^ w ^\^% o /<>.«< IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) y / 6> A 1.0 I.I 1.25 ■ 50 """■= IIIIIM 21 11= 1-4 III 1.6 6>m A Vi A i^> % •^ o 7 ^ % m i^. CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. ^ CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. vV Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques 1980 Technical Notes / Notes techniques The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filming. Physbal features of this copy which may alter any of the images in the reproduction are checked below. n Coloured covers/ Couvertures de couleur Coloured maps/ Cartes gdographiques en couleur L'lnstitut a microfilm^ le meilleur exemplaire qu'il lui a 6t6 possible de se procurer. Certains ddfauts susceptibles de nuire d la quality de la reproduction sont not^s ci-dessous. 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The following diagrams illustrate the method: L'exempiaire film6 fut reproduit grdce 6 la gdndrositd de I'dtablissement prdteur suivant : La bibliothdque des Archives publiques du Canada Les cartes ou les planches trop grandes pour dtre reproduites en un seul cliche sont film^es d partir de Tangle sup6rieure gauche, de gaurhe d droite et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images n^cessaire. Le diagramme suivant illustre la m^thode : 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 7) l/y'^-^''^ FW- 1 ' LIFE AT RIDEAU HALL. 218 "Supposu the liouse had Kt>iie, and the hotel stood fast, cniuld you Imve effected an entrance into the Tiotel V I aisked. "Wecoukl not have faced the j^ale." "Not for a hundred feet? not in a lyat- ter of life and death ^" " Inii)ossil)k'. The wind would have lifted us from our feet like hays of wool. We would have hcen dashed' a<^ainst the rocks, and smashed like egg-shells," was the quiet reply. ..-;>'^'' ' ' And so for soine hours you expected to be swept into eternity ?" "Wo did what we could. Each wrapped himself in blatffeets and quilts, binding tliese tightly around him with ropes, to which were attached bars of iron, sio that if tlie house went by the board, we might stand a chance — a slim «lie— of anchoring somewhere, somehow." Sontcwhere, indeed I When, On the following morning, I busied myself getting ready to go down the mountain, I heard a profound sigh, followed by some half-andiblB words, pro- ceeding from the adjoining room. These words rang in my ears al 1 that day : " Ah, this horrible solitude!" LIFE AT RIDEAU HALL. SINCE the advent of the Princess Louise as its mistress, more than usual curiosity has been manifested re- garding the life at Rideau Hall, the "White House" of Canada. Befcn-ethat time, if it was thought of at all, it was only as the Government House ; but since a Princess dwells thei'e, a new interest at- taches itself to the place, and it is not strange if every little American "sover- eign in her own right" should exercise her national prerogative, and ask all the questions she likes about "court life" at Ottawa. Much of this curiosity has al- ready been satisfied, for from the day the Marquis of Lome and his royal wife land- -ed upon Canadian soil, very little of the GOVERNMENT HOUSE, OTTAWA — WINTER SCENE. slightest interest concerning them has passed unnoted by the press. So popular were their predecessors. Lord and Lady Dufferin, that the jilaces which they left were difficult to fill. In- deed, I am sure there are people in Cana- da to-day who believe that they took their places with them, instead of leaving them to be filled. The Marquis and Marchion- ess of Lome took the wisest and easiest way — they retained their individuality, and created new places for themselves. //i^y\ M-Ct^ 214 HARPER'S NEW MONTHLY MAGAZINE. HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. So unaffected is the life at Rideau Hall that it shows almost a republican simplicity when compared with the cer- emony and parade kept up in many of the great country houses in England. No court etiquette is observed, and only the rules of good manners are adhered to. It is the very evident desire of the Governor-General and Princess to make all those who enter their home feel wel- come and at their ease. The public sees very little bej'ond the usual formalities surrounding the two chief personages of the Dominion. Their home life is jea- lously guarded from the world. I often think, when I see the flag which always floats over Rideau Hall when the Princess is there, what a change has come into her life. " Piccadilly and green pas- tures" — London and Ottawa. Brilliancy, art, culture, and caste — and a crude little city, struggling in the cliaos of newness and the doubt of permanency. And I fall to wondering what her feelings were that bleak November day, when she drove, just at night-fall, under the drip- ping and leafless trees, up to the door of Rideau Hall. Velvet lawns had been ex- changed for a soaked meadow turf, and a palace for a comfortable, roomy, old-fash- ioned home. The life she was leaving be- hind her had filled her aesthetic nature, and the one to which she was coming could only have as its greatest merit, in her eyes, novelty. It Avould not be very strange if she were not happy here, for if we look back over the two years she has spent with us, enough has happened to associate sorrow with Canada. The death of her favorite sister, the Princess Alice, which followed clo.sely her coming, filled the first months of her stay with grief. Of course she was surrounded with an atmosphere of sympathy, but, after all, she was sepa- rated from those who felt the grief in all its bitterness with her. But even this was only allowed to very briefly interrupt the gayeties at the Government House. She assumed these duties, and bi-avely performed them in spite of the mourning of which her face attested the sincerity. Then came the shocking accident which almost cost her her life, and which has left her in a state against which a contin- ual struggle must be made to prevent her sinking into confirmed invalidism. Of late she has been trying the effect of trav- el. During her absence Lord Lome has to a great extent supijorted her role as no-^ LIFE AT KIDEAU HALL. 21 S well as his own, iiiid during tlio Aviiitcr just passed socicly lias not wanted for en- tertainment at tlie Hall. Eoyalty is so hedged in by etiquette, that you can only upproaeli it throuj^li certain openinj^s, and in Ottawa, as else- where, these o])eninjrs do not frequently occur. Since lier Royal Hiji'hness has ])resided at Rideau Hall, even that society which the popular voice calls "the best,'" The hospitalities of Rideau Hall which are extended to the j^'enerjil public maybe enjoyed l)y ob.servinj; the f<)ll<)win;,MMiles. In Ottawa the political, judiciary,military. and clerical (lif,''nitaries have ofTicial pre- cedence, while, under the head of " ])i'oui- inent citizens," clerfjymen, lawyers, doc- tors, bankers, and heads of larffe business (irnis, luniberinfj and mininpr interests, take rank with the oflicers of the civil TIIK 1)KAWIN(!-K00M, KIDKAU HALL. has not had as free access there as former- ly. In Lady Dufferin's time the doors swunf? open easily and often. Of course then, as now, there was always the inti- mate circle of friends. This, Lady Dutfer- in cho.se from Ottawa society. Now it is chosen from Enf suinmer, promenade the ijuests. The hand of the Oovernor-Gen- *teTlpn., PKINUKSS LOUISE, MARCHIONESS OF LOKNE. .1 , .iI,JOWN30»J.i;Ci-- al gloom of male attire does not stand out en bloc, as it is broken into by the uni- forms of the Governor's aides-de-camp, which gleam here and there through the crowd. At such a time, and upon such a day, I caii imagine with what delight an artist — Raimend de Madrazo, for instance — would study the scene. Detail and ac- cessories are all there. Imagine this: Vaguely showing through the autumnal glow, over a mile away, is the background formed by the beautiful pile of govern- ment buildings resting upon the bold eral's Foot-Guards is stationed near the house, and their red coats and flashing instruments harmonize with the whole. On the broad gallery stand groups of vis- itors, while through the open windows you see a few irrepressible dancers in the parlor. After it is too late for lawn tennis and croquet, the skating and toboggan parties come, and at these young Canada is in its element. Then the daring of Canadian attire reaches its climax. No color is too brilliant and no garment too fantastic to LIFE AT KIDEAU HALL. 217 TUK MARQUIS OF LOUNE. be worn. The toboo-gau slide and vicin- ity fairly blossoms 'vvith the merry, romp- ing company. Surplus dip^nity is thrown to the winds, along' with streamers of ril)- bons, tassels, and bright-hued scarfs. A pretty Canadian girl never looks prettier than when clad in her cloak made of a fleecy white blanket (its gay border care- fully reserved as a trimming), a red or h\ue tuque perched coquettishly upon her abundant hair, its .saucy-looking tassel bobbing about at its own sweet will, and a bright-colored skirt just showing be- tween her cloak and moccasined feet. Put now a toboggan and two or three beaux at her disposal, and she is happy. She will slide all afternoon, leaving, per- haps, just a margin for a skim over the ice, and then scamper into the house, re- ])lace her moccasins, or skating boots, with slippers, throw aside her cloak, and dance until the stern law of etiquette, or the equally stei'n connnand of her chaperon, who. although kind and discreet as a chaperon sliould be, feels at last the oiniti and the interest in the approach- ing dinner hour natural to her age. ' These afternoon parties never last later than six o'clock, and a few minutes be- fore that time the last guest is usually gone. "And does the Princess Louise take part in these sliding parties ?" Yes, to a certain extent, though, know- 218 lIAKi'KKS NEW MONTllIA' MAliAZINE. iiiff her clmriu'tj'r, you ciiii n-iidily iiimIi>i* staiul that nIic only docs no a la />rin- cesHC. I luivt' lu'vei" h»'cii licr jruidc licr own tobofi^'tin, a feat He(>niin>.ly euHy »'nou' -cabin that one t'xpects to see a sta;i:e peasant step out from its door and solibxjuize npon its platform. On this j)latform chairs are arranged for the Princess and distinfj^uislKid ji^uests to rest and watch the skaters wlien they do not care to be of them. For the amusement of the Governor- (ieneral and his gentlemen friends there is a line curling rink, where the lovers of "the roarin' jrame" very often congre- fjate. Liktnvise there is a foot-ball and cricket {ground for them; but as this is a pre-eminently feminine i)iece of litera- ture, I decline to jfo outside of my prov- ince, and so say nothing .ibout the enter- tainments intended only for fjentlemen. Balls are not of very frequent occur- rence, but I can assure those who are in- terested upon that point, that when they are given, they are "perfectly lovely.'" You are bidden to one two weeks iti ad- vance by a card of impressive dimensions, bearing the monogram of the house, and which reads as follows: The Ai(k'-(1('-Ciiiii]) in waitiiifr is coinniandcd by Ills Kxa'ikMicv Tiie Govt'riK)i-(;fiK.'nil aiiil llur Jioval Highness the I'linccss boiiise to invite Mr. iind Sirs. to 11 Jiiill on , the , lit !t oVrlocl?. An answer is requested to the A.D.C. in waiting. On the appointed night the road to New Edinburgh is lined with sleighs, and by the time the gate is reached, so dense is the crowd of vehicles that the remainder of your drive is likely to occupy more time than did that part of it from the city out. Once inside the Hall, the scene whi<'h greets you is indeed oharniinfT. Up and down tbe stairs, along the brill- iantly light»'d corridors, into the leafy Hhad«> of th(t cons*'rvatory, in and out of the sevei'al hatidsotne rooms thrown open for tln^ occasion, throng the elegantly dressed guests. The ball-room is packed to sutl'ocation, and it is a terrible pilgrim- age to make to the further end, wliere the Governor-General and the Princess Lou- ise are nH-eiving their guests. When tla^ dancing iiegins, the |»ilgrimage beconu-s an impossibility, and the only thing left for you to do is to gaze hoj)elessly in their direction. Tin- dressing at one of tlx'se grand balls is elegant, and, as a rule, graceful, but when «'oni])ared with that seen upon a similar occasion at the White House, for instance, is ini'.\'])ensive. There are handsome silks, .satins, and velvets, and a few costly laces, but very few dia- monds are to be seen. As a rule, th»> la- dies are ih'colli'fecH, but there are amongst them a good many who are walls ar(» tinted in a soft dark shade, which shows oh' a brill- iantly dres.sed comjjany to the best advan- tage. The wood is finished in white and gold, and the window dra))ery is crimson. On ball nights the teiniis- court, in the wing to the right of the entrance, is used for a su])i)er-ro(Mn. Its walls and ceilings are lined with red and white bunting to simulate a tent. It, as well as the ball- room, was added in Lord Dufterin's ad- ministration, and at his recpiest. About midnight the piper is heard ])ii)ing along the corridor, and the su])per-room is thrown open. Into it the vice-regal par- ty lead the way, followed by five or six hundred of their guests, as only about that number can conveniently be served at once. The vice-regal party sit, and the rest stand. Dinnei-s are far fewer than formerly, and the diners are chosen rather more exclusively. Of course these dinners are the most ceremonious entertainments which take place. The guests enter the reception-room with the right hand hare, although they are not received by the Princess before dinner. She enters just as dinner is announced, and is escorted to the table by the gentleman who takes rank amongst the guests, the Marquis of- LIB^E AT lilDKAlJ IIAIJ.. n» f<>rin(i^ Ills iinii to on<> of tho ladioH. If tlicy lire (liiis in comiiuiiy witli Frciicli {'aiiiuliaiiM, they <'iitt'r into ('onvcrsation in Frcn<-li, as botli s|)(>ak it well and tliicnt- ly. After dineicr, wlu'ii the company re- turns to the (Irawinjf-rooin, the I'rineess ))U88eH about amongst her (Quests, H))eaic \\\r^ rr".-.- '^'=^:.-;.- "'""ISmk*--. < nlJ. IILLI. UllAWINCi-KOOM, KUlKAL llAl.l.. and their .irranjjoment calls foi'th the ffroiitost ailinirution. New scenory has been i)aiiit('il, uiulci' Uie supervision of the Princess, and altogether the stage is a lit- tle gem. The most public appeai'ance of the Prin- cess in Ottawa society is upon the evening after the opening of Parliament, when she holds a "Drawing-room" in tiie Senate- chamber. This reception is also a full- dress affair, and whoever wishes may at- tend. The Governor-General and his wife stand upon the dais at one end of the chamber, and the guests approach and are introduced by one aide-de-camp, who has had the name read to liim by another from the card with which each guest is provided. As the name is pronounced, the Princess and Marquis simply bow, un- less it should belong to some person of suflicient distinction, when they otf er their hands and speak a few words with him. After the introduction the guests pass out by a door to the right of the dais, and so can quit the apartment without turning their backs upon royalty— a thing which is, of course, never done. The "Drawing- room" is usually over by ten o'clock. For- merly there were afternoon receptions, somewhat similar to tliost^ at the White House, which could be attended by any one who wished. These have been dis- continued, and all parties are now formed of invited guests. This change is solely owing to the increasing numbers who now yearly come to Ottawa. Sonu' idea of the number of guests en- tertained in various ways at Rideau Hall since Lord Loriu; has been Governor-Gen- eral may be gained by the following fig- ures: At dinner parties in 1879 904 " " " 1880 688 " " " 1881 627 At balls in 1879 1000 " " 1881 1600 At " At Ilonies" each year 900 At .skating and tobogganing parties, eacli year 2000 At theatricals, each year 1300 On New- Year's Day the Governor-Gen- eral follows the custom of his predecessors in x-eceiving all who come to wish him a happy New Year, and these receptions are quite as informal as those of the President at the White House. He is also always willing to see any one who asks to see LIFE AT KIDEAU HALL, 891 hitii oil hiisiiirss at any tiiiic, and so cor dial in his iiiaiin*>r in tlifsf interviews, and HO di'li^rhtfiii a, talker is he, that occuHioii- ally his calhti* luses HiKlit of husiiiess in friendly chat. While I'arliainent is silting', the Prin- cess often occnpies acliair near the Spi-ak er on the lioor of the House of Com mo ns, an inlert'sted listener to tho debate npon some iinpoi-tant hill. At such times she oti'ers her iiaiid and chats cordially witli those niemliers who approach to spe.ik to her. She is always attended hy a huly ill waitiii}; mid an aide-de-camp. She is, like so many En<,'Iisli women, a jfood walker and a fair rider, and durinjj^ lier Urst wintoi' here hIio could bo met al- most any day miles away from her lioine. Sh(( "did" much of the vicinity of Olljiwa on foot, always .sf ».s/7*/// shod and dressed, and in slipptiry weather carryin>jf a caiio. Almost invariably she wears a veil It has been the subject of nmcli comment, and the curious often complain that the imblic never see.s licr face. Her reason for wearinu often see her abroad with Ihm- sketch-book, tilling it with souvenirs of her Canadian home. She has a snug little sketching box, which can be whisked abor.t from place to place as she desires it. Fortu- nately for one of her artistic nature s1h» lives in a region surrounded by loveliest views, and whichever way the eye turn.s, it is gladdened by .some picture never to l»e forgotten. The Princess is a communicant at St. Bartholomew's, tho little Englisli church THEATRICALS IN THE BALL-ROOM. 222 HARPER'S NEW MONTHLY MAGAZINE. rRIN'CKSS LOUISK S SKKT(IIIN(i HOX. at New Edinburg'li, which stands near the grounds (the rector of which is chapUiin for Ridean Hall), wliile the Marquis of Lome conies into the city, and is a reguhir attend- ant at "tlie kirk." Her Royal Highness has ahvays taken an active interest in church affairs, and to her the little church is indebted for a tine chime of bells. The children of the Sunday-school are regular- ly entertained at the Hall with a Christ- mas tree and party. She visits hospitals, schools, and convents, and carries on all the work of a charitable lady in ])rivate life. Much of her good work is done in a quiet, unostentatious maimer, which fully carries out the Biblical injunction; but a princess can not hide from the pub- lic the work of one hand, even if she can keep it a secret from the other, and so we from time to time catch a glimpse of her true, kind heart. All of these public duties do not inter- fere with those of a more domestic char- acter. She, of course, has a small army of servants. There is a chef^ and tin gar- qon de chef, and I would be afraid to say how many more pour fair e la cuisine; there are maid-servants and men-servants for each ])articular kind of work, and a housekeeper to oversee theju nil. But, in spite of much iiid. the Marchione.ss of Lome is at the head of her establishment. She does not think it benciitli her dignity to go into the laundry and instruct the maids concerning their duties, or to give an occasional eye to the marketing when it is brought in. A story I have just iKvird al)out her makes her ()uite rival in housewifely attainments the (jueen of good King Stephen, who, from the " peck ()' barley meal," (•f)ncocted that historical l)udding .so well known to the student of Mother Goose. A frieiul of min(^ was lately dining at Rideau Hall, and during the diiiiu'r she renuu'ked upon tlu; excel- lence of the oyster pdtes to one of the Indies in waiting to the Princess. "Yes," she 1 •])lied; "they were made by her Royal Highness." The immediate household at Govern- ment House consists of two or three ladies in waiting and several aides-de-camp. The military secretary and his wife occupy a handsome house near by, whei'e the Prin- cess often calls informally, or takes a five- o'clock " school-i'oom tea" with the sec- retary's children. Rideau Hall in every ])art shows itself to be the home of an artist and a poet. An air of culture and refinement pervades it, and whichever way you turn you are de- lighted by some pretty conceit, or tasteful fancy successfully carried out. Here are old tapestry hangings, as rich with his- tory and associations as color and skill. Exquisite ornaments are scattered about in profusion, but iu>t with that riotous plenty which simjdy suggests money. The "blue parlor" is, to my taste, one of the most charming rooms I can recall. It is a large and handsome a])artment, and is furnished upon the happy meeting ground of classical severity and elegant luxuriousness. It is essentially feminine in its taste, and you at once say to your- self, "It is the expression of the artist.''' About you you feel much of its presiding genius. Here is a panel of flowers, and here a door decorated by her brush; an unfinished study hangs in one corner, and rare paintings glow upon the walls. Sit- ting before the bright coal lire on a win- ter day, you can look out through the warmly draped windows upon a driving snow-storm, or, if you turn slightly, you can look into the fairy land of flowers, for the conservatory opens from this room. tin th( LIFE AT RIDEAU HALL. 223 just Next to till- blue parlor is tlio liln-ury. u Hunn and ratlicr siirprisiii','' lil)i'ary, with nonti ol" tlif coiivi'iitional solidity of fur- iiisliiny which one naturally associates with i)ooks. It is pretty and simple, in whit(^ and Hreen. With the exception of pei'haps tliese two rooms, the color throuj^liout the Hall is crimson. Perhaps no better could be cliosen. It is a stately color, and glows with a perpetual warmth which our long Canadian winters make acceptable. Louise we kiu-w better as a clever artist than as a princess. So we were prepared, in anticii)ating their coming, for a more exalted and refined life than Canadian so- ciety had yet known, and our anticipa- tions have not been disappointed. Two years is a short time, but it has been long enough to establish upon a sub- .stantial foundation a luitional academy of arts and several art schools in Canada, and wluit is, perhaps, still more to the point, to implant a respect for mental su- PKIMCESS LOUISE'S UOL'UUIU. I have only written of (hat life in which the gay W'orld is interested ; but there is anotlier and higher life lived at Rideau Hall, and I doubt if cither the Mai"quis of Lome or her Royal Highness knows how wide -spread its influence is. Its spirit does more toward awakening it desire for mental improvement than anything else could. Years ago we knew our present Governor-General as a writer who did not have to call his rank to his aid to gain admittance to the literary world, and be- fore him we had learned the cbai'acter of the house of Argyll. While the Princess ])eriority in all dei)artnumts. Like all j)eople who are true to their tastes, and who are hajipy enough to have the means,' they have ojiened and smoothed ways in which to advance those who are less for- tunatelj' placed. They have sent young artists abroad, generously patronized those already before the public, and fostered education in many ways. With this kindly spirit and good work the present Governor-General and his wife will have marked their stay in Canada with a char- acteristic iniliience which will be felt for many years to come.