldom lasts on the upper parts of the Fraser river for more than three days. The thermometer will then continue to fluctuate between zero and the freezing point, until, possibly, another interval of severe cold arrives. During winter, a traveller in the highlands of British Columbia must envelope himself in furs to a most in- convenient degree. Horses have been suffocated from ice forming in their nostrils, and their hoofs have burst from the effects of the cold, while the raven is the only bird on the wing. Inanimate nature yields to the same mighty power. Masses of rock are torn from their ancient sites, and huge trees are rent asunder, becoming ice-bound to the very heart, and splintering the axe of the woodman like glass. The cold is something in- credible northwards along the lofty mountain chains. The sunless forests, too, shelter masses of snow, wliich render the currents of air excessively cold and damp. In these dreary lands, consumption and inflammatory complaints are very common, and few escape rlicu- matism. A long sickness in the backwoods brings 1 ; VANCOUVER S ISLAND. 10 possible twelve t noon, eason is uch ex- ludson's J known ates that )ctober ; Thomp- ig winter 0° to 30° ^ere cold river for will then freezing vcre cold of British I most in- ated from lave burst [s the only the same Tom their , becoming the axe of lething in- lin chains, ow, which and damp, lammatory cape rlieu- ods brings s famine and utter ruin. In the winters of 18G0, 18G1, and 1862, the Fraser was frozen over, and many persons perished from starvation and exposure. Early in the September of 1859, we on the Boundary Com- mission were visited by a heavy snow-storm, the ther- mometer ranging from 82° in the day to 26° at night. Even at Victoria in Vancouver's Island, in the vicinity of the ocean, the snow fell several feet in depth, when sledffint]^ became the onlv mode of out-door locomotion. At New Westminster, which is only 54 feet above the sea level and well sheltered, the thermometer stood in January 1862 at 15° below zero ; and at Fort IIo[)e, a little way up the country, at 18°. In confirmation of my statements as to the severity of the climate of Britisli Columbia, I shall give a few extracts from the Weekly British Colonist^ published in Victoria, Vancouver's Island ; and we may rest assured, as the prosperity of the editor of the paper depends on the peopling of both colonies, that the true state of the weather has at least not been exaggerated : — British Columbia: September 16, 1862. — The weather is execrable, raining or haihng daily. One hailstone, measured by Mr. Phillips on the 22nd of Jidy^ was an inch and a half in circumference. Ice formed every night through summer in the open air. September 8. — There was a very heavy fall of snow. October 21. — Snow fell sixteen inches deep two weeks ago, and the cold has been intense. October 28. — A heavy snow-storm had fallen, covering the ground to a depth of three feet. Ice had formed in the sluices, stopping all mining work. The snow-storm fell three weeks earlier this year than last, which accounts for the heavy loss of pack animals. It -is estimated that upwards of 400 animals, valued at about 50,000 dollars (10,000^.) have pe- rished in the recent storms. u 2 M ft %^ •'v'1 ■::,.•! '.!'' 20 BRITISH COLUMBIA AND November 4. — Pack animals are perishing by whole trains at once. One packer, who went in with thirty-seven horses, has only saved seven out of the lot, being also obliged to leave his goods along the trail in various places. Another with fourteen animals lost every one of them. Dead and dying horses were met with at almost every step, some of them standing upright in the snow, just as they had been left by their owners. On the 11th, 12th, and 13th of January last, it was so intensely cola that the mercury was frozen like a rock in the bulb of the thermometer : but that was a common test of temperature. Jack Frost gave another illustration of his freezing qualities. One day a blazing fire was doing its best to neutralise the cold, when a tea-kettle filled with water was put on to boil ; but, before the fire could exercise any effect on the bottom of the water, the top of it was frozen over with a skin of ice. In the Blue Book Papers on British Columbia, Part III. p. 37, Lieut. Mayne, now Commander, Eoyal Navy, reports : — The changes of temperature are very remarkable in British Columbia. I have seen the thermometer at 31° at daylight, in the shade at noon the same day 85°, and 40° again in the evening. Again, p. 105 of his book, he says : — However hot the day may have been, the night in British Columbia, even in the months of summer, is always fresh and cold. And at p. 423 : — At Cariboo, the winter of 1860-1 was even more severely felt. On the night of the 1st December, the mercury of the thermometer congealed, and on the 25th and 26th of Janu- ary it is said to have stiffened before sun-down, with the sun shining full upon it. Two thermometers at William Lake are reported in the Victoria papfs to have burst from the effects of Vancouver's island. SI whole trains 3eveii horses, obliged to 28. Another Dead and tep, some of had been left the cold, and many instances of severe frost-bites, &c., are given. The meteorological observations taken at Lilloost by Dr. Featherstone, and printed in the British Colonist of January 20, 1863, prove beyond dispute the sudden and remarkable changes of climate in British Columbia.* st, it was so a rock in the imon test of ation of his as doing its 3d with water exercise any it was frozen umhia, Part ioyal Navy, markable in er at 31° at 85°, and 40° ht in British always fresh lore severely jrcury of the th of Janu- with. the sun iam Lake are the effects of I ; * The following are the observations referred to in the text : — January 1862. — Average temperature for 22 days, 14"* above zero. Average temperature, 9th . . 9° below zero Coldest day, 29th . . .22° „ Second coldest day, 30th . . 20° „ Hottest day, 22nd . . . 26° above zero. Ten cold windy days, wind from NW. and NE. Amount of snow fell during the month, 28 inches : 18th, 10 inches fell ; 22nd, 1 1 inches fell. Feh'uary 1862. — Average temperature for 18 days, 25° above zero. Average temperature, 10 th . .4° below zero Coldest day, 1st ... 6° „ Hottest day, lith, heavy rain and thaw . 45° above zero. Amount of snow fell during the month, 14 inches. Four days' heavy rain and thaw. Three cold, windy days. March 1862. — Average temperature for 31 days, 37 Coldest day, 10th, sharp frost Second coldest day, 11th . Hottest day, 31st . Three cold windy days in November, wind NW, snow fell, 10 inches. Two rainy days, 14tli and 23rd. April 1862. — Average temperature for the month, 54° . 20° . 20° . 50° Amount of 3P 32° 84° Coldest day, 4th .... Second coldest, 9 th . Hottest day, 30th .... Seven cold, windy days; 14th, gale of wind from SE. May 1862. — Average temperature for the month, 78°. Coldest day, 6th .... Hottest day, 11th .' . Two windy days, 7th and 11th. Four rainy days; 5th, eight hours heavy rain. 64° 100° ii f BRITISTI COLUMBIA AND In further irrefragable proof that the climate of British Columbia is variable, cold, and inclement, I need only refer to the meteorological observations taken at the MiUtary Camp, New Westminster, during 18G2 G0° 104° 80° lOG" June 1862. — Average temperature for tlie r onth, "^1° Coldest day .... Hottest day .... Three windy days. Kain fell on four days. Juljj 1802. — Average temperature for 12 days, 97°. Coldest day, 2nd .... Hottest day, 5th .... Left for Cariboo. September 18G2. — Average temperature for the month, 11®. Coldest day, 30th . . . . .60° Hottest day, 2nd . . . . . 98° liain fell on six days ; 25th, rain and snow. Five windy days ; 30th, cold SE. wind. October 18G2. — Average temperature for the month, 71°. Coldest day . . . . .50° Hottest day . . . . .81° Rain fell on six days. Six windy days. November 18G2, Average temperature for the month, 48°. Coldest day . . .30° Hottest day . . . 5G° Rain fell on two days — 1st and 3rd. [December 18G2. Average temperature for the month, 38°. Coldest day, Gth . . 25° Hottest day, 25th . . 50° Rain fell on four days; 9th, eight hours' rain ; 5 inches of snow fell during the month. November 18G1. Average temperature for 23 days, 3G°. Coldest day, 28th, 20° below zero. Five coldest days, average tem- perature 13° below zero. Rain fell on the 23rd for 24 liours, therm. 40 ; 40 inches of snow fell during the month. December 18G1. Average temperatixre for the month, 26°. Coldest day, 29th, 14° below zero. Rain fell on the 5th, with sun and thaw, therm. 42 ; 32 inches of snow fell during the month. l! VANCOUVER'S ISLAND. 98 under the directions of Colonel K. C. Moody, R.E., and the immediate supervision of Captain R. M. Parsons, E.E., an officer of remarkable scientific attainments, on whose calculations I can, from actual personal experience, place implicit reliance. The spot selected for taking these observations is greatly sheltered by mihtary buildings and by nature, and picturesquely embosomed in the forest ; moreover the cistern of the barometer is only about 54 ft. above the level of the sea. Nevertheless we find that, notwithstanding these favourable concUtions, the thermometer has indicated 15° below zero I* * The following are tlie observations referred to in the text : — ' Latitude 49° 12' 47"-5 N; Longitude 122° 53' 19" W. iucbes The highest reading of the barometer, cor- rected for temperature, was . Mean height at 9.30 a.m 30-517 Feb. 9 29-983 at 3.30 P.M. The lowest 29-963 29-071 » degrees Maximum temperature in sun's rays (black bulb) lOl-O Maximum temperature of air in shade . 88 5 „ 9.30 A.M. 73-9 „ 3.30 P.M. Mean temperature of air in shade — 9.30 a.m. 4G"8 „ „ 3.30 P.M. Minimum temperature of air in shade — 9.30 A.M. „ „ 3.30 P.M. Minimum temperature on the grass . Greatest amount of humidity Mean „ 9.30 a.m. „ „ ' 3.30 P.M. Least ,} ... Jan. 22 Aug. 29 July 23 8G-0 Aug. 28 4G-8 51-5 2-0 b.z. Jan. 15 6-0 Jan. 15 15-0 b.z. Jan. 16 1-000 -842 •772 •320 Jan. 3 f*1 24 BRITISH COLUMBIA AND ilr t rk -•'•r ^n Such is the dimate of British Cohimbia. Of course, in a region so extensive, variations are found ; that is to say, in some parts it is worse than in others, but in no part is it like that of England. Yet an anonymous writer in Blackwood's Magazine of last December, has stigmatised my book on the Colonies as ' thoroughly Table shoiving tlie Depth of Bain, the Number of Days on which it fell; the Mean Humidity (9.30 a.m. and 3.30 p.m.) ; Mean Temperature of the Air in sha a, and the Loxvest Temperature on the Grass in each month. Inches Days Humidity Tliermometer January . . February March . . April . . . May . . . June . . . July . . . August . . September . October . . November . December . 3-480 5-727 5-830 2-345 3-415 2-760 2-709 2-930 1-625 4-605 4050 7-990 9 8 17 14 13 10 12 8 9 10 8 17 -855 -815 -862 •767 ■718 -712 -718 -787 -751 -869 -938 -948 9.30 A.M. 190 30-3 38-0 45-5 571 62-7 63-2 63-5 58-4 49-3 37-9 36-7 3.30 P.M. 23-0 34-2 41-7 51-3 62-1 67-1 67-7 69-8 62-7 52-9 41-7 39-7 Min on 15-0-, 2-0 23.0 26-0 31-5 40-0 44-0 43-0 33-5 23-0 22-0 18-5J Grass g N Total . . 47-466 135 — — — — Comparison of Mean Results for three years. Yeais nain Mean Tei .perature Minimum on Grass Humidity Mean height of Barometer 1860 1861 1862 inclies 54-420 60-485 47-466 days 161 164 135 150 9.30 A.M. 49-9 48-8 46-8 3.30 P.M. 54-0 52-2 51-2 15-5 100 15-Ob.zer. 9.30 A.M. -847 -764 -842 -818 3.30 p.M -766 -854 •772 9.30 A.M. 20-942 29-943 29983 3.30 P.M. 29-919 29-889 29-963 Means 54-124 48-6 52-5 — •797 29-956 29-924 II ain was more equally distributed throughout all the months this year than in 18G0 or 18G1. lu the winter monthf, January to March, and October to Decem- ber : 31,082 inches of rain fell in 18G2 ; 41,230 in 18G1 ; and f'S' VANCOUVERS ISLAND. 25 Of course, id ; that is ers, but in monymous ember, has thoroughly ktchitfeU; the tare of the Air month. eter Mill on Grass 15-0-x 2-0 23.0 26-0 31-5 2 40-0 44-0 43-0 -^ 33-5 ■XJ 23-() 22-0 18-.5J — Mean heip.ht of Barometer ).30 A.M. 3.30 P.M. 20'942 29-919 29'943i 29-889| 29-983 29-96H 29-956 29-921 months this |r to Decem- 18G1; and ) unreliable,' because I have declared that snow, sleet, and rain fall in British Columbia, and that the climate is not ItaUan! The clever critic overlooked the im- portant fact that Dr. Eattray's ' statistics ' do not apply to British Columbia at all, but to the southern section of Vancouver's Island, situated considerably to the south of any part of British Columbia ; whilst my observations on climate apply to British Columbia farther north. I would also remark that it is most unfair and absurd to contrast the annual and monthly barometric range at London for the years 1806-16 ard Esquimault for the years 1860-61, with the object of proving that the salubrity of the climate of Van- couver's Island comes near to that of England ; since in those years the temperature ranged extremely low in this country. One might with equal justness con- trast our unusually mild winter of this year, with the most rigid ever known in Vancouver's Island, and so prove the great superiority of the EngHsh climate. In the lapse of ages the forests may be cleared, and the swamps may be drained, and the rainfall and the 40,586 inches in 1800. In the remaining months: 15,785 inches fell in 1862 ; 19,255 in 1861 ; and 13,834 in 1860. The preyailing direction of the wind during rain in each year was E and SF. The absolute limiting nights of frost in the three years were nearly the same. On the 9th of January, 1862, the river Fraser was completely frozen over, and the ice attained a thickness of 13 inches on the 12th of February. Sle^hs were running from Langley to several miles below New Westminster, and persons walked from Hope to *.\i 28 BRITISH COLUMBIA AND t .;! ■Hi ? iii I tain ridges. Through the centre of these runs usually a river, and in some cases may be seen a chain of small lakes. In summer, when the water is high, streams and lakes meet, and the valleys become sheets of water, dotted with large islands.' And again, p. 109 : ' There is very little land fit for cultivation, except on some of those benches which are found on all the rivers. . . . The shores of the coast are lined with dense, almost impenetrable, forests.' Good land may yet be discovered in the unexplored regions of British Columbia ; still it is hard to believe that this dependency will ever be fully peopled, or that its natural capabilities will render it a desirable home for natives of Great Britain. Farming can never pay, because of the abundance of agricultural produce and its consequent cheapness in California and Oregon, which enjoy a rich soil and fine climate, and are only a few hundred miles distant ; and because agri- cultural industry in the British possessions would have no protection. The Hon. Malcolm Cameron, delegate from this colony, gave it as his opinion, at the meeting in January last in the London Tavern, that ' British Columbia, not being an alluvial flat, was not so good an agricultural and cereal country as Canada ;' and my friend Captain Campbell of St. An- drews, now present, can, from an intimate acquaintance with the honourable gentleman, bear testimony to his thorough competency to form a correct opinion. When the intending emigrant hears of the mellow Itahan softness of the climaie, the balmy fragrance of the atmosphere, the serenity of the sky, and that the mere upturning of the plough is all that is wanted to convert the whole territory into a fruitful garden, let him not believe one word of it — it is all untrue. The country is in reahty a miserable one, adapted neither for grazing i VANCOUVER S ISLAND. S9 nor for corn. The larger portion is an inhospitable wilderness, difficult of access, and inliabited only by Indians, a few factors, and, with rare exceptions, the rudest outcasts of society. The Attorney-General of British Columbia, now of Vancouver's Island, has characterised it as ' a barren and desolate land ; ' and it cannot be said that he is wrong. The mountains and hills in the interior are bold and rugged, with many benches or terraces on their sides, on which are found large boulders and fragments of coarse-grained granite. The geological constitution of the Eocky Mountains is very imperfectly known, but granite and gneiss appear nearly throughout the entire range. The Cascade Mountains are also chiefly com- posed of igneous rocks, and offer many indications of recent eruptions, and much to lead to the supposition that volcanoes stiU smoulder beneath. On one or two occasions I have felt rather severe shocks while tra- versing this range. Gold is not the only valuable metal in the country. Specimens of silver, copper, and lead have been obtained, and also of iron, zinc, and quicksilver. I have picked up several pieces of almost pure copper. There arc also various kmds of stone, with coal, salt, and other minerals. In British Columbia gold is usually found in moun- tain streams and rivers, and more abundantly towards their sources, leading to the inference that vast wealth is concealed in the bowels of the Eocky Mountains. On the Fraser the river-claims are considered the most valuable, because the gold-seeker looks to the holes and crevices in the rocky bed of the stream for the chief reward of his labour. To work dry diggings successfully is expensive and toilsome, and none but cnpitalists can venture to operate on an extensive scale. ^ m 4'li : 30 BRITISH COLUMBIA AND Few of the discontented miners who return from the Fraser Kiver mines deny that there is gold ; but in many instances more money and labour are expended to get it than it is worth, because of the want of means of communication with the diggings. All the passes to these regions have been rendered extremely dan- gerous by the Indians, who plunder wayfarers with impunity. Arrest is impossible, and the government is unwilling to use force, fearing that it woidd lead to a bloody and expensive war. As may be supposed, the s<^ate of society at the mines is low in the extreme, and life and property far from secure. Night and day bands of murderous- looking ruffians prowl about and commit the most atrocious robberies. Indeed, no accoimts of the dis- comfort and crime encountered at the gold-fields," how- ever exaggerated, can come near the reality. No man thinks of moving from his tent, by night or by day, without every barrel of his revolver charged and ready for use. He dare not lie down at night without a deadly weapon at his side, and a companion on the watch to guard him from murder and robbery ; and some have attached to their trcnsure-box dogs of the fiercest description, to whom human blood is more than palatable. Thus they work and watch, sleep and live, in constant dread of death. The mhier's employment is notoriously demoralising, nuich less certain than agriculture, and for less profit- able to the community at large. His day's earnings are spent as soon as got, and his recklessness is as great as his cupidity. Many instances are narrated of his folly. Tliis no doubt arises from tlie precarious tenure of his life, and the unexpected chances of his occupa- tion. Two parties of men may work with equal energy VANCOUVER S ISLAND. 31 within a few yards of each other, and go through the same hardships and privations, and the one may get twenty or thirty ounces a day, while the other may not find a speck. It is in too many instances hke seeking for silver spoons in a dusthole ; there is nothing to indicate where to work or when to leave off. I myself knew a case in which a man, having dug for six weeks in vain, and spent all his money in food, yielded in despair, disheartened and penniless. A few hours after- wards a stranger tried tlie luckless hole, and, having continued the excavation for a couple of days, was re- warded with 90/. worth of gold. Yet these sums lose their importance when we learn that the following was the price of provisions at the mines in the beginning of this year : — Flour 90c. per lb. (nearly 4:S.). Bacon ,^1 25c. per lb. (5.s'.). Beans 90c. (nearly 4.s.). Butter So 25c. per lb. (or 13s.). Sugar $1 50c. per lb. (Qs.). Cheese ^3 25c. per lb. (13.s'.). Vegetables not to be had at any price. Candles $2 25c. per lb. (9^.). Tobacco ,J?4 per lb. (or IQs.). Truly at such prices one would need to be a millionaire to keep skin and bone together. The Avaste of life, too, is extreme. The greater number die prematurely tln-ough overtaxing their powers ; and those who survive, if tliey have acquired wealth, have generally lost their health, and with it tlie capability of enjoyment. The gold-seeker is subject to numberless maladies. Many a poor miner dies of consumption, contracted through incessant toil and exposure. For months does he pahifully, but inicomplainingly, linger on, working at intervals, until his siiirerini>s become too i>;reat and he sinks into the grave. Most begin in tlie full Ihish of youthful health and hope : few harbour a thought that Si 32 BRITISH COLUMBIA AXD II their home is to be there, or that thej'^ will even make a lengthened stay — none, perhaps, that they will there find a last resting-place. Yet in the quiet little spot on the hill, where no sound of hammer or pick is heard through the long day, gradually and surely the weary wanderers from many lands are gathered, their struggle with the world and fortune terminated for ever ; their hard luck, their rich strikes, the pulsations of hope or the gloom of despair, which each in turn animated their souls, alike forgotten. The following statistics of the produce of the mines in British Columbia may be interesting : — Produce of gold in 1858 . . ^'2,120,000 „ „ 1859 . . 1,375,000 „ „ 1860 . . 950,000 (There are no authentic returns fur 18G1.) It should be mentioned that the foregoing statement has been made up from actual returns made by Wells, Fargo, and Co., Freeman and Co., Ballow and Co., Macdonald and Co., local Bankers and Express Com- panies, and from the best information that could be gained from miners and others. Shipments of Californian Gold. 1851 ^34,492,000 185G . ^50,697,434 1852 45,779,000 1857 . 47,215,398 1853 54,935,000 1858 . 46,503,632 1854 50,973,968 1859 . 45,989,890 1855 . 45,182,031 The yield of the Californian mines is now about ^50,000,000 annually — upwards of 10,000,000/. It is therefore a manifest exaggeration to say that the British Columbian mines produce as much as those of California : and if we look to Australia we fmd that the VANCOUVER'S ISLAND. 33 two colonics of New Soiitli Wales and Victoria exported, between May 1851 and June 18G1, 25,081,408 ounces of gold, tlie value being 90,399,844/. To the student of natural history British Columbia affords but a poor field : one may travel for days and not see a living thing. Tlie bufliilo, which furnishes food and clothing to the Indian on the east of the llocky Mountains, has no place in the land. The princijial Quadrupeds are the black, brown, and grizzly bears ; the panther, lynx, racoon, Avild-cat, wolf, badger, ermine, and marten ; foxes of various kinds ; bison, red and moose deer; also beavers, otters, and other amphibious animals. The seal is found on the coast, and the ferocious walrus, often eighteen feet long, with tusks three feet in length. Of the smaller animals, there are skunks, mice, squirrels, and a singular kind of bush- tailed rat. The Deer arc pursued by the savages with unrelent- ing barbarity. Even in spring, when starvation has rendered them miserable skelet(jns, they are uselessly butchered from mere love of bloodshed. The conse- quence is that they are disappearing from the woods with wonderful rapidity, and have already become so rare as to form household pets. The Grizzly Bear is truly a dreadful enemy, and many instances of his ferocity are on record. Three men were out hunting, and unexpectedly roused a grizzly, who instantly charged upon the party. Two of the men were large and powerful, but, instead of using their guns on the enemy, they sought safety in flight. Their companion, though a small man, stood his ground, and as the bear advanced he fired at him, wounding him just enough to add tenfold to his ferocity. The c 34 BRITISH COLUMBIA AND i .H«)f«WU VANCOUVER'S ISLAND. 4i) arc the iple. liere. An old Indian and his wife were seen bitterly- weeping in front of the prison at Victoria. When asked the cause of their distress, they said that they were crying for their son who was sick in prison, his ailment being a spitting of blood. On being told that tliey might see liim in the court-house, they instantly arose and went thither. Tlie scene was very affecting. The weather-beaten and worn-out old warrior bent over his unfortunate boy, his breast heaving with sorrow, and streams rolling down his furrowed cheeks. The sight quickly reached the lad's heart ; he hid his face and poured out a flood of tears. He was sen- tenced to twenty days' hard labour. In the afternoon of the same day, the old man, his wife, and a middle- aged Indian stood before the magistrate's house. Tlie father's plea was : ' Our hearts are filled with trouble for our son. We cannot cease to weep continually. We cannot sleep. Our son is spitting blood. He will die in prison. He cannot work.' The old man then petitioned, pointing to his equally anxious friend : ' Let this man take the place of our boy in prison. He is strong. He can work. Our son will die.' The proposed substitute then entreated that he might suffer instead of the boy, asserting his own willingness and power to work, and the boy's inability. It need scarcely be added that the worthy magistrate commuted the sentence to a few days' confinement without liard labour. Victoria is by no means a desirable place of resi- dence ; the population has been gathered from the ends of the earth, and is accordingly of a very heterogeneous character. There is no society for ladies, nor indeed for cultivated persons of any^ description. Time will doubtless alter all this ; but at present the town is, like all towns near the gold mines, a perfect Babel. D I' I. Cr SI :":t; ■m m 50 BRITISH COLUMBIA AND Building and specidation occupy everybody in Victoria, and very little attention is bestowed on agriculture — a sufficient proof of which is found in the facts that the whole agricultural produce of the country would not meet the demand of the capital for one month in the year; and that (as Mr. Maclure, delegate from Vancouver's Island, stated at the public meeting convened by the British North-American Association, and held at the London Tavern on the 21st of January last) 'for miles round Victoria the land lay in a primitive condition, in the hands of speculators, and, as far as the eye could range, there was nothing like cultivation discernible.'* There are extensive and valuable coal-fields at Nanaimo, and a company has been formed for working them, with every prospect of success. There are two seams, one of which is in all parts about 6 feet in thick- ness ; the other averaging 3^ to 4 feet. The existence * In proof of this statement I have extracted from the British Colonist of January 13, 1863, the following ' Black List,' which shoAvs that large tracts of land were preemjjted in 1858 and 1859 by landsharka and speculators who never intended to pay, but simply to get the land allotted to them in the hope of inducing new arrivals to purchase at a price much enhanced. That they have failed to get rid of these lands, and that such extensive ranges are still in the market, speak volumes against the alleged prosperity of a colony, which is, I am sorry to say, kept in existence by borrowed capital, and had on the 31st of December, 18G2, a balance in the treasury of but GG3Z. 14s. \M. 'Public Notice. — All persons holding land in any of the sur- veyed districts are notified that, unless the instalments due by them are paid into the Land Office on or before the 1st day of February next, such lands will on that day be forfeited and resold at public auction on the 2nd day of February, 18G3. The sections of land in respect of which instalments are due are stated in the schedule hereto, with the names of the persons who are believed to be the VANCOUVER S ISLAND. 01 at of coal on tlie Pacific coast, of quality fit for steamers, is of great commercial imjiortance ; and that from owners. — J. Despard Pemderton, Surveyor General, Office of Lands and Works, 2nd January, IHfiS. Amount of Instalments, exclusive of Interest, due on Lands sold pi'evious to October 81, 1H02. District Range Section Supposed Owner Amount due £ 8. ff. Victoria I,V, LVI p. Mcrrimiin . 64 16 8 XXVII J. and G. Deans . 22 XXVI Ditto .... 41 XLIV J. W. MeKay 210 I.XXVIII, I-XXIX Robt. Anderson 90 I. VIII P. MtTrinian . 37 7 Esquinuiult XIII W. R. Parson 7 10 XXIV, XMX O. Dutnall . 10 XXXIV, CII D. Cameron . 67 10 en J. Greifi; 6 LXVII P. W. Wallacv 25 8 CXI J. Simpson 9 10 CVI W. Rcid 13 12 6 cv Gr. McKenzie 14 10 Lxvn, Lxvni W.Hunt . 12 LXXI A. Peatt 48 10 LXX H. Rieliards . 24 15 LXXIV, LXXV A. Peatt 25 LXIX M. Gary 4 10 LX^^II G. R. LawTenco 18 15 LXXII C. Taylor . 51 15 Mctchosin V J. McGregor . 75 10 XL E. Vine 41 LVI R. Weir 20 XXXII R. Weir 68 LIV, LV A. J. Chambers 90 18 4 LIX L. Lowenberg 39 10 7 Sooke I, II, III J. Muir .... 250 5 V, VI Michael Muir 39 12 6 vn Archd. Muir . 75 XXVII, XXVIII, XXIX I F. W. Hutchingson 72 7 6^ XI D. McTavish 92 2 9 Lake X R. Smith 22 19 2 XX Mason and Balls . 30 XXI R. Porter 8 c W. Fook 75 xxn S. Ricketts . 75 XXIII J. Hovie 17 3 XXXII, xxxm D. B. Ring . 40 5 XXX, "xxxi Ditto . . . . 37 10 XLIV, XLV, XLVI J. J. Skinner 181 10 i m ''m i 4 I 3 52 BRITISH COLUMBIA AND Nanuimo is admitted to be the best in the market. The village of Nanaimo is very picturesquely situated Amoun t of Instalments, (|-c. — continued District Range Section Supposed Owner Amount due | Lake CI W. HiUier , £4 18 3 XXVUI D. B. Eing . 26 7 6 LXI, LXXI E. Lewis 93 10 I.XX S. Franklin . 49 XCVI, XCVII J. M. Yates . 188 10 CII J'. Stevens 25 XLin, XLvn 11. Smith 49 N. Saanich 1 W 16, 17, 18 A. C. Anderso:-* 131 3 ■ 2 W 3W 21, 22 21 I John MUea (TP!:.ecutors) 53 5 1 E 13, 14, 15 Thos. Lowe . 73 10 1 W 8 J. N. Thain , 24 10 1 E 3 S. Frankli'i . 24 15 s 2E 3E 3E 1 ^ E. Green 36 10 S. Saanich ■ 4E 2E 11, 12, 5 •D. Eraser . 85 10 3E 12 N. Saanich < 3 E 4E 13, 14 J. Irving 79 10 1 W Thos. Lowj . 13 5 1 2 3W 6,7 Mark Coles (Thos. Harris) 128 5 S. Saanich 1 W 6, 6 W. Thomson 49 2 W 5,6 A. McPhale . 16 17 6 ; IE 11, 12, 13 ^ 1 W 11, 12, 13 ■ W. G. Smith . 122 11 3 1 2W 11, 12 1 E i5 D. Lydgate . 12 15 IE 14 Mary Rothwell (Trustees) 24 10 ■ 1 W, 2W 3W 4 4,5 \W. Simson . 56 10 1 E 9, 10 Geo. Deeks . 98 4E 9, 10, 11 G. Ricliardson 73 10 3E 6 M. Tuite 24 10 IE 4 J. Fronten . 24 10 1 E 3 Ed. Scott 24 10 2E 5,6 W. A. Mouett 49 5 2E 9, 10 J. I. A. Chambers. 98 3E 4,5 L. TrudcU . 49 8 21 Gough and Baker . 49 Nanaimo 8 13 0. Sabiston . 21 15 Mountain 8 11 G.Baker 46 Ceaar 3, 4, 5 14 W. Isbertcr and A. 0. JMoore 44 15 4. 5 18 J. Randal and J. Sage . 31 10 3 13 E. Gough and J. Biggs . 5 5 4 13 E. Gough . 50 10 Shawnigan 9 12 G. St. George 49 asafl VANCOUVER S ISLAND. 53 5 5 17 6 10 10 10 10 5 16 15 10 5 10 on the north shore of an excellent harbour, on the east coast of the island, backed by a range of hills some 3,000 feet high. It is a well-sheltered port having a good entrance from the Gulf of Georgia, and another from the south, which however is very narrow. The village itself consists of from fifty to sixty houses, with steam-engines, tramways, «nd piers ; and salmon abound in the river and harbour. Almost all the cattle consumed in Victoria, and shipped thence to the mainland, come from Oregon and Washington territory. Indeed it is doubtful wh fa- ther the island will ever be able to produce enough for its own consumption. It is questionable whether, with all its advantages, corn could be grown exten- sively. Potatoes are largely planted by the natives, of whose food they form a very considerable portion ; but here its farming capabilities end. According to Dr. Eattray of the Eoyal Navy, p. 57 of his book, ' Neither the geological structure, nor the general topo- graphical features of Vancouver's Island, adapt it for developement as an agricultural or pastoral colony.' Again, p. 162 : ' The hilly nature of the island and its scanty soil preclude the possibility of extensive farm- ing ; its available land is limited, and only adapted for farming on a small scale.' The Doctor's statements in reference to British Columbia are worthless, as he never traversed that colony. Then we have the official report of a journey across Vancouver's Island by Lieut. Philip James Hawkins, li.N., to Captain Richards, as it appears in the Weekly Colonist of December 18, 1862 : — ' We saw no per- fectly clear land anywhere. . . I observed 300 acres of very good, quite park-like, land, not very thickly Avooded, and covered with fern. This was the Jirst M m s. 'i'"f. 54 BRITISH COLUMBIA AND and only piece of good land, available for agricul- tural purposes, I saw.' Three hundred acres! Why, not more than would make an isolated little farm. Yet the ' special correspondent ' of the Times assures us that there are thousands upon thousands of arable acres, which Lieut. Hawkins has never seen and does not believe to exist ! From the abundance and variety of fish in the sur- rounding seas, and from its numerous harbours, exten- sive and lucrative fisheries might be established ; and the export of coals would form an important element of prosperity. Ship-building, too, for which, from its numerous inlets and fine timber, it seems to be espe- cially adapted, might be profitably carried on. But these are matters, not for poor settlers, but for wealthy capitalists, who will live at home in England and work them by means of agents. Commander Mayne says, p. 408 : ' The great set-off" that Vancouver's Island has against the gold of British Columbia is her timber ; for, though timber abounds in British Columbia, we came upon no place there where such fine spars Avere to be found, and with such facihties for shipping, as at Barclay Sound and tlic neighbourhood of Fort Eupert.' There is no opening for small farmers, the labour market is overstocked, and mechanics are at a dis- count: for not one of those classes, in short — the amelioration of wliose miserable lot is the dearest aim of the philanthropist — is there the slightest chance in Vancouver's Island, any more than in the inhospitable neighbouring region of British Columbia, where the entire white population has dwindled down to 6,000 or 7,000, upwards of 10,000 having already left the VANCOUVER'S ISLAND. ^country. Indeed, the Hon. Malcolm Cameron, mem- ber of the Canadian Parliament, and delegate from British Columbia, while urging, on the 21st of Janu- ary last, at the public meeting at the London Tavern, the importance of enabling people to reach the colony cheaply, admitted that 'it was not the place for the man who had no money to go to, for without money he could not stay there ; ' and that 'it was a meliuicholy fact that there were a large number of persons unem- ployed in Victoria, who hardly knew how to pass the winter.' Beheving, as I do, that one fact is worth a thousand unsupported assertions, I giv statement of the revenue of Vancouver's Island : the following official Auditor's Eeport. Abstract of the Revenue^ &c., received during the year 1862. — Eeal estate tax, 6683L U.v. lid.; Land sales, S,050l. 7s. lid.; Land revenue, 92/. 4.s\ 1(/. ; Liquor licenses, 3,6531. 5s.; Trading licenses, 2,840/. 10*j. ; Victoria Street tax (arrears), 64/. 13s. 8c/. ; Harbour dues, 3,428/. 2s. 10(/. ; Postages, 448/. 7s. 4(/. ; Fines, forfeitures, and fees of covut, 1,650/. 5s. ; Fees of "ffice, 506/. 6s. 9(/. ; Eeimbursements in aid of expenses, 23. 16s. lid.; INIiscel- laneous receipts, 35/. 3s. 2d.; Kent, 175/. 7s. [hi.: Deposits, 10/. 2s. ; Light-houses, 978/. 8s. 9c/.; Interest, 82/. 3s. 10(/. ; Loans in aid of revenue, 13,060/. 10s. 6c/. ; G. T. Cordon's defalcations, 289/. 14s. lOr/.— Total, 37,087/. 3s. 3c/. Ad- vances accounted for, 8,745/. 14s. 1(/. From the above it is evident to anyone famihar with the revenues of young colonies, that when the Liquor licenses exceed in amount the returns from the sale of public lands, the colony must be in a very rotten con- dition. Moreover, it is certainly most discom-aging to gather from this Government Report that the entire 1 I •■i;5 li'''! k I ! i "I 1 I 1 56 BRITISH COLUMBIA AND proceeds of the sale of Crown lands for 1862 amount to the paltry sum of 3,050/. only, notwithstanding the immigration of that year ; and that the land tax figures at 6,683, more than double the land sales. An impor- tant fact should also be noticed, that a loan of 13,000/. has been classed as revenue, which is fallacious ; the net revenue being but 24,000/. So that after paying the meagre salaries of officials, there are not 10,000/. left to meet the cost of the conveyance of mails ; the con- struction of roads, public buildings, and works ; and the usual demands on a colonial treasury. It is therefore quite plain that if the borrowing system be extended the colony must succumb and bankruptcy follow. I have now, Ladies and Gentlemen, endeavoured to give you a just idea of these much vaunted colonies. It is widely different from what you have received from others, but it is nevertheless true. I have no interest to serve but those of humanity : no feelings to gratify, but such as must animate the breast of every- one who sees hard-working men drawn to their ruin with all to lure and none to save. It is hard to attri- bute dishonest motives to any man, and some have put forth misstatements who ought to be above suspicion : but it requires the experience of a practical farmer to form a correct estimate of the \'alue of soils, and it requires a lengthened residence, and extensive travel through a country, to enable even the farmer, with all his experience, to give an opinion at all. Now, none of the gentlemen who have put forth such glowing statements are possessed of either of these qualifications. They appear to have visited the colonies at the most favourable season, and to have relied for the rest upon VANCOUVEK'S ISLAND. 57 the reports of residents — men, perhaps, wlio had spent their whole Hves in these regions, and had come to think that extreme heat in summer and intense cold in winter, varied by alternations of snow and rain and sleet and fogs for eight months in the year, formed the natural and universal course of the seasons. In no other way can I account for the boldness with which assertions have been made which a few months' resi- dence must scatter to the winds. But there are men who deserve no such merciful consideration — harpies who never meant to dwell in the colony — who invested their capital in buying up all the best allotments in order to resell them at advanced prices to the real settlers. They now find they have made a bad specu- lation, and are eager to dispose of their land ; but customers are not there, and they neither stick at any falsehood to induce them to come, nor care what becomes of them after they have fleeced them. These are the parents of the juggHng paragraphs which appear from time to time in the newspapers, and the no less jugghng letters ; these are they who ruin colonies and colonists ; and it is in the hope of keeping the emigrant out of their clutches that I have raised my voice, and shall continue to raise it, as long as I think I can be of any service to the poor fellows who have to fight this world's hard battle with scanty means. I earnestly trust that no one will suppose that I am adverse to emigration. It is indeed a lesson taught us by nature herself. In the first year of their wonderful existence the young ants are provided with wings, in order to enable them to remove far from their parent nest. The bees throw off" their annual swarms, which quit the hive or hollow tree in which they have been I III Hi 4 i!i .'I 68 BRITISH COLUMBIA AND nurtured to seek for honey in other fields. These fields are the Canadas, the Austrahas, the New Zea- lands, and the Natals of their world — certainly not the Columbias. If I have at all succeeded in conveying a knowledge of the true character of these colonies, you will see the absurdity of wasting a moment on the means of arrivmg at them. It will be enough to say that the ways are two. One a hazardous and tedious voyage of five or six months round the stormy southern Cape, and thus through the snows and fogs of the south reaching the snows and fogs of the north. The other by the Isthmus of Panama, considerably shorter, but subject to detention in a sickly climate, with the chances of yellow fever. There is, indeed, through New York, a third and better way to the shores of the Pacific, but it is more expensive. In any case the cost is too great, and the journey too dangerous to be undertaken by a family. If Eden were at the end of it, it would be another matter; but such a goal! A land in which the only hope that sustains the emigrant is the hope of leaving it! Even my friend, Mr. Eraser, the special correspondent of the Times, has left the country and taken up his residence in California; doubtless re- gretting the day that he set sail for the inhospitable regions in which he had been so greatly deceived. But why trouble ourselves about these dependencies and their approaches, when other and more accessible and far better invite us? lliere is Canada with her clear bracing winters, frosty but kindly ; long, it is true, but joyous. There are Austraha and New Zealand in the distance, with genial climate and fruitful soil ; and there is Natal nearer home. In all these countries an imi>tts'mm9 f^. VANCOUVER S ISLAND. 69 industrious man may arrive at independence, certainly at comfort — enjoying life while he toils; and, in all, failure is the exception. When South Africa is full, when New Zealand is overstocked, when Australia has not room for another inhabitant, then may Englishmen turn their eyes to the inhospitable wilds of North- western America. And so we bid adieu to British Columbia and Van- couver's Island. THE END. I 'r LONDON PIIINTBD BX SPOTIISWOODB AND CO. NEW-8IKEEI SQUABB THIRD EDITION. Ono Vol. 8vo. with a Comprehensive Map, price 12*. BRITISH COLUMBIA & VANCOUVER'S ISLAND. By D. G. F. MACDONALD, C.E., M.R.S.L., F.R G.S., J.P., ^c. (Late of the Government Survey Staff of British Columbia, anil of the International Boundary Line of Worth Aniericn), Author of ' What the Farmers may Do with the Land,' ' The Paris Exhibition,' ' Uecinial Coinage,' &c. • This work deserves attention. It posaesscs interesting information, clear arrange- ment, and occasional warmth of description.' Inveegordon Times. ' This is in every respect a most important work, and deserves the serious conside- ration of tho Government and the country.' Obsekveb. 'A very able, praiseworthy, and interesting work — boldly written — tingling of truth throughout — and one that will doubtless be read with much avidity.' Independent. * Mr. Macdonald writes down the land as one almost accursed by nature.' AinENiEUM. ' In short, there is information for all who desire to know anything about the colony, but more especially for those who contemplate emigrating to that district.' Liverpool Meecuky. ' A most startling book, after the glowing articles wliich have issued from the press.' Guaedian. ' We have no reason to believe Mr. Macdonald other than an unprejudiced reporter of what he heard and saw in the much-vaunted colony.' Ceitic. * An important and remarkable publication, which warns our countrymen from rushing hoodwinked on their ruin.' Mieeoe. ' Whoever may be disposed to go on a venture to British Columbia can never say that they were misled by Mr. Macdonald.' Bell's Weekly Messenoee. • This handsome volume cannot fail to interest all who have friends in the colony. The general account is dreary enough, except for those who are burning with the anra sacra /tunes' Eea. 'This is an excellent literary production, affording much valuable information. In the face of Mr. Macdonald's statements, it is surely a doubtful benevolence that ships off poor governesses and seamstresses to this distant colony.' Albion. ' Of Vancouver's Island the author speaks in more favourable terms, and with California he is in raptures Cannot do better than consult Mr. Macdonald's book.' Weekly Dispatch. ' The statements with which this book abounds are extremely important, inasmuch as they present the strongest possible contrast to the popular belief on the subject in tliis country. His appreciation of natural scenery is keen, and his descriptions are vigorous and life-like.' London Review. ' Mr. Macdonald's practical knowledge of agricultui'e — his education, profession, and experience — give a weight and importance to his opinions in respect to the productiveness or sterility of a country which members of other professions cannot expect to command.' Spectator. ' This handsome volume will take its place as the best book published on the subject. It abounds witli information on every topic in connection with the country, and deserves the attention of every one.' Kentish Cheonicle. ~r British Columbia and Vancouver'' s Island. 'This handsome volume, from the pen of a talented and distinguished countryman, awakens interest alike from the importance of the subject and tlie thorough fidelity with which it is treated. Wc unhesitatingly aver that no volume on a kindred subject lias ever issued from the press presenting a better prima facie claim to implicit reliance. Mr. Macdonald obviously aims at a truthful and unvarnished state- ment of facts.' NouTHEUN Ensign. ' Mr. Macdonald furnishes a great deal of interesting information regarding the Indian tribes of British Columbia, the natural liistoryand botany of the country, and has made up altogether a goodly volume of facts, hints, and tlieories.' Inverness Courikb. ' Tliis work demands the serious attention of every one intending to emigrate to British Columbia or Vancouver's Island — of every one wlio would desire information respecting those regions We are, moreover, disposed to believe Mr. Macdonald writes in perfect good faith, and has no inducement to advance statements unwar- ranted by facts or opinions not well grounded. We regard the work as a most valuable one.' The Field. ' The geology, botany, and natural history of British Columbia are interestingly discussed, to which are added numerous sketches of llie aboriginal inhabitants, with their habits of life and religious observances. We specially recommend the volume.' Edinburgh Witness. •The fact of this work having reached a second edition in a comparatively siiort period, indicates its claim to be considered of standard excellence, which it un- doubtedly is.' iMOBNING AdVEETISEU. ' His book is practical, sensible, and well-informed on local matters.' Examinee. * This book contains ample details concerning the geography, natural history, and productions of British Columbia — and to the author imcloubtedly belongs the merit of having written a large and interesting work upon a very important subject.' Star. ' His description of tlie festive entertainments of the Red Indians are highly amusing, and his hints to emigrants are most valuable. We cordially recommend the volume as the work of an accomplished scholar, and an honest, truth-telling man.' Morning Herald. ' Mr. Macdonald paints the country as a great barren ice-bound hungry waste. No doubt British Columbia is very severe in tlie winier season. Cox's " Columbia River," Washington Irving's " Astoria," and various other books, go to prove tliis.' The Englishman — ^ Atlas! ' The work commands respect, for it is well written and reliable.' Manchester Coukiee. • This instructive volume has been most opportunely published by a {jentlcman worthy of all trust, and wliosc scientific attainments are varied and profound.' Standard. * Undoubtedly the best work on the subject — full of interest, pith, and power.' Leader. ' So tliorough a handling of the subject is a most valuable contribution to our colonial literature.' Express. full of interest and replete with Illustrated London News. ' We heartily welcome this volume, as liitherto all accounts have been rouleur de rose! Dial. • Tills is positively a remarkable, able, and truthful work, which should put writers of fiction to the blush. It verifies the old saying— ?««^«a est Veritas et jtravalebit! Pioneer. ' The most wretched and miserable country under the sun. What we lieard of it in England was a gross fabrication of infamous lies concocted by interested persons.' Stab, Nov. 4, 1862. • We earnestly recommend the book, which is information.' !il %\ -n British Columbia and Vancouver's Island. * I have now read your book from end to end, and I can state very frankly, from my personal knowledge of British Columbia, as well as from deductions formed from accounts communicated to me by many persons wiio have traversed the country since 1853, that I give full confirmation to all you have said respecting the climate, soil, and physical aspect of tlie colony.' A Kksident roil nkaelt Ten Y^ku^.— Vide Standahd, Nov. 6, 1862. ' We cordially commend this volume as a most striking, comprehensive, and powerful work of incalculable value to intending emigrants.' SkntineIi. * But the illusion of a Utopia is roughly destroyed by Mr. Macdonald, who has written with a bold and vigorous pen and in an agreeable style.' Paetuenon and Litebary Gazette. ' Lord Bacon saith truly, there are three things which make a nation great and prosperous — a fertile soil, busy workshops, and easy conveyance for man and commo- dities from one place to another ; but tliese essentials are, according to our author, altogether wanting in British Columbia.* Banner. ' This is a very able and useful work, scholarly and trustworthy, setting forth the truth in a bold and fascinating style, blending information and entertainment agreeably and successfully. The work is altogether most attractive.' Waudeb. * The autlior of this disenchantment tells us that British Columbia is a miserable country— that it wants fine land, prairie, and climate.' Post. ' These are true statements, and no blame can be strong enough to be applied to those who have ignorantly, carelessly, or wilfully misled, or have furbished up old woodcuts, and dished up glowing paragraphs, to lead many families into misery, famine, and death.' Family Hehald. BRITISH COLUMBIA AND VANCOUVER'S ISLAND. TO THE EDITOn OF THE DAILY NEWS. Sir— The Editor of the Times having refused to insert the subjoined correspondence in that journal, perhaps you will do me the favour to publish it in your journal. — I am, Ac. D. G. F. Macdonald. 18 Parliament Street, Nov. 5. TO THE editor OF THE TIMES. Sir— At a time when the whole country is perplexed by the contradictory state- ments which have appeared in books, pamphlets, and newspapers relative to British Columbia and Vancouver's Island, you will not, I hope, hesitate to publish the following correspondence in the Times, Your readers will no doubt peruse Mr. Langford's letter with deep interest, and attach importance to the opinions of a gentleman wlio has been engaged in extensive farming operations in Vancouver's Island for upwards of nine years, and who had been for many years, and until his departure from the colony in 1861, Chairman of the Bench of Magistrates. — I am, sir, yours obediently, D. G. F. Macdonald. 18 Parliament Street, Nov. 4. London, Oct. 23, 1862. Dear Sir— Seeing that you have returned to England, and that conflicting accounts are disseminated day after day in this country respecting the climate, pastoral and agricultural capabilities of British Columbia and Vancouver's Island, and that my writings relative to these dependencies have been impugned, I am induced to solicit British Columbia and Vancourera Island. m^i , tho favour of your kindly giving rao your written opinion as to whothor the book in question (published by Messrs. Longman & Co., a copy of which I send to you) con- tains truth or exaggerated statements. It can hardly bo doubted that the sentiments of a gentleman so eminently qualiQcd as you are to give an opinion on a subject of such moment to the emigrating popula- tion of this country will be received by the public with favour and thankfulness. I am, dear sir, yours faithfully, D. G. F. Macdonald, C.E. Late of the Government Survey Staff of British Columbia. B. E. Langford, Esq., J.P., &c. London, Nov. 4, 1862. Dear Sir — I feel that I cannot well refuse to answer your letter of tho 23rd ult., to which I would have replied earlier had I not wished, before doing so, to have perused your work on British Columbia and Vancouver's Island with care and attention. I have now read your book from end to end, and I can state very frankly, from my personal knowledge of British Columbia, as well as from deductions formed from accounts communicated to me by many persons who have traversed the country since 1858, that I give full confinnation to all you have said respecting the climate, soil, and physical aspect of the colony. As true as there is an extensive aiiriforous tract in British Columbia, equally true is it that that territory can never become either agricultui'ally or pastorally a rich and great province. It is nothing short of reckless assertion to say that ' prairies' exist in these depen- dencies, from which winter provender might be easily procured. It is a matter of notoriety on the Pacific coast that the very pack-trains to the Columbian mines have to carry Californian barley at an enormous cost, to keep skin and bone of horse and mule together. You are correct in stating that British Columbia wants fine land, prairie, and genial climate, and that the country is neither adapted for cattle nor suited to cereals. This is, indeed, the only conclusion that an experienced agriculturist could possibly arrive at. You have very justly drawn a more favourable picture of Vancouver's Island, which possesses natural advantages not common to the sister colony. In climate and soil — particularly the former — Vancouver's Island is much superior. But its agricultural and pastoral capabilities have also been very greatly exaggerated by interested news- paper correspondents and other writers. There is, indeed, every reason to fear that many of the emigrants of this country, who have been misled by flattering accounts, and wlio have arrived on those distant shores with slender means at this inclement season will be exposed to severe privation and possibly to actual want. I would venture to draw your attention to what I presume is a typographical error in your book, where you allude to the climate of Vancouver's Island. It should be 27'^ below freezing point, not zero. This is the only error which I have observed in its many pages. I am quite aware, however, that the cold is very much more severe in British Columbia. You are welcome to make any use you please of this communication. It may probably assist in dispelling the many erroneous impressions which prevail in England us to the nature of the country, climate, :ind resources of these colonies, and in sup- porting what you have so clearly and forcibly expressed in your most valuable work. I am, dear sir, faithfully yours, Edwakd E. Langfoed, A Resident for nearly Ten Years. D. G. F. Macdonald, Esq., C.E., &c. w London: LONGMAN, GREEN, & CO. 14 Ludgate Hill. SECOND EDITION. WHAT THE FARMERS MAY DO WITH THE LAND; OB, : ; ^ V'." ■ PRACTICAL HINTS FOR THEIR AND ITS IMPROVEMENT. •' BY * ... D. G. F. MACDONALI), C.E., LONDON. ■'^' " '* !•/ '5. OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. » ' A sounder, better argued, or more thoroughly sensible practical pamphlet is not often met with. Mr. Macdonald belongs to the go-ahead class of agriculturists, and sees nothing in store for the farmer but prosperity, if he only goes the right way to extract it from the land. The superior economy and efBciency of the Scottish system of agriculture is practically demonstrated from a variety of details, stated with great clearness and much method of arrangement. Altogether, the pamphlet is one calculated to do good and set the farmers thinking, and we hope that its rural circulation may prove equal to its merits ' . Atlas. ' A pamphlet abounding with information, such as cannot fail to recommend itself.' Times. ' This is an excellent practical and well-timed pamphlet, stimulating the English agriculturists to improvement. Mr. Macdonald writes like a man in earnest, and one who is practically acquainted with the subject, and we hope that his pamphlet will be well circulated among the far niente bucolic interest.* MoENiNO CnEONioliB. 'Mr. Macdonald appeals to the English farmers to apply the most improved Scottish system of cultivation to their lands ; reminds them that the barren north produces on an average — thanks to enterprise and skill— more than a third more corn per acre than the genial south ; and reads our sluggishly-moving English friends a sound lecture on their tendencies to retrograde rather than to go a-head— filling his pamphlet with hard-hitting facts and excellent and sensible practical details.' Inverness Coueieb. •Of all the pamphlets which have recently been published on agricultural im- provements, none of them contain more practical information in such small compass.' NoBTHEEN Ensign. • It is a most sensible pamphlet — we would cordially recommend it.' Examinee. ' If one of the greatest elements of success consists in speaking to the times, and speaking in language not to be mistaken, then we say this pamplilet must obtain a wide circulation, and be the means of doing a vast amount of good.' Obseevee. ' Its pages convey a vivid and correct picture of the present state of agriculture. The hints are most valuable.' Guaedian. ' We recommend this pamphlet to our agricultural friends. It is the work of a practical man, not a mere theorist.' Gioucestee Jouenal. ' This work is clearly and concisely written, and is certainly by a master in farming. It should be perused not only by the landed proprietors and farmers of England, but by every one who is in any way connected with the occupancy and cultivation of the soil.' The Weekly Dispatch. 'A very able pamphlet.'— The Right Hon. Sie E, Bulwee Lttton, Bart., M.P. London: ADAMS, 9 Parliament Street. ..