; Baggage & Boots; OR, SMITH'S FIEST PEEP AT AMERICA. AN INSTRUCTIVE TALE OF TRAVEL AND ADVENTURE, ^hlriy-ttlne IUu$tt{ation$. PUBLISHED FOR THE AUTHOR BY THE SUNDAY SCHOOL UNION, 66, OLD BAILEY, LONDON, E.G. 1883. PBEFACE. In the lollowiBg pages I have endeavoured to give a brief sketch of a tour in the United States of America, together with some description of the peculiarities (from an Englishman's point of view), in the hotels, modes of conveyance, travelling, manners and customs, &c., of our American Cousins. It is hoped that the younger members of society, for whom the narrative has chiefly been written, will find much in it to interest, instruct and amuse ; and if they wiU take the trouble to follow the course of our Tourist on a good map, cannot fail to add to their geographical knowledge. Geography learnt in this way, i.e., associating the localities with a good descriptive narrative of actual personal experience, is probably more firmly fixed in the memory, than in any other, with perhaps the single exception of visiting the places one*s-self ; while certainly the former has the advantage of being by far the cheapest mode of the two. The description of some of the great American high and a VI. PREFACE. low pressure river steamboats, also of the telegraph, telephone, and fire-engine arrangements, will, I hope, prove of general interest. Possibly in no one thing is the difference between the English and the Americans so marked, as in our respective rail- road arrangements, and as this is a subject in which so many take an interest, I hope the reader will forgive the large amount of space I have devoted to it, and things incidental thereto, such as the American system of jobbing railroad tickets, known as " Scalping." Should any of my readers be contemplating taking a trip across the Atlantic themselves, the information on the above subjects, together with that concern- ing the hotel accommodation and charges, the time occupied on various journeys, fares, &c., will, I trust, prove of advantage to them. Some of the illustrations have appeared previously in ** Picturesque America '' ; and are reproduced here by permission of the publishers of that work. ^ A word of explanation ought perhaps to be given with regard to the title selected for this book. Sometimes a very small thing is capable of causing a great amount of vexation. The two things that annoyed our Tourist, more possibly than anything else, were, the great nuisance he found it, to be encumbered PREFACE. Vll. with more luggage tlian he could carry in his hand — in America invariably called '' baggage'^ — and the price expected by the street shoeblacks — over there called " shiners " — for their work. Of course these charges form but a small item in the cost of a lengthy tour ; but sometimes little things of this kind cause as much annoyance and irritation, as some far more substantial grievance. A. B. 93, EVERING-ROAD, LoNDON, X. June, 1883. p ONTENTS. PA OK CHAPTER L IKTEODUCl'OEY . ^ CHAPTER II. ' DEPAHTUKW . . . . .18 CHAPTER III. LIFE ON THE OCIIAN WAVK 20 CHAPTER IV. FIRST DAY IN NKW YOIiK . 41 CHAl^ER V. NEW YORK ELKVATED RAIL-ROAD, ETC 59 CHAPTER VI. NEW YORK AND SU CURBS, ETC. . . . . . . . . 77 CHAPTER VII. AMERICAN HOME LIFE, ETC . 90 CHAPTER VIII. AMERICAN en irRGHES AND SUNDAY SCHOOLS . . . . . 108 CHAPTER IX. AMERICAN UAIL-IiOAD TRAINS, ETC.— PHILADELPHIA . . . 110 CHAPTER X. PHILADELPHIA AND BALTIMORE 128 CONTENTS. IX. PAGX CHAPTER XI. WASHINGTON 140 CHAPTER XII. VIRGINIA AND WEST VIRGINIA, THE OHIO niVEB, ETC. , . . 158 CHAPTER XIII. CINCINNATI AND LOUISVILLE , .171 CHAPTER XIY. THE MAMMOTH CAVE. — THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER . . , .192 CHAPTER XV. ST. ^OUIS— PUBLIC BUILDINGS— MANNERS AND CUSTOMS, ETC. . . 211 CHAPTER XVI. A NIGHT IX A PULMAN PALACE SLEEPING CAR— RAIL-ROAD TICKET "scalpers" — CHICAGO, allOS "PORCOPOLIS" — PT'Li-KILLING AND PORK-PACKING . 225 CHAPTER XVII. the telephone : its universal use — GRAIN ELEVATORS — LAKE MICHIGAN— MILWAUK IE— GRAND HAVEN, ETC. . . . 243 CHAPTER XVIII. DETROIT, CLEVELAND, ERIE, ETC 256 CHAPTER XIX. BUFFALO— NIAGARA FALLS , . 268 CHAPTER XX. ABOVE AND BELOW NIAGARA FALLS — PLACES OF INTEREST IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD — THE BURNING SPRING, ETC. • . 283 X. CONTENTS. PAGE. CHAPTER XXI. LAKE CHAMPLAIN — THE AU-SABLE CHASai— LAKE GEORGE —SARATOGA — ALBANY — THE HUDSON EIVEIl 30S CHAPTER XXII. CONEY ISLAND — FALL RIVER — MARTHA*S VINEYARD — NANTUCKET . 328 CHAPTER XXIII. BOSTON : PUBLIC BUILDINGS, ETC. — PLYMOUTH AND THE PILGRIM FATHERS 340 CHAPTER XXIY. HOMEWARD BOUND — FAVOURITE SHIPBOARD GAMES— CONVERSATION ABOUT MONTREAL AND LOWER CANADA, ETC 355 CHAPTER XXV. A CONVERSATION ABOUT THE ORANGEMEN, AND FRENCH AND IRISH ROMAN CATHOLICS OF LOWER CANADA, ETC. , . . .375 ^ CHAPTER XXVI. ARRIVAL IN OLD ENGLAND AGAIN — CONCLUSION . 391 ^ 1ST OF jLLUSTRATiONS. TKAXSATLANTIC MAIL STEAMER *' BRITANNIC GRAND SALOON OF ** BRITANNIC '* PROMENADE DECK OF DITTO . GRAND STAIRCASE OP DITTO . NEW YORK ELEVATED RAIL-ROAD NEW YORK — **HIGH BRIDGE" OVER THE HARLEM RIVER NEW YORK FERRY STEAMER NEAV YORK — BLACKWELL's ISLAND AN AMERICAN TRAIN PHILADELPHIA — CHESTNUT STREET PHILADELPHIA — GIRARD COLLEGE WASHINGTON — VIEW OF "THE CAPITOL " WASHINGTON — VIEW OF THE U. S. TREASURY. WASHINGTON — THE WHITE HOUSE . WASHINGTON—THE WHITE HOUSE (BACK VIEW) WASHINGTON— THE SMIIHSONIAN INSTITUTE . OHIO RIVER STEAMER LOUISVILLE RAIL-ROAD BRIDGE NEW ALBANY . THE MAMMOTH CAVE MiCfllSSIPPI RIVER STEAMER ST. LOUIS CHICAGO— GENERAL VIEW CHICAGO— GENERAL VIEW FROM LAKE MICHIGAN PAGE 19 2i i:j . 40 . 64 . 67 . 78 . 99 . 115 . 120 . 121 Frontispiece . 146 . 149 . 151 . 152 . 167 . 180 . 187 . 197 . 207 . 213 . 231 . 252 Xil. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. BUFFALO — DISCHARGING GRAIN FROM STEAMER BUFFALO — AT NIGHT NIAGARA FALLS— GENERAL VIEW . NIAGARA RIVER RAIL-ROAD SUSPENSION BRIDGE NIAGARA— CAVE OF WINDS AND BIDDLE's STAIRS THE AU-SABLE CHASM LAKE ST. GEORGE— FORT WILLIAM HENRY HOTEL HUDSON RIVER — THE PALISADES . . HELL GATE — EAST RIVER, NEAV YORK BOSTON — GENERAL VIEW .... BOSTON — STATE HOUSE OF MASSACHUSETTS . i BOSTON — FANEUIL HALL ..... BOSTON — bunker's HILL MONUMENT SMOKING ROOM ON ATLANTIC STEAMER . QUEBEC — DURHAM TERRACE . . . rAGS . 269 . 273 . 287 . 295 . 300 . 310 . 314 . 325 . 335 . 341 . 343 . 345 . 347 . 359 . 384 Ir BAGGAGE AND BOOTS; ■ OB, SMITH'S FIEST PEEP AT AMERICA ■♦•♦-♦- CHAPTER I. Which tells how Smith came to go — He loses his situation —Is un- successful in obtaining another — Visits his friend Will Brown, who advises him to take an American tour — Determines to go — Engages a berth on Ocean Steamer — General preparations. SMITH' felt in an awfully bad humour, and dis- inclined to be sociable and agreeable with anybody or anything. The fact was, he was out of a situation, and was learning by aggravating experience that '^ remunerative situations are more easily lost than dbtainecV^ Every day thousands of men and women, and younger persons too, are finding out the truth of this statement, and with very many their troubles are embittered by the consciousness that it is entirely through their own fault that they have lost their previous engagements, and are now wearing out feet and shoe-leather, brains and temper, in their search for another. B 10 Baggage and Boots ; oVy ♦ With Smith, however, this was not the case. Although, hke most other people, he had had many things to put up with that he did not like, he had long ago determined that it should have to be something very serious indeed amiss before he would take umbrage at it, as he thoroughly believed in the truth of the old proverb which advises people not to quarrel with their bread and butter. For all that, he was quite alive to better his position, and always on the look out vvith that end in view, but was nevertheless determined not to leave his employment of his own accord until he had the definite offer of a better one. Notwithstanding all this our friend was out of a situation. To do him justice it w^as through no fault of his own. It came about throuorh the laro^e commercial house, in whoso service he had been for several years, failing in business. In consequence, the employees, high and low, one and all, received nocice that their valued services were no longer required ; and our friend Smith had, of course, to depart with the rest. Since then, for some wrecks, he had been seeking another appointment, but it seemed a futile undertaking. Each day he returned to his apartments with the word " Disappointment " plainly marked upon his brow. Every morning he searched the columns of " Situations Vacant " in the daily papers. Wherever he applied personally he found dozens of others, each eager after the place ; some of them, even in spite of a good education (which used thirty years ago to be considered the unfailing stepping-stone to success), evidently so Smitlis First Peep at America, 11 very hard up that they would gladly accept anything ; even at a remuneration so small that it would go but little further than providing them with a good meal to comfort them internally and a new suit of clothes to comfort them without. Smith, who had of late been receiving a rery respect- able «;alary, soon grew tired of applying after places wher he saw so many others waiting for an '^ interview,'* as, even when he was in every other respect fully qualified to undertake the duties required, he was in- variably underbid as regards remuneration by others more hungry than himself; who had never laid by against a rainy day ; perhaps had never had a chance of doing so. Many of the advertisements read, " Apply by letter only, stating full particulars" — ^'No personal applications attended to/' &c., &c. Even :n answering these Smith was no more successful. To some seventy -seven letters he wrote,he only received answers from three. The first offered a salary of just one fourth the amount he had recently been receivino; ; the second less still, the advertiser at the same time intima- ting that he had received over a hundred applications for the vacancy, and that the remuneration he named would command the markets considering: the very de- pressed state o^ trade, &c. With the third there was no such difficulty as regards wages, as that was put at a very tempting figure. The objection here rose from quite another cause. The letter stated that Messrs. Try- it-on. Catch & Bolt, wanted a gentleman for a place of great responsibility^ previous knowledge of the 12 Baggage and Boots ; or, business was not necessary, but as ifc was a place of trust they required a small deposit of £200 to be placed in their hands as a security. Smith, however, had earned his money slowly, and did not feel inclined to deposit £200 of it in anybody's hands as a security against defalcations, until he had satisfied himself that the parties he deposited it with were not themselves defaulters. Although well acquainted (by name at least) with most of the city houses he did not remember ever having heard of Messrs. Try-it-on, Catch & Bolt, so turned to find the name in the London Directory ; but he searched in vain, for that firm had only taken a single room on the 3rd floor of a building of city offices the day they inserted the advertisement which brought them in communication with our friend. There was one more resource left open to Smith, viz. to advertise for a situation, which he did. The result, however, was much about the same. To a series of ex- pensive advertisements he only obtained six answers, iive of them from agents requesting particulars of his requirements for insertion in their books, the other from the proprietor of a small grocery shop, trying to increase his trade by calling the place a co-operative store, which, however, was merely the private adventure of a small tradesman already on the verge of bankruptcy. As he did not know this at first, he went to the ^* manager " (?) and learnt that the hours of business at the ^^ store" were from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m.^ Saturdays till midnight ; and that the w^ages paid were in inverse ratio to the time and labour expected of the assistants. Smith" s First Peep at America, 13 He could not submit to those terms, so wished the proprietor " Good-day," and walked out. And so at the end of April he found himself just where he was two months before, so far at least as obtaining remunerative employment went. We commenced by stating that Smith was in an awfully bad humour ; and so indeed he was ; as he walked slowly home from the interview with the " manager " of the ''store "just alluded to, soliloquising by the way on the dulness of trade and things in general, and on his own misfortunes in particular. On arriving at his apartmenrs, he found a letter waiting for him, which proved to be an invitation from an old schoolfellow, William Brown, urging him to- come round and spend the evening at his house. At first he felt little inclined to do so ; but, on second con- sideration, he thought that possibly his friend might have heard of a vacant situation that he wished to tell him about ; so he determined to go. On reaching Mr. Brown's house, his friend opened the door to him, himself. '' Well, John, old chap, how pale you look ; here, let me hang your hat and coat up. Now, steD into the parlour. I'm afraid you're not well." '* No, indeed, I know I am not in my temper — that is very bad indeed." " How comes that about ? " laughingly said his friend. *' Why ! through trudging one's legs off, and wearing one's fingers and brains out, answering useless adver- tisements." " Is that conducive to a bad temper? " asked Brown. "Indeed, Will, it is," replied Smith, "and if you ever 14 Baggage and Boots ; or, go through the same experiences that I have had during the last eight weeks, pardon my saying, I think that you, or any one else, would catch the disease." " Well, perhaps I should, but now I have a sugges- tion to make," " Oh ! I am glad of that," he said, brightening up. " What is it ? Have you heard of anything you think mio^ht suit me?" ^' No, it is not that ; and even if I had, you do not seem to me to be in a fit state of health to do anything. My idea is that you should give up all thoughts of looking for a situation, for the present, while trade continues in such a depressed state, and in the meantime take a tour throuorh the United States and Canada, the same as I did a few vears aejo." "Oh, but look at the expense." " The cost will not ruin you. It is not a tour that you will be wanting to take every year ; and even if it was, you might not be in a position to do so. You would, in all probability, be engaged in business, and unable to leave for several months right off. Or you might have entered into the state of matrimonial bliss, as I have now done ; in which case you would find the expense vastly increased were you to take your wife and family, and perhaps after all they would not care to go." "Well, I should enjoy the trip, Fm certain of that." '^ Yes, indeed, old boy, I know you would ; and while you are away I will keep a good look oat ; and if I see anything going in your line, I will endeavour to secure it for you till you come back." SmitJCs First Peep at America. 15 " Many thanks. Will ; youVe a right down good old friend to me." " And when you get- back trade will be better ; and the remuneration better ; and your health better ; and the bad temper you complained of — well ! I don't know about that, as on that score you appear to me to be well already." And so it was definitely arranged that Smith should leave off searching the daily papers for vacant situations, and instead, set to work and make the necessary prepa- rations incident to a four-months' tour, away from home. One of the first things he had to do was to engage a berth on one of the Ocean Steamers crossing the Atlantic. A choice of routes presented themselves. He could start either from London, Southampton, Bristol, Liverpool, or Glasgow ; and could select, as his port of entry into the New World, either Quebec, St. John's, Halifax, Boston, New York, Philadelphia, or Baltimore. The largest and most superbly-fitted passenger steamers afloat sail between Liverpool and New York ; and as Smith thought it probable he might never go again, he made up his mind to pay the highest price, and cross in one of the best. He chose the White Star Line ; and called at the London office to select a berth in their vessel, sail in or the folio win or week. To his astonishment he found that all the best rooms had already been taken, and that in order to secure a good one by any of the leading lines, it is necessary to book your berth a month or fo in advance. As Smith was going entirely for pleasure, there was 16 Baggage and Boots ; or no necessity for him to cross on that particular date ; so, instead of taking a berth he felt sure he would not like, he postponed the date of his departure a week or two, and selected a berth on the " Britannic," whose departure was fixed for the following Thursday three- weeks. Besides calling at the steamboat office, he had also to visit his hosier, boot-maker, hatter, and tailor ; cautioning the latter, in particular, that he wanted some clothing of the lightest possible description, as, although the winter in the northern states is so rigorous, the heat in summer is far greater than anything experienced in England. During the interval that elapsed between finally deciding upon taking the tour and actually starting. Smith called several times upon his friend William Brown, as he was naturally anxious to obtain from him any information that might prove of service, and which his friend was of course very willing to impart. Among other things be recommended him to take a folding-cane, or carpet-garden chair, for use on the ocean voyage, and which he would have no trouble with while touring from place to place in the States, as on arrival at New York he need not take it from the quay, as he could book it there, and leave it with the company, who would take care of it until he returned, free of charge. At Brown's suggestion also, before the day of sailing came, he called at the Bank, and obtained through the manac^er a Banker's circular letter of credit, so as to be able to draw small sums of money from diflferent banks in the various American cities Smithes First Peep at America. 17 he purposed visiting, as he should require it. This arrangement obviated the undesirable necessity of cai:}nJ2; large sums of mo:.ey about with him when travelhng. ■jt * ♦ ♦ In the following chapters we will describe Smith's adventures, and the impressions that his American tour made upon him in his ovm words, as related to the author by him on his return to England, CHAPTER II. Off at last — Euston Square — Prince's Landing Stage, Liverpool — Ocean Steamer, *' Britannic" — Reception of saloon passengers — Adieu to friends — Smith and his '^ Cvmpagnonde voyage'^ introduce themselves to each other — American cutlery — The first meal — Seats at Table — Arrangement of state-rooms and sleeping berths — Robinson's request, as he sleeps in the lower berth — Noise of machinery — Breakfast — Queenstown Harbour — Waiting for the Mail from London — It arrives, and more passengers — The ** Britannic " departs. T^^HE day of departure arrived in due course. After -■- breakfast I settled up with my landlady, and entered the cab which the servant-girl had called from a neighbouring rank. My luggage consisted of two portmanteaux, and the steamer chair (that I had been advised to take). * As the cab drove off Mrs. Brown waved a last good- bye, and twenty minutes later I found myself at Euston Square Terminus. A six hours' train ride landed me at Lime-street Station, Liverpool ; and another cab ride of ten or twelve minutes conveyed me to the Prince's Landing Stage. This, together with the adjoining St. George's Stage, forms the longest and largest floating stage in the world. Several ocean steamers were lying in the stream, all about to sail with the tide. The steam tenders of the various companies were moored along the Prince's Landing Stage waiting to convey passengers and their luggage to their respective ships. Punctually to time ■A 7* QQ 02 o a> a a bo •3 «9 f ^ SmitJCs First Peep at America. 21 one of the '^ White Star" Company's tenders left the wharf with their passengers and friends, the luggage following in another. The " Britannic " looked very- grand as she lay in the river; so majestic and motionless, that it seemed impossible that any sea, however stormy, could have much effect on her. The steerage passengers, numbering several hundreds, were already there, they having been conveyed on board some hours before. The ship's officers were standing near the gangway to receive the passengers as they came on deck, and stepped forward and fchook hands with several they recognised as having crossed with them before. The two dozen or so stewards all looked very prim, in their dark blue suits, with gilt buttons, as they stood in single file all together, drawn up in regimental order. The passengers for the most part made at once for the companion way, and down stairs ; and after a peep at the grand saloon, went off in search of their various state-rooms in order to dispose of small handbags, umbrellas, &c., out of the way. In about ten minu^s a bell rang for those who had only come to see friends off to return to the tender ; and in a few minutes more they were conveyed back to the shore. It took nearly an hour to get all the luggage on deck, from off the other tender; the last being put on board a few minutes after five, when the signal was immediately given to steam ahead slowly. Soon after starting I went below, and found that the children, among the passengers, and their attendants 22 Baggage and Boots ; or^ were having their evening meal. At 5.30 p.m. a gong was sounded for the other passengers to prepare for dinner ; so I went to my state-room, as I was wanting to have a good wash after my long railway journey. I was also anxious to ascertain who my ^^ compagiion de voyage *' wa: to be, as each state-room has at the least two berths in it, so that unless you have a friend with you, or pay a fare and a half to secure the room to your- self, you have to share it with a stranger ; and the comfort of the voyage depends very much on what sort of person he happens to be, and whether he is a good sailor, or given to '' mal-de-mer,'*^ Since I first peeped into my room on coming on board, someone else had evidently been there, for I now found in the lower berth a leather hat-box, and a small travelling box, both labelled, " J.. H. Eobinson^ Sheffield." While I was arranging things in general, and my own toilet in particular, a gentleman peeped in at the door. " "Mr. Robinson, I presume," I said. " Yes, that is my name, how did you know?" '^ Why, I see it there, on your luggage, and since you and I have got to share the same cabin together for the next ten days, whether we like each other or not, I think we had better shake hands and be friends at once." "With all my heart." " I see your luggage is marked ^ Sheffield :' I lived in Sheffield, for a short time, some few years ago ; are you in business there ?" " Not for myself, I am travelling for a cutlery firm there." SviitJCs First Peep at America, 23 " Why, is there much English cutlery sold in the States ?" " Yes, a good deal." *^ Why, I thought the Yankees were so clever that they cut us out of the market altogether, with their hatchet heads, and the like." " Oh well, I don't know. It is table cutlery, almost exclusively, that our firm goes in for, and if you come across a dinner knife at any of the hotels there that will cut, you may be sure it comes from England. Why, you might just as well try to shave with a wooden razor as to cut hot bread, or even meat, with an American made knife." *^ Well, I should not have thought it." " But I am hindering you, and as there is not room in this scrap of a cabin for both of us to dress at the same time, I will leave you now and return again in a few minutes." The ship's purser appointed the passengers their seats at table. Of course he did his best to accommo- date those who had a preference for any particular seat. The passengers keep the same seat at each meal during the voyage. As I had never been on an ocean voyage before, and did not know how I should stand it, I selected a seat as near the centre of the ship as I could. I thought that, if the ship rolled much, I should have less motion to withstand there than at the side of the vessel. I also chose a seat at the end of one of the tables, near one of the doors of the saloon, in order that I might slip out and on deck easily, should I be com- pelled to do so. I found, however, that there was no 24 Baggage and Boots ; or^ need to select an end seat in order the more easily to leave the table, as each passenger had an arm chair to himself or herself, which turned on a pivot like a music stool, so that wherever your seat might be, you co uld come or go without disturbing your neighbours. THE Grand Saloon op S. S. " Britannic." At six o'clock the gong sounded again for dinner, when a goodly company assembled and an excellent repast was served,equal in every respect to the tahle dlwte at any first-class hotel on shore. It lasted for about an hour, after which most of the passengers found their way to the promenade deck ; folding chairs were got out, and their owners made themselves easy, resting comfortably there in the light of the setting sun, and SmitJCs First Peep at America, 23 breathing in the pure sea air ; while others preferred to walk up and down, or to gaze upon the Welsh moun- tains on the port horizon,the summits of which the solar orb was tinging with his setting rays. As it got dark the passengers, one by one, went below, and most of them turned in early to bed. It was a splendid moon- light night, and the good ship steamed across St. George's Channel as steadily as if it were but a river, although there w^as a strong westerly wind blowing. When I retired to rest I thought I should have little chance of sleeping with those engines going bump, bump, bump, bump, incessantly. But Robinson com- forted me by saying that I would soon get used to the noise. " Have you noticed those push stops to ring for the steward if you want him ?" asked Robinson. " Yes," I replied ; " What a fine idea it is to have an . electric bell to each berth, and fixed so nicely, too, so that you can ring it as you lie in bed." " Yes ; but what I wanted to say was this, if you fee! at all ill in the night, please do not hesitate to ring for the steward at <9?2C^, because remember I am in the berth underneath you." •^ All right ; that was the only consolation I had when I found that I w^as unable to get a lower berth ; viz., that should we be both ill, I am on the top, and someone else below. A true case of top sawyer, I think you might call it." " Oh, well, I hope we shall neither of us be troubled that way, though, speaking for myself, I feel rather doubtful." c 26 Baggage and Boots ; or, Having bid good-night to my companion, I tried to go to sleep, but the bumping noise made by the engines kept me awake for a long time. The sensation, as heard and felt in my state-room, could best be imitated by knocking on the centre of your dining-room table with your closed fists at the rate of some seven thumps in two seconds. At last, how^ever, Morpheus had pity on me, overcame all obstacles, and took me into his arms. When I opened my eyes the following morning I could see, as I lay in ray berth, we were coasting along the South of Ireland. Not feeling inclined to get up just then I turned over and tried to go to sleep again. Presently, however, I heard the "getting-up gong"sound ; the noise got louder and louder until it was evidently being sounded just outside my room. "Halloa!" thought I, "it's eight o'clock, I had better get up." So scrambling down from my little shelf, I dressed myse?f quickly, and was able to go for a short walk on deck, before the breakfast gong went at 8.30. After breakfast a mail bag was hung up in the saloon, and a good many of the passengers set to work letter-writing, as it would be the last opportunity they would have of communicating with their friends for some time. The letter writing was not all on love affairs, some -were evidently writing on business matters, &c. At 10 a.m. the " Britannic " entered Queenstown Harbour, and soon after dropped anchor, about a mile and a half from the wharf. The company's tender came alongside and those of the saloon passengers that liked Smith's First Peep at America, 27 were allowed to go on shore, as they had to wait there for the mails from London and the Continent, which were not due until 3.30 p.m. Most of the passengers availed themselves of this opportunity to see a little of Queenstown. The most prominent building is the Roman Catholic Cathedral, which stands out well on the side of a hill, sloping down to the bay. Queenstown is but a small place comparatively speaking. A good many of the passengers took the 11.30 a.m. boat up to Cork, returning from that city by the train that brought the mails. The train was late in arriving the mail matter being unusually heavy in consequence of havinor the New Zealand as well as the usual American letter bags. This resulted in a still further delay in transferring them from the train to three large carts, and again from the carts to the steamship tender, there being no less than 216 sacks; so that it was nearly five o'clock before we left the wharf. As soon as the officers of the " Britannic " saw the tender coming, the vessel was got under way ; and steamed slowly ahead. The tender overtook her, was lashed alongside, and mails and passengers were transferred without any delay as they both continued steaming ahead. The most interestincr sack was a small one containinor letters for the passengers and crew of the " Britannic " which was opened immediately, distributed, and in some cases answers actually written and popped into the mail bag (which was still hanging in the saloon) before it was tied up and given to the agent who returned with it to Queenstown in the tender. I noticed a sailor taking down a flag with the number 28 Baggage and Boots, &c. 36 on it ; and found, on enquiring, that it was the num- ber of the pilot we had on board, and whose boat, with five men in it, was being towed alongside, ready to take him to the shore as soon as we were once more in open sea. The 6 o'clock gong having sounded for dinner, the passengers went below. I determined to go in for a right down substantial dinner, as I had some misgivings that it might be the last meal that I would perhaps feel well enough to take for the next day or two. Judging^ from appearances I was by no means alone in my opinion. An hour afterwards, when the passengers began to re-appear on deck, the pilot boat was no longer alongside, the pilot having completed his duties, and returned to the shore. CHAPTER III. On the Atlantic ocean — Sunday at sea — Table racks — Church Service — After all, a lonely path — A. sail in sight — Steam versus wind — Description of the " Britannic" — How passengers fare — Calm and mist— The steam fog-horn — The value of a thermometer — Icebergs — Remedies for sea-sickness — Sails in sight — The New York pilot — The news— Fire Island Lighthouse — Crossing the bar — Anchor dropped — All to bed. TITHEN I awoke the following morning, I could ' tell without doubt that I was at last upon the ocean, and no mistake. Every few seconds the great Atlantic waves came sweeping along the side of the vessel, smothering the closed port holes, although only for an instant. There was a stiff westerly breeze and the long heavy ocean swell caused even the " Britannic " to pitch very considerably. All day the ship continued to steam against a strong head wind ; the spray from the water that came over the bows being sometimes blown as much as 200 feet before it fell on the promenade deck. The noon-day observations showed a distance run of 271 knots from Queenstown. The next day was Sunday. The " Britannic " was now no longer pitching fore and aft, but rolling tremendously in the trough of the sea. On entering the saloon I found that the '* racks" had been put on the tables. These are an apparatus to prevent the plates and dishes from slipping off during meals. Notwithstanding this, a good deal of glass and china 30 Baggage and Boots ; or^ came to grief during the day. At half past ten, the ship's bell tolled for a few minutes for service, which was held in the saloon ; permission being given to those among the steerage passengers who wished to attend. Only three, however, availed themselves of the oppor- tunity to do so. Church of England prayers were read by the purser, and the doctor read the lessons for the day ; two hymns were sung, and at the close a collection taken up for the Liverpool Sailors' Orphanage. There were about sixty-five passengers present altogether, and there was no other service whatever for the rest of the day. The usual midday observations showed a run of 302 knots (about 340 miles) since the previous noon. Although there is such an enormous traffic between England and America, yet by Monday afternoon I had come to the conclusion that notwithstanding, it was, after all, a very lonely path to traverse, as I had not seen a vessel of any kind since the day we left Queenstown. Soon, however, one of the passengers came down to the saloon and announced " A sail in sight." Slight as the announcement was, it took all Ae passengers on deck. I looked round but could see nothing but sea and sky until a tiny speck was pointed out to me on the far horizon, miles ahead. " Why ! what a tiny thing to be out in mid-Atlantic. It can't be larger than a small fishing smack with a lug sail." A quartermaster who was standing by, over- heard the remark, and I saw that he was evidently much amused, and that seafaring men evidently did not share my opinion that it was a fishing smack blown off the Newfoundland Bank by the strong westerly winds. Smith's First Peep at America. 31 In about an hoar the steamer had came up with it, when it proved to be a large three-masted ship, outward bound, beatinof about aorainst contrary winds. In another hour, it again appeared but a speck on the horizon, and 1 could not help saying, ^' I should not like to cross the Atlantic in a sailing ship ; at the rate she is going now she will not reach New York — if that is her port of destination — until next year." The afternoon I spent pleasantly enough in conver- sation and indoor games wuth some of the other passen- gers, especially Robinson, with \vhom I became very friendly. In the evening after a sharp walk up and down the proir.enade deck for half an hour I went below and occupied the time in writing a long letter to my friend Brown. In it I said '' The ^ Britannic ' is a ma^jnifi- cent steamer, and bv far the larorest that I have ever travelled on, althouo-h some of the other lead in or trans- Atlantic companies havt? been building some which, in point of size, far surpass even this one. It is 3,125 registered tonnage, and 5,503 tons shipbuilders' nr aasure- ment, and is certified to carry 194 saloon, and 1,076 steerage passengers. This voyage we have 176 saloon, and 870 steeraofe. The saloon is toward the forward end of the vessel, quite removed from the noise and vibration of the engines, which is a great convenience. The ship is 455 feet long, and 44 feet wide at the broadest part, and has four masts and two funnels. There are three decks, exclusive of the hurricane or promenade deck. The steerage passengers are berthed principally on the lower deck, also on the main deck, at 32 B^gS^g^ ^^id Boots ; or^ the fore and aft end of the ship. The centre portion of the main deck (which, by-fhe-bye) many landsmen would consider the first floor down stairs) is occupied by the saloon, state-rooms, bar, pan try, and all the appurtenances for the use and comfort of the saloon passengers, includinof ladies' bath room, &c. I forcrot to mention that the gentlemen's bath rooms, the barber's shop, the lower priced saloon berths, the baggage room, &c., are on the deck below, underneath the saloon. Next to the main deck comes the upper deck, both ends of which are completely covered in, for a distance of some fifty or sixty feet, to prevent the great Atlantic waves from making a complete sweep of the deck. Along the centre are a series of deck-houses some twenty-five feet in width. The first is a lounging room placed immediately over the grand saloon, and to which it forms a sort of gallery, there being a large opening in the centre, with banisters round. This gives a very lofty and elegant appearance to the main saloon, it hereby having a height in tlie centre of some seventeen feet or so. Next to the lounging room comes a very large companion way, some 18 feet bv 25 feet, and on the further side of this from the lounorinor room, are the smokinor room, lavatories, &c., &c. Next comes the cook's galley (or kitchen), the bakery, the entrance to the firemen's and engineer's departments, and many other things. There is also on this deck a small hospital, in order to isolate any case of infectious disease, should it break out w^hile on the vova^ce. On each side of these various deck- houses there is a width of eight or nine feet, and, of course, in between there is the whole width of the vessel , S mil /is First Peep at America, 33 which IS about 42 feet at the centre on this deck, and less, of course, towards each end. It is here the steerage passengers air themselves. Above this again, there is still another deck, occupying, however, only the middle portion of the ship, for about 180 feet. Along the centre of this deck are the wheel-house, with the chart room Hurricane Deck of S. S. "Britannic." (The Promenade Deck for the Saloon Passengers). immediately behind, the captain's rooms, the smoke stacks, the '^fiddler" (to let light and air down to the stock- hole), the skylights over the engines, &c. This deck is kept scrupulously clean, like the deck of a man-of-war ; and here the saloon passengers promenade, or rest them- selves in their comfortable sea chairs (i.^., when the 34 ^^gg<^g^ ^fi^i Boots ; cry weather does not prevent), quite separated from their fellow travellers in the steerage ; in fact, they need scarcely know of their existence. ^^ With regard to the provisioning department, anyhow for the saloon passengers, I had no idea that persons fared so sumptuously when travelling on the ocean. For instance, the bill of fare for dinner this evening included two sorts of soup, two of fish, four entrees ^ several joints, besides Turkey, ducks, chickens, tongue and ham, &c, several vegetables, four kinds of sweets, three of cheese, followed by dessert with tea and coffee. So you see there is no need to fear we shall suffer for want of good things to eat." As I had no opportunity of posting my letter until the vessel should arrive at New York, I left it open and added a little to it day by day, until it became quite a long epistle. Even on the Atlantic it is not always rough ; and on the fourth day after leaving Queenstown the wind and sea moderated a good deal, and the former somewhat changing its direction, some sail was set. Early in the afternoon, however, it was furled again, and the wind died away to a calm. The change in the weather enabled a good many passengers (who had hardly show^n them- selves for the last two or three days) again to take their seats at table. By the evening every vestige of cloud had disappeared ; there was a perfectly smooth sea, clear sky, and lovely sunset. The following day the sea was again perfectly calm, but the beautiful sky had disappeared, having given way to mist and rain. About noon they commenced SmitJCs First Peep^ at America. 35 blowing the fog-horn (an apparatus consisting of throe large whistles, one an enormous size). It blew for about five seconds, every half-minute or minute, ac- cording to the thickness of the fog. The vessel in noway slackened her pace but steamed ahead at full speed, as, should another ship be within hearing, it would reply to their whistle, when both vessels w^ould stop, if from the sound they were nearing each other. With the smooth sea, our daily run had greatly increased, and at noon was 375 knots, as compared with 342 the previous day, and 309 the day before that. During the afternoon, "the weather being very damp and unpleasant outside, most of the passengers betook themselves to indoor games and amusements. A little knot of four or five were conversing together when one remarked what an awiul row the steam foor-horn made. *' Yes," I remarked, ^' it's very unpleasant, no doubt, but at the same time very necessary." ^^ I don't know that ; it has been blowing on and off", now, for hours, and I don't believe a soul has heard it outside the persons on this ship, anyhow nothing has responded to us," said Robinson. " Then we may rest assured that we can steam ahead in safety, without risk of collision," I added. " That is a mistake ; at this time of the year, there is always risk of collision during a fog, with something that could not reply to our whistling," interposed Mr. Fox, one of the passengers. '' What is that?" enquired several voices. " An iceberg," said Mr. Fox. " In the spring the ice breaks up on the coast of Labrador and Newfoundland, 36 ^^ggf-'ig^ t^^td Boots ; or^ and the icebergs which have been formed in the Polar regions, and have broken away and drifted south a few miles each summer, at last break away from the floe ice altogether, and drift into open sea and southward? along the edge of the Newfoundland bank, gradually melting away as they travel towards warmer latitudes, until at last they disappear altogether at about 40 deg. N. Lat. One of the ladies said, ^^ Mr. Fox, you make me feel very nervous, I do not like their steaming ahead at full speed in a fog after what you have said." " Do not make yourself uneasy," said Mr. Fox, " the officers would not run the least risk with a ship of this class, and so many lives on board. In warm weather they are always able to detect the proximity of icebergs, even in the thickest fog ; and, as a matter of fact, we are only travelling half-speed now, although the fog is by no means dense." ^^ Then are we near ice? How do they tell?" I asked. ^* By the temperature of the sea. You see the mass of ice in a berg is so great that it affects the temperature of the water for miles round. You have, no doubt, seen the quarter-masters standing on the promenade deck and dipping those little canvas buckets into the sea and testing the water they bring up with a thermometer. "Well ! this morning it stood at 48 deg. when I saw them take it, and since luncheon it has gone down nine degrees in the space of half-an-hour ; that is why we are on half-steam. Should the temperature of the sea decrease much more, or the fog get thicker, we shall SmitJCs First Peep at America, 37 probably be put at a quarter speed, or perhaps stop altogether. But hark ! there goes the gong to prepare for dinner ; we'll meet again by-and-bye." After dinner I put on my overcoat, and went on deck, half in hopes of seeing an iceberg, i found that the look- out watch had been doubled and that there were now four look-out men on the forecastle, peering into the mist, and two officers instead of one on the bridge. A few other passengers, with plenty of wraps on, made their appearance. It was so very damp and chilly that I soon went below. About eight o'clock, just as it was getting dark, a gentleman came running down the com- panion way, and called out, "Where's my mother? quick, there's an iceberg. It will be gone in a minute.'* Instantly there was a rush for the deck. " Where is it? — where is it ?" was the general cry, as those whc had just emerged from the well lighted saloons gazed round but could see nothing. "There, there! don't you see it? it's close tc us," replied those who had been staying on deck and were now intently peering into the mist, " not the Ip gth of the ship from us ; don't you see it ? It's getting less dis- tinct now, it's fading away in the fog ; it will be gone in an instant." '' Where ? where ?" said one and another, " Why there, — there, — it's too late now; it's gone." Noticing a sailor, taking the temperature of the water, I went and asked him quietly what it was. " Thirty-four degrees," was his reply. The engines were now put to a quarter speed and re- mained going at that rate until about eleven o'clock, 38 B^gg^g'- ^^^d Boots ; or^ when, some small pieces of ice being observed to pass close to the vessel, they were stopped altogether and the huge ship lay motionless upon the ocean. Of course this evrent caused considerable exciteme.it amons: the passengers, and a few chose to stay up and pace the decks all night ; some from fear, and some in the hope of seeino^an iceberof. Robinson asked me if I intended to. " Not I. In the first place if they are in fear of the vessel striking an iceberg and foundering, and think they will save their lives by being on deck, I'm sure they'll not, with the water at freezing point, a thick fog, and no chance of being sighted for days or weeks. If good swimmers, they might perchance prolong their lives by some ten minutes or so, but I would sooner go to bed and chance it, and if the ship goes — which I don't expect — go down in her. If, on the other hand, it is in the hopes of seeing an iceberg, well ! I would join them if I the .ght we were likely to ; but I'm sure they will not, in this fog, even if one were within half-a-mile of us. So all things considered, 1 mean to go to bed at once, and in consequence of the noise and vibration of thos engines having stopped, I expect to sleep better to-night than I have done all the voyage." At daybreak those who had paced the deck all night, m the hope of seeing an iceberg, had their patience rewarded, for the fog somewhat lifted, and disclosed to them its probable cause, in the form of a huge berg not far fiom the steamer. The engines were put in motion and the vessel steamed safely away from it ; and in two or three hours the weather got sufficiently clear for the ship again to proceed under full steam. The SmitJCs First Peep at America. 39 weather contiimed dull all day, but cleared up towards evening. The next morning (Friday) was a lovely one, and what with the deliirhtful chancre in the weather, and the prospect of arriving in port in two days, the passengers were in very gleeful spirits, and two or three, who had kept their berths nearly the whole voyage, at last put in an appearance on deck and at the meal ta^ le, which are by far the two best remedies that can be • iken for sea- sickness. Shortly before luncheon, I was standing in the com- panion way, copying the result of the mid-day obser- vations that had just been taken, on to my little chart, when a gentleman (who had never been seen during the whole voyage without a cigar in his mouth) accosted me with ^^ Splendid run, is it not ?" " Yes," I replied, " 390 since noon yesterday; just 16 knots an hour." " I'll lay you an even bet of five shillings that we'll do over that to-morrow," continued he. " No thank you, I never bet," I responded. '* Why not ?" said he, " I've made twenty-five shillings already to-day." "Then,'' I returned, "someone else has lost it; it is not money made in the true sense of the word ; but how did you get it?" ** Why, whether we should speak to that Italian bark we sighted this morning, or not. But why don't you accept a wager, or go in for a sweepstake ?" I told him, " because I earned my money too slowly to waste it ia that way." 40 Baggage and Boots ; or^ ^' Waste it," said he, " why you might win ; you stand as good a chance as anyone else. Come now, we've ^ot a pool on, as to what time we take the pilot on to- morrow. Ten shillings each. Let me put your name down." " No, thank you," I said, ^' more lose than win. Look at Mr. Plumpboy, why he lost £75 on Wednesday in one day's betting." The "Companion Way;" or, Grand Staircase op S. S. "Britannic.' " Oh !" he continued, " that was at poker with Deveral and those other two ; this is something quite different. You can't lose more than ten shillings, and if we get fifty or sixty to join, you might win twenty-five or thirty pounds. Why it would pay your passage across, fees to stewards and all, and leave you something SmitlCs First Peep at America, 41 over besides. Some fellows get over in that way with out any expense at all." " True," 1 replied, ^* I don't doubt your word, for one moment, for I've been informed that some success- ful card sharpers and bookmakers make their livings crossing and re-crossing in these and other vessels, and betting with the passengers." He did not continue the conversation further, but com- menced whistling, turned on his heel, and walked away. The following morning, w^hen I went on deck, I could count no less than five schooner vachts in siojht. Each one had a number painted on the sails. On enquiry, I learned that they were pilot-boats. Each yacht is shared by a number of New York pilots, and *< dozen or more will come out in her, and she remains at sea for a week or Ion ojer cruisino; about until she has found them each a job. lM noon, the distance run since the previous observation was T''! knots, leaving only 187 more to Sandy Hook, and 207 to New York city. Shortly after, a pilot-boat, w4th a large figure 1 on the mainsail, was observed standincj riorht ahead in the steamer's course. A small boat put off* from her containing two men and a boy. One of the former was a pilot, who was quickly transferred to the *' Britannic," and both proceeded on their way. The pilot 1^^'ought a few New York papers with him, which were distributed among the passengers, and eagerly read by them. The news that seemed most to interest, yet most to trouble the ladies, was the great heat that the New Yorkers were experiencing ; resulting in several fatal cases of sunstroke. In the afternoon I 42 Baggage and Boots, &c. observed a New York young lady looking very doleful^ and enquired what was amiss. ^' Oh, Mr. Smith, is there not enough to make me sad ? Only thinks the thermometer 90 deg. in May ; what will it be in two months' time ? and I cannot endure the heat, I always feel ill in the summer time, not fit for anything until the end of September, and by that time I shall be melted down to grease at this rate ! " *' Then pray send me a pot of the pomade." The passengers spent the evening in letter writing, and packing up in anticipation of an early disembarka- tion the following morning. Shortly after nine o'clock, the bright light from the lighthouse on Fire Island, on the southern shore of Long Island, became visible. I hailed it gladly, as being the first thing on terra-firma that I had seen for over a week, which seemed to me a long time, though nothing to those who had travelled to Australia, or across the Pacific in a sailing ship. Soon the lights at Sandy Hook came in sight. Although late, a good many passengers stayed on deck, some to get their first glimpse of the new world, others who were returning home, pleased to give any information they could to their English fellow- voyagers. The sand bar at Sandy Hook was safely crossed at half-past eleven, and the ocean voyage was now regarded as over. After an hour's steam up the beautiful Bay of New York, the '^ Britannic " dropped anchor for the r%ht off Staten Island ; and those few passengers who still lingered on deck, at last turned into bed, which they had to do in the dark, the lights in their state- rooms having been extinguished an hour before. CHAPTER IV. New York Bay — Examination of steerage passengers — Declaration of excisable belongings — The steamer proceeds to the city — The landing and examination of baggage— New York "Express" — **Hackmen" — Elevated railroad — Hotels, American plan and European plan — Broadway Congregational Church — Tall hats and stove-pipes — Luggage .and baggage — Express charges — Descrip- tion of the Park Avenue Hotel— Dinner — Smith don't know what to order — Coloured waiters — American wastefulness — Cold tea — Madison Avenue — '* Church of the Disciples" — The service — "Programme " of the proceedings. AS soon as I awoke I scrambled down from my berth to get my first day-light view of the New World. During the night there had been a complete change in the weather, and there was now a steady down-pour of rain, which, however, had the desirable effect of cooling the atmosphere, and rendering the heat less oppressive. Early in the morning the " health officer " came on board, and the 870 steerage passengers were marched past him, in single file, for inspection. As there had been no deaths on the voyage, and as there was no case of fever or serious illness, he gave the captain the usual certificate, and the ship was allowed to proceed. So the anchor was weighed, and she steamed slowly across the Bay toward New York city. While the saloon passengers were engaged in hastily devouring a seven o'clock breakfast, a steam tender convevinor some Custom House officials, and a few passengers' friends came alongside. The former soon set to work, and the passengers had one and all to sign a declaration on oath 44 Baggage and Boots ; or, that they had no contraband or excisable articles with them. Having done so, they were warned that should any such be found in their " baggage " (otherwise than what they had in writing acknowledged to, and paid duty on), such goods were liable to confiscation. While this business was going on below, the *^ Britannic " had reached New York, and was now steaming up the Hudson River (which forms the Western side), to the White Star Company's wharf which is about two miles up the stream from the southern extremity of the city, and where the passengers were landed a little before nine o'clock. As soon as the steamer had been safely moored in her terth, the stewards and sailors made themselves very busy carrying passengers' luggage on shore, and depositing it in the grer»,t shed that extended the whole length of the quay. I followed my portmanteaux to where they were set down, and patiently waited for the Customs examination, which I knew there would be before I would be allowed to proceed off the quay with them. What a busy scene that wharf presented that Sunday morning; passengers' luggage being opened in all directions, their personal effects being searched by the Custom House officials, and tlieir private belongings exposed to the eyes of the curious. The United States Government are very prohibitory in their import duties, especially on silks, jewellery wearing apparel, and on manufactured commodities, generally. As a sequel, the Custom House Executive have to be proportionately rigid in their examination of Smitlis First Peep at America. 45 everything arriving from abroad ; for the higher the duty the greater the temptation to smuggle ; for it is evident that if a foreign article is put into the American market at all, in the ordinary course of trade, it must be cheaper in the country it comes from than in the United States by at least the amount of the duty (whatever that may be), plus freight and other charges. Americans are not, as a rule, given to own any superiority of usages and customs in the English or in foreigners generally ; and therefore I w^as the more pleased to hear an American lady remark that she had travelled a good deal in England and on the European Continent, and passed through many Custom Houses in passing from one country to another, yet nowhere were they so inquisitive and so extortionate, and nowhere did she so much dread the ordeal as each time she returned to her native land. After waiting a considerable time, the chief Custom House officer put the declaration paper (that I had signed on board the ship) into the hands of a subordinate, and directed him to search my luggage. Nothing contraband was found therein, and in about an hour from my first stepping on to the quay I was at liberty to go where I pleased. While I was cogitating what to do with my luggage, I was accosted by a man with the word " Express '* worked on his cap in silver letters. "Express," said the man, at the same time putting his hand on a portmanteau ; '^ How many pieces of baggage have you, and where to? " "No, I'm not going by express train or any other 46 Baggage and Boots ; or^ anywhere just yet ; I purpose staying in New York for the next week, at any rate." " Yes, I understand ; which hotel do you wish your baororaore sent to ? " ^^I don't know, I'm at my wits' end, I don't know one from another ; and, besides, when I have discovered where to go to, what is that to you ? What have you to do with it?" ^* Why ? you'll want your baggage sent up, I guess ; you'll not be able to carry it." " I'm not going to try. I shall take it in a cab.'* '^A hack you mean; that will cost you three dollars." " What ? three dollars to ride from here to an hotel ?" Just at this juncture a New York gentleman — one of my fellow voyagers, came to my relief. He assured me that what I had just heard with regard to the hacks was correct, and that the cheapest and usual way was to deliver all one's baggage into the hands of an *' Express Agent," who would give me a " check " (acknowledg- ment) for the same, and deliver it to any address named. *^ Which hotel are you going to ? " " I don't know." " Well ! We have so many it is difficult to recommend any in particular ; it depends much in which part of the city you wish to be most ; however, suppose you try the Park Avenue Hotel. It was built by A. J. Stewart, for women only, but failed as a women's hotel, and is now an ordinary family hotel. It is quiet and select, and I think you will like it." Smith'' s First Peep at America. 47 *' Thank you, I will try H anyhow; if I do not, I can but chanfje." " How many pieces of baggage have you ?" " Those two leather portmanteaux, my travelling rug and steamer chair." '^ Oh ! you had better leave the chair here ; it will soon cost you more to take it about than you paid for it." ^' Leave it ? Where can I warehouse it ?" ^' Why, take it into that office, and they will book it and put a number on it and take charge of it for you gratis until you return. They have hundreds upstairs, I warrant.'* Having thanked my fellow-passenger for the in- formation he had imparted, I recalled the Express man, gave the portmanteaux and rug into his charge, and received a check for the same." " Where to ?" again asked the agent. ^* Park Avenue Hotel. When shall I get them?" " Your baggage will be there almost as soon as you are, perhaps before. We go ahead in this country." After leaving my chair, as directed, in the company's office, I, at last, stepped into the street, where I was at once surrounded by a crowd of hackmen, like a pack of hungry wolves, all anxious to obtain a fare. I, however, pushed my way through them, fully determined, after what I had heard of the charges, not to set my foot in a hack while I remained in New York. Crossing West Street, on which the quays abound, I walked up 10th Street, and almost immediately came upon the Greenwich Street Branch of the New York Elevated 48 Baggage and Boots ; or, Bailroad. At this point 10th Street turns at a sharp angle to the right, and runs due east and west cit right angle to the avenues, all of which run due north and south. Three blocks further on I saw an enormous iron building, though, however, painted white to resemble stone. It was evidently what an Englishman would call a large retail shop, and, although no name appeared, I at once correctly guessed it to be the world-renowned store of the late A. J. Stewaii. In coming thus far I had crossed Avenues, Five, and Six and several other streets, but I did not notice 4th Avenue. On enquiring a passer by very kindly directed me one block further and then saw me into a car that would pass my hotel. After a ride of about a mile and a half I reached it, entered and walked up to the counter. *^ What are your prices at this house ?" I asked. " Three dollars, fifty, per day," replied the clerk. "What for?" " Everything included, except wines and spirits." *' Don't you charge separately for room and for meals ? Because I shall usually be out all day, and do not want to pay for what I do not have." ** No, we do not do that sort of thing here. If you want that sort of accommodation you must go to an hotel on the European plan. In American hotels we charge from the time you sign on, to the time you leave. I was puzzled what to do on account of my luggage which I had already directed to be delivered at the Park Avenue Hotel. SmitKs First Peep at America. 49 After a minute's consideration I determined to stay where I was for the present, so signed the visitors' bo^k, and was shown by a coloured attendant to a very com- fortable bedroom on the second floor, with inside Venetian shutters to the windows to let in the air ; without letting in the glare and heat of the sun. Both hot and cold water and gas were laid on to each bed- room. An electric bell communicated with this office, and a small card was fastened to the wall statinor how many times the bell push was to be pressed for various wants, e,(j.^ Once for bell boy, twice for ice- water, three times for boots, four times for chambermaid, five times for laundrymaid, six times for meals in room, seven times for porter. I did not forget that it was Sunday morning, so after having a good wash, I walked up 33rd Street, to where Broadway crosses the 6th Avenue, and dropped into the Broadway Congregational Church. Inside, I found it is a splendid edifice, with a great organ and beautiful stained glass windows ; which, however, made it rather dark. The pews were upholstered to match ; cushions and backs, and also the back of pew before you, in a fawn-coloured rep ; and in addition to hymn books, fans were provided for the use of minister, choir and congregation. The service was more than half over when I entered, and the pastor was delivering a fare- well sermon to his flock, before setting sail on the following Wednesday, on a visit to Europe. The reverend gentleman had a good flow of language, but the discourse was very unlike an orthodox English sermon, and to me it appeared little else than an 50 Baggage and Boots; or, elaborately worded thanksgiving speech to the congre- gation for a '' purse of gold '' which they had presented to their pastor wherewith to take his tour abroad. The moment the benediction was pronounced, the gentlemen all seized their hats, and there was such hurry to be gone, as though they were all trying who could get out first. Outside, a number of private carriages were waiting to convey their owners home. It did not seem at all essential with the New York gentlemen, or their coach- men either, to wear a tall hat on Sundays; in fact, it seemed the exception rather than the rule to do so. The little street arabs designate tall hats "stove-pipes." On returning to the hotel, I asked the clerk if my lug- gage had arrived. " Luggage ! Baggage, I suppose you mean. No, it has not come yet." ^* How much will it be ? Shall I give you the money now? " After looking at the check I had received from the Express man, the clerk said : — ^*Two valises and one rug, one dollar, twenty, that is, forty cents apiece ; but you need not pay now, we will book it to your account." Forty cents apiece ? surely they will never charge that for the rai> ? " " That is the usual charge, it is an all round price, whatever the size of the package." " In that case, it is more economical to have all your belongings in one great trunk if you have to move from place to place." ^' That is what people here do." " Well ! I suppose I shall learn by experience." SmitlCs First Peep at America. 51 As I made for the dining-room, I could not help saying to myself, '* Well ! they know how to charge over here ; one dollar, twenty cents, just five shillings English, for conveying my luggage by a parcels' delivery company, from the wharf to the hotel. Why ! in Lon- don I could have rode up in a cab and brought it all with me for half that sum." The dining-room was a spacious hall about 100 feet long by 30 wide, with a lofty ceiling and tesselated floor of black and white marble. There were thirty round tables, each covered with a clean white cloth and each set for five guests, and at each stood a coloured v/aiter. A black man, standing at the door, took my hat as I entered, and the head waiter (also a coloured man), waving his hand to me as a sign to follow, showed me to a seat. While the waiter went to fetch the viands selected (which by the bye he took an immense while to do) I had ample opportunity to look about. My seat was by an open window, which looked into a courtyard, about 100 feet square, surrounded on all sides by the hotel. A fountain was playing in the centre, and there were some tastefully laid out flower-beds. There were, how- ever, no gravel paths, the rest of the courtyard being flagged with stone. A verandah ran along two sides of the hotel, under which a few persons were sitting, the gentlemen smoking vigorously while they poised their chairs on the two hind legs only, and rested their own legs and feet on the hand-rail in front of them. One or two children were racinor round the orarden on a sir all bicycle and tricj^cle, while one or two more still smaller ones were playing with their dolls and chattering 52 ^(^ggctgc cind Boots ; or^ to their coloured nurse-maids. Over headj bigh above the fountain, and supported by wires stretched from the upper windows of the hotel, was an electric lamp, with which the court is brilliantly illuminated of an evening. Luncheon over, I walked up stairs and through the drawinof-room. It was the same size as the dininfj-room below, and was well supplied with substantial furniture, including a grand piano an.l a carpet as soft as down to the feet. The windows were all on one side, looking into the courtyard mentioned above, and the opposite wall was hung with large and well-executed pictures in massive gilt frames. At first I thought I was the only occupant of the room, but I soon discovered that there were four or five persons sitting in some of the window recesses, which the heavy hangings concealed from view. There, how- ever, did not appear to be any ink about, or tables suitable for letter writing, and as I was anxious to write letters for England I inquired where I could do so, and was told I would find every convenience in the library, overhead. The library corresponded in size exactly with the drawing-room, and with a carpet as soft to the tread as the one in the room I had just quitted. Between each window was a neat double writing-desk, suitable for two persons to rdt at, facing each other, one on each side. Each desk was supphed with ink and pens, blotting-pad, stationery, &c. Against the opposite w^all were fixed a series of book-cases, with glass doors, containing thousands of valuable volumes, among others works by SmitlCs First Peep at America, 53 Sir Walter Scott, Charles Dickens, Smiles, and many other standard and favourite English writers. The book- cases were locked, but any work could be had by any guest in the hotel by applying to the librarian. This was a very comfortable and pleasant room for letter- writing or reading, and on this particular afternoon I spent some hours there. After writing what I considered some v^ery long epistles (although I afterwards found their length by no means satisfied my correspondents), I went down to dinner, which is served from five to seven o'clock. A bill of fare was placed before me, but I was puzzled a good deal about what to order, as some of the things I had never heard of before. However, I ^'drew a bow at a venture " and ordered some Consomme Rachel to commence with, to be followed by a little fish. While eating the latter, the waiter again placed the bill of fare before me and leant down his head in order the better to hear. " Capon stuffed, aujus^"^ said I, reading off the bill, and without the shadow of an idea of what it was, but prepared to learn by personal experience. " And " -said the waiter. " Summer squash," I replied, again perfectly ignorant of what " squash " was, but anxious to learn. " And " said the waiter. Now, I thought that, with what I had already eaten, I had ordered a very good dinner ; however, I thought I would surely satisfy the \\ aiter by adding " mashed potatoes and stewed tomatoes " to the order already given. Still the negro waited, attentively listening. "And" 54 Baggage and Boots ; or, " Nothing else ; I've ordered enough, I'm sure. The waiter bowed and went to execute his commands, and as he walked away down the long room I caught siffht of his face reflected in the larcje silvered mirror at the end. It was all on the grin, with a mouth from ear to ear, showing two rows of pearly white teeth. I felt satisfied, from the man's evident amusement, that I must have ordered things not usually eaten together, or was in some way partaking of my dinner not a la mode de New York, My suspicions were confirmed when I noticed that in a few minutes I was an object of amusement, not only to the negro attending on me, but to all the waiters in the room. " There is no help for it just now, no doubt I shall find out and know better when I have been here a few days, and if I had these fellows in London, wh]- then I'm sare I would have the laugh of them. However, all I call do at present is to watch the Yankees and see what they order and how they eat it." Just then the head waiter placed an American gentle- man at the table. Now, I was as a; tentive as the waiter while that individual gave his order. To my surprise it embraced nearly the whole bill of fare. " Well," I thought, " he has not dined for a week, and if he eats it all, he won't need to do so again for another." The table was soon covered with little dishes, and the new comer set to work. He messed everything about so that it could not be put before anyone else ; ate very rapidly, a little of this and a little of that, never finishing anything, often hardly eating any, and in a few minutes got up and left;. SmitlCs First Peep at America. 55 " Well, what waste," thought I. ^^ I remember that, when a child, anything I left at one meal, even to the crust off my bread, was always put away in a cupboard for my next, and I had no other food until I got hungry enough to eat it ; and that into the bargain I had to learn the famous lines of Dr. Watts : * Wilful waste makes woeful want, And I may live to say, Oh ! how I wish I had that crust That once I threw away.' If what I have just seen is customary in this country, and judging from others in the room it appears to be, food must be very cheap and labour abundant and well paid, to enable a nation to grow into habits of such wanton wp.stefulness." There was one thing, however, that struck me very favourably in comparison with what is usually seen in English hotels and dining rooms. That was the absence of alcoholic liquors. I looked all round the room and there did not appear to be a single guest taking either beer or wine with his dinner. An old gentleman sitting at the next table appeared to be partaking of something of the sort, with ice in it, or else calves* foot jelly half melted ; I was not sure which, but curiosity prompted me to ask the attendant standing behind me. " That, sir, is cold tea," replied the waiter, evidently very much amused at his customer's ignorance, '' shall I bring you some? It is very refreshing in hot weather." " Yes, please, I should like to try it." The tea was brought, but I did not like it. I however 5 6 Baggage and Boots ; or^ got to like it before I returned to Europe, and found it a most cooling and refreshing drink in very hot weather . While I was finishing my dinner, with a champagne jelly and an ice cream, the coloured waiter asked me if I was a stranger in this part of the country. '' Yes," I rephed. ^^ Do you come from the South? " ** Oh no ! I'm not an American at all ; I come from England." ^^ Oh ! from England, Have you been here long, sir r *^ No, I only arrived this morning." " Oh, then you do not know our ways yet ; I suppose you have different ways in England ? " '' I should rather think we have." " You have had a very poor dinner to-day, sir." " Do you think so ? I thought otherwise." " Yes, sir, very poor ! very poor ! Will you be staying here long? " " Some days." ^' Then to-morrow you get the head waiter to seat you at this table ; let me bring you a good dinner, very good ! you leave it to me, and I will bring you nice things, very nice ; the best things, and you will like what I bring very much." " Oh ! very well, to-morrow I will let you serve me up a real American dinner." In the evening I walked up Madison Avenue, a good broad street, with substantial private residences on either side About eight o'clock I saw persons entering the Church of the Disciples, so followed them, and found to Sniit/i's First Peep at America, 57 my surprise that the service had not even commenued. I soon ascertained that 7.45 p.m. was the usual time for commencing]: evening: service in that and most New York places of worship; and that this evening being the 30th of May there was to be a special soldiers' service, the body of the build in o: beinor reserved for their exclusive use. Not understanding: the connection between the 30th of May and a special service for soldiers, I explained to my informant that I was a foreigner, and asked an explanation. " Certainly ! Do you not remember that the SOth of May was the day on which General Lee, of the rebel forces, surrendered to General Grant, and therebv closed our civil war ? Ever since we keep the date as a public holiday, when all the banks and government buildings are closed ; and when the relatives and friends of those who fell in the war o-o in thousr is out to the cemeteries to decorate their friends' o-raves with flaijs and everlastinc: flowers. To-morrow you will see some grand pro- cessions, and the streets lined with thousands of spectators ; such crowds about, as I guess you never saw before." I smiled, but said nothing, and my informer continued: " During the war our pastor w^as chaplain in the army, and so every year about this date we hold a special service for the soldiers, which we invite them to attend." The conversation was here interrupted by the arrival of the soldiers, who at once marched to the seats reserved for them, and all vacant seats were speedily filled up by strangers and others, who had been standing aside until it was seen what amount of room the soldiery would require s 58 Baggage and BootSy &€. While persons were seating themselves, I had time to look romid. Had I not been otherwise informed, I might easily have mistaken the place for a building con- secrated for the service of the Greek Church, as several oil paintings decorated the walls. They were, however, not of the saints, but of General Grant, President Lincoln, &c. ; while behind the pulpit there were the standards of the regiments entraored in the conflict, some of them proving by their torn and tattered state, that they had been in the thick of the strife. Before the pulpit was the representation of a sarcophagus, which was completely covered with flowers. The organist (who had donned a soldier's uniform) commenced the service by playing a funeral march, b}^ Baptiste, which was followed by a short prayer or invo- cation, by the pastor, who also wore epaulettes and a military belt. The minister did not announce what hymn or chapter came next ; in fact there was no need, as a black edged programme of the proceedings was widely circulated throughout the pews. The programme consisted of several organ recitals, and pieces for the choir only ; also two solos. The minister took no io^yX^ and his address appeared to me a mere eulogy on the courage and valour of the Northern army. When the service was over, I could not remember having heard — either in the prayers or the sermon, the name of the Great Master (for whose worship the building had presumably been erected) — once mentioned ; and I came away with a feeling that in New York, at any rate, the religious life of the Americans was of but a very superficial character. CHAPTER V. A Bank Holiday in New York — ** Commemoration Day " — American breakfast — Broadway— 6th Avenue — Description of Elevated Railroad, and trains — 155th Street — An unexpected shower- bath — View from the " High Service Reservoir " — Harlem River and High Bridge — Smith sells his English money — Battery Park — Castle Garden — Sharks on land — Intending emigro,nt's mis- takes — A New York swimming bath — Boots — Smith engages ia an argument with a " Shiner." He learns the value of a ** nickie," a ** dime," and a ** quarter." 11 f HEN Morpheus relieved me from his embrace the * * followinor morninor I was at a loss to remember where I was. The voyage of the last ten clays had so inured me to the motion of a ship at sea, that (like many others have done) I experienced the sensation of being still afloat ; my bed seemed to heave up and down, and to and fro, until a conviction came over my mind that I had not yet landed, and that the impression of having spent yesterday in New York was but a dream that had probably passed through my brain within perhaps the last ten minutes. I, how^ever, soon missed the incessant thud of the engines and said half aloud, " Oh ! the engines have stopped ; more fog and ice, I suppose ; unless it is that we have arrived durinof the nio;ht. I'll look out and see if New York harbour is like it appeared in my dream." I felt for the hand rail, which I used to find of great assistance in clambering from my berth, to the cabin 60 Baggage and Boots ; or, floor. Rail there was none. I then stared about the place, expecting to see the usual limited dimensions of a state- room aboard ship ; and I started with astonishment and attain wondered where I was, to see the comfortable appointments of a bedroom in a first class American hotel. Althounrh evidently on land, I think it would be no paradox to say tliat I was also at sea. However, while thoroughly rousing myself by yawning and rubbing my knuckles into my eyes, I had time to collect my thoughts and to convince myself that my reminiscences of yesterday were no dream of the past night, but that I had in reality already spent one day in New York and that it was now Monday morning and also a ^^ Bank Holiday '^ in the United States. At no meal perhaps is there a more marked difference in what is set on the table in England and America than at breakfast ; and I was agreeably surprised, on taking my seat, to have a plate of strawberries and cream set before me to commence my repast with. I noticed, however, that some of the guests preferred eating raw tomatoes sliced, with pepper and salt. " What would you like for your breakfast ?" asked the same coloured man that had waited on me the pre- vious day. ^'* Bring me what you like, and don't be long." *^ Good, sir ; very good ; let nie bring you a nice breakfast, very nice." He departed and was gone so long that I beckoned to the head waiter, and asked if the man had forgotten me. " Oh no, sir, he has not forgotten ; what have you SmitJCs First Peep at America, CI ordered? he is only waiting for it while it is being cooked, and you will have it as soon as it is ready." '' What have I ordered ? I've ordered nothing, except that he should not keep me waiting long." " No doubt he will be here directly ; I'll go and hurry him." Presently I saw the waiter returning ; his left hand resting firmly on his hip for support, while with his right hand he poised a tray high above his head, and on which were a number of small dishes, which he soon arranged on the table. The waiter had selected cod-fish balls, sirloin steak, link sausages, mash, omelette with ham, potatoes (all cut up into little strips like candied peel, ready for a cake, and baked until they were as hard as chips) ; also raw tomatoes sliced, cracked wheat (boiled in milk ), buckwheat cakes, corn cakes, and American hot rolls, together with a cup of good coffee. Enough, you would doubtless say, yet with all I was not satisfied. '^ Waiter, let me have some bread." In reply he placed the plates containing the cakes and rolls closer to me, which, of course, necessitated moving other thinors further off" to make room. " Do you call these little hot, flaky, pufiy things, the size of a chestnut and as soft as a sponge cake, bread ?'* " Do not gentlemen in England like that sort of bread?" *' I don't ; let me have some plain bread, off a good quartern loaf of household ; and stale, if you have it." As I sat eating my breakfast I could hear the distant music of a passing band, which again reminded me that 62 Baggage and Bcots ; or, it was a high day and holiday in the commercial capital of the New World, and that it would be as well to be out and about, and see what was to be seen. They declined at the hotel office to change the English money I had about me, but said that I would be able to sell it in Wall Street when I went down town. " Well ! but the banks will not be open to-day, being a public holiday, and I want to go out and about ; and I cannot pay railway and 'bus fares with English money, what ani I to do ?" " I cannot say ; only I guess the manager would not approve of my changing it, as if I did we should only have to send some one down town on purpose to sell it, and besides I do not know what the rate of exchange is," said the cashier. ^^ Well, fortunately, I have a small amount of American money that the purser on board the steamer changed for me. I suppose I must manage to make it last out to-day." " I walked up 32nd Street to Broadway and Sixth Avenue, in both of which thoroughfares the principal shops were closed, which in many cases was done by simply turning the key in the door, there being neither shutters nor even inside window blinds. Strino^s of flao;s w^ere stretched across the roads in many places, and among them, as a matter of course, the stars and stripes bore the most conspicuous place. There were many banners with mottoes, &c., on them, such as, ^^ TO THOSE WHO DIED TO SAVE THE UNITY OF THEIR COUNTRY," &C. SmitJCs First Peep at America. 63 Processions wero being formed in many of the streets abutting on Madison Avenue, which appeared to be one of the principal localities for the crowds of spectators io gather, in order to see the various processions march past. The principal rendezvous for the soldiers' friends who made up the various processions, appeared to be Union and Washington Squares, and after having formed and spent the greater portion of the morning in promenading the principal thoroughfares, they, for the most part, went off to the suburb of Fairfield on the eastern side of the Harlem River, in order to decorate the soldiers' graves there with little flags, in the way I had been informed of the previous evening. To see crowds of people about was to me no novelty, and as the principal business establishments, manufacturers, and places of interest were closad I determined to follow the holiday-makers into the suburbs. Being anxious to travel on the celebrated New York Elevated Railroad, I proceeded to the 6th Avenue and took the train from 33rd Street to 159th Street on the Harlem River. Before starting]: out I had taken the precaution to purchase, at the newspaper and bookstall in the hotel, the *' New York Guide," which is got up in the form of a newspaper, about the size of the London ^^ Globe." The outside sheet contains a map of New York, while, as its name implied, the inside sheets contain a mass of information reo^ardino- the various sights of New York, also Railroa ^ and Steam- boat Time Tables, and other items of information of great use to a stranger. I found it an invaluable com- 64 Baggage and Boots ; or, panion, and considered it the cheapest ten cents worth I bouijht in the States. The Elevated Rdh'oads of New York run down the centre of some of the principal streets, only over head. Thoy are supported on iron columns, placed (in the narrower streets) in the stone kerb on >ach side of the road, and about twelve or fifteen yards apart. These New York Elevated Bailroad. columns support iron girders wdiich are thrown across the road, and on which the railroad is constructed, about on a level with the first-floor windows of the ad- joining houses, and in some parts considerably higher ; while the persons riding in the cars have a good view SmitJCs First Peep at America, 65 of what is iioinor on in the second-floor front rooms, unless the inmates keep the blinds down. The railroad has no groundwork between the sleepers. That is, in order to let more liofht throu<^h to the roadway beneath ; which is almost invariably laid down with a double line of tramrails and traversed by ordinary horse-cars where- ever the railroad goes above. In the broader Avenues, the supporting columns are not placed in the side kerb, but nearer the centre of the road, leaving amply sufficient room for a vehicle to pass between them and the footpath. I went upstairs at 33rd Street and took my ticket ; there was only one class of carriage, and a bystander told me that was first class ; and also there was only one fare (10 cents), whatever the distance travelled. The bookinc: clerk tore the ticket off a soit of long tape of them, and while waiting for the change I lost a train, which, however, was of no consequence, as the next one came up in less than two minutes, while two more could be seen following that, they being timed to start every minute and a half. After passing two stations, the train suddenly turned round a sharp corner and ran down 53rd Street, exactly at right angles to the avenue it had just been traversing. It ran along this street, crossing 7th and 8th Avenues, and on reachinor 9th Avenue, it again turned at riorht ancjles to the right, and resumed its northerly course, as easily or more so than an ordinary street tram-car would do. In going round these sharp curves, the train necessarily passes very close to the corner house, so close, that if you are seated near the centre of the long cars, you could almost (if not quite) touch the building. Although 66 Baggage and Boots ; or^ on looking at a map of Ne;v York, almost the whole of Manhattan Island is marked out in avenues and streets, I found that with regard to the upper portion of it, it was on paper only, the neighbourhood consisting of only a few houses here and there. On reaching: 159th Street, close to the Harlem River, I got out of the train and descended the station stairs to the road beneath. There was a cloudless sky, and the scorching rays of the sun were very oppressive, so I stepped to the centre of the road, in order to obtain whatever benefit was to be derived from the shade from the raih'oad overhead. The road was very muddy, notwithstanding all around things were being baked in the sun ; and clouds of dust were blowing in alldirections,althoughit was still only the month of May. '' Oh ! how I could enjoy a swimming bath," I said to myself, " even a shov/er bath would be refreshing, such an afternoon as this/' My desire was soon granted, for the wish had hardly shaped itself into w^ords, when I was drenched with a deluge of water, that came pouring down on me from overhead. Instantly forsaking the shade of the line, and looking up to ascertain the cause of the wetting I had just received, I saw" that one of the small locomotives was being supplied with w^ater, and the water having filled the tank, had begun to overflow, and as I was standing exactly underneath the spot, I, of course, received the benefit of the overplus. After this little adventure I made for the Edgecomb Road, and walked about a mil ) to the High Service Reservoir, which commands a magnificent view for miles round, including a large portion of New York PS e o 3 Smith's First Peep at America. f)D and Brooklyn, the orreat East River Suspensio i Bridge, i&c, &c. Of course Manhattan Island forms far too small a watershed for the supply of a city containing over a million of inhabitants. The water is therefore brought from Fairfield, on the main land, and crosses the Harlem River at High Bridge, by a lofty aqueduct that gives the name to the locality. The aqueJuct has been bricked over on the top, and a substantial railing put each side, forming a good broad path, which has been thrown open to foot passengers, free of toll. From the centre of this bridge is obtained a very picturesque view, both up and down the river — a number of pleasure boats, one or two small steamers, the High Bridge Hotel and gardens, ana the line of the New York and Hudson River Railroad runnino: alonir the east bank close to the water, and following the windings of the river, forming together a very pretty picture. The next day not being a public holiday, business in the city was resumed as usual, and I made it my first business to go to Wall Street (the Lombard Street of New York), and change the English money that I had about me into American coin. I ascertained that my quickest way was to take the 3rd Avenue Branch of the Elevated Railroad from 34th Street to Hanover Square Depot, when I would be close to the banks. At a money broker's in Wall Street I sold my English cash, receiving four dollars eighty-eight cents to the English pound, being a premium of eight cents on each sovereign. With the exception of a few odd cents, I was paid entirely in paper money, which I felt half 70 Baggage and Boots ; oiy inclined to refuse to accept, as I feared I might find persons unwilling to accept it in payment, except at a discount. *' Can't you pay me in gold," I asked. "You can have it in silver if you like." " What is the rate of exchange to take it in hard cash?" " It makes no difference ; paper money is at par, and has been so now for a long time ; since January 1879." " I think I would sooner take it in silver." " All right, I'll ^yi it for you that way if you prefer, but I guess you'll find it a rare lump to carry about. We, in this country, always prefer paper ; it is so much lighter to carry." "But will it pass as readily?" The clerk burst out laughing. '^ I guess you haven't been across this side long, or you'd have no need to ask that. See here what it savs on each note : ' Redeemable in silver at the United States Treasury.' " I was satisfied at this explanation, and left the office. From Wall Street I went to the " Battery," a small park of about four acres, and which forms the southernmost point of New York City. It is a lovely little spot, and commands a splendid view of the Bay of New York. In this park, by the water's edge, is the Emigrant Depot, so well known as ^* Castle Garden," which has been erected by the Government, with a view to protecting emigrants, as far as possible, from falling into the jaws of the land sharks that abound in New York, and who used to get hold of the poor foreigners SvtitJCs First Peep at America. 71 immediately they landed, and, under the pretence of beinfT able to obtain them employment, take them to low lodging houses, and other places, and in one way or another, with or without the aid of accomplio^ ' swindle them out of the small amount of hard ea .-.a savin crs with which they usually landed, and tliei* tjiking them up one street, and clown another, until they were utterly bewildered and quite lost, would leave the poor emigrant, with perhaps a wife and several children, penniless and forsaken, without a roof to shelter them, or a friend to apply to for assistance and information : strancrers in a strano-e ciiy, in a foreimi land. On arrivinir at New York, emiojrants are now taken at once to Castle Garden, where they can receive correct and reliable information as to the best and cheapest way of proceeding to the destination they are bound for. Here also they frequently meet with large employers of labour who come to Castle Garden to eno-acre hands. Many poor people in England and Ireland seem to think that if they can but scrape the cash together, wherewith to pay the ocean fare across the Atlantic, and land them in the New World, that success is certain ; althouixh tliev land penniless. This is quite a mistake, as anyone takinof a walk to Castle Garden, and seeinof the numbers of poor wretches anxiously longing to be engaged, would soon discover. The fact is that the New York labour market is overcrowded with this class of persons ; and to ensure obtaining remunerative employment, the emigrant should supply himself with at least four guineas more than is required for the ocean fare, in 72 Baggage and Boots ; oi\ order that he may be able at onc^e to push on westward for a thousand miles at least, until he reaches a district where labour is in good demand, and consequently well remunerated. In walkinnr round the Batterv Park I saw some free swimming baths built out in the water. The day was very oppressive, and I longed to have a plunge in the hquid element, yet feared to do so there, as I felt assured that, in consequence of the price, the company I would find would be anything but desirable. A h!ttle further on were some more swimminir baths, with an admission fee of twenty-five cents. This sum I very gladly paid ; but, on entering, found the accom- modation exceedingly poor, consisting of a square space, open to the sky, surrounded by a wooden platform, built out into the bay, and on which were fixed a number of dressing rooms, very small, and built in the roughest possible manner. ^^ Well," thought I, *' in London I can go to splendid baths, with glazed roofs and respect- able accommodation for dressin^r and pure clean water, instead of this muddy stuff" to s\"im in, and where they provide infinitely better tow^els than they do here, and yet charge less than half the price of this place into the bargain ; although at home the proprietors have to pay a very heavy water rate, while here you are simply bathing out of doors, in New York Bay, only with this boarding round you. I wonder I should not find better accommodation than this, in the largest city in the United States." However the morning was very sultry and oppressive, and despite my grumbling, I felt all the cooler and more comfortable for my dip in salt water. SmitJCs First Peep at America. 73 and determined, in my own mind, to come again another day, if I could not find a better place. On leav'ng the baths I met a Brooklyn gentleman who had been a fellow passenger with me across the ocean ; and who now invited me to come and lunch at his house. I thanked him, and said, ^^ I shall be pleased to do so, but I must first get my boots blacked, if I can find a shoeblack. Do you have such beings in this country?" *^ Yes, plenty of them ; but why do you rot let the ' boots ' at your hotel shine them for you, while you are dressing ? It would save you time when you are out." ^' I don't think the * boots ' at my hotel is up to his work; I have put my boots outside my bedroom door each night, when I went to bed, and in the morning have found them there just in the same state that I left them, without having been cleaned at all." ^' I wonder that you found them there at all, or that you ever saw them again." ^^Howso?'* ^' Why ! our hotels are so large, and there are so many persons constantly in and out, that it is the easiest thing in the world for a stranger to walk round and pick up anything he sees lying about in that way, and still easier for anyone staying in the house to do so ; and in a large hotel there are persons of all sorts — good, bad, and indifferent — among the guests. The hotel proprietors will not hold themselves responsible for thefts of that kind ; nor even for things stolen from your bedroom, if you leave your room without locking the door, or go downstairs leaving the key in the door. In many p 74 Baggage and Boots ; ot^ hotels put up notices to that effect in each bedroom. You see we are a go-ahead people, and do things on a big scale here. Why, we're leaving you old fogies in England all behind." " Thank you. Go-ahead the Americans may be, and, according to your own showing, at taking other people's goods and chattels into the bargain." " Oh ! I did not sa^ these hotel thieves were Americans, We have persons from all parts staying in our hotels ; foreigners — some Britishers, who have followed pursuits that your Government have signally disapproved — ticket-of-leave men, &c." *^ Thank you, you're very polite ; I hope your insinuations are not directed against present corn- pan}^." ^' Not in the least : such a thouofht never crossed mv mind. It was certainly very thoughtless of me. I beg your pardon." " Granted. And now tell me how do you fjet your boots cleaned in your hotels ? " '^ Why, I guess you ring for the ^ boots,' and give him the pair you want cleaned. He takes them and does them at once, and brings them back to you, when you pay him for the shine, which I guess squares you, does it not?" " Oh! do you pay the man, don't they put it down in the hotel account ?" ** No. I found by experience when I was in England that you do things differently there. I did not know at first, and paid the ' boots ' each time he shined a pair for me, and that was four, and was SmitlCs First Peep at America, 75 quite astounded when I came to pay my bill to see down * Boots, two shillings.' " '^ As I am a long way from the hotel, I want to find a street shoeblack." ^* There are two shiners over there, sittins: on their boxes reading their newspapers. The boys here are great politicians, and you often have to kick them off their blocks in order to be attended to. I will rest myself on this seat till you return." I walked to the spot indicated ; had my boots cleaned by one of the urchins, and paid him two cents, and was walking off when the boy called after me : '^ Hi, orov'nor, look what you've o:iven me." I returned and looked at the money, thinking I might accidentally have handed the lad English half-pence by mistake ; but found I had not. "The money is right enough. What's the matter with it?" " Right enough, indeed ! I guess it's not. Why, there's only two cents here, I w^ant eight more." ''Then you'll not get it. What I ten cents for blacking boots in the street ? I never heard of such a thinr " 'g- "' That's the price. Down south the shiners get a quarter." " What's a quarter ? " At first the boy thought I was fooling him, but finding I was in earnest, and that I really asked for information, he replied : ^^ I guess ye're a stranger here, gov'nor, I mean a quarter dollar, twenty-five cents." 76 Baggage and Boots^ &c. " I don't believe you ; you never get a quarter, I'll warrant." *^ Oh, yes, I guess I did, last week, from a real gent. We shiners usually get a dime, and never less than a niekle." " What is a dime^ and how much is a niekle ? " The lad was much amused at my extreme igno- rance of American coinage, but informed me that a dime was ten cents, and a niekle half that sum. '^ I guess you seldom get more than a niekle." " Oh yes, we do," (then turning to his mate) " Don't we. Jack?" Jack assented with a—'' I guess we do." " I wish I had you lads where I came from. There you would get two cents, and be glad to get it." The boys ooked at each other, and stared with astonishment. "Where's that? " " Oh never mind, it does not signify. However, from what I can make out, the usual fee here is five cents, and that is what you will get now, although it is the first time in my life I have paid two-pence half-penny for having my boots blacked in the streets." So saying I crossed to where my friend was sitting, somewhat impatiently awaiting my return. " Mr. Smith, you appeared to be having quite an animated discussion with those boys ; what was it about. Pontics ?" " No ; Domestic Economy." CHAPTER VL Fulton Ferry — Ferry steamer — Prospect Park — A novel regatta — Green- wood Cemetery — Monuments, &c. — Brooklyn — East River Suspen- sion Bridge — Central Park ; its natural and artificially improved beaut icrf — American birds — English colonists of the feather tribe introduced — They learn bad manners— Zoological collection at Prospect Park— The Mall, Central Lake, and rambles — The cross roads — Fireflies. "[7 ROM Battery Park, I went with my friend to ■*- Fulton Ferry, a distance of about a quarter of a mile. Passing through the toll gate we paid the fare (two cents each) and entered a waiting room, where a number of other passengers were sitting or standing about. In a minute or so a bell rang, a gate leading to the dock was thrown open, and we all passed out. The large ferry steamer was before us : not sideways to the pier, but end on ; the boat being made just to fit the dock into which it runs, and is drawn quite close to the pier by means of chains and windlasses, in order that horses and carts may run on and off the steamer without danger. * These ferry steamers are about 150 feet long, by 50 feet wide. The hull is occupied by the boilers and stoke hole, and on the main deck, in the centre, is placed the cylinder of the large overhead-beam engine, which appears to be the only design of marine engine used by the Americans for their paddle steamers plying on the rivers, and round the coasts and sounds of the New 78 Baggage and Boots ; or York and New England States. On each siae of the engine is a sort of roadway, on to which vehicles, horses, and cattle are driven. On the outside of these aorain is the accommodation for the foot passengers ; the whole being covered over for protection from the weather. On the top of the roof are placed one, and sometimes two, small round wheelhouses, from which the vessel is steered, and the orders telegraphed to the engineer. Kew York Ferry boat. The passage across the river occupied about three minutes ; and on arrival at the Long Island side, the other end of the boat fitted into a dock just similar to the one described above — both ends of the steame. being made alike, to prevent the necessity of having to turn the boat round each time of crossing. SniitlCs First Peep at America, 79 On arriving Mr. Wilmot escorted me to his home, and introduced me to his wife, a good looking American lady of easy yet graceful manners, and evidently very young. During luncheon Mr. Wilmot asked me what I purposed doing with myself in the afternoon. *' I have no plan in particular, but as I want to make the most of my time, I think I may as well see what is to be seen in Brooklyn and its vicinity, now I am here. Perhaps you can direct me how to go about it." ^* With the greatest of pleasure, and as I have a leisure afternoon I will go with you, unless you object." " Of course not ; I shall be very pleased." So, after luncheon, I put myself under Wilmot's guidance, and we went by a " Flatbuhh Avenue horse- car "up to the noted Prospect Park. At the entrance there were public wagonettes in waiting, to make the tour of the park, which is 550 acres in extent. This is perhaps the pleasantest way of seeing it on a scorchingly hot afternoon. It is situated at a considerable elevation, and commands splendid views of Brooklyn and New York citieS; and harbour. In the park I noticed a number of masts and sails movinor to and fro as thousrh a regatta was taking place. On nearer iipproach, however, the masts proved to be fixed in a very long circular trough, some fifty or sixty feet in diameter, and about three feet wide by eighteen inches deep. The trough floated in the water, and was kept in its place by lines attached to a post fixed firmly in the bed of the lake, and round which the trough revolved like the tire 80 Baggage and Boots ; or, of a huge wheel round its axle. Seats were placed across this trough like those in a row-boat, and were occupied by several ladies and children, taking a sail in this very limited area. There are a number of deer in Prospect Park, which, however, are confined to certain preserves, divided off 'jy lofty fencing of stout wire. In another part of the park, there is situated a sort of farm yard. Among the stock are a few sheep from Southern Africa, of a very rare and peculiar breed. " Well, what do you think of our park ? " ^^ Oh, it's very much like an English Park. You do not, however, go in so largely for flowers and bedding out plants of variegated coloured leaves, as we do in our London parks." '' I guess its early yet, so if you have seen enough of this, we have time to visit Greenwood Cemetery. It is no great distance from here, and we can soon get there, if you would like to go. Of course you have heard of it ; it is the most noted cemetery in the world." " Yes, I've heard of it, and should very much like to see it." Greenwood Cemetery is situated to the west of Prospect Park, and about half way beween it and New York Bay. It embraces above 500 pcres of land, and was first opened as a cemetery in 1842. A quarter of an hour's walk brought us to it. ^' Whatever are these garden chairs stuck about here amonof the tombs forT " . " I guess they're put there by the friends of the deceased, in order that they may have somewhere to Smith's First Peep at Avterica. 81 rest, when they como to spend an hour or two watching by the graves of thei departed ones." ^* Oh, what a taste ! It would be a long while before you would catch me dwelling among the tombs in that way. Why ! I have always looked on graveyards and cemeteries as places rather to be avoided than otherwise." *'No wonder; so should I if I lived in England, and saw nothing but those horrid flat headstones you seem so fond of over thercj all crowded together in miserable doleful places, where you make no attempt at flower gardening, or smoothly-mown lawns, or anything to render the place attractive and cheerful." ^^ What a splendid monument that is, over there ? ' ^* Yes, I guess it is. Come and have a look at it. It is erected to the memory of Charlotte Cauda, a young ladv who died on the very day that had been fixed tor her wedding." " That was very sad. Over there I see a statue representing a captain, taking an observation at sea. I suppose a seafaring man is buried there." " Oh ! an old sea captain had that erected long before he died. It is a si itue of himself, and he used to come here frequently, when his ship was in port, and sit on a chair, such as you were remarking about just now, and spend his leisure time watching and admiring it from positions where he could obtain a good view." ^* Well, I never heard of such a thing before." " The same thing is frequently done in this country by those in a position to afford it." After spending over an hour in the cemetery, we made our way to the East entrance, in order, as Wilmot 82 Baggage and Boots ; or said, that I might see the way it was decorated ; from thence we returned by horse car to the city. FjU route, Wilmot pointed out the Court House, a large building with white marble front, and a very fine portico, and an iron dome ; and facing it, the City Hall, also of white marble, surmounted by a belfry with a four-dial clock ; also several other public buildings of less importance. Declininor Mr. Wilmot's kind invitation to return with him to his house to spend the evening, I continued my journey in the tram-car, right to Fulton Ferry. As I crossed the water, the glorious rays of the evening sun beautifully illuminated the great East River Suspension Jhudge. * * This stupendous engineering work crosses the East River, here over a quarter of a mile wide, in one span. On either side of the river are two towers, of massive masonry, each 268 feet high, over the top of which are stretched the massive cables from which the bridge is suspended. The exact span between the towers on either side is 1,595 i^.^L The bridge is 85 feet wide, and consists of two lines for horse-cars (tram-cars), four carriage ways, and two foot-paths. It was commenced in 1871, and has cost more than 10,000,000 dols. There was a great deal of opposition to its erection, especially from ship-owners, and wharfingers, whose wharves lay on the East River, above the bridge, as their vessels have to take down their topmasts before they can pass under, and several accidents have occurred. On landing I walked up Fulton Street, and took the Elevated Railroad to 3rd Avenue and 34th Street, from whence I had but four or five minutes' walk to SmitlCs First Peep at America. 83 reach my hotel. On arrivmt^ I found a lar^e number of the oruests stavinfr in the house were assembled in the drawing-room, where a pleasant social entertain- ment was sroino: forward, consistinor of readings and recitations, interspersed with vocal and instrumental music. The next morning I went up 6th Avenue for a mile or so, until I reached Central Park, which I entered by what is known fiS the Artists' Gate, which, however, is merely an entrance place, the gate being missing. Central Park is rectangular in shape, and contains an area of just one and a quarter square miles; being two and a half miles long, by half a mile in width. It is situated, as nearly as possible, in the centre of Man- hattan Island, the whole of v/hich, to the south of the park, is thickly built over ; the mile or so of land on either side of it (to the Hudson and East Rivers respec- tively), less so, especially on the western side ; while to the north, although maps of New York show the island ruled out in avenues and streeis, some of these as yet exist only on paper. Central Park is totally unlike Prospect Park, and to an Englishman's way of thinking, vastly superior. Nature has been assisted by art to render it a most charming spot. The thick foliage in every direction, the jutting rocks, the shaded walks and trellis-work arbours, very extensively and thickly overgrown w^ith American vine (or Westeria) are very enjoyable. There are several sweetly pretty, though small, ornamental sheets of water. In addition to these, there are some very large reservoirs of water, for the supply of the city, 84 Baggage and Boots ; or, situated about the centre of the park. The southern end is by far the most visited (or patronized, as our American cousins say), and consequently more care and attention have been expended on this portion. In parts, the rocks and lakes, with pines, and other trees of the fir tribe, together combining to make the visitor forget he is really in the midst of a large city, and requiring but little imagination to picture himself transplanted to some lovely nook in Switzerland. In the early month of summer the visitor finds the maornolia tree with its large white tulip-shaped blossom in full bloom. On the more open parts are to be seen gorgeous peacocks, strutting about the grass ; while as the visitor wanders about among the thickets of the less frequented parts, he, every now and then, starts a rabbit or a squirrel. Blue birds, jays, and other bright specimens of the feathered tribe flit from tree to tree ; while the familiar sparrows are here in thousands. Twenty years ago, they were unknown in America. A few years later, however, a few pairs were imported from Enorland, and let loose in Central Park, in the hope that they would be able to do, what none of the beautiful birds indigenous to the locality seem able to accomplish, viz.: — to keep under the swarms of grubs, caterpillars, and insects with which the place was infested. : The plan, however, appeared a failure, as instead of multiplying, in a few months the new colonists all dis- appeared ; probably succumbing to the severity of their first North- American winter ; unless, indeed, they met with a more violent death at the hands of the native Smith's First Peep at Ainerica. 85 tribes of the feathered race, to whom thev were forei^jners and enemies. In the following year, however, the experiment was tried again, another twenty-five pairs being imported from the old comitry, and let loose in Central Park. They furthermore received legal protection, it being made a punishable offence to kill an Englisi\ sparrow ; anyone so transgressing being made liable to a fine of five dollars. This time the result surpassed the most sanguine expectation of the promoters of the idea. Not only did the new comers hold their own against other birds, but they multiplied rapidly, and to general astonishment survived the severitv of the winter months, and soon became thoroughly acclimatized. As their numbers increased, they fulfilled all that their advocates had promised for them. Under the incentive of their hungry little stomachs, and vigilant search, the plague of insects was rapidly reduced. Not content with this, they went fr.r beyond what was required of them. In the same way that the aboriginal races disappeared before the advance of the ^vhite man, so, no sooner were these Anglo-Saxon sparrows firmly established in their new colony, than they made war, and drove out before them thousands of the smaller birds indiojenous to the land. ^' I never saw such little creatures to fi«rht," said an old man, wdio had been relating the above facts to me. " I come from the old country, and can remember the sparrows at home well, but I never saw them fight there like they do here.'* '^ I'm afraid they have learnt bad manners off the Americans," I replied. ^' When they see the head of 86 Baggage and Boots ; or^ the animal world carrying pistols about in orJor to avenge any and every little insult no wonder they learn to be pugnacious." ^' Why, see them down town," continued the old man, " in front of the City Hall, there, how bold and impudent they are ; they will hop about the path, quite close to you. Why, when persons are sitting on the seats there, eating biscuits or what not, I've actually seen them come and pick up the crumbs they have dropped, and fly off with them with all the impudence in the world, and not seem in the least afraid." " They are not the only inhabitants of New York that have plenty of cheek," I laughingly interposed. '^ I guess they remind me of those pigeons I remember seeing many a time in London, that would almost trip you up when you crossed the courtyard in front of the Guildhall. Are they there still ? " " Well, perhaps not the identical pigeons you re- member, but their descendants are. You know the City Companies are very conservative, and I presume the company of pigeons that inhabit the precincts of the Guildhall, among the rest. Now, can you tell me what is best worth seeing here ? " " I guess there is a collection of wild animals, ou^ here in the south-eastern corner of the park, and then, a liltle to the north, is the museum. Then, about a mile further to the north, is the new museum ; there you have to pay twenty-five cents for admission on Mondays and Tuesdays ; the other days are free." "Thank you, I'm much obliged, I'll wish you good- morning." The zoological collection alluded to above, SNiii/is First Peep at America, 87 I found to be very small and poor ; especially when compared with the splendid collection at Regent's Park, London, and I could not help thinking it rather a dis- credit to so large a city as New York, that that should be the sole collection they could boast. There was on© large African elephant there ; it was confined in a cage, so small that it could scarcely move round, in addi- tion to which, it was tantalized by being chained by a leg. The polar bear, also, was basking in a tempera- ture of nearly ninety degrees, without any water to dis- port himself in, other than that which flowed from an indiarubbor hose, temporarily inserted into his cage. Pursuing my rambles northward, I came to a broad gravel walk called the Mall, up and down w^hich little children were being driven in goat chaises at five cents a '' ride." On either side of this path are pedestals, surmounted by statues of various American and British celebrities in the political and poetical world ; such as Shakespeare, Burns, Scott, &c., including a pedestal, a sort of " reserved seat," the inscription on which informs the visitor that it is intended for a statue of Daniel O'Connell. Across the northern end of the Mall is an erection of masonry, called the Terrace, with a broad flight of steps by which the visitor descends to a small sheet of water, twenty acres in extent, called Central Lake, on which row-boats can be hired at fifty cents per hour. Beyond the lake, to the north, the visitor can take an enjoyable stroll, through a part very appro- priately called the ^'Rambles," and a little beyond you reach the reservoirs for the low-service water supply to the city. They are two in number, the smaller one ^8 Baggage and Boots ; or, occupying thirty-five acres, and the larger one, one hundred and six. To the north of the large reservoir but little has Ijeen done in the way of artificial improvement. In fact, on many acres of this public property a large crop of barley was being reared, for whose especial benefit I could not imamne. There are four roads across the park, for the accom- modation of the street traffic from one side to the other. In order that this should not mar the rural features of the park, chey cross in deep cuttings ; the park drives and walks b3ing carried over, on broad bridges, with banks of shrubs on either side, so that any stranger making the ^^tour " of the park by the broad carriage- drive is hardly aware of their existence. The two upper ones especially, seem however, to be but little used. In the north-east corner of the park is a small but pretty sheet of water, called the Harlem Lake. I was in no hurry to return to the hotel ; so spent the whole day " exploring " the place. As evening came on, I could not make out whatever was the matter with my eyes. I appeared to see little sparks of light every few seconds give a momentary flash and disappear. Now here, then there, I was at first sorely puzzled to account for it ; I felt no pain, and knew of nothing amiss with my eyesight. Presently I became convinced that it was, after all, no defect in my vision, but that the sparks of light were really among the grass and bushes. Suddenly it dawned upon me that I was now beholding for the first time an insect that I had sometimes read about, but had never seen, namely the fire-fly. I wanted to SmitJis First Peep at America. 89 examine one, but found them difficult to catch, as I could only tell their whereabouts by their little lantern, which flashed forth in the most unexpected places, and was out in an instant. However, I succeeded at last, and im- prisoned one in my handkerchief until I should have an opportunity of examining it under a gas-lamp. It was long and narrow, about three-quarters of an inch in length, and in appearance considerably resembled the insect commonly called a '' soldier " by country children in England. It is the under part of the body from which the flashes of light are given forth every few seconds ; so that it is only when on the wing that you notice it, as its little lamp is hid by its body and wings when restino[ on the ground. CHAPTER VII. Jersey City — Wood-framed Villas — Coloured Domestic Servants — Liberty,Eqaality, Fraternity —Sheets and Table-cloths— New York City Hall — G. P. 0. arrangements — The leading Newspaper Offices — Western Union Telegraph Office — Telegraphic arrangements — Trinity Church — Wall Street — United States Sub-Treasury — Custom House — Stock Exchange scene — Street paving — Local excursions — The Cooper Institute — New York street vendors — Smith buys a banana, and does not know what it is. ANE afternoon I went, by invitation, across to Jersey ^ City to spend the evening with an American gentleman, whose acquaintance I had made while on the voyage. Meeting this friend by arrangement, at the depot of the Jersey Central Railroad, at the foot of Liberty Street, we crossed the river in one of the huge ferry boats, and proceeded one mile further by train, to Communipaw, once an old Indian village. Here I was surprised to find how large a number of the private houses are built of wood. On further acquaintance, I found them very comfortable inside ; where you would not know but that you were in a brick or stone built house. In most cases the street door stood wide open. There was, however, an outer door with panels of wire gauze, which reminded nee if large meat safes. These are kept closed, to keep out the mosquitoes, while yet allowing the house to be thoroughly ventilated by the passing breezes. I was also surprised to find that among private families, negresses were as largely engaged as domestic SmitlCs First Peep at America. 91 servants as their black brothers were at the hotels ; and was much amused at seeing, for the first time, a coloured maid waiting upon the family at meals. The white people look upon their darker skinned brethren with a good deal of contempt ; as though a black skin could not contain a generous heart, or an enlightened mind ; and though acknowledging that they make good servants, at the same time are careful to add that that is only as long as you keep them in their place, and make them feel the inferiority of race. The negro population, on the other hand, by no means appear to acknowledge this inferiority, nor that a black skin is any less beautiful than a white one ; indeed, they are often exceedingly vain of their personal appearance, and spend much time before the looking glass. I spent a very pleasant evening, and at the pressing invitation of my host and hostess staved the ni^ht. The next mornincr my friend asked me if I slept well, and found my bed comfortable. I thanked him, and said I was very comfortable indeed. '^ Then you were more fortunate than a gentleman was who slept in that room one night last autumn. My wife and daughter were away at the time, up in New Hampshire somewhere ; and feeling like a poor forlorn bachelor, I had accepted my friend's invitation to go with him to an entertainment up town. It was very late when it was over, and I persuaded him to come homo with me and sleep here, as he lived much further of^', and, being a single man, had no wife to be uneasy at his non-appearance. It was past midnight when we arrived and the maids had gone to bed loner before. So after rummaging about in the larder for something to eat, I 92 Baggage and Boots ; or, gave him some matches, and directed him to our visitors' room, where you slept last night ; and was just turning into my room, which is the one below, when I heard him shakinof his sides with laughter. So I called out to him ' Whatever is the matter with you ? what have you found up there ? ' to which he replied, * You had better come up and see for yourself.' So I went up, and found him still in convulsions of laughter, when he pointed to the bed ; where, to my astonishment, a dark little head, with fuzzy black hair, was peeping out from between the bedclothes. It was one of our maids, who, taking advantage of my wife's absence, and never dreaming of anyone coming upstairs, had taken possession of the best bedroom. I did feel so angry with her. I sent my visitor down stairs again, and ordered her to get up and take the sheets off the bed ; and although it was past the middle of the night, I made her take them down to the wash-house and wash them, then and there. Then what to do with my gaest, I hardly knew. However we went to my wife's linen cupboard, and got out another pair of sheets ; and together, he and I somehow made up the bed, and he retired to rest. In the morning I asked him how he had slept, to which he replied, ^ Fairly well, only I guess I found those sheets precious stiff.' A few days after, when my wife returned home, she was almost as angry with me as I had been with the maid, as she informed me that I had placed my visitor to sleep between two of her best table-cloths." After breakfast I returned to the city with my friend who kindly spared an hour from business in order to show me about a bit. SjuU/is First Peep at America. 93 Walking down town tlie first object lie pointed out was the <-'ity Hall : a substantial building, w^ith front and sides of white marble, and occupied by offioes and courts, for civic and judicial purposes. It stands some distance back &om the Broadway and sideways to it, its front, which looks towards the south, facing a nice open squg^re, laid out in grass, and crossed by concreted footpaths. On the opposite side of this open space stands the tsneral Post Office, an immense, four- storied erection^ built entirely of granite, at a cost of 7,000,000 dols. It occupied a plot of ground nearly triangular in shape ; the small park just alluded to forming the base, while Broadway en one side and Park How on the other, joining at the southern end, form the two sides. On entering I was surprised to find how largely the New Yorkers went in for the box system, which can be rented from three dollars per quarter, and of which there were several thousand. I also observed that the officials lefi; a (jreat deal of the letter sorting to be done by those who posted them, there being a separate posting place for each state, which arrangement was further divided by having special boxes for all the great cities. This system causes the office to present a very animated appearance ; clerks, with a number of letters to post dodging from pillar to post, and pushing by one another like bees in a hive, according to the destination of the correspondence. After dark the building is lit up by the electric light. Near the Post Office, on the Park Row side, is the lofty red brick office of the ^* Tribune Newspaper," and a little further down that of the " New York Herald." 94 Baggage and Boots ; or^ I was grieved to learn that both these newspapers are published on Sunday just as on any other day ; and that their offices are open then for the receipt of advertisements and all ordinary business. Opposite the " flerald " office is St. Paul's Church,, and also the noted Astor House, a first-class hotel, and ' very centrally situated, but expensive. A little lo^er down Broadway are the *' Western Union Telegiaph Offices," a lofty red brick building of ten stories and surmounted by a clock tower. The base- ment is used as an office for receivinor messaojes for trans- mission. It also contains, under glass cases, some o the earliest instruments and machines used for tele- graphic purposes, long since superseded by more perfect inventions. Ascendinn: in an elevator to the tor) of the building, the visitor enters the battery room, where is - a steam engine working three dynamo machines for the production of electricity. There are also thousands of glass bottles there, where the electric agent was being generated by means of chemical action. You can then pass on up another flight of stairs into a small gallery overlooking the operating room ; where a large number of young ladies and gentlemen are busily employed receivino: and transmittino: messages from and to all parts of the continent. From the receiving office, in the basement, to the operating room, the messages are conveyed by means of pneumatic tubes. In America the telegraphs are not worked in witli the Post Office, nor do they form a Government monopoly as in England, but the service is undertaken by public companies, of which there are several, the Smith's First Peep at America. 95 Western Union beinor the lar^^est and most important. The result of this is, that where there is much opposition between any two places, the rate of telegraphing is very low. The companies also undertake the transmission of night telegrams at reduced rates ; usually half-price. Messages thus designated can be given in at any time, but are not delivered specially, but by a regular morning delivery similar to a postal delivery. Having satisfied my curiosity at the telegraph offices I pursued my walk down the Broadway. A little further on is the splendid granite built building of the Equitable Life Insurance Company on the left, and immediately beyond the noted Trinity Church on the right. It was begun in 1839 and completed in 1846. Trinity parish is the oldest in the city, and the present Church is most wealthily endowed ; the lands from which its income is derived havinor risen to a fabulous value, since the first Church was built in 1696, and which was destroyed by fire in 1776. I had just bidden good-bye for the present to my kind friend, who was compelled to leave me on account of business enoraorements he was obliored to attend to. and was walking slowly along, noticing the various public buildings, and was just opposite Trinity Church, when I was accosted by another New York gentleman, a Mr. Kellog, whose acquaintance I had made during the voyage across. After a few general remarks he asked me where I was oroinor. '' Nowhere in particular," I answered, " I am only strolling about to see your principal public buildings and such like." 96 Baggage and Boots ; or, '^ Have you been into Trinity Church ?" '' No." ^' Then come with me. There is somethinor there I should like to show you. I guess it will amuse you." We accordingly entered. The church is large and handsome, and has rich stained glass windows. Mr. Kellog conducted me to a small vestibule at the further end, and, pointing to a broken tablet inserted in the wall, said, *^ Look at the spelling and division of words there." It reads as follows : — STo tf)e JHemorg, &(., Of OBADIAH HUME, with his Wife, SUSANITAH, From Credly in Hearifordsheir in Oldinglandj &c., &c. We then climbed over three hundred steps up tu the steeple, but were well repaid for our exertion by the splendid view of the city and harbour we obtained. On leaving Trinity Church, Mr. Kellog said, " Now, I guess there is no need to follow the Broadway further ; beyond this it consists principally of the offices of the various steamboat companies and shipping merchants, and leads down to the battery. Le* us go down this street opposite ; it is Wall Street, the great street for our large bankers and financial agents. There, on the left, at the corner of the next block, is the United States Sub-Treasury, where the Government banking SimtJCs First Peep at America. 97 business is transacted ; and a little beyond is the Custom House ; there is but little in there that you will care to see ; but if you will come this way, it is just the busy time on the Stock Exchancre, and I oruess you will be interested in seeino: how excited the brokers oret over their buying and selling." We accordingly made our way into the strangers' gallery, when I looked down upon the greatest hubbub I had ever seen in my life. The pulling and pushing and shouting at the top of their voices of about a couple of hundred persons united to create a scene of the wildest confusion. " Well ! what do you think of it ? " " Why, that it's the nearest approach to an Irish row I ever saw in my life." " I guess a good many of them descend from that nationality. In matters of local management also, the Irish have it pretty much their own way in this city." " Perhaps that may account for your streets being so badly paved." ^* Do you think they are ? " *' Certainly, why as 1 walk along in the evening I keep catching the toe of my boot against projecting flags, which upset my equilibrium every other minute." " But look at the frost we get here every winter." " I don't see what that has to do with it." " Everything. When the frost comes, it cracks the earth and bulges up the paving stones in the way you see. Nothing wdll prevent it, and to keep them in th way you think they ought to be kept, it would require them to be relaid every spring. We do not stumble as 98 J^^gg^g^ CLud Boots ; 0}% you describe ; you should lift your feet a little more as you walk, and then you would be all right." ^' Oh ! I see now what causes the New Yorkers to be such proverbial ' high steppers.' " ^^ I should have liked to have spent the day with you, showing you about and teaching you the ^ American step ' ; but business must be attended to, so I guess I must leave you to find your way about by yourself." *' Many thanks for the trouble you have already taken ; where do you recommend me to go this afternoon so as to use the limited time I have to the best advan- tage ?" '* I guess you might take the ferry-boat from pier 22 or 24, and go up the East River to Harlem or High Bridge. That would give you an opportunity of seeing some of our war ships, lying otf the United States Navy Yard, on the Long Island shore ; as also of the asylums and Government Buildings on Blackwall Wards and Randall's Islands. There are ferries to these islands, but if you want to visit them you must first get an order from the Commissioners of Public Charities, at the corner of 3rd Avenue and 11th Street: or if you prefer the sea, Brighton Beach and Coney Island are most enjoyable, only it is almost as well to make a day of it when you go there. You might, however, take the steamer from No. 1 pier, East River, and spend an hour or two at Staten Island. It contains some nice walks and drives and many pretty villas, belonging to mer- chants in New York. It is the largest of the islands in the bay, of which you obtain a fine view in running down and back on the steamer. Then, in the evening SmitKs First Peep at America, 9i> you might take a walk along Bowrs', which is the great shopping thoroughfare for the lower classes ; and see what an amount of trade is done there on Saturday, night. Or you might be interested in visiting the 'Cooper Institute, which is a philanthropic institution, containing a free library and reading room, and where a free night school is held for the very poor classes, to whom free lectures are also given. It is a very large building, Blackwell s Island. occupying an entire block between 3rd and 4th Avenues, and 7th and- 8th Streets. By the way, what do you intend to do with yourself to-morrow, Sunday ? " " I proposed to hear the Reverend Ward Beecher preach. I would have gone last Sunday but could not very well, only landing that morning." " Is that so ? I can't make it out. All the English- men that come over here are mad to run after Ward 100 ^^gg^gc and Boots ; or, Beecher, the first thing. Why! althoucrh I live in Brooklyn, it is ten years sinee]I was in his church." "A prophet is not without honour save in his own country." " If you will cross by Fulton Ferry about ten o'clock in the morning I will meet you on the other side, and we will go together and hear Mr. Beecher ; I see he is ad- vertised to preach to-morrow." " Many thanks for your kindness. I shall be sure to come." *' Well, I must be off at once, I guess. I'll see you again to-morrow morning. Fulton Ferry — Ten o'clock —Don't forget." ^^ All right, thank you, I'll remember." After watching the tumult beneath for a minute or two longer I left the strangers' gallery of the Stock Exchange, and again made my way into the Broadway. There were a number of hawkers standing at the edge of the pavement selling all sorts of small trinkets in the same manner as I had ever remembered them doing at home, only the price was usually, ^^ Only five cents, sir; only five cents "; whereas, at home, this class of vendors nearly always cry their goods at a penny. The greatest novelty to me was the fruit on the costermongers'barrows in size and shape a good deal resembling a large pork sausage. I wondered whatever it could be, ticketed two, three, and five cents apiece. I fain would have asked what they were but did not like to betray my ignorance. I had seen them occasionally in London, and wondered how it was they had never excited my curiosity before, but concluded it was their great SmitlCs First Peep at Ainerica. 101 abundance here that so attracted my attention. I had an idea that they were plantains, and. would have bought one and tried it, only I did not know how to eat it, whether to bite it through just as it was as one would an apple, or if there was any peel or rind to come oft' first. Again, I did not like to ask, but, as my in- quisitiveness increased, I determined to stay about near a barrow full of them and watch, until I had seen some one else buy and eat one, that I might know how to set about it. As ill-luck would have it no purchasers patronised the stock I was watching for some time, and I got so jostled about by the passing crowd that I took refuge a few paces down a side street, at the corner of which the costermonger was standing with his goods. After waiting a few minutes a young man stopped and selected one, and I saw him burst open the soft outer rind by giving it a slight pinch which split it from end to end, take out the soft pithy fruit inside and begin to eat. *^ Thank you, my worthy friend, I can do that," so I immediately went up to the barrow, purchased one, and followed my instructor up the Broadway. I, hov/ever, was still unaware of what I had got, but came to the conclusion that as I should have to confess my ignorance to some one before I could find out I might as well ask the young man before me, who was eating the one he had just bought. So touching him on the shoulder I enquired the name of the fruit he was eating. The man I touched turned round, when, to my utter astonish- ment, I found it was not the one I intended to ask, and that I must have lost my man in the crowd, for the 102 ^^gg^g^ ^^^^ Boots , Q^c; person I touched was eating an apple. I was, there- fore, unable to put my query in the form I had intended, namely, " Would you kindly inform me the name of the fruit you are eating?" I felt that I would be mistaken for a lunatic to ask such a childish question, although to the New Yorker the question I did ask was equally as absurd. Holding out my purchase I said, '' What is the name of this fruit ?' The man stared at me in blank astonishment." *' I guess you're escaped from Ward's Island ; or else ye're trying to make a fool of me." *' No, indeed I am not. I do not know what I have got, and ask for information." '' Well, then," remarked the stranger as he passed on, " I don't know where you can come from ; but I guess ye're the first man I ever saw grow up so ignorant. How- ever, if ye really don't know I guess I'll tell ye. It's a banana^ sometimes called a plantain," CHAPTER VIII. Sunday in Brooklyn — Plymouth Church — Floral Decorations— Fans — The Rev. Ward Beecher's discourse — Some American Sunday Schools— Black Skins and White Skins— Smith argues their E([uality — Goes to Plymouth Church again in the evening. AN Sunday, I met Mr. Kellog, as arranged, and we ^ went together to hear the llev. Ward Beecher. With the size and architecture of his church I was much disappointed. The exterior is a very meagre looking structure, of red-brick, coming within six feet or so of the pubKc roadway, and forms part of a terrace of houses, in a quiet, but respectable side street. Nor was the inside so large as 1 had expected to find. I had anticipated that the great American preacher held forth in a building, and to an audience, as large as his con- temporary's in Newingfcon Butts, London ; and was sur- prised, on entering, to find myself in a building, nearly square, and surrounded by one deep gallery, and seating, at a rough guess, not more than half as many people as the Metropolitan Tabernacle. The platform was splendidly decorated with flowers, for which the con- gregation vote a sum of 500 dollars per annum (over £100) ; and in the midst of the floral show sat the reverend oratqr, lustily fanning himself with a Japanese palm leaf. The worthy deacons, who were showing 104 Baggage and Boots ; or, strangers to seats, were also doing tbe same. The service was commenced without any announcement from the minister, by the choir rising and singing : " Who are these in white raiment and whence came they?" After a short opening prayer, the congregation joined in singing, '' How did my heart rejoice to hear," &c. The minister then read the thirteenth chapter of Paul's first Epistle to the Corinthians, which was followed by another prayer, and then the collection, a part of the programme never omitted from an American service. The hymn, ^' When all Thy mercies, my God," was then sung, followed by the sermon. The reverend orentleman took for his text the third verse of Jude's Epistle: '^Earnestly contend for the faith which w^as once delivered unto the saints." He commenced by saying that pride, aiTogance, perverted conscience, evil speaking, slander, and many other sins, people try to shelter under this verse ; but Jude was speaking of that faith which brings newness of life. We are to contend for the faith by a Christian life, and walk, and con- versation. It was a false assumption that the church was authoritative ; and that to its edicts men must im- plicitly yield the dictates of their own consciences. It is a false theorv of the duties of conscience, if we think it is our duty to domineer and rule over the con- sciences of those who differ from us. This false theory has, before now, led to the persecution, imprisonment, and martyrdom, of some of the best men and women who ever lived. The spirit of judgment, and of criticism, and of dislike, is anti-Christian. Men attempt, by machinery, to promote piety. Such efforts are always S J nit /is First Peep at Aimrica. 105 futile ; and instead of attaining tlieir object, engender only infidelity and atheism. The service was concluded by a short prayer ; and after the hymn coinmencin;^, " Dauorhter of Zion, from the dust," had been sunor the concrreiration was dis- missed with the benediction. Mr. Kellog's house was a long way from Plymouth Church, and on our \> ay there he asked me how I liked what I had seen and heard. ^' I liked Mr. Ward Beecher's sermon very much, and also his bearinir, and manner of conductincr the service. What a venerable looking old gentleman he is, with his \ox\^ silvery hair nearlv on to his shoulders. He is evidently an older man than I had expected to find." •' Now, this afternoon I propose taking you to see some of our Sunday Schools, if you would like to do so. You know we, here in America, are strong on Sunday Schools." *' Yes, I know you are : and I should like to see how vou manao;e." In fulfilment of this promise, Mr. Kellog took me to see two Sunday Schools. On entering the first, we sat down on a bench reserved for visitors. Our entering did not attract the children's attention, as it would in an English Sunday School ; as visitors, parents of the scholars, and others, are constantly coming and going, listening for a few minutes to what is going forward, and then taking their departure again. After staying some little time in the main school, we went into a nice light room adjoining, tastefully decorated, where a large number of infants were being taught a n 106 Baggage and Boots ; or^ new hymn. After a few minutes' slay here, we took our departure in order to visit the Sunday School in con- nection with a neighbouring Congregational Church. We arrived in time to hear the closing exercises, and the superintendent give out a long string of notices, the most interesting to the children evidently being one aboui their annual excursion, which was to take place that week. It was a splendid laro;e school-room, situated upstairs ; lorty and well lighted, and provided with a deep gallery round the further end. The furniture of the school also showed the care and attention that was bestowed on the comfort of the scholars. As we walked home, Mr. Kellog asked me, ^' How I liked American Sunday Schools ?" " Uh, you do indeed have splendid accommodation, but there are one or two thinofs that do not seem to me quite the thing." " Such as ?" "Well, for instance, in that school we have just left, close to the back, where we were sitting, there was a coloured i^entleman teachinor a class of black bovs and girls mixed. I don't see why they should be made in a separate class by themselves." " I suppose, because so few coloured children come to that school that it is not worth while to make a separate class for the boys and another for the girls ; that is why they are mixed, or it may be that they have not another coloured teacher." " That is not my meaning at all. Why are they not put here and there, in different classes with the other children, according to their sex, age and ability ? " yJimitJis First Peep at America. 107 ^^ I don't suppose the other children would like it, nor their parents either ; and besides, I guess the coloured children would not like it either. The other children would be sure to keep as far off them as they could, and give them the cold shoulder, and they would feel the difference much more than when they have a class to themselv^es, as at present," ^^ The diiTerence, indeed, what difference ? Wherein does Jt lie? Is it in the colour of their skin? The other cb ddren need not fear that it will come off and black theirpretty white muslin dresses. Is it that they are less clever ? Their bright, intelligent faces tell a different tab from that. Is it that they are less attentive?: -"As I looked at the various classes there, I could see none that were paying more attention to what their t>3acher was savin or to them, or that san«: more heartily, or that were more devout during prayer, than they. Do the others consider them to belong to a lower order of beings, or more degraded than them- selves ? . ; 1 hope not. But if they do, what is it they come to KJundav School for ? Is it not to learn that God sent His Soa to save the degraded, the lost, the despised ? They shonJd remember that ' The Lord seeth not as man seeth, for man lookeih on the outward appearance, but the Lore} looketh on the heart.' " "Mycfcar Mr. Smith, I had no idea you could fire up so. I tfeink you judge rather harshly. You know there are Sunday Schools devoted entirely to coloured children, where there are no whites. They should atttTiid them.'' " Thereought to be no need for such places. Why, -i^:. 108 Baggage and Boots ; or, as I sat there, in that school, with all its admirable arrangements, I could not help feelin^s^ indignant at a distinction being drawn between the colours of the children's skin. I only know that if I were a teacher there, I would sooner take that class cf ^'onng coloured people than any other in the school." '' They might not be willing to have you. You have only been in the country a few days ; were you to stay a twelvemonth you would discover that there are many difBcultles in the way of that perfect equality which at present you think should exist. But now to change the subject, what would you like to do this eveninof ? Shall we qo to Plvmoutli Church aorain, or shall we take a strolK or would vou like to sto and hear 'I/O Dr. Talmage, now you are in Brooklyn ? " " Thank you, I think I should prefer to go to Ply- mouth Church aorain." Accordingly^, in the evening, we again made our way to Plymouth Church. The service was commenced by the choir singing to the congregation, " Lift up thine eyes," &c., and after the usual preliminary exercises, Mr. Beecher preached from Romans v. 20, 21 : '' More- over the law entered that the offence mifjlit abound. But where sin abounded, grace did much more abound," &c. The reverend gentleman commenced by remarking that in the physical law, " intent " had no place in influ- encing the penalty. In the moral law it has. He went on to observe that in God's law, real repentance obtains immediate and full forgiveness. God has said, "the soul that ginneth, it shall die," yet wlien a sinner truly repents, God does not quote that text to him Sjnitli's First Peep at Avteriea, 109 and say, '' Now, in order to forgive you and keep My word, yon must go through a certain prescribed ordeal and penance." No I such is not God's way of for- giveness. God meeis true penitence with free and immediate and complete forgiveness. I left the church much interested and impressed. Mr. Kellog insisted on accompanying me as far as the ferry, w here we parted after obtaining a promise that I would be sure to call on him in the city before leaving New Tork. CHAPTER IX. A New York Public School — The " Baggage " nuisance again — Rail- road ticket agents — The hotel clerks sell them on commission — Courtland Street Depot — Checking the baggage — Ferry — Clocks at Grand Central Depot, Jersey City — Different standards of time adopted by various lines — American railroad cars — Description of locomotives — Speed of travelling, &c — Philadelphia — — Convenience of the American " check " system — Independence Hall — Custom House — Carpenter's Hall — The Mint — Bank Notes for 25 cents — Franklin's grave — Girard College — Fairmount Park Water-works and pumping machinery — A Trip on the Schuykill — Centennial Exhibition Buildings— Skating Rink — Temperature 90 degrees — Philadelphia Zoological Gardens — The "Dextrel'* Mausoleum at Woodlands Cemetery — Arch Street Methodist Church and Schools — Arrangements for infant class, &c. 'THE Americans and the English differ very widely as regards the education of the children of the middle and upper classes. In England the Public Board Schools are looked upon as only intended for the children of the lower classes; while in America, private schools are almost unknown^ and not at all popular ; the children of high and low, rich and poor, studying together in the Public Schools. I visited the school in 12th Street, and asked permission to see what was going on. I was very politely received, and show^n all over the building. The 12 th Street Public School is for girls only, of w^hom there were about six hundred on the books. The teachers were all ladies, the hall porter appearing the only representative of the male sex connected with the establishment. The scholars looked intelligent and attentive, and nothing calculated to assist the intellect SmitJCs First Peep at America. Ill to ur. Jerstand, or the mind to remember, was wantiiifr. Good jraer was maintained, ine girls doing everything in unison ; sneh as marching to and from their respective classes, which thev did to the time of a mlHtary air (or other piece of music, where the time is well accented) played upon the pianoforte by one of the young ladies themselves. The girls were well dressed, and were evidently, for the most p; i, daughters of persons in comfortable circumstances. The education received, together with books, stationery, and every requisite, were all supplied free of charge, the whole of the expenses being paid out of the public revenue ; the United States Government evidently believing that if a man has a large family to bring up, he is doing his quota towards the public weal, and should be relieved of, or at least assisted in, the expense of educating them ; furthermore, that this expense can best be met, and is not contrary to national polity, by levying taxes, largely subscribed to by old maids and bachelors. It w^as Wednesday afternoon when I left New York for Philadelphia. As I found it a ^x^2ii nuisance to be cumbered with so much luggage, I determined to take with me no more than I could comfortably pack in one moderate-sized portmanteau, and to leave the rest at the hotel until my return, an arrangement to which they w^ere quife agreeable, as it secured my custom again w^hen I came back. The porter, therefore, attached small metal cheques to each piece, and stowed them away in the baggage room, giving me the tallies. The clerk asked me if I had purchased my ticket. 112 Baggage and Boots ; or, " No, not yet, I will buy it at tlie station." " Yoii may as well have it of nie, it will cost you no more." ^* Oh, I see ; I suppose the Railway Company give you a commission. Well, will it cost me any less by havin": it of vou? " " Not on so short a journey. The companies cut it very fine now. I shall only get a quarter (/.^., of a dollar) on this ticket. Where are you going after Philadelphia ? for if you like to buy your ticket of me for the whole route, I don't mind sharing the com- mission.'* " Oh no! I don't care to do that, I may wish to diverge from my intended route, and then I should lose instead of gain ; but I don't mind having the Philadelphia ticket of you." The hotel clerk sent the " boots" out to buy the ticket from an agent's, a few doors off; and he soon returned with one bv the Pennsvlvania Central route, for which I paid two and a half dollars. I then went down to the depot, at the foot of Courtland Street, where I found my portmanteau, which had preceded me an hour before by *• express." The porters did not label my luggage as in England, but strapped a small metal check, stamped with a number, to the handle ; at the same time giving me a duplicate, engraved with the same numeral, and punching the letters B. C. (baggage checked) out of my ticket. I then went on board one of the company's great ferry steamers, and in a few minutes was conveyed across the river, to the Jersey City Grand Central Depot of this great trunk line. S J nit It's First Peep at America. 113 All over Great Britain wo find it advantageous to sot our clocks to corresponJ with one another, and in consequence of the comparative smallness of the country, the slight incorrectness of such time, in places lying east or west of the meridian of Greenwich, and the true local time of such places, causes us no inconvenience. But, in the United States, the country is so vast, and embraces so manv deorrees of longitude, that such an arrangement is totally impracticable. For instance, between the port of Boston, on the Atlantic coast, and that of !San Francisco, on the Pacific, there is a difference of over fifty degrees of longitude, representing a difference in time of three hours and twenty minutes. Local time is, therefore, adopted in all the large cities throughout the Republic ; and when travellinor west, unless vou bear this fact in mind, you are apt to be sorely puzzled by finding the train timed to reach a certain place before it has, according to the time table, passed the preceding station. Not that the train is travelling so fast that you have overtaken the sun, by any means. The fact is simply that some of the smaller intermediate places adopt the time of some citv lyinor to the east of them ; w^hile a short distance further on, the ocood folks are reijulatincr their clocks by those of a city miles to the west of them. . In the depot at Jersey City I was amused to notic3 no less than six clocks round the walls of the bookinor office, all going, but the hands nevertheless all pointing in different directions, and indicating the time of day at as many different cities, the name of such city being painted on each clock. 114 Baggage and Boots ; or, In consulting American railway time tables, therefore, it is necessary to notice by what time the line at that part is being worked ; as, if by that of a city to the east of you, you may, on arriving at the deput, in good time as you think, find that your train has gone. On lines working by only two times, between which there is not much difference, it is only necessary to add a second minute hand to the station clocks ; as, for instance, between New York and Philadelphia, which are eight minutes apart. From the booking office I passed on to the trains. The carriages are totally different in build and arrange- ment to those on English railways. In external appe£.rance they have some slight resemblance to huge tramcars, though without any seats on top. There is a small platform at each end, and an aisle runs down the centre of each car, so that you can pass on from car to car throuorli the whole lencrth of the train. On account o* their great length, each car is on bogies, to enable it to pass Vvuth ease round a sharp curve. Each car, therefore, rests on at least eight wheels, four at each end, while many have twelve and a few of the drawing- room and sleeping cars as many as sixteen, eight at each end. The interior of the car I entered was very lofty and elegantly decorated. The passengers do not sit opposite to each other as in a tramcar, nor as they do in an English railway carriage ; but all sit on short, cushioned benches on either side of the central aisle, each seat arranged for two passengers, facing the direction the train is travelling in. One corner of each car is partitioned off, as a '^ convenience,'' 5^ O a < Pi < s SmitJCs First Peep at America, 117 a very desirable arrangement when persons are taking a lengthy journey of many hours' duration. The opposite- corner, at the further end, is sometimes also devoted to the same purpose. A third corner is supplied with a stove for heating the car in cold weather, while in the fourth is placed a filter of iced water, wherewitit travellers parched with the heat may quench their thirst. The stuffed backs to the seats are all made to swino: over either way, so that, on the arrival of the train at its destination, they are all reversed, that passengers, on the return journey, may still face the engine. The travelling compares favourably with that in England, both as regards the distances traversed between two stoppages, and the speed ; the first stop being made at Trenton, a distance of 57 miles from Jersey City, and which was run over in one hour and nine minutes, being a speed of 49 J miles per hour. The cars are somewhat wider than an English railway carriage, as, although on most of the lines the gauge is the usual English one of 4 feet 8i inches, the cars overhang the rails more than those on British railroads. The design and build of the engines differ as much as the carriages do from those on English lines. Fixed in front of each locomotive is a contrivance called a " cow- scraper," which is for the purpose of sweeping the track of any cattle, pigs, geese, or anything else in the way that should be cleared off ; and before I returned home I came across the case of two servant girls who had been crossing the line and were cleared off by this locomotive crinoline. The " cow-scraper " is wedge-shaped in construction, so as to pusli the obstacle to either one side 118 Baggage and Boots ; or, or the other. Lying down the centre of it is a stout iron bar, which is to attach it to any train when the locomotive is travelling backwards ; as, in consequence of the '^ cow-scraper," the engine is unable to come close up to its work when in that position. The funnel is very much larger at the top than at the bottom, truly funnel shaped, having the contracted end inverted into the boiler ; though the object in such a design I could not, for certain, discover. In front of the funnel is always fixed an enormous head-light ; the lantern being amply big enough for a child to be shut up in it, in fact, bigger than the large ornamental tea canisters often seen on the shelves of grocers' shops. On the top of the boiler is fixed a big bell, and which, by means of a cord attached, it is the duty of the stoker or bell boy on the engine to toll the whole of the way, in order to warn persons of the approach of the train, and that they will be removed from the track unceremoniously by the '^ cow-scraper " unless they choose to depart of their own free w411, for American lines generally are not fenced in and guarded in the way they are in England. I never saw a notice board on any line there saying ^[ Trespassers will be prosecuted," — but — " Persons trespassing after this notice do so at their own risk." The driver and stoker on an American engine are well cared for, and comfortably housed in from the inclemency of the weather. On the Pennsylvania Rail- road the express locomotives take up water while travelling, on the same principle as on the London and North Western Railway. Smit/i's First Peep at America, 119 Tlie train landed its passengers at tlie main depot in Philadelphia punctually at five minutes to six. From there I took a Chestnut Street car to 8th Street, and walking up two blocks into Arch Street, took up my quarters at the St. Cloud, a very comfortable and well- appointed commercial hotel, with a fixed tariff of two and a-half dollars per day. I had not troubled about my portmanteau on the arrival of the train, I now gave the check to the hotel clerk, who sent for it, together with the baggage of other arrivals, and for which fifty cents apiece was charged. The following morning I visited the principal buildings of this city, at one time the capital of the Hepublic. The first I went to was Independence Hall, a modest looking red brick building in Chestnut Street, w^ith r, wide forecourt paved with flagstones. Although of no architectural pretensions, this building is looked upon by all Americans with feelings of reverence, almost of devotion, for it was here that, on the 4th of July, 1770, the declaration of independence from England was adopted, and publicly proclaimed the same day. The room it was signed in looks the same now as then. The furniture, even the very chairs occupied by the senators, are preserved with the greatest care. A little lower down Chestnut Street stands the Custom House ; while a short distance beyond, up a narrow^ courtway, stands Carpenter's Hall, a very meagre looking building, but immortalised as the meeting place of the first United States Congress that ever assembled. I w^as much struck with the freedom with which 120 Baggage and Boots ; or, marble is used for building purposes in Philadelphia. Not only are many of the banks faced with it, (where not entirely erected of marble or granite^ ; but tlie door- steps, window-sills, thresholds and copings in rows of houses, are of the same material. I followed Cliestnut Street down to the Delaware, where a busy shipping Chestnut Street. (The Regent Street of Philadelphia.) scene presented itself. Then retracing my steps up Chestnut Street as far as the Mint^ I found that no ■^ )-::SmitJis First Peep at America. 121 obstacle wa? placed in the way of the public being shown over it between the hours of 9 a.m. and 12 noon. I entered and was much interested in inspectini^ the various processes of coining. After showing me round, the attendant left me to examine at mv leisure a larsfe <3ollection of the coins of all nations, from the earliest ages dt>Svii to the present date. The amount of gold in circulation in the States is very small indeed ; and from the time I left the Mint until ilir return to Europe, the following autumn, I never received or handled a piece of gold ; nor did I (with one exception only) ever see a gold coin in the possession of amone else. Paper money is used for ev^erything ; and notes are still issued for as low a sum as 25 cents (Is. 0|d.). Near the hotel in Arch Street, is a auiet orravevard, and loukinix throucrh the railinors on one of the tombs I read the names of Benjamin and Deborah Fra: klin, with tb^ date 1790. One afternoon I took a llidge Avenue car, and rode out to the world-renowned Girard College. It is an orphan r^sylum for boys, of whom there are now some eight hundred and seventy on the books. The main building is erected entirely of pure white marble, the roof even beins: formed of fjreat marble slabs. The institution ^vas b^Jiilt, and very largely endowed, by Stephen Girard, a native of France, but who settled in Philadelphia, and carried on the business of a banker, and who died there in 18Si. vr Visitors are admitted to the college and ground by tacketf^which strangers have no difficulty in obtaining, ■ ■■•■> 122 Baggage and Boots ; 07\ as they are si;ipplied gratuitously to the leading hotels^ for the use of their guests. A janitor shows parties over the building, and conducts them at last out on the marble roof, from which, as the college is built on high ground, splendid views are obtained of the city, and also of the surrounding country. 1 -r- GlRARD COLLEGE. One cujious request in the founder's will is, that no clergyman or minister of any religious denomination, should ever be allow^ed within the gates ; the reason being " that while there remained so much diversity of opinion between religious sects, as to v»'hat was orthodox, he thouorht it best that the youthful mind should not be biassed by hearing the partizan views of any ; but left to choose for itself, when it grew to years of discretion." The Bible, however, is not excluded altogether ; and SinitJis First Peep at America. 123 at the close of afternoon school, at four o'clock, visitors can see the boys emerge from their various school buildinors, and march in good order to the chapel, where the Principal reads a portion of Scripture, hymns are sung, and prayer offered. After leaving the college grounds, I wandered into Fairmount Park, which is a pretty place, winding for miles along the banks of the Schuykill, a picturescjuo river, about the size of the Trent at Nottingham ; and which skirts the west side of Philadelphia, about two miles from the Delaware River. The lower end of the park is beautifully laid out as a horticultural garden ; at the southern extremity of which are situated the city waterworks: advantage being taken of a fall in the river, at this point, of about twelve or fifteen feet, to work all their pumping machinery at this station, by means of three enormous turban waterwheels. In the park, there were quite a row of boating- houses, very ornamental in design and workmanship, belon^ino: to various rowinor and sailinc^ clubs. There was also a small steamboat landing near the water- works. The next day I went from here up the river, in a small steamer, worked with one paddle, placed at the stern of the boat, to a little place called Wissakickon at the further end of Fairmount Park, The ])assengers were landed at some tea-gardens sort of place, belonging to an hotel, and which seemed to form the chief attraction of the locality. About half an hour here sufficed, and as it was too hot to enjoy a six mile walk back through the park, however 124 ^<^gg<^g^ ^fi^ Boots ; oVy picturesque the scenery, I returned in a small screw steamer by the same road that I had come. On arrivinor at Belmont, I visited the grounds and buildinfjs of the late Centennial Exhibition. The Horticultural Society's building bore some slight resemblance to the new Palm House in Kew Gardens, only not nearly so good nor so well kept. From the west door of this structure ran a broad wall, bordered on each side by sunken beds, containing a goodly show of flower and leaf bedding plants. The main exhibition buildino: is over one third of a mile in leno:th. The exact lenojth of the nave is 1876 feet, being the same number of feet as the date of the year in which the exhibition was held ; in that respect, copying the plan that was adopted by the promoters of the first great International Exhibition held in Hyde Park in 1851. In some slight degree it resembles the Crystal Palace, at Sydenham ; but it is not nearly so lofty, nor so pretty, having a gable instead of an arched roof. The main, and now the only entrance used, is in the transept ; and immediately before you, on entering, is a very large and ornamental fountain. It is, however, made of iron, painted green. There is also a very large organ at the opposite end of the transept. Despite the thermometer standing at about 90 degrees, a number of young persons were actively engaged amusing them- selves with wheeled skates, on the skating rink, between the organ and the fountain. In spite of the forlorn look of the place,there were a number of vendors of ice and iced drinks On enquiring what there was to see, as I did not pay twenty-five cents to watch persons selling lemonade, if Smitlis First Peep at America. 125 people would but purchase, — I could see that trade being carried on more briskly outside without paying, — I was informed that there were theatrical entertainments each afternoon at two o'clock. As far as the exhibits go, I found nothino- whatever there worth going to see ; so soon took my departure fully convinced that it could only be that, and the skating rink, that kept the place ffoin^: at all. From the E>diibition Buildings, I went to the Zoological Gardens, w^hich adjoin the Park, on the west bank of Schuykill. The collection of animals here is very large, and very complete ; and the general arrangements for their comfort and health reflect orreat ingenuity and skill on those who had the designing and carrying out of the works. The ^' Carnivora '* house is specially worthy of mention. The place is well worth a visit, especially of New Yorkers, when they go to Philadelphia, as it is infinitely superior to the small collection in Central Park, or to any other that they have to show. AVhen dressing that morning, I observed that my. pocket aneroid stood exceedingly low. The sky, how- ever, was so clear and the sun shone so brightly, that I could not credit its reading ; but thought the instrument must have got out of order. Yet such was not the case, for while at the Zoo a violent storm, preceded by a hurricane of wind and dust, came on, detaining me in the monkey house for a longer time than I had ever spent at any one time before with the Darwinian pro- genitors of our species. On the storm somewhat abating, I returned to the city by tram-car. 12C Baggage and Boots ; or, Tlie storm allayed, to a consiJorablo extent, the oppressive heat ; so, in the evening, I went by Darby- road horso cars, to Woodlands cemetery, in order to see the Dextrel Mausoleum, said to be the costliest in America. It is built entirely of white marble, and is surrounded by an ornamental barrier of the same. The cemetery, however, lies so far from the business and hotel quarter of the city, and there is so little else there of interest, that I did not think it repaid the tim_e occir^.ied in going. On Sunday morning I visited Beth-Eden Baptist Church. It is considered a splendid place ; is very handsomely decorated, has stained glass windows (which, however, make the interior very dark) and a profusely emblazoned orcran. The church is built of a ojreenish coloured stone. In the afternoon I went to see the schools in connection with Arch Street Methodist Church. Both the church and schools in the rear, formincr one buildinor are of white marble. The school and class-rooms are all carpeted and supplied with cushioned seats with padded backs. In the infant class- room each child is seated in a separate little armchair with cane bottom, very low to suit little legs. These chairs are arranged on semi-circular tiers, one behind another ; the teacher and the harmoniumist being on the floor, in the centre. There is a large library, placed in a separate room, de- voted exclusively to that purpose. It is conducted on the pigeon-hole system, i,e., a separate place for each book. This plan greatly expedites the exchange of books. By this system it is possible to work the library without any SmitJis First Peep at America, 127 entering of the books lent into a register. In fact, the shelves themselves form the register, as each space is numbered the same as the book, and when a scholar has out a volume his or her library card, containing name and address, is placed in the vacant space until the work is returned. The adjoining church was as sumptuously furnished as the schools, if not more so. The aisles, and all the pews, were carpeted to match ; while the minister's platform was profusely decorated with costly plants and flowers. That morning a stranger from England had preached, but in the evening I had an opportunity of hearing the regular minister, the Rev.O.H. TifFanny, who spoke such good English that I concluded he must be an Irishman. CHAPTER X. The plan of Philadelphia— Mode of numbering; streets and houses — The "Natatorium " — A trip on the Delaware— Academy of Fine Arts— Smith leaves Philadelphia— The Susquehanna River— An American "Runner" — A long railway ride — Smith gets a- ''wrinkle" — Railroad cars cross the Patapsco River on ferry steamer — The train proceeds through the streets of Baltimore — " Coloured " tram cars— Prices of provisions in Baltimore Market —Maryland Institute — The City Hall— View from dome — Fort Henry— A cheap ride — Druid Hill — A" buggie " — Fast driving — Smith proceeds to Washington — First view of the capital and the Capitol— The Grand Depot. T^HE mode of numberinor the houses in Philadelphia is -■- unique and very ingenious. The city is regularly laid out, the streets crossing each other at right angles, those running north and south parallel to the Delaware River, being numbered consecutively, with the exception of 14th Street, which is usually called Broad Street, a name which it w^ell deserves, being 113 feet wide. The streets running at right angles to the Delaware are named, the broadest being Market Street, one '' block" to the north of Chestnut Street, on which are most of the public buildings ; not quite all, however, as where Market and Broad Streets cross each other a large square has been formed, on w^hich the vast '^ Public Building '* — occupied as law courts and public offices—has been erected of white marble. Market Street divides the numbered streets into north and south ; and, in a like manner, the named streets are called east or west^ Stnit/i's First Peep at America. 121> according to whether they are east or west of Broad Street. The numbering: of the houses is also systematically carried out, the low numbers of all streets running east and west commencing at the Delaware River and running westward ; all the odd numbers on the north side and all the even on the south. Thus, the numbers of all the houses in any street between the river and the first street are under 100, between that and 2nd Street between 100 and 200. As soon as that is crossed, the numbering commences at 201, 202, the intervening figures being omitted ; there seldom being a hundred houses between any two streets. The streets, running north and south are arranged on the same plan ; the numbers commencing at Market Street, and skipping all the numbers up to the next hundred each time a cross road is reached. By this simple arrangement a perfect stranger tc the city can find his way to any address with the greatest ease ; and, moreover, as there are about fourteen blocks to the mile, he can easily reckon the di-tance. Thus, if the address is 1,336 North 7th Street, he knows at once it is a house on the left hand side about one mile north of Market Street, half way between the Delaware River and Broad Street, and about a mile and a half from the new Public Buildinors. The summer heat of Philadelphia is sultry and oppressive in the extreme, and I was compelled to invest in some alpaca and cotton print jackets weighing but a few ounces apiece, cloth clothes being simply un- endurable. The discomfort the broiling rays of the sun occasioned me quite took away my inclination for sight-seeing and 130 Baggage and Boots ; or^ made me feel disinclined to do anything, unless, indeed, it were to pass the middle part of the day at least, sporting myself in and out a cold water swimming bath. With that end in view I wended my way to a place in Broad Street called the Natatorium, only, however, to be disappointed From 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. the place was reserved for ladies. Single admission tickets not being issued, three being the smallest number sold, the price for which was a dollar. As I turned disappointed back into the broiling sun, I vowed that, if ever I were to emiorrate from the old country, and settle in Philadelphia, I would erect two swimming baths — one for ladies and the other for gentle- men — that should be open all day long, and where any- one might sport themselves in the liquid element at any time, and at a charge of sixpence or eightpence, as at the finest swimminor baths in London. I felt convinced that the exorbitant charges, and limited hours, in vogu_ at the place I had just quitted, must necessarily restrict many persons from frequently patronising the baths ; and that, in consequence of the great summer heat in American cities, a more liberal policy, both as regarded hours and prices, would so vastly increase the numbers of the bathers and the fre- quency of their visits, that it would be found to be the most profitable to the owners in the end. As I could not go in the water, I determined to at least go on, so taking the tram to South Street, I pro- ceeded by boat a short distance down the Delaware River to the village of Gloucester,on the New Jersey side. Smitlis First Peep at America, 131 The Delaware is a noble river, nearly half a mile in width, and at Gloucester has such a fine sandy shore, that a short sighted person, who could not see the opposite bank, niinfht well imaorine that he was standin^c at the edixe of the ocean on a calm day. From Gloucester, I returned by a railway of only three feet gauge, to West Darby, then crossed by ferry to the city and visited the Academy of Fine Arts in Broad Street. Among ihe paintings at the Academy is one of Windsor Castle ; there was also a model of Westminster Abbey, executed in cork, besides a model of St. Peter's, at Rome. That afternoon I left Philadelphia for Baltimore. The principal objects of interest en route, is where the train crosses the Susquehanna River by a wooden bridge about twelve jr fifteen feet above the water, and nearly a mile in lenojth. On the way, I ofot mto conversation with a commercial traveller (called in America a ^^ runner "), v, ho, on finding that I was a stranger, took great pleasure in pointing out objects of interest that the cars passed within sight of, and from wnoiu I obtained some useful suoforestions as re^jarded travel- ling. " I suppose you sometimes take very long journeys, and are in the train for many hours right off? " I asked. " Well ! I guess I do, 1 am going now to New Orleans ; stopping over at each of the principal cities for about a day ; and then, when I have done my business there, I come straight back to Philadelphia, without any stop-over at all, 1,605 miles." 132 Baggage and Boots ; or^ '' How long does the train take to do that distance ? " ^•' About two and a half days." " Dcn't you get tired of being such a long time in the train?" " No. I'm used to it ; I spend nearly half my life travelling, and can live and sleep as comfortably on the cars as anywhere else." ^^ In this guide book it puts for the prices charged at the different hotels two-and-a-half to four dollars or three to five dollars, a3 the case may be ; I don't quite understand it. I thought you paid the same whatever you had." '' So you do, tlie difference consists in your bedroom, and in nothino: else. If voa must do the srand, and have a bedroom on the first floor, you pay the highest price ; but if you are content with a room on a higher floor, the price is less." ^' Is there no other difference, as well? " " None whatever ; you use the same reception rooms, dine at the same table, and have whatever you like ; whate^ r part of the house your bedroom is situated in, that dees not in the least matter, and, as you always ride up and down in the elevator the waiters in the dining-room do not know which floor you come from. You may be the wealthiest guest in the house, for aught they know, or the poorest ; thpy cannot tell. Of course, when you are travelling with a lady, you may prefer to pay a little for show ; but if you are alone you don't need to go that expense. At a good house, any room, whether on the first floor or on the fifth or sixth, is sure to be clean and comfortable ; and for Smith's First Peep at America, 133 my part I prefer sleeping on the top floor in hot weather because you get the breeze better up there, besides probably having a more extended view than you would if you v/ere paying one or two dollars a night more down below." I took the hint, and frequently profited by it during the remainder of my tour. On nearing Baltimore the train was divid d, and half of it ran bodily on to a large ferry steamer on the Patapsco River, moored end on, to the shore. The steamer then started immediately for the other side, where the ears would be met by another locomotive, and continue their journey to Washington, and the South. The remaining portion of the train then pro- ceeded to the city, the line running, to my astonishment, down the centre of the streets, where little children were so engrossed playing wath dolls, or marbles, or making mud pies in the gutter, that they took not the slightest notice of the train steaming down the road ; and persons crossed the street just in front of the engine as though it were but a tram-car coming along. Of course they travelled very slowly through the city — only about ei rocking chair, and writing table ; the place being largely patronised by congressmen, while the Houses are sitting. The sanitary arrangements were, however, very unpleasant, both to nose and comfort generally. Of course I was most desirous of seeing the Capitol, which is, par excellence, the finest pile of buildings in America — Americans say in the world ; so, after a refreshing wash, I bent my stops in that direction. The principal streets of Washington are asphalted, and the tram-rails are well-laid ; more like a European city, and very different from either New York, Philadelphia, or Baltimore ; especially the former, where the road paving is in many places more like that of an English stable yard, and the tram-rails project a full inch above the road surface. When the site of the present city of Washington was fixed on, at the latter end of last century, as a suitable position for the future capital, it was then a mere village, so that the surveyors were able utterly to disregard the few strac:o'lino; roads that then existed, and at once to devise, and lay out a new plan, on the supposition that the fact of making it the seat of government would naturally lead to a great city growing up there. The position and direction that the future streets were to take was therefore devised by Andrew Ellicott, under the direction of Washington himself. The plan is unique, and is described in Appleton's Guide Book as that of Philadelphia, griddled across the city of Versailles." a 142 Baggage and Boots ; or. The buildings of the Capitol do not form the centre of the city, various causes having led to a far more rapid growth on the Western than on the Eastern side, the latter being quite suburban. The grounds of Capitol Hill, about fifty acres in extent, are well laid out as a public garden. The buildings of the Capitol are 751 feet in length, with a depth varying from 121 to 140 feet. The original building is of j-ellow sandstone, surmounted by an iron dome, 135 feet in diameter, and 307 feet from the base line of the building ; the whole painted white, to harmonise with the two wings of the edifice, which are of more recent erection, and built of white marble. The main front is towards the east, and is adorned with three grand porticoes, of Corinthian columns. Groups of statuary embellish the grand flights of steps, and the grounds in front. On entering, I found myself in the Rotunda, immediately under the dome. Eound the rotunda are eight large pictures, illustrating scenes in American history. At a height of 107 feet from the floor is a series of figures partly surrounding the Rotunda^ that I thought were in bas-relief so vividly did they appear to stand out. But I was informed, to my astonishment, that they were not sculpture work at all; but paintings to represent bas-relief. This work of art is, however, left unfinished, the artist having died while his work was yet in progress. In walking from the Rotunda to the old Hall of Representatives I passed — what ? an old apple woman, who had set up a stall for the sale of very inferior fruit and sweetmeats in that magnificent building. " Well, old lady, this is a free Smitlis First Peep at America. 143 and easy country, for you to be able to rig up that ram- shackle affair in here." The old Hall of Representatives is now used as a Statuary Hall ; each state being allowed to send statues of two of its most eminent men. Further to the South a corridor leads to the present Hall of Representatives; which is 139 feet long, 93 feet wide, and 3() feet high. The ceiHng is of ironwork, with forty- five stained glass panels, on which are painted the arms of the States. A gallery extends entirely round the apartment. Part is devoted to the press reporters, and to diplomatic bodies. The rest is open to strangers. There being such ample accommodation for visitors, no restriction is put on persons coming, nor is a member's card requisite ; but anyone can walk in without let or hindrance, and hear what is going forward. Unfor- tunately, I was disappointed in seeing the house in session, as it had broken up for its vacation somewhat abruptly the day before. The Speaker's desk is of white marble, and the wall behind is decorated with four very fine oil paintings — two landscape scenes, and a full length portrait of Washington, and another of Lafayette. The Senate Chamber (the American upper house), is in the north wing of the edifice, and is not quite so large as the lower chamber. The halls and staircases leading to the Strangers' Gallery here are exceedingly grand, being of coloured marbles. The Supreme Court, a semi-circular building, decorated with columns of Potomac marble, is also situated in the Capitol, between the Senate Chamber and the Rotunda. Before the wings were built it formed the Senate Chamber. 144 Baggage and Boots ; or^ After spending some hours, wandering at leisure through the buildings, I went up to the very top of the dome. From there, I obtained a superb view of the city, the Potomac River, and the surrounding country. The view of the city was particularly interesting, and the traffic in the streets could be well seen ; the air being very clear and free from black smoke ; and the main avenues very broad, and pointing in straight lines to the dome of the Capitol. While gazing at the panorama spread out before me, a gentleman offered the loan of his field glass, at the same time asking if I lived in Washington, or if I were, like himself and wife, a stranger to the place. '' Oh ! I am quite a stranger ; I was never here in my life until to-day." ^' Have you visited Mount Vernon, yet? " " No, where's that ? and what's to be seen there ? "What! have you never heard of Mount Vernon? Then you're not an American, I'm sure." " No, I'm an Englishman." ^' Mount Vernon is about fifteen miles from here, down the river ; and there is a boat leaves every morning at ten o'clock for there, returning in the evening. You must be sure and go there, whatever else you miss ; it is where Washington lived, and is buried." " Oh, if that is all, I shan't trouble to visit ihe place; I am rather pressed for time, and have so much I want to see." " What ! come to the capital, and not visit Mount Vernon, the tomb of Washington? Why! it is the Americans' Mecca." SmitJCs First Peep at America, 145 " That may be, but it is not mine." " Ah, I see. Your chief remembrance of Washington is that he thrashed you Britishers, out and out ; and you think we are rather hard on you, now ju have come over on a visit to our country, to expect you, forthwith, to go and fall down and worship before his shrine. Is that it ? " "Exactly.^ ^^Then, under the circumstances, I guess we must excuse you. But where do you go after leaving Washington ? Will you embrace Chicago in your tour ? " Yes, I expect to be there in about a month." " Well, then, take my card — Mr. Lee, solicitor, State Street — and if you will call on us as soon as you arrive, I will show you how to go about to see the city thoroughly. You know we are the most go-ahead city in the world. Now you will be sure to come, will you not?" In this invitation Mrs. Lee joined, and I thanked them for their kindness, and promised to do so. After a little further conversation, Mr. and Mrs. Lee departed; but it was a full hour before I could tear myself away from the glorious view. Before returnimg to the hotel, I went across to the Botanical Gardens, which face the grounds of the west side of the Capitol. The gardens only comprise a very few acres, and the conservatories are very small and insignificant for a national affair. The place seemed devoid of visitors, and in a few minutes the gardener told me to go, as he wanted to shut up, it being 5 o'clock. As most of the Government Buildings are only open 146 Baggage and Boots ; or, to visitors in the forenoon, or from two to five o'clock, I was unable to see any more that day ; so, after dining, I took a walk down 4th Street, and round the grounds of the U.S. Arsenal, at the junction of the eastern and western branches of the Potomac River. No ordnance manufactured here, the narrow isthmus being are occupied for barracks and for the storage of reserve unmounted cannon and shot. Uniteo States Tre isury Buildings at Washington. The next morning I took the tram along Pennsylvania Avenue, in the opposite direction to which the Capitol is situated, and visited the United States Treasury. It is a massive, three-storied building, with a frontage of 468 feet, and a depth of 264 feet. The building contains about 200 rooms ; there were no large halls, however, or anything of special interest to a stranger, except the ^' cash room " ; the walls of which are empanelled, from top to bottom, with coloured marbles, six different sorts. The fact of seeing banking business going on in this SmitlCs First Peep at America. 147 room reminded me that my funds were rather low, and that it would be as well to replenish them. Before leaving England, I had obtained a circular letter of credit from Messrs. Brown, Shipley & Co., the bankers ; and on turning up "Washington," on the alphabetical list of bankers (printed on the fly-leaf of the letter) with whom they correspond, I found the name of Riggs & Co. I therefore enquired for their establishment, and was informed that I would find it across the road, at the corner of the next block. Opposite the Treasury, I saw *^ Eiggs' House," over the entrance to a large establishment that I at first took to be an hotel. As, however, I could not find any other building where I was directed to that at all looked like a banking establishment, I concluded that Riggs' House must undoubtedly be the place, and that I had at last found, in America, a bank more resembling the palatial edifices of Lombard Street and Threadneedle Street than I had as yet seen. So entering, and walking up to the office counter, I said, " I wish for ten pounds, English, on that letter of credit, if you please." The clerk looked at me, in a perplexed way, as though he did not understand, and I repeated my request. " I do not understand you. What is this paper?" " It is a letter of credit, on Brown, Shipley & Co., of London, and I want ten pounds on it. You are their agents, are you not ? " " I never heard of them : I guess I do not understand you." ^' Well, your name is down on this printed list. This is Riggs' Bank, is it not ? " 148 Baggage and Boots ; or, " No ; this is not a bank, at all. This is Riggs' House Hotel. You will find Riggs' bank at the opposite corner of the next block.'* '^ I've been to the corner, and I can't find any bank there. There is only a quiet place, painted yellow, with a door in the middle, and a window each side. That, surely, can't be it. It looks like a private house." *^ I guess it is, though, and one of the oldest and safest banks in the city. You go in, you'll find it all right." Accordingly, I went out much amused. " What queer folks these Americans are ! Such grand hotels, and such paltry looking banks. They reverse our English order of things in nearly every way." I got my ten pounds, receiving, however, only four dollars eighty cents to the sovereign. On asking if it was correct, the bank clerk said — " I guess so. How much did you expect to get ?" '' In New York I got 4-88 ; and in Philadelphia 4-87." " We can't give that here. When was it you got that?" '^ Oh, two or three weeks ago." " The rate of discount was exceptionally high just then. It has come down again now." Pursuing my way along Pennsylvania Avenue, I now had Lafayette Square on my right. It is the finest park in the city, and tastefully laid out with trees and shrubs and winding paths. On the opposite side of the road, and standing back, with a broad carriage sweep in front, is the Executive Mansion, so well known as the White House, the official residence of the President Si SmitJCs First Peep at America, 149 during his term of office. I had heard EngUsh tourists speak of visiting the White House, and certainly thought I should much like to see the state apartments, &c., but did J lot know whether it was open to the public when ^he President was at home, if he were so now, and n 3ther it was necessary to obtain a visitor's order first^ as the public visiting Windsor Castle have to do ; and if so, to whom must I apply for the necessary permit. I was a great mind to put a bold face on the matter^ walk up to the front door, and enquire there : but had -::^rf ----i^ ^j^^ ^ ■SgE - _i.Z* ' ^^~^^^ M fe^-- Ml ■ 5=^ *^' •:.■■» 1^ ^s^"^' -. ■_j~ -rpUNUVlE^'-' •P -JO— ^ --' ^^ ^^^ ■^^^■^Bj^^ The Official Residence of the President. hardly sufficient courage to do so. After spending a long time deliberating with myself, if I should do so or Dot, I at last summoned up my courage, walked along the carriage drive and under the massive portico, supported by eight columns, to the entrance. " Is there any admission here ? " I asked. " Certainly ; walk this way into the parlour," replied the hall-porter as he led me into the east room, and, after asking me to take a seat, left me and returned to the hall. I found myself in a sumptuously furnished room, 150 Baggage and Boots ; or^ 1 m f ' T eighty feet long by forty wide, and very lofty. The carpet, as well as the sofas and chairs, were as soft as down. The mantel-shelves were surmounted by large pier glasses, while from the ceiling were suspended several massive chandeliers, that appeared a complete mass of gas globes and glass prisms. I sat there for a minute or two, wondering what the next move was to be, and if any of the other apartments were open to visitors. One or two ladies and their children were alternately resting on the settees, or walking about the room, and I thought I could not do better than to follow their example. The grand parlour was lit with three lofty windows at each end, hung with rich curtains. Those at the further end overlooked the gardens and grounds, which consist of about 79 acres in all, extending right down to the river's edge. Beyond, on a piece of ground projecting into the river, stands an ugly square tower ; the com- mencement of what was to have been a colossal monu- ment, 600 feet high, to Washington. After spending 230,000 dollars in rearing it to its present height of 174 feet, the funds gave out, and, like many other national monuments in America that have been conceived on too big a scale for the liberality of the public pocket, it has remained for years in an unfinished condition. Beyond the monument, a fine view is obtained from the parlour windows of the wooden bridge, nearly a mile in length, by which the Washington and Alexandra Kail Ftoad crosses the Potomac River. Presently I heard a voice, saying, " Walk this way, ladies and gentlemen." So, following the attendant, the party were conducted into three rooms, very much SmitlCs First Peep at America, 151 smaller than the grand parlour, and called the " Blue, Red, and Green " rooms, respectively. These apart- ments take their names from the colour of the wall papers, carpets, curtains and upholstery with which each is furnished. The attendant pointed out where the Presi- dent and his lady stand to receive the guests at a le\:ei'^ &c. The company were then conducted back to the entrance hall, and took their departure after signing their names in the visitors' book. , Just to the west of the White House is another vast pile of buildings, which, together with the White House and the United States Treasury Buildings, form, as it were, three sides of a square. In the new edifice which is for the State, War, and Navy Departments, there is a splendid stone staircase with massive bronze balustrades, and surmounted by an elegant skylight of coloured glass. The southern portion of the biiilding, which is already finished, is now being occupied by the Depart- ment for State Affairs. The library is a very ornamental room, with a gallery round, and is two stories in height. I next visited the Cocoran Art Gallery, which faces 152 B<^ig^g^ ^Ji^ Boots ; or, the new buildings just described. It was founded by the banker of that name, who richly endowed it, and, at his death, left it a legacy to the people. It contains a good collection of oil paintings and statuary, some of the pieces being beautifully executed. After returning to the hotel to dine, I again sallied out and visited the Smithsonian Institute, founded by a fellow-countryman of mine, a James Smithson. It somewhat resembles the British Museum on a small The *• Smithsonian Institute.' scale, and consists of stuffed birds, animals, and reptiles, birds' eggs, specimens of minerals, &c., and a glass case of live reptiles. The specimen which interested me most was the great meteorite mass which fell at Tuscon, in the State of Arizona, and which weighs no less than 1,400 lbs. The city of Washington is situated in what is called the District of Columbia, a tract of land about ten miles square, cut out of the State of Maryland, and which SmitlCs First Peep at America. 153 forms a tiny State for which Congress itself is the legislative body. This was done as it was considered undesirable that the municipal affairs of the seat of Government should be under the administration of any one State. In the evenincr I called at the Post Office to see if there were any letters for nio from England. One was handed to me, and as the initial as well as the surname were correct, I never doubted but that the letter was for me. On opening it, however, I found it was from a young lady whom I had never heard of, complaining bitterly to her young man of his neglect of her, in that he should have sailed to America and left her behind, and beg^ino: to know if he had forsaken her altofxether. '*• Oh ! " thought I, ^^ here's a go ; this is too good a joke to be lost." So, writing across the back of the envelope '' Opened in error by J. Smith, of London," I handed it back to the Post Office clerk ; not, however, until I had made a careful note of the name and address of the writer. As it had commenced to rain, I returned to my hotel and spent the rest of the evening writing a long epistle of consolation to the unknown lady, deeply grieving with her in her troubles and disappointments, and adding that, should the original J. Smith never return, I would in the autumn, and should be happy to make her acquaintance. The next morning I was up in good time, as there were still a great many places I had not visited, and I was anxious to push on with my tour. I first visited the Patent Office, which is built of marble, freestone, and granite, in the Doric style, and occupies two entire L 154 Baggage and Boots ; o?% blocks between 7th and 9th and F and G Streets. Tli-e upper story of the building is called the Model Room, and consists of four large galleries, forming a quadrangle of over a quarter of a mile round, and filled with cases containinor models of mechanical contrivances that have been patented. Among the more recent I noticed that the electrical inventions and appliances of Boll, Edison, and others were very conspicuous. Leaving the Patent Office, I crossed F Street to the General Post Office, which is a massive erection of white marble, occupying an entire block. An attendant showed me throuo-h the Dead Letter Office, where I was much interested with the routine that letters sent there underoro. I wondered whether the clerks there might not in a few days be conning over the letter I had opened and then disowned ^ that was waiting at the City Post Office, a few blocks off, for the heartless J. Smith. In answer to a question, I was informed that when the '^ i^ddressee " on a letter coming from abroad cannot be found it is returned, unopened, to the country it came from. On some shelves in the Dead Letter Office they have some snakes preserved in bottles which someone tried to send alive in perforated tin cans to Europe through the post. One was a rattlesnake of considerable size. They were detected and stopped in New York, and forwarded to Washington. There they were unpacked under proper precaution, killed and preserved. There was also there % human skull, which had been carefully cleaned and ^^feced under a glass shade. It had been sent in a sealed ^p package to a doctor in Philadelphia. However, the postage was not paid, or insufficiently paid, and there Sj/iit/is First Peep at America, 155 were five dollars more to pay on delivery. Tlie doctor, wondering what was in the package, yet suspecting it was some hoax, refused to take it in ; and so it had come to the Dead Letter Office. On leaving the Post Office department, I retraced my steps into Pennsylvania Avenue, and took the tram for about two miles, to the United States Navy Yard, which is situated on the eastern branch of the Potomac River, about a mile south-east from the Capitol. At a short distance to the right from the entrance, I first visited a small but interesting Military Museum. Passing on from there to the various workshops, I was much interested in the machinery in motion, manufacturing ordnance, and also marine engines, &c. From the Navy Yard, I returned to the hotel, and after directing that my " baggage " should be forwarded by '^ Adams's Express,*' to Richmond ; went down to the steamboat landing, and left at 6 o'clock in the " George Leary," a large flat-bottomed steamer, of 8 JO tons burden, with saloon and state rooms built on a floor above the main deck, and propelled by huge paddle- wheels, worked by a single-beam engine, in the usual American style. The first stop was at Alexandria, seven miles down the river ; and from there, on looking back towards the city, the white buildings of the Capitol, conspicuously situated above every other object, on the top of Capitol Hill, and now gloriously lit up by the rays of the evening sun, looked very beautiful. Eight miles lower down, a passenger pointed out '' Mount Vernon." At 6 a.m., the vessel called at Fort Monroe, Old Point Com- 15t) Baggage and Boots ; or^ fort^ where the James River flows into Chesapeake Bay. Here I went on shore, and spent a quiet Sunday at the Hygeia Hotel, adjoining the landing stage. The place is a narrow isthmus of land, running out into the bay, and connected with the main land by a very narrow causeway about half a mile in length. The isihmus is occupied by a military fort, which, together with the hotel, and a sprinkling of private houses, form the whole of the settlement. It is, however, a favourite resort for the citizens of Baltimore, AVashington, and Richmond ; the chief attractions beino: bathinor boatinor, and fishinof. Although such an out-of-the-way spot, the hotel was supplied throughout with gas ; manufactured on the premises from caroscene oil. The following morning, I proceeded in the steamer " Accomach," to Norfolk, arriving there in about two hours. At Norfolk there is literally nothing worth going to see, the only public building worthy of the name being the Custom House and General Post Office combined, which is built of granite, and situated in Maine Street. Of course Norfolk is important as a port, the principal commodity of shipment being cotton, from the Southern States. At 6 o'clock, the following morning, I left in the " Ariel,'* for Richmond. To my surprise, the first place it went to was Fort Monroe, where I had been the day before. As she waited there for the arrival of the boat from Baltimore, which was not yet in sight, I availed myself of the opportunity to go on shore, and have a bathe in the sea ; w^hich was very enjoyable, the water being beautifully clear, with a sandy bottom. SmitJis First Peep at America. 157 The ^^ Ariel " is the mail steamer on the James lliver, and had on board a post office, where a Government official sorted the letters received on board at different landings, and made up the mail bags for the various villa nres en route. The Uni':ed States mail bags are lonof, narrow sacks, of stout leather ; and judging from the bulk of those received on the ^' Ariel," the good folks in that part of the country seem to be very poor corres- pondents, as the bags appeared in many cases to be quite empty. The landing stages on the James Eiver are of the most primitive description, having no balus- trades ; and the floor planking being of every conceivable length; and the whole in many cases in a most dilapidated condition. Wood was burnt on the " Ariel" for keeping up the furnace fires, and a considerable time was spent at some of the landings in taking on a supply of that fuel. The fact of the " Ariel " being a mail steamer, by no means indicated despatch and rapid transit ; rather the reverse, as it had to call at no less than nineteen landings, whether there were any passengers or not ; so that it was five o'clock before the passengers were, at last, put on shore at Richmond. CHAPTER XII. Richmond, Virginia — The State House and surroundings — Richmond Gem — Black nurse girls — Peanuts — Fried oysters, peanuts, and turpentine soup, disagree with Smith — A night railroad journey in a sleeping car — The Alleghany Mountains — The White Sulphur Springs — Inferior hotel accommodation — Greenbrier River — Kanawha Falls — Indian maize — Lack of capital in West Virginia — The Negro population — The Ohio River — Description of an Ohio River steamer — Pushing barges from behind— Too warm a sleeping beith — Arrival at Cincinnati— Gibson Hcute. A NUMBER of hacks and stages were at the landing stage, at Richmond, awaiting the arrival of the steamer. I entered one of the hotel omnibuses and in it travelled up a long, steep, and very badly paved street to the centre of the city. Richmond is built on several hills. The State-house, of no great architectural beauty or costliness, is surrounded by public grounds, of some eight acres in extent, and occupies a commanding position on the summit of Shockoe Hill. In it, under the dome, is a life-size statue of Washington. A short distance from the State-house, is another statue of Washington, on horseback, executed in bronze, and surmounting a massive pedestal of granite, round which are several figures of other American celebrities, also executed in bronze. In the eveniug I took a short walk round the city, with a fellow passenger I met on the steamer. I was very interested in watching the rolling of railway metals at the Tredegar Iron Works. " To-morrow," SmitJCs First Peep at America. 159 said lie, **' you should visit some of the tobacco factories here, and hear the black people singing as they work. We are yery noted for our tobacco manufacture. You have seen those great placards advertising Richmond Gem^ at every city on this side of the Atlantic, have you not?" ■ *^ Yes, and in England, loo." " Is that so ? Well, to-morrow I \vill take you to one where the manager is well known to me." *^ There is one thing here that strikes me very much, and that is the number of coloured nurse girls, wheeling about the little children in perambulators. Why, all the nursemaids seem to be black girls." *' Yes, I guess they all are. If any lady were to eno-ao-e a white maid, I oruess the others would lead her s\ pretty time of it, whenever they caught her out with the children. They look upon that department of family service as their exclusive prerogative." *^ I have had another experience, lately, that was quite 5iew to me. I never tasted a peanut until yesterday." ''" Never tasted a peanut ! Why, they are a great institution all over the United States. Do you not have them in England ?" '' No, I think not; I never saw one until I arrived in America." ^' Well, I am surprised. How do you like them ?" *' Not at all. In appearance, I thought them un- •2:round fjino-er, but in taste, like an acorn, and only fit to feed pigs on." ^^ Perhaps those you tried were stale ; you should get item fresh cooked." 160 *. Baggage and Boots ; or^ " Yes, so I did ; they were smoking hot ; that is why I bought them. I only ate two or three, however; I thought them so nasty ; yet either they, or the fried oj'sters at breakfast, or that w^retched soup on the steamer to-day — perhaps all three combined — together with this oppressive heat, greater than I have ever experienced before, have quite upset me, and I feel thoroughly sick." " I don't think it can be the pea nuts ; oysters yoii should not eat now ; it is the wrong time of year. As for the soup, I quite agree with you, I thought it seemed flavoured with turpentine, and was obliged to leave it. However, I hope you will be better after a good night's rest.'' The next day, instead of being better, I was much worse ; quite unable to go out, and violently sick so many times that I had to send for a doctor, who wrote a prescription, which the hotel clerk sent out and had made up immediately. The doctor also recommended me to go to the White Sulphur Springs, or other cool mountainous regions, for a few days, which he said would do more than anything else to set me up again. In accordance with the doctor's advice, I lay dowi again until late in the evening, when I left in the hotel 'bus, and went about a quarter of a mile to the depot of the Chesapeake and Ohio Rail Road, which I found a very paltry, tumble-down sort of a shed for the terminus of a railway 421 miles in length without branch lines. Tlie hotel 'bus turned round on the line and drew up close behind the train, so that if the engine in being attached had pushed the cars back even a yard or two, the last one SniitJis First Peep at America, 161 must inevitably have smashed the omnibus. I took a ticket to White Sulphur, and also paid an extra dollar to- have a berth in the sleeping car. On first entering I found it very close ; the black attendant, however, told me it would be better as soon as the train started, which it did at 11 p.m. The train made numerous stoppages* At about 2*30 a.m., when it stopped at Gordonsville- Junction, a few passengers entered who had come from Washington. '^ Oh," thought T, ^* what a pity I did not do so too,, and have cut out the last few days' journeyings where there has been nothing worth visiting, and where I have^ moreover, only made myself ill into the bargain." At Staunton, sixty miles further on, the line joins that of the Baltimore and Ohio Rail Eoad, and from there, the- whole remainder of the route to Huntingdon, on the Ohio Ri^"'^^, a distance of 285 miles, it has no branch or connection with any other railroad, except a few short private lines leading to mines or quarries adjacent ta the railroad. As the train gradually climbed the passes^ of the Alleghany Mountains, I felt a cool breeze coming through the cars, which was exceedingly refreshing, and seemed to put new life into me. The sleeping car contained sixteen berths, eight on each side ; two rows of four each, placed one row above the other. One end of the car was par- titioned off and fitted up as a lavatory, with a good supply of water, towels, combs and brushes, &c., and also with iced water for drinking. I was unable to sleep more than an occasional doze, no doubt partly from the novelty of the situation (it being the first 162 Baggage and Boots ; oj% time I had ever tried a sleeping berth on a train), and partly due to my sickness, so I puslied open the window shutter a little way that I might see out. It was a beautiful moonhVht niorht, but the steam from the locomotive prevented my seeing much of the country. Being the height of summer it began to get light about half-past three, and I felt for my pocket aneroid, which I found registered an elevation of 1,500 feet above Richmond ; after this the line descended some 500 feet to Staunton ; after which it ao-ain commenced to ascend until at Alleghany Station it reached the highest elevation of 1,650 feet. About six o'clock the passengers commenced, one by «ne, to wash and dress ; and, having done so, took their departure to other cars in the train. As each did so, the coloured attendant made up the beds ready for the return journey on the following night ; as the berths in these cars were fixed, and not like some of Pulman's sleeping cars, where the shelving and bedding ■can be entirely packed away somewhere in the roof, in order that the same car may be used by day as well as by night. At Covington the train stopped twenty minutes to allow passengers to breakfast. A number of coloured peojle brought baskets of meat, and fruit pies, &c., to sell to passengers, but I could not f\incy them ; and preferred, mth a few others, to breakfast at the small hotel abutting on the line. At half-past nine, Alleghany, the highest pass, was reached, where we passed the corresponding train in the opposite direction ; and lour miles beyond I was very glad to alight at the White SmiiKs First Peep at America, 163 Sulphur Springs, where I hoped that nearly a week's iH3st would thoroughly restore me to health. The springs are extensively advertised by the proprietors of the hotel accommodation there, and in whose grounds the Sulphur Spring is situated. In a pamj^hlefc written by the resident doctor, it says, the springs, the hotel, and the gay throng of company to be met there, make the place at once " the Saratoga of the South ; the Athens and the Paris of America." A rickety 'bus conveyed me and another guest from the station to the hotel, some two or three hundred yards. On alighting, I said to the driver, " Well, I'm glad you've landed us safely ; this old stage is so shaky that I did not think it would hold together till we got out." " We are to have a new one shortly," he replied. "It has been ordered. '' '^ And none too soon, either." On entering the office, I was surprised to learn that the guests did not sleep in the house, but in small? two-roomed cottasjes, built in rows round the grounds. The pamphlet before alluded to says, " The cottage system has proved a complete success, and greatly con- tributes to the home-like comforts and sociability of the numerous families assembled here." One in "Georgia Row " was appropriated for me. It was a miserably furnished, white- washed room, with brick floor, without any carpet, except a narrow slip by the side of the bed ; and behind, a still smaller room, with only a bed and a chair (intended, I presumed, for your coloured servant, if you kept one), and only divided from your own apart- ment by an unpanelled, w^hite-washed door, without 164 Baggage and Boots ; or^ lock or kev. and that looked as if it had been intended for some cellar. ^' Oh," thought I, " tlm is not very in- viting accommodation for either the invalids or the grand society spoken of in the advertisements." After a wash, I went in search of the spring, ^.vhich gives the name to the locality. It is situated at the lower end of the hotel grounds, and is, of course, free to the guests of the establishment. There is, however, an attendant, always present, who persists in drawing the water for you, when you woukl much sooner do it for yourself. He has a plate, containing a few nickle coins, and a much larger numner of silver ones, which is his stock-in-trade, as the earliest visitor to the springs never finds it empty, and to which he expects you to contribute for his unsolicited services. With regard to the water itself I have nothing to say, except that it is exceedingly disagreeable to the taste, and very purgative in its effects. Among the recent iQiprovements to the property, the pamphlet mentioned a contract with a Baltimore firm for sewerage and drainage. So far as I could discover this still remained to be carried out, as the sanitary arrangements, as I found them, I could not otherwise describe than as disgusting and abominable. Besides all this, there was a wretched table kept, the worst of any hotel I had as yet stayed at. Fruits and ices, even an orange or a banana, were not to be had for love nor money ; nor even salad or green meat of any kind, not even a lettuce or a water-cress, but only things smeared with fat, enough to .make anyone sick, and especially an invalid. Added to all, the place was in a complete upset, with carpenters, SmitJis First Peep at America, 165 painters, and others, doing extensive alterations for tlie season. I begged for a lemon, but could not ' m one ; and on enquiring of some of the coloured >!k about, if there was not some store in. the neighbourhood where they were to be had, was informed that the news-boy, who travelled with the mail train, usually had a basket of oranges, and that was the only way of getting any fruit they knew of. Although the surrounding scenery was very beautiful, the hills and mountains being verdure clad and thickly wooded to their very summit, still I felt that a pro- longed stay, far from recruiting my health, would, with such dietary, soon prove fat.al to me ; so I decided to leave in the mornino:. After passing one night at the ^^ White Sulphur," throughout which an interminable concert was kept up by the croaking of innumerable frogs and toads, in a neighbouring swamp, it was with a feeling of great relief that I again resumed my journey, by the same line of railroad, er route for Cincinnati. The train con- tinued the descent of the magnificent mountain passes ; foUowinor the course of the Greenbrier River for over 150 miles, until from being a small mountain stream, near the White Sulphur, it had grown into a mighty torrent, rushing madly along over crags and boulders, at Hinton, and sixty miles beyond, at Kanawha Falls, gave a final plunge, and then become a navigable river ; flowing peacefully on, under the name of the Kanawha, through Charlestown, until it at last empties itself into the Ohio River, at Point Pleasant. At Kanawha, the train stopped twenty minutes, to allow passengers to 1C6 Baggage and Boots ; or, dine. A very enjoyable meal was served at the hotel adjoining the line at fifty cents per head, the railroad conductor having gone through the cars, some two or three hours before, to enquire of the passengers, and wired on the number they were to provide for. On this railroad journey, the whole of which, from the White Sulphur, lay through the state of West Virginia I passed large crops of Indian maize, which I saw grow- inof for the first time : also a sort of silver ash or birch tree, with a conical shaped flower, all matted together, like a coxcomb flower, and which looked verv effective ; also, of course, Virginia Creeper. Throughout West Virginia there appears to be a great lack of capital. The houses are, almost without exception, built of wood, and are very small, mere hats most of them ; and of the sparse population the blacks appear to be more numerous than the Avhites. Punctuallv at 7 p.m. the train niched Hunfcinnfdon, having been twenty hours in coming through from Richmond, a distance of 421 miles. Here, those passengers whose destinations lay further west (and that included nearly all) went on board the steamer ''Bostona," which was in waiting, and which at once starfce J on its journey down the Ohio. The vessel was like an enormous flat barnre, com- pletely boarded over, and having both boilers and engines, and all the cargo, on deck. Above this was- another deck, supported on pillars (so as to leave the sides of the cargo-deck open); and on this upper deck was placed the saloon and passengers' state-rooms, the pantry, cook's galley, barber's shop, and lavatories. SmitJCs First Peep at America. 107 the steamboat clerk's office, and saloon passengers* accommodation generally. This, again, was all covered in, so that it was possible to walk on a deck still higher ; above which, again, was placed the wheelhouse. The saloon was very long and narrow, extending nearly the whole lenorth of the vessel, and on either side of it were the passengers' state-rooms. Each of these little rooms contained two berths, and at night received a Ohio River steamer. dim secondary light from the lamps in the saloon, shininrr through a fanlight of figured glass over the door. Besides the door leading into the saloon, each state- room had another on the opposite side, the upper iialf of which was glazed to admit the daylight ; but was also provided with a muslin curtain, for privacy's sake. This door opened on to a promenade, about six feet in 168 Baggage and Boots ; or^ width, that passes entirely round the vessel, and is covered in by a verandah for protection from the rays of the sun, and from the charcoal cinders constantly fallinix from the funnels, wood beinn: used as fuel. From the verandah were suspended plants, and flowers <];rowing in pots, which gave a very tasteful and pleasant aspect to the promenade deck. I was heartily glad again to be travelling by water, where, beside being cooler, I could take more exercise, and have a thorouo:h orood wash in the lavatorv, in an unlimited supply of water, the only objection to which was, that it was dreadfully muddy, being thrown up from the river by the paddle-wheel, and not in any way filtered. I was also agreeably surprised to find that the nine dollars, fifteen cents, I had that morning paid at the White Sulphur for my ticket to Cincinnati, not only included a state-room on the steamer, for which I had expected to be charged extra, but also supper on board the steamer, which I had not at all anticipated. This meal was served soon after leaving Huntingdon, after which I went on to the lower deck to have a look at the engines. The steam was generated in four long cylindrical boilers, placed side by side ; and in appearance much like that of a locomotive, only very much longer (about fori:y feet). These were sup- ported, about three feet above the deck, so that you could, if you wished, crawl clean under them, from one side of the vessel to the other. The engines also were totally unlike those on English steamboats. The paddle-wheels were disconnected, and worked entirely independently of each other ; each being SmitJis First Peep at America. 169 driven by a single higli - pressure engine, placed almost horizontally, with a cylinder not unlike that of a locomotive engine (only ver}- much longer, having a stroke of eight feet), and working up to a pressure of 1501bs. to the square inch. As the engines were disconnected from each other, they often worked at slightly different speeds, and being high pressure, and the steam, after being used, discharging into the air like that of a locomotive, the result sounded very peculiar ; the loud puffs, for half a minute or so, being regular, alternately from each engine; then, as one gradually overtook the other, the puff's would become very irregular, until they were emitted from each engine at the same moment like one blast with, of course, double interval of time between each, after which again the snorting would gradually resolve itself into distinct puffs, as the precise moment of escaping from the cylinder differed in each engine. The paddle- wheels are very large, and each engine has a separate driver to attend to it, who sits in a little house built out over the water and igainst the paddle-box, where he can have a good view of what the vessel is approaching. Besides the engines and boilers, the fuel was also strewn about this deck, toofether with the caroro and emigrant passengers. The steamer made several calls in its journey down the river, and passed several other steamers, all paddle. In some of these, however, there was only one paddle, which projected from the stern of the boat, and had no paddle-box but only a splash-board. A few of these were large tug-boats taking barges of coal, timber, or other freight up or down the river. M 170 Baggage and Boots^ &c. The barges, which were usually in fleets of ten or twelve, were lashed, four or five abreast, and the tug, instead of towing them with ropes as with us, pushed them alonnr from behind, like a nurse-ofirl wheelinor a perambulator. I wondered that none of the passengers went on to the top deck. On trying to do so myself I soon dis- covered that it was strewn thick with ashes fallinor from the funnels, which were placed one on either side of the vessel against the paddle-box. I turned into bed early, and soon came to the conclusion that my room must be close to the funnel, or some of the stea* i-pipes, as it was as hot as an oven. This, combined with the unearthly snorting of the high- pressure engines, and the frequent sounding of the steam-whistle, was not at all conducive to sleep in the uninitiated, so I went and asked the clerk to give me a different room, but was peremptorily refused, so had to make the best of it. At nine o'clock the next morning: the steamer arrived at Cincinnati, and there, by the advice of a fellow passenger, who had long lived in that city, I went at once to the Gibson House, a large, well-appointed, and exceedingly comfortable hotel and very centrally situated. Here, with abundance of fresh fruits, vegetables, and ices, combined with a cooler atmosphere, caused by torrents of rain falling, I soon recovered my wonted health, and could again enjoy the strange sights and sounds with which I was surrounded. CHAPTER XIIL Cincinnati — Tyler-Davidson Fountain — The Exposition Buildings- Surface drainage — An American prison — American prisoners — " Durance vile " — Lynch Law — Ill-feeling towards negroes — The largest Sunday School in the world — Bridges over the Ohio at Cincinnati — Waterworks and pumping machinery — Eden Park — Cincinnati Inclined Planes — Zoological Gardens — German population — Beer gardens — Cincinnati hack driver — "Why, man, I don't want to buy your hack *' — Bad water supply — Where ignorance is bliss, 'tis foolish to be wise — Floating swimming bath— Smith proceeds to Louisville — The Louisville Railroad bridge — American railroad conductors — Baggage master — Church sextons — Green corn — How to eat it — New Albany — Cave Hill Cemetery — City Hall — Depot of the Louisville and Great Southern Railroad — Waiting rooms — *'What is the fare ?" — Louisville hack fares — Smith departs from Louisville. THE Gibson House Hotel is in Walnut Street ; and just round the corner in 5 th Street is a sort of public square, a regular rendezvous for the horse-cars to and from all parts of the city, which, on arriving,from whatever quarter, pass round the square (instead of removing the horses to the other end of the car), and then depart again in the direction they can^e from ; reminding me of the advent of a comet into our solar system, its rush round the sun, and its disappearance again into boundless space. In the middle of this square, on an esplanade, 400 feet long, by 60 wide, stands the Tyler-Davidson fountain, in the centre of a basin 40 feet in diameter. It consists of a group of figures cast in bronze, the top one being that of a gigantic female figure, with outstretched arms, through which the water is carried, and pours down in 172 Baggage and Boots ; or, fine spray, from the perforated fingers. Also in 5th Street, on the further side of Wahiut Street, a massive granite edifice is in course of erection, which will, when completed, be occupied by the Post Office, Custom House, and United States Courts. Through the streets of the city runs the world renowned Miami Canal ; a broad, shallow ditch of slimy black mud, devoid of water, that element havinor all run off throuorh the breakage of a viaduct, about twenty-five miles from the city, some short time before, and which had not been repaired, leaving the empty bed of the canal gradually drying in a scorching sun ; a ripe breeder of disease and pestilence to those dwelling along its course. Many of the streets of Cincinnati, too, large and important as the city is, are only surface drained ; at all times a very undesirable arrangement, in any town, especially at such a latitude. In the evening I went to see the shopping, being Saturday night. Many of the streets were lined with barrow-men, and thronged with marketers, buying and selling provisions and merchandise of every descrip- tion. The next morning a gentleman told me that if I would like to visit an American prison, a service was conducted every Sunday morning at 9.30, at the County Court Jail, and that he would give me a note that would gain me admission. This I gladly accepted, as I was anxious to see all I could. The place was conducted very differently to an English prison. For instance, at the close of the service, which lasted about an hour, I found the prisoners sitting and walking about the hall, just where they liked. One immediately took possession of Smith's First Peep at America, 173 the harmonium, which had been used for leadincr the hymnSj and commenced singing some revival hymns, and playing the accompaniment on the instrument very fairly. Others produced packs of cards and commenced playing with them. None of them wore any prison dress ; all being dressed in their own clothes, just as they pleased, and many of them sporting a watch and chain. ."Nor did they seem to stand in much awe of the warders. '^ Where are my shoes?" demanded one of the prisoners. " I don't know," replied the attendant. ^* Then look for them, sharp, and bring them to me at once, or 1^11 know the reason why," stud the prisoner. Prisoners also get up little plays and entertainments, from time to time, which they act for the amusement of one another, as I discovered from the following paragraph, which I happened to light upon some time after in the "Detroit Free Press." It is evidently considered, by the culprits at least, as hard enough punishment to be kept in ^'durance vile," without having it added to by being kept under a stern discipline while there. " House of Correction Notes.^ — Superintendent N — — yesterday received a pardon from the President for H C , who was sentenced from Kansas to four years' imprisonment, C had an excellent prison record, and utilised his spare time in writing essays, which were read at the entertainments given to the convicts." Lynch law is very prevalent in many of the 174 Baggage and Boots ; or^ southern and western states, as will be seen from the prosaic " e very-day occurrence " sort of way, in which the following, taken fro' i the " New York Herald," is related : — "A Negro Lynched. — Guthrie^ Ky,, August 'il. — On Tuesday morning a coloured man, named Green Ellis, assaulted Mrs. Duncan, two miles north of here, with f intent to commit robbery. After beating her severely, and taking 12 dols. that were on her person, he left her for dead. She recovered sufficiently to get home and report tue facts. Ellis was caught here yesterday and had his trial, and was to have been sent to the County Jail to-day. Last night, about ten o'clock, between twenty-five and fifty men rode into town, overpowered the guard, and quietly removed Ellis. He was hanojed not far from the town." The above, astounding as it may appear, is by no means an isolated case. When a person is lynched it is usually a coloured man. In fact, very much bad feelinor is still shown to the ne^ro race, who are sometimes subject to the most wanton outrage, as the following paragraph w^hich appeared on the same day as the one above, will illustrate : — IV^Two^Men Killed. — Atlanta^ Ga.^ August 27. — On Wednesday night, near Cochran, Ga., four young white men disguised themsc'Ve?, went to a negro cabin, broke down the door, and commenced firing into it. The occupant, John Brown, seized his double-barrelled gun, which was loaded with buckshot, and fired both barrels, killing two brothers, named Dykes. The tops of tlieir heads were. blown off. The necrro made his SfnitlCs First Peep at America. 175 escape. The Coroner's jury returned a verdict of justifiable homicide." This time such cowardly assault met with a just retribution ; and this time the law did the negro justice in the verdict of the jury ; but although the law justifies him, he still has to flee, from fear of farther violence from his murderous enemies. That afternoon, I visited, first, a Coloured Sunday School, intended for negro children exclusively ; and subsequently the '* Bethel Mission," facing the public landing — the largest Sunday School in the world, 2,042 being present that afternoon, which number was somewhat below the averao-e. The Ohio, at Cincinnati, is about the width of the Thames at London, and is crossed by two fine bridges. The first reached in comino; down the river is a railroad bridge, carried over between huge iron girders of lattice work. It supports a single line of rail, and on either side has a roadway, just wide enough for an ■ordinary vehicle, and also a narrow footpath, about two feet inw idth. The other is a suspension bridge, very wide and handsome, and besides broad footpaths and roadway, the latter is laid down with a double line of tram rails for the horse-cars to the opposite suburbs of Covington and Newport. On Monday morning, I went to see the vast pumping machinery, situated at the east end of the city, for forcing water, drawn from the river, up to the reservoirs in Eden Park, for the supply of Cincinnati. Here, as at almost all public xind municipal works in the United States^ I found I could go about where I liked among the machinery, 176 Baggage and Boots ; or, without let or hindrance. From here I had a tiring walk and climb, up to the reservoirs ; and afterwards a stroll about the Park. Althouorh the sun, just then, was beating down with terrific heat, it was for all that very muddy under foot, it having rained heavily during the night and that morning. Presently, I espied a tram-car coming along a road in the park with " Tyler Davidson Fountain " on it ; so I jumped in to go to the city, feeling quite ready for my dinner. Presently the car drove into a yard covered with a glazed roof, and I wondered how we were going to continue our journey, the line apparently coming to an end. Besides, we had now come to the verge of a precipitous ridge overlooking the city, the house roofs of which were far below us. The horses, how- ever, knew far better than I did. They drew the car into a sort of cradle where it was fixed bv the wheels being blocked. In a few seconds I heard a gong sound on an electric bell ; and, looking out, saw an engineer pull over a lever, and the whole concern, cradle, horses, car and passengers, just as they were, began rapidly to descend the face of the hill over an inclined railway, at an angle of nearly 40 degrees. As we went down, another cradle and car came up the incline, passing, of course, exactly half-way. On reaching the bottom, the gates in front of the horses were thrown open, and the car resumed its journey through the city. There are three other inclined planes, the city being in a sort of amphitheatre surrounded by a steep semi-circular plateau, on the top of which the suburbs and best private residences are built, and which are difficult of SmitJis First Peep at America, 177 access in any other way. None of the other inclines take up the cars in the way just described^ although one or two of them take up and down ordinary street traffic ; and at a much less rate than a foot passenger, w^ho i& charged five cents, whereas a cart containing a ton or two of coals, with horses and driver, is conveyed for twenty- five cents. The longest and steepesi of these railroads is Price's Incline at the West end of Cincinnati, which is 825 feet long, and has a gradient of 51 inches to the ->fbot. '^' In the afternoon I took the Maine Street car and •:^ Mount Auburn inclined plane out to the Zoological Garden ; a very good collection though not so large as that at Philadelphia. It included the largest crocodile ;;I had ever seen alive, and the most peculiar monkey I had ever met with, having blue cheeks and a red nose, exactly resembling morocco leather, and a coat of . , long fur, which blended all the colours of the rainbow, behind. There was also a capital aviary, and several ^J bear pits containing some very fine specimens. ^^ Cincinnati contains over 100,000 Germans out of a total population of 300,000. These form a complete colony by themselves on the further side of the Miami Canal. Here German is the language spoken, advertise- ments placarding the walls are in German, a German newspaper is published, and, in fact, all the surroundings would make a German feel as though he had been -■suddenly transplanted to the " father land." At the top of each of the inclined planes is an exten- sive Beer-Garden, where Germans of all classes resort oa Sunday afternoons, drinking lager»beer and conversing: 178 Baggage and Boots ; or^ or playinor cards, while their children amuse themselves and playmates about the grounds. The next morning I visited the Emery Arcade to purchase photographs, &c. ; also the Masonic Temple, visitors being admitted to view the decorations at ten o'clock each morning ; also St. Peter's Cathedral, the Jews' Synagogue, St. Paul's Church, and several other very fine buildings ; and afterwards to the depot of the Cincinnati, Hamilton and Drayton Railroad^ as I thought I should like to see if Cincinnati could not show some- thing better in this line than Huntington, Richmond, or even Washington itself. Just as I was leaving, a orentleman drove ud in a hack, and on alio^htinof, asked the driver how much he had to pay. ^^ Three and a half dollars." ^' Three dollars and a half? " repeated the passenger ; ^* Pm sure that^s wTong." ' '' No, it's not. That's what I want." ^^ Three dollars and a half for ridino^ from the other depot ? Why, man, I don't want to buy your hack." ^^ That's what you've got to pay ; I won't put your baggage off my hack till you do." The passenger here beckoned a policeman from across the road and appealed to him. ^^ Where have you come from ? " "The Little Miami Railroad Depot. I guess the fare's not three and a half dollars, for that short distance ? " " I guess not, nor half either ; if you give one and a half dollars, it will be sufficient, and then I shall want faim round at the police-station." SmitJCs First Peep at America, 179 The hackman looked rather disconcerted, lifted down the baggage, and took his fare. The policeman then jumped on the box by his side and they drove off. The drinking water supplied to Cincinnati, as in most southern cities, is exceedingly discoloured and none too good to the taste, although the inhabitants expressed their surprise at me for thinking so ; and said that they had always considered it excellent and particularly pure and wholesome. I could not help comparing th3 statement to the description in Bunyan's ^^ Pilgrim's Progress " of the old man, grovelling with his muck- rake; and also those lines of Gray, '^ Where ignorance is bliss, 'tis folly to be wise." On one occasion I was much disappointed on a ecorching afternoon, after politely accepting w^hat I thought to be a glass of delicious lemonade, to find, on putting it io my lips, that it was but water, and that of a very indifferent kind. ^ On enquiring if there ^vas not a swimming bath in Cincinnati, I was directed to the floating bath near the landing stage. It is, of course, needless to say that the water here was worse than that supplied to the city for drinking purposes, in fact, no better than that supplied for washing purposes on the Ohio steamer. On the followino; afternoon I left Cincinnati for Louisville in the steamer " United States." I went down in the "hotel sta^e " an omnibus that called at various hotels for passengers, and the driver of which charged each passenger half a dollar, for the ride of something under half a mile. This time I was fortunate in securing a much cooler state-room, so that I enjoyed a good 180 Baggage and Boots ; or^ night's rest, and when I awoke the next morning found that the vessel had already arrived at Louisville. Leaving my portmanteau on the boat, they having clieeked the baggage on the same principle as the American railways, I took a walk along some of the main streets and then fixed my quarters at the "Gait House." It rained heavily throughout the morning, but in the afternoon it ceased for a short time and I took a car down to the 14th Street Depot, in order to walk over the magnificent railway bridge that crosses the river at this point and connects the state of Kentucky with that of Indiana. It is an enormous work, nearly j^ mile in length with a single, line of rail, carried sometimes on tho top, and in some parts at the bottom, of deep lattice work girders of wrought iron. On either side of the line is a good wood-planked path for foot passengers. The bridge is carried over at a orreat heio^ht above the water, thouojh I could not see that there was much need for such an arrangement, as the river, just at this part, has a fall of several feet tnd is very shallow, and goes surging along over the recks at a great rate. The traffic on the river has to pass through locks and along a ship canal one and a quarter miles in length to get by. In Louisville, as in Cincinnati, mules are very largely used in the tram-cars. A number of the streets are lined w^ith avenues of trees which cast a pleasant shade on a hot day. On arriving, I was struck with, the number of business advertisements done out in bright letters, fixed to wire gauze or net banners Sviit/i's First Peep at Amsrica. 18 o and stretched across the street. At first, I thought that I had arrived on a grand gala day^ and that the citizens were decorating the streets for a procession. On reading some of them^ however, I soon discovered my mistake. On looking in at the depot of the Louisville and Cincinnati Railroad, I was much amused to see the names of the train conductors chalked up on a blackboard against the departure of their respective trains. They are much more imporhmt personages, anyhow in their own opinion if not in the directors', than a railway guard is in England. They take the passengers' tickets, and the fares of those who have taken no tickets or who get in at a way- side station where there is no bookino; office or ticket agent, and, on some lines, give no receipts either; they ascertain where each passenger is bound for, and when approaching a station call out the name of the place, and if any one wishes to alight pull a cord which rings a bell on the engine as a signal to the driver to pull up. The conductor has nothing to do w^ith passengers' luggage, that department being in the hands of quite a different man called the baggage master, who sits on a Windsor armchair in the doorway of the baggage car, the side entrance to which is usually very largo and closed (^.f> , when it is shut at all) with a sliding door. Another peculiarity I observed in Louisville was that none of the places of worship there had any tablet or notice board to inform the stranger the name and denomination of the church. Every one is supposed to know. Even the name of the church's undertaker 184 ' Baggage and Boots ; or, did not appear, a very unusual thing in America, as, in New York and New England States generally, every church patronises some particular sexton and undertaker, whose names and addresses are painted on the notice l3oard outside, whether the minister's name appears or not. At different hotels, in different parts of the country, and as the summer season advanced, I was constantly finding new things down on the bills of fare that I had never tasted in England. This evening, at dinner, I saw " Green corn" down on the bill of fare amonc]:st the list of vegetables, it having just come into season : so I ordered the waiter to brinfj me some. When it was brought, I found it was young Indian maize, boiled in the ear. I remembered having heard that the usual mode in which Americans eat it was to take it up in their hand, and, while twisting the ear round, holding it at each end with their fingers to gnaw the grains off with their teeth. To me, however, this seemed such a barbarous mode that although I thought it possibh a negro might eat it in that way, still I thought it could not but be considered very vulgar in good society ; and as the Gait House was quite the tip- top hotel, and had a superior '^lass of guests, I did not wish to scandalize the com^^^^ ^y present by making any great hole in my manners. So I determined to leave the corn for a minute, and watch how others did. I looked round the room in vain, however. No one but myself appeared to have ordered green corn. Just as I was feeling in a great dilemma, a gentleman sitting opposite asked me to pass the bill of fare, and in another SmitlCs First Peep at America, 185 second, I rejoiced to hear him say : ^* Waiter, I'll take some green corn." It was brought, and the guest tried to stick his fork into it, and cut the corn off the husk with his knife. I thought, "There, no doubt that's the proper way," so tried to do Hkewise, but soon gave up the attempt, as neither coald I fix the fork in the ear, nor were the corn grains to be removed by scraping them with a knife, they adhering to the husk far too tightly for that. The guest opposite was no more successful, and soon called the waiter. " Waiter, this corn is not done." *^ Is that so ? I'll bring you another ear." The fresh corn was brought ; and the strange guest again appHed his knife and fork, and with the same result. " Waiter, this corn is as bad as the last." This time the waiter had been watchinor the visitor from behind, and making signs to the other black boys, who were on the grin all over the room. He was at a loss, however, how to reply to this last remark ; so, coming round the table, and holding a bill of fare before me, he said out loud — ^* What will you take next, sir? " — and then in a low tone, — *' I wonder where the gentle- man has grown ; he has never seen an ear of corn. Do show him how to eat it." This request took me greatly by surprise, and put me in a greater dilemma than I was before. However, I replied out loud — ^* Certainly not : show him yourself for I can't. I don't know myself. Show us both." The waiters could no longer suppress their amusement and turned their backs in order to hide the broad grin on their coloured features. The foreign gentleman 186 Baggage and Boots ; or^ looked up J and the waiter I had just spoken to dis- appeared in an instant. This little episode had attracted the notice of some of the other guests, and was evidently causing them some little amusement. A gentleman, however, very kindly came across from another table, and after saying : — " I guess you're strangers to our country," explained that it was usual, in that part, after smearing the ear over with butter, and salt and pepper, to one's liking, to hold it at each end by the fingers, and bite the corn off in the way described. The next morninor I took a Main Street car to the extreme west end of the city, some three miles or so, and crossed by ferry steamer, to New Albany. There are some large iron foundries here ; also, at the east end of the Albany, some good private residences. Most of the private houses in Albany are built of wood. Those built of brick are either white-washed or else painted a light chocolate cream colour all over. Some of the gardens contained beautiful oleander trees, in full flower ; also a flowering shrub, called the Rose of Sharon, which is indigenous to Indiana. I returned to Louisville by train, crossing the Ohio by the magnificent bridge before described. The trains pass over very slowly ; the one I was in taking 1\ minutes to cross. In the afternoon, I went by car to Cave Hill Cemetery, quite in the eastern suburbs of Louisville. On arriving, I found that an order for admittance was required. However, after some demur, the gate keeper allowed me to take a walk round. I thought it the most beautiful cemetery I had ever seen. There is scarcely a monu- SmitJCs First Peep at America. 189 ment that is not either of granite or marble, and the variety of designs is really wonderful. The spot, too, is extremely picturesque — rocks and valleys, and a -small lake, and many large and beautiful trees. The footpaths, too, are bordered with a neat kerbing, on either side, of white stone. No flat head stones are allowed, which is a wonderful improvement as regards effect. The main thing that brought me to Louisville, was that it was en route to the world-renowned Mammoth Cave, situated on the Green River, in the south of the Kentucky State. The nearest railway point to the cave is Cave City, on the main line of the Louisville and Great South Railroad. I did not know the times of the trains or fares, so thought it as well to go down to the depot, to enquire, being unaware that, near the hotel, the company had a ticket agency office, at which I could have obtained all the necessary information. The depot was further off than I had expected , fully a mile and a half. On the way, I passed the City Hall, the most pretentious looking building in Louisville. It is of stone, and has a clock tower at one corner, the dials of the clock being illuminated at night. Probably the most costly edifice in the city is the Court-house ; a massive granite structure, on Jefferson Street. On arriving at the railway depot, I could find nobody about, although it was the terminus of a long and important line of rail- way. I knocked loudly at the window of the ticket office, but could obtain no answer. Adjoining the platform were three waiting rooms. The first had up, " Ladies' Waiting Room" ; the second, " Gents' Waiting Room"; 190 Baggage and Boots ; or, wliile over tlie other one it said '' Color'd People's Waiting Room." They were all empty, except the last, in which a black man was sprawling on the table, fast asleep. At any English railway station I could have found out all I wanted for myself, by consulting the time-tables, and lists of fares, in the booking-office. But here there were neither. I searched up and down the platform, and in all the waiting rooms, but could not find a single time-table, of any part of the company's train-service. There were^ indeed, one or two posters, of " Rapid Transit Trains," but these were only the advertisements of more enterprising companies, whose lines were, however, hundreds of miles away. With regard to putting up a list of fares by the side of the booking office window, such an arrangement seems to be unknown on any line in the United StateSj with perhaps the single exception of the Erie Railway. On one occasion before this I had accidentally discovered that I had been overcharged, but having no means of check- ing the ticket agent, had supposed, at the time, the fare charged was correct, and was hundreds of miles away when informed that it was too much. After waiting about some time, a man came down the platform, carrying a signal lamp, and I asked him where the ticket agent was. " If he is not in there, he's gone home to get his sapper." " There's no one there. How soon will he be back ? "^ " About ten o'clock, I guess, the train from Paducah comes in then." "What time did the last train from Paducah come in ?'* SmitJCs First Peep at Afnerica. 191 ^' Ten o'clock last night : there's one train a-day." " How often do they run to Cave City ? " " There are three trains a-day ; but if you want to go there, you can get tickets and every information at the office in Main Street." *' Why, I wish I had known that before ; I've just come from there i and might have saved my time and trouble." The next morning I bought my ticket at the office named, and having settled my hotel account drove to the depot in a hack. Here there was no fear of being imposed upon by the driver. They used to do so to such an extent, especially with strangers, that at last people would stand' it no longer. The City Council took it up, and decreed that the fare from any railroad depot, steamboat landing, or hotel, to any other depot, landing, or hotel, should be half- a-dollar; a rule, the strict enforcement of which has proved a great boon, to strangers especially. I obtained a cheque for my baggage, stepped on the cars, and in a few minutes the train started and I bid good-bye to Louisville. CHAPTER XIV. Cave City — Nine miles by stage — The Mammoth Cave— William, the Guide — The temperature— Saltpetre Pits— Ruins of Consumptive Hospital— "The Theatre" — **ril never marry the man on the face of the earth " — The Star Chamber — Tall man's misery — Stout man's misery — Extent of the Cave — Persons lost in the Cave — The Echo River — The Corkscrew — Out again — No chance for the "Long Route" — Only rattlesnakes — " What our hogs feed on" — American Railroad Signalling — Shunting arranajements — Smith persists in going the wrong way— Bowling Green — Bed without supper — Commemoration Day — Smith asks for a time-table — Result — Off again — Train stops for breakfast — Smith almost left behind — McKenzie— The " Block System " not needed — Cattle on line — Hickman — " Good gracious, it's your boat " — Too late— Yes — No — The Missisippi River— Floating timber — Cairo — Slow Travelling — Taking on Fuel — Illinois harvesting— Burn- ing the straw. CAVE CITY is a small place, of 375 inhabitants, as proved by the last Government census taken. It is 85 miles from Louisville; and after a ride of three hours and a half, I was landed there. The " stage " to convey passengers to the Mammoth Cave, which is nine miles distant from the station, was in waiting. It consisted of a light, small four-wheeled covered cart, drawn by a couple of strong cobs, driven by a negro. It was rain- ing fast, and the first three miles of the road were the worst I had ever travelled, and took an hour to get over. I could only compare it to being driven over the crab-rocks, at some sea-side place, in a bathing machine. However, it was passed at last, and after giving the horses a short rest the drive was resumed. The road for the rest of the way w^as a much better one, and ' SinitJCs First Peep at America. 193 after a ride of about two hours and a half, we reached the lartre hotel, situated near the mouth of the wondrous cavern. In the Mammoth Cave, at no very great distance from the mouth, the galleries divid<3 into two main routes, known as the long and the short respectively, I was desirous to traverse them both, especially the former, as on that route you had to cross in a punt a subterraneous river, sometimes called the Styx, and sometimes the Echo River. Here the roof of the cave descends very close to the water ; in fact, after rainy weather, the water rises quite to the roof, thus obstruct- ing a passage in that direction at all. After passing this point, in taking the long tour, the guide frequently entertains the visitor with a thrilling and most vivid description of all the horrors and dangers they would experience should they on their return find that the waters had, in the mean time, risen, and cut off their retreat. You may then hear a graphic delineation of the lamps burning dim, and at last going out, and of the horrors of a slow death by starvation, in a darkness that might be felt. On the arrival of the " stage," William, the coloured guide, got ready at once, and accompanied me, and two other visitors, to the cave. The mouth of the cave is reached by passing down a wild rocky ravine, just beyond the kitchen garden connected with the hotel. The entrance is gained by clambering down an irregular, funnel-shaped opening, overhung by the luxuriant foHage of the ravine. As soon as I commenced to descend, I exclaimed, " Oh, how cold ! " The guide then Iii4 Baggage and Boots ; or^ called me back a minute, to point out the sharply-defined and flat layer of steaming vapour, where the cold air from the cave struck the warm moist air of the ravine. He then stood me in a position where, when I let my hand hang by my side it was in the cold air, and felt quite chilly ; but when I held it up, it w^as like plunging it into a warm element at once. We then proceeded into the cave, at the mouth of which is a strong gate, securely padlocked ; as the cave is private property, and a fee of two dollars for the short route, and 3 dollars for the long, is charged to each visitor. About half a mile from the entrance, we came to a large subterranean hall, where still remain the vats used durinor the w^ar of 1812, for the extraction of saltpetre for the manufacture of gunpowder. Since then, other places have been found ■where it exists in greater abundance, so that the manu- facture at the cave has long since been discarded. The remains of the stablin e way, and fell with the noise of thunder, leaving a triangular shaped gap about the centre of the curve. The Canadian Fall is about 2,000 feet round, and the mass of water that passes over is three or four times as great as that over the American Fall. Here, in parts, the water as it passes over, assumes a brilliant emerald green colour, which indicates a great depth, experts estimating it at twenty feet in thickness. From the immense cauldron formed by this circular fall, over a third of a mile round, a great cloud of spray rises in wreaths high into the air, like clouds of smoke issuing from the crater of an active volcano; and floats away on the wind, to fall in copious showers a mile or two off. On the rocks, at the very verge of the Horse-shoe Fall, I stayed entranced, until the shades of evening coming on warned me that it was time to return to the hotel. CHAPTER XX. General flow of the Niagara River — The Suspension Bridge — A foolish wager — Prospect Park — Another tragedy — View from the Park — The missing pot of gold — The elevator — The " Shadow of the Rocks "— Under tiie Falls — A Bathe in Niagara River — "You speak such broken English " — View from the Canadian side — Dalrymple's experiences — Cost of a gratuitous ride— A "free view " — Camera-obscura view of the Falls — Indian trophies — Cost of a day's outing — Niagara City — Railroad Suspension Bridge — Water-Mills at Niagara — The Whirlpool Rapids — Cana- dian spelling — "No, I can get rice at home" — Cave of the Winds — Circular rainbows — Bathing at the Foot of the Falls — Evening at Prospect Park — Electric coloured lights — Illumina- tion of the Falls, &c. — Smith removes to Prospect House — Table Rock — Horse-shoe Falls from below — The Burning Spring — View from Great Western Railway — A Yankee's idea of seeing "all round " — Departure. A LTHOUG H the general run of the Great Lakes is ■^ from west to east, that of the Niagara River, which connects Lake Erie with Lake Ontario, is from south to north; while at that portion just above the Falls it is actually flowing from east to west. At the Falls the river turns at ri^jht ano^les to the north. The result of this is that on the American side, you are only able to get a side view of the Falls ; and that in order to get a full front view, it is necessary to cross the river to the Canadian side. This is easily done, as there is a good suspension bridge across the deep chasm through which the Niagara runs for some miles after going over the great Falls. This bridge is very narrow, having a width of roadway just sufficient for one vehicle, and a very narrow footpath on one side only. The ravine is 1,190 284 Baggage and Boots ; or^ feet across from cliff to cliff, and the bridge is 1,268 feet from tower to tower, and the roadway is 190 feet above the water. While it was in course of erection, a foolish man, for a heavy wager, actually dropped from it into the river below. Nearly four seconds elapsed from the time he let go till he disappeared in the w^ater. In a few seconds more he appeared on the surface, terribly bruised. A small boat was taken out to him immediately in which he rowed himself to the shore, and thus won his wager, but was ill in consequence for months after. The river at this point is of great depth, and in accept- ing to undertake such a hazardous feat, the man calcu- lated on being able to dive to a great depth when he entered the water. The Suspension Bridge is certainly a great convenience in giving easy access from one side of the river to the other, and must be specially appreciated at the beginning of winter, when the ice forming prevents the passage of rowing boats across ; and again in the spring when the thaw is breaking it up, so that it is unsafe to walk on it. Th.e most disagreeable part connected with using the bridge is that there is a toll of twenty-five cents to pay, each and every time you walk across, and more if you ride, beside the liability of being searched as soon as you reach the other side by the Custom House officials of the country you are entering, to see if you are bringing any contraband merchandise into the land. On the mainland abutting on the American Fall is a pleasure garden, which in 1872 was purchased by a company, much improved and beautified, and is now called Prospect Park. It is of no great size, about four •< »5 o •< Cm ■< o in O O SmitJCs First Peep at America, 287 acrefi in extent, and is bounded on one side by the rapids above the Falls, on another you look over a precipice, and view the river flowinoj throuofh the fforcre that the Falls have themselves cut in ages past, I entered my name in a book at the entrance gate, and paid the seventy- five cents for a free pass for the season, as I felt I should like to feel free to come and go whenever I liked while I stayed at Niagara ; and that it was much better than paying twenty-five cents admission each time I entered the park. The place \^ prettily laid out with flowers and trees, while a small stream diverted from the river a sihort distance up the rapids runs through the grounds supplying sundry fountains and ponds, and then into the engine-house to drive the machinery for working the elevator, which I will describe presently, and also the dynamo machine for generating the electric light, with which the park and fountains together with the rapids and the edge of the Falls, are illuminated after dark. Prospect Park has already witnessed two or three mournful tragedies. Not so very long ago a young man paid the entrance fee at the gates, and then walking deliberately to the river, took oft' his coat, and plunged into the mighty rushing torrent of the rapids, and in a few seconds was swept over the edge, and dashed to pieces on the rocks below. One corner of Prospect Park is at the very edge of the Falls, and has been rendered perfectly safe by a low brick wall having been built round, so that you can stand there and see the never ceasing falling sheet of water, and be close enough to touch it at the very edge that it falls over, with a walking stick or umbrella 288 B<^gg^g^ ^^id Boots ; or, in perfect security. Standing in the comer, the visitor has to his left, the rapids, coming tumultuously on; while straight before him, stretching from the spot where he stands for 1,100 feet across to Luna Island, this mighty torrent ever plunges headlong 164 feet on to the rocks below, where it again unites with the waters that have come over the Horse-shoe Falls, and flows off at right angles to the American Rapids ; only again to be caught in more rapids a mile and-a-half lower down, and to go surging along through a ravine more or less deep and grand, for seven miles further to Lewistown. On the rocks at the water's edge below the Falls, the Pros- pect Park Company have erected a long corridor-shaped building, with a many-coloured dome at one end. It is reached from above by an inclined railway plane, something like those at Cincinnati, only worked by water power, and the cars running under cover all the way down. The building below is called the " Shadow of the Rocks." Lookinor at it from above I found it almost obscured from view by the clouds of spray from the Falls, which a southerly wind was driving in that direction. The sun was shining brightly, forming a brilliant rainbow that I look d down on. One end of it appeared to rest on the gak aized roof of the " Shadow of the Rocks." That I could see very distinctly, and at once thought that it would be a good opportunity to- recoup myself the expenses of my lengthy tour from the pot of gold proverbially to be found there. It is needless, however, to add that I searched for it in vain ; as, on this particular occasion, it was, for some unaccountable reason, missing. Smithes First Peep at America, ^^^ After gazing at the grand spectacle before me for an hour or more, I thought I would go down to the rocks beneathj where I could now and again see persons crawling about like drowned rats, and view the mighty- cascade from below. So, paying the fees in the office at the head of the inclined plane, I stepped into one of the cars, and was quickly lowered to the bottom of the cliff. The interior of the '^ Shadow of the Rocks" is a corridor about 60 feet long, with dressing rooms on either side, for those who, like myself, wished to scramble over the rocks, and pass behind and under the fall for a little way. At the end of the corridor, under the painted dome is a circular room, surrounded by windows of plain and coloured glass, for viewing the Falls without getting wet. A south-westerly wind was, however, driving the spray so violently against them that little could be seen. I next gave one of the guides ray ticket for a bathing suit, wherewith to go out on to the rocks, and was shown into one of the dressing rooms, and directed to divest myself of every article of my own clothing ; as, despite every precaution, I would be drenched to the skin. I soon re-appeared, attired in a pair of very coarse blue serge pants, a yellow oilskin coat with a hood, and a pair of felt slippers, to prevent the feet from slipping on the wet rocks. Another gentleman emerged at the same moment from another dressing room, and we followed the guide, who was similarly dressed. He took us first to a prominent rock standing out before the falls, for the sake of the view ; which, however, it was impossible to get, by reason of our eyes being instantly blinded by showers of spray every time we ventured to 290 Baggage and Boots ; or, look up. The guide then beckoned us to follow him, and guided us over the rocks, and along a plank foot- path that led behind the sheet of falling water. I kept squeezing the water out of mj eyes with my knuckles. To look up was impossible, to look before me was almost as bad. It was difficult to see where I was stepping. The guide did not speak, but merely made signs, as the roar of the falling torrent rendered it impossible to hear a word. When either of us held back, afraid to proceed further, the guide took us firmly by the hand and drew us on. A narrow plank footpath passed right under the falls for a short distance. Along this the guide took us singly as far as it went, drawing us backwards ; and passing along in the same position himself, in conse- quence of the still heavier splashes of water with which we were now deluged. He then, by signs, bade us look at the falling sheet of water, suspended like a living curtain of whitish green before us. In returning, he pointed out how the sun, shining on the spray, caused rainbows to appear wherever a dark back ground could be obtained. Before we again dressed, he pointed out a spot in the river where it would be quite safe to bathe, as it was surrounded by a railing fixed in the water, to prevent persons being carried away, should they be unable to swim, against the current. Here, however, owing to the great depth of the river further out from the shore, it is not so strong as one would be led to expect, after viewing the rapids from above. Being a very hot day, we gladly availed ourselves of the oppor- tunity of taking a swim. While doing so we got into conversation, and very soon the strange gentleman, Smith's First Peep at America. 291 whose name was Dalrymple, said to me, " You're a foreigner, are you not ? You're certainly not a Yankee, and I guess you're not an American at aU." " Are you sure ? " I replied. ^^ Positive, for you speak such broken English." " If you wish to learn pure French, where would you go to pick it up ? To lower Canada ? " ^^ I guess not. I guess I'd go to Paris." " Very well. If you acknowledge that French people should speak the best French, you certainly should accord the same to England and the English." " Oh, I guess by that that you're an Englishman." From this introduction, an acquaintance sprang up between us, which lasted during our stay at the Falls. When we had again dressed, we crossed in a row-boat to the Canadian side, where we were met, on landing, by several importunate hackmen, who followed us with their buggies up the steep winding road that lead to the top of the cliff ; each trying, by arguments similar to those I had heard on the other side, to induce us to ride. *^ You're only wasting your time, for I am fully determined not to set my foot in a hack, while I am at the Falls," I said. Then turning to Dalrymple I said quietly, ^' I can't make those men out at all. Yesterday a n an, after boring me for ever so long to ride, at last offered to take me about for nothing. I did not believe him, because that would not pay him." " Oh, yes, it would," replied he. " Not but that he would have finely abused you at the end of the ride all the same. I tried it the other day, and in a few yards he drew up at a place with a few shells and trinklets in y 292 Baggage and Boots ; or^ the window and said, 'You must go in here, Sir, they have here some genuine articles of real Indian manu- facture.' I said I did not wish to buy anything of thai sort ; but he was extremely solicitous, and their touter ran to the hack, and assisted with his solicitations to get me in. A hundred yards further on, he drew up again at a shooting gallery, and asked me if I did not wish to try my hand at a shot. He next drew up at a petty fogging place, where he declared they had some Indian curiosities of great value. Admission to view, only 25 cents. From there we crossed the Suspension Bridge, for which I had to pay half a dollar each way. He then drew up again at Dr. Somebody's Museum, which we shall pass directly, and then at another fancy store place. Further on the hackman drove me to see the burning spring, for which there w^as another fifty cents, to pay. It is, however, a great curiosity. But it soon became evident to me, from the great interest the hackman took in inducing me to spend as much money as possible^ that he received a large commission from the proprietors of these various establishments, on the amount of custom he brought. When we returned, however, he was by no means prepared to fulfil his promise of the ride being a gratuitous one, but demanded three dollars ; and was somewhat abusive because I would not pay him more than two, and reminded him of his promise to take me for nothing, so that, altogether, with the money I spent, and the bridge tolls, &c., I thought the ride cost me quite enough." "Indeed, I should think it did." During this conversation, we had reached the top of StnWis First Peep at America. 293 the cliff, where there was a small Custom House, about the size of a garden summer house, and opposite, across the road, stood the *' Clifton House," the grandest hotel at the Falls. Turning to the left, we wandered along the carriage drive, towards the Horse-shoe Falls, stop- ping now and again to admire their beauty, as seen from different points as we approached them, as also that of the American Falls, of which we now had a full front view. Presently we reached the edge of the Horse-shoe Falls, which are grand in the extreme, and sat down on a beam of timber for a while, to watch the ever falling, mighty torrent of water. Soon a touter came up, and tried to induce us to pay a dollar each for a bathing suit, and to view the Falls from below. We, however, declined on this occasion, having just had one wetting. We also declined the offer of a " free view " from the. top of an adjoining house, as we certainlv had a nearer view from where we were sitting. We, however, agreed to see a picture of the Falls, as thrown on the table of a camera obscura. for 25 cents each, and a small fee to the attendant. After spending some time at this spot, we returned by way of the Suspension Bridge, to the American side, Dalryrnple all the while entertaining me with amusing anecdotes of persons who came to the Falls, and spent money there, quicker than they earned it at home. It appears that a great many persons who come to the city of Buffalo on business, take the opportunity, as they are then so near the Falls, of running over by train, and after spending the day at Niagara return to Buffalo again in the evening. W^hen staying at Buffalo a few 294 Baggage a7id Boots ; or, days before, a party of commercials, or ^' runners," as the Americans say, had taken a day's holiday in this manner. In the evening they all returned in high glee, one of them in particular, more merry than sober. When he came in he wr3 loaded with a bow, arrows, shield, tomahawk, scalping-knife, etc., that he had been induced to buy, as being of real Indian manufacture J and very rare and valuable; although, in all probability, they had been made in !N^ew York State, and could be replaced by the gross at any time. Under his arm he carried a bottle of wretchedly poor champagne, which someone at Niagara had induced him to pay eight dollars for, and his friends said he had drunk more than he brought home ; under the influence of which he had probably been induced to purchase this eight-dollar bottle, together with the Indian trophies. At the hotel his friends persuaded him at once to go to bed, which he did. The following morning he knew better what he was about, when on counting over his money, discovered that one way and another, his day's excursion to the Falls had cost him forty-seven dollars, of which one only went for the railway fare. He certainly had in return the so-called Indian-made goods, and his bottle of bad champagne. These, however, only added to his vexation, as they caused him to be the laughing- stock of the guests at the hotel, the other runners plaguing his life out for the " authentic history " of the manufacture and career of his " Indian " bow, shield, and scalping knife. After luncheon Dalrymple and I again met by appoint- ment, and took a walk along the banks of the river, below the Falls to Niagara City, about a mile and a half Smith's First Peep at America. 297 from Niagara Village. Near the latter place are some iarge mills, worked by water power ; the water is taken from the river> near the head of the rapids, and brought by a canal, nearly a mile in length to this spot, where it branches right and left to the various mills, and ultimately pours again into the river, from tunnels bored in the face of the lock, about half way up. One of these mills is fitted with three turban water-wheels, each of 1,000 horse power, working under eighty feet head of water. At Niagara City is another and very much more substantial suspension bridge. It is 800 feet across, and connects Niagara City with the town of Clifton, on the Canadian side. The bridge is a double one, the upper roadway being used by the trains of the Great Western of Canada Eailway, the lower, being for foot and ordinary street traffic. 230 feet below, the Niagara is here aorain seethinor along in a most tumultuous torrent. On both sides of the river are elevators, worked by water power, where for a fee of fifty cents the visitor can descend to the water's ^d^ge. We crossed by the suspension bridge, which is somewhat cheaper than the other one, as the fee of 25 cents franks one back again, any time the same day, without further payment. We then followed the course of the rapids, intending to walk to the whirlpool, about a mile below, and just above which the river contracts to a width of only 220 feet, where, surging through the rocks, it sweeps completely round a small circular bay on the left, forming a sort of whirl- pool, and then turns sharply to the right. It is stated that any floating substance caught in this whirlpool will frequently revolve about the centre of it for weeks 298 Baggage and Boots ; or, together. We did not reach the spot so easily as we expected, as when we were nearly there, we found the road turned sharply to the left, inland, and we were faced by a field, on the fences of which was painted, ^' Take head not to trespas,^'^ " Notice : — Not too cross the fences." " Trespassers will be deli with according to law," &c. We were so frightened by these alarming threats, and still more astounding spelling, that we actually followed the road for about ii quarter of a mile round this field, until it led to a spot where it was possible to descend to the w^ater's edge, and where a house had been erected, and a fee of fifty cents each demanded for so doino:. On our way back to the hotel that evening I asked my companion if he considered himself a Yankee. " No, I guess not, I live in Atlantic City, New Jersey State," was the answer I received. *^ Are the folks there as cute as those here ? " " I guess we're not far behind. Why, the other day my mother had a little boy to dinner from just across the road. The child is only four years old, but at the same time was 'cute enough to let us know that when he came we had a visitor in the house, and should provide accordingly. My mother, considering how juvenile our guest was had not troubled herself to prepare anything extra, which seemed rather to annoy Master Charlie, for when he had finished his meat, and she asked him if he would like some rice, he instantly replied, " No, I can get that at home." One afternoon we went together to the dressing-rooms on Goat Island, at the top of Biddle's Stairs, and having put on the usual coarse serge pants and shirt. Cltk op winds— NUGARA- Smitlis First Peep at America. 301 and oilskin coat, descended the wooden spiral staircase, to a led^e of rock about forty feet above the river. Followin<^ the path, we came to a place known as the Cave of Winds, and which is exactly under the place where that portion of the American Fall which is cut off by Luna Isle from the main body comes shooting down from an overhanging ledge of rock above. The guide takes the visitor right under this portion of the Fall and out on the other side, returning in front of the Fall, over the crreat masses of fallen rock, through which the water is rushing like mountain torrents, to join the main river. The amount of air carried down with the falling water is so great as almost to take away the breath of those who attempt to pass behind the liquid curtain, hence the name by which the spot is known. Before coming down we had declared that we would not require a guide, as we would find our way by ourselves. The attendant, however, knew better, and as we were turning back, afraid to proceed further, in consequence of the path contracting to a ledge, only a few inches wide, and in parts covered with the eddies formed by the backwater of the Falls, we found the guide was close behind us. He now passed to the front and drew us with a firm hand, one at a time, past the point we feared to pass, pointing out where we could place our feet on firm spots which we could not see, being covered with the boiling eddies. We both felt a sense of relief when we emerged on the other side, and the guide conducted us to the front, and from rock to rock, crossing in soma places by light foot-bridges with a handrail, that had 302 Baggage and Boots ; or, been erected for the accommodation of visitors. It was about four o'clock in the afternoon — I had purposely chosen that hour, as I had learnt that on a sunshiny afternoon rainbows, forming complete circles, were to be seen here in the clouds of spray, and that from three to five o'clock was the most likely time to see this pheno- menon. I was rewarded on this occasion by seeing many such, some appearing so close as almost to touch my feet. Presently the guide pointed to a squarish-shaped pool among the rocks. I could see nothing in particular only a rapid torrent of water rushing through and over a wooden barrier at the further end : so I shook my head to indicate I did not understand. The guide then shouted in my ear, " Your bath, sir." Dalrymple and I thereupon threw aside our oilskin capes and hoods, and dived in, and soon fixed ourselves in firm positions, where we enjoyed for the next five minutes a rush of water over our shoulders, and down our backs. There is no danger, as should the bathers be swept away by the torrent they would be stopped by the wooden barrier erected by the guides. The evening we spent among the company congregated at Prospect Park, watching the beautiful effect caused by throwing various coloured lights upon the Rapids and Falls. Far less grand, but if anything more beauti- ful, was the result of similar coloured lights (placed out of sight behind some rock work) thrown on to three fountains cf very fine spray, situated in the centre of the park itself, and reflecting in turn all the colours of the rainbow. The following day I removed from the American to SmitKs First Peep at America, 303 the Canadian side for a brief sojourn. I fixed my quarters at a small hotel called Prospect House. It is well named, as it commands a magnificent view of both Falls, which I could actually see as I lay propped up in bed. - The roadway from this hotel to the edge of the Horseshoe Falls goes by the name of the Table Rock. It received that name in consequence of the cliff, at this point, overhanging its base very considerably, like a table-flap. Of late years, however, this overhanging ledge has broken away, piece by piece, and fallen into the river, and has now entirely disappeared. Near the hotel is another spiral staircase, leading to a ledge at the base of the cliff, and passing to the edge of the Fall. A notice at the fancy stall opposite an- nounced, " Suits and Guides to pass under the Fall, One Dollar." I went ; as, although I had heard from others that it was nothing after those on the other side, I was determined to see for myself. I had, however, been correctly informed, as, although I had dressed in the orthodox oilskin cape and serge pants, that made me look like a monster Colorado beetle, I found, in this case it was quite unnecessary, as I was unable to pass under the Fall, like on the American side, and therefore need not get wet at all. In fact, there were several persons there who had not changed their clothes at all, and who, instead of paying a dollar, and feeing the guide, had only paid twenty-five cents for the use of the stairs. After havinor chancred the oilskin suit for mv own clothes aorain. I followed the course of the river for about a mile and a half, and across some small 304 Baggage and Boots ; or, islands in the rapids, connecfced by light bridges, in order to visit the Burning Spring, with whic^ I wus very pleased. It is situated close to the river, just at the head of the rapids, and is a natural spring, the waters of which are highly charged with sulphur, hydrogen, and magnesia ; and when touched with a lighted taper, a bluish-coloured flame is instantly kindled, and plays over the surface, burning as though methylated spirit had been poured on the water. To- heighten the effect a small house has been built over the spot, so as to exhibit the phenomenon in a darkened room. The ffases come bubblino: throuofh the water, and are liberated on the surface. The attendant has a conical- shaped receiver (the shape of a sugarloaf, only much larger) standing about four feet high. This is open at the lower end, the other being closed, and having a half inch tube inserted. This he places over the bubbling water, and in a few minutes it gets filled with gas, which issues from the tube at the top, and when ignited, produces a flame about two feet long, which continues to burn for about twentv minutes after the receiver has been removed from the water, tho flame gradually dying down, until it, at last, goes out. The Great Western Railway of Canada passes close to the Niagara River, just at the Horseshoe Falls, and, being at a high elevation at this point, commands a splendid view. The depot is about a mile off ; but the Company have erected a platform at this point, and every passenger train that passes during the day-time stays here five minutes in order to allow the travellers a view of these majestic, world-renowned Falls. Smitlis First Peep at America* 305 I had been six days at the Falls ; and although I could have well enjoyed six weeks, felt that it >vas time I continued my tour ; so, that afternoon, I packed up baggage and took my departure. While waiting at the depot for the train, I entered into conversation with a young New-Englander, who was out for a fortnight's holiday. Having nothing much in common to talk about, our conversation naturally was about the Falls, which the Yankee assured me he had seen from every point, as well as exploring the whole surrounding neighbourhood thoroughly. ** Have you ever been here before ? " I asked. " No, it is my first visit." '* I suppose, then, you have made a pretty long stay, as you say you have seen all that is to be seen." " No, not very long. I arrived in Rochester last night, and slept there. This morning I got up early, and saw all round Rochester, and then came on here. I have been round, and seen all I want to here ; and now I am off to Buffalo." As Rochester is a city of near 100,000 inhabitants, seventy-seven miles from the Falls, and containing much to interest the visitor, I was at a loss to conceive how any one could see both thoroitghly, and then pro- ceed to Buffalo, all in one day ; which is, however, a fair example of American touring. As the train had arrived I was unable to continue the conversation ; and soon obtained my last view of Niagara from the rail- road cars, as they bore me away. 306 Baggage and Boots ; or. CHAPTER XXI. Author's Note — Crossing the Boundary Line — Custom-house Officials — Smith argues for Free Trade — Rouse's Point — Plattsburg — Port Kent — Birmingham Falls — Au Sable Chasm — Remarkable Optical Illusion — Lake Champlain — Fort Ticonderoga — Lake St. George — Rogers' Rock — Smith's Ticket diminishes in length — Glen Falls — When will we reach Saratoga ?--•" Srratoga I Saratoga ! ! " — Phila Street — Early Suppers— -Saratoga Hotels — The "United States" Hotel— The Grand Union Hotel— Great Picture, "The Union of the Nations" — Prospect Park — Mineral Springs — An Indian Camp — The Geyser and Champion Springs— The Doctor's services anticipated — Saratoga Lake — Fireworks and Illumina- tions — "Free" Springs — Smith proceeds to Albany — New State Capitol — City Hall — Baggage — An Ameiican's experience in England — Checks no "charm" against loss — The Hudson River — Hudson City — Catskill Mountains — West Point — Traffic V^tween Albany and New York — Description of the new Steamer, the " Albany" — Arrival in New York. 'PHE next three weeks after leaving the falls I spent -*- visiting places of interest in Canada. I will not, on the present occasion, however, tire you with a description of my rambles in the large provinces jf Ontario and Quebec, but will resume my narrative at that point where, near the head of Lake Champlain, I again crossed the boundary line and re-entered the United States. It was a hot summer's morning, towards the end of August. I was seated in a train on the Grand Trunk Railway, that had left Montreal some two hours before, en route for New York. I noticed a small knot of men standing on the track, some distance ahead. The engine-driver slackened the speed of the train as ho neared them ; and, as it passed, they clambered SmitJCs First Peep at America, 307 '^ aboard,'* and the train resumed its usual speed, without having stopped. " Halloo ! What's up ? " said I, to a passenger sitting by my side, with whom I had been having some conversation. " Those men are some of the United States Customs officers," was the reply. " I guess we've just crossed the boundary." " Well," said I, " they're sharp enough after the revenue, to board the train in this way, and not even wait till it arrives at a station. Is the United States Government L rd up for money ? " " I guess not ; only we do not mean to have the trade of the country injured by the competition of Canadian and Enorlish manufactures." "Whether that would be the result is questionable. It is, hov/ever, certain that where a foreign commodity can be placed in the American market, despite an ex- orbitant tariff, however small a proportion the quantity imported may bear to the whole consumption of the country, the American consumer pays the American manufacturer an extra profit, equal in amount to the import tax, and that from this great burden laid upon a large class of its subjects, the Government reap no benefit whatever." " Oh, I guess you're a Britisher. With a large class of Englishmen ' free trade ' is a passion — almost a religion. We look at the matter from quite a different standpoint." The conversation w^as here interrupted by two of the Customs officers coming into the car in which we were riding. 308 Baggage and Boots ; or, "Whose is this?" said one of them, at the same time taking a small satchel from the netting ; while his com- panion commenced similar proceedings on the other side of the carriage. " Mine/' said I. " What have you in it ? " " Only a brush and comb, a guide-book, and some maps." " Let me see, please," replied the officer. I opened the bag, and the veracity of the assertion was proved to the satisfaction of the Government official, who then passed on to others, in the same way. In a few minutes more the train stopped at Rouse's Point, where the whole of the trunks and portmanteaus were turned out of the baggage van, and all that did not bear the Government mark as having been exa- mined in Montreal, before the train started, (by the officers there employed for that purpose by the United States Government), had now to be opened by the owners and the contents examined before they could be allowed to proceed further. This occupied about twenty minutes, when the train resumed its journey, and thirty-two miles further on arrived at Plattsburg. Here the traveller journeying south has the choice of proceeding either by train, or by boat on Lake Ghamplain, his ticket being good for either, as both are worked by the Delaware and Hudson Canal Company. I continued in the train for another thirteen miles, to Port Kent, where I broke my journey, or " laid over," as the Americans call it, in order to visit the Au Sable TWW An f3AT»T-II! Pttahxt. SmitJCs First Peep at America, 311 Chasm. At the depot a *^ stage" was in waiting to convey passengers to Lake View House, an hotel near the upper end of the ravine. Close to the hotel grounds is a fine cascade, known as the Birmingham Falls, where the water plunges about sixty feet, from a ledge of rock into a deep and precipitous ravine, and thus forms the commencement of the Au Sable Chasm. This remarkable natural wonder is formed by the egress of the Au Sable River from the northern end of the Adirondack Mountains, in New York, on its way into Lake Champlain. The river has carved a channel in the Potsdam sandstone formation, in some places reaching a depth of two hundred feet, leaving precipices of every shape towering above the dark water. At one place the river is compressed to a breadth of only ten feet. The waters dash madly through their confined channel, and are precipitated over falls, cascades, and rapids, the first fall being twenty and the second sixty feet high. The length of the chasm proper is nearly two miles, and its sides and top are fringed with cedars, which cast a sombre shadow over it, and add to its mysterious grandeur. It is private property, and there is a fee of fifty cents charged to each visitor. This includes pass- ing through the lower end in a boat. The sides at this portion of the chasm rise sheer out of the water to a great height. Here there is a very pecuhar phenomenon, the river having the appearance of flowing in the oppo- site direction to what it is doing in reahty. This is caused by the unusual angle at which the strata of the precipitous cliffs dip into the water. People say that 312 Baggage arid Boots ; or, seeing is believing ; and we are so used to believing our eyesight that it is difficult to convince ourselves that a thing is not as we appear to see it. Yet such is the case here, the strata of the rock being not quite level, although very nearly so, and declining slightly in the direction of the current of the stream, creates the illusory appearance of the river either flowing up-hill, or else in the opposite direction to its real course ; the water at this part being sixty feet deep, and so placed as to prevent the error being readily perceived. Leaving Lake View House the next morning, I returned by the "stage" to Port Kent, and from there proceeded down Lake Chaniplain in the steamer " Vermont." The vessel made several calls, the most important place being Burlington, on the eastern shore of the lake. At half-past eleven a capital dinner was served at a dollar per head ; and soon after twelve we arrived at Fort Ticonderoga, beyond which place the steamers do not go, as, although the lake continues for another twenty miles, it becomes narrow and shallow, and the navigation is difficult. Fort Ticonderoga was first built by the French, in 1756. The English captured it from them in 1759, and then enlarged and greatly strengthened the two fortifications at an outlay of nearly two million pounds. After the French ceded Canada to them in 1763, this fort was allowed to fall into partial decay, and was one of the first places captured by the Americans in the War of Independence, which commenced in 1776. The following year it was re-captured by the English ; but at the close of the war the fort was dismantled, and from SmitVs First Peep at America. 313 that time the works have been suffered to fall into ruin and decay. They are situated on the summit of a small hill, a mile or two to the north of the steamboat landing. At Fort Ticonderoga, persons travelling south have to resume their journey by train. Most of the tourist pasengers, as well as myself, had tickets that permitted them to take a short branch line — four miles — to a place called Baldwin, at the head of Lake George, in order to enable them to visit that most charming and pic- turesque of American inland sheets of water. The steamer " Horicon " was in waiting, and, as soon as the passengers and their " baggage " had been transferred from the train, at once started. " Horicon " is the old Indian name for Lake George. On the right is Rogers' Rock, a steep promontory about 400 feet high, down which the Indians, to their great bewilderment, sup- posed the bold ranger, Major Rogers, to have slid when they pursued him to the brink of the cliff. Lake George is thirty-three miles in length and very narrow — in some places more resembling a river than a lake. The shores are well wooded, and with the exception of Rogers' Rock, slope in gentle undulations to the water's edge. There are many hotels and gentlemen's re- sidences along the shore ; and little islets dotted about in the lake, especially towards the southern end, among which small steam launches may be seen plying hither and thither. In about three hours the steamer arrived at Caldwell, at the southern end of the lake ; and here I was glad enough to part with a large and somewhat noisy touring party, numbering about seventy, who had come on board the Lake Ghamplain steamer that X 314 Baggage and Boots ; or^ morning at Burlington, and who had heen travelling over the same route as I had. Here, however, they scam- pered off to the Fort William Henry Hotel, yelling and shouting to their friends, who had already arrived in another detachment, while most of the other passengers resumed their journey hy coaches to Glen Falls, a dis- tance of nine miles from Caldwell. jgjL'--?Tnr::-:.r» ^g;. f^^ ^.-».'^!5^^. Fort William Henry Hotel, Lake George. At each stage of the journey some railway conductor, steamboat clerk, stage guard, or other official detached a coupon from my pass ; and the ticket, which was nearly half a yard long when I bought it in Montreal, to carry me through to New York, was now reduced to about half that lenofth. At Glen Falls the Hudson River leaps over a cataract Smith's First Peep at America. 315 some fifty feet high. The place is of peculiar interest as the scene of some of the most thrilling incidents iu Cooper's romance, " The Last of the Mohicans." From Glen Falls I proceeded six miles by a branch line, and then, at Fort Edward, changed into a train on the main line, and continued my journey southwards for another sixteen miles to Saratoga. Saratoga is noted for its mineral springs, of which there are as many as twenty-eight. The surrounding country is flat and uninteresting, and the springs alone could have been the first attraction. Now, however, the grandeur of its hotels and the gaiety of the company annually attract tens of thousands that are already in good health and have not the slightest expectation of the mineral waters having any effect on them, unless it is to make them sick and bilious. Saratoga is, in fact, the American belle's elysium, who, if she is not already possessed of a sweetheart, never expects to come away without an engaged ring on her finger. ** Oh dear ! How much further is it to Saratoga? " asked one and another of such young ladies of the train conductor, each time he passed through the car we were riding in. Presently, on leaving Gransevoort, the conductor, as is the custom in America, opened the door of the car to announce the name of the next stopping place. Aifcer saying in his ordinary voice, ^' The next depot is — " he made a pause, and altering his voice to the lowest pitch he could produce, shouted through his nose, ^' Saratoga I " and immediately disappeared, slamming the door after him. At the same instant^ the door at 316 Baggage and Boots ; or^ the other end of the car opened, and a breaksman, in a voice as hiorh and squeaky as any female could produce, repeated, " Saratoga next depot." The train arrived shortly before seven, and instead of going to one of the very grand hotels, I fixed my quarters at a very comfortable boarding-house on Ph ila Street, that I had been recommended to by a lady and gentleman I had met on a St. Lawrence steamer a fortnight before. Phila Street almost consists of boarding-houses. I was well satisfied with the one I went to, the accommodation being more homely than at the large hotels,to which I did not at all object ; and the expense less than half, which was a very satisfactory aspect of the arrangements. I was ravenously hungry, for I had been travelling the whole of the day, and had nothing whatever to eat since the half-past eleven dinner on board the Lake Champlain steamer. The first thing I did, therefore, was to request the landlady to get me a good supper, whicl; meal I partook of all by myself, as Americans in private life do not, as a rule, have late suppers like their English cousins, but take their last meal, which they call supper, about six o'clock. During the evening I made the acquaintance of some of the other visitors ; and the following morning I went with two others to explore the neighbourhood. Facing Phila Street is the United States Hotel, an immense edifice containing 1,000 rooms, and accommo- dation for about twice that number of guests. Adjoining it is another, equally as large, called the Grand Union, built by the late A. J. Stewart, the w^ealthy merchant of New York, We entered and took a walk round, as the SmitJis First Peep at America, 317 Yankees look upon hotels almost as public property, and walk in and out as freely as Englishmen do a railway station, no man forbiddinoj them. The drawing-room is most sumptuously furnished, the dining-room will accommodate about 500 guests at a time, and considering the number of persons about, I was quite unable to see what there was in an hotel conducted on the American plan, by which to detect and prevent outsiders sitting down and having a sumptuous dinner fit for an alderman, and afterwards walking out again without paying. The Grand Union Hotel forms three sides of a square round the hotel grounds, which after dark are illuminated by the electric light. At the further end is a very fine ball-room, and large placards in the hotel entrance and outside announced that there would be a grand " hop " there thi . evening, commencing at eight o'clock. At one end of the ball-room was hunor an immense picture, the largest I remembered ever having seen. It is entitled the ^^ Union of the Nations," and was painted to Mr. Stewart's . ' 3r at a cost of 60,000 dollars ; and is a symbolical picture intended to represent the " March of Liberty " as exempHfied in the American nation. A coloured attendant stays there whenever the room is open to see that no damage is done to it, and he will, for a fee of half-a-dollar or so, explain in a very lucid and eloquent manner the meaning of the various emblems therein repre- sented. * Opposite the Grand Union is another very large hotel, cari(3d the Congress Hall ; and there are several others, some of which, although not so large, are if any- 318 Baggage and Boots ; or^ thing still more aristocratic ; so that at no place in the United States can the visitor see American hotel life to such perfection as at Saratoga. On the Broadway, ft. the corner next Congress Hall, is the entrance to Prospect Park, a small pleasure ground in the shape of a horseshoe, round the base of a low hill, and con- taining two mineral springs. We paid the fee (ten cents each), and entered, and tried the waters of the springs. In every pint of the Congress spring waters there is 75 grains ofmineral matter, and 49 cubic inches of carbonic acid eras. In the incjredients of the other spring more iron is found. After strolling about the park for a short time we quitted it, and next paid a visit to another mineral spring, only 200 yards away, on the other side of the Broadway. A short distance from Prospect Park, on the outskirts of the village, is the Indian Encampment, which is very much like a gipsy encampment ; and where those that care for such things, can disport themselves with swings, round- abouts, shooting galleries, and purchase all manner of things in the basket, fan, toy and general small ware way. The Indians come every summer, and camp here in tents during the visiting season ; and their quarter has much the appearance of an English country fair. From the Indian camp we took a walk to the Geyser spring, about a mile and a half from the village. The waters of this spring issue through a pipe from a ck ^d chamber, and the pressure is so great as to form a fountain, the water spouting several feet into the air. A house has been built over this spring ; and in it some men were at work, filling grosses of bottles by Smithes First Peep at America, 319 machinery with the waters, and packing it in cases for carriage to New York and other cities. Near by is the Champion spring, with a bottling establishment in connection. Here also the waters spout through a pipe with a quarter inch nozzle to a 1 sight of thirty-five feet or so into the air ; and it is said, will shoot a hundred by unscrewing the nozzle fron* che pipe through which the water rises. The carbonic acid gas generated in the well below is so powerful as to create a pressure of forty-two pounds to the square inch, thus causing it to shoot to such a height into the air. At both these springs the water is so highly charged with carbonic acid gas, that it foams like soda water when drawn from a faucet. At dinner, the landlady, who was presiding at the head of the table, said, " Well gentlemen, have you tried any of the springs yet?" " Any ?" I replied, " yes, a lot. Did we not ?" I con- tinued, addressing the two persons who had accompanied me. At this there was a general laugh ; and a chorus of voices said, " Then you three are in for it ; you'll want the doctor soon ; we wonder you feel able to come to dinner at all, after that." " How so ?" I asked ; whereupon the landlady ex- plained that some of the springs were so very powerful, and had such very opposite effects, that it was very un- desirable to drink from several springs in one day ; the orthodox way being to try one, or at the most two, one day ; and then try one or two others the next ; and so on. 320 Baggage and Boots ; or^ . " Well, for my own part, I feel no ill effects 1 1 yet, though after what you have said, it will be as well to avoid taking any more to-day and to find some other amusement for this afternoon." Afler dinner, in accordance with this sentiment, we same three hired a buggy, and drove to Saratoga Lake, four miles out, where we amused ourselves for a couple of hours tacking about in a small sailing yacht. The Lake is a pretty sheet of water, eight miles long by about two wide ; and two or three times a day a steam launch makes a trip to the other end and back with excursionists. After having returned to *' supper," we again wended our way to Prospect Park, where we found the admission was now fifty cents, in consequence of there being a grand display of fireworks that evening. There were present a large company of visitors, many of the ladies being attired in evening dress, without either hat or bonnet. During the display an ornamental pond in the centre of the park was illuminated with Chinese lanterns, which had a very pretty effect, their reflection in the water making them appear a double row. The next day we took a different route, and visited some of the other springs. This time, however, we did not try so many, as, although we had not had to send for a doctor in the night, we had not felt altogether comfortable. Most of the springs are supposed to be free ; however, wherever there is no fixed charge you are sure to find a collection-plate in charge of some lad or girl, and as they look for at least a nickle (2Jd.), it SmWis First Peep at America, 321 comes no cheaper than having bottled soda-water at your own home. Immediately after tea (or the six o'clock supper) I went off to the depot, and left Saratoga for Albany, arriving at the latter place in something under two hours. From the depot I went direct to the Delevant House Hotel, and feeling very tired, retired at once to bed. Albany is the capital of the New York State, and I was anxious to see the principal public buildings, and as much of the city as I could in the time at my disposal, which, indeed, was exceedingly limited, as 1 had made an engagement with an English tourist I had met, to accompany him to New York the following day by the steamer which leaves Albany at half-past eight every morning. Under these circumstances I was up by times and out quite early. By far the largest, handsomest, and most costly building in Albany is the New State Capitol. It is of granite, and is said to be the largest and grandest building in America next to the Federal Capitol at Washington, though I remembered the citizens of Chicago told me the same with regard to their new Court House. I was too early for the regular hours of admitting the public, but, by a little persuasion, induced the door-keeper to let me in. The senate chamber is upstairs, and is a very richly adorned apartment, and contains two massive columns of red-pohshed granite. The next most important building in Albany is the City Hall, which is built of white marble, and has a rich Ionic portico in front. o22 i^^gg(^g^ (^^id Boots ; or. After returning to the hotel and settling my account, I hurried oft to the steamer, where I met my friend, and we both at once adjourned to the dining saloon to take breakfast. Fortunately, I had no further luggage than a small hand-bag, which I carried in my hand, as, when leaving Saratoga, I checked my baggage right through to New York, to prevent the bother and expense of shifting it about to and from the hotel in Albany for one night only. I held the tally-check for my portmanteau, and admitted to an American fellow-passenger that in that respect their system had advantages over the English plan, though I did not neglect to add that it was no absolute protection against persons losing their baggage all the same, as I had met with those who had. ^' Oh but," said the American, ^*it must be more satisfactory to have a check given you when you hand your baggage over to the care of the railway company. I have been to England, and T know that the first railroad journey I took — it was from Liverpool to London — I was in a great way because they would not give me a check for it. I went to Lime Street Dep6t, I think you call it." " No, we don't, we call it station, we never speak of railway depots for passengers, only for goods and coals; but I beg your pardon, interrupting you, pray proceed." " Well, Lime Street ; that is right is it not? " "Yes." " And I bought a ticket for London, and the railway porter, instead of attaching a check, pasted on a paper label, and was wheeling oflP my trunk when 1 stopped him for the check. He did not understand me, and SmitlCs First Peep at America, 323 said so ; and when I explained, he said they did not give checks. I insisted they could not have my luggage without they gave me a check or receipt. He said I could have neither unless I sent it by freight train." "Lu£r£:a£:e train." ^* I guess that was the expression he used. I did not want to do that, and yet I thought that I was most certainly going to be robbed of my baggage. So I watched where he put it, which was in a small baggage compartment in the middle of a passenger car. I then got into the compartment next to it, and at every depot the train stopped at by the way I put my head out of the carriaofe window to watch that no one stole ray trunk." " Oh ! there was no occasion for that, it was quite safe." " So I found, afterwards. Yet, in all rny railway journeys over there I always felt uneasy about my baggage, and wished I could have a check." " We never think of such a thing ; and for my own part, I have never lost anything yet." ^^ And if you had, and the railway company disputed it, what proof have you to show, when they do not give checks ? " " And here, where they do, and anything is lost, what proof have you of the value of your property ? You might declare it to be a large trunk, contain two hundred dollars' worth of property. If the company disputed it, and said you only handed in a small worthless valise, what proof have you to offer to the contrary ? Nay, more ; some dishonest employe, or other person, might 324 Baggage and Boots ; or, be able to exchange your check for one of their own ; stamped for some intermediate town, and when you arrived at your destination, you might find some small, worn out old satchel, stuffed with rags, for you." '' That is not very Hkely." " Perhaps not ; only as far as safety is concerned, 1 do not see that one system is better than the other." From Albany to Hudson, a distance of twenty-three miles, the river is very shallow ; and the navigation is difficult in consequence. The scenery about here, also is somewhat flat and uninteresting. Below Hudson city, the river becomes deeper, and the surrounding country more picturesque. Four miles lower down, the steamer calls at Catskill; from whence * ^stages" convey passengers twelve miles, to Mountain House Hotel, in the far-famed Catskill Mountains. As you descend the river, the scenery on either side becomes increasingly grand ; especially for a few miles both above and below West Point, at which place there is a very large Military School ; and again, near New York, where for twenty miles the western bank consists of almost precipitous chffs named the Palisades. The traffic, during the summer months, between New York and Albany is very great ; there being two night boats, and one day boat, each way, daily. These steamers are very fine ; the one I travelled by was named the ** Albany." It was splendidly fitted and furnished throughout. The dining room was on the main deck, and had large glazed windows all round. The whole of the upper saloon was handsomely carpeted, and supplied with Thb Palisades on thb Hudson Biyeb. SmitlCs First Peep at America. 327 luxurious easy chairs, settees, &c.; all covered in Utreclit velvet, to match, and supplied with antimacassars, &c. The panelling round the engine space, and paddle boxes, and staircases, instead of being of some plain wood, grained and varnished, was inlaid with real cherry, mapls, and other variegated woods, richly polished. Several good oil paintings were also hung about the Saloon. I could not help noticing a very selfish trait in the Yankee character. On first coming on board, they would place a water-proof or satchel in an easy chair, and consider that they had thereby reserved it for the whole way, and although they might not want to use it for the hour to- gether, would be quite cross if they saw another passenger make use of it. The steamer arrived ni New York about six o'clock ; and mv friend and I went at once to the hotel at which I had left some of my luggage, nearly three months before. I presented the check they had then given me, and now had it placed in the room allotted to me. I also gave them the check I had received at Saratoga, in order that they might send for my other portmanteau, from the steamboat wharf. 328 Baggage and Boots ; or, CHAPTER XXI I. CoDey Island — Manhattan Beach Railway and Hotel — Clams — Nominate your poison — A short Railroad — Brighton Beach and Pier — The Five Points House of Industry — Routes from New York to Boston — Hell-Gate — The steamers ".Bristol" and "Providence" — Fall River— Martha's Vineyard — Cottage City— Nantucket. ANE of the most popular resorts of New Yorkers, for ^ picnics, &c., is Coney Island. It is about ten miles from New York, and is an extensive sandy beach, about four miles long, just outside the Bay of New York, and on the south shore of Long Island, of which it in reality forms a part, being only divided from it by some salt marshes. The easternmost end of Coney Island is called Manhattan Beach, and the central part Brighton Beach ; while the name Coney Island is now usually confined to the western portion, which is not so much visited as the other parts. There are several ways of reaching Coney Island from New York, and the one Mr. Brown and I took was by ferry, from No. 1 pier, East River to Bay Eidge, about three miles down New York Bay, and thence by train. The gauge of the Manhattan Beach Railway is only three feet, and the cars have transverse seats, running right across, and arranged for the passengers all to face the way they are travelling. There are no doors, the sides of the cars being quite open ; and supplied with curtains SmWis First Peep at America, 329 of tent canvas, to be stretched across and buttoned down in case of wind and rain. The cars overhang the rails very much ; as, although the gauge is so narrow, each seat accommodates as many passengers as in an English Railway carriage. A ride of some twenty-five minutes in the train landed us at a good depot, adjoining the Manhattan Beach Hotel, a large pavilion sort of place, with accommodation for dining fifl^en hundred guests at a time, either indoors or outside under the deep verandah. ^ ^^ Come, before we go any further, let's provide some stay for the inner man," said my friend. ^' With all my heart," I replied ; " let us take a seat at this table. See, here is a bill of fare. What shall we have?'' " Clam Chowder, Clams fried, Clams baked, Clams stewed, Clam fritters, &c. Well, this place is clammy enough. What are clams ? " asked my companion, after readinor the bill of fare. '^ I don't know ; something in the fish line, I believe." ^* Hard shell crabs, soft shell crabs, lobsters, Bluefisli, Striped Bass, Baked Halibut, and wine sauce, &c. Well, this place is fishy enough ; what will you have ? " continued my friend. " Oh ! I'd sooner have a steak, or something of that kind. Is there any down on the bill? " *^ YeS; and the prices too, * Porterhouse steak, seventy- five cents to three dollars.' " " What ! three dollars for a steak, when the finest sirloin of beef can be had in the market at twenty-five cents a pound?" Y 330 B^ggcig^ and Boots ; or. At this moment a waiter came up, and asked what he couid bring us. " Why, certainly not a Porterhouse steak," I replied. " What are clams ? " asked my friend. The waiter looked astonished, but I at once explained our ignorance of American dishes, by telling him that we were Englishmen. " So am I ; '* replied the waiter, " or rather was, for I have been nationalized now. Clams are a shell fish, something like oysters, and are a very great institution in America. Shall I bring you some ? " ^' Yes, you may as well,'* *^ How will you have them ? Raw, or in a soup, or boiled, fried, baked, or frittered ? " , While we were practically discussing the quality of boiled clams, we were unexpectedly joined by the American, who, the previous day, had been discussing the " baggage check " system with me. '' Well, gentlemen, what do you think of Coney Island?" " WeVe seen precious little of it, as yet." "Ah, prudently fortifying yourselves first for the exploration, I see. Well, I am glad to meet you again, under such auspicious circumstances. Come, gentlemen, nominate your poison." " What ever do you mean ? " " Don't you understand that expression ? Then I will put it into the English form, and say, ' What will you have to drink ? '" After we had satisfied our hunger, we all three took a walk along the promenade by the sea, in front of the SmitJCs First Peep at America. 331 Oriental Hotel. The bearTi consists of a very fine silvery- sand, on which little children were playing, and building fortifications and moats, with little wooden spades and pails ; while the broad ocean, then very calm, rippled gently before them. A few sailing boats plying up and down, with one or two steamers passing in the distance, completed a scene very familiar to any who frequent our own most visited watering-places. After resting ourselves on the promenade benches, and breathinor in the sea-breezes, while watchinor the scene before us, our American companion suggested that we should wend our way westward, to Brighton Beach, as that was the most " patronized " part of Coney Island. I suggested we should go by train, to which the others agreed. After retracing our steps about half a mile, we reached the terminus of the Brighton Beach Railway, paid our fare, and entered the cars. After a ride of about a quarter of a mile, the train stopped, and the passengers, myself excepted, got out. " Come along, the train goes no further," said the American. ^* You don't mean lo say we are at Brighton Beach, alreadv ? " I exclaimed. " As near to it as the line goes." " Why ! we've not come five hundred yards." " I guess that is so ; but if you don't get out quick, you'll be taken back again." " Well, then, if that is the total extent of the Briofhton Beach Railway, I'll lay any wager its the shortest line in the world ; and I wonder they can get people to pay five cents each to be carried such a little distance \ and 332 Baggage and Boots ; or^ I don't think they could, in any other country but the United States." On emer*^ing from the depot, we found more large hotels, close to the sea, with dining, drinking, and billiard saloons, &c., together with dressing-rooms, for persons wishing to take a dip in the ocean. The Americans follow the French custom, of ladies and gentlemen bathing together, each of course being dressed in fall bathing costume. From here to Brighton Pier, nearly a mile beyond, the shore presents the appearance of a fair, with round-a-bouts, shooting-galleries, and trumpery exhibitions and entertainments of the cheap- jack or " penny gaff" class. Brighton Beach Pier is a handsome jetty about tho length of the Brighton Beach Railway. It forms a splendid promenade, whatever the weather, as it is very broad, and has a roof throughout its entire I ngth, the sides, of course, being open, except at the end, where it expands into quite a large hall, surrounded by glazed windows, and fitted up with the usual small round marble-topped tables, as there is a buflfet attached. Here visitors love to sit, eating ices, or drinking lager beer, or iced lemonade, and smoking, while they listen to excellent music, discoursed by a good band, in the centre of this '* hall on the sea." Brighton Pier is a sort of double one, having a lower floor or deck, fitted up with twelve hundred dressing rooms, for bathers, ladies and gentle- men, who descend by steps into the water, and, unless they are strong swimmers, bathe near the shore, in a portion enclosed by ropes, to prevent them from being swept away by the tide. SmitKs First Peep at America. 333 In one of the lowest portions of New York — a part corresponding to Seven Dials, London, England, — some benevolent Christian men and women have erected a Refuge for the destitute gutter children of that great city. The building is called the Five Points House of Industry, and is conducted somewhat after the style of Dr. Barnado's Home for Destitute Boys at Stepney Green, London. As soon as ever they are old enough the boys are taught a mechanical trade, or sent out to situations as errand boys, and such like, returning each night to the House of Industry, until they are old enough to earn sufficient to entirely provide for themselves. Those who are taught bootmaking and tailoring make the clothing for the whole of the boys. The girls do the same, on their side, and are trained for domestic service. In the building is a chapel, which, through the munificence of a kind-hearted gentleman, has been provided with an organ. Each Sunday afternoon an hour's service of song is held here, to which the public are admitted. At the suggestion of a gentleman staying at the hotel I availed myself of this opportunity of seeing the place and the children ; so shortly before the appointed hour I wended my way thither. After a pre- liminary voluntary the gentleman who presided at the organ commenced playing " The Church's One Founda- tion," to which tune the children came trooping in two abreast, and took their places in the orchestra, on either side and in front of the organ, all the while singing and marking time with their feet, with the exception of one poor little boy, who hobbled in on crutches, and there- fore could well be excused doing so. With the ex- 334 Baggage and Boots ; or^ ception of two short prayers and Scripture-reading, the whole time was occupied by the children, who sang in parts, and very well. Many of them were without shoes and stockings, that not being considered a necessity for many of the younger boys, who did not have to go out to work. At the conclusion of the service a collection was made on behalf of the school ; and the children then marched from the hall to their supper room, singing, as they filed out in good order, the hymn, " We are Marching Onward." Visitors were invited to inspect the premises, and see the children have their supper, which they do at five o'clock, after which they go to bed. The very young children had theirs by themselves, in a separate room, and were attended to by some of the elder girls. I was much amused to see some two dozen of these tiny mites, mostly under three years of age, and one or two not half that, sitting in little chairs, only a few inches high, round a table about a foot from the ground, eating their supper of bread and milk. Some of them were so young that they could not manage to find how to put the food in their mouths with a spoon, so gave up the attempt ; and when they had satisfied their hunger by clawing the sopped bread out of the basin with their hands, offered to share the re- mainder with the visitors around them. The traffic between New York and Boston, especially during the summer season, is immense ; and the traveller has the choice of some half-dozen different lines to select from. Several are by steamboat, from New York, either to Stonington, Providence, Newport, or Fall River, proceeding the rest of the way by train. In Smith'' s First Peep at America. 335 each of these cases the boat portion of the journey is invariably a night one. The last-named route is the most popular ; the two steamers employed on this line, namely, the *' Bristol " and the '' Providence," in size and luxuriousness probably surpassing all the many splendid steamers that ply on American rivers and bays. On Monday afternoon I left New York in the steamer *' Bristol," of this line. The Company's wharf is on the Hudson River, which, locally, is usually designated the North River. After running down to the southern extremity of the city, the steamer rounded the point at " Hell Gate.*' Battery Park, and proceeded up the East River, passing under the colossal Fulton Suspension Bridge, and by the United States Navy Yard, and BlackwelFs Island ; and after a run of about seven miles, reached the passage through into Long Island Sound, called Hell Gate, on account of the extreme danger attending its navigation, until the last few years. At this point the great strength of the tide, surging along among sunken rocks, was a terror to navigators, and proved the 336 Baggage and Boots ; or, destruction of many a vessel. Of late years, however, the channel has been much improved by the removal of the most dangerous rocks by means of dynamite, this spot having been made the scene of some of the most gigantic attempts at marine blasting the world has ever witnefsed. The "Bristol" passed through at half speed, and soon emerged into the placid waters of Long Island Sound, between the island of that name and the main shore of Connecticut. The " Bristol," and its sister boat, the " Providence," are both of enormous size, each being 373 feet long and 83 feet beam, and 3,000 tons register. In each steamer the grand saloon is about seventeen feet in height, and has a double tier of state rooms, one above the other. It is surrounded by a gallery, by which the upper tier of rooms are reached* They are lighted by gas, steered by steam, and each cost 1,250,000 dols. (£262,250). During the season a good string band accompanies each steamer, and discourses a good selection of music from eisht o'clock till ten. I obtained a comfortable state room, and enjoyed a good night's rest. About five o'clock I awoke, and was conscious that the vessel had arrived at Fall River, as the machinery had stopped, and I could hear a bell ringing, and some one shouting, " The Boston express leaves in twenty minutes." " Oh, does it," thought I ; " then it can go without me ; I'm not going to get up yet, and when I do I mean to have a look round this place first now I am here." I was unable to get much more sleep, however, as every now and again a coloured steward came round knockino: at the doors of those cabins that were stiU S^nitlCs First Peep at America. 337 closed, and announcing to the sluggards who still lay in bed, that they had arrived at Fall River, and that it was time to get up. Fall River is a prosperous city of 45,000 inhabitants; and the great industry is the manufacture of cotton fabrics, some of the mills here being very large. The streets are regularly laid out, and the houses well built, some of the public offices being of granite. The private houses are, many of them, of imposing appearance. The gentlemen's villas are mostly built of wood, and painted — some white, some yellow, and some drab. From here, I proceeded by train fourteen miles to New Bedford, and thence by steamer to the Island of Martha's Vineyard. This is the place where the great camp-meetings of the Baptist and Methodist Connexions are held. Every year 20,000 to 30,000 persons visit the island, specially to attend these meetings. On arriving, the steamer calls first at a jetty, called The Baptists' Landing, and then proceeds to the Methodists* Landing, alias Oak Bluffs or Cottage City. Although I did not belong to either of these worthy bodies, I felt I must land somewhere, so went on shore at the latter place ; and left the pier without meeting with any inter- rogation as to my religious views. I now found myself in the most comical place that ever I was in. Cottage City it might well be called, for there are rows of tiny houses that are but mere summer houses, and appeared to have but two rooms each. The outer one is invariably entered by a doorway in the middle, usually of Gothic shape, with a small casement window on either side. The orthodox furniture for this room is a tiny round table in the centre^ 338 ^(^ggcige and Boots ; or, a smallsofa, two chairs, and one or two rocking chairs. The small room behind is only divided from the one in front by a curtain ; and in some cases the beds appeared to be ranged one above the other on either side like berths ia a ship. These cottages had just the appearance of doll's houses. The roads were asphalted, and after dark were lit by oil lamps, on dwarf wooden posts, only five and a half feet high. In many parts there was no distinction between the carriage way and footpath, it being but one asphalted path, about fifteen feet wide. Many of the cottages had a couple of shrubs, or flowering plants, in large pots, one on either side of the doorway. They mostly stand on grass-plots, but without any divisions between them and the pathway, or their neighbour's plots, w^hich gave them still more the appearance of a collection of doll's houses. The majority of them had no kitchen, or even a fire-place of any sort or kind, so that the families who took lodgings there had to get all their meals out at dining-rooms, oi' which there were several. What astonished me more than perhaps any- thing, was that at some of these little summer-houses, that already appeared to be full of visitors, boards were exhibited, announcing " Rooms for Rent/' The great Methodist Meetings, which take place here every August, are held on a large circular plot of ground, in the centre of which is a big covered erection, but with the sides perfectly open, and fitted with a platform for the speakers, and benches for the audience. I did not see anything of them, as the last had taken place two days before I arrived, and the visitors who had been attracted by them were now leaving daily in swanns. Smitlis First Peep at America* 339 The following day I proceeded to Nantucket, an island thirty miles to the east of Martha's Vineyard. It is flat, and has but few trees, althou^jh when first dis- covered by Europeans, in 1602, it was covered with forest trees. In 1641 it was deeded to a certain Mayhew and Son, by Lord Sterling, and in 1659 sold by them for £30 and two beaver hats to a company of ten proprietors. There were then about seven hundred Indians inhabiting the island. The race is now quite extinct, the last having died in 1822. By degrees the principal industry of the island be- came whale -fishing, and in 1820, the inhabitants possessed a fleet of no less than seventy-two vessels en- gaged in this trade. In 1846, a great fire ravaged the port, destroying an immense amount of property ; from which time the whale-fishery steadily declined, and the prosperity and population of the island with it, the latter from 8,779 in 1850, to 3,201 in 1875. It is now some- what improving, on account of becoming a favourite summer resort. After staying a short time at a comfort- able boarding house there, I returned in the " Island Home," one of the regular steamers plying between Nantucket, Martha's Vineyard, and New Bedford, to a place called Wood's Hole, from whence I proceeded by train to Boston. CHAPTER XXIII. Boston— The Common and Pablic Garden— Common woalth Avenue —The State House -The City Hall— Old South Church— Faneuil Hall — Rowdy-dowdy meetings — Bunker's Hill moaument— Plymouth — Museum at Pilgrim Hall — Precious chips of rock — The Court House — Early legal documents — Six shares in the ** Red Cow" — The veritable rock— Leyden-street and Coles' Hill Burial Ground— Roger Williams and Providence City — Liberty Hill — American national monuments — Return to New York — Punctuality. ON arriving at Boston,! entsred my name at the United States Hotel, a very comfortable establishment, close to two of the principal termini, and then made my way to Washington Street, on which are situated the largest and best retail stores in Boston, one of which I entered as I had a letter of introduction to the proprietor. This gentleman, Mr. Dunlop, welcomed me very cordially, and after giving a few directions to his manager, put on his hat and came out with me. We first visited the " Common,*' a well-shaded park near the centre of the city, forty-eight acres in extent. It has been considered public property for nearly two hundred and fifty years, and by the City Charter is reserved to the people for ever. Adjoining the Common, and only separated from it by Charles Street, is a rectangular park, twenty-two acres in extent, called the Public Garden. It is beauti- fully laid out, and presents one of the most successful attempts at flower gardening to be seen anywhere. In the centre of the Park is a small ornamental lake of SmitKs First Peep at America, 341 four acres, across which is a foot-bridge of pretty design. Several handsome statues adorn the gardens, the finest of which is one of Washington on horse-back, and altogether it is a lovely spot. As the Public Garden and the Common are surrounded on all sides by land thickly GBN8RAL View of Boston. built over, they are an immense boon to the citizens of Boston, and such an one as could not now be obtained except at an enormous cost, on account of the great value land so near the centre of the city has now acquired. Beyond the Public Garden to the west, are the town 342 Baggage and Boots ; or, residences of the most wealthy citizens — the Belgravia of Boston, in fact. The land on which it is built has been reclaimed from the broad and shallow Charles River, which flows along the north side. The houses in this quarter of the city are all very large and hand- some, and are all built either of red brick or else red sandstone. The broadest and handsomest street of them all is called Commonwealth Avenue. Many of the houses were shut up, the families being a^ay from town, so that the neighbourhood had somewhat a deserted and desolate appearance. We next visited the State House, Boston being the capital of the State of Massachusetts. It faces the eastern side of the Common, and is surmounted by a gilded dome, from the summit of which is obtained a splendid view of the city and harbour. In the entrance hall, a recess is glazed off in which is displayed a collection of banners — trophies of wars in which the Republic has engaged. Passing down School Street, Mr. Dunlop pointed out the City Hall, a handsome edifice built of white Concord granite, and then on to Washington Street, where he pointed out an episcopal edifice, called the Old South Church, on the opposite side of the way, and told me that the congregation formerly meeting there had now erected a new and very handsome church a little further out. " That is like it is in London," I remarked, " so few church-going people live in the City (now that rail- ways render it so easy to reside a few miles out, and run to and fro daily), that the City churches are almost SmitlCs First Peep at America. 343 empty. So several of them have been demolished, and land in the City sells for such a fabulous amount, that the sum realized by the sale of the site is sufficient to build a larger and handsomer church in the suburbs, where a congregation can be obtained, and pay for the land required into the bargain. I suppose they mean to do the same with this one." The State Hotjsk. *' Oh dear me, no, nothing of the kind. A proposition of that sort was started some years ago, but there was a great outcry against it, and a subscription was set on foot to preserve it to the public." " Whatever for? Can't they get a bishop to nncon- secrate it for them ? " 344 ^^gg<^g^ ^^^ Boots ; or *' That's just the grievance. You wretched Britishers have stepped in without asking, and done that for them. " They ^ boarded ' their horses there during the War of Independence, and the Christians of this city wish the American people never to forget it. Read what it says on that marble slab over the porch." I read. It was an inscription to the effect that the church was erected in 1729, and desecrated by the British troops in 1776—77. " I think the bishops would draw a distinction between un-consecrating and desecrating. Besides, if the British troops had not done so, I should think some one else has, for look at those turnstiles in the porch, with a collector there, taking a toll of 25 cents off each person that passes in to some show or bazaar that appears to be taking place inside." ^* I guess it has been used for lots of things since. Since the great fire of 1872, the Post Office has had it for some years ; while the magnificent new edifice on Milk Street has been building, and which is only just completed. I do not approve of what your soldiers did, but at the same time, I guess there is now no reason for trying to perpetuate the event." " Come, that's right. I'm glad to hear you say so." As we were walking past Quineey Market, Mr. Dunlop pointed to a red brick building just beyond, and asked me if I knew what it was. " No," I said, " I do not." ^' Have you never heard of Faneuil Hall ? " ^' Oh, yes. It is where you hold your rowdy-dowdy meetings, is it not ? " SmitJCs First Peep at America, 345 **Eowdy-dowdy meetings indeed. That Hall, sir, is the cradle of freedom ; the most interesting buildinoj in the United States, unless it be Independence Hall,' in Philadelphia. It was here that, in 1776, meetings were Faneuil Hall— Boston. held and speeches were made, denying the right of England to tax us without our consent ; and where the first steps were taken towards freeing ourselves from her yoke. It was here also that, in later times, Mr. Garrison lifted up his voice on behalf of another great stride in the cause of freedom, — the abolition of slavery." 2 346 ^^ggctg^ ctnd Boots ; or, " Yes, true enough ; but for all that, the meetinojs have often been very uproarious, and excited fanatics have had their feehngs worked up to such a pitch, that they have gone and wreaked their excitement in acts of wanton destruction of pubhc or private property, if not ofpersonal violence even." ^^ No great reform was ever yet accomplished without the movement was aided, at its commencement, by fanatics." ^* I don't feel so sure of that." " Now I guess we just have time before the sun sets to take a Charlestown car, and visit the monument at Bunker's Hill. You know what that commemorates ?" " Yes, -the battle of Bunker's Hill, fought in 1775. Who erected the monument ? " " I guess the Americans, of course." " Really that's very kind of you, for I always heard we won the battle." " Oh, did you though ! To say the least, it remains a disputed point." *' Then I'm sure I should not have troubled to erect a monument." Bunker's Hill monument i^ an ugly, plain obelisk, very much resembling ^^Cleopatra's Needle," on the Thames Embankment — only, of course, not one block of stone, as that is— and is very much larger, being 221 feet high, and standing on a base 30 feet square. Near the top are four square openings, one on each side, which have very much the appearance of eyelet holes, only, unfor- tunately, they are placed at the wrong end of the needle. Every now and then persons' heads could be seen. SinitlCs First Peep at America. 347 peering out of these eyelets, as there is a spiral stair- case up the inside, by which visitors can ascend to a small chamber near the top, from which a very extensive view is obtained. BUNKER'S Hill monument. The following morning I was up by times, and oft by the eight o'clock train, in order to visit Plymouth, the place where the early Pilgrim Fathers landed, and commenced the first English settlement in New England; 348 ' ^(^gg<^ge cind Boots ; or, which has grown and spread, with such marvellous rapidity, over the North American Continent. Plymouth is thirty seven miles from Boston, and is a town of about 7,000 inhabitants. On arriving, I first visited Pilgrim Hall, which is on Court Street near to the railway depot, and in which are sundry relics of those first settlers who crossed the Atlantic in the "May-flower/* There is the cradle in which the first baby was rocked : the barrel of an old gun, wherewith Miles Standish (the man whom the holy Puritans brought over to do their fighting for them,) shot King Philip, an Indian chief. There are also various articles of cabin furniture, from the *'3 lay-flower," together with sundry pots and pans used by the emigrants during the voyage, and after their arrival, and various small Indian implements and curiosities. A few good oil paintings of more modern origin — (one representing the departure from England, and bidding farewell to friends at Ply- mouth, and another depicting their landing, in deep snow, and their pleading with the menacing Indians to be allowed a footing) — about complete the museum. In a glass case on the wall were various small pieces of granite rock for sale, varying in size from half a cherry to a walnut, and pricf^d from 25 cents to two dollars. These were said to be chips from the veritable rock on which the Fathers first stepped from their boat when they landed, but although I had no reason to doubt the assertion, I felt I might have much difficulty to prove the fact to an incredulous hearer, and that even were I able to do so, my listener might still feel very indifferent as to whether they were genuine or not, SviitlCs First Peep at America, 349 seeing that it would be easy enough to pick up similar looking pieces in almost any quantity. Under these circumstances I thought it just as well not to trouble the janitor in charge of the room, but to let the dollars remain in my pocket, and the chips of rock on the shelves in the glass case. On the plot of ground in front of Pilgrim Hall is a large mass of rock, which is a poi'tio7i of that on which the Fathers first trod, and from which it was accidentally broken off. It is surrounded by strong iron railings, so that there is no opportunity of breaking still smaller pieces off to carr} away as relics, instead of buying them off" the shelves in the glass case, at the Museum. The names of twelve of the early Fathers are worked in iron letters on small iron shields forming part of the fence surrounding the precious stone. A little further along Court Street, on the opposite side of the way, is the Court House ; in a back room of which is a cabinet, containing some of the earliest legal documents of these early emigrants. Among others, the visitor is shown one which is very amusing. It is an agreement, duly signed and witnessed, by which certain of the Fathers sold to Miles Standish " six shares in the Red Cow." The " Red Cow " was not the sign for a public-house or roadside inn, American *^ saloons," being of later origin. No, the Red Cow Vr^as a veritable live quadruped. It appears that there were, at first, thirteen owners of this said cow ; anyhow, the joint ownership was divided into thirteen shares. As the colony grew, some of the more adventurous wished topush on to other parts, and among them some of the owners 350 Baggage and Boots ; or, of the Eed Cow; so that the poor creature was in danger of being pulled in different directions at once by the contending proprietors. The only way that could be found to settle the difficulty, was for some of them to give up their claim to any portion of the creature. Accordingly they sold out, and Miles Standish became the purchaser of six-thirteenths of the Red Cow. A short distance from the Court House, a street leads down to the water-side, at the identical spot where the emigrants stepped on shore. The noted Plymouth Rock, on which they first set foot, is not now by the water's edge, as coal wharves have been built, and a short pier run out into the Bay in front of it. The rock has also been raised several feet, although it still remains exactly over its original position. It was during the process of raising that the mass now in front of Pilgrim Hall became detached. A granite canopy has been erected over the portion by the water-side. The top constitutes a sarcophagus, which now contains the bones of some of the Fathers. Not far from the rock, and running from the water's edge straight inland, is Leyden Street, the first street ever built in New England. Near by is Coles Hill, the Pilgrims' first burial ground. Here, in less than six months from their arrival, they laid nearly half their number, who died under the severities of that first terrible winter. No headstones marked the graves ; and in the spring they sowed the place over with com, for fear lest the Indians, discovering what fearful havoc death had wrought among them, should now attack their reduced numbers and annihilate the rest. Religious persecution SmitlCs First Peep at America. 351 at home drove these Puritans to seek a refuge on such an inhospitable shore. Their ha -t js, however, did not seem to teach them what in E .opo they thouoht was so sorely needed, viz., religious toleration; for when, a few years later, a Quaker named Roger Williams sought a home among them, they drove him out on account of the diffeitnt views they and he held on certain religious topics. He wandered forth and sought an asylum among the Indians, although in so doing he went with his life in his hands, as the chances of being massacred by them in retaliation for the depredations of Miles Standish, (the Brethren's fighting man,) were very great. Williams' conciliatory inoffensive manners, however, preserved him, and the Indians suffered him to live. He founded a settlement about thirty-five miles from Plymouth, which, in remembrance of the Divine care that had preserved him through so many dangers, he named Providence. Providence is now the second citv of the New Encrland States, both in wealth and size, having a population of over 100,000. On a small prominence at the back of Plymouth called Liberty Hill, a monument was com- menced that was desiorned to be a " National Memorial to the Pilgrims." In order to carry out American ideas, it was planned of course to be of colossal pro- portions. On a massive granite base, 40 feet high, stands a mammoth statue of granite, intended to represent Faith. An inscription below informs the reader that the Memorial has been erected by the voluntary sub- scriptions of a " grateful nation," &c. As the Irishman however, would say, " the grateful nation is very back- ward in coming forward," for the funds gave r . long 352 Baggage and Boots ; or, before it was completed ; probably it would be more correct to say, they never came in, and although it was commenced twenty-four years ago, it still remains in an unfinished condition. I was informed that it would be a rare job to raise the necessary funds to complete it ; and in no sense can it be regarded as a national monument, raised by the whole of the American Republic, as nobody outside the New England States cares a pin about it. The Americans are not, as a nation, the descendants of the Pilgrim Fathers, nor are they by any means exclusively of English origin. Manhattan Island, for instance, on which New York now stands, was colonised by a party of Dutch emigrants before ever the voyagers in the ^^ Mayflower " set foot in the New World. A fev/ miles from the unfinished monument, on Liberty Hill, on some rising ground on the opposite side of Plymouth Bay, is another monument to Miles Stan- dish, also left unfinished. America is a land of unfinished monuments. Their ideas are at present far too big for their pockets. The great monument to the ever illustrious Washington, at the Federal Capital was to have been 600 feet high, nothing lower being sufficiently lofty for the flight of the American mind. They had not, however, raised it one-third of this height (174 feet) when the funds gave out, and it has long remained, an ugly square tower without finish, grace, or beauty, but, on the other hand, quite a disfigurement to the otherwise beautiful city of Washington. 'That afternoon I returned to Boston, where I remained some days, visiting the various sights, and places of note, in the surrounding districts. Smith'' s First Peep at America. 353 It was a lovelj September afternoon when I took my seat in the six o'clock ^^boat express " from Boston to Fall River. The run of forty-nine miles was accom- plished in one hour and twenty minutes, and the passengers for New York walked on board the ^' Providence " — the sister boat to the *^ Bristol/* which I have already described. I was unable to obtain a state room, the whole of them, pbout two hundred in number, having been previously engaged. I, however, came off better than I expected, for instead of having to sit up all night, or sleep on a mattress on the floor of the saloon, I found that my passage ticket provided for a berth downstairs, in one of a set of comfortable cabins placed round the supper saloon, in the hold of the vessel, the principal c ifference being that I did not have the room to myself, but had to share it with two others. When I made my appearance on deck the following morning, about half-past seven o'clock, I found the " Providence " had completed her journey, and was already moored in her berth, along pier No. 28, North Biver, New York. One of the first things to do was to visit the office of the " White Star Company," and exchange my return ticket for a passage ticket. It is always advisable to do this as long beforehand as possible, in order to obtain a good state-room, although so late in the season there was no fear of every berth having been taken, as the exodus of Americans to Europe takes place earlier, to avoid the oppressive heat of the United States summer. The vessel was advertised to sail the following Satur- 354 Baggage and Boots, &*c,f day morning at ten o'clock, with the United States mails, &c., and all passengers were requested to be on board by nine o'clock at the latest. This is a very necessary direction, as there are some people who do not seem to understand punctuality, and are always behind, especially when they are cumbered with luggage ; and who, if they have not crossed before, are unaware that with the Mail Steamers between England and America, ten o'clock means ten o'clock, and not half-past, or five minutes past, or one minute past either. CHAPTER XXIV. Smith starts for Home — Punctual Departure —The Gulf Stream- Little Feathered Prisoners — " Purgatory " and *' Paradise " — Big America — Sickly Americans — Druggists versus Saloon-keepers — Patients who don't wish to be cured — Medicine to suit the Taste —The Ship's Doctor prescribes — Cutting off the Gulf-Stream — The Iceberg Hoax — Paying to pass Temple Bar — Shipboard Games, Bull-board, Shuffle-board, and Quoits — Conversation about Montreal — Tlie Koman Catholic Cemetery there — The Fourteen Stations to the Cross — Joseph Guibord — Buried under Military Escort — Winter Funerals in Lower Canada — A Heavy Tombstone. IT was a beautiful autumnal day, that on which I found myself standing on the promenade deck of the "White Star steamer, '^ Celtic," watching the final preparations that were goino^ forward for the ocean voyage before us. It was about half-past nine o*clock, and apparently the passengers had all arrived in good time, in accordance with the notice on their passage ticktts, that stated they should be on board by nine o'clock at the latest. But no, another hack drives on to the Company's quay, with some more passengers and their baggage, who, if they had not been told to be on board an hour before the sailing, would probably have been later still, and left behind. About a quarter to ten a two-horsed dray drove up with the mail-bags, about seventy in number. The mails from America to England are never so heavy as vice versa, as the United States government ^' patronise '* 356 ^(igg^g^ (tnd Boots ; or^ five different lines of steamers to send their letters by, while the British Post Offico only employ three of these lines. The ship's bell now commenced to ring, and the quarter-masters to call out, " Now for the shore." Last '* Good-byes " and " Farewells " were hurriedly taken, and full half the apparent number of passengers proved to be only friends come to see the voyagers off, as they streamed on to the quay. One or two more passengers arrived, and were hurried on board at the last minute. " What's the time,'' called the Captain to one of the quartermasters. " Ten o'clock, sir," was the reply. '^ Pull in that gangway. Sharp. Do you hear? Let go that cable." The pilot, who was standing on the bridge with the Captain, now took command, and the vessel slowly backed out into the stream just as the neighbouring clocks were chiming the hour of ten. The " Celtic " proceeded very cautiously along among the shipping and ferry steamers plying hither and thither on the Hudson or North Eiver, until it reached Battery Park, and then increased its speed as it steamed away past the various small islands in the beautiful bay of New York. In about two hours we had passed safely over the noted Sandy Hook Bar at the entrance to the bay, and the pilot then left, and returned in the small boat that had been in tow alongside. The surrounding country about here is flat, and in less than an hour thje last sight of land had disappeared from the view of those on board the steamer, who SmitlCs First Peep at America, 357 now adjourned to the saloon as the gonor sounded to announce to the passengers that it was one o'clock, and that lunch was ready ; after which they began to shake down into the regular routine of Atlantic steamer life by taking an afternoon nap in their state-room, or spreading their steamer chairs on the deck and lolling there, half asleep, with a book in their hand or a cigar in their mouth. The next day the steamer entered the Gulf Stream, which was easily ascertained by the temperature of the water and the quantity of seaweed floating on the surface. Being Sunday, the usual regulation service was held in the saloon at half-past ten. There was no sermon or address of any kind, nor was there any other service held in the after part of the day. On the previous afternoon, a few hours after we lost sight of land, several small birds came flying to the vessel, ^vhich the second mate said had doubtless been blown off* Long Island in the gale of the day before, and were unable to regain their home. They remained, clinging to the rigging or flying to and fro, for the rest of the day, every now and then darting down to pick up any crumbs of food they could spy about the deck. One of them, a pretty little creature, very swift on the wing, and with a pretty little tuft on the crown of the head, was still flying about the ship. It appeared to be of the woodpecker tribe, as it would cling to the cordage and peck into the tarred ropes, evidently in search of insects for food. The other two had dis- appeared, and on enquiry I learned that they had been caught, but were not likely to live, as they liad been 358 Baggage and Boots ; or, too used to a life of freedom long to survive a caged existence. The following day the third little visitor had disappeared, and had probably died, as it did not come to feed on the crumbs thrown about for it. Among the passengers I soon made several acquaint- ances. In the first place there was Mr. Standish, the gentleman who shared the same state-room, and who had just come right through from San Francisco, having been eight days and nights in the train, which he described as " purgatory," wearying in the extreme (as doubtless it was), and declared the longest sea-voyage, on board a splendid steamer, like the one we were travelling on, to be "paradise" by way of comparison. Another passenger I already had some slight acquaint- ance of, as we had crossed together on board the *^ Britannic," in the previous May. He w^as a Mr. West, a Canadian gentleman in the timber trade, and was now crossing the Atlantic for the seventy-seventh time, as he came to Europe on business twice every year, and had done so for the last nineteen years. Another acquaintance that I made on board, was that of a Mr. Burns, a Louisville gentlemen, who was pleased to find that I had visited Kentucky in my tour through the States. * .,,- One evening, after dinner, a small party consisting of the above and one or two others, had adjourned to the Smoking Room, where we were 3itting cracking nuts, and sipping our after dinner coffee, when one of them asked what brought me to the States. ''- Oh, I came simply on pleasure, to have a look round, as I think you American gentlemen would call it." SmitJCs First Peep at America. 359 " Well, I guess you've enjoyed your tour," said Mr. Jefferson, a New Yorker. " Yes, indeed. I have, immensely." '^ We are a big people, and live in a big country, do we not?" asked Mr. Standish. "As for the size of the people, they're much about the same stature, as far as I can see, as the human race generally. You certainly have a large country to live in, too big for you, ever so much/' I replied. ^* How so ? " exclaimed several voices. SMOKING-ROOM ON ATLANTIC STEAMER. " Why, I mean too big to be successfully ruled by one government. The interests of east, south and west, are so verv different." " But don't you know each State make its own laws ? What is legal in one State, is often illegal in the next. Our Government is a confederation of independent States, 360 Baggage and Boots ; or, • foT military purposes and foreign relationships," said Ai\ Jefferson. " Yes, I know that ; but even in military affairs it is necessary that they should be in harmony with the general feeling of the people. For instance, you would never draw soldiers from the Western States, where the interests of the inhabitants dictate a free trade policy, to fight in the cause of the high tariff and protective policy that New Englanders seem so mad on." " Mad on^ indeed. There is a large class of people in England who are mad on ' free trade,' — make it almost their religion, and, in fact, I guess you must be one of them," said Mr. Jefferson. '* Come, gentlemen, don't get co quarrelling. Well, Mr. Smith, tell us w^hat you liked best of all you saw in our big country," put in Mr. Standish. " Niagara, undoubtedly. I could have well enjoyed a month there," I answered. " I heard you say you visited the Mammoth Cave ; what do you think of that? Some people say they prefer it even to Niagara," interposed Mr. Burns. " Yes, I know, one of the party who went through at the same time I did expressed those views. For my own part, however, I cannot share in such an opinion." " Did you visit Cave Hill Cemetery, when you were at Louisville ? " " Yes, I did, and thought it was the most beautiful I had ever seen." ** I guess that is so, after your ugly, doleful English churchyards, with those large, unsightly headstones, many of them leaning twenty or thirty degrees from SiiiitJUs First Peep at America, 361 the perpendicular; and the ground banked up, as though to keep the dead ones from escaping from their graves before the appointed time." '^ I quite agree with you, as I have seen many- En o-hsh cemeteries. I have often, however, been amused with the inscriptions I have seen on the head stones, in some of the country places," said Mr, West. *' Tell us some of them," demanded several listeners. " Oh, I for^ret them. The onlv one I can remember just at the present moment was on a tombstone in a small countr}^ churchyard, which read as follows ; — 'I was ill; — Sent for the doctor, Took physic ; — And died.' •' I flfuess that was not much of an advertisement for the village doctor," interposed Mr. Raynor (of Boston). *^If I had been he, I guess I should have at once struck out for another locality. I've heard say the doctors and the undertakers are in league together." ** I think the Americans must be a sickly lot, especially down Kentucky way," I said. ^^;How so ? " asked Mr. Burns. '^ Why, because of the flourishing state of all the drufj^ists' stores. In all the countrv vilWes that I visited the druggist appeared to prosper, even if no one else did, not even the publicans — saloon keepers you call them." ^' That is so, and shall I tell you why ? " '' Please do, for it was nn inexplicable mystery to me. I saw their stores apparently full of customers, when every other store was empty." '^ That is simply because they sell spirits, the same as A A 362 Baggage and Boots; or, the saloon keepers, and at the same time stand at a much greater advantage to the latter, as they do not have to take out a license." '^ Then why don't the saloon keepers call themselves druggists, and do the same ? Why should a chemist be able to evade the law, by simply painting up the word 'Druggist,' on the facia over his store ? " '^ Oh, but it is only as a medicine that the druofgist 1& allowed to supply anyone with spirits. If be scld them to any casual customer that might step mU lis store, he would then be infringing the law. He nn only supply spirits ' as a medicine,^ and the customer has to bring a doctor's prescription to that effect." " But how can a person who is not ill get a doctor to write him out a prescription ? If he went to a doctor with a tale that he was ill, in nine cases out of ten the prescription would not contain what he really wished for ; and even if he could make >sure of all these things, I should not have thought it would have paid to go and visit a doctor first each time he wanted a ten cent glass of alcoholic liquor." '^ That is so, of course it would not ; but this is the way it is managed. The intending patient goes to the doctor, and tells his tale. Of course the doctor sees through the disguise, and knows very well what he really wants, and writes out a prescription that Avill suit the taste of his patient. If he did not, it is very certain his customers would soon leave him, and he would have to strike his tent and be off to another State, as he most certainly would never prosper in Kentucky. The ' patient ' then goes to the rlruggist to have his pre- Smith's First Peep at America. 36 o scription 'made up/ which lie does times without number, as the same paper is allowed to remain in force for a twelvemonth." ^^ Why, in England, if the doctor; did not cure their patients quicker than that, they svould soon lose their practice." " No; I guess they would not, if they prescribed the ^ame as ours do. With us, the experience is quite the reverse ; a^ter taking their medicine most diligently, and persistently, for a w^holc year, the patients invariably return to tne doctor to have the same prescription renewed quite satisfied w^ith the results, although not cuved." During the above conversation the ship's doctor had joined the group, and was apparently much interested in what was being said. Mr. Raynor here broke in :— ^'Well, doctor, what do you say to all this ? Is that the way you prescribe for your patients ? " ^ " Well, ^-entlemen, I've been thinkinrr how bad vou all look, and that I had bett:r prescribe for you a brandy cock-tail all round, or whiskey for those who prefer it, to be drunk at once on the premises." A general laugh greeted this '^ all round " prescrip- tion, and Mr. Jefferson replied, " Well, doctor, for my own part I quite agree with you, and I think we all do, and you'll join too, will you not ? " " Well, thank you, I have no ol^jection, and shall bo very pleased to do so." Immediately followed a general chorus of '^ steward." A steward at once came forward for orders. *' Two whiskey cock-tails, three brandy dittos, and one soda-water with brandy,'* said Mr. Jefferson. 364 Baggage and Boots ; or^ While the waiter had gone to fulfil this order, the conversation turned on the weather, and the speed o^ the ship. ^^ Doctor, we've got beautiful weather, and ought to make a quick passage. When do you think we'll arrive." " Oh, that is difficult to say. The weather has been good at present, but we can't tell what may be before us. If it continues as it is now, I should say we shall be in Liverpool on Tuesday morning of next week." '^ What course are we running — East ? " asked Mr. Burns. ^' No, that I know we're not," I exclaimed. ^^ East- north-east would be nearer the mark. Why the most southern part of England is nearer the North Pole than the northern shore of Lake Superior ; although people in freneral don't seem to reco«:nize the fact." Mr. Jefferson (who always enjoyed a rap at me, when he could get an opportunity), "Yes, those wretched little British Islands, enveloped in choking fog, and chilling mists and rain^ why they would be totaliy uninhabitable, frozen up altogether, if it were not for the warm water we send you across the Atlantic from our Gulf. So you see you have America to thank for all you get." *^ You send, indeed ! Well, then, cut it off. I know you would if you could." The lau^'i was now turned upon Jefferson, but he was not to be done so easily, for he promptly replied, ^* Yes, we are going to. A company is being formed do vn south for that purpose." " Mr. Smith, when you came across in the spring, what sort of passage did you have ? As good as this ? " asked Mr. Raynor. SviitJCs Fif'st Peep at Avieri:a, 365 *^ No, it was much colder and rougher." ^* You might cross twent}' times and not have so cahn a passage as we are having now," said Mr. West. I added (giving a nod to Jefferson), " And as we neared the American shore, it got colder still, with chilly mist and fog off the Newfoundland bank, so that we were nearly running into an iceberg." " I will still maintain that was British weather, as Newfoundland is not under the Stars and Stripes, but under the Union Jack," said Mr. Jefferson. '^ I know that," I replied, ^'but it is American land for all that ; and I am quite positive that even if the Stars and Stripes floated there, the fogs, and mists, and rain would still continue, in spite of United States legislation." . " That remains to be proved." " Did you see the iceberg ?" asked Mr. Burns. " No. We passed it very early one morning, but a few of the passengers did, and determined to have a lark with some of the others. So they clustered in the companion way, and as one and another made their appearance, they pretended to be in earnest conversation between themselves. ' Yes. and was it not an enormous size ? ' one would say. ' Indeed it was,' another would reply. ' What is it your talking about ? ' the new arrival would be sure to ask. ^ Oh, don't you know ; did you not see the iceberg ? * ^ No, have we passed one ? When ? Where ? ' ' Yes, this morning,' * Yes, and was it not a size ? ' would chime in another. ^ Yes, you could not see the summit, it was lost in the fog.' * Yes,' added a companion, * and did you not see the polar bear sitting on tjie top ? ' ^ Yes, and it was sitting oC)(j Baggage and Boots ; or, on its haunches.' 'Yes, and did you not see the captain shoot at him ?' and so on." '^ And was that really so ? " asked Mr. Standish. *^ At first I did not know what to believe. I knew that polar bears were sometimes found on ice-floes, but had never heard of their being seen on the top of an iceberg, ' sitting on its haunches, looking over the edge,' as they said, but when they asserted that the captain fired at it, as far as I was concerned I felt convinced that if the ship had been as near an iceberg as all that, the captain would have something else to think about than to ofo bear-shootino; even had there been a hundred there. At last, however, the whole tale exploded by one of the fellows so overstretching the mark as to say, ^Yes, and it was sinofinor Kule Britannia.' " '^ It was a pity that young chap should have spoilt the fun in that way, but I suppose they were trying how much the English passengers would swallow. I've heard they will credit the most extraordinary statements," said Mr. Raynor. "Not more than other people," I replied. *^^Why, when I was in Boston, I met a nan who had been to London, and who told me how he had been sucked in bv an omnibus driver. He and a friend got up on a 'bus in the Strand to ride to the city, and took their seats on the knife-board, by the side of the driver, in order that they might ascertain from him the names of the public buildings they passed. Presently they came to an ugly structure built across the road, with one central arch for the road traffic, and a smaller one on each side for the foot passengers. I will tell you the rest in our Boston friend's own words. Sniit/is First Peep at Anieriea, 367 '^ Coachman, what is this we're cominir to ? " ** This is Temple Bar, and marks the entrance to the City of London. You pay sixpence to pass here. Even the Queen never passes without permission from the Lord Mayor, and he and the Aldermen come to escort her through the City.' ' Who do we pay the six- pence to ? ' I asked. To which i\iQ driver replied, ' To me.' So my friend and I each forked out sixpence, which we gave to him. He looked very smiling, but put the money in his pocket, and a few minutes later we arrived at St. Paul's Cathedral, when we got down, and the 'bus drove on. ^^As v/e walked into the Cathedral, I said, ' What did you give that man sixpence for ? ' and he replied, ' Because you did : but I oruess we had no need to do so, for I saw no one else pay anything, whether riding or walking.' So we came to the conclusion that we had been done, and afterwards made some enquiries, and found it was so, and ofoi; a irood deal lauo-hed at." *^And serve them right," interposed Mr. Raynor. ^^ I don't believe, however, that the men were born Yankees, although they may live in Boston." *^ Doctor, what has become of that letter that was lying on the mantelshelf, here, for two or three days ? Have you found the owner ? " asked Mr. Standish. '' Yes, I believe ?o," said the doctor, " I understand it was for one of the steerage passengers, although being addressed Esquire, we never thought to ask in that -quarter." ^^ When I came over in the spring," said Mr. West, ^' at Queenstown a teleoram came on board for one of 368 Baggage and Boots ; or, the passengers, and was put on the mantel-piece, and he never noticed it until the next njorning, when we were at sea. It w^as to tell him to return on most important business. He was in a great way about it, and said he would give a thousand pounds to be put on shore ; but of course it was useless, as we were many miles away. So he had to go all the way across the Atlantic, only to start back again by a vessel of another line, sailing the day after we arrived." It was now getting late, and the company having paid for and taken the '' physic " ordered by the doctor, separated, some to the smoking-room, others to their state-rooms, or else for a sharp walk up and down the promenade deck, before turning in for the night, it being a beautiful moonliorht evenino-. The principal out-door games provided for the amuse- ment of the passengers during the voyage, are known as bull-board, shuffle-board, and quoits. The bull-board is a large flat board, about the size of an ordinary kitchen-table, and covered with black canvass stretched tightly over it, and nailed at the edge or back. White lines are painted across the face of the board, dividing it into twelve squares, on each of which a number is clearly painted. The game is played as follows : — The board is laid on the deck, and something usually placed under the further end, to raise it about a foot. A chalk mark is drawn a few^ yards off, and the object of the game is to throw small leaden weights, about the size of an old-fashioned turnip watch, on to the prize squares,. a bystander keeping account of the scores made by the respective players. Of course the rules of this game can be varied almost indefinitely. Smith's First Peep at Aweriea. 3G9 Rhip's quoits are made of rope, covered with canva?, and the game is played somewhat in the same way as land quoits. In the game of ShufHe-board, squares are chalked out on deck resembling those drawn by the London Board School children on the street pavements for the game they call ^' Hop-scotch." Shuffle-board is played somewhat in the same way as bull-board ; only, instead of throwing anything, the players are provided with a sort of wooden spade, and standing at a certain distance endeavour to shove round discs, made of india- rubber, on to the squares marked with the highest numbers, while your opponents in their turn endeavour with their discs to send yours off again. One afternoon I and some others had been trying our hand at each of these games in turn, but had grown tired, and were standino; by, havinrr a chat, while watchino; some others play, who had staked half-a-crown a-piece on the issue, and were therefore somewhat inclined to be contentious whenever an opportunity for dispute arose. ^' I believe you visited Montreal in your tour. What did you think of it ? " said Mr. West to me. '' I think the situation is beautiful, with that glorious Mount Royal for a back-ground, towering seven hundred feet above the citv, and thickly wooded to the summit. It is a capital idea to have reserved it as a public park for the inhabitants." ^' Did you visit the Roman Catholic Cemetery, on the further side of the mountain ? " he asked " Yes, and saw the fourteen Stations to the Cross." " What are they ? " enquired Mr. Raynor. " It is evident you do not belon": to the Roman 570 Baggage and Boots ; or. Church, or you would know. The fourteen Stations to the Cross are representations of some of the leading events in the life of our Saviour ; such as the Feast at Cana of Galilee, the Last Supper, the Crucifixion, which, by the bye, is the thirteenth, while the last is the empty tomb, intended to represent the Resurrection. At the Cemetery at Montreal, each of these events is depicted by models and bas-relief representation, carefully pro- tected from the weather, and preserved under arches of stone, built up at the back, and glazed in front. This does not apply to the thirteenth, as the Crucifixion is shown by life sized figures to represent Christ and the two thieves, hanging on crosses about twenty feet high, implanted on a rising mount at the further end of the Cemetery. On Good Fridays and other fast days, thousands of devout Catholics make the ' tour,' as it is •called, faliinor down on their knees before each station as they come to it, to say an Ave-Maria or Pater- Noster, however bad the weather." '•I'm sure you cannot but admire their devotion, however much you may disapprove of the form their religious opinions take," said Mr. Standish. Mr. West then enquired if I saw Joseph Guibord's tomb, when I was in the Roman Catholic Cemeterv at Montreal. *' Yes, you mean t le grave covered with a massive block of granite, the shape of an enormous coffin, with a small slab of white marble inserted in the top containing the name of the deceased, and date of his death. It has however, been so mutilated, that I could scarcely read it, and the block of granite also has been so chipped SniitJCs First Peep at America. 371 about in all directionSj as to be almost undefinable in shape." " How has that come about ? Is it an old tomb ^ inquired several of the listeners. " Oh dear, no," said Mr. West. " Mr. Guibord only •died in 1875. He was a Roman Catholic nrentleman residing in Montreal, and became a member of the Montreal Institute, a high-class literary society. In consequence of the society, although nominally Catholic, choosinaggage" — Some people seem to prefer checks to ba';gage — Revolver carrying — Preaching and practice — Arrival at Liver^iool — Journey to London — End of all troubles Ri *' Baggage and Boots." TT was Sunday afternoon. The '' Celtic " had now been -*■ eight days at sea, and the passengers were looking forward to seeinof land thj followinor morninfj. Mr. Burns and I had both been enjoying ourselves on the promenade deck, taking it easily, resting ourselves in our steamer chairs, each with a book borrowed from the ship's library. Presently I said, "Wby,it is half-past ^yq already, there goes the gong to prepare for dinner. I wonder whether we are to have the wedding breakfast this evenincr or to-morrow." ^' What do you call the wedding breakfast ? " " Why, the last dinner of the voyage is usually an extra grand one. ^^\ provisions are even more sump- tuous than usual and covered with ornaments as though they had just been sent in from a first-class pastry-cook's, and stuck over with little Enojlish and American fla^s. The cakes are covered with splendid ornaments just like a bride's cake, and bon-bons are placed by the side of your plate. That is why I call it the wedding breakfast, although it is,I believe,usually called the Captain's dinner. Of course we do not expect to land until Tuesday, but 392 Baggage and Boots ; or, the passengers for Ireland will probably have left before this time to-morrow." " The provisioning has been very good throughout the voyage, any one not satisfied must indeed be hard to please." *^ I think so too. Here we have had both Eno[lish and American dishes." **Is there much difference between the food in American and in Ennrlish hotels ? " " Yes, I noticed several things that to me at least were novel. For instance Clam Chowder soup, or, in fact, clams in any form, then Blue fish, Bass fish, and soft shelled crabs, also the bear flesh, that was occasionally to be had at the tip-top hotels ; and the large variety of hot bread that you eat, and which, for the most part, I did not like at all ; besides sundry vegetables and fruit quite new to me. " " Such as what ? " *' Well, Green-corn, for instance, is quite unknown with us, and then, again, the immense number of tomatoes the Americans eat quite astonish an Englishman. Tomatoes for breakfast, tomatoes for luncheon, tomatoes for dinner, tomatoes for supper, tomatoes raw, tomatoes boiled^ tomatoes baked, tomatoes stewed, tomato sauce, tomato soup, &c., in fact tomatoes everywhere and always. Then, again the great abundance of peaches, sweet melons, and canteloupes, which I thought very nice, as also the blue berries, so plentiful during August in Lower Canada. There was another thing with w^hich I was a good deal struck, and that was the number of eggs you use, and the great variety of ways in which you cook and eat Smith'' s First Peep at America^ 303 them. Eggs boiled, fried, poached, shirred, dropped, scrambled. Omelettes plain, omelettes with sugar, with herbs, with parsley, with cheese, with ham, with kidneys, with onions, with jelly, and with your "Cverlastinn: tomatoes." " Are peanuts ate as largely in England as with us ? '* " No, indeed, they are almost unknown, and not much of a miss either, for 1 think them no better than acorns, and cannot imafjine what makes the Americans so fond of them." " Is that so? Well now, let us come below and see the -decorations before the company take their places for dinner." . We accordingly did so, and found the tables beautifully arranged, and ornamented in a manner reflecting great credit on the stewards. The followino: mornin^r the first thinof I did on wakin;; was to jump up and look out of the porthole of my state room to see if land was in sight. I hardly expected it would be, and was much surprised to find that the vessel was steaming along quite close to the wild, rugged cliffs that form the coast line of the south-west of Ireland. I dressed quickly, and hurried on deck in order to obtain a more extended view just in time to see a string of colours denoting the number of the ship, &c., run up the mizzen mast, and which were soon answered by a signal from the coast guard station on shore, and from where the arrivf.l of homeward bound ships is telegraphed to the owners' agents in Queenstown or elsewhere. After breakfast a mail bag was hung up in the saloon for the reception of passengers' letters intended to be c c 394 Baggage and Boots ; or, posted in Quecnstown, and tele^aph forms were laid on the table for those who wished to advise their friends either in England or America of their safe arrival. About noon the *^ Celtic " reached the entrance to Queenstown harbour, where she was met by the company's tender, which brought out the pilot who was to navigate the ship into the port of Liverpool, and to which were transferred the whole of the mails brought by the ^'Celtic" and the passennrers bound for Ireland, together with the letters and telegrams written by the passengers. This operation only occupied about ten minutes, during which both steamers had continued travellinfj in order that not a minute of time should be lost. As soon as it was completed, the tender let go the cables with which she was lashed to the ocean steamer, and turned her head towards Queenstown, while the other pursued her course for the ISt. George's Channel. That afternoon, as Mr. Burns and I were taking a *^ constitutional" up and down the promenade deck, he said, *^ I have never crossed before, and should be glad 1^ you would give me a little information on one or two points." " I shall be pleased to do so, if it is in my power." *^ One thing I want to know is, on landing do I give my baggage to an ^express- man' to convey to the rail- road depot for me ? " " No, indeed, as soon as you set foot on our happy shore the American miseries of ' Baggage and Boots ' will disappear like snow in the sun. As soon as your lu ororaffe has been examined by the Custom house officials jou hail a hack— we call them cabs — and you and your V Smith's First Peep at America. 395 ^^SS^g^ o^ together wherever you want, at about one third the price charged for the same services in the United States." " And at the depot I suppose I can get my baggage checked through to London?" ** Not in the American sense of the word, as our Eailway Companies never give any tallies in exchange, as with you." " Is that so ? I wonder the peopl