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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. y errata )d to nt ie pelure, 9on d U 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 i~ r :fi ,11 < 1 ( I 1, » •'■>. \ ; r • ••'--St? Act of ( '(,ii),ncs8 in tiu' \ oar'lS.W^ """ B V T . \V. ST KOX (i , In 11... CkM-k-.s OlYH'.of tl,.. District („nrl „r the lYitcl Stat.-s, for the .Southern District of New Yorli. I ~ ^ -^ J- c) ViNOKNT L. Dill, Ktereotyper, 198 Fullon Street, New York. ,i^-\.-v-v X-X.^ -■ Adki;, Printer, 213 & 215 Centre Street. ^jj^ ten o'clock precisely on the inoi'niiij^ cf of the 7th of AiiuMist, 18;").'), tlie steamer T-i — -^- t^T^ Jiuiics Adu'er left her i)ier, Xo. 4 North Iviver, with ii larg-e iiuiiil)('r of passen- gers on board. Now as she had been in the hal)it of doin,u: this at least onee every two weeks, there inij>ht api)ear, .:fter all, to be nothino; extra- ordinary in the fact of her doing so on the day in question, and still less might there appear any necessity for stating that fact. Hnt there was isoniething in the circum.stances coiniected with her de[)arture on that A T R I i' TO N E W !• U U Nl; L A N D occasion which we think will justify us in rt'cordiiig it, aud presenting to the American public a simple, brief and unpretending narrative of her voyage, and the objects and incidents of the mission on which she was employed. There are very few who have not heard of that grand achievement of human genius, the electric telegraph, and of the wonderful things that have been accomi)lislied through its agency ; — how distant lands have been brought into close connection ; how people separated by thousunds of miles have been enabled through it to communicate their thouglits lo each other almost with the same rapidity as they could express them ; how it has iinniliilatcd time and s{)ace, and how in connection with the steam engine, and the })rinting press it is silently and slowly, but surely performing its part in working out the civilization and progress of mankind. Twenty years ago j)eople when they heard what would now be considered the hum- ble claims it made to public notice treated them with ridicule, for they could not conceive it possible for an invisible, im})alpable body, more subtle than the air we breathe, to carry messages with the speed of the light- ning itself over a distance of a thousand miles. Where now is the skepti- cism with which it was received, and where the unbeliever who has not been converted from his infidelity ? Not more than eleven years have passed since the first electric telegraph was established between Baltimore and Wasiiington, and now our country is intersected by a perfect net-work of wires extending over a distance of forty-two thousand miles But this is not all, for if we direct our attention to Europe, we will find that there are more than thirty thousand miles of it in operation on that continent, making altogether for the Old and the New Worlds a total of over seventy thousand miles. But while the success of the telegraph on the land was fully estab- lished, the water appeared to present an insuperable barrier against its A TRIP TO N K AV F O i: X n I, A N n , universal dominion. Every attempt to manufacture a wire wliicli would operate in tliat element with the same facility as on tlie land had failed, and the most sanguine began to despair. It was necessary to insulate it witli some material which would protect it com})letely from tlie water and which at the same time would not interfere with the passage of the electric current. Every thing that human ingenuity could think of was tried, and after several years of unavailing effort, the idea was abandoned. It was in this emergency that the invaluable properties of gutta pcrcha were discovered and applied with perfect success in its manufacture, and in the year 1851 the first Submarine Telegraphic Cable was laid down between the Straits of Dover and Calais, a distance of twenty-four miles. Tins was shortly followed by others, connecting England witli the conti- nent ; and, as we have seen, during tlie present war the Black Sea has been crossed with a cable three hundred and seventv-four miles lonu", while another will soon be laid across the Mediterranean uniting the oi)posite shores of Europe and Africa. All these, gigantic as they may appear, sink into insignificance, how- ever, compared with that grandest of all projects and entcrprizes, the union of the Old world with the New. It has been said that human genius knows no limits, and, in the contemplation of this, the most unbelieving must admit that it certainly is not eag''y discouraged by obstacles. Who, looking at the aggregate results of science, will say that it is impossible, and that the great globe itself will not one day be girdled l)y a telegraphic belt along which thought shall pass with a speed defying calculation. Ob- jections it is true have been urged against its practicability ; but what great enterprize was ever yet conceived that did not meet with the opposi- tion of those who are always reatly to combat every new princi[)le, either in the social, the political or scientilic world. It is not our intention, however, to answer those objections ; the sub- :;i >f 6 A TRIP TO NKWFOUNDLAND, f' jcct has been argued long cnougli, and the controversy can only be termi- nated by the successful issue of the project. Meanwhile it may be well for ns to state here, tliat it has already received not only the countenance, l)nt tlie active support of some of tlie most practical men in the United States, France and England, and that ten millions of their capital have been invested in the enterprize. Tiic Transatlantic Submarine Telegraph Company have bound themselves by the terms of their charter to have a cable laid between Europe and America, in the year 1858, and this cable having its terminus on the eastern shore of Newfoundland, will be con- nected with a land line extending along the whole southern coast of that Island, to a point on Cape Ray at its southwestern extremity, at which point another will be laid across the entrance of the Gulf of St, Lnw- rencc to Cape Breton. A capital of fifteen hundred thousand dollars is embarked in the laying of the line on the American side, that is, across Newfoundland, the Gulf, Cape Breton and Prince Edward's Island to Xcw Brunswick, and this, it is expected, will be completed and in success- ful operation in the Fall of 1856. The capital is in the hands of another Association entitled, the New York, Newfoundland and London Telegraph Company.* The laying of the cable across the Gulf, perhaps the most import- ant part of the whole enterprize, should have been accomplished in August, 1855, but for a most unfortunate accident, or rather series of accidents, which have postponed the work for another year. The steamer James Adger was engaged to tow the cable-ship Sarah L. Bryant, from Cape Ray to Cape Breton, and it was for this [)urpose that she left New Fork on the day stated in the beginning of the chapter. It was intended by the Company that the voyage should be one of pleasure as well as A complete history of the enterprize Avill be found in the appendix. A TRIP TO N R W F O U N D L A X D , SCKNB ON BOARD THE JAMES ADGER. business, and they accordingly invited a large party of their friends to whom we shall, without further ceremony, introduce our readers : — Peter Cooper, Mrs. Cooper, Professor S. F, B. Morse, Mrs, Morse, Master A, B. Morse, Cyrus W. Field, James S. Sluyter, Robert W. Low- ber, Mrs. R. W. Lowbcr, Miss Ann Redficld, Rev. Gardner Spring, Rev. D. D. Field, Rev. II. M. Field, Mrs. II. M. Field, Miss Gracie Field, Miss Alice Field, Miss Allen L. Ilerndon, Dr. Lewis A. Sayre, Mrs. Lewis A. Snyre, David A. Sayre, Wni. M. Swnin, Master W. J. Swain, John Thorn- Icy, Prof. F. Sheppnrd, Baynrd Taylor, Miss Lizzie Alger, John Conger, I \ t , jn I I: \ 3 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. Rev. J. M. Slierwood, Mrs. Ann Palmer, Mrs. Edward D. Jones, Miss Mary Sterns, Marsliall Brewer,- P. N. Gisbourne, Chas. T. Middlebrook, John Mullaly, T. W. Strong, D. C. Hitchcock, S. A. Richards, B. F. Ely, n. W. Barron, Geo. H. Brown, A. A. Raven, F. O'Brien, F. H. Rainier, J. P. Palmer, Chas. J. Smith, Dr. P. A. Bruyere, John G. Kip, Chas. II. Houghton, J, W. Kennedy, Francis Winton, L. P. Palmer, Joseph Jones, Miss Cooper, Robert Russell. The weather on the morning of which we have spoken was all that could be desired ; the sun shone out in an almost cloudless sky, and the light breeze that rippled the surface of the water served only to moderate the intensity of the summer's heat. Everything seemed to favor the enterprize, and the crowd that thronged the deck of the steamer were buoyant with bright and hopeful anticipations of the future. There was an unusual bustle on Pier No. 4, North River, that morning, carriages came dashing down with heavy luggage and light-hearted passengers ; every body was in every body else's way ; people stood upon each other's toes and, strange to say, smiled good humoredly ; porters with •tlantean shoulders carried off trunks and portmanteaux of all imaginable shapes and sizes, and deposited them in the most out of the way places ; news- boys were eagerly soliciting customers for the morning papers ; vend- ers of light literature were loud in their praises of " the Blood red Avenger," " The desperate Burglar, or the Miser's Fate," " The Bandit's Cave, or the Robber's Oath," and a host of other works equally taking and terrible ; friends congratulated friends, and wished each other a happy voyage and a safe return ; scientific men looked graver and more import- ant than ever, and pronounced their opinion for the hundredth time how "that cable" should be laid ; and loud above the din and bustle and confusion rose the shrill whistle of the steam-pipe, announcing that the moment of departure was near. A TRIP TO N K W F U N D L A N D . 9 " Let go that haiiser there," sliouted several of the liands as tliey made ready to start, and tlie passengx-rs, who had till this time beeu in complete possession of the deck, at once gave way. Then there was a general shaking of hands, " a hurrying to and fro," the last passenger arrived on board after losing his hat and cane in his desperate struggle to be in time, the last rope was unfastened, the steam whistle gave out its last warning note, every body was told for the last time to " look out," and the James Adger commenced slowly moving out into the river. Three hearty cheers greeted her as she swung loose from the pier, and were repeated again and again as we swept past, A salute of three guns was fired from her bow, which was responded to by another from one of SpolTord & Tileston's Steamers, and the United States Frigate, Potomac, honored the company and the enterprize in which they were engaged, as far as the strict rules of the Xavy allowed, by running up the Stars and Stripes to her peak. Again and again we were cheered by our friends who crowded the end of the pier, until only the faint echo of their voices could be heard, and again and again we responded with a rivalry of friend- ship that was determined not be outdone. We were soon under full headway down the bay, and in a few minutes our friends became indistinguishable in the lengthenhig distance. The last we saw of them was through a telesco]ie, and there they still stood at the end of the pier waving their adieus. Gradually we lost sight of the large public buildings, and then the city itself began to disappear below the horizon. And now we have left Staten Island behind us, and sweeping past Nevisink are out on the open sea. Our first night on the water was marked by a grand display of celes- tial pyrotechnics that illuminated the whole heavens, and converted the liquid element through which we ploughed our way into an ocean of fire. It appeared as if the powers of the air had determined to signalize our Hi if' I ; 10 A T i: 1 1' r o N K w K o r n i> i- a \ i) , 1 ' mission, and they did so in a peculiarly appropriate manner. The ?cene was one of those which could never be forgotten. During the evening an electric machine was brought upon the upper deck and it was there when the night set in. Beside it sat Professor Morse, its inventor, who had been explaining the principle of its construction to the company but a few- hours before. Here and there were little groups, some on the bow, some on the wheel-house, and others scattered about the deck enjoying them- selves in pleasant social intercourse. The sweet music of woman's voice singing some favorite melody gave a new attraction to the scene. At first the lightning flashed in broad sheets along the horizon, then rapidly extending towards the zenith it lit up the sky with an almost dazzling bril- liancy. From behind the dense heavy masses of black clouds that hung on the ocean's verge were flung, as if by unseen hands, liuge balls of fire that left a track of flame to mark their course along the heavens. At intervals gigantic liery serpents darted from their place of ambush, writh- ing and twisting in their tortuous way through the ebon vault above, and then again all was dark as midnight. Gradually the clouds spread over the sky shutting out the pale and twinkling light of the stars, and the flashes of lightning became more vivid and more frequent until the whole heavens was one mass of flame. For two hours did we gaze on this magnificent spectach?, until the heavy drops of rain warned us of the coming storm and drove us unwillingly to seek shelter from its fury. That night we had a concert in the after cabin at which every body was present, and in which all who had voice for music and some who had not, joined. Some of the best airs from llobert Lc Diable and other popular operas, were sung with the most excpiisite taste by one of our lady passengers, and tiien, to give variety to tlie entertainment, we had the choicest selection from \egro Minstrelsy. "Rol)erttoi que j'aime," was followed by the " Danily Broadway Swell," and " The Colored Fancy n A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND, 11 SANBUO LIGHT OFF HALIFAX. Ball," shared the applause with " Come per me Sereno." The sailor's farewell to his lady-love was sung by a votary of the comic muse, and although evidently a pathetic subject, and one in which the aforesaid fair one and her "galliant" lover claimed the sympathy of the hearers, the tale of their distress was heard witli the most unfeeling indifference, and the end of each verse was the signal for an outburst of laughter. This from a company, too, that should have known l)etter was as Dogberry says, " most tolerable and not to be endured." There was one portion of the song which in justice to the composer we must quote, as it is in its way a perfect gem, and will servi^ to show the reader at a glance the sad plight of the lovers : ' .i f 4 fl " While you are on your slientlc bod ashloepiu' fast ashleep, Zen we poor J0II3' sailor's nw plougliiug on ze zeep." The reader will })crceive from this that the song is slightly foreign, and that " the Sweet German accent " is one of its most attractive fea- tures. But the concert like all other sublunary things had an end, and all I ii I j , '■*■ u it II ■ii j2 A TRIP TO KEWFOUNDLANM). rotircd for tl.e ni^ht to dream over tlic plcnsino: scones an.! inoiaenrs of the (lay The strains of nuisic oTadually (lic whole comi)any were on deck enjoying tlio i)rospe('t and on the 7»i rive for every thing that was novel I ■ : •! Hi! 1 \ I i i-'; U A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND, t>r ('X(•itill,^^ One younp^ gentleman wlio had evidently been under the impression that he was somewhere near the tropies, made his appearanee in tile purest kind of white, but after a few minutes exposure to the cool 8ea air he was compelled to beat a hasty retreat, and when next he came on deck he was an altered man. The excitement created by the gentle- man in white, however, soon passed over and every body was looking out for the next new wonder, when suddenly our ears were greeted with a well known sound that made us doubt whether we were really on the open sea and not in the streets of New York. At first we would not trust our senses, but after listening for a moment we were assured of the reality. There was no mistaking it^ — that energetic and enterprizing specimen of hinnanity, that indispensable member of society, that juvenile representa- tive of New York Democracy, the city newsboy, wa« in our midst selling the morning papers. " Here we are — got the last news from Europe — -have a copy sir ? " And there to our surprise stood one of our fellow passengers with a huge bundle of papers under his arm and surrounded by a crowd of eager a])plicants. " Only twenty-five cents a copy, gentlemen — ladies half price. Ont with your monev, no time to be lost — u'ot to be off." Many were at a loss to know where he was going to, and in their earnest iiKjuiries forgot to pay him. " Now then," he said, " turning a deaf ear to their questions—" now r have got only one copy left and as it contains the reri/ latest news, I must have a good price for it." " Put it up at auction," said one " that we may all have a fair chance." This proposition was received with unanimous apiu'oval, and the pajjcr was accordingly put up lu'evious to being knocked down to the highest bidder. A TRIP TO X K W F O T: N D L A N D . 15 " Now then ladies and gcntlcp^.cn let us be<;-in — no time to ))e lost," said the newsboy, assuming at once all the airs of an auctioneer. " How much is bid — how much — how much ? " " Half-a-dollar," said the first bidder. " Half-a-dollar it is," repeated the auctioneer, " half-a-dollar — af-af- af a dollar — af a doll-doll-dollar — who bids more. Seventy-five cents did I hear — I'm certain I did, if my ears did not deceive my eyesight. That's it gentlemen, I'm glad to see such liberality towards the daily press, it is one of our great institutions and should be well supported. The daily newspaper, gentlemen, " he continued is an indispensable institution — that means it can't be done without — it is the palladium of our liberties and must be supported by every lover of his country. How much do you bid for the paper — how much for the paper, how much. — I certainly heard a bid — a dollar it was — it was a dollar, I was not mistaken. Who said it was not worth a cent ?" " It's an old paper — nothing in it," said one of the crowd. " Nothing in it, nothing in it," he indignantly replied, spreading out the paper to its fullest extent. " Did you hear that gentlemen — did you hear that. None so blind as those who won't see. I will make you or any other gentlemen a present of it," he continued, " if you'll read it all through without stopping." It is almost needless to say that this liberal offer was not accepted, and the auctioneer went on to sell his paper without further interruption. He finally ran it up to a thousand dollars for which he received a check on one of the Banks of Newfoundland which was to be paid on presenta- tion — with a hook. Just as our friend got through with his last paper eight o'clock was struck by the ship's bell, and innnediatcly after we were sunnnoned to breakfast by the steward. The attendance in newspaper phraseology 'J 1T 16 A TRIP TO N K W F O U N !> L A N D , I' * " was very nnmcrons and the dcopcst intorcst was manifested in the pro- ceedings" — every individual present felt tluit he had "a stake" in the afliiir, wliieh mig-ht Ije materially damaged by his absence. All were in favor of action and all felt that on that occasion silence was mighty but language was weak, — in fact such was the impression made upon them that they were soon " too full for words." Some very good things were said however, and every one was both pointed and cutting in their treatment of the matter under discussion. In due time when all were satisfied that it had received full justice, several motions were made — to the door, and soon after the whole company adjourned. The remainder of the day was spent in various ways, as individual taste and feeling prompted— some read the papers and some didn't ; others amused themselves in looking at the whales which were spouting like temperance orators ; others again performed astounding gymnastic feats among the rigging, and when the night came and " darkness rested on the face of the deep " we had another concert, whicli it is sufficient to say, passed off as successfully as the first. But the weather whicli up to this time, was very favorable, changed on the following morning. We had been for some time off the bleak and rugged coast of Nova Scotia, and the heavy sea whicli generally prevails here wrought a remarkable change in the majority of our passengers. Tliey began to be deeply affected by the " bounding waves," and their feelint-s can be bet- ter imagined than described. There was a genend want of coiifidcnce and each went to his state room to divine what the cause of it could be ; but as it was a subject that recjuired " a mighty deal of nice consider- ation" it is not to be wondered at if it took a long time before it was satisfactorily setlled. It might bo well, however, to say that while in this state of feeling we felt we had no stomach for any thing. This was the third day of our voyage, and as we had intenih'd to put into Halifax * A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. n on our way to Newfoundland, we were anxiously looking out for Sanbro light which stands at the entrance to its harbor. A heavy fog, however, settled on the ocean, and although but a few miles from the port we wero obliged to put to sea and remain out till the following morning. During that night we were in imminent danger of a collision with another vessel, and but for the vigilance of our captain who never left bis post, thcvo might have been another Artie calamity to record. .,..>?*■ -*^-^'^"-' ?'V)' ^'^►1 GATE MADE FROM THE JAW-BOXES OF A WnAT-E. About nine o'clock we could see Sanliro light and in another hour were steaming past it on our way into the harbor of Halifax. Our visit lasted much longer than we expected in consequence of some uiiavoi(lal)lc delay. We made the best use of our time however, and l)efGre leaving saw a considerable portion of the city. T^ike true Yankees the moment our ship touched the wharf we jumped ashore and were pursuing our investigations in every quarter. We scattered ourselves over the city in I, 18 X T R I I' TO N E W F O U X n I- A N T> evci7 (lireetion, cnji^agcd all the carriao-os wo could find aii.l in a ride of a few hours obtained a tolerably dear idea of its charaeter and condition. Some of our party visited the Boscawen, the flag'-ship of Admiral Fan- shaw of the 15rilish Navy, others took a boat and passed a portion of tlieir time rowing al)0ut the harbor, while others, made their way into the fort where they were entertained with much courtesy by two of the oflPi- cers. A rather amusing incident occurred during our visit to the fort, which it may not be out of place to relate here. Three or four of our friends who were in advance of us had obtained admission through the kindness of one of the officers who happened to be at the entrance when tliey drove up, and were on the ramparts when we made our appearance. The moment they saw us, one of the party called out in a stentorian voice and invited us to come iii. " Come right in," said he ; " no trouble at all ; just drive through the gate," Supposing that was all we had to do, we told the driver to go ahead, hut just as we got to the entrance, the sentry demanded our pass, and as we could not j)roduce the required document, he obstinately persisted in refusing us admission, " Oh, step right in," exdahued our friend above ; " don't nihid him — that's all right — come in.'- We made another effort, but the soldier placed his musket across our })i)th, and as the matter now })rescnted a somewhat serious aspect, we de- sisted in our atteuipts. Our friend on the rampart was rather dissatisfied, and sti^l continued his entreaties not to " mind him, but to drive right in." In accordance with tlie advice of another soldier, we obtained the recjuired ticket of admission from the Town Major, and passed the sentry without furtlier trouble, much to the gratification of our friend, who after- :\ A TRIP TO N K W F () i; N I) r. A N D 19 liAUBOR OF TOUT AU rASQUE. wards told us that lie would have got into the fort m spite of " that fol- low with the rod coat." As many of us could not return to the vessel in time for diimor, we went into one of the first hotels in the city and <;'ave orders to the land- lord to prepare it for us. " Well gentlemen," said he, " what can I do for you ? '' " "We want some dinner," replied one of our party. " Dinner isn't ready yet, and won't ho ready for two hours." " Ah yes. "Well then you can let ns have a beef steak, or a mutton chop, or anyiliing of that kind." " Very sorry, sir," replied the landlord with a gracious smile, " very sorry, l)ut there is nothing of that kind till diimer is ready. Let me see," he added, and his eyes brightened up as if he liad l)e('n struck by a happy idea — " let me see — yea — oh bless my soul ! yes ; I nearly forgot — what was 1 thinking about ? Yes, gentlemen, I can let you have some cheese and ale." "We expected from his enthusiastic manner that he would wind up by inrorming us that he had a cold roast turkey, or duck, or joint of beef, but when his enthusiasm reached its climax and we found that it had no ii 20 A TRIP TO N' K W F O U N D L A N D . ,1 n iK 1 I r better l)iisis to rest upon than cheese and ale, \vc left in disjrnst and with a hearty wish that wc were in New York again, if it were only for half Ml hour. In this dilemma we went into the first confectionary wc could And, and in lieu of something more substantial, regaled ourselves on cakes and ice-cream. As we had but little time to si^are, these were dispatched in a hurry, and one of our number proceeded with equal haste to pay the keeper of the store. " What is this ? " she inquired taking up a five dollar piece that lie had tlu'own on the counter." " Five dollars,'' he answered, " Dear me, yes, I should certainly have known it. Xow, sir, I'll get you your change." And calling one of her assistants told her to run up stairs and get all the silver she could find. " Xow sir," she added turning to him, I shall give you your change in a few miiuites." About five minutes after the assistant came into the store with both hands full of silver, and told her that was all the change to be found. It took at least five minutes more to count it and when that arduous task was accomplished she divided the silver into three piles, one of which we no- ticed was considerably smaller than the other two. " Xow, sir," she said, calling his attention to the money with the air of a juggler about to perform some wonderful feat of necromancy — " X'ow it's all right — now youll see. This," she continued, iiointing to one of the piles, " is for the ice-cream and cakes, and this," pointing to another, " is for me, and that," pushing the third and smallest })ile towards our friend, " is for you." We were unable to discover by what right she claimed a portion for A TRIP TO N E W FO U N I) L A N I> 21 KNTRANCK TO ST. JOHN S, N. K herself apart from that paid for the ice cream and eakes, and cmleavored to ar-ue the matter with her, but finding it impossible to arrive at any un- derstandino- we k'ft with the determination not to indulge any more ni such expensive luxuries in Halifax. Our experience here, however, put us a little more on the alert, and we resolved that it would be the last imposition. An opportunity soon offered of puttin- our resolution to the test. Three or four of our company had en-a.ved a carriage to drive them round the city, and did not perceive till sonie time after they got into it that the liorse could with difficulty drag himself along, not to speak of the vehicle. As they were going up the lull on which the fort was situated, they were obliged to get out and push both horse and carriage before them, which they succeeded in doing after fifteen minutes hard work. But if the horse was unable to go up the hill, he went down it with a speed that was a.tj'thing but pleasant, and exhibited such a strong desire to run into holes and gullies that the passengers often wished r 00 A TRIP T O N' E W F U \ I, AND, ill themselves safe at the bottom. For this perilous ri(U! tlie driver asked five doUars, althougli he had not been more tliau an liour emi)loyed. Our fel- low-passenj^^ers thought this rather too mueli for tlie privik'ge of push- ing a horse and carriage up a hill, aiil they concluded not to pay any- thing till the driver became a little more reasonable in his demands. As he insisted, however, on being paid five dollars, and as they were unwilling to ))e imi)Osed upon, the case was brought before a magistrate who fined hiin for his dishonesty. The people, as we have said, were not a little astonished at the pecu- liarities of the Yankees, and they certainly had cause for astonishment. We had hardly entered the dock before half a dozen lines were thrown over the stern and sides of our vessel, and as many of our passengers were busily engaged in fishing. Among these, too, unaccountable as it might appear to the natives, was a man whose fame has extended all over the civilized world, and who already occupies a position in history beside the greatest scientific discoverers of all nations. There, with his son, a bright little boy of seven or eight years, he amused himself catching fish, in which it may be gratifying to his friends to know that he was most successful, as the large number which lay beside him on the deck afforded abundant evi- dence. The Halifaxians do not possess a superabundance of energy or en- terprize, and enthusiasm seems to be a (juality of which they are utterly destitute. In fact from what we saw of theni they appear to be too phleg- matic to take an active interest in anything, and it was only with the great- est eftbrt that they succeeded in raising three cheers for us at our depar- ture. It is said that they actually commenced a railroad from their city \vithout the slightest idea as to where it should terminate, and the work remains unfinished up to the present time. When our vessel reached the dock we found about a hundred persons assembled on the pier who gazed at us with the most listless curiosity, and as we looked at them we could A TRir TO N K W F •» l' X n I, A N r 23 VIEW OF ST. John's from topsail koad. not help contrasting tliem with the citizens of tlie great metropolis we had left. Had a vessel arrived at New York under similar circumstances one half its population would have crowtled to see it. Everything seemed to be at least half a century behind the age. The city itself had a most deso- late, wo-begone aspect, and looked as if two-thirds of its inhabitants had gone to sleep. It would be difficult to account in any other way for the deserted appearance of the streets, as its population is set down at twenty- five thousand. The piers, which are constructed on piles like those in our own city, had the same deserted look ; the warehouses along the wharves were generally closed, and even the dwellings seemed to be uninhabited. All the children we saw appeared to be in the greatest affliction, and were crying as if their little hearts would break. The houses too, as a general thing, have a rather uninviting appearance, and although we found many of them open, we were never strongly tempted to enter them. They are • 24 A TRIP TO X i; W F U N D L A N D . very old fashioned, are constructed mostly of wood, and are particularly re- markable for the great height of their roofs. In fact, some of them ap- pear to be all roof, so entirely out of proportion does this part of them seem, in comparison with the walls. There are, however, two or three respectable looking public edifices, among which may be mentioned the Province Building, in which is the Hall of Representatives, constituting the House of Delegites and the Legislative Council Chamber, In the lat- ter apartment are full length portraits of George II,, George III., Wil- liam TV., Queen Caroline, Queen Charlotte, Judge Blower and Chief Jus- tice Haliburton, all of which, with one or two exceptions, are well painted. This edifice is built of a rich l)rown, close grained sandstone, and in the Ionic order of architecture, with a douljle front, each facing one of the lateral streets. The whole edifice has an extent of one hundred and forty feet by seventy, and is aliout seventy feet in height. The chambers in which Ijoth branches of the Legislature assemble arc much inferior to those in which the Common Council of New York hold their meetings, and the building, as a whole, is unworthy of comparison with the City Hall. The harbor, of which the Nova Scotians feel justly proud, is one of the finest in the world, and is capable of floating the largest vessels of war. A large islai.d, called after its owner, Mr. McNab, protects the entrance from the v.-aves of the ocean, which, during storms, break with resistless force upon its shores. St. George's is the name of another, but a mucli smaller island, which lies farther up in the harbor, and which belongs to the government. It is about two miles in circumference, and its centre is occupied by a fort and a martello tower, both of which, it is said would be idone siillicicni to jn'event the passage of a hostile fleet. A short distance from this island, not more than half a mile at the farthest, stands the city, on the side of a hill, commanding a magnificent view of A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND, or, the harbor. A large and ahiiost iniprosi-imble fort has been constructed on the summit of this hill, or we '•hould rather say, is in process of con- struction, as it was not completed at the time of our visit. On the eastern shore of the harbor of Halifax, and opposite the city, is a little town called Dartmouth, with which constant communication is kept up by a small steamboat, that runs every hour or half hour between the two places. It was founded a few years after Halifax, in 1150 ; Init its inhabitants having been driven out or massacred by the Indians, it was re-built in 1184 by several families from Xantucket, wiio carried on the whale fishery there with great success. Although Halifax has a very unattractive appearance to a New Yorker, its history is full of incidents of a most interesting, and not unfre- quently of a painful character. The horrible and unjustifiable expatri- ation of the Acadians, which is described in such glowing language by Bancroft, has given to it, in common with other parts of Xova Scotia, an undying interest. Ten thousand were driven into exile, and those who refused to leave their homes and who escaped from their oppressors, had their dwellings and even their houses of worship burned before their eyes. We saw while here several negroes who appeared to Ije on terms of perfect equality with the white population, that is, of course, with persons in tlu'ir own condition of life. Tliose who have settleil in Xova Scotia are I)rincii)ally from the United States, with a few from the West Indies. During our war with England, Sir Alexiinder Cochrane, who was in con>- mand of the British squadron, brought away a great many negroes with him, from Maryland and Virginia, after ravaging the shores of the Chesa- peake. These were made free on tlicir arrival at Xova Scotia, altliough Judging from the condition of many I saw, tlieir change from a state of servitude to that of British freetlora did not inq^'ove them much. 26 A T R I r TO N K \V F U N I) L A N D , About half past seven o'clock, in ti.'^ afternoon of tlie name day we arrived, we left Halifax, after giving the few who were on the pier three cheers twice repeated, and winding up with a New York " tiger." We succeeded in infusing something like enthusiasm into the people, wlio responded with more heart than we gave them credit for possessing. In less than two hours we were again out on the open sea, and making our way to Port au Basque where we expected to find the cable-ship, Sarah L. Bryant. CATHOLIC OATllKDRAL, ST. JOHNS. CHAPTI]R Til. ]WWi iiij?lit of our dopartiiro from Tliilifax was tlie finest \vc ^ had since we loft Now York, There wa.s liardly a ripph" on the bosom of the ocean in whicli the twinklino- lij^-lit of myriads of stars was reflected as in a vast mirror. ]\rcteors of won- (h'ons l)riinancy shot athwart the lieavens, leaviiiu' behind thiMn a k)icjr train of li^-ht that dimmed the pah; lustre of the stars. For hours we sat on the deck watchinj^ their movements, until sleep pressinj^ heavily oji our eyelids warned us that it was time to bring our astronomical obser- vations to a close. The iron bound coast of Cape Hretou was visil)le Ihroiiuliout the whole of Saturday, and as it was evident that we could not reach our place of destination before Sunday, we thought of putting into TiOuisl)urg, 28 A TRIP TO N E W F U X n L A N D which was formerly one of the finest and ino.st flourislung ports on the Island. It was bnilt by the Acadians in 1120, and was defended ))y stron<^ fortifier- tions. During the war between the English and French in 1745, it was attacked by a large force of Colonists from Massachusetts, who succeeded after a desperate struggle of forty-five days in getting it into their possession. The siege for the numbers engaged, was one of the most obstinate and bloody on record, and caused a loss of four thousand lives on both sides. The city is at present in a most ruinous condition, and as there appears to be no intention on the part of its present posses- sors, tlie English, to rebuild it, it is destined to remain in that state for the next half century at least. Early on Sunday morning, the 12th of August, we came within sight of Xewfoundland, and as may be supposed, there was considerable excite- ment on board. There it lay like a dark cloud on tlie horizon, and there were sage speculations among those who professed to be learned in nautical matters, as to whether it was really a cloud or the Island itself. Grave arguments were held on the subject always terminating, however, with the unsatisfactory conclusion of " wait and you'll see," which we all philosophically concluded to do as it was the only course left. Gradually the cloudy indistinctness of the land disappeared, and as the more prominent points of the coast became visible, not a soul could be found who did'nt believe it was real, genuine, honti fide terra firma from the very commence- ment. About live hours before we readied Fort au Basque, where it was expected we would find the Cable Ship, the bold promontory of Cape Ray, which is the extreme southwestern limit of Newfoundland, was visible from the deck of the steamer. All the telescopes on board were brought into re({uisition, opera glasses were in great demand, and those who were not so fortunate as to possess either, strained their eyes looking tliroiigh spectacles and spy glasses in the vain hope that they would see A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND, 29 something like a ship twenty miles off, and firmly believing that that ship when found would be the very one we were in search of. We could per- ceive the fishermen's huts when within a distance of eight or ten miles, but no vessel except a few fishing smacks greeted our anxious gaze. It was suggested that as a portion of the harbor was hidden from the view by liigh rocks she might not be visible from sea ; but even that hope was dispelled when we arrived at its entrance. Two schooners were lying at anchor there, but the cable-ship had not madfi her appearance although they were expecting her arrival over two weeks. A vessel was seen on the morning of Saturday answering to the description of our ship standing off Port au Basque ; it was blowing so hard however, and the wind was so adverse that she was obliged to put to sea again. This was a great disappointment as the weather was most favorable for the laying of the cable and, as we intended to l)egin work at the earliest hour on Monday morning. Tu this dilemma we could do nothing but either await the arrival of the Sarah L. Bryant, or go direct to St. John's which we intended to visit Ijefore our return to New York, })ay our respects while there to the authorities of Xewfoundland, and after a brief stay, call at Port au Basque again where it was confidently expected we would find the object of our search if she had not foundered at sea. We lay outside the harbor three or four hours to land some articles which were required in the construction of the telegraph at that point. Some of the members of the Company went ashore where they were met by Mr. Canning, au experienced engineer from Loudon, who was engaged to superintend the laying of the cable. He confirmed what we had heard about a vessel having been seen oft' the coast the day before. As our stay here was very brief, and as nniny of us only saw tlie land from the deck of our steamer, we could form no correct idea of its charac- ter. It had a wild, bleak and inhospitable look, however, and the account 30 A TRIP TO \ K \V F O U N I) I, A N D . that our pilot, who had visited it frequently, gave us of it was anything but pleasing. It was, he said, nothing but rock and bog, interspersed here and there with deep holes and quagmires, into which, he jokingly informed us, it would be much easier to get than to come out. But after all, the majestic hills that towered to the height of fifteen hundred feet above the ocean, the huge masses of rocks that lined the coast, and the restless sea whose waves broke in foam at their feet imparted to the scene a sublimity that all the bogs, and quagmires, and holes could not affect. Our pilot, too, told us strange stories and incidents of the place which gave it an ad- ditional interest in our eyes. As might be supposed from the name, it was colonized by the French, and although now in possession of the English, it still retains some traces of its French origin. One of the stories related by our pilot, is so romantic, that we feel certain our readers will justify us in giving it a place here. We must premise, however, that it was given to us not merely as a romance, but a matter of history, and that there are many living in France who can testify to the particulars, al- though it is to be regretted that the exact locality where they live hf.s not been made known to us. Although not told in the very words of our informant, we have endeavored to set forth the fixcts, circumstances, and incidents with a due respect to historical accuracy. When the Revolution of 1789 swept over France, scattering its noblest families on every side hke withered leaves l)efore the breath of autumn, there came to Port an Basque a French emlgrd accompanied by his wife and child. What could have induced them to take up their abode on that inhospitable shore, was a matter of wondering conjecture to the simple- minded fishermen who dwelt tliere, for Monsieur de Saint Maur had no occupation ; he neither made nor mended nets, nor built boats, no.- Mught fish ; in short, he was supremely ignorant of all the little arts that in their opuion, made up the sum of earthly knowledge. But as weeks and A TRIP TO N E W FO L' X I) L A X II. til '^ _,— - GOVERNMENT HOUSE, ST. JOHNS. months passed over, the surprise excited by the first appearance of the strangers deepened into interest, and the kindness of Madame de Saint Manr and the beauty and childish grace of little Adele were the theme of all, and won the hearts of the unsophisticated people among whom they lived. Dearly did the little girl love these kind-hearted and simple- minded people ; but the wild and desolate character of Port au Bas- que, its barren soil on which a few hardy wild flov/ers struggled to exist, and the sullen roar of the mighty ocean that broke in foam along the rock-bound shore, made her pine for the sunny skies and vine-clad hills of her own l)eloved France. Often of a summer's eve would Monsieur de Saint Maur take his child on his knee, and, pointing eastward, tell her stories of the land they loved, yet left ; of its historic glories and its genial, gay and gallant people. How vividly were those evenings remembered in after years when the fatiier who had dwelt so fondly on his theme, and the mother who sighed and smiled while she listened, had passed away from earth. Fortunately for Adele before that melancholy event occurred, a friend 32 A TUIP TO NEWFOUNnLAND. '■i nnd compatriot of licr futlier settled in Port au Basque, and to liis care Monsieur de Saint Maur when dying confided his beloved child. Never was confidence better placed ; and in time Adele transferred the love she had felt for her father to him who was father, friend, instructor, all in one. Fresh and beauteous *' as the morning rose when the dew wets its leaves," she grew up in that humble cottage by the sea side, lier monotonous life chequered by no incident more exciting than the annual return of the fish- ing season. One morning the fleet of boats had just put out to sea, and Adele sat watching them till the last had disappeared beyond the entrance of the harbor. The sea was calm and unruffled, the sky bright overhead, and where the slanting sunlight fell, the water slione and sparkled in liquid efl'iilgence. It was a day of hap})y omen, and the fishermen's wives turned from the beach to attend to their houseliold duties with happy hearts ; but ere the sun went dow,: the aspect of the heavens underwent a total change ; the sky became overcast, heavy masses of black clouds loomed above tlie horizon while others torn in fragments were swept like mist be- fore the wind. During the night the storm increased in violence, and to add to the horrors of the scene there was heard amid the pauses of the wind a signal gun — the passing bell of some ill-fated vessel. There was no one in the village to give assistance had it been practicable, and the vessel unable to withstand the fury of the storm, went to pieces, only two of the passengers escaping with their lives. They were washed on shore in an exhausted condition and owed their lives to the perseverance of Monsieur Blanc, Adele's guardian, who continued his exertions after others had given up in des])air. Tile two men saved from the wreck were father and son, members of a a ble French family, the father bound on a mission of diplomacy to the i A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND, 33 United States, the son a distinf^uished officer in Napoleon's army. Mon- sieur Blanc had them conveyed to his own residence, and tliere, thanks to Adele's unremitting- care, they soon recovered. Wiiile the eniig-re of '87 listened with insatiable avidity to the marvels told him by the diploma- tist of the Consulate of which only the broken echo had reached his place of refuge, the young soldier related to Adele stories of the Italian cam- paign, and dwelt with enthusiasm on the mingled peril and glory of a sol- dier's career. The "dullest elf" can imagine what followed, and if he cannot we refer him to Othello. Enough for us to say that not many weeks after the wreck there were tears and lamentations throughout the village, for Adele de Saint Maur, the Rose of the sea side, the Pride of Port au Basque, became the bride of the French officer, and accompanied by her faithful guardian, sailed for the land of her birth. The romantic story of the Saint Maur family it is needless to say was listened to with rapt attention, and all who heard it felt a renewed interest in Port au Basque, unattractive as it appeared from the account given by our pilot. r'l III BELLEISLE, N. F. CHAPTER IV. 3^ greater portion of the soutliern coast of Newfonndland was visible from the deck of our steamer during nearly the '^'^ wliole period of our passage from Port an Basque to St. Johns. The character of the coast scenery was the same tlironghont, presenting to the eye of the voyager nothing but bold rugged cliffs, which in some places rose precipitously out of the water to the height of three or four hundred feet. On the morning of the 14th of August, about seven o'clock, we were within a few miles of our Dlace of destination. Every body was up early, for we had heard so much of the harbor of St. Johns and the approach to it, that we determined to see all that was to be seen. ' r.» A T R I 1' TO N E W F U N D L A ^ D . 35 The moriiinp^ of our arrival, iinfortmuitely was rainy td, us n 7 he supposed, the city did not appear to tlie best advantage ; hut the gran- deur of the surrounding scenery, and especially that of the coast more than made up for the annoyance we felt in consequence of the weather. The island is protected on the east by the same bold mountainous line of coast which we had observed all along its southern extremity. Steep rocks rise to the height of seven and eight hundred feet almost perpendicu- lar out of the water which is so deep that the largest vessel might pass alongside within a few feet with perfect safety. In some places their front is scarred by deep seams which extend from their very summits, not unfre- qucntly terminating in huge caves at their base. We felt the strongest curiosity to enter some of these, and make explorations in their hidden recesses, but had no opportunity of doing so, and were obliged to leave without gratifying our desire. They were just such caves as we had read of long ago in our days of novel reading, recalling to mind the thrilling adventures of pirates and smugglers, with their long, low, black schooners. We invested them with the most romantic interest, and endeavored to convert the small sloops which dotted the sea iuto those rakish looking crafts ; but it was useless ; the picture soon faded before the reality, and we found it impossil}le to transform the humble, honest and simple-hearted fishermen into the reckless, cut-throat buccaneer. Instead of the black flag, with the death's head and cross bones, there was the Union Jack, the unmistakable emblem of England's sovereignty. It seemed so strange, too, that it, instead of the stars and stripes, should be there ; for in the forgetfulness of the moment, we supposed we were still under the broad l)inion of the American eagle, and that Newfoundland was only a distant part of our own republic. The entrance to the harbor of St. Johns is so concealed from the view at sea that we could not perceive it till within a distance of half a 36 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND, mile. On the right rises Signal Hill, to a height of at least six hundred feet, overlooking the town, and commanding a fine view of the country, which extends l)ehind it like a gigantic panorama. The summit of this hill is crowned with a fortification, and at its base is another, neither of which, in their present condition, would be capable of resisting a well sus- tained attack by sea and land. The entrance or Narrows, as it is called, is, however, well defended by other forts, and in the last war it was pro- tected by an immense iron chain extending across and fastened to the rocks on either side. The marks left by drilling holes in the rocks are still visible, as are also the remains of an old cannon and anchor which had served as holdfasts for the chain. Opposite Signal Hill, on the other side of the Narrows, rises another hill, or mountain as it should more properly be termed, to an elevation above the level of the water of over six hundred feet. On the other side of this, and about one hundred and fifty feet from its base, another fort has been erected, in the centre of which stands the lighthouse. While passing this point we were hailed by a soldier, who inquired where we were from, and how many days we were out, and hav- ing answered him, we gave the good people of St. Johns notice of our approach with a thundering salute that was repeated a hundred times by the echoing hills. The Narrows is about a third of a mile in length, while it varies in width from three to fifteen hundred yards, and was doubtless formed in one of those terrible convulsions to which the whole island seems to have been subjected, and to which it proba])ly owes its origin. It ap- peared as if the mountain had been torn ajiart, leaving a safe passage open to the harbor, where, even in the most violent storms, the waters are hardly ever agitated above a ripple. The city is built on the side of a hill, which ascends gradually to a height of about a hmidred and fifty feet, and presents an exceedingly picturesque appearance. It overlooks the harbor, which is a little over a mile in length, and a quarter of a mile in A TRIl' TO NEWFOUNDLAND, 3T widlli ; and wliich is one of the best luirbors in the worhl, affordlnj^ at all times a safe ancliorage for ships of the hirjijest dimensions. The first thing thut strikes the visitor is its peculiar formation. After you have passed tl ' entrance it has the appearance of a lake, so completely is it shut in from the ocean. Gigantic hills tower above you on every side, except that on which the city stands, and on their rough and rugged declivities little patches of gardens have been made by the more hidustrious of the fisher- men, whose little cottages help to subdue the natural wildness of the scene. Near the water's edge, and all around the harbor, are erected the stages or " flakes" as they are termed, on which the codfish are cured. The town of St. Johns has no public buildings that can lay claim to architectural pretensions, with the exceptions of the Catholic Cathedral, which is a large and imposing edifice, built in the style of the Roman Basilica, and capable of holding ten thousand persons, or little less than half the population of the whole city. It cost about five hundred thou- sand dollars, and has several very fine pieces of sculpture, among which are two or three of the best p''oductions of Hogan, the celebrated Irish sculptor. The Colonial Building, as the structure in which the legislative business of the Island is transacted is called, was built a few years ago at an expense of about two hundred thousand dollars. It is a square granite building, two stories high, with a large portico in front, supported by six Ionic pillars. It contains the chambers of the two legislative branches, the House of Assembly and the Legislative Council, besides the library, and a number of smaller apartments. A short distance from the Colonial Building is the Governor's house, in which Ciias. II. Darling, the recently appointed Governor of the Island resides. The country around St. Johns is remarkable for the diversity as well as the beauty of its scenery. In the afternoon of the day on which we arrived, a party of us enjoyed the luxury of a ride along an exquisite little valley called the Yale of River- 38 A T K II' TO X K W V () U X I) L A N D . «4: ■ la A. ^'ll head. The roads wliich branch out in every dh-cction from the city are without the least exaggeration among the finest in tlic world, and Toi)sail Road which runs along the side of one of the hills that form the boundary of this valley, affords one of the most deliglitful drives in this part of tlie country. As you ascend the more elevated parts of it you can see the whole town of St. Johns, the harbor which lies at its feet and the lofty crest of Gibbet and Signal Hills, towering in the more remote distance, beyond which the deep blue of the Atlantic is visible through the huge gaps of the coast mountains. Below you, almost at your feet, lies the Yale of Riverhead, forming in its quiet beauty a marked contrast with the wikl mountain scenery by which it is surrounded. A small stream fed by tiny rivulets from the rougli sides of the mountains pours its clear Avaters through the centre of the valley, making sweet music as it sweeps sparkling over its rocky ])ed. In some places its course is broken by miniature cascades, that glitter like a shower of diamonds in tne warm sunlight, while in others it is almost wholly concealed from the sight by overhanging trees, beneath whose shade its waters become black as midnight. It is a trout stream too — just such a one as Wilton would have delighted to angle in. Beautiful little cottages dot ics banks, and here and there may be seen, through the jealous foliage that cling around them, the more imposing mansions of the wealthier inhabitants of St. Johns. It is a lovely scene, and miglit have tempted a less ardent ad- admirer of the ])eauties of nature; tlian we professed to be to linger a few weeks among its attractions. But necessity — " stern necessity," as the poet calls it — interposes : the cable must be laid, and in a few days more the charming Valley of Riverhead will l)e lost to our view, perhajjs for- ever. One of the particular features of Newfoundhmd is its numerous lakes, and the country in the vicinity of St. Johns abounds in them. One A T R I 1' TO NEWFOUNDLAND, 39 V ■»^:^i»-ji.:-. --■ • 4. rOUTUGAL COVE. N. F. of the most jVicturcsque of these is Vii'f^hiia Water, whleh has an area of about eighty acres, and is surrounded by a dense wood of pine, spruce and other evergreens. The estate of which it forms a part, extends over a thousand acres, and belongs to the Hon. (t. II. Emerson, Solicitor General of the island, and member of the Executive and Legislative Councils, whose neat little villa is situated on its borders. These lakes are for the most part situated in the low lands, Init it is not at all unusual to find them on the tops of mountains. George's pond, which supplies the city with water, and which is a sort of natural basin in the rock, is at least four hundred feet above the sea. There is also another, called Wilmore's, which supplies the place of an artificial reservoir, and, which we were told could not be fathomed. The wnter is conveyed from both of these by pipes, and distributed over the city, Looking down from a height of between two and three hundred feet above these ponds is Signal 40 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND, Hill, whicli, as has been already stated, stands at the right of the cntrauco to the Narrows, and about half a mile farther in from the sea frowns tlu' bleak eonc called Gibbet Illil, which owes its name to a gibbet that stood on its sununit, and upon which a nmrderer was exe(;uted many years ago. Strange wild stories are told of a human form having been seen there after the magic hour of midnight writhing in all the agonies of death from a "•allows, while the most unearthly sounds were heard. There were many who knew of this, but unfortunately the eye-witnesses were not to be found. The people of St, Johns preserve in a most remarkable degree the peculiarities and distinguishing features of their descent. Those of Irish origin are easily distinguished from the English and the Scotch by their accent, and if you were not aware of this difference you might very easily mistake the birth-place of a Xcwfoundlander, as there is nothing to distiiiguish them in this respect from the natives of Great Britain. It is the same, too, with regard to their features, which retain the distinct marks of their ancestry through two, and even three generations. In many other particulars they resemble the people of the mother country, for here, nature, or human nature, rather, appears to be governed by a diCferent law from that which prevails in the United States, where all traces of descent are generally lost in one, and certainly in two genera- tions, and all the original and distinctive marks are blended in one grand nationality. They are, with a few exceptions, very liberal in their senti- ments, and })articularly well disposed to our people, with whom they are very desirous of extending their present limited commercial intercourse. As a means of bringing about so desirable a result, they regard the present telegraph enterprize with great confidence, and it will doubtless, if successful, be attended with the most beneficial elTects to them. Durinu- our brief stay among them our whole company had the strongest evi- dence of their hospitality and friendly feelings. It was impossible for us A TRIP TO N E W F O U N n T, A N I) . 41 to accept their numerou.s pressing invitations, tlieir lionscs, tlieir horses, tlieir carriages, were all placed at onr disposal, and when we left tlicni on our way to Fort au Basque our parting seemed like that of old and long cherished friends. Any one who has ever visited St. Johns must have observed the Ini-ue number of Xcwfoundland dogs with which its streets are beset at all hours of the night and day. You meet them wherever you go ; thev lie riu'lit across 'Jie pathway, and sometimes make their beds in the middle of the road ; they stand like sentinels at every door, and, although they never dispute your passage, they look at you with an inquiring icv/.Q as if thry desired to know your business. Tn winter they are employed bv the poor in drawing wood in sledges for which kind of labor they seem peculiarlv adapted by their strength and docility. Of their sagncity the most won- derful stories are told, and as might be snpj)Osed, wc heard mnny during our visit at St. Johns. Some of these were evidently intended to test the credulity of the hearer, and are deserving of a i)lace among the most astounding of Munchausens inventions. Speaking one day to an old fisherman ibout the sagacity of a gigantic specimen of the fine breed which he owned, ho launched forth in the most enthusiastic eulogy of his many good qualities, " I never," said he, "seed such an animal. lie beats any dog ever I com'd across all hollow, and as for kScusc, why I tell you he's got more than many Christians I have heerd on. If I was to tell you some things al)0ut that fellow," he continued, looking down at the dog which stood beside him. a patti •ly believe me. Would they Sailor ?" he said, addressing the animal which looked up in his face with nn could say, " I'm of your opi pression nion exat' that seemed to say as well as dot 'tly. \ I Well, gentlemen," proceeded the worthy fisherman, "you needn't 11 42 A TRIP TO X K W F U X D T. A X D , believe me, but it's the trutli I'm telliii'— tliat do,t? 'ill wake me np any lionr of the morning that I tell him, and if I don't get up he'll pull me out of the bed." " Pull you out of the bed !" said one of our party, with a smile of incredulity. " Yes, sir, he'll pull me out of th bed, and he's often done it afore now. But that's not all, gentlemen, that dog has gone a-fishin' just as nat'ral as any human bein'." " Gone a fishing," we all exclaimed with one voice. " Yes, gentlemen, gone a-fishin' ; and as I said afore, you needn't believe it if you don't like." For the privilege which he gave us of doubting his word, we were of courne duly thankful, and having expressed our utmost confidence in himself and respect for the wonderful accomplishments of " Sailor'' we requested with a proper feeling of reverence for both, to 1)e enlightened upon the particular qualifications of the animal. " Why, you see, I tell you how he does. lie gets the line and after he baits the hooks he fastens one end of it on the shore and swims out with the other end some distance ; then he drops it in the water. When he's done this he gets a piece of the line in his mouth and as soon as he f(K»ls the fish a-bitin' he gives it a sudden jerk and then swims ashore with him." " Ah, yes, that's all v^'ry well," said one of his hearers, " but how does he get the hook out ?" " Well, you see he never lets the fish swallow the hook, and to pre- vent him from doin' so he catches him on the very first nibble. Oh, he's a cumiin' fellow, I tell you, gentlemen. Why, if I was to t(>ll you every- thin' about him," he ssiid, "you wouldn't believe me no more'n I was tcllin' you a pack of lies." A TRIP TO N'EWFOUNDLAND, 43 COD-FISniNG OFF ST. JOHNS. We assured him we had every confidence in his veracity, adding that there was no reason why we should not, as we had some dogs in the United States whicli were tauglit the dumb alpliabet. This was about as far as a proper regard for truth would allow us to go, but the reputation of our country was at stake, and we were determined that its powers of " invention" should be fully sustained. Wliile in St. Johns a perfect dog mania broke out among our com- pany, and an extensive trade in pups was opened with the natives. It had been reported about the city that the Yankees were buying up all the dogs they could see, and the consequence was that from morning till night the pier, alongside of which of our steamer lay, was crowded from moj'u till niffht with bovs and men, each of whom had from one to five or six pups and dogs of all sizes and ages. During the four days of our 44 A TRIP TO y K w F o r V n I, A N n , visit a rcffular doo; market was .^stablislicd l)esi(le the vossp] to which the country people came from miles around to dispose of tlieir canine stock. As we have said, a perfect do^ mania broke out among our passen- ji'crs, and al)ont forty from a month to three years old were carried off unresistinii' victims into exile. Whatever doubt there mi 4G A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. cultiiral pursuits while fishing continues more hicrative. The settlement of the interior of the country is, therefore, of such slow protrress and the central i)ortions of the Island arc so little known that they have not as yet been accurately mapped out, and are traversed only by tribes of wan- dering Mic-Mac Indians. Various reports have been circulated regard- ing its great mineral wealth, but mining operations have so far been car- ried on to such a very limited extent that no reliable information can be obtained upon the sul)ject. Its peculiar geological formation as well as the partial explorations that have been made, would seem to favor the truth of such reports, and it is a well ascertained fact that coal, copper, iron and silver have been found in many places. The success of the pres- ent telegraph enterprize must eventually open up the resources of the country and present it in another character to the world than that of a mere fishing station, but while it remains in its present condition as a de- pendency of England its progress Avill always be retarded. For the proof of this assertion we need only direct the attention of the reader to Canada, which stands out in such marked contrast with the United States, a con ■ trast which every impartial person must admit is attributable mainly to the difference existing in their forms of government. The day that sees the bond of Union between Newfoundland and the Mother Country sev- ered will be one of the brightest i'.i the liistory of that island. At present, as we have said, the most lucrative occupation of the people is fishing, and such are the profits realized by the merchants that it is nothing unusual for them to make in the course of a single season over one hundred thousand dollars by the seal and codfisheries. Some idea may be formed of the extent to wliich they are carried on from the fact that the yearly product amounts to thirteen millions. It must be observed, however, that cod is not the only fish caught along the shores, but that herring are taken in such abundance that they promise at some A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND, 41 future day to form the principal article of export. Salmon is also very plenty, and the lakes and rivers swarm with trout. There appears to V)e no limit to the supply ; the whole ocean around the coast teems with fish which become an easy prey even to the most inexpert. Talk of the gold mines of California ! They cannot compare with the inexhaustible wealth of the fisheries of Newfoundland. No wonder that the English struggled so hard to exclude others from sliaring it with them, when the monopoly of the commerce it creates would give them the whole world for a market. However, in spite o' all the restrictions which they have placed upon other nations to prevent them from participating in the fisheries, they have not as yet succeeded in driving either the French or our own countrymen from that field of enterprize, and although they enjoy all the advantage which almost sole possession of the country gives them, the annual receipts are pretty equally divided, as may be seen from the following proportions : French, $4,500,000 ; English, $4,500,000 ; American, $4,000,000. The French, also own a portion of the coast, and to this more than to their superior enterprize, is owing the difference in the yearly amounts realized by them and the English as compared with the Americans. It might naturally be supposed that St. Johns, which is the resi- dence of the fish merchants, and from which a large proportion of the whole product of the island is exported, would be one of the richest cities in the British Provinces, but this is far from being the case, hardly one- fourth the amount realized being expended there. In this respect it is subject to the evils of the Colonial system of England which drains its dependencies of their substance and vitality for the support of its own aristocracy and royalty. The merchants are chiefly of English birth, and as the island has no attractions for them, it is only tolerable on account of the means it affords of acquiring the wealth whereby they are enabled to live in luxury and magnificence at home. They have no sympathies in I If # &■> V \i' m 48 A T lU r TO NEWFOUNDLAND, In common with the poor fisliermen by whose hibor tliey aocnmnlate priiiooly fortunes, and wlio are made the subject of the most shameful imposition. But if the mercliants arc exacting and unfair in tlieir dcalinj,^s witli tlie fishermen the latter are, it must be acknowledged, indebted to their own improvidence and want of self-reliance for this. They are generous, it is said, to a foult, and too often improvident in the disposition of their means, so that they are almost always at the mercy of the merchants who pur- chase their fish at the lowest possible price. But although the price they receive is small in proportion to the amount realized by the merchants, they can save, if at all expert, during a favorable season enough to support themselves and families for the whole year. But the money which is so easily made is as rapidly spent, and long before the end of the year they are dependent upon the merchant for the necessaries of life, which their helpless condition compels them to take, although furnished at an exorbitant rate. Although naturally desirous of a change which would give thOm better customers, the poor fishermen do not seem to possess the energy, the self-reliance, nor the economy necessary to bring such a revolution about. They are all favorable to our countrymen of whose lil^crality they have the most enlarged ideas, and they frequently express the hope that they will at no distant day become the sole purchasers of their fish. It is well, however, to say here to those who may desire to embark in this business that they must place themselves in the same position towards the fishermen that the resident merchants of St. Johns occupy, and that they should either live in that city or have trust-worthy agents there for the transaction of their business. Tlie buyer of the fish is always certain of a market, and after paying a liberal price for it he can still make a hand- some profit from his proce(>ds. We may add that when at St. Johns we A T fn I' T (» n: k v.' r o r v n i. \ \ ii 49 / CURING THE FISU. were told sevon dollars per quintal was obtainod by the morcliant, which was about one half the auiount })aid to the fisherman. Althnut!:h more reliable than seal fishinu', cod-fishinc: is still somewhat precarious, dependiii,u', as it does, to a great degree on the state of the weather and the sup})ly of herrings, which are used for ])ait. In one week an expert hand can catch twenty hundred weight ; l)ut there arc times when he cannot catch more than one-fifth thnt amount. Herrings are taken in nets near the shore in immense quantities and form one of the principal articles of exi)ort. Yery little attention was formerly paid to this branch of the Xewfoundland lisheries, but it is now gaining in import- ance, and may eventually rival if it should not exceed the Cod fisheries. The process of curing the Cod is very simple. At the close of tho day, or wheu the boats are as full as they can hold, the fish are thrown 50 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. by means of poles armed on one end with a fork, into the liouse where they are to be cured, a sketeli of which is presented in one of tlie illustra- tions. Tiiey are immediately taken by persons inside and prepared for salting while fresh. The cutter into whose hands they first fall performs the operation of cutting their throat which is done in the most scientific manner, and with an almost incredible rapidity. When he has done his work he passes the fish to the man who stands at his side, who completes the operation by taking off its head, after which he transfers it to a third person, called the splitter, who opens and extracts the backbone. The dexterity with which all this is performed is surprising and almost baffles the vision by its celerity. In this state the fish are salted, after which they are carried in small quantities on a sled out of the house, piled in stacks and allowed to remain so for a few days. They are then taken down and after being thoroughly washed are exposed on flakes to the sun. Here they lie until they are perfectly dried and are then made up in stacks for the last time preparatory to being shipped for exportation. The " flakes," as the staging or platform on which they are dried is called, are constructed of poles made of the spruce and pine which suj)port a flooring of the same material. The poles, however, instead of being f)laced close together as is the case in ordinary floorings, are laid from one to two inches apart to admit the free circulation of the air, and thus facilitate the pro- cess of drying. As we were determined on learning the practical part of fishing and of having the gratification of saying on our return that we caught cod off the coast of IS'ewfoundland we hired a boat early one morning, engag- ed the services of a couple of fishermen, and having provided ourselves with everything necessary took leave of our ship resolved to astonish our fellow-passengers with the proofs of our piscatorial skill. One of our party, who was an amateur in the fishing line, had been boasting of his A TRIP TO X E W F U \ n I- A X n , 51 wonderful exploits and of what lie could accomplish if he once had a line in his hand. He was nn fait in evevythinn- about it from the harpooninj:^ of a whale to the hooking- of a trout, and it was but natural to suppose that we should defer to his superior judj^raent. He was in fact the head, the prime mover in the excursion of that day, and we all regarded him with feelings of the highest respect. This was increased still more by the learned manner in which he discoursed with one of the fishermen about things piscatorial, and the air of authority he assumed when fish were spoken of in his presence, and it is a fact related of him by one of his greatest admirers, that he went into a long disquisition upon the many varieties of the finny tribe npou hearing the word "scales" spoken of in his presence by a Dutch grocer. We felt that with him we could do everything, without him nothing, and our annoyance can therefore be well iningined when just as we were prepared to start he was not to be seen. We looked for him everywhere, our party appointed themselves a com- mittee of investigation and with a diligence and perseverance worthy of the highest praise they searched for him in every hole and corner of the vessel where it was possible for a human body tu be stowed ; all their efforts however were unsuccessful, and they were abo^^t giving up the search when to our infinite delight and surprise he made his appearance. At first we could with difficulty recognize him he had undergone such a transformation, but we soon became satisfied of his identity by one of our party saying something about " bait," when he proceeded with his usual volubility to descant upon his favorite topic. This was enough, we felt renewed confidence under his guidance and everything being ready we pre- pared to start in earnest. The rope which held us to the pier was unfast- ened, and with a cheer which was answered by those wlio remained on the deck of the steamer, we took leave of our friends ashore with the exultant feelings of men certain of success. Our confidence in three of the mem- 1 i I.- ;. 1 A TRIP T O N K W !•' O I' N D L A N l> . hers of our party was, we must confess, a little shaken, l)y the discovery tliat they had l)Ou<>:ht clothes lines, instead of fishin<>; lines, and that their hooks were nothinji; but coniniou hold-fasts. We felt that their ignorance had been taken advantag-e of by some "smart" fellow in St. Johns, and that they had been mercilessly victimized. We promised in compassion for them not to say a word about it to their friends, but in shame we nuist acknowledge, that our love of ridicule got the better of us and as many had done before, we sacrificed our friendship for a joke. When the excitement produced by this discovery had somewhat subsided, we all eagerly in{(uired of our leader what had become of him and the cause of the remarkable change wc observed iu his appearance. "Look at me," said he—" look at me from head to foot ;" with a smile of satisfaction he vainly endeavored to suppress out of respect for lu's own au thority, We did as desired, and found that the change was produced 1 huge pair of canvass overalls and a jiicket of the same material. by " You see," he said, when we had fmished oui' insi)ection of him, " I am always properly prei)ared and provided when I go on a fishing excursion." And he turned towards our friends of the clothes lines with a look leriiig contempt for the disgnce they had inflicted on the luirty f wit We felt their shame so keenly that if he hud ordered us to throw tlicni overboiird we would have done so without the shghtest hesitation out of igs. Tlie C()ntemi)tuous exiu'cssion, however, respect for his wounded feelin soon passed off his features which now 1 infl )egan to brighten under the intent nee of u coming ioke. " Yes," he proceeded, " while you were waiting [ was ju'oviding myself with these articles, and it was with the greatest difliculty 1 could procure them." T 15 IT' TO \ n ^\• y o r- \ n i, a \ n 53 A FISH ir.AKi;. " TIow was tliat ?" inquired one of the fishermen. " I always tlioii: the sinker, if you woukl know when the fisli are at the bait. Our return to the ship was like an ovation ; we exhibited our prize with all the pride of conquerors and for several days afterwards there Wiis nothing heard on board the steamer but stories of our wonderful fishin": exploits. We had cod for breakfast, cod for dinner, and cod for tea ; we never wearied of cod — it was in our thoughts by day and our dreams by night ; nobody dared to mention the fish in the presence of any one of us, if he was not prepared to hear the account of our adventure over again perhai)s for the twentieth time, and with numerous additions and improvements. Our fishing excursion off St. Johns will long be remem- bered l)y the passengers of the James Adger and ])articularly by those who were participators in the sports of that memorable day. M'^^y-*^--^ '<'-»3' STACKING Tin; COD. ij)J % CHATTER VI. ^S)) "aTo (]J©]HIlf i as wo have stated is tlie principal fish depot on Vt^ the south-eastern part of the ishind, and is the resideuee of tlie wealthiest increhants ; but there are a large iiuiid)er of lishinj^ towns and villajres in its vicinity. Anion"; these is the romantic and picturesque village of Quidi Vidi which had at the time of our visit a i)0})ulation of about four hundred. As it is not more than a mile and a half from St. Johns it is a place of almost constant resort, for the peo- ple regard it as a sort of natural curiosity and always s})eak of it to strangers as such. Its houses are of the i)Oorest description, hardly all'ord- ing a protection against the inclemency of the weather ; but those who inhabit them are a healthy, strong and hardy race for whom the elements seem to have no terrors. Tlie inirbor is about six hundred yards in length, between two and ; ■ 58 A TRIP TO N K W F O U X D L A N D , three hundred feet wide, and is surrounded hy steep hills, which rise to a height of four hundred feet above the level of the sea. The entrance from the sea is through a deep cut in tiie mountain, and the channel or passage is only wide enough for fishing smacks. Here, while the storm rages with terrible fury without, and the whole coast is lined with breakers that dash the spray half way up the bleak sides of the mountain barrier, everything is at rest, so completely is it sheltered from the elements. Here, too, in this quiet little village, shut out from all knowledge of the busy world three or four generations of men have lived and died, their chief occupation fishing for cod along the shore within two or three miles of their huts, or hunting the seal among the icebergs off the coast of Newfoundland and Labrador. Their life is oue of peril and hardships, and still, like that of the sailor, it has a strong fascination for them. When not employed in fishing or hunting the seal, a large number reside in more comfortable dwellings in St. Johns, where those who can obtain employment, work on the wharves and at other kinds of labor. Portugal Cove, a fishing station with a population of between one and two thousand, is situated about ten miles to the north of St. Johns. The road to it lies through a magnificent tract of country, diversified with all the beauties of moimtain, lake and river. We had heard a great deal about Portugal Cove ever since our arrival, and made up our minds to visit it before our departure. Having procured a wagon from Mr. Tous- saint, the gentlemanly proprietor of the Hotel de Paris, who kindly volun- teered to act as our guide, we started early in the morning, and in the course of a couple of hours reached our place of destination. Three or four miles from St. Johns we came within sight of twenty-mile pond, which is one of the finest sheets of water in this part of the island. Its shores are covered with dense woods, extending down even to the water's edge, except about half a mile of its southern extremity, where a fine A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND, 59 beach of sand and pebbles has been formed. The road extends for almost a mile along the boarders of this lake, and then leads away oft" among- the mountains, from the sides of which we occasionally caught glimpses of it, as it lay like an immense mirror, fringed by its evergreen forest. The sky looked cloudy and threatening when we started, and wo had hardly proceeded lialf-way on our journey, when the mists which had been hovering over the hills, swept down upon us in a drenching shower. It was only a shower, however, and as the mists dissolved we were more than repaid for what we suffered by the magnificent sight that bui'st upon our view. Above us, on either side of the road, towered the mountains to the height of five or six hundred feet, their sides marked by deep seams and rugged with gigantic rocks that threatened every moment to fall and sweep, like an avalanche, upon us. The valley lay beneath, rejoicing in all the verdure of summer, and fragments of mist floated over it like gos- samer webs. Here and there, at irregular intervals, inmiense boulders stood up amid woods of spruce and i)ine, their gray sunnnits forming a striking contrast with the deep green of the foilage. It is hardly neces- sary to say we enjoyed the scene, but our enjoyment was of a rather noisy character, and astonished the natives somewhat. Away we swejit, with break-neck speed, down the steep mountain sides, and dashed through tlio valley as if pursued by furies. Now we crept like snails up precipitous hills, and when we reached their summits awoke their echoes with deafen- ing cheers. We sang the praises of the bob-tailed nag in tunc and out of tune, and earnestly solicited " somebody" to bet upon the gray. The tearful Susanna was frequently requested to cease her weei)ing on our account, and the natural deficiencies of Uncle Xed were not forgotten. But, as the old adage says, it is a long lane that has no turn, and this we found to be equally true of our ride. At the end of ten miles, Portugal Cove broke suddenly upon our view as we emerged from a valley. The r ^ , ) GO A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND. Cove is ill tlic form of a crescent, and is about a mile and a half in lonu^th. Opposite to it, and at a distance of tliree miles, lies Belleislc, one of the most singularly formed islands about Newfoundland. It is about four miles long, one in width, and rises perfectly perpendicular out of the water to the height of two and three hundred feet. Portugal Cove is inhabited entirely by fishermen, and is one of the oldest settlements on the eastern coast. Although employed four or five months in the year cod fishing, their most lucrative occupation is hunting the seal. Their fishing season begins in May, and ends about the 1st of December. From December till March they have little or nothing to do, unless they feel disposed to work as laborers. On the first of March the seal hunting or fishing, as it is called, begins and continues till May. The vessels em|)loyed in the seal fisheries vary iu size from niuety to one hun- dred and sixty tons, and are protected along the bows with a sheathing of iron. These vessels are owned by individuals or companies, and are capa- ble of accommodating from twenty to seventy men, according to their size. Each of these pays eleven dollars for his berth, and at the termination of the voyage one-half the proceeds is given to the owner or owners of the vessel, and the other half eciually divided among the fishermen. The seal is found principally upon icebergs, and is cither shot or killed with a heavy pole with which it is struck on the head. The prin- cipal varieties are the harps, the hoods, the how^ks, the bedlamers, and square flippers. The square flii)pers are as large as a good sized bull, and their pelt, which includes the skin and fat, weighs from five to eight hun- dred pounds. The hoods are the most difficult to kill, as they arc very ferocious and run, or rather paddle, over the ice as fast as a man can run. When attacked with the pole, they will sometimes seize it with their teeth and fling it forty or fifty feet from them, with great force ; then turning oa the daring hunter, they force him to seek safety in flight. The harps A T K I 1* TO N E \V F () U K I) F; A X n, 01 lire considered most valiuible for tlicir fat, jiiid tlie hoods for their skins ; they are also easier killed than the hoods, and make less resistance when attacked. The fat is separated from the skin and placed in lart;'e vats, in which it is allowed to remain durinjj^ the sunnner, the heat of which converts it into oil. This is rather a slow process, bnt it is considered the l)est, as it preserves its })urity. The refuse or blubber sold for manure is said to be as g-reat a fertilizer as g-uano, and commends itself to farmers, particularly on account of its cheapness. It is sold for a iloUar a cart load, which is equal to about five barrels. In a voyap^e the seal fishers sometimes run a distance of live and six hundred miles from St. Johns, and arc absent from six weeks to two and three months. About four years ag'O a fleet of over one hundred vessels was wrecked during- one season, but the loss of life was not so serious as might have been expected. Xot more than twelve or fourteen of the fishers perished, the rest having made their escape to the land, some in their boats and some on floes of ice. A } arty of six had got on one of these and were several days in reaching the land. These casualties, how- ever, occur but seldom and are not attended with such disastrous effects as one might suppose. The seal fisheries of Newfoundland, although very precarious, are more profitable perluqjs than any other pursuit in the world — that is to those who are enabled to invest a sufficient caj)ital in them. It at present employs upwards of four hundred vessels of from eighty to two hundred tons, and fifteen thousand men, while the yearly receipts amount to about two millions of dollars. On Wednesday evening, the loth of August, a banquet was given to the public authorities of St. Johns — that is, to the members of the Executive and liCgislative Councils— for it has no municipal government. The military band of the city was in attendance, and discoursed some of ■a V. i i) m 62 A TRIP TO NEWFOUNDLAND their best music durinji: the eveniuj^. The eutertainineiit took phice in the ufter-cabiii of the James Adger, and was j^ot up in the most creditable manner. Conspicuous among the ornaments which decorated the cabin were the American and Englisii flags blended together, typifying the connection of the two nations through the agency of the electric tele- graph. About one hundred and fifty persons participated in the festiv- ities of the evening, including the company from Xevv York. Mr. Cooper presided, and Mr. Field officiated as Vice President. When the various good things had been thoroughly discussed, the cloth was removed and the speaking commenced. Now gentlemen, said ]\[r. Field, yon will please fill your glasses for the first regular toast. The retjuest was innnediately complied with, and the health of tiie Queen was drunk with three cheers. Then followed the second, " the President of the United States,'' which was received with an enthusiasm by the com})any and their guests that seemed to know no bounds. Three cheers, and such cheers as few monarchs receive, were given for the First Magistrate of the great republic, and then three more, twice repeated, followed l)y a " tiger'' that astounded the Newfonnd- l.inders. We felt il..^.t although among hospitable friends, we were in a foreign land, and that no matter what j)olitical prejudices any of ns might entertain against the President, he was still the representative of republican principles, and as such entitled to our highest respect. There were many there besides Americans, who if allowed their free choice between the two governments, would have little difficulty in making the selection. We may be mistaken, but we think there was something more than a mere compliment in the hearty response which was made to the second toast. The day may not be far distant that will see Newfound- land bound in closer connection with our republic than can be accom- plished by the electric telegraph. A TRIP TO \ K W F O T' X n L A X n , 63 Tlie whole of that eveninj^ was spent in speech nmkin^^ and toastino-, and " the wee short hours ayont the twal," arrived before the festivities were brought to a close. On Friday eveninu; the Hth, a ball was given to our company by the authorities of Xewfoundland. It took place in the Colonial Building, the rooms of which were tastefully decorated with evergreens for the occasion, and draped with the American and English flags. We had a fair opportunity of seeing the beauties of St. Johns— and they certainly realized all that has been claimed for them in personal attractions. It would be difficult to select any in particular among such a galaxy, and we will not therefore make the attempt. The ball commenced at nine o'clock, and did not break up till three in the morning, when our company dispersed, well pleased with the manner in which they had been enter- tained. Saturday, the 18th, was the day fixed for our departure, but still we were unwilling to leave till we had made some return for the hospitality we had received from the people of St. Johns. The Company, therefore, invited over two hundred of the principal inhabitants of the city on an excursion about ten miles outside the harbor, and about twelve o'clock we set out with one of the most j)leasant and sociable parties that was ever collected on the deck of a steamer. The day was as fine as could be desh'ed, and the scenery of the coast magnificent. We saw the " S})Outing rock" as it is called, which is one of the grea..st natural curi- osities in the island and perhaps in the world. The rock itself is not more than thirty feet above the surfiice of the water, and has a cavity in its centre which runs through it to the base, and whi(.'h is from six to seven feet in diameter. A small stream of fresh water flows from an overhanging hill into this cavity, and when the tide is out finds its way through an opening in the rock into the sea. When the tide is coming 0)4 A T R T P T O X R W F t) I' N' H 1. A N H , ill, the waves rush with siicli forec into this hoh; as to throw the fresh water in the eavity to a hei.irht of twenty and sometinjes forty feet. After a pleasant trip of two or tliree hours aioiii; the coast we returned with our ijucsts to tlie harbor, wliere we }iarted with many mutual re«rrets. Cheer after eheer was given and returned, liandkercliiefs were waved, and when we couhl hear each other no lonj^er, tlie cannon timndered out our adieus. Wliile passing tlirough the Xarrows, Mr. Huested, who was engaged by tlio company to bhist the ^Merlin rock, which lies right in the way of vessels entering the harl)or, and which is very dangerous to those of the largest class, got uj) a grand submarine explosion for our especial cntertainnieut. We liad hardly passed over the rock when the explosion took i)lace, throwing up a vast body of water to the height of sixty or seventy feet, and shaking the mountains on either side like an earthquake. Our vessel tren\bled with the concussion, and the spray fell in a shower upon the deck, sprinkling a ninnber of our i)nss(>ngers, to the great amuse- ment of those wlio escaped. On clearing the Xarrows a parting salute was given as our 1)0W tiu'ned in tlie direction of Port an nnsipie, where U'e expected to find the Sarah L. Hryaiit awaiting our return. ,-^«, Sl'nlTlNC; 1!<>('K, NKAU ST. JOHNS. ru\ v'VK \{ VII. f^'y^MO'liJT f'^'<' ^-^ ^v^' <-:iin<' willmi si^ulit of Cnpo i^iiy, and about seven o'clock "'"^ were sutlicieutly iKar to I'ort an llasqiio to discern objects tlu'ou.u'li the telest tj;;-. Some of our coni])any went aloi't, iuid gave us the clieeriug intelliu'ciice that they saw a lartre vcs.sol lying behind tlie high rocks which iirotccted the entrance to the harbor, but we were afraid to ho})o lest " • slionld be doomed to a second disappointment. There was no doubt, luAvever, as lo a vessel being there, for she had bf.'cn seen also through tlie telescope ; lait it was confidently believed by some that it would prove to be the French frigate, Iphigeuie, which, it was said, ♦^ook a northern course after leaving Halifax. In fact, every one, even '""^1^ 66 A T R I I' T I) X K W K O L' N I) 1- A .V D ij: even the most san,2:uine, fen rod to liope. AVhile we wore spoculatiiio- on the ])rol)abiHly of its beiiii^ tlio Sarali \j. Bryant, a small row l)oat was observed approaehini^ our steamer, and in k>ss than lialf an liour we were within liaiHiiij; distance. Among those in it was Mr. Shiyter, the cai)tain of the Victoria, which conld also be seen lyinj:^ in the harbor. Mr. Field, who, with several others, was on the bow of the steamer an.xionsly await- ing; their ajjproach, now hailed them. " Has the bark arrived ?" lie cried out, in a stentorian voice. A wave of the hat was the only reply ; bnt it was enonr^h, and one wild, enthusiastic hurra broke from those on board the James Adffer. " Hold on, hold on," said Mr, Field, " wait till we are certain." Then repeating- his (jnostion, he was answered in the affirmative. The company were all impatience to give vent to their enthusiasm, but they restrained their feelings for a few moments lonu'cr. " AVhen did she arrive ?" he asked. " On Wednesday," was the reply. This was sufllcient, we were amply repaid for the an.xiety we suffered, and three such cheers as followed the glad tidings has seldom been heard. After all, we had not come from New York on a fruitless errand, and W(> would yet, if favored a litth; longer, be enabled to lay the cable which is to be the first link in connecting the Old AVorld with the Xcm', and brinu- ing the j)eople of both continents into instant connnnnication with each other. After all, we could fell our friends on our return that we had accomplished the great undertaking, and that the first submarine telegraph had ))eet\ laid on this side ol' the Atlantic, We had now reached the entrance to the harl)or, and could distinctly see the musts of the long expected vessel towering above the rocks, with the stars and stri))es flying from her niizzen ])eak, In a few minutes more we gave her a salute from our cannon, and ere the echoes dieil awav A TRIP T O N K \V V () U N I) I, AND. t)l ainonn; the distant liills, the litth.' Vi<'toria responded aLmin and a^-aln, till she was completely enveloped in a cloud of smoke. Jt was a trrnnd sit-lit for the people of Port an l>as(|ne, tlic ([uict of whose little vilhiu'c \va> never ))efore disturbed with such boisterous rejoicing'. A nmnbin* of children were amusing theiuselves on the side of the hills which bound the harbor, and enjoying the scene Ijefore them with the greatest zest, but the first re[)ort set them scampering like a flock of frightened (h'cr, and fearing a second attack, they disapi)eared like magic. In a few minnt(»< we were anchored alongside the l)ark, and all was excitement and bnstli> among the passengers. We all wantcMl to go ashore, but as the number of boats was not ecinal to the demand, many had to remain on board, ll was soon ascertained that it would be impossiI)le to connniMice the work of laying the cable for two or .three days, so that there would be an opportunity for every one to gratify their desire. The Sarah Ti. l>ryant had. it a})peared, very tji'mpestuons weather, and for twenty-six hours wjis exposed to all the fmw of a terril)le gale, during which her hatches were battened and she was running under bare poles. We took advantage of the fu'st opportunity that presented to go ashore, a)id after a perilous passage oi" half a mile duriug which the l)oat was nearly capsized by one of our heavy friends who would persist in sitting at the side instead of in the luiddle — we reached terra lirma thank- ful in having escaped with dry clothes. ()\u' friend, as nniy be sup])osed, did not escape our indignation lor the danger to which he had exposed us ; but lie was too nnich of a {)hilosopher to care for it, and while he had his life-preserver which he always carried under his arms he felt p(>r- fectly indilVerent to the dangers of the d('c|). Before reaching Port an liasque we had to run into a smaller liarl)or on the side of which it is built. This harbor is called Channel Arm, and is deep enough for vessels of two or three humln-'d tons. When we reaeheil 08 A T U I 1' T O \ K \V F T N' D I. A N l> uli.il is ciillcd tlio wliurf, wo had to iisci'iid a roiiirli wooilcii Inddcr, ciirlit or tell feet liiti'li, fast(Mii'(l ill tho i'ol-Iv, IVom the top of which we coidd ^('(^ (lie vilhi"'(', ('oiislstinii: of fortv or liftv fiMin.' houses, iiio>tIv two stories hiii'h. Of these, about half a dozeu were iu a .uToup, hut the reui;iii(h'r were seiitteretl over au area of h ilf a mih'. 'rhev were all eoustruetcd witiiout the slisrhtest reirurd to moth'ru iuiproveiueuts, with one exception, and that, it is to be presumed. Ix'longed to one of the n|)per ten. It wns certainly the most aristocratic we saw, and might pass on the outskirts of New York as a neat, unpretiMidiiiu; little cottaji'e. What struck us par- ticidarly iu the aspect of this place was the rouu-h, uneven nature of the li'ronnd, which was marked by hills, deep canons and holes. Patches of turf in some places liid the rocks from view, while here and thei'c beau- tiful little wild flowers, of which we fonneil bo(iuets for our lady j)assen- ti'crs, sprauir uj) anions; the crevici's. With all tlu; wildncss of its scenery, its bleak inhospitable coast, repelliuti: rather than iuvitin.!,' the voyau'cr, there was yet in its very wilduess somethiuii" fascinatinu; and I'omantic to the lover of adventiH'c. The town, if it maybe diii-nifuMl by the title, was situated on a risiuu; jrround, ail'ordinj:: a view of tho country to the distance of six or seven miles. To the north of it rises in solitary u-randeur the toweriiijr promontory of Cape Ray to the hei^-ht of iifteen hundred feet, while on the south is the broad Atlantic. The surroundinu; country is well watered with miniature lakes, in whose crystal depths salmon trout are found in the u'H'atest abinidance. Tile only si;rows a brown berry. Tiiese and a few wild (lowers appearecl to lie the only productions of t!iis part of the island. There W(>re .a few frardens to the houses, but no horses, cows, or cattle of anv descri|>tion were to be seen. The only arlich' seemed to be codnsli, and that was piled up in stacks, which at a distance b(n'e some resemblance .=!» A TUT V T O N K W V o f \ 1) I, A N n , 09 ._ J I'or.T Af nAsgrii to liuy ricks. Tlic dclnslon, liowcvcr, soon vnnislicd on a closer inspection, for there was no iiiistakiiiii' the jieculiiir smell. The lirst. inhahitnnt we uict on hiinlinsi- was an oM, ronu-h, weatlier- hcaten fisliernian, wlio appeared to l)e li-liicd to the spot with astoiiislnnent at our stuhlen appearance. AVc made several inciuiries of him, Imt fnidinjij it impossible to obtain the desired information, \\i\ left him to pnrsne our iuvesti,i«;atioiis iii other (piarlers. The conversation, however, was so cha- racteristic we jUMVe it rrrhufhii rf Ulcniliin. "What," we iiUjuircMl, " is the population of this pluc(! ?'' " l']h ! what!"' said he after a pause, dnriiiu' which he surveyed us froui head to foot loiiu* enonuii to eouiit even the l)ultons. "How many ])eople live here ?" "They aint all home now.'' " l?ut cau you not tell us their mnuber, are there two or three lum- dred ?" r 70 A TRIP TO NEWFOUN'PI, AKD " Oh ; there's a great many." " Well, where are they all ?" we asked, lookliiii; in the direction of the village, which appeared to be entirely deserted. " They are all out,"' he rei)lied. On a hill, a short distance off, we perceived al)Out fifty jiersons who had assembled there, when our steamship came to off the entrance to the harbor. They were principally women and children, but they did not seem desirous of a nearer acquaintance with us at that particular timi^ although we afterwards found them very friendly. The men were rather prepossessing than otherwise. They were about the mediinn height, with clear blue eyes, light hair, regular features, and a frank, good naturiMl expression that at once gained your conlidence. They are sinii)le in their manners, and their information n]ioii every subject but codfishing is most limited. •' AVhat do you do here?" we iii(|uired of another. "What do you all \ ork at in this place ?" "We are all lishermen," he said. " We all catch cod," " You are not all employed in catching cod ?" "All of us. c.Kcepting two mei'cliants." "Well, and what do they do "f "They buy cod of Ihe fishermen. T'hc/e are their stacks there,'' he added, pointing to the heaj) of codfish o*' which we have already spoken. "What do you live on chi(>lly ?" " Cod." In fact, as we have said, they appeared to know nothing about any- thing else ; they maintained themselves and their families by fishing, and the i)rincipal portion of their daily food consisted of cod. On the arrival of the .lanies Adger at Tort an nas(iue, we found timt the mechanical arrangements on board Ihe Sarah \j. Hryanl, for Ihe T HI)' l' () N 1.; W F U N D 1, A X I) . 71 laying of tlio cuhle, were not coiiiplcied. It was resolved, under these circumstances, that the steamer should j-'o to Cape North and select the best and nearest portion of the coast to Cape Ray, the point of coimec;- tion. Mr. Field and some sixteen or eighteen of the passengers remained at l*ort au Basque till the return of the steamer, and as we were among those we took advantage of the earliest opportunity to visit the bark, which was about live hundred tons burthen, and strongly built. Tiie eable itself weighed four hundred tons, and was seventy-four mih's long, while the distance between tin; points of connection on Xewfoundland and Cai)e Jjreton is sixty-five. The extra nine iLiil.'s were allowed to nudce up lor the inequalities in the bottom cf the ocean, and any variation that might be producetl in the direct line by the wind or currents. The cable lay in innnense coils in the hold of the vessel, and the operation of coiling alone took fourteen days. The machinery was very simple in its construction, and was the same that was used in laying the Mediterranean cal)Ie. The cable as it came out of the hold passed over iron rollers, and from these between vertical guide rollers, from which it passed again over two large wheels, each eight feet in diameter. As these revolved it was thrown out on a cast iron saddle, over the stern of the vessel. The wheels were sup- plied with four breaks, worked ])y two long levers and two compressors, which were enqjloyed to prevent the cable from surging as it passed round the wheels, as well as to prevent it from running olf bv its own weisli, meat and fowl, and when we thought the stock exhausted he exhibit'£ arrival in such numbors was imcxpeeted tlu'v were not so well provided as either they or ourselves would have desired. Their delieieney beeaine ahiriningly ap})areiit as the night came on, lor it was ibnnd that there were only three extra beds and each of these with the most rigid economy of space could not be made to hold more than two at the very utmost. Those who were not so fortunate as to secure one of these in the early part of the evening were obliged to sleep as well as circumstances would permit, on the lloor. It was some consolation, however, to them to know that there was no danger of their falling out of bed, even if it was a little too hard for their feelings. In the midst of these pressing necessities pillows were in the great- est demand, and blankets if put uji at auction would have brought any l)rlL'e. Necessity, like a bail attorney, it lias been said, knows no law, and this remark might be applied with equal trutli to souk; of the mein- bt;rs of our company on that, the first niglit of our visit to Port an Bas- (|ue. It is with sorrow we state, but as we are compelled to do so by a strict regard for the facts of our narrative we cannot shrink from the per- formance of our duty — it is then with feelings of sorrow we state that we saw by the pale glimmer of the himp two of our companions in the di-ad hour of the night stealing a blanket from a third, while that third reposed in the unconscioiisness of sleep. And w." may also state that they made an attempt to deprive another of a pillow, in which however, thev failed as the sleeper with wise foresight had tied one of the strings by which the cover was fastened, to his wrist. Notwithstanding our many troubles we slept as soundly as if we were on beds of down, and arose the following morning with renewed strength and appetites that must have conunanded the respect of our cook and satisfied the exacting hospitality of oiu- worthy landlord. But if we fared poorly with regard to shM'ping accommodations there I A T K I I' T () \ H W F () I N I> I, A N I» , 7.') Ci<>iN sntlerinirs will not tail to excite the sympathy of the benevolent and coni- ])assionate. The morniim' of our an'ivtd, as we have said, we formed our- selves into small j)arties, some of which went oil' to Cape Ray ten miles distant on an expedition of discovery, some on a lishiiii>; excursion, while others started o(T on a wild djjer limit eleven or twelve mih'S into the interior of the island. The latter were most sanu'uine of success and conndentlv expectc(l that they would l»e umdde to cai'ry home the spoils of the chase ; l)Ut they were doomed to a u'rievons disaiijiointmeiit, and if we may Judii'c from their experience of huntinu' deer in Newfoundland, it will l)e a huiii,' time liefor(> they are induced to u'O on a second entei'])rize of ihc kind. One of the most enthusiastic, hut whose ideas of (h'cr huntinii- were of a rather 76 A T H 1 I' T () \ K \V K I) r N It I, A S I> . sinji-iilar character, in addition to his rilic, was armed with a tooth brush and a bottle oF perfume, while with jtraiseworthy precaution he provided himself with a pair of kid gloves to preserve his hands from the onslanjrht of mosipiitoes. It was certainly a grotesque hunting party, and will fuiMiish material for many a good joke to the villagers of Port au Bascpie. Eleven or twelve miles over a perfect wilderness of rock and bog, inter- isjierscd occasionally with stunted shrubbery, and no deer to be seen, was anything but encouraging ; and to add to their disappointment, they had rather iniprovidently forgotten to furnish themselves with sufficient pro- visions. Tliey started about one o'clock, and long before night their eatables were .".11 exhausted, and their spirits — of l)Oih kinds — began to give out. Oiily one codfish, and that of rather diminutive dimensions, remaineil ; and as there were some live or six to divide it among, the prospect of the hunters w'as somewhat glooiuy. In this dilemma a council of war was held, at which it was proposetl that the fish should be kept I'or breakfast the following morning ; l)ut their necessities were })ressing ; and it was linally decided that it should be demolished there and then, and that the morrow shouM provide for itself. That night they passed on the side of a hill, and the following morning, sadder l»ut wiser men, they turned their faces towartls Port au I>as(|ue, which they reached al)out noon, in an almost famishing condition. One rushed in an almost frantic state into .Mr. NVaddeU's grocery, and procured some crackers and cheese, while another invested a portion of his funds in a dozen herrings, which it was found had not been in their native element for seven or eight da vs. " I want you," said he to our friend the cook — " 1 want you to fry these for us innnediately." " What are they ?" fsaid the cook, eyeing them very suspi(;iously. " Fish of course — don't you see — and we want them done as nice as ]*ossible." A TRIl' TO V K W Kor .Vrn, A N I.. 7:7 " I can't do them for yon," \w rci.Iie.l, " wo novcr do snci, fish hero." "And why not/' said the knijrht of the perfume bottle, for it was he. — " why not." " Well, because I don't like their looks." " You don't, eh ? And pray what's the reason. They're jrood. fresh fish, are they not?" " Well, tliey may have been fresh enough once, but that is about a week ago." " A week ago !" the knight replied in unfeigned astonishment. "Why they were sold to me for fresh fish." " Well, sir, all I have got to say is," rejoined the eook. "that if th(>y were bought for fresh fish it is you tlrnt was .sold. I e.n't do them sir. I can't do them, and if I tricl they wouldn't hold together in the pan " This was sufficient ; the kninht of tii<. perfume bottle wns reluetantly Tin; iir.Mi.i;- nKiriiv, 18 A T H I V T O \ K \V I' o r \ n I, A \ n . Nft obliged to ackiiowlcduc timt lie had Ix'fii "sold," and made a resolution there and then that he wonld never even inidcr ti»e most pressinij^ neees- sitics attempt to l)ny lish au-ain. The eheese and craekers, however, were }j,-ood, and served to satisfy the eravinirs of the i)arty till dinner was pre- pared. As a deer hnnt the atfair was eertainly a lamentahle faihire ; l)nt onr readers mnst not snppose that there were no deer on the island, for we were told tiiat about thirty miles in the interior they are to be fonnd in abimdanee. There is one lesson whieh may be learned from it with ]n-orit by all who may hereafter go a hunting in Newfoundland, and that is. alwavs to take plentv of provisions with von, ignore the existenee of kid gloves, and leave your j)erfume bottles at home. The party who went on a tour of diseovery to Cape Ray were also eompelled to encamp on the hill side, as they found it utterly impossibles to return to the village before night fall. Hut if their bed was not so desirable as they might have wished, they were more than compensated for that and the other inconveniences to which they were subjected, in the mauMiilicence of the scenerv bv which they were surrounded. From tin; smnmit of Cape Ray they had an extended view of the interior of the island which they descril)ed in such glowing colors on their return that several jjarties were about being organized for a similar excursion. Far as the eye could reach there was a never-ending succession of hills and mountains, and embosomed in these were valHes that might rival the lincst ever seen from Alpine sununits. They had a wild, weird beauty that reminded one of some of the sceiU'S in 0,«;sian, and if peopled by the beings of his fancy the ])ictnre would have been complete. Rut there was no living thing visible, and in that vast solitude not a sound was heard to break the stillness of the .scene. Nature held snj)rcnie dominion, for as vet the viru-in soil was unbroken, and there was not even the trace of a habitation to trll that a human being hiul ever liv<'d there. With TRIP TO \ K W V O V \ r» I. A N' n , 19 such a siiilit ))(Mioat1i tlicin it is not to Ih: wondered ut if our friends took no note of time, and if niji;lit overtook tliein on their return. Tliey were determined not to leave before sunset, and tl:ey were amply rewarded f(»r tlieir delay by the new beauties whieh were revealed to tiiem. As the sun descended the heavens he threw over the scene a flood of uolden liuht, whii'li tiu'ued to lire as he di> ippeared I)elow the horizon. Soon the <:;rey mists of evening crept up the hill sides concealinjr the valleys from the view, and brinj^ing out in stronger relief the bleak and barren sununits of the surrounding mountains. Then, even the mountains became shadowy and indistinct as the night came on, the valleys with their lakes and rivers and evergreen forests disappeared as if under the wand of a potent magician, the golden light, that flooded hill and dale was gone and every- thing was lost in the darkness of the night. Our friends, as wc have said, slept on tli'j hill side, having concluded to remain after two or three unsuccessful attemi)ts to reach Cape I'ay Cove, where a few fishermen resided with their families. They had dis- missed their guides who stopped at the first habitation they could find with the intention of si)emling the night there, and of returning to the party in the morning. But the jieople of the house having no knowledge of the arrival of the James Adger at Port an Basque, and having in the early part of the day seen the guides in company with our friends, con- cluded that there was some fearful mystery about the matter whieh should be explained at once. They put no confidence whatever in the story of the steamer having arrived, and actually believed that a murder had been conniiitted. They accordingly set out at once on the search for the dead bodies, and about three o'clock in the morning came upon the si)ot where our friends lay, wrapt in all the unconciousness of sleep. The sleepers were soon aroijsed by the barking of a dog that accompanied the fish- ermen, and one of them seizing an axe with which he had armed him- ■* / li' I!- 80 A T R I 1' T (1 N F, \V K () r V n I- A N' D self before leavinjr Port an r>ii:;qne and wliicli lay beside him, prepared to defend himself apiiiist what lie believed to l)e a midui^sj^ht attaek of Indians. Two of the fishernu'H who wen^ all ea,- still in the land of the living-, met with a warmer reeeption than they deserved, and like many befor(! them, wonld have sulfered by their friendship if they had not somewhat hastily retreated. The matter how- ever was soon exi)laiiied, and tlu; whole jiarty returned to the house of the fishermen where they were j^rovidcd with a more comfortable lodirine for the remainder of the iiiu-ht. and a tolerably ,2^ood breakfast in the mormn|i^. THE VICTOIIIA. TOVVIS<; nil; ( \I!I i: >llll' II!«tM ('OKI' AI HASQl-K, TO ni A I'T i: w VIM. lOIIfi 'Jiinios AdiK'f rctnrt\('(l on Tiicsdav ovniiiiir, the '21st. to *^'^-')^X''' Port nil l>as{]U(', and (Ihm'c was a uTaiid nMinion of the com- fy l>aiiy. Tlioso who had jroiio in the steamer to (^ijm' North hiid wondorful stories to tell us of the seonery and still more won- derful accounts to give us of their lishinir exploits. Codlish such as fisher- men never dreamed of ill their most extravared. The Victoria was employed in carrying th^:' frame and timber for the j)urpose from Port au l>as(|ue, but when she arrived with them at the i\nv it was found that she coult out, swam ashore with them. When all the timber svas landed the frame of the house was \n\i up, and in an incredil)ly short space of time it was j)re])ared for the reception 84 A I" K 1 !• r II N i: w |- o r \ o i, .\ v \> . of the battories and otlior t('l('iri'a|)li iiistniinoiits. A dccj) hole was duo; ill the centre of the hiiiliUiiii". and in this was sunk a heavy piece of timber abont the thiclcness of ar. ordinary capstan. .V hou'sliead was phiced over this au^ain, and tiie intermediate space ))etween it and tlic cai)stan, as we shall call it, beinu; filled np it was rendenMl so lirm that it would hohl tlr* largest vessel in a gale of wind. Around this the cable was to be wound, .ind although the straining j»rodu<'('d liy it was comparatively slight it was considered necessary to have it well secured in case of (Muergency. Everything was now i)rep:ired and in readiness for the laying of the cal)le, which was connnenced on Thursday, the 2.')d of August. Jt was a most e.vciting scimic, although attended with little danger to those einployeil in the laying or paying out of the line. The Sarah L. Bryant was lying a little less than a mile from the shore, and the steamer Victoria altout half that dislanc(\ .\ suHuMt'iit ((uantity of the cable was taken from her hold and placed in the form of a coil upon two boats, lashed toii'cther. 'I'his vrus |)erlbrme(l with little dithcultv : l)ut the towiic of it ashore was a most critical task, anr('ss was hardly porooptil)l«» from tlie dock of tlio stcnmor. It was known lliat tlic work liad hcirnii. I ml, nn- forlnnatcly. the .lames Adu'cr was loo far oil" to allow the company on l)oard to sc(> what was doinn*. A portion of tjic n\ost cnthnsiastic volun- teered their services, and havinu' jirocnred one of the st(>anier's boats assisted in towim;'. 'I'liey were detei'niined on sharintr Ihe A T K I P TO N K W F T N D I- A N 1» , m fe|w siastic cheers, which were answered in the same spirit hy those on slioro, they started for the steamer with the gratifying intelligence. " Xow boys," said one of the party, " let us be the first to bring the news, and we will call ourselves the Sul)marine Telegraph Express, for the occasion." A general assent was given to this proposal, and away they started for the James Adger, making their little boat fly over the waves in their impatience to reach the vessel. As they passed the propeller one of the hands hailed them and asked the news. " What is the matter ?" he inciuired. " Have they got through ? Is all right ?" "Yes." they all replied in one voice ; "the cable is laid — all right, lict us have three more ciieers — hi)), hip, hurra." And three more cheers were given that made the welkin ring. While passing the Sarah L. IJry- aiit, tlie same (juestion was asked, and the response greeted with another l)urst of enthusiasm. In ten minutes they were on boanl the James Adger, wlii're, however, they found the gratifying intelligeiu'e luid pre- ceded them. Little did they imagine then that their efforts would be rendered worse than useless, and that in the course of a week one-half the cable would be lost. Tile I'ud of the cable having l)een secured l)y several coils around the capstan, we remaincMl at anchor that night, and made ready to start early the following morning. That morning, however, we were j)revented l)y a dense fog, which rendered it exceedingly dangi rous for ns to attempt such an undertaking. In fact, if we felt ever so mnch inclined it would liave l)een almost impossible, as we could not discern ()l)Jects at a distance of a luuHb'cd yards. We were; ol)liged, therefore, to remain where we were during the greater part o[' the day, anxiously watching every sign of a change in the weather. One of our l)oats, containing seven or eight per- sons, ventured out, and having mistaken the direction of the land, came A TRIP TO N E W F U X D I, A X D , 81 yovy near l)oiii,i;^ lost. The error, liowever, was discovered before tlie steamer was out of siirlit, and corrceted ininicdiately. Up to eij>:lit o'eloek that evening- no clumgc liad taken place in the weather ; and we beu-an to lose all hope of the fog clearing away that night. About nine o'clock, however, we caught faint glimpses of the moon through the murky at- mosphere, and in a few minutes more we could see her dimly, as through a veil. Slowly the fog began to disappear, and in the course of an hour we discerned the ship and propeller lying on our larboard bow, and about one-fourth of the distance betweeu us and the shore, A light breeze sprung up wliich assisted in clearing the atmosphere, and there was everv indication that we would have fine weather in the morning for the j>ros(^- cution of our work. At last, after knocking about here for I'our or live days, we Ini'l a favorable prospect of getting away, and we congratulated each other on our good fortune. In two days more and with a eonlinu- ance of such weather, we would ])e at Cape North with the end of the cal)le, and ready to start for home. But here, again, we were doomed to disapi>ointment and to a longer stay off this bleak and desolate coast. The breeze to which we were indebted for clearing away the fog, freshened near midm'ght, and before daybreak blew a perfect gale. Notwithstanding the state of the weather it was decided to start in the morning, and al)(iiit six o'clock v\e accordingly weighed anchor and made ready to tow the ship to sea. All this time W(! were under shelter of the land, and al- though it bl. w with great violence, the waves ran low. Having succ(^l('(l, after the greatest difficulty, in attaching the Sarah L. Bryant with a hawser, we prepared to tow her, but in this we were prevented by anotlnr obstacle. 1 L was found, after repeated attempts, impossible to raise her anchor ; and, having no other alternative, her c ij)tain was obliged to slij) it. havimr in'eviouslv attached a buov to the chain to mark its location. All this time the submarine cable held on securely to the shi)). although 88 T r{ I !• r o N K Nv V o r n i» i. a n d, subjocted to gToat strainlnj]^. In the midst of the intense excitement which prevailed on board the steamer, it was rumored that it had iriven way, but it had only disappeared from our view for a few moments, and when we looked ajrain, there it was, holdin^o: on with a death-like tenacity. In the midst of all the trouble it was encourairinj? to see this ; we felt, ajrateful that our labor had not been in vain, and re-assured as to the strength it was said to possess. ^ We now endeavored to jyet into a proper position to tow the l)ark, but after several ineffectual attempts, were oblip;ed to jrive it up in despair. Both the steamer and the l)ark were almost completely at the mercy of the elements ; the haw.ser jjcot under our wheels, and serious apprehensions were felt that it would interfere with their action. Fortunately, they escaped without damat-'e ; but we had hardly got clear of it when the ship was observed drifting down upon us with such rapidity as rendered a (Collision inevitable. From the moment her anchor was slipped she be- came unmanageable, and although every effort was made to get her bow in a straight line with our stern, it was found impossible to do so. There seemed to be some terrible fatality hanging over her, and as she came down stern foremost upon our bow, our worst fears were excited for the safety of both vessels. The propeller was lying off at a distance of two or three hundred vards, but she could render no assistance, and anv at- tempt she might make would only render the matter more serious. The scene on board our steamer was painfully exciting ; every one crowded to the larboard side, awaiting the collision with breathless anxiety. The captain, as soon as he discovered the imminence of the danger, gave orders to reverse the wheels, and we were now movinii: out of the wav of the ship, l)ut so slowly that we api)eared to nudce no progress. '' Back her ! back her I" he cried out to the lirst mate, who passed the order to the engineer. "Back her I why d.m't you t)!>ck her ?" roared the captain T Kir T o s V. w F o r v n i, a x n . 89 CATT HAY. of the Sarah L. IJrvant ; but the sliips apjx'arcd (o bo drawn torrotlicr l)V sonio irresistible attraction, and in a tew niimitcs after the order was tiivcn they strnek. The hirljoard bow of onr steamer eaiiie in eoiitaet witli the stern of the l)arlv ; l)nt not with snrh violenee as we anticipated. None of nnr timi)er<^ were started, the oidy damage we received bein<2: two slight scratches about five feet above the water line, while the V)ark was nnin- jnred. Onr escape appeared almost miraculous, for at one time it seemed as if nothintj; couUl save us, but now that the fearful suspense was over the excitement soon died away. The ladies were not on deck when th(» acci- dent occurred, as they had in compliance with the recjuest of tli(> captain retired to the cal)in a short time liefore. They were i^'uorant of our dan- i: NMM, A N n. 'W rould jrot into a bottoi* position. As soon us wo jmrtod from hor slio dropped licr iviniiininu; anchor, still holdinu* on to the snhniiirinc cable, and we also came to anchor al)ont the same time. We remained in this state for about an hour, when we saw two or three ila<2;s or streamers run uj) at half mast on l)oard the bjirk — a sijrnal of distress. Shortly after she unfurled some of her sails, and stood out to sea. She had lost her anchor, and to save herself from driftin<; on the rocks, was <)bliu-ed to cut the subnmrine cable, and stand off from the shore. In a few minutes wc were after her, and by a series of most skilful manoeuvres attached her to our stern by a hawser. When we first ap[)roached her, several efforts were made to throw a rope over her side, but without success, when our captain cliant>-ed the position (»f our V(\ssel so as to let her drop under our stern, and allow a rope to I»e llnnii- to one of the men on her bowsprit. The roi)e was cauj^ht, the hawser hauled on board, and in less than a (piar- tcr of a(i hour we had her safely in tow. Four cheers were <>:iven to Cap- tain Turricr, for the skill he displayed in the manag'cment of his vessel, and tliey were well deserved. Dnrinii' this difficulty the bark lost two of her anchors, and the steamer was oblitred to part with one of hers, hnivinjij only two between both vessels. Holli of these belonw'd to our steamer, but as it was impos- sible for her to return near t'lC land without some security, our captain was oliliucd to trive her one of nis own. I'iie '2i')\\\ ])v\uIe, which broke auain soon after. It was evident now that the portion which had b>een laid must be abandone(t, and that it should be relanded and secured anew to the fasten ing's in the telegra})!! house. T:^^#^ B^ .^CliJf- jr- TAKI\(i THK CAIIIK A^HOUK. CHAPTKR TX. /;i^' / '3^ an carlv lionr on ]Mondiiv moniiiit;' tlio ^ttli, tlio Yirtoria ^y>'^^^ took tlio bark in tow, and brouLrlit lior within a distance of S J. \ ' YJJ al)ont six Innnlred yards from the beacli. The eabh* was tlion "^ ]»hi('ed npon the l)oats, as described in the i)receedinu: chaj)ter, successfully landed, and placed in connection with the batteries, A stilf breeze from the northwest however prevented the ])rosecution of the work, and it was deemed advisable to defer it till the next nioriiiim-. Outside the Cove the waves ran so hiti'h that any attempt to lay the cable would ondanu'cr the safety of both vessels. That day ther(>fore, we remained at anchor, and flattered ourselves with the ho})e that the weather would soon prove more auspicious. T'he following; morniiiti' was all that could be desired ; the waves had AS ^, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) V] , To render our position still more critical another kink occiu-red in tho cable, and both vessels were compelled to lay to. They made several at- tempts to repaii the damag-e, but all was useless, the bark rolled with such violence that the men could not work, and it was with the greatest diffi- culty they could even stand on the deck. Every eye was now fixed on Mr, Canning, and they all waited with feverish anxiety for him to give the order to cut the cable. They had for more than an hour abandoned all hope of being able to land it, and their fears were aroused for their own safety and that of the vessel. But Mr. Canning was unwilling to give the word, still hoi)ing, even against hope, that the gale would abate, and that before morning he would be able to resume work. Although both vessels were holding on })y the cable, it showed no sign of parting, and would doubtless have remained whole to the end, had it been con- sidered prudent to hold on by it. It Wiis at this juncture that its strength was tested, and successfully i)roved. "We ha T O N E W F V N' D I, A N D . 95 SARAH L. HRYANT AND JAMES ADGKR LKAVINO C'Al'E RAY. the greatest interest, from tlie iiiomcnt we started from Cape Ray Cove. A watch of two liours was ors^anizcd amoiig the company, to bo kept u]) till we reached the place of destination. Two persons were iip[)ointed on each watch, whose duty it was to attend to the signals on the bark, and to stop our steamer when required. During the day time, the chief engineer, Mr. Scott, assisted in this part of the work, and the passengers will never forget the feelings with which they heard him call out to the man at the engine to "Stop her," or the relief they felt when he gave the word to "Hook her on, and let her slew." We dreaded the appearance of the white flag, for it was an indication that something was wrong on board the bark, and when it was lowered it seemed as if an oppressive 96 A T 111 V T O X K \V K t) L' \ 1) L A X I) weight had been rciuovecl tVoin our iiihids. But when the gale came on, and the lives of all on board the Sai'ah L, Bryant, appeared to be in im- minent danger, the interest became painfully intense. Although not more tiian live hundred feet from us, we could only see those on her deck nt brief intervals. She plunged violently, and as she rose at times on tin; crest of the waves, we could see at least one half of her keel. For two long Jiours we watched her tugging at the cable, anticipating with impatience the word to cut it ; but still she held on, and there seemed to be no intention on the part of those in command to give the order. At last the white Hag disai)peared, after an hour of painful suspense, and we soon perceived that the cable had been cut. The order was immediately given to our engineer to go ahead, but as there was some danger of the hawser breaking, our steamer was not put under full headway. At one time we were ourselves in a most critical condition, and were laboring heavily in the trough of the sea. It was only for a few minutes, however : our steamer was placed head to the waves, and we were soon out of dan- ger. AVe now made as direct as possible for Sydney, going at the rate of from two and a half to three miles an hour, and expecting to reach that port on Thursday. The evening previous to the day on which the cable was cut the British war steamer Argus, Captain Purvis, which had been visible for the last two hours, came alongside the propeller, and was spoken by Captain Sluyter. Orders had been received by Admiral Fansiiawe of the North American station, from the British Board of Admiralty, to render any assistance in his power to the vessels employed in laying the cable. The order was transmitted to Capt. Purvis, who immediately set out from Halifax, but unfortunately arrived too late for the purpose. He asked Capt. Sluyter if he required any assistance. 98 TRIP TO X K W ¥ U N I) L A N V, |! " Are you iii want of assistance T lie iiu{uiretl, when the propeller came within speaking distance. •' No," was the reply. " Are you short of coal ?" . " Yes, rather." " Is the other steamer short of coal also ?" he again asked. " Yes, we are both short." " Then I shall lie by you all night, and if you should need assistance you shall have it." True to his word, Captain Purvis remained by us, and as we saw the green and red lights of his steamer gleaming through the darkness of that long and weary night, we enjoyed a feeling of security for those on board the bark we had not felt for hours before. About seven o'clock on Thursday morning, the Argus came along- side again, and we observed one of her men holding a black board on her paddle box, having the following inscribed in large letters upon it : — CAN WE REXDKR YOU ANY A«SISTANCR ? Our captain shook his head in reply, but the Englishman was not satislied with this, and taking a short turn, came back and again displayed his black board, with the following words : — ANSWER — YES, OR NO ! AS I AM ON MY PASSAGE. This was definite enough and required an explicit answer, which was g'ven promptly. A piece of chalk was produced, and the significant monosyllable " No," written in gigantic characters on the side of our smoke stack. This was sufficient, and in a few minutes more the Argus left us ; but long after she disappeared beyond the horizon we could trace her course by the black line of smoke which she left along the sky. KNTAMI'MKNT OK ,M|( -MAC INDIANS. CHAPTER X. were now, as we have said, on our way to Sydney, whu^h '^rJJ;).'3 was about seventy miles distant. On Thursday morning tlio f^ale abated considerably, and about three o'clock the sea had l)ecome settled enoug-h to allow a boat to be sent from the bark. Four of our company, Mr, Canning, and five of the steamer's crew, came in her, and as they jumped u; .i' deck were received with a welcome that came from the very depths «,f our hearts. Mr. Canning was conducted to the fore cabin by Mr. Field, where we were all assem- bled, and where he was greeted with three enthusiastic cheers. It was a gratifying assurance, after all his labor and anxiety, that his services were appreciated, and that, although the attempt to lay the cable had proved a failure, he had done all that human energy could accomplish, and the fail- ure was in no degree attributable to any neglect or want of i)roper pre- caution on his part. It was a matter entirely beyond his power, or that 'k 100 A T U I 1' TO K E \V F (> r X D I, A X D , I 1 of any other man ; he hoped to the Inst, and only yieWed when Captain Pousland decided that the safety of all in the bark demanded the sacrifice of tlie cable. His appearance and that of his associates once more in our midst was a glad sight to us all, for we entertained the most serious appre- hensions for tiieir safety. If the hawser, which was the only connection between the vessels, had parted during the gale, we would have found it a dangerous task to take lier in tow again. To its great strength, therefore, we were in no small degree indebted for the safety of our friends. On Thursday afternoon about four o'clock, we took a pilot on board, and an hour after we were safely ancliored opposite the coal wharf of North Sidney. Our stay here was much longer than we anticipated, but we made the best use of our time, and before our departure had formed numerous acquaintances and were tolerably well posted up in the character of the place and its people. Sidney has a population of about five tiiousand persons, and is one of the most flourishing towns of its size in the British Colonies. It is the great coal depot of Cape Breton, and carries on an extensive commerce with Boston. The principal working coal mine, which is three miles from the port, employs about two hundred men and from thirty to forty horses. The coal is raised through a perpendicular shaft three hundred and sixty feet in depth, and the mine is ventilated by an immense furnace. The daily product is from six to seven hundred tons, which aro transported over a railroad to the head of a self acting inclined plane, from which it is delivered by means of a schute into vessels. All our passengers with a very few exceptions went to the coal mines and some of them brought away several curious fossil remains in remembrance of their visit. The town of South Sidney is situated on the other side of the bay, and is distant from North Sidney five miles by water, and by land about thirteen. Constant communication is kept up by a little steamboat which V A TRIP TO NRWFOUNDLAND. 101 runs three times a day between North and South Sydney. While here, we visited an encampment of Mic-mac Indians who had pitched their tents, or wigwams, on a hill overlooking the harbor. They numbered about one hundred, and lived chiefly by making baskets and Indian ornaments for which there was an extensive demand among our passengers. The whole encampment of men, women and children were kept con- stantly employed during our visit ; and before we left our berths, were full of baskets of all sizes and shapes, canoes, bows and arrows, mocassins, caps and other articles of Indian handicraft. The women performed the greater part of this kind of work, while the men were generally employed as laborers in the town. In their dealings with us we found them scrupu- lously honest and willing and ready to do whatever work we required of them. Some of the women were really beautiful, judged by the Indian type of beauty ; but they had a milder expression than is generally found in the Indian countenance. They were in a perfectly civilized state, although judging from the condition in which they lived, their knowledge of the comforts and luxuries of civilized life was very limited. Yet though in a state of comparative poverty, and sometimes in actual want of the necessaries of life for two or three days at a time, they would not change positions with the wealthiest denizen of the Fifth Avenue. Our visit to their encampment created quite a commotion among them, and we proved such good customers that our departure was regarded with a general feel- ing of regret, " You no go 'way soon," said one to us, the day before our depart- ure. " We make much baskets for you — you no go 'way for long time." Notwithstanding their pressing invitations to stay " long time," and the strong inducements they held out of making " much baskets," it must be confessed we were anxious to get away and see friends and home again I .» 102 A T U I 1' r o N K \V F () L' X l> L A X D We began to feel home sick, and the hist few days of stormy weatlier did not as may well be supposed, lessen the feeiin U N D h A N ft , 103 ])leiHle(l together in the most i)loasin_ff Imnnony, untl opposite characters associated with each other on the most friendly terms. It was hite thar nis'ht before our fancv dress ball broke up and all retired to rest. The next morning we were all on deck at an early hour and looking with earn- est eyes on the low coast of Long Island which was gradually rising before our view like a new creation in the midst of the ocean. In a few hours more we would be home, and never did hours appear longer than those. While off Sandy Hook, a meeting of the passengers \vas held in the after cabin, to express their thanks to the New York, Newfoundland and London Telegraph Comi)any, for the many courtesies they had received at their hands during the excursion. Rev. Dr. Sherwood presided, and Dr. L, A. Sayres officiated as secretary. On motion, a committee of live was appointed to draw up a series of resolutions expressive of the feelings of the meeting. The committee reported the following, which were unan- imously adopted : — Besolved, That our warmest thanks are due to the New York New- foundland and London Telegraph Company, and esi)ecially to their repre- sentatives, Peter Cooper, Esq., and Cyrus W. Field, Esq., for the munifi- cent hospitality to which we are indeltted for the delightful and interest- ing voyage which is now drawing to a close — a voyage which has made us acquainted with places little known, enriched our minds with a store of valuable recollections, and cheered us with the warmth of social inter- course. Besolred, That while we offer our heartfelt sympathy to the Tele- graph Company for the unsuccessful issue of their attempt to lay the sub- marine cable between Newfoundland and Cape Breton, on account of un- favorable weather and unforeseen difficulties, we have entire faith that the untiring energy and perseverance which have characterized their labors hitherto, will ensure their final triumph and enable them to conduct to its speedy fulfilment one of the grandest enterprizes of the present day. 104 A TRIP TO N E W F O U X D I. A \ n , Resolved, That we tender onr thanks to Capt. Tnrner and the officers of the steamer James Adger for their conrtesy arul attention on the voyage. Signed by the committee, Wm. M. Swaim. Lewis A. Sayre. .ToHx Mullaly. Bayard Taylor. J. M. Sherwood. James S. Sluyter. On the adoption of the foregoing, Mr. Cooper and Mr. Field returned their thanks, on behalf of the company ; after which an impressive prayer was made by Rev. Dr. Field. The meeting tiien adjourned. We cannot allow this opportunity to pass without returning our sin- cere thanks to Mr. Cooper, Mr. Field, Captain Turner the purser of the steamer, Mr. Tisdale, .'uid the other officers of the vessel, for their courtesy and kindness towards us on every occasion. The excursion, although it failed in its principal object — the laying, of the submarine cable between Newfoundland and Cape Breton— yet, as a pleasure trip, was most successful. Next year, with the advantage of the experience which the company have gained, they will, it is to be hoped, be enabled to accomplish the great enterprize in which they have em- l)arked. It is one in which not only the United States, but the whole world, are deeply interested — for upon its success depends that of the Transatlantic Telegraph by which the Union of the Old and New Worlds is to be accomplished. That it may succeed, should be the earnest desire of all. \ > I \ . I APPENDIX. June 1851, Mr. Fi. B. Tobbetts oC the City of New York associated witli him several influential g'entlemen for the purpose of org'anizing a company to build steamers of a large size, to run between the ports of New York and Galway, Ireland. These ships were to be specially adapt- ed to perform the mail service between the two continents, and to accom- modate the large emigrant travel from Ireland to the United States. In originating this onterprize, Mr. Tebbett's conceived th(5 idea of the New- foundland telegraph which Is at present so prominently before the ])ublic. Conii- dent of the practicability of th.e project, he entered into a correspondence with different members of the Government of Newfoundland in regard to the subject, rnd with the view of making St. Johns a port of call lor the steamers to and from Galway. He was assured that his plan was perfectly feasible and that the Government would make liberal grants and concessions to secure its accomplish- ment. Soon after, the Government ordered a survey to be made, and on its comple- tion sent the Engineer with his report and a letter of introduction from Mr. S. G. Archibald, dated December 17, 1851, to Mr. Tebbetts. The introduction resulted m the offer of the liberal sum of twenty thousand dollars by Mr. Te])betts to the Engineer on condition, that he would return and procure such a charter from the Government as h.e desired. The offer was accepted, the Engineer returned and succeeded in procuring the required charter which was granted in ^Nlarch 1852, and under which Mr. 'l\>l)bctls organized an association entitled, " The Newf(Muidland Electric Telegraph Company."' When Mr. Tebb(.'tts first conceived the project it was his design to run small steamers across the Gulf of St. Lawrence between Cape Eay and Cape North, the proposed termini of the land lines in Newfoundland and Cape Breton. Thig was the only means of communication, as up to this period every attempt to manu- facture a submarine cable had hoon attended with a siunal failure. Shortlv after, 106 A T* P K N' n T X . however, it wus discovered that by means of <^utta perclia, tlie conductinn: wires eoidd be completely insulated, and in less than a year the first ccible was laid l)etween France and lOnaland a distance, of twenty-six miles. Tliis great achieve- ment was performed in September, 1851. The success of this cable led to the abandonment of the plan of runnin|^ steamers between Cape North and Cape Ray, and to a change in the proposed route of the line. It was decided that the line should run from Xew Brunswick to Prince Edward's Island and thence to Newfoundland. The company a(.'cord- ingly ordered a submarine cable to be made, which was successfully laid down in September 1852, between New Brunswick and Prince Edward's Island — a distance of ten miles. This was the first laid on this side of the Atlantic. After exjiending" about one hundred thousand dollars in the prosecution of the work, numerous embarra; ments arose and the company was eventually ol)li<>'ed to suspend payment. Through the exertions of Afr. Tebbetts, however, the g(Mitle- men now engaged in the enterprize were induced to take hold of it, and they did so with an alacrity which showed their confidence in its ultimate success. Its practicability had been satisfactorily proved and it only required men possessing the means and the energy to carry it to a successful com])letion. The propei'fy (»f the old .'ompany was ])urchased by the new. Previous to the dissolution ol Die " Newfoundland Electric Telegra))h Company,'' the charter was surrendei'cd to the (Jovernment and the gentlemen who had now the control and management of the enterprize proceeded at once with due diligence and energy to the accom- ])lishment of the great work which they had luidertaken. The new association was organized unckn' the title of the " New York, New- foundland and London Telegraph Company.'' and is composed of the following gentlemen : — DIRECTORS. Pkter Cooper, Cvris W. FiEi.n, Moses Taylor, Marshall (). I^orerts, CirANDLER AVniTE, I*resident, • - - - Peter Cooper. V'^iee l^resident, - - - Chandler White, Treasurer, - - - jSIoses 'I^aylor, Electrician. - - - Samuel F. B. Morse. These gentlemen having carefully weighed and considered the diflictilties by which the enterprize was l)eset, applied to the Newfoundland (Jovernment for a new charter in which tliey obtained some additions to the privileges and grants £ -• I. A 1' 1' K N 1) 1 X . lot ('ontl'iTccl ill that procuivd by the dhl coiiipaiiy. They wore givoii the exehisive privilejie lur fifty years, which Avas an increase ol" twenty over tlie I'oriner grant, (jf running a tclegrapli across the Island, and through any of the adjacent waters. In addition to this the government, realizing the great advantage such a work would be in opening up the country and develo))ing its resources, made them a prosent of fifty square miles of land, which was twenty more than thiT gave to tlie company organized by Mr. Tebl)i'tts. Their liberality, however, did not stop here; they also as an encouragement to the enterprize appropriated five thousand pounds sterling, towards the construction of a bridle path across the island, a work indis- l)ensa))le for the repair and regulation of the telegrajih. The land was granted with the privilege of selecting it in any part (jf the country, and the interest on fiftv thousand iiounds sterling guaranteed to the comi)anv i'or twentv vears. In addition to all this fifty miles are to Ijc given when the great Transatlantic Tele- grai)h is laid. The company having now ol)tained all they had asked for, proceediMl ener- getically to work and. its a prelimnuiry ste]) made a contract with Professor Morse, by which they secured the use of his ])atents and all renewals. An engineer and assistants were engaged for the construction of the land telegraph across th(! island from St. Johns to Cape Hay, and about six hundred men having been employed operations were immediately commenced. The route over which it was proposed to run the line is almost a, wilderness and presents, one would suppose, an insuper- able obstacle in the way of the entei-|)rize : but the men who had undertaken it Avere not to be deterred by dilficulties and they went to work with an energy that ensures success. AVhile they had operatives employed in clearing the wiMer- ness and constructing their line, they had others engaged in the si'lection and exploration of the land granted by the (ilovernment. The services of three miner- alogists were seciu'ed and their investigations resulted in the discovery of two coal mines, one lead mine, and one of copper, besides valuable tracts of ship timber and .several (piarries of alabaster and slate. The discovery of these, however, is only one of the many benefits which it is ex])ecte(l the new telegraph will confer upon Newfoundland. The length of the route which will lie traversed by the line of the new company is seven hundred miles, and extends from St. .lohns to Cape Tor- mentine. Commencing at this cape, it runs through the Straits of Xorthumlier- land to Prince Edward's Island, a distance of ten miles and a half; thence to Cape East, thence to Cape Breton, and thence to St. Johns. A one win; cable ten miles long has, already, as v.'c luivc stated, bcvn laid between New Brunswick and Prince Edward's Island. 108 A 1' P K N I» 1 X. The company have entered into an agreement with the companies whose lines run from New York to Xew Brtmswick, throuah Boston and Maine. But as the {Treat objects, to the accomi)lis]mient of which all these operations may be regard- ed as merely preliminary, could not be undertaken without the assistance of some telegraph company in Europe, they deputed one of their number to visit England, for the purpose of securing the co-operation of one of the principal companies there. The same success Avhich attended them in their previous negotiations, fol- lowed them here. A contract was made with the " Transatlantic Telegraph Com- pany," composed of French and English capitalists, by which that company agreed to construct and lay down at their own expense and risk, a submarine cable ex- tending across the Atlantic to Newfoundland. This line is to be not only completed according to tlie terms of the agree- ment by the 22d of January 1B58, but in successful operation. The contract also binds the two companies, that is the Anvrican and European to operate in connec- tion with each other to the exclusion of all other lines for the period of fifty years. In the meantime it is intended to make .St. Johns a port of call for the steamers pass- ing between the two continents, by which means w(> can obtain news at least three days earlier than we receive it at present. Among the many inducements which this route presents to steamers there is one which cannot be overlooked : by sU)\> ping at .St. Johns a very considerable portion oi' the s))ace which is taken up by coal can be devoted to freight, as a sufficient supply of fuel can ])e obtained there in a few hours. This fact alone will have great weight with the mercantile com- munity. lose liiit's ut as the 3 regard- of soinu England, nipauies ion.s, fol- jli Com- Y ag-reed able ex- e agree- act also coiinee- y years, n-s pass- st tlirce ! whicli )y sto}> 1 U]) by 'd ihove !e com-